There often times very stubborn. Make doubly sure that all the nuts are off. The ones near the flywheel are difficult to see and access. Sometimes it helps to use a large screwdriver (Never pry between the pan and engine surface) but by using the tight space near the flywheel area you can sometimes nudge sideways using leverage while tapping sideways with the rubber mallet. Once it breaks the bead anywhere it usually helps because you will be able to shift the pan from side to side a little bit. I have had success ( because you sometimes can't hit the pan hard enough and with accuracy) using a small piece of wood 1" x 1" and place the wood on the edge of the pan and use a regular hammer of rubber mallet and give it a few good sideways raps in different locations on the pan and with a little patience and not to many 4 letter words you will have success. Good Luck and hopefully this was a little helpful.

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Related Questions:

Lift your car and place on jack stands. Then drain engine oil from pan. If there is/are any other steering or suspension components under oil pan, remove these first. Then, begin removing all bolts that hold pan in place. There should be a few bolts that come from the rear of the transmission section that also hold engine oil pan. Remove these. Once all bolts are removed, use a rubber mallet to tap oil pan until is breaks loose. If hard to remove, use a pry bar or flat head screw driver to pry oil pan off. Install in reverse order.

The pan is glued to the bottom of the block with an RTV-type sealant. You need to carefully pry the pan away from the block, because it is easily bent and bending can cause leaks. Some suggest hitting the side of pan with a soft rubber mallet to break the seal. In this as well, take care not to bend the pan.

The official shop manual reads :
Remove nose cone brackets bolts from oil pan.
Remove lower transmission flange to oil pan bolts.
Remove oil pan bolts.
Using designated pry points to break loose the seal. Bump the pan with a rubber mallet to loosen the pan from the engine block.
Remove oil pan.
By the illustrations, the only thing in the way is the oil pickup tube.... Good luck !
t

Drain the oil, remove all but four pan bolts, loosen the remaining pan bolts until they're very loose, whack the sides of the pan with a large rubber mallet to dislodge the gasket. Remove the four remaining pan bolts, lower pan to the ground.

Be ready to do everything you need to do fairly quickly; don't let that engine stand open overnight, or it'll pick up dust & condensate inside.

If you're sure you have all the bolts out than tap it from the side with a rubber mallet. If the used an RTV style gasket maker for the oil pan gasket then that is what is holding the pan in place. Hitting it with the rubber mallet will break it free.

1. Lift at least the passenger front side of the car using a jack, jack-stand, and blocks on the rear wheels

2. Drain the oil out of the pan by removing the drain plug (just like an oil change)

3. Remove all of the bolts on the outside edge of the oil pan (should be about 11)

4. After all of the bolts have been removed the oil pan is free to come off. It might still be stuck on and a few gentle taps with a rubber mallet with knock it loose. Be aware that there is still some oil inside the pan, so this step will be pretty messy

5. Clean the surface of the engine where the oil pan was mounted against

6. Take your new oil pan and place the gasket around the rim of the pan (if not using a gasket then put liquid gasket around the rim. This is important to ensure the pan doesn't leak)

7. Place the oil pan on the engine and bolt it back on. Start by tightening on bolt, then one as close to 180 degrees across from it. Repeat until all the bolts are tightened.

8. Fill the oil pan with new oil. You may also wish to remove and replace the oil filter.

9. If you used liquid gasket, give it a few hours to set (look at contained for a recommend amount of time to wait). If you used a rubber gasket, you don't need to wait.

10. Start the engine and check for leaks. If you notice any oil leaking from around the seal then turn the engine off, go back to step 2 and then repeat from there on. If you don't see any leaks, you are good to go.

make sure you have taken out ALL the bolts,especially the ones in the front that go to the timing case cover and the 2 bolts all the way in the back, then give the oil pan a few GOOD raps with a rubber mallet. they get stuck on pretty tight. you can also use a very stiff scraper and get in between the oil pan and the engine,make sure you don't bend the pan but a few good raps on the scraper should break the gasket seal. Hope this helps Thanks Ray

drain the oil
remove all bolts from the pan.
verify new gasket hole patern matches your pan
use a high temperature silicone and put silicone on pan and stick new gasket to pan makig sure all holes line up.
when re-installing start at the corners of the oil pan and then go in a clockwise motion adding one bolt to the opposite side if the corner bolts until all bolts have been replaced.
tighten all bolts evenly starting in the cornersdo a criss cross pattern when tightening bolts to make sure pan seats properly
go back and snug any loose bolts
if you have a torque wrench or want to rent one go ahead and torque bolts to.
done.