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Topic: So You Want To Cut A Box Joint! (Read 31053 times)

Making a box joint jig is a fairly simple operation, just be careful to pay attention to all of your measurements and will do just fine!

The jig consists of two parts,the first part is a miter guage extention which supports the work piece, and keeps your fingers away from the blade. This part is attached to your table saws miter gauge ( that half round thingy that slides in the notch in the table ). The second part is the key/tenon, which sets the spacing between dados, and the width of the box joint tenons.

Let's make the jig!

1. Cut a straight piece of 2x6 30" long. The 2x6 is the miter gauge extension.

2. Measure from one end, along the miter gauge extension 13", and make a mark.

3. Install a dado blade on your table saw and set it to the width you want for the box joint tenons. As a general rule, the tenons are the same width as the thickness of the stock you are joining. ie. If you are using 3/4" boards, set your dado blade to 3/4" width.

Note: Tenons are the spaces between the "teeth" of your box joint.

4. Set the dado blade height. Set the blade 1/32" to 3/32" higher than the stock thickness. For a 3/4" board that would be 13/32" to 15/32".THIS STEP ASSUMES THAT YOU ARE CUTTING YOUR BOARDS A "SMIDGEN" OVER THEIR PROSCRIBED LENGTH AS DIRECTED IN THE BEESOURCE.COM PLANS. Remember when you set the dado height up by 1/32" this makes the inside dimention of the box closer by 1/16" ( a 32nd on each side ). I cut my boards to 19 15/16" instead of 19 7/8" and set my dado blade up 1/32" higher that the 3/4" height. This made my inside dimension come out to 18 3/8" just where it should be!

The reason for giving yourself the extra length is to allow yourself some wiggle room. Remember, it's always easier to cut more off, than it is to add it back on!

5. Align the mark on the miter gauge extension with the center of the dado blade and cut. The dado you make with this cut holds the key in place.

6. Align the miter gauge extension with the blade for a second cut. Set up the second cut so the distance between each dado is exactly the same as the width of the dados. ie. For a 3/4" board make the distance between dados 3/4". You have to be pretty exact here because the space you leave here is going to create the "teeth" in the box joint. And if the space is wrong, and the "teeth" are too big ( wide ) then they won't fit into the corresponding dado ( space ).

7. Cut a block of wood 6" long and the same height and width as the dados ( 3/4" x 3/4" ). The block is the key in your jig. Secure the key into the first dado with a countersunk screw ( one set below the surface of the wood ). Don't glue the key in place, or you won't be able to replace it if it becomes worn or broken. I like to use hardwood here because it it doesn't get worn or dented as easily as pine. Mine in the picture is oak.

8. With the saw unplugged, align the second dado with the dado blade and secure the miter gauge extention to the saw's miter gauge. I just ran two drywall screws through the two holes in the miter gauge, and into the back of the extention.

There now, that wasn't so hard was it? Once the jig is made, the most difficult part is behind you. However, you should practice making joints in scrap before you begin on your project pieces. Always make a test joint each time you reassemble the extension to the miter gauge. Remember, if you aren't testing on scrap, you're testing on your project!

Let's make a box joint!

1. Stand the work piece on end, flat against the extension, with one edge butted against the key.

2. Hold the work piece firmly against the extension and make the first dado in the work piece. Make a small X on the tenon created by this dado.

3. Reset the jig ( pull it back toward you over the blade ) and place the dado over the key. Make a second cut.Continue cutting dados untill you run out of board.

4. Cut dados in the second work piece. The second work piece should mate to the first, so the dados must be offset from those on the first work piece.Place the first work piece over the key with one full tenon ( the one marked with an X from step 2 ) between the key and the blade. Butt the second work piece against the first one and make the first dado in the second work piece.

5. Remove the first work piece from the jig and continue making dados until you run out of board.

6. Glue and clamp the pieces together to make the box joint, if you want, finish with nails.

If you use nails, predrill the holes. If you use polyurethane glue, like GORILLA glue, you probably don't need nails. Don't forget to cut your rabbets for the frames, in the ends first though. The rabbets are much easier to cut BEFORE assembly.

7. Since the dado blade height was set slightly deeper than the width of the stock, you should sand the raised end of the joint flush with the face of the board to which it is joined. Or, if you don't want to, forget it. The bees won't mind.

If you have any questions about this proceedure, don't hesitate to PM me. I'm only too willing to explain myself! :lol:

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By the rude bridge that arched the floodTheir flag to Aprils breeze unfurledHere once the embattled farmers stoodAnd fired the shot heard round the world-Emerson

A "2X6" is a board that is 1 and 1/2 inch thick and 6 inches wide(I think it's 6 inches...it may be 5 and 1/2). The 30" after it stands for 30 inces long. It's called a 2x6 because, you are paying for a board milled from 2 inches thick.

Table saws,Dado heads, router jigs/accessories and sanders here: <link>harborfreight.com One of my favorite places to shop :DAlso see: <link>northerntool.com Both of these guys send out large paper catalog if you prefer.

It does take some time to get the offset, bit depth, and guide rail set correctly, but then you can fly thru cutting the joints. With four passes of a router, your box is done. I only use mine for supers, so it stays setup and the only thing I have to mess with is the router bit depth.

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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison

Now how much metal do you take out when you hit the bit on the jig guide? Or is that not as easy to do as it looks?

Well, the jig is made of aluminum just in case. I have never hit it. I place the router on the jig/board before I turn it on, and pull it straight out when done cutting and set it on the bench while it winds down. I'm sure you can easily get metal if you spin it up before putting the router on the board/jig. Just like most wood working tools, you need some common sense and focus on the job at hand.

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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison

If you want to make a cheap box joint jig that doesn't need adjustment, construct a sled.Here's how:http://nordykebeefarm.com/forum/default.aspWhen you get ready to make a box joint, just place the sled in the miter gauge slots and off you go. No setup!

If you want to make a cheap box joint jig that doesn't need adjustment, construct a sled.Here's how:http://nordykebeefarm.com/forum/default.aspWhen you get ready to make a box joint, just place the sled in the miter gauge slots and off you go. No setup!

Perhaps a direct link to the box joints would be more appropriate than a link to the front end of another forum.

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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison

I've tried using a direct link and some of the guys complain they can't open the pictures. This is the only way I get no complaints. I don't own the site. The owner asked me to moderate it for him and I post my construction projects there that I think will help fellow beekeepers.

I am not passing links to another "forum" as a forum, but as a location for information. If you will look, there is some feedback, but not a lot. I don't discourage it on that site, but I mainly look for interaction on three other sites; Beemaster, Beesource and Beeworks. If a person does register on the site they have the option of being notified of any updates as they happen. There has been one this year. Last year my son and I started raising queens. We developed a mating nuc that costs $1 per box. The guys wanted me to post it last year, but I begged off until we had a chance to try it out first. I posted the information on this last month.

There are different ways to make box joints. The most common is to use the miter gauge with a block attached. After using this method for many years (since 1968), I found a better way to do it (1997) and I would like to pass it on so others don't make the same mistake I did. If someone has a better method than this one, I would like to hear it. With this fixture, there is no setup. It is dedicated to this one operation. Just put it in the slots and start cutting perfect joints.

I have a dovetail fixture and use it for other purposes, but this box joint fixture is the only one I use for beehives.

I've tried using a direct link and some of the guys complain they can't open the pictures. This is the only way I get no complaints.

So... I guess you don't want to hear me say... I can't see any pics on there! Sorry mate. Not sure if they disappeared with the sony image server shutdown or what. And that's not good because I can't see any of the jig pictures on here either, and I am very curious about this table-saw jig.

Looking at that pic, I don't understand how that works. I mean, I can see how it would hold the wood steady for the cut, but I don't see how it precisely measures out the distance between the cuts so that they'll line up with the second piece.

There is an adjustable key that the previous cut rides on. It takes some adjusting at first, but once you get it adjusted and locked your good to go. I don't use it anymore as I've found the half-blind dovetails with the router and jig are much quicker. I can do one joint (ends of both boards) in one pass.

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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison

Well I created a schematic for a table saw box joint jig that seems like it would be cheaper and easier to build and use than any of these others that are selling the plans to them. I was going to upload it, but photobucket keeps failing to upload it, and websense won't let me upload it directly to the forum... so you're out of luck at least until I make it and take some pics. I think I'll make it tomorrow, if not Monday at the latest.

The dadant mediums are 6 and 5/8ths inches deep... so my problem is this, the largest size dado that will divide that size up evenly, is 1.8th inch. But that would require 53 cuts per joint. That just seems insane to me. You suggest using a 3/4 inch dado, but that leaves an extra bit on either end of the joint... how do you deal with that?

Well, my one problem with doing it the other way, is that most dado's I see only go up to 13/16ths, so they won't cut a 7/8th's.

Here are some pictures of the box joint jig, it's basically complete, but before I could make the dado blade cut to measure out the block, I found out that the dado blade I bought won't fit my table saw, so I'll have to exchange it tomorrow. So anyway, here it is basically ready to go. You can see the board that clamps down on the piece being cut, on the other side there's some wingnuts I just have to turn each of the 4 twice and it locks in the pieces so tight a sledge hammer couldn't budge them. Also, there's enough room up front to cut two at once. (the board that's in there now, is just a test piece of wood by the way)

Here's the best part of my setup... I put these railings on the bottom to fit into the mitre slots on the table, so they let me slide it forward and back without ever having to worry about getting a diagonal cut like you do if you're just holding to the mitre thing.

Well, my one problem with doing it the other way, is that most dado's I see only go up to 13/16ths, so they won't cut a 7/8th's.

The Freud 8" goes up to 7/8th with the shims.

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You can see the board that clamps down on the piece being cut, on the other side there's some wingnuts I just have to turn each of the 4 twice and it locks in the pieces so tight a sledge hammer couldn't budge them. Also, there's enough room up front to cut two at once. (the board that's in there now, is just a test piece of wood by the way)

That will surely hold it, but I think it will be a pain in the butt and very time consuming. Even if you go for 7 dadoes and can do 2 boards at a time, your looking at 56 wing nuts per box :shock:

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Here's the best part of my setup... I put these railings on the bottom to fit into the mitre slots on the table, so they let me slide it forward and back without ever having to worry about getting a diagonal cut like you do if you're just holding to the mitre thing.

All the jigs I have seen use this method, it works well as long as your mitre slots are true.

I can't tell by the photos, but I assume the pin is changeable for different size dadoes? Do you have any micro adjustment of the pin?

Here are some photos of mine. (Had to blow the dust off of it since I don't remember the last time I used it :-D)

Front side with replaceable backing insert

Micro adjustment of pin

Pins for different sized dadoes

I don't use mine anymore because I've found that the locking mitre holds up better as there is no end grains exposed and is less time consuming to do.

And the half blind dove tail holds up just as good as is super quick to do (only 4 passes per box) :-D

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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison