Re:

I'm not a C owner, but........ I'd think a competent machine shop could
remove the studs, and plane the surface of your spare manifold. If you
want to remove the studs yourself, an acetylene torch isn't the only
heating device you could use - I frequently use a propane torch. If you
can swing it somehow, the most effective heat situation is to heat the
outter surface (female thread - i.e. the manifold your case) and chill the
inner threaded item. Not easy to do, but if you get a punch or chisel and
put it in the freezer (and wear gloves) you may be able to heat with the
torch (first) and then apply the cold to the stud. The opposit of this is
how interference fit parts are made (freeze the inner part, heat the
outter - press together, and let come to temp) and the bond is stronger
than a weld. It's also how hardened seats are put in a cylinder head.
Phil Bates
> C owners and mechanics,
> Anybody experience an exhaust manifold leak in your C's? For the first
> 1.5
> years back on the road, my C tourer ran without a leak. About 4 months
> ago, it
> started to sound like a spitting sound only upon acceleration, very
> slight.
> Now it is still doing it upon acceleration but a little more pronounced.
> I've
> tried to tighten the nuts and this did quiet it somewhat. I now see black
> residue between the second and third pipe at the top of the manifold.
> 1. Will this cause any damage other then discoloration of the manifold
> until I
> get the guts up to pull the carbs and manifold? 2. Can a machine shop
> level a
> manifold that is not level? I have a spare but it is not level between one
> set
> of pipes and an adjorning set. It also has rusted studs on it. 3. Is my
> only
> recourse to remove the studs is with heat from an acetylene torch?
> 4. Can a doubled gasket be used to fill a slight gap in the original
> manifold,
> if I can't get the spare manifold studs out and it leveled?
> What do you guys think?
> Jim 69C
> 70B