They were tested on the breadboard on a try-error test and for the 220v of my home line the valours of the elements, ligth bright the leds and get about 2.9 on each led,wich is safe for a long life of the led

If your local line is 110v then you need two .047uf capacitors

The leds are connected in serie one behind the other,and the other components are connected according the graphic on pic 3

Step 3: Installing the Leds

Mark dividing the lid on 8 drill a 5mm hole on each line,then drill 8 holes in betwen lines,and one on the center ,pic1

Put the leds around taken care of the cathode of one led facing the anode of the next one,and so one until we get to the center ,pic2

Cut the led's leg to reach the next one ,and then sold them, pic3

Step 4: Enssambling and Testing

Cut a plastic circle in order to install it in betwen both lids,to insulate the leds from possible unwanted contacts

Unite the parts with some rounds of tape,pass previously the wire throw the upper lid's hole

Step 5: Installing

Attach the magnet to the ligth,then put them on the best position to illuminate the base of the drill press, the magnet will do it's job holding firmly the ligth

Pass the wire along the original wires,get inside the switch and connect to the on position

Push the on switch and ,voilá, the ligth was done

Hope is usefull for someone who need light on a working place,if so don't forget to vote for the contest . Thank You

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5 Comments

I've been planning on 2..3 (to avoid shadows) LED lamps on my drill press for a good while now, but will probably use a battery, as I want them to have magnetic mounts as well and that doesn't go well with hard-wired mains IMO.

Hard-wiring needs rigidly mounted lamps and I'd like to be able to re-position and/or remove them at will, without needing disassembly.

Either way, light really helps (and I usually wear a headlamp for it). For a hardwired solution like yours, you can get by with less LEDs, if you feed them more current - increasing the dropper cap to around 330nF (0.33µF) would be good for 16.8mA in 17 LEDs on 220V @ 50Hz and it really ought to be an X-class cap. If you use 5 LEDs, a 220nF cap will give you ~14mA in the string.

Personally, I'd go for around 25mA in a 3-LED string (which takes 380nF total e.g. 330nF//47nF). It will lessen the lifetime of the LEDs somewhat, but they'll still out-live your drill press :)

As is, each LED is getting a meager ~2.4mA!

A high value bleeder resistor should go over the cap (in parallel) or better 2 series connected resistors (still in parallel with the cap), as the common resistors are rated for 200V and the peaks are over 300V.

The 15 Ohm resistor should be around 100..200 Ohm (it's what protects the capacitor from a too large inrush current, when switched on at one of the peaks of the mains waveform)