Black foamie thing / Black foamy thing

I use the black foamie thing (BFT) as a truly inexpensive flash modifier to flag my on-camera flash to give me lighting indoors that truly look nothing like on-camera flash.The piece of foam (Amazon), can be ordered via this link. I cut the sheet into smaller pieces.

The BFT is held in position by two hair bands (Amazon), and the BFT is usually placed on the under-side of the flash-head.

Oh….but we want the Neil van Niekerk deluxe, autographed BFT, designed to exacting specifications with gold engraving and specialized band holding the BFT in place….and we want to pay $99.99 for it…..LOL!

I like the idea of flagging the flash to create a softer light source. I recently bought by SB700 and i am gonna use a piece of the black side of the box as my BFT. I shall call it BCT, my “black cardboard thing”. That way excess light shouldnt be spilling over

I find your work just amazing, but above all, your honest and open sharing of your tremendously helpful knowledge and experience. Thank you.

Would you have any objections if I wanted to improve on the BFT design and sell it for profit on my website? Also, I would like to provide a link to your site from my website so that people can learn and benefit directly from the Master on the use of the BFT.

Hey Neil,
First, thanks for the outstanding advice and willingness to share your talents. On the BFG size… I understand its use is to stop the flash from going forward onto the subject, so, why would the length matter? I know its longer for when the flash is angled far over but does it have to go back short length on higher angles? Seems like I can just set it long and leave it. Does it matter?

If the BFT is larger than is necessary (ie, larger than juuuuust enough to stop the light from directly hitting your subject), then the BFT just eats up too much light. There is definite loss of light.

I just love that it has it’s own acronym! Reminds me of a “BLT” sandwich, except a “BFT” is slightly more functional. That aside, I’m glad I stumbled across your site via Flickr and hope to read through more techniques and advice on flash photography.

Hi Neil,
I use the BFT as often as I can. But I have one simple question. Is there a simple way to put that darn thing on the flash ? I always have some difficulties trying to put the elasting band around the flash and the BFT! :-)

I recently purchased the Spinlight 360, because I loved the way the LBFT was working. . .Forward to this weekends wedding reception and I found myself falling back to using the LBFT on my 580. I suppose it is just a matter of it being what I was comfortable with, but I just wasn’t getting the 360 to produce the same results.

You mentioned a 580, I’m assuming you mean a Sony 580 ? I’m also a Sony Shooter, as well as Nikon, but find myself migrating back to Sony. Have an A77, A99, and Nikon D7000. Looking to sell my a77 and pic up a good used A850. Just want to let you know there are other Sony shooters out here, just just CaNikon.

Keeping to the idea that we want to approach this like studio photography in how we place that “big softbox”, the bounced flash, then 30-45 degrees up and to the side would be best. Higher than that, then you rush getting shaded eyes.

It needs some experimenting.

“Too high” would also imply that you might not get enough light from your bounced flash, but this ties in directly to the size of the place (i.e., the distance you’re bouncing your flash), and your choice of aperture and ISO. Also, the color of the walls and ceiling will have an effect.

Again, you need to experiment.

And yes, you have to continually adjust the position of the head for however your subject is positioned. It can’t be static. Static doesn’t make sense, because then there is no consideration of the direction of light.

Dear Neil, Thanks a million for sharing all your valuable knowledge will us all. This is really great. All your tips are incredibly helpfull. I am most certainly going to look for a BFT here in Cape Town. Many thanks. Eddy

My husband gave me your book Direction and Quality of Light and from it I discovered YOU! Thank you so incredibly much for sharing your years of Photography experience and knowledge. I am excited to try the BFT! I think you need a book entitled: “Brilliant.”

First, thanks for being one of the givers in life. Very much appreciate you taking the enormous amount of time to teach what you have learned… and so effectively. A big thumbs up.

Second, does the front overhang of the installed BFT vary much from one situation to another? And if so, what is the max and the min in typical use? By front overhang, I mean the dimension from flash “lens” forward to leading edge of BFT.

It’s just enough of a lip to
– block the light from hitting your subject
– guide the light to where you want to hit the wall or whatever you are bouncing off
– not hit the person behind you with a full blast of flash

I made a “Black Foamie Thing” last week and pressed it into service at a relative’s wedding on Saturday http://jeffreykeyser.com/weddings/stephanie_and_david – I was a guest and did my best to stay out of the official photographers’ way, hence the minimal number of images.

Given my $0.99 investment and two hairbands (compliments my daughter), I am very pleased with the results, but feedback and suggestions are always welcome.

Bounce flash with BFT is definitely to way to go get that studio look from a single on camera flash.
Hey Neil. I noticed when you showed the example without the BFT, it looked like same effect you would get bouncing with a diffuser cup. Which reminded me why I stopped using those diffusers. With the exception of a 40-50 ft. ceiling.

Hello Neil, I never used BFT but I always used light modifier slapped under the flash with great results until someone ask me if I used BFT and I did not had a clue what he is talking about. Then he said, just google it and this is how I found about it. I can say that it does very good job for what is intended for.
Impressive idea!

I just wondered why you didn’t used a white one to give the light a bit of boost toward ceiling and especially if the ceiling is very high (like in churches).

I got through the article and all links there and I understand why you used black. My light modifier has on one side white and on the other side black and I am turning the sides depending on the needs. From the experience, when I was standing really far away from the walls and was not able to get closer I used white side to get extra boost or more light, Same thing when the ceiling was high, and it give me the excellent results, but I must admit that mostly I used black side and just on special occasions the white, unless I used external manual flashes.

The foam is more bendable and since it gives me the same results as my modifier I guess that I will make my own version of it. One side black and the other grey or white… Might experiment with other colors as well, like gold or silver, just to see the effects, like gold to give the pictures very light warm tone or silver for more cool contrast.

Thank you for all the good content. I tried the BFT yesterday and I don’t understand why I’m observing nearly one and a half stop down in my exposure, while working in TTL. This doesn’t make sense to me at all … Is it the same for you ? Do I have to compensate flash power up when I use the BFT ? Thank you in advance.

I suspect what is happening here is that you are already at the extreme end of what your flash is capable of delivering when you bounce flash, and then with the BFT added, there is further light loss.

Make sure you do the following:
– zoom to a longer length with the flash head,
– don’t have a massive piece of black foam that eats up all your light.
– the BFT is meant to be just enough of a lip to block direct flash from hitting your subject – it’s not a huge piece of foam. I roll mine back a bit, most often.
– make sure you hare within working range of what your flash is capable of doing, for your chosen aperture and ISO.

Just wanted to say using the BFT for the first time was amazing and produced amazing results on photos that were shot in a portrait position. However since, Im an event photographer and have to shoot in landscape as well I was able to produce the same quality of light. How would you suggest getting to same/similar results for a photo in a landscape position?

Neil I only wish I found your BFT idea earlier before wasting money on all that crap. I was truly amazed by the performance that inexpensive mod can magically render into a photograph. As I have very busy walls, I used large foam boards to bounce the light. Is that ok?

Hi Neil, excellent video. One question : do you use a fixed flash spread angle, or do you vary it according to the proximity with the wall (ex : close to the wall — use 28mm spread ; a little further from the wall — use 50mm spread) ? Basically you want a broad, diffused light… Also, do you diffuse the flash or do you use it bare ? Thanks — Ed Barbosa

Ed … I keep the beam of light fairly tight by zooming the flash head. The main reason for this is that if the beam is wide, too much of the light gets eaten up by the black foam. So it has to be a telephoto setting on the flash-head.

Neil, with the Canon 600EX-RT there are 2 “color filter sensors” located underneath the flash head. Is there any issue covering these with the BFT? The normal way you show the BFT on the flash would cover these. As always, thanks!

Tim, I don’t think it affects the camera’s choice of WB. That said, I always select the WB myself – I don’t rely on the Auto WB when shooting bounce flash with a gel already on the flash. That is where those sensors come into play – when you use Auto WB, so that the camera knows which gel you have on the flash.