The completely reconstructed Hiroshima Castle.
The Hiroshima Castle has been completely reconstructed.

The Itsukushima Shrine offers little access to its interiors, but the circa 16th-century structures are essentially viewed by meandering along outside walkways. — Barbara Selwitz
A portion of the ancient Itsukushima Shrine. Barbara Selwitz, photo

One of Miyajima's pleasures is wandering its intriguing back streets. Barbara Selwitz photo
One of Miyajima’s pleasures is wandering its intriguing back streets.

The Great Torii, standing in Miyajima’s harbor. — Barbara Selwitz
The Great Torii stands in Miyajima’s harbour and marks the entrance to the Itsukushima Shrine. — photos: Barbara Selwitz

No trip to Japan is complete without a stop in Hiroshima.

Nearly seven decades after Aug. 6, 1945 when it became the first wartime target of an atomic bomb, Hiroshima today is a modern industrial centre with harrowing remembrances of horrors past.

Seeing the Atomic Bomb Dome — the shell of the 1915 industrial promotion hall that stood almost directly beneath the bomb’s aerial explosion point — is unforgettable. So is the nearby arched Cenotaph, a sculpture honouring those who died immediately or later as a result of burns or radiation exposure. Below the arch is a stone chest housing a register of more than 220,000 of their names.

Also moving is the Children’s Peace Monument, dedicated to the youngest bomb casualties. It depicts a girl — who was two at the time of the attack — and a crane. The statue “re-tells” her belief that if she could fold a thousand paper cranes she could survive her leukemia. Unfortunately, she died in 1955.

However it’s the Peace Memorial Museum, a vast repository of historical remnants and movingly presented personal tales, where visitors spend the most time.

The East Building reviews modern Japanese history, starting with the 1868 Meiji restoration, its rapid industrialization, the Russo-Japanese War of 1904-1905, the rise of militarism, and the wars in China that preceded the Second World War.

Fascinating artifacts include a letter from Albert Einstein to President Franklin Roosevelt discussing the possible use of the bomb; and explanations about how Hiroshima became the initial target.

One of several cities under consideration, Hiroshima was ultimately picked due to the very clear sky over the city on the morning of the bombing, and the fact Hiroshima had suffered relatively little previous bombing damage. This ensured the specific impact of the bomb would be easier to discern.

But the heart of the museum is the bombing itself and terrible aftermath. Photographs and documents explain attempts at saving as many residents as possible. Seeing gut-wrenching remembrances — including charred sandals, watches, a melted tricycle, fused coins and buttons, and other metal pieces — sears your memory. Also here are many stories of those who survived, some for a brief time, some for decades.

All of this makes the events of that morning as real and as horrendous as most visitors can endure. Expect to spend at least two hours here.

You’ll also want to visit the reconstruction of the circa 1590s five-stories-tall Hiroshima Castle tower.

This recreation replaced an imposing edifice that stood until the atomic bomb attack. Reopened in 1958, it now details the castle’s history, life within the castle, the growth of Hiroshima as it expanded from the castle site, conflicts between Samurai and townspeople.

Also here are displays of armour and other weaponry.

Then there is the quite compact and high quality Hiroshima Museum of Art. Opened in 1978, Its prime draw is its largely 19th century collection of French impressionists including works by Manet, Monet, Renoir, Seurat, Toulouse-Lautrec, Pissaro, Cezanne, Gauguin, Matisse, Signac and Van Gogh.

Other important artists whose paintings are here include Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall and the lesser-known (in the West) but fascinating Japanese painter Leonard Foujita. The museum also shows its extensive collection of Japanese contemporary art.

For a complete change of pace don’t miss Miyajima Island. Reachable via a tourist boat docked near the Atom Bomb dome, or by an hour-long commuter train/ ferry combination, this is a special, once-sacred spot that’s become world famous due to images of its Great Torii (gate). Depending on the tides, it stands either in shallow waters or on a beach when it is easily accessed by foot.

Photographers flock here, particularly during early morning or late afternoon to capture images of this iconic vermilion four-legged structure, which stands in front of the Itsukushima Shrine. While the present 53-foot-tall gate was erected in 1875, predecessors have been here since the eleventh century.

The actual shrine, the same colour as the torii, debuted in the late sixth century. Repeatedly repaired, and offering little access to any interiors, the circa 16th century structures are basically viewed by wending along outside walkways.

Miyajima’s many other sights include the History and Folklore Museum which fills the former 19th century home of a soy sauce merchant. Here you can see the tools, and envision the lifestyle, of a mid-level tradesman.

Also, while the heart of Miyajima can get quite crowded, things thin out rather quickly as you ascend the slopes of Mount Misen. En route, a favourite stopping point is the Daisho-in Temple with its many buildings.

Back at sea level, there are many narrow streets to wend through, tame deer to navigate around, and plenty of shops and eateries including several selling huge, tasty, roasted oysters.

Seafood also dominates menus in modern downtown Hiroshima. Like most major Japanese cities, Hiroshima boasts its own brightly neon-lit entertainment district packed with restaurants and nightclubs. Nagarekawa and Yagenbori are the area’s main streets.

And, particularly for North American fans who’ve never seen Japanese baseball, the major league Hiroshima Toyo Carp play in a lovely outdoor stadium that’s close to the main rail station.

It takes three hours to reach Hiroshima by train from Osaka, between three and four hours from Kyoto, and five and a half hours from Tokyo. Hiroshima is also four and a half to five hours by train from Nagasaki.

On August 9, 1945, Nagasaki was the last city to be hit by an atomic bomb. It, too, has an impressive memorial park and museum.

When you go:

Japanese National Tourist Organization: The prime source for information and guidance for anyone heading

Rihga Royal Hotel: This comfortable modern property, directly across the street from the Hiroshima Museum of Art, is also an easy walk to the Peace Memorial Park and Hiroshima Castle. The Rihga Royal is a first-class affiliate with Worldhotels. worldhotels.com.

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