George Howell’s online hub for some of the best single-origin coffees around

Although it’s not until July, the anxiety has begun. My mom has a little summer cabin in upstate New York; I’m not sure if you’ve been to upstate New York, but there’s not a lot of coffee going on. You can buy vacuum-sealed packs of Starbucks at the local Walmart, but it tastes like just that: vacuum-packed coffee that’s been sitting on a shelf forever. My sisters and I visit over the July 4th weekend, and the caffeine situation always disappoints. Last year we made the mistake of having my Aunt Jill bring us beans in from the city. She brought Folgers. Jill will not be bringing coffee again this year. So I’ve decided to be proactive. I’ll obviously bring some beans when I come up–probably Blue Bottle or Four Barrel (who both do shipping, by the way) but I’ve been doing a little research for my mom who will be there all summer and who has resorted to those little instant sleeves of coffee. So Mom, this post’s for you or for anyone who could use some good beans arriving on their doorstep.

Let’s face it: coffee’s come a long way from the days when the gals from Friends had their foamy latte or when picking up a bag of Sumatra on the way home from work felt pretty exotic and edgy. In his recent piece for Time Magazine, Josh Ozersky details where we find ourselves today, the “Third wave” of coffee: buying prized lots of single-origin beans and roasting them less frequently, treating coffee as seasonal, and paying attention to slight nuances in bean selection and roasting technique. Essentially, the artisan roasters I’m about to discuss have left Starbucks in the dust.

And a quick side note: While I’ve tried some of the coffees below, I haven’t sampled all of them. I’ve done some research and talked to coffee folks about the most highly respected roasters and what they’re up to. So this post is really more about options and starting to think about coffee in a new way more than it is a “Best of” piece.

This was my go-to spot when I was in Chicago for a wedding a few summers back. The space itself is stark and modern yet simultaneously warm and inviting. And the espresso is almost sweet on its own. I was hooked. They work closely with the actual coffee producers, not just the importers or exporters, so they control quality from the beginning. While many roasters claim to do this, Intelligentsia is there each month of the year–aiming to forge a true collaboration. Intelligentsia is also known for their adamancy that coffee is seasonal, and they try and educate their consumers daily. As a mass product, so many of us are in the mind-set that good coffee is a year-round crop, and it’s just not. Depending on the origin, the coffee bean is just like any piece of produce at the store: it has its high season. Intelligentsia only wants you to try it then, so you choose your coffee depending on when it was harvested. For this reason, you won’t see twenty different types of coffee on their website: you’ll find a few blends, a few single-origin coffees and two or three reserve coffees.

George Howell’s been on the fine coffee hunt since 1975–some people see him as the trailblazer for sourcing fine boutique lots around the world. The thing that makes Terroir stand out is their firm commitment not to use blends, and their belief that in the same way you wouldn’t mix fine wines, you shouldn’t mix fine quality coffee. Like some of the other roasters listed here, educating the consumer is part of their mission, so they’ve actually created an excellent link page with information on everything from How to Keep Roasted Coffee Fresh to Principles of Brewing Coffee. In their shop, you can search by Region, Top Selling Coffees, Category (Organic, Decaf), or even pick up brewing equipment. When you click on a specific region, Terroir provides an overview of the area, and in-depth information on the coffee beans for purchase. They go farther than typical information about taste and origin, listing considerations like the type of soil, altitude, and farm size. They want the consumer to feel a similar connection with the bean that they initially felt when purchasing it.

Out of Durham, North Carolina, Counter Culture is known for their “micro-lots” and fabulous single-estate coffees. They don’t keep much roasted coffee on hand because they’re adamant about roasting to order and bagging and shipping on the same day. If you happen to live in North Carolina, they extend their mission to create cutting-edge coffee people by offering a variety of coffee courses, from Beginning Espresso Lab to Milk Chemistry Lab. They also offer free weekly cuppings or tastings. For those of us who aren’t so lucky to live close by, they make purchasing online a cinch with brief notes on each coffee, allowing you to search by region (Africa, The Americas…), microlot, or their custom blends (I’ve heard from an old college friend that the Crook’s Corner blend is like nothing else–a little bit sweet and nutty at the same time). For the online or mail-order shopper, they also do Coffee subscriptions.

Sonoma’s artisan coffee roasting company has a thriving online and wholesale business and a cache of major industry awards. Andrew Barnett’s signature organic coffee roaster, custom roasts each batch in the Northern Italian style–with enough time for the flavor profiles to surface but not long enough for bitterness to ensue. All coffees are shipped within 24 hours of roasting–not something that many roasters claim or guarantee these days. On his website, Barnett says, “I like to introduce to people flavors that open them to the world of exemplary coffee…premium coffees that are roasted properly taste great and leave a pleasant sweet aftertaste, similar to great wines and chocolates.” And good news for us: Eater SF reported last month that Ecco is moving to an undisclosed location in Potrero Hill. It’s slated to be a café and roastery, allowing Bay Area folks to taste the sweet, single-origin espresso whenever the urge should strike.

Barefoot is another artisan roaster that’s adamant about seasonality and freshness of the bean. On the landing page of their website, they have a big space advertising a few coffees that are “Fresh Arrivals” and discuss treating coffee like any other high-quality, sought-after kitchen ingredient. Online, they explain the importance of “Realizing that each bean is affected by soil, varietal, processing, farm, elevation, micro-climate and every hand that crafts it, we are determined to let the coffee speak for itself.” They don’t describe their coffees as “dark” or “bold,” but work to actually describe the flavor and essence of each roast. What I really love about Barefoot is their humble, straight-up way of explaining what they do and why they do it. They genuinely believe that good people who love what they do produce good coffee, so they travel to seek those folks out and work to maintain relationships with them. Their motto, “If you love the coffee, it will love you back” just makes sense and translates to whatever business or endeavor you find yourself in. They’re also a recognized leader in sustainable and environmental stewardship, making great strides with green energy, composting, and using a small, local dairy source for their café.

The relatively new online source gathering the best artisan roasters in one place

On some days, I find myself bombarded with irrelevant information and promotions from food PR people. But a few weeks ago, I got a note from GoCoffeeGo just to introduce themselves and tell me what they’re up to. Since then, I’ve basically fallen in love with the site. If you’re not familiar with them, they were founded by local coffee junkies, Scott Pritikin and Elise Papazian, with the goal of bringing together the country’s top award-winning artisan roasters on one site with one stream-lined checkout. The coffee is roasted to order and shipped directly from the roaster to the customer (that being said, the shipping time can vary so if you need it pronto, do a little research on the ETA). It’s kind of like the Amazon of artisan coffees: organized, streamlined, great customer service, and a really good product. The coffee selection is stellar. They carry most of the roasters I mentioned above, but they also carry one of my favorite local roasters, Equator Coffee and Tea out of San Rafael. Other great choices include Ritual, Verve, and Higher Ground.

I appreciate the great advice and links to some of the leading edge of the coffee wave. Coffee over the past 40 years has gone through such a fundamental shift both from the producer/growers side, roastery business and consumer appreciation that staying up to date on the latest thinking is not always an easy thing to do especially for the lay consumer who just wants to be able to get a good cuppa joe. I would add one other roaster, who is larger than the rest of these guys but still adheres to the same principles with which they started operating over 40 years ago. And they are local to the Bay Area! Peet’s Coffee and Tea is always offering fresh coffees from arounnd the world and despite their size are able to maintain a roast to order business because the coffee they roast is all still roasted by hand by very experienced roasters. While I am a full supporter of the amazing businesses pushing the envelope today like Intelli, Stumptown, Ritual, CC etc., we are very lucky to have so many great options out there. Hope everyone finds the cup they enjoy!

There is nothing like having your own fresh roasted coffee in the morning 🙂 What’s the maximum time for coffee to be considered fresh? If I order from overseas, I don’t think after a week I can classify anything as fresh anymore.

I did a class on the history of coffee and can appreciate the new information this article talked about. I’m a Seattle girl and started drinking coffee in middle school and haven’t stopped since. I’ve found another company: http://www.coffeefool.com that will roast it when you order it, then ship out the next day. On my bad days, I might just smell the coffee to cheer myself up. I only wish Dunkin Donuts would do the same as I’m currently Dunkin Donut deprived!! Until I get my Dunkin Donut fix, I’m a Coffee Fool!!

Thank you for posting this. Mail order coffee really is one of the best ways to get fresh coffee at home, shipped same day the coffee is roasted. You’re right, supermarket coffee does taste like it’s been sitting on the shelf forever… usually because it has! Supermarket coffee is typically between 2 and 6 months (and it goes stale about 10-14 days after roasting)!

Ben

Great list, I’d add stumptowncoffee.com and mochajoes.com though. Stumptown is definitely up there with Intelligenstia and the owner of Mocha Joe’s used to work with George Howell of Terroir. Both have some really good coffees that I’d highly recommend trying.

I saw the comment about roasting to order. All of these specialty coffee roasters do that. It’s one of the major things that set specialty coffee roasters apart from big name brands like Starbucks and Dunkin Doughnuts, where the coffee has been sitting in the bag for a while before you even buy it.

‘Fresh coffee’ slogan is ludicrous on a coffee bag with a 6-month expiry date (or longer!). When was the coffee package? Our coffee is roasted on demand and delivered for free to our Australian clients who are discerning coffee connoisseurs. I guess that those who buy slate supermarket coffee are a different target market.

Nicholas Mariani

Very good list of coffee roasters however I must say that it is missing a great one in Sonoma county, Wolf Coffee. Wolf Coffee through it’s ups and downs has always produced a quality product. Wolf’s “roast master” was trained a handful of times by Alfred Pete, founder of Pete’s coffee, for about 5 years and has perfected the art of roasting since 1990. Check out their website wolfcoffee.com.

Wholehearted believer in FRESH roasted coffee. I’d also point out Click Roast Deliver (www.clickroastdeliver.com) – They have direct relationships with artisan Seattle coffee roasters and orders are roasted and shipped directly from the chosen roaster to the customer. I love the cheap/free shipping and the fact that some of these coffee companies don’t sell directly themselves. Another great place to buy fresh roasted coffee online.

Elle Elle

I get my coffee delivered from a company online in Costa RIca called Eco Cafe (www.eco-cafe.com).

For those that are looking for a great tasting brew that’s fair trade AND organic with single serves and bags of coffees. Plus its free shipping here in the USA.

I’m thinking of popping into to see them directly the next time I am in Costa
rica! Great place btw! 🙂

Author

Megan Gordon

Megan Gordon is originally from Eureka, CA although she’s lived in numerous college towns around the country (another story altogether). A freelance food and travel writer, Megan has written for publications like Ready Made Magazine, The San Francisco Examiner, Edible SF and Edible Marin & Wine Country, Olive Oil Times and The San Francisco Bay Guardian. She writes regularly for Apartment Therapy’s The Kitchn and maintains her own local food blog, A Sweet Spoonful. Yes, Megan even tweets @meganjanesf. In addition to writing and photographing food, Megan is the founder (and head baker) of Marge, a Bay Area baking company specializing in classic American pies and nostalgic desserts.