Tranquillity in the midst of a bustling city

The pool is aglow with candles at Amanfayun Resort.

Photograph by: Mike Grenby
, for Postmedia News

What a place, what an experience. I've been coming to Aman resorts for 15 years; this was my friend's first Aman visit. But we both reacted the same way: unforgettable.

You can Google Amanfayun to read the back story: a resort built into the original 47 dwellings of a 14-hectare village on the wooded outskirts of Hangzhou in China. Therein lies its appeal.

China can be a frantic place to visit. Even Hangzhou, a relatively small city with a population of "only" about six million (compared to Shanghai's 15 million), gives you the feeling of people everywhere.

So, for example, when you visit West Lake, the city's major natural attraction, you will have thousands of fellow tourists for company.

Pollution is equally omnipresent; haze hides the sun for weeks at a time.

But you can escape all this at Amanfayun, with bamboo forests and other greenery, a stream running through the middle of the property, saffron-gowned monks walking along the original village's cobblestone path (seven temples and monasteries are within walking distance), the sun actually breaking through.

The genuinely warm, friendly smiles from all the staff enhance your visit immeasurably, whether you are dining on ironed table-cloths, having a spa (or pool) experience, or being accompanied on an excursion.

The daily afternoon tea in Fayun Place, which dates back to the 1800s, features complimentary savoury and sweet treats and also a demonstration of, for example, the tea ceremony or various handicrafts. You are invited to take part.

In the background a young woman in traditional dress plays the lute.

The best thing about the room is that you have space to move. Choices include a 66 square metres "room," an 88 square metres for the basic suite or 135 square metres for the deluxe. Or, you can choose the 290-square-metre Amanfayun Villa.

No baths are provided - the original villagers didn't have baths - but the rain-head shower is more than adequate.

You can always soak in the wooden hot tub in the Bath House and swim in the secluded pool. The heated stone floors feel great even in the summer, especially on rainy days.

A variety of fresh fruit is provided every day.

The details

- Best amenity: Afternoon tea in Fayun Place, which dates back to the 1800s.

- Who would like it: Amanfayun (like all Aman resorts) is at the top end of amazing, unique luxury travel. For most people, this means a visit to celebrate a special occasion.

- One quibble: While the dark suite interiors would be familiar to the original Chinese villagers, today's guests would probably like to have the option to turn on more and brighter lights. Amanfayun has plans to address this concern.

- More information: Toll-free in Canada 18002255-2626, www.amanresorts.com. When you go to China, you will probably include Beijing and Shanghai in your itinerary; Hangzhou is only a short ride by bullet train from Shanghai and definitely worth considering as a taste of tranquil luxury in a traditional Chinese setting.

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