I have a question about attaching my beams to my 4x4 piers. I realize that I can usepost to beam connectors made out of steel like this one:

But I've seen a few builds where they simply seem to use plywood gusset plates or 2/4's on each sideof the beam and post connection and then nail or bolt them together like that. Is there anything wrong with that method?

I thought I would let you know how long it takes for me to do my piers:

With the amount of rocks in my soil and going to around the 3 feet deep mark, the averagepier hole takes me around 45 minutes to dig with a shovel. The last 5 minutes or so aredone with the post hole digger, just to get the loose stuff out - the shovel does all thework. If I'm hitting a lot of rock then increase that time to an hour.

Then comes measuring and cutting the Quikrete Form Tube, placing it in the hole along with the post itself,putting the post-level on the post itself and adding the temporary braces, and lastly - making sure the post is in the perfect position to the string line(s). That takes me about 30 minutes.

Then comes mixing the 4 bags of 80 lb Quikrete, putting it in the hole down the tube and tapping it down and then fillingoutside of the tube area with dirt - that takes me an hour.

So all in all, it takes me around 2 1/2 to 3 hours a pier hole and I'm going at it all with no breaks in-between. I'm usuallyon a tight schedule to get to work or go somewhere so a lot of times I'm racing when I'm doing a pier. I guess itwould be safe to say that 3 1/2 hours for each pier would be a nice time frame where you can take it easy and not race.

As you've possibly read in previous post, I've been using those 12" diameter Quikrete Quik Tubes andI've had to cut a few of them to my desired length leaving smaller length pieces. In this video I explain howone fits into the other to create an adjustable Form Tube:

Got pier #8 done yesterday, short video about that and it shows the string line and how far awayit is from each pier. The piers should line up very closely to one another on a pier row with little orno string gap. The distance from pier to pier can have more tolerance but the string gap shouldn'tbe off at all if possible.

One piece of logic that I think about is this: If you have piers lined up at a string line at the bottom of your posts,that doesn't mean that things are the same at the top, due to not being perfectly level and warping ofthe post. Putting the string at the top of the lowest post and then tying the string to the last post may endup showing you different string gaps among each post...just some thoughts.

Sounds good but if the end post that you are attaching the string line to is not square to the rest of your build then the rest of your build will be off. The best way is using batter boards in both directions. Proven build practice. That insures that the complete build is square. Coming off of your batter board with your strings makes sure that each post is in line with the others. Using a 4' level in conjunction with the string line will get the post plumb. If you use the batter board string line approach to set the two end post on each end FIRST and they are correct then using the string line from the four corner post will work. This step is critical. If it is just a little off you will be fighting that " just a little off" completely to the ridge cap.

One question I've had: Prior to setting your posts, did you consider digging footings, making a little rebar cage and then attaching Simpson brackets to the top allowing you to bolt your posts as opposed to placing your posts directly in the concrete?

Yes, I did use the batter board method and squared up my corner posts but I used steel stakes instead of boards. Youcan see it here:(Pic coming soon)(Pic coming soon)

And thanks also pmichelsen!

Yes I did know about the footings with rebar and brackets and have seen almost all builds done withoutthe posts in concrete. At the present, I don't consider my piers in concrete a terrible mistake. I think that six piers 4 foot apart and in theground with concrete will have no problems holding up the 14x24. Will the treated wood in the concrete rot away in time? I know of manyinstances where posts have lasted many years in concrete, I guess the main factor is moisture and if water gets to them. Will my un-rebarredconcrete crack and move about in the ground? I don't know.

Yes, I believe the common method of what you described is 'the right way' and 'the better way'.

Yes, I did use the batter board method and squared up my corner posts but I used steel stakes instead of boards. Youcan see it here:.

Yes I saw the steel pipe/rebar you were using for your string line but went back to the beginning and didn't see the batter boards. Yes the post are in line with the string line but I was wondering about the second row of post being squared off the first row. Using the tested diagonal measurement is the only way for this to occur. If you are satisfied Carry On.

Yes I saw the steel pipe/rebar you were using for your string line but went back to the beginning and didn't see the batter boards. Yes the post are in line with the string line but I was wondering about the second row of post being squared off the first row. Using the tested diagonal measurement is the only way for this to occur. If you are satisfied Carry On.

Thanks again Redoverfarm,

Yes I did do that diagonal measurement method.

One thing I like about CountryPlans 'Little House Plans' that I'm working from is that my floor will be cantilevered out from the beams in its width. My finished floor will be 2'2" cantilevered out each end in the width and 2' each end in its length from the end posts. So if my beams are not exactly parallel then it's not a big deal. But it will be necessary for the beams to be in line with each other on their perpendicular axis.

Sure, there is not a pivot point between pier and post, which is what the Simpson literature is warning about. That is not an endorsement for this, what you are doing should not be copied, simply clearing up confusion about that detail.

Sure, there is not a pivot point between pier and post, which is what the Simpson literature is warning about. That is not an endorsement for this, what you are doing should not be copied, simply clearing up confusion about that detail.

Thank you for clearing that up for me Don, I appreciate your input and expertise.

I was looking at a CountryPlan Thread called, "Tidy 10x16 with Loft" and it was builtwith 12' high walls even though it is small. I really fell in love with it and would like tohave 12' walls in our 14x24 Little House. Here is the link to it:

Went to Lowes to pick up more concrete, another tube, and a 4x6 post. I noticed that thoseQuikrete Form Tubes are different sizes and fit into one another - it seems weird. They allhave the same price and number but their diameters are different. Here is a pic of 3 ofthem fitting into one another:(Pic coming soon)

Here's a pic of what I picked up for the next pier (pier #10):(Pic coming soon)

Here's the price of the 2x6x12 footers that I plan to use for the walls:(Pic coming soon)