Dummy mock up of the Lights. First off the power meter lights are bigger than the window for them but it's ok. The only real draw back is the power leads for the system comes off the top so I'll have to solder leads to put them where I want

Still holding my breath for my kit... ordered October 2016, so hopefully I'll get an email any day now. In the meantime, I'm planning where I want things to go. Just got an Alice frame (not the Anovos one; got tired of waiting for them and ordered from the shop here) getting a real feel for the frame dimensions will inform where I decide to put my motherboard holes for the electronics.

Still holding my breath for my kit... ordered October 2016, so hopefully I'll get an email any day now. In the meantime, I'm planning where I want things to go. Just got an Alice frame (not the Anovos one; got tired of waiting for them and ordered from the shop here) getting a real feel for the frame dimensions will inform where I decide to put my motherboard holes for the electronics.

The original top bolt was too low causing a lot of flex on the plastic motherboard so I
Added a second bolt with spacer up higher (where it should have been originally). The additional bolt makes the pack much more rigid

I started by drilling down from the top of the ear, straight through to the other side. I chose a bit that was the same width of the starter holes for the Anovos-supplied parts.

For the hole with the switch, drilled again down from the top with a bit the same width as the threads on the switch. Next, I chose a drill bit wide enough that the kit switch could fit easily in the hole it would drill. I then started drilling very carefully from the bottom until the hole was just deep enough that the threads protruded enough to screw the nut on the switch. At times, I was allowing the drill the turn only once between test fittings.

The switch went deep enough into the body of the ear that I had to cut a channel in between the holes so that the light could be inserted sufficiently deep into its hole. In the pic below, you can see where the Dremel cutting wheel got away from me - I'll have to fix that at some point

For the wire routing, I drilled a hole in the clear emitter tube and ran the plug down to the control board. Because the tube is so brittle, I covered the area I was going to drill with masking tape and started with a small bit. I worked my way up drill bit sizes until I had a hole just large enough for the plug.

I started by drilling down from the top of the ear, straight through to the other side. I chose a bit that was the same width of the starter holes for the Anovos-supplied parts.

For the hole with the switch, drilled again down from the top with a bit the same width as the threads on the switch. Next, I chose a drill bit wide enough that the kit switch could fit easily in the hole it would drill. I then started drilling very carefully from the bottom until the hole was just deep enough that the threads protruded enough to screw the nut on the switch. At times, I was allowing the drill the turn only once between test fittings.

The switch went deep enough into the body of the ear that I had to cut a channel in between the holes so that the light could be inserted sufficiently deep into its hole. In the pic below, you can see where the Dremel cutting wheel got away from me - I'll have to fix that at some point

For the wire routing, I drilled a hole in the clear emitter tube and ran the plug down to the control board. Because the tube is so brittle, I covered the area I was going to drill with masking tape and started with a small bit. I worked my way up drill bit sizes until I had a hole just large enough for the plug.

I drilled out Roxane's just like you did yours. I'm still debating as to where to drill a hole in the barrel to hide the wiring harness. I seem to recall some packs ride them exposed along the barrel of the wand.

I thought about routing on the outside, too. I didn't see a good unobtrusive way to do it and I didn't want to cut an access into the inside of the wand to route the plug and wires. In the end, I thought that drilling the tube was the less risky/best looking option, even taking into account the brittleness of the transparent plastic.

My reflectors came from cheap torches that I bought at a British dollar store. The torches in question though were bulb rather than LED ones, which may have a more specially-molded reflector... Definitely check before purchasing, especially if your Pack lights featured clustered LEDs for the Cyclotron lights, rather than a single LED (which is what mine had).

I didn't have frosted acrylic on mine on my first Pack, but you could either purchase pre-frosted acrylic on eBay, or a frosted finish spray paint from a paint specialist.

I'm still debating as to where to drill a hole in the barrel to hide the wiring harness. I seem to recall some packs ride them exposed along the barrel of the wand.

I won't be receiving my sound/light kit till July, but I'm already researching what I'm going to do. What I'm thinking of doing is drilling a hole into the barrel and then covering the remaining exposed wiring with epoxy.

"Ok. opening at number 2, to sub 50 million, next to the 2nd weekend of an animated kids movie, is NEGATIVE. Let me just clear that up right now. There is no middle ground on this. Studios DO NOT spend 100 million in marketing money to open at number 2. No sir. No. No. No. No." - Richardless

If Joel Schumacher can apologize for Batman & Robin, Paul Feig can apologize for Answer the Call.

I'm still waiting for the Alice frames. I used one I already had for mine but unless I buy one from someone that has them instock, I'll wait for Anovos. Well actually I'll wait a little longer but leave myself some time before Denver Comic con so I can complete Roxane's.