Jeff,Just wanted to say thanks, I used the Spectrum Sludge today to do my passenger side wheel well and was very happy with the results. .......

Great to hear - yes works real well filling in and repairing the thick heavy parts of the original sound deadener. Unfortunately, in the past, when we find something that works well - the formula gets changed (regulations) or something else takes it off the market. Lets hope the stuff is around for a while longer

Jeff- The UPS man delivered my Spectrum Sludge today. Car is at the body shop. I'm going back Monday to do the wheelwells and inside the trunk on the quarter panels. Two questions. 1. How long did you wait after applying the Sludge to spray the paintable undercoating on? 2. What kind of spray on undercoating do you suggest? Thanks!

Jeff- The UPS man delivered my Spectrum Sludge today. Car is at the body shop. I'm going back Monday to do the wheelwells and inside the trunk on the quarter panels. Two questions. 1. How long did you wait after applying the Sludge to spray the paintable undercoating on? 2. What kind of spray on undercoating do you suggest? Thanks!

1- Stuff has to set up so I think it was 24 hrs

2- Any paintable rattle can undercoating will work. Allot depends on how thick you can get the stuff to spray ( I refrigerate it first) and the pattern the cheap nozzles will produce for you. For the Shelby think I used Bondo brand

Jeff- Went to the body shop today to apply the Sludge on the wheel wells and inside the trunk on the quarters. Just wanted to let you know this stuff works great and I was able to reproduce how these areas looked prior to dipping and e-coat. If I think of it I'll take some pictures of the finished product when I get back there next.

Just to add an update--I had some left over Spectrum Sludge and tried to duplicate the inside of the trunk quarter panel sound deadener on a January '65 Dearborn car on a piece of wood. Yeah, I know I must have been pretty bored to come up with this idea... This stuff is pretty adaptable. With some practice and time it will do what you need it to do. Thanks again Jeff for the idea.

Great thread to supplement info found in the Library article. I have read so far only the first page & will go back to read more perhaps this evening when I have more time.

Question I have along the lines of "Seam Sealers" is what is best for the brushable, something already BLACK in color. Areas of usage would be along the rocker panels/floorboards under the car & places like around the seatbelt plates. Maybe other threads I could locate n the subject, I am sure but for now I want to make up a list of materials & application tools so I can buy everything needed for my 67.

Question I have along the lines of "Seam Sealers" is what is best for the brushable, something already BLACK in color. Areas of usage would be along the rocker panels/floorboards under the car & places like around the seatbelt plates. .............

Maybe not the best but what has worked well for me for years is a DAP product that I purchase at places like Home Depot. It can be purchased in black, is smooth (no grit like some of the roofing repair stuff) and is IMHO a good match. Have only a draft of the 67 San Jose undercarriage (paint and sealer details) article done. Its like the 70 Dearborn one that was published and posted earlier this year in the library. These have been a 20 year project. Always correcting, adding too and tweeking so they never seem to get as done as I would like for publishing to the general public. Have mostly worked on the years that I get more requests to since these have saved me allot of time rather than answering related questions over and over as the years pass

Maybe not the best but what has worked well for me for years is a DAP product that I purchase at places like Home Depot. It can be purchased in black, is smooth (no grit like some of the roofing repair stuff) and is IMHO a good match. Have only a draft of the 67 San Jose undercarriage (paint and sealer details) article done. Its like the 70 Dearborn one that was published and posted earlier this year in the library. These have been a 20 year project. Always correcting, adding too and tweeking so they never seem to get as done as I would like for publishing to the general public. Have mostly worked on the years that I get more requests to since these have saved me allot of time rather than answering related questions over and over as the years pass

Thanks for the reply. Before I had read this, I went by the paint store and asked what they had on hand for sealers & sound deadeners plus I talked a little with them about these discussions within this thread and left there with only a caulking tube of black seam sealer & some acid brushes to try out. The salesman said the black seam sealer should spread OK with the brushes. I think I'll try some off the car first for practice.

Fortunately, my 67's underbody had not been molested enough to remove details of "where" to do the varying tasks and when I media-blasted, I left the underside alone for the most part. I also layed-light on the media-blasting over any seam sealing around the cowl and apron areas(mostly only removing paint so I have a good chance of putting things back close to original if I use the right products. I also ordered some Spectrum Sludge today and some Self-leveling sealer. There went a decent chunk of the bank account!

Thanks for the reply. Before I had read this, I went by the paint store and asked what they had on hand for sealers & sound deadeners plus I talked a little with them about these discussions within this thread and left there with only a caulking tube of black seam sealer & some acid brushes to try out. The salesman said the black seam sealer should spread OK with the brushes. I think I'll try some off the car first for practice.

You might find that wetting the brushes in water or reducer will help it spread and not just clump on the brush. For most things a 1/2" wide brush will produce better results (so that it looks like it was done in a single wipe one time from end to end) than a thinner brush

Fortunately, my 67's underbody had not been molested enough to remove details of "where" to do the varying tasks and when I media-blasted, I left the underside alone for the most part. I also layed-light on the media-blasting over any seam sealing around the cowl and apron areas(mostly only removing paint so I have a good chance of putting things back close to original if I use the right products. I also ordered some Spectrum Sludge today and some Self-leveling sealer. There went a decent chunk of the bank account!

I've looked at every picture I can find of 67 SJ March seam sealers.I think I've viewed every attempt at producing a factory seam sealer and sound deadening application.

While I commend all the efforts, I still wonder why when we think nothing of multi-thousand dollar paint jobs we still think Lord Fusor is expensive? I can find the gun for around $165. While the tubes are $15 each or so, even with 10 of them the cost is around $300 including gun. That's chicken feed in the whole process.

You can fiddle with the pressures and do overspray and fiddle to your hearts content in order to replicate almost any pattern on the car.This example is a screen shot of a one pass. Look at the video to see how to produce various depths and patterns.

What am I missing? Why the disdain for this process?

[on edit -- I should add that the video uses a Transtar gun and Transtar 4182 seam sealer. The sealer comes in 4 different colors. The Lord gun is identical to the Transtar and half of the price of that gun on Amazon]