The dregs are often referred to as coming from the bottom of the barrel and for the most part, have a decidedly negative connotation. In this instance, the name is dripping in irony.

Dregs in Redlands is an establishment that began as a wine bar with selections that would by and large be unfamiliar to the great majority of wine drinkers. Unusual bottlings, yes, but they would hardly be construed as even remotely being considered as lowest common denominator selections. Eclectic, yes, but the quality is unquestioned.

After realizing that many customers would want to have something to eat with their wines, they added a relatively small food menu: two appetizers, two “plates to share,” five or so individual plates and a dessert or two. They have three to our tables that each seat four and a bar that can accommodate 12 people. Interestingly, they do take reservations.

You absolutely have to know how to get here, as even Google maps aren’t detailed enough to direct you. It’s in an industrial park on Nevada Street in Redlands,south on Nevada from Redlands Boulevard and go right at the third driveway — the alley way. Look for a black painted wine bottle logo on a door of the building, knock three times if the door is locked and someone will let you in. Do not attempt to find this modern-day speakeasy for the first time in the dark, and park parallel to the building on either side of the alley.

The decor is fairly spartan. Tables are made of reclaimed oak wood pallets and backless stools complete the seating arrangement. Wood pallets are attractively arranged on one wall to hold wine racks and wine bottles for sale. The far wall, made of tin, doubles as a projector screen with old silent black and white movies (think Charlie Chaplin and Buster Keaton) flickering away throughout the evening.

Chef Carlos de la Torre comes up with the ever-changing weekly menu and owner Ryan Dorough is your sommelier/Maitre d’ who will lead you through the eclectic wine list and offer his suggestions on food and wine pairings.

Four of us came in for dinner and we were able to sample the majority of that day’s menu. The “Bro-Schetta” was comprised of sliced baguettes surrounding a dish of diced tomatoes marinated in garlic and olive oil with a touch of rose water imparting a Middle Eastern flavor to the bruschetta.

“Who’s da Mac & Cheese” contained three different cheeses blended with a very generous portion of pungent diced black truffles. I’d suggest the San Polina sangiovese with this dish with its bouquet of black cherry and strains of forest floor and tobacco.

Wines for the rest of the dishes were suggested by Ryan. The tomato tart incorporates local tomatoes, fresh dill and goat cheese topped with a black apricot and garlic glaze, scented with fennel pollen and paired with a Favaro Erbaluce, a white wine from Piemonte whose brisk acidity married well with that of the tomato tart.

“Up Your Game” is a whole game hen roasted with branches of thyme and rosemary, paired with a Segrieres Lirac, a Rhone blend of syrah, grenache and mouvedre redolent with herbs and white pepper.

The boar empanada consisted of ground boar blended with Anaheim chiles and chopped tomatoes wrapped in puff pastry and baked until golden. This was paired with a Cirelli Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo Amphora rose from Montepulciano.

Next up was a baked ahi filet accompanied by bok choy and an inky hibiscus broth that stained the wonton noodles purple. It was paired with a Balivet-Bugey Cerdon from Savoy, France, which is a bubbly gamay that is both sweet and a bit barnyardy.

The last entree was called “Spring Lamb Lollipop” — not exactly Tootsie Pop shaped, but rather two very succulent and tender rack chops served with eggplant and asparagus along with truffle-infused fingerling potatoes. The lamb was paired with an Austrian Pittnauer Burganlander red that was fruity with a spicy finish. I felt that the 2011 Don Rodolfo Tannat from Argentina would have worked better with the lamb, given its brawniness and forward flavors.

We finished up with “SMore de Creme” in which a deconstructed pot de creme (rich French chocolate pudding) meets your familiar campfire s’mores flavored with a mint/basil oil.

Contact David Cohen at dcohen4@verizon.net and follow him on twitter at dcfoodfiles.

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