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I figure this being the general all models page, this is a good general question: When should we consider an ECU "Computer" Reset... When and What Years and Models??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/puzzled.gif)

In the past on other makes I've done it when any computer connected part was changed or modified. Also, if there was a sudden difference in the way the car worked, both to see if it was a transient and to see if the codes could be duplicated and confirmed (if any existed). In each case I simply disconnected the NEGATIVE battery cable for 3-5 minutes.

Why? I'm working up a gift 1988 740 GLE (B230F Turbo) with troubles. However, I'm not sure this model even has a computer with memory capacity. My old 1980 240 certainly didn't. The 740 may just carry a fuel metering preset ECU that doesn't "learn" it's environment... or is it in truth a higher life form? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/460.gif)

I would like to see a chart with all the Volvo models and ECU types ref'ed. Then I'd like to know when that type ECU should need to be reset and how to do it safely. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/liebe011.gif)

=================================Somewhat related... is there somewhere we can send a suspect ECU to be tested by an honest and unbiased ECU shop? Some place that's not selling them? I'd say $25 would be a good price for the diag and printout report... about 10% of a typical replacement ECU is reasonable in my book, if I take it out and cover postage (or walk it in). An automated setup should be able to test 10-20 units an hour and I don't know of many shops that pass up that kind of cash if it can be done in batches. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

I figure this being the general all models page, this is a good general question: When should we consider an ECU "Computer" Reset... When and What Years and Models??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/puzzled.gif)

In the past on other makes I've done it when any computer connected part was changed or modified. Also, if there was a sudden difference in the way the car worked, both to see if it was a transient and to see if the codes could be duplicated and confirmed (if any existed). In each case I simply disconnected the NEGATIVE battery cable for 3-5 minutes.

Why? I'm working up a gift 1988 740 GLE (B230F Turbo) with troubles. However, I'm not sure this model even has a computer with memory capacity. My old 1980 240 certainly didn't. The 740 may just carry a fuel metering preset ECU that doesn't "learn" it's environment... or is it in truth a higher life form? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/460.gif)

I would like to see a chart with all the Volvo models and ECU types ref'ed. Then I'd like to know when that type ECU should need to be reset and how to do it safely. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/liebe011.gif)

=================================Somewhat related... is there somewhere we can send a suspect ECU to be tested by an honest and unbiased ECU shop? Some place that's not selling them? I'd say $25 would be a good price for the diag and printout report... about 10% of a typical replacement ECU is reasonable in my book, if I take it out and cover postage (or walk it in). An automated setup should be able to test 10-20 units an hour and I don't know of many shops that pass up that kind of cash if it can be done in batches. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

what you have is just a basic ECU you can not do anything to it, it just takes information from the sensors and controls your injectors, sending information to control fuel flow by controlling the fuel pump relay,and your noise relay, that is just a basic understanding of what it does. i replaced mine at a cost of £60 two months ago.