irpano wrote:Hi Klaus, I realise you wer testing the lense and assume that ypou have not processed the image. I was wondering if the neutralhazer filter in APG would help if you had to use this image.John

Hi John!

I tested the NH filter - it didnÂ´t help here because of too much haze. The filter canÂ´t do miracles . . . :cool:IÂ´ll look for the examples and show them here.

tived wrote:Ok, here goes - do you fix the focus or do you let the camera auto-focus on each frame?

Hi Henrik!

I did my shot using JosefÂ´s head with xml files. In a first experiment i used different focusing on the foreground - but the foreground was too close for a 300mm: between 3m and 10m.So i used a fixed focus - i wanted to have an unsharp foreground.

Basically i would make a shot like yours - which i like much! - with changing focus slightly (!) from foreground to the hyperfocal distance. Changing focus too much results in too big scaling-differences for the stitcher and youÂ´d need to do focus-stacking.

I never use AF or another automatic. Fixed WB, fixed exposure - and always RAW.

JosefÂ´s head is extremely sturdy and weights about 4Kilograms. So long exposure is not a problem at all even with 300mm or 600/800mm. Essential is a mirror-lock before each exposure. Josef added a motion-sensor which detects the slightest shaking. ItÂ´s switchable of course and weÂ´re adjusting itÂ´s sensitvity at the moment. So we can set a short "dead-time" and the sensor gives a "go" after any kind of shaking is gone. That saves fractions of a second - firing the camera about 700 times for a mosaic or a highres sphere this means a lot of time.

I stopped 2,3minutes for a 700MPx sphere using a 35mm lens on ff. ThatÂ´s not "speed-mode" but definitely ensures sharp images even using 1/60sec instead of 1/1500sec . . . :cool: