Maybe it's me but a max 4 doesn't seem to be God's gift to steep down hill desent.The geometry seems all wrong, driver over front 26''tires,base of motor about shoulder high when desending.I pull back sticks to slow and apply a little throttle to engage drive belt as to not freewheel and false steer.Should I apply the park brake maybe 2 clicks to create a drag before desent?I rather wear brakes than smoke my t-20 bands.Some times I feel like a cowboy in an old western on a run away buck board.I was behind a max when it stood up 90 degrees, the only thing that kept the folks from tea-kettling was the winch mouted on the front which slowed it down enough for the driver to gain control.Some people already told me I was just going down hill intermittently on my front wheels only!

maybe someone with the time and cash could expirement on hydralic brakes, we have the left laterel free for a master cylinder like on motorcycle or quad. and there must be some points in drive train where we can grab a disc, my choices would even include sprokets as disc's, hell why not, there are alot of miny calipers already wide spred in ap's from snowmobiles to quads so used parts for expirementation should make this posable. another point :who says it has to be one caliper to a side? if we find three spots per side for calipers we would have bocou brakeing power to add to arsenal of decent tools, the left laterel is faster to the brake then the left foot serching for an eluseve tiny weany parking brake petal, and time between saying :ooh shit and brake aplication is critical on them suprize slopes! being able to switch from any of three brake systems during decents may help eleviate heating the brakes up as well. one poor bastered at olean had to be lowered down a hill by winch cable from machine behind it. if manufacturers wont do the R&D work then we should.

Dennis, I guess it all depends on how fast you want to go downhill. Personally, I like to go down the steep stuff slowly so anything over 20 degrees or so, I ride the tranny brakes. I have them partially engaged and go down about 5 MPH or less (sometimes, much less, inching down). You have to have smooth steady hands to be able to operate a max with partially engaged tranny bands.

Yes, you have to reverse steer and it is a workout for the arms, but the tranny bands can take it. I rest my elbows on my upper thighs if I'm straddle the laterals and it is a long down hill. If you are on one side or the other, it is a little harder to keep them steady. It is important to not set your brakes completely or release them completely as that will cause you to bounce. If you start to bounce, slow up enough to get control or stop to regain your composure.

It takes a while to get the hang of going downhill (it is the same principle as making wide smooth turns or keeping all six wheels driving while making turns going uphill (one or more bands partially engaged).

I also don't think the design or the center of gravity is a problem in a Max IV. Remember, you have the engine at the back of the machine to offset your weight and you can get in the back seat and drive if it is really steep. Once one learns how to drive a max and has a few hours behind the sticks, the confidence level rises and one soon has to conquer the "over confidence" problem. Every now and then, I catch myself going some places that not even a Max should go.

Thanks Guys, but the braking systems seem to be adequate, I like simple.Fred I'm doing as you described,but tend to loose a little sensitivty when a unseen rut or a slow or stopped machine is in front of me.Tightening up on the brakes to react and that when the bouncing starts,I just figured if I started with a little drag I wouldn't have to work the sticks that much.Thanks for the complement, me weighing about the same as kohler 25 & a T-20 even with 5 gals of gas in front of me.

Fred Thanks for the confirmations on the T-20's ability and the heat build up on the brakes.I'd rather spend time here talking about it than in my garage changing out rotors.I think I'll run 10psi in my front tires as to compensate for the down hill weight transfer.This might eliminate a lot of side wall squash and get rid of that re-coil bounce.I used to have to run 10psi before using the improved 12'' rims with bead lock and my body lived thru it.

I have always used my foot brake on my Attex's to maintain desired speed downhill and use the laterals for steering. I know the Max IV foot brake is not in the best position , but I have seen it used going down hill. I know when the laterals start bouncing it gets scary real fast.

Fred Thanks for the confirmations on the T-20's ability and the heat build up on the brakes.I'd rather spend time here talking about it than in my garage changing out rotors.I think I'll run 10psi in my front tires as to compensate for the down hill weight transfer.This might eliminate a lot of side wall squash and get rid of that re-coil bounce.I used to have to run 10psi before using the improved 12'' rims with bead lock and my body lived thru it.

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