[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /viewtopic.php on line 988: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Moscow' for 'MSK/3.0/no DST' instead[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /viewtopic.php on line 988: getdate(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Moscow' for 'MSK/3.0/no DST' insteadSolaraGuy.com • View topic - Brake Pedal Play

GreenSolara01 wrote:My brakes do the same thing , and might have been why I just got into an accident. I was in a 09 Camry rental with really good brakes. When I got my car back I was surprised how far my pedal goes down before the car slows or stops. I looked at the brake fluid reservoir and it was at the low line. Is it my low brake fluid level causing this?

I don’t suspect it to be any other components because I have replaced almost the entire system recently.

•Master Cylinder •Brake Booster •Rotors •Pads •Flush/fill Fluid

I was also curious if anyone else was having this same problem. I’ll top of fluid tomorrow but I’m still wondering what’s up with the brakes.

I topped off brake fluid helps, but still kind of a gradual stop. You guys think SS lines and better pads might help.

Ok I remember this post, funny the things you come across searching. (It would be funny if I wasn’t pissed about my car)

Got in another accident so I revisited why the brakes suck!I just finished installingDrilled and Slotted RotorsNew Ceramic Pads on all 4Flushed out the entire system a few times (fluid is clear now)New SS break linesAdjusted pedal height and free play

I did all this because the brakes suck! It doesn’t stop that well at all I’ve been in three accidents this year all happen because I need like 100 feet to stop.Any thoughts on what else to do, brakes still not stopping that well, about the same as before

GreenSolara01 wrote:My brakes do the same thing , and might have been why I just got into an accident. I was in a 09 Camry rental with really good brakes. When I got my car back I was surprised how far my pedal goes down before the car slows or stops. I looked at the brake fluid reservoir and it was at the low line. Is it my low brake fluid level causing this?

I don’t suspect it to be any other components because I have replaced almost the entire system recently.

•Master Cylinder •Brake Booster •Rotors •Pads •Flush/fill Fluid

I was also curious if anyone else was having this same problem. I’ll top of fluid tomorrow but I’m still wondering what’s up with the brakes.

I topped off brake fluid helps, but still kind of a gradual stop. You guys think SS lines and better pads might help.

Ok I remember this post, funny the things you come across searching. (It would be funny if I wasn’t pissed about my car)

Got in another accident so I revisited why the brakes suck!I just finished installingDrilled and Slotted RotorsNew Ceramic Pads on all 4Flushed out the entire system a few times (fluid is clear now)New SS break linesAdjusted pedal height and free play

I did all this because the brakes suck! It doesn’t stop that well at all I’ve been in three accidents this year all happen because I need like 100 feet to stop.Any thoughts on what else to do, brakes still not stopping that well, about the same as before

BLEED MASTER CYLINDERHINT:If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoirbecomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.(a) Disconnect the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder.(b) Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.(c) Block off the outlet plugs with your fingers, and releasethe brake pedal.(d) Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.

02slera wrote:BLEED MASTER CYLINDERHINT:If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoirbecomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.(a) Disconnect the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder.(b) Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.(c) Block off the outlet plugs with your fingers, and releasethe brake pedal.(d) Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.

So is this a two person job???I migth take it off and bech bleed itOr might get a cheap bench bleed kit and see if I can do it while installed.

02slera wrote:BLEED MASTER CYLINDERHINT:If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoirbecomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.(a) Disconnect the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder.(b) Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.(c) Block off the outlet plugs with your fingers, and releasethe brake pedal.(d) Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.

good tip tried it, got some bubbles out. going to see if I can get a hand tommorow to blead the whole thing again and see if it has improved any.

Pedal play still persists. The exact nature of the problem is when the car is off ad you pump the brake to relive the vacuum; the pedal is springy and can be pushed down about ½ to ¾ of an inch. When the car is on and you’re under normal braking conditions you have to press the pedal down at least half way with moderate pressure to stop the car. After the car is stopped you can still press the pedal down further. I also get an occasional POP when I press on the brake with some force, sounds mechanical and local to the pedal, like the adjust lock bolt might be a little lose or it could be the Booster. Not sure didn’t know if boosters could make an occasional pop sound.Bled the brakes about 5 times, bled the master due to an air ingestion issue. ( ASST LET IT RUN OUT )Finally gave up and took it to the only reputable shop I know of and they drove it and said “it was fine… … all cars brake differently… …you shouldn’t worry about it”The thing is it didn’t use to be like this. I would think after upgrading to ceramic Pads, SS Lines, Slotted/drilled Rotors, and all new fluid it would be better not worse.

Anyone else have a lot of play in the bake?Anyone have awesome stopping power?Any help would be great.

pm me your email address and i will send the "brake" shop manual for camry in pdf format.

Here is my best guess at this point.3. Piston seals (Worn or damaged)

6. Booster push rod (Out of adjustment)Going to try to find kits for F/R cylinders, rebuild them. Also going to bleed the master again. If not that, then I guess I'll check the clerance of the boosterI'm hoping its #3 FTW this time

Have you tried going to CarMax or used car dealer and trying other solaras?

Dr J

my pads are the autozone cmax brand new.ive tried other camrys and they feel alot better, most cars yiu just press a little and the car stops mine needs a lot of pressure and to push the pedal down half way to 3/4 of the way down to stop the car.

I did adjust the pedal to get the correct amount or free play to it. it is still strange

Wondering if GreenSolara01 was able to diagnose this; I'm having the same problem (poor braking, occasional pop in the brake pedal)!! I just ordered a new Master Cylinder but didn't think about the Brake Booster being a problem (I don't have any issues with the vacuum line). Otherwise, any suggestions or things to look for?

GreenSolara01 wrote::bad-words: Pedal play still persists. The exact nature of the problem is when the car is off ad you pump the brake to relive the vacuum; the pedal is springy and can be pushed down about ½ to ¾ of an inch. When the car is on and you’re under normal braking conditions you have to press the pedal down at least half way with moderate pressure to stop the car. After the car is stopped you can still press the pedal down further. I also get an occasional POP when I press on the brake with some force, sounds mechanical and local to the pedal, like the adjust lock bolt might be a little lose or it could be the Booster. Not sure didn’t know if boosters could make an occasional pop sound.Bled the brakes about 5 times, bled the master due to an air ingestion issue. ( ASST LET IT RUN OUT )Finally gave up and took it to the only reputable shop I know of and they drove it and said “it was fine… … all cars brake differently… …you shouldn’t worry about it”The thing is it didn’t use to be like this. I would think after upgrading to ceramic Pads, SS Lines, Slotted/drilled Rotors, and all new fluid it would be better not worse.

Anyone else have a lot of play in the bake?Anyone have awesome stopping power?Any help would be great.

I am having a similar problem too. Currently I also have squishy brakes and when I took it to my mechanic he said it is the brake booster that needs to be replaced. I have to press the brake pedal deeper than usual now and occasionally there is a very light whining sound like the sound brake pads make when they need to be replaced. Does anyone know where to buy a pretty low price brake booster (online, in store...) Cause ebay has a couple used for about less than $100 while inline shops like TheAutoPartsShop.com has one for $141 with shipping included. I just need help finding where to get a good one that isnt more than $200.

The brake pedal was spongy and the car did not stop very well, even with the brake pedal depressed. It turned out that a pin in one of the rear calipers broke and it was causing the other caliper to have problems too. After replacing the rear calipers, the brakes are ok again.