On April 18, H&M kicked off a major project intended to collect 1,000 tons of used clothes, called World Recycle Week. This event coincides with Fashion Revolution Week.

H&M has tried to be a front-runner in the sustainable fashion space through its Conscious collection, ad campaigns and garment collection program, offering discounts to those who donate their old clothes at its stores. While some have lauded the company’s efforts, which have outpaced other similar fashion brands, critics question whether these efforts are enough to combat the company’s fast fashion mainstream offerings or whether they are just greenwashing.

Lucy Siegle, a journalist at The Guardian pointed out that based on the use of current technology, it would likely take H&M up to 12 years to use just 1,000 tons of clothing waste, a volume of clothing it products it regularly produces in under a week. Kirsten Brodde of Greenpeace has pointed out that of the 1,000 tons of clothing to be collected, a very small portion can actually be used as recycled fibres. Meanwhile had the company offered garment repair services, they may have had a larger impact.

However, the question is whether a different type of program would have the same sort of large scale marketing and sales impact for H&M. For example, the garment collection voucher program, which offers a discount for customers turning in clothing, encourages new purchases while still fitting into H&M’s green agenda.

The issue lies within H&M’s business model itself: you can’t produce massive amounts of fast fashion and grow the amount of stores you have, while attempting to reduce your environmental footprint.

While H&M is a front-runner in the space, it still has a long way to go towards meeting the image it is trying to create. Efforts such as a contest it held last year to encourage innovative ideas for garment recycling and increasing sustainably sourced materials across its clothing lines are only the tip of the ice burg. However, they are nowhere close to combating the unsafe conditions H&M puts workers in around the world. Incremental change is good, however for a company as large as H&M it is not enough. During Fashion Revolution Week, we must continue to put pressure on brands such as H&M to help turn their words into actions and behaviours.

Fashion Revolution Week 2016 will take place from April 18th to 24th. The campaign started in 2014 as a one-day event that resulted from the demand for a more ethical fashion industry on the anniversary of the Rana Plaza factor collapse in Bangladesh. Now it has expanded into a week-long series of events across 84 countries.

Consumers will demand transparency and raise awareness of exploitation in the fashion industry by posting on social media using the hashtag #WhoMadeMyClothes. Companies will be invited to share the faces and stories of the farmers, makers and producers involved in their supply chain through the hashtag #IMadeYourClothes.

Other features of the campaign, include:

A Transparency Index assessing 40 of the top selling global and national brands in the United Kingdom

Daily themes such as: “Let’s be Transparent: Looking at how brands are performing with supply chain transparency” and “How To Be a Fashion Revolutionary”

While, “Who Made My Clothes?” may seem like a straightforward question, Orsola de Castro, Co-Founder of Fashion Revolution reported that “The Behind the Barcode Fashion Report published last year found that 48% of brands hadn’t traced the factories where their garments were made, 75% didn’t know where their fabrics came from and 91% didn’t know where the raw materials came from.” Fashion Revolution Week 2016 aims to “directly challenge every stakeholder in the fashion supply chain – retailers, brands, factories and private label manufacturers, to start to tackle exploitation in the industry by demonstrating transparency”.

Jewellery is an accessory that can transform a boring outfit in to a stylish look and a casual outfit in to a formal look. Costume jewellery is a wonderful choice because of its affordability and availability in a versatile styles.

The most important rule to protect your costume jewellery is to avoid contact with water, moisturizer, hairspray, perfume, makeup or any other harsh chemicals. Jewellery should be always be the last on & first off. Our skin can also transfer moisture, oil or acid on to the jewellery, so it’s always a good habit to wipe jewellery with a dry and soft cloth after every use. Time to time you’ll also need to do a more thorough cleaning of your jewellery pieces.

How to take care of your Wood and Bone Jewellery

Wood jewellery can be damaged with exposure to water, moisture, or dust. You can use a non-abrasive microfiber cloth like the Blitz Wood Polishing Cloth to wipe down the surface of your wood jewellery. This cloth treated with carnauba and beeswax made for delicate surfaces such as musical instruments and is safe for use on wood jewellery. Bone jewellery should be cleaned with a soft dry cloth.

How to take care of your Glass Jewellery

Glass beads become dull over time particularly when worn against the skin or left open. The most cleaning common solution is to use a household glass cleaner with a soft absorbent cloth. You can also use rubbing alcohol or mild liquid dishwashing solution. After cleaning, make sure that all the beads and underlying thread are completely dry before you store your jewellery.

How to take care of your Leather Jewellery

Leather jewellery can be treated with shoe polish, cream or wax to condition the leather and reduce chances of it becoming stiff. Be sure to cover any decorative beads or stones before you start cleaning.

How to take care of your Plastic Jewellery

Plastic jewellery should be cleaned with water, a mild soap solution, soft cloths or sponges. Avoid using harsh cleaners that can damage the surface of plastic jewellery.

How to take care of your Paper Jewellery

Paper jewellery is 100% handmade using sophisticated craftsmanship by artisans. These jewellery pieces are typically eco-friendly. There is no protective coating found on such pieces to prevent water and tear protection so such jewellery must be cared for appropriately. Dry dust can be wiped off with a soft cotton cloth.

Don’t coat your Jewellery

Avoid coating jewellery in any kind of protectant or finish as it can end up damaging the original finish. Some cheaper quality jewellery can turn your skin green; this is a chemical reaction due to a combination of the metal and the acids in your skin. Some people use clear nail polish on the back of such Jewellery to prevent this. However, to avoid this, the best option is to buy fewer but good quality metal jewellery pieces.

Whatever method you choose to use for your jewellery cleaning, first try it in a small area to make sure it is suitable for your jewellery piece.

Always Bag it up

To prevent your jewellery from tangling and getting tarnished or damaged from the elements, store in boxes, wrap in anti-tarnish paper and keep in soft jewellery pouches or use Ziplock bags to reduce exposure to air, that causes oxidation.

And finally, consider buying ethically-made costume jewellery

There are a growing number of ethical fashion designers who are creating jewellery in an ethical manner and/or using eco-friendly and recycled materials. Though these pieces are not as low cost as what is found in fast fashion retailers, if you care for your pieces in the appropriate way, your ethically-made jewellery will last you for years to come.

Jewellery is an accessory that can transform a boring outfit in to a stylish look and a casual outfit in to a formal look. Costume jewellery is a wonderful choice because of its affordability and availability in a versatile styles.

The most important rule to protect your costume jewellery is to avoid contact with water, moisturizer, hairspray, perfume, makeup or any other harsh chemicals. Jewellery should be always be the last on & first off. Our skin can also transfer moisture, oil or acid on to the jewellery, so it’s always a good habit to wipe jewellery with a dry and soft cloth after every use. Time to time you’ll also need to do a more thorough cleaning of your jewellery pieces.

Even with regular care, metal jewellery can tarnish due to the oxidation or due to the exposure to moisture and oils from your skin. You can buff off minor tarnish to bring back the shine but buffing heavy tarnish may actually damage the plating on your piece. It is important to use the right techniques and cleaning solutions. There are several homemade and environmentally-friendly techniques available to clean various type of jewellery. Here are some of our favorites:

How to clean Brass Jewellery

To clean brass jewellery, dip a soft cloth into a little lemon juice and rub onto the piece in a gentle circular motion. The acidic solution will remove dirt and tarnish, and add some shine to your brass jewellery pieces. Be sure to remove the lemon juice with a damp cloth since allowing the juice to sit on brass too long can actually damage it. Then dry with a soft cloth!

How to clean Copper Jewellery

Lemon juice is a great solution to clean copper jewellery. Take enough lemon juice to cover the surface of your piece and mix with a tablespoon of salt. Soak the piece for 30 to 60 seconds, depending on the amount of tarnish on the piece. The solution will remove dirt and tarnish, and your copper jewellery will look shiny again. Make sure to remove all the acidic lemon juice from the jewellery to protect it from damaging, by rinsing and dry with a soft cloth.

How to clean Silver Jewellery

The purity of the metal, determines how quickly it will tarnish, which is why .925 sterling silver jewellery needs some extra care. Polishing your silver works well when there is minor tarnish or to clean oxidized silver. Always use a microfiber, lint-free flannel, or other soft nonabrasive cloth to polish your pieces as silver can scratch easily. When polishing, use long back-and-forth motions that mirror the grain of the silver. Avoid rubbing in circles, as this will magnify any tiny scratches. Also, change to a different section of your cloth frequently to avoid placing tarnish back on the silver.

For heavier tarnish, try warm water and a mild, ammonia- and phosphate-free dishwashing soap. If that doesn’t do it, make a paste of baking soda and water and use a clean soft cloth to apply a pea-sized amount to the silver and polish, then wash under running warm water, and dry with a clean cloth. For even more intense cleaning, try using baking soda, salt, aluminum foil, and boiling water. Line a roasting pan with aluminum foil, dull side facing down and place the silver pieces on it. Pour boiling water over the pieces until they are fully covered and then add 2 tbsp. each of baking soda and salt and stir the solution to allow the baking soda to dissolve completely. The chemical reaction of this combination will transfer the tarnish to the foil, and in 5 to 10 minutes the tarnish should disappear.

Interestingly, the best way to prevent tarnish on silver jewellery is to wear your jewellery often. The oils in your skin will actually help “clean” the silver and keep it looking shiny!

Don’t coat your Jewellery

Avoid coating jewellery in any kind of protectant or finish as it can end up damaging the original finish. Some cheaper quality jewellery can turn your skin green; this is a chemical reaction due to a combination of the metal and the acids in your skin. Some people use clear nail polish on the back of such Jewellery to prevent this. However, to avoid this, the best option is to buy fewer but good quality metal jewellery pieces.

Whatever method you choose to use for your jewellery cleaning, first try it in a small area to make sure it is suitable for your jewellery piece.

Always Bag it up

To prevent your jewellery from tangling and getting tarnished or damaged from the elements, store in boxes, wrap in anti-tarnish paper and keep in soft jewellery pouches or use Ziplock bags to reduce exposure to air, that causes oxidation.

And finally, consider buying ethically-made costume jewellery

There are a growing number of ethical fashion designers who are creating jewellery in an ethical manner and/or using eco-friendly and recycled materials. Though these pieces are not as low cost as what is found in fast fashion retailers, if you care for your pieces in the appropriate way, your ethically-made jewellery will last you for years to come.

“It’s not uncommon for fashion shoppers to be labelled as lazy and judgemental, particularly when it comes to ethical fashion choices. A study recently published in the Journal of Consumer Psychology gained much media attention with headlines that lashed many shoppers’ attitudes as ‘ugly’ and ‘wilfully ignorant’, and exclaimed how most shoppers consider ethical shoppers to be ‘boring and unfashionable’.

While this all makes for good headlines, these stories tend to reinforce the divide between ‘ethical’ and ‘non-ethical’ consumers. This separation of consumers is not constructive, nor does it accurately reflect the complexity of the ethical fashion landscape. Today consumers are asked to make fashion decisions about issues of labour, sustainable materials, frequency of fashion seasons and clothing recyclability, among others. Under these circumstances, the definition of what makes an ‘ethical’ consumer becomes blurred and casting judgement on the ‘ordinary’ shopping public appears misplaced.

What did the research actually say? How can we move past the sensational headlines towards encouraging ethical fashion choices?

The study, led by Ohio State University consumer psychologist Daniel Zane, builds on earlier research that found shoppers prefer to be wilfully ignorant about purchases—people will use information about labour practices or environmental impact if it is provided, but if not they won’t actively seek out this information before making a purchase.

The new research found that wilfully ignorant consumers also negatively judge those who do seek out ethical products, describing them as ‘boring’, ‘odd’ and ‘unfashionable’.

The behaviour is attributed to social comparison theory, which explains that the consumer is acting in self-defence so as not to view themselves as inferior to ethical consumers. It’s not that they don’t care about ethical issues, but when they are reminded that they have not acted in accordance with these values while others have, they feel bad about themselves and lash out at those who made them feel that way.

Given that the average reader spends less than 15 seconds reading an online article (and that’s if they even bother to read it before sharing it online), the above mentioned headlines could be doing more harm than good. Readers may interpret these headlines as additional negative representations of their unethical consumer behaviour, leading to more of the ‘lashing out’ documented in the study. Furthermore, the headlines perpetuate the outdated assumption that ethical or sustainable fashion is unattractive or boring.

There is still much to be understood about ethical consumption, particularly in relation to fashion. It’s fairly well documented that guilt- and fear-based messages aren’t effective in getting people to change their behaviour. And despite what the new research suggests in regard to consumers’ desire for ethical information, it’s also the case that extra information does not always lead to action.

What needs to be better understood are the other factors that impact purchase decisions, including availability, price, identity, time, lifestyle and brand loyalty. When considering fashion in particular, a number of specific considerations come into play.

Guilt does not sell fashion—desire does. Education and awareness of fashion’s ethical issues need to be paired with an acknowledgement that clothing purchases are connected to pleasure and individual self-expression. This approach is likely to be more successful than messages based on guilt or denigration.

In addition, cost remains a primary concern for fashion purchases. Though the higher cost of many ethical fashion brands may be justified—because they are paying a living wage to garment workers or sourcing sustainable materials—consumers may not immediately understand the price premium, particularly as clothing prices have plummeted with the rise of fast fashion brands in Australia.

Fashion is also a social activity—purchases are made with an awareness of ‘fitting in’ by wearing attire appropriate for the situation and to coincide with one’s social group. By enhancing the distinction between ‘ethical’ and ‘non-ethical’, consumers not only have to consider their own personal image but also how these distinctions align with their social group.

Importantly, consumers aren’t shopping in a vacuum. They can only buy what is available from the fashion industry, distributed by retailers, and made affordable by appropriate trade agreements. The fashion industry is extremely complex with multiple layers of suppliers, contractors and subcontractors, and worryingly frail levels of transparency and traceability along the supply chain. To focus solely on consumers making ‘ethical’ fashion choices places an unfair level of responsibility on shoppers and detracts from understanding how the industry became so unethical in the first place.

The good news is continuous growth in the sustainable fashion market, which helps to overcome the stigma that ethically sourced clothes are ugly or too expensive. The many small start-up labels are increasingly being joined by larger fashion houses and department stores, which also help consumers overcome issues of availability of ethical fashion. Though the stereotypes exist, a fashion revolution is already underway.”

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The Bay & Harbour Blog

Bay & Harbour is the brainchild of a Toronto-based mother/daughter team with an eye for trend-setting, unique and high-quality fashion & lifestyle products.

The pair is inspired by different cultures, handicraft techniques, discrete designs, and fashion trends from their travels around the world. Bay & Harbour as their outlet to share that love of design with others.

The Bay & Harbour collections feature a variety of accessories & lifestyle products for both men & women.

The co-founders are passionate about fashion with a cause. Many of the Bay & Harbour collections also include pieces that are sustainable and / or ethically made.