The aroma and taste of a cup of perfectly roasted coffee - made by a young tradie who spends the first half of his day building houses.

Callum Benda is a carpenter by trade but has developed his passion for coffee to become a boutique roaster.

After a busy day on the tools he retreats to a small coffee roasting house that he built in his backyard and tinkers with roast profiles and blends.

It's a sideline interest that keeps him motivated and provides variety from his regular job.

"I love building but if the time comes when I can make a career out of my passion then that would be great," he said.

Callum and his partner Lauren Scott live at Renmark in the Riverland of South Australia.

They have converted the town's historic fire station into a home and Callum put his building skills to good use to erect a roasting house.

The building hums with a life of its own thanks to the impressive fire-engine-red roaster taking pride of place in the corner.

The art of coffee roasting comes from transforming flavourless and odourless green beans into the pungent brew that awakens the senses of its global followers.

Roasting creates the colour, aroma and taste and it is far from a precise science, despite hours under the tutelage of long-time Adelaide Central Market master roaster Basil Papas.

"You can learn the basics of roasting and the science behind it and how to use the machine, but because you're getting different green beans in every year, and the crops from year to year can change depending on the climate in that region, you're always tinkering with your machine," Callum said.

As the Riverland's only coffee roaster, Callum is part of a growing range of boutique products transforming the region away from its image as a bulk producer of food and wine.

He is a regular at the Riverland Farmers Market and loves to share the story of the different coffee flavours.

Press play to share Callum's coffee journey.

With thanks to ABC Open producer Daniel Schmidt for technical and editing support. Background music is Right Place, Right Time played by Australian guitarist Michael Fix.