Monday, November 7, 2011

too strong?!

... sounds stupid, but it was exactly the reason this time why i went down going for the last hard move!!!

first it was planed to go to murgstal. sustenpass had forecasted rain so the plan was to meet "gu" and his girlfriend and try a bit on "entlinge" and a new, very nice compression-line from fred nicole, called "bourgonne".

just in the minute before leaving home i checked the webcam from sustenpass and saw the road totally dry. quick check of several weatherstations and webcams and it was clear the the "foen-wind" had kicked in, and that ment: no rain and warm weather (10+C at 2000m) .... so it was clear i HAD to go to sustenpass ;) a quick call to gu (who - or course - sent "bourgonne") and off i was with angela to sustenpass again.

arriving at sustenpass it was dry and nicely warm but still humid and rainclouds arrived from the south. after the 40min hike i quickly warmed up and went for a try. first try ended at the undercling, just greasing off... 10min rest and another shot saw me climbing into the last crux, not too cold fingers for once and still power left. i was so excited with how good i hit the last crux crimp and how much power i had left, that i pulled just too hard and high and while going for the next hold i lifted my body too high and lost the only foothold at that move.... i don't have to mention that this never happend before (in 7years) do i?! so this time i was TOO STRONG. never thought that that could happen! going down, i chalcked up again and toped out the standing start. no foothold slipped, why should it?! 5min later it started to rain...

pic from last week when the grip was perfect! THE move i go down whatever i try. the day in the pic i could not feel the crimp anymore. this time my foot slipped off... pic is a screenshot from gu's susten-movie

on the one hand i was pleased to climb so far in pretty greasy conditions but on the other hand i really wonder what will be next. it seems i just can not climb that f**** last hard move, doesn't matter what, "something" goes wrong. what will be next?

at least the weather is incredibly good up there! can't remember a late fall like this! winter-weather seems to still hold back... so next wednesday i have another chance to mess up that final hard move...