A Local’s Ultimate Rio de Janeiro Itinerary

Fashion designer, conceptual artist, and environmentalist Oskar Metsavaht was born in a small town in southern Brazil, but after three decades in Rio de Janeiro, he has become a true Carioca. You can often spot him at the beach, hanging out with famous pals like Vik Muniz and Ernesto Neto, or biking along one of the lush trails at Parque Nacional da Tijuca, a tropical jungle just minutes away from the downtown bustle. “In Rio you can have an urban lifestyle and still be so close to nature,” says Metsavaht. His daily communion with the mountains, the forest, and the ocean is a source of inspiration, both for his luxury brand, Osklen, and for his multidisciplinary artistic projects. As part of the Olympics’ cultural calendar, Metsavaht is presenting a solo exhibition at the Museu Histórico da Cidade, which reopens in July after years of renovations. Taking Christ the Redeemer as a theme, he created videos, photographs, paintings, and sculptural installations depicting the building of the iconic 1920s statue, imagining its deconstruction and subsequent reconstruction. “The contrasts of this place really inspire me—there is so much sophistication and so much simplicity,” he says. Here are some of Metsavaht’s top picks in Rio, his exuberant muse.

Photo: Antonello/Getty Images

Arpoador BeachTucked between Ipanema and Copacabana beaches, Arpoador is a relatively small stretch of sand abutting a rocky peninsula. It’s a prime spot for surfing and an observatory of sorts. Most afternoons, locals flock to the largest and most seaward boulder, known as Pedra do Arpoador, to watch the sun go down. “I think the zeitgeist of the city is in Arpoador,” says Metsavaht. “You have surfers, artists, guys from the favela, and girls from Ipanema.”

Photo: Marco Antonio Monteiro/Getty Images

Tijuca National ParkAlthough it’s best known as the site of Christ the Redeemer, built atop the 2,300-foot Corcovado mountain, this nature preserve offers much more than that: multiple waterfalls and caves, hundreds of trails surrounded by tropical greenery, observation decks with exhilarating city views, and even the ruins of a historic coffee farm. “It’s considered the largest urban forest in the world,” says Metsavaht. “There are many options for trekking, and if you have a bike, you can ride up a tree-shaded road and listen to the sounds of the wilderness.” parquedatijuca.com.br

Photo: Ian Trower/Getty Images

Café do ForteThe southern tip of Copacabana beach—a section known as Posto 6—houses a little-known military museum and fort built in 1914. While the museum’s exhibits are nothing to write home about, the views from the fort’s artillery bank are truly stunning. Best of all, there’s an outpost of Confeitaria Colombo, an esteemed café that serves classic French pastries as well as Portuguese specialties like pastel de nata (an egg-custard tart). “You can sit outside and see all of Copacabana,” says Metsavaht. “It’s uncrowded and very charming.” confeitariacolombo.com.br

Villa AymoréBuilt in the early 1900s, Villa Aymoré consisted of ten eclectic-style residences where some of Rio’s most prosperous families lived, entertained, and misbehaved. After years of abandonment—to the point that one of the structures crumbled completely—these storied houses were rehabilitated by local firm Raf Arquitetura as part of a new high-end office park. But it’s not all business: Villa Aymoré is also home to Arte Clube Jacarandá, an art collective. “It’s a space for group exhibitions by contemporary artists from Rio de Janeiro, like Carlos Vergara and Raul Mourão.” villaaymore.com.br

Photo: Ruy Barbosa Pinto/Getty Images

Sítio Roberto Burle MarxOpen to the public since 2013, the former home and atelier of legendary landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx draws nature lovers and architecture enthusiasts to the out-of-the-way neighborhood of Barra de Guaratiba (reservations are required). Burle Marx, who became famous for designing the wavelike pavement in Rio’s Copacabana promenade but was also an accomplished painter, sculptor, and botanist, lived in this 100-acre estate until his death in 1994. It holds one of the most important collections of living plants in the world. “I had the chance to meet him and his frequent collaborator Oscar Niemeyer; they were icons for us Brazilians,” says Metsavaht. sitioburlemarx.blogspot.com

Photo: Brian Phillpotts/Getty Images

Ilhas CagarrasSome three miles south of Ipanema Beach is a small archipelago known as Ilhas Cagarras. Although these seven islets are uninhabited, they provide a perfect excuse to hop on a sailboat or yacht and explore the coastal scene. Several boat companies, most of them stationed at Marina da Glória, take visitors on a half-day Atlantic Ocean escapade that includes bird-watching and snorkeling around the archipelago. “It’s wonderful to observe the city from afar,” says Metsavaht. “You can see the high-rises and the relief of the mountains—it’s a very interesting point of view.” cagarras.com.br

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