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Tuesday, September 1, 2009

The Plot Thickens

I've decided to throw a little twist into my Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing project. (It's just like Project Runway!) From now on, all the garments will be made on a Singer Featherweight from 1952, the very same year VoNBBS was published. Oooh, the drama!I've been intrigued by vintage Featherweights for quite a while since some people say they're the best machines ever produced. I finally took the plunge when I saw this shiny 1952 model on eBay for a good price.

Now, believe me, this is going to take some getting used to. I'm accustomed to my Brother PC-420, which is a computerized machine with all the bells and whistles: an automatic thread cutter, a needle which can be programmed to stop in the up or down position, and a gazillion different stitch options and amenities. This Featherweight is bare bones. As embarrassing as it is to admit this, it feels a little strange having to cut the thread tails on my own and check the position of the needle when I finish a seam. I'm just spoiled, I guess!

So, this could get interesting. An evening gown and a tailored suit, all on this little machine? I'll need a lot of gumption. And a buttonholer attachment. (The 1948 model, naturally.) Because, due to prior traumatic experiences, there's no way I'm going to work my buttonholes by hand.

Also, to further ensure the integrity of the VoNBBS project, I've decided that there will be no more serging of seam allowances for me. I'll stick with pinking, overcasting, or binding from now on. The one thing I'm really worried about is setting in sleeves - there's no freearm capability with this machine. Goodness, I might need to do them by hand! (Hold me; I'm scared.)

I'm really hoping this new twist on the project will give me an even better sense of what home sewing was like in 1952. It's one thing to use the book and the patterns, and another thing entirely to limit myself to the equipment from that year. I'm excited! And, truthfully, a little apprehensive. (Okay, a lot apprehensive.)

The red satin sheath will be my first project on this machine. Wish me luck!

35 comments:

I make everything on a vintage Singer Touch N Sew from 1960 and while it is maddeningly frustrating at points, it is pretty cool to use the same machine my great grandmother used to make clothing. Just hang in there and you'll start loving the simplicity!

In my opinion, when it comes to sewing, the simpler the better. There is such a difference in a garment that you have really MADE BY HAND (e.g. set the sleeves, finished all the seams, hemmed, etc.) and one that has been finished by machines. It may look the same--though I think hand finishing adds a very professional look!--but just knowing that your garment really is hand-crafted, wow. Adds a whole new depth of allure. ;)

The best of luck to you in your project! I have really enjoyed reading your blog updates, and cannot wait to see your sheath!

I do all my sewing on vintage machines, my main machine is a Singer 401, but I also regularly use a 99 from 1928.

Setting sleeves without the freearm is easier than you might think. What you do is sew inside the sleeve. Instead of sewing around the outside of the armscye with the sleeve wrapped around the freearm, what you do is sew around the inside, with the presser foot inside the loop. Does that make sense? If it doesn't, let me know and I will take a photo for you.

The nice thing about sewing the sleeve this way is that the sleeve side is visible the entire time and you can see if you are inadvertently making any tucks. Normally when you are sewing on the freearm, this is pressed against the freearm bed, and you don't know if you've made any mistakes until you finish the sewing.

I was "raised" on a 1960 Singer that was also very bare bones. When my mom graciously bought me a sewing machine, she asked me what I wanted. (She now has a fancy machine with all the bells and whistles.) I told her I wanted the simplest machine possible. I now have a Janome that doesn't even have a buttonhole attachment. (There may be one out there for it, but I don't have it!) Basic stitches, nothing fancy, but it does have a freearm, thank goodness.

Oh! How utterly fun!!! :D I used my grandmother's 1950 (or thereabouts) Singer for years before I inherited my mom's late 80s Singer (though I still have my grandmother's machine; it's just in storage at my parent's house). Although it is a cabinet style, rather than a Featherweight. ;) They're a bit trick to learn to use, especially without the free arm and little bells and whistles we've come to appreciate on our newer ones! :) I think you'll have fun though; there is something so utterly satisfying about using a vintage machine to sew vintage patterns! hehe!!! Can't wait to see what you whip up on this one! :D

I do all my sewing on a 1966 Singer (Turquoise, even, yay!) The trick that Michelle mentioned works very well.

The other thing that sometimes works, depending on the garment, is to do your assembly a bit more like the factories do, and work flat as much as possible.

The sequence might be more like shoulder seams, neckline stuff, attach sleeves, and THEN do up side seams, stitching the side seam and the underarm seam in one go. I find it alot easier to ease in the sleeve cap that way, too. I even press the hem on the sleeve before I attach it to the shoulder. It's alot easier to press a little hem up on a flat piece than on a small tube!

I've been fairly pleased with my vintage buttonholer attachment. It takes a bit of practice to get a series of buttonholes lined up really well, but once you're past the learning curve, it's fine.

My Grandma says the old machines do nearly everything the new ones do - you just have to be more creative and willing to experiment a little.

Have fun!

PS: Oh, and for those lusting after a Featherweight but find the price of them hard to swallow - the Singer 301 has the same direct-drive, heavy-duty motor assembly, and even shares the same style bobbin. It's super tough, and runs lightening fast. I haul my 301 out for home-dec projects because it makes mincemeat of all those looonnnngg seams on things like curtains.

You'll love this machine. It runs beautifully! It will add character to your garments to have to be hand sewn in places and have the seams finished "by hand". I pulled mine out the other day to use in place of my more noisy modern singer. Have fun!

That's so exciting! Good luck. As for setting in sleeves...I've started basting them by hand to ease them--I find it easier and faster and I don't have to monkey around with the fabric near as much. The machine is beautiful too!

My regular machine is a 1958 Singer 401J Slant-O-Matic in cabinet. I also have a Bernina 730 Record (1965/1966) and an Elna Supermatic from 1954. The Singer has half built-in/half cam stitches, the Bernina has all built-in, and the Elna has all cam. I grew up using a Husqvarna Viking from the late 60s, and I DESPISE sewing on my mothers new plastic machine. Plastic is hideous and awful to use. If anything breaks, the thing needs to be tossed or costs and arm and a leg to fix. There's a lot of fans of vintage machines out there, many of whom have Feathweights and love them. I hope you fall for the old gals too!

Don't worry! I have the utmost confidence in you. As to sleeves, I set mine in like Michelle. My Bernina 180 has a free arm but I learned on a older machine that did not so old habits prevail. And I seldom used my serger - I really prefer a pinked seam allowance. Serging just adds alot of bulk and the pinked seam allowance doesn't mark the the outside of the garment when it is pressed.

Congrats Gertie! I have a 1950's Featherweight and love it. They make the most beautiful stitch. The vintage inspired wedding dresses that I custom make are all stitched with my Featherweight (after being basted together by hand). Free-arm's, while handy aren't necessary. Most of the older machines don't have them.

Since they don't have all the bells and whistles, you can do a lot of the maintenance on it yourself. You might want to join a Featherweight group on Yahoo. There are some really knowledgeable folks out there, that can help you with most any problem you may have. Make sure to check that the electrical is all okay before using. Have fun with this great little piece of history.

Although mine is quite young by comparison (1974 Kenmore 1813 Zig Zag) I specifically sought out an older machine when I needed a 'new' one. I wanted something similar to my mom's old 1970 Kenmore. She has a brand new Babylock with all the fancy stuff - she only does quilting now - but she kept the old Kenmore around for whenever she needed to hem my dad's jeans. She said that she made EVERYTHING with it back in the day, from baby clothes to prom dresses to curtains and jeans and that nothing beats it.

Good luck! I sew on a vintage Singer and love it. I can't wait to see the finished clothes you sew on it. And I'm sure sewing without all the gizmos of a modern machine will make you a better seamstress. Have fun!

Hi, I am sure you quickly grow to love your new machine. My mother happily used her Featherweight from the early 1950s when she married right up until the late 90s when its motor burnt out and rather than get it fixed she bought a "new" 1970s machine.

She sewed wonderful clothes for herself and my sister and me all through that time. I learned to sew with it and used it all through the 1970s until I left home. It was a lovely little machine.Enjoy.

How fun! I just bought a Singer from 1948 today--I'm pretty excited to use the buttonhole attachment especially! It'll be an interesting change from my regular machine (not computerized, but still newer) and the serger I've borrowed from my mom for the next few decades.

Sewing machines seem to multiply, don't they? Best of luck with your beautiful new machine!

Wow! this machine is deliriously beautiful! So much better than my two-years-old, 2818 plastic Singer (which has pink gingham à la BB on it, though). At home we have an antique Singer wich has a dusty leather belt and a cast iron structure, it's quite beautiful too (I love these golden curvy ornaments), but I think i'd never dare using it... far too impressive.Will you make all your projects with the featherweight, or only the VOBBS ones?(by the way, thank you for reassuring me about my English: I read a lot of English/American blogs, but I'm often too shy to comment)

I'm so in awe of your talents! I can't wait to hear how it goes on this machine. I've been wanting a vintage sewing machine for ages but right now it's not in the budget. I can't even imagine what it would have been like to sew using one. I hope it's not as frustrating as you're imagining!

Gertie, I'm so excited with you. I can't wait to hear all your stories about this new twist in your adventure. By the way, I love your new treasure. She looks gorgeous! Only for that fact I would love to have one of those here in my sewing attic :)

I have this very machine! I was my great grandmother's and it's the machine I learned to sew on! I always feel strange when I sit down at a more modern machine as I feel as though something is 'missing'.

And-I appologize for posting on such an old post but I only found your blog yesterday and have been slowly reading through your posting archive! :D