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CCE9300PL Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

All installation instructions for CCE9300PL parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the cooktop repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4aAttach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switchAttach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch. There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.Good Luck

Undid two screws on underside of cook top, lifted and exposed underside. Transferred wires from the faulty burner to the new burner, one at a time, paying close attention to their respective position on the wiring posts/terminals. Undid two screws holding old burner and then mounted the new burner to underside of cook top. Was really simple to do. :)

replaced heating element on flat surface stove top

I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.

The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.

The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.

To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.

The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label

old switch had shorted and burned out

This was a range top. i removed the 12 hex machine scews holding on the top, then removed the two star screws holding the old switch. there were fore wire that had fitted on tabs. Hooked them to the new swtch and reassembeld. Easy repair since i could lift the unit out without disconnecting main cables. Replacement range would have been oveer $1000. Psrt was under $40 and delivered in a matter of days.

Jenn Air Dual element switch broke

This is not at hard as it seems; I followed the first guy's story and ignored the colors because mine were different. I did have to split the combined red wires, intimidating at first but once I split them it was down hill. I did have to use the jumper wire.

Follow Appliance Repaired: Jenn-Air Range/Stove/Oven/Hood

Model: cve3401b

Age Of Appliance: 5 - 10 years

Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the wire from old switch terminal 5)to S2Attach the wire from old switch terminal 4 to 4aAttach the wire from old switch terminal 3 to terminal 4 on the new switchDetach the 'compound' red wires from each other. (The ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.

I attached common female connectors. Attach the newly split single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.

One note:

Before you remove the four screws that hold the four swtiches down make sure that you use a sharpie and mark the switchbox location. You will notice that it is difficult to get them to line up again with the holes in the cooktop.

1. TURNED OFF POWER TO TROUBLE SHOOT THE COUNTER TOP RANGE ELEMENTS.2.RAISED THE COUNTER TOP UP TO WORK ON IT AND SLID TWO EVENLY PLACED WOODEN SLATS UNDER THE BOTTOM OF THE HOUSFOR STABILITY SO IT WOULD NOT FALL BACKDOWN INTO THE COUNTER TOP CUT-OUT.3. WITH A 1/4" NUT DRIVER REMOVED THE 10 HEX-HEAD SCREW THAT WERE HOLDING THE BLACK GLASS TOP IN PLACE, PULLED OFF THE 4 .CONTROL KNOBS AND CAREFULLY REMOVED THE GLASS COVER AND CAREFULLY SEET IT ASIDE IN A SAFE PLACE.5. A VISUAL INSPECTION OF THE NON WORKING ELEMENT SHOWED THAT IT HAD A BURN OUT SPOT CAUSING IT NOT TO HEAT.6. GOT THE MODEL NUMBER OF THE APPLIANCE AND CHECKED THE INTERNET FOR PARTS SUPPLIERS, CHOSE PARTS ELECT BECAUSE THEY HAD THE PART IN STOCK AND COULD OVERNIGHT IT FOR REINSTALLATION THE NEXT DAY, PART DID ARRIVE THE NEXT MORNING. A VISUAL INSPECTION SHOW THAT IT WAS THE CORRECT PART AND IT WOULD BE A LIKE FOR LIKE SWAP OUT.7. PRIOR TO REPLACING THE ELEMENT CHECK TO SEE THAT THE ELECTRICAL POWER WAS STILL OFF AT THE CIRCUIT BREAKER, MADE A QUICK SKETCH OF THE WIRING AND IDENTIFIED THE WIRES SO THAT THEY WOULD BE RETERMINATED AT THE SAME POINTS.8.USING THE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS PULLED OFF THE 4 STAKE ON TERMINATIONS.9. LIFTED OUT THE 6" FROM THE BODY OF THE UNIT , REMOVED THE 4 PHILLIPS SCREWS HOLDING PARTS WHAT WERE TO BE TRANSFERED ONTO THE NEW ELEMENT.10. TRANSFERED PARTS ONTO THE NEW ELEMENT, REINSTALLED THE ELEMENT INTO THE BODY OF THE UNIT, REINSTALLED THE 4-STAKE-ON WIRES TO THERE APPROPRIATE TERMINALS AND VERIFIED WITH PREVIOUS WIRING SKETCH.11. REINSTALLED THE GLASS TOP, 10 SCREW HOLDING IT IN PLACE AND THE 4-CONTROL KNOBS.12 .TURNED MAIN POWER TO THE UNIT BACK ON AND TURNED ON THE REPLACED ELEMENT, IT WORK CORRECTLY, ALSO CHECKED THE OTHER 3 ELEMENTS TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY WERE WORKING CORRECTLY. 13. WHEN THE UNIT HAD COOLED, REMOVED THE WOODEN SLATS AND LOWERED THE COUNTER TOP BACK INTO ITS CUT-OUT MAKING SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE GLASSTOP.JOB COMPLETE.

the left front burner burned out & none of the lights to show if a burner was hot would come on.

FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the counter. The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to removethe plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.

I turned off the circuit breaker to the cooktop. I had to remove aluminum tape from the downdraft fan so it would disconnect from the exhaust duct. I noticed that I had a long enough electrical connection so I could just lift the cooktop up out of the opening and support it at the corners with shims. I removed all the knobs from the cooktop and then removed the 1/4" sheet metal screws that held the ceramic top to the base. My cooktop had a downdraft fan in the center which has 2 phillips head screws that at first I didn't see, but once I removed those, the ceramic top came off and exposed all the inner workings. I removed the 2 phillips screws holding the switch and then swapped each wire from the old switch to the new one. After that, it was just a matter of reversing the process to get everything back in working order.

Removed 8 screws of retainer holding glass top to box.. Pulled 5 knobs and glass top and set aside. Popped 2 retaining clips holding burner , removed them and transferred to new burner (#12 and #48 position). Used wide blade screwdriver to facilitate removing terminals from old burner and attached terminals to new burner.Popped retaining clips into crossbeam, put glass top on and 8 screws back into retainer. Works great.

First, disconnected downdraft fan from ductwork below stovetop. Pushing from below, was able to lift entire stovetop assembly up to expose nuts holding glass top to the underlying burner assembly. used 2 lengths of 2x4's under the whole stovetop assembly to hold it up while I worked. Unscrewed all hex nuts and 2 screws at top of downdraft opening and easily lifted glass top off, exposing elements below. Removed a few screws holding defective switch in place. I then moved one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch. I actually followed directions of another partsect customer. His step by step directions for the wiring was invaluable. Worked perfectly. My wife and daughter are very impressed.

OK this is a glasstop Jenn Air cce3531B, 5 burners, 11 years old. I am computer data entry employee and 56 years old. I have never done repairs myself in the past but decided to try. I ordered a new burner and indicator light as I wasnt sure which to replace. I found the main breaker and shut it off. I lifted the stovetop out of the counter opening by pushing it through the bottom and placed it on the counter with a towel under it, I had plenty of room to work so that was very easy. I used a nutdriver set to remove 12 screws and lifted off the top very carefully and placed it in the other room , since i had to repair unit thought I would also clean and replace the foam tape around the perimeter of the glasstop. Ok now I unscrewed 4 more screws with the nutdriver and replaced the indicator light, that took about 6 minutes so far. Then I turned the breaker back on and tested and it did not work. Turned breaker back off ,now I replaced the burner by lifting it out of the opening very easily, unscrewed with philips screwdriver 2 screws and the new burner was exactly the same as the existing one so I just slid the old connections off one at a time and replaced them as I went along onto the new burner, screwed it back into place and turned the breaker on and tested it and it worked. I now turned the breaker back off and took off the old foam tape from the glasstop and replaced with new, fit it back onto the base and screwed the 12 screws back in and placed it back into the counter opening and turned breaker back on and now all is fixed and I saved $100 dollars in labor fees. This took 35 minutes and was easy for me. THANKS YOU PARTSELECT