I climbed this once years ago, and remember it as awkward and hard-hard-hard for 5.5. I climbed it again yesterday, and - wow, what a hysterically fun, overlooked 5.5!

The top overhang isn't straightforward, but with a little chimneying technique, it's killer fun.

For a less-confident second, be careful to place what will basically be a top anchor *above* the chimney, so that they won't worry about a swing backwards into space - the rap tree isn't ideal as a top anchor.

Good climb. The second roof is a bit tricky. Watch out for flakes when placing gear on the second roof. I found myself using a hand jam to get passed the second roof. This route is also tricky to clean if your second doesn't climb it. Oh yes I almost forgot a massive spider lives under the first roof. I almost had a heart attack.

Agree with the comments above. Since this route is not real popular, I wasn't expecting much ... then it turned out to be a satisfying lead with interesting moves before the crux, and felt well-protected.

If you bring along followers who are not strong at 5.5 and not so gung-ho to try a tricky challenge, they might end up unhappy. If you fail to give them good directional protection in the top crux, and they swing out into space if they fail, they might be very unhappy that they followed your choices.

This is one of the best 5.5's in the Gunks, better than Jackie, and it rivals Horseman. I wouldn't say it's a beginner 5.5 -- the gear at the second roof is hard to place because the rock isn't great quality and you're in an awkward stance.

Great Route! Easy climbing but a fun crux move (the roof), and well protected with a solid Gunks rack. I protected the roof with a large nut on a double-length runner, the rock was too irregular for a good cam placement.

I didn't like the fixed tree anchor very much (though I've seen worse), and it would have been either a hanging or very awkward belay, so I climbed about 25' higher to a bigger tree and beautiful ledge with a comfortable seat. Rope drag was high but not terrible, with careful use of long runners. Easy walk-off from that point.