The 7007 does fit 29er, its on their website, cad drawings and on their invoice.
The 9007 has the brakes mounted in the seatstay which I would disagree unless I see someone that has the frame and confirms no flex in the seatstay with the travel.
Also the 9007 accepts larger chainrings as they probably squeezed a bit of the chainstay and that might lead to less space for larger tires.

The descriptions of M7007 and M9007 are very confusing on their website, but if I remember correctly, the agent at Pro-Mance told me M7007 is not compatible with 29" while M9007 is designed for 29" and that there was a real difference in the rear triangle design. A little bit head-scratching, but why not just play it safe and get the M9007? I believe they have boost and non-boost options available for both models. Ask about the details, and I'd only get what is in stock, otherwise you'll be waiting a while.

How's your build looking? I ordered the SL version on January 31 from Pro-Mance and just got a picture from the agent today. Ready to send out! It took longer because of the Chinese new year holiday in February, paint decal order, and on-demand manufacturing. But it should be lighter. Can't wait! Good deal at $800 all said and done (frame, shipping, painting, fees).Attachment 1192018.

Have you received your frame yet ? Haven't seen you posting in a while, looks like you received, built and went for a really long ride.

I got my bike completely built up on Saturday and have only managed to get in one short ride so far. I'll photograph and write up an initial review tonight and post here. All first impressions are very positive. Weight was 20.9 pounds with Maxxis Ikon 29x2.25" tires. Total build cost ~$3500 from new or lightly used parts online. It's a rocket!

In regards to your question about the brake mount on the seat stay, it makes routing awkward, as the internal routing port is quite far down the side of the chain stay towards the axle. Apart from looking awkward, however, I haven't noticed any changes to suspension feel or any flexing in the seat stay beyond normal.

I got my bike completely built up on Saturday and have only managed to get in one short ride so far. I'll photograph and write up an initial review tonight and post here. All first impressions are very positive. Weight was 20.9 pounds with Maxxis Ikon 29x2.25" tires. Total build cost ~$3500 from new or lightly used parts online. It's a rocket!

In regards to your question about the brake mount on the seat stay, it makes routing awkward, as the internal routing port is quite far down the side of the chain stay towards the axle. Apart from looking awkward, however, I haven't noticed any changes to suspension feel or any flexing in the seat stay beyond normal.

I thought you had ordered the version with the brake mounted in the chainstay. That's the one I ordered.

Before building did the rear triangle moved freely ? If yes then there should not be any flex. On the M06 for example it does not move freely. The seatstay act as a spring.

How do you pick a rear shock for a single pivot bike? Don't namebrands typically put a pedaling platform on a shock for a single pivot bike? I know Trek does. How do you arrive at a suitable aftermarket shock for a single pivot bike?

How do you pick a rear shock for a single pivot bike? Don't namebrands typically put a pedaling platform on a shock for a single pivot bike? I know Trek does. How do you arrive at a suitable aftermarket shock for a single pivot bike?

Always been confusing to me..

Why is this confusing? I don't mean to be rude, but Trek does nothing different than get a shock, put some hardware in there, and make some proprietary changes so they can pull marketing BS over your ears. You just go get the shock, buy the hardware kits, and put the shock in there. Yeah typically namebrands will sell framesets with shocks. That's not economical for the Chinese, but compare a Trek/Scott $3500 frameset with a shock to a name-brand and a $600 frameset without a shock from China and you will never see Trek or Scott in the same light again.

Just curious really, You see VPP or dw-link bikes running stock shocks but a lot of the single pivot players have some proprietary bullshit on their shocks to compensate. If the stock shocks from Fox or RS or whoever give good performance then that's great..

That is a nice looking frame! I like the specs and design and all, but I will say the folks at Tideace can be a bit sleazy. I ordered 5 hardtail frames of 2 different models in December and January that were supposedly in stock (I asked), and only just recently got 3 of them. Communication was awful, excuses were questionable, and I will not be ordering via Aliexpress from them again.

If you want a steeper HA there are other options which are lighter as well.

Well, I ordered the frame on 18 April, and they said they had it in stock. Only last week they sent me a picture of the frame painted and all, and it really did look good (see below). But they had many unreasonable excuses for taking so long.
Now, they are not shipping it. I asked a Chinese friend to send them a message in Chinese, threatening to cancel me order. They replied that the frame has a break in the chain stay...
So I am considering to open a dispute now. They really are sleazy indeed.

Well, I ordered the frame on 18 April, and they said they had it in stock. Only last week they sent me a picture of the frame painted and all, and it really did look good (see below). But they had many unreasonable excuses for taking so long.
Now, they are not shipping it. I asked a Chinese friend to send them a message in Chinese, threatening to cancel me order. They replied that the frame has a break in the chain stay...
So I am considering to open a dispute now. They really are sleazy indeed.

Nice looking frame indeed! Looks like a pleasure to ride, were it not for the "broken chainstay". DUDE WTF! No pics of the "broken chainstay"? Looks solid to me. I'd bet a lot that they lied about it being in stock just to keep your business.

They understand you, they use Aliexpress translate (powered by Google). That's not the issue.

How many days do you have left to open a dispute? Better keep an eye on that because after that expires they could get away without ever shipping it. If you open a dispute you will get your money back.

Nice looking frame indeed! Looks like a pleasure to ride, were it not for the "broken chainstay". DUDE WTF! No pics of the "broken chainstay"? Looks solid to me. I'd bet a lot that they lied about it being in stock just to keep your business.

They understand you, they use Aliexpress translate (powered by Google). That's not the issue.

How many days do you have left to open a dispute? Better keep an eye on that because after that expires they could get away without ever shipping it. If you open a dispute you will get your money back.

They extended purchase protection so I still have 30 days of protection.
They sent a picture of the fracture, it looks to me like paint only. Anyway, I still have enough faith in them to hold off of opening a dispute. They did make the frame after all.

They extended purchase protection so I still have 30 days of protection.
They sent a picture of the fracture, it looks to me like paint only. Anyway, I still have enough faith in them to hold off of opening a dispute. They did make the frame after all.

Well at least their QC department is holding it up. It would be sleazier if they just sent it out as is.

There was a very valid question about shock choice posted earlier that got blown off. Most manufacturers typically apply a specific tune to their bikes based on the suspension design properties. Is there any resource that one can reference that shows these properties for the chinese frames? The pro mance 9007 or similar bikes are very interesting to me but I am somewhat concerned that I would not enjoy the ride from a shock with the stock tune.

I received my frame from Tideace a week ago or so and have started building it. Right off the bat, I was impressed by the frame's structure. Also happy a wide 2.2" tire on a 30mm ID rim has plenty of clearance in the 27.5+ boost frame!

However, there were some issues.

1. Derailleur hanger was broken during shipping. They sent a new one, so now I need to wait 2 weeks again.

2. No bushings included (which is OK), but with the correct ones installed (50mm bottom and 21.8mm top) there is some play in the system. Dropping the bike on the rear wheel results in some rattling. Will have to look into this.

3. Seat angle is NOT as steep as it should be. It should be around 74* with a 100mm fork. I am running a 130mm fork, which means it should be 72-73*. But right now it is pretty much 68*. This is not good for me, as I have long legs! The saddle in the picture is quite a bit lower than it should be for me still.

There was a very valid question about shock choice posted earlier that got blown off. Most manufacturers typically apply a specific tune to their bikes based on the suspension design properties. Is there any resource that one can reference that shows these properties for the chinese frames? The pro mance 9007 or similar bikes are very interesting to me but I am somewhat concerned that I would not enjoy the ride from a shock with the stock tune.

Yeah this is a valid question, but here's my humble opinion FWIW. Every rider is different and has different needs, so no matter how frame-optimized kinematics may be, they are assuming every rider is the same. Ultimately it's how *YOU* want your suspension to feel. I took my setup on dozens of rides on dozens of trails while experimenting with different setups. I enjoyed the process, and ultimately was very satisfied with how my shock was working with the frame.

I ride the Pro mance 9007 and settled in on a shock tune on my Fox Factory DPS 6.5" x 1.5" at around 160 psi, that's the way I like it and it fit my weight, style, and local trails really well. It felt just like my buddy's Spark. No worries there!

2. No bushings included (which is OK), but with the correct ones installed (50mm bottom and 21.8mm top) there is some play in the system. Dropping the bike on the rear wheel results in some rattling. Will have to look into this.

Great looking start to your build! It looks to be a sweet frame and you're definitely solid on the specs.

I had the same issue with some play in the shocks. First off, kudos on getting the right bushing kits (first time around, I'm assuming). Took me 3 tries and $30 of wasted money in Fox bushing kits. I'll blame my naievety, not much excuse from my side.

Anyway, I still had a very small amount of play between the Fox bushing and the pocket bolt provided with the frame. It's like it wasn't a true M5 bolt. One thing I always wanted to try was getting the M5 titanium pocket bolts from Aliexpress (Risk brand), but I sold everything off and am on to another build project. Hope you can solve that play issue, and post up when you do!

Stealth dropper mod on fm036

hi all,

Just an update on my well worn Fm036, which i've now modded with a dropper post.

First step was too feed plumbers tape from head tube through to seat tube exit with aid of a vacuum cleaner. The bottom bracket stays put because the shell is a sealed unit and the tape passes through the hollow juncture of seat tube and downtube just above.

Next, attach cable outer to plumbtape and pull through frame.

I then marked out the position and profile of the pushfit grommet i was going to use to run the internal cable. Next was to drill 3 small pilot holes within the area marked progressively making them bigger with different drill bits until they merged as one.

Smooth out the rough hole to fit your grommet and remove burrs.

Fish out the cable outer and set up your grommet before feeding the wire cable through outer for your dropper set up. Push home grommet for a tight fit.

Grommets are Orange Bicycles internal cable guide spare parts.

I don't feel the frame is compromised as i've done the coin tapping for fracture test before and after a ride and all is well. This is all I have to go on plus I don't envisage this being a stressed area for a small hole.

I have now gone on two 50km rides on my new build and must say I am impressed with the frame's performance. I weigh 88kg (194lbs) with my kit and have really tried to put some stress on the frame - for as far as that's possible on the relatively flat Dutch trails.

I am running the frame with a Fox 34 130mm fork, resulting in this old/ new geo:
Manual measurements seem to correspond quite well with those numbers.

I think the long 14cm headtube and the amount of material there enables the longer fork to work without risk of frame damage. The seller, Derek, said 130mm is the maximum permitted anyway.

Before I talk about other points, let me share some pictures of the build!

I took a risk and ordered the 27.5+ boost frame option to fit my 29" wheels - no problem! I am running 30mm internal rims with Bonty 2.2 XR1/ 2.3 XR3 Team Issue tires. The XR1 has heaps of clearance left, I reckon a 2.4 will fit well with sufficient clearance.

The entire build comes in at around 11.9kg, which I am happy with. I find the suspension design works well for me in combination with the Manitou Mcleod shock with 140psi. Love the feeling of it, still getting used to the out-of-saddle sprinting with a FS bike...

Of course, there are some issues.

Firstly, use the outer cable along the whole frame - I cut it into parts, but the included plastic cable stops are not strong. Shifting gears resulted in the cable pulling through the weak cable stop, thus I had to use the outer cable along the whole inner cable.
This does result in internal cable rattling during riding . I am still thinking of a solution.

However, this is not at all noticeable during riding - the linkage movement does not involve this lateral movement.

Thirdly, I cannot remove the screw through the largest bearing (see image below). I disassembled every part to grease the bearings, but this one I could not get out with any force.

Finally, the 'cup' design under the shock is plain stupid
Any gunk collects there and forms a little pool.

The downtube also doesn't have a hole to let water inside the frame out. You can see the internal cable stops are not at the bottom of the frame, and you can see I used electrical tape to limit the amount of cable inside the frame. But the rattling was still there.

What is the lightest dual suspension 29er for 2019 out there, any ideas?

Well, none of us know what's on the radar for 2019 until these guys decide to go for it. You have to realize it's sometimes just 2-3 weeks between when a team gets together and decides on a project until the marketable prototypes start coming off the molds. If you really want to take a stab at the future, email agents at ICAN, Hongfu, Dengfu, Pro-Mance, TanTan, and XM-Carbon Speed. My guess is they are as clueless as you are. It's all a matter of what they get there hands on.

Right now, it's the Pro-Mance ultralight T800/T1000 M9007. See my long thread in 29er forum for info on that. I've moved on, but that's what's lightest. About 200g more than a Scott Spark RC frameset and similar geo.

Well, none of us know what's on the radar for 2019 until these guys decide to go for it. You have to realize it's sometimes just 2-3 weeks between when a team gets together and decides on a project until the marketable prototypes start coming off the molds. If you really want to take a stab at the future, email agents at ICAN, Hongfu, Dengfu, Pro-Mance, TanTan, and XM-Carbon Speed. My guess is they are as clueless as you are. It's all a matter of what they get there hands on.

Right now, it's the Pro-Mance ultralight T800/T1000 M9007. See my long thread in 29er forum for info on that. I've moved on, but that's what's lightest. About 200g more than a Scott Spark RC frameset and similar geo.

If you don't mind me asking, what was the price of your frame delivered?

Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

Guys, I'm trying to resolve a problem with play on my latest built. I'm already using RWC needle bearings but I can't find a solution.
Please let me know if you have suggestionshttps://youtu.be/OwKBvhs9S34

Do any of the new Spark copies come with a threaded BB instead of the god awful press fit?

No. I told several companies this was the single best point of improvement if they wanted to get more business. I even offered extra if they could do a production run with a threaded BB insert but that didn't help. All it really takes is screwing out a removable fitting in the mold and replacing it with the other standard fitting, per my limited understanding.

That would be $0.50 in labor, a free fitting, and more than one happier customer.

No. I told several companies this was the single best point of improvement if they wanted to get more business. I even offered extra if they could do a production run with a threaded BB insert but that didn't help. All it really takes is screwing out a removable fitting in the mold and replacing it with the other standard fitting, per my limited understanding.

That would be $0.50 in labor, a free fitting, and more than one happier customer.

All the major brands use PF bb's. I don't see anything wrong, you guys should reconsider or maybe you're not using the proper tools when pressing the BB.

All the major brands use PF bb's. I don't see anything wrong, you guys should reconsider or maybe you're not using the proper tools when pressing the BB.

Installing has nothing to do with it. It's not difficult to install. They make zero sense from a practicality standpoint. Why do you use a screw instead of a nail when you are looking for stability? They tried to reinvent the wheel when making PF. Don't get me started on the creaking.

Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

Installing has nothing to do with it. It's not difficult to install. They make zero sense from a practicality standpoint. Why do you use a screw instead of a nail when you are looking for stability? They tried to reinvent the wheel when making PF. Don't get me started on the creaking.

I do use the proper tools, but there certainly are plenty of people out there that don't and therefore complain. The still take 3-4 times longer than threaded BBs to install and uninstall, and it's easier to do the installation wrong.

Guys, I'm trying to resolve a problem with play on my latest built. I'm already using RWC needle bearings but I can't find a solution.
Please let me know if you have suggestionshttps://youtu.be/OwKBvhs9S34

Guys, I'm trying to resolve a problem with play on my latest built. I'm already using RWC needle bearings but I can't find a solution.
Please let me know if you have suggestionshttps://youtu.be/OwKBvhs9S34

It's hard to tell exactly where the slop is. Is it vertical or horizontal?
As I watched the video, I'm seeing a vertical (up and down). Is that what your showing? If so, that would be the bushing between the shock eyelet and the bolt securing it. Or it could be at multiple points such as both eyelets or even multiple pivot points.
I would suggest using some dial calipers and measure the inside diameter of the shock eyelets and then measure the outside diameter of the mounting bolts. If those tolerances are good, then measure every pivot point of the suspension.
Hope that helps.

Has anyone used a Cane Creek Inline shock for their frame? I want one for my Fm06 but i have concerns about tuning it properly. I didnt see it on cane creeks website and i know it can make a ride terrible if not tuned right

It's hard to tell exactly where the slop is. Is it vertical or horizontal?
As I watched the video, I'm seeing a vertical (up and down). Is that what your showing? If so, that would be the bushing between the shock eyelet and the bolt securing it. Or it could be at multiple points such as both eyelets or even multiple pivot points.
I would suggest using some dial calipers and measure the inside diameter of the shock eyelets and then measure the outside diameter of the mounting bolts. If those tolerances are good, then measure every pivot point of the suspension.
Hope that helps.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Schulze

The RWC bearings are moving inside the rocker. You need a shim or buy bearings with a larger diameter.

I just made a new video showing the play in between the bearing internal and the suspension bolt.https://youtu.be/09sZjBuueRU
I tried already using the - , + and ++ bearing inner part but there is still play.

I just made a new video showing the play in between the bearing internal and the suspension bolt.https://youtu.be/09sZjBuueRU
I tried already using the - , + and ++ bearing inner part but there is still play.

Ah yeah. There is a lot of slop there. Those tolerances need to get tighter if you can. Or just live with it? I couldn't.
Do you have a local bolt supplier? Or you may have to machine a new bushing for your shock. I've had it done before on my first DH bike.

One complaint I have had is the lack of frame cable stops on the open market. If there was a selection, you could replace those grommets with cable housing stops and stop the rattling.

For one hardtail frame that I modified for side swing fd, I had to order cable stops from Ukraine! They worked well though.

Glad to help.
In the meantime, I have absolutely zero rattling issues. I bought several air conditioning filters (pieces of open foam essentially), and forced them down the downtube. Added 30g and it works perfectly!

I have now gone on two 50km rides on my new build and must say I am impressed with the frame's performance. I weigh 88kg (194lbs) with my kit and have really tried to put some stress on the frame - for as far as that's possible on the relatively flat Dutch trails.

I am running the frame with a Fox 34 130mm fork, resulting in this old/ new geo:
Manual measurements seem to correspond quite well with those numbers.

I think the long 14cm headtube and the amount of material there enables the longer fork to work without risk of frame damage. The seller, Derek, said 130mm is the maximum permitted anyway.

Before I talk about other points, let me share some pictures of the build!

I took a risk and ordered the 27.5+ boost frame option to fit my 29" wheels - no problem! I am running 30mm internal rims with Bonty 2.2 XR1/ 2.3 XR3 Team Issue tires. The XR1 has heaps of clearance left, I reckon a 2.4 will fit well with sufficient clearance.

The entire build comes in at around 11.9kg, which I am happy with. I find the suspension design works well for me in combination with the Manitou Mcleod shock with 140psi. Love the feeling of it, still getting used to the out-of-saddle sprinting with a FS bike...

Of course, there are some issues.

Firstly, use the outer cable along the whole frame - I cut it into parts, but the included plastic cable stops are not strong. Shifting gears resulted in the cable pulling through the weak cable stop, thus I had to use the outer cable along the whole inner cable.
This does result in internal cable rattling during riding . I am still thinking of a solution.

However, this is not at all noticeable during riding - the linkage movement does not involve this lateral movement.

Thirdly, I cannot remove the screw through the largest bearing (see image below). I disassembled every part to grease the bearings, but this one I could not get out with any force.

Finally, the 'cup' design under the shock is plain stupid
Any gunk collects there and forms a little pool.

The downtube also doesn't have a hole to let water inside the frame out. You can see the internal cable stops are not at the bottom of the frame, and you can see I used electrical tape to limit the amount of cable inside the frame. But the rattling was still there.

Sorry about the lengthy post, I wanted to share as much information as possible with all of you. Hope it is useful!

In response to my own post - I have not been able to resolve the play in the linkage. I thought the main screw may be too short, so added a spacer between the screw and the rocker, to no avail. I then made a ring from an old debit card and squished it between the frame and the rocker, again to no avail. Everything is tight and sadly I do notice the play during quick, bumpy bits.
I think visiting a LBS is the best option.