Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!

My edges are slightly pink as well. I have a slightly yellow/green oval-like discoloration that covers almost the entire panel and the edges are a slight pink; however, I've never mentioned this because it is very faint and indistinguishable in any real-world viewing. The only thing noticeable in real-world viewing is a yellow/green area on the far right of the panel that's increased in intensity. With VSUS set to high this area becomes indistinguishable in, I'd say, 80% of content where it was distinguishable with VSUS set to low.

Many Panasonic owners have this general discoloration (yellow/green overall with pink edges) going back a few generations of panels. You can read about it in any of the green blob threads on the main UK forums.

Yeah, I'd agree that the pink discoloration is not something I can see with real world content. I only mentioned it to Panasonic to cover my bases. Same thing goes for the yellow/green oval on my screen as well. I had no idea this was something going back so many years, though, so that actually makes me feel better about this. If they can just fix the yellow blobs, I'll be happy. Thank for the info.

The light blobs on the dark screen have no change. VSUS must not affect this.

The yellow and pink blobs on white screen have almost completely gone:)I don't think anyone else would notice anything if they were not looking. This is great.

I have a higher light output especially noticeable when ABL kicks in on a full white just as Chad said. This is so valuable on our NZ restricted sets.

As I had broken the rule of accessing the service menu I decided to make it count and calibrate the 2 point greyscale of THX cinema. I wrote down all the base settings first so as not to loose them. This is the only watchable setting on my TV for black level as my pro modes have failed so badly. It took a while but I managed to get a less than 2 delta on a 10 point sweep measure which is a pretty good result with the limited controls. Before I started I had way too much green, then red and the least blue. With no change to colour and 1 click down on tint I have a colour accuracy of less than 2 delta to go with it. Well done THX. Gamma is pretty flat around 2.2 -2.3

Now that I have finished it is outstanding to me. I can't believe THX cinema can look this good. Most of the speckles and noise seems to be gone from the picture and it is very clean. Gives the look of higher gradations.

It is all thanks to this threads help. I know it is probably not as good as your USA pro modes with even higher light output in and better blacks in pro modes, but it must be a pretty close second. I also am realistic about the long term risk of changing voltage.

My next plan is to measure the difference in light output between VSUS low and high. I will report back when I have done it. I would not recommend you guys take the risk of doing the service menu greyscale on the VT50 as you have all the necessary tools in the user menus.

I know it's been a while, but here are the pictures you requested Tom:

First, the SC Board:

Next, the SS Board:

Here are the two power supply boards; the first is the one with 3 trim pots (L/R VSUS and another I can't remember):

This power supply board is located directly below the one pictured above:

Finally, here is the above power supply board with the VSUS (and unknown) trimpots highlighted (red for the L/R VSUS and blue for unknown):

I haven't taken the back of the TV off since our initial attempt where we couldn't find a place to get the readings on a digital multi-meter. We did play with the trimpots and could notice significant improvement (if switching from low to high VSUS in service menu reduced blobs by 60%, we could turn the trimpots from 12-4 to reduce it another ~30%) but we didn't want to risk ruining the TV without proper voltage measurements so we turned the back.

Would replacing the power supply board with the trimpot possibly remove the issue? I have no idea but it was a thought..

I have checked out what effect the VSUS from low to high has on the display luminance. It looks to me that on my display it is a change in the Auto Brightness Limiter(ABL). This may well be why it helps the yellow blobs reduce. When I checked the light output on full field test patterns, the high VSUS is brighter than low VSUS. When I compared them on smaller test windows where the effect of ABL is reduced, they were almost exactly the same.

You can see the data I got in the attached PDF. I have also downloaded a service menu of an older panasonic plasma and it says to set VSUS when you replace the board. If you see too many dead pixels you need to change VSUS to the high setting.

I wonder if these blobs are just dead pixels or part thereof. Seen only when the panel runs out of power when ABL is working.Chadwicks pot methods may be the only way to get it perfect. Mine is pretty good now, but I am curious what my voltage reading would be.

I understood the blobs to be the result of incomplete gas discharge at the the lower voltage. I don't believe the blobs have anything to do with dead pixels. I have read however that setting the VSUS to high is one way to remedy dead pixels.

I wonder if these blobs are just dead pixels or part thereof. Seen only when the panel runs out of power when ABL is working.Chadwicks pot methods may be the only way to get it perfect. Mine is pretty good now, but I am curious what my voltage reading would be.

Don't know about dead pixels or just that the blue pixel isn't getting the right kind of charge to stay lit. In order to have yellow, you'd be missing blue and only having the red and green subpixels firing.

Just speculating.

Given your charts,though, I think I'll be changing my VSUS setting before I do my next calibration. Sounds like if anything, I'll get a more correct gamma given that I prefer window APL patterns.

Setting VSUS to high increases the probability of a successful discharge. Incomplete discharge can manifest itself as yellow/pink tint or dead pixels, among other symptoms, though in general dead pixels should be solved with a VAD/VE adjustment.

@chadwick I cannot see close details on those pictures, is there any way you can upload the full size files?

Can you see any point for VAD adjustment, or test?

Abs. Max VSUS on these panels is 220V from some documentation I have read, though it was for GT50 I understand they are quite similar on the electronics side which is the most important. I would not advise going above 215V due to the potential for a power supply shut down on bright scenes (due to current limiting.)

Don't know about dead pixels or just that the blue pixel isn't getting the right kind of charge to stay lit. In order to have yellow, you'd be missing blue and only having the red and green subpixels firing.

Just speculating.

Given your charts,though, I think I'll be changing my VSUS setting before I do my next calibration. Sounds like if anything, I'll get a more correct gamma given that I prefer window APL patterns.

Hi Jim P,

Which APL patterns do you prefer?Small or large? If I know I could check out the Gamma difference from the VSUS change.

Setting VSUS to high increases the probability of a successful discharge. Incomplete discharge can manifest itself as yellow/pink tint or dead pixels, among other symptoms, though in general dead pixels should be solved with a VAD/VE adjustment.

@chadwick I cannot see close details on those pictures, is there any way you can upload the full size files?

Can you see any point for VAD adjustment, or test?

Abs. Max VSUS on these panels is 220V from some documentation I have read, though it was for GT50 I understand they are quite similar on the electronics side which is the most important. I would not advise going above 215V due to the potential for a power supply shut down on bright scenes (due to current limiting.)

Do you think that if the VT50 has a VAD adjustment it could have a reducing effect on the black screen light blobs? The VSUS change seems to be helping the yellow blobs on the white screen, but not the light blobs on the black screen.

Which APL patterns do you prefer?Small or large? If I know I could check out the Gamma difference from the VSUS change.

I currently use a 5% window with a 18% surround brightness but that's only because it puts a load on the panel simulating real world content. The presumption is that you're getting some of the ABL effect factored into the calibration.

After the VSUS change, there may be a better APL combination but we won't know until we gather more information on what's happening.

One of our members have asked me via PM what the downside of this VSUS change would be. I don't honestly know but I'm proceeding with the idea that if it toast my panel, then I'll just get another one. Others may not see it the same way and may want to not try it without some expert telling us. Does anyone know?

I ended up taking the back off the TV again this weekend -- there are 3 trimpots in total on the main power supply board -- a L VSUS, a R VSUS, and a VDA trimpot. I tried to take pictures, but even with a decent digital camera I couldn't get the pictures to show the markings on the power boards.

I decided to experiment with the L/R VSUS trimpots (after taking pictures of their precise original positions). The trimpot labeled R can be adjusted from about 8-4 on a clock. Initially set at 9, anything past about 10-11 (regardless of where the L VSUS trimpot is) will result in getting blue "speckles" on the screen. I used a static, vibrant image from the PS3 Store for this. The result would be when moving the image you would get blue "speckle" retention for a few seconds where the pictures were. I adjusted this until I would no longer get any of these speckles (again, about 10-11 on the R VSUS trimpot). I then proceeded to tweak the L VSUS trimpot (which can go from about 10-6) that initally was set at about 12. I could set this to about 4 before noticing any of these speckles -- the further you are able to tweak these trimpots the blobs further disappear -- so it seems that perhaps the "best possible" fix you can do is set the R VSUS trimpot to the 10-11 position (or until you get zero blue speckles) and then adjust the L VSUS trimpot just before the point you get the blue speckles.

I didn't play with the VDA trimpot because (a) I didn't know what it would adjust, and (b) I can't find any test points or areas to find readings with a digital multi-meter. Any explanation on this would be much appreciated.

That being said, I'm going to watch some content to see how visible the blobs with these settings. I still have the back off at this point, so I can do some more testing if need be (or with the VAD trimpot). Again, I'm out of warranty so I guess worse case scenairo I have to replace the TV.. Panasonic isn't going to help me much anyways.

Great work Chadwick. I'm not going to dismantle my panel, but good to know that once my warranty is out I could possibly improve my blobs further. By the way...did you make these adjustments with VSUS on High? I'm assuming so but wanted to be sure.

It was very hard to get good pictures of it, but since the repair place asked me to I tried and tried until I was able to get a couple of pictures where it was visible and then I increased the color saturation until it looked a bit worse than it would even in person.

I assumed it was a panel defect and not something which could possibly be fixed by adjusting some pots. Still think it could very well be a panel defect.

Center is pinkish and the sides are greenish, it's especially noticeable when stuff moves through the green blob on the right of the screen.

When I first got the TV I noticed a strange green blob that was only visible when using the scrolling bar utility, but this disappeared after 80 hours or so of use so I forgot about it and didn't worry. Then at around 2000 hours or so I started noticing these new blobs... the pinkish splotch is about exactly where the green blob originally was if I remember correctly. At first it wasn't very noticeable, but now it's like there is no white on my screen especially when the ABL kicks in. If it's a view of the sky the clouds in the middle look pinkish and the ones on the edges of the screen look green.

PS. So does changing the VSUS setting affect how much/often the ABL kicks in? I'd like to reduce the amount ABL is used as much as possible without melting my panel from overheating. I hate ABL

Hey guys. So, the service techs just left my house after taking a look at the 65VT50. The guy said the yellow blobs are an odd problem that they hadn't seen before. The tech noticed another problem with my screen that I hadn't noticed myself. There is a fine green line running along the right side of the screen. He went into the service menu and popped up a few slides of different colors. When he got to blue, we both noticed a green line running the perimeter of the entire screen. That was a surprise to me. He said it shouldn't be there. He noted the purple haze around the edges as well.

The service tech told me that Panasonic doesn't allow a panel part replacement anymore, so that wouldn't be something they could try. He took a lot of photos of the screen and said they would be forwarded to Panasonic for a decision and that I should hear from them within a couple days or so. When I hear more I'll let you guys know.

I'll provide an update on my vt50 55" as well. Same service techs came out that had originally replaced the panel for green/yellow blob issue on both right and left sides. He didn't even bother replacing the A-board as was scheduled since he knew it wouldnt fix the problem. He took more pictures of this and contacted Panasonic. Just heard back today and Panasonic agreed to do a replacement with the new VT60. In about a week the service guys will come back with the new VT60 and take away the defected VT50. Hopefully this is a win and I have no issues with the new VT60. Good luck to you all on this issue.

I'll provide an update on my vt50 55" as well. Same service techs came out that had originally replaced the panel for green/yellow blob issue on both right and left sides. He didn't even bother replacing the A-board as was scheduled since he knew it wouldnt fix the problem. He took more pictures of this and contacted Panasonic. Just heard back today and Panasonic agreed to do a replacement with the new VT60. In about a week the service guys will come back with the new VT60 and take away the defected VT50. Hopefully this is a win and I have no issues with the new VT60. Good luck to you all on this issue.

How long did it take for you to develop the blobs ? Just curious if I might have a VT60 in my future You are in your original warranty period ?

I'll provide an update on my vt50 55" as well. Same service techs came out that had originally replaced the panel for green/yellow blob issue on both right and left sides. He didn't even bother replacing the A-board as was scheduled since he knew it wouldnt fix the problem. He took more pictures of this and contacted Panasonic. Just heard back today and Panasonic agreed to do a replacement with the new VT60. In about a week the service guys will come back with the new VT60 and take away the defected VT50. Hopefully this is a win and I have no issues with the new VT60. Good luck to you all on this issue.

Well done Panasonic. It's great to hear about your great customer service. This is a much better response than my result of, the panel is within specification and this is only a consumer display and isn't perfect. I wish you all the best and we all have to give Panasonic the big thumbs up for this one.👍

How long did it take for you to develop the blobs ? Just curious if I might have a VT60 in my future You are in your original warranty period ?

I'm not sure when they actually developed initially, but I noticed them after about 6 months of use. By January of this year it was pretty bad and could seem the one on the right all the time. After the techs did a panel switch it took only 2 months or so until i could see it. But then again I was looking for it this time. Its not as bad as the first time but I didnt want to risk it potentially getting worse. My original warranty period ran from July 24th 2012-2013. They said that as long as its the same issue that you contacted them about within the warranty period, and problem persists after that period, that they are still liable to fix the problem.

Well done Panasonic. It's great to hear about your great customer service. This is a much better response than my result of, the panel is within specification and this is only a consumer display and isn't perfect. I wish you all the best and we all have to give Panasonic the big thumbs up for this one.👍

I have a feeling that I got lucky due to the fact that they originally addressed the issue the first time around. I doubt they could have given me the "within specification" response with regards to the same issue with the seond panel. It was definitely a process of them trying to fix it with parts first, but all in all it wasnt a terrible experience.

I'm not sure when they actually developed initially, but I noticed them after about 6 months of use. By January of this year it was pretty bad and could seem the one on the right all the time. After the techs did a panel switch it took only 2 months or so until i could see it. But then again I was looking for it this time. Its not as bad as the first time but I didnt want to risk it potentially getting worse. My original warranty period ran from July 24th 2012-2013. They said that as long as its the same issue that you contacted them about within the warranty period, and problem persists after that period, that they are still liable to fix the problem.

Thanks for that info, I will be keeping an eye out for the issue on my set. Hoping to not see it. Enjoy your VT60 one heck of a set from what I have heard

I have taken a few photos to show you my improvement on the yellow blob issue before and after VSUS change.

Vsus Low:

I have also noticed that the blobs reduce if you leave the white screen on for a period. It is like they fill out and slowely become whiter. Of course they come straight back after a darker screen is shown, so this doesnt really help, but is interesting. You can also see on my right hand blob it has quite a bit of blue around the bottom of it, and also some green. Quite ugly.

Vsus changed to high

This is much better with the blobs all but gone. The photo makes it look like the white has quite a bit of tint in it. This is just the photo and looks much whiter in reality. I can notice like some others have said a little magenta around the very outside edges. This is not evident in regular viewing anymore as it was before, unless a commercial comes up on the TV with an all white screen with limited text.

I have still not been able to fix the dark screen issue with light blobs Here is a photo in professional picture mode 1 where the problem mainly is:

It is very hard to get a nightime shot, but here is an attempt. you can see the light blobs in the same zones as the yellow ones.In the middle of this image I have displayed a 1% grey test pattern as a comparison. You can see that the blobs and the 1% grey are much the same MLL.The funny thing is as you leave this dark screen image up the blobs get worse over time. This is the complete opposite to the yellow blobs fading with time. IIt happens over the first few seconds.

These two issues must be related. If I can change voltage to improve the yellow blobs I wonder how I can change a different one to improve the dark screen ones. Maybe the secret lies in the other VAD trim pot.

The good thing is I can watch my DIY calibrated THX cinema with the improved yellow blobs with far better blacks than Pro1 and less of this light blob issue. My main reason for wanting to improve the light blobs on dark screen now is they show up quite badly in 3D mode for some reason.

Just wanted to give an update -- I was able to take the back off my 65VT50 again this weekend after doing some research and talking with Tom669 some more. He suggested the VSUS should read between 210v-220v on a full white screen (I entered service menu, went to VSUS and selected the CONF screen before it saves the setting as it is the whitest, brightest screen I could think of). I had changed my VSUS trimpots on the power board back to factory spec -- they read 199v and 209v respectively. Adjusted them both to read 215v and observed -- blobs could hardly be seen on the VSUS CONF screen. Adjusted to 218v, blobs completely gone.

Flipped through the test patterns to check for blue speckles (I was getting these when I had the VSUS turned up too high) and didn't see any. Turned on my PS3 and went to the PS3 store where I was able to replicate the blue speckles prior and was still getting some speckles. Decided to try turning the VSUS to low (just to see what the difference between high and low was) and got a reading of 210v on the VSUS CONF screen. So, the difference between VSUS Low/High is +/- 8v. I couldn't get blue speckles on any screens and the blobs are completely gone on any content -- I watched a replay of a Stanley Cup game on NHL Network and the blobs weren't there..

I'm sure it's a combination of a couple things, but in reading through a couple different training manuals from the 2011/2012 series, the 65GT and 65VT are the only TVs that have two seperate trim pots for VSUS. Perhaps supplying these with perfectly even power (and getting the VSUS within spec) is all that was needed..

I haven't played with the VAD trimpot because Tom669 said that without knowing the proper spec for the VAD it's incredibly harmful to play with the trimpot. If anyone can find a service manual or spec sheet with the VAD range listed (or if anyone with a blob-free 65VT50 wants to take the back off to get a reading), I'd be more than happy to try a tweak, but for now I'm just going to sit back and enjoy my now blob-free 65VT50.

I set both trimpots with VSUS set to high on the CONF screen (where you are able to "write" aka save the changes) -- I tweaked the trimpots til they read 218v each. Then, I switched to low VSUS and went to the CONF screen and the same trimpots read 210v each -- just confirmed with Tom669 that there is no difference between High/Low VSUS other than the voltage change. Tom recommended anywhere between 210v-220v, so to me this allows me to adjust and still be within spec on both settings -- I don't really play many video games, so perhaps during hockey season (or if I catch another game on NHL Network) I can try switching from Low to High VSUS to see if there is any difference? Not that I really need too..

Like I mentioned, at 218v or High VSUS I get the blue speckles on certain screens if I leave the image sit for 15sec or so (Playstation 3 Store with vibrant colors) -- 210v or Low VSUS no speckles whatsoever. I can't see the blobs that were apparent during hockey games anymore -- which is what started this all in the first place. Is it completely 100% fixed? Not sure, but for a guy without warranty it sure is =D

I set both trimpots with VSUS set to high on the CONF screen (where you are able to "write" aka save the changes) -- I tweaked the trimpots til they read 218v each. Then, I switched to low VSUS and went to the CONF screen and the same trimpots read 210v each -- just confirmed with Tom669 that there is no difference between High/Low VSUS other than the voltage change. Tom recommended anywhere between 210v-220v, so to me this allows me to adjust and still be within spec on both settings -- I don't really play many video games, so perhaps during hockey season (or if I catch another game on NHL Network) I can try switching from Low to High VSUS to see if there is any difference? Not that I really need too..

Like I mentioned, at 218v or High VSUS I get the blue speckles on certain screens if I leave the image sit for 15sec or so (Playstation 3 Store with vibrant colors) -- 210v or Low VSUS no speckles whatsoever. I can't see the blobs that were apparent during hockey games anymore -- which is what started this all in the first place. Is it completely 100% fixed? Not sure, but for a guy without warranty it sure is =D

Slow brain today...So if I understand your process, you toggled to display High VSUS, adjusted the trimpots to 218v each, then left it at VSUS = Low for your final viewing choice?

Haha, I could've been a little more clear. Yes, we toggled to High VSUS and calibrated to 218v thinking it would be within spec and no side-effects. Toggled to Low VSUS without adjusting any trimpots and got 210v. Recorded the +/- 8v difference between the two and then set the VSUS to high. Honestly, we couldn't see the blobs at either low or high VSUS (210v vs. 218v) and weren't getting any adverse effects (blue speckles) so we closed it up and put it back on the wall. I initially left the VSUS at high (218v) but I was able to produce some blue speckles the next day so I switched it to low VSUS (210v) and haven't had any blue speckles since -- and no blobs.

I think (my blobs at least) were a combination of a couple different things -- even on high VSUS before we calibrated, I had readings of 209v and 199v -- both below panel spec. Turning these up/down even without measuring voltages you could see the difference in screen uniformity (bigger blobs, smaller blobs, no blobs, etc.) but it wasn't until I had them both at the same voltage (ie. 205v each, 210v each, 218v each) that the picture looked uniform. Perhaps my set has another issue with the blue speckles at higher voltages, but I have no way of testing that without another 65VT50.