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Does anybody have any info. on all whats involved to change to gear cams so i can get rid of the chains! Thanks.

I have an 06 ultra. I installed these on mine and love them. I bought mine from woodcarbs.com. they also have info on different sizes for the performance you are looking for.I used the tw-8g. If you know what you are doing, its not much different from installing reg. chain cams. they will also offer apon request step by step installation instructions. hope this helped.

There are probably dozens of articles in the self help section of this forum on the gear change. I had considered changing to gears, but instead, upgraded to the hydraulic tensioners on my '99 Ultra. IMO it's not the chains that are the problem, but the tensioners. Gear drives have their place, but I like the overall performance of my hydraulic tensioners and the chains.

If you have a service manual you'll have no problem, most gear drives come with complete step by step instructions. S&S 510G you can get through drag or cci for about $700.00 for complete kit with the good bearings, all gears and gaskets included. You might want adjustable push rods unless you want to pull your fuel tank & rockers. I would also replace lifters with the cams, the rollers well have wear patterns from the old cams. I perfer S&S to andrews because all gears come pressed on and ready to install.

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Hollow Points - For Those Who Care Enough to Send the Very Best

I have done a HOT ROD motor on a 2000 FXDS way back in 2001.... I went with 570SS gear drives/feuling oil pump/delkron cam plate, ALL BIG $$$$ today....
IF the option were mine TODAY,,, I would go with the KIT to convert to HYDRAULIC TENSIONERS and with the KIT( HD's at 429.99) comes the MUCH NEEDED newer style oil pump (improved volume) and a new style cam plate to convert to HYDRAULICS with the other stuff needed for the conversion.... THEN pick out the cams wanted.... YES to the need on NEW lifters on either way you go...

I like the SS cams better ALSO... and I prefer to go with ADJUSTABLE push rods, right from the get-go and HD's SE are good..

It gets REAL pricey $$$ to go gear drive and replace all the NEED upgrades to do it properly...(oil pump & cam plate by self 700$)

YOU can JUST go like suggested or do the EXTRA way in the KIT upgrade and get the best from BOTH WORLDS....LOT OF PARTS FROM THE KIT @ 429.99$,,, MIGHT be a good price to JUST GO with using pump n plate from KIT and STILL GO GEAR DRIVE... depending on what you do with the heads , and bore, I also suggest usong the 510SS cams....

I put over 50,000 miles on my HOT ROD dyna with GEAR DRIVES and LOVE IT. but remember i had ALL the upgraded parts I FELT were needed!

Does anybody have any info. on all whats involved to change to gear cams so i can get rid of the chains! Thanks.

If your gonna try and do it yourself, it'll cost ya. You have to purchase some pretty special tools for Jim's Tools, see the cam section of their catalog, you'll also need a bench bearing press. The tools'll cost about $500 but if ya got some buddies that wanna chip in and change cams too it's worth it.
On a 88TC, I really liked the Andrews 26G cams, Andrews also has the Gear Drive kit, get the Harley quick adjust push rod kit and cam installation kit. Remove the air cleaner assembly. If ya don't wanna pull your head pans off, get some bolt cutters to cut your ol push rods. pull the lifters, mark for locations and save, remove the exhaust, floorboard on the right side and the cam cover (little oil in there) remove the cams and chain, remove the cam support plate and save, measure the inset of the inner cam needle bearings, then remove them and install the new needle bearings, remove the old cams, bearings and tensioners from the support plate and install the new gears and cam as per the instructions, re-install the support plate, torque and reinstall the cover, reinstall the lifters, your new adjustable push rods, floor boards and exhaust, then ride it like ya stol it. You'll notice a little more tappet noise and possibly some gear whine, you might also want to change out your ignition to the 5 or 10 deg 6500rpm SE modual. That'll make your valves happy and get rid of any possibility of Knock. Of course assmbly lube everthing and torque all bolts per the service manual.

Does anybody have any info. on all whats involved to change to gear cams so i can get rid of the chains! Thanks.

If you are committed to the idea of gear drive, give Herko (John Wadsworth) at Flying W Performance (google it) a ring and see what his kit has in it and get comparative pricing from him. Mention being a member here too.

But give the idea of a roller chain conversion some thought. Getting rid of the spring loaded tensioners is the main driver in any change decision. Both the gear drive and the roller chain conversion accomplish this objective.

You need to check run out on crank shaft, Before you buy gear drive,
The run out can not be very bad or the gears won't work.
Also you will get noise with gears, Some more than others, but you will get some noise over chain drive.
However after you go to gears you never need to look at it again.