BreitlingBreitling Superocean

Paul O'Neil

Breitling’s Superocean collection, one of the brand’s bestsellers, despite its undeniable reputation for pilot’s watches, has received some incremental updates over the past couple of years with models like the 2017 Superocean Heritage II, to celebrate the 60th birthday of Breitling’s diver’s watch, which was followed the next year by chronograph models using the brand’s in-house chronograph movement.

While these models had a clearly vintage design, Breitling has chosen to completely refresh the standard Superocean collection this year. It’s cliché to say that there is something to suit every taste, but in this case there is something to suit every depth, too. Although the new designs are fully in keeping with today’s “desk divers” like myself, whose watches will never be subjected to a depth of more than 30 centimetres, the new Superoceans offer levels of water resistance that are well above those of its major competitors. The water resistance of the different models increases in line with their case diameter, from 200 metres for the 36mm ladies’ models up to an impressive 2,000 metres for the 46mm models. The exception is the huge 48mm model, which has a DLC black titanium case, a blue ceramic bezel and blue dial but is water resistant “only” to a depth of 300 metres. It also has a soft-iron inner case for resistance to magnetic fields, a robust lock for the unidirectional bezel and a Diver Pro III rubber strap that is vented so that it can counteract the effects of pressure at depth, so that the strap is never too tight on the wrist. Even though I will never benefit from such attention to detail, this is the model that gets my vote, in part because of this rugged strap but also the matte finish of the titanium case and some second-glance details like the hour markers (rather than the 12, 6, 9 numerals on the other models in the collection), the absence of the date and the robust grooves on the bezel with their rectangular profile.

But it’s not just my taste that counts, after all, and as I said, this new collection really has something for everyone. Stepping down the diameter a notch we have the 46mm models, which are still quite large, even for a diver’s watch. These models have a black DLC stainless-steel case and come with black or blue dials and matching Diver Pro II rubber straps and a black bezel insert. The luminous hour markers are interspersed with the oversize 12, 6 and 9 (also in luminescent materials) and the date is present. The most subtle, but most important, difference on the dial, however, is the indication of water resistance to an impressive 2,000 metres or 6,600 feet.

Given current trends for ever smaller case diameters, even the 44mm model in steel might be considered too large for some (but if that’s the case, just read on!). This version has a more classic touch with a brushed stainless-steel case and the option of a stainless-steel bracelet in addition to the Diver Pro II rubber strap. It is also available with a black or blue dial. Divide the water resistance of the 48mm model by the difference in case diameter with this model (2mm) and you get the water resistance: a still-impressive 1,000 metres.

Apart from another halving of the water resistance (once again, highly competitive at 500 metres), the 42mm models add a sportier touch to the collection with dials in black, white and orange with trendy colour contrasts. While the black dial model remains fairly classic, with a matching black bezel, the white dial version opts for a contrasting blue bezel insert, blue Diver Pro II rubber strap and blue accents on the hands and hour markers. The orange model lets the dial do the talking with a black bezel insert and black rubber strap.

The ladies’ models have a 36mm diameter case in stainless steel and maintain the all-round appeal of the collection by eschewing the expense of diamonds – something few brands can resist, even for their diver’s watches. The difference shows, offering the perfect combination of classic diver’s watch appeal matched with a summery white rubber strap for the white dial model or a powder blue dial with contrasting dark-blue bezel insert and blue rubber strap.

Breitling maintains COSC chronometer certification across the board in all the models in this new collection thanks to the calibre 17 movement, which offers a power reserve of 38 hours. They are the perfect timepieces for Breitling’s Surfers Squad but their competitive prices make them the perfect choice for anyone looking for a decidedly sporty watch for the summer.