http://oldmusclecars.com/ has everything you need in a 2 part kit. The number for the canister kit is 5574279 for $69.95. The bypass valve is part# 5573837 for $28.95 and the 2 bolts part #100111 for $2.50

You can look at these parts on their web site and see the pictures of what you need also.

Advantages of the canister filter is that they're (usually) cheaper and they hold 1 quart of oil. The disadvantage is that they're starting to get harder to find.

The advantages of the spin on is that they're (sometimes) just as cheap as the canister filter, easy to find, and if you get a Fram PH373* or equivilant, they hold approx 1.5 quarts. The disadvantages of the spin on is more junk in the landfill.

I am running a canister after my resto...seems like it takes 5 1/2 qts now to be full on the dipstick. Didn't recall that it needed that much oil back in the day. You have to be careful to get the Oring sealed properly during install and getting the old one out is sometimes a pain.

i had the cannister on my car after the restoration, but quickly went back to the spin on filter. very difficult to get that thin dental floss O ring to seal correctly. wasnt worth the effort IMHO>

You must have had some oddball O-ring; the correct one that comes with name-brand filter elements is square in cross-section, fits well in the groove, and seals well with an original canister. About 25 million engines used the canister oil filter, including '65-'67 big-blocks, with no field problems; I've been changing them since 1957, and have never had one leak.

i had the cannister on my car after the restoration, but quickly went back to the spin on filter. very difficult to get that thin dental floss O ring to seal correctly. wasnt worth the effort IMHO>

You must have had some oddball O-ring; the correct one that comes with name-brand filter elements is square in cross-section, fits well in the groove, and seals well with an original canister. About 25 million engines used the canister oil filter, including '65-'67 big-blocks, with no field problems; I've been changing them since 1957, and have never had one leak.

I had one leak in the late 70's when I was a wee child. Oil pressure dropped suddenly after an oil change. I kept up the revs to get home..just a few miles away.. which kept the pressure up- but likely accelerated the leak! I put the canister on now with car on lift so I can see what I am doing...and overcome the spring pressure to keep canister seated on the "quad-ring".

you also have to make absolutely sure that you get the old "o-ring" out and not install the new one on top of the old one. Don't laugh - I know of more than one person who has done this - and if you do, it will leak.

I've been using the Wix 51143 canister filters on my 396's and the square O-rings come out with no problems with a slight tug. I recommend to invest in a set of steel dental type of 'picks' you can buy up at any auto parts store. These come in handy when having to reach up in the cavity to hook and tug on the o-ring to free it.

I recall that was an issue if you took your car to a typical 'service station' for an oil change; the young guys doing the oil change didn't always remove the old sealing ring, and would either toss the new or or install it over the old one... and that DID cause leaks.