“Smacznego,” reads the sign near the counter. It means “bon appetit” in Polish. Your eye also catches a nearly century-deep assortment of sports memorabilia, including the proclaimation that “Nap Lajoie chews Red Man.” You pick dessert first, then your main dish. The Salisbury steak floats in a thin, dark brown gravy. Baked chicken is the healthiest entree on the menu. But people come here for the ethnic standards: pierogi, perfectly moist with butter and tenaciously covered with a layer of diced onions. They’re so good, you’ll barely notice the Virgin Mary statue and trophy fish staring down from the dining room’s brick walls.