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E46 (1999 - 2006) The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

If you're just looking for 'track and summer play' I would consider getting some camber plates and a slightly beefier front sway bar. I've tracked E36s and E46s in MANY different configurations and I've noticed that the single biggest difference is made with -3* to -3.5* of camber at the front wheels. I got a much better driving experience with that than I did with different springs and no additional neg camber in the front.

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Building a ZHP wagon... click the pic!!!-.-.-.--.-.-.-Because BMW wouldn't do it for me

If you're just looking for 'track and summer play' I would consider getting some camber plates and a slightly beefier front sway bar. I've tracked E36s and E46s in MANY different configurations and I've noticed that the single biggest difference is made with -3* to -3.5* of camber at the front wheels. I got a much better driving experience with that than I did with different springs and no additional neg camber in the front.

interesting... anyone have input on this?.. one thing that also drives me nuts and why i looked at springs is the larger wheel gap in the front.

That said, I have ground control coilovers (springs: 450f, 550r) w/ koni single adjustable shocks & vorshlag camber plates... the car is fun.

What he said, but that said, I have TC Kline coilovers with 500/600 springs, single adjustable shocks, and vorshlag camber plates set at -3.0* of camber. Also have UUC Swaybarbarian sway bars, as does KrisL, mine are at 1 notch from full stiff up front, full stiff in the rear. The car is very neutral and easy to rotate. Oh, also run a square wheel/tire setup, as does KrisL. 255/35/18 all around.

I much prefer this suspension to the stock ZHP suspension. It is firm, but better damped. The shocks are top adjustable and I run mine much firmer than Kris does. At full firm up front, half turn from full in the rear (my track and autox setup) the car is only good on smooth surfaces. For normal driving I move both an additional half turn towards soft and like it there. My "commute" type driving is all mountain twisties, so I choose handling over comfort.

I don't think you'll get -3.0* of camber with the stock springs up front, but I don't know for sure. They are substantially larger in diameter than aftermarket coil over springs. Search on my username and "TC Kline" and you will find a thread from a few years ago where I chronicled my suspension install with lots of pictures comparing stock and TCK. You'll see what I mean about the springs. Their size may limit the movement of the strut assembly...

but I don't recommend -3.0* for a car that does mostly freeway commute driving... you'll wear out the inside edge of your tires in no time. -2.0 is probably better for that and if you desire -3.0 for track days, then you can change it, but you also have to change your toe setting up front as increased camber = toe change. A camber gauge and toe plates is all you need to adjust the front end alignment... and some wrenches and a perfectly level surface.

well the roads here in NE aren't nearly as nice as CA, and already having done the entire suspension over in another car, i don't think i'll be going all out with this one. i was just curious to see if anyone had a particular spring/shock combo that they preferred for something like a seasonal change and for the occasional track day.

well the roads here in NE aren't nearly as nice as CA, and already having done the entire suspension over in another car, i don't think i'll be going all out with this one. i was just curious to see if anyone had a particular spring/shock combo that they preferred for something like a seasonal change and for the occasional track day.

I'd start with camber and the next step would simply be Koni single adjustable shocks with the OEM springs.