In the shape of Rozbrat 20, Warsaw has a gift that keeps on giving; truly, no matter how many trips you make, it’s just gets better with each visit.

As a restaurant, it’s a model for all to follow: they’ve got the intuitive service; a modern design that’s easily understood; a wine list of note; and sensible price points that are never extreme. Most of all, however, they’ve got Bartosz Szymczak.

A former protégé of Tom Aikens, no ceiling can contain this chef’s outrageous talent. Defined by its playful inventiveness and walloping tastes, his food is a harmonious hymn to his exceptional skill.

Criticisms? None. Need to know? Go there. There are many who call this Warsaw’s best restaurant, and being here, you fully understand their argument.