The sky was a clear, brilliant blue on this autumn day, but frigid gusts grew stronger the higher I climbed. Struggling to maintain my footing, I tried to channel lessons learned from years of doing balancing poses on a yoga mat. I could taste a grit in my mouth, the dust of limestone ground down over the millennia.

When the wind got to be too much, I sat upon the chilly concrete seats and admired the splendor of my surroundings. The 2,000-year-old theater’s spectacular backdrop wall soaked up the day’s last hours of sunlight. Weathered columns and niches were still bathed in a golden light, but a statue of Roman Emperor Augustus had already fallen into shadows.

I’ve read that the mistral wind might make its appearance in Provence about 100 days a year! Realizing how much my hair had been tousled by the mistral in a few minutes’ time, I imagined how this fierce wind had impacted performers the last few thousand years. What props have succumbed to the strong gusts? And what did Roman performance-goers wear to protect themselves from the mistral’s inevitable chilling effect?

Realizing that we didn’t have enough outerwear to stay warm, Shawn, his parents, and I headed to a café just across from the theater. We wrapped our hands around hot cups of coffee, and looked at the theater’s exterior from our sheltered spot.

Once we’d gotten our second wind, we again braved the elements to visit the city’s triumphal arch, which was built around the same time as the theater.

As the branches of the nearby trees tossed in the wind, I marveled at how the arch’s carvings could look so intact despite being exposed to centuries of the mistral’s abuse.

A Bit About Roman Orange (Arausio)

Originally known as Arausio, Orange’s Roman chapter began in about 35 BCE, when a military colony was established there.

Recognized for its fine architecture long before the 1981 UNESCO inscription, Louis XIV supposedly declared the theater’s backdrop wall as “the most beautiful wall” in his kingdom.

A first glimpse of the Roman Theatre at the corner of this streetscape (left) and buildings painted in traditional Provençal hues (right).The Roman Theater’s massive exterior wall, partially covered in scaffolding. This 17th-century drawing gives an idea of how this structure dwarfed some of Orange’s other buildings.This café interior offered me, Shawn, and his parents shelter from Orange’s wind, after we toured the theater.Old meets new: peering through a theater arch, onto a well-traveled street.When you first enter the theater complex, you’ll happen upon these ruins. Archaeologists have debated whether they’re the remains of a temple — even a circus. Today, it’s believed that the area was dedicated to the worship of Emperor Augustus.

The ruins of the temple, contrasted with a contemporary street scene.The Roman Theater’s spectacular backdrop wall. A statue of Emperor Augustus is the focal point, and originally the wall would’ve been adorned with marble.Weathered columns.Columns adorn the backdrop wall (left) and modern, concrete seating (right). For a time, the structure was transformed into a prison, even a housing area. It wasn’t until the 19th century that the theater returned to being a venue for hosting opera and theatrical performances.A view of the stage (left) and Augustus’ crumbling likeness (right).A woman walks across the stage.Stairs worn by time, and thousands of footsteps (left) and a crumbling theater wall frames the distant Alps (right).Shawn and his mom (left) and me, trying to escape the relentless mistral wind (right).The theater has seating for about 9,000 spectators.

The theater’s seating area is built into a hill. The next time we visit, I’d love to climb up to this green overlook for a bird’s eye view.Colorful buildings line one of Orange’s main streets.A motorbike speeds past Orange’s Triumphal Arch, not long before sunset. The arch, which dates back to the 1st century CE, was constructed by a Roman legion of veterans.One of the panel’s details (left) and me and Shawn huddle to stay warm (right).A plane tree wearing autumn leaves frames the arch.The arch’s well-preserved reliefs depict military themes: shields, naval symbols, and standards.A Corinthian-style column (left). Shawn’s father admires the architecture (right).The arch’s ceiling reminds me of the one inside Jupiter’s Temple in Split, Croatia.

Shawn’s Video:

Where in the World?

Planning Pointers:

Orange is located in France’s Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region, about 115 km (70 miles) northwest of Marseille.

The Roman Theater (French: Théâtre antique d’Orange) is open for visits and the venue hosts performances, too. We did independent tours, and were given information-packed audioguides. See the Roman Theater’s official website for opening hours, prices, and upcoming events. When we visited in 2017, there was also a ‘Roman Pass Combined Ticket Offer’, with slightly reduced rates for some of Orange’s, and nearby Nîmes’, Roman sites.

So great to see you here! This place looks amazing, in spite of the cold wind. We have had some windy days here too. (but not very cold) Glad to see you are still travelling to interesting places. Happy New Year!!

Hi Darlene, it’s great to be back sharing some stories. Thanks for the nice welcome! What is the cold, northerly wind in Spain called? Having spent some time in a few different countries, I’m finding it fascinating hearing the locals’ comments about how particular winds impact their mood and physical health. Do you hear similar accounts in Spain?

And have you been to Segovia to see the aqueduct there? It looks pretty incredible!

Though I did not enjoy the mistral winds in Provence either, I do so love the quality of that light. It glows golden and seems to have a life of its own. Every time I have visited this region of France, I have thought to myself, “I understand why artists flocked here!” You’ve captured that light beautifully in your photos.

Hi Atreyee, those master painters were no doubt drawn to Provence’s glorious light, but probably had to hold onto their canvases tightly. :)

This was my first time visiting the area west of Marseille. We stayed 3 weeks, dividing our time between home bases near Carcassonne and Nîmes. Since you have visited this region more than once, can you share any of your favorite towns or places? We hope to return soon, and feel as though we only scratched the surface.

I too feel as if I have only scratched the surface of Provence, Tricia! In the Vaucluse my favorite towns are Gordes, Vaison-la-Romaine, and Mazan.

Gordes is 38 kilometers east of Avignon. It’s got Roman ruins, but also a beautiful Cistercian abbey called Sénanque. Vaison-la-Romaine is the place to see tons of Roman ruins right next to medieval quarters — like stepping into the pages of a history book. Mazan had some amazing Merovingian sarcophagi in its cemetery. I remember Roussillon to be picturesque too due to its position on top of ochre hills. Don’t remember any Roman ruins there, but the town is awash in shades of the pigment and, if you’re a Samuel Beckett (the playwright) fan, is the town where he hid while aiding the Resistance during WWII.

I have a few favorites in the Var and Alpes-Maritimes departments of Provence as well. If you want more information on any of those or the towns I mentioned in the Vaucluse I’m happy to provide it, but I didn’t want this reply to be too long.

What a fantastic sight and so well-preserved. I love visiting Roman sites and seeing the detailed work in the structures. I think it was worth facing that freezing wind to see this, Tricia. Happy 2018.

Hi Carol, it’s good to hear from you! You’re right that the state of preservation makes it remarkable. I also love that performances are still held there, keeping the spirit of the site alive. The acoustics are supposed to be great, but Orange’s stone seats seem pretty unforgiving. The Romans must have brought some type of cushions when attending a performance. :)

Shawn and I are always eager to explore more Ancient Roman sites. Are there any from your travels that stand out?

For us, the best Roman sites would be the Porte Nigra in Trier and also the sites along Hadrian’s Wall, especially Vindolanda. We also really enjoyed Fishbourne Roman Palace. Actually any Roman site we’ve been to is pretty amazing.

Ethan, I share your enthusiasm for ruins, yet I didn’t always feel that way because I used to find them too abstract. Now I appreciate their air of mystery and the chance to interpret them. At the moment, my husband and I are in Kotor, Montenegro. There are some impressive churches here, many of which were built on the foundations of even older sites. Those multiple layers of history are fascinating!