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They vary depending on the brand and the quality. Steel clad doors are available in gauges from 16 (0.0598) down to 24 (0.0239). Gauge thickness depends on the type of metal too, i.e., steel, galvanized steel, stainless steel or aluminium.

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Cutting the bottom of a steel clad door, will leave the bottom wood support, exposed to rain/snow. This will rot the wood out in a few yrs. Cutting, will tear/burr the metal edge and would have to be filed down. Now trying to run a metal cutting blade thru metal and wood, will heat the blade to a high degree and may prove to be difficult to do and cause damage.

A straight bar, is of essence when and if you do, do this. You will have to paint the bottom to protect it against the elements. I have done this, but I'm against it, because you will lose your tightness of the metal at the bottom, the heat from the blade will also heat the metal (discoloration)and can kink it a bit, which then it will not have that smooth look, plus more than likely you'll have to paint the metal, because of scorching look.

Also, watch out for kickback from your saw. 3/16", at the markings, first use the straight bar and score a deep line all the way around the bottom, then set up for cutting, this will stop most of the nicking and burrs that will happen (trick of the trades), in fact, you may be able to cut right thru the metal w/the utility knife, score it over and over again, till it makes it thru the metal, then just sand down the wood. This will leave you with a nicer job and you would only have to paint the very bottom.

There's no practicing to this, so you get one shot at it, try the utility knife first, this way you won't regret it. I hope this all makes sense to you....

Doing the sides would seem to remove the cladding on the edges, which doesn't seem good. The bottom would be problematic for the reasons that other people have listed. I don't hae any personal experience with this, so I am blowing smoke out of the arse...

But anyway, try using a clamped straightedge and use a metal cutting blade set JUST enough to cut the metal (e.g. 1/8"). After doing the cross cut, remove the leftover strip of metal and come back along the same straightedge with a wood cutting blade, set deep enough to cut the full depth of wood. Perhaps that would lead to better results, less scorching, torn up cuts, etc.

Just a thought.

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thanks for all he info, i purchased a fine 60 tooth blade for metal, set thedepth at approx.
1/8 inch and then taped the cut line with masking tape. made the test cut (bottom of door)
than i inspected the cut (cut ok but not great (had to do a little hand filing to remove burr)
i then tried my freund 40 tooth fine blade (carbide) taped bottom also and made the cut,
to my surprise the cut left no burrs and felt like a baby's bottom i removed the metal that
i cut off and reset my blade to remove waste (wood interior). i repainted bottom of door with a good oil base paint and hope it will suffice. again thanks for all the help regarding my problem, its good to know there is help just a click away