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LONG-TERM / ALL-WEATHER FIREARMS PROTECTION

August 23, 2019

LONG-TERM / ALL-WEATHER FIREARMS PROTECTIONMike “The Guru” Whitlock

THE #1 CAUSE OF RUST, CORROSION, SURFACE PITTING, DULL / OXIDIZED BLUE (EXTERNALLY OR INSIDE THE BARREL) IS “OWNER NEGLECT” !!!!!!! BLUED-CARBON STEELS ARE THE MOST BEAUTIFUL TO BEHOLD, BUT THEY ARE ALSO THE MOST DIFFICULT TO MAINTAIN & OFFER THE LEAST AMOUNT OF SURFACE PROTECTION !!!! AT SOMETIME IN THE FUTURE, I WILL BE REVIEWING SEVERAL OF THE MOST “HIGH-TECH SURFACE FINISHES” AVAILABLE ON PLANET EARTH.

THIS CAN BE CAUSED BY DAMP / IMPROPER STORAGE CONDITIONS, STORAGE CASES WHICH ARE NOT “BREATHABLE”, LACK OF MOISTURE ABSORBING PRODUCTS INSIDE STORAGE SAFES, EXPOSURE TO HARSH WEATHER CONDITIONS, CONTACT WITH SWEAT & SKIN OILS, & GENERAL “OXIDATION” FROM EXPOSURE TO THE ATMOSPHERE.

BLUED FINISH: THESE ARE THE MOST COMMON FINISH APPLIED TO FIREARMS. IT OFFERS LOTS OF “BLING”, BUT ONLY IF THE BASE METAL HAS BEEN HIGHLY-POLISHED (THINK “COLT ROYAL BLUE” & PRE-WW-2 WINCHESTERS, & S&W REVOLVERS) BEFORE BEING SUBMERGED IN THAT BATH OF HOT BLUING SALTS. BLUE LOOKS REALLY PRETTY & SPARKLY, BUT PROVIDES ZERO PROTECTION TO THE METAL’S SURFACE, FROM HARMFUL CONTAMINANTS. BLUING A FIREARM, IS CHEMICALLY A “CONTROLLED RUSTING PROCESS” AND IT ONLY WORKS ON METALS CONTAINING “FERROUS OXIDE” PROPERTIES.

BLUED SURFACES BECOME DULL & LIFE-LESS, PRIMARILY BECAUSE OF EXPOSURE TO THE OXYGEN IN THE ATMOSPHERE—“OXIDATION” !!!!!!!!!! WHAT MUST BE DONE, IS TO KEEP THE O2 FROM MAKING CONTACT WITH THE METAL’S SURFACE. A THIN COAT OF OIL IS GOOD, BUT IT WIPES OFF TOO EASILY & THUS DOES NOT PROVIDE LONG-TERM PROTECTION. WELL NEVER FEAR !!!! YOUR PERSONAL “GURU” IS HERE TO TEACH YOU THE METHOD, TO HALT THE MADNESS AT LEAST FOR A VERY, VERY LONG TIME…………

NOTE: OXIDATION IS BEST DESCRIBED, AS THE ORIGINAL HI-POLISH HAS BECOME “FADED / DULL / LIFE-LESS” IN IT’S APPEARANCE. IF YOUR FIREARM EXITED THE FACTORY WITH A “NON-REFLECTIVE MATTE FINISH”, IT ALSO NEEDS A PERIODIC DEEP-CLEANING TO MAINTAIN IT’S ORIGINAL APPEARANCE.

TODAY, WE WILL REVIEW THE SIMPLE TECHNIQUE I HAVE USED FOR MANY YEARS & HAVE SHARED WITH THOSE PERSONS, WHO HAVE BEEN WILLING TO SIT @ MY BENCH, TAKE NOTES, & ASK QUESTIONS. THIS GENERALLY OCCURS, AFTER AN EXPENSIVE “DETAIL, STRIP, CLEAN, & POLISH” HAS BEEN DONE, ON GRAND-DADDY’S “LEFEVER NITRO-SPECIAL D/B SCATTERGUN”……………….

STEP #3—TEAR OFF A PIECE OF THE WOOL & MOISTEN IT WITH A FEW DROPS OF “MMO”. USE THE PAD TO LIGHTLY SCRUB THE AREA IN QUESTION. THIS WILL REMOVE THE RUST, CORROSION, & DULL BLUING, BUT WILL NOT HARM THE BLUE COLOR !!!!!!!

THIS STEP WILL NOT REMOVE ANY PITS OR SCRATCHES.

STEP #4—SET THE PAD DOWN, GRAB A SHEET OF CLEAN PAPER TOWEL, OR A CLEAN, SOFT TERRY-CLOTH RAG. USE THIS TO WIPE OFF ALL THE “YUK” BEING RELEASED FROM THE METAL’S SURFACE. HERE COMES THE HARD PART: STARE FOR A LONG TIME @ THAT FILTHY RAG & SAY TO YOURSELF 3 TIMES: “I AM GUILTY OF FAILURE TO PROPERLY MAINTAIN MY FIREARM”—HURTS, HUH ???

STEP #5—KEEP TURNING THE TOWEL OR USE ANOTHER SHEET OF PAPER TOWEL & KEEP WIPING UNTIL NO MORE DISCOLORATION APPEARS ON THE TOWEL. TAKE A FEW MOMENTS TO ADMIRE THAT GORGEOUS BLUED SURFACE OR THAT RICH LOOKING “DULL MATTE FINISH” SOME FOLKS PREFER.

OK, THE METAL IS NOW BOTH CLEANED & POLISHED. TIME TO APPLY THE PROTECTANT LAST…………..

STEP #7—GRAB A BOTTLE OF YOUR FAVORITE “LIQUID, NON-ABRASIVE, CLEAR-COAT-SAFE” AUTO BODY POLISH & SHAKE WELL !!!! GRAB A SMALL PIECE OF CLEAN COTTON TOWEL & WRAP IT AROUND THE TIP OF YOUR FINGER (S) & APPLY A SMALL AMOUNT TO YOUR FINGER-TIP.

STEP #8—USE WHATEVER HAND MOTION YOU CHOOSE & APPLY A WELL RUBBED, THIN COAT OF POLISH TO THE METAL. APPLY & ALLOW TIME FOR IT TO DRY COMPLETELY TO A HAZE. USE ANOTHER SOFT CLOTH & BUFF OFF THE DRIED POLISH, SAME AS YOU WOULD ON YOUR AUTO / MOTORCYCLE. STEP BACK & ENJOY GAZING ON THE RESULTS OF ALL THIS EFFORT—WOW !!!!!!!

( GURU’S FAVORITE LIQUID AUTO BODY POLISH, FOR YOUR GUNS & YOUR AUTO: “NU-FINISH”—IT IS NOT A WAX, BUT A MAN-MADE SYNTHETIC POLYMER & WILL PROTECT THE SURFACE MUCH LONGER THAN PLAIN WAX)

THE METAL’S SURFACE WILL APPEAR TO BE “OILY / WET” BUT IT IS TOTALLY DRY TO THE TOUCH & WILL NOT ATTRACT DUST, DIRT, WATER, OR FINGER-PRINTS !!!! ONE FINAL TIP, BEFORE I CLOSE OUT THIS “NOVEL”—DO EVERYTHING IN STEPS 1-8, BUT THIS TIME DO IT INSIDE THE BORE OF YOUR FIREARMS BARREL !!!!!!!!! APPLY THE POLYMER SEALER INSIDE EACH CHAMBER OF YOUR REVOLVERS CYLINDER, MAGAZINES (TUBULAR / BOX / INTERNAL) & THE OUTSIDE OF THE SCOPE !!!!!!!!!!!

WOODEN STOCKS: THEY WILL ALSO NEED SOME “TLC”, BUT ONLY IF THE FINAL FINISH IS A “CLASSIC HAND-RUBBED OIL”

THIS IS NOT GOING TO BE A “HOW TO REFINISH THE WOOD”, BUT JUST TO BRING BACK THE DULLED ORIGINAL FINISH………….

STEP #2—PURCHASE A BOTTLE OF “LEMON-OIL FURNITURE POLISH” FROM YOUR FAVORITE LOCAL STORE & ANOTHER PIECE OF THE STEEL-WOOL. MOISTEN THE WOOL WITH A FEW DROPS OF THE POLISH & BEGIN TO RUB THE STOCK’S SURFACE WITH MODERATE HAND PRESSURE. YOUR NOT TRYING TO “STRIP THE OLD FINISH”, BUT JUST TO TAKE OFF THE OXIDIZED TOP LAYER.

STEP #3—WIPE OFF THE AREAS YOU JUST “WOOLED” WITH ANOTHER SHEET OF PAPER TOWEL / COTTON TERRY-CLOTH TOWEL. CONTINUE TO WIPE UNTIL ALL THE LEMON OIL HAS BEEN REMOVED.

CONGRATULATIONS, YOU HAVE JUST CROSSED THE FINISH-LINE !!!!!!!! PLACE THAT FIREARM BACK INSIDE YOUR GUN-SAFE & CLOSE THE DOOR. FETCH A BOTTLE / CAN, YOU FAVORITE “ADULT BEVERAGE” FROM THE FRIDGE, A CAN OF MIXED-NUTS, & PLOP-DOWN ON THE COUCH AND WATCH YOUR FAVORITE T.V. SHOW—-WELL DONE, OLD CHAP !!!!!!!!!

ANY QUESTIONS FROM THE CLASS ATTENDEES ?????? GOOD, YOU ARE HEREBY DISMISSED & CARRY ON—OOORAH !!!!