A Very Versatile Cru Beaujolais

Château de Pizay Morgon 2009

Recently, I had a friend in from out of town who is a real “foodie.” She was hungry to go out for a meal on a cold and windswept night and was pining for a visit to one of the best restaurants in my Forest Hills, Queens, neighborhood—Danny Brown Wine Bar & Kitchen. After a long day tasting in the office, I was ready for some hearty fare as well. So we donned our coats and scarves and walked down to see what was cooking.

We quickly ordered a charcuterie plate of Serrano ham, bresaola and country pâté and a bottling from Beaujolais' excellent 2009 vintage, from the Morgon appellation, one of the region’s 10 crus, known for higher-quality Beaujolais. The waitress asked if I wanted this red slightly chilled, and I demurred before she recommended cellar temperature. Bingo. This was just the ticket to let the intense cherry, raspberry and red plum flavors of this fresh, juicy, medium-bodied red to shine through.

With an intense ruby color, perfumed aroma and gentle tannins, the Château de Pizay Morgon was a refreshing quaff. We sipped it through the appetizer, and it was a fine match for my hanger steak and crisp frites as well as for the succulent organic chicken “under a brick” that my dinner mate ordered. At $33 on the list, this wine was value-priced as well as versatile. I rated it 87 points, non-blind.