A tiered tea service is served at Chat Noir in Rockville Centre. (March 17, 2010) (Credit: Timothy Fadek)

Chat Noir is the brainchild of Emma Tso, who left a career as an X-ray technician to become a pastry chef. Tso first opened Chat Noir as a tearoom serving breakfast and lunch, but last month added dinner and a well-edited wine list. Good taste rules here, both in the food and the polished decor. Beautiful china; no ruffles, no lace. BREAKFAST AND LUNCH Tso makes virtually everything, including the...

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Location: 230 Merrick Rd. Rockville Centre, NY 11570

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Description: Good taste rules here, both in the food and the polished decor. Mainly a tearoom, ... More »

Chat Noir is the brainchild of Emma Tso, who left a career as an X-ray technician to become a pastry chef. Tso first opened Chat Noir as a tearoom serving breakfast and lunch, but last month added dinner and a well-edited wine list.

Good taste rules here, both in the food and the polished decor. Beautiful china; no ruffles, no lace.

BREAKFAST AND LUNCH

Tso makes virtually everything, including the brioche for incomparable orange French toast - lightly crisp, custardy and fragrant. I crave it constantly.

Brava for the tender-crusted spinach and bacon quiche and savory spinach and mushroom crepes. Also, Tso's smoked salmon and cucumber sandwich on house-made brioche is simple perfection, plated with a judiciously dressed salad.

The tiered tea service is a treat. Among the superior sandwiches are ham and Brie with apricot spread and cucumber with crème fraîche. Warm maple-walnut and chocolate-chip scones are served with clotted cream and berry jam. There are miniature cream-filled pastries, one shaped like a swan. And, to drink with all, a pot of freshly brewed aromatic tea. Peach is a personal favorite.

DINNER

Everything in Tso's breadbasket is irresistible but better suited to brunch than dinner. I have a chive scone plus squares of sweet warm cornbread and chocolate zucchini loaf wrapped to go; it makes a fine dessert the next day.

A bowl of carrot-apple soup is vibrant, generous. Inordinately light ricotta gnocchi with truffle-sage butter are delicious, if monochromatic. I'm let down that my black tea-marinated skirt steak is pre-sliced and well-done rather than rare. But the accompanying blue cheese polenta is comfort itself. Boneless coq au vin with vegetables is served over gummy spaetzle.