I am currenly using a Babolat Aeropro Gt 2010 model and plan to buy the 2013 APD. Eventhough this 2013 model is better at dampening, it is not necessarily arm friendly for what I have read on the Board. Still, it will be my racket of choice as I hit with aggresive, loopy topspin and this racket is made for that type of swing.

Also. I am thinking of buying a Volkl Organix V1 Midplus or the Volkl V1 Classic Midplus. Is there a big difference between them in tems of quality of product and dampening shots? Remember, I will possibly use it as a backup racket to "rest my arm"' unless its so good that I switch to it..
If the difference between them is just slight I would get the Classic version which I prefer cosmetically to the new one (eventhough both are nice looking). If the Organix version is much better I will go with that one eventhough its a hundred dollars more.
I can not demo by the way.

The Aero is not what you would classify as an arm friendly racquet, and people that don't like stiff racquets will always dislike it for that reason. People, like yours truly, that enjoy using stiffer racquets, find it a bit more comfortable than previous model.

Also, I concur with Chris and agree with his expertise - but I have only played with the V1 MP, it's very comfortable, and a racquet I really enjoy playing with.

The Aero is not what you would classify as an arm friendly racquet, and people that don't like stiff racquets will always dislike it for that reason. People, like yours truly, that enjoy using stiffer racquets, find it a bit more comfortable than previous model.

Also, I concur with Chris and agree with his expertise - but I have only played with the V1 MP, it's very comfortable, and a racquet I really enjoy playing with.

Siobhan, TW

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You playtested the Organix version, that is the one you are referring too?

If I were buying one, I'd go with the Classic at $99 since it is a screaming deal.

I prefer the look of the Organix version and it is a tad crisper in its feel, but the two are very close and I feel I play at the same level with either.

Chris, TW

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Both are cosmetically nice, different. The Classic multiple yellow lines in the black frame looks kind of cool, and matches better with my APDs . Thanks for responding the follow up questions as I know you have to answer multiple questions from other "posters" and address other situations in TW.

As I said, my main racket will be the 2013 Aeropro. I will use it initially in stock form.

So, being the V1 Classic a lighter racket, shall I customize it so it has the same specs as the APD or shall I leave it stock?

I ask this because eventhough the V1 is lighter, the 2013 APD swing faster because of its aero design. So, the lightness of the V1 helps it be as fast as the heavier, faster aero design. Does that make sense?

In other words, if I increase the weight of the V1 so its equal in specs to the APD that will make the V1 slower in racket speed if compared to the APD. Makes sense?

As I said, my main racket will be the 2013 Aeropro. I will use it initially in stock form.

So, being the V1 Classic a lighter racket, shall I customize it so it has the same specs as the APD or shall I leave it stock?

I ask this because eventhough the V1 is lighter, the 2013 APD swing faster because of its aero design. So, the lightness of the V1 helps it be as fast as the heavier, faster aero design. Does that make sense?

In other words, if I increase the weight of the V1 so its equal in specs to the APD that will make the V1 slower in racket speed if compared to the APD. Makes sense?

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BUMP

As I said, my main racket will be the 2013 Aeropro. I will use it initially in stock form.

So, being the V1 Classic a lighter racket, shall I customize it so it has the same specs as the APD or shall I leave it stock?

I ask this because eventhough the V1 is lighter, the 2013 APD swing faster because of its aero design. So, the lightness of the V1 helps it be as fast as the heavier, faster aero design. Does that make sense?

In other words, if I increase the weight of the V1 so its equal in specs to the APD that will make the V1 slower in racket speed if compared to the APD. Makes sense?

BUMP if I increase the weight of the V1 so its equal in specs to the APD that will make the V1 slower in racket speed if compared to the APD. Makes sense?

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It makes total sense, but is tough for me to answer. The reason is, what you feel is what you feel. What I mean is, you will have to hit them side by side and see what you feel and what you like/dislike. Try the V1 with some weight on it and see how you like it. Depending on where you add the lead, you can actually help the racquet come around. For instance, a little weight at the tip and countered at the handle can help you accelerate the racquet through contact to the point that it negates the added effort required to get it moving.

It makes total sense, but is tough for me to answer. The reason is, what you feel is what you feel. What I mean is, you will have to hit them side by side and see what you feel and what you like/dislike. Try the V1 with some weight on it and see how you like it. Depending on where you add the lead, you can actually help the racquet come around. For instance, a little weight at the tip and countered at the handle can help you accelerate the racquet through contact to the point that it negates the added effort required to get it moving.

Chris, TW

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When you say adding weight at the tip you mean at 12? Sean suggested 3 and 9. What would be the difference between adding at the tip (12) or 3 and 9? And what would be a bit of weight in terms of lead if that is what willl be used?

I suggested adding at the tip (12) which requires adding less lead tape since it will have the biggest impact. If you counter at the handle with the same amount, you are polarizing the racquet. I have found that racquets which are polarized tend to come around faster -- or at least give the feeling as such -- rather than those weighted near the throat or just in the hoop etc.

Adding weight just in front of the hand can also achieve that feel (at the top of the grip, for instance) but you do not get the benefit of the added plow through that you get from adding weight to the head of the racquet.

WHen experimenting with the lead tape, leave the backing on and stick it to the racquet with duct tape or painters tape etc. Then you can move, remove or add weight easily without damaging the lead tape. Once things feel right, take away the holding tape, peel off the backing from the lead tape and apply permanently.

I suggested adding at the tip (12) which requires adding less lead tape since it will have the biggest impact. If you counter at the handle with the same amount, you are polarizing the racquet. I have found that racquets which are polarized tend to come around faster -- or at least give the feeling as such -- rather than those weighted near the throat or just in the hoop etc.

Adding weight just in front of the hand can also achieve that feel (at the top of the grip, for instance) but you do not get the benefit of the added plow through that you get from adding weight to the head of the racquet.

WHen experimenting with the lead tape, leave the backing on and stick it to the racquet with duct tape or painters tape etc. Then you can move, remove or add weight easily without damaging the lead tape. Once things feel right, take away the holding tape, peel off the backing from the lead tape and apply permanently.

Hope that helps.
Chris, TW

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Seems not that difficult to do but I prefer to let TW customize it (in case I decide to add weight). Initially I will leave it stock and add a bit of lead if necesarry. But, i will reflect a few days over it.