Columbia serves up fine value

Bob Hosmon Tasting Notes

May 1, 2008|Bob Hosmon

The wines of Washington state just don't get the respect they deserve. For decades, wineries there have produced first-rate wines that are bargains. Indeed, if we look at just one Washington producer, namely Columbia Winery, everyone can learn to appreciate what good value they've been missing.

Over the past two decades Columbia Winery has established itself as one of a handful of larger winemakers in the state that effectively compete with the "big boys" in California. A recent tasting of some of their wines makes a strong case for why they should succeed.

Consider the 2007 Columbia Winery Pinot Gris. This clean, crisp white, which never gets near an oak barrel, is as refreshing a pinot gris as I've ever tasted.

I also like the 2006 Columbia Winery Riesling. Produced from grapes grown in the Yakima Valley, this fruit-forward white has a clean finish and is a perfect summer-sipping aperitif. Washington has always produced better Rieslings than California.

When to it comes to red wines, the most successful varieties in Washington are cabernet sauvignon and syrah.

The 2005 Columbia Winery Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a richly flavored red, delivering dark cherry flavors and hints of spice. Cab fans will like what they taste. But the red that gets my attention is the 2005 Columbia Winery Red Willow Vineyard Syrah. It tastes of juicy red fruit and wild berries with a lingering finish.

Serve with: I enjoy them with goat cheese and mushroom pizza as well as grilled tuna. The riesling also goes well with spicy Asian dishes. The cabernet sauvignon shows best with rich-flavored meats such as hamburger or prime rib. The syrah is especially nice with roast duck and grilled root vegetables.

Availability/suggested retail: Sold in wine and some food shops, the pinot gris and riesling are about $14 a bottle; the cabernet, $27; and the syrah, $30.

Wine of the week

Selection: The Baileyana Firepeak Vineyard Chardonnay, produced in California's Edna Valley, is a classy white. It's the perfect choice for that special meal with family and friends.

Serve with: Roast chicken with herbs or truffles, lobster with butter sauce or Cornish game hen.

Availability/suggested retail: Sold in better wine shops for about $30 a bottle.

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