I have been working on this off and on for a few months, and decided it was time to share my work thus far and ask for new ideas. If you want to get to the good stuff, just skip down to the pictures. Otherwise, I have an informative preamble for you.

I am a 28 years old male. And, I would assume, like most people on here, I have been interested in bondage/ chastity belts since my teens. I think it is just something you grow up with. At the time, I didn't know about chastity belts per say, but I did very much enjoy the feel of an athletic cup/jock strap. Skip forward a few years, and while browsing the internet I came across Altarboy's page (now long dead) which talked about chastity belts and making them, and I have been hooked since.

Being broke in college, I had no money to buy one, so I decided to build one instead. I had no idea what I was doing, but the internet gave me lots of ideas. The full metal belts looked appealing, but were well beyond my capability. The best I could do is make some PVC piping and chains which were not comfortable or practical for any use.

I tried using athletic cups, but the problem with those is that they dig into your thighs when pulled tight. Furthermore, I was never able to find a cup that had room for the penis to lay down between the balls. Every design (including nutty buddy) has your penis kinda squished up at the top. This is fine until you get an erection, then the cup doesn't sit down fully. If you strap it down, then it just gets really uncomfortable really fast as your penis has no where to go.

The problem is most cups are designed to be as low profile as possible, So they are flat and wide. The flat doesn't give you room, and the wide just chafes your thighs. There is also the problem that the edges of the cup are shallow compared to your skin. As such, it is easy for your scrotum skin to expand, and get caught under the edge. Which hurts a lot.

I looked at the ball trapping devices (CB 2000 and all the ones that have come out since) and those didn't look too appealing. They pull off very easily if you go limp. And if you get an erection, they put a lot of force on your balls, which I always found to be very sensitive. I am not a masochist, so being in pain while having an erection doesn't appeal to me. I am looking for that gentle control, not painful backlash. And of course those devices could easily be circumvented by nothing more then cold water, making them pretty useless.

Fast forward a couple more years and I got a real job (aerospace engineer) with some money to spend, so decided it was time to get a real chastity belt. The ball trapping devices have improved some, but they still rely on squeezing your balls and can be easily pulled out of. So, that's still a no go.

Meanwhile, the quality of full belts seems to have declined. The belts that I used to look at, like Latowski and Reynolds, seem to have gone out of business. Most of the belts available today seem to be just crude penis tubes fashioned to steel plates that cut between the legs. This of course would have problem as there is nothing to prevent your balls from getting stuck/chafed/squished, and also the force holding everything down rests on the base of your penis which causes irritation.

The best I saw was My-steel's untouchable. But that has problems like your urine going all over your scrotum. Their ball cover also has a very thin edge which means the force holding everything in place is very concentrated. Also, there didn't seem to be anything to prevent the scrotum skin from expanding and getting pinched/caught.

At the same time, I am an engineer, and wanted to expand my nerd capabilities, and I was looking at 3D printers. So, I decided to get a 3D printer, and make my own chastity belt. I figured it would be better for the following reasons.

1. I could make a full belt that covered the genitals completely. This is always something that I wanted, like a Latowski or Reynolds. I want to not be able to see or touch anything.2. I could make it a custom fit, so that I wouldn't have to worry about chafing or trying to get it refitted.3. I could make the cup with thick edges that distribute the load evenly over a large area. That way I can pull it tight and get a secure fit without causing discomfort.4. I could include a lip on the inside of the cup that would keep the scrotum in place and prevent it from pinching.5. I could have a separate chamber for the penis that led directly downwards, thus not spraying urine anywhere6. I could have a gap between my scrotum and the penis tube, so it wouldn't press on the soft and tender underside section where the scrotum and penis meet.7. I could wear the device as protection for when I play sports (not often, but occasionally). And for that you want a thick arched section (not thin sheet metal) and a large area to spread the load over. I didn't see anything like that in any of the belts on the market.

Basically, I wanted the belt to look like a latowski (see below), but with a thick outer shell instead of the sheet metal, and with tuck under sides to prevent scrotal pinching.

So, I started with trying to get the shape of my thigh to know where to put the cup perimeter. This would be a job for a 3D scanner. But I don't have one of those (would definitely get one if I were to make a business out of this). Instead, I made a template using some thin bailing wire and duct tape. The same way you would make a template for a corset. Needless to say, it went poorly, but I got some measurements and did some CAD. I then made a template and printed it out. my first attempt looked like this:Front ViewSide view.

As you can see, there is the tuck under where it goes underneath me, and a hole for my penis/scrotum. It turns out that I got the curvature wrong as it didn't fit well. But it gave me something to tweak.

A couple tries later, I had a better curvature, but was having problems with chaffing on the thighs if I tried doing any physical activity. So, I tried making it a bit thinner:Front ViewSide view.

Better, but not quite. Still some chafing, but not so much from the width, as the sharp edge. Also, the hole needed to be bigger. So, I tried it with more rolled edges:Front ViewSide View

After I had a comfortable base that I could wear for a couple hours and do physical activity in without it chafing/hurting, I started making the cup. The perimeter (part touching my crotch) of the cup follows the same contour as the above examples.

Here again, I went through multiple iterations. Here is one of my early ones:This is a side view, cut in half

As you can see, at the base of the scrotum, there is a little back flap. This helps to both distribute the load from the cup over a wider area (more comfortable, and better for sports impacts) as well as prevent the scrotum from getting caught and pinched. So I printed it out, tried it on, made some notes, then threw it in the trash as it was very uncomfortable.

I had to adjust both the angle and the height of the penis tube. As you can see in this example, the penis goes almost horizontal before bending down. I found this to be very uncomfortable when getting an erection as it basically forced your penis to do a 120 degree bend. I also misjudged the appropriate height of the tube. And my balls were pretty squished in tight.

So, a few iterations later, and some more failed prints/test/etc. I came up with something like this:It felt better. As you can see, there is more room for the penis, and the bend is far less severe. It looks more like a latowski now, and I guess I know why he designed it that way.

However, there where still problems with things being cramped in the ball section. Also, the penis tube kept feeling too tight up top (especially with that sharp inlet edge) and too loose at the exit. Likewise, the scrotum back flap looked kinda flimsy, doubtful it would help much in an impact. And the front shell was way to thin (1/8") to distribute and loads.

So a couple trials and attempts later led to my current design:Note the beefier front section and back flap. Also, the cross section of the penis tube decreases as you go further down (much like your anatomy) in order to provide a good fit. I also came up with a solution to the ball area. By introducing a bulge as seen here:

This is a cross section view looking top down, cut half way down the penis tube.

As you can see, the bulge outwards added about half an inch (its alot) width without increasing the width pressed against the thigh. Thus you get the width for the balls without chafing. At the same time, it also had the benefit of creating a lip to prevent the scrotum from getting under and being pinched at the sides.

You can see the model compared to the actual print here:

I have worn this cup with a jockstrap off and on (2 days maximum) for a few weeks now and it fits very well. But being an engineer, I have tried to do even better. I attempted to make a silicon liner, with a plastic backing. The first attempts failed badly. I didn't get the pour right, I got air bubbles trapped, I had seams in all the wrong placed. So after several retries, and spending alot of time reprinting molds over and over, I am still not there yet. But here is where I am at:

The red would be the plastic. The blue would be the silicone insert. I have gotten decent results, but only with low viscosity silicone which aren't food/medical grade. To do it properly, I will need a vacuum pump, which I just ordered. If you want to see part of the mold, it looks like this:

Single part mold for penis/scrotum cavity/belly plate. This eliminates all seems where it touches my skin (lesson I leaned)

Doing the silicone insert has a couple advantages, For starters, you can much more easily polish a male insert than the inside of the tube, leading to a smoother finish. You can also use cheaper ABS which polishes up nicely for the mold, and stronger Nylon for the belt. Thus getting smoothness where you need it, and strength where you need it. It is also probably better to have your skin against food/medical grade silicone than plastic for long duration. And lastly, the ability of the silicone to flex means you get less pressure points, especially at the base of your scrotum/penis where the sharp(ish) edges can cause tenderness.

So, now I need to figure out what to do next. I have a couple ideas, including:1. Add lots of air/ventilation holes to the scrotum section. Small enough that the skin can't get caught, but large enough to get some fresh air and drain water (which it can't do currently). But this will be tricky if I want to use a silicone liner, so need to figure that out.2. Add a fluid injection system for the penis chamber (like Lawtoski has). I need to figure out a good way to do that. But it would allow for rinsing and adding more mineral oil (baby oil), which really helps keep it comfortable.

I also need to start working on the belt itself. That is where I am having some problems as the hip is a complex 3D shape and plastic can't easily bent into shape like metal can. A 3d scanner might help, but those are expensive, I have been trying to use 123D Catch to take some images, but that doesn't work as well as you might hope.

I was thinking of maybe going with a cloth harness that I could sow loops into and hold the belt up. Something like a cross between this:https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ar-w ... an-be-wornand a hernia belt. It would be more breathable than plastic, but might also retain more moisture after showers. I don't know, I haven't figured that part out yet. Any suggestions welcome.

So, that's all I have for now. Feel free to ask questions, or give suggestions for improvement.

For starters, I moved and am now living in Austin for a new job. So, that has kept me busy, and I haven't had much time to work on this. But I did make some progress.

I gave up on trying to make a silicone liner. I got the vacuum pump, and got some really good results with my test pieces, but I don't think it is worth the extra difficulty. Sanded and smoothed plastic is proving just as usable, with far less difficulty. I might retry it eventually though, depending on how long term wear and comfort works out.

The biggest advancement I made was in the design of the belt itself. I got myself a 3d scanner. Specifically, the primesense carmine 1.09. It is like the Kinect 3d camera, but better. It can resolve shapes down to less than a millimeter. I have tried a dozen different ways of measuring myself, and what I found is that the human body is far more difficult to measure than I first assumed. Part of the problem is that I am used to working with hard metals that don't change shape much. By comparison, the human body changes shape between standing, sitting, lying down, etc. It also is much squishier than metals, such that trying to match the shape exactly will just cause pressure on the hip bones.

So, long story short. I found that preloading with tight fitting underwear (actually got some spanx and cut a whole out for my junk), as well as a bunch of other technical stuff gets a pretty good shape. You can see the rough scan output here:

Notice I cut it in half, and will mirror it later. Also, you can see the edge where my belly sticks out over where the underwear pulled it in tight.

Note that it is currently held together by duct tape as this is a prototype. I am just testing it for fit. I also didn't include the penis tube or cup in this model as I want to get the fit right before I hide things away and can't see how they are sitting.

Also, I had to learn a bunch of new techniques for 3D printing in order to do this. Large thin objects tend to warp if you don't handle them right. So, this was a learning challenge all around.

Thus far, I have worn this belt for 2 days. I think I need to do something better for the back string as that isn't working well. And I need to measure the stomach a bit better as there is a gap when I lay down. But the good news is that the waist straps feel perfect on my hips. It isn't digging in at all like my previous attempts. I think the 3d shaping really helped there. It is also sitting pretty well on my crotch without any pinching or chafing on the inner thigh (like you would get with an athletic cup). It also stays in position very nicely without riding up on me when I sit down or move about.

Overall, it is a good start. I hope to have the process ironed out after a few more tries and get a very snug and comfortable belt. After that, I can add the penis tube and cup back on, then a locking mechanism.

This is awesome, and proof if it were needed that there's no new technology that can't be perverted. Though I've been kicking around similar ideas they haven't got much beyond that - just some toys: a scrotum shackle, ball cage and embryonic penis tube so far. I'm also working on a wearable computer programmable dildo for a lady friend. For those who haven't actually tried 3D printing, it's still in its infancy - relatively clumsy, slow and unreliable. A thin-walled ball cage prototype took around five hours to print and the parts for the dildo nearer seven.

Taridyn: If you gave up on the silicone liner, have you tried printing with alternative materials? I've only used PLA and ABS (with a preference for the latter as the finish can be smoothed easily with acetone vapour) but I'm considering a combination of NinjaFlex (a rubber-like material, available under different names) and carbon fibre, to combine comfort and strength. Both are about 2-3 times the price of PLA but potentially well worth the extra.

The PrimeSense sounds interesting, if outside my price range, (the Kinect is useless for this type of work) and I'd need to take my 3D design skills to another level to benefit from it. One day perhaps, but I don't think Latowski has to fear competition just yet.

Ah, another 3d printing enthusiast. To answer your questions, I haven't tried printing with flexible materials yet. I have done PLA, ABS, and various grades of nylon from Taulman 3d.

The ABS is nice because, as you said, acetone smoothing allows you to get good smooth prints (very useful for things touching tender areas of your anatomy). However, it is not food grade, and is also somewhat brittle.

PLA is kinda good for making fit check items as it is easier to work with, but harder to smooth than ABS, and it is biodegradable which means that it probably wouldn't handle showers, urine, sweat, or other chemicals for too long. It is also weaker and even more brittle than ABS.

Nylon is great cause it is stronger, food grade, flexible (without being stretchy), and prints smooth, low friction surfaces. The problem is you can't smooth it chemically like ABS, which makes it hard to smooth out hard to reach spots like the inside of the tube. It also is much more tricky to work with. I have an E3D hot end, and a direct drive, but even after a lot of work and modding, I still fail prints. I am getting better at it though.

As far as the flexible filament, Ninjaflex breaks down with repeated exposure to water. Soft PLA is biodegradable, and thus wouldn't last too long in an actual belt exposed to sweat, urine, etc. and TPE isn't food grade.

So, my plan is either to make the entire belt out of food grade nylon, or to make the waistband, and cup out of nylon, with a silicone insert (like Latowski). I can make the silicone molds out of ABS and smooth them out very well. The problem is that turns the cup from 1 print, into at least 4, plus the difficulty of vacuum processing the silicone, plus the cost of the extra material for the mold and the silicone.

Progress has been occurring. I finally finished moving, so I have had more time to work on this.

Since my last update, I have made the following improvements:

The first belt was loose at the gut, which left a big gap when laying down. I decided to fix this by rescanning myself in a lying position, but with better accuracy. So, I fine tuned, calibrated, and fixed up the scanning methodology and came up with this:

And then the clean up afterwards (right side done, will be mirrored over to the left). You can also see the much higher resolution in this attempt.http://i.imgur.com/UPxMwSP.jpg

I also changed the design of the belt quite a bit.

Instead of using tape to hold the plastic together, I have decided to use cables to post tension the structure. So you can see what I am talking about, here:

This last one shows a close up of the belly plate. One of the nice features about this method is that the cable lengths can be individually varied by adding in shims. Those are just little U shaped plastic pieces that sit between the cable end and the side rest. ass you can see here, more shims pulls the belt in tighter. This allows you to make the gaps between the belt pieces larger or smaller, and thus adjust the tightness of the belt. Since the shims can come in any thickness, you can vary the size of the belt by any amount. Here I have 1/2" and 1/4" shims shown. So it is easy to control the tightness in 1/8" increments (could be smaller if needed).

Likewise, since the back cable (that goes down your but) is connected in a similar fashion, you can control the tightness of that back cable as well by adding or removing shims. As such, the top cable controls belt size, the bottom cable controls back cable length. It is fully adjustable.

Also shown is how the connection between the crotch plate and belly plate can be adjusted. While not included in this model, it is possible to do a similar shimming approach to make the crotch pulled up tighter or looser to the belly plate.

Of course in the final version, there would be a locking plate that covers the cable ends and V from the crotch. But this is still a fit check prototype.

Another benefit of this cable approach (aside from being easily adjustable) is that the back passage is much better. As there are now 2 cables instead of 1, it goes around the anal opening, allowing for easier bathroom usage. It also goes to either side the tip of the tail bone, so you don't get pressure on that point.

Overall, I just finished cleaning it up and taking some pictures, I will try wearing it over the next few days including the shower and using the toilet (couldn't do that in last prototype as duct tape wont work in showers. And the back passage was a complete mess). And will probably find a bunch of thing to improve and make better. I already have some ideas for my next design just based off lessons learned from printing and assembling this one.

So an idea came to mind the other day about how you could lock it easy. What if you made a front plate that just snapped on? But made it in a way that when you tried to remove the front the tab that held it on broke off. This way if you removed the front plate to take it off you could not snap it back in. This front plate would have plenty of room for a "key holder" to sign it or number them so they knew if you had tampered with it.

really like where this is going and really like the design of it as well.

I've been playing with some initial designs myself, but there's a learning curve to this software, even knowing 2D software cold. I'm curious what you're using, especially for drawn shapes on a scanned mesh.

I also have access to scans from a structure sensor, which is highly accurate and similarly creepy to see yourself digitized... but software-wise I've been having issues snapping to it neatly, at least with whats available freely/cheaply on a mac. I keep coming back to Fusion 360, after messing with a number of others. But I'm starting to have nice clean prints in ABS, and things are going to get weird.

whow...what an amazing piece you are creating ! i am also at the same point where i feel only a full secure belt like the one you are developing will keep me on track. i had problems before with pullout ect...not seeing,feeling or being able to touch is the only way to go. i just wish you be already at the stage of even making it available to the public ! just wondering if there could be any adjustments for different bodyshapes or if each individual person will have to be body scanned...? keep up your amazing work and hopefully one day i could get in touch to order one,-cant wait...!all the best,S.

buttn wrote:whow...what an amazing piece you are creating ! i am also at the same point where i feel only a full secure belt like the one you are developing will keep me on track. i had problems before with pullout ect...not seeing,feeling or being able to touch is the only way to go. i just wish you be already at the stage of even making it available to the public ! just wondering if there could be any adjustments for different bodyshapes or if each individual person will have to be body scanned...? keep up your amazing work and hopefully one day i could get in touch to order one,-cant wait...!all the best,S.

For starters, people have been asking what happened to me. Well, primarily I got a full time job. And by full time, I mean a 50-60 hour per week, brain meltingly difficult, job that didn't really leave me much time for hobbies. I also hit a couple dead ends with my chastity belt development that made progress seem impossible, so I decided to put it on the back burner until I had more time.

Well, I left that job, and recently found myself with some more time. So, I decided to pick up where I left off and see if I could get a working design finally.

To understand the problem, you have to understand that I am really skinny. As in 5'7", 105 lbs. Or 170cm, 48kg for you metric types. This gives me the problem in that I have NO padding/fat anywhere. So, while a decently fitting belt might be good enough for most people as their fat acts like padding, that doesn't work for me. The difference between a belt that I can wear for several days comfortably, vs a belt that is unbearably painful after an hour is only 3 mm (1/8").

I tried to account for this with the cable style belt from previous posts. That way I could tension the cable in or out a few mm and get the belt to fit perfectly. The problem is that the cables will allow the belt to twist at the hips, causing the waist belts to ride up and dig into my ribs, or sit low and dig into my hips, or squeeze in and, well, you get the picture. This probably wouldn't be a problem for most people, but for somebody like me who again has ZERO padding on their hips, this basically made the problem unsolvable.

The cable style belt also had the problem where you could squeeze the waist belts together and get more room to slip a finger where it shouldn't go. And the locking method was tricky at best, involving a covering flap that really wasn't strong (i.e. easy to break off with a screw driver) and was finicky to put on and tighten properly.

So, I decided to skip using cables for the waist, and go with a hinged design. Basically, the same style you see in a Carrara chastity belt. This kept the shape fairly stable. But I still stuck with the dual cable layout for the back passage. This is really nice as it doesn't put any force on to the tail bone. It also allows for some flexibility. When walking, the cables come together, and sit snugly between your cheeks so their is no chafing or rubbing. But for defecation, they can spread apart, giving you room to do your business without getting anything messy.

Its worth pointing out, that getting to this shape wasn't an easy task. I had to go back, and redo the 3d scan of my waist to get an exact shape. And then I had to do a bunch of iterations to figure out how to compensate for the plastic shrinkage, scanning error, offsets for padding, figure out the shape of my hip bones, and a bunch of other problems that you wouldn't think of. For example, my hips are not perfectly symmetrical, one side is higher than the other, which makes a difference. Here you can see a partial collection of my attempts. I made more, but most of them wound up in the garbage, this is just what I found leftover when going through my bench.https://i.imgur.com/HA2UWOi.jpg

Its worth noting, these aren't finished designs ready for long term wear, I printed them in ABS, so I am going to need to print them in a higher quality plastic when I am done changing the design. I am still going through and fiddling with the design to make it a bit more comfortable, easier to clean, etc. So it isn't a finished design, but I can wear this belt for several days straight and take care of bathroom, cleaning, etc.

1. PaddingAt first, I tried to make the belt work without padding. And that is definitely doable if your only interested in keeping it securely fit, but not if you want it to be wearable for more than a few hours, especially if you move around a lot and bend over. You don't really need padding on the cup, as it is sitting on soft tissue. But the part where it goes over the waist, as well as the back plate need padding to be comfortable. Basically, the hip bones and the plastic are separated by only skin (again, no fat), so there is no natural padding. As such, any small movement causes chafing/pinching.

I tried a variety of padding on the belt, anything from custom poured silicone (see previous post), to glued on neoprene, to rubber sheets. These often didn't stay on very well, or for very long, and could easily get torn off when cleaning. I would put a wash cloth under the belt and pull it back and forth to clean the skin under, and the padding would just tear off. It also left me sweaty as the padding didn't breathe well. I found the solution by getting myself one of these (tube style):http://www.diabeticsock.com/products/Br ... -86-2.html

Designed to be worn under a back brace, they are made from a padded, cushy, breathable material. I just double it over, and tuck it under the belt, with a bit extra over the top to fold down and hide the waist band:https://i.imgur.com/laQOIAl.jpg

The belt sits in the small of the back, so a loose T-shit covers it easily, and the cup is pulled in pretty tight, and everything is well packaged, so it doesn't stand out very far from the body. I actually think it is less noticeable than the typical ball trap devices as it pulls the penis down rather than out and doesn't need a space for the ball ring.

The padding can then be easily removed for showering which is good as you don't need to wait for the padding to dry, and also it gives a bit extra space to get a wash cloth under the belt. If you are doing jumping jacks in the shower it can get a bit uncomfortable without the padding, but in general since you aren't moving quickly, it doesn't hurt. And you can easily swap out multiple clothes so you don't need to worry about stains, funky odors building up, or stuff like that.

2. CleaningYou may not have noticed, but on the front of the cup are small little holes. These holes lead to internal passages, which are used to clean the inside of the penis chamber. You can see the holes and passages marked in blue, with the cleaning ports (where the water comes out) in red.https://i.imgur.com/Xw0JZpj.jpg

Doesn't need to be those brands specifically, but any water pick or water syringe will work. The passages are actually split into 2 sections, for the top and lower holes. That way, when you urinate, you can just flush it out easily by squirting some water into both the lower holes. This gets any urine droplets out. Also, you don't need much, so you can just carry a water syringe in your pocket and fill it with some water from the toilet (before use, its the same water as the sink, so its safe).

Then, when at home, you can use the water pick to really flush out both the testes cup and the penis tube, I do it in the shower in the morning. Given the number of holes for air ventilation, and the ability to basically spray water anywhere inside, it cleans pretty well, while still preventing direct access.

3. FitAs mentioned previously, the belt section took quite a bit of work, I thought the cup would be hard, but the belt turned out to be even harder in some ways. But I have really improved the fit on the cup. As you can see in the previous picture (pointed out in green) the place where the cup rests on the thighs is pretty tucked in, with the scrotum chamber bulging out a bit in width. This prevents the scrotum from sneaking back and getting pinched as it is effectively cupped from all sides, not just the front. Here are some close up shots:https://i.imgur.com/ET7qDYl.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/JulvI6C.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/ICxduPH.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/A5AQlGK.jpg

The cool thing about this is not only does it contain the scrotum very well (and thus eliminate pinching) it also makes the area resting on the thighs much thinner than any belt I've seen previously. As a result, there is no chafing when doing physical activity. Thus far, I have played several rounds of ping pong, and jogged a few miles without any significant problems. I did get some soreness after the jog, due to the pressure, but no rubbing or chafing. And some aspirin took care of that. I suspect that after a few weeks, the soreness shouldn't happen any more.

Some problems still to solve include:1. Skin sticking to the cables for the back passage. This is especially problematic around the anus as there is some soft skin there that will get stuck on the cables. It doesn't really pinch, but it does rub a bit. I have solved this with some padding that I remove when I need to defecate, but the padding smells bad after a while (for obvious reasons) and needs to be replaced often. Also, I can do without the padding 99% of the time, but occasionally when exercising, something will get stuck. I am not sure the best way to solve this. Perhaps just waiting for the skin to toughen a bit will help, or perhaps I will need to figure out a better padding method.

2.The lock. For reference, this is it:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CS ... UTF8&psc=1It works fine, and keeps the belt secure, and it is pretty rugged and not prone to easy breaking. It also hides pretty well under clothes as it fits in the gap between the cup and the waist that is naturally made by clothes. It is also high enough that the ends don't get in the way of my legs when doing activities. But it isn't exactly low profile. I have looked at various options, but I haven't found a great replacement yet.

3. Final material. Right now, all my prototypes are in ABS (lego plastic) as it is easy and cheap to print, and also sands and cleans up well, thus minimizing the work I need to do to make a prototype. But the easy sand-ability also makes it prone to wear out over the long term (you can already see some marks). It also isn't great chemical (urine/sweat) resistant over the long term. I have some chemical resistant, much stronger, more rugged, abrasion resistant, food grade nylon available that I am going to make the final cup out of. But that is going to be a very difficult process to sand it smooth due to the fact that it is abrasion resistant. I need to figure out a good way to do that, especially inside the penis tube where I need the most smoothness, but can't use a belt sander.

Upgrades to add:1. I am planning at some point to add a hollow butt plug that locks on. I already have some plans for how to hook it up for an enema, and how to inject lube evenly. But I don't know if I want to make it something that slides on the cables, or replaces the cables. Nor am I sure if I want to make it independently attachable, which would require another lock, which is actually very difficult given the limited space.

2. E-stim system. I already have an E-stim butt plug, that can be fun. And I can see a way to install the pads inside the penis tube. There is also conductive filament I could print with that would allow me to integrate the pads wherever I want. I also have the area above the penis tube, and below the lock (which I could easily make larger by moving the lock up a bit) to fit the electronics and battery. But that's a bit of work, and I am wary of locking myself into a device that could malfunction and fry my very sensitive bits. But that would require a fancier printer than I have to print the conductive material. I am thinking I might just have the pads available, to hook up to, but have the electronics and battery attach separately (say, sitting in pocket) so they can be removed if problems occur.

3. Better lock at some point, I think. Something maybe a bit lower profile would be nice, but not required for my uses.

4. Non-metal version. The belt is all plastic except for the rear cable and lock. I could replace the lock with a plain nylon bolt that needs to be cut in order to be removed, but the cable is a bit trickier. They make nylon cable, but most of it isn't coated. I was thinking about getting some PTFE tubing (used for filament guidance on printers) and running some nylon cable inside that. But then I need to worry about load sharing, which... well... for engineering reasons is complicated. But that might help with my sticking problem too.

So, that's where I am. I finally have a working, locking, functional, wearable prototype that can be worn at least for a 3 days (longest test). But that included cleaning, bathing, bathroom, sleep, etc. So I think it could go longer if needed. It isn't fully complete. I am still futzing with better air hole placement, slight changes in fit, and other improvements, but it works.

So, to the question I have received repeatedly: Will I be making and selling these for other people?

I have definitely considered it. But the problem I have right now is simply the time taken to make one. My current design is the result of dozens of failed attempts, and I am not done yet. If I have to print a dozen attempts per person, that's not really practical. Now, I shouldn't need that many attempts as I have figured out a lot of what not to do, but I still don't have a full proof method of converting a scan to a print without doing some guess/check/rework. As I said before, the difference between fine and unusable for me is about 3 mm (1/8 inch). Even with an in person scan, some stuff like the exact placement of the penis tube and getting the exact length on the rear cable will be hard on the first attempt. This may be less of an issue for other people as I am probably a worst case scenario (again, no fat). But getting a bespoke made device perfect on the first go isn't possible for me yet.

Also, the production is difficult. I have a fairly high end printer, but it still can't make perfect prints and a lot of sanding and touch up work is required. It is probably about 3 hours of sanding/prep work for a prototype attempt, and probably 10+ hours to post process a final design. I can do that for myself, but that doesn't exactly scale well to mass production. These can be printed by professional places like shapeways. They quote me about 150$ for the cup, 45$ for each waist belt, and 15$ for the back, so 275$ when you include tax/shipping/etc. Probably more for the belts if people aren't as skinny as I am. Which isn't unreasonable compared to something like this: https://www.my-steel.de/shop/product_in ... 8ce8d16ed3

But while those might be nicer finish, and require less sanding by me, they still need sanding (or sand blasting, which I don't have the equipment for), and aren't food grade plastic. But then again, every other 3d printed chastity cage uses them, like evolution wearables. So, yeah maybe it's fine? I would feel better if I could find a good food grade coating/epoxy to apply.

So, long story short. I have thought about it, but the time, and cost involved to make one means that even charging a rate comparable to other high end belts (i.e. the untouchable one), I would be making a relatively low hourly rate (compared to what I could make as an engineer). I could upgrade my machine, get better sanding tools, and work on making algorithms to reduce the rework/error, but that only makes sense time wise if I am going to be doing these a lot (like 20+ belts), which then turns it from a hobby into a part time job, and I a don't know if I want this to be my job. It could work if I find somebody willing to do the manual labor (i.e. printing, sanding, cleaning, assembling) so that I only need to do the computer work, but that again requires a sizable amount in order to justify hiring a contractor.

So, yeah. I will let you know how the upgrades and finished design work. And maybe if the stars align I will have a kickstarter to see how much interest there is and if there is enough it might be worth me hiring somebody to do the manual labor, while I stick to the scanning and design.

Also asked, can I make a female version?I could probably make a female version. That may actually be easier as I wouldn't need to worry about placing the penis tube or cup properly, but there are probably other issues with the fit which I am completely unaware of (not being female or having a female assistant). But in theory it seems simpler? I would have to figure out a lower profile lock though. My current version works fine for men as it sits in a naturally hidden spot between the belt and the bulge. But women tend not to have that gap. Also, my rear cable attachment needs about 12mm (half inch) to work. Fine for a guy, maybe not for a woman. So, I would have to look at redesigning that, which would get complicated. I could go as low as 7-8mm thickness, but that's about it given my current design method and materials available.