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RAIL Stiles and rails made of 8/4 stock planed to fit existing jamb Panel pinned at center of top and bottom rail. out enough cross-grain movement to break the joint loose. I get plenty of strength using double rows of biscuits in all four joints. Precise dimensioning is key to speed The greatest aid to speed and efficiency is accuracy in milling. If your stock is milled up square and true, the rest of the work will go smoothly and quickly. But if you mess up on the first pan, well, you'll be sorry. So to begin, check and recheck your jointer fence and sawblades for perfect squareness. Unless you want to move the stops on Sti le grooves. in. wide A slight 5° bevel is cut into the stile. with the low side toward the direction of closure. and % in. deep. allow a full inch of leeway for the panel to move across the grain. % your door jambs-they'll either be nailed or rabbeted into the jambs-it's best to make your doors the same thickness as the ones you're replacing. Next edge-joint one edge, rip to width, then edge-joint the sawn edge. Crosscut the rails, but leave them a little long until Bore for lockset before assembling the door. v-grooved panel is made of lx4s planed to a thickness of % in . you determine the final length. The last step is to plow the grooves in the To avoid a messy finish. panel is given a washcoat of shellac before it goes into the frame. and frame for the panel. I cut grooves % in. wide In l/Z in. deep across the length of the rails. the panel a full inch of leeway to move across the grain. Also, I stop the grooves so they don't run far into the joint area. Before we go on, let's back up a minute. the stiles, I cut grooves 3f4 in. deep, giving By making a door in your own shop, you MAY/JUNE 1998 71