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when on auto the heat comes on and then shuts off and then the timer advances,when the heat comes back on the timer stops advancing,when on time dry the timer will advance no matter what's happening with the heat.next time send the brand name and model number so i can help you better,if it's gas you could have bad gas coils,you'll have heat for like the first 15 to 30 minutes then when the coils get hot they fail and no heat until they cool down,also if the vent line and the duct that the lint filter goes into hasn't been cleaned out the heat will shut down and if that happens the timer isn't gonna move.check that out and let me know what you find and send the brand and model number.

TH132 is a thermostat for under-floor heatingGo to the website above and download on-line copy of your manualOn-line manual let you read bigger print & lets you break down the steps easier

I am sure by the time this answer reaches you, the problem will be solvedThis is true because manuals are frustrating, until you tell somebody it can't be figured out >> which gives you time to rest >> after which the manual makes sense.

BUT I am frequently wrong, and you may be at a standstillA quick look at the manual.You can also select which part of the manual is giving you a problem and then I will help you through that specific difficulty

Wiring: I guess the instructions at bottom of manual apply to your modelYour 240Volt hot wires from breaker box connect to terminals 1 & 5Your two wires supplying power to heat connect to 2 & 4Pilot wire to terminal 3Floor sensor to 6 or 7 >> wire from sensor can connect to either poleThe TH132 has two sensors, 1 located inside the TH132, the other sensor located in floor

Set up:The first part describes 10 buttons (right away you know this is complicated)There is a brief description of both sensorsStep 1 shows how to configure the start and temp-display switches

Step 2 covers installation of module on baseI guess you hook up power at this point because the display is supposed to light upThis implies that the bottom part of manual should be located more towards the top, and the power-up directive seems to be missing. Bad manual.Step 2 shows what the display looks like with first power-up

Step 6 is programming, which carries on with about 24 stepsIf this is your problem area, let me know Now the manual suggests you make a chart of your programsOther programmable devices don't work when there is a conflict in programming

Wow I see the TH132 is 'equipped with a proportional adaptive controller..' that carries a two year warranty. I'm sure you'll rest easy knowing that.

Reply back with the specific trouble area, and we'll get it going for you.

in most cases its the defrost element as the other units last much longer unless the fan has become jammed this happens when people toss meat hard against the back wall if you know how to do polaity test using a multimeter do test on defrost element its not a thermistate as new age frezzers dont use them they use timers and plastic channels to curculate cool air

Most likely you have a bad cycle thermostat. 90% of the time this is what causes it to work in one cycle andnot the other. However, The heat contro switch, the timer and damaged wiring can also cause the problem. This is not a hard fix but will need someone with curcuit tracing ability to follow the voltage to the defective part be it a thermostat... the heat control switch or the timer itself. The burner is working so the igniter and the high limit thermostat are fine. Just a matter of isolating as stated above.

If the boiler is working fine for the rest of the house, you may want to check the thermostat for the living room or the water zone valve for the living room, you should call a heating expert to find out why living room is cold.

HI. Due to the fact that the timer is not advancing, this will lead me to believe that the timer is the culprit here. The timer is equipped with a motor. this motor, when energized, will advance the timer dial, thus, activating the unit, and progressing the cycle. If the motor is damaged, as in your case, the unit will not heat, or run correctly. Simply replacing the timer control module will correct this problem.

When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor

Defrost thermostat:During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.

Defrost timers:The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode. *Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.

Defrost heater:Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.

Most heating elements will come on and go off to the setting of the thermostat. These ratings depend on the make and model of the unit itself. If it seems to be short-cycling (going on and off very fast) then you probably have a faulty thermostat, or even a bad timer. Dont know what type of unit it is. You also may want to check the element itself. Sometimes they can break and touch each other even momentarily. Let me know if you need further information, and let me know what kind of unit it is. Good Luck!!! Jim