Eastern State Penitentiary

Story and photos by Kristen RebeloQuailBellMagazine.com

Once known for housing some of the most notorious criminals, Eastern State Penitentiary has since fallen into disarray. Located in the heart of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, mere blocks from shops and restaurants, it now stands as a daunting reminder of our past.

Eastern State Penitentiary opened its doors after being uniquely designed by John Haviland in 1829. The prison was considered the world’s “first true penitentiary” and differed greatly from traditional American prisons.

The institution was designed in a different way so that prisoners could be constantly watched. A small circular vestibule is the heart of the prison, with hallways lined with cells radiating out from it. When more cells had to be added to one of the hallways later on due to overcrowding, large mirrors that faced the center room were installed. This way, one guard could thoroughly monitor the entire prison from his post in the center.

Eastern State also introduced a new way of housing inmates. Rather than being thrown together, inmates were kept in solitary confinement at all times, even having separate courtyards attached to each cell so prisoners would never come into contact with one another.

From the time of an inmate’s arrival to the end of his sentence, he was never supposed to have any human contact. If a prisoner ever had to leave his cell, his head would be covered with a black cloth so he would not even come into contact with the guard. The relatively advanced plumbing system was also not without reason. All toilets flushed into one main well so that prisoners could not exchange messages among one another.

This was the first time such tactics of isolation had been implemented, and differed greatly from the standard American prisons where inmates were housed in large communal rooms. If inmates misbehaved, they were subject to brutal and odd punishments, such as being lowered into an underground pit for days on end, or strapped so tightly to a chair that it made any slight movement impossible. Although originally thought to be a good idea, studies conducted actually found that the extreme isolation led to mental illness in many of the prisoners. In many cases, they left more disturbed and violent than they had been upon arrival.

While it is not certain where many features of the prison originated, many say they have the Puritanical roots of early America. The design of penitentiary is heavily influenced by Gothic cathedrals and churches. Doors were small so that prisoners had to bow into their cells, a subtle reverent gesture. Small skylights were constructed into the ceilings of most cells as the “eye of God,” a constant reminder that they were being watched from above. Unlike other prisons, the goal was not simply punishment, but also penance, (the derivative of the word “penitentiary.") Wardens believe this penance could be achieved by solitude and a prisoner’s constant reflection on his negative actions.

In 1959, the latest addition to the prison was made. The chilling Cellblock 15, or “Death Row,” was for prisoners deemed beyond forgiveness. This represents a change in thinking from the earlier days of Eastern State, when the prison system outlined that all inmates were capable of rehabilitation. This small block of cells held the most violent inmates and was essentially a place for extreme punishment. Although few of these inmates held death sentences and no executions ever took place inside the facilities, “Death Row” was the most gruesome place in the penitentiary.

One reason for the prison’s notoriety is because of the famous prisoners that were at a time housed there, including gangster Al Capone and bank robber Willie Sutton.

Al Capone’s cell is still intact, the only luxurious room in the prison. It is filled with lavish furniture, linens, and even a cabinet radio. Capone had an interesting stay at Eastern State, where he was locked up for the first time in his gangster career in 1929. He was treated considerably well by guards and lived in relative comfort, an obvious nod to his power.

Wille Sutton was imprisoned at the same time as Capone. The two were actually some of the only prisoners ever allowed visitors. (Not from friends and family because wardens still believed in isolation, but from certain important people who were interested in touring the facilities.) In 1945 Willie Sutton led an escape of 11 prisoners by digging an underground tunnel longer than 100 feet. Although he was caught soon after, it was the only successful break out to ever happen from within the prison facilities.

A place so eerie is not without its ghosts. For years, the prison has been visited by seekers of the paranormal and has frequently been cited as one of the scariest places in the country. Many believe that the place has been haunted since its abandonment in 1970. Reports of the sounds of pacing footsteps and wails have long plagued visitors. Even scarier is the sight of a shadowy figure that seems to appear some nights in one of the guard tower. Stories of the famous locksmith are spread, a tale of an innocent man doing restoration work on a cell door when a ghostly force overpowered him completely, making him incapable of movement. The eeriest story though, is the strange sounds of laughter heard in Cellblock 12, where the pictures for this very article were taken. Every year, dozens of paranormal investigators dare to seek spirits within the deserted cells. They are rarely disappointed, almost always claiming to find paranormal activity.

After it was abandoned and the prisoners moved to other sites, Eastern State Penitentiary fell into ruin, completely isolated except for the mold within and an odd number of stray cats. Not until 1994 did the prison open its doors to the public, offering tours to all who dared to enter. Only slight renovations have been made, and only for the safety of visitors. Until 2002, guests were required to wear hard hats to guard against any falling debris. Major renovations would likely ruin the atmosphere, which seems to turn colder and eerier within seconds of entering the front gates.

Eastern State is now a popular tourist site. People flock from all over to see Al Capone’s cell, to see the ruins that remain, and to participate in the annual “Night of Terror” every October, a fright fest where visitors are free to roam the grounds--if they dare--while being chased by realistic horror characters. The site has also been used as a set for movies, TV shows, and video games, as it provides the ideal scary setting. It has also been featured on nonfiction shows about ghosts and the paranormal such as Ghost Hunters and MTV’s Fear. Designated a National Landmark, it is truly a part of the nation’s history and provides a unique look into our past.