If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Installing shims in the Level 10

If the carrier is not pushed all the way down into the power tube, the shims will get caught up in the threads where the power tube tip screws in. To prevent this, push the carrier all the way down (can use a pen or pencil), then with the power tube facing up, put in the shims. Make sure the shims are all the way down on the carrier (past the threads). Keep the power tube pointed up and install the power tube tip.

Great point! Thanks Eric! I installed a link to this thread in Toms "Classic: All LVL 10 Info Here"

My 2 cents: Another way to make sure is to install the carrier and push it down the best you can and then thread the new PT tip all the way down to be sure. If it doesn't go all the way down then it's not fully seated. Once it does screw all the way in, hand tight, you can remove it and place the shims in with no worries that they will be caught when you replace it.

Removing Carriers...

I appreciate the tip on getting the carrier all the way in before dropping shims but do you have any good tips for getting the dang thing back out when you realize you need the next size smaller?

Thanks,
Midway

Wimberley Financial Services
Houston, Texas
866-307-4222
---------------------------
Changed Jobs Recently?
Let us show you how easy it is to take control of your old 401(k)...
----------------------------

Removing Carriers Part II

Well, I didn't have a dental pick around so I used an old tent stake. The cheap metal ones that come with a two man tent and bend if you try to actually put them in the ground. They worked perfectly for pulling out the carrier.

Now if only I had a couple of scuba tanks to break the O-rings in on... I have gone through my 90-4500 twice now during this installation and just as I'm getting close, phhhhhhffffff.... Out of air again. Oh well, guess I'll be waiting until tomorrow to find out if I got it right this time...

um load? that cant be good! lol. I guess it is time to give tom a call. HEy, you might be able to snag a new aluminum valve if your lucky! Oh, and i got my grips

Originally posted by Tom in reffrence to a post saying he acted like my dad...
"That's right!
WHO'S YOUR DADDY!!"
ALL QUIT AND NO GO!!! Team Icky Forest-Shatnerball 2003!!!www.tunamart.com
DONT SUPPORT HYPOCRITICAL MISSLEAD YOUTH, BOYCOTT HK

My brother has a retro valve that does this as well. Mine doesnt but his does. Its rather odd, as the powrtube and base unscrew, and there is a large reddish o-ring around it. No problems arise from it its just......different. (edit: oh and his is newer than mine, mines a 600 and his is an 1800)

Guys, make sure you aren't using the blue bumper on your RT valves that have the PT body that unscrews completely. If you use the blue bumper instead of the clear urethane one, the excess vibration on the valve body caused by the bumper being too hard and the high ROF the RT valve puts out will cause the weld on the PT to break and be able to unscrew.

That's one way it can happen and it can happen even if the gun is used normally. It's not good at all that it unscrews so you need to put some red 271 loctite on the threads and thread it all the way back in and let it sit for about 12 hours before using it.

Breakaway powertubes...

So what you're saying Black is putting my valve in the vice and trying to get it to come apart is not a good idea??

Has anyone else had the piston come out of the Superbolt and end up inside the valve body? I got it back out and put back together but I don't think that was supposed to happen and I'm not sure what I might have done to cause it. Any thought?