::blinks:: the battery would die with in minutes, 5 minutes max of power and that's if the charger keeps it really nice and charged. Best bet is to use a deep cycle Optima yellow top battery, it's used for high end audio systems in cars, also a capacitor would be needed.

Instead of 20amps go with a 40 or 50 amps. I would do parallel so you don't end up hurting other power devices.

Get rid of the lamp, cable modem/router and speakers. The UPS system is there so you can save your work and shut the system off, it's not meant to run the system fully off of battery like a laptop.

heh, yea. Well, I like the router/cable modem on there so I can shutdown the main rig and continue doing work from my laptop for hours. Since cable doesn't need power to be sustained, internet will stay up most all the time.

As for the light, I turn it off when power goes out. Its just nice to have connected so I can use it when powers out

As for the time being min, yes, I know, I get like 3 min now tops!

You mention a CAP. What would be the point? Isn't a CAP just a battery?

I have installed CAPS before, and I am aware of how to use them. However, it was my knowledge that when the car is running your alternator is designed to push the electronics of your car at 14 volts. So, you have about 2 volts of extra there beyond keeping the battery charged. The purpose of the CAP is to handle the spikes needed by the amp at times when the alternator can't keep up. This keeps the car battery from dying and your lights and other electronics inside the car from being drained of the power they need.

Now, I don't understand how a cap is going to benefit me. As I understand, its just a small battery in the connection closest to the power source, to prevent drain on the alternator...

I've done this mod. It's quite useful. I got 36 hours of power off of two wheelchair batteries wired in parallel. I mean... I was only running a laptop and an external HD.. so the draw was about 130W or so at load.

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