After Waterloo: Reminiscences of European Travel 1815-1819 eBook

Before we arrived at Borgo San Donino we crossed the
Trebbia, one of the many tributary streams of the
Po, and which is famous for two celebrated battles,
one in ancient, the other in modern tunes (and probably
many others which I do not recollect); but here it
was that Hannibal gained his second victory over the
Romans; and here, in 1799, the Russians under Souvoroff
defeated the French under Macdonald after an obstinate
and sanguinary conflict; but they could not prevent
Macdonald from effecting his junction with Massena,
to hinder which was Souvoroff’s object.
In fact, in this country, to what reflections doth
every spot of ground we pass, over, give rise!
Every field, every river has been the theatre of some
battle or other memorable event either in ancient or
modern times.

Quis gurges aut quae flumina lugubris
Ignara belli?[81]

We started from Borgo San Donino next morning; about
ten miles further on the right hand side of the road
stands an ancient Gothic fortress called Castel Guelfo.
Between this place and Parma there is a very troublesome
river to pass called the Taro, which at times is nearly
dry and at other times, so deep as to render it hazardous
for a carriage to pass, and it is at all times requisite
to send on a man to ford and sound it before a carriage
passes. This river fills a variety of separate
beds, as it meanders very much, and it extends to
such a breadth in its debordements, as to render
it impossible to construct a bridge long enough to
be of any use.

This, however, being the dry season, we passed it
without difficulty. Two or three other streams
on this route, seguaci del Po, are crossed in
the same manner.

The road to Parma, after passing the Taro, lies nearly
in a right line and is bordered with poplars.
If I am not mistaken, it was somewhere in this neighbourhood
that the Carthaginians under Hannibal suffered a great
loss in elephants, who died from cold, being incamped
during the winter. I am told there is not a colder
country in Europe than Lombardy during the winter
season, which arises no doubt from its vicinity to
the Alps.

Opulence seems to prevail in all the villages in the
vicinity of Parma, and an immense quantity of cattle
is seen grazing in the meadows on each side of the
road. The female peasantry wear the Spanish costume
and are remarkably well dressed.

We arrived at Parma at twelve o’clock and stopped
there three hours.

PARMA.

After a hasty breakfast, Mr G—­ and myself
sallied forth to see what was possible during the
time we stopped in this city, leaving the Captain,
who refused to accompany us, to smoke his pipe.
This city is very large and there is a very fine Piazza.
The streets are broad, the buildings handsome and
imposing, and there is a general appearance of opulence.
We first proceeded to visit the celebrated amphitheatre,