THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Metro Brasserie & Bar Restaurant Review

: It looks like a brasserie, complete with a vintage-style tile floor, bistro chairs and tablecloths topped with butcher paper. It feels like a brasserie, attended by servers who are casual but well-trained. And it drinks like a brasserie, from Euro-chic cocktails like a French 75 or Pimm's Cup. Most importantly, it eats like a brasserie---and a fine one at that. (Would we expect anything less from hotel-restaurant maven Fred Unger?) Chef Matthew Taylor prepares his modern, often surprising takes on French classics. Dip your spoon into the standout French onion soup, capped in a bubbling blanket of cheese. Portions are large, flavors are pronounced (as in an Alsatian tart loaded with chunky bacon and Gruyère) and fat quotas aren't lacking. To wit: salmon rillettes, the fish gently cooked in fat, puréed into a buttery spread and served in a jar topped with a layer of fat. Entrées can be simple---chicken grandmere layered in bacon, spinach and potato purée---or complex, such as the braised rabbit leg and bacon-wrapped loin decorated with tangy olives and crunchy pistachios. For dessert, if you can somehow find room, indulge in hot beignets dunked in vanilla cream, raspberry and Nutella dipping sauces.