Sunday, December 21, 2008

In the November issue of Marie Clarie, Courteney Cox admitted to using Botox, claiming that she hated it. According to Cox, "you know you've messed up when people who are close to you say, 'Whoa, what are you doing?'" Which means that not only did she have some Botox, she had lots.

First, I'm not anti-Botox. My problem is that Courteney Cox is the spokeswoman, the face, of the high-end skincare line Kinerase. I think, frankly, it is unethical to have a cosmetic procedure like Botox done and then pose for a marketing campaign that has your face over the quote "I only trust my skin to Kinerase. It simply works." Apparently, not well enough. Looking at one of Courteney's ads, it should be fair to assume that she owes her unlined visage to the $135 tube of cream she's hawking, not the toxin paralyzing her facial muscles.

Don't condemn Couteney too much though, this is just another example of the illusion of perfection that the beauty marketing industry perpetuates. The reality of this practice came to my attention years ago, when I was a manager for one of the big 3. I remember getting a guide with a cover photo that, for some reason, had not been re-touched. This booklet, meant only for the eyes of the company's associates, showed their famous spokesmodel (a woman who has graced the cover of Vogue and walked the runway of designers from Michael Kors to Yves Saint Laurent) with sun-damaged, greasy looking skin, clumpy eyelashes, and even what looked like some old acne scars. When I received the final marketing a few weeks later, there she was in that same photo, looking as perfect as ever. My bosses would have loved me, I'm sure, but I showed those photos a lot of clients. I thought it was important that they see for themselves that even women who are chosen for their beauty aren't perfect. I provided proof that even with a team of the world's top photographers, makeup artists and hair stylists this beautiful woman still looked like crap sometimes.

The idea that the fashion and beauty industry often advocates unhealthy, unattainable ideals is certainly not a new one. I just feel that in the days where computers can completely alter a face and cosmetic surgery is no longer just for the real housewives of the OC, the lines are being blurred even more. Remember this the next time you look into the mirror and grimace at what you see.

Monday, December 15, 2008

Overdone eye brows are often the fear that keep many people from trying to improve upon this important feature. My best tip for natural looking brows is to use a clean, disposable mascara wand to brush through your brows after filling them.

Whether you use a powder, pencil, cake or gel, this step will soften any harsh lines and ensure that the individual hairs in your brows are separated and lying neatly in place.

Friday, December 12, 2008

Try as you might, you may never get that glowing skin that you so badly desire. It's OK, you can fake it.

You can, of course, buy facial highlighter, but you likely have one in your makeup bag, ready to pull double duty. I have come to depend on shimmery white or nude beige powder eyeshadow to give me the fresh face that is easy and completely natural (looking).

Look for a shimmer without sparkle in either pure white or a pale beige. Fair skin will pop best with a snowy white, while deeper skin tones look best with beige hues with the tiniest bit of gold or bronze. Steer clear of anything that has a silvery cast or visible bits of glitter. Your objective is to highlight, not hi-beam.

Apply the color with your ring finger to the bone just under your eye, above where you apply your blush. Start beneath the outside corners of your eye and blend no further than your pupil toward the bridge of the nose. I also like to apply a bit to the bridge of the nose and the inside corners of my eyes.

The idea is to catch the light as you move, not to look shimmery, so you may not even be able to see the color as you look straight into the mirror. Move around a bit and see what impact it makes. If it looks like you have eyeshadow on your face, blend a bit or try a different shade, both lighter and darker, to see which looks best on you. Most of all, have fun!

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

First, pull out that light, shimmery blue shadow (that you never thought you'd use again.) Apply a pearly white or nude shade on your lids, ending a bit above the crease of the eye, leaving the brow bone bare. Then, using a small eyeshadow brush (smaller than a pencil eraser) apply the blue shadow just around the lash line, both around the top and the bottom lashes. Finish by adding a bit more white in the inner corner of the eyes (nearest your nose). Skip the liner to keep your eyes more open looking, and top it off with a coat of lengthening mascara, or even a set of falsies if you're feeling extra brave.

Compliment your bright eyes by adding a good amount of color to your cheeks- a bright pink or peach will work best. You're looking for that "I just made a snowman" flush, so try a bit more color than you're used to, but balance it out by only applying it to the apples of the cheeks.

Keep your lips simple and shiny, a good bet is a nude or peachy gloss. (Staying sheer also hides chapped lips better than dark shades, while the gloss will help to soothe and protect.) Stay away from frosts or anything pink on your lips to avoid turning this fresh "snow angel" look into a 1983 prom queen.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Winter is here, and if you have dry or combination skin, you may be noticing the effects of the season on your face as well as in the air. Many factors can lead to dryer, flakier, less radiant winter skin. Less humidity in the air outside, indoor heating, even that spiked punch at the company holiday party can add up to changes in your skin that can be very frustrating (especially with so many cameras around!) Here are some tips to help you care for your skin.

Remember, I am not a Dermatologist, so if you have allergies or sensitive skin, test somewhere other than your face (I usually try new products on my belly or the inside of my elbow) for 3 days before moving on...I have extremely sensitive, fair skin and consider myself a good acid test (if I can use it, you probably can too) but, everybody is different- there is NO SUCH THING as allergy free, so if in doubt, test first.

To look fresh faced in the winter, you have to have fresh skin; that means exfoliation. In my opinion, this area of skin care is often misunderstood. Skin cells constantly renew themselves, but this process slows as we age. There are tons of products out there to help speed up or mimic this process, and many are great, but since I'm out of the retail game, here's a simple solution to the problem:

Sugar. Regular, granulated table sugar. All you have to do is mix a teaspoon or so into your normal facial cleanser before you wash, and you've created a gentle scrub safe enough for even most sensitive skin. Mix the sugar and cleanser until you've achieved a gritty creme consistency- not quite a paste- and rub onto skin using your fingertips and a light touch. Move in a circular motion for ONLY about 30 seconds. The sugar will dissolve as you use it, which will help prevent tearing at the skin (which can happen with scrubs that use ground nut shells, sand or pumice). Sugar is also a humectant, meaning it helps to draw moisture into the skin.

The important, and often misunderstood aspect of exfoliating the skin is that less is more. You don't want to sand off the top layers, you simply want to loosen dead cells so that they wash away. Even the oiliest skins don't need daily scrubbing. In my opinion, 3 times a week is the max for oily skin, combination skin twice a week, and dry and sensitive skin should be exfoliated NO MORE than once a week. I understand you'll want to do it more often, but resist. Trust me, your skin will thank you!

I'm Jessica. I've been a makeup artist for 13 years, which is dangerously close to half of my life. If you ask just about anyone who knows me, they'll tell you: I love makeup. It truly is the most comfortable creative outlet for me. I love makeup because it can make you more beautiful, it can hide your (perceived) flaws, it can make you feel better about yourself when you're down. It can also make you feel more confident, in some cases (and I'm not just talking about the Theatre) it can even change a persona.

In my years of being a makeup artist I have seen women moved to tears over something seemingly simple; adding eyebrows to a face that has lost them to chemotherapy, but more than that, having someone to listen. Makeup can be cathartic to the artist and the client. It's true that we live in a vain society- thankfully, we don't all have to worry about paparazzi catching us without so much as concealer when we run to the grocery to pick up milk, though some of us behave as if we do. I am one of those people who doesn't leave the house without a minimum of foundation, concealer and powder on my face. People who think I have perfect skin are mistaken- I'm just really good at faking it!

I think makeup is an art, and not a solitary one. I work best with feedback, with inspiration. I hate those Diva style makeup artists who do what they want to do, ignore the client's desires, and occasionally throw out a veiled (or not-so-veiled) insult in a pathetic attempt to inflate themselves. I think the best way for a client to be confident in my abilities is to like my work. In order for that to happen, it's important to listen. I am confident in my skills and abilities, and to me, that means I'm not scared that the person in my chair is going to ask for a look I can't provide. Go ahead- ask! Tell me what you don't like: I can do makeup, I can not read minds.

In coming posts, I hope to give you insight into who I am, but I also plan on sharing the knowledge I've gathered over my years of working with makeup and skincare. Look for tips and tricks, and maybe even a recipe or two- feel free to ask questions as they come up- I'll do my best to answer what I know or use the resources I depend on to find out.

And I Am...?

Homebase is Cincinnati, OH, and yes, I'm proud to be an Ohio girl! I love the fact that there's a Saks and Tiffany & Co. downtown, but I can drive 15 minutes and see a cornfield! I've been a makeup artist and skin care buff for almost 20 years, in just about every realm of the business you can be in- I've worked retail, managed & trained for major companies, done makeup for theatre, advertising, weddings; you name it! I'm married to the love of my life, soul mate, high-school sweetheart, life partner and other half, Brad, and we have an incredible 7-year-old daughter. I spend most of my time raising my baby (girl scout leader, school-helper, crafting and party planner extraordinaire !)