Planted in 1978 the Smiths Vineyard is the source for winemaker Adrian Rodda’s single vineyard homage to Beechworth. Winemaking is simple – press grapes, put to barrel, let ferment naturally, rest on lees for ten months, put in bottle with small sulphur addition and fining.

A quiet sort of wine, restrained, elegant, the mute button on but not untoward. It’s got length of flavour and some piercing, cooling acidity, a lick of mealiness and faintly nutty finish. Reserved. Fleshiness with evolution in the glass. Perfume is subtle too – touch of cedar, touch of halva, touch of citrus and stone fruits. I like the wine, very transparent and good to drink.

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