I have been using my JP06101 for a couple years now and was trying to edge joint a 4’ board. The result was a convex “belly” edge. I grabbed my Veritas straight-edge and began checking my infeed/outfeed table alignment. Unfortunately, the tip of the infeed table is lower and not coplanar than the surface at the blade. A “picture” to clarify…

I have read the manual thoroughly a few times and it provides no clue for adjusting tilt. It only covers adjusting the height of the outfeed table and adjusting the “gibs” to take out the play in the infeed/outfeed tables.

For anyone interested…I contacted Ridgid support and explained the situation. Unfortunately, they were very clear in their response that the jointer is not capable of those adjustments. Therefore, I am going to get a price estimate from a Ridgid service center (HD in my case) and report back.

First I want to say that Ridgid technical support has been very friendly and helpful. However, I am choosing to forgo sending my tool to Ridgid because, based on my discussions, this amount of variance is apparently considered acceptable. The support personnel were unable to find any engineering specs but one of the senior technicians stated that not only was this acceptable, but if I did send in my jointer, the tables may return in worse shape. I will pursue my only methods for improving the alignment … or I will be selling a slightly-used jointer soon.

I don’t have that jointer, so I could be talking out of my … But if you can adjust the gibs to tighten the clearances, it seems like you could loosen them and slide a shim in. Might take a little trial and error, but you might be able to dial it in.

With the spec’s shown in your diagram , I would think technique would be the cause . You’re at zero where the board enters and exits the knives , all the way to the end.If your knives are properly set , then that only leaves procedure.Your tables are almost 4’ wide , so that rules out unsupported material.

Remove the table and epoxy a 1” long shim at the bottom of the ramp on the base. It might take a few dry fits with different thickneses before you get the right the right reading, but it will work. I would start with a shim about .003 thick.

It took a lot of trial and error but I have significantly improved the alignment of the tables with shims, as suggested by ShipWreck and jmos. While more difficult to adjust due to the position of the gibs, I chose to shim the outfeed table since it would remain stationary. The biggest difficulty I faced was trying to get the outfeed table tightened back into the same position as I was previously measuring it. Sometimes, it would shift right/left/up/down but never exactly the same. With all of that said, I now have 3 corners perfectly true and one that is .003” too low.

After going thru this process though, I would recommend that anyone in the market for a jointer be well informed about the procedure for making the tables co-planar. Spending a day messing with shims and pulling out your hair will quickly make you loathe your tool.