In the late 19th century, Toronto’s Lake Ontario waterfront hosted the second-largest pork processing plant in North America. It’s long gone now, but it left the city with its enduring nickname, “Hogtown.” The whole of the waterfront has changed dramatically over the years, as industry closed or moved elsewhere, and a renovated industrial building along the Queen’s Quay now houses one of the premier art galleries in Canada: the Power Plant. This past spring, the gallery used a sculpture commissioned from Turner Prize winner Simon Starling to link a vitally important episode in the city’s aesthetic history with the lake that is Toronto’s reason for being here at all.