Tag Archives: counterbalance loom

SOLD
Large, old wooden loom for sale. Made by The Burchard Weaver’s in Oakland, CA. This is a functional counterbalance, floor loom. 42″ weaving width. No comb or sectional beam. Great for beginners. Attached are photos of the loom assembled and disassembled. $150 + shipping (likely via UPS). Please email me with questions or to make an offer. I can also send you higher resolution photos. Located in Santa Cruz, CA near the Bay Area. Local buyer preferred but will disassemble for shipping.
Thank You!
Lindsay

Yes, you can get a good shed on a counterbalance loom. It is just a matter of balance. The main thing to remember, is if the loom tie-ups are not centered, then weight of the shafts are not balanced, and you will not be able to get an even shed.

You can even weave 3/1 patterns successfully. Your shed will be a bit smaller, but wide enough for a shuttle to pass through.

It is easiest to fine tune and balance your loom, once a warp is threaded. Here’s how I do it.

Start at the top of the loom and locate the centre.

This Glimakra loom is 60″ wide, so the centre is at 30″.

Now locate the centre point from both edges to the centre. This is where the upper pulleys for the shafts should be placed.

The pulley is 1″ wide, so I place it at 14.5″ from the edge of the loom.

It is important that the tie-up to the shafts is perpendicular and centered and that each tie-up yarn is of equal length.
I use texsolv cord, as it is easy to check that each cord is the same length, by counting the number of loops in the cord.

The distance between the notches on the horses is 6″.

To check that the tie-ups to the shafts are also perpendicular, they should also be 6″ apart, and the texsolv cords should be at right angles to the upper shafts.

The distance from the edge of the shaft to the outer tie-up cord is 13″.

With your loom threaded, check on the side of the loom to see that the warp is running through at the centre of the heddles.

If necessary, adjust the height of the cords that run from the upper pulleys to the horses.

On this loom, this distance is 12″.

Under the Loom

Once you have balanced the top of the loom, you can now set up the treadles.

To hold the pedals in place while doing the tie-up, I prop them up on a rod.
A broom handle and a couple of boxes work fine for this.

I use Texsolv cord for the pedal tie-up as well.

Each cord is the same length, to ensure that the lamms are balanced.

They should be tied so that they are parallel and level.

Locate the center point of the first shaft, and tie a cord from the shaft to the first lamm, at its centre.

The first shaft is tied to the first lamm, the second shaft is tied to the second lamm, and so on. Repeat for each shaft and lamm.

Now you can tie the lamms to the pedals, depending on your peg plan.

In this photo, the tie-up is for a tabby, so the first pedal is tied to lamms 1 & 3 and the second pedal is tied to lamms 2 & 4.

Make sure that the ties are taut – no slack.
Once you begin to weave, the cords may stretch slightly, especially if they are new, so this may require some adjustment.

That’s it!

Remember to remove the broom handle you used for a pedal support, and any other rods or sticks you might have used for support during the tie-up.

With a good shed, the horses should create an almost 90″ angle when a pedal is fully depressed.

Note: I have placed a rod through the small holes at the ends of the shafts, to help hold them in place while setting up the loom.

Handbok Iveving
J.W. Carpelens Forlag
CentralTrykkeriet, Oslo
1958
I have added the Red lettering to the diagrams, to help in identifying the tie-ups.

When you begin to tie the pedals on a countermarche loom, make sure that the stabilizing pin is in place at the top of the loom. This holds the jacks in place while you tie the pedals.

When you tie a countermarche loom, all the ties have to be level. All the cords have to be equal length for each harness. Using Texsolv cord makes this an easier task because you can count the number of loops in the cord and also make small adjustments by moving the pegs up or down one loop. I also use a small carpenters level to check that the harnesses are level. There are 2 types of countermarche looms. One of them (Type A) has 2 sets of levers or jacks at the top of the loom that rotate on a center axle. A,B, C. The other type (Type B) has 1 lever or jack in the center and a set of pulleys.

Type B

Countermarche Loom Pattern Tie-up

The pattern tie-up is the same for both types of countermarche looms.

Bottoms Up

The Bottom Lamm – J -raises the shafts. When the Bottom Lamm is tied to the pedals and depressed, this pulls on the Top lever (C – D) causing A to rise. This raises the shaft at B. Tops Down

The Top Lamm – I – lowers the shafts. The Top Lamm is tied to the Centre of the Bottom Shaft at E – F. When the pedals are tied to the Top Lamm, this pulls down on the shaft causing it to lower.

For a Rising Shed tie-up, I tie all the Bottom Lamm sheds first. Then I go back and tie the Top Lamms.
To hold the pedals in place while doing the tie-up, I prop them up on a rod.
A broom handle and a couple of boxes work fine for this.

When tying up a pattern for a countermarche loom, you only need to tie up the number of treadles that you require for the pattern. The other treadles can be left untied and sitting on the floor. But you will need to tie up each shaft that is operating – to either a top or a bottom lamm, on each pedal. If you are using 4 shafts and 6 pedals, you will need to make 24 ties. Example:

This table describes the tie-ups necessary for a standard tabby and twill tie-up.

Pedal 1

Shaft 1 & 3 raised

J – K
Tie the Shafts that will be raised by Pedal 1 Tie Bottom Lamm 1 to the Pedal
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 1 in #1 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 1 on the Pedal 1Tie Bottom Lamm 3 to Pedal #1
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 1 in #3 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 3 on the PedalI – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 2 & 4 to Pedal #1

Tie Top Lamm #2 to Pedal #1

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #1 in Top Lamm #2. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #2 in Pedal 1.

Tie Top Lamm #4 to Pedal #1

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #1 in Top Lamm #4. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #4 in Pedal 1.

Pedal 2

Shaft 2 & 4 raised

J – KTie Bottom Lamm 2 to the Pedal #2
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 2 in #2 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 2 on the Pedal 2Tie Bottom Lamm 4 to Pedal #2
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole #2 in #4 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 4 on Pedal #2I – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 1 & 3 to Pedal #2

Tie Top Lamm #1 to Pedal #2

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #2 in Top Lamm #1. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #1 in Pedal 2.

Tie Top Lamm #3 to Pedal #2

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #2 in Top Lamm #3. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #3 in Pedal 2.

Pedal 3

Shaft 1 & 2 raised

J – KTie Bottom Lamm 1 to the Pedal #3
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 3 in #1 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 1 on the Pedal 3Tie Bottom Lamm 2 to Pedal #3
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 3 in #2 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 2 on the Pedal 3I – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 3 & 4 to Pedal #3

Tie Top Lamm #3 to Pedal #3

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #3 in Top Lamm #3. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #3 in Pedal 3.

Tie Top Lamm #4 to Pedal #3

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #3 in Top Lamm #4. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #4 in Pedal 3.

Pedal 4

Shaft 2 & 3 raised

J – KTie Bottom Lamm 2 to the Pedal #4
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 4 in #2 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 2 on the Pedal 4Tie Bottom Lamm 3 to Pedal #4
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 4 in #3 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 3 on the Pedal 4I – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 1 & 4 to Pedal #4

Tie Top Lamm #1 to Pedal #4

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #4 in Top Lamm #1. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #1 in Pedal 4.

Tie Top Lamm #4 to Pedal #4

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #4 in Top Lamm #4. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #4 in Pedal 4.

Pedal 5

Shaft 3 & 4 raised

J – KTie Bottom Lamm 3 to the Pedal #5
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole#5 in #3 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 3 on the Pedal 5Tie Bottom Lamm 4 to Pedal #5
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 5 in #4 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 4 on the Pedal 5I – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 1 & 2 to Pedal #5

Tie Top Lamm #1 to Pedal #5

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #5 in Top Lamm #1. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #1 in Pedal 5.

Tie Top Lamm #2 to Pedal #5

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #5 in Top Lamm #2. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #2 in Pedal 5.

Pedal 6

Shaft 1 & 4 raised

J – KTie Bottom Lamm 1 to the Pedal #6
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 6 in #1 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 1 on the Pedal 6Tie Bottom Lamm 4 to Pedal #6
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 6 in #4 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 4 on the Pedal 6I – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 2 & 3 to Pedal #6

Tie Top Lamm #2 to Pedal #6

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #6 in Top Lamm #2. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #2 in Pedal 6.

Tie Top Lamm #3 to Pedal #6

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #6 in Top Lamm #3. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #3 in Pedal 6.

Done! Now remove all the balancing pegs and test the treadling. If your pedals fall to the floor you will need to adjust the lengths of the cords, shortening them slightly. It may take a bit of adjusting to get this right, but once you have the loom balanced and running, it will be a joy to weave on. Changing tie-ups for different patterns isn’t as difficult as it appears. Often you may only have to change a few of the upper or lower lamm cord.
Double Beam Countermarche Loom

Handbok Iveving
J.W. Carpelens Forlag
CentralTrykkeriet, Oslo
1958
I have added the Red lettering to the diagrams, to help in identifying the tie-ups.

When you tie a countermarche loom, all the ties have to be level. All the cords have to be equal length for each harness. Using Texsolv cord makes this an easier task because you can count the number of loops in the cord and also make small adjustments by moving the pegs up or down one loop. I also use a small carpenters level to check that the harnesses are level. There are 2 types of countermarche looms. One of them (Type A) has 2 sets of levers at the top of the loom that rotate on a center axle. A,B, C. The 2 sets of lamms are of equal length. (I, J)

Type A

Countermarche Loom Type A Tie Up

Start the tie-up from the top of the loom.

There should be a set of stabilizing pins or rods that are placed through the holes at B & C. These pins hold the jacks or levers in place while you set up your loom. These will need to be removed once your loom has been warped. If the pins are missing, a set of knitting needles works well instead. The outer edges of the top levers (B & C) are tied to the outer edges of the top harness.
D & E.

B – D

C – E

A – The 2 edges of the top levers that are in the center are tied to the center hole of the Bottom Lamm – F.

A – F

The bottom harness is tied at the center – G – to the center hole of the Top Lamm.

G – H Thread the loom with a warp, then make the adjustments for the balancing. The warp should run from the back beam to the front beam, through the eye of the heddles. You may need to adjust the height of the harnesses, so that the warp is level. Make adjustments to the length of the cords running between B-D and C-E. Check that the harnesses are level – use a carpenters level to make check this.

The 2 bottom lamms should be level (I & J)- parallel to the floor. You might need to adjust the cords (A-F) and ( G-H) to raise or lower the lamms slightly.

When you are weaving, the loom should operate quietly. If you hear the sound of banging wood, check if the lamms are hitting each other when you change sheds. ( I – J) If so, then you will need to increase the distance between I & J slightly. Do this by shortening the tie-up between E & F. This raises the Top Lamm (I) a bit. You will also need to adjust the length of the tie-up between the Top Lamm and Pedals (lengthen (I – K) to compensate for the adjustment. Once these are tied, you shouldn’t need to tie them again, unless you are adding extra shafts to your loom.

The other type (Type B)has 1 lever in the center and a set of pulleys. The 2 sets of lamms are different lengths – 1 short (I), the other longer (J).

Countermarche Loom – Type B

The other type (Type B) has 1 lever in the center and a set of pulleys. The 2 sets of lamms are different lengths – 1 short (I), the other longer (J).

Countermarche Loom Tie Up – Type B

Start at the top of the loom.

There should be a stabilizing pin or rod that fits through a set of holes near A. This rod holds the jacks or levers in place while you set up your loom. It will need to be removed once your loom has been warped. If the rod is missing, a knitting needle works well instead. Beginning at the top of the loom, one end of the lever is tied to the top shaft of the harness.

A – B

The other end of the lever (the outer edge) C is tied to the end of the bottom Lamm – D. The other end of the bottom lamm is attached to the loom through a rod that runs on the side of the loom.

C – D

The bottom shaft of the harness (E) is attached at the center, to the centre hole of the Top Lamm – F.

E – F Thread the loom with a warp, then make the adjustments for the balancing. The warp should run from the back beam to the front beam, through the eye of the heddles. You may need to adjust the height of the harnesses, so that the warp is level. Make adjustments to the length of the cords running between A and B. Check that the harnesses are level – use a carpenters level to make check this. The 2 bottom lamms should be level (I & J)- parallel to the floor. You might need to adjust the cords (E-F Upper Lamm) and (C – D Lower Lamm) to raise or lower the lamms slightly.

When you are weaving, the loom should operate quietly. If you hear the sound of banging wood, check if the lamms are hitting each other when you change sheds. ( I – J) If so, then you will need to increase the distance between I & J slightly. Do this by shortening the tie-up between E & F. This raises the Top Lamm (I) a bit. You will also need to adjust the length of the tie-up between the Top Lamm and Pedals (lengthen (I – K) to compensate for the adjustment. Once these are tied, you shouldn’t need to tie them again, unless you are adding extra shafts to your loom.