Europe's best-kept beer secret?

A flood of industrial lager has swept away the native beer
traditions of just about every country in Europe except, famously, for
the Czech Republic, Germany, Belgium, and the UK. Oh, and, it turns
out, Lithuania. If you haven't heard about Lithuanian beer traditions,
don't worry, because nobody else has, either.

Other countries in Northern Europe also kept a native homebrewing
tradition, as I
wrote recently, but in these countries it is either hard or
impossible to buy traditional beers. In Lithuania, however, the native
beer is brewed commercially and available in a number of bars and
shops. For anyone interested in actually trying it, that makes an
enormous difference, because you can just buy a bottle without having
to find and befriend a brewer first.

To make myself perfectly clear I should add that these are not the
kind of craft brewers you find all over the world these days, making
porters, doppelbocks, and IPAs. These people are brewing a style (or
perhaps styles) I would call Lithuanian farmhouse ale.

Salaus alus

From Per Kølster's excellent book I gathered that brewing your own
beer has never stopped being common in the Lithuanian countryside.
Apparently, most brewers have their own yeast, which they keep in the
well. It seems to be common to share it with your neighbours when they
are in need, so to what extent it's possible to distinguish yeast
strains is not clear. They also grow their own hops, according to both
the book and locals, but what varietal (or varietals) I don't know.
Even the malts are Lithuanian-grown, so this truly is a local product.

As you can tell, I haven't been able to find a lot of precise
information on these beers. The reason is that I didn't meet a single
person who knew about them who spoke fluent English, so extracting
information was difficult, to put it mildly. And searching the web has
so far yielded nothing useful.

In Lithuanian, this style of beer is known as "kaimiškas
alus", meaning "village beer". It can be "šviesus", meaning
pale, or "tamsus", meaning dark. Sometimes it's even "juodas", meaning
black. Some are "filtruotas", lightly filtered, while most are
"nefiltruotas", much less filtered. As I guess you've gathered by now,
we are not talking about 2-3 beers here. RateBeer lists dozens of
traditional Lithuanian beers, but in a few days I found at least 10
new ones, so clearly the true number is quite high.

I thought kaimiškas was a single style, but the beers are
surprisingly varied. Some of the pale ones are fairly bitter and
dominated by a dusty strawy taste, like being dropped face first into
a bale of hay that's baked in the sun all day. Lithuanian beers
appear to use lots of hops, and I suspect this is the aroma of the
local hops. These beers have no trace of yeast character,
surprisingly, but other beers are dominated by it. One tasted like a
mild gueuze, another like a Belgian tripel, and a third was most of
all like a Finnish sahti with a good dose of hops.

One I really liked
was Jovaru
Alus, at 5.6%. It was hazy and amber-coloured, and tasted of
fruity walnuts and alcohol with herbal hoppy notes. It was both sweet
and bitter at the same time, and a lot more harmonic than it
sounds. I found it almost scarily drinkable. A more straightforward
pale kaimiškas was
Salaus
alus at 5%. It was hazy and yellow with a huge white head, and
tasted strongly of earthy peppery dusty straw. That taste was so
incredibly vivid and clear I can still remember it fairly exactly.
There was some sweetness, but mostly this was a bitter beer, with a
long aftertaste that stayed in the mouth after I'd left the bar.

There is quite a lot to explore here, and since I've found no
evidence of named styles, mostly one simply has to try beers at random
to see what they are like. I really liked most of the ones I tried,
and they were certainly a lot more interesting that the variations on
industrial pale lager that are all most countries have to offer.

In Vilnius kaimiškas is actually quite easy to find, since
there are several bars specializing in these beers. But that is a
subject for another posting.

I have to admit that I didn't read this post, but I like the "Vilnius business district at night" image very much. Well done! :)

thebeertourist - 2010-10-08 17:13:30

Excellent as always! Makes me want to sneak in a Vilnius weekend!

Lars Marius - 2010-10-08 17:21:03

Thank you, mr. Tourist. :) I would recommend staying longer than just a weekend, if you can. There's more than enough to see and do, and it would take more than a week to get through all the different beers.

Thanks for the post and greetings from Lithuania! By the way I was directed to your blog by German enthusiasts during a lambic festival in Belgian countryiside...

Interesting to read a foreigners perspective. I can confirm that craft beer scene in Lithuania is alive and kicking even though the future didn't seem bright just a few years ago, when the small brewers were closing one after another. It took a countryboy Valentas who started his two Šnekutis pubs in the capital serving exclusively "countryside" beers, and the trend soon followed with a bang. Those new pubs alone allowed a number of small brewers to survive.

I can highly recommend visiting North Lithuania which is traditionally a Beer Country - but prepare for adventures and take a translator with you. You can also write me (tikrasalus@gmail.com) and I would gladly share some information on Lithuanian beer scene.

Oh and speaking about the ingredients... from what I gather, some of the yeast being used is family yeast (say, Čias beers), some harvested wild (say, in Senolių, Morkūno), baking yeast is also sometimes used. It's quite often that smaller brewers would borrow fresh lager yeast from a bigger brewery.

As for hops, in traditional homebrewing both wild and somewhat "domesticated" hops (the ones that have been climbing the fence or house wall for generations) were used. Polish Marynka, which grows very well, is also being grown lately. The word goes that one microbrewery has its own hop farm and brews with its own hops, even if it's true, it's a sole case.

Some commercial microbrewers use noble German and Czech hops. E.g. your Salaus beer was most probably brewed with Perle or Hallertauer (saw the package at Kupikio brewery). Intriguingly, genuine yet totally obscure Lithuanian hop varieties such as Fredos Taurieji, Fredos Kartieji, Kauno Graieji - which were selectioned during both interwar and Soviet times by enthusiast academics, were dropped since Lithuania entered EU.

Lars Marius - 2011-08-31 01:42:32

Hi Ramtyns, and thank you very much for all this information. You've just raised the quality of this blog post substantially. :-)

I'd love to make another visit to Lithuania, and a trip to the north, but whether work, wife, and children will allow it remains to be seen.

Also, I really hope the Lithuanian hops come back. I imagine there could be a market for it, given how craft brewers the world over keep searching for new hops, and how hop varieties suddenly come into fashion (Simcoe, Nelson Sauvin, Citra, ...).

Lars, it's my pleasure to share this with you and your blog readers. We have a few beer enthusiast clubs here in Lithuania, when you arrive next time just give me a shout and I can ask if somebody would like to accompany you to the pub and tell more details.

As for Lithuanian hop comeback, I believe exactly the same what you said and I know there are some efforts towards this already.

Lars Marius - 2011-08-31 07:14:18

@Ramtyns: Wow. It's clear I need to make another trip. I'll let you know if I manage. :-)