How to Buy the Right Coconut Milk (or Water) (or Cream)

Sure, you can drink a coconut in a lot of different ways. But that doesn't mean you should. Here, a guide to which coconut products will hydrate you after a workout, and which should you stir into a cake.

Maybe it's the work of the lactose intolerance lobby. Maybe it's the rise of veganism. Or maybe it's the (somewhat) recent resurgence of tiki. Whatever the reason, coconuts are having a heyday, with the fruit being used in every form: water, milk, sugar—even vinegar and flour.

But let's say you're new to the coconut scene. Let's say you don't know what to drink after your workout—coconut water, or coconut cream? Where does a person go to get Coconut 101?

Glad you asked.

Coconuts aren't animals, so how the heck do you make coconut milk?

The short method: shred a freshly opened coconut's meat, simmer in water to extract the coconut's flavor, and strain out the pieces. Let the liquid separate into a fat-rich cream layer and a thin “skim” layer.

I see recipes calling for coconut milk, others for coconut water, and some for coconut cream. Sometimes I'll even see "cream of coconut." What’s the difference?

Coconut Water:The much-touted coconut water comes from unmature, green coconuts. It’s high in potassium, making it a popular choice for athletes. Aside from just hydration, coconut water can be used for sorbets and salad dressings (see chef Harold Dieterle of Petrilla and Kin Shop's raw broccoli salad with coconut water).

Coconut Milk:Coconut milk is an emulsion of two fluids: coconut cream and coconut water. At cooler temperatures, coconut milk separates into its components, and the cream rises to the top (to keep the milk emulsified, work with it at room temperature). This is the workhorse Thai ingredient—pour some into a simmering curry as you're finishing the dish.

Coconut Cream:Coconut cream provides the body to coconut milk; it's also sold on its own. It's thicker and higher in fat than the water, making it a rich addition to sauces. It can also be used as a cooking fat (Ann Redding, founder of Uncle Boon's, uses it to fry spices.) Coconut cream should not be confused with cream of coconut, which is coconut cream with added sugar. (Cream of coconut's rich flavor is generally best in desserts or tropical drinks; it's not ideal for curry dishes.)

One time I opened a can of coconut milk and found this thick yogurt-looking stuff instead. Was that coconut cream?

Yes! You can scoop it out and save it (refrigerate the can overnight to make this easier—all the cream will rise to the top), or you let the can come to room temp and stir the cream and water together to get coconut milk.

Is coconut milk better for me?

Maybe. Most mass-market coconut milks have 10 grams of saturated fat and only 2 grams of protein, whereas zero-fat skim milk contains 8 grams of protein per serving. But that extra fat in coconut milk might not necessarily be bad for you. In fact, Frances Largeman-Roth, nutritionist and author of Eating in Color, says the fat content in coconut milk can actually be good for you. Because while coconut milk does contain saturated fat, this particular fat is made up of medium chain triglycerides that raises cholesterol, but only HDL cholesterol (in other words, the good kind). “Coconut has saturated fat, so nutritionists for a long time put it on the 'no' list," says Largeman-Roth. "It’s high in fat, but it’s not doing the same amount of damage as animal fats.”

Last time I was at the grocery store, I saw coconut milk in a can and coconut milk in a carton. Which do I drink?

It doesn't matter so much, but probably the carton. Cartoned coconut milk is a relatively new supermarket addition from brands known for dairy alternatives. These will contain more water, additional sweeteners, and some stabilizers like guar gum. Canned coconut milk is meant for cooking and baking, as it's thicker and less modified than the carton variety.