I’m after some advice. When we bought this house there was a crappy tiled floor in the bathroom - tiles wobbled and grout was all cracked.

I’ve finally got around to refitting the bathroom. Plannng to retile the floor with mosaic hexagons but want some advice on prepping the floor first.

Attached is 2 picture of what we currently have and 1 picture of what we want.

I’ve tiled plenty of walls and prepared floors for laying real wood but not tiled a floor before.

The current tiles were laid straight on to the floor boards which explains the issues we’ve seen.

My current thinking is one of two options:1. Scrape all the adhesive off the floor boards, plane down where proud, add a load more screws and lay ply boards over it. If we go with this option how thick should the ply be? Don’t want to raise the floor height too much. Tile onto the ply.

2. Remove all the boards and lay 18mm ply on to the joists. Tile on to the ply. Current boards are about 18mm thick so this shouldn’t affect floor height as much but is pricier and more work

Wondering what a professional would do in this situation? Option 1, option 2 or something else?

I am going through the same investigation at the moment all be it my floor is different from yours and had no issues. I am a novice like you but from what I have read so far and from the images you have I would think it would be best to take that up and use the Green chipboard floorboards you can get, these have a waterproof layer on them.

Ply once ingressed with water will get ruined. On top of the chipboard I would get the 6mm hardie backerboard which seems to be the wepon of choice to give you a solid floor with minimal flex.

As I said I am a beginner like you but that is what my research has shown me so far, it might be a starting point for you to look into while you get other replies.

as above go over the existing boards with nm ply. constantly use a long level or straightedge and check each board both ways before screwin.but first lift a couple of boards and make sure that all the pipework is sound andwell clipped - no rattlin under tap jolt pressure. feeder stubs shouldnt be touching as they pierce the floor. all waste pipes should be glues not pushfit.mark the runs of pipework on the boards before screwing them down. test the boards with your weight for creaks and similar.

as above go over the existing boards with nm ply. constantly use a long level or straightedge and check each board both ways before screwin.but first lift a couple of boards and make sure that all the pipework is sound andwell clipped - no rattlin under tap jolt pressure. feeder stubs shouldnt be touching as they pierce the floor. all waste pipes should be glues not pushfit.mark the runs of pipework on the boards before screwing them down. test the boards with your weight for creaks and similar.

if you want any more help with the b/room return here

Cheers. That’s two votes for NMP. Never even heard of it before but looks great if it delivers everything it promises! My only question is how flat the timber floor has to be? This has a few uneven parts. Would NMP still work?

I emailed the no more ply manufacturers with the images I posted here earlier. Their response was “As long as the boards are well fixed down and swept clean with all existing floor covering removed, you will be fine to put the NoMorePly down onto these floorboards.“

So that’s the plan!

I’m still dubious, might still do some planing of the proud ones and pack out the dipped ones....

I emailed the no more ply manufacturers with the images I posted here earlier. Their response was “As long as the boards are well fixed down and swept clean with all existing floor covering removed, you will be fine to put the NoMorePly down onto these floorboards.“

So that’s the plan!

I’m still dubious, might still do some planing of the proud ones and pack out the dipped ones....

Can't do any harm to check the boards are well affixed, make sure that you use a flexible tile addy.

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