EN Summary: This is the sewing review for Le511, one of the patterns included in the special issue magazine Mode&Travaux, featuring thirteen exclusive patterns from DP Studio. Keep reading the full review.

EN: I am very fortunate to have made good friends all over the world thanks to my sewing passion and this blog. When I heard about this magazine I reached out to one of my French friends, the very talented Isabelle who shares my love for sewing and knitting, author of the Fluffy Fibers blog&podcst. She promptly got me this almost sold out at the time special issue and the first garment I made form it was the asymmetric knit top with frill insets.

EN: The base pattern of this top is exactly the same as the Le003 dress that I've made a couple of weeks ago so I was sailing familiar waters. The only additions are the two overlapped frills along the diagonal seam across the front and back. I used golden ponte knit for this project (I am not sure I can call this ponte, because it has a good amount of cross grain stretch,... It didn't need a zipper on the back seam) and it turned out fabulous, just in time for wearing on NYE dinner with my family!

EN: The only issue with the pattern/instructions was the small frill that is supposed to be applied partially under the longer diagonal frill. The small frill has three sections, one is stitched along the diagonal front seam along with the top longer frill, the 2nd section is stitched to the shoulder and the third section is stitched along the sleeve cap/armhole. If I follow the placement instructions exactly, this pattern piece should be cut reversed on the fabric, yet the cutting layout doesn't indicate is as reversed, quite the opposite, so one of two things is wrong: the cutting layout or the writings on the pattern together with the instructions drawings. I ended up cutting the small frill reversed because there was enough fabric left for that, and I assembled it according to the directions written on the pattern and instructions.

CONCLUSION: The final result was outstanding and I highly recommend the pattern in spite of the small discrepancy on the cutting layout (unless somewhere along the way I miss interpreted something...). I also looked at another pattern in the magazine, the flared culottes with front box pleat, and I found another problem, this time on the pattern grading... The crotch curve was constant through all the sizes (!!), it was just shifted but it's dimensions remained the same. I guess the pattern grader inserted values as if he/she was grading a skirt and culottes are part skirt, part trousers,... the crotch curve should increase in length and depth with size. It will be OK for smaller sizes but, if I cut size 42 it will not fit on me for sure. I know enough to fix the pattern though (I have the DP Studio books and know how to draft the base culotte pattern for my size; then I just slash the pattern and close the darts, flaring at the bottom hem as on an A-line skirt, and add the front box pleat); I plan on making the culottes sometime soon.

I am showing this top before the completed blazer Le100 because I still didn't take the final photos of the blazer,... When I do, I will share the photos of the entire outfit on me (blazer, pants and top).

Popular posts from this blog

EN Summary:Today I have for you the Portuguese/ English translation of an excellent article written by the professional Couturier/Tailor Paco Peralta of Barcelona. Paco was so kind to review the professional techniques that he uses to construct the underlying structure of tailored garments and some of the main construction steps implied, focusing mainly on the construction of a tailored notched collar. As we all know, these are some of the most challenging aspects of tailoring. I congratulate him for his exceptional and thorough work and his invaluable contribution for all of us hobbyist dressmakers.---PT Sumário: Hoje tenho para vos apresentar a tradução para Português e Inglês de um excelente artigo da autoria do Costureiro/Alfaiate profissional Paco Peralta de Barcelona. O Paco fez um levantamento exaustivo das técnicas de confecção da estrutura interior que costuma aplicar nas jaquetas e casacos, com enfoque na gola e lapelas, que são um dos aspectos mais desafiantes da confecção …

EN Summary: After cleaning up the lining on the sleeves and sleeve vent, I couldn’t help myself and finished the cuffs. I recorded a short movie on Instagram which will give you an idea of how it looks :). Then I proceeded with setting in the sleeves by hand. Keep reading to find out about my progress so far!
--- PT Sumário: Depois de fazer o acabamento do forro nas mangas e na abertura dos punhos, não resisti a terminar o acabamento dos punhos. Gravei um vídeo no instagram que vos dará uma ideia de como fica. Depois passei à parte de coser as mangas à jaqueta à mão. Continuem a ler para verem o meu progresso até ao momento!