Hike Of The Week: The Wonderland Trail lives up to its name

The Wonderland Trail is about 92 miles long with an accumulated elevation gain of 22,786 feet. Many hikers do a stretch at a time, and this hiker had unfinished business with Summerland.

Earlier this year, snow stopped me and I had to call it quits at Fryingpan Creek, a mile short of Summerland. We returned in August, determined to get to Summerland via the Wonderland Trail. The route is justifiably one of the most beautiful hikes in Mount Rainier National Park, and a sunny day in August guaranteed success.

Of the many trails I've hiked, no other route climbs through the diversity of terrain that this one offers. The hike begins in old-growth forest and continues through subalpine meadows and desolate moraines to the high point of the Wonderland Trail at Panhandle Gap (6,800 feet). Hikers who get that far may get lucky and spot the herd of mountain goats that frequent the region.

Even with an early start we had to park beside the White River Road near Fryingpan Creek as trailhead parking was already full. From the road bridge over the creek, a short spur provides access to the Wonderland Trail and a pleasant prelude through the forest on an easygoing trail. This shady stretch was a relief -- we knew when we crossed Fryingpan Creek at three miles, we'd be out in the open the rest of the day.

The trail passes several overlooks of Fryingpan Creek as it climbs toward Summerland. While still in the trees, we met hikers with cameras at the ready -- they had stopped to watch a mother bear and her cubs grazing on berries before the animals scurried off into the vegetation. We caught just a glimpse of Mama before she disappeared. We hoped the bears would materialize again, but they were more interested in berries than an audience and refused a curtain call.

We crossed Fryingpan Creek on a bridge where snow had foiled my previous attempt. With views of Mount Rainier, this is a good turnaround for beginning hikers, so pull up a rock and stay awhile. This scenic setting is also a golden opportunity for a break before tackling that last steep mile to Summerland.

After crossing the creek, the trail enters forest again but the trees are interspersed with hanging meadows and expanding views of Mount Rainier. A few flowers are blooming still in the lower meadows, mostly asters and pearly everlasting. At about four miles, the trail reaches a stone shelter and the Summerland backcountry camp, with designated campsites nearby. Here, several hikers had come to rest, many with bulging backpacks.

Though it still felt like summer, most of the flowers have faded and the brilliant meadows are quieting down to a golden glow of grasses, and mountain ash has replaced its flowers with orange berries. Blue bog gentians are beginning to appear in subalpine meadows, one of the last flowers to bloom. Despite the seasonal changes, magenta paintbrush were making a last stand in meadows near the shelter.

The shelter is a fine destination for a day hike, with views of Mount Rainier, Fryingpan Glacier, Little Tahoma and Goat Island Mountain. Little Tahoma is a piece of work. The subsidiary peak, Washington's third-highest mountain, rises to 11,138 feet. The crumbling spire is a remnant of an older, higher Mount Rainier. Climbers swear the whole peak is composed of rotten rock, as holds break off in their hands. When that happens, climbers really swear.

My companion rested near the shelter, so we agreed upon a turnaround time as I continued. Beyond the shelter, meadows sprawl, some still lush and green. The trail weaves through meadows and small streams overhung with masses of pink Lewis' monkeyflower.

Meadows finally give way to the crumbling moraine of the Fryingpan Glacier. Trail reports indicated lingering snow patches near Panhandle Gap, but most hikers shouldn't have a problem and it may be gone if the weather stays warm.

But whatever you do, save this hike for a clear, sunny day and allow plenty of time so you don't have to hurry. A backpack may be the best way to experience Summerland if you can reserve a campsite. From Panhandle Gap, the Wonderland Trail descends to Indian Bar.

Near the gap a three-tiered waterfall comes into view, tumbling over blocky, earth-toned boulders below a snowfield. The route across the snow is marked by wands but is not steep. As the trail crosses the snow, you may hear water running underneath -- that can be a little disconcerting. If this makes you nervous, hike above the snow but step on boulders, not on the fragile soil where small, delicate plants struggle for life.

After the snow patch, terra firma is reached again as the trail winds through the rubble of the moraine. As Panhandle Gap came into view, I had to make a decision since it was close to turnaround time

I had passed two shallow, green lakes below the gap and though there was still time to get to the gap, I chose to spend the last of my budgeted time at the lakes rather than dash ahead. The shallow, jade-colored lakes were beautiful to behold and parts of the shoreline were bordered with the greenest moss I've ever seen. The color was so intense it seemed artificial.

As I made my way back to the shelter, several backpackers were slowly wending their way toward the Panhandle Gap and destinations beyond. Though I had hiked farther than my companion, he enjoyed quality time at Summerland as he kicked back and daydreamed, listening to the buzz of bees in the meadows, the gurgling of streams and watched the shadows grow longer.

The hike out through the forest seemed endless -- the heat clung to us like a thick sweater as we hiked those last cruel miles back to the car. However, we knew that good memories of Summerland would last much longer than the unpleasant memory of climbing into the hot car and the long drive home.