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When I was first introduced to Coni’Seafood years ago by my friend Bill, it was the supple camarones aguachiles that left me swooning. Flash-marinated in lime juice, salt, and jalapeno, the barely-cooked shrimp just couldn’t be beat.

On recent visits to Connie Cossio’s Inglewood mariscos spot, I’ve been falling hard for the camarones borrachos, drunken shrimp that seduce with a garlicky punch followed by a slow, lingering burn.

With his deft understanding of flavors and ingredients, Sinaloan chef Sergio Penuelas transforms shrimp, fresh garlic, cilantro, crushed red pepper, and a generous pour of tequila into something otherworldly. The head-on camarones soak up the seasonings like a dream, and the fiery red sauce beneath it all is quite possibly the best part. I would be very content just eating rice sopped in the sauce—it’s really that good.