How to Transition Your Cat to a Raw Meat Diet

Last Updated on Saturday, September 26, 2015 06:37 PM

Published on Friday, May 15, 2009 11:46 AM

Written by Margaret Gates

Transitioning a cat to a raw diet is something that the majority of us will have to do until the time comes when people grab a kitten from its mother's teat and start raw feeding from the beginning! But in the meantime, it's a major issue in the raw feeding movement. This step-by-step approach, and patience, will work for nearly every cat.

Kittens need no transition; they take to raw food like ducks to water. Special kitten food is not necessary. They eat the same food as adult cats, just more of it and more often. Kittens need about twice as much food per ounce of body weight as an adult. All that growing to do! Their stomachs are small, so they need to eat more often than adults, about every 4 to 6 hours. If you're getting a kitten(s), start them off right with a raw diet, and you won't have to worry about transitioning them.

Kittens should also be introduced to raw meaty bones, so they learn to eat them when they are young. Most kittens will readily tackle a chicken wing if offered. If you already have an older cat that will eat raw meaty bones, be sure to let the kittens learn from their older housemate. The kittens will copy the behaviors of the adults around them.

Adolescent and Adult Cats

We'll look at this in three stages:

From dry food to canned

From canned to raw

Adding raw meaty bones

The key to any transition is patience. The transition can be fast or very slow. In my household, transitioning to raw took about 5 seconds for some of them to three whole months for another. I have read about cats that took a year to transition. However long it takes yours, stick with it, it's worth it.

The transitioning tips below use the slow, gradual method. It usually works. Usually. For some cats, nothing seems to work. Give these methods a try and don't give up too soon. I thought Kai would never switch. Gearing myself up for feeding him separately forever, I turned around one day, after three months, and found him with his face buried in a plate of raw rabbit! I don't usually advocate using hunger to help transition your cat, other than the normal mealtime hunger of 12 hours or so, but you can try it if your cat is particularly stubborn. If your cat is adult, healthy and not obese, you can wait her out longer if she refuses to eat either canned or the raw. I wouldn't go longer than 36 hours though. This has worked for some people. Be aware that any cat, especially an overweight cat, is at risk for hepatic lipidosis if they don't eat every day.

Whatever your cat eats at present, it's always worth a try to just offer her some raw. She may surprise you. See if she will eat some cut up raw chicken or turkey, or some raw chicken liver. If she does…well, this may be easy.

From Dry Food to Grain-Free Canned

Cats get addicted to dry food, so this may be the hardest step, especially if your cat doesn't also eat canned food.

For cats that will only eat dry food:

First, stop free feeding dry food. Your cat does not need to have food available at all times. Eating two or three meals a day is fine, as is going 12 hours between meals. You want your cat to associate food with a person — you — not a place.

Start bringing out their food at regular mealtimes. Cats will learn the new routine very quickly. Leave it out for 30 minutes, and then put it away. At first, you may have to have more than two mealtimes a day. Cut back to two or three per day after a week, once your cat gets used to the whole idea of mealtimes. Put out one bowl for each cat, in separate rooms if necessary, so each cat feels relaxed about her meal.

Your cats will get hungry, but that's good. Nothing enhances a meal more than having an appetite. Just make sure each cat does eat, every day.

Once they seem used to mealtimes and are coming to you for their meals, start offering canned food. Choose a quality, grain-free canned food. Avoid foods with fish, as these are overly strong flavors which cats can get addicted to — to the point of refusing other flavors. Fish is not an ideal food for cats and should be fed sparingly as an occasional treat only. Try putting their dry food on a flat plate with a little of the canned food on the side. If they won't eat the quality canned brand you chose, try a different brand of canned. Even a lesser quality type if needed, as the goal at this point is to get them eating canned at all. They may ignore it completely, but it will get them to start associating the smell with dinner. Give this a week or so.

If they still aren't interested, next try putting out a plate of canned food with some of their dry food on top, whole or crushed a little. Being a little hungry makes them more likely to try something new. They may just pick the dry food off — that's okay. They will be getting just a taste of the canned food with it. Keep at this, even if you end up throwing away the canned food. Try different canned foods; your cat may like one more than another. If it looks like your cat is nibbling at the canned a bit, try putting out just the canned next time and see what happens. Some cats can be tempted by the gravy in some canned foods, and lick all that off. That's a step forward for a confirmed dry food addict.

Try some meat baby food. Some cats will eat this even if they refuse canned food. Try letting them lick it off your finger. If they will eat it, put a little on top of their canned food.

You can try putting a little canned food on your finger, and putting a little in your cat's mouth. Only do this if it won't stress out or frighten your cat, as you definitely don't want them to have bad associations with the new food or be afraid of you.

You can also try topping canned food with a dehydrated meat treat. Cats love Halo LivaLittles® freeze dried chicken and Wildside Salmon® treats. Both of these are 100% meat, dehydrated into cubes. These products appeal to dry food eaters as they are similar in texture, and the taste and odor are irresistible to most cats. Keep in mind that it's a treat, not a meal. Another good "bribe" topping is shaved bonito flakes. Mine love Kitty Kaviar®, which I used on raw food when transitioning them. Again, use fish products sparingly and not routinely.

You may ask "Why can't I just soak the dry food in water?" From Dr. Lisa Pierson, DVM, at CatInfo.org: "Dry food has a high bacterial content. Mold is also often found in dry food. There have been many deaths of dogs and cats secondary to eating moldmycotoxins, vomitoxins and aflatoxins which often contaminate the grains found in dry food. If you want to try the trick of wetting down the dry food to alter the texture, please leave it out for only 20-30 minutes then discard it. Bacteria and mold thrive in moisture."

Keep offering canned food. Plain or with a bribe topping. Don't give up, no matter how long it takes. Even if it takes months and months. Really, it's that important for your cat. Eventually, they will figure out that this really is food.

Keep any dry food you have closed up as much as possible. Put it in an over-sized Ziploc®, or a large Tupperware® type container and then in a room the cats can't get into. When they get hungry, they will try to get to it. Once your cats are eating canned food, get rid of the dry food completely. Out of the house. Cats have an excellent sense of smell; if it's in the house, they'll know.

Don't get discouraged if your cat turns her nose up at something she liked just the day before. This isn't unusual. That's how cats got that reputation for being finicky. Just try it again next time. Also, it isn't unusual for a cat to act ravenous one day and not be overly interested in eating the next. Don't worry about it if it happens occasionally.

Here's a tip: Take notes. Especially if you have more than one or two cats. Note which cats like which foods, and which flavors. You may have to try a lot of different kinds, and it helps to have a record. It's okay at this point if your cat only likes one kind; getting her off dry food is what's paramount. Always try to get your cats eating a quality grain-free canned food, but it's acceptable if at first they will only eat a lesser quality food. Just be sure to transition to a quality grain-free canned or raw for the long run.

Once your cat is off dry food, and is used to mealtimes, give her at least a couple weeks on this new diet, and then start on the transition to raw.

For cats that eat dry and canned:

This one is easy. Get rid of all the dry food.

Give them a couple weeks to get used to an all grain-free canned diet, with regular mealtimes, and then start the switch to raw.

From Grain-Free Canned to Raw

First try out some cut-up raw chicken or turkey, or chicken liver on your cat. Some cats go for it immediately. Most of my cats took to raw right away, but it helped that they were young. Kittens take to raw with no problems. The younger the cat, the easier the transition will probably be.

For your first try, either buy some commercially prepared raw food, or make some homemade. My cats liked most of the different types of meat I tried: chicken, turkey, pheasant, quail and duck. Their hands — sorry — paws-down favorite is rabbit. This makes sense, as this is probably the closest to what they would be eating naturally. Or they know it's more expensive than chicken. Vary what they get so that they don't get fixated on just one food.

If they don't go for raw right away, there are a number of things to try. Don't give up!

Make sure the raw food is warm. Think mouse body temperature. Don't microwave it. Microwaving cooks the food and will reduce the nutrients you've been so careful to obtain. Put the food in a Ziploc® type baggie and place it in a bowl of warm water for 5-15 minutes, depending on how thawed it is. It is sometimes easier to then cut the bottom corner off the baggie and squeeze the food out.

Put their canned food on a plate rather than in a bowl, and put a little raw next to it. They probably won't eat it, but that's okay. The idea is to get them used to the smell of it, and to start associating that smell with their meal. As you may have noticed, fresh raw meat has a very slight, subtle odor and cats that are used to smelly canned food may not recognize it as edible at first.

Mix a little of the raw with their canned food. With my reluctant Kai, I started with ¼ teaspoon mixed into his meal. This is a tinyamount, and he would still sometimes eat around it. I kept it at this amount for a few weeks, and then upped it to ½ teaspoon for another few weeks. I kept offering it to him plain also, on the side, but he never touched it. I increased it to about 1 teaspoon and kept it there. Hey cat, I can keep this up forever! He surprised me after three months by suddenly changing his mind and eating a plateful of rabbit. Unless this happens with you, just keep increasing the percentage of raw, slowly, until it's all raw. Keep giving your cat the opportunity to eat a plain raw meal. Be patient. This is a big adjustment for your cat; let her guide you as to how fast you should go.

Try "bribe" foods sprinkled on top. Only use these if you need to, you don't want them to get hooked on these foods. Here are some toppings that worked for me:

Shaved bonito flakes. Use scissors in the can to cut it up into smaller flakes, something like oregano sized. It doesn't need to be refrigerated, but I keep it in there anyway so the cats can't get at it. They can smell it through the can.

Grated Parmesan cheese. Hey, it's Italian night!

Brewer's yeast. A good source of B vitamins. Don't use baking yeast. Don't use brewer's yeast on cats with digestive issues as it can cause bloating. Also, it can be allergenic in some cats.

Once your cats are eating raw, be sure to introduce chunked meat into their meals, if you haven't already. For their dental health and for their jaw muscles, cats need to chew, using the sides of their jaws. Cats who have only ever eaten canned haven't had to do much chewing, so you may have to start them gradually.

I add chunks, usually chicken, to all my homemade food and most of the commercial raw food I buy. It's more time consuming, but my cats are worth it. I hope to forestall expensive dental problems down the road. I add small pieces, about ½ inch square on average, but some twice that size. At first some of the cats ate around them, but shortly they were all chewing away, and none of the chunks was ever left over. Start small, and gradually increase the size up to the biggest your cat will eat. The lack of chunks is probably my only complaint with commercial raw foods, but you can always, and should, add your own to any thawed food.

Raw Meaty Bones

This is the term for meat with bones, fed whole or in parts. Cats can eat small whole raw chicken parts or other small birds. Getting them to do it is sometimes the problem. I have one cat, Thodin, who is crazy for chicken wings. She will go nuts when I take any baggie out of the fridge, thinking she's going to get a wing. She picks it up in her mouth, and runs off to a favorite spot in the kitchen and chomps away. She eats almost all of it, usually leaving only a small bone piece. She'll pretty much eat as many as I'll give her. I'm getting so I love to hear the sound of bones crunching from the next room!

If your cat has been eating dry or canned food for a long time, it may take a little time for their jaws to work up good chewing muscles to be able to tackle raw meaty bones. Start with boneless chunks in her ground food. Once she's had some practice chewing on hunks of meat, try her out on a small chicken wing.

I didn't have to teach Thodin to eat meaty bones, but the others had to be enticed, encouraged and taught. Here are some ideas to try:

Try introducing raw meaty bones when your cats are hungry. They are more likely to give it a try.

Roll a chicken wing in a "bribe" food you know they like, to encourage them to try it. I had some success with finely cut bonito flakes. Put the flakes in a baggie, add a chicken wing. Sort of like Shake 'n Bake® without the bake! A few of the cats would just lick off the flakes, but I got one to start chewing away on it on the very first try.

Add smaller meaty bones to their regular meals if they are already used to eating chunks.

Try other small game birds or rabbit. They might hate chicken but love Cornish game hens or quail.

Use your cat's natural instinct to copy. If you have one cat that will eat raw meaty bones, give it one when all your cats are hungry and let the others watch. They know that cat has something good. After they show some interest get out another and see if they'll go for it. I know this sounds a bit unusual, but I've seen it work.

Margaret Gates is the founder the Feline Nutrition Foundation.Read more at http://feline-nutrition.org/nutrition/how-to-transition-your-cat-to-a-raw-diet Follow us on Twitter: @FelineNutrition

Acid Reflux

Acid Reflux, in dogs, cats, and other pets, is often referred to as GERD, which is the abbreviation of its more technical name – gastroesophageal reflux disease. Veterinarians often refer to this condition in animals as esophagitis. Although sometimes confused with gastritis, or esophagitis, and can be related, there is an important difference. This article will help to clarify this, as well as explain Acid Reflux in pets, the symptoms, and treatment options.

People tend to believe that it is not critical what animals eat. It may be surprising to learn that some of the things we suffer from as humans are identical to what our pets are experiencing, and may require similar remedies as well.

Technical Description:

GER, or gastroesophageal reflux, occurs when the contents of liquid and/or food flow backwards from the stomach, and into the esophagus, the muscular tube connecting the mouth to the stomach. Gastric acids, which contain hydrochloric acid, are formed in the stomach, and when Acid Reflux occurs, the gastric acid mixed with food and/or liquid is what can cause irritation to the esophagus.

This involuntary and uncontrollable reversal of stomach content can be a result of many things. When the sphincter muscle in the lower esophagus close to the stomach is weakened or damaged, this leaking of stomach contents can be more predominant. Along with hydrochloric acid, the flow of content may also contain bile salts, and other GI juices that add to irritation.

GERD is the disease attributed to regular irritation due to Acid Reflux. As a periodic, or possibly chronic condition, various degrees of esophageal inflammation may result, from mild inflammation, to severe damage to deeper layers of the esophagus. The inflammation, identified by the “-itis,” in gastritis and esophagitis, is specifically the condition of damaged tissue, swelling and inflammation caused by the Acid Reflux.

What causes Acid Reflux?:

The list of potential causes for Acid Reflux is extensive. The more common ones range from professionally administered treatments, to daily diets.

Any procedure requiring anesthetic application that allows the sphincter muscle of an animal to relax should be monitored carefully by a professional. Proper positioning of the animal during the procedure is also critical. Also, proper fasting prior to anesthetic procedures is very important.

Certain breeds of dogs and cats can have a genetic predisposition to Acid Reflux. For instance, Brachycephalic breeds, which have short noses and flat faces (dogs – Bulldogs, Terriers, Boxers; cats – Himalayan, Persian. Etc.), are more susceptible to GERD.

Actual physical conditions, such as a hiatal hernia in the upper portion of the stomach, or megaesophagus (See Megaesophagus for more information), which alludes to an enlarged esophagus and improper functioning of the esophagus muscles, can result in Acid Reflux.

Diet is always a concern. A meal that has very high fat content, or a similar regular diet can trigger the reflux process. As well, the problem can be the result of simple overeating.

One must keep in mind that persistent vomiting is also associated with life-threatening diseases such as intestinal obstruction and peritonitis. Seek professional consultation in all cases where the cause of persistent vomiting is not known.

Symptoms and Signs:

The easiest signs to recognize do not necessarily mean that your pet has GERDS or Acid Reflux. The following are things that may pertain to your animal’s condition that may be attributed to Acid Reflux, and can be readily observed.

Loss of appetite

Weight loss

Regurgitation of food or chronic vomiting

Gagging after eating

Burping

Lethargy and inactivity after eating

Excessive Salivating or drooling

Eating grass, plastics, and other unusual substances

Your dog, cat, or other pet may not be able to convey their problems to you the way people would. However, with diligent observation a lot can be determined. For instance, your animal may be having pain when swallowing, or it could be ongoing, resulting in crying, whining, or howling. They may be lethargic, and noticeably inactive after eating. You may find them with their heads hanging over the food or water bowl, but not partaking. They may be wandering nervously for no apparent reason, or pacing back and forth. Hence, any behavior that is abnormal may be held in suspicion, and could be an indication of an Acid Reflux issue.

Hopefully, you will know your pet better than anyone, and will spot any “red flags,” or obvious signs of distress. But, it is best not to jump to conclusions, or rely on non-professional diagnosis. Any symptoms should be considered as alerts for seeking professional help.

Diagnosis:

Taking the next step to determine if your pet has Acid Reflux will be to arrange an appointment with your veterinarian. Your vet will start with a simple examination. However, if there is suspicion of an Acid Reflux problem, your vet may suggest a range of tests, including blood and urine analysis, or a chest x-ray. If these tests are still inconclusive, and advanced testing is required, a vet may perform a fluoroscopy (x-ray), or esophagoscopy (viewing scope), to get a better look at the conditions of the esophagus for determining the cause of symptoms.

Treatment:

Irvine Compounding Pharmacy recommends a treatment called Cisapride, which is a medication for dogs and cats. For Acid Reflux, Cisapride can help with the regulation of motility, or regular pace of muscular contractions that control the passing of food in the stomach, allowing for better digestion, and a decrease in excess acid generation. Barring anything unusual, such as a hernia, or a foreign body lodged in the stomach, intestines, or elsewhere, the Cisapride treatment can be very effective, and is often complimented with an adjusted diet. Invariably, a low fat, low protein diet is recommended. Reducing the fat consumption encourages the strengthening of the sphincter, while reducing the protein limits the generation of excess stomach acid. It also may require a change in feeding schedule, frequency and quantity. Smaller portions given more often will help the healing process. Also, specific attention to food composition will be essential. Some vets prescribe antacids in the diet. However, some animals are allergic or sensitive to these.

The presence of Acid Reflux in our pets can very elusive to recognize. Imagining a cat encountering a hairball, or a dog having issues with digesting a bone are much easier than conceiving of more complicated problems. Let’s remember to let the qualified professionals do the official diagnosing, while we stick to adding the love and devotion in exchange for the purring and wagging tails.