So fight, Which one did you buy, the one with XML U2s' or XM-L2's? How does the output compare with your tri-clone lamp? Where did you order from and how long did it take to get to you? Nice to hear that the beam tint is very white. That alone makes these worth buying. I just hope they hold up after using for some time ( without doing any mods ).

I got the one from FastTech with the XML- U2's. Mine took almost a full month, but they said it got held up in "x-ray scan". Another guy on here had his in like two weeks from FastTech.

I did find it on Wallbuys for a couple dollars less ($48.39), but I've never dealt with them.

I haven't had it on the trail yet, but on the wall I'd say the tri-clone on medium (2 leds) seems slightly brighter, but I think that is just because of the more focused hot spot.
I really don't like to say too much until I have it on the trail, because I've commented on brightness and beam patterns before after shining them on the wall inside, and then had a very different opinion of them after I get them on a dark tree lined trail.

It is definitely a more evenly spread, floody type light. For that reason it will probably go on my bars.
I'd love to have the same exact light with either "spot" optics, or just OP textured reflectors to put on my helmet.
I think that would be the perfect combo!

For the money those are a great start on a light set though. Pretty clean looking construction. Is the surface the LEDs attach to pressed into the housing or integral to the housing? Can't tell from the pics what it has for strain relief/sealing on the cable entry. How is the sealing on the front and back covers and the sealing on the screws that hold the front and back on?

Is the surface the LEDs attach to pressed into the housing or integral to the housing? Can't tell from the pics what it has for strain relief/sealing on the cable entry. How is the sealing on the front and back covers and the sealing on the screws that hold the front and back on?

The mid metal surface is integral to the housing, the heat transfer is very good.

Similar design to the easy2led housing where the entire piece is machined out.

No strain relief for the cables inside the housing, there is a strain relief for the power cable to the circuit board.

There are silicone rings for the front and back housing plate assemblies, the lens though are "sealed" by a really thin piece of silicone.

after the recommandation of leuchte81 for this lamp, I also got my first bike light.
I'm really happy with this light and think the value for money is really good.
Mine also took over 1 month for the delivery.

Now after some tests I have some questions and hope you might give me some hints what to do:

- When should I recharge the batteries? When the on/off button turns red, or should I fully empty the batteries?
- How long does it need to recharge? Can I trust the recharger lamp?
- Which batteries and case should I buy to improve the duration?

Great pics from Mrbubbles for detailed view and 2melow for comparison between the old MS P7 and Gemini clone.
Yinding beam looks almost perfect. I am also waiting for Yinding from DX, but it seems it somehow stuck at the Beijing airport.
It will be the main lamp, and my current old MS P7 will become backup. So those beamshots are great reference for me.

@2melow: Can you check if you really have T6 3B bin? and
can someone measure the current on high on batteries/LEDs/driver ?

About the packages being stuck in China, that I read several people mentioning. There have been 7 days holiday in China where everything has been standing still - that is probably the reason for the delay that we still are suffering from.

The inside.
The circuit.
The inside diameter.
All the parts disassembled.
Overall, it's a very simple straight forward design, folks should've thought of this about 5 years ago, it's not like cnc machines weren't available back then.

Is this the fast tech light? Did you find screws under the rubber on the mount? I want to purchase one of these, but hate the rubber band mounting mechanism and was hoping I could purchase a cat eye mount or something to hook it on. Thanks for any info.

About the packages being stuck in China, that I read several people mentioning. There have been 7 days holiday in China where everything has been standing still - that is probably the reason for the delay that we still are suffering from.

I ordered from someone on aliexpress which was a bad idea, it was 40 days ago and never shipped. It just said "status opening" for a month. I opened a dispute. I am thinking about buying from fast tech now.

I ordered from someone on aliexpress which was a bad idea, it was 40 days ago and never shipped. It just said "status opening" for a month. I opened a dispute. I am thinking about buying from fast tech now.

I bought mine from aliexpress. So it depends on the seller.

Originally Posted by sxotty

Is this the fast tech light? Did you find screws under the rubber on the mount? I want to purchase one of these, but hate the rubber band mounting mechanism and was hoping I could purchase a cat eye mount or something to hook it on. Thanks for any info.

This light is the same as the fasttech version. It's a 4mm hex screw, much better than those screws for plastic housing.

Cree do not mark bin or tint codes on their emitters. Really all you'll be able to say is the tint is cool, neutral, or warm. Even that is pretty subjective. When I mention one of my MCE lights looking a little green on the low setting most people don't see it until I switch to a higher level where it gets more white. Without at the very least a calibrated integrating sphere and calibrated constant current power supply, you'll never know what bin you have. I very much doubt that the builders of cheap lights are really stepping up for a premium bin LED. Sure, it's not that much more expensive but at the price level lights are at now saving a dollar on LEDs is going to be very attractive to the builder. Add the fact that the consumer has no ability to tell and you have a sure thing.