I have this auger that is like new. It has had little use and has been sitting for a long time. I know the gas should of been drained and it run dry but it did not get done. The tank was gummy as was the carb. I took the carb apart and cleaned with carb cleaner, blew out all the holes and jets and it was clean. I also washed the tank and gas line with carb cleaner until it was clean inside. Put it back together and I can get it to fire with starting fluid but it will not run. Almost seems like it is not getting gas. There is gas in the line? When I disconnect the line from the carb gas comes out but really slow. Could the fuel filter in the bottom of the tank be clogged a bit and enough gas is not going into the carb or? Does anyone have any suggestions? I am not sure how the fuel filter is attached to the gas line. It is in the bottom of the tank and gas line attached to filter. It spins in bottom of tank. Tried to remove the gas line but did not want to pull too hard and it would not come off. With the filter and gas line in bottom of tank what stops it from leaking gas? Appreciate the help

Thanks for the reply, the needle valve and there is only one, originally was 1 1/4 turns out. I tried 1 1/2 did not help. What should it be at? There is not a primer bulb, only a choke that covers the carb with a plate. That looks like the filter. If I take it apart again I will try to cut the hose and pull the filter thru the tank and replace the hose and maybe the filter?

If the engine won't start and run at 1.5 turns out then there is still clogging. The single needle is likely the Lo mixture, and affects running only near idle. Fixed main jet.

Replace the line and filter. When gasoline gas gummed, the line is likely deteriorated too.

Personally, I'd tear down the carb and give it a careful cleaning again. I'd pay close attention to the condition of the diaphragms, especially the metering one (the one with a metal disk on it, and no flappers). If it's not floppy-soft, it's gotta be replaced. A carb kit for your carburetor will come with all the gaskets and diaphragms, plus the inlet needle assembly. Replace'em all.

Make sure that spray cleaner can shoot thru each fuel passage in the carb. Don't use a soak type cleaner, it can damage some carb parts that aren't usually removed (main jet check).

I often use white vinegar for small carb work. Works well, less nasty than the purpose built cleaners. Tag wire and toothpicks are invaluable. Rince well with water nad blow out with WD or similar

A side note. Don't use starting sprays with small engines. There is not enough lube in them for 2 cycles and they are prone to detonation which can hole a piston quickly. Instead, add a small amount of fuel mix to the engine via the intake or the sparkplug hole. Even straight gas (a teaspoon or so!) is better for this than spray.

Well, I learned something today!! I replaced the filter and gas line, took carb apart again. Checked the carb and it was clean, shiny and diaphram was soft and pliable. Put back together again and it would fire but not run. Took it apart again, doubled checked it again and again put back together again and it was the same. Fire but would not run. Took apart one more time, checking things out again. The needle valve under the diaphram has that metal rod, spring and the metal plate that pushes the needle valve up and down with the diaphram. When I pushed on the metal piece, and the needle valve would not move, it was loose as I had taken it apart. But when you pushed on the end needle valve would not move up and down. I looked at the prongs that went to the needle valve and they looked bent?? Took apart and bent the prong just a little and put back together. It now would move up and down. Put carb back together and it fired without any gas poured down the carb. Took outside and it ran!! Adj the low idle and it ran great!! Took down to the pond and drilled several holes and it worked GREAT!! Finally. Do not know if others have experienced the same problem.

I have a Mantis tiller I have been playing with for years, will run for a bit but not well. My guess it has the same problem. This is my next project. I have been playing with small engines for years and never have had this much trouble. Hope this helps others.

I live in Minnesota and have been told by my Stihl dealer not to run ethanol gas in any small engine anymore. They have been burning up brand new kohler engines and stihl products because they changed the ethanol to 15%, it was 10% in MN and I have been told Wisc is the same. I run the ethanol free gas in my JD mower and all my small engines. I also run stable in everything as I put it in each 5 gal can. I have seen so many carbs just green inside from the ethanol gas in a matter of 6 months.Thanks for the Help!!

Dreamen... I'm just east of you in WI, and my company includes a fleet of rental boats as well as sleds. As you mentioned, the ethanol percentages are being increased to a max of 15%, and I don't know of ANY manufacturer that is OK with this. (10% is acceptable.) Compounding this, controlling the percentage is all over the map. So even if the pump says 10%, it's likely something else. (More likely lower actually...)

Also from STIHL:"All STIHL gasoline powered engines can be used with up to a 10% (E10) blend of ethanol in the gasoline/engine oil mix. We also recommend that if a unit will be left unused for more than 30 days that it be stored "dry." This means emptying the fuel tank and then restarting and letting the unit run until all the fuel is consumed and the engine stops. For maximum performance and engine life expectancy we also recommend using STIHL Ultra 2-cycle engine oil with built in stabilizer.