Saturday, May 24, 2008

Hardboiled Redux/Boulder Canyon Bouldering Guide

Back up the canyon this morning in semi-arctic conditions. A real thrash across the river ferrying three full size pads and two accessory pads. Owing to cool temps and brisk wind I took forever to warm up. On the lower section, I discovered that the heelhook beta for the crux move seems pretty essential now that the right hand edge/pinch has eroded. The first move and the slap for the lip were not really an issue. The new Asana pad was really helpful since it has really hard foam that negates the very uneven landing.

Talk to Frenchie about an obscure area he developed on the north side of the road. I believe JJ got a full tour of the area. I subsequently hiked up there and found some of the stuff too. You will want to get a tour to take pics.

did i already mention the mini guide on frb's "what's new"...? i think i did mention... anyway, this should describe some of the lemaire stuff.

not sure if i put the smirk traverse and hobo boulder on there or not. have you been up that way? my mind is gone for the names of stuff on the hobo boulder, except that i remember "the peanut" and "the bambino".... ALL the names on that block were related to jen's pregnancy, as willis was developing it just after they got the news of the new addition. since this was a big deal for them, i've been fairly militant about explaining to subsequent FAists of lines on that block that will showed me lines he did on every conceivable feature/hold/and blank space well before others ventured up there. bottom line: if will even remembers what that stuff's called, his FA names hold.

also, schulte did a few variations on the smirk traverse, i believe. 8a.nu that shiz. i also have some of the names on my 8spray.spew card

sockie - smirk traverse area and hobo boulder are not on frb's what's new section. this is why I posted what I did. I have no clue what the mileage is, etc. and FWIW, I could not give a satisfactory tour of the area.