Wouldn't that hurt the bright machined front face finish, though? I've thought about gentle blasting of the yellow bits and protecting the face with tape or something else soft and sticky. Would be a fair bit of work preparing them, though. I want to get more paint stripper, and a water blaster. I reckon if I soften it up first then the blaster should make light work of it with zero risk for the shiny bits.

Two are mint. Two have a few curbings that would need repairing/repainting to look pretty again. There's another rough set for sale right now that I can probably get for under 200 bucks. Might see about those ones, too. But I really don't need them...

These have near new tyres on them, so that's going to mean a fair bit of driving or a couple of huge burnouts. IE, perhaps these should be my "streets" and the 17" ones should be my "tracks" and the cheap ones should get the slicks on them? We'll see.

Well, the walnut shells are softer than the aluminum, so theoretically the aluminum wouldn't get scratched. It doesn't take off any aluminum material. I would try it. I thought it worked great on my parts, but I didn't have polished aluminum. You could also try soda blasting.

I searched around and several places stated "ferrous metals". I'm really keen on keeping the factory machined finish! :-D It's also not a huge priority. The 5 stud axle and 5 stud front hubs/brakes are required first, and I already have wheels/tyres to put on the truck as is. These I will finish when I feel like it, and buy tyres for once finished, or shortly before. It'd be pretty sweet driving around on the street with bulging rears and skinny fronts :-)

Another piece of the long term puzzle will be arriving in this city tomorrow evening. Another 1.8l engine to use as a base for a high revving bigger power build. Shorter stroke, longer stronger rods, forged pistons, hotter cams, perhaps solid lifters, 9k RPM or a bit more? 8k was effortless before anyway. Combined with some more boost I should finally be able to max out the Holset and lay down 550 to 600 crank horsepower :-D IF I ever get around to building it before I die... :-)

110 bucks! :-D Post KP reassembly I'm going to get all of my diffs into one place and try to make somesense of them again and assemble a working 5 stud LSD axle. Until then they'd just get in the way. Notsure what condition they're all in, either. But hopefully the 3.9 R&P is still rust-free and OK. Fingers crossed.

24.5/314 non-intersecting relative angle options are either side of my ideal ~12 degrees:

+/- ~20 So having it at 20 is 8 down, or so, which I'm happy with, unlike -20 which would be 32 degrees upward. Nearly vertical, back side of front axle, and slightly lower CG than purely vertical. Fine.

Worst case is ~8 degrees with a significant overlap of upright/caliper metal of something like 8.7mm. The ideal 12 degrees was pretty bad. Even the optimal 20 has a possible intersection with the caliper and upright.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forumYou cannot reply to topics in this forumYou cannot edit your posts in this forumYou cannot delete your posts in this forumYou cannot post attachments in this forum