Roubo 48" Frame saw

My neighbor was trashing a Mahogany tree and I decided to make use of some of the crotch sections of the tree before they went to mount Trashmore.Some people hate trees no matter how wonderful they are.This Frame saw is made similar to the one made by Renaissance Woodworker. White oak guide bar with yellow pine rails and end bar. Hardware is from artisanirondesigns.com and 4”X48” blade from blackburntools.comGreat way to get a full body workout, and an excuse to drink a cold beer after a hard day of work.I will have to let these slabs air dry for 6 months or so before milling begins. Should be able to get some good figured grain pieces for my panels to a sideboard table project coming up soon.I tried to find a local sawyer to slice these logs without success.

Very nice. It appears that it allows you to make some very straight, controlled cuts with this saw. I’ve had plans rattling around in my head for awhile to build a smaller version of this for stock re-sawing purposes. Thanks for posting this.

Thank to you all. It took me about 45 minutes of steady sawing to cut a slice off this 30” long X 16 wide log.Working solo you can expect to be huffing and puffing after a while, but I liked the exercise. It is a total body work out for the arms, shoulders, back , stomach, and legs. Cutting solo this way was an experiment to see if it could be done.It can, but it is much easier, and faster, with two willing souls. That is the problem , it’s hard to find many willing to give it a go.Of course if the beer is cold, and they get a nice piece of wood to take home , that might sweeten the deal.I found that a starter kerf cut in with a skill saw or hand rip saw, helped get the line up right.Once the blade was into the log about twice its width , 8” ,I would wedge behind it to loosen the gap and also lubricated periodically with mineral spirits . Keeping the course straight took a few cuts to get tuned in on it. When and how to correct the drift of the blade took some practice.I kept the blade sharp with a straight 90 degree angle rip pattern with standard set for the 3 ppi blade.It produced a kerf about 1/8” wide . I found switching end for end which is from push to pulling and sawing in a tilted see -saw action helped a great deal in tracking straight.Even my best effort produce some cupping, once the slabs are dry, I will probably lose another 1/8” to true the face side of the slabs. My intention is to obtain the crotch figured grain that is to big to go through a 20” band saw. You cannot easily find that at your local lumber yard here in South Florida. Besides at 62 I need the exercise and my labor is cheap.

Yes the blade is 4” wide and 48” long with 3ppi filed straight rip. No the log is actually nailed to the 3/4 plywood with 10d common I lagged the plywood to 6’ long 6X6 for longitudinal stability . I had to line up my cuts between the 6 nails used to secure the log. Even with the long base I ended up having to pin the 6X6s to the concrete slab with 2X6 slats with 40d spikes nailed in predrilled holes two inches into the slab. This was needed to control the forces of sawing back a forth. It would have been better to bolt them down but I didn’t want to mess up my work slab with a bunch of anchor bolts.