Frequently Asked Questions

Thanks for asking. If the Lord's willing and the creek don't rise, I'll try to get back to posting again on a regular basis. And I still remain determined to get back to posting.

Isteasing okay on the internet?

Teasing can often be a form of bonding. Among friends, it may be a type of intimacy that affirms shared values. Perhaps, with strangers, it serves as an icebreaker. But, remember that there is the occasional sourpuss who is too uptight to be teased.

Why can't guys learn to fight for friendship?

To paraphrase a NYT article from 10-26-2012: At past 40, Joe (or Jeff or Jim) and my friendship ended. There was no dramatic blowup on my part: it just evaporated. It seems I hurt or disappointed or pissed-off or annoyed or let down Joe or Jeff or Jim down in some way, and he decided to cancel the friendship rather than to confront me. Joe and I haven’t spoken in years, but for a cool encounter or two. I understand.

From the NYT article:I would love to say that I am psyching myself up to stop caring about what is expected of me and sit down and hash things out with [Joe or Jeff or Jim]. I would be lying, though.Imagine it. I’d have to call (and that’s already a nonstarter because then I’d be using a phone) but imagine anyway: I call [Joe or Jeff or Jim] and say: “I feel sad that we had a falling out. I care about you. I would like us to be friends. What did I do wrong? Come on, yell at me. I can take it.” Not happening. ... I care about him too much to fight with him. So no, I’ll never reach out to him and say all that stuff.

How does “The Corner Office: Indispensable and Unexpected Lessons From CEOs on How to Lead and Succeed,” by Adam Bryant, apply to clothing style?

Five qualities as applied to clothing style:

1) Passionate Curiosity--It's one's relentless questioning that spots new and different clothing opportunities, and understanding how these new or different clothing choices works for one.There’s a style energy in passionate curiosity about clothing.

2)Battle-Hardened Confidence--One's willingness to deal with diversity and adversity in style choices. Some embrace choice, adversity and diversity and don't look back. Self-confidence in one's unique style is a must.

3)Team Smarts--It's working on a team, being a team player and embracing style obscurity. It's having team smarts and artificial vanilla style. After all, why not sturdy and well-made clothing that look, in conclusion, like nothing special.

5) Fearlessness--Is one's style comfort zone being uncomfortable with conventional wisdom and group-thinking? What about clothing situations without familiar clothing paradigms, maps or compasses? Is it okay for one to resist the conventional wisdom and and go against the group-thinking in clothing styles? Can one make surprising clothing choices and thus enhance one's style? Can one let discomfort with group-thinking be in fact one's clothing comfort zone? That is to say, is one's style truly fearless?

What is the best shaving brush?

I've found the Silver Tip Badger one's to be the best.

Goyishe Kopf , which is more important in developing and presenting one's style: reason or emotion?

According to David Brooks (NYT 03-08-2011, p. A27):

"research illuminates a range of deeper talents, which span reason and emotion and make a hash of both categories:

Attunement: the ability to enter other minds and learn what they have to offer.

Equipoise: the ability to serenely monitor the movements of one’s own mind and correct for biases and shortcomings.

Metis: the ability to see patterns in the world and derive a gist from complex situations.

Sympathy: the ability to fall into a rhythm with those around you and thrive in groups.

Limerence: This isn’t a talent as much as a motivation. The conscious mind hungers for money and success, but the unconscious mind hungers for those moments of transcendence when the skull line falls away and we are lost in love for another, the challenge of a task or the love of God. Some people seem to experience this drive more powerfully than others."

"This body of research suggests the French enlightenment view of human nature, which emphasized individualism and reason, was wrong. The British enlightenment, which emphasized social sentiments, was more accurate about who we are. It suggests we are not divided creatures. We don’t only progress as reason dominates the passions. We also thrive as we educate our emotions."

"First, the unconscious parts of the mind are most of the mind, where many of the most impressive feats of thinking take place. Second, emotion is not opposed to reason; our emotions assign value to things and are the basis of reason. Finally, we are not individuals who form relationships. We are social animals, deeply interpenetrated with one another, who emerge out of relationships."

What exactly does the above say about tendency to become bored with style and dress?

The research seems to suggest that Attunement, Sympathy, and Limerence emphasize relationships among people. Thus, to the extent that dress style distances us from others we hold important, it loses centrality and importance over time as passions and emotions for group social sentiments supersede it. This is because it is in fact our emotions which give value to dress style and so underlines and produces our reasons for becoming bored with mere clothing concerns. Individual dress style conflicts with people being social animals who are profoundly intertwined with each other resulting from emotional needs for relationships. To the extent that Equipoise and Metis allow one to see value in individual dress style, then the strong emotional and social pressures that put dress style in the category of boring would be to some extent mitigated. However, most individuals will in fact yield over time to social pressures that must tax or even obliterate their interest individual style, independent of whatever so-call rational reason they present to others. It would seem that emotions and passions generated by social pressures most always trump individual style.

How does one best match and blend the pocket-square with the rest of the outfit?

Pick a great pocket-square (regardless of color) and it'll enrich and create interest for any outfit. Don't over-think it.

Isn’t is best to avoid a lame-ass potpourri of ugly clothing styles and have the integrity to try to emulate traditional men’s style?

Some traditionalists view clothing choices as a clash between merciless opponents of wardrobe styles. Thus maximum unity in style is sought. Psychologically, they are apt to rate high allegiance and shared aims. They want a state of affairs with idealistic ranks clearly drawn and style mandates bluntly enforced. Others are non-traditionalists who see a diversity of clothing styles--that style is a multifaceted jockeying of thoughts and interests. They are contented with weak ties to clothing traditions; they are relaxed with a diversity of approaches to style. It’s a distinction between diverse perspectives of how clothing choices are applied and thus individual style achieved. Traditionalists move toward safe clothing, have a meager sense for the wider style choices and labor from the perspective of style being a conflict of all against all. The consequences are unsurprising: narrow-mindedness, estrangement and feeling overwhelm. Non-traditionalists avoid musty categories.One doesn’t have to dump one’s principles to have a variety of clothing choices. One must recognize that there are other inhabitants in the style world. The traditionalist commentariat are fuming and sense the diminishing of their style and are crying in protest. They have self-confidence and false pride about their clothing choices together with a inferiority complex about how others view them. They perceive disquiet and bewilderment all around. Traditionalists seems to be most identifiable by what they are oppose to, than what they support and actually wear. However did anyone imagine varying the style choices was going to be trouble-free?

Why does everyone wear black in New York City?

Because it's the cool, hipster thing who are edgy and sophisticated--so they think. The only solace is that during the summer the lack of wide-spread air conditioning means the women tend to be under-clothed wearing sheer, brief, skimpy, thin, skin-baring outfits (while riding bicycles). Enough said.

What do you think of Luca Rubinacci's sartorial splendor?

Different strokes for different folks.

When should one cuff one's pants.

Always, sometimes, never. Many people prefer flat-front pants not to have cuffs, just pleated-pants for cuffs. I personally prefer cuffs on both flat and pleated front pants, but my wife prefers no cuffs, so I often let her decide.

How bothered are you by clothing that is starting to show wear and use?

The patina of age on clothing is more than okay. Age provides character and personality to one's clothing. Vintage clothing should be a part of everyone's wardrobe.

I have a five year old pair of nice shoes that I've worn regularly and are well maintained. They've developed small cracks in the leather. I'm bereft, what should I do?

Duh.

Why aren't there more size 34S suits and blazers?

Duh.

No ready to wear shoes fit me properly. What should I do?

Duh.

I brought some nice Allen Edmond and the stitching is wavy and crooked. What should I do?

I've worn these pants for several years now and the seat and other places have turned shiny. What should i do?

Duh.

Your garbage of a blog is the worst waste of time on the web. You don't know how to dress and you've wasted your substance on riotous clothing buying. Everyone I know dresses better than you. What are you going to do about it?

Duh.

Ready to wear suits and blazers don't fit me. What should do?

Duh.

I'm bored with clothing? What should I do?

Duh?

Why don't they make more heavy wool suits and blazers? What should I do?

King James BibleAnd why take ye thought for raiment? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin:

American King James VersionAnd why take you thought for raiment? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin:

American Standard VersionAnd why are ye anxious concerning raiment? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin:

Bible in Basic EnglishAnd why are you troubled about clothing? See the flowers of the field, how they come up; they do no work, they make no thread:

Douay-Rheims BibleAnd for raiment why are you solicitous? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow: they labour not, neither do they spin.

Darby Bible TranslationAnd why are ye careful about clothing? Observe with attention the lilies of the field, how they grow: they toil not, neither do they spin;

English Revised VersionAnd why are ye anxious concerning raiment? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin:

Webster's Bible TranslationAnd why are ye anxious for raiment? Consider the lilies of the field how they grow? they toil not, neither do they spin?

Weymouth New TestamentAnd why be anxious about clothing? Learn a lesson from the wild lilies. Watch their growth. They neither toil nor spin,

World English BibleWhy are you anxious about clothing? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow. They don't toil, neither do they spin,

Young's Literal Translationand about clothing why are ye anxious? consider well the lilies of the field; how do they grow? they do not labour, nor do they spin;

Can one have too many clothes?

Conventional wisdom is that one should not have too many clothes.

Luciano Barbera declares: “It is not enough to have beautiful clothes. Lots of people have beautiful clothes. In fact some, people have too many. What is important is what you do with them.” He also said: "I know I have said you can have too many clothes. But I take that back where shirts are concerned. The shirt is a triumph of modern life, like the automobile or the web. It is easy to put on and take off, quick to wash and easy to store. Plus, shirts look great. A man should own as many shirts as he wishes - the more the better. I personally have so many shirts that I sometimes walk into my closet, pull one out, and think to myself, 'Now where did that come from?' Having lots of shirts will allow you to surprise yourself with your own good taste."

How should one respond to criticisms laced with snark, snideness, rudeness, fifth-grade humor, player-hate, etc.?

Hollaback Girl Songwriters: Stefani, Gwen Renee; Williams, Pharrell;

Uh huh, this my shitAll the girls stomp your feet like this

A few times I've been around that trackSo it's not just gonna happen like that'Cause I ain't no Hollaback GirlI ain't no Hollaback Girl

A few times I've been around that trackSo it's not just gonna happen like that'Cause I ain't no Hollaback GirlI ain't no Hollaback Girl

Ooh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shit

I heard that you were talking shitAnd you didn't think that I would hear itPeople hear you talking like that, getting everybody fired upSo I'm ready to attack, gonna lead the packGonna get a touchdown, gonna take you outThat's right, put your pom-poms down, getting everybody fired up

A few times I've been around that trackSo it's not just gonna happen like that'Cause I ain't no Hollaback GirlI ain't no Hollaback Girl

A few times I've been around that trackSo it's not just gonna happen like that'Cause I ain't no Hollaback GirlI ain't no Hollaback Girl

Ooh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shit

So that's right dude, meet me at the bleachersNo principals, no student-teachersAll the boys want to be the winner, but there can only be oneSo I'm gonna fight, gonna give it my allGonna make you fall, gonna sock it to youThat's right, I'm the last one standing, another one bites the dust

A few times I've been around that trackSo it's not just gonna happen like that'Cause I ain't no Hollaback GirlI ain't no Hollaback Girl

A few times I've been around that trackSo it's not just gonna happen like that'Cause I ain't no Hollaback GirlI ain't no Hollaback Girl

Ooh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shit

Let me hear you say, this shit is bananasB A N A N A SThis shit is bananasB A N A N A SAgain, the shit is bananasB A N A N A SThis shit is bananasB A N A N A S

Few times I've been around that trackSo it's not just gonna happen like that'Cause I ain't no Hollaback GirlI ain't no Hollaback Girl

A few times I've been around that trackSo it's not just gonna happen like that'Cause I ain't no Hollaback GirlI ain't no Hollaback Girl

Ooh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shitOoh, this my shit, this my shit

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Who is the best dressed man?

Women are watched; men are seen. As Albert Camus wrote women are all we can know of earthly paradise. If you doubt this, then try and a take look at one of the best dressed men--Robert Palmer(RIP)--of recent times as opposed to the women surrounding him:

Addicted To Love

Your lights are on, but you're not homeYour mind is not your ownYour heart sweats, your body shakesAnother kiss is what it takes

You can't sleep, you can't eatThere's no doubt, you're in deepYour throat is tight, you can't breatheAnother kiss is all you need

Ohh oohhyou like to think that you're immune to the stuff...o yehIt's closer to the truth to say you can't get enoughyou know you're gonna have to face ityou're addicted to love

You see the signs, but you can't readYou're runnin' at a different speedYou heart beats in double timeAnother kiss and you'll be mine, a one track mind

You can't be savedOh baby, young love is all you craveIf there's some left for youYou don't mind if you do

Ohh oohhYou like to think that you're immune to the stuffIt's closer to the truth to say you can't get enough,you know you're gonna have to face ityou're addicted to love

Might as well face it, you're addicted to love(5x)

Your lights are on, but you're not homeYour will is not your ownYou're heart sweats and teeth grindAnother kiss and you'll be mine

Ohh oohhyou like to think that you're immune to the stuffIt's closer to the truth to say you can't get enoughyou know you're gonna have to face ityou're addicted to love

Might as well face it, you're addicted to love(8x)

Your lights are on, but you're not homeYour mind is not your ownYour heart sweats, your body shakesAnother kiss is what it takesYou can't sleep, you can't eatThere's no doubt, you're in deepYour throat is tight, you can't breatheAnother kiss is all you needWhoa, you like to think that you're immune to the stuff, oh yeahIt's closer to the truth to say you can't get enoughYou know you're gonna have to face it, you're addicted to loveYou see the signs, but you can't readYou're runnin' at a different speedYour heart beats in double timeAnother kiss and you'll be mine, a one track mindYou can't be savedOblivion is all you craveIf there's some left for youYou don't mind if you doWhoa, you like to think that you're immune to the stuff, oh yeahIt's closer to the truth to say you can't get enoughYou know you're gonna have to face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to love

Your lights are on, but you're not homeYour will is not your ownYou're heart sweats, your teeth grindAnother kiss and you'll be mineWhoa, you like to think that you're immune to the stuff, oh yeahIt's closer to the truth to say you can't get enoughYou know you're gonna have to face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to loveMight as well face it, you're addicted to love

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

What is the best pair of shoes for under $150? pants under $50? suit under $200? etc.?

Try Costco, outlet malls, Filenes Basement, K&G, H&M, Forever, etc.

Isn't bespoke clothing best? Isn't it like many of the important and finer things in life--it often takes a refinement of one's own sensibilities to make it truly and well worthwhile. While it doesn't mean one has to learn to like such things, isn't it a good reason not to dismiss them arbitrarily? Don't you even realize the major shortcomings of off-the-rack in the first place. Aren't certain elements of fit that go under-emphasized in off-the-rack due the fact that their uncontrolled for in production or easily fixed to by alterations, including: front/back balance, collar fit, sleeve shape, curvature and pitch, shaping in the chest/waist area, etc. Doesn't off-the-rack train the hoi polloi to accept the limitations of mass production and marketability. Bespoke diverges from the expectations and standards of off-the-rack, and one has to learn to like bespoke. You simply don't understand bespoke's unique conditions. Unless you appreciate, and accept unequivocally, bespoke's unique natural conditions you betray yourself as lacking insight into and empathy with the mysteries of bespoke's tortured history and complex present realities.

This common refrain is still chimed with certainty and stridency when addressing bespoke nonbelievers. This kind of rhetoric allows for a form of bespoke exceptionalism. Bespoke advocates employ it whether they are rejecting well-intentioned observations on bespoke mores or staring down the incredulity of outsiders confronted by egregious bespoke clothing choices. Not only can the criticism of bespoke outsiders be deflected in this way, even those with intimate ties to bespoke are frequently derided for failing to fully appreciate bespoke's superiority and nuances. Tastes like mileage varies. Off-the-rack has unexpected style and design, rather than depending on my one's limited design sensibility and the tailor's design sediment and range, which may produce a high quality, but uninteresting garment. Nevertheless, not everyone is looking for something unexpected found in fine clothing design. In the bespoke world in which clan ties and narrow loyalties are paramount, the nonbelievers are frequently derided for being Devils, tainted by the untoward manners and ideas of ready-to-wear styles and climes. To be an advocate of bespoke, there is an all-too-often expectation that one understands the overt rules and invented traditions as well as the unspoken codes of bespoke. Intuitively one is supposed to understand and be vigilant about bespoke's particular situation and conditions. Bespoke also includes nebulous claims that there is a singular bespoke way of doing things, that bespoke followers have a unique purchase on the world of the clothing, and that only bespoke can really understand it. Bespoke authorities claim a monopoly right to define and interpret clothing's unique conditions of superiority. In reality, social change, evolving attitudes and widespread aspirations toward clothing styles continue to challenge bespoke's monopoly on defining proper clothing.

What is a man's best accessory?

Being the accessory at the arm of an attractive women. Run-D.M.C. via Aerosmith may have explained better:

Walk This Way

Yo there's a Backseat lover thats always Under cover"Gonna talk to you" my daddy saySaid "You ain't seen nothin' till you're down on a muffinThen you're sure to be a changin' your ways"I met a cheerleaderWas a real young bleederAll the times I could reminisce'Cause the best things in lovin' with her sister and her cousinAnd started with a little kiss like this!Seesaw swingin' with the boys in the schoolAnd your feet flyin' up in the airI sing "Hey diddle diddle"Put your kitty in the middle of the swingLike you just don't careSo I took a big chance at the high school danceWith a lady who was ready to playWasn't me she was foolin''Cause she knew what she was doin'And I know'd love was here to stayWhen she told me toCHORUSWalk this way, talk this way, walk this way, talk this way,(She told me to) walk this way, talk this way, walk this way,talk this wayUh, just gimme a kiss!Like this.School girl sleezy with a classy kinda sassyLittle skirt's hangin way up her knee,There was three young ladies in the school gym lockerAnd I find they were looking a D.I was a high school loser, never made it with the ladiesTill the boys told me somethin' I missed,Then my next door neighbor had a daughter had a favorSo I gave her just a little kiss alike thisSeesaw swingin' with the boys in the schoolAnd your feet flyin' up in the air,I sing "Hey diddle diddle"Put your kitty in the middle of the swingLike you just don't care.So I took a big chance at the high school danceWith a missy who was ready to play,Wasn't me she was foolin''Cause she knew what she was doin'When she told me how to walk this way.She told me toWalk this way, talk this way, walk this way, talk this way,(She told me to) walk this way, talk this way, walk this way,talk this wayAh just gimmie some head.

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

How best to match belt and shoe; tie and suit; etc.?

Do contrasting colors, and avoid matchy-matchy.

Where can one get bullet-proof shoes?

Dr. Martens.

Where can one get a bullet-proof suit?

Take a time machine back to 1980 Sears Roebucks and buy a Johnny Carson double-knit polyester suit.

Aren't fine quality shoes and clothes delicate?

Yes.

Should one do as Ralph Lauren (nee Lifshitz) and dress British and think Yiddish; or should one do like Hank Greenberg (formerly of AIG) and dress Yiddish and think British?

I'm thinking …...

What should one do when other men dress at work, restaurants, parties, meetings, etc. in horrid and beastly ways?

Since all I know is that women are watched and men are seen, I've never personally observed this. Nevertheless, should not one be a role model of how to be properly accoutremented so the great unwashed can be inspired. Some charmed people have the time and energy to love nothing more than being offended. In fact some expend a substantial amount time hoping for the opportunity to be offended. They take pride in maintaining a low barrier to being offended so as they can readily judge and rank others--missing a chance to be offended would be a tragedy.

King James BibleFor the love of money is the root of all evil: which while some coveted after, they have erred from the faith, and pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

American King James VersionFor the love of money is the root of all evil: which while some coveted after, they have erred from the faith, and pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

American Standard VersionFor the love of money is a root of all kinds of evil: which some reaching after have been led astray from the faith, and have pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

Bible in Basic EnglishFor the love of money is a root of all evil: and some whose hearts were fixed on it have been turned away from the faith, and been wounded with unnumbered sorrows.

Douay-Rheims BibleFor the desire of money is the root of all evils; which some coveting have erred from the faith, and have entangled themselves in many sorrows.

Darby Bible TranslationFor the love of money is the root of every evil; which some having aspired after, have wandered from the faith, and pierced themselves with many sorrows.

English Revised VersionFor the love of money is a root of all kinds of evil: which some reaching after have been led astray from the faith, and have pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

Webster's Bible TranslationFor the love of money is the root of all evil: which while some have coveted, they have erred from the faith, and pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

Weymouth New TestamentFor from love of money all sorts of evils arise; and some have so hankered after money as to be led astray from the faith and be pierced through with countless sorrows.

World English BibleFor the love of money is a root of all kinds of evil. Some have been led astray from the faith in their greed, and have pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

Young's Literal Translationfor a root of all the evils is the love of money, which certain longing for did go astray from the faith, and themselves did pierce through with many sorrows;

Bitch Gwen Stefani stole Tevye the dairyman song:Rich Girl

If I was a Rich GirlNaSee, I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girlNo man could test me, impress me, my cash flow would never ever endCause I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girl

Think what that money could bringI'd buy everythingClean out Vivienne WestwoodIn my Galliano gownNo, wouldn't just have one hoodA Hollywood mansion if I couldPlease book me first class to my fancy house in London town

All the riches baby, won't mean anythingAll the riches baby, bring what your love can bringAll the riches baby, won't mean anythingDon't need no other babyYour lovin' is better than gold and I know

If I was rich girl (na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na nah)See, I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girlNo man could test me, impress me, my cash flow would never ever endCause I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girlI'd get me four Harajuku girls toInspire me and they'd come to my rescueI'd dress them wicked, I'd give them namesLove, Angel, Music, BabyHurry up and come and save me

All the riches baby, won't mean anythingAll the riches baby, bring what your love can bringAll the riches baby, won't mean anythingDon't need no other babyYour lovin' is better than gold and I know

Come together all over the worldFrom the hoods of japan Harajuku girlsWhat? It's all loveWhat? Give it upWhat?(shouldn't matter)What?Come together all over the worldFrom the hoods of japan Harajuku girlsWhat? It's all the loveWhat? Give it upWhat? (shouldn't matter)What happened to my life? Turned up side downChicks that blew ya mind, ding, it's the second roundOriginal track and tingYou know you can't buy these thingsSee Stefani and her L.A.M.B I rock the fetish people you know who I am

Yes ma'am, we got the style that's wickedI hope you can all keep upWe climbed all the way from the bottom to the topnow we ain't gettin' nothing but love

If I was rich girl (na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na nah)See, I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girlNo man could test me, impress me, my cash flow would never ever endCause I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girl

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

If you have to ask, then you'll never know. Patty Loveless provides this guidance:

Patty LovelessDon't Toss Us Away

Well it seems that everyone we knowThe loves grown cold, while ours stand the stormOne by one they breakIt such a shameAnd now you say you want to do the sameDon't toss us awaySo thoughtlesslyIt just ain't rightOh can't you see?I still love youI want you to stayDarlin please don't toss us awayWell just think of all that we been throughThe world we're building..me and youHow could all those years be tossed awayIn just one moment..in just one dayDon't toss us awayIt just ain't rightTo let love die without a fightI still love youI want you to stayDarlin please don't toss us awaySo now I'm asking once againTo understand, to be my friendOh it hurts so bad to think you'd goBut still the same, I love you soDon't toss us awaySo thoughtlesslyIt just ain't rightOh can't you see?I still love youI want you to stayDarlin please, don't toss us awayOh darlin pleaseDon't toss us away

Well it seems that everyone we knowThe loves grown cold, while ours stand the stormOne by one they breakIt such a shameAnd now you say you want to do the sameDon't toss us awaySo thoughtlesslyIt just ain't rightOh can't you see?I still love youI want you to stayDarlin please don't toss us awayWell just think of all that we been throughThe world we're building..me and youHow could all those years be tossed awayIn just one moment..in just one dayDon't toss us awayIt just ain't rightTo let love die without a fightI still love youI want you to stayDarlin please don't toss us awaySo now I'm asking once againTo understand, to be my friendOh it hurts so bad to think you'd goBut still the same, I love you soDon't toss us awaySo thoughtlesslyIt just ain't rightOh can't you see?I still love youI want you to stayDarlin please, don't toss us awayOh darlin pleaseDon't toss us away

Be true to thine self. The rules are most often just rules of thumb--c.f.: conventional wisdom--that give guidance as a starting point rather than an end unto itself. As Luciano Barbera said: "Everyone knows you wear wool in the winter, linen in the summer, and a straw hat from June 15th to Labor Day. Everyone is right. And therein lies the problem. Follow these rules and you will look like everyone else. Better that you display a little originality. On the gravest days of winter I put on my gray flannels, a cashmere tie in a sober color and my white linen jacket. The pants keep me warm. The tie gains me entrée into good restaurants. The blazer reminds me that summer will come again." Why should one be encased in Spanx-like rules concerning 1/16th of an inch about lapel widths, rounded toe only shoes, collar spreads, lapel's designs, tie widths, pant's hem length, amount of cuff to reveal, pleated pants or not, and a narrow range of colors restricted to between beige and grey?

Is it ever okay to wear bluchers rather balmorals with a suit?

Say what.

Isn't proper fit the one and only important element to being well dressed?

I've found that fabric and style come before fit.

Aren't Allen Edmonds/Alden shoes the best style and quality ready to wear shoes?

I don't know but I'll ask grandpa when I see him.

Why would any gentleman ever not button the buttons on a button-down shirt, wear French-cuffs without a suit or tie, leave one or more buttons of working button jacket unbuttoned, jeans with a blazer, loafers with a suit, baseball cap with a suit, hoodie with a suit, etc.?

sprezzatura

Luciano Barbera said: "A man must face the world with sprezzatura. It literally means detachment, but a better way to think of it is quiet confidence or low-key style. The most forceful statement is understatement. It is the philosophy behind everything I do."

What the difference between overcoats and topcoats, blazers and sport-coats, tuxedos and dinner jackets, jumpers and sweaters, shadgreen and stingray, alligator and crocodile, etc.

Beats me.

Can't a gentleman find every clothing item he would ever need at Jo. A. Banks?

Of course.

Gosh darn golly, aren't you bored with clothing already?

Nope.

What does one do if a 34R is too long and a 34S is too short? A 7A is too wide but can't find a 7AAA?

Get it custom made--bespoke, made-to-measure, etc.

Are shoe trees really important?

Always.

Should one get a pair of wore shoes re-crafted?

Replace the heel and put a thin rubber sole on and then buy a new pair of shoes, unless you are the Prince of Wales and then you have a big old patch of leather glued to the side of your shoe as true gentlemen do. Nevertheless, those old worn shoes of the Prince have so much character and texture that if he ever wants to give them away I'll wear them.

For instance, if one skin tone is Summer can one wear Fall colors, or then what colors should one avoid that aren't flattering to their skin tone?

Say what.

You seem rather ugly, so why even care about what clothes you wear, after all nobody else does. You'll never be a bella figura.

Which is the best suit, shoe, tie, shirt, pocket-square, socks, overcoat, etc.?

The one you desire the most. Metaphysical certainty when it come to clothing is always a poor fit.

Isn't arguing and debating about clothes great fun and entrainment.

It is said that conflict and empathy make great fiction.

Don't people who know you think your interest in clothing is weird if not downright unhealthy (and unAmerican)?

Yes.

Aren't you concerned that given the way you dress that the other children at the playground will make fun of you and ostracize you and won't want to play with you.

Different strokes for different folks.

Isn't it part of the internet culture and convention to vigorously enjoy flame wars? Who doesn't get pleasure in ripping into another? Shouldn't you reply when you are denounced as excitable, malicious, malignant, vengeful, unforgiving, selfish, stingy, avaricious, coarse, vulgar, profane, obscene, furious blusterer, socialist, Nazi, liar, and at heart a coward? Aren't spit-flecked rants better than objectivity and dignity? It seems that one's order of barbecue must come with a side-dish of maggots. Isn't it good to unleash one's fury on these poor souls, rip out their entrails with one's bare hands, and feed them to wild boors?

Let's hope that the Jaws of Life can get your knickers out of their wad.

King James BibleBut I say unto you, That ye resist not evil: but whosoever shall smite thee on thy right cheek, turn to him the other also.

American King James VersionBut I say to you, That you resist not evil: but whoever shall smite you on your right cheek, turn to him the other also.

American Standard Versionbut I say unto you, resist not him that is evil: but whosoever smiteth thee on thy right cheek, turn to him the other also.

Bible in Basic EnglishBut I say to you, Do not make use of force against an evil man; but to him who gives you a blow on the right side of your face let the left be turned.

Douay-Rheims BibleBut I say to you not to resist evil: but if one strike thee on thy right cheek, turn to him also the other:

Darby Bible TranslationBut I say unto you, not to resist evil; but whoever shall strike thee on thy right cheek, turn to him also the other;

English Revised Versionbut I say unto you, Resist not him that is evil: but whosoever smiteth thee on thy right cheek, turn to him the other also.

Webster's Bible TranslationBut I say to you, That ye resist not evil: but whoever shall strike thee on thy right cheek, turn to him the other also.

Weymouth New TestamentBut I tell you not to resist a wicked man, but if any one strikes you on the right cheek, turn the other to him as well.

World English BibleBut I tell you, don't resist him who is evil; but whoever strikes you on your right cheek, turn to him the other also.

Young's Literal Translationbut I -- I say to you, not to resist the evil, but whoever shall slap thee on thy right cheek, turn to him also the other;

While bitch Tereza Kerndlova stole what-it's-name song,the point is:

Careless Whisper

Time can never mend the careless whispers of a good friendTo the heart and mind, ignorance is kindthere's no comfort in the truthpain is all you'll findShould've known betterI feel so unsureas I take your hand and lead you to the dance flooras the music dies, something in your eyescalls to mind the silver screenand all its sad good-byesI'm never gonna dance againguilty feet have got no rhythmthough it's easy to pretendI know your not a foolShould've known better than to cheat a friendand waste the chance that I've been givenso I'm never gonna dance againthe way I danced with youTime can never mendthe careless whispers of a good friendto the heart and mindignorance is kindthere's no comfort in the truthpain is all you'll findI'm never gonna dance againguilty feet have got no rhythmthough it's easy to pretendI know your not a foolShould've known better than to cheat a friendand waste this chance that I've been givenso I'm never gonna dance againthe way I danced with youNever without your loveTonight the music seems so loudI wish that we could lose this crowdMaybe it's better this wayWe'd hurt each other with the things we'd want to sayWe could have been so good togetherWe could have lived this dance foreverBut noone's gonna dance with mePlease stayAnd I'm never gonna dance againguilty feet have got no rhythmthough it's easy to pretendI know your not a foolShould've known better than to cheat a friendand waste the chance that I've been givenso I'm never gonna dance againthe way I danced with you(Now that you're gone) Now that you're gone(Now that you're gone) What I did's so wrongthat you had to leave me alone

I feel so unsureAs I take your handAnd lead you to the dance floor.As the music diesSomething in your eyesCalls to mind a silver screenAnd all it's sad goodbyes.CHORUS:I'm never gonna dance again,Guilty feet have got no rhythm.Though it's easy to pretend,I know you're not a fool.I should have known better than to cheat a friend,And waste the chance that I'd been given.So I'm never gonna dance again,The way I've danced with you.Time can never mend,The careless whispers of a good friend.To the heart and mind, ignorance is kindThere's no comfort in the truth,Pain is all you('ll) find.

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

If you think you'll ever might want sell it, then a Patek or a Rolex is the way to go. Otherwise, get what you really want and wear it with pleasure.

Does cost-benefit analysis apply to fine clothing?

Not exactly. A $6k suit or shoes will generally not outlast a $200 suit or shoes.

Isn't true style a result of careful editing to achieve a relatively modest wardrobe and is often a minimalistic effort? Aren't round toed gunboat shoes and scratchy charcoal wool clothe all any gentlemen needs? "Minimalism was huge. It's a very pure idea to dressing. The lines are more studied and nuanced almost like a ballet dancer giving a great performance. It may look easy, but it's actually brilliant. It is about what you don't notice." (Jeffrey Kalinsky)

Sounds boring artificial vanilla to me.

Why would any sane person pay good money for glue-job eye-talian shoes?

How many pairs of shoes, suits, shirts, belts, etc does one need for proper rotation.

The more you have the longer your items will last.

What do you like most about Oxxford? The handwork.

Kiton? The fabrics, the handwork, the style. Widely despised by the official cognoscenti of grandpa clothing.

Brioni? The style, the fabrics.

Brunello Cucinelli? The style, the workmanship, the fabrics.

Loro Piana? The fabrics.

John Lobb? The leather, the style.

Zegna? The fabrics.

Prada? Style.

Dolce & Gabbana? Style.

Isn't the internet a good place for rants, raves, overblown complaints and criticism?

Complaint is poverty.

And while the bitch Inara Maryland George stole the song, she says it bestest:

I Can't Go For That

The Bird And The Bee

(originally by Hall & Oates)

Easy ready willing overtimeWhen does it stop, where do you dare me to draw the line?You got the body now you want my soulDon't even think about it say no go

Yeah I, I'll do anything that you want me toYeah I'll do almost anything that you want me toYeah, but I can't go for thatNo, (no) no can doI can't go for thatNo, (no) no can doI can't go for thatNo, (no) no can doI can't go for thatCan't go for thatCan't go for thatCan't go for that

I can go for being twice as niceI can go for just repeating the some old linesUse the body now you want my soulOoh forget about it, now say no go

Yeah I, I'll do anything that you want me toYeah I'll do almost anything that you want me toYeah, but I can't go for thatNo, (no) no can doI can't go for thatNo, (no) no can doI can't go for thatNo, (no) no can doI can't go for thatCan't go for thatCan't go for thatCan't go for that, yeah

Yeah I, I'll do anything that you want me toYeah I'll do almost anything that you want me toYeah, but I can't go for thatNo, (no) no can doI can't go for thatNo, (no) no can doI can't go for thatNo, (no) no can doI can't go for thatCan't go for thatCan't go for thatCan't go for that, yeah

Apparently, you just don't get the true importance of bespoke, and the fact it's light-years better than read-to-wear.

Apparently I don't.

Should an overcoat's hem come to one's mid-thigh, knee, mid-calf, or ankle length?

Yes, yes, yes, yes.

What is your background?

I have an AB in philosophy, MA and PhD in political science from a major state university. I'm currently a professor on sabbaticalfrom a major state university where most of my duties have been empirical research and teaching research methods. My wife, two Maine coon boy cats, bloodhound girl dog, and I live across the street from one of the top ten private research universities in the country.

I'll have to leave those judgments to my betters in that I couldn't know having no empirical base experiences to make such judgments.

How exactly does one determine for a suit what is the best gorge height, waist suppression, drape, armhole height, wool fabric weight, jacket length, hem break, pant pleats, leg width, number of jacket buttons, etc.

One develops a personal style over time by multiple trials, or one can adopt a mentor's style whole-cloth, or some combination of the both.

Can one be a gentleman and wear shoes and boots made of alligator, crocodile, ostrich, lizard, eel, stingray, elephant, anteater, shark, hippopotamus, etc.?

Yes. But please note that some observers may experience difficulty maintaining decorum in the presence of such footwear. The care and maintenance of these delicate gentlemen. nevertheless, is handled by:

Criminal

FionaApple

I've been a bad, bad girlI've been careless with a delicate manAnd it's a sad, sad worldWhen a girl will break a boyJust because she can

Don't you tell me to deny itI've done wrong and I wanna suffer for my sinsI've come to you cause I need guidance to be trueAnd I just don't know where I can begin

What I need is a good defenseCause I'm feelin' like a criminalAnd I need to be redeemedTo the one I've sinned againstBecause he's all I ever knew of love

Heaven help me for the way I amSave me from these evil deeds before I get them doneI know tomorrow brings the consequence at handBut I keep livin' this dayLike the next will never come

Oh help me, but don't tell me to deny itI've got to cleanse myselfOf all these lies til I'm good enough for himI've got a lot to loseAnd I'm bettin' high so I'm beggin' youBefore it endsJust tell me where I begin

What I need is a good defenseCause I'm feelin' like a criminalAnd I need to be redeemedTo the one I've sinned againstBecause he's all I ever knew of love

Let me know the wayBefore there's hell to payGive me room to lay the law and let me goI've got to make a playTo make my lover staySo what would an angel sayThe devil wants to know

What I need is a good defenseCause I'm feelin' like a criminalAnd I need to be redeemedTo the one I've sinned againstBecause he's all I ever knew of love

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Do you own and do you wear black suits during daytime? Aren't they ugly, cheap looking, unflattering, low-class, and common looking--not to say tacky too?

Yes. There is a conservative--old school--business view of things that can't get over the black suit phenomena. Black suits are in the stores, people buy them, and they do actually wear them in daytime. The world of men's clothing is a dynamic marketplace and styles change, including black suits becoming more popular. Why is the big deal? Historically, this is not the first time business men have donned black during daytime. Perhaps, Joan Jett can explain it better:

Joan Jett and The BlackheartsBlack Leather (Live)

(Steve Jones)Ooh,Well, he's all geared up, walkin' down the streetI can see the slime, drippin' down his sleeveWell, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna doWell, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna doOoh,Well, it's late at night, and I'm all aloneI can hear the boots gettin' near her homeWell, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna doWell, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna doScratch, scratch, he's clawing at the doorWhoa, no, I can't take it anymoreCrack, crack I'm feeling so sore,I never should have asked for black leatherBlack leather, black leather, black leatherYou can try to hide, you know you won't get farYou let him in, and you'll start againWell, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna doWell, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna doScratch, scratch, she's clawing at the doorWhoa, no, I can't take it anymoreCrack, crack I'm feeling so sore,I never should asked for black leatherBlack leather, black leather, black leather

(Joan JettReggie GriffinEddie MorrisWilliam Adler)I will not take off my clothesI will not be rudeFor what I have doneIs come to rock youLate at night while the normals restI feel wicked when I start to dressMy clothes, they stare at me like theyWanna make love to my bodyI'm not a dream but I'm supreme and if yaListen to the sky you see what I meanWhen it rains outside, people run and hideI walk the streets and start to pryAnd wonder was I here before?In another life? Yes! I'm sure but whatAs I suppose why do I get power from these clothesBlack leather, I wear it on stageBlack leather, I'm gonna wear it to my graveBlack leather, I will wear it anywhereBecause my name is JOAN JETT and I don't careJust the feel of it on my flesh makes meFeel wild feel possessedBut I'm not don't get me wrongI'm the baddest slick chick just singin'This songLilly white dresses sure they're cuteThey also attract a lot of men to youBut they make you feel real vulnerableFrom anything that got muscleBut ya cannot take what I would not giveCuz that's the truth that's how I liveListen don't slick talk me to make me indulgeCuz I am JOAN and I am luv!I have this friend in a waterbedHe's real wild when he's soak'n'wetYo JOAN let's hang till the early dawnSCORP chill till I put my leather onBlack leather, I wear it on stageBlack leather, I'm gonna wear it to my graveBlack leather, I will wear it anywhereBecause my name is JOAN JETT and I don't careJust the feel of it on my flesh make meFeel wild

Some girls give me moneySome girls buy me clothesSome girls give me jewelryThat I never thought I'd ownSome girls give me diamondsSome girls, heart attacksSome girls I give all my bread toI don't ever want it backSome girls give me jewelryOthers buy me clothesSome girls give me childrenI never asked them forSo give me all your moneyGive me all your goldI'll buy you a house back in Zuma beachAnd give you half of what I ownSome girls take my moneySome girls take my clothesSome girls get the shirt off my backAnd leave me with a lethal doseFrench girls they want CartierItalian girls want carsAmerican girls want everything in the worldYou can possibly imagineEnglish girls they're so prissyI can't stand them on the telephoneSometimes I take the receiver off the hookI don't want them to ever call at allWhite girls they're pretty funnySometimes they drive me madBlack girls just wanna get fucked all nightI just don't have that much jamChinese girls are so gentleThey're really such a teaseYou never know quite what they're cookin'Inside those silky sleevesGive me all you moneyGive me all your goldI'll buy you a house back in Zuma beachAnd give you half of what I ownSome girls they're so pureSome girls so corruptSome girls give me childrenI only made love to her onceGive me half your moneyGive me half your carGive me half of everythingI'll make you world's biggest starSo gimme all.

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Wouldn't understanding the nuances of clothing increase your enjoyment of true style. How can you ignore nuance once it's been revealed.

The "narcissism of small differences" comes by way of Sigmund Freud and Ernest Crawley, describing how negative feelings may be put on those who otherwise resemble a group but the group take great pride from the "small differences" that distinguish their group from undesirable others. The most baffling aspect of these clothing conversations on the internet has been over debates concerning personal style. This is somewhat curious because those in the debate do not seem especially adept at style. The debaters seem to most want that their style should mostly gone unnoticed--and this is a good thing in a Martha Stewart way. It must be undistracting--tongues may not wag. Clothes will undoubtedly be stylish, but it must be unremarkable to all except the informed cognoscenti--this is a prime requirement. They wish to be perceived as proper, intelligent, and pleasant to all. Those who are unlike them are dismissed as beneath the bridezillas or Paris Hiltons. Their clothing culture rewards decorum most of all.

I find the nuance of fabric and leather to be my chief enjoyment of clothing--fine cashmere and leather are without equal. The nuances of style also are most rewarding--this is where, say, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana with careful editing bring great aesthetic pleasures. The nuances of fit are just over my head--it just seems neurotic that 1/34 of inch (or whatever) in button placement makes a difference; I just don't get it.

What's the best book about clothing styles?

The Essence of Style: How the French Invented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Cafes, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour by Joan DeJean (2005).

What is your favorite clothing store?

By far it's Anthropologie. While I've not bought any there (though I might consider the books and furniture), it has by far the most attractive women customers and sales ladies of any store I visit with my wife.

Don't you agree with PETA that it's morally and ethically wrong to wear coats that are lined with the fleece of lambs, sheep, goats, rabbits, opossum, ermine, beaver, etc?

Fleece is leather--a renewable resource that provides what are often premium paying jobs. Shearling is both rugged and pleasurable. Of course, all animals must be bred and treated humanely. For those who are emotional and passionate on this issue, there are no rational or logical points that will move them.

What do you think of the Thom Browne cropped pant look?

If you foresee a flood, then by all means wear flood pants; dig clams in clam diggers; walk on the beach on the Isle of Capri in Capri pants; ride a bike in pedal-pushers; load bananas on a Caribbean island in calypso pants; drive cattle in the Pampas in Gaucho pants; if you golf with Bobby Jones (though currently residing at the Oakland Cemetery in Atlanta) wear knickerbockers, though plus twos, fours, sixes or eights may be substituted; knee pants are appropriate if Johnny Mercer writes a song about you; do construction work in Japan in tobi trousers; rafting the Mississippi River with Huckleberry Finn; otherwise, cover you ankles up--no manner how fetching they might be.

Where is the best place to find fine quality clothing?

It has been my experience that brick-and-mortar stores that are in most large cities often have the best combination of service and price. There's no substitute for being able to feel and try-on a garment before buying. It's been years since I've been able to find any deals on the internet.

What is the best men's underwear?

Hanro and Zimmerli.

How do you response to this comment by bespoke tailor Mr. Despos: "Custom/bespoke clothing is about choices of cloth and styling but there is so much more to it than meets the eye. People hark on and on about having an individual pattern made but what makes it worthwhile is the customization of "fit". Regardless of how much you are "up to date on proper fit", you have to conform to a RTW garment, it cannot conform to you. Custom tailoring comes down to accessing a mans shape, his irregularities, his personality and making something that is not only functional but aesthetically pleasing to the eye. There is so much manipulation of the pattern and cloth done in the fitting process and these efforts are unique to each individual client. There is no single approach to making a suit as there are too many factors to consider. At the minimum most all men will have one shoulder lower than the other or one hip higher than the other. Prominent shoulder blades, full chests, round backs, forward pitched shoulders, boney shoulders, sloping shoulders, square shoulders, big bellies, stooped or erect postures, etc. etc.. The possibilities and combinations go on and on. It takes years of experience to understand what to do, where to do it and how much to do, to compensate for a man's asymmetrical physique. It takes more years to know how to sew a garment that is visually appealing and yet has a kinetic nature. The end result to the client is personal satisfaction in an intangible sort of way."

May the Lord God Jehovah bless him.

Can a gentleman wear leather blazers and leather overcoats only if he is empowered to say: "Your papers are not in order"?

Clothing does not have rules like tennis but has principles based on aesthetics. We're talking art, not science much less metaphysical certainty.

Are milk products always bad for people?

Many thousand of clinical scientific research studies have shown milk to often be good to consume or have a neutral impact despite conventional wisdom to the contrary.

What's the best raincoat?

Whatever style one prefers, Loro Piana Storm System is the best fabric. It's one of the few products that lives up to its hype. It comes in cashmere, camel-hair, wool, cotton, etc. It's truly rain and wind proof.

Your chilling stoic shtick concerning clothing seems out of place compared to the hot, passionate ranting and raving of many internet critics who despise their way to fame and fortune.

OK.My PrerogativeBritney Spears

People can take everything away from youBut they can never take away your truthBut the question is..Can you handle mine?

They say I'm crazyI really don't careThat's my prerogativeThey say I'm nastyBut I don't give a damnGetting boys is how I liveSome ask me questionsWhy am I so real?But they don't understand meI really don't know the deal about my sisterTrying hard to make it rightNot long agoBefore I won this fight

Don't you see the almost zen like qualities of the perfectly fitting clothing items that blend harmoniously, combing subtle colors and textures. That attention to detail and nuance are what is of the highest importance. Isn't sprezzatura just an excuse for sloppy fit, construction, boorishness and laziness?

No.

Do you have any thoughts on groupthink concerning clothing?

Groupthink is "mean-girls" with a strongly cohesive in-group of members trying to minimize conflict and maintain consensus but not seriously testing, analyzing or evaluating clothing choices or rules. Groupthinkers seek to prevented clothing choices that contradict their own clothing expression. They are deeply involved in cohesive in-group norms with a desire for unanimity overriding realistic appraisals of alternative clothing choices. This involves using the cliquishness and exclusion usually found in fifth-grade sleepover parties or frat houses. What is offered as entertainment is actually about being rude, crude, nasty, mean, and crass. Individual choice, creativity, flair, uniqueness, eccentricity and independent clothing actions are forsaken for cohesiveness, lacking rational balance in clothing choice and appearance. With groupthink they avoid allowing viewpoints outside the comfort zone of uniform thinking. Groupthinkers want to avoid being thought of as foolish, or to avoid embarrassing or angering the group. Groupthink causes members to make hasty, irrational decisions to avoid offending the "mean-girls", meaning that individual doubts are set aside, for fear of upsetting the group’s balance. The impulse for group-thinking is not a rational thing. People are generally hardwired to bond closely to their own group and to be suspicious of nonconforming others. When someone else belongs to their group, they like that person better also. However, certain features that show group membership can be manipulated by haters, resulting in fear of people who don't have those group features. This is home to much mischief. Maybe Frank Sinatra explained it best:

The Lady Is A Tramp

She gets too hungry, for dinner at eightShe likes the theatre, and never comes lateShe never bothers, with people she'd hateThat's why the lady is a tramp

Doesn't like crap games, with barons or earlsWon't go to Harlem, in ermine and pearlsWon't dish the dirt, with the rest of the girlsThat's why the lady is a tramp

She likes the free, fresh wind in her hairLife without careShe's broke, and it's oakHates California, it's cold and it's dampThat's why the lady is a tramp

She gets too hungry, to wait for dinner at eightShe loves the theatre, but never comes lateShe'd never bother, with people She'd hateThats why the Lady is a Tramp

She'll have no crap games, with Sharpie's and Fraud'sAnd she won't go to Harlem, in Lincoln's or Ford'sAnd she won't dish the dirt, with the rest of the broadsThat's why the Lady is a Tramp

She loves the free, fresh, wind in her hairLife without careShe's broke, but it's oakHates California, it's so cold, and so dampThat's why the Lady, That's why the LadyThat's why the Lady is a Tramp.

Why do you think there is so much player hate on the internet, and how best to respond to this hate?

Player hate seems to be a totally encompassing affront on the clothing style of the individual to whom it's aimed at, and it's broader in scope though more specific than the simple term hate. On a daily basis, haters bemoan, gripe, detest and feign outrage over nothing of import. They're self-appointed provocateurs interested in keeping their internet profile high and others to be in a lather for the haters own pleasure.

Overcoats are among my favor garments. For wet weather one needs Loro Piana Storm System overcoats. Different lengths hems are desirable also. Of course one must have various colors including navy, charcoal, grey, camel, brown, etc. Differing fabrics are also required, including: cashmere, camelhair, guanaco, vicuña, merino, escorial, etc. Also, there are many styles of overcoats to consider.

What is the most expensive clothing item you ever bought, and the best bargain?

Prices are relative so I've not yet likely to have purchased my most expensive item or found my best bargain.... I keep an eye out for new and different items, and when incentives are available I acquire new pieces. Fine clothing can be hard to locate so it's best to act when it's available at the right price, because in my experience it's not likely to be there the next time.

Are there any good clothing sales associates you can recommend?

I've encountered many good sales people. The best help I get is when they alert me to new items or to sales or promotions. Nevertheless, I prefer to do my own shopping in my own way at my own time and pace, thank you just the same.

Come on, surely you have opinions about blue jeans? Which are the best jeans?

Well, they're not a terribly interesting topic. If you like them, wear them, otherwise don't. Next topic. Nevertheless, I enjoy wearing them. You can get a great jeans from Costco for less than a small steak (and tap water) at Longhorns. For the cost of sixty plus pairs of Costco jeans will get one a pair of Kiton jeans, for instance. I've have found them both to be great jeans. I usually give my dad two pairs of unwashed--hard--Levi jeans for his birthday which often necessitated going to the horse supply store to find his odd size. Recently, he wanted to update my ignorance to know that Levi's makes jeans that are soften and prewashed, and he would much prefer those jeans.

Don't you think that for a gentleman to have true style that it is hard, takes time and taste, and quality clothing is part of style but not the most important component? Style requires that clothes must fit--many trips to the alterations tailor for precision. Pressed clothes, shined shoes daily, and personal grooming are mandatory. Understatement is a must.

OK, but you may windup looking like your mother dressed you.

Can one have too much cashmere?

Too much cashmere is not enough cashmere. My only regret is that there are not enough winter days to wear all my cashmere garments. So how does fine cashmere feel and wear? It is always difficult to be objective when faced with such iconic fabrics like cashmere, camelhair, guanaco, vicuña, merino, escorial, without actually wearing them; with wearing it becomes easier to understand their complexity. After wearing, the adjectives used to describe their feel range from satin and silk to smooth and velvety just to list a few. But they are just so special. To describe these fabrics simply in terms of feel is to miss a point. Avoiding descending into the incomprehensible, when I wear cashmere and other fine wools, these wools evoke a similar intellectual stimulation to listening to great music or viewing a beautiful work of rare art. These fine wools can be described in terms of character, as opposed to just feel. Some may find cashmere as too masculine and arrogant, or too soft and feminine, or too precious and rare, etc. Just relax and enjoy them.

Should a gentleman get a long lasting wool overcoat or a delicate cashmere overcoat?

The fact is that quality cashmere is quiet long lasting. I have a dozen vintage cashmere (and vicuña) overcoats that are over 60 years old and show almost no wear. The only wear problems I have noted is that lining are likely to give out long before wear shows up in quality cashmere fabric.

Isn't this blog just a mix of exhibitionism and voyeurism? It's far too long, and overbearing for the weighted down woolen tone of pseudo modesty that clothes the egomania at the center of the blog. Isn't your morbid obsession with clothing just a manifestation of hobbyism, rather a true style? You're are hyper-defensive, overly evasive and stiff as a preacher's Johnson at a wedding.

Yep.

Don't you agree music from analog recordings and played on tube equipment just sound better than similar quality digital ones.

I was trained to repair and build highest quality tube equipment ever built--wire-to-wire equipment, pre-circuit-board. I thought it far inferior to digital, solid state equipment. The low power, the high heat, the bulk and weight of the transformers, the short life of the tubes and capacitors, the high level of internal noise and static, all made the equipment rather sad--so much effort and expense for so little. The first solid state equipment I got to work on still leaves me with a sense of awe. Just about all the compromises of tube equipment were gone with almost no downsides. A 200 pound, 50 tube receiver would be far inferior to one the size of a cellphone today. Poor quality music recording and equipment--whether analog of digital--is just poor quality. I first thought about doing tube equipment repair as a way to work through college--but I became a computer programmer and built solid state equipment on the side. The same logic holds for high quality music recording: digital is far superior to analog.

Gee, man, why do you get so much of your crappy overprice Eurotrash garbage brands from Needless Markup?

It has been my experience that with its sales, promotions, coupons, etc. that I can get items at prices better than internet sources such as eBay. For instance, the same items that I get at NM show up on eBay offered at prices that imply the sellers got them at about the same price I paid so that their profit markup makes their items much more than I have had to pay. I've yet to find any bargains on new or used clothing items at eBay or other internet sources that beat the brick-and-mortar stores I regularly shop.

Where are the miracles promised by the sequencing of the human genome and how much longer must one wait?

Only when there are a number of good theories of how genes and environments interact are offered and tested. As of now, the theories just aren't there--sorry for the bad news.

Why do some followers of Islam want to harm Americans and other Westerners?

When the various Islam groups are able to have peaceful compromises with fellow followers of Islam, and stop violence on other Islam groups, they will realize that they don't have now and never had a fight with the West. Attaching the West is just a tactic to divert attention from the intra-groups conflict among some Islam groups. Middle class followers of Islam have had poor success in moderating the conflicts among the modernize, Western educated and oriented privileged governing elites, and the oppressed, struggling underclass demagogues, contributing in a large part to the rise of fundamentalist violence both within and external to the Islamic countries. Those of us in the West will just continue to have to avoid collateral damage as best we can. Again, sorry to say but compromises and compassion among some followers of Islam toward other followers of Islam seems far off in the future.

Shouldn't you take the shopping diet: something like this--pick only six items of clothing, then proceed to wear them and only them for a month? Wouldn't the zen minimalism be cleansing and purifying?

Uh? This has the aura of a irrational passion for dispassionate rationality in style. A playful non-deliberateness and sense of openness and wide-angle view of clothing leads to an expansive pleasure of forming and enhancing one's style. The concept of found object of clothing embraces the imagination of the wearer. The mystery of a surprise garment find can be about it's origins, the feeling that it's a chance occurrence, and the sense of newness or wonder surrounding the garment as found object. A found object may stand by itself or may start a collection. It's okay to deliberately seek out such unexpected clothing, or to allow a random by-chance process of discovering of clothing found objects as a way to enhance one's style.

Don't you agree that the official United State Navy peacoat is the one and only appropriate peacoat to wear?

A number of designers have done their own tweaking of the peacoat which I have found to be most stylish. After all, the Navy got their official design from previous designs, and they could have gone with British Navy's duffel coat design. The official peacoat (per the U.S. government contract label in it) I have is too itchy scratchy and not as warm as cashmere and shearling peacoat designs I also have.

"Dost thou think, because thou art virtuous, there shall be no more cakes and ale?" (Twelfth Night)

It's okay for clothing to enhance one's own experience, appreciate life, and have a reasonably good time (though I'm skipping the ale). So attack clothing choices, take cheap shots at brands, shoot fish in a shoe barrel, vaunt superior complexes of bespoke, tragic senses of the heavy wool life, and vacant psychobabble about fit as one's esteem needs be. Let's not wind-up like Kelly Willis:

What did you thinkBruce RobisonWhat did you think that I've been waiting forAll nightTo hear you cry again about her on my shoulderAnd what did you think I could say to youThat you ain't heardWondering what in the world do I know about love

And what did you think that you've been waiting forYou've hadLong enough of throwin' good love after badAnd what in the world is all this talkin' forNobody'sEvery changed nobody's mind about what's rightIn front of them

When the cause of all your pain is spokenOne more breakin' heart is broken down

And what did you think the night is really forExcept for sleepin'Or else that empty feelin' creepin' that they don'tReally care at all

When the cause of all your pain is hopin'One more breakin' heart is broken down

What did you think I've been waiting forAll nightTo hear you cry again about her on my shoulderAnd what did you think that I could say to youThat you ain't heardI'm wondering what in the world do I know about love, about love

Do I know about love, about love.

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Why are there so few reader comments on your blog? Are you afraid of criticism?

No ranting, raving, jumping, jiving, or wailing comments, thank you.

Aren't rules about proper clothing choices fundamental to good style? The wisdom of the masters of the intricacies of clothing about correct fit, color, texture, length, nuance, context, etc. are a must after all.

Sara Bareilles - King of Anything Keep drinking coffee, stare me down across the tableWhile I look outsideSo many things I’d say if only I were ableBut I just keep quiet and count the cars that pass by

You’ve got opinions, manWe’re all entitled to ‘em, but I never askedSo let me thank you for your time, and try not to waste anymore of mineAnd get out of here fast

I hate to break it to you babe, but I’m not drowningThere’s no one here to save

Who cares if you disagree?You are not meWho made you king of anything?So you dare tell me who to be?Who died and made you king of anything?

You sound so innocent, all full of good intentSwear you know bestBut you expect me to jump up on board with youAnd ride off into your delusional sunset

I’m not the one who’s lost with no directionBut you’ll never seeYou’re so busy making maps with my name on them in all capsYou got the talking down, just not the listening

And who cares if you disagree?You are not meWho made you king of anything?So you dare tell me who to be?Who died and made you king of anything?

All my life I’ve tried to make everybody happyWhile I just hurt and hideWaiting for someone to tell me it’s my turn to decide

Who cares if you disagree?You are not meWho made you king of anything?So you dare tell me who to be?Who died and made you king of anything?

Who cares if you disagree?You are not meWho made you king of anything?So you dare tell me who to be?Who died and made you king of anything?

King James BibleAnd he said unto them, Ye will surely say unto me this proverb, Physician, heal thyself: whatsoever we have heard done in Capernaum, do also here in thy country.

American King James VersionAnd he said to them, You will surely say to me this proverb, Physician, heal yourself: whatever we have heard done in Capernaum, do also here in your country.

American Standard VersionAnd he said unto them, Doubtless ye will say unto me this parable, Physician, heal thyself: whatsoever we have heard done at Capernaum, do also here in thine own country.

Bible in Basic EnglishAnd he said to them, Without doubt you will say to me, Let the medical man make himself well: the things which to our knowledge were done at Capernaum, do them here in your country.

Douay-Rheims BibleAnd he said to them: Doubtless you will say to me this similitude: Physician, heal thyself: as great things as we have heard done in Capharnaum, do also here in thy own country.

Darby Bible TranslationAnd he said to them, Ye will surely say to me this parable, Physician, heal thyself; whatsoever we have heard has taken place in Capernaum do here also in thine own country.

English Revised VersionAnd he said unto them, Doubtless ye will say unto me this parable, Physician, heal thyself: whatsoever we have heard done at Capernaum, do also here in thine own country.

Webster's Bible TranslationAnd he said to them, Ye will surely say to me this proverb, Physician, heal thyself: whatever we have heard done in Capernaum, do also here in thy country.

Weymouth New Testament"Doubtless," said He, "you will quote to me the proverb, 'Physician, cure yourself: all that we hear that you have done at Capernaum, do here also in your native place.'"

World English BibleHe said to them, "Doubtless you will tell me this parable, 'Physician, heal yourself! Whatever we have heard done at Capernaum, do also here in your hometown.'"

Young's Literal TranslationAnd he said unto them, 'Certainly ye will say to me this simile, Physician, heal thyself; as great things as we heard done in Capernaum, do also here in thy country;'

Where is your review of the clothes in "Wall Street" and its sequel films?

I haven't seen either film and I'm not inclined to see them. However, I have enjoyed reading about the wardrobes. It has been claimed that what the "Sex and the City" show was for women's style, "Wall Street" film was for menswear style. Rather than the films following some existing version of Conservative Business Dress, trad/preppy, urban, or the like, the film's designer Ellen Mirojnick developed a style statement that was bold, individual, distinct, character driven, and fresh. The styles were not to fit in with one's peers' clothing, stereotypical of banker or broker, but rather to present powerful signals by the accents and details such as fabric, color, cut, pattern, shirt collars, shoes, watches and accessories through fine quality. Style, for lack of a better word, is good. Style is right. Style works. Style clarifies, cuts through, and captures, the essence of the aesthetic spirit.

Isn't this whole blog just a pathetic, embarrassing joke, or are you just insane?

According to The New York Times the photo book "Take Ivy" is “a treasure of fashion insiders,” so you must have a copy and view it with approval. Right?

I was underwhelmed with the book when I viewed it briefly. While I visited most of the Ivy colleges during that era I don't remember anything about clothing except the "no socks" look which for some reason I never really took to then or now (apologies to Thom Browne and Sid Mashburn). I can't actually remember the young Ivy gentlemen looking any different than those at other large private and state universities. Though the girls riding bicycles around the Ivies (even though they didn't then allow girls as students), I did notice. Steely Dan expounds on the topic:

Steely DanHey Nineteen

Way back when in Sixty sevenI was the dandy of Gamm ChiSweet things from Boston so young and willingMoved down to Scarsdale where the hell am IHey NineteenNo we can't dance togetherNo we can't talk at allPlease take me along when you slide on downHey Nineteen that's 'Retha FranklinShe don't remember the Queen of SoulIt's hard times befallen the sole survivorsShe thinks I'm crazy I'm just growing oldHey NineteenNo we got nothin' in commonNo we can't talk at allPlease take me along when you slide on down

The Cuervo GoldThe fine ColumbianMake tonight a wonderful thingThe Cuervo GoldThe fine ColumbianMake tonight a wonderful thingWe can't dance togetherNo we can't talk at allSteely DanWay back whenIn Sixty-sevenI was the dandyOf Gamma ChiSweet things from BostonSo young and willingMoved down to ScarsdaleWhere the hell am IHey NineteenNo we can't dance togetherNo we can't talk at allPlease take me alongWhen you slide on down

King James BibleAnd the King shall answer and say unto them, Verily I say unto you, Inasmuch as ye have done [it] unto one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done [it] unto me.

American King James VersionAnd the King shall answer and say to them, Truly I say to you, Inasmuch as you have done it to one of the least of these my brothers, you have done it to me.

American Standard VersionAnd the King shall answer and say unto them, Verily I say unto you, Inasmuch as ye did it unto one of these my brethren, even these least, ye did it unto me.

Bible in Basic EnglishAnd the King will make answer and say to them, Truly I say to you, Because you did it to the least of these my brothers, you did it to me.

Douay-Rheims BibleAnd the king answering, shall say to them: Amen I say to you, as long as you did it to one of these my least brethren, you did it to me.

Darby Bible TranslationAnd the King answering shall say to them, Verily, I say to you, Inasmuch as ye have done it to one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it to me.

English Revised VersionAnd the King shall answer and say unto them, Verily I say unto you, Inasmuch as ye did it unto one of these my brethren, even these least, ye did it unto me.

Webster's Bible TranslationAnd the king will answer and say to them, Verily I say to you, Inasmuch as ye have done it to one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it to me.

Weymouth New Testament"But the King will answer them, "'In solemn truth I tell you that in so far as you rendered such services to one of the humblest of these my brethren, you rendered them to myself.'

World English Bible"The King will answer them, 'Most certainly I tell you, inasmuch as you did it to one of the least of these my brothers, you did it to me.'

Young's Literal TranslationAnd the king answering, shall say to them, Verily I say to you, Inasmuch as ye did it to one of these my brethren -- the least -- to me ye did it.

If you could, which leading man would you aspire to: Cary Grant in "North by Northwest," Steve McQueen in "The Thomas Crown Affair," Paul Newman in "Cool Hand Luke," or Fred Astaire in "Funny Face"?

Candyman Songwriters: Aguilera, Christina; Perry, Linda;

Tarzan and Jane were swingin' on a vineCandyman, candymanSippin' from a bottle of vodka double wineSweet sugar candyman

I met him out for dinner on a Friday nightHe really got me working up an appetiteHe had tattoos up and down his armThere's nothing more dangerous than a boy with charm

Well, by now I'm getting all bothered and hotWhen he kissed my mouth it really hit the spotHe had lips like sugarcaneGood things come for boys who wait

Tarzan and Jane were swingin' on a vineCandyman, candymanSippin' from a bottle of vodka double wineCandyman, candymanSweet sugar candyman

He's a one stop, gotcha hot, making all the panties dropSweet sugar candymanHe's a one stop, got me hot, making my ugh popSweet sugar candymanHe's a one stop, get it while it's hot, baby don't stopSweet sugar

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

However, I'd skip the vodka double wine and champagne to save Jane from falling. Without doubt the best music video ever.

Really, wouldn't it have been better if you had kept to your silent one of the internet shtick of a ''Gimpel the Fool'' schlemiel--"I'm the type that bears it and says nothing. What's one to do? Shoulders are from God, and burdens too" (Isaac Bashevis Singer)--rather than dump all this incoherent, semi-illiterate, random, overblown, pointless babbling? When are you going to man-up, not that anybody truly cares or even notices after all.

Possibility some day I'll be worthy of Muddy Waters' mojo and become a "Mannish Boy".

Mannish Boy

Muddy Waters

Everythin', everythin', everythin's gonna be alright this mornin'Ooh yeah, whoawNow when I was a young boy, at the age of fiveMy mother said I was, gonna be the greatest man aliveBut now I'm a man, way past 21Want you to believe me baby,I had lot's of funI'm a manI spell mmm, aaa child, nnnThat represents manNo B, O child, YThat mean mannish boyI'm a manI'm a full grown manI'm a manI'm a natural born lovers manI'm a manI'm a rollin' stoneI'm a manI'm a hoochie coochie man

Sittin' on the outside, just me and my mateYou know I'm made to move you honey,come up two hours lateWasn't that a manI spell mmm, aaa child, nnnThat represents manNo B, O child, YThat mean mannish boyI'm a manI'm a full grown manManI'm a natural born lovers manManI'm a rollin' stoneMan-childI'm a hoochie coochie manThe line I shoot will never missWhen I make love to a woman,she can't resistI think I go down,to old Kansas StewI'm gonna bring back my second cousin,that little Johnny CocherooAll you little girls,sittin'out at that lineI can make love to you woman,in five minutes timeAin't that a manI spell mmm, aaa child, nnnThat represents manNo B, O child, YThat mean mannish boyManI'm a full grown manManI'm a natural born lovers manManI'm a rollin' stoneI'm a man-childI'm a hoochie coochie manwell, well, well, wellhurry, hurry, hurry, hurryDon't hurt me, don't hurt me childdon't hurt me, don't hurt, don't hurt me childwell, well, well, well

Yeah

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Deflation has resulted in the growth of consumption-haters. It appears that only thing worst than the avid consumption of goods for hollowing out a society's soul and spirit, is the even more destructive anti-consumption mood in Japan that's rotting it's soul and spirit.

Gabacho, what are who doing to help the Latinos living in the El Norte, pinche puto pendejo baboso?

As in the film "Malcolm X":

Why you can't even get drugs in Harlem without the White Man's permission! You can't get prostitution in Harlem without the White Man's permission! You can't get gambling in Harlem without the White Man's permission! Every time you break the seal on that liquor bottle, that's a Government seal you're breaking!

And you can't get illegal aliens workers without the White Man's permission. It seems we'll all just have to patiently (or impatiently as the case may be) wait for the Know-Nothings to rant and rave themselves out, and then we can all come to some compromise that will make everyone equally mad.

But gracias for asking!

Mr. Policy Analyst hotshot, what is it going to take to get us out of the this Great Recession?

It'll take three things to happen: demand, demand, and more demand. When people start spending more money, and only then, will the recession be over.

What do you think of this Lily Allen's song?

Fuck You Very Much lyricsSongwriters: Allen, Lily Rose; Kurstin, Gregory

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

It's a bissel too much random anger, but to each his or her own.

Loosen up blabbermouth. Where's the fun with all this prissy nanny hyper-level of earnestness and self-control? If everyone acted like this "Hamlet" would be a brief, unexciting one-act play.

Yes.

When your so-call blog was put through Gobbledygook Grader, it scored a 73 (out of a 100) which means it is at the graduate level and is barely decipherable to normal humans. So what do you say about that?

Okay. Or is this answer too much gobbledygook?

What's with this fetish with splated maple and other exotic woods?

What can I say, but I loves me some rare woods.

Why waste so much time on clothing when there are more important things of concerned. Aren't you just judging a book by it's cover.

Don't be psyched-out about what can and can't be worn, or what should or shouldn't be worn. Style should not be off-putting, but bring pleasure. Anti-style is by choice not a federal mandate. We can't deny style, because we communicate visually in so many ways.

What do you think of http://fuckyeahmenswear.tumblr.com/?Is this not the coolest thing since horse shit? The pictures are great and the poetry is to die for. It makes your piss-ant blog look like worthless dog-shit.

Where is the girls riding bicycles section?

Mr. Tavi Gevinson, or whatever you are, what's the differences between bespoke garments from tailors in Savile row, Milano, Roma, and Napoli? Compare differences and the propriety of, for instance, sleeve attachment and width, front dart, shirt-set sleeves, shoulder shape, short back balance, drape, open quarters, lapped seams, lapels, relatively short length, gorge, and other important nuances and subtleties of proper suits and jackets.

These are distinctions without important differences. The only difference I've found is the attractiveness of the woman at the suit wearer's side.

Your blog reads well. The anecdotes are occasionally amusing. There is some real emotion. The reading pace is brisk enough to fool the unwary blog reader into a suspension of disbelief at the beginning, but then the weakness of this chatty-Cathy strategy becomes apparent: you are impatient, petulant, and shallow, and glibly breeze through important fundamental and substantive decisions about proper style without slowing down to acknowledge their complexity. Some the most important questions of style--fit, propriety, tradition, etc.--you refuse to honestly consider opposing points of views of clothing styles or see the long-term, ancillary effects of your idiosyncratic views of style.

Mileage varies. Insularity to diversity and freshness can lead to sameness and be stale and stuffy. There is a need to constantly be on watch against stodginess, hubris, and boredom. One must seek clothing choices that can be energizing, and indeed be surprising at times. Being adventurous in style and design breathes freshness and light into an otherwise insular world.

Isn't sprezzatura just an excuse for being lazy? At best isn't it a labored, affected effort at looking as though you're not trying too hard? Aren't you just unsuccessfully attempting to hoodwink others that you aren't hyper-obsessed with fashion? Sprezzatura reeks of desperation and a pathetic attempt at overt attention seeking.

It can mean there are details one's just not always fussing over. Sprezzatura or nonchalance is imposed by others, not by individual. Some may call it sprezzatura, or that the dresser doesn't know what going on or otherwise clueless. However, for it to truly be sprezzatura then neither the dresser or the viewer should care. Natural sprezzatura is showing one's individual style expression of wearing clothing or accessories. It's only sprezzatura when others can't tell if ones being careless on purpose--it must be natural. What is needed is provided by Technotronic:

TechnotronicPump Up The Jam

Yo Come On Move ThisShake That BodyShake That BodyPeople dont you know, dont you knowits about timecant you hear the jam is pumpinwhile you taste the piece of minemany different flavoursand the bass is strongget into the hot stufflet me pour a little onBaby let me show you how to do disyou ve gotta move thisyoure doing finetheres nothing to ityou gotta move thiscome on and move thisshake that body forPeople dont you know....Can you feel the mellow crawling fastdrum oh babyrhythms blastpump it pump it pump it upbet you cant make this once stopyouve gotta move thisyouve gotta move thisshake that body ahshake that body coolPeople dont...Pump It takenFingers snappinhands club and Mamas RappinTalkin about cold loughinshut up and you the oneuse what you got show meyour on the floor so let me seedont say nothing less i sawand remember i like it rawBaby let me show...

Pump up the jampump it upwhy your feet are stomping?And the jam is pumpinglook at it get the crowd jumpin'pump it up a little moreget the party goin' on the dance floorsee 'cause that's where the party's at and you fine dinning, to bad(chours)I want a place to say:"get your booty on the floor tonight"make my dayI want a place to say:"get your booty on the floor tonight"make my daymake my day (x4)Yo! Pump up the jampump it upwhy your feet are stomping?And the jam is pumpinglook at it get the crowd jumpin'pump it up a little moreget the party goin' on the dance floorsee 'cause that's where the party's at and you fine dinning, to bad(chours)make my day (x5)Yo! Pump up the jampump it uppump it upYo! Pump it!pump up the jampump it uppump it upYo! Pump itpump up the jampump it uppump it upYo! Pump itpump up the jampump it (echo)Pump up the jam,Pump up the jam,Pump up the jampump it uppump it,pump it,pump it,Pump up the jam,Pump up the jam,Pump up the jam,pump it (echo)Pump up the jampump it upwhy your feet are stomping?And the jam is pumpinglook at it get the crowd jumpin'pump it up a little moreget the party goin' on the dance floorsee 'cause that's where the party's at and you fine dinning, to bad(chours)Pump up the jampump it uppump it upYo! Pump it!pump up the jampump it uppump it upYo! Pump up the jampump it uppump it upYo! Pump it!pump up the jampump it (echo)

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Style is a process of discovery and experimentation, and it helps to be passionate, fierce, and fearless. Will mistakes happen? Yes, but that's one of the ways personal style is developed. A broad spectrum of loves and dislikes are probed. A variety of patterns and silhouettes can be tried. One must be open to options. One can be a bellwether for those trying to develop their own style. Perhaps the old chestnut explains it:

It ain't the meat it's the motionIt ain't the meat it's the motionThat makes your mama wanna rockIt ain't the meat it's the motionIt's the movement it isn't the stockWell, I got a girl that's so darn thinThere ain't much of her but bones and skinOne thing about her I can understandShe wraps all around me like a rubber band, babyIt ain't the meat it's the motionThat makes your mama wanna rockIt ain't the meat it's the motionIt's the movement it isn't the stockWell, I want a girl who's built real fatKenny don't like to see 'em like thatBut I like to see 'em big and tallThe bigger they come the harder they fallIt ain't the meat it's the motionThat makes your mama wanna rockIt ain't the meat it's the motionIt's the movement it isn't the stockWell, I want someone who feels like they got to have loveLove to look at the stars aboveMy little baby, I want you to knowShe'll bring me home all of her doughIt ain't the meat it's the motionIt ain't the meat, uhm uhm uhmIt ain't the meat, I say the actionThat makes your daddy wanna rockBring it down one timeIt ain't the meat it's the motionIt ain't the meat, I say the movement, girlIt ain't the meat, it's the actionThat makes your mama wanna rock

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Fashion trends and fads most often flub out. However, working class clothing—blue jeans, khakis, shearling, hoodies, etc.--are restrained without causing laughing and joking or too much narcissism. Clothing inspired by the working class is most often elegant and sensual--arising from of usefulness and custom rather than artistic desires. It's the working class that impacted the ways in which the upper strata presented themselves. It's blue-collar dress that sparks much style. Just look at the wide spread of working class style homages in men's clothing--plaid shirts, fisherman sweaters, Balfour jackets, and workman boots done up in finest leathers, wools and cashmere, and faux aged leather bomber jackets absorbing the cultural mélange and societal energy from thence these clothes were formed.Basic to the contemporary attire, blue jeans have a blue-collar genesis are now lofted by all and sundry. Though wearing an article of clothing simulating the working class doesn’t let someone borrow an air of integrity and humbleness--one can contentedly and unashamedly be living the good life. Working class clothing does have an honesty and gravity lacking in high style clothing. The “Of Mice and Men” stylishness exemplified by washed out denim and threadbare cotton as a declaration of matter-of-fact propriety and hard times sympathy. Euro-trash labels, e.g., Brunello Cucinelli, are keen on the modest but skilled artisans who generate their garments from quaint hamlets with 1,000 plus years of history of disadvantages.This is because everyone knows that the underprivileged and/or the rustic and/or the unrefined must have a healthier grip on reality and genuineness, so one can hope to capture a small piece of the working class spirit and essence. But one has not necessarily improved one’s character.

Why the entire unhealthy obsession in Eurotrash clothing and fashion that imply airs to standing above your grade with ugly, expensive attempts at sophistication? What wrong with minimalist and anonymous clothing? You are only actually fascinated in acquiring a miscellaneous and disjointed aggregate of statement bits and pieces, when you could otherwise put together concrete and flexible attire from the very beginning. You just think you know what you're blogging about when you really don't.

With all due respect this is just more groupthink. Minimalist and Conservative Business Clothing will also be cycled through the fashion mill along with all other styles. Personal style can and should have a degree of presence and individuality. There is more than one way to elegant style. There can be a risk if one combines clothing genres, because observers might not be sure what they're perceiving. Variety and singularity in wardrobe choices are a virtue. I don’t look for conformist style qualifications and would rather discover unfamiliar territory, sighting an untried garment.I’m looking for a general impression, though details are often the deciding factor.The clothing cognoscenti aren’t the all, end-all of style. I’m fond of what I like — it’s only one view. In a certain way, if one tries wearing something a tad bit different, it can be most rewarding. I ain’t claiming to be anything that I’m not.

How important is the "feel" of your clothing?

If "feel" means the texture and hand of the fabrics, then it's my highest priority. Fine wools, cashmere, cotton linen, silk, etc. are the pièce de résistance of clothing. If "feel" means comfortable clothing, then I'm all for it. However, if "feel" refers to a hyper-concern and obsession with how a garment's fit "feels" to the individual, then it becomes a question of idiosyncratic and unique individual comfort that borders on a kind of neurotic narcissism.

What's the best sad song people have no awareness of and have never heard?

Doug StoneI'D Be Better Off (In A Pine Box)

I said the night you left me,Nothin' worse could ever happen,But seeing you with someone else proved that I was wrong.And when your eyes met mine,I knew that you were gone forever,Along with all the reasons , I had for hanging on.I'd be better off in a pine box,On a slow train back to Georgia,Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.I think I'd rather die,And go to hell and face the devil,Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.

I always thought that someday,We might get back together.I just thought you needed time to spread your wings and fly.But when I saw the lovin' way,You held onto each other,It was all that I could do, not to break right down and cry.

I'd be better off in a pine box,On a slow train back to Georgia,Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.I think I'd rather die,And go to hell and face the devil,Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.

Girl I'd be better off in a pine box,On a slow train back from Georgia,Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.I think I'd rather die,And go to hell and face the devil,Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.

I can't lie here with you and him together on my mind

I said the night you left me,Nothin' worse could ever happen,But seeing you with someone else proved that I was wrong.And when your eyes met mine,I knew that you were gone forever,Along with all the reasons , I had for hanging on.I'd be better off in a pine box,On a slow train back to Georgia,Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.I think I'd rather die,And go to hell and face the devil,Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.I always thought that someday,We might get back together.I just thought you needed time to spread your wings and fly.But when I saw the lovin' way,You held onto each other,It was all that I could do, not to break right down and cry.I'd be better off in a pine box,On a slow train back to Georgia,Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.I think I'd rather die,And go to hell and face the devil,Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.Girl I'd be better off in a pine box,On a slow train back from Georgia,Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.I think I'd rather die,And go to hell and face the devil,Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.I can't lie here with you and him together on my mind.

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

How often do you have your clothes dry cleaned?

Just say no to dry cleaning. One will bless their clothing and the environment both. After wearing, hang them to air out, then apply some steam. Have them spot cleaned and pressed if necessary. I do like a freshly laundered, starched shirt daily, and find that a shirt just gets better with multiple washings.

What is your favorite color?

Grey is, in all its various shades, and in most all fabrics and textures. Too much grey, is not enough grey.

You are going to adopt the superior virtues of the Oneshoe, Onepant, etc. ethic, aren't you?

Courtesy of the military, I practiced for years the Oneshoe, Onepant, Oneboot, Oneshirt, Onebelt, etc., and again monkish penury while I was in college. In light of these years long experiences, I think I'm about to break right down and cry: I'd rather be in a pinebox on a slow train back to Georgia, and go to hell and face the devil, than stand here in the grey Onepants thingy weighting on my fragile psyche (all apologies to Doug Stone).

Please tell me when "Beavis and Butt-Head" will return to MTV?

I too awaiedt with bated and bad breath their return. They came and are gone now.

Unfortunately, Alexa Chung's show is only available in merry olde England. We can't have everything, can we?

Why is your poor miserable worthless soul sometimes the piñata of the world-wide-web?

As a gabacho it just seems that many of lurkers' jugheads are cracked after the blindfolded ranter with the Louisville Slugger continues to swing, as the covey of lurkers spread and fight for the exploded candy causing what left of their brains to be damaged resulting in unemployment, low scores on "Jeopardy" and dependence on food stamps. Poster after poster smacks the piñata, trying to crack it and get at the desirable items inside. Ain't this a coolest metaphor for playerhate. In some ways one is reminded of:

Tubthumping

Chumbawamba

We'll be singingWhen we're winningWe'll be singingI get knocked downBut I get up againYou're never going to keep me downPissing the night awayHe drinks a whisky drinkHe drinks a vodka drinkHe drinks a lager drinkHe drinks a cider drinkHe sings the songs that remind himOf the good timesHe sings the songs that remind himOf the better times"Oh Danny BoyDanny Boy..."I get knocked downBut i get up againYou're never Goin to keep me downPissing the night awayHe drinks a whisky drinkHe drinks a vodka drinkHe drinks a lager drinkHe drinks a cider drinkHe sings the songs that remind himOf the good timesHe sings the songs that remind himOf the better times"Don't cry for meNext door neighbour..."I get knocked downBut I get up againYou're never going to keep me downWe'll be singingWhen we're winingWe'll be singing

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

The getting is the easy part, the keeping is the hard part. I talked with April in Paris and Fleming about a bespoke billfold for my father-in-law, per instructions of his most dutiful daughter. He had this totally decrepit billfold for 70 years that he must have paid all of 25 cents for, and it looked to be made of cardboard. Fleming agreed to replicate it in fine leather for about $200. My wife gave it to him for his birthday and he was on cloud-nine over it. He lost the billfold and it contains that same day. ["Last Christmas I gave you my heart,/But the very next day,/ You gave it away."] A month latter he received by mail an unmarked brown envelop with his driver's license and credit cards--no cash or billfold however. As I said, it was a very nice billfold.

What the 411 on the old camelhair overcoat that appears to be older than sin?

Previous owner:

Meeks, Carroll L. V. (Carroll Louis Vanderslice), 1907-1966

"Yale will build a new arts library and a history of art building on an empty lot where Gentree’s Clothing once stood."

Architectural historian of XIXth century at Yale University.

Biography: Kleinbauer, W. Eugene. Research Guide to the History of Western Art. Sources of Information in the Humanities, no. 2. Chicago: American Library Association, 1982, p. 73; Kleinbauer, W. Eugene. Modern Perspectives in Western Art History: An Anthology of 20th-Century Writings on the Visual Arts. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1971, pp. 42, 51 mentioned, 67 cited.

Bibliography: The Railroad Station: An Architectural History. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1956; Italian Architecture: 1750-1914. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1966.

Help me and explain why can't white folks dance?

If you have the intestinal fortitude to know why, then please view this:

Let's see. I don't own or use any Apple products, no microbrews, no single malts, no gourmet coffee, no indie music, don't listen to David Sedaris, don't read the paper Sunday NYT (but do read it on the web), don't shop at the food coop, don't get Sarah Silverman or Wes Anderson, own several TVs, don't watch classic films, etc.