'21' Club Restaurant Review

: This former speakeasy from the ’20s is still going strong, thanks to its professional service, compelling customers and choice wine list; yes it’s true, even after all this time it’s still a premier see-and-be-seen spot. Chef Sylvain Delpique's menu mixes '21' classics with his own inventions. Experience his cuisine under memorabilia, like the miniature Spruce Goose, a gift from Howard Hughes. A candlelit dinner or party can also be had in the historic wine cellar with its solid concrete and brick facade that once eluded government raiders during Prohibition. Private estate bottles from Jimmy Stewart and Richard Nixon still hug the shelves. Regardless of where you are, start your evening with a Southside, a classic '21' cocktail, similar to a mojito but mixed with gin rather than rum. The menu embraces vintage favorites restored to their original recipes, from hand-picked jumbo lump crab meat with traditional mustard sauce to creamy chicken hash with a Gruyère crust and the '21' burger, served on a brioche bun with sautéed onions. Delpique expresses himself with dishes like a tomato braised rabbit, which arrives with tortellini and morels. Desserts may include profiteroles and New York cheesecake, and the drunken strawberry shortcake for two, with baba au rum, fresh strawberries, vanilla anglaise and Sicilian pistachios. There are also prix-fixe menus available for lunch ($43) and dinner ($56, must be seated by 6:30 p.m.).