Sometimes you find the best food in the most unlikely places. I've had many good meals at Cav Wine Bar & Kitchen, but I wasn't expecting the refined, sophisticated cuisine crafted by John Maher, who has been at the helm since October.

The casual interior is a quirky zigzagging space where diners work their way around the bar to get to the main dining room. An artistic cork installation runs along one wall, and a graffiti-like mural along the other gives this place a cool vibe.

It should be one of the hottest tickets in town, what with the wine list crafted by owner Pamela Busch, and the food from Maher. He's worked at the French Laundry, Dry Creek Kitchen and Aqua - quite a resume for a 28-year-old.

At Cav he's creating food that's a bargain for the quality. The crispy pig trotters ($12) are proof enough. He pulls the meat from the bone, shapes it into a log and slices it to order, pan-frying it so it has that crisp, baconlike exterior. It's accompanied by a refined version of sauce gribiche and dressed frisee.

The lamb ($24) looks as if it came out of the French Laundry kitchen. Rosy medallions of saddle are served on white bean puree, with fava bean ragout for color and texture, and a restrained drizzle of rich bordelaise - a perfect blend of technique and ingredients.

Dessert can be just as dramatic. In one he places avocado ice cream ($8) in the center of a Jackson Pollock-style arrangement with rings of candied shallots, splashes of cilantro syrup, crumbles of sable made with masa and slices of lime confit. It wasn't the most satisfying, but it certainly was intriguing. A more successful choice is a creamy lime curd cake ($8) with a jalapeno ice cream, candied jalapeno and a swipe of rich dark chocolate.

In the next month or so, Maher will transition to a small-plate menu, but his intricate combinations will remain. Portions will be smaller and less expensive.

Unfortunately, the service is a step below the food. The staff is good at suggesting wines, but the flatware comes to the zinc-topped tables rolled in a napkin. Waiters wear what they want and can have too many tables to service. The style is informal, but casual doesn't mean sloppy.

The overall experience might not be in sync, but when Maher's in the kitchen, little else matters.

Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.