Take my hand and let’s wander through Marui One (Young) Shinjuku, the one-stop “depaato” for all your Gothic Lolita Punk shopping needs. The Tokyo mecca isn’t hard to find if you take the East Exit of Shinjuku Station, walk slightly right and straight ahead, and look out for the red 0101 sign. When I visited last week, the giant columns held Individual Fashion Expo posters. Marui was collaborating with Visual Kei band Dolly, hence the big faces on the wall.

I put my nose to the store window and basked in the aura of these Gothic Lolita dresses. They’re by Alice and the Pirates (a shoot-off label of Baby the Stars Shine Bright). I was delighted by the the nautical patterns and black lace jabot.

Floors 1-4 of Marui holds non-alternative young women’s clothing. B1 is athletic wear and B2 is a Jesus Diamante hime-gyaru boudoir. (It’s worth a peek; the clerks are exaggerated Valley of the Dolls starlets with giant chrysanthemums in their up-dos.) The Goth Loli Punk action begins on the fifth level with a display of Dolly’s stage outfits. Velvet, gauze, lace, pearls, feathers, flowers… no wonder Marui put up a “Don’t Touch” sign! This floor was the hardest to photograph on the sly, but I’ll make up for it on the upper levels. Next to the Dolly display, there is a station for kawaii charms, stationery, cell phone trinkets, and other little bits of happiness – such as Maximilian Alice teacups. Further down, there is a small Jane Marple alcove. Moi-même-Moitié’s dark, stony lair was by far the most theatrical. Crumbling crucifixes draped with black roses and back-lit with blue light… and the changing room is an upright black coffin! (You can peek at MMM in my video tour.)

There was a long rack of h.NAOTO purses and hats, which gave me some DIY decorating ideas. The Hangry and Angry plush toys seemed ready to jump down and attack (top). Alice Auaa’s nook is no more, but her tortured head sculptures and Victorian mourning paintings remain (bottom). Behind, you can glimpse Excentrique; I was impressed by the quality of the brand’s corsets and silver jewelry.

I tried on two h.NAOTO dresses but bought neither (each is about $170). Hirooka Naoto’s collections are always masterfully cohesive; note how he uses the same material and skirt shape but varies the prints, colors, and details.

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