I don't putt with my Neutron Anode unless I need a shot to go up and drop fast. It's a better driver than my other Anodes though...has more HSS and is faster. It can be thrown on more of a low line drive than my other Anodes and is owning the gap between my soft Anodes and my mids. One thing I did notice is that my 175 N Anode flies kind of like a brick...When really powered it flies awesome, but anything under about 280' and it's a brick. The one I've been using the most is a 172.5g and is domier than my heavy one as well. I also have a 170 that drives great as well, glides so much it's almost hard to range (which is why I've bagged the slightly heavier one).

I decided the other day that I need a broken in soft Anode so I took one of my flat 173s (which were already less stable to begin with) and threw some hockey puck shots on my road and then did some 360s with it right in front of a stone wall. After the treatment I rubbed it down with a microfiber to smooth it back out. It didn't make it understable exactly, but it is much less stable than it was and has some nice and slow high speed turn when powered and it incredibly straight on approach shots.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

The trouble with ordering online is that i can't pick the flattest i can find. Based on the description of discspeed flat high shoulder ones are the ones for my preferences. So far his experiences have been so close to mine except he throws harder that i've been able to rely on them for disc selection so i feel confident in wanting to try the flat ones first.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

JR wrote:The trouble with ordering online is that i can't pick the flattest i can find. Based on the description of discspeed flat high shoulder ones are the ones for my preferences. So far his experiences have been so close to mine except he throws harder that i've been able to rely on them for disc selection so i feel confident in wanting to try the flat ones first.

Someone shared with me a trick that works like a charm.

Boild 3 cups of water, put your Neutron disc upside down (on a flat level surface) and fill it with the boiling water. DO NOT add weight on top.

THis method seems to resettle the plastic to a normal, more intended flat dome.

I have done this with some of my N-Axis and N-Vectors with GREAT results. Its a subtle change that seems to bring the dome to its intended level being similar to the rest of my discs (Like the red ones that are nice and flat from factory).

I have not found a better method than this to get the results your looking for, and this will not wreck your discs.

I had to do this 2 times with one of my white neutron axis because the dome was insanely poped. The dome still goes up a little on the edges but the top is flat so it doesn't slow down as much. It flies like a seasoned proton i have now.. its awesome.

hope this works for you!

Also, i just got my Neutron Volts Monday. they turn so easy, but ALWAYS fade back and result in some mega distance with low power requirement. i got 170g to 173g range and EVERY discs color/weight has been exactly the same dome and flight for me so that is awesome consistency. Also they will hyzer flip to straight and come back with a good fade that is forward penetrating for great hyzer distance.. i LOVE THEM so far!

Thanks that sounds good. I've used the hot water trick on many plastics and even boiling water with weights didn't change Proton much at all. As i suspected Neutron is soften and more pliable with heating so that trick works better. Now only if stores in this country got Volts...

You mentioned intended level. Does anyone know what that is for each plastic in each mold? Yeti Aviar is intentionally concave in the flight plate and it is great for putting grip.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

JR wrote:You mentioned intended level. Does anyone know what that is for each plastic in each mold? Yeti Aviar is intentionally concave in the flight plate and it is great for putting grip.

I know a little about the intended dome level for MVP's discs...In general they like their neutral discs to be on the flat side as this seems to enhance the neutrality, though slight dome/shoulder are acceptable variants. On the more overstable discs (Ion, Vector) they like a little more dome as it makes them more overstable, although I don't think they ever want poppy tops--they want to keep the overall profile fairly low. Neutron plastic seems to mold flatter than Proton in general...I don't know if they will try to get the Neutron to mold more like the Proton or if they are fine with the variation between the two plastics(I sure am ). Proton soft seems to be the hardest plastic for them to mold uniform domes with as I have some that are almost concave and some that are high shouldered and domey.

I don't think we will ever see even close to the same variation with the Volts as we see with the mids/putters. For one they are made on a much higher precision machine, and secondly they have to keep the cores really uniform on the shoulder for them to even fit together right with the overmolds giving the dome less wiggle room to shape up differently.

pask2155 wrote:Is there a difference between the eclipse glow plastic and proton? Obviously one glows but is one more or less stable?

The very first Eclipse Vectors made were less stable, but that has more to do with how the overmolds were set on them. In general I've found no differences between Eclipse/standard that did not correlate with another variable such has dome, height of overmold (PLH), etc.

Exactly. MCP Glows are a mixed bag when it comes to operating them unassisted with LEDs. They have among the most glow material ever put into a disc but they need a stronger light for some reason than most discs. Most others have too little light coming from them when you play alone and walk to the disc but that is not nearly as much of a problem with MVP discs illuminated carefully with a 200 Lumen flashlight. It is so much light that looking directly at the reflections it hurt the eyes. I just don't think that 200 Lm even is enough for the best glow strength and duration so you have a choice to make. FWIW very large wings retain illumination very much longer than thin slivers of glo material. Just compare a Glo Z Nuke with a 200 Lm illumination to MVP putters and mids. The situation might be different with more luminous lights. People say that UV lights charge the discs better but seeing as 200 Lm is too bright and the iris won't get smaller with UV i'd say there's a risk to using UV.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

I've been throwing a pink 178 Nuetron Vector with a slight dome for a few days and so far I have been impressed with it. When thrown 300' the Neutron Vector goes straight for the first 260' or so then goes into a nice gentle fade, even at 330' it doesn't turn at speed. When I throw various hyzers it holds the angle well and really fights out of anhyzer releases. I imagined this is what the Vector would fly like. I bought a couple 178 Proton Vectors when they first came out and really liked how they flew but they weren't very versitile, when thrown flat they have a high speed turn and flip up from a hyzer. They just didn't have the stability to hold hyzers or flex shots that are forced over out of your hand. After reading this thread I've come to the conclusion that my Proton Vectors fly this way because they have flat tops.We'll see how the Nuetron Vector breaks in but for now these three discs cover my midrage shots very well.