Arboreal. From the Isle of Santana off the Port of Santana near the mouth of the Amazon River, this tropical species is typically found in trees some 3 to 15 feet off the ground. Discovered in green leaves of a grove, it has also been found in some abundance among dead leaves in banana trees and palm trees.

Temperament:

This species is considered to be docile. Please keep in mind that although each species have their stereotype temperament, individual spiders can exhibit temperaments that vary significantly from the norm. I have never seen my girl flick hairs, throw a threat pose, much less bite me or try. I do understand that these, and most Avicularia species, do not flick hairs so much as rub them into their webs. Avicularia geroldi seem to be more nervous than A. avicularia or metallica and mine will slowly resist being nudge out of her cage, only to sprint once out and would readily jump.

Intermediate (due to its delicate requirements of humidity and ventilation).

Temperature:

78°- 84°F. I keep mine between 80° and 84°F.

Humidity:

80%. These are a tropical species so they need higher humidity. I mist my girl's tank walls a few times a week. As slings, Avicularia are particularly delicate spiders, and have a reputation (even more than the general Avicularia genus) to die without warning or reason. In my experience, they need a tricky balance of high humidity and ventilation, especially as slings. The ventilation is to prevent molds from growing in the tank (as big a killer as dehydration with this species). Older juvies and adults are more hardy, but definitely still need humidity in the cage.

Enclosure:

As an arboreal species these need more vertical space than horizontal. I house mine in a home-made plexi tank that is 8”x8” floor space and 12” vertical. This is likely the smallest size tank (I should upgrade to a larger tank). Provide a branch or something to climb on, though they may take to the walls of the enclosure. A vertical corkbark leaned against the cage offers a location for geroldis to make their tube webs behind. Mine readily makes a good bit of webbing, not just a tube. She is starting to look like an arboreal Greenbottle Blue. Her entire upper half of her enclosure is webbed up with almost a maze of tubes throughout.

Substrate:

EcoEarth (coconut husk). You may make a mix of Vermiculite and Eco Earth (75/25). From my experience, Peat Moss does cultivate molds very easily, and thus would not be recommended for this species. Avoid any Evergreen woods (Cypress, Reptile Bark) inside of the enclosure. Evergreens contain natural insecticidal oils that can harm your tarantula if exposed long enough. Isopods (rolly-polies, or pillbugs) are a good cleaner to keep in the substrate that will help reduce the risk of mold, but they require moisture. You need to watch out for mold in the tank as purpureas do not handle mold well.

Diet:

Crickets, meal worms, waxworms, super worms, Blaptica dubia or Blatta lateralis roaches. Please do not offer wild caught prey, as it may contain pesticides (and potential parasites) which can harm or kill your Tarantula. Also never feed your tarantula “kingworms” (giant meal worms) as these are meal worms that have been fed juvenile growth hormones to prevent them from maturing so they grow bigger. JGH are a common insecticide and would not be good for your invertebrate tarantula! (I received this from a personal conversation with a cricket/worm breeder near me). Furthermore, crickets and roaches are the best nutrition for tarantulas, and mealworms and superworms should be fed as treats, not as a staple.

Water:

Make sure to offer a water bowl, the size should be half the size of the species. Do not use any sponges, cotton balls or paper towel or water crystals inside of water bowl, just clean water. Small rocks may be added. If possible, mount the bowl higher in the tank rather than sitting it on the floor. I have hot-glued the bowl onto a branch halfway up the tank. Clean the water bowl once a week or when you feel it is necessary. Crickets or roaches may end up dead in the water, in which case you should clean it right away. Spiderlings are too small to have a water bowl, misting one side of the enclosure wall 1-2 times a week, should be plenty enough. Your tarantula will often fill the dish with substrate, or even poop in it, but continue to provide clean water. Also I periodically wet the substrate, allowing that to dry out completely to prevent mold growth. Moisture and humidity is important for this species.

Longevity:

Females can live up to 12 years, while males may live 3 years.

Maturity female:

2-4 years depending on how often they are fed and how warm their enclosure is kept.

Maturity male/ Tibial Apophysis:

1-2 years, which is only an estimate. / Yes, on first set of leg.

Communal Setup:

Not recommended for this species, though this has been done with little cannibalism.

Color Markings:

The Avicularia geroldi tarantula as a species is currently being disputed since no holotype has been collected and reposited in a museum for study. Many consider it a variation of Avicularia avicularia. Slings look like A. avicularia slings, with the black feet, beige legs, and red patter on the dorsal side of the abdomen. Adults are a deep blue pinktoe with near black abdomen (rather than red like A. avicularia).This is a striking and beautiful tarantula. Colors are most vivid immediately after a molt.

Special Note:

These tarantulas are moderately difficult to breed. Females lay egg sacs containing roughly 100 to 160 eggs a few months after mating. Nymphs hatch 6–8 weeks later. There is a low risk of males being eaten by the females during pairings.
Make sure never to keep a tarantula enclosure directly in the sun. No light is necessary for your tarantula's habitat. Natural lighting is perfectly fine.

Awesome care sheet, I hope it helps people I just would like to add, slings can have a little bottle cap water dish, they won't drown as they won't even break the surface tension, they can walk on water. Great guide though