Fat Sosa's

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When a man loves a woman. Can't keep him mind on nothing else. But if they're just friends, he can still think about Food Truck Friday, brought to you by our sponsor, Citizens Bank of Edmond. As always, you can find this (and many more) food trucks at Heard on Hurd, which returns to downtown Edmond 6-10 p.m. June 16.

I think I have cracked the code of why the titular Sosa of Fat Sosa’s is fat — he’s getting high on his own supply.

“High” in this case means full. And “his own supply” means the food he cooks. Maybe that was just bad phrasing on my part, but I think that phrase is hilarious, so it stays.

Fat Sosa’s is a food truck that combines two of my favorite things: really good food with a whole lot of food. People who go to Fat Sosa’s may only order one thing, but they’re buying at least two meals. Even I, a man who is looking more and more like an unkempt middle-aged Santa Claus, had to put aside part of my meal for later.

It set off something of a civil war between by brain and my stomach. My Stomach said, “This is great, but I’m about half-past full here and I don’t think I can take much more.”

“Shut up, you wimp. This is flipping every switch we’ve got up here,” Brain said. “You’re not done eating until I say you’re done.”

Expect a similar argument between your internal organs when you visit Ronnie Hishaw’s truck. It’s one of his points of pride. When he was thinking about opening his own truck, he visited lots of others and kept walking away hungry.

“I said, ‘If I open a truck, I’m going to give people portions where they don’t need to go eat at another truck,’” Hishaw said.

The Food

One thing I appreciate is a focused menu. Fat Sosa’s has three or four menu items, depending on the day. Everything is made from scratch, except for the tater tots. And let’s be honest — are you really worried about getting artisan tots?

I just want crispy exteriors and creamy interiors. And on top? A giant pile of chipotle pulled chicken, smothered in queso and pico de gallo and green chili sauce. That’s what Fat Sosa’s calls Totchos ($7 small, $9 large) — tater tot nachos. I can’t explain to you how wonderful these are without just making a bunch of moaning noises.

Totchos

It’s not dignified, frankly, so I’ll just keep those to myself. What I will tell you is that you will need to use two hands to hold this. Find a table before you dig in or else you’ll lose a giant pile of food to the street.

It’s not always available, but Fat Sosa’s does a much-loved catfish and fries basket ($10) which will be available at Heard on Hurd. Rather than go the cornmeal route, which Hishaw compares to sandpaper, he dredges his fish in a flour-based batter reminiscent of chicken strips.

Another top seller for Sosa’s is The PG-13 Burger ($10), which might be renamed after Paul George’s playoff performance. It’s one of Hishaw’s most worked on dishes, having gone through several iterations before he arrived at the perfect mix of smoked pork belly, brisket, short rib and sirloin to grind together. The result is a pork-beef hybrid burger that will have your taste buds begging for more. On top are all the usual accoutrements, as well as a barbecue aioli of which Ronnie is mighty proud.

Still, if there’s one dish you absolutely cannot afford to miss, it’s The Brody ($9).

“Think about carne asada fries, but all wrapped up in a tortilla,” he said. “That’s The Brody.”

The MVP

There’s also green pepper sauce and pico de gallo, making this one doozy of a burrito. But if you’d like your doozy even doozier, for an extra $2 you can get The MVP. The Brody has chipotle chicken and extra cheese added in before it’s rolled up and deep fried. Then it’s smothered in queso, pico and sour cream.

Technically you can eat this burrito with your hands, but a knife and fork will make a lot more sense and won’t require an entire tree be turned into napkins to clean you up. I mean, eat it with you hands if you’re taking a shower immediately after. It’s enormous, it’s delicious, it’s enormalicious and yes, that’s a word now.

Food Truck Friday reviews are brought to you by Citizens Bank of Edmond, which presents the monthly street festival, Heard on Hurd in Downtown Edmond. Heard on Hurd is an authentic block party style festival that features three dozen food trucks, a live concert with local artists and retail pop-up shops. Edmond has a special vibe of its own and Citizens Bank of Edmond provides an outlet for the Edmond community to shine. Heard on Hurd highlights the importance of supporting local eateries, artists and retailers. At the heart of Heard on Hurd is Citizens Bank of Edmond which is proud to provide the means for so many local thriving businesses.

The next Heard on Hurd is 6-10 p.m. June 16 at the corner of Broadway and Hurd in Edmond. For updates, follow @HeardonHurd on social media with hashtag #JointheHurd

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About the Author

Founder and Eater-in-Chief of I Ate Oklahoma, Greg Elwell has been reviewing restaurants and writing about Oklahoma’s food culture for more than a decade. Where a normal person orders one meal, this guy gets three. He is almost certainly going to die young and those who love him most are fairly ambivalent about it. You can email Greg at greg@iateoklahoma.com.