I am new to Cichlids and I am very keen on getting some Shell dwellers. I have kept a range of tropical freshwater species with plants successfully for the last few years.

I am a little concerned about water changes with Shell dwellers, if I am replacing 10-20% water can I use cold water from my tap? Can someone please break it down for me, as I am getting mixed ideas and some individuals are complicating the heck out of it I am aware that you have to use Seachem buffers etc, I am in England, is anyone in England from here who has kept them successfully.. please help!

Hello and welcome. What are your challenges more specifically? Is there a reason that adjusting your replacement water for temp, give or take a couple degrees -/+, is an issue? For some folks it is, but there is generally a solution. What are your tap water parameters on pH and hardness? Those are the starting keys for choosing a strategy to amend (or not) your tap water.

While some Tanganyikans (especially fry) are more sensitive to water changes than others, the oft repeated, blanket suggestion that they can't handle water changes is way overblown. As far as multis, I have found both the adults and fry to be quite hardy. So long as the water going in has relatively the same parameters as the water coming out, most fish can handle large, regular water changes without issue. Depending on your setup and your tap water, it will be more or less complicated in terms of time and effort. Let us know a bit more about the particular obstacles you are seeing.

Good Morning, thank you for the reply, I am on UK time, so please bear with me.

I have an 18 gallon tank, I am filling the base with 1/2" of Aquarium sand, not using a coral base unless you think it shall help? Eheim 2213 external canister filter, Shells and probably 2 pairs. That's it quite light I think.

My tap water parameters are perfect and I am not to keen on using buffers, I'm all about realistic consistency. My main concern is that when I do water changes, I dont use buckets, I have a cold water tap set up and begin filling the 10 percent straight from the tap, as I do this I make sure the temp is withing a (+/-) 2/3 degrees, dechlorinator etc is added. This has worked really well with my freshwater setup and I find that the fish are a little more sprite when I do this. I rarely ever do anything more than 10 percent changes 2/3 times a week. In a nutshell what I am trying to say is; "would this be ok with Multis?" (single species tank)

I have watched and read reports videos etc and there are those who do the above and others who have drums of water etc ready for changes.

A 10% water change with water that is three degrees cooler than the tank isn't that big a deal. Especially if the water is circulating. Pretty much negligible. However, if you notice signs of stress/abnormal behavior during a water change then you would want to try to determine the cause and make appropriate changes to your routine. I actually match my replacement water for temp and I've never had a problem dumping in a bucket of water that was a couple degrees cooler than the tank. If the tap water is really cold, grab a 2 gallon watering can and fill it the day before. Then when you do your water change you have water that's at least room temp and you haven't really complicated anything other than finding a place to store a two gallon watering can. Just a thought. But you are right that there are a lot of approaches out there. Everything from pre-processing replacement water in huge drums to just hooking up a hose to the cold water tap and letting it go.

My multis are currently in a 40 breeder. Until recently I used a canister filter on the tank. Would still be using it if it hadn't stopped working properly. I had a spraybar on the return. Experimented with multiple spraybar placements. I encourage you to do the same. The layout of your tank and the performance of your filter will create an idiosyncratic situation. In my experience, multies are comfortable with low to moderate flow, but they will avoid strong currents. It will only take a few minutes for you to gauge the effect your return flow is having on your fish.

Could you describe a little more what you are referring to by "oxygen diffuser"? I'm tempted to assume you are talking about what gets called an air stone on this side of the pond. Though I know there are more sophisticated set ups. But in general, I don't think hobbyists need to supplement oxygen levels on typical aquariums--especially with low stocking levels. Gas exchange will occur across the surface of the water. So long as water is moving across the top, you're pretty much covered. That said, I do use air stones as the mood hits or if I don't feel like my filter placement is creating enough turbulence at the surface. In the case of air stones, any improvement they have on oxygen levels is more a result of the additional turbulence they create at the surface than by the bubbles travelling up through the water. A secondary use of airstones is to create current. As the bubbles rise they create flow. Sounds silly to say, I know. But if you have a "dead zone" in your tank, it's a simple fix to drop an air stone in that spot to get the water moving. Personally, I hate the hard water deposits the popping bubbles create on the rim of the tank, but they are not without their uses. Probably more than you wanted to know about whether I'd use an oxygen diffuser--but I'm just awful with one sentence answers.

I have a 20 gallon with 4 adult multis and probably 30 fry of various ages, also 4 julidochromis transcriptus. I run an eheim canister and a sponge filter, and do 25% changes every 2-4 weeks with cold tap and never experienced any issues. Multis are very hardy in my opinion, especially the tank bred specimens that are typically kept.

Thank you very much for all the replies, I seem to agree with KappaSoFish, I work on the same philosophy and things seem to be working. I am collecting my Multi's today from a cichlid keeper locally, excited!

Question about the temperature of your cold water. KappaSoFish is from California and Sulemanibnmoosa is from England. I'll bet there is a drastic difference in the temperature of your water. Have either of you measured it summer and winter? I've checked mine and its about 65-70F in the summer and maybe 45F in the winter.

Question about the temperature of your cold water. KappaSoFish is from California and Sulemanibnmoosa is from England. I'll bet there is a drastic difference in the temperature of your water. Have either of you measured it summer and winter? I've checked mine and its about 65-70F in the summer and maybe 45F in the winter.

Your question really made me think, so I checked on a water change today. Today was a bitter cold California winter day with a high of 64F and a low of 51F. The temperature of the water was taken with a glass thermometer. For the measurements of the new water and of the change in tank temp, I placed the thermometer in the water and timed it for 10 minutes before taking the reading.

25% water changeTank before water change: 80FNew water going in: 67FTank after water change: 77F

Thank you for all your help, my Multi's are doing well and I have found them to be very easy! Don over think and go with your gut feeling when it comes to water changes! If your system is effecient, you should need to do massive water changes I have 10 percent thrice a week