Whats up guys. This may seem strange seeing me post on an ls1 page, but I sold the cummins and bought an 02 camaro Z28. I will post pictures shortly. All of the suspension has been done. I am not a suspension guy, so I am not motivated to list al of the parts, but basically when you look underneath, it is all shiny red bars and brackets from front to back. Sits nice and low too. Has corvette big rotors and calipers with drilled and slotted rotors front and back, rear end got a new differential with 3.73's, long tube headers, flowmaster muffler which I know, they flow like shit and I will be ridding of that shortly for a spin-tech. Interior is mint, steering is tight, paint and body are great.

The engine is mostly stock other then the tune was modified by some performance shop in Mass. a4 trans, which I am more than happy with. Car is faster than my old black nova that had a weiand 142 charger. Finally back in the hotrodding game, and got the car I have wanted for at least ten years for only 5k.

With that being said, I am completely new to the ls1 world. This engine has 162k on it. Runs like a top, no lights on, has very impressive power. But I will be asking you guys very simple questions, as if I have never worked on a car in my life. I want to insure this ls1 gets the best treatment. First things first for this weekend is oil change. I will always run valvoline vr1 synthetic. I wont explain the reasons why but it is what I trust. My first question is what weight? It is recommended you run 5w30, but I am a huge proponent of thick oil. What is the thickest I can safely run in this engine with the bearing clearances it has? Also, are there any tricks, old man advice, or just any secrets any of you have that I should know about this engine before I begin buying shiny stuff?

(I already have the plans and finances to get ahold of an lq4 6 liter to build on the side.)

But as for the engine that is currently in it, I am purchasing a single turbo kit set at 8-9 psi, and valve springs and cam. What can the factory fuel system handle, and will I need to bump up on injectors? Or can the computer be flashed to compensate? Like I said earlier, the ls1 is new to me, so these questions will seem to be beginner._________________"Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines." -Enzo Ferrari

Fuel pump size to support 700 HP is approximately 240 liter/hour flow rate which the stock pump will not support._________________Stop running from your pain and embrace your pain. Your pain is going to be a part of your prize.

Thanks. Alright beautiful. Quick update. I have decided to purchase the carburetor intake manifold kit with the msd control module. It costs $650 with a single plane intake. Here's my theory and correct me if I am wrong.

If I were to make this a carbureted ls which is what I want, I could then just purchase a lone supercharger, either vortech or procharger, and run without an intercooler? I could easily push 9-10psi on my old chevy's through a 6-71 and dial it in to run 93 fuel, and that's with steel heads. Is it not possible to run a centrifugal at 7psi directly to the carburetor on an all aluminum ls?

I want to modify this car as little as possible. It seems to me that converting it to carbureted and running no intercooler, as well as deactivating the factory fuel pump and installing an external high valume pump would make that possible, and I would not have to worry about an injector failing at high rpm and all the other headache that can come with fuel infection. No more 02 sensors, maf sensors, etc etc. Run a blow through carb, centrifugal set at 7-8psi, and set up the boost retard that the msd control module comes with. I cant see how I would have an issue and it at least seems that I shouldnt run into major issues. Any opinions on this? I am not looking for 700hp. The goals are 450-500 rwhp without mangling and modifying the car itself._________________"Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines." -Enzo Ferrari

As much as I hate the idea of surrendering control of the engine to a computer it has a couple of qualities that you can not over look. The first is that by sampling the motor several hundred of times a second it is actually faster than the highest RPM flame front and can stop detonation in its tracks by adding fuel and pulling timing on the next power stroke. Saving a motor from certain death is a great feature especially if you are adding boost.

The second thing is drivability. A carb will out perform EFI at WOT but that same carb can not deliver good bottom end and mid range fuel distribution. A carb on this type of motor is only good on a drag car. Which your car doesn't even resemble (first clue is the missing trailer). Since I expect you to want to drive this more frequently on the street than the track I would recommend that you retain the EFI and modify that EFI system to meet your needs (Keith and Smoke can assist you in buying the right parts for this).

I don't think a Roots blower will work with EFI (I'm sure some one has a manifold to bolt it up but the crank won't support a Roots blower as it isn't even keyed). A Procharger or better yet Turbo would be the power adder to choose if you want to add boost.

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