Quinney Professorship for Wildlife Conflict Management
Utah State University Extension Service and College of Natural
Resources
Department of Fisheries and Wildlife
Jack H. Berryman Institute
Utah State University, Logan, Utah

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Snakes are probably the most feared and
misunderstood animals known. There are over 200
species of snakes in the U. S., most of which (about 170)
are non-venomous.

Utah is home to 31 species of snakes. Of these,
24 are non-venomous. Since these snakes are more
abundant, chances are that when most Utahns encounter a
snake it will be non-venomous. (See Figure 1.)

SCALES ON
UNDERSIDE OF TAIL
IN SINGLE ROW

Figure 1. Poisonous snakes have vertically elliptical pupils (catâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eyes), facial pits between the nostril and
eye. Non-poisonous snakes have round eye pupils and no facial pits between the nostril and eye.

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The most common non-venomous snakes in Utah
are the three species of garter snakes (Thamnophis spp.)
which are commonly referred to by many as water snakes
(Utah has no true water snakes), the rubber boa (Charina
bottae), and gopher or bullsnake (Pituophis
melanoleucus).
There are three ways to determine the difference
between venomous and non-venomous snakes. As a
general rule, venomous snakes have elliptical pupils and a
single row of scales on the underside of their tail. Pit
vipers (which are all venomous) have a pit midway
between their nostrils and their eyes. Non-venomous
snakes have round pupils and two rows of scales on the
under side of their tail (Figure 1).

LEGAL STATUS
Snakes are classified as non-game animals and
are protected by Utah state laws. A person cannot collect
or possess a live wild snake without receiving a
Certificate of Registration from the Utah Division of
Wildlife Resources.

CONTROL
Identification of Damage
Non-venomous snakes cause no direct damage to
humans, structures, or pets. These snakes assist in
controlling local insect and rodent populations. Some
non-venomous snakes eat other snakes, even venomous
ones. Occasionally snakes will enter buildings and other
structures for shelter or food, which can cause the
occupants to become uneasy.
Non-venomous snake bites are harmless. The
only concern would be potential infection. If bitten, clean
and sterilize the wound with disinfectant. Treat and cover
the wound similar to any cut or abrasion you may have
received previously.
If you are bitten by a venomous snake the wound
will almost instantly show signs of swelling and
discoloration of the surrounding tissue. A tingling
sensation and nausea usually will accompany these
symptoms. Bites from pit vipers (rattlesnakes) will show
two prominent fang marks as well as other teeth marks.

BIOLOGY AND BEHAVIOR
Snakes are reptiles and are considered “cold
blooded” animals which means that they maintain body
temperatures approximately equal to that of their
environment. When environmental temperatures drop
below 50 degrees F snakes seek shelter in areas where the
temperatures are maintained above freezing. Suitable
shelter areas may be found under rocks or rock piles, in
holes, below ground, in or under tree stumps, wood piles,
debris, or many man-made structures. These locations
may be used for temporary shelter or for winter
hibernation. Some snakes will use the same sites as dens
year after year to hibernate. Several hundred snakes may
also occupy the same denning sites.
Snakes shed their skin as they grow. Several
sheddings can occur throughout the year. When shedding
their skin, snakes will become temporarily blinded until
the old skin splits at their head and they are able to crawl
out of it.
Snakes have forked tongues which contain
receptors similar to taste buds. They use their tongues to
sample odors in the air. Snakes can also use their tongue
to “sense” their way in the dark as well as locate prey.
They have hinged jaws which allow them to consume
food that is larger than their body. Snakes will eat any
live animal or eggs small enough to swallow. Captured
prey is either eaten alive or first constricted to death
before swallowing. Common prey items for nonvenomous snakes includes insects, rodents, birds, eggs,
and other snakes. Snakes store food as fat and can live
off this fat reserve for extended periods of time.
Some snakes lay eggs (oviviparous), while others
give birth to live young (viviparous). Utah garter snakes,
rubber boas and all rattlesnakes bear live young. Gopher
snakes lay eggs, which are left to hatch on their own.
Once born, young snakes are left to fend for themselves.

Habitat
Probably the best way of reduce problems
associated with non-venomous snakes is to make the area
unattractive to them. Snakes require food and shelter, if
these are not present, snakes will not be attracted to the
area. Keep lawns cut, weeds and other vegetation thinned,
and remove wood piles, rock piles, and other debris piles.
Removing these and other potential snake or rodent
hiding places will also help to reduce food supplies.
Exclusion
Snakes may enter buildings in search of food and
shelter. The best way to exclude snakes from buildings is
to close any and all possible entrances. To do this, check
the foundation for cracks and openings larger than 1/4
inch, and fill these openings with caulk or concrete
mortar. Metal screen or hardware cloth can also be used
to close these openings. Pay special attention to areas
where pipes or wires enter the building. Also, check
around doors and windows for openings and repair any

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openings. Consider using screens around doors and
windows to reduce the chance that snakes may enter
through these areas. These modifications can also help to
exclude rodents and insects.
Using these exclusion methods should also be
considered when building a new home. An important
thing to remember when building is site location. If you
build a home near permanent water sources (river,
stream, lake, pond, wetlands) you will greatly increase
the chances of future non-venomous snake encounters.
Also, keep in mind the habitat and food requirements of
snakes when landscaping.
In extreme cases, a homeowner may feel more at
ease if a snake-proof fence is constructed around their
property. This exclusion method is costly, yet it can be
very effective at keeping all snakes out of your yard
(Figures 2 and 3).

Toxicants and Repellents
There are no registered toxicants or repellents
used for snake control.
Trapping and Removal
If snakes continue to frequent an area, even
though you have modified the habitat, it may be
necessary to trap and remove them. Remember that
snakes are protected in Utah and they should not be killed
without proper cause.
The best way to remove snakes from buildings is
to use long capture tongs or other long suitable item
(pole, stick, etc.) then place them into a container for
removal. It is not recommended you capture snakes by
hand.
A pile of damp burlap bags can also be used to
attract snakes and assist in removing them from enclosed
areas. Place the pile of bag in a dark cool place, cover
with a dry bag to help keep the others damp. This will
serve to concentrate the snakes as they will be attracted to
this area to escape the heat of the day. Remove the bags
and snakes(s) with a large flat shovel in the middle of the
day when the snakes are more likely to be inside.
Glue boards may also be used to capture and
remove snakes (Figure 4). Attach three or four rat-size
glue boards to a piece of plywood (16x24 inches) or
staple them together. Place the glue boards along an
inside wall or along the foundation. Snakes generally
move along walls. When a snake moves over the glue
board it will become attached to the board. Once the
snake is attached, the glue board can be removed. To

Figure 2. Though fairly expensive, a properlyconstructed snake-proof fence can keep snakes
from entering a given area.

Figure 4. A glue trap to catch snakes indoors
or under porches can be made by attaching
rodent glue traps to a wooden board.

avoid close contact with an agitated snake, or if you are a
little squeamish about getting to close to snakes, consider
fastening a wood extension handle to the glue board
plywood base before placing the trap.
To release a snake caught in a glue board, take it
to a suitable area, place the glue broad flat on the ground,
and pour vegetable oil on the snake. The vegetable oil
will reduce the tackiness of the glue and allow the snake

Figure 3. This is the side view of a snake-proof
fence to exclude snakes.

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to free itself.
Traps can also be used to capture snakes. The
best trapping method used is the funnel trap and drift
fence method (Figure 5). A funnel trap can be constructed
from a 3 x 4 foot 1/4 inch piece of mesh hardware cloth.
Roll the hardware cloth into a cylinder about a foot in
diameter and 4 feet long. Construct an entrance funnel of
the same type hardware cloth and fasten it to one end and
cover the other end with another piece of hardware cloth,
attach it so it can easily be opened to let the snake out
once it is relocated. Attach the drift fence constructed of
1/4 inches hardware cloth, about 2 feet high and 25 feet
long. Post for the fence should be placed on the back side.
The drift fence is used to help guide the snakes into the
trap. To catch snakes coming from both directions it may
be best to place another funnel trap and drift fence facing
the other direction. Captured snakes should be released in
alternative areas containing plenty of cover and far
enough away from other buildings so the potential for
other encounters will be minimized.

Figure 5. A funnel trap with a drift fence is one way to
catch snakes.

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Utah State University employees and students cannot, because of race, color, religion, sex, national origin,
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campus, USU-sponsored events and activities.
This publication is issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914,
in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Noelle E. Cockett, Vice President for Extension and
Agriculture, Utah State University. (NR/WD/007, 1998)