The neck can be a particularly troublesome area to shave. Some just can’t seem to get a close enough shave. Others are troubled by razor burn with redness and pain, nicks, cuts, and ingrown hairs. Here are 10 strategies that can help tame the neck:

1. Detailed Grain Mapping

The “grain” of the beard–the direction(s) the hairs grow in–can be completely counter-intuitive when it comes to the neck. They can even sometimes grow in a circular pattern. Understanding how the hair grows on your neck is the first step in overcoming shaving problems there. To accomplish this, create a map of your beard with a mapping aid like this one. Using a mirror and gentle circular motions of the fingers, determine the direction(s) your beard is growing in and sketch that onto the face map. Writing arrows in the direction of growth in each box will help you understand how to best shave those areas.

Shaving with the grain initially is one of the basic concepts in shaving, particularly important if you are using a multi-blade cartridge razor. It’s a bit less important with a double-edged razor (you can “cheat” a little and follow the predominant direction without worrying about every twist and turn), but still necessary to keep in mind. Reducing the beard in stages is the key take-away here.

2. Careful Preparation

Properly preparing the skin of the neck is often overlooked: copious amounts of hot water or gently cleaning the skin on the face doesn’t get to the neck. Pay attention and be sure that warm towel or “barbershop prep” lather covers the neck! Some shavers troubled by ingrown hairs on the neck should try a good, thorough scrubbing of the area before putting razor to skin.

3. Pre-shave Oil

I’m not a big fan of pre-shave oils, but some have found that applying some on the neck helps reduce irritation. Wet your face, apply the oil, and then apply your shaving cream.

First, what do I mean by a “gentle” razor? In the world of DE shaving, some razors have a reputation for being “gentle” because they’re engineered to expose less of the blade edge when shaving. While you won’t get as close of a shave with a gentle DE razor, it’s definitely much more comfortable and causes less irritation. Some popular gentle razors include the Merkur Classic, Weishi, and many of the vintage Gillette safety razors. On adjustable DE razors you can adjust the razor for a gentler or more aggressive shave. Dial down for a milder shave on the neck, then dial up for other parts of your face.

One of the things you can do to further reduce irritation when shaving on sensitive areas like the neck is to combine a gentle razor with a high performance razor blade like the blades from Feather. A gentle razor that doesn’t expose much blade to the skin, coupled with a high performance blade, provides a much more efficient cut, reducing the chance for irritation.

Adjusting a cartridge razor (like a Gillette Fusion) in this fashion is tougher as the variety of available blade sources is limited. If you’re using a cartridge razor, your best bet to reduce irritation is to go with a cartridge with fewer blades. However that is not “etched in stone,” so some experimentation may be necessary.

6. Flattening–Not Over-Stretching–The Skin

Let’s face it — the neck is not a flat area; it’s a terrain of curves and odd angles. Many shavers will tilt their head upwards to pull the skin of the neck taut. This may help, but it doesn’t really flatten the area. Instead, try leaning forward and tilting the head back SLIGHTLY. Shorter strokes on the razor may also help cover flatter areas more consistently.

7. Use No Pressure on the Razor

No pressure means NO PRESSURE!

8. Try Some “Advanced” Shaving Tricks on Small Areas

This is not for everyone, but if you have small areas of stubble or rough patches, you can try some techniques like “J-Hooking” or “Blade Buffing” to cover those areas without re-shaving–and possibly getting irritation–over a wider area. However, over-doing these advanced techniques can be a prescription for trouble if not done carefully and judiciously.

9. Thoroughly Clean the Neck After the Shave

A very thorough rinsing of the neck with warm water after the shave (before applying aftershave) will help remove any remaining lather residue, particularly important for those prone to ingrown hairs. I personally go one step further: after the warm water rinse, I soak a cotton pad in witch hazel and wipe down the area. You may be surprised what the pad picks up. Follow with a brief cool water rinse and aftershave product.

10. Settle for Less

Do you really need that “baby’s butt smooth” neck? Maybe it’s time to skip that third pass and go for looking “presentable.”

Shaving is something that most men do every day but seldom give much thought to. That said, putting a little effort into your hair removal routine can yield dividends in added comfort and improved skin. Turn your morning chore into a spa-like indulgence with these simple tips:

Pre-Shave

While most men are accustomed to just slopping on some drug store shaving foam and hacking away at their morning stubble, a good pre-shave routine can improve both the quality of your shave and dramatically reduce any irritation to your precious face.

1. Take a HOT shower

While many of us rely on a hot shower in the morning to shock us into consciousness, steaming up the bathroom can also be a great first step in your shaving routine. Steam causes the pores in your face to relax and the skin to soften, allowing your razor to slide smoothly across your morning mug.

2. Soften your beard

While in the shower, apply a generous coating of hair conditioner into your beard and work it in with your fingertips. Let the conditioner stay on your beard for a couple of minutes, allowing it to soften the hair on your face.

3. Use a Pre-Shave Oil

Once you get out of the shower, your beard and the skin underneath it will be soft and supple, and by applying a layer of pre-shave oil, you can help to keep it that way by locking in the moisture. In addition, oil helps to lubricate the blade as it moves across the contours of your face, reducing nicks and irritation. While you can buy specialty shaving oils, you can also use plain old olive, coconut, canola or just about any other oil that you can think of… save for that which goes in your car.

Shave Time

Finally, the main event! Now that your face is good and ready, we can get out the razor and begin the precision process of shaving.

4. Use a sharp blade

Whether you rock a straight edge blade, DE safety razor or a plain old Mach 3 disposal, the important thing is that whatever you use is sharp. With razor cartridge prices being as insanely high as they are, you can see why some dudes opt to reuse the same blade for three months straight, until it is basically just tearing the hair from their face… don’t be that guy, it is not worth the money you are saving. Change blades as soon as they start to drag across your beard as opposed to gliding smoothly. Most disposable blades are only good for a week’s worth of shaving, sometimes less. If you find that changing your razor cartridges that often is bleeding you dry, consider switching to a double edge safety razor, the blades are ultra sharp and dirt cheap.

5. Apply a high quality shaving cream

Ditch that old can of Barbasol and pick up a high quality shaving cream made with all natural ingredients that will not only improve your shave but nourish your skin. Avoid any product that contains parabens or silicone. If you want a real treat, try using a high quality badger or boar hair shaving brush to get a really good lather going, you will thank me.

6. Use short strokes

There is a common shaving misconception that it is better to make long, continuous strokes, from upper cheek to the bottom of your neck. In actuality, you are better off with short precise strokes which allow you to better control the amount of downward pressure you are placing on your razor, which helps limit irritation.

7. First, shave with the grain

On your first run, shave in the direction of your hair growth. This will help you to remove the bulk of the hair and cause minimal irritation.

8. Then shave across and against the grain

After your initial shave, reapply shaving cream and completely clean your razor before shaving across the grain and then finally against the grain for a super close shave that might just keep your five o’clock shadow at bay for a few extra hours.

Post-Shave

Now that the hard part is over, there are just a few more steps to make sure that your money-maker looks great after losing its hairy top coat.

9. Rinse your face with cold water

Remove any remaining shaving cream or pre-shave oil by splashing your face with cold water, which will close your pores and tighten the skin of your face.

10. Use an Alum Block

Go buy an alum block… it’s okay, we’ll wait. Alright, now wet that alum block and gently run it across your freshly shaved face and prepare to feel every spot that you nicked just moments earlier. Alum is a mild antiseptic that will help to instantly seal any minor cuts while cooling and refreshing your skin.

11. Apply a toner

Splash a little witch hazel or any other high quality toner onto your skin and wipe it off with a cotton pad to remove any excess oils form your skin.

12. Moisturize

If your skin feels dry after your shaving routine, be sure to apply a moisturizer, preferably one with SPF protection to the dry areas and work it in gently with your fingertips.