The Brunch Report--Wood-Fired Bloody Marys at Beacon

Oh, brunching. I find that it often sucks. But I'm trying to be less of a curmudgeon and participate in the city-wide egg-eating ritual every now and then. And it's so pleasant when you find a place that takes real care with its brunch offerings. Brunch at Beacon is expensive--dishes average around $25. The entrees are not limited to cliche-brunchy fare, ranging from fried egg and arugula pizza, a burger, a smoked salmon omelet, shrimp-arugula salad and challah french toast. Included in the price of your dish is access to a little baked-good buffet. Yesterday it happened to feature some crack-like mini apple muffins. Best of all, since Beacon is known for its wood-burning oven, many of the brunch dishes also spend time over the flames.

This brings us to Beacon's Bloody Mary, which is one of the best I've ever had. The mix is made with tomatoes that have been roasted in the oven, rendering them sweet and concentrated. Add tons of horseradish, black pepper and a dash of balsamic vinegar, plus a generous amount of vodka, and that's a tasty eye-opener.

The strawberries on top of the challah French toast had also been roasted in the oven, making them into a darkly sweet, faintly woodsy compote.