Read me ~> Work
in continuous rounds, do not join.How to read the rows:
Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in
next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by
1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row.
The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you
should have at the end of that particular row.

Read me ~> It's
a good idea to add in a marker at the end of row 2 and move that marker
at the end of every row.

Supplies:Red Heart Comfort Color Code: 3133 4.5mm hook *use a smaller hook if you see gaps in your stitchesblunt end yarn needle for sewingscissors100% polyester stuffingfelt, paint, buttons, or yarn for eyes or safety eyes ( I used a 10mm safety eye)

How to make the muzzle, mouth and ears (in that order ~ starts at 32:15)

How to make the arms, legs and tail (in that order ~ starts at 44:37)

How to make the indents for the eyes. (starts at1:01:10)

How to glue in safety eyes and also how to add in buttons for eyes

How to sew it all together in the following order:

arms, legs then tail (in that order ~ starts at 1:10:04)

sew in muzzle and the mouth piece (in that order ~ starts at 1:18:43)

sew in the ears

Starting at the top of the head working down to bottom of body: 1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)2) 2sc in each (12) 3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)6) 1sc then 2sc in next st (45)7-15) 1sc in each st for 9 rows16) 2sc in next 6st, 1sc in next 6st, 2sc in next 6st, 1sc in next 27st (57)17-18) 1sc in each st for 2 rows19) (1sc in next 30st) then for the remaining st to the marker, 1sc in next 7st then 2tog (54)20) 1sc in next 7st then 2tog (48)21) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (40) 22) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (32)23) 1sc in each st for 1 row24) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (24) 25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)26)
1sc in each st for 1 row 27) 2sc in each st (36) *stuff the head, make sure to fill out those cheeks! You can add more stuffing as needed over the next few rows28-30) 1sc in each st for 3 rows31) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)32-34) 1sc in each st for 3 rows35) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)36) 1sc in each st for 1 row37) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)38) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)39) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18) * begin to stuff the body40) 1sc then 2tog (12) * stuff more as needed41) 1sc then 2tog (8) * stuff more as needed42)
2tog twice and f/o. Weave yarn tail in and out the remaining stitching
and pull tight to close the gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail in body.

Muzzle: 1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)2) 3sc in first st, 1sc in next 2st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 2st (10)3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (15)4) 1sc in next 2st, 2sc in next st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 5st, 3sc in next st, 2sc in next st, 1sc in next 4st (21)5) 1sc in each of the BLO for 1 row6-7) 1sc in each st for 2 rowssl st next st and f/o
leaving a long tail for sewing. Add in the nostrils before sewing muzzle to
head. Sew most of the muzzle in place then stuff before sewing on completely.

Mouth:1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) *begin with a long starting tail that you can sew into the head2) ch1 and turn, 1sc then 2sc in the next st (9)f/o leaving a long tail for sewingGlue in a piece of red felt for the tongue after the mouth has been sewn in placeEars: 1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)2) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)3) 1sc in each st 4) 1sc in the next 2st then 2sc in next st (12)5) 1sc in each st 6) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)7) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)8-9) 1sc in each st for 2 rowssl
st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Arms: 1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)2) 2sc in each (12)3) 1sc in the next 3st then 2sc in the next st (15)4-6) 1sc in each st for 3 rows7) 2tog 3 times then 1sc in the next 9st (12)8) 2tog twice then 1sc in the next 8st (10)9-16) 1sc in each st for 8 rows17)
1hdc in next 5st then sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for
sewing. Stuff hand, lightly stuff arm.

Legs 1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)2) 2sc in each (12)3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)5-7) 1sc in each st for 3 rows8) (2tog then 1sc in next st, repeat 6 times) 1sc in next 6st (18)9) (2tog then 1sc in next st, repeat 4 times) 1sc in next 6st (14)10) 1sc in the next 5st then 2tog (12)11-22) 1sc in each st for 12 rowssl st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff & shape foot and stuff leg.

Tail:1) ch16 *begin with a long starting tail that you can sew into the body when done2) 1sc then 2tog f/o leaving a tail for sewing. The tail should naturally curl but if not then hold one end of the tail and twist the other end.

Assembly: If
you assemble the doll in the order I give you then you will not have to
worry so much about centering the different parts as much. The time in
which the pieces are sewn in are listed in the video order just above
the pattern (scroll up)1) add in the indents for the eyes in between the 12th and 13th row with about 6 or 7 st between them. View video on how I did this. Time noted in the video order above.2) glue in the safety eyes or add in buttons3) Sew the arms on * sew 1 row down from the neck. Sew the top of the hdc to the body4)
sew on the legs. Turn the doll upside down and pin the legs in place then whip
stitch the top edge of the legs to the body. View the video on how to
do this. 5) sew on the tail6) sew on the muzzle * place top of muzzle just above the 16th row, use lots of pins so it doesn't move around when you sew it in place5) sew in the mouth6) sew on the ears7) click here for the dress and vest pattern8) enjoy your pig!

Click here to see a photo gallery of the pigs in their crochet clothes.

I glue all my eyes in after the doll has been stuffed and closed and I do not use the backs. They stay in place. I use fabric tac and I show how to glue them in the video. Time note in the video order list at the top of this pattern

If you put the legs on like the video, how can I get them to sit down? The video shows them standing up. I want them to sit down like the picture on the instructions show. Would I have to place the legs in front of the body?

in this photo they are just bent over. Don't put as much stuffing near the top of the leg. But you can also sc through both sides of the leg at the top right across, ch1 and turn then sc across one more time then sew the flap to the body. I show how to do this in my little sock monkey that sits in his wheelchair.scroll up a ways, look to the right for the label list and click on "Hospital Amigurumi"three patterns will pop up, scroll down to the sock monkey, there's 5 monkeys in the photo. Look in that pattern for the leg part and I explain it there. You can also look in that pattern for the video link, click on that and then once you are viewing the video, fast forward to 44:42 and there I show how to make the legs to sit down.

I noticed it doesn't say to repeat the sequence or the total # of stitches on row 2 for the mouth & tail, but the video indicates that it does repeat for the whole row. That was kinda confusing.I love this pattern - such an adorable little pig! My kids love it!

I'm glad you found the video helped you through.. my hope is always that the user finds the pattern clear. In the "Read Me" sections above the pattern I explain how to read the rows... and all repeats unless I indicate otherwise. I include photos and a video so if the written instruction isn't clear hopefully the photos or video are. Glad your children love the pig :)

Sharon, i love this piggy! Want to make it for my daughter. Hope i will succeed! But i have one question. Do i have to use acrylic yarn? Or can i also use cotton as well. I find it easier to use cotton. Hope I spelled the words right. My English isn't that well.

Just about finished my PIGGY. I can't thank you enough for all of your well written patterns. I hope you can visualize all of the smiley faces on Christmas morning. I will be giving them to the Salvation Army who in turn will be giving them out to children. I know I have a smiley face just making them. Just imagine all of the hugs you will be getting from the children along with one from me for giving me many happy hours of crocheting. Merry Christmas to you and all of your merry band of crocheters.

yes. If you were just doing a row of sc then do your best guess as to how many sc you put into the row and finish the row off, or if the last row you did ended with a 2tog then back it up to that 2tog and start that row over again.. If you were doing a sequence, like say 1sc in the next 2st then 2tog then back it up to your last 2tog and count how many stitches you have and then continue on the sequence until you have the right number of stitches for that row. The same works if you were doing an increase and were putting 2sc into one stitch, if so then back it up very slowly and watch carefully until you see the one stitch that has 2sc in it. Hope that helps!

in the "read me" sections I explain that no part of the pattern joins.. never join, always work in continuous rounds.Also in the "read me" section I explain how to read the rows. Every row repeats, so 1sc then 2sc in the next st means repeat 1sc then 2sc in the next st until the row ends and you should have 9st. If there is confusion just view the video. I do all of it in the video :)

Hi. First of all you add the (9) now. And in the mouth, ok not join but not continuous round, because you say "turn". Am I wrong? And it's true all is in the video, but I think that both must to say the same.I made wrong the mouth until I saw the video. In Spanish translation there is not any 9 too.Congratulations and thanks for your tutorial.

the video says the same as the English written pattern... I'm not sure how what is confusing you. The Spanish translation is not done by me, I do not speak Spanish.. if the translation is wrong I will tell the translator that it is wrong. Sorry you had troubles with the mouth

You should have been using a marker between rows 1 and 19.. just pull a piece of yarn through the last stitch you put in and move the marker at the end of every row.In the "read me" sections at the top of the pattern I do explain that and I also explain it in the video at the very start if that is confusing. Thanks for asking

Hello, I want to ask you for permission to translate your pattern to Czech language (only text including your rules and link to this page) and publish it on closed FB group about crocheting (or here, or somewhere else, if you want). Thank you in advance for your reply. Michal.

Can anyone tell me how to print a pattern without also printing all the comments along with it? This uses up so much extra paper and ink. Sharon, your patterns are all beautiful. I can hardly wait to crochet the pigs,etc..!

If you are using the print friendly button to print of the pattern then there shouldn't be any comments included. I have never had comments printed off with the pattern. The green print friendly is at the bottom of every pattern.Take the time to review the options you have once you click on that :)

Thank you very much, I'm so glad you like the patterns and will enjoy them. Happy crocheting!

Hi! :) May I ask if there is any way to make the pig's arms and legs shorter? I think that it might look fatter with their short arms and legs... :) But i'm afraid that the pig does not look good if I shorten them. so i really hope i could get your opinion. This is my first crochet after getting inspired by you and your tutorial videos! You're awesome. Thank you so much for the patterns! Love it :D

yes, you can leave out some of the rows in the arms between 9-16 and some rows between 11-22 of the legs. I can't tell you how many rows, you have to decide what looks good to you for the length. I hope that helps and thank you very much for the kind compliments :)

Hello, Sharon!Thanks a lot for this pattern. I've just finished a pig for my doughter. She is only 6m old, so I decided to embroider the eyes with some black yarn.I used 100% cotton yarn and it's thin, that's why my pig is less then 8 inches tall.Don't know how to post a pic. That's a link to it in my instagram https://instagram.com/p/4qzWzDpyKD/?taken-by=gurzashap

Hello Sharon Ojala....I have news! This was my first year to enter into our local County Fair. I used this pattern and the Little Big Foot Turtle pattern. I used a light weight sport yarn for the pig and she can out gorgeous! The turtle was done in light weight fingering yarn and I came out with the most wonderful teeny tiny turtle. The group of Amigurumi's were well received and hadn't been seen out here before...I won first place blue ribbon and Reserve Grand Champion. Just hope you do a happy dance, as I sure did. (no money involved just loved them ribbons). I'd love to send you pictures but don't know how.

Sharon, I can't thank you enough for these amazing and easy to follow patterns. My kids (4&3) keep picking one after another for me to make.lol. I'll have the whole collection before long.lol. They are amazing and very easy,and I love how you also have videos to explain things as well. Thank you☺️

I crocheted this pig for a friends little girl with the dresses to go with it. It turned out wonderfully and the little girl was so happy with it. Thank you for your pattern and the video! The video was so helpful when I wasn't sure what I was doing considering this was my first project like this. Thanks again! Can't wait to do the little Owl! I'm doing my soon to be born baby girls room is Owls!

I've used hot glue before, the only thing about that is you have to be so careful, once hot glue touches yarn you can not get it off. I've also used fabric glue, it takes a long time to dry but once dry it's super strong. I've also used regular tacky glue which dries faster than fabric glue and is also strong. All of those things worked great for me!Hope that helps

If you use hot glue and it makes a mess, get yourself some rubbing alcohol. Dampen a rag or cotton ball with the alcohol and dab it right onto the cooled, dry hot glue. The glue will lift right off! Easy peasy! :)

I guess my piggy is too fat because I tried the vest on it after row 15 and it was way too small. I restarted with a chain of 37 and think I need a little help with the rest of the pattern. I have completed the 10 rows of SC ...some assistance would be appreciated

I provided a video for the vest so that would be all the assistance I could provide there but I can add, the yarn you used for the vest must be the same weight as the yarn you used for the pig. If the yarn is a lighter weight then that would account for the smaller size. If you are unsure, do a gauge test.4 rows with the pig's yarn and 4 rows with the vest's yarn. If the vest yarn is smaller then you know what went wrong, it's a lighter weight yarn. Are they the same size? If so then follow the video I provided for the vest.. it could be a simple matter of missing stitches along the way. Keep careful watch where your hook is going.I hope this was helpful.

Gauge test:1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)2) 2sc in each (12)3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)

I am in the process of making the pig. I am too far along to start over but on future patterns could I use a hidden decrease instead of the 2tog for a smoother look? I don't know if this makes sense but following along with the video I noticed (once again too far along to change) that you are stitching from around the outside but when I started up making the head my stitches are being made from the inside. How did you manage to do that? Thanks.

After doing the muzzle I figured out that on the head at some point you turned it inside out so the stitches are approached from the outside rather than from the inside. It would be helpful in the written instructions if you added where that occurs and also on the muzzle and ears for those that follow the written pattern more than the video. Thanks.