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How to Build a Stroker

This chapter is dedicated to good, solid, reliable engine building technique. Producing this book and others here in Southern California, we’ve been in the company of some of the best engine builders in the world. One of them is John Da Luz of JMC Motorsports in San Diego. John has been building automobiles and the engines that power them for more than 25 years. He enjoys an extraordinary track record as a seasoned engine builder. His experience lives in virtually every kind of racing venue in the world, including top fuel.

We have also had the good fortune of knowing Mark Jeffrey of Trans Am Racing in Gardena, California, who possesses a wealth of experience as a seasoned engine builder, most of it with Fords. These two gentlemen are going to show us the way to solid, reliable power from a small-block Ford.

Engine building technology has made considerable advances over the past 30 years. We’ve learned that it’s the small details that can make or break a project. The two biggest details we can think of are checking clearances and triple-checking your work. Far too many of us learn the hard way because we’re not attentive enough to detail. We learn when an overlooked rod bolt fails half way down the track. And we learn when a carelessly seated valve keeper escapes at high revs, destroying the piston and cylinder wall in less than a second. These are the important details we don’t want you to miss during your budget engine build.

Far too many engine projects fail because there wasn’t proper planning. Planning is the most effective engine-building tool you can have. We waste time and money when we don’t think about what we want the engine to do. Part of building an engine is knowing exactly what you can afford, then not giving in to ego and the temptation. And that’s the mistake a lot of us make along the way. We want to impress our peers. But these are the wrong reasons to build an engine. Don’t build an engine to impress anyone beside yourself, because you alone will have to live with the result.

Building a solid, reliable stroker small-block takes very close attention to detail. Clearances need to be checked and rechecked. Make sure rods, pistons, and crankshaft counterweights clear the block and oil pumps.

Most of us overbuild our engines. We build more engine than our Ford needs, which costs unnecessary time and money. For example, you’re building a classic Mustang and you want it to be fast. You’re thinking of building a 351W stroker displacing 427 cubic inches. Future plans include fuel injection and a supercharger. Just imagine, the power of a big-block in a lightweight classic. Maybe it is more than your Mustang (and your driving skills) can handle. You don’t have to worry about impressing us. We’ve been there too. And we understand the drawbacks of overbuilding. This is why we’re sharing the cold, hard facts of engine building with you.

Too many enthusiasts build more engine than a car can safely handle. When we infuse big displacement power into a lightweight Mustang, Falcon, or Fairlane, we’re not thinking enough about the engine and vehicle as a package. Most of us get it backwards. We build a powerful engine, then we wonder how to manage all that power safely and effectively. Build the car first, then the engine, because too much power in an unprepared platform can get you killed. A well thought-out platform will have good brakes, a handling package, traction enhancement, the right tires and wheels, a rear axle that can take the punishment, and a mature driver who understands all of this.

Our goal is to teach you how to build a reliable engine that you can afford that will make the power you need. No matter what the formula is, one basic formula holds true. Performance level is tied directly to budget. The greater the budget and know-how, the faster you’re going to go. You’re not going to make a 600 horsepower small-block for $2500. Keep your expectations and planning realistic. Then go work your plan with perseverance. Lets get started.

289/302 Stroker Kits & Projects

The marketplace is filled with a wealth of great stroker kits for your 289/302ci engine building project. Which kit you choose depends on your expectations, budget, and needs. This means you have to examine the contents of each kit to determine which kit works for your engine-building project.

Stroker selection depends on your planned mission for the engine. Despite everything you have likely been told in bench racing circles, street engines do not need steel or billet crankshafts. High-nodular iron crankshafts (also known as cast steel) work quite well for street use in applications up to 500 horsepower. If you’re going to supercharge or throw high concentrations of nitrous at your engine, a steel crankshaft becomes mandatory in the interest of engine survival. If you do weekend road racing with your driver, a steel crank is good life insurance for your engine. Weekend drag racers don’t always need a steel crankshaft because the high-stress experience is brief, unless you are using nitrous or supercharging.

Choosing a connecting rod is right in there with choosing a crankshaft. If you’re going to go with H-beam rods, then you will likely go with a steel or billet crank. For cast steel or nodular iron cranks, sportsman level I-beam rods will work just fine. Each kit listing is specific about the type of connecting rod and crankshaft used. Most stroker-kit manufacturers have this packaging process down to a science. Connecting rods and crankshafts tend to be quite compatible in most of these kits.

Piston selection boils down to the type of driving you’re going to do. Warmed up street engines really don’t need forged pistons. If seat-of-the-pants torque is what you are seeking from your street small block, you can get away with using hypereutectic pistons. Opt for forged pistons if you are going to supercharge or use nitrous. Forged pistons for powerful street engines don’t make much sense in terms of cost and engine noise. Forged pistons have more unforgiving expansion properties. It takes a forged piston more time to expand as the engine warms. Forged pistons also expand more than cast or hypereutectic pistons, which means they need greater clearances. This is why forged pistons tend to rattle in cold engines.

Most of the following stroker kits are available as published. But most manufacturers will allow you to custom tailor your stroker kit. Coast High Performance, for example, will package a stroker kit any way you desire as long as it makes good sense. Plus, they will advise you along the way.The following stroker kits are listed how they were available at the time of printing. Not all of these kits will forever remain the same. Kits are developed and kits are dropped from time to time, depending on availability and consumer demand. In our description of each of these kits, we are completely frank about the kit described. We are not at the mercy of advertising dollars and will tell it just like it is.

Bore: 4.030”Stroke: 3.125”Crankshaft: Nodular Iron 302Rod Type: EagleRod Length: 5.400”Rod Ratio: 1.72:1Pistons: VenoliaRings: Speed-ProBearings: Federal-MogulMax. RPM: 6,500Max. HP: 500Approx. Price: $2,000.00Comments: This kit has a good rod ratio and is good for a few extra horses. But this is not a kit you want to use with nitrous or supercharging. This kit is good for a strong, naturally-aspirated street engine.

Have you been dreaming about a little extra displacement for your Ford? By increasing the bore and stroke of your current engine, you can add those cubic inches without the hassle of switching to a big block. George Reid thoroughly explains the concept of building a stroker, paying special attention to the effect that increasing the bore and stroke have on the engine as a whole. With this information, you’ll be better able to tailor your heads, cam, intake manifold, carburetor, and exhaust system to get the most out of the extra cubes. Also included is a complete guide to factory head and block castings, as well as aftermarket block and head guides, so you can choose exactly the right parts for your project. This book is the definitive guide for building a big-inch Ford small block, complete with four engine buildups ranging from 331 to 408 cubic inches. Read the sample pages to learn more!

How to Rebuild the Small Block Ford
This 144 page book guides you step by step througha
rebuild, including: planning, disassembly andinspection,
choosing the right parts, machine work,assembling your
engine, first firing and break-in. It alsogives you helpful hints
and tips on performanceupgrades, including cams, heads,
ignition, induction,and more. It also points out problem areas
to watch for,professional builder tips, jobs that need special
care orspecial tools, and more. Includes 495 color photos
andcovers the Ford 289, 302, 351W, 351C, 351M and 400.

Price:$
22.95

The Step by Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting
Practical methods for racing and rebuilding, selectingand preparing parts, and how to buy machine shop work.This completely revised and updated version containingan additional 32 pages is simply the best book you canbuy on engine preparation for street or racing! EngineBlueprinting shows the reader how to use precisionmeasuring tools,
calculate compression ratios, degree acamshaft, and much more!

Price:$
19.95 Out of Stock

How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8s on a Budget
This book addresses high-performance V-8 enginessuch as the 289, 302, 351ci small-blocks found inMustangs, as well as the FE series of big-blocks.Emphasis throughout is a budget approach to buildinghigh performance power plants through the use ofover-the-counter factory components and selectedaftermarket pieces. Includes realistic, low-cost formulasfor building serious horsepower in Ford V-8 engines.

Price:$
22.95

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