Genuine wagyu beef touches down in Ottawa

I am not what you’d call a big supporter of imported beef — or pork, or poultry, or seafood for that matter — if only because we have so much wholesome, quality product raised right here in Canada.

Today I make an exception. I’m breaking my own rule because the beef I want you to experience is superior to anything raised on this continent. Really.

I’m talking about wagyu beef. From Japan.

I first tasted this incredibly marbled, succulent delicacy in 2008 when I joined 300 guests at a garden party at the residence of Japanese ambassador Tsuneo Nishida while he was posted in Ottawa. There he served, among myriad Japanese culinary treats, genuine wagyu beef kebabs grilled to perfection to celebrate 80 years of Japan-Canada diplomatic relations. It was by any measure a memorable moment, one I never expected to enjoy again.

Most people know wagyu as Kobe beef, which refers to a specific breed raised according to strict tradition in Hyogo Prefecture in Japan. There, purebred critters (as the story goes) are ridiculously pampered, fed beer and spent grain from a brewery, brushed and lovingly massaged to fatten them. The result is beef with abundant fat distributed in flecks perfectly throughout, like a street map of Paris. It costs a stupid amount of money, and truth is that genuine Kobe beef rarely (if ever) leaves the country.

But there are regions outside the Kobe area that raise wagyu cattle in a similar manner, and that product is exported in limited quantity. It is rare, it is frighteningly expensive, but as a treat I think it’s well worth the cost — something every beef lover should enjoy at least once in his or her life.

Other ranchers in Australia, the United States and Canada may claim to raise wagyu-style beef, but it is really a cross-breed (usually with Angus) that, while excellent, is not the same.

The good news is, I found genuine Japanese wagyu tenderloin on the menu at Big Easy’s Seafood & Steak House at 228 Preston St., in the heart of Little Italy. It sells for $70 a four-ounce portion with veggies on the side, or $90 for six ounces. Deprive yourself of a few designer coffees for a fortnight, save the cash, and taste for yourself.

The 110-seat Big Easy’s with its Louisiana cuisine was founded in 2008 by former National Football League star Val Belcher, a native Texan who made his home in Ottawa. Sadly, this most kind and affable gentleman died in September 2010 from congestive heart failure. Today the restaurant continues under the ownership of one of Belcher’s original partners, Ross Tyrell, who has taken in a minority partner in chef Louis Charest, executive chef at Rideau Hall.

Under Charest’s watch, the Big Easy’s menu has been massaged and tweaked (after a scouting mission to the Deep South) to better reflect the Louisiana cuisine so beloved by the restaurant’s founder.

“The recipes I’ve created here reflect my take on New Orleans food while respecting local artisans in Ottawa to incorporate what’s available here,” Charest says.

And, to distinguish Big Easy’s even more, Charest sourced and brought in Japanese wagyu beef aged from 60 to 80 days to offer a superlative beefy experience rarely enjoyed by the dining public.

The wagyu at Big Easy’s comes from two districts in Japan, Miyazaki and Kagoshima. If you can believe it, a 10-pound tenderloin costs roughly $1,000 — and the price only goes up after Charest lovingly trims each piece to remove excess fat and sinew. (Don’t worry, it doesn’t go to waste as the wagyu fat is incorporated in his sliders served at the restaurant. Oh my.)

“The wagyu tenderloin,” Tyrell says, is “surprisingly popular. We’re selling a whole fillet in less than two months. If you’re going to pay $70 for a four-ounce fillet I wanted to make sure people are getting the real deal — and let me tell you, it is outstanding.”

Wagyu customers at the restaurant tend to be young men under 40. “The first time I ordered a tenderloin I was afraid to touch it, it’s so expensive,” Charest says.

“So I took it to John Diener at Saslove’s Meat Market in the ByWard Market and saw how they trimmed it, and then I was more comfortable.”

Even at $70 for a quarter-pound portion, genuine Japanese wagyu really is something for your bucket list of must-try treats. As with so many things in life, if you go for quality you won’t be disappointed.

This Week's Flyers

Comments

We encourage all readers to share their views on our articles and blog posts. We are committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion, so we ask you to avoid personal attacks, and please keep your comments relevant and respectful. If you encounter a comment that is abusive, click the "X" in the upper right corner of the comment box to report spam or abuse. We are using Facebook commenting. Visit our FAQ page for more information.