Surfing in Puducherry

The wind had grown stronger and it smelled of rain. Our group of five stood around the surf shack, ignoring signs that warned of choppy waters. We got on with the business of wearing rash guards and proceeded to the beach, clutching our 9-foot-long foam boards. Except for a couple of talented instructors, we were all amateurs. We paddled into the deep, boards by our sides, altogether unprepared for the battle ahead. As the waves kept getting bigger, every now and then, I would bail and get off the board, jumping under a wave that threatened to throw me off. Finally, I reached where the pros were stationed, the lineup where it was safe to sit up and soak in the iron-coloured horizon. In that lull, I thought about my first time surfing.

It had been a few years ago, in Sri Lanka. Once back from there, I scoured the Internet for similar beaches and surf schools in India. And then last year, while aimlessly trawling Facebook, I hit gold! A page for a newly-opened surf school in Puducherry that promised a perfect beach break. I packed my swimsuits, board shorts and sunscreen, and bought a ticket.

I took the dirt track that veered off the main road between Puducherry and Auroville, past the shacks and temple tree, the chickens and the curious dogs, and found the surf shack with its two owners, Juan and Samai Reboul. They were Aurovillians of Basque descent, and widely regarded for their surfing and instructing abilities. The Reboul brothers run the Kallialay Surf School out of Bodhi beach, giving lessons to out-of-towners, as well as local residents.

The day had been clear and the swell gentle. After a 15-minute session of ocean awareness and practicing ‘pop-ups’ on the beach, I headed to the breakers with my massive foam board and tried to put to practice all the theory and lessons Samai had been throwing at me. And it worked! With arms flailing, I managed to stand on the board, and ride a mini wave to shore. I was hooked.

While India has water on both sides, and boasts of a coastline that stretches over 7,000 km, there has hardly ever been any infrastructure for surfing. With schools like the one in Puducherry, and events like the upcoming Orissa surf festival, the sport is attracting a new wave of enthusiasts.

“When we started here in 1995, there was a community of maybe 10 surfers … Now, on a good day with good swells and conditions, we have almost 40 people in the water,” said Juan Reboul.

The first informal competition and gathering of amateur surfers in India was organized by Temple Adventures last year at Mahabalipuram, a small beach town in Tamil Nadu. The event drew 70 participants across age groups.

Surfers have a lot more to look forward to with the Orissa fest in February, a repeat of the competition at Mahabalipuram, and perhaps another competition in Puducherry, later this year.

“We’re planning it right here on our beach,” said Juan. “We will invite all the Indian surfers, but it will be open to all. A few Australians or others might add some flavor to the competition.”