Turn your stale Super Bowl spread into a Veggie Bowl victory

Super Bowl Sunday. It’s typically a day packed with buffalo wings, burgers, hoagies, cheese steaks and a myriad other meat-filled options. But what do you do when you’re entertaining a group that includes vegetarians? Or if you’re a vegetarian, what do you do when you’re entertaining a group of carnivores?

For many vegetarians, their options will be limited to chip dips and veggie trays. But it doesn’t need to be that way.

“I think what happens is that we get people together, and we tend to rely on the same things year after year,” says Kim O’Donnel, author of cookbooks “The Meat Lover’s Meatless Celebrations” and “The Meat Lover’s Meatless Cookbook.” “It’s automatically, chicken wings or a big pepperoni pizza or big hoagies.”

So what, then, are the alternatives? Because, she says, “It needs to feel satisfying. Putting out a veggie platter isn’t going to cut it.”

The answer, O’Donnel says, lies with umami.

A Japanese word meaning “a savory taste,” umami is one of the five tastes humans experience (sweet, sour, bitter and salty being the others).

“It is the mouth-coding, lingering finish that automatically happens when you eat meat,” O’Donnel says. “It makes you want to smack your lips.”

So while most hosts will head for a simple veggie tray or some kind of pre-packaged, processed faux meat product when faced with the task of appeasing meat-eaters, O’Donnel, a trained chef, is not one of them.

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“Why should we pretend that we’re eating meat?” she asks. “Let’s explore the wonderful world of plants. My whole goal has been, how can I show my meat-loving brethren that vegetarian food is not rabbit food without doing the fake meat route.”

There are ways to coax that umami out of non-meat foods, it just requires a little more work. Some vegetarian items that are particularly high in that umami quotient, O’Donnel says, are mushrooms, smoked paprika, soy sauce, black-eyed peas, roasted vegetables and smoked cheeses.

"The Meat Lover s Meatless Celebrations, by Kim O'Donnel. (Alex)

“Adding that layer of umami to vegetarian and vegan food makes things really savory and delicious, and that’s what helps you forget you’re not eating meat,” she says. “And then, of course, it’s texture. Combining the two, you can make some beautiful, really delicious food.

Lest you think O’Donnel is a vegetarian trying to push the cause for “weird hippie fare” down your throats, think again. Once a daily meat-eater, she says she’s now “70 percent vegetarian.” A former Washington Post columnist, she was one of the first bloggers to pioneer “Meatless Mondays,” offering her readers a meatless recipe every Monday.

“That’s what fueled the fire for my first book,” O’Donnel says. “I got my husband on board. We were both pretty big meat-eaters, and the incremental approach has really worked for us -- a new normal. Now we’re both eating meat a few times a week every day.

“I think you’re going to see more and more meat eaters scaling back, whether it costs too much, whether they’re learning about the environmental impact, all those kinds of things.”

O’Donnel’s latest book, “The Meat Lover’s Meatless Celebrations,” which features a complete Super Bowl menu, and she was kind enough to share an excerpt with us.

“Otherwise known as Men In Tights Day, in KOD land. I don’t know a touchdown from an offsides, but I do know something about television marathon-worthy chow. This year, we’re gonna let go of the chicken wings; I promise it won’t hurt. The plan I’ve cooked up isn’t just leaner on the jeans; it’s downright lip-smacking. The meatball sub — made from lentils — has all the flavor notes of an old-school Italian-American meatball. Tuck it into a bun with some marinara sauce, and you’ve got a champion in your own two hands. Lest you think the quinoa brownies are for the bake sale set, one bite and you’ll be wondering where they’ve been all your life. P.S.: This could do a delicious double-duty during NCAA’s tournament “March Madness.”

LIGHTENED-UP OLD-SCHOOL ONION DIP

I can still see the envelope of onion soup mix that my mother would sprinkle over sour cream, pour into a pretty little bowl, and serve with waffle-style potato chips for her bridge club gals. That memory is etched right around 1975. You, too?

As much as I love an occasional dip-and-chip indulgence, the formula of yesteryear inevitably has me scrambling for a pitcher of water (those seasoning packets can be extraordinarily salty and contain a slew of preservatives better left alone). Enter: a spice blend with stuff from the cupboard (and not the lab) and a mess of caramelized onions doing some magic on Greek yogurt (the lightened-up piece of this recipe).

Kitchen notes: Greek yogurt, which is becoming increasingly available in conventional supermarkets, is super creamy and my preference here. If it’s just not available in your neck of the woods, don’t fret; place a metal sieve over a bowl and pour plain yogurt into the sieve, letting it drain for 30 minutes or so. Although not a deal breaker, the nonfat version is less creamy than its 2 percent or fuller-fat “traditional” counterparts.

Here's what you do:

Over medium-high heat, heat the oil in a 10- or 12-inch cast-iron (or equally heavy) skillet and add the onion slices. Using tongs, turn the onion to coat with the oil. Lower the heat to low and cook, stirring regularly, until the onion is jamlike and caramelized, about 45 minutes. Be careful not to burn.

Season with the salt and pepper to taste and transfer the onion jam to a small bowl. Cover and place in the freezer for 20 minutes.

Transfer the chilled onion jam to the bowl of a food processor and puree. Add the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth.

The flavors mellow and deepen with time. The dip keeps for 3 days in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Makes a scant 3 cups dip.

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LENTIL MEATBALL SUB WITH MARINARA

It started as a daydream. There’s a guy, let’s call him Luigi, hovering over a cast-iron skillet, delicately turning golf ball-size polpettine, the Italian approximation of meat balls, with Dean Martin’s “That’s Amore” playing on the radio. He’s just poured himself a glass of Valpolicella. My mind’s eye zooms in on the scene, and I notice that these little brown morsels happily dancing in olive oil are not the stuff of pork or veal — but of lentils. I watch how they get golden and even a little crispy. Luigi ladles some tomato “gravy” into a bowl, then he places a few balls on top. The only thing that’s missing is a red checkered tablecloth.

Kitchen notes: Both the lentils and rice must be completely cooled before mixing together and shaping into balls; otherwise you’ll have a goopy, unworkable mess on your hands. You’ll need about an hour of advance prep time before the meatball assembly can commence. The balls can be assembled in advance and cooked when ready to serve, as can the sauce. The recipe yields 26 to 30 meatballs, which make 6 to 8 ample servings. It is important to note that the balls are more delicate compared to their meaty counterparts, and care should be given when frying.

Don’t sweat it if you’re not in the mood to make your own marinara. Should you choose something off the supermarket shelf, choose a brand with as little sugar, salt, and fillers as possible.

Try these in a bowl for a sit-down supper or as a “meatball sub,” perfect chow for watching men in tights on television. For a cheesy topper, I recommend having some sharp provolone or cheddar on hand.

Here's what you do:

Cook the rice: Bring 3/4 cup of the water to a boil, then add the rice. Return to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender, 40 to 45 minutes. Off the heat, keep the rice covered for 5 minutes. Measure out 1/2 cup of the cooked rice and transfer to a baking sheet or plate to cool completely. Refrigerate the remaining 1 cup of rice for another use.

While the rice is cooking, prepare the lentils: Place the lentils in a large saucepan, along with the 2 whole garlic cloves and the remaining 6 cups of water. Over high heat, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to medium. Cook the lentils until tender, 30 to 35 minutes. Drain thoroughly so that the lentils are dry. Allow to cool completely.

While the lentils cook, prepare the marinara sauce: In a medium-size saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat, then add 1/4 cup of the onion and the 3 minced garlic cloves, cooking until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon of the dried oregano and stir occasionally to minimize sticking.

Add the tomato puree and stir to combine the mixture. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat so the sauce can simmer. Cover and cook for about 20 minutes. Keep warm until ready to serve. (For prepared marinara sauce, heat until warmed through over medium heat, cover, and keep warm on low heat.)

Place the cooled lentils and garlic in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the lentils are mashed. (No food processor? Use a handheld potato masher.) Transfer the mixture to a large mixing bowl, then add the cooled rice, the remaining 1/2 cup of onion, the remaining 2 teaspoons of oregano, and the grated cheese, salt, black pepper, bread crumbs, and egg.

With a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, stir the mixture until well mixed.

Using a 1/8-cup measure, shape into balls. They will be slightly sticky to the touch. Refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.

Over medium-high heat, heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil in a 10- or 12-inch skillet until the oil shimmers. Gently lower the balls into the hot oil, cooking in batches and making sure not to crowd the pan, as they are somewhat delicate and benefit from space. Lower the heat to medium and pan fry on first side for about 3 minutes. Turn (or gently nudge) to second side and cook for 2 minutes.

Transfer the first batch to a baking sheet. Add the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil to the skillet for subsequent batches and cook in the same manner. Transfer the balls to the oven to finish cooking, about 5 minutes; the balls will still be somewhat soft to the touch but will have dried out a bit and will have a slightly crispy coating.

To keep the balls warm while you prepare the broccoli rabe, lower the oven temperature to 225 degrees F.

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QUINOA-WALNUT BROWNIES

Cakey this brownie is not; it’s fudgy-wudgy all the way. It also happens to be gluten-free: the fl our stand-in is quinoa ground in an electric coffee grinder. The slight graininess doesn’t distract; rather, it teams up with the chopped walnuts to create a toothsome texture. They are, if I may say so, the cat’s pajamas.

Kitchen notes: Quinoa comes in shades of beige, red, and black, and a mélange of all three, sold as “rainbow quinoa.” They work equally well, but the beige yields the finest, powdery texture of all. Use what is available. For these brownies use quinoa that’s been rinsed before packaging. Ancient Harvest, Bob’s Red Mill, Earthly Delights, and Eden Foods all sell rinsed quinoa, as stated on their labels.

Here's what you do:

Grease a baking pan and line with parchment paper with a few inches of overhang so you can easily remove brownies after baking. Grind the quinoa in a coffee or spice grinder until it looks powdery, like flour.

Transfer to a small bowl and add the salt and the baking powder. Pour a few inches of water into a medium-size saucepan and place a metal bowl that fits snugly on top, yet without touching the water, to make a double boiler. Place all of the chocolate and the butter in the bowl and melt over medium-low heat. As the mixture melts, the chocolate will take on a glossy sheen. With a heatproof rubber spatula, gently scrape the sides of the bowl and stir. When the mixture is completely melted, it will be shiny and smooth.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.

Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in the sugar and vanilla, followed by the eggs, one at a time. Switch to a wooden spoon or rubber stirring spatula, and stir in the quinoa mixture until well incorporated.

Stir in the walnuts until evenly distributed. Scoop the batter into the prepared pan and place on a baking sheet.

Bake on the middle rack for 35 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out with a small amount of residue. You are looking for a fudgy crumb and overbaking will yield a dry result.

Transfer the pan to a rack and allow to cool completely, at least 1 hour. Using the parchment overhang, remove the brownies from the pan and transfer to a cutting board. Remove the parchment. If the brownies are still even a little bit warm, expect some breakage. Slice and serve.

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