Pai: Thailand’s Mountain Backpacker Paradise (or Hell?)

I didn’t like Pai. Wait. Check that — I liked Pai, I just didn’t love Pai. For years, travelers have told me how much they loved Pai. “It’s aaaaa-mazing! It’s so much fun. There’s healthy food, incredible drinks, and beautiful mountains. You’ll never want to leave,” they would explain, as if talking about the Garden of Eden.

When I started traveling this region in 2006, I rarely heard the name Pai mentioned. It was far off the beaten path, and back then I was all about staying on the beaten path. Over the years, Pai grew in fame as a destination where people smoked weed, drank, hiked, and did yoga. Having never been to Pai, I decided on this trip that it was time to finally check out what all the fuss was about.

Driving through northern Thailand into the mountains, my bus twisted and turned. The road to Pai has over 700 turns, but I barely noticed them as I stared out the window at the densely covered hills rolling like waves into the horizon. It was green as far as I could see, and I was again struck by the beauty of the Thai countryside. We drove on for hours as our bus driver auditioned for an unseen F1 judge. But the heart-stopping speed was worth it to once again see such beautiful tropical forests.

As I explored town later that day, I understood why backpackers love Pai, why they write so effusively about it and accentuate the world love when they mention it. Nestled in the mountains and surrounded by waterfalls and wondrous hiking trails, Pai is a tiny town where life moves at a pace that would frustrate even the most laid-back Spaniard. It’s also a Western paradise: there’s organic food, wheatgrass shots, specialty teas, and Western food in shops lining the streets of the town. Additionally, drinks and accommodations are cheap, and the party goes late.

It is a backpacker’s mountain paradise.

But it was often just those things that turned me off to Pai. The town is simply too touristy and culturally washed over for me. I’m not one to hate the tourist trail — I’m writing this in a Western café in Luang Prabang, Laos while having a lemonade. But when people seek out imported food, drink beers from Belgium, and when the street food consists of burgers, bruschetta, and lasagna, I think things have gone too far.

Thailand itself seems to have gotten lost in Pai as waves upon waves of Westerners and Chinese tourists reshape most of town. One had to wander to find Thai restaurants that catered to the local population. (They were delicious and cheaper than the food found at the “market” on Walking Street.)

Of course, Pai is not all bad — there’s plenty to see and do. From town, you can hike to waterfalls, wander through farms and rice terraces where the only sounds are the birds and farm animals, and bike to caves and more waterfalls.

I especially loved the day trip to the Tham Lod caves. In mid-afternoon, you’re driven by one of the many tour operators (don’t worry which, they all go the same way) to Mo Paeng waterfall, where you can go for a swim, and then to Sai Ngam (secret) hot springs, a viewpoint, and finally the caves, where you arrive right before sunset. After a hike along a short path, a Thai guide leads you through three large chambers before you board a raft to float down the river that splices this cave in half. There the cavern opens up as you witness thousands of birds flocking around the entrance. It was mystifying, breathtaking, and the highlight of my time in Pai.

What I loved about Pai was the setting, not the vibe. In a town that charges you to plug your computer in, I found watching bare-chested backpackers get drunk obnoxious. As to fully showcase what Pai had become, my trip was bookended by overhearing two girls discussing whether they are “damp” or not according to Chinese medicine and two older guys discussing how Monsanto and governments are conspiring to depopulate the world.

I can see why so many travelers come here and love it: cheap accommodation, excess partying, the beautiful setting, the good Western food. If I were a first-time traveler and much younger, this travel atmosphere would be great. You get to interact with a lot of other travelers, maybe meet a few locals, and have a wild time.

But it’s not for me anymore.

The Pai of the backpacker is not the Pai that interests me. I love what made Pai famous in the first place: the mountains and the long forest paths to secluded waterfalls, caves, stunning vistas, and a quiet place to read a good book.

This is where Pai shines. This is what makes Pai the place to be. And why you should go to Pai, stay on the outskirts town in a lovely little bungalow, rent a bike, traverse the hills, bathe in cool waterfalls, or explore some caves.

Pais is much more than a haven for Westerner hippies, backpackers, and yoga teachers.

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I am so glad I have been there in 2004. It sounds like a lot has changed. Shame I did not know about this cave trip. It does make me wonder if I should put in on my list of things to do or should I keep the memorie of the old Pai alive?
Is there such a thing as accommodation away from the partyscene?

I agree that Pai has lost it’s authentic Thai-ness. You travel hours in those horrible vans with expectations of a nice Thai village but are met with an overly Western town. Even some of the local Thai business owners have become greedy and grumpy from all the Western demands and drunk tourists. I won’t return as it continues to decline. Instead, I opted for a trip to Loei and Chiang Khan in October. A much more authentic Thai experience. Easy on the budget and easily accessible.

An interesting take on Pai. I loved my time recently spent there. I don’t go to bars to drink and had friends with motorbikes so we were able to explore the countryside. I noticed less the things you disliked because of it. For Thai food I ate at Na’s. I like Thai but also loved the cute creative cafes with other options. I also thought the bars were very chill with sweet acoustic artists. I understand your point, that things are being lost, but in a way some things are gained. Still a great post.

We felt the same way too! We really enjoyed our time there but didn’t feel like we could rave about it the way other tourists were. It’s downtown area is so overcrowded with tourists. The caves, waterfalls, and landscape are incredible! Those of us not interested in the immature party scene should unite! Enjoy the culture and eat some real Thai food!

I totally agree with being disenchanted with Pai. When I was in Chiang Mai, my guesthouse had a small ad for a van that drives up to Pai for something like 400 baht- so I figured, why not?!

I was there in mid February- mistakenly during Chinese new year. It was abhorrently crowded and it was hard to find any authenticity to it. I wish I found the caves and hot spring you mention, but I would easily say it’s not a must-see on a trip to Thailand, especially if you’re strapped for time.

Couldn’t agree more with this. And don’t forget the infamous “Pai tattoo,” earned via motorbike accident. I earned mine while motorbiking around the back-roads. I was so in awe of the scenery around me, that I failed to notice the impending pothole of doom. Next thing I know, I’m on the ground bleeding in six places, at which point a lovely Thai woman came to my rescue, brushed the dirt off my shoulders, and pointed to my bike suggesting I hop right back on. (It seems that Thai people are much tougher than I am. Haha) Nevertheless, I drove my traumatized little self to my first hospital visit in South East Asia. And I am only one of many.

I am planning on visiting, nice to be prepared for some of these things. Definitely not looking for a party — I don’t even drink, and I am not twenty-something. But, I am looking forward to the hiking, biking and such. Thanks for the heads up!

I understand completely! I\’m so glad we first found Pai in 2001, before the masses arrived and ruined it in many ways. I am hoping, as Van Vieng in Laos did, that the locals will understand that they can bring in tourist money even with a much more subdued and traditional town.

Accurate summation Matt! Even though my wife and I are those ‘older category’ backpackers, we enjoyed Pai immensely. You make of a place what you want, and we searched and ‘found’ what we wanted – some countryside, cool cafés, awesome tranquil accommodation on the outskirts… We sidestepped the party goers, and avoided party hotspots so as not to be annoyed by ‘those ones’. Coolest parts: chai tea in the market, those bamboo hot tea drinks, staying outside town (tranquility), exploring with scooter and riding the circle loop, riding scooter back to Chiang Mai (beautiful).

I kind of felt the same way about Pai when I visited four years ago. About that time it was just getting developed as the backpacker hangout of the north. I knew it wouldn’t be long until things got out of hand.

I personally loved it but I stayed in a bungalow on a beautiful property about 5 km out of town. I did a fantastic cooking class, swam under the waterfall, scootered to the hot springs far out of town and loved the street food along the main street in the evening (I didn’t see the western street food you are talking about, only skewers, roti, fish cakes etc which were all delicious). At 33 I am past my partying years but I liked going into town for dinner and to browse the shops and all of the Thai people I met were so friendly. The countryside is so beautiful

Thank you! I also struggled with the let’s party and get drunk backpacking culture when I was travelling in SE Asia. And a lot of Thai people understandably found it obnoxious when Westerners treat their home like The Hangover. But on the positive side, I met awesome solo lady travelers.

I’m not really into the whole party atmosphere, but Pai does look gorgeous. I could spend every day in the mountains, next to waterfalls and exploring caves ! 🙂
Can’t wait to go to Thailand in the summer.

I have to say Pai impresses me with its vegan food. There are a number of places to get vegan food that has interesting twists…a little out of the ordinary. But yes, there are Alot of backpackers in Pai – not for everyone.

So much of Thailand has been ruined by over-tourism. I’m sorry, can’t believe people still go to Pai just as I can’t believe they still go to Phi Phi. I’d recommend Mae Hong Son instead – more out of the way but you’ll see the same mountain vistas and caves without the tourist hordes. In fact there are many place up north where you can get off the beaten track. Pai is, as you say, not one of them.

I also think that many places in Thailand are being ruined by over tourism. Yet, those who will look will find many amazing places that are not so famous, those little pieces of heaven definitely worth visiting.

I completely agree – I was in Pai earlier this year and enjoyed it, not for the town itself but for the setting. Renting a motorbike for $3/day and just driving around through mountains, finding cool viewpoints, waterfalls… that was amazing. But I agree, I wish I’d been years ago, before Pai was so Westernized. When I was on the way from Chiang Mai, I remember other backpackers saying, “you HAVE to find the lasagna lady!” I’m sure her lasagna is great, but that’s not what I go to Thailand for!!

Interesting that you mentioned those annoyances you found while in Pai, Matt. My wife and I were there and avoided the touristy backpackers and sprung literally a few dollars more for something quieter and with view of rice fields and mountains in the background. We really did love it but I did find the abundance of western breakfast food a bit strange, if not welcome.

We visited during the offseason so lots of stuff was running at minimum capacity and fewer people were in Pai, so maybe we just lucked out. That waterfall you had a picture of was starting to get crowded (with 4 people) the day we went and luckily there was time for some quiet moments and chances to take photos when the light was nice.

I agree with you on the Thai food options being thin and even that was overpriced in a couple of spots. There was one place near the “Market Street” that had some good stuff but got crowded by the tour groups. We were at a point in our trip where dinner time just happened earlier than everyone else.

Nevertheless, my favorite moments were during drives through those winding roads surrounded by green mountains and valleys on all sides. Breakfast food might work its way into my memories but I’ll always remember those rolling fields of green.

Thanks for reminding me of that part of it, Matt. I appreciate your honesty with the rest. Take care.

I loved everything that you say. I was in Pai some days ago and I felt the same. One thing that I need to mention it’s me and my boyfriend are traveling around the world and sometimes we are in these places that backpackers loves because of the western vibe, food and party but we don’t actually live this. It’s just a matter of looking for the right places to go. For us is always very expensive – the cafes, restaurants and bars – and we don’t really enjoy the mood. And I do agreed about the area around, taking a motorbike and just ride there was amazing. Thanks for sharing.

Hi Matt, On reading your comments on Thailand, i would like to share some thoughts. We are 2 senior backpackers and have travelled extensively through South East Asia using most methods of travel.. I share your thoughts on Pai but in context I found it similar to Luang Prabang (Laos) Byron Bay (in Australia) etc – over-rated and organised “westernised” night scenes, some great things to see but leave me out of the “party scenes”. In Pai we have watched an enormous Temple being constructed over 2-3 years (and 2-3visits), visited the Japanese bridge and markets with its historical significance, elephant parks, caves, waterfalls etc. We have also stayed and shopped in town in great cheap accommodation, found the real local ambience which existed prior to throngs of backpackers, and found some locals needy of some opportunity to make ends meet. Like you I have mastered the Thai language (reading and writing, but not yet speaking well), and helped locals both young and old in their ongoing English learning process. Sure, it is not “undiscovered” any more, but I feel a trip to Northern Thailand would be a lesser experience if it were not included . We are just home after 9 weeks in SE Asia, with 2 weeks in Northern Thailand We chose car hire (toyota vigo ute) and find savings on accommodation, eating, tours etc to subsidise the cost of hire. We prefer the North and East of Thailand, and have had great experiences in some of the most remote places. Keep up the great work as I enjoy your site for its honest and forthright reporting and insights, in a sea of “smarmy, contrived and “would be” sites seeking only to forward business interests. Hope your new staff member can keep up the good work.

I felt quite similar about Pai when I went a year ago. When I visited Thailand 3 years ago for the first time, I didn’t even here much about it then. I made sure I went this time because of everyone’s recommendations and sure it was a great town but almost more western than Thai.
Renting a scooter and cruising out to the Tham Lot Cave and waterfalls in the mountains was definitely the best part! The Pai Canyon was a sight to see as well.

Totally agree, Matt. We we there for a couple of nights in October en route to a three night stay at Cave Lodge, which pretty much sits on the doorstep of Tham Lot cave. So, rather than take a day trip out from Pai you get to stay in a lovely jungle lodge with access to further fabulous caves, one to three day kayaking trips through fairly gentle rapids, and guided treks through the glorious hillsides bordering Myanmar – and all without the crowds. So for us, Pai would be a decent choice as a one-night stopover only.

I’ve watched as it has slowly turned from a place I loved into a resorty, touristy place that is starting to show the growing pains I’m seeing in the rest of Thailand as well. I feel like I contributed to that in a small way (not to be arrogant, but I know I’ve sent plenty of people there). It’s sad to see how quickly it changed just over the past 3 years.

I’m planning on spending a month in Pai at a Kung Fu retreat nestled up in the mountains. Won’t get too much time to explore but I’m glad to know what to expect and try to stay off the beaten path. Will definitely explore the hot springs and the caves while I’m there!

Thanks for the write-up Matt. Pai is what it is and shows itself to different people in different ways. Thailand has always been a place that is easy on the eye and easy on the pocket. Brilliant for first-time backpackers and a place of “rest” for more experienced ones.
I first went to Thailand in 1999 and back then most things were still written in Thai Sanskrit and since then I’ve been coming and going in other various Asian countries like India, Indonesia & Hong Kong. I went to Thailand for “a break” after travelling around Vietnam in 2007, and then I went back again with husband and child in tow, in 2014 and of course, each visit was different. Because I was different!

Thanks Matt. Another great, honest and insightful write-up.
My partner and I were in Pai a month ago and as a couple in our mid-30s, it was a challenge to see what the hype was all about. We continued on to Sappong for the caves and made our way up north to Pang Ung seeking nature. In saying all this, I think that’s the attraction of Thailand – there so many places to explore on both the beaten and less beaten path. You can truly make it your own adventure.

I only spent four days in Pai but I really loved it, but I can definitely understand what you are talking about it. It is a great spot for budget backpackers who want cheap places to stay, meet other travelers, and have a good party. I loved renting a moto and exploring the outskirts of the city, and the food was delicious. But I definitely have heard from so many people, “Pai used to be so much better”. I wish I could have seen it back in it’s prime, but I still loved my time there.

I would have to disagree, Pai is still awesome. If you want traditional perhaps you should have visited the Hill Tribe or got off the “beaten path” of Pai. Yes, there are drunks, etc, but it is nothing compared to the South and Beaches.

When I talk to the other backpackers here, I get a sense that they want to live freshman year of college forever. It is like meeting the 18 year old version of myself, except that these travelers are often older than me. Pai is truly a frightening place inside the town, the countryside is lovely though.

Thank you for sharing this! I am planning a trip to Thailand and we don’t have a lot of time so I was debating whether I am more interested in going to Pai or Chiang Rai. After reading your article, I think I would have enjoyed Pai, but would have been a tad disappointed. I didn’t realize there was such a big party scene there among tourists, and I didn’t think the Western influences would be so strong — I was imagining something more along the lines of a secluded getaway with lots of local food and art. Super helpful 😀

Thanks for this post on your blog site. I’m in Pai right now. Day three and feeling grumpy, irritable, and I couldn’t figure out why I was disliking this place so much. I knew the overly touristy vibe was part of it. And, lots of young partiers who drop f-bombs and say the word “dude” a lot. I find myself just craving some peace and quiet and a patch of grass to read my book. Nice to know I’m not crazy.