Smoked Oysters @ Nathan’s

Smoked Oysters @ Nathan’s

The menu at this Slidell bistro is evenly divided three ways. You have the basics of local cookery (seafood platters, steaks, pasta). The dishes Chef/owner Ross Eirich picked up during his stint as executive chef at Galatoire’s. And–most interesting–the original dishes he’s dreamed up in the four years since Nathan’s opened. This one is particularly impressive. Flour smoked in house coats the oysters, which are then fried. Over the top goes a honey butter sauce whose sweetness is subtle. Finally, crumbles of blue cheese. It’s much better than it sounds. And it sounds pretty good. It’s certainly Nathan’s signature appetizer these days.

Nathan’s. Slidell: 36440 Old Bayou Liberty Rd. 985-643-0443.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.