So it blew with a 4 ohm load. You must have really had it cranked up for awhile.

Did you check the fuse yourself or just take it back in due to warranty concerns?

Amp was on max (+ 3db) when she blew. I think I was actually boosting the signal from the spdif on the computer also. I had it there for about 30 min. And before the amp blew it was vibrating the lights in the ceiling fan sooo much that one the the light bulbs popped. I had to turn the fan on so that the centrifugal force overcame the vibration, otherwise it woulda been lights out!

It did not blow the fuse strangely enough. It actually fried the amp. I was on the phone with technical support for 30 minutes until the told me to bring it in.

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One day your life may flash before your eyes,try to make it worth watching

Regarding the resistance measurements. You can't just measure it with a multimeter and get an accurate picture. Impedance changes with frequency response. Take a look at an impedance curve. like this one.

You'll see that the impedance is highest at the resonance frequency. This is because of electro-magnetic properties of the transducer. As the voice coil moves within the magnet assembly, it produces a voltage in the voice coil, this can be thought of as some "backpressure" on the system, that's why the impedance is higher.

Selecting the "nominal impedance" that a company puts on it's spec sheet is a bit of an artform. Some will select the lowest value, others kind of an average, after throwing out the extremes.

Anyway, in answer to your original question, the binding posts are split like that (1->woofers, 1->midranges and tweeters) for biamping and biwiring, two dubious audio practices.

In a previous post you said the binding posts are 2 mid and 2 tweeters on 1 set of posts and the 2 woofers on the other. This made sense to me based on the Ohm reading I got. If it really is 1,1,1 shouldn't the reading be the same or at least very similar?

Hope I didn't misread something between the 2 posts.

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One day your life may flash before your eyes,try to make it worth watching

No, no, I meant the same thing with this post--as in one set of posts is to the woofers, one set of posts is to the mids and tweets.

Seriously, dude? You need outboard amps. You can't expect a receiver to survive on max volume pushing 2 sets of 4 ohm loads. I suggest you look into some seriously high power units, maybe the Axiom 1400-8, maybe something at around 300WPC... It would probably be best with the Axiom amp if you used it only for the M80s. That would give you ~350WPC. Or maybe I'm just talking overkill and you could use the 1400 with all the speakers.

No, no, I meant the same thing with this post--as in one set of posts is to the woofers, one set of posts is to the mids and tweets.

Seriously, dude? You need outboard amps. You can't expect a receiver to survive on max volume pushing 2 sets of 4 ohm loads. I suggest you look into some seriously high power units, maybe the Axiom 1400-8, maybe something at around 300WPC... It would probably be best with the Axiom amp if you used it only for the M80s. That would give you ~350WPC. Or maybe I'm just talking overkill and you could use the 1400 with all the speakers.

Ken,Do you have or ever tried this amp? I would be interested in your opinion.

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One day your life may flash before your eyes,try to make it worth watching

I have to agree with Ken, it is time for some serious power. I have yet to run my 3808 for any length of time, a song or two, above -10 and this is really loud(~95-100db depending on the cd, IIRC) in my room. Your room size and what you are trying to achieve I feel are beyond the Denon's capabilities.