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Tani is a Korean restaurant in Tustin. The budae jjigae is the only thing you need to order here. As you spoon ladle after ladle of the luncheon-meat brew into bowls, you will discover what the people of Uijeongbu did more than a half-century ago: the sharp, sweet and spicy funk of the Korean broth was a perfect foil to the soft and salty SPAM. In fact, everything that wasn’t Korean—the bologna, the fat-rimmed scraps of ham, the frankfurters sliced on the bias—became the best versions of themselves. It’s a great dish: filling, satisfying, unexpected.

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