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Never mind. I changed my mind about using the Diesel radiator overflow tank and
washer reservoir. That overflow tank is huge! It must hold at least a gallon
of coolant. When I positioned the OF tank and reservoir on the bracket under
the hood to eyeball the fitment, I was aghast at the amount of space it
consumed.

This weekend, I decided to fab up a bracket to re-position the regular
OF/reservoir combo unit (D8BZ-17618-A) off the fender and rotated 90 degrees to
get it out of the way of the auxiliary battery w/out taking up the whole left
side inner fender. Took less than $3 of galvanized steel strip and four 5/16x1"
bolts and lock nuts.

Now, I just hope the dealer will take back that $86 worth of diesel OF tank and
washer reservoir I bought last Friday!

I'm about to buy new tires for my f150, which is my daily driver. I use
it for its truck-like abilities, but it's also my main transportation.

Current tires are shot (235/75r15), and i'm looking to install wider,
slightly lower profile tires. I have the optional 7.5 inch wide wheels.
So far, all i've heard is that a 255mm wide tire will fit- but this is
less than 1" wider than my current tires.

The question:

Those of you running wide tires on the same body style 2wd truck, what
size are you running, and have you had ANY problems with
rubbing/interference? Ideally, I'd like to go to a 275/60-15.

Thanks,

Derek Whiteside
derekw rocketmail.com
Albany, OR

ps: Cross-posted to perf-list and 80-96 list, so I apologize if any of
you receive this twice.

To prevent theft, I already have a hidden kill switch. The reason I wanted
to know is there are situtions I find where I would prefer to just simply
place my truck in neutral and start it. Thank for you the help, I now have
a small nylon strap rigged that I can pull and start and start it in
nuetral. Thanks for your help.---Nathan
________________________________________________________________________

Been following the TPS voltage thread and just wondering, how do you go
about setting the voltage? Learn something new every
day........................
Doc
Email webdoc arkansas.net
"Never knock on Death's door... ring the bell and run. He HATES that!"

I like the safety angle.... Clutch down is how I always start the engine,
anyway. However, one time, while off the road on a 4-wheeling trip, I drove
into what I thought was a shallow (couple of feet) of water to cross a small
stream, only to find a deep hole, and plop, down I went, and the water came
right up halfway to the windshield. The engine stopped. The spark plugs
were under water, the carb still out, but the engine would not restart. I
left the clutch up, put the trans in reverse low range, and backed out with
just the starter motor until the engine was out of the water. I would not
have been able to do that with one of the new "clutch-down" starting
systems.

I got mine from a place that specializes in truck parts and accessories.
"Monmouth Truck Center" if you're in New Jersey. Very knowledgeable, and
they do everything from wheels to dump beds to lifts. If you like I could
get the part numbers for you for those front springs, but know that what I
got are the heaviest available (within reason) for the 150, so don't expect
it to ride like a Caddy. It's smooth, but it's not soft.
As for the rear springs, I imagine most shops would be able to order
them for you. The replacement shouldn't be bad if it's anything like the
old Mustang I worked on. The biggest problem with the '66 was having to cut
the bolts that held the leaf springs in. (the bolts rusted and the rubber
dry-rotted to the shaft so I couldn't pull it through the hole) Granted,
the truck parts are a whole lot more heavy-duty, but things shouldn't be
rusted and gunked up too bad. Hit the bolts with some liquid wrench for a
week before you start the job and it should go smoothly.
Good luck with it!

Bob et al, thanks again for the suggestions, and the detailed code
description. Sorry about my delay here, but being on digest mode and
working late doesn't help.

Anyway, no time to check the codes again tonight, but today was occasional
OK running, but more low idle (stalling) or high idle periods. At least it
ran, which was better than last week.

I think I'll replace the TPS, and I'll let you know what happens. I thought
about trying to adjust it, but the screws are rusted and hard to get to. If
I'm going to all the trouble to remove the throttle, I'm going with a new
part. Hopefully that will be the end of it. Although that loss of tach
input code worries me.

I resealed the intake manifold this past fall, and I wish I could find the
gaskets I didn't use, like the one between the butterflies and the intake
runners. I have a feeling I may have tossed it. "I'm never going to need
that..." Oh well, cheap enough.

As for trying to check codes while running, I'm following the Haynes
procedure, which calls for running until warm, turn off engine, connect the
jumper between the self test input and the large test connector, and then
restart. I'm using an analog voltmeter to view the codes. I thought about
starting the engine and then connecting the jumper, but I was afraid I might
fry something, and it didn't seem important enough to take the chance.

Thanks again for your time everyone. Give me a few days to take care of
this, and I'll let you know how I make out.

which is better for hot bumper to bumper driving and some occasional
towing? a flex fan, heavy duty fan clutch, or take out the fan clutch
and use an adaptor to make the fan spin all the time? i noticed the
other day my temp started to raise over halfway up the gauge while in
traffic, and we haven't even had a 100 degree weather day yet! btw...
the radiator and water pump are brand new and i am using a 160 degree
stat. the coolant also only has about 3000 miles on it.

I would stick with a big clutch fan and a factory 190 thermostat. The 160 can sludge
that puppy up big time and my foul up the sensor array.

Mike

On Mon, 15 May 2000 22:51:13 -0500 (CDT), David Trowbridge wrote:

>which is better for hot bumper to bumper driving and some occasional
>towing? a flex fan, heavy duty fan clutch, or take out the fan clutch
>and use an adaptor to make the fan spin all the time? i noticed the
>other day my temp started to raise over halfway up the gauge while in
>traffic, and we haven't even had a 100 degree weather day yet! btw...
>the radiator and water pump are brand new and i am using a 160 degree
>stat. the coolant also only has about 3000 miles on it.
>
>David
>85 F-150 300 I6
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>

The TPS is secured by 2 bolts at the bottom of the Throttle body. The
mounting holes in the TPS can me wallowed out to allow for a different
resistance to be set, and so increase or decrease the voltage setting.

Bob

Travis Moore wrote:

> Been following the TPS voltage thread and just wondering, how do you go
> about setting the voltage? Learn something new every
> day........................
> Doc
> Email webdoc arkansas.net
> "Never knock on Death's door... ring the bell and run. He HATES that!"
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

<<
towing? a flex fan, heavy duty fan clutch, or take out the fan clutch
and use an adaptor to make the fan spin all the time?>>>

I'm a firm believer in throwing away the belt driven fan and shroud. Install
a quality electric fan setup, invest in a big tranny cooler (if you have an
automatic trans), and as Mike Persell suggested, put in the correct temp
thermostat (probably 195 degrees). My electric fan has been flawless in
keeping the temp gauge on my 351W right at the "R" in "NORMAL" for the last 6
years - summer and winter. (I've used this setup in several other vehicles
over the years with great success). And as added insurance, keep the outside
of the engine clean.
Just my 2 cents
Alex

> Wayne , I sent you an off-line message as requested , last week.Any news
on
> an owners manual for an 1981 F1504wd,300I6 swb,4speed.
>
> My e-mail is mosjmmgmossgas.co.za , in case it does not appear.
>
> Thanks
>
> James
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>
>

-snip-
>The coils cost
>$80, the alignment cost $75, and it'll take you about an hour per side once
>you have all your tools set up and a spring compressor handy. I used Pep
>Boys' free tool loaner program for the spring compressor, so that cost me
>the gas to get to the store and back.

I didn't need a spring compressor. I took the wheel off (obviously),
disconnected the shock at the bottom and then loosened the bolt in the
center of the spring and then pushed down on the axle assembly. The
spring will just come loose. Then take out the bold at the top and the
little bracket that holds the spring at the top and the spring will come
right out.

-snip-
>I am in the same boat with my '91, so I have a question for you and
>Ezekial. Where did you get the Moog springs? Pep Boys? The rear on
>mine is also drooping as a result of occasional waaaay overloading. Do
>they have relatively stock leaf springs as well, or should I get them
>from a lift-kit company?

I would just go to a junk yard and pick up a set off another truck that
doesn't look like its hauled or pulled much. Also try to get a set with
the towing package so that it will have at least one extra leaf.
Possibly might want to check into F-250 springs if you still carry lots
of weight... A lift company would also be an excellent choice. Be sure
to ask for the heavy duty springs and possibly get them like 1in higher
while your at it since you front will be higher too, you whole truck
would then be an inch higher. Altough your raked look would also come
back.. Oh well, just options..

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