Chevrolet Corvette Maintenance - Corvette Weekend Projects 2009

Isn't it about time to head out to the garage and get your hands dirty?

Hopefully, you've all thawed out successfully and are itching to roll up your sleeves and start working on your Corvettes--I know I certainly am!

To borrow the motto of the Boy Scouts of America, "be prepared," which translates to having some essential items ready for use before you begin working on your Vette. These are what I consider to be essentials: disposable nitrile gloves to keep your meat-hooks clean; WD-40 for penetrating rusted fasteners, cleaning paint off your hands, and a plethora of other uses; aerosol carb and choke cleaner for dissolving and removing grease and engine muck; a razor-blade scraper and a utility knife; a workbench; and a stool or bench on which to sit. A good torque wrench is also mandatory equipment if you're doing any projects that require specific torque for the bolts, such as heads and intake manifolds.

If you'll be doing any projects where elevating your Corvette is involved, you'll need a good hydraulic trolley jack, wheel chocks, a pair of sturdy jackstands, and a creeper or mat for your back. You'll also need a basic arsenal of tools that has a good assortment of screwdrivers, nut drivers, wrenches, sockets, and ratchets. The tools will be ASA standard if you're working on C1, C2, or C3 Corvettes and metric standard for C4s, C5s, and C6s.

Service, shop, and/or assembly manuals are always good to have on hand for your particular year/model Corvette(s); they contain pertinent data such as fluid capacities, electrical measurements, torque specs, and so forth. The best ones are the actual factory service manuals produced by GM and used by Chevrolet service technicians; however, Chilton, Motorbooks, and other publishers also publish excellent service manuals as well.

You'll do your best work and be most efficient if you wear comfortable clothing; perhaps have the radio, CD, player or iPod on to give you some pleasant tunes; and have bottled water or other soft drinks available to quench your thirst.

Lastly, always work safely, because it's no fun to get cut, bruised, burned, or sustain any other injuries while working on your Corvette. Make sure you have plenty of time to complete any project you start, since rushing things invariably leads to carelessness and accidents; the old adage "haste makes waste" is a true one. I know it's been said before, but safety is no accident--literally!

Wrap-UpWell, that should keep you out of trouble for a while. Hope you have fun doing these projects--see you next year, same time, same issue, with a bunch of new Corvette weekend projects.

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Chevrolet Corvette Maintenance - Corvette Weekend Projects 2009

As always when working on your Corvette's electrical components, disconnect the negative lead from the battery first to prevent any potential shocks or component damage. Then disconnect the positive and ground wires from the alternator, and pull the harness clip off as well.

Remove the upper bolt that holds the alternator in place on the bracket, and push the alternator toward the engine so you have enough slack to remove the belt from the alternator pulley.

My alternator mounting brackets were in pretty sorry shape, so I decided to remove them. Use a socket to remove the two bolts that hold the lower bracket to the engine block. When these are out you can remove the alternator with the lower bracket attached.

On the workbench, remove the long pivot bolt that holds the alternator to the bracket, and then use a flat-blade screwdriver or a small prybar to persuade the bracket off the alternator.

Rub the alternator vigorously with a wire brush or some coarse steel wool to remove the oxidation and restore the patina to the cast aluminum.

Use a small magnet to pick up any stray wire-brush bristles or steel-wool particles that may be sticking to the alternator to prevent them from entering the inside of the unit. These will already be sticking to any ferrous parts of the alternator (e.g., pulley fan, housing bolts) since they're already magnetized.

Inspect the alternator, and use the brush or steel wool to touch up any spots you missed. If you're going to do it, then do it right.

Use the wire brush and/or steel wool to remove any loose rust on the brackets before giving them a couple coats of black paint. I like Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator black for such jobs, since it acts as a primer, rust inhibitor, and finish coat all in one.

Again, it makes no sense to use rusty hardware to mount nicely cleaned and freshly painted parts, so I used stainless fasteners.

Bolt the alternator back onto the bracket and then bolt the bracket onto the block (alternatively, you may find it easier to bolt the bracket to the block first, then attach the alternator to it; do whichever is easier for you). Bolt the top alternator bracket to the block, then slip the belt over the alternator pulley and use a prybar to put tension on it while you tighten the top alternator bolt onto the bracket. I used a broomstick under my armpit to add tension while both hands were occupied tightening the top bolt. Think outside the box.

Here's the completed alternator and brackets looking all nice and spiffy. All that remains to be done is to reattach the clip, wires and reconnect the battery cable--then the rest of the engine bay needs my attention.

Some call it subtle, some term it as understated, others say it's stealth--whatever! I thought a little more bling on the rear fascia wouldn't hurt, so I ordered a set of stainless steel letters from Mid America Motorworks.

The first thing to do is wipe down the area where the letters will be applied to remove any loose dirt and dust; a shop cloth or soft towel does the job nicely.

Surface prep continues by swabbing down the area with the supplied alcohol wipe. This ensures there's no oil or grease on the surface to impede the adhesion of the letters.

Peel off the letters and gently place them in position on the rear of your Corvette. Take your time and make sure you position them well.

When you're satisfied with their positioning, press them firmly in place. That's all there is to it.

Since the rear of your Corvette is the view most other drivers will probably see, you'll have a little something shiny for them to look at as you go zipping past them.

Installation starts with removing each of the three front 10mm bolts that hold the inner fenderwell panel in place and replacing them with the supplied snaps and Phillips screws. Having the wheels turned makes accessing these much easier.

Once all the snaps are secured in place with the screws, position the mast on the front of the car. Begin attaching it with the snaps, starting at the bottom and working your way up on each side, stretching the mask as required for a taut fit to secure it.

Here's what it looks like when installed. These masks are a great way to preserve your paint, give the car some extra nose protection, as well a more aggressive, no-nonsense look.

The hydraulic hood struts on the C5 eventually need replacement. Whether you go with stock black units or shiny stainless struts, it's a simple procedure that doesn't take long to do.

By simply prying them with a flat-blade screwdriver, the struts simply pop off their retainers at both ends. Installing the new ones is also just a matter of popping them onto the retainers by giving them a shot with the heel of your hand.

The stainless replacement struts give you the same functionality as the stock units along with a little extra underhood eye candy to boot.

The components of the rocker-molding mount repair kit are shown here. The brass insert is secured to the rocker with the nut, and the black screw holds the molding on by threading it into the insert.

The first step is to remove any screws that are holding the molding in place and then remove the molding itself.

If you have aftermarket side exhausts, loosening the mounts makes more working room available. It's not necessary to remove the exhausts entirely, however, since loosening the mounting bolts will gain you a couple of additional inches for access.

As you can see here, one of the original mounting screws has rusted into the chassis rail under the rocker panel; the head is off the screw, and it was painted over rather than extracted and replaced by a previous owner. This stump will have to be removed.

After removing any remaining screws or stumps, use a 3/8-inch bit to drill (and enlarge) the original mounting holes in the rocker panel. Push the brass inserts into them, and secure them from the rear of the rocker panel with the supplied nuts. Be careful not to overtighten them, as the brass is soft and will shear in half if you do.

It became clear why this repair hadn't been done before when I tried unsuccessfully to remove the screw stump using a pair of Vise-Grips, which only succeeded in nibbling away at the stump. A Dremel with a stone-grinding bit was used to grind it flush; then the remainder of the stump was drilled out.

Here's the rocker panel with the new inserts installed, ready for the sidepipes to be secured prior to installing the molding. Repeat these procedures on the opposite side of the car, and you're done.

Unsnap the wiring harness that supplies power to the wiper motor. The wiper motor is secured to the firewall with three nuts on studs. Use a 3/8-inch socket to remove these nuts, being careful not to let them drop down into the engine compartment.

The nut and washer retaining the bellcrank arm in the wiper compartment is removed next. Gently moving the bellcrank arm back and forth will free it from the wiper-motor shaft.

The new wiper motor didn't come with a gearbox cover, mounting grommets, or the nut for retaining the bellcrank arm, so these components were swapped out from the old unit to the new one.

Slip the supplied new wiper-motor seal over the shaft of the motor and reinstall it on the firewall, passing the shaft through the hole until the seal is firmly pressed to the both the firewall and the motor. Secure it with the three retaining nuts and tighten them.

The bellcrank arm is keyed so it will only go on the shaft in the correct orientation. Wiggling it back and forth helps seat it on the shaft.

The retaining nut and washer are installed on the shaft next and tightened. I used a chrome acorn nut to dress up the bellcrank a bit. Snap the wiring harness on the motor, and you're done. Oh, yeah--clean out any leaves or other debris in the area while you're at it.