Fiddleheads are as tasty as they are cute

Tuesday

May 27, 2008 at 12:01 AMMay 27, 2008 at 5:38 AM

Preparing these greens can be somewhat labor intensive, but connoisseurs say they are worth the effort.

Jody Feinberg

Fiddleheads are greens so cute they call out for attention. As their name implies, they look like the spiral end of a fiddle. And like the sound of fading notes, they’re ephemeral, available only now and for the next few weeks.

"They’re a rare item that is a nice change of pace and adds panache to dishes,'' said Kris Helton, an assistant team leader at Whole Foods in Hingham.

Since their taste often is compared to asparagus, they easily can be used as substitutes in recipes that call for asparagus. Fiddleheads also pair well with morel mushrooms.

"I’m a big fan of their flavor,'' said Tom Fosnot, chef at Rocca Kitchen and Bar in the South End. "There’s a nice crispness to them, almost like an asparagus but a little bit more raw in flavor.''

Fiddleheads actually are the coiled frond of an ostrich fern, one of the few ferns that is tasty and safe to eat. Foraged from the woods and swamps throughout northern United States, they’re available only in May and parts of June, depending on the weather.

When purchasing them, choose ones that are tightly coiled, bright green and clear of brown spots. They should be eaten within a day or two, since their flavor diminishes quickly.

Preparing them is somewhat labor intensive, but connoisseurs say they are worth the effort. It’s essential to first remove traces of the thin, brown papery covering and to soak them in water to rinse out any grit. Because of their tannin, they are acidic and somewhat bitter, so they should be blanched or boiled before they are sauteed or fried.

"What’s good about the fiddleheads is they’re truly a wild, local product,'' Fosnot said. "The best cooking really comes when you use food from the place where you live that’s seasonal and fresh.''

Fosnot uses fiddleheads for seasonal vegetable gnocchi. He tosses the gnocchi with mascarpone, wild leaks and fiddleheads and serves them over asparagus puree. He also bakes fiddleheads in a gratin with bechamel cheese sauce. And always, he leaves them whole.

"Part of the beauty is their appearance,'' he said. "You wouldn’t want to chop or puree them. They’re very cute.''

They also stand alone well.

Helton, of Whole Foods, said, "They’re quite good if you just keep it simple with a quick stir fry in a little butter or olive oil and garlic.''

Another approach is to use them as a pizza topping. At Sadrine’s in Cambridge, chef Rimond Ost tops his flammekeuche, a thin-crusted Alsatian pizza, with fiddleheads and morel mushrooms.

But if you fiddle around before buying fiddleheads, you’ll miss their whole performance.

"They’re pretty versatile, but they’re only around for a very short period of time,'' said Fruit Center Marketplace general manager Steve DeJusto.

1. Bring 2 large sauce pots of salted water to a boil. The water should be as salty as ocean water.
2. Wash asparagus and remove woody bottom and cut into 1/2-inch pieces.
3. Trim stem end of fiddleheads and then soak in a bowl of cold water. Stir fiddleheads in cold water to remove any dead leaves or sticks. Pull from water and repeat process until fiddleheads are clean. Once clean, set aside to dry on a paper towel.
4. Trim root end of ramps and soak in cold water in similar fashion to fiddleheads to remove any dirt.
5. In one boiling sauce pot, add peas and cook for 1 minute or until tender. Remove peas with strainer and run until cold water to stop the peas from cooking.
6. In same water, add asparagus and cook for 30 seconds or until tender, but still with a little bite. Run under cold water to stop cooking.
7. Finally, cook fiddleheads. It is important to cook fiddleheads last because fiddleheads tend to turn water slightly red. Cook fiddleheads in boiling water for 1 minute and then strain and run under cold water.
8. In a sauce pan, add water, salt, pepper, butter and mascarpone together and bring to simmer. Add vegetables and keep warm.
9. In separate boiling water, add gnocchi and cook until gnocchi float. Strain and add to sauté pan with vegetables and cheese.
10. Bring to simmer and finish with chives and parmigiano cheese. Serve immediately.
Serves 4.

Courtesy of Tom Fosnot, Rocca Kitchen and Bar

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