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I'm getting a DIEBOLD FILE SAFE that is about 5 feet tall and 3 feet
wide, double doors. Its locked and there's no combination so I'm
probably giong to have to drill the door to get into the combination
lock.

I had thought about cutting the bottom panel out of it to gain entry
then welding it back in as I did with a Wendy's Restaurant money safe
but I don't know if there are any partitions in this box.

I have a TAYLOR safe which I successfully drilled, thanks to a
locksmith years ago but I have since lost track of him.

I'm looking for a locksmith or someone else who will tell me what the
correct drill point is.

On Sun, 07 Oct 2012 12:13:41 -0400, Ro Grrr
wrote:
I'm getting a DIEBOLD FILE SAFE that is about 5 feet tall and 3 feet
wide, double doors. Its locked and there's no combination so I'm
probably giong to have to drill the door to get into the combination
lock.

I had thought about cutting the bottom panel out of it to gain entry
then welding it back in as I did with a Wendy's Restaurant money safe
but I don't know if there are any partitions in this box.

I have a TAYLOR safe which I successfully drilled, thanks to a
locksmith years ago but I have since lost track of him.

I'm looking for a locksmith or someone else who will tell me what the
correct drill point is.

Good luck on anyone just coming out and telling you how to break into
it - without asking for a cut of the loot inside... The whole idea of
a safe is to be resistant to forced entry, and especially on high end
items like Diebold there are elaborate safeguards inside to make it
slow and difficult on purpose.

Any ethical locksmith, the first thing he does is check you out to
make sure you're in lawful possession of that safe and should be let
inside. And this might involve a three-way discussion with Local Law
Enforcement. If he busts into a stolen safe for you, he becomes an
accessory to the original crime - and he doesn't want that.

Then once you pass that test, he takes your money, wanders off to a
secure area with the safe - or shoos you out of the room if he has to
do it in place - while he breaks into the safe. No pictures or video
allowed.

Then he installs a new lock (set to the combination you want) and
takes the remains of the old lock with him for disposal so you can't
see how it was done.

And the unethical Locksmiths are usually in prison, or working in
another profession. The licensing is too stringent, and you don't
work in the field without one.

If you want to see how the locking mechanism of your safe works,
you'll have to take the door apart yourself later on your own.

I'm getting a DIEBOLD FILE SAFE that is about 5 feet tall and 3 feet
wide, double doors. Its locked and there's no combination so I'm
probably giong to have to drill the door to get into the combination
lock.

The first thing to do is try the "storage" combination, and the
reverse of that in case someone mis-remembered the order when setting it
for storage.

Starting to the left:

50 L (past three times and then stop on)
25 R (past two times and then stop on)
50 L (past once and then stop on)
0 R (and then either continue if there is not a turn bar
in the center of the knob, or Turn the bar and go back
left until it stops.

or perhaps (same pattern)

25
50
25
0
I had thought about cutting the bottom panel out of it to gain entry
then welding it back in as I did with a Wendy's Restaurant money safe
but I don't know if there are any partitions in this box.

If it is the one which I dealt with at work, there are three
full-width shelves inside it. I never tried to change the height, so
I'm not sure whether they are movable or not, but I think that they are.
We had some interesting classified hardware stored in the bottom of one
of them.

And I believe that these were made to resist fire, so they have
a thick wall full of asbestos-concrete, which I believe also applies to
the floor of the cabinet.

I have a TAYLOR safe which I successfully drilled, thanks to a
locksmith years ago but I have since lost track of him.

I'm looking for a locksmith or someone else who will tell me what the
correct drill point is.

Typically, these things (Diebold, Mosler and similar) have a
layer of really nasty stuff to drill through. A mix of concrete, old
indexable tool inserts, broken file fragments, and anything else to make
the task much more difficult.

I'm getting a DIEBOLD FILE SAFE that is about 5 feet tall and 3 feet
wide, double doors. Its locked and there's no combination so I'm
probably giong to have to drill the door to get into the combination
lock.

The first thing to do is try the "storage" combination, and the
reverse of that in case someone mis-remembered the order when setting it
for storage.

Starting to the left:

50 L (past three times and then stop on)
25 R (past two times and then stop on)
50 L (past once and then stop on)
0 R (and then either continue if there is not a turn bar
in the center of the knob, or Turn the bar and go back
left until it stops.

or perhaps (same pattern)

25
50
25
0
I had thought about cutting the bottom panel out of it to gain entry
then welding it back in as I did with a Wendy's Restaurant money safe
but I don't know if there are any partitions in this box.

If it is the one which I dealt with at work, there are three
full-width shelves inside it. I never tried to change the height, so
I'm not sure whether they are movable or not, but I think that they are.
We had some interesting classified hardware stored in the bottom of one
of them.

And I believe that these were made to resist fire, so they have
a thick wall full of asbestos-concrete, which I believe also applies to
the floor of the cabinet.

I have a TAYLOR safe which I successfully drilled, thanks to a
locksmith years ago but I have since lost track of him.

I'm looking for a locksmith or someone else who will tell me what the
correct drill point is.

Typically, these things (Diebold, Mosler and similar) have a
layer of really nasty stuff to drill through. A mix of concrete, old
indexable tool inserts, broken file fragments, and anything else to make
the task much more difficult.

A few safes that I saw, would be easy to open from the bottom with a
torch.

I'm getting a DIEBOLD FILE SAFE that is about 5 feet tall and 3 feet
wide, double doors. Its locked and there's no combination so I'm
probably giong to have to drill the door to get into the combination
lock.

I had thought about cutting the bottom panel out of it to gain entry
then welding it back in as I did with a Wendy's Restaurant money safe
but I don't know if there are any partitions in this box.

I have a TAYLOR safe which I successfully drilled, thanks to a
locksmith years ago but I have since lost track of him.

I'm looking for a locksmith or someone else who will tell me what the
correct drill point is.

On a slightly related subject. I was approached a couple weeks ago. There is
a lock picking club in a city near me. They wanted me to attend their
meetings and possibly teach lock picking. I managed to remain far more
polite than he deserved, and declined. Which, writing here, is far more
polite than I wish to wrote.

Good luck on anyone just coming out and telling you how to break into
it - without asking for a cut of the loot inside... The whole idea of
a safe is to be resistant to forced entry, and especially on high end
items like Diebold there are elaborate safeguards inside to make it
slow and difficult on purpose.

Any ethical locksmith, the first thing he does is check you out to
make sure you're in lawful possession of that safe and should be let
inside. And this might involve a three-way discussion with Local Law
Enforcement. If he busts into a stolen safe for you, he becomes an
accessory to the original crime - and he doesn't want that.

Then once you pass that test, he takes your money, wanders off to a
secure area with the safe - or shoos you out of the room if he has to
do it in place - while he breaks into the safe. No pictures or video
allowed.

Then he installs a new lock (set to the combination you want) and
takes the remains of the old lock with him for disposal so you can't
see how it was done.

And the unethical Locksmiths are usually in prison, or working in
another profession. The licensing is too stringent, and you don't
work in the field without one.

If you want to see how the locking mechanism of your safe works,
you'll have to take the door apart yourself later on your own.

On Sun, 07 Oct 2012 17:31:22 -0500, Ignoramus25258
wrote:
I go to auctions and I often see safes without keys. They have next to
no scrap value, due to concrete between the walls.

Therefore, they usually are free or almost free to take.

I may just buy a couple and try to open them and perhaps shoot a
couple of videos on "how to open a safe with a torch".

Iggy, I strongly suggest you resist the urge. Unless you want a
creative prosecutor to find your training video on the would-be Safe
Cracker's computer and charge you as an Accessory...

Just because you CAN do something does not mean you SHOULD.

Commercial Burglary Resistant Safes are rated at how long it takes the
average crook without insider knowledge to get into them - and the
longer they fumble around with it, the greater chances they get caught
in the act.

You 'blow the curve' by teaching the crooks how to do it, and the FBI
isn't going to be happy with you.

On 10/7/2012 8:14 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
No honorable locksmith would ever divulge security information like that.
Shame on you for asking a locksmith to dishonor himself.

So, locksmiths have greater integrity than the rest of us? And does
becoming a locksmith require an FBI background check to insure
honorable-ity, or what? I seem to recall "Study at Home to be a
Locksmith" ads in Popular Mechanics - how did they screen students?

On 2012-10-08, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Sun, 07 Oct 2012 17:31:22 -0500, Ignoramus25258
wrote:
I go to auctions and I often see safes without keys. They have next to
no scrap value, due to concrete between the walls.

Therefore, they usually are free or almost free to take.

I may just buy a couple and try to open them and perhaps shoot a
couple of videos on "how to open a safe with a torch".

Iggy, I strongly suggest you resist the urge. Unless you want a
creative prosecutor to find your training video on the would-be Safe
Cracker's computer and charge you as an Accessory...

I call this bull****. Seriously.
Just because you CAN do something does not mean you SHOULD.

Commercial Burglary Resistant Safes are rated at how long it takes the
average crook without insider knowledge to get into them - and the
longer they fumble around with it, the greater chances they get caught
in the act.

You 'blow the curve' by teaching the crooks how to do it, and the FBI
isn't going to be happy with you.

I am sure that they will not care. There is no law that says I cannot
film how I break into a safe that I own.