Over the bridge

Author: George Epaminondas
Photography: Nikki Sargent-Fenix

A flock of revellers is buzzing outside a hot spot in New York
on a Saturday afternoon. The women are clad in rompers and leather
sandals, while the men wear button-down shirts, jeans and suede
chukkas. Every few moments, stylish couples are whisked up to the
sixth-floor bar of the Wythe Hotel, as though they're in a hipster
adaptation of Noah's ark. Up here, the hotel's vast terrace offers
jaw-dropping vistas of the skyline, and the animated throng have
come to watch the sun set, down a few tequila-laced cocktails and
make some Facebook friends. It's the sort of convivial scene that
unfolds almost every night of the week in New York, except that the
fashionable new eyrie in question is not located in Manhattan -
it's in Brooklyn. The borough, just across the East River, is now a
vibrant metropolis in its own right. It's Brooklyn's moment in the
sun.

Over the years Manhattan's inflated real estate prices have
forced the young, the creative and those with children to flee to
Brooklyn, only to discover that they actually relish their new
home. With ample space and a relaxed energy, the borough has a
singular style that is looser and more experimental than its
big-city counterpart. Brooklyn is where innovators are setting
trends in food, fashion, music, art, literature and design.

Consider the Wythe Hotel in the scenester-filled neighbourhood
of Williamsburg. The 72-room inn opened earlier this year in a
former textile factory and elevates the borough's industrial
aesthetic to dazzling new heights, with meticulously preserved
original pine beams, arched windows and cast-iron columns. The
loft-like rooms are super comfortable, and the restaurant, Reynard,
is top notch.

With Manhattan evolving into a glitzy mall, Brooklyn seems like
a more authentic version of New York: warehouses reborn as adult
playgrounds, graffiti-painted street corners, and a melting pot of
2.5 million residents. In addition to having a resolute devotion to
recycling, Brooklyn is dedicated to artisanal, organic and
sustainably sourced food. You name it - chocolate, sausage,
Bourbon, mayonnaise - it's made in Brooklyn in small, delicious
batches. Many of the borough's leading restaurants share a
scruffy-chic and farm-to-table sensibility that now echoes all
around the globe.

When it comes to personal style, tattoos, spectacles and plaid
abound. And if there is a TV show that has underscored the cultural
impact of the borough, it's Girls, which does for Brooklyn
what Sex and the City did for Manhattan. It's worth
booking your trip to Brooklyn before the Girls-themed tour
buses arrive.

While the enormous borough stretches from Greenpoint in the
north all the way to the beach resort town of Coney Island in the
south, the following pages focus on the neighbourhoods with the
most activity. If you're staying in Manhattan, almost everywhere
listed here is accessible via subway, taxi or water taxi to the
Fulton Ferry Landing. If you're lodging in Brooklyn, cabs are the
ideal way to scoot around - most trips are less than $10 - or you
could rent your own Zipcar. Don't be afraid to go off the map. One
night, while en route to a bar in Bushwick, we found ourselves at
an impromptu gig on the rooftop of an apartment building. As the
merry band played their weird hybrid of bluegrass and burlesque,
and a bearded percussionist banged on a garbage can, I thought to
myself, "Welcome to Brooklyn".

WILLIAMSBURG The locus of indie rock, skinny jeans, edgy art,
compelling food and sleek bars. Stop by the Williamsburg
waterfront: on Saturdays it's Smorgasburg, a food market, while on
Sundays it's the Williamsburg branch of the Brooklyn
Flea.

Walden This bucolic restaurant was named after the Henry David
Thoreau classic about going back to nature, and serves seasonal
dishes such as braised pork shoulder with watermelon and poblano
chilli in an inviting space. 502 Lorimer St, +1 347 227 7133

The Meatball
Shop Choose from classic beef, spicy pork, chicken, vegetable, or a
daily special, with a choice of sauce. Order them naked, on a
baguette or smashed on a brioche. 170 Bedford Ave, +1 718 551
0520

Allswell Chef Nate Smith, formerly of The Spotted Pig, has created a
gastropub with a carnivorous bent. The menu changes daily and might
include braised rabbit with fennel and carrots, and spaghetti with
pork jowl, asparagus and wild mushrooms. 124 Bedford Ave, +1 347
799 2743

DrinkHotel Delmano Of all the faux speakeasies in Brooklyn, this may be the most
beguiling, with its curved marble bar, distressed walls and
multiple rooms for quaffing libations such as the
whiskey-and-eggwhite Rattlesnake. 82 Berry St, +1 718 387
1945

Maison
Premiere An oyster house, cocktail den and 19th-century-inspired New
Orleans saloon. Order a towering platter of shellfish and oysters
and taste the absinthe from their fountain. 298 Bedford Ave, +1 347
335 0446

Dram Some bars have rotating DJs but Dram changes up its
mixologists every night. The barkeeps hail from some of the best
drinking holes in the city and the ever-evolving cocktail menu is
always stellar. 177 South Fourth St, +1 718 486 3726

Nitehawk
Cinema Yes, they screen art-house movies but they also have a decent
bar on the ground floor serving cocktails inspired by cinema. To
wit: The Driver is a homage to Ryan Gosling with Gosling's Black
Seal Rum and Gosling's Ginger Beer. 136 Metropolitan Ave, +1 718
384 3980

Blue Bottle
Coffee A roaster, coffee bar and mad laboratory in one - witness the
large Japanese glass brewing systems that resemble a science
experiment. Try the New Orleans-style iced coffee, or the drip
coffee made one cup at a time. 160 Berry St, +1 718 387 4160

Mc & Co A high-end homewares store that brings together local and
international designers, all of whom subscribe to a clean, graphic
and punchy sensibility. 57 North Sixth St, +1 718 388 3551

Pilgrim Surf + Supply You read that correctly. A surf shop in Williamsburg.
Stock up on bikinis, boardies, and even a board for hitting the
waves in nearby Rockaway Beach. 68 North Third St, +1 718 218
7456

GREENPOINT The northernmost tip of Brooklyn is a traditional Polish
enclave with a spillover of hipsters from Williamsburg. The area is
served by the G train (the only subway line that doesn't enter
Manhattan), which has slowed its development, but there are big
changes afoot.

EatFive
Leaves When Heath Ledger died, he left behind plans for a restaurant,
which his estate helped realise. The result, Five Leaves, has a
cult following - and frequent queues - for its reliable food.
18 Bedford Ave, +1 718 383 5345

The
Diamond A well-known beer-focused bar where you can play a few rounds
of shuffleboard and rubber-ring quoits as you enjoy a tipple. 43
Franklin St, +1 718 383 5030

ShopIn
God We Trust This store carries mostly women's clothing, such as
retro-inspired sundresses, as well as fanciful jewellery and a
smattering of menswear, taxidermy and antiques. 70 Greenpoint Ave,
+1 718 389 3545

BUSHWICK Revitalisation is slowly upgrading this industrial
locale, the hub of Brooklyn's Latin-American community, with a
stream of new art galleries leading the way. Creative types from
adjacent Williamsburg are flitting to this transitional
neighbourhood in search of cheaper rents.

EatRoberta's Arguably the most revered pizzeria in Brooklyn. The raffish
space, with rough-hewn wooden tables, mismatched chairs and humming
patio area, is a magnet for both food fans and party animals. Try
the Bee Sting brunch pizza with chilli, basil and honey. 261 Moore
St, +1 718 417 1118

Blanca Chef Carlo Mirarchi and his partners at Roberta's recently
opened this temple of fine dining behind their bustling pizzeria.
Minimal seating means snagging a reservation can be near
impossible, but those fortunate enough to do so rave about the
25-course tasting menu. 261 Moore St, +1 646 703 2715

DrinkPearl's
Social & Billy Club With its old-school tunes, homespun interiors and drinks
served in Mason jars, it's little wonder this is one of the
neighbourhood's most popular watering holes. 40 St Nicholas Ave, +1
347 627 9985

The
Well A music venue, farmers' market and beer garden in one. It
honours its history as a brewery with 60 beers on tap and another
250 in bottles. Rapper Cam'ron christened the performance space,
called The Wick, in July with its inaugural performance. 272
Meserole St, +1 347 338 3612

BEDFORD-STUYVESANT Bed-Stuy is to Brooklyn what Harlem is to Manhattan - an
African-American cultural mecca. The Notorious B.I.G., Jay-Z and
Lil' Kim all hail from this 'hood which features landmark
19th-century homes, happening eateries and an appealingly gritty
edge.

Eat
Do Or Dine This irreverent restaurant has a mirror ball, graffiti
murals and offbeat but delicious culinary noodlings from chefs
Justin Warner and George McNeese. Dishes include devilled eggs
stuffed with baby octopus and ume, and foie gras and jelly
doughnuts. The name is a riff on the way Biggie Smalls (the late
rapper also known as The Notorious B.I.G.) described his
neighbourhood: "Bed-Stuy, do or die." 1108 Bedford Ave, +1 718 684
2290

Saraghina
This tranquil trattoria with its whitewashed walls, woodfired oven
and quaint furniture is known primarily for its pizza but has other
excellent dishes too. 435 Halsey St, +1 718 574 0010

Umi Nom
Chef King Phojanakong is the scion of Philippine and Thai parents
and explores both sides of his ancestry at this former laundry
space. 433 Dekalb Ave, +1 718 789 8806

Black Swan A one-time auto-body shop has been transformed into a
gastropub. The craft beers draw the happy-hour crowd, while others
come for the signature burger and the fried chicken sandwich. 1048
Bedford Ave, +1 718 783 4744

DrinkOne Last
Shag Perhaps the grooviest bar in Bed-Stuy - certainly it has the
cheekiest name - with upbeat tunes and a relaxed tiki-bar vibe. 348
Franklin Ave, +1 718 398 2472

casaBAN A mix of contemporary and antique furniture as well as
global accent pieces ideal for kitting out a brownstone - or your
pad back home. 397 Tompkins Ave, +1 917 607 3838

CLINTON HILL & FORT GREENE These sister neighbourhoods boast majestic homes, a
multiculti populace and a slightly arty bent care of the Pratt
Institute, a leading design college with the largest sculpture
garden in New York City. Among the main attractions are flea
markets, the Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM), and a score of
dining, drinking and shopping options.

EatLulu &
Po This new arrival, located minutes from BAM, is a welcome
addition to the block. It serves a variety of hot and cold small
plates as well as a few heartier dishes including iron-pressed
firehouse chicken. 154 Carlton Ave, Fort Greene, +1 917 435
3745

Putnam's Putnam's, opened last year by Gerry Rooney, is beloved by
locals and it's not hard to see why. The interior looks to
prohibition-era America but the food is decidedly modern: devils on
horseback - fried oysters on devilled eggs - and grass-fed pork
chops. 419 Myrtle Ave, Clinton Hill, +1 347 799 2382

RED HOOK With cobblestone streets and fishermen still plying their
trade, this is perhaps the most retiring part of Brooklyn, and
definitely the trickiest to get to. The F and G lines are nearby,
but if you're coming from Manhattan, it might be easier to take a
water taxi from South Street Seaport to the Ikea terminal.

CARROLL GARDENS, COBBLE HILL & BOERUM HILL This trio of locales, sandwiched between Brooklyn Heights
and Park Slope, is blessed with tree-lined streets, stellar retail
stores, great bars, and a smorgasbord of leading nosheries. You
could spend days discovering the countless attractions of Smith
Street and Atlantic Avenue.

Buttermilk Channel An inviting bistro that tempts for dinner as well as for
weekend brunch with the likes of warm lamb and cos salad, and
parsley-crusted New England hake. 524 Court St, Carroll Gardens, +1
718 852 8490

Seersucker A childhood in Arkansas and the greenmarket located across the
street provide chef Robert Newton with the inspiration for
sophisticated Southern fare such as crisp catfish and black-pepper
ricotta dumplings. 329 Smith St, Carroll Gardens, +1 718 422
0444

Battersby Owner-chefs Joe Ogrodnek and Walker Stern man the kitchen at
this small but ambitious restaurant that is one of Brooklyn's
leading lights. Go for the heirloom tomato salad with strawberries
and wild sorrel, and the linguine with littleneck clams and
peekytoe crab. Better yet, submit to one of the sublime tasting
menus. 255 Smith St, Cobble Hill, +1 718 852 8321

M.o.B. "Vegetarian food for carnivores" is how French philosopher and
restaurateur Cyril Aouizerate describes this recent sunny arrival
on Atlantic Avenue. Translation: appetising flatbreads shaped like
the Brooklyn Bridge, mushroom burgers and yucca chips. Aouizerate,
co-creator of Mama Shelter in Paris, is looking to open a hotel in
the area, too. 525 Atlantic Ave, Boerum Hill, +1 718 797 2555

DrinkClover
Club Swizzles, punches and royales are among the many options here.
You can also drink your vegetables thanks to libations featuring
cherry tomatoes and basil or sugarsnap peas as key ingredients. 210
Smith St, Cobble Hill, +1 718 855 7939

The Bourgeois Pig The Brooklyn offshoot of this East Village bar shares the
same fin-de-siècle décor - patterned wallpaper, velvet settees and
red lighting - and quality drinks. It also has a fine Euro wine
list and nibbles to share. 387 Court St, Carroll Gardens, +1 718
858 5483

Building on
Bond No matter whether you're in the mood for a macchiato, a
Margarita or a malbec, this spacious café and bar is a sure thing.
It's also decorated with a unique mix of tchotchkes. 112 Bond St,
Boerum Hill, +1 347 853 8687

Darr The name of this fascinating store translates as "home" in
Arabic, and Darr is filled with botanical specimens, anatomical
art, taxidermy and distressed furniture, as well as found objects
scoured from upstate New York and Pennsylvania. 369 Atlantic Ave,
Boerum Hill, +1 718 797 9733

Bird Jennifer Mankins has three Bird boutiques in Brooklyn and this
light-filled branch was the second one to open. Alexander Wang and
Isabel Marant are among the labels carried, and the merch is always
fetchingly arranged. 220 Smith St, Cobble Hill, +1 718 797
3774

PROSPECT HEIGHTS A small yet culturally diverse area with a mix of
well-maintained brownstones, less interesting buildings and ample
green space in the form of Prospect Park. It's also home to
Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Brooklyn Museum and Brooklyn Public
Library.

Franny's The Neapolitan-like pies at this pizzeria have a light,
heavenly crust. Arrive early because bookings aren't taken and it's
typically swamped. Slake your thirst with a Fragola Fizz with gin,
lime juice, strawberry purée and soda while you wait for a table.
295 Flatbush Ave, +1 718 230 0221

606
R&D At City Bakery in Chelsea, Ilene Rosen was known as the "salad
whisperer" for her impressive medleys. Earlier this year she opened
this 30-seat bistro with her business partner Sara Dima. The
carrot-parsnip pancakes with sautéed greens and the spicy pork
sausage, fennel and herb-bread salad are both outstanding. 606
Vanderbilt Ave, +1 718 230 0125

DUMBO This erstwhile grimy warehouse district is now home to
some of the most expensive real estate in Brooklyn, and a slew of
internet firms and digital agencies that have earned it the name
Silicon Beach. Don't miss the enchanting 1922 carousel, enclosed in
an acrylic pavilion by French architect Jean Nouvel
(janescarousel.com), at Brooklyn Bridge Park. Like Brooklyn
Heights, Dumbo (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) features
staggering views of downtown Manhattan.

EatGran
Electrica Light streams through the windows of this Mexican restaurant.
It opens for lunch and dinner and specialises in hand-pressed
tortillas. 5 Front St, +1 718 852 2700

Vinegar Hill
House Adjacent to Dumbo and near the Navy Yard is this quaint little
restaurant on a cobblestone backstreet. Look beyond the
anachronistic interiors to the expertly prepared eats. 72 Hudson
Ave, +1 718 522 1018

DrinkGalapagos Art Space The kind of esoteric performance venue where you might watch a
trapeze artist, chat about the history of punk and swill a few
Dirty Martinis. 16 Main St, +1 718 222 8500

BROOKLYN HEIGHTS While not as happening as its groovy neighbours, this
affluent locale features rows of picturesque homes, from early
19th-century Federal townhouses to Italianate brownstones. It's
conveniently located near downtown Manhattan and has breathtaking
vistas of the city along the promenade.

EatColonie A wall of herbs, flickering candles and high ceilings set the
mood for this superb farmhouse-style restaurant. 127 Atlantic Ave,
+1 718 855 7500

Noodle Pudding An Italian institution with a well-priced, full-flavoured
menu. If you're in the mood for a bowl of mussels and a tiramisù to
finish, this is the place. 38 Henry St, +1 718 625 3737

DrinkThe
Roebling Inn This low-key tavern is named after the designer of the
Brooklyn Bridge, and located a few blocks from the waterfront. Dark
wood panelling and 15 beers on tap set the scene. 97 Atlantic Ave,
+1 718 488 0040

Iris Cafe This is an excellent option for tea, coffee or a sandwich
after you've toured the architectural wonders of the 'hood. 20
Columbia Pl, +1 718 722 7395

FINE PRINT

GETTING THEREQantas
operates direct flights daily from Australia to New York via Los
Angeles. Travellers can also fly via Dallas and connect to New York
on codeshare partner American Airlines.

STAYWythe
Hotel
Rooms start at $190. 80 Wythe Ave, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New
York, +1 718 460 8000.
BROOKLYN'S FINEST Use your Spotify account to listen to our soundtrack to NYC's borough of the moment,
including songs by Brooklyn-raised musicians from The Notorious
B.I.G. and Jay-Z to They Might Be Giants and Dirty Projectors. If
you don't have a Spotify account, follow the prompts to open
one.