In order to reach the actual bishop's terrace, and the good little aid crack that goes through the roof of bishop's terrace, go directly right from the anchor atop the bishop's terrace route. Then head up an easy crack to gain the right side of the terrace. From here the terrace slopes down to the right.

What i used to do, is do this second pitch as I described, and then rap off the anchors that are on the far right side of bishop's terrace. Here you only need one rope to rap to the ground. Something to think about if you only have one rope, or if there is a party anxious to start up the route and you do not want to make them wait further by rapping the route.

I've seen not one but two people get their knees stuck on this climb and have to be rescued. Apparently they let blood pool in the upper leg which subsequently perma-cammed the knee in. It looked really painful.

I also recommend doing it in one pitch. The hoard of people at the base will appreciate that ;-) While it's a fun route, I didn't find it mind blowingly good. I would recommend taking some big gear. I only had one 3" and wish I had a 4" as well.

"Use gear sparingly on the lower, easier sections to assure you have pro for the upper portion of the climb."

What Scott said. When done as one pitch (which is fantastic) and leading near your limit, be sure to keep some gear for the end or you will be facing some exciting climbing above protection...ask me how I know :)

It is not necessary to use the alternate start to do the 5.7 OW variation, despite how it appears in SuperTopo. The alternate start sucks in several ways compared to the standard start. I don't see any reason to use it unless you're climbing with a 50m rope.

if you only have one rope, you can rap to skiers right, where there is an anchor consisting of a bolt and a fixed nut, slung with a bunch of weathered webbing and rings, from here a 60 barely reaches to the first ledge, and a 70 reaches the ground.

Just did this climb this past Monday in one pitch. Had doubles in .5-3, one #4 and set of nuts. Climb takes nuts really well, use long slings at the bottom and save one #2 after the double crack up top, which is a lot easier than it looks! Excellent climb!

Amazing Introduction to The Valley Crack climbing!! By far one of the best 8's I have ever done! A Total Must do!! You Can just reach the rappel with a 70 meter if you stop about 20 feet off the deck on a huge ledge, but you will surely need two if your using 60's.

Done in one pitch, you will need: a regular assortment of nuts (nothing below a #8 stopper...if I recall) then double #1, 3, 4 Camalot and triple #2.

Drop those nuts in all over the lower portion of the route, saving the cams for the meat higher up.

If you want to do another "5.8" crack, head over to the Left Side of Little John for some more of that old school, full value, no BS Yosemite crack climbing...and make sure to haul along those #4 & #5 Camalots...just sayin'...

Climbed this in 2013. It's a great route but we got our double fisherman's stuck in the crack on the rap down. I would suggest using an overhand knot for a double rope rappel. Also, a number 4 is helpful on this route.

Potentially my new favorite lead in the valley. Forgot to bring a #4 with me and ran out the entire off width section. (Almost pee'd myself.) Did it as one pitch at dusk and got a fantastic sunset from the top. If you want to feel safe, bring a #4, maybe even a #5. If you want to scare yourself, bring neither.

Oh my goodness, this is an amazing route. As I followed the last 40 feet, I couldn't help but chuckle, both at the beauty and improbability of such a steep crack going at 5.8, and at the thought of all the people who have probably come to the Valley and made this their first lead, just to get an idea of what 5.8 in Yosemite means. Ha! They'd have been better served trying their hand at Harry Daley. The second half of this route is burly sustained 5.8. What a beautiful climb!