In search of a better quality of life, fulfilling our dreams to see the world and provide ourselves and young children with invaluable experiences, we sold our home and possessions in London to begin our journey of a lifetime.
Here we will share our tips, stories, successes and failures, not only for our families and friends, but also to assist those who may have similar adventures in mind. We hope also to inspire those who relish the idea of travelling to newer and unfamiliar pastures but do not know how and those who require some evidence it can be done.

20 January 2011

Iguazu Falls: Up Close And Personal

HAVE you ever had one of those days when, for whatever reason, things just don't go the way you want them to and 'accidents' keep following you around?

That's how it was for me the day I went to Iguazu Falls. I was washing the dishes in our rented apartment and a bowl dropped and smashed over the floor. Then I knocked the owner's key chain on the floor and it, too, broke. Then when I went to Retiro station, where you catch the coach to Iguazu, I showed up two hours before I was supposed to (I misread the time on the ticket). It was one of those days.

I endured the 16-hour non-stop coach journey (longer than it used to take me to fly from London to Las Vegas), arriving in Puerto Iguazu the following morning, only to be welcomed by an almighty storm, the type you see in tropical climates and show no signs of easing.

That this was the first rainfall in Iguazu for 15 days of course did nothing to soothe my situation: I'd been wanting to visit this remarkable world heritage site since arriving in Argentina and the day I made my journey there was a colossal discharge of water from the heavens.

I invested 30 pesos (£5) in a plastic water coat (more like a giant plastic bag to be honest) and, with no signs of the rainfall relenting and having waited nearly three hours at the park's Visitor Center, wasn't feeling the joy. I ventured into the vast wetness.

Upon my arrival in Puerto Iguazu, in the far north-east of Argentina on the border with Brazil and Paraguay, I went straight to the tourist information office inside the bus terminal. For 235 pesos (£37), I purchased the 'Great Adventure' tour, recommended as the best way to see the falls. I wouldn't be disappointed.

But while the rain continued to fall angrily I wondered how much pleasure I could experience whilst feeling soaked and cold (yes, even in summer!).

Thankfully, I'd made the journey by myself and left Jamie and Zenchai behind in Buenos Aires. Pregnant women are not allowed on the Great Adventure and I reckon Zenchai wouldn't have enjoyed the conditions or the long coach ride.

However, I was beginning to regret the decision to arrive and leave the same day. An extra day would have allowed me to see Iguazu if it didn't stop raining and from the Brazilian side. My coach departed for Buenos Aires at 7.15pm. I was on limited time and the clouds were a deep, dark grey in every direction I looked.

I made my first stop within Iguazu jungle the Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat), hoping that later the weather conditions would improve.

Devil's Throat marks the border between Argentina and Brazil. You take a small train from the central station to Cataratas station and walk along a 1km boardwalk to the impressive semi-circular mouth of the falls that is 700m long and 150m wide.

Although the rain started to subside, fully appreciating this immense vision from the viewing deck was difficult under the conditions. I could only think about how spectacular this would be if the sun were shining.

As best I could, I took some photos and headed back to the train station and then for lunch. There are plenty of cheap food options, like chips and hot dogs, if that's your preference. But I found a good buffet restaurant called La Selva, which, fortunately for me, had plenty of vegan options.

The prices were inflated, as you'd expect in a tourist location. For 97 pesos (£15), I was charged what it would cost me to feed my whole family at a similar place in Buenos Aires. Not to worry. I was hungry and, more importantly, the weather was changing. Hooray!

I ventured out again, found the pick-up point for the 8km jeep drive through the jungle along the Yacaratia trail to where I would ride on a speed boat for 6km through the rapids to the lower Iguazu River.

Although there are some 2,600 species living in the Iguazu jungle - and even jaguars - I didn't see much besides some large spiders overhead, racoon-type animals eating tourist leftovers and pretty birds.

The boat trip made up for it, though, and I urge you to take a spare set of clothes, especially if you, like me, decide to visit Iguazu only for the day. After putting on my life vest and my rucksack into a special water-proof bag, I waited for the boat to set off.

I was surprised by how smoothly it went over the water at great speed and seeing the falls in the distance was like approaching the mouth of a dragon. The boat stopped to allow us to take photos and then we packed away our cameras to get up close and personal.

I could feel the power and energy of the falls. The boat entered Devil's Throat and then San Martin, the second largest falls. The waters swirled and were so rough it appeared as if it were bubbling. Here the boat stopped, so we could sample the mightiness of the cascades.

It felt like buckets of water were being tipped on me. I took a deep breath and one last look up at the falls before the boat headed off. We disembarked. My clothes were soaked - money included!

I trekked back along the lower circuit, where there are more outstanding views to be had. I walked along with a charming Canadian family I had met (from Toronto), who even admitted Iguazu is more intimate an experience than Niagara.

Iguazu, by the way, is the name of the river and means Large Water. There are 275 different waterfalls, some as high as 270ft. And what I like also is that the pathways are elevated, to help reduce erosion from the many visitors who come here.

There is a story that says the Iguazu Falls were created when a jealous forest god, furious when a warrior escaped with a young girl down river by canoe, made the riverbed collapse in front of the loving couple. Legend has it the girl plummeted down the falls and turned into a rock, while her lover was made into a tree overlooking her. I couldn't tell you which tree or rock.

My time was nearly up. I joined the Canadian family at their hotel for a drink and then caught a bus (20 minutes ride) back to the bus station, foolishly not allowing myself time to eat (the bus company offers a basic food service).

The journey home took longer than expected. In the middle of the night a window shattered and the bus had to stop for repairs. Then we drove into another storm. There was thunder and lightning. The coach slowed down.

Comfortable as the seats are, after so long in a fixed position (there's nowhere to really get up and walk and stretch) I was feeling stiff all over - my back and bum was sore, my ankles swollen and I won't go into how my starved tummy felt. (Seats are usually in rows of three - two together and a single. I'd recommend the single).

So 24 hours after my last meal, I finally made it back to Buenos Aires, where my excited son celebrated my arrival with drawings of cars.

AbramsFamilyWorldTravel Tip: you can get to Iguazu from Buenos Aires much faster by aeroplane, but it's more costly. My return journey by coach (Via Bariloche company) cost 844 pesos (£130) in semi cama, which is probably the second most luxurious option. Shop around. I purchased my ticket through Omnilineas.

It's pretty spectacular and there's always something special about watching water, be it waterfalls or waves crashing against the shore. I think on a clearer day and with a better camera I could have taken greater photos, but I can only work with the tools I have. White water rafting? That would be pretty serious at this location. The current, as you could imagine, is pretty fierce. Coach trip was tough, I must admit, as it was 16 hours getting there and 18 coming back.

I really like reading your post and this make me feel to be there right now..The pictures are so nice and I love the water fall.It would be a great adventure and enjoyable journey..Your pics are telling how much enjoyable days you spend over there..