DIY Pocket Hole Jig

Kreg brand Pocket Hole Jigs have become synonymous with DIYers over years. In truth, these things have been around forever, and even before Kreg came on the scene for consumers, pocket hole joinery was alive and well. So why even use pocket hole joinery? Well, it’s fast. I mean speedy gonzalez meets the road runner fast, and it’s so easy even…even I can do it! So how ’bout I teach you how to make this handy jig, so you can save a few bucks?

Tools and Supplies

Yes, I made a nice CAD drawing just for you. Still can’t figure it out? Look at the drawing again, then send me a message if you’re still having trouble… Once you’re done making the jig, I find it handy to draw a center line around the jig. You can skip drawing the line on the bottom, of course. I hope you figured that one out on your own… 🙂

I made my pocket hole jig out of IPE. Why? Because I had it on hand, it’s hard as nails, and did I mention I already had it? Since IPE is so hard, I did not bother with using a steel sleeve inside the pilot hole. If you wanted to use a steel sleeve, go for it! Just make the necessary adjustments and you’re good to go.

Works like a champ! You can use a cam clamp (tutorial on making these!), quick grip, C-clamp as shown here, or get a friend to hold the jig real tight while… No, actually don’t do that. That would be dumb. Funny to watch, but totally not safe.

Alright, that about does it.

How To Use

Oh, you might want to know how to use this thing! First, you’ll need a 3/8″ pocket hole drill. If I recall correctly, I didn’t buy the Kreg brand drill. I think Home Depot carries a less expensive option. If not, you can always check eBay.

Anyways, back to the madness. This drill comes with a lock collar, which is used to set the depth of hole you make. When you make a pocket hole, you want the smaller diameter to just poke through the end of the piece you’re drilling. If you get to the bigger diameter of the drill, you’ll either be looking for larger screws or tossing the piece out because you just messed up. So before you start foolin’ around with the lumber you’re making your project out of, test out your setup and make sure the lock collar is at the right spot so you’re drilling to the correct depth. Do this on scrap wood of the same thickness as your project material. This hole needs to be centered in the thickness of the board. So, lets say your board is 1″ thick, the lil’ skinny section of the drill needs to poke out at about 1/2″ from either side.

So in review:

lil’ section of drill should poke out centered on the thickness of the piece you’re drilling

lock collar sets the depth of pocket, if you go too deep you have to start over

test on scrap wood

Now that you’re all set up and ready to go, use the center line on your jig to place it where you want your pocket holes and let er rip!

Once all of your pocket holes are drilled, you’re ready for assembly. I use the kreg pocket hole screws because they’re cheap enough and easy to come by.

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Mike I have to fix a draw front came off size of wall of drawis 5m thickness of front of draw is10m can I use joiner jig and what size screw should I use this is my first go with it and I don’t want to drill threw front of draw thanks mike .

Sorry for the delay. Are the sides and front of the drawer solid wood, plywood, MDF, or some other material? If it’s solid wood, it’d say you can give it a go with a relatively small screw. It’s hard to advise without seeing a photo of how the drawer is assembled. If you’d like to email a photo to mike@woodshopmike.com I’d be happy to take a look and advise you further.

The pocket hole jig I have plans for is really intended for 3/4″ material. It can be used for 1/2″ material but there is very little room for error.

I happen to love Ipe’ too. I’ve made some beautiful torpedo levels, with brass fittings and all (Shopnotes had plans, but I like the one from Wood magazine better – they’re GORGEOUS), from Ipe’. It’s a perfect material – very hard, beautiful finish, contrasts very nicely with the brass and glass. Best of all – it was leftovers from our deck. 🙂 Only problem is it chews up blades/tools: not only is it really hard, but apparently the tree pulls silica out of the soil, so it is *actually* full of abrasive!

I’m as thick as the IPE I’m afraid . Hi , im obsessed with trying learning wood work skills to eventually pass to my sons. I have recently learned about pocket holes and would love to make this jig. Sadly I am from metric land have no idea what the dimensions mean…. Can anyone help me out or point in the right direction.

Pocket hole joinery is perfectly acceptable! Anyone who says otherwise has an ego they’re trying to inflate! 🙂 I think that every joinery method has it’s place. Most wouldn’t spend the time cutting fancy joinery for shop drawers or benches, but you’d sure expect to see it on a custom piece of furniture.

Hi,
Is there a way to use pocket hole jig to 10mm? and less wood thickness? I bought the kreg jig but they said its not meant to use less then 15mm.
I didn’t really understood the pdf instruction that you gave, but if its possible I would like to try.
Thanks 🙂

I’m not sure if I completely understand what you’re asking. Are you wanting to know if you can use the jig on 10mm boards? The trouble with using material thinner than 12mm (1/2″) is that there’s not enough material for the pocket to be formed in without the screw head sticking out. Does that make sense? Let me know if there’s any confusion still.

Thanks Mike.
Yes 10mm is the thickness of the board. But the screws head is is only about 5mm. But it is true from what iv tried is that the head is not fully enter to the pocket hole, I guess that is what you meant. Mmmm I guess I have to give up on the jig for less then 1/2″.
Thanks very much for your help.

About the pdf im sure if I will try to concentrate on it I will understand.

Can this be used for 2×4 stock?
I need to build an aquarium stand for a 55 gallon tank and I thought pocket hole joints would be perfect. Is there some compensation I need to know about to use this on 2x4s? Or, can I modify the plans to better suit 2x4s?
Thanks!Jay@Handy-Guy.com

Yes, this jig can be used for 2×4’s as is, but you can also just change the dimensions to fit your criteria.

If you decide to use the jig as shown in the drawings, you’ll just need to adjust the jig placement so the hole will be drilled where you want it. If you want the hole to exit lower in the 2×4 just back the jig up a bit until the desired hole placement is achieved.

If you don’t feel like compensating the jigs’ placement you can always make it with different dimensions than the one I show in the drawings.

Mike, Like your posting. Pockets are quick and straight forward. I got a kreg. Building the jig is easy enough. Have you tried different angles, for bigger pieces, maybe a larger angle would work better ? Thanks.
Bob U.