What is your product of choice for 1st round (fert + pre, pre only, etc).
AND
Why do you keep going with it year after year OR why are you switching it up this season?

I have been using 17-0-0 with .28 prodiamine and while I am fairly satisfied with crab control, the fert end of things just does not provide a super quality green up. I realize some of the green up may be dictated by what is applied late fall, so perhaps that is my issue??

I use 19-0-0 with Team Pro or 19-0-0 with dimension. I switch every 2 years on long terms just to change the chemical. Truthfully I don't know if it is very effective overall. I don't have huge crab issues on any of my lawns so maybe it does work. I find crab later in the summer but that is spot sprayed and contained.

I find that for green up I have better luck with fert+Fe over the 2 3rd and some props 4th application. It definately stays green waaaay into the early winter and has the quickest green up in the spring. I think you knid of answered your question. Give the iron a try. Its a little tricky if you arent very consistent with your apps and you have to watch for staining on hard surfaces but I really like the results and so do my customers.

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I use Andersons Dimension 18-0-4 first round. I split ap my preemerge so it goes down the 3rd round also. Not 100% certain that will be this years first round yet. If I can change, depending on product at supplier, I will. I change my chemistry, all products, every couple years to help with resistance.

I have always used Fert + Dimension. Typically Lesco brand but went with Andersons last year based on price. On CG problematic lawns (determined yearly) and areas like next to roadways, I always apply again on 2nd or 3rd round. That has been the ticket for me and controlling CG for the most part. I carry Solitare in a sprayer to control any breakthrough later in the year. I like it because I can also take out nutsedge with it which seems to be becoming the number one enemy anymore!

The lawns always look good in health and color, but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with what preventer one is using. As you mentioned, that would be based more on late fall fertilizing according to my understanding. A good dose of iron would be helpful as someone has mentioned, but I know of no preventers that have iron in them. It might be too early for that anyway. Anyone else?

Back at you DA, I remember you debating whether to go back to Momentum for weed control. What have you decided?

Still kicking it around fox. I like tryclopyr in the formulation. TZone is great but much more expensive. Another option is reg 3 way trimec + turflon ester (triclopyr) so I am looking into that as well.

Another question, with y'all's first round, what % slow N do you use? I am thinking of going just straight mineral with my 17-0-0 product with prodiamine. Not putting on much N anyway, and could save a few bucks a bag.

So if we are in Northwest Ohio. Any suggestions for a 5 application season?

Might want to make your own thread. Thats pretty much considered hijacking a thread, not that you meant to but there is to much to say about it.

I use AM on round 1. but only put down .5 lbs N/a. I agree that the color comes from the late fall app. I put a fert with fe down then, but I am not sure how effective the iron actually is after a few weeks.

Iron is pretty short lived. I think it's been discussed on here about the actual effectiveness of iron on dry fertilzer. Anyone have any side by side comparisons on whether a 2%fe actually makes a noticeable difference in green/green up? Riggle will have to do a micro-research plot. DA, have you looked into a blend containing ammonium sulfate. AMS has a fast reponse at lower soil temps and supplies sulfur which can help with greening. It is less susceptible to volatilization and leaching than urea as well. Check your ph though. We typically have a little higher ph where I am. I've found earlier greenup to be related to grass variety and soil types as well. I've seen lawns that don't get any fertilizer green up before fertilized one, but I know some of them have better soil and newer grass varieties.

Iron is pretty short lived. I think it's been discussed on here about the actual effectiveness of iron on dry fertilzer. Anyone have any side by side comparisons on whether a 2%fe actually makes a noticeable difference in green/green up? Riggle will have to do a micro-research plot. DA, have you looked into a blend containing ammonium sulfate. AMS has a fast reponse at lower soil temps and supplies sulfur which can help with greening. It is less susceptible to volatilization and leaching than urea as well. Check your ph though. We typically have a little higher ph where I am. I've found earlier greenup to be related to grass variety and soil types as well. I've seen lawns that don't get any fertilizer green up before fertilized one, but I know some of them have better soil and newer grass varieties.

Im using a 3% iron on most apps except the app 1, and have noticed a darker green color than just a non-iron fert. The Iron green only lasts for 2 weeks or so then it kinda settles down. I have been looking into the AMS also but I am going to use it sparingly to track the results.

Iron is pretty short lived. I think it's been discussed on here about the actual effectiveness of iron on dry fertilzer. Anyone have any side by side comparisons on whether a 2%fe actually makes a noticeable difference in green/green up? Riggle will have to do a micro-research plot. DA, have you looked into a blend containing ammonium sulfate. AMS has a fast reponse at lower soil temps and supplies sulfur which can help with greening. It is less susceptible to volatilization and leaching than urea as well. Check your ph though. We typically have a little higher ph where I am. I've found earlier greenup to be related to grass variety and soil types as well. I've seen lawns that don't get any fertilizer green up before fertilized one, but I know some of them have better soil and newer grass varieties.

I'll investigate Ammonium Sulfate a little more thx.
What commercial ferts out there have this form of N in it?