Curry gets a contemporary update with a soupçon of extra spices, sweet potatoes, and tart pineapple

There are all kinds of curry—green, red, panang, to name a few—and places like the Caribbean, West Africa, and the Far East have developed their own particular versions. But in terms of French and American food, until recently the word curry referred to only one type—Indian or Madras curry, a yellow powdered spice made of a blend of turmeric, coriander, and ginger and often infused with hot peppers. Widely used in Africa as well as the United Kingdom, it was first incorporated into French cooking in the late 19th century.

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

My pineapple-and-coconut chicken curry evokes the classic curry dishes served in French and American households back in the 1950s and '60s, but it is more complex and richer in flavor because of extra ginger, turmeric, and cayenne pepper. The chicken is browned in the fragrant spices and then braised in a sauce that is both sweet and tart thanks to the addition of a cinnamon stick, fresh pineapple—which gives it a sharp edge—and creamy coconut milk. Sweet potatoes or yams are simmered with the chicken, becoming infused with flavor.

Most Popular

This is an easy, delicious one-pot meal that is both hearty and exotic. I like to serve it with curried jasmine rice, which reiterates the taste and soaks up the wonderful sauce. You can even cook the chicken ahead of time and keep it warm, which makes it ideal for a casual supper or weekend brunch, allowing you to relax and enjoy your guests. It is a timeless curry dish, and all the more comforting for that.

What to Drink

This aromatic and intensely flavorful dish requires "a wine of equal pungency and flavor to complement it," says Daniel Johnnes, wine director of Daniel restaurants. "And because the curry has sweetness from the pineapple and coconut, it needs something with a hint of fruitiness." He recommends a Vouvray demi-sec 2005 from Philippe Foreau ($36) in the Loire Valley. "It has the right texture to pair wonderfully with the creamy chicken," Johnnes explains. "Its balance of sweetness will cool any heat emanating from the curry, plus its acidity will leave the palate refreshed." A good alternate, he says, would be a German Riesling, known for its powerful aroma; he suggests a Kabinett Jean-Baptiste 2007 from Gunderloch ($19).