HENRY'S GENEROUS ENTREE PORTIONS DELIGHT DINERS, BUT SIDE DISHES PALE

It's easy to understand why Henry's China House has been popular for more than 29 years. As one of the first -- if not the first -- Chinese restaurants in Fort Lauderdale, Henry's has retained its grip by offering moderately priced, well-prepared meals.

Both the Budget Diner and guest were impressed with Henry's entrees and the large portions.

Both the Budget Diner and guest ordered the complete dinner that includes a choice of wonton, egg drop or hot-and-sour soup; a choice of eggroll or two chicken wings; steamed or fried rice; and a choice of almond cookie, ice cream or pineapple chunks for an extra $3 each.

Hot-and-sour soup was attractive with fresh sliced scallions but the soup did not feature that delicious mixture of hot-and-sour flavors it should have. The wonton soup was nothing to get excited about. A simple improvement would have been to serve it a bit hotter -- it was warm, not hot.

The egg roll was greasy. It seemed to have been put in oil not hot enough to crisp the egg roll wrapper quickly. The chicken wings were crisply fried and hot, but again, a bit too greasy.

Combination plates include chicken or pork chow mein or sweet and sour pork, $7.25 each; shrimp in lobster sauce or pepper steak, $8.25 each; pork egg foo young, $7.25. Each combination plate is served with an eggroll, fried rice and choice of wonton or egg drop soup and ice cream or almond cookie.

Service was adequate but not overly solicitous. It took several trips before the waitress finally brought the guest a pair of chopsticks. Yet the waitress did make sure water glasses were filled. And the complimentary basket of crisply fried wontons was replaced without asking.

Henry's China House is open until 2 a.m. Total dinner bill for two was $25.