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I just got back from a 6-day trip with Alex and company! We had a fantastic time climbing some of the great ridges and ice/mixed lines that are in condition. Well done to everyone for pushing on some of the classics in the Toubkal Massif!

Looking back toward the refuge and the Toubkal Massif 29-1-16

Snowpack and Snow Cover

There has been no new snow despite the forecast predicting it on a number of occasions. This and the warmer temperatures have cased a gradual retreating of snow cover. We found the peaks Ras and Akioud still having good cover, but other peaks such as Toubkal pretty patchy!

A winter skills group near Tizi Ouagane 28-1-16

www.mountain-forecast.com

Akioud 25-1-16

Overall the snowpack was pretty stable over the last week and should continue as the temperature drops a bit over this week. Do continue to watch out and avoid pockets of windslab and as mentioned in an earlier report there is depth hoar in places (weak layer) which could be bad news if a big dump of snow materializes. The snowpack at the 3,500m mark should continue to turn to neve with the predicted freeze/thaw conditions.

Climbing Conditions

The route Corredor ENE del Ras, D, 500m route is still in great condition. The Afekhoi cascades are fatter and should be good for climbing with the lower temperatures. We climb Chockstone Gully this last week and finished up the route into the big bowl that you enter for summiting Afella. The ice is in good nick but the snow gully above is hard going with the bullet hard ice with 6 inches of snow on top! Curtain Call (the ice smear on the left of Chockstone) is thin near the top, but is in good conditions up to the smear. The South West ridge of Toubkal has seen a few ascents this week… we found hard neve between a few of the towers so don’t forget your ice axe and crampons for this classic rock ridge!

Anna on SW Ridge of Toubkal West 27-1-16

Looking across at Toubkal West from the exit of Chockstone gully 26-1-16

Overall there is still good ice around but none of the big lines on Toubkal West or Afella are in condition. Let’s hope mother nature has plans for more snow!

Me leading on Chockstone 26-1-16

Ben enjoying some steeper ice near the refuge 29-1-16

Alex and Ishta on the SW ridge of Toubkal West 27-1-16

Refuge Access

Mules are still able to get as far as the refuge which means no porters are needed currently! Do make sure that you hire muleteers that don’t overload their mules. You are looking to go no more than 80kg per mule!

Winter Conditions Summary

There has been no new snow over the last couple of weeks and we have seen a gradual but significant retreating of snowcover. There is still good cover on Ras and Akioud but a lot of the other peaks are pretty patchy. The dropping temperatures should help the the overall snow pack to firm up as it has been warmer in recent days, but once again due take care to avoid windslab deposits and continue to monitor the snowpack as there are weak layers in places. The snow around the 3,500m mark will start to firm up with the freeze thaw conditions.

Ben looking across at Ras, Akioud and Afella from the summit of Toubkal on 27-1-16

The mountaineering routes such as SW ridge of Toubkal West are in good conditions, but the bigger ice and mixed lines are still not in and are in need more snow! There is still good ice around the refuge and areas where there is good snow cover!

For a personalised trekking, guiding or instruction service and/or logistics for Toubkal and the High Atlas, get in touch with us here at The Mountain People!

James – full-time guide/instructor for TMP

Disclaimer: as a mountaineering instructor I have had avalanche risk assessment training and have a good level of experience but am by no means a professional avalanche forecaster. These reports aim to give you a general idea of the winter conditions for a few days ahead and the risks involved but please be diligent in checking weather forecasts yourself and monitoring the conditions when you are out in the High Atlas.

Well the mountains are looking a lot more wintery, but we still need more snow! I was out for the last 6 days with Martin, a keen alpinist from Germany and we got to do some of the classic ice/mixed and rock lines on Ras and Akioud and summited Toubkal via the North Col route. We had some pretty Scottish like weather with a good 4 to 6 inches of snow being dropped over Friday and Saturday!

North Col route up Toubkal 9-1-16

http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Toubkal/forecasts/4167

Looking out the north cwm 9-1-16

Snowpack and Snow Cover

Snow cover has come down to refuge height and we have had some stronger winds from the west / south west causing some windslab deposits on north/east aspects. We came across some knee deep drifts around the 3900m mark both on Akioud and the North Col route of Toubkal. The temperature is raising today to around the summits and then dropping over the next couple of days, which should help consolidate the new snow and help it bond to the older pack. The snow line will raise some over the next days with the higher freezing level, but we should hopefully keep a good amount of cover overall with freeze/thaw conditions predicted at the 3,500m. Be diligent to avoid windslab deposit and also, keep an eye on the snowpack as it warms and becomes heavier especially on the more sun exposed slopes and gullies.

Peaks: Ras and Akioud 9-1-16

Climbing Conditions

The ice that is around should get fatter with the addition of new snow. Hopefully we will see the big lines on Toubkal West and Akioud start to come in to condition. The route Corredor ENE del Ras, D, 500m (page 72 in Spanish guidebook) route is in great condition. The Afekhoi cascades should start to get a bit fatter as the temperature drops. Chockstone Gully as well as Curtain Call (the ice smear on the left) are ready for action. And there are pitches of ice around the refuge and near Tizi Ouagane that are in descent condition.

Anyone, wanting some good alpine rock ridges the approach slopes should be a bit easier as snow consolidates and hardens.

Martin coming up the second pitch on Akioud, east face 8-1-16

Martin on the Summit of Akioud 8-1-16

Refuge Access

Mules are still able to get as far as the refuge which means no porters are needed currently! Do make sure that you hire muleteers that don’t overload their mules. You are looking to go no more than 80kg per mule!

Leaving the refuge yesterday morning 10-1-16

Winter Conditions Summary

The new snow should consolidate and bond well to the old pack with the temperature raising and then steadily dropping over the next couple of days. The snowline is down to 3200m at the moment, but will creep up over the next couple of days. Due take care to avoid windslab deposits and continue to monitor the snowpack with the warmer temperatures. The mountaineering routes (ridges and major gullies that have snowcover) are in much better condition with the fresh snow and we should see an overall improvement of the ice and mixed lines and a general topping up of the ice that has been in. We still need more snow for skiing conditions to get good and for the big lines on Toubkal West and Afella to come into good condition, but the long term forecast is showing potential snow for next Wednesday fingers crossed!

For a personalised trekking, guiding or instruction service and/or logistics for Toubkal and the High Atlas, get in touch with us here at The Mountain People!

James – Full-time guide/instructor for TMP

Disclaimer: as a mountaineering instructor I have had avalanche risk assessment training and have a good level of experience but am by no means a professional avalanche forecaster. These reports aim to give you a general idea of the winter conditions for a few days ahead and the risks involved but please be diligent in checking weather forecasts yourself and monitoring the conditions when you are out in the High Atlas.

Over the Christmas and New Year period there has been little change to the conditions on Toubkal and in the High Atlas mountains. For more details on what the conditions are like please see my last post! Generally speaking northerly aspects higher up have snow and ice. There is good neve for quick travel in places, but I did find some depth hoar a (weak layer) about 4inches down on approaching the peak Akioud, but it seemed to be well bonded to the adjacent layers. There is a bit of snow in the forecast… let’s hope it materializes as things are pretty thin at the moment!

I will be out for the next 6 days and will post full length conditions update late next week!

Here are some photos from my last trip right before Christmas! This will give you a good idea of what the current winter conditions are!

Over the last couple of weeks there has been little change in winter conditions for the High Atlas and Toubkal. There has been no new snow unfortunately!

Toubkal – photo taken from the Tadat col 15-12-15

Marc and I have been out checking out routes and conditions underfoot since Saturday and just got back yesterday evening. We spent the majority of our time based at the Toubkal refuge but did head over the Tadat col to see what the crack was on the Tazaghart plateau / Lepiney refuge side. The approach and descent gullies where hard going on the scree that is usually covered in snow by now. The northern cwm on the Tadat traverse had a good amount of snow and a few sections of old windslab that should be treated with caution! We found similar bits of old windslab on our descent off Akioud. These less stable section are easily avoided and are very small and in isolated areas on more northerly aspects, but again should be avoided.

Akioud 14-12-15

Snowpack and Snow Cover

Snow cover again varies from 3500 to 3,800m depending on how exposed it is to the sun. And as noted in my last post the snow is well consolidated and firm underfoot which makes travel pretty quick. There are isolated patches of old windslab as mentioned should be avoided. Even though the snow cover is limited, do bring an axe and crampons as they are essential for safe travel on the hard neve! The standard routes up Toubkal, Ras and Timesguida, Akioud all need crampons and ice axes.

North cwn Tadat traverse

Climbing Conditions

There is some ice in condition, but the major lines ice/mixed lines on Toubkal West, Afella need more snow. The Afekhoi cascades continue to have a few pitches of ice. Chockstone Gully as well as Curtain Call (the ice smear on the left) are in. On Sunday, we climbed the couloir up the center of Ras which makes a nice mountaineering day and on our way back to the refuge spotted some good ice near the Tizi Ouagane areas!

Main couloir up Ras 13-12-15

Also, some of the major gully lines on the Tazaghart plateau looked to be in good condition while the descent gully was lacking snow. As you can see for the picture below, almost all the major approach slopes in this area are snow free which will make for hard going to reach the snow in the gully lines.

Tazaghart Plateau area 15-12-15

Anyone who is wanting some good alpine rock ridges there is plenty in condition with the upper approach slopes to the routes on Ras and Akioud covered in neve.

Mohammed (TMP cook and head muleteer) enjoying some easy access ice near the refuge!

Chockstone Gully as well as Curtain Call 13-12-15

Ice near Tizi Ouagane 13-12-15

Refuge Access

Mules are able to get as far as the refuge which means no porters are needed currently. Do make sure that you hire muleteers that don’t overload their mules. You are looking to go no more than 80kg per mule!

Marc at the l’Amguird Col

Marc on the AD+ route on Akioud -14-12-15

Winter Conditions Summary

The snowpack is overall good solid neve and well consolidated! The snowline is pretty high at the moment, around the 3500 to 3800m mark and even higher on the southerly facing slopes. Crampons and ice axe are need for the major peaks. Due to the snow being hard and well consolidated the avalanche risk is low but do take care to avoid old patches of windslab and continue to monitor the weather forecast as a big dump of snow would change things! The mountaineering routes (ridges and major gullies that have snowcover) are in good condition and a few of the ice routes look to be in, but most of the ice and mixed climbing needs a lot more snow to get good.

Weather forecast from www.mountain-forecast.com 16-12-15

James: full-time instructor/guide for TMP

For a personalised trekking, guiding or instruction service and/or logistics for Toubkal and the High Atlas, get in touch with us here at The Mountain People!

Disclaimer: as a mountaineering instructor I have had avalanche risk assessment training and have a good level of experience but am by no means a professional avalanche forecaster. These reports aim to give you a general idea of the winter conditions for a few days ahead and the risks involved but please be diligent in checking weather forecasts yourself and monitoring the conditions when you are out in the High Atlas.

I got back a few days ago from a recce trip to Norway! I was joined by Dan a good friend and client who was up for bit of an adventure checking out the ice climbing venues in Rjukan! We got some good climbing in despite the conditions not being at their best! Thanks for coming along Dan!

A little bit about Rjukan

The area is fantastic for beginners and those looking to up their game as there a load of easy accessible single pitch sites plus plenty of multi-pitch for those wanting a longer day out! There is something for everyone grade wise. You can get there in about 3.5 hs from the Oslo international airport and Norwegians on the whole speak very good English, so logistics are pretty straight forward. The area is beautiful with small villages spread across the valleys that are surrounded by rolling peaks… the places has a similar feel to Scotland.

A bit of History

Rjukan and specifically Vemork area (where a beautiful power plant building that gives a warm yellow glow during the morning and evenings) was occupied by the Germans during the second world war and was place that German scientist were carrying out their heavy water research for an atomic bomb. There were a serious of brave acts of sabotage carried out by Norwegians and British that prevented the Germans for reaching their goal. Some good climbing existed in the gorge just below the power plant!

Guidebook

For good beta on logistics, accommodation, areas and routes, etc check out RockFax’s guidebook Heavy Water – Rjukan Ice. We found it to be invaluable!

We are looking to run ice climbing trips to Rjukan in the near future, so do drop us a line if you are interested in a trip!

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, April 2015

“James’ passion for the Atlas and its people really comes across and adds to an itinerary that was organised and...

DF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, April 2015

2016-02-08T16:57:49+00:00

DF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, April 2015

“James’ passion for the Atlas and its people really comes across and adds to an itinerary that was organised and executed perfectly. This was a fantastic introduction to Morocco’s mountains and a great trip!”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

“Great trip, well organised and made that much more exciting and worthwhile given the extremely challenging environment we faced. James...

IM from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

2016-02-08T17:04:15+00:00

IM from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

“Great trip, well organised and made that much more exciting and worthwhile given the extremely challenging environment we faced. James went beyond the call to make our trip memorable for each of us so a BIG THANK YOU”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

"Had a wonderful memorable time. In the conditions which we were faced with, this was a great challenge. The success...

MJ from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

2016-02-08T17:05:35+00:00

MJ from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

"Had a wonderful memorable time. In the conditions which we were faced with, this was a great challenge. The success we enjoyed was in no small part made possible by the skill and encouragement which James provided and cheerful muscle power supplied by the porters to get our kit to the refuge."

High Atlas 4,000m Peaks Trip, Feb 2015

“This was a fantastic week to climb in a remoter area with straightforward and easy access to the mountains. Our...

PF from Scotland / High Atlas 4,000m Peaks Trip, Feb 2015

2016-02-08T17:06:45+00:00

PF from Scotland / High Atlas 4,000m Peaks Trip, Feb 2015

“This was a fantastic week to climb in a remoter area with straightforward and easy access to the mountains. Our guides James and Alex were professional and approachable making sure everyone got from the experience what they could. I’ve already started to read the guide book to see what else is available!”

Logistics Only Package Trip, Feb 2015

“A really well organised trip which made life very simple for us all, and the pre arrival advice was helpful...

AS from UK / Logistics Only Package Trip, Feb 2015

2016-02-08T17:09:20+00:00

AS from UK / Logistics Only Package Trip, Feb 2015

“A really well organised trip which made life very simple for us all, and the pre arrival advice was helpful to. Totally worth the (modest) fees charged for a hassle free week. Would thoroughly recommend you guys to others.”

High Atlas Alpine Ridge Trip, June 2014

“I had a fantastic time climbing alpine ridges in the Toubkal massif. From the amazing logistics help to the delicious...

FD from the USA / High Atlas Alpine Ridge Trip, June 2014

2016-02-08T17:14:35+00:00

FD from the USA / High Atlas Alpine Ridge Trip, June 2014

“I had a fantastic time climbing alpine ridges in the Toubkal massif. From the amazing logistics help to the delicious prepared food at the hut, everything was in place to make the most of my short time in the area and get as much climbing in as possible. Climbing with James was a treat, and was a perfect mix of professionalism and friendliness. I was able to use and expand my skill set under a watchful friendly eye, and overall had a tremendous experience with some fantastic people.”

Mgoun Winter Ascent Trip, April 2014

“The booking form was straightforward and easy to complete and the attached documents concerning kit were useful to read when...

IR from Scotland / Mgoun Winter Ascent Trip, April 2014

2016-02-08T17:15:55+00:00

IR from Scotland / Mgoun Winter Ascent Trip, April 2014

“The booking form was straightforward and easy to complete and the attached documents concerning kit were useful to read when packing. We had a fantastic and successful summit day, James was an excellent guide, looked after us well and was good company throughout. We owe the overall success of this trip to him, a big thanks!”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2014

“Thanks for the experience, the climb, the chat and the beauty of your town and mountains. I will definitely be...

MA from Kuwait / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2014

2016-02-08T17:16:59+00:00

MA from Kuwait / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2014

“Thanks for the experience, the climb, the chat and the beauty of your town and mountains. I will definitely be on the lookout for more adventure with you guys… Give my thanks to Miriam as well, and to Mohammed for such a great job.”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2014

“Miriam was amazingly helpful. Considering we booked relatively last minute she answered my (many) questions. On the trip James kept...

KS from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2014

2016-02-08T17:18:23+00:00

KS from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2014

“Miriam was amazingly helpful. Considering we booked relatively last minute she answered my (many) questions. On the trip James kept us up to date with the weather conditions which meant we always felt confident in his decisions. James was brilliant and kept reassuring us when we were using new skills. He was super patient when I was a bit apprehensive on the decent too. He also kept us up to date with the weather conditions.”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2013

“Thank you so much for such a great trip. It was really good to have you and the other guys...

AB from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2013

2016-02-08T17:19:37+00:00

AB from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2013

“Thank you so much for such a great trip. It was really good to have you and the other guys with us. I have been waiting to go on such a trip with the boys for a while and it really couldn’t have worked out better…perfect duration, great location and hard enough to give them (and me) a real sense of achievement. The company also helped to make it really memorable. Hopefully it’s given them the taste for it!”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“I just wanted to send you a quick note to say thank you for all your help in organising our...

AF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

2016-02-08T17:20:48+00:00

AF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“I just wanted to send you a quick note to say thank you for all your help in organising our trip in Morocco last week, we all had a brilliant time and it left us itching to want to go back! Special thanks must go to James for providing the perfect mix of safety and fun, for which we were all very grateful.”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“A quick word to say that we’ve been very happy with our trip to Toubkal. Great experience and great work...

HC from France / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

2016-02-08T17:22:05+00:00

HC from France / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“A quick word to say that we’ve been very happy with our trip to Toubkal. Great experience and great work from James who’s done a brilliant guiding job! Please convey our good wishes to him and the whole crew (Mohammed, with whom we walked down to Imlil was very kind and the cook did a splendid job at this altitude!). Good luck to you guys!”

Winter Alpine Ridges

"Nothing but good things to say. Again I feel like James did a great job driving this experience for Mike...

ZR from Texas / Custom Winter Climbing Trip, March 2016

2016-04-07T09:08:37+00:00

ZR from Texas / Custom Winter Climbing Trip, March 2016

"Nothing but good things to say. Again I feel like James did a great job driving this experience for Mike and I, and I learned tons of new things that I hope to implement as soon as possible! The entire staff was very friendly and accommodating. But obviously the main goal of the trip was to get into the mountains and do some climbing and not kill ourselves in the process. We were able to accomplish this, almost exclusively because of the help of James and the mountain people, despite not great weather conditions most days! So thank you very much for the great experience!"