We
start with high quality cedar veneer stock and a form over which the veneers
can be bent. These veneers are applied on the diagonal with each subsequent
layer epoxied at right angles to the previous one for strength, stiffness
and stability. Each layer is then vacuum bagged before the epoxy sets.
This process allows the vacuum pressure to uniformly clamp the entire
hull thereby eliminating the possibility of voids in the laminate. The
final result is a rigid, one piece structure made completely out of wood,
not fiberglass.

How
does a cold-molded hull compare to a fiberglass hull?

Wood has
a far superior strength to weight ratio than does fiberglass.
Wood is a far better insulator against sound than fiberglass.
Wood is far more resistant to fatigue than fiberglass.

Owners
Chip and Scott apply a second layer of cedar veneers to a new West Pointer
18.

How
can I tell the difference?

The
cold-molded wooden hull is lighter with a more quiet and comfortable
ride than its typical fiberglass counterpart. It requires a smaller
engine for the same performance.

What
about maintenance?

Unlike
traditional wooden boat construction where the hull planking shrinks
and swells each season, a cold-molded boat requires no more annual maintenance
than an aluminum or fiberglass boat. The rigid one-piece hull structure
provides an excellent base for any paint system.

What
about rot?

We
start with decay resistant wood species' and completely seal with epoxy.
The result is a solid, impervious structure. With proper maintenance,
rot won't have a chance to get started.

What
about blistering?

This
is a term associated with fiberglass boats laid up with polyester resin.
Essentially, the polyester resin allows the fiberglass strands to wick
moisture into the hull causing local delamination. The typical (and expensive)
repair is to grind back to sound fiberglass and seal with epoxy to keep
the moisture out. This is not an issue with our cold-molded hulls due
to the materials and techniques we use.