The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Observance of the voluntary June closure balances American Indian cultural and ceremonial values associated with the Tower and the month of June, with the status of the Tower as a world class destination and experience for rock climbers.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

 WHY JUNE? The summer solstice, which occurs late in June, makes June an extremely culturally significant period for American Indians. The Tower is a sacred site to affiliated tribal cultures. June was selected as the voluntary closure month by the Climbing Management Plan working group due to the many traditional ceremonies taking place throughout June, culminating at the end of June and the solstice.

 I DON’T SEE ANY CEREMONIES, WHY SHOULD I CHOOSE NOT TO CLIMB IN JUNE? The voluntary June closure is not tied to the visible presence of American Indian ceremonies at the Tower because these ceremonies occur any day throughout the year. Some ceremonies occur at night. These ceremonies are often private and may not be visible to visitors. Maximizing compliance with the voluntary closure is necessary to achieve balance between American Indian cultural values and climber access.  WHY ARE CLIMBERS RESTRICTED WHEN OTHER USER GROUPS ARE NOT? Climbing is perceived by some American Indians as in direct conflict with the Tower as a sacred site. One of the key elements of the Climbing Management Plan is balancing the validity of perspectives and uses by American Indians and climbers. The voluntary closure includes all Monument visitors above the Tower loop trail, not just rock climbers.

The Access Fund, a climber advocacy and access organization, supports compliance with the voluntary June climbing closure as a means to:

o Promote understanding and encourage respect for the culture of the numerous American Indian tribes who are closely affiliated with the Tower as a sacred site.

o Promote and advance self-regulation by climbers rather than more restrictive options.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE 2016- LIFTED: (Effective March 15-July 30) As of July 30, 2016 All climbing routes and summit areas at Devils Tower National Monument are reopened after peregrine falcons successfully fledged from the southeast face of the Tower. “Young peregrine falcons were observed feeding and flying well and are no longer dependent on the nesting areas of the Tower previously closed to climbing.” said Rene Ohms, Chief of Resource Management.

A complete and regularly updated list of closed routes can be found on the park’s web site.

To learn more about Devils Tower National Monument visit www.nps.gov/deto or www.facebook.com/Devils-Tower-National-Monument-Official-NPS-Site or twitter.com@DevilsTowerNM or Instagram at #devilstowernps Voluntary Closure Every June: Climbers are asked to respect the voluntary closure for the month of June to respect Devil's Tower's importance as a cultural resource.

To learn more about Devils Tower National Monument, contact 307-467-5283, visit us online at www.nps.gov/deto

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

This area encompasses a large portion of Devil's Tower that is accessable via the East and Northeast buttress approaches. Everything from offwidth to finger cracks can be found here. Most routes are of high quality with sustained straight-in climbing. On the East side of the tower looms a large roof system that cuts across the sheer East face of the tower. To the right of these roofs is the Belle Fouche buttress which forms a prominent protrusion that ledges out halfway up the tower. This buttress marks, more or less, the left end of the routes accessable from this appoach. The right end is at the terminus of the ramp below the north face. Quality climbs of note include Belle Fouche buttress, McCarthy's North Face, and New Wave. From the Teacher's Lounge ledge there are several great climbs including Patent Pending and Assembly Line.

Getting There

From the lot follow the paved trail around the North side of the tower. The trail dips low into the woods and then climbs back into view of the tower. Hike past a bench and before a large boulder start looking for a faint trail that is sometimes cairned. The trail winds up to the notch that separates the base of the east face from the northeast. At the notch the better defined trail goes up steps to the right to the routes below teacher's ledge lounge and continues on broken ledges to all the north face routes. The less defined trail is so because there are less quality routes and abundant poison ivy. To reach routes on and near Belle Fouche buttress ford the ivy and scramble up and across slabs to the base.

One of three must-do routes in the Belle Fourche Buttress area... an excellent hang-out on hot afternoons. This climb follows the left facing dihedral of the buttress. I can't tell the difference between a 5.9 or 5.11a crux a lot of times at the Tower, but this one felt kind of burly.More varied than your typical Tower pitch, this pitch covers a lot of different techniques in pulling a series of bulges. The climb really gets going at about the 40' foot mark, with tips around a slight leftward...[more]Browse More Classics in WY

The way we were told to find the trail for the approach was wonderful. From the parking lot take the right(counterclockwise) paved path that leads you under Durrance and follow it to the USPS information sign for the fallen tower. From there walk 70 paces, the trail leads up to the left. It works every time and if your paces are smaller than mine the trail is ~70 paces at a point where the paved path starts going back up after dropping down a hill.

Dear Friends,I am leaving today, just for the winter. For that I am a little sad. I hope everyone keeps crankin' & and having fun.Remember climbing is not to feed the EGO but a chance to be a good partner and enjoy Life around the corner from the manstream lifestyles. I have climbed in a few areas besides the ones in SD WY but here is home and in my opion really really great!! In our time right now there is so much BS already it seems odd to me that sometimes we fight in a very childish way. Lets all stand together and help one another not push one another down and judge each other for the small things. I know I am not a Saint, and that keeps me in check. Everyone make mistakes, hopefully we can all learn from them? Well anyway as we sometimes say, "I'M OUT"!I love this place and all the people in it, I may not show it sometimes but I think and pray for our community and resorces in it, all the time. I consider myself one of the Lucky Ones to have grown up here and in the process make many Lifelong Friends.To all of you out there short, tall, strong or weak, I LOVE YOU.Love Curt