If you can, simply put a "J" loop in the drain line and it'll act like the 'J' pipe under sinks and provide water flow out but the water in the "J" will prevent air from leaking back in...That's what I did for mine...

From what I've learned, the "quick" fix - rubber stopper or cork - is not the "good" fix. To significantly decrease energy transfer, you need to permanently plug the hole AND add insulation where the hole used to be.

From what I've learned, the "quick" fix - rubber stopper or cork - is not the "good" fix. To significantly decrease energy transfer, you need to permanently plug the hole AND add insulation where the hole used to be.

Ah.... Well.... As a practical matter, Cork IS an exceptionally good insulator.

__________________"It is not so much for its beauty that the Sea makes a claim upon men's hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from the waves, that so wonderfully renews a weary spirit."

From what I've learned, the "quick" fix - rubber stopper or cork - is not the "good" fix. To significantly decrease energy transfer, you need to permanently plug the hole AND add insulation where the hole used to be.

Nah. What you need is to maintain the ability to drain the system when it's time for a defrost. The dead air in the plugged hose will be plenty good insulation the rest of the time.

Just where does one cruise that that 1 square inch of poor heat transfer area makes a difference?

As long as you put the plug/cock in the drain hole so the cool air isn't just flowing down the hole the "lost" insulation of the area doesn't make any difference. I can find a lot more more useful "fixes" to work on.

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jobless, houseless, clueless, living on a boat and cruising around somewhere