The Italian sub, when made correctly, is one of the most blissful eating experiences a person can have. From the crusty, chewy roll to the globs of fresh homemade mozzarella (or "mutz," in Italian deli parlance) to the savory meats inside, it's a delicate balance of flavors and textures. If anything is off -- the mutz is sliced too thin, or the roll is too soft, or the meat isn't fresh -- the sub is pretty much ruined.

I used to think that these marvels of deli engineering could not be found outside the very Italian confines of Hudson County. But Sergio Sciancalepore, owner of Sergio & Co. in Denville, has given me hope. He and his wife, Allyson, have been providing greater Morris County with quality Italian meals and catering since 1999, and his store's popularity can be seen in the long lines that form at almost any time of the day, any day of the week.

But the wait is worth it. Order a ham, salami and mutz sub ($6.50), as I did on a recent visit, and you'll receive a two-inch-thick brick of meat, cheese and toppings, enough for two meals. The meat can be ensconced in your choice of three rolls: the crusty-chewy sub roll I love, a more traditional soft sub roll (bleah), or a yellow semolina roll that adds a bit more of a pasta-like flavor to the sandwich.

Of course, many other Italian delicacies are available, including octopus. If you're not in the mood for a sub, you can always try the pizza rustica. Sold by the pound ($7.99 per), it's a dense, spicy and salty combination of ricotta, eggs, prosciutto, soppressata, salami, capicola and pancetta, enveloped by a pizza-dough crust. But, really, is there any reason why you wouldn't buy a sub at Sergio & Co.? I can't think of one.