Chindeni

About 7km further upstream than Bilimungwe, Chindeni is about three hours' drive south of Mfuwe. It stands on the banks of a large, permanent ox-bow lagoon, which stretches away from it on both sides. The main river is about 1km away, and in the near distance rise the Nchindeni Hills, overlooking the park's eastern boundary.

Chindeni's tents are each tucked into the vegetation beside the lagoon, and raised up on hardwood decks. Each has a shaded veranda with chairs at the front, and an en-suite (hot and cold) shower, flush toilet and pair of wash basins at the back. These are really very well furnished for such a small camp – with large writing desks and deck chairs, big wooden wardrobes, two double beds and great attention to detail. (The room at the left-hand end is my favourite; it's got an enormous balcony with its own hammock.) The central dining room/bar area is also on wooden decking, in the centre of the four tents, and underneath ebony and tamarind trees.

It's usual to spend a few days here as well as time at Bilimungwe, and the camp is only about 2km from the Nyamaluma Pontoon (which is generally not in good working order these days). Chindeni is primarily a walking camp, though night drives are always available. On a promising note, in the first half of 1999 both camps reported regular sightings of wild dog in the Kapamba River area; it seems that a pack of nine dogs were frequenting the area.