I'd like to have a tire upgrade ready for when the bike gets here (monday)... Do I need to replace the tire AND the tube?Can anyone post up a link to the appropriate tubes that are compatible with the Kojaks?

I have a bike shop right around the corner from me, they'll replace my tires for $6/tire and sell cloth rim tape for $5.. I'm thinking of using them for now so i don't have to stock up on all of the bike tools. I'm thinking that I'd like to watch them do the tire upgrade so I can do it myself the next time. I always feel much more comfortable watching someone who knows what they are doing as opposed to trying to with no experience the first time..

You do not need to replace the tubes on the bike. Just the rim strips. It is wise, however, to get a spare tube or two.

I would get the basic tire changing tools-- tire irons, pump, spare tube, patches. You should learn how to do this one thing if nothing else. You will someday have a flat, usually when you do not expect it. The tire jack in my prior post is a nice addition, as well.

I'd spend a bit on a pump. I've had several over the years. Park tool ones are awful, don't get those, but the Topeak morph pumpss are an excellent small, portable pump.

Tubes need to match the ISO size of the tire, which is 406, IIRC

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"It's always darkest right before it goes completely black"

Thanks Poguemahone! I'll plan on ordering the pump and other gear next week, just wanted to have the bare essentials ready for the first ride around the neighborhood.

I know the mini Velo comes only partially assembled.. I have screwdriver set with bits and pliers in my apartment.. Will I need anything else to get the initial setup complete?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poguemahone

You do not need to replace the tubes on the bike. Just the rim strips. It is wise, however, to get a spare tube or two.

I would get the basic tire changing tools-- tire irons, pump, spare tube, patches. You should learn how to do this one thing if nothing else. You will someday have a flat, usually when you do not expect it. The tire jack in my prior post is a nice addition, as well.

I'd spend a bit on a pump. I've had several over the years. Park tool ones are awful, don't get those, but the Topeak morph pumpss are an excellent small, portable pump.

Darn... Looks like amazon is sold out of the Omega 8 in black... Anyone know where else to score one of these babies in black?

You must have the metric allen wrench set to assemble the bike. I would recommend the grease, as well-- place some grease on the seatpost and stem where they fit into the frame. This prevents the parts from seizing to the frame. It's a good idea to do this every year.

a 15mm open end wrench is nice for putting the pedals on, although some pedals take an allen wrench as well. Depending on the pedal, an adjustable crescent wrench can work just fine.

As for the pump and post, you could always order those via your local bike shop. You may have to build a relationship with them, and ordering the occasional part or tool is a nice thing to do. If they're good and see you buying stuff now and again, they will treat you well. I don't think the post is an absolute necessity right away, but I would get a decent pump-- I am assuming you don't have one, since you seem quite new to all this. The topeaks I linked to are very nice, and can be used in place of a dedicated floor pump (although they're nowhere near as nice as good floor pump) and carried about as well.

I'm a very good mechanic, and even I find it a good idea to keep up a good relationship with a bike shop. I have never used one for mechanical work, but I do pick up the occasional part, etc.. Keep in mind that I also build up a lot of bikes, so I was able to spot very quickly stuff I wanted to change out.

Really, the only upgrade you absolutely must make is the rim strips. Saddle and pedals are good ideas, too, but not 100% necessary. Then ride it a bit, and start making decisions. Have some fun on the bike before you get carried away. Even in stock form, they're fun to ride, though IMO they are an upgrade or seven waiting to happen.

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"It's always darkest right before it goes completely black"

Thanks! I just ordered up a set of the Kojaks. I'm actually going to have my local bike shop guys toss the Kojaks on and replace the rim tape, I figure, since I'm a bike noob it'd be good to watch them change the tires and give it a little tune-up. I think I'll handle swapping out the saddle myself haha.

I'm trying to find somewhere online that can ship our a Soma saddle to me for Friday but I might have to be a bit more patient on that one.

Has anyone tried out the Kojaks on wet streets?

Oh, one more last lame question... What tools are required to assemble the bike out of the box? Just want to make sure I have the minimum stuff handy.

Thanks for all of the information. My mini Velo will be here for Monday and should be retaped, regreased and Kojaks mounted and ready to ride. I'm going to work towards an all black Ninja velo, and am thinking of slowly swapping in the following:

Black Soma Ensho

Origin8 TRACKSTAR Crankset BLACK 165mm 46T Track Cranks

It states that this crankset is "ideal for single speeds".. Does this mean I should look for an alternate black crankset? I'm looking for something in the 165mm area.

It states that this crankset is "ideal for single speeds".. Does this mean I should look for an alternate black crankset? I'm looking for something in the 165mm area.

165mm is a pretty short crank for a freewheel application - how tall are you? Most mid-level cranksets will not "bend up" on you unless you're the Incredible Hulk, or if you're tossing your bike off cliffs. There's nothing wrong with the stock cranks - they're just heavy and the build quality isn't the best. Even with that, I don't foresee anybody bending them from normal riding.

Are you converting to a single speed or a 1X8 set-up? This crankset has a single chainring, so you will only have 8 speeds (as opposed to 16), and you will need to shorten the chain to get rid of the extra slack made for the links measured out to fit the stock 52T chainring.

The easiest way to upgrade the cranks would be to find a 130bcd square taper crankset and simply swap out the cranks and keep the stock chainrings. That way you can retain the front derailleur position and keep the stock gearing.

If you're not properly set up, tool wise, to assemble the bike in its basic, stock form, you probably don't have the crank remover tool required to remove the cranks arm.

A rubber mallet it NOT the tool required to remove square taper crank arms.

Thanks for the intel. As I'm probably not going to be building a bike collecting/modding a bunch of bikes anytime soon I guess this might be a quick job for the local bike shop, which is about a two minute walk from my apartment.

165mm is a pretty short crank for a freewheel application - how tall are you? Most mid-level cranksets will not "bend up" on you unless you're the Incredible Hulk, or if you're tossing your bike off cliffs. There's nothing wrong with the stock cranks - they're just heavy and the build quality isn't the best. Even with that, I don't foresee anybody bending them from normal riding.

Are you converting to a single speed or a 1X8 set-up? This crankset has a single chainring, so you will only have 8 speeds (as opposed to 16), and you will need to shorten the chain to get rid of the extra slack made for the links measured out to fit the stock 52T chainring.

The easiest way to upgrade the cranks would be to find a 130bcd square taper crankset and simply swap out the cranks and keep the stock chainrings. That way you can retain the front derailleur position and keep the stock gearing.

If you're not properly set up, tool wise, to assemble the bike in its basic, stock form, you probably don't have the crank remover tool required to remove the cranks arm.

A rubber mallet it NOT the tool required to remove square taper crank arms.

Thanks for the intel. As I'm probably not going to be building a bike collecting/modding a bunch of bikes anytime soon I guess this might be a quick job for the local bike shop, which is about a two minute walk from my apartment.

I'm 5ft 8in and weigh 140lbs.

Could you recommend a reliable crank set in black that will allow me to retain the 16 speed option on the mini velo?

I ordered the FSA Vero crankset from BikeIsland.com

It is a road compact crank in 53/39 that may require the front derailleur to be repositioned. This is the main reason why I have not installed the cable on my left Shimano brake shifter yet.

If I need to reposition the front derailleur, I might as well wait for the crankset to arrive, install it and then install the front derailleur cable.

Thanks for all of the information. My mini Velo will be here for Monday and should be retaped, regreased and Kojaks mounted and ready to ride. I'm going to work towards an all black Ninja velo, and am thinking of slowly swapping in the following:

Black Soma Ensho

Origin8 TRACKSTAR Crankset BLACK 165mm 46T Track Cranks

It states that this crankset is "ideal for single speeds".. Does this mean I should look for an alternate black crankset? I'm looking for something in the 165mm area.

Also, anyone know where I can score a black 29.2 origin8 seatpost?

The problem is that your replacement crankset only has 46 teeth. You will seriously affect your gearing;it's kind of wimpy on this bike anyhow (read prior posts,many of us have upgraded the drivetrain). You'll seriously drop your top speed down with a 46 tooth crankset. Ride it with the stock crank for a bit is my advice. Then figure out how you want to shift the gearing.

Removing a crank requires a special tool; putting one on really requires proper torque,or it won't stay on. This is either done by feel or with a torque wrench. Feel requires experience. In addition, replacing a crank usually requires replacing a bottom bracket as well (another tool); most cranks have an optimum bottom bracket spindle width, and there's no guarantee your new crank takes the same spindle width as the old. Then you might create new issues with chain length as well.

The ninja build is a fine idea, but if you are not familiar with bike mechanics, slow down. Get the bike assembled in stock form and ride it.Then start switching parts. Learn how to change a tire and fix a flat first. You need this skill. Then move to something like changing pedals or the seat and post,they're relatively simple.

There's got to be bike co-op in NYC, find it and see if they offer classes. Much of learning to wrench a bike involves visual instruction,and although we can explain some stuff here, it's really a good idea to watch skilled hands doing bike work to learn it.

Or just get a shop to do it, but that requires extra cash. Of course,so does buying tools, but then you know how to fix a bike if something goes wrong.

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"It's always darkest right before it goes completely black"

That may pose a bike fit problem that can cause a number of physical pain if it's not correct for you. If not fitted correctly, you will experience hands, feet, knees, neck and back pain

Here's a bit of advise: Before ordering any upgrade, ride the bike in stock form. You need to get the seat, stem height and seat fore/aft position in the right place to make sure it fits you. A bike is absolutely no good if it doesn't fit you properly, and stem length (the stock is 90mm) plays a huge part in that. That Origin 8 stem has a significant drop and the quill length is only 150mm. The stock quill length is 200mm for a good reason.

On the Nano, we are also looking at the stock handlebar, which has width, drop and reach variables that may or may not fit you. Also, you will need to adjust the bar "drops" position, which should be in a range that you can ride in the drops without feeling any pain in your neck or back. It should also be in a position where you're not knee'ing yourself in the chin when pedaling.

Over time, some bike fit things will change as you grow accustomed to your bike and your flexibility for a more "aggressive" position on the bike is desired.

I see a lot of people, especially on fixies, with extremely ill-fitted bikes. I see people with drops that never ride in the drops (why not just get a flat bar?), and I see frames that are too big with the seat slammed all the way to the seat tube - all bad. Again, if the bike does not fit you properly, you will run into physical pain that is very unpleasant and will make you want to get rid of your bike. I feel a lot of these poor decisions are based on looks instead of functionality (like having track drops on the street).

You often wonder how the Tour guys ride 100-150 miles a day, at race pace, for three weeks. Add in some insane time-trials. Aside from the fact that these people are world-class athletes, they have a team of professionals getting the bike fit perfect for them. Most of us don't have that, bit we do have the interwebz that has some great pointers on how to get it real close, if not spot on.

Back to the original post - a short crank arm is good for a fixed gear bike to avoid pedal strike. But on a geared, freewheel bike, you can up your crank arm length for a little more gain ratio (or "leverage").

I have been riding bikes my whole life, started as a freestyle BMX'er and now I ride everything. It has taken me years to learn how to properly wrench a bike and build my tool box which is still incomplete. I still have to research things to make sure I'm doing things right, and I still need to buy weird tools for specific applications. You don't want to ruin your new bike by stripping something or breaking a part because you don't have the right tools. You want the right application of grease AND oil lubricant in the right places.

Believe me, if not done properly, something on a budget will get expensive real fast. Please don't ask me how I know!!!

That may pose a bike fit problem that can cause a number of physical pain if it's not correct for you. If not fitted correctly, you will experience foot, knee, neck and back pain

Here's a bit of advise: Before ordering any upgrade, ride the bike in stock form. You need to get the seat, stem height and seat fore/aft position in the right place to make sure it fits you. A bike is absolutely no good if it doesn't fit you properly, and stem length (the stock is 90mm) plays a huge part in that. That Origin 8 stem has a significant drop and the quill length is only 150mm. The stock quill length is 200mm for a good reason.

On the Nano, we are also looking at the stock handlebar, which has width, drop and reach variables that may or may not fit you. Also, you will need to adjust the bar "drops" position, which should be in a range that you can ride in the drops without feeling any pain in your neck or back. It should also be in a position where you're not knee'ing yourself in the chin when pedaling.

I see a lot of people, especially on fixies, with extremely ill-fitted bikes. I see people with drops that never ride in the drops, and I see frames that are too big with the seat slammed all the way to the seat tube - all bad. Again, if the bike does not fit you properly, you will run into physical pain that is very unpleasant and will make you want to get rid of your bike.

You often wonder how the Tour guys ride 100-150 miles a day, at race pace, for three weeks. Add in some insane time-trials. Aside from the fact that these people are world-class athletes, they have a team of professionals getting the bike fit perfect for them. Most of us don't have that, bit we do have the interwebz that has some great pointers on how to get it real close, if not spot on.

Back to the original post - a short crank arm is good for a fixed gear bike to avoid pedal strike. But on a geared, freewheel bike, you can up your crank arm length for a little more gain ratio (or "leverage").

+1 to all of this. I had to,absolutely had to,rework much of the bike or it simply would not fit me. My nano is quite comfortable now, but I don't think I could have ridden it in stock form (I did for a bit), because I am taller than most riding this bike. Much taller. I had the advantage of knowing my fit parameters very very well.

Get it set up stock, ride it, and start to tweak.

Don't worry,you'll get it-- it's not overwhelming. Once you know a bit more, then start making adjustments. The nano is a blast to ride.

Several of us on this thread are long-time bike mechanics. I've built up I don't know how many hundreds of bikes, and it makes it fairly simple for me to know what I need to make a bike fit. Even then, the Nano was bit different-- it took me a little extra to get the set up right.

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"It's always darkest right before it goes completely black"

I can't believe I'm only just learning about this bike. Holy cow I want one. Why I don't know, but I just want one. So cool.

question: I ride 55-56cm frames. Will I be able to make this bike fit "ok" (not ideal, but ok for shorter rides) ?

I ride 62/3cm road frames, and I made it fit. Go back a few pages and look at my track bike. Longest ride on the Nano about 30 miles. You should be okay in stock form. You'll prolly need to do some minor tweaks.

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"It's always darkest right before it goes completely black"

Thanks for the advice everyone. Once I get the bike and toss the Kojaks and new saddle on it I'll spend a couple of weeks riding it before I start to tweak it here and there. I've been on the market for a new bike for a looong time and discovering the existence of the mini velo is most excellent. Needless to say I'm super excited to ride this baby. I figure that I only have a few handful of weeks left to ride before winter hits. i think I'll slowly mod the bike to ninja mode while there's snow on the ground.

I'll be sure to post up some photos once some modifications have been made.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RB1-luvr

I can't believe I'm only just learning about this bike. Holy cow I want one. Why I don't know, but I just want one. So cool.

question: I ride 55-56cm frames. Will I be able to make this bike fit "ok" (not ideal, but ok for shorter rides) ?