Won't turn on, doesn't respond to Power button at all.

Confirmed I'm getting 12V, and there is a green LED inside on the video board that is lit. I'm not talking about the Power LED on the front. Pressing the power button does nothing. No sounds, no signs of any kind.
No fishy or burnt smells, nothing physical that I can see. Cables all plugged in, and I went ahead and reseated them.

Hey, I have exactly the same problem, anybody got a potential solution????

----------------Hello guys and girls,

A friend of my just finished moving to the new apartment, but since hewas not able to move everything to the new apartment, I was given thisViewsonic monitor.

However, upon trying to power on the monitor, I only found out that themonitor would not power on, I know the external power brick to the LCDpanel works, because when I plug in the plug into the power strip,there was a spark, and the green led light is also lit when plugged in,but the monitor would not power on, no matter how many times I pressthe power button, any insights on what could be the problem with themonitor??

P.S I wouldn't mind opening up the panel, although it would definitelybe better to at least get an idea of where to start once I get themonitor opened up....

Any helps are welcome

Thanks

-Joe------------------

Hey, I have exactly the same problem, anybody got a potential solution????

----------------Hello guys and girls,

A friend of my just finished moving to the new apartment, but since he
was not able to move everything to the new apartment, I was given this
Viewsonic monitor.

However, upon trying to power on the monitor, I only found out that the
monitor would not power on, I know the external power brick to the LCD
panel works, because when I plug in the plug into the power strip,
there was a spark, and the green led light is also lit when plugged in,
but the monitor would not power on, no matter how many times I press
the power button, any insights on what could be the problem with the
monitor??

P.S I wouldn't mind opening up the panel, although it would definitely
be better to at least get an idea of where to start once I get the
monitor opened up....

Anonymous

I had a similar problem with a Westinghouse 19" LCD. Had left power on
while running errands, but came home to a black screen. I could cycle
the power and see the desktop image but it would go black after 2-3
seconds.

Out of curiosity, after cycling the power, I immediately pressed the
monitor settings button, and was able to get into the menu . . ., no
black out . . . I changed the brightness setting and crossed my fingers
while I let the setting menu time out . . ., lo and behold, it's
working again.

It is impossible to see defective components visualy, unless there was a serious burn-up or something like that.

Without at least a DVM you cannot even verify if the power supply is functioning properly!!!

There is no support at the component level service for these monitors. The service tech will change the main input board to solve the fault that you have. If the back plane lamps are failed, he will change the power supply for the back plane lamps. In some of these models, the back plane lamps are not replaceable. This means that the screen would have to be replaced.

If you want to service the monitor the non supported way, call Viewsonic and see if they will sell you a copy of the detailed schematics, and engineering data for the boards. Most monitor companies will not sell any schematics or service information to no authorized contractors for their service.

If you can have the details, get a digital scope, a DVM, a logic analyser, and start troubleshooting according to the service manual. This can involve hours of work to figure out the fault. Then you will have the task of seeing if Viewsonic will sell any of their proprietory EPROM's or processor type parts.

This is why when the warranty is finished on these monitors, they are not worth to send back for service. The shipping cost, plus the parts and labour can come out to more than the monitor is worth!

Check the power cable. If it uses a power brick style assembly (like a laptop) it may need to be replaced. Some power bricks can break a wire at the base of the brick just enough that it causes a short in the system and shuts down the power flow.

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Draw a box over the problem!!

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Related Questions:

You should start with Rotary switch on "Maintenance Bypass" position and Qf1 open.
Turn Rotary Sw to "Test" position and wait for self test to execute and UPS to turn on.
Once you get the Yellow lamp lit, it is asking for QF1 to close
Once closng QF1, if green LED is lit, turn UPS off by pressing gray button until it ask for confirmation, select Yes and press Return.
Turn Rotary Sw to Normal position, press On button and the green LED will illuminate.
If, after closing QF1, the green LED didn`t lit, turn Rotary Sw to Normal, press On button and wait for green LED to lit.

Is the standby led on the front lit. If not likely the problem is with power supply. If the standby led is on does it go off when the power button is pressed? Does the led blink. If so count the blinks and get back. The power supply provides an standby voltage to the main board. If the standby led is lit then this voltage is present. When the power button is pressed the micro sends a turn on voltage to the power board. Normally the power supply will respond and all other voltages needed to operate the set will come up. if a component is shorted the micro will not turn on the power board and will usually give a failure code via the standby led.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Thermal Fuse
If the dishwasher won't start the thermal
fuse might have blown. The thermal fuse helps to prevent damage to the
dishwasher by turning off power so that it doesn't overheat. Once blown,
the thermal fuse will have to be replaced for the dishwasher to work. Door Switch
The door switch, or switches, are sometimes
called interlock switches. The door switch prevents the dishwasher from
running while the door is open. If the dishwasher won't start, the
switch or switches might be defective. To access the door switches,
remove the control panel or inside door panel - depending on the model.
They can be tested for continuity.

Main Control Board
The main control board provides power to
nearly every component of the dishwasher. If the dishwasher won't start
the main control board might be defective. YOU should first check for
more common parts. Many times control boards are replaced unnecessarily
because the problem was not diagnosed properly. Touchpad and Control Panel
If the touchpad is defective, the control
board might not get the signal for the selections made. If the
dishwasher won't start and the display doesn't seem to change properly
when the buttons are pressed, the touchpad might need to be replaced. On
some models the touchpad and control panel are sold together and will
need to be replaced at the same time.

Touchpad
If the touchpad is defective, the control
board might not get the signal for the selections made. If the
dishwasher won't start and the display doesn't seem to change properly
when the buttons are pressed, the touchpad might need to be replaced.

Timer
The timer allows power to flow to the proper
parts at the proper times. If the dishwasher won't start, the timer
might be defective. Keep in mind that timers are often misdiagnosed as
the cause of a problem. Check other components first before replacing
the timer.

Please see the video with patience and carefully. you nee basic tools+Dvom

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TquYcOzGIw4&feature=relatedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9G4MZh8JO2Qhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7qJrRbdfBchttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIIxoPtvhy8The SCR lower board is designed with diagnostic LED lights. The LED's are color coded according totheir specific function. Green indicates a properly operating treadmill; the green lights should alwaysbe ON when power is supplied to the treadmill. Yellow indicates a treadmill function. Red indicates atreadmill malfunction. Here is a list of each LED and what it signifies:MOTOR (yellow) - The MOTOR LED illuminates when dc (direct current) voltage is sent to the drivemotor. The LED gets brighter when the dc output is increased.RLC (yellow) - The RLC (R = Reactance / L = Inductance / C = Capacitance) LED illuminates whenthe filtering system is properly working. The filtering system includes the capacitor and filter choke. Ifthere is a short in either component then the RLC light will not come on.DN & UP (yellow) - The DN and UP LED lights tell us if the elevation DN and UP relays arefunctioning properly. When the LED lights, it tells us that the relay has energized and is sending highvoltage (110vac or 220vac) to the elevation motor.AC PWR (green) - The AC PWR (Alternating Current Power) illuminates when AC line voltage isdelivered to the treadmill. It then passes through the in-line fuse (110)/s(220) and lights the AC PWRLED.+12V (green) - When the proper AC voltage is delivered to the treadmill, passes through the in-linefuse/s, through the full wave bridge rectifier (changes AC to DC), through the transformer (steps down

DC to +12vdc) then the +12V LED lights.This the board LED, who control the signal for Main Motor+Elevation Motor. You must see, the LED DN+ UP( both will be Lit) in any position down or Up.
With this you will fix it.

I will help you.please watch the videos, and use basic tools , patience , and carefully.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TquYcOzGIw4&feature=relatedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9G4MZh8JO2Qhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7qJrRbdfBchttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIIxoPtvhy8The SCR lower board is designed with diagnostic LED lights. The LED's are color coded according totheir specific function. Green indicates a properly operating treadmill; the green lights should alwaysbe ON when power is supplied to the treadmill. Yellow indicates a treadmill function. Red indicates atreadmill malfunction. Here is a list of each LED and what it signifies:MOTOR (yellow) - The MOTOR LED illuminates when dc (direct current) voltage is sent to the drivemotor. The LED gets brighter when the dc output is increased.RLC (yellow) - The RLC (R = Reactance / L = Inductance / C = Capacitance) LED illuminates whenthe filtering system is properly working. The filtering system includes the capacitor and filter choke. Ifthere is a short in either component then the RLC light will not come on.DN & UP (yellow) - The DN and UP LED lights tell us if the elevation DN and UP relays arefunctioning properly. When the LED lights, it tells us that the relay has energized and is sending highvoltage (110vac or 220vac) to the elevation motor.AC PWR (green) - The AC PWR (Alternating Current Power) illuminates when AC line voltage isdelivered to the treadmill. It then passes through the in-line fuse (110)/s(220) and lights the AC PWRLED.+12V (green) - When the proper AC voltage is delivered to the treadmill, passes through the in-linefuse/s, through the full wave bridge rectifier (changes AC to DC), through the transformer (steps down

DC to +12vdc) then the +12V LED lights.This the board LED, who control the signal for Main Motor+Elevation Motor. You must see, the LED DN+ UP( both will be Lit) in any position down or Up.
With this you will fix it.

hi welcome to fixya
i want to clarify first the problem sir so as of now the problem with your tv won't power on then you are using again the old main board is that right ? when you use the new replacement main board the tv is functioning will the only problem is that the HDMI / DVI inputs doesn't work. and now you encountered power supply problem like won't start up or something that cut the supply in which the stand by indicator is turn off so as my idea it has a problem with the old board. but before you come up with the board making sure all the connectors coming from the power supply is properly connected to the main board as will as flexible and lvds cable for the T-con board is properly inserted.just let me know if is that what you are asking for so i can give you additional solution thanks for consulting the fixya.

not a solution but i have a 50gx30b doing something similar, no picture no sound, 3 green leds are lit up on the main board and then one red led lit up also on main board, front panel red led stays on for about 30 -50 seconds and then it all shuts off, I then have to unplug and replug to get the same results.