Welcome to Mauritania

Arab and African influences mesh and collide in the
north-western African country of Mauritania. Northern Moors are the
majority while Tukulor Africans mostly populate the southern
regions. The tug of war between power centres results in unstable
politics including a recent coup unseating the country's first
freely elected leader. Yet the Islamic nation has some unusually
western friendly laws including religious freedom and female
representation in government. It also one of few Islamic countries
to have diplomatic ties with Israel.

The coup is yet another reason travellers are uncertain about
the region. A further deterrent was the murder of four French
tourists in 2007 which was attributed to terrorism. However,
tourists who are undeterred are privilege to the rare beauty of the
country's dramatic open landscapes.

The Sahara scenery in the north shifts slowly as sand dunes move
across the desert. The north's nomadic people follow suit
traversing the dunes. The central land is covered by two vast
plateaus only broken by occasional cliffs. Flat plains and desert
dunes stretch uninterrupted across most of the west. These are some
of the least populated regions in West Africa. Farther to the
south, scenery begets more permanent landscape and residents, as
the southern Senegal River allows for permanent agriculture.

Unspoilt coastline is the most alluring aspect for most
visitors. Mauritania's 468 miles (754km) of seashore is
characterised by sandy beaches with little development.

Tourists dry up in summer months when the heat can become
unbearable. Throughout the rest of the year travellers can arrive
over the sand dunes from Morocco or across the river from Senegal.
Larger cities such as Chinguetti, Nouakchott, Nouadhibou and Atar
have a small tourist infrastructure with small guesthouses and
hotels. Various forms of four wheeled transport from old cars to
sturdier jeeps can get travellers about. There is also a main train
line.

Yet little tourist infrastructure means most travel within the
country is for the adventurous. Visitors are recommended to travel
with guides or in convoys if far out of city centres.

Possibly a boon to future western tourists is the reversal of
female beauty: in Mauritania fat women are considered the height of
attractiveness.

Customs

Since Mauritania is an Islamic state, governed by Islamic law,
visitors should at all times be respectful of the social mores that
have been entrenched in the country by the teachings of the Koran.
Visitors are encouraged particularly to be observant during the
month of Ramadan, when eating, smoking or drinking in public is
severely frowned upon. Conservative dress (covering the arms and
legs) and reserved public behaviour are the norms, especially for
women. Be sure to remove your shoes before entering people's homes
and mosques. Note that Mauritania is a dry country, and although
there are restaurants that will sell alcohol to foreigners,
drinking with locals is strictly prohibited. Note also that it is
considered taboo for women to lie on their backs, and for men to
lie on their stomachs, in public places. Public displays of
affection are totally out of the question: in Mauritania, not even
married couples are allowed to hold hands in public. It is also
worth bearing in mind that Mauritanians are extremely direct
communicators, and may eschew normal pleasantries such as "Please"
and "Thank-you." Finally, it is considered extremely rude to ignore
people who greet you in public places.

Duty Free

Those travelling to Mauritania over the age of 18 may import the
following goods duty-free: 200 cigarettes/25 cigars/450g of
tobacco, 50ml of perfume and 250ml eau de toilette. Alcohol is
prohibited, and firearms require an import and gun license prior to
arrival.

Passport Visa

All foreign passengers to Mauritania must hold return/onward
tickets, and the necessary travel documentation for their next
destination. Note that a yellow fever vaccination certificate is
required, if arriving within six days of leaving or transiting
through an infected area, OR if staying in Mauritania for longer
than two weeks. NOTE: It is highly recommended that your passport
has at least six months validity remaining after your intended date
of departure from your travel destination. Immigration officials
often apply different rules to those stated by travel agents and
official sources.

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