Esto No Es Un Cafe, where art begins at the table

All beautiful, all new, this handkerchief of a restaurant tucked in the old town combines charm, art, history and delights.

In the Callejon del Chorro (a former public fountain in the city) and just around the corner from the four-century-old San Cristobal de La Habana cathedral, this small restaurant revisits Cuban specialities with talent and modesty. You cannot miss it: right up against a stone screen-printing workshop (which is well worth a visit), it is the only restaurant in this small street.

It has a friendly terrace, a welcoming atmosphere, charming decor, an art gallery upstairs and dishes named after painters. Try a mojito (delicious) to start. Then order the famous beef-based ropa vieja, which is served with a hearty salad or lamb simmered in red wine.

For dessert, go for a very generous plate of fresh fruit. Decidedly unbeatable.