Hi. Your adjustment on rear brake indside rotor if off on one side. Pool both rotors out and you will see the distances in between the hand brake pads are different. Masure it and adjust it. Hand brakes are mechanical no hydraulics so it must be your adjustment

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Usually the adjustment is in the cables, either at the e-brake handle or at the caliper. I don't know of an adjustment on the caliper itself. Take a look at each rear caliper and see if it looks like something is broken off or missing. Something integral to the system may have just flat out broken off.

hi fro uk when you reassembled brake shoes? did you notice the tubular bar just below b/cylinder? it fits between the two shoes and has a toothed wheel on the treaded side(l/h) this is the auto adjuster ie as tooth wheel is rotated it extends the treaded side thus adjusting shoes to drum o/k? this is normally done auto by the small lever below but when fitting new shoes you must adjust this rod with tooth wheel and keep trying drum fitting when you can fit drum /just? fit and press brake to centralise shoes to drum then adjust again if req'd so that drum fits and rotates withh shoes not binding ?? do both sides THENyou willdrums fitted you will feel b/pedal is improved ie less travel on braking ? SO FIRST THING YOU HAVE TO DO IS SLACKEN OFF H/BRAKE CABLE ADJUSTMENT /SLACK ? then proceed with the above instruction afterwards if you do as above then you pull h/brake up one notch ? then adust slack from cable to light tension release h/brake and ensure wheels rotate freely when you apply h/brake it should hold on approx four//five notch ? hope this helps

Take the caliper apart and grease the Slide pins. There are two of them. When these get dried out it cause them to stick and not release the brake. When you pull the two halves of the caliper apart there will probably be dust in there. Clean it out and grease them up.

The hand brake hardly ever needs ajusting. See your hand brake mechanincly spreads your rear brake shose inside the drum. Therefore just replace your rear shoes and make sure there ajusted right and you should have no more problems with that part of your car. PS make sure you put some 3M paste on the contact points on your backing plate to avoid a squeak in the near future.

While replacing REAR CALIPERS Park Brake Should NOT BE APPLIED Until Completely DONE with PROCEDURE,Nor Should it be Released During Procedure. As isogeorge Said Your Problem MAY Be in the Adjustment of the PARK BRAKE CABLE,
Requiring removal of Rubber BOOT @ HANDBRAKE and Tightening or Loosening of Cable whichever you deem Appropriate. In My Thoughts it is too tight thus Engaging PARK BRAKE SWITCH turning ON LIGHT. PLEASE Feel FREE to Refer Back to Me For ANY Assistance with this Problem, Hope this Gets you on the right Track and Solves your Problem.

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There are a number of issues that can cause overheating disc brakes. Disc brakes, when released, separate from the disc by the action of the rotor moving between them (since no rotor is perfectly true, there is a small about of wobble and it pushes the pads away from the rotor surface). Things that can cause this to go wrong are:

Caliper pistons that have rust rings that cause sticking. This most often will happen right after or shortly after replacing old, work out pads with new ones. Because the caliper piston was extended out farther with the worn pads, its surface may get rusty. This rust can cause sticking when the piston is pushed back into the bore with the new, thicker pads.

Caliper slide bolts will rust and get sticky, not allowing the caliper to release properly and re-center itself on the rotor. What you often see here is that one pad (inner or outer) is totally worn out and the other seems normal.

Rusty brake lines/caliper internals can cause restrictions in the flow of brake fluid and hold pressure after the brake pedal is released.

It is highly recommended that whenever you change your brake pads, you replace the caliper slide bolts use a new brake hardware kit when reinstalling. The additional cost is almost always saved in longer brake pad life, and fewer complications.

Rear brake calipers are stuck with road dirt and need servicing. The calipers need to slide smoothly to operate. If you don't know what to do, get trained help because brakes are your life. While the cables are off during caliper overhaul, check them for free movement, replacement is not difficult just fiddly.

Remove rear wheel and tire assemblies, then install two lug nuts to retain each rotor assembly.

If two parking brake levers on both calipers are not against lever stops on caliper housings, check for binding in rear cables and/or loosen cables at adjuster until both left and right levers are against their stops.

Tighten parking brake cable at adjuster until either the left or right lever begins to move off the stop, then loosen adjustment until lever moves back barely touching stop.

Operate parking brake several times to check adjustments. A firm pedal feel should be obtained by pumping pedal two full strokes and rear wheels should not rotate forward when parking brake is fully applied.

Make sure your handbrake cable is adjusted properly. Adjust the rear brake shoes down to where the wheels turn freely with the linings only just touching the drums. Be sure to pump the pedal a few times after adjusting, then try again.
The front wheels (pads and calipers) will just about never bind, so concentrate on the rear wheels. If you do suspect the front wheels, release the bleeder valve for just a second and then try again.

Its probably the rubber hose that goes between the metal break line and the caliper. That hose is like a 2 way valve that lets fluid into the caliper when brakes are applied and lets fluid back out when brakes are released. These hoses deteriorate and stop letting fluid back out causing the brake to stay tight against rotor.

The rear calipers work as the handbrake as well.
The solution is (with the engine running and in park/neutral) pump the brake pedal at the same time as pulling up and releasing the handbrake lever.You may have to do this quite a few times until the caliper resets its self.
You will notice the handbrake lever getting firmer as the calipers reset and adjust.

The handbrake adjuster is under the centre console behind the lever. If its coming too high, check that the levers at the rear brake calipers are free and moving back to their stop position - they are prone to seizing up on older or little used cars. They can usually be freed off with a bit of lube and working the lever back and forwards. If that dosn't work, unfortunately you'll need new calipers. Do not adjust the handbrake cable unless the caliper levers are at their stops as this seriously reduces handbrake efficiency!

The pistions on the rear is ALL MR2s are not the push in type...You need a special tool to screw them in... You can rent the tool for free at your local AutoZone but they charge like a $55 dollar core charge...once you bring it back they refund your money. TRUST ME if you are gonna try this route you want that tool!!! I did a full brake and rotor job on my MR2 3 weeks ago and without that tool I would still be working on them ; )

Back to the brakes though...are you sure they ever really worked properly? The MR2s are notorious about "brake cable freeze" this is where the cable becomes locked in place and feels like its putting pressure on the pads when you engage it, but it really isn't. This happened to me last winter (and it seems to happen most often in the winter) but I haven't fixed it yet. I pulled up so hard on the lever that i snapped the cable in half when I tried to keep the MR2 from rolling.

You may need new cables. If you have someone apply the hand brake for you and you are watching from both sides of te rear of the car (with the wheels off) you should see where the cables attach to the back of the calipers on each side of the car. When it is being engaged you should see the cable pull on the lever on the back of each caliper. If this doesn't happen, then you are the victim of "brake freeze" and if it matters that much to you then you will need to have the bad cable or cables replaced.