Tuesday, 9 March 2010

The local tribal woman wear these magnificent decorations around their necks and on their heads complimented with bright colour clothing. But it is so hard to have them accepting to be photographed. I had to try so many times before this group of 3 women finally accepted after much discussion and me trying to charm them.

There are two types of thunderstorms in Africa, the late afternoons one that usually last 1 or 2 hours and the late night, early morning storms that are the premise of a big humid front moving in and bringing big rains. So when I was woken up at 5h00 a.m. by lightning, I knew that this meant only one think, RAIN... I jumped out of my sleeping bag liner and immediately started packing my tent in the dark. Within 30 minute, hell broke loose on TDA camp site and I was one of the only few who made it dry... We were told when entering Kenya that this region was experiencing its worst drought in 10 years... Well, all they needed was me to arrive. I am quite famous for bringing extreme weathers where ever I go... Africa has always the same problem with water, it has either too little of it or too much. Today we were on the too much scenario... Far too much.... The storm literally dropped buckets loads of water on TDA with no place to hide. We all stood looking at each other hoping for this episode to end, but it did not, it got worst. Eventually within 15 minutes, we were all soaked and cold while the staff managed to put up one of the truck side covers acting like a giant umbrella where we could find some refuge from this downpour. Lightening was everywhere, hitting just above our heads. Some people found refuge under the trucks, but suddenly even there, water started flooding on the ground. By then breakfast plans had been abandoned and a big pot of boiled eggs was dropped on the ground by James the chef. This was all he could do as any kind of cooking was clearly impossible. The skies looked like things were not going to improve any time soon, so I decided to get going on my bike in the middle of this huge storm. There was nothing better I could think of. I was already completely soaked, and was now starting to get cold, so I thought that the only thing to do was to ride and get warmer. Many other riders followed that same strategy, while some just gave up and jumped on the trucks. This was a long, horrible day. The weather did not give us any brake until lunch time. It rained so heavily at times that I could hardly see where I was going. The road turned into something that felt at times like a river and at times like a giant wet sand pitch. On sand you have to spend at least twice the energy when pedaling, but on wet sand, you can add an extra 50%. Correction added to the challenge, at times it was ridiculous, you were either shaken like inside a tumble dryer or you were digging your front wheel into fat soft deep sand or you just hit water beds so deep you were almost swimming. Plenty of thorns carried by the water flowing through the roads added to the rider's misery and we all had a record number of punctures.It was a hard day, for us but also for our bikes. In Cairo, Kriss, the bike mechanic had told us that we should always avoid taking our bikes into the water and he recommended we always carry the bike over water... He he... Today, Kriss's talk was on our minds and it became the joke of the day... We would have carried our bikes the whole day, and even so, it rained so heavily that they would have been bathed anyway...

Tonight camp resemble a bike hospital after heavy fighting... The problem was that we are camping in the middle of the bush and there is no water available to wash ourselves or the bikes... So we used the muddy water from the potholes in front of camp... It is amazing how long 90 km can be when the conditions are so hard... Every 100 meters is hard and slow, so you almost don't want to look at the odometer, well actually, it is kind of useless as it is covered with mud and you can't read it...

We got a present from China at about 20 km from camp! Yes China! The Chinese are busy building a brand new tarred road and they have already built the base, so suddenly we were on good quality dirt without correction and raised above ground level so that water was not going through it. So this meant that our average speed exploded suddenly from 8 km per hour to 25... A welcome relief after so many hours in some of the toughest cycling conditions most of us had ever experienced.

Camp tonight is as bush camp as it gets, no cell phone reception, just the sounds of crickets, frogs and hyenas. Here in Kenya wild life roams freely, unlike in South Africa where it is restrained inside gated parks. Last night we had hyenas visiting our camp and this afternoon I kicked elephant dung out of the ground where I wanted to pitch my tent. Having a big tent is nice, at least they should not stumble on it...

Tomorrow we will be back on paved road and have successfully crossed this 500 km long desert stretch known to be the most difficult part of the tour. Now I understand why. I certainly did not expect so many different conditions from extreme heat to huge rain downpours, from lava rock to soft sands and so much correction, but this section has been fun to ride, and as Paul the race director told us, it is part of the legend of the tour. So completing this section is an achievement any rider can be proud of. Unfortunately, it seems that the Chinese plans to pave the roads all over Africa are going to change this and we might be one of the last TDA tour to enjoy it rough and untamed...

Jason fixing a puncture between two rain downpours.

TDA riders trying to find a dry spot from the thunderstorm

Lanie found this "dry space" underneath the truck

Hell braking loose on us as we were waking up.
Breakfast turned into a flood survival operation.

I stopped in the only small village we crossed today in this
deserted region and immediately became the number one
attraction for the kids.

Jethro fixing his punctured tubes

The only water available at camp to wash ourselves and
the bikes is the one on the road.... Still better than nothing...

Rod and Juliana cleaning their bikes

Bike shop is very busy tonight...

Washing yourself with one 750 ml water bottle is not easy,
but we have become quite good at it...

This is how camp looks like tonight, full of dirty dismanteled bicycles...

Jos and me at arrival after what will be one of the toughest
day of the tour (yet another one...)

2 comments:

Hi Gerald,we admire you and the whole pack of drivers. We know most of you are doing this torture not only for personally reasons but also for some relief projects. That's definitely the hardest way of fundraising I've ever heard of.Thanks to all of you in the name of those who will participate in the collected contributions. You are the greatest. Warm greetings from -10°C cold Munich from Claudia and Rainer

Gerald, its not a surprise for me that extreme weather follows your path. clearly you are like a rain -and snow- chaman. probably there is some money to make with that. Here in Andorra we miss you, yesterday only 30 cm of snow and now 9 degrees negatives bien sur. nothing in comparison to the febraury09 snow fall. I think thtat the most incredible thing about your TDA is not really yor effort but the fact that you can explain it in this blog¡ I follow you every night. joan from andorra

COMMENTS AND MESSAGES FOR GERALD

If you find difficult to send a comment to Gerald. Here is the easier way to do it: at the end of each posting you can find the word COMMENT just click on that and write you message and sign your name in the message and then send it as anonymous.

ROUTE MAP

The Tour D' Afrique Race

From Cairo to Cape Town....12 000 km, 10 countries, 96 days of cycling averaging 130 km each. 22 resting days. A total of 120 days to cross the continent and race with 40 over competitors.

This adventure race will challenge my body and mind like no other, crossing some of the most exotic places on earth, pedaling pass places like Kilimanjaro, Victoria falls, lake Malawi...

This race will also be about meeting people, sharing their lifes, their food, their culture.

Become a follower and you will receive regular updates and photos of this incredible adventure!

TRANSLATOR

ME

My name is Gerald Coniel, I am 45 y.o and I must be crazy!... But why be normal?...

HELP ME DONATE BIKES!

Each year the Tour D'Afrique organisation donates bicycles to health care associations in the countries we cross. One bike can deliver medicines up to 100 people a day. Last year 320 bikes were distributed... In 2010, we have donation ceremonies planned for Addis Ababa, Nairobi, Arusha, Lilongwe, Lusaka, Windhoek and Cape Town.

I will be handing over the bikes myself. You will see on this blog when, where, and to whom the bikes went.Join me in raising money for purchasing as many bikes as possible.www.tourdafrique.com/foundation

To participate, mail me at gconiel@andorra.ad100 euro buys one bike, it is the most efficient way to help I have ever heard. Get together with a few friends and offer one bike, make me proud! Imagine what an impact you can make with 100 euro!

MASAI STEPPE

MAP OF TANZANIA

MASAI STEPPE

SectionsFull Tour
Cairo to Cape TownPharaoh's Delight
Cairo to KhartoumThe Gorge
Khartoum to Addis AbabaMeltdown Madness
Addis Ababa to NairobiMasai Steppe
Nairobi to IringaMalawi Gin
Iringa to LilongweZambezi Zone
Lilongwe to Victoria FallsElephant Highway
Victoria Falls to WindhoekDiamond Coast
Windhoek to Cape TownMasai Steppe
Nairobi to Iringa
Start: March 14, Nairobi, Kenya
Finish: March 25, Iringa, Tanzania
Price: €950 Distance: 1,012km
Riding Days: 9 days
Resting Days: 3 days
(difficulty)
(exotic factor)
(comfort)
If scenes of Wildebeest migration and big cat kills on the Discovery or National Geographic Channel are your favourite vision of Africa, then this is the section of the Tour d'Afrique for you. One day south of Nairobi, you will arrive at the border of Tanzania and immediately spot the unmistakable Mount Kilimanjaro and its smaller sibling, Mount Meru. From there, it’s a day’s pedal to the rapidly growing and vibrant city of Arusha. As the gateway to such famous attractions as Serengeti National Park, Ngorogoro Crater, and “Kili,” Arusha is East Africa’s safari capital. Here riders are given 3 days off, affording them the opportunities to experience wild Africa at its most spectacular, to shop in the local stores and markets, or simply to rest and replenish their energies.
Heading south from Arusha, the red-cloaked Masai tribesmen will be your constant companions as you spin along roads with relatively little traffic, keeping an eye out for zebra and giraffe. At Lake Manyara you trade the tarmac for several challenging days of ascents and descents – the Masai Steppe – on a rougher gravel road, that can be treacherous in places if the rainy season has arrived. However the friendliness of the villagers, the roadside banana stands, and the sheer beauty of this unique and verdant land ensures that come rain or shine, this stretch is one of the most memorable on Tour. After passing through Tanzania’s modern capital of Dodoma, you hit pavement again shortly before the pleasant town of Iringa, which is the gateway to nearby Ruaha National Park, and a regional center of the Ismaili Islamic sect.

PLACES TRAVELLED IN KENYA

MELTDOWN MADNESS

South of Addis Ababa, the terrain changes again to rolling countryside interspersed with alkaline lakes. After passing Mount Guraghe and Lake Abaya, riders will arrive in Arba Minch (Forty Springs), which is renowned for its beautiful views, Crocodile farm, and nearby Nechisar National Park. In Yabello, you can visit the wildlife sanctuary where you might catch a glimpse at some of Africa's rarest birds such as the Prince Ruspoli Turaco. Most of the riding for this stretch is on reasonably good pavement, with one exception - a tough off-road day between Kanso and Yabello through remote villages inhabited by the Borena people.
The crossing from Ethiopia into Kenya at Moyale marks the beginning of the “meltdown” portion of this section. It takes 6 riding days to cross the unpaved lava expanse of northern Kenya’s Dida Galgalu desert, which for long stretches redefines the words bumpy and corrugated. At the midway point the market town of Marsabit, set on the slopes of an ancient volcano, offers a welcome respite before the “road” descends again into the arid lands that are home to the Samburu people and their herds of camels and cattle. Approaching Isiolo, riders rejoice at the sight of pavement, and the opportunity to have a well deserved beer or ice cream bar. From there, the route ascends and then descends the western slopes of majestic Mount Kenya, before crossing the equator in Nanyuki, which is a short day’s ride from Nairobi, East Africa’s largest city.
The “Meltdown” features some of the most diverse changes in scenery and riding conditions, from plateau to desert to savannah. Cycling the “Meltdown” in its entirety is an impressive accomplishment for any cyclist.

MAP OF ETHIOPIA

PLACES TREVELLED IN ETHIOPIA

THE GORGE

From Khartoum to the border of Ethiopia, the Tour passes through the “bread basket” of the Sudan. The countryside gradually changes as you cycle towards Ethiopia and witness the transformation from the Arabic Muslim world of northern Africa to the more tribal and traditional nature of the Horn of Africa.
Once in Ethiopia, the ride of your life begins. Ethiopia contains some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world as well as one of its most unique and ancient cultures. This section will challenge your body more than any other due to the high altitude riding, not least during the first two days in country when the Tour takes the rough but slowly improving road up onto the plateau from Metema to the Gondar road junction. The second of these days features the most climbing – some 2500 meters - of any day on tour.
The Ethiopian Highlands offer several fascinating stops including Gondar city with its 17th century castles, and Bahir Dar where you can visit ancient monasteries on islands in Lake Tana and the Blue Nile Falls. While some riders may hesitate to sample such wonders of Ethiopian cuisine as injera (flat bread), shuro wat (chick pea stew), and kitfo (steak tartare), no-one can resist the espresso and juice bars found in all the larger towns.
From a cycling standpoint, the highlight of this section will be the Blue Nile Gorge, a 1600-meter precipitous descent and ascent on a newly paved road that will test the mettle of cyclists of any caliber. Once you have conquered the Blue Nile Gorge, the beautiful terrain of the central Ethiopian plateau will whiz by as you spin towards the capital city of Addis Ababa. The descent from the eucalyptus forested hills that surround Addis into the downtown core is an experience you will not soon forget.

PHARAOH'S DELIGHT

The Tour d'Afrique starts at the legendary Pyramids of Giza, on the outskirts of Cairo. As one of the wonders of the world, the Pyramids are a perfect embarkation point for the intrepid journey ahead, and the Sphinx bows its head in respect as you cycle past and bid farewell to Africa’s largest city.
After riding to the Red Sea and down the coastal highway to Safaga, you climb inland and cross the rugged Eastern desert into Upper Egypt, joining the Nile River at Qena. In Luxor, the opportunity to explore the magnificent temple of Karnak and the Valleys of the Kings and Queens is one not to be missed. From there, the Route continues south along the banks of the mother Nile towards the Aswan Dam.
From Aswan you will travel overnight by boat down Lake Nasser and past the Abu Simbel monuments into Sudan, one of the world’s most remote and least visited countries. But as you will discover, the Sudanese are some of the world’s friendliest people. For many riders this is where the “real” Africa begins. With the Nile River as companion, you will spin past minarets and through palm grove villages that have hardly changed in hundreds of years. Change is however coming more rapidly now as the sandy tracks that the Tour used to traverse the Nubian desert on are replaced by smooth Chinese funded tarmac. This section ends with a convoy ride into the Sudanese capital city of Khartoum, which sits at the confluence of the Blue and White Nile rivers. After the heat and dust of the desert, Khartoum seems to be part oasis and part mirage, especially when one enters the air-conditioned ABSA shopping center, where milk shakes, gourmet coffees, a supermarket and even bowling can be found.
The "Pharaoh's Delight" is for those who want to feel the desert wind on their face and experience the romance of biking along one of the great rivers of the world through the lands of the Pharaohs, the Nubians and the Cush. At times you will feel like you are one of the first travelers to come upon these forgotten lands. And on a bicycle, that’s pretty much the truth.