Just speaking of the effect that these settings would have on the car...2mm ORH would allow the car to roll much deeper then 1mm ORH. Even on carpet I never run less then 1.5mm ORH and outside never under 2mm ORH. I would think 2mm to start both front and rear and then add as needed to either end of the car. If the car pushes off power then go to 2.5mm ORH in the rear and so on...

on a side note...VHT will change considerably as the tempature changes and as such may require some slight changes in the car to accommodation.

Also it is outdoor so tires are 95%...if you do not have a good tire saucing technique then all of the rest really does not matter. You could make changes all day long and never get the car faster if your tires are not being properly prepared. The difference between properly prepared tires and non can be as high as .5-1 sec per lap or more. There is more time in tire prep then in setup once you get close...this I am positive of!

Just speaking of the effect that these settings would have on the car...2mm ORH would allow the car to roll much deeper then 1mm ORH. Even on carpet I never run less then 1.5mm ORH and outside never under 2mm ORH. I would think 2mm to start both front and rear and then add as needed to either end of the car. If the car pushes off power then go to 2.5mm ORH in the rear and so on...

on a side note...VHT will change considerably as the tempature changes and as such may require some slight changes in the car to accommodation.

Also it is outdoor so tires are 95%...if you do not have a good tire saucing technique then all of the rest really does not matter. You could make changes all day long and never get the car faster if your tires are not being properly prepared. The difference between properly prepared tires and non can be as high as .5-1 sec per lap or more. There is more time in tire prep then in setup once you get close...this I am positive of!

The xray instruction manual says to run 6mm and 5mm droop front and rear doesnt it? I have tried 1.5mm and 2mm droop on outdoor asphalt and the car is undrivable. When the grip is up I can drop to 3mm or 4mm droop but needs alot of grip and smooth track.

The xray instruction manual says to run 6mm and 5mm droop front and rear doesnt it? I have tried 1.5mm and 2mm droop on outdoor asphalt and the car is undrivable. When the grip is up I can drop to 3mm or 4mm droop but needs alot of grip and smooth track.

The manual is telling you the settings on droop blocks. I think of droop as a weight transfer thing, more droop = more weight being transfered from front to rear under acceleration, or rear to front when braking or off power. I would think with your situation, med grip and bumpy track, you would want more ride height, not more droop. Check out the ask Paul L thread as the topic of measuring droop has been talked about quite a bit lately.

Hope I'm not totally wrong on this one, but that's how it makes sense in my head

The xray instruction manual says to run 6mm and 5mm droop front and rear doesnt it? I have tried 1.5mm and 2mm droop on outdoor asphalt and the car is undrivable. When the grip is up I can drop to 3mm or 4mm droop but needs alot of grip and smooth track.

Those values from the manual are for droop setup blocks, not values over ride height.

How much droop you can run really depends on your track and traction level. I race on very high traction asphalt and thus I run 1.5-2.5mm over ride height in the rear, and maybe 1mm over ride height in the front most of the time.

I have been told you can NOT use tires just off the setup board because of the air gap in the tires. You could use this if you used setup wheels...

Sorry but I'm confused how to do this....

Use your fingers to put pressure on top of the tires, while also using your thumb and pointer finger to lift up on the shock tower. Then slide a ride height gauge under the chassis again. It's hard to describe but you can do it with one hand.

Use your fingers to put pressure on top of the tires, while also using your thumb and pointer finger to lift up on the shock tower. Then slide a ride height gauge under the chassis again. It's hard to describe but you can do it with one hand.

Could you provide a picture or two? Just asking....

__________________
Wheeling an Xray T4 and T4 14 using a Ko Propo, powered by EA motors and Speed Passion Speedo, paid for by my wife.

"That is the way that would be perfect if the tire did not have air gap, when doing it that way you are measuring the tires flex as droop which is why you would end up with very little droop. when saying 2mm's above ride height i refer to the shock travel will allow the chassis to come up 2mm before topping out. you could use your method perfect if you were using set up wheels instead of race tires."

__________________
Wheeling an Xray T4 and T4 14 using a Ko Propo, powered by EA motors and Speed Passion Speedo, paid for by my wife.

Well I personally measure using droop blocks because it's easier. Doing it the way I described is just quick and easy to see where you are at, so I'm not worried about the air gap. You'd still want to use blocks to make sure your droop is the same on the left and right side of the car.

Well I personally measure using droop blocks because it's easier. Doing it the way I described is just quick and easy to see where you are at, so I'm not worried about the air gap. You'd still want to use blocks to make sure your droop is the same on the left and right side of the car.

But how do you translate 2mm over ride height to the Droop blocks?

__________________
Wheeling an Xray T4 and T4 14 using a Ko Propo, powered by EA motors and Speed Passion Speedo, paid for by my wife.

There is no easy way, because 2mm over ride height on a car with 5mm of ride height is going to measure different on the droop blocks than a car with 2mm over ride height on a car with 6mm ride height.