I stumbled upon a craigslist ad for a Callaway Turbo 633. A couple of pictures and a brief description was all that was included, so I decided to email for more information. After a couple of weeks with no response, I called. I ended up reaching the guy and arranged a meetup. The car was full of trash and obviously on the back burner as one of his projects, but just so happened to have a decent interior, pretty low mileage, and in running driving condition. I took it around the block and found that it needed some work, but the turbo spooled up but seemed to run pretty well.

I have been torn on bringing my 535i to the track as it is a good runner for DD duties, and I haven't been confident yet enough in the M5 or 635 Euro to thrash either on the track, or throw money at them for track use. I figured this could be a car that I wouldn't feel bad about beating up a bit on a track day.

So after making the deal and filling out some paper work, I drove it over to a friends house who was willing to let me keep it there for a while and also happens to have two 535i parts cars that may turn out to be donor cars for both his car and this E24.

So i had to chance on Saturday to get over there and see a bit more of what I am starting with on this car.

The car was pretty dirty, but it is evident the callaway kit has been on there for a good while. Definitely needs work, but the turbo kit is all there with the intercooler and everything.

7th injector is run by an add on box called the microfueler

It adds a 7th injector into the Callaway manifold, and the injector is controlled by the 'microfueler' callaway brain. It takes input from manifold inlet pressure and looks at the signal from the coil. I'm trying to figure out how it fits in the with ECU, but it seems that it is completely stand alone and adjustable as I have found in my research. My understanding is that is a generic setup that was used on l-jet, k-jet and other cars from the 80's like the 320i, GTI's, and Alfas of the time. That is where I have actually found most of my documentation.

Of course you have the argument that it is a band-aid type solution because the additional fuel is not coming through the injectors, so you probably don't have even fuel distribution to each cylinder. So others have suggested replacing it with an RRFPR to control fuel into the injectors and distribute more evenly. Either way, it seems like a setup with intercooler may be a good basis to start with for moderate power increase, something no more than probably 10psi and maybe ~250hp as seen with the 745i M102. Of course the 633 has the intercooler behind the airdam, on a 533/E28, you may have to put it in the engine bay-- there are photos of it out there, but somewhat similar to that of the 745 plumbing. Maybe some more knowledgeable can explain this ot me a bit better?

I figured it would be a good idea to share all the information I have found for this setup...
The complete kit, found on another post here on mye28:

Microfueler basic info:

Install information:

Adjustment information:

Back to the car itself, it was a bit messy. The PO seemed to use it as a storage box with a bunch of junk inside. I found tools, cd's, popcorn, fastfood trash, cell phones, clothes, candy, dogfood, etc etc all throughout the interior and trunk. The good news is that a bunch of the BMW parts were still among the mess.

Trash emptied

If you didn't already notice, the wiring is hacked. Going to have to clean all of this up, AFM connections held together by speaker wire nuts...

At least it's a start:

My friends driveway:

The PO put a different set of springs on the rear :dunno: I don't really know why you would want to raise it. The interesting part is that he also has undersize 14" tires on the car...

Where it sits until i can get back to work on it. Unfortunately progress will likely be very slow until I get a place of my own where I can keep it, but for now it has a new home.

The biggest needs of the car are brake bomb, passenger side motor mount, wiring, 4th gear synchro is bad, steam cleaning inside, powerwash and exterior refresh, and then turbo system refurb. My main goal for the time being will be to get it running reliably, along with electronics cleaned up and sorted so that I may be able to get it out to a lapping day with the 'as is' turbo setup. Although I have a lot to learn when it comes to FI, I will be doing more research than anything.

Last edited by tschultz on Thu Jun 28, 2018 6:14 pm, edited 2 times in total.

So it has almost been a year since I actually bought this car but I am finally getting other projects and things in order to resume working on it.

In August of last year, I purchased a house. I had been searching for a good 5 months and the previous year and a half had me commuting to work and back. With no storage space or time, I was behind on maintenance and other items on my 3 cars. So needless to say, since I got the house I had lots of projects to catch up on, along with the Annual Drive 4 Corners BMW Meet. It takes a lot of time to keep up with planning that event and organizing all the fine details.

Anyway on to the story of the car. As I mentioned, I purchased it last year and was able to store it at a friends house. I have had in the back of my head for a long time to turbo charge an M30, it has just seemed like a neat platform and there's a decent amount of bolt on upgrades for performance. Really the goal of all this would be a performance oriented car for lapping days at the track, and possibly autocross. Either way, I felt that this car was not perfect when I bought it and has a salvage title from a prior wreck. That, coupled with the PO's 'Fixes' makes me feel like I can't exactly mess up this car more than it already is. I liked that it was running and driving when I bought it, plus it is a manual.

I finally got into the house, and it happened to be a week before D4C. This meant I had a very busy week, especially since I didn't take off work that week! I got extremely lucky to find a 3 Car garage in my price range, and I mean one with a house/interior that would be reasonable for the future.

Unfortunately there was a lot of work to do to in advance. First priority was to sell the GF's Jeep (since it was taking up a garage space after I cleaned it all up). But it was nice to have the storage space for waxing the cars-- a place where they will actually STAY CLEAN.

I installed garage lighting (as there was practically none before) in both bays and built work benches in each. The house was literally empty in the garage, I have been adding storage space such as shelving and wiring the secondary garage door opener to power. It is crazy to me how the previous owners had left it, but this just means that I have more flexibility for my own space. I wasn't sure I would, but I actually like the split 2 car garage, as in the below zero winter, it stays a decent 35 degrees, while the other stall gets below freezing. The means I can still have a work space for a car if I need to do some repairs in the cold season...

I moved the 633 to the house under it's own power, and surprisingly, even though it has a huge exhaust leak, and bad brake bomb, I was able to make it home in a traffic jam through Denver. Parking the car at the house was a good feeling... until I was looking at it every day stuck on the side of the street without tags.

So, I realized instead of getting a ticket, I should move in to the yard. Conveniently the side fence fell down in November from the PO's hack fix (they didn't set the post in concrete, they used nails to hold it together, and they used 2x4's nailed together as a post! ). But since it fell down, I had a great opportunity to make a hinged gate into the side yard of my house. Some may have noticed it in the earlier photos. This worked out pretty well, so before I put the posts in, I drove the car into the yard.

I got the hinged gate up and it has been quite convenient so far. The space means I have additional parking for a second car if the need arises. The main reason I have updated this now is that I have begun to make additional progress although it is going to be slow. I started by taking off the thrashed front spoiler and front bumper. This exposed the intercooler and will allow me to thoroughly degrease everything in the near future.

Also the perfect opportunity to mock up my spare euro spoiler and bumper.

Last weekend I met my friend to pull the donor motor for the car. I believe the B32 engine has an oil pump issue, the oil pressure light never goes out except when revving above 2000rpm. Oil pressure stays around 5psi until you get to that point. Maybe the pump bolts are loose, but either way, I figure a new motor will be the best way to go. I grabbed a G265 to go along with the new motor so hopefully no trans issues down the road.

The donor. A US 533i that had a B34 and G265 trans:

Getting the engine and trans out with load leveler:

The engine is a stock M30B34 and it has Ford Lime Green injectors (42lb F83e-a5a). I am thinking these may work for a low 5-8psi turbo build (maybe with, maybe without the callaway kit).

Anyway, the Callaway Microfueler is standalone. This means the 7th injector is more or less an add on kit to the Motronic ECU. The M30B34 allows me to go with an 059 ECU and maybe possibly buy the TCD turbo chip if necessary. If I understand its function correctly, I could disconnect the Callway microfueler/injector lead, and using a RRFPR and the chip, I could have a base tune for a entry level turbo setup. The car already has a starting point as far as hardware...

Which leads me to now. I will be cleaning out the car in the next few days before heading out of town for a business trip. I am hoping to get the interior cleaned up and get the drivers window operable again. When I return from my trip, my friend Mike and I will be pulling the engine to do the swap.

Right now, it looks like the B32 block has been tapped for the oil drain. With the new engine I am thinking of tapping a spare pan and swapping it in just prior to the engine install. I will retrofit the oil filter/feed from the B32 engine to the B34. Then, the other hardware should swap over. Any thoughts on this? It looks like a standard NPT fitting to AN hose is the best way, so the hose can be removed quickly and easily.

The biggest needs of the car are brake bomb,............................................

Tom,
What were the indications that the brake accumulator needed replacing?

When pressing the brake pedal, there is no response for about a full second or two. Also, the brake warning light comes on for a second. Then, the brakes come on (hard).

Basically, the bomb (accumulator) no longer holds pressure. Since the system isn't vacuum boosted, the bomb (when operating properly) gives you boosted pedal even if the engine is off. Press the pedal when the car is off, and if it gets hard within 2 presses, the bomb is likely bad. If it takes 15+ pumps for the pedal to get hard, the bomb is still working properly.

tschultz wrote:
When pressing the brake pedal, there is no response for about a full second or two. Also, the brake warning light comes on for a second. Then, the brakes come on (hard).

Basically, the bomb (accumulator) no longer holds pressure. Since the system isn't vacuum boosted, the bomb (when operating properly) gives you boosted pedal even if the engine is off. Press the pedal when the car is off, and if it gets hard within 2 presses, the bomb is likely bad. If it takes 15+ pumps for the pedal to get hard, the bomb is still working properly.

I spent this weekend cleaning up the interior and working on fixes like the hood latch and trunk lock.

I took out both seats to deep clean the carpets and and get rid of all the trash. It's looking better but still a ways to go! At least it's usable inside now...

I still need a window motor, but for the time being I can open and close it manually.

I replaced the trunk lock with a spare I had. Before I couldn't unlock the car from the trunk. Now I have two trunk keys and the all of the central locking units work properly.

I got the fuses in order and replaced the bad fuses. Now the trunk light, interior light, and sidemarkers work. However, the headlights don't work properly. I see the wiring has been rewrapped and spliced into, so I will have to determine the issue.

Lastly, I went through the engine bay and tightened up the AFM connections as it wasn't idling due to a improper seal. Now the car starts up every time and idles properly. It is now driveable to my friends place for the engine swap.

I replaced the hood latch cable and now can close and latch the hood properly, along with cleaning out the dirt and crap in the bay. There is more work to be done such as degreasing, but it is getting closer to being ready to be pulled out in favor of the M30B34.

I had been out of town for work all last week, so I continued some progress this weekend getting the car ready for the engine to be taken out. This included a few things.

I was able to get my hands on a TCD turbo chip. the plan is to use the microfueler to get the car up and running after the swap since so much will be a direct swap onto the engine I pulled out. Here's the chip in the 059 ECU:

I continued this morning trying to track down the wiring issue I am having with headlights. They operate properly with the high beam switch on, however, the low beams do not come on with the normal switch. I have determining that the relays are working and the wiring at the lamps is correct... I am a little bit at a loss because the switch on the steering wheel doesn't look to have been messed with.

I am guessing it may be the white/gray wire that was cut on the headlight switch. I'll investigate more later.

In the mean time, I decided to rewrap the wiring harness, because for some reason half of the protective wrap had been removed. Here's how it was-- I wanted to add another layer of protection from wear along the front clip and sheetmetal parts.

Next, I was unhappy with the gauge pod location so I removed it from the knee panel. It was not usable to look at your knees when driving around. The first step was the dismount the pod location and remove the wiring.

I'll be rerunning wiring, labeling it, and cleaning it up so it is not so much a rats nest. But I did like that the gauges were all still lighted.

The Callaway AFR gauage didn't work, but I suspect it just wasn't completing the signal to the sensor. Either way, I will be using an AEM UEGO Wideband to monitor the fuel mixture. It will be more accurate and real time anyway. Maybe down the road I will log the data on a laptop.

Finally, I spent an hour or so de-greasing the engine bay and piping. This is all in anticipation of the swap. Immediately the engine looked 10x better than what it was before since a nice layer of dirt came off. I take a look back at my original purchase photos and I don't understand how somebody lets their car get like this. The piping is actually much closer to silver than the black it was before.

More photos to come later this week when the engine pull begins.

Last edited by tschultz on Fri Apr 24, 2015 3:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

tschultz wrote:
When pressing the brake pedal, there is no response for about a full second or two. Also, the brake warning light comes on for a second. Then, the brakes come on (hard).

Basically, the bomb (accumulator) no longer holds pressure. Since the system isn't vacuum boosted, the bomb (when operating properly) gives you boosted pedal even if the engine is off. Press the pedal when the car is off, and if it gets hard within 2 presses, the bomb is likely bad. If it takes 15+ pumps for the pedal to get hard, the bomb is still working properly.

Thanks. It appears the one on my car still works more or less.

Also, here's a great write up for bomb replacement. Basically the same for E24.

Instead of sticky vinyl electrical tape use TESA 51006 (no fleece) or 51616 (thick fleece) wrap tape. More like OEM and will not get gooey. Also you can unwrap it without a problem.
Find it on ebay for about $10-$12/roll

You were talking about fabbing a recirc valve circuit in your other thread.
Because I am running a MAF it's really sensitive to intake volume surge.
I had a bung welded onto the intake snout above the valve cover and ran a Porsche 930 blow off valve back into the turbo intake, downstream from the MAF.

It's nothing fancy but solved some serious drivability issues for the time being. I couldn't beat the cost at the time.

Here are some shots from my thread, starting halfway down page 6 and on to page 7.

Also installation of crankcase vent to catch can and then to intake, downstream from the MAF.

In order to do the swap, my friend will need a bit of additional space in his driveway. So on Sunday, I rode down to his house and drove one of his cars back to my place to be parked on the side of the house.

Also, i realized I didn't post the after photos of the engine bay. It is still super greasy, but much cleaner than before. Shame to get it all cleaned up and not enjoy it, but the new engine will make it all worthwhile. The B32 is leaking oil from the front seal anytime it is driven long enough to completely heat up the oil.

Yesterday I installed the Euro turn signals and trimmed the reflectors so that I could finally remove the 'elephant ear' '83-'87 turn signal lenses.

I tried to identify the issue with the low beam headlights and I believe it is caused by the "Low Beam Check Relay" inside the fusebox board. If I understand this does not usually go out, but it is the only thing that explains why fuses and relays are good, wiring is good, and the low beams only work when the turn signal stalk is moved to the high beam position. Either way, this should be an issue that is found on 533i's, and it seems like in all my searching nobody has a proper fix. People jumper past the relay and complete the circuit from underneath. I will have to think about how I want to do this.

Additionally, I got the AEM UEGO Wideband in the mail, so I installed it. I didn't want to mess with a gaugepod yet, so it is in a temporary position until I can finalize all of the wiring.

And a couple photos of the interior as well. It is liveable now, although there is still more cleaning to do yet!

So today, I got off work early today and did a few things on the car, in preparation for removing the engine tomorrow and Friday. I got an oil drain fitting and had the oil pan tapped for it. The engine in the car has the block tapped, but I figured adding some additional height for the drain to feed by gravity would be a good idea. Plus I had the spare pan and was able to clean it up, it seemed like a no-brainer to do it this way and not risk the metal shavings. 1/2" NPT (m) x -10AN. New Parker hi temp hose will be used also. The -10AN means the passageway is 1/2" in diameter, all in efforts to eliminate as much backpressure to the turbo (oil feed/return) as possible.

I also pulled the trigger on some Style 42 wheels. I have seen some photos of these wheels and on an E24, they look killer! They are nice enough that even just putting them next to the car makes the crappy paint look that much better.

Tomorrow We will be tearing into it and I have all new steering components like idler arm, center link, and tie rod ends so that I can replace these while there is clearance with the turbo dismounted. So here's a few photos of the car currently. From 10 feet, the paint looks decent and I think will be good enough to become a track vehicle. The spoiler is off so that I don't have to mess with it and store it when we are actually doing the swap.

Euro headlights.

So driving the car right now is a little interesting because the 260/5 only has gears 1,2, and 5. That coupled with the exhaust leak means that it is a little noisy, and you have to rev it up quite a bit to get up to speed to use 5th gear. It feels like the turbo never really spools in 1st gear because of this leak. Also, this means I don't know how accurate the wideband reading is at the moment. But with that said, the vacuum/boost gauge will sit at 5psi when accelerating in 2nd gear. Even with the leaks, it feels like it is pulling as fast as the M5 in second gear(at altitude). The good news is that the microfueler is keeping the AFR's at about 12.5-13 when on the gas. When off the gas however, and maybe it is because of the exhaust leak, I am getting 17 readings on the AFR. Getting the exhaust leak fixed will be the first priority with the new engine, and dialing in the microfueler to keep a steady AFR will be next.

I want to add a turbo bypass valve, as the car currently doesn't have one. I want to add it so that the new engine won't be subject to any sort of surge. Now at 5psi or less in the intake manifold, I don't know if that's possible, but it is one of the first items I will address. Not sure if this means the turbo will need to be refreshed, but I know it can't be good. I'd like to position it as close to the throttle as possible, so in my head, I was thinking at the ICV. Maybe I can remove this and the car will still idle when cold? It will have the larger injectors so I'll try it at least.

So i certainly have a lot of work ahead of me, but I am hoping to make major progress with the engine swap in the next 2 days as I am taking off work to get it done.

So I worked all day today to get the new engine ready to go and although I don't have photos today. We got the oil pan in place, new starter, old transmission off, old clutch off. New flywheel will go on tomorrow, along with the G265 that we assembled and the oil filter housing/turbo feed will be swapped.

The Old ECU, wiring and everything in the engine is ready for a pull tomorrow. There were many things messed up about the engine and car, but I am very glad to be changing so much of it. The coolant was nasty brown, the radiator will need to be flushed because of this. The exhaust was held in place by wire and chain, there was a spark plug and socket in the fender wheel, along with a bunch more trash and crap in the nooks and crannies, and to top it all off, the exhaust was pieced together so that that block of wood (in post 1) was holding the wastegate together to the exhaust and downpipe. We were sitting there scratching our heads on how to remove the system from the car when we decided to start taking off the exhaust and driveshaft from underneath. When we got the rats next of wires and such removed and the mounts, I realized the exhaust felt a bit free.This was after we had removed the wooden block for jack support, and all the sudden the exhaust bits fell apart!

Curious to hear about your other exhaust suggestions. I'll provide a few photos when I load them up, but for now you all will have to wait.

continuing the updates.

The donor engine had to have a few changes since it was already out of the car.
B35 smaller starter. Re-manufactured Bosch unit.

Starter in place, light weight flywheel in place (my friend had a spare and he was going to take mine when it came out). Oil pan off, for installation of tapped one. Cleaning of the mating surfaces.

Oil pump bolts all nice and tight.

New oil pan awaiting installation

Oil pan installed.

While it is accessible, we replaced this fuel line, I believe this is the cold start injector. PITA out of the car, how do you do it in the car??

Moved the car inside to start the teardown.

I think the front main seal was the culprit of this greasy mess. The other interesting part was that the coolant was a nasty brown color, and the radiator was coated with the same sludge as well.

Removing the exhaust was the next step to get the driveshaft off and transmission crossmember removed. The down pipe could not be unbolted in the car, so we were looking to see how the exhaust was fixed. Unfortunately, it was looking like the we were going to have to cut the down pipe to allow clearance for the motor pull since it couldn't be unbolted.

Well, remember that block of wood jammed in between the firewall from this picture?

We decided to remove it to see what sort of clearance we had to work with.

That's when the rear section of the exhaust decided that it was now free to separate:

That's when the wastegate downpipe flange became available.

This was a sigh of relief for both of us- we were laughing at the hillbilly engineering. Of course this block of wood wasn't a Callaway special part.

Full exhaust down after cutting and removing the chian and bailing wire that was holding it all in place

ECU and such removed. Besides the transmission and removing the AC unit, it was a good stopping point for the night.

The next day we continued and started on pulling the engine.

It was quite greasy so I didn't get a ton of photos, but we managed . After a good bit of finesse we were able to get it up and out! Unfortunately I will have to replace the heater core as some point as we didn't take off one of the hose clamps.

Turbo off:

Rolled the car out to have some more space to work:

Here's the turbo, flange and downpipe orientation. I am going to have this remade. Somebody tried a 'fix' at some point and failed miserably. The weld bits got everywhere and did not seal at all. Maybe at one point it was held in place, but it had obviously cracked by this point in time.

Wastegate gasket also blown. This is the correct/original rotomaster wastegate.

I plan to have the unit retapped so the mounting screws go in all the way nicely. Notice the failed turbo gasket. I believe this is a T3 turbo gasket that I should be able to get at the local turbo store? I'll find out this week.

This gasket has the rotomaster part number on it too.

The turbo seems to not have any side to side shaft play, and spins smoothly. I may have been lucky. As the other kit sold here, it has the Rotomaster T04B53 turbo.

Here's the Callaway manifold. I don't believe you can mount the turbo with the engine in place, and I also don't think you can remove the manifold while it is in the car (It's a PITA out of the car).

With what I have found online, this turbo is comparable to the T04B H trim (possibly S), but seems to be sized quite well for my application at altitude. Pr=1.413 at 5psi and Pr=1.826 at 10psi. Lb/min~ 30.56 and 39.1, respectively.

Here we are putting on the M5 Clutch kit.

I didn't get photos of the oil canister switch. The tapped unit went on the new motor and we switched the rear coolant line connector for the heater core.

Here's some of the hillbilly mechanic work we encountered. Needless to say, I replaced the sway bar end links asap.

Brake bomb replacement since we now have access to it:

Here's how the engine sits ready to go besides the manifold, turbo, down pipe and an ICV. Going with the Bosch E30 T type for an elegant solution. Oil drain hose length to be sized properly once the manifold and turbo is reinstalled.

A friend has the Ireland Engineering sway bar kit, so I am planning to pick that up from him. 25mm front, 19mm rear and then it will be welded up when I am ready. Exactly what I was looking for to make a more track oriented car. That just means I'll need to add camber plates sooner than later!

Thanks for the detail Spasso, I am coming up with how I want to add in the BOV and if a catch can for the oil is really necessary. probably so the IC doesn't get oil coated. For the time being I will leave it, but I'll clean it out thoroughly when I get it back to my place.

Downpipe being made now, and I hope to put the engine in this weekend and have it drivable to get it back to my house.

Here's the nasty coolant that came out of the B32. I'm super surprised it ran and that it didn't overheat when I drove it!

Here's the bad clutch bearing I got with my clutch kit. Glad Mike had a spare on hand when we did that.

The remade downpipe from Bud's Muffler here in Denver. It's a tight slide fit but will use these muffler clamps to get everything together (but maintain disassembly/reassembly). This was prior to trimming either end for fitment.

The new gasket from Central Motive Power here in Denver. This flange seemed to be slightly warped so I'm glad to have used the gasket.

The turbo compared to the stock KKK turbo on the 745i

Added some silicone to the gasket due to the slight warp. Here's the new (metric) SS hardware:

Didn't take a ton of photos getting the turbo cleaned up/degreased, but it is not completely coated now. This was nice during assembly.
The manifold and turbo was very difficult to mount into place, so I am sure the engine had to be out of the car/lifter in order to install the kit. If not, maybe that's why the manifold flange only had 3 bolts on the turbo (and the blown gasket). Regardless after much trial and error, we got 11 of the exhaust manifold nuts into place (12 we couldn't get the wrench on with the turbo in place). It's the upper bolt on cylinder 5, conveniently behind the turbo. Either way having the clamping force of the log manifold on bottom and cylinder 4 and 6, we felt this was the best way to create the seal. That way, the turbo flanges would be super tight and all the other manifold nuts would be as tight as possible.

While we had the space, I replaced the main fuel and return lines. The old ones seemed pliable, but cheap insurance. It turned out the originals were date stamped 11/82, so they were original! They didn't look cracked anywhere though, so I feel better knowing the BMW fuel line is worth the money!

The patient ready for heart transplant surgery!

I waited to hook up the Oil drain line, but here we are putting the engine and transmission in place. You can see we also used the BMW exhaust manifold gaskets. The old Callaway ones lined up to the log manifold, but one had slightly failed. It didn't however, line up properly to the head exhaust ports. The same but opposite was true of the BMW gaskets. We felt having the single piece BMW units would be best, and thee have the integrated heat shields which is a bonus. You can't see it here, but we had to separate #6 since the heat shield was right in the way of the wastegate.

Having the load-leveler was super critical to putting in the engine this way. Getting the engine and transmission in place this way is almost a work of art--- the E28 has a few more critical inches in this section to get the harmonic balancer clear of the nose panel/AC condenser.

Getting the engine on the motor mount was tricky because we can't move the supporting beam in the garage the same way a hoist can roll around forward, back, left, and right. So getting the engine on the drivers side mount took some persuasion, I think it was because of our limited space on the exhaust side of the engine. Finally, though, we got the engine in it's resting place.

Plenty of things we did last night after the motor was in place way hook up the oil drain, mount up the wastegate/downpipe (it was a tight fit!). Swap AC unit in the nose (back to the old style, this new one had the wrong connector), mount power steering pump, hook up C101 connector, install transmission crossmember, assemble shift lever/console and install, install shift linkage, install slave cylinder, install throttle cables, hook up fuel lines, route ECU wiring harness, resplice 02 Sensor cabling, install 02/wideband sensor, clean up glovebox wiring nest, etc, etc
The driveshaft is in and the clutch feels good. Pretty excited to think about how it's going to run.

There's a short list of things to do still, but it is getting shorter:

Started it up last night late around 8:30pm after tracking down no start issue. It ended up being a no spark situation. Checked main relay, speed/reference sensors, power at the coil, ECU etc. Eventually we got it going and it didn't want to idle because of a bad connection at the Coolant temp sensor. The connection here had gone bad with a non-BMW connector. Got that sorted out and the hood back on.

Idle was looking smooth at around ~12.5-13:1 as we added coolant to top off the system. Got it closed up and then put the hood on as it was drizzling. Started up again and nice AFR readings from the gauge, so I took it around the block. In slight acceleration, AFR's at 12:0-12.5:1, excellent. Drove a mile around the block but never really got on it. The turbo spool makes a somewhat loud noise, much more than my brothers 745i. It was rainy and went and my tires are old and somewhat questionable in the weather so I just took it easy.

Took my friend Mike around the block and he's excited to see how the car does. Definitely had some torque come on with a light bit of throttle.
I then drove the car home for the night, about 55 miles, but I took it very easy since it was already 10pm by this point and AFR readings suddenly went lean. Around 15.5:1 and sometimes slightly more. It was a cool wet evening so I decided to drive it home. During driving it was bouncing around quite a bit from 14-16.5:1 while staying steady on the throttle. I stayed out of boost religiously.

Thinking that some of the crappy intake boots went bad and burst without a BOV in place. Next step will be to install the BOV/ diverter along with replace all of the connecting piping hoses. Can't really troubleshoot until I know those connections are good.

Also, after warm up the oil pressure light comes on at idle. I thought this was from a weak pump on the B32, but it is doing the same on the B34. I have read up about restrictors in the oil line, do I need this? After 1000rpm, the light turn outs and oil pressure goes up nicely... The oil supply like is -4AN.

Once I get it running back to when it was when we started it up, I'll continue with front/rear bumper install and then I'll be able to have the rear section of the exhaust finished up. We just used exhaust clamps for a temporary solution until everything can be finalized.

Maybe a few photos later today, unfortunately I won't be working on it this weekend due to a trip to Pagosa Springs for D4C planning.

I was planning to spend some time yesterday evening swapping parts to understand why the car was running lean, however it has been raining the last two days and unfortunately now the car won't start.

I had power at the coil, swapped the main/fuel pump relay, and swapped AFM's, but that was about as far as I got. I am wondering if some moisture got into the cap/rotor, but I won't know until it dries up (rain forecast for the next full week, which is insane for CO). I may try my other 059 ECU tomorrow as that's a pretty easy test.

In between all of this I did replace the fuse of the OBC I, so I did get excited when the display started working, although the functions aren't as intuitive as the 85+ OBC II. I found some useful info on the forum here about how to use it. although I don't think that's the problem, I may disconnect the battery to rule out any code issues that could be caused by my button fiddling.
I added the E30 idle control valve and added a port on the callaway manifold for diverter valve. I was going to route that in once I get the fuelling issue figured out. Here's a photo of the engine currently.

So to feel like I made some progress, I mounted up the front euro bumper/spoiler. At least it looks like it is closer to getting out on the road!

The plan was to unplug to the 02 sensor when I start it and see how the fuel mixture changes. Swapping the AFM with my spare would then tell me if it is operating the same as my known good one. Based on those tests, I was going to assess the condition of the spark plugs and injectors to get the car running properly

Just trying to get it running properly so I can continue on my suspension and other parts waiting to be installed! You can see the sway bars in tis photo.

I have a small update. Getting home and trying the 059ECU with the turbo chip, the car did not want to start. So I pulled out my spare and the car started right away with that. I think the turbo chip ECU is flaky and needs solder joints repaired. But anyway, upon startup, AFR's looked perfect at 14.7 upon idle. Revving also stayed very close to stoich. I decided to drive around the block and to my amazement, everything was looking good. Idle, partial throttle, it was sticking right on 14.7. Note that I changed NOTHING since shutting off the car yesterday besides the ECU. I want to believe this means my coil, plug wires, injectors, etc are all working properly.

About 2 miles down the road, all of the sudden everything went lean. The same hesitation as before, 16+ AFR's and poor drivability.

So when I got home I did some checking. When I unplug and retry the car, it sits right at 14.7 for ~5 seconds until it all the sudden goes lean and idles poorly. I am thinking the Coolant Temp Sensor is bad, and once the coolant warms up, the sensor throws off the mixture. Then, the ECU saves the revised map and it uses this map when I restart the cold engine.

Additionally my o2 sensor cable does not have any power. I need to check the relay, but with a test light, I am getting nothing from the o2 harness plug. Power between the Green/Blue wire and the Brown wire is supplied to the heater. I mention wire colors because mine had been cut at one point. This leaves the green wire for signal. I was attempting to hook the Wideband simulated 0-1volt output to this green wire so I can see exactly what the computer is seeing. Of course at this point it is seeing nothing. I am a little puzzled why the mixture doesn't default to slightly rich in this condition, but I ill check this out once I can confirm the CTS and o2 are operating properly.

Anyway, I'll be testing these items with a meter tonight to understand which may be bad.

After replacing the heater relay, it is running great now. The heater circuit only comes on when the engine is on. I believe the old relay was incorrect, it was some noname brand and there was no power when the engine was running. Getting the o2 sensor plugged in and operating has made a huge difference in the idle and mixture. Now it is returning to 14.5-15 and responding much better to throttle inputs!

You're making great progress! the car sounds really good.
But, if you want to stay on my good side, you need to
have both hands on the wheel in between shifts!!
I know,,who am I? It's just a reminder.
Suppose you get a flat in between
shifts with one hand on the wheel?

Sorry, I just always revert to my old skool racing days.
My hands at ten & two or nine & three.
It's just my quirk. I got plenty of 'em.

So I took apart the ECU causing the no-start issue and found the transistor joints had cracked. After soldering, this ecu fired right up 3 times in sequence last night! I am still carrying the spare so I don't get stranded anywhere. But here's a photo I found on the subject, along with the repair procedure:

I will be swapping the FPR as I think the one in this engine is bad. No change at idle with/without vacuum line hooked up, and the power delivery is not very smooth after 4500rpm (even though AFR's bounce between 11.5-12.5). After I replace this, I may try the BEGI 2025 for fuel control. To do this, I will need a 255lph pump for the flow capability and larger injectors.

The next big project will be swapping shocks and springs between cars. In my head all three of my E28 based cars need a set of shocks/springs from another car, or what I have sitting in the garage.

Here are a few other random photos from the swap last month.
pulling out the donor

The assembled Callaway setup (hillbilly special wood block not shown)

Installing the new engine:

So another update.

I have been in discussions with Ken H. (Lucifer's Hammer) and he was kind enough to spend some time digging for me. Based on the specs/part number on the turbo he was able to determine that the turbo in this car is a T04B S-4. I had assumed based on some posts by a member here, that it was S trim, and that the generic turbo map I found was correct. Well it is not correct. Further research (big kudos Ken) shows that this is the correct compressor map.

Unfortunately with the higher altitude and larger displacement of the B34, this moves the map further into choke. At ~485cfm and 1.8 pressure ratio, it's sitting outside the 60% island Well, unfortunately I'm gong to have to change turbo's when I want to actually drive this thing. It sucks because the manifold is a PIA, but I will figure it out when I come to that.

But anyway, onward with progress. Late last week, after work I spent the evening replacing the water pump. Since the swap, there had been a leak from around the water pump area--dripping off the oil pan. From all my research this indicated water pump. The shaft didn't have much play but I figured I ought to replace it. So after swapping the front control arm off my 535i (it didn't solve my clunking so I'll have to resolve that later), I started on the 633. Good news, it was pretty straight forward and I was able to get the old one out. I think the gasket may have failed, causing a slow leak. Got the mating surface nice and smooth and put the new one in. From my research on here, I went with the Saleri brand. I buttoned it up and was able to get it all back together. Good news, no more leak.

I replaced the coolant temp sender, but still not getting anything. I think it's bad wiring because everything was working before, and ground the sender doesn't move the gauge. I didn't want to have to track this down, but oh well. Will follow the repair procedure: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=34049

I drove it around the block again and still no leaks. However, with the new knowledge about the turbo size, everything made sense. The engine runs out of steam after ~4500rpm, I believe because of compressor choke. Also, the manifold and turbo seem very hot, even for 65 degree weather, which makes sense for the condition. Also, it makes sense because a very similarly sized turbo was put on all of the other Callaway models-- the M10 and other 4 cylinder VW's that Callaway modified in the early 80's. So down the road I am definitely changing the turbo, but I currently don't have the funds for it, and probably won't until next year when I got on top of my other projects.

So over the weekend I was able to do a few more items. I got some rotors in the mail and calipers from my brothers old parts car. So I installed E34 rear rotors and the calipers. Pretty excited about this as I have them on my M5. The fronts, however, will have to be rebuilt, and I will need to get rotors still.

I didn't drive it around yet because I also started on the heater core replacement (remember our mistake when pulling the engine??). Well I tore into it Saturday and spent a couple of hours on it until I stopped at my brothers house. I continued working on it yesterday for 4 hours or so. Lots of removing of parts, but I wasn't taking pictures as I really wanted to get the job done. The toughest part is getting all of the vent out of place, removing all the AC bits, and then pulling out the heater box. It took me a while to understand that there were 4 nuts/bolts holding the heater box in place. Once loose, it took another 15 minutes to get it situated on the passenger floor for core replacement. I'm glad I got it removed because I found a little friend and his home inside the box. No photos, but there were nuts, insulation, leaves and other misc stuff.
I'm pretty glad to have changed it for this reason.

Old and new.

I figured the heater didn't work well because of the heater valve, but I didn't really drive the car enough in the cold to know for sure. The valve looked pretty good (except for the brown crud in the filter), but I replaced it with a new one anyway. Now I know the heater didn't work because the heater box didn't ever get enough airflow to actually transfer heat to the cabin. So for the time being I have to finish putting the center console back in, along with the glove box and driver's kick panel. It has been a good opportunity to clean out the dirt and trash, along with getting the wiring cleaned up underneath the dash. Still have a ways to go, but I'm getting closer.