Oral Histories

The SFA oral history program documents life stories from the American South. Collecting these stories, we honor the people whose labor defines the region.

Oral History

Greenwood Restaurants

September 1, 2003

Spend time winding along the back roads of the Mississippi Delta and you'll find roadside hot tamale stands, Greek-owned cafés that specialize in fried quail, barbecue joints that stake their reputation on ribs, and filling stations that sell slices of sweet potato pie baked by somebody's grandmother.

The Mississippi Delta has inspired writers, artists, and musicians. And, just as importantly, it has inspired cooks. Spend time winding along the back roads and you’ll uncover culinary jewels: roadside hot tamale stands, Greek-owned cafés that specialize in fried quail, barbecue joints that stake their reputation on ribs, and filling stations that sell slices of sweet potato pie baked by somebody’s grandmother.

Over a plate of ribs and sauce, Delta folks will tell you stories. Stories about Highway 61, the Civil Rights Movement, King Cotton, writer Walker Percy, or bluesman Robert Johnson—stories that you would never have learned if you had not sat down to eat.

In this project, you’ll meet the Pinkston family, fourth-generation owners of Lusco’s restaurant—famous for its broiled Gulf seafood and its curtained booths. You’ll also meet Pearl Johnson, a veteran practitioner of the Delta’s hot tamale tradition.

WORKING TOGETHER

WE CAN CULTIVATE PROGRESS.

The Southern Foodways Alliance drives a more progressive future by leading conversations that challenge existing constructs, shape perspectives, and foster meaningful discussions. We reconsider the past with research, scrutiny, and documentation.