Does look ok . To be sure you can ask a 2nd shop , but people here know rough prices also . It is however depending or area etc , so small differences are there and on the small items like the 4.5 baht conder blocks , 0.5 baht difference is quite big ( however it is only a very very small cost to the intire house) . Cement is more important price since you need more of it and 95 baht also looks ok . Cpac concrete 1700 b m3 is ok .

CPAC differs a lot depending where you are. I have had prices that range from 1,250 to 1,950 per cu.This may depend also on the prices of sand and aggregate. In some areas aggregate is a little as 350 per cu, while in others it's almost double. In some areas, such as the road paralel to the Mekong, they almost give the sand away at 350 - 400 baht for a compete truckload.

I'm making a table to show the average price of building blocks, price per sqm and r-value. Could someone help me fill in the blanks? Obviously these will be averages only because price of materials vary depending on location/quantity etc. However I think having a table will be a useful guideline.

Rangsit today home mart aac blocks 4" reduced by 17 baht to 20 + baht each i think a aniversary of some sort so a lot of reduced stuff amazing selection of crappers 36 on one stand ? starting as little as 2000baht aw s**t should have put that in plumbing

my comments may be wrong but never deliberatelyIf it aint broke, dont fix it

January 2015 now. I live 75km North of Chiang Mai and I know there are brick factories in Fang, not too far away. How much do you think it would cost me in todays cost, to buy the cheapest building (red) brick, for a non-load bearing wall? I figure the columns and cross beams will bear the weight of the roof, right?Same question for the bigger, grey brick they use here in Thailand? I would like to get an idea of my material costs, before I hire someone to build for me. Been living in Thailand since 2001 and I think the time is near to build on our land. It already came with a nice three-bay shop, which has a two bedroom apartment attached to it, so we don't need storage in the house and inlaws will have apartment if needed or second bedroom.Basically, I want to build a two bedroom, two bathroom house, with a reasonably sized living room/dining room and a seperate kitchen, that vents to the outside (so my wife can make her stinky food and fry chilly without killing me . I also want a roof that overhangs quite a bit, for coolness. On the East side, I want to build a carport/porch, that is wide and has the roof covering it. About a foot above ground and tiled with slip free tile (like the rest of the house). I want a ramp going up, rather than stairs, so it can also be used for a carport, in the future, if needed. The rest of the house, I would like to have about a foot or 18 inches of the ground, too, to prevent splashing in rainy season. There is no threat of flooding where we want to build)I was thinking of maybe double brick outside wall with a gap in the middle, with vents low on the outside and higher inside to draw in cooler air from outside. Lots of Trees and shrubbery for shade. Kitchen must be a good size, because wife basically lives in it and wants a big kitchen. (We used to own a restaurant/bar)

Keeping the place cool is very important to me. Preferably without aircon.

Any advise on what kind of roof?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Especially building material costs.Thank you,Kurt

Hi, I used a double block wall with a 50mm cavity on my build (Refer Udon Thani Happy House Page 8, 9 10 & 11). Cost of my block types is posted on Page 9 and Block work drawing layout at the bottom of Page 8

House slab is 400mm off the ground, with lots of trees around for shade an large verandah overhangs to keep the sun of the walls, particularly on the south side. Has a large living area with 3 Bedrooms

Kurt wrote:Keeping the place cool is very important to me. Preferably without aircon.

Any advise on what kind of roof?

Hi Kurt

The best roof for keeping cool is insulated white steel. You can get locally made cheaply or better quality ColourBond, they both work. We've used both. For insulation you can go with spray PU (Fred), factory applied PU (RR) or something else. The first two are the better choices.