so, this is the shape of the rubber to look for, does not even need the slight curve in my opinion.

Hope this helps someone else to refurbish a tired rubber trim set. Any questions, just ask.

Oh, I also settled on a HONDA (Stanley) bulb for the rear turn signals, and the front turn/running. After all my research, Honda does spec a true 43watt/3 watt bulb front and 43 watt rear, as long as they come in a Honda box. Stock was like 32/3 in the old 1073/1156/1157 configurations. Much difference...maybe a hair, but, at least all bulbs are new now, not blackened, etc.. and, they are not the cheap Chinese knock offs either, which almost all the manufactures supply now.

Thanks for posting all the pictures on how you worked your way through the replacement of the rubber trim. I like the way you reassembled it using the staples, just like the factory did. My driver’s door rubber trim needs to be refreshed also so hopefully a good source for the rubber can be found by someone.

After getting the mini bike out of the way it is now time for the 510. I have promised myself ONE project at a time this year.

First was to unbolt the rear caliper and take the rotor off, so I could sand it with #80 grit, ready for new pads. That also let me check the caliper bracket mounting bolts for tightness. I will then check all bolts under the rear of the car and install a new fuel filter.

Next will be to pull front hubs and take to Specialty, where I will put new rotors on and check bearings. The pads in the car now have been in there for 20 years, have a bit of a glaze on them and there is a weird spot on the rotor. They sure do not owe me anything. I think the front pads were the last of the PERFORMANCE FRICTION's Super Pads. I went for the softest type of pad for that "race" caliper configuration for the Knox Mountain hillclimb and then street duty. Pad choice is always hard as no one pad does all that is required sometimes on our cars.I have gone with the BRAKEMAN's recommendation for both front and rear, so I will give a good assessment once broken in.

A good brake bleed will be the final task, I use the Wilwood 570 for street use.

I'm still agonizing over ordering my headlight upgrade, as our dollar is falling, so the exchange is quite brutal right now. That being said, I am planning on doing some good drives this season and there will be many starting and finishing in the dark.

The rust on there is due to parking the car after that last drive, where we hit rain. Just points out why I hate rain. There was no way I could get the car dry before the end of the season park.

Just noticed the outer trip/window squeegee guide here. Looks great! Just wanted to know if you used a staple gun or simply put each staple through and tightened it down by bending the tabs down. Did you use any adhesive at all? Thanks...

wow 20 years on a set of pads, they definitely don't owe you anything. were they the same rotors for all that time? I will be interested to hear how much of a difference you notice with the new ones. I expect to get 4-5 years out of the rotors on mine judging by the wear on them after a year. The pads will probably be good for a while after that. With these wilwood pads I do have the benefit of making a dust screen behind me every time I am hard on the breaks and there is a light show at night.

If no one from the future comes back to stop you from doing it then how bad of a decision can it really be?

One set of front rotors, mostly after our track day years, as that was a lot of road racing we did.

I hope these pads are not dusty like some have used, as they end up ruining wheels. Both Byron and James found that out. Are you using those Polymatrix that Andy like to use?

When you think of our drives now, I hardly ever use my brakes, specially from high speed, we tend to just carry our speed through the corners, at the limit, and as no one is trying to pass you going into the braking point, there is no need to be King of the Late Braker.