I just put some cheap wooden blades on mine. They were thinner than stock so I made two aluminum spacer/washers on my lathe. They work fine. Even without a lathe it would be pretty easy to fabricate little washers out of aluminum or plastic. You could stack them if you had to.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try to get some better blades than the abs ones.
Today, I've been experimenting a bit with the throttle and pitch curves.
I have tried the throttle settings I use on my CopterX 450, but it's too agressive for the X3. I reverted to the factory settings for the throttle. This is what gives best results.
For the pitch I found there was way too much negative at 0 throttle (normal hover mode, not idle up), so I've modified a bit this and adjusted by a few % the rest of the curve. I think the heli is more pleasant to fly now.
Too bad, the weather here makes it impossible to fly outside these days

Thanks for the tip. I'll try to get some better blades than the abs ones.
Today, I've been experimenting a bit with the throttle and pitch curves.
I have tried the throttle settings I use on my CopterX 450, but it's too agressive for the X3. I reverted to the factory settings for the throttle. This is what gives best results.
For the pitch I found there was way too much negative at 0 throttle (normal hover mode, not idle up), so I've modified a bit this and adjusted by a few % the rest of the curve. I think the heli is more pleasant to fly now.
Too bad, the weather here makes it impossible to fly outside these days

After playing around with pitch and throttle curves as well as CaptJac's modified curves I also decided that at this stage of my learning curve stock is best for both, although I did change D/R and EXP values as well as gyro and agility settings on the RX.

After playing around with pitch and throttle curves as well as CaptJac's modified curves I also decided that at this stage of my learning curve stock is best for both, although I did change D/R and EXP values as well as gyro and agility settings on the RX.

What did you adjust the normal mode pitch curve %'s to?

Pitch curve: 48 - 52 - 55 - 60 - 65
I don't recommend this as being better, but that works fine for me
That's my 3rd cp heli after a CopterX 450 and a Walkera 120D05. She flies as well as the 450, and is more stable. The Walkera was a kind of disappointment. Someday it would fly great, but the next time it would not even hover properly. Finally all the servos burnt one day when I plugged the battery. It stayed on a shelf for months. I finally decided to order new servos...
The X3 is a better value for money imho.

Did you increase or decrease the amount of expo? I thought some more would be good, especially to soften a bit the reactions when flying indoor in a limited space. Walls are coming too fast sometimes

Pitch curve: 48 - 52 - 55 - 60 - 65
I don't recommend this as being better, but that works fine for me
That's my 3rd cp heli after a CopterX 450 and a Walkera 120D05. She flies as well as the 450, and is more stable. The Walkera was a kind of disappointment. Someday it would fly great, but the next time it would not even hover properly. Finally all the servos burnt one day when I plugged the battery. It stayed on a shelf for months. I finally decided to order new servos...
The X3 is a better value for money imho.

Did you increase or decrease the amount of expo? I thought some more would be good, especially to soften a bit the reactions when flying indoor in a limited space. Walls are coming too fast sometimes

I increased the expo from the factory setting of -10 to +35 and lowered the D/R from the factory setting of 35 to 30.

I'm a Noob at 6 ch and from everything I've read (unless I've got it backwards) my settings should make it less sensitive close to center stick rather than much more sensitive, which it is. I like it to respond with minimal stick movement so that I'm not chasing it and playing catch-up.

Well i put in some hitec 65mg servos for the cyclic and noticed they were turning opposite way to skyartec ones so reversed all the channels except for the rudder which had original servo.i set up swash so it looked level and checked servo movements all appeared to be moving correctly.
when i tried to take off it just flipped backwards and to the right.i noticed the swag arms bearings had collapsed and the screws bent- i dont know if these were already damaged from from a previous crash.
when i move the heli in my hand im not sure the gyro is leveling quite as it should.
Would there be some kind of programming issue like its speciffically set for skyartec servo and would need changing for the hitecs?
could it be my leaving rudder original ?and reversing rest of channels causes some conflict in software?
Iam thinking of going back to original servos does anyone know where to get gear sets instead of full servo?
Iam new to these so i know im making errors dont know anyone to teach me so im learning the hard way! These forums are a great help though thanks

Images

Well i put in some hitec 65mg servos for the cyclic and noticed they were turning opposite way to skyartec ones so reversed all the channels except for the rudder which had original servo.i set up swash so it looked level and checked servo movements all appeared to be moving correctly.
when i tried to take off it just flipped backwards and to the right.i noticed the swag arms bearings had collapsed and the screws bent- i dont know if these were already damaged from from a previous crash.
when i move the heli in my hand im not sure the gyro is leveling quite as it should.
Would there be some kind of programming issue like its speciffically set for skyartec servo and would need changing for the hitecs?
could it be my leaving rudder original ?and reversing rest of channels causes some conflict in software?Iam thinking of going back to original servos does anyone know where to get gear sets instead of full servo?
Iam new to these so i know im making errors dont know anyone to teach me so im learning the hard way! These forums are a great help though thanks

Hi from a new member in snowy Finland,
The rod in my brand new X3V broke before first liftoff due to a misaligned thread. Have a look at the attachment.

Cheers
Peter

Those connectors for blade pitch are actually beefier than the ones from the servos to the swashplate. I have had brand new ones split when trying to thread them on. I put shrink tubing over them to strengthen them now.

Another weak point that you'll find is the tiny screws for the swag arms. They will bend from the slightest crash. However, if they're bent slightly and the swag arm isn't binding it doesn't seem to affect the flight.

That being said, I'm very happy with the Wasp X3V fbl and think that it's hard to beat for the price.

.......Thanks for the tip. I'll try to get some better blades than the abs ones.............

Many of the recent posters might have overlooked the review that was the first post of this chain of posts and responses.
At the end of the review we have a video of the X3V FBL in 3D flight using the stock ABS blades, stock servos, stock hardware and battery.
Thought some of you might like to see it, if you hadn't seen it :

Well I'm not happy ended up having to buy a new X303V Rx myself as I gave up waiting on Skyartec's Australian dealer to respond to James request for them to send me a new replacement one which I had to buy from them, so I put it in and then I finally got to try the X3 V tonight after finally finishing everything to do with holidays etc.

Started it up everything worked fine till I moved the throttle and the servos went nuts and jammed up and I shut it down.

Checked everything and all is fine with the wiring and with the Tx also tried the Cessna's Tx loaded up the I:6 model and the saved settings for it as well and the same thing as you throttle up the servos tilt the swash either backwards or forwards to the right and then go ballistic and jam up but without throttle all servos work fine.

Those connectors for blade pitch are actually beefier than the ones from the servos to the swashplate. I have had brand new ones split when trying to thread them on. I put shrink tubing over them to strengthen them now.

Another weak point that you'll find is the tiny screws for the swag arms. They will bend from the slightest crash. However, if they're bent slightly and the swag arm isn't binding it doesn't seem to affect the flight.

That being said, I'm very happy with the Wasp X3V fbl and think that it's hard to beat for the price.

Thanks for the hints Pa flyer. Yes, the screws for the swag arms were bent as well (see attachment).
The local distributor kindly gave me a brand new replacement X3V so everything is ok now.
You are right, after some minor crashes with the replacement unit, one of the screws is bent.

Images

Well I'm not happy ended up having to buy a new X303V Rx myself as I gave up waiting on Skyartec's Australian dealer to respond to James request for them to send me a new replacement one which I had to buy from them, so I put it in and then I finally got to try the X3 V tonight after finally finishing everything to do with holidays etc.

Started it up everything worked fine till I moved the throttle and the servos went nuts and jammed up and I shut it down.

Checked everything and all is fine with the wiring and with the Tx also tried the Cessna's Tx loaded up the I:6 model and the saved settings for it as well and the same thing as you throttle up the servos tilt the swash either backwards or forwards to the right and then go ballistic and jam up but without throttle all servos work fine.

any thoughts or is my heli just doomed.

1.X303V is programable and upgraded gyro board,so you need to program x303v for x3v. (I am not sure if it is x3s or x3v)