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Modern Maya Cuisine: A Culinary Road Trip

We’re obsessed with Maya cuisine, which retains influences of the Spanish, Dutch, and Caribbean, resulting in a natural fusion of vibrant flavours.

11 January 2017

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This year, Quintana Roo and Yucatán have captured our imagination. And it’s easy to see why this location is a perennial favourite with travellers.

First, it’s an area of stunning natural beauty, its long coastline with white sand beaches giving way to an interior filled with jungles, caves, lagoons and charming towns.

Second, you’ll find a wide range of holidays here. Couples looking for romance and sophistication will find it in spades, and the many cultural and historical sites nestled throughout the countryside will satisfy those looking for a more active holiday. It’s also one of the safest areas in Mexico, making it ideal for a family holiday or group trip.

Third, we’re becoming obsessed with Maya cuisine. Given the geography of the Yucatán peninsula, the Maya were able to defend and preserve their way of life for longer than other native tribes in Mexico. This was a distinct benefit for the region’s cuisine, which retains influences of the Spanish conquistadors (Seville oranges and pork), Dutch trading partners via the Caribbean (Edam cheese and Caribbean spices) and the local Maya ingredients (chilies, squash, corn, chocolate, venison and turkey). The result is a natural fusion of flavours that is exciting, vibrant and layered with complexity.

Finding the authentic Maya experience

So, how best to find an authentic, modern Maya experience and cuisine? In our opinion, a road trip!

Our preferred route would be to fly into Cancún and drive along Highway 307 to Playa del Carmen for a few nights, then on to Tulum, taking in the beautiful views of the coast. After a few days there, turn north on Highway 109 toward Valladolid, then west onto Highway 180D to Mérida.

Along the way, you’ll want to stop at key Maya ruins as well as the cenotes, limestone caves filled with fresh water that can be found throughout the Quintana Roo and Yucatán.

This extensive underground network of caves (there are an estimated 6,000 of them) served as ceremonial locations for the Maya, who believed that caves were the doorway between the world of the living and the world of the dead. And they are places still filled with wonder today. With public access to many of the cenotes, you’ll want to break out the snorkeling gear and dive into the clear waters, marveling at the animal and plant life illuminated by shafts of sunlight from above.

Playa del Carmen: a pocket of serenity

Approximately 50 kilometres south of Cancún International Airport on Highway 307 – the road unfurling before you, unhurried and straightforward – lies Le Rêve Hotel & Spa, a pocket of serenity on the Riviera Maya, just outside Playa del Carmen.

Lush palm trees and local flora and fauna abound, and the beach is mere steps away. Hammocks and sun-chairs are dotted throughout the property, inviting you to settle in, relax and let the warm breeze dance across your skin. The Merlot Restaurant & Bar’s menu changes daily and excels at blending local and international flavours, paired with the perfect wine from their extensive wine cellar. For breakfast we can recommend the Omellete Le Rêve, for lunch the Tortilla Soup and Lemon-Ginger Mahi Mahi, for dinner the Huitacoche Rissoto and the pork ribs with tamarin sauce.

This is the ideal base to explore El Rey, a Maya ruin that is easily accessible for visitors and is a popular spot with iguanas more than happy to pose for a picture with you. El Rey is unique among the ruins, allowing visitors to climb on and interact with the outlines of the plazas, buildings and long pathway through the site.

It is in this region that you will find the Cenote Route (Ruta de Los Cenotes), a road just south of Puerto Morelos that leads to Leona Vicario. From high octane thrills like zip lining at Cenote Las Mojarras and Cenote Boca del Puma to the more leisurely pursuits like snorkeling at Cenote Siete Bocas and Cenote Verde Lucero, there is something for everyone and shouldn’t be missed.

Tulum: white, blue, green

From Playa del Carmen, carry on Highway 307 for another hour, following the gently curving coastline until you reach Tulum.

We love Tulum for its powdery white sand, the Caribbean Sea’s range of shades from turquoise green to midnight blue, and the deep, rich green of palm trees that skirt the shoreline. The vibrant downtown is full of delightful shops and restaurants, and it is here that René Redzepi is hosting his pop-up.

We recommend Coral Tulum or Ana y Jose Charming Hotel & Spa for your stay in Tulum. Thatched palapas fringed by palm trees and swathes of pure white sand set the right tone for a relaxed and easy-going holiday. Be sure to book into one of the beachfront rooms and wake with the sounds of the waves whispering in your ears.

Modern Maya cuisine at Coral Tulum Hotel Boutique, Tulum, Mexico

Dive straight into the flavours of Maya cuisine with a breakfast of egg-filled crepes with Chaya sauce; Chaya being similar to spinach and rich with nutrients. Lunch on delicious Caribbean ceviche, bursting with lively acidity and a kick of spice from the regional Xcatic chile. And for dinner sample the best of the sea with wood-oven baked grouper cooked in sea salt or a freshly prepared Caribbean lobster.

Relaxed dining at Ana y Jose Charming Hotel & Spa, Tulum, Mexico

The Tulum ruins, on the beach north of both hotels, show visitors what life was like in a busy seaport that dealt primarily in jade and turquoise. Surrounded by a wall three to five metres high, the centre of this coastal town features a castle, a Temple of the Frescoes and a path leading down to a private beach. It’s a must-see before moving on to Highway 109 and the Maya sites that await to the north.

Explore the past along Highway 109

Cobá, believed to be one of the largest Maya ruins in the Yucatán, is located 47 kilometres north of Tulum. Situated between Laguna Cobá and Laguna Macanxoc, this ancient city is still largely covered with jungle, seemingly unwilling to part with the secrets of its past. There are several sites to explore, connected to the central pyramid by 16 ceremonial white roads. Be sure to leave plenty of time to explore.

Continuing north on Highway 109, you’ll pass from Quintana Roo into Yucatán. Chichén Itzá, is 111 kilometres northwest of Cobá, after the turning onto Highway 180D. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the new 7 wonders of the world, Chichén Itzá can’t help but impress with the El Castillo pyramid, the Observatory, the Temple of Warriors and the 22-metre deep Sacred Cenote among many other features.

Just outside Chichén Itzá is Cenote Ik Kil – an open-sky cave with a carved stairway and visually stunning vines reaching down from the top.

A view of the Cenote Ik Kil outside Chichén Itzá, Mexico

Mérida: capital of culture (and cuisine!)

Continue on Highway 180D for 119 kilometres to reach Mérida, the literal and cultural capital of Yucatán. It has also been named as the American Capital of Culture for 2017, the second time it’s held this honour. Nicknamed the ‘white city’ for its predominately limestone buildings, there are also incredible pops of colour throughout with plentiful arches and columns providing a distinctly 19th-century colonial feel.

Our preferred hotels in Mérida are the Casa Azul, just off one of the smartest avenues in town, or Hacienda Xcanatún, a reimagined 18-century Sisal plantation just north of the capital.

If you stay at Casa Azul, be sure to seek out a spot in the peaceful inner courtyard. The gentle, soothing trickle of the fountain will encourage true relaxation, and you’ll be enchanted with bedrooms showcasing original handmade floor tiles.

The peaceful courtyard at Casa Azul, Mérida, Mexico

Casa Azul’s restaurant features unique Yucatán dishes, like Queso Relleno, one of the region’s specialties. Originally a dish eaten by servants, after the rich were finished with the centre of the Edam cheese, the rind was scraped clean and then stuffed with ground pork, rolled in a banana leaf and steamed. Served with a thick broth, it’s absolute comfort food, Maya-style.

It’s all fresh breeze and birdsong at Hacienda Xcanatún. You’re favourite spot is likely to be on the main terrace, overlooking the manicured gardens, large lily pond and verdant forest beyond. Keep an eye out for the tame squirrels and breathe in the faint, sweet smell of jasmine tobacco planted at the entrance of the Chapel.

The Main House Terrace at Hacienda Xcanatún, Mérida, Mexico

One of Hacienda Xcanatún’s classic restaurant dishes is the Xtabentún-glazed duck breast with plantain croquettes. Pairing old-school French technique with local, seasonal products, this dish is a local take on the original Duck à l’Orange. Substituting local Yucatecan sour orange and the liqueur Xtabentún to make the gastrique, instead of orange juice, wine and vinegar, and adding plantains gives it even more of a local flare.

Three other local restaurants putting Maya cuisine on the map and winning accolades are K’u’uk and Nectar at the high end and La Chaya Maya at the mid-range.

And for something sweet, be sure to find time to visit Dulceria y Sorbeteria Colon, founded in 1907 by Vicente Rodriguez Pelaez. This charming shop features sorbets and ice creams that have been refined for over 100 years. Our Local Expert in Mexico swears by the Guanabana sorbet, one of the exotic fruits of the region that manages to combine both the taste of sweet strawberries with the sour burst of a grapefruit.

Have you been to Quintana Roo and Yucatán? We’d love to hear your favourite memories and food recommendations in the comments below! And be sure to tag us @cnjohansens when you stay at one of our recommended hotels.

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