Hands-On The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph, Now With The Geneva Hallmark And In-House Caliber 5200

The 1970s gave birth to four high-end stainless-steel mechanical watches with integrated bracelets. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), the IWC Ingenieur SL (1976), the Patek Philippe Nautilus (also 1976), and the Vacheron Constantin Overseas (1977). The first three were all signed by Gerald Genta, during what many consider to be his creative peak. The other was an ambitious response from a talented 23-year-old named Jorg Hysek.

The 1970s gave birth to four high-end stainless-steel mechanical watches with integrated bracelets. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), the IWC Ingenieur SL (1976), the Patek Philippe Nautilus (also 1976), and the Vacheron Constantin Overseas (1977). The first three were all signed by Gerald Genta, during what many consider to be his creative peak. The other was an ambitious response from a talented 23-year-old named Jorg Hysek. (For many years, it was thought that Genta was responsible for the first Overseas; Vacheron has however confirmed for us that Jorg Hysek was responsible.)

Launched last, the Overseas (then called reference 222, in reference to the 222nd anniversary of the founding of Vacheron Constantin) was unlike anything else that had come out of Vacheron Constantin’s manufacture. They had spent more than two centuries making watches, but had never made a watch like this. It would be their first sports watch; and their last.

Vacheron Constantin’s relationship with Overseas has been on and off for the past thirty years. The Overseas collection appeared under that name for the first time in 1996, and was revamped only once in 2004. But Vacheron Constantin has renewed its relationship with its only sports watch in the best possible way just before the 20th anniversary.

Years of tentative attention later, Vacheron Constantin displayed its full commitment to the collection in 2016, presenting four new references at SIHH, including a bolder Overseas Chronograph with a larger case (42.5 mm vs. 40 mm), and a new in-house movement.

Vacheron Constantin keeps things sporty with a triple register layout at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and angular notches on the bezel. However, the lines of the case seem softened. The watch is rounder, now includes a circular ring between the case and the notched bezel, and the latter have been reduced from 8 to 6 in number.

Most notably, Vacheron has dropped the big date placed at 12 o’clock in the previous Overseas Chronograph in favor of a smaller window sandwiched at an angle between 4 and 5 o’clock (a la Zenith El Primero).

What the new Chronograph lacks in sheer bulk, it more than makes up for in refinement. Both dial variations, in soft grey and brilliant blue, presenting a superb sunburst look, and while I suspect the blue dial will be the more popular of the two, the former will appeal to those who prefer a more vintage feel. The watch oozes cool. The screw-down chronograph push-pieces have been downsized but remain very easy to use. The chronograph hand has a smooth start thanks to the movement’s vertical coupling clutch.
Originally born with a JLC movement, updated in chronograph form with a modified F. Piguet 1185, the Overseas finally has its own in-house caliber 5200. How much that matters is another debate, which we’ve gone into head-first here. However, it shows Vacheron’s desire to give the Overseas its own identity, and definitely closes the gap with Patek Philippe’s Nautilus.

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According to the manufacture, the new automatic movement, which bears the Hallmark of Geneva (a first for the Overseas) is the product of five years of research and development. Made of 236 components, it features a column-wheel mechanism, the aforementioned vertical clutch coupling system, and a power reserve of 52 hours.

Finished to Vacheron's usual high standards, with Geneva stripes, a decorated 22k yellow-gold rotor, and a Maltese cross for the column-wheel screw, the new movement can be admired through a sapphire case back.

The Overseas Chronograph comes in two versions, in stainless steel and in rose gold, priced at $28,900 and $49,000, respectively. Both watches are equipped with Vacheron’s new interchangeable strap system, with rubber, bracelet, and leather options, making them that much more versatile. The first is the most comfortable, the second the most natural, and the third the best looking out of the three.

Vacheron Constantin has been making sport watches for 30 years, but this could be the first they've made that's much more than a response. The new Overseas Chronograph is now a serious challenge to existing luxury sport chronographs.

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph. Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph functions, date. 42.5 mm. Caliber 5200, with column-wheel chronograph. 52-hour power reserve. More here.
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