How
To Buy A Used BMW MotorcycleA
Work In Progress by Ted
VerrillCopyright 1998 (#TXu000885799)

So
you've decided to buy a used BMW motorcycle. I put this article together to help
you not only figure out which model is for you, but when to look, how to look,
and finally how to buy. Although I am far from an expert, I used among other things
the vast resources and expertise of the Internet
BMW list run by Joe Senner. Already bought a bike? Check out my "New
Owner's Guide" :)

I've
spent a lot of time over the past few years looking at used BMW bikes I thought
I would write down some things I've learned. In the spring of 1995 I had saved
$1000 and was looking for a basket case old R bike that I could buy cheap and
put back together. As I waited and looked I saved more money - As I saved more
money, I looked at more expensive bikes.

Right
now I am looking at late 80's K-75S' and K-100RS'. This was true when I started
this article, but no longer. I bought my '88 K75S on October 14, 1995. I had looked
at over 30 bikes over a 7-month period before picking this bike. The bike was
in very good condition and had only 23,672 miles on the clock. The bike as
of this edit has 49,511 miles, and aside from routine maintenance has needed very
little service. Another update, I sold the K75 with just over 50,000 miles
in the spring of 1997 and bought a slightly used 1995 BMW K1100RS. Yet another
update, on July 15, 1999 the K1100RS was totaled with almost exactly 50,000 miles
- I am now on the hunt for an R27.
Yet another update, it has been almost 10 years since the accident and I am once
again looking for K-Bikes, a '93 to '95 K75 with ABS to be precise! And another
update, I bought a K75RT :-)

I may sound
like a cynic and I am to some degree. However I have found it to be true that
it is far better to err on the side of doubt, and to pay close attention to "gut"
feelings when buying used motorcycles. I claim no great special knowledge and
I urge you to freely form your own opinions that contradict mine. When I was first
looking at bikes in early 1995, I had one seller that I truly liked (but who didn't
accept my generous offer) send back information on the BMW/BMW (our local club)
I had given him with a note saying he wouldn't have wished the "lemon"
on anyone and good luck in my search.

Lastly,
this guide is heavily skewed towards classic BMW K-Bikes (K75, K100 and K1100)
though the general themes apply to most if not all BMW's bikes.

A BRIEF NOTE ON SCAMS:
Lately a very convincing scam has been making the rounds and tricking even the
very careful. It involves being contacted by a buyer or seller, almost always
overseas, interested in buying your bike or selling you a bike. He will offer
to send a cashier's check or money order for one reason or another, but will have
to send it for more than whatever reason the scammer thinks up (insert excuse
here - it was already drawn, the account needs to be closed, the extra is for
transportation fees, etc.) He will ask you to deposit the check then wire him
the excess money via Western Union, Money Order, etc. Undoubtedly you will then
receive a call from the bank that the check/MO you deposited the week before was
actually a very clever forgery and they are removing the deposit money from your
account. You will be out whatever money you "refunded", any shipping
prep and deposits, and will never hear from the person again. HERE
is a great Wired story on this scam. In this case, it pays to be a bit
paranoid.Another popular scam these days is the "I am selling my bike
but just moved overseas, just wire me the money and I will have the bike delivered
to you for your inspection." There is no bike but the "seller"
does indeed live overseas.

There are many reasons
to choose bikes, and as many generalizations about the same bikes. Japanese bikes
are dependable, Italian bikes are fast, and German bikes last forever. Not very
many BMW riders have only ridden BMW's, most have come over from Japanese bikes
searching for a bike with "soul." Your choice is entirely a personal
one, and you should never make a major investment without evaluating all of the
possibilities. Remember though, that most have chosen BMW motorcycles because
of the reputation for durability, dependability and longevity. Personally I chose
BMW because I wanted a bike that I could ride a long, long way before having to
worry about extensive engine work.

b.
Examine Your Circumstances(namely how much do you have and
how badly do you want it?)

I am
not the greatest on advising you here as I started looking at broken-down R bikes
and am now looking for a spotless K bike. Generally I can say that the first thing
you need to do is establish three prices, what you want to spend, what you are
willing to spend, and your absolute ceiling. The cost structure then becomes more
difficult because you must add in several "hidden" costs, namely insurance,
tax on the transfer, and figure on about 5 to 10% of the sale price for immediate
basic repairs and maintenance. I mentioned three prices because unlike many Japanese
motorcycles, advertisements for BMW motorcycles do not pop up everywhere you look.
Once you have a good idea of what you want to spend, start thinking about what
kind of riding you plan on doing.

c.
Narrowing Your Choices of Models

BMW
has made a motorcycle for almost every style of riding (and rider.) Before leaping
at the first bike that screams "BUY ME" you should sit down with a pen
& paper and narrow your choices a little. BMW has created a fantastic timeline
of models, take a peek.

BMW
has made basically three major models of motorcycles, the R series which has two,
horizontally-opposed cylinders, the F series which has belt or chain drive and
2 side-by-side cylinders (older F bikes are single-cylinder, now morphed into
the G series) and the K series which has three or four side-by-side cylinders.
The R series is further divided by the modern fuel-injected bikes and the older
carbureted bikes. The older carbureted twins, known as "Airheads" are
widely respected for being a simpler design, durable, and easily and inexpensively
repaired. The later and more complex fuel-injected twins, known as "Oil-Heads"
and "Hex-Heads" are well known for raw power and the famous handling
from the revolutionary "telelever" front end. The K bikes, known as
"Bricks" from the appearance of the engine, or "Whiners" due
to the distinct whine created by the sound of the fuel pump, are the most complex
of the BMW bikes. They are renowned for dependability, incredible durability,
and ease of regular maintenance.

First,
consider your level of riding experience. The K1100RS and R1100RT may look very
cool, but they are a handful and suited for riders that have a few years of riding
under the belt and used to bikes with plenty of power and extremely precise handling.
They are also very expensive to drop. On the other hand, one of the earlier R
bikes like the R60/5 is a great bike to start out on, is forgiving in handling,
and not so expensive to drop. Most people will fall somewhere in between and should
take a few minutes to carefully consider how well they ride before settling on
a certain bike. (MSF Plug: take the Motorcycle
Safety Foundation course(s), your bike will thank you, your insurance will
drop, and you will be able to enjoy riding much more.)

Next,
consider your body style. Most BMW bikes will fit most any body style, either
right away or through modifications such as shorter rear shocks and lowered front
ends, lowered or raised seats, fiddling with tires, even moving footpegs. Many
of these modifications are expensive however, and often it is better to look towards
a model that is comfortable right off the bat. As an example, the R1200GS is generally
suited for taller riders, whereas BMW made a K75 "low seat" edition,
which is much more comfortable for those with shorter inseams. Sit on a few and
you should find what you find comfortable. Remember, the newer generations of
BMW bikes have adjustments to custom fit your bike, such as the three-position
seat on the R1100RT.

Further, consider
whether you are planning on performing regular maintenance on the bike yourself.
While a K bike needs valve adjustments only every 40,000 miles or so, servicing
the fuel injection system should something go wrong is beyond the capability of
most shade-tree mechanics. Alternatively, adjusting the valves on an R bike is
not difficult, but a monthly process for many. Regular maintenance on a classic
K bike is simple and sparse, yet more complicated repairs usually go to the shops.
While the Airheads certainly more maintenance-intensive, the more complex repairs
are often less difficult to find and less intimidating to repair.

The
final major consideration revolves around your style of riding. BMW makes bikes
like the R100GS that earned fame through its success in the Paris-Dakar rally,
and the R1100RS which is still competitively raced. They are two very different
bikes for two very different riders. Paradoxically, you will find many motorcyclists
that own both so don't fall into the trap of classifying yourself. Rather, consider
what style of riding you plan on doing more of, and gravitate towards the bike
that is better suited for it. While all BMW bikes are perfectly at home commuting
or on the highway, the F650GS would certainly be a better choice for the off-road
explorer, and conversely the K1100LT for the long-distance tourer.

d.
So Where and When Do I look?

Many
people will tell you that you should only buy a motorcycle during this time of
year and never buy one during that time, and so on. Basically, while bargains
on motorcycles can be had year-round, your variety of potential new rides is what
is limited by season. During the spring as people start to clean out the garage
and want to get rid of the bike because it is taking up space, want to sell the
bike in order to by a new camper (the reasons are endless,) the advertisements
start showing up like mosquitoes. Springtime brings a flood of bikes for sale,
and in general brings lower prices. Similarly, the end of summer usually brings
a rise in the bikes for sale, generally from those who either decided to sell
after one last season or those who asked what in the world they were thinking
when they bought something that must sit motionless in the garage for a third
of the year. All summer you will find people selling that didn't get the price
they wanted in the spring, people that want to beat the end of summer rush, and
many people selling in order to buy another bike themselves. During the winter
there are not too many ads for motorcycles, but those selling are usually very
motivated to sell. If you want more choices, wait for spring and summer, but certainly
keep an eye out during the fall and winter!

There
are many places to find ads for BMW motorcycles, in print, online, or even on
corkboards. Don't make the mistake of trying one, before another. Below is a list
of where and when to find ads (in my order of potential for success.)

Craig's List. Craig's
List has not only become the most active site to find people selling used bikes
and motorcycles, it has become the most active site for scammers too (see above...)
With that warning out of the way, it is a great place to find bikes. In general
I find folks advertise high and are willing to negotiate, but you can always find
folks selling a good bike at a fair price. One downside of Craig's List is that
you can only search by City - to get around this limitation you can either save
your searches by city as bookmarks or favorites and simply run down the list each
day, or come up with a simple little framed webpage like this
one I use that has links at the top and the corresponding Craig's List pages
at the bottom. As you can see I have my bike-buying radius set at about a 3-hour
drive - unfortunately the bikes you may want are not always next door.

The
Local BMW Club Newsletter. While this outlet often has more bikes listed,
they are priced higher, not only because the advertisement is typically free,
but because these owners tend to know the value of their bikes and on the whole
seem more concerned with the care of their bikes. Many club members are enthusiasts,
and rigorously follow maintenance and repair guidelines.

The
Internet. Places like the Internet BMW Riders'
"BMW Marketplace" and
ADVRider
are a haven of motorcycles of all types and years, though you may have to travel
to buy the one you want. Buying over the internet is quite similar to buying through
a National Club magazine like the BMW MOA
Owner's News in that one risks wasting money and time if the bike one travels
500 miles to buy is not exactly as the seller described over the telephone. If
you choose this route you will have many, many bikes from which to choose, though
you will have to rely much more on the word of the seller. A good trick to use
here is to ask for the seller's permission to speak to the dealer that services
the motorcycle. Any hesitation on the part of the seller should be viewed with
caution. The Internet and in general any non-local advertising venue demands extra
care on the part of the buyer. Not only is it expensive to fly to another part
of the country to look at a bike, there is often little recourse should something
happen once the buyer gets the bike home.

National
Clubs. The BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
has pages and pages of motorcycles for sale every month and a moderately active
online Flea Market. While there is a 6-week(!) advance time on the print
ads, the online ads go up immediately. The print and online ads are free to members
and you must be a member to view the online ads.

The
Local Newspaper. If your local paper generally runs ads on a three-day basis,
go pick it up Thursday night at your local 24/7 convenience store. If not, get
up early Friday, Saturday, & Sunday, call early, go look early. On more than
one occasion I had a bike sell between when I called and when I arrived to look
at the bike. You can't blame the seller, when someone offers what they want (or
what they need) in cash, they will sell. Period. The local paper is generally
not cheap so sellers are usually serious about selling and not just fishing for
a high price. The Internet has largely eclipsed print newspaper ads, though it
is still worth an occasional look.

Check
Your Local Dealer. No not for used bikes but either for a bulletin board or
for word of mouth. Many dealers provide a bulletin board for customers to post
bikes and equipment for sale. Remember that these boards are full of trollers.
A better source at the dealer is word of mouth from the employees. They often
hear of a customer wanting to sell a bike. Often you can get a shot at a great
bike before it is even advertised. Often times the mechanic who actually works
on and knows the bike best will fill you in on details the seller may not, or
may choose not to know.

Buy From
A Dealer. I left this last because I believe it is only a good option if you
either don't have the time or wish not to expend the energy to really look for
a bike. At the dealer you will pay more, period. Some dealers charge exorbitantly
high prices, some are actually quite reasonable. Again, refer to the NADA Used
Price Guide for the actual base value of the motorcycle. While particularly
with BMW Motorcycles the NADA guide is usually very pessimistic regarding prices,
it is often the best source for a place to start. On the positive side, dealers
will usually be pretty forthright about the condition of the bike, will usually
either have or be in the position to obtain service records, and will often offer
a short-term warranty that usually covers the drivetrain. Be wary of a dealer
that refuses to let you call the previous owner, that offers to fix any problems
but won't put that down on paper, or finally that offers to repair problems you
point out to him or her, but only after you purchase the bike.

Before
you start calling, you will need a little preparation. First, you'll need to collect
your pricing information. There are several places online to get an idea of the
fair price for a bike. Both Motorcycle
Consumer News(pdf) and Kelley's Blue Book
have excellent areas (though MCN's prices are more realistic.) You might also
want to take a look at the Internet BMW Rider's Online
Marketplace, the online MOA ads, and regional Craig's List for similiar bikes
for sale. You should also try to find a NADA Used Price Guide for motorcycles
and personal watercraft. Both of these publications will list prices for BMW motorcycles.
While the NADA guide often understates the real value of BMW motorcycles by around
25% to 40%, it does so consistently across the model range and besides, it is
what Insurance companies use to value bikes. Pay particular attention to bikes
advertised from your region of the country as these will most closely reflect
the price ceiling you should expect to pay.

You
should also establish the prices of various accessories by looking not only at
the prices for used items in the magazine's marketplace, but by calling both locally
and to nationally for the "new" prices. A quick example would be a Corbin
seat, which for a K75 can be bought used for between $75 and $150, new for $375,
and should add no more than about $100 to the bike when in "like new"
condition. A Ratty seat should take off the same amount as it will have
to be replaced. I have made the job of accessories a little easier in part V.
where the more common ones are listed with several valuing factors.

The
first call should never last more than three minutes. I say this because anything
beyond the make, model, year, general condition, a few questions about receipts
and maintenance, and a general feeling about the seller is a waste of time. If
you are going to spend your hard-earned money on a bike that you will have for
a while, you need to confirm virtually everything the seller tells you. The first
call is used mainly to separate the "definitely not" bikes from everything
else.Do ask for the VIN number and run it
through the NFIB's VinCHECK,
a database of vehicles that have been declared a loss or slavage, and through
one of the excellent VIN decoders like BMW-Z1
or RealOEM
to make sure that K75 standard was not at one time a K75RT that had been wrecked
and resurrected.

I urge you to go look
at every bike that is even remotely a candidate. There are some real hidden gems
out there, like the R100RS that I missed because someone bought it sight-unseen
while I was on a test-ride, and the K75S that I ended up buying. I have found
that many people know very little about the bikes they have been riding and are
selling. In the K75S' case, the seller incorrectly diagnosed a loose vacuum tube
and the accompanying rough idle as impending engine and fuel injection problems,
and squeaky front brakes as worn brake pads.

The
process of eliminating a bike as a candidate is simply one of verifying that the
bike is as advertised (i.e., is it really a K75S or a K75C with a fairing?), that
the owner holds a clear and legal title, and that the bike is in the neighborhood
of your acceptable condition. You also may want to ask that the owner have the
title ready for you to look over, that he or she have all maintenance receipts
and all accessories available for inspection.

b.
Going To Look At A Bike

1. The
Initial Examination. Bring the first-call worksheet, the closer inspection
worksheet, a notepad & pen, a small flashlight, a shop-rag, and a small toolkit
with at least a small socket set and both flat & Philips head screwdrivers
handy.

I would have rather called this
section "fishing for the big fib" because a test of truthfulness is
the first thing involved with looking at a used bike. When you consider buying
a used bike (or anything for that matter) you have to rely somewhat on the word
of the seller in assessing what it is worth to you. If I ask a question I already
know the answer to and the seller either lies or leaves things out, I know I should
be skeptical of any anything he or she says and assume the worst (especially with
oil changes and odometer readings). On the other hand, if the seller replies truthfully,
not only do I feel much better but I generally give him the benefit of the doubt.

It works like this, spend a few minutes looking
over the bike and find a flaw that would be obvious to the owner but not to a
first-time buyer. I always look for evidence of a drop-and-drag like fairly deep
scratches in the fairing, valve covers, frame, exhaust pipes, end weights or especially
brake or clutch handles. Failing that I look for leaks or other flaws like rotting
seat pans, jury-rigged repairs that will need to be redone, or even (once) bent
front fork tubes.

Once you have decided
on your obvious flaw, ask a question about it. For the K-75S I looked at with
exquisite new paint and masterfully hidden heat-welded cracks, I asked whether
it had ever been down. When I received the "absolutely never been down"
reply I didn't immediately leave because it was selling for a very good price.
I did decided not to make an offer however when the seller couldn't produce receipts
for work and service he swore he performed. You have to be the judge of the veracity
of the seller but I usually leave if I receive an outright lie, or demand proof
to back up all of the claims of the seller if he hedges, changes the subject or
doesn't give a complete answer.

Once
you have established whether the seller is fairly honest (I use fairly because
we all have a bit of "salesmanship" in us and things that others may
see as flaws we may see as character, etc.) or totally unreliable the time has
come to take a few steps back and take a look at the machine in front of you.
This initial examination is to record your initial impressions and to do a basic
safety check before you test-ride the bike. Write down anything and everything
that will effect what you are going to offer for this bike.

2.
The Test Ride: The test ride is as important as the close inspection, if not
more so. Start with a basic safety check - tires, brakes, leaks, loose fittings,
lights, horn. Does the bike start and idle easily? Any rattles or hesitations?
If it is warm, is the idle enrichment (aka choke) still needed anyway? During
the test ride you will have to listen very carefully and pay close attention to
the "feel" of the bike because most of the problems that can not be
seen by examining the bike can be discovered through the test riding procedure.
At some point during the ride open up/thwack the throttle after hitting second
gear and again in third gear - if it pops out of gear or has difficulty downshifting,
see below. Make sure the tach and speedo are functioning normally, that the ABS
self-check has completed normally, and that the cluster lights are all functioning
normally. Pay particular attention to the smooth delivery of power, any backfiring
or irregularities in power delivery, pulsing or vibration from the brakes or through
the handlebars, the gear indicator accurately listing the gear, and listen to
make sure the fan comes on at some point. Does it pull when you hit the brakes?
Any odd flexing in the frame, do the handlebars line up correctly when riding
in a straight line? Read the "Closer Inspection" below carefully before
you head out, many of the things you will be looking for pop up during the test
ride.

3. The Closer Inspection: This
is time for the closer inspection. The success (or failure) of this examination
will answer the big questions posed by this section: Should I walk away, have
a mechanic look at it, do I feel confident it has been well-tended? In general,
you should not closely examine a bike until after having ridden it for at least
15 minutes. During this very careful examination of the bike ask a lot of questions
and listen to the answers - does this seller know his or her bike, does he or
she know about oil changes and spline lubes, how many miles per set of tires,
even the names of the wrenches at the local BMW shop? Lastly, make a note of the
VIN number if you did not get it during the first call so you can later run it
through the NFIB's VinCHECK,
a database of vehicles that have been declared a loss or slavage, and through
one of the excellent VIN decoders like BMW-Z1
or RealOEM
to make sure that K75 standard was not at one time a K75RT that had been wrecked
and resurrected.

1. The
Frame. Look extremely closely at ALL major weld points. While welds rarely
go bad, it is not unheard of and certainly difficult to find until major damage
has resulted. Pay particular attention to frame-welds and other evidence of frame
repair. As with most structural repairs, the fix is rarely as strong as the original
and could cause big problems down the road. Also make sure to closely look at
the frame around the center stand. This area is prone to breakage. Lastly, put
the bike on the centerstand and make sure the fairing panels are straight, and
that the rear mudflap is centered on the rear tire.

2.
The Wheels. Wheels are unfortunately often overlooked in assessing a used
motorcycle. Wheels are quite expensive to replace and many say dangerous to repair.
Often a problem can not be "felt" at normal test drive speeds, only
at the higher "highway" speeds so careful inspection is absolutely required.
There are three major items to inspect.

The first is whether the wheel is damaged
from hitting debris, curbs, animals, the list is as long as there are
things that can end up in a road. Carefully inspect the wheel for any
bulges, dings or "waves" in the flow of the metal. Run your
fingers around the outside of the rims of each side of the tire at the
same time, feeling carefully for any deviation or ever so slight change
in the arc or width. Put the bike on the centerstand and spin the wheel
while feeling each side's rims - any deviation? Especially with alloy
wheels, are there any gouges or scrapes that would indicate an impact?
Should you find a problem with a wheel, make a very descriptive note of
where on the wheel and the extent of the damage for estimating whether
to repair and how much it would cost.The
Second is whether the wheel has been damaged and repaired. The jury is
still out on whether the practice of repairing or "straightening"
wheels is acceptable. While some scoff at the idea that repairing damaged
wheels is unsafe, many cast dire predictions of straightened wheels shattering
like glass or failing "at speed". It is your call on whether
it is acceptable, and you'll probably have to take the seller's word on
whether it has been done or not.The
last thing to check is whether the bike has tubeless tires on wheels designed
for tubed tires. Again, the practice of running tubeless on wheels designed
for tubed tires is acceptable to some, though I think more than not will
tell you it is dangerous because the tire can not "seat" properly.

Wheel bearings on these bikes often need
replacing in the 50k to 60k range. You can evaluate them by putting the
bike on the center stand with the weight on the rear wheel, and with a
helper holding the handlebars and putting hands on the wheel from one
side in the 9 and 3 o'clock positions giving the wheel a push/pull - any
give could mean failing bearings.

3.
The Brakes. Did the brakes work correctly when you rode the bike? Any vibration
or pulsing could mean warped rotors, an easy but not inexpensive fix. With the
bike on the centerstand, do the wheels turn easily with no grabbing at certain
points - a sign of either warped rotors or the need for a caliper or master cylinder
rebuild? Are the rotors clean with no cracks or signs of uneven wear? Did the
brake pedals snap back when you let go? If the levers stick or are slow to return
this could mean an expensive master cylinder rebuild is required. For ABS equipped
bikes, there are two self-tests. When you start the bike the two lights should
blink in unison. If they blink alternately, the initial self-test failed. After
riding 15 or so feet you will notice a "ka-chunk" noise, this is the
second ABS self-test and is normal, the lights should go out with the successful
completion of this test and alternatively blink in unison at this point for a
failure. A failure could run the gamut from either an expensive fault in the ABS
brain to an easy and no-cost adjustment of the ABS sensor. Lastly, check the brake
hoses as they can degrade and swell over time requiring replacement, and the brake
resevoirs as they can also degrade, become chalky and ultimately crack and fail,
especially the rear.

4.
The Cluster. The guages and indicator lights should all work correctly with
the speedo and tech needles moving smoothly and accurately. If they seem to stick
at certain points the faceplate in the cluster could be warped. Any jumping or
skipping could be a sign of a failing sensor or guage. In 1998 BMW added Gore-tex
vents to the cluster to combat fogging from water intrustion - any condensation
on the inside of the cluster is a harbinger of more expensive issues following.
The yellow triangle light should go out when activating both front and rear brake
- if it stays lit you either have a bulb out or on its way out, a wiring issue,
or a poorly-installed aftermarket brake light enhancement.

5.
"I Only Dropped It Once, in a Parking Lot." Boy is this a tough
one. All right, check the footpegs, mirrors, brake & clutch levers for scrapes
or "sanded" patches, the fairing for cracks, scrapes or chips, engine
case guards for scrapes & chips, turn signals for loose or broken mounts &
mounting tabs, and a front and rear look at the fairing and tail to ensure that
the mounts are not bent and the fairing is lined up and mounted correctly. Even
minor drops or "fall-overs" can result in serious but hidden damage
so check carefully. Sit on the bike and make sure the handlebars are not tweaked.

Concentrate
on the following:

Is
there any rash or any gouges on the ends of the footpegs or handlebars (grips
or bar-end weights?) One of these two and often both will almost always contact
the ground in a drop and usually the evidence is obvious. That said, footpegs
and bar-end weights/grips are inexpensive to replace so don't stop there.

Is
the fairing straight? Many times a fall over will slightly bend a fairing mount,
not enough to be obvious but enough to effect the integrity of the fairing (which,
especially with the K75S, is made up of several pieces all relying on correct
alignment) not to mention the value of the bike.

Are
any of the fairing mounts damaged? Behind the turn signal on a K75S is a point
where three fairing pieces come together and are joined through two screws. Either
of the three fairing pieces can be damaged (cracked, or even missing!) without
it being completely obvious. Check *every* fairing mount if you see any sign of
fairing stress, or check them anyway if you have time.

Are
there any (cleverly?) hidden cracks or other flaws?: Take your flashlight (you
did remember to bring it didn't you) and thoroughly examine as much of the inside
of the fairing pieces as you can. Look carefully for any evidence of plastic welding,
fiberglass bonding, epoxy work, etc. Look down the fairing pieces from the sides
and look for any ripples or ridges, if you find any look very carefully at the
inside of the fairing.

6.
Tires. Take a close
look at the tires - are there any flat spots, cracks or dry-rot? New tires can
run $400 and as they are the only thing between your bike and the road, it is
best to replace them quickly if needed. Check the date
code on the sidewall - it should be a four-digit code signifying the month
and date of the manufacture of the tire. For example, "3405" would be
the 34th week of 2005. The four-digit code may or may not be precedede by two
more letters - these are manufacturer-specific and can be ignored. If it is a
3-digit number your tire was manufactured before 2000 and should be replaced as
it is at least 10 years old.

7. Those Pesky Leaking Fluids. You
will need to run it for a while for this one, you might even want to wait
for until after the test ride if the bike has been recently cleaned. Pay
particular attention to the more expensive leaks to fix, around the timing
cover, the seal between the engine and transmission, around or through
the alternator, any irregular leak at the oil pan (could be warped), leaks
in and around the head gaskets, or leaks at the forks or around any of
the brake hose or coolant hose connections. Make sure to check fluid fill
and drain plugs for both leaks and soundness of bolts, paying particular
attention to the Oil and Coolant drain plugs. If the bike has a belly
pan, remove it (easy) and look for oil and coolant leaks around the oil/water
pump, leaks of either coolant or oil could mean a pump seal replacement
is needed. Lastly,examine the tank very closely along the bottom ridges
for pinhole leaks, especially on bikes that have sat for a while.

8. Spark Plugs.
If you feel confident and the seller allows you, pull one of the sparkplugs and
closely inspect it. If you have access to a Clymer's manual, bring it with you
as there is a great diagnostics page with detailed photographs of differing conditions
of spark plugs and what abnormalities could mean. Here
is a quick online version. Spark plugs are a great indicator of undiagnosed problems
with the bike, from leaky injectors to major ignition malfunctions (remember,
with fuel injected bikes many things that would show up immediately on a carburated
bike will be masked by the ability of the FI to compensate for minor variations
- both a good thing and not such a good thing...)

9.
Splines & Transmission. If the seller does not have a receipt from the
dealer showing this critical "clutch-back spline lube" service has been
completed you must assume it has not been done and figure the $350 to $500 service
into the cost of the bike or an afternoon or two to do it yourself. There are
three spline areas to consider (in order of both ease of accessing and increasing
cost to repair) - the final drive spline located where the driveshaft in the swingarm
meets the final drive below the rear shock, the output spline located in the swingarm
where the other end of the driveshaft meets the transmission, and the clutch spline
inside the transmission. Oftentimes people will do a "final drive spline
lube" which involves cleaning and lubing the splines at each end of the driveshaft,
but neglect the important (and expensive) clutch spline. Quite simply, take the
time to bring a bike with questionable Splines to a dealer to have the Splines
checke

Final Drive Splines - The final
drive splines are the most frequent point of spline failure. If you have the time
and the seller will allow, remove the final drive to inspect the final drive and
drive shaft splines. You can do this in 20 minutes with a bungi cord, something
to prop up the swingarm like a tool box or block of wood, and the tools in the
bike's tool kit - either bring along an experienced friend or thoroughly familiarize
yourself with the procedure by reading the tech articles on the IBMWR K-Bike Tech/Drivetrain
area. Here
is a good article on what failed splines look like. Replacing a K-Bike final drive
and driveshaft with good used parts will run at least $300, new, well, you don't
even want to know. Bruno's in Canada can repair final drive splines, but the price
is more than just buying a good, used unit.

Interior Splines - It is important to note
here that K-bike shifting tends to be a bit klunky by nature and requires
firm and purposeful shifting, the bike should nevertheless go into gear
smoothly and not pop out of gear. When you ride the bike, if it is difficult
to downshift (well, more difficult than normal) or finds false neutrals,
this is a red flag for the need for a spline lube and/or a closer look
at the transmission. Pull in the clutch and let it go - it should snap
right back. If it doesn't or is slow to return, that could be an indicator
of the need for a trans input shaft lube.

Transmission
- Check the gear shift lever, there should be no play. If the bike has difficulty
going in to second gear or pops out - there is a little set screw that secures
the gear shift lever inside the transmission that rarely comes loose, when it
does it requires removing the transmission (think $$$). Clutch and gear shifting
issues can run the gamut from a poorly-adjusted clutch cable to a worn clutch
or bent/broken dogs and gears. In general if the bike ever pops out of gear, especially
during a WOT run in second or third gear, do not buy the bike unless you have
a good line on a used transmission or have the time to disect and inspect it.

10.
Cracks, Chips and Faded Paint. Motorcycle fairing pieces are generally very
difficult to repair and are often among the most expensive items on a motorcycle
to replace. I have heard of more than one bike totaled due to entirely cosmetic
damage. Before dismissing minor damage to a fairing piece, make sure to contact
a dealer to get the true cost of replacing the damaged piece. Motorcycles are
also expensive to repaint (usually at least $1,000) so make sure you either can
live with any faded or discolored paint, or figure the cost or repair into the
deal.

11. Wiring & Switches,
Or Lack Thereof. People love to customize motorcycles. Unfortunately this
often means irrevocable changes to such necessary things as wiring and electrical
connections. The first thing to look for is the dreaded "Scotch-Lock",
a light blue or red plastic device that usually has two wires in one side and
one on another. This is an easy (and short-term) solution to splicing wires, and
they often fail in the trying conditions on a motorcycle. Any nonstandard wiring
that was added with anything less than the OEM factory procedures is bound to
fail (and cause you major headaches.) Look for soldering or high-quality wiring
connectors on any non-standard electrical work. Also keep an eye out for chaffed
or abraded wiring (the most frequent cause is replacing zip-ties after adding
new wiring to a bundle or moving or re-routing wiring.) Pay attention to wiring
around fairing pieces and especially the seat. Check the switchgear on the handlebars,
they often get a bit chalky but should work correctly and usually clean right
up with a bit of Vinylex cleaner then protector. How about the red-in-green starter
and kill switch? Pay attention to the ignition switch - if the bike sputters or
dies when you wiggle the key it could mean the need to clean/repair or replace.
Note, if the right switchgear has a yellow slide switch that turn the headlights
off and on, someone has at some point replaced the switch gear with the European
verson - a nice upgrade! Lastly, with the engine OFF stick your screwdriver in
and give the fan blade a spin - if it is frozen, as they sometimes are, replacement
is a few hours and a $150 or so part.

12.
The Fuel System. Open the gas cap and peer inside the tank with the flashlight
- is there any debris or "mud" at the bottom of the tank? The rubber
surround cushioning the fuel pump sometimes begins to break down and fail, especially
with bikes that have been sittingfor long periods, it is not hard but somewhat
expensive (~$80) to replace. Also check the fuel hoses inside the tank, these
too can swell, crack and fail. Check the high-pressure fuel hoses leading to and
from the injectors, there should be no swelling or cracking especially near hose
clamps. Lastly, carefully examine the seams at the bottom of the tank, there should
be no cracking or corrosion.

13. Hoses
and Rubber. Check the main coolant hose leading out of the right-side engine
cover, there should be no evidence of swelling or cracking or amny "sponginess."
On the left side of the bike check the elbow crankcase vent hose, these can fail
and cause problems but are easy and inexpensive to replace. As mentioned, carefully
inspect all brake and fuel lines. At idle does the bike rattle? Is the sound coming
from the rear of the engine? The rubber "monkey nuts" that cushion the
alternator drive sometimes fail - an inexpensive but time-consuming repair. Lastly,
carefully check the little 4" or so crankcase breather hose on the left-side,
top rear of the engine - these must be replaced ever five years or so, failure
can let unmetered air into the system leading to lean condition evidenced by rough
running and poor idling.

14. Handlebars. Check the handlebars
for any awkward bends or non-symetry, they are often the first victim
of a bike drop. With the bike on the centerstand, sit on the bike with
the weight on the rear wheel and center the bars, they should easily and
smoothly go side to side - any notchiness could mean a failed steering
head bearing and stiffness or binding on some K75 models could mean a
need for a cleaning and repacking (using hard to find grease) of the fluidbloc
steering dampner. Are the mirrors secure? How about the grips and switrchgear?

15.
A Sniff Here, A Sniff There. Use your nose (it often knows...) Take off
the oil fill cap and smell the oil. Does it smell like oil? If you smell gas this
could mean anything from a stuck injector to a malfunctioning FI computer (pulling
and inspecting the plugs will tell you whether it is an injector.) Do you smell
antifreeze? That is also bad and could mean a bad seal and possibly a new engine.

16.
It Went In Clean. Check all the fluids and fluid containers (this is
where the flashlight pays off.) You should easily be able to see:

the
brake fluid through the fill window in the front and the reseviour in the rear.
Is it clean and the color of iced tea? Dark or cloudy brake fluid could
signal abuse and neglect, and could mean bigger problems ahead.

the
engine oil through the fill window. Engine oil usually turns much darker just
a few minutes in a running engine after it has been changed. However, is it simply
too dark? Is it cloudy? Is the oil properly filled? The site glass may be discolored,
if so use the fill hole and a flashlight.

the
inside of the gas tank. Look for water at the bottom (gas will float on
top of the water leaving it looking like bubbles of air under clear ice.) Does
the filter look like it has been replaced recently? Is there any residue at the
bottom of the tank (sometimes ethanol-mix gasoline will dissolve the seals in
K-Bike gas tanks if left sitting for extended periods of time.)

the
coolant overflow reservoir. Check this carefully as in my experience changing
the coolant every other year, while one of the more important maintenance items,
is often overlooked. The coolant should be clear and clean. If it is cloudy or
dirty, carefully inspect the maintenance receipts for coolant changes using silicate
and phosphate free antifreeze. BMW is also quite specific about the proper ratio
between coolant and (distilled) water - make sure the owner knew this if he has
done his own maintenance. If there is any evidence of oil in the anti-freeze you'll
in all likleyhood need to rebuuild the water pump with new seals and possibly
a new shaft.

17. "I Want
Your Maintenance Receipts." We've been over this, but for clarity's sake,
if you don't have it on paper in front of you, assume it was note done. Period.
Also remember that you'll need these receipts when you go to sell the bike so
make sure they are part of the bargain. Lastly, receipts perform the critical
function of ensuring the mileage is accurate - especially on the pre-1998 Gore-tex
cluster bikes the clusters infrequently failed and were replaced by clusters from
bikes being parted out (and the bike's mileage changed to whatever the mileage
of the donor bike. )

18. Faith In Odometers. This is an
easy one Unless you have trustworthy receipts that show a distinct
timeline of maintenance where the mileage corresponds with the dates don't
have any. It is too easy to forget to fix the flaky odometer, keep the
odometer replacement receipt, etc., until it is time to sell the bike.
Further, even though the current owner may have kept everything and be
able to certify all of his miles, what about the previous owner? Repair
receipts usually list the mileage. Not to be any more cynical about
sellers then the next person, but closely examine the receipt mileage
for the proper pattern of mileage on the bike. Many of these bikes had
clusters replaced at some point, often resetting mileage to zero - receipts
can help determine wether the bike has the 40k miles shown or 90k miles
actual.

19. The Chain
of Ownership. Look VERY carefully on a seller who has owned the bike for a
short period of time. While there are many out there who have bought a motorcycle
only to find it does not fit their needs, there are at least as many who have
bought a bike only to find it needs unexpected or hidden expensive repairs.

At
this point you must ask yourself three very important questions. If you answer
"No" to any of them, pass on the bike and keep looking elsewhere.

Are you absolutely sure that the
engine and transmission are in good shape and that there are not unidentified
noises, no unexplained leaks or other anomalies with the smooth operation of either?
If you have narrowed your search down you have probably seen several of the particular
model you may be examining and have a good idea of what sounds and feels normal
and what does not. Never, ever accept "It has always done that" from
the seller.

Does the seller have all
of the ownership papers including a free and clear title, registration & inspection
papers? Make sure the owner shows you the title before going any further, and
check it carefully to make sure that the VIN numbers match the bike, that there
are no liens, that the title does not indicate that the bike
has been totaled out somewhere along the line, and for anything else strange (names
& addresses the same as given and further, on the registration & inspection?.)
At this point run
the VIN through the NCIB and through a
VIN Decoder if you haven't already. Does the model of the bike on the title
match the model advertised & the model you have seen? Many near totaled or
totaled faired bikes are stripped to the "standard" model and brought
back to life.

Has the seller freely
allowed you to thoroughly inspect the bike, to talk to the person who has maintained
the bike, to look over service receipts, and to listen to the engine run and the
transmission operate? Any reluctance on the part of a seller to accede to any
of your requests should be viewed as one big, fat red flag.

You
like the bike, it has passed your first inspection and the seller has showed you
the paperwork? Move on Grasshopper .

NOTE:
If you *really* like what you see, consider making the "wild stab."
The wild stab is the first offer, namely a low cash offer. Generally, The wild
stab works by offering the owner about 50% to 60% of what he or she is asking,
and offering it in cash prominently displayed under the seller's nose. While this
tactic is not for everyone and is not favorably looked upon by many, it just may
work.

b. The Big
Decision - Do I Go For It or Wait?

Hopefully
you have looked at at least several bikes are pretty sure you know what you want.
If you have any nagging second thoughts, skip the bike and keep looking. If you
buy a bike with which you are not entirely comfortable you will probably end up
selling it for a loss to get the money to buy the bike for which you have been
really looking. (Inevitably it will show up in the next week's classifieds.)

1. Price.a. First,
can you afford it? Remember to always add around 15% of the purchase price of
a motorcycle to cover the fun things like tax, title, tags, registration, inspection
& insurance. This of course is a rule of thumb and you should at least call
your insurance agent to inquire about the difference in the cost of your motorcycle
coverage for the addition of the bike. Also figure in the cost of a complete level
II tune-up (and then get it done!) If the seller has documented service records
showing no maintenance required, figure in a fluid-set change (engine, fork, tranny,
brake & final drive) and get that done after the purchase.b.
Second, is it priced fairly? Remember to figure in mileage, maintenance records,
extra equipment, collision history, and general condition.

2.
Patience. Are you deciding to buy this because you know it is the right bike,
or because it is the right bike, right now? If you are like most motorcycle riders,
you are buying this bike to ride for a while. While Jay Leno may be able to afford
a stable of motorcycles, most of us will never own more than one or two at a time
and buying a bike you may not like because you want it now is a terrible trap
to fall into. You will inevitably end up wanting something else and losing money
and time trying to buy it.

3. Success.
Well, you like it, it is mechanically sound and you like the cosmetics, you have
a reliable maintenance history, you can afford it AND it is what you have been
seeking .Congratulations! You will probably get to this point at least
once before actually succeeding in buying a bike.

c.
The Negotiation & Messy Legal Stuff to Think About

So,
you've decided to buy the bike.

Step
one is of course to call the seller and tell him you want to buy it. Don't play
around here, I lost a bike I really wanted because I told the seller I was "interested"
hoping it would strengthen my negotiating position. Your best bet is to come right
out and tell him you want to buy it, then ask for a time to meet to discuss the
details of the sale. If the seller wants a price right there, tell him or her
you want to look at the bike again before you fix firmly on a price. Never, ever
give a firm offer over the phone, ever. There are simply too many details, such
as exactly what accessories are included, to settle it over the phone.
Of course this is predicated on the deal itself; if you are buying a bike that
has never been uncrated the sale could be easily concluded over the phone. Most
of us however, will have deals that include a helmet or two, accessories like
a cover and a battery charger, the list goes on. It is far better to have these
items spread out before you as you negotiate than to argue over what was included
when you go to pick up the bike. Make an appointment to negotiate a sale and don't
be late. Common sense of course applies, if the seller wants you to bring cash
don't arrange to meet in a deserted parking lot at night. I personally would not
even bother to look at a bike unless it was at the seller's house; I would wonder
why a seller wouldn't want me to know where he or she lived ..

Step
two is to prepare for buying the bike. First, how does the seller want to be paid?
Cash is the easiest, but a check offers you more protection should something go
amiss. I found half by check and half by cash was suitable to reasonable sellers,
the more cautious will often offer to meet at a bank to do the transfer in cash.
Whatever the method of payment, be sure to bring the asking price and be ready
to negotiate down from there. Now is NOT the time to lowball, the seller
is taking a chunk of time from his day to sell you a bike you have told him you
want to buy. Making this appointment in order to make a wild stab offer is not
only dishonest, it certainly will not do much for your reputation in the (normally
very tight) BMW motorcycle circles. Be ready to negotiate, but negotiate fairly.

Step three involves insurance. Call your insurance
agent and ask how much it would be to add the bike to your plan (or if you are
not insured, to get motorcycle insurance.) If you are successful in buying the
bike you WILL want to activate the insurance immediately before
signing that Bill of Sale and title. Get 20 riders in a room and you will inevitably
hear at least one story of someone who paid big bucks for a bike and wrecked it
on the way home to call and have the insurance put into effect. Make sure you
are covered the second you buy the bike ..period.

Step
four is to do a little research and put a little negotiating kit together. Ask
the insurance agent how they value the bike. This is often up to 35% less then
the going market rate, and a good negotiating chip. Have the agent fax you a copy
of the relevant page of the valuing guide and bring this with you. Make sure you
have checked the MCN and
KBB online guides, print out the relevant sheets
and add them to the file. Also, don't forget to photocopy and add to your file
recent ads for similiar bikes from regional Craig's Lists, the BMW MOA Owner's
News and IBMWR Marketplace.
Be ready to back up your offer with this material if the seller balks at what
you consider to be a fair price.

Lastly,
the legal stuff. There are several things you must do, and a few you must not.

1. The Bill Of Sale. First of all, prepare
a "Bill of Sale" before you go to conclude the sale. Sample,
may not be applicable in your jurisdiction. Basically, you need to have a
description of the bike and included equipment, the date of sale, the amount and
type of consideration , seller's name, address and telephone number, your name
address and telephone number, the VIN number off of the bike. Make sure to check
not only the number off of the frame of the bike, usually at either/both the steering
head and the left-hand cross-member below the seat, but also on the engine. In
some jurisdictions, having different numbers on the frame and on the engine will
cause problems. If you do not have any of the information handy, leave a blank
and pen it in when you meet with the seller. Do not feel bad about asking the
seller for his drivers license, if he or she refuses, walk away.

2.
The Title. The title should be free of any liens, should show NO signs of
tampering whatsoever, should clearly indicate the owner's name and address, and
finally should be absolutely free of tears, staple holes, etc. I spent a total
of about 15 hours trying to replace a slightly torn title for a bike I bought.
I spent over $40 just Federal Expressing documents back and forth with the owner
(after I was finally able to track him down.) Make sure to check the names and
numbers against the Bill of Sale, the mileage and that the owner's signature matches
that on his or her license (you did get to look at his or her license didn't you?!?)
Look carefully for "NAM" - aka, "Not Actual Mileage." If you
see this all bets are off and you should be a little peeved it was not mentioned
up front. Lastly, compare the VIN on the Title with the actual VIN on the frame
of the bike to make sure they match.

3.
Documents. Make sure the seller has at least the Title and the registration
(and that all the numbers match.) This is also the time to make sure you have
in front of you all of the maintenance records, and anything else you have been
promised or you have asked for.

4.
The Exchange. Before you hand the money over, make sure all incidentals have
been identified and are available for you to take home with the bike, and that
you and the seller have signed both your and his copies of the Bill of Sale and
the Title, (and the registration if your state requires it.)

d.
Congratulations On Your New Bike.

Make
sure you have all the items that went with the bike (including all receipts, gear,
and anything else promised by the seller), and all of the legal papers (properly
signed!). Being lax on any of these "must-do's" will only bring you
headaches as people usually have much more incentive to make good on a promise
when they haven't yet been paid, then after the money is safely in the bank..

The Ride Home. The only real last thing to
consider is whether to leave the bike and go to the local DMV or ask the owner
to let you borrow the license plate so that you can ride home without having to
worry about being stopped for not having one. I'd recommend the first, though
I know many who don't see any problems with the second.

It
Is All Mine. If you haven't already, take the bike by your local BMW shop for
a quick safety check. While you should have performed this basic inspection BEFORE
even sitting on the bike, it is prudent to have a second set of eyes confirm your
findings. Also, if you are not the wrench or don't have the time, have all
the fluids, filters, spark plugs & crush washers replaced and the splines
lubed (unless of course there is verifiable records of this service at a reputable
BMW shop.) That said, if you do have the time buy a Clymer's manual and check
out the IBMWR K-Bike Tech section
and do it yourself, for the most part the fluid services are easy and it is a
good way to get to know your new bike. It is far, far better to begin ownership
of a motorcycle not only knowing it inside and out, but also being confident that
all maintenance is up to date. Check out my "New
Owner's Guide" for some more in-depth information.

Lastly,
wash the bike. Once you have performed all of the required regular maintenance
and washed it, it is truly yours.

Hard Bags &
Mounts - there were three styles made for first and second generation K-bikes,
each significantly better than the prior. The first had straps for handles and
flat locks, the second had straps for handles and round lock cylinders, and the
third have an actual plastic handle and round lock cylinders. Generally used sets
with mounts are not easy to come by in decent condition and run about $300 and
up. For many the side cases are a Must, if you buy a bike without them
you will come to want them.

Heated
Grips - make sure to check these actually heat, the very fine wires are too often
the victim of over-enthusiastic wrenching. Cost to upgrade is at least $175.

Alarm
- nice to have but if it fails you will be left on the side of the road. Many
view this as a negative that should be removed.

1.
Why No liens?A lien on a motorcycle
is basically a right to exercise an ownership right over a bike and for the most
part the result of a loan made for the purchase of the bike or a failure to pay
taxes. Dealing with liens can be a simple or it can be a real box of fireworks.
For now, the prudent course of action would be to leave a deposit on the bike
and contact the financial institution or taxing authority to find the best way
to have the title cleared for transfer. In many cases the lien holder will hold
the actual title, making it difficult to verify information given by the seller.

2.
Thanksto the following people for pointing out mistakes
and errors, or suggesting new content: