Review on L'Ecrivain

A portrait gallery of Irish literary greats explains the name and provides an interesting talking point in Derry and Sallyanne Clarke's enduring fixture of the Dublin restaurant scene. Situated not far from St Stephen's Green, this impeccably manicured dining room is one of the city's Michelin stars and it scores heavily thanks to Derry's challenging, top-end cuisine.

He combines all the classic French virtues with inventiveness and a feel for the best of Irish produce. Roast turbot is paired with duck ravioli, spiced parsnip, Savoy cabbage and apple emulsion, while loin of milk-fed veal is dressed up in exotic style with a veal shank pastilla, butternut squash and pine nut gremolata and Parmesan foam. There are also other influences at work, witness seared rare tuna with wasabi tartare, crab salad, saffron vinaigrette and avocado purée or John Dory with smoked haddock brandade, aubergine caviar and light curry froth.

Desserts maintain the momentum with the likes of chocolate Manjori dome and Kirsch-soaked Griottine cherries or espresso crème brûlée with Mascarpone ice and a chocolate tuile. The lengthy wine list straddles the globe and it's liberally sprinkled with star names, although France remains the classic focus.

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