Delaware probably was about five years behind on the sushi explosion. Maybe it’s a good thing—we now have about four years to prepare ourselves for the trend of turning human bodies into sushi plates.

Neighborhood sushi restaurants may not yet be as prolific as, say, neighborhood pizza shops, but we’ve gotten to the point of being discerning sushi consumers. Just as decisively as we can name our favorite place for an Italian sub, we can name our best pick for crunchy spider rolls.

And like those indistinguishable cheesesteak-n-pizza places, it’s sometimes hard to tell what separates a good sushi place from a so-so one, because chances are the menus will look pretty similar. Our favorites usually have something to offer that the others don’t, be it amazingly fresh sourced product, an addictive signature roll, inventive twists or flawless execution of the menu, or maybe just a neat atmosphere.Which brings us to Kooma, an Asian fusion and sushi restaurant with considerably more on the line than most of its First State forbearers. In Justison Landing—the ambitious, multifaceted city center at the Wilmington Riverfront—and flanked by AAA Mid-Atlantic and Barclay’s Bank, Kooma seems like a hopeful hot spot for new residents and area professionals.

Going by first impressions, Kooma is exactly the kind of place developers wished for before they went to bed at night. Here is a sleek, ultra-hip, urbane place teeming with glowy lights, DJ nights, scandalously named cocktails and staffed almost entirely by sexy young people. There are frosted windows, low lighting from high-hanging lamps, a curvilinear bar and a cool silvery palette everywhere you look.