Thanks for the heads up on 3Ms #77 limitations. So far I have only done the
two doors. I will start on the rest of the car soon. I can probably talk my
upholsterer out of a bit of his spray adhesive. Can I clean the stuff out of
my touch up gun easily? For those who wish to use a rattle can could you
suggest some superior alternatives to #77.

Dave

I totally agree that 3-M 77 is not very good. Vince is right about the DAP Weldwood Landau Top and Trim adhesive, it is great stuff. It comes in aerosol cans also, but remember, it has to be a somewhat different formula to be able to atomize enough to come out of a spray can. If you can get a cheap spray gun with a large nozzle, spraying with DAP spray grade is the way to go. The main thing to remember when spraying this stuff is to make sure it's at least 70 degrees. It sprays very well then. If you really want to use a spray can, try this stuff: http://www.yourautotrim.com/perhittrimad.html It's reasonably priced and works very well.

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I just got my shipment of micro-spheres this morning. Man o man - are they tiny. Dust mask for sure - good one - when mixing. I think they were generous with their measure and might have a 'gallon' of them left over which I'll eventually post here for sale. Lots to do before then though

For cleaning the DAP adhesive from your spray gun I have found lacquer thinner and acetone will not do a very good job. Xylol which is avaiable at Lowes or hardware stores is a much better solvent for cleaning.

For cleaning the DAP adhesive from your spray gun I have found lacquer thinner and acetone will not do a very good job. Xylol which is avaiable at Lowes or hardware stores is a much better solvent for cleaning.

Vince

If Xylol is mineral spirits, you're right on the money. The DAP can says to clean up " tools, equipment, and spillage" with mineral spirits, which works beautifully.

__________________
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No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will.
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My car is epoxy primered everywhere inside. Which paint is best to use with the micro ball, that won't require the epoxy to be scuffed? Thinking the elastomeric roofing, or exterior latex, as flexibility should be a plus.
Any do's or don'ts over epoxy?

Use a high grade of exterior latex house paint. Make sure the epoxy is free of any oil residue. No prep of the epoxy is needed other than it being clean.

Vince

I ended up having Lowe's color match some flat exterior latex Valspar (HOK is owned by Valspar). The guy that did it thought that I had lost my head with the screamin' orange color until I explained what it was for. This is going over SPI epoxy primer that I intentionally painted on rough.

I just got my additive for paint. I ordered the 1 Gal package and got 1 Quart of material. This surprised me since I thought I would get a gal of material when odering a 1 gal package. I called them to ask about this discrepancy. The manager said it was not his fault that I did not read on the web site that it is to be mixed one part ceramic material to 4 parts paint and interpret the 1 gal to really mean 1 quart. After paying $12.83 for shipping this stuff and it taking 10 days to get it, I am a little disappointed since I now may not have enough to do my truck. The cost is not bad but this verbage misrepresents their product. Shipping cost are outrageous for 1 quart of ceramic material.

What brand of microspere did you end up using and how much did it cost. keep us up to date on the project Ed

Quote:

Originally Posted by 38Dodgebiz

So I went ahead and did this on my '38 Dodge - I'm way overdue on my project update.

After stripping the floor clean, I coated the steel floor with a brushed coat of POR15 I had left over from another project.

After drying a day or two, I seam sealed all the seams in the floor and firewall areas with an automotive seam and joint sealer.

I let this set up another day or two and then sprayed the alchohol based zinser primer on. The gal at Home Depot tinted the primer and the Henry's elastomeric roofing compound for me (blue).

I ended up mixing to a ratio of about 2.5 gallons of elastomeric compound (Henry's) to 2 gallons of microspheres. After seeing how thick the mixture was, I decided to roll it on which worked very well. I used a brush for tight spots and a smaller roller where I could fit it inside the doors. I spent several days applying a number of coats - probably about 5 coats which is likely more than required. I have since let the concoction sit a few weeks and I am now beginning to wire the car.

The result is a tough, almost bedliner type of coating that has taken the "ring" out of the car when you tap on the steel. My '38 Dodge is all steel. I even coated the inside of the roof, doors, etc... Basically, anywhere I could fit the roller or a brush I applied the material and the amount I mixed was enough for any medium to large interior. I will probably half the recipe for my other project (a '69 vette coupe).

I still plan to use additional insulation (peel and stick) and expect the ride to be cool and quiet (except for my exhaust).

I'll estimate the total cost for the project at about $125 which included an extra 5 gal. bucket, rollers/frames, a cheap brush, 2 tubes of seam sealer, 1 quart of Zinser (alchohol based), 2 gallons of microsheres from Wickes and 5 gal. of Henry Elastomeric roof sealer. I only used half of the Henry's, so I have some material left over for the next project.

Here are some pics:

After priming with Zinser - I sprayed this and used close to a full quart - I made cardboard cutouts to put in all the windows before spraying

The materials for the "Homemede Lizard Skin" - I discarded the rollers/frames and bucket at the end of the job

Mixing - take your time - please wear a mask!!! I still have a way to go at this point - should be uniform in consitency and color when ready - like a thick pancake batter

after about 3 coats - I kept going over and over the floor and firewall where much of the thermal benefit will be realized

Wondering what you think. I worked as a maintenance man for a local industry for several years and we created our own concoction for making a durable slip resistance high build surface (And rust resistant) for our production crew. So they wouldn't fall into the conveyor system. Remember....this was to be as cheap as possible.

We used a 50/50 mixture of an oil based enamel and latex enamel with a mixture of sand (which I would think could be substituted for the micro balloons). I don't know the hows or whys, but when mixed like this...it would cure into a product similar to the rubberized bed liners (maybe not as durable but lasted a long time non the less, and with a rubbery finish).

I'm just curious....why all of the steps? Why wouldn't everyone use a single stage (like high build primer/micro balloons) and skip the extra step of adding the latex/micro balloons over epoxy. I'm not being critical. Just curious.

(And rust resistant) for our production crew. So they wouldn't fall into the conveyor system. Remember....this was to be as cheap as possible.
We used a 50/50 mixture of an oil based enamel and latex enamel with a mixture of sand (which I would think could be substituted for the micro balloons). Dave

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