Description

This is the main bouldering area. This part sees the most rednecks and "rappellers". It also hosts the easiest access and a ton of problems. Everyone is always pretty cordial, but if it's busy be prepared for yokel climbing questions such as the classic "How do you get down?". Many times it is absolutely empty, too. Real fair weather Saturdays and Sundays see the biggest crowds, but it's hit or miss. There are often boulderers who stop in after work to run a circuit.

Here is the Oklahoma Boulderfest Guide from 2005. It was made freely available, so here is a link to my repost of it. It has most of the classic routes, but only the main upper area.

In general, it is a great place to hang out, boulder on every level, and even set some top ropes up. Stump Wall and Troop wall are a very popular TR areas for first time climbers. Most every formation can be scrambled up on the backside. Topropes generally only require some webbing to sling something (tree, shrub, etc.) and the usual setup. Bring some extra long webbing so that your anchor hangs over the side.

There are a couple bolted lead climbs down the hill. They are very difficult and not for beginners. I recall them as at least 5.11 x (groundfall, but you'd live).

Following the cliff west down through the corridor and beyond leads to more areas and some higher climbs. There are some good TRs down there and long long traverses.

Getting There

To get to the main area: Upper Chandler Park.

Located near Berryhill Oklahoma just outside of Tulsa. Coming from Tulsa, take 21st ST West across the Arkansas river and stay on it (makes a weird left). Eventually (couple miles)it will turn into Avery drive and at this point their is a big hill on the South (left) that has CHANDLER PARK written in big white rocks. Drive up this hill. Continue on the main road and park in the lot on the right with the sign explaining that boulder hopping can be dangerous. Walk down the stone stairs or scramble down the gully. If you hit Sand Spings on Avery Dr you went to far.

If you still can't find it, look for Chandler Park on the map. It's near Berryhill and Sandsprings right next to the Arkansas River (about 200 yds from the river bank). The GPS dot on linked through this page is exactly to the upper Chandler parking lot. Park there and you can't miss it.