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These lobsters are best when monkeyed with as little as possible. (French chefs who inject the crustaceans with champagne are missing the point.) You want yours steamed or boiled and served with melted butter and corn on the cob. Or boiled and chilled, on a bun with mayonnaise (called a lobster roll). Definitely after some fried clams or scallops. And you want to devour lobster where the locals do, in tucked-away spots close to the water. Boothbay Lobster Wharf in Boothbay Harbor, Maine, is such a place.

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