'Superfood'. Could there be a bigger buzzword in the world of health and wellness promises in recent years? Market analyst, Mintel, reported an enormous 202% rise globally in the number of food and drink products containing the word 'superfood'.

The popularity of these so-called wonder ingredients is no longer confined to the kitchen table. Beauty products are now supercharged with more foodie ingredients than your local health food shop, from kale and quinoa to chia seeds and spirulina, there seems to be no stopping this obsession with the good stuff. But do 'superfoods' in skincare and beauty products actually work?

"Superfoods are a range of vibrant, nutritionally-dense foods that offer so much potential, both when used internally, and topically in skincare," says Andrea Mitarotonda, Chief Scientific Officer at Neal's Yard Remedies. "For us, these ingredients deliver benefits when used at topical level, be it moisturisation, anti-oxidation or a source of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids."

Co-founder of The Organic Pharmacy, Margo Marrone, a homeopath and pharmacist, is passionate about using "pharmaceutical grade organic herbs, super foods and naturally sourced vitamins such as C and E in high percentages" to make a product stand out in terms of results.

What makes a natural 'superfood' ingredient efficacious in a beauty product?

"When using a botanical or vegetable extract, the extraction process plays a major role in determining which components are extracted and how – a bit like cooking vegetables. For example, broccoli gently steamed retains much more of its nutrients than if it is deep-fried. So not all extracts are created equal," explains Mitarotonda.

Marrone points to the importance of researching papers for the latest in clinical tests on ingredients. "The efficacy is then assessed based on historical and medicinal levels as well as the clinical trials," she says.

Cosmetic science consultant Colin Sanders is more sceptical about the promises of hero ingredients: "Only a handful of natural ingredients can get across the skin because you need just the right sized molecule for an ingredient to do anything when it gets there." According to Sanders, the only potential benefit superfoods can bring to skin is when the antioxidant properties support the body's own production of antioxidants. He explains:

"The body is continually working to prevent oxidation and does this in a number of ways, one of which is producing its own antioxidants. The best known of these is vitamin E, and a third of the vitamin E in the body is found in the skin. So adding antioxidants to the skin in theory should help the body. It's even likely natural vitamin E is a bit more efficient than synthetic vitamin E."

ADVERTISEMENT - CONTINUE READING BELOW

The type of product also matters

Skincare products come in all manner of topical forms – gels, creams, oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, etc – and this chosen delivery system as beauty formulators call it, will also dictate which active ingredient to use and how it will perform on skin.

"A well-formulated facial oil is a good way to incorporate superfoods in your skincare regime, especially if your skincare goal is delivery of nutrients and extra comfort. However, remember our skin is protected with a mixture of water and oils so there is real benefit from using a cream-moisturiser too," explains Pedro Catala, pharmacist and founder of Twelve Beauty.

Catala recommends using facial oils during the colder months but if you're looking to get skin benefits from proteins such as peptides, then a lighter texture with less oil is better. "Richer, oily products can actually stop the action of most peptides and proteins," he adds.

Sanders agrees with the use of oils: You need products that have a long contact time and spread over a wide area if they are going to do anything at all. So facial oils and masks are likely to be the best option."

Superfoods to supercharge your skin

Coconut oil

Polynesian women have been reaping the benefits of coconut oil for centuries, applied to nourish and protect skin and hair from the elements. Now this culinary and beauty multi-tasker with its unique medium chain fatty acid component, is having a moment in the spotlight as a body oil, to remove makeup or as a hair treatment. Studies have also shown virgin coconut oil to have antifungal and antimicrobial properties.

Argan oil

Thought to contain more vitamin E than olive oil, this plant oil is sourced from the kernels of the argan tree native to Morocco. Extracting the oil is labor-intensive which explains its higher price point but its richness in omega 6 and 9 make it a time-trusted skin-protector.

Chia seeds

Hailed as a wonder food in the kitchen (great soaked overnight to enjoy for breakfast) molecules from chia seeds can also be extracted for skincare. "The efficacy of an ingredient depends on what part of the food or botanical is extracted. If you extract the oil from a chia seed, you get an ingredient rich in omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids making it very regenerating for the epidermis of skin. If you extract the aqueous-gel from the chia seeds you get hydration making it works as an excellent moisturiser," explains Catala.

Avocado

Rich in vitamin E that helps to protect skin from environmental and oxidative damage as well as essential fatty acids thought to help regulate skin's natural functions. Avocado has always been a staple in DIY facemasks but now brands are bottling up its goodness. "Avocado is a very stable oil which means it doesn't go rancid easily. It has an incredible composition suitable even for sensitive skin and is highly compatible with skin's composition," says Catala.

The materials in this web site are in no way intended to replace the professional medical care, advice, diagnosis or treatment of a doctor. The web site does not have answers to all problems. Answers to specific problems may not apply to everyone. If you notice medical symptoms or feel ill, you should consult your doctor - for further information see our Terms and conditions.