Rims haven't even started rebuild yet The finisher is busy right now as a lot of the industry uses this finisher and they are getting ready for SEMA. May have to persuade the finisher with a couple c-notes to re-prioritize his to-do list.

Rims ready or not, I'm still dropping the car off next week to get the other stuff done.

Yes, got it done. KW's are great. He had it set on the recommend settings, but I was bottoming out the front end during my drive on Sunday. So I had him increase the front end rebound and bump. I drove home and its now its many a little too much for DD. I see how it feels after this week.

If I do go with a rebuild, front offset would be about equivalent 20x10 +20. On the rear, there's room for a 10mm spacer making net offset of +8 on the stock LM-R. I'd do a 20x11 +20 which would be like x10 +8

I'm not sure yet if I will go that route. But my reasons for considering it include:
1) wider rims
2) wider lips
3) being able to go more aggressive on rear without need to run a spacer
4) I'm not completely sold on the lip finish of the LM-R
5) flexibility in fixing a bent barrel/lip on a 3-piece wheel

Great mods so far! I wouldn't mess with the wheels for a couple of reasons:

1 - I believe that BBS' barrels are fully forged unlike most company's 3-piece barrels which are roll forged. If I'm right, that means that they are stronger which is a good thing on a 20" wheel.

2 - you gain nothing by widening the front wheel. You are limited with tire sizing because you chose a 20" wheel. The widest tire that you can fit up front is 255/30/20. 265/30 is too tall. I wouldn't put a 255/30 on a 10" wheel. You could maybe fit a 275/25 or 285/25 but good luck finding that size and the side-wall will be super thin. You really have much better sizing options with 19" or 18" wheels....

3 - you gain little by widening the rear wheel. IMO the best tire size for 20" wheels is 285/30/20. That will give you the tallest side-wall while still fitting. 295/30 or more is too tall. A 10" wheel is perfect for the 285/30. If you go with a wider tire you will need to step down to a 25-series tire. I ran 305/25/20's when I had 20" wheels because I had a 11" wide rim. It worked fine and it's not a bad approach, but if I were running 20's again, I would chose a 285/30/20 tire and 10" or 10.5" rear wheels.

Yes, got it done. KW's are great. He had it set on the recommend settings, but I was bottoming out the front end during my drive on Sunday. So I had him increase the front end rebound and bump. I drove home and its now its many a little too much for DD. I see how it feels after this week.

Darwin will dial it in for you. Is it too firm for daily driving? Maybe once you dial it in, you can switch settings yourself for your sunday drives.

Quote:

Originally Posted by slicer

Great mods so far! I wouldn't mess with the wheels for a couple of reasons:

1 - I believe that BBS' barrels are fully forged unlike most company's 3-piece barrels which are roll forged. If I'm right, that means that they are stronger which is a good thing on a 20" wheel.

2 - you gain nothing by widening the front wheel. You are limited with tire sizing because you chose a 20" wheel. The widest tire that you can fit up front is 255/30/20. 265/30 is too tall. I wouldn't put a 255/30 on a 10" wheel. You could maybe fit a 275/25 or 285/25 but good luck finding that size and the side-wall will be super thin. You really have much better sizing options with 19" or 18" wheels....

3 - you gain little by widening the rear wheel. IMO the best tire size for 20" wheels is 285/30/20. That will give you the tallest side-wall while still fitting. 295/30 or more is too tall. A 10" wheel is perfect for the 285/30. If you go with a wider tire you will need to step down to a 25-series tire. I ran 305/25/20's when I had 20" wheels because I had a 11" wide rim. It worked fine and it's not a bad approach, but if I were running 20's again, I would chose a 285/30/20 tire and 10" or 10.5" rear wheels.

I hope this helps!

1. Thank you for your kind words And yes, very helpful post. Since I originally posed the question, I've decided to proceed with the rim rebuild. Someone else also thought that BBS barrels are forged. That did play in my decision, but I still decided to go with the rebuild so I will be forgoing that positive aspect. However, I've been running 3-piece 20" rims for quite some time now, and haven't had issues.

2. I am not a big fan of the machined finish that came on the LM-R's so one reason for the rim rebuild was to get a polished or chrome lip on it. Another reason was to see if I could max out the lip size. And with the latter, run a wider tire. I'm going to run a 285/25 up front, or at least try. Probably going with a Michelin PSS. The 285/25 gives a pretty close match to OEM diameter.

3. If I stayed with the 10", I probably would have run a 275/30. Other LM-R owners seemed to encounter rubbing issues with the 285/30. Plan on the 11's is to run a 305/25, but Michelin (so I've heard) is going to phase out the PS2's in that size before making it in a PSS. Currently, it comes in a 295/25 in the PSS variety, so I'll run that until the 305 comes out. 315/25 comes closest to OEM diameter, but I wouldn't be able to fit that wide of a tire under the fender with the offsets I want to run.

Won't know til it's actually on the car and suspension is dialed in, but on paper it may work. It's a wide tire, but overall diameter is a tad smaller than OEM, and often times rubbing is due to diameter. If it rubs, I'll bring out the baseball bat ... playing only

Darwin will dial it in for you. Is it too firm for daily driving? Maybe once you dial it in, you can switch settings yourself for your sunday drives.

1. Thank you for your kind words And yes, very helpful post. Since I originally posed the question, I've decided to proceed with the rim rebuild. Someone else also thought that BBS barrels are forged. That did play in my decision, but I still decided to go with the rebuild so I will be forgoing that positive aspect. However, I've been running 3-piece 20" rims for quite some time now, and haven't had issues.

2. I am not a big fan of the machined finish that came on the LM-R's so one reason for the rim rebuild was to get a polished or chrome lip on it. Another reason was to see if I could max out the lip size. And with the latter, run a wider tire. I'm going to run a 285/25 up front, or at least try. Probably going with a Michelin PSS. The 285/25 gives a pretty close match to OEM diameter.

3. If I stayed with the 10", I probably would have run a 275/30. Other LM-R owners seemed to encounter rubbing issues with the 285/30. Plan on the 11's is to run a 305/25, but Michelin (so I've heard) is going to phase out the PS2's in that size before making it in a PSS. Currently, it comes in a 295/25 in the PSS variety, so I'll run that until the 305 comes out. 315/25 comes closest to OEM diameter, but I wouldn't be able to fit that wide of a tire under the fender with the offsets I want to run.

nope, I've had shaved trunks on all my cars. This Challenge lid has a rounded part above the roundel that extends into the lip, so I asked Darwin to have the lip molded to eliminate that contour as I won't have a roundel.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bapesta206

dude, you have to hurry and put the parts on! you are killin me!

haha. Darwin's a busy man!

Quote:

Originally Posted by WAHHKAOOM3

looking forward to hear the ride quality of those swift/kwv3 setup. you got the springs and camber plates from hpa?