We said a fond farewell to Katharina and Erko and other members of the household, both permanent and temporary. Our destination was Tartu, but we wanted to detour to a waterfall not far away first.

The Baltics are amazingly flat. I think the highest peak is just about 320m. The map marks anything over 90m, which just goes to show. Most rivers flow so slowly across these slopeless plains, that many national parks are lakes and wetlands.

Consequently, it is fairly amazing that the river Jagala actually has an 8m drop in its limestone bed. The water thunders down, brown and churned, with white, foamy spray. You can see rainbows in the spray, which is kind of cool.

The waterfall is unsignposted, and maybe half a dozen other people had managed to find it while we were there. Given its reclusive spot, we wondered how many other English people have seen it. Not all that many, I'd guess, despite it being less than 20 miles from Tallinn.

At this point, Eartha's front tooth fell out and she lisped for the rest of the day.