Vegetarian Delights of NYC: DuMont Burger’s Fried Pickles

May 13, 2010

Fried pickles are like most foods that are breaded, dipped in boiling oil, and covered in salt — passable, because they’re pretty hard to ruin, but rarely distinct, let alone good.

At DuMont Burger, however, the fried pickles are delicious. The Williamsburg eatery serves up a platter that’s big enough to split (though you probably won’t want to), and that’s surprisingly tasty.

DuMont’s homemade bread-and-butters are the base. They’re sweet and juicy enough to balance out the crunchy, salty outer layer. At the same time, though, the cukes aren’t too sugary and the exterior isn’t not too savory. The batter winds up being light and thin, not at all soggy or gooey. And there aren’t any of those floury chunks or burnt slivers that you often get with similar snacks. They’re prepped correctly and cooked the right amount of time.

The result: DuMont’s dish generally avoids the trap of mystery tempuras and county-fair “specialties.” The main components hold their own individually and don’t taste like other fried fruits and veggies.

The dip — a smoky, mesquite, chipotle mayo of sorts — plays into this too. The side sauce spices things up a bit and jives well with the overall effect, but it’s not make-or-break. There’s no reason to slather on ketchup or Dijon mustard, which are also brought out. The plate does well without the mask of heavy, quotidian condiments.

One hitch: DuMont’s specialty is quite greasy (a respectably sized pool of piping oil collects on the plate). Still, it’s a solid meal for hungry vegs stumbling out of a Bedford Avenue bar late at night or snack for their meat-eating friends. And for five bucks, the fried pickles won’t damage your wallet — just your cardiovascular system.