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E60 / E61 (2004 - 2010) BMW 5-Series E60 Sedan was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E61 wagon followed shortly there after. The E60/E61 5 series is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

I had some spare time today . So I tried to find that part out here in so cal . I got the same results !! No one has it out here either ! Unbelievable..

Thanks man.. I finally heard back from getbmwparts.com and they said they could expedite. Waiting on info for pricing/timing though. I am not sure if they really can or just THINK they can since most parts are a lot easier to get. We'll see

Also bmw south atlanta said they could expedite, so I told them to do it too. We shall see..

Thanks man.. I finally heard back from getbmwparts.com and they said they could expedite. Waiting on info for pricing/timing though. I am not sure if they really can or just THINK they can since most parts are a lot easier to get. We'll see

Also bmw south atlanta said they could expedite, so I told them to do it too. We shall see..

I am leaving the main bearings unmolested on my engine. I Just don't want to open Pandora's box and go overboard financially (At least other members benefit from our adventures).

Thanks man.. I finally heard back from getbmwparts.com and they said they could expedite. Waiting on info for pricing/timing though. I am not sure if they really can or just THINK they can since most parts are a lot easier to get. We'll see

Also bmw south atlanta said they could expedite, so I told them to do it too. We shall see..

I am leaving the main bearings unmolested on my engine. I Just don't want to open Pandora's box and go overboard financially (At least other members benefit from our adventures).

Don't blame you.. you going to check a few or just leave them alone totally?

Quote:

Originally Posted by H F

Well,,, u can do a trany rebuild DIY in the mean time ..lol

haha.. I thought about it. I have enough things that could go wrong as it is. Adding a transmission rebuild (I've never rebuilt a transmission) would just be asking for trouble. I'm going to laugh when my "new" engine has more power than before and wears the transmission out in a month..... (not likely, but who knows at this point)

A guy over on bimmerforums pulled his engine as well.. and rebuilt transmission. Some decent info on the transmission rebuild over there

Was pouring down rain and 33* here today, so I didn't do a lot. Spent a few hours cleaning the upper/lower oil pans. Man these things were nasty. It literally took 2 hours of cleaning to get them to this point. Sorry, forgot to take any pictures of what I started with.

I could not believe how well the old oil pan gaskets were stuck on.. I literally ripped the metal part off of the gasket and the silicone (or whatever it is) part was still on there. I had to peal it off in quite a few pieces and do some scraping to get the last bits off..

I am also looking into buying a cheapo soda blaster to help clean the rest of the parts a little quicker.. we'll see

Thanks, I'm in the UK so will source some industrial cleaner or something similar from eBay for the smaller parts. Luckily the company I work for has a few industrial parts washers which I hope to put most of the big bits in, and the aqua blast or sand blast some parts,covers for the hell of it! Although I do find cleaning parts by hand great fun!

It will be great to properly clean the engine bay too when the engine is out, when my il pressure switch split (I have never seen so much mess!) I managed to clean most of it out with some strong kitchen cleaner and a steam cleaner! As you know though, most of the gaskets leak after time and really makes a mess of things!

They should be arriving here any day now actually, and I can have our shipping staff contact you prior to completing the order via email as well.

So, sounds like I am getting close.. they have been the most responsive of any BMW parts supplier I have ever seen. ECS is pretty good usually, but they were not much help in trying to get this part expedited. They just gave the usual "it's gonna take 4-6 weeks.." thing

IT'S IN THE US! They even brought in a full set even though I only needed one.

I asked them to get it here by Saturday.. so we shall see. Thanks to whoever recommended these guys!

Quote:

this item has arrived and is ready to ship – when did you need to receive this order?

Also, I know you ordered just one – but I wasn't sure if you needed the full set of 4. These are actually sold individually by BMW so if you need 4, they will be $31.14 each. We got a batch in, so I can send as many as you need.

Great news!!!!! Looking forward to the pictures of the rebuild! Bet you can't wait to get started!

I can't wait to tear mine apart now, although need to get a run around in the meantime!

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

I'm torn on it.. a little worried, there's just so many little things to get right putting the engine back together and so few people have rebuilt these their selves that there is not a lot of advice to go on. Just little things like for some of the bolts that are torqued the specs say to oil them, then in other places it'll say be sure the bolts are dry.. so it's like which one do you do??

Then there's physically getting the engine into the car which is just going to be a battle any way you cut it. Then trying to get all the bellhousing bolts in when I could barely even get them out even when I had a head off along with both valve covers.. Over on another forum someone told me that if you remove the transmission mounts so that you can basically tilt the whole engine back (basically transmission down/front of the engine pointing up) it gives you enough space to get to the bellhousing bolts. He has the engine out of his 550 to do basically a top end rebuild.. Obviously I have to get a few bolts started to get the engine/transmission connected first, but I am going to give that a try most likely.

So yeah, I'm looking forward to finally making some real progress, but also trying to be patient and finish it right after all the time and money I've put into it. This is literally probably only the 3rd engine I've built, so I'm no professional by any means, and this is by far the pickiest one with the tightest tolerance.. the valvetronics stuff is what I'm really worried about the most

But it will be nice to get back into my car. I sat in it the other day and it smells so good compared to the Honda I'm driving now. I really hope I can knock it out over Christmas break. Speaking of which, there is one radiator hose I need to order, forgot about that!

Im just browsing through this thread, i remember when you bought the engine i dont know if you were planning to rebuild it when you got it or were just going to throw it in but im soo glad you took it a part to see what was in it. I remember when i was putting engine in my project car just hoping everything would be ok just to have to take it out again because it had shAt compression. Did you change the main bearings though? Looks can be deceiving i would have replaced them to be on the safe side(you have a really good camera btw). The machine shop is your friend. Otherwise this is a great thread to read through looks like your doing everything thoroughly, helps when you have the time and an extra car to do the job right.

Im still struggling with my car i plan on buying another car for a DD than picking up all the parts for valve seals, coolant tube, transmission solenoids and whatever else common problem has not been addressed on this car, then knock it out in the summer time when im off from school.

Yep, am replacing all main and rod bearings. One of the mains is what I have been waiting on for the last few weeks.. They were not cheap, that's for sure..

Took my battery by Auto Zone (H8-AGM) today, it was only about a year old and no longer will charge, so they are replacing it for free.. I'm sure it sitting with the car in piece for a few months didn't help. And part of that time it was still connected so I'm sure the computers sucked it dry

Yep, am replacing all main and rod bearings. One of the mains is what I have been waiting on for the last few weeks.. They were not cheap, that's for sure..

Took my battery by Auto Zone (H8-AGM) today, it was only about a year old and no longer will charge, so they are replacing it for free.. I'm sure it sitting with the car in piece for a few months didn't help. And part of that time it was still connected so I'm sure the computers sucked it dry

Make sure the battery is not sitting on concrete its ok for a day or 2 obviously, but Concrete actually drains batteries and will eventually kill them, put a piece of cardboard or wood under it. You only have 2 free replacement on the battery and used one so save the other IIRC those Batteries have 3 year free replacement and a 2 year prorate after that(i use to work at autozone )

Make sure the battery is not sitting on concrete its ok for a day or 2 obviously, but Concrete actually drains batteries and will eventually kill them, put a piece of cardboard or wood under it. You only have 2 free replacement on the battery and used one so save the other IIRC those Batteries have 3 year free replacement and a 2 year prorate after that(i use to work at autozone )

Yep, I knew it's 3 year replacement then not sure on the prorate period but that sounds about right. I did not know it was a limited quantity of replacements though

Did not know that--I had just been leaving it disconnected sitting in the trunk, but am going to leave it somewhere else until I'm closer to being done just to be sure I don't accidentally get a little jolt!

Make sure the battery is not sitting on concrete its ok for a day or 2 obviously, but Concrete actually drains batteries and will eventually kill them, put a piece of cardboard or wood under it. You only have 2 free replacement on the battery and used one so save the other IIRC those Batteries have 3 year free replacement and a 2 year prorate after that(i use to work at autozone )

Actually that was true in the days when battery cases were constructed of wood. The wood would wick water from the ground or the electrolyte would soak through the wood. Once the wood was soaked through it became a path to ground.

Actually that was true in the days when battery cases were constructed of wood. The wood would wick water from the ground or the electrolyte would soak through the wood. Once the wood was soaked through it became a path to ground.

That is true but the plastic cases these days reduces the rate of discharge but they batteries still discharge on concrete, we have seen it happen at work leaving batteries on the concrete floor, after about a week a brand new batteries are dead, luckily they could be recharged so they were salvageable......otherwise what would have happened to somebodies job

That is true but the plastic cases these days reduces the rate of discharge but they batteries still discharge on concrete, we have seen it happen at work leaving batteries on the concrete floor, after about a week a brand new batteries are dead, luckily they could be recharged so they were salvageable......otherwise what would have happened to somebodies job

That is true but the plastic cases these days reduces the rate of discharge but they batteries still discharge on concrete, we have seen it happen at work leaving batteries on the concrete floor, after about a week a brand new batteries are dead, luckily they could be recharged so they were salvageable......otherwise what would have happened to somebodies job

Yea that's total nonsense.. Perhaps the warehouse where they were sitting was seriously below zero and had some effect but otherwise that's total fairytail.

Will do on the seals. May be the weekend before I work on it again though

The tool is machined correctly, the timing is just slightly off, probably just from the chain stretching a little over time. I would imagine the actual amount it's off is very minimal in the end

I have seen someone else do the same "test" over on one of the X5 forums and theirs was MUCH further off and they said the engine ran just fine

Does this mean timing could be performed by sight without the timing tool?

It appears the intake and exhaust cams timing slot / surfaces should be pointed perpendicular to the heads. Or stated another way the slot / surfaces should be pointed parallel to the direction of piston travel. Is this correct?