I've done frame-up restorations on firebirds and the like, I know suspensions in and out pretty well, so how they work with my car is not a big concern, but I need to make sure you are basing your judgement on at least a fairly similar vehicle. I have the ability to impliment whatever is decided is best, so long as I get help in deciding, as I haven't been "in the loop" for about 5 years. I don't have a spring compressor anymore though...

Decision between 1/4 mile times and handling? No contest... handling over drag...

Personal opinion for me is that the suspension comes prior to the excessively expensive tires, the radials I have on now grab hard and work well, they are a rather agressive BF goodrich tire that seems to work well for cornering, but not the greatest for straightaway power applications.

I have driven many many different cars (from heavier fords to lightweight racer) and I've always been satisfied. Koni's are top flight, and sometimes the price reflects it. With springs, H&R is a good brand, but again I believe Eibach is a more proven name in the race arena, I personally run Koni/Eibach coilover setup.

Advantages of Koni over AGX's/Bilsteins (not my fav)
1)More adjustability (knob adjustment instead of 8 points with the AGX's, Bilsteins not adjustable at all)
2)better warranty service, having worked with warranty returns, this I can guarantee....if buying a used set you can send one off to koni, they can examine and test it and tell you how much longer to expect them to last. Last set we tested they told us "more than a typical cars life" the number associated was 225K Miles!!!! Bilstein is very very very slow in their work, and take forever
3)Upgradeability, Konis can be revalved for even firmer applications and ultimate race apps as well if you start with the sport models.
4)Bilsteins tend to ride very very firm, while that can be nice, long distance really suffers
5)Some cars are coming with non adjustable agx's (mitsu eclipse for instance), so the adjustable isn't a huge upgrade, but the Konis are.

As for going with stiffer bushings, they squeak and won't provide the immediate bonus that shock/spring combo would (cost is very pricey as well)

As for other "cheap" tricks I know you could do. Weld up subframe braces, or make thicker ones to replace your current ones, as well as boxing in the A-arms up front or adding bracing in the rear (or boxing in current bracing for stiffness) this will give the car less "float" in the corners.

Sway bars, again I'm going to have to recommend Eibach for this as well, there are probably multiple bars available, and you will have to be careful, to stiff and you can promote understeer (when you turn the wheel and the car just doesn't turn) or too soft in the rear bar and you can cause oversteer (see tail happy donuts kinda thing)

-Greer

*Winner of the Beastly 1000th AND 2000th Post*
slappin momma llama on the backside-Joshie-Poo :-D

Vendors: We will allow you to break the laws of physics and the second law of thermodynamics so long as you provide us with a working model.

Other things to look into (If money is no issue, Global West and Suspension Techniques are the best with LG Motorsports close behind then BMR):
Lower Control arms (get spherical rod ends if possible, if not get poly/rubber NOT POLY/POLY, it will bind)
Lower control arms relocation brackets (anythign will do, BMR is good for this)
Sway bars front and rear, go GW or ST if possible, it not LG is great

All that will get you a great handling car, and of course some great tires. The Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 tires from http://www.tirerack.com are highly recommended for handling as well as the BFG Comp T/A KDW tires. After those things it's all in the hands of the driver

Oh yeah, if you REALLY want to spend, look into an adjustable a-arm and tubular front K-member. All this will take ALOT of weight off the front of the car and make it more neutral. Be prepared to spend if you decide to go this far though. Hope all this helped Josh. Later man.

Oh and for brakes, don't worry about steel braided lines (just increase pedal pressure, no real benefit) or slotted/cross drilled rotors, all that is driveway jewelry. Look into the C5 brake adapters from http://www.nashvillespeed.com first off, they come highly recommended by some of the very best drivers out there. Or just get a set of Baer brakes with blank rotors and some good pads. Either way it'll be enough for your car, but be aware that most require a 17" wheel or larger to clear.

I respectfully disagree. The main purpose of slotted and cross drilled rotors are to release gas buildup, which with todays pad materials it's not even an issue. I doubt you'll see the benefit in cooling, you can more than make up for it by making some ducts that direct air to the brakes. Cross drilled rotors tend to crack when very hot as well. A blank rotor gives the pad more surface to bite onto and if they are good brakes fade will not be an issue regardless. Like I said its driveway jewelry, not saying I don't like it, just if you want to get "serious" don't bother with it. I'll probably wind up with some nice looking slotted rotors on my car one day, or most likely I'll just get blanks and paint my calipers for the "flash" I want.