Saint Paul comes out of Minneapolis' shadow

Some siblings come across as rivals who seem disconnected, and that's the way I saw Minnesota's Twin Cities of Minneapolis and Saint Paul until this summer.

Now light rail connects these sisters, which means there's no reason to stay with one and ignore the other.

The ride is 48 minutes between Green Line end points: Saint Paul's newly renovated Union Depot (where Amtrak and Megabus depart) and Target Field (home of the Minnesota Twins). In between are 21 quick stops.

Seems like Minneapolis, the bigger sib at 382,600 population, has historically drawn more attention from travelers because of its pro and Big Ten sports venues, deep love of the arts and pedestrian-only Nicollet Mall shopping.

Now Saint Paul, population 285,100, gets a chance to shine brighter — and for plenty of good reasons. If you like to walk, this is the destination for you, especially when weather cooperates. When it doesn't, skyways that link key buildings downtown will help keep you dry.

These destinations deserve your attention.

• The Historic Hill preservation district, home to one gorgeous mansion after another, also is where author F. Scott Fitzgerald was born. Look for a modest apartment building at 481 Laurel Ave., a National Literary Landmark.

Fitzgerald would return to this neighborhood repeatedly and wrote "This Side of Paradise" at 599 Summit Ave. Look for a life-size sculpture of him in Rice Park downtown and the third-floor alcove of artifacts at Saint Paul Central Library. sppl.org, 651-266-7000

• It's fine to wander on your own. Summit Avenue is a popular street for walkers, and parallel to it is Grand Avenue, home to many enticing boutiques and restaurants. Some operate out of converted houses. A favorite with locals is The Tavern on Grand, whose menu is walleye-centric (that means fish tacos, sliders, ceviche and filets prepared several ways). grandavenue.com, 651-699-0029

• The Minnesota Historical Society offers guided walking tours of Fitzgerald sites on Sept. 20-21. It also operates the Minnesota History Center, whose exhibits include "Toys of the '50s, '60s and '70s," up until Jan. 4. mnhs.org, 651-259-3015

• Also on Summit is the James J. Hill House, a 42-room and 36,500-square-foot mansion of red sandstone, constructed for a railroad magnate's family in 1888-91. It was then Minnesota's most expensive house. In the 42 rooms are 22 fireplaces, 16 chandeliers and original furnishings. Take a guided tour. mnhs.org/hillhouse, 651-297-2555

• A neighbor is the 1901 Cathedral of Saint Paul, designated a national shrine by the Vatican. Guided tours begin at 1 p.m. on weekdays. cathedralsaintpaul.org, 651-228-1766

• Within view from the cathedral is the city's other grand domed structure, the State Capitol, which is undergoing major (as in $273 million) restoration work. That means only part is accessible to the public, but it's still worth seeing the dignified House and Senate chambers either on your own or during a guided tour. mn.gov (see "citizen services"), 651-201-2555

• One-half mile north of the Capitol is Hmongtown Marketplace, where a sprawling array of handicrafts, clothing, food and other items are sold indoors and outside. It's not the prettiest walk there but worth the trek, and vendors are friendly. hmongtownmarketplace.com, 651-487-3700

You'll see women sewing at this former lumberyard and cooks at work, too. More than 200 booths are staffed; Saint Paul has the nation's largest per capita Hmong population (about 10 percent of the city's residents).

I was tuckered out after this part of my visit and grateful for the light rail, which includes a Capitol/Rice Street stop. Hopping on here was a mere 50-cent ride, since I was already in the downtown zone. At most, it's $6 for unlimited rides on all rail and bus lines for 24 hours in the Twin Cities.

Closer and downtown are several other worthwhile attractions:

• Science Museum of Minnesota, home to an "Ultimate Dinos" exhibit until Aug. 24 and the "Dinosaurs Alive!" Omnitheater film until Sept. 1. smm.org, 651-221-9444

• The Landmark Center, home to the Schubert Club Museum, whose interactive exhibits will delight music lovers. Open less often is the Gallery of Wood Art. Learn more about the city's gangster history on your own or during tours of this elegant, former Federal Building that was restored as a venue for often-free public programs. Several walking tours start from here. landmarkcenter.org, 651-292-4375

• Mickey's Diner, a 1937 art deco railroad car, surrounded by high-rise buildings. Grub is good and relatively cheap at this historic blip in the dining scene, but the wait could be long. Open 24/7. mickeysdiningcar.com, 651-698-0259

• For more about travel options in Saint Paul, consult visitsaintpaul.com, 651-265-4900. For more about the Twin Cities light rail system, which also extends to Bloomington's Mall of America and the Minneapolis airport, go to metrotransit.org or call 612-373-3333

• The 1910 Saint Paul Hotel is the classiest and most historic place to stay downtown, but it's not the city's only unusual overnight option. Next week, I'll share a one-of-a-kind lodging alternative for adventurous travelers who are smitten with the Mississippi River. saintpaulhotel.com, 800-292-9292