I didn't expected to score some wavs. I was sure there would be nothing at all. So I went to the beach without my surf with all my family. And when I was at the beach, some fun nearly one meter waves were breaking. Argh ! So my mother (thanks Mum) went back home to get my board.

Ok It was not Pipeline but I had some fun with my friends Manu Jean, Manu , Nico and all the child with us on bodyboard, longboards, mini mal....

The groins were working well this weekend at low tide and the wind was minimal. There were a few hours with only a few people on the groins getting back in time for every nice. clean set. Such a good time, but so many people everywhere.

This place is Gutless. Surfed it headhigh and it was the least powerful wave I'd ever surfed. Spent more time at Blew Dogs, than in the water, which is a shame. This is a wave for longboarders, so go enjoy if like a tropical San Onofre.

Okay day for the drive ... everyone in portland that knows how to surf or is trying to learn goes here. Probably great on a big day with the right swell direction during the week. Will not make the drive up on a weekend again.

realy fun smal perfect waves and glassy waves some head hi sets i loads off fun there was some crowd but everione freindly a surf scholl went in the water and messed up a litle bit i hope it stay like this tomorow (a litle bit bigger)

This happened last August where for a couple of days there was a pretty big storm lingering on the SW coast, one day the waves were totally maxing out and despite the lifeguards effort to keep surfers out there were a few that managed to pursaide them to let us out, despite the big conditions the few surfers that made it to the one working section were the longboarders, all the short boarders were just being nocked about to much and with a strong rip it was near to impossible. On my way out I was almost reaching safety until some swine dropped in out of nowhere, and when I say dropped in I dont mean on feet, I mean being thrown from the lip on a close-out, his board smashed me square on my head, which ruled me out of a days surf. After a dizzy paddle back, I watched to for the rest of the day, later noticing that the guy who hit me was being dragged out by the Lifeguards with blood pouring down his face.

The next day could not have been a more opposite, totally flat, so me and my friend decided to just go for a swim around the rocks on the townside of the beach, and leave our boards and wettys in the car. Which, was driven off by another friend to go to St Ives for the day. As soon as we had realised this had happened, guess what, 3 to 4 foot sets come rolling in. After a while of discussion we decided we would cut our losses and go body surfing in just boxers. FREEZING cold but what a good time we had, if only we had our boards, there wasnt a sole in sight!

This was interseting for me because, this was the first time I had ever gone surfing all by myself in a unfamiliar place. I just started trying to surf ever two months this year. I love it to death but live 5 hours from the nearest surf spot. I had done it a couple times the year before and knew I was hooked. So still trying to figure out a way to move closer not to mention I would also have to convinced my husband of this. I think he at times thinks I'm a bit obsessed which I just say, "Well yeah, LOL. Anyways sorry on with my story. The first hour or so I basically sat there. They guys there seemed pretty local and of course I didn't want to push my way in. So I waited and waited. But finally this older gent swam over and said, "You going to sit there or are you going to surf." So then he introduced me to the little gang they had. After that everyone seemed friendly for the most part. I don't know if I would have really ever picked this spot. Except taht I friend was getting married near there and that was the only place I could sneak away to. it was kind of dirty and not the best waves. But when you are surfing how can you not have fun.

I just went to lacanau to sell my briken fish. The waves were really small: 60cm...Nethermind, I just jumped into the water to test my new fish on small but fun waves. And it worked. I even had some interesting surf.