The patty boasted a salty (good) crust, but was overgrilled and rubbery; the sweet brioche roll broke apart easily. Out-of-season tomato slices are a given this time of year, but these bordered on translucent.

The neighborhood icon that tourists line up for skewed closer to meh than memorable. A waxy cloak of cheese, too-dry bun, and overall blandness undermined what was otherwise a supremely juicy, perfectly cooked pub burger.

The brioche roll held up surprisingly well to the thick, nicely grill-charred patty—which, on its own, was pretty flavorless and under-seasoned. A generous shmear of ketchup pushed it back into hearty, satisfying territory.

The beefy, sturdy patty was cooked to a perfect medium. Lots of toppings made for balanced flavors but a messy burger—and the lower half of the bun wasn’t quite up to the task of keeping it all together.