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Friday, 1 April 2016

Is every double Ikat a Telia Rumal

Ikat is a yarn resist technique wherein the yarns are tie-dyed, and on weaving a pattern is created on the surface of the fabric.

In single Ikat fabrics, either warp or weft is tie-dyed and woven with the other thread ( weft or warp) of solid color. In double Ikat, both warp and weft are tie-dyed according to a pre-determined pattern and then woven to create design on the fabric.

Double Ikat

Telia Rumal traditionally woven in Chirala, is originally a square constructed. However now the fabrics, or sarees are woven in this construction. A Telia -as it called today- is a double ikat construction with a typical color and design pattern.

The typical colors of Telias are Terracota red and black using natural dyes. The fabrics are mordanted with iron solution and alum so that on dyeing with alizarine, areas with iron become deep black and the ones with alum turned red.

As far as design is concerned, the layout of typical Telia comprise of a geometrical grid like patterning with borders all around, thereby creating small squares at the four corners.

There is also a confusion between Pochampally Ikat and Telia. Pochampally is a commercial application of Telia Rumal technique as well as patola technique of Gujarat. They use single, double or combined ikat techniques to produce sarees and fabric which are cost effective and popular.