For peace and solitude, overlooked Waterton is a great winter destination

Thursday, December 6, 2012

By Jody Robbins, For the Calgary Herald

Showshoeing in Waterton National Park.

I’m panting so loud you’d think I was in labour. We’ve only hiked a kilometer and change, but gaining 240 metres in elevation during a 25 minute jaunt will do that to you. The stresses of city life are quickly shed, as we grind our way up several switchbacks that look as though they’ve been dusted with icing sugar.

At the summit of Bear’s Hump in Waterton Lakes National Park, the reward can be seen and felt by simply turning your head from left to right. Here, you’re perfectly positioned to witnesses the results of an ancient geological battle — a complete change in topography, as prairie grasslands morph into the majestic Rocky Mountains.

From this vantage point, the tiny town in the deeply cleaved valley looks like a toy village. There’s no sign of life, save a few deer grazing in the old schoolyard. Not only do I feel on top of the world, I feel like I’m the only person in the world. Coming to this salubrious spot in winter, is like having an entire National Park to yourself.

Only two hotels and the post office remain open after the September long weekend. Strolling along main street’s boarded-up shops, you’re lucky to see a soul, quite the contrast to summer’s swarm of tourists. And it’s this solitude that draws die-hard winter warriors.

Escaping the crowds of Kananaskis and Banff National Park is what drew Canmore residents Lisa Guest and Remo Targa to Waterton.

“We came because no one was here,” admits Guest.

While you may not see many people, winter is one of the best times to view wildlife in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. From bighorn sheep to the deer that seem permanently ensconced beside Waterton Lakes Lodge, it’s unlikely you’ll leave Waterton without an encounter.

Driving through the entrance to the park in the early morning and evening almost guarantees an elk sighting, thanks to strong winds that blow snow off the prairie grass and copses of aspen that serve as shelter.

“It’s like the Serengeti,” says Janice Smith, Communications Officer with Waterton Lakes National Park. “You can find up to 500 elk eating grass, then melting into the trees. You won’t get that in summer.”

But we don’t come across any wildlife during our second hike, this time up to Bertha Falls. The crunch of snow beneath our boots is our only companion, as we plod up the trail that snakes its way to Bertha Peak.

We don’t need to wear snowshoes for the first half of this hike. There’s more slush than snow, but the lack of coverage doesn’t dampen our al fresco adventure. The sun escapes from behind the clouds, offering glorious views of Upper Waterton Lake and the peaks of Glacier National Park stabbing the sky.

“I love hiking Bertha Falls in winter. You get great views of the lake and aren’t stuck in trees the entire way,” says local Julie Millar.

About halfway up, what I think is wind rushing through the trees is actually the sound of the falls pummeling down. Suddenly there’s much more accumulation, a heavy blanket of snow covers the trail, making it snowshoe worthy and we strap on in anticipation.

Having never used snowshoes before, I expect it to feel like walking on marshmallows, but my candy land fantasy is just that. I still sink into the snow, but it’s easier than hiking in winter boots — and let’s be honest, snowshoes make hiking more fun. We go off-piste into deeper pockets along the trail and run down to the water’s edge once we hit the falls.

It’s relatively flat up to Bertha Falls, but after crossing the falls via wooden bridge, the remaining 2.7 km up to Bertha Lake is a whole different hike. The trail quickly steepens following a series of switchbacks, as it ascends the slopes of Mt. Richards. Avalanches are a risk here, so hikers are advised to be prepared, and check warnings in the area. Still, trudging through the snow proves to be an exhilarating workout, and my legs still tingle hours later, despite massaging them with jacuzzi jets post piste.

Probably the most popular route in the park for snowshoeing and cross country skiing are the Cameron Lake trails. Here, you’ll spot tracks of snowshoe hares and squirrels and possibly moose or river otters playing in the lake.

“This area is good for families and new learners, because it doesn’t have huge hills or difficult terrain,” says Smith.

Ice climbing is also popular off the Akamina Parkway, Crandle Lake, and just behind the Warden’s residence. For those hardy enough, winter camping is free at Pass Creek picnic site.

But you don’t have to be hardcore to get away from it all, just willing to give up access to all things 24/7. If cross country skiing, snowshoeing and scaling frozen waterfalls aren’t your thing, there’s no shame in getting your workout walking to the hot tub. If you do make it outside, expect the only company you’ll keep will have fur and four legs – so tote an animal tracks guide to figure out who’s in the snow beside you.

Snowshoes ($15), cross country and back country skis ($20-$40) can be rented from Waterton Lakes Lodge.

The Parks Canada office is open Monday to Friday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Prior to snowshoeing and skiing around the Cameron Lakes area, check Park’s website to ensure the Akamina Parkway is open (www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/waterton/index.aspx).

Weekend ice climbers and backcountry enthusiasts are advised to phone ahead. Contact Banff Dispatch 403-762-1473, and ask to be redirected to the Waterton Visitor Safety Technicians. Calls are returned promptly to update you on current conditions.