They do precious little for the chicken since, as we all know, they can’t fly more than few feet. Yet in the world of party planning they reign supreme.

Indeed, in the high stakes world of fowl appendages demands more respect than the ones that do the chicken the least amount of good.

On closer examination there really isn’t that much to them. Let’s deconstruct the wing, shall we?

The tiny wing tip is not much use at all to the home cook, except maybe as a base for a decent chicken stock or broth.

Next to that is the flat part of the wing with two small bones that run parallel. Seasoned wing eaters can strip the meat off with one smooth move.

Finally we have the drumette, the fat part of the wing that is connected to the breast. It is where the majority of the meat is located and even then it isn’t much more than a bite or two.

Why, then, are chicken wings so coveted and prized at holiday parties? Don’t ask me; I just ask the questions, I don’t answer them.

They are also expensive. As they grew in popularity few years back they also became scarce and then expensive as party planners scurried to corner the wing market.

It made no sense to me since I find that another chicken appendage is much more desirable and tastes better, to boot. Chicken legs have a lot more flavor, are much meatier and are, for the most part, cheaper.

Why, then, aren’t legs the go-to chicken part for the holiday party? Again, I don’t know.

But I do know that chicken legs bring a lot more to the party than wings. For you next parties try substituting legs for wings and see if anybody notices.

Regardless of the chicken parts you are serving, far and away the most popular cooking method is to do it like they do in Buffalo, N.Y.

Despite rumors to the contrary, Buffalo wings aren’t harvested some mysterious strain of winged bison, but are chicken wings that are fried and doused in hot sauce and butter. According to most historians they were invited at a bar in Buffalo, N.Y., in the 1960s on a day that poultry everywhere not hold in infamy.

Like everything else, there is a right way and a wrong way to do it and Buffalo-style chicken is no different.

For instance, the sauce used is fairly universal, a mixture of butter or margarine hot sauce. The butter is used to cut the heat and to add another layer of flavor.

Second, there are a couple of methods available for cooking the chicken prior to adding the sauce, but deep frying them without breading is preferred among purists. But you can also bake them, grill them or bread them prior to frying; it’s all up to you.

That’s pretty much it. Not a lot to it. Serve with blue cheese and celery to help put out the fire and there you go, Buffalo-style chicken legs.

On second thought, Buffalo wings does sound somewhat more appealing that Buffalo Legs.

Buffalo-Style Chicken Parts

4-6 servings

2 pounds chicken wings

Pure vegetable oil

¾ cup margarine

¼ cup hot sauce (see note)

Blue cheese or Ranch dressing

Celery or carrots

Heat oil in frying pan or deep fryer to 350 degrees. Cook legs (or wings) for about 12-15 minutes, stirring chicken every few minutes so they cook thoroughly and don't stick together.

When they begin to float, remove from fryer. For crispier chicken, allow to cook for an additional 2 minutes or so.

As chicken cooks, combine margarine and hot sauce until mixture is the consistency of pudding. Pour sauce into a large mixing bowl and add chicken parts, stirring until they are all evenly coated.

Serve with blue cheese or Ranch dressing for dipping and celery or carrots to help put out the fire.

*Note: For hotter chicken, increase the ratio of hot sauce in the mixture. For the hottest sauce of all eliminate margarine completely.

(Coming tomorrow: Buffalo-style shrimp takes this down home method and makes it something special.)