1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sat Jan 12, 2013 10:26 pm

I just acquired a Cub Cadet Diesel.....can't remember model #......maybe a 1772.....Gonna try to get it started tomorrow. Is there anything I need to know or be aware of about this mower?? I need all the help I can get on it, so if any of you have ANY KIND of information I would find useful, lay it on me!! The only think I've tried so far is just turning over the key. I did, and found that the "small fan" on the driveshaft between your legs spins with the driveshaft while cranking and it all moves about and tries to get bound up moving around. Is that supposed to move? What is it for? ALso, the starter sounded funny....it would turn over good, slack up, turn over, slack up, .....it wasn't a smooth turn over.

I'll be able to get pics and video tomorrow, so for now, I just need some good introductory information to try and get this thing running to see if it is worth restoring.Once I find that out, I'll probably buy the manuals for it. I know NOTHING about this tractor....so any kind of info is needed.

THANKS ALL!

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Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:25 am

Been trying to do some research, and have really came up on the short end......basically all I've found out is that it has a Kubota 3 cyl. Diesel Engine and Everything else is Hydraulic.

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:22 am

Ok, I'll try to answer some of your questions.

Yes, the drive shaft on a hydro tractor spins all the time, so yes, that little fan under the tunnel cover should spin any time the engine crankshaft is turning. They are actually coupled together with flexible couplers.

The little Kubota diesel engine is a FABULOUS engine. They are nearly bullet proof, and have TONS of power for a garden tractor. The starter is a Hitatchi, and they do sound different. Make certain that you have a really good battery with a strong charge. Do not try to start with a weak battery, you will burn up the starter. If the starter sounds really bad, pull it and have it rebuilt. The last one I did was about $50 to be rebuilt.

Because it is a diesel, there are glow plugs. The engine will NEVER start if the glow plugs are not used to heat the fuel prior to starting. The Kubota is all cast iron and way too cold natured to start without glow plugs. I believe (but not sure) that you turn and hold the key backwards, opposite of the start/run direction, to activate the glow plugs. Also, there should be a chrome thumb hole on the dash, where you hold your thumb while holding the glow plugs on. When your thumb gets hot, the glow plugs have done their job.Then you can try to start it. It should look like this:If no thumb hole is present, there may be an indicator light instead, which should brighten as the glow plugs get hotter. Don't hold it too long, as you don't want to burn out the glow plugs. Read the manual first!

Your tractor appears to be the Cub Cadet 1772 diesel. Be careful, they made that same tractor with a Kubota, 3-cylinder GASoline engine. The differences should be obvious, but believe it or not, it's really hard to tell the difference between the two because the fuel injectors on the diesel look a whole lot like the spark plugs on the gas engine. Just double check!!!

If it's sat for a long time, you might as well start by draining the fuel tank and getting a new fuel filter to install. Remember, diesel's are not like gas engines, you'll need to prime the fuel filter and pump, as they typically do not self-prime like a gas engine. It's a pain in the a$$ but you don't have to do it very often. A diesel engine will NEVER start if any water is present in the fuel. They only start on compression, and water can be real bad in there!

Take your time with it. They are WELL worth the time to restore!

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 1:16 pm

Thank you so much for the good information. Also, what are done common issues I should look for and check ? I will get to work on the fuel draining and at least clean out the fuel filter if anything for now.

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:29 pm

Looked at the hood this morning, and yes it's a 1772 Diesel. Removed the deck, and took off the fenders to get a better look at things. Here are some pictures before I did that.

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Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:36 pm

I took off the fenders and removed deck, got it in the shop and then blowed it off good with the air hose. I checked and there is about 1/4 to 1/2 tank diesel in there. The guy said it's been about 1 year since it's ran, so for now I'm gonna leave it. I looked and didn't see the exit hose on the tank.....I guess I could drain it using the fuel pump. I took the line loose right where it goes into the sediment bowl/filter housing. Then I turned on the key to see if the fuel pump was working and a good flow came out. Everything seemed to work fine....the diesel seemed a little "oily" and was close to the color of gasoline; but I'm really not that familiar with diesels as much as gas engines. Also took the air filter out and blew it with air. The filter element looked really good, but one of the clips that holds the cup on is missing. Also, the white wire in the pictures coming from the starter has a ring terminal on it that looks as if it connects to the positave battery cable. When you touch it to the battery...no matter if key is on or not, the starter will spin the tractor over. Not trying to start it just yet, but I know somethings not right there. So far that's where I'm at....

Looking through the manual now.

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 4:00 pm

Here is a video of me trying to start it after I bled all the fuel lines, bled the inj. Pump, and and bled the injectors. Not hitting. Hmmm

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 4:15 pm

To start a diesel that hasn't ran in a while or has ran out of fuel you have to take the line off at least 1 of the injectors and crank it over till fuel squirts out of the line you removed. Air doesn't compress easily to the pressure injectors need.

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 5:39 pm

Got it running and it runs great!!! Jut took a taste of ether after i bled all the air out. But let me know what you think about the way the starter sounds and why the drive shaft turns like it does. It's not a smoth turn.

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 6:11 pm

From the video, starter sounds ok. Try cleaning all battery connections and charging battery, then trying it again.The drive shaft seems to be slipping in the clutch housing. Do not know if something is loose or clutch is worn out.Check for loose motor mounts, and where the drive shaft attaches to the motor. That may solve you drive shaft wobble.Be interesting to know why the starter switch was bypassed.

Rodney

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 6:24 pm

There is no clutch on a hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet. All the "clutch/brake" pedal does is shifts the hydro linkage to the neutral position, then applies the brakes. It never does disconnect the engine from the driveline.

It appears that the rear coupling is no longer bolted to the drive shaft. That's pretty common. The two flexible couplers are what attach the drive shaft to the hydro pump. There should be two bolts through the couplers to the hydro pump, the at 90-degrees, the drive shaft should be bolted through the couplers with two more bolts. The idea is that the driveshaft will always drive the pump, but the flexible couplers allow the engine to vibrate and move around without transmitting that vibration to the hydro pump and breaking something. The bolts (and actually the coupler where the holes are drilled through) are the weakest parts, and meant to give out before breaking something. More common than not, the coupler dry rots and the bolts pull through. There's another set of them at the engine end of the driveshaft, so if you go replacing, I would do all of them.

I think that the silver thing the fan is attached to is actually a centrifugal clutch, so that the fan only spins above a certain engine RPM. I've actually never seen that setup, but it's the only thing that makes sense. Typically, the fans are just clamped directly to the drive shaft.

I'm glad to hear that you got her going. Those diesel engines are awesome. Looks like you might need a set of exhaust manifold gaskets. The starter sounds fine, but I would replace the ground and starter leads. I just worked on a CC about the same age as yours, and could not figure out why it would not start. Turned out the main lead from the positive terminal to the starter, was connected, showed 12.4 volts at the starter, but would not carry enough amps to actually engage the starter. Went to NAPA and bought a pre-made starter cable for $16.00 and she starts just fine. Trust me, cheap, easy fix, so just go ahead and do it.

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:41 pm

Yeah. It goes forwards and backwards fine. I used it to pull the 129 in the shop since I couldn't push it in. I did notice after I first started it up while it was running that a couple of couplers on top of a hydraulic valve towards the rear of the tractor started bubbling and allowing fluid to come out tiny air holes. If you tried to operate the lift levers, it'd (fluid) shoot up in the air. After letting it run about 15 minutes it quit mostly. I realize since the dipstick is missing and the fluid is milky that it needs to be changed. Maybe it did that cause it was overfull

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:06 pm

I never try to start anything new to me with out draining and changing the oil. There are 2 reasons for this. The first is to see what the oil oil looks like and the second is to see what the old oil looks like.

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:00 pm

I did check the oil and there was no water present and it was at the required full level. A oil change will be in store though as the oil was very black. We are gonna do a good tune up and fix all needed items. Was going to make a list of parts needed but started raining badly and decided to leave and head back south for the week. I was also wanting to drain the fluids but decided not to since it would be sitting all week and possibly 2 weeks with no fluids. I'll just do it when I get back up there.

Thank you So much for the help this far!!!!

Re: 1980's Cub Cadet Diesel - NEED HELP

Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:54 am

First of all, nice find on the 1772! That is one rare cub cadet. I've got one and love it! First thing I'd do is go ahead and drain all the diesel out and put in new. While you're at it, it's a good idea to replace the fuel filter and all the fuel line from the tank all the way up. There is also a screen in the tank that can become clogged with junk that needs to be cleaned. Change the oil in the engine as well. These Kubotas are tough little engines and pull great. On the driveshaft, diesels are known to eat driveshafts due to the torque. Check the front connections and rear connections. The rear coupler that connects to the hydro pump could be loose. If it is and left loose, it can ruin the hydro pump. Also check the flex discs in the front and back and make sure they aren't wearing out. If you have any sort of vibration when throttling up, the driveline needs attention. The disconnect clutch by the fan is factory. It helps starting, especially when cold. Keeps the hydro from turning until it starts and the RPM's are higher.

To start, you need to have a good battery. Turn the key to the left for roughly 15-20 seconds and the glow plugs should warm and you'll hear the fuel pump. Make sure to move the throttle to roughly half throttle. If it colder out, you can turn the key back to the left for another 15-20 seconds or turn it to the right and try to start it. Words of warning: DONT USE ETHER!!! That is the quickest way to destroy the little Kubota! These are nice tractors and there are updates to assist with starting: glow plug updates, adding second ground cable, block heaters, starter upgrades, etc.........

Another thing to check is the bolts going through the frame into the rear end. These are also notorious for working loose and wallowing out the holes. Take a 9/16 wrench and make sure these bolts are tight. Also, find a dipstick and get that hole closed off. Direct access to the rear end and hydro. Bad news especially with all the rust sitting there. I'd drain the hydro and flush it with new fluid and filter.

Nice Super Garden Tractor and a diesel to boot! Congrats. I wish you were closer, cause I'd be happy to help you out in person. I've got a couple diesels. A 1772 and a 782D.