Fodor's may use your email address to send you relevant information on site updates, account changes, and offers. For more information about your privacy and protection, please review our full Privacy Policy.

Tanzanian Safari - Trip Report

I'm back, and wanting to share my experience with anyone who will listen!! The months of planning and uncertainty are over. The journey has been accomplished. I love Africa!!! I'm trying to organize my thoughts and cull through the hundreds and hundreds of pictures I took. Hopefully within the next day or so, I'll have some pictures well enough organized to share with you all. In the meantime...

Day 1 -- We finally got to the San Francisco Airport Hyatt after making some stops to bid farewell to family members, then turning around and going home to get my drivers license -- just in case I might need it. (I'm not sure what my thinking was -- maybe I'd be called upon to drive our safari jeep?) We ordered room service, watched T.V., and got a good night's sleep to ready us for the upcoming adventure.

Day 2 -- We caught the Hyatt's 5:30 a.m. shuttle for the 5 minute ride to the airport. We took American Airlines for a pleasant, uneventful flight to JFK. At JFK we passed a long 5+ hour layover before our KLM flight bound for Amsterdam boarded. After boarding we waited for 2 hours before taking off. Again, an uneventful flight. Not as pleasant as the flight from SFO to JFK, but at least KLM serves lots of food and free drinks...

Day 3 -- This time change thing is weird. How can it be Day 3 when we just left home? We arrived in Amsterdam about noon and went immediately to the airport Sheraton. My husband and I were tired and cranky and had decided that international travel isn't for us. Fortunately our room was ready, and we showered, napped, had dinner, decided that maybe international travel isn't so bad after all, then slept through the night. The Sheraton is right at the airport; even I, with my bad knee, can walk to it. We are so glad we had decided to spend the night and recharge the batteries before pushing on to Africa.

Day 4 -- Our morning was a little hectic, but we made our flight and got settled in for the 8+ hour flight to Arusha, finally arriving at Kilimanjaro International Airport. It was hot and humid inside the airport; not to mention how slowly everything went. There were only 3 or 4 people to hand check and stamp every passport/visa for 2 arriving international flights. Finally we were through the formalities and outside the airport. It was still warm, but the air was much fresher. We met our driver/guide, Godson, and were on our way. Even in the dark, the feel of Tanzania is of poverty. Something that was to be confirmed over and over during our stay. Despite the incredible poverty, however, we found a grace and dignity among many of the people that is admirable, and is part of what made our trip so wonderful, but I'm jumping ahead...

After driving for about 40 minutes we turned into a dusty, rutted lane. Of course I was terrified that we were being kidnapped and would be robbed and never heard from again. Obviously my fears were unfounded, and we arrived, instead at the Serena Mountain Village Lodge. It was once a coffee plantation, but is now lodging. We were served refreshing drinks and escorted to our rooms. Our room was lovely, and I was to discover the next morning that the grounds are lovely too.

I was exhausted, but too tired to sleep immediately. I was finally in Africa. The sounds of the first night were of insects. They would give way to other, more menacing sounds on future nights, but of course I didn't know that at the time. The night smells were musty, dusty, smokey, with random intense floral smells.

Finally, I was off to sleep to ready myself for the next day when the adventure would begin in earnest!

I've managed to organize another installment of our adventure. It is fun for me to look through my journal and relive the experience.

Day 5 -- We awoke early, had a hearty breakfast, good coffee, and were on our way to Tarangire. We passed through Arusha. We saw many people going about their business; walking and riding bikes. The men seemed to be dressed in Western style clothing, but many women were dressed in kangas, which are brightly colored rectangular cloths they wrap around their bodies and heads. Many women also carried buckets or baskets balanced perfectly on their heads as they went about their business. Their bearing was regal and graceful. All this was so new, exciting, and exotic to us. I wanted pictures, but we had been warned to be respectful about taking photos, so we didn't get many.

We soon passed Arusha and were out in the country. We saw many herds of cattle or goats being tended by young boys, many of whom were dressed in cloths wrapped around their bodies and carrying staffs. The homes we passed were very small. Some were built of sticks and mud or dung. The more "modern" ones were small rectangles built of more modern construction; however none appeared to have glass windows or real doors. We saw no evidence of electricity or running water. Our driver confirmed this and said most people must fetch water every day for their daily needs. The residences tend to be family compounds with several small buildings standing close to one another serving different functions, or housing various family members. Many had "kraals" which are brushy fences build for protection from wild animals.

We finally reached Tarangire and turned off the reasonably good, paved highway onto a dusty road. We thought it was bad, but we didn't know that we'd come to appreciate what a good road it was - comparatively speaking!

We arrived at our camp after making our first sightings of zebras, giraffes, ostriches, guinea hens, and wildebeest. Oh, our excitement!! At the lodge, we looked down over the valley and saw elephants down by the river, along with zebras, and wildebeest. It looked like something out of Jurassic Park!

Our tents were interesting. They are permanent tents, with front porches, beds, and bathrooms. It is a little more primitive than I'm accustomed to, but I enjoyed the two nights we spent there. It was all part of the adventure.

Day 5(continued) - After lunch we went back to our tent and found a warthog grazing in our "yard". I took a couple of pictures, the we just stood there and watched until suddenly it decided to charge at us. Yikes!! We didn't know what to do, and were terrified. We just stood there, stunned, (with my bum knee, I knew I couldn't get anywhere fast enough to escape anyway). My life flashed before my eyes. Killed by a warthog. My doctor had kidded me about being lion bait, but never mentioned warthogs... Fortunately it veered away, and we were safe. Somewhat shaken we went into our tent for a little rest before our afternoon game drive. As we rested, I heard a rustling sound and turned just in time to see a creature scurry out of our tent. They mean it when they say "zip up the zipper -- all the way".

At 4:00 we went for a game drive. Our first official one. We saw elephants, dik-dik, many birds, a monitor lizard, warthogs, zebras, giraffes, and even 2 lions (although these were at a great distance). We were so excited. As I mentioned earlier, it was just like being in Jurassic Park. Of special interest to me were the beautiful baobab trees. They are ancient trees, many being hundreds of years old, with huge, gnarled trunks, and wide spreading branches. Wow!! All these exotic animals and interesting vegetation as a bonus!

As we were leaving the park area, the sun was setting. I have never seen such beautiful sunsets as are to be found in Africa. Evening after evening we were treated to the most spectacular displays. We have lots of stunning sunset photos, but then, I suspect, so do most camera wielding visitors to this part of the world.

We had a sundowner reception on the patio, dinner, then were escorted to our tents. After a cold shower, we settled down to our first night in a tent in Africa, lulled by the rumbling of lions and other night sounds. I can't believe I'm doing this. I like fancy hotels, bed and breakfasts, luxury, and comfort. That being said, I'm having the time of my life. I love Africa!!!

Day 6 "Hello, good morning, jambo.." We are awaken at 6:00 a.m. by a young man bearing a pot of hot coffee. We were up and dressed in time to watch the beautiful sunrise just outside our tent door, while sipping a nice hot cup of coffee. I could get used to this!! By 6:30 we were off on another game drive. Sightings included cape buffalo, giraffes, warthogs, zebras, waterbuck, elephants, and dik-dik.

After breakfast our driver/guide talked to us about Tanzania. He was, at one time, a hunting guide but disliked the killing of animals just for bragging rights, so turned to guiding the type of safari we're on. He is an interesting man, and is very knowledgeable. He is an older man, 57 years, and seems somewhat introspective and thoughtful. He also has a wicked sense of humor! In addition to the animals and vegetation, we discussed the local people and their habits, which really pleases me as I am as interested in the culture of where I am as the wildlife. He told us that some families still ask for a bride price when their daughters marry, but that he felt it was like selling his daughter. Instead he followed in his father's footsteps and took a gift of sugar to each of the households of friends and relatives to announce the marriage plans of his daughter.

He also pointed out that many people now have "modern" houses. They looked like shacks to us -- no electricity or running water, tin roofs, no real doors or windows (just openings). Generally people build a structure and partition it into a community space for eating and visiting and bedrooms, with separate areas for boys, girls, and parents. Later, more buildings may be added to the compound to house more relatives, visitors, and for cooking areas. Each building, however, is really small - no more than 400 square feet for a modern house, and far less for a traditional one. It really puts my life and expectations into perspective.

On our afternoon game drive we sighted impalas, mongooses, baboons (including some infants), and another lion. We are becoming somewhat blasé about "the usual" zebras, elephants, dik-diks, warthogs, giraffes, and wildebeest.

At dinner we are surprised when we are charged double the amount for wine as compared to last night. When we asked why, they just said "new prices". We're wondering if the new prices come into effect on one's last night. We've discovered that prices in Africa can be somewhat arbitrary and bargining is expected. This isn't so much true in the lodges. Oh well, no matter. We are having the time of our life.

We're soon off to another cold shower and bed. During the night I was awakened to tearing sounds, and looked out of my tent to see the silhouette of a large animal grazing just outside my window flap. Yikes! What could it be? At least I was comforted by the knowledge that it appeared to be a herbivore, so wouldn't be interested in me!!! I also assumed that the lions I had heard earlier that evening wouldn't be nearby, as the grazing animal seemed pretty relaxed! I would probably survive the night and live to see another game drive. This is the best trip of my life!!!

I am really enjoying your trip report. We leave for Kenya-Tanzania in 8 days. I am so excited, (hubby is not too thrilled).
Where was your first tented stop? I love all of the details.
MORE PLEASE, Sandy

Sandy, our first tented stop was the Tarangire Safari Lodge. It is a very nice "camp" beautifully located on a bluff overlooking the river where elephants and other game just casually hang out all day long. We really enjoyed it, despite the scary bathroom. The tent was fine, comfortable, and we felt safe. I was afraid to use the bathroom in the middle of the night, however, as it wasn't completely closed in (there was a gap between the wall and the "roof"). It was probably pretty silly of me, but it is amazing how imaginative one can be after dark!!. I strongly suspect that my husband was having some of the same imaginings, although he won't admit it.

I'm so excited for you. Where in Kenya & Tanzania will you be visiting? I'm sure you'll enjoy it, as will your husband. My husband went with the attitude that he was accomodating another one of my harebrained schemes, but ended up practically knocking me over to get a good vantage point every time we even thought we had a good game sighting.

nice pictures nevermind. nice to see the Swahili(?) name of them all. at first I thought you had named all the animals on your trip, then realized it must be the African name for them. DUH
Great report also! Thanks!

Nevermind, Our trip is as follows--We overnight in Nairobi, Samburu Serena-2 nights, Mara Intrepids-3 nights, Arusha-1 night, Tarangire Swala-2 nights, Ngorongora Serena-2 nights, Serengeti Serena-1 night, Migration Camp-2 nights, Arusha-1 night, then South Africa for 10 days. DH is most concerned about tented camps. I think we will be ok once he sees they don't have too many snakes and large animals in them. (We are flying between some of the stops so we don't have real long drives most days.) I am saving air miles just in case he falls in love with Afica and wants to return.

Hi nevermind: I am really enjoying the report and am so glad you added pics. They're fantastic. Really like the one looking down on elephants and zebra at the Tarangire watering hole. It's a neat perspective.

Maybe a group of us women could get together for a trip to Africa without our husbands-even though mine enjoyed most of the trip, he got very ill 2nd day at the camp and is a bit wary of going to the "bush" again!

We left Tarangire at 7:30 a.m., after breakfast. The road was a good paved one, a fact that we didn't fully appreciate until later on that day. We saw a few giraffes along the way. Although it hadn't felt unusual to see them on a game drive, seeing them browsing away along a paved road was somewhat surreal. Along the way we also saw many people out and about along the road. The countryside was very rural, dusty, and flat. The main industry seems to be herding cattle and goats, and this was mostly done by young boys. Men were walking or riding bikes to get from one place to another. Where they were going remains a mystery. It seemed to us that there was really no place to go... Many men were dressed in red or blue cloaks, and the women wore colorful kangas. I wish my friends could see all this. It is so colorful and interesting. Many women walked along the roadway with pails on their heads. Godson said they were fetching water and food for the day. He told us that the day begins at dawn, when the men go out to make the living. The women tend the homes and children. Sometimes it can take the better part of a morning just to get water for the household. Godson said that the roles are pretty clearly defined in African culture. The woman is responsible for all things involving the home -- in some areas (including the Maasai culture) that includes building the home. He told us that he considers himself to have modern attitudes, but would be humilitated if any of his friends caught him helping out in the kitchen!

As we approached Lake Manyara, we passed through a little town called Mto Wa Mbu, meaning Mosquito River. It is a bustling, colorful town. The people all seem busy and industrious. One thing I have noticed is that Africans seem very communal. There appears to be a lot of visiting and interacting that occurs, and they are all friendly to us.

We didn't spend much time at Lake Manyara; however we were there long enough to see hippos, cormorants, storks, pelicans, baboons, elephants, giraffes, monkeys, cape buffalo, and wildebeest.

The road remained good, and we climbed a steep hill which gave us a panoramic view of the area we had passed through. There was was only one paved road - the one we were on - but many dusty trails leading to who knows where.

The vegetation became lush. This was obviously a more agricultural area, and very pretty. We had a nice lunch on the patio at Gibb's Farm, which was once a coffee plantation. The food was good, the weather beautiful, and the view stunning. I managed to get lost at the farm, which was pretty embarrassing. I was wandering off by myself and soon realized I had no clue as to where I was. I tried asking a couple of workers how to get back to the main area, but no one spoke English and my Swahili is limited to a couple of polite phrases. "Jambo", "Habari yako?", or "Asante" weren't goint to get me far. Perhaps "Wapi choo?" would elicit the response I needed, but I wouldn't understand unless it was given in English. I was doomed. My husband would continue on without me, and I'd miss out on the safari. Why do I do things like this? My first time of wandering off was when I was about 11 and I took my 2 year old brother on a sunset walk around Sequoia National Park. We were soon lost. Fortunately we were found just as darkness fell. I still remember the fear in my heart and the weight of responsibility for my little brother. My mom said to never wander off again. Obviously I wasn't a good listener.

Fortunately, this time, I saved myself. As I wandered, things began to look familiar and I heard my husband's voice. As I came limping up to him, I expected concern, even worry, as to where I'd been. Instead he said "Are you ready to go?". I guess I hadn't been missing as long as I thought. Still, I think maybe I should heed my mother's warning.

Along the way we stopped at an area that overlooked the crater. It was a beautiful day and the crater floor, ringed by mountains, was a perfectly flat patchwork of yellow grassland dotted with greener areas where there is water and trees. At our lay-by was a plaque commemorating those who had lost their lives in the conservation of wildlife. Among the causes of death were rhino attack, shot by poachers, and road & air accidents. There was also a plaque that read "It is our obligation to save rhinos". Where else in the world can such sentiments be found?

We soon had our first taste of rough, dusty, scary roads. Still nothing compared with what was to come! Nevertheless, enough to wake us up. We arrived at the Ngorongoro Serena Lodge in the late afternoon, The lodge is nice and we had a comfortable room with hot water for the shower! Our room opened onto a stunning view of the crater.

We immediately checked into having our clothes laundered. They were, after all, pretty dusty after that ride. (We were still new at this safari thing. It didn't take long, however, for us to figure out that wearing dusty clothes is o.k.) Someone came to our room and fetched our laundry, then after cleaning up and resting for a while, we went to the lounge where we enjoyed some local entertainment. After dinner it was off to bed, as we had another big day coming up. As we walked into our room, the phone was ringing. It was the laundry asking if it would be convenient for them to bring us our clean clothes. I think we are getting spoiled.

Thanks for your beautiful pictures. I loved the dik-dik, the Tarangire twilight landscapes, the aerials, the baby lions and all others. Had the topi just rolled in the dust? For that kind of situation you need to bring a grooming set.
And keep wandering off. It’s a good way to find interesting things.

I can be blase about some of the hooved species, as you mentioned, but I never get tired of the dik dik (no double entendre there, really). Those tiny antelope just amaze me and the babies are even tinier.

Great photos. The aerial near Manyara was clever and the marabou stork shot had brilliant colors. How lucky to see the lion cubs. Plus you had good views of many other species.

Your slide show can serve as a Swahili picture book for those practice the language before their trip. It can also serve as a reminder for you not to forget the names.

I noticed early on in your report you claimed it was the best trip of your life. So many of us are hooked in days or even hours.

What a day this was. We had an early breakfast, left the lodge at 7:30 a.m. and made our way down a dusty, rocky, windy, pot-holed, precipitous, washboarded road into the crater. I was so excited to be going into the crater that I didn’t really mind the jolting ride. I’m becoming a seasoned safarier, safarite, or whatever you call a person who goes on safari.

As we drove into the crater, our driver told us more of the Tanzanian customs. He said that just as bride prices are going out of style, marriages don't tend to be arranged any longer either. Now when a man and woman want to marry, they tell their parents. The parents may then hire an investigator to be sure the object of their child's affection is suitable (hard working, no genetic problems, no trouble with the law). Once the union is accepted, the marriage often takes place in a church, and great celebration occurs in the families' homes. It sounds a bit like our ways!

Godson also told us that his youngest son (a 14 year old) is actually a Maasai boy who had approached him several years ago, wanting to go to school. Godson checked with his wife and children, as well as the boy's parents. Once everyone agreed, Godson adopted the boy and is sponsoring his education. The boy visits his parents in the Ngorongoro region, but lives with Godson's family. As Godson tells the story, the boy had saved up money for school. He paid for his first year, thinking that the amount would ensure his continuing education. The young man was quite disappointed to discover that he must pay each year, which is when he asked Godson to sponsor him. I find this interesting, and am a little embarrassed about how we take education for granted in our country. If fact, some kids seem to go to great lengths to avoid the work involved in gaining a good education.

Once we got into the crater we saw all sorts of animals, including a golden jackal, hippos, zebras, hyenas, warthogs, elephants, rabbits, lions, gazelle, wildebeest, and monkeys. We also saw many birds, including grey heron, flamingo, Kori bustards, black-bellied bustards, ostriches, and black kites. We also saw a rhino from a great distance – so great that I don’t really count it, as I wasn’t totally convinced that it really was a rhino.

During the drive we noticed vehicles up on a hillside, and asked our driver about them. He told us that there are rangers that observe what is going on in the crater and that one of their daily duties is to monitor and track the rhinos. Each day they log where the rhinos have been and what their activities were. They do, indeed, take the obligation to save the rhinos very seriously.

The big excitement of the day was provided by a large male lion who decided to lie down in the middle of the dirt track we used as a road. He was tired and wounded. Our driver said he'd probably battled with other males during the night and had obviously lost the battle, as he was not with a pride and had bleeding wounds. I felt sorry for him, as he was such an item of interest, with safari vehicles gathered around him like vultures. It certainly wasn’t his most dignified moment, perhaps it wasn’t ours either, as we gawked and stared. However, he seemed completely disinterested in our vehicles and cameras. We spent quite a bit of time watching him, then drove on to the bathrooms, which were about 100 feet away. Needless to say, we were watchful when getting out of the vehicles to use the toilets. It is so easy to get careless and not respect the fact that these animals can be dangerous. In fact, we saw several people being pretty casual and straying quite a distance from their vehicles as they stretched their legs. This time I was careful not to wander…

Later on, we were surprised to find that a wonderful bush lunch had been set up for us in the crater in a thicket of trees. This was such an unexpected treat. We had barbequed chicken, pork, and beef along with an assortment of side dishes and drinks, and entertainment was provided by the antics of monkeys. What a great way to end a game drive – even if we didn’t get close to any rhinos!

On the way out of the crater I took a video, as I honestly think that no one will believe how rutted and rough the road out was without proof!! These roads aren’t for the faint of heart.

That night we watched a full moon rise over the Ngorongoro. It was so beautiful. The pictures I took don't do it justice – not even close.

Tomorrow we have another big day ahead of us. Because of overbooking, our reservations have been switched around. We won't be able to follow the itinerary that had been originally set up and will need to travel all the way to Kirawira. It will be a long trip, but I am learning that flexibility is an important part of enjoying a safari.

Day 8 -- Today is my husband’s birthday. We are on the road -- the long, dusty, bumpy, washboarded, potholed, dusty, rutted, uneven, dusty, long road -- to Kirawira...

We breakfasted, and left the Ngorongoro Crater about 7:30 a.m. I had thought these early mornings would be difficult, but found that - for once - jet lag was working for me, or maybe it is just the adrenaline of adventure coursing through my body. I don't really have a problem with 7:30, it's just being up, dressed, packed, breakfasted, and ready to leave that I had worried about. It seems impossible to believe that just a couple of short years ago I was accustomed to arising before 5 and was always at work by 7. I love being retired!! Anyway, back to the day...

This morning we visited a Maasai village. The Maasai are nomadic people, whose entire life revolves around their cattle. No one is allowed to reside in the parks of Tanzania, but the Ngorongoro area has been designated a conservation area to accommodate the Maasai, who are permitted to live in the region. The area is dotted with small villages, and Maasai are to be seen, wrapped in their blue and red garb, just about everywhere you go.

The people greeted us with some dancing and singing, then we were adopted by a guide who showed us around the village. Our guide was named Nario (or Nanario?) he wrote his name down for us, but it was difficult to read as he wrote it on the baggie I had my camera enclosed in. He took us into his boma, which is a small, half round hut built of twigs, grass, dung, and anything else they could find such as cardboard and pieces of plastic. It really reminded me of the way a bird builds its nest, using anything available. The hut was built with a low, convoluted entrance that turned back on itself. This design was to keep out the wind and dust out of the dwelling. The inside was small, very dark, and smoky. My husband stayed inside, but I came back out as I was afraid that I wouldn't be able to get up if I sat down, which would be necessary as the structure is so low that one can't stand up in it. The inside had a warming fire and was partitioned off into sleeping quarters for boys, girls, and parents.

While I waited for my husband and Nario to come back out, I was an object of great interest. A number of Maasai came up to me, obviously trying to make conversation, but I don't speak Maasai or Swahili, and none of them spoke English. Finally one young boy indicated for me to stay where I was, and took off. A couple of minutes later he came back with a friend in tow: a friend who spoke some English and could translate. They wanted to know who I was and where I was from. Once we had those details ironed out, we just stood around smiling and nodding at one another. Soon Randy and Nario came back out and Nario took us just outside the kraal to the small village school. The school had no roof and was simply a stick and grass wall wrapped around to form a little room. Inside were about 25 or 30 very young children, a male teacher and a female assistant. They had an old, holey blackboard, and the children were reciting their lessons, being led by one of the older children. It appeared that they were working on the alphabet. Some things are the same the world over. That being said, I don't think we should ever again complain about overcrowded classrooms or lack of supplies!!! Well, maybe that is a bit harsh. There is nothing wrong with wanting the best for our students, but this certainly helps put things in perspective. It certainly is an example of making the best of what you have.

When Nario found out I had been a teacher, he wanted my e-mail address, as he said he has many questions. How in the world he thinks he'll e-mail me is beyond my comprehension, since the village doesn’t even have running water or electricity, but Godson said he may be able to get up to one of the lodges and that they are pretty generous with allowing the Maasai to use their facilities for such purposes. Nario is obviously somewhat educated, and he speaks good English. I hope that he finds a way to contact me, as I would like to try to do something to help.

I haven't mentioned yet how windy and dusty it was at the village. By the end of the visit, we were filthy with dust and grime. My hair, clothes, eyes, and mouth were full of grit. Nario said that it is generally windy and dusty, and is difficult for them, but is part of their ways so they've learned how to deal with the elements. I can't imagine living under such conditions.

Before we left, we did buy some jewelry. I was a little surprised that Nario kind of took us under his wing, and bargained for us and we ended up paying almost nothing for these souvenirs. I know that the village depends on money like ours to buy drinking water and fulfill other needs that the people, so I feel a little guilty.

Our next stop was the Oldipai Gorge, where the Leakys did all their famous anthropological work. It wasn't too exciting, but was interesting just the same, because of all the importance attached to the site. I remember learning all about it when I was growing up. There is a small museum there, but no real artifacts - just models, copies, and pictures. We did learn that the gorge was named after sisal that grows in the area and is used by the Maasai to make twine.

We continued on to the Serengeti. The roads were terrible, but that is all part of the experience. By the time we got to the lodge where we were to eat lunch, my knee was swollen from the constant jolting and was difficult to walk on. Since we had no ice and no way of elevating it at the time, I just needed to accept it. Fortunately, not much was required in the way of mobility, so it was more of an inconvenience than disability. The place we lunched was to have been our lodging for the next two nights, but overbooking on the part of the lodge meant they didn't have rooms for us, so after lunch we pushed on to Kirawira. I haven’t been so dirty since I was a child, and I found that I didn’t care! I felt rugged and resilient. I felt like an adventurer. It had been a long, hot, uncomfortable day, but we were having fun!

Finally we arrived at Kirawira. I love it there, as my husband. It is a luxury tented camp in the Serengeti and is something directly from the movie "Out of Africa". Our tent was very large, had hardwood floors, electricity, beautiful furniture, a fairly luxurious bathroom, running hot & cold water, and a beautiful front porch that looked out over the Serengeti. The common areas (lounge and dining) were very large, permanent tents that were elegantly appointed with nice furniture. We even had real linens on the dining table and were served multi-course meals.

After showering, we went to the lounge area for drinks and dinner. After dinner, the entire kitchen and wait staff paraded out bearing a birthday cake for my husband and singing "Jambo, Jambo Bwana". I couldn't believe how beautifully they sang -- perfect harmony and even instrumental accompaniment with creamers and spoons. I managed to videotape it. The visual quality is very poor, as the lighting was low, but I did capture the audio, which was my goal. What an exciting birthday it was! We were escorted back to our tent and toasted his birthday with the wine that had delivered earlier.

"Nevermind", I am enjoying your posting so much. When I saw your photo of the lilac-breasted roller especially my heart leapt! I have dreamed for ages of seeing one of these birds - do they have a beautiful song? And the huts reminding you of bird's nests in their construction- I loved that! When you describe being dusty, tired, but full of fun and adventurous, my husband and I once felt that too after an arduous trek through rainforest. It really does make one feel like a child again, viewing the world with wonder and a sense of triumph over adventure. We just know that Africa will bring it all back again for us. Looking forward to hearing you continue.

Carolines - the lilac-breasted rollers are stunning birds. It is my understanding, however, that they don't have a particularly lovely song!

Imagination - I don't know much about binoculars. I have a little pair that I took with me, I don't what their power is, but they aren't very fancy. They are just a little all purpose pair I usually keep in my car.

Leely, just moments before looking at Fodor's and seeing your most recent post, I showed my daughter the video I made of the parade of cooks, wait staff, manager, (and it seemed like every single person who works at Kirawira) singing and bringing out the cake. It actually brought tears to my eyes. There was such sincere good-will in these people's smiles and voices. My husband said the cake was, because of the circumstances, the best he's ever had!

We are still researching for a trip October 2007. Your trip sounds just like what we want. What company did you use? What size group were you with? How many days did you set aside for the whole trip--? Very nice info on Fodors. Did you like the time of year you went May? Very nice trip. Please email us at mutt@maxinet.com.if you wishe to elaborate more. Thank you ;mutt@maxinet.com

We were greeted, once again, by coffee being served to our room at 6:00 a.m. It sure is a delightful way to start the day. They brought little muffins along with the coffee, to tide us over until breakfast, since we're going on a game drive before breakfast.

We had an interesting, but uneventful drive this morning. We saw, among other creatures, jackals, vultures, lions, monkeys, baboons, hyenas, gazelle, impala, zebras, and wildebeest. We are becoming increasingly nonchalant about game sightings. That is not to say we have lost our enthusiasm. I think we are just beginning to understand that there are lots of animals in the Serengeti! You never know what you will see, which adds to the anticipation. We did come across a pride of lions (2 males and 3 females) that had a fairly fresh kill. They'd eaten their fill; the three females were stretched out in the sun and one of the males was lying off by himself, stretched out on his back, looking like a huge domesticated cat. The other male was jealously guarding an uneaten part of the kill (which appeared to be the haunch of some large animal, perhaps a wildebeest). It continues to amaze me how unfazed they all our by our presence.

We returned to camp and had a pleasant breakfast, followed by some leisure time. My husband and I, and two others, decided to travel to Lake Victoria. It seemed a shame to be so near and not visit one of the world's great lakes. We left a little after 2:00 p.m. It took us about an hour to get out of the Serengeti. Once we were out, we were greeted by a paved road. Hallelujah!! Again, we were struck by the poverty we encountered. Along the way we passed through several areas where we smelled a strong scent of marijuana. I was to learn later that drugs can be somewhat of a problem, even in this isolated corner of the world. We passed through a small town called Lamadi and were soon at the Lake. When we got out of the jeep, many children came up and were touching us and wanting to hold our hands. Our guide said that they are not particularly accustomed to people who look as we do, so they are very interested. One child kept pulling my fingers apart and stroking the skin on my hand. I imagine I looked very pale to her. A young man named Joseph spoke with us for a few minutes, then my husband and the others went out for a boat ride on the lake. I stayed behind, fearing that it might be somewhat dangerous for me to try to board the little boat in the choppy water because of my knee. I also realized I was taking somewhat of a risk staying behind, but the guide stayed back as well, so I was somewhat comforted.

While the others were gone, Joseph came over and talked to me at great length. He is really an interesting young man, about 20 years old, and very idealistic. His goal is to help this small village work their way out of the poverty that surrounds it. His English was quite good, and he was so proud of having gone to secondary school. He said that all courses in secondary school are taught in English, but that the actual speaking came with experience. He is really curious about the different accents that English speaking people have, and said that Swahili is the same. [Swahili is the unifying language of Tanzania. People speak their local tribal languages, but everyone learns Swahili and they communicate with people outside of their region with Swahili.] According to Joseph, Swahili can sound somewhat different depending on the region.

Anyway, Joseph's goal is to help bring education to the children of the village. He said family planning is a huge problem, but that the people just don't understand, so he's hoping that by educating the children, they will choose new ways for themselves. Drugs and alcohol also present problems and, as we witnessed, gambling also seemed to be a big time and money waster. He has a big job ahead of him.

Once the guys were back from the boat, we went on a walking tour of part of the village. I must admit to being a little concerned (meaning nervous, scared). I think we all were. I was just praying that we wouldn't be robbed, but I think we were viewed as bringing something good into the village and were treated well. The children were dressed in rags. Cattle waded in the lake, right where the women were fetching water which I'm sure was for household use. The catch of the day was all laid out on a table where the men were cleaning the fish. Some young men and boys were sitting around playing cards. Others were loitering -- I'm not sure what they were doing. The children followed us around town, clutching at us and playing with our clothes and skin. It was a dismal, depressing scene. I wish Joseph and his friends well. I would like to help, but don’t know how.

We returned to our lodge. Showers were the first item on the agenda. We were shaken by what we had seen, and feeling very fortunate to have the standard of living we do. We entered back into our world of the luxury tented camp, warm showers, multi-course dinners, clean clothes, and comfortable beds. It is a mistake to take all this for granted.

After dinner, we were once again escorted back to our tents for a good night sleep before leaving for another lodge in the morning.

Glad Joseph talked about FAMILY PLANNING. This is one of the biggest problems in impoverished areas. I see so many kids running around and while they are beautiful... jut too many that can't be cared for.

When I was in Varanasi, India, I met a womn working with rural women there. she was working on promoting family planning.

She told women, the pig (considered a FILTHY animal) has a litter of many kids, she can't care for the all well. A cow, (considered holy & clean) has one and takes care of it.

A simple example that she said carries a lot of weight.

Very sad to see that gambling has taken hold there. Rich or poor it can be horribly destructive

nevermind,
I really like this installment....We (my husband and I) will be in the Lake Victoria region (Mwanza)in Jan 2008 with an NGO working at an orphanage. Husband is a higly skilled carpenter and will be building and training locals. What part of Lake Vic did you visit?
I am also looking into programs which support women's health and development. Your comments on the matter have encouraged me further...

I'd also like to take a moment (warning: bleeding-heart liberal at large...)to let you know there are ways you can help...in my research on safaris alone, I found that Green Footprints (among others) donates their monies and services to a wonderful non-profit. (if you go to greenfootprints.co.tz and click on "About Us" and they provide info and a link. I think the name of the org is Tanzania Children's Fund. Seems to me this is the easiest way to start researching LEGIT NGO's. (excellent research tip: Google the names of the orgs etc. in quotes and it will cut down your search to a few pages.) also use Google News...you never know... Do as much research as possible!
Another thing I read on LP thorntree that I thought was a good idea: the next time you travel, if possible, pack and extra bag/save some room for supplies to donate to an orphange (school supplies are highly valued...especially text/teaching books)Tanzania law now allows children in primary schools to attend school free of charge. Secondary schools are not free and, for the poorer, often requires a "sponsor". (Estimated cost for school in Mwanza: $7 for a uniform and $5/month for school.) This is highly motivating for the children as they're aware that if they don't do well in primary school, they will not be able to attent seconday school. Even these young children understand that education is the key.
And it doesn't have to be an orphanage...find a cause you can support...Family planning...business development...whatever sparks your passion.
Jumping off my soapbox...you can tell me to shut up now.
teri714

This comment "...uneventful drive this morning. We saw, among other creatures, jackals, vultures, lions, monkeys, baboons, hyenas, gazelle, impala, zebras, and wildebeest," shows what an amazing place the Serengeti is. You are right, these kinds of sightings are typical.

Your knee must have been ok since it was not a topic.

Carolines,
You should see lots of lilac breasted rollers, especially if you let your guide know. I find it remarkable that such a beautiful bird is so common.

Mutt,
October might mean the ideal itinerary is shifted a bit from nevermind's.

By no means do I wish to hijack this wonderful thread by Nevermind, so i'll just say one more thing and then I'll really shut up.
Wayne - thanks for sharing, I think that a lot of the problem is exactly what nevermind said..."i want to help but don't know how" and I agree... look at the millions of dollars wasted on the katrina fiasco....trailers in Hope Arkansa?!?

I love the thought provoking comments you all have made with regard to my last post. I must say that the afternoon spent at Lake Victoria was one of the best and one of the most depressing days of my life.

Teri, I so respect what you and your husband are planning to do. Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I'm by no means a "bleeding heart liberal" as you describe yourself, but I sure do care. I guess there is room in this world for all of us, and at the end of the day we all want something similar. In this case it is an improved quality of life for those we have come to care about in Africa.

We gave some extra $$ to our driver to help with his Maasai boy's education. Perhaps there will be more we can do to help down the road. Every day I check my e-mail with the hope that Nario (from the Maasai village) will keep his pledge to contact me. I would love to supply books, paper, pencils or other supplies to him. I'm always leery of giving money, as I want to feel confident it will be wisely spent, but I would be boundless in my efforts to provide supplies.

Hi nevermind,
Thank you for your kind words. You described your trip to Lake Vic as "the best and most depressing" experience...and that is exactly what I am preparing for. Nevertheless, I also plan on it being the most rewarding experience of my life ...feel free to contemplate the irony...

In that you walked away from this experience caring about the people and wanting to help leads me to believe that you're more enlightened than you give yourself credit for.

And I agree with you in terms of sending money...I too am very wary and, instead, send the school and art supplies i told you about. I work too hard for my money and don't like the idea of it being squandered...

i really hope you hear from Nario as well.

An interesting side note.. the greeting you received from the children was a fairly typical one. They run to you with both arms in the air. You then kneel/squat so they can place their hands on your forehead and greet you. Cute custom...

We left Kirawira around 9:30 a.m., just after breakfast. I was sorry to go, as this was my favorite place. My husband and I have decided that if we are ever back in this part of the world, we'd fly in to the Grumeti airstrip and spend a couple of days here. We spent a little time driving around before we left and spotted some hippos and crocodiles, along with the expected zebras, giraffes, and a couple of lions. Actually, the entire drive was one large game drive, as we never left the Serengeti and saw hundreds of gazelle, zebras, and other of the more common animals. The difference is that we weren't actively looking for game, and because of this were traveling a little faster than we would on a game drive.

More hours of bumpy, dusty, washboard roads. My elbows are bruised from banging on the side of the window. I have learned, however, that I can rest my foot on my backpack and that eases the discomfort on my knee. Actually, the knee is of little consequence because there is so little walking to be done. My activity is limited to walking to and from my room/tent to the lounge/dining area or the jeep!

Shortly before we arrive at our new lodge, we spot a cheetah laying in the shade of a tree near the road. As Godson has explained, the animals do not know it is a road, so have no hesitation in lying near it. We took pictures, then continued on our journey.

After checking into our lodge and having lunch, we went on another game drive. This time we spotted our first leopard, lounging in a tree. We also saw a small animal, which appeared to be a small gazelle, in the branches of a nearby tree. It was partially eaten. Later in the afternoon, we spotted the leopard (we assumed it was the same one) up in the tree with the gazelle, dragging it from one branch to another. The leopard must have decided to have a snack.

On this drive we also saw some hyena pups lying under a tree, zebras, gazelle, giraffes (Africa is loaded with giraffes, gazelle, and zebras!!!), and a couple more lions. I'm surprised at the number of lions we've seen. I thought we'd be fortunate if we saw one or two, but we've seen some almost every time we went out. The grasses are much taller here in the Seronera section of the Serengeti. It is interesting how well camouflaged the animals are - especially the lions. Sometimes you could only detect a bump or flattening of the grasses, which would eventually reveal a lion if you watched carefully and patiently.

It was a beautiful afternoon, there were a few clouds in the sky and fingers of sunlight would come through and shine on the vastness of the Serengeti plains. It was as though the heavens were blessing the land. We arrived back at the lodge just as the sun was setting. Another stunning African sunset. These are becoming as predictable as the zebras, elephants, lions, and giraffes!!!

Tonight we had a bush dinner. A large fire was built and guards were posted around the perimeters of our outside dining area. As the evening progressed we could actually hear lions in the background. We dined on barbecue pork, sausage, beef, chicken, and calamari. Yes, calamari. It seems a strange thing to be feasting on in the African bush. One of the waiters was exceptionally helpful and kept calling me "Mama" and wanting to carry my things for me. I’m not sure what it means when someone calls you Mama in Africa. I hope it is good. One thing I've really appreciated throughout this trip is how friendly and helpful the people are. They are always smiling and wanting to be sure that things are going well.

Finally we were escorted to our rooms, where the mosquito nets were once again pulled around our beds and we settled down for the night. Have I mentioned that I love Africa?

Our game drive began at 6:30 a.m. The first hour was quiet with few sightings beyond the usual. We are becoming more difficult to please, and the game drives have all been so successful that each day needs something more spectacular. We laugh about when we were excited over giraffes and elephants. Now we usually just drive on by!

About an hour into the drive we came across a pride of lions just off the road that had recently finished gorging themselves on a kill. I'm not sure what it was, but judging from the size of the bone we eventually saw a jackal drag away, it was pretty big. There were 2 males, 2 females, and 2 cubs. All the lions were large and healthy looking. The two males were sunning themselves and the females were kept busy chasing the vultures and jackals away from the leavings. This kept us amused for about 45 minutes. The vultures & jackals would begin to close in on the feast. Just as they would relax and begin to drag food off, one of the lionesses would come leaping out of the grass and charge them, chasing them away. Eventually one lioness took her cubs down to a nearby stream, and the other one gave up the effort, allowing the scavengers to move in. Throughout all of this, the males showed no interest in anything other than digesting their food.

Later on we drove to the Serengeti Center where we had a boxed breakfast and looked around at some of the displays about the area.

After the Center, we drove on and saw more lions, a group of cheetahs, then a young lion with a kill (Thomsons gazelle). Later, we had a little excitement when a male, female, and baby elephant crossed the road to get to some water. Several jeeps stopped to look, as they were so close to the road. One of the jeeps broke down, blocking the road and boxing us in. The adult elephants became agitated and started kicking up dust. The driver of our jeep pulled forward to provide a barrier between the broken down jeep and the elephants to protect the driver as he got out to check his engine. Unfortunately he still couldn't get his engine started. Next one of the jeeps managed to get around him, turn around and push start him. Thank goodness that did the trick. We left the scene, grateful that the elephants hadn't become unsettled enough to charge. My husband and I had been a little nervous throughout this, as I have a friend whose sister-in-law was killed by an elephant last November in South Africa.

That afternoon we rested and attended a lecture about the Serengeti given by a young park ranger. We had the rest of the afternoon at leisure, and after a relatively early dinner we headed for our rooms. We had cancelled our reservations for the hot air balloon ride, scheduled for the next morning, because we were worried that the landing could be bad for my knee. Yahoo!! We would be able to sleep in! We were looking forward to that.

Tomorrow would be our last day. We'd fly to Arusha, rest and clean up in our day rooms, then head for home that night.

They say that all good things must come to an end, and so it was with our safari. We viewed our last day with mixed feelings. We were so tired and missed the comforts of home, but had enjoyed so many wonderful experiences that we were feeling a real sense of loss over leaving. We were able to sleep in, since we had decided not to go on the balloon ride. Originally, as I have already mentioned, we had been scheduled to go on the balloon ride, but realized that landings can be unpredictable, so opted out. We had a quiet breakfast and left the lodge at 8:30 a.m. We drove slowly to the airstrip, looking for game along the way, but didn't see much that really excited us except a lion sleeping on its back with its legs sticking up into the air. Funny how much they can seem like great big, overgrown, domesticated cats!

We were excited about flying out. No more bumpy, dusty, jolting roads!! (Actually, I must admit, I almost came to like those roads!!) We arrived at the Seronera air strip around 10 and boarded our little twin engine, 16 seater plane for the flight to Arusha. I thought I would be nervous, but it was a wonderful experience. The land is vast. We flew over the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater, landed at Lake Manyara, where we picked up a couple more passengers, then proceeded into Arusha. I was struck by how rich and fertile the land seems to be between the Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara. I noticed it when we drove in, but it was especially apparent from the air. Having driven the same route, we had a different perspective from the air, and were able to recognize a number of places where we had been. I saw many kraals, which from the air looked something like ringworm on the land; strange analogy, I know, but apt, I think. I would not have realized what they were if we hadn't driven past so many on our way in. I loved the flight – yet another new experience and great adventure!

We had lunch in Arusha, then went to our day rooms at the same lodge we had stayed in on our first night. We had come full circle. After showering and resting, we left in the early evening for the airport. Along the way we had a beautiful view of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

At the airport, things progressed very slowly. First we stood in line to go through security before we could even enter the airport. There is only one lane to serve the hundreds of people that are catching the flight. Then we stood in line again to check in. Then another line to have passport/visas stamped. There is only one window, so this is a time consuming process. Later we noticed that our exit had been stamped as a day earlier. Oh well, no matter.

We met a young woman in line who was just finishing up a month on Tanzania. She had been living with a family and helping them learn about sustainable farming. On her way home she had climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro. I certainly have admiration for her. As we were checking in our luggage, I noticed that she was having trouble getting all her bags checked. I’m not sure what the problem was, but I keep thinking about her and hoping it all worked out for her.

Finally we were on board our jet and took off for Dar es Salaam. Upon arrival there, the plane was cleaned up, restocked, and we headed back north toward Amsterdam. The flight was a little over 11 hours. We arrived in Amsterdam early in the morning, and after a 6 hour layover, caught our flight for New York, then San Francisco, arriving about 36 hours after we left Arusha. It was a long journey.

I love Africa and cherish every moment we spent there. It was an amazing experience and I feel so fortunate, on so many levels, to have had this adventure!

Thanks, Patty. My knee and I are glad too!!! The experience has been good for my recovery. I came home knowing that if I can manage Africa with my knee, I can manage about anything. I really do have many of you on this board to thank for encouraging me to go instead of canceling. It is probably one of the best decisions I have ever made.

Fantastic report! I really enjoyed all of your insights and the journey you chose sounds just perfect. I am planning for early January in East Africa. We did Safari in South Africa last December and had a magnificent time!

Jenn - she will be our second grandchild. Her big brother, who is 2, was our first. My husband and I love being grandparents. I talked to my daughter this afternoon, but she says no signs of labor yet. Our bags are packed and ready to make the trip as soon as we get the call!

I just found your trip report, it made me feel as if I were there. What time of the year did you go? Was the weather HOT? I haven't found a good travel agent where I live, and could use help in that department. Any help you could give would be appreciated. You can email me if you wish. Granddaughter here yet?

Our trip to Tanzania was in early September, 2006 - just last month. It feels so strange having had such a profound experience, and now being home with life going on as usual. I feel as though I should look different -- or something.

The weather was terrific. One night there was a little rain, but we were surprised how pleasant the temperatures and humidity were. We had expected it to be a lot warmer since we were so close to the Equator. (Not to imply that it wasn't warm -- it just wasn't hot.) I don't like hot weather, and I was quite comfortable.

There is so much interesting, helpful information about Africa here on this site. Just type in a keyword that you may have a question on in the search box. Or, if you have specific questions, post the question. There are many people here much more knowledgable than I am who can answer just about any question! Where are you thinking you would like to go?

No granddaughter yet. It should be any day. The waiting is so difficult - probably more so for our daughter than us, however!!!

I love that you were at the Crater for the full moon and your husband's birthday. I have planned the same thing next year for my husband's birthday in September--checked when the full moon was and amazingly it fell on his birthday, so I made sure we'd be there that day. Can't wait! I'm shivering at the thought of cold showers at Tarangire River Camp, though.

Kmania -- seeing the full moon rise over the Crater was memorable. I remember telling my husband at the time that it would always be a part of who we are for the rest of our lives.

My husband's birthday was celebrated at Kirawira, and do they know how to celebrate!!! The evening before we saw someone else celebrating in Ngorongoro. Be sure to clue someone in that it is your husband's birthday. I can think of nowhere more special to celebrate a birthday than Africa.

I've been putting together a DVD of the photos I took in Africa, complete with some music. It is wonderful reliving the experience. Thank you for responding to my trip report - thereby bringing it back to my attention. I am wallowing in nostalgia.

On another note -- my granddaughter was born two weeks ago and is healthy and beautiful. I was at the birth, which is yet another amazing experience. What a wondrous time the past two months have been for me.