Any help would be greatly appreciated. The water in my TOTO Drake tank would not stop running; I repalced the flapper and that didnt solve the problem. I then replaced the seal inside the fill valve (with a Korky 528 replacement cap) after cleaning the other parts. That stops the constant filling but has led to a new problem. As the tank finishes filling the pipes in the whole house rattle and stutter for several seconds until the fill is complete. I can minimize the nuisance by closing the water supply to almost shut but this is obviously less than ideal as it takes forever to refill the tank.

Any thoughts on what is happening? Could I have missed something when I replaced the inside cap on the fill valve? Thanks in advance

When the toilet would not stop running, did the water overflow into the overflow riser? It may be that you did need to replace that flapper and now you are dealing with a second issue.

My knee-jerk reaction is that if the Korky is kind of sticking when it's turning off, then perhaps the float isn't reinstalled correctly and is binding a bit as it shuts off. I would just do the process again. Turn off the water at the toilet. Flush. Pull off the refill tube (which, presumably, is daylighted above the lip of the overflow riser; otherwise that could cause the toilet to continue to run). Pull off the blue cap on the 528. Pinch the float arms like tweezers. Remove the float. Twist off the cap. Pull out the interior tube. Pull the strainer out of the bottom of the tube. Rinse everything. You can even wipe a bit and make sure everything is all clean. Then, reassemble: white strainer back in tube. Tube back in valve. Cap back on. Reinstall float. Make sure that you hook it in so it moves freely. Test that it's freely-moving. Blue cap back on. Refill tube reattached. Turn water back on and see what happens. You might make sure that the water valve at the wall is all the way open, as well.

Have you seen the video from Korky on how to service the valve? It's helpful to watch someone else do it:

Before you do anything, make sure the fill tube from the fill valve is directed into the overflow tube. If it's pointed into the tank, the waves it makes will rock the water level and cause a stuttering shutoff.

If this is okay, then you may have a bad shutoff valve. Most of the time, those are better left fully open, but that doesn't work, I would replace with a new 1/4 turn.

From my experiences, The Fluidmaster 400 series overfills "all" bowls.
I shot video of one American Standard toilet that overfilled the bowl by two gallons.
The toilet was on a stand and draining into a fish tank that was marked.

At the price of water now, they would wind up costing the homeowner a lot of money every year.

From my experiences, The Fluidmaster 400 series overfills "all" bowls.
I shot video of one American Standard toilet that overfilled the bowl by two gallons.
The toilet was on a stand and draining into a fish tank that was marked.

At the price of water now, they would wind up costing the homeowner a lot of money every year.

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The Fluidmaster 400 in my new AS Cadet 3 1.6gpf under fills the bowl. I measured it and it's using exactly 1.6 gal.

I've done these repairs hundreds of times.
And you actually bought a Cadet 3?
Wow!

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Not following you. The Fluidmaster in a Toto isn't what you'd buy anywhere? The AS Cadet 3 parts list calls it a Fluidmaster 400A and from what I've read, they switched to Fluidmaster but sure when. I bought the AS before even finding this Toto loving, breathing crowd here.

Typically the Fluidmaster is not installed with a TOTO. I've seen plumbers that install them, they are easy to adjust for water height. The basic 400A has no adjustment for bowl fill.
With a 1.6, since the tank loses little water, it's not so bad, but in the old five gallon toilets, by the time the tank fills, the bowl has filled several times.

TOTO...........what's not to love?

Less then 1% returns and I get lots of repeat sales out of them, their friends and their coworkers.
When I switch it up, I'm not so lucky. Nobody "likes" going back............for free..................Nobody.
It's about time.............there is only so much of that..............and short conversations with the customers. If they like what we sold them, I'm happy too.

Years ago, I used to sell a few $99 toilets. I had one customer that bought one of those, got the $80 rebate from the city...........and her home was so poor looking that I threw in for free a flange repair and a new shutoff..............something that I normally would have added $100 for on the bill.
She turned me in to the BBB and Attorney general because she didn't like her $99 toilet. She got $180 worth of free stuff, and she complained. (They thought she was a little nutty too.)
After that, I quit selling anything in that price range. Why go through all the hassle of "hoping" some down on their luck cheapskate isn't trying to get what I'm selling for nothing?
When I drop those customers, and sell quality to let's say "middle class" customers...........I get to sell them something "they" love.
They're happy, and I'm happy.

And I am a bit grumpy today. I've had bots on the site since last night trying to spam it all up. I've deleted about fifty of the little buggers in the last 24 hours. They want something for nothing too.

Hi! I purchased a Toto Drake Elongated ADA height with Sanagloss back in 2008. We never got the water softener installed so the iron has done a number on the inside of the tank, which probably doesn't help the mechanisms inside.

Awhile back we started having a problem where the external lever would just stick once it was pushed down and we had to physically tap it or pull it back up. Then it just broke and can't come back up. I figured we just needed a new lever. Then we started having a problem where the tank would start to fill and it would just keep running but the water level in the tank would never reach the proper height. I shut off the water and cleaned the flap and the surrounding area, but it didn't do any good. The flap itself appears to be fine and if I pour water into the tank via a bucket the water seems to stay in the tank.

I'm guessing it is the fill valve that came with the toilet that has gone bad. Does that sound right?

I was reading the recommendations on which fill valve to get and I wasn't exactly sure. I was trying to pick the right one.

If I get either of those, and get a new flapper, which one should I get?

or a blue one called

Also, since I need to get a new lever, does it have to be the TOTO THU068-CP or can I pull off the lever part and replace it with something else? Will that thing come apart? What other levers (if any) will fit? My mother wants to have a fancier lever for some reason.

Am I understanding correctly that the Korky version is better than the default Toto fill valve that came with the toilet?

Currently we are having to forcefully pour buckets of water into the bowl to make it flush since it seems to take more water to fill the tank than to use that method. It is a total P.I.T.A.. Once I know what we need I will order the parts.

Thank you in advance for any replies.

PS. I found the video helpful. I hope that the original Toto valve will be that easy to remove.

This is a bit behind the OP, but I'll toss it in FWIW. The problem may not be too much pressure, but every homeowner should know what the pressure is in the home. Too much is damaging to not only the toilet, but dishwasher and clothes washer that have valves that are constantly under pressure. They are not designed to last under high pressure. Your other faucets may withstand the added pressure OK, but pressure over 60 psi is really unnecessary and over 80 psi is really excessive. Pressure gauges are available at almost any hardware store for just a few dollars. If the pressure is over 80 psi, you are really pushing the envelope and a pressure regulator and thermal expansion tank should be added and the pressure adjust to a safe level. Toilet supply valves should always be full on. Shutting a valve partly does not reduce pressure, only flow.

Lowes Hardware carries the 528MPK valve, which is like the 528T except it will work with more toilets.

If you have a Drake, it's the Red Flapper, also sold at Lowes.

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Thank you! It's actually cheaper at Lowes-- I hope that they actually have it in stock up there. Those site to store things where they say it will be available "today" never actually work out that way in my experience. I wonder if I will even need a new flapper if the old one is in good condition. I suppose I can try it out and if the old one doesn't work then I can get a new one. I should probably pick up a new one and keep it on hand just in case.

Your question about the lever: there are lots of levers from many manufacturers available online and at your plumbing supply that will work with that Toto; you just need one that is appropriate for the location it is in the tank (i.e. side lever).

And remember that the toilet lever is one of the only reverse-threaded items that you'll find in the house. That is, instead of lefty-loosy, righty-tighty (i.e. clockwise to tighten), you will turn the nut clockwise to LOOSEN the nut holding the handle in place, and counterclockwise to tighten it.

From my experiences, The Fluidmaster 400 series overfills "all" bowls.
I shot video of one American Standard toilet that overfilled the bowl by two gallons.
The toilet was on a stand and draining into a fish tank that was marked.

At the price of water now, they would wind up costing the homeowner a lot of money every year.

Click to expand...

Fluidmaster is selling the 400ARHR - their answer to the 528MP. I like the Korky's better for a few reasons, number one being that you set the water level and it refills spot on to where it's set time and time again unlike the 400A, and they seem more rust resistant. The 400ARHR has the adjustable refill rate just like the 528MP.

This is a bit behind the OP, but I'll toss it in FWIW. The problem may not be too much pressure, but every homeowner should know what the pressure is in the home. Too much is damaging to not only the toilet, but dishwasher and clothes washer that have valves that are constantly under pressure. They are not designed to last under high pressure. Your other faucets may withstand the added pressure OK, but pressure over 60 psi is really unnecessary and over 80 psi is really excessive. Pressure gauges are available at almost any hardware store for just a few dollars. If the pressure is over 80 psi, you are really pushing the envelope and a pressure regulator and thermal expansion tank should be added and the pressure adjust to a safe level. Toilet supply valves should always be full on. Shutting a valve partly does not reduce pressure, only flow.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the suggestion! I actually was thinking about the pressure and wondering if it was too much or too little and how to check it. I really don't even know where the parts you mentioned would be installed.
About 3 months ago I kept having problems out in the pump house with the water well. The lever that tells the compressor (that pumps the water up into the cistern/holding tank) kept sticking so the compressor kept running. Well, even a few months before that it had sheered off one of the pulley wheels and I had to replace it, but eventually the motor in it died. We just didn't have water all of a sudden in the middle of summer. The old pump guy we called is now senile and he forgot to come out and we ended up waiting over a week before someone gave us the number for a reliable pump & well person. He came out and said we needed a new compressor. I won't bore you with details, but it was not easy to get our hands on one with such short notice but we managed and got it set up. Then the pipes connecting to the cistern blew apart and actually came out of the cistern. The pump guy was not available so we called our usual plumber who came out, took one look at it without touching anything, said "You'll have to get a pump man", charged $65 and left. We were able to get in touch with the pump guy who had to climb inside the now empty cistern (bc the pipe had come out and water had poured out) and have someone on the outside hold the pipe while he screwed it back on from the inside. Then we discovered that the pump had burned out. We were desperate for water and the weekend was approaching so we made the mistake of buying some piece of crap Countryline jet pump that claimed to pump 21GPM but was extremely weak. That thing lasted about 3 months before blowing a ball bearing. So this time we were patient and waited a few days for the pump guy to get the new pump (which turns out to be the same as the original pump-- not the Countryline thing). It says it is 15GPM @1HP but it has better water pressure. It's a Gould pump. Our old one probably would have lasted longer if not for the plumbing leaks and frequent power outages/surges. Anyway, that was off topic... LOL. It was not fun when we went through all the problems, but looking back it is sort of funny that it all happened like that.

On a website question: Why does it say I'm in Kansas? I never picked that as a location and I've never been to Kansas. I know running an IP trace seemed to lead back to Kansas because I have satellite internet.

I really do appreciate all of the responses.

I forgot to mention that I called Lowes and they said they had 4 of the Korky MaxPerformance valves on the shelf. Hopefully we'll be able to pick that up in the afternoon.