Blanquette de Veau

This classic French dish might be the most comforting stew ever - it is rich, creamy, and aromatic, but somehow delicate and light. Blanquette refers to a cooking technique in which you don't actually brown the meat; rather, you let the meat cook slowly and gently from start to finish.

I first had Blanquette de Veau when Dave and I were visiting family in Paris. The French mother of the house appropriately served it to us on a chilly November evening in their old Bastille apartment. She used porcini mushrooms in place of traditional button, taking the stew to a new level of decadence. Now, I only ever prepare this stew with nutty porcinis. Yes, they are more expensive, but when dried the flavor is so concentrated that you don't need to use very many mushrooms.

Customarily, Blanquette de Veau is served with pasta or rice, but I find a crusty loaf of bread is the only thing that will do. It goes without saying you should seek out quality, free-raised veal. You can alternatively use beef in this recipe, but if you can find a butcher who has very good veal, it is well worth it, and you'll see what makes this dish so special.

Blanquette de Veau (Veal Stew)

2 pounds veal shoulder, cut into large cubes

1 teaspoon salt, divided

1/2 teaspoon pepper, divided

2 tablespoons canola oil, divided (1 for meat, 1 for veg_

1 onion, chopped

1 leek, halved and thinly sliced (pale green and white parts only)

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 celery sticks, plus leaves, chopped

2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch rounds

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 1/2 cups beef or chicken broth

7 sprigs thyme

4 sprigs rosemary

1 bay leaf

4 cloves

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms

3 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup flour

1 egg yolk

2 tablespoons cream

Juice of 1 lemon

Parsley, to garnish

Season veal with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

In a large stockpot or dutch oven over medium heat, gently warm 1 tablespoon oil. Add veal. Without frying, cook meat until colored all over but not deeply browned, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, 5 minutes. Transfer veal to a plate.