Karaoke speaker,no woofer or midrange working, only tweeter

I have a karoake speaker set that has a built-in power amplifier in one of the speakers. Thru a cable the 2nd speaker enclosure is connected to the "amped" speaker enclosure. I've only had the set a few years and really have'nt used them all that much. Last week I went to hook them up and found that the tweeter, in the "amped" speaker was the only speaker working. Each speaker enclosure has a woofer,tweeter and a mid-range,the only difference in the two is that one has the power amp. While it was hooked up to the 2nd speaker, which sounded great,meaning all the speakers were working in that 2nd enclosure, the main "amped" speaker only had the tweeter operating. The woofer and midrange were silent. I removed the 8" woofer from the affected speaker (without disconnecting it from the devices inside the enclosure) and hooked my stereo speaker wire up to the two connections on the back of the speaker to see if it would work. Nope! Same result, only the tweeter worked.If anyone can help me with this I'd really appreciate it!!!!!

Thanks Benimur, I did just as you recommended. As you described there was no resistance on either woofer or mid-range. There was activity on the tweeter, the only driver that was working. So now I'm searching the net for an 8" woofer and 3-4" mid-range. Is there a way to distinguish drivers that are for live perfomance and just music. I'm guessing that the drivers that "went" were somewhat stronger to be able to absorb "live" sound. Any suggestions? Thanks again, Mr2xfourThanks Benimur, I did just as you recommended. As you described there was no resistance on either woofer or mid-range. There was activity on the tweeter, the only driver that was working. So now I'm searching the net for an 8" woofer and 3-4" mid-range. Is there a way to distinguish drivers that are for live perfomance and just music. I'm guessing that the drivers that "went" were somewhat stronger to be able to absorb "live" sound. Any suggestions? Thanks again, Mr2xfour

AnonymousMar 21, 2014

The woofer does not work and the tweeter sounds softer and twangy. Tried speaker on the other channel, same thing.The woofer does not work and the tweeter sounds softer and twangy. Tried speaker on the other channel, same thing.

Hi, it's probably that the 8" woofer and the midrange of the "amped" enclosure is open. One way to test is to remove just one wire from the inside of the enclosure to the woofer or midrange in question and with the use of a continuity tester (or a VOM), check for the resistance of the coil of each the 2 speakers. Both should read anywhere from 4-8 ohms, if there's no reading (VOM needle will not move) then the coil(s) are open. In the absence of a tester, a single AAA or AA battery would do (pls. some would argue that this is not a sound practice, however this should be enough for you to be able to determine the condition of the coil(s)). With the use of the battery and a single short length of electrical wire, apply power from the battery to the terminals of the speaker, if the cone moves, then chances are it is good, if they don't then you would have to replace it. Am not sure if available in your area, but there are some trained people who can rewind the coil should a replacement speaker be not readily available. Hope this be of help. Please let us know how things turn up. Regards.

Hi again, sorry it took some time to get back to you.On the 8" woofer and 3-4" mid-range:Is there a way to distinguish drivers that are for live perfomance and just music.I'm guessing that the drivers that "went" were somewhat stronger to be able to absorb "live" sound.Hmmmm, live performance would be using instrument speakers, separate vocal speakers separate so on & so forth speakers; music, if you mean listening music would mean soft but clear, probably in the den or the bedroom. But I guess your choice really has been made for you. You have to get speakers that closely follow the specs (compliance, ohmage etc) of the other set of speakers still working, otherwise the pair would have a sort of unbalance performance/efficiency whether live or listening music.

Hope this be of some help. Good luck and regards.Hi again, sorry it took some time to get back to you.
On the 8" woofer and 3-4" mid-range:
Is there a way to distinguish drivers that are for live perfomance and just music.
I'm guessing that the drivers that "went" were somewhat stronger to be able to absorb "live" sound.
Hmmmm, live performance would be using instrument speakers, separate vocal speakers separate so on & so forth speakers; music, if you mean listening music would mean soft but clear, probably in the den or the bedroom. But I guess your choice really has been made for you. You have to get speakers that closely follow the specs (compliance, ohmage etc) of the other set of speakers still working, otherwise the pair would have a sort of unbalance performance/efficiency whether live or listening music.
Hope this be of some help. Good luck and regards.

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Related Questions:

If the noise you hear comes from the tweeter or the midrange speakers, it means your amplifier is noisy; if the noise comes from the woofer, then the internal amplifier (it has its own) of the speaker is noisy. If both speakers are noisy, it is most probable that the "static noise" you hear comes from the external amplifier, which you will have to check or change.

What
is the difference between bi-wiring and bi-amping?
Bi-wiring is using the same power source (amplifier) but
separately
connecting that power source to a woofer and a
midrange/tweeter on a
speaker.

Bi-amping is using two separate power sources (amplifiers)
and
connecting one amplifier to a woofer and the other amplifier
to a
midrange/tweeter on a speaker.

How do I bi-wire?
Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative
connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the
midrange/tweeter). Connect one wire between the positive
terminal on
the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker.
Connect
the other wire from the negative terminal on the
amplifier/receiver
to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker.
Remove the
jumper straps connecting the two sets of speaker inputs.
Repeat this
process for the second set of terminals on the speaker,
connecting
them to the same positive and negative terminals on the
receiver/amplifier. Repeat the steps for each speaker you
wish to
Bi-Wire, connecting them to the appropriate terminals on
your
receiver/amplifier.

How do I bi-amp?Bi-amping is similar to bi-wiring, but involves
separate
amplifiers: one for the woofer and one for the
midrange/tweeter.
Passive bi-amping involves a direct hookup between each
amplifier
and the speaker terminals. True bi-amping involves hooking
the
preamp to an electronic crossover that replaces the passive
crossover network in the speaker. The active crossover then
connects
to multiple power amplifiers.

The six 1/2 speakers are your woofers,connect the positive and negative wires from the speaker to the 2 connections labeled on the crossover as W(woofer)+ pos and W(woofer) -- neg,hook the tweeters to the crossover connections labeled T(tweeter)+ pos and T(tweeter) -- neg,then hookup the 2 remaining connections labeled Amp to your amplifier,amp must be 2 or 4 channel stereo capable and give out enough power to properly drive the speakers so they achieve optimal performance.

the conductor xxx\blk is the minus or black( from speaker) the outher is positive\red pin from speaker) the woofer is bigest speaker inside is connected on the crossover at low output, tweeter at high output, if you connect wrong you can burn speakers and crossover, you can test with very low volume on amplifier.

1st connect low to woofer, it only her low freq below 500Hz like drums and bass, if connect on med out the speaker is working as handpocket old radio audio. if connect on high the speaker is like no audio out. (the woofer take about 60-75% of amp power).

2nd connect the midrange at mid output you can listen to human voice cristal clear. if connect on high output you listem like esteric female shouting.

And connect the tweeter at the empty output

Take particular attention on polarity terminals, if you exchange the polarity you have a moofle sound traped inside of speaker, and some structered box noise who may open the box panels in future.

Your amp is going into protection. The click you hear is a relay meant to protect your speakers and stereo. Check your speakers with an ohm meter for the the proper ohms ( listed on the speaker ) and physically try to push each woofer and midrange cone in gently to make sure it moves and is not stuck or frozen in place. A speaker may read correctly on an ohm meter if the woofer is ok but if the tweeter or midrange is not working it will cause the amp to go into protection mode. When you play music stick your ear up to each tweeter\midrange\woofer to ensure they are working.Your stereo could also be the culprit although usually if it plays music it is ok as long as you are not hearing loud pops. Loud pops are voltage spikes that indicate that a transistor\IC is breaking down and will eventually short. Good luck!

If the only problem is the tweeter, and the woofer is still working, you do not have a problem in the amplifier. The problem is the speaker. The tweeter is blown or you have a problem in the cross over network in the speaker.

You can always switch the speakers and connect them to the opposite channel. You can do this very easy at the back of the receiver where the speaker wires are at. Put the left speaker wires on the right speaker and the right speaker wires on the left speaker. If the same speaker still has no tweeter you know that the speaker is the problem.

The only way this could be a problem in the amplifier is if you have two different sets of inputs for each speaker, one being the low end for the woofer and the other being the high end for the mid range and tweeter. That would mean you have two sets of speaker wires going to each speaker. Each set of speaker wires would have a positive wire and a negative wire for a total of 4 wires going to each speaker. I don't remember this system being set up that way, but I could be wrong.

I hope this was helpful, you should be able to get the speaker fixed at an authorized Kenwood repair center in your area for a reasonable price. As a guide, my shop only charges $25 for the labor plus the cost of the tweeter to replace a tweeter. Any other shop should be similar. Kenwood does sell replacement drivers for almost all of their speakers.