It’s always time for a slow cooker

Slow cookers have been around for ages but are once again in vogue with recipes such as this shredded chicken ragu with pasta.

Stephanie S. Cordle | MCT

Slow cookers have been around for ages but are once again in vogue with recipes such as this bouillabaise.

Stephanie S. Cordle | MCT

Slow cookers have been around for ages but are once again in vogue with recipes such as this bouillabaise.

By Joe Bonwich, St. Louis Post-Dispatch

Posted Jan. 24, 2012, at 1:55 p.m.

Home slow cookers have been around for more than 40 years, but today, they’re almost trendy. They’re perfect for braising, a technique that’s a favorite of chefs who have been embracing less-expensive cuts of meat that become hearty and succulent when cooked low and slow.

In addition to braising — cooking food in a little liquid at a fairly low temperature — a spate of new cookbooks have been promoting slow cooking for everything from calorie counting (“Weight Watchers One Pot Cookbook”) to new approaches to ethnic specialties (“The French Slow Cooker,” by Michele Scicolone; “Slow Cooking,” by Antony Worrall Thompson, which has recipes inspired by the foods of Asia, Africa and the Caribbean).

And if you live alone or in a small household, slow cookers are great for making a meal to enjoy right away plus leftovers to refrigerate or freeze for later.

If you haven’t pulled your slow cooker out of the cabinet for a while, maybe it’s time. Here are some recipes to get you off to a fast start toward some wonderful slow food.

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Slow-cooker tips

• Cut ingredients to uniform sizes for even cooking.

• For better flavor, brown meat and vegetables on the stove before adding them to the cooker.

• Make sure the slow cooker is at least half full, but don’t overfill: Leave a gap of at least 1½ inches between the food and the top.

• Dishes usually take twice as long to cook on low as they do on high. Many dishes, however — soups, braises, casseroles and meat in pieces, for example — cook best on low.

• Like microwaves, slow cookers can vary. When first using a slow cooker, check to see if the food is done more quickly or slowly than the recommended cooking times and adjust accordingly when using the cooker for other recipes.

• Suggested times are generally not hard and fast: A dish will not be ruined if left on for an hour or so longer.

• Avoid lifting the lid during cooking. If you do, add 20 minutes to the cooking time.

• Don’t soak the ceramic pot in water to clean it. The exterior of the base is usually porous, and any absorbed water could cause it to crack when next heated.

Combine dry mustard, thyme, chile powder, coriander, paprika, cumin, anise, ginger and brown sugar in a small bowl. Salt and pepper the brisket on both sides. Rub the brisket with a little olive oil. Generously coat the brisket on all sides with the rub. Place onions, carrots, celery and garlic in a 6-quart or larger slow cooker. Place the brisket, fat side up, on top of the vegetables. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours. Transfer the brisket to a cutting board or platter, cover loosely and let cool completely before trimming off fat and slicing. Strain the drippings through a fine-mesh strainer into a storage container. Discard vegetables. Cover and refrigerate the drippings until the fat rises to the top and hardens. Remove and discard the fat. The remaining drippings can be heated and served as a sauce with the sliced brisket. Cooked brisket can be wrapped well and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 month. To reheat, place sliced brisket and strained drippings into a casserole or large oven-safe pot and cover. Reheat in 300-degree oven for 15-20 minutes.

Combine tomatoes, carrots, celery, fennel and leek in a large slow cooker. Add tomato paste, Herbes de Provence, paprika, saffron and salt to taste. Add water, wine and clam juice. Cover and cook on high for 4-5 hours or until the vegetables are tender. Cut fish into bite-size chunks and stir into the soup with sea scallops, shrimp and clams (if using). Cover and cook for 30 minutes more. Taste; adjust seasonings if necessary. Place a slice of bread into each soup dish. Add bouillabaise; sprinkle with fennel fronds. Serve hot with a spoonful of rouille on top. Pass the remaining bread and rouille at the table.

Note: Herbes de Provence is a spice mixture available in the dried spice aisle of some supermarkets and at specialty stores. Typical ingredients include some combination of thyme, rosemary, savory, sage, basil, fennel seeds and lavender.

In a blender or food processor, finely chop red peppers and garlic together. Add mayonnaise, oil, lemon juice and paprika; process until smooth. Serve immediately with bouillabaisse or other dishes or refrigerate in a covered jar for up to 2 days.

Combine tomatoes, onion, basil, garlic, bay leaf, salt and pepper in a 5- or 6-quart slow cooker. Nestle the chicken in the vegetables. Cover and cook on low until chicken is cooked through, about 4-6 hours. Discard basil sprigs and bay leaf. With a slotted spoon, transfer chicken to a cutting board. With two forks, shred chicken. Discard bones. Return chicken to slow cooker along with rotini; toss until mixed well. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan.