Hey everyone, Tony the Filter Doctor here. Welcome to our installation series. Today I’ll be installing the Doulton W9330059. This is an under sink filter system that does not come with a drinking water faucet or a plumbing hardware kit. If you need a complete kit with all of the installation hardware, tubing etc then please look to part numbers W9330962, W9330957, and W9330958. Now, Doulton has done this intentionally with this package for those of you who are replacing an existing drinking water system, and also for those of you who want the flexibility of choosing a specific drinking water faucet, perhaps to match your design elements. Now, please note that the W9330062 is the same exact system with a different filter element. Today I’m going to perform a complete installation, from scratch and not merely a replacement of an existing system. If you are replacing an existing system, then you’re probably only concerned with the mounting of the cap and bracket, so feel free to fast forward to that part. Inside the package you’ll find an acetyl polyester filter housing, a ceramic filter element, a mounting bracket, and some screws to attach the mounting bracket to the cap of the filter housing, and screws to mount the mounting bracket to the side wall of your cabinet. If you are replacing an existing system this is all you will need. If you’re not replacing an existing system, or if you purchased a Doulton system that does not come with a drinking water faucet and the plumbing hardware kit, then you’ll need to purchase these items separately. Choose any drinking water faucet to fit your design, and it will naturally come with its’ own hardware packet. You’ll also need a 3/8 by 3/8 by 3/8 angle stop valve and a 3/8 inch quick connect faucet adaptor, as well as about six feet of 3/8 inch polyethylene tubing. The first thing we need to do is turn off the water supply of the cold water line since we’re attaching this to the cold water line, by turning this valve clockwise all the way snuggly; now the water is off. Now that I have the water turned off, I need to remove this nut from this valve mechanism. Using a wrench or a 5/8 inch plier, loosen the compression nut and then hand loose and we’re done. Now we’re going to attach this diverter valve to the valve mechanism. Teflon tape is not necessary because this unit has a rubber gasket inside. To install your drinking water faucet, you need to have an open location, either a sprayer that you’re willing to give up or a cap hole like this. This piece will unscrew from underneath the sink. Here’s what it looks like from under the kitchen sink. You need to remove this piece. Simply unscrew it and remove the cap. Here’s what it looks like now that we’ve removed the cap. There are really only two pieces necessary on the top side of the sink. One is a large black rubber washer and the other is a chrome discussion plate. This is the remaining hardware that you’ll need when you go under the kitchen sink. The first piece to go on is this locating washer. Now, hopefully you can see that this has a unique shape. The end that I have up now is the end that goes up when you’re underneath the kitchen faucet. That’s because this will help to locate and center the faucet on the hole. If you put it with this flat end up it can slide all over the place and your faucet will end up off center. Underneath the kitchen sink we need to install the locating washer and the star washer and then the lock nut. It’s a very long thread and it’s going to take a while to get that nut all the way up on this thread. Because the faucet adaptor does not have a rubber washer, we need to use a small amount of Teflon tape on the end of these threads. Hand tight is sufficient. Next we need to attach the mounting bracket to the cap with the provided screws. Now that we have the plumbing out of the way and we’ve attached the bracket to the cap, we can think about where we want to position the system under the sink. Now, you could put it really anywhere you want it, but you probably want to avoid attaching it to the back of your cabinet because the backs of cabinets are typically thin and flimsy and unable to hold the screws that will bear the weight of the system. I prefer to mount mine on the side wall closer to the front so that I don’t have to climb through the cabinet to the back every time I want to change filter cartridges. Now with this particular system, ideally I want approximately ten inches of space underneath the bottom of the filter housing. Now that seems like a lot compared to many other systems and there’s a reason for that. Let me show you how this works. You see, Doulton filter systems screw into the cap, so you have to be able to fully remove this housing before you can unscrew the filter element. Now, if you don’t have that kind of space, don’t worry, you can compromise. It is still possible to change filter cartridges with less space. If I only had three or four inches, I could still unscrew the housing and then unscrew the element and I can get away with it, but ideally I want ten inches. So I need to determine the distance from the holes on my bracket to the bottom of this filter system, and that is approximately thirteen inches, so I want my holes at twenty-three inches. So I’m going to drill some tap holes and then attach the bracket to the side wall of this cabinet. Now that I’ve got the unit attached to the side of the cabinet I can think about running my water line. I’ve got some 3/8 inch polyethylene tubing here and I’m going to use a tubing cutter to cut it to the correct length. I need to run two pieces. One from the valve to the inlet side of the filter system, and then one from the outlet side up to our drinking water faucet. First I need to get an idea for the length, so I’m going to check the length necessary right now. I don’t want to have too much, but I don’t want there to be extra loops of tubing under here either. This looks like a good length. And then a tubing cutter, the ultimate in ease of use, just like that and you have to have perfectly cut tubing for these quick connect fittings to work. If you try and do that with a razor knife and you might be successful 5% of the time, but most of the time you’ll leave jagged edges or your cut will be at an angle and that will not work for these quick connect fittings. So now I need to cut one more length and then I’ll attach the tubing to the system itself. Alright, time to attach the tubing. Take the other end of your tubing and push it into the quick connect. That’s it. On the underside of the drinking water faucet, just push to connect. First the inlet side, simply take your water line, insert, push in and that’s it. Then the outlet side, there we go. And there you have it, a complete installation of the Doulton W9330059, and I’m your host Tony the Filter Doctor. Thanks for watching.