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Help - i have a 2003 Boxter tiptronic s - in great shape other than a shrill loud noise like a Kazoo that only happens above 78mph - it sounds as iff coming from around the mirror area of the windscreen but then occasional sounds like its coming from the speaker area passenger side - that being said could be sound transference. Read a number of blogs about badly fitting windscreen so put tape over top rubber seal and body but still there - - as a say like a kazoo at 78mph with hard or soft top - absolutely driving me mad - any help gratefully received.

I just bought myself my first Porsche, a 1998 Boxster. I have an issue with the soft top that I'd like to get some guidance on.
The top goes down smoothly with no issues. It also comes up smoothly until it is nearly all the way up. Just before the dashboard Top light goes out, there is a pretty sharp metallic twang or snap. It did this when I was looking at the car before purchase, and it did it again this evening when I put the top up after driving the car home. I'm assuming it's getting caught on something but I wonder if anyone might have suggestions on what to look at given the late point in the cycle where it occurs?
Thanks!
Dave

Hello there, this is my first post here and I’m writing because of problem with my boxster.
Today in the morning I’ve started my 2002 boxster and noticed strange sounds from the engine/ rear side of the car
It’s a metallic, grinding sound like a loose piece of metal or something like that
Sound disappears when you press gas and comes back once you loose the pedal, I don’t know if it changes while engine is warm
Also, check engine light shown up yesterday, when I connected my BT OBD2 there was no error code.
I came with that to workshop also, and they said it’s a catalyst efficiency error.
I’ve had that error code a while ago, I’ve replaced mass air flow meter and check engine light disappeared.
I think it might be a problem with maf again because I bought not the cheaper, not the original one, but why are there these strange sounds? I’m worried about this. Could it be catalyst this time? Or again should I replace maf? This time I’ll buy original one.
here are two Videos I made
Also I’m sorry if you can’t understand something, my english is not perfect.
Thank you for all replies, I hope we will solve that problem together

Hi. The title is probably self explanatory. If I get a used diff, is it just plain risky, or can it be understood whether the thing is one of the good ones or not before I replace my noisy one with it?
Much thanks for any insight.

Hi,
there's a noise I hear for a couple of days now. It's on the right side of the car. It's not very loud, you can hear it only if you get out of the car and get close to the fender.
Any ideas what it could be?
– Konstantin

I'm getting a weird buzzing noise (buzz/whine) when above 4000 RPM. It's a 997S 1st gen no mods, with about 70k on it. It sounds a bit like the car is struggling at anything past 4000 RPM.. It happens in gear and in neutral. When its hot and cold. if anyone has any ideas of parts I should look at, that may be causing this, please let me know!
I'll post a video of the sound in the next couple of days too, so you can hear what it sounds like.
Thanks a lot!

Hello everybody, recently has the engine of my Cayenne V6 ( Bj. 2004) sounds like a diesel.
The sound is subjectively from the left side of engine ( in direction of travel). Coupled to the noise is uneven running in the state .
The error occurred suddenly and without warning after I turned off the engine and about 2 minutes later started again.
I have read the following Durametric 2015_03_14_12_55_03_Cayenne Logfile.pdferror codes:
P0016 Position camshaft to the crankshaft Bank 1 - Upper limit value exceeded , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light
P0300 Misfire detection checksum error - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light
P0305 Misfire detection cyl. 5 - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light
P0303 Misfire detection cyl. 3 - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light P0304 Misfire detection cyl. 4 - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light
The measurements show strong deviations between the actual and setpoint ignition (partly > 16 ° ) and on all cylinders misfiring. Only on cylinder 4 absolutely no misfire is detected ( feather edge . But does not the evaluation ? ).
At a higher speed, the deviation is significantly lower , but as soon as I go by the gas engine almost dies off.
The data I 've attached a table as pdf.
The engine is 140 thousand kilometers. At 100 TKM the complete timing chain drive incl. Camshaft adjuster was renewed ( elongated chain). Since then, the engine ran flawlessly and without any disturbance.
I have checked the throttle and the LMM expanded and completely cleaned. The timing chain tensioner I have also expanded and it appears OK ( Piston moves freely ).
The oil is inside for 9 tkm , spark plugs for 40 thousand kilometers.
A car mechanic told me in a rough diagnosis everything points to disguised timing out ( timing chain ). In this context : Can the intake manifold (sorry I just remembered no better word , meaning the part in which distributes the air and is passed to the motor ) Remove without expanding the engine(to remove the valve cover ) ? Seems rather hard installed ?
Does anyone have an idea on what the error or the running behavior might even suggest ? Timing chain would of course be the meltdown ... motor out etc .... Would be glad if I could get some input. Thank you in advance in advance

I sent my car to two separate shops a while ago to have some stuff looked at. When I got it back from the second place, the guy mentioned that the window wasn't rolling down when the door is opened. This hasn't occurred when I sent the car in so I have no idea what could have happened. Long story short, the window won't roll down when the door is opened, and when I do roll it down, I hear a strange crackling noise. It's as if a small pebble or something is grinding against the glass. Not a pretty sound. I've had this problem for a few months and haven't noticed any damage to the glass so I'm assuming it's not actually a pebble inside. Has anyone else experienced this and know how to fix it? It's a 1997 boxster.

Hi Renntech Experts,
Please pepper my situation with your wisdom... 2001 Boxster S
118,000 Kms LN ENGINEERING double row bearing installed 1 year ago
last service: 105,000 kms
minor mods e.g. pod filter and cold air intake
A grinding noise started coming from the engine bay this morning while parking the car (warm engine, low rpm)
I turned the car off just after it happened hoping it was nothing
I came back 8 hours later, started the car and the noise was there from the start (recording is from inside)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-lg21ZsNUmnSzFyQmpBd3lqS1k/edit?usp=sharing
The noise changes sometimes (in a bad way), it gets higher pitched for a few rotations then goes back to normal, so maybe its a bearing.
No noticeable change when I turn on the AC
Please share the love if you can

Hey crew, hoping you can point me (and likely my mechanic) in the right direction with this.
My 2003 C4S with 65,000 miles makes a ticking noise sporadically, coming from the rear passenger side. The frequency of the ticking is tied to my speed, and starts around 6 MPH and up. At that speed it probably ticks about 10x per second. The sound only occurs when the clutch is engaged. It seems to happen more often when I build up some speed (around 10+ MPH), then let off the gas.
Here's a recording of the sound. It's a little hard to hear over the engine, but listen at the following second points: 0:15-0:19, 0:22, 0:25-0:31, 0:37, 1:06, 1:12-1:13.
http://www.mosney.net/porsche/porsche-996-ticking.m4a
Bonus points: there's another sort of whirr/insect-like noise that occurs at seconds 0:35, 1:04. 1:18, 1:25. That seems to happen when I'm decelerating from around 15 MPH, but I'm pretty sure I hear it at higher speeds as well when I'm driving by parked cars or a wall. Maybe not related, I'm just trying to check these things off one at a time.
Thanks for any help!
Jonathan

Hi I recently purchased a 2003 996 C4S Tiptronic, Its my first Porsche and also my first Auto gearbox. I notice when cold on start up there is quite a loud whine when breaking and changing down its not as loud or an issue when warmed up. Is this normal or is there a possible gearbox, Diff or brake issue that needs attention.

Hello
Last time i got great help from you guys when my coolant system was leaking. I got it fixed and it's all thanks to you!
Now i have a new problem. My 986 makes squeaking noise at ~5-20 km/h speed. The noise comes louder when i steer right. The noise comes somewhere near left rear wheel. The brakes have been replaced recently and i think brakes make different kind of noise?. Please see the video in youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slZvKc-yE-8. How can i debug this and what should i check first?

Hi everyone, my 99 C2 runs strong except for a couple of concerns. First, I have a cold start chain clatter that I will address with new tensioners (eventually). Since I have owned the car however, I have an intermittent "whooping" sound when I engage the clutch. It seems to happen more if the car is rather warm. The clutch does not seem to slip and like I said, the car runs strong. I am thinking that it is a sound related to the release bearing and nothing to get too screwed up about. Any thoughts from the community?

Hello all.
I did something wrong and maybe you know what.
I just did a bunch of things with the trans out including replacing the clutch and updating the release lever and associated hardware. When I fired it up it made a nasty grinding sound which went away when I released the clutch. It returns whenever I push the pedal past about 1/2 way. The spring feedback on the pedal is different from before but not unnatural. My suspicion is that the release lever is not sitting on the ball properly (or not at all), but the other end seemed to be in the right place to accept the slave cyl pushrod so I thought all was well. I did read something about using tape to hold something in position but didn't do this and the Bentley manual doesn't mention it.
Any suggestions? It is on axle stands on a 4 post lift in case that makes it possible to do something to narrow it down.
Thanks

Hello all new to this site but finding it really helpful, wondering if someone can help, i own an 06 4S cab with 52k miles, at start up sometimes get a very annoying loud screeching sound, its only at start up, never on acceleration, just had coils, plugs and belts all changed, 3 days after it left the shop it started happening again. Any ideas?

My 996 '00 C2 tail/rear spoiler makes this coffee grinder noise when opening or closing in a static check while being activated from the footwell toggle switch (After flight check).
Although, this noise is still not audible by the cabin occupants at applicable highway speeds.
The spoiler works as intended but its laborious movement feels like one or more bearing/gear(s) are getting tired or require some grease of some kinds: silicone, synthetic, not sure? and how/where to be applied, even more ignorant ...
Any insight, from this august group, would be appreciated!
Merci!
Martin

Hi Guys,
I am a new member.
I have been stumped trying locate a vibrating noise (that lasts approx 2-3 seconds) that my Carrerra 4 makes under load @1500-2000 rpm that's driving me nuts! As soon as the rpms get above 2000 rpm it goes away. The best I can describe the noise as the noise you would hear if the was a loose shroud with something, like a driveshaft rubbing against it. I can't produce the noise while standing still, I have to be moving. At first, I thought it was the exhaust, I have since eliminated it as the culprit. The noise comes from under the car (can't tell if its front or back) . I have checked the spark plug covers and the heat shields as well. CVs are good and so are the wheel bearings.
I have looked at every post regarding "noises" on this and every other forum on the net and my best guess is the flex/guibo connecting the cardan shaft. However, I can't find in any of the posts how to go about inspecting the Guibos on the car.
Could somebody help me shed some light please?
I recently changed the transmission mount, engine mounts, new IMS and new RMS.
Thanks in advance for any help.

I have a 2003 Boxster with 77,653 miles. I am the third owner and this Tiptronic Porsche was brand new in late December 2002. It is my daily driver and most of its miles are on the highway. It hasn't been tracked.
Roughly two weeks ago the coolant temperature blinking light came on for roughly a minute. It has come on once since then. Each time the engine temperature was perfectly fine throughout the 1 1/2 trip. I did not until today check the coolant level (my bad) and now see that the fluid is well below the minimum level but can be seen when looking down through the opening.
On the way home from San Antonio for Thanksgiving I heard a new cyclical noise that sounds like bearings going out. I've read up on different websites that it is likely my alternator, pulleys, or water pump. My battery registers 12.6 volts when the engine isn't running and 13.93 when it is running. I bought a mechanics stethoscope and as best I can tell the water pump and the lower pulley seem to have rough noises. And there does seems to be the smallest flutter in the water pump pulley with it going in and out maybe 1 to 2 mm.
Here's a link to a short video (
) of the engine running and you can hear what I think is a bearing going. Would the next step in isolating the problem be to remove the drive belt and try spinning the pulleys and water pump pulley freely to see if there is any obvious failure going on? I tried the WD-40 trick but spraying it on the pulleys while running didn't make any obvious difference.
If it is the pulley and/or water pump how difficult are those fixes if I'm handy and have in the past replaced a turbocharger on my old Saab 900? I don't fear much in the way of fixes (perhaps to a fault). Please share your wisdom or I'll end up spending too much at a shop. :-)
Thanks,
Trevor in Austin

I have an unusual buzzing noise coming from the instrument cluster area on my 2000 Carrera 4 with white dials. I know there is a TSB from Porsche but it seems like it is for the 997's. I can not tell if it is air related or from an electronic buzzer.
The buzzing noise occurs at about 75MPH and above. It is inconsistent, sometimes it will start at 75MPH and other times at 83 or 85 MPH. Based on the inconsistency and the sound, I am thinking it could be wind related, but how is wind making its way to the cluster? It sounds just like an electronic buzzer and I noticed something that looks like a buzzer on the back of the instrument cluster when I changed some bulbs a month ago. Could this be a speed related alarm?
It is very annoying and I don't know where to start; I appreciate any advice.
If this does not sound familiar to anyone, perhaps I can try and create a video of the problem and post it.

Hi Porsche enthousiasts!
I am reading a lot since a few days on these forums, especially the 986 ones there i am a fresh owner since march of this year.
There my Boxster is driving perfect i am wondering about a weird noise at cold startup and sometimes but not often after a restart after e few houres of driving. I have already asked this at two Porsche specialist over here but none of them are able to tell me exactly what it is. The only thing they do telling me is not to worry about and to drive the Porsche wihout sleepness nights. The first one is sure that the noise is well know also on the 996 engines and will not go away and not will harm my engine eighter. The second one thinks about the timing chains but also, nothing to worry about.
I don't now what to believe or todo with it. I want to know where the noise is coming from so here is the link of a soundclip attached. The noise is on the driver side and at cold startup for a few seconds, than it goes away and my car is running perfect.
Hope someone can help me over here.
Thanks a lot guy's !!
Startgeluid_Motor.mp3

Hi all,
Being fed up with the droning noise I had between 3 and 4 Krpm I decided to take a look seriously at it
I first thought it was coming from the tailpipes, no no, they sound like an empty tin can but no they are not the cause
I remembered having read about potential break of the exhaust pipes reinforcement ( since there are 2 of them on the PSE), that reinforcement is a thick piece of metal that kind of wrap up the pipes together, I really looked carefully a couple of time before but could not find any issue, when taking away the tailpipes i could see it better and it was clearly broken at 2 places on the 2 sides, this will require welding which I am planing to do
But
To be sure that I am not going to weld for nothing I decided to open the crack and put some silicon ( loctite 5940) to kind of dampen the noise
The good news is that it works and it lasts, silicon will stand high temperatures and will stand time
This is now day and night for me, that droning was just annoying, I am not ashamed to rev in public anymore :D
This quickfix could be a solution for those not wanting to weld and it takes maximum 5 minutes
I am planning to do the welding and will document it in the DIY section
Picture from ebay, the reinforcement can be seen just above the big pipe