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Crescendo BC3500D is approximately six months old, has never been exposed to low voltage and has no scratches, dings or dents whatsoever. Does 3,875 watts RMS at 13.8v Xs power XP3000 battery is sitting at over 12.7v after being out of my car for several weeks now and is rated to support 3,000 watts rms power 2/0 welding wire is rated to support over 400 continuous amps of current and has already been heat-shrinked and fused for both positive and negative runs from front to back plus the big three upgrade and an additional trunk ground if you so wish to use it WIRE CAN BE HAD FOR $120 SHIPPED FORGOT TO PUT PRICE AMONG OTHER INFO ON SALES SHEET

Well, first off. This is going to be off to a slow start. As some of you know, I totaled out my beloved daewoo and did not have full coverage. I was also between jobs when it happened. So I just picked this 2dr, 4wd blazer today, literally. I got it for a good deal. It needs some work, but it'll be worth it. I got some shit to fix on it, A/C, some suspension work, and I think the front axle solenoid is bad, I hear the transfercase solenoid kicking in, but no pull from the front. Few little nick nack things to fix. No biggie, I'm good at turning a wrench. Any way, I'm pretty well broke right now, until I get steady cash coming in. Most likely the build will start with one of my BC3500's on one of my ufo BTL/Zv3 hybrid 18's. I'll be running xs power batteries all around, I've got 3 D3100's all and will most likely pick up 3 more. Also as some of you know, I won that IA contest a few months ago. I'm still waiting for their new wardens to show and amps. 6-7 D3100's 1 Mechman 370 amp alt 2 IA comp sets per door, one actual dedicated mid bass and an decent super tweet per door. Haven't fully decided on wire yet, but something sliver tinned There will be some vehicle mods besides car audio too some daewoo stuff first this is the biggest issue on the body all gone

Hello, Here is the car itself.... Here is my build log for my 2010 honda civic LX, when I bought this car I started with a pair of Alpine Type-E 10's in a prefab on an Alpine MRP-M500. Then I upgraded the door and rear speakers with Polk Audio DXI650's and an Alpine MRP-F300 which I also use in my current build. After that I moved to an AB XFL 15's on an Audio Technix AT1200.1d. This log will reflect my current state: DC Power 180 amp alternator XS D5100R under the hood Northstar NSB-AGM24M in the trunk Audio Technix 1/0 OFC run to the trunk Knukonceptz 1/0 OFC in the trunk Sky High Lugs and RCA's Alpine CDE-HD137BT Crscendo RTS-1 tweeters Sony mids Alpine-MRP-F300 bridged at 20Vac for 100wrms Soundqubed HDS312's in a sealed 5.02^3 enclourse(Yes it's too big, fixing it tonight!) Soundqubed Q1-2200D Audio Technix 60mil deadener Here is the DC power alternator installed, I have recently changed the belt so that it doesn't slip at idle when it's raining anymore. The new belt is 1/4 shorter as the DC pulley is the same size as the factory pulley. XS Power D5100R with tool maker terminals Big three upgrade in all Audio Technix silver tinned 1/0 OFC Now to start ripping all the old stuff out.... Car was really dirty at this point... Summer semester was killing me, but I needed some work on my hobby time. I really didn't feel like removing the seats and possibly having an air bag light.. Next post will be the install of all the new goods!!

I have for sale: 1 Sundown SAZ-3500D v2 $650 +shipping 2 15" Memphis MOJO M3 motors with PSI soft parts/baskets.(1800w RMS each) $225 each/$400 both +shipping 2 XS Power XP3000 Batteries $225 each/$400 both +shipping I can also do local pickup and can drive some depending on distance SAZ-3500D v2 great shape no damage at all except small nicks where its been mounted PSI MOJOs motors are older orange basket M3s have scratching on bottom. soft parts in good shape. XP3000s have post terminals for both. also have 556 multi top post adapters if desired.

This might be a semi slow build, I have most of the equipment, but I do need a few other things to complete it all. I traded my truck in on a 2012 VW Passat about 6 months ago and I've had a stock stereo since. This will be my first time building a ported box, fis\rst experience with a processor (360.3) and my first experience with a 15" sub (SSA X-CON). The X-CON is Dual 1 ohm, so it should be good on the DC 5.0K at 2 ohms (2300 watts nominal). I am keeping the stock head unit, but adding a Rockford Fosgate 360.3 to control everything. The door speakers will be RF T1675's for now powered by a Kicker 350.4. Knuconceptz wire, XS batteries, Dakota Digital volt meter, Second Skin are being used as well.

I have been having trouble trying to understand on how to make a box design, so I was just going to see if anyone here could help me. I know that when some one asks this question they tend to leave out important information when needing help so I'm going to give you all the info I can, and please tell me if I am missing anything. Trunk dimentions(MAX): 17" Tall, 35" Wide, and 20" Depth Subwoofer: Fi Sp4 15" Loaded D2 ohm sub wired to 1 ohm Amp: Audioque2200D Wire: All Sky High Car Audio Cable Alt: Stock 180 amp Batteries: Xs Power D4700 hood & future Xs D1200 trunk It'll go in the trunk of a 2012 Chevrolet Cruze. I've tried using Torres Box calc and google sketch up and so far I've had no luck. So any info, input, or any help in general would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys!

Should have really started this earlier lol. As the title suggests I have an Audi A4 Avant, with a little bass Quick run down of the specs and equipment - Audi A4 Avant 1.9TDI Sport - Alpine 9887R Headunit with full speed iPod connection - Ground Zero GZUC 16SQ - Crystal CAM200.2 - 2 Fully Loaded 15" Fi SP4 Subwoofers - SPL Dynamics D6 - Custom Made Enclosure with Adjustable Tuning - 3 XS Power D3400 Batteries [1 up front and 2 in the back] - Dual 210a Alternators with an external regulator - For the most part Knukonceptz 0gauge OFC Fleks wiring throughout Before this install I've had a number of different set ups in this car. I started off with 2 15" Fi BTLs on a 5kwrms Atomic amp, then downgraded to a single BTL15 on various amps - Sundown SAZ1500dv1, Rockford Fosgate T20001BD and a GZNA 1.2500DXII. Now on to the pics...

Here we are peoples. The build some of you are waiting for.................. This will be a three phase style build. I will be competing Street Stock at first, then I will switch up to SS NW, the SS 3-4 for the DBdrag sanction. We have here a 2003 Yukon XL that has been Deemed(by me) the SSA YUKONVICT. ^^^^^^^^^ LAST SEASON New Season - New Truck Gotta get them Stock boys off there Much better but needs new tires Those are for the Winter Stock tires the Deuces will get them over winter for summer Much better than Stock radio with the tape player Holy intake Batman Gotta have the Juice! But what about the Alternator to charge it That needs to be cleaned up but thats enough for now lets go have fun!

So im finally ordering my dream system for my 2003 Dodge Dakota Crew Cab, Its gonna consist of 2 15" d1 SSA Icons in a box approx 8cubic feet tuned around 28hz (will be getting someone on the forum to design it. a Crescendo BC2000D, and a Kicker KX600.4 for my Hertz Hsk components, I know I need some upgraded electrical, so far Big 3 Is done in 0 guage. My truck can fit a group 27 battery but not 31 will the D2700 be adequate? alternator is stock 136 amp. Might end up getting Singer 250a but budget isnt quite ready to fork out that kinda cash. Basically I will be running around 2000 rms after rise and having speakers at 4 ohm. Is this way underkill or will it maybe be enough for now? It will be my DD with occasional demo and cranking it occasionally. Will be ordering this from SSA Tomorrow if I get some good answers. Thanks

So I go to put my 3400 in after charging. It took it off the charger put it in the car check it with a DMM and reading 13.7v or so. So I hook everything up and start the truck. Voltage reads 15.1 then down to 14.8 on my stinger meter. I go to check my 3400 with a DMM and it reads 13.78v WTF. So I check my amp wires they read 14.8 WTF. So I check the 3400 again it still reads 13.78-13.79. Then I check my stock it's reading 14.8. My wires are ran like this Alt POS to POS on 3400 Alt POS to POS on stock POS from 3400 to POS on amp. My questions are. Is my amp wires reading 14.8 but my 3400 is reading 13.78? Is it because my 3400 is fully charged so it's not accepting the charge are something? Edit: So I went out and batt was resting at 13.17. Start the car it creeps up .1 by .1 to 13.30. I'm talking 13.17 1 sec later 13.20 1sec later 13.21ect. Ran over and checked stock and it was at 15.0 I then shut the car down.

What's up everyone! So you guys are probably used to me posting stuff on Team Sundown Russia with everything being pretty much 100% Sundown gear with a few Skars or Obsidian thrown in to the mix. This time we went a little out of our way to pick up some awesome Fi BTL n2 12's (Thanks Scott! thanks Am!!) here we are unboxing, busting balls over how stiff the spider pack is and generally bullshitting in Russian
We plugged them into our in-shop Audi A4 sedan, which has lately become our test mule for just about anything we can get our hands on. It's not sealed off, subs forward, 6" port firing to the side....it's usually used for door open demos at meets and what not, so we set it up to meter that way..it generally peaks 29-30Hz and is within a db from 28 to 38hz, dropping less than 2 at 25hz. Does great on all types of music, moves quite a bit of air and is generally a surpise to most folks..... anyhow, enough rambling. Fi BTL n2's in the box we usually have a Sundown SAZ3500D in there wired to 0.5 (BTLs are also d2's), but since they were obviouslu begging for moar powa we let 'em have it and uleashed a brand new Sundown Audio NS-1 amp on them ( we have clamped upto 9k from one on a big 12v battery bank, but here we are likely pushing closer to 6k considering how it drops to mid 11's) ...still, plenty power for sure