Yeah, it looks like ä "sausage" on the pictures (front view), but it's a really crazy almost rounded triangular profile with this extra grip on the backside. feels great and it's quite light Also that centerpiece is some interresting material...

Still nothing big. working hard on my home, but hope to get seriously back to work on the car in april agian. Anyway, had a few spare-minutes so i spent them at the garage:Uninstalling the stabilizer-bar stuff

So i have them ready now for the Sandblaster and powdercoater

Also installed a nice fujitsubo calendar i got with some delivery from japan:

Well and then our local carneval started in front of my home, so i had to take a look and a few (or maybe more..) Beers over there:

They even had a wagon in the vintage "Jägermeister racing" livery, hahahaha

I asked RS watanabe in japan directly with the help of a few friends in japan, and they told me like this. I was a bit curious about it because there wasn't almost no information about it, so i thought i might ask them about the production date and numbers and that's what the guys at rs watanabe told me

Well in fact i had JDM-parts import company a few years ago, so i know almost every single part made in japan from about 1500 manufacturers (for all kind of cars). and i have good contacts in japan so when i need something they can order it for me and send it here. actually i don't offer this service to others anymore because i just don't have time to hassle with that these days...

A good source is always yahoo acutions japan and of course buy some japanese magazine like nostalgic hero or something and check the ads and stuff... if you're looking for something special let me know. but sadly the 510 don't have that big support as the Z's and C10s have, so it won't be too easy to find parts for your car...

And of course you need time. i'm looking for that kakimoto valve cover now for a while, but im sure when one is popping up i'll buy it

funny that you mentioned it actually, as I'm In the process of educating myself on that very same business type. Mainly importing complete datsuns to the west coast from Japan and Australia, but some parts. Whatever will fit within the shipping container. Any advice you'd care to share?

Well the C110 is at least supported by the Shakotan scene but anyway, even for the Z you find way more parts outside Japan then in japan itself, but i try to keep it as JDM as possible, just because im crazy

funny that you mentioned it actually, as I'm In the process of educating myself on that very same business type. Mainly importing complete datsuns to the west coast from Japan and Australia, but some parts. Whatever will fit within the shipping container. Any advice you'd care to share?

Either way, best of luck with your project!

-Datto

if you are going to export classics from oz try not to take many b110 coupes, i want them to be around when i'm older and not have to import them from japan! though we do have too many b110 utes so take them.dchil15

_________________Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar - Wrecked1986 Toyota MX73 CressidaAnything posted is the thoughts of this user and are not that of Scifleet Motors or any related company."Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."

Has been way too long since the last update, but finally i got back to work:1) Got a new shelve and cleaned up the mess in the garage:

2) decided to get some work done on the Engine - started to remove the valve cover and gasket:

Love the oldschool mechanics:

3) wanted to remove the cylinder head then but found out i need to read a bit before i start with that so i tried to turn the engine manually and it cranks smoothly with a torque-wrench, at least i know it turns - good to know:

Decided to give the engine dissasembly another attempt today, so started with removing the water pump:

Well looked quite messy inside. with some probably 10 year old water inside...

But after a quick cleanup it looked way better:

2) Next was the water pipe (not sure if this is the inlet or outlet pipe..)

3) and third that "chain cover" (not sure what it's really called ):

4) then off with the engine mounts:

5) Next was the Crank pulley which reffering to the manual just have to bee pulled of using a special tool.

... So i thought it also might work with a ball joint / Bearing removal tool.. but then i only broke the pulley.. doesn't matter because i want to replace it anyway. But now i have no idea how to remove it without that special tool. anyone has a Hint or Idea?

You can actually do that without the special tool but you will need an extra set of hands to make it easier.i always use a tire iron, gently push it between the back of the pully and the engine block then try to push the pully forwards, but do this on two sides of the pully at the same time. then turn the pully a quarter and push it forward again, and so on and so on untill it comes of.

Hope this makes sense, explaining it in english is harder than explaining it in dutch

ok i understand want you mean. After it broke i hammered with a soft rubber hammer on it and it felt like it's moving a bit, so probably i should give it another try.

I forgot to mention that i (of course) removed the main nut before i tried to pull the pulley out, just put it back to not loose it when i stopped work - just in case you wonder why the nut is still in place in the picture

if your working with the engine try to be extra cation, as some parts are easy to break and hard to find; for example the front cover, the crank and cam ( I know that they might exist but for large sums of cash ), to pull the crank I used a rubber mallet and a piece of wood, put the wood on the right side (behind) the pulley and hit it as soft as you can then go to the left side, keep alternating until your done, spraying wd-40 on the crank might help sliding the pulley. and don't ever never touch the camshaft tower bolts just leave them be, to remove the cam just remove the face plate, or simply press the cam backwards while rotating, and to be in the safe side spray some engine oil before removal to prevent metal to metal contact.

looking forward to see that z donewhat color are you gonna make it?if your working with the engine try to be extra cation, as some parts are easy to break and hard to find; for example the front cover, the crank and cam ( I know that they might exist but for large sums of cash ), to pull the crank I used a rubber mallet and a piece of wood, put the wood on the right side (behind) the pulley and hit it as soft as you can then go to the left side, keep alternating until your done, spraying wd-40 on the crank might help sliding the pulley. and don't ever never touch the camshaft tower bolts just leave them be, to remove the cam just remove the face plate, or simply press the cam backwards while rotating, and to be in the safe side spray some engine oil before removal to prevent metal to metal contact.

Thanks mate for your great inputs. will give it another try the newxt few days I'll definitly gona get it back to genuine datsun white (now its som more modern pearl-white )I don't plan to take the whole engine apart, just want to remove the head and bolt-on stuff to see in which condition the engine is inside and what modifications have been done previously. As soon as the chassis is done i will bring it to a local datsun engine specialist and have it rebuilt with a few goodies..