The Nearshore Dynamics work unit is developing the physics-based tools required to address a wide range of coastal engineering needs related to the design of adequate protection along sandy coasts.

Model Simulation of Wave Tank Beach Erosion Study

Modeling of sediment movement and associated morphological changes has not undergone significant advancement, in part due to the complexities involved and our incomplete understanding of surf zone sediment processes. New physics-based tools are needed with capabilities to predict profile and shoreline change without the need for local data calibration. MORPHOS nearshore technologies under development include the CHL 2D (horizontal) steady-state nearSHORE morphology response model (C2SHORE). This model solves the 2D (horizontal) shallow-water equations and includes such features as dune erosion and overtopping. It is forced at the boundaries by the MORPHOS circulation and wave models under development. C2SHORE development has also produced a profile response model, CSHORE. The nearshore models are undergoing testing with both laboratory and field data. Additional research is leading towards a phase resolving approach for high-fidelity morphological applications, which will be incorporated into the C2SHORE framework. It is anticipated that the resulting suite of tools will fulfill a wide range of coastal engineering needs related to the design of adequate protection along sandy coasts. Future development will include cohesive sediment transport.