NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12: A model walks the runway at the Derek Lam Fall 2012 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at St. John's Center Studios on February 12, 2012 in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week)

NEW YORK - Here's a snapshot of what three of the industry's buzzy young designers sent down their runways at New York Fashion Week.

Lest anyone pigeonhole Jason Wu as a designer of pretty pleats and pleasingly ladylike fare, his fall 2012 collection struck bold new notes from the minute the oversize red-studded doors at the end of the runway opened to loud clanging and a fog of dry ice. Variations on sharp military jackets started the show - in drab olive, embellished with black lace cutouts, fur collars and paired with wool pants or velvet skirts, and Wu's new Daphne warrior satchels. A red Mao shirt and sheaths with epaulets followed, along with more fur accents and even a few red Qing hats.

Wu, who grew up in Taiwan, said in the program notes that he wanted to reimagine iconic Chinese imagery ranging from the Qing Dynasty to Hollywood's 1940s Shanghai Express era "through multicultural eyes." That took the form of satin sheaths, brocade suits and embellishments of embroidery and Swarov-ski crystals. His "painted cloud print" dresses were a cheeky reference to the traditional cheongsam but with modified keyhole openings. Just when it seemed like it might be getting too predictable, Wu threw in a hot-pink satin sheath with embroidery and velvet inserts that called to mind Balenciaga. Devore velvet gowns with high slits brought the show to a close.

The velvet dresses especially reminded us of Ralph Lauren's gorgeous fall 2011 collection, which read more literally than Wu's reappropriations. Whether Lauren and Wu are after the same customer remains to be seen, but expect to see a major Wu push at Nordstrom, which live-streamed the designer's show.

Alexander Wang showed at cavernous Pier 94 again, this time setting rectangular funhouselike mirrors at angles on the runway and having his models walk a mazelike path along the perimeter. Wang delivered another collection sure to please his clientele, fans including Vanessa Traina, and those who stalk his pieces online until they reach the realm of affordability.

Heavy on fabrics described as lacquered merino wool, waxed suede and smocked leather, Wang's fall vision was of severe, vaguely S&amp;M looks and lots of stiff outerwear. The best pieces were white and oxblood (burgundy) jackets and trenches. The looks were accessorized with knee-high leather boots, vinyl visors and fishnet-scale merino wool turtlenecks worn up over the mouths - as if to trumpet one of fall's biggest trends: the covered neck. Fitted, sheer turtlenecks and shifts provided some relief, and a few looks bared shoulders, but that was all, with smocked, above-the-elbow gloves.

Derek Lam lured an A-list crowd (the usual suspect editors and bloggers, Rachel Zoe and husband Rodger Berman) to the chilling, windswept St. John's Center, where he employed a runway of sideways funhouse-mirrored cubes.

His talent for transforming minimalist sportswear with rich details and fabrications started with a rather baroque floral pattern, and a white-and-black paisley jacquard that he worked into separates paired with architectural tops and sumptuous, buttery leather. There was even a down vest and coat, and a peacoat that struck a balance between sporty and refined.

Strappy, two-tone pointy-toe ankle boots, and, miracle of miracles, oxfords, carried a whiff of the early '90s - a welcome alternative to stilettos and platforms. The models also sported '60s teased coifs tucked under, a trend in the making.