Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

2015 TRAPPS CLIFF PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE

Routes between and including the climb “MOONDANCE” (5.6) through to the climb “AFTER THE PRICK” (5.4) are closed as of March 25, 2015 and will remain in place until the fledging has been confirmed. This extends from the right side of the Slime Wall through the right side of Sleepy Hollow.

DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.

DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.

PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

How could this be 5.6? Overhang after overhang, this route weaves its way up some steep rock.

To start, follow a crack that angles up left to the first set of overhangs then up right through a notch to a good ledge.

The 2nd pitch tackles a hanging right-facing corner directly over your head. It's steep right off the ledge and if the starting footholds break, you'll land on your belayer. After swinging around left at the top of this corner, you'll be faced with the crux bulge. Above, head up right to find another belay. The first two pitches could be linked, but the rope drag would be horrendous.

The third pitch follows a right-facing corner, shared with Dry Martini, until a steep hand traverse to the right to another right-facing corner which takes you to the top.

Location

From Credibility Gap, walk left about 60 feet; further left is a big left-facing corner capped by a big ceiling. Alternatively you can approach from the Mac Wall by walking to the right about 200'; look for the deep left-facing corner where Dry Martini starts, and the left-leaning crack of this route is another 20' right of that.

Protection

Standard rack. There was a sketchy fixed-nut anchor above the 2nd pitch. There are also trees at the top. We chose to walk over to one of the more frequented rap routes...

I felt that this is as difficult or harder than Shockley's, in a different way.

That being said it is an interesting, and typically Gunks pumpy roof. Being taller definitely helps on this roof, short people beware that there's several tough hand holds as you're working your way up the crack with little help from your feet. It's a hefty layback. [We opted to bail on the last pitches due to wetness from rain the night before, but will return to finish it someday]

Cannot recommend this route for a new leader. The crux is the first overhang and the holds are not great. Make sure to get a couple of bomber pieces in before and make sure your belayer is ready for a catch.

There's now a rap station on a tree at the top of P3. Two 60m ropes will get you to the ground.