That is a really nice build so far. I also have a little 12' that I am working on now I never thought it would be deep enough to put a floor in like you have what are the dimensions of the floor piece. I am wondering if I could do that with my boat.

Thanks for the kind words guys. The floor is 7' x 3' in the rear tapering to 14" in the front. Today I finished bolting the new transom in and packed some foam in the sides and under the rear seat compartment. As for weight, it's only an estimation but i don't think it's gained more than 40-50 lbs.

I forgot to add that the trailer has been getting upgrades as well. A nice 20/40 semi gloss black rattle can job, new bearings, seals and harbor freight bearing buddies and a winch strap to replace the rope.

I got impatient and took the boat out to the city park lake up the street. The rear seat pieces aren't bolted to hinges yet, a few panels haven't been installed but it cruises nice with the trolling motor and was plenty stable even with two guys standing and fishing.

FatChad wrote:I got impatient and took the boat out to the city park lake up the street. The rear seat pieces aren't bolted to hinges yet, a few panels haven't been installed but it cruises nice with the trolling motor and was plenty stable even with two guys standing and fishing.

I realized that I never posted possibly my favorite improvement. New oarlock socket inserts and oarlock risers. The inserts are plastic and inexpensive and the risers are just cut up original locks with some tubing welded in and washers to keep wear to the inserts minimal. Silent. No creaks whatsoever, a pet peeve of mine. Anyone who rows to drift rivers or go across ponds should consider this. A 5/8" drill bit to drill out the old brass inserts will be the most expensive part at around $25, if you can't find one to borrow.

The aluminum I bought at a place called metal supermarket, they had any size needed. 6061 1x1x.125 angle for the floor bracing. I used 1.5x1.5 and 2x2 both quarter thick for the side bracing and the front cross support. I am fortunate enough to have a friend with a metal shop in his garage. So to cut we used an automatic metal cutting bandsaw, but a vise and sawzall would work as well. All of the aluminum on the floor is attached with 3/16" rivets into the ribs of the hull. The side supports are bolted with 1/4x20 ss machine screws, washers and nyloc nuts through the original front seat support and welded to some more of that 1x1 1/8th inch that is riveted to the original rear seat. The front cross support is welded to the side supports. All of the welding was done with a mig with a spool gun. I hope that answered some questions. Ask any others that come to mind. I did a lot of reading on here, measuring and thinking about layout and pricing a parts list before I started collecting parts. Once I had most of the parts I started the project. That way I wouldn't get stuck with it half done and possibly unable to afford what I needed to finish quickly.