The closest ammunition I could find to what seems to be agreed as the right one for the Viper, is a NATO 30mm cannon round with a 173mm long case.

I found a scrap piece of Oregon and hacked it square with one of my small knives. Metalwork lathes work OK on wood, lucky for me. I used a photograph of the NATO round and was able to guesstimate approximate dimensions, knowing the diameter of the projectile was 30mm. It looks good after a bit of paint. I’ll mask it off tomorrow and spray the bands on it. I’d still like to get hold of an inert round to compare it. Then to make about 30 more of them and find/make some link to hang them under the guns of the Viper.

I’m really worried that the push button banks sent via US postage last October, (2017) have been lost or stolen. I am making fake buttons to cover the shortfall. They are 19x19mm and have 18x18mm stickers to label them all.
Full build here.

Thanks to the guys here on OCAU, I was able to find a suitable dimmer for the AMPEX panel, (AKA weapon systems and fire control) and light it. As I couldn't source an AMPEX panel, I had to scratch build it from wood and plastic. Looks OK I suppose.

Thanks to a mate of mine, Andrew W, who replicated the gauges and digital dispay for me to print off on A4 paper and put lights behind it.

Time has been difficult to juggle, but I managed to get a bit of work in on the project here and there.

I've started making link for the 30mm cannon ammunition so I can make up two belts of 15 for each wing.

I've also finished bringing the interior walls up to the window sill so now I can bring the outer hull skin all the way up to meet them for an air-seal with the canopy frame.

I've also started the ejector seat configuration, starting with a spacer box underneath to raise it and provide a base to build the rest of the unit from. I also cut the top of the seat off as they did with the original prop to allow for the headrest and integrated systems in the top of the seat.

My shaping press worked for a few, but then it started distorting and I was constantly having to bash it back into shape. So, I went back to the drawing board and strengthened it with plate steel and welded another pipe inside the 40mm pipe to stop it from squashing. The results are much more consistent.

I wanted to at least make some attempt to make the back end of the rounds look like they have primers in them, so I used a 20mm spade bit to drill a hole and countersunk ring, then bashed in clout nails to be ground and polished later.

I also changed from rubbish pine to a hardwood made from half a dozen old rotten tree stakes. After sorting through them and cutting off the rotten half, I salvaged enough from the rubbish pile to turn a few more bullets. They turn much nicer.

Back to working on the cockpit. These instrument side shelves require careful fabrication. Slowing down and actually bought dressed timber this time, instead of rough ply.

The shelves in the screen-used prop were vacuformed and textured plastic. I am thinking I can achieve the same using timber and sanding it smooth, then using hammer-finish paint to achieve similar texture.

I'm watching the re-imagined series for about the ninth time at the moment.. I am a dead set BSG NUT.

I'll be watching this and would be damned near more than tempted to ride my motorbike down from QLD just to see the completed ship in the flesh. :O

Click to expand...

Ohcowers are always welcome mate.

Starting the ejector seat configuration with a spacer box underneath to raise it and provide a base to build the rest of the unit from. I also cut the top of the seat off as they did with the original prop to allow for the headrest and integrated systems in the top of the seat. The padded cover just gets folded back and stitched behind the seat to dress it off.

Building the sides and top was tricky and a bit of trail and error. I only really had three half-decent photos to work from at different angles, but they were difficult to translate into shape and size with such limited views and details. I made a frame out of plywood which was pretty basic to back the seat and hug it's contours. Then I started from the top, as the pictures I have are of it are best from there. Working my way down, it was a bit of improvisation with limited materials, but I managed to find a happy approximation.

Again, I found it a big money saver to use cardboard first to freehand the shapes and fit, then transfer to half inch plywood once I had established the form. I'll add in small details later, but that's the main construction finished. It was quite a challenge.