Sunday, 19 July 2015

The Gates of Paradise in Cambridge at Owlstone Croft, once known as Paradise Garden and now part of Queens’ College (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2015)

Patrick Comerford

The song “I’ve Never Been to Me” is probably better known by its chorus line: “I’ve been to Paradise, but I’ve never been to me.” This ballad, written by Ron Miller and Kenneth Hirsch in the 1970s, became a hit for the American singer Charlene when it was re-released in 1982, and the song went to top of the charts in the US, Canada, Australia, Britain and Ireland.

The song tells the story of a singer or star who addresses to a desperate wife and mother who would like to trade her prosaic existence for the jet-setting lifestyle the song’s narrator has led. The narrator recalls the many hedonistic episodes in her life, including times on the Greek islands. She describes our images of Paradise as “a lie” and as “a fantasy we create about people and places as we’d like them to be.” Instead, now that it is too late, she realises that Paradise is found in holding a baby in your arms, or being with the people you love and the people who love you.

And while she concludes that she has “been to Paradise,” ultimately she has failed to find self-fulfilment: “I’ve been to Paradise, but I’ve never been to me.”

But earlier today, I was in another, different and pleasant Paradise in Cambridge. I was at the morning Eucharist celebrated by the Revd Anna Matthews in Saint Bene’t’s Church, beside Corpus Christi College in the centre of Cambridge. There was a Baptism too, and it was enjoyable to return on a Sunday morning to the church that I have come to feel is my own parish church each year in when I am staying in Sidney Sussex College at the annual summer school organised by the Institute for Orthodox Christian Studies.

Saint Bene’t’s and Corpus Christi College are close to the corner of Trumpington Street and Silver Street, and after a very late breakfast I found my way down to the River Cam at Scudamore’s, below Silver Street Bridge, and strolled on along the west bank of the river, with Coe Fen to my left on the other side, through Sheep’s Green, passing Crusoe Island and Crusoe Bridge, before eventually a small bridge to reach Paradise Nature Reserve.

Paradise can be a fantasy we create ... but it is also an island on the River Cam south of Cambridge on the way to Grantchester (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2015)

Today, Paradise is a small island in the nature reserve on the west bank of the River Cam, south of Sheep’s Green and west of Coe Fen. But at one time Paradise referred to the whole area up to the Lammas Land.

Paradise nature reserve is a meadow that has been left to turn into woodland, with huge willows and towering alders. In its informal, unkempt state this is an attractive area for walkers and anglers. Some open areas have a variety of fen plants, such as Stachys palustris, and there is an important collection of different species of willow too.

A recent report recommended Paradise should be maintained and not allowed to get further overgrown, and it said Cambridgeshire Wildlife Trust had taken this in hand. It also said new pollard trees should be started along the river bank to replace trees that had fallen into the river. The paths which can be muddy in winter, are the nearest rough ground to the middle of Cambridge and should not be levelled or hardened, the report said, but broadwalks would be useful in places to prevent erosion.

The references to Paradise go back a long time. The earliest mention of bathing in Cambridge records that while he was a student at King’s College, the son of Walter Haddon was drowned in 1567 “while washing himself in a Place in the River Cham called Paradise.”

While he was at Corpus Christ College, the 18th century antiquarian, William Stukeley, wrote in 1704: “I used to frequent, among other lads, the river in Sheep’s Green, and learnt to swim in Freshman’s and Soph’s Pools, as they are called, and sometimes in Paradise, reckoning it a beneficial exercise.”

Byron’s friend Charles Skinner Matthews became entangled in weeds and drowned in the River Cam at Paradise Island (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2015)

It was here too, on 3 August 1811, that Lord Byron’s brilliant but enigmatic and libertine friend, Charles Skinner Matthews became entangled in weeds while bathing and was drowned.

Paradise Garden was once the name of the larger area now called Owlstone Croft, and it now provides post-graduate accommodation for Queens’ College. In 1740, Paradise Garden was taken over by a Mr Rowe, who had introduced to Cornwall a system of force-growing early vegetables for the London market. At Paradise Garden, he produced them in a scientific way.

Rowe’s son Richard became associated with a Dutch bulb grower, outstripped all competitors in the production of beautiful flowers, and invented the hyacinth glass for growing bulbs in water only.

Owlstone Croft ... once known as Paradise Garden and now part of Queens’ College (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2015

By 1802, the site was known as Owlstone Croft and in the Grantchester Parish Enclosure Award that year it was described as a garden of 2.24 acres, owned by Mary Harrison, “in the Occupation of R[ichar]d Row.”

The streets now known as Grantchester Street, extending to Paradise Island, and Grantchester Meadows are the only streets shown on that map, along with a branch from Grantchester Street to what is now Owlstone Croft. This branch survives today as a track for part of its length, connecting to the south end of Owlstone Road, which did not exist then.

Paradise is a meadow that has turned into woodland (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2015)

The branch road connecting Grantchester Street to Owlstone Croft was then described as: “One other private carriage and drift road of the like breadth of twenty feet leading from … [Grantchester Street] and extending … through and over an allotment [now part of Paradise Nature Reserve], hereinafter awarded to the said Master, Fellows and Scholars of Benet College [Corpus Christi] into the said garden ground [Owlstone Croft] belonging to Mary Harrison, now in the tenure of Richard Rowe ...”

When it was sold at auction in 1879, the site plan was headed: “Plan of an Estate at Grantchester, Cambs, known as ‘Paradise’.”

The Chief Constable of the Cambridgeshire County Police, a Major Calvert, bought the estate in 1879, when the grounds were described as “not to be surpassed in the neighbourhood for growth and beauty,” with “choice fruit trees.” The house was rebuilt, with cottages for a coachman and a gardener, in 1881.

The site, now described as Owlstone Croft, Grantchester, was sold again in June 1892. By 1914, it was a girls’ school. From the 1920s to the 1940s, it was owned by Theodore Fyfe, Professor of Architecture at the University of Cambridge.

In the late 1940s, it was bought by Addenbrooke’s Hospital as a nurses’ hostel and training school. But when Addenbrooke’s Hospital moved out of the centre of Cambridge to a new site south of Cambridge, the use of Owlstone Croft declined. When the training school closed, it was leased in the 1980s to the Social Services department of Cambridge County Council, and for a period, students of CCAT, now Anglia Ruskin University, had rooms there.

Owlstone Croft was bought by Queens’ College in 1988 to provide post-graduate accommodation.

Paradise House in Grantchester Street, near the entrance to Grantchester Meadows, was built ca 1780 and is the earliest house in the area, but is almost invisible on a tree-covered island in the river.

At one time, there were tennis courts known as the Paradise Courts on the University Hockey Ground. This hockey ground, located at the junction of Barton Road and Grantchester Street, has since been developed for housing, but this area is the opular starting point for walks to Grantchester for aesthetes and tourists interested in the life and writings of the poet Rupert Brooke.

I hope to be in Grantchester later next month. But after walking through Paradise today, I walked back across the Fens and on the Cambridge Rail Station to catch the train to Broxbouurne, the nearest station to Hoddesdon and the High Leigh Conference Centre, the venue for the the annual Us Conference.

In previous years I have walked from High Leigh to Broxbourne, but this afternoon I waited for taxi, and noticed a pick-up mini bus for Paradise Wildlife Park.

This other Paradise is about three or 6 km south-west of High Leigh, and was once a zoo with a poor reputation. But it has been transformed since it was bought by the Simpson family over 30 years ago in 1984. Today, it is a family-friendly place – and I believe it even has, appropriately, a special corner for Birds of Paradise.

The Irish TV puppet Dustin the Turkey, who is anything but a Bird of Paradise, re-worked the lyrics of the hit song “I’ve Never Been to Me” on his album Unplucked, bemoaning that he has been to Paradise but he has “never been to Meath.” But the, he has probably never been to Paradise in Cambridge either.

Hey lady, you, lady, cursin’ at your life
You’re a discontented mother and a regimented wife
I’ve no doubt you dream about the things you never do
But I wish someone had a talk to me like I wanna talk to you
Ooh I’ve been to Georgia and California, and anywhere I could run
Took the hand of a preacher man and we made love in the sun
But I ran out of places and friendly faces because I had to be free

I’ve been to Paradise, but I’ve never been to me

Please lady, please, lady, don’t just walk away
’Cause I have this need to tell you why I’m all alone today
I can see so much of me still living in your eyes
Won’t you share a part of a weary heart that has lived a million lies
Oh I’ve been to Nice and the isle of Greece
Where I sipped champagne on a yacht
I moved like Harlow in Monte Carlo and showed ’em what I’ve got
I’ve been undressed by kings and I’ve seen some things
That a woman ain’t s’posed to see

I’ve been to Paradise, but I’ve never been to me

Hey, you know what Paradise is? It’s a lie
A fantasy we create about people and places as we’d like them to be
But you know what truth is?
It’s that little baby you’re holding, and it’s that man you fought with this morning
The same one you’re going to make love with tonight. That’s truth, that’s love

Sometimes I’ve been to cryin’ for unborn children
That might have made me complete
But I, I took the sweet life and never knew I’d be bitter from the sweet
I spent my life exploring the subtle whoring that cost too much to be free

Hey lady, I’ve been to Paradise, but I’ve never been to me

I’ve been to Paradise – never been to me
(I’ve been to Georgia and California, and anywhere I could run)
I’ve been to paradise – never been to me
(I’ve been to Nice and the isle of Greece
While I sipped champagne on a yacht)
I’ve been to Paradise – never been to me
(I’ve been to cryin’ for unborn children )
(Fade)

High Leigh in Hertfordshire … the venue for this week’s Us conference, ‘The Transforming Gospel’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Patrick Comerford

Canon Nicholas Wheeler has been working in Brazil since 2008 as the Priest Missioner based in Cidade de Deus, the City of God, in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and he has been the co-ordinator of the Anglican Centre for Theological Education and an Honorary Canon of the Anglican Cathedral of the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro.

His work attracted international support in 2003 through the movie City of God, which told the story of conflict between rival drugs gangs and the police.

He often went to bed to the sound of gunfire. But since then, hopes are growing that the community is moving on from its notorious past. In 2008, a major police operation clamped down on drug dealing, and the police stayed on to patrol the streets. Even so, the community faces many challenges: only 3 per cent of teenagers complete secondary school, while unemployment stands at 25 per cent, and the average income per household is just £50 a month.

Now Nicholas Wheeler has returned to England with his appointment as Rector of the Parish of Holy Trinity and Saint Saviour, Upper Chelsea, three months ago.

Sir John Betjeman once described Holy Trinity as “the Cathedral of the Arts and Crafts Movement.” When his appointment was announced in April, Canon Wheeler said: “I relish the challenge to explore what that reaction against the Industrial Revolution, inspired in the 19th century by the social reformer John Ruskin, and led by the likes of William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones, might suggest for the ministry of Holy Trinity in the 21st.”

Bishop Richard Chartres of London said: “After service in the City of God … Nicholas is bringing a breadth of vision and depth of purpose to beloved Holy Trinity Sloane Square. I am hoping for and expecting great things from this new partnership.”

Meanwhile, the Anglican parish of Christ the King is small but growing and finding effective ways to show and share God’s love. This work is being supported by the Anglican mission agency Us (previously USPG, the United Society for the Propagation of the Gospel), which is supporting the work of the Revd Antonio Terto, who has taken over as the Vicar of the parish.

For five years Father Antonio belonged to a Roman Catholic religious order. He was ordained into the Anglican Church of Brazil in 2012 and continues to practice Franciscan spirituality. Although Anglicans are a tiny minority in Brazil, the church is well regarded locally and something of a community hub. Now, it is hoped that building a community centre will take the church’s local support for the community to a new level. The two-storey centre – to be called the Anglican Space – will offer counselling, skills training and English classes, and will be used by community groups.

But the City of God still faces many challenges. Father Antonio says “there are children, even whole families, living on the streets. There are teenagers with no opportunity to develop their potential or creativity. Senior citizens are overlooked. There is violence against children, especially black teenagers. I have met children who are living with HIV and AIDS. And there are few resources for people with disabilities.” He sees “the Parish of Christ the King as a community of deep faith, seeking to face these delicate situations with love and dedication.”

Canon Wheeler is one of the speakers this week at the annual conference of the Anglican mission agency Us (previously USPG), which is taking place in the High Leigh Conference Centre near Hoddesdon, in Hertfordshire. The conference theme this year is “The Transforming Gospel,” and on Tuesday morning Canon Nicholas Wheeler is presiding at the Morning Eucharist in High Leigh.

Also speaking at the conference is the Revd Dr Miranda Threlfall-Holmes, who is the vicar of a parish on the outskirts of Durham and the Vice-Chair of WATCH (Women and the Church). She is a writer, blogger and historian. Her doctoral research was on the economic and social history of Durham Cathedral Priory (1464-1520).

Before becoming the Vicar of Belmont and Pittington, she was Chaplain and Solway Fellow at University College, Durham, and for a year was Interim Principal of Ustinov College. As a member of General Synod of the Church of England (2007-2012), she was heavily involved in the campaign to open the episcopate to women and men on equal terms.

It was a year ago yesterday [18 July] that the General Synod of the Church of England approved the consecration of women as bishops. Since then, six women have been appointed bishops in the Church of England in the past eight months: Libby Lane, Stockport; Alison White, Hull; Rachel Treweek, Gloucester; Sarah Mullally, Crediton; Ruth Worsley, Taunton; and Anne Hollinghurst, who is to be consecrated as Bishop of Aston in the Diocese of Birmingham on 29 September.

Of course, with each new announcement the news coverage has lessened. But as Bishop Rachel Treweek of Gloucester said about her appointment last March: “I hope this will become something normal. Won’t that be wonderful when, in the best sense, it isn’t newsworthy because we’re women?”

I arrived for the conference this morning on an early flight to Stansted, and I am planning to go to church in Cambridge and spend some time there before catching the train to Broxbourne, the station nearest to Hoddesdon, for preliminary meetings in High Leigh this evening.

The conference proper begins tomorrow afternoon [20 July 2015] with a welcome and introductions with Canon Chris Chivers, Chair of Us Trustees, and opening worship with Canon Andi Hofbauer of Wakefield Cathedral.

At the first session, Janette O’Neill, Us General Secretary, is offering a review of the year. After dinner tomorrow, we have the first of three opportunities to reflect on research into how we communicate ‘Us.’ Night Prayer is being led by Canon Hofbauer, who has been the Precentor of Wakefield Cathedral since 2009.

Tuesday morning begins with the Eucharist led by Canon Nicholas Wheeler. After breakfast, Douglas Yates is introducing the Bray Circle and the Revd Dr Monodeep Daniel of the Delhi Brotherhood Society is leading a Bible study (2 Samuel 13).

Later on Tuesday morning we are being asked: “How is the Gospel good news for women?” This is being led by Canon Delene Mark, Chief Executive of Hope Africa, from the Anglican Church of Southern Africa, and Ms Sheba Sultan from the Church of Pakistan.

This is followed by a debate asking: “What does a world reconciled in Christ mean for men and women?” This debate is being led by the Revd Dr Miranda Threlfall-Holmes and Dr Paulo Ueti, a theologian and New Testament scholar from Brazil.

Five elective workshops are taking place after lunch on Tuesday:

• Interreligious living, with Ms Anjum Anwar MBE, Exchange and Dialogue Development Officer, Blackburn Cathedral; Canon Chris Chivers, Us Chair of Trustees; and Ms Sheba Sultan of the Church of Pakistan.

• Journey with Us, Us Global Relations Programme Manager Habib Nader with volunteers from the Us world church placement programme.

• Us together – mission, memories and stories. This is a time to share and explore experiences of the world church and look at how this can help shape future work.

• Asking nicely – an opportunity to critique the promotion of the Us Connect scheme for churches, the Bray Circle membership scheme, and our legacy materials.

• Stronger together – learning how Us and the Anglican Alliance are working in partnership.

The journey continues later on Tuesday afternoon with a second session to reflect on how we communicate ‘Us’.

The Us Council meets after dinner. Once again, Night Prayer is led by Canon Andi Hofbauer, and she is leading Morning Prayer at the start of the day on Wednesday.

We conclude looking at “Our Journey” on Wednesday morning at two sessions, asking about the next steps and exploring new ways to communicate ‘Us’ asking what excites us about the work of Us.

The conference comes to an end with Dr Monodeep Daniel of the Delhi Brotherhood Society presiding at the Closing Eucharist, when the preacher is Deaconess Dr Rachele Evie Vernon, Us Global Relations Theological Adviser.

In between, during gaps in the programme, I hope to have some walks in the beautiful countryside in Hertfordshire and Essex, and I hope to have some time browsing in the book shops in Cambridge on Wednesday afternoon before catching a late night flight back at Stansted Airport.

David’s bookshop, dating from 1896, is hidden in a side alley in the heart of Cambridge … I am hoping for time to browse in the bookshops in Cambridge on Wednesday afternoon (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)