The red LED on the icemaker control panel is blinking (this is just for the icemaker itself - not the whole fridge), and we've got no ice. I disassembled the motor assembly - the gear and so forth look OK - no broken teeth, cam assembly appears to be fine, etc.

Without having a voltmeter on hand (I'm in the process of moving and it's packed away), is there any way to determine the problem?

Thanks Pegi. I ran through the optics diagnostics (2002) and they are working fine. I need to jumper the T and H to start a harvest cycle, but I don't have a jumper. Can I pick this up somewhere, or can I just use regular small guage wire to create a jumper?

Thanks spud - but since the optics check out OK (holding flapper closed, I get a steady lamp), I think this indicates a problem in other areas such as the motor assembly. Will need to dig out my voltmeter and pick up or create a jumper to do testing, methinks...

Pegi wrote: We use solid strand insulated copper with the ends stripped back....common problem with these systems is the water tube thru the top of the freezer cloggs with ice, have you checked this??
Hi Pegi:

I took a couple of strands of copper-cored speaker wire and used that (4 strands per jumper to increase the diameter to match the jumper holes) - should have conducted easily. I observed no action, no movement, no harvest cycle.

I have not checked the water tube - according to the manual, most of the water line lies outside of the freezer liner and inside the fridge housing, so not sure how to get to it. The water nozzle inside the freezer seems OK - but could be clogged in a non-visible spot before exiting the liner, I suppose. Anyway I can test this?

Not sure that would be thick enough to make contact...remember the emmiter/receiver boards must be working and the door switch closed to jumper the ice maker....open door switch kills the ice maker circuit....reach up and squeeze the thru tube, see if you feel ice crunching...

Well, I did manage to pick up some wire to make a solid jumper, and tried that w/ the T and H (steady lamp with emitter door taped down just to be sure). No harvest cycle. I don't have the equipment to jumper the individual wires in the harness - at least, not without destroying them in the process and adding to the repair work.

At this stage, since the optics test was OK but I can't get a harvest cycle, I'm thinking about just replacing the motor assembly (or the entire icemaker unit) and possibly the receiver board.

don't forget about the frozen fill line that also could stop the water from coming into the ice maker since it is mounted into the frount of the freezer, the black filler tube could be frozen, and not allow water to enter the ice maker!!!!!

Thanks fixum - I checked the tube section that extends into the freezer unit and it's OK. Probably a good idea to check it further up to see if it's frozen along the path outside that area, if I can get to it.

Sorry to bring this thread back to life but I had an additional question.

What could be the cause if the ice-maker does not STOP making ice? Obviously the ice-maker works and the sensor kit has already been replaced so am I right in assuming it is the board or am I missing something?

Regular ice maker with the ice bin in the door...only thing that shuts the ice maker off is the ice blocks the beam from the emmiter board to the reciever board...not a bad thing in the summer when you can bag and sell the extra....lol....but might be a problem now....I do not know what else could cause it to not stop popping cubes into the bin......assuming you have the same type/ model Whirlpool made frig as the original post was about?

Same system....ice maker does not have any shut off arm so cannot shut off itself...the emmiter reciever boards control turning the ice maker off when the beam is blocked by the ice in the bin in the door..