The cheap-o and rusting tag bracket / tag light is something that I have considered doing something about. I was looking for something nicer; really couldn't find anything.. then starting looking around the shop.

I also have the standard issue (getting worse) with LCI poor excuse for a ramp. The center of the ramp is soft where the foam sheets come together.

So, I decided to kill two birds with on stone.

I used a piece of 1/4" thick 6061 on the inside and a nice thick wall 2-1/2" aluminum angle on the outside. I bolted with through the ramp with two 5/16" carriage bolts; also holding the tag with the same bolts (two sets of bolts / washers).

Covered the top of the alum. angle with diamond plate.

I hope the green letters / numbers don't disappear with the bright green LED light??
WW

All of your mods and willingness to share has been very helpful to a lot of us with limited skills.
We are having the same problem with our ramp door and have been approved for a new one to be installed at the factory. Hoping to also get the fender wells sealed up as there is daylight shining up into the garage.We are going to Tennessee in Oct. and hoping to get an appmt. on our way home.The extra distance to tow is worth it as our dealer hasn't been very helpful other than making the contact's.

All of your mods and willingness to share has been very helpful to a lot of us with limited skills.
We are having the same problem with our ramp door and have been approved for a new one to be installed at the factory. Hoping to also get the fender wells sealed up as there is daylight shining up into the garage.We are going to Tennessee in Oct. and hoping to get an appmt. on our way home.The extra distance to tow is worth it as our dealer hasn't been very helpful other than making the contact's.

You're very welcome B, I don't think mine is under warranty... these plates did make the worst spot better, but I might have to add more alone the middle seam. I hope your second one is better than the first ... as well as, they get the ventilation (LOL) gap fixed. Have a nice and safe trip.
WW

WW,
Reference your post #627 and putting carriage bolts thru the ramp door. I'm thinking about a project to extend my ramp door with a piece of 3/4" plywood to lessen the bottom out potential of my HD Ultra over the threshhold between the ramp and garage floor. Part of my plan would use 4 strap hinges bolted onto the top (when closed) of the ramp door. I'm a little anxious about drilling thru the ramp door because I don't know how it's constructed. Did you have any issues drilling thru the door? Probably wasn't necessary to torque the bolts too tightly for your plate holder, but I'm going to need to torque down the strap hinges pretty tightly...they are going to be supporting about 50 lbs of plywood in transport mode. Any feel for the capacity of the door to withstand a healthy torque. Lastly, did you use anything on the bolt hole on the external side to restrict water intrusion into the inside of the door. BTW, appreciate all your posts...you share some really great info that is good to know, even for those of us who aren't as talented as you seem to be at projects.

WW,
Reference your post #627 and putting carriage bolts thru the ramp door. I'm thinking about a project to extend my ramp door with a piece of 3/4" plywood to lessen the bottom out potential of my HD Ultra over the threshold between the ramp and garage floor. Part of my plan would use 4 strap hinges bolted onto the top (when closed) of the ramp door. I'm a little anxious about drilling thru the ramp door because I don't know how it's constructed. Did you have any issues drilling thru the door? Probably wasn't necessary to torque the bolts too tightly for your plate holder, but I'm going to need to torque down the strap hinges pretty tightly...they are going to be supporting about 50 lbs of plywood in transport mode. Any feel for the capacity of the door to withstand a healthy torque. Lastly, did you use anything on the bolt hole on the external side to restrict water intrusion into the inside of the door. BTW, appreciate all your posts...you share some really great info that is good to know, even for those of us who aren't as talented as you seem to be at projects.

Hey Z. I appreciate the kind words, but I have learned a lot and have gotten many ideas from other members.

If you are drilling inside the aluminum frame ... into the rubber mat area ... this is what you will find, which drills like a hot knife through butter ... 1) appx 1/16" thick fiberglass, 2) appx 3/16" plywood, 3) 1-1/4" Styrofoam, 4) rubber mat ... all "bonded" together, or so it was when new, but it doesn't stay bonded and is weak.

Per Bulletbob, with the party deck option, there is a thin layer of metal beneath the rubber mat so pointed legs don't dent it.

I wonder how strong the hinge attachment will be? I would probably add a metal plate between the hinges and rubber mat and large washers on the outside ... it would be easy to over torque and compress the foam, so use blue loctite snug up but not compress too much.

I think 3M 5200 is ideal to keep water out... I used Geocel Proflex that I had on hand.

The aluminum edge would be stronger but use care (if you do) and hit the hollow found there that runs lengthwise. If you are drilling the edge let me know and I can measure mine to tell you how far from the ramp edge the hollow channel is on my ramp.
WW