Wait a minute, we'll make him tidy first," and Lizaveta Petrovna laid the red wobbling thing on the bed, began untrussing and trussing up the baby, lifting it up and turning it over with one finger and powdering it with something.

The rationale behind trussing is that it makes for more even cooking, a prettier package and easier carving.

My experience, however, tended to bear out conclusions drawn by Christopher Kimball of Cook's Illustrated magazine, when he reported on the results of roasting chicken 14 ways: Trussing makes it more difficult to properly cook the inner part of the thigh, and requires that the bird be left in the oven longer, resulting in possibly overcooked white meat.

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