>>66237014As a bonus for suffering my shitty phone photo skills and rotational problems - have one of two Siege Dreadnoughts I have under construction. Maybe I'll make a lightbox if I have time. Or buy a cheap one. Sadly I have no camera beyond my shit tier phone.

>>66236262>tfw watching endless videos on building, sculpting, painting, basing etc and browsing online stores for things you arent even close to requiring yet>tfw the minis all this 'prep' is actually for, just sit there weeks on end unfinished

The worst part is, even when i do wanna work on em, my time is spent trying to figure out the perfect conversion idea or just sanding and fitting a couple of bits for an hour.

>>66237032Thanks. They all still need sanding, filling and final mold line checks before they're ready for priming. I thought my Atlantis Minotaurs were big but the Zealot boys make them look tiny. Sadly I don't have any GW Taurs for scale but the Atlantis ones are on 40mm bases and the Zealot ones are... 50mm I think.

>>66237417if i (a bad painter) was going to try to replicate that, I'd airbrush the whole model with gloss black enamel, airbrush alclad chrome over the top, then dab some heavily thinned black and brown oil paint into the details and a blue acrylic wash on the armor. finish with tamiya weathering pastels on the gun barrel

>>66237417This one by Massive Voodoo looks pretty good:https://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2010/02/tutorial-painting-true-metallic-metal.htmlThis one looks a little simpler on the execution, so maybe better as a starting point:https://www.lightminiatures.com/tutorial-true-metallic-metals/

>>66237417Actually, I think they used A LOT of thinned paint with a touch of flow improver, rather than actual brand washes. The only tip I can really remember is that you need to start with the paler colours, like yellow, and work up to the darker ones.

I mean for all I know the dude commissioned them three times, there's no accounting for taste. Just seems like a criminal misuse of a $200 tool to do a large spray once or twice on each panel and call it good.

>>66238462>You can't take a bolt pistol and a TH+SS can you?In the original Index Imperium: I, no, you couldn't. However, once the actual codices started coming out, the revised entry says a Captain comes bog-standard with a chainsword, master-crafted bolt gun, *and* a bolt pistol. You swap the chainsword for a storm shield, and swap the master-crafted bolt gun for a thunder hammer; that leaves you with the pistol and some grenades as your ranged attacks.

>>66238741>i wonder why the martian dust.It's a common tactic used by commission painters>Do you want OSL / Grime / dust on the base / lower part of the model? It looks so cool and realEr sure?>Fuck yes

So guess what, Mr commission doesn't have to bother with shading, highlighting the bottom 3rd of the mini, it's covered in texture paint / pigment / OSL, saves so much time and effort

>>66236797If you have an airbrush I would weather a bit more grey above the current grey chunks. Also give the lamp a brown wash and then highlight, right now it's shit compared to the rest. I like the colours and stripes - I would love to see an infantry platoon to go with it!

Does anyone know where I could possibly find some stencils for miniatures? I’m working on a couple armigers and I’m wanting to just airbrush the lettering for their names on their tops but I need really fucking small stencils.

Also here’s a tiny picture of a porpherion just to emphasize my need for small.

From leddit:Speaking to the 'eavy metal painters at Warhammer Fest 2019 I had a few interesting questions answered:

Q: Do you have to use all Citadel/Forgeworld paints/equipment?A: Generally, yes, although we do use Windsor & Newton Series 7 brushes (although the Citadel Artificer brushes are basically very similar, so some prefer those)

Q: Do you work with the finecast models? How do you find the detail?A: We use the master version to paint for the box art, so sometimes finecast (because of the process) will lose it's detail, so what the 'eavy metal team paint usually has way more detail.

Q: Do you also have to build & clean the models?A: It varies. Sometimes. Not always.

Q: Where do you stand on the whole dropper bottles / Citadel tubs issue?A: Neither here nor there. Generally people use the standard tubs, but it can be personal preference for the painter.

Q: Do you all use a wet palette?A: Not everyone. Some do, some don't - it's up to the painter.

Q: Do you have magnifying goggles?A: Nope, but again, this is down to the painter - some might.

Q: Do you still have loads of older paints, or do you have to use the current range?A: Those who have been painting with GW for a long time tend to have drawers and drawers of older paints, but generally in order to facilitate tutorials and walkthroughs etc (as well as the box-art guides) we have to use the current range (but the woman I spoke with did say she had a green colour in her drawer from a while back that she LOVES)

Q: What do you make of the new Contrast range?A: The painter I spoke to most hand't used them yet but some of the painters had, and there seemed to be a general consensus that they were great and posed a good opportunity for blending and such. The new Contrast paint doesn't work well with water though so you will have to buy the medium to thin it for glazing and blending. I also asked if it behaved more like an oil wash, filling recesses and most who I asked responded that it did.

>>66236326It seems doable. There are plenty of guides on making clothes for dolls, and that's basically what you'd be doing. Maybe fill in the joint gaps anywhere they aren't covered, and sand/smooth those areas over.

Bros, im seething. I was following a guide for yellow and i started with choas black prime and then i was going to spray averland sunset. The spray came out hit the model very watery/bubbly and looks thick as fuck when it dried.The black primer went on perfectly and its good spray weather.Where did i fuck up? Not enough shaking?

>>66240484interestingly I had the same issue years back, with a different yellow primer, army painter. I think it does have to do with the yellow pigment really needing a ton of shaking. That or you got a defective fucked up batch.

>>66236639I don't know if it's for you but I paint a flat yellow, shade with extremely thin burnt umber then glaze everything with a bright yellow. Obviously much easier with an airbrush on a vehicle but she technique with hand painting. The weathering comes after but important not to just totally wash the yellow as it just makes it look messy rather than weathered. Lots of other better ways though I'm sure.

>>66240570>>66240531I just shook the can for 2 minutes and tested on a cultist and it looks like the same result. Do I take it back to my LGS and get it refunded? Do i try to get them to replace my models lol

GW paint isn't primer, aka it doesn't "shrink" over the model when it dries, if you spray it on thick it stays thick so be careful, however here are my general srpaying tips.

1. Shake shake shake that can for at least 2 minutes2. Soak the can in a tub / jar / container of hot water, shake the can once or twice, put it back it, take it out, the container should be warm to touch3. follow instructions, hold at a distance, spray in good light so you can see everything and not miss anything, spray in short bursts

>>66240965Of the two, I'd have to say the brown, but that's only because the contrast with the green against the rest of the base (and maybe the model, too - very few of my ladz are yellow!) bothers me. Of course, your bases are a lot more complex than mine.

Hey /wip/, I need some advice on drilling the barrels on my Thousand Sons Rubric Gunner's Soulreaper Cannon. It has the rotating Gatling/minigun barrels, and there's a larger barrel-shaped bit at the bottom that protrudes. Is that an elongated barrel or does it keep the rotating barrels attached?

What I'm really asking is: if I drill my barrels out, do I drill out the longer gold barrel (if it's a barrel)?

Pic related, bottom bit is longer than the rest and I haven't found d a reference image that confirms it's a barrel.

>>66236993And shade before you highlight. If your skills are not yet very advanced, the quickest way to do it is put a dark wash over the whole thing, wait for it to dry, and then drybrush the whole thing with pale tan or something.

so my cheap airbrush hose finally died, gonna grab another one sometime when i get to harbor freight next. in the mean time i have a paasche talon that has been giving me trouble, sprays for a few seconds then starts not spraying then fills the cup with bubbles but them starts to leak out the back near the trigger and it bubbles out of the cup. i have gones and cleaned all of the airbrush and it still leaks, one of the o rings is missing but i have sealed that with teflon tape and no air appears to be leaking. any help? should i take it to a local airbrush store?

>>66241518>if I drill my barrels out, do I drill out the longer gold barrel (if it's a barrel)?Yes. The bullets come out of the gold part. They don't come out of the silver part except to then pass through the gold part toward your target.

>>66241518so that is the barrel that shoots out bullets,the barrel spins around and only shoots one bullet out of that barrel. drill out all the barrels, if you have access to it try and make an awl out of a small needle on a belt sander that's sharp will help to guide the drill bit and keep it from wandering

>>66236797Solid paintjob, the dirt at the bottom could be on bigger area. The assembly is kinda shoddy there mold lines on barrel and visible gaps. But great for a first vehicle overall. Mine first was over the top dirty.

Working on some little personal touches to my Lord Discordant.Thought fusing the rider together would be cool. Taking a while, though. I have very quickly learned to let cabled cure and go at it a bit at a time because I'm an idiot.

I just got a ton of Sprues and Bits for $15, including Magnus' Armor and Sword, two Magnus Heads, enough Bolters and Chainswords to equip a full Tzaangor squad, and plenty of Lizardmen bits to give my Thousand Sons some Salamander-esque Tabbards, Capes, and Pauldrons.Oh, and several heads and other bits for my Tzeentch Soup Army.

>>66239871If you're willing to go with transfers instead of stencils, you can get transfer paper remarkably cheap. Make sure you get the right stuff (there are Inkjet and Laser versions). But it lets you print off shitloads of stuff for remarkably cheap - one 8.5x11 "letter"/A4 page will get you enough for an army and then some. You can also do large strips of things like hazard stripes, dags, and checkers for throwing at flat plates instead of having to stencil them all on or worse yet, freehand it.

>>66241697>Somehow I can't understand how I've never seen corrugated cardboard used as corrugated iron before.I used to do it a lot before I switched over to actually corrugating aluminum cans. You can use one of those "toothpaste tube squeezers", get a steel one off of Amazon for about $10. I was too broke for that for a few months, so I made a weird little tool out of tongue depressors, which got me the stuff in pic related. You'll also need a pair of tin snips or the like; heavy-duty kitchen shears are ~$5 at Harbor Freight as well.

>>66242859Tool itself in action. Whole thing took me about half an hour of work, lasted for three months, and cranked out several square feet of corrugated aluminum for the commission I was working on.

>The whole point of Contrast is to eliminate the base coat step, that's it, it's a base coat and recess shade in one application>Think you're making a clever point when you're just providing an example of why you'd use the new Contrast paints because you included a base coat step

Body tidied up, I like it much more now, but taking a look at the pictures revealed a couple of rough spots that I need to fix. Face is very /wip/, it doesn't pop enough in my opinion. I am really unsure about which color to pick for the mane, any ideas?

>>66242143>GWs second coolest HH vehicle>mobile bunker of deathyes, if you can afford and justify it you should get it, and it's a centerpeice model, if you want a pintle wepaon what's an extra £10 on top of £300

>>66243993Looks good so far, I'll say this since my shading looked exactly the same as yours at that point; go back over and do a gentle blend onto the highlights with your base colors. It will make the muscle tone look a lot less jagged. As for the face, get some deeper shadows in, same as you did for the body, it has plenty of space for some blending.

After playing some of the games and reading a novel or two I decided to buy a buncha CSM to try and make them into Word Bearers, these are the first few. Apparently these are outdated minis but the newer ones are available only online, and at obscene prices. I got a bunch more left, including a Hellbrute and some more cultists.

It's too easy to throw too much shade into them but I like the way the darker lines define details, specially on armor.

New painter trying to paint some nurgle-ish green before i paint actual DG.I'm fairly happy with the green, but is there a way to make it less crusty looking? It looks smooth to the eye but obvious on camera

>>66245238you aren't thinning your paint, and likely are painting in an area and with tools that have collected a lot of dust. Honestly with a wash or two all that crustiness can only add to the nurglishness

>>662447491. Photos are bad. The minis are not lighted properly and are out of focus. Consider making a lightbox or just stick the minis into the fridge (multiple sources of soft light, white background)2. The minis blur together. You need edge highlights to break up large patches of single color.3. Bone is better washed with seraphim sepia, not nuln oil. Right now it looks indistinguishable from the metals.4. Drill your barrels.5. Add soot to the flamer muzzle. There's a tutorial on it in duncan's redemptor video.

Just in general, marines do not need an all-over wash, it just makes them look dirty. Wash the recesses only.

>>66245974You can paint over the raised areas with the original pre-washing color, leaving the wash in recesses. That's actually what you're supposed to do according to GW tutorials. Watch them btw, they're great and cover a lot of useful stuff.Here's how to paint Word Bearers armor.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuDSY61mKBs

>>66246568It's some moron who got told to thin his paints one to many times and now he has diarrhea on his keyboard every time someone mentions airbrushes. He's been doing it for a while now. I've been trying to get help with some of my airbrush technique and every time I post on here it's 4 office gifs and then when no one responds he starts screaming at himself.

>>66246535>what's the difference?generally speaking, no lazy attempts at OSL

airbrushing has a lot of functions that would otherwise be a huge pain in the ass with a physical brush, so there's no hate beyond the same hatred that exists for people who lazily misuse any other painting method

airbrush good as a tool>priming indoors, basepainting large vehicles, doing gradients, zenital highlightingairbrush bad as a crutch>shitty one spurt "OSL", whole paint scheme being just a gradient with zero details

So, I’m midway through painting my first model, you all have been a lot of help. I think I’ve got the hang of the technique of washing, and want to add a colored stripe. With the surface as flat as it is I’m thinking about using masking tape? Tried searching for some simple tutorial, but no luck yet.

Anyone have advice on how I can paint my Arch-Revenant in my Sylvaneth scheme? I don't want to overload the model with pink, my thoughts were the skirt/leaves//armor/revenant part in pink then some other color for the bug on her back?

Excuse the only photo I have of my Treelord and Drycha, I'm at school so can't take a better one.

>>66236262I'm wanting to do this but give it an axe and whip so it can "counts as" An'ggorath the Unbound. How much trouble am I in for?

>I've never cut away to re position a grip before>I do have a spare whip, flail, and single handed axe from a bloodthirster kit>I Also have two spare bloodthirster heads from the same kit>However I have also leant out the Tzeench and Nurgle Head to a friend for conversions

Anyone ever tried to add articulations to a minature? I have some leftover kotobukiya joints that are too tiny to fit anywhere but in tiny model.I was looking at primaris marines or scouts to experiment on with that, they seems to have the easiest proportions to work with.

>>66236262I need advice on isopropyl alcoholBeing a baguette it turns out its hard as shit to get here, however I can get ethyl alcohol for pretty damn cheap at literally every store that sells cleaning supplies. Would Ethyl work the same for stripping, diluting and whatever else? Or are those differently named things work differently and I'm retarded?

>>66249783Well the reason I'm confused is because I bought it expecting blue, but got something green-ish. Looking at the bottle, its pretty dark blue-ish but once thinned out its pretty green. It was unexpected so I was wondering if my batch was weird and wanted to confirm if it was indeed meant to be dark turquoise.

>>66246539Stainless steel ball bearing and a fuck ton of shaking. Consistency tends to be all over the place without it and I have problem's with it still. I'd just plain prefer Vallejo over Army Painter if your local store has access to it, but otherwise it's just fine. Out of all the modern miniature paint companies, they would be pretty middle of the pack.

>>66248785my looncousin, got the long wait for contrast before I start my boys. I plan on using the red contrast over a yellow undercoat, but that special contrast spray has me worried that the undercoat may need a certain consistency to work.

>>66242589Please clean all the mould lines before you paint it after spending so much time modelling this thing. All down the side of the tail there is one big old mould line, along with a few others at random all over it

>>66248677>I've been painting large flat surfaces forever and never had a problem

Lots of people's personal experience mate. Just because you never had a problem with large flat surfaces doesn't mean no one else ever did.

My guess would be either that you have low standards of perfection, and therefore don't notice that you're making a total pig's ear of your large flat surfaces. The only alternative is that you possess preternatural skills the rest of us lack.

>>66246539You have to shake the fuck out of them, and even stir them if they're really bad, and the coverage will still be shit even once you get them to finally mix up properly. The money you save on them is not worth the time you will spend trying to get them to work and the extra coats you'll have to apply in order to get decent coverage.You get what you pay for.If you value your sanity, just get Vallejo Model Color, Reaper Master Series, or Formula P3 instead. Avoid Citadel (I'd still use Army Painter over Citadel, just on principle) and Vallejo Game Color (unless there's a specific color you really need, they just aren't as good as Model Color).If you really want to go the extra mile and get something super high quality, look at Scale 75 and War Colours.

>>66252685I have the bright red metallic they do, I haven't used it on a mini yet but the 3 layers I did on a test model makes it seem like it's the best colored metallics on the market, (Not counting Gold/silver with tamiya clear which is probable still superiour)

>>66249897Unless you just like the guys in their, you can leave the guys off but still mount the heavy bolters in such a way that they don't interfere with the side doors opening and closing. In that way, the ramp being open means nothing so you might as well glue it shut

Is Blue Stuff the best way about going casting molds for some model parts or is there a newer hipper way of doing it? Also what kind of putty or other material is generally best for it? I have Milliput lying around here somewhere.

>>66253137>I'm not trolling I'm making a joke about something that happened in WIP>I'm making a joke specifically about Airbrushers which is specifically a WIP topic>It's a joke, but apparently that makes it low quality>Avatarfaging>THAT'S THE JOKE

>>66254364>off topicThe office is not /tg/>extremely low quality postingYou're adding nothing to the conversation and actively hindering it>And Arguably avatar/signature since he constantly post with the same gifsFucking obvious>trollingYou wont shut the fuck up and just blow your fucking brains out.

So I've bought about 100 of these guys from Warlord, now I wanna do them up as Imperial Guard. Desert-themed, just to make it even harder for myself. I was thinking of using tan, maroon, and light blue as my main colours, but aside from definitely doing the outer jackets tan I'm struggling to decide what to paint which colour. >Blue pants and maroon waistcoat? >Slightly darker tan pants, maroon/blue waistcoat?>Dark tan jacket, light tan pants and waistcoat, maroon accents, light blue for veterans?>Something else???Help please, I like the colours and the combo but I can't figure out how they should fit together.

Please stop shitting up the thread guys. There are plenty of other boards and general threads where you can go for shit posting. This goes for both the pro and anti airbrush posters. If you see a post you don't like, just don't reply. Even this post is a waste of the bump limit.

>>66248025Help or tutorials on re positioning? >would this be tourney legal as it it about the proper size and would be clearly marked with both weapons?>Would it need to be since it only has one loadout?

>>66254242>newfagJohnny poster posted his figure non stop with the words johnny adding no contribution to anything. Got told to fuck off multiple times Guess simpletons like you are impressed by repeated things.

Yeah! so your scheme is pretty cool as is, you've got that chocolate brown as your primary, pink as the secondary and green as your tertiary (although I think your green is subjectively a little dark and you could go a shade limeier)

First, Your primary. This one is easy, just make the woody parts brownNext up pink. I think the "skin", branch tips, and leaf cloak should be pink to keep in line with your other models.

This leaves four major areas: helmet/horns, weapon/shield, glow effects, and the giant moth. for the helmet its kind of a question of whether you want it to be a metal helmet or a wood helmet, I think brass or just the same brown would work. I'd pair brown horns with the brass helmet and pink or green horns with the wood. I'm not 100% sold on the helmet matching the body color as shown. I would match whatever you choose for the helmet to the weapon and shield, so if you go brass, go brass. For your glow effects I think that a traditional wood elf amber yellow could work well and tie in with your honey comb.

Lastly, the moth. I'm hesitant to recommend a pink moth, I think it would be too much. So i'd go either green or brown. Personally, I would try and emulate a lunar moth

>>66254814Tan as primary colour, with maroon to match my marines and blue because I dig the way it contrasts with tan (also Tuareg are cool)>>66254801Indeed, got 100 infantry and 30 cavalry for 30 britbucks

>>66253905Blue stuffs good for bits, and anything that doesn't heat up is fine to cast in it. Plaster, Daz Clay, Milliput, Greenstuff, Plumbers Epoxy all work. Also don't buy blue stuff, get the clear stuff from japan, it's cheaper and the original anyways.

>>66254884I really like the idea of the armor/weapon being wood! I think I will probably go with that. And yeah I was thinking green for the moth. That or go with a blue-ish color like they have in the example.

Old Exo-Armours routinely go for over $20.00US, easy. Yes, I understand it doesn't have the bosspole, but if it did? Then the seller wouldn't have any problem getting double that.

Only one of mine (>>66253049) has the bosspole, and it seems only right to make him a sergeant, but that means I'd have to cut off the power fist to give him a power sword. That's something I'm not crazy about doing.