Pane e Acqua, Milan

Concierge.com's insider take:

Design guru Rossana Orlandi opened this sophisticated shabby-chic trattoria next door to her warehouse showroom in November 2006. Previously a tobacconist's, the trattoria mixes furniture and fittings from its former life with pieces created or found by Orlandi: Think industrial-style architectural salvage filtered through an acutely Milanese design sensibility. But what makes the place is the laid-back atmosphere and the friendly guiding hand of the three young but experienced Teruzzi brothers, who between them handle most of the cooking, serving, and wine pouring. The good-value food is light Italian, based on carefully sourced organic ingredients, with homemade bread and plenty of risottos and salads; there are also a couple of tasting menus, including a delicious four-course seafood spread currently pegged at about €40($54). Pane e Acqua keeps café hours, with gourmet breakfast on offer from 8 a.m. and dinner service winding down relatively early, at 10 p.m.