Did some trouble shooting on the engine and found out the intake was leaking all the way around so I pulled that all apart cleaned it and ready to reinstall. Trouble shot my transfer case leak sure enough I have to drop it out and reseal the adapter. Put some new trim molding on my right rear body panel. Thats enough for me this weekend. Alex

Pulled my gauge cluster and replaced the light switch, that fixed my dash light dimmer and my courtesy lights. Also fixed my tach, the needle would bind up at 1800 rpm, the needle sits on a spring all I had to do was slighty pull it out which now allows the needle to fully rotate. Also ran the wiring for the door pins that control the courtesy lights, now need to make a jumper to wire them in. Attempted to install my new passenger side inside fender after I had painted it, but decided to wait until I have some help so I don't fubar the paint.

Did some trouble shooting on the engine and found out the intake was leaking all the way around so I pulled that all apart cleaned it and ready to reinstall. Trouble shot my transfer case leak sure enough I have to drop it out and reseal the adapter. Put some new trim molding on my right rear body panel. Thats enough for me this weekend. Alex

Did a light refurbish on a used tach cluster I picked up last year. Finally installed it, but the temp gauge pegged to the top when I got the power on. Any ideas on that one? Off course the battery was too dead to fire it up, so still not sure if the tach even works. Throw the battery on the charger and try again tomorrow.

Wish I could help - having a real struggle right now with my fuel gauge which is off by 1/4 turn or so clockwise. I need to swap in the original cluster which was working well. Lights look good - I upgraded to brighter ones in my tach cluster, #168 IIRC

Bummer. Thought I had seen a thread somewhere on the Temp gauge. Will have to see if I can find it. I had a mixture of 168's and 194's in the three clusters I had in pieces. Wasn't sure which were the brighter ones, I mostly just wanted them to work. I think most were the 194's.
Oh, and got my K/5 emblems back one. Only had one when I bought it. Found another on Ebay and touched them up. Much better having matching emblems.

I sprayed brake cleaner around the intake while the engine is running and listen for rpm increase. Heater cores are a PITA I am sure you have study up on that one. I haven't had to trouble shoot a fuel guage yet.

Swaped my cluster for a new bezel, replaced the oil pressure guage (good fix) to no pressure at all. Replaced my dash pad and discovered I need all new ac hose's, another controler, and I gotta do a heater core.

Swaped my cluster for a new bezel, replaced the oil pressure guage (good fix) to no pressure at all. Replaced my dash pad and discovered I need all new ac hose's, another controler, and I gotta do a heater core.

I'm under the dash doing nearly the same. If you have any tips for digging out the heater core let me know. I'm still working through an issue with my fuel gauge and then on to the heater core. I got a made in Mexico bronze/brass core from Rockauto as I couldn't locate a new US example - will add some remaining tower clamps and a new heater control valve at the same time.

I'm under the dash doing nearly the same. If you have any tips for digging out the heater core let me know. I'm still working through an issue with my fuel gauge and then on to the heater core. I got a made in Mexico bronze/brass core from Rockauto as I couldn't locate a new US example - will add some remaining tower clamps and a new heater control valve at the same time.

Pete one thing for sure you have to drop the inner wheel well down to gain access to the lower bolts on the heater core housing. While you have all of that apart on the inside of the heater core housing replace all the seals on the box.

Pete one thing for sure you have to drop the inner wheel well down to gain access to the lower bolts on the heater core housing. While you have all of that apart on the inside of the heater core housing replace all the seals on the box.

Great idea thanks. My heater doesn't blow hot air - must be something a miss in the duct work. The heater valve does shunt hot coolant to the core. Need to trouble shoot that after my cluster issue is resolved.