Documentation
(the first six links are from the first post in the old thread, most useful dimensions can be found in the architectural (CAD) drawings, carton size and packed weight are in the brochures)

Q. What's the difference between the KRP and the other Kuros?
a. The KRP is most similar to the Signature. The specifics can be found in the comparison thread. Notably it has two fewer HDMI inputs, a one year warranty and does not ship with ISFccc modes available. It does have a two channel nine watt audio amplifier. Like all other Kuro monitors the KRPs do not ship with a stand.

Q. Why did Pioneer enable ISFccc on the KRP in the rest of the world?
a. Pioneer marketing is mysterious but the KRP takes the place of the Signature in the rest of the world.

Q. Is the 500M really as good as a Signature 101FD?
a. They have similar picture quality (PQ) and similar capabilities. They share certain critical components specifically the plasma display module. The model specifics can be found in the Kuro Comparison thread.

Q. Is the 500M really better than the 60" Elite (151) or 60" Signature (141)?
a. It's newer and is reported to have some improvements.

Q. Where's the power button?
a. There's a power (mains) button on the left side of the bottom edge and a standby button on the right side of the bottom edge (500M) or the lower right side (600M) as shown on page seven of the manual. Both directions are as you face the front. The KRP comes boxed with the power button in the off setting.

Q. I heard the KRPs get quite hot or give off a lot of heat during use. Is that true?
a. They are warmer than some other plasmas particularly with very bright content. Such content is said to have a high average picture level (APL). Typical 500M glass surface temperature is about 105F.

Q. I understand plasma televisions use a lot of power. How much?
a. The KRP-500M averages 250W and peaks around 400W. Power consumption is determined by APL and the energy saving options.

Q. I've never seen/heard my fans running. Are they broken?
a. No one has reported fans running other than when the panel is in forced fan mode (see the integrator documentation). Presumably the threshold is well above the human comfort level.

Q. I heard that the KRP buzzes, what's that about?
a. Many Kuros have a buzz that comes from the glass itself. This is due to the way they work and the way they're made. This is discussed on the Buzz thread. The buzz is a function of APL and can be reduced or eliminated using the Energy Save 2 mode. Not all panels buzz and/or not everyone hears the buzz.

Q. I hear that plasma displays are subject to burn-in and need to be treated carefully.
a. This is an area of complexity and contention. Particularly when considering the Kuro. First it's important to understand what can happen. As your plasma is used it produces less and less light. This is called aging. Under normal circumstances the glowing phosphors should last for tens of thousands of hours. However if you use part of your display a great deal more than other parts, e.g. by watching material that has a black border or has static images like channel logos, the used phosphors will be dimmer than the unused phosphors. In some cases this will be visible in full-screen programs as the formerly dark areas are now brighter or the static image areas are dimmer. This is known as uneven phosphor aging. A separate issue is temporary image retention (IR). IR is by definition temporary but it can last a surprisingly long time. The so-called video pattern is intended to remove IR. That may not always be the best thing to do and dim (10%) full-field patterns may be more helpful. xrox talks about dealing with Kuro IR in inverse areas. By the way, the D-Nice panel aging (break-in) procedure is not intended to prevent or reduce IR or uneven aging.

Q. Why did Pioneer include a web interface? It seems useless.
a. The web interface has some utility but for day to day operations your remote is superior. You cannot use the standard remote to check hours (see Service Remote below). Something everyone (impatiently waiting for their panel aging/break-in to finish) wants to do.

Q. How can I check my usage time (hours on), power count, serial number or retrieve the SD/PD Failure code?
a. You have to configure your KRP for network access, attach it to a network or directly to a PC and then open this link: http://<krp>/cgi/service_right.cgi where <krp> is replaced with the IP address of your KRP -- EZ Hours. You can also check the hours with jdbimmer's KuroReader program (see below) and via the serial port with Chelsea_Fan's piotime.

Q. Why was the KRP so much less expensive than the equivalent Signature model?
a. Pioneer marketing is mysterious.

Q. Can I use speaker X with my KRP?
a. There are standard speakers and "compatible" speakers. Please note that the official speakers are side mounted not undermount.
1) The official 500M speaker is the KRP-S04. RichB mounted 111FD Speakers on a 500M
2) The official 600M speaker is the KRP-S02. SoSo notes here that 151FD speakers brackets fit the 600M. Tim Mcune mounted SMW-2026A 151FD speakers on a 600M. NateTTU suggests a spacer for 151FD speakers for a flush mount.
Most high efficiency (> 90dB) third party speakers should be a good choice. Some examples: Klipsch B-2 or B-3 Synergy and BIC America DV62si. Pioneer rates the KRP-S02 and KRP-S04 at 80dB sensitivity so almost any 6-8 ohm speaker should be acceptable.

Q. Can I connect powered speakers or other line-level input (an AVR, soundbars, PC speakers etc.) to the speaker outputs?
a. It's unwise to make a direct connection. A level converter is normally required. Search (google) for "speaker level line level converter" for more choices.

Q. Can I use stand Y with my KRP?
a. There are standard mounts and "compatible" mounts. Pioneer does not publish a comprehensive compatibility list. The mounting dimensions are in the architectural drawings here: 101FD/500M and 141FD/600M.
1) The official 500M stand is the KRP-TS02. Other Pioneer choices include the PDK-TS23 (manual). Note that the commonly available KRP-TS02PM is not made by Pioneer. The TS02 is made in Japan, comes (nicely wrapped) in a Kuro box and is made of the same/a similar acrylic as the bezel. The front portion matches the bezel and the rear portion is dull. The TS02PM is made of a dull finish sheet metal that has a slight texture. Both stands are quite light compared to the TS23 but the "base" of the stand isn't structural and all the weight is carried by the legs.
2) The official 600M stand is the KRP-TS01. Other Pioneer choices include most stands for 60" panels such as the PDK-TS30, TS30A, TS35A, and the 1015.
Usage reports imply that the 60" 9G Kuros should accept all the same stands. Here's a report of using a 151 stand on a 141 and a picture of a 600M on PDK-1015. If you have a metal cutting miter saw and a drill press you can shorten a 6020 stand to eliminate the "chicken leg" look (the 6020 stand has space for a bottom mounted speaker).

Q. Are there better sources than Pioneer for speakers and stands?
a. People have reported success on Ebay but suitable parts for the 600M, particularly stands, seem hard to come by.

Q. If there's no tuner how do I get over the air broadcasts?
a. Although not plentiful there are some stand-alone NTSC/ATSC over the air (OTA) tuners and DVRs. They are tracked in the HDTV sub-forum in the Set Top Box (STB) thread. Typical examples include any High Def TiVo, the KWORLD tuner, the Centronics ZAT502 HD or other ATSC terrestrial tuner that has composite, component, DVI or VGA output with the requisite audio output or HDMI. DirecTV HD DVR users can use the AM-21 tuner.

Q. I can't find the KRP in my list of universal remote codes. What should I use?
a. The 101FD/141FD monitors have compatible commands. The Pioneer hex codes and those derived from them (e.g. URC) have an error in the discrete size/aspect ratio commands. info_dan posted corrected versions here in the 141 thread.

Q. The service menu access method from previous generation Pioneer plasmas doesn't work. How do you access the service menu in a KRP?
a. The simplest method is with a GGF1633 or GGF1589 service remote. If you have Proto-fu you can use this hex code.

Q. I set my input to Auto but when I select an HDMI source that uses RGB signals the picture looks washed out. Why?
a. There's a bug in the RGB input range (quantization) selection. You can force it to the video range (RGB 16-235) or change the source to use Y'CbCr. The problem is noted here and here among other places. Here's a pithy response and a note from a non-native English speaker at Pioneer. For a more in-depth look at level matching and why things look too light, too dark or have a green or magenta overlay etc. check out this lengthy explanation of levels. Note that mixing certain devices on the same port (5 or 6) via a switch or AVR may cause problems. If you have a free DVI/HDMI port you can split the output of your AVR to two KRP ports and set one to AUTO and the other to RGB 16-235. This requires a powered splitter that supports HDMI 1.3. Vendors include Gefen, Monoprice and J&R Galaxies. Using two HDMI ports is simpler than one HDMI and the DVI port. Also see The Unexpected section below.

Q. What's Y'CbCr?
a. Y'CbCr* is a way to represent and compress the RGB color information the panel displays. It's the native representation for DVD and Blu-ray discs. Industry abbreviations include YCC, YCbCr, YPbPr, Y'PbPr and YUV. These may also be modified by compression specifics such as 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4:2:0. In the KRP documents and menus Pioneer uses YUV444 and YUV422 while e.g. Oppo uses YCbCr 4:4:4 or YCbCr 4:2:2. Clearly the intent is to make color space configuration an adventure. *More correctly it's a family of color spaces with useful characteristics.

Q. Then why don't we always use Y'CbCr?
a. Sometimes it's not available but even if it is it may not be the best choice due to player or AVR deficiencies.

Q. Speaking of Y'CbCr what are the right settings for my PS3?
a. The PS3 FAQ video section discusses this at length but note the RGB bug above. Specific examples are found in the Examples section where those recommendations are summarized and here's a specific multi-component example. An alternate and more conservative approach for video range inputs (television, DVD, BD) at the expense of games is here. There is further commentary here.

Q. How can I connect my non-HDMI XBox?
a. The KRP has both component and VGA inputs although component is preferred. Available resolutions are shown on page 100 of the KRP manual. Note that protected content typically requires an HDMI connection for 1080p and DVD conversion is limited to 480p. Commentary here.

Q. Should I scale/deinterlace in my source device, my audio-video receiver (AVR) or in the KRP?
a. If you have a Blu-ray player the Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark disc can help you determine which component in the DVD video path should be used to rescale/deinterlace your source material. Otherwise you may be able to find a copy of the discontinued HQV Benchmark on DVD. If your AVR is better than the KRP that's probably true for non-DVD sources as well.

Q. Which Pure Cinema mode is correct?
a. I believe this is considered an accurate table of frame rates. To summarize: Off and Smooth are 60Hz, Standard follows the input (60->60, 24->72) and Advance is 72Hz except for 1080p/60.

Q. Should I use the D-Nice panel aging (break-in) process? Can I watch regular programming while running his procedure?
a. If you want to use the D-Nice 500M reference settings you should use the D-Nice panel aging protocol. There are currently no 600M reference settings and there are no Signature ISFccc reference settings. If you can't or won't use the D-Nice settings or your KRP will be calibrated then you don't need to follow his procedure. The documented procedure doesn't say you can deviate by watching other content and further postings say follow the procedure to a "T".

Q. Who's D-Nice?
a. World renown D-Nice is a well known calibrator and Pioneer bon vivant. As a public service he publishes settings for a variety of Pioneer (and other) TVs for folks that are unable to have their Kuro calibrated.

Q. What is ISFccc?
a. The Imaging Science Foundation is in the Display Standards industry, and is dedicated to improving the quality of electronic imaging. They explain and demonstrate calibration procedures. ISF ccc is a Certified Calibration Configuration which provides tools in the monitor to assist the calibrator. ISFccc mode selects one of those configurations. In the case of a Kuro ISFccc modes most obviously allow a very bright image with a specific set of characteristics. This article highlights ISFccc versus Pure. The ISFccc modes in all Kuro displays can be configured using ControlCAL. There are two tools to enable and manipulate ISFccc modes on the KRP ControlCAL and KuroControl.

Q. Are there any differences between the ISFccc modes?
a. Not between day and night. Auto always uses the light sensor but in a light controlled environment that effect can be minimized. Day and Night are just labels and night could be the bright one or they could be identical except for e.g. the Pure Cinema mode.

Q. Okay, I want a calibration. Where can I start looking for a calibrator?
a. Turbe maintains a tagged list of Pioneer calibrators here, patched KRP calibrators here and Pioneer owner reports here. htwaits logs customer reports about their professional calibration here.

Q. What is blue-only mode?
a. Blue Only Mode (BOM) is used instead of a blue filter to adjust the color decoder using the COLOR and TINT controls. Typical color/tint setting patterns result in a color setting that is too high e.g. it's unlikely that COLOR should be more than +5. BOM produces results that are about 10% too high but this error should be consistent while filter error is unpredictable.

Q. Which gamma setting gives the best performance?
a. 2.2 or 2.3 are the most commonly used but it depends on ambient lighting. Here's a set of measurements. Based on these one would use 2 or 1. Most published settings use 2.

Q. How can I save my settings in case of error, human or otherwise?
a. jdbimmer has written KuroReader, a program that, among other things, will retrieve your settings and save them and has a number of advantages over using a browser to connect to the KRP web server. xsciv4ce has written KuroControl which will save, restore and manipulate all of the image parameters. Both are Windows programs for Elite monitors (500M, 600M, 101FD and 141FD). KuroReader currently only connects via the network.

Q. My KRP looks fine but it won't power up. What's wrong?
a. The KRP displays have both a power switch (mechanical interruption of the AC input) and a standby switch (which duplicates the power button on the remote).
As shipped from the factory the power switch is off.

Q. Why is there no output from the audio port?
a. There is no line level audio output. The two audio ports are INPUTS.

Q You say there's an RGB bug but it's not affecting me. Why is that?
a. Although the KRP normally uses the IT (0-255) RGB colorspace independent of the actual type (IT or CE) it does honor explicit RGB indicators in the video stream. Unfortunately most devices don't supply those indicators since they're optional and pass-through devices can strip those bits. At least one Sony BD player, at least one PS3 (with unknown firmware) and an AVR that are known to set those indicators which enables correct colorspace selection.

Q. My settings are reverting to default/My settings reverted to default/One of my settings reverted to default -- why?
a. There are a few common causes for this.

Reset will restore all settings to factory default.

Per resolution effects often look like random resets. Settings are per signal type and some sources change according to content. E.g. a DVR that supports native channel resolution.

Integrator mode resets all settings per page 12 of the Integrators manual.

Memory overflow will cause the ninth set of settings to push out the first. Referenced here -- probably sourced from page 24 in the Integrators manual.

Q. Signal type?
a. Non-ISFccc settings are stored per input and per signal type where the signal type is characterized by colorspace (YUV/RGB), resolution (1080p/720p/etc.) and framerate(60/24). ISFccc settings are stored per input.

What does that mean?
a. When using the component input there are two choices for color decoding: Comp.1 means the SD gamut (colloquially known as Rec. 601) and Comp.2 means the HD BT-709 gamut (aka Rec. 709). The color differences are subtle. This is not related to the Colorspace option in the Picture settings.

Q. There are no ISFccc controls documented in the Kuro manuals but I see a password protected link on the web interface. Are there controls in the web interface and can I get to them?
a. When enabled certain ISFccc information can be viewed and changed using the web interface at http:///cgi/isf.cgi where is replaced with the name or IP address of your KRP.

Q. What's that white/black/jagged bit at the edge of the panel?
a. If it looks like the attached image it's normal.

Q. When my (BD/DVD) player is (on/connected) I can't change the input. Why?
a. If you've enabled Kuro Link (HDMI CEC/AV.link) the source device may be controlling the input selection see Control Equipment with the Panel's Remote Through HDMI in the Operations Manual.

I have a question about 50p on the US panels (500m here). I wonder at what rate is the screen refreshing when input 50p (HTPC). With 25 fps videos, those are clearly less jerky than when I have the graphics set at 60p (jerky) or 24p (dropped frame, apparently).

The curious thing is that at 60 Hz refresh (60p), I can see a bit of flicker. When the screen refreshes at 72 Hz (24p) though, flicker is completely gone. But with 50p, I don't see flicker. If the screen was refreshing at 50 Hz, I'd expect to see more flicker than at 60 Hz, but the image is solid.

I suspect that with 50p, the screen is refreshing at 75 Hz, or at 100 Hz? Is this possible?

I have a tivo, xbox 360 and a ps3 all hooked up through a receiver. Currently when playing PS3 and Xbox games I have to switch the kuro to rgb (16-235) mode to get the correct black levels. Then when I switch back to the tivo, I have to switch the kuro back to auto mode.

Since all sources are hooked up to the receiver, it makes things a bit complicated. Anyone in a similar situation and has developed a workaround?

I wish you could assign the input mode (auto, ycc, rgb) to a resolution

There are solutions to this problem. I don't know what your constraints are but I suspect most of the solution space exceeds them. You could provide more information about what you're willing to do and how much money you're willing to spend.

Does anyone know the exact measurements for the bolt spacing on the back of a 500M for wall mounting? In particular, the measurements top to bottom and side to side. I'm trying to put up my mounting bracket prior to receiving my 500M next week, but I need these measurements to properly space my mount above the stand. Thanks.

What chip or processor do these plasma's use ?
Would a DVDO Edge help with non BluRay-sources?
Can anyone point me to an iso download for stuck/dead pixels etc?
I'm suppose to take delivery on a 600 Monday.

There are solutions to this problem. I don't know what your constraints are but I suspect most of the solution space exceeds them. You could provide more information about what you're willing to do and how much money you're willing to spend.

I am just look for options. Then I can make a decision on how much money I would spend to get around this. Of course it would be a lot easier if Pioneer fixed their own mistake

I am just look for options. Then I can make a decision on how much money I would spend to get around this. Of course it would be a lot easier if Pioneer fixed their own mistake

The simplest option is in the FAQ. Plug the troublesome device into a port on the KRP. You could also get a VP that does give per resolution settings. You could switch to serial control which gives you arbitrarily fine grained control over the panel and could simulate per resolution settings. You could get an extra-smart AVR (e.g. B&K) that would present resolution dependent settings.

The above solutions run from free to several thousand dollars.

I'd like a patch from Pioneer but it seems unlikely. You never know though.

I have a tivo, xbox 360 and a ps3 all hooked up through a receiver. Currently when playing PS3 and Xbox games I have to switch the kuro to rgb (16-235) mode to get the correct black levels. Then when I switch back to the tivo, I have to switch the kuro back to auto mode.

Since all sources are hooked up to the receiver, it makes things a bit complicated. Anyone in a similar situation and has developed a workaround?

I wish you could assign the input mode (auto, ycc, rgb) to a resolution

I have a similar problem. All my sources are switched through an Onkyo AVR using HDMI to the 600M. One of the sources is an HTPC, and when I use it, I have to manually switch the video mode to "PC" to avoid aggravating overscan (correctly documented in section 6.3.2). Then, when I use my cable box source, I have to manually change "PC" back to "Video".

Table 9.2.5 suggests that only certain resolutions are recognized as "PC" signals. 1920x1080 is not in the list, and that is what my HTPC puts out. Thinking that was the reason the 600M was not automatically using "PC" mode when I use the HTPC, I tried several of the resolutions laid out in section 9.2.5. Unfortunately, I was unable to find a resolution that enabled automatic selection of "PC" mode.

It certainly looks like the 600M was designed to have each source connected using a different input, which really defeats the purpose of an AVR. Or, I am truly missing something here?

kennelm, you could get an inexpensive 4x2 HDMI matrix switch from monoprice, run everything through the switch, then 1 output to your AVR, the other to a 2nd Input on your Pioneer, AVR out to Pioneer to another Input.

Or, just run the HTPC to the switch, 1 output to your AVR (for audio only) and the other output to your Pioneer.

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I'm not using the switch with an HTPC but I'm running my AVR's output (sources In to AVR) to the switch and using its 2 outputs to the Pioneer (2 Inputs). I have a 2nd switch (most current REV) I'm currently using as well with the KRP-500M next to my primary display but it's normally used with my Projector. - all HDMI of course and I don't think it will be a problem for his HTPC using HDMI.

I assumed his video card had HDMI....

My original switch is the older (2.0 Rev) I think, and there may have been some audio issue which wouldn't work in some setups, I can't remember right now.

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What chip or processor do these plasma's use ?
Would a DVDO Edge help with non BluRay-sources?

I have a 500m and a Pioneer VSX-01 receiver. I thought the receiver's processing would be redundant, but actually with a PS2's 480i output through component, the receiver does the deinterlacing much better than the 500m. If I just pass through the component video to the monitor, there is clearly ugly aliasing. So now I set the VSX-01 to process the 480i into 1080p and send it via HDMI to the monitor.

I could also deinterlace to 480p in the receiver and send progressive to the monitor, that doesn't look much worse.

My next door neighbor came over to check out the Ekornes chairs. When she saw my 600M (not even calibrated!), she wanted one for her husband office. The issue is he turns on and off his TV over a dozen times a day (home-office).
Given this pattern, would you recommend the 600M, or which alternatives?
Sadly, his eyes or ears are not in the videophile and audiophile club. But his wife wants him to have the best…. Thanks in advance.

My next door neighbor came over to check out the Ekornes chairs. When she saw my 600M (not even calibrated!), she wanted one for her husband office. The issue is he turns on and off his TV over a dozen times a day (home-office).
Given this pattern, would you recommend the 600M, or which alternatives?
Sadly, his eyes or ears are not in the videophile and audiophile club. But his wife wants him to have the best. Thanks in advance.

should be no problem. i'm sure there are many many Pioneer panels that get turned on/off many times during the day.