"The 33"-Road Bike RacingWe set this forum up for our members to discuss their experiences in either pro or amateur racing, whether they are the big races, or even the small backyard races. Don't forget to update all the members with your own race results.

I snapped a dura ace chain at the end of a ride a while ago. I think it had to do with it not being installed properly. One LBS put it on, I took a trip somewhere, and another LBS put a SRAM chain on. The second place said that if you don't do the right thing with a certain gizmo (link pin) then you can end up with problems.

I snapped one the other week. I seriously thought I was the strongest eprson alive when I did this.
I was on the flats, on a recovery ride after a race, and I stepped a little hard on the pedals, and the Super-Duper pin that it comes with snapped right in the middle. Granted, the chain had 3,500-4,000 miles on it, but it shouldn't have broken like that. One half of the pin was still inside of the chain.
I'd like to tihnk I'm that powerful.

It was a Dura-ace chain that failed me during a full on sprint last June and put me hard on the ground. My fault im sure. I used a park tool to install and remove links instead of the recommended shimano tool. Seemed ok for a while...

Still, i'm sticking with Park tool compatible SRAM chains with masterlinks from now on. I've been using SRAM and Sachs for eons with out fail. I shoulda never bought the D/A chain.

7801 chains have a slightly different diameter pin to them and require the proper chain tool. Using an older 9 speed specific chain tool means you'll create a weak spot. Also, if you don't get the 3 clicks when pushing the chain pin through during the install, you're in for something bad (that's how you rip your rear derailler off the bike), and also make sure to install the chain pin sans pressure. Its a pain in the ass and they don't really explain it well, but it does work quite well if done properly. For those that can't/won't 7801s still shift best on DA drive trains, just get a KMC super link.

It was a Dura-ace chain that failed me during a full on sprint last June and put me hard on the ground. My fault im sure. I used a park tool to install and remove links instead of the recommended shimano tool. Seemed ok for a while...

Still, i'm sticking with Park tool compatible SRAM chains with masterlinks from now on. I've been using SRAM and Sachs for eons with out fail. I shoulda never bought the D/A chain.

Park's works well for the HG chain. It's also better than using the $120 HG tool, though the tool is awesome.

I snapped one the other week. I seriously thought I was the strongest eprson alive when I did this.
I was on the flats, on a recovery ride after a race, and I stepped a little hard on the pedals, and the Super-Duper pin that it comes with snapped right in the middle. Granted, the chain had 3,500-4,000 miles on it, but it shouldn't have broken like that. One half of the pin was still inside of the chain.
I'd like to tihnk I'm that powerful.

Well done. You need to yell out a big "YARRRRR!!!!!" right before you break your chain. Then when people see it sliding down the street and look up at you, you can just point to your guads. It's quite intimidating.

If you're strong enough, you can just put on your rear brake and then lay into your pedals and snap any chain though your frame will flex to the drive side before that happens. If you have a cheap frame (under $5000), consider it toast.