SWA(SP)P 2016-Pack 2-#2: Toile and Trouble

Last night I cut out the pattern pieces for the Truly Victorian#420 ‘cuirasse bodice’. THIS time, I read the instructions properly, and did all the calculations to choose the correct size pieces. I’m afraid that, rebel that I am, on the green jacket [TV462] I just went by corseted bust and waist sizes, and opted for the pattern size that best approximated to them. And then I had all those alterations to make after the fact. Sigh.

Well, these special sizing instructions come straight after those standard diagrams showing you how to measure yourself. OBVIOUSLY I know that, so didn’t look any closer.

Well not huge, but it took long enough!

Truly Victorian point out that their system doesn’t equate to any other, and to pay attention. Well, good teacher=bad student in most cases I fear, and I paid the price.

This is what I SHOULD have done.

You probably can’t make it all out, but you measure your back width, and choose the back pattern pieces to match. You then follow the chart to find your ‘adjusted back width’, subtract it from your bust measurement to get your ‘adjusted front’ measurement, and choose your front pattern piece accordingly. You measure your ‘armhole’ [armscye] measurement, and choose the sleeve size for that.

This gave me I for the back, G for the front, and F for the sleeve. Last time I cut all G I think. Remember how I had to let out all the seam allowances, then take the front darts in…makes sense now!Mind you, size charts are different for the 2 patterns, as the period silhouette is slightly different…if I was going for historical accuracy, I’d need a different corset. This style is also not meant to go with a bustle. We’ll see!

I’m cutting out very slightly larger for the front piece, but transferring the stitching lines for G. I also need to make a toile for the skirt. I’m self drafting [sounds posh but isn’t]. The skirt is more or less a rectangle for the front, darted or pleated at the waist if needed, and a semicircle for the back. I may make it slightly less full. As I’m undecided about the bustle, I’ll cut it slightly longer at centre back.

Speaking of bustles, I’m itching to make one of these beauties, a ‘lobster tail bustle’

Isn’t it GAWJUS? The article on how to make it is from ‘A Damsel in This Dress’. What a brilliant blog title! [Kate, tempted?]

This bustle may not be used for this particular outfit, and anyway, in true steampunk style, it may deserve to be worn on the outside of another outfit in due course…

I was awake at 4am today, in my menopausal way, and spent some fruitful yawning time browsing for methods and ideas for trimming this outfit. It’s to be an evening ensemble remember, so more is more. The skirt will have a deep pleated frill round the hem, for decoration and structure, as well as a stiffened facing on the hem. I’ve started gathering images on my Pinterest ‘trimmings’ board here. The SWA[S]P pack #2 board is here.

I think some of my miles of binding could become trimming as well, I dug out one of my very few sewing books to have a mooch. It’s this beauty that has stayed on a shelf unused for far too long

I MUST DO SOME OF THIS! What a challenge…well, I may get as far as some samples anyway.

I have that book and it’s really nice. Also I love the “plum” Worth dress on your pin board – what a treasure. Also that measurement system seems so complicated. Maybe it is aimed at someone with a maths degree, or similar? And I agree the lobster tail is amazing – looking forward to your self drafted skirt.

It’s actually a very sensible measuring system once you think about it, and is aiming to at least deal with broad back/narrow back issues. The full/small bust can mostly be dealt with by the two very long darts at the front, and the armscye measurement is unusual but sane. I’m quite impressed- this should reduce fitting issues a great deal. I hope! Apart from the frill, the skirt will be very like the black one I ran up for my first steampunk outfit…but more solidly constructed I trust.

A good example of reading the instructions first being worthwhile. It will be in to see how much fitting is needed this time.
I was knitting at 5.15am. We really nee to meet to compare notes and and share a chamomile tea in Birmingham!

I’ve had the book for a while, never done more than browse through it though. How many of us actually read and measure to such a great extent I wonder? Maybe would save us all a lot of bother if we did.