Anne Malassagne from A.R. Lenoble invited Champagne Club for a lunch at Brasserie Bobonne in Stockholm to taste their Champagnes.

RJ ON A:R: LENOBLE Lenoble was established in 1920 by Armand-Raphaël Graser, but the domain was destroyed during the First World War. Leon de Tassigny from Jacquesson organised some buildings in Damery for his friend A-R Lenoble. At present the firm is run by Anne Malassagne, who controls eighteen hectares at Chouilly and Bisseuil. Winemaker is Antoine MalassagneFifty percent of their grapes are purchased. The proportion of oak barrels used is increasing every year. The 1999 Gentilhomme is brilliant as usual with profound nuttiness and lovely orange-dominated fruit aromas with flowery overtones. A fine personal spiciness lying in wait under the surface. The 96 is even better and the most recent vintages are super exiting in their oaky way.

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2010. 30% réserve wine. 3 years sûr-lie and 0 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly and the Pinot Noir from the 1cru Bisseuil & the Pinot Muenier from Dammery. Grapes from Damery, Bisseuil and Chouilly vinified using 10% oak barrel and without sugar. Fairly delicate and mellower than expected. The aromas stretch from apples to pineapple and roses.

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2010. 30% réserve wine. 3 years sûr-lie and 5 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly and the Pinot Noir from the 1cru Bisseuil & the Pinot Muenier from Dammery. Pinot Noir from Bisseuil, Meunier from Damery and Chardonnay from Chouilly vinified using 10% oak barrel with seven grammes of sugar and three years in contact with the yeast. Rich in flavour and interestingly spicy with a long, pure Granny Smith finish.

TASTING NOTE Pre-release. 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly. Again, I am a little bit disappointed with this fairly rich wine. Not nearly as village-typical despite all of the serious appearance. It lacks creaminess and minerality. The richness is there as a small consolation.

TASTING NOTE Pre-release. 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly. Ambitious, well-made wine with intensity and a origin form good parcels. However, I am not nearly as impressed as I am when it comes to the house’s equivalent Blanc de Noirs. The Wine is a bit too rustic and characterized by straw and malt tones.

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The PInot Noir comes from 1er cru Bisseuil. Wow! Cool! Here we go again. Not quite as large as the sensational 2006, but the same flavor spectrum and modern dense fruit.

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The PInot Noir comes from 1er cru Bisseuil. Wow! What a sensation. Solid oak-influenced bio-oriented grower style with features of Egly and Selosse. One of the biggest surprises in recently. Massive and impressive throughout.

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Grand cru Chouilly. Production only 3 – 4 000 bottle per year. Cool and extremely personal wine that radiates less polished than before, but with more sting and raw impressions. IN good years: a stylish Blanc de Blancs from Côte des Blancs.

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Grand cru Chouilly. Production only 2 000 bottle per year. The lieux-dits ’Les Aventures’ covers 0,5 hectares. A new cuvée de prestige of the best available that has been given a dose of 30% oak barrel. The grapes used to from the three fine years (like 1990, 1995 and 1996) This version is a blend of equal parts of the vintages ’02 & ’06. . I have heard such a lot of good things about this wine that I was slightly disappointed. I have the feeling that it is fantastically modern and oaky in tune with the times. And what will happen with storage? Worth trying at all events.