Description

This route climbs what is essentially the east ridge of Banner Peak. Good ledges can be found for almost all belays.

Gain the ridge by climbing a 4th class chute on the south side a little ways uphill from the toe of the ridge. Follow the chute through a narrow bit (this can be avoided by climbing some low 5th class rock on the right wall) and up some reddish orange rock to the ridge.

Climb the ridge for 3 - 4 pitches of easy 5th class to a steep headwall. There seem to be several ways to go here, but the easiest is to traverse right around the headwall (staying below fixed gear and old tat) to the chute right of the ridge.

Climb this chute for 30 - 40 meters until you can gain the arete that forms the right wall of the chute. Up the crest of this on some steep, fun rock (5.7) to where it rejoins the main ridge.

From here you've got many options. 4 more pitches of right-trending, wandery climbing with big ledges gets you to a class 2 ramp leading to the summit ridge. Once there turn south (toward Ritter) and scramble to the top.

Location

Start at the saddle between Banner and Peak 11440.

To descend head down the southwest slope (class 2) to the Ritter-Banner Saddle. From here turn left (east) and descend a narrow chute (loose rock and snow, class 3) to a bigger snowfield and eventually talus. Down this trending left and hopefully picking up a bit of a trail that will return you to Lake Ediza.

If you're camped at Nydiver Lakes stay high, contouring below the southeast face of Banner before heading down slabs then grass to the lakes.