Pretty good so far right? Now for the smaller, cylindrical parts of the screw. Take a PVC pipe (I used a 3/4" interior diameter, but as always, whatever you deem fit) and cut two small lengths of it: a short, perhaps an inch or so long, length for the part of the screw thread that is adjacent to the screw head itself; and a somewhat longer (2.5 inches perhaps) section for the end of the screw that will implicitly be coming out of the other side of your head. I have the longer section pictured; I forgot to take a picture of the other one: http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/3...7090815rn9.jpg
Take a small rectangular strip of the plastic and wrap it around the inside of the PVC pipe, cutting it down to length such that it just barely fits: http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/1...7090816gx0.jpg
Measure how long that strip is and remember it. Then, cut out a plastic rectangle with the length being that of the PVC section, and the width being that of the strip you just measured. Obviously, do this for both PVC sections: http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/3...7090832uv2.jpg

You might be asking why I didn't simply start with the PVC section itself and add craft foam to the inside of that. Well, the answer is that the PVC adds more weight to the end product than the styrene / craft foam does. I'm also a bit of a perfectionist, so I suppose that can be attributed to it as well. xD

Almost done now! The next step is to connect the screw head and tail to the arrow-through-head prop. First, I went ahead and cut off the ends of the arrow itself, since we wont be needing it. I also cut the handle of the noisemaker down to size a bit: http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/5...7091023vv8.jpg
In my case, the handle and rod diameters were such that when I cut off the end of the handle, the rod could actually slip right into the noisemaker handle and into the head of the screw! I used the short plastic cylinder as a medium between the two. As for the screw tail, remember that I added enough craft foam to the inside of the cylinder so that the rod would fit tightly. Here's a picture: http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/8...7091135sd2.jpg

Of course, this should all be glued together with thermal adhesive or something else strong, so that there's no chance of it coming apart. Make sure that when you're gluing the screw head combination that you don't accidentally glue the plastic cylinder to the screw head itself; remember that you still want to be able to turn the screw so that it clicks! Next, measure the diameter of the screw tail, cut out a polystyrene circle of that diameter, and glue it onto the end of the tail, like so: http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/7527/0107091151tn0.jpg

hey i really want to make this cause it seems so awesome and i've been having trobble with how to make stein's screw but i have 1 problem........ i can't seem to find a noise maker anywhere.... do you know where i could get one?

Okay, so I finished my screw and it came out rather well if I do say so myself. There is one problem I had that I was hoping someone could help me resolve.

I wore this to a halloween party and I realized that after about an hour and a half to two hours it started to hurt my head and not to long after I started to get a really bad headache. I'm not the only one who noticed this as some other people joked around with it. So could anyone suggest something to pad it, I guess, or otherwise prevent such things from happening. I would suck to have to constantly remove the screw and wig at a con.

i know this might sound stupid of me asking*duh*..but do you like..take requests/commission for this?....and if so how much would the price be...im willing to pay anything xD since its a master piece...seriously iv never seen anything like this and im positive i wont be able to do it by myself xD

I'd like to say that I used the general concept of this tutorial too and it turned out fabulous. Unfortunately, its a bit side-heavy on the left side. Also, the spinny part becomes looser the more I spin it so I'll have to reglue it every once in a while. Also, I have no clue how to wear it without the headband showing!

Ok so I have looked around on this site and saw a lot of posts on how to make the Bolt for Dr. Stein. Well, I wanted in explain my way of doing it. Its simple, fast to make, less than $10.00 to make and looks good. I see a lot of people use PVC pipe. Use Wooded Dowels. So here goes:

You need a Spinning Clicker (something you buy from Party City, those things people use during the new year) they are $1.00, 1" dowel, heavy duty WIRE hanger, foam sheet about 8''X11"X1/2", GOOD STRONG LOOKING CARD BOARD, and 1-2 pieces of Sticky Foam sheet of paper from Jo Anne Fabrics. <<<If you dont have a sander buy 80 grit sand paper>>>

****Make sure your 1/2" foam sheet is not breakable foam. Something that you can squeeze and goes back to its regular shape.****

1: Cut out 2 circles out of the card board for the head the bolt, at least two times the size of the clicker.
2: Cut out the 1/2" foam also the same size as the cardboard.
3: Find the center of the foam and one piece of cardboard and cut out a hole big enough for the hadle to the clicker to go through.
4: Next, stick the clicker handle through the hole in the foam and trace with a pen the clicker on the foam to cut out so the clicker can be placed within the foam.
5: Glue the cardboard circles on each side of the foam so you have cardboard, foam, cardboard. (make sure the clicker is set right.)
5a: You now should have the head of the bolt about half done.
5b. If you have a power sander this helps. Sand the edges to have a smooth edge.
6: Now with the Sticky foam paper, trace out about two or three same size circles as before.
7: Now cut out about 1/2" to 3/4" from the center to make the shape of a "D". Now if you understanding me you are making the slit on top of the bolt. The more you cut the thicker the slit will be.

8: Now measure the thickest of you bolt head and cut strips of sticky foam to GO AROUND THE CIRCUMFERANCE of the head. This hides all the pieces you glued and makes it smooth.

9: Take the dowel and cut about 3-4" dending on how long you want it to be and drill out a hole deep enouogh and wide enough to stick the clicker handle into.

10: On the opposite side drill a hole (in the center) 1/64" smaller than the thickness of the heavy duty wire hanger.

11: Paint everything before putting together.

12: For the other side (just the striaght dowel) you do the same thing, drill out a hole 1/64" smaller than the wire hanger.

13: Now if you want to effect of a screw with threads what I did was stuck a little strip of sticky foam around and around the dowel to look like a screw, your choice.

14: When all done making, you bend the wire hanger into an "L" shape and measure your head or whose ever head this is going on, and do the same thing for the other side. you stick the "L" in the hole of the bolts and now it stays on your head. When wearing a wig it stays on even better. This is not a heavy prop. Mine stays perfect across. A lot of people's bends in two directions and is made out of cardboard. You can do this but my advice would be at least use the sticky foam to make things look smooth, and not bumpy like cardboard. PLEASE DON'T USE DUCK TAPE. I MAKES IT LOOK REALLY BAD.