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I just recently purchased a T- visor from T-visor.com, and I'm having a lot of trouble getting it to fit in my bucket. My helmet is a Fang, and the visor that I have is supposed to fit a Fang. But when I put the visor in, there are a lot of gaps between the visor and the mandibles. does anyone have a solution to fix this problem?

I hope the pictures help explain a little better. Its kinda hard to explain without showing someone the helmet in person. I circled the gaps in red.

hard to see exactly but you may need to cut the visor so it sits closer to the lip. I dont know what the size of T-visors are.. I just used a welding sheild, and i had to shave the visor close to the helmet.

How are you holding the visor in there????? On the real helmets, there are also some gaps visible, so don't be too concerned if you don't get a completely flush seal all the way around. Post pics of teh inside of teh helmet....you may have to trim that visor some to make it fit, but its hard to say without more pics.
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Maybe I am misunderstanding what you are saying but it looks like you may need to sand down the mandible a little bit so that you can get a more flush look. It looks like the mandibles are a little thicker near the top than on the bottom. I don't know if this is the case but I know I had to sand mine down a little bit. Once again I may be misunderstanding what you are talking about though.

How are you holding the visor in there????? On the real helmets, there are also some gaps visible, so don't be too concerned if you don't get a completely flush seal all the way around. Post pics of teh inside of teh helmet....you may have to trim that visor some to make it fit, but its hard to say without more pics.
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I haven't permanently attached the visor in yet, I wanted to fix the gap problem before I glued it in yet. I am either going to use 5 minute epoxy or JB weld.

Maybe I am misunderstanding what you are saying but it looks like you may need to sand down the mandible a little bit so that you can get a more flush look. It looks like the mandibles are a little thicker near the top than on the bottom. I don't know if this is the case but I know I had to sand mine down a little bit. Once again I may be misunderstanding what you are talking about though.

Actually, that is exactly what Ive been trying to do, to make the bottom thicker I'm going to add a bit of bondo along the mandibles. But, yeah your right, I'm just having a little trouble explaining it. Thanks.

Well, in my experience, you won't be able to pull the visor flush until you do actually attach it. That kind of "pulls" everything together if you follow me. I've always used the bolt in method so I can remove the visor if I need to. Onec you have your bolts in, and start to crank them down, it usually pulls in the gaps. Might be harder with epoxy though.
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Well, in my experience, you won't be able to pull the visor flush until you do actually attach it. That kind of "pulls" everything together if you follow me. I've always used the bolt in method so I can remove the visor if I need to. Onec you have your bolts in, and start to crank them down, it usually pulls in the gaps. Might be harder with epoxy though.
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I was thinking about trying that at first, do you know what type and size bolt I should use.

i have had the same problem as well...i got my bolts epoxied into the locations i wanted, and had to do some sanding as well...if you look at the right mandible in this pic, you will see that the lower part of the visor isnt flush with the mandible, its the same on the left side too...i am pretty sure that the mandys are straight, and the visor of course is straight, but i still have that gap...

when i tighten down the bolts, it gives too much of a curve to the madible, so i just left it as is, you can only see that at certain angles...i would like for the visor to sit flush with the mandible, but i dont want to do too much reconstruction on it since i have finished the paint there...DOH!! maybe i need two more bolts in between those two...

i always sand out the insides of the visor area to make them nice and smooth. there's usually a slight gap, which is normal, but it fits pretty closely. i use a dremel for the rough sanding, then sandpaper wrapped around a 1/2" square wood dowel to finish it up.

i also make sure to paint the inside of the visor area the same as the outside, so that if you look at an angle, it's all finished and nice looking.

Heres a somewhat crude diagram but it illustrates my point, this is what I did with my old mystery helmet before I went the T-Nut method (see sticky thread Visor Installation) I epoxied 6 bolts inside the helmet with the head of the bolt down against the inside of the helmet, then I made 6 thin 'clamps' out of thin strips of aluminium, then I drilled holes in these clamps to accept the thread of the bolt, heat up the visor gently using a heat gun and when your ready place it inside the helmet and place the clamps on the bolts, you can then tighten them up with a nut over the top, this holds everything in place nicely and it makes it easy to remove the visor if you every need to, make sure when you epoxy the bolts in place that there is enough room for your visor to sit!

I've worked on several Sgt Fang helmets and you really should take a little extra time and sand down the inside of the bucket wherever your visor will make contact.
The smoother you can get the inside areas, the better. I use a cone-shaped Dremel bit and try to get the inside surfaces as even as I can.
If there are any lumps or bumps in there, they'll keep the visor pushed away from the surface and you have those gaps.