Walking into Joy Cioci’s Spring 2013 presentation was like being transported to a sandy, seaside world of lace, silk, pearls, and neoprene. Inspired by glamorous synchronized swimmers of the 1920s and 1930s, Cioci mixed luxurious fabrics with functional ones to create an eclectic collection that undulated back and forth between swank and sporty. Her fabrics were aquatic but not over-the-top or forced–stingray, reef, and water reflection prints were abstracted by their own boldness, while seashell and wave decorations on silky trousers and skirts were delicate and pretty.

However, for Cioci, a New York designer who works out of her Soho studio, the magic lay in the details. Flirty mesh racer stripes broke up reef print neoprene leggings, while macramé lace and crystal pleating added sumptuousness to a cropped organza jacket. Swim cap-inspired toppers as well as long gowns made of intricate lace or adorned with clusters of pearls, were feminine and indulgent, proving that no matter how talented Cioci is at working with neoprene, in her world beauty always dominates over function.