While so many people seem to be purchasing poorly bred puppies
from pet stores (thereby encouraging sleazoids to continue to "breed" in puppy
mills), there are literally thousands of marvelous dogs dying in our "shelters".
In rescue, these places are rightfully called "kill shelters", because the
majority of the dogs that end up there, die there.

This is a primer for the newby to adopt a wonderful companion
dog from a kill shelter.

1. Before going to the kill shelter (pardon me for being
unable to call these places "shelters"), sit down with your other household
members (and please, let them all be above the age of TEN, minimum) to discuss
what you all want from this future dog friend. Write these things down. (Even if
you live alone and this dog will be your personal companion, don't skip this
step!)

2. After your list is compiled, let the adults in the
household review it. "Johnny" and "Cindy" might have immature expectations, but
Mom and Dad need to know better! Make your own list now.

3. Go to your local library and look for the AKC "Complete Dog
Book", hopefully a recent edition. Carefully review the groups (Sporting,
Herding, Toy, etc.) and whittle your list down to what you can LIVE with.
Remember, even a second-generation mix of any purebred dog will retain many of
the purebred characteristics.

4. Take the following tips under serious advisement:

A. Size DOES matter. If you're unwilling to live with a very
large dog, and perhaps have to do some housetraining (which might involve very
large puddles and piles), don't consider a very large dog.

B. If HAIR all over your home is an issue, don't look for a
hairy dog! Dogs SHED all year round.

C. Most public kill shelters will spay/neuter before allowing
the dog to go home with you. But the sex of your dog is important. Many male
dogs that have been intact past the age of 18 months WILL lift a leg (at least
once) in your home to "mark" his presence. That does NOT mean he is not
housebroken nor does it mean he's a "bad dog". Just be prepared.

D. Unless you are an experienced dog owner and your children
are above the age of 12, do not even consider adopting purebred or mixed Akita,
Rottweiler, Shar Pei, Pitbull or any related breed, German Shepherd pure or
mixed, Doberman Pinscher, Chow Chow.

E. If you opt for a Labrador Retriever, or any other purebred
or mix of the Sporting breeds, remember that these dogs are HIGH energy and
require exercise. Do not expect a couch potato.

F. Factor in the grooming necessary to properly care for your
new dog. Every dog needs a good bath once in a while, but some need experienced
grooming on a REGULAR basis.

G. Remember that every dog in the kill shelter is there for a
reason. Your dog might not be "perfect" so don't expect him/her to be so.

5. With your new information secured, visit (WITHOUT the kids)
your local kill shelters (as many as you can). DO NOT ADOPT! Just LOOK! As a
long-time kill shelter rescue person, I can safely give you these tips:

A. Just because a dog looks frightened does not mean it won't
make a wonderful companion. Sit back on your haunches and coax the dog forward
with hushed tones. It's likely that the dog will slowly creep forward and might
be the sweetest dog you've ever met.

B. Observe the kennel. Is there poop and pee in it? If there's
poop and pee in EVERY kennel in the kill shelter, then it's not the dog's fault.
But if all kennels (or most) are "clean", this might be an indication that the
dog is not housebroken (especially if there is a door in the kennel leading to
an outside run area.)

C. Is the dog dirty, does it smell, is it matted? So WHAT?!
Let's see how you'd look after a week or two on the street!

D. Does the dog bark at you, lunge at the kennel door, or
otherwise frighten you? This does not necessarily mean a thing! Perfectly
wonderful dogs often behave in this way when kenneled, especially in a kill
shelter environment. Any truly dangerous dog will have a "Bite Case" sign on its
kennel.

E. Determine how long the dog has been in the kill shelter by
looking at the paperwork above its kennel. Ask questions of the attendants. See
if you can "interview" the dog outside the kennel. (Some kill shelters encourage
this, others refuse.)

6. Make a list of the dogs you have seen that "pass" your
inspection and which you might consider as part of your family. Go back to the
kill shelter(s) with your ENTIRE family (husband/wife/kids/housemate/significant
other, et al). EVERYONE must feel comfortable with the dog(s), even if only
through the bars of the kennel.

7. If you are still unsure, put a "DND" (Do Not Destroy) on
the dog(s) in question and THINK HARD.

8. Go back to visit the dog(s) as many times as you can WITH
your…..(see above).

9. If a kill shelter calls you because you have placed a "DND"
on a dog, and you do NOT REALLY WANT that dog, don't TAKE IT!

10. If you find a dog that is perfectly suited to you, ADOPT
IT without placing the "DND" on it, or someone else might get it first.

FURTHERMORE, expect your new dog to be smelly, dirty, possibly
flea ridden. Some kill shelters will bathe a dog (a simple soapy bath does kill
fleas), others won't do a thing. If your dog has to be spayed/neutered, ask that
the Veterinary office bathe the dog with a flea shampoo before neutering
(although some kill shelters do this before sending a dog to the Vet for
neutering).

If your new family member is already spayed/neutered or the
kill shelter doesn't CARE about that (very rare in NY State now), expect to go
to the back door of the shelter to collect your dog. Bring a Martingale (NOT
CHOKER) collar and STRONG leash. If you have a crate, have it ready in the car.
Otherwise, cover the upholstery of your automobile and have a family member (if
possible) sit with the dog during its trip to its new home.

NEXT INSTALLMENT: The First Two Weeks: Living with a Kill
Shelter Rescue