hey, i just have a quick question for everyone...do i need to worry about detuning my new never summer board? the guy at the shop where i bought it from said that i didn't as never summer boards come from the factory all ready to ride...my cousin on the other hand said that you should always detune a board when you get a new one. i rode it for a few runs the other day, and i did catch a few edges, but i'm not sure if it was because of that, the fact that this board is a drastic size change from my old one, or because i didnt have my bindings positioned where i should have had them and had a little toe drag.

thanks for your help :D

SummitAtSnoq

12-21-2010 09:00 AM

Detuning a board is usually done for stomping boxes and rails. If you're catching edges on a NS it's less about the board's faults at the edge and more about your technique.

No assholeness intended.

Qball

12-21-2010 09:06 AM

I think NS boards come with a 0 degree base bevel, which can be very catchy. I'd suggest taking it to a shop to have them do a 1 degree bevel on the base and side edges to make it a bit more forgiving but still have a good 90 degree edge.

ashbash

12-21-2010 10:38 AM

haha yea my technique is still being worked on, and this board handles way different than the extremely cheap board i bought 8 or so years ago... not to mention i'm just getting back into this after years of not boarding. Eventually i want to start learning how to do things in the park, but i'm waiting for my cousin to come home for that, so i have a good month to relearn the basics.

thanks :D

doron

12-21-2010 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qball
(Post 345998)

I think NS boards come with a 0 degree base bevel, which can be very catchy. I'd suggest taking it to a shop to have them do a 1 degree bevel on the base and side edges to make it a bit more forgiving but still have a good 90 degree edge.

Do you have any info on this? I'm taking mine out tomorrow and have never heard of a 0 degree base on a new board.

PATKOUG

12-21-2010 05:50 PM

If you want to minimize the likelihood of getting hung-up while boardsliding/jibbing, I would definitely recommend re-beveling your board before detuning it.

Detuning refers to the dulling/rounding-off of your snowboard's sharp edges with a mill file.

As far as I know, there are two basic types of detuning.

The less drastic type of detuning is when it is done to the the area immediately before and after a snowboard's contact points--where the sidecut/effective-edge begins at one end of the board and ends at the other end of the board. I have never done this type of detuning myself, but this is my understanding of the process. In this case, the detuning is done in order to lessen the degree at which the board engages its edge(s)--how hard/quickly it starts/initiates a turn/carve. For example, someone might feel that their board is overly reactive for their liking when initiating turns. So a remedy for this condition would be to gradually detune the board's contact points until its turn initiation has been degraded to the owner/rider's liking--hence the term "detuning."

The more drastic type of detuning is when it is done to a snowboard's entire sidecut/effective-edge. Likewise, I have never done this type of detuning either, but again, my understanding of the process is as follows. Detuning like this is supposedly/apparently the type of detuning that dedicated/fanatical jib/rail-riders utilize to mimimize and (hopefully) prevent hang-ups (entirely). However, detuning to this degree severely diminishes a board's edging/turning/carving ability. I've heard (and agree in theory) that boards with Magne-Traction can be detuned like this and still edge/turn/carve decently due to the 5 additional MTX contact points.

Adjusting the beveling of your board is a completely different approach to avoiding hang-ups. I think that this is the best approach since it will decrease the likelihood of hang-ups while still maintaining maximum edge performance.

If you don't know or understand what a snowboard's beveling is, then Rome's "Board Tech/Edge Beveling" webpage has some pretty self-explanatory and straight-forward descriptions and diagrams that you should check out. Basically, Rome uses a 1*/1* base/side bevel on their all-mountain-focused boards, a 2*/2* base/side bevel on their park-focused boards, and a 3*/3* base/side bevel on their jib-focused boards. Check it out here:

I believe that the vast majority of snowboards are manufactured with a 1*/1* base/side bevel.

I would recommend increasing your board's beveling before detuning its edges and degrading its edge performance.

Bones

12-21-2010 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doron
(Post 346200)

Do you have any info on this? I'm taking mine out tomorrow and have never heard of a 0 degree base on a new board.

Yeah, it's true. All NS boards come with a 0 degree base bevel so you can bevel as much or as little as you want.

I found my SL a little catchy first time out, but that's offset a lot by the RC for non-park riding. I just put a half degree bevel to avoid the cat track/not paying attention catches.

As for being ready to go outta the box? Well, yeah. 90 sides and 0 base, and one of the better factory wax jobs I've ever had on a new board, lasted about as long as my hot wax jobs, not the normal 2-3 runs you get outta most factory waxes.

doron

12-21-2010 07:32 PM

Thanks Bones, heading to the basement for some tuning soon.

earl_je

12-24-2010 01:01 AM

funny how people detune boards just coz 'they heard' its a good thing without even understanding the need to do it..

ride it, master it, THEN detune it to your needs.

doron

12-24-2010 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by earl_je
(Post 347404)

funny how people detune boards just coz 'they heard' its a good thing without even understanding the need to do it..

ride it, master it, THEN detune it to your needs.

Would you care to elaborate on who, in this thread, you deem to be beneath your level of sophistication in these matters to elicit such a smug comment?