Stringing crosses - 2 clamps or 1?

This is dumb question, but do you guys use 1 or 2 clamps while stringing crosses?

I ask because a single clamp will very slightly move when I clamp-off and remove tension. If I then pull the next cross and clamp off with Clamp #2 with Clamp #1 also still clamped-down, wouldn't I effectively be locking in the slight movement of Clamp #1 -- and therefore locking in a slightly lower tension than desired?

Instead, I've been pulling Cross 1, clamping with Clamp 1. Then I pull Cross 2, RELEASE Clamp 1 (there's nothing but the tension arm holding the string at this point), then clamp Cross 2 with Clamp 2, etc..... I then add 5-10% on the last pull to account for the tie-off knot.

Yet in a quick survey of YouTube videos I didn't see anyone with the "single clamp cross" method I described.... And thought I should ask if I've been doing things wrong for years.

I preweave the 2nd cross then leave enough string to put in my tension head while using a starting clamp outside the frame. I then tension these two crosses and clamp off with a flying clamp. I then do 4 crosses or so while double pulling. After I get my 2nd flying clamp on the other side on the frame I pull tension on the string of the staring clamp. I remove the starting clamp then release tension and knot off. From here I just use one flying clamp. (two peice by the way)

It all depends on the clamps you're using and your string method. Wen doing mains always use two one per side. When doing crosses top down you can use one clamp if you use a starting clamp and have flying clamps or a glide bar clamp that will service each side. If you are doing a two piece 50/50 you must have two clamps for crosses.

You use a single clamp for mains right? It is the same idea for crosses. You certainly can use two clamps, but I don't think there is an advantage of using two clamps over one clamp.

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Yep - 1 clamp on each side of for the mains, 2 clamps simultaneously.

Just asking mainly due to seeing video after video on YouTube of 2 clamps being used simultaneously on crosses all the way to the end. Seems like such a method inherently locks in lower than a desired target tension on crosses. A 1/8th inch of flex X 19-20 crosses is over 2" less string pulled than desired...

I nearly always do a 2 piece job. On crosses, I just use a bulky starting knot -- then start down the frame one cross at a time, only clamping one cross at a time, until then end, then adding a few pounds and tying off...

I use a single clamp for my crosses. I string 1 ahead for as long as I can. Never had any issues, but then again I have good Stringway aluminum clamps. If you're using the basic Gamma clamps that come with their entry level machines, it may be better to upgrade to better clamps.

no, when you tension the next cross it pulls the "drawback" back out of the prior clamp, for the most part...

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I think the OP is probably thing inking about flying clamps. With the distortion of the strings if you remove the clamp and move it only using a single clamp and straightening the strings each time you can also get that distortion out.

If using glide bar clamps (short bar only) then you're correct. If you have a long glide bar clamp for the crosses then you must use one clamp unless you are doing a 50/50 like the mains.

I think the OP is probably thing inking about flying clamps. With the distortion of the strings if you remove the clamp and move it only using a single clamp and straightening the strings each time you can also get that distortion out.

If using glide bar clamps (short bar only) then you're correct. If you have a long glide bar clamp for the crosses then you must use one clamp unless you are doing a 50/50 like the mains.

It all depends on the stringer, clamps, and method of stringing.

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Sorry I wasn't more specific. I was using fixed swivel clamps -- Gamma Progression II 602FC... The string isn't slipping, but the clamp itself very slightly flexing back when the tension bar is released. The "flexing back" is very small, maybe 1/8" at most.

Sorry I wasn't more specific. I was using fixed swivel clamps -- Gamma Progression II 602FC... The string isn't slipping, but the clamp itself very slightly flexing back when the tension bar is released. The "flexing back" is very small, maybe 1/8" at most.

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yeah, I would use two clamps. how do you reach each side of the frame with one clamp anyhow? maybe you mean you only use one at a time?

If you watch, when you tension the next string, that 1/8" drawback should be pulled back the other way, toward the tensioner.

If you're using flying clamp you are doing it wrong. You can't hold tension on one string with a fling clamp like you say you start.

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dude, read the thread!!!!!

edit: Irvin, no offense sir, but sometimes it's as if you only respond to the very last post without reading
the rest of the thread and REALIZING you've already chimed in, been responded to, questions asked and answered.

Tiger, I know exactly what you're talking about and I've thought of the very same issue. What I do is release the clamp so the only thing applying tension is the dropweight. So the answer is "1 clamp". I think it's just a negligible difference, but that's how I roll, and I've strung 50+ racquets this way now.

My problem with 1 clamp was that when you release clamp #1 (such that there are no clamps in the stringbed) the stress is transfered to the 2 mounting points at 12 and 6 oclock.

The tie-downs at 12 and 6 had to be "extra tight" (much more so than the "finger tight" that the manual recommends) -- to prevent racquet movement sideways.

This does not occur if there is always 1 active clamp in the stringbed. Tie-downs at 6 and 12 can be pretty soft -- and there will be no movement of the frame. My machine is LaserFibre 200TT ( it has no outside "crab claws" to prevent sideway movement when pulling the crosses).

Performancewise, I was not able to tell the difference between the two methods.

I just leave the clamps latched on when stringing crosses until I need to move them forward, not only does it save some time due to less clamp moveage (?) but it also offers some insurance being that you can knock the leading clamps down by accident and only have to repull ONE cross because the other clamp is there holding it, instead of knocking down the leading clamp and not having that other one back there to prevent losing tension on multiple crosses.

I'm a bit confused.
With fixed clamps you have no choice but to use two because the clamps are fixed on on side or the other.
With a glide bar you have no choice but to use one because two don't fit next to each other.
I've never used a Babolat with the single fixed clamp in the curved track.
I'm still not sure how you do mains with that. Starting clamp?

I'm a bit confused.
With fixed clamps you have no choice but to use two because the clamps are fixed on on side or the other.
With a glide bar you have no choice but to use one because two don't fit next to each other.
I've never used a Babolat with the single fixed clamp in the curved track.
I'm still not sure how you do mains with that. Starting clamp?

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Glide bar clamps are fixed. If you have short glide bars for the crosses two are required long bars one unless you are doing two piece 50/50.