The truck is down again with carburetor problems!!! Has anybody out there used the Weber carburetor kit on their Isuzu pickup ('92 pup, 2.3 l)? If you have was it successful in eliminating carburetor problems? If it wasn't, what happened? If you still have the instructions I would appreciate a copy of them to look over. It is quite expensive and I want to be sure that it will help me fix my carburetor problems.

I mentioned elsewhere, but I got one of those re-badged 34/34 Solex carbs (Weber stickers on it, but not a real Weber) and have had nothing but problems with it. I just ordered a new, REAL Weber kit. It should be arriving any day now - I'll let you know how it goes

But really, from what I've found in my research and as long as you don't have to worry about emissions, you'll probably be very happy with a 32/36 or a 38/38. Just stay away from the 34/34's. See HERE for a good write-up on the subject; see trash80's 2nd post.

I run a Weber 32/36 on my 2.3 with all emissions removed. I used a carter fuel pump with holly regulater and the truck runs great. Just make sure you keep your fuel pressure around 3-4 lbs and you should have no problems.

I think Weber makes a great product and on the 2.3 it seems once all the polution crap is disgarded it really brings that little motor to life. I got rid of everythimg on mine,,EGR..air pump...evap cannister. I made some block off plates added a carter fuel pump and holly regulator to keep the fuel pressure down and so far have never had a problem with tuning it

I'm very interested in this, I would really like to wake up my pup a little for delivery driving. Around here everyone has a 2000 or newer car that they drive like they stole, even the 40+ year old women in their lincoln town cars are revving to like 4000rpm around town. In the regular flow of traffic that means everyone is desperately trying to get around my little pickup while I'm getting up to speed.

I live in Kansas so there is no emissions testing of any kind here, and I would like to remove all the old components that are probably only going to end up clogging up and keeping me from getting to work on time.(ex. EGR valve) Also I don't know much about carbureters but I know the one in the truck is the original and has never been rebuilt, so for peace of mind I would like to stick a weber in there.

If anyone could make a comprehensive list of what to remove, what to plug/block off, and what to re-route this would help me tremendously. I'm not really sure where to start, and I don't want to remove a piece that happens to be vital to the operation of some other piece I haven't removed yet.

Take a look and if anything in my albums can be of any help to you have at it. Here is a short clip of my 2.3 running a 32/36 with no emissions at all. No EGR..no smog pump ...no evap can no Cat, The only thing left from the miles of vac lines is brake boost, Dizzy advance and PCV. I like weber carbs, i think with a carb..Header and Cam it will give a stock 2.3/2.6 alot of bang for your buck. Some may disagree, and I'm not saying that's the only way to go, but, it worked really well for me. And weber has been making carbs a long time for some very high performance cars so they must be doing something right. There is a how to on here from (Shooter) who swapped his FI for a Weber setup. (Used a couple pic's of my block off plate's too) I think the best thing to do is talk to some people who acually use them, that way you can make a informed decision about what's going to be best for you. But youll be amazed once you pull off the stock carb, just how much usless junk is tied to the emmissions systemhttp://s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd6/ ... ondrun.mp4http://www.photobucket.com/bigpetey3

That is a sweet album, I hope someday I get my 1995 Trans Am fixed up nice with pictures like that. I have a lot I want to do but I think I'm going to teach myself on the Pickup first so I don't screw things up on a larger scale. There's a lot I would like to remove from the Trans Am though because honestly, there is so much room in the Pickup's engine bay it's a joke. I've spent like 4 hours changing a small simple part on the Trans Am because of all the other stuff you have to remove just to get to anything! Finding a vacuum leak is even more nightmarish, at least on the truck it's all in plain sight. Even just getting under the car is a complete difference, the Pickup sits high enough i can just roll right under it without putting it in the air with anything, which is just great.

I switched to a weber carb without the automatic choke, and installed a manual choke. That's the best thing I could have done for my pup! I also removed all the emissions junk, and the little 2.3 runs great now. It's also a 92, like yours. I don't have the installation instructions, as all I bought was the conversion kit. I pulled the carb from an old Toyota, someone else had used it on. I think you would be very pleased with a weber carb!Chuck

So what's the difference between a manual and an auto choke? And yeah anything I could do to free up a little power on this thing would be a godsend! I've been delivering in the Trans Am for too long and now switching to this to save money is a bit of a difference. I love this truck though, seems awesome tons of character. I want to paint it after I remove all the rust but I'm not sure what would suit it best.

The difference between an automatic choke and a manual choke is that you are the one that controls when it is choked, and how much choke it gets, by pulling out the cable in the dash. You also have to remember to push the manual choke in, when the engine is warmed up. An auto choke has a bimetal spring that automatically opens and closes the choke plate for you, depending on the temperature of the engine.I was in the u-pull-it, looking for parts all day yesterday. By the time I got home, I was too tired to check the forum, or I would have answered you then.Chuck