Contributed Comments

Comments: Amazing climb in a great setting with the glacier valley down below. We found the climb civilized with the following rack: Full set BD Micro Stoppers, single set Aliens, double #0.75 - #4 Camalot. (Total of 3 #3s) Qty 1 #5, Qty 1 48 inch runner, Qty 10 24" runners, no quickdraws. We did not combine any of the pitches and would not recommend it. Towards the top of the 3rd pitch is an awesome handcrack that ends on a ledge with hollow blocks above, set your belay after th... more >>

Comments: The Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE) is currently seeking climbers interested in serving on the Action Committee Board. The board currently stands at nine members, including representatives from the American Alpine Club, the Access Fund, the American Mountain Guides Association, and the Colorado Mountain Club, and five at large members. Terms are three years.

The ACE holds periodic meetings, currently on the second Wednesday of each month at 5pm. Board members must attend these meetings and ... more >>

Comments: Did this route using Steve Levin's guidebook. Our goal was to do Crow's Landing but ended up taking the most vertical, straightforward, best rock quality line. According to Steve's guide, we did Crow's Landing to the second ledge, then Auntie Perspirant up to the belay. For P2 we did Odarodle which offered good protection but was not the best rock. I felt that what we did for P1 was 5.10 PG-13 and P2 was 5.8 PG-13.

Comments: My partner and I climbed this yesterday and we used the topo in Richard Rossiter's guide and found it accurate. On the 2nd pitch be careful to go left. After pitch 8 scramble down then up to the notch. Pass through the notch to the West side and traverse skier's left towards Sharkstooth. If you drop down towards Andrews Glacier/Creek trail you are guaranteed to cliff out. The traverse left descent is quite civilized and the end point is the large rock wall that crosses (dams) the valley floo... more >>

Comments: 150 people attended the slide show Friday night. We hope to have at least that many Monday night, October 26th 7pm, at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. Come on out for some free Avery beer and a great slide show to benefit the Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE). For more information about ACE check out aceeldo.org

Comments: The e-book looks amazing. I'm really looking forward to the hard copy. The quality of guide books keeps getting better and better. Thanks to Steve Levin and Sharp End for putting out a top quality guide.

Comments: The West Face contains one of the best knee bars that I've ever done on natural rock. The knee bar is of the horizontal type. Your left toe fits into a notch and your left knee is pushed up against a corner just below the first roof. At this position, you can comfortably place a RP and a number 5 BD nut to protect the roof. The knee bar provides a nice rest for a sustained old school 5.9 route.

Comments: The Grandmother's Challenge rap anchor (when rappelling from the tree down by Darkness 'til Dawn) has been installed. This anchor was installed with ACE hardware. A big thanks to all that donate money and or time to ACE and FHRC.

For those of you out there still trying to redpoint this route I highly recommend training on Vertigo (5.11) and Country Club Crack (5.11). I redpointed the route today by using a #4 CM just above the traditional belay. A #3 CM at the entrance to the c... more >>

Comments: My first time on P3 was on follow and no tape gloves. I was able to follow it cleanly but could not comment until I lead it. I was able to red point P3 my first time leading it. Tape gloves make the entire route a letter grade or two easier. Tape gloves were especially nice for P1. As for the roof / crux I would describe the climbing as more body jamming than hand jamming. To start the roof wedge the right side of your body into the crack so that you can place a green and red alien. After... more >>

Comments: Descent - Downclimb a deep V-Slot just to the north. Scramble just North of the large Juniper trees to find a camouflaged double bolt anchor. Rap number 2 is at the top of P1 of Sooberb. This rap will take you to a bench that you can walk off to the North if you angle the rope left (North). (60 meter rope, 2 rappels)

Comments: P1 - Begin with P1 of Red Dihedral, left-facing dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor. (70 feet) P2 continue up the obvious, left arching corner to the end and then straight up for a total distance of (100 feet). Highly recommend combining the two pitches for 170 feet of amazing climbing. Standard rack including a #3, 4 Camalot and a #2 and #3.5 for above the roof. Rap 1 from the top of Green Dihedral to the top of P1 Plane Geometry (80 feet) Rap 2 from Plane Geometry to the ground (9... more >>

Comments: New hiking trails in the area therefore updating directions:

To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo and turn left on County Road 67 (paved) right before the town. Go about 300 yards to a locked gate. Park here.

Hike up the maintained gravel road, avoiding a left after about 0.5 mile, and continue through a rock cut. Continue hiking up the road aka "Fowler Trail" avoiding a few single track trails heading off to the right. Continue hiking up the road avoiding roads that go off to ... more >>

Comments: The best time of year to visit Tassie is December and January. In addition to the web sites that John lists above there is a best of Tassie guide. Climb Tasmania "A Selected Best Guide" by Gerry Narkowicz. Note: Many of the routes in Tassie require double ropes and some doubles of gear. Be prepared for some challenging route finding. Best if you can hook up with a local to get acquainted with the area. Best if you can find a local on the internet or climbing gym. Possible to climb all da... more >>

Comments: In regards to the roof on P3. I highly recommend the roof if you are feeling strong. I've done the route before by going around to the right which offers great exposure but horrible rope drag. I did the roof clean by getting my left hip into the wall to place a #3 cam high in the crack. I then fired up with a left heel hook and a knee bar once above the crux. The shelf where you would like to put your feet below the crux is not safe. The rock is rotten and ready to fall off. I did n... more >>

Comments: Awesome Climb! P1 5.9 goes well using an Alien (5 - 10 feet) off the deck and a #4.5 Camalot once the crack narrows. An extra #2 Camalot with a standard rack; nuts, Aliens, and Camalots up to #4.5 protect the route well. Beta for the cave exit: I recommend stemming to place a cam just below the pin and clipping into the pin. You can then step back down and climb the route by hand traversing out on the rail. Heel hook / bump up with your right hand to the next ra... more >>