A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Dandan82 - Injury sucks. Get well soon.
Nick Russell - It's nice just to tick easy stuff and have fun from time to time. Even more Lakes classics. Nice.
Tubb93 - Kaly sounds fun. Didn't realise there was much bouldering there. Did you tick the 7B then?
JimmyKay - That's a nice ticklist there. Ace.
grubes - Wooo! Ride done. Cider drunk. Sounds like an ace week.
hms - Sandstone can be hard to read and holds aren't obvious. So don't beat yourself up about it. Is Sirhowy nice? never been there.
mrchewey - Get back on the squats you lazy so and so.
Joughton - Nice week there. Now about that 8a? Weak he says. Only a few V5-6s he says...
Exile - Lots of mtbing. Adult cardio? Isn't that some other form of 'adult' exercise? ;)
mattrm - Well done on the diet. No seriously. You didn't loose weight this week did you, yeh dozy tubber. Having said that standing on a nail didn't help.
Tyler - I aim to please. Seriously tho, it's nice to see you back. Well done on the weight loss, it's harder than it looks sometimes. What's teh Malham proj?
Alun - Congrats on the weight. Sounds like some nice rides. You can do the 7c, CRUSH IT!!!
mbh - Keep it up. Miles in the bank. All good. Any races coming up?
IainRUK - 118 miles? Two wins? Lots of prize money! 50k in 4:48 and a course record? Amazing. Stunning. It's great to see where the dedication gets you.
Ally - Unjustified eh? Good luck. Any chance of a video of you on that? about the finger.
biscuit - Yup yoga is good. Finger better?
Sankey - Did you try my amazing new bouldering technique? Awesome isn't it? Taking the Space? what grade? Either way good luck on it.
ppg - Get off the TR! Get on the lead. It'll come. Have you kept up the stretching?
Si Cox - wb matey. Onsight V5, but only climbing E1? Me thinks you need to up those grades a little. E4 is surely possible? Pick some well protected E2s and see how you go.
Humperdink - Watched the vid. Super fast. Kept expecting the guy who won to blow up but he didn't. You were in a white vest with stripes right? Looking at your watch a lot? Or blue shorts? Anyway well done on the PB. It was amazingly fast. Super effort there.
Ali - The amazing, the wonderful, the one I forgot last week. Oops. Sorry again. Feeling better? Lost weight? Sponsor her here - https://www.livebelowtheline.com/me/samandali Thanks for the cragmeister beta.
Just Tintin - Least you got out to do a maintenance session. Well done for organising the sportive. Hard work that sort of thing and often a thankless task.
Jamming Dodger - sounds like a nice fun week. I really rate yoga. Well worth sticking with.
ashley - Got rained off Hope you're well rested?
Luke Owens - Progress on the 7A+ and well done on the link up. Detailed training as always. Do you have a home wall then?
stevemarkperry - Got Flowers yet? I hate to go 'ummm eeerrrr' to peoples goals (when mine are so daft) but 500 routes by the end of the year (when you've done like 8 so far) does seem like a bit of a reach. Maybe shuttle it down to a slightly smaller number? I'm keen to get up to the Roaches, so if I can make it maybe I can get you up a few easy classics? Hope that's constructive criticism. I'm all for big goals. Feel free to ignore me, I normally do.

Cheers Matt. That is constructive and something I'm very aware of. TBH I set that goal at the start of the year when it was still tough but also fairly reachable but as the year as moved along and my business has taken up more of my time I'm finding myself nipping out for quick blasts on the MTB or short and sweet bouldering sessions. So the trad goals have slipped away a little for now.

Thanks for the offer of getting out with me. Sounds good although I'll have to pre-plan a little if possible.

2 yoga sessions this week. I'm loving it. One session this week highlighted a real weakness in general core and hip flexors.

Big news of the week was getting Truth Drug done at Kilnsey. My first UK 7b+ and no soft touch at the grade. 3 sessions, though the 2nd was a very poor 2 crap top rope efforts when I felt ill the week before and doesn't really count.

I had some input from John Kettle (climbing coach) a while ago and he put me onto visualisation techniques. I used it for the first time and it was amazing. Got to the hands off rest and then I can't remember anything until I grabbed the hold at the end of the hard climbing. Total focus and commitment. It felt amazing and quite easy. I then nearly fluffed it on the easy, but hard to read, 6b ground to the top. Oops !

My reward was a go on Comedy. I've decided it got it's name due to how hilariously difficult it is to get the clips in and out. First acquaintance felt impossible but I was told by The Fox that I looked much better on it first go than he did and he's just climbed it so fingers crossed. It's an inspiring, intimidating, route and I'm totally psyched for it. Going back on Tuesday for another go weather permitting.

Going out on the bike later. I need to improve my core for Comedy (yoga) but the scales make for depressing reading at present and dropping the excess will no do any harm getting up such a steep route.

M: Run. Very gentle as I was with others who, astonishingly, run slower than me and also because we got a lift up the hill
T: Craig y Longridge, managed the first fifth which is something I've been trying for ages, very happy
W: Friend's board, not very focused but climbed until it was prudent not to lose any more skin
T: First longish run for ages (1year?) - SH-BH-HH-PT, didn't time myself and walked a lot of the uphill but done it now.
F: legitimate rest
S: Malham, three redpoint attempts getting to within half a move from easy ground on one attempt and well past the penultimate bolt on the other two. This includes the crux which I've only been able to do in isolation 25% of the time previously so a HUGE improvement, not sure I have enough left to get it tomorrow
S: Walk up Pendle Hill, took a heavy rucksack so I'm counting this as training as it felt at least as taxing as Thursday's run

Thanks Matt. I really liked Sirhowy. The good routes were excellent. Seems a shame it obviously doesnt get loads of traffic.

M cycle commute then TRX + fingerboard session
T cycle commute
W Ban y gor with Nick. We would appear to have a project - a 7b+ arete route. I only had 1 TR go as my arms virtually exploded, but definitely worth some work. 2 clips v powerful, 1 clip very thin traverse, then 2 clips of snatchy arete.
T cycle commute
F supposed to be climbing outside but got let down at the last minute. So TCA bouldering. Did a ew more of the back circuit (6a+ to 6c), but don't think many more will go. Tried using new shoes (anasazi pinks) and got on better than I had on routes, but they still seem v stiff & insensitive.
S traversing on local stone wall, then trying dyno type moves to the brick top which went surprisingly well, then back home for a TRX session + 30 pullups
S with Garouli at Tintern. Flashed a 6c+ (chosen to practise aretes - which t then turned out to to use!) then had 3 goes at a 7a+. 20m of delightful overhanging thuggery, then 8m of crimpy reachy horror-show. Will need a rope above me to totally suss the transition between the two, as I kept lobbing off whatever I tried.

So, 7b+ project is exciting but could take a while! Hope to get back on it next week, weather allowing.

Not such a great week, started off OK, decent quality after recovery and first week of taper

Not a bad week getting my legs going again after the 50k.. but horrifically bad race today.. felt flat, maybe allergies, but sub 58's for 10 mile would have been OK a few years back, just felt awful today and jogged in.

MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder V6 in font (September) and V7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b

LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder V9

This week:
M- travelled back to uni
T- HAd a great even bouldering at caseg fraith. Ticked 'Oh Yeah' (V5) without too much trouble, as well as get lots of V3-4s
W-rest day
T- CLimbed at indy, flashed a V4 and got a few other V4s and one V5
F- went home
S- work
S- work

Really happy with my V5 tick this week especially as it is a stiff V5!

Thanks Matt, still injured, I've been properly banned from climbing by the physio for the time being, rubbish!
I did chest session at the gym Monday, core on Tuesday and that was about it, I'm trying to stay active but it's a bit tricky to find motivation. Going to see the physio on Wednesday so hopefully we can make some progress there.

If the 8a club list is going to appear every week, can stick me on it too? I'm still determined to hit it this year. (outdoor 7a+ best so far this year)

M - Hands a little sore from spending the whole weekend on plastic instead of rock as planned, rested
T - Work followed by 3 hours climbing, some 5c's and 6a leads.
W - Decided that I have put on a little bit of weight, so am going to start running again. Aiming at an ultra marathon meddle of next year, not sure on if to do the 40 mile or the 70 mile
T - Fingerboard workout, as climbing partners were both working nights
F - Rested
S - Short jog
S - 5 hours at climbing centre, nothing over 6a.

Thought I'd try a return to FC. Life got too hectic last year and injury stopped me climbing for a couple of months (Knee issues).
May go the same way again, but unless we try, who knows what will happen?

Seems that the FC members are powering away still, and some newer ones (I have had a few sneaky peeks) also giving the max. Well done andy on 8a, though expected with the volume he's been getting in.

For me, my ramble away:
Trad:
September 2013 was the last serious trad efforts until easter this year. Ticked E3 (Butcher @ Easter) and this weekend tried Arms race E4 OS, but failed. Led it clean fine with the gear in. Next time, though I expect a few goes might be needed to refine the placements and pump minimisation.
I seem to have picked trad back up OK, plans for this year E4 onsight. Volume of E2 and E3. As with sport previously, I am trying to avoid routes under E1 even as warm ups, unless they are decorated gems or the company I am with requires.

Bouldering:
I don't, especially as my knees are more fragile than ever it seems. Might try some indoors at some point.

Sport:
Again, no serious sport for 6 months. Sicily at new year was a let down climbing wise. Did manage ratline and Cairn in a day and a bit at harpur hill the other weekend. I think the onsight level has dipped slightly.

Sport ambitions:
As alway, getting on the hard routes is an ass to do. But shouldn't be an excuse. So, 7c or above this year? Though I've said this for 5 years now.
Onsights? get to 7a happily again, 7a+ more often and maybe get a 7b onsight. That'd be a proud day.

Indoors:
Since the enforced break, I'm back to several low 7's clean in a session, though wall variety is lacking.
Have finger boarded 2-3 times this year, need to make this regular.
Got fat too, so also need to do some proper exercise etc.

Upcoming focus: Riglos & lleida end of May, Also have weekends June and July to possible big tick venues. Also want to get Skeleton Ridge done, any experience here?

In reply to Kevster: Nice to see you back Kev. Effort on The Butcher, I ran away from trying to second it, too steep for me.

Mon - New boulder set. No grades. Had an ace session, whizzed about after a few days off and just went at stuff I fancied. Knee playing up, so skipped lots of the last holds...
Tue - Saw the grades. Gutted. If I hadn't bailed on the top move of one problem, I'd have had my first V4 at Pinnacle, a flash too. Right miffed. Rubbish session, was tired, sore and hadn't eaten all day.
Wed - Drove to Wales after work.
Thu - Glyder Fawr with a mate, it was his last Welsh 3000. He'd never climbed before at all but tied a rope on him and shot off up Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs. Soloing basically as he couldn't belay. It rained on pitch 2, pitch 3 was running water and by the time we topped out to do Cneiffon Arete, Omar was bolloxed. So Senior's Ridge and the summit it was.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Worked late.
Sun - Worked. Was gonna do something but hayfever killed me off.

Gonna head in now and try to get that V4, it felt like V2 at the time, which is why I wasn't over fussed about the top move. Been trying to protect the knees lately, which I guess is more important than grade chasing.
I think Monday was the best boulder session I've had at Pinnacle to be honest. I ate before I went (rare), had rested 4 days and warmed up on two routes... plenty to think about there.

In reply to mrchewy: Edit - checked the grades again today and it seemed one of the the other problems I flashed was a V4. First V4 at Pinnacle but Jordon set it not Alex. Still, saw a few people back off the top move today who are far better climbers than I am.

Trip report time this week, as this weekend Jo B was here and we had four days climbing in a row. My skin is trashed. It was my first proper sport climbing trip since I became a dad, and so I didn't want to pressure myself with too many goals. So my main goal was to enjoy the luxury of four days climbing in a row BUT I did want to tick (at least) 7a onsight and try a 7c. Jo, fresh from recently ticking his 3rd 8a at LPT, wanted to onsight 7b+.

FRI - Pick up Jo from airport in Barcelona and drive to Camarasa. A mostly quiet day because Jo was tired from waking up at 4am. I muffed the OS of a 7a but ticked it first RP pretty easily. Rest of the day was 6s in sector La Selva, out of the sun. It's already way to hot to climbing in the sun!!

SAT - Hungover from the bottle of Jura that Jo bought. But battled on through and had a good day in Abella de la Conca. Onsighted a 30m 7a in great style - no chalked holds, no draws, and no hint of any beta. Dead chuffed. Jo thought it was probably 7a+ if not soft 7b. Abella grades are apparently reknowned for being stiff. Then we played on a 7b+ roof which was fun, but neither of us got near it on redpoint. So we retired to the refuge to completely fail to not-drink scotch! :S

SUN - Woke up feeling very tired. We went back to La Selva in Camarasa to climb with a local climbing friend who is leaving Barcelona, so last time to see him. After warming up I muffed the flash of a 6c+/7a and I was pretty pissed off. Things picked afterwards as I flashed a 7a+ and 7b in quick succession. They were both probably easier than the 7a from saturday, but hey, you've got to take the guidebook ticks! Then worked the moves of a lovely 7b+ tufa. Was pretty tired so didn't have a RP burn (I regret that a bit now) but it will go next time I'm certain.

MON - Wasn't expecting much today as last night I could barely make a fist, the skin on my fingers was in so much pain. And so it proved. We went south to Arbolí (for various reasons) and after warming up I worked the moves on a 7c and got completely shut down by the crux. I just couldn't do it. Then I split a tip while trying to onsight a crimpy 7b, which was a sign to say that the trip was officially over.

So, in summary: a great trip with plenty of good climbing and onsights/flashes in the 7a/7b range. Was a bit disappointed to have been shut down by the 7c but it was the 4th day on and my fingers are a complete mess, so no real surprise. Jo ticked his 7b+ OS too, so chuffed for him. This week? I shall mostly be working/resting!

In reply to mattrm: Cheers buddy. Equally decent weather this weekend has allowed me to amass another decent list.

Tried to get to Robin Hood stride on Tuesday after work. Far too warm, no breeze and the midges were out. Rock was literally sweating. Thought it was time to call grit season to a close. Until the weekend. Think I'm going to try and get a few evening sessions in at rubicon as it doesn't seem to bad to get there after work.

M-nothing
T-Robin Hood stride. Tried big alq and bens wall. Soooo greasy.
W-big core session at the wall. 750 core movements, 200 press ups and 3x 2:30 and 1x 4:30 plank.
T-rest day
F- ilkley. Got there at 7:30pm. Warmed up in the quarry. Then went and ticked Doris direct (7B+/C) third go and then ring piece (7B/+) after a bit of work just before it went dark.
S- earl crag. Took it easy due to sore skin. Did grape nut (7A+/B) then desert island arête from sit (7A+/B) and then finished ticking sloping beauty (7B/+).
S- almscliffe. Warmed up and then got on Jess' roof (7C) fell off the crux on the flash. Got it about 5th go when I sacked off technique and decided to just lock the crimp in front lever. Went and flashed a demon wall eliminate (7B/+) before firing off underhand (7B+) third go. I did it second go but dabbed (ninja kicked spotter on the cut loose). Fell off the match of top cat traverse about 6 times and trashed all my skin.
M- finished at Brimham today which was shit. Crappy compared to the rest of Yorkshire and there were more kids than at my school. Did about 5 very poor quality (7A/+)s. Wasn't impressed. But then my skin was trashed. Just in the pub for victory sausage and mash.

Also just done a short core session as I've been slacking with all the climbing. 360core movements 100pressups and 6 mins of plank

It can be there every week if folk want it to? I was just doing it out of curiosity to see who was on the list and where folk where. Does seem like a lot of folk are at 7a/+ onsights and 7b and 7c redpoints, but not yet moved up to 8a.

Spent most of the week sorting stuff out for the shed. Chuffed with the 1 min 16 secs bring sally up. Was over at my parents house totally wierded Mum out as I was doing power screams on the last few ups before I collapsed. Busy week ahead, destroying the outside loo & coal shed and building a new retaining wall and series of raised beds. Doubt I'll get any climbing done and will probably be fairly broken by the end of the week.

Thanks Matt! It’s certainly good to do some proper exercise this week.

A question for you and FitClubbers… What is a good yearly total of real rock to aim for as a weekend climber? Stats for 2014 currently on 47 trad routes, 7 sport routes and 122 boulder problems according to UKC (more like 150 with ones that aren’t on it and I haven’t got round to adding)… I know it depends on grade/multipitch etc but just want to set some kind of target to see how it goes.

M – Boulder Brookes. Warm up on greens 2 new blue circuit problems (red and black) Worked grey pushy one - nearly there
T – Boulder Milton Keynes. 10x orange circuit 10x black circuit 3xpink circuit (V3-5) - quite pleasing Nearly have a v4-6 - just need to be fresher and not to have other people starting routes crossing my problem when I’m already on the wall.
W – Boulder Milton Keynes. Well not really – paid £8 for a warm up x 4 problems then flashed the yellow V4-6 I didn't get yesterday as it was driving me mad.
T – Rest
F – Rest
S – Trad Stanage Popular up to HVS 5b. An 18-star haul from 9 routes. Mississippi Buttress is a true joy. Can’t believe I haven’t done it before!
S – Boulder Froggatt Pinnacle x 20 problems. Traumatised lots of walkers with the ungainly pull round on Air Bear.

> Nick Russell - It's nice just to tick easy stuff and have fun from time to time. Even more Lakes classics. Nice.

Thanks matt, yeah enjoying the classics at the moment. Lots more climbing for me this week too, with a good mix of harder stuff in there too.

> (In reply to 8a club) Not far (7b+)

It feels like a long way! I reckon one of those grades will come from trying a route for longer that 2-3 sessions, another will come from training over the next few months, but that still leaves one more...

M - Swimming (4.5km)
T - Bouldering at Bloc. Got another of the yellows, plus good efforts on some steep stuff on the front wall.
W - Ban-y-Gor with hms. Flash/OS of 6b+,6b,6c and started on a 7b+ project (Latest Craze, same as hms). I think I figured out all the moves - it's an arete with heel hooks all the way up - and even have a good idea of where to make the clips. It's definitely a go-er, maybe next time if I rest the day before.
Swimming (2.9km)
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - am Parkrun. New 5km/parkrun PB of 19:55! This was the Shrewsbury course, much easier than Ashton Court and net downhill (2 'up' segments to 3 'down', only about 20m each, I think). Pleased with that.
pm Climbing at World's End (Clwyd). 9 E-points, and an E4 onsight (World's Edge, E4 6a)! Chuffed with that too, even if the ukc votes say it's soft.
S - More Clwyd, Pinfold. Highlight was 'Solo in Soho', E3 6a and a very good route.

A good week: decent progress on a sport project, 5km/Parkrun PB and an E4 onsight.

I also feel like the bouldering was coming back pretty quickly and had a productive physio session on Tuesday.

I still think that using twin ropes on Latest Craze might be the way to do that tricky 3rd clip. Looking forward to another go at it - maybe I should risk using my new shoes as I'm starting to trust them more!

Had a solid week of climbing; bouldering, sport and trad ticks. Pleasantly surprised by my trad head-space after not placing gear since last August! Current sport fitness meant that I could stay super in control despite the lofty grades.

MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- Buy a house and build some home training faciliites
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham (had a weird allergic reaction last time I went on the extension)
- Recently found and done all the individual moves on a great looking 7C+/8A f8b-ish link-up FA; love to get this ticked!
- Bolt the Dinbren project (Luke Owens - thanks for the drill loan!)
- On-sight some E5s in prep for...
- Brandler-Hasse Cime Grande
- Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – amazed to be getting close despite eating loads this week - 74.5kg and 6.5% BF this morning

STG (The coming week)
- Keep physio’ing the shoulder
- Do a 7C so I’ve got an ascent in each of the UKC “top ascents” categories

Last week:M - Pantymwyn evening session – progress on a bunch of things. Got twisted into crux of Be Ruthless for the 1st time. Did campus move on Thug Mentality a few times, just never from the back! Pair of 7B ticks - Mental Extension & Guth Mentality.T - Gentle racecourse wall traverses breaking in new boots.W - Weights, core and shoulder physio.T - Rest – ate far too much bread and cheese.F - Evening at Kilnsey. 6c, 7a warm-ups. 7c+ dog. Car bivvy after slap up dinner and beer.S - Kilnsey, same warm-ups, then 2nd 7c+ RP. Tried Indian Summer, 8b+. No chance – scrub that off the to-do-list. Social call at Malham, 7a+ warm-down. Great dinner with Ali, Quiddity, Curious Yellow et al.S - Nesscliffe. E2 6a, E7 6c TR, E4 6a flash, E7 6c HP; felt great being able to shake out all the way up, E5 6b flash. Pizza, beer, wine, whiskey and late night banter.M - Strong scene at Nesscliffe. E8 6c TR, E8 6c HP (in a rain shower, oops!), E6 6c TR, E7 6c TR; some good stuff to go back for?
Then some fat punter pulled the wobbly jug off the top of My Piano an hour after I’d lead it and verbalised my fears for its solidity pulling over the top. Close call!

Slotting in the E8 HP as if it was slightly insignificant there! Great effort. Although, ballsy trad - as was demonstrated by the jug break isn't currently my thing!

I'm in Spain in 2 weeks. So I'm routing then. Looking to get some Yorkshire visits in soon though as well. I'm still in training mode at the moment so hopefully I'll be a bit stronger in a couple of months.

If you're eagar, 50 sessions in a year is not unusual I'd say. If your obsessed, I bet 100 is not un common.
I live 2.5 hours from the nearest crag. All I have included here are outside climbs. But I have had 2-3 holidays per year - spring, autumn and new year. Week each time, which boosts the numbers.

The Diary section of your logbook will give the stats.
You asked for quanities of routes, number of sessions may be a better measure:

I climbed , including a couple of weeks holiday each year climbing
285 routes in 2011 over 63 sessions
219 routes in 2012 over 54 sessions
126 routes in 2013 over 39 sessions
37 so far this year over 7 sessions (excluding the 3 days at new year holidays).

2011 was a good summer for me with about 7 days per month outside, with a few holidays thrown in. I also helped set up a club, so had a reasonable volume of lower grade climbs.
2012 was less prolific, but I started to work on trad a bit more than sport. I also got girlfriended up this year.
2013 was a terrible year for weather, and I went on non climbing holidays (GF). I also only did one day after mid September due to life and weather.
However, I upped my trad grade well. Sport has remained constant since 2010.
This year, injury has had me out of action for a couple of months.

In reply to Kevster: Interesting stats - not looked at that feature of the logbooks before.

Admittedly there is only a record of my outdoor climbs:

326 routes in 2010 over 87 sessions
351 routes in 2011 over 100 sessions
313 routes in 2012 over 92 sessions
473 routes in 2013 over 116 sessions
157 so far this year over 39 sessions

Add in 3 indoor sessions a week for 3 or 4 months of the year (hardly ever train indoors if the weather permits) and I might have a total of >150 sessions in a year!

Think I might fit into your "obsessed" definition!

So that's a good volume of outdoor climbing which correlates neatly with my thinking that I'm a climber who can move well, but is fundamentally weak compared to my peers. I.e. i get burnt off by f7b climbers on a 45 degree board.

Thanks Matt!! Cold much improved and definitely feeling better for getting back to a proper diet - it was really interesting how much it affected me, and I did pretty well in getting a balanced diet within my budget. Makes you realise what a difference diet makes to your ability to think, exercise and live normally.

Anyway, onto last week (and this Monday as bank holiday).

M - nothing - cooked
T - Biscuit Factory - warmed up ok, did a couple of decent problems then abandoned early as feeling light-headed
W - 25 min morning jog in the park - very slow, but picked some dandelion leaves for dinner!
T - nothing (too ill/knackered to run to work)
F - nothing
S - Malham, beautiful Malham! Dogged and TR Rose Coronary to warm up, then got on Tremalo on top rope to try and work the moves out. Found it very hard, hurt core, hurt fingers, hurt wrist, felt waaay too hard. Second go marginally better. Note to self - must remember to warm up core...and maybe actually do some training...
S - orienteering - a short but brutal course in the rain which somehow took me 100mins, mainly because I spent the first third bent double walking through tree branches, the second third running then getting a bit lost, and the final third trudging through heather and bilberry bushes. Felt totally and utterly wasted but amazing cheescake aided recovery
M - Malham again - warmed up on Rose, then had a warm up go and a good go on Tremalo. Got all the moves I think, though some bits I reckon I may need to work a better sequence. But need to get stronger and a lot lot fitter before I can seriously start getting on lead and redpointing it. Awesome moves though - project!!

Very proud of the boy for getting his first 7a tick (previous best 6b!) which means potentially more Malham time :D

Thanks very much Kev- really helpful especially since I'm fairly new to this. I'm in Oxford during the week and quite often have to work weekends so it's a case of fitting things in but I shall aspire to the "obsessed" 100 sessions!

Last year I managed my first climbing holiday for a week in Wadi Rum - 6 sessions but that only represents about 8 long multipitch epic routes! This year I took up outdoor bouldering during the winter, so I'll have to keep an eye on the routes vs problems breakdown as that is probably a false indicator of volume vs previous years.

In reply to mattrm: Ok another past poster here (we are all coming out of the woodwork) I have been very unstructured of late and need a kick up the backside and reading Kevster is back motivated me! While I have been away I have not been idle! Have managed a few trips and been doing some training but need more focus to break into the goals!

Recent positives: Sport 7c (Priapos in Kaly), onsight 7b in Kaly. Agee other 7b's and 7b+s, all the moves on 8a Angelika and tried Daniboy over two sessions!

Bouldering at Dumbarton Rock (Love this place) very close (overlapping 2 parts) on 7B Mestizo traverse! All the moves on 7B+ Consolidated! No ticks yet but vv close.

So goals well could I be put down for the 8a club please, any recommendations of one closeish to London that the wife and a little one can access and not disturb other crag users! Within 3ish hours! If not I will be going to France Dordogne for 3 weeks in August/sept anyone been any recomendations?? Barring that hopefully day trips somewhere, I have got on the Cider Soak before but it's a bit far! Also got on Entree at Two Tier but this felt desperate and not my style!

MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- V7 (the Gutter, Roaches)
- trip to Dordogne 7c minimum!
- indoor V7
- try and get 2 days out each month on rock (fatherhood)
- Get the board in the Abbey built with Ben!
- Weight under 77kg by August trip.

STG (The coming week)
- Start back at conditioning focussing on gymnastic related core strength.
- begin strength phase in periodised program.
- maybe become a dad!!!! Or next week!

Last week:
M - ME wall session up to V6, Beastmaker first set of 7C workout! One arm pulls locks and negatives with 5kg resistance.
T- warm up V2-V4 30 probs, campus session on big rungs (not as bad as I thought it would be)
W- boulder ME mileage session working on weaknesses.
T- warm up V2-3 30 probs, campus better than last session and one arm lock lowers and then max throws! After this flashed a V6 recruitment bouldering for 30 mins!
F- Rest
S- the Roaches! Lovely day though a bit warm tried the big dyno again but same spot ( I suck at dyno's) need to work them more! Got on Mushin and nearly held the pod but later got better beta to go with the left hand off the undercuts! Moved onto the gutter and bottom moves felt easy but stupidly tried eliminating the obvious pocket on the face but later found out it is the pocket in the crack that wasn't in!! Dumb dumb!! Should go next time! Moves out of cave are solid and fun! After that mileage session up to 6C some amazing problems and had lots of fun running around!
Su- ME projecting but tired and bad skin, poor session

Weight this week at 81.5 kg need to get it down though I am not fat ??

> Humperdink - Watched the vid. Super fast. Kept expecting the guy who won to blow up but he didn't. You were in a white vest with stripes right? Looking at your watch a lot? Or blue shorts? Anyway well done on the PB. It was amazingly fast. Super effort there.

Thanks Matt - good guess but I was neither of those! (finished ahead of both of them). Our club colours are blue with white side panels and I was the slower of the two!

> Si Cox - wb matey. Onsight V5, but only climbing E1? Me thinks you need to up those grades a little. E4 is surely possible? Pick some well protected E2s and see how you go.

Well, I was probably going to say how things were going nicely, but as I was about to make an overhanging dynamic move from a two finger pocket on Monday, I heard an ominous 'pop' come from my left hand. I knew immediately what I had done - damaged a pulley (A2, I think) in my left ring finger.

Having read a few articles and posts on the internet, it seems it is not a rupture or too badly injured. However, it means a layoff from climbing for me for the foreseeable future.

Probably best, as I've been carrying quite a few niggles, and need to sort them out. Not very good at resting, which is probably similar to a lot of people on here. Just don't want to trash my hand indefinitely by being reckless with it.

In terms of Fit Club, I'm going to keep ticking over with managing my back pain, and perhaps see about some running or swimming in a week or so.

And, yes, there is a discrepancy between V5 and E1, but I've never managed to get a big enough run at trad to pick up the grades. It's a confidence thing with me and time on the rock. Until this injury, it's been the longest and most consistent period I've had indoors, and was feeling pretty good about my climbing.

Finger pop doesn't mean no climbing; no climbing at all will probably mean you'll heal in a way that is bad for climbing in the long run (been there, done that).

Lower the grade, lower the angle, get in some mileage and if it's just a tweak then you should be building back up to your top grade in 6 weeks or so.

I'm two weeks into a finger tweak and operating at 85% intensity at the moment on my left hand. The only thing i'm completely avoiding is front 3 and middle 2 pockets as it puts an added strain on my injured ring finger.

Avoid pockets and I also found going too easy was bad indoors. The massive jugs you get on the easier routes pushed onto the sore pulley and really irritated it. I hurt it the other day pulling a wheelie bin because of that.

Again just to agree with Ally outdoors doesn't hurt my finger. Indoors wrecks it. On a course atm and have to climb indoors and it's really sore, even though it's easy climbing. Outdoors I'm pulling as hard as I ever have done.

Evening: Nesscliffe, Got extremely close to Northumberland Wonderland (7A+) falling off the last move, really greasy conditions. Repeated the 6B+.

Tuesday: Repeated a 6B+, came close on a 7A and had a few goes on Pantys Down (7A+) going to stick at this one.

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Rest

Friday: Nesscliffe, did Northumberland Wonderland. amazing feeling getting this, the topout is sketchy on your own with one pad and I fell off it the go before I did it. Video here: http://www.vimeo.com/93767597

Best problem I've ever done for sure! Worked the moves on the 7C traverse "Little Northumberland" also.

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Nesscliffe, back on the 7C can do all the moves apart from one and did a good link. Once the body position is sorted for the move I can't do it'll be on. Psyched!