If You Want to Fill Doughnuts with Jam, Pastry Cream, Apples... Read This!

Have you been following along in my doughnut saga? First, I waxed poetic about the glory of the classic yeast doughnut. Then, I formed new opinions on the elusive cake doughnut. But the next stage of this doughy tale is perhaps the most delicious of all: filled doughnuts. I’m talking about doughnuts that are lightly crisp on the outside, then stuffed full of delicious things on the inside.

1. First up, a doughnut primer.

Ingredients: Most yeast doughnuts are made up of just a few ingredients: Flour, liquid (water, milk, buttermilk, or a combo), yeast, salt, and flavorings are the usual bases. Some recipes will also include enrichments like eggs, a small amount of sugar, butter, or oil. Ingredients for fillings and toppings can be nearly anything—the sky’s the limit (but read on for some particularly tasty options).

Mixing: Yeast doughnuts need more intense mixing to build structure. Follow the recipe’s guidelines, but yeasted doughnut dough should generally be mixed on low speed until the dough comes together, then mixed on medium speed to strengthen gluten strands.

Rising: Because most yeast doughnut doughs have a decent amount of enrichments, they can take a decent amount of time to rise (1 to 2 1/2 hours after mixing, and another 30 minutes to 1 hour after shaping. If you’re impatient, do what I do, and opt for an overnight rise instead. Use cool liquid to mix the batter the night before instead of warm liquid the day of. Then transfer your dough to a greased bowl, cover, and refrigerate overnight. Bring the dough to room temperature before proceeding with the recipe.

Frying: If you have one, use a deep-fry thermometer to test the oil and help regulate the temperature—around 350° Fahrenheit is best. If you don’t have one, do it the way my great-great grandma did: Throw a doughnut hole or scrap piece of dough into the oil and see if it sizzles and rises to the surface. If it does, you’re good to go.

Draining: My favorite draining system for doughnuts is simple: Several layers of absorbent paper towels on a baking sheet. When the towels get too saturated, toss the top layers and reveal the fresh ones underneath. Some folks opt for a cooling rack set on top paper towels. Either way is fine!

2. Types of fillings.

The beauty filled doughnuts is that they can be done so many ways: Fill them with custard, jam/jelly/preserves, cooked fruit, ganache or chocolate—the list goes on. The main thing to consider is when the doughnuts will be filled. Some doughnuts have a filling added before they are fried (such as fritters, twists, and bear claws), so the fillings themselves must be adjusted accordingly. The filling may have flour or egg in it for stability, to make sure it stays inside during the frying. Other doughnuts get their fillings after frying (such as long johns and Berliners), so the fillings can be much more flexible—anything from whipped cream to fruit curd can be added.

Fritters, for example, get chunks of fruit—like apples (or pears or peaches or cherries or...)Photo by Bobbi Lin

3. Garnishes.

The sky is the limit with garnishes. When I’m making filled doughnuts, I always carefully consider any other components to make sure they’ll really complement each other. If a doughnut has a chunkier filling, for example, I may opt for a smooth, all-over glaze. If a doughnut has a smooth and creamy filling, I may garnish the doughnut with cinnamon sugar or chopped nuts for contrast. Some doughnuts don’t need anything but a dusting of powdered sugar. Really, it’s all up to you!

4. Let’s talk types of filled doughnuts.

There are several types of filled doughnuts, and they’re all worth a mention as you find your true doughnut path. Each type is totally adaptable, meaning you can adjust the shapes or fillings or glazes to suit your whims and tastes!

Long Johns

A long, rectangular doughnut made from yeasted dough that often boasts a thicker shmear of glaze and plenty of filling. Here’s how to do it:

Roll out your dough to 1/2 inch thick. Use a pastry wheel or bench knife to cut the dough into rectangles. Size isn’t important (you do you, fellow doughnut lover)—but for reference's sake, I opt for about 2 x 4 inches.

Let the rectangles rise on a lightly floured surface or baking sheet. Fry the dough in hot oil (around 350° Fahrenheit) until golden on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain on absorbent paper towels.

Photo by Bobbi Lin

Let the doughnuts cool for 5 to 10 minutes before adding the filling with a pastry bag fitted with a metal circle tip (a medium-large tip is best, and a Bismarck tip—especially made for filling—is ideal). Press the handle of a wooden spoon into the base or side of the doughnut to make a hole. Insert the pastry bag into the hole and apply pressure to the bag, filling until the doughnut feels heavy.

If you feel like going the easier/more rustic route, you can cut the doughnut in half and spoon filling inside the center. But be warned: This method is significantly messier come eating time!

Glaze the doughnut, if desired. Garnish however you like!

Fruit Fritters

Sweetened and seasoned fruit is stuffed inside a yeasted dough, and cut into individual pieces before frying. These are most commonly made with apples, but can really be made with lots of fruits—peaches are another fave of mine! Here’s how to do it:

Prepare your fruit filling. This usually involves cooking the fruit until just tender on the stovetop. Let the filling cool to room temperature before proceeding.

Roll out the dough to 1/4 inch thick. No need to be precise about the shape here—rustic is the name of the game.

Scatter the cooled fruit filled evenly over the surface of the dough, then gently roll the dough up into a log. Use a rolling pin to gently roll out the log flat, into more of a rectangular shape no more than 1 inch thick.

Fritter dough gets rolled out, filled with apples, rolled into a log, rolled out again, then sliced into squares.Photo by Bobbi Lin

Use a bench knife or knife to cut the dough into squares (totally fine to be random, but just try to make them roughly the same size so they’ll fry evenly).

Fry the fritters until golden brown on each side. Take care when adding them to the oil; some fruit may fall out (that’s okay)! If you’re making multiple kinds of doughnuts, fry these last, as the filling can flavor and color the oil.

Drain the fritters on absorbent paper towels. Let cool at least 5 minutes before coating in sugar or glazing.

Berliners

Usually a round or square piece of yeasted dough, which provides an airy interior that easily makes room for lots of filling. Usually glazed with a complementary flavor to the filling. Here’s how to do it:

Roll out your dough to 1/2 inch thick. Use a round cutter to cut circles of dough (precise size isn’t important, but I usually go for 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide). Alternatively, use a pastry wheel or bench knife to cut the dough into squares (I usually opt for 3 x 3 inches).

Let the doughnuts rise on a lightly floured surface or baking sheet. Fry the dough in hot oil (around 350° Fahrenheit) until golden on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain on absorbent paper towels.

Photo by Bobbi Lin

These Berliners get the double dip: First in chocolate glaze, then in chocolate curls.Photo by Bobbi Lin

Let the doughnuts cool for 5 to 10 minutes before adding the filling with a pastry bag fitted with a metal circle tip (a medium-large tip is best, and a Bismarck tip—especially made for filling—is ideal). Press the handle of a wooden spoon into the base or side of the doughnut to make a hole. Insert the pastry bag into the hole and apply pressure to the bag, filling until the doughnut feels heavy.

If you feel like going the easier/more rustic route, you can cut the doughnut in half and spoon filling inside the center. But be warned: This method is significantly messier come eating time!

Glaze the doughnut, if desired. Garnish however you like!

Twists:

A sweetened filling is spread on yeasted dough, then rolled up into it and twisted before frying. Here’s how to do it:

Roll out your dough to 1/4 inch thick. Cut the dough into rectangles (about 2 x 4 inches should do the trick).

Spread a heaping tablespoon (or so) of filling evenly across the dough. You’ll want to use a smooth, easily spreadable filling for this recipe.

Starting with one of the longer sides, roll the dough up into a tight log.

Photo by Bobbi Lin

Use a bench knife or knife to cut the log in half, leaving one end attached. Then twist the two halves together, and pinch the ends to seal. If the strand gets too long when you twist it, cut it in half to make two twists!

Let the doughnuts rise on a lightly floured surface or baking sheet. Fry the twists in hot oil (around 350° Fahrenheit) until golden on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain on absorbent paper towels. If you’re making multiple kinds of doughnuts, fry these last, as the filling can flavor and color the oil.

Be generous with that maple glaze!Photo by Bobbi Lin

Drain the twists on absorbent paper towels. Let cool at least 5 minutes before coating in sugar or glazing.

Bear Claws

A filled yeast dough (commonly with almond or other nut filling). So named because their shape resembles a bear’s paw.

Roll the dough out to 1/4 inch thick. Cut the dough into rectangles (about 2 x 4 inches should do the trick).

Spread a heaping tablespoon (or so) of filling evenly across the dough. You’ll want to use a smooth, easily spreadable filling for this recipe.

Starting with one of the longer sides, roll the dough up into a tight log.

Photo by Bobbi Lin

Use a bench knife or knife to cut the dough into 5 segments, but don’t cut all the way through—leave them attached on one side. (You’re making the "toes" of the paw here.)

Separate the cut pieces a little bit, then curl the doughnut into a half circle. Use your thumb to press each cut piece to make a "toe" look.

Let the doughnuts rise on a lightly floured surface or baking sheet. Fry the bear claws in hot oil (around 350° Fahrenheit) until golden on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain on absorbent paper towels. If you’re making multiple kinds of doughnuts, fry these last, as the filling can flavor and color the oil.

Drain the twists on absorbent paper towels. Let cool at least 5 minutes before coating in sugar or glazing.

5. Remember: Fresh is best.

The best doughnuts are fresh doughnuts. If you've ever lived anywhere near a Krispy Kreme, you get it. When that magical light went on, it was absolutely worth it to pull over with a screech just to get at those piping hot doughnuts. But even at room temperature, doughnuts are best the same day. If you must, keep them in airtight containers overnight, and enjoy round two.

I always carry three kinds of hot sauce in my purse. I have a soft spot for making people their favorite dessert, especially if it's pie. My first cookbook, The Fearless Baker, is out on October 24, 2017.