TIME's just published their list of the 100 greatest fashion icons since 1923, when the magazine launched. The big number's broken down into different categories: designers, models, photographers, muses, editors & stylists and the vaguely named style & design.

The only real surprise in the first category is the inclusion of Sara Blakely (though the Olsens earned a double take). Blakely's brand, Spanx, certainly revolutionized the world of underpinnings, but her products aren't actually fashionable, certainly not with a capital `F'. She's lumped in with Coco Chanel, Cristobal Balenciaga, Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs, or brands like Hermes and Louis Vuitton.

As far as models go, it stops at Gisele, leaving out younger faces like Daria Werbowy, Lara Stone or Coco Rocha. Claudia Schiffer, Elle Macpherson and Christy Turlington were left off, too. Muses run the gamut from Brigitte Bardot to the Beatles, probably marking the first (and last?) time that Michael Jackson and Michelle Obama will earn such a title. Bruce Weber, Ellen Von Unwerth, Mario Testino, Steven Meisel lead the brigade of contemporary photographers while Patricia Field shakes up an expected list of iconic stylists and editors.