I am new to this site and lookinf for other peoples experiences with building 383 strokers. I am in the process of building a 383 for my son's truck.

He has a 1984 silverado 4wd that is in excellent condition except it has a weezy 305 in it.

I purchased a 350 complete from a junk yard.
I ordered a complete 383 rotating assembly from scat. Should be close to 9.6/1 compression ratio when completed.
The block is going to be .040 over. (not exactly a 383 now)

The heads are .194/160 but I am having the machine shop hog them out for .202 intake valves. Looking for high port velocity for low end torque.

I have an Edlebrock performer intake, performer 650 carb, 1 5/8 tube headers with new magnaflow exhaust, 2 1/4 out the back, MSD streetfire ignition,,, basicly the same stuff we see all over the place.

I have not ordered a cam yet. I hear that I need a small base circle cam and I hear I dont because of the ARP ROD bolts are designed for this app and no need.

I will clearence the block in my shop when I get the block back as needed. (this is one of the reasons I went to the external balance, the other is windage and I needed a new balancer and flex plate, the kit comes complete.

This build will get roller rockers.

Any suggestions on cam. Looking for a truck motor with power low in the RPM range.

Hello,
I'm new to this forum, but not to the 383 strioker.
I build a.040 over 385 a few years ago. I built something that sounds nearly what you are doing. I had the shop put 202's in my heads also. I'm not sure if it made a difference or not. If I were doing it again I may save the money,and put it in the cam. I used a Competition Cams Extreme Energy 262 cam. Great torque. I don't think they offer that exact number today. I believe they make a can for 4x4's these days. Have fun... Bob

My 69 pickup once had a 383 with Dart Iron Eagle heads (2.02/1.60), 9.3:1 compression, and an old skool Crane Energizer 266 cam at 266/266, 210/210, .440", .440". Manifold was a low rise Edelbrock 2101, although today I'd use a more modern Weiand Street Warrior. Carb was a 600 CFM Edelbrock. Even with a 3.08 axle, that thing would just shred the tires! Torque was just insane from right off idle, and the engine would rev to almost 5000, although HP probably peaked at 4500. Almost forgot -- I used a Hughes 2000 stall converter on the TH-350 trans. Not sure I'd do that today, because it slipped 100-150 RPM more than stock at 60 MPH. And since the long stroke of a 383 will raise the actual stall speed of a stock converter, that's probably all you need with a small cam like I used.

By the way, SCAT makes an I-beam rod with 7/16" cap screws (not bolt/nut) that will clear a lot of cams. Best way to check is with a flashlight and .060" feeler gauge. And you can't just check one cylinder, although I think there are only 2 (or 4?) that have the potential for trouble. Wish I could remember the numbers!

Also, be sure to search this site and others for how-to articles on relieving the block.

I have about 2500 in it now and its ready to drop in. I read a lot of posts talking about clearence problems. I just simply had none except for a little work at the bottom of the cylinders. Really an easy build. It will be fun getting this running and tuning it.

since you mocked it up with a comp 270H cam i would say just use that cam. IMHO they are a pretty decent cam for a mild build where you may want a tiny bit of that lope from a larger cam. it wont be too much. i would strongly suggest changing out those 3.08:1 gears though, since this is a 4x4 i would guess that you and your son are looking at tires in the 33x12.5" range and right of hand i'm not sure if they were still using the th350 in 84' for the 1500 trucks or if they had already switched over to the 700R4. honestly either way a set of 4.10's is almost nescessary

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