Update: I've officially purchased just about everything that's missing or broken with interior and exterior. Parts are trickling in today's arrival!

All I have left are sunroof motor cover which I'm going to have to settle for a new one in beige and re-spray it, windshield, dash vents, cluster screw covers and radio bezel. Buying all of this stuff new.

Update: I've officially purchased just about everything that's missing or broken with interior and exterior. Parts are trickling in today's arrival!

All I have left are sunroof motor cover which I'm going to have to settle for a new one in beige and re-spray it, windshield, dash vents, cluster screw covers and radio bezel. Buying all of this stuff new.

Originally Posted by dogger

... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.

Ok now that the car will be 100% cosmetically soon, it's time to talk engine.

Regardless of anything I do, I am going 3.1l based on the cars history. I am not pulling my engine and rebuilding it but rather building another one.

Let's discuss the 3.1l topic. I probably will never get an ABT crankshaft so I was thinking 2.9l ABV crankshaft in an AAA block. Any other options? If this is the best way to go, what is needed to get to 3.1? Are we talking just choice of pistons?

FV-QR

Personally I'd stay away from 3.1 on the 12v. It leaves the cly walls awfully thin. The cost of doing it isn't going to give you much gain performance wise, just taking a risk with reliability. If you go that route, do a 3.4l r32 motor and put some time/$ into the head. You can prob hit 300's fairly easy. Its a simple/straightforward swap..not like going 3.6 w/ fsi etc. Bang for buck, the 12v just don't cut it n/a, no way around it. Its your car and build so ultimately its your call... but id love to see an n/a motor that actually produces in that thing. Worked R motor with close ratio gearbox + lugtronic will be ****in boss. Keep at it brother!

I do not understand why some coupes make the grade and others do not. Everyone knows, for instance, that the Corrado was as tasty as an East End prize fighter with the looks of a Benetti super-yacht. The four-cylinder was good, but the VR6 was about as close as you could get to Ferraridom without buying a Ferrari. And what happened? You all went to the pub instead. -Jeremy Clarkson-

Personally I'd stay away from 3.1 on the 12v. It leaves the cly walls awfully thin. The cost of doing it isn't going to give you much gain performance wise, just taking a risk with reliability. If you go that route, do a 3.4l r32 motor and put some time/$ into the head. You can prob hit 300's fairly easy. Its a simple/straightforward swap..not like going 3.6 w/ fsi etc. Bang for buck, the 12v just don't cut it n/a, no way around it. Its your car and build so ultimately its your call... but id love to see an n/a motor that actually produces in that thing. Worked R motor with close ratio gearbox + lugtronic will be ****in boss. Keep at it brother!

The 3.1 Uses the same pistons as a 2.9 (82MM). Stock 2.8 Bore is 81MM. The added displacement is from the Crank.
Using an .:R32 Crank would net the same .2 Liter Displacement increase netting a 3.1L (with 2.9L Pistons)

Building a 3.4L 24V will max out the walls as far as tolerances. (If using a 3.2L)

Now getting a Euro 3.2 (10.6 Degree VR) That can be bored to 3.6 Safely. Trying to get one of those motors is a BEOTCH.

Originally Posted by HavokRuels

Thanks bro this has been so much fun so far. What's the safest bore for a 2.8l setup?

The 3.1 Uses the same pistons as a 2.9 (82MM). Stock 2.8 Bore is 81MM. The added displacement is from the Crank.
Using an .:R32 Crank would net the same .2 Liter Displacement increase netting a 3.1L (with 2.9L Pistons)

Building a 3.4L 24V will max out the walls as far as tolerances. (If using a 3.2L)

Now getting a Euro 3.2 (10.6 Degree VR) That can be bored to 3.6 Safely. Trying to get one of those motors is a BEOTCH.

Turbo Choice
Stock is the only safe 2.8L Bore. lol

Ok r32 crankshaft is doable along with 2.9l aftermarket pistons block bored to 82mm but what are we talking for connecting rods? Thought the 2.8l pistons stuck out more than 5mm with an r32 crankshaft so wouldn't the 2.9l pistons do the same?

.:R32 Rods are the same length as 12V. So the Wrist Pin on the piston must be moved back to compensate for the srtoke and a shorter overall piston. Someone at JE is most likely to have that piston design done prior to you, or check with other manufacturers.

.:R32 Rods are the same length as 12V. So the Wrist Pin on the piston must be moved back to compensate for the srtoke and a shorter overall piston. Someone at JE is most likely to have that piston design done prior to you, or check with other manufacturers.

Yeah I saw something about JE when I searched. Overall it seems easily doable. Gonna hit up JE and pick their brain on that. Just have to figure out what rods to go with since they are the same. Anyone here have a brand preference based on performance not worried about price.

On a side note, b pillars, drivers a pillar and all the rest of the trim pieces for the interior came in.

So now I am eagerly awaiting my gauge faces from James and I can finish the interior 100%

Pulled apart the center console and some of the dash. Not as bad as I thought but the shifter needs a major overhaul. Dash wiring is almost unmolested but the center bezel and cluster surround have to go.

The heater controls don't work properly and might as well leave it all apart for when the spoonfed gauge faces come in.

Ordering a new center bezel, heater/ac controls, gauge surround, screw covers, heat vents and what ever it takes to get this back to 100%

I would have held off on coilovers had I known the rats nest waiting behind such clean looking dash and shift boot lol