any of you engineer types know if a 1"-12 thread is sufficient to properly keep a rifle barrel in place?? Winchester uses 1"-16 threads. in not sure what formulas or calculations to use or how to do them if i had them. I think it would be fine. I also want to be able to account for the voids on some trunions that wont have threads.

looking for advice from guys who do this stuff for a living.

figure 65,000 psi chamber pressure and a .540 case head that will cover any likely magnum round down the road and giver a comfort zone on a normal round.

I see coarser threads on different rifles like the small ring Mauser etc, as well as smaller IDs on lever actions and other high power rifles. Id just like to get some thoughts on this before I sacrifice a trunion.

what is the name of the site that has all the home built guns and machine shop stuff???? Im drawing a blank. I know some of those guys deal in this stuff regularly.

Most large ring Mauser 98's are 1.1"-12 typically in a 1.400" receiver ring. This would give you a n average of .150 solid wall thickness, not including the depth of the threads. Small ring Mausers are .980"-12 in a smaller 1.300" receiver. They should have about a .160 wall plus the threads. We won't go into the large thread/small receiver or small thread/large ring variants here as they're a relative minority compared to the standard large and small ring configurations.

That said, .980"-12 should be fine for moderate sized cartridges like 250 Savage, 6.5x55mm Swede, 7x57mm Mauser and 35 Rem. This is per the "Mauser M98 & M96 How to build your favorite custom rifle" book by R.A. Walsh.

For the heavier loads you're talking about, you'll have to defer to someone more knowledgable than I.

Im thinking a barrel nut with a sleave added to it that would shroud the barrel clear to the GB and just clear the gas tube would give a nice place to put a hand guard/fore grip or could possably be the fore grip. it would also allow the barrel to float.

Im about ready to start building this. thinking of a standard style normal looking recive first to work out all the mag issues and be a proof testing gun as well then build a very custom sporter from what ive learned . the 300 savaage barrel is chambered and profiled and the dies are here to reload as well as a factory crimp die just need brass. the 260 dies are coming and that barrel is in the lathe. Ill di pictures when I can do a pictorial

Why dont you make 3 barrel units with 3 bolts. (barrel, FS, GB, RSB, and Rear Trunnion) then you could do a screw build, and undo 3 screw on each side, switch the barrel unit, and bolt out and your on to the next cal.

Why dont you make 3 barrel units with 3 bolts. (barrel, FS, GB, RSB, and Rear Trunnion) then you could do a screw build, and undo 3 screw on each side, switch the barrel unit, and bolt out and your on to the next cal.

COST Im doing at least 15 barrels for this set up. I will start out with 22-250, 243, 260 rem and 300 savage initaly. the rest is just for the hell of it.

I already have several builds that are screw builds that I swap out entire barrel assemblys. trunions are not cheap and those shallow threads are only good for so many assemplys. the cost of RSB trunions and GB alone would kill it for me. The m70 trunion is much better however except for the screw by the mag well.

the way im doing it I will only need to unscrew the barrel and each barrel will only need a GB and even that could be a clamp on and swap out. I wont need a seperate RSB and I wont need a FSB on any of these as it will be a scoped build. I may however do a barrel with a FSB for hunting in the rain or heavy snow. On my set up the RSB/optic rail will stay with the reciver and the scope can even be charted for each barrle so it wont even require sight in (hopefuly)

I just picked up a 6mm-284 reamer and 10 standard proflile 243 WIN barrels so there is going to be a bunch of differant 6mm caliburs to try.

I expect to have a 223 bolt, x39 bolt and a opened up 308 WIn diamiter bolt.

Im not sure if my sons first build is going to be as fancy as I originaly planed weight is a huge factor so this may be a more traditional build with alloy parts and super light furniture and a pencil thin 14" barrel and a very light perminate 2" muzzle break. 10 year olds are not very big so holding up a long rifle can be tough. I really only expect him to be able to carry it to a tree staand and be able to shot under 70 yards hope full much less initaly. Im going to have him practice with a light loaded 22-250 and then swith to a 300 savage for hunting. reciol is not noticed as much when shooting game.

Im thinking a full on custom high end no holds barred swicth barrel for him and me down the road. time is getting to short to reinvent the wheel. I need to get him shooting a high power rifle like he will hunt with ASAP. the season is in october.

I orderd metal for the reciver today. a normal reciver will not work as I dont want mag well bulges as Im using G3 nmages and there to wide for the bulges to clear.