The first thing you should know about the Hong Kong Inn is that the jukebox in the bar still plays 45s, at three songs for a quarter. (Peggy Lee singing "Fever" is A8. Just sayin'.) Another is that the bar itself specializes in Polynesian cocktails so large they are meant to be shared. The Volcano is the showiest: Made with four kinds of rum, it is served on fire with two orchid-pick garnishes and a pair of extra-long straws.

Made with four kinds of rum, the Volcano cocktail is set on fire before it is served to patrons at the Hong Kong Inn. A Ventura fixture since 1964, the restaurant is slated to close Nov. 30, 2012 because owners James and Thomas Kwan want to retire.

Ventura County Star

Vintage neon marks the spot: The Hong Kong Inn has been in this building at 435 E. Thompson Blvd. in Ventura since 1973, when it moved from its original site on California Street.

Ventura County Star

Framed photos of the Kwan family decorate a wall between the front door and the dining room at the Hong Kong Inn in Ventura.

Ventura County Star

Polynesian cocktails get a page of their own in the menu at the Hong Kong Inn in Ventura.

Ventura County Star

Thomas Kwan of the Hong Kong Inn prepares a Volcano, one of the Polynesian cocktails for which the 48-year-old Ventura restaurant is known. A splash of 151-proof rum is poured into the top of a ceramic "volcano" and then set aflame with a match.