An Insider’s Guide to Philadelphia

While we Philadelphians might be known for our aggressive sports fandom and proclivity toward a steak “whiz wit” on a fresh Amoroso roll, the City of Brotherly Love offers so much more. With the largest collection of Rodin sculptures outside of Paris, and one of the most lauded orchestras in the country—not to mention the “best pizza in America” (more on that later)—Philly is an underappreciated cultural hot spot. From gorgeously curated specialty shops and an electric food scene, to an impressive public collection of Picassos and a vast library of American history, this town, my hometown, is a place worth visiting. Below, the best places to stay, see, shop, and eat in the 215.

Where to StayA bevy of options both new and old abound when it comes to lodging in Philly. Lokal Hotel, an up-and-coming design-driven spot located in the heart of historic Old City, offers only six suites. Each room is highly curated to the Philadelphian experience with locally sourced artisan goods; staying here feels like stealing away for a few nights at a chic friend of a friend’s on holiday. Hotel Palomar is another eclectic (and eco-friendly) offering, housed in a former 1920s Art Deco building just blocks from Rittenhouse Square. Its sister spot, Hotel Monaco, is another funkily outfitted space with great service situated not far from Lokal in the historic district—close to the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, and the Betsy Ross House. It also happens to be pet friendly, so Fido can run up those Rocky steps with you too, if you feel so inclined. In search of luxe five-star glamour? The recently restored Rittenhouse Hotel and Spa has been a mainstay in the area since the dawn of time, with exceptional service and a delectable massage menu to boot.

What to SeeYou can’t tackle all that Philly has to offer in 48 hours; there’s just too much to do. On the museum front, the recently relocated Barnes Foundation boasts one of the most impressive collections of Impressionist, Post-Impressionist, and early modern paintings in the world. Including significant works by Renoir, Cézanne, Matisse, and Rousseau, the Center City campus, built in 2012, is a must-see. Equally as special is the arboretum located at the Barnes’s original home in Merion, Pennsylvania, nestled in the heart of Philadelphia’s suburban Main Line. Similarly, the Rodin Museum and Philadelphia Museum of Art (PMA) offer exceptional exhibits and historic pieces, including The Thinker, the famous bronze Rodin sculpture. Be sure to walk down to Boathouse Row, behind the PMA. Particularly in the springtime, when crew season is in full swing, it’s a perfect spot for a picnic.

If you’re visiting during a temperate month, go to Chanticleer Garden, a stunning oasis located in Wayne, Pennsylvania. It’s set on the grounds of the former Rosengarten estate and was once deemed ”America’s most inspiring garden” by Garden Design. The Morris Arboretum, owned and operated by the University of Pennsylvania in Lafayette Hill, is another family-friendly outdoor favorite. The Franklin Institute is an ideal experience for science nerds, perfect for both curious children and adults alike, and the highly acclaimed Philadelphia Orchestra, located inside the architecturally important Kimmel Center designed by Rafael Vinoly, is an out-of-body experience for the aurally inclined.

Where to ShopRikumo is arguably the most lauded of boutique stores in all of Philadelphia. Helmed by husband-and-wife team Kaz and Yuka Morihata, Rikumo brings the most gorgeous Japanese textiles, ceramics, teas, and more to a tiny, light-filled shop on Walnut Street. (They offer a pretty extensive selection online too if you aren’t planning on visiting anytime soon.) Meadowsweet Mercantile in Old City does vintage best, offering a highly curated selection of worn denim and concert tees paired with simply understated home decor and thoughtful gifts, while city staples Joan Shepp and Knit Wit have been offering luxury brands and sportswear for more than 40 years.

In the interiors department, Conversion on Third Street in Old City is a Brooklyn fever-dream come to life. An eclectic offering of new and reclaimed furniture mixed with varied kitchen decor and accoutrements shows off the best of Philly’s handmade scene. You can even make a custom piece here if inspiration strikes. Select Shop 215, located just across the street, is a delightfully curated home goods space carrying everything from palo santo incense and unique fragrances to notebooks, paper goods, and prints ready to be framed. Ulises, an art bookstore located in the North Philly area of Fishtown, is part store and part venue, with selected readings, signings, and events held in the minimal, chic space. On the other end of the spectrum, Terrain in Glen Mills and the Little House Shop in Wayne offer the best of old-school Main Line decor: Think Katharine Hepburn in The Philadelphia Story. English garden planters, charming home decor items, and a bevy of plants, flowers, and trees can be found at the former, whereas Scalamandré pillows, sets of vintage silver, and elevated luxe essentials like custom-monogrammed Matouk towels take residence at the latter.

What to EatArguably saving the best for last, Philly is, at its heart, a food town. Home of famed restaurateurs like Marc Vetri (of the perennially perfect Vetri) and Stephen Starr (of Buddakan, among others), not to mention countless beloved BYOBs, the burgeoning community of chefs has made Philly a veritable contender on the list of best food cities in America.

The old school Palizzi Social Club in South Philly, originally founded in 1918, is a red sauce joint done right, and “the best pizza in America” (according to Bon Appétit) can be found at Pizzeria Beddia. But while the Italian American culinary roots run deep in Philadelphia, it’s not only veal piccata and spaghetti and meatballs: The immigrant experience is at the soul of dining in Philly, where an amalgamation of different cultures, eras, and flavors comes together to create culinary magic. Zahav and Dizengoff, two Israeli restaurants helmed by Chef Michael Solomonov, boast hummus so airy you’ll feel as if you’ve landed on a za’atar-seasoned cloud, while Nam Phuong and Café Diem offer up some of the best Vietnamese in the tristate area.

If it’s carbs you’re craving, Hungry Pigeon and High Street on Market rule the artisan bread and pastry game, while Di Bruno Bros., a speciality store on Chestnut Street, reigns supreme in the meat and cheese arena. For good old-fashioned comfort food, the chocolate chip cookies and matzo ball soup at the Famous 4th Street Delicatessen on Fourth and Bainbridge can’t be beat; neither can the fried chicken at Federal Donuts, the ice cream sundaes at Franklin Fountain, or the extensive brunch menu at Honey’s. Lastly, you’ll certainly need some of that famous Philly coffee to power you through your stay: Hit up homebred pride and joy La Colombe to get it straight from the source, or Rival Bros. Coffee for a more down-to-earth experience with your morning (or afternoon) cup of joe.