the thing you guys gotta understand is that most of these guys are Operating out of China or Korea Morality and Honest Business practices aren't exactly at a all time high over there ATM
its a crap shoot but unless you wanna pay 500 to 600+ for a large monitor this is the road you take

@ random I would bet my money on the power brick those Adapters are made to run off of 190 or 240v while they will function at 110-120v they tend to run very hot and have a high failure rate

the thing you guys gotta understand is that most of these guys are Operating out of China or Korea Morality and Honest Business practices aren't exactly at a all time high over there ATM
its a crap shoot but unless you wanna pay 500 to 600+ for a large monitor this is the road you take

@ random I would bet my money on the power brick those Adapters are made to run off of 190 or 240v while they will function at 110-120v they tend to run very hot and have a high failure rate

Just checked. It's WTS-2405W, not 240SW, but yeah, that's the one.
Apparently it's made by Welltronics and their website is Welltro.com, but it's in Korean and damned if I can read it, lol.

I finally received a response from "Alice" at red cap.
They want me to try another DVI cable(which I have but forgot to mention) and if that doesn't work they want a short video clip of the monitor doing its thing.
They'll get their video and then determine whether or not I should get another power brick. That doesn't mean I will, but it's a step in the right direction.

Same output current, half the voltage of mine, and different connector. Yours looks like a traditional sleeve and pin connector. Mine is a round casing(think the old S-Video connectors) with four large pins in a trapezoidal pattern.

Same output current, half the voltage of mine, and different connector. Yours looks like a traditional sleeve and pin connector. Mine is a round casing(think the old S-Video connectors) with four large pins in a trapezoidal pattern.

Click to expand...

Possible yes. Perhaps this photo has better angle on the monitor end of the cable.

Yeah and that's the reason I could not get the heavier and seemingly-higher-qaulity dual-link cable I brought home for work (came with a 30" NEC)--it's pins are too short to screw in at all. When my DVI port doesn't have a "good enough" connection the screen will only flash red then green then go black.

Alright, Red Cap got their video. We'll see how they handle it from here.
TPU was featured in the video btw. It just happened to be the website I was on when I first turned the monitor on in the video, lol

Uh I really don't think you can say the bleed has anything to do w/ IPS vs PLS. Especially considering most of these particular PLS units have bleed, some awful. It seems to be related to frame and bezel anyway; nothing to do w/ the panels themselves. If you truly have none you were extremely lucky. Check out this poor SOB:

Uh I really don't think you can say the bleed has anything to do w/ IPS vs PLS. Especially considering most of these particular PLS units have bleed, some awful. It seems to be related to frame and bezel anyway; nothing to do w/ the panels themselves. If you truly have none you were extremely lucky. Check out this poor SOB:

Uh I really don't think you can say the bleed has anything to do w/ IPS vs PLS. Especially considering most of these particular PLS units have bleed, some awful. It seems to be related to frame and bezel anyway; nothing to do w/ the panels themselves. If you truly have none you were extremely lucky. Check out this poor SOB:

Yep, I saw a post somewhere(not sure if it was here or OCN) where someone had terrible bleed and just loosened the case's screws a little bit near the origin of the bleed and it significantly helped.
So guys, If you have terrible bleed and are not afraid to void the warrantyrolleyes, you could always back out the case's screws slightly and see if it helps.
My best guess is that on at least some of these monitors that have bad bleed (like this one Wrigley posted) the cases and/or the metal that secures the actual panel are just fastened too tightly and putting pressure on the panel.

Red Cap is infuriating me. Now that they have my video clearly displaying the problem, they're asking me to do things that I've already done to try resolving the issue, such as trying another DVI cable, trying the Shimian on another PC, running in single-monitor mode only, and trying a different GPU. We all know a 7970 is more than enough to drive one of these, and the fact that I have a second monitor running off of my GTS250 should not affect the Shimian in any way.
I wasn't nice in this reply and linked them to my previous reply showing that I've done all of that. Next step from here if they keep giving the runaround is to escalate this to EBay or PayPal.
In the meantime, SUATMM is still without a monitor, and I'm not going to game on my secondary 1280x1024 monitor.

Yes that is some BS but just jump through their hoops at least for now still and tell them soon that you have done all that again, as they asked. I don't think you are getting the run around at least yet; they are trying to avoid the return if at all possible and you can't really blame them.

As you say, you could always escalate to eBay worse comes to worse and at least one other dude on OCN has already gotten a full refund through eBay after lots of trouble with a unit from dream-seller. Well, I didn't read all the details but he did say his "faith in eBay was restored" even.

Double-post for bumpage. The guy with that awful bleed I posted above was able to fix it! (Some is hard to follow but here is what he had to say...)

I was able to fix my backlight bleed completely and it was really bad. I put a wad of electrical tap under the panel in one corner (bottom left) and the reduced the bleeding quite a bit.

I tuned the panel on while it was open this help me identify where the panel was not straight. Pushing on the monitor before while it was in the case didn't do anything but while it was open and I lifted one corner and noticed most the bleeding from the two spots on the middle bottom edge where gone when I lifted that corner. So adding a shim in that corner got rid of most the light.

I also went all the way around the whole panel at taped the edges of seam where matte meets the metal bezel. I need ever edge and every side I noticed in places that seem to have no bleeding this still helped. So I just keep taping. I taped it down while the monitor was on so I would be sure I wasn't taping over and pixels but I put tape on the screen as close as I count get to pixels without covering them. Then I ran my finger nail over the tape to make it stick in the seam. By the way the electrical tape I bought was really sticky much better than anything I ever seen before. It was 3M professional grade. I think if it was regular tape it would have came out as good because I know other tape I used before wouldn't stick that well in a small seem like that.