If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. PLEASE NOTE: We use an aggressive anti spam filter! If you have trouble registering please use the "Contact Us" link below and we'll help you get registered.

John's EZ36R H6 818R Build

It's about time I started my build thread. I've been following the 818 since its beginning, waiting patiently to pull the trigger and start my next project. From the first time I saw Wayne's thread on putting in an H6, I was sold. Love the idea of a naturally aspirated torquey motor, and then there is the exhaust note. I do a number of open track events each year and my current track / street car takes a lot of abuse for it. The 818 checked all the right boxes for me as a track car.

Light weight

Easy to work on

Inexpensive parts

Able to be built in my garage

Having 165k on the donor, I found many of the donor parts to be unusable so I have been replacing and rebuilding as I go. You find all kinds of cool stuff, like busted teeth in the transmission .trans.jpg

Test Fitting EZ36R

Luckily I can install / remove the motor trans combo in a few minutes which makes it easy to do trial and error stuff.
I will be using STI Group N motor and transmission mounts. The motor mounts will require custom plates to join the block to the rubber mounts.

Frame Mods for EZ36R

Like others on the forum that are installing an EZ36R or an EZ30R, modifications are needed. Some have moved the engine trans combo back ~ 1 in. but I decided to notch out the frame where the cam phasers hit the frame. This will allow me to use an STI 6 speed in the future if I need too.

After doing much research I decided to use the Cadillac calipers and STI rotors for both the front and rear of the 818R! I used the kit mentioned in the nasioc thread to mount the front calipers and fabricated mounting brackets for the rear.

Best part is that now I have the same calipers, brake pads, and rotors for the front and rear. I only need one of each as spares!

You have good skills. Now if you can figure out how to dry sump the EZ36 I will be eternally indebted to you.

Funny you should say that, I am starting off with an Accusump and will closely monitor the pressures during testing. If I see that it is not sufficient I plan to fabricate a dry sump pan and build a scavenge only system, similar to what you guys have done for the EJ's. I'll definitely post info if that comes about!

Custom rear brake caliper brackets

Originally Posted by longislandwrx

awesome rear brakes! any more pictures of your brackets? I am doing the same but with wilwood calipers/rotors

I posted this in different thread, but here they are again to keep this all in one thread. They were very easy to fabricate, 3/16 in. plate for the bracket with the holes and 1/4 in. plate for the caliper mounting ears.

Looks awesome and I'm sure it will work well. I'm using the Subaru 4/2 pots with factory master cylinder and pedals and am not happy at all with the brake performance. Have been spending a lot of time trying to tune and adjust the brakes to get them to my liking and am still not there yet. Hope this setup works well for you.

I'm using the Subaru 4/2 pots with factory master cylinder and pedals and am not happy at all with the brake performance.

I did a lot of analysis on the 4/2 pots and the ATS-V swap prior to pulling the trigger. The 4/2 pots are all wrong for the balance of the 818 compared to the WRX. I found a great online brake bias calculator and ran the stock 4/2 pots and the ATS-V brembo brakes.

Turns out, with my Wilwood pedal setup, the 4/2 pots are way to front biased and the ATS-V brembos are almost perfect. If you are interested I can post the results.

Sure, I would be interested in seeing it. The only issue is that the wilwood pedal setup is expensive and would require a lot of re-work for me at this point. I also don't think it would work with my ABS setup (or really any ABS setup). I'd really like to keep the ABS.

I just checked out the calculator and noticed that there is nothing in there factoring the leverage on the pedal (IE where the foot pad is vs where the pushrod is). I would think that would change your numbers substantially, though probably inconsequential for calculating front to rear bias.

Stock Fuel Pump Assembly w/Hydramat

To avoid fuel starve I am going to try the Holley Hydramat. This one connects directly to the Walbro 255 replacement pump I purchased so no adapters needed. I quickly learned that the FFR tank is to short to fit the stock fuel pump hanger, much less one with a Hydramat attached. Time for the modifications!

I cut off the bottom section of the pump hanger and welded on a spring loaded radiator clamp to hold the fuel pump in a position perpendicular to the tank bottom. This made it so the Hyrdramat sits perfectly flat against the tank floor.

I then used small magnets and some safety wire to craft hold downs for the ends of the Hydramat to keep it as close the the bottom of the tank as possible. With the fuel pump hanger assembly completed I was just able to get it into the tank without bending anything.

I like it too! I think this is a better solution than a surge tank with all the additional plumbing, pump and wiring. It's also rare that anyone will need more than a stock or common upgrade, in-tank pump can do.

Thanks Wayne, that means a lot. I always follow your posts with great admiration.

Originally Posted by Scargo

I like it too! I think this is a better solution than a surge tank with all the additional plumbing, pump and wiring. It's also rare that anyone will need more than a stock or common upgrade, in-tank pump can do.

I also like the simplicity and compact packaging of using this system instead of an external swirl pot. I hope the Hydramat performs as well as expected.

I like the hydramat hold-down idea so much I may copy it.... though I might use bar magnets directly on top of the hydramat in an effort to pin it to the tank instead of using safety wire. I dunno if strong magnets will be strong enough but I guess I will soon see. Also, big thanks for posting the picture of it in the tank!!! In my head, I remember the small in-tank baffle being much closer to the pickup, and I also forgot that the attachment point of the hydramat is not centered - I was concerned the hydramat wouldn't fit due to the baffle being in the way and that I'd have to pound the baffle flat but then worried about it's edge cutting into the hydramat over time. Guess I don't have to worry about that!

I will be interested in seeing if this solves starvation issues on the track. If it doesn't, you can always add a surge tank later (like I am doing). The Radium surge tank offers a version with a built-in fuel pressure regulator which substantially cuts down on the plumbing and keeps things really clean. It's very expensive though.

I like the hold down trick too, though I'm going to spring for the aluminum Boyd tank, so the magnets won't work. Holly has an epoxy based hold down, but I not sure if I trust it or more accurately my skill in installing it. Lol I wonder if Biyd would weld in aluminum studs or bolts to the bottom to secure the mat.

Next I grabbed some 1 1/2" angle iron and some plate steel, both 3/16" thick. Measuring and getting the angles correct was the hardest part. The FFR mounting tabs are angled inward ~21 degrees and pitched forward ~10 degrees. This required a compound bend in the flat plate to attach to the third mounting point on the EZ36R block.IMG_20170126_163537.jpg

To avoid fuel starve I am going to try the Holley Hydramat. This one connects directly to the Walbro 255 replacement pump I purchased so no adapters needed. I quickly learned that the FFR tank is to short to fit the stock fuel pump hanger, much less one with a Hydramat attached. Time for the modifications!

I cut off the bottom section of the pump hanger and welded on a spring loaded radiator clamp to hold the fuel pump in a position perpendicular to the tank bottom. This made it so the Hyrdramat sits perfectly flat against the tank floor.

I then used small magnets and some safety wire to craft hold downs for the ends of the Hydramat to keep it as close the the bottom of the tank as possible. With the fuel pump hanger assembly completed I was just able to get it into the tank without bending anything.

Seats mounted

Finally got both seats mounted in the car. Now I can finalize the steering column position and adjust the pedals. I put the driver seat on universal sliding rails I got off eBay. They give me 3 1/2" of travel, from the front lower cross bar to the rear firewall. Not a ton of adjustment, but every little bit helps. I mounted both seat as low in the chassis as I could.

The passenger seat is non adjustable as it touches the front lower cross bar and is only 1/2" off the rear firewall.

Quick Update

I've been working on the shifter and cable system. I am using the optional aluminum FFR shifter but running the cables straight back. This required fabricating two bell cranks to reverse the cable push/pull direction so the transmission shift pattern is preserved.

Optional FFR aluminium shifter with cables straight back

I purchased the optional K-tuned FFR aluminum shifter from another forum member and really love the looks and operation, it really is art. However, the forward facing cable layout FFR uses leaves much to be desired. After reading many MR2 shifter conversion threads, I decided to do my own rear facing cable conversion using my FFR aluminum shifter. Initially I was going to turn the shifter backwards and go from there, but I decided to leave it facing forward. Either way would require dual bell cranks to change the direction of throw for the forward and side motion so the transmission shift pattern would be normal.

I then cut the front of the shifter off to make room for my Wilwood brake adjuster; made a new base plate and started fitting the bell cranks. Each bell crank has three adjustment locations for the cable and shifter connection allowing a large amount of adjustment for shift throw. The final cable routing allows for an almost straight shot back to the transmission. I am also using Mechie's rear bell crank to eliminate the large loop for the twisting motion of the shift shaft. My new cables will only need to be 70" total length!

The bell cranks are made from 1/4" aluminum plate with 5/16" Oilite bronze bushings pressed into the pivot for smooth operation.

That's very slick. Can you speak to your decision to reverse the direction at the shifter vs doing it at the tranny, where you would have only one reversal bellcrank required.
I vote for the clevises. Where did you get the clevises... McMaster-Carr?

That's very slick. Can you speak to your decision to reverse the direction at the shifter vs doing it at the tranny, where you would have only one reversal bellcrank required.
I vote for the clevises.

I had already purchased Zero Decibel's rear bell crank shifter kit and did not want to waste it! Plus it would still have required two bell cranks in the rear as I would have needed to eliminate the large loop that FFR uses for the twisting motion of the shift shaft. My cables are now very short and almost completely straight making for a very precise shift feel.

I had already purchased Zero Decibel's rear bell crank shifter kit and did not want to waste it! Plus it would still have required two bell cranks in the rear as I would have needed to eliminate the large loop that FFR uses for the twisting motion of the shift shaft. My cables are now very short and almost completely straight making for a very precise shift feel...
No e-brake as this is track only car and I am using front brake rotors on the rear (no parking brake inner drum).

I could have said, "Because Race Car!" for you...
I understand now since you had that nifty stuff from Zero Decibel. Still, it could be done with one bellcrank mounted on the bracket in the back for the shaft "in and out". I have the S2K shifter I will mod for mine.

The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the TheFactoryFiveForum.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by TheFactoryFiveForum.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. TheFactoryFiveForum.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the TheFactoryFiveForum.com.Copyright 2011 Factory Five Racing, Inc. All rights reserved. COBRA is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company. The Factory Five Forum is not connected to the holders of this mark. The Factory Five Forum is not connected in any way to Carroll Shelby.