Batch 19

A straight split this week between blends and malts, with age statements ranging from 18 to 48 years, a couple of NAS whiskies and new expressions from Scapa and Kininvie. As ever, chief engineer Dave Broom gives his verdict.

Chivas Regal 18 Years Old Ultimate Cask Collection

Thick and sightly closed to start, but as it opens (slowly) you sense good mature elements and a complex mix of squished red and black fruits, chocolate ganache, caramelised nut, a light bready note, then rich toffee, ripe red apple and Turkish Delight. Water makes the toffee note more prominent, along with chocolate.

Palate

Good depth, with concentrated, rich fruits. Gentle, crème brûlée-like elements sitting on top of a core of damson and sweet spices. Layered and balanced.

Finish

Liquorice comes through on the end along with a light, earthy Jerusalem artichoke-like flavour.

Conclusion

Finished in first-fill American oak, at higher strength and with no chill filtering this is a bigger, sweeter, more layered expression of what is already a classy blend.

Right place, right time

An old gardener’s shed. He always had a packet of Werther’s Originals in his pocket.

Kininvie 23 Years Old, Batch 3

Lovely, and I mean really lovely, floral lift that’s like walking past a florist’s shop. There’s a hint of drying grass, lemon bon-bons. Water enhances this rather charming air and also brings out Pastéis de Nata (Portuguese custard tarts). Things becomes slightly more green with water (grassy, flower stems, fresh herbs) and then creamy.

Palate

As the nose indicates, this is really clean, but there’s sufficient substance on the palate. The flowers have now moved into the sweet, heavy flavours of chamomile with the perfume and cutting acidity of elderflower. Balanced.

Finish

Clean and soft.

Conclusion

At last, Kininvie appears and it’s balanced, subtle and has considerable finesse.

Kininvie 25 Years Old 'The First Drops'

Richer than the 23-year-old, with more cask influence from the off. Caramelised fruits, the dark ooze from a plum-and-apple crumble, then Bourbon-like cherry. With water, it becomes more cappuccino-like, the fruits become riper and more melon-like, along with a glucose-like sweetness – oh, and more oak.

Palate

A sweet start, then some fruits emerge, now with coriander seed and scented pepper spiciness. The acidity helps to reduce some of the oaky grip, but this is still cask-driven.

Finish

Clean, oaky.

Conclusion

Not one – but two! Though coming from a pretty active ex-Bourbon cask, you can still detect Kininvie’s sweetness and fresh acidity.

Right place, right time

Trying to assemble Ikea bookcases while dessert is cooking downstairs.

The Last Drop 48 Years Old

An immediately spicy and, amazingly after all this time, slightly minty start before huge rancio notes of tropical fruits, sandalwood, wax and dunnage warehouses. In time you get baked earth, sandalwood, spice market, acacia honey, chocolate and the elegance of palo cortado Sherry. A tiny drop of water expands the pure fruits.

Palate

Lightly unctuous, the fruits starting gentle and syrup-like before twanging slightly – and pleasingly – to the sour side in the centre, where there’s also a maraschino note. Things then return to the succulent theme as it ends. There’s a light grip – but what do you expect from a blend whose youngest element is from 1965? In time, and with the water, a cherry tobacco note typical of ex-Bourbon comes through.

Finish

The dry glass emanates an astonishingly pure clover honey aroma.

Conclusion

A blend which, 27 years ago, was transferred to first-fill American oak and then left (or forgotten). The nose is extraordinary, the palate succulent and long. There’s also not a lot around – 592 bottles to be precise. Probably fewer now.

After a lightly tropical opening, this just flows across the tongue in sumptuous fashion: dark chocolate, dried fruit, prune, marmalade, a jag of sumac and once again light waxiness.

Finish

Long, elegant with a hint of smoke.

Conclusion

This has a totally relaxed but somehow enclosed character, as if it continues to hide something. Even with time it won’t fully reveal its secrets. I’d have liked just a little more light shone in. Still, it’s a belter.