Original Zen

Japan's West Coast is all about the centuries-old practice of taking it easy

By Ramona Flume

Published: May 31, 2012

I settle against the moss-covered rocks of the outdoor Japanese onsen, or natural hot springs, with a cold cup of sake and watch the snow fall around me. The Honshu mountains in the distance are blanketed in dark forests of ancient cedar trees. This rural region of Hokuriku is famous for its hospitality, and as I soak it all in, I think of the Japanese word I learned that morning: yukimizake. It means “to sit and sip sake while watching snow fall.”

Honestly. They have a word that specific. When it comes to relaxing, the Japanese truly think of everything.

The western prefectures, or districts, of Hokuriku feature traditional inns called ryokans, which originated in the Edo period (1603–1868), and today carry the torch of Japan’s centuries-old customs, hospitality and happiness. In fact, a study done in 2011 by Tokyo’s Hosei University found that Hokuriku’s three prefectures—Fukui, Toyama and Ishikawa—were the happiest regions in Japan.

This vibe is evident at Hoshi Ryokan, in Ishikawa. It’s listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s oldest hotel: 1,300 years through 46 generations of family.

On arrival at the ryokan, guests slip into traditional wooden sandals, or geta, then join a welcoming tea ceremony before changing into a Japanese Yukata, a comfortable kimono-like robe.

Dinner, or kaiseki, is authentically Japanese, consisting of several small courses ranging from freshly caught crab from the nearby Sea of Japan, to tempura-fried tofu and plum wine.
Pure gold is abundant in Ishikawa, which yields 99 percent of Japan’s gold leaf. Head to Hakuza boutique for everything from gold encrusted brownies to gold leaf facial masks.

Toyama boasts a bustling community of traditional artisans, including old-school woodcarvers, glassblowers and sake brewers. At the Masuda Shuzo brewery and inn, guests can sleep near 50,000 bottles of sake made with Hokuriku mountain water.