Serpentine Range Traverse

Serpentine Range Traverse

A five day loop beginning and ending at the Routeburn Carpark. This was my first extended trip away from tracks and trails in New Zealand. It certainly did not disappoint.
Day 1: I took off from the carpark, then headed up over Sugarloaf Pass to the Rockburn, which I followed upstream to a home on Theatre Flat.
Day 2: Cold rain hit early today. After only a few hours, I started getting blasted. I decided to wait it out behind a huge boulder about 15 minutes downstream from the Park Pass rock bivvy. When the rain refused to let up, I called it a day and set up camp.
Day 3: I awoke to beautiful conditions, so I took full advantage. I gained Park Pass before traversing south to Lake Nerine and on to North Col. From there, I continued south, following the Serpentine to a beautiful home at a tarn overlooking the North Branch of the Routeburn.
Day 4: I continued the traverse south as clouds boiled up all around me, eventually arriving at a completely socked in Pt 1807. When Lake Wilson decided to make a brief appearance below me, I dropped down to its head for a quick look before climbing back up and around to find a home at the outlet.
Day 5: The morning was relaxed as I dropped down to the Valley of the Trolls and walked out to Lake Harris. From here, it was a quick climb to Harris Saddle and the Routeburn Track, which I followed back out to the carpark just as the weather began to come in again.

Looking back toward the lower Dart Valley and the head of Lake Wakatipu from Sugarloaf Pass

Looking north from Sugarloaf Pass

A section of trail on the way down to the Rockburn Track. I found that aside from Great Walks and more tourist oriented tramping routes, tracks in New Zealand were not easy to walk or easy to follow. Root ladders, washouts, deadfall, and general sliminess all made for slower going than anticipated.

Took an evening jaunt up to Pt 908 to get a feel for the valley. This is the look north toward Park Pass and Amphion Peak.

The first Kea I saw in New Zealand. He came down and hung out with me while I soaked in my surroundings on Pt 908. He demanded attention though. Any time I stopped talking or focused elsewhere, he'd screech relentlessly until I turned back around. And so I was introduced to the Kea personality.

I had only gone a couple hours upstream when a cold sideways rain began pummeling me from upvalley. I found a nice big boulder in the upper Rock Burn to hide behind and wait it out, but the weather never subsided. Eventually, I called it a day and pitched the tent. I'd occasionally get antsy, suckered by the nice view south, but the second I popped out from behind that rock, cold reality would literally knock me backwards again. Sometimes, you just have to listen to your surroundings, relax, and enjoy everything that they are providing.

Looking back downvalley from Park Pass Bivvy the next morning. This comfortable spot is only about 15 minutes upvalley from where I stayed last night. In fact, my home was directly behind the lone squarish boulder on the valley floor in the near center of the frame.

The view out toward the Darrans from Park Pass. Mt Tutoko, the tallest in Fiordland, is poking up on the right.

A look down to Park Pass and up to Park Pass Glacier from the beginnings of the sidle to Lake Nerine.

This tarn has no name, but it's among my favorites nonetheless. A great view over to Park Pass Glacier from the route to Lake Nerine.

A peek at Nereus from above the unnamed lake.

Nereus rises above Lake Nerine. Somnus just hangs out with a cloud in the background.

Everything feels a little different at Lake Nerine. Maybe it had something to do with the little bit of routefinding required to get here, but for the first time since arriving in New Zealand, I felt like I was finally alone with a wild and unique place.

Lake Nerine

Clouds beginning to overtake the Darrans. A look from the ridge above Lake Nerine

More good stuff along the route to North Col

A long look down into the North Branch of the Routeburn from North Col. I enjoyed a nice break here before continuing onward along the Serpentine Range.

Immediately upon cresting the ridge again, clouds began boiling up all around. It made for some interesting travel with occasional peek-a-boo looks out to the surrounding country.

The clouds boiled up quickly today and as a result, I had pretty low visibility for much of the traverse. It was only toward the end of my lunch break atop Pt 1807 that I finally got my first glimpse of Lake Wilson.

Looking back up from the basin above Lake Wilson

Looking upstream from the inlet of Lake Wilson. I dropped down here in hopes of walking the lakeshore around to the outlet, though I quickly learned that wouldn't be possible. It's a great little spot though, and well worth the quick detour.