A chef who wants to learn

The Cliff House’s food has historically had a tough time living up to its dramatic setting.

Big changes are ahead for the Cliff House, where the food has never come close to matching the gorgeous ocean views. As we reported in Inside Scoop Wednesday, George Morrone, who earned four stars for his cooking at both Aqua and Fifth Floor, is taking over the kitchen.

Susie Biehler, who has been a public relations consultant to the restaurant for a decade, gave me a behind-the-stove look at how this transpired.

Biehler, who says her goal was always to make the food match the view, consulted with the owners and they decided to bring Morrone on board to consult and serve as the mentor to Brian O’Connor, the chef de cuisine at Sutro’s at the Cliff House.

O’Connor, unlike many chefs who let ego get in the way of education, bonded with his newfound mentor, and when the current sous chef gave notice, O’Connor offered to step aside, lower his salary and take over the sous chef position if Morrone would sign on full time.

I have immense respect for O’Connor; I’ve had his food at the Cliff House and his potential is evident, but unlike many talents, he needed an editor and further seasoning. Most chefs don’t realize what they don’t know, and never reach their potential. O’Connor displays a lot of insight and maturity, and a passion to excel. I suspect his self-imposed demotion will pay dividends in his future.

I’m looking forward to see what happens at the Cliff House; it might just become one of the most exciting dining destinations in the Bay Area for the food; the view would be an added bonus.