Description

A fantastic area for rainy or sunny days! A decent selection of 5+ to 6c+ with a few 7's. It is broken up into three areas. The Entrance Buttress has a few tall clean lines, though the lower routes don't see much traffic - the starts and sections of the wall are overgrown, the holds are dirty, and there is some suspect rock - but the right side is better. It does not go into the shade until late afternoon and will get wet in rain. The First Cave routes start at the top of the hill. Really amazing setting! You can also continue out the back side and slightly down hill and around the corner to the Second Cave, which contains some harder routes, one of which climbs through the ridiculous tufa forest. Breathtaking views out over the countryside from here.

Getting There

Not the easiest crag to find... go straight at the intersection as if going to Wine Bottle or Moon Hill. When you cross the bridge over the river, take a right on the first major road. Take this into town and stay left, passing along a steep, vegetated wall on your right. Stay on the "main" road (more left-ish, not towards Twin Gates) and into another village. Continue along this paved road, past a school yard, and then turn right into a narrow alley that widens and continues past more houses, and eventually into farmland. The obvious caves should appear presently. Park your bike in a gravel pullout then walk 5-10 minutes along the cliff.

Much harder than the given 10b, though it doesn't look it. Make tough moves up to the first clip (spinner). Continue through more moderate moves to a perplexing series of throws to slopey-azz holds. Clench, then bear down through easier moves to the awkward stance in the ledge cave. Clip into the weird, vertically-oriented anchors....[more]Browse More Classics in International