Description

This is a short route located about fifty yards left of Slabutt. It has a quick overhang off the ground, then there is three bolts worth of slab. Pull the lip to very moderate ice. The crux is the slap.

...[This route was done in] a high water season in which the route to the right of Tourette's came in (Imapness). It since then has been marginal drips and not really worthy of any attempts. Even Tourette's seems thinner than back in those years.

This year the ice is far above the last rusty bolt. Pulling onto the ice requires a couple of super powerful moves. Blowing the moves above the bolt would be an ankle breaker. Traversing in from Dragon's Breath and placing a 22cm screw with a long sling to clip at the crux would be a reasonable option to improve the safety. Nice new anchors. The bolts on the slab are pretty rusty.

The bolts have been replaced by the local contingent. The original bolts were 3/8 by @ 1" long, self-drilling style with a sleeve. They snapped off pretty easily with a few blows of a hammer. They have been replaced with 3/8 by 4" long Rawl 5-piece expansion bolts. Climb safe and enjoy this classic line!

One comment, it is pretty cruxy getting to the second bolt, and if falling there, a grounder is possible and for sure the belayer will get totally skewered by the leader's poons. I say be very, very careful and attentive there.