The Via Crucis in Totana, stunning sculpture set in the beautiful Sierra Espuna

A 1km walk with fabulous views alongside the Sanctuary of Santa Eulalia, Totana

This Vía Crucis is an unexpected gem, set in the verdant hillsides of the Sierra Espuña.

The road winds uphill for 1 kilometre from the picnic area of El Angél, which is opposite the earthy sanctuary of Santa Eulalia, sculptures of the stations of the cross glowing white against the pine clad rocks of the roadside, to a vast figure of Christ and glorious views out across the agricultural plains below.

It's a fabulous place to bring the visitors and show them just how lucky you are to live in Murcia, and is a calm oasis of pine scented soul food when a gentle walk uphill is a welcome tonic from the summer heat on a breezy July evening.

And to top it all off, there's a picnic area at the bottom, calling out for a seat in the shade, a good book and a crunchy sandwich to boot.

Santa Eulalia

Opposite the Vía Crucis is the Santuario de la Santa, a former religious structure which has been converted into a hotel and leisure complex. The hotel is the site of artisan fairs on a Sunday morning throughout the cooler months and is also widely used for functions and special occasions.(NB in 2017 it is closed while a new concessionary is sought). It has a beautifully painted chapel which is the home of the image of Santa Eulalia of Merida, the patron saint of Totana, who is carried down 7 kilometres into town annually in a Romeria, accompanied by thousands of locals.

Her descent and subsequent ascent via the twisting road between the sanctuary and the town is a huge event locally, and the whole area surrounding the sanctuary is filled with families and friends enjoying a convivial meal after a good walk, and participation in this annual event is an experience to be enjoyed should the opportunity present itself.

Santa Eulalia de Merida is not a "local" saint, but was brought to this area by the Order of Santiago, who took control of the area in 1257 after the Kingdom of Murcia was taken from the Moors by the Kingdom of Castilla y León.

This area had been in the hands of the Moors for more than 500 years and had formed part of the Moorish Kingdom of Tudmir.

Slowly the Christian Kingdoms of northern Spain retook the territories lost and in 1243 the Treaty of Alcaraz was signed, cementing the Reconquista of the Kingdom of Murcia by Prince Alfonso (later Alfonso X “El Sabio”) of Castilla. Alfonso named his brother Manuel as governor of the area before placing both Aledo and Totana in the hands of the Order of Santiago in 1257, and from that point onwards it was the Order who appointed the “concejiles” (Mayors) and ecclesiastical authorities.

Santa Eulalia was the patron saint of the order of Santiago and a small centre of worship was established in this location, although at this point in time the fortress of Aledo was significatly more important as this area lay on the border with the last remaining Nazrid Kingdom of Granada and was subject to frequent incursions from across the border. The Torre de Homenaje and Mediaeval walls can still be seen today close by in Aledo.

Santa Eulalia is the patron of the ill and many miracles pertaining to healing, and cripples are attributed to her intervention.

She was martyred at the age of twelve, suffering horrendous torture at the hands of the Romans, after refusing to make offerings to the Roman gods.

She was literally torn to pieces by her executioners, who ripped her body with iron hooks, cutting off her breasts and burning her flesh until she suffocated from the smoke. At the moment of her death a white dove is said to have emerged from her mouth and snow fell out of nowhere to cover her body.

Her cult virtually died out in the 14th century, but by the 16th century a more substantial building had been erected in Totana and the current building continued to evolve until the present day.

The Vía Crucis

The words Via Crucis mean way of the cross, and represent the principal moments experienced by Jesus during the last days of his life, crucifixion and subsequent resurrection.

There are Via Crucis throughout Spain, often to be found as tiled plaques or crosses on the wall of village houses, or very occasionally, in sculptural form as in this particular case. During Lent, it is customary to follow the route of the Via Crucis, stopping at each point for a biblical reading, a prayer, a lesson, or a song. In Murcia the Via Crucis is followed each Wednesday morning at 6am, in the breaking light of dawn, in Cartagena, enormous gilded tronos, each carried by 100 people sway through the streets bearing Jesus and Mary, resplendent in a sea of flowers, in Moratalla the Via Crucis is celebrated with a theatrical journey through the stations of the cross, culminating in the hair-raising crucifixion in the church square, complete with thunder and lightning, whilst in Lorca, dozens of robed penitents walk the route barefoot, carrying wooden crosses.

This sculptural Via Crucis was built in 1965, by Don Juan Jose Noguera, who was the priest at the church in the sanctuary and comprises 14 pieces by Murcian sculptor Anastasio Martinez Valcárcel, including the monumental Sagrado Corazon de Jesus which at 9 metres in height, dominates the surrounding countryside.

This is a stunning collection of curvaceous, sensual and elegant pieces, portraying the emotional story of the last days of Christ, set in the natural surroundings of the Sierra Espuña.

Although they were created in the 1960's, the works are fresh and contemporary and in spite of the marked contrast with the rocks and pines of the hillside, are at one with nature, their flowing lines complementing the smooth rocks and twisting roots, flowers and mosses which immerse them, rising from the foliage to project their message, then disappearing back into the landscape as the onlooker continues on the same journey followed by Christ in the last week of his life.

At the last station visitors stop off to absorb the countryside spread beneath their feet and contemplate the sorrow of those who loved him beneath a shaded outcrop of gnarled pine roots, before turning to witness the glory of the resurrection as an immense white figure of Christ resurrected punches through the bright blue skyline.

Religion or not, it's an uplifting experience to see such beautiful pieces in an open-air setting and drink in the air as you walk.

Those walking this Vía Crucis could park in the Angel car-park and barbecue area at the bottom and walk approximately one kilometre up the hill, or persuade the car driver to leave the passengers at the top so they can have the luxury of only having to walk down the hill. Those with mobility restrictions can enjoy a steady drive up and down, slowing to observe the sculptures and the magnificent views at the top.

It's just under 1 km each way.

The first piece seen in the car park is the Angel, made by the father of Anastasio Martinez Valcárcel who sculpted the Vía Crucis, Nicolas Martinez, and points the way up the hill.

The stations are then positioned on both sides of the road as follows

Jesus is condemned to death

Jesus accepts the burden of the cross

Jesus falls for the first time

Jesus meets his mother, Mary

Simon helps Jesus to shoulder his burden

The feet of Jesus are washed

Jesus falls for the second time

Jesus urges the daughters of Jerusalem not to cry for him

Jesus falls for the third time

Jesus is stripped of his garments

Jesus is nailed to the cross

Jesus dies on the cross

Jesus in the arms of his mother

Jesus in the tomb

Jesus arisen

Enjoy.

IMPORTANT NOTE

Fires, gas cookers and barbeques of any sort are banned between the end of April and the end of October. If the autumn is wet, the ban is lifted between November and December, but it is advisable to check before lighting fires during these months. From January to March, barbecues are permitted, but only in the units provided.

Access

This is an uphill road and is not the easiest of places for those with physical disabilities to access. The carpark at the top gives splendid views, but both of the viewing points have stepped access, so are not easy to negotiate for wheelchair users, although the sculptures can be clearly seen from a car.

The sanctuary is on the main Totana-Aledo road, a twisty up hill road which winds through the forests and is a pleasant, if winding journey. The Via Crucis is just a short distance past the sanctuary of Santa Eulalia on the left hand side. From here, Aledo, a mediaeval hilltop town, is just a short drive away, with yet more stunning views. The Snow houses are this side of the Sierra Espuña.

Driving into the centre of Totana, youll see the signposts for the Sanctuary, Sierra Espuña and Aledo. Cross the river alongside the town hall, then follow the road around to the left up Santa Eulalia.This is the main road out of the back of Totana.

Take note of the Ermita de San Roque, set back off the road a short distance from the town centre; this is where Santa Eulalia is received and spends the night on her journey down into the town every year.