Boulder Canyon Bouldering Guide

This blog contains updated info on bouldering in Boulder Canyon. It is compiled by Peter Beal who can also be read at http://mountainsandwater.com/

The Boulder Canyon Bouldering Blog

Visit this site for continuously updated information on the bouldering available in Boulder Canyon. Use the links to the right to locate problems in given areas. I will be reworking the format of the site and am always open to updates and news. Contact me via this blog, 8a.nu, or Facebook if you have problems you want included. Happy Bouldering!

Friday, May 21, 2010

The problems on this formation focus on a leaning block of granite on the right side of this relatively obscure formation. Witches' Tower is just downstream from Sherwood Forest, about 7 miles upcanyon from Boulder. It is on the south side of the canyon so a stream crossing is required. The main attraction here is Witch Hunt, V10/11.

Search here for problem names, areas, or by grade

Areas Covered in this Guide

Some thoughts on Bouldering and this Guide

Bouldering has exploded in popularity in the last ten years and this shows no signs of lessening anytime soon. Guides and other references have a part to play in this popularity and this guide is no exception.

However, I would like to state up front that Boulder Canyon, like any other outside climbing area, should be treated with a great deal of respect and appreciation and not like a giant playpen.

Leave No Trace

Trash, including cigarette butts, wrappers, tape, and anything else that nature didn't make. Never stash your pads anywhere but especially not here. If I find any, they will disappear. I encourage everyone to remove clearly stashed gear of any type . No boulder in the Canyon is more than 10 minutes walk from the road.

Noise, including obscenities, shouting beta, spray, etc. is weak. Keep it quiet, even near the road and river

Huge posses--break it up and move elsewhere. This isn't the rock gym.

Tick marks--erase them all when you are done. And clean up any spilled chalk.

Chipped holds are unacceptable everywhere. Glue is bogus--if a hold breaks, it breaks.

Messing with holds by means of blowtorches, rubbing alcohol, wire brushes, pof or other nonsense is weak. If you can't hang on try a different problem. Friends assert that rubbing alcohol is not a problem but I am more of a purist on this point

Don't destroy vegetation or alter the base. Think before taking out moss or lichen. Creative and thoughtful use of multiple pads can compensate for most situations.

No %&##ing fires in the canyon. Ever. If it's too cold there are at least 3 indoor gyms 15 minutes away that are plenty warm.

Respect private property and other visitors'experiences. Bouldering is no more important than someone's fly-fishing session. Be aware of property lines and ownership issues and when in doubt, stay out.

Media depicting problems/areas in the canyon should emphasize a leave-no-trace ethic.

Climb at your own risk. As much as possible, don't harm the environment to make things safer, more fun, etc. Come back when you are stronger