The white scheme needs a color change on the bottom of the wings. Wings are white top and bottom. Get some yellow trim sheets or something of the kind so you can do a bar pattern on the wing bottom. And yes, the horiz stab bolts are too short. You will also want to fashion some kind of padded travel cradle for the fuse.

If it's the 3,5m version then as stated the recommended CG is pretty much spot on in the aft part of the range. This model will thermal with the best of them and is a pleasure to fly, keep it light! I have mine kitted all out with bone stock standard Hitec servos. No switch, just a micro deans plug on a lead into rx. I use a small 800mah 2S Life battery so I can fit it anywhere and focussed on getting the lead required properly moulded into a pellet that fits right up into the nose, get the weight as forward possible rather than trying to work your way around a battery up there. If done this way you'll need about 750~800grams of lead in the nose with a small slot to accept the tow rope tunnel, if memory serves (Sorry been flying it quite a while now).

Handle the aeroplane with respect! It's not meant to be flown hard at all. High speed at high altitude and a blip of elevator and you will fly the wings off this one (We found out the hard way).

Lastly, we simply deflect the ailerons up (reflex) as much as possible proportionally on the throttle stick for brakes. Works very very well to slow down for the landings if a bit hot.

If it's the 3,5m version then as stated the recommended CG is pretty much spot on in the aft part of the range. This model will thermal with the best of them and is a pleasure to fly, keep it light! I have mine kitted all out with bone stock standard Hitec servos. No switch, just a micro deans plug on a lead into rx. I use a small 800mah 2S Life battery so I can fit it anywhere and focussed on getting the lead required properly moulded into a pellet that fits right up into the nose, get the weight as forward possible rather than trying to work your way around a battery up there. If done this way you'll need about 750~800grams of lead in the nose with a small slot to accept the tow rope tunnel, if memory serves (Sorry been flying it quite a while now).

Handle the aeroplane with respect! It's not meant to be flown hard at all. High speed at high altitude and a blip of elevator and you will fly the wings off this one (We found out the hard way).

Lastly, we simply deflect the ailerons up (reflex) as much as possible proportionally on the throttle stick for brakes. Works very very well to slow down for the landings if a bit hot.

Thanks for the great tips. I will have one of these on order in 2 weeks after I get paid. My salto is cool but hard to see.

Hi joe,l have the centre of gravity at the recommended centre of gravity-being 60mm.The instructions have a 10mm margin fore and aft of 60mm.As far as servos go,just use two standard servos (HS 422 deluxe) in the cockpit for rudder and elevator control,and trim the servo tray by a couple of millimetres to fit them.I used HS 82 MG for the ailerons.I also fitted 250mm electric spoilers.I have flown mine off the slope,over 20 flights now,and it could do with a ballast box located in the fuse at the centre of gravity,but if you are only going to aerotow it,a ballast box would obviously not be required.Overall,its a good value for money model,and i enjoy flying it,regards damian

Thanks damian. I appreciate it. I can't wait to get this bird and start flying it.

Spacey, what radio are you using to mix throttle with up ailerons for airbrakes? I have Aurora 9 and spektrum 8, 7 and 6. Thanks

Unfortunately not very familier with either of your transmitters but as stated they should have the ability to do the reflex sure.

Both my 11X and XG8 JR's have brake menus for the gliders where I activate the mixes. The top half of the throttle (half thr to full thr) I have the ailerons neutral and then from midstick down I usually program an audible beep to let me know the brakes are coming in and then let the reflex come in little by little to full up at low throttle/idle. So when flying around I keep the throttle stick somewhere in the top half of the range and all's well, no brakes.

You should have the option to write a programmable curve mix to mix throttle/brake/spoiler stick to flaperon (Which normally refers to the ailerons moving together in a flap/reflex motion).

Hi Guys,
I am just about done with my KA-8. just waiting for the 18 and 36 inch extensions to come then I will start glide testing. one field is shut down do to the fair and the other is working on getting a new flying area. It looks like early September is when I can maiden this beautiful glider. I am running ds 821 for r/e and hitec hs 82 mg for flaps and spoilers.

Don't know what kind of suggestions you want? Look at the manual and follow it.
If you can't reverse one of the servos, the spoiler hatch can accomodate both servos mounted in the same directions so both spoilers go up on command.
Granted, the geometry of the spoiler control horn in relation to the servo and push rod doesn't give much advantage to the servo. At full up deflection, you can push on the spoiler and the servo will give quite a bit. Don't know how much pressure is exerted on the spoiler by the airspeed...........the spoilers aren't that big. I've considered using digital servos for the spoilers......they wont give in to spoiler pressure as easily as analog servos.
The control rod linkage to the servos is fiddly........takes a lot of fiddling with the linkage to get the right length so the spoilers lay flat.
Aftermarket spoilers would be a plus if you want to spend the money and take the time to mount them in the wing.
I figure I'll give the stock spoilers a go before I decide to go another route.

I prefer to set up hinged spoilers without linkages. Just mount the servo so that it's as close to the surface as necessary and use the servo arm to open the spoiler. A rubber band or the right kind of elastic alternative serves to close the door and keep it tight against the servo arm in all positions. The method is good enough for competition 3+meter sailplanes so I'd feel more than safe using it on a cheaper 3m scale bird. Heck, anything using hinged spoilers would probably be safe to fly using this method.

The first pic illustrates where you would want the servo mounted for the above mentioned method and I found another set up, the second image, while looking for pictures of how to mount the rubberbands.

Images

Back to the Seagull Ka8.
Electronics are in..........I'm using a A123 2300mah for a Rx battery. It's to big to mount in the nose because of the tow release tube. I put it in the front of the canopy hatch........there is a space in front of the dash panel that is big enough to hold the battery. It is the farthest forward place I could find the space to hide it.
In order to get the plane to balance I had to use 9.7 oz of lead in the nose above the tow release tube.
The plane hangs pretty much level. I'll get a AUW on it in the next day or two.
Even with the lead in the nose, I think it will come in on the light side.

The plane is an affordable choice for someone who wants to try aerotow. The quality is good for the price. Hope the flight characteristics are good.........10ft wing and light weight..........it should be good.