Shuck Shack: A Taste of the Sea

Shuck Shack gives us landlubbers the seafood we crave

By Julia Celeste

Photos By Jessica Attie

The coastal horizon may be two hours away, but there’s still a dockside-inspired fish shack minutes from the heart of downtown San Antonio. It’s not sandy and there are no gulls circling, but it is reminiscent of the seafood huts you’ll find by the water’s edge. From the shipshape decor to the paper and plastic service pieces, you may think you are two minutes from the surf instead of two blocks from Pearl.

The best seats at Shuck Shack are at the bar, where amiable hard-working shuckers prepare dozens of fresh, raw oysters all day long. Ask them about the difference between the East Coast, West Coast and Gulf Coast varieties of the day (always listed on a hand-lettered sign on the wall) and they’ll happily explain the subtleties of each. While you’re at the counter, you might as well get a cocktail, too. There’s a full bar with wine, beer on tap, and creative bartenders who have a knack for dunking locally made paletas into boozy concoctions.

Like any good seafood shack, there’s fried food on the menu—including fish and chips (featuring whatever fish is fresh that day), cornmeal-breaded Gulf oysters served with skinny fries and craveable hush puppies mixed with white cheddar and jalapeño that are too good to ever pass up.

Yet it is one non-fried item here that keeps tongues wagging. Within days of opening in July, chef-owner Jason Dady seemed resigned to gripes about the price of the shack’s lobster rolls: $40 for a whole and $22 for a half. “We use an entire lobster, well over a pound in every whole roll,” he says. “We get the lobsters in fresh every day, cook ’em, remove all the meat from the shell and deliver the full tail, two claws and two knuckles in every full sandwich. I challenge anyone to get lobster in a restaurant anywhere else in town at this price. And we do all the work for you!” The lobster roll is the highest priced item on the otherwise moderately priced menu.

If price is an issue, order the shrimp roll for $16, which features tender shrimp cooked perfectly in brown butter and topped with sofrito and horseradish crèma. And if you’re just stopping in for a snack, the Cajun boiled whole artichoke ($8) goes perfectly with a cold beer, as do the two-bite deviled eggs ($5) topped with Kewpie mayo and seasonings.

Shuck Shack’s chef de cuisine, Cullen Holle, has spent the past five years working at all of Jason and Jake Dady’s restaurants. With help from others, the three spent last summer constructing the restaurant’s menu and the actual shack. Holle lives blocks away in Government Hill and says he is happy to see neighbors become regulars. “The family environment, with the play area and outdoor seating, makes this a great place to just walk to and hang out for a while,” he says. “I like having someplace I can walk my dog to, have something to eat and drink and walk home happy.”

He’s also happy about the menu. “We did a lot of research before we finalized the menu,” he explains. “I continue to tweak it and make simple changes to the coatings and other elements. But generally, even though I have a pretty free range in the kitchen, the menu is on target.”

Holle’s tips for diners include asking for butter on your lobster roll if you prefer it to a mayo dressing. “We make everything to order, so you should get what you want the way you want it,” he says. His favorite menu items? That’s easy, he says. The crunchy, spicy hush pups and the burger—it may not be among the shack’s seafood offerings but Holle says it’s among the best burgers in town. “The beef is from 44 Farms (in Milam County), and we grind it in house,” he says. “It’s a double-patty burger so you get a lot of great flavor.” Doing the meat justice is a slice of real cheddar, mild house-made pickles and a rich dill-infused aioli.

This fall, the restaurant rolled out a nicely seared jumbo lump crab cake paired with a seasonal salad full of ingredients from area farmers markets. Holle grates fresh horseradish into the cornmeal batter for the fried oysters, adding a touch of heat even without any dips. And despite the mild weather in San Antonio through the start of winter, the bowls of lobster bisque (loaded with flavor but not meat) and oyster and clam chowders seem to hit every table.

Outside, kids play while parents relax at nearby picnic tables. “We wanted to create a place where we could take our family,” says Dady, “where we could have good wine, cocktails, great fresh seafood and let the kids run around and be safe. I don’t think there’s anywhere else in town for this vibe.” Just don’t expect a sea breeze.

Don't Miss Dishes

1.Jen’s Salad is named after a family friend. It’s a simple but satisfying mix of chopped iceberg lettuce, tomatoes and green onions with a creamy avocado/mayo dressing. It’s a large portion, so plan on sharing.

2. The kids’ menu offers all of the classic kid foods: a single cheese burger, a hot dog or grilled cheese, all served with seasoned fries—but you can also get their palate primed for adulthood with kid-sized fish and chips. Real fish. Not fingers.

3. With three kinds of baked oysters, indulge in a mini buffet of Rockefeller, Casino and oysters baked with Texas BBQ sauce. The Gulf oysters give a plump and juicy base under the toppings.