This is a discussion on Reliable but powerful 2012 WRX mods within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; it would obviously be tuned with the headers on the car.. so i dont see why u say that...

it would obviously be tuned with the headers on the car.. so i dont see why u say that

Because earlier you said you were going to put EL headers and keep the same tune. Headers change the volumetric efficiency of the engine.. you could possibly get away with running the same tune, but just because you can do something doesn't mean you should.

It's hard to say really.. which ELH are you thinking about getting? Some are better than others.

If I just had to guess numbers I would say +10-15hp in the mid range with a good ELH and stock catback vs. just the TBE and tune. I would go ahead and install a good intake if money is not a major concern.. also a 3-port EBCS would be good to have for not much more investment.

ok, i would be looking to get one of the better elh's. ive seen the nameless ones before.. are they any good? if not, any suggestions? and i was thinking an intake may be helpful at this point. and if you could tell me what a 3 port ebcs is, i would greatly appreciate it haha. also, do mods like this affect the reliability of the motor much? for i am still under warranty and dont want to be too dumb with the mods i do.. i am going to stay on top of maintaining the engine, oil change every 3500 miles prob.

I know Invidia and Perrin both make good ELH.. then there are the Killer B Motorsports Holly headers which are arguably the best, but cost $1300.

On your car an intake will help at any point (but absolutely must be tuned for). A 3-port EBCS will replace your stock boost controller and just be more responsive.. quicker, more stable boost control (and must be tuned for).

Those mods, as long as the tune is good and safe, shouldn't really adversely effect the reliability of the car. Obviously the more power the car makes the more stress on components, brightest flame burns quickest, etc. But it's not something I would personally worry about. Any power modifications, like exhaust, intake, tune, etc, can (and likely will) be used by the dealership as grounds to deny an engine warranty claim.. but that boat has already sailed at this point anyways. Good tune, and good maintenance, and you should be fine.

thanks for the quick response, and im planning on getting a tune by precision tuning (ive heard good things) and the tune will be for all of the mods at once.. also the 3 port ebcs sounds like a very wise choice here. How much do they cost? Ive read a few things on intakes also but which would be the best for the money in your opinion? (you seem to know your stuff with these cars) and of course everything i find out on here i would speak with my tuner before purchasing. I wanna make sure I do everything correctly on this car, and when i say correctly i really mean perfectly. Thats why i ask so many questions, Thanks -Kyle

thanks for the quick response, and im planning on getting a tune by precision tuning (ive heard good things) and the tune will be for all of the mods at once.. also the 3 port ebcs sounds like a very wise choice here. How much do they cost? Ive read a few things on intakes also but which would be the best for the money in your opinion? (you seem to know your stuff with these cars) and of course everything i find out on here i would speak with my tuner before purchasing. I wanna make sure I do everything correctly on this car, and when i say correctly i really mean perfectly. Thats why i ask so many questions, Thanks -Kyle

I just sent this to a person asking for my help with DIY tuning, factoring a car that is stock + DP + S2 tune...

If I were to give you an ordered list of things to buy (staying with the stock turbo):
1) Gauges (Boost / WBO2 minimum, EGT as a potential third) / Pod
2) TMIC / BPV
3) ELH (at which point, you may as well get it tapped for EGT before you put it on the car) / CBE
4) Complete intake tract (inlet, MAF, intake) / ID1000s and a fuel pump (obviously, get the injectors dialed in, then install the intake parts)
5) Hybrid boost control (only listing this before #6 because it's cheap, and would rather run the hybrid setup with EWG than stock boost control)
6) TGV deletes (turbo inlet is much easier to install during this install, if you wanted to do all together) / EWG

#1: It's important to know what's going on with the engine
#2: A quality TMIC will offer better cooling, and lower pressure drop. Expect to be able to throw 2PSI more MRP and an additional degree of timing with the same safety margin compared to a typical S2 setup
#3: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...8&postcount=18
#4: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2112090
#5: It's relatively inexpensive (GM BCS $30-40, Hallman Pro RX $120)
#6: TGVs help with both throttle response, overall power, and VE; EWG simulates a large turbo hotside, and Subaru motors love them

Pair #3/#4 together, and you get the midrange of the ELH, plus the top-end of the intake/injectors (and then some, since you'll have the ELH helping you out). If you notice, the graph in #3 thread tends to taper down similar to the regular S2 mapping, which is most likely due to IDCs, which is negated by #4. #5 is only before #6 because it's better to tune an EWG with aftermarket boost control, and #5 is relatively cheap.

If I were to give you an ordered list of things to buy (staying with the stock turbo):
1) Gauges (Boost / WBO2 minimum, EGT as a potential third) / Pod
2) TMIC / BPV
3) ELH (at which point, you may as well get it tapped for EGT before you put it on the car) / CBE
4) Complete intake tract (inlet, MAF, intake) / ID1000s and a fuel pump (obviously, get the injectors dialed in, then install the intake parts)
5) Hybrid boost control (only listing this before #6 because it's cheap, and would rather run the hybrid setup with EWG than stock boost control)
6) TGV deletes (turbo inlet is much easier to install during this install, if you wanted to do all together) / EWG

Follow this and you can't go wrong. It adds up cost wise, but all together should provide you with a very streetable, fun to drive setup without getting into too much reliability issues. You're not going to make big power, but definitely fun to drive.. add e85 in the mix and it will make gobbs of torque.

I've ran a similar setup on my car before and it was great for daily driving.

As far as which intake to get.. I haven't done much research into 3rd gen intakes. I know AEM makes a good CAI and I am fairly confident in their products, no experience with it though.

ok, ya thats gonna be a lot more money then i was originally looking to spend hah. I definitely have some research to do.. i was thinking getting a boost guage and an intercooler wouldnt be bad ideas at this point, along with injectors.. but apparently i missed a few things haha

I don't know if you are interested, but look over at my build thread (not trying to market myself - but I wish I saw one like mine before building) - Tanker's TurboSnail: I choose you!.

I put a lot of time and research into the items I bought, and I am generally happy with their quality and performance (except the Perrin CAI, I should have gotten the AEM CAI for the heat shield - but I'm fabbing one up this weekend). I list my thoughts on the items too. It could prove helpful in your search.

And listen to mainframe and EJ257, they know their stuff.

I dynoed at 325/385, which I think is more like 300/350 on a moderate Mustang dyno with my build. I drive it everyday, rain or shine, and it's an awesome set up - it's basically what I think the car should have come with in stock form.

Basically, at my level and how I drive, I could go E85, EWG, injectors, etc, but I have a serious feeling that any more power will make me need a new clutch.

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