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Rail settings for NN5L, 5D MKII & Canon EF 8-15mm fisheye

I have a work colleague in another country that has just recently purchased the following combination in order to take the photographs and then email them to me for stitching etc.

NN5L
Canon 5D MKII
Canon EF 8-15mm fisheye

I have the same set up except my lens is the earlier Canon EF 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye lens and I use 78 for the top rail and 58 for the bottom rail. I'm not too sure if the 8-15mm fisheye would need any changes in the settings so am hoping to get some advise on this forum please from anyone else that has the same set up.

I was hoping someone out there would be using the Canon 5D / 8-15mm fisheye with the NN5. As I'm using a top rail setting of 78 for my 15mm fisheye I'm not too sure what Johns 104.5mm is referring to as that's quite a difference.

Unfortunately my work colleague is totally new to 360's and it's proving difficult to sort this out over the internet as he's in Canada & I'm in Australia.

Comment

Just re check John's answer: it's for a Canon 5DII, the same camera you are using?

The URS = Upper Rail Settings will be the same because in first instance they are lens correlated plus camera body. NN4 and NN5 use the same construction with the rail fixed to the upper rotator and then add different length of rails. John is The Most Experienced User Since Years, one of the first doing panorama photos. The settings published are the settings he uses himself. You can trust him.

You can not compare a zoom lens with your 15mm lens because of construction.

Comment

éric, I'm not sure what the red arrow in your jpeg is supposed to indicate. The central horizontal row of three images were shot with a yaw increment of 30°, I believe. So if you are shooting panoramas 6 around, it is the left and right images that need to be compared for parallax. Looking at the grid wire to the right of the car, there is clear parallax shift observable.

Comment

éric, Yes. That's what I was referring to. I never spend more than 5-10mins setting up my NN5 head. I use the method of directly checking the entrance pupil for a change in position simply by looking at it. See http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm. It works well enough for most purposes.