If I have my history right, what’s currently Kotosh began as Kamiyama, which became Kotosh at Kamiyama, and then dropped the Kamiyama altogether when peripatetic chef Travis Kamiyama went off to a variety of venues — most recently (if I read his Facebook posts correctly) as the sushi chef on a cruise line where he seems to be having a great time traveling around the world.

Prepping sushi rolls on a luxury liner pulling into Hong Kong Harbor is a far cry from his old haunt in a Lomita mini-mall. But that old haunt is still well worth the visit. Kamiyama’s influence gave Kotosh a high standard to reach for. This isn’t just a very good sushi bar, it’s also a decidedly quirky one — one of the most distinctive Japanese-Peruvian eateries in town.

Of course, it’s not the only one. Nobu Matsuhisa spent several years in Peru, which is why his cooking at Matsuhisa and Nobu is so distinctive, and remarkably distinctive at that. For several years, the President of Peru was Alberto Fujimori (at least until he fled the country, and was returned by the government of Chile to stand trial). An estimated 100,000 Peruvians are said to be of Japanese descent; not a lot out of a population of 28 million, but enough to make a culinary difference.

The menu at Kotosh reads: “Peruvian Food & Sushi.” It makes it sound like two different menus that coexist peacefully but actually, there’s plenty of fusion at play here. This is a restaurant with lots of culinary overlap, plenty of dishes that borrow ingredients and techniques from both cuisines.

Consider, for instance, the Machu Picchu Roll, which would probably befuddle the master builders who constructed Machu Picchu high in the Andes. It consists of shrimp tempura and avocado, with tuna and spicy mayo, garlic, lime and soy. The garlic and lime give it a Peruvian twist and the seafood is Japanese — though it could just as well be Peruvian as the country did give us ceviche, after all.

The Peruvian SLUR is another example of the joy of fusion, with SLUR being an acronym for “Salmon Lover’s Ultimate Roll.” It’s made of crab and asparagus, topped with Norwegian salmon, with a spicy green sauce that tastes a lot like our old friend chimichurri. Then, there’s the Acebichado Roll — shrimp tempura, crab, halibut, cucumber and avocado in ceviche sauce, which tastes of lime and pepper — just like the sauce on ceviche.

There are more than two dozen rolls on the menu, many of which have names that only barely mirror their ingredients (that’s how it is pretty much everywhere). There’s the Goliath Roll, which is essentially a jumbo futomaki filled with shrimp, crab, eel, sundry roe and pickled vegetables.

There’s the Piranha Roll that is essentially a California Roll on steroids, with extra crab (that’s “crab,” not “krab”), topped with the semi-ubiquitous eel sauce. There’s a non-Peruvian SLUR Roll with crab and asparagus, topped with salmon, avocado, and “karpachio sauce” (described on the menu as “white wine sauce”). Do they mean “carpaccio?” Darned if I know. There’s a Philly SLUR Roll as well; of course, it’s made with cream cheese.

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If you want to stay all Japanese, there’s sushi, sashimi and a bunch of traditional rolls along with the exotic rolls. If you want to go more Peruvian, there are menu sections for “Ensaladas,” “Sopas,” “Mariscos” and “Platos Peruanos.”

What Peruvian cooking does with ordinary starches is pretty fabulous. The fried rice is a longtime favorite, tossed with chicken, beef, fish or mixed seafood. It’s not so much a fried rice as a Peruvian paella — a heck of a dish that tastes even better the next day.

And so do the saltados, though the french fries don’t really hold up that well. You mix french fries onions, tomatoes, chicken, beef, fish or seafood, and you better expect a certain amount of leftover slog.

If you’re in the mood, do try the soups — the Peruvian fish chowder (chupe de pescado), and a Peruvian shrimp chowder (chupe de camarones) and the parihuela (a sort of Andean bouillabaisse).

If you’ve got kids with you, check out their five-item menu. It features potato croquettes topped with eel sauce, and a roll made with grilled Spam, grilled egg (tamago) and avocado. Follow it all up with a choice of desserts like flan and mochi. Peru and Japan, sweetly together.