Sometimes, mid-cooking, I like to jettison my plan and make a new, better plan. The trick is knowing when it’s better. I’m not saying I randomly hobble myself, cruelty-cooking-show style, it’s just that it’s exciting to change it up sometimes. And it surprises the family. Historically, some of the best jettison dinners at my house have started out as regular old pasta night and ended up as gather-around-the-skillet-with-bowls-and-bread night. This was one of those.

Nduja, a spicy salami now produced domestically, blends cured pork fat and chiles in a spreadable, meltable consistency. Combining it with lobster is transformative, taking this basic pasta Pomodoro to the next level.

Grilling a whole fish doesn’t have to be daunting, especially if you use this turning method to minimize the risk of tearing the skin. Lay the fish horizontally across the grill grate with the top fins toward you and cook. When it's time to turn, wedge two metal spatulas under the fish—one near the tail and the other at the head—then quickly and confidently roll it away from you onto its other side in one fluid motion.