Flushing/changing oil after water leak

I am in the process of flushing out the crank case after a cracked head leaked water in to the crank case. 2003 F12x
What a PITA
#1 it seems that you can not drain all the oil at one time just by the rear drain/fill hole near the turbo. It will only take out about 32 oz at a time before going dry then you have to wait another 10+ minutes for it to work it's way back through.

I started out by draining all the oil using the rear drain and the main fill hole. Yes it was nice a milky.

I flushed it using 2 1/2 gallons of kerosene and now I am on my 3rd gallon of oil. SLOW process because I'm only using the rear drain so it works it's way through everything.

After running 1 1/2 gallons through it I started the ski. Runs great. I only ran it for 15 seconds before shutting it off and taking out another 32oz. I let it set for another 10 minutes and ran it 15 seconds and have been repeating the process. I'm mostly through my 3rd gallon of oil and its still a little milky. Yes I also changed the oil filter after the 2nd gallon of oil.

I was hoping that after 3 gallons of oil it would be crystal clear so I could fill it with GOOD oil and a new filter but I think I may have to do a 4th?

Anyone ever have to do this before? The little oil hand pump is a slow process also, doesnt spit out all that much with each pump.

This is a new ski to me. I bought it off of a co worker who was going to sell it rather than fix it after the head cracked. Not sure why it cracked, it was kept inside the garage during the winter. dealer was trying to talk him into a new engine. I tried to talk him into a new head or fix his but he didnt want to put any time into it.

I picked it up for $1000. I got the head repaired for under $300 and bought a top end gasket kit. It was fun putting it back together since I did not take it apart so it took me the better part of a full day. I must have done something right because it started right up no problem.

BTW, it only has 58 hrs on it and NO it's not the trip meter I'm positive.

Did you buy a Honda OEM head gasket or try an aftermarket,,,I have had no luck with aftermarkets. Have you ran it on a hose? if so did you crank it before you turned on the hose and shut off the hose before you shut down the engine?

All the gaskets and seals are OEM/Honda. I ordered them online for about 1/3 less in Ca Honda Dealer than it was here in Seattle.

I have not ran it on a hose yet. I dont want to run it more than 15 sec at a time until the oil is clear. There is no foam anymore but still a little milky. I have almost finished the 4th gallon of oil. Ill pick up 2 more gallons tomorrow just to be on the safe side.

From what i have seen online you turn on the hose before starting the engine and shut off the engine before turning the water off, Correct? I know it does not take long for these little engines to get warm/hot but so far the exhaust is not even warm to the touch.

I have 2 SeaDoo's so I'm not new to PWC. My first one was a 1976 Kawasaki 440 then much later I got the 650 standup and now the 3 fat boy sit down skis so I can take family out to play.

All the gaskets and seals are OEM/Honda. I ordered them online for about 1/3 less in Ca Honda Dealer than it was here in Seattle.

I have not ran it on a hose yet. I dont want to run it more than 15 sec at a time until the oil is clear. There is no foam anymore but still a little milky. I have almost finished the 4th gallon of oil. Ill pick up 2 more gallons tomorrow just to be on the safe side.

From what i have seen online you turn on the hose before starting the engine and shut off the engine before turning the water off, Correct? I know it does not take long for these little engines to get warm/hot but so far the exhaust is not even warm to the touch.

I have 2 SeaDoo's so I'm not new to PWC. My first one was a 1976 Kawasaki 440 then much later I got the 650 standup and now the 3 fat boy sit down skis so I can take family out to play.

NOT correct - if you turn on the water before you start the engine you run the risk of hydrolocking the engine, you should start the engine and then turn on hose immediately, to stop you should turn off the hose then stop the engine

Interesting but why would you hydrolock it? How would water get into the cylinders? Even if you did hydrolock it unless somehow something broke you just remove the plug to free it up but still I would rather not have that happen.

Ahhh I got it, since the water also flows though the exhaust it could potentially back flow into the cylinders causing the hdyrolock. Gotch ya.... Good advice.

Interesting but why would you hydrolock it? How would water get into the cylinders? Even if you did hydrolock it unless somehow something broke you just remove the plug to free it up but still I would rather not have that happen.

Ahhh I got it, since the water also flows though the exhaust it could potentially back flow into the cylinders causing the hdyrolock. Gotch ya.... Good advice.

There are a lot of Ex-Honda owners who turned on the hose first....If you are down to the point of just slightly milky oil then you are probably safe to run it for a couple of hours to evaporate the water from the oil. I had to do this after one of my manifolds leaked. In our hot Florida weather the oil was clear in a very short time due to the bubbler system in the oil.
Enjoy your toy and keep treating the corrosion prone areas inside the engine bay for a long life. Also, it would be a good thing to invest in a new main relay before yours fails...

The original part had water infiltrate through the insulation on the wires going into it and the resulting corrosion killed it. The new one is a different part number and does not seem to fail. When they fail the battery dies or it just will not crank.