ok, i got my rack out tonite with the help of my 12 yr old son, i am going to replace the boots and probably the ends

1) anything in particular i should watch for or adjust or measure while i have it out ?
2) does anyone know what the nunbers mean ? ( the years i can figure out )
3) do my rack ends look like i need to replace then...do rubber caps need to be over the ball joints
3) where is the best place to buy the ends and boots ?
4) will all purpose grease be ok when i rebuild ?

Some of the vendors have a full rebuild kit that ocntains all the pieces you need, maybe even the tie-rod end pieces. In your second photo, in the swivel points there is a nylon piece that could be replaced and is in the kits. Under the bolt whee the ground strap etc locates there is also a nylong piece there that presses against the pinion to adjust its snugness to the rack. Pull it all apart and clean it.
Dan

As much as I would love to rebuild a steering rack, I have never done it. I gave the last one away just to help clear the garage. I have swapped out the boots many times though. I have purchased them from BP Northwest and they are thick rubber. I once replaced a set with a cheap rubber and they split in just a couple of years. Call and ask about the quality. As for the tie rod ends, BP northwest again for the non greaseable kind, and TRF for the greasable tie rod ends. I would recommend paying a little more for the greaseable ones. Just remember when you remove the ends to count the rotations off, and then spin the new ones on the same amount. Gets your toe a little closer for the alignment. Good luck, Kyle.

If you have a manual, and of them, to follow, doing the rebuild is very simple process, does not take a engineer to do it.The first one I did was the first one I did, and it was no problem at all. It worked very well when done.
dan

Steve, I bought the rebuild kit from The Roadster Factory and was happy with the quality of the parts. I used lots of advice from sites like this and always had a buddy I could call for advice. I did it along with a complete front end job, lowered springs, shocks, and the rest of the front end bits. I figured if I wanted to drive the car like a go-cart I needed a reliable front end. I also took a lot of pictures for reference along with rebuilding the brakes. Good Luck.

i just looked on vb and they have rebuilt racks for $119.00 !!! that sounds like a good deal to me.
also they have a "quick ratio rack" for the same price, "which reduces turns to steer your car" is that something that would work with our spitfires ? (page 111 in vb)
any past experiences out there with this type of rack ?

Hi,
If you decide to get a new rack whether normal or quick keep your old one for rebuilding. the new ones aren't as easily rebuilt, and where the parts are different they aren't available.
All the best,
Paul

Another vote for replacing the old rack with a new one. I bought the VB quick ratio rack - so fast and easy to replace, and there is absolutely no play in the rack. $119. I really didn't notice a faster turn/fewer turns from rack to rack, but steering is now so tight and precise.

I had replaced the inner tie rods and nylon cups and adjusted the end play on my original rack but still had lots of floating around on the road. And this is with solid rack mounts. It ws just so easy to replace the rack with a new unit. The original unit and a parts car rack are both in the attic "just in case." Works for me!

Group:
I have a simple question on a Spit rack rebuild.
The pinion input shaft has a 1/8" dia. pin driven into the housing.
How is the pinion pulled with the pin in place. I tried and it wouldn't move.
Is the pin supposed to be drilled out to remove the pinion and bearings.
Regards: Gary