Do we have anyone in the engineering game who could knock me up a couple of special “sump plug” type bolts?What I’m after is M12 with a 1mm pitch X 15 – 20mm which is as rear as rocking horse shit!I have removed a cable from a non Bandit and need to replace the cable fixing screw. Material won’t really matter. Brass, SS, Ally, MS would be fine. It’s not load bearing but is subject to radiated heat. I actually only need 1 but thought it might be easier to make 2.Can anyone help please?

_________________

My posts reflect my personal experience or opinion. You don't have to agree with me.

Thanks guys.It would be easier although less attractive to just refit the cable without hooking it into the actuator.I have a bit of exhause bandage covering the hole at the moment but it probably wont last long.I've run out of time to do something before the weekend but I'll visit a local engineering joint next week and see if I can get one made out of alloy or brass.

Banjo bolts are way to long. Only have room for 12 - 15mm as there is an internal shoulder it seats on.

_________________

My posts reflect my personal experience or opinion. You don't have to agree with me.

@barry_mcki wrote:So what exactly are you doing, sounds like an O2 sensor you're taking out ? Pic's ?

Barry the VFR1200 has a 2 stage muffler. The first stage is a small pipe and the second is a much larger pipe with a flap covering it that remains closed until about 4,500rpm. Its actuated by an ECU controlled servo and not throttle position so the opening and closing varies especially on the over run. This set up also helps the VFR pass noise regs as a drive by on low throttle or stationary without load will see the flap remain closed.

Honda set it up in such a way (thankfully) that the default position is open and the cable/servo actually closes it. So by removing the cable or unhooking from the servo the flap is open. This equals more power and a much improved note over the original singer sewing machine sound unless really up it.

It’s interesting to note that most aftermarket pipes show not much more than 1hp gain over OEM so they’re pretty well designed. If only they weren’t big and weigh 5.5kg but its very hard to get an aftermarket unit that looks good with panniers on and off.

So I have removed the cable completely and I’m now left with a “nut” welded to the top of the muffler about 2/3 of the way along. Exhaust gasses exit from the opening straight onto the bottom of the RH pannier. It shouldn’t be enough to melt it but I basically have a hole in the exhaust. Just need to replace the threaded bit in the pic

_________________

My posts reflect my personal experience or opinion. You don't have to agree with me.

If the cable is truly redundant why not remove the "threaded thingy" from the end and fill it with muffler putty (or for a more elegant job maybe silver solder or bronze)

Mate that was my first thought. Then one of the voices in my head said I might need to go "OEM" one day (stock can had to be fitted to the B1250 when I traded it) and it would mean cutting the cable to get the nut off. If all else fails and its looking like it will, I'll have a plug made for small change.

_________________

My posts reflect my personal experience or opinion. You don't have to agree with me.

It is a bit alarming to hear the dealer insisting on your bike being "original" when you trade it.Lucky you kept the original. I wonder how many have "binned" the original muffler when they upgraded.I traded my Bandit with HID headlights which I am still unsure of the legality of even today. I guess this is a warning to others if you fit a fender eliminator, small indicators or other handlebars, don't throw away the original equipment.

It is a bit alarming to hear the dealer insisting on your bike being "original" when you trade it.Lucky you kept the original. I wonder how many have "binned" the original muffler when they upgraded.I traded my Bandit with HID headlights which I am still unsure of the legality of even today. I guess this is a warning to others if you fit a fender eliminator, small indicators or other handlebars, don't throw away the original equipment.

Its a Vic thing mate. Mainly at dealers. Private roadworthy wouldnt be a problem. If I didnt have OEM gear I would have lost some barganing power.

_________________

My posts reflect my personal experience or opinion. You don't have to agree with me.

Thanks Chris. Yep, know what you mean about keeping things original so they can be put back to standard, I haven't even turfed out my secondary butterfly discs.

I think the AN fitting would be your cheapest option if you can't get a plug the right size, you could tell the LEO's its the " Post Catylitic Convertor Sensor Installation Terminal", plus you could have it colour matched

It is a bit alarming to hear the dealer insisting on your bike being "original" when you trade it.Lucky you kept the original. I wonder how many have "binned" the original muffler when they upgraded.I traded my Bandit with HID headlights which I am still unsure of the legality of even today. I guess this is a warning to others if you fit a fender eliminator, small indicators or other handlebars, don't throw away the original equipment.

Its a Vic thing mate. Mainly at dealers. Private roadworthy wouldnt be a problem. If I didnt have OEM gear I would have lost some barganing power.

That's all it would be, just an excuse to mark you down on the trade in value. Gives them the upper hand.

No John I've had no luck even at a specialist bolt shop in Traralgon last Tuesday. I'll be up in Wang sometime this month and if you're offering to make me one I'd be grateful thanks mate.Material won't matter. M12 X 1mm X 12mm would be ideal. Think of a small sump plug. A fiber washer would be handy too but I could probably get one of them.Is this possible John?

_________________

My posts reflect my personal experience or opinion. You don't have to agree with me.