Now Yes Start and ~1.8bar

Ken,
Distributor rattle is caused by too loose a timing belt. Must be much
tighter than that of a 10V.
Your WP o-ring will seal if all is clean and you sumpliment it with a
film of Si caulk.
Give the car the “snake oil“ treatment to eliminate current and
potential rotary shaft seal leaks. Full bottle of engine oil seal
restorer in engine, ½ bottle in tranny, other half in rear diff.
Bernie
On Nov 23, 2008, at 2:23 PM, Kenneth Keith wrote:
> Yeah, I don't know what the deal is with the check engine light. I
> need to
> pass emissions, after failing the first time, so although I changed
> the fuel
> and oil, plugs, ran some Seafoam through it, and O2 sensor, I
> thought I'd
> give it a chance to tell me if there were any faults. Now I've
> also changed
> the fuel filter and fixed some vacuum leaks, as well as verified the
> function of the MFTS and TPS. With no codes popping up, I guess
> I'll get
> the free retest.
>> I took it on the test drive and didn't even get out of the
> neighborhood when
> I hit the overboost fuel cutoff at only 1.2 or so indicated (stock
> gauge so
> far, but an analog gauge from my previous 200q20v is coming). So I
> head
> back home and check the WG diaphragm and lower hose. All is good
> there and
> reading SJM's site I almost suspected the MAF sensor, but then I
> saw that I
> must have popped off the vacuum line to the FPR when I checked the
> distributor (vacuum! vacuum! vacuum!). Popped that back on and I'm
> seeing
> mostly 1.7bar (I saw 0.9bar with the key on, engine off earlier
> today) and
> even 1.8bar for a moment. To me it feels slow, probably because my
> last
> 200q20v was at about 14psi and I recently drove that 2.0t FSI A3,
> but I
> believe I am indeed getting full boost. I have Ben Swann's 2.5bar
> chipset
> to go in when I'm brave enough to crack into one of the ECUs and
> solder in
> the 2.5bar PT (and chip sockets?), or find someone capable of doing
> it for
> me.
>> I bought some vacuum hose and I'll replace the underhood pieces.
> The water
> pump is weeping, which may be from when I had to loosen it to move
> the PS
> pump and bracket to get the radiator replaced. The timing belt
> looked very
> fresh so in trying to direct money towards the right things I think
> I may
> replace the only water pump o-ring rather than throw a whole timing
> belt
> regiment on it like I usually do (I thought I remembered the o-
> rings sold by
> themselves without pumps, but I can't find them so I may be
> thinking of
> thermostat o-rings, which are available. Anyone know what size the
> water
> pump o-ring is?). The rear main seal may have a leak, so I've got
> bigger
> fish to fry. I'll try some seal conditioner first before I drop
> the tranny
> for a few drips.
>> I bought this car after it was sitting for maybe a year or more by
> the PO,
> so I blame the very old gas for the poor emissions results (high NOX).
> Silly me jumping the gun trying to smog it before the old crap was
> cleared
> out. There is a lot of stuff I suppose that needed to be done on
> this car,
> but having dealt with used 200q20v's before I think it's coming
> together
> pretty well. The driver door lock linkage was busted so I fixed that
> thinking I would also have to rewire the power window wires in the
> jamb,
> because some didn't work, but I WD-40'ed the switches and they now
> work.
>> Since I was underneath looking at the rear brakes I threw on the stock
> catback from my wrecked 200q20v to replaced the multiply-perforated
> one this
> one had. Strange that the one on there was all one piece with the two
> mufflers, but the one from my old car had another joint between the
> two
> mufflers, which was easier to handle. I thought the water pump was
> warbling, but after feeling how loose the distributor rotor is I
> think it's
> just distributor rattle (does it make noise at idle, or is that
> just when
> coming off throttle?).
>> This car like all the other 200q20v's I've been around has the hood
> catching
> on the passenger wiper arm. What's the fix for that? Move the
> wiper up so
> that it parks higher (unattractive) and/or pull the hood forward
> slightly
> (seems to match up with the fenders fine like it is).
>> I think something is up with the climate control, of course. Aside
> from it
> not blowing consistently cold with the a/c on, it almost feels like
> the
> heater is on when it's on econ and set to a lower temp than ambient.
>> Also, the autocheck seems to be really pessimistic about how many
> more miles
> I have 'til empty. When I'm just in the red or so it's already
> claiming 30
> miles to go, etc. I've taken it down to E with just a little more
> room to
> go until where the needle rests with the key off, and it takes more
> than 30
> miles to get there from when the autocheck starts warning.
>> I was almost sad when this car wouldn't start, since I already have
> one
> 200q20v pearl yard ornament that won't start. I was hoping to, and
> still
> plan to, use this running example to be able to swap and diagnose
> the other
> one. Once I get both running I'll have to decide which one gets
> the RS2
> parts, suspension, and other stuff I had installed or planned for my
> previous 200q20v. Or maybe I'll sell both and get an 95.5 S6 Avant
> since I
> still would like to have one. One step at a time though.
>> Anyway I hope this one stays running. Thanks for the tips and
> encouragement.
>> Cheers,
>> Kenneth
>> On Sun, Nov 23, 2008 at 2:45 PM, <rbade12 at aol.com> wrote:
>>> Kenneth,
>>>> It is a bit puzzling that the pieces of the puzzle don't add up,
>> the check
>> engine light and the fuel filter. Hopefully it's one of those,
>> "well it's
>> working, not going to think about it" deals! Let us know how
>> behaves on the
>> test run.
>>>> Good luck
>>>> Bob
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Kenneth Keith <auditude at gmail.com>
>>>> Ok, so the new fuel filter is in. I check for spark and have
>> spark. So I tried to start it again and it starts and I have a
>> check engine light. I
>> pull codes and get 4444. I turn it off and restart fine, and I
>> notice that
>> the fuel pump actually doesn't make a noise until it's cranking,
>> but the
>> clicking I heard before, which must not be the FP relay after all.
>>>> Hmm. I guess it's off for a hopefully 1.8bar test drive, AAA Plus
>> card and
>> cell phone in hand (and my FP relay jumper and another FP relay).
>>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>> Kenneth
>>>>> _______________________________________________
> 200q20v mailing list http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v