I used to run Chromoplastics like you, but switched to Longboards as I found that the lack of a mudflap on the Chromoplastics meant I still got wet feet if there was significant water around. In terms of fit they're exactly the same setup as the Chromoplastics, so if you fitted those you can fit these. I run mine on a flatbar road bike and they fit fine, but they have a tighter clearance on the front fork, so that's worth checking (PM me if you'd like width measurements). Over big bumps they would contact the fork on my bike giving a buzzing sound, but a few judicious bits of pipe insulation foam wedged between the fork and guard fixed that. In terms of toughness their construction seems to be more solid than the Chromoplastics but that's only an opinion based on feel.

I have long boards on a cx bike running 32 or 35 mm tyres (the frame will take 42mm so plenty of frame / fork clearance). I find them very robust with little rattle, squeak or hum. The bike also has bb7 discs so needed some spacers for the front and back plus some wire stay bending was needed to clear the brakes. Took a few hours of fiddling to fit well.I would recommend them as on the road they do keep the road muck and grime off. Not sure about long distances on lots of clay type mud but being poly they should shed the mud quite well.I have the beige ones running on an orange bike and they look quite good. Also worth noting if you take your front wheel off to drop the bike in the back of the car you may find these things will make the size of your bike much bigger.Riv bikes have a vid on fitting them… ( http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/fe2.htm ) Here http://youtu.be/lG_WZVS9SUY

baabaa wrote:I have long boards on a cx bike running 32 or 35 mm tyres (the frame will take 42mm so plenty of frame / fork clearance). I find them very robust with little rattle, squeak or hum. The bike also has bb7 discs so needed some spacers for the front and back plus some wire stay bending was needed to clear the brakes. Took a few hours of fiddling to fit well.I would recommend them as on the road they do keep the road muck and grime off. Not sure about long distances on lots of clay type mud but being poly they should shed the mud quite well.I have the beige ones running on an orange bike and they look quite good. Also worth noting if you take your front wheel off to drop the bike in the back of the car you may find these things will make the size of your bike much bigger.Riv bikes have a vid on fitting them… ( http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/fe2.htm ) Here http://youtu.be/lG_WZVS9SUY

warthog1 wrote:Are the mudflaps on the longboards removable. I'm also thinking of getting them but would like to know if the mudflaps can be removed if I decide to.

You could removed them easily enough, they're only held on with a plastic pin/ clip type arrangement. You'd probably break it by doing so though, although you can pick up spare mudflaps with the fitting separately.

warthog1 wrote:Are the mudflaps on the longboards removable. I'm also thinking of getting them but would like to know if the mudflaps can be removed if I decide to.

You could removed them easily enough, they're only held on with a plastic pin/ clip type arrangement. You'd probably break it by doing so though, although you can pick up spare mudflaps with the fitting separately.

Thanks, does that mean you can also fit them to std 35mm chromoplastics?

I like the longboards but the only place I can find them listed as 35mm wide is on the evans cycles web site. The sks web site only lists 45mm longboards which are going to be too wide for my bike.

warthog1 wrote:I like the longboards but the only place I can find them listed as 35mm wide is on the evans cycles web site. The sks web site only lists 45mm longboards which are going to be too wide for my bike.

warthog1 wrote:I like the longboards but the only place I can find them listed as 35mm wide is on the evans cycles web site. The sks web site only lists 45mm longboards which are going to be too wide for my bike.

Although probably no advantage getting them from the US. Why don't you just get the 35mm Longboards from Evans, or is the budget already too stretched?

No, once i couldn't find them on the sks website I didn't believe the evans website and have asked a question on there which noone has answered yet.

Thanks for finding them elsewhere , I'll get them from evans once the budget has recovered a bit.I've got my bits coming in 3 packages, and all are on the way so a poo storm could be developing on the horizon at my place

Bit of an update, seems I bought these back in Jan 2011. I would have guessed had them a year but not two. With the amount of use my bikes get this would be an indication that they are strong.I picked these up from outside outfitters but you could also try bikeman. Both of these are good for rarer stuff and are quick to post.

BikeRadar wrote:New last year, SKS’ Longboard (US$49.99) is one of the brand’s pinnacle fenders for bike commuters. New for 2012, the fenders become available in their original 45mm width and a new 35mm width for tires ranging from 20mm to 28mm.

Tried fitting the front guard, but there is not enough clearance for that to work. I could do some cutting of guard to make it fit, but dont have the time at the moment. I fitted the rear guard on Wednesday night and overall it wasnt the hardest thing to do, despite what I had read on the web. Both front and rear have these end caps to go over the stays, but you have to actually install the guards first, get it positioned as you want, cut off unnecessary stay length, remove the guard and then put it back together using the end caps. Instructions assume they will be perfect first go, no mention of adjusting before putting end caps on.

Also, it is early days but I am a bit dubious about how well the method of fixing the stays will work given the bumpiness of my route. I think I will have to constantly check the nuts to make sure they are tight on a weekly basis. If they come loose then the whole guard will fail.

And of course...I have had beautiful clear weather since guards were delivered, so effectiveness is yet to be tested

Thanks for the plug gretaboy, bit of a bummer the front didn't fit in the end.

gretaboy wrote:Also, it is early days but I am a bit dubious about how well the method of fixing the stays will work given the bumpiness of my route.

My route is pretty bumpy and I've here's what I've found. The only frame attachment bolt I've had issues with working loose is the one that screws into the chainstay bridge (if you have one). I check this one every few months or so. If it does come loose you'll know about it pretty quickly, as all of a sudden it's tough to pedal! The other issue is more of a design flaw, which is the fitting that screws into the seatstay bridge, and folds around the top of the mudguard but doesn't actually completely attach to it. Because this fitting is metal (although for some reason in the pair my missus got it was plastic, don't know why), and the guard is a reinforced plastic, after a few years of use it wears away at the edge of the guard and starts up an annoying rattle in the gouge it has made. A bit of silicon on the edge of the guard, or a thin strip of gaffa tape sorts it out quickly enough.

rangersac wrote: The other issue is more of a design flaw, which is the fitting that screws into the seatstay bridge, and folds around the top of the mudguard but doesn't actually completely attach to it. Because this fitting is metal (although for some reason in the pair my missus got it was plastic, don't know why), and the guard is a reinforced plastic, after a few years of use it wears away at the edge of the guard and starts up an annoying rattle in the gouge it has made. A bit of silicon on the edge of the guard, or a thin strip of gaffa tape sorts it out quickly enough.

Initially I tried this seatstay bridge, however brief tests showed that I didnt have enough clearance and there was rubbing, so off it came. The two rear stays should, and have done so far, hold the guard in place for me

gretaboy wrote:Both front and rear have these end caps to go over the stays, but you have to actually install the guards first, get it positioned as you want, cut off unnecessary stay length, remove the guard and then put it back together using the end caps. Instructions assume they will be perfect first go, no mention of adjusting before putting end caps on.

There is an alternative. When I fitted mine I thought it was silly to cut the stay so it fitted the end cap, so instead I cut the end cap and the stays now poke through the end cap leaving me with some extra stay length if I ever need to adjust them. This also helped when I put them on the new bike, no chance of stays having been cut too short. Not quite sure why they insist on cutting the stay rather than just making the end cap have no end. I have found that the bolts holding the stay in place on the end cap don't get loose. I've been using mine for a couple of years and no issue there.

As for the mudflap, I bought a brooks and just bolted it to the end of the front mudguard. Works a treat.

I have had a couple of issues on the new bike. There was no bolt I could find to attach the mudguard to the bridge near the bottom bracket, nothing would fit. I used a zip tie to get around this. Also the new bike has a vertical rather than a horizontal mount for the bridge near the seat post. Nothing I can do about that so the mudguard is just not attached at that point. Seems to be fine though, no wheel rubbing.

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