Gilchrist: Gorilla Whale an inventive collage of "Japanese-ish" style

Tilly Van Duyvendyk (middle) is joined by Dean and Brendan Symonds at the new Japanese-ish, yakitori, ramen & cocktail bar called the Gorilla Whale in Inglewood. Al Charest/PostmediaAl Charest/Postmedia

Ramen and cocktails — two of the current hot food and beverage trends. There are loads of ramen bars around town and an equal amount of places with lively cocktail “programs.” So what happens when the two concepts are combined? According to Brendan Bankowski, the man behind this unique mash-up, you get a “Japanese-ish” restaurant-lounge with eel burgers, soft-serve ice cream, inspired cocktails and an unusual name — Gorilla Whale.

The new restaurant Gorilla Whale in Inglewood has a strong rock ‘n’ roll theme, including some Sled island posters. Al Charest/PostmediaAl Charest/Postmedia

The Gorilla Whale moniker, also according to Bankowski, comes from the early days of computer translations when the name “Godzilla” was translated as “Gorilla Whale” in Japanese. Catchy.

Calgary’s Godzilla — or Gorilla Whale — is in the former Sugo space at 1214 9th Ave. S.E. (587-356-2686). (The Sugo team has moved upstairs and is focusing on their other spot — Without Papers.) Note: Gorilla Whale is slated to open next week so call ahead.

Photo by Erin MaguireCALwp

Joining Bankowski in this project is Beltliner Diner partner Dean Symonds, who was formerly operations manager at both Teatro and Mercato. Together they have reconceived the Sugo space as a light Japanese-industrial lounge trimmed in iron railings with translucent glass doors courtesy of Mercedes + Singh design shop. Dark wood covers the floors and the walls which are adorned with vintage Japanese concert posters — Bowie, Blondie, Lou Reed, even The Beatles. It’s dark and stylishly Oriental, a hot, of-the-moment look for a new place.

Photo by Erin MaguireCALwp

Heading up the kitchen is chef Dirk McCabe, formerly of Catch and Mercato and Ottawa’s Beckta. He has a strong background in Japanese cuisine and in his spare time runs Pennybuns Mushrooms, supplying farmed and foraged mushrooms to local restaurants. McCabe’s menu follows Gorilla Whale’s non-traditional Japanese theme with ramen topped with pork chops and foie gras in addition to the more typical confit pork belly, egg and corn. Bowls of clam-and-kimchi stew and skewers of oysters, chicken thighs and even duck tongues adorn the menu along with a tonkatsu burger of pork schnitzel and a Godzilla burger of charcoal-grilled beef, eel and foie gras. As they say, Japanese-ish.

Photo by Erin MaguireCalgary

Running the cocktail program is one of the best — Nathan Head, formerly of Milk Tiger. He promises drinks that will match the uniqueness of the food menu.

My prediction: Gorilla Whale will become one of the hottest places to experience over the latter half of 2018.

Partners Symonds and Bankowski met while working at Teatro where Bankowski rose through the ranks from bus boy to bar manager to “Dario wrangler.” That’s Dario Berloni, the ebullient owner of Teatro. In addition to Gorilla Whale and The Beltliner, Bankowski and Symonds are developing The Goose at 7746 Elbow Drive S.W. They hope to open a high-quality neighbourhood restaurant there — think Notable — in September.

2018 marks the 25th anniversary for Teatro, the iconic Calgary restaurant in the historic Dominion Bank building on Olympic Plaza. To celebrate the occasion, the Teatro team has put together a list of events throughout the year.

June 16: If you go by Teatro this evening, you’ll see patrons indulging in a 25-course meal showcasing the history of the restaurant. All for a delicate $275 a head, including wine pairings.

Sept. 7: East Side Dario’s at Teatro Opera Room. It’s billed as a “cheeky and fun play on Italian-American food.”

There’s also a social media contest where participants recall their favourite Teatro Group (Teatro, Cucina, Vendome, Capuccini, Al Forno, EAT, Royale) experience. The winner will receive a $2,500 gift certificate to the Teatro Group. The contest launches later this summer.

For more info on Teatro Group events and reservations, go to teatrogroup.ca.

John Gilchrist can be reached at escurial@telus.net or follow him on Twitter @GilchristJohn

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