The only part in the carb base that needs to be removed is the idle mixture screw. Everything else is linkage that should be left intact. The linkage and butterfly valves should be inspected for smooth operation and defects.

The objective of cleaning is remove varnished fuel, dirt and grime from all the pieces and parts and passages of the carburetor. The effective method of doing this involves dipping the parts in carburetor cleaner for a day.

After dipping the parts need to be rinsed and an air hose can be used to dry the parts. The air hose should also be used to blow-out all the passages in the carb parts. The carb dip is not good for rubber, plastic or skin. Care should be taken to not submerse any parts that have rubber or plastic.

The carb dip can is not big enough to hold all the carb parts at one time. I was told that the cleaning is even more effective if the parts are dipped, rinsed, and dried with the air hose twice – so I did this and as a result it took several days to complete the cleaning.

If you are rebuilding a carb from your own truck and your truck has been running fine – skip this post as you are best off making sure you put each jet back in the same place when you re-assemble the carb.

In my case, I did not know the history of the carb that I was rebuilding, I’d never seen it running. The FSM details the jet sizes that should be used in a 2 barrel carb. I posted a threads on Rising Sun and IH8MUD seeking input on jet size recommendations for my situation. I was pretty fortunate to have all the sizes in my carb kit to match up with what others in the club have had success with but not quite fortunate enough to have the jet sizes recommended by one of the Aisan carb professionals.

Basically, you put everything back together in the reverse order of the teardown. All worn or damaged parts should be replaced. All replacement parts that come in the carb kit should be used as appropriate.

Upon completing the assembly, the accelerator pump arm should be adjusted so that it has 8mm of travel.

The float should be adjusted so that when it is inverted and resting on the needle (with its own weight) the distance between the float and the surface of the air horn is 4.1mm. Even though this photo makes it look like the bottom of the float is like at 9mm - it is just the angle at which the photo was taken.

The float should also be adjusted so that when t is right side up, there is a 1mm gap between the float and the needle.

Wow, my truck is now running with the rebuilt carb. There are not any earth shattering performance improvements that I can notice. It is very satisfying to know more about my carb, how it is put together and how it works.

I took it out on the snow run to Devils Canyon last Sunday and to the meeting on Wednesday night and my son is driving it to work and school everyday. It does start up much stronger and is warming up better than before the rebuild.

If you are rebuilding a carb from your own truck and your truck has been running fine – skip this post as you are best off making sure you put each jet back in the same place when you re-assemble the carb.

In my case, I did not know the history of the carb that I was rebuilding, I’d never seen it running. The FSM details the jet sizes that should be used in a 2 barrel carb. I posted a threads on Rising Sun and IH8MUD seeking input on jet size recommendations for my situation. I was pretty fortunate to have all the sizes in my carb kit to match up with what others in the club have had success with but not quite fortunate enough to have the jet sizes recommended by one of the Aisan carb professionals.

There are a large number of parts and pieces that need to be removed for cleaning. However do not fully disassemble every piece of the carb; butterfly valves and leave and linkage should be kept as intact as possible.

Learned that one the hard way. The FSM describes the process for disassembling the valves from the air horn, so I went for it. Broke both brass screws...... Luckily Ace has a good selection of small brass (in SAE), so I retapped it and reassembled.

Very nice writeup overall. I thought about letting someone else do my rebuild, but I decided to rebuild mine about a month ago and I'm glad I did it. I learned quite a bit about the carb construction, tuning, and that spaghetti throttle linkage. I thought it was a pretty fun project.

Which rebuild kit did you use? I posted somewhere else that I was surprised at the variability in the parts list included in the different kits. Even the Keyster kits vary quite a bit.