Motor Rebuild

My 2000 Heritage TC 88 b failed due to rear camshaft bearing race failure.
I am going to get it rebuilt. Was thinking about putting in gear drive for the oil pump and camshafts to eliminate those tensioners. How noisy is the gear drive and how expensive? I will probably have to change cams and oil pump anyway in my rebuild. There probably shot. Any other upgrades come to mind to eliminate problems in the future. My budget is limited due to two kids in college, but I don't want to go through this again. Any comment greatly appreciated.
Thanks

If this follows the same path as other gear drive vs. hydraulic tensioners, you will get quite a response. I chose the gear drive and have had no problems with noise and the andrews cams and V&H headers with Python duels are working great for me.

My 2000 Heritage TC 88 b failed due to rear camshaft bearing race failure.
I am going to get it rebuilt. Was thinking about putting in gear drive for the oil pump and camshafts to eliminate those tensioners. How noisy is the gear drive and how expensive? I will probably have to change cams and oil pump anyway in my rebuild. There probably shot. Any other upgrades come to mind to eliminate problems in the future. My budget is limited due to two kids in college, but I don't want to go through this again. Any comment greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Animal

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Are you speaking about the whole engine or just the oil pump and cam area stuff? If you didn't damage the engine itself, just go with all the cam stuff unless you feel the need to make everything new and are willing to spend the cash for that.

When the bearing failed, You NEED to completely Clean out the oil system... When HD Fixed the blown bearing problem, they replaced all the bearings in the cam chest and cams oil pump and chains along with removal of the oil tank.... CLEANING is Very important...

On my 2000, I went with gear drives SS570,head work, delkron cam plate,feuling oil pump, and piston bored to 95" high compression.. ALL Big $$$$ items..

You say you are Limited to the $$ amount..

Go with the KIT. It is 429$ and give you Most parts you will need. IF bought separately you'd be back to high $$$$...

You could go with Cams upgrade as long as they DO need to be replaced anyway... New lifter needed also.

Go the kit and do the hydraulic tensioner system...

Just the best way in MY book for all the new parts you need to replace.(.)

when done here going that way,,,, You will have an updated bike that should give you many more trouble free miles...

But have the runout measured at the pinion shaft to make sure. If you have much, it will impact the gear-drive more than the roller chain conversion set-up. Remember to follow the instructions on backlash and use the appropriate size gears. Check here:

Screamin" Eagle KIT # 25284-08 for 429.95 ....
Fits and converts 1999/2006 TC over to hydraulic style tensioner.... A LOT of parts for the $$$$ .. Separately bought, Just the oil pump or the cam plate, would almost eat up that much by their selves would be much more than the Kit..

Some of what you get in the kit:
Oil pump- high volume
Billet cam support plate(good one)
chain gears and all the Hydraulic tensioner that fit it...

If I had the KIT available back when I went to gear drive, I would of gone with it.. That is a lot of parts for the LOW 429.$$

I would buy the oil pump and the cam plate for that price EVEN if i went to gear drive!!!!!

The high volume Feuling oil pump is more by it's self than the KIT and the delkron cam plate another 3 hundred +..

Take Bubbies advice. At 18,000 miles I'm currently having the up grade done on mine. Going with the 429.00 kit plus the torrington cam bearings. I asked about putting in the cam gears. The cost was more than I wanted to spend at this time (aprox. 750.00). Nothing major wrong with the bike. It started making a new niose in that area. After reading about so many problems with the cambearings I wanted to be ahead of the bearing failure.

Bob Wood(Wood Performance Carburetors - High Performance Harley Carbs and Cams) offers a TRUE roller-link conversion(both sides of the plate are roller link)with and up-graded pump.
At that point a Wood TW-6 cam set, and if boring is needed at the point of rebuild, after all that hardened steel flew threw the engine, then bore to 98", and set compression at 10.25cr.
Those 2 items I made mention of will snap that bike to attention!!!!!!
Scott