The towers of Kaiping: China's unsung historic treasure

By Evie Liu, for CNN

Updated 2159 GMT (0559 HKT) August 12, 2013

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The towers of Kaiping – About 1,800 castle-like towers dot the landscape around Kaiping, a Chinese city near Guangzhou in the Pearl River Delta. Some of the towers date to the Ming dynasty. Others were constructed in the early 20th century and bear obvious Western influences.

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Fusion architecture – A flamboyant fusion of Chinese and Western design, Kaiping's diaolou (watchtowers) were originally built as a defense against bandit raids. In the 20th century, as Chinese emigres returned from overseas with newfound riches, they became symbols of wealth and status.

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Fields and fortresses – In 2007, Kaiping received a UNESCO Heritage Site listing for its diaolou.

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Watchtowers and residences – There are three types of diaolou -- residential, communal and defensive.

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Kaiping high-rise – Regular flooding in the Kaiping area was another reason for building residential towers.

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Panoramic views – The steep climb to the top of a diaolou isn't easy. The reward is a view like this.

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Melting pot – In the early 20th century, many Kaiping residents emigrated abroad. Some returned home with great wealth, bringing back trends and ideas from the Western world and incorporating these new ideas into the city's existing tower tradition.

Extravagant touches – A private canal was built next to Li Garden, connecting to waterways leading to Hong Kong (about 133 kilometers from Kaiping in a direct line). Foreign construction material was brought in via the canal.

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Gilded cage – Li Garden owner Weili Xie built this pavilion shaped like a birdcage to entertain his second and favorite wife. (He had four.)

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Time travel – The villages of Kaiping still look much the way they did in centuries past.

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Stories from abroad – Due to massive emigration from the area, almost every Kaiping family has relatives overseas, says Liwen Huang of the Tourism Administration of Kaiping Travel Resource Development Center.

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Story highlights

The watchtowers in Kaiping, China, were originally built for defense against bandit raids

They received a UNESCO World Heritage Site listing in 2007

In the early 20th century, wealthy emigrants returned to Kaiping and built more towers with Western influences

They're tall, they're historic and they're one of the most significant collections of freestanding treasures of ancient China.

They're the "diaolou" of Kaiping, more than 1,800 centuries-old watchtowers that dot the rice fields around the city of Kaiping in the Guangdong Province.

Despite the city's gorgeous landscape and a UNESCO World Heritage Site listing, Kaiping sees relatively few visitors each year -- for China, anyway.

Last year's record 600,000 visitors was disappointing for local officials, who lament that Kaiping is more deserving of visitors than more well known cities in China, which can hit that number in a week.

China's official desire to raise Kaiping's profile is understandable -- the city offers a rare and tranquil travel experience that doubles as a history lesson on unique Chinese architecture.

Fusion architecture

About 1,800 diaolou remain in Kaiping.

The multistory watchtowers were built in the beginning of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) as a defensive response to incessant bandit raids.

Heavy flooding in the area also played into the need for towers and three types of diaolou emerged over the centuries; defensive, residential and communal.

"Most diaolou were designed with reinforced structures, thick walls and small windows," explains Liwen Huang, marketing manager for the Tourism Administration of Kaiping Travel Resource Development Center.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Kaiping became a major source of overseas emigres.

Many Kaiping natives eventually returned to the homes with newly acquired wealth, and built diaolou with Western touches incorporated into the architecture.

Residential diaolou became a way for owners' to display their wealth via flamboyant designs.

Along with the ancient diaolou's historic significance, the unique fusion of Chinese and Western architecture was a major factor in UNESCO's 2007 decision to confer World Heritage Site designation upon the structures.

Baroque, Roman and Gothic influences are clearly visible in many of the watchtowers.

"Chinese who went overseas brought these exotic elements back home, as they found Western architecture splendid while they were abroad," says Huang.

In some cases, local builders worked from images on postcards that were sent from abroad, creating unique designs.

Li Garden

The splendid "birdcage" pavilion was built by Weili Xie to entertain his second wife.

The best example of a luxurious diaolou can be found at Li Garden, in the Beiyi Xiang district.

Built in 1936 by wealthy Chinese emigrant businessman Weili Xie (he had four wives and more than 20 children), the 11,000-square-meter complex is composed of one diaolou, six villas, two gardens, waterways and bridges.

The luxurious interior was built with materials imported from overseas.

The complex was equipped with then-modern Western elements, such as flushing toilets, sinks, marble tile and fireplaces -- this at a time when most Chinese were living in tiny cottages with outdoor toilets.

The garden has 20-meter steel pillars, a huge golden pavilion shaped like a birdcage and a green pond for turtles.

Each window was built with at least four panes of glass to protect against firearms.

What to eat while in town

Grass jelly: one of Kaiping's most popular summer snacks.

Sweets are a specialty of Kaiping street stalls.

Grass jelly: Made of mesona chinensis, a Chinese herb, grass jelly is one of Kaiping's most popular summer snacks. The jelly tastes best when served with shaved ice, syrup, honey or condensed milk. The sweetness balances the mild bitterness of the herb.

Tofu pudding: A popular local dessert, tofu pudding has a delicate, creamy texture. Locals add a little sugar to make it more flavorful.

Maltose sticks: A short wooden stick is used to stir, then mount melted maltose -- turning it into a delicious golden, sticky snack.

How to get there

A private canal near Li Garden connects to waterways leading all the way to Hong Kong.

Fly to Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport, take a taxi to Tianhe Coach Terminal Station, which should cost about RMB120 ($20); buses depart from Tianhe Coach Terminal Station to Kaiping from 7:30 a.m. to 7:15 p.m.; tickets cost RMB38 ($6).