Creating dreams, one stitch at a time: San Francisco bridal designers get together and share only some of their secrets. Left right: Suzanne Hanley, Christina Hurvis, Amy Kuschel and Jin Wang. All designers are wearing their own clothes, except for Hurvis' tiered miniskirt, by Twinkle, $278, Macy's. Gown: Italian silk duchess satin, with hand-pleated silk organza back inset, double-pleated hem and organza pleating the bodice, $4,200, by Jin Wang, at Jin Wang; two carved, mother-of-pearl headpieces by Denise Hetterman, $150 and $300, both Atelier des Modistes. Photo by Erik Almas

Dorothy wasn't referring to her wedding dress, of course, but allowing for poetic license, we'll take the sentiment and apply it to the Bay Area's bridal gown cottage industry.

There are many talented wedding gown designers right here who do superb work, using the finest fabrics. The biggest advantage, of course, is that each one is in her atelier ready to meet, consult and help you find the gown of your dreams. Just try getting an appointment with someone like Vera Wang anytime soon.

In this issue, we've selected four San Francisco bridal gown designers --

Wang and Hanley are self-taught seamstresses; Kuschel and Hurvis have had formal fashion training, the latter having worked with big names like Jean Paul Gaultier and Oscar de la Renta.

All but Kuschel create custom-made couture gowns -- that is, gowns made from scratch, starting with a sketch and a muslin prototype. Kuschel makes what are known as made-to-measure gowns; the bride chooses a style from Kuschel's racks, and a new dress is made to fit.

The designers each found their niche in bridal wear after years of working in the fashion business. Yes, they are competitors, and so some of their secrets will stay that way -- like which fabric mills they use for their silks and laces.

For a bride, the choice of a wedding gown designer is as subjective and intuitive as finding Mr. Right. It all comes down to chemistry.

There are some brides who are going to love spending time in Hurvis' urban, live-work loft on a South of Market side street; others will be drawn to Kushel's or Wang's more traditional, feminine downtown studios with their blond wood floors and soft, natural light; some will take to the art gallery- atelier ambiance of Hanley's cozy Russian Hill shop.

In any case, there are plenty of gown choices, from asymmetrically draped satins to slinky silks, beaded corsets and skirts.

Wedding gown trends move rather slowly, but a few stand out this season. Old Hollywood glam, in the form of skin-skimming satin, is a trend this year; another is the tea-length, '50s-style skirt. The backs of gowns are becoming as important as the front, say the designers. That could mean a lace-up corset, a multiple bustle, a series of flower pins or a shorter but fuller, rounder train.

Still, tradition prevails. Ivory or white silk satin is still the most popular fabric for most brides, the designers say, as is a strapless bodice.

Beyond that, the choices are nearly impossible to pin down, but we've selected a few gorgeous gowns on these pages for inspiration.

"To be able to make someone's wedding dress, to be a part of that day, we become like the family jeweler, a part of the family," Wang says. "The brides come back to visit, with their babies; it's a real bond," says Hurvis.

Studio: Urban art gallery meets bridal salon. In this small, narrow space, only 1,000 square feet, Hanley manages to show off not only her gowns, but the whimsical metal flower sculptures and paintings by her husband, Christopher Farris. She carries a wide variety of bridal and nonbridal jewelry, much of it by local designers, as well as day and evening purses, headpieces, flower girl dresses and men's ties.

In addition to her gowns, Hanley carries affordable silk lingerie by San Francisco designer Mary Green, as well as a few handcrafted jackets, skirts and suits from her own nonbridal, ready-to-wear line.

Background: Self-taught. Hanley first began to sew when she was 6; she studied mechanical engineering in college. She switched to fashion in 1986 with a ready-to-wear line, and went into bridal design about 12 years ago.

Signature gown: Two-piece ivory silk duchess satin corset bodice with a lavish, lace-up back and an A-line skirt; $3,950 for both pieces. "With two pieces like this, the bride can wear the corset top again; many of my customers wear them with jeans."

Most unusual fabric: "One that hasn't come in yet," Hanley says. "It's a woven metal silk duchess satin from Italy with a high-gloss sheen that's due in early March."

The essentials: Hanley offers couture, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear bridal gowns. Seven to eight fittings are required for couture gowns, with six to eight months for delivery. Three to four fittings for made-to-measure; six to eight months for delivery. Alterations are included for couture; additional for made-to-measure.

Studio: 4,000-square-foot South of Market live-work space with antique kimonos on the walls, a cozy couch and her design studio in the back.

Background: Formal French couture training at Parsons in Paris as well as technical school, Centre de Formation des Modelestes; and stints with Oscar de la Renta at Balmain; Jean Paul Gaultier and Gianfranco Ferre, at Dior; and a year in New York with Nicole Miller. Started her couture evening gown and bridal business in New York in 1996 and relocated to San Francisco two years ago.

Signature gown: Bias-cut, old-Hollywood-style silk satin gown with a halter top and minimal embellishment, about $3,000. "I get all my silks and satins from the same mill in Asia; all my laces are made in France."

Most unusual fabric: Custom-made French laces with embellished sequins and pearls.

The essentials: Couture only. Six fittings required, starting with a muslin prototype. Four to six months for delivery. Alterations included.

Studio: Pretty, feminine, light and airy 3,000-square-foot salon with blond wood floor and four large dressing rooms. Production workshop on the premises; patterns are cut and gowns are made by hand by a staff of six. Kuschel also carries jewelry, bags and headpieces.

Background: Fashion Institute of Technology graduate; designed dresses and sportswear for 12 years for various ready-to-wear labels here and in New York. Opened her bridal business four years ago.

Signature gown: Contemporary and classic gown, made of Italian silk, with a strapless bodice, an A-line skirt and minimal embellishment, about $2,000.

Most unusual fabric: Double-layered English tulle with silk chiffon petals and silk organza flowers woven in between the layers. "We've just started using it; it's dramatic, romantic and very light."

The essentials: Made-to-measure. Two to four fittings required; five to six months for delivery. Alterations included.

Studio: Pretty, feminine, blond-wood salon of about 2,000 square feet, two dressing rooms, with a variety of jewelry, bags, headpiece and shoes for sale, as well as a small selection of flower girl and bridesmaid dresses. Wang also carries ready-to-wear bridal gowns from seven other designers, including Angel Sanchez and Amy Michelson.

Background: Worked in the apparel industry for more than 20 years, including stints with the Gap, Levi's and I. Magnin. Self-taught seamstress; sewing since she was 4; has been in the bridal business for seven years.

Most unusual fabric: "I can't wait for this new blended silk taffeta from Italy with a stretch to come in; it should be here in the spring," Wang says. "A little bit of stretch is a great thing."

The essentials: Couture (Jin Wang Collection); and ready-to-wear (other designers). Three to four fittings, including a muslin prototype for the Collection gowns; two fittings for ready-to-wear. Four to eight months delivery for couture gowns; two to six months for ready-to-wear. Alterations additional for both lines.

Headlands Center for the Arts is an international, interdisciplinary artist residency program located in the coastal hills of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area just north of San Francisco. The center also offers rental space for weddings, conferences and retreats. For information, visit www.headlands.org.

Photos

(1) Creating dreams, one stitch at a time: San Francisco bridal designers get together and share only some of their secrets. Left right: Suzanne Hanley, Christina Hurvis, Amy Kuschel and Jin Wang. All designers are wearing their own clothes, except for Hurvis' tiered miniskirt, by Twinkle, $278, Macy's. Gown: Italian silk duchess satin, with hand-pleated silk organza back inset, double-pleated hem and organza pleating the bodice, $4,200, by Jin Wang, at Jin Wang; two carved, mother-of-pearl headpieces by Denise Hetterman, $150 and $300, both Atelier des Modistes.

(6) Gathering her thoughts in this double-face silk satin halter-style gown with trumpet skirt, $2,160, by Amy Kuschel, at Amy Kushel, diamond choker, $172,000, and diamond and white-gold earrings, $33,700, both at Boucheron. (Also seen on cover.)

Photography: Erik Almas

Wardrobe styling: Leka Dobbs

Assistant styling: Tatiana Saunders

Hair and makeup: Sherrie Long, Artistuntied.com

Assistant: Michelle Talley, Artistuntied.com

Models: Ashleah O'Shea, Gina Klein, Look Model Agency, S.F.

Shot on location at the Headlands Center the Arts, Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Sausalito.