My Truck doesn't start, no crank

I can only start My truck when I jump start it from the starter solenoid with a screw driver. Other than that when I put my key in the ignition, everything comes on even the chimes still it won't turn over or crank. engine runs fine when I jump start the Starter solenoid

70 Answers

There is probably not voltage getting thew to the small wire on the solenoid on the fender. Last one I worked on it was the neutral safety switch. But it could be the ignition switch also. Just have to do some checking.

Thanks
Seen that wire. I had some reserve about changing the ignition switch, If I am not messing with the tumbler, would I still need to re-program my key? I'll start with the small wire and trace it from there to see if I have a break some where then I'll switch out the neutral switch and If I don't have to re-program the key, then the Ignition Switch, I'll let you know what happens. Again thanks for the response

Howzit OJ
No my solenoid relay is on my fire wall, just bought a brand new one and installed it 2 days ago. However maybe I have been using the wrong word to describe it , I've been calling it a starter solenoid and others have been calling it solenoid relay or starter relay but I have a picture of it. Maybe my solenoid is on the fender wall like you said

Thats the small wire I was referring to, check to see if 12V is at that wire when the key is turned to the start position. I guess the parts stores call that the starter relay. There is also the one in the fuse box.

You indicated you can jump the solenoid relay with a screwdriver
and the vehicle will start. Well, that would indicate the starter is
good. If, as Rowenfast posted, check for 12 volts at the small
wire on the relay when someone turns the ignition to the start
position. I would suspect there will not be twelve volts present.
Meaning the secondary circuit (electromagnet) within solenoid
relay is not being energized to close the circuit allowing the
voltage to pass through down to the starter. If that is the case,
begin back-tracking the small wire to find a short, broken wire,
etc.

Okay guys I changed out the ignition switch and that wasn't the problem. I bought a multi meter and a test light then realized, I am embarrassed to say that I don't know how to use it. Maybe my question should be how to use a multimeter

OK. Remove the small wire from the solenoid relay on the
firewall. Set the meter to DC volts. Stick the red wire from the
meter into the female slot on the wire you disconnected. Ground
the black wire. Have someone turn the ignition to start. Check
the meter, it should read 12 volts. If you do not get voltage, the
relay will not work. It is nothing more than an electro magnet
which switches a high amperage circuit with a low amperage
switch. If you are getting 12 volts, then the problem has to be
with the relay. The net will show you how to check the relay.

Checking relays is simple, most relays have the pins numbered
right next to it. They are all numbered the same from brand to
brand. Check out the video on how to check one, it's wordy to type
out, and a video would probably be two minutes, with pictures and
movies to boot.

Howzit gang. Okay I tested the little wire
with the test light and the light went on.
Then I put the multimeter on. Red in the
female black on the fire wall at 20 VDC
then at 200 VDc no movement. So I am
now going to change the neutral switch.
Would that be the next step?

Something is not making sense here...you jump the relay on the fender well between the two big post and the starter works. You have tested for voltage on the small wire and there is. That starter should work. Question...when you turn the key to start, do you hear the relay on the fender well? The problem has to be from that point forward. Something not allowing power to, or at the starter. So I suggest for the day to take out the starter and clean up the mounting surfaces for the starter. I have seen Fords do this, not all the time but it does happen where the grounding of the starter is not good. Also clean up both ends of the battery cables, and any other ground wires in that area.

As rowenfast stated, something not making sense. If you can
jump the relay on the fender, then the starter is good. If you
have voltage at the signal wire (small) but it does not operate the
solenoid, it would indicate the solenoid relay is bad, it's just a
switch. All I can think of is the solenoid grounds itself to the
fender well via the mounting bolts. Check the ground.

Let's narrow this thing down. Take a piece of romex wire and run
it from the positive side of the battery to the small post on relay
you pictured. Touch it for just a second with the key in the
ignition in the "on" position. If the engine turns, the solenoid
relay is good and the problem is between the electrical signal
wire and the ignition key.

You know you may be on to something here on that relay not having a good ground to the fender wall. There would be no circuit for the contact to activate to come up to make contact inside to the two big post. There is a coil in there to energize to pull up the contact to the two post. There are only power lines running to that relay, the only ground is when you bolt it onto the fender well. Try cleaning up the fender well and the mounting surface where the bolts go threw.

Sorry guys just got back there is no voltage
coming out of the little wire again. It has become
intermittent. So I started to check other wires
like that on the truck and my test light didn't go
on as well. I've been tracing that little wire to the
ignition switch to the ignition switch.. gave up at
about 1 Am. Gonna go at it again. I somehow
lost power to my power windows. Just bought a
brand new battery. Maybe it's because I took off
the ignition switch when I was tracing that small
wire

Fyi. When I tested the lower bolt on the solenoid
with the test light, the light turns on. When I test
the upper bolt no light. I also tested the mounting
bolts. No light also. Going to clean the firewall
where the bolts are mounted too.

Check this out guys. Next to my ignition
switch, I have some sort of device that
looks like a GPS. Its called a PTE-2 pass
time. Now I traced that little wire to the
fuse box. From the fusebox to the ignition
switch should be a red and light blue wire
which I found in the cabin but not
connected. It was cut and capped. Now
that same colored wire is coming out of
the ignition switch and spliced into a blue
wire which is connected to the device.
Should I cut that wire? And splice it to the
other wire that is capped? I am no
electrician but I think this might do it.
Thoughts

Boy, this is hard to answer for me, why is that there? Did someone install that? And what is a PTE-2, what is it for? And had the vehicle ben running with this device? You must be pretty familiar with the wiring by now, maybe look up a wiring diagram for the ignition switch? And are there any other wires running to this PTE-2 other than that blue wire connected to the red & blue wire? questions, questions questions....

A PTE-2 is a GPS devise used by auto dealers, places like Hertz
Car Rental, and lenders to locate vehicles. It can probably kill the
engine and be rendered inoperable is things like monthly car
payments are not made. Check the net, you'll probably find a more
complete explanation.

OJ Yes that's exactly what it is, It disabled my truck, When I got this truck which by the way I only paid $125.00 from an auction, the only problem it had was that I needed to change the steering column and get it started, initially I thought it was a steal. So 3 months later and $800.00. Come to find out this is what has been disabling my truck. So I believe I have to go see a locksmith or something to get the codes. I tried reconnecting the the wires but that didn't work. gonna surf the net and see what I come up with. Hey at least I got brand new parts for the truck. LOL

@ Rowefast Yes there are other wires running thru it. but I just cut the blue wire and reconnected it to the starter wire, but apparently after research I didn't need to do that. Jumped the gun on that one

Howzit Gang. Okay This is an update so far. The little wire that had no power, now has power surging through. However not the 12v that I needed but there is life in that wire. My truck still doesn't crank but it clicks and makes some kind of noise. never did that before. when I tried to jumpstart it from the starter solenoid(Relay) it wouldn't start. Had to charge from another battery. but it's clicking now.
I don't know if that's a good sign. The neutral switch is in park, ignition switch looks good, it's brand new. so do you guys think it's the wiring? I connected the same color wires coming wire from the wire cluster to the wires coming from the ignition switch.

If the solenoid relay is clicking, usually that is a sign the battery is
weak. When you jumped the solenoid did the engine crank as it
suppose to, just not start? Or did it crank slowly? If slowly,
again, it could be a weak battery. By cranking, I mean the
engine turns via the starter. Is the solenoid relay new? If not,
check the .net on how to check a Ford relay.

Hey guys check this out. I had power to
that little wire (starter wire) I found out the
name of the wire. I disconnected the
neutral switch and no power to the starter
power. So I know now that there is no
broken connection between the starter
solenoid and the neutral switch. So I went
to start the engine and lost power. And
what could be the problem?

Did you attempt what I suggested? Run a wire from the positive
side of a good battery to the post where the small wire attaches
to the solenoid relay. After connecting the wire to the battery,
just touch the other end of the wire to the solenoid relay post for
a second and the starter should work. If the battery is good, and
all you get is a clicking noise from the relay, then the relay is
defective or not grounded properly.

No I haven't, Does it need to be a romex wire? or it doesn't matter what type of wire?. If it has to be a romex wire then I go get one after work and try it. The Battery is brand new just purchased it last week.. But First thing when I get home I'll do that. Thanks Brother

Don't use some light wire light speaker wire of 22 gauge of
something like that. A long enough piece of 12 gauge wire will
work. Pick up a few feet at the local hardware store. Probably
about thirty cents a foot.

Hey, we know that big heavy wire that runs from the relay to the starter works as jahmen jumped between the two big post on the relay...one big wire runs from the battery to the relay, the other big wire runs down to the starter. I thought you were going to run the power from the battery to the small wire location to see if it works. The small wire runs from the ignition switch to the relay...unless I am missing something...

I jumped the battery from another car and the
truck starts, I let it run for about 15 mind shut it
off and it started again. Chheeeeehuuu.
@OJ@Rowefast. Couldn't have done it without
you guys. Thank you Big time
Much Alohs

So far so good, I hope this stays this way. Doesn't sound like you are out of the woods yet tho. 5 min. of clicking from the fuse box, that should not happen when the key is in the off position. And you can't have the battery draining, indicates a parasitic draw on the battery. Is the battery in good shape? At least you are making progress...

The clicking noise could possibly be the AC vent door actuator
located under the dash. Fords are notorious for having those
things go out, and they make a clicking noise. But it should not
be powered once the key is off. Since you have a multi-meter,
checking for the parasitic draw is quite simple in locating the
offending circuit. Check for videos on the net.

Keep in mind, if there is a parasitic draw, depending on the
offending circuit and the power which is being drawn, that could be
your entire problem with the no start condition. We now know
everything is good from relay to the starter.

Will do.MY truck now starts on it's own. However
the Horn is out. Got no power to the Horn. Fuses
and relays are good although, my Air bag light is
blinking. Would that be an indicator to change
my clock spring?

A blinking air-bag light is usually an indication a sensor
associated with the mechanism is out, not receiving power, or the
signal portion of the circuit is out. I would suspect the power end
as there seems to be a lot of electrical distribution problems with
the vehicle. Check around the vehicle and under the dash for
blind electrician work which may have been performed by the
previous owner. A complete schematic of the electrical wiring for
the vehicle, to include color coded wire, would probably be
helpful to you in the future.

Howzit OJ, My engine runs cherry. Went around my truck to look for electrical issues. I believe now that the last thing I need to do is to change my Fuel Pump. My truck died out and would just crank but no turn over. When I hit the gas tank it turned over, only once. So I am assuming it is the Fuel pump. I had someone turn the key to on and didn't hear the whrrring sound in the tank. On another note. In my passenger side kick panel there is an inertia switch I believe that's what it's called, Anyways there is a button on the top of that switch to reset something maybe the pump. The switch is pressed in therefore cannot be pressed or is that what it supposed to be in the down position. Just wondering

The switch you are speaking of is to stop the flow of gasoline to
the engine in the event of a crash. It usually pops out when
defective and usually stays pushed in when ok.. It can be
bypassed like any other switch. Before you begin spending
money on a fuel pump and going through the hassle of removing
the fuel tank, invest in a twenty buck fuel pressure gauge and
check the pressure from right under the hood. There is a valve
in a convenient place just for that purpose.

Thanks OJ.
I'll go and do that, If I am not Mistaken I thing I seen A valve stem looking thing on my fuel rail. I believe they call it a Schrader valve. it was supposed to have a cap on it but it did not. but yes I'll do that

Hey everyone... K. Hill here...im having almost
identical problems with my 99 f150 as above. .first
things first, im no mechanic! Lol...im a mom trying
to get things done. Before I go into a lengthy
explanation of what im dealing with, i would like to
know if the picture above is accurate? Or, should the
large wire from my firewall go to the top post and
the large wire to my altenator be attached to my
bottom post? I dont have a hanes book, and the
dealorship hasnt contacted me back yet so that i
may check the wiring

If you are hearing a clicking behind your fuse box on drivers side of the dash on your 1998 f-150 then chances are that you need a replacement Body Control Module. If you go to the salvage yard they run about 30 dollars. Be advised there are 2 different ones. One for 2 wheel drive and one for 4 wheel drive. I would advise you to get one from the salvage yard due to the fact that if it isn't the problem you are only out around 30 dollars and places like Oriellys and Auto Zone wont give refunds on electrical parts. Not to mention the cost of a remanufactured one from them run around 140 to 250 each.

I gotta ask what is that thing where the
vaccum line connector that has the 2 inside
diameter connector that's under neath the
battery in the picture
calledhttps://static5.cargurus.com/images/s
ite/2016/03/15/13/49/pic-
1338100967203355637-200x200.jpeg

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I can only start My truck when I jump start it from the starter solenoid with a screw driver. Other than that when I put my key in the ignition, everything comes on even the chimes still it won't turn...

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