60-MINUTE GOURMET

By Pierre Franey

Published: February 1, 1989

THE felicitous combination of rosemary and lemon is found often in northern Italian cuisine, most successfully in simple, quick veal dishes. Virtually any dish that is made with veal can be replicated with chicken breast, which is less expensive.

For the recipe here, I begin by dredging boneless, skinless chicken breasts in seasoned flour and sauteeing them in a nonstick skillet with some olive oil. Cooking time is only about four minutes per side; be extra careful to avoid overcooking.

Pour off any fat from the pan and make a quick sauce with garlic, dry white wine, lemon juice and rosemary.

This recipe works best with chopped fresh rosemary, which is widely available in winter. If you use dried rosemary cut the quantity in half because the dried has a stronger flavor. Other herbs can be added to suit indivdual tastes, like basil, thyme and parsley. The sauce requires only three minutes cooking.

A fine side dish is steamed rape (RAH-peh) with tomatoes. Rape leaves have a wonderful tart flavor and are packed with vitamin C and minerals. All they require is quick sauteeing in a nonstick skillet coated with olive oil. I like to add garlic and pepper flakes for extra flavor. Tomatoes are added to this recipe - plum tomatoes have more flavor in winter than most of those imported from the south.

1.Split the chicken breasts in half down the center. Trim them neatly to remove peripheral membrane and bits of fat.

2.Dredge the chicken all over in the flour seasoned with salt and pepper.

3.Heat the oil and butter in a heavy skillet large enough to hold the chicken breasts in one layer. Add the chicken pieces, rosemary and garlic. Cook about 4 minutes or until the pieces are nicely brown on one side. Turn and cook for 4 to 5 minutes until golden brown on the other side. Do not cover.

4.Pour off all the fat from the skillet, leaving the chicken, rosemary and garlic in the skillet. Pour in the wine and bring to a boil. Add the lemon juice and parsley. Cover closely and cook 3 minutes longer. Remove and discard the garlic cloves and serve immediately.

1.Using a small paring knife cut off and discard the bottom stalks of the rape. The tender leaves and stems plus the buds of the vegetable should be left intact. Rinse the rape well in a colander. Drain, but allow the water that clings to the leaves to remain.

2.Heat the oil in a heavy skillet or casserole with a tight-fitting lid. Add the garlic and pepper flakes and cook briefly. Do not brown. Add the rape and stir. Add the tomatoes, salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until wilted. Cover closely and let cook for about 5 minutes, turning the vegetable occasionally so it cooks evenly. Serve immediately.