I went to bike week in Daytona this week and rode about 1,000 miles. Had some oil usage ( R1200RT has about 3,000 miles on it). I did not have any BMW oil and no where to get any--I used Vol. 20w50 conventional. What have you been doing in this situation and what oil is best when BMW Oil is not available? The closest BMW Shop to me is a 3 hr. ride.
Thanks

First, on a new BMW, higher oil consumption is normal until break-in is fairly complete.

My bike reached that point at about 18k miles. Factory mantra is one quart per 1,000 is "normal".

BMW oil is just, basically-oil. Probably synthetic... which is not magical, not refined with gold additive as you might suspect, and in no way is required.

If it were a real pinch, like being below the sight glass, you can add any liquid known as "oil". (Try to avoid Extra Virgin Olive Oil).

Factory and dealers will tell you to use only full synthetic. (it is thought that those who labor at dealers have been hypnotized to believe this is the only possible answer.) Many of us switched to conventional formulations until break-in was complete, only then to full synthetic.

AS LONG AS YOU USE AN OIL WITH THE SAME SAE SPECIFICATIONS AS PUBLISHED IN YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL YOU WILL BE FINE.

I think that would give your exhaust an interesting and very unique aroma.

hopz is dead right, and as your engine is still breaking in, then regular dino oil is the best you could have used. This side of the pond, that seems to be the recommendation from dealers, you can switch to semi-syn or fully-syn after break in is complete.

I you read the owner's manual, it says NOT to use synthetic for the first 6K miles/10K Km. As far as using oil at a quart per 1000 miles, my bike must be the exception. It's hardly used any in 800 miles.

Engine oils of API classification SF or better.
Engine oils of ACEA classification A2 or better.
BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic
oils for the first 10,000 km. Please do not
hesitate to contact your authorised BMW
Motorrad dealer if you have any questions relating
the choice of a suitable engine oil for your
motorcycle.

Yep i had my 2005 LT serviced at CW in Dorchester last August,and they used Castrol Act>Evo 20W-50. ( recommended by BMW also in the RT's) I paid £9.00 a litre then, tho i note that its £10.73 a litre there now. Darren Studley just down the road charges £8.80 a litre with only £35.00 hr labour. Pays your money takes your choice, i know where i am going to have my bike serviced now.

FWIW, my local dealer (Iron Horse Motorcycles in Tucson) told me to use Castrol Actevo X-TRA 4T. This is a part synthetic SAE 10W-40 oil. That's what they use in the BMW they sell new so that is what I've been using too. My RT has used about 3/4 quart in the 2000 miles I've put on it so far.

******. Just wanted to see if it worked. Still banned? Grow up guys....
I use any synthetic motorcycle oil that I can find (like at a auction) 15w-50. At $3 a qt it will do. I have almost 18k on my RT. In a pinch, any oil is better then none. Even in the differential!

Since we have apparently not been able to resist, and now we have a full-blown OIL THREAD... I will mention.

"Motorcycle Oil" is a product brought to the market in response to the huge numbers of air-cooled V-Twin engines on the roads... of many different brands. Those bikes need certain additives that the BMW does not need... not that it is bad, you just don't need it... nor do you need to pay for it either. In other words, no need to look for and buy "Motorcycle Oil".

BMW oil, depending on where you live, is very likely re-branded Castrol, packaged and sold at a huge price premium over a similar oil available at mass retailers everywhere.

During break in a good "dino" oil is not only good but maybe better than full synthetic. After break in a quality full-synthetic will give good service... but , (there is a BIG but in here)...

The main advantage of a full synthetic is its LONG life. If you change the oil in your bike every 5-6k then you are throwing away money that is better spent on farkles and good drink.

and... for Ponch... BMW did not say that one quart per 1000 miles is normal, just that that is the number, beyond which they might start to begin to get concerned. In other words... don't bother us with a warranty claim unless the usage is more then a quart per 1000 miles.

I repeat, any oil meeting the book's (SAE) specifications will do the job.

Also for Ponch and others with the new engine: My 2010 RT has about 11K miles in the last 9 months. I used Dino to 6K to get everything properly "scuffed in" as my airplane mechanic friend calls it. Switched to synthetic at the recommended 6K. Still no oil consumption. Rides are usually 20% local, and 80% mountain and desert. The speedometer needle is used to 90-95 mph on desert roads, and the gearbox gets "worked" in the mountains-----in other words it is not babied. I am told by several folks this engine was properly (and still going through) a good break-in which is why it has no constant need to replenish the oil supply. I'm beginning to believe it myself.

I need a new manual, mine notes 2 quarts in 1000 miles as oil consumption, 09RT
That's quite the buffer you have there BMW
If this could be true the OP would need 2 quarts on his 1000 mile trip.
Not saying it's right, just what my manual has printed in it.

I think there is information left out here. "motorcycle" oils in general have additional amounts of high pressure additives currently left out of "automobile" oils. In addition there are specs for oils that have a clutch bathed by the oil such as in our K bikes. The 15W40 and 5W40 diesel oils are good because they generally fall in the "motorcycle" zone of high pressure protection. Much of the zinc based additive package that benefits motorcycles is now reduced in favor of catalytic converter protection. There are plenty of acceptable oils out there. Trying to save money while riding your $20,000.00 bike by using aftermarket filters and possibly inappropriate oil seems fool hardy. Also, diesel oils are exempt from the rules that regulate additives for automobile oils, this allows them to be different. I do not know where "motorcycle" fit into this legislative action but they do have different packages from auto oils.
There, that should keep the thread alive.

Over at one of the (other) well-respected BMW forum sites there is a long and detailed post by a guy who worked at one of the big oil filter manufacturers. His comments, in short are that engine designers specify particulate size that can passthe oil filter, and that, along with other parameters are worked into the branded filters sold by the dealers in question.

Using an oil filter that is supposedly high-flow, or one that "enhances performance" or one that is available for $3.00 at Wally World is just a flat out misunderstanding what an oil filter is supposed to do.

I may use Mobil One 15W/50 from Wal-Mart but you can be darn sure I use a BMW branded oil filter.

Yes, it is pretty interesting to take oil filters of different brands, especially some of the common ones from auto parts stores and are specified to fit the same application and cut them open. I use to fight with my employeer about this with diesel filters. We had over 100 diesel engines of various sizes and brands and they wanted to run a contract with cheap filters. The bill was huge to use OEM filters at the recommended interval. Which is what the International Maritime codes now require for US vessels. (ISM) What a waste of money that was. Didn't take long to go back to OEM filters. There has to be a good company that makes filters for OEM use that sells on the side like Maule but I don't know them. I use stock filters even on my cars. (I use mobile 1 20W50 in my RT) I don't ride below 32*F very often.

Very cool, it is fun to get everyone's opinion. And then there are always the new guys. As a diesel mechanic I have tons of fun oil stories. I once was on a boat that the Chief had not changed the oil in the main engines for 6 years. (2 cycle Fairbanks Morris). The stuff was like printers ink, thick and black as night. Only make up oil was added. Finally when a new chief came on we went for it. Took overhead chainfalls to pull the filters out of the filter can. So change your oil as per your PM schedule!

If you use branded oil and filters like I do (relatively cheap insurance on a $20K+ bike, and I have one less specification to worry about) look at it this way - every 6000 miles you have a perfect opportunity to tell your SO that you're going to the dealer for supplies to help you save money over letting the shop change your oil. And if you're lucky when you get to the shop there will be some new goodies in stock that you just have to have (and put onto the tag with the oil and filter). And you get the opportunity to exercise your creativity telling said SO why four quarts of oil and a filter resulted in a $327 Visa charge (oh, yeah, it was that damn crush washer I forgot I needed ...).

Having said that - is $9 a quart for BMW oil, and $25 for a filter, outrageous? You bet. They do it because they can. That's what BMW means - bring more wallet. But if you compare your 45 mpg motorcycle against a 20 mpg car at $3.75/gallon, you've paid for that oil and filter with fuel savings in about 600 miles. And had a lot more fun getting there!

I know we've kind of strayed here form the original question, but feel compelled to add my $.02. I wasn't much of a believer in the seemingly long break in period over which oil consumption settles down. I assumed these stories were simply all old fart hooey... But now with 16,000 on my 2010 RT I am finally a believer. Up till ~12,000 my bike roughly burned anywhere from 250 ml to a liter every 2000-3000 miles or so. After the 12,000 mile mark my bike essentially stopped burning oil. OK, honestly, it consumed 50-100 ml in the 4000 miles from 12K-16K... but come on... that's virtually nothing!

AT 6000 miles I switched to the BMW 5w20 full synthetic. If am out I top up with the same weight of Mobil 1.

I know we've kind of strayed here form the original question, but feel compelled to add my $.02. I wasn't much of a believer in the seemingly long break in period over which oil consumption settles down. I assumed these stories were simply all old fart hooey... But now with 16,000 on my 2010 RT I am finally a believer. Up till ~12,000 my bike roughly burned anywhere from 250 ml to a liter every 2000-3000 miles or so. After the 12,000 mile mark my bike essentially stopped burning oil. OK, honestly, it consumed 50-100 ml in the 4000 miles from 12K-16K... but come on... that's virtually nothing!

AT 6000 miles I switched to the BMW 5w20 full synthetic. If am out I top up with the same weight of Mobil 1.

Over at one of the (other) well-respected BMW forum sites there is a long and detailed post by a guy who worked at one of the big oil filter manufacturers. His comments, in short are that engine designers specify particulate size that can passthe oil filter, and that, along with other parameters are worked into the branded filters sold by the dealers in question.

Using an oil filter that is supposedly high-flow, or one that "enhances performance" or one that is available for $3.00 at Wally World is just a flat out misunderstanding what an oil filter is supposed to do.

I may use Mobil One 15W/50 from Wal-Mart but you can be darn sure I use a BMW branded oil filter.

So there....

+ 1 on that. Also, remember, some oil is better than no oil, and clean oil is better than dirty oil.

Another success story, and Jay Jay, my dealer takes his pieces of gold for the stuff but I do get a free cup of coffee!

Well, on Saturdays mine even has fat bombs (aka doughnuts) too!

And I didn't mean to dump on the dealers. I suspect that the prices dealers charge for parts are "suggested" by BMWNA and in any event encouraged by high distributor costs. The dealers are trying to make a living just like the rest of us schmucks. I've found some very reasonably priced non-BMW branded stuff at my dealer, like clothing - manufacturer's suggested at max, and often on sale.

BMW does not make oil filters (Mahle and Mann make theirs)
BMW does not own an oil refinery
BMW does not manufacture tires
etc., etc.

I have paid $24 for a filter for the last time.

But that is just me.

Ride safely

Terry

$24.00 for a filter? Man, you are getting ripped off. The last filter I got from MAX BMW in NH, I paid $14.57 with the washer. And, Max BMW is not known as a discount outlet.
I checked out the on line prices from beemerboneyard and even buying the 4 pack of Mann filters, with the shipping, they were more $$$$$.
Plus, the free coffee and the eye candy in the showroom!

Gaby, yes your on to it. Motorcycle blends allow for clutch use when it is bathed in the engine oil. Also you have the issue of the transmission which needs some high pressure additives. And your non roller cam followers benefit from these additives. ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate), is the additive removed (by law) from auto blends to promote longer life of the catalytic converters. This is the chemical meant when someone says "zinc" in an oil. Plenty to read if you dive into the web. This is why BMW said for years after the SAE ratings moved on from SG to continue to use SG not the newer blends. And The diesel designated oils such as 15W40 and 5W40 still have additive packages that reflect days gone by for the auto oils. Every motorcycle shop caries all the good brands of moto oil. Even the big players like Mobil 1 and Castrol have exceptional motorcycle oils available at weights for all types of bikes. My RT uses a little heaver oil that my K13S. Then I have to play the game and buy the specific oil VW has out now for their diesel. Lucky it is not 12 bucks a quart. It is all interesting. If I use a dyno oil I change at 3000 miles, if I use a "synthetic" oil I change at 6000 miles. And I don't go whaco on the road if I need a top off I use whatever is close.

******. Just wanted to see if it worked. Still banned? Grow up guys....
I use any synthetic motorcycle oil that I can find (like at a auction) 15w-50. At $3 a qt it will do. I have almost 18k on my RT. In a pinch, any oil is better then none. Even in the differential!

Over at one of the (other) well-respected BMW forum sites there is a long and detailed post by a guy who worked at one of the big oil filter manufacturers. His comments, in short are that engine designers specify particulate size that can passthe oil filter, and that, along with other parameters are worked into the branded filters sold by the dealers in question.

Using an oil filter that is supposedly high-flow, or one that "enhances performance" or one that is available for $3.00 at Wally World is just a flat out misunderstanding what an oil filter is supposed to do.

I may use Mobil One 15W/50 from Wal-Mart but you can be darn sure I use a BMW branded oil filter.

Rubbish. There are mobil 1 motorcycle oils. I used the 10w-40 mobile 1 motorcycle oil in my nomad and vulcan 800 without incident.

Ponch, you obviously didnt read the thread from "hopz" that I was referring to and quoted.

[I]"Motorcycle Oil" is a product brought to the market in response to the huge numbers of air-cooled V-Twin engines on the roads... of many different brands. Those bikes need certain additives that the BMW does not need... not that it is bad, you just don't need it... nor do you need to pay for it either. In other words, no need to look for and buy "Motorcycle Oil."I may use Mobil One 15W/50 from Wal-Mart but you can be darn sure I use a BMW branded oil filter

Your reference is to Mobil 1 MOTORCYCLE oil!!

Regular Mobil 1 is fine in a bike with a dry clutch, just dont try using it in a bike with a wet clutch.

Hopz, good stuff for extended interval machines....trucks, fleets, etc, but
it's not ester based and doesn't have nearly the antiwear/pressure additives.

I used to use it and have done many UOAs from built HD engines. ****** is
hard to beat in most watercooled non high performance engines, but doesn't hold
up nearly as well in high compression, high heat applications. I'ts mostly
highly refined hydro-cracked petroleum which they call "synthetic" and it's
certainly one of the best semi-synthetics, but it's not a true synthetic

I'm not badmouthing the stuff, but it's not ester and will never perform like ester.

Have you ever wondered why all their self-produced and published comparison
"papers" don't include Redline? When they state that their base oil is ester and
exactly what is in the add-pack, and it's as good as Redline I'll compare
it again.

So are Lucas Oil, A_msoil, and Mobil 1 better, or is it jut good marketing?

Do you run your BMW's out to 6000miles on a oil change or do you do a oil change between the service interval?

If you change your oil every 3000 miles are standard petroleum oils good enough.

Don't know about it yet as I only have 1100 miles on the bike. I'll probably change the oil some time after 3K just because and again after 6k. At that point I'll go to a synthetic, probably Mobil 1. ****** is a lot harder to find, but either is good stuff. As far as Lucas goes, I don't know anything about it, so I wouldn't use it.

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