Why?

In recent years there has been a move towards laminated tips by players searching for more consistency and an ability for the tip to hold shape better.

Unfortunately, although these features may be found on laminated tips, the downside is that they are usually way too hard, lack feel/response, tend to break/delaminate, and often cause miscues. I don't think that's good, do you?

So, I set out to make a 'hard' tip that possesses the consistency of a laminated tip, but the playability of a high quality pressed tip.

How?

Made in the UK from highest quality premium buffalo leather impregnated with natural resins using a unique method designed and developed by myself over the last few years. As far as I am aware, it is unlikely that any other tip manufacturer uses the same method because, like my cue making, nobody told me how to make tips, I had to find out the hard way by trial and error.

Every tip is inspected individually at every stage during this intensive and time consuming process and the MW logo is stamped into the base which, after light sanding preparation, provides an integral key for the glue, and guarantees the tip is genuine and authentic.

Specifications

Pack size = 2 Tips

Firm-Hard

10mm

9mm - Coming Soon

Please Note

For BlackSpin ferrule - The tip MUST be fitted to the cue with the included fibre pad to prevent long term damage to the ferrule. See fitting instructions below.

Important

Do Not attempt to re-tip any BlackSpin ferrule before watching the video here

It will show you how to re-tip any cue, BlackSpin or plain brass, with no risk of damage to the ferrule. Even if you have re-tipped many cues, I advise you to watch it and take advantage of some very useful tips on how to do it properly. Clearly that is not the case with many of you judging by the terrible condition of the many brass ferrule cues that I get in for repair. Tut tut...

Trust me, watch the video and avoid any costly mistakes.

How To Install A Fibre Pad

1) Use cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) - Any superglue is fine but preferably use gel or thick type because it is easier to control.

2) There is no need to sand the pad but lightly dampen the pad first by wetting your fingertip and touching it on the pad. Then blow on it so it is not ‘wet’ to look at. Moisture helps to cure superglue and also ensures there is no dust/dirt on the pad to cause problems with adhesion.

3) Lightly sand the back of the tip to ensure it is dead flat and clean, then dampen the tip base using the same method used in step 2 above.

4) Put the pad on a flat surface with a spot of superglue in the middle of the pad.

5) Carefully position the tip centrally on top of the pad and press down with finger pressure for a few seconds. Use enough superglue so that a little comes out all round the sides of the tip to be sure the whole tip is stuck. Do not use too much glue so that it drips over the side of the pad or you may stick it the surface you are working on. Your wife/mother’s favourite table probably…

6) Once stuck, use scissors to trim around the tip. The top edge of the scissors should run against the wall of the tip so it’s easy to guide it round and trim the excess fibre off in just a few seconds, leaving the pad almost exactly the same size as the tip.

7) Don't worry if you’re a little bit out here and there, you only need to be close enough so that you can clearly see you are positioning the tip correctly on the ferrule. But if you leave too much on, you may misjudge and stick the tip off to the side slightly, so try to trim it nice and close.

8) Lightly sand the the base of the fibre padded tip to ensure it is dead flat and clean.

9) If you wish to stick the tip to your ferrule using superglue, dampen the fibre pad again using the same technique described in step 2 above. If you wish to use epoxy or contact adhesive, do not wet the tip.