One of most anticipated streetstyle collections to show at NYFW, Yeezy Season 5 was a surprisingly more subdued presentation this time around.

This year, Kanye chose a more exclusive approach and to make his show less of a spectacle, a far cry from previous seasons’ shows.

With all the paparazzi and media attention both Kim Kardashian and Kanye West receive, the lack of buzz came as a bit of a surprise and post-coverage virtually absent compared to past seasons. In tune with this more low key approach and after some scheduling conflicts, invites went out on the eve of the showing. Like previous seasons, it was wearable: an oversized olive green sweatshirt with “LOST HILLS” across the front and sleeves (as seen below).

The 300-person show was hosted at Pier 59 in a dark room with a pitch black obelisk right smack in the middle. Images of each model were projected on the obelisk with four wall-like screens that stretched upward at least 20 feet and broadcast each look live, one at a time with a 360-degree camera. The audience didn’t actually see the models, until the final walk where all models finally appeared.

This Yeezy presentation at NYFW was all about “ less is more”, from the open space and dark venue to the new music released by Kanye West The-Dream’s reference track of J. Holiday’s “Bed”. The vibe was overall subdued. The front row was made up of the usual suspects, It Girls and millennials mixed in with top industry talents: Hailey Baldwin, Virgil Abloh, La La Anthony, Steven Klein, Pusha, Kylie Kardashian, Tyga, ASAP Ferg, Anna Wintour, and architect Pete Marino. Both newcomers and classic favorites on the runway included Halima Aden (Muslim model who wore her hijab in the show), Luka Sabbat, Selah Marley, Sofia Ritchie and Amina Blue.

The look is being named “New Americana” rooted in the workwear and military staples of past seasons, adding plenty of Western-inspired silhouettes. Trucker jackets, washed denim, flannel shirts and Yeezy’s trademark woodland camos were prevalent in Carhartt-inspired work jackets and fatigue pants. Nineties weathered streetwear had a moment on the runway. Flannel workwear jacket was worn over sweaters and stone-washed straight-leg cool-mom jeans were tucked into knee-high, slouchy suede high-heel boots.

The boot and pants combo continued with rusty suede over-the-knee stilettos over faded black jeans, and burgundy leather thigh boots over a burgundy Adidas tracksuit with the jacket tucked into the pants. There was plenty of camouflage, as well as big hoodies and varsity jackets with the “Calabasas” logo. Accessories included gigantic duffels, baseball caps and a white and teal sneaker for men that would make suburban dads look like suburban dads.

Though received with mixed reviews, as is every Yeezy show, the Season 5 collection stayed true to the monochrome aesthetic of past collections, while injecting street edge, and adding a touch of Americana. Share your thoughts on the collection Let us know in the comments below!