Comments

The 3.2 is an American engine, built by Chrysler. It's a smaller-displacement, all-aluminum version of the 3.5 that first came out in 1993. The 3.2 put out 225 hp and was used in the Intrepid ES and Concorde LXI models from 1998-2001, and then was replaced by a reduced hp version of the 3.5.

Mitsubishi made a 3.0 V-6 that Chrysler used in their minivans, the Dodge Stealth, and some of the larger versions of the K-cars. Mitsu also made a 2.5 V-6 from around 1995-2000, that was used in the Sebring/Stratus/Avenger/Cirrus midsized cars.

I have a '96 Intrepid and I have several codes on my car. One of the codes, I knew for sure that needs to be done, but these other codes are just terrible. The codes that I have are: P1784(manufacturer control/transmission), P0401(EGR flow/insufficient), P1698(Manufacturer control/auxillary inputs/auxillary outputs), P0736(reverse ratio/incorrect). Is there anyone out there that can help me find the true problem that I am having with my car? I have had the pulley replaced due to the fact that the barriens were gone in it, the water pump, and alternator replaced already. PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!

hi i have a 2000 intrepid and the engine is making a tappin noise rather loud it seems to be coming from the top of the engine at the front just inside where the oil cap is. i changed the oil and had it flushed i also see its gettin oil up top. its gets faster with more reving. wondering if it might be timeing chain or something would really aprreachiate any opions or if ya need more info just let me know it still works good lots of power ect.. thx for any help

The pre 1998 3.5L engine is in no way related to the 1998 and later 3.5L or 3.2L engines. The later ones are aluminium block while the earlier ones were cast iron. The difference between the post 1998 3.2 and 3.5 engines is the cylinder bore.

if is a 2.7l, be real careful because your timing chain is loosing oil pressure; you need to change timing chain and gears, failure to do it, wiil cause engine to fail because of bent valves. that already happen to me.I had to repl. the engine because the 2.7 is too expensive. i had to use a 3.2 instaead if need more info send an email at raul3331@yahoo.com i will be happy to help you. engine swap is real easy and will save a lot of money. it will fit i did it in my 98 intrepid..

yes you can use a 3.2 or 3.5 instaed of the 2.7 just make sure that you get starter,a/c bracket,radiator alternator,throttle cable,and motor mount l/s, swaping the engine is real easy conectors are the same. the only little problem is cutting the exhaust pipes. cut pipes right after O2 sensors after first cat and before it goes down cut 2 inches on each side

I've always been intrigued by this, and thought it would be kinda cool to do with my 2000 Intrepid if the 2.7 ever went south. However, the car now has about 139,000 miles on it, so at this point I imagine if the engine failed, I'd be better off just junking it and getting another car. And if I wanted another Intrepid, just seek out one with a 3.2 or 3.5.

hey every one tells me not to get an dodge intrepid cuz of engine failur and did mercedes ever buy out dodge intrepid?

If you can find one that's been well-maintained and not too high-mileage, an Intrepid can be a good car. Personally, if I were searching one out, I'd try to find one with the 3.2 or 3.5, as they're better engines than the 2.7. More powerful, almost as economical, more durable/reliable, and cheaper to repair or replace when they do break down.

I forget now when Mercedes took over Chrysler. I want to say it was 1998? That never really had any bearing on the Intrepid, though. The first-generation Intrepid, which ran from 1993-97, was more troubleprone, especially in the transmission department. Air conditioning problems were common as well, and on the 3.5 engine, I think water pump and timing belt problems were common. The 3.3 was a good, durable engine though.

The 1998 Intrepid was much-improved, but that was all Chrysler's doing. Mercedes had no input. I'd say about the only influence Benz had over the Intrepid was in 2002, when they did some decontenting. On the base model, they eliminated a few standard features such as the rear sway bar, tint on the top of the windshield, carpeting and cloth on the door panels, a cheaper cupholder in the console, etc.

Oh, and with the Benz takeover, development on the replacement LX cars (300/Charger/Magnum) was pushed back. I think they were originally supposed to be launched as 2003 models, but Daimler/Chrysler kept pushing it back until they were launched in early 2004, as 2005 models.

Regarding the "merger": it must have been in 1998/1999. I ordered our Intrepid in 2/99 and took delivery in 3/99. When I was ordering, the sales folk were talking about the takeover and that for the first time new cars were showing up with DaimlerChrysler on the window sticker. Ours did. Daimler (Mercedes) had nothing to do with the design of the Intrepid/300M/Concorde/LHS. It's my understanding that the underpinnings of these cars go back to AMC? ??? :shades:

Daimler (Mercedes) had nothing to do with the design of the Intrepid/300M/Concorde/LHS. It's my understanding that the underpinnings of these cars go back to AMC? ???

I don't think the underpinnings of the LH cars were actually derived from AMC. However, the old AMC Premier/Dodge Monaco, from around late 80's/early 90's vintage, was FWD with a longitudinally-mounted engine/tranny. Chrysler might have studied those cars when they were designing the 1993 Intrepid and Concorde, but I don't know if any of their structure or underpinnings actually found their way into the LH cars.

I think the first Chrysler-badged vehicle that Mercedes really had a hand in was the Pacifica. It was originally supposed to be based on the LH cars, but then Mercedes held it back, to incorporate their own rear suspension into it, as well as other components.

Hi, my daughter has a 1995 Dodge Intrepid, 6 cyl., 3.5 liter. Lately, she has been starting the car and the climate control, power windows and reverse lights won't work. The ABS light is also on. I had originally thought it was a fuse but the windows are on a different fuse and some things on the climate control/ABS fuse still work. I changed fuses and relays and sometimes, after changing fuses and relays, everything will work for two days or a week and then cut out again.She recently told me that when she turns the key for power, but not start the car, the windows work but when she starts the car, the windows will not work.I'm beginning to think it's the engine control module, the computer. Or I'm thinking a short in one of the reverse lights or tail light? Any help?

97 Dodge Intreped 3.3L what is the normal PSI for fuel? How long should it hold the PSI at the fuel rail? I get 43 PSI and think that may be normal. ??? Asking because i have a missfire at Idle I can feel. But i have no ck eng light on. also if I make a quick stop in, Like at the 7-11, when I go to restart the car it does not start the first time, but always fire up on the second try. I thought I was loseing PSI at the fuel rail because i had to make 2 trys at the restart, but iv got 42PSI at the rail. sound like a Elect problem??

I have a 1998 /Dodge Intrepid with a 2.7 liter engine. It runs if I give it a charge but it knocks while you're driving down the road. . was wondering if it could be a simple fix that I may be overlooking, before I I go ahead and try and find another engine to put in it. I have also been told that the 3.5 and the 3.2 are better engines for this particular vehicle. Where should I start. Please help me!!!!!!!!!!!

My car will not start. I took it to several car places and they are giving me th run around about my car. First they said it was the wiring hornest, got that fix. Then they said it was the timing chain, that's not it. Then they said it was the cam sensor not that so they said that it's going to cost 1400 to get it fix but not for sure that is going to fix the problem. So i got it towed back home. I got someone to give me a jumpstart they said they did smell any gas flowing . What should i do now?

Then they said it was the cam sensor not that so they said that it's going to cost 1400 to get it fix but not for sure that is going to fix the problem.

How many miles does this car have on it now? FWIW, I had a problem with the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors on my 2000 Intrepid 2.7. The car would usually start fine, but then would just stall out at random, without warning. At first, it only happened occasionally, and would always start back up after it stalled out. But then it happened more and more frequently, and wasn't always so easy to restart. I took it to my mechanic, and he replaced both sensors, camshaft and crankshaft, plus fixed a broken vacuum hose for about $520 total. That was back in May, and the car has been fine ever since.

First thing you might want to do is try finding a mechanic you can trust.

No you can't use anything but the 2.7 without changing the subframe,firewall to engine wiring harness and computer. I have a 2.7 from a 01 that was wrecked that is complete less valve covers and upper plastic parts for $950 plus shipping (no core needed) kenwalker1@cxox.net

My son has a 97 Intrepid that won't start, have spark, air & fuel but will not start.The first time this happened we replaced the fuel pump relay fuse, the fuel gauge said there was 1/4 tank but didn't sound like it had anything in the tank. Added 5 gals gas and still wouldn't start. Tech at auto store said to hit the bottom of the tank while trying to crank and it started right up. He said the fuel float may have gotten stuck and not read right or a piece of debris had clogged the filter and we dislodged it after adding fuel. It ran fine for a week, didn't show no signs of problems then it wouldn't start. I don't want to replace everything on it just to eliminate the problem like others are saying they have done. How can I tell for certian its the fuel pump rather than the crankshaft or something else before going out to buy these parts...any suggestions?

StanThanks for the response! I don't have a pressure tester however when you push the pressure test port fuel does spray out. When turning the ignition I don't hear the fuel pump ingauge so thats why Im not sure if its the fuel pump ( hearing isn't all that great) but almost sure it didn't kick in or could it be the fuel pump regulator etc.

My 2000 Intrepid,with 97000 miles, has a knock coming for the left rear side of the engine. A said that there was,"...low compression in #5 CYL., after oil change #5 CYL. jumped to 90 psi. There maybe an possible Head problem or a sticking ring. The other CYL.'s has an psi. reading of 150." Do you think I should swap the engine with A 3.2 or a 3.5L? Or pay to have the cylinder head removed and inspected?

2000 dodge intrepid 2.7 keep over heating took 3 half hour too change thermostat put in new bleeder screw the hole piece front to back i was told to open bleeder start car let run to fluild come out bleeder i did still running hot bleed again use 3 and half anti freeze let run gage go all way up no heat inside car car have 196,000 miles but look good i try everything never buy dodge again

I was replacing spark plugs on my 2004 intrepid and accidentally broke one of the hose/tube. Can someone tell me what hose/tube that was broken by me and how can i fix it? Below is the link to see the image of the broken hose/tube in red circle.

I'm not sure, but it looks like some kind of vacuum hose. Could it be to the cruise control? Do they still use vacuum hoses and such, or are they totally electronic by now, I wonder? Actually, I'm taking my 2000 Intrepid, 2.7, to the mechanic this afternoon to get the oil pressure checked. The light flickers faintly on occasion, but I'm thinking it's just a sensor, wire, etc, and not an actual problem with the pressure. When I drop the car off, I'll show the mechanic that part on my car, and ask him what it is.