1Check that the dryer door is closing completely. Remove anything that blocks the dryer door from closing. 2Ensure the "Start" button is pressed firmly to start the dryer cycle, the dryer is not overloaded and the clothing is not balled up. Any of these things can prevent the dryer from operating and/or drying the clothes.

3Use a level to confirm your Whirlpool dryer is sitting flatly and evenly on the ground. Adjust the dryer as necessary for it to be level as the dryer will vibrate and make unnecessary noise when sitting unevenly. 4Examine the inside of the Whirlpool dryer drum and in the space around the drum for loose change, pens, hair ties and other items that could have been left in the pockets of clothing. These items will cause noise and potentially cause the dryer to become inoperable. 5Examine the Whirlpool dryer's lint trap for excess lint. Remove any lint from the trap and place it back into position. Always clean the lint trap between dryer cycles. Inspect the area around the dryer and in the ventilation and exhaust systems. Remove any built up lint and clean the area thoroughly. Built up lint is a fire hazard and can cause operating issues. 6Check the gas shutoff valve if your Whirlpool dryer is gas powered. Ensure the shutoff valve is turned all the way to the "On" position. 7Check the electric plug and ensure it fits securely in the outlet. 8inspect both the fuse box and circuit breaker for any electrical problems. Replace any blown fuses, if necessary, and reset the circuit breaker if it has been tripp

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The timer should advance in the time dry cycles if it does, it is fine
Its common for them to not in automatic cycles when there is no heat
I would call for service unless you have basic gas appliance knowledge , as it is dangerous
If you decide attempt i can tell you what to look for
Please rate my help .....Thanks

Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.Below is a link to common solutions that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.It provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Once you access the site you will be able to navigate numerous pages of information on your product. You will need to enter your model number to access your product information.http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/smartsearch.aspxHere are some things to look for:
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

IgniterGas valve coilsThermal fuseIgniter
Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.

The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.

Gas valve coils
Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.

Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.) If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue. Thank you,Dave E. (Illeagle)"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

I am diagnosing a similar problem in my dryer. Mine is a MDG4000BWW but the part catalog looks almost exactly the same. If you haven't done so already, make sure your vent pipe is clear. Since the air flow carries away the combustion gasses, there are safety switches to shut off the gas if the vent is blocked. If the vent is clear, take off the front cover by unscrewing the four screws that hold the door and door stops. The front panel should tilt forward and come free. The gas control is pretty straightforward. There is an ignitor that heats up and glows yellow. On my machine it is on the left hand side of the burner and is very obvious. If the ignitor does not heat up, that is probably the problem. You can confirm that the ignitor is getting electricity with a voltmeter. If you don't have one try the other heat ranges on the dial. It is unlikely that all the control positions would go bad at once, so if none of them make the ignitor work I'd recommend replacing it. If the ignitor works then a solenoid (electric control valve) should open and allow gas to flow into the burner. If the ignitor goes off without the burner starting, then the primary solenoid needs to the replaced. If the burner lights but does not stay on, then there are two potential problems. There is a flame sensor that detects the fact that the burner is on and sends a signal to a second solenoid to keep the gas on. It may be hard to tell which is the problem without a meter. My bet would be the solenoid. If the gas comes on properly and stays on for more than a minute or so, but then goes off and does not come back on I think you have a thermostat problem. There are two (on my machine) one to prevent overheating and one that cycles that gas on and off to maintain temperature. The high limit thermostat is to prevent fire if the cycle thermostat fails. All the parts are available online and range from about $16.00 to $35.00. Hope this helps - good luck

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possible of lint build up in the discharge vent vaccum/clean out first. next ensure the filter trap is clean and the below area is in the discharge area is cleaned out. also the sensor on the inside of the drum could be coated with sooftner causing the sensor that automaticly tells the dryer when top stop/ amount of heat to produce could be coated use isopropel alchol to clean and check after 10 minutes if the dyer is functioning properly at this time.