Location: North Yorkshire, UK
Service Number: A10/TQ1.0.82125E1
Country: United Kingdom

Thought I would have a go at building a pulse rifle that had seen a bit of action from stuff I had lying around. The base for the build I had to purchase specifically, namely the Airsoft Thompson and SpaS 12, although these are reletively expensive it is hoped that the rest of the build will bring the overall cost down.This build is a kitchen table top build using the following tools:Tenon sawHack sawJunior hack sawMitre blockStanley knifeExacto knife/scalpelElectric hand drillScrew drivers (various)Scroll sawElastic bandsPlastic clampsMilliput body fillerHot glue gunGorilla gluePVA glueSuper glueThe finished build will not be an EXACT screen copy, and some parts will be inacurate because of the stuff I have to work with.Mistakes will be NOTED and where possible alternatives offered.Also suggestions from other members will be incorporated and if not fully adopted, reasons will be given.

The next two images show my build so far and the following images is the journey of how I got there.

Any suggestions or queries are welcomed.

More images to follow.....

Attachment:

Just a pile of stuff that will eventually be an M41A pulse rifle28783047_10155645948623802_8726605734168494080_n.jpg [ 60.14 KiB | Viewed 3235 times ]

But I gotta say this build from the OP is already off to a much better start than mine. It was a bit slap dash (figuring the 4 year old wouldn't mind the weak points and the grownups weren't going to scrutinize it! )

Location: North Yorkshire, UK
Service Number: A10/TQ1.0.82125E1
Country: United Kingdom

Yes it is 1:1 scale, I have a bit of sanding to do on the orange Thompson body which I had overlooked in my previous post, however I will do a complete breakdown on all the individual parts c/w images if it will help others with their own builds.

The Thompson and Franchi SpaS are, as rightly identified as (sprung) airsoft weapons, the sliding breach block is wood with a layer of steel from an old PC case and part of a UK coaxial connector, barrels are PVC plumbing pipe. The PR's shroud wil be made from 5mm and 3mm thickness ABS plastic sheet.

I hasten to add that this build is a kitchen table top build and most ofthe shaping work has been done using body filler, a dremmel, hack saw, and various grades of sand paper and a 12" mini scroll saw. It is by no stretch of the imagination going to be an exact perfect replica.

Watch this space...........more to follow.

Transmission terminated.

_________________My mommy always said there were no monsters, no real ones... but there are.

Last edited by UK_Jackson on Sun Mar 11, 2018 5:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

Location: North Yorkshire, UK
Service Number: A10/TQ1.0.82125E1
Country: United Kingdom

Both the Thompson and the SpaS were bought new from https://bbguns4less.co.uk/ although I do believe that there is a 'Halloween 1930's gangster costume' that has a Thompson that will suffice but I had no luck in sourcing the stick magazined version on its own, as most of them come with a drum that is moulded in and I am too lazy to prat about with that modification.The Thompson was just under £30.00 GBP and the SpaS was more expensive (a better quality weapon) but I could not find anything cheaper.The ABS plastic sheeting I bought off Ebay and it is worth taking the time to find the cheapest prices.

3) I used a dermmel fitted with a small sanding drum to create the ejection port (approx 45 degree angle to main body) and using small piece of 21.5 mm PVC plumbing pipe on inside of Right side of body used filler to shape ejection port so that there is no gap between body and barrel. Then re-shaped using dremmel.

4) After marking the location of the Sliding Breach Aperture I again used dremmel to sand the opening (a steady hand is needed as dremmel tends to wander (see front of slot as mine drifted up slightly)), finish using sand paper or wet and dry.

5) I used 21.5mm uPVC plumbing pipe for main barrel, this needs to be slotted to accommodate forward joining screw and long enough to reach first bulk head (again using the trusty dremmel). Some of the internal supports need to be removed so barrel will slide freely up to bulk head (only remove what needs removing). Pack both halves with filler, and lube the top of the filler then clamp both sides together, lube the slotted end of barrel and insert. Leave to cure. Remove barrel and separate halves. Thus a smooth home is formed for the barrel.

Attachment:

Slotted barrel20180311_052517.jpg [ 111.9 KiB | Viewed 3121 times ]

_________________My mommy always said there were no monsters, no real ones... but there are.

7) Another piece of the 5mm plastic acts as a bottom guide to the new breach block and the black object encased in filler on the left of the image is a rubber grommet to act as damper for the breach block to prevent damage to the internal structures.

9) the wood is shaped so that it does not interfere with internal structures although some do require removing. The metal is cut from an old P.C. hard drive shell and the bolt is part of a UK co-axial connector.

Attachment:

Shaped wood20180311_052931.jpg [ 90.75 KiB | Viewed 3119 times ]

10) Add the spring to the bottom of the breech block and the screw on the leading edge lines up to meet the grommet on the inside Right half.

_________________MSgt Matt Bradley 'Crashdown' (Formerly Mattb)A12/TQ2.0.82145E1CO UKCM 13th Regt. 1st Batt. 'Freebooters'"There are very few problems that cannot be solved through a suitable application of high explosives."

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