Tom at Impact just let me know, via email, that he's experimenting with offering bases in (spray-painted) brown (so we won't need to paint them ourselves), and hopes to offer them by late September or early October.

You know, I see everywhere where people talk about cutting holes in the stickers so you can glue the feet directly to the base. I have to say: I never bother with this. I just glue the figure to the sticker. Every now and again--but not that often--they come off. So I just glue them again. To me, this is much easier than fooling with trying to cut the stickers. But everyone has to figure out what's best for them ... I just wanted to throw this out there in case there are others who think that messing around with cutting the stickers is too annoying.

Good to know Xotli. I was wondering about that.... whether glueing them again if necessary wouldn't be easier overall. Hmm....

I spent some time today glueing D&D minis, sliced from their bases, to Yodajunkie's bases. I have to say, I'm really pleased with how they turned out. They sure feel sturdy enough. But that's sitting quietly on my table. The true test won't even come when they hit the battlefield, but rather, when they hit the inside of the ziploc baggies in which my minis are stored and find themselves crushed under the weight of hundreds of other figures inside my plastic storage bins. THAT'S some stress. I'll report back.

I use the black bases from Impact and the base stickers that Cavalier sells to rebase all my C3G Heroes. I cut all the stickers and it is very tedious work, but I think it leads to a much sturdier rebase job. I've only ever had 2 figures come off their base. One was because the figure had too big of a foot and one was because the figure was standing on one toe.

After I e-mailed Tom at Impact, he replied and also posted this in the original base discussion thread.
Concerning the peanut style bases:

Quote:

Originally Posted by impactminiatures

A plastic mould to make them would be $3000 for each size (small and large). I'm not sure I could get my $6k back for this investment.

mac122, you may want to let Tom at Impact know that Heroscape doesn't really require two sizes of peanut base, strictly speaking. The larger peanut base is fine as a one-size-fits-all solution.

Yes, but there's a built-in placement restriction with the fat peanut bases (mainly for dragons, they're half of the total): on hexes mostly surrounded by battlements, they won't fit, IIRC.

From the e-mail response he sent me, he is concerned about making back the investment on even 1 mold. Assuming a price of $1.50 each (just my wild guess), that's 2,000 bases just to get back the money for the mold, not including materials used and other costs of production and doing business. $3k (or $6k for both sizes) is a big chunk of change for a small businessman to put out without any guarantee of success.

From the e-mail response he sent me, he is concerned about making back the investment on even 1 mold. Assuming a price of $1.50 each (just my wild guess), that's 2,000 bases just to get back the money for the mold, not including materials used and other costs of production and doing business. $3k (or $6k for both sizes) is a big chunk of change for a small businessman to put out without any guarantee of success.

That is correct.

I still have not made back the money we spent to have the 30mm base mould made as that was a concept for a base I thought was needed for my own game (just glad it also worked for Heroscape later). And that base is a popular seller.

I want to help ... just need to think through options. I'm talking with my pewter caster to see if he has any ideas.

Just thought this would be a good place to post about de-basing (not debasing) figures as well.

I know I had trouble getting my Omegacron off it's original Clix base until I read online about freezing the figures. It makes a huge difference if you throw you figure in the freezer for 2-3 minutes, as it weakens the adhesive. Following freezing, it is fairly easy to slide an X-Acto knife between the base of the figure and the bottom of the figure itself. Then you just have to work the knife by wriggling it back and forth a few times, and the figure will pop right off. I was somewhat shocked my first time when Omegacron shot across the room.

Just thought this would be a good place to post about de-basing (not debasing) figures as well.

I know I had trouble getting my Omegacron off it's original Clix base until I read online about freezing the figures. It makes a huge difference if you throw you figure in the freezer for 2-3 minutes, as it weakens the adhesive. Following freezing, it is fairly easy to slide an X-Acto knife between the base of the figure and the bottom of the figure itself. Then you just have to work the knife by wriggling it back and forth a few times, and the figure will pop right off. I was somewhat shocked my first time when Omegacron shot across the room.