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About JunkerG

I found one of the problems with carb I ordered off of e-bay. The brass tube that goes between the choke tube and the base of the carb is broken where it connects to the base. I did not clean the dirt off of that area before I installed the carb, I should have, I may have seen the tube had come loose. I was lucky I had taken the warranty from Assurant when I bought it. I got the full purchase price of the carb in the form of a e-card for e-bay. I was out the purchase price of the warranty $10.49. I still don't know why the choke don't work on the China carb. As far as the gas overflow, I ordered a fuel pump from China. I'll advise if that fixes the problem.

I know it sure sounds like a float issue but changed the float settings multiple times on each of the carbs.
Today I put a clear hose on the overflow pipe and watched where the gas level showed during running and driving condition. The level is where the book shows it is supposed to be. Because the tube I used was quite long I had made a circle out of the excess. After riding it awhile I noticed there were a few drops of gas up in the circles.
I also found out that it doesn't matter much if the impulse line (vacuum) from carb is hooked up or not.
I failed to mention on first post that this unit is very hard to start. I have to hold my hand over carb to get it to fire, choke doesn't have any affect. When running if I pull the choke it will start missing or die, so it appears to be working.

I have a problem with gas leaking out of the overflow tube on the carb when riding. I doesn't leak when the bike is just idling or if I rev it up while sitting still. The original carb had other problems to but could never get the float set correctly to stop the gas leak. I bought a new carb from China and it does the same thing, all adjustments were checked and changed if necessary. Giving up on that I bought a Mikuni carb off e-bay checked and installed it. Each of the carburetors were cleaned and O-rings replaced where needed. I didn't do anything to new carb except adjust pilot screw and float settings. Same problem. I found a post by
2005 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO Fuel Pump
Started by Yoda, November 28, 2010
Talking about the fuel pump also controlling amount of fuel in carb. Does anyone think this could be my problem? How can I test this without fuel pressure gauge.
Thanks
Merry Christmas to all.

I am unable to find the default mixture screw setting for this Mikuni BSR33 carb. The screw only unscrews 4 turns and does not unthread out of the carb, (no way to clean it). When I took the carb apart to clean it the screw was set at 1 turn out. I bought this unit when it was only a few months old from a friend so I know it is the original carb. I know most carbs are set at 2.5 turns out, but would like to find out what this specific carb should be set for.

What you took out is the mixture screw. Put spring on mixture screw, then washer, then O-ring. Holding the screw so that those parts don't fall off, insert it into hole. I hold the carb so I can insert the screw with tip up, that way the parts wont fall off. Make sure you lightly seat the needle valve and then back it out the same amount of turns it was originally. If you don't know what that adjustment was, you will have to find out. Usually somewhere around 2 1/2 turns on 660s. 1 1/2 on my 450 Kodiak. Good Luck

When stepping on the foot brake pedal, there is a pin inside the shifter assy. that pulls back to allow the shifter to be moved into reverse and park. Because you were still using it without the bolts holding it in place, you may have damaged the cable going to the shifter or caused it to go out of adjustment. Adjustment is directly in front of the foot brake pedal. Otherwise you have probably bent the linkage. I have found that linkage to be a pain in the tail to adjust. Good luck.

I finally got this unit repaired. The head was ok. The cylinder had been bored out wrong. The piston was wearing on two sides, cylinder was egg shaped. They bored it out correctly to .060 over and replaced the piston and rings. Also put a kit in the carb. $650.00...I believe I have spent over 5k on this darn bike now. Trying to sell it now on Craigslist. First $2800.00 gets practically a new bike. Thanks again for help.

I've had this thing back in for repair so many times I don't remember exactly when it started smokeing. He did the major things first and it wasn't smokeing when I picked it up. I ran it awhile and it developed a ticking noise in it. He said it was the tensioner for the cam shalf chain, not to worry. Then it started smokeing a bit and I took it back. He replaced the valve guides. It was better but still not right. I drove it awhile and started to get cold so I had to use the choke to start it. Smokeing got worse after he adjusted the carb. Took it back and he advised to start it without the choke. I told him where to go and left.
Sorry I gues I need to just answer your question. No white smoke, all blue and it does have a tingh of fuel smell, but not raw gas.

ATV smokes badly when it is cold and the choke is used, it won't start without using the choke. When it warms up, smoking stops or is at least not appearent to me. When it is warm and started there is no smoke. If I remember correctly it started smoking a little bit before mechanic adjusted the carb.
ATV would stall out when climbing hills. Man drilled out something and adjusted the mixture screw 3 turns out. Now I can kill everything within 5 acres with the smoke I create.
I have noticed oil and gas dripping from the rubber adapter where the carb hooks to filter box and there is some oil in the bottom of the box. Do ATV's have a PCV valve or something that would cause oil to be pushed up into carb.? Crankcase oil level is OK.
Within the last 2 years, mechanic has replaced cylinder, piston, rings, cam shaft, cam shaft chain and gear, valve guides. 1.5k in expenses and it still not right.
Does any one have any ideas?