Overview

Mont Pelvoux is one of the most important and complicated mountain in Ecrins massif, the most southwesterly high massif in the Alps.

In the past, people thought Mont Pelvoux was the highest summit of the region because from a distance in Durance valley, it's impossible to see Barre des Ecrins wich is highest and behind Mont Pelvoux.

Mont Pelvoux is the first high mountain of the massif to be climbed in 1928 by Captain Durand and two chamois hunters. 2 days after the first ascent they came back on the summit to build a geodesic signal and do measurements during 3 days.

Mont Pelvoux has very high rock slopes with a snow comb in the middle (Pelvoux glacier). Four summits are around the glacier comb: Pointe Puiseux (3946m), Pointe Durand (3932m), 3 Dents (3682m) and Petit Pelvoux (3753m).

Mont Pelvoux is west connected to a very high ridge including Pic Sans Nom [Peak without name! ] (3914m) and Ailefroides (3953m).

Mont Pelvoux has Glacier on it: Pelvoux glacier ont he top, glacier Du Clos De L'Homme on south side, Glacier des Violettes and Glacier de la Momie on east side and is borded on the north by Glacier Noir (Black glacier) about 5km long.

They are many routes on Mont Pelvoux different by their types and difficulties, snow, ice corridors, rock, traverse, a 1000m north route with D+ cotation.

Lots of people is doing Pelvoux traverse on summer (PD)

This page is dedicated to George Vernet. He has opened with Jean Vernet the first route on the east side of the mountain.

Routes overview

Route name: normal route (Pelvoux traverse using Coolidge corridor to climb and Glacier des violettes to go down)
Difficulty: PD and serac's fall (Glacier de l'Homme and Glacier des Violettes) if the glaciers are not in very good conditions
Time required: from hut to point 3225m: 1.30h + 1.30h-2h to summit = 3h-4.30h from hut to summit, + 3h- 4h to return to Ailefroide on Pelvoux east side.
Start point: Pelvoux hut (2704m)
Top point: Pelvoux Pointe Puiseux (3946m) or Pointe Durand (3932m) or both.
Difference in height: hut to to summit = 1242m. from summit to Ailfroide is nearly -2500m
First ascent: Captain A. Durand , Jacques Etienne Matéoud and Alexis Liotard july 30 1828 but not using the same route they used "Rochers rouges" routes.
W.A.B Coolidge, Christian Almer, Aldrich Almer, July 15 1881were the first to climb Normal Route ( Coolidge corridor)
and Charles Passavant, A.Burgener, and P.A. Reymond have done the first ascent on Glacier des violettes june 25 1881.

When To Climb

june to september

Camping and facilities

Camping:
There is an extensive campsite on the way into Ailefroide village.

Facilities:
Ailefroide has four hotels, two small shops (selling a very good variety of food, a number of gear shops, bars, restaurants and a Bureau des Guides.
Vallouise has in addition bank, doctor, pharmacy.

old pictures

Getting there

External Links

Ecrins-Pelvoux-Meije Massif geology Nice geology site and nice pictures with comments, even if the translation is not perfect (I love Big Red-haired persons as translation for Grandes Rousses Massif !)