Jennie Geisler: Try this tangy spring dish

No matter what the weather, spring has arrived in my kitchen. That means lots of fish, tangy lemon, and simple, lightly seasoned dishes that cook quickly and pack their own flavors.

Try lemon pepper on pork tenderloin, strips of preserved lemon tossed with pasta and Parmesan, and salmon fillets any way you want them. Rub with a Cajun blend and broil, or bake and serve with a dollop of basil pesto. Yogurt and dill make lovely toppings, too.

I know what many of you are thinking about the following recipe, however: “Anchovies, yuck!” Friends, I’m telling you: Don’t knock ’em till you’ve tried them. They pack a wallop of flavor, tamed but not covered by the garlic and butter.

If you don’t think fish has enough flavor to satisfy you, try this and tell me you didn’t just go through a wall of deliciousness.

Personally, I think it has enough going for it without the capers, which are saltier than a lake in Utah, and a bit mealy besides. But do not skip the anchovy butter. Trust me on this one.

Heat oven to 400 F. In a small bowl, mash together butter, anchovies, garlic, salt and pepper.

In a large ovenproof skillet, melt about half the anchovy butter. Add fish, skin side down. Cook for 3 minutes over high heat to brown the skin, spooning some of the pan drippings over the top of the fish as it cooks. Add capers to bottom of pan and transfer to oven. Roast until fish is just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove pan from oven and add remaining anchovy butter to pan to melt. Place salmon on plates and spoon buttery pan sauce over the top. Squeeze the lemon half over the salmon and garnish with chopped parsley. Serve.— New York Times

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