Found while rummaging through the older wines section at K&L in San Francisco, at a no-brainer price of $20.

Surprisingly dark purple color, kind of murky (no sediment, though). Very pleasant cedar nose with nuanced black currant and blackberry flavors, a little thin in body (12.8% alcohol!). I would not have guessed that it was almost 20 years old; if not for some (quickly-evaporating, for now) VA it might go another ten.