NS 2400 - 3D printed model

Most of my train collection encompasses German trains, mostly because you can buy them everywhere. Nothing wrong with that of course but being Dutch, I would like to be able to have some Dutch trains.

Of course there is Philotrain, very exclusive, nicely detailed, but not widely available and pretty expensive. Most Philotrain models are made for display, not really for extensive driving either.

Well, in my opinion there are lots of loco’s to choose from when you look at the Dutch railways. I wanted to try something not too difficult, which has led me to the NS2400.
It’s a pretty simple loco when it comes to curves and shapes, the design originates in French: Alstom.

I wanted to try to make it by using 80% 3D printing technique.
First of all, to start I made a 2D drawing to get to know the loco.

After that, I started with the basic shapes of the upper body to get the right feeling with the Loco. Everything had to be designed to meet the guidelines for Grey Resin Material. This material has a bouncing box from 250x250x235cm, so the complete loco would never fit. De body of the loco is designed as parts which click together.

First off all started drawing separate parts:

For the bogies and the main frame, I used Polyamide (nylon),this is very strong and durable. The bogies are designed as 3 separate parts. The middle frame holds the engines (20/20B), the wheels, and the pick-ups. The bogies are screwed on separately.
The main frame is drawn as one piece, which will also be printed in Polyamide.

I made some colour previews to see what it could look like

Compared to the Grey Resin, the Polyamide is not as smooth. But that shouldn’t be a problem if you weather the model later on.

It will still take some time to finish the model, but I’m very content with the looks and feel it’s already got.

The loco is/will be powered by 3x 20/20b Faulhaber engines, I thinks that should be more then enough.

The nylon is, when you print it, not as solid as when you compare it to a "normal" piece of nylon. So in the beginning when you spraypaint it, it will suck upp the paint into the material.
I used standard Motip car paint for the first baselayer on the bogies and the main frame.

Next step will be drawing the wire grill on top and on both sides of the loco. I'm thinking of using the etching skills of Jurgen Moog for that.

Really cool project! As far as I know, this is the very first 0 gauge model which is completely scratch built and interely 3D printed. There are some narrow gauge locos, but most of them use available chassis or bogies. Have you ever added up the man hours and external costs for you model? I guess, the 3D printed parts are not cheap. But for a loco its worth it. I wonder if there is some synergy with the current E103 project ? As all mould construction starts with a 3D model, and the initiator is from the Netherlands as you are, maybe get in touch?

Wonderful work, keep it up. Really looking forward to see your next steps, maybe this could be an article for the magazine when it is finished? Do you have any timing in mind or do you just let the hobby flow?

really nice looking model. What are your experiences with the dimensional stability of the body? All of those I've seen so far had a tendency to skew sooner or later ...
As the body on your loco is quite large, what do you have in mind, to prevent distortion?

To be honest, I have no idea how many hours are in there. I started drawing in March, and finished in I think in July? I don't really keep a log.

I have nothing to do with the E103 project, I have enough projects on my own and don't want to work with others because then i have to finish stuff.... I mostly work on all kinds of projects at the same time, and when I can't find the energy to finish a project, I put it aside to restart it at a later time.
I do watch the project of the E103 with great interest, but that's it I'm afraid.

Now to answer your last question, it will be finished when it will be finished, depends on my mood, time, etc

Well, I think time will tell.
But I designed the model to get it's stability when screwed together.
De resin itself, it's pretty stable. The nylon has the tendency to deform if not supported, but screwed to the resin body, it's very straight.