Review: Wines of Bodegas Farina

Bodegas Farina is one of the oldest family wineries in Toro, a poorly-known wine region in Spain that’s northwest of Madrid, near Salamanca and the northeast corner of Portugal. (Ribera del Duero is the best-known nearby region, off to the east.)

The bodega makes seven wines, most coming in at relatively low (13-14 percent) alcohol levels due to the early harvesting of grapes. How well does this work out? Notes on three of the wines, all under the Dama de Toro label, follow.

2010 Bodegas Farina Dama de Toro Malvasia – Funky, with lots of off herbal notes. Opens up with continued sipping, but not a lot. Some lemon on the finish, but not enough to add a lot of charm. Made from 100-year-old Malvasia vines. C / $11

2006 Bodegas Farina Gran Dama de Toro – Easily the most complicated of this trinity, with distinct tobacco, cedar, and evergreen notes. Long finish, though it turns a bit toward bitter. Could use more fruit in the body, but overall quite interesting and nice with a complementary meal. Spends 15 months in oak. From 80+ year old vines. 94% Tempranillo with 6% Garnacha. B+ / $45