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In that thread I basically asked for suggestions for an old school project. It later turned out my grandfather had this 1400 DL sitting in a barn and was willing to 'donate it to the cause.' It's a 1976 1400 DL 4WD Wagon powered by a 1400cc (hence the name) boxer engine. We're going to build it up into a historic class rally car and detail the progress in Subiesport Magazine. Now, back to my regularly scheduled post:

============================

Okay, here are the first shots of the car. I went up today for a little recon to see just what what sitting in the barn--and what wasn't.

Replacement 36,000-mile EA63 engine

Engine goes here, apparently 75,000 on the odo (though I wont be suprised if it's really 175,000--but 75k is what my grandfather was told)

Currently powered by a small forklift

Did you know the 1400 DL has a "city" and a "country" horn volume control?

The rear is a bit loaded with parts from the original engine

Okay, now you've seen it. What do you think? Suggestions for where to go from here? Obviously we need to get it running. What would you do? Remember, I'd like it to be up and running (safely and reliably) in time for the June No Alibi TSD gravel rally

It's beautiful. I am very amazed at the lack of rust. It is hard to find soobs even from the '80s without a good deal of rust.
I sincerely hope you can get it running. How about a Weber conversion? I think the weakest point on carbed soobs is the Hitachi carb (or do you have something different)? I assume you have breaker points, it might be a good idea to convert to electronic ignition by using a 1984? EA81 disty (one which just has the two wires coming out of it).
Good Luck!!
After the rally - try to get the A/C working!!!

Any suggestions on getting rid of the underbody rust? For those that have done it before: should we just do it first (and suggestions on technique). Or should we get it running, then worry about the underbody rust?

rusted through or surface rust? things rusting through are often structural and especially if you plan to drive the car hard, should be fixed by welding in metal.

Since I'm guessing that you're going to have the car apart anyways, maybe take off the suspension, leave the motor/tranny out and put the shell up on some blocks or maybe even on its side with enough padding, and work on it like that. So in this case I would deal with it first. It might be an idea to get all the major bodywork done first and then start the mechanicals when everythings cleaned up and painted. Doing bodywork doesnt make for a great magazine article IMO cause its the same as any other car, so that might factor into decisions of whether it should be done first last or spread out through the build.

Other than putting it on a rotiserie I'd say your starting out right.Should be all surface rust for you folks out west.If you find some rot through,then weld in some metal after cutting the rot out to solid metal.

These cars are super simple to work on.You can have it all apart in a day or less and it'll be much lighter.You can then work on the engine and suspension/drive train much easier.

To do it right you need time and money.To fall short is a real shame so please consider all the costs before going all out.You might want to just have fun and keep the budget low.You'll probably be happier in the long run.You want glory?You have to plunk down the coin.

To be serious about running a car this old you MUST consider these:
new radiator
new tires
new suspension
new brakes
solid exhaust
new pumps
gasket kit for engine
new U-joints

To ignore any of these you'd be asking for trouble.And you'd end up on your butt.Spend a few hundred and you'll go a lot further.Treat it like a $50 joke car and it'll probably embarass you soon.

In that thread I basically asked for suggestions for an old school project. It later turned out my grandfather had this 1400 DL sitting in a barn and was willing to 'donate it to the cause.' It's a 1976 1400 DL 4WD Wagon powered by a 1400cc (hence the name) boxer engine. We're going to build it up into a historic class rally car and detail the progress in Subiesport Magazine. Now, back to my regularly scheduled post:

============================

Okay, here are the first shots of the car. I went up today for a little recon to see just what what sitting in the barn--and what wasn't.

Replacement 36,000-mile EA63 engine

Engine goes here, apparently 75,000 on the odo (though I wont be suprised if it's really 175,000--but 75k is what my grandfather was told)

Currently powered by a small forklift

Did you know the 1400 DL has a "city" and a "country" horn volume control?

The rear is a bit loaded with parts from the original engine

Okay, now you've seen it. What do you think? Suggestions for where to go from here? Obviously we need to get it running. What would you do? Remember, I'd like it to be up and running (safely and reliably) in time for the June No Alibi TSD gravel rally

this is a relly neat post.
the first car run by subaru in the usa was in class A in the 1974 (??) rally they used the 2dr coupes,,,, here is what a add run by subaru said after the rally

a Gruelling, punishing course: more thean 2000 miles of twists, turns, bumps, rocks, mud, muck, sand, and fallen trees. thats the total "press on regardless" rally. it takes its toll of cars and drivers alike. out of 87 starters, only 21 finished but for the front wheel drive subaru it was a smashing success.
two GL coupes blasted through the deep northern michigan forest and uppper peninsula wilderness to capture both first and second place in the class A competition.

it gos on a little more. anyway the licencs number was RBP 195 not shure what state,

i did some searching on the internet a long time ago and the car is still around. its even in washington or was when i was looking for info....

if it's already taken apart, and if framerail surgery doesn't scare you, you might see if an EJ22 swap will fit. much of what it will need just to run stock could easily apply to a swap; why not make it competitive now? you could put in a 5 speed, and the electric work in that car is so simple, it would basically be adding the EJ22 wiring, and splicing in a fuel pump.

I have found it more advantageous to use a rotary wire rust scale remover and apply a coating of POR 15 or similar

Good luck, real kewl project you have there

Skip,no danger is he removes all the items with bearings.In my opinion,to make his project a serious one he needs to remove the engine,tranny,suspension and wheel components and start from the unibody alone.Hence,a rotiserie job or as best as he can produce.

You have to understand that I live in an area with several top of the line restoration shops and they all blast the cars.My friend has recently oversought the restoration on his brother inlaw's Aston Martin DB5 and an Alfa GTV 6.The cars are in top shape and the DB5 won it's class at the Greenwich Concourse......big money car,beyond our wallets.Yes,it was blasted,albeit ever so gently given the aluminumn body,with engine all bearings removed,of course.

The main thing to consider is that the blaster or those thereafter completely wash the car's chassis/body out before setting any bearings back into the car.The GTV6 was done WITH the engine,etc. inplace but it was sealed in plastic and rinsed thoroughly.

I'm probably shooting for the stars here.I think your project is neat but I don't see where you're going to dump the proper amount of cash into it and get the results I personally would like to see.....a proper restoration of the unibody.

I'm sure you'll do a great job.Don't take my words as a cut on you,your project,or Skip's opinion.There's the backyard way and there's the money way.This is why my cars won't be done for a while.Must save coin.I refuse to spend as much time as needed to do it myself while raising children.You can't fall behind on THAT project.

I have found it more advantageous to use a rotary wirerust scale remover and apply a coating of POR 15or similar

Ah, good suggestion. And for everyone recommending tranny swaps...doing so will, in fact, make us less competitive. Once we do that, we're in open class with the STi's and much more experienced drivers. We'd get our assets handed to us on a silver platter.

Sticking to stock components will allow us to run in the Historic class--the only place this chassis really belongs.

that's just like the wagon I saw on my way to montreal yesterday... right between chateaugay and the trout river border crossing in upstate NY, sitting next to an abandoned building in literally the middle of nowhere... but it was green

that's just like the wagon I saw on my way to montreal yesterday... right between chateaugay and the trout river border crossing in upstate NY, sitting next to an abandoned building in literally the middle of nowhere... but it was green

I agree with SUBARU3 on not modifying, though just for the heck of it I would run the 14000cc engine
This car is more of a museum piece than a potiential hot-rod.
If you want to start modding, then get a newer one with a better front end (late EA71/EA81/EA82) cars would be a better choice. You will probably start tearing up the drivetrain if you drop too big an engine in there.
I don't blame you if you do decide to go for an EA71, because you may need the power and if the EA63 has head gasket issues (I am not aware of any).
Have Fun - that is the biggest upside to car restoration; you can drive the final product!!