Help ! Does anyone know how to adjust the throttle cable in a manner that keeps it from coming out of the metal thing on the carburetor mine keeps coming loose on the car ride in and will not stay in the metal holder for lack of a better term Iíll include a picture there must be a way to tighten the cable thanks in advance

loosen the jam nut on the bottom of the bracket that the cable housing is threaded in to. Unscrew the cable housing until all the slack is removed from the cable, then while holding the cable housing in place, tighten the jam nut back against the bracket. Just don't over tighten the cable or it will mess with your idle settings.

Hi guys(and maybe gals) just found this thread. I am currently in the market for an auger, just sold my Pro 4 thank god, and I'm currently torn between the Z51 and Rocket F1. Any info on these two to help me with the choice I'd appreciate. Thanks!

Bought the F1 a few weeks ago as my first power auger. Starts and runs like a dream. Needed a bit of extra priming today in sub zero temps but it made the chips fly.

I was wondering how often, if at all, you guys open your transmission case and replace or add grease? What grease do you use, how difficult is it to do, and is there anything to be careful of? I don't know what made me start thinking about this and I don't have any issues with my auger so it's not something I'd do until the off season.

I was wondering how often, if at all, you guys open your transmission case and replace or add grease? What grease do you use, how difficult is it to do, and is there anything to be careful of? I don't know what made me start thinking about this and I don't have any issues with my auger so it's not something I'd do until the off season.

I was also curious about that. My old Magnum III Strikemaster lasted many years and I never split the gear case to check or change the lube. I think Eskimo recommends checking the gear case lube annually.

I bought my Mako back in 2003, never did it, and don't have any issues with it. It runs and cuts great and no signs of any grease leaking out but if it'd prevent problems in the future it'd be worth doing.

although I don't own a eskimo ice auger, ive had a lot of gas ice augers and never had to grease the transmision gears ever.my oldest is a 1971 jiffy and its still rips ice.i think if the clutch slips you might have to get in there and clean grease off the clutch.

Shouldn't have to crack open and add grease. However, after 8-10 years, wouldn't be a bad idea. New gasket and a good cold-weather PTFE grease and you should be good to go. Just do NOT overpack grease.

Hey Chris! Howz it goin? Other than tighten in a cross-hatch pattern, and don't over-tighten, not really. I forgot how much grease goes into the gearcase, have it somewhere around here. I know the 'mo tech manual does say in oz's, though....bet Eva could tell ya, too.

Hey Chris! Howz it goin? Other than tighten in a cross-hatch pattern, and don't over-tighten, not really. I forgot how much grease goes into the gearcase, have it somewhere around here. I know the 'mo tech manual does say in oz's, though....bet Eva could tell ya, too.

although I don't own a eskimo ice auger, ive had a lot of gas ice augers and never had to grease the transmision gears ever.my oldest is a 1971 jiffy and its still rips ice.i think if the clutch slips you might have to get in there and clean grease off the clutch.

My 30 year old jiffy never had the grease checked, still running strong. My 10 year old jiffy-el-junko has no problem with the transmission, the only part without issues. Dropping a cap on a new Mako tomorro!

I'll start by saying I had a challenging day on the ice today with my Eskimo Mako 43cc. Last year I was using regular fuel mixed with HUSQVARNA 2 stroke oil. My auger ran pretty good. It would usually start on the 2nd or 3rd pull when cold and then after that on the first pull. Once in a while I would notice a blue oily liquid coming out of the exhaust and dripping on to the auger. One day I needed to mix up more fuel and realized I had mixed it incorrectly from the start. The bottle of oil was for 2.5 gallons of gas. I'd run my auger from new for a year and a bit on an incorrect mix. I had mixed the oil in 2 gallons of gas . I mixed a new batch of fuel to the proper 50:1 and the auger ran great. Started on first or second pull. Lots of power when drilling.

A few weeks ago a buddy of mine was at the Lawnmower hospital getting his Eskimo auger tuned up. The Technician suggested to him that Aspen premix 50:1 was the best thing going for a persons auger . He relayed this info to me and figured why not. I drained my tank and filled it with the Aspen Premix 50:1 fuel.

The auger started fine. I noticed it ran a little rougher. I figured it was just the higher octane in the Aspen fuel. Today at the lake I started the auger as usual; started easy. Drilled a few holes. Then the auger started to bog while drilling. I worked through the bogging and manged to drill 5 more holes. I let the auger sit for half hour in disbelief. Then I though Ill try to drill a few more holes. When I went to start the auger I noticed a lot of blueish oil residue had dripped from the exhaust onto the flute. Their was oil all around the exhaust. Please note I had run the auger 5 or 6 times at home to test it on the Aspen fuel and to have the fuel run through the whole system. I drilled 10 more holes with the auger only bogging twice more .

Could it be that the Apsen is cleaning out the carb and motor which was causing the bogging , and the blueish oil is residue from the previous years usage with too rich of a mix? Or is Aspen its self causing my auger to bog?

Best you start here last year. This could have all been prevented by reading back a few pages to where it says ONLY USE NON ETHANOL FUEL.Somewhere here there is mentioned the use of Amsoil Sabre 100:1 synthetic lubricant, mixed 80:1. No other additives are needed because fuel stabilizer is already in it, in the proper proportion. From what you say it's doing, you may need a carb overhaul. We could be more helpful if we knew you location. But, you've kept that secret by not completing you profile.

Best you start here last year. This could have all been prevented by reading back a few pages to where it says ONLY USE NON ETHANOL FUEL.Somewhere here there is mentioned the use of Amsoil Sabre 100:1 synthetic lubricant, mixed 80:1. No other additives are needed because fuel stabilizer is already in it, in the proper proportion. From what you say it's doing, you may need a carb overhaul. We could be more helpful if we knew you location. But, you've kept that secret by not completing you profile.

Thank you for the suggestions. Finally the auger runs perfect. All the old oil and gunk has blown out of the system. It took and tank and a half to clear it all out. I also ran a tank with seafoam , as a precaution. Moving forward I will only use NON ETHANOL FUEL.

Here's some interesting info I found out. I was on Eskimo's website looking to pick up a spare set of 8 inch Turbo Cut blades for my 2003 Mako but couldn't find them. I emailed Eskimo and Eva told me that they don't make or have them anymore however I can get them through Strikemaster and the replacement blade I need is their LPD-8PB which is their Lazer Power Replacement Blades. In case anyone needs these blades Strikemaster has them in 6 through 10 inch versions.

Willing to bet the Lazer Hand auger blades will also fit the Eskimo Silvertip. I know when I first got the Silvertip the second time out one of the blades broke in half. I called Eskimo and they sent me out Turbo Blades. I called them again and they said they would send out the Silvertip blades but in the mean time just use the older Turbo blades that they would fit just not perfect. Sure enough they worked out fine and are still on the Auger.