Make It

1. Place 1 cup water, salt, sugar, thyme sprigs and bay leaves in small saucepan; bring to a boil over high heat. Pour into 4-cup measuring cup. Add ice cubes; stir until melted. Add enough cold water to bring liquid to 4 cups. Place salmon in large pan or resealable plastic bag; pour brine over salmon. Cover and refrigerate 2 hours.

2. Meanwhile, line bottom of lightweight to medium-weight 13x9-inch baking pan with foil. Brush wire rack (slightly larger than pan) with oil; place on baking sheet. Remove salmon from brine; discard brine. Place salmon in large pan; cover with cold water. Gently stir water to release excess salt. Pour off and discard water. Pat salmon dry with paper towels. Place on oiled rack. Refrigerate, uncovered, at least 1 hour or up to 8 hours.

3. Spread dry wood chips or herb stems lengthwise down middle of 13x9-inch baking pan; place rack with salmon on top of pan. Tent with heavy-duty foil, tucking foil tightly under rim of pan. (There should be at least 1 inch between salmon and foil.) Poke small slit in center of foil. Position pan over 2 burners on stove. (Pile of chips should be over burners.) Place burners on high; if using electric stove, heat burners to high in advance. When smoke rises from slit (after about 2 minutes), begin timing salmon. Cook 5 minutes. Turn off heat; let stand 5 minutes. Remove foil. Fish should be golden colored and just beginning to flake. (If less done than preferred, replace foil; cook an additional 1 to 2 minutes.)