I just apprehended a 1954 Cub that was running when parked. It's been stuck for one year after sitting for a couple of years. They tried lubricants and dragging it with no luck. They gave up, and I'm prepared to overhaul it if necessary, but I've got the time to try to free it up.....

Can I use PB Blaster and get results. I've used it a lot for other stuff but never to unstick a motor. Also, will the cylinders be damaged by the rust or just the rings, and should I pull of the side cover?

The answer to all your questions is "depends". It really depends on why, and how bad, it is stuck. Could be rust in a cylinder or more than one. Rings could be stuck/rusted to block or there could be a pile of rust and carbon sitting on top of a piston that is pushing against the head. Could be a valve or valves stuck. It depends on how bad the rust is as to whether just rings or the cylinders themselves are damaged.

What I would do is take off the hood and get a good look down each spark plug hole. Then take the side cover off and get a look at the valves and try moving them. Before I did either I would loosen the fan belt to make sure the fan hub isn't siezed. There's a nut on the back of the fan shaft that YOU DO NOT TURN! Hold it still with a wrench while you turn the shaft. There are flats on it. The nut is captive between cast ears that will break if you turn it and then you'll have to replace the front engine cover.

Eugene wrote:One more thought, remove the starter. Could have been the cause of the initial engine lock up and is still locked into the flywheel.

Easy thing to check first. I bought a Cub last summer and the guy said it needed a starter and battery. When I looked at the Cub I found the engine locked up. The seller said he never had a locked engine problem. When I got it home I removed the starter and turned the fly wheel backward with a pry bar to free it. Turns out the seller had taken the starter off to test it and must have had it jammed enough to bind it making the engine appear locked. Also check remove the fan belts to make sure your fan isn't locked up. A froze fan with tight belts will give the impression the engine is locked.

It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something.- Franklin D. Roosevelt -

Thanks for all the responses. The starter was off when I got it, and also the spark plugs out. This thing may be too far gone, but I'll have to tear it down anyway, so I'm going to remove the head and side cover, and maybe the oil pan. I didn't think about the flywheel being stuck to the clutch or the water pump, but most likely since they pulled it with no success, it's probably full of rust in the cylinders. I just hope they didn't bend something by dragging it.

I didn't mention, but I got this tractor from a couple of old farmers that have been using it since it was new. They also have a Super C that I'm going to get as well. They the neighbors next to the little farm I bought, so these tractors are somewhat sentimental to me. Their father bought their place in 1938 and passed it down. They are around 80, and they are no longer able to vegetable farm. Hopefully the little cub and some of their experience will produce a wonderful garden.

ALBIE FIRST PUT ME IN TO IT-------IT IS FOR CORRODED BATTERY POSTS----IT IS SO PENITRATING AFTER YOU PUT IT ON THE BATTERY POSTS YOU WILL HAVE TO TIGHTEN UP TERMINALS BOLTS WILL WORK LOOSE------ALBIE HAD A CUB TRANS. ALL RUSTED UP-----PUT WHIP ON IT AND IN TWO WEEKS IT WAS FREE------THEN WASHED IT WITH--BIG DOGS-- SOLUTION (ASSATONE AND AUTO-TRAN-FLUID 50/50 )