Theresa's South is an offshoot of the popular Theresa's in Westfield, but it has a completely different feel than its northern cousin.

Even though it's not on the beach in upscale Bay Head, a real Shore personality -- sunny and relaxed -- comes through. The interior of the former Heatwave Cafe has been completely redone as an open-front, airy segue to the umbrella-shaded outdoor dining area.

Theresa's South was an instant hit when it opened in June with staff that included employees of the original Theresa's and Mojave Grill, another Westfield establishment under the same ownership. Because there are no formal reservations, those arriving unannounced likely will find themselves standing in line on a busy night.

But you can call ahead 45 minutes before you want to eat. Though that's not my favorite system, because it isn't always foolproof, in my case it worked well: Our table was ready as soon as we entered.

Many items are replicated from the Westfield Theresa's menu, with a few from the Mojave Grille thrown in for welcome variety. So the offerings aren't all Italian: To start, for instance, there's a petite rack of barbecued baby back ribs ($9.95) with a sexy spicy peanut mole. Another possibility with Southwestern flair is the blackened shrimp quesadilla ($10.95) The intriguing touches here live up to the restaurant's "creative cooking" credo. Black bean/mango salsa and basil/avocado aioli add extra ripples of interest to this dish

Visitors from northern New Jersey can enjoy their favorites while on vacation. An eggplant pancake ($8.95), also on the menu at the Union County version of Theresa's, is enlivened by roasted peppers for quite an exciting experience with the way smoothed by mozzarella. Those desiring the tried-and-true can stick with crispy calamari ($11.95) to be dipped in a roasted pepper/caper aioli or a crab cake ($9.95).

Fans of the original Theresa's also will feel right at home with generous portions of made-on-the-premises pasta such as the flawless gemelli tumbled with sweet fennel sausage ($16.95) or roasted pepper and mozzarella ravioli ($18.95) highlighted by fresh tomato in a savory sage Romano broth. The gossamer ravioli were so light I thought they might float away with their delicate shavings of cheese.

The presentation of each dish was impressive; veal scallopini ($24.95), heaped with wild mushrooms, came with a potato croquette artfully shaped like a pear.

A swirl of impeccable pan-seared tuna loin slices piqued the interest even more with the aid of a yin-yang duo, ginger sesame noodles and cucumber salsa ($23.95). Apricot-glazed pork tenderloin ($19.95) takes its bow with a dramatic balsamic swirl.

There are a variety of side dishes, such as broccoli rabe ($6.95) and seasonal vegetables ($5.95), but they're really superfluous. Save your money, since entrees are well-bolstered by a variety of accompaniments, usually potatoes of some description, and a vegetable. It's a lot of eating for decent prices; several entrees are less than $20, and most are less than $25. The pasta, of course, is even less expensive, starting at $15.95 for rigatoni in a tomato/basil sauce with fresh mozzarella.

Desserts continue to pique the interest. A plump apple crostada ($6.95) a la mode complimented what came before. Chocolate cake ($6.95) was a model of its kind, though I thought the chocolate sauce that came with it constituted overkill. Banana caramel bread pudding ($6.95) got its definition from cinnamon gelato. Traditionalists can indulge in their usual creme brulee ($6.95) or tiramisu ($6.95).

Servers had a cheerful "can-do" attitude. Our only complaint in the way our meal went was the timing on delivery of our appetizers and desserts. One person at our table had a slight wait on both, but it wasn't egregious -- especially considering how busy the place was on a weekend evening. It drew a diverse crowd, from families and some senior citizens to a stylish younger group making the most of their vacations.

There's a definite buzz in the air, but despite the restaurant's popularity, I didn't find it hard to hear others at our table.

Theresa's South is a refreshing change of pace at the Shore, making the most of the summer setting while offering food that would be welcome in any season.