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Hi everyone. Just a heads up, I have been in contact with Don regarding his .50 caliber customs CNC rear ORV arms, and he is now considering the option of another parts run if there is enough interest.
He is going to contact some local machine shops to work out minimum numbers and minimum pricing required and take it from there. Obviously the rear swing arms are the crown jewel item, but other possible parts if it goes ahead are steering blocks, front arms, rear shock mounts, rear body post brace, and motor cover.
Some links to show examples of his parts -
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-frog-brat-orv-aluminum-468167415
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-monster-beetle-black-foot-mud-440019891
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-vintage-blackfoot-monster-481068476
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-monster-beetle-black-foot-mud-401325750
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-frog-monster-beetle-blackfoot-132398427
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-frog-brat-blackfoot-monster-137667539
https://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=97760&amp;id=23382
Don's plan once he knows minimum cost and numbers is to start a go fund me page to raise the capital required. He is happy for me to share his email address so any questions can be sent directly to him, but please genuinely interested inquiries only -
Don McAtee - mcateedon@gmail.com
Lets all support him on this and cross our fingers in the hope that it goes ahead
Cheers,
Dave.

First off, let me apologize for not getting better pictures of everything before now. I'll do my best to get better pics as I continue to make repairs and mods. But here goes nothing!
This is my original issue Clodbuster with an old Bullhead body on it. I got this one from a friend of mine whose father built it and then put it on a shelf for its entire life. Here's how it looked when I got my hands on it. This is actually it sitting on my friend's toolbox in his garage.
The first order of business when I got it home was to get it going again. It was setup with a Novak ESC (which I was surprised to see instead of a manual speed controller), a Futaba 27mhz tx/rx set, and a Futaba servo. The ESC had a Tamiya battery plug on it so that got removed and I installed Anderson Power Poles on it instead. I hate 27mhz with a passion simply because I'm really good at forgetting about the antenna and whacking it against things, so I pulled the old receiver out and installed a Traxxas 2.4ghz unit. Here's the setup, shown with a Traxxas battery adapter plugged into the ESC.
My friend also included an old halogen red light bar. I installed that as well. His father had installed an old halogen light kit at one point with headlights and rear off road lights. With the lights and the light bar running off the same 9v battery source, the flashing circuit wasn't getting enough voltage and only one side of the light bar was staying solidly illuminated. I pulled the old headlights out, disconnected the rear off road lights, and installed a generic LED kit that I got a while back into it. It came with two white LEDs that I put in the headlight buckets and two red LEDs that I put in the foglight buckets in the bumper. Pics are hard to get of the setup but this gives you the idea.
I ran it for a while like this but then decided to do something about the suspension. I pulled off the dual friction dampers from each corner and installed single oil filled ones. The shocks are Traxxas Slash rear length units. The front springs are some single rate springs that I had kicking around. The rears are stock Clod springs. The suspension could still use different springs and oil weight in the shocks, but it's better than the stock setup in my opinion. I also made a small notch in the chassis for suspension clearance so I have a little more travel and a little more articulation. I don't have any pictures of the suspension work in progress but I do have this shot that shows off the setup pretty well.
The HUGE flaw with the Clod is obviously steering, so I've got the Crawford Performance Engineering vertical servo mount kit on the way (technically two of them, one for each axle). With some slight modification to the 3 way toggle switch, the Traxxas 4 channel transmitter can be used to control rear steer. I've pulled the axle bumpers off in preparation for when the kits show up. For the time being, I'm going to use two Traxxas 2075 (water proof 125 oz servos) until I can upgrade to something better. As you guys can probably tell by now, I have a lot of Traxxas stuff laying around lol. Here's how the project looks as of yesterday when I did a Thanksgiving test crawl. It's no crawler and that's not the direction I'm going with the build, but I hadn't really had the chance to get it out and really use it off road since I got it and this was about as "off road" as I was going to get in my in-law's housing development.
I'll get some pictures of the CPE axle mount servo install when I do it. I'm also kicking around different ideas for motor/ESC combos that would work well for what I want to do with this. I'll update this thread when I make up my mind on that, too.

'Basher' is a relatively new word in my vocabulary, one which I learned here at tamiyaclub.com, and now I need one. So I've 'won' an original Subaru Brat rolling chassis on ebay, shipped for a total of $60. I thought it was a fair price, although it showed up with a broken front body mount due to inadequate packaging. I believed an off-road RC car would make it through the US mail without getting broken, but wound up slightly disappointed. On the other hand it has bearings throughout which is a nice bonus. I was actually looking forward to the locked differential of the early Brat, but this one has a differential in it. Anyway the Brat was one of those cars I drooled over in the Tamiya catalog as a kid and I'm pretty excited to finally have my first ORV (man was I disappointed the fist time I saw a real Subaru Brat with it's tiny tires)! Not shown is a lexan Tamiya Brat body with decals, also from ebay.

The Tamiya Brat is the only Subaru I have ever wanted to own and 6 months after buying one it is finally up and running. There are some small detail paint stuff that still needs to be finished and some up-grades that need to be done. While constructing it I suspected that the steering gear might give me some issues and that improvements need to be made. My local outdoor track open for the summer today so I took it out for a run and yup, the steering was certainly and issue with the RH arm getting bent like a banana right at the end of the session. The rear shocks are currently way too stiff also and combined with a fast steering response it was a very twitchy beast to drive indeed. The body and bumper center's were sprayed with Tamiya TS rattle cans with all the other colours including the semi-gloss black (which you can't really see) and silver, also Tamiya TS paint, are hand painted. It is basically built box stock with the addition of one piece alloy wheels, alloy front suspension arms and an alloy motor mount/heat-sink by T4works who are currently planing to add more dress-up parts for the Frog/Brat chassis. The sticker set is by MCI Racing. Along with the steering upgrades I am looking at adding a front coil over shock setup at some point too.

Anyone have any interesting Tamiya Brat builds? I'm looking at getting the 58384 Subaru Brat. I need a new Brat hard body for my Clod and I figure getting the re-release is the perfect way to make sure I get everything I need plus have another complete car w/ the included lexan to build up for my daughter. Has anyone done anything unique with the Subaru Brat kit?

Want to buy: NIB or used (in good working condition) Tamiya Frog "sway bar" or "stabilizer" set for rear.
Looking for Trinity #7002, or You-G #TM-8413, or a CRA rear stabilizer set.
If you have one you can sell me (USA), please get in touch!
Thanks,
Terry

When I purchased my Lancia Rally years ago, there was evidence that the chassis was original. One of the clues was its gearbox, which had a solid final drive gear and hex-style outdrives and cups. My Lancia has been anything but period-correct since then, so now I offer its complete supplanted gearbox.
What you see here is a complete gearbox from an early ORV-chassis Tamiya. This sale features a fully-assembled gearbox; matching hex-style outdrives, driveshafts, and axle stubs; rubber boots; and the plastic pinion gear cover cap (Part C12, not pictured). Also included are two rear suspension arms and complete dampers (not pictured).
The gearbox is in used condition and complete, featuring the original solid final drive gear instead of the later differential - a distinguishing feature of a stock Lancia Rally/Subaru Brat gearbox. It is fully assembled but not greased. Part C12 is not pictured but will be included in the sale; two 3 x 27 mm screws will be required to attach a 380 motor, or two 3 x 30 mm screws for a 540 motor. Upon request, a proper 380 motor adaptor can be included in the sale. To my knowledge, this gearbox was built up with plastic bearings. The gears turn smoothly with no binding, and visual inspection reveals minimal wear.
The outdrives, driveshafts, and axle stubs are also in used condition, but with intact hexagonal ends showing little wear. The accompanying rubber boots are supple but show a single small hole each at one end, at its widest point. It is unknown to what extent these components were used - I swapped them out for modern CV joints prior to running the model on which the outdrive assemblies were equipped.
I am open to offers and trades; however money is a priority given the circumstances under which I am selling these parts. At present, I am looking for approximately $60 CAD, which will include shipping from their location in Canada. I am able to open up this figure to negotiation where a specific shipping cost is requested. Where other currencies are considered, the Canadian dollar will provide a baseline for conversions (and remember that it is weak right now ). I accept PayPal, either marked as 'gift' or with a nominal increase added to compensate for transaction fees.
As well as I have attempted to describe these parts, pictures do a better job; thus:
One set of axle stub and outdrive is shown here:
The other set is in this photo:
The condition of one of the driveshaft ends, which inspection confirms applies to both ends of each assembly:
I am also including a pair of rear suspension arms. These are in used condition, with a single crack at each damper mount point, but still usable. Plastic bearings will be fitted to these if part of the purchase. Note that I cannot endorse the 'vintage' nature of the arms with absolute certainty.
The rear dampers are in used working condition, and are proper vintage parts.
Of course, if you wish for more detailed photos and/or have any questions, do not hesitate to ask me! I have ready access to all parts mentioned and wish for you to buy with confidence, so I will be more than happy to answer your queries.
Thanks for reading!
Edit: Note that I will be absent from May 11th - 28th, so communications will be sparse during that time, and shipments delayed until the 29th.

Hey All
Some of you may have seen my eBay listing for this item but i figured i would try to sell it on the forum as well. I have been parting out my ORV related items to fund other builds.
Up for sale is a great package for someone with a Re-release Frog or Brat or Vintage Frog, Brat, Monster Beetle, or Blackfoot. Selling a very lightly used MIP Ball differential that has less that 3 runs on it! These Ball diffs only began selling at the start of this year.
You will get:
- Assembled MIP Tamiya Super ball Diff Part Number: #16210
- Remaining MIP Ball diff grease
- Tamiya ORV Gearbox with all mounting and closure screws
- 16 Tooth pinion with set screw and matching spur gear
- Tamiya gearbox pinon gear cover with screws
- Assembled Tamiya Universal Shaft Kit Part Number 53908 (dog bone ends are in the boot so you cannot see them in the picture)
- Tamiya rear axle shaft joint boots
- Tamiya rear plastic hubs with drive pins
The re-release Monster Beetle and Blackfoot now come with the universal shaft kit. The re-release Frog and Brat need the universal shaft kit to take advantage of the MIP Ball differential. If you have a Re-release Frog or Brat or any vintage Frog, Brat, Monster Beetle, or Blackfoot, this would be everything you'd need to take advantage of this new ball differential setup.
Price is $105 PayPal'd and shipped to the US.

Have the follow for sale, From what I can I am correct in say the Frog and Brat are vintage while the Grasshopper and Hornet are Re-re's.
Vintage:
- Frog €65 - MSC/No servos
- Brat Rolling Chassis - SOLD
Re-Re's
- Grasshopper - SOLD
- Hornet - €50 - has steering servo
Also have a couple Tamiya Hump Battery Packs and a couple of unpainted drivers if any one is interested
Paypal Only, Postage at buyers cost. Buyer pays PayPal fees
I will let the pictures do all the talking for these. More are availalbe on request.
Frog:
Brat - SOLD
Grasshopper:
Hornet

I love vws, I love brats but can't afford a totally separate model, so, so far this as happened. The sand scorcher wheel base is exactly the same as the orv chassis'd brat so bar a mounting conundrum for the body, a rear window to source and an engine, so far so good.

Now apologies if this is in the wrong section or i'm repeating someone else's thread but I've searched and not found anything or my search words are faulty causing the search engine not to chooch.
Right, the front hub on the Brat / Orv as an axle what is pressed into the hub and mine pulled out after a good hours worth of fun. I persuaded it back in with a small hammer and all seems well, but I bet it will happen again, so..... Is there any way too mod this with new hubs from another model, or is this an apparent weakness? It's actually a re-release with all these newly re-designed flaws off the old design and six months old.

Here's my build collection so far. Future will be a Sand scorcher body for the Brat and another Honda for me. That's Doms car. Mine will be have front cambered wheels like Dom's and a wee bit of rear too. Foam in tyres, dampers and lowered. Poss interior too.

This is probably an old chestnut but my Brat rerelease rolls over so easy its hilarious. I understand the science etc and has anyone managed a mod or hop up to stop it? I'm using the rigid shell seeing number 1 son pilfered the lexan one. I have never had so much fun at all with a rc car, but I worry the flip will happen on tarmac so perhaps some quality rims for tarmac may be in order. Let me know your thoughts..
John

I recently purchased a re released Brat kit minus an ESC and have built it up I think well minus the grease in a few wrong places, but we'll keep mum about that.
The front suspension is intriguing me due to the lack of a damper. Myself and Ed back in 2001 bought an original Brat off a boot sale and struggles to keep the chassis together due to the front radius arm mountings. So looking at this 'new and improved' version I have just built I can see the radius arm issue is still around. I've seen a few videos on youmeither and the upright kits and printed parts look great. I wonder though thinking how a car's anti rollbar functions, Tamiya would have junked these two parts and gone for a one piece rollbar assembly clamped inside a tube which could have bolted laterally and screwed into the same holes. I'm gonna see what I can do with some bike spokes. I originally worked in electronics engineering and loved R&D so this is hitting my tinkering spot.

Hello, I'm looking for a decent pair of wheels and tires for a brat. I see I can get them new on fleabay for about $40 shipped. I'm looking for a better deal..... Also looking for a pair of vintage uprights for the brat or frog...those are about $15 on flea bay..
thanks!!

Hey, I'm building a project I've been thinking about for a couple years. Looking for ideas....
Im going the rat rod look due to the original condition of the body. I've already got about 20 hours into the body....
i need colors. I didn't want to go all black. I am thinking a deep red in the sides and black on the top.
Also any ideas for the antenna mount. It's currently mouthed to a monster beetle skid plate with a super Blackfoot antenna holder.
additionally, I need a vintage MB window to hide all the innards.

Hey, I'm building a project I've been thinking about for a couple years. Looking for ideas....
Im going the rat rod look due to the original condition of the body. I've already got about 20 hours into the body....
i need colors. I didn't want to go all black. I am thinking a deep red in the sides and black on the top.
Also any ideas for the antenna mount. It's currently mouthed to a monster beetle skid plate with a super Blackfoot antenna holder.
additionally, I need a vintage MB window to hide all the innards.

No affliation... Just thought I'd throw it out there...
http://r.ebay.com/vYwB6X
Good deal on used CRP part... Missing the piece(s) that go inside the tranny case, though...
Doing a little more searching on Fleabheyz turned up this: http://r.ebay.com/CczAXp
Matches the red chassis of the MB, and is complete. Albeit, it is more expensive...
Again, no affiliation...
Terry

Hello, I'm looking for a pair of steering uprights for the tamiya frog or brat. Not sure if any other models use these but if so then those models too!=) I'm trying to make a frog out of leftover blackfoot parts.. Does anyone have some they'd be willing to give up? Thanks, John

Hello again,
Couldn't think of a better topic name, so I just named it after the model - Subaru Brat.
Got it recently for 10 euros and didn't see much imperfections, except the lack of body, until I started reassembling it - the front suspension was made completely wrong and the screws were so hard and uncomfortable to reach and unscrew. But with some help from my father, the screws were off and I cleaned and reassembled the front.
Altough, one porblem is still here and I don't know what to do. A nut, which is holding the front wheel is 'stuck' (don't know if it's the right word to use in such situation). When I try to screw or unscrew it, it just keeps spinning/moving in its place.
Here are some pictures, so it would be easier for you to understand:
Maybe someone of you have had similair problems? What hould I do?
Also, I would be interested in a Subaru Brat body.

Hi All, I've just bought myself a re-re Brat kit (supplied without ESC) and am in the process of building it up and wanted to know what options I have for locking the diff and possibly strengthening the transmission.
I've done some research and seen various methods, so far the faviourite one being to drill and tap the diff output cups and thread lock an M3 bolt down the centre to hold the cups together, as you'd find in a ball diff on any other car, this would have an added benefit of helping prevent the casings spreading under power.
The intermediate gear in the transmission is very narrow, how do these hold up? I had intended to run a mild brushless setup, more for better run times than outright power so bought a Turnigy 3000kv motor/esc/card combo from HK, but having seen the weak looking intermediate gear I'm now having my doubts.
I've got the option of running the stock silver can motor and a Tamiya 101 ESC (Already had it, hence buying the kit without an ESC) along with a low voltage alarm/5000mah Lipo.
Any advice welcome