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Topic: Fuji x100(s) to Supplement an SLR (Read 13194 times)

Hello All,So I'm seriously considering purchasing the new Fuji x100s. I love my 5Dm3 and my variety of EF lenses, but the entire kit can seem a bit obnoxious at times... particularly for street photography or simply for a camera to casually carry around. I have a point and shoot (S90), but rarely use it as I don't like shooting with an LCD. So I'm looking to get some advice from members who have purchased the x100s or a similar camera. Which do you find yourself using more? Are you glad to have purchased a secondary mirrorless camera to supplement your SLR?

And the other half of this question is a bit more pointed; I'm also considering getting the TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II. However, I've come to the conclusion that I likely wouldn't use a TS lens nearly as often as a more compact mirrorless camera.

I have been thinking the same thing, I was waiting for a 35mm L MkII, but the more I thought about it the more I realised I could get an X100s for less money and have a second, very useful, but smaller and good fun body effectively for free.

I haven't had a good play with the Fuji yet, but I am pretty sure that is the way I will go, I'd prefer a black one.

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Too often we lose sight of the fact that photography is about capturing light, if we have the ability to take control of that light then we grow exponentially as photographers. More often than not the image is not about lens speed, sensor size, MP's or AF, it is about the light.

trygved

Recently unloaded all my Canon gear (except for my 430EX II) for an X100SI didn't really want to jump into the deep end, but I couldn't afford both.I was shooting on a 550D that I had outgrown, w/ a 40mm and a 24-105I like a minimal amount of gear, which was a major + going for the FUJI

There are things that I love, and things that bother me on the regular.Let's be realistic. So many people want to love this camera, and I feel that its flaws are there and people don't want to talk about them

For me it boils down to this:

The lens is sharp enough, but the barrel distortion is sort of dreadful. I sort of feel crazy, but I feel like the distortion only shows heavily on the right side of the frame. Every time I bring the photos in to edit and render them, they look like a homemade cake.

The autofocus is sort of bogus, even when compared to the 550D. It is just a very different AF. When it locks on, it gets it right, but sometimes it just wants to hunt and hunt, seemingly for no reason.

The wheel on the back is super delicate, and s*** gets changed for no reason.

Not sure if it's helpful for me to go over all the good stuff. There's so much, to be honest.If you can get over those few pitfalls, and you're cool with having a fixed 23mm lens camera as your walk around camera, then yeah, it's great.I bought it with the intention of getting a DSLR later, as I currently can't afford both. Having really gotten to know it, however, it fits the bill for everything.I snap the kiddo with it, shoot the cat, use my flash to blast friends at night (which is amazing with the leaf shutter), and feel it has more than held its weight with serious shoots.

Here are some images I've shot, all out of camera (RAW, but untouched for the sake of showing the IQ)To see the work graded, you can check out youngbloodphotography.tumblr.com

I have the X100. The S is supposed to be faster but otherwise they are the same.

There are many goofy things about the camera, hardware and software. As others have said the mechanical dials, of which there are way too many (I only use two or three) get changed accidentally all the time. The battery compartments on the flash accessory are wrong, you have insert one of the batteries against opposite the way you would as indicated by the spring (which normally goes against the tail, not the head). This one is amazing, only on really cheap Chinese toys have I ever seen a lazy mistake like that.

Oftentimes the firmware gets into a state I have a hard time pulling it out. Like the flash mode, some times it's "commander mode" (what the hell is that) where it seems to have a mind of it's own, and not, but often I can't turn off commander mode. The camera actually locks up not too infrequently.

On and on, of course with my generation the AF sucks. However it may work out great for you. Ultimately it taught me to stick with Canon. Maybe a little more boring, but eminently sensible and it works. If they come out with a large format compact for $700 I'll be really happy.

I chose the X-E1 rather than the X100s - but only because I wanted a little more versatility. I played with the X100s in the shop... so based on my 15 mins, they are both wonderful cameras. The user interface is a vast improvement over the X100, focus peaking and the pseudo-rangefinder are fun (but are not available on the X-E1 and never will be.)

I can't speak to the accuracy of the X100s AF but I have found that the X-E1 focuses quickly if you mash the button but it tends to pick a background object. This could be IO (idiot operator) interference.

To comment on the second part of your question - I'm finding that the X-E1 has almost completely replaced my 5D2 and 1D4. This is something of a surprise but the image quality is excellent and 6400 ISO is entirely usable. I've tried several Zuiko OM lenses (via an adapter) and they work great. Sure there are some things it can't do (including supporting a TS lens) but you might be wanting to use a larger format if this was your goal anyway.

On the choice of a mirrorless or a TS-E. I suspect you will use the mirrorless far more. On the other hand, I already own a TS-E 17/4L and keep it in my stable for when I do want to use it. Forced to choose, I'd probably go with the Fuji - but only because I don't earn my living with a camera.

I use the same set-up as the OP: 5D3 & S90. I'm also looking to update the S90 and considering the X100s, since I had been toying with getting a 35mm f/2 for the 5D (and the Fuji's 23mm lens is equivalent to 35mm). All the reviews seem to love this camera. Availability remains tight and price is high, but maybe it's worth it? I'm thinking I'll rent one from Lens Rentals to give it a whirl, first.

Based on what I've read about them (I've never used one) I thought the various Fujis sounded appealing, but only the ones with interchangeable lenses (I seldom use a wide angle lens, which rules out the X100/s); and at the time I was thinking about getting a small back-up camera there was nothing longer than 60mm, which is nowhere near long enough for me. I ended up going with the Olympus OMD instead, in large part so I could best use the Olympus 75mm prime. I suspect (but don't know for sure) that Fuji does better at very high ISOs, but the Olympus is a marvelous camera (I won't spell out why - there's enough written about it already online). It doesn't hurt that a smallish bag containing all my M43 gear (body + 5 primes and two zooms) weighs less than, say, my 70-300L by itself, and that the excellent Panasonic 100-300mm lens is a tiny fraction of the size/weight/obtrusiveness of any DSLR equivalent; it's quite amusing to put it next to my Sigma 50-500 OS.... Nor does it hurt that the focus accuracy of this equipment surpasses any DSLRs I've used.

Anyway, I find myself using the Olympus a lot, though in part that may be just because it's the newer toy. Some of the time I use it by itself, but at other times I take it in conjunction with my 6D or 5DII - it's an easy way to be more versatile with less weight, and with remarkably little compromise in quality (much of the time, none at all).

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I just received my x100s, which I will be using in addition to my 50D, 70-200 2.8 IS and 8mm Fisheye. The X100s is a purpose built camera; and for it's purpose, it is excellent. Much better image quality, sharpness, color, ISO usability, etc than my 50D. Especially for low light, the Fuji is an entirely different, beast than my 50D, and that's exactly what I want. I decided to get this camera instead of a 30 or 35mm 1.4 for my 50D. It is really nice having a second camera without having to drop the cash for a full-frame option (6D + Sigma 35 =~$2700 vs $1300 for the Fuji)

Ive had the X100 for a while now. On most occasions I will prefer to use my 5D3 with the 40mm over the X100, unless I want to travel really light. To me the 5D3 is so much better at everything. The X100 is fun but mine doesnt come out too often. IQ aside my biggest annoyance with the X100 is the exposure +/- dial. I cant tell you how many times I am shooting for a while then look down and see I have changed the setting by accident. Bad location I think. While I have seen some remarkable photos come out of it, I would say I consider it more of my point and shoot camera for when I dont want to lug the 5D3 around.

Ive had the X100 for a while now. On most occasions I will prefer to use my 5D3 with the 40mm over the X100, unless I want to travel really light. To me the 5D3 is so much better at everything. The X100 is fun but mine doesnt come out too often. IQ aside my biggest annoyance with the X100 is the exposure +/- dial. I cant tell you how many times I am shooting for a while then look down and see I have changed the setting by accident. Bad location I think. While I have seen some remarkable photos come out of it, I would say I consider it more of my point and shoot camera for when I dont want to lug the 5D3 around.

I see the X100s has a reccomended max sync speed of 1/2000 while it is possible to shoot at the max speed of 1/4000. I have never shot with a leaf shutter. What kind of power settings would you use on your strobes for this kind of sync?

Ive had the X100 for a while now. On most occasions I will prefer to use my 5D3 with the 40mm over the X100, unless I want to travel really light. To me the 5D3 is so much better at everything. The X100 is fun but mine doesnt come out too often. IQ aside my biggest annoyance with the X100 is the exposure +/- dial. I cant tell you how many times I am shooting for a while then look down and see I have changed the setting by accident. Bad location I think. While I have seen some remarkable photos come out of it, I would say I consider it more of my point and shoot camera for when I dont want to lug the 5D3 around.

I see the X100s has a reccomended max sync speed of 1/2000 while it is possible to shoot at the max speed of 1/4000. I have never shot with a leaf shutter. What kind of power settings would you use on your strobes for this kind of sync?

That largely depends on the equipment. At those speeds, many studio strobes are too slow (t.1 time) to sync that fast. Another issue is if you are using radio triggers they will become a limiting factor around 1/640 to 1/1000. The aperture also limits that; F/2 maxes at 1/1000, any faster speeds will need a smaller aperture.

Ive had the X100 for a while now. On most occasions I will prefer to use my 5D3 with the 40mm over the X100, unless I want to travel really light. To me the 5D3 is so much better at everything. The X100 is fun but mine doesnt come out too often. IQ aside my biggest annoyance with the X100 is the exposure +/- dial. I cant tell you how many times I am shooting for a while then look down and see I have changed the setting by accident. Bad location I think. While I have seen some remarkable photos come out of it, I would say I consider it more of my point and shoot camera for when I dont want to lug the 5D3 around.

I see the X100s has a reccomended max sync speed of 1/2000 while it is possible to shoot at the max speed of 1/4000. I have never shot with a leaf shutter. What kind of power settings would you use on your strobes for this kind of sync?

That largely depends on the equipment. At those speeds, many studio strobes are too slow (t.1 time) to sync that fast. Another issue is if you are using radio triggers they will become a limiting factor around 1/640 to 1/1000. The aperture also limits that; F/2 maxes at 1/1000, any faster speeds will need a smaller aperture.

No they are not, it is not the sync time that is the problem, it is the fact that the shutter is already closing by the time it is synced, so what you get is an effective second aperture, you are exposing your flash through a gap in the shutter, as the shutter speed gets faster the aperture created by the shutter gets smaller. So you lose lots of power.

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Too often we lose sight of the fact that photography is about capturing light, if we have the ability to take control of that light then we grow exponentially as photographers. More often than not the image is not about lens speed, sensor size, MP's or AF, it is about the light.

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trygved

Yeah, you're probably not terribly interested in the X-E1, as it'd require you to invest in lenses, which you're already doing for another system.

At the end of the day, for me, the image quality and leaf shutter makes it worthwhile.With speedlights and an off camera flash cable, it can get 1/1000 at f2, 1/2000 at f4, and 1/4000 at f8Considering the higher f stops also cut power on the flash, I usually just stick with 1/1000.I could see using the the higher speeds if you really need to freeze movement, but I don't.Just being able to match or overpower the sun with a single flash is important to me.

The camera is a bit quirky, but for using it as a backup camera, the IQ is spot on.