Apparently, there was a large batch of 'bad' B20 lifters made at some point that slowly worked its way through the Volvo OEM parts supply line. They're probably all gone by now, but they left a lingering pile of anecdotes, rituals, and general F.U.D behind.

I am thinking perhaps a very large batch. When I rebuilt my 1971 B20E the lifters had serious spalling on the contact face with the cam, so Volvo 'fixed' the problem some time after 1971. For what it is worth, I have read that the replacement OEM style lifters do not suffer the same problem. But, that is Internet wisdom - for what it is worth.

As to John V.'s comments, perhaps an option if you are starting off with Volvo's later lifters and you have access to a machine shop knowledgeable about solid lifters and rockers and that kind of stuff. That is becoming an increasingly rare commodity. At $8 for a resurface job it is cheaper than a set of the lightweight lifters and matching push rods; but, not a huge saving considering the overall cost of an engine re-build. However, original style lifters are available for $7.75 (VP Auto) so the only saving is the shipping cost (compared to a local machine shop) and if you plan ahead and get parts together then perhaps no saving at all.

I am thinking perhaps a very large batch. When I rebuilt my 1971 B20E the lifters had serious spalling on the contact face with the cam, so Volvo 'fixed' the problem some time after 1971. For what it is worth, I have read that the replacement OEM style lifters do not suffer the same problem. But, that is Internet wisdom - for what it is worth.

As to John V.'s comments, perhaps an option if you are starting off with Volvo's later lifters and you have access to a machine shop knowledgeable about solid lifters and rockers and that kind of stuff. That is becoming an increasingly rare commodity. At $8 for a resurface job it is cheaper than a set of the lightweight lifters and matching push rods; but, not a huge saving considering the overall cost of an engine re-build. However, original style lifters are available for $7.75 (VP Auto) so the only saving is the shipping cost (compared to a local machine shop) and if you plan ahead and get parts together then perhaps no saving at all.

VP auto? Who exactly is that? Not the notorious P who is notorious is it?

However, if you have an aversion to anything that starts with or contains VP, CVI, Skandix, IPD, and a whole bunch of Ebay vendors sell them for $8 or less. The replacement part # is 1218630 which cross references as the replacement to # 418423 which is the original part number. Volvo even lists it as an OEM part; but, at about twice the price of everyone else and its probably a special order if you try to get it from your dealer.

I would never in good conscience direct anybody to the other notorious John.

I'm tempted to agree, but with the distributor drive gear assembled 180 out, the dizzy on this is pointing at #4 as expected.

Ah. If the drive gear is 180 out, then someone assembled the distributor incorrectly such that the drive dog on the bottom end is 180 out. Then they, or someone, reinstalled the drive gear to hide the error.

Ah! Sorry to confuse you! The distributor drive gear is actually UNDER the distributor itself, so you put it in first! :-) you probably gave yourself quite a headache trying to put it in after.

If the concept of adding notes after the instruction confused you (notes on how to install the distributor gear after instructions to install the distributor), I'm sorry, reading must be new to you! Try picking up a book some time.

You don't, of course. But if you overhaul a distributor and then assemble it incorrectly such that the drive cog on the bottom is 180 out, one way to hide this error is to then remove the distributor, then remove the drive gear, reinstall the drive gear 180 out to counter the already-incorrectly assembled distributor, then reinstall the distributor. The end result is that the rotor points the way it's supposed to, but there are two 180 degree errors lurking below. It's quicker and simpler to switch the drive gear than the correct the dizzy. Not correct, but quick and easy.

Ah! Sorry to confuse you! The distributor drive gear is actually UNDER the distributor itself, so you put it in first! :-) you probably gave yourself quite a headache trying to put it in after.

If the concept of adding notes after the instruction confused you (notes on how to install the distributor gear after instructions to install the distributor), I'm sorry, reading must be new to you! Try picking up a book some time.

Try being a smart-ass to someone who hasn't built engines all his life. It was a semi-rhetorical question aimed at giving the author of that post a chance to clarify, which he did.
As for reading, I teach auto tech. I read.