1. Heat 3 tablespoons butter in large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, carrot, and celery and sauté until softened but not browned, about 6 minutes. Add ground meat and ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon fresh ground pepper, crumble meat into tiny pieces with edge of wooden spoon. Cook, continuing to crumble meat, just until it loses its raw color but has not yet browned, about 5 minutes.

2. Add milk and bring to a simmer; continue to simmer until milk evaporates and only clear fat remains, 10 to 15 minutes. Add wine and bring to a simmer; continue to simmer until wine evaporates, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Add tomatoes and their juice, Italian seasoning and oregano. Bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low so that sauce continues to simmer just barely, about 15 minutes. You can simmer longer (from 15 minutes up to one hour) if desired. Adjust seasonings with extra salt to taste. Keep sauce warm. (The sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for several days or frozen for several months. Warm over low heat before serving.)