I see where you are coming from now, i never really thought about where it was getting the signal from until you just said.

On the romano software there is the option for setting the operating range of the Lambda sensor, either 0-1V,0-5V,5-0V or 0.8-1.6V

When i was having problems right at the very beginning i noticed that on my "DISPLAY" page, which basically shows all the relevant values of things, e.g. rpm, Tinj etc etc then i noticed that the Lambda value was in RED and it was showing circa 4V.

When i checked what it was set at (at default as i started from romano's default settings) it was set at 0-1V, since it was showing 4V i tried changing it to 0-5v but it still stayed red, so then i changed it to 5-0V and now it is green.

When the car is running on gas there is slight deviation from the 4V of around +/- 0.03V

When the engine is turned off, this 4V value reduces down to 0V over a few seconds.

If like you say, the LPG setup merely gets its signal from the petrol ECU which in turn basis its signal times from the Lambda sensor, then i suppose it doesnt really matter what the setting is in the software?

But as to where it is getting its value from is totally beyond me, as i deifinitely havent connected up to the lambda sensor on the downpipe.

My car is a japanese import model, i dont know if that might make any difference to the type of lambda probe?

Do you think it might be worthwhile connecting the grey wire from the lpg loom to my lambda sensor on the downpipe?It is easily accessible and might rule out this rogue value i am getting?, if so, how do i identify which of the lambda wires to connect to?

Sorry for any confusions caused, as like i say, last time i fitted the kit i simply fitted it as it came off the previous car and then did an autocalc, and a few minor tweaks and job was a good one.

Since the laptop used that had the stored data files in had broken, with this one i had to start from scratch.So started from romano defaults.

As you've got a 'funny' import, all you can do is look to see what colour wires come out of the sensor to begin with. It is not necessarily a simple zirconia sensor, but wire colours may give away a linear type.

Make sure you check the oxygen sensor, and not the temperature probe sometimes found on Jap market cars.

It is almost certainly not a 5-0V that's just the purple wire floating.

Connection isn't necessary but is a useful diagnostic - this time you need diagnostics.

Manifold end nozzles make no odds unless they are stupidly restrictive, the sizing element is at the injector end.

just a quick update, i recalibrated the ecu with the autocal, since the gas pressure had been raised to 1.2 bar via the vapouriser, took car for a test drive and was very sluggish on gas

Changed the injector settin on the software from ROMANO to ROMANO FAST, as i was pretty sure ,as stated earlier, that i had the FAST injectors fitted, did another autocalc, and took for another test drive.

She is running mighty fine on LPG now, all i am left to do is rig up the lambda wire nad take for a little bit of real world fine tuning.

Many many thanks to everyone on here for the help and advice, and hopefully some of the info i have posted up here may be of help to someone later down the line too.

I would recommend not trying to splice to the sensor black wire directly (a) it's probably stainless core wire and not easily soldered (b) its a pain when sesnor replacement comes due. Trace the black wire into the engine loom the other side of the sensor plug, and splice there. Beware there is probably screened cable in use, so you'd need to get close to the plug where the inner core is exposed - blue with silver spots at a guess Sometimes there's a funny intermediate cable/adaptor which might be easier to attack.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forumYou cannot reply to topics in this forumYou cannot edit your posts in this forumYou cannot delete your posts in this forumYou cannot post attachments in this forum