I go climbing every week at a climbing gym and I would like to buy my own shoes. It's indoor climbing (hence the gym part) but we just boulder, not so much top rope it. The group I go with was planning to also go bouldering outside sometime soon, but I think my primary use would be climbing shoes meant for inside use. What shape would be best? What brands are good?
_______________________

Last edited by kaoleenaz on Sat Mar 16, 2013 4:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Basically it depends a lot on your feet, your style and your pocket.
I find most brands are good and basically the more you pay the better the quality/performance.

Get something that is comfortable but tight and does not have any dead spots or hot spots.
For bouldering velcros or slippers are convenient.
I would recommend getting a soft shoe over a stiff shoe but this is my personal preference.

Don't buy too tight, some shoes will not stretch (especially lined ones), the shoes should fit your foot closely but not crunch your toes. Get flat shoes rather than one's with a very aggressive curve to the sole. Laces give the best adjustability but take long to put on/take off. Buy cheaper shoes initially at least until you are sure that climbing is something you want, so don't rush out and buy some La Sportiva Testarossas just yet... Try every brand and model that you can.

- Different brands are made from diferent Lasts (templates) - none or better or worse, but some brands you'll just find fit your personal foot better.
- They should have a good, snug fit, bordering on tight, but they should still be comfortable. The advice from the 80's of buying 2 sizes too small has been discredited. No 'dead spots' as Garron says.
- Your first pair should be a fairly 'standard' shoe design. If in 12 months time you are still loving it and rising through the grades, then you can buy a more 'technical' or 'aggressive' shoe according to your style. In this case you will still be wanting to wear your 'training' shoes at the bouldering wall and not your nice sending shoes.
- Re your style and stiffness of shoe - most people prefer middle to soft end, so don't buy something particularly stiff for your first pair.

Remember that 9as have been sent in most of the popular brands of shoes. :-)

i dont agree with nic, any hard climber will tell u, if your shoe is too big u might aswell be wearing crocks or boots. Make sure they fit tight, shoes stretch with reason, If u can fit your foot into a shoe, then it will stretch to the shape of your foot. Ive seen people use plastic at the heel to make it easier for their foot to fit in, this is how people do it.

Ebert
if ur shoe is to small, sweat it out and they will fit nice and snug

Go try on a bunch
In my opinion, avoid Evolv as they tend to be way more uncomfortable than the others. But it depends on your personal preference.
I'd also recommend not buying a completely entry level shoe. Something in between is your best bet as it will last you longer and will perform better

Forket wrote:i dont agree with nic, any hard climber will tell u, if your shoe is too big u might aswell be wearing crocks or boots. Make sure they fit tight, shoes stretch with reason, If u can fit your foot into a shoe, then it will stretch to the shape of your foot. Ive seen people use plastic at the heel to make it easier for their foot to fit in, this is how people do it.

Ebert
if ur shoe is to small, sweat it out and they will fit nice and snug

Not all hard climbers climb with shoes that kill them.
Tight is good, but super tight is overrated.