New to Motor biking, What kit is best??

Hey, Ive definately decided to build a motor bicycle and I know every new guy asks this but which kit is best to get for power and for the money? Ive been researching for a few weeks now and have been told that raw motors is the best motor for power. Im going tomorrow to a local bike shop to look at a few different bikes but would really like a beach cruiser because i like the look. Ive looked at buying a single speed huffy beach cruiser from walmart but have heard that they often cause complications, is that true? I was gonna go with the 80/60cc engine too. I have also been in contact with a couple people who said that they put a boygofast motor on huffy beach cruiser from Walmart without problems, does anybody have any suggestions?? i have about an 850 dollar budget, will that be enough? and i also have a few questions about what most kits come with, do they come with rubber spacers and stuff? or do I have to buy those seperately. also ive been told to purchase a seperate sprocket about a 38 tooth to acquire maximum speed, any other suggestions? Thanks please help!

With that budget you could afford a better bike than the Walmart quality ones. This pays off, trust me, though many Walmart bikes end up as good conversions. I'd recomment the Grubee GT1 bike (Check Pirate Cycles, one of our sponsors). It's got many "Must haves" built right in like front and rear brakes and a "direct to hub" drive system instead of the "Rag joint" used in the kits. If you go with another bike, spend the money to get a hub adapter and toss the Rag Joint sprocket. I've built four of these bikes and the biggest problem always seems to be that rag joint killing the spokes over time.

All my bikes use 2.25" x 26" tires and I've never had a problem with chain clearance, though I admit it can be close at times.

So, in summation, plan on a bike that either has, or can be converted to use standard front and rear brakes (disc, cantilever, v-brake) as the coaster brake on 1 speed cruisers is NOT sufficient for the speed of these motors. Replace the rag joint sprocket or better yet, don't even use it in the first place. Front suspension is very nice, like the "mountian bike" style on the GT1 or a springer fork, which just looks kewl.

One last thing...be prepared to become an addict. Welcome to the club!

I agree, somewhat, with AslansMonkey. With that budget I would visit a local bike shop and look at the used bike selection.

I wouldn't say anything about putting a motor on the bike unless you already know they are cool with motorized bikes. I would find a nice old school steel framed mtn. bike with front suspension. I would be willing to spend about 200 on the bike.

These are the things that I do, I see that others such as the seals (which I've never had one go bad) mentioned. All these mods or replacements are most likely less then $50.00. Choose what works for you, ignore the rest, but here you have them.

1. Unpack engine
2. Check for any missing parts
3. Remove head
4. Mill head (flat glass and 230 (or finer) grit sand paper. Rub gasket surface to insure it is flat. Check the cylinder also.
5. Tap cylinder stud holes to insure they are taped to the bottom.
6. Discard all studs and nuts.
7. Replace studs with Metric 8.8 (US Grade 5) Replace nuts with locking nuts. 8mm studs are either 1.0 or 1.25 thread, 6mm studs are 1.0 thread. 8mmX1.0 is not common, but I have 1 engine with them.
8. Replace spark plug with a NGK or the like.
9. Replace spark plug wire and boot (check with lawnmower supply) or rob from old lawnmower. Use wire core lead.
10. Mount the engine properly, no gaps between the bike tubes and engine mounts.Engine Mounting pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
11. Torque 8mm to 150 to 200 INCH POUNDS
12. Torque 6mm to 60-70 INCH POUNDS
13. I install cylinder studs with lock tite, and let set overnight
14. I coat the head gasket with Copper Kote
15. May need to bend exhaust pipe for crank or frame clearance. Recommend using heat.
16. Remove or cap magneto white wire off.
17. Re solder blue wire on magneto.
18. Make sure all wires have a good connection and use tape or better yet heat shrink.
19. Hook up kill wires AFTER you get engine running.
20. Try not to drill holes in the bike frame.
21. Do away with the clutch cable routing; there are a number of options.Homemade Mods pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
If you want to make yourself, PM me and I’ll give you a material list.
22. On my kit the rag joint had gauge (Metric) 8.8 bolts, If not replace them. I replaced the nuts with lock nuts. (I will trade your locking nuts for your stock nuts). I use them making my clutch roller.
23. I sealed the wires coming from the magneto out of the engine with RTV.
24. Place a “O” ring in the carburetor throat.
25. Some say replace the axle with a better one. Never had a axle bend on me.
26. Use thin wire (I use Stainless safety wire), and wrap around the idle screw and secure to the carburetor. http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/Ron-Becker/Homemade Mods/?action=view&current=MVC-003F.jpg
27. For coaster brakes…Some say trim the cap, but I don't like it.‪Bearing cap mod‬&rlm; - YouTube or a file of sorts can be used.
I wouldn't buy a thing from BGF or luckyearlybird (related)...NOTHING

From what I have seen the shifter kit is no more difficult to install than the engine. Also the shift kit comes with MUCH better install instructions. Yes, it allows you to use the bikes gears with the motor and you can still pedal the bike if needed.