Since I spend most of my forum time on here, and I know you guys appreciate builds all of all different kinds, I figured I'd throw this up here.

This is the money pit that is the reason my Tacoma is stock. This was my 1st car (bought it when I was 13). 1965 Mustang w/ 289 V8, C4 auto, red on red. Only major option the car had was A/C (doesn't work anymore).

When I bought it, it was wrecked, didn't run, and was in general rough shape. It had sat in OK for about 25 years, so thankfully it wasn't too rusted. We did the body work, rebuilt the engine and transmission, redid the brakes, threw some wheels on it, and I drove it. The suspension, rear end, and other misceallaneous items were never touched. Sorry, I don't have any pics from back then (they're all film, no scanner handy). End of 2010, I got a wild hair to totally overhaul the car. New rear end, suspension, brakes, wiring, and full chassis restoration. What you see below is the progress. I'll try to update as things get done, especially if there is interest. Sorry for the pics, they're all cell phone, and I'm the type that tends to take pictures as I complete something, not as I go along.

Car as it sat the weekend before disassembly started.

First thing I did was rewire the engine and front lights, as well as replace all the steering components. Everything went back stock, with the exception of the steering idler and pitman arms, which are the Shelby ones (quicker steering).

Then came the big stuff. First thing to go was old and tired 8 inch rear end, old leaf springs, gas tank, and rear wiring.

Old rear end:

Gas tank removed:

Then it was time to clean. A previous owner had undercoated the car, and it was nasty. So I spent hours upon hours scraping off old undercoating, grime, and paint. Followed by 2 coats primer, and 2 coats Eastwood Chassis Satin Black paint.

During cleaning/primer. The gray/brown color at the bottom right of the picture is what the whole underside looked like before.

And after the Eastwood Chassis Paint is applied. Appears to have more sheen in the photo than in person, but I'm very pleased with the results, especially for a car that is 100% driver, not a show car.

Bought a 9 inch housing on CL, had it basted and powdercoated satin black. It came with axles and a rear diff, also. Had the axles rebuilt, and the diff is currently at the shop getting built with a 3.25 LSD. The rear suspension was upgraded to 4.5 leaf mideye springs (1.5 extra leafs for better handling, mideye to reduce ride height appx 1") and I added CalTrac traction bars. Also installed new stainless steel gas tank.

Detailed the rear diff. Was covered in grease and grime before. Will touch it up if needed when it gets back from the shop.

And finally, front end is off the car, so I can keep cleaning/painting and replace the front suspension.

Just a comparison shot so you can see what an area looks like before it gets cleaned and after. The front end of the car is 100x cleaner than the rear/bottom were.

That's it for now. I've ordered front suspension (Shelby spec, essentially) and hope to get that installed within the next month. After that, 4 wheel disc brakes go on (13" front, 11.65" rear), followed by 17" American Racing Torque Thrust II wheels in polished finish, and other misc. items (fuel lines, brake lines, wiring, etc). Hope you guys enjoy...I'll try and update as things happen!

Looks like a fun project! Maybe i'll see it around at the car shows in the future?

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Yeah, I definitely like to attend cruises and shows when it's running. My goal is to have it done for Blacktop Nationals in August, and try to hit some of the other major cruise nights that are in the fall. If you see it there be sure to introduce yourself!

Having personally done all that before, I know how much work you put into that projects and pictures never show how much time and elbow grease you have invested. At least it looks like your dealing with a pretty sold car. Rust makes all that so much more fun. Now that things are clean working on it will be so much nicer b/c you won't have all the crap falling in your face.

Are you upgrading to all stainless brake and fuel lines? What wiring are you planning on going with? Have you looked into sub-frame connectors. It will turn that limp noodle of a unibody into something that you can almost call ridged. I have the tcp set front to back and the cross bracing.

Having personally done all that before, I know how much work you put into that projects and pictures never show how much time and elbow grease you have invested. At least it looks like your dealing with a pretty sold car. Rust makes all that so much more fun. Now that things are clean working on it will be so much nicer b/c you won't have all the crap falling in your face.

Are you upgrading to all stainless brake and fuel lines? What wiring are you planning on going with? Have you looked into sub-frame connectors. It will turn that limp noodle of a unibody into something that you can almost call ridged. I have the tcp set front to back and the cross bracing.

Kevin

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I got lucky, the car was extremely solid and pretty rust free. Back when we did the body work, we had to replace a quarter panel skin and the driver's floor, but the cowl was rock solid, and all the other metal on the car is original. Even the front leaf spring bolts, which are notorious for freezing, came free without any issues. So yeah, I've been blessed with a very solid car. No framerail issues, etc.

I looked at stainless lines, but because I'm doing 4 wheel disc and an upgraded master cylinder, I'm going to have to fab some lines, and regular mild steel is much easier to work with. The company I'm buying the brakes from actually recommends the regular lines (the originals last 46 years, so guess they're OK). I am doing stainless braided brake hoses. Also looked at subframe connectors, but settled on just the CalTracs. I don't race the car at all, I just wanted something a little more solid for the red light romps it will get every now and then. The front will have a 1" sway bar and 1 piece export brace/Monte Carlo bar when done.

Great project. I bought a '66 A code 289 that may possibly be a GT but I am starting to doubt it. I plan on starting to strip it down and redo the whole car. I may be pm'ing you for pointers. My car seems to be a rust free California car but I will know more after media blasting. The previous owner had sealed and primered it but I will feel better if I start from scratch. I only want to do it once.

Great project. I bought a '66 A code 289 that may possibly be a GT but I am starting to doubt it. I plan on starting to strip it down and redo the whole car. I may be pm'ing you for pointers. My car seems to be a rust free California car but I will know more after media blasting. The previous owner had sealed and primered it but I will feel better if I start from scratch. I only want to do it once.

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By all means, let me know if you have any questions. You going stock or throwing some modifications in there? I'm far from an expert, but I've taken apart just about every part of a '65-'66 at some point or another, so I might be able to help some. As far as documenting a GT, I'm sure you know the things to look for, but from what I've been able to tell the best way is look under the rear seat for 2 metal plates (I believe they were for the dual exhaust hangers). If you're not already a member, check out vintage-mustang.com. It's a great forum full of all kinds of advice. I'm probably the least knowledgable person there.

I completely agree 100% about doing it right the first time. Had I the opportunity to do my car over again, I'd have done what I'm doing now first, and then worried about paint/body. It sucks doing all this and having to worry about dents, chipped paint, etc.

Great looking car. No pics of the interier? Does it have the original Pony int? Im a huge fan as I had a 69 and like a dumbass sold it. I love the fact that its not a fastback. Good luck with your build. sooo jealous.

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Sorry, here's an interior pic. It's the standard red interior, not Pony, unfortunately. I really haven't done anything here except a new dash pad. It really needs new door panels and gauges, as well as a tach. The '69 Sportsroof is my dream "attainable" car...I'd love a Mach 1 or Boss 302.

Even if you dont plan on racing the subframe connectors help a lot. Even if you just use the ones that connect the front to the back and not the full cross brace. It really makes the car more consistent. Are you just doing the normal Shelby/Arning drop upfront? Have you looked at any roller upgrades? If you plan on driving it a lot I would suggest swaping the steering column out so you don't have a steel spear pointed at your chest in the event of an offset front crash.

I'm upgrading to roller perches. Looked into rack and pinion, tubular suspension, etc., and decided it wasn't for me given my intentions with the car. I'm doing the normal Shelby drop...no need for me to do the 1.75" with the negative wedge kits or anything.

As for the steering column, you're right that's a risk. But again, it's not on the plate right now. Maybe some day when funds are more plentiful, but for now I'm just trying to get it back on the road, doing everything "correctly".

Thought I'd throw in an update (however small it is). The 3rd member is back from the shop after a complete rebuild. What was once a tired, 2.80 open rear gear is now an all-new, 3.25 limited-slip. It's installed into the housing and the axles have been test-fitted to make sure they slide in like they're supposed to.

Comparison pics for the upgraded rear end:

Old:

New:

I'm extremely pleased with how it turned out. It looks even better than I could have hoped, especially for a driver.

Also, these came in the mail last week:

They're 11.65" rear disc brakes. Came with red powdercoated calipers, stainless hoses, and all the brackets/hardware. I'm pairing them with 13" front brakes from the same company (Street or Track), which should be here next week sometime. I'll post pictures of the final results when they get installed.

That's pretty much it for now. I'm planning on ordering the front suspension this month, and hopefully get everything ready for plumbing of the brakes and fuel lines and wheels/tires this summer. Hope you guys enjoy.

Great job on the car! I am going to start my 65 convertable pretty soon, it will need full recon, the big thing I am worrying about doing is the rocker boxes. I lived in Wichita back in the early 80's and moved to Arkansas City till early 90's. Wichita was a lot of fun. Good luck with your car, I will watch your progress.

Yesterday was a busy day for the Mustang, so I thought I'd update this thread. I recently accepted a new job in Denver, so I've been in overdrive trying to get the car done and ready to move.

So, got new wheels and tires. American Racing Torque Thrust IIs in polished aluminum. 17x7 and 205/50/17 tires in the front, 17x8 with 235/45/17 in the rear. Tires are BFGoodrich GForce Sport Comp 2. I may be biased, but I think they look sick on the car. Here's a closeup pic...you can see the 11.65" rear disc brakes behind the wheel.

Yesterday I installed the rear shocks (Bilsteins), threw the wheels and tires on, and put the car on the ground for the first time in over 2 years. It was pretty awesome to put it on the ground and not have it all fall apart on me. The rear springs need to settle a little bit, but I can already tell its lower than it used to be (car has a pretty nice bro-lean right now - front end hasn't been redone yet). It measures 26.5" from floor to quarter panel on both sides.

That's where I'm at right now. I'm hoping the springs settle another inch or so once I get some mileage on them, but if they don't, I'm OK with the ride height. I do need to fine tune some things in the rear, but its 99.9% done. Up next: new u-joint so I can reattach the driveshaft, then get the new front suspension on (anticipating about a 1.5" drop in the front), install the 13" front disc brakes, new fuel and brake lines, new master cylinder...and then FINALLY turn the key and fire it up.