I have the 50D. I was kicking my self when I saw the 60D. I like the rear adjustable screen. Reading this it makes me good about my 50D .

hahaha its all gimmicks with the 60D IMO I use my live view finder only to make sure my color temperatures are correct but other than that, primarily being a photographer, I see no other reason for an articulating screen. I guess its a feature most would use for videography, but still photography ehh I think its useless.

hahaha its all gimmicks with the 60D IMO I use my live view finder only to make sure my color temperatures are correct but other than that, primarily being a photographer, I see no other reason for an articulating screen. I guess its a feature most would use for videography, but still photography ehh I think its useless.

I dont agree But I guess it depends on what use you make out of it.

I have a tilting screen on my NikonD5000 and would love to have it on my other cameras as well. For macro shots when the angle is ackward (i.e. down low or), its not easy to focus with the eye in the viewfinder. Since Macro always require a little manual adjustment to get tack sharp focus, its a must.

Again, I would have liked to have it again when doing moon shots since the lens is pointing up and sometimes to get my viewfinder at eye leve, I have to raise the center column of my tripod, which reduce the tripod's stability and create some vibration.

Pretty much this. An articulating screen is great if you're shooting from odd positions and/or angles. With one, you're not relegated to using only the standard viewfinder or angle adapter. The articulating screen provides more freedom in that respect. They're come in handy from time to time on my advanced point-and-shoots. That said, not everyone shoots in such manners. For those that don't, there is no need for one.

The 24-105 is a great walk-around lens. It's very sharp, has awesome IS, and covers most FL needs. It basically lived on my camera during our recent UK trip. I swapped out to other lenses only for specific shots, then back to the 24-105.

It's amazing how much better my 50D is with this lens mounted on it. I have only had it for a few days, so still getting used to it.

Great lens, great car.

Did you use Digital Lens Optimizer software to square up that picture? At 28mm I would have expected more geometric distortion on the garage's straight lines and the paving at the edges of the frame. That's incredibly good if it's straight out of the camera.

The 24-105mm is my main lens on my 5D MkIII, but I use DxO Optics Pro to correct for geometric errors, CA, vignetting, etc. DPP has DLO built into it and you can add it into Lightroom. It looks to me like you've already discovered DLO, but, if not, check it out.

Did you use Digital Lens Optimizer software to square up that picture? At 28mm I would have expected more geometric distortion on the garage's straight lines and the paving at the edges of the frame. That's incredibly good if it's straight out of the camera.

The 24-105mm is my main lens on my 5D MkIII, but I use DxO Optics Pro to correct for geometric errors, CA, vignetting, etc. DPP has DLO built into it and you can add it into Lightroom. It looks to me like you've already discovered DLO, but, if not, check it out.

I have not heard of (or used) DLO but it seems worth checking out. The image was not straight out of the camera as I cropped it. This is what it looked like straight out of the camera (just resized it):

I have not heard of (or used) DLO but it seems worth checking out. The image was not straight out of the camera as I cropped it. This is what it looked like straight out of the camera (just resized it):

Ok, that's still pretty good. Cropping does help. The upper right corner is a bit soft, but there's nothing to see at the upper left and the pavement patterns are irregular, so it's hard to see distortion.

Yes, do try one of the DLO programs with that lens. I think you'll be impressed. Of course, DPP has DLO and shipped with your camera. You may need to update to the latest version after installing DPP on your computer.

DPP is very good software, but clunky to use. I use DxO Optics Pro 7.5 because it's intuitive, fast and high performing. (You can test it with a free 30-day trial). Lightroom also has a DLO function.

Did you use Digital Lens Optimizer software to square up that picture? At 28mm I would have expected more geometric distortion on the garage's straight lines and the paving at the edges of the frame. That's incredibly good if it's straight out of the camera.

The 24-105mm is my main lens on my 5D MkIII, but I use DxO Optics Pro to correct for geometric errors, CA, vignetting, etc. DPP has DLO built into it and you can add it into Lightroom. It looks to me like you've already discovered DLO, but, if not, check it out.

There is definitely going to be more pull on your FF body than in the 50D, the lines in the garage aren't PERFECTLY straight but its its all good for this purpose

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximusJ

I dont agree But I guess it depends on what use you make out of it.

I have a tilting screen on my NikonD5000 and would love to have it on my other cameras as well. For macro shots when the angle is ackward (i.e. down low or), its not easy to focus with the eye in the viewfinder. Since Macro always require a little manual adjustment to get tack sharp focus, its a must.

Again, I would have liked to have it again when doing moon shots since the lens is pointing up and sometimes to get my viewfinder at eye leve, I have to raise the center column of my tripod, which reduce the tripod's stability and create some vibration.

So yes, Sometimes I would really love to have it on my D800.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bosstones

Pretty much this. An articulating screen is great if you're shooting from odd positions and/or angles. With one, you're not relegated to using only the standard viewfinder or angle adapter. The articulating screen provides more freedom in that respect. They're come in handy from time to time on my advanced point-and-shoots. That said, not everyone shoots in such manners. For those that don't, there is no need for one.

hahah but that's all part of the grind! sometimes you gotta just put the extra effort in for the picture to just add some extra character into your images. Not everyone will know but you will

It's amazing how much better my 50D is with this lens mounted on it. I have only had it for a few days, so still getting used to it.

Congratulations OP on your new lenses; I hope your enjoying it. I too am thinking about getting the Canon 24-105mm f/4 L. I was wondering if you could let me know how the lenses deals with bokeh because I am very curious. I've heard some people say the bokeh isn't great, so I would love to hear your input.

Congratulations OP on your new lenses; I hope your enjoying it. I too am thinking about getting the Canon 24-105mm f/4 L. I was wondering if you could let me know how the lenses deals with bokeh because I am very curious. I've heard some people say the bokeh isn't great, so I would love to hear your input.

Thanks in advance.

if you want better bokeh, go with the 24-70 F2.8L. i have a 24-105, but it is not fast enough for my tastes. it is the slowest lest i own besides my 500mm. of course if you are using it on a 1.6x crop camera, you have wasted the low focal length. i use mine predominately on a 5D2, so i get the full 24mm, but i also have a 16-35 F2.8L, so i prefer that.

It's amazing how much better my 50D is with this lens mounted on it. I have only had it for a few days, so still getting used to it.

avoid the harsh mid-day sun, use a circular polarizing filter to prevent the sky from being so blown out, or use photoshop to correct the blown out sky. a late afternoon shoot will really make that beauty pop.

if you want better bokeh, go with the 24-70 F2.8L. i have a 24-105, but it is not fast enough for my tastes. it is the slowest lest i own besides my 500mm. of course if you are using it on a 1.6x crop camera, you have wasted the low focal length. i use mine predominately on a 5D2, so i get the full 24mm, but i also have a 16-35 F2.8L, so i prefer that.

He cropped down from an even wider view, so no focal length was "wasted" but that reminds me, when using any lens, but particularly a zoom, crop the image fairly tight in the camera so that you maximize the pixels on the subject. This maximizes the print size that you can make.

IMHO, the 24-105mm is plenty fast enough for the 5D MkII or MkIII. I use it for night shooting regularly and the results are fantastic. The IS comes in very handy at slow shutter speeds.

I'm thinking of the 16-35mm for myself. Do you shoot it much out past 24mm? My inclination lately, for scenics, is to shoot a multi-shot panorama when my 24mm isn't wide enough. I guess that I could use the 16mm for interior shots, but that has me leaning toward the 8-15mm.

I've had almost every canon lens. The 24-105 is a great, lightweight lens, excellent on FF body. But I'm addicted to primes. So I only break out the 24-105 for vacations. That IS is fantastic while sitting on the top of a tour bus, while cruising around a new city.

I used to use the 16-35 for car events. 24-105 for whatever. Recently I've shot a ton of portrait sessions. 135L at first. Then 50L. Now 85L. After a few years, I now have my dream lineup, holy trinity of primes 35L 85L 135L, and the two aforementioned zooms.

35L is amazing for low light, hell, NO light.... Handheld too.

Since using the primes, my creativity, IQ, and bokeh have improved a good bit. So much that I haven't used the 16-35 much at all.