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One would hope that he doesn't plan of having any offspring in general

Oh dear, can you imagine him describing his penis in that dramatic voice to his partner? "When this bad boy goes off, it will make the whole room shake - and the good news is, I get to fire it!" *smirk*

*shudder*

You mean if someone else is likely to recoil from it because it's just THAT nasty, right?

I came across tazers new shotgun round too, tazers are more complicated then one might think. for an example: in a split second tazers will check the the electrical resistance of the target to determine whether the prongs hit skin flesh, so its a marvel that they got it that small

I wonder if pepper balls are dielectric so they could hold charge, then you would have a kinetic, chemical, and electric nonlethal

Ragnarok wrote:Wouldn't even begin to recommend what you're suggesting though. If the prongs pierce the skin, you will almost certainly kill someone, because you're then running hundreds of volts through the reasonably conductive blood and other fluids.

not quite, tazers pierce skin, in fact if you get hit by a tazer it is better that it would pierce the skin because electrical resistance produces heat, and you will some nasty burns

well I didn't intend to use skin penetrating prongs, sorry about my misleading diagram, my expectation is that the instant it hits a target the lesser resistance will make it discharge.
well anybody know about capacitors, how can I make a capacitor sure to hold a charge that wont decay for at least a second when in the air, and will hold high voltage

You can simply layer transperencies and Al Foil. Make sure you leave good clearance from the edges to prevent arc over. I'ts going to have to be fairly large if you want more than a few pf. You can also roll the finished capacitor to make it smaller.

Tazers use repeated high voltage pulses, not one sudden untamed discharge, and even then there have been some fatalities.

in fact if you get hit by a tazer it is better that it would pierce the skin because electrical resistance produces heat, and you will some nasty burns

Not at all, you're falling into a common misconception - you will note that despite my exceptionally high skin resistance, I am not bursting into flames, and that's because there is no current.

Current is the source of heat, and current is inversely proportional to the resistance. Higher resistance actually means less current for the same voltage, less heat, and thus no burns.

Of course, this assumes a good electrical connection with no arcing, which can cause burns, and indeed, I've had a number of burns as such.
But if the arcing is tamed, I've had 20,000 volts running across the surface of my skin with little more than the odd tingle.

It are the amperes that make you feel the shock.
But its the voltage that drives the amps when resistance is high.

To cause burns, the current needs to be quite high.

rp181 wrote:You can simply layer transperencies and Al Foil. Make sure you leave good clearance from the edges to prevent arc over. I'ts going to have to be fairly large if you want more than a few pf. You can also roll the finished capacitor to make it smaller.

Once did that with 2 meters of foil.
I didnt have the equipment for high voltage testing, but on 12 volts, it had enough power to flash a LED. Which is practically nothing.
Though on high voltages it should be able to store way more energy.
Especially since the voltage is expressed quadratic in the formula for energy in a capacitor.
E = 1/2*C*U^2

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Till the day I'm dieing, I'll keep them spuddies flying, 'cause I can!

Though on high voltages it should be able to store way more energy. Especially since the voltage is expressed quadratic in the formula for energy in a capacitor. E = 1/2*C*U^2

That would be right if everything stayed the same, but it doesn't. Higher voltage means thicker insulation, and capacitance is exponentially related to the distance. Think of it like gravity, Mass is like the foil.

Not sure why you (in the OP) have the charging circuit at the muzzle (if I correctly understand the drawing). A high voltage high capacitance cap takes a while to fully charge. Photoflash boards take several seconds to charge their cap.

If you are going to charge the cap in the barrel it should be connect to the charging circuit when the cap ammo is setting at the breach, before the gun is fired. (EDIT: perhaps that is what you meant? the orange in the drawing are seperate conductors running down to the cap?)

With a 300V photocap you can charge it outside the gun then load it (carefully ). A photocap will hold a charge for a while. Off hand, I would WAG a photocap as losing perhaps one volt per second when fully charged to 300V.