There is a check valve and spring in the pressure regulator. Remove the four self tapping screws and the regulator pulls right out. It is connected behind the panel with a common screw on hose fitting.
Replace the regulator by reversing this procedure. They are cheap.

There is a check valve and spring in the pressure regulator. Remove the four self tapping screws and the regulator pulls right out. It is connected behind the panel with a common screw on hose fitting.
Replace the regulator by reversing this procedure. They are cheap.

Over the years I've purchased anodes from many different sources including cheap ebay sites as well as expensive dealerships. The source I would recommend is boatzincs.com. They've been there for a long time, have great service and very competitive prices.
You'll need a standard hull anode as well as anodes for the trim tabs and shaft. Also for your bow thruster if you have that option. The hull anode is a very critical component of your boat so do not take it for granted. I buy the 'heavy duty' version from boatzinc.com Check them 2x per year and change when they are 1/2 gone. I had the one on my heat exchanger blow-up inside the exchanger. Made a mess of the thing after I took it apart to clean it out. Engine was overheating on me as a result.

Hold a paint paddle against the light bezel. Put your screw driver blade between the bezel and head liner. Try several spots around and it will be lowering to the point you can get a grip and pull out. Have to show us what your replacing with.

Has anyone ever replaced the TV in the salon on a 2010 390? I can't figure out how to get the original TV off the drop down panel.

Thanks

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I have an 05 390. I don't know if its the same setup, but you have to remove the 4 screws from the inner tv panel with the tv in the retracted position. this will leave you with the back of the TV bracket. remove bracket screws an Voila!
I replaced mine with a Samsung 28" and fits perfectly.

I did the install myself when she was on the hard 2 years ago.. wired them to the ACCESSORY "Blank" on the helm and put in a factory switch (Momentary/On/off) through a standard relay to break the circuit, used 16/4 power cable to the back of the boat, ran starboard side off one pair, and port side off the other..
I dont recommend doing the sides you dont have enough hull for "straight out" under water, you can put them through the bottom and that would create a glow under everything, (SeaBlazeX) doesnt recommend putting them there (what i have on the transom).. i have 4 going across the back.. i spend a few hours deciding where to place them and how.. i dont remember the exact measurements but i know the 2 out side ones are 2" below the waterline, the 2 middle ones are 4" under the water line, all EVENLY spaced from each other, the 2 outer ones are right at the inner edges of the trim tabs..ill see if i can find the photo shopped picture i used for my measurements..

Hello fellow Sundancers, I just bought my 2005 DA this summer. The previous owner experience a problem with the a/c water pump relay. He hot wired the pump to an extension cord so it needs to be plugged in to run the unit. I can't seem to find where the relay is located, I guess my predesessor had the same issue, does someone know where it is?

Been a few years since I owned the 2005DA, but I THINK I recall seeing the relay behind and to the left of the AC/DC panel in the cabin. That panel is hinged so its easy to unscrew the top and swing it down for a look. I know on my 2005 390DA, that is where the galvanic isolator was located but thought I saw the AC pump relay as well.