Wine Wisdom: In wine, there is Hope

The Latin phrase "In Vino Vertitas" implies there’s truth in wine, which there is, at various levels. However, there’s also promise and hope in every bottle. A great bottle of wine brings us the the hope of a nice evening, a wonderful dinner, a savory moment, or an enjoyable conversation with friends. I thought...

The Latin phrase "In Vino Vertitas" implies there’s truth in wine, which there is, at various levels. However, there’s also promise and hope in every bottle. A great bottle of wine brings us the the hope of a nice evening, a wonderful dinner, a savory moment, or an enjoyable conversation with friends.

I thought of those things after returning from a trip to Paso Robles, Calif., where I met with Austin Hope of Hope Family Wines and visited his family’s vineyards and wineries.

I first visited Paso Robles when I was 16 and spent the summer in San Luis Obispo. Returning decades later was both nostalgic and eye-opening. I’ve always felt the Central Coast as the best place to visit in California, though most folks go north or south instead.

Want to visit Napa this summer or fall and fight the crowds, crowded roads and mobbed tasting rooms? Go ahead. But, if you want to have as much fun and visit some terrific wineries without most of the stress, hassle and expense, head for Paso instead.

Paso Robles is one the most exciting thing happening in California wine today. There are more than 250 wineries in Paso Robles, and they produce some delightful and heavenly vino. Austin Hope’s wines epitomize that.

As to Austin Hope himself, he’s like a stellar, new world wine bursting with promise. He’s smart and fun and a great role model for any entrepreneur or business executive. Philosophically, he strives to put fun in wine and take the snobbery out of it.

And, as a businessman, his approach is highly admirable.

My own philosophy of business was heavily influenced by Peter Drucker, who preached a business has more stakeholders than just the stockholders and must be responsible to the needs and welfare of customers, employees and the community, as well. Austin gets that and runs his business accordingly.

When Austin Hope’s staff talks about why they don’t fence in their vineyards to keep the deer out, they quote him. "The deer were here long before us and they will be here long after us." They use essentially the same quote regarding the oak trees on the family properties that Austin mandates be treated with care and respect as the staff manage and work the vineyards. Maybe that attitude reflects the awe you experience when you begin working with your father out in the vineyards at 8 years old.

If that is a bit too cosmic or earthy for some, think about the fact that wine, good wine, is a product of the best of nature. An attitude of being in harmony with nature and nurturing it to create quality wines is the kind of philosophy that leads to greatness in the wine industry. I like that outlook, and I like the wines fostered by it, too.

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Hope’s Treana line was the family’s first foray into winemaking and their signature wine. The wines are Rhone style and exceptionally good, The 2011 Treana White ($23) is a marvelous 50/50 blend of Marsanne and Viognier. Its rich melon, peach and honey flavors will make everyone a fan. 2010 Treana Red ($45) is a deep wellstructured wine featuring tasty fruit, a lovely hint of anise, and a lengthy finish. They were deliciously good, particularly the first vintage 1996 we tasted.

Hope Family’s five distinct brands also include the popular Liberty School wines. Liberty School Cabernet ($16) and Chardonnay ($14) are good values often found on restaurant lists. The just introduced 2012 Liberty School Pinot Noir is the best of the brand. It’s a richly fruity, medium-bodied pinot with delicious cherry and strawberry notes and smooth mouthfeel ($20). The new 2011 Merlot offers nice plum, cherry and blackberry flavors. I enjoyed both immensely.