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I am a service plumber too and plan to install stops at all fixtures except for the ones in the same room as the manabloc that would drive me crazy to have to go down two flights of stairs just to turn the toilet or lav off.

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I have used them on repipes, and I don't think it was much faster for me. Based on the house you are describing, it sounds like a coin flip situation. You will spend a little more on pipe, but get the savings by only having a handful of fittings.

As a repair plumber, I hate them because when I go to service a toilet for instance, I have to find where they hid the Manabloc to turn the water off. Then after I fix the toilet, I go and turn the water back on. Now if there is a leak or something caught in the fill valve, or whatever, it's back through the house I go. Not a huge deal, but not as easy as just reaching under the toilet for the shut off valve.

I have also been in many homes around ten years old that had significant water damage due to the washer leaking on the hot side inlet of the Manabloc. Easy enough to fix, but the leak wouldn't have happened with the traditional method of install.

I am a service plumber too and plan to install stops at all fixtures except for the ones in the same room as the manabloc that would drive me crazy to have to go down two flights of stairs just to turn the toilet or lav off.

Last I checked IPC code required stops at all fixtures. Depending on interpretation, but here a Manabloc would not count. Not even in the room.

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How many of these leaks have you fixed JC ? Was it due to installation ,water quality ,defect , what was the incoming pressure/ temperature of the water? Do you see many leaks on these ? You heard someone else on here." owners throw some guy on these because they can not mess it up" right well I guess they may have been wrong? Nevada Plumber did not say he installed the system. I fix a lot of sloppy work and replace defective stuff like the old brass craft 1/4 turn fixture valves. Are you sure about these longer wait times that is suppose to be a benefit of the manifold parallel water distribution system?

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It's not necessarily sloppy work that causes the Manablocs to leak. The hot and cold inlets are 3/4" or 1" PEX pipe that attach to the block with a Manabloc adapter fitting. I don't have a picture of one handy, but a quick google image search will show what they look like if you have never seen one.

Anyways, you insert a washer on the adapter, and then tighten that to the Manabloc. After about ten years or so of the water heating and cooling, it loosens up the connection on the hot water side. The cold water side is usually fine. At first the leak is just a drip, and then gets worse over time. If someone notices the leak while it is small, not a big problem. If they don't, well, you get the picture.

Now keep in mind that not every Manabloc is guaranteed to leak like that. I'd say out of all the Manablocs in this town, the failure rate is around 2% that I have personally witnessed.

All that said, if you were planning on putting shut off valves under the sinks and toilets as part of the repipe, I wouldn't use a Manabloc if it was my job.

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Any body deal with Pex supply ? It looks like that is were I am going to get the manabloc and 1/2" & 3/4" alu/pex from . The guy out here in maryland does not stock it only the standard pex and larger manablocs .

Was it due to installation ,water quality ,defect , what was the incoming pressure/ temperature of the water? Once again, NONE HERE.

Do you see many leaks on these ? Third time, NONE installed here.

You heard someone else on here." owners throw some guy on these because they can not mess it up" right well I guess they may have been wrong? They may have been wrong, or maybe not.

Nevada Plumber did not say he installed the system. You're correct, he did not say he installed the system. He has stated that their is a washer involved, and he estimates he has only seen it about 2% of the time. However, who else is seeing it that he doesn't know about? I fix a lot of sloppy work and replace defective stuff like the old brass craft 1/4 turn fixture valves. Are you sure about these longer wait times that is suppose to be a benefit of the manifold parallel water distribution system?

I have read more than once about wait times to single fixtures and understand the theory behind it.

It's your job, do it as you wish. I get the impression that you are more emotionally sold on the idea than what others experience are with them. I could be wrong. You may just prefer it this way and think me traditionally running lines to be not-so-smart.

If there were pictures of your job, maybe I could get in your court. Right now, I just can't see it. This is just 3 fixtures with 5 lines. "All those tees..." What tees? Maybe 5 tees? You could make a manifold with PEX, tees, & valves that's probably more durable & cost less than a Manabloc. Then you have control of the install design also. That's IF you even need a manifold. And now I read you're running AL-PEX for this. Why? Seems simple getting complicated. I'm open to learn though.

J.C.

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The Al-pex holds its shape like soft copper no bend supports and looks better on block walls at least I would think so. No emotion here just want to put it in and see if it lives up to what viega says it will do? And all I have ever done is trunk and branch and want to see what manifold is all about and here from people that have put it in. I may be in you camp after it is all done and over with but I want to give it a chance first. Now that I am the Boss I am a little worried how big this manabloc will grow after I start to tie in the lines.

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clipper what stops fit 3/8 pex? that would add two rings per line.i only installed two blocks since 98 and was only because customer had to have it even after i tried to install fully loaded system with recirc and swl for same price.if its a bath only repipe building your own block with b/v would be cheaper.

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well looks like I may loose this one guys I priced this out at $3900 with the listed work : Replace 3/4" main from service entrance to water heater and manabloc , new line from heater to manabloc , 5 new 1/2" lines to up stairs bath, new moen positemp , new shower riser with batten and drop ear, new lines to kitchen and new single handle kitchen faucet , new lines to block mount L.T. faucet and new L.T. faucet , two new legend 12" 1/4 turn frost proof silcocks , new wilikins 3/4" 700 prv and new 3/4" dual check 3 new 3/4" f.i.p. ball & waste valves , 4 new 1/2" pex press ball valves , 4 new 1/2" pex press fixture valves , 2 of those important 3/4" brass unions ! 24hrs @ 80 bucks an hour were did I go wrong !!!! another company came in and gave a quote of $2,280.00 to repipe water and drain and waste lines said he would bring in a couple of people. No faucets included and piping will be all C.P.V.C. customer is new to me and wanted to know the reason for price difference all I could think of was maybe he is cheaper due to the fact he will have three people working at the same time? C.P.V.C. is cheaper? I told her I would re-estimate with C.P.V.C. if she wanted but I am trying to get away from the junk. Well guys what do you think and how would you take this I have never been in a bidding situation like this before and thought I would be cheaper than most at $80 per hour?

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Your time sounds a little high to me, but I don't know what is involved with replacing the main from the meter to the house. Out here that means digging a trench. Also the bid is not exactly apples to apples when you are figuring replacing faucets and the other guy is not. Homeowners have a hard time understanding stuff like that at times.

Finally, CPVC piping is cheaper then PEX, especially when you figure that you will be using a several hundred dollar Manabloc on top of the other costs. All that makes up for the difference in the price. You need to sell yourself as to why you are better then the other guy, and why your finished product will be better for the homeowner.

I'm not trying to be rude, but is $80 an hour cheap for your area? I've been to Baltimore a few times on vacation, and I can't picture working in the city for that little. I charge more then that where I live, and I don't have any of the big city headaches you have there. Again, not trying to be rude, just wondering how things work in other areas.

Edit : I reread your post and noticed you said the other guy would also replace the sewer lines. You have to remember that the other guy may not know how to price his work out correctly. He could be taking a huge bath on the job, but needs a couple thousand quick to get him by for one more week. Just know your costs, and never forget them. There is no point in working for free.

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well the deal is done lost job he cut his price again down to 2080.00 with a coupon what a gimmick . But for now I guess I can forget about manablocs and just figure on trunk and branch. My guy at the supply house tells me my area has a lot of low ballers yea just found that out. Also have a guy out here charging 80 for any drain opened don't know how that works? as I charge 170 1st hour and 80 is my rate. All these low guys this is starting to drive me crazy