Is Salmon Roe the New Retin A?

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For anyone who has been paying the slightest attention to the inflammation theory of aging, Sapelo’s newest serum, Spring Tide, does not seem fishy at all. “In developing this product, we were looking for something that could give you the same anti-aging benefits as retinol, but without the irritation,” says Stephanie Duttenhaver, co-creator of the brand. The active ingredient— a Norwegian salmon roe extract that’s been proven in independent studies to boost collagen by 350% and elastin by 120%—is not exactly new (Restorasea has been using a slightly different patented complex derived from Norwegian salmon since 2012) but it’s gaining in popularity as more and more people seek gentler anti-aging solutions. According to recent studies, over 40% of women currently believe they have sensitive skin—a phenomenon many researchers attribute to overzealous use of aggressive cleansing and treatment products.

So how exactly does salmon roe work? The eggs are rich in proteins, vitamins and minerals, as well as free amino acids and skin-softening lipids. It’s theorized these ingredients work synergistically to reduce inflammation and prevent the oxidative damage that we all encounter everyday as a normal part of the aging process.

The Proof (because I’m a science nerd and I don’t want you to waste your money)

In a double-blinded, randomized clinical trial involving 66 women that was published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, the efficacy of the salmon egg extract was evaluated at concentrations of 1% and 5% as compared to a placebo. The results? “Skin treated with the salmon egg extract significantly improved in all parameters, including wrinkles, pigmentation, redness, brightness.”

The Buy

Sapelo Spring Tide Serum ($195), which contains 5% salmon rose extract, will be available in May on sapeloskincare.com

Amy Synnott is the founder of The Beautiful Edit. A graduate of the Columbia Graduate School of Journalism, Amy spent most of her career at InStyle magazine, where she worked as a the Beauty Director from 2000-2013 and the Executive Editor from 2013-2016. Originally from Boston, Amy currently lives in NYC with her husband, two children, and Labrador, Lucy.