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Here's the only pic I have at the moment with my attempt at a diagram:

The blue dots are screws that go from the outside of the helmet through to the inside. I will cover the heads of the screws with bondo eventually.

The servo I have covered with a piece of foam just to make it more comfortable for me. I made a small aluminum arm which has a small strip of sintra attached to it. This sintra is screwed into the rangefinder stalk. The sintra also has a weak spring attached to another screw just to give it a little help coming back up (the servo isn't too too strong).

I apologize if not all of this makes too much sense right now, but the helmet is still at my friend's workshop so I will take some more detailed photos soon.

This project was more of a personal job just because I wanted to have a motorized rangefinder, but not have to spend too much on a super small servo so the helmet could still fit my head. This took me a while to do, I had to go through about six other designs before coming up with this one, and even then it took a while to get it working. The angles and positions of all the screws and such are just right so it works. I will try my best to describe this in a simple way.

The servo I used I do not quite know what kind it was. It appeared to be a regular generic sized servo. I didn't want anything too big, but it was too big to put in my helmet next to my ear, hence why I moved it to the cheek area.

The LEDs I used are just 2 red blinking LEDs connected directly to a battery. I wasn't too concerned with the sequence of them, I just wanted them to blink.

I assume that the spring is to compensate the weight of the RF on the way up....am I right? Looking at it from the physics point of view, I assume that the Aluminum RF stalks are too heavy for some servos, but if you have the regular or fiberglass RF stalk, it will work great.

Now, what did you used as the switch to activate the on/off switch? Is that part of those Mini-remote controlled cars around?

Yes, the spring give it an extra pull on it's way up to make up for the weight.

The switch I used came from a toy helicopter from a dollar store. There is a switch that makes the helicopter propellers go backwards and forwards. I stripped it out and hooked it up between the servo wires and the battery.

What I'm trying to figure out is a way that you could conceal the wire, battery and most important...the on/off switch. I was thinking about doing something with the gauntlet switches to actually make them functional (if doing a wired version)