THE reader may perhaps desire to know under what
circumstances the following Letters were written, and
how it came to pass that an Englishwoman should
find her way into countries so remote and so uninviting
to those attached merely to the luxuries of life, as
Siberia and Tartary.

Being one of a large family, it became my duty,
at an early period of life, to seek support by my
own exertions. I accordingly betook myself to St.
Petersburg, where for eight years I remained in the
family of General Mouravioff, superintending the education of his only daughter. In 1846 I became acquainted with Mr. Atkinson, then about to proceed on
his travels into Siberia; and on his return, after the
lapse of a year, I was married to him, with the consent of
General Mouravioff's family, and from the house of the
Governor of Moscow a relation of the General's, and
I accompanied him during his arduous journeys, which
lasted for six years.

The scientific and artistic results of those travels are
contained in the two volumes which he published during
his lifetime: but there is little allusion in them to
the adventures we encountered during those journeys,
and, especially, there is no mention of the strange
incidents which befell myself, often left alone with
an infant in arms, among a semi-savage people, to
whom I was a perfect stranger. My friends have so
often importuned me to give them some account of
what happened to me in countries where an English
lady had never been seen before, and to describe the
manners which characterise female society among the
wild Kirghis, that I have bethought me to collect
some of the letters written on the spot to friends;
and these, with slight omissions and alterations, I now
venture to present to the public.

Starting for Siberia
– Messages for the Exiles
– Packing the Sledge
– The Exiles' Gate of Moscow
– Our first Stage
– Our Courier is drunk, as are all the Postboys
– Drive through a Russian Forest
– Arrive at Nijni Novgorod
– Hospitality of the Governor
– The Volga
– A Drive on the Ice
– Kasan
– Roadside bargaining
– Beautiful Scenery
– Terrors of the Road
– Arrive at Ekaterinburg

Ekaterinburg
– Dangers of the Road
– A Russian Murder
– Caution enjoined upon us
– Jasper Works at Ekaterinburg
– Visit to a Circassian Lady
– Resume our Journey
– Meeting with the Exiles
– Mouravioff
– The political Exiles of 1825
– Anecdotes of their Mode of Life
– Their Treatment by the Siberians
– On the Road again
– Arrive at Omsk
– Churlish Police-Master
– Wretched Quarters
– Dinner at the Governor's
– Arrival at Kaiansk
– The lost Dog found
– An Escape from Robbers
– Bad Roads
– Arrive at Tomsk
– A strange Couple
– Enforced Delay
– The Gold Seekers of Tomsk
– The Heiress
– English Residents in Tomsk
– Balls and Dinner Parties
– The Archbishop and his Hostess

Resume our Journey
– Beautiful Flowers
– The Banks of the Ob
– A stormy Night
– Whistling for a Wind
– Arrive at Barnaoul
– Domestic Life in Barnaoul
– Dinner with the Director of Mines
– Pleasant Society
– Picnics
– Tale of a Head-dress
– Opposition to any further Progress

The Silver Mines of Solaier
– Tomsk
– Krasnoiarsk
– Travelling Peraclodnoï, a Mode of Transit to be avoided
– Arrival at Atchinsk
– Kindness of the Police-master
– Visits to Exiles
– Mr. Fahlenberg and his History
– The Cossack's Return to his Home
– The Abakan River
– Enormous Snake
– Return to Minousinsk
– A Plague of Flies
– Voyage on the Yenissey
– Beauties of the River Scenery

Society in Irkoutsk
– The Volkonskoi Family
– Artists in Exile
– The Princess and the sleepy Englishman
– A Russian's Opinion of the English Aristocracy
– Saintly Pugilism
– The Domavoi, or House Spirit
– Earthquake

Abrupt Departure from Irkoutsk
– Mineral Baths
– Again en route for the Mountains
– The White and Black Irkout
– Visit a Gold Priesk
– Lead Mine
– A Rainbow as seen from a Mountain
– Exploration of the Valley of Djemalouk
– Extraordinary Aspects of the Scene
– Crater in the Valley of Khi-yol
– Rapid Rising of the Waters
– Unsafe Camping Ground
– Kind Reception at a Bouriat Aoul
– Difficulties of Mountain Travel
– Valley of the Oka
– Monko-seran-xardick
– Lamist Temple
– Voyage on the Baikal
– Clearness of the Water
– Visited by a Robber
– A salt Zavod
– Servants with Characters
– A wholesale Murderer

A Birthday Ball
– Singular Wedding Custom
– Excitement amongst the Exiles
– Anticipated general Pardon
– An Escape and Recapture
– The poor German Exile and his Wife
– Attempted Reform in Dress, and Check on Habits of Intemperance
– A drunken Dignitary of the Church
– Projected Visit to Kiachta

Journey to Kiachta
– The Baikal
– A Chinese Dinner
– Shopping at Maimatchin
– Method of Making Tea
– Resemblance of the Russians and Chinese in some National Customs
– A Day at Selenginsk
– Preparations to receive an English Visitor
– The Theatre
– The Gold-seekers and the Peasantry
– Bribery and Peculation
– Sleeping on Horseback
– The little Traveller in the Snow
– The Mayor and his Hospitality

Starting for Siberia
– Messages for the Exiles
– Packing the Sledge
– The Exiles' Gate of Moscow
– Our first Stage
– Our Courier is drunk, as are all the Postboys
– Drive through a Russian Forest
– Arrive at Nijni Novgorod
– Hospitality of the Governor
– The Volga
– A Drive on the Ice
– Kasan
– Roadside bargaining
– Beautiful Scenery
– Terrors of the Road
– Arrive at Ekaterinburg.

Ekaterinburg, March 7th, 1848.

MY DEAR FRIEND,
– As I am now going to plunge
into the wilds of Siberia, I shall proceed to fulfil
my promise, and give you a faithful account of every
matter likely to interest you which may befall me in
this land of ice and snow.

Moscow and all it contains are so well known to both
of us, that I shall not weary you by recalling scenes,
which we have so often visited together. I must not,
however, neglect mentioning the kindness of our friends
the Capnists, who did everything to render my short
stay agreeable. My first letter told you all about my
marriage; and now I must give you an idea of the
preparations for this long journey to Siberia.

As the middle of February is past, everything has
to be hastened, that we may be on the road before the
winter begins to break up; and this keeps me in such
a whirl of excitement, that I have little time to spare
for jotting down even these few lines before our departure. There is another great drawback to our progress: everybody is enjoying the Maslinitz;1 even Mr.
Atkinson's man Nicholai cannot be found, and the
yemschicks2 have made such frequent applications to
the vodky,3 that there seems little chance of their
driving. All these circumstances tend to make us
anxious about our progress eastward.

On the morning of the 20th we were alarmed by a
rapid thaw, which soon flooded the streets of Moscow,
and exposed the bare pavement to view, rendering
sledging difficult. However, by great perseverance,
all the things necessary for our journey were collected
before midnight on the 21st, and, notwithstanding that
many of our friends urged the absolute necessity of
deferring our departure for some days, Mr. Atkinson
decided we should start on the morrow at all risks.

During my short stay in Moscow, it became known
to the families of many exiles that I was going to visit
regions where their husbands, fathers, and brothers had
spent more than twenty years of their lives. Each member of these families had something to communicate
–
a wife, who had stood at the gate of Moscow with an
infant in her arms, to take the last look at the husband
and the father, as he was driven slowly past; young
children who were now men and women, who had been
horrified with the clanking of chains when receiving
the last embrace; then there were mothers who had
gazed with agony on their sons as they passed under the
great archway, and were lost to them for ever; sisters
who had received the last salute of those so dear, and
brothers who had met here and grasped each other's
hands, but were destined never to meet again: all these
had some message which they wished to be delivered.
Nor could I refuse them this pleasure, although it would,
I found, entail several deviations from our intended
route. Had it been possible to dine a dozen times in the
day, I think we should have been compelled to do so, as
each family was anxious that we should be their guests.

There was a melancholy interest in these gatherings
which few can appreciate; it was only by a knowledge
of the circumstances which had sent their friends into
exile, and the difficulty of making any confidential
communication to those so dear to them, that I could
understand their anxious desire to detain us; nor shall I
ever forget the parting and the blessing which they bestowed upon us. It was far into the small hours of Sunday, when we retired to rest for the last time in Moscow.

On Sunday morning we were up ere day dawned, and
busy with our preparations, hoping to have all packed
before any friend arrived to bid us farewell. It had
been arranged that we should take an early dinner, and then start. Immediately after breakfast Mr.
Atkinson, Nicholai, and some others, began packing our
baggage into the sledge. When starting on a long journey, this is a matter of no small importance, and I was
told that everything depended on the arrangement for
our comfort during a journey of twelve days and nights;
but as this was being done by one who had acquired practical experience, I had no fear of the results. Package
after package was stowed in its place without difficulty;
and then the whole was covered with two large bearskins, giving a most comfortable and inviting appearance to our vehicle, in which we were going to take a
journey of nearly 5,000 miles,

I looked at the sledge with no little interest, as it was
to carry me among scenes that the General and I had
often spoken about, when none of us dreamed that
my wish to visit them could ever be realised. How
often we have talked about those in exile whom I shall
now visit, carrying many a token to prove that even
after so long an absence they have not been forgotten!

Although dinner had been ordered at two o'clock,
we had a succession of visitors till long past that hour,
nor could we deny them access. At length the horses
arrived; this warned them of our speedy departure, and
the necessity of leaving us in quiet to our repast. It
was not a long one, and at half-past three o'clock
we were seated in our sledge, the word was given,
and the yemschick drove off. The day had been mild
and sunny, and the snow melted fast, which caused
Mr. Atkinson no little apprehension as to the state of
the roads. The horses were soon in a gallop, dashing
up the snow and slush in showers. In some parts we
were really brought to a stand on the bare stones, and
at five o'clock the sentinel stopped us at the gate of
Moscow, an officer demanded our passports, which were
shortly returned, and the bar was ordered to be raised.
As we passed through, I seemed to be bidding farewell
to the world; I thought of the many exiles who had
crossed this barrier; and it was a relief when we had
passed beyond the great archway.

Amongst the prisoners who are marched through this
portal on their way to Siberia, some are steeped in the
deepest crimes, others are convicted of minor offences,
and hundreds have passed this spot whose only crime
was resisting the cruel treatment of their brutal masters.

Shortly after leaving the gate, a turn brought us
on a line of straight road, the yemschick put his
horses into a gallop, and away we went; he announced that it was freezing
– to us most welcome news.
The speed of the horses and the tinkling of the bells
recalled my thoughts from the distressing events on
which they had been dwelling, and reminded me of the
journey before us. It was a fine night, and star after
star appeared in the firmament, till it was spotted over
with its twinkling wonders; watching these as they
ascended, and then peering into the deep gloom which
began to shroud all objects from our view, caused my
thoughts to wander back to you, and those from whom
each hour was taking me further away. A feeling of
sadness crept over me, from which I was aroused by
the driver pulling up at the post station.

All was darkness in the building
– not a person was
visible, it appeared deserted. Mr. Atkinson desired
Nicholai to rouse up the people and hasten the horses;
the man soon unharnessed those which had brought us,
and then he vanished in the darkness, and we were
left alone. A considerable time elapsed, and no one
appeared. I then suggested that it was better to call
for Nicholai; this Mr. Atkinson did, but there was no
response. He then concluded to leave me in the sledge,
and enter the house; he groped his way in the darkness, through two rooms, without finding a soul; in a
third he trod on a body, and nearly tumbled over others,
but they did not utter a word; a candle was flickering
in a corridor beyond; having obtained this, he discovered that he had passed through a room in which
six people were lying in a state of drunken insensibility,
from whom he could not get an answer; proceeding
further, others were found in a like condition. Here he
discovered Nicholai fast asleep on a bench, with our road
papers and the bag of money lying on the floor; he
also was drunk, and had forgotten both us and the
horses.

After a weary delay the smatrical, or officer in charge
of the post-house, was found. When he saw the seal and
signature of the Postmaster General, his faculties began
to clear, and by the aid of a whip he soon brought
some of the people to their senses. Lights were obtained, and the men were seen staggering to and fro
in search of horses. Nicholai received a good shaking,
and was deprived of both papers and money, which are
henceforth to be my care, so I am now installed in my
new office of 'minister of finance.' This seemed to
sober him a little; but our prospects were not cheering.
as the officer said we should find the people drunk at
every station.

At last four horses were harnessed to the sledge, and
a yemschick mounted to his seat, when the postmaster
gave him strict orders to drive fast. The man gave a
wild shriek, flourished his whip, and the horses started
at full speed.

Shortly after leaving the station, the yemschick
was obliged to turn into the forest, as it was impossible
to run the sledge on the bare road. Even among the
trees the snow was found only in patches, but the frost
on the grass enabled us to make progress. There was
something to me novel and wild in this ride through a
Russian forest, where the lofty pines cast a deep shade
of darkness over the scenes, and one is apt to imagine
that wolves and bears are lurking in readiness to seize
on the traveller; but no growl or other sound was heard
in these solitudes, save the whoop of the driver and the
tinkling of the bells attached to the horses, and these
occasionally seemed to be responded to by many an
echo. It was with intense interest that I watched every
step of our road. Morning found us at Petooshka, a
station about 112 versts from Moscow; we had hoped
to reach Vladimir, but the continued delays during the
night prevented our accomplishing our purpose. I
hailed the first dawn of day with delight, having slept
but little during this my first night on the great Siberian road; and, not having broken my fast since leaving
Moscow, I was desirous of procuring some refreshment.
At first, it appeared doubtful whether a somervar4 could
be obtained. With pleasure I observed the hissing urn
brought on to the table; our basket of provisions was
produced, and the eatables displayed to view. Our
meal was quickly despatched, and we were soon again
on the road. Much snow had fallen during the night;
and the weather now became intensely cold, which
made travelling better.

On arriving at the ancient town of Nijni Novogorod,
I was pleased to find that we should pass the night there,
as I had a great desire to see this place. We drove to
an hotel in the lower town, dirty in the extreme, and
were taken into a small room. I was horrified at finding that everything must be taken out of the sledge.
I asked whether it would not be better to proceed at
once. Such could not be, Mr. Atkinson having promised to call on Prince Ourousoff, the governor of the
town. After partaking of some refreshment, I gladly
spread the bear-skins, and stretched my limbs, which
felt a little stiff.

In the morning we were up with the sun, when
Nicholai made his appearance, and informed us, with a
melancholy face, that an officer from Irkoutsk had
arrived during the night, who gave a most unfavourable
account of the state of the roads; even the ice on the
Volga was not considered safe for travelling on. Orders
were given to have everything placed in the sledge,
and all to be in readiness for our departure.

Whilst I completed my packing, Mr. Atkinson
went to pay his respects to the governor, and to make
my excuses for not calling on the princess, but they
would not hear of our leaving the town without dining
with them, stating how much better it would be to travel
by night, when the roads would be harder. Having
consented, we had time to stroll leisurely through the
town, which, I am told, presents a busy aspect during
the fair, which usually takes place at the end of June
or the beginning of July. The fair itself is held on
the left bank of the Oka, and is reached by crossing a
bridge. The upper town of Nijni contains the principal buildings, and like all Russian towns has a pretty
and even imposing effect, with its churches, and their
star-bespangled domes. The surrounding country must
look beautiful in summer. I would gladly have seen
more of the place, but four o'clock was the dinner-hour,
and we must be punctual. We were received most
kindly and hospitably by the family, and were welcomed
like old acquaintances. They all felt surprised to think
I had the courage to undertake such a journey as we contemplate, and even doubted whether I possessed strength
enough to accomplish it. They wished to detain us a
few days, so that we might see and be able to judge of
the many places of interest in the town. There were the
convents or government schools for the daughters of the
nobility, the churches, also the manufactories of glass;
but the roads would not allow us to delay our journey,
Mr. Atkinson being most anxious to reach Barnaoul ere
the winter roads were entirely broken up. About six
o'clock we took leave of our amiable host and hostess,
and returned to our own rooms, where we intended
taking tea, and then starting onward.

It was ten o'clock when we left Nijni Novogorod. Our
way now was on the ice along the Volga. My heart
beat rapidly as we descended its banks, it having been
stated that we should find, in parts, even large holes. A
sharp breeze was blowing, everything looked dark and
gloomy, I almost wished we had started by daylight;
covering myself up, I slept soundly till near the first
station, when I was aroused by the sudden stoppage of
the sledge, and a confused sound of voices. On enquiry
I learned that in front of us was a sledge, which men
were endeavouring with poles to lift out of a hole in the
ice, into which it had slipped. I felt grateful that the
possessor of it had reached the spot before us, as our
sledge being more heavily laden would most certainly
have sunk in entirely. On the following day the weather
was bitterly cold, and the wind keen and cutting, so that
on arriving at Kasan I found my face and lips in a fearful state. I am told that throwing a piece of white
muslin quite over the head will entirely prevent the
frost from injuring the skin. The Russians exercise
an effectual but excessively dirty mode of protecting
it, which is, never to wash the face, from the hour of
starting on a journey, until their arrival in some town
where they intend staying.

The state of my face gave me much annoyance, and
was very painful. We were invited to dine at the house
of one of the professors of the University of Kasan. He
was a Persian, who had been obliged to flee his
country on account of having been converted to Christianity by one of our missionaries. I found both himself
and his wife most amiable.

After dinner our host took the trouble to read to me
the Lord's prayer in Persian, so that I might hear the
language, which sounded soft and pretty.

On the following day, Sunday, we went to the
governor's, Prince Baratinsky, and there met a brilliant
party; in the evening we attended a concert, to which
we had been invited by the princess.

After leaving Kasan, the roads were again very bad.
I kept watch till after the first station (we generally
took it in turns), when I fell asleep. We were about to
ascend a hill nearly bare of snow. I concluded there
would be some difficulty, but I had no idea of what it
turned out to be. Just as day broke I awoke, and discovered we were exactly in the same place we were at
on my going to sleep, just one verst from the station;
the yemschick had been whirling round and round
the whole night in vain efforts to ascend this hill. I
aroused Mr. Atkinson to tell him what was going on,
and Nicholai was quickly despatched back to the post-house for fresh horses and assistance; but, ere he returned, our driver, aided by the light of the morning,
had succeeded in gaining the summit; he then took us at
a gallop to the station. Nicholai and the horses arrived
in a couple of hours, just as we had breakfasted and
were prepared to start again.

At this place we found an officer and his companion,
a civilian, at breakfast. Vodky was evidently more in
request at their morning's meal than tea; its effects were
visible. Little civilities passed between us, then a conversation sprang up. A Russian, without the slightest
intention of being rude, often asks whence you come,
where you are going, and your business, and some, even,
what your resources are; and just as freely they give a
sketch of themselves.

Having furnished our new acquaintance with as many
particulars as we chose to give, the officer, who had a
most cadaverous-looking face, as though he was in the
last stage of consumption, informed us, in return, that he
had come from the Kirghis Steppe, where he had served
several years, was then on his way to Petersburg, and
thence to Odessa, to join his family, from whom he had
been separated for many years; pressed his address
upon us, saying how delighted he should be to entertain
us at his own home. He then told us in confidence that
he had some maps which he should feel delighted to
show us. His sledge was unpacked and the maps produced. He placed them on the table with most significant
nods and winks, stating they were not permitted to be
shown to any foreigner, but, out of the deep respect he
had suddenly conceived for us, he would allow us to
have a peep at them. (I had procured the same maps
nearly a year before in Petersburg for Mr. Atkinson.)
He then said, that if we felt any inclination to have them,
he would part with them for the modest sum of forty
roubles. We declined, saying they would be useless to
us; he then offered them for twenty; but no! Finding
there was nothing to be done with the maps, with an air
of disappointment, which he vainly tried to conceal, he
placed them on one side; when the little civilian, with
his sharp, foxey face, brought forth a pack of cards. Both
were anxious to induce my husband to play; their disgust was supreme when he told them he really did not
know one card from another, and declined playing.

Nicholai having breakfasted and all being ready, we
bade adieu to our new acquaintance, who, too well bred
to display their ill humour, with apparent warmth and
cordiality shook us by the hand and wished us success
in our onward course; but the invitation to Odessa was
not repeated.

At the post-house they had endeavoured to persuade
us to place our sledge on wheels, but to this arrangement we could not consent; the peasants said we should
find no snow on the sand-hills before us. We had six
horses harnessed, and with these the yemschick proposed to take us through the forest, where we should find
snow; but the distance was double.

Shortly after leaving the station we turned into a
wooded country, where we were soon threading our way
among the dark pines. To describe to you the beauty
of the scenes we passed through is impossible. Some
were perfectly lovely; indeed, had we been driving
through a nobleman's park, we should have exclaimed in
raptures, how beautiful! it required but the presence of
the deer to complete the illusion. I believe the nights
are almost more enchanting than the days, when the
pale moon is shining, and darting her soft rays down on
the ever-green pine trees. In the silence of these lovely
nights, as I lie back in the sledge watching every turn
of the road, I conjure up all kinds of fantastic images.

On one of these lovely nights, before reaching Perm,
I was rather struck by observing that Nicholai never
seemed to sleep; each time I awoke there he was, sitting
bolt upright
– he who had hitherto appeared to do
nothing else night or day but sleep. The following
morning he was as wakeful as the preceding evening.
When evening again came and I saw him still sitting,
I became rather alarmed, thinking the poor man was ill,
and mentioned the circumstance to Mr. Atkinson. The
affair was fully explained when, arriving at a station, he
came to me to say that the people at the post-house
wished us to remain the night, as there was a gang of
robbers on the road in a wood between the stations.
Rumours of them had been spread, and Nicholai, who
was a great coward, had feared to sleep, in case of a
surprise. Mr. Atkinson merely consented to be prepared for an attack by reloading his pistols, and seeing
that his gun was all right. Thus in readiness we started
forward, but saw no one; our own solitary sledge was
the only thing on the road.

We arrived in Ekaterinburg on March 6th. It was
midnight when we drove to the house of a gentleman
whose acquaintance my husband had previously made
in this town, and who had exacted a promise from him,
to make his house his home during the short stay we
intended making. Darkness reigned within the building,
the family having retired to rest some hours before. They
were soon aroused, and we were welcomed with all the
heartiness and cordiality of old friends
– the voice of
welcome in one's native tongue is so cheering to the
spirits of the traveller; we sat chatting, till the crowing
of the cock reminded us it was time to separate and to
seek rest
– so necessary after such a severe shaking as
we had received, for the roads, in parts, were bare of
snow.

No one can describe the luxury of a good bed to lie
upon, with clean sheets, but those who have been
deprived of these comforts for a couple of weeks, as we
had been.

The sun was high in the heavens ere I awoke on
the morning after our arrival. The family had been up
for hours, but they would not disturb me. On opening
my eyes, how smiling and happy everything looked! all
my little wants had been studied, even to clean linen,
which the lady had had placed ready for me, so that I
might defer opening my boxes until a more convenient
time.

Ekaterinburg
– Dangers of the Road
– A Russian Murder
– Caution enjoined upon us
– Jasper Works at Ekaterinburg
– Visit to a Circassian
Lady
– Resume our Journey
– Meeting with the Exiles
– Mouravioff
–
The political Exiles of 1825
– Anecdotes of their Mode of Life
– Their
Treatment by the Siberians
– On the Road again
– Arrive at Omsk
–
Churlish Police-Master
– Wretched Quarters
– Dinner at the Governor's
– Arrival at Kaiansk
– The lost Dog found
– An Escape from
Robbers
– Bad Roads
– Arrive at Tomsk
– A strange Couple
– Enforced Delay
– The Gold Seekers of Tomsk
– The Heiress
– English
Residents in Tomsk
– Balls and Dinner Parties
– The Archbishop and his Hostess.

Tomsk, April 25th, 1848.

AS we shall be obliged to pass some weeks in this
town, I shall have plenty of time for writing. I must
give you an account of our route hither, which was
really a fearful one; but first I will return to Ekaterinburg, and make you acquainted with what took
place there, I not having had time to do so before
leaving, as I had scarcely a moment to myself, although
we spent fifteen days in the town.

I was told by our kind hostess that it was considered a duty on the part of every visitor to make
the acquaintance of the principal persons in the town;
besides which, several were friends of my husband's;
so, what with visiting and receiving visitors, our time
passed away very quickly.

And then I had everything to re-pack, as we proposed leaving a box containing valuables in the care
of our friends in Ekaterinburg: these articles being
quite unnecessary to us on our journey, being, in fact,
gifts presented to me on the occasion of my marriage,
the loss of which would be indeed vexatious.

There were many stories rife in Ekaterinburg of
robberies and fearful murders committed on the unwary traveller. I cannot comprehend how it is that
all our friends, instead of trying to give me encouragement, seem, on the contrary, bent on disheartening me.
Each one has some horrible story to relate. This being
Lent, one gentleman was reminded of a circumstance
which took place some few years ago:
–

A father and son were travelling together on the
same route we intend taking: they stopped one night
at a peasant's cottage; it was late, and the inhabitants
tad retired to rest. Amongst this class of people the
top of the stove forms the sleeping apartment of as
many of the family as can be stowed away upon it.
The travellers were admitted to the only room the house
contained; and, having been many hours without food,
brought forth their provisions and commenced eating
their supper, which consisted of cold meat, &c. Their
supper ended, they lay down on one of the benches to
sleep, which was not long in overtaking the weary travellers. They had been but a short period in the land of
dreams, when one of the men on the stove slid gently
down, and, taking in his hand a hatchet (which every
peasant carries with him in his belt), with cautious steps
approached the sleepers, and, lifting the instrument with
both hands, brought it with such force down upon the
head of the poor father, that he literally cleft it in two;
he then turned to the son, who was in a sound sleep,
and despatched him likewise. The brutal murderer then
returned to his berth and slept till morning, when he
went and informed the nearest authorities of the two
murders he had committed. His object was not plunder,
he said, when asked his reason for committing so
horrible a deed; he described how he was sleeping, and
hearing these two men conversing, he was induced, from
what he heard, to watch their actions, and saw them
committing the awful sin of eating meat in Lent, how
it weighed upon his soul, how he turned away and
tried to sleep but could not, how he felt that for the
sake of Him who had died to save sinners, he ought to
prevent these men from sinning again; he had tried to
avoid commiting a crime, which he knew it was, but a
voice kept continually urging him on, and saying that
he was only putting an end to sin. My informer was
not able to say what had become of the man, but, to
prevent such a fate being ours, he presented Mr. Atkinson with a hatchet. I assured him he need not fear,
for nothing could induce me to sleep in these little
hovels, where the heat is almost unbearable; indeed, our
meals, which are only two in the day, are regulated by
the kind of station we stop at. We always give orders
that, as soon as day breaks, we breakfast at the first
cleanf station, and in the evening, that we take tea
(which is dinner also) before the cottagers retire for
the night, as I think you can scarcely form any conception of the unpleasantness of entering one of these
heated apartments, which has been closed for several
hours with a number of persons sleeping in it. There
are stations on the road where a separate room is kept
for travellers, and the further we advance into Siberia,
the cleaner they are, the floors so white that one might
almost eat off them; we invariably find the peasants
dirtier and poorer the nearer they are to large towns.

I presume one reason for my friend impressing the
necessity of caution on us was, that we had discharged
Nicholai, on account of neglect of duty, and gross
misconduct in many ways. The fellow was not to be
trusted, and Mr. Atkinson had always treated him with
great leniency. I had been rather amused at some
of his doings in Moscow. Whilst there, he received a
sum of money in advance, to enable him to fit himself out with everything necessary for a journey of two
years. At almost the last hour he asked for more,
which astonished Mr. Atkinson, as he had received in
advance a whole year's salary, and was therefore refused, until he said he wanted to buy something for
his 'old mother,'
– he might have known his master's
weak point
– Mr. Atkinson's heart relented immediately. On arriving in Ekaterinburg we found out that
he had brought in our sledge a large quantity of goods
on speculation, and was occupied in disposing of them,
the poor 'old mother' receiving not a single article of
all he had brought with him.

We visited the Granilnoï Fabric, where the stones
found in the Oural are all cut and polished (I received
specimens of many). I here saw men working at a
jasper table, on which several had been engaged nine
years; it was nearly completed, and was for the Empress.
A wreath of forget-me-nots, in mosaic, surrounded it;
it was certainly beautiful, but still did not appear worth
the time and labour that had been expended upon it.

We next visited the Mint, and observed the process
of coining the copper money. They coined a piece of
each kind for me, and placed them in a small box,
made purposely to contain them.

A description of the town Mr. Atkinson has already
sent you; and the amusements of the inhabitants I
hope I shall be able to tell you something about on our
return, as we intend passing some little time here on
our homeward journey. This being Lent, everyone is
quiet; there are only a few dinner-parties, and we have
been but to one, that was at General Glinka's.

I must tell you of a visit I paid to a Circassian lady,
the wife of a Russian. On entering the room I found
the lady sitting on a sofa with a table before it, as
is customary in every Russian house; she was engaged
with other visitors on our entrance. I approached and
was formally introduced by Mr. Atkinson, with whom
she was already acquainted; a seat was offered to me
near her. The other visitors shortly departed, when
we chatted on for nearly an hour. She was a delightful
woman, clever and very witty, also very beautiful, with
a large well-formed head, thick luxuriant hair, stout, but
not too stout for so tall a woman as she appeared to be.
When we rose to depart I again shook hands with her, and,
as she was an invalid, I begged her not to rise, as I saw
it was her intention to do; but she insisted, and actually
slid down from the sofa on which she was sitting, and
there before me stood a dwarf! As I looked down at
her, how I restrained my laughter is more than I can
tell; sitting, she appeared a very tall woman; but the
comical figure she presented when walking across the
room with me was ludicrous in the extreme. Whether
the husband, who was a very tall man, had been attracted
by her singular appearance or by her money (for she
was exceedingly rich) I cannot say. I presume my
countenance must have betrayed something of what
was passing through my mind, for the husband had a
peculiar smile and droll look as I bade him adieu.
Right glad did I feel when I was seated in my sledge,
where I could indulge in a hearty laugh.

Mr. Tate presented me with a rifle. I had already
a pair of pistols, which Mr. Atkinson bought for me
in Moscow, so now we have each evening rifle and
pistol practice, as it is advisable for me to be at least
able to defend myself in case of an attack being made
on our precious persons or effects whilst travelling
amongst the wild tribes we shall meet with on our
journey. I hope, however, I shall not be called upon
to use any of my weapons of defence.

Mrs. Tate had prepared provisions of all kinds for
us, as there was nothing to be procured on the road,
especially during the fast; at least, we are too dainty
just yet to eat the peasant's food; perhaps we shall not be
quite so fastidious some few months hence. Black bread
I have learned to eat, and, indeed, enjoy it amazingly;
this we can procure at any cottage, but white bread
we are obliged to carry with us, as also butter; so a
goodly stock was provided.

On the evening of Sunday, March 21st, at nine o'clock,
we bade adieu to our kind and hospitable friends, who
expressed great regret at parting with us. A little
snow had fallen on the preceding evening, which enabled us to proceed. After a night's travelling of great
difficulty, we reached Kaminskoi Zavod, where we received a most hearty welcome from Madame Gramertchikoff and her son, whose acquaintance I had made in
Ekaterinburg. They insisted on our passing some
hours with them; we consented the more readily, as I
found on the road, as I supposed, that we had forgotten
our supply of bread and butter, and Madame Gramertchikoff ordered more to be prepared; but the morning after leaving Kaminskoi Zavod, as I was occupied
tugging out the provisions, I came upon our old as well
as our new supply; we had a good laugh over the
affair, Mr. Atkinson declaring that it was a ruse on my
part to procure more. To say truth, we had none too
much, this constant travelling in the open air sharpens
the appetite.

On our road we passed the monastery of St. Dolomete.
It is a magnificent building, most picturesquely grouped
together, and in good preservation; it reminded me
greatly of the Kremlin at Moscow.

On the 25th we reached Jaloutroffsky, and drove to
the house of one of the exiles, for whom we had a gun.

On entering the dwelling, a gentleman in the prime
of life came forward to meet us; he appeared not a
little surprised at seeing strangers, Jaloutroffsky being
off the great post road. I enquired for Mouravioff; he
said he was the person I required. I told him I had
come from Petersburg, and gave him my maiden name;
I was instantly received with open arms; he then hurried us into his sitting-room, giving me scarcely time
to introduce my husband. I was divested of all my
wrappings, although we stated that our stay would be
short; he then seated me on a sofa, ran himself to fetch
pillows to prop against my back, placed a stool for my
feet; indeed, had I been an invalid, and one of the family,
I could not have been more cared for, or the welcome
more cordial. One of his comrades, whose family I was
likewise acquainted with, was immediately sent for, as
also the wife of one of the exiles, a peasant woman,
her husband was dead; many of these poor 'unfortunates' have married with the peasantry, or with the
daughters of the Cossacks. This woman came with her
two children; I was the bearer of many a message, as
well as little gifts for all. There was likewise a request
for her to part with her children, so that they might
receive proper education. She told me she would think
the matter over; we all urged her to consent, seeing it
was for their future well-being; she left us, promising
to do her best in bringing her mind to look upon the
separation as she ought to do. I am happy to say
that I have just heard she has allowed the children
(a boy and a girl) to go to their aunt's, in Ekaterinburg, with whom we are acquainted, and who will
receive them with great affection. Poor mother! at
the same time, I know the pang of parting with her
little treasures must have been great; but by the parting from them she has shown her great love.

When left alone with our new friends, the conversation naturally turned upon those whom they had not seen
for some three-and-twenty years; various and numerous
were the questions they put to us, and not the least interesting subject to them was our onward course. Mr.
Atkinson brought from the sledge a folio of sketches he
had with him of Siberian scenery. One gentleman said
he could not vouch for the accuracy or even likeness to
the places represented, never having visited those spots;
but what he could say was, that the skies were beautifully true to nature; they were truly Siberian; and
how often, he said, have I wished I could delineate
them, as in Petersburg they have no conception of what
a fine sky is.

Chatting thus, time sped on, and so we stayed dinner,
and tea also, and even then felt loth to depart. Our
host's wife was a Siberian, apparently a very good
woman, but no companion (intellectually speaking) for
her husband. Having no children of their own, they
had adopted a little girl, who was one night left at their
door; they were never able to trace the person who
had left it. This custom is quite common amongst the
Russians;: many of the first families in Petersburg do
the same thing; they rear and educate these foundlings,
and then bequeath to them their property, just as if they
were their own children.

There are several of the political exiles of 1825
living at Jaloutroffsky; they form quite a little colony,
dwelling in perfect harmony, the joys and sorrows of
one becoming those of the others; indeed, they are like
one family.

The freedom they enjoy is, to a certain extent, greater
than any they could have in Russia; for instance, full
liberty of speech; they fear nothing; the dread of exile
has no terrors for them. But what they have not, is
liberty to go where they please; they are restricted in
distance, as also in the use of fire-arms; however, the
authorities in the town are exceedingly lenient towards
them, permitting those who are fond of the chase
to hunt wherever and whenever they please. These
gentlemen, grateful for the indulgence given them,
never fail to return the same night.

Mouravioff was looked upon as one of the most
determined of the conspirators of 1825. His brother
Sèrge was hanged. His was a hard fate, for the rope
broke before life was extinct, and another had to be procured; in the meantime, consciousness returned, and he
became aware of what was going forward, when he mildly
said, 'it was very hard for a man to have to die twice.'
The one who was exiled was condemned to solitude on
reaching Siberia; he was separated from his comrades, and banished to the forests of Yakoutsk, where
he spent a wretched life; his food was of the coarsest
kind. The ground on which he had to lie was nothing
but a marsh; here he dwelt two years, having intercourse with no one. Every comfort was denied him,
even to books and writing materials.

Count Orloff, in one of his despatches to the officer of
justice who had him in charge, and who had received
strict injunctions that a rigid supervision should be kept
over the poor exile, demanded how he spent his time.
His reply was rather laconic, 'he sleeps – he walks – he thinks.' He was after this never interfered with,
till he joined his companions in exile.

He is a most perfect gentleman, but there is no
doubt that he has great determination of character;
and I should think, to look at him, years of exile have
not changed his indomitable spirit; there was nothing
subdued in him.

We heard several anecdotes relating to these men on
their journey into exile; one was amusing. The officer
in command, after they had reached a certain distance
from the capital, relaxed in his treatment, and made
associates of them, inviting one or more to partake of
the meals prepared for himself. At one little place
where they stopped, the officer breakfasted with one of
his prisoners; he then stepped out of the room to see
that all was in preparation for departure, leaving his
companion seated on a bench at a table. The exile was
sitting reflecting on his position, when one of the
authorities of the village entered the room, the doors
of which were so low, that everyone had to bend the
body to be able to enter. This man came to say that
all was ready for starting. He bowed low on perceiving a gentleman sitting, whom he concluded to be the
officer. He then entered into conversation which naturally turned upon the scoundrels that were being
conveyed into exile, and (continued this man, looking
into his face,) 'there is no mistaking they are villains,
of the blackest dye; indeed, I should not like to be left
alone with any one of them, and, if I might presume to
offer a little advice, it would be to observe well their
movements, as they might slip their chains, and not only
murder you and all the escort, but spread themselves
over Siberia, where they would commit all kinds of
atrocities.' At this point of the conversation, the bell
rang to summon them all to depart, whereupon the
exile arose, but when the visitor heard the clanking of
the chains, the farce was complete. Mouravioff told
us, he never saw a man look so aghast; when he saw
the object of his terror about to move forward, he made
a rush at the door, but, not having bent his head low
enough, he received such a blow that it sent him reeling
back into the room, and sprawling on the floor; but he
picked himself up quickly and bolted, and no more was
seen of him.

At one of the towns these poor fellows passed through,
the people wished to stone them; the officer and gens-d'armes had much ado to prevent the peasantry from
carrying their intentions into execution. In Siberia the
lower classes perfectly adore the Emperor; there is
scarcely a cottage without a portrait of one or the
other of the Imperial family.

At Jaloutroffsky they had not received the news of
the revolution in France
– it had only reached Moscow
on the day of our departure
– thus we were the first to
carry it; they were greatly excited, and many were the
speculations as to how it might end. It probably brought
to their minds scenes and events in which they had
acted a part years ago.

After delaying our departure till evening, we were at
last obliged, though reluctantly, to bid them farewell.
They gave us books to read on our way, including a gift
of three from Mouravioff, with simply Jaloutroffsky and
the date written in them, as a souvenir of our visit.
We made a promise that on our return we would pass
a day or two with them.

We now had good roads, and travelled on fast. I
here adopted a new method of procuring horses quickly:
and this was, that as we approached the stations, I used
to blow a horn, which had been given me by Mr. Tate,
in case of our getting separated in the mountains, so
that I might be able to let the party know where I was.
I used to blow this horn as we drove up at each station,
when out rushed all the people to know who it was; it
was capital fun, and gave great importance to our
arrival; indeed, they were so amused that we obtained
horses, without the slightest difficulty or delay.

As we travelled on, the roads varied; at times, the
snow was so deep, we stuck fast, and were obliged to
send to the villages for assistance. The country we
now passed over was neither pretty nor interesting to
us; it was one white waste, with a cold cutting wind;
but the last stage to Omsk, the roads were entirely
clear of snow. It was four o'clock P. M. of Saturday the
27th, when we reached the town; we drove to the house
of the Police-master, having a letter for him from a
young man, an acquaintance of his and ours, whom we
had met on the road.

A Cossack presented himself. On our asking for his
master, he said he was sleeping and could not be
disturbed
– at six we could see him, which was the hour
he usually awoke. Mr. Atkinson told him he could not
be kept waiting in the streets; that he must see him,
therefore he must be awoke. The poor fellow asked us
in, and went, apparently with great reluctance, to obey
the orders.

In about ten minutes the sleeper made his appearance, in a dirty greasy dressing-gown. He had a most
malicious countenance. With a shrill squeaking voice,
he demanded our business. Mr. Atkinson handed him
the letter from his friend. Having perused it, he flew
into a great passion, and demanded how we dared to
awaken him, and was turning upon his heel to walk
away, when Mr. Atkinson presented his official papers,
saying that perhaps those would command a little more
civility than his friend's letter had done. He took them,
and having read them, appeared a little annoyed; he
then called a Cossack, and gave him orders which we
did not overhear. He said the man would conduct us
to quarters.

We left him without his having recovered his equanimity of temper; the disturbing of his rest had been too
much for him; indeed, I think both parties were
mutually dissatisfied.

The Cossack now had us driven to the outskirts of
the town, to a most horrible place
– we had to pass
through a room on the floor of which men were lying
stretched out in all directions, some smoking, and
others talking at the utmost pitch of their voices; it
was not pleasant, and, moreover, the room we entered
was cold; however, we succeeded in getting a fire and
procuring something to satisfy our hunger
– our sledge
was unpacked, and we set about making ourselves as
comfortable as we could under the circumstances. It
was now near ten o'clock, so we were glad to spread the
bear-skins on which to stretch our cramped and bruised
limbs; for six nights I had not had my clothing off.

The following morning we were up early, Mr.
Atkinson being desirous to call upon Prince Gortchikoff
with his letters. He received us most politely, and
acceded to Mr. Atkinson's request for an escort to
travel in the Steppe.

He then enquired what kind of quarters had been
given to us. Mr. Atkinson informed him, and likewise
what had occurred. He was very angry, and despatched
a Cossack to the Police-master, with orders to have us
removed immediately into proper quarters. The prince
then invited Mr. Atkinson to dine with him, saying,
how sorry he was that he had no lady to receive me.

At one o'clock Mr. Atkinson went to the prince's,
where he met a large party, Sunday being the day
on which the officers dined with him. The prince introduced my husband to them all, and then enquired
how we liked our new quarters, and if we were comfortable; he was much annoyed when told that the Police-master had taken no notice of his request: he despatched
a Cossack with an imperative order: in an hour's time I
was comfortably lounging on a sofa in a general's quarters.

The following morning Mr. Atkinson had to go to
the prince for his papers. I went also to take leave of
him. He then said, that only his staff dined with him
that day, and, if I would excuse the presence of a lady,
he should much like me to dine with him. Having accepted the invitation, and all being arranged about our
road, we drove to Baron Silverhelm's, the head of the
topographical department. Both he and the baroness
strongly urged us to drive straight to their house on our
return, and remain some weeks, but I doubt if this will
be our way back; I hope it may, as now we can see
nothing of the town, the roads being literally impassable.
Altogether, Omsk had not a very prepossessing appearance whilst we were there.

At eight o'clock we left for Tomsk, Mr. Atkinson
being in great dread of the rivers breaking up before
our arrival. We had rough travelling, the country
was not interesting, some of the villages were prettily
situated and beautifully decorated. At Kaiansk my
husband hoped to find his dog, which had followed a
pack of wolves some distance when he passed this way
on his road to Moscow to fetch me; and, in his hurry to
go forward, he had not been able to wait for her return.
Orders were left with the post-master to have her taken
care of, the dog being a favourite. I had a kind of wish
that we might not find her, as I had been told she slept
in the sledge, and I had fully made up my mind that
no dog should sleep in a sledge with me.

On arriving at the village, Mr. Atkinson whistled,
the poor brute recognised his voice immediately, and
came bounding over the top of the low hut, disdaining
to walk through the gate. As I looked at her I thought
I never saw anything more beautiful; she was a steppe
dog, her coat was jet black, ears long and pendent, her
tail long and bushy; indeed, it was a princely animal;
the red collar round her neck contrasted so prettily
with her coat, and then to see the delight of the poor
beast as she leapt into the sledge; I do not know which
was happiest, dog or master. Having rewarded the
peasant we drove on, but the dog never once annoyed
me by entering the sledge; when tired with running,
she used to occupy Nicholai's place beside the driver.

One night, being much tired from the continued shaking and bumping on the bad roads, we had both fallen
into a sound sleep, when we were aroused by the low
growling of the dog. We started up on finding that the
sledge was perfectly still, and on looking out found that
two of the horses were gone, and we not near a post-station, there being only two or three huts surrounded
by a forest Mr. Atkinson jumped out, when he perceived
four men standing near the sledge but no driver; he called
out loudly for him, and, receiving no answer, demanded
horses of these men. The fellows were exceedingly insolent, and bade him go to the next station and get them.
There was no mistaking into what sort of hands we had
fallen. They now came forward and commenced unharnessing the remaining horses, but my husband told them
he would shoot the first man who attempted to take one
away: they paid no regard to his words. I then passed
him his pistols, the click of which, and his determined
look, evidently produced some effect, as they now desisted. After some talking amongst themselves, they
commenced moving off towards the forest; this my
husband would not permit. He said he would shoot the
first man who stirred; they declared they were going
for horses; he told them one man was sufficient for that,
and more he should not allow to go. There was again
much talking, Mr. Atkinson walking up and down beside the sledge, keeping sentinel, and Jatier (the dog)
walking by him, with tail erect, apparently by her continued barking not relishing the society she had got
into, or perhaps she was expecting a fracas such as is
common at a Kirghis Aoul.

At length, one of the men went off into the forest,
and in about ten minutes returned with two horses,
which he harnessed to the sledge, and then mounted
the box. Mr. Atkinson seated himself and away we
went, not a little delighted to get out of such a den of
thieves, as they doubtless were. You may rest assured
I slept no more that night. At the next station a complaint was made, but it was unmistakeable that no further notice would be taken of the matter; evidently, they
were all in a clique, and we had no time to stay and
make a declaration to the proper authorities, being
too anxious to proceed.

There is no doubt our yemschick had perceived
we were asleep, as the sledge was not closed on account of a feeling of suffocation, which always came
across me when it was, and that he took the opportunity of driving us into the forest, intending at the
least to rob, if not murder us. As we drove away
from this horrid place, we observed him peeping out
from behind the trees.

For some stations before reaching Tomsk we had no
snow at all; how we managed to drag on is a mystery.
At length, we got on to the Tom; this was a great assistance, but about three stations before reaching the town
we had to cross the river and ascend the bank; the
water was so deep on the ice that we feared everything
in the sledge would be spoiled; however, we passed
in safety, and about four o'clock of April 4th we
arrived here, right glad to do so, as you can form no
conception of what the roads are on the breaking up of
the winter; they remind one of the waves of the sea,
only there the boat rides over them with ease, whereas
here we rise on the top of the wave and then sink down
with a thump as if one's very life was being shaken out.
This does not happen merely now and then, but we have a
succession of them for versts and versts together; that
the sledge is not smashed to atoms is a wonder, and, as
for sleep, you may judge we had but little of that; it
requires a pretty strong constitution to endure for days
and days together such rough travelling as we have
here; we are told the poor couriers live but a few years.

We are for the moment comfortably established in
the house of the governor, but he and his family are
at Barnaoul. There are no inns here as in other
places, though there is one house where persons can
go and dine; a strange couple it is kept by. A
travelling caravan once passed through the towns of
Siberia, containing many wonderful things, amongst
the rest a German giantess and a dwarf Albino; these
two, weary of the life they were leading, agreed to
marry and settle down, she being an excellent cook, and
he a good hand at making port wine; the result was
the dining-rooms of Tomsk.

We shall be obliged to make a longer stay here than
we had the slightest intention of doing, it being impossible to travel either by winter or summer roads; indeed,
the post is stopped, there is no possibility of crossing
the rivers. We are not the only persons detained, for
Mr. Livashoff, whom we met, has arrived from Ekaterinburg, and cannot continue his route to Irkoutsk.
He got here in a worse plight than we did; he had been
induced to put his sledge on wheels, one of which came off
shortly before he reached the town, and he was dragged
in with the three; he was in such an awful condition, that
he was in bed two days to recover himself.

Since our arrival here, there has been a number of balls
and parties: we were just in time for the Easter festivities; it was the last week of the fast when we got into
Tomsk. First, I went and made the acquaintance of all
the notables of the town, they are principally gold seekers.
Mr. Astersghoff is one of the wealthiest, and possesses rich
mines in the Yenissey, which we shall visit; he showed
us some fine specimens of gold, weighing 25 lb. and 30 lb.
each. These miners have magnificent mansions, and live
in great state. We likewise visited the vice-governor, a
most amiable and gentlemanly man; he will not be
able to hold his office much longer, having married the
daughter of a gold-seeker. A government officer is not
allowed to work mines of his own, and as he now possesses them he must give up his post. He is just married;
his wife was the only daughter of a poor peasant, her
mother died whilst she was young; this child used to run
about the streets bare-legged until she was a good age.
When the rage for gold-seeking was so great, the old
peasant thought he would hazard his little savings
which he had collected for his daughter's dowry, so
started off one fine day; fortune rewarded his efforts,
for he found a mine, which proved to be very rich; he
now sent his daughter, of whom he was justly proud,
to a school, where she learned to read and write.

The poor fellow did not live long to enjoy the fruits
of his labours, he died two years ago, leaving his
daughter a rich heiress at the age of fifteen; her education is still being continued; her husband has provided
her with teachers, who come daily. A more graceful
or beautiful creature it has rarely been my lot to see.
She receives her visitors and sits at the head of her
table, as though she had been accustomed to her present
position from her birth, and yet so modest withal.

There are also two Englishmen here: one is practising
as a doctor, and many agreeable hours we have passed
in the society of him and his wife; but the other is an
exile, banished for forgery, which, from all accounts
that we can gather, he never committed, but bore the
blame for another, never supposing it would lead him
into exile; that other never came forward, but, it is
said, basely deserted his friend; he is now living a
most unexceptionable life, respected by all who know
him; he has a situation of great trust given to him.
The trial proved too great for his wife, who followed
him; she, poor woman, was a little deranged. I went
to see her, she had expressed a wish that I should do
so; for a while she sat and talked rationally enough.
In her look there was more of sadness than insanity.

The balls and dinner parties to which we went were,
with one exception, conducted in much the same way
as those we attended in Petersburg and Moscow.
Amongst the guests there was no mistaking the wives
of the wealthy miners. They were dressed with good
taste
– you will say, where is the Russian who does not
dress well?
– and wore a perfect blaze of diamonds.

The dinner party which differed from the others was
at the house of a rich merchant, as well as gold-seeker;
some forty persons were assembled. The archbishop,
the most important guest, sat at the head of the table,
it being customary, at a merchant's house in Siberia, for
the host and hostess to march up and down the room
to see that each guest is well supplied, especially with
champagne, which is drunk in large quantities. The
hostess was devoted to her distinguished visitor, and
took care that he was well plied with English porter as
well as wine, which he appeared to appreciate, if one
might judge from the quantity he imbibed, and there
was not the slightest difficulty in inducing him to do
so. Dinner went on smoothly enough till the sixth
course, fourteen was the complement, when the archbishop desired to rise, having already more than satisfied
himself that the dinner was in every way excellent. To
have seen the horror of the lady of the mansion would
have amused you. However, she succeeded in soothing
the worthy prelate, who sat down again and recommenced
eating and drinking, as though he had been deprived
of food for months. As for conversation, he was too
much occupied to spare time for that; he indulged
in a few coarse jokes, which, unfortunately, are everywhere tolerated in Russia.

Mr. Atkinson, who was seated on his left hand, made
many efforts to draw the clerical gentleman into conversation, but all in vain; he gave up the hopeless task, and
turned his attention to the gentleman who sat next
him. As you know, it is customary for the gentlemen
to sit on one side of the table, and the ladies opposite.

Two other courses had been served, when now the
archbishop thought that, if everyone was not satisfied,
they ought to be so. The quick, sharp glance of the
hostess had observed all; she was at his side in a
moment; his leaving the table was not to be thought
of, he must at any cost be made to sit still. The
dinner was but half over
– a dinner that had been days
preparing, and for which no expense had been spared;
his rising would be the signal for all the other guests
to do the same; he was coaxed and persuaded
like a spoiled child to sit still; but he would no
longer eat, only drink; he sat as sullen as if the rod
had been administered. The hostess whispered soft
soothing words into his ear, she scarcely ever left him.
He then gradually lay back in his easy chair, and
dropped off into a comfortable sleep. The brow
of our hostess cleared up, she was able to continue her
wanderings round the table. The descent of the sleepy
god appeared not only a relief to the hosts, but to the
whole party assembled; and, but for the noise of the
revellers, the sounds which issued from the head of the
table might not have been agreeable.

The dinner ended, all rose from table; two of the gentlemen approached the great dignitary of the Church,
and supported him out of the room. No one took the
slightest notice, nor spoke a word, and we saw no
more of him. Some days after, Mr. Atkinson received
an invitation from him; he also expressed a desire that
my husband would allow him to see some of his
pictures, and sent men to fetch them. The answer
was, that, if his reverence would call, he should be
happy to show him any drawings he had, but he never
carried them to anyone, excepting to the Imperial
family. The archbishop was, as you may judge,
mightily offended.

Resume our Journey
– Beautiful Flowers
– The Banks of the Ob
– A stormy Night
– Whistling for a Wind
– Arrive at Barnaoul
– Domestic life in Barnaoul
– Dinner with the Director of Mines
– Pleasant Society
– Picnics
– Tale of a Head-dress
– Opposition to any further Progress.

Barnaoul, June 19th, 1848.

IT is long since I took up my pen to address you. The
fact is, I have been ill; this rendered me incapable
of occupying myself in any way. I am glad to say my
indisposition
– which was, no doubt, a severe cold
– has
been frightened away by physic and leeches, or perhaps by the sight of the veiled Tatar lady, who came
to apply the latter; none but Tatars keep leeches
here. I should have preferred one of the good-natured
Russian peasants, with her rosy, chubby cheeks, to
have acted the part of doctoress, rather than the ugly
tawny-faced Tatar; but I had no choice in the matter.

I am not sorry we have quitted Tomsk: it is decidedly
not a pretty town, though there are things of interest
in it, and also some very kind, good people, who
endeavoured to render our stay as agreeable as
possible.

We left Tomsk on June 3rd, and a splendid morning
it was for our journey. The water in the Tom was still
high, but we crossed without difficulty, and then what
a lovely ride we had! The valley which we crossed
was one sheet of deep orange colour, from the vast
quantities of globe anemone growing there; and in
some parts we came upon large patches of pale blue
forget-me-nots, contrasting beautifully with the orange,
and then the numerous shrubs, the blossoms of which
gave forth perfumes which quite scented the air; it was
a scene of loveliness such as I had never beheld. On
reaching the woods, we came upon deep blue iris, and
many other flowers; I frequently delayed our progress
by getting out of the carriage to gather the sweet, wild,
fresh flowers
– it was such a delightful change after
the wearisome balls and dinner parties we had been
frequenting. I would have lingered for days, had it
been possible. After filling the carriage with flowers we
continued our way. I daresay you will be astonished
that we still found snow in many parts.

Our progress was slow on account of the many
streams we had to cross, which was only accomplished
with difficulty. At times, we had as many as six horses
to drag us through the various pools of water. On
reaching the Ob, along the high banks of which we
travelled, what a splendid view we had! The water
had overflowed the valley in parts, more than twenty
versts broad. The tops of the groups of trees rising
above the water appeared like so many islands dotted
over its broad surface in all directions.

We had now to descend the bank in order to cross the
Ob; we found the water deep in many parts; at times,
it was up to the bottom of the carriage and caused us
much uneasiness, as we feared that each step would place
us in a position from which it would be difficult to extricate us. At length we reached the river, it was near
ten A. M.; we found it utterly impossible to cross, the
wind was so very high, indeed it was a perfect hurricane.
We never for a moment entertained the thought of
returning to the station, hoping the wind might abate,
and allow us to cross, so the horses were unharnessed
and taken away, and we were left sitting on the bank.
We had hoped to reach Barnaoul by dinner-time, but the
hope was a vain one.

Hour after hour passed, and we sat anxiously watching,
trusting that with the setting of the sun the hurricane
would calm; but the sun went down, and the storm if
anything was greater; we saw a fearful night was in
store for us; we heard the thunder raging in the distance, the poor boatmen were huddled together under
a strip of canvas, and our Cossack with them.

To return to the station was now impossible, or even
to think of searching for a dwelling of any kind; the
deep pools of water we had no wish to encounter, and
so with a good laugh over our little misadventure, we
made ourselves as snug as possible for the night; we
had breakfasted at six o'clock, so we had passed a good
many hours without food. I consoled myself with the
thought that some poor creatures had not even a shelter
so good as ours.

The amusing part of the affair was, that on our road
that day we had been terribly annoyed by mosquitoes,
who attacked us without mercy; there being not a
breath of wind, and we advancing slowly, they had full
opportunity of indulging their voracious appetites;
at length they tormented us to such a degree, that
I begged of Mr. Atkinson to try the sailor's
remedy when overtaken by a calm; he complied with
my request; and, as if the signal had been answered,
the wind sprang up and at length became a
gale; at the moment I felt pleased, as the mosquitoes
now no longer tormented me; but I dearly 'paid for my
whistle,' as our dreary night on the banks of the Ob
fully proved. However, it gave us something to laugh
at, and I made a promise never to be caught meddling
with the wind again.

At daybreak we aroused the men, and urged them to
take us over, although the wind was still blowing furiously. After a great deal of talking, they at last consented, and at four o'clock we embarked, and in three
hours reached the opposite side in safety; horses were
soon procured, and we rolled along. Hungry though I
was, I would not consent to take breakfast, preferring
to reach Barnaoul, which was not far distant; a piece of
bread satisfied the cravings of the appetite.

We drove to Mr. Stroleman's
– he is one of the
officers of the Zavod
– to know where we should find
quarters; both he and Madame Stroleman wished us to
remain with them; we accepted this kind invitation,
and were soon making a good breakfast after our long
fast. The family appeared pleased at the return of my
husband. The following morning I was presented by
him to all his friends, who received me with great
kindness.

I must endeavour to explain to you how the ladies
of Barnaoul pass their time. Part of the morning is
devoted in aiding the governess in the education of the
children; then they do not disdain to occupy themselves in superintending the housekeeping department;
indeed, they rather pride themselves on it; each lady
has her store, not closet but room, and a large one
it is.

The domestic arrangements of a house, as you well
know, are rather a weak point with me; I never lose
an opportunity of seeing all I can in this way; so into
all the store rooms I went; they contained almost
every article in dry goods that you can name. There
are groceries of every kind and description, with bins
fixed round the room to contain them; then there are
tubs of flour, boxes upon boxes of candles; in short, a
well-stored magazine, and the neatness which prevails
here, as in every part of the house, was pleasing to see,
and cleanliness reigned supreme.

Necessity obliges each family to lay in a store of
dry goods sufficient for a whole year, and woe betide
the unlucky mortal who may have miscalculated his
or her wants.

In the month of February the apothecary takes his
departure from Barnaoul for the fair at Irbit, to procure thence the necessary government stores; he is
also furnished with funds from the principal families,
and a list of all the articles they may require, which
he purchases for them, so that on his return he has the
appearance of a wealthy merchant, journeying with a
large caravan. His task is rather an arduous one, but he
performs it with great goodwill; each one of the officers
in this place is willing to serve his neighbour; indeed,
they are like members of the same household, living
in peace and harmony.

Their amusements consist in social meetings at each
other's houses, and many a pleasant evening have we
passed with them.

All the officers dine with the Nachalnik, or Director
of the Mines, on Sundays, and during our stay we did
the same; after dinner they return home to take
their siesta, without which I do not believe a Russian
could exist; and in the evening, between seven and
eight, they return accompanied by the ladies; the
younger usually pass the evening in dancing, the elder
ones play at cards; at eleven, supper is placed upon
the table, which all partake of, and then retire, reaching their homes by midnight.

On Wednesday evenings another officer entertains
the little circle of friends; here the gentlemen play
cards or chess, and the ladies take their work. My first
evening spent amongst them was a most agreeable one.
I immediately felt at home, and as though I had known
them for years. The time passed merrily. Afterwards
they begged of me to bring my husband in with me, and
then I had occasion to see how much he was beloved
by them; when he sat down they formed a circle around
him, and told me he was the life of their Wednesday
evenings. On Friday evenings they meet under another
roof to partake of the hospitality there provided for
them. What renders these meetings so agreeable is
the simple and unostentatious way in which the people
assemble together.

During the summer months, scarcely a day passes
without a picnic being organised by one or other.
The servants are despatched beforehand with all the
necessary apparatus for tea, and right merrily do all pass
their time. These picnics are generally for the amusement of the children, who are joined in their games by
old and young; then we have charming walks in the
woods, to find mushrooms or gather the wild fruit and
flowers. Then there are other days when the gentlemen have shooting pic-nics. I wish you could see the
provision that is made for their sport; how they consume all the wine they take is rather mysterious, and it
often happens that a man returns twice or thrice for
more champagne.

We went to a ball in honour of Madame Annossof's
name's-day. General Annossoff is governor of Tomsk.
Dancing was kept up till a late hour, and during the
evening we had fireworks, which were really very beautiful. The whole day had been one scene of gaiety, for
we all dined at the General's; here the dinner-hour is
two o'clock.

The weather being beautiful, the company, during
the intervals of dancing, refreshed and amused themselves by strolling through the large gardens, which was
certainly preferable to the heated atmosphere of the
saloons; a ball in June seems unnatural. I must
mention a little incident which took place with the
General, who is rather an absent man, and who had
sent to Petersburg for a head-dress to present to his
wife; it arrived, and was found by him to be very beautiful. In the morning he presented himself at his
wife's dressing-room door, but was told she was busy
dressing and could not see him at present. As he was
promenading up and down the rooms waiting for her,
a servant announced a visitor; he started off to his
cabinet to receive him; in the meantime, his wife being
ready for church, and finding the General occupied,
went away without seeing him; on her return there
was a succession of visitors and subsequently dinner,
and afterwards preparations for the evening, so the
cap was no more thought of. During the evening, as
the gentlemen were playing cards, the General drew
out his pocket-handkerchief, when there was an outburst of laughter from all present
– it was the unfortunate cap which had been brought from Petersburg at so large a cost, which he was using. When
the visitor was announced in the morning, he had forgotten it was a cap he had in his hand, and thrust it
into his pocket, presuming it was his handkerchief; it
is needless to say the cap was ruined.

Mr. Atkinson and Colonel Sokolovsky have gone together to the Mrassa, and the upper part of the Tom,
where the Colonel is going on his usual summer visit to
the gold mines, so that my husband will have an
excellent opportunity of seeing all that region, and
sketching it. The ladies have persuaded me to stay
here during his few weeks' absence; but I cannot agree to
their proposal to stay with them whilst he goes to Altin
Kool, or the Golden Lake, though they are trying their
utmost to persuade me to do so. They say it is ridiculous,
the idea of my going, as the gentlemen get thoroughly
knocked up who have ventured so far; however, I have
a little wilfulness in my disposition, and am determined to try, and it will be rather odd if I do not
succeed. One lady says I may be able to ride one or
two days, and she will even give me three, but more it
is impossible to do; so they expect me to return
alone.

I THINK it better that I should begin from the time
I posted M.'s letter, and tell you, as far as I can,
everything that has taken place since that time. Well,
in that letter I said Mr. Atkinson was gone to the Mrassa
with Colonel Sokolovsky. I waited his return in order
that I might be able to answer your letter; but, when
he did return, I had immediately to prepare for my
departure on a journey of several months, which was
to commence in two days' time. Remember, it was not
as it was in Petersburg, where I had only my own
'traps' to attend to! I had, in the first place, to
separate what would be necessary for us in the Steppe,
from the clothing we should leave behind. Then there
were dry provisions to think of and to purchase, as in the
place we were going to there was nothing at all to be
obtained, excepting sheep, and they not always; then
all these were to be packed, and so contrived as to occupy
the very smallest compass possible. Believe me, I was
glad when all was finished; I was up late at night and
early in the morning. Moreover, I had bags to make
to contain the different articles, as also for bullets and
shot of different sizes. Then there was leave-taking,
and sighing, and sorrowing because I would go, and
various prognostications as to the result of the journey;
and, to say the truth, I left our friends reluctantly, having spent so pleasant a time with them all.

At last we took our departure from Barnaoul, July
9th, in a pavoska for Bisk, a town in the government
of Tomsk. The day was fearfully hot. On arriving
at the Ob, we found the water had fallen considerably;
still it was high and difficult to cross; the transit occupied
us nearly five hours. On the road beyond, instead of
deep pools of water, we found deep mud, through
which it was difficult to draw the carriage.

The road was now new to us, after traversing the Ob,
and exceedingly uninteresting; we could just see a dim
outline of the Altai mountains, but very distant.

At the last stage but one before reaching Bisk, we
had a sad stoppage; it was about eleven at night when
we discovered that we had lost Mr. Atkinson's shube, or a
fur cloak; this was very unfortunate, it being the only
warm covering we had, and, besides, it was expensive.
The Cossack took one of the horses to go in search
of it, whilst we sat waiting his return. Hour after
hour passed without any signs of him
– we began to
be very uneasy, as the night was dark, and the
roads bad. Four o'clock in the morning still found us
waiting and watching; at length, we resolved to go onto
the next station, and despatch some one in search of him.
One hour after our arrival we were rejoiced to see him
walk in: he had returned to the station whence we
started to see if it had been left there, as he had
searched along the road as well as he was able in the
obscurity without discovering it; but, alas! no one had
seen it, so he wended his way back, when, within two
versts of the spot where he left us, he found the shube
lying on the side of the road.

Arrived in Bisk, we drove to the Ispravonik's, who
received us most politely, and gave orders to have all
prepared for our onward journey. For instance, an
interpreter was necessary, also another Cossack, then
we had to procure vodky for the men, and various other
little arrangements to make.

Colonel Keil (the officer in command of the Cossacks)
called upon us and invited us to tea; he was a most
gentlemanly man; we spent several hours with him;
my husband gained much information from him; but,
unfortunately, I was the guest of the wife, and from her
I would defy anyone to gain information upon any
subject, excepting it might be dirt! and on this point
I fancy her information would be original. On entering the large court-yard I observed the nurse-maid with
two fine children; one was sitting on her lap whilst
she was searching about the hair and occupied à la
chasse of I leave you to judge what
– rest assured I was
not prepossessed with the place. At first, I did not for a
moment suspect they were the children of the house, but
afterwards they were ushered in to make our acquaintance.

After spending some hours with the Colonel we
returned to the Ispravonik's to prepare for starting; but
he so earnestly entreated of us to stay for a few hours
longer, that we consented. There was a ball in honour
of his wife's name's-day. I felt a little abashed at my
costume, which, though exceedingly pretty, was not
according to our English notions. I will try and
describe it to you. The material was grey draps de
dame, made short with Turkish 'continuations,' black
leather belt, tight body; buttoned in front, small white
collar and white cuffs, grey hat and brown veil: in
this costume, minus the hat, I entered the ball-room.
Here we found the ladies seated in chairs, stuck close
together all round the apartment, and each lady having
a plate in her hand filled with cedar nuts, which she was
occupied in cracking and eating as fast as she could;
their mouths were in constant motion, though every
eye was turned upon poor me, who would gladly have
shrunk into one of the nutshells.

We stood talking with Colonel Keil: we were sorry
to see so talented a man reduced to the position of
being obliged to make associates of such an assemblage
as we met here. He said he rarely mixed with them;
there were times when he was obliged to attend these
gatherings; that night, on our account, he had been induced to accept the invitation. He continued, 'Not one
single associate have I here, and, if you will come with
me, I will show you how rationally they spend their
time.' We wandered with him into other rooms, where we
found the gentlemen at cards, some quarrelling over
them, others drinking hard, and, again, others who had
already had more than a sufficiency. 'Drink,' the Colonel
said, 'I cannot; in playing cards, I take no pleasure; so
I spend my time with my books, or I go alone to shoot:
thus I pass my leisure hours.' I enquired if the ladies
were always as silent as I now found them? 'Yes; when
any of the opposite sex are present, but when alone
for a short time, the noise of these men is nothing in
comparison with theirs; and now they have a theme
which will last for months; that is, your visit.'

Supper was served to us before the company sat
down, as we were anxious to be on the road, and at
eleven we took leave of the courteous Ispravonik, on
our way to the military station of Sandyp.

The ascent out of the valley of the Bïa, a little above
Bisk, was difficult, but we got on pretty well. The
lightning, which was frequent and vivid, kept us awake,
watching it during the night, so that we were enabled
to observe the country we were travelling over. For
some distance we found small round hills, but no
vestige of wood. After this we ran along some hills
overlooking the valley of the Bïa; here the scenery was
very pretty, particularly as we saw it at the dawn of
day. As far as the eye could reach nothing was visible
but dark pine forests, with some fine bold mountain
scenery in the distance.

It was six o'clock A. M. when we reached the far post
of Sandyp, which was prettily situated about a verst
from the Bïa. Almost immediately after our arrival we
had a fearful thunderstorm; and for our comfort we
were told we should meet with them daily in the
mountains. We found no one living here but Cossacks
with their families.

And here we had to leave everything we could
dispense with in the shape of clothing till our return,
as our journey from this point was to be performed
on horseback, no carriage being able to penetrate
beyond. At five o'clock, the horses were ready for our
departure. All the women had turned out to see me
off. One old woman with tears had entreated me not
to go, no lady had ever attempted the journey before.
There were Kalmuk women living beyond, but they
had never seen them. In the early part of the day she
had offered to let her daughter go to take care of me;
however, when the daughter came in, a healthy, strong
girl, some thirty-five summers old, she stoutly refused
(to my delight) to move; the mother tried to persuade,
and did all she could, it was of no use; and I was left
in peace.

We now mounted our horses, I riding en cavalier.
I must tell you that I took from Moscow with me a beautiful saddle, which I was occupied one day in Barnaoul
examining, when Colonel Sokolovsky entered. He demanded what I was going to do with it; my reply was,
'To ride: I cannot do so without one, and the Kalmuks, I
presume, have no such things.' 'No!' said he, sarcastically, 'and they will be enchanted to see yours; but what
will please them most will be the sight of an English lady
sprawling on the steppes, or with a broken leg in the
mountains. But,' said he, 'seriously speaking, you cannot
go with such a saddle: first, the horses are not accustomed to them; and secondly, in the mountains it is
quite out of the question.' He then offered me one of his
own, which I accepted, and left mine till our return;
and thankful am I that I did so, otherwise I should not
be here to tell the tale of our narrow escapes. At
times, we have had ledges of rock to ride round, where,
had I had a side-saddle, my legs would have been
crushed to pieces or torn off. At times, I have had to
lift my feet on to the saddle, there being barely room
for the horse to pass between high masses of rock. Then
there were passes to ride over, formed by the granite
mountains, in places quite perpendicular down to the
Bïa. Our horses have stood on many points, where we
could see the water boiling and foaming probably 1,000
feet below us; just imagine me on one of these places
with a side-saddle!

The women followed us a short distance wishing us
a pleasant journey. We had about 400 versts to travel,
over mountains, through forests, and across rivers;
about half a verst from Sandyp, we entered a large
forest of pines; an hour's ride through it brought us
to the banks of the Bïa, at this point a broad stream,
and, oh! what vegetation, the grass and plants growing
far above our heads, as we rode by on horseback.

That night, for the first time in my life, I had to
sleep à la belle étoile, with my feet not ten paces
from the Bïa. First a voilok (a kind of felt cloth) was
spread on the ground, over that two bears' skins, so
that no damp could pass through. I lay down, of
course without undressing. The feeling was a strange
one; sleeping in a forest, the water rippling at my feet,
and surrounded by men alone.

The following morning I was up at dawn, and
dabbling in the river; at six we started and rode on till
dinner-time; we then took two hours' rest, and dined
off most exquisite fish, caught fresh from the stream.
About three, we again started forward, and continued
our journey till eight in the evening. We were able to
have a balagan (a sort of tent) erected for this night,
so we slept more comfortably. Moreover, by hanging
a sheet up at the open side of the balagan, I was enabled to undress. I now found that Mr. Atkinson had
been in the habit of sleeping amongst these wandering
tribes without doing so. I told him, without undressing
I should soon be knocked up, and advised his following my example, which he did, and continued doing
so with benefit to himself. Indeed, in the pavoska I
invariably unfastened every string and button before
lying down. How delighted I felt this night to stretch
my weary cramped limbs! On horseback, I did not
feel in the least tired; but, when I was assisted off, I
could not stand for several minutes for the first two or
three days. On the fourth, as I appeared to be daily
growing worse, I determined to conquer this weakness;
so, setting my feet firmly on the ground, and refusing
the aid of anyone, I walked; I own that for an instant
I thought I should fall. After this, I never again but
once experienced the feeling of weakness.

On the second morning after our departure, immediately on leaving our night's quarters, I had rather a narrow
escape. We had to ascend some high granite rocks.
When near the summit my horse stumbled and slipped
back, placing me in rather a dangerous position; but I
kept my seat and got him up; and proud enough, I can
tell you, I was to have gained the admiration of the
Kalmuks, because they are splendid riders, and it is
satisfactory to be praised by those who are capable of
judging. After travelling near fifty versts, we arrived
at a Kalmuk village; here the young girls brought me
plenty of fruit, and when I went to bathe (which I do
three times a day, that is, when I rise in the morning,
when we stop for dinner, and when we bivouac for
the night), I had a whole bevy of them, all anxious
to do something for me; but one of their principal
objects is to handle every article of clothing they can
come near.

In these quiet Kalmuk villages, far from the strife of
the busy world in which we exist, are performed the
same scenes, only in a ruder manner, as we witness daily
around us: jealousy, love, and suicide are not unknown
to these uncultivated daughters of nature. I must tell
you of a singular love-scene which came under our
notice, and which was nigh having a very tragic ending.

We had just concluded dinner and were preparing
to depart, when we saw a young and pretty girl, with
black eyes, running past us towards the Bïa, which, at
this point, runs boiling and foaming at a fearful rate
over large stones. There was a look of wild anguish
on her face. We then saw a man on horseback galloping
after her and a number of others following. The instant
she reached the stream, she leaped into the boiling
flood; at the same time, tearing off her head-dress, she
threw it at the man on horseback, and was instantly
carried down the river at a frightful speed.

A great rush was made to save her: some men at
work farther down the river put off in a small boat they
had, but missed her; several jumped on horseback and
galloped along the banks as hard as they could; when
some distance beyond her, one of them sprang into the
stream and succeeded in catching hold of her, and with
much difficulty brought her ashore. The matter was
then explained. An attachment had sprung up between
this young girl and a youth of her own village, but he
being poor had not dared to ask her in marriage of her
brother, under whose guardianship she was: thus the
young couple had determined to wait more prosperous
days; meanwhile, a rich old man having become enamoured of her charms, and being rejected by her,
applied to the brother, who gave his consent to their
union; on discovering this she fled from the village and
secreted herself in the one where we found her. On
the morning of our arrival, her brother (the man whom
we had seen on horseback) having discovered her whereabouts, had come to take her away, and by force marry
her to the man she abhorred; to avoid which she
preferred death by plunging into the stream. After a
time she began to show symptoms of recovery, when I
sorrowfully left her, as we had a long ride before us.
Although we returned this way we did not stop at this
village, as we descended the river on a raft
– thus we
were never able to learn the fate of the young damsel
so miraculously saved; no one had expected she would
be taken out of the water alive.

On the following day we had, strange to say, another
curious scene where we halted to dine. We found a
group of men surrounding an old woman, and, a short
distance from them, a group of girls assembled around
a very pretty young girl about sixteen years old, who
appeared quite unconcerned, and was busy cracking nuts.
As soon as our party approached and they observed me,
they all hastened to us, offering me nuts, some ran and
gathered bilberries; the young girl with her nuts never
moved away, but kept casting glances at the group of
men and the old woman. I afterwards found that she was
her mother, and the six men, all of various ages, were
lovers and candidates for her hand, one of whom the
mother thought a most desirable match.

My husband was now called upon to decide the case,
whereupon he took his seat upon a piece of rock. Here
the old woman and the lovers surrounded him, the
talmash standing by his side to interpret. Each one
pleaded his cause with much earnestness and apparently
with great eloquence and fervor, but their words seemed
to fall upon the ears of the maiden without effect, as
she remained immovable.

One of the lovers described the impression her beauty
had made upon him, another spoke of his rank, a third
talked of his skill in the chase, a fourth of his strength
in case she needed defence from man or animal, a fifth
of the care he would take of her in sickness as in health;
but the most eloquent of all was an old man; he made
a long speech; he spoke of his possessions, of the land
he cultivated, of his herds of cattle, of his position as
the chief of the village, and finally of the great love he
bore towards the maiden; how he had watched her day
by day growing up from childhood to womanhood. The
old lover became greatly excited. When all had ceased
speaking, the speeches were translated to Mr. Atkinson,
who ordered the young girl forward, and asked her,
through the medium of the interpreter, which of the suitors
she preferred. Whereupon she declared, if she were
allowed to choose, she should not consent to take any one
of them; as none of those present pleased her. Mr.
Atkinson then suggested that it would be better for her
to remain with her mother till some one proposed for
her more to her own liking. The lovers retired satisfied,
since no one had obtained more favour than the other.
The young girl thanked Mr. Atkinson by a smile, but
the mother looked disappointed, as she had pleaded for
the old man, whose age appeared more suited to the
mother than to the daughter, he being the old woman's
senior by many years.

We now had a ride through a forest of pines; the day
was sultry hot, not a breath of wind penetrated the
dense mass above and around us, the atmosphere was
charged with electricity. I felt unable to bear up; at
last (I am sure you will not credit it), I slept, ay and
dreamed, sitting on my horse; my head falling heavily on
one side aroused me, and this happened two or three
times before I could shake the drowsiness from my
eyelids.

At a distance of twelve versts we stopped for the
night, this being the only resting-place before reaching
the Lake, and at nine o'clock lay down as usual under
our tent. Luckily I always placed the clothes we took
off under our heads to raise them, as we had only two
small leathern cushions with us. In the middle of the
night I awoke drenched through and through, not a
dry thread on me. The rain was pouring in torrents,
the thunder growling and the lightning flashing; you
must know that the top of the tent was covered with
grass only, as in this place there was no birch bark
to be had, with which they are usually covered. I
awoke Mr. Atkinson, who wanted to get up, but, as I
then said, of what use would it have been? We had
not a dry corner to go to, and, if he had put on his
clothes, he would have been soaked through again in
less than half an hour; so I persuaded him to lie still
and try to sleep, which I can tell you was rather a hard
matter, with the rain pattering down on our faces; however, I turned on my side, drew the clothes over my
head, and managed, ere long, to doze off, when I slept
till morning.

When we awoke, the sun had not yet risen, but we
could perceive it was going to be a fine day. I then
got out of bed, but it was more like turning out of a
vapour bath. I shall not easily forget that night. Had
the same scene taken place now, I should not have
thought so much of it, but at that time I was just beginning my travels, which made it appear terrible. About a
verst from our night's encampment we found the rocks
so high and abrupt, that we could not ascend; this compelled us to go round a point jutting into the river,
which runs at this place over large stones, forming a
great rapid. There was a narrow ledge on which the
horses could go, but up to the saddle-flaps in water. The
greatest care is required to pass along; once off the ledge
and you are instantly in deep water, and carried away
amongst the rocks to certain death. All passed safely
except myself, my horse got into deeper water than was
agreeable. An old Kalmuk woman who had joined our
party, seeing me in this position, was fearfully alarmed
and screamed out lustily; it was not the depth she feared,
but my being carried out into the rapid, where I should
quickly have been dashed to pieces; however, I sat quite
still, until the Cossack managed to seize the bridle,
and drawing my horse round, landed me in safety. It
was truly a most dangerous place; my boots, which, by
the way, reached above my knees, were filled with
water. However, we continued our way slowly, as we
had a mountain to ascend, in some parts so steep that
our horses often slipped back; still we reached the
summit without accident, when, oh! what a splendid
view was spread out before us! Immediately under our
feet ran the river Bïa, which we could see winding its
course among the mountains for a long distance, like a
thread of silver. Looking to the west, the mountains
rose far above the snow line, their summits beautifully
defined against a deep blue sky. The nearest mountains were clothed in magnificent foliage of a fine
warm green, shading off into the distance with purple
and blue, whilst the foreground on which we stood was
covered with the feather fern, large shrubs and long
grass, equalling in luxuriance plants grown under a
tropical sun.

We reached Altin Kool or the Golden Lake in the
evening, just as the sun was setting. It was one of the
most lovely scenes that could well be imagined; a bright
sun shed its light over lake and mountain; the water was
calm and shining like molten gold, in which the rocks,
trees, and mountains were reflected as in a mirror, redoubling the beauty of the scene. We sat on our horses
looking at this picture for a long time, enraptured by its
beauty. It repaid us well for all our toils, and, when
contrasted with the rugged scenes we had passed over,
this was like enchantment; and still more so as I looked
around, for mountains rose up on every side, with
apparently no outlet: it was as if we had been dropped
down from the clouds into fairy land. In the evening
we crossed the lake in a small boat to a Kalmuk village;
several of the houses were built of wood, and covered
with birch bark: we entered some of them; they contained only the cooking utensils, with a box or two
to hold the treasures of the inmates, who were, apparently, very poor. The fire was made in the centre
of the room, with an aperture in the roof to allow of
the smoke escaping. They presented me with a large
bunch of wild onions, such as we afterwards found in
abundance on the shores of the lake. These onions
are consumed in large quantities by the Cossacks, as well
as by these wild tribes, as are many other bulbous roots.

As we returned home in our boat, and when about
the middle of the lake, Mr. Atkinson, who had taken
his flute with him, commenced playing an air, to the
great astonishment as well as delight of our new friends.
The power he thus gained over these simple-hearted
people by his music was extraordinary. We travelled
round the lake in small boats, it was a tour of eleven
days, and in all that time he never once lost his influence;
like Orpheus, he enchanted all who heard him; without a murmur they obeyed him in everything; indeed,
there was often a dispute to ascertain which might do
his bidding; and there was no lack of hands to spin the
line which was required to sound the lake. We spent a
considerable time attaching the fathom marks to it,
but, unfortunately, it was never used, on account of the
continued storms, one of which I shall not easily forget.
We had left our first encampment at an early hour, and
commenced our voyage; our party consisted, besides
ourselves, of our Cossack, the talmash, and another
Cossack, who had been sent forward to see that men and
canoes were ready; our Kalmuk boatmen, eleven in
number, were thorough wild-looking fellows, half naked.
It was a lovely morning, and, as we advanced, each turn
appeared to open out new beauties to our view. I was
lost in admiration. About mid-day Mr. Atkinson, looking towards the west, perceived a storm was gathering,
or rather, I ought to say, was following us. The
Kalmuks also perceived it, and commenced pulling as
hard as they could, for you must understand that for
many versts the rocks rise abruptly from the water,
affording no shelter whatever; it was a distance of ten
versts they had to pull ere we could land, and they told
us that, if caught in one of these storms, so frequently
met with here, nothing could save us. At length we
reached a small mountain torrent, with a little headland jutting out; having rounded this they ran the
canoes ashore, and hurrying us out dragged them high
out of the water; then we all hastened up to some trees,
thinking they would afford us shelter from the coming
storm; but, ere we reached them, it had given us a
thorough drenching.

We now looked round to examine our position, and
found we were landed on a mass of rocks and earth,
brought down by the torrent, on which cedar-trees of
a great size were growing; under one of these we now
stood; about twenty paces from us rose up a high
rock, perhaps two thousand feet, with trees growing
on every ledge or crevice where they could take root.
Turning westward the effect was awfully grand: the
clouds were rolling on in black masses, covering the
craggy summits near us in darkness, while, above these,
white clouds were rolling and curling like steam from
some mighty cauldron. The thunder was yet distant,
but the wind was heard approaching with a noise like
the roaring of the sea in a great tempest. On looking
down the lake the effect was truly grand; the water,
which, ten minutes before, was calm and reflecting
everything like a mirror, was now one sheet of white
foam, driven along like snow or sleet. We now perceived
that, had we been caught in this, our canoes could not
have withstood it, but would have gone down instantly.

The storm now appeared to be concentrated over our
heads, and drove us farther into the woods for shelter;
where we took up our station under a large tree: the
lightning began to descend in thick streams, tinging
everything with red, when almost immediately we heard
the crash of a large tree struck down not far from us,
while the thunder rolled over our heads in one continued roar; the echo of one peal had not died away
before another came. I could not forbear exclaiming,
'Now, for the first time, I understand that passage in
Byron where he says,

'Far along,
From peak to peak, the rattling crags among,
Leaps the live thunder. Not from one lone cloud.
But every mountain now hath found a tongue.'

The storm continued for more than an hour, then all
was calm and sunny. I had never in my life before
seen a real storm; this was the first, and though I have
seen, and been caught in many a one since, for we met
with them daily while on this lake, none ever made
the same impression on me; it was awfully grand, and
never to be forgotten.

We were not over well supplied with provisions on
our voyage round the lake; there were only about two
villages, and those on the opposite side to where we
were; and even in these villages there was not much to
be had, the people were so very poor; we had therefore
to depend entirely on the produce of the gun; and, game
not being abundant, we were obliged to take what we
could get, which was very often a species of crow, extremely disagreeable, hunger alone enabling us to eat
them.

On stopping one evening, the Kalmuks said there was
a village on the opposite side of the lake; we therefore despatched a Cossack and men for one of their goats,
the only animals they reared. I had then an opportunity
of judging of the distance across, Mr. Atkinson having
told me it was from twelve to fifteen versts to the opposite side
– a fact I could scarcely credit. The distances,
on account of the purity of the atmosphere, are so very
deceptive, and I have more than once had occasion to
remark the accuracy of Mr. Atkinson's judgment in these
matters, and also with regard to the weather, for he in a
short time far surpassed the men who had lived the whole
of their lives in these regions, though they are excellent
judges of it. Rarely has a Cossack the slightest idea
of anything of the kind, for when the question is put to
one of them as to what weather we shall have, the
answer invariably is, 'Bogh Yevo znai!' (God knows).
If you put the same question to any of the tribes met
with in these regions, they usually cast their eyes
around them before replying, and their answers were
generally right; but I never knew my husband to fail in
his judgment.

Darkness had shrouded every object from view ere
the men returned, but it was not long before the cauldrons were doing duty over the blazing fires. We
went for a short walk along the shore; on returning,
and as we drew near our bivouac, one of the wildest
scenes I had ever witnessed came into view. Three enormous fires piled high were blazing brightly. Our
Kalmuk boatmen and Cossacks were seated around
them, the lurid light shone upon their faces and upon
the trees above, giving the men the appearance of
ferocious savages; in the foreground was our little
leafy dwelling, with its fire burning calmly but cheerfully in front of it.

I must not forget to tell you that I one day shot a
squirrel. I have learned to shoot pretty well, an exercise
I was obliged to practise in case of an attack. I have
the small rifle Mr. Tate gave me, also a shot-gun,
presented to me by Mr. Astershoff whilst in Tomsk, and
in my saddle I have a pair of pistols; so you see I am
well armed. I saw the squirrel in the tree, and having
my rifle in my hand, I raised it and shot at him; one
of the Kalmuks standing by me was greatly pleased,
patted me on the back, and ran down the bank to bring
it; I could scarcely believe my eyes when I saw it, for
I had imagined it was trying to escape. I had
never shot at anything before but the target. The
poor fellow came and begged of me, as a favour, that I
would allow him to have it for his supper, which
request was granted, on condition that the skin should
be mine. These people seem not to care what they eat;
whenever Mr. Atkinson shot a lynx, they always consumed it.

I gained great renown from shooting the squirrel; to
say truth, I was so elated about it myself, that I formed
the absurd notion of shooting a bear which had, during
the night, visited our camp, but without disturbing anybody, having walked within four feet of where we were
sleeping, as was evident by the traces he had left behind
him. The following morning the whole party, with the
exception of one man, started off to seek something for
dinner, when the notion entered my head, that perhaps
the bear might return; so, taking down my rifle, I
placed a cap on it in readiness, and laid it near me,
rejoicing in the idea of the surprise all would exhibit
at seeing the bear lying by me on their return to camp;
but, to my chagrin, the monster never made his appearance. The Kalmuk who was left behind was perfectly
amazed when, on asking me what I was going to do
with my rifle, I answered, to shoot the bear when he
came.

Whilst at the head of the lake, we had a visit from
some ferocious-looking fellows, although they were only
Kalmuks. It was night when they arrived; there were
about twenty, and, when seated around the blazing
fires,
– with their arms slipped out of their fur coats,
which were hanging loosely around them, leaving the
upper part of their greasy muscular and brawny bodies
perfectly naked, and nearly black from exposure to
the air and sun, and with pigtails, like those of the
Chinese,
– their aspect was most fierce; and still more
so, when they all commenced quarreling about a few
ribbons and pieces of silk I had given to our men. They
had tied strips of red around their necks; but I satisfied
all parties, as I thought, by giving some to the new
comers; it did appear very ridiculous to see these
great strong men taking delight in things which would
only have given pleasure to a child at home. And yet
I do not know whether we ought to look upon their
doing this with contempt; how many men in a civilised
country take pride in adorning their persons with the
view of looking fine, and these simple creatures were
doing the same, only in a ruder manner! Still the
quarreling continued, and then it turned out that the
fellows were drunk. We had much difficulty in getting
rid of them, and not until near midnight did they take
their departure.

These poor men are hardly dealt with, having to pay
tribute to two emperors, the Chinese as well as the
Russian. They are extremely good-natured. Whenever
they saw me attempting to climb the rocks in search of
flowers or fruit, they would ascend most difficult places
to procure them for me. Once when in the boat I saw
some china-asters growing out of a cleft of the rock,
where I supposed it was impossible to reach them; but
one of the canoes paddled to the side and a man
clambered up, hanging on to branches growing out of
the rocks
– it was frightful to see him clinging to such
slender twigs. Whenever Mr. Atkinson was busy, and
I marched off in search of flowers or fruit, our Cossack
Alexae, a giant of a man, always thought it a duty
incumbent on him to follow me at a respectful distance
wherever I went, and, when not able to go himself, he
sent a Kalmuk with me.

Mr. Atkinson was occupied one day sketching a
magnificent waterfall in a recess of the Kara-Korum
mountain; beautiful and hot as the day was, here we
found ice and snow; indeed, we found snow in many of
the ravines as we ascended this side of the lake. Under
all this mass of rocks, snow, and ice, the water passes
into the lake, and amongst this accumulation, perhaps
of ages, were growing, here and there, bushes of red
currants. All the men as well as myself commenced
gathering the delicious berries. As I wandered on, I
observed some bushes where the fruit was hanging in
tempting clusters, but to reach it I had to cross an
abominable spot of slush and ice. I was standing,
deliberating whether I ought to cross or not, and
whether it was worth the dirtying of my boots, when
I felt myself gently lifted over. I turned round,
presuming it was my husband, but no! there was
Alexae wandering off in another direction; I ungenerously felt a little indignant, for I had made the
remark to my husband that he always treated me as a
child, and this act was a confirmation of my impression.

On our return voyage we crossed to the north side,
where it was nearly bare of wood and vegetation: here
we found several caverns; one was pointed out to us
where some of these poor fellows had lain down to rest
for the night, and where a large mass of rock had fallen
and buried them; not returning to their homes, their
comrades sought them, visiting each resting-place they
were accustomed to stop at; when, on arriving at this
one, there was no longer any doubt as to the fate of
their companions.

Farther on we entered one of these caves to dine;
it was a lovely spot, but after having dined, and my
husband had finished sketching the place, a storm
arose, and lasted till near dusk; being late, the men
suggested our passing the night here, but to this
proposal I strongly objected; no persuasions could
induce me to stop; it was only a few hours before
that they had shuddered, when passing the cavern where
their companions had met with so sad a fate, and here
I shuddered at the idea of stopping in a similar place.

We spent a happy time on this our voyage round the
lake; in years to come, if we are spared, how many a
pleasant hour we shall pass in recalling to mind these
times! Even now, as I glance at the sketches, each one
has a tale to tell of joy, or dangers escaped.

As we returned to the spot whence we had started,
to commence our voyage round the lake, it was with a
feeling of regret; for some time we had seen the storm
gathering, and now, instead of the placid golden lake
without a ruffle, that had gladdened us on our arrival,
the water was black as ink, and the waves rose to a
great height, making a tremendous noise as they lashed
with fury against the rocks. I was sorry, and still this
was grand to look upon
– beauty of a different character.

At this spot we found some most delicious fish, about
the size of a herring, only more exquisite in flavour;
indeed, I nowhere tasted anything to compare with
them. We salted a barrel of them, and sent them by
one of the Cossacks, who was returning to Barnaoul, to
Colonel Sokolovsky.

We now bade adieu to the lake, and at forty versts
from it we had a raft made, on which we descended
the Bïa to Sandyp, making an agreeable variation to
our former route; besides which, we had an opportunity
of seeing the fine bold scenery of this river.

My friend, the old woman of Sandyp, on hearing we
were proceeding to Kopal, came to me, and kneeling
down, bowed her forehead to the ground, saying,
'Matooshka moi' (mother of mine), 'pardon me, I have
a great boon to ask of you.' I raised her, but she was
down again in a minute. At length, with the tears
trickling fast, she told me she had a son in Kopal,
related to me the miserable condition they were in,
with not a house to shelter them, and little besides
their bread to eat; whilst at Sandyp they had no want.
She concluded by begging of me to carry him a
gastenitz, 'a present;' I naturally consented, but, oh
horror! she gave me sufficient to load a camel; at last we
got it reduced to a parcel, containing I do not know
what, besides a tub of honey and some wax. The old
lady made me smile by saying I must not let any of
the Cossacks know it was not mine, otherwise there
would be none left by the time we reached Kopal. I
could not then comprehend her meaning, but since I
have fully understood it.

We have had many Cossacks in our service, but never
found them otherwise than willing, trustworthy men;
without asking, they would not have taken a pin belonging to us; they might have been trusted with untold
gold; but not so with regard to those who were not
under their care and protection, they would then take
the first thing they could lay their hands on.

I was once told by a Cossack officer that their pay
was inadequate to their wants, it was really insufficient
to purchase a uniform, 'and yet,' said he, 'we are expected
to have it always good, and, besides, we must have a
horse; so what are we to do? why, steal one.' To my
knowledge it is not alone horses but other things likewise. At one time we used to consider their conduct
very reprehensible, but after becoming acquainted with
all their means, we were much more lenient in blaming
them; it is the system which is defective.

The soldiers are quite a different race of men. We
never had but two, and both of them thieves; they
could not be trusted with anything, and besides which,
their appearance is against them; they are a low class
of individuals, whereas the Cossack is a gentleman, and
most of them educated men.

We had much trouble with the old lady's honey, from
its oozing out of the tub. Here the honey is perfectly
pure and transparent, and can be poured out like oil;
the scent of it is exquisite, and it tasted of almost every
flower we met with in the Altai; not a cottage we
stopped at but a plate of it was brought to us. Bees
are kept by every cottager, and in some places in the
Altai we found wild bees; the Cossacks often used to
get their honey. The tub of honey at last reached
Kopal. When we asked for the man, three came all of
the same name; it was delivered with the parcel, &c.,
to one who was from Sandyp. About a couple of hours
afterwards a Cassock, quite breathless from running,
made his appearance, saying he was the person to whom
the articles belonged, he had received a letter saying
they were coming; I was glad afterwards to hear that
he got everything but his honey; that, unfortunately,
was nearly all consumed by the Philistines who had
taken possession of it. It was vexatious after all my
care about it, but the poor fellow was quite consoled
by hearing news from home; there were so many comrades he had to ask after, of whom I knew nothing. I
did my best in giving him all the information I could,
and he appeared satisfied.

From Sandyp we had started without a day's rest to the
Katoonia; again I made near 1,000 versts on horseback.
This journey occupied three weeks, on account of the
sketching. Parts of the road were really frightful! I have
ridden over mountains far above the line of vegetation;
one we crossed near the river Koksa is well impressed on
my mind. We left our camp before six in the morning,
and at one halted for dinner, and about half-past two
again started forward. The way was beautiful but exceedingly rugged; we appeared to be travelling over a
number of plateaus, for crest after crest was reached,
and on arriving at each I always expected it was the
last; but still the same difficulties lay before us, another
plateau and another crest; but when we did arrive at
the highest point, what a scene lay before us! There
stood the Bielouka in all his majesty, the sun was just
shedding his last rays on this giant of the Altai, he
appeared to stand out so proudly from all the surrounding mountains, looking like a ruby encircled by
diamonds, into which his colour was slightly reflected. I was lost in admiration at the beauty of the scene,
even the men drew up their horses and gazed at the
spectacle, exclaiming 'slavonie' (glorious). We stood
watching the sight for some moments, till aroused by
Alexae, saying we must forward.

This day we had to pass round a point where but one
horse at a time could go. To our right, the rocks rose
up perpendicularly, while to our left was a fearful
abyss, down which, I know, few would like to gaze, and
where rocks were strewn about in wild confusion; one
false step of the horse would have hurled both him and
his rider into the awful depth below. One of the
Kalmuks wished to blind my eyes, and lead my horse
by his bridle, but I would not consent to the arrangement, nor even allow anyone to touch my horse. I
had learned from experience that where there is
danger, it was ever better to trust to the sagacity of
the animals, who appear to have a full knowledge of
the difficulties they encounter. At times you see them
place the foot and try whether all is safe; if not, they
go to another place; and what hardy animals they are!
none of them are shod
– everything is nature here.

We now commenced the descent, which was far
worse than the ascent. Rocks were strewn about in all
directions, making it difficult to proceed; at last, about
dusk, we reached a plateau, where the men desired to
stop the night; but, as Alexae said it was not a very
great distance to the foot of the mountain, we consented to proceed, thinking the men would be more
comfortable, although I would gladly have stopped; we
now continued descending, each step becoming worse.
When night set in, we found we must still proceed, as
there was not a foot of ground on which to encamp.
Moreover, the pass became so narrow, that we had to
go in single file; the leader, then Mr. Atkinson, and
I following, the men bringing up the rear. For some
time we had heard the roaring of the water to our
right, it now became deafening, carrying with it stones
and rocks. The men had been continually calling out
to us to keep to the left; now their voices, from the
terrific noise of the fall, could no longer be heard, so
with a beating heart I stooped forward on my horse,
trying to penetrate the gloom, I now and then caught
a faint glimpse of my husband's white steed, so that I
knew I was following in the right track. I gave my
horse the reins and trusted to him to carry me safely.
I found it useless for me even to attempt to guide him.

After some weary hours of expectation, we arrived
safely at the bottom of the pass, and proceeded on level
ground, but it was eleven o'clock ere we reached the
village of Kokshinska.

I had been so many hours on my horse, and had
passed over such frightfully difficult roads, that when
we stopped, I was actually obliged to be led, for I could
not stand, my limbs were so benumbed. After lying on
the bench in the cottage for a few seconds, I recovered.
There was no possibility of giving way to fatigue on
this journey; I had all kinds of duties to perform. The
next day, after bathing, I was all right again. I have
generally been able to bathe every morning and evening
this summer, and sometimes in the middle of the day;
without doing so, I do not believe I should have accomplished the journey half as well.

As I was sitting breakfasting the following morning,
I observed one of the peasant girls running as hard as
she could; breathlessly she came into the room to gaze at
the wild animals, who, by arriving the evening before,
had raised such a commotion in their peaceful valley.
I spoke to her, but, receiving no answer, went on with
my breakfast. After standing there upwards of half-an-hour, I wished to get rid of her, as she had nothing
to say, so gave her some beads for a necklace. I had a
goodly supply of these articles with me; but it was no
use, go she would not. After having critically examined
me, she at length spoke, saying, 'They tell me you
came down that mountain last night,' pointing in the
direction whence we had come; 'is it true?' I answered 'Yes!' After again looking at me some time, she
said, 'Ne oojalee pravda' (it surely is not true); 'why,
we look at that mountain with dread in the daytime,
and you, you came down at night!' and again she stared
as though her eyes would start from their sockets, and
with more astonishment than before, and repeating,
'but is it true?'

Here I had no lack of willing attendants; they had
never had a visit from one of their own countrywomen,
but an Englishwoman was an object they had no conception of. Then the questions that were put to me
would fill volumes; amongst the rest, the never-ending
theme, had I ever seen the emperor? Yes, many times,
but never spoken to him. Then the grand duchesses,
what were they like; were they pretty? It was glorious
news to tell them that the Grand Duchess Olga was
married. I had to give a description of how they
dressed, and what ornaments they wore, and how the
hair was decorated; and said one of my new friends,
now she is married, she wears a platock (a handkerchief) on her head. I had some difficulty in keeping my
countenance, but I thoroughly shocked them by saying
the daughter of an emperor never wore a handkerchief
on her head, either before or after marriage. Indeed,
I am not sure whether the Imperial family have gained
in the estimation of their worshippers by my visit.
They are looked upon as something divine by these
simple-minded but kind-hearted people.

What greatly astonished me was the uncleanly habits
of these inhabitants of one of the most lovely valleys
to be found in the world. They are surrounded with
every comfort they can desire; and a pure crystal
stream running close to their dwellings, and yet they are
swarming with vermin of a most disgusting character!
I always prefer sleeping in the open air, the animals
which crawl over me there are all clean in comparison
to those we meet with in the dirty cottages, and still not
dirty to look at; on the contrary, the walls, tables, and
floors are daintily clean and white.

It was our intention to have gone to the Bielouka;
men, horses, and provisions had been prepared at Ouemonia for that purpose, but after a sojourn of a few
days in the mountains, on the morning of the 3rd, my
husband was obliged reluctantly to tun his horse's
head, but with a determination to return at some
future period. I would gladly have accompanied him
had he determined to go on, but I was rejoiced when he
said we must not proceed farther; we had travelled over
versts of morass, our horses sinking up to their saddle-flaps, and at night encamping on the snowy mountains,
with a bleak cutting wind penetrating to the very
bones. In the morning we found the snow had fallen so
thick, that the men were invisible; they were lying on the
ground covered in their shubes near the camp fire,
which, in spite of the falling snow, was burning brightly.
The poor fellows looked like a number of mounds placed
around the fire to keep it from being swept away by
the wind. They told me the snow kept them warm, the
wind being unable to penetrate. As we rode along that
day we looked like a band of wandering spirits clothed
in pure white, riding on horses with black legs. Had we
been here one month earlier we could have accomplished
the journey, but the middle of August was far too late,
even a fortnight earlier it might have been done; had
we persisted in continuing, we might all have perished.

On our descent to the Katoonia we found various
kinds of delicious fruit; the raspberries were so large
that one could not be placed in the mouth at once;
we had black and red currants in abundance
– there
are two kinds of the latter. I was never able to
distinguish them in appearance, they were so much
alike, but our men recognised them immediately; one
was called what it really was, 'the sour.'

We encamped on a pretty spot on the shores of the
Katoonia. What a change from our prospects in the
mountains! Here all was sunshine, and a genial warmth
seemed to spread itself over the whole frame.

We were much annoyed by the mosquitoes, as likewise a small fly, very bright and green in the sun; it was
exceedingly venomous, for one settling on Mr. Atkinson's hand it bit him severely, and his hand was painful
for many days after.

We descended the river in a boat; it was rather a
dangerous experiment over the falls. A Russian guided
the little canoe, which he managed with great dexterity.
When once started we proceeded with terrific rapidity,
and on landing he looked at us with pride to think he
had carried us so safely. He said not another man
besides himself would have ventured: this was confirmed
by the people in the village. We returned to Altai
Volost by another route from that by which we came.
It was there we had left our pavoska. We now crossed
the pretty, quiet Yabagan steppe; we stopped at a
Kalmuk aoul, where a sacrifice had been offered up.
The feast was nearly ready, when Mr. Atkinson put an
end to their mirth by proceeding to sketch the priest.
Before leaving the old man took up his tambourine, and
beating loudly on it offered up a prayer, as he said, for
a safe journey back to our native land, but I declared
that it was a thanksgiving that we were leaving. The
poor fellow had a perfect horror at being sketched,
thinking that Mr. Atkinson would ever afterwards have
power over him.

We had with us on this journey to the Katoonia an
old Talmash, who told us we were coming to streams
where there was an abundance of fish, and causing us to
stop earlier than we should otherwise have done; but
we soon found the old man out. At last he came to the
conclusion that great changes had taken place in the
world since he had last travelled this way. To make
amends for the disappointment about fish he would
seek for fruit and flowers to please me, but Alexae put
an end to this one day. Before reaching the Abbaye
steppe, he had gathered me a large branch of currants,
which I was occupied eating, when Alexae rode up, and
giving the poor old Talmash a severe lecture on his
stupidity in indulging me as he had done, turned to
me and said, 'Throw that branch away immediately.'
I was indignant; seeing the colour mount to my cheeks,
he said (I presume thinking I was a spoiled child), 'You
shall have as much as you can eat when we arrive at
the old man's on the Abbaye steppe.' I could not help
smiling. He continued
– 'We have a mountain to cross,
and if the storm overtakes us we shall all be lost, for the
clouds are low on the mountains.' I at last, thinking he
might be right, threw my branch of delicious berries
away, and rode on to join my husband.

We started in the morning, hoping to have a fine
day, but the rain, which had indulged us in a bath for
the last two or three days, commenced pouring in
torrents. We were on the ascent the whole morning; at
length the path became difficult, and the summit was
not reached till late in the day, and then what Alexae
had foreseen came upon us
– we were enveloped in the
thick clouds. It was singular to me, as this was the first
time I had ever been in them. I could scarcely see my
horse's head. They passed by us like thick smoke, and
glad enough was I when we came to the descent and
got below them; I looked back and saw them rolling
on in masses. On arriving at the old man's solitary
dwelling in the Abbaye steppe, it was arranged that
we should spend the night there, but recollecting the
horrors I had met with at Kokshinska, I felt a little
chary about the matter; notwithstanding the pouring
rain, I would much rather have encamped outside.

I had not got my hat off before Alexae appeared in
the room bringing me a large soup-plate of preserves and
a wooden spoon, when, placing it before me, said, 'There's
for thee, now thou mayst eat,' but I was too busy getting
my wet things off, I had not a dry thread on me. The
most extraordinary thing is, that, with all the wetting I
get, I never take cold.

As we had to be up at an early hour the following
morning, I made the bed and lay down to rest before
nine. Sleep is never long in overtaking the tired travellers. How long I lay I cannot tell, but weary as I was
I was awoke by a horrid sensation on my body. I struck
a light to see what it was, when, oh! horrible, my nightdress and the sheets were one black mass of bugs. For a
second I scarcely knew what to do; however, I commenced sweeping the invaders off by hundreds, I might
say thousands.

At last we cleared the place of the disturbers of
our rest. I had just dropped off to sleep when I was
again awoke by the same stinging sensation, and the
same ceremony had to be gone through. An old coat
I had thrown on to the foot of the bed was literally so
swarmed with the nasty insects, that I opened the door
and thrust it outside in despair. I was then obliged to
keep a candle (the only one I had) burning, to enable
me to continue my wholesale warfare. I greeted the
first streak of light with great pleasure, tired though I
was. When the old hunter entered our room he asked
with a profound bow how we had passed the night.
When I told him he calmly said, 'Ah! they never
trouble us; I suppose we are accustomed to them.'

In the early morning we bade adieu to our old friend.
He begged of my husband to present a petition he had
had drawn up to the governor of Tomsk, praying that
he might be allowed to change his residence and build
himself a cottage in another valley, where he desired to
grow corn. We were glad to be of a little service to the
old man for his kindness and attention to us both in
going and returning from the Katoonia.

On this journey Alexae adopted a singular method of
procuring horses. Whenever we required them to be
changed he sent a man forward to the tribe he sought with
his cap, which was mounted on a long stick or branch,
and this was held aloft, the man riding at full speed; it
never failed to procure the animals, as we always found
them ready on our arrival. I asked him why he did this?
His reply was, that Cossacks ever travelled in the service
of the Emperor, or with those under the immediate protection of His Majesty. We have often had occasion to observe the attachment of these wild tribes to His Majesty,
but it rarely happens that their devotion is not abused.

The furs which are collected as tribute are of
the finest kind which can be procured, and are really
of great value, these poor men imagining that they are
received by His Majesty in person, and that he knows
whence and whom they came from. These furs pass
through the hands of many individuals, and each one
substitutes another of an inferior quality, so that when
they arrive at their destination they are of a very different
value to those given by these simple people, who would
scorn to present such miserable articles to His Majesty.

The moon had long risen ere we reached the hospitable Tartar's dwelling, seven versts from Altai Volost,
where we had dined on our way to the mountains. It
was past ten o'clock; the good people were in bed and
asleep, but they were soon roused up, and tea forthcoming. When Alexae brought it in, I enquired if the
men had anything to eat? He said they were all asleep,
being too tired, although they had had nothing since two
o'clock, and, continued he, with a look of pity, 'you must
be very tired.' I said 'No; indeed I am not.' 'Well,'
said he, with astonishment, 'we are men, and accustomed to riding, and you are not; there is not another
lady could have done what you have done! And, now
that the journey is over, I must tell you I have often
wondered how you could go through all you have gone
through.' This was sincere praise, and I can assure
you I felt not a little proud to have merited it.

The following morning, August 26th, we reached
Altai Volost, and then started in the pavoska for
Zmeinogorsk, where we stayed four days at the house
of Colonel Gerngrose, the director of the silver smelting works; he was a former acquaintance of my husband's, and for the first time since my departure from
Barnaoul I slept in a bed. Oh! what a luxury it
seemed to be, and how I enjoyed it.

The journey from Altai Volost was not very interesting, and, moreover, it was rendered worse by
bad horses. We arrived at Kolyvan Lake just as the
sun was rising; I felt anxious to see it, having heard
so much about it. I was greatly disappointed; had I
seen it before Altin-kool, I should most probably have
admired it. It was pretty, and rendered more so by
the rising sun, beautiful I could not call it.

I visited the silver smelting works, which Mr. Atkinson sketched, and has since painted this picture for me,
which I hope you will see. As we were going along
the road to the Zavod, I remarked the cottages of the
workmen, one of which Mr. Gerngrose drew my attention to. He was accustomed, the last thing at night, to
visit the Zavod. Returning home one bitter cold evening, he heard a low moaning, which he fancied came
from one of the cottages; he stopped the driver and
listened; but hearing nothing further, he concluded it
must be the wind, and went home; but the following
morning they came to tell him that a murder had been
committed. Our friend always felt it was a reproach on
his conscience; had he got out of his sledge and gone
to the cottage, he might have saved the poor woman's
life, who had come to an untimely end for the sake of
a little money which she had amassed. Such things
are not of frequent occurrence. To prove the character
of the people, I must tell you, that not until after that
circumstance did they ever have the slightest fastening
to their houses; indeed, even now, during the day, anyone may enter any of the dwellings, it is only at night
that locks are used.

And in Barnaoul it is exactly the same thing. Colonel
Kavanka told me that some short time since there
was not a lock on any of his doors, he had never lost
the least thing from his place, people went in and
out whenever they pleased; but now it is different,
the thieves are hardy enough to enter dwellings, and
walk away with the shubes. One lady in Barnaoul
lost three whilst we were there, and they are rather
costly. In Petersburg we are satisfied to have our cloaks
lined with fox skins and the collar sable, but the Siberian
ladies have them lined with sables; picture to your
mind the cost of a cloak, sables inside and silk velvet
out. It is evident there is no lack of money in Siberia.

On Thursday, September 2nd, all being ready, we
again bade adieu to kind friends, and started for Semipolatinsk. There the police-master took us to see the
different Tartar merchants; they showed us many beautiful things from China. Then we visited a Tarter
school for girls; there were about twenty of them sitting
under a covered balcony, reading in a sing-song tone
of voice. What struck me particularly was that great
pains was bestowed on the children's nails; they are
very long, and died pink.

We now crossed the Irtisch, en route for the great
Kirghis Steppe, but before doing so the custom-house
officers examined our carriage, and then went to see us
across. This was a work of time: first, we crossed to
an island, and then men dragged the carriage over to
another ferry-boat. Altogether we were two hours.
Having got clear of the Tartar village, we had the steppe
before us, over which we must travel. We had now
Cossack horses, a Cossack driver, and two Cossacks as
a convoy, they riding on each side of the carriage;
we were no sooner out of the village, than they
started at full speed.

There was a fine storm of thunder, lightning, and
hail among the hills, but we were galloping fast away
from it. We have since heard that much damage was
done by the hail, that even cattle were killed.

We had a difficult journey to Aiagooz, the rain
rendering the roads almost impassable; at times, it
required eight horses to drag us out of bogs we got
into. On arriving at Aiagooz we found the commander
absent; but we took possession of a room in the house
of the sessedatal.5 Aiagooz is a fortress, but now without guns; the little river of the same name is a clear
stream, running over large stones; on its banks long
grass, reeds, and bushes grow, but no large trees,

We slept this night soundly, and the following
morning were up at an early hour to make preparations for crossing the steppe. It was a busy scene we
beheld from our windows. The Cossacks were moving
about in every direction, and the Kirghis who were to
accompany us were waiting outside, with the horses
and camels, to carry us and our packages across the
desolate steppes. What wild-looking fellows they
appeared, but with a great deal of good nature in the
countenance; their Asiatic costume is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful, the shawls tied round their
waists are by no means to be despised. The gait of
these men is very singular, the bodies appearing too
heavy for the legs; this is occasioned by the number
of kalats each individual wears, they sometimes having
as many as four or five on at a time; the boots likewise are much too short for the foot, the heel is seen
protruding part of the way up the leg of the boot.
Altogether they have an ungainly, rolling walk.

All was bustle and confusion, for the Cossacks, who
were to accompany us to Kopal, entered to assist in the
work of packing. Some of the good ladies of the place
also entered, and advised, before completing our arrangements, that we should discuss the journey over
a cup of tea, feeling assured they would be able to
show the impossibility of my continuing it; they had
heard of the great horrors and miseries endured by
some of the wives of the Cossacks who had but lately
crossed the steppe with their families on their way to
the new fortress. They were convinced I should die
ere I reached the place. I laughed at their fears, and
assured them that it would cause me much anxiety to
be left behind, and, even though they told me that
death would be my lot if I went, still I was firm to my
purpose. You know I am not easily intimidated when
once I have made up my mind. I started on this
journey, with the intention of accompanying my husband wherever he went, and no idle fears shall turn me;
if he is able to accomplish it, so shall I be. I give in
to no one for endurance.

To Aiagooz we had travelled in the pavoska, which we
left in the care of the sessedatal till our return, as we had
to take to the saddle again till we reached Kopal, where
we now are. This journey was very different to the
others I had taken on horseback, being nearly all steppe.

Whilst the men were loading the camels, I was forced
to go and take leave of my new acquaintance, even
though I had passed but one night in the place. It
would be considered an act of the greatest unpoliteness to quit it without calling to take leave of each
individual who had shown me the slightest civility.

The first house I entered I found two ladies in close
communication; from the few words I heard, it was
evident I was the subject of their conversation. The
hostess immediately rose to receive me, but the other
lady took immediate flight, to prepare, as I afterwards
found, for my reception. At her house tea and coffee
were both on the table, the latter a great luxury; it is
both expensive, and difficult of being procured.

Each one had prepared something for my comfort
across these inhospitable steppes, in case of my determination to proceed; one had a bag of succarees (bread)
cut in slices, with salt sprinkled on the top, and dried in
an oven; another had sundry little meat pies; and the
sessedatal, in whose house we were staying, presented me
with an enormous water melon: this was a rare gift, it
having been brought a long distance, none are obtainable nearer than Semipolatinsk. Unfortunately, I am no
amateur of these melons; nevertheless, I accepted it, as I
believed it would probably prove a great boon to Mr. Atkinson, he being but an indifferent water-drinker, whereas
I can ever quench my thirst when there is a river or
stream of any kind to be found, and I always carry a
small drinking-cup in my pocket.

The ladies not having succeeded in detaining me,
assisted me into my saddle; and bidding adieu to all,
we started on our road across the plain. When a little
way off I pulled up my horse, and turned to take a last
look of the good folks of Aiagooz; there was a great
waving of caps and handkerchiefs. Having returned
their salutations, we turned our horses' heads, and rode
off at a rapid pace. Having ridden some four hours,
we came upon a Kirghis aoul, which I stooped to look
at with no small wonder. Two Tartar women, mother
and daughter, both well dressed, came out of one of
the principal yourts to look at us. The younger one
was a very pretty girl, with large black eyes; she excited
both my interest and curiosity. Her dress was composed of striped silk of various colours, in form like a
dressing-gown, and tied round the waist with a magnificent shawl; she had on black velvet trousers and
boots, her hair was braided into a multitude of plaits,
each one of which was ornamented with coins of various
kinds, silver and copper, some even of gold: thus the
young lady carried her fortune about with her; unwillingly I was forced to take my leave of the damsel, as
the aoul where we should pass the night was yet distant.

On arriving at our destination, what a scene burst
upon my view! Herds of cattle were seen in every
direction, men and boys on horseback engaged driving
them towards the aoul, and a still stranger sight,
women busy milking the sheep. The chief came forward to welcome us, and introduce us to the dwelling
which had been prepared for our reception. The leader
of our party had ridden on in advance, so as to have
all ready on our arrival. The yourt had been placed
on clean grass by the side of a stream, and inside the
floor, or rather ground, was covered with magnificent
Bokharian carpets. And here I was to pass the night:
it was perfectly luxurious. Our packages were placed
around the tent, and whilst tea was preparing, I spread
my bearskins and made my arrangements for the night.
Happening to raise my eyes from the occupation on
which I was intently bent, I perceived the voilok was
raised slightly round the yourt, and there was a perfect
gallery of portraits; faces were peering under in every
direction. Finding they were not driven off, several of
them scrambled under and penetrated into the tent,
touching and handling everything within their reach;
but the instant the Cossack made his appearance at the
door with the somesvar, there was a terrible scudding
on all sides to make an escape. The women hold these
men in great dread, but from what cause I could not
ascertain.

Tea being ready, we sat down to partake of the
refreshing beverage; amongst the Kirghis it is not
accompanied by bread and butter as with us, but by
dried fruits, served up on magnificent china plates.
Whilst partaking of this meal, I perceived a poor little
lamb being dragged between the legs of a wild-looking
fellow towards our yourt; before taking the life of the
animal it was brought to us to know whether we considered its appearance quite satisfactory, if not, it
would be set free and another chosen. The moment
the animal is slaughtered, it is immediately dressed for
the pot, in the same manner as the Kalmuks. I
perceived the cauldron was already placed over the fire,
which was burning brightly, to receive the almost living
animal; many anxious faces were sitting around contemplating the preparations for the coming feast.

Not desiring to be present during these culinary
operations, which, from experience, I knew were not of
the most dainty description, we proceeded, meanwhile,
to take a walk along the banks of the stream, for more
than a verst, till we came to a mound, composed entirely of small stones, none larger than a walnut.
Probably beneath this mound reposed the remains of
some mighty chief. We stood examining the spot for
some time, speculating on the kind of death he might
have died, and who the occupant might be who rested
there. We made enquiries respecting the mound we
had just visited, and learned, as we had already surmised, that it was an ancient tomb, but what people
rested beneath they had no idea.

Arrived at our temporary abode, we not unwillingly
took our seats on the carpet, and with our medicine-chest for a table, partook of the exquisitely tender viand
placed before us; but somehow my thoughts would
wander to that dear little black lamb. We had a
number of visitors, who came to watch our mode of
eating. Our slightest movements seemed to interest
them; they looked at us with scrutinising glances.
The tin plates, the spoons, knives, forks, indeed nothing
escaped them; but what struck them most with astonishment was the attention paid me by Mr. Atkinson,
as our sex is looked upon by the Kirghis as so much
inferior to the 'lords of the creation.' It was now our
turn to go forth and watch the Kirghis supping. The
banquet was held in the open air; they were sitting in
circles, the inner one being occupied by the chief and
his followers. Alas! no wife sat near him; she, poor
woman, was amongst the outcasts. There were neither
plates nor knives employed here, the meat was placed
on a board, and each helped himself according to his
rank, the remaining portion being passed to the outcasts whilst the inner circle commenced drinking from
small bowls the liquor in which the meat had been
boiled. This being ended, koumis was brought, accompanied by the pipes; and as we had to rise early, and
the shades of night were drawing on apace, we retired
to our yourt. I found the yourt preferable to a tent,
being both warmer and snugger, and, a greater luxury
still, I was able to dress and undress without being
obliged to kneel, as I had to do in the balagan. As
you may easily imagine, I slept soundly, having already
been two months travelling continually, and the principal part of the time on horseback.

Ere the sun had risen, I was awoke by busy sounds
outside. The voices of men and women coupled with the
barking of dogs, the neighing of the horses, the lowing
of the cows and oxen, and the bleating of the sheep,
were sounds so new to my ear, that I hastily jumped to
my feet to take a peep at what was going forward, but
I was glad to return to my furs, as the morning was
cold, there being a sharp frost, the first we had had.
As there was no time to be lost, I had to hasten my toilet
and packages, so as to be on our way shortly after sunrise.

Before starting, our host entered the yourt to thank
us for having honoured his aoul by passing the night
there. He had one of his people following him with a
long Bokharian carpet, which he presented to me as a
souvenir of my visit. I gave him in return a knife,
with which he appeared greatly pleased.

We now started forward, our party consisting of ourselves, our three Cossacks and five Kirghis, with our
host and his attendants, who intended conducting us
part of the way. I was much interested with our road
this day; there was a succession of the same mounds we
had come upon the evening before. At a distance the
stones appeared in colour of a purple grey, but on a nearer
inspection they were of a deep burnt sienna, and some
were a deep green. We now approached some rising
ground, which afforded an extensive view all around; it
was desolate in the extreme, neither tree nor bush, nor
any sign of vegetable life, nothing but an arid waste.
To the west lay the lake Yak-she-kessil-tooz, shining
like silver. Our road was to the eastward, whither we
directed our course.

After a ride of several hours, we came upon a small
isolated hill, on which were several tombs, some of
considerable size, built of stone, containing large chambers; these tombs appeared to be of very ancient date,
and the stone must have been brought from a great
distance, as none was to be found anywhere near the
spot.

We rode far, and, ere we reached a aoul, night had
closed every object from view. In the middle of the
day we had stopped to partake of a little refreshment.

We slept soundly, and shortly after sunrise were
again in our saddles. Directing our course to the southeast we ascended a low range of hills, having gained the
summit of which a marvellously wonderful scene lay
before us. Turning to the east, rocky mountains rose
up very abruptly, and to the south the eye wandered
across the steppe, which was like a boundless ocean,
with no object on which to rest the weary gaze
– all
was lost in misty distance: no such sight as this was
seen either on the Barabinsky or Yabagan steppes.

Whilst I stood lost in amazement at this, to me, novel
sight, Mr. Atkinson was engaged finding specimens of
copper ore; he then mounted his horse and we commenced looking for water. We had been many hours on
horseback under a burning sun; our eyes were turned
in every direction in search of it, but, alas! none was to
be seen. I was completely parched with thirst. Several hours passed and still no sign of water; at last, I
observed a beautiful lake shining in the distance; to
describe to you the joy I felt is impossible, no words of
mine can give an adequate idea of my feelings.

I urged my horse on. One of the Cossacks rode up
to me to say the beast would give in, if I went at such
speed. I pointed to the water and told him I only
wished to reach that, and then I should be satisfied. He
shook his head and smiled, saying it was no water,
merely a deception. I spoke to Mr. Atkinson; he likewise had been deceived; he, too, thought it was water.
At times it appeared quite near to us, then it seemed
at a great distance, and so this mirage kept tantalizing
us poor thirsty mortals; our lips were black and salt.
At last one of the Kirghis and my husband descried in
the distance a string of camels: in about an hour and a
half we came upon them; they were going for salt, and
had come from Kopal.

I enquired if they had any water, but, alas! they had
not a drop; they, too, were longing for the crystal fluid.
After taking leave of these men we changed our course.
Afterwards we met some Kirghis, who directed us to a
aoul; we rode on briskly and at last really saw a lake
shining in the distance. Oh! the joy I felt at that sight.
I became so excited that when near the yourts I appeared to lose all command over myself and horse; at
this instant he probably saw something to frighten him,
or he might have trodden on a wasp in the grass, or it
might have been the shock that was in store for him;
be that as it may, he swerved on one side and threw me.
I not being at all on the alert or prepared, fell; however,
I caught his mane and held fast to the reins. The
men were off their horses in a trice; all laughed when
they found I had sustained no injury at the way I clung
to my horse; being assisted to remount, we hastened on,
I foremost, and taking my drinking-cup from my
pocket, passed it to one of the men who had come to
meet us, exclaiming sou, sou (water, water), when, oh!
horrible, I was given to understand that this beautiful
shining lake was salt!

I was assisted from my horse, when the women came
forward and brought me some milk, which I drank; it
was but a poor means of quenching my fearful thirst.
I could scarcely credit that the water was too salt to
drink, and sent one of the men to bring me some to
try. Alas! it was too true, it was perfect brine.

The somesvar was prepared with this briny liquid; it
made no tea whatever: we compared it to London milk;
it was a bluish white, Mr. Atkinson drank a little, but it
was useless to try and take it in any shape.

We had some broiled mutton for dinner, and with it
came a large bowl of fat, which, to my disgust, I was invited to drink. We both declined the proffered beverage.
The man stood eyeing us for some time, so I asked why
he did not take the fat away; he then bid the Cossack
enquire whether he might be permitted to drink it if
I would not. You may fancy I readily gave my consent, when he swallowed the whole with much gusto; in
fact, they prefer this to the meat. I observed that
whenever a Cossack put down a plate which we had
used a Kirghis seized it, and, by a method peculiar to
him, made it as bright and clean as if it had been
polished with a leather. After this I never failed to see
my plate washed ere I used it.

We rested at this station but one hour, and at four
o'clock started forward. The people said good water
would be found twenty versts farther on. Our course
was now directly east, in the direction of the Ala-kool.

The steppe was so smooth and level, that we galloped
along at a great speed, but it was far farther than we
were told, for we did not arrive till near nine; there
was no water fit for drinking here
– it was nothing more
than a stagnant pool, horribly dirty; still tea was to be
made with it.

I have not told you who were our companions on
this journey. Of Kirghis there was no limit; they followed us for their own pleasure, or for the sake of the
feast they were sure of having at the next aoul they
reached, as the Kirghis ever slay a fatted sheep
– not
calf
– on the arrival of strangers; indeed, these people
pass the greater part of their time in visiting. Then
we had three Cossacks, our constant attendants to Kopal;
one of them served as Talmash, and was the devoted
follower of Mr. Atkinson; his name was Peter, I surnamed him the Great, for he was one of the most
consummate liars I ever met with; my husband said
not so! he was only a poet; his imagination was certainly of a lively nature, he had an answer for everybody
and a reason for everything. The next was a tall man
and my devoted follower; singularly enough, his name
was Alexae; then there was a young man, whose duty
it was to attend to the Kirghis and ride by the camels;
they were all three wishful of serving us to the utmost
of their power.

After leaving this aoul our way lay over marshy
ground with tall reeds and bulrushes, and then rough
grass growing high above our heads, with a swampy
soil; we travelled versts before we could find a place to
cross; at last it was thought we should succeed. Mr.
Atkinson and a Kirghis went first, they then bid us
follow: we spread ourselves over as wide a space as possible, no one following in the track of the other; we
sank up to the saddle-flaps in the mire, though this
was almost better than we expected; then a man was
despatched for the camels, receiving instructions as to
the best path to take. We all waited to see them safely
over, being anxious about them; they got on very well
till about the centre, when one of them coolly lay himself down, nor could he be induced to move till the
whole of his pack was deposited in the mud. Mr. Atkinson was in a great state of excitement, believing it
to contain his paper, sketches, &c., which would result
in entire ruin to his projects. I enquired of Petroosha
if it was so; he replied with his usual ingenuity, 'No!
lady, they are our things; had they been yours do you
think we should have allowed the camel to sit down?'
However, they were our things, but not the papers. As
an example of this man's mendacity, I must tell you
we were proceeding along, when I missed Petroosha;
in some little time he came up, I observed he was very
loquacious, more so than usual; shortly one of the
Kirghis came up; they invariably came to me when
they had a complaint to make; this man made me understand by signs that Petroosha had been thrashing him;
his nose was slightly grazed, and by his dress it was
evident that he had been on the ground. I turned to
Petroosha and asked him to translate what the man
said; for a moment he hesitated, and then said, 'You
see, lady, he says, we do not proceed so fast to-day as
we ought to, owing to these atrocious Kirghis horses!
and that if we had Russian ones, we should be scampering over the plains like wild people!' Alexae was as
surprised as I was at this declaration, he could no longer
control himself, but started off at full gallop, his peals
of laughter were heard ringing far over the steppe. I
said, 'Petrooska, it is not true.' Looking at me with a
stoical face he replied, 'Ye Bogha Baronae'
– (by God,
madame) 'it is true.' I had no remedy; but in the evening his misdeeds came to light, for Mr. Atkinson found
that the stock of a gun of his that Peter was carrying
had been broken in the scuffle.

On rising on the morning of the 13th we saw for
the first time the snowy peaks of the Alatau shining
like silver against a deep blue sky. It is a day I shall
never forget; we set off at seven o'clock that morning.
I enquired as usual the distance. Peter said forty versts,
Alexae eighty versts; forty or eighty, it did not signify
much
– I was quite capable of doing either, but he said
we must go the whole distance, as there would not be a
drop of water to be had anywhere. Well, we started and
travelled on and on
– no change, no sign of our journey
drawing to a close. About four o'clock, I being very
thirsty, we stopped for a few moments, having been
persuaded by Mr. Atkinson to try the water melon
given to us by the sessedatal at Aiagooz. This was the
first time I had ever tasted one; my thirst was so
parching that it appeared to me the most delicious thing
I had ever tasted in my life. I enquired of the Cossacks how much farther it was to our resting-place, and
was told ten versts; hour after hour I got the same
answer, till, being tired of this, I said, 'I now insist on
knowing the truth. How far are we from the aoul?' his
answer was, 'We do not know.' I then bid him ask a
Kirghis. After some talk, he turned to me and said, 'You
see yonder blue mountain?' 'Yes!' 'Well, it is a little
farther than that.' Mr. Atkinson being an excellent
judge of distance, to my extreme horror, said that it was
between forty and fifty versts. It would have been
useless to have complained, so we cheered up and on
we went.

We had sent forward a Cossack and Kirghis
with instructions to stop at the first aoul and to make
a large fire, that we might find them in the dark.

The sun was now descending fast, tingeing everything
with a golden hue, while the mountains were almost
lost in misty blue. There is little twilight here; as
soon as the sun is down it is dark. We now commenced
looking out for our beacon light, but hour after hour
rolled on, and still none appeared; we now got among
sand hills, made by the wind blowing it up in all
directions; the men kept continually riding to the
summit of these hillocks to look out for the light, but
in vain.

About two o'clock in the morning I said I could not
go farther without rest; I was likewise so cold that I
could scarcely hold the reins of my horse, as there was
a cutting wind blowing from the snow mountains. I
now dismounted, trembling with cold, having nothing
on me but my dress, my warm jacket having been lost
that day by coming unstrapped from my saddle; they
gave me a bear's skin to lie down upon, and my
husband's shube to cover over me. We had about a
pint of rum, which we took with us as a medicine; my
husband would insist upon my taking a little, when I
drank about half a wine-glass full pure, without its
taking the slightest effect upon me, further than I felt
revived. He now sat down beside me; after sitting
about half an hour I began to get warm, I then dozed
off for a few moments, when our guide came to say we
must go on or we should be all lost; without water
the horses could not proceed after the sun rose. I got
up, and felt so much refreshed, that I could go on
again. My husband then fastened his shube around me
with his belt, and got me with some difficulty stuck on
to my horse, for the shube was such an unwieldy
thing; then he tied a bear's skin round himself and away
we went quite gaily, laughing at our singular costumes.
Two hours more passed away, and then I found my
strength begin to fail me. I dismounted and walked
about a hundred paces; I again got on to my horse and
another hour passed over, when I said, 'I cannot sit
my horse longer,' and begged they would go on and leave
me, and if they found water to return and bring me
some. I once more descended and walked a little
distance and again mounted. My husband now held me
by the hand, in the other I kept the reins, but that was
all, I had no power to guide my poor horse. We now
saw a thin streak of light appear on the steppe, and
knew that day was breaking. I heard the barking of
several dogs; no music ever sounded so sweetly in my
ears. I cheered up, grasped the reins of my horse and
rode on quite briskly; and at five, or a little after, we
got to a aoul belonging to a poor Moollah. I was lifted
off my horse by the women and actually carried into
the yourt; they commenced rubbing my hands and
feet, placed cushions and carpet for me to repose on.
I asked for water, but Peter told me it was unfit to
drink.

A fire was soon kindled for us. In this part of the
steppe there is no wood, so the fires are made of camel
or horses' dung, and an excellent one it makes. They
soon prepared us tea, which I tried to drink, but could
not. Having sat with the Moollah till seven, we mounted
our horses and started for the yourt our Cossack had
prepared for us; he had come to meet and guide us to
it; it was about twelve versts farther, and glad enough
I was to get there. I instantly made tea, and ate a
little broiled mutton with it, I then lay down and slept;
when I awoke, the sun was high in the heavens, and it
was too late to think of starting that day, for we had
ridden a distance of a hundred and fifty versts, without
having tasted anything either solid or liquid, with the
exception of the rum and water-melon, neither had the
poor horses received any nourishment the whole of that
time.

In August, a party of Cossacks, on their way to Kopal,
had lost five of their comrades in crossing this part of
the steppe, the heat being so intense, and the want of
water so severely felt; the graves of these poor fellows
had been pointed out to us. It might have been our
case, and most probably you would never have known
our fate; but an all-wise and merciful Creator has
ordained it otherwise, and we were preserved.

If we should be obliged to return by the same way,
I shall dread the journey. The road differs according
to the places where the Kirghis take up their abode,
and they change these with the seasons of the year.
Still I should like to see by daylight the road we
passed over during the night.

From our resting-place we had to travel over one
continued ascent and descent in deep sand, in which the
horses sank up to their knees; we rode on, leaving the
camels far behind, toiling and moaning most piteously.
At length, after six hours' travelling, we arrived at a
steep descent on to the steppe, which lay before us like
a map, with nothing to bound the horizon. There is
something grand, even in contemplating a steppe,
stretching as this does over 3,000 versts; our little
party looked like mere specks on this interminable
waste.

At one time, this place must have been thickly
inhabited, as, not far from a number of barrows, we
crossed over a wide space that had once been irrigated.
The canals still exist; in one channel we found a stream
of beautiful running water; my husband immediately
dismounted to procure me a glass, when he said there
were a number of horse-hairs floating about in it; still
I thought I could take them out, but instead of horse
hairs they were living things, curling and twisting
about like eels; one he succeeded in getting out was two
feet long. I was not greatly disappointed; I had now
learned to know that patience and resignation are
necessary on a journey like ours.

At last the Cossack pointed out to us in the distance
the river Lepsou; I no sooner heard this than I gave
my horse the rein and galloped off as hard as I could go.
I drank freely of it, and I thought it the sweetest water
I had ever tasted in my life.

Mr. Atkinson started off immediately to some pools
of water among the reeds, where he shot some ducks;
on his return, he enquired for the large supply of shot
we had, but it was nowhere to be found; the following
morning the search was again renewed, with no better
result. Mr. Atkinson was greatly annoyed, fearing he
should not be able to procure more.

Peter's poetic talent was again exercised. I was
sitting mending some of our garments, whilst Mr.
Atkinson had again started forth in search of game,
when Peter came and squatted himself down in front
of me, as he usually did when he wished to commence
a conversation. 'Ah!' he began, 'it is a great pity that
shot is lost.' 'It is,' I replied, 'Peter, and very careless
of you, as you ought to have known its value.' 'Well,'
he continued, 'I own I am in fault, and more especially
as it had been confided to my special care. When the
master gave it me he said, "There, Petroosha, there,
there is shot for thee, take it, and treasure it up as
gold, or as thou wouldest thy own life, for it is far
more precious than either," and to think, after all, that
I have lost it!' I said, 'Indeed, Peter, did your master
say all that, could he speak so much Russian?' Not the
least abashed, he answered, 'Ah! madame, it is only when
you are present that he does not speak; but when you
are not there he speaks beautifully; far better than you
do.' With feigned surprise I said, 'Is it possible?' 'By
God it is true!' was his exclamation.

When Mr. Atkinson returned, we had a hearty laugh
at Peter's poetical genius; and I believe it went a long
way to console him for the loss he had sustained.

We reached this place, Kopal, September 20th, after
a journey of thirteen days, two of which were lost by
our staying on the way. How long we shall stop here
Heaven only knows, perhaps the whole winter; if so, we
shall write to Barnaoul, to have all our letters forwarded
to us.

I began this in October, and it is now the 14th
November: you will naturally wonder what has prevented
my finishing it; I am going to tell you. The first two
weeks, what with one thing and what with another, I
never could get time to write; each time I took my pen in
hand I was interrupted, and as for sitting up at nights,
that is out of the question, as nothing in the world can
be got here excepting tea, and we are therefore obliged
to be careful of our candles; and not we alone, but the
Governor, Baron Wrangle, is no better supplied. But
you are already asking what excuse I can make for the
two last weeks. Here I have a little family history to
relate. You must understand that I was in expectation
of a little stranger, whom I thought might arrive about
the end of December or the beginning of January;
expecting to return to civilisation, I had not thought
of preparing anything for him, when, lo! and behold,
on the 4th November, at twenty minutes past four P. M.,
he made his appearance. The young doctor here said
he would not live more than seven days, but, thank
Heaven, he is still alive and well. He is small, but very
much improved since his birth. I shall let him get a
little bigger before I describe him. He is to be called
Alatau, as he was born at the foot of this mountain
range; and his second name Tamchiboulac, this being
a dropping-spring, close to which he was called into
existence. The doctor says the premature birth was
caused by excessive exercise on horseback.

Doubtless, seeing I speak of the doctor, you imagine
we have a competent one here. Far from it, he is but
twenty-three years of age; theoretically he may be
clever, practically certainly not. When my husband
applied to him in my case, he declared he had not the
slightest knowledge of anything of the kind.

The day after my little man was born I got up, and,
after walking about the room and doing a few odd
things, I went to bed again, but the day after I got up
after breakfast, and have been up during the whole
day ever since. I should have written to tell you last
Sunday, but I was too weak, and the post leaves here
only once in the week, and that is on Mondays. I
intend writing by next week's post, I shall then have
more time to give you a description of this place, and
an idea of how we live.

Although it is so long since you wrote to me, I shall
still answer your letter. I wrote to you from Tomsk,
and the letter was taken to the post by a soldier then
in our service; the idea has since occurred to me, that
perhaps he destroyed the letter and pocketed the
money; it has sadly annoyed me. From Tomsk I
wrote also to Mrs. Tate, but as yet I have received no
answer. I despatched the letter in April, and we did
not leave Barnaoul till July, so there was ample time
to have a reply. I fear we relied too much on the
honesty of our soldier, and her letter has met with
the same fate as yours.

I TOLD you in my last letter of our arrival here, but
I had not time to give you a full description of
everything. I said, at night we used to take up our
quarters in what the Kirghis call a yourt. It is like a
round tent formed of a framework of willow, and
covered over with a kind of felt cloth, called voilock; it
is made of wool and camel's hair. The door, or rather
what serves as a door, is so contrived as to roll up or
down at will. The top of the yourt rises in the centre,
which may also be opened, when necessary, either to
admit the air, or give an issue to the smoke. The
fire is always made in the centre, and of course on the
ground, and all around it is covered with voilock, and
over this carpets are spread. Thus in fine weather a
yourt is no despicable accommodation, but Heaven protect you when a bouran, or even a moderately fresh
breeze, arises. Here in Kopal I have been awoke out
of my sleep by the wind, and have expected every
instant the tent would be dashed to pieces. The
hospital, which stands directly opposite our present
abode, when a bouran has arisen, has been completely
hidden from view. These winds carry everything
before them, bricks or anything that comes in their
way: the safest plan, when one arises, is to throw yourself flat on the ground.

One morning, the wind was blowing frightfully. I
hastened to dress and get breakfast over as quickly as
possible; I was, moreover, so cold that I did not know
what to do. A fire was not to be thought of, as the
smoke was enough to blind one (by the way, the Kirghis
suffer fearfully from ophthalmia). I had only got the first
cup of tea poured out, when I was obliged to rush out
of the tent, and precipitate myself into the governor's,
his being larger and stronger than ours. The gust
over, we returned home, swallowed our breakfast, and
placing all our goods and chattels in the middle of the
yourt, we covered them over, and left it to its fate. It
certainly weathered the storm, but it was no longer in
the same place on our return.

Now, I am happy to say, we have a house over our
heads. We have been in it about a month, having
entered it before it was finished, and just one week
before the little fellow was born. I now often think
what would have become of me had we been in a
yourt when I was confined. I believe both I and the
child must have died. I have been sometimes so indisposed, and with such shocking accommodation, that I
really wonder it has not killed me.

Perhaps it will interest you to know how our house is
furnished. We have one chair, the only one in Kopal,
one stool; but we are rich in tables, as we have two; our
bedstead is composed of a few planks placed on two
blocks of wood, with voilock, and then furs instead of a
mattress. Think not we are worse off than others. No!
our house is as well, if not better, furnished than the
governor's, as he has nothing but the voilock to sleep on.

Every time I now hear the wind blow I thank God
with all my heart I am not in a yourt. My two small
rooms appear to me equal to any palace; I feel so
happy in them.

I must now tell you of our reception here. Baron
Wrangle, the governor, was much surprised at seeing a
lady enter, and perhaps also at my appearance, for, to
say truth, I was not very presentable. On our journey
I had mounted camels and bulls as well as horses, but
the last day, having a stream to cross to enable me
to reach a Tartar encampment, I found it too deep to
ford pleasantly, as the water would reach to my waist.
Whilst hesitating what was best to be done, a Kirghis,
who had followed us down the bank, without ceremony
walked into the water, and, placing himself before me
in a stooping posture, patted his back, and signed for
me to mount, which I at last did, and crossed on the
man's back.

We found the Baron sitting cross-legged on a stool,
with a long Turkish pipe in his mouth, a small Tartar
cap on his head, and a dressing-gown, à la Kirghis.
Mr. Loigonoff, the engineering officer, and the topographer, were dressed in exactly the same way. They
all gave us a most cordial welcome: we sat chatting till
a late hour. The tent in which we found the party
assembled was very large, and used as the common
sitting-room; each had a small one for a sleeping apartment, one was allotted to us, and another was used as
a kitchen: thus we formed quite a little colony.

Now I will give you an idea of our culinary resources. First, such a thing as a vegetable is not to
be seen, either fresh or preserved, of any kind whatever;
no butter, no eggs, nothing but meat and rice, not even
milk, and as for bread, it is the coarsest and blackest
I ever saw. Black bread I manage to eat, and have
eaten a great deal; this, however, is the worst I have
ever met with. Even Mr. Atkinson has some difficulty
in swallowing it, and he can do more than I can in
this way, especially when it is an act of courtesy: for
instance, we once entered a Tartar dwelling; tea was
given, but it was brick tea. I sipped, and sipped, and
sipped, at the atrocious compound, till a fortunate
moment arrived when the Tartar's back was turned,
and then I poured the tea on to the ground, but Mr.
Atkinson kept drinking glass after glass, just as if he
enjoyed it. On asking him why he did not decline
taking the horrid beverage, he replied, 'Surely you
would not have me hurt the feelings of the poor man!'
I own my disposition is not so amiable.

If we spend the winter here, and I suppose we shall,
you will have some idea of the comforts we enjoy. It
is very different from Ekaterinburg or Barnaoul; there
not only had we the necessaries of life, we had some
luxuries also.

Still I am sure you would have some difficulty in
finding a happier or a merrier party than we form. At
the end of September and the beginning of October, we
used to take long rides round Kopal, and in the evenings we all assembled in the drawing-room, where our
amusements varied. At times we had a serious conversation, at others a merry one, for the Baron has a fund
of entertaining anecdotes; he has sometimes made us
laugh immoderately. Perhaps I ought to say that the
Baron, like Petroosha, has a poetical genius.

Then we have musical soirées, vocal and instrumental. Mr. Loigonoff, Captain Abakamoff, and myself,
are the audience, and the performers the Baron and
my husband; the latter plays the flute, and the former
the guitar. The evening usually concludes with the
English and the Russian anthem.

And now I must tell you of a ball we have had,
decidedly the first that ever took place in this part of
the world. Having heard that some of the officers'
wives had arrived, I thought it my duty to visit them,
as is customary in Siberia, but was told by our host
that it was needless; and, indeed, he would rather I
should not; that a building was being temporarily
erected, in which he intended giving a ball to commemorate his arrival as governor or priestoff, and
in honour of us, and then I could make the acquaintance of the ladies. To this arrangement I readily
consented.

The house was at length completed, and the invitations sent out for the same day. Having but one dress
besides my travelling one, I drew it forth and looked
with dismay at its tumbled appearance. I had a small
iron with me fortunately, the only one in Kopal, so I
despatched our Cossack to and fro to the kitchen to
have it heated. Thus, with a flannel petticoat for an
ironing blanket, and a box for a table, I managed to
make it decent, and forthwith I commenced my toilet. The guests were bidden for five o'clock, but our
host begged of me to be ready earlier to receive his
lady visitors. In the midst of my dressing a bouran
arose; I was obliged to rush to one side of the tent to
hold it down, my candle was blown out, leaving me in
total darkness. Mr. Atkinson ran outside to call the
men, who were heard screaming and running in all
directions, as the kitchen, with all the delicacies for the
coming feast, was being nearly swept away; at last, with
ropes and beams of wood, it, as well as our tent, was
secured. With some difficulty I got a light, and resumed my dressing; in the meantime, I received three
notes to hasten operations.

Having smartened myself to the best of my ability,
we started; it was only three paces, for all our tents had
been bodily moved to the vicinity of the house. We
found our host in full uniform; he was scarcely recognisable; indeed, he laughed to see himself. Then
there was his body-guard, a Kirghis, by name Yarolae,
the grandest man in the place; he wore a magnificent
new dressing-gown, a splendid shawl round his waist,
and a tall-pointed silk cap, and red boots; altogether
he looked and felt superb.

The room had wooden stools placed round; the
carpenter had been several days busy preparing them,
and at one end of it a few planks were raised from the
ground; these were covered over with a carpet, and
served for a sofa. This being the place of honour, I
was seated here to await the coining guests, who shortly
made their appearance.

Yarolae's bearing was usually calm and dignified,
but hearing the wail of the camel he became quite excited, and giving a caper he said, 'Here they are!' and
made a rush down stairs. He shortly returned, followed
by two ladies; and walking like a prince into the centre
of the apartment, he announced, in a voice like thunder,
'Madame Ismaeloff and Madame Tetchinskoy.' The
contrast between them and the gaily-attired Kirghis
was too striking. The former lady was a soncy-faced
old body, with a bright shining skin, a clean dark-coloured cotton dress, a white collar which reached to
her shoulders, a white cap with a very full border, a
lilac silk shawl, and brown worsted gloves, completed
her attire; her companion, a small person, had a similar
dress, but instead of the shawl she wore a pink satin
mantle, trimmed with white lace. They came up to
me, each giving me three kisses, and took a seat on
either side of me, without uttering a word. Yarolae
was again off; the next visitor was proclaimed by the
roaring of a bull. The door was thrown open very
wide, and 'Anna Pavlovna' was announced. My gravity
was this time sorely tried, and more so as I glanced at
the Baron; his face was irresistible, he went forward to
shake Anna by the hand; her deep-toned sonorous voice
resounded through the room.

She was a tall stout woman, dressed in the Russian
sarafan (peasant's dress) a cotton, of the brightest and
most variegated colours, very short, and round the
bottom it was edged with pink, about two inches deep;
a pair of good strong shoes, with nails, and no stockings,
and bound round her head was a red cotton handkerchief; as you may imagine, she was gloveless; but what
an arm and hand she had! big enough to knock down
anyone who approached her ungraciously. But her
face was beaming with smiles and good nature; she, too,
came forward like the others, and bowing down low,
saluted my cheeks three times, and then took her seat.

I certainly did not expect to see ladies of the first
fashion; but I was not at all prepared for what I did
see, as the husbands were gentlemen. Again the
moaning of the camel was heard, and another announcement, which was the last, of the ladies. These two
were from Bisk, and had more pretensions than the
others. Madame Serabrikoff had on a woollen dress,
and the other a faded green silk, with a patch in the
skirt, of another colour; this latter visitor found means
during the evening of telling me that she had not
expected the ball to take place so soon, otherwise she
would have had her polka ready to wear; it was a
beautiful blue satin, which had been presented to her
on leaving Bisk.

Tea, coffee, and chocolate were handed round by
Yarolae. The gentlemen assembled, and then came the
musicians. We had a drum, two violins, and a fife; for
the past fortnight they had been daily drilled by the
Baron, in an attempt to teach them a polka. The ball
opened by a polka danced by our host and myself.
Afterwards we had quadrilles, in which my friend Anna
Pavlovna was delicious, but in the Russian national
dance she shone. Her great joy was to induce my
husband to dance with her; his doing so certainly
added to the merriment of the evening, and, in spite of
her strange costume, she was, with the exception of
Yarolae, decidedly the most graceful person in the room.

At the commencement of the entertainment the ladies
sat bolt upright, each trying to look more stately than
her neighbour; their voices were scarcely heard above
a whisper, until the spirit, which at first they were
rather coy of touching, had enlivened them; then their
tongues were loosened, and oh! how they did run on.
I reproved the Baron for offering it to the ladies; his
reply was, 'I know my company.' The gentlemen were
not backward in imbibing their potations; those who
did not dance played cards, and at each shuffle all but
the dealer rose to do honour to the abominable spirit.
Supper was placed on the tables at eight, and a little
after ten all had taken their departure, unable to stay
longer. We remarked that it was our host's own fault
for pressing them to drink; he answered, 'You do not
understand society in this part of the world, but I will
enlighten you. To-morrow, if you could enter the
abodes of these people, and listen to their private conversation, you would hear them say what a delightful
evening they had passed; whereas, if I treated them
as in more polished society, they would be dissatisfied.
And the sooner I render them in the state they like
to be, the quicker I am rid of them; and now,' said he,
'let us have our supper.' He then resumed his Kirghis
costume, and perching himself on his stool commenced
a merry air on his guitar, delighted at having rid
himself of his guests so quickly.

The effect of Chinese spirit is of a peculiar nature.
One of the ladies told me, at day-break it was customary
for her husband to rise and open the window to see the
kind of morning, when the air, after drinking Chinese
brandy, produced the same effect as if he had only just
taken it, for he commenced dancing and cutting all
kinds of capers at the open window.

It was in the latter days of October that we entered
our present abode, and I was occupied sewing lambs'
skins together for a warm jacket for me to cross the
steppe. It had been our intention to return to civilisation, when our plans were put an end to by the
unexpected arrival of the little stranger, on the 4th
November. It was fortunate my husband was at home:
he had returned only the evening before, having been
absent two days on a shooting expedition. The birth
of my little fellow was a grand event in Kopal; several
children had been born within the last month, but not
one survived; several had been born on the journey
across the steppe, but all died; mine was the only one
which lived.

I do not know what I should have done had it not
been for the attentions of Madame Tetchinskoy. During
the night the bouran was so terrific that not a sound
scarcely could be heard within doors. I never closed
my eyes during that night; my heart was lifted up in
thankfulness to the Creator for all His mercies to me.
Had this event occurred one short week earlier, and
on such a night, what should I have done? The child
was enveloped in furs and placed on a leathern trunk
against the stove to keep him warm; the woman was
stretched on the floor wrapped in a sheep-skin. I lay
on my bed, hearing the poor infant, when there was a
moment's lull in the storm, moaning. I screamed to the
woman to give the poor little thing to me, but not a
sound did she hear; at last, after about two hours I
managed to awaken her, and make her understand; she
took up the poor babe, and poking it at me like a
bundle of straw, down she was again immediately; the
instant the child touched me, it ceased its moaning.
They had placed in its mouth a piece of muslin, containing black bread and sugar dipped in water, and,
indeed, this was all he had till the third day, when he
received his natural food.

You will ask who and what was this woman who lay
in my room. She had been condemned to receive a
hundred lashes for destroying her infant ere it saw the
light, and probably at this moment she would not have
been alive had not a Cossack come forward and offered
to marry her before she had undergone the sentence,
and he received fifteen lashes instead of her
– such is the
law. They are living very happily together: to judge
from all I have seen, she is a very kind woman, willing
to oblige when she can.

On our road hither we were followed by a large dog,
a very fine creature, with a brown skin marked like a
tiger; his ears are beautiful, long, and quite black.
Evidently he had been ill used; his mouth was in a sad
state; apparently, it had been bound with a rope, there
was a wound all round the muzzle. After many trials,
he at last allowed Mr. Atkinson to anoint it with
ointment, which he did daily for some time; it was
shortly cured, and the poor beast's gratitude was unbounded; I never saw any animal love its master as this
one does. Some one stole him from us, and tied him
up with a thick rope, but he broke loose and came
home with the rope round his neck. Last week, however, he started off in the morning for the mountains, but did not return at night, as usual. Three days
we watched for his coming, and became alarmed; the
third night I was aroused from my sleep by a noise at
the door, I awoke my husband, saying I thought it
was the dog; he got up, and opening it, in he walked,
making a most tremendous rattle and clatter. He had
been stolen again; but the poor fellow had again
broken away, and came home with an immensely thick
long chain dragging after him
– even iron is not strong
enough to keep him away from his master; but I fear
they have got our other dog Jatier quite away from us.
She has been absent about a fortnight.

What think you of our dog's name? he is called
Alatau! and our Cossack distinguishes him from the
baby by calling the latter Gospodeen (Mr.) Alatau.

Whilst on the subject of dogs, I may tell you an
anecdote of one of ours. We have, or rather had, five.
Mme. Jatier is (or was) the favourite, and allowed to
sleep in a corner of the yourt, or enter it at pleasure;
she was fed first; in one word, held a distinguished
position. One day Mr. Atkinson was away on a hunting excursion, Alatau accompanying him; it was a few
days after our arrival in Kopal. The task of feeding
them in his absence fell to me. I had soup made; when
it was brought, I fed one at a time, Jatier naturally
first. One day, as she did not answer to my call, I fed
Appoleck; before he had dined, Mme. Jatier returned,
and wished to drive him off, but this I would not permit, so we had a grand scuffle. After dining, he walked
away in a very orderly manner. I then offered her her
dinner, but she sulked and would not have it. When I
called Ashara, another lady, there was another battle
between us; but I was firm. Ashara finished, I once
more offered her her dinner, but no, she would not
approach, so I called Actigoon
– she was more furious
than ever, but I kept guard. When all were finished,
I once more offered it, but she would not come near; I
indulged her in a clean plate, and not till then did she
consent to eat. I afterwards seated myself on the carpet
in the yourt, with my sewing; a little later Jatier entered,
and, as she did not come and lie at my feet, as usual, I
fancied it was one of the other dogs had dared to enter,
and looked round, when there stood Jatier certainly,
but scarcely recognisable
– she was literally one mass of
mud; of her glossy black coat not a speck was visible;
there she was, wagging her tail, and looking as impertinently as possible. I was angry, and getting up
from the ground and taking my whip, said, 'You dirty
creature, how dare you come here!' but, before I reached
her, she was off like a shot, and, by the time I was outside the tent, she was racing far over the steppe. Not
many minutes afterwards she returned, looking as clean
and glossy as ever; this time, she came without a word,
and took her accustomed place.

I maintain that she was fully aware of my horror of
dirt, and had rolled herself in the mud purposely to
annoy me, because I had not waited for her to dine
first. The creature stood staring at me instead of
lying down, and, when I took the whip, she knew, because she had seen me whip the other dogs, but never
fled when I did so, but stood calmly beside me; it was,
moreover, the first time I had ever seen a speck of dirt
on her coat, and she must have gone some little distance, as there was no mud anywhere near.

I will give you another instance of their sagacity.
When in Bisk, Colonel Keil lent Mr. Atkinson a dog,
which he said was excellent for birds
– her name was
Calypso
– she was a great coward, having a thorough
dread of the water, which she had to encounter many
times on our way to Altin-kool.

As I before stated, Jatier was indulged and used to
sit in the balagan by the side of her master, and Calypso
at a respectful distance without. It happened, however,
one day that Jatier gravely offended her master, so he
gave her a thrashing, whereupon she deemed it prudent
not to come too near. Calypso, who had observed all,
but sat perfectly still, now stealthily approached her
master, and, finding she received a caress, took courage,
and walking round him, seated herself in Jatier's place.
The tables were turned, and Jatier was dishonoured.
Happening to look up from my tea, I saw Calypso
screwing up her nose, and making grimaces at Jatier:
I make no doubt but they thoroughly understand each
other. Poor Calypso's reign was of short duration, for
Mr. Atkinson, never long angry with any animal, once
more caressed his favourite. No sooner had he done so,
than she entered the balagan, and gave Calypso a
thorough thrashing, as if she had been the cause of her
disgrace, and then drove her out, and reinstated herself
in her former position.

My letter will appear to you a very strange one, all
in detached pieces, but you must excuse it, for my
occupations are of so varied a nature, that I find it
difficult to collect my thoughts for letter-writing.

Since I left you in February last, I have travelled in
a carriage 6,267 versts, on horseback 2,040, in boats
and on a raft 760. This is the distance we have gone
in the direct road; but I have done much more,
having been on several excursions on horseback; for
instance, the very evening after our arrival here, we
went on a trip of 17 versts.

This year my husband has travelled 10,705 versts in
a carriage, 2,290 on horseback, and 1,490 in boats,
exclusive of divers excursions for sketching of 40 or 50
versts distance; so, you see, the ground we have gone
over is immense:
–

WE have been much amused, on reading your letter,
at the proposition you make, of our sending to an
adjoining town for a bed. Koolja, the nearest, is a
Chinese town; what they possess there in the shape of
beds I do not know. Spirit I know they have, for
Yarolae has been often for it; but to a Russian town,
we should have to send 1,000 versts there, and the
same distance back; therefore, we had a hearty laugh
over your letter. My hope is, that I shall never be
worse off than I am at present. A hard couch and
hard fare I am accustomed to. Many a good lesson
have I learned on this journey, and one is, how little is
required to nourish our bodies.

On our first arrival here I was dainty; but all this is
passed. The only thing I cannot bring my mind to eat
is horseflesh, though we have eaten it many a time
unknowingly. One of the things I enjoy more than
anything else is rice, which I invariably refused on our
arrival, on account of its dirty appearance; but now,
after scraping off the outside, I really enjoy it, as you
would also, were you deprived of every kind of vegetable.

One day the Baron, seeing me busy removing the
dirt from the rice, asked if I had been in the kitchen;
to my reply in the negative, he said he thought perhaps
I had seen what he had that morning. On going to
speak with the cook (a soldier), he observed the rice on
the table, well washed, and looking beautifully white,
and beside it a horrible-looking cloth. He demanded of
George what that was; 'a clout,' he replied; 'but what
clout?' said the Baron; 'to boil the rice in.' But he questioned further about the clout, and at last drew from
him that it was a 'foot-binder,' literally, the rag which
the peasantry as well as soldiers wrap round the feet
instead of stockings!

After this éclaircissement we had cleaner rice, for
George, under dread of the birch, had to bring each
morning the pudding-cloth, to undergo a critical examination. Scarcely a day passes without the poor
fellow receiving some two dozen strokes of the birch;
dirty though he is, I always feel sorry for poor George.

A story is told in Kopal, that the poor fellow is
accustomed to go to the guard-house, when dinner is
over, to receive the birch (that being his most leisure
time). He once presented himself; on being asked
what he wanted, he said he had come to be whipped;
he was told that no orders had been given about him,
and that he had better go home, but he would not, and
begged earnestly of the guard to give him the rod. They
steadfastly refused; he said, with tears in his eyes, that
he was sure he deserved it. He did not wish to have
the trouble of returning, as he had supper to prepare; he supplicated so earnestly for them to comply
with his request, that, to be rid of his importunities,
they yielded to his wish.

Right glad am I to tell you that winter is passed,
and spring with all its charms is here. All Nature
looks smiling and lovely. In February I was gathering
wild flowers on the steppe, and in the sheltered nooks
of the mountains. During winter we were complete
prisoners; now, again, we walk or ride daily. It was
mournful, in the miserable cold weather, to witness so
many poor creatures being carried to their last home.
The hospital is directly opposite our windows, so that
we see all that is going on. The fine weather is a relief
to everybody; it also brings visitors from the Kirghis.
Amongst the most frequent is old Sultan Souk. Many
an hour does he pass in our rooms, and one of the great
attractions is a small travelling looking-glass. He
goes into my bed-room, where it hangs against the wall,
and stands for an hour or more, making all kinds of
grimaces, and laughing loudly; it is probably the first
time he ever saw his own face. He sadly wished to
persuade me to present it to him; he coaxed me out of
a pair of scissors, and took them to his armourer, who
made others from them
– the first that were ever manufactured in the steppe. They were given to the Baron,
who promised them to me, but, learning that we thought
them a curiosity, he retracted, I presume, for I never received them. Another attraction for the old gentleman
was the child; indeed, Kirghis came from far and near to
see him; one Sultan sent a follower of his a distance of
200 versts for some smoked mutton for the child to eat
when he was six weeks old.

All the people are introduced into our rooms by
Yarolae. When it is any fresh arrival, he marches with
great state into the apartment, and, motioning for them
to take a seat on the floor, he hands Mr. Atkinson his
flute, saying, in a commanding tone (egraï), play. He
imagines he is doing a great service to him in making
his talent known.

Then there is an examination of all the little articles
we have lying about. One Sultan was so much struck
by a pair of gloves belonging to Mr. Atkinson, that he ran
out of the room, with them on, to show to his followers.
On his return, I, knowing my husband would not like
to wear them after they had been such a lengthened
period on his hands, signed to him that he might keep
them; he retired, but shortly returned with Yarolae,
who translated, that if I wished to present anything to
him, a towel would be more acceptable. To satisfy
him I gave him one, and took the gloves back, intending to present them to some one else; on my leaving
the room for a moment, and coming back, I found the
Sultan and gloves had both vanished.

On Sunday, February 6th, for the first time in my
existence, I felt the shock of an earthquake, than which
nothing is more singular. I was up and dressing at
the time, when I heard a noise as if heavy artillery was
approaching; for a second, such was my idea, but it
quickly vanished when I felt the rocking to and fro
of the little building in which we were.

The Baron's poetical genius was once more aroused,
for he came running into our room shortly afterwards
to know if we had felt the shock, declaring he was fast
asleep, but was awoke by being shook out of his bed.

As it was impossible to leave Kopal and travel in the
upper regions before May, we varied the monotony of
our lives by short excursions into the mountains, where
a yourt was sent with all the provisions we should
require for the day. One trip we made was to a
mineral spring, on the banks of the Kopal, high up in
the mountains; we found it up in a small ravine, three
or four hundred feet above the river, among dark marble
rocks. A bath had been constructed here, perhaps ages
ago, as it was now nearly filled up with stones, the
water was quite warm to the hands. We bathed the
child in it, and, singularly enough, since then, a roughness he had on his skin from his birth is now quite
vanished.

Another change
– Easter with all its festivities arrived. For many days it was one round of pleasure; each
of the officers gave a ball similar to the one I have
described.

On Easter Sunday we had a visit at nine in the
morning from all the officers, and the more youthful
of the ladies. Each of the gentlemen carried his stool
with him, knowing full well that we had but two seats
in our place; they had also the mover of the fun with
them (viz., the brandy), as that was another article
they were sure of not finding with us. The musicians
followed, the room was cleared in an instant, and a
dance struck up, when, although the hour was an early
one, all joined right merrily; they then seated themselves,
and the bottle passed round. Afterwards came another dance, and off they went to the Baron's, inviting us to follow. I was amused at a new-comer asking
me if I knew how to dance the 'rococo.'

On Easter eve a Cossack came to me, begging I
would lend him my watch, that they might know to
a moment when twelve o'clock struck. I did so willingly, but regretted when I learned the following day
that they had, with Ismaeloff at their head, erected a
little shed, no church yet being constructed, in which
divine service had been performed, as I should have
liked to have been present. The man returned me my
watch quite safely, expressing great gratitude that I
had allowed him to have it. It afforded us pleasure to
be of the slightest service to these men, they were
always so good-natured and willing. Scarcely a day
passed without one or the other coming, as our medicine chest was in great demand; they had more faith
in us than in their doctor.

There was one circumstance connected with the
medicine which amused us when we discovered it. On
leaving Zmeinogorsk, Colonel Gerngrose had supplied
us with a gallon of spirit and cayenne, which had been
prepared in large quantities in the Zavods, by order of
the Emperor, in case of cholera breaking out, to rub
the patient with. We carried it with us to Kopal; none
of our party having been attacked, it remained sealed
up. One day the Baron's laundress came to say her
husband's legs were bad; they thought he had taken
cold, and he was suffering much pain. I consulted Mr.
Atkinson, and then told the woman her patient had
better go to the bath, and, when very warm, rub his legs,
with the spirit which I gave her. After this there was
no end of such symptoms; indeed, this medicine was
more in request than any other. I heard that Mr.
Tetchinskoy was ill; so I started off to visit the sick
man. I found him moaning and groaning fearfully from
inward suffering. I proposed sending him a little peppermint; but he declined taking it, and asked if I had
nothing else. I replied in the negative. After much talking, he said he had heard that I had spirit and cayenne,
and he fancied that would cure him. 'What,' I said,
'drink it! why, it will kill you to swallow it.' He then
informed me that he had taken it several times without
injury. I now saw clearly the reason why so many
applications had been made for it.

I accompanied my husband from Kopal on several
of his excursions for the purpose of sketching the
beautiful scenery, all of which I shall leave him to
describe, except the spring whence our son takes his
name. The Tamchiboulac, which in Kirghis means a
dropping well, breaks out of a gravel bed about seven
feet below the surface; the rocks form a semicircle, and
over the whole surface the water is seen dropping like
brilliants, to collect in a rocky basin at the bottom,
from which it runs in a considerable stream over fallen
rocks to the Kopal. At the top large plants are growing, some hanging over in very picturesque masses: it
is an enchanting spot.

We went on a short journey into the mountains,
which are on a grand scale, many of them covered with
eternal snow. We saw in one part, on the edge of a
great precipice, a perpendicular face of snow, not less
than a thousand feet high. This appeared to have
been broken off by some great convulsion, as huge
masses of rock were heaped up in the utmost confusion
at its base. Just fancy how many ages have elapsed
since this mighty mass began to form.

As travellers are generally accused of exaggeration,
perhaps it may be necessary to tell you that nothing
of the kind shall enter into the account of our journey.

During our ride on Sunday, May 1st, we passed a large
tomb, about twenty-five feet high, formed of rough
stones, on which horse-tails, hair, rags, and other
offerings were placed by Kirghis, who hold this tomb
in great reverence. They have a tradition that it is
the grave of a mighty Kalmuk chief, a king who
ruled over his subjects with so much justice and wisdom, that he is still permitted to watch over those who
inhabit the kingdom.

About fifty versts farther on we descended into the
valley of the Karatal, which has been the theatre of
great events, and the scene of numerous battles. In
many parts of the plain we found tombs in which hundreds may have been buried. They are of great magnitude, and afford matter for much speculation.

To the west of this rises a moderately high hill, on
which, ages ago, the great Lama resided. The foundation of his dwelling and that of a temple are still to
he seen, now only shapeless masses of stone. Not far
from these ruins we met with an old Moollah, whose
acquaintance we had made in Kopal, and who spoke
tolerable Russian; he gave us tea and fruit, and treated
us most hospitably. Mr. Atkinson says this man has
more influence in the steppes than the Archbishop of
Canterbury has in his diocese.

Our conversation turned upon religion, and his ideas
of Christianity were rather curious. He says that our
clergy are all impostors, and the doctrines they preach
nothing but humbug; that everything they do is for
gain, and not for the love of God, whom they reduce
to the state of man, when they tell you He made this
world in six days, and was then so tired that he was
obliged to sleep on the seventh.

The Moollah says God can create in a moment. He
has not to work like a cobbler for ten or twelve hours
a day. What would our divines say to this?

When it was known we should leave Kopal at the
end of the month, we had farewell visits from many
of our Kirghis friends. Amongst the foremost was the
old Sultan Sook, with whom I was a great favourite,
who bade me tell my husband not to fatigue me so
much by taking me with him the next time he visited
the steppe, as he would give him any number of wives
he liked; at the same time, he should always be
pleased to see me.

The reason why I had gained favour with the old
man was, that the Kirghis always think highly of a
woman who can use her needle, and Yarolae had trumpeted forth my fame. I had been busy manufacturing
a little hat out of a small piece of red merino, for the
child to wear on his journey. I had in my work-box
a little silk, so I embroidered it and placed an eagle's
feather in front; and when completed it did not look
ugly. Yarolae was enchanted, particularly with the
broad brim; I presumed because he was fond of the
child, whom he often used to take for a promenade,
or to show to any new-comer, holding him as gently
as I would do myself: but what was my astonishment
when this great big man begged of me to give the hat
to him! I refused. He came several days in succession. At last, I asked my husband to cut me another
piece of pasteboard and I would make him one, if I
could find sufficient cloth. When Yarolae heard this
his joy was unbounded, he scarcely left my side. I
made it perfectly grand by decorating it with beads
and earrings, and when it was finished he walked off to
the Baron, begging for permission to wear it. His
master told me I had done him an ill service, as Yarolae
was now never at home; for he had procured a horse,
and was riding through the town every day displaying
the magnificent acquisition to his toilette.

Our preparations for departure will not take long; our
great drawback is flour. We have been able to buy only
two poods (72 lb.). Another pood was sent to us by one
of the officers, who could ill afford to part with it; moreover, he is not rich, and will not accept any remuneration, further than some candles which were sent to us,
previously to the arrival of which we had been obliged
to follow the example of the birds, that is, go to roost at
dusk. The flour before starting we shall have made into
sucarees; it is but a small quantity for three months'
journey.

I do not believe that I have given you any idea of
our domestic servants. Women are not to be had; indeed,
there is much difficulty in hiring one to wash the floors.
Madame Tetchinskoy has a Kirghis, and the Baron is
served by the daughter of a Cossack, the remainder of
the work being performed by men. From my knowledge of the female sex in this part of the world, I am
rather thankful than otherwise that they are not to be
had; they are a strange as well as a dangerous set to
have anything to do with. The Baron was nigh being
poisoned by his Abigail, who had conceived a deep passion
for him, and who, being a Cossack's daughter, considered
herself noble, and worthy of aspiring to become his
bride. He not responding to her love, she prepared a
most noxious love-potion for him, after drinking which
he would become so enamoured of her, that he would
never be able to live without her. Fortunately, it was
discovered in time; she received a severe reprimand
and was banished the house. Yarolae went farther, for
he gave her a good thrashing, and threatened, if ever
she came again, she should have the whip.

The Kirghis young lady, Miss Soundook, Madame
Tetchinskoy's maid, was beloved by a Kirghis youth in
the Baron's service, by name Adiyol. The young lady
responded to his love, and all went on well; but it is said
'the course of true love never did run smooth.' One
day Adiyol's tchimbar (wide trowsers) could nowhere
be found; as he was dressed at the Baron's cost, a strict
search was instituted. Yarolae became anxious, fearing
the Baron might implicate him, and the more so, as he
had been the first to discover that Adiyol was minus the
tchimbar. The youth had been questioned, but nothing
could be elicited from him as to their whereabouts; he
declared he knew nothing of them.

One day, Yarolae being in the town, perceived Miss
Soundook wearing the identical tchimbar. It was the
work of a moment for him to alight from his horse and
seize her; she struggled violently, but he being a powerful man, and with apparently few scruples, laid her on
the ground, and, divesting her of them, carried them
home in triumph. It appeared that Adiyol had left
them with his mistress, intending to redeem them by
some other love-token at a future period. It was the
cause of a quarrel between the lovers, she believing
her betrothed had been mean enough to take back the
present he had made, and had bribed Yarolae to do so
for him.

Another person I must not neglect to mention is the
Baron's laundress. Her husband, a Cossack, and really a
fine-looking young man, from being very healthy, suddenly became sickly; and his comrades, amongst whom
he was a favourite, were all sorry for him, fearing he
might die, as so many had done. One day a workman,
happening to fall asleep in a building they were constructing within the fortress, was awoke by the sound
of voices; he listened, and heard the laundress in connection with a Cossack, plotting a most diabolical
scheme for ridding herself of her husband, the poison
she was giving being too slow. After they left, the workman crept out stealthily to be quite sure he had made
no mistake, and observed the two conspirators going off
in different directions; he went immediately, and gave
information to the Baron. Two Cossacks were despatched
in quest of her; she was placed in prison, and a guard
set over her.

The following day she was tried and convicted of the
crime of attempting to poison, and condemned to
receive the birch, fifty rods to be applied by the husband, who had been sent for and was present during the
trial. The sentence was promptly put into execution
inside the prison, two Cossacks holding her; afterwards
she was placed on a bull and drummed out of the
fortress, the husband taking charge of her.

You see this was no love-potion, but really a case of
poisoning. What displeased me in the affair was, her
accomplice was not tried, nor any punishment whatever awarded him: it was not even-handed justice.

Thus I am fortunate in being surrounded by the
male sex alone; indeed, I am the only female who sleeps
within the fortress.

I must now think of closing this letter, as preparations for departure must be attended to. We are now
about to wander in the stupendous mountain-chains
which I have been looking at for months from my
windows. I shall not fail in my promise of giving you
an account of any little incident that may take place,
that is, if I am not made prisoner by some of the tribes
we may meet with. I may be taken for a Kirghis,
stolen from some distant aoul and disguised in, I will
not say European, but an unknown costume. I look
as scraggy and almost as haggard as any of their own
beauties; I am nothing but skin and bone; scarcely a
pound of flesh left on me, nor is my husband one whit
better. I often think, could we be carried on the
shoulders of an efreet and deposited in the streets of
London, what would the people think of us?

Before closing, I will tell you of a walk I took today across the steppe to a little sheltered valley, where
I now go daily to gather sweet wild flowers. I was
more than a mile from the fortress, wending my solitary way, lost in thought, the baby dozing in my arms,
when I was suddenly recalled to my senses by an enormous snake rearing itself up in an erect position, and
making a loud and prolonged hissing, about two yards
in front of me. You may guess that I quickly recoiled.
Had the reptile not reared itself, it might have bitten
me, for I never saw it; I looked around for a stick to
strike the brute with, but nothing was to be seen. I
did not feel inclined to let it go free, so cast my eyes
around for somebody, when luckily I saw a man on
horseback. I hallooed as loud as I could; it was a vain
effort, I might have remained silent. The man was
going in the direction of the mountains. I watched
him for some time, and when he at length looked
about, I beckoned him to approach. He instantly came
galloping across the plain, and proved to be a Cossack.
When near enough, I enquired whether he had a whip.
He looked vastly surprised at the question, but answering
in the affirmative, I said, 'Will you kill me that serpent?'
He was off his horse in a trice, and not long afterwards it lay dead, he swearing at it all the time;
I suppose it did not sound so bad, being in Russian. One day we saw no less than five of these
venomous creatures playing and basking in the sun; as
we drew near, they popped into a hole they had. The
male portion of our party alighted, and shot into the
hole, no doubt killing them. A little farther on were
several more; some they killed with their whips, others
escaped. They searched in all directions, but could not
find them. I cannot say they are pleasant neighbours.

SINCE last writing to you, many a hard day's toil
have I endured. There were mountains to ascend
and descend, rivers to swim, hunger and thirst, heat
and cold to suffer, and still I have survived all. I am
not yet, as you imagined, dead. The idea of your
writing to Colonel Sokoloffsky, to know whether we had
gone to the land of spirits, amused me. No! we are
still cumberers of this earth, and I trust we shall be
so till you and I meet once more. The art of writing
is a great boon to us, and I often bless the discoverer
of it; as by our pens we are able to convey to those far
from us some of our thoughts and feelings. Still, in
comparison, how little it is we can say of all that happens to us. There are times when the events of a single
day are sufficient to fill a volume; and then it is so much
easier for me to talk than to write; still, I will do my
best in endeavouring to make you acquainted with all
that has taken place during the past six months, whilst
we are here in Barnaoul, as we shall not leave till the
spring. We have still far to wander; we shall visit
Irkoutsk and the regions round about, so that it will
be some time ere you see me.

Four of your letters reached me at once in Zmeinogorsk, one near a year after its date; and my husband
received one from England, which is also an old one:
but it could not be otherwise, as no letters could have
reached us on our journey. As yet, the Kirghis do not
understand the value of a post, nor do they condescend
to write letters; all their communications are verbal,
and delivered in a tone of voice that would startle you;
as the louder the noise is, the greater mark of respect
it is considered. I will at once plead guilty to your
charge of not writing, and try to do better this winter;
but I may add that in summer it is really impossible to
write, or, rather, to send letters to you. Nevertheless I
cannot plead guilty to the charge some of my friends
make against me, of saying little about Alatau. I think
my letters must have miscarried.

Many and various were the questions my friends here
had to ask about the child; they are all amused at his
name. Madame Sokoloffsky says the fable is now
reversed: that instead of 'a mountain bringing forth
a mouse,' it is a mouse who has brought forth a
mountain.

None of our friends expected to see him. Whilst in
Kopal, they sent me a tiny counterpane and a jacket.
It appears they had arranged to make him a little
trousseau, knowing I could procure nothing where I
was; but they reflected that he could not possibly live,
and forbore carrying out their good intention, believing
these little articles would only be a source of pain and
regret; but, thanks to the Giver of all good! I have
carried him safely. He is a hardy little fellow, and a
more healthy one it would be difficult to find.

All are interested in knowing how I managed to
clothe him. At first it was difficult. When asked what he
was to be wrapped in, I, after a moment's thought, bid
them take his father's shirt. My friends here laugh,
and say I could not have done a better or a wiser thing,
as it is one of their superstitions, that if a child is
enveloped in its father's shirt it is sure to be lucky; and,
I having done so accidentally, he will be most fortunate,
and rise to great riches! I have had to tell them that
I fabricated two small caps out of a piece of muslin the
first day I sat up
– one for night, and one for day. The
following day I began two night dresses, which are day
dresses also, out of a dressing-gown of mine; and an old
shirt of his father's I turned into little shirts. This completed his wardrobe.

At half-past four he was bathed, at five he was in
bed, when I turned to and performed the duties of a
laundress, as mine could not take the things twice in
the day to wash; between six and seven in the morning
he had another bath and clean clothing, and, that taken
off, underwent the same process, and was made ready
for night. In Kopal they considered me very silly for
washing so often, saying once in two days was quite
often enough to change: but the maxims of a mother
are not easily forgotten; and mine had so instilled into
my mind the necessity of cleanliness in my youth, that
I determined to follow her injunctions. And, believe
me, I am well repaid for my trouble, by the health of
my child; he has never given me one day's uneasiness,
nor one restless night, since his birth.

Just before starting from Kopal, I bought from a
Tartar a piece of Chinese silk, of which I composed a
travelling dress for my little man, and lined the coat
with dabi (unspun cotton). Whilst sewing the silk, I
was in a fearful state from the dye. The idea of
dressing the child in anything of the kind was not to
be thought of; after fretting myself for a moment, I,
to my husband's astonishment and horror, got a vessel
of water and plunged the whole piece of silk into it.
After passing through about fifteen waters, it came out
far prettier than when I bought it; true, it was flimsy,
but it was now clean and glossy, and certainly most
serviceable has it been. Such articles as these are
brought from China, to be disposed of to the poor
Kirghis.

On the second day after the child's birth, Madame
Tetchinskoy asked if I should like a bath. I was
enchanted, and replied yes. As it was evening, she
thought I had better put it off till the morrow, as there
might be a little difficulty in getting hot water. As
the time drew near, I looked anxiously for its coming.
About eleven on the morning of the third day, she came
herself in her carriage (a kind of porter's truck at a
railway, drawn by a bull). On entering, she said all was
ready. 'What do you mean?' I enquired. 'Why, the
bath! will you not go to it?' 'Go to the bath!' I said,
quite aghast at the proposal. The snow was thick on
the ground, and, moreover, it was piercingly cold. I
had been to it once, so knew what I had to encounter.
I should have had to strip in a shed, where, even
in fine weather, it was unpleasant, one side being quite
open to the steppe.

We both had a laugh at the mistake, she at my
imagining she had a bath to bring to the house, and
I at her thinking I should go to one. I understand that,
by the Siberians, it is considered perfectly orthodox to
go to the bath on the third day; and many, I hear, take
cold from doing so, and die.

I do not believe I have told you about their wishing
to swaddle the child. When first my boy was born
they wished to swaddle him, but I assured them it was
not customary in England. A few days afterwards, my
friend seemed so much to urge the necessity of the
swaddling system, that, to give her satisfaction, I consented to its being done, only that I had no knowledge
of anything of the kind; so forthwith she commenced
with stroking down the arms and legs; then she began
binding him, but he very shortly showed her that he
was a true Briton, and was not going to stand any such
treatment, for he fought bravely, so much so that the
bandaging was given up. Looking innocently into my
face, she exclaimed, 'How very odd! I could not have
believed it, had I not seen it; what a difference there
is between English and Russian children! This proves
to me they are not accustomed to swaddling.' Poor
child, he was so very good; for one whole month after
his birth he never once opened his eyes, he did nothing
but sleep and eat; he was never up an hour except
at bathing time. Even the second month I scarcely had
him in my arms, and, until he was nine months old, he
never had a tear in his eyes. I have seen him restless
and uneasy, and it was very remarkable that this always took place before a storm: he was as good as a
barometer on the road. The child's uneasiness was as
certain a forerunner of the storm as possible; even our
Cossacks began to remark it.

The Baron one day complimented me on the good
qualities of Alatau, He said, 'When first I heard there
was a child, I actually swore, such a hatred have I to
screaming children; but I will do Alatau the justice to
say I have never yet heard his voice,' and thereupon
the Baron made him a very handsome present of Chinese
silk, of a most exquisite blue. If such a reward is
merited by silence, I am afraid I should never get it.

Did you ever in your life hear of such a thing as a
baby-pie? If you have lived amongst cannibals, perhaps
you have; but, though the Siberians are not cannibals,
still they make baby-pies. This singular custom first came
under my notice when Alatau was about two months
old; he was very restless one day when my visitor
called (I knew we were going to have a storm), but she
proposed he should be baked. 'Baked!' I shrieked.
'Yes!' Explanations were entered into, when I learned
it was quite a common custom to do so; but if I did
not like to have him placed in an oven, I could cover
him with a crust and put him on the hot stove, when
hairs would come out on the back: these plucked out,
the child would be perfectly easy.

I mentioned the circumstance to a friend in this
town, who tells me it is quite true that Siberian
peasants bake their children. There is a particular
disease they have which it is said can only be removed
by baking. A crust is made of rye flour, when the child
is enclosed within it, in the same way as a fowl in a
pasty; leaving a small aperture for the child to breathe
through; then it is placed in the oven with its door
closed, but only for a few seconds, and it is said that it
proves a sure remedy.

Small-pox is a disease fearfully prevalent amongst
the Kirghis; many of them are awfully disfigured by it.
This made us anxious to have the child vaccinated.
The Baron kindly offered some vaccine which he had
received from Omsk, but after three trials we were
forced to give it up; it was useless tormenting the child
more, when it would not take: so, trusting in Providence, we went forth amongst those very Kirghis where
the disease was raging dreadfully. I felt no fear, and
only on our arrival in Zmeinogorsk did we have him
vaccinated.

Hooping-cough and measles are as unknown to the
wandering tribes of Asia as they are to the Siberians.
Perhaps this is caused by the pure atmosphere they
breathe; they are all the children of Nature, and
Alatau, being one of them, has never had either.

I now go back to the afternoon of May 24th, 1849,
when we cast our last look on Kopal, with its numerous
surrounding tumuli, and turned our steps to the eastward. We formed a large party, as all our friends had
determined to see us fairly off. The gentlemen were on
horseback, but the ladies rode on a miserable machine
which had been made purposely for their accommodation; it was in the form of a char-a-banc. I sat in great
fear, expecting every moment to be jolted off; beside
which, a number of screaming women were clutching
hold of me at every instant.

We passed by the foot of a mountain sacred amongst
the Kirghis, and on which I had often gazed when in
Kopal. I was sorry we were not alone, and I on my
horse, as I had a great wish to ascend. There is a tradition concerning it, that a lady, the daughter of a king,
was famed for the many good actions she had done in
her lifetime. Before death she came to this mountain
to hunt, being particularly fond of the chase, and this
her favourite spot; she was taken suddenly ill and died,
and it was resolved she should be interred on the top.
It is believed that her spirit is still permitted to wander
on earth, for the benefit of mankind; that where she
treads grass grows, and thus it is that it remains green
and luxuriant all the year round. In winter it contrasts singularly with the surrounding snowy peaks.
When we were in Kopal the gentlemen often rode to
this spot to replenish the larder. When they could
procure game in no other part, here it was always to be
found.

It was evening when we arrived at the Arasan, a
mineral spring, where it had been arranged we should
pass the night; and until bed-time right merrily did
the hours roll on, in dancing, singing, bathing, &c.
Though I was glad enough at having the company of
friends, I was not so at their arrangements; neither
male nor female had made further preparations for
their stay than the bringing of night caps; neither
combs, brushes, nor towels. Guess my astonishment
when I was asked for mine.

On the following morning, at eleven o'clock, we bade
adieu to all but Abakamoff, who rode some distance
farther; he, too, parted from us as we were about to
descend a pass on to the steppe. Most probably we
have seen each other for the last time, as it is not likely
we shall ever visit this spot again.

Our Cossack Pavil, who had been our faithful attendant for so many months, really sobbed again as he
kissed Alatau for the last time. Poor fellow!
– he had
become quite attached to the child, having, I might
almost say, nursed him from his birth, taking far more
care of him than any woman would have done; and,
besides, they were excellent friends. Pavil was only a
youth of about twenty. Often has he stood by me,
talking of his home and his mother whom he had left,
and how much he wished to see her. He appeared
pleased to find one who was a willing listener to his
tales of home.

I have seen this youth stand for hours of an evening,
watching Mr. Atkinson paint, and sometimes he has put
a question to him which showed he had really a knowledge of the art. We, too, felt sorrow on bidding farewell to Pavil.

After leaving our friends, we had a succession of bad
weather. But here we were leading once more our
wandering life; taking up our abode with the Kirghis,
and even travelling in company with them. On this
journey I saw the vast herds of cattle possessed by these
people, I was particularly struck at seeing sheep with
four horns, and, on enquiry, learned that it was of
frequent occurrence.

We had now a pass to ascend to reach the higher
ranges of mountains. As we drew near the top of it, we
were enveloped in thick clouds, which gave us a
thorough wetting; we could not see ten paces beyond.
We kept going on, till the barking of dogs induced
all the party to see if there was not a descent somewhere, as the sound came from below; we turned
towards it, and shortly came upon a aoul. The tribe
were on their march to the upper regions, but had been
obliged on account of the fog to turn into this nook,
where, but for the dogs, we should never have found
them. Here we passed a night. On rising and going
out in the morning, we found, a short distance from us,
that we were on the brink of a precipice looking on to
the steppe, 5,000 feet below us. It was like a map;
we saw the rivers Sarcand, Bascan, and Acsou, shining
like threads of silver, until they were lost in the haze
towards the Balkash. The higher summits near us
were still capped in the clouds.

We now started on our way to the Acsou, but found
it very cold over the tops of the mountains. It would
take much time to tell you of all the beautiful scenery
we passed through this day, of the lovely sheltered
valleys, of the magnificent waterfalls, of the ascents and
descents, at times the tracks so slippery that our horses
could not stand, but were obliged to be led down; of
the narrow paths running along rocks almost perpendicular, with the boiling torrent more than a thousand
feet below us; of the slopes of the mountains covered
with shrubs and flowers, far more beautiful than in
many gardens, Nature doing everything without the aid
of man. We found here the yellow rose in great abundance. I gathered them in large quantities: of some I
merely dried the leaves, of others I pressed the flowers,
but after all my care and trouble I have scarcely saved
a flower of any kind; all were spoiled in crossing the
rivers. Then we came upon a large, yellow, sweet-scented poppy; the peony we found both in the glens
and on the tops of the lower range of mountains; the
cowslip covered acres in dense masses. Then there
was an abundance of pink primroses, with a variety of
other flowers. The shrubs appeared of every colour;
how I envied my husband his knowledge of botany. I
was only able to admire, and I did admire, the surrounding beauty, and almost envied those who dwelt
in such lovely places.

There is also plenty of wild fruit, gooseberries, black
and red currants, peaches, strawberries, raspberries,
apples, and other kinds of fruit, of which I did not
know even the name. Will you credit such a thing
–
the Kirghis never eat them! On asking one of them
why he did not do so, he replied, 'Vegetables and fruit
are for birds and beasts, and they are for man.'

On reaching the Acsou, we rode up the chasm as far as
the horses could go, when we found the river running
between perpendicular rocks, without leaving a spot
where man could rest his foot. And a roaring torrent
it was; it came tumbling over large rocks with frightful
speed: nothing could live in it. We saw large trees
snapped asunder in their passage down. It is fearful to
stand and contemplate such places. On June 2nd, we
reached the Sarcand, and pitched our tent, intending
to cross the following morning, as it was a difficult
matter to do so on so frail a bridge as the Kirghis had
constructed here, being nothing more than a few trees
laid across the stream from a large stone near its
centre; but the rising of the water made us fear that
even this simple crossing might be swept away ere
morning, and we concluded it would be wiser to take
advantage of the present time. The crossing was not
agreeable, seeing the raging torrent under our horses'
feet. One false step, and all would have been finished.
The noise of the stones being brought down, and the
roar of the torrent, was so deafening, that we were
obliged to go close up to each other to hear a word
that was spoken. At last it became really painful; the
head appeared full to bursting. I walked away some
distance to try and get a little relief, but it was useless;
a verst from the river the roar was still painfully
heard. This din, coupled with the thunder, was awful;
the latter we had almost daily
– indeed, when it did not
take place, there seemed to be a want in our life
– and
in these stupendous mountain masses it was fearfully
grand, there being a short heavy growl in the distance,
as if the spirits of the storm were crushing huge mountains together, and grinding them to powder; and the
lightning descended in thick streams.

After visiting all the interesting points in the vicinity
of the Sarcand, we started on the 8th for the Bascan.
As we drew near we were greeted by our constant companion, a thunderstorm, and a fearful one it was. A
young maral had apparently been so frightened by it,
that she descended the mountain, and came close to the
yourts. The Kirghis saw her, and immediately gave
chase with loud shouting; the Cossacks followed her
up the gorge, galloping like so many furies. They
soon returned, bringing her alive and uninjured: the
beautiful creature was presented to me. As soon as
Alatau was in bed, I went into the Cossacks' tent to see
her; they were trying to feed her on milk, but she
would not take it. I approached the innocent creature
and caressed it, when it tried to take a little of the
milk, but could not. I suggested that it would be
better to set her at liberty; she was too young to be
taken from the mother. The men said they would do so
when they had caught the mother. In the night she
would come down and commence crying after her
child; they would soon catch her, as she would never
leave the spot so long as she knew her young one was
there, and who would be sure to answer. When they
told, me this, I was more anxious than ever that she
should be released. My heart bled for the mother; I
was one myself. I felt there was no danger or difficulty
that that mother would not encounter for the sake of
her young; and then came the thought, what would the
little thing do without her. I again entreated that
they would set it at liberty, which they promised to do
a little later, when the storm was over; but the mother
might be caught in the meantime!

I left them to seek for some light blue ribbons I had,
which, to the great amusement of the Kirghis, I tied
round the maral's neck. The colour contrasted beautifully with her coat. As I was occupied in doing this she
raised her large soft eyes so piteously to my face, that
before leaving her I placed my arm round her neck to
embrace her, and at the same time loosened the cord
she was tied with. I left the tent, and I had scarcely
related to my husband what I had done when a shouting was heard outside. We both rushed to the door of
the tent, and saw to my delight the graceful animal
bounding up the side of the mountain; the Cossacks
and some Kirghis followed on horseback, hoping to turn
her up the gorge, and so capture her again. But no; she
heard, as we all heard, the mother's voice high up on
the mountain side, probably encouraging her offspring
to advance. Months later I found cause to rejoice, for
I learned my little protégé was taken for a sacred
animal. She had been seen with her mother by many
Kirghis, who forbore shooting her. Those who met her
at a later period found her without her mother. The
tale of the sacred animal was always related with great
gravity. When told by the Cossacks that I had tied the
ribbon round her, they would not believe it, declaring
she had been born so.

I told you my husband's flute was the admiration of
the Kirghis, as well as of the Kalmuks. One of the sultans with whom we had been staying on our road, and
who was wonderstruck with it, arrived after a two days'
journey, with a few of his followers, to hear it played once
more. He then asked for permission to play it himself.
After many trials he returned it, saying he would have
nothing more to do with it
– that it was Shaitan, and he
believed Mr. Atkinson had dealings with him, because,
if not, why did the flute not answer to him when he
whispered to it. Mr. Atkinson again played on it, and
once more offered it to the sultan, but he declined
touching it.

Far up in the mountains we met with many Kirghis,
whose acquaintance we had made at our first entry into
the steppe. All showed joy at seeing us again, and most
charmed to make the acquaintance of the boy. How
lucky it is that he is a boy, and not a girl; the latter are
most insignificant articles of barter. I am scarcely ever
looked at excepting by the poor women, but the boy is
somebody. The sultans wished to keep him: they declared he belonged to them; he was born in their territories, had been fed by their sheep and wild animals,
ridden their horses, and had received their name;
therefore he belonged to them, and ought to be left in
their country to become a great chief. The presents
the child received whilst amongst them were marvellous:
pieces of silk (which, by the way, I mean to appropriate
to myself), pieces of Bokharian material for dressing
gowns, lambs without end, goats to ride upon, and on
which they seat him and trot him round the yourts;
one woman holding him, whilst another led the animal.
And one sultan said, if I would leave him, he would
give him a stud of horses and attendants; but I have
vanity enough to suppose my child is destined to act a
nobler role on this world's stage than the planning of
Barantas, or living more like a beast than a man, and
passing his days in sleepy indolence. Still he is to be
envied, lucky boy! Why was I not born a boy instead of
a girl?
– still, had it been so, I should not have been the
fortunate mortal I am now
– that is, the wife of my husband and the mother of my boy. But, I pray you, do
not make them acquainted with my feelings; they are
both capable of taking advantage of the knowledge you
would impart.

There was a circumstance which I must tell you. Some
of the tribes we came upon had never seen a European
woman; but these believed I was not a woman, and
that, I being a man, we were curiosities of nature; that
Allah was to be praised for his wonderful works
– two men to have a baby! One of our Cossacks I thought
would have dropped from his horse with laughter. I
was obliged to doff my hat, unfasten my hair, and let it
stream around me, to try and convince them; but this
did not at first satisfy them, still I believe at last I left
them under a conviction that I was not the wonderful
being they had first imagined me to be. My stays were
objects of much speculation; they imagined they were
never taken off. When told they were usually worn
with steel, and that we took them off nightly, they were
astounded; their exclamations were many and various.

One of the women took me to see her baby. It was
only about a month old, but what an enormous child!
In England we have fine children, but this one surpassed all I ever saw; I imagined it was a year old.
Then it was strapped to a board quite naked, with furs
above and below, and on this board the child is kept
till it is able to crawl about and assist itself. They are
never washed from the hour of birth, or a drain of water
come near them (excepting it be a drenching rain), till
they arrive at an age to be capable of running into a
stream and taking care of themselves. I observed
that the mother fed her baby by stooping over it; she
told me that it was ill, and requested me to give
her medicine. My husband prescribed some slight
remedy, which I administered, to the infinite delight of
the mother, who took my hands in both hers, and,
pressing them, appeared very happy.

I could not help remarking the difference between a
Kirghis nursery and an English one, where everything
is clean and neat, and white. And a mother also: as the
hour of her accouchement draws nigh, it is stated she
is possessed of the devil, and they beat her with sticks
to drive him away; and as the moment approaches,
they call on the evil spirit to leave her. Poor woman!
her lot in a future existence, it is to be hoped, will be an
easier one, as here she is a true slave to man, contributing to his pleasure in every way, supplying all his
wants, attending to his cattle, saddling his horse, fixing
the tents, and I have even seen the women helping
these 'lords of the creation' into the saddle.

My husband says the Kirghis have opened his eyes
to what is due to husbands, and he is half inclined to
profit by the lesson; and even thinks of opening an
institution to teach husbands how to manage their wives,
and believes it might be made a profitable concern.
Would you like an appointment in the establishment?
He says it will succeed well, and is much required in
England.

Do fancy, for a moment, what a position a woman fills.
A dog is even considered her superior. When a favourite
one is going to have pups, carpets and cushions are
given her to lie upon; it is stroked, caressed, and fed
upon the best of everything. Woman alone must toil,
and they do so very patiently. One Kirghis, seeing me
busy sewing (indeed I was occupied in making a coat
for my husband), became so enamoured of my fingers
that he asked Mr. Atkinson whether he would be willing
to sell me; he decidedly did not know the animal, or
he would not have attempted to make the bargain.
With me amongst them, there would shortly have been
a rebellion in the camp.

I one day became greatly alarmed. Mr. Atkinson was
taken suddenly ill: he had been sketching in the sun for
a long time, whilst I was under shelter. The Cossacks
are really good creatures; they were greatly concerned
about him, and immediately proposed making him
a bath. The Russians are a most ingenious people.
They dug a hole in the ground, and over this placed
stones, and underneath they put wood, thus the stones
became red-hot; then all was covered with a voilock
quite low, so that they had to creep in; afterwards
cold water was thrown over the stones, making a tremendous steam. Here the patient was taken; they laid
him on the ground, and gave him a thorough stewing,
and for which he felt all the better, walking back quite
briskly. True, he might have been suffering from
cold, as we had been for many days travelling amongst
the snowy mountains, and the change from an almost
tropical climate to the snowy ridges, and then back
again, had a greater effect on him than on me. The
only inconvenience I felt was a difficulty in respiration,
when far above the snow line.

What kept the child and myself in such perfect
health was the constant bathing in cold water; the ice
had often and often to be broken to allow us to plunge
in, whereas my husband could not stand it so well.

I must now tell you of a singular place we came
upon in the mountains, but before we reached it I
made the remark, as we rode along, that the rocks
protruding through the grass looked as though they
had at one time been boiling up. When we arrived at
the place I speak of, we found a stupendous mass
of circular granite rocks, and entered what appeared
to be an immense portal, which admitted us into
a vast space, surrounded by granite rocks of most
picturesque forms, while in the centre rose up a large
mass of rock of a conical shape, which appeared either
to have been the summit that had sunk down, or a
mass thrown up in the centre of what really appeared
a crater. On going round we found a second circle; it
was ruggedness and beauty combined. On wandering
over it one felt oppressed at the idea of the power
which had produced such terrific effects. We termed
this place the granite crater: it is a spot which will long
be remembered by both of us.

Here we saw a sunset over the steppe, than which I
never saw anything more enchanting. The steppe was
spread out like a map, the rivers looking like threads
of silver, whilst towards the Balkash lay a boundless
dreary waste, where at this time of the year it would
be frightful to travel; then the golden tints of the sky
I try in vain to find language to describe. Those who
have not visited these regions can form no conception of the splendour of an evening scene over the
steppe.

On riding amongst these granite ridges, one constantly comes upon the most lovely spots. Nature has
designed them for gardens, and she has not been
sparing in flowers either, to adorn these places. The
ground is covered with short green sward, and flowers
of every tint are growing, even down to the little
pansy (this flower we frequently met with close to the
snow), and higher up in the rocks fruit is growing in
large quantities. The most remarkable thing to me
was, that often whilst sitting in tropical luxuriance, we
saw snow falling a short distance from us.

To return to our granite crater: I do not know that I
ever saw anything more picturesque, or more pastoral-like, than the Kirghis with their cattle at this spot.
The sheep and goats ever wander together; indeed, the
former will never go to the pastures without the latter,
who always have bells round their necks; and to hear
the tinkling of these little bells in the silence of this
marvellous spot was striking; and then to watch them
ascending the precipices, the goats far in advance of
their followers, who stood looking after their leaders
in stupid wonderment at the places they were able to
attain, and which even filled us with amazement: they
seemed to bound and leap from crag to rock, and,
almost like flies, to cling to the face of them. And
above these we saw upwards of fifty gazelles standing
together on what appeared the summit of the mountain; they faced us in a semicircle, as there was an
indentation in the mountain. These graceful creatures stood looking at us, seeming as though they
would set us at defiance, and as if they knew no harm
could reach them where they were. They remained perfectly quiet for above ten minutes, and then scampered off like lightning. We presently saw what had
disturbed them. Almost immediately below where they
were standing, out from some brushwood, came an
enormous wild sheep, with his splendid curled horns;
he was a grand fellow to look at. Our Cossacks were
in an awful state of excitement at not being able to
reach him. Even Mr. Atkinson was not calm on the
subject. But they all knew it would have been madness
to make the attempt; the face of the mountain was
almost perpendicular.

After leaving the granite crater, we came to a part
where Mr. Atkinson wished to descend to the Lepsou,
the gorge of which we saw below; we kept descending
very rapidly, but winding round little mountains of
granite, frequently returning to the same point, but
very far below. Between these masses of granite we
found Kirghis, with their sheep and camels, feeding.
It was a matter of astonishment how they reached the
point where we saw them; it seemed almost impossible
to do so. As we descended lower, we found the dwarf
cedar creeping over the granite, and lower down birch,
aspen, and poplar. After this we had a great difficulty
in finding our way, but we did so; the descent was
both steep and dangerous. In a former letter I described (or tried to do) our descent to the Katoonia; that
was baby play to what we encountered in these mountains. Sometimes it was positively terrific; no description of mine can give you the faintest conception of
the route. The Kirghis are most daring riders; sitting
on horseback, they literally appear a part of the
animal. At length we reached the brink of the gorge.
Immediately below us lay a lake, the colour of which I
compared to verdigris; we were so high above it that
we could not perceive the slightest motion in the
water.

A Kirghis made his appearance, and seeing we were
about to attempt a descent, said it was utterly impossible to do so. Finding Mr. Atkinson was determined
to try, he told us we could reach it by going up the
river Lepsou. This appeared feasible, so we turned our
horses on to the old track, and after a descent of four
hours arrived at the Lepsou, a most fertile and lovely spot
We were surprised, but greatly pleased, to find Kirghis.
We now held a council, when one and all declared that
it was perfectly impracticable to reach the lake from that
point. In September, when all was frozen in the Actau,
it might be done; but in June we should all be lost
in crossing and re-crossing the rapids, which we should
have to do at least fifty times. We therefore determined
to return by our old track, but before doing so my
husband proceeded with a man to see how far it was
possible to ascend, and found that he could not go
more than a verst; the rocks were perpendicular to an
enormous height, and the water roaring and foaming
at their base: it required no further proof.

We left one Cossack in charge of our baggage, and
took the other two with us, with what we should require
for a night or so. We now commenced re-ascending the mountain; it proved very difficult for the
horses and camels, but the scenes were highly interesting,
being quite changed. It seemed a mystery how this
extraordinary place had been formed; we came upon
huge blocks of granite, all piled up in confusion, some
appearing ready to fall and crush all beneath, others were
like the remains of some gigantic statues, and, again,
others like the ruins of some mighty city. One almost
felt as if in a land of enchantment. At length we
reached the summit, but it took us double the time it
did to descend. We now once more saw our old friend
the Actau towering above us; its white peaks shining
like burnished silver. Here we made up our minds
to stay the night, as a fearful thunderstorm came on,
accompanied by rain and hail, and in the morning, on
rising, we found the ground covered with snow six
inches deep, giving every place a winterly aspect; and
moreover, whilst at breakfast, a Cossack came to tell us
that a camel had just fallen a little below, against the
rocks, and was killed on the spot, an event which
reconciled us to some delay. It was now impossible to
move. We could have gone on towards the lake, but
to attempt a descent would have been madness. We
were a little fretful, but this did not mend matters;
and what was worse, clouds began to rise thickly from
the valley, which obscured everything around. About
twelve o'clock they began to draw up like a curtain,
first giving us a peep at the lake, and gradually ascending, until we had all the mountains, as well as steppe,
in view. We now hastened dinner, so as to get on the
road again. Whilst we were occupied eating it we heard
a great noise as if many people were wailing, and on
running out of our yourt, we learned the cause of the
uproar. A man had just arrived to say that eight
horses had fallen down the mountain and were killed;
three of them mares with foal. It was quite painful
to listen to these poor creatures, to whom one was
unable to afford even the slightest comfort. We now
determined to await the morrow, fearing to meet with
a like disaster; still it was unpleasant to be prisoners
on the brink of such a gulf as the one on which we
were situated.

The following morning was bright and sunny, giving us
hopes of escape from our rocky prison. The Kirghis now
intimated that it would be better to place our baggage on
bulls, they being safer than camels for a slippery descent.
Whilst the men and one Cossack were occupied in
this business, we proceeded on horseback to the spot
whence we had seen the Verdigris Lake for the first time.
We had some steep rocks to ascend before we began
the descent; and as it was exceedingly slippery, and
difficult for our horses to stand, our progress was slow,
but we reached the summit in safety. We now commenced descending, but found it impossible on horseback; we therefore dismounted, and giving the horses
to a man to lead down, we proceeded on foot, Mr.
Atkinson taking Alatau, and the Cossack aiding me.
In a couple of hours we arrived at a small plateau, where
to our surprise we found sheltered yourts; from above
we saw no sign of them. This rather astonished us,
as all had declared it was impossible to descend; but my
husband does not permit impossibilities, without proving
them to be so himself. There were about eight yourts,
and we were, as usual, received with the barking of
dogs.

It was a most enchanting spot they had chosen,
– a
perfect little Paradise. I was in ecstasies, and taking
the child, seated myself on the brink of the precipice.
It was a fearful sight to cast the eyes below. The head
seemed to grow giddy, and the heart throbbed quickly,
at the frightful depth: where I was sitting, it was as
near as possible perpendicular down to the lake. After
standing for some little time contemplating this grand
but rugged scene, Mr. Atkinson placed his gun beside
me, and walked away to choose a spot on which to
erect our tent, intending to make this place our headquarters. I continued gazing, lost in wonder at the
sublimity of the prospect; it was finer than anything
I had ever looked upon before. At length turning to
see what he was about so long, I was fearfully startled.
I beheld the Cossack surrounded by several men with
sticks; Mr. Atkinson hastening to his assistance; and
other men seizing sticks, and moving forward to join
their companions. Then I observed women throwing
their arms wildly about them, and hurrying to the scene
of conflict. Not a sound of what was going on reached
me, I was far too distant; and, besides, all noise was
drowned in the murmur of a waterfall, which I could
hear, but not see. Neither of my party was armed;
they had nothing more than their whips. I considered
what was best to be done (my heart beating rapidly all
the time). At first I thought of putting the child down,
and running with the gun, and then I reflected he
might roll over the brink before my return. If I took
him with me, and the Kirghis saw me first, they might
rush forward and seize the weapon; as with the two
in my arms I should have no chance of outstripping
my foes, although alone I should soon have done so.
In this dilemma, I concluded it would be safer to
trust in Providence, and sit perfectly still.

I now observed the men brandishing their sticks
aloft, while the Cossack and my husband were facing
their foes, but slowly retreating. The enemy, more especially the women, were following up like demons. At
this instant our other Cossack, who had been left with
the bulls, turned the corner of a mass of rock, and glancing below, saw, and understood in an instant, the critical
position we were in. Without a moment's hesitation, he
rode straight down; how he was not dashed to pieces, is
to me at this moment marvellous. No sooner did the
Kirghis see him, than they closed round the Cossack
and Mr. Atkinson. The former I saw was struggling
with the leader, and a woman clinging on to him from
behind. Now this Cossack was a little fellow, and being
unable to extricate his head from the grasp of the
woman, turned, and with one hand gave her a blow; it
must have been a terrible one, for she was instantly
knocked down. Two of her companions left the combatants, and carried her away. Whilst this was passing
two men had seized Mr. Atkinson, and attempted to
pinion his arms behind him. I think they scarcely
knew what a powerful man they had to deal with; he
quickly flung them off, and disengaged himself. The
Cossack now arrived; he had on his shoulder a rifle
belonging to my husband. To seize hold of it, and
point it at the enemy, formed the work of a moment;
but seemed to produce no effect. The Kirghis who
was leading the horses down now appeared, and on
reaching the bottom Mr. Atkinson backed towards him,
and before they were aware of what he was about
to do, removed his pistols from the holsters, cocked
and pointed them. No sooner did they see the four
muzzles directed towards them, than they dropped their
poles and doffed their caps in submission. I now supposed we were safe, and masters of the field. I therefore jumped up, and taking the double-barrelled gun,
walked with the child in my arms towards the scene of
conflict.

What a sight was there! On approaching, I heard
the howling of the women, and on getting nearer I saw
several with blood on their faces. Our little Cossack
was pale, and breathless with the exertions he had used;
blood was on his face, and his clothes were torn; but
both he and the Kirghis had hold of, and had managed
to bind with thongs, the leader, who proved to be
master of the aoul. A more horrible sight I never
witnessed; the man was actually foaming from the
mouth. I could scarcely endure to look at him. The
women brought water, but our two men would not
allow them to approach. I, therefore, handed it, and
now learned the particulars of the fray.

This man, who, as we afterwards learned, was a very
bad fellow, had taken possession of this spot, and having
determined that neither Russians nor anyone else should
approach him, had called his people around him,
urging them to kill us, and throw us over into the lake,
when they could possess themselves of our effects and
arms, and no one would know what had become of us.
The sticks they had in their hands were the yourt poles,
which he had ordered to be broken up to knock our
brains out with.

This man, whose struggles it appeared had been
awful, now became penitent, and promised not to interfere with us. Mr. Atkinson gave directions that he
should be unbound; but the Cossacks were loth to
liberate him, saying he was a mad robber, and would
make another attempt on our lives. Still my husband
insisted, and the thongs were loosened. We then
retired to our tent, when this man went with several of
his followers, and seated himself on a mass of rock at
the edge of the precipice. After awhile he once more
commenced haranguing them, and, talking loudly,
kept pointing down towards the lake. One of the
Cossacks entered, saying the fellow was still bent on
mischief, and urging the men to kill us.

I suggested the necessity of speed, and that we should
quit this place as soon as possible. We were drinking
tea, when I was surprised at the entrance of our discourteous host into the tent; he seated himself, and I
handed tea, which he declined taking. One of the
Cossacks had followed him in; he said they also had
offered tea, but he refused. He now commenced fingering and looking at everything we had; the guns and
pistols especially had charms for him. Much to the
surprise of the Cossack and myself, my husband allowed
him to handle them.

Mr. Atkinson now prepared his sketching materials,
to descend to the lake; and asked him for two men from
the aoul to accompany him; these he readily consented
to let him have. I insisted on his taking at least one
Cossack, but no persuasions of mine could induce him
to do so; he was firm in the decision he had come to
–
viz., the leaving them, with our own Kirghis, as a
guard for myself and the boy; the only concession he
made to my entreaties was, to at least keep the men in
front of him. This he did, and forthwith commenced the
descent, which was very precipitous. I seated myself
on the edge of the precipice, and watched till I could
no longer distinguish them. I then looked at them with
my opera-glass. This the master of the aoul observed,
and began making signs to me, which I would not understand. After awhile he approached me, so I arose
from my seat, determined to show no fear, and stood
perfectly still, merely placing my hand in my pocket
and grasping my pistol, but without drawing it forth.
I should have been under no apprehension, had I not
observed one of the men going backwards and forwards
to the principal yourt; and then a woman came and
tried to induce me to go back. This I stoutly refused
to do, believing they wanted to make us prisoners, or,
at least, the child. However, the man asked for the
glass; this I gave him, and he returned to his former
post on the rock. He now commenced looking towards
the travellers, and seemed thunderstruck. He then
looked at them with the naked eye, and then again with
the glass, his face all this time undergoing a variety of
changes which it was amusing to see. He then passed
it to his followers, who all looked through it, each one
appearing more amazed than his neighbour. At length
he returned it to me, repeating many times Yak-she
(good).

I took the glass, to see if I could distinguish my
husband. I could discern nothing more than the
horses, no bigger than ants; and should not have known
them, but that the spots I saw were not stationary. At
last they descended still lower, and I lost sight of them
altogether.

Amongst this grand mountain scenery I seemed to
conceive a more vivid idea of the power and presence
of the Deity; and then I felt that the beneficent
Being who had called all I saw around me into
existence, did not neglect to watch and guard even the
least of His creatures, if they trusted in Him. What
care had been bestowed upon us this very day! We had
but three opposed to upwards of twenty, besides women,
and my heart swelled with gratitude for our deliverance.
My reflections were, however, disturbed by my observing that the men were leaving the rock. They went
towards their yourt; and shortly after, a woman, I
presumed one of the wives of our host, came towards
me. I again grasped my pistol, but this was not an
unfriendly visit, for she brought a Chinese silk handkerchief with a mother-of-pearl decoration, and presented them to the boy. After she left, I sent one of
the Cossacks with the child's red hat, which I had
made him in Kopal, as a present to one of the children.
Had I offered a bar of gold, it would not have given half
the pleasure this hat did. Alatau had now a felt one,
which I had procured from a Tartar, decidedly more
useful, but nothing like so fine as the one I had
made.

Our host, for he really turned out to be so, had had
a sheep killed, and all, after the conflict, were going to
make merry. It was nearly dusk when my husband
returned to his dinner, and the man who had intended we
should be his victims went forward to meet him and
shake him by the hands. 'A change had come over the
spirit of the dream;' he now entered our yourt, and
when I offered a glass of tea, accepted it, and appeared
scarcely to know what to do, or how to render himself
amiable enough. But all this did not prevent our taking
precautions for the night, in case of an attack being
made. I prepared so far as to place my last piece of
tallow candle by my side, with the matches. I was
awakened in the night by a noise; I was certain some one
was in the yourt. I sat up and listened, I heard the
sentinel walking to and fro without, and supposed it
was only my imagination; still I determined to strike a
light, but when I sought for my candle it was gone. I
now was startled in earnest
– some one had certainly
been in. I had one small piece of stearine in my box,
so I got up and searched for it, and then lay down,
holding it in my hand, together with the matches; but
night passed, and morning dawned, without anything
new taking place. We had a good laugh, for I recollected it must have been the dogs that had slipped
under in the night and stolen the candle, as it proved
to be, by the way they had disturbed the voilock.

On the following morning Mr. Atkinson wished to
descend to the lake once more, to sketch it from another
point. Our host urged us to stay longer, but we
declined,

The cause of the peculiar colour of the water we
could not ascertain. The lake was about three quarters
of a verst wide, and two to two and a half long; and
the Kirghis said it was as deep as the mountain was
high, but that we could not believe, though evidently the
depth was great. They called it the Jassel-kool, which,
translated, means young lake; perhaps a lake newly
formed by an earthquake, as the rocks appeared tossed
about in great confusion.

On leaving this place our host determined upon
accompanying us, to see us in safety on our road; he
likewise indicated where we might find Kirghis, as we
resolved on changing our route, and not returning by the
way we came. Just as the sun was setting we arrived
at a lovely spot on the granite mountain; it was a
small stream running between grassy banks, in other
parts finding its course under huge blocks of fallen
rock.

Only on the seventh day after quitting our Cossack
on the Lepsou did we return to him. He was greatly
pleased at seeing us; he had already begun to fear for
our safety, imagining we were lost in the intricacies of
the mountains. That night I do not believe our men
closed their eyes; so busy were they in discussing the
events of the last few days.

We now prepared to descend to the steppe, to visit
an old Kalmuk fortress situated on the Lepsou. All the
way along the banks of this river we found Kirghis
encamped; they were gradually returning from the
mountains. Many amongst them were old acquaintances;
and numerous were the invitations to stop and feast,
but after the usual salutations we were forced to continue our route. We also found an old friend whom
we had often met in Kopal, sultan Boulania, one of the
chief men of the steppe; with him we were forced to
dismount and take tea. He told us we should find it
unbearable on the steppe at this time of the year, July
2nd; but we had made up our minds to go.

I was charmed with our ride along the valley of the
Lepsou. This river has several branches; we were on the
most easterly one: it was finely wooded, and the river
meandering so calmly along gave altogether a softness
to the scene to which latterly we had been unaccustomed. We termed this the Happy Valley. Looking
towards the mountains, we saw the Actau rearing his
white crests far into the clear blue sky, exhibiting a
picture of both winter and summer, for the valley
where we were was one carpet of flowers.

Our progress down to the plain was at times very
steep and difficult. The heat became greater at every
step, and then there were millions of mosquitoes, who
bit us without mercy; and where we stopped, we had
to fill the yourt with smoke, to drive out the enemy.
As we advanced, and got glimpses of the country below,
it was like a sea of yellow sand with a stripe of green
along the banks of the river, which we saw winding its
course till lost in the horizon.

On entering one of the ravines it was just like going
into an oven, the hot blast that met us was fearful:
but on reaching the plain it was still worse; the sun,
and the heat reflected from the arid rocks, positively
broiled us. The temperature ranged between 55°
and 60° Reaumur. Whilst the yourt was being fixed
my husband laid his gun on the sand, but when he
went to take it up, it burnt his hand, and the blister
remained for several days.

On going into the yourt I thought I should have
been suffocated; and, to add to our discomfort, we were
forced to have a fire to keep off the mosquitoes. Fortunately we thought of having water poured over the
sand; this cooled the atmosphere a little.

Poor Alatau was in a sad state; he was one mass of
bites. No one could have recognised him. I myself was
not much better. I placed the little fellow in bed, perfectly naked, and covered with a piece of muslin, which
we contrived to prop up; but still the brutes succeeded
in getting in, and it was impossible to sit by and watch
the whole time.

Mr. Atkinson soon completed what he wished to do
here, and on the morning of the third day we started
back to the mountains. We were up between two and
three, when I turned out to have a dip in the Lepsou,
raining and dark though it was. Standing on the banks,
and looking across the steppe, I witnessed the dawn, a
most lovely sight. It was the first time I had ever seen
it over the steppe. For a few moments I thought it was
a fire, and that the rosy tints were caused by the flames
gradually lighting up all around, but I was soon undeceived. Willingly would I have seated myself to watch
the approaching day, but there was no time to be lost,
as we had to be on our way by sunrise; it being quite
impossible to travel during the great heat.

When we started early I always let Alatau rest till
the men were ready to take down the tent, when I
aroused the little sleeper, to bathe, dress, and feed him.
His toilette was soon completed, as it consisted of
nothing more than one loose dress which I had made
from some Bokharian material. This he wore with a
belt round his waist. He never had shoes or stockings on his feet till our return to this place (Barnaoul), and even now I have much difficulty in getting
him to wear them. I very often find them on my
table. He takes them off, and runs about without
them; but this is quite common amongst Russian
children, and is considered very healthy. They even
trot about the gardens, and over the grass, without
either; and not only children, but grown-up persons
do the same, and delightful, I can tell yon, it is, especially on the sand.

One day we began to imagine we were back again in
civilised society. We were journeying on when we met
a Kirghis, who said he had had some difficulty in finding us, and that he had a letter for me. On reading it
I found it contained an invitation to dinner, and was
thus expressed: 'If Mr. and Madame would be so good
as to dine with me to-day in the first hour, I will beg
of them to bring a pair of silver spoons and a pair of
forks, and nothing more will be wanting.'

THE idea was too delicious to refuse. Pelonka was a
Russian merchant whose acquaintance we had made
in Kopal, and whom we had also met in the mountains. He had heard of us, and had sent this man to
seek and take us to his aoul, which was situated near
the river Tinteck (wild or savage). Our friend had
chosen a lovely spot on which to encamp, and prepared
for us was a very nice little yourt, fitted up exquisitely.
The voilock was raised a little all round, so that a
gentle breeze passed through. His wife (he was married to a Kirghis) and children soon came to visit us
and to make tea, undoubtedly the best we had ever
tasted; then they brought me cushions on which to
repose till dinner, which I gladly did, for the day was
sultry hot.

At the appointed hour dinner was forthcoming, and
a sumptuous one it was; everything was clean and
neat, and they tried to do all they could to make us
comfortable. Here we gained a great deal of information respecting the different routes. Before quitting, our
host presented Alatau with a tiny basin to drink out of.
He had previously sent him, when but a week old, one
still smaller, with a note stating that it was for 'the
new-born babe,' which note, I regret to say, I have lost.

The atmosphere being cooled, we were anxious to be
off, so I called at the yourt of Pelonka, to take leave of
his wife. After sitting with her for awhile, she took me to
a compartment separated by curtains, in which was their
only son. He made me shudder to look at him. The
child was about eight or ten years of age; his disease
was the 'king's evil,' which I was told made frightful
ravages among these people; his head was swollen to a
dreadful size, and in an awful state. The father entered;
we spoke of the little fellow, and he said, if we could
only cure the child, he would give us half his flocks. I
was glad to get away
– it was too painful to look upon;
and for two years he had been in this state. When he
was first attacked he used to play about as usual, but
latterly he had taken no interest in anything.

One of our Cossacks, whom I called Columbus, was of
an exceedingly inquiring mind. When we encamped for
the night, and at times whilst Mr. Atkinson was
sketching, he would come and squat down beside me to
have a gossip. First came the never-failing question of
'Have you ever seen the Emperor?' Then he was
curious to learn something of England, and our military.
Geography had great charms for him, and after I
showed him the different countries on the maps, he
would ask me to allow him to show them to his companions. It was evident they had discussed the matter,
from the questions he put to me on his return. One day
he said, 'I hope I do not trouble you by putting so many
questions.' I told him I was very much pleased to
answer any that I was able. 'Ah!' said he, 'it is very
different with you from what it is with our gentlefolks;
whenever we put a question to them, they are sure to
cheat us in their answers, so we never ask now for information. I am so much obliged to you for all you
have taught me; in two years I am going home, and
I shall have so many things to tell them.'

It was a sad blow to us when it was announced that
our rusks were finished. We had now nothing left but
the dust from our dried bread; and, salt though it was,
we considered it a luxury. I ate my portion dry, but
Mr. Atkinson poured boiling water over his, making a
sort of pap of it, which to my ideas was very nasty. We
were now pleased at finding apples, though they were
not yet ripe, and awfully sour. We had no sugar to eat
with them. I had them boiled, and ate them like potatoes.
Then we came upon rhubarb, which I stewed and ate.
I was glad to get anything in the shape of vegetables.
Unfortunately, this summer we missed all the fruit;
where it was growing we were either too soon or too
late, thus there were nothing but regrets each time we
descended to their localities.

We were now journeying on to the Ala-kool. The
lower we descended, the more intense became the heat;
indeed, we were literally broiled. My cloth dress (I
wore no petticoats) was even too much for me. The
Kirghis adopt quite another mode to ours: the hotter
it becomes, the more clothing they put on; and during
the greatest heat they wore horse-skin shubes. I enquired if they were cold; they said they wore them to
keep out the heat. I am not over sure that they are
not quite right, for the sun was intense. Mr. Atkinson's
hands were in a terrible state, blistered all over the
backs of them. Whilst sketching, it was impossible to
wear gloves. When our hats were taken off we appeared
as though we had on masks; not quite black, but a
nice mahogany colour. The boy was the same.

One evening we gained the aoul of some Kirghis at
sunset, where we heard a good deal of sobbing, but we
were too much occupied about ourselves to pay any
attention to it, and afterwards I entirely forgot all about
it. The following morning, as we were about to mount
our horses, I heard exactly the same sounds, only more
protracted. I listened, as I was sure they were proceeding
from sorrowing hearts. I learned from one of our men
that the yourt whence these notes were issuing was one
of mourning; they were chanting prayers for the dead.
I asked if it would be indiscreet for me to enter, and
was told there would be no impropriety in my doing so.

I found two women, the wives of the deceased,
kneeling before a pile of baggage, saddles, &c., placed
on one side of the tent; they were moving their bodies
to and fro, and chanting in concord, and evidently in
verse, and at the end of each verse the body was bent
more forward, and for a second a stoppage, with the
sound of 'ach,' or perhaps I may more and better
compare it to a deep sigh. They kept time beautifully.
The notes wore so exceedingly musical, and so expressive
of sorrow, that the tears flowed from my eyes. It
made me so sad that my husband would not allow me
to stay.

The husband had been dead some months, but it is
usual for the women to offer up prayers for an hour, at
sunrise and at sunset, during a whole year. Numbers
entered whilst we were there, but took no notice of the
mourners. A little child about three or four years of
age began crying and making a great disturbance; then
it ran to the mother; she touched and stroked it down,
but without for an instant removing the fixed gaze, or
staying the vibrating motion of her body. The child
wanted to be fed, but she put it on one side. You would
be surprised to see boys of ten and eleven years of age
feeding from the mother. When I saw it I was much
astonished; but I never once observed that a girl did so.

As we left the yourt of mourning, I saw there was a
long pole, at the top of which was suspended a piece of
black silk as a kind of flag; this always indicates
death, but red denotes a sultan. We saw several standing in different parts; they were placed where a sultan
has appropriated a spot to himself as a camping-ground,
and to which he means to return as he descends the
mountains. Thus no ordinary mortal dares intrude upon
the chosen ground.

I saw a singular custom amongst these people, which
is for a sultan to place in the mouth of a favourite
follower pieces of meat, which he receives standing, his
hands placed behind his back. These morsels are
sometimes so large, that a man has been known to die;
to allow it to fall from the mouth, or touch it with the
hands, would be an act of great unpoliteness, which
rather than be guilty of, the favourite chooses choking.
I saw a man receive what I called a love ball; the
meat was formed into a ball. How the mouth got
stretched to the size was inconceivable, and I verily
believed the poor creature would expire, but he did not.

They are a peculiar race of people, being able to
remain two, and some three days, without eating, and
then the quantity they can eat is enormous. I was
told that a man can eat a sheep at once; on making
the enquiry among the Kirghis, one of them offered to
treat me with the sight if I would pay for it, but I
declined witnessing the disgusting feat.

I must tell you of a pass we descended on our way to
the Ala-kool; it was fearfully grand. We could see the
plain at a frightful depth below us; the way down was
rugged and difficult, and, moreover, we had a storm of
wind and rain. First we came upon a small torrent,
which was soon lost to view under the fallen rocks,
then we again came upon it running amongst small
trees, while the dark grey sides of the pass rose in
frowning masses to a great height, and as if they really
ascended to the sky, which was barely visible above our
heads. It might have been termed the Valley of Death,
so gloomy and still did it seem. The state of the
weather added to the feeling.

About midway down, the pass had fallen and blocked
up the gorge, forming a small lake; on gaining the
head of it, we looked down far into the gulf below. At
this moment, the wind came rushing down the ravine
with such fury, that we were really afraid of being
blown over. All hastily dismounted, and crouched down
by the side of the horses, who, poor animals, tottered on
their legs. I had often seen the effects of the wind, but
never before felt it in the same degree. Had the men
not seized hold of my dress, I should doubtless have
been blown away; I had no more power than if I had
been a leaf wafted by the wind. We found it impossible to descend to the foot of the ravine, it became
so narrow and blocked up with fallen rocks; so we
managed to turn up the side of the mountain, and rode
along the ridge: it was extremely difficult. The descent
altogether occupied us five hours; whilst from above I
imagined we should reach it in an hour.

Once more we were on the steppe, and travelling
along it by the mountains. To tell you all I suffered
from the heat is impossible. Suffice that at times I
thought the poor horses would sink. The wretched
dogs howled again. It was terrific, and the ground we
were travelling over being sand, the heat from it was
intense.

I must now tell you of a maral we had. He was given
to me on the Bascan; he had been caught young, and
was thus perfectly tame. I used to leave him at times
with the different tribes we met with, and take him up
on our return from our rambles; sometimes he trotted
by us, and at others his feet were tied together, and he
was seated before one of the men. He was a beautiful
creature, with large expressive eyes. I was much attached
to him, and, moreover, his love for the child was remarkable. I had noticed, if Mr. Atkinson, of an evening
when we encamped, took Alatau in his arms whilst I
was occupied in household duties, Bascan (the name we
gave the animal) ever followed them. I spoke of the
circumstance, but the idea that the creature had any
affection for the child was attributed to my lively
imagination; so placing him down, he said, 'Now see,
Bascan will follow me;' but he never moved, and lay
down by the child. His father took him up. No sooner
did he do so than the animal followed. This was repeated
several times, before my husband was convinced.

What displeased me in Bascan was, that he would
never condescend to stop in a yourt with the men,
always preferring our society. One evening, Mr. Atkinson being gone for a stroll alone, I, having some
sewing as well as washing for the child to do, did not
accompany him, so was seated on the grass outside the
tent to prevent Bascan entering (the boy was in bed).
He hindered me greatly, being obliged to jump up
every few minutes. I therefore procured a rope, and
fastened it across the door, zigzag, as high as I could
reach. This effectually stopped him, so he kept
wandering round and round, and each time he came to
the door he checked his speed and cast longing glances
at it, but my heart was obdurate
– when, at one of these
rounds, I was surprised at his taking a leap, and clearing
the ropes. I was instantly on my feet, and darted into
the tent to thrust him out, when I saw a sight that
arrested my attention. The creature had bounded to
the child, and lying down gracefully beside him, was
reclining his chin on the bed, close to the little fellow's
face. My heart would not allow me to touch him, he
seemed to watch over him as though he wished to protect
the boy, so I left him in peace, innocence beside innocence; after this Bascan was a privileged creature,
coming in and going out at pleasure
– but, alas, for
poor Bascan, his fate was a sad one.

The heat on the steppe being so terrible, he had to
be carried the whole distance, so we concluded it
would be advisable to place him on one of the pack
camels. I now and then looked to see that he was all
right, but at one of my visits to his camel, I saw his
head hanging down, and his tongue protruding from
his mouth. I shrieked to the men to take him off,
and started one back to bring water from a mountain
rill we had passed about a verst distant, but before he
returned I saw the lovely expressive eyes become
glassy, and then a film came over them. It affected
me to such a degree, that at the next stream we came
to I was obliged to ask them to stop, when they buried
the poor fellow for me. I felt sadly grieved.

We scarcely knew how to account for his death,
–
whether the heat was too great for him, or whether he
had got entangled in the rope; or it might have been
that riding on the camel was disagreeable to him. I
could not myself endure mounting these animals, the
motion being the same as the pendulum of a clock,
and extremely unpleasant. Not a man we had but
grieved for poor Bascan; he was such a gentle, harmless
creature, that he gained the affections of all.

We pitched our tent opposite to the Ala-kool, at
the foot of the mountains, about an hour and a quarter's ride from the lake. A watch was ordered to be
kept during the night, as we were in a bad locality,
being near the place where the escaped convicts from
the Chinese penal settlements have taken up their
abode. As our men had no tent, and the night being
stormy, I bid them place their arms in our dwelling,
to keep them dry, which was done. In the middle of
the night I was awoke by hearing footsteps in our
apartment; somewhat startled, I gently awoke my
husband and whispered to him. This was heard by the
intruder, who turned out to be Columbus. He bid me not
be alarmed. I demanded what he wanted; he replied,
'Our arms, there are people about.' There was no mistaking their intentions, so we jumped up. I always at
night placed everything where I could lay my hands
upon it at a moment's notice. Placing my husband's
pistols and gun into his hands, he started, bidding me
lie down and keep quiet, but such was not my nature.
If we were to be captured I was determined to see
how it was managed, so put on my dressing gown and
slippers, and out I went, with my single pistol in my
hand; the other had been stolen. It appeared there
were about six or eight men; they had come within
fifty yards of our tent, but, observing the sentinels, had
retreated across a little glen, and rode under the dark
shade of a small mountain in front of us. Our Cossacks,
Kirghis, and Mr. Atkinson, mounted their horses and
rode over the ground, but they were gone; the place
afforded many ways of escape, even quite near to us.
What appears a vast plain, as level as the hand, when
we come to ride over it we find undulating ground,
intersected by gullies, where horse and rider may soon
be lost to view. It was undoubtedly the intention of
these men to have stolen our horses; had they succeeded in doing so, we should have been an easy prey,
as without them to have ascended the deep ravine
would have been impossible, and the sultry sun and
burning sand across the steppe would soon have killed
us, to say nothing of the want of water. After watching a couple of hours we again betook ourselves to rest,
giving orders to call us if anything occurred.

On looking over the plain towards the Ala-kool,
one is induced to believe the lake much smaller than
formerly; there is evidence of its having once been
nearer the mountains. To me there was an appearance
of the whole steppe having been once under water; we
found granite boulders in many parts, and it was impossible not to ask oneself the question, 'how did they
come there?' and besides, they were not small, I
speak of parts far away from the lakes and mountains.

We had a heavy storm, and the wind as it passed
over the lake lashed the waves into white spray, but
towards evening it was fine and clear. We sat watching the shades of night draw over the scene before us.
Just as the sun went down, he cast his last rays over
the low, flat, sandy shores of the lake, tingeing the
opposite side with a golden hue. The hills and mountains were beautifully shaded, whilst on our side all
was grey shadow; it was a lovely picture, nor did we
stir till every object was lost to view; even the stars
were seen shining in the deep blue vault of heaven ere
we rose from our seats. On such nights as these one
feels as though living in a land of spirits, everything
calm and serene around, not a whisper of any kind.
Sometimes a feeling of sadness creeps over one, on
thinking that we must once more return to the busy
world, with all its ceremonies, cares, and troubles; and
one would almost wish to be a Kirghis, wandering, like
them, amongst all that is beautiful in nature
– but then
comes the thought that this would be but an idle life.

Near the lake we found a bank of gravel about
twenty to twenty-five feet deep. At the bottom of
this bank was a fine shingly shore; it was small and
black, and had evidently been washed up from the
lake. About a verst to the east, we saw a dark mass
jutting out of the water; on riding up to it we found it
was a piece of rock, composed of the same material as
the shingle. Mr. Atkinson struck it with his hammer,
when it rang like a bell; he found it very difficult to
break. A reef of it ran out into the lake, but deep
under water, which was so clear that anything could
be seen at a great depth. On tasting the water we
found it salt and bitter.

There is an island rising up in the lake, but it was too
distant to discern anything but a mass of rocks. In
winter the Kirghis cross the ice to it; they told us that
the pasturage there is good for one month. In summer it is impossible to reach it, as they have no boats.
It is frozen over in the month of October. The snow
falls very deep; bourans are very frequent, and are
frightful in their effects.

It had been told Mr. Atkinson, by Baron Humboldt,
that there had been volcanoes in this lake, and, as if
in confirmation of his theory, we found near its shores
what appeared to be lava. We brought a piece of it
with us to Barnaoul, where they have analysed it, but
declare it is not lava. Now I do not pretend to tell
you what the composition is, nor anything about it.
All I can say is, that the spot itself was a lovely one.
There are two lakes, the small and the large Ala-kool.
The island was in the large one.

There were many Kirghis tombs on the shore, all of
sunburnt bricks, excepting one of a sultan, which was
of wood.

How singular it appears, in one day, in the morning
to be in tropical heat, all clothing unbearable, and
before night to be in a snowy range, having to break
the ice to procure water. This was our case on leaving
the Ala-kool. It would be almost a repetition to tell
you anything about this grand and mighty ravine that
we ascended, but, on our passage up the mountain,
what a lovely view we had of the lake, stretching far
over the steppe. We dismounted our horses, and by
a narrow zig-zag path reached a ridge, whence it was
nearly perpendicular down to the steppe. The height
was so terrific that it required a good head to look
down.

Here we seated ourselves to watch the vapour rising
from the lake, which gradually became condensed as
it reached the colder regions; it was then carried over
the mountains, where it became black, and then we
heard the thunder roll, and saw the heavy rain begin
to fall. All this to me was a curious sight, never
having remarked it before. When first the vapour
began to condense, it appeared not larger than the
hand.

At the top of this pass Mr. Atkinson, to the delight
of the Kirghis, shot a large black eagle. I held these
birds ever in the greatest dread, being in constant fear
of them flying off with Alatau. They frequently carry
off lambs, but I had not the slightest desire that
Alatau should visit one of their eyries, to serve as a
meal for their eaglets.

Amongst the mountains near the lake we never passed
one day without a thunderstorm, and sometimes two.
This warring of the elements is grand, and the more so
when it takes place in one of the ravines. Then the
storm, combined with the roaring of the water, appears
to make the very rocks tremble; and afterwards to see
the clouds clear off, and the sun shoot down his bright
rays, has a beautiful effect.

On the 26th July we returned to our old quarters on
the lake. The morning we left it, we were up at an
early hour, so as to be on our way ere the sun rose, but
our hopes were frustrated. During the night the dogs
had been very uneasy. We were up many times, but saw
nothing; but just as we were ready to start, at sunrise,
Falstaff (a Cossack so named by us) came and pointed
out some men prowling about. Mr. Atkinson ordered
two of the Cossacks and a Kirghis to ride towards them.
He mounted his own horse to go with them, leaving me
Columbus; but I entreated of him not to leave us,
knowing that he was a better shot than all the three
Cossacks put together. As soon as the men observed
our people mounted, they rode off fast towards the head
of the lake; there were four of them. Our men followed
at a furious speed.

The chase was an interesting one. For full twenty
versts we could see them, excepting when crossing the
watercourses, then dry. These not being broad, they
were only hidden for a few minutes. Both parties
seemed bent on reaching the same point, which was the
head of the lake; the one to reach it, and the other to
cut them off. They at last became so small, from the
distance, that even with the glass we could no longer
distinguish them.

We now looked anxiously for the issue. Suddenly
we saw four men creep up from one of the watercourses, but seeing us on the watch they descended, and
shortly afterwards rode out on horseback, going towards
the river Aragita, and the part where Chinese and
Kirghis congregate. This might have been a ruse, to
draw all away from the yourt, whilst others were near
to pounce upon us, and sweep all off; if so, they did not
succeed.

After a couple of hours' more watching, we saw a
something moving on the plain towards us from the
head of the lake. We became quite excited, the more so
as we observed one more was added to the party. At
length, when they came near enough for us to distinguish, we observed they were leading a camel, whilst
George was carrying a long lance in his hand. We
learned from them that they had come up with the men,
who had been obliged to relax in their speed, to protect
a companion whilst he threw away his saddle, to lighten
the burthen of the horse; this he did without dismounting. Whilst he was doing so, two men rode up to
attack the Cossacks. One tried to stab George with a
lance; he missed, and ere he could strike the second
blow, George suddenly wheeled his horse round and
caught the lance from him. As he did so the fellow's
fury was great. He said, 'We have tracked you for the
last fifteen days, but you shall not escape us; we will
take you yet.'

After a little more battling, they rode off. Our men,
reloading their pistols, followed some distance, but then
concluded it was more prudent to return. As they were
doing so, they found the camel picketed in one of the
watercourses, and brought it with them. At the next
aoul we came to, they claimed the camel; he had
been stolen the night before, with others, and more
than twenty of their finest horses. This tribe warned
us of the bad characters we were sure to meet with in
the direction we were about to take, but we saw nothing
more of them.

I have not told you of the many rapid streams we
had to cross; some where we had all to ride in together,
the one to bear the other up. The Kirghis, invariably
placing me in the centre, and clutching my dress,
seemed determined to take care of me. Some of the
streams were broad and deep. When it was so, I used to
retire behind the reeds or rocks, as the case might be,
and, stripping, put on my bathing gown, with my belt
round my waist; and tying my clothing into a bundle,
boots and all, I jumped on to my horse
– merely holding
tight on to him with my legs, there being no saddle
–
and swam him across in the company of a Kirghis, he
gallantly carrying my bundle for me; when I would
again retire with my bundle, to re-equip myself. These
are the sort of things we have to do in travelling. At
first I used to feel (I will not say timid, but) my heart
beat quicker; now I think nothing of it. I am vastly
altered since leaving Petersburg.

Then I must tell you of the wild horses we have to
mount, caught fresh from the Taboon; some, perhaps,
never before mounted. Once I was really alarmed. I
had Alatau on my saddle, when my horse began to shy:
fortunately I soon quieted him. But, another time, I
had thrown my cloak around me during a storm; it
cleared off, and Columbus being near, I asked him to
take it and roll it up, as my horse was rather wild. His
being the same, he had a little difficulty in approaching
me; thus the cloak fell from my shoulders, which being
seen by my horse, he shyed fearfully. Columbus now
attempting to ride up, made him worse; he then started
off over the plain at full speed. No efforts of mine could
stop him, so, sticking to him like a leech, I waited
patiently till he should either tire himself or be caught,
for the Cossack was galloping after me. A Kirghis now
joined in the chase, and commenced hallooing and
bellowing at the utmost pitch of his voice; this made
matters worse, for the animal dashed on the faster.

FORDING A STREAM AMONG THE ALATOU MOUNTAINS.

At last Columbus stopped. I found out this was why
the man was calling, for when he was no longer heard
galloping behind us, my horse gradually slackened his
pace, and by degrees came to a walk. I was afraid to
attempt to turn him till he became quieter, so I looked
round, and saw the Kirghis at a great distance, walking
his horse towards me, and Columbus standing still; he
at length drew near, and by degrees reached my side,
and seized the bridle. As he did so, I thought the horse
would have thrown me, but he stroked him, and seemed
to calm him. After this the man patted me on the
back, and gave me to understand how proud he was of
me; then he showed me what a Kirghis woman would
have done under similar circumstances. First, he commenced screaming, and almost set my horse into another
fright, and concluded by falling from his horse. He
remounted, and again patted me with evident delight.

We had several miles to ride back, and I did not at
all thank my animal for giving me a run for nothing.
On reaching our party, I received so many congratulations
at my safe return, as also for my bravery, that I verily
believe, if we had stopped longer in the steppe, a woman
would not have been looked upon as such a contemptible being as they consider her to be; for the
men now began to notice me, a thing they had scarcely
deigned to do before.

As we were crossing the steppe between the two
lakes, and near the shores of the small one, we found
the sun declining fast, and being yet far from a river,
we sent a man to the small lake, and, finding the water
sweet, we called a halt. Our tent was soon pitched, as far
from the reeds as possible; the sand was beautifully
clean and white, and solemn stillness around us; but
night came on like a race-horse, and then we heard a
most unwelcome sound amongst the reeds. This was
our old tormentors the mosquitoes commencing their
music. I quickly crept into bed, hoping they might
not find us.

For long we lay watching the vivid lightning. This,
with the heat from the ground, prevented our sleeping.
At length we slept, but we were soon awoke by the
blood-thirsty creatures, who had too surely discovered
us. There were, I am sure, millions in our tent; they
positively maddened me, and I became alarmed lest
they should devour the boy. Mr. Atkinson arose and
went outside, to see if anything could be done to keep
them out, but his exit was not so rapid as his retreat
into the tent; he had not gone ten paces, before the
horrible things seized upon him with such energy, that
he was glad to array himself in his tchimbar and boots.
How I prayed that a breeze might spring up, and as if
my prayer was answered, it began to blow; this increased
till it became a gale, which was nigh sweeping everything away. We had to call the men to secure the tent,
which had fallen down; they propped it up so that we
could just breathe, and then putting weights on the outside left us. It had one good effect, it entirely cleared
us of the enemy.

The lake, which was like a mirror when we lay down,
commenced breaking on the shore with a tremendous
noise, while the wind whistled as if from the sea. As
soon as day broke we arose, and quickly packing up
started without breakfast, as the dark black clouds
were gathering; but the rain caught us, and the sand,
which was so hard and dry the night before, was now
a quicksand, into which we kept sinking. All were
alarmed, and our progress was very slow: still I could
not resist going up to the lake, which was really
frightful to look upon; the waves were rising to a
tremendous height.

On the 9th of August we arrived at a Chinese picquet
close to Choubachac, or, as they there called it, Chougachac. Falstaff tried to dissuade us from going on, as
he had been told by a Tartar that the Chinese would
make us prisoners; I laughed at his cowardice. When
he saw we were determined upon proceeding, he pleaded
indisposition, took the place of Columbus near the
camels, and instead of leading dropped quite behind
them as soon as ever we reached Chinese ground. As
we approached the picquet, we could perceive the town
and its minarets in the distance; and we intended applying to the officer for permission to enter it. It was about
mid-day when we arrived, and for the first time I really
saw Chinese. There was no mistaking them and their
peculiar costume; their boots were principally of black
satin, with very high heels and thick soles; their
jackets pleased me amazingly, and were really pretty.
Those of the servants were of blue cotton, but their
superiors wore silk or satin. The latter is called kanfa,
and can be washed exactly like a piece of cotton.

Now commenced the ceremonies. A servant ran
forward to announce our arrival, making signs for us to
remain; he shortly returned, and conducted us into a
courtyard, where we found the principal officer playing
with a goose; however he rose from his stooping posture,
and received us most politely. I was completely
wonderstruck at his height, Mr. Atkinson appearing
quite a small man in comparison; he was like a reed,
and as though a blast would have blown him over. He
ushered us into his room, a place devoid of furniture,
there being merely a raised platform for his bed, on which
he seated us. The apartment was shortly filled with
persons, undoubtedly anxious to see what we were like.

The officer desired to know our object in visiting
China. Mr. Atkinson said that being so near Chougachac, he merely wished to pay his respects to the
governor, and see the town. The officer replied that
we had better encamp, and he would send a despatch
to the governor, and the answer would probably arrive
that evening.

We were seated in our yourt, when our new friend
with his secretary and interpreter came to take tea with
us. They were evidently much interested in all they
saw, examining everything most minutely, and I am not
sure whether I was not the greatest curiosity. They
told us that they had been stationed at this picquet for
three years, and I believe they had another year to
stop, before they would be permitted to rejoin their
families. They complained bitterly about being separated from their wives.

The following morning two officers with three soldiers
rode up to our yourt, and the former dismounted
and entered. As they had no interpreter we could not
understand a word, but, to judge from their countenances, they were enchanted to see strangers. They
consented to take tea, but before I had poured it out,
the soldiers said something, when they both started up,
and shaking us most cordially by the hand, darted out
of the tent, remounted their horses, and galloped off at
a furious speed. It appeared that they had come from
another picquet to have a stare at us. These men were
also very tall; so I came to the conclusion that they
had been chosen as able to look over the reeds and
along the road. The soldiers had bows and arrows
slung at their backs; one of them carried a long lance,
but they all sat their horses beautifully,
– like the
Kirghis they had the short stirrup-straps.

On going outside we discovered the cause of their
hasty departure: the soldiers had seen their superior
officers and their retinue on the road from Chougachac.
Our first friend sent to say they were coming.

In about two hours he came himself to announce the
arrival of three officers from the town, who, he said,
would be very glad to see us. I put on my hat, and
desired Columbus to take care of the child till our
return. The Chinaman was perfectly horrified to think
we intended walking, he would not hear of our going
in so undignified a manner, so we had to order the
horses: but, when he found it was our intention to leave
Alatau, he was terribly vexed; no! he must go, so I
put his hat on and told Columbus to bring him. On
arriving at the picquet we found a body of soldiers,
they opened a way for us to the presence of the officers;
when I took my husband's arm, and we marched along,
Columbus following with the boy, and George bringing
up the rear as interpreter. We found them sitting
cross-legged on a carpet spread under a group of trees;
quite a romantic spot, and so exquisitely cool: to the
right, in the distance, was seen a tomb, and to the left
a stream of water. The officers instantly rose and came
to shake hands with us, which they did in a most
cordial manner. This being done by each in turn,
stools were placed, on which we two seated ourselves,
when tea and sweetmeats were handed to us. In the
meantime, Alatau had been seized by the kaldi or
superior officer, who almost devoured him with kisses,
then the other two had him in succession, when he was
passed back to the kaldi, who sat in the centre with a
low table before him, the others sitting at each side.

The conversation now commenced respecting our visit,
and Mr. Atkinson repeated his request of the previous
day. They put many questions, thinking there was some
other motive. Then they said we were the first English
who had ever presented themselves in this part of
China, and that the governor could not allow us to enter
the town, until he had sent to the emperor; but that
if we would consent to remain, he would send a despatch
to know if we might be admitted, and in the meantime
would do all they could to make us comfortable, and
render our stay pleasant. From this proposition my
husband dissented at once.

THE ENGLISH TRAVELLERS' INTERVIEW WITH CHINESE ON THE FRONTIER OF CHINA.

After a good deal more conversation, I asked whether
I could not enter the town; there would be surely no
impropriety in my doing so, and, if they would allow
me, I would have no objection to go alone. The kaldi
smiled, and asked what I expected to find. I answered,
'Merely the town and the people in it; and, never
having visited a Chinese town, everything would be of
interest besides a curiosity.' He replied: 'We have
only our wives and daughters there, and the town itself
is but a miserable place; but, if I dared, nothing would
give me greater pleasure than to take you, for you
would be the greatest curiosity we ever had in the
place. If our laws did not forbid it, I would this
moment take you, so that my wife might see you; but
my head would answer for my temerity,'
– and he significantly passed his hand across his throat. It was
intimated to Mr. Atkinson, that, if he dressed as a Tartar
and shaved his head, he might enter as a merchant and
nobody be the wiser; but to this he would not consent,
as an Englishman he would visit the place or not at all.

Our communications were naturally of a very limited
kind, it requiring five persons to carry on the conversation, which went through four languages. George
stood by the side of us; but on their side it was exceedingly interesting. The Tartar who translated into
Chinese was a very handsome man. He stood on the
left of the officers, and after receiving a communication
from our side, turned to his superiors, and kneeling on
one knee said something; he then rose, and crossing his
hands on his breast and bowing his head delivered the
communication. When the kaldi answered, he again
knelt down, and going through the same ceremony rose
and turned to our side.

They now invited us to stay and dine, to which we
consented, having nothing better to do. They made
many excuses for the poverty of the dinner, but seemed
pleased that we would stop. It consisted of rice, meat,
and soup, which came last; this was followed by sweetmeats, and then tea. They tried to teach me to eat with
chopsticks, and were quite pleased when I managed to
do so. However, George had sent home for a pair of
spoons and a pair of forks, which afforded two of our
hosts much amusement. The kaldi said he had once
been stationed at Canton, and had seen English there,
and knew some of their customs. After tea we took
our leave, intending to start on our journey back the
following morning. They also would stay to see us
before starting. Alatau was most fervently embraced,
and as we passed down between the files of soldiers,
they were no longer so stately as on our arrival, for
they seized the child, and each one in his turn embraced
him; there was not one let him pass, and I can assure
you the boy was amused.

On arriving at our yourt and talking the matter
over, we concluded it would be better to start at once,
and travel on during the cool of the evening, so we
sent a messenger to say such was our intention. Flour
and rice were forwarded for our acceptance; they were
probably aware, as travellers, that we could not get any
on our journey; and a hope was expressed that we
would not leave without seeing them. All was soon
prepared, when we mounted our horses and rode over
to bid our friends farewell. We not having announced
our approach by a messenger, found one of the gentlemen without his uniform,
– he was greatly shocked;
the other two were in full dress, and appeared to enjoy
their colleague's mishap amazingly. I presented a
purse to the kaldi; the trifle pleased him. They then
shook hands with us, kissed Alatau; and thus we parted,
apparently with mutual regret that the acquaintance
could not be continued. They gave us a guard of
honour to conduct us part of the way. The first officer,
the hero of the goose, presented Alatau with an enormous cucumber, which he looked at with no small
surprise, but which was most acceptable to his father,
not having tasted a vegetable of any kind for nearly a
year.

The day after bidding adieu to our Chinese friends
we rode for ten hours over burning sand without stopping; which, together with the intense heat of the sun,
rendered me almost dead with headache. The reflection affected Mr. Atkinson's eyes very much. When
we encamped, I was so very ill that I became a little
alarmed. How gladly would I have lain down! but it
could not be. I had Alatau to wash and bathe, which
I usually did whilst the tent was being got ready, and
the camels unloaded; and this ended, I had the bed
to make,
– how I knelt down to do it, I scarcely know.
After this was done I fed the boy and put him to bed.
We were exceedingly systematic in all our arrangements; each one had his allotted task; no one was
idle; and there was no hurry or confusion. Having
performed my duties, and seen my husband seated at
his tea, I lay down on a bearskin, and thought never
to rise again; but after a sound sleep I was all right, and
ready for my breakfast a little after five, having fasted
for twenty-four hours, and had a fatiguing day's ride.

We never allowed Alatau to suffer if we could avoid
it; for at each tiny rivulet we came to we dismounted,
and, taking off his little dress, poured the water over
him with a drinking-cup. It was the affair of a few
moments; we speedily joined the rest of the party, and
had the satisfaction of knowing the boy was refreshed
at the cost of a short gallop over the burning waste.

The flour we had from the Chinese we used to mix
with milk when near a Kirghis encampment, and
with water when not within their reach, and then fry
it in a little fat: this we considered a great delicacy.
When we got to the end of our flour, we had an amusing, but not a pleasant, incident. It was evening when
the man announced the last of it; we were therefore
more sparing than usual with our tea, reserving part
for the morrow's meal, and this we placed in a round
tin case, which held our plates, and when open served
as two soup plates. In the morning, after I had made
tea, I looked for my tin, but could not find it. I called
a Cossack; he knew nothing of it. We were at a Kirghis
aoul, so it was evident some one had paid us a visit
during the night. Inquiries were instituted, the master
of the aoul felt his honour was at stake. Guests to
visit his aoul, and then be robbed, would never do. A
strict investigation was made; but it was of no use, all declared they were innocent of the theft. By and by one
of the men had to cross a rivulet for the horses, and
when on the opposite side he found the tin, but it was
open and the little provision gone. It appeared a dog
had carried it there; he had smelled something edible
inside, and being unable to open the box had taken it
down to the rivulet, where he no doubt had dragged it
over the stones until he had forced it open. As you
can easily imagine, I was rather savage at even the
name of a dog for the whole day; still we could not help
having a laugh, as we might just as well have made
a good meal the preceding evening.

I dare say it will appear strange to you, but, from the
hour of our entering the steppe until we left it, I never
knew what it was to have a sufficiency of food; without
bread or vegetables it was impossible, at least for me,
to feel quite satisfied. Fancy only meat and nothing
but meat, then tea without sugar or cream. I was the
worst off, having two to nourish; and I can assure you the
keen air of the mountains sharpened the little fellow's
appetite. One good thing, he had learned to eat meat:
he began before he was three months old; at first he
eat morsels the size of a pin's head, but bread he did
not even know the flavour of.

When in the region of apples, as I before told you,
we lived a good deal on them. They were sadly missed
in the steppe, where there was nothing of the kind to
be had. Encamping however one day in the Tarbogatie
mountains, Mr. Atkinson wished, whilst we were occupied in domestic arrangements, to proceed higher up
to sketch; so I begged of him, if he found apples,
not to fail in bringing a supply, and for that purpose
provided Columbus with a bag. He did not seem at all
inclined to take it, saying he was confident none would
be found in the region they were about to visit. Nevertheless I insisted on its being taken; I was too hungry
to lose a chance of procuring apples, sour though they
were.

Hours had passed, when a man touched me to draw
my attention from my needle, which was in constant
demand, and pointed in the direction whence we had
been looking for the return of the wanderers. As they
drew near I saw our three, but to my surprise, on
the led horse was seated another, and the Cossack
leading him. I began to think they had had a struggle,
and were bringing this man prisoner, but on their
coming closer I was astonished to find that it was a
headless trunk, seated upon the horse. I then recollected that at that period of the year no Kirghis ever
wandered so far in the mountains, indeed all had
descended to the plains. My heart was sad; I fancied
it might be some poor fellow who had been killed by the
wolves: and still I thought, why had they not buried
him on the mountain? All the men were engaged
looking and wondering, when my husband rode up
and all was explained. It turned out that they had
wandered farther than they expected, and came upon
large orchards of apples, the fruit hanging in tempting masses. The bag was quickly filled, and the
Kirghis mounted it before him on the saddle; but
Columbus stood bridle in hand leaning against his
horse, apparently in deep thought. My husband was
gathering some flowers to bring me, when he perceived
him suddenly start up and without further hesitation
divest himself of his tchimbar. Tying each leg with
a string, he filled them with apples, and drawing the
top together fastened them astride on the led animal;
and this was the headless trunk.

You will like to know, I dare say, how I managed
about my washing. When near a aoul I used to get
the Kirghis women where we encamped, when not too
late, to do it for me; and in payment gave needles,
which were much prized, ear-rings, beads, pins, and
even metal buttons: all these things gave great satisfaction. They make their own soap, but I never saw
it done. When the linen was washed they brought it to
me to dry, as they had no time to look after it; and you
may conceive the process of drying was not a long one.
I then folded it, when it was beautifully mangled with
the pressure it got on the road.

I must now tell you of a tea-party I had in the
steppe. Mr. Atkinson wishing to sketch a group of
women, I sent the Cossack to invite a number, as I
could not get them to understand what I wanted.
They came in grand holiday costume, and amongst
them was a bride, whose dress was really pretty. The
calatte was silk of gaudy colours, over this was worn a
short jacket of black velvet, with crimson cloth round
the edge. The head-dress consisted of a high conical
cap, the upper part being white, whilst a black velvet
band embroidered with gold enclosed the face. A line
of silver drops and coral beads hung over the forehead,
from a broad band embroidered with coral; and over
all this was thrown a white veil. We once met a bridal
party, the husband was taking the object of his affections, or rather his slave, to his own aoul. The veil
was thrown completely over her head, concealing her
features entirely, so that her horse had to be led.
Camels were following with her dowry. I wished to
raise her veil; at first she made a slight resistance, but
afterwards allowed me to lift it. She smiled and seemed
pleased to see us, and surveyed me probably with as
much curiosity as I did her. She looked very interesting, which is more than I can say of the generality
of her countrywomen. To return to my tea-party.
When the sketch was completed, I had the somervar
brought in, and mustering all the basins and glasses we
were possessed of, regaled my friends with tea. I wish
you could have seen the dismay pictured on the faces
of the men, to whom I was cruel enough not to offer
even a glass. Tea concluded, I had meat brought in
and served to my guests. This was the crowning point;
the 'lords of the creation' could no longer stand this
slight, so arose and made their exit, and I saw no more
of them that night. The women appeared to enjoy the
fun of the thing. When they had ended their meal, I
completed their happiness by giving to each a few
beads and ear-drops.

A TEA-PARTY IN A KIRGHIS TENT.

I must tell you of the very great disparity which
occurs frequently in the ages of married couples
amongst these tribes. At one aoul we saw a newly
married couple, where the wife was near thirty and the
husband a mere child, whom I saw her correcting in the
same way a mother would correct her infant. Another
couple we met at some other aoul, where the wife was
a healthy robust young woman, and the husband an
insignificant youth of fifteen. The cause of these
marriages is, that the boys are left orphans, and their
guardians marry them to women who can take care
of them, and thus they relieve themselves of all
trouble.

I cannot forbear mentioning the daughters of Beck
Sultan, two beautiful girls: the youngest was more to
my taste, being very pretty; her hair hung in a multitude of braids around her face, and just on the crown
of her head she wore quite a coquettish-looking cap.
She was slim, and exceedingly graceful in all her
movements. Her elder sister was a perfect Amazon.
When she visited us she brought her little nephew with
her, a fine child between two and three years of age;
she was sitting playing with him, when she placed him
on her hand, and stretching her arm out at full length,
there he stood. As you may imagine, I was not a little
surprised, for he was really a heavy boy. At her
departure, I conducted her to the door of the tent, she
gave the child to the man who was holding her horse,
and taking the bridle from him, placed her hand on
the saddle and vaulted into it without the slightest
effort. Be assured, I envied her this accomplishment.
And then to see her on horseback was a beautiful sight,
she sat the animal so gracefully.

We had many times in the steppe occasion to see
the great mischief done by wolves, which abound in
vast numbers, and make frightful ravages amongst the
sheep. In one case the savage animal had made an
attack upon two boys, but was fortunately frightened
off by our approach.

Our journey in the steppe being ended, we again
resumed our carriage, which we found in Aiagooz.
With sorrow we bade adieu to our Cossacks, who had
been our companions through so much toil and so
many dangers. And the child too,
– they had become
attached to him; many an hour had they passed in
singing songs to amuse him on the way. The bidding
farewell is always a sad feeling, be it to persons or be
it to a spot; and this I felt when we reached a point in
the steppe, where I saw for the last time the white
peaks of the Alatau and Actau rearing their lofty heads
far into the clear blue sky. I was loth to leave them;
and when I did so, I could not restrain a tear from
starting to my eyes.

On arriving at Zmeinogorsk, a little more than a
year from the date of our leaving it, so much were we
altered, that at first sight our friends did not really
recognise us. Mr. Atkinson was in a terrible plight,
his boots had been patched and mended with the bark
of trees, till they would scarcely hold together. The
first person in request was a bootmaker, whose ingenuity you would find a difficulty in matching. We
gave the order for the boots and supplied the man with
leather. He looked at Mr. Atkinson's foot, and was
going away, when I stopped him, to say he must at
once take the measure, as they were required immediately. 'Oh, I never measure,' he replied, and went
away: we felt sure the leather would be wasted. In
two days they arrived, when my husband declared he
had never had a pair of boots fit him so well.

We had several visits to make as well as evening
parties to attend. At the first I went to I found the
principal amusement of the evening was, as usual, card-playing. The young ladies sat, Siberian fashion, bolt
upright in chairs placed close together round the room.
Having examined all, I tried to enter into a conversation; but, as it is customary to be very silent, I found it a
difficult task, receiving no other answer than 'yes!' and
'no!' After a time I found a very chatty body, with
whom I got on capitally; but we were interrupted by
the hostess enquiring if I did not play cards. I said 'No,
the only thing I do is to play patience, or tell fortunes.'
I had no sooner uttered the last words, than my neighbour begged that I would lay out the cards for her. I
said it was merely nonsense I had repeated; but it was
of no avail, cards were procured, and we adjourned to
the dining-room, and for three whole hours did I sit
there, obliged to invent all sorts of folly. No sooner
did one set retire than another came forward; not
alone the young girls, but the old ones likewise. It
was only when the table was about to be spread for
supper that my dealings in the black art ceased; had I
been in London, and the police entered, I might have
been walked off to prison.

A few weeks later I was at the same house, when an
old lady bowed very low to me, and enquired after my
health; I returned the compliment, although I did not
know her. She then called the attention of a younger
one to me, and said, 'You must thank this lady.' I
stared, as I could not imagine on what account. She
explained by saying that I had brought her son, the
husband of the younger lady. I was still more perplexed, until she said, 'You laid out the cards for me,
and just as you foretold he arrived;' and again turning
to her daughter-in-law, she said, 'Soul of mine, why do
you not return thanks?' when both set to bowing like
Chinese dolls. I could not help smiling at the simplicity of the old body, and, what is more, I had again
to go through another ordeal of fortune-telling.

Before leaving Zmeinogorsk, I wanted some pomatum
made, so forwarded my recipe to the apothecary, with
a note asking for castor oil and essence of peppermint,
I received four times the quantity I had asked for, and
everything of the best quality, and not one kopeeck would
they receive in return. I discovered that the old lady
whom I met at the soirée was the wife of the apothecary. She had said to me, 'My husband observes you
never send to him for anything.' Some one addressing
me at the time, I had been unable to seek for an
explanation; but here it was.

I must now tell you of a rather singular circumstance
which took place whilst at Zmeinogorsk. This time we
occupied the same apartments we had on our first
arrival. Some few changes had taken place on account of
a visit they had received from the wife of the Natchalnick
of Barnaoul. I found, for instance, a bed put up in a
room where no bed had been before, and we slept in it
for several nights. You must understand the building
we occupied was very large; it was what is called the
Gospodsky Dom, which is devoted expressly to visitors,
and is capable of accommodating a considerable number. A courtyard separated us from the house of the
Natchalnick, where we used to take our meals, with the
exception of breakfast, which was served to us in our
own rooms.

At our arrival from the steppe, we found the host
and hostess absent at Petersburg. The former was
daily expected; meanwhile we were entertained by the
gentleman who occupied his post until his return. My
husband spent the first evening with him, and I sat
in my bedroom awaiting his return. The servant
entered to ask if I required anything further before she
went to bed; I told her I would take the child into
my arms, if she would make the bed in the next room.
I had a sudden fancy to change it. She did as I bade
her, but was, I think, a little surprised at my caprice.
Hour after hour passed, not a sound was heard in any
direction, all was still as death, within and without the
building, with the exception of the voice of the sentinel.
I was reading, and the witching hour of night was close
at hand, when I heard a peculiar sound which rather
startled me. Although no coward, I own to a strange
feeling passing over me. I was alone in the house; I
knew not where the servants slept, or whether they slept
there at all; I was completely ignorant of their movements. Hearing nothing further, just as the deep-toned bells tolled forth the hour of twelve, I again settled
myself to read; still, not without taking a look at
Alatau, who was calmly sleeping. I had not been long
absorbed in my book, when I again heard a sound
which made me start, the more so as I was sure it was
in the room; this being very large, I shaded my eyes,
and tried to peer through the apartment, when there
was a creaking and a cracking followed by a smash. I
started to my feet, but for a moment I was unable to
distinguish anything, for the room was filled with either
smoke or dust. When it cleared off, I looked in the
direction whence the sound proceeded, and saw that the
greater part of the ceiling over the bed had fallen; had
the child been there, he would have been killed to a
certainty.

After the affair was over, I could not help reflecting
how mysteriously we are at times directed. Of why I
had had the desire to remove the bed I could give no
account; it appeared to me strange. Something of a
similar nature had once happened to me in Petersburg.
I was in the habit after dining of retiring to my room
in company with a young lady to read; but one day
we did not do so, but lingered amongst our elders,
gossiping and talking. All left but three, and still we
sat on, when we were suddenly startled by a great
crash. We rushed through the rooms and found the
maids pale as death, standing near my door. None of
them knew what was the matter; it was something
in my room, but no one dared to enter. Going in we
found the ceiling had fallen, not exactly over the sofa,
but large pieces had fallen on it, which would have
given anyone sitting there a serious blow, even if it
had not proved fatal. So you see how the hand of
Providence is stretched over us mortals. Had my
friend the apothecary's wife known of this, she might
have supposed, with her usual naiveté, that I was a
witch, and had foreseen these events on the cards.

It will perhaps be interesting to know how we are
going to spend our time this winter. I will tell you in
a few words. Mr. Atkinson has a large room in which
he intends devoting his time to painting, so that on our
return you will have some idea of the country over
which we have travelled; still, although the delineations of the places we have visited are faithful, I feel
better pleased to have seen nature than a representation of nature. My occupations are of a more ordinary
character, merely in some instances mechanical, for
instance the use of the needle; but I have a real treat
in books, having been deprived of this luxury so long.
When I commence one, I never know how to leave it.
Then there are the evening parties; and although a
short distance from the town, we are never allowed to
miss them, a sledge or carriage is always sent for us.
Then Christmas is approaching with its festivities,
when all the young officers from the distant Zavods
will arrive to take part in the grand doings. I understand balls will be given at the houses of each of the
three principal officers.

Dresses and head-dresses for the great occasion are
anxiously looked for from Petersburg, as all things of
this kind are ordered from there; thus the state of the
roads causes much disquietude to the ladies, as I learned
that it does happen at times that the boxes containing
these articles are immersed in water, and everything
ruined.

I must tell you of a circumstance which happened to
us on the first night of our arrival in Barnaoul this
time, and which was nigh numbering us with those
that were. It being a bitter cold day, and the rooms we
occupied not very warm, they were again heated during
our absence at dinner, to which we had been invited
by Colonel Sokolovsky. On our return the bear-skins
were spread, and in due time we lay down to rest. In
the night I was disturbed by Alatau breathing very
hard: I felt him, he was in a burning fever. I was
about to raise myself to procure a light, when I found
such a lassitude had come across me, that I had not
strength to rise; at the same time the pulses in my
head were throbbing fearfully, and my heart beating so
wildly that I was alarmed. I awoke my husband, who
at once said there was vapour in the room; he had been
once before, in this same town, nearly killed by it. At
last I arose to follow him to the door, but fell prostrate
in the centre of the room, with the child in my arms.
No sooner was the door opened, than my husband also
fell in the passage; here we all lay full ten minutes,
without the power of moving. The cold frosty air
rushing in recovered us. We awoke the inmates; and
very properly, I think, gave the man who had done this
a thorough scolding. After the stove had been opened a
short time, there was quite a blaze from the wood, still
far from burnt out. Had the child not fortunately
awakened me, I make no doubt that it would have been
our last sleep. It is by no means unusual for the
peasantry to be killed in this way; they are so exceedingly careless in such matters.

Preparations to leave Barnaoul
– A Bal Costumé
– Siberian Courtship and Marriage
– Whipping a Bride a Proof of Affection
– The Cook and the Cauliflowers.

Barnaoul, May 1850.

I THINK I have great reason to retort, and complain of
the non-arrival of letters from you. I do hope I may
get one before we leave this town. Your next must be
addressed to Irkoutsk, but months will pass ere we reach
it, and during all that time I believe you will have a little
peace, as I shall be deprived of the power of scribbling
to you. I am not sorry that we are once more going to
wander amongst the mountains. With the return of
spring I feel, like the birds, a desire to take wing and
fly away; not but I shall feel very sorry to quit this
place, where we have spent some most agreeable months.
The longer I dwell here the more I like the inhabitants.
During the winter we have been entertained with balls,
marriages, private theatricals, and indeed no end of
amusements.

You will doubtless be surprised to hear that my son
has made his début in the great world. He has been to
a bal costumé dressed á la Kirghis; and a beautiful
costume it was, the most inexpensive, but decidedly
the most effective, in the room. Some of the children
wore most costly dresses. When it was proposed to
me to take Alatau, I thought the idea preposterous;
but on the eve of the ball I began to regret that I had
not accepted the offer of one of the ladies to go with
me to purchase a material for a dress for the child.
Mentioning the circumstance to his father, he said, 'Why
not make him a Kirghis costume?' I thought the idea
brilliant, so having arranged how it was to be done, I
was up early on the day of the ball stitching away;
perhaps you will like to know how he was dressed.

First he had a red silk (Chinese) tchimbar, then
a beautiful little dressing-gown, of Bokharian material,
striped red and yellow, the ends tucked into the
tchimbar; and instead of a shawl round the waist, he
wore a dark blue scarf with embroidered ends; a whip,
a hunting-knife, and a match-box were stuck into the
belt; red shoes, and a Kirghis hat, in shape like a boat,
completed his costume. The hat was the most difficult
job of all, but it succeeded admirably. It was quite
scientifically cut out in pasteboard by my husband; I
covered it with red Chinese silk, and decorated it with
gold lace, coral beads, and Chinese ornaments, the
feathers from the breast of a turkey supplying the place
of the owl's. At six o' clock the carriage arrived.
When he was dressed and saw himself in the glass, it
was very amusing. I had difficulty in getting him away;
however, I divested him of his hat, and wrapping him in
my fur cloak, he slept till our arrival. The musicians
were seated in the ante-room, and were just commencing a dance; this aroused the little fellow, I tied on
the hat, and whispered to him to walk into the room,
where the children were making a terrible uproar. He
marched boldly to the door, where he stood apparently
amazed at all he saw, we keeping behind. No sooner
had he made his appearance, than a sudden silence
ensued for a moment, then came a scream from all
sides, 'It is Alatau! it is Alatau!' When we entered
no one saw or took any notice of us; there was a crowd
round the child, who had been seized by Madame Sokolovsky, and placed in the centre of a table where the
gentlemen were playing cards.

Afterwards one of the children said to me: 'At first I
did not recognise Alatau, I thought he was a walking
doll, and had been made to come into the room as a
surprise to us.' It may truly be said of Alatau that he
has already caused a sensation. We stayed till near ten,
and had then a difficulty in getting him away.

You will like to hear something of a Siberian marriage.
The courtships are not long,
– a month is sometimes the
extent of the acquaintanceship. This in some degree
may be caused by the vast number of presents the
bridegroom is expected to make; he never approaching
the house empty-handed. One of his gifts must of
necessity be a shawl, the value depending on his means.
I once heard of a gentleman sending a courier express
to England for one for his future bride. No sooner has
a gentleman made his proposal to the parents of the
young lady, and become her accepted suitor, than he is
introduced to the whole of the relations of the family,
servants as well; he is then looked upon in the light of
one of its members, and is henceforth permitted to make
his calls without being in full uniform.

On the eve of the wedding the young lady assembles
her companions, when they all join in singing a
farewell to the maiden. The bridegroom sends them
vast quantities of bon-bons, and sometimes he sends
a present to each of the young ladies; the bride also
divides amongst them little trinkets which she has worn.
Meanwhile the bridegroom gives a dinner to his bachelor
friends, and takes his leave of them.

The dowry, for a day or so before the ceremony, is
spread out for the inspection of friends who call to
see it. The room in which it is displayed looks like a
magazine. The dresses are suspended on stands, and
tables covered with jewellery, laces, and linen tied with
pink and blue ribbon, &c. &c. Before it is packed to take
to the bride's own home, the priest comes to bless the
articles, and sprinkle all with holy water. He is usually
admonished to be careful of velvet dresses, &c.; this he
appears to understand, and if sufficiently rewarded is
most sparing of the consecrated water. I was told when
such was not the case, he would spitefully throw a large
quantity over the perishable articles. The bridegroom
furnishes the house; but the bride provides the silver
and linen, as likewise a dozen shirts, a dressing-gown,
and a pair of slippers for her future husband. I presume it is to be supposed that she with her own hands
spins the flax, and then weaves it into cloth.

On the marriage day it is not permitted for the bride
and bridegroom to meet till they do so at the church,
the ceremony usually taking place about 8 P. M. The
young couple are also obliged to fast from the time of
rising on the eventful day, until after their return from
church, with the exception of a cup of tea without cream.
As soon as the bridegroom and his party have entered
the sacred edifice, the bridesman drives off to announce
the fact to the bride.

The dress of the bride is usually very beautiful; it is
full ball costume, and always pure white, with veil and
orange blossoms. She is not allowed to do the slightest
thing for herself; all the relations, and even the merest
acquaintance, provided they are unmarried, are invited
to assist in the dressing of the bride. The shoes, which
are of white satin, are put on by the youngest brother, or
if there is no brother, by the nearest relation, who
places a piece of money in one of them; this is the perquisite of the femme de chambre.

On one side of the church are the relations and friends
of the bridegroom, and on the opposite those of the
bride; when the ceremony is concluded all return to
the home of the bride's parents, and are met by music.
Then the father and mother come forward,
– not the real
parents, but a couple chosen for the occasion, called
Mère assise and Père assis. The young couple kneel
to them, and receive their benediction, being crossed
three times each with the image of the Virgin and Child,
which afterwards is pressed to their lips; and then the
crossing is repeated with the bread, in the centre of
which is a silver salt-cellar containing salt. This is
repeated by both father and mother to each of the
newly married. After this is over, they both rise, and,
kissing the hands of those who have blessed them, are
conducted into an inner apartment, and seated on a sofa,
where they receive the congratulations of the guests;
their health being drunk in champagne, which is often
declared to be excessively bitter, and is rendered sweet
by the bride and bridegroom embracing each other.

After drinking tea, the guests retire, and the young
couple, if they have another home to go to, do the same,
preceded by some of the married relations of the bride;
whose duty it is to divest her of her bridal dress and in its
stead clothe her in a muslin capote lined with silk, and
a dainty little cap to correspond. Thus equipped they sit
taking tea, and chatting, far into the small hours of the
night; the poor husband doing solitary duty by marching to and fro in another apartment, waiting patiently
till the ladies choose to separate.

The following morning the parents and near relations go to take coffee with the newly married; then
there is a dinner-party at the house of the parents;
this is followed by a succession of invitations, the last
of which is usually hailed with delight, as it leaves
the young couple at liberty to retire to the country,
which they doubly enjoy, as it gives them a respite
from visiting and visitors.

Whilst on the subject of marriages, I may as well tell
you of that of a peasant girl which I once saw in the
country. On the eve of the eventful day it is customary
amongst this class for the bride to be taken to the bath
by her young companions. In this case she had to pass
by the garden of the house where I was stopping; and,
being occupied reading, I was startled by most heartrending sobs. I hastened to the gate to see what it was,
and found the bride being supported by her young friends
towards the bath. They were attempting to cheer her
by singing. I felt very sorry for the poor girl, as I had
heard they often marry without having the slightest
affection for their future husbands; indeed, amongst the
peasants, a man chooses his partner, not from any beauty
or personal attractions she may possess, but for her
capabilities of endurance,
– one who can do a good day's
work carries off the palm in a village. The young wife
is obliged to work for his relatives who are incapable of
doing so for themselves. Thus this poor girl's sobs drew
tears from my eyes; returning from the bath she was
still sobbing, and quite bowed down with grief. I was
glad when she was out of hearing, she made me feel so
very melancholy.

I was invited by a young friend to accompany her to
the bride's cottage. I felt some reluctance at doing
so, but to please her I went. We entered quite unceremoniously, and found the young damsel seated at table
supping off bread and onions; her face radiant with
joy. I was startled, the more so when she enquired if
she had done it well. I then learned that the weeping
was part of the ceremony. I really felt sorry that the
whole thing was a farce. After the marriage vows have
been pronounced, the lady is veiled and taken to the
house of her husband, where all the guests are assembled,
and who express a great desire to see the face of the bride;
at length the veil is withdrawn, when all exclaim 'How
lovely!' In this instance I was exceedingly amused,
as she, though a really good girl, was very ugly.

One of the customs among the peasantry is to hang a
whip at the head of the bed. I never understood what
this signified till my arrival here in Barnaoul, although
I had seen it at every peasant's cottage on the road. A
nursemaid of mine left me to be married, and some short
time after she went to the Natchalnick of the place to
make a complaint against her husband. He enquired
into the matter, when she coolly told him her husband
did not love her. He asked how she knew he did not
love her; 'because,' she replied, 'he never whipped her,'
the instrument of castigation hung over the bed, and
had never once been used since their marriage. There
is no accounting for taste; what one considers a proof
of love, another looks upon as a want of affection.

Among the amusements of Barnaoul is music, which
they are very partial to. The arrival of an artist is
always hailed with pleasure, as it gives variety to the
ordinary routine of their lives. During our stay two
Italians gave concerts, as also Christiana, who plays on
the violoncello. At these concerts the artists are aided
by the ladies, at least by those who do not object to play in
public and before a large assembly. I have not yet told
you of the delicious liqueur the Siberians manufacture;
in Barnaoul they are famed for it,
– it is made from
every berry that grows. It is called Nalifka, and to
my taste is preferable to wine. During the great fast,
cream is not taken in the tea, almond milk or a slice
of lemon is used instead, and the latter is often taken
from choice; but in Siberia lemons are not to be bought,
those which find their way there come as presents. As
a substitute the juice of fruit is prepared, which is mixed
with the tea, making a most refreshing drink.

A short time since we were invited to dine at a friend's
expressly to partake of some cauliflowers which had been
sent him as a present
– the first ever grown in Barnaoul.
The cook, never having seen such a vegetable, had
received instructions how to dress them, and managed
them to perfection; but unfortunately before sending
them to table (they are always given as a separate course),
he placed them upon the ice. The disappointment to our
host may well be imagined when I tell you he is a man
who likes good living, and had looked forward to his
dinner on this day with more than his usual satisfaction.
He was so very angry that he could not forbear leaving
the table on a visit to the cook, who received a good
lecturing, and a threat for the future if he ever sent
even a cold plate to table again. This was so far useful
that the remainder of the dinner was served up very
hot, but, alas! poor cook, he was doomed to get into
disgrace,
– for the ices he sent plates nearly red hot!

The Silver Mines of Solaier
– Tomsk
– Krasnoiarsk
– Travelling Paraclodnoi, a Mode of Transit to be avoided
– Arrival at Atchinsk
– Kindness of the Police-master
– Visits to Exiles
– Mr. Fahlenberg and his History
– The Cossack's Return to his Home
– The Abakan River
– Enormous Snake
– Return to Minousinsk
– A Plague of Plies
– Voyage on the Yenissey
– Beauties of the River Scenery.

Irkoutsk, September 3rd, 1850.

AFTER taking leave of our really kind friends of Barnaoul, we started for the silver mines of Solaier, a very
pretty place; here we passed a couple of days with the
Frazes, some friends we had made in Barnaoul. The
child and myself were loaded with presents. Thence we
started for Tomsk, where we spent three days, there
were so many friends to visit. Had we accepted the
whole of the invitations, we should have had to stay a
month. After leaving Tomsk in June, all was new to
us. We had a frightful journey over roads fearfully
cut up: for one whole month there had been rain,
with scarcely any cessation. On reaching Krasnoiarsk we
fortunately found there the Governor-General of Eastern
Siberia. It is at all times agreeable to meet old friends
but in this instance it was doubly so: we were in a town
where we knew no one, and the only acquaintance we
made was the governor. We stopped a week, and, dining
with them daily, we soon became acquainted. The
General told us he should leave Irkoutsk in the beginning of September, and urged us to arrive before that
time. From this town we were going on to the Yenissey.

I cannot tell you much about Krasnoiarsk. It is a
very clean town, and the little I saw of it pleased me;
but I do not say I should like to live there.

We left our equipage and the principal part of our
baggage in this town, and returned to Atchinsk, travelling
what is called paraclodnoi; that is, by a post-carriage
which is changed at each station; it is a kind of wagon
without springs, peculiar to the country. The distance
was near two hundred versts. I had often travelled thus
previously, but never over such roads. It was impossible
to sit, stand, or lie; and what made it worse for me was
that I held the child in my arms, so that when the shock
came he might not feel it. It was dreadful, not an instant
of rest the whole way. How my poor neck ached! indeed,
I ached in every part of me, but more particularly the
neck. It is bad enough travelling in a carriage with
springs over such a road, how gladly I would have ridden
the distance!

On reaching Atchinsk, we sent our Cossack with our
compliments to the police-master, stating our difficulties, and the reason we had left our carriage, and
begging, if it were only possible for him, to lend us a
light carriage to carry us to Minousinsk, whence we
would return it to him. He was exceedingly polite,
and immediately paid us a visit; he said he had not one
of his own, but would borrow one from a friend. After
what I have told you of the road you may imagine how
I thanked him, I felt so very grateful. He was likewise
amiable enough to offer us his house, and he would find
lodgings elsewhere: we thanked him, but said we must
start the moment we received the carriage.

From Atchinsk, where the road was very bad and the
jolts severe, I invariably offered up a prayer for the
young police-master: bad as it was, what would it have
been had he not kindly procured us the equipage!

We visited several mines on our way to Minousinsk,
which is more like a village than a town. We drove
to the house of the police-master, who courteously invited us to be his guests. We found him a most gentlemanly man: he had been exiled for some political offence,
and afterwards pardoned, but not allowed to return
to Petersburg. He was married to a very kind good-natured woman: but what a contrast between husband
and wife! he was a clever man, with a vast amount of information, whereas she could not even read. They had
no children of their own, but had adopted two: one of
these he had been left the guardian of, and the other they
had found lying in a forest amongst some underwood
some short time after their marriage, as they were
taking their customary walk. When we saw the young
lady she was about seventeen years of age; and they
were both well educated, having been taught by exiles
of 1825 living at this time in Minousinsk. There were
three of them, one quite an old man, and it was painful
to witness the desire they had to return to Petersburg:
two of them were brothers. They appeared weary of
existence; and they had no other means of subsistence
than what little money their friends annually sent to
them; though the doing so had been strictly prohibited.

Another exile whom we found living at a village a
short distance from Minousinsk had at one time resided
in the town, where to gain a livelihood he commenced
a school, and was doing remarkably well, but when it
became known to the authorities, they forbade his doing
so any longer. Being by this means left without any
resources, and an old man, he was forced to retire to the
country; when he took up his abode in the village where
we found him, and where he was occupied in cultivating
tobacco for his support.

On arriving at the village we enquired for his dwelling, which was shown to us by a peasant; and, there being
no one to announce us, we entered, as we should have
done into the abode of any villager. He was sitting by
the window, reading; and observing we were strangers,
he exhibited a little surprise, but arose, and raising his
cap bade us welcome. There was no mistaking the
noble gentleman, in spite of his costume and all that
encompassed him. Having presented to him letters from
his friends in Minousinsk, he read them; meanwhile
bidding us be seated, he then shook us warmly by the
hand, and appeared as pleased as if he had met with
old friends.

I do not know anything more painful than to find a
talented man with a highly cultivated mind placed in
such a position as that in which we found Mr. Fahlenberg.
He owned to the justice of his banishment, but deprecated in no measured terms the severity with which
he had been treated. 'I wished for nothing more,' he
exclaimed, 'than to gain an honest livelihood, whereas
they have forced me to do this,' and with bitterness he
opened his window, and showed the field of tobacco he
was cultivating. 'This,' said he, 'is the noble work of
which I am obliged to employ the few remaining years of
my existence; surely the punishment we have already
undergone is more than adequate to the crime we committed. Even my wife,' he continued, 'was persuaded by
her friends that I was dead, so remarried; but she would
never have done so had she believed I still existed; of
necessity I had no means of acquainting her to the contrary.' He went on to say, that a few years before he
had been advised to marry, seeing he was getting old,
and for the latter years of his life it would require
some one to take care of him; thus he had wedded the
daughter of a Cossack, a very good and really a superior
woman. They had two children, a girl and a boy: the
latter about seven years of age, a thorough little peasant,
as rough and wild as any one of them; the girl was a
beautiful fairy-like little creature, about eight or nine
years of age, on whom the exile expended much of
his time. She spoke French as well as if she had
been brought up in a town; and her parents hoped to
gain permission to send her to Irkoutsk to continue her
education; but I doubt of its being so good as that
which her father was giving her.

Mr. Fahlenberg told us his great enjoyment was when
his old friends and companions in exile came to visit
him, which they did from time to time; then they
would stay a few days with him, but at the end of these
few days, he added, 'they must leave me, and I am once
more left to my solitude, which for awhile is almost
unbearable.'

We now started for the Yenis-sey, Abakan, and Tashtyp. The first-named river we ascended as far as possible on horseback. Here was pretty scenery, and we took up
our abode in most lovely spots. One night we had a small
cart for our bedroom; we found it near a mill: our
dining-room was more spacious; and from it we easily
stepped into our drawingroom, carpeted with fresh
flowers, and with a blue canopy for the roof. From here
we saw the Taskill mountains, bedecked with a crest of
snow, reminding us once more of our dear old friends in
the Alatau. Tashtyp was our next point, the birthplace of
our Cossack, which for years he had not visited. Every
step of the road brought some pleasing recollections to
his mind, and the nearer home he drew the more loquacious he became. He was most anxious to see his adopted
father and mother. 'Such good old creatures,' he said;
'and, as I have not heard from them for more than a year,
perhaps they may be dead:' and then his eyes filled
with tears. 'Though I am not,' he continued, 'their
real son, I love them equally the same. I have never
known other parents; I was a foundling.'

The old couple came to see us, and begged of me to
intercede with the Governor for liberty for him to return
to the home of his childhood, at least till he had closed
their eyes. We left Tashtyp for the Abakan in a boat,
the old couple walking along the shore as far as it
was possible to go. They then bade us adieu, and, taking
an affectionate leave of their son, blessed all; and, commending us to the care of the Giver of all good, knelt
down as we pushed into the stream, and remained kneeling till a bend in the river hid us from their view. I was
sorry for the Cossack, as he turned to me with tears in
his eyes, and said, 'I am glad I have seen them, and the
more so as it was unexpected, but perhaps I may never
see the old folks again.' The Russians, especially the
lower classes, have an extraordinary love for children,
and even when they are not their own they still show
love and regard for them.

In parts the Abakan river reminded me greatly of
the Altin-Kool; it had the same lovely scenery, and at
night we always encamped on its shores. One night the
men prepared us a balagan on a stony spot, with a little
stream at its back running into the river, and the rocks
rising high above us; here we slept most delightfully.
I know nothing more agreeable than the falling asleep
where not a sound is heard save the rippling of the
stream close by, or the rustling of the leaves in the
branches above us. At daybreak we awoke, and observing by the look of the sky that we were going to have a
fine day, we hastened to rise. My husband, took his coat
from off the child, over whom, the night being chilly, he
had thrown it to keep him warm, when I was horrified,
for underneath it was coiled up at Alatau's feet, on the
quilt, an enormous snake. He bade me he still, and,
beckoning to the Cossack, pointed to the venomous brute.
The Cossack cut a stick with two prongs, and creeping
round to the back of the balagan, tossed the reptile out,
when he was quickly despatched by our men, who were
standing watching for the gentleman. While they
killed it with their whips they did swear at it. How fortunate it had not crept into the bed! After this intrusion
I always looked with suspicion at a rocky locality; indeed,
I may say a shudder came across me each time I made my
bed. I thanked God most fervently that my little fellow
had escaped the venomous bite. At Zmeinogorsk and
round about there, snakes are very numerous, but quite
harmless.

On Friday the 21st of July, we were once more installed under the hospitable roof of our kind friend, the
police-master of Minousinsk. The weather was fearfully hot, so that the rooms felt oppressive, and the more
so, as inside the dwelling all was dark, and I presumed
closed on account of the heat. Shortly after our arrival
a servant announced lunch; we entered the dining-room,
into which a little light had been admitted. I saw a
table, but only dimly; I could not possibly comprehend
it, it was one black mass. I stared, and on approaching
a little nearer, we evidently disturbed the party assembled, not round, but on the table: every particle was
densely covered with flies. Not a pin's head of the cloth
was to be seen, viands and everything were of one shade.
The host seemed to make light of the matter, saying
it was always so in summer, not a house was free; and,
did they not keep their doors and windows closed, they
would be unable to exist.

In Minousinsk we purchased a large boat, and, after
some necessary alterations, started in it on the 23rd for
Krasnoiarsk. The whole of our acquaintances accompanied us to the boat, and, taking a most affectionate
leave, wished us prosperity in our voyage on the
Yenis-sey. Each had a message to one or other of his
friends in exile. One of the banished brothers, in
bidding me farewell, said, 'Allow me to do so as a
brother to a sister, for my mother was an Englishwoman;' and tears stood in his eyes. Poor Fahlenberg, also, when we bade him adieu for ever, said to us:
'Whilst you have been with me I seemed for awhile to
forget my position and my sorrows, and talked on as
though I was back in the world again. Your visit has
done me no good. It appears ungrateful to say so; but
a few days will bring me back to my ordinary state of
mind, and I shall try to forget that you have been here.'
These poor men are more to be pitied than those we
meet with in Irkoutsk, who are living in comparative
luxury; but more of these in another letter.

Our voyage on the Yenis-sey was delightful. Calmly
seated in our boat, and at times drowsily lounging on
the benches, we contemplated the pretty scenery which
surrounded us; sometimes stopping for Mr. Atkinson
to sketch some lovely view, and at night bivouacking
in the woods or at a village, many of which enliven
the banks of the Yenis-sey. What a variety in our
travels! Last summer day by day we were on horseback for a hundred and twenty-three days in succession;
and this summer how little in comparison have we
mounted our steeds, and what a contrast between the
animals when we do! Then we went bounding along
on horses as wild and as beautiful as the scenery; but
these are drowsy, they appear to give no spring to the
spirits, and still it is impossible not to feel pleased.

The Kirghis, their steppes and mountains, are so
indelibly engraved on my heart, that fifty years hence,
should I live, every scene will be as vivid as at this
moment; it will ever be a source of pleasure to look
back on the happy days spent amongst them, and their
wild but beautiful scenery.

Shortly after our arrival at one village where we
stopped for the night, the principal man of the place
entered; at first he stood bolt upright at the door, like
a soldier, but, finding he was courteously received by
Mr. Atkinson, he seemed pleased, and bade us welcome
to the village. The road papers were handed to him,
which he took with a very low bow; and, having perused
them, he enquired if we were Russians, evidently not
comprehending what was meant by 'British subjects.'
To his question we simply replied 'No!' He waited
some short time, and then, bowing very low, asked
with a smile if we were Germans. Again we merely
answered 'No!' The poor fellow drew a long breath,
apparently at his wits' end. He waited about ten
minutes, gazing first at one and then at the other, and
withal a little mystified. At length he cleared his throat,
scratched his head, and smiling very sweetly, once more
bowed to the ground, and inquired if we were Groogians (meaning Georgians). Again we replied in the
negative: when I wish you could have seen the face of
the poor man, his hair appeared positively to stand on
end; he looked at us quite aghast, and wildly exclaimed,
'Is it possible that you are Chinese?' and, throwing
down the papers, rushed headlong out of the room,
whither no persuasions could induce him to return. We
left early the following morning, but saw nothing more
of him. All the inhabitants of the little village kept a
respectful distance; ordinarily they crowded round us to
have a sight of the wild animals. I presume the poor
official had mentioned, as he supposed, every nation
which dwelt on the face of the earth.

On July 30th, we paid a passing visit to Krasnoiarsk,
where we were most cordially received by Mr. and
Madame Padalka, with whom we dined; and we then
reembarked on board our little craft on our way to
the gold priesks, where we met an old acquaintance
of Mr. Atkinson's from the Oural. The reception was
charming, this gentleman never expecting to see my
husband more. The recognition was really boisterous.

All this, as you may judge, procured me a hearty
welcome. Here also we met with Mr. Vassielevsky,
the Gornoi Ispravonick, who gave us a most pressing
invitation to his place on the Peskino, which we visited
afterwards.

We learned that in this district the workmen employed in digging and washing the gold were all convicts,
to the number of 9,000; with but eighty Cossacks as a
guard, which is considered, and really is, a sufficient
number. They are all well-conducted men, and kept
in good order; and, besides, they are well fed. They
have bread in unlimited quantity, quass (a fermented drink made from rye meal), farinaceous food,
salt, and an allowance of one pound of meat daily.
On certain fête days, vodky is served out to them.
The director is then present to see fair play. The
Cossack whose duty it is to pour it out has a list of
the men's names, which he calls over, when each
man steps forward in his turn, and drinks to the
health of the director. Some of them, whether they
were teetotallers or only economists I could not find
out, brought vessels into which they poured the spirit,
for the purpose of afterwards selling it to their companions. I observed several pour their respective
allowances into one vessel, making common stock.

Whilst here, to our sorrow, we had a great deal of
rain, but to our friends it was a cause of rejoicing;
their great drawback being an insufficient supply of
water with which to wash the precious metal, indeed
the work is often stopped by the droughts of summer.

In this district was the priesk of our friend Mr. Astershoff of Tomsk; also that of Mr. Rizanoff of Ekaterinburg, both wealthy men. What rendered our little
expedition here most agreeable was the presence of
two or three ladies who had accompanied their husbands for the summer. Still it sometimes prevented
me seeing all I should otherwise have seen, as without
them I might have wandered about everywhere, and now
I was obliged to associate with my sex, not that I was
sorry to do so, but it debarred me from seeking novelty.

We had to pass some dangerous rapids on the Yenis-sey, and found great difficulty in procuring men to
accompany us. At length we started from the station
next to the rapids, and our old steersman called out to his
two comrades to join him in a prayer. They instantly
dropped their oars, and stood up in the boat, when the
old man put up a petition for our safety over the
coming dangers; we too joined our silent supplications to theirs, and hoped to pass the spot without
accident. The men then applied their oars, and quickly
took us into the middle of this mighty stream, which
was at this part gliding on smooth and tranquil.

About eight versts ere we reached the dreaded spot
we could hear the roaring of the water; and, as we
drew near, we could see the boiling flood. The scene
was truly grand. We were carried like a shot, on a line
with the first rocks. Our little boat was tossed like a
feather, and hurried forward at a fearful speed. We soon
reached a place awful to behold; the water recoiled
from some sunken rocks, and was tossed up in waves
which looked as though they would swallow our little
craft. I am sure there was not a heart but quailed at
the sight. A few seconds carried us over this into the
boiling current, and on we swept. No sooner was the
danger passed, than the men once more relinquished
their oars, and, removing their caps, offered up a
thanksgiving for our safety. This is a spot we shall
often remember.

Our boat carried us to Matigno. Thence we went
paraclodnoi to the priesks. On our way we passed
versts upon versts of forest, where was seen nothing
more than the blackened and charred stumps of trees,
which lay scattered in all directions, some still smouldering. About ten days previous we had noticed a
thickness in the atmosphere, which we at first took to
be fog, but the nearer we drew towards Krasnoiarsk
the more visible it became. There we enquired what
it was, but no one knew, and all appeared perfectly
indifferent regarding it. It had been burning about
a fortnight, and was only extinguished by a heavy fall
of rain. A fortnight earlier we should have been unable
to reach the priesks, where all had really become
alarmed. It is no uncommon circumstance for the
woods to take fire; every place is so dry and parched
that the least spark will set them burning, and the
Cossacks and hunters are exceedingly careless. When
they make a fire in the forest, they probably do not
quite extinguish it, and then a wind rises and wafts the
burning ashes, and does all the mischief. There was
another source of regret attending this fire, it had
driven away all the birds, thus spoiling the sport.

Matigno lies on the Toungooz, which was very difficult to reach, as the men had to pull against the
stream. When we arrived at the junction of the
Toungooz with the Yenis-sey, it was curious to see the
two rivers as though almost they were struggling for
the mastery, rolling their waters along side by side for
some distance, not deigning to mingle; and it was not
to be wondered at, that the clear crystal stream of the
former should disdain to be joined to the latter.

I must now give you some account of my little fellow.
In the first place I have a difficulty in writing, for he
is up on my chair and pulling my pen out of my hand,
probably thinking I have written enough, and wants me
to play with him. He is nearly two years of age, and
just as early as he was in walking so late is he in talking; he walked without being taught. The first days
we spent in a house, I was too busy unpacking to pay
any attention to him. He was left to crawl about alone,
as I had not yet hired a nurse, when he surprised me
by getting on to his feet and marching along; he fell
down, but was up again in a moment without a
whimper. What made me so proud of his walking was,
that he had no opportunity of learning, whereas with
other children who walk at nine months and a half
much pains have been taken. His talking was really
extraordinary, for he uttered not a sentence till he began
talking right off. At one time we feared he would be
dumb. I presume the reason of his not talking earlier
was caused by the confusion of two languages; naturally
we spoke to him in English, at least his father did
always, whereas strangers spoke in Russian.

The little man grows tall, and his hardy conduct
makes him the admiration of all who see him. He was
heard of in Irkoutsk long before he arrived, as General
Mouravioff had told the Princess Volkonsky about him,
and said he should like to steal him. I can tell you I
am mightily puffed up at all the praise he receives.
He was ill once this summer for five days, whilst at the
priesks; it was probably a cold, for he is so passionately
fond of bathing, that we had a difficulty in keeping him
out of the water when on the Yenis-sey. Once he stayed
in the water three quarters of an hour, when the weather
was not very warm, this he does as the boat moves on;
it was too much for him. The doctor at the priesks
advised us to make him a decoction from herbs which
he brought me; and tried hard to persuade me to give
the child medicine, but I declined. Mme. Vassielevsky
was also very attentive to the little fellow. Now,
thank God, he is quite well, and as wild as a young
colt; never quiet but when he has a book, then he sits
and talks for hours to the pictures. Toys he has none,
nor did he ever have any.

On our first arrival at Matigno, we went to the residence of Rizanoff, but on our return we went to that of
Astershoff, where we found a most gentlemanly man in
the director; and, though perfect strangers, he received
and treated us with all the kindness imaginable. Alatau
so won on the affections of himself and his wife during
the two days we stopped with them, that, having no
children of their own, they wished to adopt him, said
he should inherit all they had (and they were rich),
and endeavoured to show how much happier the child
would be, settled quietly down, than leading such a
roaming life as we are doing; but, as you may suppose,
it was of no avail.

The first night I bathed him and took him to bed, when
the director asked to be allowed to sit beside him till
he fell asleep. I heard him bid Alatau when he awoke
next day not to disturb me, but to take his clothing and
slip out of the room; he obeyed to the letter, for, on
opening my eyes in the morning, I found he had disappeared, garments and all. On going out I found the
director had himself bathed and dressed the child, who
was comfortably seated on his knees, perfectly happy,
and as though they were old friends. And the night
following, on going into the room, I found the child
asleep with his hand lying in that of this great man. I
positively had difficulty in drawing him from the room.

When we parted from these good people, they conducted us part of the way, and I verily believe it was to
have the pleasure of carrying Alatau; they would not
permit me to touch him, or to do the least thing for
him, and when we bade adieu tears stood in the eyes of
the director. All kinds of good things had been prepared for the boy to eat on the road.

We found our carriage waiting for us at Kansk,
whither it had been forwarded; we reached that place
in one which had been kindly lent to us by M. Vassielevsky; we then started direct for Irkoutsk, where we
now are, and I think it likely we shall go no farther
this year, but leave till next summer our visit to the
Trans-Baikal, and then I certainly expect we shall
return to Petersburg by the winter roads.

Irkoutsk is not at all an ugly town, on the contrary it
is rather pretty, though as yet I have seen but little of
it. I will shortly try and give you some idea of it, as
well as of the inhabitants. I have not mentioned that
I had a most beautiful little malachite paper-weight
presented to me, with native gold on the top. M. Vassielevsky gave it to me, and it is impossible for me to
retain it in my possession without an order to do so,
which I am obliged to be very careful of; for, were I to
lose it, there would be a chance of my remaining in
Siberia for ever, as I should be sent to the mines for
defrauding the government. Much as I like Siberia, it
would lose some of its charms were my stay compulsory
– from choice I should not object.

I fully expected to find a letter from you lying at
the post-office, whither my husband went immediately
on our arrival. I cannot tell you how ill I bore the
disappointment.

Society in Irkoutsk
– The Volkonskoi Family
– Artists in Exile
– The Princess and the sleepy Englishman
– A Russian's Opinion of the English Aristocracy
– Saintly Pugilism
– The Domavoi, or House Spirit
– Earthquake.

Irkoutsk, January 1851.

I HAVE had to go through the usual round of visits
necessary for strangers to make on their first arrival.
From the Princess Troubitskoy, whose acquaintance we
made at the Governor-General's, I got a list of the persons to whom it is considered indispensable for us to
introduce ourselves, Madame Mouravioff having kindly
invited her to meet us. To the Princess Volkonskoi we
had letters. These ladies, with four or five exceptions,
are the persons with whom we visit most. Unfortunately within the last month death has occurred in three
of the best families here, which has naturally thrown a
gloom over this circle of society; then also the absence
of the Governor-General makes a great difference, as
all are very gay when he is here. Now, with the exception of a few dinner-parties, there are no amusements
whatever going on in the town. This, as you are
aware, suits me far better than all the gaieties they
could offer; and we have social intercourse, which is
very enjoyable.

I dare say you would like to know how we are lodged.
We have four very nice rooms, in the house of a merchant's widow, to which there is a separate entrance,
rendering them very agreeable; we have also a kitchen
to ourselves, and what I find comfortable is that it is
separated from the dwelling-house, being on the opposite
side of the court-yard. The house itself is pleasantly
situated on the banks of the Angara, which is now a
mass of ice; having been frozen over on the 10th of
December, and on the 11th being strong enough to bear.
To the astonishment of everyone here, Alatau has been
bathed constantly in this river; the water is so cold
that no one ever dreams of bathing in it; our little
man enjoys his plunge amazingly. Every river we
have passed since his birth he has been bathed in.

In this town we find many exiles; indeed they are
fairly established here, some of them possessing very
handsome houses. Those with whom we visit most
are the Troubitskoy and Volkonskoi; in whose houses
we generally meet their companions in misfortune.
Although these men are not blameless, it is impossible
not to feel a deep interest in them; they are some of
Russia's cleverest men grown old in exile.

The first house we visited was that of Volkonskoi,
and we found there a most agreeable family; the
daughter is on the point of marriage with the private
secretary of the Governor-General. The princess is a
clever woman, and many an agreeable evening have we
passed with her. She has lived to regret her voluntary
banishment; which must be keenly felt by one who is
fond of society, the great world, and all its pleasures.
She had been but a short time married ere her husband
was banished.

Speaking of our journey, the prince remarked, with
a smile, that the result of travelling was at times very
peculiar; 'for an example' said he, 'take myself. I was
an impetuous youth, I went to Germany, France, and
England, I then returned to my own country, where I
unfortunately found that the effect of those travels was
to lead to Siberia and the mines.' The prince is a great
favourite with us, his manners are so simple and unostentatious. Any morning at an early hour, if chance
led you to the market, where he is well known to every
peasant, there you would find him purchasing the
day's provisions for the family; and after he had
passed up and down, and haggled here and there, and
gathered all the news from his different friends, for
he has many among the peasantry, you might see him
wending his way home with geese or turkeys, or something or other, under his arm, and wearing an old cap
and coat which would be almost rejected by the poorest
peasant, but with a mien dignified and noble, and a
countenance that it would do your heart good to see.
He has land on which he grows different crops, which,
it is said in Irkoutsk, his wife purchases from him.
The house in which she dwells with her children is large
and commodious, but the prince occupies an apartment
in a small building in the court-yard.

As a characteristic of the man, I must describe to you
a visit he paid to see an exhibition of horsemanship.
He delights in novelty as much as any one, but he is
never to be seen among the gentry of the place: he pays
like the peasantry, and takes his position beside them.
I asked him why he did so; with a smile he replied:

'You surely would not have me presume; you know I
am one of them, and I always like to keep my place.'

The prince often gives us a call; and on one of these
occasions he asked leave to bring a companion in exile
who has a great taste for drawing, and by means of his
pencil maintains himself and a brother who is unfortunately deranged, grief having impaired his intellect. He paints flowers and birds, which he executes
in most exquisite style, but unhappily his colours
are bad, fading entirely away at the end of a few
years. Mr. Atkinson presented him with a box of
Winsor and Newton's, with which Mr. Barissoff was
charmed; he came several times to watch my husband
drawing, and to admire his colours, before he spoke of
his own miserable ones.

His first introduction to us was amusing. The prince
had made the appointment; and, when they entered the
room, he presented his companion by patting him on
the head, and saying, 'Allow me to introduce to you a
conspirator.' The little man could not help smiling,
for indeed he is no bigger than I am, if as big; there
was something so ludicrous in the idea of this little man,
with his irresistible expression of gentleness, being a
conspirator, that the prince himself, after saying it,
laughed heartily. It is a source of great pleasure to
Barissoff to call upon my husband whenever he can
manage to absent himself from his brother, who cannot
endure his absence, and who often becomes greatly excited, so that he is afraid to leave him long alone.

I have been presented with a few beautiful sketches
by Mr. Barissoff, which have been made expressly for
my album. I am sure you will be gratified by seeing
them; they are the birds, flowers, and fruits of Siberia.
I have six drawings, they are superb, and I appreciate
them highly.

Amongst those who struggle for an existence by their
talent, and barely manage to live, is a Pole; and many
Poles reside in Irkoutsk. This gentleman being a
brother of the brush is one of our constant habitués:
we are become mutually attached; one cannot but
sympathise with men whose only crime is the defence
of their country. He was an officer, and taken prisoner
when in the act of stepping into his carriage to make
a foreign tour; a few hours later and he would have
been beyond the reach of those who doomed him to exile.

We are very frequent visitors at the house of the
Princess Troubitskoy, a most amiable, clever, and
motherly woman, strongly attached to her husband and
children, she and the prince devoting all their energies to the education of their eldest daughter, who
was born in exile, and has well repaid their efforts,
being a most clever and accomplished girl; but her
two sisters have been educated at the Imperial Institution in Irkoutsk, where one of them still remains. The
princess told me that, without her knowledge or sanction, her mother, the Countess Laval, had applied for
and obtained permission from the emperor to have
them admitted into this institution, that when the order
arrived she was perfectly horrified, but dared not refuse
to send them for fear of giving offence. Had she declined sending them, the emperor, she thought, would
not grant any favour that might be asked for them at
a later period. One great point she gained was having
them home in the evening. There was a marked contrast between the home and public education. The
princess speaks English as well nearly as an Englishwoman. The eldest daughter also speaks it well; as
she does French, German, and naturally Russian. I
say naturally, but many Russians speak the foreign
languages better than they do their own. A lady once
told me that out of the whole of her acquaintance, she
knew but five who spoke and wrote correctly in the
Russian language.

The princess often entertains us with anecdotes of
past times. She told us one of a countryman of ours, a
Mr. Hill, who travelled here. Dining with them one
day, and the heat being oppressive, she went with him
after dinner into the garden to take coffee. Here she
began to ply her needle, and relate a story for his
amusement, when finding he made no reply to some
question she put to him in the middle of it, she looked
up from her work, and found her guest fast asleep.
Much surprised, and feeling herself in a most awkward
situation, she hesitated whether to leave him or sit
still: if she left him, she thought he might fancy she
was offended; and if she remained, should she make
any remark about the heat sending him to sleep?
Whilst she was in this perplexed state of mind he
awoke from his slumbers, and made some observation
about the story, but without the slightest allusion to,
or apology for, his want of politeness. However, the
princess went on without hesitation from where she
observed he had last heard it, but, alas! for human
weakness, she had not proceeded far when she heard
he was once more in the land of dreams. When he
next woke up, he, with all the coolness imaginable,
remarked that he had just had a most delightful dream!

Another story related to his journey to Kiachta.
Mr. Hill had engaged a German servant who spoke a
little French; and on their arrival in Kiachta there was
a large dinner-party given by the director of the
custom-house, to which our countryman was invited.
He determined that he would take his servant to attend
upon him, and stand behind his chair as interpreter.
On taking his place at table what was his surprise and
horror when he observed that this man, who had represented himself as Mr. Hill's travelling companion, had
a seat next to him! He was forced to swallow his resentment, not wishing to make any disturbance before
all the company. The German had formerly been a
sausage-maker, so when they started on their journey
he thought he would speculate in his old trade, and
made a large quantity; and on the road Mr. Hill was fed
on these and ham, in which also he was trading. Arrived
at their destination, he sold those which remained. The
director's servant having bought some, a dish of them
was produced at table, on observing which the German
became exceedingly communicative, remarking to those
sitting near him, 'Those are our sausages, we brought
them with us, and we have more left;' intending probably to make a fresh supply if he managed to get
orders. Thus poor Mr. Hill, who fortunately did not
understand the conversation, was looked upon by many
as engaged in that delectable trade; and the more so
as, amongst some classes in Russia, all Englishmen are
looked upon as shopkeepers and merchants.

An aide-de-camp of the general's visiting one day at
our house, in company with the son of a rich merchant,
conversation turned upon England, her politics, her
ministers, and her nobility. He spoke of all in a most
disparaging way, alluding to Sir Robert Peel and his
origin; and concluded by asking what rank we had,
saying they had all risen from the class of merchants.
Mr. Atkinson calmly heard him on to the end, and
then said it was a subject he should never attempt to
discuss with him; 'for,' said he, 'I perceive when the
Almighty created you, He gave you the title of prince,
and said, "That is your portion, go forth into the world;"
but to Solavioff' (turning to the merchant's son) 'and
myself He gave brains, and said, "That is all I can do
for you, go forth into the world:" and if, as you state,
our nobles spring from such, it is well.' You may judge
that after this he never visited our house again. I
will tell you when we meet what the prince's father is
minister of.

Another family we visit is that of Rosguildaoff,
where we spend many an agreeable hour. He was
formerly Hetman of the Cossacks, now he is superintendent of Astershoff's priesk on the Yenis-sey.
He is a clever and well-informed man, and his wife is a
true Siberian, hospitable and generous, but thoroughly
imbued with all their superstitions. We were dining
with them one day, when the old lady, who had been
the same morning to pay her devotions to Saint Irkout,
had returned with a marvellous story, with which she
was so impressed that she could think of nothing else.
It related to a soldier, who, with many others, had
entered the sacred edifice to offer his devotions to this
great saint. The regular course was gone through, and
he had just stepped forward to kiss the hand of his
patron; but, before he had time to press his lips to it,
the offended saint raised it, and with one blow gave
him such a sound box on the ear, that he sent the poor
bewildered soldier sprawling. The story appeared to
me so extremely ludicrous, that in spite of every
effort I could not restrain my laughter, and, had it
not been for the timely aid of the daughter, I should
never have reestablished myself in the good graces of
the old lady: really, the credulity of mortals is wonderful. I suggested that probably the man was not quite
sober, and, having fallen, had invented the fable to
cover his own delinquencies, a supposition which horrified her.

A prevailing superstition is that of the Domavoi,
literally, house spirit. He is found in every dwelling,
and is as much cared for as any other member of the
household, if not more; and woe betide the unfortunate individual who neglects or offends this important
personage. His good-will is propitiated by the offerings which are daily made to him, food being placed
every night in the cellar, which he invariably partakes
of. A whole loaf of black bread is at his disposal; of
which he eats moderately; and he has a knife in his
pocket, because the bread is always found cut. When
he has demolished one they put another in its place. I
asked the person who related this to me if she really
believed it, whereupon she begged of me not to disbelieve her statements, as the Domavoi might be offended, which they easily were, and to be revenged
they sometimes destroyed the building.

On the evening of the 30th of September, we
experienced here in Irkoutsk an earthquake. The
morning had been fine and frosty, with a fog rising
from the Angara. About ten minutes past six in the
evening, we were sitting taking tea, when we heard a
slight noise as if a light carriage was passing, then the
windows began to crack, and immediately the house
rocked to and fro, giving us a sharp shake in our chairs.
The sky was without a cloud, and not a breath of wind
stirring. I own to feeling a great dread come over me,
much more than anything I experienced in Kopal.
There were no stone buildings there, here we were in
one; and another thing, my little boy was away from
me, asleep in another room. Earthquakes are not at
all uncommon in Irkoutsk.

I think I must have worn out your patience with my
tedious descriptions. I have merely done your bidding;
you were pleased to say you have been interested with
my scribbling, if so, I am satisfied, and would do much
to please you. My husband bids me say he intends
writing to you shortly; I hope he may do so, as his
letters are always amusing. I cannot at present tell
you what will be our plans for next summer, many
have been suggested. When my husband becomes
more fully acquainted with the country, I will let you
know in what direction we shall go. It will be in a
new region, and among scenes of a totally different
character; but I doubt if we shall find them as fine as
those we have already passed through. However, you
shall have a faithful account on our return, as there
will be no means of sending letters from the parts we
shall visit. My husband says, should we be taken and
marched off to Pekin, as presents to the Brother of the
Sun, we must make the best of it when before his
shining majesty; he says he does not believe he will
treat us unkindly. I cannot say I entertain any fear
on the subject; it would be an incident in life, and
highly interesting to see the country.

I MUST thank you for your letter, which I have just
received. I am glad to have it before leaving Irkoutsk,
which we do this month, and I expect our trip will be
highly interesting. You reproach me for not having
mentioned Christmas. There was really nothing to
speak about, except, it might be, to remark the contrast between a right merry English one, and such as we
find here. I wish you could have seen how we spent
our Christmas in Kopal, I think you would have been
diverted. I have become quite a proficient in Russian
dances, as well as my husband, who says if we should
ever deign to exhibit our acquirements in this way, we
shall decidedly produce a most striking effect; when we
do you shall be the judge.

I entirely forgot in my former letters to mention a
little incident with my landlady, and as you like to
know the customs of the country we are passing through,
this will give you an idea of one. There is a great
luxury attached to every house in Siberia, that is, a
bath. The first week of our arrival I enquired whether
we could have it heated, and I then arranged with my
husband that he should go first, the great heat of them
being to me insupportable. When all was prepared,
Madame Sinitzin herself came to tell me, and gave me
all the particulars about the management of it. I then
asked whether her coachman could go with Mr. Atkinson
(this being customary in other parts of the country). She
looked aghast when I asked her, and enquired if I was
not going with him. 'I!' I repeated, 'go with him to the
bath?' The very idea set me off into a fit of laughing,
which highly offended the good creature. Quite huffed,
she told me that when her husband was living, she
allowed no one to perform the office of washing him but
herself; and that it was what every good wife ought to
do, and what every good Siberian did. I endeavoured to
compose my features, and soothe her ruffled temper by
telling her it was a thing unheard of with us; that
indeed I believed my husband would faint at the bare
mention of it; but she still held to her former opinion,
that I was the proper person to wash him.

We were invited by the civil governor of the town to
witness the ceremony of the presentation of the Chinese
ambassadors to him. I was sadly disappointed, there
was literally nothing in it; not one tenth part so interesting as our introduction to our Chinese friends at
Chougachac; they only seemed exceedingly awkward
sitting on chairs; there was neither the noble air nor the
intelligent features of our friends. The interview was
very short; and they were regaled with sweetmeats which
you would have been amused to see them partake of,
but at the same time you would not have relished the
sight; and they were then quartered in the town. It is
customary to send them a live sheep daily during their
stay. I was greatly entertained by these high officials
of his Celestial majesty demanding and receiving money
instead of the sheep and candles with which they had
been supplied, saying it would be more useful to them,
as they wished to purchase a few articles in Irkoutsk.
They had more the appearance of brigands than anything else; men who would have made you look to your
weapons of defence, had they been met with in the wilds
or mountains of Siberia.

I went a few days since with my friend Miss Rosguildaoff to the bazaar, to buy a few articles I wanted for
our journey. In one of the magazines was a lady past
the heyday of life
– she was still good-looking, and
must at one time have been very pretty. As she bowed to
my friend on entering, I had curiosity enough to enquire
who she was, and was told she was a lady who had been
lost and won at cards. I asked for an explanation, and
learned that she was a Siberian beauty, married young
to a gay and rich man, who was, what is very common
in Siberia, a great gambler, so that in a few years he
ran through the greater part of a large fortune. His
wife knew nothing of this; but her eyes were opened
when one day a gentleman arrived at their house, which
was out of town, and claimed her as his property.

It appeared that the husband and the claimant had
been playing the whole night, and the sun had risen high
in the heavens before the contest closed; when the former rose a ruined man, having lost every kopeek he was
possessed of, besides land, house, furniture, horses, and
even wife; she was his last stake. He asked his adversary
whether he would accept her as a stake, he had hoped
by this last hazard to retrieve his losses: perhaps it was
fortunate for her that he did not, for she has now lived
with her victor for twenty years, leading a most happy
and exemplary life. It is certainly a novel way for
husbands to get rid of their wives.

The Angara opened on the morning of the 21st March,
and lovely it is to see the beautiful crystal stream again
free from ice. But, unfortunately, as the sun gains
power, it is almost unbearable to dwell where we do;
every window and door is obliged to be closed. During
the winter months, all the refuse of the town was carted
and shot down on the banks of this river, by order of the
authorities, as the current is continually washing away
and undermining them, and they expected by this
means to prevent further damage: but the rays of the
sun beating on this accumulation of foul matter load
the air with anything but a perfume of roses; and owing
to this exhalation there is great mortality in the town,
principally among children. This makes me uneasy, as
our little fellow has been taken suddenly unwell; he is
asleep, otherwise I should not be able to continue my
letter to you, as he has not been out of my arms a
moment this day. I am forced to walk about continually with him, which is now difficult for me, as he grows
heavy, and will not allow his nurse to approach him.
We likewise have slightly felt the effects of this unhealthy state of the atmosphere, and intend hastening
our departure. All our friends are recommending us
to take the advice of a doctor about Alatau, but I will
not hear of such a thing; I ask if they have cured one
child, if they can show me they have done good, then I
will consult one, not otherwise. Leave him to nature,
and there is a chance of his life, but employ one of the
doctors they have here, and I do not believe there would
be the slightest, though I cannot say we are tranquil
about him.

The Princess Troubitskoi called to see him, having
heard he was ill; the boy is a great favourite with the
family. She remarked how much he had improved in
looks since our arrival. I told her she would indeed say
so had she seen him when he was first born, and the
horror we experienced at the sight; he being the exact
counterpart in features of a little Kalmuk in our service
when on the Katoonia, whom I surnamed Flibberty-gibbet; anyone more atrociously ugly I never beheld. On
looking at the boy our exclamations were simultaneous.
Flibberty was the most good-natured brave little fellow
I ever saw, full of fun, and he was much admired by us;
but I was not pleased my boy should be like him in anything but his bravery. He told me (although not more
than twenty) that he had a wife and children, I really
forget how many; he was greatly diverted because I expressed surprise. Though it is a matter of no importance
whether a boy is good-looking or not, provided he is
manly, still the princess consoled me by saying he will
grow up a very handsome man, all ugly babies do,
and instanced her own children; the plain one having
been a most beautiful child, and the others who are so
beautiful, for they are indeed beautiful, having been
plain children. I hope she may be a true prophet, as
it is always more agreeable to a mother's feelings to see
a pleasant countenance than otherwise; not that Alatau
is so ugly now. At least, there is a satisfaction in
knowing that it is not his looks that gain him so many
friends.

Abrupt Departure from Irkoutsk
– Mineral Baths
– Again en route for the Mountains
– The White and Black Irkout
– Visit a Gold Priesk
– Lead Mine
– A Rainbow as seen from a Mountain
– Exploration of the Valley of Djemalouk
– Extraordinary Aspects of the Scene
– Crater in the Valley of Khi-yol
– Rapid Rising of the Waters
– Unsafe Camping Ground
– Kind reception at a Bouriat Aoul
– Difficulties of Mountain Travel
– Valley of the Oka
– Monko-seran-xardick
– Lamist Temple
– Voyage on the Baikal
– Clearness of the Water
– Visited by a Robber
– A salt Zavod
– Servants with Characters
– A wholesale Murderer.

Irkoutsk, September 1851.

I ONCE more take up my pen to address you; months
have elapsed since my last letter, and we have rambled
far, and visited superb localities, of which my feeble
efforts can never give you any adequate idea. Toil and
fatigue we have undergone; they were to be expected,
and I should have thought nothing about it, but the
bad weather we have encountered I certainly was not
prepared for; it is not exactly what one would choose
–
to be constantly wet through, with not a dry thread on
one. Notwithstanding this little drawback, I have
enjoyed my trip amazingly; and have returned, I hope,
wiser and better, having learned how little is necessary
to render us happy.

I must tell you why my last letter was finished so
abruptly. Alatau, as I said, was not well, he afterwards
became very ill indeed, daily growing worse. We were
urged by all friends to put off our journey; but instead
of doing so we hastened our departure, leaving Irkoutsk
on the 23rd of May. Many friends called to take leave of
us; and one lady proposed, although she has a number of
children of her own, that we should leave Alatau with
her. She said our life was so unsettled, and unfit for a
child; and that one more in a family was nothing, and
she would gladly adopt him. I thanked her, and said
it was on his account we were leaving, and most decidedly I should not stir without him; but that I
appreciated her kind offer all the same.

On arriving at Koultook, a village on the Baikal, I
found the child worse. I then began to reproach myself
for having left in spite of all remonstrances, and said so
to Mr. Atkinson, who declared that, if he were not better
after visiting some hot mineral springs where we were
going, we should return to Irkoutsk. We slept at
Koultook, as we wished to see the officer of that place,
and the following evening arrived at our destination.
The little man grew worse; and I was all anxiety
till I had plunged him into the bath, there being one
into which the spring runs within the building. I did
not detain him a moment longer than necessary, and
then preparing his bed I laid him down, when he was
quickly asleep. Seeing him sleeping so comfortably, I
started with my husband for a stroll, leaving the Cossack
on guard, and requesting him to send for me should he
awake.

The spring gushes out of a rock in a small but
picturesque valley, with high rocks on each side, and
the river Ikouogoon running through it. The spring is
on the left side, where the archbishop has built a house
for the accommodation of pilgrims and visitors, who often
frequent this spot. Opposite a mass of rock, over-shadowed and surrounded by trees, stands a small but
pretty church, the effect of which was beautiful;
so calm and quiet; and shut out from the noise of
the busy world, with no other sound save the murmuring and rippling of the water as it flowed over
the stones.

We had crossed the river to examine the church.
As we stood looking at it the priest joined us and entered into conversation; he showed us the interior,
the paintings were very poor; still it was pretty. He
then took us a short walk up the valley to point out the
scenes which he admired; but all that could be said of
them was, that they were pretty, quiet, and homely
– a
place where you would expect a hermit to take up his
abode, nothing grand. Our new friend would have gone
farther, but I declined, saying I dared not go on account
of having a sick child; on which he told me to be very
careful, and avoid bathing him in the spring, 'for,' said
he, 'if you do, you will kill him to a certainty. Many,'
he continued, 'come here thinking to cure themselves
by these waters; but all die who bathe in them, not one
survives; and I always warn them, but they will not be
persuaded: we had a man died here about a month
since, who came imagining this place would do him
good.' You may suppose that every word he uttered
went like a dagger to my heart, for I had been similarly
advised in Irkoutsk, but would listen to no one.

The priest entered our room, where he sat chatting a
long time. I never watched for the departure of a guest
with such anxiety as I watched for his; at length he
took his leave, when I gave vent to my pent-up feelings
in showers of tears. I had not courage to tell him that
I had already bathed the child; and, with a heart overflowing with grief, had been obliged to be gay and
talk, the poor priest little guessing what anguish he had
caused me.

I lay down to rest, not hoping for much sleep; lately
the boy had kept us continually awake; however, like a
child, I wept myself to sleep, and was awakened by a little
voice calling out 'I am hungry.' I can tell you I started
to my feet pretty quickly, for he had not tasted food since
leaving Irkoutsk, and was so reduced that he had not
strength to stand. On looking at my watch I was surprised to find that it was nearly five o'clock, he had
slept without moving the whole night. I was not long
making my toilette, and, as the bath had produced such
a marvellous effect, before breakfast I plunged him in
again, and from that hour dated his recovery. We had
merely intended passing a night here; but as the waters
appeared to have done the boy so much good, we resolved
to spend a couple of days; at the end of which he was so
much improved as to be able to walk again. It seemed
almost miraculous that in so short a space of time could
have been worked so great a change. I was very careful
not to let him remain long in the bath; just sufficient
time to wash him in the evening, and in the morning
a single plunge.

From this place we started for the mountains. What
scenes of winter and summer we passed over! At times
our resting-place was a carpet of flowers, at others we
spread our bear-skins on the snow, and one night Alatau
asking for water, when I got it ice was in it. In some spots
we passed over vegetation had not commenced, whilst
in others close by everything was in bloom. Before
reaching the White Irkout we had to ride over a bed of
ice. To me it was a singular sight: active when all
beneath was frozen; the trees budding, while the stems
were buried deep in snow.

To tell you of the sublime scenery on the White and
Black Irkout (so called because the former is always
white and foaming, and the latter black as Erebus) would
almost be a repetition of what I have already said.
I will only mention that up the White Irkout we came
upon a most glorious scene: the torrent had cut a passage
through the mountain, just like a great portal; this, with
the water rushing and foaming through, had a magical
effect.

After leaving these rivers we had a mountain to
ascend and cross, called Nouka Daban, which was
difficult on account of the heavy rains we had had,
indeed, the horses could scarcely maintain their footing.
On arriving at the summit our path was over a dreary
waste, without either tree or shrub, but plenty of snow,
both old and fresh. A keen cutting wind was blowing,
which made us shiver and our teeth chatter. We came
upon two lakes, in one of which the Black Irkout has
its source, and in the other, two versts farther on, the
Oka. Our path lay between these, and difficult I can
tell you it was, being a bog or morass, into which our
horses sank above the saddle flaps; this only happens
after heavy rains, or the melting of the snow in the
upper ranges. Having passed this, we descended into
the valley of the Oka, when the rain began pouring
down in torrents, which made us glad to seek for a spot
to encamp. Could you have seen us seated within our
canvass dwelling, with the rain pouring in torrents outside, I think it likely you would have thought us the
most miserable beings in existence. Whereas, could you
have comprehended our feelings, you would have known
that with a shelter, frail though it was, from the raging
storm; with a cheerful blaze in front, appreciated the
more on account of the difficulty we had in raising it;
–
and with a glass of hot tea, we thought ourselves superlatively happy, especially after what we had passed
through: even the boy crept close to us, and looked
with a pleased smile on the crackling logs.

We now started for a gold priesk belonging to a
gentleman in Irkoutsk. We were acquainted with both
the directors, one being the stepson of the lady in whose
house we were living in Irkoutsk, and the other an exiled Pole, as good a creature as ever lived. His joy at
seeing us was great. We have been to places where
every luxury was to be had; here, humble though everything was, we received a most hearty welcome from
our friend Napoleon. He never allowed us to give him
any other name. The most polite way of addressing
a person in Russia is by their Christian name coupled
with that of the father. This mode of addressing him
he begged of me to drop, it was Russian, 'and in the
company of my friends I wish to forget the country,'
he said.

I had a most horrible fit of indigestion at this place,
solely brought on by a dislike to disoblige. Although the
dinner hour was an early one, I never would consent to
sup. I invariably made a good tea, and this I found
sufficient. However, one evening whilst at the priesk (we
made it our head-quarters for some days) Napoleon
came to tell me he had found out I had a penchant for
kidneys, and I surely would not refuse. I said, 'No! I
would not.' Besides it was really nothing. However,
when we went to supper, I cannot picture to you the
horror I experienced when I saw smoking on the table
a bullock's kidney, boiled. I positively had not courage
to say I could not partake of it, my friend looked so
supremely happy. I really fancied I should be ill. Had
I been hungry, as I have been many a time, I should, I
doubt not, have enjoyed it. There have been times
when the very dust from our rusks was considered a
luxury; but to eat this, and not hungry, was horrible.

Since leaving Irkoutsk scarcely a day has passed
without storms of thunder and rain. These have greatly
damaged the machinery, besides washing away the gold
sand. In ordinary times this is not a very profitable
place; indeed, I believe it will not be worked next summer. It is situated close to the frontiers of China, and
I should not be surprised if large quantities of gold
march in that direction, indeed many believe they do.

From this place we visited a lead mine belonging to
a Frenchman. On the road to it we passed many
Bouriat winter dwellings, sheltered in a pretty well-wooded valley, with a broad and rapid stream running
through it. These people differ from the Kirghis in
having fixed abodes. They are exceedingly aristocratic,
possessing both summer and winter dwellings. Farther
on we found them in their summer habitations, surrounded by numbers of horses and cattle, but few
sheep. The men are more industrious than the Kirghis,
though not so gentlemanly-looking; whereas the women,
some of them, were really pretty, which is probably owing
to their not being so hard worked.

To reach Mr. Alibere's mine we had a mountain to
ascend from the valley of the Oka, which led us into a
region of lakes, near which the road was very bad, caused
by the deep morass, where we were floundering about
in mud and water at every step we took. Unpleasant
though it was, we had crossed worse places; and we rather
astonished our host when we told him so. Once arrived, we found everything we could desire except cleanliness, and this it was impossible to have, the black lead
penetrating everything. Our host had wisely built a bath,
a very necessary precaution. He has a farm some ten
versts distant, so that his table was supplied with butter,
cream, and vegetables, fresh daily; this was more than we
expected to find, I never thought to have even a potato.

From this mountain, which is dome-shaped, I saw
what to me was a wonderful sight, and the effect of
which was beautiful, viz. a rainbow beneath, not above us;
I never saw such a thing before, nor have I seen it since.

We had some difficulty with Alatau over the morass,
so resolved to invest a little money in the purchase
of a pair of reindeer from a Samoiyede family,
the only one said to be existing in these regions.
They live in tents like the Tartars, conical and
covered with skin; their dress also consists of skins.
However, we found it a useless investment. The
saddle was continually getting twisted, and I learned
from our men that it required great tact for even
a grown person to sit comfortably. So after the first
day's riding, we were obliged to abandon the use of
them, and seat the boy on a horse, where he rode
very comfortably. The delays in arranging his saddle
on the reindeer impeded our progress greatly. He was
obliged to be strapped on his horse; and it was rather
fatiguing for him to be seated so many hours as he
sometimes was. When sleep overtook him, we were
obliged to carry him, which we did in turns.

We now directed our steps to Okinskoi Karaoul,
where we crossed the river Oka, and turned our horses
in the direction of a beautiful but singular valley, that
of the Djemalouk, down which the fiery torrent had run
damming up the river and forming small lakes, while in
other places the flood is lost under the lava for ten and
twenty versts together. At times we rode along the
edge of the lava, at others, over its bed, in which there
were deep fissures, demanding the greatest care to wend
our way amongst them. Had I not been trained in
a rough school, I should have hesitated proceeding,
though I believe nothing would daunt me now. The
day was fine, making our ride enchanting, in spite of the
little difficulties, and more especially as we ascended
the base of a mountain, and rode through a thick forest
of gigantic trees. Having traversed the wood for two
hours, during which time Alatau had often asked for
his dinner, we arrived at a small torrent which came
tumbling down the mountain. The spot was beautiful,
and here we determined to dine. Our carpet was soon
spread in a garden of roses and other flowers, and
Alatau was quickly in among them gathering nosegays,
for flowers are his delight; our hats and horses' heads
were always decked with fresh flowers daily when we were
in their region. Such a day as this was compensated for
all the ills we had hitherto met with on our way, in the
shape of rain and bogs, I felt loth to quit the spot;
the delight of the boy was so great, tumbling about,
–
but we must on: leaving our dining-room, we all
mounted our horses and away. We had still to ride
through the forest, when we came upon a most wild and
rugged scene; huge rocks had been hurled on to the
bed of lava from the precipice above. We halted to
look at them, and to speculate when they had come
tumbling down; and came to the conclusion that it
must have been during some great convulsion, and
when the boiling mass had not yet cooled: others had
fallen at a later period, and lay on the top. What a sight
this must have been, could anyone have witnessed it!

We spent several days exploring this valley. At one
point, where it was impossible to go on horseback,
Mr. Atkinson decided upon going on foot, leaving part of
the men and a Cossack with me. I should have gone,
but I had not courage enough to leave the boy alone
with the men for two or three nights. It was well,
perhaps, that I did not, as every man returned
bootless; the lava bad cut their boots entirely to pieces.

The discomfort of the journey would have been a
mere trifle, for all they had was the produce of their guns,
with biscuit, salt, and tea. Each man carried something; one a kettle, in which tea was made, and a
saucepan; another grain and flour; and my husband
tea and biscuit, and a towel; each one had a coat or a
voilock strapped on to his back. When they stopped
to dine, we saw the smoke of their fires, and after that
nothing more till their return. We all felt anxious,
not knowing what they might encounter. On the
evening of the fourth day, the boy and myself were
taking tea, when we were startled, yet gladdened, by
the report of their guns. There was a general rejoicing,
and as the day had been cool, fresh logs were thrown
on to the fire, and all looked bright and sparkling.
Then one of the men was quickly called to sweep the
dining and drawing room, over which my son had
made a litter,
– flowers were lying in every direction,
–
this was soon done, a broom having been procured from
a neighbouring tree. Tea, that ever-refreshing beverage, was spread on the grass, and all ready when they
arrived. Had we been lodged in a palace, I doubt
whether we should have felt as happy as we did sitting
round our camp-fire, hearing all that had taken place.
When the men had refreshed themselves, they too came
and squatted down by our fire, to give their account of
the journey.

The valley up which they had wandered was called
the Khi-yol, at the upper part of which they discovered
the crater whence the fearful lava torrent had poured.
This was interesting to Mr. Atkinson, proving he was
correct in the opinion he had formed, that that was
the valley up which the crater must be sought, and
not the Kara-noor, which we had previously visited,
and whence he at first believed the lava had issued.

After a few more explorations in this direction, we
started on our return to the Oka, thanking God for
having favoured us with lovely weather. But after
this respite our old enemy returned with redoubled
force; for several days we had almost continued thunder,
lightning, and rain. Streams, small when previously
passed, were now large torrents, and, on arriving at the
Oka, right glad were we to take shelter in a Cossack's
dwelling, where we had not been long established
before we both declared it was worse than the rain,
there being such a number of screaming tiresome
children, who almost deafened us with their noise. At
length there was a break in the heavy clouds, and the
rain for awhile abated, which we immediately profited
by to choose a spot on the banks of the river, where we
could pitch our tent. Here we found quiet, and congratulated each other on the change. The Ouradnik
from the Karaoul visited us, and said the water was
unusually high, caused by the heavy rains in the upper
mountains. We watched with much interest the rising
of the water, mark after mark was so quickly covered
that we considered it necessary to have the opinion of
the Cossacks before we lay down to rest. In spite of
our wish to remove, they one and all said there was no
occasion, that it would not reach us, never having
been so high before in the recollection of the oldest
inhabitant. However, it was thought prudent to set
a watchman to warn us, in case of its rising high enough
to endanger us, which we had a notion it was doing
rapidly.

As we had suspected, between one and two in the
morning, the Bouriat called loudly to us, saying the
water was up to the tent, and then ran off to call the
Cossacks, who were with us in a few minutes.

Can you conceive rising from bed and turning out
in a pouring rain? Taking the boy in my arms, I seated
myself on a stone, till our house was erected on a safer
spot, quite high on the bank: but even here it reached
us, and we had again to remove. When all was fixed,
I again made my bed (we had no candles), and in an
hour from the commencement, I was once more snug
under the furs, now doubly enjoyable after sitting so
long in the soaking rain. I think now what a figure I
must have cut, enveloped in voilock, and a large wide-awake on the top of my nightcap. These hats are the
most useful things imaginable; they protect you from
the sun, and serve as umbrellas in the rain. I do
believe there is nothing more disagreeable than to have
rain trickling down one's back; a good soaking is
nothing; but patter, patter, just between the collar and
the neck is horrible. I once had a cap, but I soon discarded it for the hat, which I found invaluable.

During all this bustle of moving, Alatau, poor child,
slept on, having not the slightest idea of what was
passing. He was born in a noise, and has lived ever
since in one. In Kopal, when I had to join in the
merry-making, I always took him with me, and laid
him, wrapped in my shawl, on a bench or somewhere;
when he would sleep on in spite of noise, or drums, or
anything.

The next day we saw plainly enough that there was
no chance of crossing till the water had subsided. The
boats, which had been tied to trees growing on the bank,
were now about the middle of the stream, with no possibility of reaching them; and before the day was over
we had the satisfaction of seeing one of them carried
away, and the other went during the night, tree and all.
But, what was most remarkable was the incredible
number of large trees that were swept past; at times it
was a continued line of fine old timber, I never saw
such a sight. We occupied ourselves the greater part
of the day watching these giants of the forest moving
rapidly along. Farther on our road we came to a place
where some Bouriats were in great grief, the flood
having swept away two of their dwellings, women,
children, and all; it was heartrending to hear them
wailing for them. Not a single Bouriat remembered
such a flood. On the morning of the third day, on
looking out of our canvass home, we saw a clear bright
sky, with every prospect of a fine day, and the water
greatly subsided. This was good news, and when
the Ouradnik came he said he would send to the
Bouriats for a small canoe to take us over, as soon as
it would be safe to do so.

What a different aspect everything wears on a fine
bright day! All nature seemed to feel the change, even
the goats and lambs, for they frisked about and afforded
a fund of amusement to my son, who is a great lover
of all animals. When he finds the footprint of any of
the wild ones, he calls out 'Papa, Caziole!' or 'Cossack,
Caziole!' as the case may be; he knows them well, the
Cossacks took pains to teach him, and he always has an
eye to the larder. If we may judge of the future man
from the child, we may presume he will be extremely
provident. He had observed the men had difficulty at
times in finding bark to set light to the fire; so without
being perceived by anyone, he filled his pockets, and
when we stopped to dine, produced it, amidst shouts
of laughter from the Cossacks and Bouriats. He is a
source of amusement to them all When once on the
way, he does not give me much concern till we again
encamp.

On the morning of the 12th of July, we packed up
and prepared to cross, which was a work of time and
danger, as only one at a time could be paddled over.
Before starting I went to take leave of a Cossack's
wife, and to offer her a little money for several kindnesses she had done, and bread which she had made
and sent me; but no persuasions could induce her to
take it. I felt uncomfortable, and said I could not
think of going away in her debt. After a little hesitation she told me the greatest kindness I could do her, if
she dared ask for such a thing, would be to present her
with a tumbler; for when the priest visited them, which
he did a certain number of times in the year, she could
offer him tea out of it; adding that he was expected
shortly, and always visited her. You may be sure I gave
it, with a few other articles which I observed would be
acceptable; and left her the happiest woman in the
place, there not being such a thing as a tumbler at
Okniskoi Karaoul. The money would have bought her
a dozen, but she had no means of procuring them, thus
it was as useless to her as it is to the Kirghis.

This night we slept at a Bouriat aoul; it was a
pleasant spot, near a small stream; they appeared a
superior class to any we had yet passed. We entered
their yourts, in one of which we found a very pretty
black-eyed young woman, with cheeks like roses, not
ruddy like a milkmaid's, but of a delicate tint; she
wore a closely fitting black velvet jacket, which
became her amazingly; and her head was adorned with
the usual ornaments. Saluting me after the fashion
of the country, she asked us to enter.

We were much interested with the picture of their
Deity, very nicely painted on silk. In each yourt we
found an altar, on which is placed a number of brass
cups or small basins, filled with the articles offered up
to the Deity. For instance, wine (or rather a strong spirit
made from milk), butter, tea, coffee, milk, and sugar. At
the bottom of the altar they frequently burn their
offerings on little wooden blocks. The master of the
yourt handed us a cup of the wine, which I declined,
and passed it to Mr. Atkinson, who merely tasted it, but
the old man soon became quite tipsy. I think he had a
little before we entered. They drink it in large quantities. In each dwelling we were treated in a similar
manner.

Having bid adieu to the good people, we were once
more on our way, but on arriving at the Oka, we found
it impossible to cross, the water was so high and rapid.
As we should have had to cross it four times in the space
of twenty versts, we decided on going over the mountains,
which was extremely difficult. The ascent was both
bad and dangerous, caused by the heavy rains. Having
reached the summit, we found nothing but morass,
which was positively frightful; the men had several
times to get off their horses to drag them out of the
deep mire. After wading through this bog for hours,
we found the sun was fast declining, therefore at seven
o'clock we determined to encamp. This we did on the
side of a steep hill, being the only dry spot we could
discover, on some blocks of granite which had been
washed down by the torrent ages ago: we could distinctly
hear water gurgling beneath us.

This was indeed a rugged bedroom, still we were glad
to get even such a place to lie down upon after our long
and fatiguing ride of ten hours. I found great difficulty in spreading the bear-skins, there not being a
single level spot. One of the Cossacks aided me with
stones and branches, and I believed our efforts were
successful, at least I can say our sleep was, in defiance
of all discomforts; but when we awoke we found our bed
in quite a different place from that in which it was when
we lay down. I cannot say we had slept on a bed of
down, which I always declare I mean to have wherever
and whenever we settle, as a recompense to my poor bones
for all they have endured; at times they are really sore,
just as if I had been beaten. Now that we are in a
town, I look upon my bed, which is nothing but the
bare boards of a bedstead covered with my bear-skins,
as a perfect luxury.

Our road this day in many respects resembled the
previous one, till we reached some sand-hills, near the
river Sarock, when it was better for some distance till
we crossed the river, the men going first. When I saw
them, I never believed it possible I should keep my
saddle. One of the Bouriats was unhorsed, naturally
affording merriment to all those who had passed safely.
The river was not wide, but in the only part of the bank
where we could get up, there was a deep hole filled
with mud, sand, water, and all the horrors imaginable;
into this hole the hind legs of the horses sank deep, and
they plunged awfully. After crossing, we descended the
left bank, where we had morass to our hearts' content,
several of the horses actually lying down in it. You
may guess what dread I was in lest mine should do the
same, when I looked at the condition the men were in.

I was highly flattered and puffed up by Mr. Atkinson
saying, 'However you keep your saddle I cannot understand.' It would never have done to have been unhorsed
after this. At ten o'clock we had got over our difficult
ride: a worse or less interesting one I scarcely ever
took; we were all bespattered with mud from the terrible plunges of our horses.

I presume the idea of dining at ten o'clock in the
morning will sound strange to your ears: twelve was
our usual hour, but at this place we thought it necessary
for both horses and ourselves to recruit our strength;
still our fare was as hard as our ride had been, never
having come across a living thing during the last two
days. After this our track lay along the valley of the
Oka, which was very pleasing; and one night we again
took up our abode at a Bouriat aoul. You should see
my son amongst them, dancing Bouriat dances; he has
also learned one of their native songs, which he and
a Cossack sing together, to the great delight of the
Bouriats.

We had a great dread about crossing the Nooka Daban,
and not, I assure you, without cause, the heavy rains
having rendered it almost impassable; however, we did
pass it in safety, Providence having guided our steps;
otherwise it might have been our last ride, for we were
caught in a dense fog, and could not see a yard of our
way. It was quite impossible to stop, we must proceed:
there was neither wood nor water to be had; and, besides
there being nothing for the horses to pasture on, the
fog might last several days. We knew that one false step
might lead us to rugged precipices where we should have
been dashed to pieces long ere we reached the bottom.
Alatau had been removed from his own horse, and was
seated on his father's saddle, and covered with his cape;
before he was placed there he had repeated several times,
'I so tired;' he had been many hours on horseback, and
this together with the dreary ride had fatigued him.
Since the commencement of the fog we had been riding
'goosem,' as the Russians call it (that is, like geese).
However after some hours the fog cleared off, and when
the precipices became visible I really shuddered.
I now rode up to my husband, and learned that the
boy was asleep. I opened the cape a little to take
a peep, but I found his eyes open and as bright as ever;
he gave me a smile, and to the amusement of the
Cossacks bade me close the balagan (the tent). I
presume he had a fear that he was going to be placed
on his horse again, and the roaring of the wind was not
over pleasant.

We now spent some days in exploring Monko Seran
Xardick, and the Lake Kossogol, where we had most
magnificent views, the scenery about the lake reminding
us of our beloved Alatau chain
– only on a small scale;
it was truly beautiful.

On one part of our ride we found the flood had carried
away the road, and made a new channel, having washed
away thousands of trees, some of which were now strewn
about like straws. It is wonderful what power water
has; what we here contemplated seemed almost incredible. Only two months earlier we had passed through
a thick forest of mighty larch trees, and in their place
now flowed the Irkout in abroad deep channel. We had
to seek a road up the side of a hill. We had ridden some
distance when it became so steep that all were forced
to descend from their horses, take them by the bridles,
and scramble up by clinging to the branches of the trees; but I clung fast to my animal, declaring that if he
was able to climb, he might easily carry me. So seizing
him by the mane, I stuck to him like a leech, all the
men calling out I should fall; however, I succeeded.
I never give myself the trouble of surmounting the
difficulties met with in ascending a mountain on foot,
when a horse can carry me. At Monko Seran Xardick I
had ascended all kinds of places, where a horse could
not possibly go: but there was a necessity for my doing
so; and my boots gave proofs of what I had done, being
cut to pieces by the lava.

The next place of interest we stopped at was the
Lamist temple. After some delay one of the Lamas
was found to admit us into the interior. It was very
curious and very interesting, and we deeply regretted
we could not see the service performed; but the principal
Lama was so drunk that he could not officiate: this
was a great disappointment, as it would have been
highly interesting to me to have heard the chanting
and the musical instruments. There were many timbrels, a large gong, cymbals, trumpets, bells, and a
sort of hautboy, which makes a terrible sound; also
an immense sliding trumpet, which would shake the
temple with its clangour. The Lama sounded some
of the instruments to show the effect. The temple was
filled with offerings of various-coloured silks, which
were hanging from the ceiling, and produced a very
pretty effect; besides which, there were banners hanging
from grotesque heads, worked in silk. We spent some
time in examining the temple, and then left it with
regret, not having seen all we wished.

We now bade adieu to the Lama, thanking him for
his courtesy, and, remounting our horses, rode off,
directing our course towards the Baikal. Before arriving at Tounka, we had another atrocious road to go
over; about seven versts of it were nearly impassable, it
was like a sea of mud, and took us three hours to go the
distance. After passing Tounka it is a post road, but
it was fortunate we had no carriage, it would have taken
fifty horses to drag the pavoska through. Just as we
were starting from one of the stations, an old friend
from Irkoutsk rode up. How agreeable it is to meet
with a face one knows an a journey like this! and the
exclamations are always rather astounding to those near.
However, this meeting caused us to dismount, and then
we all came to the determination of spending the evening together, and starting at daybreak the following
morning. We wished to hear the Irkoutsk news, and
Mr. Nemeroffsky (the Pole) had in his turn to enquire
where we had been, and what we had seen. He was
going on a visit to his comrade at the priesk. I told
him of the difficulties of the road; but he having been
to Kamschatka knew what it would be like: however,
he afterwards told me that the Kamschatka road was
nothing to this, and he did not go over the difficult
part, he merely crossed between the lakes and to the
lead mine.

At Koultook we were delayed two days whilst a boat
was got ready for our voyage on the Baikal. The first
night I found it impossible to close my eyes, it was a
repetition of the one spent at the old man's cottage on
our return from the Katoonia. In the morning the
head man of the village, in whose house we were stopping, came to enquire how we had passed the night.
I complained bitterly to him of the insects, and said I
would sleep in the boat; but he advised me, as the
ground around was so wet, to sleep in the flour magazine. I said the damp was nothing, I was accustomed
to it: but at the same time I believed it would be
advisable to accept his offer. When night came I spread
the bear-skins, and, being thoroughly worn out for want
of sleep, soon dropped off, and never woke again till daybreak. When we emerged into regions of light, for
there were no windows in our sleeping apartment,
though just sufficient light from the cracks and crevices
to grope about with, the host again accosted me, to
know how I had slept, but with the addition that he
hoped the rats had not troubled us much. When he
said this I almost shrieked; I asked, if he really meant
to say there were rats? 'Oh yes,' said the old man;
'and whenever I have slept there, which I sometimes
do in summer, that being the coolest place, they annoy
me very much; but I thought perhaps you would not
mind it.'

We were not particularly struck with our voyage on
the Baikal; there was nothing grand or fine in the
scenery. What a contrast between it and Altin Kool,
which far surpasses anything to be found here! Certainly this is well worth seeing, but not for an artist,
except it was visited before Altin Kool. But the
storms on it were very fine. It was magnificent to
remark the changes that came over the lake. At one
moment we would be looking at it when it was as clear
as crystal, and revealing everything within; the rocks
at the bottom discernible at a great depth, and on
them at times even the little fish lying dead; when
suddenly a storm would rise, entirely changing its
aspect, heaving it into billows, and hiding everything
from view.

Speaking of the clearness of the water reminds me
that at Listvenitza we slept one night at a widow's
cottage. Before leaving in the morning, I gave her
money, for which she thanked me very much, and said,
'I should never have thought of accepting such a thing
from guests had my husband been living.' She then
went on to say he had been dead some years. He was a
fisherman, and was sometimes absent two or three days
at a time, but always returned when he saw a storm
brewing. One day while he was away, a storm arose
very suddenly, which lasted two days; on the third its
violence decreased, but he did not return, and some of
his companions went in search. They expected to find
him along the shore, thinking some accident might
have happened to his boat; and proceeded a long
distance at great risk to themselves, as the storm had
not yet quite gone down; but nowhere could they see
anything of him. Returning, the lake having become
calmer, they saw him lying at the bottom, as she said,
just as if he was sleeping, quite calm and composed,
with the image which they wear round the neck clasped
in his hand.

After passing Listvenitza we several times had a
chance of lying at the bottom of the Baikal ourselves,
especially where the wind suddenly rushes down the
valleys, when it catches the frail boat, and nearly capsizes it; and besides, our boatmen were not the most
skilful, being principally Bouriats; but decidedly in
singing they surpassed any we had ever heard. Mr.
Atkinson is of opinion that a Bouriat concert would be
very taking; it certainly would be difficult in Petersburg
to collect the singers, but not so in London; all that
would be required would be a flock of sheep. However,
I can tell you they drove me almost crazy by their
noise; but they seemed so perfectly happy that I had
not courage to ask them to cease their Baa-a-a-a-a!
We have been spending the evening with the Taskins.
Mr. Taskin is an engineer officer; and when I asked him
if he had ever heard the Bouriats on the Baikal sing,
he gave me in answer one of their songs, accompanied
by music; it was bad enough in the open air, but in the
room it was deafening.

I will tell you of a little journey we made to a waterfall on the river Hook, below Nijni Oudinsk. Mr.
Atkinson went to sketch it for a gentleman residing in
Irkoutsk; he and the archbishop had been the discoverers
of it, and both believed it finer than the Falls of Niagara.
On arriving at the spot you should have seen our
astonishment. Why, had my son been a little bigger he
might have jumped over it! I grant it was very pretty,
as it came tumbling over the rocks, and would have
been considered a wonderful sight in any garden; but
it was perfectly preposterous to ask anyone to go more
than a thousand versts for such a trumpery thing.

This journey was a very disastrous one; in the first
place we were robbed on the second station from Irkoutsk.
We had been travelling several nights sucessively, but
came to the determination not to stop a day till we had
finished what there was to do; therefore merely supped
with some friends in Irkoutsk, and then started on our
way to Nijni Oudinsk. Being tired, we and the Cossack
also fell asleep, shortly after changing the horses, when
I was awoke by a heavy hand on my face. I said to
my husband, 'Your hand hurts me;' it was removed the
instant I spoke, when I again dozed off. On stopping
at the station I searched for my bag, which contained
a quantity of copper coin and small silver money. I
always deposited it safely at the back of my head, and
where I could lay my hand upon it immediately, as I
am paymaster; but it was gone. We were travelling
paraclodnoi, and the leather at the back had been cut
open, and without doubt it was the thief's hand that
had been resting on my face. My bag was a sad loss;
besides containing the two bags of money, there was a
confused mass of articles: for instance, a telescope of
Mr. Atkinson's; ear-rings and beads to give away; my
boy's socks and shoes, the only pair I had; a tiny pocket
bible, presented to me in Ekaterinburg; bags of dried
fruit for the child, and a host of other things. You can
fancy how annoying it was; we gave information to the
police, but nothing was heard of them, nor ever will be.
I have since learned that persons are often robbed on
that station, even the governor's carriage was not sacred,
something was stolen from it. All this was nothing in
comparison to my husband having taken cold, and being
confined to his bed for fifteen days.

Going to Nijni Oudinsk, we stopped at a salt zavod. It
was the early morning when we arrived, and no one was
up. We descended from our equipage, and finding the
doors unlocked entered, and had our baggage brought in.
We then bathed and dressed, and Mr. Atkinson taking
the boy by the hand went into the garden, where he
found Mr. Taskin (brother to the engineer officer), who
was much surprised at seeing him, not having the
faintest notion we were there. I tell you this to make
you understand the absence of all fear of robbery or
murder; and I am sure I shall surprise you when I tell
you that the whole of the workpeople employed in this
zavod are convicts.

Mme. Taskin told me that free servants were not
allowed, and all those in her establishment had committed some desperate crime. We slept a night here
to give us time to see things, and the maid who was deputed to serve me, and slept in the next room to me, had
murdered her master; and on my door was neither bolt
nor lock. The one who was maid to the children had
poisoned her mistress. You will think we have taken
up our abode in a nest of crime. Mme. Taskin likewise
told me that when she first went to the zavod, some years
before, her husband had to go on a tour of inspection
a few days after their arrival, and she was left alone
with these people; and, moreover, the same girl who
attended me had to sleep in her room, as one of the
children was ill. She said she scarcely closed her eyes
the whole night, and, when she did for a second doze
off, she woke up in a fright, thinking the girl was going
to murder her. This feeling soon wore off, and she declares they are the best servants she ever had; she
prefers them to any other. There are few of these
people but have been driven to commit crime by the
brutal conduct of their masters; but pray do not run
away with the idea that it is everywhere the same in
Russia. It is no more so than that every man brutally
treats his wife in England; because instances are met
with, it does not prove that the whole nation is the
same. Some of the men are steeped in the deepest
crimes; one, for instance, whom we went to see was
in chains, and a guard of Cossacks was placed over him.
He had owned to committing seventy murders. He was
an escaped convict, and had been caught, and was now
awaiting his trial. To look at the man no one could have
thought he was such a desperate character: he had an
exceedingly pleasing and mild face.

The history of these people would really be curious.
I was sorry we made such a short stay, or I might have
collected a host of facts relating to them.

A Birthday Ball
– Singular Wedding Custom
– Excitement amongst the Exiles
– Anticipated general Pardon
– An Escape and Recapture
– The poor German Exile and his Wife
– Attempted Reform in Dress, and Check on Habits of Intemperance
– A drunken Dignitary of the Church
– Projected Visit to Kiachta.

Irkoutsk, January 1852.

BEFORE saying what we are doing, I must thank you
for being so kind as to execute my commissions. I find
everything very nice, the mantillas I consider beautiful;
and, still better, they are pronounced to be so by all the
ladies in Irkoutsk. The gloves I am very glad to have.
I cannot procure any here for less than two silver roubles
per pair; thus I save on each pair three quarters of a
rouble: so the gloves alone more than pay for the
postage.

I dare say you will be surprised at the difficulty there
is in procuring good tea here. Many persons send to
Petersburg for it, whence they have it cheaper and better;
and yet we are close to the great mart, but it is only those
who have acquaintance in Kiachta who can procure it
from there. I have a friend here who receives it in large
quantities, and who is good enough to supply my wants.
I expect we are going to Kiachta, where I mean to
provide myself with a goodly quantity.

Thanks also for the present you sent to Alatau. Since
his birth he has cost me nothing more for clothing than
the one piece of silk I bought in Kopal. In Barnaoul
he was loaded with material for dresses, and amongst the
prettiest were some of white linen, edged and embroidered with red, with red silk belts; they are in the
Russian peasant style, which I think beautiful. Here
it is the same; the only articles I buy are shoes and
socks, and these come from Petersburg; and, besides,
S— has sent him many dresses. I can assure you
my son is a most fashionable young gentleman. One
dress presented to him by Mme. Zarine, the wife of the
civil governor, was of a most beautiful Chinese material,
called granitoor, it is a rich thick silk, but curled
like crape. This was the boy's visiting costume, which
he wore with the black velvet cap you sent him;
it corresponds prettily with the dress, which is pink
trimmed with silver lace and buttons; he has been
greatly complimented on his appearance.

He has had a ball to celebrate his third birthday.
All his little companions were invited, this is the second
one he has had, and right merrily have they enjoyed
themselves: such romps, and dancing too; the musician
being a musical box. I gave them a surprise at supper,
viz. a Christmas pudding. How the little eyes were
dilated when they saw it come flaming into the room!
It produced a grand effect, but the flavour was more
appreciated by the elders than by the babies. It is the
first plum-pudding ever made in Irkoutsk. The following day I had numbers who came for a taste, and all
regretted they had not seen the grand sight.

There has been no end of balls and evening parties,
which differ only in not being in full ball costume;
formerly I excused myself by saying I had a baby;
but now there is no such excuse, and I am obliged
to go. There have been several weddings, and these
cause them to be gayer. I must tell you that, when Mme.
Zarine's niece was married, I knew the day they were
going to make me a visit, so bade the nurse girl not to
take the child away, as they would like to see him. She
was on the balcony with him, when suddenly she rushed
into the room and screamed out, 'Here they are!'
'Who?' I asked. 'The new-married people,' she replied.

I must tell you that it is customary in Siberia for the
newly married couple to go round to all their friends,
accompanied by a band of musicians. In each house they
stop at a room is quickly made ready, when all join in a
dance; this ended, the hosts present champagne, and
should they be poor, the wedding party have a supply
with them; the health of the newly married couple is
drunk, another dance is gone through, then off they are
to some other place. They are probably joined by some
one from each house they stop at, till at length there is
a long line of carriages and droshkys, and the evening
concludes with a supper. If the acquaintance is numerous, this lasts for two or three weeks.

Now my maiden had seen a military band accompanied by some droshkys, and in the simplicity of her
heart imagined it must be the governor's niece. When
they really did come, she was sadly put out, expecting
to have seen a very grand affair, considering their
position, and moreover residing in the house of the
governor. She thought Siberian fashions far superior to
those of Petersburg, where nobody could see there was
anything uncommon, and she had always been told that
where the Tzar lived everything was very fine; she used
to wish to see Petersburg, but now she had no such wish.

A circumstance connected with the exiles has caused
an immense sensation in Irkoutsk. For the last two
months they have been in a great state of excitement.
Amongst their intimate friends the conversation has
constantly run on the subject nearest their hearts, viz.
their liberation from exile, which it was firmly hoped and
believed would take place on the 25th anniversary of
the emperor's ascending the throne. All expected an
estafette to that effect, and as the day drew near it was
painful to observe the anxiety depicted on each countenance: some believed a courier would be sent express,
others that it would come through the post; but none
doubted the fact, that the joyful intelligence would
eventually arrive. At length the day of accession came
and passed, damping in some degree their hopes, still
not altogether extinguishing them; as they now believed
that only on the anniversary would the order for their
freedom be despatched. They became in a measure more
tranquil, as a fortnight must elapse ere a courier could
reach Irkoutsk. The fortnight passed, but without
bringing the long-looked-for pardon; still they clung
like drowning people to a straw. Perhaps something
had happened to the courier which might have delayed
him; but time passed, and post after post arrived without bringing the earnestly desired announcement; and
unwillingly they were forced to abandon the last hope.
Sad though all were, by degrees they ceased talking on
the painful subject; till one day a tremendous uproar
was raised in the town, by the arrival in haste of a
mounted Cossack. All were immediately on the qui vive,
never doubting but this was the estafette; but ere long
their hopes were once more doomed to disappointment

It shortly became known that the Cossack's visit
was connected with the escape of one of the Poles. You
must understand they have more liberty granted them
than the exiles of 1825, being allowed an absence of
three days from the town they reside in. He not having
reported himself in the village where he had gone on a
visit, enquiries had been instituted, and his flight discovered. He had by subterfuge possessed himself of
the passport of a Mischanin, that is to say, a trader a
little above the peasant, and gone off with it. This
young Pole, with whom we are acquainted, having
frequently met him at the Troubitskoy's, had without
doubt matured his plans some time previously, and now
that all chance of pardon from the emperor had vanished,
he had put his scheme into execution.

Cossacks were despatched in every direction, but
without much hope of capturing him. The next intelligence that came was, that he had been stopped on the
road by the people connected with the post, and was
now a prisoner in Omsk. This was bad news to his
countrymen and companions, he being a young man
not more than twenty-eight years of age, and of noble
extraction. All declared that had they been rash enough
to have attempted an escape, they would have provided
themselves with the means of self-destruction, and would
never have been taken alive; as his punishment in the
first place must be public flagellation in the town from
whence he had fled, and then banishment to the mines
for life, with no hope of release.

His Russian friends, the exiles, all condemned him;
and said, had he made a confidant of any one of them,
they would have dissuaded him from making the attempt, but he never in any way even hinted at his
design. Those who were but slightly acquainted with
him were unable to divine whence he could have procured the money to enable him to travel: but you
must understand he is a great gambler, and latterly
had been very successful. His capture was brought
about by a quarrel with one of the yemstchicks about
ten kopeeks silver, which he declared they wanted to
overcharge him. This dispute led to the examination
of who and what he was; and his appearance not
corresponding with his passport, which, as I said, was
that of a man in rank a trifle above the peasant, whereas
he was travelling in a handsome equipage, and with
the appearance of a nobleman, they took him prisoner, and sent him under an escort to Omsk.

Days passed, and his arrival was hourly looked for,
when the tidings reached here that he had escaped one
night from the prison where he was confined. At first,
everyone believed it was a false report; but it proved
to be quite true that he had eluded the grasp of his
captors. It is presumed he has made his way to the
Kirghis steppe; and if he is taken prisoner by the
Kirghis he will be worse off than in Irkoutsk; he may
then bid adieu to freedom for ever, for he will either be
sold as a slave, or treated like a Russian we saw in the
steppe who had been made prisoner by the Kirghis
many years since. This man they required for a cowherd, so they inserted a horsehair into his heel, which
lamed him for life, and they took good care that he
should never get hold of a horse. I feel very sorry for
the fate of the young Pole; it was foolish of him to
do such a thing, as there was every chance of his liberation, his crime differing from that of the Russians,
being merely a defence of his country. We are constantly hearing of one or another being sent back to
the borders of their native land, which is really equivalent to pardon.

Speaking of the exiles, I may as well tell you what
I heard of one; but the incident took place some years
back. He was a German who had been joined by his
wife. They lived near a village, and at the back of
their house ran a river, in which this gentleman often
occupied himself in fishing. As his wife's time drew
near, it was observed that he appeared extremely
dejected and more depressed than usual; and on the
day of her confinement he left home, as it was supposed, to go and fish. A neighbour from the village
had kindly offered her assistance to the wife, and likewise prepared food for the family: but the exile did
not return to his dinner; and, as it had often been
remarked what an extremely kind and attentive
husband he was, his protracted absence caused some
little uneasiness. The neighbour was obliged to go
home to see after her family, but promised to return;
she did so, and finding the husband still absent, proposed passing the night with the wife.

The following morning bringing no tidings of him,
notice was given to the authorities, who immediately
instituted a search, fearing he was making an attempt
to escape. Cossacks were despatched in various directions; and those who went by the river discovered at no
great distance from his home the poor man's clothing
lying on the banks of the stream. Fancying this
might be a ruse to lead them to believe that he had
drowned himself, they were more active than ever in
search of him; scouring the country in every direction, but without success. At last they resolved to
drag the river, presuming it just possible that he might
have made away with himself; but his body was nowhere discovered, and after some weeks the search was
relinquished. The wife appeared to be much afflicted,
and, after a certain lapse of time, asked for permission
to return to her native land, a favour usually granted after
the death of the exile; during his lifetime those ladies
who have voluntarily expatriated themselves are not
permitted to go back. Her wish was acceded to, and,
as soon as proper arrangements could be made, she was
to depart. A pavoska was provided, and a gendarme to
accompany her, and see her in safety across the frontier.
Many months elapsed before the necessary papers were
drawn up. When all was ready, she prepared herself
for her solitary journey, and the sympathising peasantry
came to take leave of her and wish her prosperity. The
road was long and tedious. At length her ears were gladdened by the intelligence that she had but one more
station to go, when she would be beyond the power of
Russia; and her joy appeared to be very great. About
the middle of the station the yemstchick had to descend from his seat to do something to the horses, when
the gendarme was rather startled by hearing some one
speaking in an under tone. His suspicions were suddenly aroused, and he came to the determination to
search the equipage before crossing the frontier. This
he did in spite of all expostulations, when he discovered
at the bottom of the carriage the poor woman's husband.
To describe her despair, or even his, they say, is impossible; they were both so utterly prostrate. One half-hour more, and they would have been free.

It appeared it had been a well-considered plan. He
had placed his clothing on the banks of the river, and
at night, during the absence of the peasant woman, he
had entered his dwelling unperceived, and was concealed by his wife between the bed and the mattress,
where he lay hidden so many months. Search had
been made in the house for him, but no one approached
her bed. It had required great tact and skill to get
him into the pavoska; which however was done without
raising the slightest suspicion. They had been so far
successful, and were so elated at the idea of being free,
that they in a measure forgot their prudence. It was a
pity, after undergoing so much torture, and on the
very threshold of deliverance. When taken out, the
poor fellow was fearfully emaciated, and quite unable
to stand.

I am sorry to say the Zarines have been obliged to
quit Irkoutsk, on account of Mr. Zarine being in ill
health. Although our stay will not be long, still we
feel their loss; however, I must say they are succeeded
by a very amiable German family, whose only fault
in the eyes of the Irkoutsk ladies is a desire on the
part of the governor to curtail their lavish expenditure
on dress. He devised a scheme which he believed would
answer admirably, and that was, instead of having balls
at the assembly-rooms once a month, to have meetings
there once a fortnight, to which they should come with
their knitting and sewing. The band was to play, when
the fingers of the elder ladies and the feet of the
younger would dance to its music, thus combining
utility with amusement, and securing an immense gain
to the pockets of the married gentlemen. All declared
they would go, and go they did; but at the second
meeting very few went, and at the third not half a
dozen: so he has been obliged to relinquish his pet
project, the ladies unanimously declaring that it is more
amusing to have their private friends at their own
homes. So the dress reform has fallen to the ground.
General Mouravioff's reform met with the same fate.
His was not in dress, but in wine; he wished them to
drink only the wine of the country, namely, Nalifka,
and he set the example by always taking it himself;
but it was useless, no one chose to fall in with his views.

I quite agree that a reform is necessary in this respect,
and particularly amongst the dignitaries of the Church.
On the Emperor's name-day a great dinner was given
by General Mouravioff to all the officers in the town,
besides his private friends, but no ladies were present.
Alatau and myself were invited, with two other ladies,
to dine with Mme. Mouravioff, so we betook ourselves
to the gallery, thinking to amuse the child by hearing
the music and seeing the healths drank; when we ourselves were highly amused at seeing, when dinner was
concluded, the great dignitary of the Church led out:
so it is not surprising that the General advocates reform
so strongly.

It is our intention to visit Kiachta, and I do not
expect to write to you again before our return from the
town of Pigtails. We are going for the fête called the
White Month; but, on account of the mourning, there
will not be such grand doings as usual. However, I
will tell you all I see.

Journey to Kiachta
– The Baikal
– A Chinese Dinner
– Shopping at Maimatchin
– Method of making Tea
– Resemblance of the Russians and Chinese in some National Customs
– A Day at Selenginsk
– Preparations to receive an English Visitor
– The Theatre
– The Gold-seekers and the Peasantry
– Bribery and Peculation
– Sleeping on Horseback
– The little Traveller in the Snow
– The Mayor and his Hospitality.

Irkoutsk, March 1852.

ON our return from Kiachta, I found your letter stating
that the box containing colours, paper, &c., had been
sent off months since; this causes us great uneasiness,
we think of it day and night. The governor has
received his things, which started at the same time as
ours; and, if our boxes arrive in the same state as his,
I do not know what Mr. Atkinson will do. One of
their cases, containing beautiful fine linen from Holland,
was stolen on the road, and a case, perfectly similar,
filled with snow and rubbish, to make it of the same
weight, substituted. It was very foolishly insured for
only two hundred silver roubles, whereas they say a
thousand would not pay for the linen alone. Mme.
Venselt says she could not procure it in Petersburg for
anything like that money; and, besides, the case was
filled up with various things, which she does not now
remember. The loss is a very sad one for them, and I
am exceedingly sorry, as I know what my feelings
would be under the circumstances. The governor told
me that our boxes were coming under his protection;
but that does not appear to be any safeguard, for I
presume, if he could have saved those of anyone they
would have been his own.

However, I will leave disagreeable subjects, and tell
you of our visit to Kiachta. We started in the beginning of February, and it was a visit of pleasure. I took
one of my servants with me, that I might be quite at
my ease with regard to sight-seeing and visiting, and
besides she is a capital lady's maid, and yet is only
cook; she is so much cleverer than the maid I have,
that I took her in preference, and I assure you Vara is
charmed. She is the same servant I had all last winter.
During my absence in summer, she would not take
another situation, but worked in the fields till our
return. She is the best servant I ever had, though I
received a most horrible character of her from our
landlady, in spite of which I tried her, and have never
had reason to regret doing so. The Princess Troubitskoi
mentioned to me the difficulties I should find in procuring one, and thinks I am very fortunate in having
secured Vara.

We started about two o'clock in the morning, so that
we might reach the Baikal, and cross by daylight, as it
is better than crossing in the night. It is fifty-five
versts from one side to the other, which we accomplished in four hours. Formerly there was a station
midway, but the ice breaking up suddenly some years
back, the men, women, children, horses, and everything,
were swept away; it was a frightful disaster. They
are now no longer permitted to erect a station during
the winter months, therefore one set of horses performs the journey across. It was a bitter morning
when we started on the Baikal, a keen wind was
blowing, and the thermometer stood at 43° Reaumur.
Fortunately, we had a comfortable warm sledge, which
General Mouravioff had kindly lent us; notwithstanding which, and also being well wrapped up in furs,
I had a difficulty in keeping myself from freezing.
The servant had often to rub my feet to stimulate
the circulation; but Alatau threw off his furs, he was
so warm he said, and sat for awhile with his arms
naked. The poor horses were bleeding at the nose, and
the yemstchick was frequently obliged to rub them
with snow, and he himself, poor man, had to run at
times by the horses, to keep himself from freezing.
These men, from the effects of the frost, often have their
faces as though they had been scalded or burnt. A
little care would prevent their being in such a state; it
is merely to take snow and rub the frozen part with it
before entering a warm room. How much pleasanter
this journey would have been in summer! Now the
aspect is quite changed, nothing presents itself but one
dreary snow-white waste, as far as the eye can reach.
Still it was curious to see our old friend the Baikal with
its waves of ice, apparently frozen as they were rising
high; but the road over which we travelled was as
smooth as glass.

The scenery on the river Selenga, by which we
journeyed, is very picturesque and beautiful; and then
the trees were clothed with hoar frost sparkling like
diamonds and rubies; and as the sun rose the air was
filled with glittering particles, having the appearance of
the minutest floating diamonds, tinged with gold when
looking towards the sun. On our arrival at Troitska,
four versts from Kiachta, we found the ground completely clear of snow; it never lies there, the wind
carrying it away, so that sledges are very uncommon
in the town, and we found great difficulty in making
our way to the Director of the Customs, to whom we
presented our letters of introduction. Though perfect
strangers, he invited us to his house, where we were
treated in a most hospitable manner.

Mme. Fedorovitch did all in her power to render my
sojourn agreeable. The whole of our time was spent
in visiting and dinner-parties, and occasionally, with
the Chinese also. The director sent to announce our
visit to the sargoochàe or governor, and a hearty welcome we met with. One day we dined with him, and
another we supped. To describe the edibles is impossible, for I have no conception of what we ate, and the
number of dishes was countless. When I say dishes, you
must understand they were no larger than saucers, and
occupied the whole centre of the table. Plates were
set round for every guest, also the size of saucers; our
napkins were pieces of fine paper. For the Chinese,
chopsticks were placed, but for our party small steel
forks, no knives being required: but we asked for chopsticks in preference, the forks being perfectly rusty from
the vinegar, which is used with every kind of food; that
is to say, each person pours a little into his or her
plate, and then the viands are dipped into it, and very
nice I found it. Our tablecloth was of a flaming
red, but everything placed on the table was very clean
and nice, and arranged with the greatest precision
and order. The first course consisted of about
twenty dishes, all placed on at once, and all boiled.
Mr. Atkinson partook of every one, but I had some fear,
and only tasted those I thought looked edible: ideas
of young dogs and cats were floating through my imagination. The second consisted of the same viands as
the boiled, but stewed; the third was roast; and the
fourth soup, brought on in basins like slop-basins, and
from these the guests poured some into their saucers and
drank. I tasted of several, and found them delicious.

I took Alatau with me to this dinner, and whilst we
were at table a Chinaman took care of him; but before
our meal was concluded the sargoochàe politely excused
himself, and went to have a game with the child; and
there they were, rolling together on the sofa, he quite
as delighted as the boy. Dinner ended, we joined the
party on the sofa. Arm-chairs were placed round a
small table, on which were set dried fruits and cakes.
Chinese spirit was presented, the very odour of which
was abominable. To satisfy the ladies, it was removed,
and tea given instead; but, to my taste, that which
I found in the Russian merchants' houses was far
finer. The Chinese merchants put the tea into a
somervar, and literally boil it; and the Tartars have the
same practice. The decoction to me was horrible. In
some places they put a little tea into the cup, and pour
boiling water over, covering it with the saucer like
a lid. What troubled me was the quantity I was obliged
to consume.

Another day we visited the shops, where I found
everything very clean, and in the greatest order. I
was surprised to hear the Russians call them dirty. It
is true, the floors are not washed, no women being
allowed in Maimatchin, but every place was well swept,
and not a particle of dust anywhere. In the shops
there is no display of goods; these are closely and
carefully kept in closets at one side of the room, and
on the opposite side is a long bench, reminding me of
a ship's locker, on which are placed cushions and silk
coverlets; in fact, it is a sleeping-apartment. Before
unfolding the articles for sale, great care is taken to
remove every atom of dust from the tables.

As you wished me to select you a piece of Kanfa or
Chinese satin, I looked at several, but, not finding any
nearly so good as some I saw in the steppe, I did not
purchase. I found granitoor of every colour, but extremely dear, fifty silver roubles the piece; it is certainly beautiful, and, should you wish me to procure any,
let me know by return of post, addressed to Barnaoul,
whither I can have anything I wish forwarded.

I dare say you expect me to tell you something of
the town of Maimatchin; and what can I say about it?
Why, only that the houses are small and of one story,
altogether reminding me of dolls' houses; and the
streets extremely narrow, so that we left our droshky
at the gate of the town. In the evening the place presented quite a pretty appearance; at every house flags
and coloured lanterns were suspended, and stretched
across the streets from house to house were strings
with lanterns hanging from them; in fact, the illuminations reminded one of a little fairy land.

Our time, unfortunately, for visiting Maimatchin was
badly chosen; for this year, the court being in mourning,
there is no performance in the theatres, nor the usual
amount of buffoonery which generally takes place at
this season; all of which would have been interesting
to see. We had the permission of the sargoochàe to
visit the town at night; an order not always granted, for
at sunset the gates are closed, and neither egress nor
ingress is permitted. We had to wait some time at the
gates, whilst the ponderous key was obtained. I do not
say I felt exactly comfortable at being locked in,
although our hosts were most amiable, and willing to
show us everything that was to be seen. I remarked
here a custom quite common amongst the Russians,
viz. the wearing of a ring on the thumb; indeed the
great similarity between these two nations has often
struck me. Another thing they do is to play with
two small agate balls in one hand, passing one round
the other without coming in contact. It is generally
when lost in thought that they do this most, and
the touching of the balls recalls them to a sense of
what is passing around them. Sometimes they have
walnuts, and these descend from one generation to the
other. I have two which were presented to me, and
which, from constant twirling in the fingers, are quite
polished, and look like pieces of beautifully-carved
wood. Now the Russians do much the same thing
with balls of bread.

Again I was reminded of a resemblance in the two
people when I saw the tea made. In this process the
Russians in Kiachta first rinse the dry tea by pouring
boiling water on it, twirling the pot round, and pouring
the water off immediately; then fresh water is poured
over, and allowed to stand. I enquired the reason, and
learned that, during the process of drying the leaves,
spirit is spirted over them from the mouth. Now the
Russians sprinkle their linen after the same fashion.
From a tumbler they take a mouthful of water, and,
holding the piece of linen before them, spirt it over;
coming from the mouth, it is exactly like spray, I
have often tried to imitate them, but could never
succeed; not that I approve of the fashion.

On our return we spent a day, according to promise,
at Selenginsk with the family of Bestoujeff, with whom
I was perfectly charmed. It consists of two brothers,
exiles of 1825, and three sisters, who joined them
some years back; the eldest of them holds the position
of major domo, and she reminded me exceedingly of Dickens's Betsy Trotwood. Her whole happiness is centred
in her family, treating them all as children; indeed, she
calls the two younger sisters (twins) the children. After
breakfast the gentlemen started off together, but Betsy
took possession of me, and walked me off to see her
domestic arangements; afterwards we visited the cow-house, the fowl-yard, the stables, and coach-house. The
younger brother occupies himself in coach-building, and
she seemed very proud of his work. 'And now,' she
said, 'I want him to marry; I wish you would give him
a little advice on the subject.' We next started off to
inspect the ice-cellar, which she has made into a dairy
as well, that is to say, she has had a room made adjoining the ice-cellar, so as to have the milk perfectly cool.
Just as we were on the point of descending, the elder
brother and my husband walked into the courtyard,
when the former exclaimed, 'Why, you will tire Mrs.
Atkinson to death, and besides, what is there interesting
in your ice-cellar?' I replied, 'I was pleased and
delighted at seeing these places.' Betsy was charmed,
and in triumph exclaimed, 'I was sure I was not mistaken in your character.'

After this promenade, she led me into her private
apartment; and, seating me in a comfortable chair, gave
me the history of their arrival. It appears the mother
made many applications to the emperor for permission
to join her sons; sometimes she was led to believe her
prayer would be granted, and then something would
intervene, dashing her hopes to the ground. At length
an order was received according permission. They immediately wrote the glad tidings to the exiles, and set
about their preparations. Disposing of their house,
furniture, horses, and carriages, and bidding adieu to
their friends, they started for Moscow; but on their
arrival there, they found an oukaze waiting for them,
countermanding their departure, without giving any
reasons for so doing. The sorrow of the poor mother
was very great, and the shock made her in a sad state.
Again she addressed the emperor, and prayed to be
allowed to depart; but, after weary waiting, the longing
desire to see her beloved sons preyed so much on the
old lady, that she died just as the final order for their
departure was received. Relating this to me she wept
very much, saying, 'I always thought it such a cruel
act to tantalize my poor old mother as they did.' Who
can tell? perhaps it was meant for a kind act: for the
hardships she would have to undergo were described
to her, and she was told that it would be impossible to
grant her any favours. Her reply was that she was
willing to endure all, if she might be allowed to rejoin her sons.

Dinner being announced, we went to table. After
dinner she set me on a sofa, with orders to repose myself, whilst she went to see after the 'children,' and send
them to lie down, as they were not very strong. The
children were bordering on fifty. On her return, her
elder brother Nicholai,6 and my husband had just entered
the room. As they stood talking together, Betsy looked
at them from time to time; at length she said, in her
peculiar blunt way, 'Do just look at those two faces,
did you ever see anything more alike? you have no
conception how I love those two faces.' One more
thoroughly devoted to another I never beheld; it was
perfect adoration for her favourite brother. And what
she said was true enough; they were the image of each
other in height also, the only difference being that her
brother was a trifle stouter.

A young man, an officer, who is in some way connected with the barrier of Irkoutsk, called upon us to
say, they had had notice that an Englishman was coming
to Irkoutsk on his way to Kamschatka, a certain Lieutenant Pimm, and when he arrived they wished to know
from us what was to be done with him. Although
perfectly happy and most kindly received by everybody, still the very name of an Englishman made
the heart beat more rapidly. My husband and I
conferred together for awhile, and concluded to invite
him to stay at our house; and, if he did not like it, he
might seek for a lodging for himself. We told the
officer to conduct him to us. He thanked us, and said
Lieutenant Pimm would be with us the same week.

I immediately set to work to prepare a room for him,
giving up to his service a small cabinet I have. The first
time we had to leave home it was rather perplexing to
know how to manage; for we presumed he could not
speak Russian, and, when taken to our house, would be
at a loss. Mr. Atkinson therefore left a note for him,
stating where we were, and enclosed the keys so that
he might prepare himself tea, saying that I had ordered
the servants to give the somervar. This farce had to
be gone through each time we went out. When we
were about starting for Kiachta we were in a great
difficulty, and, had we been quite sure he would arrive,
we should have abandoned our trip. To this hour we
have been on the continued look-out for him, but he
has not appeared.

I was very glad we left Irkoutsk for Kiachta before
the Maslinitz, for I am really wearied with the number
of balls: it is not the ball itself, so much as the preparation; and as I have my young friends Karsakoff and
Bibikoff, they both feel their honour at stake if I am
not well dressed. One day I was preparing a dress to
go to a ball, which I had worn before, when Bibikoff
entered, and made such a fuss about it, that I was forced
to go and buy a new one, Mr. Atkinson encouraging
their vagaries. Scarcely a week passes without a ball
or an evening party. Then plays are got up, a company of actors having been invited from Omsk. (In
Barnaoul it is very pretty, as they are all amateur performers.) As a crowning point there is an innovation,
in the shape of masquerades. What will they have
next? Plays they have had in former years, masquerades never.

On the opening play this season, one of the actors
went round to the inhabitants to solicit their patronage: we took a box, as it was the first time, and my son
made his début amongst the audience of a theatre. We
took him, thinking he would be gratified listening to the
music; nor were we disappointed, he was in ecstasies,
and applauded as loudly as he could. Whether I did
right or wrong in taking him is a question, for his
appearance has set a fashion; he was the only child in
the theatre; but next time I went it was crowded with
children. I dare say you imagine I am vain about my
boy; if I am, you must not blame me, others would
make me so, and his father would persuade me that I
am; but it is not so. I have declared I will never
mention him in any of my future letters; how I shall
keep my word time alone will prove.

Speaking of children one day, the general told us
that on his journey to Kamschatka he stopped at a
peasant's cottage, and whilst there the wife was confined
of three children at a birth; they were healthy and
doing well, so he presented the mother with a hundred
silver roubles, saying that each time she had that number he would present her with a like sum, if she would
only let him know. He says Siberia wants population I
I suppose every peasant would be pleased to present
her lord with a similar number.

There has been a grand disturbance in the town.
You will perhaps remember I told you Mr. Atkinson
went to the river Hook to paint a waterfall for a gentleman living here. He is a gold-seeker, and besides
enormously wealthy, having married the niece of the
rich Kouznitzoff: his priesk is somewhere near the
Lena. Wishing to make fresh explorations, he set fire to
the forest around, thus laying waste an immense extent of wood, and of course destroying and driving the
animals away. The Yakouts living in the vicinity were
entirely deprived of the means of subsistence by this
conflagration, as in this wood they were accustomed to
hunt the sable and other animals. The head men
amongst the tribe applied to Zanadvoroff for some
remuneration, he having deprived them of their livelihood; but he refused to comply with their request, and
treated the poor fellows with great contempt. After
numerous rebuffs, they wrote a report to the Governor-general, representing their grievances, but through
bribery it was suppressed.

Finding nothing was done in the affair, an old man,
the head of the tribe, believing that could their case be
brought before the general they would obtain justice,
determined upon going to Irkoutsk himself. He started
on foot, walking the whole distance. After many a
weary day's march, he at length arrived in the capital
of Eastern Siberia; and went immediately to the Ispravonick, but was unable to get any redress. One day an
officer passing near the Ispravonick's, the old man became emboldened, and, addressing him, asked if he could
direct him how to proceed; the gentleman put many
questions to him, and, learning all the particulars, bade
him follow, as he was on his way to the general. Leaving
the peasant outside, and finding the general alone, he
acquainted him with the whole affair. The Yakout was
ordered in and examined; he repeated his story; and directions were given that he should be taken care of, lodged,
and fed. The general then despatched a messenger
for the Ispravonick, and on his arrival asked him why
this case had not been brought under his notice. The
Ispravonick, quite confounded, stammered forth some
lame excuses, such as they had not had time to see into
the affair. The general was in a great rage, demanding
what he meant by saying there had not been time, when
more than a year had elapsed. The thing was plain
to every one, bribery had been at work. Officers were
sent off immediately to enquire into the matter, and
to bring back a true and faithful account.

One morning, as Mr. Atkinson was sitting with
Zanadvoroff (the transgressor in this affair), a gendarme officer arrived,
– you must understand these
officers form part of the society in Irkoutsk, He was
exceedingly amiable to all, and Mr. Atkinson bade them
adieu, just as he and Zanadvoroff were excusing themselves on business. On coming home, he told me what
had occurred, saying he was convinced that Zanadvoroff was Focht's prisoner: which was true. However, it
appears, that, after he was examined, he made a statement to some one to the effect that he had been ill
treated, he having given the general two thousand
roubles to settle the matter. This coming to the ears
of the latter, he forthwith despatched Cossacks to desire
every officer in Irkoutsk to attend on a certain day and
hour at his residence. All went in full uniform, but
none knew for what reason they had been convoked.
When they were assembled, the general, arrayed likewise in full uniform and with all his decorations on
him, marched into the room; Zanadvoroff and Focht
being there also. Saluting all, he took his seat, and in
a commanding tone demanded of Zanadvoroff if it was
true that he had declared that he (the general) had
received two thousand roubles. He answered, 'Yes!
I have said so, and it is quite true.' The general almost
bounded from his seat. He had called all his officers
together, that they might hear this man disavow the
charge he had brought against him; and, instead of doing so, he boldly asserted that he had given the money,
and called upon Moltchanoff, the private secretary
(who I told you in a former letter had married the
young Princess Volkonsky), to confirm what he had said,
for it was to him he had paid it
– two thousand for
the general, and a thousand for himself. He was not
present, so a mounted Cossack was sent off immediately to bring him. When he arrived, he denied
having received the money; but Zanadvoroff stood
firm to his story.

The case is now being entered into; meanwhile, the
general has despatched a courier to Petersburg stating
the whole affair, and it is presumed the trial will take
place there, as he does not desire the dispute to be
decided here. No one believes him to be guilty; but
Moltchanoff, they are persuaded, has pocketed the three
thousand roubles, leading this man to believe the
general had received it. What short-sighted mortals
we are! Had Zanadvoroff paid these poor peasants
about five hundred roubles, he might have settled the
whole business, whereas now it will cost him not
only his fortune, but his liberty. This subject has
been the constant theme of conversation; and such
things as these give a little variety to their otherwise
monotonous life.

I find the Troubitskois have abandoned the idea of
quitting Irkoutsk and exile, for they have made great
alterations in their house, having added more rooms to
it: the reason is, the vast change in their circumstances
caused by the death of the Countess Laval, mother
to the princess; I understand that previously their
means were very straitened, as the husband's property
had been confiscated. The building was not quite
completed, when one of the daughters married – a
union that gave great satisfaction, the bridegroom being
the son of Davidoff, one of the exiles, but not born in
Siberia. It is said that marriages, like fevers, are contagious. The wedding was scarcely concluded when the
eldest daughter was engaged to the Governor of Kiachta,
and the third is also demanded in marriage. This result
is very different from what a Siberian in Barnaoul
would expect if he added rooms to his old house. A
gentleman there consulted Mr. Atkinson concerning
some alterations he desired to make. He wished for
more space; his ball-rooms were good, but he wanted
tea and supper-rooms: if anything could be devised
without levelling the house, he should be glad; but to
the proposal of adding rooms, he objected, and we
found out that he was superstitious enough to believe
that such an act would end in death to one of the
family. The matter terminated by his deciding that
rooms should be built a short distance from the house,
and joined to it by a passage, as that would never
be noticed. The idea has often amused us since. In
Irkoutsk the alteration has ended in marriages, not
deaths.

I was talking one day with Prince Troubitskoi about
your not giving me credit for sleeping on horseback: you
say 'travellers' stories are marvellous,' but he quite believes me; for he tells me, that during the war, when
Napoleon took Moscow, he once slept half an hour
on horseback. In the very hot weather I have sometimes been so overpowered by the heat that I feared I
might drop off to sleep and let the child fall. I am
better pleased now that he is able to sit a horse himself; but I still have my fears about his falling from
the pavoska. I am very particular about its being
buttoned up (that is to say, the apron) at night
Speaking on this subject with Mr. Taskin, he told me
that after the death of his wife, he was on his road from
Nertchinsk to Irkoutsk, with his three children. Waking up in the middle of a station, he felt about to see
if all the children were right, and could find but two:
he stopped the pavoska, search was made, but the child
was gone! In an agony of mind he bid them take a
horse out of harness: a Cossack mounted him, for he
was himself in such a state he could not go. About a
verst away the little creature was found in the middle
of the road, fast asleep on the snow, for it was in
winter; this makes me more anxious than before.

A most hospitable and amiable family here I have
not yet mentioned, and still scarcely a Sunday passes
but we dine with them; he is a merchant, and, besides,
mayor of the town, we have given him the honourable
appellation of 'lord mayor.' He is a very clever man,
and, being a merchant, has had every opportunity of
collecting valuable Chinese ornaments; he has also a
splendid library, besides extensive hot-houses. He
spends enormous sums of money in collecting plants,
and (would you credit it?) he understands nothing about
them! The only benefit he derives from his large outlay is to walk through his hot-houses after dinner, and
smoke his cigar. Not one of the family has any real
love for flowers. His eldest daughter is a clever girl,
but with no taste for horticulture; she is, however, an
excellent musician, and many a pleasant hour do we
spend in hearing her play. The wife is no lover of
flowers; indeed I do not know what she is a lover
of: she belongs to the old school of Siberian wives,
that is, she is literally, an automaton, seldom seen by
visitors, and never visiting. I believe the old lady talks
to me more than she does to anyone, and her confidence
in me is great. This being the first winter her daughter
mixes in society, she has begged of me to take charge
of her.

Would you like to know how these hot-houses are
managed? The mayor has a friend, a counsellor, who
undertakes the whole arrangement, and I can assure
you he does it well. The one likes to have the shrubs
and plants from vanity, and, having a well-stocked
purse, is able to gratify it; the other loves them for
themselves, and, not having the pecuniary means of
gratifying his passion, is able to do so by serving a
friend, and thus they are mutually satisfied. But it is
quite amusing to see the 'lord mayor' asking permission to cut his own flowers, or even to gather a
strawberry.

Deficiencies of the Postal Service
– The Bielouka
– Fearful Storm
– Pic-nics in Siberia
– Ill-assorted Marriages
– Presentiment and Discovery of a Murder.

Barnaoul, September 1852.

I HAVE just received your letter dated July; it has been
long on the road, and it appears to me that mine have not
all reached you. I do not understand how it is, there
is evidently something wrong somewhere; the fault does
not lie with us, for Mr. Atkinson himself delivered them
into the hands of my friend the post-master. I was
very particular in gaining the good-will of this important
personage whilst in Irkoutsk, and succeeded so well,
that every case of mine that arrives I receive without the slightest delay, which fact causes a degree of
jealousy amongst some of the good folks of Irkoutsk.
My friend said one day to me, 'I can pick your box out
from a thousand, by the substantial make of it.' I am
very glad you have complied with my request in this
matter, particularly this last season, as at the breaking
up of the rivers, very often the post carriage has been
quite immersed in the water. I saw some dresses the
Princess Troubitskoi had received, so utterly ruined
that there was no possibility of wearing them: and a
young lady about to be married had the principal part
of her trousseau sent from Petersburg in a case so
slight that it was smashed to atoms, and half the articles
were either lost or stolen. What were saved were
entirely useless; so much so, that the post-master sent
to her to say a box had arrived, and would she call and
see it? She went, but never took the things away;
and she would get no redress, the post being only
answerable if the case is lost, not if it is damaged.
You cannot wonder at their being broken, when the
enormous distance is taken into account, and their
removal to a different carriage at every station, which is
effected by flinging them from one vehicle to the other,
utterly regardless of any injury they might sustain.
I have tried to convince the ladies, but with no result,
how much wiser it would be to expend a little more on
the post by the extra weight in the box, and receive
everything in good order. The different articles sent
to me look as though they had just left the magazine,
thanks to the thickness of the packing cases.

We are now living in the house of a friend, overlooking the Ob, which at this season is but little larger
than the Neva, although we have crossed it when it was
twelve versts broad, that is, when the snow was melting
in the mountains in June. You cannot conceive what
a hearty welcome we met with from all our old friends;
but the joy of meeting was to me mingled with a little
sadness, for I now feel that when I bid farewell this
time, it will be for ever. Formerly, on saying adieu, it
was with the hope of meeting again; now each step we
take is a farewell to places and persons whom we have
not only learned to respect, but to love; to me it is the
great drawback from staying long in one place; at least,
long enough to form friendships, which we have done,
and in Barnaoul particularly.

I have been induced, through the very urgent entreaties of our friends, to allow my husband to go alone this
summer to ascend the Bielouka. I consented the more
readily, as I had visited the regions round about before;
and, besides, Colonel Sokolovsky had intended joining
him in this excursion. He was prevented by his departure for Petersburg, which did not take place till the
8th of August, and Mr. Atkinson having remained to
see him off, the season was far advanced. Many of our
friends thought it too late, as the winter begins in the
high regions so early; but he did not seem inclined to
defer his journey till another season. He now tells me
he regrets much that I did not go, as I have missed
some fine scenery; and besides, he says, he missed his
companion. He also missed the little arrangements I
was able to make for our comfort; I always tried to
do this, though scarcely able, at times, to move from
fatigue.

One stormy night he took up his abode under some
larch trees, and it is only when the rain is exceedingly
heavy that it penetrates them. Here he saw a storm
more terrible, he believes, than any we had ever experienced. He had not slept more than two hours,
when he was awakened by a loud clap of thunder,
and he sat up. The clouds, he says, appeared hanging
on the tops of the trees, and the thunder reverberated
among the mountain in sawful grandeur; he counted
the seconds between each flash and report, and found
the storm was fast approaching. When he could count
only six the bellowing was frightful, every flash came
nearer; it was soon directly over him, and the lightning
and report were simultaneous. It was as if the
lightning came from the tops of the trees; the very
ground appeared to shake with the thunder; and this
continued the whole night.

All in Barnaoul had spoken of the terrors of a journey
to the Bielouka, but in his letter to me he says: 'It is
only imaginary, and you have gone over places ten
times more difficult. The only thing to be said is, the
snow is unpleasant; but the fording of the rivers and
the ascent of the mountains we have done over and over
again.' Will you believe me? I wept to think that I
had, against my own inclination, yielded to the advice
not to go with him; that storm, as he now describes it
to me, I would have given some years of my existence
to have witnessed. I often wish I had the wings of a
bird, or the wand of a fairy.

Our progress to Barnaoul was very slow, there were
so many places to stop at to bid farewell. There was
Nijni Oudinsk, Kansk, Krasnoiarsk, and then Solaier,
at each of which places we had to stop a day or two;
but at the latter a couple of weeks. Independently of
the final farewell, Mr. Atkinson desired to make some
sketches in the neighbourhood. Here they are determined our stay shall be agreeable. We make frequent
excursions into the surrounding country, and there is
no place equal to Siberia for a pic-nic; we can settle
down on any spot we choose, and ramble about at will.
Each lady takes it in turn to act the hostess, and forward servants with the necessary supplies to the place
of encampment. These assemblies are the most joyous
you can possibly conceive. The ladies start first with
the children; then follow the gentlemen, when all kinds
of games are played, in which the latter, old and young,
join in right good earnest; casting all cares to the
winds, they become children for the time, jumping,
leaping, running, and dancing.

Since we last visited Barnaoul Hymen has been busy.
One couple, both young, but so unsuited, have been
joined together in matrimony, having been each fascinated with the dancing of the other. I understand
that at home they are the most wretched beings in
existence, and are ever seeking for diversion abroad.
What an idea they must have of wedded life! The
next couple is made up of a young lady of two and
twenty, and a bridegroom of seventy. There is one
thing to be said in favour of this last marriage, that it
serves to divert our evenings in society. The last
winter we spent here, he wooed the Terpsichorean muse
in the company of two ladies; his present wife and
another young lady only seventeen. However, when
we were in Irkoutsk, the news reached us, that the
Marquis had broached the subject of marriage to
General A., who most politely declined the honour
intended for his daughter; the lover being nearly thirty
years his senior. The Marquis, it is stated, rushed off
in despair, and before the matter was talked about, to the
father of the other young lady, and was accepted. Even
in Irkoutsk it added to our merriment. The Princess
Troubitskoi told me she gave him great offence when he
was there some few years back; so much so, that he
never called to see her, or even deigned to do more than
bow to her when he met her in society, although he had
sought her acquaintance with some earnestness. The
offence was, her expressing her surprise at his being
able to dance so well at his age; 'quite as well as when
I saw you,' she said, 'dancing at a ball at my mother's;
but I was then a very little girl, and you were a young
man, so I do not suppose you remember me.' Now
there is another gentleman, a general in Tomsk, of the
same age as the Marquis, who has also taken unto himself a wife; but he has married in reason, the lady
is about forty: no one even dreams of mentioning
them.

I believe I have forgotten to tell you that when in Krasnoiarsk we called upon the Davidoffs. I told you the
son married a Troubitskoi. Knowing one of the exiles
acts as a talisman to an introduction to the others. Like
all of them, this family is a most amiable one; we found
them living in the outskirts of the town. A year before
our visit they had been joined by their daughters,
whom Mme. Davidoff had left in the care of relations
when she went to join her husband; and, singularly
enough, we hear one of them has married since we
quitted them. When Mr. Davidoff made his appearance
after we had been announced, it was with a declaration
in Russian of how glad he was to see us and make our
acquaintance, ended by an oath, uttered in English;
such a one as would have made an Englishman stare in
England. Speaking on the subject of their exile, he said:
'It was always a source of regret to me that we were
betrayed by an Englishman: whether we were right or
wrong is not the question; but that Englishman pushed
himself into our society, feigning to be our friend,
whereas he was acting the ignoble part of a spy and a
traitor.'

What a storm of hail we had the other day! I never
experienced its equal; scarcely a pane of glass was left
in any window in the town. We were going to an evening
party, and on our way I was surprised to look at the houses
as we passed along. At the Strolemans' we found
the guests assembled, and also a number of men putting
in the panes; at first, I had imagined it was our house
alone that had suffered so much damage. The hospital,
I was told by those who had passed it, had more than a
hundred panes broken. These storms are said to be
frequent, and do great damage.

At this soirée, conversation turned upon presentiment;
some laughed at the idea, others believed in a prognostication of future events, and I listened to the conversation,
as you know it is one of my favourite themes. Each
had something to say either for or against. Mme.
Stroleman said that last summer she was induced to accompany her husband on one of his tours of inspection,
when she took her two little sons with her, thinking
the trip would benefit them. They with their nurse
were in one carriage, and she and her husband in
another. On their return journey an accident happened
to the wheels of the carriage in which the boys
were travelling, so, taking them into their own, the
Colonel bade the yemstchick bring the equipage on as
quickly as he could, and they would stop at the first
village. They did so, and going to the best cottage
alighted; but no sooner did Mme. Stroleman enter the
room than she declared that nothing would induce her
to stop. The Colonel represented to her that the repairs
would not take very long: as soon as the yemstchick
arrived, he would have the matter arranged without
delay, and five in a carriage only suitable to hold two
was unpleasant. She said it was all very true, but stop
there she would not: if they stopped, she was convinced
some harm would happen to them; the very air seemed
teeming with evil.

There was nothing to be done; so the Colonel was
obliged to order the horses, and leave directions that
the repairs should be hastened, and the equipage follow
them to the station. In due time it arrived, and
they continued their journey. Mme. Stroleman said
she had a presentiment that if they had stopped there
they would have been murdered; the place looked
and smelled of murder. The station before they
arrived in Barnaoul they were taking tea, when a
mounted peasant rode up, and, learning the Colonel was
there, said his business was with him. He was required to return, to judge a man who had committed
murder. The master of the cottage where they had
stopped, and where Mme. Stroleman would not remain,
was the culprit. The previous evening a travelling
merchant, a pedlar, had put up at his cottage, and he,
perceiving the man had money, had murdered him
whilst asleep with a topore (a hatchet). This took
place only a few hours before their arrival, and the
murdered man was lying under a trap-door in the very
room in which they had been sitting.

Fortunately, he had been seen to enter the cottage,
and, no one having observed him go away, enquiries were
made, when the murderer said he had left early; but
to the simple peasantry he had a suspicious look. It
seemed strange, also, that the pedlar should have left
so suddenly, without disposing of any of his wares; so
they began to examine into the affair, and at length
discovered what had taken place.

New Year's Day in Russia
– Festivities in Barnaoul
– Chief of the Cossacks
– Peculation by Government Officials
– A Birthday Ball
– Champagne v. Vodky
– Approaching Departure from Barnaoul.

Barnaoul, January 1853.

THE time is fast drawing nigh for our departure; our
friends would not hear of our starting till after Christmas.
We have had no end of balls, concerts, and theatricals;
more gaiety than usual this year, in honour of the new
Natchalnick, Colonel Stroleman having succeeded Colonel
Sokolovsky, who has been promoted to the rank of
General. There is always a grand ball given by the
Natchalnick on new year's eve to the whole town. It
is really a pretty and joyous sight, a brilliant assemblage
full of mirth, congratulating each other as the bells toll
forth the new year. At the moment, which is watched
for with the greatest care, the champagne is poured out,
and there is a general kissing all round. The new year
is a grand festival in Russia
– a constant round of visiting. The ladies sit at home on the first day, and receive
the visits of the gentlemen, and after that the ladies
visit each other.

To return to the ball: it was intended to be very
brilliant. The ladies had done their utmost to promote
the general effect, by each one having a magnificent
new dress for the occasion: and it was curious to see
the post arrive; the number of cases was extraordinary. By the way, whilst I think of it, let me thank
you for the trouble you were at in selecting my dress,
or rather dresses; the green is very pretty and effective,
at night it looks a beautiful blue. The ribbon à la
Pompadour is splendid and much admired; I am glad
ribbons are again in fashion, I am very fond of them.
I wore the white dress for the grand ball; the material
is very pretty; again thanks for everything. Well,
about the middle of the evening, the brilliancy of the
ball was completely clouded by an unlooked-for accident; the lights went out, and left us almost in total
darkness. As I told you before, the candles and various
other articles come from the fair of Irbit. Now, the
Strolemans were unprepared for so large a number
of lights as they needed this year, and had therefore
to purchase some stearine candles in Barnaoul, which
burnt pretty well till about half the candle was used,
and then they did not choose to burn any longer, and
went right out. A servant came and attempted to light
them, but they would not catch, and he then brought the
steps to examine into the matter, and found there were
no wicks. A few others were procured, but nothing like
sufficient to light up the rooms as they ought to have
been; they are very large. I quite felt for our host
and hostess, for they must have been annoyed, particularly this being their first ball since he has been made
Natchalnick. Naturally it was a disappointment to the
ladies, the beauty and freshness of their dresses being
entirely lost; and it is said such trivial things make up
a woman's life.

The last ball I was at I was a little troubled how to
arrange for a head-dress: I had never bought one; what
on earth should I have done with flowers whilst travelling? In Irkoutsk I managed capitally, as Miss Basnin
sent me fresh flowers each time I went out, I was the
only one so indulged. Here we cultivated some in
our rooms, and I had used the last; what was to be
done? I would willingly have gone without, but that
could not be. A sudden idea crossed my husband's
mind, so I sent to Miss Annossoff for some ivy leaves,
when he made me a beautiful wreath interspersed with
red berries made from sealing-wax on the heads of pins,
it really looked nice.

The ladies begged of me to give them the wreath,
when they divided its leaves amongst them, and each
one planted her sprig, as a remembrance of my last
ball in Barnaoul.

I believe I have not mentioned our meeting here a
young man from Kopal, where he had been on government service; from him we gathered a great deal of
news of the place, and of our old friends, and all the
changes that have taken place since we left. Had any
of our old acquaintance known he would have met us,
what messages we should have received! This young
man made terrible complaints of the dreadful fatigues
of the journey, and we learned that, instead of riding
on horseback, he had been carried between two horses.
When I expressed my surprise, he enquired how I had
travelled; and when I said I had ridden, and, moreover, the last summer in the steppe, 123 days successively, he replied, 'I was tired to death in crossing, I
wonder you are not dead.'

Among the several officers in Kopal for whom we
retained feelings of friendship, was the chief of the
Cossacks, a most worthy man. During our sojourn
among them, many circumstances occurred which enabled us to form a just estimate of this man's character: the care which he bestowed on those under his
charge; his sorrow when he saw his men cut down by
sickness, and nothing provided to alleviate their sufferings. Here they had to winter, exposed to all the
rigour of the climate; and his own small resources were
constantly drawn upon to supply a few comforts to the
sick and dying: but, alas! these were small in comparison
with their wants.

Late in the autumn the caravans arrived with stores,
consisting principally of rye-flour, black croop (a grain
much used for food), also oats for the artillery horses.
These articles were delivered in Kopal, and placed under
the care of the chief of the Cossacks. When the flour
was examined, it was found to be of the worst description, and scarcely fit for horses; the grain sent for them
was also bad. Ismaeloff objected to receive these stores
from the contractors, and sent a report to the proper
quarter in Omsk, saying he had rejected the whole of
the rye-flour as unfit; he also urged that other supplies
should be sent forthwith, or the people would have
nothing to subsist on.

To this despatch he received a reply which showed
that the contractors had not been inactive, telling him
that his conduct had already been complained of, and
they were indignant at his rejecting flour of a superior
quality to that which they had agreed to supply; also
that the general under whose authority and inspection
these stores had been purchased was perfectly satisfied;
and suggesting to the commander that he had better
attend to his own duties instead of meddling with those
of his superiors, whom he had only to obey. From this
period his removal and degradation were decided on by
those high in office under the Governor-general. Had
his despatch reached Prince Gortchakoff, there is no
doubt that the real delinquents would have been exposed, and the poor Cossacks would have received wholesome food. Ismaeloff was deemed too dangerous to
be left in a position where he could communicate with
the prince, and measures were instantly adopted to
prevent it.

Up to this period all letters, despatches, and other
papers, were delivered to the chief of the Cossacks, when
they were sealed up in bags by him, and sent under
charge of three Cossacks to Aiagooz, and thence by the
Cossack post to Omsk. An order was received from
the prince, saying that in future the despatch bags were
to be made up by the civil authorities, by whom they
would be forwarded under a guard of Cossacks. By this
arrangement, every letter or report which the Cossack
chief wrote could be examined and suppressed, if necessary. This placed Ismaeloff under the surveillance of
the head of the civil department and the officers in
Omsk. At length his enemies succeeded in concocting
a series of charges against him, which were laid before
the Governor-general, by whom the Cossack chief was
summoned to Omsk. Knowing that his insidious
foes would stop at nothing to effect his ruin, and
that his bare assertions of innocence would have no
weight, and to crown all having heard that he was to
be made a soldier, he determined that they should
not exult over his degradation. Poor fellow! in a fit
of despair he placed two cartridges in his mouth, ignited
them, and in a moment his spirit was beyond the reach
of his persecutors. What became of his wife and son
I have never been able to learn.

I have good reason to remember the Cossack post,
for I left a box filled with different articles to be forwarded to Aiagooz by it; but on reaching that place no
box, nor yet a magnificent pair of horns from a wild sheep
shot by my husband, was there to meet us. Months
later, on our arrival in Barnaoul, a letter was written
to Prince Gortchakoff, begging of him to make enquiries.
He immediately replied, saying, that, concerning our
effects left in Kopal, he hastened to inform us that
since our departure the officer who commanded that
post had committed suicide; that Baron Vrangle had
left for Petersburg, having definitively given up his late
occupation; and that these complicated circumstances
rendered it rather difficult to obtain information respecting our box, &c.; nevertheless, he would not fail to
do all that depended upon himself to serve us, and for
this purpose he would write that very day to Colonel
Keil (who, by the way, I told you was removed from
Bisk to Semipolatinsk, and who we have just now learned
is dead), as the only person who could for the moment
procure him the best account of the affair. Be assured
I gave up all hope of ever seeing it more.

As I wrote to you, we left Barnaoul for Irkoutsk,
but without another word of the unfortunate box.
Two years have passed and here we are again; but,
alas! nothing has been heard of it. I was determined
not to think any more about it, and only hoped that
no harm had happened to the other cases, &c., we
had left. These Colonel Sokolovsky, who had kindly
taken charge of them, forwarded a few days after our
arrival. It was a long task to open all; and we had
not half done when bedtime arrived. However, in
spite of my husband's remonstrances, I was determined
to have one box more opened, as I could not conceive
what its contents could be; I said I merely wanted a
glance: when, can you judge of my astonishment?
– it
was the lost one. Where had it come from? On rising
the following morning, I believed for a second that I
had been dreaming; but no, there, safe enough, was
the wanderer. I was now all anxiety to see the Colonel.
At dinner we met, when I questioned him about the
box, and he declared we had left it with him. At
length, after much talking, he recollected that an
ouradnick had arrived with it from the prince, and
that he had placed it together with our other trunks.
I was very much pleased to have it; it was like meeting
with an old friend who for years had been astray.
But, alas! the precious horns were gone; we never
found them: we had forgotten to mention them in our
letter to the prince, and it was not worth writing about
again.

I am quite confident I wrote you the particulars
of Alatau's birthday. I remember well giving a long
description, knowing all these little matters interest
you. On this, his fourth birthday, he had a grand ball.
All our friends, old, young, and middle-aged, came, and
right merrily was the evening spent. I was only going
to have three musicians, thinking it quite sufficient for
my little folks, but Colonel Kavanka sent me the whole
band, to my great surprise; indeed, all are so kind to
us wanderers. Another amiable action. The house we
are inhabiting, as I told you, belongs to a friend who is
now located at Zmeinogorsk, so the rooms are not overstocked with furniture. On the occasion of this grand
ball, finding we should be short of seats in the supper-room, I mentioned it to Mme. Stroleman, who sent
immediately to her country-house for a couple of dozen
chairs; then she sent me her head cook, he being
superior to mine, also her principal waiting-man;
indeed, each house one visits there is always the same
set of servants, the one borrows of the other for every
festival. I believe the great feature of the evening was
my Christmas pudding. My fame is spreading; it was
just as great a wonder to them as a fine block of Siberian
ice would be to you. It makes me sigh when I think I
shall shortly quit Siberia, its blocks of ice, its snow-clad mountains, its lovely scenery, and all that is sublime in nature, to return to a town life, which has not
the same charms for me. I could almost wish I were
a Kirghis, wandering forth like them, under a serene
sky, in search of mountain pastures. Happy people!
free and unfettered by any customs of so-called civilised
life. In those beloved mountains, how many a wild
idea has crossed my brain, how many a spot have we
fixed upon to be our final resting-place in this world of
care! It was usually under the shade of a tree, and
where the mountain rill could be heard, which fancy
led me to believe would soothe the spirit to rest.

I do not believe I shall be able to write to you again
before leaving this town; but I fancy we shall make
some stay in Ekaterinburg; if so, from there you will
probably hear from me. The gentlemen are off on a
shooting expedition; on their return we generally have
plenty of amusing anecdotes. The ladies declare they
could buy the birds at one tenth part of the cost from
the dealers. It would amuse you to see the quantity of
champagne they take with them. There are times when
these gentlemen cook in champagne the fish which is
caught for them; and this is one of their great delicacies.
I must say I have no fancy for it.

Two men, returning from the gold-washing, determined upon buying a bottle of champagne, having a
great desire to test the strength of their masters'
favourite drink. They argued what its strength must be;
considering that a bottle of vodky cost forty kopecks
and that was very strong, what must champagne be
costing thirteen times as much per bottle? Thus, at the
first place they reached where champagne could be
bought, they ordered a bottle. It was poured into
tumblers, but when they saw it effervescing they
became greatly alarmed; still they determined (having
spent so much money) to try its power. They considered their masters must have throats of iron to
drink anything so strong. A signal was agreed upon,
when they were to swallow it off at once; but before
doing so they arose, and embracing took a final
farewell. Joining hands, they seized their glasses,
and with a desperate resolve emptied them; when
they stared at each other in astonishment, exclaiming,
'Nechevo! (it is nothing!) – it is exactly like water;'
and concluded that their masters were great simpletons
for drinking such rubbish, and paying so much money
for it, when they could have a whole bottle of vodky
for forty kopecks.

LAST week only I received your letter, dated February
1853, now three months old. Need I tell you that it
was, after so long a silence, a great pleasure, especially
coming from you? I fear I am not in the mood to write
you a long letter, as my ideas are all chilled by the
intense cold weather, which is making us all shiver
again, and that, too, just at midsummer. Oh! for
Siberia, with its bright sunny sky. The climate is far
better than this; there you find a clear and pure atmosphere, but here it is cloudy; rain and snow, with very
strong winds, sharp and cutting.

I dare say you think our progress homeward is very
slow. On Saturday next we shall start on our last excursion in the Oural mountains; this will be short, and
soon ended, after which I hope to reduce the distance
between us. I have not told you anything of our
journey here. Several of our Barnaoul friends conducted us to the first station, ladies and gentlemen
both; here we all partook of refreshment; then in
champagne they wished us a happy and prosperous
journey, when we took leave of our kind friends,
probably for ever.

We had several zavods to call at, to which we had to
turn aside; but though it took us out of our road,
we could not think of quitting without bidding adieu
to all. The last we visited was the brother of General
Sokolovsky. He likewise, with several of his friends,
conducted us to the first station from his place. We
drove to the Ispravonick's house, where two ladies met
us, and embraced me as if I were an old acquaintance.

We had not been long in the house, ere the two
ladies vanished to order tea, and the gentlemen sat
down to consult nearly the only books they ever read,
viz. cards: they had carried them in their pockets for
that purpose. Having nothing better to do, I stood by
watching the game. The old lady was not long ere she
returned to the room; coming close up she touched me,
I glanced at her, when she cast her eyes down towards
her hand, mine followed, when I perceived she had a
pack of cards. Looking once more narrowly into her
face, I suddenly recognised my old friend the apothecary's wife from Zmeinogorsk. I could not refrain from
a smile, and it would have been amusing to you could
you have seen the old lady's face when I remembered
her. Her husband had been occupying the position of
Ispravonick during the last two years.

I had to follow the good but simple-minded lady into
another room. I would gladly have excused myself
from doing such a foolish thing as foretelling future
events by cards, but the kind creature believed I did
not like to be troubled. I told her, most cheerfully
would I lay the cards out twenty times, I was not afraid
of trouble. I perceived I should give offence if I said it
was nonsense, so went through the ordeal of peeping
into futurity. I hope they will not find out I have been
dealing in the black art, and burn me for a witch when
I return home
– home! that one little word, how many
a recollection does it stir up in one's mind! We have
been accustomed to have a new home nightly; but the
home of homes is one's birthplace. I often wonder
what Alatau's feelings will be when he grows up; what
place he will recognise as his home. Most probably,
when he becomes a man, Kopal will no longer be a
fortress; but his birthplace he will be sure to recognise,
from the celebrated spring Tamchiboulac. The state of
the weather without reminds me, as I am speaking of
Kopal, how different my position is now to what it
was there, where we were obliged to hang up quilts,
cloaks, and coats, to keep out the wind, snow, and rain;
unwelcome intruders into a house not built like a
palace. When I had a candle to burn, it was impossible
to light it without taking the very necessary precaution
of covering up the window to keep out the bouran;
whereas now I am in a warm room, and surrounded by
every comfort. I should probably shock you did I say
which I prefer.

The road we travelled from the zavods was not the
great post-road to Ekaterinburg, we were going across
the country; when such is the case we always meet with
prettier cottages, more tastefully decorated, and oftentimes nestled by the side of a wood. At some distance
from a very pretty spot we came upon an old couple;
the man and woman both were kneeling on the ground,
with outstretched arms, and sobbing painfully. It
appeared that their only son, a lad about fourteen or
fifteen, had just been taken away for a soldier. The
cart which carried him off they had followed till they
could see it no longer. We soon came up with it, when
I expected to find the boy in tears; but, on the contrary, he looked as gay and happy as possible, feasting
on white bread, probably the parting gift. I felt sorry
for the parents, perhaps it was the last time they would
ever see him; it is hard to have the children dragged
away thus. At one station we met with a Jew, a really
superior man, who complained bitterly of his hard fate.
Three of his sons had been taken from him at different
periods; and he said it was contrary to his creed that
they should serve as soldiers.

It is needless to tell you we were welcomed with great
heartiness on our return here by all our old friends.
We arrived just in time for the carnival. This festival
is spent in much the same way in all Russian towns.
There is the usual amount of balls and parties, and the
ladies are dressed with exquisite taste. Here they have
a custom not found in Petersburg. In each house you
enter during this week, and at whatever time of the
day it may be, you are expected to partake of a blini,
a kind of pancake, only much lighter, served with
clarified butter and caviar, which latter no one appears
to understand that I cannot eat it, especially after living
in Russia such a number of years. After the blini, of
which there are a great variety, comes coffee or tea; and
the more you eat and drink, the more honour you are
considered to confer on your host.

But heaven preserve me from being in Ekaterinburg again at Easter. I will not say the booming of
the bells was not grand for awhile, but at last it became
positively deafening; we are living close to a church,
the bells of which never ceased during the whole of
Easter week. I do not know if you are aware that
whoever chooses is at liberty to ring the bells this
festival, and, unfortunately for my comfort, amateurs
were not wanting. I should really have been ungenerous enough to rejoice had the same fate happened to the
bells here as happened to one in Barnaoul. The officers
had all contributed to the purchase of a very large bell,
and the hanging of it was to be a great festival. A
vast concourse of people met at the church in grand
gala costume; the service was performed, and afterwards they commenced elevating the bell to its position
in the belfry; but, when about half raised, snap went the
rope, and you may judge the fate of the bell. The
officers and ladies were sadly mortified, as it had cost a
large sum of money; and still more so when they learned
that the disaster was occasioned by the niggardliness
of the priest, who had pocketed the money which he
had received for a new rope, and substituted an old
one. You may also have an idea of the confusion that
was created; but, fortunately, no one was hurt or injured in any way.

Of course the grandest and most effective ball during
Easter was at General Glinka's. At supper he adopts
the Siberian fashion of not sitting with the guests,
but walking round the tables, and seeing that all are
well attended to. Next to me sat a friend of his,
a comely lady of fifty, extremely amusing and good-natured, and who had entered the bonds of matrimony. I had congratulated her; and, when the General
stopped near me to enquire after my little mountain
hero, I congratulated him on his friend's marriage,
as is customary. I was ignorant that it was a sore
point with the lady. It appeared that the General was
constantly bantering her about this marriage. The
bridegroom is an old man; he had been obliged to be
carried up stairs to the church, and was also accommodated with a chair, being quite unable to stand during
the ceremony; moreover, his habits whilst eating are so
repugnant, that it is impossible to sit at table with him,
so his daughter and she always take their meals alone.

She said: 'You do not for an instant suppose I married
from any love I bore him. I can assure you it was
simply to give me a position in society; for even at my
age I am obliged to be very circumspect, otherwise I
lay myself open to remarks; and I confess I am fond
of my game at cards, and enjoy society amazingly, I
can now wear a cap,' (only married ladies are supposed
to wear them), 'go where I please, and go home when I
please, without it being thought improper. I had a
sufficiency to live upon; and I wanted nothing from him
but the position.' She has done a most praiseworthy
thing in devoting herself to the improvement of his
daughter, and gives up many of her own pleasures to
accompany her into society. She is just now greatly
rejoiced at having received an offer of marriage for
the young lady, who is quite willing, so the wedding
will take place this autumn; 'and then,' she says, 'I
shall be quite at liberty to indulge myself.'

There are several English mechanics living at Ekaterinburg; and you would be amused to witness their
struggles to outvie each other in splendour. One has
his carriage and his tiger, therefore does not deign to
associate with his countrymen who have not. The
General patronises this family, and it is whispered, on
account of the good fare he gets.

We deviated from our route to call at Iloutroffsky,
to bid farewell to our friends the exiles, and spent three
days with them! What a welcome we met with! As for
the little mountain, he was nearly devoured. Then we
had a thousand questions to answer about their comrades, from whom they had been separated for years.
Having satisfied them on all these points, our journey
in regions where few had ever ventured, and in parts
probably where man had never set his foot, was talked
over and discussed.

It was very late when we separated to seek rest. The
following day we went to visit a school which the exiles
have established here for both boys and girls; the latter
have a matron, whose duty it is to teach them sewing
and embroidery, in which they are quite proficient.

The boys, amongst other things, are taught drawing,
at least those who display any taste for it; and for
this purpose they are supplied with pencils and paper:
but all their other studies, with the exception of
reading, are acquired without either books or paper.
At one end of the room there is a black board on which
everything is taught, and all their lessons, maps, &c., are
marked down. Writing is taught by means of sand
levelled along all the desks, on which each scholar writes
with a pointed stick, and some of the boys, we were
told, are really clever.

Amongst the exiles was a Mr. Tiesenhausen, an old
gentleman, whom we found in a state of great excitement, having just received intelligence that he was
pardoned; he could think and speak of nothing else
but his return to his wife. The few days that intervened
between his receiving his release from banishment and
his departure appeared, I believe, as irksome to him as
his whole twenty-eight years of exile. At length the
hour arrived: he could scarcely spare time to take
leave of his friends and comrades. News has just
been received of him. He joined his wife in Courland.
After the first meeting was over he grew dissatisfied.
In the first place, he left her young, and now finds
it difficult to reconcile himself to her altered appearance: besides which, he finds no companionship
in her society, their tastes and habits, from long
separation, being totally different. He is now just
as anxious to return to Siberia as he was to leave it;
and is said to be sighing and bewailing his unfortunate
lot, which gave him freedom, and deprived him of
his old comrades, with whom he had passed, even in
banishment, many a pleasant hour.

The day before leaving Iloutroffsky a young naval
officer arrived. He was on his way to join his vessel
at Okhotsk, accompanied by his wife, an English
woman, who was some years older than her husband.
She was nervous, and dreaded the journey before
her; indeed they both appeared in a fright, and she
believed she should die. I shall not be at all surprised
to hear she is dead; as she had excited herself so much,
that she was in a fever, and had to consult the doctor.
I tried my utmost to encourage her, saying I was convinced that, having once accomplished the journey, she
would think nothing of encountering it a second time;
but I could not comfort her
– she seemed unhappy.
The following day they left before us, when many comparisons were made in favour of my husband. Our
friends had observed, and borne in mind, with what
care and attention I had been placed in the sledge, and
covered up years before; whereas she, poor woman,
had to get in herself, without assistance. Although
Russians themselves, they all agreed they were far behind
Englishmen in the care of their wives; and, though
we had not so many luxuries in our sledge as this
couple had, still there was a snugness and comfort
which neither of them seemed to comprehend, but
which our friends did perfectly. I could not but pity
them both; a long journey before them, and, seemingly,
so little companionship.

Speaking of doctors, there is a female one at Iloutroffsky. She has been properly educated, and has passed
her examination at Kazan; she is a young woman of
about five and twenty, and principally practises as a midwife. I met her at the house of one of the exiles. How
strange and sad it seems to see highly talented men,
who have been accustomed to the most refined society,
mingling with the peasantry! Even their tables are
spread, and their food placed upon them, in a similar
manner. Iakooshkin lived the most retired of all: he
took me to see his dwelling, that I might be able to tell
his friends what it was like. It was as scantily furnished
as the abode of a hermit; but books, his great source
of delight, he had in numbers. He told me that
an old servant lived with him, whom he had had ever
since his arrival at Iloutroffsky. Whatever it was her
will and pleasure to give him he ate, and never but
once had been unfortunate enough to make a remark;
but it was a soup which was particularly good, and by
accident he said so. For six whole months he never had
a change; after that he was very guarded in expressing
a liking for anything. He forbore telling her it had
become extremely distasteful to him, for fear of wounding her feelings.

From Iloutroffsky we started to pay a passing visit
to the fair at Irbit. What a singular sight presents
itself to a stranger! Here are assembled persons
from nearly every part of the world, and their varied
costumes and languages are most interesting to see and
listen to. At this fair scarcely anything you can name
but can be purchased. It was remarkable the number
of acquaintances we met with. There were several from
the steppe: some we recognised, and others recognised
us, and screamed out 'Aman!'7 Others, again, were
from Kiachta and Barnaoul. What amused me was
to see the piles and piles of coloured boxes (red predominated), all bound with iron. There is not a peasant's
house without one or more, in which all their treasures
are enclosed.

The Oural Mountains
– The Gold Mines
– A Tea-party in a Thunderstorm
– Costumes of the native Tribes
– Tattooing
– A Fête Day at Iltabanoffsky
– Pleasurable Reminiscences of past Adventures.

Ekaterinburg, September 1853.

ON June 11 we left this town for our trip to the Oural.
At the first station we met Colonel and Madame
Odynetz, niece to General Glinka: we had arranged
to travel together to Zlataoust. The Colonel was going
on a tour of inspection, and his wife was accompanying
him.

Although journeying together, and starting at nearly
the same moment, custom obliged us to go through the
formality of calling at each other's residences to take an
affectionate farewell, and to wish each other a prosperous and happy journey.

The country we have now been over is for the greater
part very uninteresting, and was rendered more so by
the bad weather. The first place we stopped at was
Syssertskoi Zavod iron-works. We took up our abode
with the director, Mr. Qvashinskoi, whose acquaintance
we had made in Ekaterinburg. During the evening
Mr. Salemerskoi, to whom these iron-works belong,
called to see us. On the following morning we returned
his visit, and walked with him over his hot-houses,
which are very extensive, and contain a magnificent
collection of plants, which must have cost him a large
sum of money, as many are destroyed in the transit.
In Ekaterinburg there are wealthy merchants fond of
horticulture; but who are illiberal enough to cultivate
at the expense of their neighbour, by obtaining cuttings
of his finest plants.

After leaving this zavod, we travelled for about fifty
versts through the same monotonous scenery of low hills
clad with pine forests; then we came upon some large
lakes (extending along the foot of the mountains, which
here were more elevated and picturesque. Our road lay
between lakes for more than five versts: indeed, from
here to Kishtymskoi zavod, it was a succession of
lakes. We were received most kindly by the director,
Mr. Dekhanoff. The Odynetz party had arrived just
before us. It was arranged that the Colonel should go
his tour alone, leaving his wife at this zavod, where my
husband desired to stay a few days, so that we might
visit the environs. All that can be said of them
is that they are pretty; but the scenery requires to be
viewed by sunset, at which time an uninteresting spot
appears lovely.

One day we formed a party to go to our host's farm,
which is situated on a small lake, and contains what I
had never seen before, a Chinese cow. The thick hair
hung round her quite down to the ground, covering her
as with a skirt.

From this zavod we intended making our way to the
gold mines, but first visited Zlataoust, and its manufactories of arms. We staid in the house of Colonel Jose,
where we were received and treated with great hospitality.

On our arrival just outside the town, we found encamped, like a group of gipsies, about 200 peasants,
who were proceeding to Siberia to form a new village.
These migrations are not rare; and it is not at all an
uncommon circumstance to pass whole villages which
have been but recently deserted. The first time this
came under my notice, the driver had stopped to arrange
his horses, and I went in search of water. I entered
one cottage after another, and found them all abandoned; it was as if a plague had passed over the spot.
The act of quitting their homes is not voluntary, but
compulsory.

Our next point was a gold mine near Aoushkool
Ahoush (or Holy Lake). We passed several days most
agreeably with the director, who often accompanied us
in our expeditions into the surrounding country, and
allowed us to wander wherever we liked in search
of the picturesque and beautiful, till the shades of night
crept over mountain and lake, when we would return
to the priesk, planning on our way where we should go
on the following day.

At our departure, our host determined with his two
sisters, who had just arrived on a visit to him, to accompany us to take tea at the lake. The distance was
about fifteen versts. We had far to ride to the next gold
mine, and were anxious to be gone, as we saw dark
clouds gathering, a sure sign of an approaching storm.
On arriving at the lake, although it looked threatening,
they determined not to let us go without our favourite
meal; but just as the somervar was ready, the thunder,
which had been growling in the distance, came nearer
and nearer, and at length the storm burst over us. The
lightning was very vivid, and the thunder echoed from
mountain to mountain; then the rain poured down in
streams. The tea apparatus was hastily put under a
piece of voilock, and we were glad to avail ourselves of
the same shelter. For more than an hour did the storm
rage; at length there was a break in the clouds, when
our host, not in the least disheartened, set to work to
assist in once more preparing the tea; but, alas! with no
better result, for the storm returned upon us with redoubled fury, ere a single glass was poured out. Pitying
the condition of our friends, we were compelled to take
our leave; bidding them adieu, we mounted our horses,
and rode off. The storm continued till we reached the
priesk of Balbouche, where we were fortunate enough
to find the director at home.

We passed several days at Balbouche, exploring its
neighbourhood, which we found pretty. Then we visited
the gold-washing machines, to one of which our host had
given the name of California, from its likeness to those
employed there; but it is pronounced by him to be bad,
and is rarely made use of. The various processes are
very interesting: first, digging the auriferous sand, then
the washing, afterwards the smelting, and, lastly, the
casting it into bars. This latter process I saw performed in Barnaoul. Several officers were present, as
they always are, during the operation. The men employed at the furnace wore a large shield of voilock,
and, besides, have a long handle attached to the crucible
in which the ore is smelted. The bright glare of the
furnace cast on the faces of these men, and on the
molten gold, with the officers in the foreground
anxiously bending forward, makes the whole scene
appear as though they were performing some unholy
rite.

We entered several of the dwellings of the miners,
and found them cleaner and better than almost any we
had before visited. Some of the men had their wives
with them; indeed at most of the priesks we found
women, but these appeared to be of a superior class.

Hence we started for Iltabanoffsky gold mine, where
we were received by the director and his family with
the usual welcome; and a wish was expressed that
Mr. Atkinson might find employment for his pencil for
a lengthened period.

In this locality we found many Bashkir dwellings,
but in a most wretched condition; the inhabitants are
ever dirtier and more dissipated near towns or priesks.
The Toungooz living in the vicinity of the priesks on
the Yenissey equalled these people both in dirt and
dissipation, but the holiday costume of the latter was
much finer. The dress of the Bashkir is made from
sheep-skins, and consists of a pair of trowsers and coat
–
men and women both alike; thus making it difficult to
distinguish the sexes.

The Toungooz costume is made from the skins of deer,
and the boots as well as coat are splendidly embroidered
with glass beads. The dress is formed of boots or
leggings which reach to the thigh, and over these is worn
the coat, which reaches to the tops of the boots, and is
ornamented with strips of leather and strings of beads;
the back, front, and sleeves are embroidered in patterns
with various-coloured beads; then they have a cap to
correspond. But their ordinary dress is the plain skin;
in fact, sometimes they have scarcely any clothing at
all, and neither men nor women wear shirts. The
children in summer invariably run about naked, until
they are ten or twelve years old. The Toungooz
in the region of the Yenissey were the only tribes we
met with who were tattooed; their faces, particularly
those of the women, are sometimes quite enamelled: it
is done with a needle and colour.

Shortly after our arrival we learned there was going
to be a fête in honour of the name-day of one of the
ladies. Grand preparations were being made, and
numbers were expected from the neighbouring priesks,
as well as from Zlataoust. The guests arrived on the
eve of the important day: where they were all lodged
was a mystery. Had a tent been placed for us on the
steppe, we should have been thankful; for we were
nearly devoured in the room we occupied. It is astonishing to us how anyone can live in the way they do here.
The second evening we fared better, as we had a bed
made up in a small drawingroom; that is to say, our
bear-skins were spread on the floor. I believe I have
told you that neither bed nor bed linen is provided in a
Russian house; visitors are expected to bring these
necessaries with them. Various amusements were
arranged for the entertainment; but dancing was the
principal feature. A pavilion standing in front of the
dwelling was tastefully ornamented with branches and
flowers for this purpose; and in the evening it was
prettily lighted with coloured lamps, similar to those we
saw in Maimatchin.

Then there was a shed or outhouse of some kind, in
which a stage was erected, and where we had 'Tableaux
vivants' very well got up. I must say that all seemed
bent on not only amusing themselves, but each other;
and we being the greatest strangers, the greatest attention was paid to us. I cannot say we either of us looked
dressed for a ball. When I heard there was going to be
one, we determined upon proceeding on our journey;
but they pressed us with such good will to stay, that
we consented to do so.

After visiting one or two smaller priesks we went to
Maiass. The house of the director is prettily situated in
a valley; and from my window I had a charming view of
the Ilmantau, which rises close to the town of Maiass.
We had lovely drives into the surrounding country,
visiting lakes, woods, and mountains.

The number of magpies met with throughout Siberia
is surprising. At times, on looking around, they appear
the only things with life in them. Not only in the
steppes and forests, but also in the towns, they collect
in multitudes; and if by chance they can discover linen
hanging anywhere, they peck and tear it into threads,
as I found to my cost in Barnaoul, where my linen was
completely destroyed before I became aware of their
mischievous propensities.

I should have preferred making this little excursion
into these mountains when we first started, and before
we had made our way into Siberia, when probably I
might have been able to give you a more interesting
description than I can possibly do now; for, after
the sublime scenes we have passed through, everything
here seemed tame.

The pleasure is greatly enhanced, and the blood flows
with greater rapidity through the veins, when we have
to think where we shall get a dinner, and are constantly
on the alert looking for one; or when we are uncertain
about the direction in which we shall find water.
If we chance to be on the steppe, and a little rising
ground is seen, how exhilarating is the gallop to it! Then
follows the question to the one who has ascended, 'Do
you see any smoke?' or 'Is water visible?' And when,
perhaps, I am a little weary from the heat and the long
day's ride, a caziole or some other animal is seen bounding over the plain, the cry of the hunters is heard,
and away they gallop, tearing along like madmen.
My horse, hearing these sounds, determines to have a
race also, and away he flies with me on his back; all
the tugging in the world will not stop him; and I, the
lightest of the party, am soon far in advance. Then
all commence calling and hallooing for me to pull up;
but my horse springs forward with apparently renewed
vigour at the shouting from behind, and only slackens
when he is fairly tired, and has frightened the animal
towards the mountains, and probably lost our dinner;
when I turn his head, and retrace my steps, scolding
him the while for his stupidity. I now look back on
all those scenes, and repeat what we have often and
often said, that willingly would we face ten times
more toil and difficulty rather than go down to mother
earth without having beheld them.

Our last journey is accomplished, and we only await
good winter roads to start for Petersburg, where we
hope to join our friends at Christmas.

LONDON
PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO.
NEW-STREET SQUARE

NOTES.

[Page 2]

1Maslinitz, carnival.

2Yemschick, a driver.

3Vodky, a spirit made from corn and potatoes.

[Page 7]

4 Tea-urn.

[Page 86]

5 Magistrate.

[Page 304]

6 Nicholai Bestoujeff visited Irkoutsk in the winter after our departure, to see his old companions in exile. Returning, a poor woman begged of him to take her to Selenginsk, whither she was proceeding to join her husband; she said she would sit on the box with the coachman. He most cordially granted her prayer; but the weather being very severe, and room for only one inside his carriage, he, with his usual goodness of heart, bade her get in, and he himself rode out.
Unfortunately, his kind action proved fatal to him, for he caught cold, which settled on his lungs, bringing on inflammation, from which he died.

[Page 342]

7 Good day.

Spelling in the original book was not always consistent. Variant spellings of words such as kopecks / kopeeks and Yenis-sey / Yenissey have not been standardized. Footnotes have been moved from the individual pages to the end of the book, and numbered.