? 7mm, 7mm ultra or 300wm or 300rum for LR hunting

Ok guys I need some of your expertise advise!
I am looking at buying a new gun, I just cant get my 300wby to shoot consistant (after 9 weekends of working out loads and shooting out to 650 yrds and 400$ later) I want 1" groups and less at 100 Yrds! I want the gun for elk and coyote hunting out to 1000 yrds. I have 8.5 x 25 luppy on my wby and will take that off for the new gun.
My 300 wby has thin barrel glassed action and floated barrel I have shot many less than 1" groups at a 100yrds
but have shot a lot more bigger than 1"
It drives me crazy that 1 day I hit my 500yrd 14x18" plate
2 strait pretty close to center then the next shot miss the plate completly with a cool barrel and on the bench with sand bags and one for my shoulder so there is no flinchin if that is what your thinkin. I will stop my ramblin! I'm thinkin of the 300wm or 300rum or 7mm mag or the 7mmrum
I want one that is accurate ( I dont think a 5-6" group at 500yrds is asking too much for a factory rifle is it?) the new 06 remington model 700 sendero SFII has HS stock aluminum bedding block and .82 dia barrel HELP HELP
I have targets set up right out my back door and trust me
I am tired of working with the freebore and thin barrel(.55) on the wby Thanks for help

__________________
The best things in life cannot be seen or touched!
They must be felt with the heart.

My bet is it is not the caliber but something in the barrel or bedding, so "switching calibers" is not a sure thing.

When you say you spent $400, my question is on what?

Depending on the action, you might be better off just rebarrelling to a no free bore 300 wthby (already have the dies and brass). There is absolutely nothing wrong with the 300 wtby IF it is set up right.

Nothing wrong with the freebore or the caliber. If after checking the bedding , action torque, scope mounting and a handful of other things and it still wonít shoot, why not just spin a heavier barrel on your Mark 5. I have 3 Accumarks of my own and work with several others and they all shoot sub moa pretty easy. We regularly practice out to 500 yards on targets that are 3" wide to milk jug size. The wind is out worst problem especially on the narrow targets. A 500yrd 14x18" plate is crazy huge and wind or not you should be on it every time. What load did you settle on? My 300ís shoot great with IMR-7828 and 180 grain Partitions or TSX's clocking 3300 fps. Extreme spread for 10 shots is only 13 fps. When I get my new scope we will stretch all this practice out to 700 yards.

What rings and bases are you using. If you are using windage adjustable ones you need to be sure to use a torque wrench on the windage screws (I use 50" pounds) or your groups will do all sorts of weird things. Next scope will be in double dovetails or Tallyís

A 300 Wby in a light gun is distracting to say the least. My last 300 weighed 7 Ĺ pounds dressed. I finally got over my own issues by going away from all recoil isolation techniques. I shoot heavy kickers best on bare skin with a light t-shirt being best practical. The wussy pads were letting it get a run at me, where when Iím getting, "intimate" with it, we move as one. I started opening my jacket and putting the stock inside with me on the big ones. My current 300 now has a nice decelerator pad on it and an Accubrake. Now I use varmint rifle holds on it but still nothing more than a t-shirt. Even on the 338-378Wby with 115 grains of powder behind a 225 grain bullet, shooting it tight on my skin is the way to go. Doing the same thing, my 14 year old boy shoots sub moa with it.

__________________Build a man a fire and you heat him for a day.Set him on fire and you heat him for life.

Thanks for replies, spent 400+ on bullets,powder,brass,
ended up with 83.2 gr of 7828 with 180 gr hornady sp (3070)
with a ocl of 3.72, have the redfield base and leupold rings The barrel was glassed all the way I floated it to the action you can run a doller bill under it freely,this helped it the most,sorry I had to go to the wussy pad as i was shooting aprox. 70-90 shots each saturday starting early
(cold out) and going late cold then too.
I have not did the torqe thing on the windage turrent! even if the knob is loose dosnt the shaft (that the knob tightends down to) stay at the same place? help me on that one, Let me say this I know this is embarresing but many years ago after hunting I put the thing in the case and left it there for a couple of years [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] (got into muzzeloading)
well you guessed it when i pulled it out of case HELLO RUST [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]
and I can see some little pits in between the rifling at the end of the barrel who knows what that is doing to it!
tried sierra,barnes,nosler partitions,noslerBT,berger,
4831, 4350, retumbo,RL-22 the gun hates boat tails,
will that mark V action be worthy of a different barrel?
I would really like to hunt with this puppy if I had the confidance that it would stay on. sorry I got a PH call and i got to go, WHAT to DO???

__________________
The best things in life cannot be seen or touched!
They must be felt with the heart.

Since I have been trying to do this longrange game I have had several buddies ask me how to extend their hunting range. I have told all of them the same thing and for some reason it is IMPOSSIBLE to get across.

If you really want dependable game killing accuracy out to ranges of 500-800 yds go with a custom gun. It doesnt have to be a wildcat caliber, go with a 300RUM or a 7mmRUM or anything that has the power. But if you get it in a custom gun with a trued up action from a reputable smith you will have the accuracy you want.

In the 3 custom guns I have shot I have been amazed at the difference in accuracy. Not at 100yds but at 400-600-800-1000yds. I have great trust in my smith and I know whatever he builds for me will shoot lights out, or he wont let it out of his shop.

Find a good smith, there are several on this board, and have them build you a gun. It will be fairly expensive but if you take in the cost of a new Sendero, and good Leup scope or better, and anything else you wanna do to it you will damn near at the same cost of what you would have put into the custom rig to begin with.

This is only my opinion but when you deal with a good smith it is his rifle, not a factories. He is responsible for what it can do so he will put in the effort. It is a comfortable feeling to have. Check out Kirby Allen or Shawn Carlock, among others I am sure. Kirby has done all of my custom work and will continue to do so.

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I can see some little pits in between the rifling at the end of the barrel who knows what that is doing to it!

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This is your basic galvanic corrosion.

This happens when an electrolyte is present such as moisture, or any fluid like substance that can create a path of ion transmission.

Your pitting youre seeing is actually metal removed due to anode and cathode tramission of ions resulting in what you see as rust.

No cure for your pitting it will always be their unless you mechanically or chemically remove it. Once it starts it is more prone to beign in that area since it has started its transformation back to its original composition which was iron ore.

Corrosion is bascially that, a metals desire to return to its natural state.

Many boats will place a section of magnesium on their boat if it is steel. This is called sacrafical corrosion where you introduce an anode that will corrode before the cathode. This allows the rest of the boat to become the cathode and will not corrode. The magnesium must be changed often as it will corrode at an accelerated amount.

You must always have three things for corrosion to begin; 1 anode, 2 cathode, and 3 a way for the ions to travel through some sort of medium that will conduct electricity (water, moisture).