Escape the Marina crowds by dipping into this Southern-influenced restaurant on the edge of the Presidio. The sprawling spot from Joseph Humphrey and Khalid Lahlou is best enjoyed as an evening starter or nightcap, so park yourself at the bar to enjoy a cocktail or two.

The vibe: Buzzing on a busy night and oddly quiet on a slow one. The main dining room can feel cavernous and corporate due to its banquette seating and color scheme.

The crowd: All over the map. We've seen everyone from businessmen to old friends to gym-goers - decked out in workout gear - pull up at the bar.

Best seat: Stick to the bar and lounge area. The crescent-shaped bar seats about a dozen, and the adjacent lounge enjoys fantastic views through its floor-to-ceiling windows. On those rare warm nights, though, head outdoors.

Killer app: The humble deviled eggs ($7) are among the best we've had, creamy and tangy and crunchy, thanks to the nugget of fried chicken liver on top. We're also smitten with the oyster trio ($10): one raw, one fried and one smoked. Do not attempt to share - get your own platter, then debate over which preparation tickled your fancy the most. For something heavier, try the chicken-fried quail ($15).

Signature drink: Dive into the massive whiskey selection if you must, but don't shy away from the cocktails. The Apple Bottom ($14) with Rusty Blade barrel-aged gin, fresh Fuji apple juice, lemon, honey and lime bitters, was a refreshing start - not too sweet and even a little tart. Meanwhile, the darker Preakness ($10), featuring Ballantine's Scotch, black tea tincture, Benedictine and Angostura bitters, should appeal to the brown-liquor crowd.

Also on tap: More than a dozen wines by the glass, and more than two pages of whiskey options, including one dedicated to bourbon and rye.

Bonus: Fairly easy parking. There are free spots along Lyon Street, as well as an underground paid parking garage. Drive through the Lombard gate, turn right onto Letterman Drive and pass through the security post.