If you're like me, you've stood over a pan, flipped a fish fillet optimistically, then watched the skin detach in a sad crumple. Where are we going wrong?

Donovan Cooke of Melbourne's Ryne has been cooking fish for 32 years, since he was an 18-year-old in his first job at London's Savoy Hotel. He steers us in the right direction with his step-by-step guide in the gallery above.

Note: If your fish is thick, score the skin in the centre of the fillet prior to cooking, cutting half a centimetre into the flesh.