Edward A. Ornelas: Return to Kabul

I’ve been in Kabul, Afghanistan for a week now, and as a photojournalist I consider it nirvana.

The last time I was here was 2002. After driving from San Antonio to New York to cover the 9-11 attacks, I was asked to travel to Pakistan for a month-long assignment. One month turned into six, traveling between Pakistan, India, and Afghanistan. Then, journalists scrambled for ways to get into the country. This time I was able to book a flight on the Internet from Dubai to Kabul.

The moment I stepped off the plane, I recognized that welcomed smell that is unique to Kabul. The best way to describe it is smoky. Kabul has changed, yet it remains the same. The Afghans continue to be extremely strong, proud, and hospitable people. There are now shopping malls, mobile phones and ATMs. There are more places to lodge.

Seven years ago I stayed at a private home and then moved into the Mustafa, one of the biggest hotels in Kabul and at the time home to many journalists. It was a great place. We’ve driven past it a couple of times. I hope I get a chance to stop in.

Most journalists were regulars at the Herat restaurant, but now there are too many restaurants to list. All have good food, and I have a favorite already: Boccaccio. The food is good, but that’s not why it’s my favorite.

The last week has been rainy, making the pothole-filled streets and everything else muddy. Not much sun, so the light has been okay at best, but not good for photos. It’ll be getting really cold soon; yesterday there were very light snow flurries, but I’m ready to stay another six months.See more photos from Kabul on the Express-News photo journal