England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th cen-tury. Design inspiration was often drawn flower or plant illustration in picture books and patterns included English flowers and plants. Realistic botanical motifs were another characteristic element in early 18th century textiles. Flowers and plants were given detailed three-dimensionality through tonal contrasts. The age of Rococo in the early part of the 18th century brought new designs of flowers and leaves gracefully winding off the sides of asymmetrically placed stems, In 19th century, classical and Soral motifs were reworked and symmetrically rearranged to create grander, more luxurious effects. The mid-19th century was the flourishing Victorian age in England. Tastes for floral motifs and eclectic, highly embellished old-fashioned patterns reflected the reactionary society of the day. William Morris was of those who resisted mechanical technology and eclectic, traditional designs. Father of the new Arts and Crafts Movement, Morris sought a purity in craft aesthetics. The designs that crossed the bridge from Art Nouveau into the 20th century. The representative textile styles of 20th century were Art Nouveau and Art Deco style

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expression and possibility of metaphor and metonymy as a visual communication means in the history of fashion illustration. The findings of this study were as follows : The 20th century ago, fashion illustration has shown a metaphor and metonymy in caricature and image drawing. From the 1900 to 1929, parody, etc. From the 1930 to 1959, it has shown a metaphor in figure's substitution by surrealism and metonymy in sim- plification. From the 1960 to 1979, it has shown a metaphor in illusion and collage. Since 1980, it has shown a metaphor in figure's transformation, distortion, combination of different kinds by postmodernism

The fast purpose of this research is to take a look at the concept and characteristics of Grotesque by under-standing it's historical background, In terms of Grotesque image as visual art, the research will be implemented from a aesthetic of arts view point. Second, the Grotesque image will be visually analyzed upon the theory produced and Fashion Dlustrated by Philip Thomson who first modernly defined and categorized the images into 'Discordance', 'Uncanny', 'Defonnation' and 'Anti-play'. The Grotesque image of 'Discordance' found in Fashion Illustrations had heterogeneous points, which were put together without blending in creating contradictory transformation, Producing visual tension. The 'Uncanny' image of Grotesque, shows the loss of human nature, neglect, fear and other features that reverberates society. At this point, signiCers expressed fright, uneasy feelings and mysterious situations by using automatism, being a fantastic mixture of shapes that manifests the Grotesque image of the unconscious world. The 'Deformation' images of Grotesque shown in Fashion Illustrations went so far as to magnifying and distorting certain parts of the human body, reorganizing the exaggerated images of body parts by using the technique of depaysement which transforms, omits and reduces shapes, creating an odd and ludicrous image. The Grotesque image of 'Anti-play' is an inspiration of conflict between com-ical features and mysterious or disgusting features. The images comically induce extreme terror, which disdains and mocks intimidations, creating a cruel sense of laughter

The purposes of this study were to: 1) reveal the consumer perceptions and purchase behaviors of 'CHI-MERIC', the co-brand of Daegu city; 2) identify the characteristics of the consumers who were aware of and purchased the brand; and 3) examine the brand image of 'CHIMERIC'. A total of 457 questionnaires collected from the region(Daegu)'s residents were analyzed. The results showed that despite the high brand awareness the rates of brand knowledge, Product exposure, and product purchase were quite low. Respondents who were aware of but had no expe-rience of purchasing the brand shared the same characteristics in age, marital status, and education in which they were different from the brand non-awarers and purchasers. Overall image of 'CHIMERIC' was relatively low, and the brand purchasers showed the higher perception of the brand image in reliability, Product quality, and value for money than did non-purchasers

Compared with male students, female ones perceive themselves to be heavier in the lower part than in the upper part of the body, and have round belly, thick thigh and big calves. 61.2% of the male students buy their jean slacks based on their waist size, wh3e 76.6% of female students do it based on their hip size. Those who are in the ranee of shorter heights tend to choose their jean slacks by their hip sizes, while those in the range of taller heights tend to buy them by their waist sizes. Most female students repair their jean slacks in the waist(61.8%) and/or 1ength(60.4%). Male ones tend to repair them in the hip area(76.2%) and/or crotch(72.1%). The areas of repair are different by age: group A4 repair mostly in the waist(32.7%), while 40.3% of the students in group A3 tend to change any area they like, such as in the hiP(38.1%), length of s1acks(33.6%), or crotch(45.2%). Female students seem to feel uncomfortable in jean slacks in all the areas but waist. By age, group Al seem to feel uncomfort in the crotch(31.4%); group A3 in the waist(41.9%) hiP(32.0%), knee(33.3%) and thigh(34.2%). The students in group Hl tend to feel more comfort in the waist(28.4%) wtu1e those in the group H3, in the thigh area(30.3%). The area that would make jean slacks more comfortable was the waist(61.4%) in the male students, and the thigh(61.7%) in the female students. By age, the area that needs more ease was the waist(40.8%) in group A3; the tmnmy(35.1%) and thigh(33.0%) in group A4, and; the crotch(29.8%) in group Al. By height, group Hl need more ease in the waist(38.6%); group H2, in the tummy(44.6%), and; group H3, in thecrotch(37.2%)

The study has been conducted for anthropometry with such methods as Martin measuring, Photography and plastering so that the characteristics and the variation of body surface of the lower half body among college girls in the early stage of 20s might be figured out. As a result, the body types were classified into three through the principal com-ponent analysis and the cluster analysis on the anthropometry measured by Martin measurer and photography data. The classified types are as following. Type 1; low obese, and remarkablely round waist and haunch. Type 2; the most obese, and longer legs against height with short haunch and crotch length. Type 3; slender long type with long lower half body with thin rounding waist and haunch. The results of analyzing the surface drafts are as following, In laying out the pat-terns, some extra portion will have to be considered because back waist, back haunch, crotch and its front are lengthened most during stooping oneself to 90 angle in the horizental variation of body surface. The vertical variation of body surface is shown in the variation of center front line during stooping oneself to 90 angle. Therefore in laying out the pattern design of slacks, some extra portion should be considered in order to arrange the flexible quantity of the center front line

The purpose of this study is to obtain the results for the dress form made from a Replica to be used in the clothing composition course. By applying the dress form that has individual somatic characteristics to the course of the composition of the clothing, one can increase understanding of the structure of human body and form. Other can inves-tigate the dress forms can be used for the basting at the time of flat pattern and as a practical body for draping at the time of draping with the consideration of the physical characteristics. For this, a Bodice type of practical clothing is made with the use of a flat pattern method and a draping method with respect to the dress form made of a Replica. The purpose is to carry out an external sensory evaluation. By using side-view picture, the dress forms are divided into three types : the standard somatotype, turning over somatotype, and bending somatotype. These three dress forms have distinctive characteristics, but almost no difference between them. And they are selected in order to compare the pattern and the finished line. The methods of the sensory evaluation analysis, namely a t-test and one-way ANOVA, are performed to compare these three forms and two prototypes. According to the results of this study, an occasion flat pattern and draping method are done with respect to the dress form made of replica the practical clothing that is made by the draping method has more prominent somatic characteristics, and it is more effective that of the flat pattern method. Therefore, by applying the dress form that has individual somatic characteristics to the course of the composition of clothing, the dress form made of a replica will be used for the basting at the time of the flat pattern, and it will be used as a practical body for draping at the time of draping with the consideration of the physical characteristics

This study was performed to provide fundamental data on junior-high school girls' somatotype by classifying the lower somatotype and analyzing the characteristics of each somatotype and to suggest a standard sizing system according to lower somatotypes. The subject were 236 Korean junior-high school girls. The subject were directly mea-sured anthropometrically and indirectly analyzed photographically. By direct measurement, 5 factors were extracted through factor analysis and the subject were classified into 4 cluster as their lower body front silhouette. By indirect mea-surement, 5 factors were extracted through factor analysis and the subject were classified into 3 cluster as their lower body side silhouette. After combining the somatotypes of the front and the side silhouette, we selected 4 basic soma-totypes, HH-b, H-l, AA-d and A-l, out of combination. The most frequent size were 73-94 in the HH-b type, 61-82 in the H-l type, 64-90 in the AA-d type and 58-82 in type A-l. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production

Moquette fabric was developed with ZSY(zigzag type space dye effect yarn) which was developed to give space dye effect. The properties of yam and fabric were studied using SEM, Abrasion tester and Dynamic loading tester. ZSY has a form of zigzag type crimP, no torque, and does not change in the cross section after the yam made, and has the space dye effect. Ec-mo in which ZSY used as a pile yarn had 41.0% of thickness decrease rate under 1,000 times of compression and 2.2% of weight loss rate under 7,0001imes of abrasion while Tg-mo in which 3 folded PET Qat spun yam used as a pile yam had 58.8% and 5.6%, respectively. Therefore, Ec-mo better than Tg-mo in terms of elastic recov-ery and abrasion resistance

The bar temple that the warp tension could be controlled evenly on the weaving me was developed to reduce the color differences between right and left side and center area of the fabrics and to be able to more stable for the fabric properties, In addition, it was easy to operate and to change from bar to ring temple. The fabric samples were woven with bar and ring temple installed on the weaving me and the function of bar temple developed and fabric properties were anal-ysed for the study. The results of the study were as follows : Time to change from bar to ring temple with bar temple developed was reduced over 97% comparing with the typical bar temple. The warn tension between both side and center area on the weaving me with bar temple was similar, while the warp tension between them with ring temple was of big differences that the warp tension of center area was higher than the both side area. In the analysis of fabrics woven with bar and ring temple, the warp tenacity and the color difference va1ue() between both side and center area of the fabric samples with bar temple was even, but those with ring temple was not even