Cowbell is the kind of restaurant that draws people who would rather not divorce themselves from large amounts of cash or change out of their flip-flops in order to address their appetites.

It is, in short, a joint — and not just a burger joint, although hamburgers top the list of reasons to recommend the place.

That said, Brack May, the chef who opened Cowbell with his wife, Krista Pendergraft-May, flaunts his fine dining credentials here and there; a seared redfish fillet’s lofty aspirations were cinched by a stellar supporting class of potatoes tingly with seafood boil, sweet-bitter collard greens and a drift of roasted jalapeno tartar sauce.

Built inside an old gas station in Riverbend, Cowbell fills a demand for a New Orleans joint that exists in the price range just above a po-boy joint — but doesn’t serve po-boys. The margaritas are good, too.