Kiefer Thomas wrote:Not so much as a proper running shoe, but I've had good experiences with the 5.10's, Exum Guides. At least running over short distances. Really good on rock and unstable terrain too.

I have 5.10 camp fours, the lighter version of the Exum-- I've worn out one pair, and on my second set of Camp four, and am also on my second set of savants (which have the same sole but are more mesh). The trouble is that even the savants get pretty hot out here.

5.10 used to make lighter shoes that looked like trailrunners-- I wore out 3 pairs of those, and they were actually pretty crappy for running on scree, as the soles had very shallow lugs. What was worse for me, is that all were made for high-volume feet, so I had to pull the laces really hard, and the fit was still sloppy.

But while we're at it -- do you find the Exum Guides "crampon compatible" as claimed? I looked at a pair, and they seemed to have quite flexible soles.

MoapaPk wrote:But while we're at it -- do you find the Exum Guides "crampon compatible" as claimed? I looked at a pair, and they seemed to have quite flexible soles.

I laughed when I read that too! I picked em' up specifically for the approach to Chimney Rock & Turret Ridge (Cimarron's in Colorado). Crampons on an approach shoe/running shoe. No thank you. I'll never do that for exactly what you mentioned, soles are too soft & pliable.I cherish my toes. I knew a few folks out here who spring climb in approach shoes with points but to me, it's not safe.If I don't have an axe and (or) points, I have no business on a snow slope. I've taken a lot of falls/slides in my day. Not looking to repeat any!

They specifically say "strap-on crampons". You can put those on tennis shoes and walk up snow slopes where you'd otherwise be slipping all over the place. It should be obvious that there are limitations.

What's with the big price bump in the Five Ten approach shoes? I was going to order another pair of Camp 4 shoes but they went up about 50% from a year ago. Is this because Adidas bought the company? At $150+ I figure it's worth the time to shop around for alternatives.

I have some Sportiva Raptors I bought last year for Pikes. The little bit of research I did at the time said that the sole was Sportiva's stickiest in a running shoe. They seeem to be okay but I really don't notice much difference between these and my NB 915s as far as grip on rock. I don't think they grip as well as my old Five Tennies did or my first gen Sportiva Exum Ridge but that could be due to the aggressively lugged sole that just doesn't allow as much sole to grab. Medium fit, decent rock plate. I need my shoes just a little stiff due to injuries.

One of the best trail runners I've owned. Light, breathes well, great on down hill dirt and the sticky rubber is pretty good although I've never really tried it on anything technical.

Do they run true to size? I see them selling for $20 below list a few places. I usually get M9.5 in a hiking/approach shoe, M10 in a running shoe. I have low-to-medium volume feet, toes a little wide.

I wear between a size 8.5 to a 9 depending on the shoe manufacturer, so I have found the size 42 euro fits me like a glove for trail runners and hiking shoes. These seemed to run true to size as my Scarpa Zens are a 42 and fit just as well.

This has got me re-thinking my approach to shoes (again): if a competent climber can do the Palisades traverse in dry conditions wearing trail runners, it makes me wonder why so many of us still insist on wearing things like Camp Fours, or the lightweight Salewas (what I use most of the time if there's no snow), etc.

Trail runners with sticky rubber, and probably designed so you can edge a little (compared to other running shoes). Thanks again for the pointer-- definitely interested. The 5.10s that gave me the most confidence on rock were their old running shoe models; but I bought them "small."

MoapaPk wrote:But while we're at it -- do you find the Exum Guides "crampon compatible" as claimed? I looked at a pair, and they seemed to have quite flexible soles.

I laughed when I read that too! I picked em' up specifically for the approach to Chimney Rock & Turret Ridge (Cimarron's in Colorado). Crampons on an approach shoe/running shoe. No thank you. I'll never do that for exactly what you mentioned, soles are too soft & pliable.I cherish my toes. I knew a few folks out here who spring climb in approach shoes with points but to me, it's not safe.If I don't have an axe and (or) points, I have no business on a snow slope. I've taken a lot of falls/slides in my day. Not looking to repeat any!

i guess we all laugh at different things. i've been using strap-ons with my 5.10s since 5.10 has been making approach shoes, addidas before that, and they work just great if thats what you need to get to your climb. heck, i remember back in 1998 when wallspeck and i were soloing the gulley on n peak athe beginning of one of our traverse days. wallspeck did the route, half ice/ neve in his nike runners with strap-ons... oh yeah, he only had one axe too... 60 degree ice can get comfortable with the strap-ons...

x15x15 wrote:i guess we all laugh at different things. i've been using strap-ons with my 5.10s since 5.10 has been making approach shoes, addidas before that, and they work just great if thats what you need to get to your climb. heck, i remember back in 1998 when wallspeck and i were soloing the gulley on n peak athe beginning of one of our traverse days. wallspeck did the route, half ice/ neve in his nike runners with strap-ons... oh yeah, he only had one axe too... 60 degree ice can get comfortable with the strap-ons...

I see people with crampons on light shoes, and I don't know how they do it. Whenever I try to wrap the straps around my ankles, I end up in great pain. Worse, I tend to squirm out of rigid crampons when I wear them with soft soles. Obviously, some people are not bothered by this problem. My paralyzed foot tends to squirm out first, so maybe I'm just not walking correctly.