The best of Rio

Saturday 20 November 2004 12.53 EST
First published on Saturday 20 November 2004 12.53 EST

Sugar Loaf is one of Rio's most famous attractions, but did you know you can party on top of it? Every Friday and Saturday night, up to 2,000 Cariocas gather on the mountain to dance under the stars to live music (Chrissie Hynde played last week). The event, called Noites Cariocas, is one of many surprises in the city. The past few years has seen a host of stylish restaurants, bars and clubs open up. And it's not just Rio's nightlife that's been given an injection of cool. For years Rio was a sexy city sorely lacking in sexy accommodation. With the exception of Copacabana Palace, the choice was limited to mid-range, bland high-rises. But that changed last year with the opening of the city's first design hotel and the launch of a network of stylish B&Bs in the bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. And there's more to come. After putting the finishing touches to Faena Hotel & Universe, Buenos Aires' first design hotel, Philippe Starck has turned his attention to Rio Universe, on Ipanema beach, due to open in 2006.

Where to eat

Manekineko

The latest addition to Rio's hugely popular sushi scene is this modern Japanese restaurant in trendy Leblon - close to old favourite, Sushi Leblon.

· Rua Dias Ferreira, Leblon, +21 2540 7461.

Gero

One of the new breed of contemporary eateries - and, according to some, the best in Rio. Beautiful interior with high ceilings, wooden floors and exposed brick walls.

·Rua Anibal de Mendonça, Ipanema, + 21 2239 8158.

Le Saint Honoré

Even if you're not a huge fan of hotel restaurants, you might want to make an exception for the newly renovated Le Saint Honore at Le Meridien. Firstly, because it's on the 37th floor of the hotel with magnificent views across Copacabana beach, and secondly for the gourmet French food served on splendid pink floral china plates.

This late-night bistro is often the last stop on a Rio night out. The young crowd spills out on to the street every night. The bar's own brew, also called Devassa, has become one of the most fashionable drinks in town.

· Rua General San Martin, 1241, + 21 2540 6087.

Bar D'Hotel

A top spot for pre- or post-dinner drinks. On the second floor of the fashionable Marina All Suites hotel (don't be put off by the unsexy name - this is where Gisele Bundchen stays when she's in town). The view across Ipanema is great, the staff are friendly and there's a fab selection of caipirinhas.

So popular it outgrew its original location -a former antiques shop where you could buy the wares as well as drinks. The three floors of the new venue are packed with a bizarre array of bric-a-brac and furniture (no longer on sale). Live bands attract young and old; a great place to practise your Samba steps.

· Rua do Lavradio, Centro, +21 2233 3239.

Where to sleep

Portinari Design Hotel

One block from the beach in Copacabana, Rio's first design hotel has 11 floors, each one conceived by a different Brazilian designer. Floor seven has a modern Oriental feel - all-white rooms with over-sized Japanese script on doors and corridor walls. The top-floor bar and restaurant have great views over the rooftops.

Run by three enthusiastic, twentysomething locals, Cama e Café (literally bed and breakfast) is another first for Rio - a network of 100 private houses in Santa Teresa. If you want to stay in one, first you have to fill in a profile questionnaire so you can be matched with a suitable host, most of whom are artists, musicians or writers. A typical example is Casa Ana Maria, a lovely colonial-style house painted orange and green and full of antiques.

From its opening in 1923, anyone who is anyone has stayed - and misbehaved -here. During an extended visit in 1942, Orson Welles threw his television out of his room into the hotel pool. Orient Express acquired the hotel in 1989 and has spent millions restoring it. 'The Copa' is still the most glamorous address in all Brazil. Naomi Campbell was spotted earlier this month, perched on a bar stool, enjoying the attention of a coterie of drooling Brazilian men.