Virtual Texas with a Charleston crowd

The Vibe

The Food

The Drinks

The Staff

Our Review

So, what makes this spot so special?Chances are, you've heard tales (accompanied with wide eyes for emphasis) about the melt-in-your mouth beef brisket, but walk into to Lewis Barbecue, and you realize it's so much more. Essentially, it's a form of transported Texas culture, from the custom-built smokers to the open breezeway design of the bar, to the agua freca and beers atop it. Light and airy in contrast to the heavy-hitting trays of food passing you, it's a space that invites you to stay a while, hang out in the courtyard, and take pics next to the huge cow mural. You've landed somewhere else, though you thought you were in Charleston.

I love barbecue. What's the thing to get?At Lewis', it's all about the tray, and once you go through the line, chances are you will have one stacked with hedonistic glory, from brisket to hot guts sausage, with some pulled pork and smoked turkey piling up, too. As for the sides, any will do, but the green chile corn pudding is as much of a requirement for diners as the beef brisket.

Done. And what should we drink?You'd be hard-pressed to find someone drinking wine here, though it does happen, and six are offered by the glass. Still, the food screams for a good beer or a light cocktail, and there are 10 beers available by the pint or pitcher, as well as 13 by the can. Classic margaritas or spiked agua frescas also are available as singles or pitchers.

Great. How's the service?One of the best parts of the experience are the staff, who slice and portion your meats on the plate. They're quick to offer a sample, suggestion, or lay "just one more slice" on your tray before you leave their station. It feels fun, like a friendly picnic for a meat-loving club.

Bottom line: worth it?This is a place to indulge, so probably not best for vegetarians or anyone on a diet. Who you should invite, though, are the people you'd invite to your house for a casual cookout, or someone who understands the definition of "meat sweats."