It is divided by many fjords and mountain ranges, into many beautiful regions.

Eyjafjörður

Within the bay of Eyjafjörður is the Capital of the North, Akureyri, a town of 17,000 inhabitants. It is the largest settlement outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area.

It is easy to reach via the Ring Road, and many cruise ships land in the port of the town.

The older part of Akureyri is particularly worth a stroll, with many historic buildings. The town is also home to many interesting museums, galleries, and the world’s northernmost botanical gardens.

If you like skiing or snowboarding, one of the best skiing sites in the country is located nearby.

Siglufjörður

Siglufjörður straddles the border of Eyjafjörður and Skagafjörður, and is most famously home to a charming settlement of the same name.

Other than its natural beauty, with huge cliffs bordering the town, Siglufjörður is renowned for its fascinating museums.

There is a folk music museum, which comes alive during an annual festival, and the Herring Era Museum. This is the only Icelandic museum to win an international award and is much more interesting than it sounds; it explains how Iceland managed to survive a millennium in such harsh climes by relying on the seas.

The Vatnsnes Peninsula

The Vatnsnes Peninsula gets its fame for two reasons. Firstly, it is the best seal-watching location in the whole country, with colonies hauling out throughout the year. In the town of Hvammstangi, you can visit the Icelandic Seal Centre to learn more about these animals.

It is also famous for hosting the coastal rock formation of Hvítserkur. This bizarre feature is said to be a troll frozen in the light of the morning sun, but to most, appears to be more like an elephant drinking.

Þingeyjarsýsla

Þingeyjarsýsla county is home to many incredible sites, particularly due to the fact that the Lake Mývatn region is nestled within it. This beautiful area is renowned for its lava formations, pseudocraters and rich birdlife.

Near Mývatn is the impressive lava field Dimmuborgir, which featured in the Game of Thrones series. There is also the incredible waterfall Goðafoss, a beautiful feature between the lakes and Akureyri.

Husavík is a nearby town, considered the whale watching capital of Europe. In summer, many operators see Humpback Whales every time they leave the port.

Grimsey

Far north, straddling the Arctic Circle is Grímsey island, the northernmost inhabited territory of Iceland, with a population of about 100 people. It is renowned for its fishing, its rich vegetation and birdlife, particularly puffins.

Mývatn is a beautiful lake with many small islands in the north of Iceland, the fourth largest lake in the country. Due to its serenity, birdlife and volcanism, the lake, including its surrounding area, is one of the most amazing natural attractions in the country.

Mývatn is, in fact, so beautiful that is was used as a site in the Game of Thrones franchise. In mid-winter it was used to represent the lands North of the Wall, namely Mance Raider’s Wildling camp.

Geology

Mývatn sits about an incredibly active geothermal area, giving it a unique and beautiful geology. After all, it is close to sites such as Krafla caldera, which contains the notorious Víti volcano, the name of which translates to ‘hell’.

Many of the islands here are thus pseudocraters, formed by steam explosions as magma rose beneath pockets of water, and many are bizarre basalt columns, rising vertically from the surface, formed by rapid cooling after an eruption.

The high amount of geothermal activity beneath Mývatn, of course, presents the opportunity for bathing in naturally heated waters. This is best done at the Mývatn Nature Baths, a beautiful establishment with serene waters, incredible views, and a reasonable entry fee.

Wildlife

Mývatn has some of the best bird-watching available in Iceland, although those seeking puffins will need to be at coastal cliffs such as those at Látrabjarg and Dyrhólaey, between May and September.

In fact, Mývatn has more species of duck than anywhere else in the world, with thirteen nesting species and many more visitors. Most popular (and common) amongst these is the harlequin duck sometimes referred to as the white-eyed diver after their unique white markings.

Mývatn’s surrounding vegetation and plentiful food make it a happy home for voles, mice and rats that have spread all over Iceland, providing tasty treats for Iceland’s only native land mammal, the Arctic Fox. Visitors, however, will have to keep a close eye out for these, as they are experts in camouflage.

In terms of flora, the most interesting plant life at Mývatn actually exists just beneath the surface of the water. Marimo are ‘moss balls’, bizarre spheres of fluffy green algae that are found in very few other places around the world, namely Japan (where they got their name), Scotland, Estonia and Australia.

Surrounding sites

Visitors to Mývatn often wish to spend more than just a single day exploring its many surrounding locations. Primary amongst these is Dimmuborgir, a lava field which truly reflects the dramatic consequences of a volcanism in Iceland. This area is steeped in folklore and is home to the thirteen ‘Santas’ of Iceland, the Yule Lads.

It was also here that many of the Game of Thrones scenes were shot such as Mance Rayder's wildling camp at Dimmuborgir and Grjótagjá cave, where Jon and Ygritte shared an evening together. Though this site can be admired from the shore, the water temperature is not monitored and can heat up very quickly, so visitors are asked not to take a dip.

Those with an interest in Iceland’s strange geothermal and geological sites should also check out the Skútustadagígar pseudo-craters and the aforementioned Víti crater and its surrounding lava field. There are also several geothermal hot spots around Krafla and the Námaskarð Pass which is a fascinating and primordial place.

Lake Mývatn is located on the Ring Road that fully encircles the country, making further sites easily reachable. To the west is the ‘Capital of the North’, Akureyri, a charming town with the highest population outside of the capital area.

To the east, you can find the largest waterfall in Iceland, Dettifoss which also happens to be the most powerful waterfall in Europe, and the incredible horseshoe-shaped canyon, Ásbyrgi. This feature was said to have formed by the stomping of one of the feet of Oðinn’s eight-legged horse as it leapt through the sky.

Dimmuborgir, or the Black Fortress, is a dramatic expanse of lava in the Lake Mývatn area. Steeped with folklore, it is one of the most popular destinations for travellers to north Iceland.

Geology of Dimmuborgir

Dimmuborgir was formed in an eruption that occurred in the area 2,300 years ago; the Lake Mývatn area is highly volcanic, as can be further seen in nearby locations such as the geothermal Namaskarð Pass, the hot spring cave Grjótagjá, and the dramatic Krafla fissure.

As lava flowed across the area, it passed over a lake, causing it to boil. This both quickened the cooling of the lava, and caused pillars of steam to shatter parts of it. The result, after it solidified, the area became defined by large stacks of rock and many caves and caverns, caused by bubbles of intense steam.

As such, many have compared Dimmuborgir to a medieval castle, with its many hidden chambers and its rising towers.

Folklore of Dimmuborgir

In Icelandic culture, lava caves are allegedly the homes of the nation’s brutal and vile trolls. The most famous of these were the half-troll, half-ogre Grýla and her submissive husband Leppalúði. Grýla was renowned for her insatiable appetite for children, and her gigantic pet cat, that would eat children over the Christmas period for not getting any clothes (encouraging kids to finish their weaving, knitting and sewing chores before the season set in).

Grýla and Leppalúði had thirteen sons who lived in Dimmuborgir, and are now known as the ‘Icelandic Santa Clauses’. On the thirteen nights before Christmas, these trolls come one by one to terrorise Icelanders, each with their own strategy after which they were named.

Sheep-Colt Clod, for example, would harass livestock; Skyr-Gobbler would steal and lick the houses supplies of yoghurt; and Window-Peeper would stare into houses, looking for things to burgle.

Like most frightening Icelandic stories, the Yule Lads were most likely created to keep children from going out into the cold Icelandic winter nights, where many disappeared without a trace for centuries. As the nation modernised, they became mischievous tricksters rather than devilish monsters. Now, they have been ‘Americanised’, and rather than traditional Icelandic garb, wear Santa costumes.

Due to Iceland’s remoteness and fondness for storytelling, the nation developed many unusual Christmas traditions that can be read about on this site.

During the Christianisation of Iceland, Dimmuborgir developed a new set of tales. Many began to believe, due to its starkness, that it was where Satan landed when cast from heaven, and where he created the catacombs to hell.

Dimmuborgir in pop culture

Dimmuborgir recently saw a surge in popularity, as it was featured on HBO’s Game of Thrones. In the series, it is where Mance Raider held his wildling army. It was shot here in winter.

Goðafoss waterfall is located in the river Skjálfandafljót in north Iceland, the fourth largest river in Iceland. It is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the country, falling from a height of 12 metres (39 feet) over a width of 30 metres (98 feet).

History of Goðafoss

The name Goðafoss means either waterfall of the gods or waterfall of the 'goði' (i.e. priest/ chieftain). The reason for this is its fascinating history.

When Iceland was first settled in the 9th and 10th Centuries, the vast majority (who were not slaves, at least) were Norwegians who followed the Old Norse religion, worshipping deities like Thor, Odin, Loki and Freya. However, after the Commonwealth was established in 930 AD, pressure to convert began to push from Christianising Europe.

By 1000 AD, it seemed that Norway would almost certainly invade if the country were to stand by their pagan beliefs. The issue was thus discussed at Þingvellir, where the parliament met once a year. The lawspeaker at the time, the Asatru priest Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði, was given the responsibility to make the decision.

It is said he sat beneath a birch for a day and a night in silence, praying to his Old Gods for the right decision. Eventually, he emerged and said, for the good of the people, Christianity would be the official religion, but pagans could practice in private (something that really would not be able to happen until the twentieth century).

To symbolise his decision, he returned to his home in north Iceland, and threw idols of the Old Gods into a beautiful waterfall. Since then, it would be known as Goðafoss.

Mývatn is a beautiful lake, filled with a wealth of birdlife, renowned for it incredible surroundings, which include fortresses and of lava, geothermal areas, craters and basalt pillars. Dettifoss is another waterfall, and though it does not have the history of Goðafoss, it has much more power; it, in fact, is the most powerful waterfall in Europe.

Ásbyrgi Canyon, meanwhile, is also linked to the Old Norse Gods. Its perfect horseshoe shape was said to have been created by the stomping of one of the hoofs of the eight-legged steed of Odin. The final destination on the Diamond Circle is Húsavík, the best place for whale-watching in Iceland.

Outside of the Diamond Circle, Goðafoss, is easily reached by travelling for 45 minutes east by car from the capital of the north, Akureyri.

This is the largest settlement outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area, and is a perfect place to stay for those travelling the circle around the country. It is a renowned cultural centre, with many museums, galleries and the world’s northernmost botanical gardens. Many tours depart from here.

Goðafoss can be reached throughout the year, although drivers in winter will want to be sure that they rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Grjótagjá is a small lava cave located near lake Mývatn in north Iceland, famous for featuring a beautiful geothermal hot spring in its depths.

History of Grjótagjá

Grjótagjá’s known history begins in the early 18th Century, where it was known to be the home of outlaw Jón Markússon. Throughout Iceland’s history, their icy, jagged rocks, total darkness and reputation for trolls meant law-abiding folk avoided Iceland’s lava caves, making them the perfect spots for bandits who had been ostracised from Icelandic society by the parliament.

Little is known about Jón, but after his death, fears of his cave gave way to excitement at its potential. It was used by locals as a hot spring in the decades that followed until the 1970s, when Iceland’s unpredictable geothermal forces prevented them from doing so.

From 1975 to 1984, the Krafla volcanic system erupted nine times, resulting in (to say nothing of new expanses of lava, the creation of new caves and magma chambers and the release of toxic gases) the water’s caves to boil and make it unusable.

After 1984, the temperature has slowly cooled, but has been known to rapidly heat again; in the surrounding area, liquid rock is just two kilometres (just over a mile) under the surface of the earth, meaning it can be very unpredictable.

As such, bathing is no longer allowed in Grjótagjá. You are welcome, however, to at least feel the water and dip your feet in to relax.

The lava cave and hot spring, however, have such an ethereal, otherworldly beauty that they attract many visitors a year. This unique, fantastical appeal, did not go unnoticed by producers; HBO’s Game of Thrones even shot one of the season’s most iconic scenes here.

In Season Three, Episode Four, Grjótagjá is used as the setting for the much anticipated love scene between Jon Snow and the wildling woman Ygritte, where Jon Snow ‘proves’ his abandonment of the Night’s Watch by consummating their relationship.

In the televised version of the cave, there is a waterfall added with CGI, but otherwise, Grjótagjá is as it appears in reality.

Grjótagjá is far from the only place in Iceland used to build up the world of Westeros; in fact, it is not even the only one in the local area. Also in the Lake Mývatn area is the lava fortress of Dimmuborgir; in midwinter, this dramatic area was used to reflect the wildling camp of Mance Raider throughout Seasons Two and Three.

Getting to Grjótagjá

Grjótagjá is located conveniently in the Mývatn area, which is part of the most popular sightseeing route of north Iceland, the Diamond Circle, and on the Ring Road that encircles the country.

Reaching it and getting to the hot spring, however, requires a reasonable level of fitness and a little sense of adventure. There is a slightly rocky path that takes you from Dimmuborgir to the cave itself, which you will need to be careful descending into; lava caves are very jagged, and the ground is uneven.

There are car parking spaces beside Grjótagjá if you do not want to take the short hike.

The Namafjall geothermal field is located in Northeast Iceland, on the east side of Lake Myvatn.

At this area, also known as Hverir, you may see many solfataras and boiling mud pots, surrounded by sulfur crystals of many different colours. The area is quite smelly but something one gets used to after a while. The soil in the area has little growth and is sour due to erosion and the sulfur from the atmosphere. Indeed, the old rock-covered boreholes in the area give off a lot of hot steam, so we advise caution.

Around the area is a small hiking trail up to Namaskard pass and Namafjall mountain, returning to the highway and the parking lot.

Historically sulfur would be much sought after in the area. The same is true of the geothermal power. In 1969 a power plant was built west of the mountain, at Bjarnarflag, by the Laxa Power Company. This company later merged with Landsvirkjun. The plant currently produces 3MW of geothermal energy.

Concerns have raised over current plans to expand the plant to 90 MW. In particular there have been worries as regards the effect of the plant on the ecosystem of Lake Myvatn. The head of the environmental NGO Landvernd has recently called for a new environmental impact assesment. The matter continues to be debated.

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