Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Insurance

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

11-02-2006 10:12 PM

Ripped

Quote:

Originally Posted by sevt_chevelle

I have used that process before with great results. Use the disc to warm up the metal then can move that metal around that didnt want to move before.

If you are finding that disc is too big for that area take a small 3in rolec grinding disc and ground that disc smooth on some scrap metal. Then run that disc over the area to be shrunk. Works great on small areas, as ALL you are doing is heating the metal...Eric

Thanks, I'll try that.

I am at about 90% with the metal work on the drivers side 1/4. Wife was out, so I spent a good solid 4 hours tonight. I am really happy with the way the quarter panel turned out. I gapped the door at the 1/4, then decided to tackle the passenger side.

The panel to door fit on that side is better, but the door is sitting nearly 1/4" forward from where it should be. I decided "screw-it" I'll regret not fixing it, so I ground the lesser amount of bondo off of the 1/4 at the door gap and went to work. I used the shrinking disc to warm up the metal and move sections of the flange back.

Probably not the best way of doing it, but I'll go to work dollying and shrinking the panel back to fit the door, while removing any bondo.

I wish I simply would have done all this work myself to start with.

Oh well live and learn

11-02-2006 06:41 PM

sevt_chevelle

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripped

After less than stellare success, I tried heating the metal with the shrinking disc, then while it was warm/hot I used two dollys to persuade the metal to go where I wanted. It actually worked fairly well.

Thanks for the tips

I have used that process before with great results. Use the disc to warm up the metal then can move that metal around that didnt want to move before.

If you are finding that disc is too big for that area take a small 3in rolec grinding disc and ground that disc smooth on some scrap metal. Then run that disc over the area to be shrunk. Works great on small areas, as ALL you are doing is heating the metal...Eric

11-01-2006 11:44 PM

Ripped

A couple pics

I made a little more progress tonight.

One of the difficulties I was having, when shrinking inside the scallop, as it tightened the metal, it was changing the slope of the ramps going in and out of the scallop.

After less than stellare success, I tried heating the metal with the shrinking disc, then while it was warm/hot I used two dollys to persuade the metal to go where I wanted. It actually worked fairly well.

I think I have about another 4-5 nights work to get everything exact, where I can use an absolute minimum amout of filler.

Thanks for the tips

11-01-2006 07:57 PM

JoshW

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripped

I have been working with the shrinking disc.
Things are going okay, and I am learning.

What I was wondering; If I quench the metal on the reverse side, will it shrink out? or do I need to stretch the metal with a hammer and dolly?

Shrinking is just shrinking. Which side you cool doesn't matter. It will go in or out depending on the shape you're working with.. But the key is the change in surface area you're talking about.

How much of a dent are we talking? If it's very shallow, there could be a low spot because the metal is over-shrunk, or because it's stretched. Can you push it from behind and have it pop out into a bump, then go back like an "oil can"?

If so, i'd guess it probably needs more shrinking. If you can't push it back out, it may be overshrunk and need to be worked on dolly to stretch it a bit. But don't do that until you're sure that that is what it needs.

A little light sanding with some sandpaper on a flat block can show what's going on, by highlighting high areas. A stretched dent will look different, it will have a high ring around it. A shrinking disk would fix that right up.

Photos might help.

--Josh

11-01-2006 07:49 PM

baddbob

quench on the same side, if you shrink it too far and take to much of the crown out of the panel you'll need to hammer some crown back in. Sometimes you can use a rubber mallet or plastic mallet or a wooden mallet so you don't get any hammer marks.

11-01-2006 06:21 PM

lowstreet

what are you working on?

11-01-2006 06:18 PM

Ripped

Can I reverse shrink, by doing this?

I have been working with the shrinking disc.
Things are going okay, and I am learning.

What I was wondering; If I quench the metal on the reverse side, will it shrink out? or do I need to stretch the metal with a hammer and dolly?

Normally I have been quenching the metal on the same side as I heat on to shrink down.

anyway, any tips appreaciated... I just don't want to beat on this panel if I don't have to