B+ Canfield stoke !!

I wanted to start this thread so there is a common place for info running 27.5 Plus on a Canfield Bros Riot.
what tires and rims have worked. and what has not and why.
with tires being released like the Schwalbe 2.8 Nobby Nic.. B+ is an option worth exploring

I can see some benefits to a 3.0 ..even full squish
But, only for a clean sheet new bike design. Plus tires are not for everyone and, 3.0 B+ would probably narrow the available market significantly with the geometry and design compromises. It's much easier to get both a B+ 2.8 tire and a 29'er 2.5 tire to work in the same frame..

I edited the thread title.. any suggestions for a better one?
I'm looking to maybe add a Riot to the stable and need clearance info on the Riot a.s.a.p..

I ran 2.8 nobby nic 8 the rear with 30mm inner roval wheels off my enduro. It worked, however was super close on the drive side chain stay. So much that if I hit any mud it would cause issues. I DID very much like the feeling of that riot geo with plus size tires on it with the bottom bracket lower it felt better. So much so I am thibking about testing out a big volume 27.5 set up on the riot but not quite plus sized like a 2.5 minion wt or a set of wtb breakouts.

I ran 2.8 nobby nic 8 the rear with 30mm inner roval wheels off my enduro. It worked, however was super close on the drive side chain stay. So much that if I hit any mud it would cause issues. I DID very much like the feeling of that riot geo with plus size tires on it with the bottom bracket lower it felt better. So much so I am thibking about testing out a big volume 27.5 set up on the riot but not quite plus sized like a 2.5 minion wt or a set of wtb breakouts.

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I'm looking to add a Riot to the stable..
I've had the DHF 2.5 WT mounted up on Derby rims which have a 35mm inside width.
the profile of the tire is better then the 2.3 DHF on the same rim. I can tell there is more volume to the tire and can run it at a slightly lower pressure. There was more then adequate clearance on my 27.5 Endorphin. The Nobby Nic 2.8 is a whole different animal. much more volume. unfortunately it would lightly rub on the Knolly with a Derby rim. I just mounted up a B+ 2.8 Chupacabra to try. It might be the limit of tire size for that frame. I know it's not going to work everywhere. But, I'm hoping for the best on at least some of the stuff around Arizona

Spokes were a little long, and the included nipples from Dan's Comp were a little grabby, but it came together okay. The weld point on the i35s isn't the cleanest, either. I used clear Gorilla tape and seated bead with an air compressor (had to take the valve core out to get enough of a blast). Seems pretty good at the moment!

What length did you end up ordering and what ERD did you use for the i35s? Mine came together good using a 563 ERD and 272mm spokes with the older Pro2 EVO hubs.

Originally Posted by kragu

Spokes were a little long, and the included nipples from Dan's Comp were a little grabby, but it came together okay. The weld point on the i35s isn't the cleanest, either. I used clear Gorilla tape and seated bead with an air compressor (had to take the valve core out to get enough of a blast). Seems pretty good at the moment!

One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

B+ Canfield stoke !!

Very nice, Kragu! That's pretty dang close to what I wanted to do, but I ended up buying a Yelli that popped up on craigslist. I'm still gonna build some Blunt/Hope wheels for it eventually.

What's it weigh?

Thanks! I haven't weighed it yet, but I'm guessing about 3/4 of a pound more than my 29er version which came in just above 27. That was with i9 Enduro wheels and a non-exo Ikon/Exo Ardent combo. These tires are surprisingly light- the PaceStar came in at 874g and TrailStar at 889g.

I'd guess I'm still under 28, which isn't horrible with a dropper and a 2100g wheel set.

Originally Posted by LyNx

What length did you end up ordering and what ERD did you use for the i35s? Mine came together good using a 563 ERD and 272mm spokes with the older Pro2 EVO hubs.

I used 563 and a 271/272 combo on each wheel. What's the flange diameter on the Pro2? 57mm on the Pro4.

Pro2 EVO is 54/56, Spoke calc spat out 272.0/272.1 for the front and 272.3/271.7 rear, so just ordered a box of 272mm and worked fine.

Been riding and bashing these wheels now for over a month and they've held up great, no trouble what so ever, even when I lent my Paradox to a 220lb friend who then rode it with the fork in the Climb setting the whole ride including one of roughest and fastest trails. Just waiting to get the Maxxis Ikon/Rekon 2.8s for it and then I'll be all set.

Originally Posted by kragu

I used 563 and a 271/272 combo on each wheel. What's the flange diameter on the Pro2? 57mm on the Pro4.

One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

B+ Canfield stoke !!

Originally Posted by LyNx

Pro2 EVO is 54/56, Spoke calc spat out 272.0/272.1 for the front and 272.3/271.7 rear, so just ordered a box of 272mm and worked fine.

Been riding and bashing these wheels now for over a month and they've held up great, no trouble what so ever, even when I lent my Paradox to a 220lb friend who then rode it with the fork in the Climb setting the whole ride including one of roughest and fastest trails. Just waiting to get the Maxxis Ikon/Rekon 2.8s for it and then I'll be all set.

Awesome. I've always loved Schwalbe rubber in the first 300 miles or so. Probably take me 5 months or so to get to that on this set, since I'll be riding it 29 as well. My primary bike sees about a 4:1 use to this bike, so I'm not too worried about longevity with the Schwalbe rubber.

I have the WTB Trailblazer 2.8" on the rear and Trailboss 3.0" on the front. as with most 29ers, not a whole lot of room for more than a true 2.8"in the back and honestly with a sus fork the 3.0" seems overkill to me on the front. This combo hasn't been bad for me, Trailblazer reminds me of the Nano I first started out on on 29ers, decent grip, have worked well in the dry we have now, but where they have let me down is in the wet, absolutely scared the crap out of me and had me walking trail I would normally ride on Maxxis rubber - trail is just plain steep, rocks and roots, covered in moss, had no sort of inkling of traction on the WTBs.

Originally Posted by kragu

Awesome. I've always loved Schwalbe rubber in the first 300 miles or so. Probably take me 5 months or so to get to that on this set, since I'll be riding it 29 as well. My primary bike sees about a 4:1 use to this bike, so I'm not too worried about longevity with the Schwalbe rubber.

What are you running on it right now?

One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

Got in a decent 18 mile, 3200 ft ride today, the first on the B+ wheels. A little bit of everything - a ~40 minute fire road climb I've done about 10x, another 30 minutes of exploring a mix of ST and FR, a fun flowy single track descent, and a short, steeper, mixed conditions tech descent.

I crushed my PR on the long climb by almost 8 minutes. I'm fitter than I was and on a more suitable bike (a 6" rear 29er) than on my previous PR, but 8 minutes is a lot. Fire road was steep at points, loose, sometimes sandy and often rutted. I can think of a bunch of spots where both the float and grip of the plus setup was really nice. Would I have been faster overall on my Ardent/Ikon setup? Probably, but I'd guess not by much. That setup is about 400g lighter than this one, so despite some advantages the plus wheels give, I suspect over 38 minutes, lighter wheels might win out.

The ST descent was really damn fun. Half shaded hardpack, half sunny and steeper loose over hard, grip was on another level. The extra squish in the rear was just the right amount, and that plus float feeling mixed with great grip was a really cool feeling. I tried to get the squirmy feel people talk about, but I was able to break the rear loose before I felt any squirm. I'd drop a few PSI, but probably just as an experiment - dare I say I found a really nice spot on my first ride out. I'd rather drift than deal with squirm.

By the time I got to the tech descent, I had a pretty good feel for what the bike was going to do in the critical spots - mid speed run outs in silty, sandy, or marbly sections where braking and traction is a priority to get set up for the next section. Riding a HT in sections that might be better suited to a FS, you'd expect the front to kick and crab and the rear to buck, but the extra volume and (again) grip make for a much calmer experience. Obviously, this leads to more confidence, more speed. Not quite FS speed, but better than a normal 29" setup.

I'm tempted to run the same ride tomorrow with my 29" wheels, but I'll probably take the B+ out to another familiar trail.

Right tool for the job, that's the key and a B+ HT on a smoooth fire/gravel road climb is going to be fast. Had the same experience on a climb I know well, when I was very fit back in '07 a 5 min 30 sec time was smoking on my 32lb FS, couple weeks back on the B+ Paradox decided to give a bit of a push to see what I could do, well 5 min 40 secs is what I did an no where near the fitness I had back then.

Float and that extra little cush is what makes B+ so sweet, that and the fact that most, like us can most likely fit a 2.8" into the rear of our existing 29ers, giving us basically another version of that current bike, maybe even breathing new life into a bike we maybe thought needed upgrading.

Not sure how low you went with pressures, but with my setup and weighing about 180lbs geared to ride, I've settled on 16 PSI rear and 13 PSI front and I'm very sensitive to squirm. Mine are the Light/Fast casing.

One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

I was pretty high on the climbs... Probably 20f/22r. Let a bit out for the descents and when I checked it at home, it was 15f/17r. From what I understand, the NN sidewalls are pretty beefy compared to the WTB. Maybe I have room to move down, but it felt pretty damn good where it was. Any more grip and I'd have trouble breaking it loose (really just getting around to learning to ride that way).

Nice report! I don't think I need to read any more about it, B+ for me!

I think I'm gonna go with a Hope trials hub, I live in the flats so SS is where it's at (which is why I wanted a N9). I'll need to do some more i35 vs P-35 reading before I choose, then I'll need to pick tires. With the Al frame and SS I might end up in the 25-26lb range.

WTB Asym rims build an almost dishless wheel with normal 135/142 rear and 100 front hubs, so if you're using an SS/Short freehub hub, then the benefit might not be there for you since they already do that with a normal, straight drilled rim, but for sure for others running the normal full cassette hubs it makes for a stronger wheel.

Originally Posted by Cornfield

Nice report! I don't think I need to read any more about it, B+ for me!

I think I'm gonna go with a Hope trials hub, I live in the flats so SS is where it's at (which is why I wanted a N9). I'll need to do some more i35 vs P-35 reading before I choose, then I'll need to pick tires. With the Al frame and SS I might end up in the 25-26lb range.

One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

Here is a pic of mine with nobby nics.
BB height was a touch above 13.25 No issues with pedal strikes. But I did come off a 5" bike with a 13.0" bottom bracket so I might just be used to pedal timing and ratcheting.

WTB Asym rims build an almost dishless wheel with normal 135/142 rear and 100 front hubs, so if you're using an SS/Short freehub hub, then the benefit might not be there for you since they already do that with a normal, straight drilled rim, but for sure for others running the normal full cassette hubs it makes for a stronger wheel.

Yeah, that's kinda what I figured. I was hoping there would be more rim choices in the 35-40mm range by now. I've not been keeping up with new products very well, maybe there is? I haven't looked at carbon, and don't think I want to because of the added cost.

I've got another bike (Bianchi SASS) that I'd like to try the wheels on. I don't think there's room for B+ tires, but I know it'll fit 'normal' 27.5" tires. I don't want to go too wide on the rims, I might decide to keep them on the Bianchi and build another wheelset for the Yelli.

Well, there are the new Easton ARC rims that have up to I think 50mm internal width and are drilled center, also Kore has some that look quite interesting, price definitely makes them worth a look. If you stick to an inner width of 35mm, you'll be fine with <3" B+ tyres and also more normal 2.4", but rim could be a tad bit exposed if you've got lots of rocks on the trails you regularly ride.

Originally Posted by Cornfield

Yeah, that's kinda what I figured. I was hoping there would be more rim choices in the 35-40mm range by now. I've not been keeping up with new products very well, maybe there is? I haven't looked at carbon, and don't think I want to because of the added cost.

I've got another bike (Bianchi SASS) that I'd like to try the wheels on. I don't think there's room for B+ tires, but I know it'll fit 'normal' 27.5" tires. I don't want to go too wide on the rims, I might decide to keep them on the Bianchi and build another wheelset for the Yelli.

One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

Well, there are the new Easton ARC rims that have up to I think 50mm internal width and are drilled center, also Kore has some that look quite interesting, price definitely makes them worth a look. If you stick to an inner width of 35mm, you'll be fine with <3" B+ tyres and also more normal 2.4", but rim could be a tad bit exposed if you've got lots of rocks on the trails you regularly ride.

Thanks, LyNx! I think I'm probably going to give those a try. My Yelli already has Hope hubs, so I'll just break the 29" wheels down and use them. Then I'll have the option of running a cassette or spacers for SS. I can even try the wheels on the Bianchi and see what tires I can fit on it.

Not sure if my Reba will work, though. It's at 100mm and needs to be converted to 120mm. It also doesn't look like there'd be much clearance for a B+ tire. Maybe I'll just need to get a 140mm Pike.

My supplier has them listed as showing up the end of April. These should be a solid rim.

Thanks, Dusty. These may be a little better than the Realms. Now I'm thinking of possibly running a 29+ up front. Since I can convert my fork to 120mm, adding that little bit more tire will help get the BB up higher without having to buy a new fork. The only issue I can think of would be tire clearance on my Reba, I think it's a 2011.

Thanks, Dusty. These may be a little better than the Realms. Now I'm thinking of possibly running a 29+ up front. Since I can convert my fork to 120mm, adding that little bit more tire will help get the BB up higher without having to buy a new fork. The only issue I can think of would be tire clearance on my Reba, I think it's a 2011.

Ya, that Reba will give you clearance issues. I don't think it will work from what I have seen

Is there a good pressure gauge you all recommend for the plus tires? I was reading about gauge inconsistencies, and that some are better suited for low pressure over others. Any advice out there? I've got the NN 2.8's. Thanks!

I use a digital gauge I got from Auto Zone. Actually I have two and they are 1/2 psi off from each other. Not a big deal to me but nice to verify with. My pump also has a gauge and it seems really close to the digital readings. Digital is nice because it reads low pressure well. Nice for the dirt bike too, 13 psi.

but barley any on the chain stay. When it spins in the stand it doesn't rub but once I make a turn it rubs. 18psi in rear. Gonna try more pressure

Don't increase the pressure to prevent rubbing. It's rubbing from the wheel deflecting, not from air pressure. You may end up increasing the size of the tire or even stretching the tire larger if you increase the pressure.

Would love to try some B+ tyres on the trails in riding at the moment. The only problem it's super rocky but they aren't sharp. Although I did have a scare with a big drop into a rock garden and manage to bottom my rear carbon rim, not a nice sound.

Is there a consensus on the max internal rim width to fit the various Canfield frames? I am looking at building a wheelset to run the Nobby Nics or Maxxis Rekon+ 2.8 tires with either the Easton ARC 30 or the Stan's Flows MK3's laced to I9 hubs on my 2016 Nimble 9. The ARCs are 30 Internal and 34 External while the Stan's Flow MK3's are 29 Internal and 32.6 External. The both weigh within 10 grams of each other. I would go wider but the clearances for the rims in the 35mm internal width look very tight on everyone's pics. I don't want to trim side knobs.

Is there a consensus on the max internal rim width to fit the various Canfield frames? I am looking at building a wheelset to run the Nobby Nics or Maxxis Rekon+ 2.8 tires with either the Easton ARC 30 or the Stan's Flows MK3's laced to I9 hubs on my 2016 Nimble 9. The ARCs are 30 Internal and 34 External while the Stan's Flow MK3's are 29 Internal and 32.6 External. The both weigh within 10 grams of each other. I would go wider but the clearances for the rims in the 35mm internal width look very tight on everyone's pics. I don't want to trim side knobs.

38 external 31.6 internal x 2.4 but measures almost 2.6 width. Seems to work well for me. I ripped my rear tire so threw this one on to ride and ended up keeping it. Ill probably go back to 2.8 but for my size this may be a better option. I was struggling dialing in the psi in back with the 2.8. Either too hard or too wallowy. I'm 250 so it became a delicate balance with too much or too little air pressure. My assumption is that with a Riot I wouldn't have to be so precise on psi in the rear as a hardtail.

You just saved me some $! I was gonna order a breakout to sneak a little more outta the width but those measurements are close. I rode DH back in the day with a high volume front and narrower rear and loved it. Kinda the same feel here

Canfield needs to add some tire clearance, at least make a 2.8 fit. I would totally buy a Riot, but it's not quite wide enough, still on the fence...

You could have your more tire clearance from Canfield but the bikes would have longer chainstays. Do you want that? The tire falls behind the chainring because of the shortest chain stays in the business so the chainstays have to taper back in to allow room for the crank and chainring. It's not a plus bike. It's not boost.

You could have your more tire clearance from Canfield but the bikes would have longer chainstays. Do you want that? The tire falls behind the chainring because of the shortest chain stays in the business so the chainstays have to taper back in to allow room for the crank and chainring. It's not a plus bike. It's not boost.

Adding 5mm more clearance in each direction, adding more versatility, yeah, I'd take that. An adjustable drop would make everyone happy except maybe the engineers and the weight weenies.

I went with WTB Breakout 2.5's on 27.5 WTB Asym i29 rims on my 2012 Yelli frame. Fork is a 2013 RS Revelation, 20mm axle. Clearance is good all around. Roughly measured wheel diameter is a shade over 28". BB is around 12" Yet to hit dirt, but it feels like up and down the block. Not sure what pressure I'm going to land on.

Edit: I know a 2.5" tire isn't quite B+, but it seems to be a viable option, so I added my setup to this thread. Tread width is right at 2.5, casing a little smaller. I can get more accurate numbers and at what pressures but I figure the setup fits the frame and that's all I need to know. Was tempted to go with the i35 rims, but if I ever want to try the 2.8 Nobby Nic's, I was concerned I could be getting too tight in the chain stays.

I went with WTB Breakout 2.5's on 27.5 WTB Asym i29 rims on my 2012 Yelli frame. Fork is a 2013 RS Revelation, 20mm axle. Clearance is good all around. Roughly measured wheel diameter is a shade over 28". BB is around 12" Yet to hit dirt, but it feels like up and down the block. Not sure what pressure I'm going to land on.

Edit: I know a 2.5" tire isn't quite B+, but it seems to be a viable option, so I added my setup to this thread. Tread width is right at 2.5, casing a little smaller. I can get more accurate numbers and at what pressures but I figure the setup fits the frame and that's all I need to know. Was tempted to go with the i35 rims, but if I ever want to try the 2.8 Nobby Nic's, I was concerned I could be getting too tight in the chain stays.

I have the breakout 2.5 on 35blunt rims best setup on my Yelli 2014 hooks up good