Sell in the Classifieds

Advertisers

It'd be rude not to

Post

So, I was poking about on the Caddy today, trying to find out why first gear is difficult to engage from the gear lever, but easy if I move the linkages when I find another rusty hole…. this one is beneath the steering gator on the passenger side so is structural (MoT fail then) and it's difficult to see let alone think about welding it up. Probably as a result of water ponding there while it's been stood outside.

There are a number of other holes that really need doing, the doors fixing, it needs painting and all of those other bits that need doing (like window seals) - it also lives outside and we're right on the coast so lots of salty air helping the tin worm. It really needs some work before it dissolves and the only place I can do the work is in the garden…

Last MoT though had advisories for rusty exhaust (replaced), rear brake balance (fixed by using it) and a cracked number plate (still cracked) and it starts first time pretty much regardless of how long it's been left and most of the underneath is surprisingly solid, so that's good then.

So, I'm stuck and am not feeling the love at the moment (especially with the gear situation)

Do I stick with it, get it patched and run it for another 12 months then repeat, twist this little hole into the reason for a full strip down (engine out, fix all of the holes and replace most of the other bits underneath with shiny new(ish) ones) or move it on?

Post

Obviously the main thing is your budget. If it only permits patching for now then so be it but if you can do most, if not all of the work yourself then get the engine out and the welder out. Might be worth investing in a decent gazebo to cover her over while you work!As for the gear thing, sounds like worn linkage to me. Mine was a pig to get 1st so I tweaked it and then I couldn't get reverse or 5th! I bought a complete new linkage kit, which included all the bushes, linkages and the ball on the gearstick and my gear changes is like new! I also changed the oil at the same time!If you move it on to get another MK1 you get end up with worse than what you already have.The choice is yours but once it's gone you'll probably never get it back.

Post

Stick, twist or fold....

As above reallyYou know the issues with yours so you can make a plan.If you buy something else then you’ll end up spending on that anyway.So do your sums what you’ll get and I mean realistically for yours as it stands.What you can buy for that money and then stick more money into that project.

For me keep your caddy. If it’s not a daily you got time to do what you want, when you want.However the sooner you start the less likely things will deteriorate.Keep leaving it means spending more in the long run

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"

Post

what you need is a mk1 nut who's currently building a large garage with the aim of doing restorations of other peoples cars. Not for huge amounts of money but more for the pleasure of rescuing old dubs and helping people out.

I'm easily Bored, have time these days but little money to buy and do up stuff so doing stuff for other people for 'pocket money' seems like an idea.

So I'd keep it, start stock piling parts (like doors for instance) and then have a chat with me

Ian

Cornish Host.1980 VW DerbyClive the CabbyUjum the InvisibleMynx the Tintop

Post

Post

what you could do if money is tight, its too cold and mot is looming. clean off all the crusty rust and make up a metal patch, then stick it on top of the hole for short term. I did a non-structural area like this using por-patch (basically po15, but thicker in a tube) to stick the patch and paint over, at least 10 years ago now. its still there, and still solid.

make a judgement call on the location you're looking at though, is it really, really structural or just within what the mot test calls 'structural' i.e. a hole in the footwell on a mk2 within 30cm of a subframe bolt isnt going to be any kind of real problem as it doesnt actually support anything, but will still fail the mot. but glueing in a steering rack mount with por15 would obviously be a very bad idea

while youre under there try to clean up any grotty and bare metal spots you can find to por15 over as well, it wont be pretty but it will protect the metal from further rust while you sort somewhere and/or someone to fix it properly

Post

I've changed the title as it's now being kept and as the MoT runs out in a couple of days I'm looking to start the strip down / engine out (when it's dry) and while the engine is out, well… it'd be rude not to change a few bits at the same time So far I'm thinking (in no particular order)

Better breathing (GTI cam and exhaust manifold?)

Improve the brakes (Mk2 master cylinder / servo or similar? New brake lines?? Different calipers may be a problem as they might not fit in the wheels, the old ones do the job, they just need more 'feel' and I'm not changing the wheels)

New clutch

New bushes.

Strip the wiring out that used to go to the pieburg

The budget isn't great, so it's going to have to be 'tried and tested' rather than new and sparkly but is there anything else I am missing (apart from mechanical ability, welding skills, a clue…) ? Thoughts / recommendations / parts gratefully accepted And no, dropping a DX, 20V or VR6 in is not an option.

Post

We've all been there ( not feeling the love ) . But think about why you bought it in the first place ! If it's not for you move it on , if it is and time / money is tight . Try and find a little time to rub down and treat the rust to prevent it from getting worse , store perishable items indoors . It's great to have the knowledge/support on this forum . All best 👍