Scene: If there is a bigger Buddha in town, I’d like to see it. A golden statue of the enlightened one pre­sides over the old Kirkwood Hotel’s newly renovated corner with a peaceful expression that would have fit right in when the place was still Zen Sushi & Noodle Bar. (The most recent ten­ant was Cuatro, serving Asian-Mexican burritos.)

But the new enterprise isn’t entirely feng-shui serene. The downtown offshoot of Wasabi Chi, Jay Wang’s hidden gem on Douglas Avenue, buzzes with the kind of urban energy that city planners hope will recharge the Walnut Street corridor. Red upholstery covers a pair of round booths near the entrance, and a gilt railing divides a row of tables from the central bar. It’s a touch stage-y in daylight but suitably dramatic at night.

Food: The lunch menu is ample but not overwhelm­ing, with a dozen-some choices of soups, salads, appetizers and heftier entrees of steak and sea­food, plus an array of inno­vative sushi rolls (including the Italian Stallion, French Connection, Out of Control and Hotel Kirkwood). We started with hot tea in a squat cast-iron pitcher ($2) and a bowl of squid salad ($6), which was tender with just the right bit of spice.

The bento box special (just under $10) is a great deal for lunch, with belly-warm­ing miso soup, four Califor­nia roll pieces, two bread­ed dum­plings, steam­ed rice, green salad and a choice of noodles, sashimi or sushi, served on a tray.

My friend chose shrimp and chicken with udon noo­dles (no complaints there) and I had a nigiri quartet: one slice each of tuna, sea bass, salmon and snail, each served on a tiny pillow of rice. Everything was tasty except the snail, which was no doubt fresh but crunch­ier than I had expected. Who knew mollusks had so much cartilage?

On the clock: We were in and out in about 45 min­utes. Both the hostess and server were prompt and friendly.

Bottom line: A lot of businesses have come and gone here, but this just might be the one to stick — a good deal for lunch and slick enough for a night on the town.