I was lured over the Normanskill and into Delmar by word of Extra Napkin, a Euro-flavored burger-grill-salad joint. Images have circulated on social media of smiling Extra Napkin customers clamping padlocks onto wires mounted on the restaurant's walls, so I'm navigating a little strip plaza opposite Hannaford on Delaware Avenue.

It might sound disingenuous to review a restaurant so clearly geared for takeout. Guests pop in for fresh-pressed raw juices ordered by number (the amount of fiery ginger in my No. 7 could put hair on your chest), and demolish burgers in speedy lunch-break bites. There are just two small tables, a handful of seats, no bathroom for patrons (you can go next door), and service is at the counter with fast-food menus overhead. Entering, you pass a curious scene: a bicycle, painted white, beside a whitewashed bench, is there not in tribute to some unlucky cyclist but as a symbol of welcome. Such are the details. Walk through the doors, and it's clear Extra Napkin hinges on a whole lot of love.

You've seen European bridges bristling, sometimes to the point of structural fatigue, with padlocks of love. For $2.50 you can tether your affections to wires rigged to Extra Napkin's walls while absorbing the Euro-pop and Ecstacy-laced Ibiza anthems keeping the kitchen on its feet. The cabled trusses of the Brooklyn Bridge stretch from floor to ceiling in mega digital graphics and storm cloud gray paint pops with Marvel comic art and a stenciled sign urging you to, "Lock up your love and go and throw away the key."

The love is sincere. Ayhan and Tony Celik, Turkish brothers who bought neighboring Mercato's Pizzeria in 2008, have joined forces with their sister Aynur Celik Kildiz, a digital design major, and brother-in-law, Sedad Kildiz. The result is a fast-food New York-Euro-Middle Eastern mash-up that happily romps beyond American hot dogs and fries into the healthier realm of build-your-own salads, wraps and a raw juice bar, and posits American burgers beside kofte and kebabs.

Price ratings for inexpensive eateries based on average of entrée costs:

$: $9.95 and less

$$: $9.95-$15.95

$$$: $15.95 and higher

After eight years running Mercato's, the brothers Celik (sounding fantastically like characters from a Hans Christian Anderson fairy tale) are confident they know neighborhood tastes and Extra Napkin will fill the gaps. Chef Ayhan Celik, a graduate of Schenectady County Community College culinary arts and hospitality management programs, is the man behind the flavor profiles of scratch burgers and Mediterranean cold-meat wraps affectionately named after local towns. Roast beef and mustard sounds familiar in the Selkirk wrap ($8.99) until you find it's rolled up with cream cheese, onions and tomatoes in a vaguely Middle Eastern twist.

There's European union in homemade hummus and tzatziki, skewered kebabs and the sight of pretty French macarons ($3.99 for four) in a cake stand on the counter. The thick-cut fries, crisp with fluffy soft middles, are chip-shop perfection unless Mickey D's is your benchmark. Extra Napkin stops short of offering gyros or falafel but, with the menu still in its soft-testing phase, they may yet come.

This isn't the place for juicy, urban, artisanal burgers, though meals do come out on the almost mandatory hip metal trays. We bite into densely compact patties, cooked through and cradled in shiny brioche buns slightly too big for the job. It occurs to me the beef is as firmly pressed as the lamb kofte — the ground meats are from Ferraro Foods in New Jersey — but with toppings cleverly layered on the bottom the catcher's mitt bun holds everything in. (To me this was as much a revelation as learning monkeys open bananas from the non-stalk end.)

The Delmar ($6.99) is an American classic with lettuce, ketchup and pickles; the Albany ($6.99) is stacked with caramelized onions and mushrooms. Both are slathered in Extra Napkin's top-secret sauce, a cross-cultural blend of mayo, ketchup and seven seasonings with the blue-collar star power of Thousand Island dressing. The Lark ($5.99), a ground chicken burger, is breaded, deep-fried and finished on the grill with surprisingly crisp and juicy results. It's all wonderfully sloppy and deserving of the extra napkin dispensers on every table.

No need to analyze the finer points of frozen boneless chicken wings shaken into the fryer from a food-service bag, though the $9.71 price tag, with tax, seems steep. Compare that to the kofte and kebab mixed grill that comes with rice, pita bread, hummus and a colorful salad, in all a veritable one-person bonanza for $12.99.

You couldn't ask for a friendlier crew. Catch anyone's eye and they want to know how you're enjoying the food. Even as the music makes it fractionally hard to chat, the smiling team is grooving away, wiping down counters and squeezing the life out of fruit and veg in a whinnying industrial press. It's a bit like Europeans in skinny jeans and New York T-shirts, an endearing embrace of the Empire State. This kind of (mostly) fresh fast food could be love at first bite.

Susie Davidson Powell is a freelancer writer from East Greenbush. Follow her on Twitter, @SusieDP. To comment on this review, visit the Table Hopping blog, blog.timesunion.com/tablehopping.