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Stuck in a Rut

Stuck in a Rut

Barker, Dave

Last August, we hit a particularly bad bison jam on the road that cuts through Yellowstone National Park’s Lamar Valley. Humans rarely have the right-of-way in this bison-packed section of the Park, and our bus wasn’t going anywhere.

A ranger swaggered up to the driver’s window. “Is everyone in this bus over the age of 17?” he asked. The bus rumbled with laughter. You see, in late summer in Yellowstone, love is in the air as the bison go through the "rituals" of the rut.

The 12 of us in the Yellowstone Association Institute’s “Bison of Yellowstone” field seminar had a front-row seat to the entertainment of bison courtship. MSU emeritus professor of wildlife Harold Picton and professional storyteller Jim Garry guided us through the rut and other bison issues in the classroom and out in the field during the three-day class.

During the rut, the bulls become more aggressive as they assert their dominance to impress a mate. We often saw bulls sparring head-to-head with each other. Bulls and cows urinate and frolic in dirt wallows to mark their territory. Through a process called flehmen, the bulls curl back their lips to smell the cow urine and determine whether the cow has high enough levels of estrogen to breed. From our vantage point at roadside pull-offs, we gazed at the rut like peeping toms.

The pheromones hung thick in the air, but the most obvious sign of the rut was audible—rutting bison groaned, grumbled, and grunted. Even as darkness fell at our base camp at Lamar Buffalo Ranch, we could still hear the rut soundtrack from our cabins. According to Picton, the act of copulation usually occurs under the cover of darkness. Indeed, during our nighttime wildlife viewing, we often saw the cows and bulls pairing off at dusk.

During these evening and morning “safaris,” a host of other critters ventured in front of our scope or binocular lens. We saw coyotes chasing wolves, and we saw pronghorn, elk, deer, and raptors.

Garry and Picton have taught Institute courses for a combined 47 years, and they never answered “I don’t know” to our persistent questions. In the classroom, we covered bison physiology and contemporary issues like brucellosis and population management, and enjoyed a few of Garry’s Native American bison myths. Garry emphasized how bison myth should be incorporated into contemporary scientific and political debate. That myth revolves around the vastness of the Plains and the West, where accounts of bison herds stretching from horizon to horizon and taking three days to pass were not uncommon. “To see such a sight is to see into the mythic world,” said Garry. “We need bison to preserve the myth.”

Picton and Garry also stressed how our attendance at the class would eventually help reconcile the clashing sides in the debate over bison management. “Everyone has a say in this because it’s a national park,” said Garry. “By showing up, you have made yourself a part of the process.”

Whether you fancy bison, wildflowers, ghost hotels, or geology, the Yellowstone Association Institute, founded in 1976, probably has a class on the topic. To learn more, call 307-344-2293 or visit yellowstoneassociation.org.

Gateway Towns

As a frozen Yellowstone springs back to life, so do those famed gateway towns—West Yellowstone and Gardiner. Here's a look at what's lined up for spring.

AprilCycle DaysCycle free in Yellowstone Park before it’s open to motorized use. From West Yellowstone, ride to Madison Junction and to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone or Mammoth Hot Springs. Rollerbladers and hikers welcome. cycleyellowstone.com.

May 10Chamber of Commerce 10th Annual Spring Cycle TourChallenging ride begins in West Yellowstone and winds around Hebgen and Quake Lakes. Not up for 64 miles? Take the shuttle. Registration includes t-shirt, feed stations, and dinner. cycleyellowstone.com.

The Yellowstone Institute is a dominant force in local field seminars, but other organizations also have plenty to offer.

Off the Beaten Path586-1311 / 800-445-2995offthebeatenpath.comYou can choose from a number of programs that capture the essence of Yellowstone with these all-inclusive multiday adventures. Check the website for the spring schedule.

Yellowstone Glacier Adventure, Inc. 585-9041national-park-tours.comWant a custom trip in your favorite field of interest? Enjoy the magic of Yellowstone Park with a professional National Park Service/Forest Service licensed guide.

Yellowstone National Park(307) 344-7381nps.gov/yellCheck the updated website this May for upcoming events, specific dates, times, and locations.

Safari Yellowstone800-SAFARISsafariyellowstone.comTake a spring or summer safari in Yellowstone. With experienced guides, all ages and abilities are welcome to enjoy a safari in the park. Private and customized trips are available.