Trip Report

Return to Lynchburg Via the Crescent

November 3-7, 2002

by
Stephen E. Thorpe

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Introduction

I was blessed with a chance to return to Lynchburg 3 times
this year for training on my employers' radio system, which
I as well as three other technicians in our shop maintain.
Major enhancements were made early this year, so we needed
more training to bring us up to speed on the system.

A week after returning from my METRA adventure in Chicago, I
packed my bags again and headed for Lynchburg for the first
trip this year. In May, I took the train again, this time,
bringing my wife, Denise. In October, Paul and I [Paul is
the other senior technician in our shop] drove down for a
three day training class.

Now, finally, I am getting to do the report I wanted to do
in February. I do have a valid reason for the delay though.
Shortly after returning in February, I came down with a
serious dose of Pneumonia that took 3 courses of antibiotics
to get rid of. I was sick all of March, and April, not
feeling better until late in May. For someone who has never
been that sick before it was a tough time. I wasn't even in
the mood to write. But now, all is well and here we go!

Leaving time

In order to arrive in Lynchburg on time for Class on Monday
Morning at 8:30 we had to leave on Sunday afternoon. The
Crescent [train#19] only Runs once a day, so two travel days
are needed. It's a shame that there Isn't more frequent
service, even as far as say Danville, Va. Amtrak, as it
exists today is a skeletal system, and just before leaving
for this trip rumors are circulating that the Pennsylvanian
#43 & 44 are being truncated to Pittsburgh in January. The
thoughts of losing a favorite train are not pleasant,
especially since I was planning to ride it in February.
We'll have to wait and see.

This is Paul's first Amtrak trip. I'm anxious to see what a
non-railfan thinks of the experience, since I'm rather
biased, and ordinary person's opinion of a trip like this
will give me a balance between romance and reality.

Denise drops us off in Westfield at 12:45 so we can catch an
NJ Transit local to Penn station, Newark, where we will pick
up the Crescent. Upon arrival at Newark, I need to get new
tickets, since they had forgotten to include my guest
rewards number on the originals. Now, a word about our
carrier, Amtrak.

David Gunn's Amtrak

In a previously unpublished article, which is available at
the Thorpe Family web site, I gave a little past history of
the Crescent, so only a capsule will be provided here. The
Crescent originally was called the Southern Crescent and was
operated by the Southern Railway until the late 70's. When
most of the railroads turned over the operation of their
passenger trains to Amtrak back in 1971, The Southern, and
Rio Grande refused. Graham Claytor, then president of the
Southern Railway, did not want to see his favorite train
operated by Amtrak, which in the beginning was a far cry
from what it is today.

Claytor kept the Crescent under Southern aegis until he
retired, and his successor, L. Stanley Crane gave the train
to Amtrak, removing Southern as the last private carrier to
operate a regular long-haul passenger train.

By that time, Amtrak had gotten its act together Graham
Claytor had come out of retirement to become Amtrak's
president and the Crescent again came under his control.

I can't say enough good things about Graham Claytor. He took
personal involvement with that train. The crews knew he rode
the train, and when the boss is watching, things are always
done right.

Under the George Warrington era, Amtrak sucked up more
money, while the service went downhill. If Graham Claytor's
management policy was one of direct contact, Warrington's
policy was one of insulation. He created a multi-layered
bureaucracy between him and the people who worked on the
trains, as well as the traveling public. Thankfully he
resigned earlier this year, and was replaced by David Gunn,
a guy who knows how to run a railroad. It will take Dave
Gunn a long time to undo all the damage that took place
under the Warrington era, but he has made a good start by
getting rid of a large number of useless consultants. While
I'm not happy about Dave Gunn cutting service, I know he'll
do the best he can with a bad deck. Too bad he hadn't come
aboard a few years earlier.

Here comes the Crescent!

Train #19 arrives on the platform at 2:45. Paul and I board
and settle in for the trip. Our car attendant, whose name I
didn't get, told us we could sit anywhere we wanted to, so
we picked two seats on the left, which gives the best view
of the line.

Traveling in fall is a treat. The foliage is near peak, and
reveals rich hues of reds, greens and yellows, as we race
southward toward Lynchburg. After a brief stop at Trenton,
we cross the Delaware River and enter the 4 track raceway
that was formerly the Philadelphia region of the
Pennsylvania railroad. Due to restrictions of the E-60
Electric locomotive hauling our train, we are humming along
at a mere 90 MPH. Most regular electrically hauled trains
here are allowed 120 MPH, but the E-60 and combination of
MHC cars restricts to 90.

CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE:

We arrive on-time into Amtrak's massive 30th street station.
Just as we come to a stop, we lose our Lights as the E-60
shuts down the Head-end power plant in preparation to
uncouple from our train. Paul and I stay on the platform for
about 10 minutes, observing our engine change. Although the
overhead wire [catenary system] extends as far south as
Washington, DC, The Crescent, most Florida trains, as well
as Chicago and Harrisburg trains all change from electric to
diesel power here. Our relatively quiet E-60 is replaced by
a brace of General Electric P-42 diesel locomotives, charged
with hauling the Crescent the rest of the way to New
Orleans. Each unit is rated at 4200 horsepower, and the
combination will provide 8400. Car-inspectors are busy in
the pit [the area below the high-level platform] aligning
couplers, and connecting cables, Intercom and signal lines,
as well as the 480 VOLT MA that supplies heat and light to
our passenger cars. This is a place where a second of
inattention can cost you life or limb. I have nothing but
admiration for those men and women who work down there doing
the grunge Work of railroading. The Train crews get all the
glory, but without the car inspectors trains wouldn't run.
Next time you see them, why not stop and thank them for all
the dangerous work they do, every day.

What on earth is Head-end power?

Back in the steam locomotive days, passenger trains were
heated by some of the steam used to power the locomotive.
Steam was sent through the train under pressure, and the last
car's steam valve was usually just cracked open to provide
for an outlet. As steam locomotives gave way to Electric and
diesel locomotives, these successors were fitted with steam
generators to provide heat for the train. Larger terminals
had their own steam plants to heat the trains prior to the
locomotive coupling on. As in all things mechanical, nothing
is perfect. Steam would leak from the couplings between the
cars, and leaks could, and often did develop under the cars
themselves. This made for a great show, especially in below-
zero weather, when the atmosphere was so dry the steam would
condense in huge clouds that could be seen rising from
between, as well as under the cars. My earliest memories of
this were on the New York and Long Branch railroad in New
Jersey. Every winter I could count on making a few bucks
shoveling snow. I would promptly spend the proceeds of my
day's labor on a train ride, usually to Ashbury Park and
back. While waiting in the station for my Pennsylvania RR
train, a Jersey central train would stop on its trek to
Jersey City. One particularly bitter cold winter day around
dusk, I observed the steam rising from between the cars as
the train was stopped in the station. People looked so safe
and warm inside, while winter winds roared just outside
those windows. It gave me a warm feeling inside, and
probably is another reason why I'm a railfan. Back in those
days, railroading was a multi-sensory experience. While that
may be somewhat true today, we lost a lot with the switch
from steam to electric train heating. Most passenger cars
back then had their own batteries and generators to provide
lighting. The generators were either belt or gear-driven
through the car's axles. Some railroads used a 117 volt source
on the locomotive to provide lighting power.

Nowadays, Both electric engines, as well as diesels have
HEP, or Head End Power. On electric locomotives, an MA
[Motor-alternator] is used. It is very similar in operation
to the Motor generators used to power elevators in
buildings. It takes some of the single-phase power from the
locomotive's transformer to turn a motor that drives a 3
phase alternator, which, in turn supplies power for heat,
light and air conditioning to the attached passenger cars.
On diesel locomotives, a separate alternator is driven,
either from the main propulsion engine, or and a auxiliary
diesel engine.

Paul and I run upstairs while the pit and train crew are
completing their brake tests. He was impressed with the size
of the place. I wisely decide to get back on the train,
rather than go up to the suburban level for SEPTA
timetables. It was a very wise choice, since we depart just
minutes after reboarding.

Diner in the diner:

This is probably the greatest part of a train ride. Let's
face it, where else can you get a full course meal, and
watch the countryside pass by at the same time? We sit down
for dinner just after departing Wilmington. Although all but
the last vestiges of daylight have faded, houses and street
lights in little villages and hamlets are coming on as our
waiter brings salad and rolls. They have changed the menu
since my last trip. Paul opts for the catfish, while I
choose the filet mignon. Our main courses arrive, as we race
southward, crossing the Susquehanna and Gunpowder Rivers.
After a couple of cups of coffee, and pie a la mode for
desert, we have arrived in Baltimore. Time really flies when
you're having fun! Between Baltimore and Washington, we
return to our coach and watch the darkened countryside fly
by.

Washington:

We arrive on the lower-level. We will get a new engineer and
train crew here, as well as an MHC [Material-handling] car
added to the rear of our train. I snap a picture of our
coach attendant here. I wish I had gotten her name. She was
so busy. Just a couple of years ago, there was 1 attendant
PER COACH, now; they have cut back, at least on this train
to 1 for 3 coaches! Paul and I hit the platform to record
our consist.

A freshly painted AEM-7 is on the adjacent track, not well
enough lit [Unfortunately] for a photo. Some of the other
passengers join us on the ground for a smoke break. After a
few minutes, people begin boarding. A good crowd gets on
here, and we have almost a full coach leaving DC. Almost
half of the passengers in our coach are for Charlottesville,
VA, which reinforces the fact Amtrak needs to add MORE
trains, instead of removing the few that it has.

Southward ho:

We depart Washington; pass through the tunnel, than re-join
the freight Line at old `RO' tower. We stop briefly at
Alexandria, before turning west-south-west to join the NS
former Southern line. Major work was completed last year
here [AF interlocking]. We pass several Virginia railway
express commuter stations, before stopping at Manassas.
Until recently, this was the end of VRE passenger service.
Earlier this year it was extended a couple miles south
to Broad Run.

Our stop at Charlottesville consumes several minutes as we
discharge almost half of our coaches passengers. A large
number of who appear to be college students headed for the
University of Virginia. Of further note is the crossing here
with the CSXT's line which is the route of Amtrak's CARDINAL
that runs between Washington, DC and Chicago, Ill. I'm
considering taking that route to Chicago early next year.

We race southward toward Lynchburg. It is a dark night with
no stars visible. The only light comes from passing
streetlights and houses, and these are few-and-far between,
since we are in the country.

I place a cell phone call to our hotel to have the jitney
meet us at the station. Shortly after, we arrive on time at
Kemper street station. I was sorry I called for the ride as
early as I did, since I wanted to wait and watch the
Crescent depart south. Our ride showed up almost as soon as
we arrived and our driver graciously waited, at my behest
for the Crescent to depart.

Going Home:

This was a short trip. We arrived in Lynchburg on Sunday,
and here, on Thursday, we are leaving.

It's been a blessing to have trained with M/A Com so many
times over the past couple of years. Each one of their
trainers has their own unique way of imparting what most
people would consider to be a very dry subject. I've met all
of them, and had the privilege of having trained under
Nancy, Tank, Dave and Rick, as well as getting to know Dru
who does the registrations. All of these good people are a
credit to their company. Leaving this time is a bittersweet
experience, since this training class is probably the last
one I'll take in some time. I'm really going to miss
Lynchburg, as well as the good people at M/A Com.

While the trip down is at more civilized hours, the return
requires an early-morning wake up due to its 5:51 AM
departure from Kemper Street. I get the wake-up call at 4
AM, and since I packed before turning in last night, all I
have to do is get dressed, grab a cup of coffee and check
out. I call Paul, and we head downstairs at 4:30. Since the
hotel shuttle is not running, the hotel clerk orders us a
cab to take us to Kemper Street. It is still pitch-dark
outside, as the cab cruises the city streets. A young lady,
a practitioner of the world's oldest profession, is plying
her trade on a cold Fort Ave.

Pinprick holes in a colorless sky:

"Pinprick holes in a colorless sky,
Let insipid figures of light pass by,
The mighty light of ten thousand suns,
Challenges infinity and is soon gone.
Night time, to some a brief interlude,
To others the fear of solitude.
Brave Helios wake up your steeds,
Bring the warmth the countryside needs."
--From the MOODY BLUES, days of future passed

I am reminded of the words of the above poem, as I stand on
the dark, cold platform of Kemper Street. The birds are
beginning to awaken, as the first streaks of dawn appear. A
northbound freight roars through.

Since my first trip down, Kemper Street station has
undergone a major renovation. One, I might add, it was in
sore need of. The upstairs has been converted into a bus
terminal, for both local and long-distance busses, while
Amtrak has taken over the lower-level. Since a picture is
worth a thousand words, I'll let the photos speak for
themselves. Now that the station has been renovated, a few
more trains going there would be a big plus for this large
city.

The Northbound Crescent is running 30 minutes down this
morning, a deficit it is likely not to recover from. At 6:30
the Crescent arrives. Paul and I board and sit again on the
left side. Seating is no problem. lots of empty seats to
choose from. Since we checked our larger bags, all I have is
a laptop. We stow our carry-on stuff, as well as our coats
in the overhead, and proceed to the dining car where
breakfast is just beginning to be served. Paul has the
French toast, while I opt for my old standard of eggs,
potatoes, and sausage. We keep our eyes open for Amherst
station, where we watched the Southbound Crescent roar through
Monday night. It appears out of the autumn morning gloom
just as our breakfast arrives.

The sun is trying it's best to break through the clouds, and
succeeds as we finish breakfast. The Blue Ridge is on fire
with a spectacular autumn foliage display, in and of itself
well worth the cost of a train ticket. Our stop at
Charlottesville is longer than expected, which exacerbates
our 40 minute deficit. Our stops at Culpepper, Manassas, And
Alexandria goes well, and we arrive almost on time into
Washington.

Washington:

During our stop, the crew informs the car inspectors of a
brake problem on the Café car. Several brake applications do
not resolve the problem, so they wind up putting the train
in emergency a few times. This apparently rectifies the
problem, and we depart almost 45 minutes down.

Passing Ivy city, I describe for Paul the famous Pennsy vs.
B&O locomotive races. Back in the old days, the
Pennsylvania's crack GG-1 powered Washington-New York
Congressional was scheduled to depart at the same time as
the B&O's National Limited, which was powered by a
president-class Pacific steam locomotive. With consists very
similar in size and weight, the race was on as soon as the
communication signals blasted their two short tweets. The
GG-1 would start drawing power to the BOP-BOP of popping
relays, While the Pacific chugged to catch up. Passing `K'
tower, both engineers were pulling for all they were worth,
but, as happens in arm-wrestling, the steam engine inched
ever so hopefully ahead, and than collapsed as the GG-1 drew
more amps from the overhead catenary and charged ahead,
leaving the steamer in the dust. It was a show one never
forgot, and one, I'm afraid I was born just a little too
late to see in person. The races were well depicted in
TRAINS magazine, and Dave Morgan wrote a memorable piece
concerning them entitled "Railroadings camptown races". Now
the B&O and Pennsylvania are fallen flags, gobbled up by
Amtrak, no more competitors, no more races. How much we have
lost in the name of progress!

Even without a competitor to race, our engineer peels back
the throttle on our P-42 duo, and by the time we clear Ivy
City we are well above 70 MPH. We make our brief stop at
Baltimore, then Wilmington, before arriving on Track # 2 at
30th street in Philadelphia.

30th St Philadelphia

Here we reverse the power-change of Sunday, going from
Diesel to electric. I had recorded the consist on a piece of
paper that got mislaid, so I don't have the number of our
replacement E-60. Paul And I run upstairs and gather a large
cache of SEPTA suburban timetables. We also [Paul's treat]
pick up what has become a regular Philadelphia indulgence,
a warm and tasty Auntie Anne's Pretzel we re-board, and depart
Philadelphia 30 minutes down. After a brief stop at Trenton,
we arrive in Newark, claim our baggage, and prepare to catch
an NJ Transit train back home to Westfield.

Epilogue:

Paul really enjoyed his first Amtrak trip. I think that, as
in his case, if most people who had never ridden a train try
it, they are likely to come back.

Lets see, it's T -3 months, and counting to my regular trip
to Chicago. Hopefully, I will finish the last two METRA
lines, and the `L'! Till next time.......