Here I go again, and yes I did a search and it confused me. Allright so I need to bleed the brakes on my '50 but I'm not quite sure how. I always thought that I had to start with the bleeder screw furthest away from the master cylinder and work my way towards the closest one. But then in a search I read that you bleed brakes front to back, not back to front the wheel cyinder furthest away from the MC is the back right one, then back left one, then front right one, then front left one. Is that how I do it? Or what does "front to back" mean then?
Now I have my bleeder screw tight open it. I get my dad to push down on the brake pedal right? Should he push it all the way to the bottom? Thats what I thought, but the search I made said that it should only be pushed down as far as you would with regular driving Now how long do I wait before tightening the screw again, until there is no fluids coming out anymore? Then I tighten it and release pedal AFTER tightening right? Repead procedure on all 4 brakes and fill up the MC with new brake fluid.

Glad to see you have done your homework. Now, the correct way to bleed your brakes is........

All of the methods will work. Going to the farthest one or doing the front first are based on SINGLE or DUAL master cylinders.

The bottom line is, have someone push the pedal.
Open the bleeder, when the fluid stops, close the bleeder, release the pedal. Repeat until NO air comes out. Move to the next wheel. Do all 4 even if you only did a front or back job.

There are ONE MAN bleeders that do OK. There is a tool called a MYTI VAC that will allow you to suck the fluid out of the bleeder, thus removing the air. A fancy one man bleeder.

I bleed the caliper/cylinder I just replaced until I get clean, clear fluid. Then I do each wheel. After all are done, I double check each wheel. I usually double check again in a day or two. I am anal about brakes as they are the single most important system on your vehicle. I also use Valvoline ABS Brake Fluid that exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specs. I figure me and my family are worth the extra $$$.

all that is correct .
if you master is old you don't want to normally push the pedal more that normal sometimes you can mess it up

my two person system is
pump... slowly
pump... slowly
pump ...slowly
bleed
3 sets of 3 for each wheel starting from furthest from the master.

also be aware of the gravity bleed;
simply fill the master and crack open the bleeder and let it run for a little while .with the cap off.
most systems will gravity bleed this will also tell you that ya dont have a swelled brake hose or a smashed or kinked pipe
PAY ATTENTION not to let you master run dry either way you choose

I have the might vac too its the cats meow reclaims the old fluid and dosen't make a mess especially if you have painted stuff around worth the investment

P S brake fluid wears out (get dirty) too so if you periodically bleed your system every year or two it will prolong the system

Everybody has given you great info, I'll just try to clarify it for you.
I always start at the wheel cylinder the farthest away from the master cylinder. Open the master cylinder, fill with brake fluid, close master cylinder. With the bleeder screw closed, have partner "pump the brake peddle until the peddle doesn't go all the way down. Tell them to hold the pressure on the peddle, and slowly open the bleeder screw. When all the fluid and air has run out of the bleeder screw, tighten the bleeder screw, then tell your partner to let off the peddle. Repeat this process until nothing but fluid comes out. When done, go to the next wheel cylinder. The important things are, always make sure there is fluid in the master cylinder, do not open the bleeder screw until your partner has firm pressure in the peddle, tell your partner not to let off the peddle until you have tightened the bleeder screw. Once you get the rhythm, it goes fast.
Hope this helps.

Wow gotta love Hr.com so much knowledgeable people that are always willing to help. Thanks guys!
It all makes sense now, I'll do it in the afternoon today with my pops if he's in the mood for it.
But I do have one last question. Can I leave the master cylinder open during this process and just quickly go and add more fluid, or do I always close it again after pouring in new fluid?

Just for the record, you can buy check valve bleed screws that will allow fluid out and no air in. They are made by Russell Products and I got mine at Sumitt Racing. It allows you to bleed brakes by yourself. . . DAVE

By the highest quality synthetic fluid you can find IMO. No fooling around with brakes or the components that run them.

Autozone also carries the 1-man bleeder valves. You can use the vacuum system with them as well (as that sucking the fluid out rather than using pressure to force it out like the pedal pumping does). Like was said, its basically a check valve. Only allows fluid in one direction.

To fill the system is pretty much the same as bleeding it. Only your going to need a lot more fluid . Id try and fabricate some sort of gravity feed for your main resevoir so you dont have to keep getting up and filling every few seconds while bleeding.

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