didnt you get the under chamber opened and drained the old CVT oil ??
whats the source ? which says that 1KR engine gear needs 6.37 Liters of CVT?
As my cousin changed the oil and poured the 4 liter can of CVT-TC in it, If the capacity is more then this is dangerous to run vehicle with 2.37 Liters less.

What you have done is called freshen up the transmission oil. whch is part of maintenance and servicing.

I am not sure about CVT but with conventional Auto transmissions,

Fresh oil added after removing old one from chamber drain nut
cooler pipes are opened up and engine is run for like 1 minute to drain old oil in torque convertor.
Then oil level is filled again with fresh oil and pipe opened again and enine started, more of old dirty oil will come out.
This is repeated until you get nice clean oil coming out of cooler pipes.

This process consumes more then designated oil quantity, (6.37 in this case) as some of it is wasted in draining again and again.

nw dat wuz helping ! actually i didnt do dis starting up part n removing all of it ! the mechanic just removed 4L cleaned the filter ! n reinstalled everything n poured in the 4L can n took the car for test drive !

you can never get more than half the oil from a transmission that uses a torque converter with no drain plug. The bottom bit of the convertor traps the oil inside it when the engine shuts off. - e.g. the refill from fresh build of a Honda civic Autobox is about 8 litres, while a change is always less than 3 - the rest is trapped inside.

I learned from Pakwheels that the chamber needed to be opened, the mechanics chotu didnt agree with me and just open the nut, only half a liter or less came out, he got confused to, No body wanted to open the chamber as they said doing so would require a seal/gasket replacement i was up for it as i had read on Pakwheels.

Another mechanic came from the workshop next door and told them that the drain tube can be opened and removed like this, and he removed it, More oil came out aprox more then 3 but less then 4 liters.

Now the time came to refill, Here again they argued the refil port was the nut above, And i insisted that the black port in the refil port, that black port wasnt opening so we left is thinking that it is a sensor filled the car with aprxx 3 liter of CVT, and did some engine start/stop 2 to 3 times to let extra oil out, after that i left and the mechanic suggested me to visit the next day to see if everythings okay, later that night i fiddled around with that black filler port and i opened it using a flat head screw driver.

Going thru international Toyota Forums i learned since their isnt any dip stick the best way to check is to fill till the tip of that black clip/filler port what so ever, it was a few drops below i added some and it topped up. The CVT removed from my car was still red, But i replaced it just for the peace of my mind.

The whole point of writing this story is that seniors above are correct, the entire 4 liter can is not meant to go in, and extra oil or oil above the required mark can damage the transmission.

Get over the fact that Xli lacks power windows, Its an Xli because it lacks thoose features or else it would be a Gli or an Altis if had all the goodies.

The sump does not need to be removed, the allen key you use to remove the sump plug is also used to remove the strainer that is in there. Unscrew and you are done with the drain, a liter or less of oil is poured into the giant hex bolt opening so that it starts to drain from the sump - this pushes the old oil trapped in the sump depression. The oil not coming out full is only because that most of it is trapped in the torque convertor and in the clutches.

I dont know why the hell toyota acted like full retards and ommited the dipstick altogether. ATF level is checked when hot and with a fill and test port its quite dangerous as the fluid can severely burn you.

Hi there,
Sorry I know its a cvt oil thread but I'm in a dilemma. I recently got my 1.0L 2007 vitz engine oil changed from Toyota Islamabad. They had only 20W-50 mineral. So had to put that in. Recommended for vitz is 5W-30.
My question is that would it be harmful in any way for the engine? Thanks.

^ Toyota oil in a steel can comes with 5-30W is avalible in market but im not sure the that the 5-30 specification is for Pakistani enviorments.

I got Caltex Havoline 5W-40 Synthetic Oil.

My car has only 55k original on the odo. I'm not sure if the 20W 50 thick oil is good or bad for the engine. My car had good mileage before with the oil which came with the car from Japan. It was running smooth. I read somewhere that thick oils can cause oil pump or resistance problems in these new engines or maybe its a myth. So many mixed opinions about it.

^ Im not very good with oil viscosity numbers, I read them as tempreture guides, so the number before the W i.e 5W for me is (cars engine starting tempreture) and the number after W i.e 40 (is the engines working tempreture) I know it might be a vague logic, But thats how i choose oils while buying them.

Get over the fact that Xli lacks power windows, Its an Xli because it lacks thoose features or else it would be a Gli or an Altis if had all the goodies.

The sump does not need to be removed, the allen key you use to remove the sump plug is also used to remove the strainer that is in there. Unscrew and you are done with the drain, a liter or less of oil is poured into the giant hex bolt opening so that it starts to drain from the sump - this pushes the old oil trapped in the sump depression. The oil not coming out full is only because that most of it is trapped in the torque convertor and in the clutches.

I dont know why the hell toyota acted like full retards and ommited the dipstick altogether. ATF level is checked when hot and with a fill and test port its quite dangerous as the fluid can severely burn you.

Your are very right, But the basic problems is that most of the cars dont come with the owners manual thoose that come are in Japanese, People are least bothered to google or use the google translator.

Other then that our mechanics have created such a big "Fatwa" that the CVT transmisson is a killer, (yes its rated worst for driving experience and reliability around the world) But its meant there to be for fuel efficiency and newer CVT are better off.

No body knows how to properly take care of these, (obviusly because its not a local make)

Like i mentioned the mechanics didnt know how to remove or what refill port to use to refill and then how much to refill, THey were using the method to remove ATF fluid, which some how worked good.

@spectra mentioned the method to changed ATF Fluid, It seems good but leting your car start and letting the fluid drop out at the same time seems (khatarnaak) not worth taking the risk.

Their is a thread on Pakwheels that has correct pictures of the CVT fluid removal and correct filler port, But i would recomend that the removal of the chamber and changing the gasket is not required. THe oil from the chamber pan can be removed with out opening the chamber, (that tube can be opened from outside the chamber as my mechanic did).

But since their is no dipstick, You are bound to use the orignal filler port or you would never know if you are using the correct quantity or not, to much and to less both can be dangerous,

Another way to check if the fluid is full is to put back the drain tube, and keep filling the CVT fluid untill it over flows the chamber and the tube starts to drip under the car. Then you can close the champer screw.

Get over the fact that Xli lacks power windows, Its an Xli because it lacks thoose features or else it would be a Gli or an Altis if had all the goodies.

the only correct way to check the level is to verify that the oil is sitting above the tube inside the pan. Why complicate a simple procedure. There is no external opening to test it in this transmission, the sump plug location is both fill and level test port.

Your mechanic did it correctly - just like Toyota recommends, remove the sump plug and then remove the tube.