Whisky. Straight, No Chaser

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Now that I've got a weekly column for the print edition of a small local weekly (40,000+ print subscribers), I've shifted to a new website. Anyone interested in reading more of me can do so there: www.joshuaelondon.com

Monday, June 20, 2011

What can I say, I've been busy... I now have another writing gig to keep me even more busy - a weekly wine and spirits column for a local print publication (30,000+ paid subscribers). I'll try and post stuff here when I have downtime, but a weekly means producing an awful lot of content.

Thursday, May 27, 2010

I'll try to get back into the swing of things soon. Meanwhile, I've been very, very busy since my last posting. I visited Scotland in the first week of Jan 2010 (it was a veritable winter-wonderland -- visited Tomatin, Glenmorangie and Balblair distilleries), I conducted a bunch of booze tastings (Scotch, Tequila, Bourbon, Scotch again, etc.), and I've written a bunch of articles for some local outlets. I'll try to post all of this soon.

lubavitch.com) Two hundred people showed up at Buckhurst Hill Chabad to watch the lightning of a 7 foot menorah built out of clear piping filled with 65 Litres of Single Malt Scotch.

Rabbi Odom Brandman, director of the Buckhurst Hill Chabad Centre ,together with his community have previously built a six-foot chocolate menorah and a menorah out of food cans. But this year, they were looking for something unique.

The menorah was built by Desmond Solomon but they needed good Scotch.

So on a recent trip to Scotland, Rabbi Brandman offered a number of distilleries the opportunity to partner with the building of the menorah.

The Tullibardine Distillery, in the famous Scottish Highlands, donated the Single Malt Scotch to fill the menorah.

The Scotch arrived in a large drum and was poured straight into the Menorah. The Menorah was designed with a tap on the main stem and L’chaim’s were “on the house” for the night.

“It was an amazing event” said Rabbi Brandman. “The Whisky itself is really nice. It's smooth, mellow and has a slightly fruity flavor”.

Guests took home miniature souvenir bottles filled with Scotch from the Menorah.

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Today Bloomberg.com posted an interesting story about investments and expectations in the Scotch Whisky trade. You can read it in situ here. Or read it below:

Whisky Makers Spend $800 Million to Age Scotch for China, India Share Business By Rodney Jefferson

Dec. 2 (Bloomberg) -- Ninety years after Johnnie Walker stopped making Scotch in Annandale, David Thomson wants to put the distillery back on the whisky map of the world.

The plant, 12 miles from where he grew up in southern Scotland, closed in 1921. With 5 million pounds ($8.3 million) in cash, Thomson plans to open it up again in 2011.

“We can make so much more of malt whisky as an industry,” said Thomson, 54, who submitted plans for local government approval on Nov. 12. “We haven’t even begun to tap into the potential interest.”

More money is being invested in whisky than at any time since the late 1960s, according to the Scotch Whisky Association in Edinburgh. The reason, producers like Diageo Plc say, is to make sure they have enough of it to serve China and India, as well as to cater to the growing demand among malt buffs.

“The Chinese have bought into Scotch whisky,” Gavin Hewitt, chief executive officer of the association, said at his office in the Scottish capital. “There’s a huge new middle class and they want to make a statement about themselves.”

Companies announced expansion plans during the past two years costing more than 500 million pounds, according to the industry group. Whisky is Scotland’s biggest export, excluding oil and gas, it said.

Ageing Process

The liquor being distilled today can’t be called Scotch whisky until it’s three years old and then often has to age for at least another seven before it’s bottled as a single malt. It also has to be made in Scotland.

The largest single investment during the past two years was by London-based Diageo, the world’s largest liquor maker and biggest producer of Scotch. Its net revenue from whisky, including top brand Johnnie Walker, rose 7 percent to 2.42 billion pounds for the 12 months to June 30, the company said.

Diageo, whose best-selling malt is Talisker, spent 40 million pounds on a plant at Roseisle in northern Scotland, part of 100 million pounds of investment.

“It’s about growth over the next two or three decades,” said Ken Robertson, Diageo’s head of corporate relations for whisky. “You have to lay products down well in advance.”

Glenmorangie, which Paris-based LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA bought in 2005 for 300 million pounds, is increasing capacity at its plant at Tain in the Highlands by 50 percent. Along with new bottling and warehousing, the investment over two years amounts to 45 million pounds, Glenmorangie said.

Pagoda Turret

Thomson said he first had the idea to go into the whisky business in the late 1980s and early 1990s when 25 distilleries closed as more liquor was produced than the world could drink. He didn’t have the money at the time to snap one up, he said.

There are currently seven new distilleries being planned, including Thomson’s, the association said. Since 1995, 18 plants that were dormant have been brought back to production.

At Annandale, the buildings from the 19th century remain intact, complete with a pagoda-style ventilation turret and a beige brick chimney next to a small stream, or burn.

Glasgow University archaeologists are digging out the foundations of where the whisky stills once stood so Thomson can restore the plant to how it was originally.

Exports totaled a record 3.1 billion pounds last year. Total sales this year in volume terms are up about 2 percent, while the value of bottles sold declined about 4 percent, Hewitt said. The biggest markets are France and the U.S., though sellers are counting on Brazil, Russia and Asia for growth.

“The decisions companies make now are for 10 or 15 years ahead,” Hewitt said.

‘Keeping Alive’

Most malt whiskies, typically drunk in Scotland with a few splashes of water, are made in the Highlands, with a cluster of producers in Speyside near Inverness. Should it come to fruition, the Annandale plant would be one of only half a dozen in what are known as the Lowlands.

The risk for new producers is how they fund themselves before their whisky makes it into the bottle and how they differentiate themselves from existing malts, Robertson said.

“Keeping alive for the first few years is the tricky thing,” Robertson said at Diageo’s Edinburgh offices. “The threat to the mainstream is: can it continue to expand into the markets it’s earmarked for itself?”

A professor of consumer psychology based near Oxford in England, Thomson bought Annandale for 1 million pounds from a local farmer in April 2007 and is spending 2.8 million pounds on refurbishment, installing the plant and groundwork. He then reckons it will cost another 500,000 pounds a year until he bottles whisky in 2013 or 2014.

Annandale will include a visitors’ center and store to cater to tourists whose revenue Thomson hopes will help fund the plant. Thomson’s planning application will be heard in January amid potential problems with the access road, he said. The Scottish government granted aid for the project in April 2008.

“If you ask me what I’d like my legacy to be, it would be to bring back a distillery to life,” Thomson said. “And leave it as economically viable.”

To contact the reporter on this story: Rodney Jefferson in Edinburgh at r.jefferson@bloomberg.net

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Starting yesterday, some new wide-ranging regulations have gone into effect in Scotland: Scotch Whisky Regulations 2009. Here is the BBC story, here is the Scotsman.com story, and here is the full text of the new legislation.

These regulations have been greatly welcomed by the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA), as SWA's chief executive, Gavin Hewitt, said: "This is landmark legislation for Scotch Whisky delivering important benefits for consumers, distillers, and the economy. Additional protection, including the requirement to bottle single malt Scotch whisky in Scotland, helps safeguard Scotch from unfair and deceptive practices... The new labelling rules provide a unique opportunity to promote consumer understanding of Scotch worldwide."

Among the new regulations are the following key provisions:* Five categories of Scotch Whisky are defined for the first time; Single Malt ScotchWhisky, Single Grain Scotch Whisky, Blended Malt Scotch Whisky, Blended Grain ScotchWhisky, and Blended Scotch Whisky.* These compulsory category sales terms will be required to appear clearly and prominently on all labels.* A requirement to only bottle Single Malt Scotch Whisky in Scotland.* New rules to prevent the misleading labelling and marketing of Single Malt ScotchWhiskies.* A ban on the use of the term ‘Pure Malt’.* A ban on the use of a distillery name as a brand name on any Scotch Whisky which has not been wholly distilled in the named distillery.* Protection of five traditional whisky regions of production; Highland, Lowland, Speyside, Islay, and Campbeltown.* A requirement that Scotch Whisky must be wholly matured in Scotland.* Clear rules on the use of age statements on packaging.* Designation of HM Revenue & Customs as the verification authority for Scotch Whisky.

1. "A whisky produced in Scotland that(a) has been distilled at a distillery in Scotland from water and malted barley (to which only whole grains of other cereals may be added) all of which have been—(i) processed at that distillery into a mash;(ii) converted at that distillery into a fermentable substrate only by endogenous enzyme systems; and(iii) fermented at that distillery only by the addition of yeast;(b) has been distilled at an alcoholic strength by volume of less than 94.8 per cent so that the distillate has an aroma and taste derived from the raw materials used in, and the method of, its production;(c) that has been matured only in oak casks of a capacity not exceeding 700 litres;(d) that has been matured only in Scotland;(e) that has been matured for a period of not less than three years;(f) that has been matured only in an excise warehouse or a permitted place;(g) that retains the colour, aroma and taste derived from the raw materials used in, and the method of, its production and maturation;(h) to which no substance has been added, or to which no substance has been added except — (i) water; (ii) plain caramel colouring; or (iii) water and plain caramel colouring; and(i) that has a minimum alcoholic strength by volume of 40%.

2. In these Regulations —*“Single Malt Scotch Whisky” means a Scotch Whisky that has been distilled in one or more batches—(a) at a single distillery;(b) from water and malted barley without the addition of any other cereals; and(c) in pot stills;*“Single Grain Scotch Whisky” means a Scotch Whisky that has been distilled at a single distillery except —(a) Single Malt Scotch Whisky; or(b) a Blended Scotch Whisky;*“Blended Malt Scotch Whisky” means a blend of two or more Single Malt Scotch Whiskiesthat have been distilled at more than one distillery;*“Blended Grain Scotch Whisky” means a blend of two or more Single Grain Scotch Whiskies that have been distilled at more than one distillery; and*“Blended Scotch Whisky” means a blend of one or more Single Malt Scotch Whiskies with one or more Single Grain Scotch Whiskies.

Operationally, this has various consequences enumerated in the "general interpretation" section. Of special relevance in this section, note the following:

Marketing

(1) A person must not label, package, sell, advertise or promote any drink as Scotch Whisky or Scotch if it is not Scotch Whisky.

(2) A person must not label, package, sell, advertise or promote any drink in any other way that creates a likelihood of confusion on the part of the public as to whether the drink is Scotch Whisky.

Movement from Scotland to another country

(1) A person must not move any of the following categories of Scotch Whisky from Scotland to another country in a wooden cask or other wooden holder:(a) Single Grain Scotch Whisky;(b) Blended Malt Scotch Whisky;(c) Blended Grain Scotch Whisky; or(d) Blended Scotch Whisky.

(2) During the period until (and including) 22nd November 2012, a person must not move any Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Scotland to another country in a wooden cask or other wooden holder.

(3) On and after 23rd November 2012 a person must not move any Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Scotland to another country except in a bottle (made of any inert material) that is labelled for retail sale.

(4) For the purposes of this regulation a person is regarded as having moved Scotch Whisky from Scotland to another country if they: a) physically move the whisky from Scotland to another country; or (b) arrange (whether directly or through a third party) for another person to physically move the whisky from Scotland to another country.

Compulsory sales descriptions

(1) The category into which a Scotch Whisky falls must be stated on:(a) the front of a container of Scotch Whisky; and(b) any individual packaging used for the transportation of the container, or used for display purposes during the marketing of the whisky, unless, in both cases, the front of the container is clearly visible through that packaging.

(3) The name of the category must be:(a) printed in a conspicuous place in such a way as to be easily visible and legible to the naked eye and indelible so that it is clear that it is the sales description of the whisky;(b) printed in a way that gives equal prominence to each word making up the name of the category; and(c) as prominent as any other description of the whisky on the container or packaging, except for: (i) any separate use of the description “Scotch Whisky”; (ii) any statement relating to the year in which the whisky was distilled, the year inwhich it was bottled, the period for which it was matured or the age of the whisky;and (iii) any descriptive word or words forming part of the brand name.

(4) The name of the category must not be:(a) overlaid or interrupted by other written or pictorial matter; or(b) used in conjunction with any other words.

(5) But paragraph (4)(b) does not prevent the name of a Scottish locality or region from being appended to the name of the category of the whisky to indicate where the Scotch Whisky was distilled if —(a) it appears immediately before the name of the category;(b) the whisky was distilled in the named locality or region; and(c) the use of that name does not otherwise contravene regulation 10 (re: locality and region geographical indications).

(6) A person must not label, package or sell any Scotch Whisky in a way that does not comply with paragraph (1), (3) or (4).

(7) A person must not label, package, sell, advertise or promote any Scotch Whisky as falling within a category if it does not fall into that category.

Locality and region geographical indications

(1) A whisky or whisky-based drink must not be labelled, packaged, advertised or promoted in a way that includes the name of a protected locality or a protected region unless:(a) in the case of whisky, the whisky is Scotch Whisky that has been distilled in that locality or region; or(b) in the case of a whisky-based drink, the only whisky in the drink is Scotch Whisky that has been distilled in that locality or region.

(2) But paragraph (1) does not apply in the circumstances specified in Schedule 3.

(3) A whisky or whisky-based drink must not be labelled, packaged, advertised or promoted in a way that includes any reference to a name that is similar to the name of a protected locality or protected region if, having regard to the presentation of the product as a whole, the reference may create a likelihood of confusion on the part of the public as to where the whisky or whisky-based drink was distilled.

(4) A person must not label, package, advertise or promote any whisky or whisky-based drink in a way that contravenes paragraph (1) or (3), or sell any whisky or whisky-based drink that has been labelled or packaged in that way.

(5) The protected localities are:(a) “Campbeltown”, comprising the South Kintyre ward of the Argyll and Bute Council as that ward is constituted in the Argyll and Bute (Electoral Arrangements) Order 2006(a); and(b) “Islay”, comprising the Isle of Islay in Argyll.

(6) The protected regions are:(a) “Highland”, comprising that part of Scotland that is north of the line dividing the Highland region from the Lowland region;(b) “Lowland”, comprising that part of Scotland that is south of the line dividing the Highland region from the Lowland region; and(c) “Speyside”, comprising: (i) the wards of Buckie, Elgin City North, Elgin City South, Fochabers Lhanbryde, Forres, Heldon and Laich, Keith and Cullen and Speyside Glenlivet of the Moray Council as those wards are constituted in the Moray (Electoral Arrangements) Order 2006(b); and (ii) the Badenoch and Strathspey ward of the Highland Council as that ward is constituted in the Highland (Electoral Arrangements) Order 2006(c).

(7) In this regulation “the line dividing the Highland region from the Lowland region” means the line beginning at the North Channel and running along the southern foreshore of the Firth of Clyde to Greenock, and from there to Cardross Station, then eastwards in a straight line to the summit of Earl’s Seat in the Campsie Fells, and then eastwards in a straight line to the Wallace Monument, and from there eastwards along the line of the B998 and A91 roads until the A91 meets the M90 road at Milnathort, and then along the M90 northwards until the Bridge of Earn, and then along the River Earn until its confluence with the River Tay, and then along the southern foreshore of that river and the Firth of Tay until it comes to the North Sea.

Use of the words ‘pure’ and ‘malt’ and derivations

11. A person must not label, package, sell, advertise or promote any Scotch Whisky in a way that includes:(a) the phrase ‘pure malt’ or any derivation of that phrase; or(b) the words ‘pure’ and ‘malt’, or any derivation of those words in a way that, although the words are separated from each other (whether by text or otherwise), the word ‘pure’ (or any derivation of it) is used adjectivally in connection with the word ‘malt’ (or any derivation of it).

Maturation, age and distillation statements

12. --(1) Without prejudice to the obligation to comply with the directly applicable requirements of Article 12(3) of Regulation (EC) No 110/2008 (which requires, among other things, that any maturation period or age may only be specified in the description, presentation or labelling of a spirit drink where it refers to the youngest alcoholic component in the drink), a person must not label, package, sell, advertise or promote any Scotch Whisky in a way that includes a reference to its maturation period or age unless the maturation period or age is expressed in years.

--(2) A person must not label, package, sell, advertise or promote any Scotch Whisky in a way that includes a reference relating to when it was distilled unless:(a) the reference relates to a single calendar year;(b) all of the whisky in the drink was distilled in that year;(c) the presentation of the whisky also includes a reference to: (i) the year of bottling of the whisky; (ii) the maturation period of the whisky; or (iii) the age of the whisky; and(d) the reference to the year of bottling, the maturation period, or age of the whisky appears in the same field of vision as the reference to the year of distillation.

(3) A person must not label, package, sell, advertise or promote any Scotch Whisky in a way that includes a reference to any number (however expressed) if the reference to that number may create a likelihood of confusion on the part of the public as to whether the number relates to the maturation period of the whisky, its age or when it was distilled.

The remaining dozen+ pages of the regulation stipulate even more techie and administrative details, enforcement procedures, appeals processes, penalties, etc.

LOCH LOMOND DISTILLERY

One of the interesting side-effects of all of this is the narrowed focus on the "pot-still". The Loch Lomond Distillery produces a single malt using a mix of pot-stills and what are known as "Lomond-Stills" which are basically hybrid stills modified with a special rectifying head which mimics aspects of the Coffey or Column still (that is, the lyne arm is replaced by a system of horizontal parallel plates, but it is still a batch process rather than continuous) -- so the Lomond-Still is more efficient and widely considered "green" or more environmentally friendly than a traditional pot-still...but thus would seem to run afoul of this new regulation. See the Whisky Magazine story here; here is the Guardian's story. [This picture highlights the two different still designs -- pot still and Lomond still, from the Dumbarton Distillery which was mothballed in 2002; an interesting article on the Lomond Still can be found here].

John Peterson, distilling director of Loch Lomond, commented: "We have a method that produces a very good malt spirit but are being penalised because we are innovators... We want to make the process better and save considerable amounts of energy. As it is, we prevent more than 1,400 tonnes of CO2 being released every year and they want us to go back to the old inefficient ways... The SWA wants us to call it grain whisky, but it's not; if anything that's an even more misleading description. Politicians are quick to shout about climate change and how industry has to find new ways to reduce carbon output, but when we try to do something innovative we get slapped down for it."

The SWA, meanwhile, was having none of it, as a spokesman noted: "Producing a malt mash in a single still as Loch Lomond Distillery does is simply not traditional practice. Consumers understand that single malt Scotch whisky is produced in a copper pot still and therefore a malt mash distilled in a column still will not be able to continue after the regulations come into force."

I have not yet been able to determine what, if anything, has become of Loch Lomond's process which accounts for about 20 million bottles per year of "High Commissioner" blended Scotch whisky, the 3rd most popular brand in the UK.

OK, Over at The Malt Advocate blog, John Hansell, Publisher and Editor of that fine publication that published my article on the George Washington Distillery, posted the story about the Edrington Group's decision to mothball the Tamdhu distillery, and it has sparked an interesting and ongoing discussion. Per usual, I have written way to much. You can check it all out in situ by clicking here.

For posterity, here it is (from the Malt Advocate blog):

Edrington mothballs Tamdhu distilleryPosted by John Hansell

Sad, but given the current economy, not surprising. You can read about it here.

1. Luke says: November 22, 2009 at 6:36 amBad news, but we can almost certainly expect worse in the New Year.I won’t tempt fate by naming names, but expect some well-know casualties in 2010.

2. [Here is what I had to say]: November 22, 2009 at 12:45 pmVery sad indeed. Edrington has been doing well too…just imagine how other players in the industry will handle the projected slimming of shareholder’s profits. This is a hell of a Christmas gift for roughly 30 families and the local Moray economy. Very, very sad.

3. Red_Arremer says: November 22, 2009 at 3:22 pmTamdhu 10, the only distillery offering, was clearly conceived of as a “bang for the buck,” which it really was. It represents a time before the price-jacks on Macallan 18, when the idea of a value-product with distinctive character was thought to be a pretty reasonable brand concept. There were a lot of items like that back then and I’m sure to marketing people right now, the rationale behind all of them looks unintelligible. This discontinuation of this one goes right along with the price-jacking with arguable improvement of tomatin 12, auchentoshan 10, laphroaig 15, glen garioch 8, and many others. It’s too bad.

4. Todd says: November 22, 2009 at 8:53 pmSad, but there may silver lining behind this closure if Edrington sells the distillery to someone who will love it and promote it. Why should Edrington work hard on developing a hidden gem like Tamdhu when they can continue to coast on Macallan, the default Xmas present for the boss and valued clients?

While the OB Tamdhu 10 has always struck me as Glen-like-whatever, I’ve tasted some outstanding Tamdhu indie bottlings over the years both young and old. A 1985 Tamdhu 12 yo bottled at 59.5% in 1997 by Adelphi, cask 9048 was a stunner, and Duncan Taylor released a number of vintage 1969 Tamdhu bottlings about 5 years ago that were excellent, showing that this spirit can age well. So I am certain this distillery is capable of excellence.

It’s worth reflecting on resurrection of Bruichladdich or the terrific job the Walkers are doing with Benriach and Glendronach in unfortunate circumstances like this.

5. John Hansell says: November 22, 2009 at 8:58 pmTodd, you have a very good point. This may be the best thing for Tamdhu.

6. [Here is what I had to say]: November 22, 2009 at 11:16 pmTodd and John, yes, hope springs eternal that someone will swoop down and save or even revitalize Tamdhu distillery.

On the other hand, Scotland is littered with the corpses of closed distilleries – true gems among them. For every Ardbeg or Bruichladdich there is a Port Ellen, for every Bladnoch there is a Rosebank and a St Magadlene.

I would hazard to guess that Edrington probably has enough stock aging to keep the Tamdhu-generated revenue flowing for 5-10 years before they really feel the pinch, much less re-think or second-guess their strategic planning. Indeed, given that the major part of the production from the Tamdhu Distillery is used in the Famous Grouse, J&B and Cutty Sark blends, it is not too difficult to imagine that Edrington might have zero plans to unload the distillery, thinking that it will eventually need to bring it back online for blending needs down the road…in the fullness of time. Might even happen too.

Then again, it might just as easily stay mothballed indefinitely. Time will tell if this will be a Benriach or a Dallas Dhu (or a Banff, or Ben Wyvis, or Braes of Glenlivet, or Caperdonich, or Coleburn, or Convalmore, or Glen Albyn, or Glencraig, or Glen Keith, or Glenlochy, or Glen Mhor, or Glenugie, etc., etc.).

Don’t get me wrong, I’m a knuckle dragging, fiscal-libertarian-leaning free market warrior. Edrington can do what it likes with its assets. I have no stake in the risks, costs or profits. I’m just a consumer in a foreign market with an armchair quarterback’s view of the game, and an idealist’s sense of what ought to be. Yet I can’t help but feel that a little bit of Scotland’s heritage has taken a beating here.

I also can’t help but think of the 20-30 families that are most directly affected by this decision. Moray is not exactly a booming center of employment at the best of times. Edrington might not feel the loss of Tamdhu’s production for the better part of a decade (or more), but the same may not, I suspect, be said of the dozens of soon to be unemployed members of Edrington’s corporate “family.”

As you said, John, at the start of this thread — not surprising, but very sad.

7. sam k says: November 22, 2009 at 11:32 pmAnd what will be the effect of Diageo’s gargantuan Roseisle distillery on some of the smaller plants under their care? If the fallout is already occurring elsewhere, why would we not think that this would be a factor in the new economy?

I’m not really a scotch guy, but I am concerned, so I’m asking those of you who are…Joshua?

8. [Here is what I had to say]: November 23, 2009 at 1:52 amGood question, Sam. One that has come up on John’s blog before, like back in July when Diageo announced plans to close a distillery and bottling plant, and to lay off hundreds of employees. I’m sure plenty of others will have a more intelligent and concise answer than whatever I hammer out here.

For what it is worth and at the risk of unleashing yet another long, rambling missive… Yes, I am concerned. I think most Scotch drinkers are, or would be (keep in mind that most folks take no interest in the business side of this industry).

[Let me pour myself another dram of Tamdhu – I suggest anyone choosing to read on do the same.] Now like I said earlier, I’m a capitalist, free market kind of guy. I get it that business is, well, business.

Strategic commercial decisions are made to benefit the company, not destroy their investments. Companies like Diageo, or Edrington or Whyte & Mackay, etc., are doing what they think is for the best.

Certainly I’m in no position to second-guess anyone’s economic decisions with any authority. Still, business decisions, like economic forecasts, are hardly infallible and the future of our beloved tipple potentially hangs in the balance of such decisions.

I’d like to believe that there is some happy middle ground between misty-eyed, tradition-loving whisky conservatives (like myself), and the industry number-cruncher accountants charged with making cold, cost-benefit, profit-loss calculations that eventually inform the decision makers. Though this is easy for me to say, as my only “loss” or “risk” here is as a consumer coping with rising costs and relative scarcity (in one section of one region of but one market).

At a certain level it is obviously presumptuous for a non-player/outsider to second guess a local small businessman, much less a multinational conglomerate – much less the world’s largest multinational drinks company. On the other hand, who’s to stop me.

So, yes, I am concerned. Yet, all of that said, I remain at least blandly optimistic that, on balance, the Scotch whisky industry is still essentially going from strength to strength.

Don’t forget that the history of the Scotch whisky industry is generally a story of growth, acquisition and diversification, with all the usual boom/bust and expansion/contraction cycles. This history is rife with all the myriad positives and negatives of amalgamation, corporatization and entrepreneurship.

Further (and at the risk of getting even more tedious here), Diageo has been helping to shape the industry, both as dynamic juggernaut and as sluggish behemoth, for over 130 years. That is, ever since the 1877 formation of the Distillers Company Ltd (DCL; an amalgamation of six lowland grain whisky distilleries). By the 1920’s DCL was so large that it soon swallowed up the three major blending firms of the day (James Buchanan, John Dewar, and John Walker).

Then, when Guinness bought DCL in 1986(or 87?), it became a player so monstrously huge as to boggle the mind. Yet even this set of conceptual parameters was smashed to all hell when Guinness plc merged, in 1997, with Grand Metropolitan plc. Together they formed Diageo plc, which, as we all know, became and remains the largest multinational beer, wine and spirits company in the world.

Diageo has thus helped shape and create much of the current Scotch whisky market that we enjoy and sometimes decry. So if and when Diageo chooses to cut whisky jobs or close distilleries, it is only business, and Diageo will simply be trying to maintain its competitive edge and long-term commercial health.

This is little solace, obviously, to any employees, and their families, facing unemployment in a down-economy, or to a region perennially in non-to-slow-growth mode at best. Sometimes life is very hard indeed…what can one say, but pass the whisky.

Tonight, I’m drinking Tamdhu and thinking of those folks sadly being chucked out and kicked off to the side.

[Wow..sorry to be such a bore here.]

9. patrick says: November 23, 2009 at 6:01 amWhat is found surprising, is that they don’t INTEND to close only the distillery but also the maltings.So far, I understood that the maltings at Tamdhu were profitable.Let’s wait and see.

10. Red_Arremer says: November 23, 2009 at 10:23 am1. That would be really nice, if Tamdhu were sold to and rehabilitated by some passionate whisky entrepaneur. I’ve tasted quite a few Tamdhus– all distinctive– Imagine maybe a 15 year old Tamdhu with a port finish!

2. Johsua, The “happy middle ground” that you are looking for, between “misty eyed” and “number crunching,” is to be found in a genuinely critical attitude toward the industry– an attitude that is all too often invoked only so that it can be carefully put to rest.

The question isn’t whether or not an Edrington-Group-outsider is qualified to second guess the excrutiatingly well informed survivalist machinations of an insider. It is whether or not you, or I, or any interested person judge the Group’s market strategy to be good.

How do you like it? How do you like the closing of Tamdhu? How do you like where the prices have gone on Macallan, where they probably will go on Highland Park? Will you take a critical stance or chasten yourself, raise the flag of the “free market warrior” and subordinate your interests to those of some over-paid higher ups in the world of corporate business?

11. Lew Bryson says: November 23, 2009 at 3:59 pmRed,As long as people continue to come up with reasons to pay the higher prices for these whiskies, and the whiskies continue to sell, critics of the practices will have little effect. A ‘free market warrior’ can mostly only do two things: buy or not buy, and encourage others to do likewise. The options of those who are not free market warriors…look starkly similar.

12. [Here is what I had to say]: November 23, 2009 at 5:39 pmHi Red,I think there is an important distinction between raising prices to increase profits and closing distilleries and laying people off. The two issues are more constructively handled sperately, I think. Also, following up on Lews’ comments, I’m not sure I understand what you mean by “critical stance.”

I suspect that Edrington cares not a whit about a few folks balking at paying such high prices for The Macallan or for Highland Park as it seems plain to me that their “luxury” marketing strategy has worked a charm. That is, there are more than enough folks who are indeed willing and able to pay such prices – and who do so frequently. Also, keep in mind that not ALL of the price rises are examples of greed or whatever (the pound remains much stronger than the dollar for one thing; also the costs of production are hardly static).

The most important or critical reception of any marketing plan is economic performance, however, not non-economic static by whisky aficionados. Sure, if enough of the bad-press or bad-rep static by dissatisfied whisky aficionados actually damages or drowns out the company’s branding, the corporate bigwigs would surely take notice…but so long as they are selling more whisky than not, why would they mess with a good thing?

IF or when sales falter, the producers may or may not determine that the price-point is the issue and that it needs to be adjusted downward. As Lew very concisely put it, the choices are really just to buy, or not to buy (and encourage folks to follow you).

Glenmorangie, for example, totally devalued their brand in the UK a few years back by being consistently the cheapest malts in the grocery stores. Sure they sold a lot of whisky initially but they also earned a reputation for being “cheap” and “common” rather than “classy” and “special” and sales grew flat instead of climbing. This is why LVMH rebranded soon after taking over – the packaging changed, the price went up, and the experimental output increased – all to their benefit in terms of profits, sales, and “brand value.” Edrington’s “The Macallan” is exactly the sort of “luxury” branding that many producers seek for their own brands. This is just good business sense. Would you rather your product be “the best” or “decent value” or “cheap”? You are only ever “overpriced” when the market consistently tells you that you are so (through economic performance).

Also, just as an aside, I didn’t mean anything too lofty with the “free market warrior” talk. I’m not especially ideological about this stuff. I was merely trying to strike a colorful balance to my genuine sympathy for those who are made worse off by shifts in the whisky market. Otherwise I was afraid I’d come off as a pitchfork waving socialist revolutionary type.

As Laphroaig US brand ambassador Simon Brooking’s motto has it — I’m merely trying to promote “world peace thro’ whisky, one dram at a time.” Amen to that.

13. [Here is what I had to say]: November 23, 2009 at 5:40 pmYikes. Sorry for another long, rambling post there. I gotta get out more.

14. Red_Arremer says: November 23, 2009 at 5:56 pm“…only do two things: buy or not buy, and encourage others to do likewise.”

Lew, your reduction of whisky blogging and appreciation to economic functions can’t possibly be meant seriously. I understand your desire to deflate writing that aims to clarify thought, value, and expression (writing, which may be economically dysfunctional). But I believe that the possibility of such talk is one of the many things that makes whisky blogging valuable.

Josh, all I’m saying is that I notice that you second guess yourself a lot. You’re a knowlegeable and intelligent person. Give yourself more credit. Don’t take back so many of your insights on account of modesty and your fluctuating commitments to one or another economic systems.

15. Red_Arremer says: November 23, 2009 at 5:58 pmbtw, Josh, I hadn’t seen your new post @12 when I wrote mine @14. You must have published it while I was writing mine

16. sam k says: November 23, 2009 at 6:11 pmDon’t worry about rambling, Josh! I for one appreciate your perspective. Well done!

17. Joshua_Bacarolle says: November 23, 2009 at 6:12 pmInteresting discussion…it’s sad to see Tamdhu shut down. The only point I’d like to make right now is related to Lew’s observation, that the only options we really have are to “buy or not buy.”

If you are not engaged with a product or service, then you might not care that your actions and feelings about a product or service could be reduced to “to buy” or “not to buy.”

However, this is a whisky blog, full of individuals who are passionate about the whisky. In this context, reducing yourself to a passive consumer, who is left with the “stark” binary choice in the influence they could exert over the industry is a disservice to the potential for a complex and passionate engagement with whisky, even in terms of how ONE individual could affect the “business” side of whisky.

Regardless of the influence you could have on large corporations’ business practices, a thoughtful, critical stance on the state of the whisky industry is important in its own right. I think everyone could agree on that…

But here’s the real beauty: one person CAN exert influence over the industry. Take John Hansell, for instance. He’s taken his active engagement with whisky to the extreme and I’m sure his public thoughts on whisky affect both industry insiders and consumers alike. His choice isn’t JUST to “buy or not to buy” but to inform, provide insight, and advise on a variety of whisky-related topics. It’s a complicated responsibility, but I think he does have the power to influence consumers and businesses. Of course we don’t all aspire to be or have the resources to be a high-profile whisky critic. But the point is, is that the potential does exist and this fact should be celebrated.

Another case in point: take John Glaser’s Compass Box. Whether or not you enjoy Compass Box whiskies, you can’t deny that Mr. Glaser took his passionate engagement with whisky and turned it into a business that offers a unique and successful product. In other words, an individual didn’t have to choose between “to buy” or “not to buy.” He created an interesting selection of vatted malts, and, as a result, gave whisky consumers a unique choice. Again, not everyone wants to or can achieve this level of influence over the whisky industry. But the potential does exist.

I certainly agree with Lew, that if a product is selling to its intended market at the best profit possible, then businesses will most certainly adopt an “if it ain’t broken, don’t fix it” attitude. A few irate comments from whisky-lovers on the malt advocate blog probably won’t influence managers’ pricing strategies. However, the potential for individual whisky lovers to engage with and influence businesses individual criticism does exist.

18. John Hansell says: November 23, 2009 at 6:45 pmA very interesting, passionate, discussion going on here. Thanks for taking the time to comment everyone.

It’s tough to see this happen to a distillery, isn’t it? Even if it is something we should expect at this time.

19. sam k says: November 23, 2009 at 7:40 pmSticking up for Lew…he did say that the “‘free market warrior’ can MOSTLY only do two things: buy or not buy, and encourage others to do likewise.”

It’s true…MOSTLY it’s all we can do. There is certainly the occasional shining exception, and I’m sure Lew would agree entirely with the passion side of the argument, but at the end of the day, mostly all we can can do is buy or not.

20. Scotty Freebairn says: November 23, 2009 at 10:28 pmI had the pleasure of visiting Thamdhu in 1984 and again in 1990. Charming distillery and an ingredient in The Famous Grouse. I have several bottles, and one or two 15 year olds, and find them quite excellent. Edrington seems to know what they are doing but I regret that such a fine distillery is being “mothballed.” Maybe worldwide demand will improve and the distillery yet may have a bright future. Let’s hope so!

21. [Here is what I had to say]: November 23, 2009 at 11:23 pmRed and Sam, re: post #14 and #16: Aw-shucks guys, your making me blush

Joshua (from post #17), I actually agree with much of what you say, though I think you’ve glossed over one profound aspect of your point. I think we do all agree that deeper engagement with whisky, through discourse like this, and through taking a “thoughtful, critical stance on the state of the whisky industry is important in its own right.” Indeed, I couldn’t have said it better myself.

On the economic side though, I think your examples of John Glazer and John Hansell are spot on, but in support of a slightly more nuanced point.

The binary choice of “buy” or “not buy” is not a limitation of the capacity of the individual; it is a reality of consumerism. That is what a consumer does – buy or not buy from among competing products. It is not that consumerism is passive – far from it actually, which is why competition can be so fierce and, in part, why the marketing industry emerged. But in economic terms, the product engagement of blogging, talking passionately to one’s friends and acquaintances, reading up on every little factoid, etc., amounts to little more than “static” or background noise except insofar as such voices can shift consumer preferences. This is a part of why marketing exists – and why whisky brand ambassadors and the like help craft pre-packaged stories and present sometimes simplified, air-brushed histories for us to savor. It is soft attempt to manipulate our natural tendency to positively engage and to form preferences out of such positive engagement.

What makes John Glazer or John Hansell different is that they effectively decided to not limit themselves to playing the role of “consumer,” but to enter the market with product – Glazer with whisky, Hansell with whisky media. That is, they elevated their interest from the limited consumer role to one of active market participant. This is a different, more dynamic role than the consumer.

Like I said before, “non-economic static by whisky aficionados” will not dramatically affect the market, but becoming a viable market player is different and can, indeed, change the market. Glazer not only added competition with some damn fine whiskies, but he also brought a dynamic and passionate entrepreneurialism that the more conservative SWA members were not wholly prepared for (e.g., the Smoke Tree controversy). The whole process adds greatly to the whisky industry, whether everyone likes it or not.

Likewise, John Hansell isn’t merely an anonymous whisky aficionado who started a blog; he is an entrepreneur who started a magazine which offers a constructive, honest and independent voice. Likewise his putting together of WhiskyFest offers a social/economic forum which helps to bridge the gap between consumer and producer, and allows us greater or expanded access to products – and we all have a great time in the process of this engagement. This blog, like WhiskyFest, is a direct extension of the market role he has built. It is because John (and Lew and the rest of the Malt Advocate team) maintain this role with such vibrancy and positive energy that the industry has responded accordingly with embrace rather than rejection or avoidance. Thus our discourse on this blog, more than on most blogs, is read by industry folks because of their engagement with John Hansell and the Malt Advocate

So yes, individuals can make a HUGE difference, even to the Scotch whisky trade. Market actors do so with economically viable activity. Consumers do so by voting with their pocketbooks — whether it is with or without passion is more immediately important to the consumer than it is to the boardroom executive (who generally has only spreadsheets, market research and gut instincts for guidance).

Phew! OK, enough from me for now. Another dram of Tamdhu is in order.

22. Red_Arremer says: November 24, 2009 at 2:44 pmWho cares if this discussion can have any impact on the whisky industry. The question is can it have any impact on us.

The “put your money where your mouth is” attitude that only big market players are qualified to have critical perspectives on events like the closure of a Tamdhu is positively villainous.

Anyways, you all don’t know me, but I am in fact a billionaire tycoon. If I wanted to reopen Tamdhu I could. But I’m not going to. Instead I’m going to do a bunch of things that you won’t like with my money and you had all better recognize that you can’t do anything about it and refrain from discussing or criticizing me at all.

JK guys, it’s all good

23. [Here is what I had to say]: November 24, 2009 at 5:56 pm Red, I agree with your first point – I probably wouldn’t bother otherwise. Your second point though, is misplaced — you are confusing “is” with “ought.” Straightforward description of the way something IS should not be taken as a value judgment or argument about the way it “ought” to be. [It isn’t a matter of qualifications, and no one here has yet expressed the view that "only big market players are qualified to have critical perspectives."]

Critical perspectives are important, but the old saw that “actions speak louder than words” is directly relevant here. Until pontification of this sort affects sales, there isn’t space for it on most Excel spreadsheets. That isn’t, perhaps the way it OUGHT to be, but it IS, at present, a fact.

Quote of the Week

“The proper drinking of Scotch whisky is more than indulgence: it is a toast to civilization, a tribute to the continuity of culture, a manifesto of man’s determination to use the resources of nature to refresh mind and body and enjoy to the full the senses with which he has been endowed.” -- David Daiches, Scotch Whisky: Its Past and Present (1969)

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About Me

I am a writer and editor with a passion for wine, food and spirits (especially single malt Scotch whisky). I now have an unrelated day job, but at one time I earned my living, such that it was, as a scribbler.