Hale'iwa beach, late January 2009. It was probably a little more than 15 feet or so. I had only been surfing for about two months after a six year break. I don't know what made me think I should even paddle out, except my daughter saying "daddy those waves are big, I think you should go." So I went. I paddled out on an 8'6" epoxy, the paddle out was actually pretty easy, I just watched a dude go out through the channel and followed him. There were maybe 8 or 9 of us out in the lineup. I wasn't even out there for a minute and an outside set hit. We all started paddling out, trying to get out before the waves broke. After the first wave broke there were six of us, after the second wave broke there were three of us, after the third wave broke I was under water getting pushed down. I came back up for a breath and there was another 15 footer breaking down on me. I grabbed my board and before I could dive under it broke on me and held me down for a little bit. After that second wave I was pretty much through. I realized I was out over my head so I called it quits. I'll be back next winter!

Favourite Surfers:

The people I surf with, Dave, Kevin, Suzie and Shana.

My Quiver

Shape:

Longboard

Fins:

1- Single

Shaper:

unk

Size x Width x Thickness:

11'

Condition:

Showing its age

Make and Technology:

This thing used to be a Waikiki rental. I'll have to check and see how wide and fat this thing really is. It has so much fiberglass on it the thing weighs at least 45 pounds, if not more.

Tail:

round

Bottom:

Flat

Rails, Specifics:

This thing's got some real soft rails.

Year Bought:

2009

My Opinion About:

This thing is a pig. You can't help but catch a wave with this thing. I like putting my daughter on this thing and catching waves with her.

Shape:

Longboard

Fins:

3- Thrusther

Size x Width x Thickness:

10'

Condition:

Still Sexy

Make and Technology:

10' epoxy board.

My Opinion About:

This thing is so light, and floats so easily. I love riding this thing. It's fast too.

Shape:

Mini-Mal / Hybrid

Fins:

3- Thrusther

Size x Width x Thickness:

8'6"

Condition:

Still Sexy

Make and Technology:

Epoxy board.

My Opinion About:

Starting to absolutely love this board. The more I ride it, the more comfortable I get on it, the more this thing grows on me.

Shape:

Mini-Mal / Hybrid

Fins:

2- Fish

Size x Width x Thickness:

7'6"

Condition:

Well Used

My Opinion About:

I have emotional ties to the board, but it's been 6 years since I've surfed it. I tried to surf that thing today, 27 January 2009, and definitely struggled. It's very narrow, definitely squirly to ride. Trying to ride that today was definitely a reality check.

Personnal info

City:

Ewa Beach

Country:

United States of America

Gender:

Male

Surfer Age:

Pushing it (30-40yrs)

Status:

Married with Kids

What I love:

Hanging with the family, surfing, diving, golfing, grilling, and just being in Hawaii.