Saturday, October 15, 2016

There is
the somewhat odd accountant exercise; we call the Tasting Note, where we put
together the fragmented pieces into a final result. I hate it – yet I have done
it thousand of times before and continue to do it. It’s the poor mans version
of an individual emotional experience, which somehow only tells the story of
what we can measure and weigh.

So I end up
in the same blind alley as everyone else. Yet sometimes – like yesterday - I
can’t hold back the experience I had. I want to share. I want to inspire. Don’t we all? I think most of us know
that fragmenting wine is ridiculous. The real mojo of wine lies in the things we can’t
explain.

Before I
take you into my Champagne experience, I should write a small disclaimer.

For some
Champagne growers and I am no way neutral, when I share my opinion. Why should I?
I am not your consumer guide, but merely a kind of diary storyteller on wine. I
like to think of true wine lovers as constant subjective individuals, emotional
effected by all the impressions they have obtained. When it comes wine, we
should throw away reason and embrace chaos.

A glass of
Champagne fromJérôme Prévost is not just a bubbly neutral
thing, which I can compare neutrally with wine A to Z. It’s the work of a dear friend. Jérôme have
showed my so much kindness and made me understand how he thinks.

There is
laugh, joy and inspiration stored in my memories and I constantly wish I could
visit him more often. I want you all to know how gifted Jérôme are and how he
like no other can tame the Pinot Meunier grape.

Just one
thing more. I have often said, that I really don’t pay much attention to
vintages. It’s not that I think it’s both important and educational to know as
much as possible about each vintage. Vintages are fascinating in terms of how
unforeseeable nature is and how dramatic each growing season can be. I am just
saying, that sometimes we, as consumers, miss out on the smaller vintages
because we are constantly trying to cherry pick. Small vintages are not to be
missed, as they often just add to the diverse understanding of wine.

But here
it’s the other way round. The glorified 2008 vintage in Champagne. So can it
(and Jérôme) live up to the expectations or was it just another overhyping coincidence?

Recently I
have become somewhat allergic to Champagne with some age. Allergic is a strong
word. I know. But the more Champagne I drink, the more I see myself drawn to
the youthful side of Champagne. I will hopefully come back to this in other
thread, where I will illustrate my thoughts on; “Young”, “Mature” and
“Old-Champagne”.

2008 Jérôme
Prévost, La Closerie “Les Béguines”

Blend: 100%
Pinot Meunier

Terroir:
Sand & Calcareous elements

Vinification:
Oak 450- to 600-liter barrels

Age of
vines: 45 years old

Location:
Village of Gueux – located west of Reims.

Dosage: 1-2
g/l.

Glass: Zalto
“White Wine”

When I
opened the 2008 "Les Béguines" I immediately detected some classic notes of
mature Champagne. Some autolysis notes came forward, presenting themselves
rather conservative with its notes of dark bread, touch of mild caramel and
hazelnuts. The more Champagne I drink – the more tiresome I find these
secondary notes, as they are rather monotone and overpowering both terroir,
freshness and singularity.

But it took
about 30 seconds before all of my reservations were proved wrong. Like the sun
burned away the morning mist, the last drops of funky aromas were cleared.
Underneath a landscape of beauty unfolded. Never ever have I smelled such
sophistication from Pinot Meunier. We are again at a level, where it makes no
sense to fragment the Champagne and list each note. Once again I am even sure I
can get them right and I paid only attention to the superb balance of this
Champagne. You had all imaginable things in play here. A super rich Champagne,
filled to the brim with the most healthy fruit zest you can image. You feel
these fruit driven notes all the way from nose – to the tip of the tongue- to the finish line, were it delivers
so much sizzling energy, clarity and acidity kick.

They are
all kinds of herbs and spices flying around and lots of them have Asian roots. The
oak is present – but just filling in superb roundness and highlighting how
complex it is. You sense it has some evolvement present, but just with small
pockets of oxidation. No way near a nutty nightmare, but it felt more like the
aromas from when you toss in freshly churned butter in a bowl of pasta.

But here
comes the interesting part. I rested (or should I say, hid1/3 of the Champagne
from my wife) and returned 2 hours later.The Champagne has completely contracted. Where it before felt like a
Champagne just entering a perfect maturity window, it now felt like a one year
old Champagne. The deeper and rounder notes, where replaced by freshly squeezed green
apple juice. The clarity was even higher, still so complex and constantly fired
up with a frightfully high acidity.

Completely
insane Champagne and by far the finest "Les Béguines" I have ever tasted.

Sunday, October 2, 2016

It’s always
an extra treat to taste wine with these guys. Though we have our individual
preferences we seemed to have joined forces in the appreciation of elegant and lighter
wines. We all love to share our designated preferences, but none of us claim to
know the true meaning of wine. I regard these rare tasting occasions as the
perfect window to share -inspire and be inspired.

Fridays
theme was Champagne + a few extras

2012 Benoît
Déhu “La Rue des Noyers”

2010 Cédric
Bouchard “La Bolorée”

2013
Vouette & Sorbeé “Textures”

2010 Cédric
Bouchard “Le Creux d’Enfer”

2010
Jacques Lassaigne “Tirade Rosé”

2008
Agrapart “Venus”

2008
Georges Laval “Les Chênes”

2008 Cédric
Bouchard “La Haute-Lemblé”

2011 Benoît
Lahaye “Le Jardin de la grosse Pierre”

2010
Jacques Lassaigne “”Autour de Minuit”

1999
Jacques Selosse “Vintage”

Bonus

2001 Soldera
Brunello di Montalcino “Case Basse”

2001 Poggio
di Sotto “Il Decnnale

I want to
focus on one Champagne in particular, which took us all into wonderland.

2010 Cédric
Bouchard “Le Creux d’Enfer”

Blend: 100%
Pinot Noir

Terroir: Argilo-Calcaire

Vineyard: 0,032ha- Lieu-dit west-facing parcel planted
in 1994.

Style:
Crushed by foot – maceration “Saignée method”

Viciculture:
Organic

Dosage:
Zero

Production:
approx. 550 bottles

Disgorgement:
April-2014

Glass:
Zalto White Wine

The
Champagnes from Cédric Bouchard have never been about a check-box exercise,
were you end up with a long list of aromatic notes. Fragmenting is in general
irrelevant in my opinion and with Cédric’s Champagnes it’s completely
pointless. They always play on a feeling were you focus much more of the
overall personality of the Champagne. “Le Creux d’Enfer” is no exception. Sure
you have notes of verbena, mild liquorice, roses and some boysenberry. However
I am not really sure I got those notes right and it doesn’t really matter.
Because the Champagne is the most fragile, complex and delicate Rosé I have
ever tasted. “Le Creux d’Enfer” have that sublime perfumes of “red” and a touch of saltiness, which
makes it so appealing. Despite its insane seductive appeal it makes it’s impression
with no noise at all. Its understated character signals so much class and fuels
it’s graceful profile.

The
balance….talk about balance. Never ever have I tasted a rosé with such harmony.
The low pressure of Cédric Champages naturally suppresses the bubbles and it’s
feeding an almost silky and luxurious mouth feel.

Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Few would
argue, that Vouette & Sorbée have always been one of the most significant Producers in
the Côte des Bars. In short Vouette & Sorbée are Bertrand Gautherot. I have
met him a few times before – but I can’t say that I know him that well. I
sensed, from my fist meeting in 2009, that he was a man with deep influence in
heart and mind by the rhythm of nature. He is also an earlier mover towards biodynamic
winegrowing. Nor is he afraid of speaking his mind and highlighting some of the
obvious contrasts in Champagne.

In terms of
the Champagnes from Vouette & Sorbée - their strength have always been a
striking intensity. Vouette & Sorbée are right in your face Champagne. V&S are one of the only producers I
buy nowadays with a clear intend of actually cellaring. Cellaring brings out so
many nuances in these Champagnes and tames the oak.

This
especially goes for "Blanc d’Argile" (100% Chardonnay). A super intense Kimmeridgian
soil Champagne, which I bought already from 2004 vintage. Back then the cellaring
didn’t improve the wine, as the oak overpowered the fruit with age. Now (from
2006) it’s the other way round.

The 100%
Pinot Noir Carbonic maceration Rosé “Saignée de Sorbée” has always been a
beast. A super structured Champagne, with notes iron and Campari. Born for food
pairing and itneeds at least 4-5
years in the cellar for my palate.

The entry-level
Champagne; “Fidele" (100% Pinot Noir) might be more forward, but recent vintages
have showed a more reserved wine when young.

So when you
thought you had everything covered and has laid out the perfect profile on
Vouette & Sorbée, Bertrand turns everything upside-down with “Textures”

2013 Vouette & Sorbée
”Textures”

Blend: 100% Pinot Blanc

Soil: I am guessing Portlandian and Kimmeridgian

Vineyard:
Pinot Blanc planted in 2000

Viciculture:
Bio (Demeter since 1998)

Vinification:
3months in Tonneaux and 6months in Georgian amphora

Dosage:
Zero

Disgorged:
28th of October 2015

Glass:
Zalto White Wine

I first
tasted "Textures" at Bulles Bio in Reims and was blown away. In July, I shared it with friends in the
South of France under very relaxed conditions. The third time was about 3 weeks
ago. Once again I was in the magic zone.

To me this
is greatest Champagne Bertrand have ever produced. Somehow it makes perfect
sense that Bertrand should make this cuvée. Not because amphora is en vouge,
nor because Pinot Blanc is exotic.

No! – Textures
simply takes you directly into the Vouette & Sorbée engine room. It’s the
purest juice I have ever encountered from Bertrand . It’s feels like drinking
directly from the press and it’s as fresh as a Vin Clair. The amphora acts not
only as a clarity guarantee, but also as an enhancer membrane, which spins the
utterly pure juice into a sophisticated texture. The name is actually spot on.
The aromatic notes goes into the direction of dried banana, candied citrus
fruits, pear zest and lime. The taste is utterly divine, super precise and
elegant. WOW!.

Monday, July 25, 2016

I first discovered
Benoît Déhu back in 2014. Déhu was (and still is) part of the “Origines” group,
which are among many of the tastings you can visit, in what we now know as the
Champagne week in April.

Origines
are a group very friendly people, good intend, curiousness and the willingness
to be inspired. However, back in 2014 I witness way too much Chaptalization. Of
course I am rudely generalizing (forgive me), but on that day, the bone dry
2011 (1g/l dosage)“La Rue des Noyers” was easy to fall in love with.

Dehu also
served some still wines at Origines. They were pretty bold in character and
might have had a bit too much wood infusion – yet quit intense for Coteaux
Champenois. I will have to re-taste these wines someday.

Since then
– I have tasted the 2011 “La Rue des Noyers” on several occasions and have
always appreciated it. It’s a Champagne, which combines the sophisticated side
of Pinot Meunier, which has its roots in high pitched energy and spices. It’s
far from the heavy and baroque style of Meunier, which is really not my thing.

“La Rue des
Noyers” has a phenomenal linear energy, which is intensified by a singing
clarity. In 2011 the Champagne is obviously greener and herbal – which is
typical for the vintage. However somehow it works here, though I believe that
the 2011 should be drunk young.

Almost
since I first tasted the 2011 - I have been eager for the 2012 to be released.
It happened earlier this year and a few days ago I tasted it.

2012 Benoît Déhu “La Rue des Noyers”

Blend: 100%
Pinot Meunier

Soil: Black
limestone

Vineyard: 1,7ha
in Fossoy (roughly 57
km west of Reims)

Vines: 40-45 years
old

Viticulture: Bio

Vinification:
Oak 228L (comes from local forrest in Fossoy). No Malo

Dosage:
Zero

Production:
2.000 bottles

Disgorgement: 14 October 2015

Glass:
Zalto White Wine.

The nose is
really tense and packed with dynamite young juice.The 2012 are a sizzling fruit sensation, which feels like
small frozen crystallized particles waiting to defrost and explode. Normally
you would rarely hear me say, that a Champagne is too young. There is always
something to learn and explore from a youthful Champagne and in fact - 9 out of
10 times I prefer a young Champagne.

But this is
really youthful. But goddamn I would still recommend you take a dive here as
it’s, filled with lime zest, flowers, apples and mint. In the background you
have a slight smokey touch from the oak, which is in perfect harmony, as the
fruit overload is so massive.The
taste is awesome, both in terms of purity, energy and a nerve-wrecking acidity.

Hunt it, if
you can find it.

P.s. Dehu
Also makes a cuvée called “Le Pythie”, which I have yet to taste.

Shooting the
images for the 2016 Terres et vins de Champagne, was from technical point of
view, my worst nightmare – and yet – also the most fascinating photography
task, I have ever carried out.

I already knew
from last year, where I also shot a few images, that the beautiful room at
Palais de Tau á Reims was a challenge. It’s a big room with huge windows, but
only at one side of the room. There is only ambient light, which I in general
appreciate – but there is not enough of it. Had I done my research right, I
could have had a few good hints. You see, the influence of the sun gets
stronger and stronger as the day passes. At the end of the tasting you have the
best light, as the sun is at a low positing and directly facing the building.
However you can manage to shoot 450 images with 30minutes to go.

The biggest
problem is the huge exposure to backlight, as almost half of the producers
where facing their back to the windows. Backlit images with silhouettes can be
really beautiful – especially if you can tell the shape of the person and in
this case - knows the shape on the producer in the frame. But it requires that
there is only one person in the frame. Last year this was much easier, as the
producers where standing close to the windows without any people behind them.
However this year, the setting of the tasting tables was different, so the
produces facing their backs to windows had their backs to those producers
facing their faces to the windows. With all the people present it I found it
impossible to get an interesting silhouette shot. What to do? You use a flash.
But I hate flash images and I am not good with it - plus it makes my camera
even bulkier to carry around. You can also overexpose (which I have done on the
image of Franck Pascal), but you invite a lot of ISO noise, which I don’t like.
The other half of the producers was facing the windows, but there was another
problem as they were surrounded by a lot of enthusiastic wine people, who sort
of stole some of the light. What was sort of left to work with was a clear
light shining on the producer’s faces, but fairly quickly faded behind and
underneath them. This created a fantastic opportunity. You see if you just shot
the images with a normal exposure you would burn out the highlights in their
faces – so they ended up looking likes white ghosts. In theory you need to
change the way the camera judges the light – from “evaluating” to “spot” or
“partial”. But I am not so comfortable with these setting, so I chose another
direction. Instead I had to underexpose and really use the maximum capacity of
my lens. By doing this – their faces were balanced. Lowering the aperture has
the advantage to set dynamic focus on the object (mainly the producers) and
away from the crowd. The low aperture: f/1,6 <> f/1,2 plus underexposing
by 2/3 <> 1 stop lowered the shutter speed and ISO noise. The result was
a completely blurred dark background with an incredible soft light. Of course
shooting at so low aperture will cost you a lot of images, which is not sharp.
You will have to settle with 1 out of 5 will be fairly sharp. By having so much
dark dynamic raw material to work with – especially in portraits you will have
to do very little postproduction. Converting most of them to black & white
created even more graphic and contrast.

I also took the
opportunity to shoot some of the producers outside, where there was a clear
bright spring light. I used a small balcony, just outside the tasting room,
which provides great shadow and contrast to work with. I tried not to disturb
the producers needed break or lunch. But I reckon that at times I was like the
annoying paparazzi. Forgive me.