As it celebrates its first anniversary in Rhinebeck, The Amsterdam restaurant is welcoming a new star executive chef from the Daniel Boulud Group in Manhattan.

Most recently, Alex Burger was executive chef at Bar Boulud on the Upper West Side.

Judging by a recent weeknight dinner at this stylish, buzzy restaurant on Mill Street in downtown Rhinebeck, he’s off to a great start.

The Amsterdam, one of the Hudson Valley’s notable restaurant openings of 2017 (named Best New Restaurant of 2017 by Hudson Valley Magazine, east side of the river), has appointed a new Executive Chef – Alexander(Photo: Alyssa Ringler)

Since opening in April 2017, The Amsterdam has won wide acclaim for its inventive and delicious farm-to-table fare, handsome décor and welcoming hospitality from husband-and-wife owners Howard and Chris Jacobs.

The Amsterdam sits within one of the town’s longest-standing buildings, a Dutch townhouse originally built in 1798. The Jacobs acquired the building in 2014, then an antique store, and began a massive renovation to transform the space into a modern restaurant.

The room is gorgeous and inviting, with a three-sided zinc-topped bar dominating the front of the house and an open kitchen toward the back. The ceilings are high, with steel beams and warehouse-style pendant lights. Original fireplaces flank both ends of the room. Comfortable Windsor chairs and pine tables and floors help to warm up the room.

There is also a sprawling back yard with a bocce court, fire pit, patio for al fresco dining and plenty of seating at picnic tables or in Adirondack chairs. Just the spot for an after-dinner drink under the stars.

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The Amsterdam, one of the Hudson Valley’s notable restaurant openings of 2017 (named Best New Restaurant of 2017 by Hudson Valley Magazine, east side of the river), has appointed a new Executive Chef – Alexander Alyssa Ringler

The Amsterdam, one of the Hudson Valley’s notable restaurant openings of 2017 (named Best New Restaurant of 2017 by Hudson Valley Magazine, east side of the river), has appointed a new Executive Chef – Alexander Alyssa Ringler

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House-smoked ham: The ham is brined for seven days with aromatics then cooked in a steam oven overnight, says Burger. “When it’s fully cooked, we cold smoke the ham with cherry wood.” The resulting soft and velvety ham is served with mustard seeds, pickles, Dijon mustard and slices of baguette. This was such a winner, perhaps the best thing we ate there.

Grilled asparagus: There’s nothing like that first taste of asparagus every spring, and this generous and very sharable dish did not disappoint. The grilled asparagus is brushed with the skin of Meyer lemons cooked in their own juice and served with grated Parmesan cheese and a splash of Hollandaise sauce. The asparagus was perfectly cooked, with both char marks and a nice snap. This also paired nicely with the ham.

Duck Liver Parfait: This was two slices of duck liver mousse drizzled with an Einset Grape gastrique and served with pickled shallots, grainy and Dijon mustards, and bread-and-butter pickles. Terrific, and great with a martini.

Grilled Flatbread: We had this as a snack at the bar one cold winter night and it was quite good. The salted flatbread had been cut into triangles, with a deep-red and subtly nutty roasted beet and hazelnut spread on the side.

Fettucine: The handmade, hand-cut fettuccine is cooked to order and tossed with garlic, olive oil, littleneck clams, white wine, parsley, lemon juice, cherry tomato confit, and baby spinach. My dining companion wasn’t happy with this dish, thinking the whole thing needed to be saucier and that the pasta was too thick for the rest of the ingredients. I liked it.

Duck breast: “The skin gets rendered down and then the breast is grilled to temperature and glazed with a cherry and balsamic jam,” Burger says. The flavorful duck is served over couscous mixed with dried cherries, pistachios, earl grey tea, cilantro and parsley. “We finish with a grilled brochette of its liver, heart and tenderloin,” says Burger. This was delicious, a great mix of flavors — and I loved the grilled organ meat on the side.

Lemon tart: We decided to share a dessert and this one was just right. The tart, made with a homemade almond crust and lemon curd, is topped with piped and torched meringue and then served alongside blueberry jam and housemade granola. Why gild the lily? The tart was great on its own.

Drinks and dessert

Amsterdam(Photo: JENNIFER MAY )

The 90-bottle wine list is impressive, with selections from California, Washington, France, Italy, Spain, Germany, South America, and New York State. Prices start around $35 and go up to around $400 for some high-end labels. Fifteen wines are usually available by the glass, priced from $8 to $14.

Lots of local craft beers are on hand, priced from $8 to $11. Seasonal house cocktails, which lean heavily on Prohibition concoctions and local spirits, range from $11 to $14.

Along with the lemon tart, other dessert options included chocolate cake, baked apple, Earl Grey mousse, and gelato and sorbet.

Inside scoop

Looking for a swell private party space in Rhinebeck? The Amsterdam’s second floor was designed specifically for private events, with a lounge that opens into a customizable dining room for 12 to 40-plus guests.

The Amsterdam in Rhinebeck.(Photo: Amsterdam)

What we will order next

Probably just a fleet of snacks and apps, including the charcuterie plate and the fried pickled vegetables.

What’s nearby

You’re in the heart of downtown Rhinebeck, which is always worth a walk-around. The Center for Performing Arts at Rhinebeck, which has live theater, music and dance is at 661 Route 308.

THE 411 ON THE AMSTERDAM

Cuisine: New American

Entrée price range: $19 to $38

Noise level: Can get loud on busy nights

Hours: 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays, till 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays for dinner; 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays for brunch; bar opens at 5 p.m. Mondays to Fridays and is open from 11 a.m. to close on Saturdays and Sundays