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The Latest Word on Anti-Aging Actives

Today’s anti-aging skin care formulas are better than ever, agree marketers and dermatologists. Yet, even as more products reach consumers, there are still many questions that must be answered.

Tom Branna
Editorial Director

Few categories capture the consumer’s imagination—or discretionary income—like anti-aging products. Women and men may skimp when it comes to a shampoo purchase, but when they see that first line or wrinkle, more and more are willing to shell out hundreds of dollars for a wrinkle cream that promises to work wonders.

Euromonitor International estimates the global market for anti-aging products approached $15 billion (retail) last year, and predicts sales will reach $21.3 billion in 2012. It’s no wonder then why the anti-aging category is capturing the attention of marketers and suppliers around the world too. As interest in the category continues to grow, the efficacy level of products grows along with it.

“I am impressed with the amount of research that goes into finding new actives and creating new formulations that are efficacious and cosmetically elegant,” said Andrew Alexis, a New York City-based dermatologist.

“The industry has come a long way and actives have made a huge difference,” agreed Zoe Draelos, a High Point, NC dermatologist. “The industry has taken care to put together formulations that contain multifunctional moisturizers, sunscreens and other ingredients that are beneficial to skin.”

Perricone has developed a wide range of skin care lines.

Nicholas V. Perricone, founder of PerriconeMD Cosmeceuticals, agrees that, compared to a decade ago, the industry is doing a better job of trying to understand the skin and how different ingredients affect it. But he warned that, too often, marketers get caught up in the latest industry buzzwords and do not consider the right form of the ingredient. First and foremost, he explained, it must be compatible with the skin and if the ingredient is water-soluble, as opposed to fat-soluble, the answer is going to be no, he told Happi.

For example, water-soluble vitamin C (ascorbic acid), while very good as a supplement, has some serious drawbacks when used as a topical ingredient.

“It cannot protect cell membranes, nor can the skin maintain adequate levels when we experience oxidative stress, either from internal sources such as poor diet and stress, or from external sources such as sunlight,” he said.

“And because vitamin C ester can reside in our cells’ fatty membranes, it continuously regenerates the vitamin E depleted by that fat-soluble antioxidant’s ongoing fight against free radicals,” he said.

According to Dr. Perricone, other questions that formulators must answer before they develop a product include: Is the ingredient backed by solid science? Is the delivery system viable—can it get key ingredients into the skin? And last but not least, does the product contain truly efficacious amounts of the targeted ingredient?

“Often the answer is no to at least one if not all of the above,” he said. “High quality antioxidants in efficacious amounts can be costly and, as with most things, we get what we pay for.”

Navin Geria, Happi columnist and vice president of R&D at SpaDermaceuticals, issued a word of caution before consumers plunk down $300 or more for an exotic topical potion that promises results overnight.

“Most long-lasting skin benefits are noticeable after a few weeks of disciplined use of the product, so consider using existing anti-aging products, and remember that if used daily, you will not see a miracle but they will produce modest beneficial effects,” he said.

The Doctor’s Opinion

Products that don’t deliver what they promise can ultimately send consumers to the dermatologist. In his practice, Dr. Alexis sees many patients suffering from severe acne who have tried a variety of products available in drugstores, department stores and online.

“When the patient comes to me, we switch them to topical retinoids, topical benzoyl peroxide and antibioitics and follow that with an oral antibiotic,” he explained.

Many companies are touting the benefits of peptides in their formulas, but Jody Comstock, an Arizona-based dermatologist, insisted that the jury is still out on this ingredient class.

“Peptides are interesting, and may have benefits, but we’re waiting for more studies that include biopsies,” she told Happi. “Do they really stimulate collagen production? Even rubbing your skin stimulates collagen.”

Dr. Comstock, who works with Obagi, acknowledged that peptides may have applications as inflammatory agents, but nothing she has seen can replace the effectiveness of vitamin A and its derivatives.

“Vitamin A can provide the most dramatic improvement to the skin from rejuvenating and exfoliating it to treating acne,” she explained. “But not everyone can use Retin A; a new form on the market combines Retin A with hyaluronic acid to make it more palatable to the skin.”

Dr. Draelos agreed that the jury is still out on peptides.

“We can’t assess the efficacy of the products. Peptides haven’t been in use long enough,” she explained.

She called retinoids the most effective topical anti-aging treatment, but at the same time, Dr. Draelos called sunscreen the most important anti-aging ingredient available.

“While these may not all be brand new, scientific studies are ongoing with very exciting results,” explained Dr. Perricone. “Thanks to so many emerging technologies, the future looks very positive when it comes to rejuvenation of the skin.”

All the dermatologists that Happi spoke with agreed that getting the right nutrients is important for healthy skin.

“Antioxidants are very important in a diet,” explained Dr. Draelos. “Vitamin C is crucial to maintaining health, but if you don’t get it in your diet, it won’t help to apply a vitamin C-based cream.”

Use that Sunscreen

Finally, all the dermatologists agreed that sunscreen plays a critical role in maintaing healthy skin.

“The most important anti-aging ingredient by far is sunscreen,” said Dr. Draelos.

Olay Puts the Spotlight on Skin Cancer

The numbers are staggering. One in every five Americans will be diagnosed with skin cancer over the course of their lives, and one person will die nearly every hour in the U.S. as a result of melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer. Although the disease is nearly 100% curable when detected and treated early, many consumers have no idea what to look for when checking their skin. This need for education drove Olay to partner with the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS) for an annual skin cancer awareness campaign, called Skin Cancer Takes Friends.

In 2007, Skin Cancer Takes Friends volunteer dermasurgeons performed over 9,000 free screenings and identified more than 2,400 suspicious lesions, potentially saving numerous lives. This year, the 2008 program is once again on pace for tremendous success, with a goal of performing more than 10,000 free screenings and increasing the number of participating dermasurgeons to more than 300 nationwide.

In the four years since its inception, Skin Cancer Takes Friends has evolved from an educational public-relations program led by a small group of influential dermasurgeons to a fully-integrated marketing effort, including www.SkinCancerTakesFriends.org and tapping into celebrity spokespeople, most recently Marcia Cross. The program not only helps to inform the public about the dangers of this growing, silent killer but also offers solutions by providing free skin cancer screenings nationwide from May through July. The PR-driven program works to harness the power and influence of friendship by urging people to schedule a screening for themselves and a friend, so they can go together. Dual screenings encourage true woman-to-woman connections and conversations about the disease, as well as real peer-influenced action, according to organizers.

“Many of my patients complain that sunscreens leave a whitish hue on their skin,” said Dr. Alexis.

It’s been a busy year for many anti-aging marketers, as companies roll out an array of new products. One of the busiest is StriVectin which, over a span of five months has introduced StriVectin-SD SPF 30 (February), StriVectin Neck Cream (April) and StriVectin-WF Instant Deep Wrinkle Filler (June). Why the multitude of launches?

“We work on product concepts for a very long time, and when we see a hole in the market, we try to fill it,” explained Gina Daines, director of marketing. “We saw a need for a neck and décolletage product, so we perfected it and it’s the best product on the market.”

According to Nathalie Chevreau, director of women’s health at StriVectin, the neck cream’s effectiveness can be attributed to a cocktail of ingredients that includes peptides, and plant and marine extracts. Within two hours of application, the product improved elasticity by more than 11%.

For even faster results, the Instant Deep Wrinkle Filler improved the appearance of wrinkles in just one hour—and the effect is still visible after four hours, according to Dr. Chevreau. The key ingredients in this fast-acting formula are botanical extracts.

More than Berry Extracts?

According to company founder Scott Vincent Borba, the peel treatment works with technology, not against it, to diffuse the flaws on the face. It’s the kind of technology that sets his company apart from others, said Mr. Borba.

“The future of the industry is more than just the next berry extract,” insisted Mr. Borba. “Products must address how the technologies out there are affecting skin.”

Mr. Geria observed that stem cells are the treatment du jour. But he warned that several issues still surround the technology. For example, although the majority of manufacturers say the products contain stem cells, the promotional marketing literature is vague enough that consumers could easily think they are applying highly powerful and potent cells to their skin, according to Mr. Geria.

“Stem cell research is in its infancy,” he noted. “Applying these stem cell based products daily on the skin and expecting them to generate instant skin benefits would be a lot to ask.”

Osmotics offers a range of products that contain the anti-aging benefits of Blue Copper. The newest is Osmotics Blue Copper 5 Lip & Tuck. This 3-in-1 lipgloss pen has moisturizing, anti-aging and plumping benefits. It contains homogenized hyaluronic acid to penetrate into the lip skin. It soothes with menthol and contains a unique tri-peptide that prevents the loss of collagen elasticity, keeping the lips and mouth area firm, tight and line free. The pen retails for $35 and is available at Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor and osmotics.com.

Lip & Tuck is new from Osmotics.

“Peptides are so big right now. They’re one of the great new classes of cosmeceutical ingredients,” insisted Francine Porter, founder and president of Osmotics.

Besides building collagen, Ms. Porter said peptides can quench free radicals, making Lip & Tuck an excellent product for cigarette smokers who often develop lines around their lips.

Beyond Wrinkles

Treating acne and reducing the appearance of wrinkles may take up much of a dermatologist’s day, but there is a growing demand for products that treat hyperpigmentation, especially among African-Americans. Mr. Geria noted that soy and kinetin have shown effectiveness in reducing hyper-pigmentary effects.

Dr. Alexis reports that dischromia is among the top three reasons why African-Americans seek a dermatologist. His preferred method of treatment is 4% hydroquinone.“It is the most effective treatment available—it’s the gold standard,” he said.

At the time, however, he noted that new skin-lightening ingredients, including licorice and mulberry extracts, and arbutin, show promise.

Although StriVectin has had success with its oligo-peptide formulas, Dr. Chevreau cautioned that skin is a very complex organ, one where collagen is just one part of the equation. For example the epidermal-dermal junction (EDJ) plays a critical role in maintaining skin. To restimulate this site in older skin requires targeting it with marine-based extracts. Although she would not confirm that StriVectin is targeting the EDJ in its research, she did agree that it is an excellent opportunity for skin care advances.

Mr. Borba expects his current research will pull the cosmetic industry into an entirely new arena—one that puts an emphasis on texture.

“This industry needs stimulation,” he explained. “We’re working on a whole new process that calls for new binders and polymers and that can work with the skin to help ‘melt’ the polymers on the skin.”

He describes his concept as a “cosmeceutical prosthetic,” and expects to have prototypes in six to eight months.

“The industry has never seen anything like this,” he insisted. “We want to rejuvenate skin, and make this ‘canvas’ flawless.”

Mr. Borba said the products will impart immediate effects and beneficial results with repeated use as well.

“Borba is looking to reinvent the skin care category,” he said. “Consumers are oversaturated with creams and lotions. They want a brand that they can trust, gives them great benefits and taps into their behaviors. What I’m doing right now will leapfrog what the dermatologists and even the pharmaceutical companies are doing,” he explained.

Dr. Perricone insisted that the future of skin care cannot be found in the acceleration of invasive treatments, injectible fillers, neurotoxins or radical surgery.

“Great breakthroughs are being made that introduce safe yet genuinely transformative methodologies that not only help restore damaged, aging skin to youthful suppleness, but reinvigorate the entire body,” he told Happi.

See the Light

His research over the years has also included the study of the therapeutic effects of visible non-laser light as well as rejuvenation of facial muscles with the use of pulsed electric current to the face.

Through decades of research, Dr. Perricone has found that the inflammation-aging connection is the single greatest precipitator of age-related diseases. During his HBA keynote, Dr. Perricone will illustrate the variety of factors that cause inflammation, including pro-inflammatory diets, the environment, immune system, ultraviolet light exposure, hormonal changes and stress. He will then demonstrate how diet, nutritional supplements and topical antioxidants can control inflammation and thereby delay and reverse the signs of aging.

Dr. Perricone will share his unique insight on a three-tier approach to creating vibrant skin and optimum health through diet, nutritional supplements and topical anti-inflammatories. All these work synergistically to decrease inflammation and thereby enhance the natural health and beauty of the skin.
More info: www.hbaexpo.com or call 212-600-3117.

“These treatments will restore and maintain the face in a remarkably youthful, wrinkle- and sag-free condition,” he explained.

Finally, Dr. Perricone advised that therapeutic LED light treatments in conjunction with the strengthening of muscles in the face, neck and eye area through electric current can achieve a youthfully contoured and lifted look to the face that is both natural and attractive.

With so many products and treatments to choose from, consumers often have a hard time finding the right product for their skin.

“People want answers to simple questions, like ‘What do I cleanse with?’ or ‘What do I moisturize with?’” noted Dr. Alexis.

He acknowledged that there is no one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to skin care, but he tells his patients to keep their regimens simple.

“Confusion on the part of the patient is an issue,” said Dr. Alexis. “And it’s going to get worse.”

Need a supplier for your new anti-aging product? Here's a list of them.

Active Ingredient Directory

Here is a list of suppliers of active ingredients to the cosmetic industry. For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.

ROVI Cosmetics International GmbH

Schlüchtern, Germany
Tel: +49 (0)6661-96760
Website: www.rovicosmetics.de
E-mail: info@rovicosmetics.de
Specialties: Rovi Cosmetics’ core competence lies within the development and production of carrier systems for dermal applications. We offer different technologies (e.g. Rovisomes, Cerasomes, OleoSpheres, LipoFuse) that increase the bioavailability and thus the efficacy of the contained actives in the skin. To substantiate our products’ efficiency and stability we co-developed special study methods with an independent institute. Our product range comprises carrier systems containing active compounds that target various cosmetic purposes and we are a competent and experienced partner for customized projects. Our products are available worldwide through a well-established network of distributors.