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Official Website

Hours

Nearby Subway Stops

L at Montrose Ave.

Prices

$13-$17

Payment Methods

MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

Take-Out

Reservations Not Required

Alcohol

Full Bar

Reservations

Not Accepted

Profile

In several ways, Win Son seems like a Taiwanese-American Momofuku. There’s the lowercase menu lettering; the small glasses that accompany the Taiwanese beer; the inventive, interpretive approach to an ethnic cuisine. There are small-plate appetizers, stark white bowls of noodles, and lots of pork. But mostly, there’s the knack for sandwiches. Where David Chang built an empire on pork buns (and is trying to do the same with fried-chicken sandwiches), chef Trigg Brown is banking on his own canny constructions. His Nutritious Sandwich is a Croissan’wich for the ages, its sweet fried-dough roll encasing sliced ham and pickled pineapples. The Big Chicken Bun, with its supercolossal slabs of seasoned dark meat protruding from the edges of its squishy pineapple bun like an Iowa pork-tenderloin sandwich, is a delicious understatement. (Fermented-­tofu mayo’s a nice touch.) The theme extends to dessert — a simple but deadly vanilla-ice-cream sandwich, served inside a fried mantou bun with sweetened condensed milk cascading down the sides.
— Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite