I hope you all had such a lovely weekend! I have been working on such a crazy project for the last several weeks and I'm finally almost ready to share it with you guys. I'm sore, and bruised, and it's going to be soooo amazing! Yahoo! So today's plan is a reader request for a simple wardrobe for storing supplies! Yay, we can all use that, especially me. Only perhaps what I really need is to simply get rid of some of my supplies because they reached hoarder status a long time ago. Ugh. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the cabinet. The cabinet can be secure in one of two ways – by using a Kreg jig and drilling pocket holes or by using countersunk 2-1/2” screws. If using pocket holes, set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each shorter end of the top and bottom pieces. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes along each shorter edge of the sides. Secure the top and bottom using glue and 2-1/2” countersunk screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. If using the pocket hole screw method, drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back. Position the piece inside the cabinet then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes along the back edges of the cabinet. Position the back inside, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” screws.

Step 3

Install the closet rod according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, cutting it to fit (if necessary) using a hacksaw. The rod will be positioned approximately 5” down from the inside of the top.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” cap around all sides of the doors in the opening as well as in between them. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls on the doors.

Step 5

Install the casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pickford Cabinet, with two drawers and four cubbies with doors.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter

Drill

Router with a rabbeting bit to cut a 3/8” wide by ¼” deep rabbet

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Brad Nailer

Hammer

Wood Chisel

Lumber

1 – 1x2 at 8’

1 – 1x2 at 4’

1 half sheet of ½” plywood

1 full sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1” pocket hole screws

1-1/4” pocket hole screws

1/2” brad nails

Edge banding

4 sets of non-mortise hinges

12 cabinet pulls

2 door handles

Glass or acrylic cut to fit inside glass door frames

4 bun feet at 3” tall plus plates for installation

Wood filler

Sandpaper

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾”plywood at 13-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Top & Bottom

2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48-1/2” – Sides

1 – ¾”plywood at 11-1/2” x 48-1/2” – Divider

4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 13-7/8” – Shelves

2 – ½” plywood at 10-1/4” x 12-5/8” – Drawer Bottoms

4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 10-1/4” – Drawer Sides

4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 13-5/8” – Drawer Front & Back

12 – ¼” plywood at 6-3/4” x 7-7/16” – False Drawer Fronts

2 – ½” plywood at 13-5/8” x 15-3/8” – Doors

4 – 1x2 at 10-5/8” – Door Rails

4 – 1x2 at 23-5/8” – Door Stiles

2 – ½” plywood at 20-5/8” – Glass Door Divider

8 – ½” plywood at 4-9/16” – Glass Door Divider

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Position the sides on the bottom so that they are ¾” in from each side, and ¾” away from the front and back edges. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the back between the side pieces so that the outside face is flush with the back edge of the sides. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with ¾” overlapping on all sides.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes and the false drawer fronts. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Position the false drawer fronts as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. The false drawer fronts will be positioned so they overhang the top and bottom of the door by about 1/16”. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the glass door frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the ¾” rails locating the holes so that the router bit will not interfere with the screws. Secure the rails to the stiles using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet on the inside of the frame for the glass. Use a hammer and a chisel to square the corners.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the divider pieces. Secure the dividers to the frame so that the outside face is flush with the outside face of the frame (the glass will rest on top of the dividers) using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Secure the glass using a bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the rabbet.

Install all of the cabinet pulls and handles as desired.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk! I absolutely love the patchwork pieces from West Elm, so this is heavily inspired by that...allegedly...

Stay tuned because later we will be back with a fun giveaway and a little resolution inspiration!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the base frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the top into the frame.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the center divider. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes previously drilled in the sides, divider, and back.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the fixed shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the pull-out shelves. These shelves will use the roller drawer slides in order to make them moveable. The position is up to you… The upper pull-out shelf can be used for a printer so the height of the printer will have to measured before the shelf can be installed. Mark the position and install the slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer boxes by 3/8”. Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the larger door, then secure the hinges to the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.

Install the hinges on the bottom of the door used as the desktop. Install the drop down supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments. Install the magnetic catch at the top of the opening to keep the door closed when not in use. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.

Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

I'm really excited to post this project because I was excited to find it browsing through my latest PotteryBarn catalog! Absolutely a stunner, to be sure!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter

Drill

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

4 sheets of ¾” plywood

1 sheet of ½” plywood

2 sheets of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard

5 – 1x2 at 8’

2 – 1x3 at 8’

2 – 1x4 at 8’

1 – 1x4 at 6’

1 – 1x6 at 4’

1 – 1x8 at 4’

2 – 8’ casing

2 – 8’ baseboard

Materials

1” pocket hole screws

1-1/4” pocket hole screws

1-1/4” screws

Sliding Door Hardware – Rockler part no. 38905

Edge banding for plywood, if desired

Countersink bit for drill

Wood filler

Sandpaper

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x3 at 19” – Side Frames

2 – 1x6 at 19” – Side Frames

2 – 1x8 at 19” (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) – Side Frame

2 – 1x3 at 65-1/4” – Side Frames

2 – ½” plywood at 19” x 24-7/8” – Side Frame Panels

2 – ½” plywood at 19” x 26-3/8” – Side Frame Panels

2 – 1x2 at 22-1/2” – Bottom Shelf Support

1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 91-1/2” – Bottom

2 – 1x4 at 91-1/2” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) - Bottom Supports

3 – 1x4 at 22-1/2” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) – Bottom Supports

2 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 61-1/4” – Dividers

18 – 1x2 at 23-1/4” – Side & Center Shelf Supports

6 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 23-1/2” – Side Shelves

2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 23-1/4” – Lower Dividers

3 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 43” – Center Shelves

1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 23-1/4” – Upper Divider

1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4” x 95” – Top

2 – ¼” plywood at 33” x 93” – Back

2 – Casing & Baseboard Trim at 95” – Upper & Lower Trim

2 – Casing Trim at 25-1/4” – Upper Trim

2 - Baseboard Trim at 25” –Lower Trim

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the side panels as shown. Insert into the frames and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately ¾” from the front edge. Secure the bottom to the side panels as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the shelf into the supports.

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the side shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.

Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelves into the supports.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the center shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the lower divider. Drill pocket holes in one long edge only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the divider ¾” back from the front edge.

Cut the piece for the lower shelf. Secure to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelf into the supports as well as into the divider.

Step 7

Attach the next divider and shelf in the same manner as Step 6. Also attach the upper shelf to the shelf supports.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the upper divider and attach in the same manner as the other dividers.

Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately 1-1/4” from the front edge. The top willoverlap by 1-1/4" in the front and 3/4" on the sides. Attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails through the top into the dividers and sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The measurements for the pieces can be adjusted so that the seam falls behind a shelf.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. Assemble in the same manner as the side frames. Attach the door sliding hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 12

Cut the pieces for the casing and baseboard trim. Attach the sides first, then the front. Place the upper trim as close to the front edge as possible to allow for the doors to slide.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

We are back with part 2 of this project for the drawers and corkboard bin, after we covered part 1 yesterday (found here). This DIY Furniture plan is sure to solve quite a bit of your storage issues, so get building!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Corkboard Frame:

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1x2 and the 1x6 pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a ¼” deep rabbet on the back side of the frame at the opening for the cork. Cut the cork to fit and glue in the opening.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the bin sides and bottom. Attach the sides to the sides of the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach to the frame from the back side with 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the bin sides and bottom.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the front of the bin. Attach to the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the corkboard to the door with countersunk 1-1/4” screws making sure to avoid the mirror.

Step 4

For the Drawers:

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Assemble as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The drawer fronts will be ¼” longer than the sides and back to accommodate the bottom.

Step 5

Cut the dowel pieces for the bottom support. Attach to the inside of the drawer front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bottom of the dowel will be flush with the bottom of the sides.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the sides and bottom support using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill holes in the front for the knob or handle.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

An amazing storage piece with a fold down top that allows for the perfect hide away work surface!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of the shelves. Secure to sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 1x4 piece will go in the front while the 1x2 piece will be in the back.

Cut the piece for the lower trim support and attach to the cabinet under the lowest shelf in the same manner as the other supports.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the inner cubby. Attach the sides to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws flush with the back at the spacing indicated.

Attach the bottom cubby piece first using glue and brad nails through the bottom into the side pieces. Attach the center support at the spacing indicated with brad nails through the bottom into the support. Fasten the top piece in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and center support.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the cubby drawers. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown in the drawing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the bottom. Attach the front and back pieces in the same manner with brad nails through the pieces into the sides and bottom.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the work surface and the trim. Fasten the trim to the work surface front with glue and clamp until dry. Attach the continuous hinge to the work surface, then to the shelf. There will be an approximate 1/8” gap around all sides of the work surface in the opening. Attach the drop front supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, front support, and back support. The top will hang over the sides and front by ¾”.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Attach the side trim first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the front piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front into the lower support.

Cut the casing pieces for the top side trim with a 45 deg. miter on the front edge. Attach to the sides of the cabinet under the top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Measure for the front trim and cut this piece with a 45 deg. miter on each end. Fasten to the cabinet in the same manner.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the other drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the side pieces and assemble as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the bottoms and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Attach the drawer slides to the drawers and cabinet following the manufacturer’s instructions. The slides will need to be positioned 1” from the front edge of the cabinet. Do not attach the drawer fronts!

Step 10

Cut the pieces and trim for the drawer fronts. These will be assembled in the same manner as the work surface. After assembly, drill holes for the knobs or handles. Shim the drawer fronts in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill screws through the holes for the knobs into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers, and secure the fronts to the boxes using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the knob holes and finish drilling out the holes.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.