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Some so-called Mizu-honyaki in Japan are oil quenched for the very reason that quenching in water can result in warping or cracking (sometimes on microscopic level). So, unless it comes from a very reputable source (and price sometimes is an indicator of that) you might get oil quenched blade that is passed for a water quenched. I was told at one time that in Sakai there are only a handful of people who can do a true Mizu-honyaki (water quenched) heat treatment.

Don't mean to hijack the thread. Mike if you get a great result quenching in water (brine) that is fantastic. I will tip my hat to you.

"All beauty that has no foundation in use, soon grows distasteful and needs continuous replacement with something new." The Shakers' saying.

ehh... many vendors say "mizuhonyaki" when it is not, but in my experience in Japan, mizu-honyaki is water quenched (hence the name) and honyaki is oil quenched. However, many do prefer to oil quench for many of the above reasons.

I would much rather use oil, but sadly, i do not have the proper oil for W2...yet :P I might take it with me to Randy's and sweet talk him into doing it in his oven. I spoke to Kevin Cashen(Metallurgical genius) yesterday and he narroed it down to a trick of the eye and it was not quite hot enough....Could have only been off by max. 100 degrees.....Tip hardened but the rest did not....still sad lol.

Marko, very very soon i will have the proper oils, i guess until then i will have others do my HT for me.

I would much rather use oil, but sadly, i do not have the proper oil for W2...yet :P I might take it with me to Randy's and sweet talk him into doing it in his oven. I spoke to Kevin Cashen(Metallurgical genius) yesterday and he narroed it down to a trick of the eye and it was not quite hot enough....Could have only been off by max. 100 degrees.....Tip hardened but the rest did not....still sad lol.

Marko, very very soon i will have the proper oils, i guess until then i will have others do my HT for me.

I am going to try HT W2 in one of those untraditional oils today. Will report on hardness and hamon figure. I use electric kiln.

"All beauty that has no foundation in use, soon grows distasteful and needs continuous replacement with something new." The Shakers' saying.

I havent found W2 needs any particularly fancy oils. I have used old engine oil, but it is very mucky and clean hydraulic oil and had good results with both. Had some good results with water too, and some tinks. I tend to use the water in my forge bosh, near boiling for initial quench which seems to help.