It may not be only wires loose; the speaker(or speakers) may be damaged.

The common 'dynamic' speaker has a centered magnet in an assembly that extends the field of the magnet around a coil of wire on a form called the 'voice coil' that is firmly attached to the cone which moves in and out to 'pump' air and produce sound.
The clearances (gap) between the magnet assembly and the voice coil that sits in a narrow space between the magnet and the outer field piece is very small and critical.

Once positioned in the factory, glue is used to keep the field assembly from slipping and rubbing against the voice coil.

A strong shock will break the glue bond and, if severe enough, clamp the voice coil so it cannot move freely any more.

Since the Bose is a quality product, the cabinet may be assembled with glue and screws that are concealed.

If you know someone with a simple multimeter, they may be able to check at the terminals to see if there is any continuity from the terminals to the speaker.
If it doesn't have any, then perhaps only a wire is broken between the terminals and the speakers.
There is with high probability also a filter inside that separates the frequency range and sends the signal to separate speakers that produce different ranges of sound.

I had the exac same issue. It started out with buzzing sound, but then quickly evolved into blowing the main 250V 5 Amp fuses immediately. I sent mine to ABTechservices.com and they found some blown resistors and leaking capacitors. I'm waiting to get it back (shipping to me now), but supposedly they have replaced and tested and all is working well. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Well, so far so good. I reinstalled the newly repaired amp and fired it up and so far, so good. Ran it through about an hour of fairly intense break-in tracks and then ran it through about 2 dozen power up and down cycles to try to get it to fail (better now than a month from now and have to fight them on backing it up).

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ZD stands for zener diode and used for exact voltage regulation. Take out a known good one and go to a repair shop to replace. Make sure that when you re install, the striped (polarity) markings are in the same direction!

You can mke one. In stores, they sell little fuse holder with a wire at each end. It should replace it if you don't know how to do it, ask a friend who knows how to fix it. It is easy to fix. Best of luck. Serge Lavallee.

I just replaced diaphragms in the tweeters in a pair of EV Sentry 200 speakers. The tweeters had 4 bolts holding them together. One of them was stuck. It's just a matter of gently but firmly twisting it back and forth until it starts coming apart. Make sure you take it apart evenly or it will bind.

Where was it sitting before it was moved? Did it have it have more ventilation and keep cooler? This sub has a powerful amplifier in it. If it got moved to an area that restricts air circulation around the sub more it is possibly overheating and causing fuses to blow. Put a fan on it and make sure it is on a hard surface or up off the carpet at least to keep the bottom side cool as well. Also when one moves a speaker it's often to put it into a more convenient area to be able to turn it up louder with less disturbance to others. This will draw more power and create more heat within the amplifier than it's previous location. If this is so keep it as cool as you can and turn it down every so often to give the amp a rest. The key here is to keep it cool as you can. One thing you never want to do is put a higher rated fuse in than the unit is rated for. Always use factory recommend fuse rating.

Those cone covers are important because they distribute the audio of the driver over a wider range. The defect will not cause further troubles nor will it get worse. Most people are capable of repairing them yourself. If you lost the old cone a replacement is necessary. You will need preferably the part number off the back of the speaker to get a replacement. Carefully measuring the diameter of the cone according to where the old glue shows it was attached will also get you the part. Just use Elmer's White glue to reattach. It get's tacky after a few minutes and the cone should sit there and dry for a few hours after replacement. Check for speaker repair parts online. You will find bunches of suppliers.

Well you shouldn't find shotty quality in M-Audio speakers short of them being built in China! If your APU doesn't hold a charge, the first thing to buy is a new battery or another APC unit. The odds of just that speaker being effected by a power surge and nothing else in your system is slim so I would lean towards the most likely problem; your friend. M-Audio speaker are quality and quality speakers are delicate to what you want them to produce. Low quality drivers will always handle higher levels of clipping or being over driven in an one particular frequency cycle. So in short, yes even a high quality pair of self powered speakers can blow themselves if told too by like, increasing the low band on the eq and playing something heavy in bass.

If they were mine, my first email would be to M-Audio (http://crm.m-audio.com/scripts/texcel/swise/clogin.dll?13&ma_na) as they will stand firmly behind there products even if they are out of warranty just as any high quality brand will do. Chris-