In tubular magazine .30-30's, you've got the flat nose of the round resting against the head of the cartridge in front of it. I would assume the crimp prevents bullet setback from the recoil, yes. Just like a good strong crimp in box-fed autoloaders...

Forgot to mention, if you have a single-shot or bolt-action .30-30, you can avoid using a serious crimp in your rounds. Then again, you can choose more aerodynamic bullets, too. My wife shoots Nosler Ballistic Tips in her .30-30 bolt action Savage 340.

G98 -I think it also depends on your dies' tolerances and the brass neck-thickness and the weight and velocity of your bullets too.
Using up to 150gn no crimp atall is required for my Winchester M94- but on thin 'Super' brass I have had 'telescoping' problems. [The case of the disappearing bullet!!]

Strangely at 75m ,no decrease in accuracy was noted, but the Winch I have does have a long leade and I was only shooting at a pig sized target.

Incidentally.....and controversially...Pointed Bullets CAN also be used in tube magazines - as long as there is a good big exposed lead tip on them. The shells actually zig-zag in the magazine, but to be really sure try wearing eye/ear and hand protection and try and use one of your lead tips to ignite a seated live primer in a case in a vice, using a tong/pincers and a hammer.

Yes - I was an unbeliever too...until I tried to do it and failed!They simply would not ignite with a such a "soft"blow.Try it and see yourselves....

I now for 5 years shoot very accurate 125rn Sierra 30/30 pointed lead tipped jacketed and RNose lead M1 carbine (in a 30/30) - in rapid-fire L/A target matches @ 2,250 FPS .Accuracy seems unaffected by the deformed tip up to 100m, which is the furthest we shoot with buckhorn open sights.

(B...U...T I would lay off the old 30cal FMJs though ...as that could cause a real chainfire KaBoom)

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