Sleeper vegetable rutabagas wakes up taste buds

Rutabagas in San Francisco, Calif., on December 3, 2009. For The Seasonal Cook column.

Rutabagas in San Francisco, Calif., on December 3, 2009. For The Seasonal Cook column.

Photo: Craig Lee, Special To The Chronicle

Photo: Craig Lee, Special To The Chronicle

Image
1of/1

Caption

Close

Image 1 of 1

Rutabagas in San Francisco, Calif., on December 3, 2009. For The Seasonal Cook column.

Rutabagas in San Francisco, Calif., on December 3, 2009. For The Seasonal Cook column.

Photo: Craig Lee, Special To The Chronicle

Sleeper vegetable rutabagas wakes up taste buds

1 / 1

Back to Gallery

In the hierarchy of root vegetables, rutabagas are essentially bottom-feeders. They're either confused with turnips, or ignored altogether.

But it doesn't have to be that way. With winter here, consider throwing in some rutabagas next time you make a hearty stew or roasting a big batch of vegetables.

Rutabagas, thought to be a cross between turnips and cabbages, look like elderly turnips. While both have purple tops, most rutabagas have yellow skin/flesh and more wrinkly necks. And beneath that rough appearance is a vegetable that is sweeter, denser and perhaps even more versatile than the turnip.

Use rutabagas as you would potatoes - boil, roast, mash or puree. Phil Foster has grown rutabagas on his ranch just east of Hollister for more than a decade and prefers them mashed, preferably with a ricer, and suggests mixing in equal parts mashed potatoes if you're seeking a creamier texture.

"It's nice to see rutabagas get some mention," Foster adds. "They're kind of a sleeper vegetable."

How to select: Pick rutabagas that are firm and feel heavy for its size. Medium ones are best, as larger rutabagas can be tough. Avoid limp and spotted vegetables.

How to use: Give rutabagas a good scrub, and peel and dice them before boiling or roasting. Once cooked, you can mash or puree them with your favorite spices. Or try roasting with olive oil, Italian herbs, salt and pepper and lemon juice.

How to store: Rutabagas are "pretty bulletproof," Foster says, as long as they don't get dehydrated. Wrapped in plastic, they should keep in the refrigerator crisper for up to a month.

When in season: Peak time for rutabagas is between late October and late January, but because rutabagas store so well, they're often available year 'round.