So we climbed Matterhorn in early August. This was my first real alpine roped climb. It was a great climb in a great location. This climb was done with my friend of the same name - Alex.

We hiked in the afternoon before the day we were to climb. The approach was definitely steep! Here is the peak from just above the lower lake. You can clearly see the Double Dihedrals.

Here is a closer shot of the peak from the cirque below it. The glacier doesn’t look very big, but it is bigger than it looks. Walking along the rocks below the glacier, we noticed that there was actually more glacier below the rocks.

Our camp was situated on a huge flat rock that was a perfect base camp.

We had an amazing sunset that night!

We woke up and started the final approach about 7ish. I am obviously not a morning person!

The route we intended on doing was the North Arete. In retrospect, we must have started the route higher than we should have but it worked out okay. At the end of the first pitch, I set up a belay on the aręte. From here, Alex led up the aręte and around to the right side of the aręte. I then took the lead on pitch three. I got up about half a rope’s length and realized I was looking at the second dihedral of the Double Dihedral route. I realized that I needed to go back to the aręte to get on route, but I just couldn’t resist climbing the dihedral! I made it about half way up the dihedral and set up a belay. Here is Alex following the pitch.

I then led up the rest of the dihedral and then onto the face moves. I guess the face is rated 5.8, but it was not real hard, just exposed. This took me to the top of the false summit which you see in all the pictures of the mountain. Here’s the view from this point.

From here, Alex led the next two pitches of easy climbing to the real summit. This is him on top.

The view was great from the top. You could see Conness and Dana. I think that North Peak and the Cathedral Range are hiding just out of the picture. The Conness glacier is quite visible here.

The descent was uneventful, but here is the parting shot.

A great climb!! We basically combined the North Arete with the Double Dihedral route. The climbing on this mountain was really fun with inspiring views!

Several years ago I hiked in despite dubious weather and was on the start of the route when the lightening started. Honestly, I wasn't that unhappy-- it felt chossier and a bit more intimidating than most of the other routes that I like.

Thanks for the TR. Those pics make me pissed I'm sitting here on my fat A instead of out there. Was over there in Yo this past may but I didn't get out of the valley. This climb in spring reminds me of Mt. Humphreys. I gotta get out there and do it sometime.