If you're not in a rush - I'd have the injector out and professionally serviced. I just did mine - it's about $22 US

The shop replaced the o-rings, replaced the stock plastic screen which was noted as disintegrated with a stainless steel, tested it before and after, providing a report and of course cleaned it. It looked like it had just rolled out of the factory.

It's pretty easy to remove the injector - no need for a shop to do that

Regarding fuel pressure - the tech manual has the fuel pressure and flow rate in it as well as the test procedure. A shop should have the equipment to do the testing - but you should ask them if they have it as not all might.

These are very hard to start if the Idel is to low , they have to be set perfect ,
to Hi and it will back fire and blow the throttle body off , again if you use throttle when starting you can blow the throttle body off.

These are very hard to start if the Idel is to low , they have to be set perfect ,
to Hi and it will back fire and blow the throttle body off , again if you use throttle when starting you can blow the throttle body off.

Its not a big deal just push the TB back on , setting the idel is like a FCR carb
there is a Alu cap on the adjuster screw take it off loosen the lock nut and adjust, Its a little fiddley . the 2012's have had issues with this blow the TB off .

These are very hard to start if the Idel is to low , they have to be set perfect ,
to Hi and it will back fire and blow the throttle body off , again if you use throttle when starting you can blow the throttle body off.

Why would the fact that the ignition is left on allow it to start easy if the settings are out , if u read my first post only battles to start if u turn ignition off ?

I went flipped switches on mine last night. The fuel pump primes when the kill switch is set to 'run' and the bike is powered on. So the pump will prime if it's already in the run position and your turn the key, or the switch is off, the key is turned and then the switch set to 'run'.

So the pump should run through the prime cycle regardless of the order of operation you do the switches in to get it to a state where the bike will run

__________________
Throttle's on the right, so are the brakes. Good luck.

Why would the fact that the ignition is left on allow it to start easy if the settings are out , if u read my first post only battles to start if u turn ignition off ?

It is obvious that most of the people who have made guesses in this thread don't
understand fuel injection systems. Of course lack of knowledge doesn't prevent
people on the internet from pretending to know something, but it does impede the
search for the solution if you follow the false trails they create when they make their
clueless suggestions. ( throttle body boot disconnected ? WRONG. )

I've worked with mechanical and electronic fuel injection systems for over 20
years. Based on my hands-on experience, here is MY guess :

I believe your fuel injector is leaking ( when it should not be emitting fuel ) and this
is the source of your hard-start problem as you have described it. When you switch on
the ignition switch, the pump cycles and the fuel injector then leaks fuel and creates an
over-rich fuel mixture which when the bike is warmed up makes starting difficult.
In layman's terms, the engine is being "flooded" with fuel.

The simple test to determine whether this is the case is to remove the injector
from the throttle body and leave it connected to the bike wiring harness and fuel
lines, and place the injector in a clear fuel resistant container.

*****You should have a fire extinguisher handy during this procedure, and ideally
it would be best to do it outdoors rather than inside a building ********

Then, cycle the ignition switch and when the fuel pump cycles, you should watch the fuel
injector closely and determine whether fuel leaks from the injector. Fuel is NOT supposed to
emerge from the injector unless the engine is being started or the engine is running.

If you DO see fuel come from the injector when you switch the ignition key on, you
need to either clean or replace the injector such that when the test above is repeated using
the cleaned or new injector, fuel no longer leaks when the ignition switch is
turned on. It is difficult to diagnose a problem remotely but nonetheless I am 99%
sure that your problem is caused by a leaking injector.

Please be a responsible internet citizen and report back in this thread when
you solve the problem, so that others who have a similar hard-start condition
can benefit from your experience.

Good luck !

And by the way, if your shop couldn't figure this out, you need to find a different shop.
This is basic stuff, not rocket science, and a mechanic who could not immediately
know what to check after hearing your description of the symptoms is quite simply
incompetent. Of course there are a lot of pretenders out there.

[QUOTE=It'sNotTheBike;20457293]It is obvious that most of the people who have made guesses in this thread don't
understand fuel injection systems. Of course lack of knowledge doesn't prevent
people on the internet from pretending to know something, but it does impede the
search for the solution if you follow the false trails they create when they make their
clueless suggestions. ( throttle body boot disconnected ? WRONG. )

I've worked with mechanical and electronic fuel injection systems for over 20
years. Based on my hands-on experience, here is MY guess :

I believe your fuel injector is leaking ( when it should not be emitting fuel ) and this
is the source of your hard-start problem as you have described it. When you switch on
the ignition switch, the pump cycles and the fuel injector then leaks fuel and creates an
over-rich fuel mixture which when the bike is warmed up makes starting difficult.
In layman's terms, the engine is being "flooded" with fuel.

The simple test to determine whether this is the case is to remove the injector
from the throttle body and leave it connected to the bike wiring harness and fuel
lines, and place the injector in a clear fuel resistant container.

*****You should have a fire extinguisher handy during this procedure, and ideally
it would be best to do it outdoors rather than inside a building ********

Then, cycle the ignition switch and when the fuel pump cycles, you should watch the fuel
injector closely and determine whether fuel leaks from the injector. Fuel is NOT supposed to
emerge from the injector unless the engine is being started or the engine is running.

If you DO see fuel come from the injector when you switch the ignition key on, you
need to either clean or replace the injector such that when the test above is repeated using
the cleaned or new injector, fuel no longer leaks when the ignition switch is
turned on. It is difficult to diagnose a problem remotely but nonetheless I am 99%
sure that your problem is caused by a leaking injector.

Please be a responsible internet citizen and report back in this thread when
you solve the problem, so that others who have a similar hard-start condition
can benefit from your experience.

Good luck !

And by the way, if your shop couldn't figure this out, you need to find a different shop.
This is basic stuff, not rocket science, and a mechanic who could not immediately
know what to check after hearing your description of the symptoms is quite simply
incompetent. Of course there are a lot of pretenders out there.

.[/QUOTE Thank you seems to be a solution, also when I twist the throttle fast it does not rev up quickly , my friend twists his throttle and his bike sound very "snappy" when it revs, BTW new spark plug and cap .