I was moving 60-65, have bleed system several times. car was running hot, so I changed the T stat, no change, flushed the complete system, and bleed 6 times or so. had a cheapy pressure cap on it and it was boiling over after i would shut it off, so I bought a gm cap and put on today, then drove 33 miles home( highway). quit boiling over but temp runs where it is in pic after 20 miles or so, could it be plugged rad. just started doing this Monday

You may still have some trapped air from the bad cap and the Tstat R&R. Warm it up, shut it off, let it sit a couple minutes, then pop open the bleeder screw.

Also, with the car running, disconnect the ECT sensor at the water pump to check your fans. Both should come on within 10 seconds or so, and both should move enough air to push firmly against your hand. If not, you've got a bad fan motor or relay.

Yeah it certainly seems like it's running warm if you're seeing that temperature while driving.

I've installed a mechanical gauge in the cylinder head, and the F-Body 3 wire sender in the water pump. I can tell you that with both thermostats I've tried (160' & 180'), the operating temperature typically runs 12'-14' hotter than the thermostat rating temperature.

The gauge was showing almost that high when I got out to my dads shop earlier, and I raised it up on the lift to take off starter(it has been draging when hot for awhile now) I forgot to read the temp with the IR thermometer as soon as I shut it off, so it was about 10 min. after I shut it off and it 190* at the sensor on front of the wp, could my gauge be reading higher that it should? I'll have to wait till I get the starter back on to test the gauge with IR thermometer. It has quit bubbling and over flowing with the new cap. I also bled some more air out after I shut it off earlier.