RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

I was told that the first ascensionist wanted to rate this climb 5.11a. I am not sure if a final rating has been decided, but I consider it to be a mid-range 5.10.

There is a tricky sequence at the bottom of this route (smearing feet), followed by easier climbing. This second "crux" involves moving through some huge huecos near the top. If you proceed left through the huecos the climbing is easier, but more reachy; proceed to the right, and you have a few harder moves but they are very straight forward.

Location

This line was bolted after Roxanna's new guide was published, so it is not included in her topo. It is the fifth route on the right as you enter the corridor from the lower approach, and starts in a right-facing scooped corner.

I'm under the impression that this route's called The Heavy Hitter, I don't know, I could be wrong but........ Bottom line is that it is a really good route and general consensus on the grade seems to be 5.10c. Enjoy.

I've climbed this route twice now and upon further reflection a couple of thoughts.

First, a stick clip isnt a bad idea for the first bolt- the starts pretty funky and doesnt have a great stance to clip the first bolt. The second is strenuous, but the holds are bigger.

Second, this route is really sustained- far more sustained than most other .10s ive done in Red Rock- even more so than the two sandbagged ones @ the Dog Wall- its probably an .11a compared to the other .10s in the area.

Third, not sure where the supposed crux is- didnt find a mantle anywhere on route, the thing just kept coming at me until the chains- although there was one move that felt pretty damn hard, but it could have been the pump.

Finally, I'd vote to move the anchor higher up than it currently is- clipping it is kind of a PITA and it'd be better to clip a bolt there, then climb up to the shelf and clip the anchor.

All in all, a great route and well worth doing if you're climbing hard .10s and in the corridor.

This is a great route. Fun, awesome holds, sustained! Be ready for the start as it comes at you. The moves to clip the anchor are a bit interesting (I moved past to the jug above which could be a not so nice fall...).

A lot of different movements on this one. A smeary, bouldery start leads to big moves on juggy huecos. After the first big rest, you can go left to a cool flake, or you can take a much easier path to the right. Some sustained climbing leads to another great rest. Keep it together and clip the anchors using small crimps. Kind of awkward if you are pumped.