tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12647349061276490182018-03-15T07:11:54.087+00:00 the petite passionsModern, feminine dressmakingLaura Victorianoreply@blogger.comBlogger152125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-52139063279825400782018-03-13T08:00:00.000+00:002018-03-13T14:28:21.839+00:00Style Arc Estelle Ponte Jacket<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fnOw7diKqPg/Wp0idccVssI/AAAAAAAAVVU/w-11XNXZoWgaKQbtZcGReKOOPP7KsiKcACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/estelle.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Style Arc Estelle Ponte Jacket pattern review" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fnOw7diKqPg/Wp0idccVssI/AAAAAAAAVVU/w-11XNXZoWgaKQbtZcGReKOOPP7KsiKcACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/estelle.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />Okay, so I didn't quite get this up in time for February's #sewmystyle2018 reveal, but I don't think it matters if we aren't all 100% on schedule. I started the month with firm Rumana plans, and after seeing all of your Estelles, realised that there was an option for this pattern for me that would fit into my wardrobe needs. It seems both of my projects were about shortening significantly from the original, but that's what suits me!<br /><br /><h3>Fabric</h3>This is an easy one...the clue's in the title of the pattern!&nbsp; I love how simple that makes it to pick a fabric for the Estelle. That said, there is a huge variety of ponte available! I went with a straightforward <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/shop/fabric/dress-fabrics/z901376-39-m-plain-stretch-ponte-roma-jersey-knit-dress-fabric?colour=Ivory">ivory from Minerva Crafts</a>&nbsp;for £13.99 a metre. I only ordered one metre, knowing that I was going to shorten it considerably and I <i>just</i>&nbsp;got the pattern out of it. It's soft and comfortable to wear, and is easy enough to sew with. I used my regular sewing machine on this because I knew that the back neck needed it and getting out two machines would slow me down. This pattern has raw edges at the front and bottom, so a rotary cutter and ruler is essential to getting a good finish here.<br /><h3><br />Pattern and Instructions</h3>The pattern is a simple waterfall jacket with a shawl collar. There are only three pattern pieces to work with and it really is a quick sew. When you order Style Arc patterns you don't get a pdf with lots of sizes on it - you have to look up their measurements and order the size you require. You get sent this size and one either side, but not the whole range. Personally, I like to have the whole range - it's nice to be able to make things for other people, and though it isn't an issue with this pattern, some makers need to grade across a few sizes when making dresses so I'm not sure how easily they would be able to do this.<br /><br />The instructions are brief. They are quite simply a list of steps, and there are some accompanying illustrations, but these aren't matched to the instructions so there's a bit of detective work if you aren't an experienced sewer. I had a look on Style Arc's site for some extra help, and there is a bit more there, but I still found the shoulder pivot tricky. I also wasn't clear which side of the back neck would end up on show once the jacket was being worn so am not entirely happy with how this looks now.<br /><br />This pattern took about three hours to make in total - the seams don't need to be finished and it features raw edges, all due to the handy non-fraying nature of ponte. This does mean that accurate and neat cutting is crucial, but it really is a speedy make.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jrdZwQc-fJo/Wp0jrNflZMI/AAAAAAAAVVg/ic-607lKkS8HZnZNDCunePLKLb6RN9WRgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/estelle%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Style Arc Estelle Ponte Jacket pattern review" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jrdZwQc-fJo/Wp0jrNflZMI/AAAAAAAAVVg/ic-607lKkS8HZnZNDCunePLKLb6RN9WRgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/estelle%2B2.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><h3>Alterations</h3>I altered the length of mine quite a lot. I measured from the back neck to where I wanted it to finish on me and used that as a guide to establish how much I needed to remove from the back, then compared this with a measurement from the front shoulder. I used pretty much the <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2018/02/by-hand-london-rumana-coat-knee-length.html">same technique as for the Rumana coat</a> to keep the shape of the bottom, but this was a lot easier because there is no hem to factor into the calculations. I will admit that there was a fair bit of estimation in this one, but I wasn't too fussed about if there was a one inch deviation either way on the finished length from what I intended. As it was it turned out exactly as I wanted it. Shortening to this length does mean that the pockets are a no go though.<br /><br />I also went with a turned up sleeve (just folded up and secured with a small stitch at each side). The sleeves on the pattern as made are a little too gapey for my style. I could taper them from the elbow to the wrist, but liked the turned up look better in the end.<br /><br /><h3>Thoughts</h3><b>What I like about this pattern</b> - is how quick it is to make. If you need a little cover up or blazer to go with an outfit, you could easily put this together in a matching material with little hassle.<br />What I'm not sure about with this pattern - is the instructions. A beginner might struggle, and there were some parts that could have been clearer. I'd also prefer to get all the sizes in one download too.<br /><b>Would I make it again?</b> I really think I will. It's very flattering, and can be paired easily with lots of outfits.Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-62737955037102943702018-03-06T10:07:00.000+00:002018-03-06T10:07:45.589+00:00What I learned at the Knitting and Stitching ShowLast weekend the Spring Knitting and Stitching Show took place at Olympia in London. This was the first time I had been, and many of you would have seen a discount for tickets here on the blog (as well as giveaways on social media too!). Instead of a 'review' I thought it might be more helpful for you to have my thoughts on what I learned there instead!<div><br /></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rb9QqPbye4k/Wp0WntkGsmI/AAAAAAAAVUs/Y_CO_ucpnvoKgNuzwHRFEY3RWBijy9cqwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Dressmaking%2BStudio%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="What I learned at the Knitting and Stitching Show" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rb9QqPbye4k/Wp0WntkGsmI/AAAAAAAAVUs/Y_CO_ucpnvoKgNuzwHRFEY3RWBijy9cqwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Dressmaking%2BStudio%2B2.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div><a name='more'></a><br /></div><h4>Workshop learning</h4><div>There are a lot of workshops and live demonstrations running over the four days. For me, this is the deciding factor in which day I'm going to attend. Working full time, it's always going to be the weekend, but I do like to tie it in with a workshop too. This time I took the 'Four feet you can't live without' session; it's an hour long and gives you a quick tutorial on four sewing machine feet that can make your sewing easier. It doesn't sound incredibly exciting but I really did learn a lot!</div><div>The feet we learned to use were</div><div><ul><li>hemming foot</li><li>button foot</li><li>piping foot</li><li>blind hem foot</li></ul><div>Tutors were on hand to help with getting to grips with these in practice sessions, and I came away knowing that the foot I had been considering (narrow hem) was exactly what I needed. (Notice <i>need</i>&nbsp;not <i>want....</i>). This session cost £15, which seems to be the average rate....I don't think that's too bad and it was something a little different in between cruising the stalls. (Yes, I did buy the hemming foot I had my eye on - handily available on a stall at the show).</div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tpUEm7PKZ7o/Wp0WxzKPY8I/AAAAAAAAVU0/LO8nId-nPAUsV7-R_tmpDK_58aL6hLjFgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180304_111522976_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="What I learned at the Knitting and Stitching Show" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tpUEm7PKZ7o/Wp0WxzKPY8I/AAAAAAAAVU0/LO8nId-nPAUsV7-R_tmpDK_58aL6hLjFgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180304_111522976_HDR.jpg" title="" /></a></div><h4><br /></h4><h4>You can't get it all online</h4><div>I hadn't previously gone to the Knit and Stitch Shows because I do the majority of my shopping online, and wondered if the selection at the show would compare to the vast world of internet shopping. At the show I came to realise....</div><div>Obviously being able to see and feel fabric makes a huge difference to purchasing decisions!</div><div>When you shop online you can miss suppliers because you don't know to look for them. Wandering around the show I came across lots of stores that I hadn't heard of before, or hadn't really seen what kinds of fabrics they stocked.</div><div>Not everybody is online! This is the biggest bonus in coming to a show...I discovered some fabulous fabrics at great prices from suppliers who don't carry their range online. It's worth a ticket to get the fabrics.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mSK6A6UmqrQ/Wp0W9E9h7fI/AAAAAAAAVU8/AVXOSrVHabAFxgWsM0Zryj8hKN3xfp0pwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Shopping%2Bfor%2Bfabric.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="What I learned at the Knitting and Stitching Show" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mSK6A6UmqrQ/Wp0W9E9h7fI/AAAAAAAAVU8/AVXOSrVHabAFxgWsM0Zryj8hKN3xfp0pwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Shopping%2Bfor%2Bfabric.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div><br /></div><h4>Other ways to make show savings</h4><div>This time I felt that I was somewhat restrained in my purchases and didn't go mad on buying all the fabrics (even though there was a lot of good value there). What I did think of as sensible was the accessories like sewing feet, rulers and other tools. You can't often get these all from one supplier, which then means you end up paying delivery charges on multiple items. I concentrated on sourcing the tools that were missing from my sewing box and saved about £7.50 in delivery charges alone.</div><div>There are also other show specials - it's the ideal place to buy a machine if you are in the market for one and if you are looking to stock up on patterns, there are usually multiple purchase discounts. (Even if you don't want three from one place, you might be able to pair up with someone you are going with to take advantage of the bundle saving).</div><div><br /></div><div>Now that I know all this I will be carefully considering what I buy between now and the Autumn show because I'm definitely going again and taking advantage of the show savings!</div><div><br /></div><div>Did you go? What was your star buy?</div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-82692294832363442442018-02-27T08:00:00.000+00:002018-02-27T08:00:15.653+00:00Apps to help you with your sewing<h1><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: 400;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TJLrqw9nofQ/Wm3yQD4JqDI/AAAAAAAAUgo/iDtnABC0KmIW7mJfbYyOiB6W16NABAyCwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/CC_CreativeMinimalism_V8.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Sewing apps" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TJLrqw9nofQ/Wm3yQD4JqDI/AAAAAAAAUgo/iDtnABC0KmIW7mJfbYyOiB6W16NABAyCwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/CC_CreativeMinimalism_V8.jpg" title="" /></a></span></span></h1><h1><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">Something slightly&nbsp;different this week with a guest post all about apps you can use for sewing. I admit I didn't know there was much out there for this so pleasantly&nbsp;surprised to see what Isaac has for us! *spoiler...I'm an avid user of number 5*<a name='more'></a></span></span></h1><div class="MsoNormal"><i><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">This guest post was written by Isaac Atia of <a href="https://10bestranked.com/best-sewing-machine/">10BestRanked.com</a>, a review blog for popular sewing, home, outdoors products and gadgets. When he’s not writing product reviews, Isaac enjoys a good read. <o:p></o:p></span></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">We all use our smartphones to download a wide variety of apps on a regular basis, either for our interests or favorite hobbies. Did you know that you can also download some useful craft and sewing apps?&nbsp;</span>If you like sewing, you should definitely look into the apps we will list in this guide. These apps let you track your projects, find local exhibitions, learn new sewing skills, organize and plan your sewing ideas, and much more. Ultimately, they will make your sewing easier and take it to the next level.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Here are 6 apps that can assist you in sewing and simplify your needlework.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h2><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">1. <a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/my-sewing-kit/id1208541168?mt=8">My Sewing Kit</a><o:p></o:p></span></h2><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">It can be a difficult challenge to keep all the patterns and supplies neatly arranged and well organized. Over the time, these items will pile up and make a mess. This is where My Sewing Kit app comes in! <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">This amazing app allows you to store your pictures, notes, patterns, supplies, and other things in one place. Additionally, it lets you save the downloaded sewing patterns and create a book library. Use it to store the width, length, amount, and type of all the items you purchased. Once stored, you'll be able to keep track of your sewing essentials, including the books, threads, patterns, fabrics, trim, equipment, notions, and projects. That will make planning and research much easier. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">The app can also memorize all the prices and shops where you bought the certain items. It's available for both iPhone and iPad.<o:p></o:p></span></div><h2><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">2. <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kwirky.megan.sewingpatternbuddy&amp;hl=en">Sewing Pattern Buddy</a><o:p></o:p></span></h2><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">With this app, you'll be able to have all your patterns at your fingertips. Note that the app doesn't include any pattern collection; it's a database you can fill in with your own sewing patterns.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Sewing Pattern Buddy eliminates the need for bookmarking, saving, printing, and pinning the patterns separately. Keep everything in one place for fast recovery. For easier research, filter by pattern name, company, fabric needed, garment type, pattern number, size, notes, tags, photos, your rating, and so on. This way you will easily find everything stored in your pattern collection.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">You can store up to 25 sewing patterns for free. If you want to add more patterns, you'll need to buy the upgrade. The app is only available for Android devices.<o:p></o:p></span></div><h2><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">3. <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ilsoft.crossstitchguild">Cross Stitch Guild</a><o:p></o:p></span></h2><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">As its name suggests, this sewing app is aimed at people wanting to learn more about cross stitching, regardless of their skill level. Cross Stitch Guild app comes with a lot of useful features, such as:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS" style="font-family: &quot;wingdings 2&quot;; mso-bidi-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;; mso-fareast-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;;">ñ<span style="font-family: &quot;times new roman&quot;; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">&nbsp; </span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Stitch count calculator<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS" style="font-family: &quot;wingdings 2&quot;; mso-bidi-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;; mso-fareast-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;;">ñ<span style="font-family: &quot;times new roman&quot;; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">&nbsp; </span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Thread converter for color and brand equivalents<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS" style="font-family: &quot;wingdings 2&quot;; mso-bidi-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;; mso-fareast-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;;">ñ<span style="font-family: &quot;times new roman&quot;; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">&nbsp; </span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Shade cards (for Anchor, Madeira, and DMC)<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS" style="font-family: &quot;wingdings 2&quot;; mso-bidi-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;; mso-fareast-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;;">ñ<span style="font-family: &quot;times new roman&quot;; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">&nbsp; </span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Stitch library with plenty of instructions and clear diagrams <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS" style="font-family: &quot;wingdings 2&quot;; mso-bidi-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;; mso-fareast-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;;">ñ<span style="font-family: &quot;times new roman&quot;; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">&nbsp; </span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Dedicated sections to keep your threads, fabrics, kits, books, and more<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Via this handy app, you can also see the stitching journals by Jane Greenoff and read her tips. Cross Stitch Guild adds even more features and additions daily. The app can be used on Android, iPhone, and iPad devices.<o:p></o:p></span></div><h2><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">4. <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.colorworkapps.sewawesome&amp;hl=en">Sew Awesome</a> <o:p></o:p></span></h2><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Designed for both beginner and professional seamstresses, Sew Awesome keeps track of sewing items and essentials. For example, it can track your thread, fabrics, patterns, etc. For better organization, the app is divided into 3 categories:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS" style="font-family: &quot;wingdings 2&quot;; mso-bidi-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;; mso-fareast-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;;">ñ<span style="font-family: &quot;times new roman&quot;; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">&nbsp; </span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">SEWING STUFF - This is where you can keep track of your sewing machine feet, patterns, people's measurements, fabrics, and threads. For each category, you can store the pictures of your items along with the relevant information. The fabrics section, for example, lets you store the images of your fabrics along with the item numbers, names, types, yardages,&nbsp; contents, and other notes.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS" style="font-family: &quot;wingdings 2&quot;; mso-bidi-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;; mso-fareast-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;;">ñ<span style="font-family: &quot;times new roman&quot;; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">&nbsp; </span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">SEWING TOOLS - It includes some helpful sewing tools, such as thread converter, inches to yards converter, ruler, and flashlight.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS" style="font-family: &quot;wingdings 2&quot;; mso-bidi-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;; mso-fareast-font-family: &quot;Wingdings 2&quot;;">ñ<span style="font-family: &quot;times new roman&quot;; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">&nbsp; </span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">SEWING REFERENCE - This section contains sewing machine diagrams, needle types and diagrams, needle size conversions, and a glossary of general sewing terminology.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Note that the app is designed for Android devices only.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS"><br /></span></div><a data-pin-board-width="800" data-pin-do="embedUser" data-pin-scale-height="300" data-pin-scale-width="80" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pinterest/apetitepassion"></a> <br /><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS"><br /></span></div><h2><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">5. <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pinterest&amp;hl=en">Pinterest App</a><o:p></o:p></span></h2><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">Chances are you have already used Pinterest for some purpose. The idea behind this website is to turn "pinnings" into the new verbs. People use it to discover new recipes, projects for their home, style ideas, and so on. You can also use it to get a better idea of what to wear, cook, and more. Did you know that you can also utilize it for sewing?&nbsp;</span>Pinterest has an app for both Apple Android, which lets you create and collect a whole host of boards. This app comes for free.</div><h2><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">6. <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mobisys.android.free_motion&amp;hl=en">Free Motion Quilting Ideas</a><o:p></o:p></span></h2><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS">If you are looking for a quilting app, look no further than Free Motion Quilting Ideas. This app provides beginners with 16 allover designs, each of which includes instructions and videos that show you how to create the particular motif. The designs include leaves, hearts, flames, loops, rectangular meanders, peas in a pod, paisleys, pebbles, stipples, petals, round flowers, ribbons, swirling vines, waves, swirls, and tubes.&nbsp;</span>The Free Motion Quilting Ideas app comes with an extensive video library and five bonus videos. You can download it to your tablet or Android smartphone.</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br /></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS"><i>Leave a comment below...have you tried one of these? What was your experience? What is your favourite sewing app if it isn't listed here?</i></span></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="SR-LATN-RS"><i>Clearly I'm a lover of Pinterest!</i></span></div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-1004657141159618982018-02-20T08:00:00.000+00:002018-02-20T08:01:00.204+00:00Lunch on the Orient Express<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zhXr6DLywmw/WoMyBkgzhOI/AAAAAAAAUzo/CRL82JgWUMIBZff1VvZU6kbaeYmehVt-ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/lr%2Bpullman-3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zhXr6DLywmw/WoMyBkgzhOI/AAAAAAAAUzo/CRL82JgWUMIBZff1VvZU6kbaeYmehVt-ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/lr%2Bpullman-3.jpg" /></a></div><br />Have you ever wondered what it is like on the Orient Express? Why people make a fuss about it? or have you considered booking but wanted to know a bit more detail before committing? I tried looking for detailed information before I booked for a lunch experience, and couldn't find what I needed. Hopefully if you are in the same position this might be of use to you (niche market I know, but someone has to put it out there!)<br />This is definitely one that should be added to the bucket list..........<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mwoJ3K3LrNs/WoMx2H_PHpI/AAAAAAAAUzY/dHSWomWdWwUvvhiIYW1xe1PrLak-WKQOQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/lr%2Bpullman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mwoJ3K3LrNs/WoMx2H_PHpI/AAAAAAAAUzY/dHSWomWdWwUvvhiIYW1xe1PrLak-WKQOQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/lr%2Bpullman.jpg" /></a></div><br /><br />The Venice Simplon Orient Express is the iconic long distance passenger train service that transported people across the European and Asian continents before air travel was as popular as it is now. It's a name synonymous with luxury and art deco styling....and my favourite fictional detective Hercule Poirot Nowadays it falls within the umbrella of the Belmond collection of trains and hotels; you can still travel on the Venice line on the train that bears the namesake. Other journeys have their own carriages; the British Pullman is the one that I have travelled on for lunch and whose journeys are based around London. It is also the first leg of the Orient Express journeys towards Europe, as travellers make their way to the British Channel.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fx_tmucxGRg/WoMygg3QygI/AAAAAAAAU0A/Qivk2NvHFyM7Gf8w8EHGgNdbm_dNt5vRACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/lr%2Bpullman-6.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fx_tmucxGRg/WoMygg3QygI/AAAAAAAAU0A/Qivk2NvHFyM7Gf8w8EHGgNdbm_dNt5vRACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/lr%2Bpullman-6.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The Golden Age of Travel is the name of the journey departing from London Victoria, travelling through the Kent countryside and where you enjoy:<br /><ul><li>a welcome glass of champagne</li><li>a delicious 5 course lunch</li><li>half a bottle of wine per person</li><li>coffee, tea and petit fours</li><li>(and on the journeys we have travelled, an oyster and champagne stop in Whitstable too)</li></ul><div>Prices vary depending on departure date, but you can expect something in the region of £300 per person.</div><div><br /></div><h4>How to book</h4><div>You need to prebook tickets <a href="https://www.belmond.com/trains/europe/uk/belmond-british-pullman/search-results">(details here)</a>, and in due course you will receive these in the form of a booklet in the post. On your travel day you will depart from London Victoria, heading to the furthest platform, which has its own Belmond departure lounge. Here you check in and enjoy one of the teas or coffees provided before it is time to board.</div><div><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nt6f2OBZjJo/WoMyJbicPeI/AAAAAAAAUzw/Kh7ltRTci6s-iWl3VZBoM-0OOocGxmKJACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/lr%2Bpullman-2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nt6f2OBZjJo/WoMyJbicPeI/AAAAAAAAUzw/Kh7ltRTci6s-iWl3VZBoM-0OOocGxmKJACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/lr%2Bpullman-2.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><h4>What to wear</h4><div>Although there isn't a strict dress code per se, it is meant to be a luxurious affair and people embrace the opportunity to dress in their finery. Trainers are not really the done thing. You will see plenty of men in suits and women in dresses (and even fascinators). Not everybody is dressed for the races but it is certainly more formal than smart-casual.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TStS_BvUrOQ/Wn8cA9t794I/AAAAAAAAUvI/ju57xRdr218MN07YhzSdoqjIJkh2dXqvgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-04-22%2B07.05.09%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TStS_BvUrOQ/Wn8cA9t794I/AAAAAAAAUvI/ju57xRdr218MN07YhzSdoqjIJkh2dXqvgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-04-22%2B07.05.09%2B1.jpg" /></a></div><div><h4><br /></h4><h4><br /></h4><h4><br /></h4><h4>What to expect</h4></div><div>Not your ordinary train ride! This journey takes about 5 hours. At the end of it everyone I know who has travelled feels exceptionally well fed, and possibly slightly merry. There is a refined atmosphere in the carriages, and the staff are incredibly friendly. The whole point is to give you an unforgettable experience.I personally love the soft glow from the table lamps and small touches that come throughout the day.<br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-smkizzeRi1U/WoMyUWKTaHI/AAAAAAAAUz4/kHRkPDaQvQwAC4XF_zpjnm6WG8Z_VFgVQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/lr%2Bpullman-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-smkizzeRi1U/WoMyUWKTaHI/AAAAAAAAUz4/kHRkPDaQvQwAC4XF_zpjnm6WG8Z_VFgVQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/lr%2Bpullman-5.jpg" /></a></div><br /></div><div><br />The glasses and tableware of beautiful in their own right...before the food comes down! You sit in comfortable armchairs, usually in pairs either side of the aisle, with generous spacing in between so you can enjoy private conversations...but also have a chat with those near you as you revel in the experience. There are a few three and four person berths available, but these would really need to booked well in advance because they are rarer.<br /><br /><h4>The food</h4></div><div><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-625xbs3LsAc/Wn8b85OI_oI/AAAAAAAAUvA/RjmKGRY5RTcgW3pSb6W-Vk4jQ7JHLGSZgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-04-22%2B07.05.11%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-625xbs3LsAc/Wn8b85OI_oI/AAAAAAAAUvA/RjmKGRY5RTcgW3pSb6W-Vk4jQ7JHLGSZgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-04-22%2B07.05.11%2B1.jpg" /></a></div><div></div><h4><br /></h4><div>On arrival, there are amuse bouches along with your welcome champagne. Each of the following five courses is generous in quantity and of the highest quality. Menus are seasonal and change frequently. On our Autumn journey we started with a smoked haddock fishcake, followed by slow roasted ox cheeks in a delicious jus, and the most incredible salted caramel pave.&nbsp;</div><div><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4nLyNo61ZIo/WoMy9gxEzRI/AAAAAAAAU0I/jKpPY2LfbCcSai8gjBUTxnOztE4nNZybwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-04-22%2B07.05.17%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4nLyNo61ZIo/WoMy9gxEzRI/AAAAAAAAU0I/jKpPY2LfbCcSai8gjBUTxnOztE4nNZybwCK4BGAYYCw/s320/2017-04-22%2B07.05.17%2B1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>When it comes to the cheese board, you have a large selection to choose from for your plate, and they are always generous with their portions (as with everything to be honest).</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xTTjPhqenpg/Wn8cOoBm5wI/AAAAAAAAUvg/Xb_SRxJL3NwkHBwt4Uhm53Gcn1qMQ0nAgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-04-22%2B07.05.26%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xTTjPhqenpg/Wn8cOoBm5wI/AAAAAAAAUvg/Xb_SRxJL3NwkHBwt4Uhm53Gcn1qMQ0nAgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-04-22%2B07.05.26%2B1.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I would definitely recommend this as something to try at least once. There are a variety of journey and dining options that you can book. So far I have only tried the lunch option, but would go again in a heartbeat if I was invited. It is a more expensive option, but being a one of a kind experience, kind of makes it worth it. You would be hard pushed not to have a wonderful time.<br /><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div></div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-81870576380020321332018-02-12T17:22:00.000+00:002018-02-12T17:22:51.142+00:00By Hand London Rumana Coat - knee length version<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ruOS9fsHAOo/WncP-MpSSeI/AAAAAAAAUm0/iZmt_42uXUMdgbTaOGzqY015Rf5i4MJEACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/rumana-2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="By Hand London Rumana Coat - knee length version" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ruOS9fsHAOo/WncP-MpSSeI/AAAAAAAAUm0/iZmt_42uXUMdgbTaOGzqY015Rf5i4MJEACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/rumana-2.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />Ever since Elisalex started releasing sneak peeks of the <a href="https://byhandlondon.com/products/rumana-coat-pdf-sewing-pattern">Rumana coat</a> on Instagram, I've been one of the many seamstresses looking forward to its release. Luckily, it's on the #sewmystyle2018 schedule so everyone signed up to the newsletter could get their hands on a great discount for the pattern. This is not a quick and easy project by any means, but is one of my most satisfying by far.<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><h3>Fabric</h3><br />I spent a great deal of time on boxing day looking for fabric that was on sale especially for this project. Having toyed with the idea of a linen spring/summer version, I decided to start looking for a wool. I used a Melton wool <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/11/camel-coloured-burda-6736-coat.html">for my first coat here</a>, and found it easy to work with as well as warm.<br />This time around I wanted a charcoal grey to add to my wardrobe, and was also after a herringbone pattern to add some depth. Wool coatings are not cheap to find, and though I generally agree that you get what you pay for, this pattern does need quite a lot (over 3m!) and I needed to find something under £15 per metre. In the end I settled on the Heathcliff herringbone by <a href="https://www.fabworks.co.uk/collections/herringbone-wools">Fabworks</a> for £10 per metre (yes, £10!). I had been impressed by the fabrics they had on their stall at the GBSB live, and kept them in mind as a go to for wools that don't cost the earth. They have a huge range, so do go and check them out if you are going to make this pattern. I ordered 3m instead of 3.4 because I knew I was going to shorten it...I could have squeezed it out from 2.5 if I had to, but it would have been fiddly. The small herringbone on this fabric has other advantages...you don't have to pattern match as it's so small, plus stitches blend in which means less pressure with the topstitching!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JcOhjZ7kNhA/WncRlfjw84I/AAAAAAAAUqk/1y5uktLVJtIrtnzvc6A5UnBJCewLlEsfQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/rumana-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="By Hand London Rumana Coat - knee length version" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JcOhjZ7kNhA/WncRlfjw84I/AAAAAAAAUqk/1y5uktLVJtIrtnzvc6A5UnBJCewLlEsfQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/rumana-3.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br />I had some <a href="https://www.johnlewis.com/vilene-ultrasoft-heavy-iron-on-lining-fabric-white/p2311508">left over interfacing</a> from my first coat, so used it for this one (even though it says to use a lightweight interfacing). I did have to buy a little bit more in the end though, so have now used both the black and white versions...you can't notice it at all with this fabric. <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/shop/fabric/interfacing/2v316-m-vilene-h410-iron-on-fusible-interfacing-interlining-with-vertical-threads?colour=Black">Click here for purchase link. </a>Applying the interfacing does take a while because it needs to be fused to the front panel and facing pieces. I haven't found it too heavy at all, and am glad of it as the front of a coat gets a fair bit of handling so I know the interfacing is giving it a bit of support too.<br /><br />For the lining I wanted a heavier fabric than I usually use for lining - I can just imagine throwing this coat on and tearing right through the lining! I ended up in my local John Lewis, piling up sale fabrics, including their <a href="https://www.johnlewis.com/carrington-fabrics-sapphire-satin-fabric/p2299379?colour=Purple">sapphire satin</a> for my lining. Normally it's £8 per metre; some colours were over half price (not this one in cappuccino though). It's heavier weight than normal lining, but still fluid and slippery. It isn't difficult to work with at all and feels lovely. I also sourced my buttons from John Lewis too. I decided on three quite plain ones, but was sorely tempted by a lot of bling.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xXXLgUD_Ck0/WncUllzPSdI/AAAAAAAAUr0/II8T7vWamNwpHaaoSkxBJcUeHuOZA_9jACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/rumana-4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="By Hand London Rumana Coat - knee length version" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xXXLgUD_Ck0/WncUllzPSdI/AAAAAAAAUr0/II8T7vWamNwpHaaoSkxBJcUeHuOZA_9jACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/rumana-4.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><h3><br />Pattern and Instructions</h3>This is not a pattern for the faint of heart. It is a lined princess seamed coat, with collar, two piece sleeves and welt pockets. When you purchase the pattern you are able to download copy shop files as well as pdf pages to print. I recommend sending off to the copy shop if you can...it took me over two hours to stick the pdfs together. There are A LOT of pattern pieces that need to be kept track of. You need to pay careful attention to the labels on the pattern pieces. Some of these double up for interfacing too (the layplan diagrams can help you make sure you have everything).<br /><br />The booklet that comes with the pattern also has a lot of helpful information at the front. It is really worth taking the time to read through all of this carefully. Crucially, finished measurements are included at the front. I needed these to calculate my alterations and highly recommend you look at these before cutting out. I almost never toile (it is good idea to do one on a pattern like this) and try to work out how the pattern will look using these measurements and the pattern pieces (cut to the size that fits my measurements). At this stage in my sewing journey, I know that sleeves are often too long, as well as the overall length, so focused on these areas. More on alterations below.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vHZhpwueZVw/WncUU43kK3I/AAAAAAAAUrs/Cg1lZhzqXiQtgS8dBUWdEusZGDHfdMXYwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/rumana-5.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="By Hand London Rumana Coat - knee length version" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vHZhpwueZVw/WncUU43kK3I/AAAAAAAAUrs/Cg1lZhzqXiQtgS8dBUWdEusZGDHfdMXYwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/rumana-5.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br /><br />Now, nobody looking at this coat is going to assume it is straightforward. The instructions do have diagrams, and are written in easy to understand language, which helps enormously. I didn't have too much trouble with the construction of this pattern really....it does take a long time, and some parts needed a bit of thought first, but there wasn't anything that was too fiddly. You do really need to check every stage though as the seam allowances are not constant for each piece. However there were some parts in the instructions that either I didn't understand properly, or aren't clear enough for a sewer of my standard so I've got some extra tips here:<br /><ul><li>Right at the start, when you are attaching the pocket to the upper front side you need to sew the diagonal edge of the pocket to the diagonal bottom of the upper side front, right sides together. You want the longer side of the pocket towards the centre front, and the shorter pocket side on the edge with the armhole (please excuse my awful notes that I made as I was going through, but hopefully you get the idea).</li></ul><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FIHZv0adBUo/WncQSUA1OyI/AAAAAAAAUnA/xTo4WFQQElolrp38pasbProUf0yUdGSggCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180201_202743893.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="By Hand London Rumana Coat - knee length version" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FIHZv0adBUo/WncQSUA1OyI/AAAAAAAAUnA/xTo4WFQQElolrp38pasbProUf0yUdGSggCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180201_202743893.jpg" title="" /></a></div><ul><li>When you fold the welt in half lengthways you can stitch in the ditch to secure it, and then topstitch 1cm below this seam to get the same look as this one posted on the&nbsp;@byhandlondon Instagram feed</li></ul><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V8Niqqw-DLY/WnBxQ4W4ibI/AAAAAAAAUik/h_xDoDFWWdEgaOxrOprqZXtYvhDqnURogCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Regrann%2Bfrom%2B%2540byhandlondon.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V8Niqqw-DLY/WnBxQ4W4ibI/AAAAAAAAUik/h_xDoDFWWdEgaOxrOprqZXtYvhDqnURogCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Regrann%2Bfrom%2B%2540byhandlondon.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><ul><li>When it came to sewing the lining at the hem, I did a bit of testing first. I did stitch the lining to the sleeves, but then turned the coat through to the right side to check that the lining was indeed aligned with the bottom...if it isn't it is a real pain to redo. It wasn't in my case so I marked where the stitching line would be on the lining, with the help of my dressform. Then I turned the whole thing inside out again and stitched the shell and lining together with a 15mm seam allowance, leaving a gap at the vertical edge of the vent to pull through.</li><li>When stitching the hem I found the diagram difficult to understand. My coat was still inside out, and I turned up the hem along the fold I had already pressed (wrong sides facing) and catch stitched it in place. The instructions are written clearly enough here, but the illustration threw me.</li></ul><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ofAZZTjLb94/WncRZi-UTlI/AAAAAAAAUqU/VMlr5zNuKIQqG_kAr8aTxa0Y1UOVLEd_ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180204_100931301.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="By Hand London Rumana Coat - knee length version" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ofAZZTjLb94/WncRZi-UTlI/AAAAAAAAUqU/VMlr5zNuKIQqG_kAr8aTxa0Y1UOVLEd_ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180204_100931301.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />In the end though....have I ended up with an amazing lined princess seamed coat? Yes, and it wasn't fraught with tears, so the instructions and pattern must be quite good to get me to that point! I love the welt pockets, and was so happy that my buttonholes worked well. This took a good couple of weekends to put together, but was a nice project to get stuck into, and didn't feel overwhelming (despite the large number of pattern pieces!) Another bonus....as it's lined the seams don't need finishing (there is a lot of topstitching instead though). It fits really well at the shoulders, sleeves and waist which I'm super happy about.<br /><br /><h3>Alterations</h3><div>Being 5ft tall, anything below the knee makes me look tiny. This coat is meant to reach quite a low point just above the ankle. I wanted to take this up to knee length, but there aren't any lengthen/shorten lines to do this.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N5WlEaH4xNE/WncTi1yQGWI/AAAAAAAAUrQ/9IfzDd5OG_E94pdFLJp92GJlA2vZHz0wgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180204_114622945.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="By Hand London Rumana Coat - knee length version" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N5WlEaH4xNE/WncTi1yQGWI/AAAAAAAAUrQ/9IfzDd5OG_E94pdFLJp92GJlA2vZHz0wgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180204_114622945.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><h4><br />Here are my steps for shortening:</h4><br /><ol><li>Pinch and secure back neck dart in piece H</li><li>Tape H to F at shoulder seam with a 1.5cm seam allowance</li><li>Test length and mark desired length on the pattern piece</li><li>Add 4 cm for hem and mark this point</li><li>Measure from here to bottom of pattern piece (for me, at 5ft tall wanting knee length, 32cm)</li><li>Subtract this from the bottom of pieces C, F, G, H, L, N, O, P and mark at the sides</li><li>Cut at this point</li><li>Align bottom hem to cut line at the sides and tape in place or trace new hemline</li><li>Match vent fusing V to new vent length on H. Align the top first, then fold up until the bottom matches H</li><li>Where possible, use the grainline markings to align pieces</li></ol><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i9NGz6Q5Qdg/WncT0tOjCHI/AAAAAAAAUrc/0MgjVyHtSOgNEn1_W9Phl06CSDUxJUJwQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180204_115300737.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="By Hand London Rumana Coat - knee length version" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i9NGz6Q5Qdg/WncT0tOjCHI/AAAAAAAAUrc/0MgjVyHtSOgNEn1_W9Phl06CSDUxJUJwQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180204_115300737.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /></div><div>I also took up the sleeve length by 4cm, following the same process of pin fitting and comparing with finished measurements.</div><div><h3><br />Thoughts</h3></div><div><b>What I like about this make</b> - I love that I've created such an involved and professional looking product. I feel so accomplished! That shows how well drafted the pattern and instructions must be if I can successfully manage this!</div><div><b>What I don't like</b> - I wish there was a knee length option, or shorten lines to guide alterations a bit. Also some videos or photos might help for the more complicated parts that took me a while to figure out.</div><div><b>Would I recommend this pattern? </b>Yes - I'm very happy with my finished outcome! It is definitely one for when you want to get your teeth stuck into something more involved, and doesn't require any specialist hardware or techniques...just patience.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ElLDHA5ueEE/WncVCdmyL7I/AAAAAAAAUsA/EiQzWxSvDa4F-5HJFo3GdURyzw8-NMBtACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/rumana.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="By Hand London Rumana Coat - knee length version" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ElLDHA5ueEE/WncVCdmyL7I/AAAAAAAAUsA/EiQzWxSvDa4F-5HJFo3GdURyzw8-NMBtACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/rumana.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div></div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-33389655146522400822018-02-06T16:08:00.000+00:002018-02-06T16:08:06.043+00:00The Beginner's Guide to Sewing Your First Coat<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cvp5JRk6--U/WnCP3VYSkMI/AAAAAAAAUjw/VCYkHknF7iwITWV3wCaNJDcuvQwXCvJVQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/learning%2Bto%2Bsew%2Bpost%2Bheader.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="The Beginner's Guide to Sewing Your First Coat" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cvp5JRk6--U/WnCP3VYSkMI/AAAAAAAAUjw/VCYkHknF7iwITWV3wCaNJDcuvQwXCvJVQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/learning%2Bto%2Bsew%2Bpost%2Bheader.png" title="" /></a><br /><br />Making a coat is one of those sewing milestones that gives you a great deal of accomplishment. It is certainly a more involved project, and can seem advanced in some ways, but can totally be taken on. If you've always wanted to give it a go but are a bit scared, don't be. It will take more time, and there could well be a whole heap of unfamiliar terms and items, but that's all part of learning. Once you've made one, you'll be planning your next.<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><h3>Pattern picking</h3>There is a really interesting range of coats out there to make for yourself. I often use the <a href="https://thefoldline.com/">Fold Line's</a> database to have a look, and there are lots of reader makes that were added to the <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/11/the-wardrobebuilder-project-coats-and.html">#wardrobebuilder link up last year</a> to get you inspired.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/11/the-wardrobebuilder-project-coats-and.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="The Beginner's Guide to Sewing Your First Coat" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J194E-jvY1Q/WeiOgSaOOUI/AAAAAAAASi8/B057FOnALw4fwyNR62mwIDWOBcfJq5awQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Boct%2B%25281%2529.png" title="" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pauline Alice Quart Coat, Closet Case Files Kelly Anorak, Deer and Doe Trench Coat</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Now, coats are not created equal...there is a wide variety of complexity and skills that are required and this is what may guide your decision first time around. Some patterns require only the ability to sew in a straight line .... if you've sewn seams, set in sleeves and hand stitched a lining you can make quite a few patterns. This was all I needed to make <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/11/camel-coloured-burda-6736-coat.html">my first coat, the Burda 6737</a>. I didn't even need to sew on a button, and the collar of this is very simple.<br /><br />On the other hand, you might have fallen in love with the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/kelly-anorak-jacket-pattern">Closet Case Files Kelly Anorak</a>&nbsp;and all its poppers, zips, pockets and hood. This is going to involve learning new techniques and possibly, how to use new equipment. Really though it's about what you feel comfortable with. If there's something you've never done or used before, there's often a tutorial and you can practice as much as you want before you hammer a popper through your finished article! You may even be guided by the techniques you want to learn, rather than the finished outcome.<br /><br />If you are signed up to the #sewmystyle2018, this month's pattern is the By Hand London Rumana Coat...I'd say this is accessible for beginners because it doesn't need any specialist tailoring. You will sew darts and princess seams, and topstitch these down, as well as sew buttons. The pattern is well designed and goes together well so it isn't confusing, it just takes time. It is lined and has instructions for this.<br /><br /><a href="https://thefoldline.com/2017/09/30/top-10-coat-sewing-patterns-make-winter/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="The Beginner's Guide to Sewing Your First Coat" src="https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/thefoldline-media/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/25191924/top-10-coat-sewing-patterns1.jpg" title="" /></a>Also worth checking out....<a href="https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/09/sew-your-own-coat/">the Craftsy blog tips for choosing a coat pattern</a>&nbsp;and <a href="https://thefoldline.com/2017/09/30/top-10-coat-sewing-patterns-make-winter/">The Fold Line's top 10 coat picks</a><br /><br /><br /><h3><br />Fabrics</h3>Whichever pattern you pick, it will have a list of recommendations for fabrics. You may not have used (or heard of) some of these before if you're making your first coat. Some of them require specialist tools (leather for instance).<br /><br />Both of the coats I have made have used wool, which was fairly kind to me as a beginner. It doesn't fray and can take being unpicked (in my experience). Use a gentle heat with the iron, and try to set whatever you've pressed (ideally with a tailor's clapper). You don't have to make a thick, warm coat either....coat patterns an be adapted to linens and other lighter weight materials like twill crepes and rayons. I've been toying with using Laura Ashley furnishing fabric for one of my wedding guest outfits!<br /><br />You will also need interfacing to protect the coat against the daily wear it's going to get, and to provide some structure to collars etc. I have used patterns that require fusible interfacing, but others require you to sew this is, and involve specialist tailoring techniques such as pad stitching. Again, nothing is insurmountable; it's about what you feel comfortable with and want to learn/ spend time on. At the cutting out stage, I usually pin my pattern piece to and cut out my main fabric first. Then I lay this on the interfacing, with the fusible side against the wrong side of the shell fabric. This way I don't end up with any reversed pieces that need to be recut.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0wykdPk6XCM/Wei3CsDVSpI/AAAAAAAASjk/5BhB9jxmnlkI-NGl5IEQ8qpvRRPlFu9HgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="The Beginner's Guide to Sewing Your First Coat" border="0" data-original-height="1415" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0wykdPk6XCM/Wei3CsDVSpI/AAAAAAAASjk/5BhB9jxmnlkI-NGl5IEQ8qpvRRPlFu9HgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01316.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br /><br />There's a whole new world of linings, underlinings and interlinings. For my first projects I've gone with linings only because that is what I felt comfortable with. I love that coats give you an opportunity to use some really special fabric - the kind of thing that you wouldn't wear as a garment but love the look and feel of. Normally if you search for lining, you will come up with dress linings in your results. This is fine, but these are quite lightweight usually, and for a coat you might want something a little more durable. Your pattern's fabric suggestions will guide you, but if not you can always find a slippery satin acetate or crepe de chine...something lightweight but not too delicate.<br /><br />More information - I thoroughly recommend listening to the Maker Style podcast episode where heather Lou talks all about fabrics for coats. She explains all the linings! She also recommends that you make an investment of your fabric. Whilst I agree that you usually get what you pay for, a lot of coat projects need quite a lot of fabric. You will need to figure out your own budget but beware that coats are not cheap - especially if you are buying new tools too [FYI my Rumana coat was made using £10 per metre wool and satin acetate (not recommended by Heather), I'm happy with it]. That said, it still can be cheaper than buying RTW!<br /><br /><a href="http://makerstyle.ca/maker-style-podcast/bonus-episode-tips-for-sewing-your-dream-coat-with-heather-lou-from-closet-case-files">Maker Style podcast featuring Heather Lou</a><br /><br /><h3>Press</h3><div>Coats need pressing at every stage to get a polished finish. You want to set the stitches and the seams, as well as use the iron to create shaping. This <a href="http://blog.mccall.com/2015/11/10/sewing-your-first-coat-5-tips-for-success/">article from McCall's</a> talks though tools that can help with getting a professional finish on coats. When sewing your first coat, it's a good idea to set up your ironing board close to your machine - you are going to need it a lot. Don't be tempted to skip pressing, as once the coat is finished you may well wish you could go back and do it, but not be able to. It's really important to let pressed seams cool before moving on (which is why the clapper helps).</div><div><br /></div><h3>Test</h3><div>If you have gone to the expense of buying lots of lovely fabric, making a toile (also called muslin) first is a good idea. This is really hypocritical of me to say though, because I didn't toile either of mine. It was a big mistake for my Burda coat which ended up way too large. It wasn't on my Rumana but I did a lot of pattern fitting before hand (and it could well have been quicker to do this in fabric too btw). I'll outline how it should be done, as well as the way it shouldn't really (aka the way I actually do it).</div><div><br /></div><div>First - look very carefully at the finished measurements. Indie patterns usually have these in the booklet or envelope, and commercial patterns can have these on the pattern pieces themselves. Compare these with the measurements you would normally use to select your size.&nbsp;</div><div><br /></div><div>Using cheaper fabric (as close as possible to the weight and drape of your chosen one), cut out the pattern and baste it together. You can toile the whole pattern shell to assess for a really good fit. <i>I don't do this; at best I would cut out the left side and sew this together, then assess fit with a pin holding the centre front and back in place at the seam allowance line. Often I don't cut out in fabric either, and use the pattern pieces pinned together along the seamlines.&nbsp;</i>What I'm looking for is -&nbsp;</div><div><ul><li>Do the shoulders meet the sleeves in the right place?&nbsp;</li><li>What is the length like on the sleeves? (make sure you turn up the hem as per the instructions obvs)&nbsp;</li><li>What is the length like?&nbsp;</li><li>How much fabric is there across the widest part of the chest and back? Enough to lift arms or sit?</li><li>Is the waistband in the right place (and will it close)?&nbsp;</li><li>Are the sleeves too loose/tight?</li><li>plus a general look around the hips (not usually a problem with coats but you never know).</li></ul></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zffZqYJbcJc/WnCW1bN9nRI/AAAAAAAAUk4/HaPU3RUbkUgQHUjAhNhRKTrflHB4hWe-QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/igor-ovsyannykov-254180.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="The Beginner's Guide to Sewing Your First Coat" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zffZqYJbcJc/WnCW1bN9nRI/AAAAAAAAUk4/HaPU3RUbkUgQHUjAhNhRKTrflHB4hWe-QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/igor-ovsyannykov-254180.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>It is also important to test your stitches before sewing. If you can, keep back some shell fabric to test a seam on first and check it's alright. If your pattern uses buttons, test out some buttonholes on scraps that replicate your finished article....on my Rumana I interfaced to pieces of my fabric and sewed them together just like the front panel. Then I tested out the buttonhole stitch and adjusted the density before I went anywhere near my almost completed coat! When I was making the Rumana I also found that I didn't always understand what I was meant to do at first...so I pinned and tested what this might look like a couple of steps later to figure out if I was the right way round.&nbsp;</div><div><br /></div><div>Try your coat on after key stages to triple check the fit - after the main body is constructed, the sleeves, when the sleeves are attached etc. If everything is going fine that's great, but if your sleeves are too tght for example, you need to do something about it before you sew them to the coat.</div><div><br /></div><h3><br />Take it slowly</h3>This is not a quick make to whizz up in an afternoon. If this is your first coat it is going to be a learning experience as well. Enjoy the time it takes to test, carefully sew and press (you will spend a lot of time pressing). A lot of coat patterns are not too difficult; they are simply time consuming. It is worth taking time over reading instructions and pinning everything into place. I have found the coats I have made to be really enjoyable experiences, and quite relaxing at times too!<br /><br />Know when you are getting tired and need to stop as well...it's really easy to make a simple mistake that will cause you more time in undoing. There is no rush to finish either (unless you're working to some crazy deadline, in which case, why have you done this to yourself?!)<br /><br />I hope that these tips can help you on your way if you are making a coat for the first time. Let me know how you get on in the comments below. If you have any tips for making your first coat, add them below too.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G1YyfPxytCk/WnCWCbwYxgI/AAAAAAAAUks/0tblR7gsb4ETi9NasIEALZBaj7LE2BYjwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Copy%2Bof%2BBeginner%2527s%2BGuide%2Bto%2BSewing%2Byour%2BFirst%2BCoat.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="The Beginner's Guide to Sewing Your First Coat" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G1YyfPxytCk/WnCWCbwYxgI/AAAAAAAAUks/0tblR7gsb4ETi9NasIEALZBaj7LE2BYjwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Copy%2Bof%2BBeginner%2527s%2BGuide%2Bto%2BSewing%2Byour%2BFirst%2BCoat.png" title="" /></a>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-75097012942205325372018-02-04T12:56:00.000+00:002018-02-04T12:56:50.740+00:00Offers for the Spring Knitting and Stitching Show at Olympia London<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cLnTh1zXVos/WnBSJscFUwI/AAAAAAAAUhc/iPrNOW8byE4GqZ78gb5GF4Ac7E3T1D_BgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Email%2Bsignature.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cLnTh1zXVos/WnBSJscFUwI/AAAAAAAAUhc/iPrNOW8byE4GqZ78gb5GF4Ac7E3T1D_BgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Email%2Bsignature.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Thank goodness for the Knitting and Stitching show! I've been holding to my New Year re<i>sew</i>lution and working through my stash, and I reckon I'm just about ready to go and restock! What I also love about these events is that there's lots to explore beyond the retail therapy - there's a huge list of workshops to learn new skills in too. Tickets do sell out fast, so I'm posting this exclusive discount code now, while there are still spaces left! Read more for details....<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kJ3CXSbwg3A/WnBq6CAXgjI/AAAAAAAAUiI/9XJRq2cTmvYOBY38MhMoktmnwACEu5XYACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Mr%2BX%2BStitch%2B-%2BWrap%2BCover.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kJ3CXSbwg3A/WnBq6CAXgjI/AAAAAAAAUiI/9XJRq2cTmvYOBY38MhMoktmnwACEu5XYACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Mr%2BX%2BStitch%2B-%2BWrap%2BCover.png" /></a><br /><a name='more'></a><h3>What is it?</h3>The Knitting &amp; Stitching Show is the UK’s biggest textile art, craft and design event and the Spring show opens its doors to thousands of crafters at Olympia London on 1st-4th March 2018. From embroidery to dressmaking, needle felting to crochet, there are over 200 workshops and free demonstrations hosted by expert tutors, covering every textile craft imaginable. Whether you’re a complete beginner, an expert seamstress or somewhere in between, there is something for everyone, and with nine workshop classrooms, it’s the biggest Spring show programme ever. Workshops are bookable in advance, starting at £15 for one hour, including all materials needed. Places sell out quickly so early booking is recommended.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dqjqt_1sSP0/WnBqz8NwMnI/AAAAAAAAUiA/5X93ZT0EncsuCisuQqIcnBCEKU4BXJ-ZgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Dressmaking%2BStudio%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dqjqt_1sSP0/WnBqz8NwMnI/AAAAAAAAUiA/5X93ZT0EncsuCisuQqIcnBCEKU4BXJ-ZgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Dressmaking%2BStudio%2B2.jpg" /></a><br /><h3>What is it like?</h3><div>So far, I've only been to its sister show, the Great British Sewing Bee Live, last September (more details on <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2018/01/sewing-activewear-plus-gbsb-live.html">what that was like here</a>). The Spring Knit and Stitch show is definitely bigger, and has a lot of exhibitors for a range of crafts. Some fabric stores are exhibiting here that weren't at the GBSB live, so I'm excited to see what they bring. At the shows you can find that stores bring fabrics that having their debut at the show, there are pattern bundle deals, and there are also dressmaking kits on offer so you can get all your supplies in one go....I particularly remember Guthrie and Ghani had a great jeans kit at their stall at the GBSB live. You might also meet one of your sewing idols....they often run their stalls and workshops but be warned that it is quite busy there too.<br /><br /><img alt="Great British Sewing Bee Live Workshop" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aAbwW4zW9Qo/Wiaz5leRcjI/AAAAAAAATfM/JWJwRFAtnVUiCSR37CZCzZT1ZhheTrdtgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20170923_103643504_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg" /></div><h3>How do I book?</h3>Newsletter subscribers had their codes sent out in January so could get in early for workshops - if you haven't signed up yet make sure you do as that is where discounts get released first. The <a href="http://eepurl.com/czwzaD">link is here</a>, and you'll get a monthly update, plus any earlybird discounts.<br /><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Use the code PETITE18 to get £2 off regular advance adult tickets and £1 off advance&nbsp; concessions</span></div><br />The Spring Knitting &amp; Stitching Show takes place from 1st-4th March 2018 at Olympia London. Tickets are on sale now and cost £13.50 in advance (concessions £12.50, children aged 5-18 £6.00)*. A wide selection of options is available from <a href="http://www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com/spring">www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com/spring</a> or by calling 0844 581 1319 (+44 0121 796 6165 from outside the UK).<br />*A booking fee of £1.50 is payable per order<br /><br /><br />Are you going? Say hi in the comments and share when you are going or if you have booked a workshop.<br /><br /></div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-29882587378318754092018-01-30T08:00:00.000+00:002018-01-30T08:00:09.857+00:00Sewing is more than just a hobby<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lpXQzA9huEo/WmJO9zaAdGI/AAAAAAAAUS8/BQ88GA621fM3gMvroPrHXbTKagMNDUwnQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/karly-santiago-319853.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Sewing is good for you" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lpXQzA9huEo/WmJO9zaAdGI/AAAAAAAAUS8/BQ88GA621fM3gMvroPrHXbTKagMNDUwnQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/karly-santiago-319853.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />Something a little different for you this week... a guest post all about how sewing is good for your health. I know lots of you have been taking part in <a href="https://athinakakou.com/2018/01/01/smyly2018-challenge-aka-sewing-makes-love/">#smyly</a>, and here are more reasons why sewing is more than just a way to pass the time. How many of these are truisms for you?<br /><a name='more'></a>First, a little bit about our guest blogger...<br /><br />Sally is a professional freelance writer with many years experience across many different areas. She made the move to freelancing from a stressful corporate job and loves the work-life balance it offers her. When not at work, Sally enjoys reading, hiking, spending time with her family and travelling as much as possible.<br /><br /><h2>The Different Ways Sewing Is More Than Just A Hobby</h2>Sewing is a hobby that <a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-4608044/Statistics-reveal-favorite-hobbies-rich-poor.html">transcends across the various income groups</a>, a recent study reveals. Where many of the other hobbies are limited to the income participants earn, such as many of the sports that require expensive equipment, sewing fills the gap between low and high-income earners. This means the sewing is one of those hobbies that tend to bring people from all walks of life together. It opens up new doors of friendship, but also happens to tick a few boxes<a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/11/threadcount-suit-jacket-finally.html#more"> when it comes to hobby satisfaction.</a><br /><h3>The Opportunity to Gain Financial Freedom</h3>Those who have a knack for needle and thread also have the opportunity to create items for others. Whether this is clothing, bedding, or other related items, a unique approach often fills the gap that department stores rarely do. When this happens, there is <a href="https://wellkeptwallet.com/hobbies-that-make-money/">the opportunity to earn additional funds</a> and possibly even create a secondary income which could turn into a main source of income. A good business plan and marketing strategy are often the only things that stand in the way of those who have a sewing gift from making it as a small business.<br /><br /><h3>A Great Way to Meet New Friends</h3>The fastest way to learn how to sew is through sewing classes and circles. These classes are filled with like-minded people who share your <a href="https://www.thriftycrates.com/6-ways-to-find-a-new-hobby/">interest in this great hobby</a>, and who are there to learn the same skill. When this happens, the opportunity to make new friends arises as everyone works towards the same goal. Friendships formed in a sewing circle often last a lifetime as they share patterns and work on similar projects. Those who have the skills to host a sewing circle or class, also have the opportunity to earn an income from this.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_S91C3Rfs-s/WmJQ-ryH4sI/AAAAAAAAUTI/aQBW_QLyMR0tgPJeOd04i0UsiINCtoiRwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/h-ng-nguy-n-256537.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Sewing is more than just a hobby" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_S91C3Rfs-s/WmJQ-ryH4sI/AAAAAAAAUTI/aQBW_QLyMR0tgPJeOd04i0UsiINCtoiRwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/h-ng-nguy-n-256537.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><h3>The Chance to Showcase Personal Style</h3>In a world where everything is generic and mass-produced, it’s great to have the opportunity to showcase a personal style and perhaps even create a personal brand. Whether clothing or other items, there is no limit to the styles and combinations.<br /><br /><h3>It’s Good for Your Health</h3>Stress is one of the leading causes of death and illness and <a href="https://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/happy-trails/201509/six-reasons-get-hobby">hobbies are proven to deal with this</a> stress. Not only does it distract the brain from stressful situations, it also allows the brain to focus on challenges and opportunities out of the stressful situation.<br /><br />The gentle purr of the sewing machine as the stitches line up one after the other is one of the keenest pleasures for those who take up this hobby. With more than just a recreational benefit, sewing provides a release in many different areas of life.<br /><div><br /></div><div><i>I know that for me, a lot of these are so true, and contribute a lot to the reasons I love to sew? What about you? What makes sewing more than just a hobby?</i></div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-41944805493804023412018-01-28T14:24:00.000+00:002018-01-28T14:24:26.072+00:00Friday Patterns Sunny dress and top for #sewmystyle2018<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ayctYvC-NYM/Wm3cjVANUOI/AAAAAAAAUfc/OJUK3Q5jwmQhvpR8fdPEGi8RUiHDkmj_gCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523sewmystyle%2B2018-2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Friday Patterns Sunny dress and top for #sewmystyle2018" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ayctYvC-NYM/Wm3cjVANUOI/AAAAAAAAUfc/OJUK3Q5jwmQhvpR8fdPEGi8RUiHDkmj_gCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523sewmystyle%2B2018-2.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />So it's the reveal day for this month's #sewmystyle 2018 pattern - the Sunny dress and top from <a href="https://www.fridaypatterncompany.com/">Friday patterns</a>. This was such a great project to start of the year's challenge. It was a simple enough pattern to not be too scary, and I love the whole ethos behind Friday patterns...they love to create minimalist patterns that are easy to sew, and they donate 5% of their sales to charity. Oh, and it's a great pattern to have to hand as well by the way!<br /><div><a name='more'></a><h3>Fabric</h3><div><div>I managed to source some fabric from this month's project sponsor, Stone Mountain and Daughter. It's a <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/shop/Fashion-Fabrics--Quilting-Cottons/Rayon/Rayon-Knits/p/Ponte-Leggero-Plum-x8378449.htm">ponte leggero</a>, which is a rayon base, making it super soft but still quite a stable knit. I chose a plum colour - something a bit different for me and as close as I'm going to get to Pantone's colour of the year I think! Dreamy is the only word I have for this fabric. It feels and looks amazing.</div></div></div><div>Sews great too. If I was paying domestic rather than international shipping, I'd order a ton of this.</div><div><br /></div><h3>Pattern and Instructions</h3><div>For your download you get the pattern pdf (print at home and copy shop) and instructions. The pattern didn't take too long to put together, and only has a few pieces. You can choose to make a top or dress from the pattern, and it has a scooped neckline and scalloped hem. If you want to add a neckband there is a link to a tutorial on drafting this for yourself. I think I would have preferred to have this included in the pattern, even though the tutorial is really interesting and helpful in building a bit more understanding about knit neckbands. Measurements are also not included in the instructions - you have to get these from the <a href="https://www.fridaypatterncompany.com/patterns/the-sunny-dress-top">shop website images</a> in order to figure out your size for cutting.</div><div><br /></div><div>The instructions are clear with diagrams, but I wouldn't recommend it for beginners because the neckband isn't included.&nbsp; I used my serger for construction, and my regular machine for hemming so it went together quite quickly too.</div><div><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1V4SzxjDkTc/Wm3c1DaG82I/AAAAAAAAUfk/IRgha_ZFnMk1uPxn6FlcOaBS7aNYYWx2ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523sewmystyle%2B2018.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Friday Patterns Sunny dress pattern review" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1V4SzxjDkTc/Wm3c1DaG82I/AAAAAAAAUfk/IRgha_ZFnMk1uPxn6FlcOaBS7aNYYWx2ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523sewmystyle%2B2018.jpg" title="" /></a></div><h3>Alterations</h3><div>I was after quite a short tunic to layer and wear with leggings so I took the pattern up quite a bit. I think I took it up too much to be honest....something went a little array with my calculations and it was a bit of a surprise when I put it on. As it is, it's kind of a good thing because I can also wear this as a top too. I did consider cutting it up and keeping it as a top, but it seems to wear okay both ways so I'm keeping my options open! I cut a size medium; it isn't tight but doesn't look as roomy as some of the other finished makes I've seen on the #sewmystyle2018 VIP Facebook page. I think I would grade up around the hips next time if I was to make a dress. I narrowed the arms as well, as the sleeves were a bit too roomy for my preference.</div><div><br /></div><div>I added a neckband as per the linked tutorial, but it didn't sit brilliantly so I turned it under and sewed it down. I used a twin needle to hem the bottom and cuffs, as I thought it would give a professional finish but it stretched these parts out so again, I wouldn't do this again.&nbsp;</div><div><br /></div><h3>Thoughts</h3><div><b>What I like about this make</b> - the fabric is gorgeous. I love it so much. I think I might also be tempted to raise the neckline for a top.</div><div><b>What I don't like about this make</b> - I took it up too much, and I'm not convinced about the neckline. Now I've made it once, I'd make a much more successful one second time around.</div><div><b>Would I recommend this pattern?</b> Yes - it's a simple quick make. I think it would be interesting to contrast the sleeve and neckband in a different fabric.</div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-17610797756230166312018-01-23T13:27:00.000+00:002018-01-23T13:27:01.828+00:00Wear a blanket to work...Seamwork Mesa<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rwJmiVzYx7Y/WmNCJNzmppI/AAAAAAAAUVs/NqWP4xeerYgM9DTZS5c4lWfXne_qcFrLQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/seamwork%2Bmesa-3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Pattern review of the Seamwork Mesa dress, with long sleeve alteration." border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rwJmiVzYx7Y/WmNCJNzmppI/AAAAAAAAUVs/NqWP4xeerYgM9DTZS5c4lWfXne_qcFrLQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/seamwork%2Bmesa-3.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This has been one of my most worn clothing items this season. When it's cold and dark in the mornings, and I'm feeling exhausted, all I want is comforting clothing. So my task this autumn was to find a way of achieving this, whilst maintaining a professional appearance for work. I have to say, the Seamwork Mesa pattern and quilted ponte combination I went with has totally smashed this. It's comfortable, quick to make, and everybody comments on it (always a nice touch when you've made it yourself and they don't know that). I know lots of you love the secret pyjamas idea - this is my version - a secret quilt!</div><div><a name='more'></a><h3><br /></h3><h3>Fabric</h3></div><div>I bought this fabric a while ago from <a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/product-category/jersey/ponte-roma-jersey/">Dragonfly Fabrics</a>. The exact same one isn't available from there any more, but they do have others there. I can't remember the cost at the time, but it was around the £12 mark I think.&nbsp; You can search for cloque jersey as well as quilted, and find other similar fabrics. The quilting effect does give this fabric body and weight. It's still got some stretch to it, but definitely feels more substantial than other pontes I've worked with....which is perfect for the job that I had mind. It cuts and sews like any other ponte - easily. I sewed this dress on my regular sewing machine, using a zig zag stitch. So far the fabric has been warm to wear, without being claustrophobic, and has held up to a fair amount of washing too. FYI I ordered 1.5m (and had some left overs), but I think if you were making a short sleeved version could manage with just 1m.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ZgvWg7pBmQ/WmM57kqlQaI/AAAAAAAAUUU/_nFtO6Q11FMuaYVvNs-8VD4xYT7nbDMyACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/seamwork%2Bmesa-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Seamwork Mesa dress in quilted jersey" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ZgvWg7pBmQ/WmM57kqlQaI/AAAAAAAAUUU/_nFtO6Q11FMuaYVvNs-8VD4xYT7nbDMyACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/seamwork%2Bmesa-2.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div><br /></div><h3>Pattern and Instructions</h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div>The pattern is from Seamwork magazine; if you are a subscriber, you get credits to spend on their patterns. All their patterns are intended to be quick sews too. The <a href="https://www.seamwork.com/catalog/mesa">Seamwork Mesa</a>&nbsp;is a relaxed fit dress, with short sleeves and side slits. It can be worn as a dress or as a tunic, and is designed for knit fabrics. The pattern recommends lighter weights than I used, but you can see that it turned out just fine.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img alt="Seamwork Mesa dress" src="https://www.seamwork.com/assets/catalog/3013/sw3013-mesa-01-large-5d7e3253d1e55cb33757f7233be3f266dbd9095bbd05b41de56e401b450a8008.jpg" title="" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>The download includes copy shop files as well as pdfs you can print at home, and standard Seamwork instructions. Their instructions always have a photograph of the finished article plus general tips for sewing to start with. It is always worth reading this because they often use a 3/8" seam allowance for knits. If you are used to 5/8" from other patterns this could easily catch you out (it did on my first Seamwork Astoria). The rest of the instructions are quite straightforward and have diagrams to help too. This really is a quick make because it doesn't require much fitting and is only made up of 5 pattern pieces.</div><div><br /></div><h3>Alterations</h3><div>I did make a couple of alterations to this pattern, and I required the Seamwork Astoria to do it. I wanted longer sleeves (it is a winter dress after all) and a slightly higher neckline. The Astoria is one of my favourite pattern pieces, and the<a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/11/sew-over-it-alex-shirt-and-seamwork.html"> lengthened version </a>I made last year is one of my other most worn work items this winter too.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div><br /></div><div>I merged the bodice pieces so that I could use the Astoria neckline on the Mesa dress, and used the Astoria neckband pattern piece instead of the Mesa one. I also used the Astoria sleeve pieces to guide the lengthening of the Mesa sleeves too. I also sewed my Mesa without the side slits, as this also wasn't the work appropriate look I was going for.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-44eS0K5OxRI/WmM8nyVFDlI/AAAAAAAAUU8/4dykkpd1CfsfkZU9jhBRrIht8UATYcHFACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Seamwork Astoria " border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-44eS0K5OxRI/WmM8nyVFDlI/AAAAAAAAUU8/4dykkpd1CfsfkZU9jhBRrIht8UATYcHFACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-3.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>When I had finished the Mesa I had ended up with it sitting just below my knees. It wasn't very flattering in this fabric on my short frame so I altered it to a much shorter length and used a nice wide hem to give some structure to the dress. I made a size M and didn't make any fitting alterations.</div><div><br /></div><div><h3>Thoughts</h3></div><div><b>What do I like about this pattern?</b> I like how quick it is to put together! It's a staple and dependable silhouette as well so could be used a lot to make comfortable casual wear, or dressed up too.</div><div><b>What I don't like about this pattern</b>....nothing. It's great as it is.</div><div><b>Would I make it again?</b> You betcha. I can see a summer version in a fun print coming up!</div><div><br /></div><div>And I love wearing this to work when it's cold and I'm tired!</div><div><br /></div><div>Do you have any secret pyjamas or blankets that you manage to get away with wearing out and about? Share your makes and pattern recommendations below!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_RvHMJT19U/WmNCNCdeuwI/AAAAAAAAUV0/zWTrf8aFV7Y_M75HhTg3LdBpgPK5uBwTgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/seamwork%2Bmesa.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Pattern review of the Seamwork Mesa dress, with long sleeve alteration." border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_RvHMJT19U/WmNCNCdeuwI/AAAAAAAAUV0/zWTrf8aFV7Y_M75HhTg3LdBpgPK5uBwTgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/seamwork%2Bmesa.jpg" title="" /></a></div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-35876225586178401132018-01-16T08:00:00.000+00:002018-01-16T08:00:42.677+00:00Sewing activewear, plus GBSB live workshop<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dcknlKmgmnA/WiauzaHtz-I/AAAAAAAATeQ/rQpu5yYGsbAAggVWDOJTzGmlhUgICFHqQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sewing activewear, plus GBSB live workshop" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dcknlKmgmnA/WiauzaHtz-I/AAAAAAAATeQ/rQpu5yYGsbAAggVWDOJTzGmlhUgICFHqQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-6.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I was lucky enough to get booked into a workshop for the Great British Sewing Bee Live. I chose the workshop on making yoga pants using an overlocker and coverstitch machine with Jade Early (aka 'the girl with the bright red hair'). Although I haven't had a burning desire to make activewear, I was looking forward to moving beyond my basic serging and also to use a coverstitch machine. I won't be purchasing one in the near future so thought I'd take the opportunity to use one on a garment and see how I liked it.</div><div><br /></div><div>Unfortunately the organisers of the GBSB live decided to skip the coverstitch machines and we found this out on the day. So, this activewear has been sewn using a combination of regular machine and serger. I managed to get a fair way through the yoga pants, and was able to finish these at home along with using the remnant fabric for a top too...perfect timing for my fitness goals for the New Year!<br /><a name='more'></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aAbwW4zW9Qo/Wiaz5leRcjI/AAAAAAAATfM/JWJwRFAtnVUiCSR37CZCzZT1ZhheTrdtgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20170923_103643504_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Great British Sewing Bee Live Workshop" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aAbwW4zW9Qo/Wiaz5leRcjI/AAAAAAAATfM/JWJwRFAtnVUiCSR37CZCzZT1ZhheTrdtgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20170923_103643504_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg" title="" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting expert help at the GBSB live!</td></tr></tbody></table><h3>Pattern and Instructions</h3><div>As I was taking part in the workshop, I used the pattern that was recommended in the course description: <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/shop/sewing/patterns/butterick-6295-a5-butterick-ladies-sewing-pattern-6295-top-leggings-bra-top?gclid=CjwKCAiApJnRBRBlEiwAPTgmxNuFxgxHnsamTU3o1tJJTTD6tEu9QvPymef8oyPUqxnAXEUHqIIl8BoCNP4QAvD_BwE">Butterick 6295.</a>&nbsp;This includes leggings and two bra tops. Closer to the course date Jade sent out a different pattern to use but I already had this one. I think that the other one may have had an easier waistband. I didn't have problems attaching this one so would say it's fine. I think I deviated slightly from the instructions when inserting the elastic for the waistband but it all ended up looking correct so must be fine. I used wide elastic and, as always, cut it too big so could really do with unpicking and taking it in more.</div><div><br /></div><div>I will say it was lovely to have a lovely gift bag waiting at our BabyLock machines for us. Thank you Jade! I did need the seam ripper that was included in there....</div><div><br /></div><div>Regarding instructions....</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jqu4LBpw4oI/Wiaux6rIScI/AAAAAAAATeA/XaV6VQk1Rr8yOAwcY0njjYLyh4YKIcahwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Butterick 6295" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jqu4LBpw4oI/Wiaux6rIScI/AAAAAAAATeA/XaV6VQk1Rr8yOAwcY0njjYLyh4YKIcahwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-9.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I was lucky to have Jade taking us through some of the steps for this which made life a lot easier. To be fair though, the construction isn't too complicated. I say that, having left off the pockets because I had sewn them incorrectly. I wasn't too keen on the pockets for my style of work out so happy to ditch them. The rest of the construction (for the top and the bottoms) does need some careful reading and checking before stitching. The bottoms have front, back and side panels with a yoke piece under the back waistband. Jade also showed us how to sew the bottoms with exposed seams (I think they look better with hidden though).</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The most useful part of the workshop was having help with fitting the bottoms. I cut a size 14, as ever, as per the measurements on the envelope. I know I always cut this size and it's too big, but not having used this kind of fabric before, thought it would be better to cut big and take in then cut too small and be stuck. Most people needed some fitting help and it was helpful to be shown where to take out excess fabric most effectively (mainly side seams). When I got home I ended up taking in even more from every seam. An excellent opportunity to compare the work from the two machines! The finish from the BabyLock had a lot more thread used, completely covering the edge of the seam. Whilst this looked sturdier, I found that it was looking bulky underneath the fabric. I essentially serged off everything that had gone through the overlocker previously. Out of the two finishes, the one from my Singer has turned out better for this project (it's 10% of the cost of the Baby Locks used at the show).</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2pZIzYkzzgg/WiauzCT9r0I/AAAAAAAATeM/r3_e9V2jpK4UhDGqVjsOCXovrA4UnFlYgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sewing activewear, plus GBSB live workshop" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2pZIzYkzzgg/WiauzCT9r0I/AAAAAAAATeM/r3_e9V2jpK4UhDGqVjsOCXovrA4UnFlYgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-11.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>As you can see I also managed to make the top from the pattern package with my remnant fabric. I&nbsp; didn't make it exactly as instructed, omitting the concealed bra pads and elastic, just using the facing pattern piece on the inside of the top bodice. The straps cross over at the back and need a bit of finessing to look sleek rather than a bulky mess, but it is achievable and looks good now. They really didn't at first and I would say this was the trickiest part of the top construction.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you get a chance to go to the GBSB love, do...it's more sewing focused than other shows and has lots of lovely fabric to buy. Next time I will sign up for another workshop too. I'd love to refine my hand sewing skills so will be on the look out for one of these.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--0kL_zlL2d0/Wia5Y4LypZI/AAAAAAAATfc/Ei-nNMHMVxUGE2P_1J7FKNgcpDjTQ9AZACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/flowers%2526%2Bplants%2B%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Great British Sewing Bee Live" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--0kL_zlL2d0/Wia5Y4LypZI/AAAAAAAATfc/Ei-nNMHMVxUGE2P_1J7FKNgcpDjTQ9AZACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/flowers%2526%2Bplants%2B%25281%2529.png" title="" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><h3>Fabric</h3></div><div>I bought 1 metre each of the plain and contrast styles, as per the recommendations on the pattern envelope. I had enough left over to make a top with so could have managed with just 1 metre if I was making the pants only (which was my original intention). There is quite a range of activewear fabrics out there, and all I would say is to order samples if this is new to you. It's quite expensive so a sample is a worthwhile investment. As a knit fabric it is very easy to cut and sew with. I put mine straight through the overlocker which made it really speedy to work with.</div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div>I'm happy with what I completed, but am disappointed with not being able to use a coverstitch machine which would have made both items look really professional. As it is, I'm not sure I would make activewear again, as it works out about the same as an outfit from the high street, and not a great deal different. Off I go to get lots of wear from this with my new fitness resolutions for 2018!</div></div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-70303493730592616932018-01-05T11:37:00.000+00:002018-01-16T07:28:56.321+00:00Minerva Crafts Blogger Network - Simplicity 8292 in Atelier Brunette Crepe<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dwy7p27cJIc/WiaBFwqxPpI/AAAAAAAATbo/S5W-vThSGUQDqe2FeD2ymQZQkdUNqK_CwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/mcbn%2Bfabric.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Minerva Crafts Blogger Network - Simplicity 8292 in Atelier Brunette Crepe" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dwy7p27cJIc/WiaBFwqxPpI/AAAAAAAATbo/S5W-vThSGUQDqe2FeD2ymQZQkdUNqK_CwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/mcbn%2Bfabric.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />This is a Minerva Crafts Blogger Network make, so for full details head on over there to find out more about how I made this beauty. Atelier Brunette fabrics are clearly pick of the month for me, with December kicking off with a super comfortable sweatshirt made in their beautiful French terry. This dress uses their soft and drapey crepe, which is perfect for the delicate fluted sleeves of this Simplicity dress.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-58hwJ6X6jxc/WiaBVLawSeI/AAAAAAAATbw/BMY2mRJsxfMZeo4VG7sVSaQSNVSdEgrTgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/mcbn-2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Minerva Crafts Blogger Network - Simplicity 8292 in Atelier Brunette Crepe" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-58hwJ6X6jxc/WiaBVLawSeI/AAAAAAAATbw/BMY2mRJsxfMZeo4VG7sVSaQSNVSdEgrTgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/mcbn-2.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="more"></a>As you know December's #wardrobebuilder theme is party dresses, of which I have managed to create plenty since beginning learning to sew. Although I have quite a few occasion dresses, I've noticed a gap in my handmade wardrobe for special occasion dresses that can be worn to day events as well as evening ones. Some kind of sleeve would also be welcome, given that the weather in the UK is likely to be too cold for sleeveless attire. That's why Simplicity 8292 struck me as a pattern that could do 'double duty' for evening and other events, such as weddings, so long as I chose the right fabric.<br /><br />Normally I am also drawn to floral prints, but using a plain (yet high quality) fabric has meant that I can accessorise this dress for the occasion, and really makes a feature of the fluted sleeves. The Atelier Brunette crepe is soft and lightweight; it helps with the drape of the sleeves and has enough body to hold up to the rest of the dress. The bodice of this pattern is lined, and this sits perfectly underneath the main fabric.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-45WjQBDdnqg/WiaEp-8BoPI/AAAAAAAATb8/khLIeLEymGs5F-e4JC6caIvhCBYYZYIwgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/mcbn.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Minerva Crafts Blogger Network - Simplicity 8292 in Atelier Brunette Crepe" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-45WjQBDdnqg/WiaEp-8BoPI/AAAAAAAATb8/khLIeLEymGs5F-e4JC6caIvhCBYYZYIwgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/mcbn.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />Having had a look at the finished measurements, previous experience with commercial patterns and an attempt at tissue fitting led me to cut a size 12. This fit very well at the bodice, but was a little tight at the hips. I had to pick the seams at the side and back at the hips and stitch again using a 1cm seam instead...next time I'll grade out to a size 14 here!<br /><br />More details over on the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network, and links to all the supplies too.<br /><div><a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blog/projects/atelier-brunette-crepe-dress-by-laura">https://www.minervacrafts.com/blog/projects/atelier-brunette-crepe-dress-by-laura</a></div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-36504086128047117012018-01-01T10:30:00.000+00:002018-01-01T10:30:18.274+00:00#sewmystyle 2018 January: the Friday patterns Sunny dress and topHappy New Year! After finding so much inspiration from other makers last year with the #wardrobebuilder project, I've teamed up with an awesome international team of bloggers to lead in&nbsp; #sewmystyle2018. This is the first month of the project, featuring the Sunny dress and top by Friday patterns, sponsored by Stone Mountain and Daughter fabrics. Every month I'll be keeping to my #wardrobebuilder habits, posting inspiration and ideas for each month, along with a final reveal at the end of the month. Make sure you are keping up with us on social media, and if you haven't yet signed up to the project....do it quickly......there are some fabulous patterns coming up on the schedule!<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-356HJN6pTds/WkfLKKz3y0I/AAAAAAAAUAg/1nJFv8Bb6vYFUJnPxzMIXYw08te5XnSsgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Pattern%2BAnnouncements.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="#sewmystyle 2018 January: the Friday patterns Sunny dress and top" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-356HJN6pTds/WkfLKKz3y0I/AAAAAAAAUAg/1nJFv8Bb6vYFUJnPxzMIXYw08te5XnSsgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Pattern%2BAnnouncements.png" title="" /></a><br /><br /><a name='more'></a>The Sunny dress and top is a great pattern to start the year with. It's a knit pattern that is suitable for beginners, and can easily become a wardrobe staple. The Friday patterns site also has helpful tutorials and tips if you are not confident in sewing knits, so this one is something I'm looking forward to after my Christmas sewing break.<br /><br /><h3>Fabrics I'm loving for this project</h3><br />Well, this month's sponsors,<a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/shop/Fashion-Fabrics--Quilting-Cottons/Knits.htm"> Stonemountain and Daughter,</a> have a great range of knits available in their store. Although they have a wide range of prints, I'm quite drawn to their plain pontes, especially the purple (which is as close as I can find to Pantone's 2018 colour of the year).<br /><br />If I'm sewing knits then I have to check out <a href="http://www.girlcharlee.co.uk/">Girl Charlee.</a>...it is their speciality! They have such a good range of prints. On my watch list is this grey stripe which I think could make a perfect 'neutral' top to match with jeans.<br /><br />I know that most of you will recognise my third fabric&nbsp; -Art Gallery knits are always stylish and are also comfortable to wear too. This one is from <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/shop/Fashion-Fabrics--Quilting-Cottons/Knits.htm">Maud's Fabric Finds, </a>which has an interesting selection of prints that you might not come across normally.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zOunsBar4WM/WkfPVgVLtNI/AAAAAAAAUAs/VFcdvlkOLxAEX4PdlDbrEHYnLBi0f9PBACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Bfabric%2B%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="#sewmystyle 2018 January: the Friday patterns Sunny dress and top" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zOunsBar4WM/WkfPVgVLtNI/AAAAAAAAUAs/VFcdvlkOLxAEX4PdlDbrEHYnLBi0f9PBACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Bfabric%2B%25281%2529.png" title="" /></a><br /><br />Those of you who followed the #wardrobebuilder project will also know that I love to use Pinterest to save my inspiration ideas. I've got a new one for #sewmystyle2018 if you need a few ideas. I'm into the contrast neckband now from looking through these! and also open to using a rib knit...............<br />(advance warning - I'm thinking of the dress so most of my photos are of these rather than top versions!)<br />You can follow along on Pinterest too if that's how you store your dressmaking ideas.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a data-pin-board-width="800" data-pin-do="embedBoard" data-pin-scale-height="400" data-pin-scale-width="150" href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/apetitepassion/sewmystyle2018-inspiration/"></a> Leave links to your makes in the comments below. I can't wait to see what you all make this month!Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-20264225510775829752017-12-19T16:13:00.000+00:002017-12-19T16:13:02.747+00:00#thelittlereddressproject 2017 - By Hand London Alix dress<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4SHBEQlp3FE/WiaGIxSlA_I/AAAAAAAATcI/MEl7DD60or4BFsKxUNTRKB4l4be91nUSwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4SHBEQlp3FE/WiaGIxSlA_I/AAAAAAAATcI/MEl7DD60or4BFsKxUNTRKB4l4be91nUSwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-15.jpg" /></a><br />Last year my little red dress project took a little longer than I had planned, and only appeared on the blog in February! This year I've been a bit more organised and have one ready for the reveal date, although I feel it is a mixed success.&nbsp;This is a perfect example of when everything goes right, but somehow ends up wrong.........<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><h3>Fabric</h3><br />The Alix dress is intended for light to medium weight wovens. I ordered a medium weight crepe in red from <a href="https://www.thesplendidstitch.co.uk/collections/crepe/products/sibylle-red-poly-crepe">Splendid Stitch</a>&nbsp;for £10.80 per metre. Although the crepe is good quality and was nice to work with, it was not appropriate for this dress, which is why I'm not overly happy with it. The crepe is too thick for the pattern and does not sit well at the bodice or in the sleeves. A lighter weight, if only slightly lighter, fabric would be much better suited. A viscose crepe such as the Atelier Brunette fabric I used for my Minerva Crafts Blogger Network dress would be fine, a satin backed crepe would be less successful.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--CUxCqI6DIg/WiarOO8z5wI/AAAAAAAATdE/Ax6zumKdxec6aM6AGemcyQ8UivQdwuaOACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/bhl%2Balix-3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="#thelittlereddressproject 2017 - By Hand London Alix dress" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--CUxCqI6DIg/WiarOO8z5wI/AAAAAAAATdE/Ax6zumKdxec6aM6AGemcyQ8UivQdwuaOACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/bhl%2Balix-3.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><h3>Pattern and Instructions</h3><a href="https://byhandlondon.com/products/alix-dress-pdf-sewing-pattern">By Hand London's</a> patterns are only available in pdf format, and for £9.50 you get three versions of the dress pattern in print at home and copy shop pdf, as well as pdf instructions. The dress features a v neck yoke, wide waistband, raglan sleeves and pleats at the centre front and back. The sleeves are big and blousy with a pleat at the top (which I love) and an elasticated wrist. The fit is achieved through the waistband ties, and there are three skirt lengths which go from floor length to a blouse.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2NFo361q2A8/WiarQnNjJPI/AAAAAAAATdM/lvyxr33S2owTQ_g5qhx0e_9luvzP1_Q9wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/bhl%2Balix-2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="#thelittlereddressproject 2017 - By Hand London Alix dress" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2NFo361q2A8/WiarQnNjJPI/AAAAAAAATdM/lvyxr33S2owTQ_g5qhx0e_9luvzP1_Q9wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/bhl%2Balix-2.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />I chose the middle length which sits above the knee...I didn't alter the length and this is where it sits on me. I nearly always have to take some off the bottom of patterns so unless you are 5ft like me, check it out first. The v neck front is also fairly deep - it's just on the limit of where I would wear mine too without an insert underneath so also worth checking out with a toile too. I cut the size 8/12 which was a good fit for me (usually UK high street size 10), aided by the easy fitting waist!<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OeizUK8JebM/WiaHM1wNzyI/AAAAAAAATcU/pmKsxbFProwtdN437FpKxOybsEPD4x6dACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-5.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="#thelittlereddressproject 2017 - By Hand London Alix dress" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OeizUK8JebM/WiaHM1wNzyI/AAAAAAAATcU/pmKsxbFProwtdN437FpKxOybsEPD4x6dACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-5.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />The instructions are very clear, as are the diagrams. The most complicated part of this dress is the front bodice and yoke, but this is all achievable with the instructions. The sleeves are an easy fit, as is the waistband (although it does look more difficult than it is). I particularly like the pleats which add a nice shape to the skirt. The only comment I would have is that it would be helpful if the instructions had more details to help when sewing with fine fabrics, seeing as these would be the best choice for this pattern.<br /><br /><br /><h3>Thoughts</h3>I was really looking forward to this dress - I have loved this pattern since it was first released. I still do love the pattern but would have to make it in entirely different fabric. I think that perhaps the bright scarlet doesn't help along with the thickness as it stands out so much....To be honest I feel like I'm in a Mrs Claus outfit so probably won't wear it now.<br /><br />If I was making this again I would go for a floor length version in georgette. I also think that I would look to change the cuffs slightly - elastic isn't one of my favourites, especially when coupled with the crepe I used. If I do make another one I'll be sure to post it as a version I'm happier with. For now though, I made a red dress in a pattern I liked, but don't think I'll be wearing it for the events I have planned for this Christmas at least. Have you ever had a make that didn't turn out quite right, even though it went together and fit well?Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-79626569344817673022017-12-18T09:25:00.000+00:002017-12-18T09:25:23.853+00:00#sewmystyle 2018 launching!<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0AY44W-1uMs/Wja8YRkQrDI/AAAAAAAATw0/hrlr2q3HHT0pkVo-SM5gJH3UVXPBkDbEwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523SewMyStyle%2BBlog%2B%2BHeader%2BImage%2BWIde.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0AY44W-1uMs/Wja8YRkQrDI/AAAAAAAATw0/hrlr2q3HHT0pkVo-SM5gJH3UVXPBkDbEwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523SewMyStyle%2BBlog%2B%2BHeader%2BImage%2BWIde.png" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>I've had a few messages asking if I'm continuing the #wardrobebuilder next year. Initially I planned for it to last for one year, and I am going to leave it as a 2017 project because I feel it has come to a natural end. It's been great fun; I've loved finding inspiration from the sewing community, and discovering more about how to make my handmade wardrobe successful. However, it is quite lonely, and I wanted to spend more time in 2018 getting involved on other projects..... and then Jessica Lorraine put out a call for leaders to get involved in the 2018 #sewmystyle. I have found having a monthly project really helpful in focusing my sewing and making it more purposeful, so tossed my hat in the ring to join in .................<br /><a name='more'></a><br />Last year there were over 1000 people who signed up to be involved and we are hoping we will get even more this year, with the project being led by a team of international bloggers, including me! If you follow me on Instagram you'll find links to the whole team. Thank you to everyone who sent in their feedback from last year's #sewmystyle - we have used it to pick this year's line up. I have also been privileged to be so involved in the #wardrobebuilder project, taking forward what you liked most about this too. Because #sewmystyle is focused on one pattern at a time it means we can bring you all some great discounts!</div><div><br />We will be sewing 12 items in 12 months; the patterns will be simple, seasonally transitional and on trend. We are working with a range of independent pattern designers to bring together a selection of different garments that can be adapted in a number of ways to suit each maker's individual style. On the first of the month each pattern is released, along with a nice discount for those of you who are signed up. Throughout the month bloggers will be posting their inspiration and joining you on the making journey, with the final reveal on the last Sunday of each month. you can follow along with my makes at here on the petite passions blog.<br /><br />There are monthly sponsors offering prizes for participants' makes each month so make sure you post your pics to be in with a chance of winning. <a href="http://www.jessicalorraine.com/project-sewmystyle">The full line up and details can be found here.</a>&nbsp;</div><div><br /></div><div>I hope you enjoy 2018's project as much as the #wardrobebuilder!</div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-44156555084404614612017-12-12T13:01:00.000+00:002017-12-12T13:01:22.244+00:00Deer and Doe Belladone dress in Scuba fabric<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jGZfbcT1PRw/Wi0xyzj8LLI/AAAAAAAATpM/0I63o3idC-o2Wtak0kJ8FWHXZpvJdioeQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/scuba%2Bbelladone%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Deer and Doe Belladone dress in Scuba knit fabric" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jGZfbcT1PRw/Wi0xyzj8LLI/AAAAAAAATpM/0I63o3idC-o2Wtak0kJ8FWHXZpvJdioeQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/scuba%2Bbelladone%2B2.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />I am now officially sorted for New Year's Eve (well, what I'm wearing, nowhere booked yet). I have had the Belladone pattern cut out and ready to sew with since June....the only problem was I couldn't find the right fabric for it. Really, I wanted what was on the model on the Deer and Doe website, but haven't found anything close to it. Everything I did find that I thought might have enough structure for the skirt looked like I would be wearing a pair of curtains. That was until I was window shopping in a high end high street retailer, and noticed that a lot of their skater dresses were stretch fabrics....and of course I thought...'I'm not going to buy that, I can make it!'<br /><a name='more'></a><h3>Fabric</h3><br />The Belladone dress is meant for woven fabrics. Scuba fabric is a stretchy knit fabric and wouldn't normally be featured in the suggested list. however, it is quite a sturdy knit fabric and doesn't have a huge amount of stretch. I had seen other dressmakers get away with using scuba in other woven patterns and thought it could be managed here. The fabric itself is a navy based floral from <a href="https://www.sewessential.co.uk/floral-scuba-digital-print-fabric-navy-and-wine">Sew Essential</a> for £15 per metre. The colours are gorgeous and I had originally intended it for a <a href="https://www.sewessential.co.uk/misses-knit-bodycon-dresses-mccalls-pattern-7531">McCall's 7531</a> bodycon style dress, but had been holding off as it could be quite similar to one of my Phase Eight dresses.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YBVXFUjL11E/Wi1JPmlwYoI/AAAAAAAATs0/mqjSj3u55KsR2lmsuPXr88_NLUekbUrKwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-12-10%2B02.27.32%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="sewing with scuba fabric" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YBVXFUjL11E/Wi1JPmlwYoI/AAAAAAAATs0/mqjSj3u55KsR2lmsuPXr88_NLUekbUrKwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-12-10%2B02.27.32%2B1.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />It was the first time I had used scuba fabric so I'll try to describe it a little better for anyone else who hasn't before. It is a little heavier than ponte roma, and doesn't have a lot of drape, but does have some bounce back when you fold it. I cut mine out on the fold using a rotary cutter which was fine but probably should have been done on a single layer. Theoretically it could have gone through the serger too, but I didn't have matching thread to hand for this machine, and used my regular one instead. However, I did use my walking foot to make sure I wasn't stretching anything unevenly, and used a ballpoint needle along with a zig zag stitch. I had no problems with sewing and even the parts I had to unpick recovered fairly well (though I wouldn't count on it). Scuba edges don't need finishing because they don't fray, which is always a time saving plus for me! Pattern marking were easier too - I used washable pen on the reverse.<br /><h3><br />Pattern and Instructions</h3>The <a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/8-belladone-dress-pattern.html">Belladone dress</a> is available from Deer and Doe patterns in pdf and printed versions. This is the first time I had used this company and was looking forward to it, having heard that they draft their patterns for an hourglass shaped figure. This dress makes a feature of this kind of figure, being cinched in at the waist with an A line skirt flaring out underneath. The bodice is sleeveless, with Version A having a cutout back. Version B is a closed back. Both versions have pockets too.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vB1r17UtenA/Wi1JqhJm30I/AAAAAAAATs8/qjXYgfTLwzogDIKpqKBjJGvBS2x96_nogCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-12-10%2B02.27.30%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Deer and Doe Belladone dress pattern review" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vB1r17UtenA/Wi1JqhJm30I/AAAAAAAATs8/qjXYgfTLwzogDIKpqKBjJGvBS2x96_nogCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-12-10%2B02.27.30%2B1.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />&nbsp;The instructions are printed in two booklets; one English and one French. The pattern itself is multi-sized on paper, rather than tissue. Only the pocket piece needs tracing off separately. The instruction booklet has clear instructions and diagrams. I found it easy to follow along with and that the construction was not too complicated. That said, I wouldn't recommend it for a beginner. Some experience with zips, darts and bias tape would be needed first. This was also the first pattern I had that used a facing for the hem instead of a turn.<br /><br />Also good to know...the darts and pleats either side of the waistband match up beautifully.<br /><br /><h3>Alterations</h3>I cut a size 40 to start with, knowing that I would be adjusting for a knit fabric. At the cutting stage I also left off the pockets, which meant that I had to trace an extended front skirt panel (just matching up the pocket facing to where it would be sewn to). I also chose to leave off the hem facings, figuring a turned hem would have less bulk. I just about got this out of 1.5m of fabric...and this included cutting out back bodice pieces for both versions by accident. Plus sleeves...<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jAY0NvOKNg4/Wi00E6zT8LI/AAAAAAAATpY/sQcZNx_lqiUPbEdP0LQbxWmK4RIZoC60gCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/scuba%2Bbelladone%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Deer and Doe Belladone dress in Scuba fabric" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jAY0NvOKNg4/Wi00E6zT8LI/AAAAAAAATpY/sQcZNx_lqiUPbEdP0LQbxWmK4RIZoC60gCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/scuba%2Bbelladone%2B3.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />You have probably noticed that my version has sleeves. These are not included in the Belladone pattern and it is meant to be sleeveless. I felt that I could get more mileage out of small sleeves (which is they style in the high street shops I usually buy). I started out cutting the sleeves from the Day Dress. After pinning these in I realised I needed to reduce the arch of the sleeve head because scuba does not need to be gathered to fit into the armhole. After a little experimentation I reduced the arch by about 1 inch at the apex and tapered this out to the sides.<br /><br />Because I had used a fabric with stretch, I found that I could get the dress on and off without needing a zip. I removed this along with 4.5cm of fabric from centre back of the bodice narrowing to 4cm at the waistband. This then widens out again to the original seam line in the centre back skirt. I didn't want to take too much out of the skirt because I love the perky fullness of it.<br /><br />I also took out 1 cm at each end of the neckline at the shoulders and trued out the neckline...this was to create more of a slash neck effect rather than full on round neck (personal preference only). The neckline did cause me more headscratching than anything else because I couldn't decide how to finish it neatly. With hindsight, I should have created a much larger facing piece (closer to a lining) which would have had a smooth finish. Instead I used a cross grain strip of fabric, about 4 cm wide, which I applied as clean finish knit neckline binding. There is a lot of help for this and other knit neckline finishes on the <a href="https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/how-to-bind-knit-edges-the-ultimate-guide">Colette site here.</a> I used a stretch stitch to anchor it in place as I think it looks more professional than a zig zag stitch. It is very bulky at the back where the bodice panels overlap, even with grading the seams.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m__IMvmVdUQ/Wi1J9418nkI/AAAAAAAATtI/dcCnvZMFmngpIzW15YZbP0NlYgSKz3rpgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-12-10%2B02.27.33%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m__IMvmVdUQ/Wi1J9418nkI/AAAAAAAATtI/dcCnvZMFmngpIzW15YZbP0NlYgSKz3rpgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2017-12-10%2B02.27.33%2B1.jpg" /></a><br /><h3>Thoughts</h3>I was after a dress that wasn't too formal but still made for an occasion, which I think I've achieved. The sleeves do add a bit more versatility, though it does look a lot like my Day Dress now! The scuba is holding up well to the pattern I think, and I love the skirt on this dress. It's also super comfortable, having that extra stretch in the fabric too. The back panels add some interest but you can probably see I'm not overly thrilled with the pattern placement on the back. I spent ages choosing the right part for the front bodice, and hadn't realised that this had happened - it's repeated identically on both sides which looks odd.<br /><br />I would definitely make this pattern again, and am keen to try a woven version too. I know that the alterations I made won't translate so I will need to start again, but would still use the 40 as a base size. I'm keen to hear which fabrics you may have used for this dress, or would recommend..........<br /><br /><br />Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-78867257106483067942017-12-05T11:00:00.001+00:002017-12-05T11:00:39.714+00:00Named Sloane Sweatshirt in Atelier Brunette dazzle French terry<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K_CenX2NznM/WiZ6L-aqE5I/AAAAAAAATa4/imdE2jsmoCQw9oirLQJq9I4P7R4sZyMHgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Named Sloane Sweatshirt in Atelier Brunette dazzle French terry" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K_CenX2NznM/WiZ6L-aqE5I/AAAAAAAATa4/imdE2jsmoCQw9oirLQJq9I4P7R4sZyMHgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-4.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />This is already my favourite make of this season....it's so comfortable and I've hardly taken it off since it was finished! This fabric is gorgeous and perfectly suited to the Sloane. I knew a while ago I wanted more tops that I could wear in the cold weather, but not necessarily too casual. The Sloane sweatshirt has some shaping through the use of darts, straight set sleeves, along with neck, cuff and hip bands. The pairing of this pattern and fabric has left me with a secretly comfortable top that looks fabulous. You can see how much I love it in these photos!<br /><a name='more'></a><br /><h3>Fabric</h3>I bought this from <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/shop/fabric/dress-fabrics/abt4-atelier-brunette-dazzle-french-terry-dress-fabric-night-per-metre?gclid=CjwKCAiApJnRBRBlEiwAPTgmxIoViWailI6FoCsRDdBg04PO6FcxkEIIuak5GUOQKI664In8LXTi-xoCS-UQAvD_BwE">Minerva Crafts</a>. There was a 20% discount code for Atelier Brunette fabrics in an issue of Sew Now. I always take note of the discounts in each issue...this was one I had been waiting for. I've had my eye on these sparkly Atelier Brunette fabrics since they were released last winter, but at £20.99 a metre, had held off until I could get hold of them a little cheaper. The style I chose has small gold flecks (4mm or so) on a navy background. There are lots of colourways available in it also comes in dots as well as flecks.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VdkCbZ1ai8o/WiZ6dvF2mVI/AAAAAAAATbA/y_3YPnk5h4syV6CKCDeZmRSUWw1g_ZnrwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20171027_150834_472.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Named Sloane Sweatshirt in Atelier Brunette dazzle French terry" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VdkCbZ1ai8o/WiZ6dvF2mVI/AAAAAAAATbA/y_3YPnk5h4syV6CKCDeZmRSUWw1g_ZnrwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20171027_150834_472.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />I have never made a sweatshirt before, and knew what kind of fabric I wanted, but not what it was called. Luckily this is exactly it. The back of the fabric has a soft, brushed texture - perfect for a cosy sweatshirt. Though the pattern uses cuff ribbing, I chose to use the same fabric for the whole top to help with a more formal than casual look. Though it's quite thick, it cuts and sews easily - I stitched this entirely on my normal sewing machine with basic stitches and a ballpoint needle.<br /><br /><h3>Pattern and Instructions</h3>I seriously considered a Grainline Linden. I still haven't made one and see that they are really popular (in general but especially this year).....also in this fabric too! However, I'm wasn't overly keen on the raglan sleeves. I think they are perfect for casual sweatshirts, but a regular sleeve might look a little more formal and help me get away with wearing this on more occasions. I love my longline Seamwork Astoria, which has the sleeve fit I was after, but this is a little too tight fitting for this look. Other contenders were the the Sewaholic Fraser sweatshirt, but this is quite a pricey pattern, if you can find it. Eventually it was the <a href="https://www.namedclothing.com/shop/sloane-sweatshirt/">Named Sloane </a>that ticked all the boxes, and at 7 Euros, was downloaded ready for making. (much as I love printed patterns, I've been trying to curb my spend, and after splurging on fabric, went for the cheaper pdf version).<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sUkWSTaaa5A/WiZ6s0qBERI/AAAAAAAATbI/O9bXyj8DdQ8nvMbTaZm8LmSj4VrVSpM5wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-18.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Named Sloane Sweatshirt in Atelier Brunette dazzle French terry" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sUkWSTaaa5A/WiZ6s0qBERI/AAAAAAAATbI/O9bXyj8DdQ8nvMbTaZm8LmSj4VrVSpM5wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-18.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />When you download the pattern you get an instruction booklet and a series of pattern pages, containing two sizes each. The instruction booklet includes finished measurements as well as their standard pattern sizing information - I cut a size 10 based on these. It also matches my UK high street size and fits perfectly. The instructions include basic cutting and sewing information for any pattern.<br /><br />The sewing instructions themselves are very clear with helpful diagrams. The techniques themselves are fairly straightforward. This is the first time I have used a straight stretch stitch (directed for the darts and topstitching the neckband), and was glad to have come across it. I much prefer using this stitch instead of a zigzag for securing the neckband as it looks more professional. The neckband lies nice and flat too which isn't always the case with these kinds of tops.<br /><br /><h3>Thoughts</h3>I really do love this - both how it looks and how it feels. This could be a very speedy sew and completed in an afternoon if you needed it. Apart from using the same fabric for the bands, I didn't make or need any alterations at all - a welcome change!!!<br /><br />I was a little unsure how the darts would turn out in the sweatshirting, but they are fine, and add shaping to the top which helps if you are a little shorter like me....definitely more flattering than without. The length is also spot on for where I like tops to fall to as well.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S8njIaS-_20/WiZ62Y7xzxI/AAAAAAAATbY/05kgLAodPsYt0WEuZYu8S85JWS5VtzkggCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-14.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Named Sloane Sweatshirt in Atelier Brunette dazzle French terry" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S8njIaS-_20/WiZ62Y7xzxI/AAAAAAAATbY/05kgLAodPsYt0WEuZYu8S85JWS5VtzkggCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-14.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />I would definitely recommend both the fabric and the pattern. I have a little fabric left over - enough for a short sleeved top maybe? Certainly enough for a contrast panel if needed....I know the newer Named sweatshirt uses an interesting geometric panel which I could use this remnant for.<br /><br />What is your favourite sweatshirt pattern?<br /><br /><br />Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-52934211062941571162017-12-03T11:44:00.000+00:002017-12-03T11:49:12.874+00:00the #wardrobebuilder project - Party DressesIt's the last month of the 2017 #wardrobebuilder project, and I'm super excited about this month's theme. Party dresses are my absolute, most favouritest ever, things to make. I love finding patterns and fabrics for them as well as the making process itself. These are the makes that I like to take time on and try to achieve a polished finish. If I'm going to toile anything it will be one of these!<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X3zl-iGdFxs/WiPSRjhXRhI/AAAAAAAATXo/V33zxrZRACIgZ6gXXKz_n_vOAwFm4ygZQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Bdec.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="the #wardrobebuilder project - Party Dresses" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X3zl-iGdFxs/WiPSRjhXRhI/AAAAAAAATXo/V33zxrZRACIgZ6gXXKz_n_vOAwFm4ygZQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Bdec.png" title="" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><h3>Party dress patterns I'd love to add to my wardrobe</h3>So many!<br />The festive season is an ideal opportunity to create a floor length stunner like the <a href="https://byhandlondon.com/products/alix-dress-pdf-sewing-pattern">By Hand London Alix dress</a>. I love how the sample shot they have uses fine fabrics for a really elegant look.<br />I've been toying with the idea for a <a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/8-belladone-dress-pattern.html">Deer and Doe Belladone dress</a> for a while, but can't seem to find the perfect fabric. I think the flared skirt and cut out back option is great for a party.<br />Speaking of flared skirts, both <a href="https://charmpatterns.bygertie.com/shop/lamour-dress/">Gertie's Charm patterns Lamour dress</a> and <a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/elsie-dress-sewing-pattern/">Sew Over It's Elsie dress </a>have this going on. They have different necklines, both taking inspiration from 50's styling, and are equally glamorous!<br />For a sleeker chic, <a href="https://www.simplesewpatterns.com/collections/whats-new/products/the-loretta-jewel-neck-dress">Simple Sew's Loretta Jewel Neck dress </a>has an interesting neckline feature, and I've been in love with <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-pattern-8292-misses-miss-petite-dresses/S8292.html">Simplicity 8292's</a> fluted sleeves since it was released earlier this year.<br /><br /><br /><h3>Patterns I have made that I would recommend&nbsp;</h3>I don't usually have this section, but I have made a few dresses that I will be wearing this season, and that I would make again for myself. All of these patterns have in depth reviews (click on the links below) and would all be in the recommended box.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GPUCQucIMj8/WiPdcaLh1hI/AAAAAAAATX4/bwl-1kLkA5oE9cll6QCiuQ_ic568akw5QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/flowers%2526%2Bplants.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="the #wardrobebuilder project - party dresses" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GPUCQucIMj8/WiPdcaLh1hI/AAAAAAAATX4/bwl-1kLkA5oE9cll6QCiuQ_ic568akw5QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/flowers%2526%2Bplants.png" title="" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/02/a-valentines-special-and.html">The comfortable yet elegant knit dress:</a>&nbsp;Kwik Sew K4111 (perfect for Christmas Day and expanding waistlines)<br /><a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2016/09/lace-dress.html">The lace dress:</a> New Look 6261<br /><a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/04/if-its-good-enough-for-kate.html">The little black dress:</a> The Day Dress by The Avid Seamstress<br /><a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/08/tilly-and-buttons-lilou-dress.html">The fit and flare dress:</a> Tilly and the Buttons Lilou, from Love at First Stitch - mine is quite summery in polka dots but a sateen would be great for Christmas parties.<br /><a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2016/09/betty-goes-to-wedding.html">The fifties dress</a>: Sew Over It Betty dress<br /><a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2016/09/betty-goes-to-wedding.html">The sheer yoke dress</a>: Colette Macaron<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dpRmfWHfywA/WiPgfkQnkPI/AAAAAAAATYE/DxoIynlmJX4CIVtHHDs3y3qcx-Zpn87GQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Bfabric.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="the #wardrobebuilder project - Party Dresses" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dpRmfWHfywA/WiPgfkQnkPI/AAAAAAAATYE/DxoIynlmJX4CIVtHHDs3y3qcx-Zpn87GQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Bfabric.png" title="" /></a><br /><h3>Fabrics I'm loving for this project</h3>Am I brave enough to wear <a href="http://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/carlotta-velvet-jersey-teal/">velvet</a>? It's definitely one of this season's trend fabrics and would be fun to try....a stretch velvet would be a little more forgiving too.<br /><a href="https://www.croftmill.co.uk/products/fabric-by-type/sequin-fabrics/pale-rose-gold-sequin-net-polyester-pale-pink-product.html">Sequins</a> please! I know that sequins can be time consuming to sew with, as you need to snip off all the ones in the seam allowance, but a simple shift dress or even just a bodice on a dress would be great fun in these.<br />Scuba fabrics are a lot more available now, and are also a great choice for party dresses - as a knit fabric they will be easier to sew with and will be comfortable to wear.<br />It's also an opportunity to really push the boat out and go to town on some of those beautiful high end fabrics like you might find at<a href="https://www.joelandsonfabrics.com/uk/"> Joel and Sons.</a>...<br /><br /><h3>Link Up</h3><div>Add your Party Dresses to this month's link up....if you add before December 17th they could find their way into the final #wardrobebuilder column in Sew Now magazine!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><!-- start InLinkz script --> <br /><div class="InLinkzContainer" id="753804"><a href="http://www.inlinkz.com/new/view.php?id=753804" rel="nofollow" title="click to view in an external page.">An InLinkz Link-up</a></div><script src="https://static.inlinkz.com/cs2.js" type="text/javascript"></script><!-- end InLinkz script -->Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-5062892987156791592017-11-21T07:00:00.000+00:002017-11-21T07:00:11.304+00:00Threadcount Suit Jacket - finally a matching set!<div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M2DwfJdHwDo/Wei_q6dlEiI/AAAAAAAASkQ/IcxWx0Ja3BAPHhAqxGAcoTowbpLS6SoewCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01357.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Threadcount Suit Jacket sewing pattern review" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M2DwfJdHwDo/Wei_q6dlEiI/AAAAAAAASkQ/IcxWx0Ja3BAPHhAqxGAcoTowbpLS6SoewCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01357.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Though I'm posting this for the #wardrobebuilder project, I have to admit that this was started over 18 months ago! I started it in Feb 2016, managed to mainly complete it this Easter, and finally hemmed it this month. It was intended to pair with the <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2016/11/lined-colour-blocked-megan-dress-from.html">Megan dress</a> that I made from Love at First Stitch as an outfit for work....and that is exactly what I have been doing with it!<a name='more'></a><h3>Fabric</h3><div>The fabric that I used for this was a grey suiting fabric that I bought from <a href="https://www.croftmill.co.uk/">Croft Mill.</a> I had used it in my Megan dress so it would make a matching suit. It's a good fabric to work with and contrary to the rest of the pictures in this post, doesn't crease that much! I used the same lining as the Megan dress too; it matches in colour and is a fairly standard lining.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s8xiJizgJ0E/WejEh45aIqI/AAAAAAAASkg/p_lrcT8qQLMYS0znOkwib2Th03dnOS4qgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/threadcount.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Threadcount Suit Jacket sewing pattern review" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s8xiJizgJ0E/WejEh45aIqI/AAAAAAAASkg/p_lrcT8qQLMYS0znOkwib2Th03dnOS4qgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/threadcount.jpg" title="" /></a></div><h3>Pattern and Instructions</h3><div>The pattern for this suit jacket came free with <a href="https://www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/dressmaking/patterns-for-women/item/487-threadcount-sewing-patterns-wardrobe-builder/">Love Sewing magazine</a>. The pattern is a complete suit set with trousers, skirt, top and dress to match the jacket. The suit set is softly structured with gathers at the tops of the top and dress. The jacket has a shawl collar, which I thought would make it easier to sew. My version has quite a few differences but essentially the construction is the same.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t9f7WFE2HZs/WejJEn9oEyI/AAAAAAAASk0/eYq_X8pkpAsPVqYGQk7ydu8-rFkYjGoUwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01354.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Threadcount Suit Jacket sewing pattern review" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t9f7WFE2HZs/WejJEn9oEyI/AAAAAAAASk0/eYq_X8pkpAsPVqYGQk7ydu8-rFkYjGoUwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01354.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The instructions inside are similar to those that you would find in most commercial patterns - concise with diagrams where needed. I found the construction of the neckline and collar a little trickier, and there are some dodgy bits that luckily are hidden under the collar. Speaking of dodgy bits, the reason this jacket took so long is because I had hemming issues. After I slipstitched the hem of the shell and lining I realised that somehow the lining was too short. It was pulling up the jacket and did not look right at all. After months of putting it off, I ended up putting the hem through the sewing machine. This means it's more visible than it's meant to be, but it is finished!</div><div><br /></div><h3>Alterations</h3><div>I traced the pattern pieces and shortened them considerably for my jacket. I find that at 5ft tall, cropped is better. I shortened the sleeves a little too but having worn the jacket now wish I had shortened them further. I think the alterations may have affected the overall drape of the jacket as you can see here.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B-heUAGz08U/WejI1glBNtI/AAAAAAAASks/SAgvKRQhU4YZYyH_5EcDKw_R10K3yJfFwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01333.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Threadcount Suit Jacket sewing pattern review" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B-heUAGz08U/WejI1glBNtI/AAAAAAAASks/SAgvKRQhU4YZYyH_5EcDKw_R10K3yJfFwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01333.jpg" title="" /></a></div><h3>Thoughts</h3><div>I think that next time I want a cropped jacket, I'll buy the pattern. As you can see, this wasn't hugely successful and is only just wearable....I certainly wouldn't want any other seamstresses to look at it closely. I can just about get away with it for work though. I'm glad I made it though because I do need a jacket to pair with the Megan dress and this matches colours perfectly. I would like to investigate the other patterns in the pack a little more in future.</div><div><br /></div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-85939434286829319302017-11-14T07:00:00.000+00:002017-11-14T07:00:03.855+00:00Sew Over It Alex shirt and Seamwork Astoria...again! Tried and True....<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9eA-udJ3hR4/WglZDaZ9plI/AAAAAAAATJU/dG5-6gZ_sSQh9SsgWlvXp6rMs_UgmBiOQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Seamstress.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Tried and true patterns" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9eA-udJ3hR4/WglZDaZ9plI/AAAAAAAATJU/dG5-6gZ_sSQh9SsgWlvXp6rMs_UgmBiOQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Seamstress.png" title="" /></a><br /><br />November's <a href="https://sewcialists.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/happy-sewcialiststnt-month/">#sewcialists theme</a> is all about Tried and True (TNT) patterns. I don't make second versions of a lot of my makes, partly because I'm trying to keep up with the #wardrobebuilder project, and partly because I have too many ideas in my make list! That said, I have found that there are a few patterns that have made themselves into the repeat list - two of which are brand new makes today. Often I alter the pattern a little from the previous make to suit a new purpose, or from lessons learned after wearing. Here are my top TNTs...<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><br /><i>*Each one of these TNTs is linked to the other times that I've made the pattern, where you can find a lot more detail about them!</i><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R87Ss77ZD7k/WOEG9krG14I/AAAAAAAANSY/alfaiAP4rHE5KtG2j69Z0dUjIC_13UdqgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/2017-04-02%2B03.02.18%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sew Over It Alex shirt " border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="898" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R87Ss77ZD7k/WOEG9krG14I/AAAAAAAANSY/alfaiAP4rHE5KtG2j69Z0dUjIC_13UdqgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/2017-04-02%2B03.02.18%2B1.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br /><h3>1. Sew Over It Alex shirt and shirt dress from the My Capsule Wardrobe; City Break eBook</h3>This was one of the patterns that sold this book to me. I loved the versions that Lisa had included and knew it would work for me.<br /><br />My first version was the <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/04/alex-shirt-from-sew-over-it-my-capsule.html">shirt (above)</a>, followed shortly by a <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/04/floral-chiffon-alex-shirt-dress-from.html">shirt dress </a>which is perfect for summer holidays!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i0xjHMzfmZg/Wgc4PkZrXvI/AAAAAAAATHc/kN0arXv_yqYU-9V8np_xQI4QkrPwqvNGQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/alex%2Bshirt%2Bdress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sew Over It Alex shirt dress" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i0xjHMzfmZg/Wgc4PkZrXvI/AAAAAAAATHc/kN0arXv_yqYU-9V8np_xQI4QkrPwqvNGQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/alex%2Bshirt%2Bdress.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br /><i><b>What I love about this pattern:</b></i><br /><ul><li>It's simple in its construction</li><li>The relaxed fit - few alterations needed</li><li>The fact it's a shirt and a dress!</li><li>How easy it is to wear</li><li>How many different fabrics you can use for it - my chiffon dress is one of my treasured makes because it was such a good way to use that fabric</li><li>Buttons! weirdly, I really enjoy finding the perfect buttons for each shirt</li></ul><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ZO5Uo3fsEk/Wgc70oCZR9I/AAAAAAAATH8/bgFFGEUtby4oFd4Y79-FmqnmcNzLSIIYwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sew Over It Alex shirt " border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ZO5Uo3fsEk/Wgc70oCZR9I/AAAAAAAATH8/bgFFGEUtby4oFd4Y79-FmqnmcNzLSIIYwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br /><h4>Introducing my third Alex shirt...the work shirt.</h4>Now that I have used sheer fabrics with this pattern, I knew it would be perfect for work (I prefer these fabrics because they don't crease). I paired it with another Sew Over It fabric that I got hold of in the sale for £6 per metre. I love feminine pop of colour that the roses bring, whilst the stripes look quite smart still. I used the size 8 that had worked well for my dress, shortened the sleeves in the same way and french seamed again.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YLU8ES5ysNo/Wgc7RjvqVoI/AAAAAAAATHw/ZmKK-2wwja8PVs3wCrDuyFvEwdbt5LjjACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sew Over It Alex shirt " border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YLU8ES5ysNo/Wgc7RjvqVoI/AAAAAAAATHw/ZmKK-2wwja8PVs3wCrDuyFvEwdbt5LjjACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-8.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br />Oddly though I had a problem that didn't occur with the dress - I couldn't get the buttonholes in! My machine has started to misbehave when it comes to buttonholes, and although I was using the same wash away stabiliser as my dress, they were either not triggering the third bar, or were getting eaten up on the final bar. I worked around it by using only two of the four steps and switching around, and when it came to the sleeve tabs decided to give up altogether. I ended up sewing the buttons directly through; it does mean that the sleeves will never come down, but I can live with that.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rMKNsustZSs/Wgc7EL_EUYI/AAAAAAAATHo/VmBpFwJLDmgO1u8rcBEg7jj-07dyzcgrACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sew Over It Alex shirt " border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rMKNsustZSs/Wgc7EL_EUYI/AAAAAAAATHo/VmBpFwJLDmgO1u8rcBEg7jj-07dyzcgrACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-13.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br /><br />I am especially proud of my stripe matching and placement throughout though!!!!<br /><br /><br /><h3>2. Seamwork Astoria&nbsp;</h3>My <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/01/seamwork-astoria-sweater.html">first version</a> was my first #wardrobebuilder make!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ykd7HLkEFXE/WIyipUyJkeI/AAAAAAAAMjs/6DbXkUslQHQZVf9HCHgxnRE-ppj8Uv6PwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/Seamwork%2BAstoria%2Bjumper%2Bpattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Seamwork Astoria" border="0" data-original-height="973" data-original-width="1295" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ykd7HLkEFXE/WIyipUyJkeI/AAAAAAAAMjs/6DbXkUslQHQZVf9HCHgxnRE-ppj8Uv6PwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/Seamwork%2BAstoria%2Bjumper%2Bpattern.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><b><i>What I love about this pattern:</i></b><br /><ul><li>You can make it from 1m of fabric</li><li>You can make it in 3 hours</li><li>The preppy look</li><li>It's not too clingy and a little more forgiving than some jersey tops</li><li>The wide bottom waistband</li></ul><br /><h4>Introducing my second Astoria - the double duty sweater</h4><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DbilQXEecEU/Wgc9hP-sTMI/AAAAAAAATIQ/6jVfTUvTgnc2cJOL1bCX5qErNsTXi5GMwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-7.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Seamwork Astoria" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DbilQXEecEU/Wgc9hP-sTMI/AAAAAAAATIQ/6jVfTUvTgnc2cJOL1bCX5qErNsTXi5GMwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-7.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />I bought 1m of this rose printed jersey at the Great British Sewing Bee Live from <a href="http://stitchfabrics.co.uk/">Stitch Fabrics </a>, with this pattern in mind. I wasn't sure if it would be for work or casual wear, but as it happens manages to do well for both! This time however I lengthened the bodice by 5 inches because although I loved how my first one looked, I don't wear it very often because it sits too high. I reprinted the pattern and used the size I wish I'd used last time, which turned out to be perfect. It's already seeing a lot of wear now the weather has turned colder here, and I love the striking design of the fabric.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m6a7O57r3N4/Wgc9dEdteCI/AAAAAAAATII/uwyxJ7h_MUILuyzvZwxnkkeXDLm5VE5mwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Seamwork Astoria" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m6a7O57r3N4/Wgc9dEdteCI/AAAAAAAATII/uwyxJ7h_MUILuyzvZwxnkkeXDLm5VE5mwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/petitepassions-3.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br /><br />So, these are my top 2 TNT patterns right now; I think that there are a couple more that might make it on to this list eventually - I just need to get around to making more of them!<br /><br />What are your top Tried and True patterns?<br /><br /><br />Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-55441618050010198402017-11-07T07:00:00.000+00:002017-11-07T07:00:16.625+00:00Camel coloured Burda 6736 Coat<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PaB2JZ6GsIk/Wei3ns_jEyI/AAAAAAAASjs/52tTCjDbs5Adw-mFCnmHohywbfjg2wdRACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01308.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Burda 6736 Coat review by the petite passions" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PaB2JZ6GsIk/Wei3ns_jEyI/AAAAAAAASjs/52tTCjDbs5Adw-mFCnmHohywbfjg2wdRACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01308.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />After looking around at lots of patterns for coats I finally settled on the Burda 6736. It has a simple shape that I felt wouldn't be too tricky for my first coat project and would look good with skinny jeans. It really was a simple coat to construct because it also doesn't require a complicated collar......and I loved working with wool for this coat.<br /><a name='more'></a><h3>&nbsp;Fabric</h3><br />I used a camel coloured melton wool from <a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product-category/fabric-shop-by-type/wool/">Sew Over It</a> that I had originally bought for a Lola coat. After buying the fabric I didn't think that the pattern was really going to suit me so switched to the Burda. The Lola uses lots of fabric so I had plenty for this project, and enough left over for another one! This one cost about £15 per metre, and I chose this colour based on the pins I have been accumulating on my Pinterest boards! It's the first time I have used wool and it was a more pleasant sewing experience than I was expecting. No overcasting or finishing of seams is required because wool doesn't fray, which speeds things up considerably! It's also quite a stable fabric so cuts and sews well. I used a heavier weight interfacing for the front panels on this project too....thank you to the lovely ladies at John Lewis who helped me out with finding the right one!<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0wykdPk6XCM/Wei3CsDVSpI/AAAAAAAASjY/JDk8j0GEZ1gxZZk7EZsFtep9smhsEJPcgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Burda 6736 Coat review by the petite passions" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0wykdPk6XCM/Wei3CsDVSpI/AAAAAAAASjY/JDk8j0GEZ1gxZZk7EZsFtep9smhsEJPcgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01316.jpg" title="" /></a><br />To give it a more professional finish opted to line my coat as well. I found a great Barbour lining fabric from <a href="https://www.croftmill.co.uk/products/linings-interfacings/dutch-tailors-linings/barbour-lining-brown-product.html">Croft Mill for £4.50</a> per metre. Yes....the lining that is used in Barbour jackets for £4.50. It's a darker brown than the wool and really sturdy even though it's light weight.<br /><br /><h3>Pattern and Instructions</h3>This is the first Burda pattern I've used. The back of the pattern envelope is a lot simpler than most of the other ones I've used and gives you fabric measurements but not finished garment measurements (these are on the pattern itself - kind of). I found it difficult to figure out the correct sizing due to the lack of clear information in the pack (more below!). The pattern comes on standard pattern paper with clear markings .<br /><br />The instructions come on a double sided page, in three languages. They are not lengthy and detailed, but then again it is not a difficult construction. They do not include lining or inseam pockets (see below). It was quite easy to make the coat according to the instructions so I would recommend it for anyone who wants a simple pattern for their first coat. I left off the buttons and buttonholes in order to see if I really needed them, and think they can stay left off. That also makes it a lot easier!<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KMl_V89l_Ws/Wei37H1W2bI/AAAAAAAASj0/eEpLD04vTKICWUM9BfFY87u58GaQ5y-3QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01315.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Burda 6736 Coat review by the petite passions" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KMl_V89l_Ws/Wei37H1W2bI/AAAAAAAASj0/eEpLD04vTKICWUM9BfFY87u58GaQ5y-3QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01315.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><h3>Alterations</h3>Lots<br /><br />I cut a size 12/38. The Burda size chart isn't on the envelope, it's online. According to this a size 12 was well within my measurements, but it is also written as a EUR size 38 which is a UK size 12 (even though the packet says US size 12). This coat was definitely too big on me. I took 1.5cm out of the shoulders at the armhole and at the top of the sleeves, and reduced the side seams by another 1.5cm. If I made it again I'm not sure I would I also chopped 6 inches off the bottom of the coat - it was very long! I know I made the longer version but don't think it was meant to be that long!<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-90dx9MwSDWA/Wei4Nq08uMI/AAAAAAAASkA/VMwkVwbKiG0hzPhhMwbMAH6FtdNpycGuQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01313.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Burda 6736 Coat review by the petite passions" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-90dx9MwSDWA/Wei4Nq08uMI/AAAAAAAASkA/VMwkVwbKiG0hzPhhMwbMAH6FtdNpycGuQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01313.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />To line to coat I used the pattern pieces for the sleeves, the back and the front (minus the facing panels). I attached it to the coat at the neckline of the collar and the front facings. It is slipstitched to the bottom hem and sleeve hems.<br /><br />I also changed the pockets from the pattern. Instead of patterns on the front, I used the in seam pockets from the macaron pattern, and inserted these into the side seams of the coat as I was making the wool layer.<br /><br /><h3>Thoughts</h3>Would I make this pattern again? Probably not. It's quite a big coat and although I can wear it, I prefer a more tailored look.<br />Would I recommend this pattern? Yes, it's quite good for a beginner to coats.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fhMKhKC-J90/Wei3Ox3J6uI/AAAAAAAASjg/A5WlxbgmgwYraZaLYxACjQEUixwWWG9HwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Burda 6736 Coat review by the petite passions" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fhMKhKC-J90/Wei3Ox3J6uI/AAAAAAAASjg/A5WlxbgmgwYraZaLYxACjQEUixwWWG9HwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/DSC01319.jpg" title="" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">really not sure about this!</td></tr></tbody></table>What I like most about the pattern is how easy it is to put together. The fabric itself is lovely...the wool does its job in keeping you warm and I love the Barbour lining!<br />What I don't like about the pattern is the balance of it - the width of the shoulders and weight of the wool don't suit a short person like me. It needs to be worn with a scarf to look good.<br /><br />Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-58920115784776365602017-11-01T07:00:00.000+00:002017-11-01T07:00:00.767+00:00the #wardrobebuilder project - Coats and Jackets<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J194E-jvY1Q/WeiOgSaOOUI/AAAAAAAASi8/B057FOnALw4fwyNR62mwIDWOBcfJq5awQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Boct%2B%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="the #wardrobebuilder project - Coats and Jackets" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J194E-jvY1Q/WeiOgSaOOUI/AAAAAAAASi8/B057FOnALw4fwyNR62mwIDWOBcfJq5awQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Boct%2B%25281%2529.png" title="" /></a><br /><br />This one is definitely more challenging than some of the other #wardrobebuilder themes, but I'm looking forward to getting stuck into a larger project. There are some amazing coat and jacket patterns out there just itching to add themselves to our handmade wardrobes! I have a feeling that taking on a coat project has the potential to feel like going down the rabbit hole in terms of fabrics, notions and new techniques....let's see!<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><h3>Coat patterns I'd love to add to my wardrobe</h3><br />I love the military look of the <a href="https://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/en/pdf-sewing-patterns/17-quart-coat.html">Pauline Alice Quart Coat.</a> It has a smart silhouette, and a few features like pleats and epaulettes that will add interest to the make.<br />For a classic Chanel style cropped jacket, there's a couple of patterns I think could fit the bill - the <a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/coco-jacket-sewing-pattern/">Sew Over It Coco</a> has recently been released on pdf, and Seamwork also have released <a href="https://www.seamwork.com/catalog/lilliana">the Liliana</a> which subscribers can spend their credits on.<br />I love Closet Case patterns, and their <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/kelly-anorak-jacket-pattern">Kelly Anorak</a> really is a project to get stuck into. There's a tutorial on the blog and some fabric suppliers also sell hardware kits for all the notions that you need. I love<a href="https://redwsews.wordpress.com/2017/09/27/the-elephant-proof-coat/"> Red W Sews' </a>version complete with raincloud lining!<br />The <a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/40-luzerne-trench-coat-pattern.html">Deer and Doe Luzerne trench</a> has been at the top of my covet list for some time. A classic trench is just the thing for autumn and spring.<br />The <a href="https://www.sewessential.co.uk/misses-jackets-and-coats-burda-sewing-pattern-6736">Burda 6736</a> looks like a simpler pattern for a first coat undertaking! It isn't fitted and I think could be left without fastenings if you really wanted.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mQPrdqf-k8o/WeiRp_XWnKI/AAAAAAAASjI/KVoVCixed4UzrWNXsjUXcKOb6BEDz8uOwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Bfabric%2B%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="the #wardrobebuilder project - Coats and Jackets" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mQPrdqf-k8o/WeiRp_XWnKI/AAAAAAAASjI/KVoVCixed4UzrWNXsjUXcKOb6BEDz8uOwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/%2523wardrobebuilder%2Bfabric%2B%25281%2529.png" title="" /></a><br /><h3></h3><h3>Fabrics I'm loving for this project</h3><br />Unfortunately this isn't going to be a cheap project. Coats and Jackets need a fair amount of fabric, and outerwear fabrics are a little more expensive.<br /><br />Boiled wool - this feels like a good option for a coat. It's warm and has an added bonus of not fraying which saves time on finishing seams.<br />Boucle wool - it really does feel like the only option if I'm going to make a Chanel style cropped jacket! <a href="https://www.fabworks.co.uk/">(Fabworks </a>are definitely worth a look for this)<br />Linings - I really feel that choosing lining fabric is a secret perk of sewing your own clothes. There are some beautiful patterns around and really you can use any lightweight fabric you like.<br /><br />Add your makes to the link up!<br /><br />Please share any coats or jackets you have made to inspire the rest of us....if you have written a tutorial or tips that will be helpful too. They may also appear in Sew Now Magazine next month!<br /><br /><br /><!-- start InLinkz script --> <br /><div class="InLinkzContainer" id="744381"><a href="http://www.inlinkz.com/new/view.php?id=744381" rel="nofollow" title="click to view in an external page.">An InLinkz Link-up</a></div><script src="https://static.inlinkz.com/cs2.js" type="text/javascript"></script><!-- end InLinkz script -->Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-83902677073078915252017-10-24T07:30:00.000+01:002017-10-24T07:30:10.320+01:00Beginner's baby quilt<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DI_BkabN4yE/WdjzInQrhTI/AAAAAAAASX8/IyWWN-7BplIHqiISRPvmAaLzUd_VyDgRQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/baby%2Bquilt%2B%25282%2529.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Beginner's baby quilt" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DI_BkabN4yE/WdjzInQrhTI/AAAAAAAASX8/IyWWN-7BplIHqiISRPvmAaLzUd_VyDgRQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/baby%2Bquilt%2B%25282%2529.png" title="" /></a><br /><br />A slight deviation from my usual dressmaking focused sewing this week! Our boy heavy family has been eagerly anticipating the arrival of a new baby girl, and as a gift from her loving auntie, I decided to attempt to make her a quilt. I have never made a quilt before, so used all my Internet research skills to figure out how to put my sewing skills to a new use. (It didn't turn out too bad at all!)<br /><div><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><h3>Why?</h3></div><div>I had recently watched the<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/thelittletailoress"> Little Tailoress' podcast,</a> in which she shows a number of projects. In this episode however, I was really drawn to the quilt she was making. I had never considered quilting as something I could do with my machine (or to entirely honest, would want to). But, the way she talked made me think a bit more about quilting. Then I started looking on Pinterest for quilt ideas and realised that a baby quilt would be an ideal project. I could try my hand at quilting on something that wasn't too large, and it would be an ideal gift too. I was really amazed at how stylish quilts could be and how you could really get creative as you build a skills set.<br /><br /></div><a data-pin-board-width="800" data-pin-do="embedBoard" data-pin-scale-height="250" data-pin-scale-width="115" href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/apetitepassion/quilting/"></a> <br /><h3><br />How to make a baby quilt as a beginner</h3>Firstly I decided to research a little more into how to make a quilt....and discovered it was easier than I thought. One the one hand it is incredibly simple to sew together small pieces of fabric into a desirable pattern, back it and bind it. One the other hand, you need a keen eye for details and there is a bit of maths involved! (One of the pins in the board above has a handy guide for figuring out how much fabric you need so if you are starting out and want to know how much to buy, look there.)<br /><br />There are a lot of tutorials online, and some classes on Craftsy too. I decided that the <a href="https://www.diaryofaquilter.com/beginning-quilting-series">Beginning Quilting series</a> from Diary of a Quilter had everything I needed, and the pattern she used was what I was looking for for my first project....simple squares! She also has tips for more advanced quilters so I thought she would be good to return to if this project goes well. I did deviate slightly from the requirements she outlines, but it's essentially the same quilt as the tutorial.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1zsgst6wdg8/WdjvnhaLaKI/AAAAAAAASXc/PyHvfaaEzIoe23lZn0DVt4709nkVaTbaQCLcBGAs/s1600/quilt%2Bfull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Beginner's baby quilt" border="0" data-original-height="980" data-original-width="1600" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1zsgst6wdg8/WdjvnhaLaKI/AAAAAAAASXc/PyHvfaaEzIoe23lZn0DVt4709nkVaTbaQCLcBGAs/s1600/quilt%2Bfull.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>In a nutshell, you sew together fabric into the pattern you like, then sandwich some wadding or batting in between this and a bottom layer. You sew all three layers together at regular intervals and then bind the edges with bias strips. If you are getting really fancy you can use a free motion foot to sew interesting patterns as you fix all the layers together. I didn't go this far so I used parallel, perpendicular and diagonal lines that were sewn over the seam lines from joining my top pattern fabrics together (not a great fan of stitching in the ditch, but this is what I tried to do!). It's the first piecing together stage and this stitching in the ditch that makes it really important to cut pieces accurately in the first place. You end up with wonky lines otherwise.<br /><br />(Yes, there are some dodgy bits on mine because I hadn't realised this when I was cutting)<br /><br /><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ndvt_6T_iyg/WdjuT4VSgrI/AAAAAAAASXE/CYzFRA7gEr8LlpvVqbZm9Y8-vN9jQ_THgCLcBGAs/s1600/quilt%2Bpost.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Beginner's baby quilt" border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1600" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ndvt_6T_iyg/WdjuT4VSgrI/AAAAAAAASXE/CYzFRA7gEr8LlpvVqbZm9Y8-vN9jQ_THgCLcBGAs/s1600/quilt%2Bpost.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><h3>Supplies</h3><div>Although I have enough sewing kit to keep me in dressmaking, I did have to investigate and purchase extra supplies for this project. I already had a rotary cutter, ruler and self-healing mat, which was essential for cutting accurate (ish) squares. That's about it though...</div><div><br /></div><div>Additional kit that I needed:</div><b>Quilting foot</b> (also known as a walking foot or even feed foot). This is essential for feeding the multiple layers of fabric through the machine without bunching it all up. The cheapest supplier of the one that fit my machine was John Lewis, by over £5. I figured this was an acceptable expense because you can use this foot to help with slippery and sheer fabrics too (which I do use a lot).<br /><b>Quilting needles.</b> The general advice is to have the right needle for any project, so I supposed that these would be a good idea<br /><b>Basting spray. </b>After looking at a few tutorials it appeared that keeping all the layers together when sewing could be problematic. I'd either need curved safety pins or wash out spray. The difference in price was negligible so I picked the spray - it just looks simpler! I found this one from the <a href="https://www.thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk/505-basting-spray-250ml">Village Haberdashery</a>&nbsp;for a reasonable price. When I was using it I was really careful to make sure I didn't have any wrinkles (so basically flat on the kitchen floor!) and it did hold everything together well enough to get it all sewn together.<br /><br />So far we are at the best part of £50. These can all be reused but there is a definite investment in taking up a new hobby!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SNDzB27i-48/WdjvMIDEmLI/AAAAAAAASXY/HIoMm3OcQtISbZ2hoRAQKmgN1km_kvuVgCLcBGAs/s1600/quilt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Beginner's baby quilt" border="0" data-original-height="1015" data-original-width="1600" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SNDzB27i-48/WdjvMIDEmLI/AAAAAAAASXY/HIoMm3OcQtISbZ2hoRAQKmgN1km_kvuVgCLcBGAs/s1600/quilt.jpg" title="" /></a></div><h4><br />Over to fabric...</h4>Now, usually I buy fabric by the metre, but for quilting I could finally enter the world of fat quarters that I see so much of online. There are so many bundles and collections that you really can make anything. I was thinking along the lines of a pink and grey theme for this quilt....and unicorns. As soon as I decided that I was making a quilt for a baby girl, I knew it had to be unicorns! The Yorkshire Sewist used unicorns for her pyjamas in August's #wardrobebuilder project and I have been obsessed with finding a way to use them since!<br /><br /><a href="http://www.higgsandhiggs.com/">Higgs and Higgs</a>&nbsp;are super helpful for quilting because they organise their fabric into themed collections...there is one all about unicorns and even a handy bundle of themed fabrics. No brainer!&nbsp;I chose a <a href="http://www.higgsandhiggs.com/fq-bundlemagical-unicorns-x-4.html">4 pack</a>&nbsp;with two different unicorn coloured fabrics. I also needed half a metre of another fabric for borders and 1 metre of another print for the back and edges of the quilt. The fabric I picked for the borders ended up as one of the fat quarters (you don't necessarily get exactly what is in the picture) and this worked really well to complement the pattern. It was also a great choice because it has little silver stars in it that twinkle in the sunlight. Unicorns and twinkly stars...how cute!<br /><br /><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gGLtHYsUP-I/Wdjy9cL9QbI/AAAAAAAASX0/9EsymaQpNaIgcYCuWDWB6VQ9nkqo1YZpgCLcBGAs/s1600/quilt%2Bheader.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Beginner's baby quilt" border="0" data-original-height="1055" data-original-width="1600" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gGLtHYsUP-I/Wdjy9cL9QbI/AAAAAAAASX0/9EsymaQpNaIgcYCuWDWB6VQ9nkqo1YZpgCLcBGAs/s1600/quilt%2Bheader.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br />And finally you need something in between all this fabric! The Beginning quilting series explained the different types of wadding really clearly, and I sourced mine from the Village Haberdashery. The quilt I made was a little smaller than the wadding I bought but I think my maths was out...I had 4 left over squares and should have had exactly enough so had to leave out a row.<br /><br /><h3>Thoughts on sewing my first quilt</h3><div><ul><li>I definitely enjoyed fabric hunting, but not sourcing any other materials.</li><li>Squares are a good starting point. They looked better than I thought they would too.</li><li>There was something therapeutic about the repetitive straight - line sewing that was needed to sew all the squares together and to sew all the layers together. I thought it would be boring, but it wasn't.</li><li>A baby quilt is a good sized project - it's not too large to fit under the sewing machine for a start!</li><li>I need to be more accurate with cutting out precise sized squares. I can see where they don't join up perfectly, but I don't know if anyone else would notice. I am proud that I mitred the corners though!</li><li>There's a lot you can do. I have fallen in love with some fat quarter collections and other quilt patterns that are a little more complicated....but I reckon they are a lot more difficult than I'm ready for. I also think that I would struggle with my sewing machine for some of these, which is a shame.</li><li>Will everyone be getting a quilt for Christmas?</li></ul><div>Have you made quilts? How have you found it and do you have any tips?<br /><br /></div></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zFNICCvIUGM/Wdju8lawd5I/AAAAAAAASXU/5_A1nDCX6wk4qvwETglAk-0WooWihDv6QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/baby%2Bquilt.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Beginner's baby quilt" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zFNICCvIUGM/Wdju8lawd5I/AAAAAAAASXU/5_A1nDCX6wk4qvwETglAk-0WooWihDv6QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/baby%2Bquilt.png" title="" /></a><br /><br /></div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-76418469987586551992017-10-17T07:00:00.000+01:002017-10-17T07:00:25.302+01:00An Interview on Vintage Dressmaking with The Crafty Pinup<div>As it's Vintage month on the #wardrobebuilder project, I could think of no more appropriate interview on vintage dressmaking than one with Abi aka <a href="http://www.thecraftypinup.co.uk/">The Crafty Pinup.</a> She is Simplicity's Vintage Ambassador and the designer behind<a href="https://myretrocloset.com/"> 'My Retro Closet'</a>. I particularly love her You Tube channel, and when I asked who your favourite sewing bloggers and vloggers were, a lot of you were fans too. To help us out with our #wardrobebuilder makes this month, she took the time to tell us a bit about her thoughts on 'sewing vintage'....</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-36WA_GdB4bs/WeMZacZrjWI/AAAAAAAASfw/0hqlkzzyDTIluqHKk-InUvsaK-g9DxRewCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/craft%2Bpinup.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Vintage Dressmaking with The Crafty Pinup" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-36WA_GdB4bs/WeMZacZrjWI/AAAAAAAASfw/0hqlkzzyDTIluqHKk-InUvsaK-g9DxRewCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/craft%2Bpinup.png" title="" /></a></div><a name='more'></a><h4></h4><h4>1. You only took up dressmaking quite recently &amp; have clearly defined your style quickly. Was it a conscious decision to focus on vintage inspired creations at the time or did this evolve as you were adding to your handmade wardrobe? </h4><i>I've always grown up around dressmaking and studied lingerie design at university, so sewing has always been a part of my life in some way. But since leaving university and starting a business, I was never sewing anything for myself and craved some selfish makes! Vintage style again has always been of interest to me, so I was instantly drawn to vintage reproduction patterns so I could sew my own retro dresses. It allowed to me express a little extra creativity instead of sewing garments I could find in high-street stores.&nbsp;</i><br /><div><i><br /></i><h4></h4><h4>2. As Simplicity's Vintage Ambassador you showcase a variety of patterns from different eras. Which is your favourite decade for style and why?</h4><i>Whilst I've enjoyed sewing a range of eras for my Stitch by Stitch with Simplicity series, I love the 1950s and 1960s the most. It's hard for me to choose between those! I love the 1950s for full skirted summer dresses and you can't help but feel glamorous in those silhouettes. The 1960s lends itself perfectly to comfy and cosy dressing with oversized coats and simple A line dresses. I flit between the two with the changing seasons!</i><br /><div><i><br /></i><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KxAO6YNGwv8/WeMaHMPlAPI/AAAAAAAASf8/LMvlqPpDKlQHttE8W1CW4dh8G_qK8E33ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Sew%2BOver%2BIt%2BElsie%2BDress%2BCrafty%2BPinup.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Vintage Dressmaking with The Crafty Pinup; Elsie dress" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KxAO6YNGwv8/WeMaHMPlAPI/AAAAAAAASf8/LMvlqPpDKlQHttE8W1CW4dh8G_qK8E33ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Sew%2BOver%2BIt%2BElsie%2BDress%2BCrafty%2BPinup.png" title="" /></a><br /><br /><h4>3. When you are looking for sewing patterns are you looking for originals, or modern patterns that feature vintage styling elements? </h4><i>I would love to say I have a collection of original vintage sewing patterns, but sadly I don't. I think I'm just too lazy to hunt them down. But luckily I think there's an amazing selection of retro patterns out there, along with an increasing range of reproduction and reprinted vintage patterns. I'm also drawn to indie pattern designers that take a little inspiration from past eras, like Tilly and the Buttons 60s style 'Coco' pattern and Sew Over It's 50s style 'Elsie' dress.</i><br /><br /><h4>4. What advice would you give to anyone looking to add some vintage styling to their handmade wardrobe? (ie tips for sewing your first vintage make) </h4><i>If you're a lover of 1950s style like me, a dress pattern with a fitted bodice and full skirt will give instant pinup vibes. This style also lends itself perfectly to some great simple patterns that are on the market for any beginners out there. I would recommend <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2017/03/b6453-sew-along-supplies-and-prep.html">Gertie's Butterick B6453</a> dress pattern if you want to dip your toe into some handmade retro style. She also provides lots of <a href="https://blog.bygertie.com/">step by step sew alongs</a> for her patterns, which are a great help.&nbsp;</i><br /><div><i><br /></i><a href="http://www.thecraftypinup.co.uk/2017/06/behind-seams-butterick-b6453-fitted.html"><img alt="Vintage Dressmaking with The Crafty Pinup; behind the seams video" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ft_z9qPVM3A/WeMX9WW0IqI/AAAAAAAASfk/ir-WxENvOFUfSfBNaRpgCigisi-jYJoSACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/gerties%2Bbutterick.png" title="" /></a><br /><br /><h4>5. Your creations use vintage patterns yet blend well with high street fashions; they are stylish rather than 'costume'. How do you achieve this? </h4><i>I'm glad you agree! My personal style is casual and working from home I need a wardrobe that suits my lifestyle. Mixing vintage with current trends allows me to enjoy the retro style I love but in a modern, comfortable way. Like vintage blouses with skinny jeans, or a 1950s dress with a leather biker jacket. I don't like being tied down to one style and as I said before, my style changes with the seasons!</i>&nbsp;</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1qo6-JJlqTI/WeMbCf6dq3I/AAAAAAAASgI/J-Wv4rWKcr4KxB3LIeNEWu025ozttKzvgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Butterick%2B6285%2Bcrafty%2Bpinup.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Vintage Dressmaking with The Crafty Pinup; Gertie's wrap top" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1qo6-JJlqTI/WeMbCf6dq3I/AAAAAAAASgI/J-Wv4rWKcr4KxB3LIeNEWu025ozttKzvgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Butterick%2B6285%2Bcrafty%2Bpinup.png" title="" /></a></div><h4></h4><h4>6. What is it about sewing with vintage patterns that you enjoy? </h4><i>For me, like I mentioned before, I think I'm just too lazy to search for the real thing! I love the process of designing the garment and thinking of the fabric and pattern combinations. I also love being able to take a vintage pattern and apply current fabric trends and prints to create a garment perfect for me, mixing the best of both worlds. </i><br /><br /><h4>7. Possibly the hardest one now... Your favourite handmade vintage make! </h4><i>This one is actually surprisingly easy for me, but that's only because it was my last vintage make and I am currently obsessed with it! You may have see my social media is all green right now, because I am loving my vintage 1960s coat. Made with Simplicity's 1197 reproduction pattern. I created my vintage dream coat and my Instagram is going to be emerald green for the foreseeable future! </i><br /><div><i><br /></i></div><div><i><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sx0me_s3BDw/WeMbSvPNQpI/AAAAAAAASgY/R-3rsOE1u3IN6JJsqYOhg7UkfLvhEdHugCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Simplicity%2B1197%2Bcrafty%2Bpinup.png" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Vintage Dressmaking with The Crafty Pinup; 1960s coat" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sx0me_s3BDw/WeMbSvPNQpI/AAAAAAAASgY/R-3rsOE1u3IN6JJsqYOhg7UkfLvhEdHugCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Simplicity%2B1197%2Bcrafty%2Bpinup.png" title="" /></a></i></div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Thank you Abi! I love the leopard print lining peeking through on this emerald green coat and it's great to hear your advice on where to start with incorporating vintage styling into a handmade wardrobe.</div><div><br /></div><div>Readers - if you haven't yet subscribed to Abi's <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHvlUWsmiG6U_PuUuEELcBg">YouTube Channel</a> I thoroughly recommend you do - there's pattern reviews, tutorials and all sorts of sewing treats on there to follow along with. It's really useful in hearing what patterns are like to make and to see how they come together. Thank you as well to everyone who recommended a sewing blogger or vlogger to follow - I added a few more great dressmakers to my follow list!</div><div>So my question now is; who or what is your vintage inspiration? Do you have a favourite era or styles like Abi? Are you also a Crafty Pinup fan?</div>Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264734906127649018.post-56572954551760012782017-10-10T07:00:00.000+01:002017-10-10T07:00:35.783+01:00Amelie Tuck Blouse by Til The Sun Goes Down<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ysulkr8p_sM/WdjWNZ88ZLI/AAAAAAAASVU/Vnx86XUuc5EqjRKyfnB-wOohU_uMHumoQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Amelie%2Bblouse%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Amelie Tuck Blouse by Til The Sun Goes Down" border="0" data-original-height="1041" data-original-width="1600" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ysulkr8p_sM/WdjWNZ88ZLI/AAAAAAAASVU/Vnx86XUuc5EqjRKyfnB-wOohU_uMHumoQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Amelie%2Bblouse%2B2.jpg" title="Amelie Tuck Blouse by Til The Sun Goes Down" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>Til The Sun Goes Down have a huge range of vintage fabrics and patterns in their online store, and they are offering this pairing to one lucky winner. Some are original pieces and others are vintage inspired modern productions....they are all fabulous! Seeing as October is Vintage month on the #wardrobebuilder project, they kindly let me find out what their patterns and fabrics were like for myself with the Amelie Tuck Blouse. This was the perfect project for my #wardrobebuilder garment. It's easy to head straight for a dress when thinking of vintage, but this blouse can work with so many other pieces and has a very feminine style because of its 1930's inspiration.<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lZG073A7Ic0/WdjWhyQHJpI/AAAAAAAASVw/J91iwRJgMgUaxI6_zlMSiJ0Xzgj-xkVqgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Amelie%2Bblouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Amelie Tuck Blouse by Til The Sun Goes Down" border="0" data-original-height="1161" data-original-width="1600" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lZG073A7Ic0/WdjWhyQHJpI/AAAAAAAASVw/J91iwRJgMgUaxI6_zlMSiJ0Xzgj-xkVqgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Amelie%2Bblouse.jpg" title="" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><h3><br /></h3><h3>Fabric</h3><br />The fabric that I used was a <a href="https://www.tilthesungoesdown.com/product/Sprigs">cotton silk voile&nbsp;</a>called Sprigs, and costs £18 per metre. It's one of the retro inspired prints that Tile The Sun Goes Down provide and it comes in a few different colourways. The one I used is darker for Autumn and Winter wear, but there are also some options in blue and pink which have a real Spring feel to them. The fabric itself is incredibly soft and comfortable to wear. I used my finest pins and a sharp needle with this fabric because it is quite delicate but the cotton mix helps to make it a little easier to sew with. This weight of fabric works particularly well with the blouse because of all the gentle tucks and gathers that create a delicate, flowing look.<br /><br /><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ELmTjTHmMxM/WdjWmhpMyRI/AAAAAAAASVw/cyyCBE6SoxobhDUw9dmUQAlZCY7Ps5j1ACEwYBhgL/s1600/amelie%2Bback%2B%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Amelie Tuck Blouse by Til The Sun Goes Down back view" border="0" data-original-height="1097" data-original-width="1600" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ELmTjTHmMxM/WdjWmhpMyRI/AAAAAAAASVw/cyyCBE6SoxobhDUw9dmUQAlZCY7Ps5j1ACEwYBhgL/s1600/amelie%2Bback%2B%25282%2529.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><br /><h3><br /></h3><h3><br /></h3><h3>Pattern and Instructions</h3>This is an original pattern by Til The Sun Goes Down, inspired by 1930's styling. It features waist tucks and a shoulder yoke which the bodices gather into. These create the elegant shaping which you can then vary with different sleeve and collar options. The collar can be a standard single point, or a fancy double point; the sleeves can either be gently fluted or you can go for completely sleeveless. I chose sleeves and a single point collar. I love the idea of the double point collar, but I'm not really very adventurous in my wardrobe choices.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NnL3LOoUWGY/WdjY0FsvWBI/AAAAAAAASWY/HSTur9DQgxUIMoioCfxgXv3aAET_t5mWACLcBGAs/s1600/amelie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Amelie Tuck Blouse by Til The Sun Goes Down, instructions" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NnL3LOoUWGY/WdjY0FsvWBI/AAAAAAAASWY/HSTur9DQgxUIMoioCfxgXv3aAET_t5mWACLcBGAs/s1600/amelie.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br />In the pattern pack you get an instruction booklet and the pattern printed on brown paper that is sturdier than normal pattern paper. The version I made only needs 5 pattern pieces, but it is recommended that you cut them out of a single layer of fabric, rather than on the fold so this takes a little longer. One thing that you do need to remember is to cut some bias strips for the collar - this isn't in the layplans so read the instructions really carefully beforehand if you want to make sure you have enough to use the same fabric for these (see step 7). The pattern pieces themselves have enough markings to guide and are clear. It does take a while to mark all the tuck points for the front and back, but they are then evenly spaced when you make it.<br /><br />&nbsp;The instructions are clear and have some diagrams to assist too (which I really needed to understand the pleated sleeves). They are easier to follow than commercial pattern instructions and some explanations with them so you can understand why you are doing what you are doing.<br /><br /><br /><h3>Alterations</h3>I didn't really alter the pattern at all. I cut a size 10 based on my measurements (also my UK high street size) and it fits perfectly. This is not always the case for me so if you tend to get on well with commercial sizing do have a look at the finished pattern measurements before you cut. I like the length of the blouse and the sleeves so TTSGD sizing is a winner for me! The only alteration I made was to use fewer buttons than the 11 that are recommended. I identified the bust point and waist point, then marked buttons at equal intervals between these. I really love these buttons that I found in my local craft store because they pick out the warm tones of the blouse. You can pick up vintage buttons on the TTSGD website too though if you are really trying to embrace the vintage styling.<br /><br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uihjfI3hKg4/WdjW3qJHZgI/AAAAAAAASVw/YSSAft2k1VkUWRAI0vlMffGm-AWoXZfxgCEwYBhgL/s1600/amelie%2Bblouse%2Bbuttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Amelie Tuck Blouse by Til The Sun Goes Down front view" border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uihjfI3hKg4/WdjW3qJHZgI/AAAAAAAASVw/YSSAft2k1VkUWRAI0vlMffGm-AWoXZfxgCEwYBhgL/s1600/amelie%2Bblouse%2Bbuttons.jpg" title="" /></a><br /><h3><br /></h3><h3><br /></h3><h3>Conclusion</h3>This is a really pretty blouse that you could wear for work or out for lunch. I like the feminine details like the gathers and the tucks at the waistline. They help to create a flattering silhouette that I usually need to go and grab a belt for, and usually only attain in dresses. Making the blouse in the Sprigs fabric also helps give it a floaty air, with an added bonus of comfort because the fabric is so soft.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c66AVoTJh6s/WdjW1i7CH9I/AAAAAAAASVw/vaneeDXRv-g_9yxXIWUC6R-Az46N-Jj8gCEwYBhgL/s1600/amelie%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1147" data-original-width="1600" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c66AVoTJh6s/WdjW1i7CH9I/AAAAAAAASVw/vaneeDXRv-g_9yxXIWUC6R-Az46N-Jj8gCEwYBhgL/s1600/amelie%2Bback.jpg" /></a></div><br /><br /><b>Would I make this pattern again</b>? Yes. I'd like to try it in a georgette fabric.<br /><b>Would I recommend this pattern?</b> Yes. You do need to use French seams, gathers and tucks to make it, so it's not necessarily for beginners. That said, these elements aren't very complicated, so as long as you are able to look up these techniques it shouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't say it's any more difficult than the <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2016/02/mimi-blouse-from-tilly-and-buttons.html">Mimi blouse</a>.<br /><br />I was lucky enough to be sent the pattern and fabric so you could all see what it's like made up. This is what you will be sent if you win this month's giveaway so don't miss out (<a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/10/the-wardrobeuilder-project-vintage-plus.html">details here</a>). It's also my make for this month's link up. Have you used any other 'Now and Then' patterns? Tell us what you think, or even better, <a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/2017/10/the-wardrobeuilder-project-vintage-plus.html">add what you made to the link up here.</a><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HZK93nO8WdE/WdjWx8gs0sI/AAAAAAAASVw/da944h7sPmwVPOdKE6hyxNot8Bl6tjvogCEwYBhgL/s1600/amelie%2Bblouse%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Amelie Tuck Blouse by Til The Sun Goes Down pattern review" border="0" data-original-height="1225" data-original-width="1600" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HZK93nO8WdE/WdjWx8gs0sI/AAAAAAAASVw/da944h7sPmwVPOdKE6hyxNot8Bl6tjvogCEwYBhgL/s1600/amelie%2Bblouse%2B3.jpg" title="" /></a></div><br /><br />Laura Victoriahttps://plus.google.com/102119120947768573414noreply@blogger.com0