18 February 2009

As you know, I belong to the bestest baking group the world has ever seen, The Bakers Dozen. If you love to bake, whether you make money at it or not, you can join. We have 4 meetings a year, and they're all worth calling in sick for. A wealth of inspiring information buzzes through the meetings, and questions and answers and friendships and better cakes and jobs and cookbooks are just a few of the benefits of being a member.

One of my favourite parts about being part of the Bakers Dozen is the opportunity to be in a room full of my heros and heroines, and becoming the same for others. Eggbeater's Guest Author of today's post, Anastasia Kellow, Bakers Dozen member extraordinaire, is one such person!

I feel forever grateful to be in her field of vision. I have no idea where she came from, but Anastasia has been a support and mentor and idea maker for me for a few years now. Not to mention that she brought her entire family to one of my classes a few years ago.

The Bakers Dozen has a Yahoo Group for sharing ideas, asking & answering questions, finding equipment and professional kitchens to rent, looking for staff and announcing wondrous events within the greater Bay Area baking community. (No I am not being paid to do PR for the BD.) recently someone started a thread based on "alternative baking," and Anastasia's answer/comments were so down-to-earth, funny, practical and knowledgable, I asked her if she would be willing to expound more and give a piece to my blog.

Please brew a cup of tea with almond milk and give a warm welcome to Anastasia Kellow, first time guest blog author to eggbeater ~

Vegan
Baking Tips

I
am not a vegan. I was born
with heavy cream coursing through my veins. My grandmother had a
Hobart in the garage, and would buy unsalted butter in huge 20 kg
blocks. I had a diet rich in both animal and plant sources. One day
my body betrayed me. Unable to distinguish friend from foe, it
started panicking and doing crazy things. In order to appease it,
I started following a whole food, organic, plant-based diet for
nearly a year. I’m no Nazi though– I follow a 97/3 rule: 97% of the time I’m on the straight and narrow and 3%
is for when, for instance, I’m at Ubuntu, and I have to have
the lemon parfait with citrus granita. I've used gelatin for panna
cotta, and sometimes eat butter on popcorn. You can eat whatever you
like. I may judge, but I’ll never mention it.

I
am not a baker. I was
formally trained and have worked in professional kitchens, but I can
no longer eat any of the primary building blocks of baking. No butter, sugar, eggs, or wheat. In baking terms, that’s
like trying to build a house from sand. It’s risky, and you
need to approach it very, very carefully.

Clearly
these are Shuna’s top two reasons for asking me to post my
vegan baking tips.

Vegan
baking can be rough going. Most of the cookbooks are written by
vegans in search of baked goods, rather than by bakers in search of
vegan alternatives. This can mean the focus is not on flavor and
texture; it’s about creating a faux product.

In the real vegan
world, Earth Balance butter is a rock star. Substitutions like
Earth Balance and Ener-G egg replacement are easy, and are the crux
of many recipes. If you use margarine in your every day life, have
at it. But if like me you’re of the “food should taste
great” camp, these sorts of ingredients fall short.

I don’t eat
faux meat, and I’m certainly not eating what I consider to be
faux cookies!

Rather
than rely on vegan baking books, I have found it much more satisfying
to create my own recipes based on excellent conventional recipes I
trust.

Below are some starting points for converting recipes.
Many of the ingredients are expensive, making them unsuitable for
most production baking. You have to rely on your knowledge of baking
science, instinct and some amount of tinkering. In the case of
substitutions like tofu for eggs, you may also need to alter your
technique.

Don’t
try to make crazy stuff like angel food cake or soufflé that
totally rely on eggs for their execution.

You
are creating a new recipe. Don’t expect the same result when
you’re altering ingredients.

Aim
for deliciousness by any standard. Vegan food should not have a
lesser standard.

Feature
fruit. It’s super easy and delicious to roast fruit, or make a
vegan pie or crisp. Fruit at its peak of flavor takes some pressure
of your other elements. Fruits and veggies add moisture and flavor.
Pumpkin, zucchini, apples, bananas, and carrots are all good
additions..

My
disclaimer is that I have not done vast testing. I only bake once or
twice a month (see 97/3 rule). I don’t use all-purpose flour
and mostly use agave nectar. Multiple substitutions often mean
trouble, so start with one element at a time.

Keep in mind that
these are all substitutions that work well for me. Plant-based diets
are a very personal thing. They range from super healthy to
shockingly unhealthy. Please use what works for you, and leave the
rest behind.

Butter
is not just a fat – it is a huge flavor enhancer. Consider how
much flavor butter usually brings to the table when making your
substitution.

Nut
oils lend a great flavor if you can afford them. I use walnut
oil over something like grapeseed. I don’t use canola, because
I find it coats the tongue. If I use oil, I fall back on the quick
bread technique – mix liquids, sift dry ingredients, fold
together.

Nut
butters, like almond, hazelnut, or peanut, can be substituted for a
portion of the fat.

Coconut
oil is delicious, and can be creamed like butter. It does have an
underlying coconutty flavor. Despite being called oil, this fat is solid
below 76 degrees Farenheit. [click here for a farenheit to celcius converter] I believe the melting point for butter is 90-95F,
so it’s going to bake differently.

Also, Coconut Oil is a saturated fat.
There is much brouhaha these days about the nutritional
viability of saturated fats. Harbinger of death or nutritional messiah? I can’t
say. My nutritionist says it may be a lesser evil than butter, but
even she’s not sure.

Coconut
butter is not the same as coconut oil. It includes both oil and
coconut meat, making it drier and slightly textured. In baking, coconut butter needs to
be supplemented with extra moisture. I have used it successfully in
pie crust, but mostly I stick to the coconut oil.

Tofu
adds more structure than flaxseed. I like it better for cakes and
some muffins. The tofu needs to be blended until completely smooth
so you don’t end up with lumps. I usually blend all the
liquids together, and then fold them into the dry ingredients. I
despise the smell of tofu (and most soy products), but the flavor and
aroma mostly bake out (or are at least camouflaged by other
elements.) Though, as of yet I have not been able to make a successful vanilla
flavored item.

Flaxseed
is more of a binder than a leavener. It has an earthy flavor that's
not always desirable. It works well in cookies that can take the
unique flavor-- oatmeal, nut, spice. You can grind up flaxseeds in a
coffee grinder, then whisk in the 3T of water. Whisk until you get the gloopy egg white-like consistency. If a cookie has only 1 egg, you can
usually go commando.

For
buttermilk, 1 c = 1/2 c
almond milk + 1/2 c soy yogurt

For
cream, equal part (= direct conversion) coconut
milk. This works well for ganache as well as caramel. I have
never attempted whipping it up like cream, but I think it would work
if you removed some of the water. David Lebovitz has a great recipe
for chocolate-coconut sorbet in The Perfect Scoop.

For
milk, equal part
alternative milk. I use almond milk because I like the flavor.

Grains:
before going off wheat, I was using sprouted spelt flour, sprouted
wheat flour, oat flour and barley flour. Alternative flours can have
strong flavors, which can be a benefit or detriment depending on your
perspective.

I often substitute up to 1/3 nut flour, which helps
bring some added flavor to the final product. You can certainly stick
to AP. If you switch up flours, expect some adjustments in your
liquids. Different flours absorb moisture differently.

Though
not technically baking, pancakes are an excellent place to start
substitutions. They come together quickly, so you can see and taste
your results in minutes. If they fall flat, there is still time for
toast.

Here
is my go to pancake recipe ~

Sprouted
Grain Pancakes

-- makes
around 12 4” pancakes

½
c. sprouted spelt flour

½
c. sprouted wheat flour

1
t. baking powder

½
t. baking soda

¼
t. salt

1T
agave nectar

¼
c silken tofu

¾
c. plain or vanilla soy yogurt

3/4c.
almond milk

2
T coconut butter, melted

½
t vanilla

Whisk
together all the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Pour all the
liquids (agave nectar through vanilla) into a blender, and mix on
high speed until tofu is completely smooth. This might take a couple
minutes. Pour the liquids into the dry ingredients, folding gently, taking care not to overmix.

Heat
a non-stick griddle over medium low heat until water beads dance on
the surface. Pour 1/3 c. (or any size you like) pancakes on the
grill and brown on each side.

Comments

This is very interesting. I've actually been testing gluten-free cakes and cookies on and off, using coconut flour/fiber. But it's a tricky thing. I found a book on it though and hoping to work on it some more in the near future.

Most vegan, gluten-free and organic items can either hard-to-find or very expensive here. Bummer.

I am not vegan but because of the severe dairy allergy (milk proteins, butter, cheese, caseine) I cannot use any of those things. I have great success with vegan baked goods It does require a commitment to getting taste and textures right but it can be done SUCCESSFULLY. My Sister friend and New York Times Reviewed Author (The Black Girl Next Door) Jennifer Baszile makes some chocolate chips cookies that will make you smack yo mama they are so good! Trying to get her sell her creations!

Keep at it. You will be pleasantly surprised at how some things are better than the traditionally made baked goods.

Wonderful piece for vegan bakers. I wrestle with not only vegan baking but gluten-free vegan baking (I'm allergic to dairy and eggs and a host of other ingredients). It's a challenge working with such a limited palette. But when you create a success? It is damn sweet.

Thanks for the attention to vegan baking! I'm not vegan but I have vegan friends and I love a challenge. Some things work out great with minimal fuss, but others...

Anastasia, I'm particularly interested in your mention of pie crusts made with coconut oil/butter. I've tried it myself (several times) with coconut oil as a way to make a vegan pie crust without shortening, but I can't get good results. I can't get the fat to sheet out the way butter does and I end up with little pebbles of solid coconut oil mixed with flour. I have to add water to get any kind of dough and the result is a crumbly dough and tough crust. Does anyone ahve any tips for working with coconut oil for pastry?

Coconut oil seems to stay harder and melt faster than butter, with a smaller 'soft and pliable' zone.

Kevin ,
I don’t think it is possible to achieve the same flakiness, but you can get a decent crust. You are right about the "soft and pliable" zone; it is brief.

I treat the coconut oil like butter – I cut it in bits. I don’t chill it if it is cool enough for the coconut butter to be solid at room temperature (when it is hot, it is liquid at room temperature, and should be chilled). I pulse the flour and salt in the Cuisinart a few times, then add the coconut oil. Unlike butter, coconut oil is 100% fat. There is no additional water content. This means you will likely be adding more water than you would with butter. Add only enough so the mixture comes together when you press it together in your fingers. It is super important to then let it rest for about an hour, so the moisture has a chance to hydrate the flour. If your room temperature is kind of cool, you can do this without refrigerating. If your dough has been resting in the refrigerator, let it sit out for 10-15 minutes before attempting to roll -- the coconut oil can become as hard as a rock. You can give it a few gentle whacks with the rolling pin to help soften it up. Do chill (even freeze) your rolled out crust once you have placed it in the pie plate. This will help the crust keep its shape and help those little pockets of fat melt a little more slowly.

The resulting crust is less flaky than a butter crust and bit more crisp.

I'm so happy to see this post. It is great to know that someone with professional baking experience is on our team! I have Celiac and have been gluten free for 3 1/2 years and mostly vegan for the last year. I've had a lot of success with gluten free vegan bread baking but as of yet have not conquered gluten free vegan pancakes. I'm not sure it's possible. I can't begin to tell you how much flour (and other ingredients) I've wasted. I'm a mad pancake scientist! I'm going to attempt your Sprouted Grain pancakes but I'll sub gluten free flours. If you have any suggestions I would be most grateful! Thank you!

I wonder if the soft and pliable zone of coconut oil could be extended by emulsifying it with water. This would result in a perishable product, like butter, but might end up with some more of its desirable baking characteristics. I'll have to try this out once I figure out how to do the emulsification and not have it separate. Melt, Vitamix and then flash-freeze?

Isa Chandra Moskovitz has a really good buckwheat gluten-free pancake in her Vegan Brunch book. I'm not a vegan but love her cookbooks for finding things I can make for my Celiac and dairy/egg-free sister, plus her recipes are just excellent for all purpose eating. Thanks for the baking tips that do not rely on junque to make things work!

Thank you both, Shuna and Anastasia, for this post-- as a cook and baker dedicated to flavor and nutrition, conscience and flexibility, I have been underwhelmed by most of the vegan recipes I have tried. There should not be a lower standard of taste and texture! These tips are very helpful; as I continue to explore the many worlds of pastry, I'll be using them with gratitude.

I am Vegan and have a hard time with the rise in a finished product, I have tried every egg replacer there is but the rise in the finished product just isn't the same. i think that pro. vegan bakers use some sort of dough enhancer not available to home bakers. I bought the Baby Cakes cookbook and nothing has come out right, but when you go to the bakery the products are gorgeous.

Hello Linda-- you may want to call or email Babycakes. Dough enhancers are really only used with very large scale commercial baking, which Babycakes certainly is not.

I'm not sure you are not going to get the same lift with egg replacers that you would with eggs. My own experience with eating vegan baked goods is that they tend to be a lot denser, and so are generally built smaller, to make up for the heft. ~ Shuna

I used Bob's Mill mix yesterday for corn bread and replaced the 2 eggs, the rest the same and after 60 minutes (recipe said 25) it was still raw. There was too much dough to make it smaller, do you mean if I had made muffins or 2 smaller loaves it might have cooked?

This month’s egg substitute is vinegar. I read in a couple of books that 1 tablespoon of vinegar along with 1 teaspoon of baking soda can be substituted for 1 egg. Both white distilled vinegar and apple cider vinegar can be used. This combination works best in cakes, cupcakes and quick breads. I also read in few forums that 2 tablespoons of lemon juice can be used in place of the 1 tablespoon vinegar. So for this event you could use either.

Yesterday I made Nick Malgieri's Supernatural Brownies which take 4 eggs. I used 2 T vinegar w/ 2tsp. baking powder for 2 and 2T soy flour w/2T water for the other two. They came out great but were too sweet, I wonder in the food science world the sugar was sweeter because there was no fat to absorb it, next time I will use less sugar.

I have come to the conclusion that Vegan baking sucks, if you are making a simple cake/cupcakes it's OK but for anything more complicated just doesn't work, you need the eggs for more than the rise, you need the fat to absorb the sugar and the end product is dense and dry. I have made every recipe I can make in the 2 years i have been Vegan and I have not been pleased with anything other than a simple chocolate cake w/PB frosting. I use the cake recipe for everything I make and just change the flavoring but it is a piss poor excuse for anything fancy or fine. Ugh!

in culinary school we were never allowed to use the cuisinart to make pie crust because of the chance of the flour and butter getting overmixed, and then forming too much gluten when the water is added. instead we pinched the butter into the flour by hand until there were small thin pieces of butter left. i wonder if this technique would work well for the coconut oil pie crust dilemma. the warmth of your hands would soften it a bit so you don't get the hard balls of oil in your crust. if it gets too melty and oily, pop it in the fridge for a few minutes, and then continue, or maybe put your bowl over an icebath to maintain the cold temperature. then just add in your water/liquid until it just barely holds together and voila!

Thank you, because I am at the end of my rope! With the chia seed do you have the equivalent to an egg? Gee that maybe what I need is the gelatinous piece I was only thinking of the rise, thanks so much

for the above agar-agar is the answer. Also, I have learned that sorghum and tapioca flours mixed w/cornstarch helps a product that is vegan. if anyone wants to contact me I can be reached at lindakins@optonline.net