At risk of continued thread hijack... I find the concepts of beta vs adventure intriguing in this thread.
Maybe it reflects a subtle change in attitude by more modern participants of the game we play?

It isn't as if one can't see what's ahead while climbing Hermes, and that creates opportunities to reassess continuing ascent, or at least the manner of same.
It's a trad climb and I've always considered the best way to do them is climb stance to stance, where rest opportunity and protection opportunity may arise.
This sometimes necessarily involves run-outs, but that is the nature of the game we play is it not?

The most memorable climbs were those that gave false hope of rest or protection, but again, that just makes for an unexpected run-out...

For me, trad climbing is primarily adventure based, particularly multipitch.
A climb without risk contains no adventure.
The adventure component is the hook that keeps me climbing...
Managing the risk by assessment of ability and constrained tactics is different to murdering a climb into submission by dumbing it down with beta and/or technology.

Let the flaming begin, or is anyone up for a retro of it now that it has a history of misadventure by some?
;-)