Wow! What a great climb with lots of spice. The first two pitches are mostly tame, but the third pitch had several ankle breakers and a bad rap anchor. I'd recommend just doing the first two pitches unless you really want the full experience.
Oct 28, 2017

When you reach the large clearing after the clearing for Manatee and others, drop gear there. Walk back up the trail and go up into the tree gully. At the top of the gully there is a large long detached block. This is the belay area.

P1: Go up the slab to the left side of bulge. This a small section of chunky quartz. Get gear below this, then move straight up to the far away first bolt. Continue straight up to reach a short slash at the same height as the detached pillar to the right. Get gear here and make the traverse right to the pillar. Climb past three bolts using the face then the water groove to reach the anchors. 200'

P3: 5.9R. Make a long runout right off the belay doing pretty sustained 5.9 climbing to reach some gear then the first bolt. A navy or white tricam may work well before the bolt. Pull the funky bulge using groove and chimney techniques. The next two bulges are both 5.9, but the gear is below the bulge in a slabby pod. If you fell pulling the last two bulges, injury is highly likely. Continue up to an old anchor with suspect nylon. These bolts should be replaced, or just skip the third pitch.

We didn't use anything larger than a #2 camalot. We placed one medium sized nut, .3-2, lots of slings for extension, and double ropes highly recommend for P1.
Oct 30, 2017