Weihenstephaner has existed in one form or another since 1040 and is best known for its excellent weissbiers. However, a somewhat warm spring day recently prompted me to buy a number of European lagers after a winter season of heavier porters, stouts and barleywines. Weihenstephaner's Original Premium was part of that purchase.

The majority of U.S. breweries do not bother making lager beers, which are not as straightforward to make as ales. For one, lagers are fermented and conditioned at cooler temperatures. Ale yeast also is much more forgiving than lager yeast when dealing with temperature variations. Bottom line: It's easier to make ales.

What makes German beers such as Weihenstephaner's lager so admirable is their restraint and balance. Light 100-percent barley malt mixes with floral, grassy and/or spicy hops and a crisp body. There is nothing freakish or extreme about them — they are simply pleasant to drink.

Pouring the Weihenstephaner into a V-shaped pilsner glass is a sight to behold. A nice one-inch head forms, sticking to the sides of the glass. A turbulent cascade of bubbles make their way to the top of the glass through the crystal clear, golden liquid. It is almost hypnotizing to watch.

Grassy, floral hops blend with the fresh grain aromas, segueing directly into the flavor. The 5.1-percent ABV Weihenstephaner is truly balanced — you get a bit of the malt flavor, not much sweetness, then more of the hops. The bitterness is interesting — it is bitter, but in a way that slowly spreads as opposed to blasting your taste buds. It lingers slightly with some dryness after each sip.

After not drinking a beer like this since last summer, it was refreshing to reacquaint myself with an authentic German lager. What struck me the most was the prominent hop flavor. Although not overpowering, it was more noticeable than I remember about German beer, and a reminder of how much variety there is in hop flavor and aroma around the world.

Weihenstephaner is generally available at larger liquor stores.

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