Monday, 9 April 2012

Noir - Melbourne - 175 Swan Street, Richmond

It is places like Noir that remind us why Melbourne is the best city to eat out in the world.

It popped up a while ago replacing the breakfast joint "Flavours of Lakhoum" which Richmond folk thought they could never live without - how quickly we move on...

Stepping into Noir you feel like you are walking in on a private romantic dinner for two. The room is dark and there is candlelight all round which takes about 5 years off your age - the date is sure to end in success so long as you don't turn the lights on in the taxi or at your front door.

Noir is modern French.

If your table permits, you must have the degustation. If your table does not permit, then try and talk them into it. Tell them it costs $80 and is extraordinarily good value - you can also add "mind you it was $70 when it first opened last year - a sign of popularity". You will get the chef's favourite dishes of the day and each one really is a taste sensation, without the wankiness. The eye fillet of beef tartare has a small quail egg with a hint of truffle and a layered apple waldorf salad on the side - a good twist. Oysters come with a champagne granita and if it is winter you have to ask for the rabbit pie - no question.

I had no such luck with degustation this time as there was a pesctarian on the table. Mind you the menu has lots of options for pescatarians, vegetarians and all other weirdaquarians.

The pescatarian ate a mushroom pie which was hearty and punchy in flavour although it was turned upside down with the pastry on the base - she was of the view that the pie crust is on the top for a reason - so it does't get soggy. Some useful feedback but an excellent dish nonetheless.

The trio of salmon was delicate and cooked perfectly although my friend did find the poached salmon a bit too rich - to that I say that you have to love salmon to order this dish.

I shared a number of entrees with a good friend who says yes at the suggestion of sharing the likes of: caramelised atlantic scallops with oxtail tortellini and cauliflower puree; pork belly with apricot, sticky wine sauce, peas and prawn; and moreton bay bug tortellini.

There are many good restaurants around Melbourne but this is one of those great ones. A full house on a Monday night proves this.