Seal the haddock fillet in parcel of foil with a drizzle of olive oil and some seasoning. Bake for 15 minutes in the centre of the oven. Remove from the foil parcel and leave to cool slightly.

Whisk together the eggs and crème fraiche until well mixed and add a good grinding of pepper and salt. Finely chop the chives (and dill if using) and add half of the herbs to the egg mix.

Flake the smoked haddock, carefully removing any bones or skin.

Heat the butter in an omelette pan (or heavy frying pan) over a moderate to high heat until sizzling and turning golden. Test the pan is hot enough by pouring in a drizzle of egg to check that it immediately sizzles and turns golden.

Quickly pour all of the egg mixture into the hot pan and scatter the flaked haddock over the top. Use a wooden spoon or spatula to draw the set edges of the omelette into the middle of the pan as it cooks, allowing the still raw egg mix to flood to the edges of the pan.

Scatter over the remaining herbs and gruyere and leave to cook for a minute or two until the egg has nearly set. There should still be a bit of a wobble.

Fold the omelette in half as you slide it out of the pan onto a plate and serve with a salad of watercress and spinach leaves.

Variations

Use smoked salmon in place of the haddock. This doesn’t need any pre-cooking; roughly chop into bitesize pieces and flake into the eggs as above.