Thursday, August 27, 2009

DOBOS TORTE - THE DARING BAKERS

Every 27th of the month is synonymous of challenge and baking for the famous Daring Bakers.On this very special date, members of that "bakers' club" are asked to blog about the latest recipe they had to test. For everyone who is part of this group, it is always a very special and exciting time of the month as we are finally able to reveal our creations and see those of our fellow bakers.

August's Daring Bakers' Challenge has been picked by Lorraine at "Not Quite Nigella" (Australia) and Angela at "Spoonful of Sugar" (UK) who have chosen the famous "Dobos Torta", a Hungarian speciality...

This Kaffeehaus (Viennese café) cake is very popular in Hungary, but also in Slovakia. It was named after it's creator József C. Dobos (1847-1924) in 1884. The "Dobos Torta or Torte" is a five-layer sponge cake, that contains Chocolate buttercream and is topped with thin caramel slices. The sides of the cake are sometimes coated with ground hazelnuts, chestnuts, walnuts or almonds.

Although I have been fantasizing about making this wonderful cake since very long, the choice of that recipe just fell at the worst time of the year. Imagine baking a cake with buttercream when it's 36.4° C (97.52° F) outside and the himidity level is of 73% and you apartment is like a furnace... Either you have to be stark raving mad or living in an air-conditioned house. So, when you are under the weather, very sane and you place is hotter than than the entrails of Hell, then let me tell you that it's absolutely suicidal, exhausting and it's a real pain in the neck to bake something fancy like that!!!

This sweltering heatwave made everything more complicated (even what wasn't at the origin - like this cake) and transformed every little task into a big one.Not only did I lose 10 pounds while baking, but my cake was also showing signs of tiredness and melting before my eyes. After spreading a first layer of buttercream, I had to put my cake in the fridge for at least 30 minutes before I could continue adding the next layer. My incessant ballet between the fridge and the working counter was time-consuming and fatiguing. And to crown it all, my caramel didn't want to harden rapidly and prefered to start liquifying (due to the high humidity). Really nerve-racking!

After hours of fighting against the elements, I finally got my cake together. My biggest concern then was focused on the next step: immortalizing the "Dobos Torte". How was I going to take pictures of it in that heat? After getting it in and out of the fridge at regular intervals in order to avoid a total disaster (melted buttercream and suffering cake), I was more or less able to take a few decent shots.

I can tell you that after having taken my last picture of this cake (or impending doom LOL), I felt kaput, as if I had run a marathon or crossed a desert by foot. The whole experience was so laborious and nearly traumatizing. Anyway, I ended up with a presentable "Dobos Torte" that tasted heavenly, so all that suffering was not in vain!

I must say that I was very proud of my accomplishment as I was not only able to beat the heat, but also it's devastating effects and learnt how to deal with it all. Those long hours of sweating, panicking and trying to find ways to overcome the difficulties linked to the scortching heat made me a stronger baker. My "Dobos Torte" still ended up looking and tasting great no matter the obstacles.

I followed the recipe to the letter, but decided to make extra thin sponge cake layers and produced seven rounds instead of six. I also used half the quantity more buttercream that I flavored with tonka bean.All that resulted in a cake that wassmooth like a pillow, ambrosially chocolatty (with a little twist of tonka) and to die for.

I really want to thank Lorraine and Angela for having chosen that long-craved Hungarian treat and helped me "master" the art of baking while going through a heatwave!!!

Equipment2 baking sheets9” (23cm) springform tin and 8” (21cm) cake tin, for templatesMixing bowls (1 medium, 1 large)A sieveA double boiler (a large saucepan plus a large heat-proof mixing bowl which fits snugly over the top of the pan)A small saucepanA whisk (you could use a balloon whisk for the entire cake, but an electric hand whisk or stand mixer will make life much easier)A metal offset spatulaA sharp knifeA 7 1/2” cardboard cake round, or just build cake on the base of a sprinfrom tin.A piping bag and tip, optional

Method:1. Position the racks in the top and centre thirds of the oven and heat to 400° F (200° C).2. Cut six pieces of parchment paper to fit the baking sheets. Using the bottom of a 9" (23cm) springform tin as a template and a dark pencil or a pen, trace a circle on each of the papers, and turn them over (the circle should be visible from the other side, so that the graphite or ink doesn't touch the cake batter).3. Beat the egg yolks, 2/3 cup (81g) of the confectioner's (icing) sugar, and the vanilla in a medium bowl with a mixer on high speed until the mixture is thick, pale yellow and forms a thick ribbon when the beaters are lifted a few inches above the batter, about 3 minutes. (You can do this step with a balloon whisk if you don't have a mixer.)4. In another bowl, using clean beaters, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the remaining 2/3 cup (81g) of confectioner's (icing)sugar until the whites form stiff, shiny peaks. Using a large rubber spatula, stir about 1/4 of the beaten whites into the egg yolk mixture, then fold in the remainder, leaving a few wisps of white visible. Combine the flour and salt. Sift half the flour over the eggs, and fold in; repeat with the remaining flour.5. Line one of the baking sheets with a circle-marked paper. Using a small offset spatula, spread about 3/4cup of the batter in an even layer, filling in the traced circle on one baking sheet. Bake on the top rack for 5 minutes, until the cake springs back when pressed gently in the centre and the edges are lightly browned. While this cake bakes, repeat the process on the other baking sheet, placing it on the centre rack. When the first cake is done, move the second cake to the top rack. Invert the first cake onto a flat surface and carefully peel off the paper. Slide the cake layer back onto the paper and let stand until cool. Rinse the baking sheet under cold running water to cool, and dry it before lining with another parchment. Continue with the remaining papers and batter to make a total of six layers. Completely cool the layers. Using an 8" springform pan bottom or plate as a template, trim each cake layer into a neat round. (A small serrated knife is best for this task).

Remarks:The sponge layers can be prepared in advance and stored, interleaved with parchment paper and well-wrapped, in the fridge, overnight.CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM

Ingredients:4 Large eggs, at room temperature1 Cup (200g) Caster (ultrafine or superfine white) sugar4oz (110g) Bakers chocolate or your favourite dark chocolate, finely chopped2 Sticks plus 2 Tbs (250g) Unsalted butter, at room temperature.Method:1. Prepare a double-boiler: quarter-fill a large saucepan with water and bring it to a boil.2. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs with the sugar until pale and thickened, about five minutes. You can use a balloon whisk or electric hand mixer for this.3. Fit bowl over the boiling water in the saucepan (water should not touch bowl) and lower the heat to a brisk simmer. Cook the egg mixture, whisking constantly, for 2-3 minutes until you see it starting to thicken a bit. Whisk in the finely chopped chocolate and cook, stirring, for a further 2-3 minutes.4. Scrape the chocolate mixture into a medium bowl and leave to cool to room temperature. It should be quite thick and sticky in consistency.5. When cool, beat in the soft butter, a small piece (about 2 tablespoons/30g) at a time. An electric hand mixer is great here, but it is possible to beat the butter in with a spatula if it is soft enough. You should end up with a thick, velvety chocolate buttercream. Chill while you make the caramel topping.

Remarks:The buttercream can be prepared in advance and stored in the fridge for up to 5 days.If you're in Winter just now your butter might not soften enough at room temperature, which leads to lumps forming in the buttercream. Make sure the butter is of a very soft texture I.e. running a knife through it will provide little resistance, before you try to beat it into the chocolate mixture. Also, if you beat the butter in while the chocolate mixture is hot you'll end up with more of a ganache than a buttercream!

CARAMEL TOPPING

Ingredients:1 cup (200g) Caster (superfine or ultrafine white) sugar12 Tbs (180ml/g) water8 Tsp (40g) Lemon juice1 Tbs Neutral oil (e.g. grapeseed, rice bran, sunflower)Method:1. Choose the best-looking cake layer for the caramel top. To make the caramel topping: Line a jellyroll pan with parchment paper and butter the paper. Place the reserved cake layer on the paper. Score the cake into 12 equal wedges. Lightly oil a thin, sharp knife and an offset metal spatula.2. Stir the sugar, water and lemon juice in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over a medium heat, stirring often to dissolve the sugar. Once dissolved into a smooth syrup, turn the heat up to high and boil without stirring, swirling the pan by the handle occasionally and washing down any sugar crystals on the sides of the pan with a wet brush until the syrup has turned into an amber-coloured caramel.

3. The top layer is perhaps the hardest part of the whole cake so make sure you have a oiled, hot offset spatula ready. I also find it helps if the cake layer hasn't just been taken out of the refrigerator. I made mine ahead of time and the cake layer was cold and the toffee set very, very quickly—too quickly for me to spread it. Immediately pour all of the hot caramel over the cake layer. You will have some leftover most probably but more is better than less and you can always make nice toffee pattern using the extra to decorate. Using the offset spatula, quickly spread the caramel evenly to the edge of the cake layer. Let cool until beginning to set, about 30 seconds. Using the tip of the hot oiled knife (keep re-oiling this with a pastry brush between cutting), cut through the scored marks to divide the caramel layer into 12 equal wedges. Cool another minute or so, then use the edge of the knife to completely cut and separate the wedges using one firm slice movement (rather than rocking back and forth which may produce toffee strands). Cool completely.

Remarks:I recommend cutting, rather than scoring, the cake layer into wedges before covering in caramel (reform them into a round). If you have an 8” silicon round form, then I highly recommend placing the wedges in that for easy removal later and it also ensures that the caramel stays on the cake layer. Once set, use a very sharp knife to separate the wedges.ASSEMBLING THE DOBOS TORTE

Method:1. Divide the buttercream into six equal parts.2. Place a dab of chocolate buttercream on the middle of a 7 1/2” cardboard round and top with one cake layer. Spread the layer with one part of the chocolate icing. Repeat with 4 more cake layers. Spread the remaining icing on the sides of the cake.3. Optional: press the finely chopped hazelnuts (1/2 Cup (50g) roasted, peeled and finely chopped hazelnuts) onto the sides of the cake.4. Propping a hazelnut under each wedge so that it sits at an angle, arrange the wedges on top of the cake in a spoke pattern. If you have any leftover buttercream, you can pipe rosettes under each hazelnut or a large rosette in the centre of the cake.STORAGERefrigerate the cake under a cake dome until the icing is set, about 2 hours. Let slices come to room temperature for the best possible flavour.I should also note that the cake will cut more cleanly when chilled.

Wow! You are quite the champion for your successful and stunningly beautiful completion of the challenge. :) Looks wonderful. Time slipped away from me and I will have to do mine this weekend. Big bummer on my lack of time management!

Oh, Dobos torte is SO good. I used to make this but my filling wasn't quite so chocolaty. I even made a wedding cake once using my Dobos Torte recipe ... it was a HUGE hit. Haven't made this in AGES. I should give it another whirl.

Wow so beautiful and the photos are superb. You really are one of the most DARING Daring Bakers in the forums. What an effort you did not this and you learnt how to handle high temperatures while making the buttercream. In Australia it is winter (only about 20-30C) so we had it a little easier. Just love that last pix you are a wonder and it is such a joy visiting your blog you are an inspiration to all. Cheers from Audax in Australia

Stunning! Absolutely stunning! Your description of your working conditions and trials were wonderfully vivid but (teaser) made me think I was going to see something all slippery and messy! But wow did you create a beauty! I'll bet it tasted wonderful!

My goodness, sounds like you ran a dobos torte marathon! On the plus side, I'm sure you burned off as many calories as are in the cake so now you can indulge to your heart's content ;-) Looks delicious!

You should be very proud of yourself, Rosa! I baked my first test Dobos in the middle of a heatwave, too, and I also had to chill it between layers (I've never seen a cake slither around so much before) but I was sure that everyone would prevail no matter what craziness the weather was giving them!

Your Dobos looks fantastic! I love the roughly chopped nuts that you decorated the sides with. I wish I'd done that, but I was lazy and just bought a packet of pre-chopped!!

LOL If only I could lose 10 pounds everytime I bake, but instead I gain =( Serioursly, despite the drastic heat wave, I think your cake turned out beautiful. LOL I agree with you, this cake has really challenged my baking abilities, I can't wait for the next one =D

Wow Rosa!! That sounds like my idea of a living hell! I can't deal with heat much over 80°F (27°C) haha! But look on the bright side - by losing 10 pounds you could eat the whole torte! VERY well done... esp in light of your challenging set up. :)

Yeah, the weather can really mess with your baking, can't it? But honestly, looking at your cake, you cannot tell that you had any difficulty while making it whatsoever. The layers, the filling, the top, look absolutely perfect.

Aw, Rosa, I also despise baking in unbearably-hot temperatures. But the fact that you lost 10 pounds baking that gorgeous masterpiece, will, in turn, allow you to savor every last, sinful calorie, without an ounce of guilt.

Well Done! Finally I saw someone to make the original and traditional recipe :) I was horrified what I saw as Dobos cake on the internet, but yours looks nice and probably taste good too! Two tiny things which makes this recipe even better :) 1, for the cream you should warm the eggs and the sugar to 80C° on double boiler and then beat until cool, than the rest with the chocolate and the butter as you wrote it. 2 the top caramel, you only need sugar no need to put water in it, maybe a tiny bit of vinegar, to work easier with the caramel.