Our Review

This outpost of the Dallas-based gelato chain performs a daily production miracle, churning out 30 to 40 fresh traditional and modern flavors from a master list of 270, some of them fascinating (Blackberry Cabernet, Latte Menta), others just plain audacious (Blueberry Lavender Chocolate Chip, Gold Fish). I don't think corporate--or at least this Lakeview location--has quite reached the optimal ideal of franchise-style consistency; some flavors turn out remarkably smooth and silky, others are grainy and broken. But as long as customers make judicious use of the tasting spoons, frequent turnover virtually assures a good ratio of quality flavor to failure. I'm particularly taken by the chocolate jalapeño, smooth with just a slight afterburn; Amarena black cherry swirl, with imported cherries suspended in a luxuriant matrix; and an intensely floral if gritty violet. Among value-added preparations such as sundaes and shakes, the ridiculously sybaritic affogato--two or three scoops drowned in hot espresso--is the way to go.