I have what I was told by the guy at the hardware store is a Price Phister (AVANTE) valve. I tried to remove the old cartridge with no luck.
Is there a retainer clip or screw from the back holding the cartridge in place?
Is it just mineral build up? Any ideas for mineral removal woud be great.

Take the handle off, then reinsert the screw part way. THEN grab the stem with the pliers, push in, then YANK outwards quickly. You may have to do it several times but it will come out. Pulling on the handle is NOT the same.

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Phil lloyd, at least your removal kit doesn't have any new items to take up space in the tool box, but your universal puller with all the adapters which would be needed would require finding a spot to put them. Some place where you would remember where it was when you actually needed it once every few years or so.

Do you have a flashlight and a screwdriver. If the piece is still in there, and not on the bottom of the bathtub, all you have to do is pull it out. It is just a piece of rubber, and possibly a chip of plastic.

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Less than two years later the valve is leaking again. It's not dripping in the off position, instead it is leaking water from the handle stem and blowing it back towards the wall when it is on.
Will a new cartridge solve this or is the valve body shot? House is almost 30 years old.

I answered my own question when I removed it. The small end was broken off and remained in the valve body. I was able to modify a small screwdriver and pulled the remainder out.
My question for the real plumbers is why was it broken? Did I over tighten it on install? Is there some formula for proper install?

Thanks in advance for your input. I still have another one to do.

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It was broken because Price Pfister had a bad batch of stems. All the new ones are good ones, but one plumber had to go through about 10 of the old ones before he found one which did not come apart. I had several which did it, but now have the new ones. Call 1-800-PFAUCET and PP will send you a new Avante stem. Then you can put the one you bought, or the new one, back into its package and return it.

I am not certain what kind of valve I have, but I assume I have an 0x9 series valve which should work with this new trim.

My existing valve looks like this:

Do i need to make any other special preparations to attach the new trim to the old valve? I replaced the cartridge about a year ago, so the valve works great. I want to avoid roughing in a new valve at all costs).

1. The opening in the wall will be larger than the new round trim ring will cover.
2. The new ring will NOT be secured with screws like the present one is.
3. If you can replace the valve body with a new one using the available opening, then I have used "backup" trim rings from other manufacturers to cover the oversized hole in the wall.

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Hello. I'm hopping on this thread because I have the same valve and I'm having trouble getting the cartridge out. The photo shows my tub valve. I reinserted the handle screw and using a vise-grip tried pulling, yanking, twisting, and wiggling but it will not budge. Any suggestions from seasoned veterans?
Thanks!

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OK, it's me again.
Same faucet, only this time the stem broke off and remained in the knob. Any advice on removing the cartridge remaining in the valve body without the stem?
How do I find a quality replacement cartridge?

Are the two slotted screws on either side of the valve body for shutting off the water?

INsert a screw into the remaining stem and THEN perform the previously stated extraction method, i.e., grab screw with pliers, push stem in, the pull out VIOLENTLY, maybe several times. Those are shut off valves.

mission accomplished, the only glitch was the (LASCO) stem was hollow, a little smaller than a 5/16 bolt. I ran a 5/16 tap in it and gave the t-handle a tug and bam! old cartridge out. Replaced with PHISTER from MORRISON SUPPLY this time. This is probably one of those get what you pay for lessons I have such a hard time learning.
Thanks!