I first heard of the Finger of Fate from John Frieh, a total bad a$$ alpinist I climbed with at the city of rocks in April of 2010 or so. John said something like, it’s one of the best climbs I’ve ever done, and it’s only 5.8.

More on the 5.8 part later.

One of my regular climbing partners Matt L and I had the opportunity to climb it this Monday. We were more then a little apprehensive about the fires that are ragin in the area, so far 1.5 million acres have burned in Idaho this season, more then any other state. Other then a little smoke and diminished views, it wasn’t a problem. We left East Idaho at 2 pm or so on Sunday and after picking up a half case of Pabst Blue ribbon in Arco (is there a more depressing town any where?) we managed to make Stanley in time for dinner at the burger joint. I talked to two paramedics who were working with the fire crews, they said the fires were expected to burn until snowfall.

We made it up to the upper Hell-roaring lake trail head, in day light, it is a very rough road, with 4-low almost required (unless you hate your car).

We had a few beers and no fire (sadly a burning ban was in place), camping sucks with out a fire.

Sunset day 1

Credit: Ezra Ellis

I got up at 5:30 and read a book, Matt fought the urge to stay in his bag, and arose grudgingly at 6:30. It was Still 23 degres when we left at 8 am on the trail head. It was a 5.5 mile approach up 2000+ vertical gain past some stunning country to the base of the route, prolly took us 3.5 hours from the upper trail head.

Our first view of the finger from Hell-roaring lake

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Hell Roaring lake!

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Matt L

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Credit: Ezra Ellis

give em the finger!

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Credit: Ezra Ellis

A beautiful upper unnamed lake a perfect camping spot!!!

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Credit: Ezra Ellis

This grouse almost scared me senseless on the approach!

Credit: Ezra Ellis

East face up close

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Credit: Ezra Ellis

I got the first lead.
Looking Down p1

Credit: Ezra Ellis

up p1

Credit: Ezra Ellis

The Open book had some serious off width for which I employed my number 5 camalot, as I am a chicken sh*t for sure!!!

down p1

Credit: Ezra Ellis

down from p1 belay

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Matt L (Biatch!!!)

Credit: Ezra Ellis

I started out really cold it was probably 30 degrees in the shade at 11 am when we started, but was sweating profusely by the end of pitch1
Up p2, Pitch two was stellar and also requried the#4 and #5 camalot (new sizes)

up p2

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Mid way up pitch two we found a really cool crystal cave mid route, Awesome!!!

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Credit: Ezra Ellis

down p2

Credit: Ezra Ellis

unnamed lake form atop p3

Credit: Ezra Ellis

down p5

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Matt very happy, even though I stole p5 the best pitch...:)

Credit: Ezra Ellis

Pitch 6 had no protection at all in 100 feet and required tunneling under a huge block and then a 45 foot unprotectable 5.8+ arette, with massive exposuure.

Summit block from our first rapell

Credit: Ezra Ellis

2nd of 3 rapells

Credit: Ezra Ellis

We topped out at 3:15 were back at the base at 4:15 and at the car at 6:30 and were thankful for the uneventful drive home, over all a Stellar route with a great partner for sure!!!! One of my best routes yet!!!

Nice TR. I think the FS must've improved the Upper Hell Roaring TH road (this year or last) - now Subaru's make it & they've built a new trail (2 miles or so of it) on the TH side of the stream. Kind of weird since there's the old trail that comes in from the lower trailhead running parallel on the opposite bank.

that next to last pitch is called Airy by local climbers and is the most exciting pitch of the climb, being a nice arm-width wide flake that is a bombproof crab walk up. to gain the flake you leave the relative safety of a super ledge and step back out onto the face with 500 feet of exposure below you. above it there is a nice section of friction climbing with your last pro in the exit of the flake that is now ten-fifteen feet below.
have to say something for the last pitch too...it's just as exciting with a two finger lie-back into a crystal pocket and then a mantle to gain the sloping summit block.
this was my very first trad climb back around 1975. since then I have been up it three other routes. one, Feeling Free, is just to the climbers right and joins the Open Book route just below the flake.
great rock, as is the Elephant's Perch up Redfish creek canyon, just a few miles further north.

The first ascent according to a 2001 climbing magazine article by Mark Weber was: John Beaupre, and Gordon Webster in 1967, a very impressive route for the time, they are Idaho locals according to the article.

imstein- wow the first winter ascent, March I hope???
that had to be hella cold, I was cold in September, can't imagine climbing that dark north face in the winter,
Great pics from the way back!

Nice TR. Did you guys climb this over labor day weekend ?,
If so, we were the 2 old guys camping at unnamed lake.
We were able to backpack over the pass at Red Bluff, down to Crammer Lakes.
Tricky but saves the 17 miles it is to hike there on known trails.

Pitch 6 had no protection at all in 100 feet and required tunneling under a huge block and then a 45 foot unprotectable 5.8+ arette, with massive exposuure.

The tunneling part isn't hard, and you can get a cam in but it isn't really needed. The very last move of the climb is an exposed mantle onto the very top of the summit block, protected (as of a few years ago) by an ancient fixed pin. Great finish!