BBQ Joints; Joy of Small Restaurants; Gardening in September; Lamb Cooked in Yogurt

Jonathan Gold is back to talk about the best LA barbecue joints. Patrick Kuh from LA Magazine talks about the joys of small restaurants. Mark Bittman cooks lamb in yogurt for a simple dinner. Scott Daigre digs gets us digging in the garden this month. Then a visit with Amuse Cafe-owner Brooke Williamson about the challenges of running a restaurant without serving wine.

If you have a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic with the lemon juice and salt until a paste is formed. Otherwise, mince the garlic finely and stir it with the salt into the lemon juice. Use the back of a wooden spoon to smash the garlic as much as you can. Press the pepper into the steaks and then spread the garlic mixture evenly on both sides. Let the steaks sit while you preheat the grill or broiler.

Meanwhile, prepare a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill or broiler; the fire should be moderately hot and the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. When you're ready to cook, brush a little of the melted butter onto the steaks and then place on the grill. Brush once or twice more with any remaining butter while the steaks are cooking, about 4 minutes per side for medium rare. Garnish with the parsley and serve.

Put the butter in a large skillet or casserole that can later be covered and turn the heat to medium-high. When its foam subsides, add the onions, garlic, and a large pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions become very soft and brown, at least 15 minutes. Stir in the spices and cook, stirring, for another 5 minutes or so.

Add the lamb and stir. Whisk the yogurt with the cornstarch until smooth and stir it into the mixture. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then cover and turn the heat to low. Cook at least an hour, stirring occasionally, or until the lamb is very tender. Taste and adjust seasoning, then garnish with the cilantro and serve with basmati rice.

Scott Daigre is a garden designer and horticulture expert with Powerplant, 323-363-0844.