There are several features and changes that were made to the bear bows over the years that will help narrow the age of your bow or your potential investment.

1. The Serial Number: These bows usually have, what appears to be a hand inscription on one of the limbs that gives a serial number along with the length and pull weight of the bow. This serial number works very well for dating Bear Bows from 1965-1969 when the first digit of the serial number is the year of manufacture.

For example, a serial number of 5L212 would be a 1965 Bow.

Prior to 1965, the serial numbers for all Bear bows were started over every month, making these bows almost impossible to date by serial number alone. The "K" series of serial numbers (for example KZ9672) were started in 1970.

2. Patent Mark: Most of the BEAR Bows we have sold have the logo and the US Patents printed on it along with the date of CANADA 1953. This date that is printed on all bows made between 1953 and 1972 is simply the date of the patent for a working recurve limb and has nothing to do with the actual model year.

3. Decals & Silkscreening: In 1948 the small Running Bear decal was first and then was replaced by the large Standing Bear decal in mid-1953. The large Standing Bear decal also has the words "Glass Powered Bow" under the Standing Bear.

The large Standing Bear decal was used until 1955 when it was replaced with silk-screening the identification on the bows. By 1956 the silk-screening appeared on all bows.

4. All Wood vs Laminate: If your bow is ALL wood (no laminations of any kind) then your bow had to be made before the mass productions beginning in 1949.

If the ALL wood bow has a stamp that reads "Bear Products" in some form it would have been made before the early to mid 40's.

If it is stamped "Bear Archery" it would have been made AFTER the early-mid 40's and BEFORE 1949.

Also wooden bows with a small "Running Bear" decal can be dated to 1948

5. The Leather Grip: ALL Bear bows had leather grips until 1959. In 1959, the Kodiak Special removed the leather grip and in 1961 the Kodiak did the same, as well as the Grizzly in 1964.

6. The Coin Medallion: Beginning in 1959 all Bear bows had a coin medallion of one type of metal or another. Below are the approx date ranges for the type of coin used.

Best bet would be to go to the VOX customer support page and go from there. Electrical problems are difficult at best with the car in front of the poor guy trying to diagnose. Trying to fix a problem with an aftermarket remote start via a web page is insanity. Here is the URL for VOX:https://voxxintl.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/225328067-Information-Owner-s-Manual-and-Support-for-the-Prestige-APS686T-Remote-Start-System

Nope, there is no work around to get a full screen view with your unit. Unless of course you want to convert your media to the correct aspect ratio with the aid of a PC or Mac with the proper software. The Wondershare media converter software has a free limited edition. It works OK but is slow and lacks many of the "bells and whistles of the paid software.

Not enough information to give you any kind of helpful answer. Problems such as yours are difficult to diagnose with the automobile sitting in front of me much less with the tiny amount of information you've provided. That said, my best advice would be for you to find a local mechanic and pay him to look at your car.

The fuel tank float assembly is the likely culprit for your bad fuel level readings at the gauge. In fifty plus years of working on cars/motorcycles/boats I've never replaced a fuel gauge because it wasn't accurate.

Sounds silly, but try another battery. Go for a big brand name. You do sometimes get new batteries that are dud ones. Is it an aftermarket alarm? If yes, you'll need a mobile auto electrician! No, you might need to take the whole lot to Renault to check the key is still coded to the car. The Auto electrician might be able to check if that's the situation.

Anything with an engine needs 3 things! Air, Fuel, Spark. Try the following.
Fully charge the battery.
Check the obvious! (Don't worry, I've missed something obvious a few times). For example, Fuel in the tank? No dead switches are active and your starting it properly!
Now to get dirty!
Disconnect the plug leads at the plug end and crank the engine for a couple of seconds. Remove each plug in turn and sniff the hole, (Smelling for fuel!). While the plugs are out test each one. Plug each one into it's lead, hold it against the engine block and crank the engine for a couple of seconds. Your looking for a strong blue spark. Refit plugs and leads. Remove, clean and refit the Air Filter.
Smell no fuel = no fuel supply.
See no spark = electrical fault.
Dirty Air filter = no air.
After all that and it still doesn't start! Take it to a Mechanic!!