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CSX22DJB Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for CSX22DJB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections. - now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.9. Attach electrical lines.- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?12. Unplug fridge13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.15. Plug fridge back in.16. Take a clean glass.17. Fill with water from the front.18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.

7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.

8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.

9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.

10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).

11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.

12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.

13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.

14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.

15 Close the door.

Sticking Light Switch

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize. My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.

My wife said, "the refrigerator door won't close".

Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.

I found a little piece of the door closing cam broke off. While inspecting the door I found the bottom section of the seal cracked.

Parts were received within 3 days. Door cam was simple to replace. Door seal was a little tricky but tips on packaging helped me prepare the seal by heating in hot water. Everything went together and my 17 yr old fridge works great again.

bad light socket

unplugged refrigerator. removed light bulb from old socket. unsnapped old light socket and pulled it out just enough to diconnect the electrical plug that plugs into the socket . discarded the old socket and plugged in new socket. snapped in new socket into refrigerator. i watched how to do this simple procedure on you tube and decided to do it myself. easy easy easy

Reading other after action write-ups I diagnosed the problem to be either the defrost timer or defrost thermostat so I decided to replace both. The timer was hard to find. Turns out it was inside the kickplate grill which made it hard to demount and remount while maneuvering the wire connector around. Just took a few minutes longer than expected. The thermostat was inside the freezer compartment requiring the refrig to be off and defrosted (heavy ice buildup on the coils confirmed diagnosis). Had to cut old thermostat wires and reattach new with crimp style wire nuts (provided with thermostat). Directions said to use silicone sealant in wire nuts - NOT provided. Need to attach new thermostat on top of coils with tie wrap (not provided). Overall reasonably easy with great results. Parts arrived very fast.

For the past 6 months I've dreaded trying to find the parts and make the needed repairs to the slide rails. I just didn't have time to search for part numbers and drag all the tools out. I even contemplated buying a new frig. I thought I would have to find the original "Owners Manual". How stupid was I?

Within 15 minutes the model number was determined and the parts (VERY EASY to find the exact part) were ordered. They arrived within a week (in a GE wrapper). I unscrewed two parts per rail and within minutes the repairs were done. It took me a lot longer to clean and wipe down everything to make the refrigerator look like new again. I bragged to all my friends (like I was some type of engineer) and have referred this website to many of them. What a fantastic experience. I saved over $1,200 and the hassle of moving a frig in and out of the house. Glad you're in business and on the web.

Removed 2 phillips head screws to remove ice maker (could have just loosened them)Pulled fan off of shaftRemoved 2 phillips head screws on motor bracket , disconnected three motor wires & removed motor.reversed process to install new motor & fan blade.Space was a little tight for two hand and arms, but do-able.

Unplugged refrigerator, removed three screws to take out part, disconnected the wires and removed bad unit. Removed fan blade from old unit and attached to the new unit. Attached wires, placed the new motor back in. Plugged it back in, within 20 minutes panel between freezer and refrigerator was cool to touch.

Door wouldn't stay closed & was out of alignment

Order 2 cams as recommended in other posts.I didn't realize until the project was finished that the 2 cams fit together to tilt the door toward the refrigerator and force the door to catch.1. Removed all items from door storage. 2. Removed top hinge cover held by single screw and top hinge plate held by two bolts. 3. Lifted up door to clear bottom hinge pin and removed door. 4. Turned door upside down and removed bottom hinge assembly held on by two bolts. 5. Replaced upper cam located on bottom of door and screwed the hinge assembly back on to bottom of door. 6. Drilled out the rivet that holds the lower cam to the bottom hinge pin. 7. Removed old lower cam and and replaced with new cam and secured to lower hinge assembly with pan head screw and nut (instead of rivet). NOTE: The metal shim that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken, we used a small washer instead of the replacement shim.8. Replaced door back onto lower hinge pin and secured upper hinge pin with original bolts. 9. Placed cover on upper hinge assembly and secured with original screw. This is a project my husband and I completed together :)Perhaps we will store lighter items on the door to lessen the chances of the cams deteriorating again.

Gasket was getting old and cracking.

I removed all the screws first, then everything pretty much came apart together -- the gasket along with the plastic shelving and the metal plates that hold it all together. Not being that adept at home repair it took me longer than it probably should have. What took the longest was putting all the screws back, but once it was on I could tell I had done it right as the fridge was nice and cold inside, and at a lower setting. The old gasket had been letting cold air out and was also creating condensation where the gasket was coming apart. It was well worth it!

Door closing cam had disentigrated over the past 12 years.

I read over the other posts here and went with jacking up the fridge door and setting it on (2) 2x4 studs. A nut driver was used to remove the bottom hinge. I then drilled out the rivet that held the old cam in place and then used a 3/16 rivet to secure the new cam. A rivet is not necessary as you can also use a nut and bolt to hold the cam in place. It took less time to order the part and install it than it did to drive over to the appliance parts store and pick it up. I ordered around 10 am and the part was here the next day at 2:00 (without special delivery costs). By 2:30 it was on my fridge.