Restaurant Review: Bondir Concord

“Any young chef would be seduced by the care that Bond gives every humble root vegetable in a first course of Chantenay carrot flan ($16/$30). The turnips, parsnips, carrots, and radishes come from the root cellar of a farm down the road, and each was individually diced, sautéed, or steamed to bring out its very essence. Triangles of pan-crisped teff polenta—a starch that Bond has perfected, allowing the tiny beads of grain to remain distinct within a soft and comforting whole—paired very nicely with the smooth, potently sweet ovals of carrot flan. This was a flawlessly executed dish, one that vegetarians might want to order a larger portion of: Most menu items are offered in both small and large sizes, allowing diners to sample many things in one meal.”