Ditch the Hair Grease; Is an Oil-free Routine Right for You?

A Little Hair Story
Back in the day, before there were tons of products on the market to choose from, black folks used petroleum vaseline as an all purpose product. We greased our scalps, we put it on our faces, we soothed chapped lips, we greased our legs and we put it on our babies bottoms.

Over the years, mineral oil and petroleum-based products were specifically designed for black folks hair for use as pressing oils and pomades. It allowed the hair shaft to be lubricated so that the p.ressing comb could more easily glide through our hair. Plus, they provided a high, glossy shine while sitting on top of the hair shaft. In addition to that, there’s one more benefit for anyone who sported/still sports a press and curl — it hinders reversion.

Essential Oils
Fast forward to today. There are soooo many excellent products on the market to choose from without resorting to the stuff our mother’s used in our hair. Consider products with essential oils, which are plant-based abstracts. They’re more expensive. Takes a lot of plant material to make one ounce of an an essential oil. Cutting to the chase, the difference between an essential oil, mineral oil and petroleum oil (you know, the stuff associated with gasoline) is that essential oils can permeate the hair and diffuse, thus, allow hair to take in moisture. Mineral and petroleum-base products CANNOT do this! They weren’t/aren’t meant to do that anyway. Remember, an added benefit to using this stuff in pressing creams and pomades is that it blocks out moisture and prevents reversion.

Also consider that essential oils can and do provide a whole array of healthful benefits that mineral oil and petroleum oil simply do not/cannot have. I’ve listed a few essential oils and associated health benefits below:

Lanolin is Also a Good Choice
Although not an essential oil, lanolin, which is a manufactured byproduct of sheep’s wool, is also a permeable oil that is sometimes found in hair products. However, its use as an ingredient is not as prevalent as it used to be because it’s more expensive than mineral oil to produce. Since I’m waaay to lazy to make my own products and too cheap to go the essential oil route, I will occasionally purchase a product that has lanolin in it. In minute quantities, my hair really responds well to this type of oil.

Do No Harm To Thine Hair!
Will mineral or petroleum-based products harm your hair? Well, if you consider the fact they don’t allow your hair to take in moisture then well, yes, I would say they definitely promote dry hair and dry scalp. Can this do harm? Absolutely. Dry hair is brittle hair, which breaks easily. And nappy hair is inherently dry and certainly doesn’t need more help in the breakage department, so if you are having extra issues with dry hair (e.g., permanent coloring, just transitioned etc.), using these products can exacerbate the problem. So if your goal is growth and retaining length, then you can see how you could possibly be making yourself work harder than necessary to achieve your hair goals.

You say you’ve found some petroleum or mineral oil products that have essential oils mixed in, isn’t that good enough? Well, my best guess is that the petroleum and mineral oil would tend to negate the benefits of any essential oil mixed in.

Personal ExperienceNow don’t shoot me… Most of the time, I don’t use oils at all…

So here I am, playing up the virtues of essential oils and lanolin, and if I can help it, I don’t even use them in my hair. The reason? I inadevertantly found out that my hair responds well to moisturizers that don’t have oils in them. Plus, I don’t like oily hair…never have. So other than products with just a little bit of lanolin, my products are virutally oil free, and I absolutely love it.

Sure, there will always be people who continue to use these products with seemingly no problems. But again, just remember, if you’re experiencing dry hair, you’re not likely to be a nappy that can use grease and get good results.

Plugging Non Sulfate ProductsIn addition, try switching to a non-sulfate shampoo and a natural product-based conditioner. Sulfates are very harsh cleansing agents found in most shampoos that are very good at degreasing your hair. But if you stop using all that gunk, you won’t need to use anything with sulfates in it. JASON and Aubrey brand all natural shampoos work well for me. I also like Nature’s Essential Hair Care products. They’re available in stores like Wild Oats and Whole Foods. These aren’t the only brands out there, they’re just the two that I happen to use and like. In the absence of grease and oils, I can usually just rinse all the moisturizing product out of my hair, before I even apply the shampoo. And I only do one pass with the shampoo. Once I stopped using sulfate shampoos and organic conditioners, my hair immediately responded. I had no idea my hair could feel like this. It feels like cotton and in comparison to how it felt prior to the switch, it is now very soft, supple and pliable. It’s definitely less dry, and it seems to be less tangled. I am also seeing less hair in my brush and fewer broken coils on the floor.

Try It, You Might Like It
So my advice is to give it a try. You could go the no-oil route like me and see what happens. Or, if you must use oils, I’d rather see you use essential oils or lanolin rather than mineral oil or petroleum-based products. Experiement. See if you can find something that works for you. If you don’t like the results you get, then you can always go back to using your DAX. (I do still have a can of this stuff…lol). But chances are, you may just end up loving your hair and throwing that DAX, Doo Gro and all those other petroleum and mineral oil-based products in the trash.

Oh and one more thing to consider. If petroleum and mineral oil-based products were so great, why are there hundreds on the market, and thousands of black folks running around with broken off, dry hair that retains absolutely no length? This alone should make you wonder how good this stuff is for your hair.

If you’d like to learn more about essential oils, Motowngirl has some information on her site. Click here to read more…

Pictured above: Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein Balancing Conditioner formulated for all hair types and Nature Essential Hair Care non-sulfate shampoo. Soft and Beautiful Botanicals Lite Cream Moisturizer was one of my staples last winter before I discovered that it contained mineral oil. That’s when I started paying closer attention to the ingredients in my products.

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104 Responses to “Ditch the Hair Grease; Is an Oil-free Routine Right for You?”

Hi there! I am really enjoying your site.
Just thought it is important to diffrentiate between grease products and pure oils and butters such as olive, coconut and shea. I have cut out hair p0mades and greasing my scalp. Instead I rub a few drops of oil (usually coconut and aloe vera I mix myself) to the hair ends.

Also 100% pure essential oils should be mixed with carrier oils (this is standard aromatherapy practise) making up 10% of the mixture. This does not negate the properties of the oils, and many so called essential oils are already premixed – 10% essential oil, 90% carrier oil such a sweet almond or jojoba.

I agree with you, I think people should be bolder in trying different hair routines – one man’ s poison is another man’s meat!

Hi Abi! Thanks for visiting Nappturology 101 and dropping some knowledge. Hopefully, if people want more detailed info about Essential Oils they’ll click on the link in the last paragraph of the article. It goes directly to a section on Motown Girl’s site where she goes into a lot more depth about these types of oils, what should be mixed with a carrier oil and what can be use used straight out of the bottle.

Hey…I peaked at your Fotki. You and your hair are absolutely adorable. Good luck on your new PAID dance intership and come back and visit Nappturology 101 soon!

Thousands of beautiful black women are running around with broken off hair because the Asia
hair industry adds hair stredding and eating mites so that you will have to buy there hair. Usually the girl with broken off hair is experience severe break outs similar to the denodex mite. Most of us
can figure it out, we are eating good but the hair is just falling out.

thanks for the info! My hair has been so dry lately! I saw some organic and natural conditioners in a local grocery store and since you are having such great results from them…I think Im going to give them a try because hair that feels like carpet is not ‘what’s up’ with me!

Hi. I’m reading your site getting educated about our hair. I read about the cortex, cuticle and medulla. So, if I understand correctly, our hair is naturally dry. You don’t use any oils? Does our hair need it? Or no. If we don’t use it does that mean our hair will be dry and, if so, does dry equate to breaking off and damage? Just need some understanding. Thank you. Great site, by the way!!!! Thanx for the info.

Hi Nikki,
Not ALL nappy hair types experience dryness on the same levels. So for example, some people’s hair does hold moisture better than others. Those will be the ones who don’t seem to have problems when they use any ‘ole thing on their hair like petroleum and mineral oil-based products.

I on the other hand, and many other like me have EXTREMELY porous hair because of the structure of our nappy hair. In general, the nappier the hair, the more issues it will have with retaining moisture. That’s simply because our tight coily hair makes it impossible for the cuticles to lie flat and seal in moisture. As a result, it takes in water quickly and it dries quickly. It simply can’t retain moisture.

Honestly, I don’t think ANYBODY’s hair NEEDS oil. But it DEFINITELY NEEDS moisture. Without it, one way or the other, your hair will indeed become dry and brittle and very prone to breakage.

Think of it like a dried out twig or a piece of straw or hay. Pick it up and bend it. If it’s totally dry it’ll snap in half with little to no effort.

Same thing with your hair. If it’s totally devoid of adequate moisture, yes ma’am it will snap in two as quickly as a dried out twig.

Do do this elasticity test. Pull a strand of hair out by the roots. Now stretch it. If it stretchs and is hard to break, that means it has good elasticity. That only comes from having healthy, moisturized hair. If it snaps easily, the health and moisture content of your hair is highly questionable and you need to take steps to correct it immediately or you will suffer from breakage.

Moisture, in my book is probably the most important component of having healthy, viable hair.

Thanks, but one more question!!! Where do you get the moisture from if not oil? I’ve heard of people spritzing their hair with water daily. Is that how? I rarely ever put oil in my hair. Not for the reason you named – well, kind of – I just don’t think I need it. When my hair is relaxed I NEVER put it in. I usually wet it and put a little gel in it and go and it’s fine. When I wear it natural I spritz it with water and put something like safflower or castor oil in it so I can get the pick through it. But, if I don’t it can get real dry looking. I’m just at a loss. See, I’ve worn my hair natural for a while off and on. When it’s on I just don’t know how to take care of it. I’ll twist it and later wear a twist out. My goal now is to lock it. I’m really asking for my daughter. She is 20 months and her stuff is dry. But, I realize I’ve been using the wrong shampoo. I was just using baby wash and it was drying my boo’s stuff all the way out. And, yes, I was using plain ole’ grease. Her stuff was dry as a bone. So, I decided to learn about our hair and get it to growing soft and beautiful. Tell me more!!!!!

Hi Nikki,
You really have to put the notion out of your mind that oil and moisture are the same thing…they’re not. Oil is a lubricant. Moisture is water.

Lubicants oils, grease helps reduce friction between moving parts. They also act as barriors. So oil can help seal moisture in if it’s there already or it can help keep moisture out.

Mineral oils and petroleum are the bad guys for most folks with natural hair. They don’t mix well with water at all. So if you have a moisture problem and you’ve got this stuff in you hair, it won’t do any good to spritz it because your blocking the moisture out with the mineral oil or petroleum based products.

Good oils are your essential oils…like jojoba oil or the other ones that are listed in the article above. These let your hair “breath” and take in the water you’re using in your spritzes.

So what’s the purpose of using a “good” oil? It can help act as an emollient to help keep your hair soft and supple. Emollients are good things. Most of my products contain little to no oil but have other things in them that also act as emollients.

As far as you tiny tot’s hair is concerned, just make sure you’re not using really harsh shampoos on her hair. You can also look for shampoos that don’t have sulfates known as Sodium Laurel Sulfate or Laurel Sulfate (SLS or LS) not sure if I spelled Laurel correctly there.

But you could also try stuff on her hair like stay soft fro, or a curl moisturizer or anything that has a water/aqua/glyerine base to it. I use Proline Lite Comb Thru Creme Moisturizer. On you babe’s hair a little would go a long way.

Any product that has those three as a base and just a little oil in it will probably work fine for you both.

One thing to remember is that when you look at product labels, ingredients that are most prevalent in the product are listed first. The further down the list, the less of the ingredient it has.

The proline produt that I use has lanolin in it, which has all the properties of a “good” oil but it’s so far down the list, I don’t mind that its in the product.

So again, try some of these suggestions, and get back to me and let me know how it works out.

Carol’s Daughter makes wonderful products for natural hair. I’ve had excellent results using these products going natural for over 5 years. I recommend the shampoo, hair promade and oils scents for hair. http://www.carolsdaughter.com/

I LIVE IN BATON ROUGE ,LA I USE THE HAIR-REP ON MY GRANDDOUGHTERS HAIR BUT IT IS HARD TO FINE HERE IN BATON ROUGE ONLY ONE HAIR PLACE THAT I GO TO THAT HAVE IT. CAN IT BE ORDER ARE DO YOU HAVE TO HAVE A BUSINESS

Hi Earlene,
Welcome to NPP101
Since I’m not at all an fan or an advocate of using hair grease or anything with petroleum or mineral oil in it, I haven’t a clue about whether you can purchase it online.

I have worn my hair natural for the past six years. To maintain it, I press and curl. Every summer I am at loss as to what to do with my hair since press and curl does not hold. I love the two-strand twist but have been unable to get my hair to hold such a set due to the straight ends. My hair and scalp tends to stay dry (especially in the center back of my head and along my hair line.) No grease or oil that I have tried ends the dryness. Any suggestions on what to do with hair that is approximately 4-inches long and used to press and curl during the summer?

Hi mynaturalhair,
Welcome to NPP101!
Sounds like you not only need to ditch the hair grease, you need to ditch the heat as well. You’re damaging your hair repeated with the press and curl. This is evidenced by your straight ends. You’ve litterally burned your hair straight on the ends. Once you cut those off your hair should be able to hold twists just fine.
Everytime you apply heat like that you weaken the cuticle, and soften the cortex. You’re actually creating a brand new texture of hair on your head.

My advice to you is to stop straddling the fence and just be a nappy. Use moisturizing products such as Stay Sof Fro, Carefree Curl and Wave Nuveau Products. You can also use Proline Lite Creme Moisture and other products like that. Their water and glycerine based and contain other ingredients that can help your hair attract and retain moisture in addition to help your hair feel soft and supple. Another Proline product that I just discovered is their Comb Thru Softener. The only draw back to this for me is the smell…it smells like baby lotion. You might like it but it worked my nerve for a few days. I let my stylist cut my hair last week and she loved the smell so go figure. Me and my sensative nose.

So ditch the heat, use moisturizers, get rid of the hair grease and opt for essential oils instead if you must use oil. I think if you follow these recommendations, you’ll see a definite improvement in the condition of your hair.
Take care,
~Nappyme

hi i’ve visited this site a lot it’s very helpful. i was wondering about a few mostly natural product lines. one (Carols Daughter)of them has beeswax, shea butter natural oils etc. the other is Curls .it doesnt contain any beeswax but coconut milk , aloe and other ingredients i really dont like greasy feel it’s so gross. have you tried any of these? i have a combo of 4c and 3something. Any suggestions?Help!

Hi Leia,
I’m glad you’re finding NPP101 helpful. Well, I’ve never used anything by Carol’s daughter, but you can’t go wrong with products that have essential oils in them, unless you find that your hair just specifically doesn’t like a certain ingredient. Personally, I’m not fond of oils…now that’s just me) and I’d NEVER use beeswax in my hair cause it’s just too heavy, and I’d think it would attract a lot of dirt and be hard to wash out.

Now one thing you have to consider about me with regard to specific product suggestions, mine come from the perspective of having extremely nappy 4B hair. (There is no 4C so do you mean 3C/4A)? The products I suggest work well for my hair texture and most anyone with my hair texture is likely to have good results by using the same thing I use. But if you’ve got a loose texture than mine, I’m not going to be the best person to ask about product reqs.

I also don’t pay that much attention to what works for other hair textures either so I really can’t make specific reqs for that reason as well.

You might try posting checking out the Commercial or Homemade products forum on Nappturality.com. Or go to the Mixed Chicks site. Or try Naturallycurly.com, and check out their hair forum and look around at the products that advertised on that site to see if you can get any good ideas.

I JUST WANTED TO SAY THANK YOU FOR THIS WEBSITE, I WAS JUST GOOGLING ONE MORNING TRYIN TO FIND THE RIGHT OIL FOR MY HAIR B/C I GOIN NATURAL ONCE AND FOR ALL 🙂 (I HAVE DECIDED TO STOP BEING A SLAVE TO WEAVES, PERMS AND PRESSING) AND I CAME ACROSS YOUR WEBSITE WHILE GOOGLING AND I HAVE LEARNED ALOT ABOUT HOW TO CARE FOR MY NATURAL HAIR…..SO THANKS AGAIN FOR THIS WEBSITE

hello,
this may be a crazy question but i am trying to be COMPLETELY NATURAL so i want to make sure i am using all the right products on my hair so here’s my question…Is petrolatum the same as petroleum? thank you and again i love this website……

Hi, I have had natural hair all my life (this might seem like a life story, but i promise you it will be quick!)… anyway… i’ve had natural hair all my life but i relaxed it ONCE at aged 16 and since then my hair has been breaking, and obviously i have never relaxed it again since, and i never will. I love love looooveee my natural hair. Although it has never grown past my shoulders, i used to love having my hair cainrowed and up in a ponytail puff… bbut anyway, what i’m trying to say is I’m trying to nurse my hair back to health. I have always watched my hair once a week but I am now wondering whether that is too often? I currently use Aphogee pro-vitamin leave in conditioner, infusium 23 spray and s-curl moisturizer as well as hair, skin and nails formular vitamins. The problem is that my hair is extremely thin especially at the hairline and I have always wanted thick hair, always! Do you think there is anything that can be done in order for me to help my hair to become thicker? Or is it just the usual case of accepting what God gave me….
Thanks

If you hair was naturally thin prior to your relaxer then it will always be that way. Now if you were doing things that caused thinning and breakage at the hair line, you need to stop doing these things so that your hair can grow back stronger, thicker and healthier. Only you know how you were taking care of your hair prior to the relaxer and whether or not you had naturally thin hair as well. We’re all genetically predisposed to a certain number of hair follicles so, yes if you’re didn’t have thick hair before the relaxer, you won’t have thick hair once you get your hair back to where it was prior to the chemical services.

Hello, You have a lot of good information on your web site. Can you tell me of a good Hair moisturizing products without the minerial oils and petrolatum oils ingredients. It is so hard to find something for my hair, its very dry! I believe that I have tried everything in those Asian Shop. What I used now is “Olive Oil” It is an Essential Oils. YES!!! the kind that you cook with. The problem is that it does not give my hair that elasticity and moisture for natural curls. But its all that I have at the moment. Nothing else will work that does not break it, leave it dry, have a smell to it, chemical ingredients, etc. Help me please I really could use it. I would like to keep using only Natural Products. Thank You, Karen

Hi Karen!
I can tell you that water and glycerine can really keep your hair moisturized really well. In the winter, you can add your own favorite essential oil to the mix to make it more substantial. When I go that route, my hair responds well to jojoba oil. The reason I like jojoba oil is because it’s the one essential oil that is very similar to, sebum, that is more of a waxy substance that our scalps naturally produce and whose job it is to keep our hair soft and supple.

Nappy hair can’t really make use of the sebum though because our coily, kinky structure keeps it trapped close to our scalps. So for me, jojoba oil it is.

But you can add whatever essential oil or oils you like to the mix. Go to MotownGirl.com for more information on essential oils and how to use them. If I’m not mistaken, you may even find natural hair dress recipees as well.

Hello. My son has a very dry and flaky scalp. I have been scouring your site, as well as others and haven’t yet found the answer to treat his very, very dry and flaky scalp. I purchased Tea Tree oil but I’m now finding out that is for oily hair/skin…

Assuming that he doesn’t have a medical condition that needs to be checked out, you might want to consider three things.

First, use as mild shampoo as you can find and one that is specifically formulated for dry scalp and dry hair. Stay away from dandruff shampoos (unless specifically prescribed by a doctor or dermatologist) cause they will be extremely drying on his hair and scalp. So instead, opt for shampoos and conditioners with all natural ingredients and DO NOT contain harsh surfactants, which are cleansing agents. Ones to watch out for are Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Laureth Sulfate. Honestly, these ingredients are so harsh that they’re just not needed to cleanse our hair unless you’re using extremely heavy oils and greases and/or his hair is getting horrible dirty between shampoos.

Some product recommendations such as Jason and Aubrey Organic shampoos and conditioners come to mind. Go to their websites and you should be able to find something to use.

Second, as the article says, ditch the hair grease. Get away from the products that are containing petroleum and mineral oils. Try some water and glycerine products such as Sta Sof Fro or Care Free Curl or Wave Nuveau moisturizers. Proline Lite Cream Moisturizer is another good one. You can also use the clear gel curl activator products as moisturizers as well. These are all water soluable and will rinse right out of his hair. In fact you could go to a water/rinse only routine like I have. These products rinse right out of your hair without having to shampoo and my hair looks and feels great. I also don’t get any buildup on my scalp which means I don’t have to use any shampoos to get my scalp clean. So I just rinse and remoisturize. Radical thought I know. But you have nothing to lose so give it a try.

Third, try using jojoba oil. It’s the one essential oil that is close in composition to the sebum that our scalp naturally secretes. If his sebaceous glands are under producing, using jojoba oil on his scalp may just be what you’re looking for.

Oh…one more thing. With the onset of winter, his dry scalp is only going to worsen with the change of the weather, so make sure your little one keeps his head covered with a cap of some sort as well.

Hope some of this helps. Take care and good luck!

try jojoba oil. A little will go a long way. It’s the one essential oil that is similiar in composition to our own natural sebum and this may help keep his scalp

Please help! My daughters’ have been in braids for years, and when they transitioned to a press and curl their hair was beautiful and long for a while. Now it is breaking off like crazy, and I don’t know how to stop it. I am so stressed, and I don’t want their self esteem to suffer. Please let me know what to do to salvage what’s left.

How do I find out how to classify the texture of my hair? I noticed that one woman wrote that she had B w/2 ee’s . What do the letters and numbers mean? I’ve tried looking it up, but haven’t had any luck. Thanks

Hi, Nappyme! I love reading your articles! They are very imformative and definitely helped seal the deal on being natural. And your advice is so straightforward. I like how you said “Ditch the heat”.

I’ve been natural for about 3 years; I just turned 21 last month. I went natural because
1)someone overprocessed my hair and it shed a lot
2)i went to cosmetology school and learned about chemicals
3)NATURAL IS BEAUTIFUL 🙂

It’s great to know that someone else believes in not doing *anything* damaging to their hair. (I may be a bit of a militant natural). My hair is 4a and it hates shampoo and 100% natural soap, so I just co-wash often. (My hair is in love with Optiumum). I always leave some conditioner in my hair. My hair responds well to olive oil, but now I want to incorporate raw shea butter into my routine. My question to you is: Have you ever used raw shea butter, and what do you think about using it on the hair?

Hi Ntrlbttrfly and welcome to NPP101!
Yes, I have tried raw shea butter and let me just say that I liked it better on my dry feet than on my hair. It’s just tooooooo heavy. So naw, sorry hon, I am NOT a fan of shea butter for my hair.

But some folks do and I guess they like it. That’s why I was willing to try it. However, it just sat on top of my hair and gave me that hideous greasy feeling that I just loathe.

Hi…its me again. If you just try http://www.buttersnbars.com organic unrefined shea butter/all natural coconut oil hair pomade ONCE, you will change your mind about it being too heavy on your head. It is whipped and lite and so smoothe. check it out. youre gonna love it.

Hi nappy, I have the answer for STEPHANIE, my daughter had the same problem. Please use “APHOGEE TWO STEP PROTEIN TREATMENT”. It will stop the breakage instantly! Follow the directions on the label (very important)! If you think you need to use it the next time you wash your hair, do so. Use it only for 3 seperate washings, then stop for a while. It works wonders! Also take a multivitamin and a hair vitatim that contains Biotin and MSM. Good luck!

hi nappy,
if petroleum blocks out moisture, wouldn’t it be good to apply it just after wetting the hair (after shampoo for example). It should keep the moisture inside even though it does not let any get in. Am i wrong? tx for giving me your opinion

Ses… you can certainly try. It never did a thing for me though so I cannot speak from experience. But bottom line I really don’t advocate it’s use on hair when there are soooo many other wonderful products and ingredients that can do a good job of moisturizing your hair. So you may want to try something else instead.

Great site NappyMe.
After 12 years of weaves and hair color, just before the summer I cut everything off to about 1/4 of an inch. I’m using my eyeshadow and big earrings and great lipstick colors and loving it.
Anyway, a couple years ago, I read another website that espoused water and water only as a mosturizer. Over the summer I saw a young lady on Oprah who came up with a formula for re-growing her hair after it had fallen out from so many chemicals. I have found that both water and EdenBodyWorks hair products have worked wonders on my hair. I have had it cut twice and plan to have it cut again next week. What I’ve found with using both the Jojoba-All Natural Temple Balm, Jojoba Hair oil, and water is that my hair grows something fierce. I, too, after a bout of allergy to sulfates have stopped using them. I currently use Nubian Heritage Coconut & Papaya shampoo (No sulfates), but no conditioner, other than water. I am all natural now and loving it. Sure my husband loves long hair, but it’s my time and I am loving it. Fortunately, he loves me and not necessarily, just whatever shape my hair is in. Now it is HEALTHy and I am HAPpy NAPpy, too.

I have used shea butter in my hair, but I agree it is somewhat heavy. And it, along with beeswax is in the Eden BodyWorks Temple Balm, but I used very little and at night only. I have some myrrh, which I use primarily on my lips and body to good results and I might today (& probably only once a week) it in my hair, too.

Hehe I remember reading this when you first posted it, and I wasn’t even natural then. How times flies by…………..

I did my BC in October of last year, and it’s been difficult finding products that work. One thing that I am extremely frustrated with is the fact that my hair HATES oils……….well, what I like to call ‘loose’ oils. I can take oils in pomade form (think Oyin Handmade Burnt Sugar Pomade and Carol’s Daughter Mimosa Hair Honey).

I actually just read your post on moisture and I found it extremely helpful. I have to thank you for both of them-this post and the one on moisture.

Lately I have been using shea butter in conjunction with Oyin Handmade Burnt Sugar Pomade to moisturize my hair and it works great. I used to have a huge sterilite drawer filled with products. Now I only have three (shea butter, OHBSP, and OH Juices and Berries-all good stuff just gotta find something to wash my hair with and deep condition). I had to throw all of that crap in the trash.

Why is it that black women refuse to acknowledge they have 4c hair. It does exist and I have it, so I do not know what it is to ashamed about. The second thing that worries me is what is up with “curl definition”. Everyone with 4 type hair is falling over themselves to get curls or at least to look curly, some even leaving their hair wet all night to achieve some type of curl. Is this not another way of fooling ourselves?

THANK YOU!! Until Andrea Walker, one minuscule human being in a sea of 7 billion say there is 4c, there isn’t! What rubbish!! I guess all those with 4c hair need to start wishing themselves out of existence! Errhhh not happening! I am sticking around!

We (family) might be returning to Germany this year I loved living there for over 5 years. The drawback was my hair went through a god awful stage (shock) it was always shedding it seems I/we couldn’t really get it under control and it wasn’t growing. However, I/we been back in the U.S. since the end of Dec 08 and my hair is growing now (strange)….I know one of the problems is the harsh/hard water in Germany. So if we return do you have any recommendations on how to care for my hair with the harsh/hard water to answer your question I have a relaxer 🙂 And to answer your other question I went to 3 different hairstylists but that’s another story 😦 I believe in deep conditioners and reconstructors if needed ..please provide any suggestions that you might have I am all ears….

Hi Rose,
You’ll want to pose your question about caring for a relaxer to someone else. I haven’t a clue. If I did, I’d not have suffered through ongoing bouts of severe breakage before I finally stopped relaxing. There are plenty of hair care forums where you could get some good advice. Try Black Hair Media, or Long Hair Care Forum where they discuss relaxed hair.

I’ve been all natural since March 2009. I had turned into a product junikie until I learned to avoid sulfate products. When I went into my closet to read the ingredients in my hair products, I saw that ALL of the products contained sulfate. A friend suggested that I try Cantu Shea Butter, but I noticed the product contains Stearyl Alcohol and Cetyl Alcohol. Could these ingredients be harmful to the hair? When I think of alcohol, I imagine drying out my hair, is this the case? Also I have been hearing a lot about Carol’s Daughters products, would you recommend this brand as well?

Hi, Nappy me. I think im going to try your ‘no oil’ approach & see what it does for my hair too:) My only worry is that my ends tend to dry out. I have been using Scurl as a daily moisturizer & I also use a home made spritz with glycerin & rosewater. Both keep the my hair moisturized but my ends are still dry. I have been putting coconut oil on them to seal, but they never feel moisturized. Is there a product that you recommend for this that doesnt have oils? I am natural now, but I had a perm five years ago. It broke my hair off so I never tried it again. Before that i had a few perms as a child. I am now in my twenties & am just learning to properly care for my hair & still havent found the right products for my hair type, which i belive is a 4a/4b. Not really sure. Anyhow i am open for any suggestions about my ends. Thank you so much.

Hi Lala,
Sounds like you have very porous hair like me. Try using a heavier moisturizer on your hair like Proline lite creme moisturizer. Right after you wash your hair, be very, very, very generous in your application. It might seem like you’re being heavy handed but trust me, your hair will suck it right up. When it “dries” it should feel soft and supple. When it’s humid, it will feel ever so slightly wet to the touch. Your hair should be like this for up to seven days if you’re in a protective style. Remoisturize as necessary paying particular attention to your ends.

Hi again nappyme. Thanks for the tips on the prolite comb though. I have ordered some but its yet to arrive. Since i discovered your blog i experimented to make sure my hair really didnt like oils. I used Nourish & Shine by Jane Carter, jojoba oil, Carols daughter hair milk & a few other raw oils. I always left one side of my hair oil free & when my hair was completely dry, i would compare. The side that I used oil on felt even more dry with a layer of oil, no matter how sparingly i used the oils. Is there anyway you can somehow when its convenient for you put together a list of product options for those of us that do not want oils in our hair? Because when I type in anything that has to do with ‘oil free’ and black hair types your blog comes up. There is just not much out there. I also am havingtrouble because i want oil free, silicone free & protein free. Do you think im asking for too much in 2 hair product? Is oils in 2 conditioner ok? I tried to find one w/o oils because i like to leave some in my hair

A million thanks to you, Nappy Me, for your advice!!!! I have very porous hair that waves bye-bye to moisture at every opportunity. Oil “sealers” are ineffective–except for shea butter, which is too gummy and dulling. You suggested a curl activator with glycerin, and I tried it a few days ago. It works like a miracle. When dry my hair now feels soft and smooth.

A million thanks, Nappy Me. Thank you so much for sharing with all of us nappies!

Hi NappyMe. I just did the BC 3 days ago and now I’m rocking a TWA. I’m having issues accepting the way I look but that’s a separate problem. My main problem is that my hair is EXTREMELY dry and feels bristly. I think this is NOT normal but I’m not sure. I was thinking about trying a no-shampoo, no oil regimen because historically my hair does not absorb oils. Do you have any other product recommendations. I see that you recommended ProLine Comb Thru so I’m planning to look for that. Thanks for any advice.

i made the b/c two months ago. and i am loving it .thank you for the information that you have provide. you have answered alot of questions that i had in mind as well as others who have gone natural. thank you again for all feedback

Hi and peace to my sistas, I just want to thank the developers of this website. I found it while searching Google for information on how to take care of 4a type natural hair. You 101course is on point. Thank you for thinking of and educating us.
Since I have committed to twisting my hair to promote growth and maintain a feminine style I have found a company called http://www.buttersnbars.com to have all that I need to care for my fragile hair and keep it from shrinking so much. I use their hair pomade called AllNatural Coconut Hair pomade that has unrefined shea butter, organic extra virgin coconut oil, golden jojoba, organic flax and hemp seed oil. I dont believe the condition of my hair now !!! She also sells an organic shea butter shampoo that I have yet to try because I am still using Dr.Miracles 2n1 shampoo. People keep telling me that it is no good, but I love the tingle. I also use Dr.Miracles extensive deep conditioner. Do you know whether these products ( Dr. Miracle) are harmful to my hair type? Thank you again for this wealth of information.

I’ve been natural for five years and loving it. I refuse to lock my hair because I love the freedom of choice. I am interested in ideas for my natural hair. No it doesn’t hang low and it’s curl pattern is very tight. Thank you for sending some ideas. I wear twist for two weeks, and then untwist them for two weeks. I wear it in a fro with and without scarfs or a front band. I have recently wore braids to the scalp with twist. Needing new ideas please. Thank you
This web. site is marvelous thank you!

Congrats on being natural…and for so long too! I hear ya, on not locking and loving your loose hair. So many women get frustrated and lock because they need something a little easier to manage, so I commend those who’ve figured out how to handle their loose hair with ease.

As far as styling goes, all you have to do is page through my blog to get some ideas. There are pictures of different styles on practically every page. You could also go to my fotki, and check them out where they’re grouped and categorized. It’s http://public.fotki.com/Nappyme/

Hey there!! 🙂 My hair does not do well with oils at all. I would love to use Jason or Aubrey shampoos and conditioners but there are soo many choices. I am nappy to the bone so do I go for the conditioning, strethening or curl defining shampoos and conditioners? I have been natural for about seven years now and still haven’t figured it out. ugh!! But I refuse to go back to relaxers, I just cannot give up swimming and dancing in the rain without worry 🙂

Hi Jiggy!
If you don’t have any other needs that really stand out, go for products that add moisture. Also look for products that can do double duty and those are usually the ones that also contain protein.

So i’ve been using some petrolatum based pomades to do classic pompadour hair styles. I didn’t really care for the petrolatum pomades so I got some water based pomades that cut out the petrolatum but they dont work as well, so i’ve been using a mix of the water based and petrolatum pomades. Am I doing damage to my hair? I’m only 19 and I don’t wanna be going bald or anything, but I do have thick hair. Any advice?

Hi Wanda,
Sorry, I truely don’t have a clue. My hair doesn’t hold a press so I’m not the best person to ask about that. In fact, I tried to flat iron my hair tonight and my hair laughed at me. I ended up giving up, wetting my hair and putting it back in box braids. Just tells you how much my hair just doesn’t want to be straight.

Hi! Need a little help- My hair goes to the middle of my back and last year ( after 4 years of relaxers) I decided to go natural. My scalp has always been dry and I always just grease it. Sometimes I can place a small tooth comb on my scalp and lightly pull up huge dandruff flakes. Should I stop doing that? And what type of shampoo and oil should I use in my transition, and to reduce the flakes and itching? Normally I just wear 2strand twist bt I have to take those out instantly because they itch. Please help! Thanks a lot

Hi 2fly,
Welcome to NPP101 and congrats on your decision to go natural!

About 15 years ago, I suddenly started getting horrible dandruff. I mentioned it to my doctor who diagnosed it as seborrehic dermatitis. He proscribed a routine for me to follow with a shampoo specifically designed to clear this up using Nizoral medicated shampoo. I followed his advice to the letter and it cleared right up. Recently I began experiencing this problem again. So I purchased some Nizoral and followed the routine and once again, it went away. You could try it to see if it helps. Here’s my post on this topic which describes what to do. Then if it doesn’t clear it up, my advice would be to see your doctor and get a professional diagnois and let them advise you from there.

Hi Nappyme! I have had this problem before and the shampoo that the dr gave to me did not work. My suggestion is to use Hollywood Tea Tree Oil. You can get it from Dollar General stores and is very effective!! I put drops of it on my scalp and cleared up in a couple of days. You can also use it with your carrier oils also and use it from time to time so your problem will not come back. jean…

Thank you for the quick response and that info! I bought the Nizoral yesterday, so Ill start using that today. One more quick question – is it still okay for me to blow dry my hair?? (Since its not completely natural yet? Actually only about 2 inches of it is-the rest that down my back is relaxed). Thanks again!

I’m not sure what your texture is. But if it’s snappy nappy like mine then you have two extreme textures on your head at this point. Natural, nappy hair is inherently weak. Then you put a relaxer on it and you make it weaker. Where your new growth and your relaxed ends meet is the point of demarcation and it is the weakest link between the two textures. Undue stress mechanical and heat induced stress will snap your hair right off.

When you intend to have a long transition, it’s best to find styles that cater to your new growth, while making your permed ends somehow blend in with your nappy hair.

Try joining Nappturality.com and check out their transitioner’s forum to find styles that will work for you.

I live in Independence Missouri.And there are very few places to buy black products,for black hair.I am aretired beautician.Iwas a beatician for 39 years.We are tiredof perms,and all of these alcohol based products,which are killing our hair. Is there anyway I can start selling it here.Iwould like to start a business somehow.I believe I could do very well in bringing them back to our people.Let me know as soon as possible.

I am so glad to find this thread. I am constantly seeing videos or reading forums about how great Shea butter and pure coconut oil is for the hair. I have tried these products – the 100% pure ones from the health food store – with no success. It makes my hair feel greasy, but rough and britle. My hair works best with lots of water and glycerin based products. I even have a spray bottle with pure vegetable glycerin, water and a couple of drops of essence of tangerine oil to spritz my hair from time to time.

Hi Ms. JaCee. I care for my hair no differently with color than I did without. Given that you’re posting on my site asking for advise, I’m going to assume that you have nappy hair and will answer your question from that perspective.

If that’s the case then, unless you’ve gone more than three shade lighter than your natural hair color, you really shouldn’t have much of a change in how you moisturizer your hair. If you’ve gone drastically lighter, then your hair’s moisture issues will be much greater than before. If you haven’t already done so, switch to a non sulfate shampoo. Many of the popular brands are now tauting no sulfates so read the label.

With regard to how often you should shampoo. There’s no one set schedule. If you work out, then you’ll probably need to shampoo more often than someone who doesn’t. If you have an itchy scalp or are proned to dandruff, you may want to shampoo more often. Listen to your hair and scalp and act shampoo accordingly and you should be ok.

I am so glad I found your website. So glad! I having second thoughts in using the product cal Vigrol and decided to reach it on the internet. Well, that is how I found you site and the information you provided for that type of product and other things. I was going to touch up my daughters hair with the stuff. I read your article and then through it away. I do know the secrret, that is what I call it “SECRET” to healthy growing hair and it is moisture. Should I spell it out? I am 55 years old and believe it or not, I discover the secret was moisture when I kept asking myself; why did the Jeri Curl make our hair grow. The answer then came to me and I started treating my nappies like a Jeri Curl and got results. My issue is finding products that promote moisture. Do you follow me. Yes I know you do. I know of a few products and I dont know if I can list there names, but here it goes. Shampoo; Aussie [all of their products, Motion products, Garnier fructis products, Perfect Results -Boomerang Maximum moisture, Mizani Botanifying products [find the one best for you]. These are some of the products I switch to. but I am a oil lover but since reading your article I need to find more products and then help pass the word.

Can you help me in locating moistue products and to help me STOP using Oils. Moisture does work for my hair tremendously. I haven’t had a relaxer in five years.

Awe…good for you! I’m sooooo glad you decided not to put that vigorol mess in your babies hair. When they get old enough to make those kinds of decisions (and can afford to do it on their own) then so be it. But don’t let it be by your hand. Let them grow up nappy and learn to take care of and appreciate the hair that grow out of their heads. Then that way they won’t be “afraid” of their own hair when and if they perm and then later decide to go back to wearing their natural hair.

About moisture promoting products. Looks for stuff that are water-based and have glycerine in them. My product of choice is proline lite creme moisturizer. It’s cheap and has worked well for me for the last four years.

I have natural 4c hair and would like to know what products I can use to soften my hair. When I touch my hair it feels crispy but when I look at my hands there is oil on my hands i.e. whatever product I have applied to oil my hair which is usually just olive oil is visible on my hands but yet it still feels crispy. What can I use to make my hair feel softer. I have been told that coconut oil is good
I await your reply
Thank- you

I am currently living in the south of Spain and in need of a moisturizer for my scalp and strands. There are a few African hair supply stores in the area but all of them sell moisturizers with mineral oil/petroleum. I currently have a olive oil moisturizer but I’m running low, I was just thinking about using extra virgin olive oil. Bad idea?

Hi melissa,
I’m not a personal fan of oils. I’ve used olive oil before but felt it left my hair too grease like it was just sitting on top of my strands and not being absorped. However, many naturals swear by products that use olive oil. Give it a try you just might like it.

Hi dis is my first time beinn on dis website so i have never used any of da products. ive been growinn my hair natural fa bout a year now. my hair is very dry, short, n breakinn. i have hair n my comb n also n da sink. somtimes i feel i should cut my hair n start ova. i do use mane n tail is it a great product? What can i do 2 make it feel very soft, stop breakinn, n long? i am very thankful 2 find dis site!

just discovered your site. after years of wearing braids,not tight, always did myself, front of hair started to thin and then have chunks of balds spots in front. realized that though i have not had perm for yrs have continued to treat hair with those types of products. started using old fashion stay sof fo curl activator spary and hair is growing very well. just from reading your blog i realize that it must be the curt activator in stay soft fro. now while i am waiting for hair to grow back wear silk band around front of hair and just tough it out with nothing on while i am at home. also realized from internet research that i was over proteining my hair when it really needed good moisturizer not grease. your hair is so healthy and beautiful.as soon as the front of my hair is presentable i am going to take braids out completey.

I’m 20 in been wearing my hair in sewins only because I didn’t want to put up with my hair. The pros about my sewins was that it made my hair longer. Cons is When I take it down my hair is very tingled making it hard to work with. I’m going to wash and press it and leave the weave and sewins alone. When my grandma (a southern women) press my hair she uses that magic grease, that blue stuff. I don’t like it because it makes my hair feel heavy meaning my hair won’t move freely. Is it because she uses too much? Is it something else I can give her to use? Would the oil burn and burn my hair because of the heat from the hot comb? I would like movement, not stiffness. Thanks

Hi Alesia,
My blog is all about embrasing your natural texture. Hardly anyone who transitions to natural hair knows how do care for and style it right off the bat. It takes time, trial and error and research. I’m going to suggest that you take the time to do so and let go of the chains that are keeping you in bondage about your hair.

My site is a good start. There are many other resources. Google natural hair and you’ll find a plethora of information out there that can start you on the path of embracing the natural you.

Lovin’ this site! I’ve just begun the HCG Weight Loss Program and one of the restrictions happens to be products of any type with oil in them. For my body, I tried aloe vera gel and was too embarrassed to go outside for the ash. Baby oil it is on that note but for my natural hair, I’d like to take my shampoo/conditioner to the salon but I’m stuck on what to choose. Can you help?
I also have issues with dandruff although it’s only when I go to the salon. I’ve been protesting about the products they use as I’ve found other clients have the same issue when they get their hair done so this may be a new step in the right direction for my salon experience all together.
I have to do the salon because I can never silk my hair as straight as they do and what they do in an hour and a half, takes me an entire day and it STILL doesn’t get nearly as straight. I dare not try to rock my curly look for fear of the super dry look. Help a sistah out while she loses the weight but still tries to hold on to her mind! Thanks!

I don’t advocate straight hair, that’s just not the purpose of my site. But I can tell you that when I first started growing my hair out from a relaxer, and I was working out all the time, I wore micro braids. this may be a solution for you.

As far as an oil to use, read the article again, it may give you some ideas.

TO WHOM THIS MAY CONCERN: MY NAME IS PEEDY ALEXANDER. YEARS AGO MY MOM USED HAIR REP AND GLOVERS ON OUR HAIR AND IT GROWED! I NOW LIVE IN INGLEWOOD, CA 90301 AND I BEEN TRYING TO FIND A BEAUTY SUPPLY STORE THAT SELLS HAIR REP. IS THERE ANY KIND OF AWAY I CAN GET THIS PRODUCT? OR DO IT STILL EXIST? THANK YOU! SINCERELY, PEEDY,

Hi Peedy…
Hair Rep and Glover’s Mange have no magical growing properties. Hair grows…period. It’s how you treat it that helps retain length so that you have longer hair.

That said, yeah those two products do still exist. I see them from time to time when I’m out and about. You could either google them and buy them online or just keep your eye open for them when you’re out and about. Since I wouldn’t use either one of these products on my hair at this point I can’t really say where I saw them. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.

I found your site by accident and I’m so glad I did. My hair is so incredibly dry it doesn’t feel like real hair. I thought it was because of the 24 prescriptions I’m taking. I almost can’t get a comb through my hair. I would love to stop wearing wigs and could wear my own nappy hair in some sort of style. Nothing I have tried has provided any moisture. I hope to find something one day that will add some moisture and I can at least comb it.

Thanks for this very helpful site.A thought on avoiding sulfates and finding sulfate-free hair and other products … Look for them in the ingredient lists of lotions, soaps and body washes and other products, too. They seem to be hiding everywhere. Many companies are starting to advertise their sulfate-free lines now.

Hello,
I had a quick questions I was hoping someone could answer for me. My daughter is nearly six months old. I am white, and her father is black. She’s defintly got the curly hair and lots of frizz. My boyfriend keeps telling me that I have to put something on her scalp (even though I don’t think she has as bad of a dry scalp as he thinks she does). I would really like to do something natural for her (not ‘Pink Lotion’ like everyone in the super market recommends). Please help! Thank you!

I am a 56 year old women and my hair is thinning at the top. I have soft hair that won’t hold a curl, and gets wavy at the roots as the perm wears out. I used a kiddy perm back in April but nothing since. I am aware that sulfate is not good for your hair and I have tried to stay away from them. I have tried several products and nothing seems to help. I want to eventually go natural but I’m not sure what style I could like. I don’t like dreads and don’t want an afro. Press and curl may be my best look, but of course heat is not friendly either for african american haIr. HELP

Hi Hair Desperate,
I’m sad to know that you’re having such challenges with your hair. Many women, such as my mom, have thinning hair on top and a lot of braided and/twists styles are not that attractive on her.

Honestly, I think your best bet would be a gorgeous shaped/lined up afro. Your natural texture, left free will provide the volume that you need to camoflauge your thinning hair. Beyond that, I encourage you take join Nappturality.com (access to the hair advice board is free) and check out these and other threads:

I’m sorry, I really don’t. Did you join Nappturality.com? It’s a huge forum with thousands of women who wear their hair naturally. With so many members you are bound to find folks in the same boat as you whom you can ask questions and get advice on how to deal with the problem you have.

I suggest you go over there, join the community and ask the questions you’ve asked me. Good luck!

Ive just taken my weave out and found that things such as keracare essential oils does wonders for your hair. Makes it soft and bouncy and absorbs well without leavin that grease patch you get wen u lie down or watever. Im cant beleive they make grease for RELAXED HAIR!! All it does is make it thin and obviously stunt the growth. But ive never been so proud to have natural hair and knowin the Right things it needs. The only downside is washing it. Its hell on my head 😦