Reply to Thread

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

08-17-2011 11:27 PM

oldred

Yes I have the old version and after reading the advice given here today I went back and tried a few things, sure enough there is some improvement but still a lot to be desired. I understand drill point geometry and have been sharpening bits for years freehand by using a good grinder and a point gauge, as I said earlier I still prefer this method for bits over 1/4" but much smaller than that can be hit or miss. In any case I have the darn thing and it would be a neat tool for any bit if I can get it to work properly.

Truth of the matter is I am finding myself needing a magnifier these days to see what I am doing when sharpening any bit , so it would be nice if it can be made to work.

08-17-2011 10:08 PM

timothale

drill doctor.

I had a problem when one of the iron workers tried to use mine. and had the chuck come apart. I was at a show and the rep showed me how to put my old one back together. I have sharpened hundreds of bits with It. When we built a 40 X 120 , 16 ft sides metal building I kept the iron workers in sharp bits and they were very happy. For large drill bits I use an old general sharpener against a 10 inch sanding dist on my combination 6 X 48 belt sander disc combo tool, then manually cut the back relief on the belt sander.

08-17-2011 08:29 PM

Irelands child

That's fine - if you have a newer version. Unfortunately what Oldred is describing is on an older version which doesn't have the adjustable settings like that - or at least mine doesn't at about the same 10 year old age. Everything beyond the built in setting is a guestimate with the older version

08-17-2011 07:14 PM

DrillDoctor

Hope We can Help!

Hey There,

I am the Director of Marketing here at Drill Doctor, we try and monitor discussions about our products, and I became aware of this one. I don't mean to put my nose into your discussion, but think I might be able to help. We have shot a video that discusses negative relief that might help you can view it here:

However, it sounds like the video might not cover the issue you are having. We are here to help! you can contact us through our website, or call tech support at 1-800-418-1439 and we will diagnose the problem. We are just a small family owned business here in Oregon and stand behind our products so please don't hesitate to reach out so we can help.

Thanks for letting me barge in.

Matthew

08-17-2011 01:08 PM

unix

Yes leave the bit loose, loose enough to rotate so that the fingers can grab it, position it and draw it to the stop. Then tighten collect. Great tool easy to use, mindless really.

08-17-2011 12:59 PM

327NUT

Don't feel bad, I borrowed a "Drill Doctor" and had the same experience. Maybe I'm just really stupid but the directions were worthless to me also. After a couple of drills I took a deep breath and gave it back to my friend......who couldn't use it either.

08-17-2011 12:55 PM

Irelands child

Aren't they FUN!!

I had about the same problem but after trial and error "figured out" a little trick.

Since all drills are not the same as far as spiral, you have to juggle the settings when those two adjusting fingers move in to the cutout/spiral. Holding the drill bit after doing the initial setting and just snugging the collet down, rotate the bit as you look at the non cutting end. Go a degree or two by guess clock wise. What that does is move the drill heel to a negative angle against the sharpening wheel and therefore lower then the cutting edge. I only give the point a thinning cut (split point) if it's 135* and 3/8" or larger - but that's an eyeball cut and usually wont be worth a dam' as it's usually inconsistent, side to side. IMO.

And as always, it works for me and am happy with my 'gadget'

Dave W

08-17-2011 10:59 AM

oldred

Drill Doctor

I have a new/old Drill Doctor (750), I say new/old because it's new from lack of use but about 10 years old-that's how long it's been gathering dust in my shop. I can't get the thing to work, I watched the "how-to" video that came with it and that thing is just a joke, I have tried every setting it has but so far it's been useless. If I grind a bit so that the point is right the relief will be wrong, grind it so the relief is right and the point won't cut. It will grind a good cutting edge with the proper relief that will drill like a new bit IF there is a small pilot hole drilled first but if the point is ground correctly there is not enough relief for it to drill properly and the bit will get hot. I have for many years sharpened bits by hand and actually prefer this method on 1/4" or larger but anything smaller is more a matter of luck than anything else, besides if I could get it to work properly it would be a neat tool to have. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated but at this point I am considering a big hammer and a trash can!