I have this lens. It's pretty nice as far as fisheyes go, but if you're looking to justify your need for it, you'll probably end up disappointed. Like I said, this lens is great for what it does (it has excellent optics, is pretty sharp, and focuses fairly quickly [and close for that matter]), but it's applications are limited.

Also of note is the incredible distance at which this lens can focus. The shot of the birdbath made me put two of my fingers between the birdbath and the lens, and that was it. I do that because I'm afraid of scratching the objective element on something because I'm fairly confident that I would actually hit the object before the lens failed to focus on it. I'll see if I can also find a sample of flare in this lens, which I feel is the best that i've even seen.

That's the problem. This lens' usefulness is short lived. I'd say that if somebody is in the market for a fisheye in the canon mount, then this is the lens to buy, but otherwise, it's a pretty big waste of money.

Psh... fisheyes are incredibly versatile with a little photoshop knowhow. The Peleng 8mm fisheye writeup link in my sig details what you can do with a fisheye lens.

I agree that you don't want to use them everywhere, but at the same time I don't think that they are a "novelty" lens. As long as you don't go overboard, the shots fisheyes produce leave a lot of room for creativity.

That being said, I'd buy the Peleng over the sigma. 1/2 of the cost and just as good (no AF, but it isn't necessary because of the extreme DOF).

folville wrote in post #3305556Ok, here are some samples. Let me first say that this lens is sharp and extremely good at producing pleasing colors and contrast. None of the following photos has any PP at all other than resizing.

http://img69.imageshac​k.us ...p?image=img6137webq​u4.jpgAlso of note is the incredible distance at which this lens can focus. The shot of the birdbath made me put two of my fingers between the birdbath and the lens, and that was it. I do that because I'm afraid of scratching the objective element on something because I'm fairly confident that I would actually hit the object before the lens failed to focus on it. I'll see if I can also find a sample of flare in this lens, which I feel is the best that i've even seen.

Thanks for taking the time to post those examples. I was wondering why your fingers were in that shot. Amazing that it will focus that close

folville wrote in post #3305556Ok, here are some samples. Let me first say that this lens is sharp and extremely good at producing pleasing colors and contrast. None of the following photos has any PP at all other than resizing.

Also of note is the incredible distance at which this lens can focus. The shot of the birdbath made me put two of my fingers between the birdbath and the lens, and that was it. I do that because I'm afraid of scratching the objective element on something because I'm fairly confident that I would actually hit the object before the lens failed to focus on it. I'll see if I can also find a sample of flare in this lens, which I feel is the best that i've even seen.

Folville- I notice your first and third shots have black vignetting in the corners- how do you avoid that? I just bought the 8mm for my canon 20D and noticed the same thing. When I called B&H they said the lens may be defective?? Is that right? I don't want the vignetting and if that's normal, maybe I should try the Tokina 10-17mm--- what do you think?Thanks!!

mophoto wrote in post #3486265Folville- I notice your first and third shots have black vignetting in the corners- how do you avoid that? I just bought the 8mm for my canon 20D and noticed the same thing. When I called B&H they said the lens may be defective?? Is that right? I don't want the vignetting and if that's normal, maybe I should try the Tokina 10-17mm--- what do you think?Thanks!!

I am not Folville, but I can answer your question regardless .

The guy you spoke to at B&H clearly hasn't got a clue.

Essentially, the Sigma (and Peleng) 8 mm fisheyes are circular fisheyes, for FF. This means they project their image in a circle just fitting within the 24 mm height of a 24 X 36 mm frame. Actually, this circle is about 23 mm in diameter, resulting in a circular image with black all aroun dit for the rest of the frame size.

If you superimpose the APS-C sensor over the centre of this circle, you'll find that the diagonal of the sensor is just a little larger than the image projected, hence resulting in black corners on an APS-C sensor.

So, while the diagonal is still a 180 degree AoV, it does have the side effect of black corners.

If you want the frame to be filled completely, you'll need a 180 degree diagonal fisheye for APS-C, which indeed is the Tokina 10-17 at 10 mm. And it is the only one of its kind, as the Pentax design, the original, is essentially optically the same.

Furthermore, IMO the zoom function is a gimmick, because you'll want to use at 10 mm, 180 degree AoV normally, except for one side benefit: at 12-13 mm it is a 180 degree diagonal fisheye for APS-H, and at 15 mm for FF. 3 lenses for the price of one .

COOKIES DISCLAIMER: By using this site you agree that some cookies will be stored on your browser. For unlogged users we store one session id cookie. For registered members we store (in addition to login session cookie) only cookies that are essential for required functionality. We do not store any personal tracking data in cookies or other browsers' data storage methods.