Measure yourself and find the size that suits your measurements best. In case you're a mixture of numerous sizes, have no worries, you can easily switch between the sizes by shifting from one size line to another, like I showed you on the pics below.

There are many lines to choose from, so I suggest using a felt pen to emphasize the ones you need.

I strongly advise you to test the pattern and sew a muslin / toile before cutting your nice fabric. If you're sewing the view A, cut the front bodice as a single block, and transfer the seam lines to the fabric by using a felt pen or pencil. This way, you'll simplify the process and avoid sewing all the seams. Off course, do the same with back bodice panels and front and back waist yoke panels.

In case you make some changes on the muslin, transfer them all to the paper pattern.

I will show you how to make some of the usual alterations to the pattern.

The Nougat dress pattern is drafted for cup B, but with some easy alterations you can adjust the pattern to fit larger breast cups. I will show you how to alter the front bodice for the view A, but you can use the same method for the other two views. Don't forget to alter the front bodice panel for the lining as well!

Measure yourself across the bust - from the side seam, over the highest point of your bust to the other side seam - and compare that measurement with the pattern. Divide the difference between the two measurements by two. The number you've got represents the amount of alteration your bust needs.

Now back to the pattern. Draw three lines on your front bodice pattern, as shown on the picture bellow. The lines should meet at the dart apex. The blue line should connect the dart apex with the waistline, and it should be perpendicular to it. The red line should connect the side seam with the dart apex. Its endpoint on the side seam should be placed approximately 5 cm (2.5") bellow the armhole. The green line connects the armhole with the dart apex, and its endpoint on the armhole is positioned approximately on 1/3 of the armhole's curve.

Note: if you're sewing view A, you'll need to make FBA adjustments on both sides of the pattern panel. However, I will show you the process just on one side, and you can repeat the process on the other. I'd suggest making alterations on both sides simultaneously.

Also, it is much easier to perform these alterations when the pattern is cut along its edges. However, my paper curled a lot, so I thought it would be easier to handle it while its in rectangular shape.

Cut the pattern along the blue line. Shift the cut off pattern piece towards the center front, thus closing the rotated dart of the pattern. Insert a piece of paper under the pattern to close the gap your change has made.

Draw a line parallel to the the edge of the pattern piece rotated in the previous step. The distance between the pattern piece and the line should be equal to the amount of alteration you calculated at the beginning.

Cut the pattern along the green line. Spread the pattern, keeping the armhole curve continuous, and aligning the opposite side of the piece with the line drawn in the previous step. Tape the piece to the paper laying underneath.

Now cut the pattern along the red line, and spread the pattern so it aligns with the line of alteration. Tape the pattern in place. You will notice the changes disrupt the pattern, and that the inner side of the pattern is shorter than the outer. Draw a horizontal line connecting the opposite points of the diamond and cut the diamond along the line. Shift the bottom part of the pattern down, until it aligns with the waistline of the rest of the pattern. Fill the gap with a piece of paper and tape the pieces in place. Alter the diamond end points, as shown on the picture.

Finally, close the side dart and tape the panels in place. You will notice the alteration made a minor change to the overall shape of the pattern, and that the rotated dart is now wider than before the alteration.

If needed, make the corrections on spiral seams, making sure you don't shift the end point of the curves.

I will show you how I narrowed down the back bodice panels at the back, since it was a bit too wide. Basically, I just took in the back at the center back bodice, which wouldn't have been a problem if I was sewing view B or C. However, narrowing the back on a view A disrupted the center of the spiral seams.

Using a French curve, I corrected the spiral seams on the back, making sure they all met at one point. When adjusting these seams, be careful not to shift the end points on shoulder, waist and side seams.

Each pattern panel has a fabric label written on it, that indicates which fabric the panel should be cut from. The labels are in form of "Fabric A" or "Fabric B" marks, which can be confusing. So, I made additional labels on each of the pattern panels, using felt pens in two different colors - one for each of the fabrics, as shown on the pictures above. This was really helpful when cutting the fabric and sewing, since dealing with so many pattern pieces can be rather confusing.

When marking the colors, I started by labeling the skirt - dark blue for the shorter layer and light blue for the longer. Then I labeled the front and back waist yoke panels, and finally, the front and back bodice panels. I made sure the neighboring pattern panels were labeled in alternating colors.

Once the pattern is corrected, adjusted and labeled, cut the front and back bodice and waist yoke panels. It helps if you split the panels into two groups - one for each of the fabrics you'll be using.

Here's one more tip for you. Store the pattern pieces into envelops or bags to keep them organized and to prevent loosing them, since they're rather small. I used magazine bags that were just the right size for this project.