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lotsa d0000ds gonna snap off the captured nuts in the subframe tryin this.....lots and lots

and this is one of those things that is NOT easy to fix....but REAL-REAL easy to **** up because of rust in the threads of the captured nut....and once the captured nut snaps off...ya cant get the bolt out without dropping the subframe...even if ya cut the bolt head off....and then it will rattle

have fun

^^^bsdoig, this is what probably happened to you. You have to be VERY VERY careful that the threads are clean and you can thread it in with your hand all the way before using a wrench.
Good luck.

^^^bsdoig, this is what probably happened to you. You have to be VERY VERY careful that the threads are clean and you can thread it in with your hand all the way before using a wrench.
Good luck.

No I don't think so…….I was able to pull he bolts right back out without any issues. Threads were tapped and clean. I could run the bolt by itself all the way through without any issues. It was like where the brass meets the subframe it was just collapsing and wouldn't get tight. I'm gonna leave them off for now since I didn't like the way they felt when tightening.

I made the same diy mod.
bought 2 bolts for 2$, then bought brass material for 10$ and then machining for 5$.

it made big difference! when my 02wrx rear was sliding away on tail braking in some specific conrners, in the same corners after lockdown bolts + front anti lift kit I had almost no rear slide, very controllable corner entry oversteer/understeer. I feel I'm not loosing rear camber when high side loads...

I would say Delrin would be the ideal material. I have since made some for mine out of Delrin just to cut back on some of the rear diff whine I hear from the solid bushings back there. Brass would be my second choice.

I would say Delrin would be the ideal material. I have since made some for mine out of Delrin just to cut back on some of the rear diff whine I hear from the solid bushings back there. Brass would be my second choice.

d00000d...the whiteline bolts are straight steel and they dont make any noise or have anything to do with rear diff whine

The rear diff is mounted in the rear sub frame with rubber bushings, so you never hear the whine. With my car, I made solid bushings to make it have no more play in it. The combination of the rear diff being mounted solid to the subframe, and the subframe being solid to the rest of the car using these lockdown bolts, made it so I could hear the rear diff loud and clear at cruising speed on the highway. Once I made the subframe lockdown bushings out of Delrin, now I can barely hear the rear diff at all.

The difference is that I don't think anyone has mounted the rear diff solid to the rear subframe like I have. Yea, the polyurethane bushings for the rear diff would probably work better, but I already did mine solid, and I love the response of the rear end now.

The rear diff is mounted in the rear sub frame with rubber bushings, so you never hear the whine. With my car, I made solid bushings to make it have no more play in it. The combination of the rear diff being mounted solid to the subframe, and the subframe being solid to the rest of the car using these lockdown bolts, made it so I could hear the rear diff loud and clear at cruising speed on the highway. Once I made the subframe lockdown bushings out of Delrin, now I can barely hear the rear diff at all.

The difference is that I don't think anyone has mounted the rear diff solid to the rear subframe like I have. Yea, the polyurethane bushings for the rear diff would probably work better, but I already did mine solid, and I love the response of the rear end now.