Trois Mec Restaurant Review

: Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo (Animal, Son of a Gun) teamed up with Ludo Lefebvre (LudoBites) on Trois Mec. It is located in the former space of Raffallo's Pizza --- and the sign still remains above the doorway. (In the window there's a sheet of paper declaring "No More Pizza" to help clear up any confusion.) Be aware that walk-in diners are not accommodated --- though they're welcomed at sister establishment Petit Trois next door in the former Tasty Thai space. In lieu of a traditional reservation system, there are a certain amount of "dining tickets" that are sold on the Trois Mec web site in advance. Tickets for the following two weeks are made available every other Friday morning at 8 a.m. There are two seatings each weekday night (6 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.) and the five-course menu costs $75 per person, excluding drinks besides water. (Tax and a service charge are added to the price at the time of purchase). Stepping into Trois Mec, you'll be greeted by the staff with a call of "Bonsoir!" over the blaring hip hop music and din of the young, cosmopolitan crowd. (It's a French version of the "Irasshaimase!" salutation that's a tradition at Japanese restaurants and shops.) The restaurant only has 24 seats --- eight of which are at the counter facing the kitchen, where chef de cuisine Doug Rankin (SAAM at The Bazaar by José Andrés, ink.) is in command when Lefebvre is away. The space is small enough that practically everyone can view the chefs in action. White marble and subway tiles on the walls contrast with the wood tabletops and bar, and custom-made bowls and plates from Heath Ceramics add an earthy touch. A meal starts with simple "snacks" such as a well-executed gougère and an interesting fried tapioca cube before continuing with dishes like a plentiful portion of crab ceviche with avocado, citrus and Peruvian jelly --- a nice play between sweet and sour. Unfortunately, we couldn't quite wrap our heads around the grilled cabbage leaf with smoked almond milk anglaise, miso flan and fennel pollen. A few morsels of confit squid were accompanied by white asparagus that was too hard and fibrous, though the white anchovies were a saving grace. This followed with a sort of "surf and turf" --- beef, shrimp powder, charred broccoli and smoked peanut butter --- that didn't seduce our palate. The dessert, strawberry cake with meringue and Chantilly, was more pleasing to the eye than it was appetizing. Dinner ends with mignardises such as fermented garlic caramels and chestnut petits choux. There is also one supplemental dish that can be ordered for an additional charge: English peas, chorizo broth, sea lettuce, grains. The menu is expected to change seasonally with the exception of the nightly special. Make selections from the short and pricey wine list or go with the wine pairings ($49), reserve pairings ($79) or non-alcoholic beverage pairings ($25). Service is efficient.