If you're looking for how to remove the choke/enrichment knob, there is a brass nut underneath the rubber boot (lower left of your photo above). Your carb is the stock CV carb for street-going versions of the DR350 BTW.

Thanks I figured out the choke. I swaped out the entire thing, plunger and all. I did so by unscrewing it from the body via the 14mm plastic nut.

I was under the impression that this was the BST31 carb found on the DR250 rather than the BST33 for the dr350. However micing the output orifice of the carb I get 1.296". That is pretty dang close to the 1.299 which would be 33mm. So you might be right.

By sounds of it, i do more offroad than you do...and i dont run em at all! THEY SUCK when it comes to balancing! Just break them down, tear em out, and be on your happy, unvibrating way! lol Trust me! hahaha

I used to rip valve stems out left and right with no rimlock when dirt riding. It depends on air pressure and how/where you ride. You could also install a second rim lock opposite of the first to help with balancing.

The only indenticating number I can find on the carb is on the butterfly. Somedouble square symbol and a "115". Maybe there is something else under the grime but I don't think so.

The number is under the grime on the side of the carb body where the slide goes up and down....it will give you an idea of which bike the carb was originally in (if you do lots of research in the shop manual).

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

Still not exactly sure what this screw does. It seems like it is a drain.

As others have said its a drain screw (in about as good condition as the one I just replaced....the head gets messed up pretty easily.

I used to rip valve stems out left and right with no rimlock when dirt riding. It depends on air pressure and how/where you ride. You could also install a second rim lock opposite of the first to help with balancing.

When I picked up my '97 DR350SE last year, the PO had removed both rim locks and fitted some self-tapping screws through the rims and into the tyre walls; apparently it was an old trials-riding mod that has been around for years.

Looks a bit weird, but hey presto, no balancing issues and no slippage, even with really low pressures.

When I picked up my '97 DR350SE last year, the PO had removed both rim locks and fitted some self-tapping screws through the rims and into the tyre walls; apparently it was an old trials-riding mod that has been around for years.

Looks a bit weird, but hey presto, no balancing issues and no slippage, even with really low pressures.

It works for me - YMMV.

I'm curious about doing that. Are the screws just short enough that they don't go through the tire? Gotta get that right or puncture the tube, I would think. Do they hit just out board of the bead? Or go right at it? Thanks.

I'm curious about doing that. Are the screws just short enough that they don't go through the tire? Gotta get that right or puncture the tube, I would think. Do they hit just out board of the bead? Or go right at it? Thanks.

I have yet to take my tyres off, but I guess the screws are just long enough to get a grip into the sidewall, yet not right through, for obvious reasons.

The tyre should be thick enough at this point to be able to estimate this, and the inner tube shouldn't be this low inside the tyre to be near the screw anyway.

The photo that Stretch67 posted above shows how it's done very well.....and if it works on dragsters, we should be OK!

Having no experience with running screws into a tire bead, you can take this with a grain of salt, but I wouldn't drill into the bead of the tire. Drilling may break one of the strands of wire in the bead, which couldn't be a good thing. Just drill the rim, and then slowly run the screw into the bead, allowing the screw to gently work its way between the strands of wire in there without breaking any of them.

Having no experience with running screws into a tire bead, you can take this with a grain of salt, but I wouldn't drill into the bead of the tire. Drilling may break one of the strands of wire in the bead, which couldn't be a good thing. Just drill the rim, and then slowly run the screw into the bead, allowing the screw to gently work its way between the strands of wire in there without breaking any of them.

Sounds like good advice, Stretch. I did a little more looking around and found this: http://www.buchananspokes.net/catego...eous_tools.asp Seems like a more prudent approach. When the spring rubber goes on, I think I might give them a try. I still need to figure out how many it takes to have any real effect. Anybody got any experience with these?

Sounds like good advice, Stretch. I did a little more looking around and found this: http://www.buchananspokes.net/catego...eous_tools.asp Seems like a more prudent approach. When the spring rubber goes on, I think I might give them a try. I still need to figure out how many it takes to have any real effect. Anybody got any experience with these?

The screws will function like a rim lock UNTIL you have a flat. If you try to ride on the flat there is some possibility they will release the bead (rim locks won't) and make a mess of the tire bead. Then there is the issue of field repair... gonna take a while to back out all those screws on the side of the trail. I hate rim locks but they do work. I expect that if I had to repair a flat in the woods I would hate bead screws even more.

Personally, I don't find the rim locks to be difficult to deal with, once you get used to them. At first I thought they were a pain, but having changed tires numerous times now, they don't bother me at all, and I don't seem to have to use a lot of weight to get the tires balanced. YMMV

My bead locks caused a flat on the dr350 by rubbing a hole in the tube. So out they went.
I personally don't see why they exist...
I rode 25 miles through rough terrain on a flat on my Terra 650 a few weeks ago and it has no bead locks.
I didn't have my tool kit because i bought the bike the day before. But nothing bad happened, just had to go slow.