TUTORIALS: New to customizing and need Help? Check here first for tips!

If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

You should post pictures... Probably the paint was unsealed and that's why it's rubbing off... You might need to buy some paint sealer...

First of all thanks a lot! Well I have tried to take some pictures but it is imposible to see anything. Maybe with the sealer will be perfect but it would be horrible if it added brightness to the paint as the colour is perfect. I dont want to use any product that can change the colour or even destroy it. I want something that makes the figure safe to be touched adding some kind of plastic texture. Is this sealer right?

Thanks for your quick reply, my friend! I will try unless it does not add any difference to the colour of the figure. I would want something which added plastic texture if possible because if I scratch a bit with my nail, it peels. I thought about using a hairdryer but I am afraid it can harm the paint.

Paint wear is a major problem with custom figures. There is only so much an artist can do to prevent it. The purity seal, when applied lightly and carefully will not change the color of the paint but it will give it a non-glossy finish. If you use too much of the seal, it will make your colors lighter and/or more white so be very careful not to use too much. Also, be sure to use it in a well ventilated room or outdoors as it is toxic. I use it on all my customs. You can check them out at the link in my signature.

"I reject your Prince Adam and replace him with the original barbarian from the jungle."

I use Testors Dull Cote, which is also a spray. I imagine it works in a similar way to the GamesWorkshop stuff, but it may be easier to find this or a similar product for model kits. I don't know what kind of craft & hobby stores you've got in Spain, so this is just another similar option.

I've found that I can really blast a piece with this stuff and it still dries clear. Whichever spray you may end up with, shake it for even longer than the directions recommend so you don't end up with speckled spots.

Paint wear is a major problem with custom figures. There is only so much an artist can do to prevent it. The purity seal, when applied lightly and carefully will not change the color of the paint but it will give it a non-glossy finish. If you use too much of the seal, it will make your colors lighter and/or more white so be very careful not to use too much. Also, be sure to use it in a well ventilated room or outdoors as it is toxic. I use it on all my customs. You can check them out at the link in my signature.

Thanks a lot! I will be careful when using it.

Originally Posted by FakeEyes22

I use Testors Dull Cote, which is also a spray. I imagine it works in a similar way to the GamesWorkshop stuff, but it may be easier to find this or a similar product for model kits. I don't know what kind of craft & hobby stores you've got in Spain, so this is just another similar option.

I've found that I can really blast a piece with this stuff and it still dries clear. Whichever spray you may end up with, shake it for even longer than the directions recommend so you don't end up with speckled spots.

I use Testors Dull Cote, which is also a spray. I imagine it works in a similar way to the GamesWorkshop stuff, but it may be easier to find this or a similar product for model kits. I don't know what kind of craft & hobby stores you've got in Spain, so this is just another similar option.

I've found that I can really blast a piece with this stuff and it still dries clear. Whichever spray you may end up with, shake it for even longer than the directions recommend so you don't end up with speckled spots.

Yeah, use this Testors Dullcoat, let dry, and then a VERY thin coating of Testors Semi-Gloss coat. Then it blends in with the rest of the store-bought, semi-shiny vintage figures in your collection

Yeah, use this Testors Dullcoat, let dry, and then a VERY thin coating of Testors Semi-Gloss coat. Then it blends in with the rest of the store-bought, semi-shiny vintage figures in your collection

Thanks a lot for the information. I love this figure and hand it a lot so I dont want the paint to be removed. I will ask in the model shop about these products.

In the shop here in Spain, they have told me that I should know the name of the paint used and if it is acrylic paint before adding any product because the paint could fade and be damaged. I dont know what to do.

In the shop here in Spain, they have told me that I should know the name of the paint used and if it is acrylic paint before adding any product because the paint could fade and be damaged. I dont know what to do.

The COTU only used acrylic paint. I know because I painted some stuff for them.

Thanks a lot for your help. The problem is that in the shop ask me a lot of details about the paint to give me a product which does not make the paint fade. It is the first time I do that.

Originally Posted by Tyke

Yes, Acrylics are the way to go! Thin out the paint, apply 2-3 coats (be patient!), dullcoat it, then semi-gloss coat it.

I use FOLKART acrylics, CERAMCOAT acrlics, and ANITA'S acrylics....but I'm in the U.S., not Spain, so who knows what's for sale in your hometown!

Finally got the result I wanted. I painted it with a sealer two times and the texture of plastic is perfect. Now I can play with the figure with no fear of pealing or painting fading. Thanks for all your help my friends

Hey there. I'm starting on my first 2 MOUTC customs and some figure fixes. Is there a good tutorial for taking the figs apart piece by piece for painting? The figure realm links are gone and I haven't had too much luck with the search feature. I found a thread that had a pic of Stratos disassembled but it didn't show how.

And I have to say, the Citadel / Games Workshops paints are really awesome. I'm in the middle of working on a DC Universe C&C custom and man they go on smooth even with out thinning and didn't leave any brush strokes. I tested out bottles of Humbrol, Testors, Tamiya, Valleijo, and the GW and I feel GW works the best for me. The Vallejo I would rank second.

So my BP She-Ra can't look up because her head peg stops at a 45-degree angle. A recent WTFWTK said this was a QC problem. Anyone have an idea as to how it can be fixed? If I can get her to look up, she'd have the perfect Filmation transformation pose.

"I look upon my powers as a gift, not mine alone but for anyone who needs them." (Superman: Peace on Earth)

GO FORWARD. Please support the Christopher Reeve Foundation by purchasing a set of Superman tags at www.ChristopherReeve.org

If nine hundred He-Man.Org members get eaten by Thundercats fans, but neither of them has a toyline, does it still count as a fan movement?

"Flaky"?! I'll have you know I shower almost every day so no flakes on me! hehe ANYway, I too am a minor customizer. But the more you practice, the better your skills can get. I've done a bit with painting weapons too (and armors). I usually use Sharpie fine-point markers (so I can get into the little crevices). Then I spray over them with a clear enamel (Rustoleum brand) to make sure the new colors are protected. It even prevents the color from coming off onto the figures' hands sometimes. When I have to use paints, I go for Testors (armors) or Citadel (flesh).

As for examples, yeah I have a few:

From my youth and hometown when I was a kid...He-Matt and the Masters of the Kunaverse!

I have a couple beaten up vintage MOTU figures I want to make into customs. How can I remove the head from a couple of the figures? (The figures are a Zodac and a Syklone).

The "Boil and Pop" method is your best bet, simply boil some water, put the figures in for a minute or so (not too long as they can melt eventually) and pull the heads off.

SyKlone may give you a bit of trouble since his head is solid and not hollow like the older figures, be sure to pull his head off as soon as you remove him from the water...

You may also want to give this method a try (posted on teh first page of this thread

Originally Posted by FAKER II

Here's an alternative to the boil method that I came up with many years ago customizing Star Wars POTF2 figures.

- Heat oven to about 160 degrees.
- Wad up a piece of aluminum foil to about 1/2 to 1 inch thick. (must be big and thick enough to support the figure.)
- Place aluminum foil onto cooking sheet.
- Place figure on top of foil. (Make absolute certain the figure is not touching the pan.)
- Place in oven and bake for anywhere from 8-15 minutes depending on what you are trying to pop off.
- Remove from oven and dismember the figure however you please.

Every time I mention an oven in relation to a toy people freak out. Boiling water is actually way hotter than 160 degrees.

This method works great for getting the parts to pop off. That is the hard part. Putting them back together is usually much easier. A hair dryer is usually sufficient to get the parts back together.

But if all you want to do is swap the feet, then a hair dryer should be sufficient.

It's not about sculpting but about the packaging artwork.
I found the vintage artwork completely customizable but now I'm lookin' for the MOTUC artwork completely customizable... It's months that I read pages and pages of forum and I can't find it. Someone can help me?
Thanx!