Monthly Archives: September 2011

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The concept is very simple. We’ve provided a lot of cord to allow for a bunch of different options for the length of your piece. First, cut the cord in two identical length pieces (two yards each). The holes in the cord are large enough to fit the metal bars.

The following photo illustrates how you want your loom to look once it is warped.

How to put the cord and bars on your loom.

1) Slide the required number of paper clips on each bar. If you don’t put enough on, don’t worry because you can always add more while the bars are on the loom. If you put on too many, you can slide the clips to the side. In this example, we used five clips on the top and five on the bottom for a piece that will be nine beads wide.

2) Loop the two pieces of cord over the top of the loom. Stick the ends of the top bar through the loops near the end of the cords. Take the other two tales of the cord underneath the loom and up to the top bar. You will be attaching the cord to that same top bar (the bottom bar gets inserted later). Make sure each cord is the same length. It does not have to be tight. The tension will be adjusted later.

3) To attach the bottom bar, first measure down from the bottom of the paper clips of the top bar to the place on the cord that is the length of the piece you want to weave PLUS the length of the paperclips on the bottom bar. So if your piece is going to be six inches long, you will measure down six inches plus the length of the paperclips. Simple stick the bottom bar into the two cords at this place. It will easily slide into the holes of the cord.

4) Refer to first photograph. In order to warp the loom, simply tie to either a top or bottom paper clip and then in a zigzag pattern slip your warp through the top and bottom paper clips until you have as many warps as you need. Tie off on final paper clip.

5) Slide the cord that is on the outside of the top bar (the cord that runs the same path as your warp) off the top bar. Now you just have warp between the bars on the front of the loom.

6) Evenly space the paperclips. Apply tension on the loom. Begin weaving as you normally would. The beads will space the warps as necessary and the paper clips will make sure warps do not tangle or cross.

7) Weave until you have a space one bead wide on top to allow for shrinkage once piece is removed from the loom.

8) If you plan to weave another piece of the same length, replace the cords on the top bar so that when you remove your piece the bars remain attached to the loom. Reduce the tension on the loom and slip your piece out of the paper clips.

9) The only remaining finishing will be to weave in the two warp ends.

My husband Alex and I recently adopted a puppy. His name is Sam (you can follow him on Twitter @ClimateDog… yeah my dog is 11 weeks old and has more followers than me). Right now he has a harness and no collar, which, since he’s just learning to walk on a leash, is probably best. But at some point in the future, we know we’re going to want a fancy collar for the little guy. It wasn’t hard to decide to weave one. I decided to make it similar to a tapestry/cuff bracelet with beads, silk and novelty yarn. It is 3/4 of an inch wide, 7 warps using a 10 dent spring. I chose blues and greens for this. Actually, Alex did. He wanted the colors of the local Seattle soccer team, the Sounders.

As I continue weaving, I will purchase some dog collar hardware to make it a functioning collar rather than just a doggy necklace!

The next step in the exploration of this new method of weaving on the Mirrix Loom where are no warps to sew back in was to try it with wire. I dug into my wire drawer and came out with a spool of soft TOUCH size .010 in. diameter wire. Warped my loom in about ten seconds with eight warps. The advantage to using this method with wire is two-fold. Wire loom work is hard to finish and wire is expensive and it’s wasteful to have a lot of long warp ends. Both issues were immediately solved with this method. I love my new bracelet!

We are ready to weave! So get out your specs, your warped loom, silk, gold thread, sumptuous gold beads (how we love the gold!), needle and your imagination and maybe a wee bit of patience and let’s weave.

We will be weaving two tapestry/bead cuffs at the same time to provide you with different styles. Here are some example photos: In this first one we have the simplest design represented by the Wedding Cuff (which simply means it’s white, not black, so don’t let the color confuse you). For this simple, yet elegant, piece we’ve woven one inch sections of a combination of three gold threads (in your kit the gold thread is actually three gold threads) and one silk thread. We then wove a line of size 10/0 24 karat gold plated Delica beads followed by an inch of weaving, followed by a row of beads until there are seven sections of woven area and six rows of Delica beads.

The second and third examples (one is done in black silk and the other in white silk), incorporate the same basic design as the first but throw in a couple of other techniques such as “pick and pick” and pure gold lines of thread.

Simple Cuff

Cuff with more techniques

Another Cuff with more techniques

So choose whether you are going for simple or slightly more complex. But even if you start with one concept, you can easily pick up the other since both styles incorporate seven one inch woven sections divided by six rows of beads. This formula guarantees your piece will be the correct length plus the kit includes enough beads to weave six rows. Now you could stagger the rows differently if you’d like, but remember that you are only going to get six rows of beads out of the kit.

We will begin with the simple version:

Starting that first weft thread:

Prepare your weft by combining a yard length of the three strand gold thread (you will always use the gold thread in three strands so it is thick enough) and one strand of silk.

End the header thread by inserting it through two center warps. Begin a strand of silk where you’ve ended the header thread as if you were continuing with the same thread. You will begin and end all thread in this manner making sure that no thread is ever pushing through to the front of your weaving. Remember, you do not care what the back looks like!

Weave a little shy of one inch of the gold and silk combined threads. Do not pull in too tightly at the edges so that your piece remains a consistent width. Don’t weave so loosely that you have large loops at the edges.

The next step is to add a row of beads. Thread beading thread onto a needle and tie an overhand knot.

Loop the silk and gold thread through the loop of thread on your needle.

Pick up eleven needles with your needle. Slide the beads onto the gold and silk thread.

Loop the silk and god around the side warp once (this will serve to anchor the beads, which although you cannot see are on the thread).

Weave the beads into the piece. There will be two beads between the raised warp threads except for the last one.

Push the beads into place with your fingers and pull tightly enough n the thread so that it is completely buried in the beads. Neatness counts!

Make two loops around the end warp thread both to anchor the beads but also to fill up the space on the side of the beads.

Continue weaving the gold and silk thread until you reach close to an inch.

Continue in this manner until you’ve reached seven white almost one inch long sections divided by six rows of beads.

Now let’s move onto the more complicated Cuff. This one is woven in black silk but can also be woven in white silk.

Cut a length of silk about a yard long.

Stick the end of the header thread between two warps in the center of the weaving and begin the silk where the header thread ends. Not a great picture, but I can’t go back and take another one now.

Weave the silk thread for about six passes. This is not set in stone.

Now you get to add the gold! End the silk thread in the middle of the weaving and start the three stranded gold where the silk thread ended.

Weave some of that gorgeous gold.

Add the black thread back in but this time at the edge because you are not ending the gold thread. I know this is not a clear picture. It looked fine on the camera! What I’ve done is wrap the black thread around the side warp so that it doesn’t stick out the side. Take the end under the side warp and then wrap it to the right over the warp sticking it in between the two side warps. Then weave it to meet the end of the gold.

Wrap the gold around the end warp twice. Then weave it back to the right.

Weave the black thread to the right. You are doing pick and pick, which is essentially a way to make vertical stripes. It’s a blast once you get the hang of it.

Weave the gold back. It will naturally go around the black thread making a neat edge.

Weave the black thread. See the design emerge!

Do the same trick with the gold thread, wrapping around the edge thread twice before you weave it.

Weave just gold for a bit and then end it and add the silk thread.

Weave just the silk thread for a bit.

End the gold thread and start the silk thread.

Weave a few rows of the silk thread.

Add the gold thread while NOT ending the black thread. See the way you wrap the thread around the end warp backwards so that the end sticks out behind the weaving.

Weave the gold thread for two passes. This will not be pick and pick. Rather it is called wavy lines. You will weave two passes of each color instead of one.

Weave the silk thread for two passes.

Weave the gold thread for two passes.

Weave the gold thread for two passes.

Then the black. Congratulations! You’ve woven an inch and are ready to add beads.

Thread bead thread in to a needle and tie an overhand knot.

Loop the silk thread that is being woven on the loom around the bead thread attached to the needle.

The Mirrix Weave-Along 2 officially begins today! We will start warping next week, but wanted to take this opportunity to work out any kinks and make sure everyone is prepared for warping.The Schedule:
Week One: October 2nd- October 8th
Loom set-up, Warping, weaving header

Week Four: October 23rd- October 29th
Finishing weaving, cutting off the loom, finishing the cuff

What you need:-A Mirrix Loom (preferably size 12 or larger with a shedding device) and all that comes with one.
-A twelve-dent spring (this comes with your Mirrix loom). A twelve-dent spring means that there are twelve dents (spaces in the warp coil) in an inch when on the loom.
-An elegant cuff bracelet kit or a wedding cuff bracelet kit (or similar materials)The kits contain the following:-Brass cuff one inch wide-C-Lon Cord size 135-14k gold thread on a silk core, white or black silk thread-8/0 and 11/0 seed beads for weaving and embellishment-ultra-suede-Heddles (these can be purchased in the Mirrix Storeor you can make them yourself)To make them yourself: You will need to make as many individual heddles as there will be warps in your weaving. These heddles (as well as the Mirrix heddles you can buy) will be reusable. The thinner and stronger the string you use, the better. For bead weavers, cotton quilting or beading thread works great. For tapestry weavers, cotton crochet thread, linen warp or single-ply cotton warp works well.Nail two finishing nails into a piece of wood three and one-eight inches apart. You will use this little tool to tie your warps. Cut ten inch lengths of your heddle material, one for each heddle you will make. Tie them around the nails, using an overhand knot to secure the ends. In order to get that knot to sit right next to the nail, slip a needle into the knot before it is pulled tight and push the knot toward the nail. Then tighten it. Trim off the ends of the heddles to within a quarter of an inch of the knot.-A pair of scissors-A bead mat (optional)-A needle (or needles) -Glue that can bond fabric to metal. These types of glue are available through craft outlets. You will only need this for finishing your cuff. -A Phillips head screw driver IF you have wooden clipsSet-Up:How you want to set up your work space is up to you, but we suggest finding a flat surface and organizing everything you will need to warp the loom and begin weaving. Swing out the two (or one if you are using an 8″ loom) legs under the loom and place it on a flat surface.

Make sure your loom is at a height so you have about 2″ of threaded rod showing on each side. Measure to make sure the loom is even. We suggest if you are using a size 12″ loom or larger that you put your weaving on the left or right side of the loom. You will need some kind of string to tie around the warping bar on the opposite side of where you will put your piece. You will do this after you have warped your loom. It will help to stabilize the warping bar. The reason you don’t put it in the middle of the loom is, because it is such a thin piece, it is difficult to balance the bar. You may want to warp the loom on both sides and make another piece on the other side at a later date. For example, you could warp the other side 10 warps wide and make a little purse.How to Participate, the social aspect
Participants are encouraged to ask questions and engage with other members of the weave-along via email and social media sites including posts on the “A Word From Elena” blog, the Mirrix Facebook Page, the Mirrix Facebook Group, the Mirrix Ravelry Pageand on Twitter! This is a community event. One of the greatest benefits of doing this weave-along is engaging with others who are doing the same thing. Of course we will moderate and answer questions, but we hope you will all help the conversation along and post pictures and updates of your projects.
Remember, if you have any problems you can alwaysemail us directly.
A Prize! We’ve partnered with OttLite, the premier crafting light company, and one lucky participant (we will randomly select one person who participates weekly by posting comments, questions and pictures) will win an OttLite Floor Lamp, the very same one Mirrix President Claudia Chase has owned for years.
Thank you for being a part of this, we can’t wait for next week!
Elena Zuyok & Claudia ChaseMirrix Looms

I was in one of those moods today. Just didn’t feel like doing anything I had ever done before. I decided to use the new “New Warps to Sew in” kit to weave wire. Unfortunately, I failed because I don’t have the right wire on hand. That experiment will have to wait until I can gather the right materials. I am still contemplating what they are.

Frustrated because I hadn’t broken any new ground (at least new ground for me) I randomly decided to put a warp of magenta hand-dyed silk on an eight inch loom using the new kit. Wasn’t really sure where I was going to go with that until I dug into a basket of beads and came up with some magatamas (4 x 7 mm), some size 8/0s and some triangle beads. I also dug out some gold thread. This thread is flat and gold plated on both sides. It fit inside the eye of my tulip beading needles so it was a go.

My goal was to let the beautiful silk thread show. This thread would have been impossible to weave in after the weaving was done hence the use of the kit. Another goal was to let the beads speak for themselves and not try to speak for them. What I mean by that: I wanted the piece to be playful and somewhat random. But not bead soup. And as I wove it I realized it was actually free form bead weaving. I don’t know if that is a term already in use, but if it isn’t, it should be, and this is what it is!

The piece took me all of thirty minutes to weave (about five minutes to warp) and when it was done, it was done. If it is to become a bracelet I need to think about a clasp. I am leaning toward threading beads on one of the two silk ends to make the circle of a clasp and creating a peyote tube to be attached to the other silk end. This takes care of the ends and the clasp but I suppose one could just add a standard clasp by using the silk ends.

Seems to me that the possibilities are endless for this concept. I think I got outside my box today!

WEBS is going to be the latest dealer for Mirrix Looms. We are thrilled to have our looms in their store and available through their web site. They asked me to pick out some colors of their Berkshire Valley Yarns and weave a sample tapestry on a 22 inch loom. I used their Linen Valley yarns 8/2 for warp. Using linen warp on the Mirrix Loom is a pleasure because the tension is so even and strong. It’s difficult to warp looms with linen when you have to tie on the threads. A continuous warp makes warping with linen so much easier.

This is where I am at. I have an inch or two to go before weaving the final linen hem. And then off it goes to WEBS in North Hampton, MA to go on display. We hope you have a chance to visit this wonderful store. It’s huge and filled with all sorts of wonderful stuff . . . and now the Mirrix Loom and warp and weft yarn to make your Mirrix sing.

This weave-along is a FREE online course. Claudia Chase and Elena Zuyok of Mirrix Looms will lead participants through a project woven on a loom. Every Sunday participants will get an email going over what participants worked on week before and giving instructions and tips for the week ahead. Participants are encouraged to ask questions and engage with other members of the weave-along via email and social media sites.“A Word From Elena” blog, Mirrix Facebook Page, Mirrix Facebook Group, Mirrix Ravelry Page. This is a community event!

What are we weaving?

We are weaving a cuff bracelet that combines tapestry and beads. You have a choice to weave either a white “Wedding Bracelet”, a black “Elegant Bracelet” or a bracelet with materials of your own! These cuff bracelets were designed by Claudia Chase, President of Mirrix Looms. They are made using the Mirrix’s Looms shedding device on a loom warped for tapestry weaving. The beads fit perfectly between the warp threads, making the bracelet fast, easy and fun to weave! After it comes off the loom, the piece is secured to a brass cuff (that fits any wrist size!) and embellished with beads. It’s a fun project for anyone from beginners to expert weavers.

Why participate?

It will be fun and a great learning experience! Not only will you get step-by-step instructions in real time on how to do a great project, but you’ll be doing it with other people who you can bounce ideas off of and ask question to.

PLUS we’ve partnered with OttLite, the premier crafting light company, and they have offered to give a fantastic prize to be given to one of the participants at the end of the weave-along. Note that you must be an active participant to qualify. Check back soon for more information on the prize!

What materials do you need?

We provide kits for both the black (Elegant Cuff) and white (Wedding Cuff) bracelets. When you sign up for the weave-along (email elena@mirrixlooms.com) you will receive a 25% off code for these kits.

If you have your own materials that are similar to these, feel free to use them. Or, if you just need some of the materials, many parts of the kit are available in our online store including the cuffs, silk, C-Lon and gold thread.

The kits contain the following:

-Brass cuff one inch wide

-C-Lon Cord size 135

-14k gold thread on a silk core, white or black silk thread

-8/0 and 11/0 seed beads for weaving and embellishment

-ultra-suede

Other Materials:

-A Mirrix Loom

-Scissors

-A needle

What’s the schedule?This weave-along is slated to begin on September 23rd. On that day we will send out an email and post a blog post about setting up your loom and go over the basic process and dos and don’ts to get your prepared. We will begin warping on Sunday, october 2nd. This gives everyone a little more time to get their kits in the mail. They should take about three days to send and are sent day-of. Please order as soon as possible!