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A Blade for All Seasons

Tip! Opinions on blade height vary. I prefer exposing the entire gullet above the stock to lessen the number of teeth in the cut and provide more downward cutting pressure.

Tablesaws occupy center stage in most shops: They’re used for ripping and crosscutting hard and soft woods, plywood, tempered hardboard, and the occasional acrylic. You can even use the saw to joint an edge or resaw. With such diverse materials and cuts, selecting the right blade is essential to getting a clean, burn- and tear-out-free edge. Tablesaw blades come in a wide variety of styles and designs, but they generally fall into one of three categories: rip, crosscut, or general-purpose.

Rip blade

Rip blades stay cool and calm. Expansion slots across the surface of a rip blade and deep gullets between the teeth reduce vibration and heat buildup.

A typical 10" rip blade has 24–30 teeth, resulting in deep, wide gullets between each tooth that facilitate the removal of large amounts of material without clogging the blade or straining the saw’s motor. The blades also rely on triple-chip grind or flat-top grind teeth (below) that cut efficiently with the grain. These blades work well when jointing edges or resawing thick stock.

Crosscut blade

Don't rush when crosscutting. These high-tooth-count blades require slower feed rates to allow each tooth to do what it does best: leave perfect, splinter-free edges.

When cutting across the grain, lots of small bites work better than fewer big ones, so the more teeth the better. Typically, these blades have 60–80 teeth and employ an alternate-top-bevel (ATB) tooth configuration, resulting in an exceptionally smooth finished edge with little if any end-grain tear-out. This is also the blade of choice for clean cuts in plywood.

General-purpose blade

The do-it-all blade. Extra-beefy carbide teeth on combination blades allow them to be sharpened multiple times, thus reducing their cost over their service life.

Tip! Let the pros do the sharpening. A high-quality saw blade is precision balanced, and its teeth are in perfect symmetry with each other. Maintaining both is next to impossible without professional equipment.

In a perfect world, every shop would have one blade dedicated to ripping and another for crosscutting. Quality blades can be expensive, so this may not be an option for many woodworkers. (And some of us are too lazy to change blades all the time!) A good compromise is the combination or general-purpose saw blade. With 40–60 teeth, these blades provide very acceptable edges, whether crosscutting or ripping. Teeth generally are an ATB configuration, gullets are deep enough to carry away the larger chips, and expansion slots keep the blade cool during long rip cuts. Although these blades can’t match all the performance characteristics of dedicated blades, they’re still great alternatives.

SHOP TIP

The skinny on thin-kerf blades
When selecting a blade, consider the width of the kerf. A standard saw blade removes 1⁄8
" of material in a single pass. When cutting dense woods or thick stock, such a blade can cause a saw to labor, especially with a motor smaller than 3 hp. A thin-kerf blade, at just 3⁄32
"-thick, overcomes this by removing less material per pass, easing the strain on smaller motors. Plus, it conserves stock: That extra 1⁄32
" may pay off when making multiple cuts in expensive woods such as ebony or cocobolo.

Most blades can be purchased in either standard or thin-kerf configurations. But remember, the thickness of the blade must match the thickness of your saw’s riving knife or splitter.