JERUSALEM — Israel had been on my bucket list for some time, so when the Air Transat folks invited me to tour that country with a group of Canadian journalists, I didn’t hesitate. Israel is a new destination for Air Transat, and seasonal direct flights from Montreal to Tel Aviv (with connections from Toronto) will begin June 18.

I fully expected to be wowed by Israel’s iconic religious sites and ancient architecture, but somehow I had missed the memo that Israel has become a major foodie destination.

Food writing is not my forte. I leave that to Rita DeMontis, the Sun’s guru of all things food-related. I do, however, love food markets — not only for the edibles but also for the glimpse of local culture they provide. I try to check out a couple on every trip.

On my recent visit to Israel, two very different markets made big impressions: Mahane Yehuda in Jerusalem and Sarona market in Tel Aviv.

In addition, market restaurants and cafes serve up tasty bites and sips — everything from savouries such as kebabs, falafel, shawarma, even dim sum, to sweets like baklava, artisan ice-cream, freshly squeezed juices, espresso, mint tea, wine and craft beers. There are also places to buy household goods, gifts, clothing and shoes, as well as cooking workshops.

But unlike other traditional markets, which typically wind down after dark, this central Jerusalem institution gears up when the sun goes down.

A growing number of recently opened restaurants and bars — several with live music — stay open late and attract a young crowd for a night out, says Dado Shalom, our guide for a late-day market tour.

"This market is the hottest bar scene in Jerusalem," Shalom tells us over a cappuccino at Roasters — a cafe by day and a bar at night.

"It’s like one big bar every night. Every week, new places open," he adds.

Sure enough, as the food stalls start to close and the grocery shoppers thin out, the after-work crowd begins to arrive.

And when the vendors shutter their stalls for the night, a funky gallery of street art emerges. More than 100 metal shutters along the market’s narrow covered alleyways have been spray-painted with murals — many of famous figures such as former Israeli prime ministers David Ben-Gurion and Golda Meir, or celebrities such as filmmaker Steven Spielberg.

But this is not graffiti. The colourful murals are the work of Banksy-inspired artist Solomon Souza, whose partner in the project, Berel Hahn, obtains permission to paint from shop owners, Shalom says.

The entire "Shuk Gallery" is most visible on Saturdays, when — except for a few restaurants and cafes — the market stalls are closed for Shabbat, the Jewish sabbath, when most businesses close from sundown Friday to nightfall Saturday.

— For more on the market, see en.machne.co.il. If you plan to taste while you tour, the market’s "Bite Card" allows you to try six different dishes.

CHIC EATS

Located in the city’s business district, Sarona is not a typical "market."

There are no winding alleys or stall-keepers shouting out prices to shoppers. Instead, Sarona is a sleek glass-enclosed epicurean food hall with 91 shops, stalls and restaurants.

While visitors will find some of the usual market staples — organic local produce, and high quality meat and seafood — among its well-curated collection are: A fromagerie selling Israeli and imported cheeses, specialty beer and wine boutiques, including one specializing in French champagne, an outpost of Fauchon, the famous Paris gourmet emporium, several delicatessens, spices from around the globe, and specialty kitchenware boutiques.

Sarona Market is the place to go for everything from delicate macarons, delectable French pastries, Italian coffee, handmade chocolate and gelato to prepared foods — from pizza, pasta and curries to Bavarian sausages, sushi and ramen noodles.

During our visit on a warm day, one of the ice-cream shops was doing a brisk business — creating towers of mini-waffles with ice-cream and sundae sauce.

Eateries and cafes — some owned by famous chefs — make up about 30% of vendors, and with extended hours — from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily — Sarona is a local favourite for a late breakfast, lunch, dinner, and after-work nibbles and drinks.

Unlike many places in Israel, it’s open seven days per week so weekends are particularly busy.

As previously mentioned, Air Transat is launching seasonal direct flights between Montreal and Tel Aviv on June 18. Two flights per week — on Wednesdays and Sundays — will continue through October. Airfares are competitive (as low as $898 from Toronto, depending on travel dates) and Toronto passengers will be able to directly connect to one flight at Montreal’s Pierre Elliott Trudeau airport.

In addition to the new flights, Transat has a number of guided tours focused on ancient history and religion, and one-week vacation packages.

Examples include:

— Bible Land: A guided tour of Biblical sights — Cana, where Jesus changed water into wine, Tabgha, site of Jesus’s multiplication of loaves and fishes, and the room on Mount Zion where the Last Supper was held — and a dip in the super salty Dead Sea.

— A one week Discover Tel Aviv & Jerusalem package with roundtrip economy flights, hotel accommodations, transfers to and from the airport, transportation in air conditioned coaches, an experienced local guide and seven breakfasts. Participants will discover the highlights of both cities, visit religious sites and have a chance to float in the Dead Sea. Prices from $2,379 (Toronto) and $1,999 from Montreal (depending on dates selected).

— Other tours, packages and custom options are also available. For full details and pricing, see transat.com.

GREAT EATS

— Before this trip, I had never heard of an "Israeli breakfast," now I can’t stop talking about it.

Originating on the kibbutz, where agricultural workers needed a hearty repast, an Israeli breakfast is served buffet-style at most hotels. It’s a morning feast of eggs, cheeses, yogurt, blintzes, pancakes, breads, pastries, olives, fresh fruit and vegetables, dips, sauces, honey, jams, fruit juices and smoothies, coffee, tea and more. As almost all Israeli hotels follow kosher food practices, an Israeli breakfast never includes meat — but you won’t miss it!

I am a new convert to shakshuka — eggs poached in a rich tomato sauce — and the sweet-tart cherry tomato jam.

— One of the best lunches of our trip was a casual nosh at Jerusalem’s Panoramic Golden City Restaurant & Cafe Roof. We sat on the rooftop terrace and ate what locals might eat — chicken shawarma and falafels tucked into warm pitas and topped with dips and spreads such as hummus, baba ghanoush, red pepper and tomato. The restaurant interior is jammed with long tables and looks like the type of place tour guides might bring large groups, but up top, the views of the Old City, including the domes of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the golden Dome of the Rock, make up for the lack of interior charm.

— We enjoyed another al fresco lunch — thin crust pizza, roasted cauliflower, pumpkin ravioli, beetroot salad and a green salad with tomatoes, olives and fresh cheese — on the patio at Beit Habad near Tel Aviv’s Sarona market. Beit Habad is Hebrew for a place where olive oil is produced, and before the city grew up around it, the Sarona area was a German agricultural settlement, where grapes, olives and oranges were grown. Adjacent to the restaurant is a small museum, where you can watch a short film on area history and see a vintage olive mill.

SLEEPOVERS

— Israel has accommodations to suit most budgets — from hostels to Jerusalem’s storied King David Hotel, which has hosted world leaders, artists and celebrities. In Jerusalem we stayed at the chic Inbal Hotel, which is within walking distance of many attractions. See inbalhotel.com. In Tel Aviv, we stayed at the beachfront Carlton Hotel, which has spacious rooms, many with sweeping ocean views. See carlton.com.il/en. Both hotels have swimming pools and serve delectable Israeli breakfasts.

MORE INFORMATION

The Israel Government Tourist Office in Toronto has extensive information about visiting the country. Contact 416-964-3784 or visit israel.travel.