Beacon Rock is open from July 15, 2016 through February 1st, 2017. See note for more details. MORE INFO >>>

Beacon Rock will open for technical rock climbing starting July 15, 2016. The Peregrine Falcons have fledged and the areas from the southeast, south, southwest and west faces will be open for technical rock climbing. The northwest face with the exception of “stone soup” will be closed from the route “stone soup" to the hiking trail. The east face is permanently closed for the protection of rare species, cultural and historical resources. The hiking trail to the top of Beacon Rock is open year round.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

One of the earliest lines at Beacon, and considered a super-classic of the area. Quite adventurous for the grade, though the climbing itself is short and scrappy.

Right Gull starts from Snag Ledge and there are two popular options to reach the start of the route. The first is to climb the first pitch of SE Corner. The second and far better option would be to climb Little Wing and combine it with the first pitch of Right Gull without stopping to belay on Snag Ledge. This avoids the typical jam up of parties on Snag Ledge especially since it is not only the first belay on the SE Corner route but it is also a common rappel station for parties descending down from Jill's Thrill's belay anchors.

Right Gull can be climbed as per the original line but many locals have pieced together a much more enjoyable variation. Both the original and alternative routes will be described below.

RIGHT GULL ORIGINAL, 5.10a

P1: Climb SE Corner(5.7) or Little Wing(5.9) to Snag Ledge's bolted anchor. You can also skip the anchor and continue directly into the next pitch. 25m

P2: From the Snag Ledge anchors, move left, up and around a corner. Clip a piton, make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. Make another more airy step across to the next pillar and belay at the bolted anchors. 25m

P3: Climb up the thin crack on the right of the belay, protecting it early with small gear and passing a piton to a large ledge. Move slightly right and up following an offwidth to hand sized crack to another large ledge. Walk left along this ledge to find the bolted belay anchor. 20m

P4: Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an Oak tree. Climb past the tree and into another easier layback right facing corner. Another short step takes you to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 35m

RIGHT GULL ALTERNATE VARIATIONS 5.9

P1: Climb SE Corner(5.7) or Little Wing(5.9) to Snag Ledge's bolted anchor. You can also skip the anchor and continue directly into the next pitch. 25m

P2: From the Snag Ledge anchors, move left, up and around a corner. Clip a piton, make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. From here climb the crack directly above this pillar (VULCAN'S VARIATION, 5.8) to belay on the next ledge building an anchor with gear. 30m

P3: Move to the far left hand/fist crack and jam this to another large ledge with a bolted anchor, skip this anchor if you brought enough big cams and continue up. Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an Oak tree. Look to your left and spot the clean corner crack (MURIEL'S MEMOIR VARIATION, 5.9). Climb this finger crack to another ledge and follow a short step to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 50m

Note that you will want doubles in the 2", 3" and maybe 4" sizes if you intend to do this alternate variation as 3 pitches. Otherwise break P3 into 2 pitches by stopping at the bolted anchors.

Instead, continue up what Olson describes as Muriel's Memoir (5.9) which is actually the best climbing on the entire route by far, and is no harder than 5.8. Take this beautiful finger crack to a grassy ledge and belay off a sappy fir tree. Enjoy the view.

Location

Above and left of Little Wing, step across the pillar at the start of Fear of Flying