The author reaping the benefits of a decent belay parka, about to begin a frigid belay stint in the Cairngorms, Scotland.

Belay Jackets and Belay Parkas…what are they and who are they for? What makes a good one and why do we need one? Well picture this…

You’re three pitches up and lashed to the crag, the wind is howling, impregnating your clothing with damp snowflakes. From above, constant avalanches of spindrift pummel your back, head and shoulders. You’ve been here a while now, your partner is doing battle with the pitch, approaching the second hour as he battles with the technicalities. You’ve been stood still, but rather than being a frozen lump, you’re warm and still reasonably comfortable. Do you want to know how? Then read on…

Belaying in weather like this requires a decent belay parka!

Winter climbing involves extended periods of high exertion where your body gets hot, sweaty and damp. This is usually followed by equally long periods where you are stood around in the cold, belaying. Choosing a clothing system to cope with this can be tricky, you don’t want to wear too much whilst climbing because you will overheat, but then when you stop the moisture from your body will cool you down more quickly too, causing you to be cold and uncomfortable during your belaying stint.

So what is the solution?

I’ve tried out many different systems and configurations of clothing for my winter climbing exploits over the years. I now climb in a few thin layers with a weatherproof shell layer over the top. This generally consists of:

Top: midweight base layer, another insulation layer such as a powerstretch top, over the top of this I wear a weatherproof and lightly insulated softshell jacket with a big helmet-friendly hood.

I rarely use a hardshell (fully waterproof shell system) for winter climbing, even in Scotland as I’ve found that modern softshells are generally weatherproof enough to combat the dampness, and the breathability and flexibility more than outweigh the cons here. This of course, is a subjective choice as I feel I can cope with the damp in return for the flexibility that softshells offer. However we have other reviewers that like to climb in hardshells – it’s all a matter of choice.

So, this clothing system is what Mark Twight dubbed, in his book Extreme Alpinism, “the lightweight flexible action suit.” It is warm enough for when I’m stood around for short periods, such as map reading, drink stops etc, but flexible and breathable enough that I don’t overheat when I’m climbing. I prefer to set off on a day feeling slightly cold and letting the movement help to warm me up. However, when stood around for longer periods, for example belaying, my “action suit” just isn’t enough. This is where the belay jacket comes in.

What is a belay jacket?

For the purposes of this article I’m going to refer to 2 different types of belay jacket. The lightweight variety, usually a simple jacket or even pullover, which may or may not have a hood and featuring 60 to 80 grams of synthetic filling. Good examples of products that fall into this bracket can be found at the end of this article.

The author using a lightweight belay jacket during a brief stop on the North Face of Les Droites, Chamonix, France.

The other type is the belay parka, a fully featured and heavier piece which offers more warmth and protection and would usually feature 100 to 200 grams of synthetic insulation. Again, good examples can be found at the bottom of this article.

A full on belay parka is warm and seals out the elements.

The lightweight examples are great for those quicker moving missions where stops are shorter and less frequent whereas the parka is better suited to more technical climbs where longer belay stints are required or you may need to bivi.

Regardless of which one you go for you need to make sure it is sized sufficiently to fit over the top of the “lightweight flexible action suit.” Insulation in these jackets can be from down (fine in cold dry climates) and many companies are making hybrid down/synthetic jackets as well as the new hydrophobic down products, but from my experience of climbing in the UK in winter, a modern synthetic equivalent such as Primaloft, is the best choice as it retains its insulating properties, even when wet. Many manufacturers are now beginning to develop and use their own insulating material and these can perform as well as the major branded versions.

So, for the purposes of this article I am going to concentrate on synthetic belay jackets as these are the ones you would want to choose for UK or damp climbing conditions.

Many companies make and market products, which they call belay jackets and like anything, some are better than others. There are however, certain key things to consider when you are looking for a belay jacket.

Is it big enough to go over the top of your other layers?

The jacket should be big enough to go over the top of everything you are wearing. The hood should comfortably fit over the top of your climbing helmet. This is extremely important so I’d go as far as trying the jacket on in the shop, whilst wearing a helmet! A longer cut at the back to insulate your glutes, is also desirable.

Does the jacket have a 2 way zipper?

Whilst not as important in the lightweight versions, a proper belay parka needs a 2 way zipper and it’s amazing the number of products that are marketed for this purpose, that don’t have one. A good belay parka benefits from a slightly longer cut, particularly at the back and the addition of a 2 way zipper means that the jacket doesn’t have to be rolled up for you to be able to access the belay loop on your climbing harness. You simply unzip the zip a short way from the bottom.

Does it have big handwarmer pockets?

A good belay parka will hopefully have a pair of deep zippered handwarmer pockets. These should be large enough so that you can fit your gloved hands inside.

Other pockets?

I like my belay parka to have a chest pocket with zippered access, so that I can stash sweets, gels and other necessities in there. This pocket may allow you to stash the jacket inside so you can clip it to your harness whilst climbing but I prefer to use a small stuff sack and many proper belay parkas, already come with these provided.

For me, stretchy mesh internal pockets are a must too as these allow you to store and dry spare gloves etc. Another smaller, zippered internal pocket is handy for stashing valuables but not crucial.

In the lightweight jacket, many of these pockets are not necessary. Although I still like mine to feature zippered handwarmer pockets.

Any other features?

Adjustable cuffs, drawcords on hems and hoods and also hood volume adjusters are a must for me on a parka. As is a neck, that zips high enough to cover my mouth. Glove friendly zippers are a pre requisite, whether it be a lightweight jacket or a parka.

Outer and inner fabrics?

Outer and inner fabrics should ideally be windproof and water resistant, but they don’t need to be waterproof. The fabric should be lightweight and ripstop with a full on belay parka not weighing more than 700 or 800 grams.

How warm?

Warmth is very subjective and depends a lot on the wearer, but generally the more filling the jacket or parka has, the warmer it will be. The warmest belay parkas tend to be filled with 200g of synthetic insulation and should keep most people toasty warm on an average winter’s day in Scotland.

What’s on the market this winter?

We’ve picked some of the top belay jackets and parkas on offer this winter…

Lightweight Jackets

Windproof and water-resistant, the full-zip Nano Puff® Jacket is made with warm, incredibly lightweight, highly compressible 60-g PrimaLoft® ONE insulation, and is ideal as an insulating layer or outerwear in cold climates.

CGR says: “Lightweight and compressible, a sexy and simple piece of insulation with all the quality you’d expect from Arc’teryx. Love the internal stuff sack. Jury is still out on the under the helmet hood.”

Designed to provide phenomenal warmth, the revolutionary ThermoBall™ replicates the insulation and compressibility of down but also dries rapidly and keeps warm when wet. Inner and outer fabrics are 100% nylon (bluesign® approved) with a durable water repellent finish.

Our award-winning Isotherm Hoody is evolution at its best. Ideal for active insulation – necessary for ice climbing or backcountry skiing – the state-of-the-art Polartec® Alpha® insulation cuts the need for impervious fabric faces. Rather, we used an abrasion-resistant Pertex Quantum face and lined the hoody with hyper breathable mesh. Reinforced softshell shoulders, an attached hood and a free-moving fit – it’s a new species of light, warm of breathable.

Features

20 Denier Pertex Quantum Fabric

Softshell Shoulder Reinforcement

Polartec® Alpha® Insulation

Attached Hood with Peripheral Cord Adjustment

Zip Chest Pocket

Zip Hand Pockets

Elastic Bound Cuffs

DriClime® Mesh Lining

Elastic Draw Cord Hem – For Adjustability in Serious Weather

Angel-Wing Movement™ – Allows Full Range of Motion in Arms so Jacket Doesn’t Ride Up

CGR says: ” Very light and using innovative Polartec Alpha technology we like this one for fast moving pursuits in the mountains.”

A very packable, lightweight wind resistant hooded synthetic insulated jacket. With the new Quad Fusion+ insulation material made from 100% recycled Polyester, which allows moisture to be drawn away from the body. The hood has a reinforced peak, and is 3 way adjustable. 2 mid mounted torso pockets, and one chest pocket. Includes a stuff sac.

Features

PFOS/PFOA free DWR treated surfaces

Reinforced shoulder and sleeves made from a 30D fabric

Three-way adjustable hood with reinforced peak

Hip length cut for more core warmth

Full length, Two-way front zipper with chin guard

Two spacious chest pockets

Two zippered mid mounted torso pockets

Elasticated cuffs

Integrated single hand hem draw cord

Articulated sleeves

Rear hanging loop

Stuff sack included

CGR says: “A great jacket from Haglofs. We love the simplicity, cut and warmth to weight ratio. Perfect for Scottish winter climbing.”

CGR says: “Another great piece of kit from French company, Millet. A perfect package for frigid belays on Scottish mixed routes. Everything you need.”

Most of the above are available in Male and Female options. Look out for reviews of many of these featured jackets over the coming winter.

Why not receive our latest reviews and gear news via your inbox by following out blog: perfect for all gear freaks! Just sign up via the home page link in the sidebar. We never keep an email list (too much hassle – we’re out climbing) and we would never, ever pass your email address on to someone else (no, no, no that would be very unethical).