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Got my Asok Jango ILM lid a few days ago ,Impresive most impresive , IT TOOK ONLY 10 DAYS! from payment to posesion and that includes making it sending it from the U.S to Aus then customs , thats unheard of in my experiance any way ,
I got in to work on it trimed her down sanded out the seem in the dome, managed to get rid off it compleatlysorry about the double pics

Biggest advice on a cold-cast is just make sure you don't OVER sand the silver areas, cause what will happen is the the silver powdered resin will rubb away, revealing standard fiberglass, that can ruin the entire finish. I use a 00 steel wool to "polish" it, and it works very well. Other than that, enjoy your build. LMK if you need any help!

Thanx for the advise iv never worked with a cc lid before,i was very nervous when removing the seam on the dome from the molding but it was a throw up between keeping the seam or removing it and risk going to far i think i just skimed by,
What are your thorts on rub n buff over c,c is that a done thing or a wast of time and efort when the cc is there any way, coz the real jango was rub,n,buffed i ask this question id like to make this as close to the real thing as posible

IF you look at ATOC fight seen in the rain the water beads up on all the armour parts helmet included so there for i thort it was R,N,BD but now i think about it any well most pollishes would cause this to happen, And also on utube there is a film with pits off the filming of the film and you see Temora trying on the suit pre pro and it is clearly under coated in grey primer ,Plus I know some people who worked on the set an i was told it was rnb, , mind you they did not work in the props or wardrobe department. So that is not definitive to any thing but id does make me wonder

IF you look at ATOC fight seen in the rain the water beads up on all the armour parts helmet included so there for i thort it was R,N,BD but now i think about it any well most pollishes would cause this to happen, And also on utube there is a film with pits off the filming of the film and you see Temora trying on the suit pre pro and it is clearly under coated in grey primer ,Plus I know some people who worked on the set an i was told it was rnb, , mind you they did not work in the props or wardrobe department. So that is not definitive to any thing but id does make me wonder

You also have to understand that the suit used for that fight scene was mostly a stunt suit. This is obvious when he's hanging over the edge of the structure and cuts obiwan loose. You can clearly see his chest armor bending in an unusual manner that would make it appear as a rubber material. I've only used rub and buff on a cc helmet only because there was too much pitting that needed to be filled as it was a less than perfect cast I was working with.

Thanx Tuba thats a very valid point i had not taken in to acount the stunt armour witch would not b C.C.
It all makes sense.
On anther note does any one know the RAL codes for the jango blues

I can't say if you can get the same paints over in sydney as I can get here, but I've always used the same two colors/paints: Rustolium Royal Blue and Krylon Short Cut's Ocean blue. Krylon had changed their paint formula to be "green" , and it became a REAL PITA on my last commission. Once you get it on there right, it looks amazing!

As for other brands, well, I can't say what's out there aside from mixing your own :/

Unfortunanly Rustolium are hard to come by in Aus and krylons even harder but there are plenty of other good paints an ive been stocking up on every blue i can find ,ive got afew that are a very good match but if i can get the colour codes then i can have the cans coustom made for about 18 bucks each. Or i could get the colours in paint pots and air brush them on.

Unfortunanly Rustolium are hard to come by in Aus and krylons even harder but there are plenty of other good paints an ive been stocking up on every blue i can find ,ive got afew that are a very good match but if i can get the colour codes then i can have the cans coustom made for about 18 bucks each. Or i could get the colours in paint pots and air brush them on.

True that. My biggest advice would to just keep looking at reference pics and the like for the colors to try and match. If I were home, I'd spray some samples of both to send to you to help you match, but I won't be back home at least until around christmas time. You'd need at least a physical sample, and I say that because the references with throw you through loops and leave you pulling out your hair. It's because the two shades of blue are never in the same lighting, and this drastically affects their appearence. I can tell you that in bright flash, for example, the lighter blue on the mandibles will appear an almost aqua green, and will look nothing like that in natural light. Check out some of my old WIP threads, I usually post pics under natural light, but I do throw in a few with flash.

Thanx Tuba If its not to much trouble that would be great , its one thing to have ref pics on the computer its another thave colour samples in your hand , As we all know seeing the colors in real life is ten fold to trying to derive the right colours from a screen in every pic depending on the lighting the colour changes, And there is know rush at all id rather get it right the first time with this lid then get it wrong and repaint it ten times,
Thnx

i'm going to be starting work on a new jango helmet for a member soon. if you'd like i can spray some of each on a sheet of paper for you. pm me your address if you'd like me to do that for you when i get to the painting on the helmet.

as for sanding, you don't need to be too gentle on the asok lid. there are a couple places you will sand through no matter what, the rest you can pretty much abuse. the spots where it gets this is that booger on the front that sits just above where you right eye will be when wearing the helmet, the other is on the seam just behind the right ear. both places aren't terrible because you can blend them in with the weathering that goes around the band.

I would agree R-n-B on a CC is not needed... it might even ruin the finish (or look uneven)

With my Asok, I didn't sand down far enough either for fear of taking the CC off. The seam still showed from the mold, so what I did was I sanded a little bit and then thoroughly mixed aluminum powder with superglue and used a popsicle stick to apply across the seam... I made it a little thick so I could sand down to the same level as the rest of the helmet... when this dried I sanded (320 grit, 400 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, 2000 grit... yes a little over-kill, but I wanted it smooth) and then I used 0000 steel wool and shined it all up... it didn't come out too bad and matched pretty good

So far ive goten rid of the seems and i use that sanding method from 240 all the way to 1800 grit plus every grand in between its the only way to go imo there wre a couple and i do mean only 2 small bubles that exposed the purple rebound coat , andim going to use a simler method to your glue powder but instead of glue ill use a dab of procast its aa 2 part polyurethane resin mixed with aluiminium powda

Well after much procrastonation a hole of difrent blue spray paints and many other projects i am workin on i desided to nock this puppy over this is were im at right now just put the spipeson these are 3 ml stripings witch is just a hair thiner than the impirial system mesurement pin stipping that came with this gem i personaly think this is a closser adaptation to the pin stripping that is seen in the film thats just my opinion i also purchassed 17 difrent blue sprays to find the closest colours Id like to know what sopme jango experts think of my work so far , Thanx