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This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines: - DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues. -Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous. -consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.

Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?

Please stop putting the dreaded "X", "Bees" or "Snake" on the rock faces. Please be smart and conscious of others.

Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.

Description

Mostly shelf scrambling, this route offers very little "real" climbing. Start with a difficult move through a flaring jam and roof, and barely tolerate about 60 feet of easy 4th and 5th class climbing through ledge after ledge. Finally, you will be rewarded with about 25 feet of bolted handcrack. Why this was led by yours truly, or even equipped for that matter, is beyond me.

And alternative finish branches left from the end of the first crack system. It allegedly goes at 11+.

Location

Starts 20 feet right of super moon. Look for a bolt just above a roof and short flaring crack, about 10 feet off the deck.

After a brief crux roof, this route offers some decent and fun climbing. It is a little easy in the middle and has plenty of rest stances, but the upper half has some very fun moves.

The variation out left feels much harder than 11+. As crimps go from good to bad, the feet do as well, and the ultimate move to a flat / sloping bulge feels very insecure. Perhaps you could dyno past it to a perfect jug. Either way, I think this crux is easily in the 5.12 range for average-height climbers.
Sep 8, 2015

V2/V3 boulder move to get off the ground. BRING A STICK CLIP! Fell off of this after forgetting ours in the car, consider it a miracle I didn't blow my ankle. Once you get through the roof at the base though, it eases up for a while with 5.9/10a climbing to a hand crack. Get through these moves and cruise up the corner to the anchors.
Dec 18, 2017