Tag Archives: fly tying

While epoxy is a well known fly tying material, it has been scarcely used because it was a real pain in the you-know-what. It was like trying to juggle within a time limit. You have to mix it, hope you got the proportions right, then hurry and get it in place all the while keeping the fly spinning so that gravity didn’t mess up the application. Even if all that went right, often times the epoxy would yellow. No wonder we avoided it.

Enter Clear Cure Goo (CCG). It is hard to sit down at the vice and not use some form of it over the course of a tying session, whether it is filling gaps in a head, making a fly more durable or simply finishing a fly to have a nice clean look. This product is everything that you love about epoxy without everything that you hate about epoxy. There is no time limit, simply apply the product and get it into place, then when you are ready…hit it with the UV light and you are done. The epoxy is cured within seconds and you are free to keep tying!

Here is a quick rundown of all the CCG products:

Clear Cure Goo Thick – One of the original CCG products, the Thick is awesome for building up heads, filling in gaps or any other time you need the epoxy to take up space. While it is thick, it will still lay down nicely to create very clean finishes. The original CCG Thick will have a slight tack to it, even after it is cured making it great for applying eyes, etc. Once the fly is done, a quick coat of Hard as Nails will make it complete.

Clear Cure Goo Thin – The perfect complement to CCG Thick, the Thin flows and spreads better than Thick. It is great for coverage (like big saltwater heads, poppers, etc.). I personally have used the thick to fill a gap on a big bucktail streamer head and then used the thin to complete the entire head. CCG can take a bad head and make it look great.

Clear Cure Goo Brushable – Similar in consistency to the Thin, the Brushable applicator brush makes it great for coverage situations, like Crease flies and other big poppers. It is also amazingly useful for epoxy back nymphs, etc.

Clear Cure Goo Flex – This is something that epoxy could never do! Apply CCG Flex anywhere you want, cure it and you now have a flexible shape that wants to return back to its original cured shape. Think about all the soft plastic applications with this one. Another amazing use I have found for it is making a foul guard on long materials. Simply apply CCG flex to the material from the bend of the hook to about and inch beyond and it will still move without fouling when cast.

Clear Cure Goo Curing Light – The piece that brings it all together. Simply work your CCG material of choice into place, then BAM, hit it with the light for a few seconds and you are done. The material will not move and you can go on with your life not stressing about your epoxy curing.

Clear Cure Goo Tips – Seems like such a minor thing, but these tips make a major difference. They help with finer applications and can also be used to move and smooth the epoxy into place. The tips are sold in sets with 2 straight, 2 standard curved and 2 fine curved.

Clear Cure Goo Kit – A great starting place for anyone looking to start using CCG. The kit includes the Curing Light, 2 Tips and Covers, 1 tube of Thick and 1 tube of Thin.

Clear Cure Goo Tack Free Hydro – Hydro has the same consistency of head cement, so it is a great material for securing the base of a large clump of materials (bucktail, etc.) or for giving your perfect head a nice clean coat for durability and presentation.

Clear Cure Goo Fleck – Now we are talking…want to give your flies a little more flash and sparkle? CCG Fleck has flecks of gold, silver, green and blue pearlescent glitter. All that and all the features of CCG. Awesome.

Clear Cure Eyes – The newest product. These look awesome and will likely cause a few more fish to fall prey to our streamers. Available very, very soon.

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Any products that are not linked will be available in the next few weeks!

The idea of using tying materials to enhance a fly pattern’s effectiveness is as ancient as the inception of fly tying. In fact, it could be argued that the practice of manipulating both old and new materials in different ways into both old and new fly patterns comprises a large part of modern fly innovation. Considering this, one might ask, “How many ways can you tie fluff on a hook?” Good point; but personally, I am continually surprised by new innovations in fly tying. For example, consider the CDC & Quill Parawulff. Quill bodies have been around for a long time–and still are, because they catch “both fish and fishermen.” Two other notable influences of this pattern stem from Hans Weilenmann’s CDC & Elk Caddis and Jack Dennis’ parawulffs. It seems that Weilenmann prefers caddis. I like them too–but prefer to fish mayflies; so I followed his lead and incorporated CDC in my mayfly designs. In other words, none of the components in this design are original. However, the pattern combines such trout-catching triggers as the distinct hair-wing profile with the wispy movement of CDC. The parawulff style hackle allows the fly to ride flush in the surface film.

I believe that a large part of my enjoyment of fishing comes through sharing my experience and knowledge with others. Subsequently, maybe these ideas will spark an interest in you to make pattern modifications of your own, because I believe more interest in the sport will ultimately benefit fly fishing as a whole.

Tying Guidelines:
Tie in some calf hair wings in the Jack Dennis Parawulff style. The wings in this illustration were tied in order to exaggerate this innovative wing style.

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Next, tie in the tail and secure a quill for the body.

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Wrap the quill body and secure & trim the excess. Sparingly place a couple drops of cement over the quill. Then make a waxed dubbing loop, insert some CDC fibers, and twist this into a rope. Weilenmann uses the whole CDC feather, and this is an outstanding method for imitating caddis. However, mayflies usually have slim abdomens, but the bulging thorax–where the legs are–is a good place to integrate CDC. Besides, I believe the loop creates a little less bulk.A

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Wrap the CDC loop on the thorax to the wing, but no further. Then secure a hackle.

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Wrap the hackle down the post like a parachute pattern, and secure it in front of the wing.

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Finish the thorax with a couple turns of the CDC loop in front of the wing and tie it down. Wrap the head and whip finish. CDC notoriously soaks up head cement, so cement the head sparingly and carefully.

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Dressing:Hook: your favorite dry fly hook, 10-18.Wings: white calf tail tied in the parawulff style.Tail: hair or hackle fibers; color that matches the naturals.Abdomen: Quill fibers that match naturals; soak them overnight before tying.Thorax: Influenced by the Hans Weilenmann CDC & Elk Caddis. Secure some CDC fibers in a waxed dubbing loop and twist this into a rope, then wrap the thorax.Hackle: Use your favorite color, or match the naturals. Make a few wraps around the wing post in the Jack Dennis parawulff style.

I had a lot of success with Magpie Nymphs. However, unlike its dry counterpart; the mosquito, a Magpie Nymph does not imitate a mosquito very well. But this got me to thinking, “What wet fly does?” Besides, the best places I knew of to fish for trout had lots of mosquitos. I noticed in the horse trough that the larvae had only a few distinguishable features. For example, the ones near the surface had a visible gas bubble, and they also had segmentation, but were so small that there didn’t seem to be much else to them. Nevertheless, I observed that many larvae would hang vertically from the water’s surface, but I knew my Magpies did not. I wanted a pattern that could mimic the larvae’s nautical attitude in the water. By nautical attitude, I mean how the fly may float, drift, navigate, or is positioned in the water column. I also liked the effectiveness of bead heads, but was uncertain with how the heavy weighted bead on a BH nymph may cause the pattern to ride with the head in a downward bearing, and the aft end slanting up. I wished to maintain the effectiveness of a bead head, but I also wanted to manipulate its up-and-down position, thereby more closely imitating a natural.

I sought to employ my patterns’ nautical attitude as a “trigger” for its effectiveness, and this gives the design its name. I also enjoyed the success of the old miracle nymph, or the more modern zebra midge or snow cone, but I wanted to modify my patterns to more closely imitate a mosquito or chironomid larvae. The nautical attitude of the naturals is often in the noted vertical position. In the article, Midge Fishing in Paradise, Brant Oswald agrees that, “…midge pupae often rise to the surface at dusk and hang vertically just under the surface film…” Apparently I’m not the only one that has contemplated strategies for imitating surface-hanging midges.

Some of my more recent patterns employ a plastic bead for the gas bubble (which floats), with an ultra wire rib and/or a metal bead on the rear for my deep patterns; but a horse hair or thread rib for the surface-hanging pupa. Consequently, I found that the plastic beads do not float well enough to consistently hold the pattern near the surface, so I’ve been experimenting with different materials for some time. Subsequently, while browsing through the bait section at Wal-Mart, I spied some 1/8” diameter bobber stops. Understand now that I was merely walking THROUGH the bait section–not shopping, so I don’t want to hear it.

Nevertheless, the old standbys—spun deer or antelope hair, continue to be a viable solution. So, these alternatives will have to suffice until I can talk Brian Westover and Westwater Products into making Unibobbers specifically for tying small flies…

A key feature of some of these designs incorporates one wrap of ultra wire on the rear of the hook for nautical ballast. The remainder of the fly is then ribbed with a lighter material. The weight of the hook bend also serves as counterweight. When cast, this pattern plops down under water, then the floating bead “bobs” it back to the surface, which effectively imitates an emerging insect. The bead in one of the photo examples is a painted bobber stop.

Hook: Mustad 94842, TMC 101 or similar work well.Bead(s): use a plastic bead or bobber for the head, and/or a metal bead for the rear. The theory is that this configuration gives the pattern its head-up and tail-down nautical attitude in the water column.Abdomen: White or translucent threadRib: One wrap of ultra wire on the rear, and thread or horse hair for the rest of the fly.

I enjoyed a lot of success as a kid one summer with a traditionally tied mosquito dry fly, but then one day it stopped working, just like that. Ah, such is trout fishing! Further observation revealed that the fish had switched to sub-surface feeding, so I was forced into fishing nymphs. I caught a few fish with a hare’s ear, but thought that I could have achieved more success with a nymph that featured the same color scheme as the mosquito dry, since the trout were already keyed into that. Therefore, I designed a nymph that was comprised of white and black, like the dry. I used to call it the Grizzly Nymph, which delineates the color scheme of the popular barred rock feathers, as well as the colors of the traditional dry mosquito dressing. More recently I refer to it as the Magpie Nymph, since these birds offer good wing case material. The design is actually the same as any other nymph pattern, aside from color. Consequently, I think the eye-catching color contrast is what makes the pattern successful. Since a standard nymph pattern does not look much like a mosquito larvae, I did not want to call it a mosquito nymph. I’ve been fishing with this fly since the 80’s. Subsequently, the pattern is so simple and effective that I’ve often wondered why it had not been popularized much earlier.

Dressing guidelines:Hook: your favorite nymph hookBead: (optional) white, black, or silver bead.Thread: Black with white bead, or vice versa; 6/0 or 8/0.Abdomen: white and black ultra wire, wrapped together; or one strand each of black and white dubbing.Ribbing (optional): silver wire or tinselThorax: white and black dubbing mixture; maintain either mostly white or mostly black in the mixture, or, like the abdomen, twist a white and a black dubbing strand separately, then wrap them together. If black & white are blended 50% each, the outcome tends to be more gray in appearance than grizzly.Wing case: white & black barred feather section; or latex or other synthetic material speckled with a permanent marker.Hackle/legs: (optional) grizzly hen, or another black & white barred feather such as guinea, starling or partridge.Author’s note: I have also found it useful to focus individual patterns with either the white or the black. For example, a predominantly black pattern should be highlighted by white streaks, or vice versa. Along these lines, a mostly black wing case should be contrasted against a white thread head.

Hook: 10-18 TMC 205 BL or similar; a slightly curved, down-eye hook works well.Head: Spun, clipped deer or antelope hair.Wings: tie calf body wings with the tips pointing forward, towards the hook eye; spun hair forms a base in front of the wings.Tail: antron or similar for trailing shuck, or mono dropper loop.Thread: Use your favorite thread color and body material; they should match the naturals.Body: Use your favorite thread color and body material; they should match the naturals.Hackle: Color should match naturals; wrap it as illustrated, through the trimmed path, behind the wings, and under the hook—in front of the clipped hair.

Step 1: Mount and wrap the thread; then spin a clump of deer, elk, or antelope hair on the front of the hook as shown. Trim the hair to imitate the bulging thorax of an emerging insect.

Step 2: Tie a pair of calf hair wings behind the spun hair. After separating these with figure 8 wraps, instead of standing the wings upright, let them slant forward over the spun deer. The wing angle is a key for the configuration of this pattern.

Step 3: After trimming the wing butts, cover them with thread wraps. Tie in the tail. Since this is an emerger, I like an antron trailing shuck. In this instance, I tied in yellow mono which doubles as a dropper loop.

Step 4: Attach and wrap the body material.

Step 5: Tie off the body and complete it with a whip finish near the base of the wings. Cut the thread. Dab a little head cement over the knot at the wing base for stability.

Step 6: Carefully trim & part the hackle path through the spun hair on both sides of the fly, from behind the eye under the hook, toward the back of the wings as shown.

Step 7: Re-attach tying thread just behind the hook eye. Then secure the hackle under the hook & in front of the spun hair.

Step 8: Wrap the hackle two or three times through the near path, behind the wings, through the opposite path, and in front of the spun hair. The angle in which the hackle is secured positions the fly in the surface film with a bearing or nautical attitude that imitates a natural emerger.

Step 9: Wrapping the hackle through the path creates a durable, highly buoyant emerger pattern, as can be observed from the underside view.

Remember the emerger pattern craze that erupted in the 90’s? Me too! I jumped on board with everyone else, tying and fishing emergers–catching trout that had become “standard-dry shy.” However, after a few years of this, I grew tired of rigging a two-fly setup, or managing strike indicators, for an emerger pattern that sat partially on the surface. I yearned for the old days when I fished a dry fly on top, where I could see the fish take the fly. Fly fishing has always been very visual to me. I found myself drawn by memories of seeing a trout inhale a dry attractor pattern off the surface.

Therefore, I set out to design a pattern that combined the effectiveness of an emerger with the visibility characteristics of a dry fly. My first few designs worked well, and I have seen similar ideas from other tiers in magazines and on the web. After years of experimentation, including several as a professional river guide, I had an epiphany for a design that fit the bill, and it has been very effective for me. I coined the design the Bridle Path Emerger, because of its similarities with manipulating horse hair to accommodate the animals’ bridle.

Tying tip: under sizing the hackle one hook size will compensate for the bulk of the spun hair for more refined patterns.

Hackle: color should match naturals; wrap it as illustrated, through the trimmed path, behind the wings, and under the hook—in front of the clipped hair.

Remember the emerger pattern craze that erupted in the 90’s? Me too! I jumped on board with everyone else, tying and fishing emergers–catching trout that had become “standard-dry shy.” However, after a few years of this, I grew tired of rigging a two-fly setup, or managing strike indicators, for an emerger pattern that sat partially on the surface. I yearned for the old days when I fished a dry fly on top, where I could see the fish take the fly. Fly fishing has always been very visual to me. I found myself drawn by memories of seeing a trout inhale a dry attractor pattern off the surface.

Therefore, I set out to design a pattern that combined the effectiveness of an emerger with the visibility characteristics of a dry fly. My first few designs worked well, and I have seen similar ideas from other tiers in magazines and on the web. After several years of experimentation, including several as a professional riverguide, I had an epiphany for a design that fit the bill, and has been very effective for me. I coined the design the Bridle Path Emerger, because of it’s similarities with manipulating horse hair to accommodate the animals’ bridle.

When Senyo’s Laser Yarn first hit the market I snatched some up and hit the vise. Great product and I really dig the concept. But there were a few things I wasn’t quite stoked on like color options, the flash used and the short wispy yarn like base. So as always my first thought was “make your own”. But we all know how easy blending long natural fibers with synthetics or flash can be. Until now I just blended small amounts by hand like everyone else since all other methods either tangle of break the fibers. It was a tedious method and I hated it so my mind started to chew on a better method. Then bam, while thinking I needed to brush the dog it hit me, what about working two brushes like paddles against each other hopefully aligning and blending the fibers together without tangles or broken fibers? Within 5 minutes I had a ziplock bag full of the good stuff and haven’t looked back since.

Tying desk, dungeon, fly lair, man cave, the place you lock yourself in away from the kids and wife. What ever you call it you probably spend too much time there as do I. If you’re going to spend that much time somewhere you might as well make it a nice place to be. Ya know maybe add some nice lighting or a place to store some tasty malted beverages close to hand? Over the years my fly room has changed and morphed to improve productivity and comfort. Here are the top 10 essentials at my desk. I didn’t include music because that is a absolute must and a given! May I recommend some Black Keys or a little Black Sabbath?

Griffin Montana Mongoose: I tied for years on a Renzetti until I got some vise time on a Mongoose 3 years back. I’ve been tying on one ever since and haven’t looked back. From sub 20’s all the way up to 8/0 hooks I’ve never had a problem with holding power. Considering it comes with a stem extension, c-clamp, pedestal base, a supreme bobbin and a hackle gauge I’d say it’s also one of the best values in vise out as well.

Clear Cure Goo: Because epoxy or a UV curing adhesive is a must at the tying desk. And if you’re going to have one you might as well have the best. The best part is that it comes in flexible, thick, thin, brush-able and a few different kinds of tack free.

Yarn indicator brush: I use this tool as much or more than anything else at the vise. It’s the ultimate tool for picking and teasing out materials.

Loctite: Almost every fly I tie gets some loctite somewhere. I use it to prevent flash from fouling, glue in a rattle, stick on some eyes or finish a head.

Ottlite: Probably one of my favorite things in the tying dungeon! Errrr um I mean favorite 3 things now that I’ve added a couple since the first. There is nothing worse than tying under some dim cheap light at night matching colors for hours just to find out when you get on the water the next morning to find out all the colors are off. Natural is key while at the vises!

Box of Sharpies: I color a lot of materials in my flies. Foam to craft fur I’ve found sharpies to be extremely effect and color fast.

Gamakatsu B10’s hooks: In my opinion one of the best tying hooks ever made. I go through them in 100 packs and they are my default hook for streamers. Extremely sharp, strong and a excellent gape there isn’t much more you ask for out of this hook. Well except maybe some 3/0 – 6/0 since the largest is a 2/0.

30 Lb Fluorocarbon: This is my go to for junctions on my articulated flies. I also use it for weed-guards, body extensions and making eyes.

Henckles 3” embroidery scissors: By far the best tying scissors I’ve found. Period end of story!

I developed this baitfish pattern while fishing for late season Wipers. In the fall they feed heavily on gizzard shad and often times form surface boils. Even though it’s a total feeding frenzy they get selective on size and profile, especially later on in the season after they’ve been heavily pressured by conventional tackle anglers with plugs and large crank baits. Many of my friends do well on EP and Clouser Minnow but thats a little to plain jane for me and I prefer a pattern with maximum movement at rest as well on the move. This patter proved extremely effect and can be tied in any size, color or profile to match any bait fish you’d like to imitate.

Doctors Orders: Take one Ambien (a sleeping pill with apparently some side effects) before bedtime and tie a fly while you sleep.

Apparently, I did just that. I awoke to find this little size #18 baetis nymph in my vise. Different from the baetis I normally tie, I vaguely remember dreaming about tying this fly and blending the dubbing to form the thorax. Sure enough, the thorax is blended just as I remember in the dream.