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Use a metal spudger to carefully pry the headphone jack out of the casing. DO NOT remove the headphone jack from the iPod entirely, as it is connected via a fragile ribbon connector to the click wheel.

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Use a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the logic board. You need to gently pry the connector toward (or up, if you like, the connector is like LEGO® building blocks) the front of the iPod until it comes loose from the logic board.

Special hint for the reassembly: Push the connector inside until it is over the corresponding connector of the logic board. Then insert a thin tool over the connector and push it down onto the logic boards connector.

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When removing the logic board, place the tip of the spudger into the hole where you removed the screw and gently push it out. The crevice will keep it in place and decrease the chance of you damaging your board.

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Use a metal spudger to carefully pry the metal bracket off the back of the display. Make sure you only pry off the bracket and not the clear shielding on the rear of the display. By working from the inside of the display, you won't be able to accidentially pry up the clear plastic shielding.

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I also had a white screen. I emailed ifixit support and Brady Cabe suggested I reseat the display connector. That did it!

One hint: when you reverse the steps, you will have to reinstall the top bezel but you don't have to completely reassemble the bottom in order to test it. The earphone plug can be left hanging out (avoiding wear and tear on the fragile ribbon cable) as well as the metal brace and the three screws that hold everything together at the bottom - that reduces the possibility of stripping the screws. In my case, I did strip one of the bottom screws: the screen was broken in a car accident that also bent the case enough to make it hard to get to one of the teeny tiny screws. Even though I stripped that one, I was able to get it out by turning it with a (tiny) straight blade screwdriver: there was enough purchase for that even though the head of the screw does not have much material left.

I found that a 000 Phillips screwdriver worked FAR better than the 00 for all of the screws. Also, the one I repaired had a surprising amount of adhesive holding the battery down. The square end of the plastic spudger worked well to separate the battery from the rest of the internals allowing it to be rotated down and out of the way.

No success here. I could not figure out how the black retainer worked in order to release the ribbon cable for the display. I ended up breaking it. I tried to put it back together anyway to see if there was sufficient contact to make it work, but evidently not. Oh well, a $50 lesson. One other tool that is needed here is a jeweler's magnifying glass. Magnified pics in these instructions would also be a benefit. Also, can someone tell me how you're supposed to get that one recessed screw back in place?