Best banh mi

Saigon Sisters’ spiffed-up fillings, including a topnotch duck confit, made a run at the king of all Vietnamese sandwich makers. But the fresh straight-out-of-the-oven buns at Nhu Lan means they retain their crown. Plus, their #10 lemongrass tofu banh mi, which is better than most meat-larded versions of the sandwich, is so good it’ll make a carnivore consider going vegetarian.