A fantastic new VF snaking its way up the steep valley wall.
Approach: Start at the car park next to cafe La Ciajota, at the W end of the Vallunga valley, just E of Selva in Val Gardena [1700m alt.]. From the car park, follow a gravelly track into the Vallunga pastures, bearing L at the first fork up through the pine woods. After about 20 minutes, turn L of the track beside a small cairn, and follow the path up through the trees to the foot of the cliffs. On your right is the cableway used by the Rifugio Stevia.
Route: Start at the foot of the rocky rib on the L. Scramble up a few metres to the start of the cable, then follow the steep rib on good rock with polished holds, followed by a short steep section on rungs, then a ladder. A comfortable grassy ledge leads L to the next section, where after a few very exposed moves the angle eases and a wooded slope is reached [1 h]. Walk easily past a dead pine to the next steep rocks, and after about 10 mins follow the cable L then back R in a steep and exposed position. After a short ladder bridge, climb a short wall and move up and L towards a steep corner. Climb the corner then a ladder to a ledge with a logbook. Finish to the L and exit onto grassy meadows [2 1/2h]. An obvious path leads to the Rifugio Stevia [2312m].
Descent:Follow path 17 [signposted to Selva] the after 20 mins branch L along path 17A and follow this steeply down zigzags through the forest. At a crossroads go L [this is path 26 but signs are not obvious] and contour round below steep cliffs until the car park can be glimpsed to the R. Turn R at a rock painted "Bar" and return to the car park.
Map: Tabacco 07 (1:25000) Alta Badia-Arabba-Marmolada

Fun route. Very exposed but the climbing is on good holds and the protection is modern and well done. Amazing views to be had. Unlike some VFs, this has no "muppet filter" at the start - it doesn't earn its grade until towards the end, with an excellent steep bridging pitch. Very busy when we did it.sarahlizzy - 31/Jul/11 with Syv

Good well protected route. Finishes near an excellent hut with home baking and fresh milk.prog99 - 13/Jul/11 with Fiona