Protection

After you mantle that giant chickenhead, there is a variation finish that goes out right to that "flake" ear thingy. Can be a little gritty sometimes, and adds a more sustained finish to what Nathan called weak (the real finish is super easy escape left and up if'n yer scared). This variation apeared sometime around 95 I think, maybe earlier? Calderone maybe, I dunno, don't quote me on that. Anyway, it is kind of fun, even though you cast off, before you can see the bolt, maybe a touch runout depending on your friction skills. try it, sure to excite! Again tougher for short folks...."look" for that chickenhead over e lip!

So went back and it seems the two new routes to the left that share the same anchor (5.5 rib and 5.8 to its right) don't squeeze to badly onto Comfort Zone which is a great route and well worth doing. Take care getting to the first bolt - you can use the weird bolt on the in-direct start (to the left) to get a draw/rope on the first bolt to make it safer. After the mantle, I've always climbed to the right to get to the final bolt and you can get a small tcu in the seam before it.

I've done the route to the left and right going up to the final bolt. It's easier, but far less interesting on the left side. Go to the right into the shallow dihedral for superior friction moves and a exciting finish. The crux comes after clipping the bolt anyway so you're almost doing the moves on toprope. Fantastic moves reaching for that final chickenhead.