EN Summary: In this article you’ll find my review and all the relevant construction details of my make of this lovely pant suit by Rebecca Vallance (V1525), made up from GorgeousFabrics’ Aubergine Super Confortable Stretch Textured Crepe (here). Keep reading for the full review!

EN: I am a sucker for monochromatic separates so this pattern made it into my wishlist the moment it was released; I was just waiting to get the right fabric in the right color. I have been obsessed with plum/aubergine tones so when I saw this ribbed texture crepe on GorgeousFabrics I knew it would be the perfect match for this pattern: not as lightweight as the original model, but hey, it's cold and I prefer making a lightweight version of this suit for spring. This ribbed crepe has the perfect weight and drape for a winter version and as a plus it doesn't wrinkle.

EN: As you can see by observing the style lines, the pattern is really quite simple. The top has a close-fitting neckline finished with a self-fabric bias strip (take your time to test the fit of the neckline properly, specially if your neck is larger than average) and a center back invisible zipper. There are also two zippers on the sleeve cuffs, but merely decorative because the sleeve pattern is quite wide at the cuffs. The sleeves are also very long, like around 3 inches longer than average. There's a center front seam but in my opinion it can be omitted if the seam allowances are cut away and the front pattern piece is cut on the fold. The top is shorter on the front and there are side panels which add a nice drape and movement to the top. On nice feature of this pattern is that you can chose a customized cup size. I cut size 14 with C cups (there are A, B, C and D cup sizes available for each size). The pants are fairly wide with front pleats and back darts; there's a shaped waistband, slanted hip pockets and an invisible zipper closure on the center back seam.

EN: This pattern's instructions are basic and straight forward but with some intermediate sewing knowledge we can add to them and build on the quality of the final garment. From my experience, stabilizing seams that are cut on bias and subject to wearing stress is very important. I added fusible stabilizing tape to the armholes and used lining selvages to stabilize the shoulder seams (cut by the measure of the front pattern shoulders) - this treatment doesn't add bulk and once the shoulder seams are pressed open, becomes hidden under the seam. I also interfaced all zipper placement seam allowances with on-grain cut strips of interfacing. I think stay-stitching the neckline is enough as indicated in the instructions, once this edge will get the bias cut self-fabric strip sewn and under-stitched.

EN: To add some texture interest to the top I changed the grain on the front and back panels, cutting them on the cross-grain. To control the joining seams with the side panels, I decided to press the seams towards the center front/back and top-stitch. The top-stitching also helps with stabilizing these bias cut seams. All joining seams meet at the underarm point so bulk reduction strategies should be used on this area:

EN: As previously mentioned, the sleeve pattern is quite wide at the cuffs and the sleeves are also too long. I shortened the sleeves by one inch and narrowed them by two inches at the cuff, tapering into nothing near the under-arm. The sleeves remained long as you can see, but I rather like them like this and the effect that the half-way opened invisible zipper creates:

EN: Below there's a close-up of the neckline which is pretty close-fitting as you can see; I like it like this and I think it's really elegant, balancing the loose-fit of the set, but I am aware it won't appeal to everyone.

EN: In my opinion it's easier to apply the invisible zippers if they are a bit longer than the opening. Keep this in mind when buying your notions for this pattern. I used 9" invisible zippers and adjusted their length after stitching them on the zipper opening:

EN: Regarding the pants I did no modification to the pattern but added a little to the construction techniques; in addition to binding the pockets and waistband facing edge (which was not turned under, instead I kept it flat and the waistband seam stitched in the ditch), I finished the center front seam differently: instead of stitching all pocket and front layers together at center seam I finished the pocket bags center seam separately to get a cleaner finish and less bulk on the front:

EN: Here's the center back invisible zipper; Also note how the darts are closer towards the center back; this is something that surprised me in the latest Vogue patterns because the darts aren't scaled according to the size, only the side seams are scaled. I could have moved them further to the sides, but since I tried the pants on and the fit looked fine, I didn't bother to alter them.

EN: I added a zipper guard made of interfaced lining folded in half, cut according to the zipper length and bound with a bias cut lining strip; this is very easy to make and makes the pants a lot more comfortable:

EN: I am really loving sewing these latest Vogue Designer patterns and I'm hoping you guys are enjoying tagging along with me. I'm currently waiting to receive the fabrics to start yet another designer pattern, V1527 by Paco Peralta, and I am beyond excited with this next sewing project! In the meanwhile you can enjoy more photos of me wearing the Rebecca Vallance pant suit on my personal style blog (click here). Happy sewing to all!

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EN Summary:Today I have for you the Portuguese/ English translation of an excellent article written by the professional Couturier/Tailor Paco Peralta of Barcelona. Paco was so kind to review the professional techniques that he uses to construct the underlying structure of tailored garments and some of the main construction steps implied, focusing mainly on the construction of a tailored notched collar. As we all know, these are some of the most challenging aspects of tailoring. I congratulate him for his exceptional and thorough work and his invaluable contribution for all of us hobbyist dressmakers.---PT Sumário: Hoje tenho para vos apresentar a tradução para Português e Inglês de um excelente artigo da autoria do Costureiro/Alfaiate profissional Paco Peralta de Barcelona. O Paco fez um levantamento exaustivo das técnicas de confecção da estrutura interior que costuma aplicar nas jaquetas e casacos, com enfoque na gola e lapelas, que são um dos aspectos mais desafiantes da confecção …

EN Summary: After cleaning up the lining on the sleeves and sleeve vent, I couldn’t help myself and finished the cuffs. I recorded a short movie on Instagram which will give you an idea of how it looks :). Then I proceeded with setting in the sleeves by hand. Keep reading to find out about my progress so far!
--- PT Sumário: Depois de fazer o acabamento do forro nas mangas e na abertura dos punhos, não resisti a terminar o acabamento dos punhos. Gravei um vídeo no instagram que vos dará uma ideia de como fica. Depois passei à parte de coser as mangas à jaqueta à mão. Continuem a ler para verem o meu progresso até ao momento!