Photos: What to Do in Pittsburgh

Click to view slideshow

THIS IS ONE RUST BELT town that's gotten a polish. After decades of losing jobs and residents, Pittsburgh has become a standard-bearer for urban revitalization.

Joining its distinctive, bridge-studded skyline are ambitious buildings like the modernist Tower at PNC Plaza, expected to open in 2015 as the world's greenest skyscraper, and the Gardens at Market Square, a $90 million high-rise. Downtown is undergoing a gold rush, with old factories and closed department stores being converted rapid-fire into apartments and spaces for new businesses.

Andrew Carnegie created the city's cultural backbone more than a century ago, founding what would become the Carnegie Museums of Pittsburgh. Today the institution includes the Andy Warhol Museum, an homage to the native son's more-than-15 minutes of fame, and home to thousands of paintings, sculptures, photographs and films. The city's contemporary art scene thrives in gallery-heavy neighborhoods such as Garfield and East Liberty, while Lawrenceville hosts an annual 24-hour mass exhibition called Art All Night. The Western Pennsylvanian hub also wears its sporting pride proudly, with three centrally located arenas—the Steelers' Heinz Field, the Pirates' PNC Park and the Penguins' Consol Energy Center—drawing the black-and-gold masses (almost everyone, in other words) year-round.

From academic Oakland—where the University of Pittsburgh is based—to Bloomfield, the local Little Italy, each of the city's 90 neighborhoods possesses a distinct feel (though they're unified by expressions like "yinz," the Steel City's answer to "y'all"). This hilly city sits at the crux of three rivers, and its 446 bridges facilitate exploration. Poking around will be even easier when a citywide bike-share program launches next summer. An Ace Hotel is scheduled to open in 2014, too, cementing Pittsburgh's arrival as a city of cool.

—Courtney Balestier

ENLARGE

The Chef: Justin Severino

Chef/owner of Cure restaurant

Good Morning // Espresso a Mano. My local coffee shop in Lawrenceville. If you go there between 9:30 a.m. and noon, you'll see half the chefs in Pittsburgh. In the summer, the shop opens its garage door onto the street for great people-watching. 3623 Butler St., espressoamano.com

BYOB 'Cue // Smoke Barbeque Taqueria. Hands-down the best barbecue in the city. It's BYOB and owned by an engaged couple who are a lot of fun. On Thursdays they do smoked chicken wings. 225 E. 8th Ave., Homestead, 412-205-3039

Flower Power // Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens. It's a mostly indoor botanical garden with a live butterfly display. You could spend 20 minutes or a whole day here. There are extensive outdoor gardens, too. 700 Frank Curto Dr., phipps.conservatory.org

Late-Night Italian // Dish Osteria & Bar. Only three or four restaurants in town serve real food late at night; Dish is open until midnight. Executive chef and owner Michele Savoia, who is from Sicily, has been running this place for 13 years. They do a nice grilled octopus, with potato salad, red wine vinegar and olive oil. 128 S. 17th St., dishosteria.com

The Scribe: Holly Brubach

Author, screenwriter, Pittsburgh native

Classic Shop // Shadyside Variety Store. This is a local institution, great for toys, with an antique brass cash register. 5421 Walnut St., 412-681-1716

Public Poetry // City of Asylum. This organization gives sanctuary to writers persecuted in their home countries. A dissident poet from China, Huang Xiang, lived in one of their houses on Sampsonia Way. Now it's called "House Poem," because he painted his anthology on it in Chinese characters. It's a big statement. Tours by appointment, 324 Sampsonia Way ("House Poem" at 408 Sampsonia Way), cityofasylumpittsburgh.org

River Trip // Kayak Pittsburgh. Rent a kayak by the hour—it's a great way to see the rivers and a beautiful point of view on the city. Multiple locations, kayakpittsburgh.org

Unusual Art // St. Nicholas Croatian Catholic Church. It has these allegorical murals by Maxo Vanka that show everything from Jesus interceding in a war to a capitalist wearing a top hat—a departure from the religious art you expect to find in churches, and charming and idiosyncratic. 24 Maryland Ave., stnicholascroatian.com

Millionaire's Digs // Clayton at the Frick Art & Historical Center. This museum was the family home before Henry Clay Frick built his mansion in New York. It's pretty much intact in terms of how the family lived there. 7227 Reynolds St., thefrickpittsburgh.org

Neighborhood Wander // Shadyside. Since I'm from Atlanta, the area reminds me of Buckhead. It's a unique place, very trendy, with a lot of different shops and boutiques. thinkshadyside.com

City Vista // Mount Washington. Pittsburgh has a great skyline. When I first got here, I took a picture from this scenic overlook, of Heinz Field and PNC Park, with the city in the background. Ride the cable-car inclines to the top, or drive. visitpittsburgh.com

Park and Walk // Schenley Park and University of Pittsburgh. One thing I love about Pittsburgh, especially the University of Pittsburgh, is all the great buildings. Walk or ride bikes in Schenley Park—Flagstaff Hill is a great spot—then head over to campus and appreciate the architecture, like the Cathedral of Learning. Schenley Park: pittsburghparks.org; Cathedral of Learning: 4200 Fifth Ave., pitt.edu

Ideal Hotel // Renaissance Pittsburgh Hotel. I usually stay in the Renaissance because it's so close to everything. Walk over the bridge to the football stadium, or go next door to the Byham Theater. 107 6th St., renaissancepittsburghpa.com

The Curator: Eric Shiner

Director of the Andy Warhol Museum

Word Heaven // Caliban Book Shop. I tend to be a book nerd, and Caliban is probably one of the country's best secondhand book stores. I like to go and get lost, just stumble onto things. I just bought a safari guide to Africa by Teddy Roosevelt. 410 S. Craig St., calibanbooks.com

Local Gem // Salt of the Earth. When I moved here in my 20s, there weren't many good bars and restaurants, but a bit of a foodie scene has developed. Salt of the Earth is right by my loft, and I eat there like three times a week. It has a sleek, contemporary interior and a menu that frequently changes—it might feature braised rabbit, then octopus. 5523 Penn Ave., saltpgh.com

Artistic Communion // Andy Warhol's grave. It's an active shrine; people are constantly leaving soup cans, Coke bottles, wigs. A local artist collects the notes people leave; there have been hundreds, in languages from all over the world. St. John the Baptist Byzantine Catholic Cemetery, 1066 Connor Rd., Castle Shannon, archpitt.org

Sound Sleep // The Priory Hotel. It's a unique property: a renovated monastery, with events held in a former church. 614 Pressley St., thepriory.com

Plus Don't Miss...

ENLARGE

PNC Park Catch a Pirates game—and stellar views of the Roberto Clemente Bridge and downtown skyline. pittsburgh.pirates.mlb.com/pit/ballpark // Primanti Bros. This restaurant's sandwiches, topped with French fries and coleslaw, are the stuff of legend. Visit the original Strip District location. primantibros.com // The Strip District Historically a wholesale produce district. Today those businesses mingle with meat purveyors, specialty shops and popular bars and restaurants. neighborsinthestrip.com // Tender Bar + Kitchen This new spot in a former bank emphasizes craft cocktails, each tagged on the menu with its creator's initials. tenderpgh.com // The Andy Warhol Museum This institution displays works by Warhol and other notable modern artists. warhol.org

Corrections & Amplifications Former Pittsburgh Steeler Hines Ward was a wide receiver. An earlier version of this article incorrectly said he was a running back.

This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use or to order multiple copies, please contact Dow Jones Reprints at 1-800-843-0008 or visit www.djreprints.com.