Well, the barrel finally arrived! As I had ordered it chambered 20
thousandths deep, the only work required was to mount the barrel in the lathe
and trim the two torque shoulders to match the receiver. No chamber reamer is
needed! (And if your willing to use a selection of
new, unfired, cases as "GO" gauges, some more money can be saved)

After satisfying myself that the barrel chamber was concentric with the
outside, I mounted the barrel in a collet, in the lathe. I trimmed the end of
the barrel (the inner torque shoulder) until the "GO" gauge protruded
1 thousandths less than the receiver measurements,
then I trimmed the barrel at the second shoulder (where it get "fat"
ahead of the threads) so that the distance between the shoulders exactly
matched the receiver dimensions. For more instructions on this see THIS. The barrel was
fitted to the receiver and the chamber was tested with a "GO" gauge
and found to be OK.

Now that the barrel is installed the stock work begins. Let me say that I
come from a family of talented woodworkers and have escaped receiving any of
the woodworker genes J , in my
opinion, the wood is just a place to put Acra-Glas. I got a reject stock, I think from Richards MicroFit, 2 for $70, and hogged out the barrel channel with
a chain saw, and inletted the action with a Swiss
Army knife.

After inletting, I first installed a steel pillar in the rear screw hole for
the action. For details on this procedure check this out. I used Acra-Glas to
secure the pillar.

I bedded the recoil lug, receiver bottom and first 2 inches of barrel with
Steel-Bed. Notice the tape around the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug
and the heavy coat of release agent on the floorplate. For details look here.

Now do this a your own risk, for if your
"friends" find out they will make fun of your work! The hogged out
barrel channel allows a LOT of free float for the barrel, so much that it looks
bad to even me. So, on the bottom and sides of the barrel I laid strips of
masking tape, about four layers, then I wrapped the barrel with wide electricians tape, coated it with release agent, installed
it in the stock, and filled the gap between the, now fat barrel and the stock
with Acra-Glas. A clay dam is laid at the very end of
the barrel channel, and the stock is mounted so the side of the barrel channel
is level, The Glas was poured in and worked around to
"wet' the channel, the barreled action was installed, and the Glas was poured in until the stock was plumb full! I have
in the past dropped one or two pieces of steel drill or welding rod into the
channel as reinforcing, but did not do that this time.