Ben's new Master

I am just starting to plan for plumbing a new addition master bathroom.

First some background in the for of a few long stories made short:

1. About a year ago we had a design/build firm put in a new addition with a master suite (including new basement space). Due to setback restrictions the bathroom space was not luxurious (by todayâ€™s standards) and is roughed in as 12'7" x 6'1". Due to budget compromises we got pretty much everything we wanted except the bathroom space became an unfinished closet. So now that I have caught my breath, its time to try again.

2. It not a big job and due to the need to save a few $$, I have attempted to contract a plumber to do the rough in only. Perhaps it was the season, but out of 5 plumbers that promised, none showed up.

3. I am pretty handy. My father was in the Army Core of Engineers and among his various certifications passed several plumbing grades. Many a summer around my 12th year I spent as apprentice/gopher on his various "outside" projects. I've continued the tradition on my own projects and know just enough to be dangerous.

So since it looks like I might need to do this all myself. I am fully capable of doing all the mechanical task of putting together PVC and copper and any carpentry involved. What I know enough to know I don't know is engineering the DWV plan and the structural engineering required to muck with the joists.

Here are some illustrations before I begin asking specific questions:

<boring default layout>

Here is a brain-dead (mostly) to scale design diagram of a functional bathroom space. I would like to do something more interesting and/or luxurious, but for now lets use this as a reference point.

<underside>

Here is the new addition's basement area directly under the bathroom space. The joists are 2"x10" 16" on center. The heating vent is 1 bay over from the door, and is supplied from the crawl space of the existing structure.

<stack 1, 2>

Here are some pictures of the existing waste stack. It is cast iron running horizontally under the foundation not more than a couple feet away from access of the previous picture (not counting 2 thick concrete walls, joists, and stuff).

<joists>

Here is the first problem in search of a solution. I would like to avoid going through the concrete (want to finish the basement and then there are those 2 intimidating, thick, well-cured walls). Iâ€™m pretty sure that leaves putting a 3.5" O.D of schedule 40 through a 2"x8" joist.

(yes this is the part of the program where Bob Vila steps out and says: "never do this! but, if you have no other choice, this is how you would do it..")

1. On the pocket door. I agree and was thinking the same thing when I re-took measurements, but its kind of a done deal unless I want to rip it out. If I were to do that, I think I would just jettison the pocket door (they are more trouble than worth). For now, Iâ€™ll resist that option a bit more than the others.

Kirdy might give me more options over the pocket door. Other than that, itâ€™s likely a compromise of which is the least invasive feature: the pocket door, or the egress/ventilation window.

2. This layout is not optimal. Once I have a good DWV plan and know what is possible, I would like to spend a good amount of thought in doing a cool, highly functional layout.

3. Re: going through the concrete. The more I think about it the more sense it makes. Who would I look up in the phone book. And out of curiosity, what tool do they use?

I used a pocket door at the head of my tub/shower, but built it out with a normal 2x4 stud wall (so that wall was double thick). This allowed me room for the plumbing and a strong wall for the tile. Finding a wall cavity clear of outlets, wiring, ducts, or plumbing is often hard, so you are limited on where you can put a pocket door. Note, there are kits that put the door entirely on the outside, if that would work (sort of like a barn door arrangement) that wouldn't take up any interior wall space.

3" Schedule 40 going through a >= 3.5 'cored' hole into the crawl space. New support for the cast iron will be provided near the snap points with some cinder blocks, a little digging, and a bit of mortar. A pair of poly/metal couplings marry the Schedule 40 to the cast iron + a standard waste Y with a cleanout .. use 45s whenever trying to make adjustments for pitch.

Forgive the illustration I haven't installed the right drawing tools for doing a good job of this so the pitch and scale are way out of whack. It should serve well enough as an illustration thought.