SOHC Featherbed Engine Sprocket - 17T to 22T Available

SOHC Engine Sprocket (all models) for Featherbed models. Various teeth available from 18T to 22T.

These sprockets have the correct offset for aligning with the clutch sprocket of all Featherbed SOHC models, these are identifiable from the early Pre-Featherbed sprockets (Item no 0650) in that there is less boss in front of the sprocket and more at the back of the sprocket than the pre-Featherbed type. They may also fit early DOHC Manx models, if your engine has a taper fit crankshaft (i.e. not spline)

To find offset: Place ruler across front of inner boss at the front of the sprocket. The distance from the ruler face to the sprocket face for Featherbed type is: Approx 7.2 mm

To double check - see the second photograph showing the offset and compare to Item 0650 for Comparison

This listing is for one sprocket, but we have various number of teeth. If you are using your Norton Cammy for competition events, it is normal to have a range of sprockets, and then change your sprocket dependent on circuit or event. I keep a full range for my own race bikes, as well as a sprocket puller and 3 or 4 primary chains. If I am doing short sprints or hillclimbs I might use a small 17T or 18T for best initial acceleration, or taller gears for road use (i.e. 19/20/21T) or circuit racing. We also have a handful of new 23T sprockets - which I gather was Daytona gearing or longer circuit.

Select the Sprocket teeth number you require from the drop down list. If the sprocket with the number of teeth you require is not visible, we may have ran out or not have it available - in which case you can email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk

Notes for fitting sprockets: First of all, get a proper sprocket puller!, either 2 leg or 3 leg. All Norton SOHC engines were fitted with a woodruff key, which we also supply - but frankly if you have the sprocket well fitting, you probably dont need it (but you should not omit it).

If you are removing a sprocket - fit the 2 or 3 leg puller, ensuring the centre point is acting on centre of mainshaft and will not damage thread. Tighten up puller until it gets difficult to pull any more. However, the easiest method is at this point to give the end of the sprocket puller shaft a hefty clout with a copper or hide mallet sideways on! You will find it is this sideways 'jarring' that will most effectively loosen the sprocket from the taper of the mainshaft. You can keep tightening, but the sideways 'clout' is very effective.

When fitting a new sprocket - I always grind it in with valve paste first - this ensures a good fit on the taper. Just buy good quality valve seat paste off Ebay and first approx 5 mins of coarse paste on the inner face of sprocket taper and corresponding mainshaft, then switch to fine paste. When complete you should see a lovely fine grey finish across the whole surface of both matcing faces, indicating the sprocket is fully mated to mainshaft. Then a final check, place woodruff key an make sure the woodruff is not sitting proud of the slot in the sprocket - which will stop the sprocket taper fully mating with the mainshaft taper. Get this right and you will definitely need to give the sprocket puller a sideways clout to get it off!