I raise composting nightcrawlers for fishing bait and worm castings. I need to make a simple shaking machine with 3 different sizes of screens. The first screen with keep all of the larger pieces of dirt and twigs from the compost and a few of the larger worms. The second screen of a smaller mesh will keep most of the worms and a little of the unfinished compost. The third and final screen will let through only the worm castings and the worm cocoons. This machine should hold at least a five gallon bucket of compost at a time and the worms have already turned any large particles of garbage; leaves; dirt etc into small parts, but picking these worms out a few at a time is a very time consuming process and I have a lot of 50 gallon barrells to go through.

When I pull a magnet over the dirt it sticks to the magnet then when I blow of the dirt there is black powder. Is this magnetite, iron, or what is it (it is not from a disinigrated piece of metal, its all over)?? How would I collect this powder fastly and efficiently?? Thanks

I Have a Budget of 0 Dollars,I Have Wood,And a Tiny Shovel That i am Using Right now,IT takes Pretty Much Forever to Dig up a Small Bucket,Any Ideas For a Quick Way to do it,By the Way,I Need This Today,So Reply As soon as Possible;)
Some Thing That i Can Do To Get the Dirt To come apart Easily?

We have purchased land that has a 100 year old dug well on the property. Until about 20 years ago it was open, but the farmer of the property wanted to make the land a little safer and filled it in. When he filled it in, it had water at the bottom and was approx 30-45feet deep. Since the time when it was filled in, the dirt has sunk about 10feet. It is well made and is small round rock lined. I would love to find a way to get the dirt out of the well and at the same time preserve the nice stone work. It would be my hope to connect a solar pump to it and use the water for gardening purposes. Any thoughts on how to get the dirt out?

We have our car shed roof made from double walled polycarbonate sheets, the problem is that the fabricator at the time of fixing it to the frame forgot to put tape on the holes to avoid dirt getting in. and that time I didn't knew about it, but recently I read this and the dirt has seeped in the holes which are about 7mm square in area. I googled it with various queries but to no avail, Now please help me by giving me some direction and steps to clean it. The dirt is fine sand and some mud which seeped in with rain. I do not want to cut replace or open the sheets just clean them. it has seeped in upto 1.5 feet (roughly half a meter). See the following images, the dirt is just dark areas the rest is just on surface.

I have a 4 stroke 50 cc panterra dirt bike and the engine bog if you turn the throtle too quickly insteadof slowly twisting it . how can i improve the throtle response by means of cleaning it or buying H.P. parts

While traveling it israel i came across this strange tree and i just began called it a potato tree because it seemed to have green potatoes growing on it. so i have but one question for you all; What the hell is this!?!

I would like to incorporate my stash of glass bottles into a greenhouse, but all the articles I've seen so far call for the bottles to be filled with dirt when being used to construct a wall. What about using them upright instead of on their sides?

I've seen a wild rabbit near my shed. I can't see all the way under the shed, even though it's up off the ground, because there's a mound of dirt under there. I put lettuce just under the shed, and it disappears. Could the mound be a rabbit's nest??

It is a 336-mile long system of aqueducts called the Central Arizona Project. I don't see why its not used to do aquaculture of various sorts. Farmed shrimp out here was great till the Asian imports got dirt cheap. Now they have changed gears to grow algae for biofuels. Could that be done here?

I mean I've picked the spot (behind my fig tree), but what else do I need? What do I put in the dirt to attract the worms. I've heard grits, corn meal, news paper, potatoe peelings and dish water. But what works...its almost fishing season and worms are too high to buy so I am making my own bed. Thanks a lot!

Is it worth it to plant a veggie garden directly in ground or should i just go with one of the planters from the site? my soil is real bad and would require a lot of working. its hard as clay and filled with rocks.. it would be more accurate to say that i have a bunch of rocks with some bad dirt...
should i just build a few planters (i have the wood and tools handy) and fill with store bought soil or are three advantages to planting directly in the ground?

I have a pool in my yard that nobody has used for years. I would love to backfill it with dirt but my wife says no. I am getting sick and tired of using "human safe" chemicals to keep it clean, especially as it still gets algae during our hot Las Vegas summers. I am looking for some chemical(s) are are EPA legal but so powerful that nobody should swim in them. Essentially, what I want is something that will kill everything in the water and keep it dead for a significant period of time.

I want to build a simple, yet fun outdoor water SOMETHING in my backyard for my 11 and 8 year olds. I do not want the cost, upkeep, or permanancy (?) of a pool, and I want it to be something they can enjoy for a while. I ran across a brick splash pad and would like to do that or something similar in our dirt yard. Does anyone know how to do something like this? Any photos? It would be great to be able to turn on just a few sprayers at a time, or choose to have them all. I would think a way to catch and recycle the water (but drain ince in a while). I looked for a post I thought I had seen here before, but nothing turned up. Thank you!

OK, so I have this big water treatment plant around me and there is a huge pit where the soil is deep orange and filled with rust. I know its rust because the people who work there told me its rust. If you just touch it your fingers are orange. So I went down there with a plastic bag and gathered up some chunks of soil that were dry and orange. I was wondering how i could extract the iron oxide(rust) from it so there is no dirt in it and I have a pile of rust. I want to use it for thermite. Thanks alot!

I had to have a drain tile dug up and replaced in my front yard a while back. In order to prevent the loose dirt from washing into the street when it rained, I put down perennial rye seed to hold the sod together. Now I'd like to have all the same grass again, but the rye is proving to be more tenacious than I bargained for. I've tried Googling for a rye-specific herbicide, but no luck so far. I've been just pulling up the rye shoots, but I'm hoping for a less labor-intensive approach. Any lawn-care experts out there that can recommend a product or process that might help get rid of the rye without killing off the rest of the lawn or making me grow gills or a second head or something?

I live in a rural urban neighboorhood on the side of a mountain in rich country. I was just wondering whats the best way to cover a chain fence without the use of plants. I'm going to be using the backyard a lot in the future for a dirt track and I would like peace of mind when I do so. I come home from work late afternoon/early night time and let me be the first to tell you, it is pitch black by my house. There have been some pretty creepy stories in my area so I would just like to ease my mind alitlle by covering the chain fence for both myself and the privacy of my kids. (My aunt said she see's people wondering near our property and is afraid they will loot us or something, she's in her 70's and is staying with us while shes on vacation here with her kids) and just to stop the constant complaining of peepers we just settled on covering the fence with maybe some material from homedepot. We were thinking of maybe using some sort of sheet to cover in the meantime they're staying. But we just don't know where to get the proper material. Any suggestions are welcomed, thanks.

1. Always wear a helmet, wear body armor as well when needed (how much depends on course, and what you find to be suitable) at all times. 2. Look ahead of you. The faster you are going the further ahead you should look. 3. Stay focused and try not to concentrate or think while you are going at high speed, this tends to slow you down and/or cause accidents...practice alot and everything should come naturally with flow! - Before a run get a song or something that gets you "in the mood" in the back of your mind,and go for it - before you know it you'll be through the track/race no problem...you should all ready know the track turn for turn before doing this. 4. Make sure your tires have appropriate tread on them and are not cracking/damaged 5. Check your bike over in the parking lot before going up the lift. Ride it around and check the brakes and tire pressures. 6. Get enough sleep before riding and especially before racing. 7. Don't drink or get high before racing or riding (you can do it, and seen it done, but if you want to win or want to be safe...don't) 8. Stay relaxed and dialed in on the bike, be as relaxed as possible mentally before you start a race but be pumped physically at the same time. 9. Know the track as well as you can before racing it (the later steps will go into greater detail on how to do this). 10.Learn to 'pump through the ruff stuff'-pull up on the face and push down on the back side of bumps/rocks/landing trannys, etc... 11. Stay light on the back brake as much as you can and try to lock it as rarely as possible if at all...it may cause you to wash out. Only lock the brake on extremely sharp turns or to get into a turn if a cuttie won't be efficient enuff. 12. Try to go as fast as you can when you can-->PEDAL PEDAL PEDAL like a bat out of hell in the open or out of turns when/where ever you can. 13. Practice "cutties". 14. Buy the "Fundamentals" DVD available here on pinkbike.com or at most bike shops and study it...take notes if you have to. You will find how to do "cutties" on the DVD as well as many many more "fundamentals" for DH riding-----> BUY IT, you will be glad you did. 15.Off camber: make sure you weight your outside foot and stand the bike on the egde of the tire, that way it will stick 16. Rock gardens: the faster the better- you will bobble across the top and be on you way before you know it, rather than getting packed down and ending up with major arm pump. 17. Braking: only ever do real braking in straight lines, you can brake on corners but do it conservatively and only to slide around sharp turns better as it may cause you to wash out as mentioned above. The less you brake the faster you go and fast riding is a winning formula- think about that. 18. >>>Don't Crash It can have you out for the rest of the season and that can prevent you from winning races----obviously. Just dont ride like an idiot and attempt things that will probably end in you getting hurt. Ride within your limits! 19. (Words of Pro Down hiller Steve Peat from the "fundamentals" DVD mentioned above) "Stay as light as you can on the bike and pump through the back side of rocks or rough sections as a skateboarder pumps a vert ramp" to gain or maintain speed and momentum. 20. Trust your tires throughout the course. If you believe and have faith in your tires grip, chances are they will have grip fine. If you don't trust your tires and BELEIVE that they wont grip and you will probably fall, chances are they won't grip and as a result you will indeed fall. 21. Walk the track and look for new lines or which lines are best to take and are the fastest 22. Tuck when ever possible to conserve energy. Pedal hard in the open spots before the ruff stuff then tuck and pump and repeat. 23. True your wheels to increase your speed and pedalling efficiency 24. Don't use big fat mud bog tiresfor DH(i.e. 2.6"-3.0") EVER...unless your DH course happens to be a downhill mud swamp 25. Learn to brake with out losing traction , this helps in straight line braking before turns. 26.Push yourself in the warmups, (not stupidly) and give 95% of what your maximum was when you were pushing yourself, in the actual race. This way you wont fall, but you are still hauling a$$. 27.Practice shift points, it is very important to be in the right gear at the right time or youll be sucking wind trying to pedal a flat stretch in too high of a gear. On a fast stretch where you need to begin pedaling to maintain that speed, youll be spinning out. Know what gear to start in and what gear you need to be in at every point in the track. 28. If all else fails look fast across the finish line where everyones watching. 29.When learning, set your fork/and or shock harder than you would normally, this will teach you to use to body rather than relying upon the bike. 30. Try to pick memory markers for your self; tree stump, odd looking rock, etc... and break the course down in your head so you can become very quick overall. 31. Practice simple skills such as manuals (good for roots), Hops, roots/rocks) and of course cutties 32. Commit to berms, brake on a berm and it will end it tears, aim to "rail the berm" to do this - hit the berm at a speed that isnt too fast (this will cause you to slip up it) and not to slow (you will slip down and is slower duh) The ideal speed should carry you round as g forces will push you into the berm. 34.Take a couple of the "Learn to race" clinics offered before many of the sanctioned races. 35.Play with your set up, everything from seat angle, to brake postioning- it can all make a big difference. The more comfortable you are on the bike the faster youll go, the steepness can be different for each course(for instance) so tweak it a little each time but dont EVER change your entire setup before a race. 36.When walking the course, look back up at it. You will find new lines looking up rather then down. 37. While riding (including in the air) never squeeze the seat with your knees. This makes it impossible to flow smoothly, and makes you a ridged weight to be tossed around at the mercy of the trail. It may feel safer, but it will cause you to wreck and lose speed when you would not otherwise. In the air also, it you pinch your seat then you can not compress the lip and extend for landing. Also you can not whip and prepare for upcoming turns and bumps. The ONLY time that pinching your seat would be appropriate is when doing a suicide no hander which, if you can do it without loosing speed, is a cool way to entertain the crowd. 38.Learn to crash,it is an important skill to have that will save you alot of trouble in the long run. 39. Work your way up to the big stuff. Even if you are a good rider always warm up on an easier trail then go for the harder stuff you set out to conquer. Same for riding in general- dont go tackle the hardest trail on the mountain without first being able to do the easy ones---this may sound somewhat obvious but alot of people just cant get this bit of logic into their skulls without being told directly. 40. If the drop doesn't have a great tranny, hit it with more speed. this will cause you to have increased foreward momentum and less downward ( static ) momentum and make the landing smoother. let your bike go off the drop first. 41. If you are in the air ( off a jump drop or whatever... ) and your back end starts to dip too much, tap your back brake, this will cause the front end to dip forward. ( this is used all the time in Motocross) WARNING: Use this with caution and only when its a neccesity. 42. XC riding will make you faster. I always love watching the out of shape downhillers crossing the finish line and nearly having a hear attack. The more tired you are the more mistakes you make and the more likely you are to get hurt. Pedal! Then pedal more! 43. Train like a mofo. During my DH racing times I would spend the summer mornings doing 5-8 runs on local dh trails then dirt jumping and XC riding in the afternoon= Legs that were strong/fast as hell. Dont forget to train in the off season too. 44. Develop a training schedule not just for biking and racing but to keep in shape in general. The more you ride the better you will be. Like Ito was saying, do as much of each mountain biking discipline as possible with emphasis on Down hill. Cedric Gracia wins because he is a great all around rider as is Minaar. 45.Commit to the front end of your bike in corners. Watch Sam Hill, no-one does it better. NOTE: BEFORE DOING THIS, make sure you have practiced it and know how to do this technique at speed (Note is courtesy of Iceboy) 46. Don't pedal like a mad man out of the gate. Pedal, but let your bike gather speed and focus on keeping it. Racing comes down to one thing - exit speed , in particular your speed out of corners. Wait until you feel the flow before you start pushing it harder. If you pedal too hard from the start you'll flip in 60 seconds and get back on your bike a go harder to make up the time. Then you'll flip again. Speaking from experience on this one! It's all about being 'zen'. At least that's what all the dudes who keep beating me are telling me. Learn how to go as fast as you can through turns and sections to know your limits. 47. Make your riding FEEL slow when you are going fast! If you feel fast it's because the trail is catching up with you too quickly for you to process all the info in a comfortable time frame. Probably because you are too busy worrying about going fast and not feeling the flow. Look out, you are about to flip. It's that zen thing you're missing. 48. Practice having FLOW in all your riding, down hill (speed as well as flow), Dirt jumps (flow), XC(speed and flow), what ever (FLOW)... 49.Dont be intimidated by other riders, stay focused on what you have to do not what they are doing, if they crash pay atention to why, and try not to make the same mistake. 50. Learn to go over jumps at as high a speed as possible with out overshooting or losing speed by going too high. Jumps and learning to land them without thinking is a VERY beneficial skill to have... (if you want to stay low coming of jumps learn to soak up the lip...you will go just as far but you'll stay lower) 51. When doing a j-hop, bunny hop or going up the face of a jump don't forget to push into the ground and then come up to get more air. 53. The rougher the place you are riding the more ralaxed and flowy you should be trying to go . 54. Spend time at the track and just watch other riders(especially how they are going through the tricky sections that you are having trouble with), see what they are doing wrong and try to not make the same mistakes, also watch for where the speed spots of the section are. 55.Read Brian Lopes's & Lee McCormick's book " Mastering Mountain Biking Skills", this book covers everything you need to know in great detail from top to bottom, it is with out a doubt the most comprehensive guide for how to ride/race mountain bikes and how to handle and practice everything involved in riding. I HIGHLY RECCOMEND IT, and would say that it is the BIBLE for Mountain Biking! 56.Look where you want to go not at what you are trying to avoid. if you stare at the tree you are trying to go around instead of the trail around it you will more often than not hit the tree. 57. As mentioned previously-The faster you are going the further ahead you should look, always look at what lies further ahead when riding downhill AND avoid staring at your front wheel--staring at your front wheel will slow you down drastically and often will lead to crashing. 58.To re-inerate what Harding.Thomas was saying; do not focus on obstacles like stumps logs and rocks, because thats were you will go instead of where you want to go. In essence, keep an eye on where you want to go and you will go there. Do not look down at what your riding over, let your bike deal with the terrain, thats what its for. This is a very important tip to increasing speed and improving flow. 59. Before you go riding, I find that a simple 10 minute warm up on flat land and practicing tight turns and j-hops helps loosen you up and calms you down If you have any other tips, tell me! ill post them in the list.