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Monday, October 27, 2014

Soldered Wire Prong Bezels

On Saturday, I went up to Sue Sachs studio to take a bezel workshop. This wasn't just any bezel workshop, it was on setting stones that were unusually shaped. I asked specifically for this workshop because I have a large collection of cabochons and flatbacks that aren't round or oval.

Sue had a selection of samples laid out for us, including this massive wire prong bezel pendant. Right away I knew I was going to make a bezel using this technique.

I brought my entire collection of crystal and fossil cabochons with me but ultimately decided I would set this pretty quartz piece. I also used the sterling silver wire I already had on hand, which included 16 gauge and 20 gauge (I would not use 20 gauge in the future though as it would need to be work-hardened to be secure). I do plan to add 18 and 14 gauge to my supplies in the near future.

The first step was to create a base that I would then attach all the prongs to. I used the 16 gauge wire for this. Once the ends were filed, I soldered the wire together.

I then cut several lengths of 20 gauge wire and created balled headpins to use as the prongs.

I eyeballed the length of the headpins and cut them down in size and soldered the first two onto the base.

Then the final two prongs were measured and soldered on.

I noticed along the way I must have goofed and I had to flip the base around. Oops. But it was still going to work!

I went with a simple arch for the bail. I also realized at this point that the bezel looked kind of like a baby reaching out to be held. Hehe.

I gave the bezel a Liver of sulfur bath and then I slid the quartz in and folded the prongs over.

This was an easy and fun way to set a stone! Colin is going to finish getting my torch set up in the workshop so that I can begin making these at home.

Cool design idea, but I would solder another ring to connect the prongs all together. If I can take the stone out of a setting with my hands, I don't consider it done. Depending on the stone it could be double-sided too!