As America’s first destination ski darling, Sun
Valley’s middle name is Tradition. Cocooned in
history and romance, it is without peer in the West.
Been-there, done-that Traditionalists approach
Sun Valley with a well-honed, but unstuffy sense of
style. They don’t want to waste time or money on
junk. They savor life and are looking for more.
Traditionalists soak up the comforts of Sun Valley
like a cat curled up next to a wood-fired stove.
They wander down the paths that beckon to wrap
themselves in the essence of this unparalleled place.
Getting from Point A to Point B and back in record
time is not No. 1 on their list. Sun Valley feeds their
need for substance, authenticity and connection.
They’re not into contrivance, plastic or the latest,
greatest thing, unless it makes life more interesting or
more enjoyable. They still welcome a good adventure.
They love new mountain gear, but were content to
let rocker skis evolve for a couple of years and to let
others figure out how they should be handled before
they clamped them on for a ride. They never lost their
love for wool, even when it was displaced by fleece.
With today’s wool in its no-itch form, they’re having
the last laugh.

Traditionalists don’t want to miss even the tiny
molecules of a Sun Valley experience. None would
miss the Eiffel Tower in Paris, but Traditionalists
would also seek out the tiny cafes where the chef is
also the waiter.
First things First
Sun Valley Resort founder and Union Pacific
Railroad Chairman Averell Harriman built the
nation’s first destination ski resort in a Western style
with European flair to entice passengers to travel
here on the railroad, which served the resort when
it opened in 1936. Brass bands met the trains at
the station near Ketchum and horse-drawn wagons
scooped up passengers for the three-mile ride to the
Sun Valley Lodge, which today is a Traditionalist’s
haven.
The first thing Traditionalists should do at the
lodge is to run a hand over the building’s exterior
wall that looks like plank siding. No slivers here—the
wall is concrete, which astonishes most people. This
touch is the beginning of connecting with the resort’s
history, which should continue with a stroll down
history lane, a gallery of resort photos that hang in
winter 2013/14 • sun valley guide

both wings of the lodge’s main floor. The
friendly doormen will point out the way.
A cozy dinner in a tall upholstered booth
at The Ram, the resort’s oldest restaurant,
sets Traditionalists up for a sound sleep
before a big day on Bald Mountain. Pianist
Larry Harshbarger plays standards most
nights and will let you sing along if you’ve
got the voice.
On the mountain
If it’s an epic storm night, powder will
demand a quick morning cup and a croissant
to arrive at the lifts in time for first tracks.
Otherwise, plan on carving the corduroy
first thing to capture magic-carpet-ride
sensations. The wise Traditionalist knows
that Baldy doesn’t close at noon and some
of the most inspiring skiing can be found in
the afternoon, after the speed demons have
spent their energy. Baldy’s high-speed quad
lifts provide as much vertical gain as anyone
can handle and most days any time is a good
time to hit the mountain.
The curious can get a look behind Baldy’s
curtain by joining a snowmaking tour or
booking an evening ride on The Beast at River
Run Lodge to see what the night shift does
to extend our lives on skis and to make sure

there’s good snow underfoot. Don’t tell the
kids, but Baldy is a high-tech miracle, and the
masters of “construction snow” have good
stories to tell.
Traditionalists will revel in romance in an
evening ride up the Roundhouse Gondola to
the historic Roundhouse Lodge for dinner.
On a clear night, watching the lights of
Ketchum and Sun Valley recede and give way
to the Milky Way’s glittering blanket is worth
the price of admission. The crackling wood in
the river-rock fireplace welcomes diners to the
mountain restaurant whose ceilings, walls
and windows were patterned after a railroad
building where locomotives were repaired.
Bon appetit.
Up the road
Nordic skiers will want to spend a day
at Galena Lodge about 24 miles north of
Ketchum. It was saved from the wrecking
ball by local activists and the generosity of
philanthropist Teresa Heinz Kerry.
On the way up state Highway 75, a quick
weekday trip through the Sawtooth National
Recreation Area Visitor Center will orient
the disoriented to the wild places around
them. It’s one of the few places around with a
Continued on page 18

SUN VALLEY’S ALWAYSEVOLVING TERRAIN PARK
IS A PLAYGROUND FOR
CHILDREN OF ALL AGES.

6

Sun Valley is for families, and no matter whether
your and your children’s tastes tend to the refined or
rad, you can captivate the senses and create memories
to last a lifetime this winter. Here are some ideas to
make the most of your family adventure.

• Try: Experts recommend booking a lesson at the
beginning of your vacation, allowing ample time to
practice new techniques and skills and get the most
out of your time on the slopes. Call (888) 490-5950
to reserve a lesson or to learn more.

hit the slOpes
Chances are you can’t wait to get out into the Sun
Valley area’s vast white playground. From first turns
to first tracks, the mountains in Sun Valley offer
something for everyone.
Your headquarters for gravity-induced family fun?
Carol’s Dollar Mountain Lodge and the standardsetting SnowSports program. From the charming,
squeaky-clean facilities, to hot lunches kids actually
eat and instructors who are hand-picked and specially
trained to teach children, your kids will beg to come
back again. All-day group lessons are available for
skiers ages 4-12 and snowboarders ages 6–12.
• Don’t forget: Discounted lift tickets and rentals can
be added to many SnowSports packages.

get sOme air
Until you are dressed and ready to hop on a lift,
don’t take your freestylers near Dollar Mountain.
Once they see the epic jumps, challenging boxes,
bonks, walls, rails and one of only two 22-foot
Superpipes in the Northwest, they will want to get
on them immediately. And who can blame them? Sun
Valley’s always-evolving terrain park is a playground
for children of all ages.
• Don’t miss: Try your skill on entry-level features
on Quarter Dollar. You will feel like a Slopestyle
star without having to get too far above the terra
firma, or, hopefully, the terra powder.
• Remember: Even if park and pipe isn’t your thing,
you can ski or ride the traditional runs on Dollar
winter 2013/14 • sun valley guide

while your kids catch some air.
• Try: Enjoy lunch on the deck at Dollar on a sunny day. It provides a great
vantage point to take in the kids’ derring-do.
Family ski day
If your children are intermediate-level skiers and above, you will most
likely find yourself on Bald Mountain, at the entrance to the wildly popular
Adventure Trails. These narrow, banking runs slice through trees and glades
on every area of the mountain. The best way to approach Adventure Trails
if your skis are longer than 130 centimeters is to take a deep breath and go
for it. The experts who cut these trails for Sun Valley say there is no shame
whatsoever in snow plowing.
• In the know: You can send your kids into the Adventure Trails and still stay
within earshot of them on the groomers. Meet up at the bottom of the run.
• Wallet-friendly tip: Feeding the family on a group ski day need not require
dipping into the college fund. Try the affordable taco bar at Lookout
Restaurant atop Baldy, or in Warm Springs Village, both Irving’s Red
Hots famous hot dogs and Apple’s Bar and Grill are family- and budgetfriendly. If you eat in one of the mountain lodges, remember that the portions are generous and many children split a regular-sized entrée—grab
an ample slice of pizza, or opt for special children’s dishes.
Schussing the day away
Cross-country skiing is a surprisingly family-friendly activity and they
don’t call Sun Valley Nordic Town USA for nothing! Whether your clan is
experienced on skinny skis or not, there is no more beautiful way to take
in some spectacular scenery. Miles and miles of groomed trails will literally
take you over the river and through the woods.
If your group is new to the sport, one easy way to get started is by taking
a lesson in basic techniques. Sun Valley Resort offers instruction in both
classic and skate skiing at the Sun Valley Club, located just east of the Sun
Valley Lodge. Full equipment rental is also available at this facility, as is a
restaurant and pro shop.
Galena Lodge, situated 23 miles north of Ketchum, also offers great
instruction, full equipment rentals, a dining room and a real chance to get
away from it all without having to go far. Both classic and skate ski rentals
are also available at many local retailers, including Backwoods Mountain
Sports and The Elephant’s Perch in Ketchum.
• Try: Whether you are 5 or 55, jump onto the Rails to Trails system that
connects the north and south valley. These 30 kilometers of trails are
relatively flat and offer a great deal of scenic beauty very close to town.
And the price is right: The Wood River Trail is a community-supported
resource and no pass is required.
• In the know: Snowshoeing is a terrific activity for the entire family, as well.
Every generation can enjoy the sport that does not require cumbersome,
expensive gear or specific clothing. You will almost always find snowshoe
trails where there is cross-country skiing.
• Consider: An overnight stay at Galena Lodge in one of their all-weather
yurts can be a great family adventure. These large, round tent-like enclosures are heated by a wood-burning stove and appointed with bunks,
cooking equipment and everything you and your family need to create
a memorable, cozy night in the woods. Access to the yurts is by a short
cross-country ski or snowshoe trek.
• Even better: Book a yurt at Galena during a full moon. The lodge offers
delicious, intimate full moon dinners throughout the season. They fill
up early, so call (208) 726-4010 to secure your spot.
Indoor fun
The perfect start to a quieter day is breakfast in Ketchum at The Moose
Girls Café or Perry’s restaurant. Both offer a unique, comfortable atmosphere, hearty egg dishes, healthy hot cereals, lots of kid favorites and specialties galore. Then wander over to The Toy Store, a unique emporium that
Continued on page 18
www.sunvalleyguide.com

SunValley
CLEANERS

Because the best dry cleaning does make a difference.
220 Lewis St
KETCHUM
726-9432

For gourmets of all stripes,
this is the place
By Kate Wutz Sun Valley Guide

3

THE FOODIE

Almost no one comes to Idaho just for the food. That
said, more people should. Despite its remote location, the
Sun Valley area is a foodie Mecca, filled with everything
from traditional prime rib and potatoes to Austrianinspired crepes, Italian delicacies, baked goods and mindblowing Asian fusion. A foodie can run wild in Sun Valley,
luxuriating in fine cuisine in a mountain setting few places
can rival.
where tO stay
Of course, Foodies will be best served by staying
somewhere with a good restaurant—and is close to other
good restaurants. On Main Street just north of downtown
Ketchum is the Knob Hill Inn, a luxurious, European-style
hotel with a fine restaurant, The Grill at Knob Hill. The
Grill serves everything from bar bites and cocktails to a
full prime rib dinner — or, if you prefer, escargots, lollipop
lamb chops or traditional Wiener schnitzel. The inn also
offers a complimentary breakfast buffet with offerings
that include fresh pancakes and fruit-and-yogurt parfaits.
up and at ’em
Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, but
many people still skip it. If you do that in Sun Valley, you
could miss out on some of the best the area has to offer.
If you’re looking for a sit-down breakfast, try Cristina’s
on Second Street in Ketchum, where Foodies can enjoy
an espresso, fine pastries or the orange cinnamon French
toast, made with Cristina’s own artisan bread. Not eating
breakfast? Cristina’s also serves lunch.
For those on the go, the Konditorei in Sun Valley Village offers coffee and Austrian-style pastries that can be
quickly grabbed on the way to the ski hill. Of course,
keeping in mind the appetites of families looking to spend
an active day outside, they also offer both sweet and
savory crepes, Belgian waffles (one served with Nutella
whipped cream) and a croque madame — a grilled ham
and Emmentaler Swiss cheese sandwich topped with two
poached eggs. The Konditorei is also open for lunch.

The braised lamb shank is an Idaho favorite at the Ketchum Grill. Photo by Roland Lane

time FOr sOme activity
Before Foodies can think about eating a fancy dinner, they need to work up an appetite. In between meals,
everyone can make time for a snowshoe or a quick Nordic
skiing jaunt at Galena Lodge, 23 miles north of Ketchum.
Galena Lodge offers gear rentals, skiing lessons, a variety
of trails for both skiers and snowshoers — and an excellent
lunch menu. The kitchen serves a variety of sandwiches,
including the Grown-Up Grilled Cheese, a medley of
bacon, apples, caramelized onions and Havarti cheese on
local sourdough bread. If you’re going for an evening spin
around the trails, try to do it on the night of a Full Moon
Dinner, held once a month. Galena’s trails are magical by
moonlight.
winter 2013/14 • sun valley guide

Sun Valley Resort also offers cross-country skiing and snowshoeing at its
Nordic Center. After taking a lesson or gliding around on your own, head
back to the resort and A La Mode, the gourmet hot cocoa bar located in Sun
Valley Village. For those who prefer alpine skiing, Foodies of all levels of skiing
and snowboarding expertise can test their skills on Bald Mountain. The grand
Seattle Ridge Lodge offers some of the best on-mountain food in the West.
Think grilled meats, hearty soups and fine salads, all in the comfort of a roaring
fire. For those who want a fine sit-down lunch, the choice is the Roundhouse.
Where else can Foodies sit at a white-tablecloth-and-silverware setting and be
served gourmet mountain favorites and fine wine, all while looking over the
snow-capped peaks of central Idaho?

Finally, it’s dinner time
It would be a shame to come to Sun Valley and not enjoy some prime rib
and trout. Fortunately, a few restaurants in the valley offer upscale versions
of Idaho cuisine.
• CK’s Real Food on Main Street in Hailey focuses on fresh, local food and
regional flavors while giving them an haute-cuisine twist. Though specials
and menus change, expect to find items such as a Snake River Kobe flatiron steak served with a perfectly crispy potato pancake, pork belly and
sundried tomato pesto, or grilled Idaho trout with Carolina tartar sauce.
• Excellent Idaho-influenced cuisine can also be found at a variety of restaurants in Ketchum, including the Sawtooth Club and the Ketchum Grill.
Both offer fish and steak; the Ketchum Grill menu almost always includes
braised lamb shank and polenta and a juicy, farm-raised roasted chicken.
• For fine cuisine in a slightly more formal setting in the heart of Ketchum,
try B Restaurant and Bar, the Cornerstone Bar and Grill, Boca or Michel’s
Christiania.
Enoteca is an excellent option for the oenophile visitor. Opened by the
Mason family of Ketchum Grill, this cozy restaurant in a historic building
offers an extensive list of vintages along with small plates inspired by Tuscan
chefs. If you’re just munching, opt for the artisanal cheese board and baconwrapped dates; for something more satisfying, explore the wood-fired pizza
menu or opt for one of the “bigger small plates,” including lamb chops and
lasagne.
For Foodies who crave something less traditional, try Rickshaw, an intimate little spot on Washington Avenue in Ketchum. The food is inspired by
the flavors of Thailand, Vietnam, China and Indonesia, full of bright hits of
citrus punctuating the smoother flavors of curry, coconut milk, peanut sauce
and tofu. Do not skip the green papaya salad just because it’s chilly.
Dashi, on East Avenue in Ketchum, offers yet another variety of Asian
fusion to diners. Dashi serves up everything from small plates such as a beet
salad with local beets, grilled pears, watercress, pecans and goat cheese to
excitingly creative ramen bowls featuring pork belly, pickled cucumber and
shiitake mushrooms. Chef and owner Tyler Stokes’ menu melds Idaho with
Continued on page 18
www.sunvalleyguide.com

Shopping, anyone?
Among the boutiques and thrift stores are hidden a few Foodie havens.
First, stop by Iconoclast Books on Sun Valley Road in Ketchum. There’s a
surprisingly extensive selection of cookbooks, fun gifts and even a secondhand book section, all of which can be (carefully) browsed with a house-made
latte and baked treat in hand.
For the more nutritionally-minded, Glow Live Food Cafe on Washington
Avenue has a small shop near the cafe that offers supplements and “live”
food items; NourishMe on Main Street has an excellent selection of healthy
foods such as gluten-free bread mixes, flax crackers and gourmet chocolates
that taste good while being good for you.
The grocery stores in Ketchum — Atkinsons’ Market and Main Street
Market — both have excellent selections of wine, fresh breads, gourmet
cheeses and other delicacies. Both also offer excellent take-away food as well,
if Foodies want to stock up on some savory appetizers before going out for
the big meal of the day.

One of the primary selling points for Sun Valley is the
lack of lift lines on the wide-open terrain of Bald Mountain. Another is the region’s abundant back-country ski and
snowboarding opportunities. Some people come here to mix
at parties, see the arts and eat specialty cuisine. And others
come mainly to ski and ride. We call them the Experts.
where tO stay
If you are one of the purists who come to Sun Valley to
make as many tracks as possible each day—if you are here
to take advantage of the 3,000-foot vertical drop on Bald
Mountain, one of the longest continual vertical drops in the
U.S.—then you will want to get up early and get to the top
of the hill without a lot of fuss. With that in mind, there are
several vacation-rental agencies in the area that put Experts in
a warm, comfortable condominium with easy access to Baldy.
• Options for rental agencies include Coldwell Banker Distinctive Properties, High Country Resort Properties, Sun
Valley Resort, Thunder Spring, and Wyndham Vacation
Rentals and Sun Valley Ultimate Services.
• Visit Sun Valley, a branch of the Sun Valley visitors bureau,
can also help visitors find a condominium (or house) in
close proximity to the part of town best suited to your
tastes.
• The Kentwood Lodge is in the heart of Ketchum.
up On the hill
The River Run side of Baldy, including Seattle Ridge and
the bowls, is generally sunny in the mornings, whereas the
Warm Springs side is shaded in the morning and sunny in the
afternoons. The high-speed quadruple lifts on both sides of
the mountain, known affectionately as “the quads,” will get
you within striking distance of the bowls, which are where
everyone in town goes on a powder day.
The expert ski runs on the River Run side of Baldy
include Fire Trail, Exhibition, Inhibition, Olympic and the
upper bowls. On the Warm Springs side, Limelight and
International are steep groomers, while Upper Hemingway
and Upper Cozy will likely offer some bumps. There are also
quite a few steep, narrow shots under some of the ski lifts if
you don’t mind having an audience.
Veteran Baldy skier, former ski racer and author Dick
Dorworth says it is best to hit the slopes at 9 a.m., when few
people are on the mountain, “except on a powder day.”
If you are lucky enough to get to the top of the bowls
when the rope drops after a night of snow, Experts can be
part of the free-for-all that takes place for the next few hours
as powder hounds go to work.
However, Sun Valley is known more for its exceptional
grooming than its powder. To carve some classic Sun Valley
corduroy, be sure to get on the mountain early.
“The groomers on Baldy are as good as it gets,” Dorworth
said.
winter 2013/14 • sun valley guide

Getting off-piste
There is also great out-of-bounds skiing off of Baldy, but you have to know
where to go, and where to turn to get back to the lifts, or where to leave a
car if you are straying out of bounds. However, out-of-bounds skiers do so
at their own risk—there is no ski patrol there and avalanches can occur.
Turkey Bowl and Lime Kiln off of Seattle Ridge to the south are favorites,
as well as Cold Springs to the east, but these routes can require a long hike
out. Another popular area is The Burn west of Warm Springs, an area cleared
several years ago by the Castle Rock Fire.
Backcountry skiing and boarding has taken off in the Sun Valley area
in recent years. Get some local knowledge, including avalanche conditions,
before grabbing your skins and avalanche beacons and heading out into the
mountain ranges north of Ketchum.
Sawtooth Mountain Guides rents a winter ski hut and offers professionally
guided backcountry ski trips a 30-minute drive from Ketchum. Sun Valley
Trekking also provides backcountry trips, and has several yurts for rent during winter, all within reach of great skiing.
If you are looking for a true adrenaline rush, call Sun Valley Heli Ski,
a company said to be “steeped in tradition.” Sun Valley Heli Ski, based in
Ketchum, pioneered American helicopter skiing more than 50 years ago,
whisking powder aficionados from a heliport north of Ketchum to the big,
wide-open territory covering three mountain ranges.
Of course, it’s hard to say which days of your stay will be the best for skiing
on Baldy and which days should be spent doing something else. So, Experts
can take advantage of Sun Valley Resort’s multi-day lift-ticket packages. In
case of unfavorable weather conditions, you can opt out of Baldy for a day
and trade that day’s lift pass for a massage, ice-skating session, three-course
meal at The Ram or a shopping discount.
Got gear?
For alpine skiers, Pete Lane’s Mountain Sports, PK’s Ski and Sports, Sturtevants, Sturtos Hailey and Formula Sports offer wide selections of gear and
apparel. All of the ski shops offer tuning services, as do specialty shops The
Waxroom and Ski Tek. For those venturing into the backcountry, head for
Backwoods Mountain Sports and The Elephant’s Perch in Ketchum.
Winding down
Apres-ski experiences can begin at the River Run base of Bald Mountain,
where live entertainment is offered during high season, but take your boots
off and head to Main Street if you are looking for variety. The Cornerstone
Bar and Grill is located in the only building on the historical registry in town
(1884). Excellent happy-hour cocktails are served at an ultra-modern bar that
changes color, causing newcomers to wonder if they have had enough.
If you need a respite from town and have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, you
can take the beautiful seven-mile drive west of Ketchum for a soak in Frenchman’s Bend hot springs. The springs are located in Warm Springs Creek on
the left after crossing an iron bridge, nearby to several upscale homes. There
are no services there, but locals tend the rocks, adjust the water flow and
keep the place clean year round.
Where to re-energize
Assuming you want to cut fresh tracks or carve corduroy as soon as possible, you can head straight to the bottom of River Run or Warm Springs lifts
and have breakfast at one of the lodges, beginning at 8 a.m. There will be
plenty of time to get on the lift by the 9 a.m. first chair. Luckily, Sun Valley
Resort also serves fine lunch buffets at Seattle Ridge on the far side of the
bowls, and at the Lookout, on the summit of Baldy.
If your main interest is in loading up on carbs for the next day on the
slopes, why not gorge in the plush and romantic décor of Il Naso Italian
restaurant, or sit down at the new Enoteca on Main Street, which serves
wood-fired pizzas, artisanal cheeses and has a lively bar. East of Main
Street, Cava Cava offers great cocktails, a good wine list and a variety of
Mediterranean-inspired dishes. sVg
www.sunvalleyguide.com

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12

If you’re a first-timer in Sun Valley, you’ve picked
the perfect winter destination; after all, we are
ranked No. 4 in SKI magazine’s listing of the top
Western mountain resorts. The resort area and the
surrounding Wood River Valley is like a romantic memory—simply gorgeous and ever so slightly
elusive.
The intimate towns of Bellevue and Hailey are
bookended by sage-frosted hills to the south; Ketchum and Sun Valley burrow in the stunning Central
Idaho Rocky Mountains to the north. Sun Valley
is remote, but our elusiveness is part of the area’s
charm. Unspoiled by corporate commercialism that
has leached through the borders of other mountain
resort towns, and beloved by locals who are loyal to
businesses that have withstood the test of time, Sun
Valley boasts a unique character reflected in an array
of human personalities.
“There’s an incredible collection of people here,”
says Paul, an elderly gentleman whom I encounter at

a coffee shop in Ketchum. “And everyone mixes very
well.”
Sun Valley’s varied personality is further reflected
in the multiple things one can do here. So, for your
first time in Sun Valley, what are your options? What
to do? Where to go? Like anywhere, in Sun Valley
people, businesses and fads come and go. But some
things, like the mountains that surround us, have
been around for ages. These are the places that a
first-timer should visit. These are Sun Valley staples.
sleeping in histOric cOmFOrt
If you are looking for a place to stay that oozes
with traditional Sun Valley charisma, try the Sun
Valley Inn. Originally opened as the Challenger Inn
in the 1930s, the Inn offers a charming alternative
to the Sun Valley Lodge, which is a short stroll away
through a picturesque pedestrian village of shops,
restaurants and even a movie theatre. The Inn, which
was inspired by the movie “I Met Him In Paris,” is
winter 2013/14 • sun valley guide

gilded with ornate furnishings and sumptuous fabrics. It provides 190 rooms,
a conference center and delicious dining at The Ram restaurant. However,
if you want to venture slightly further afield to dine, without getting in the
car, take your significant other on what is possibly the most romantic night
out—a sleigh ride under the stars to the Trail Creek Cabin, where you can
dine on typically Western fare by a crackling fire.
Hitting the slopes
The Inn and the Sun Valley Lodge offer two year-round heated pools that
steam against a crisp, cold winter night and soothe tired post-skiing bones.
Best of all, they’re only minutes away from a beginner’s ski haven: Dollar
Mountain. As a beginner, there might be nothing quite so alarming as tackling Bald Mountain, the resort’s larger, more advanced ski area immediately
west of Ketchum. Dollar, however, offers calm slopes and a luxurious lodge
with a wide selection of comfort foods.
Dollar boasts 10 runs and five lifts on its 628-foot vertical rise, including
two high-speed quad lifts. Particularly appropriate for beginner skiers is the
“magic carpet,” a slow-moving, soft conveyor belt that takes younger skiers
up a short slope where they can take their first turns. For adults, most of
their first runs are on Poverty Flats, accessed by the Quarter Dollar lift. It’s
even better when one’s first awkward turns are guided by an expert from the
SnowSports School at Dollar Mountain.
After a luminous afternoon on the slopes—Dollar is treeless which means
more sun, and fewer pesky branches to get in one’s way—enjoy some time
in Carol’s Dollar Mountain Lodge. Indulge in a hot cocoa, or something
stronger, or chose something yummy from a delightful family-friendly menu.
For those who prefer not to ski—there are those of us who would like to
curl up in an armchair while others tackle the slopes—the lodge is a sumptuously rustic place to relax with a great book, while friends or family members
ski or snowboard. Or, given that the lodge offers spectacular views of Bald
Mountain, skiers and non-skiers can dine in the sun on the heated deck.
For an après-ski drink or snack, head to The Ram Bar at the Sun Valley
Inn, where you can have a drink before relaxing your bones in the nearby
heated pool.
Some other tips for getting outdoors are:
• To get geared up for skiing or snowboarding, several sports stores offer
rental packages and top-notch gear. Try Pete Lane’s, Sturtevants or Formula Sports.
• If you want to try something other than downhill skiing, go to the Sun
Valley Club at Sun Valley Resort or Galena Lodge, 23 miles north of Ketchum—both offer opportunities for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.
• If you’re in Sun Valley for the winter holidays, the resort puts on a spectacular Christmas Eve ice show on the outdoor rink followed by a fireworks
show over Dollar Mountain.
Dinner out on the town
Finding excellent places to eat in the Sun Valley area is a formidable task,
only because it offers so many options. Those new to town might want to try
two of Ketchum’s oldest and coziest dining spots: The Pioneer Saloon and the
Ketchum Grill. Originally a casino dating back to the 1940s and shrouded in
a dim light that casts a warm glow over the heads of various game animals
mounted on the wall, the Pio (as the Pioneer is known by the locals) is reminiscent of an ancient Wild West saloon. The Pio doesn’t take reservations, so
be prepared to wait, even during slack seasons. The Ketchum Grill has been a
staple for locals and tourists alike for 22 years. Owned by husband-and-wife
team Anne and Scott Mason (he is the head chef, she concocts delectable
pastries and desserts), the Grill is located in the historic Ed Williams House,
which was built in 1885. The ambience inside is lively and warm.
Ernest Hemingway 101
After all that food and skiing, it might be time to visit the haunts of Sun
Valley’s most famous resident, Ernest Hemingway. A regular at The Alpine
Continued on page 18
www.sunvalleyguide.com

Being young in a ski resort town can
be challenging, especially if you’re incomechallenged, or ensnared by a city-is-alwaysbest narrative. What separates Sun Valley, or
more specifically, Ketchum, from comparable ski towns is the accessibility of affordable
dining and multiple activities that offer even
the most wanting wallet of the under-30s
things to do. Here, traditional small-town
bars flourish, coupled with friendly locals
and good eats. In Ketchum, all the best
spots are centrally located downtown—an
additional plus in that it puts everything you
need within walking distance.
gliding and riding
So, you’ve come here to ski, right? First,
you need some direction, a little advice as
to where to “shred the gnar.” There’s no
shortage on Bald Mountain, which boasts
one of the most consistent fall lines in the
country. With more than 3,000 feet of
vertical, Baldy is guaranteed to give you a
fast ride. On the Warm Springs side, you
can head up the 11-minute Challenger quad
and head straight down the lift line for an
intense workout.
“That’ll get you in shape better than
anything I know of,” says local pro skier
Cody Barnhill.
The south-facing slopes are also a go-to
spot after the resort has gotten a big dump,
as well as the Rock Garden and Wolverton
runs.
On Dollar Mountain, a vast terrain
park and superpipe are popular with skiers
and snowboarders.

FOOd up high and dOwn lOw
Up on the mountain and looking for
a meal? The Lookout, at the top of Bald
Mountain, is perfect for mid-day eats. Get
your lunch here and take a run immediately
after, as opposed to getting sleepy on the lift
while you digest. It serves affordable tacos
and fresh burritos, as well as barbecue and
beers outside in the spring. If you head up
in the afternoon, you might catch the 3:30
after-work club hanging around until the ski
patrol kicks them out. The Lookout is also a
warming hut and has lockers inside in case
winter 2013/14 • sun valley guide

you need to stash some of your layers.
Maybe you’ve packed it in, headed back down the mountain, and need
sustenance in town—economical, filling nourishment. Two local favorites are
La Cabanita and Wrap City—even during off seasons these lunch spots are
busy. La Cabanita offers a traditional Mexican menu with homemade flair.
Wrap City serves healthy salads and wraps—the Chinese chicken salad wrap
is a house favorite. Subshack serves savory sandwiches on homemade bread.
For tasty, affordable Asian food, try Thai Cuisine and Sushi Bar on Sixth
Street. Sushi on Second offers excellent sushi in a more refined setting.
Going out on the town
So, if you’ve decided to spend all day on the mountain, some après-ski
entertainment is in order. If cocktails, high ceilings and cushy chairs are your
thing, head over to the River Run Lodge, where you’ll find plenty of live music.
Looking for something more casual? Apple’s, at the Warm Springs base of the
mountain, offers a lively après-ski scene that is popular with locals.
Looking for grub to accompany your après-ski beer? One word:
Grumpy’s—a tiny tucked-away cabin on Warm Springs Road—just look for
the sign that says “Sorry, We’re Open.” Here, regulars have enjoyed burgers
and beers with friends or, sometimes, a few high-rollers, including Bruce
Springsteen and Tom Hanks. Alternatively, Lefty’s is another great location
for beer and bar fare. It features burgers, subs and salads, and plenty of TVs
tuned to sports channels. Wiseguy Pizza Pie
offers hand-tossed pizzas whole or by the slice.
It is located near the Cellar Pub, where you can
In Ketchum, you
get going on a night out.
In Ketchum, you won’t have to worry about
won’t have to worry
waiting for 20 minutes to get an overpriced
about waiting for
cocktail. Ketchum was originally a mining
20 minutes to get an
town, and that flavor is still a big influence.
Real small-town bars still exist here. The Celoverpriced cocktail.
lar Pub has Guinness on tap and buffalo burgers. The next stop can be Whiskey Jacques’,
which features two full bars, giant big screen
TVs, arcade games and a stage with live music. Whiskey Jacques’—once a
favorite haunt of writer Ernest Hemingway—will offer live music and DJs
throughout the winter season.
Across from Whiskey’s is The Casino, a favorite late-night spot that was
once—believe it or not—a casino. With plenty of pool tables, a jukebox and
room at the bar, the Casino stays busy into the early morning.

Where to stay
A reasonably priced place to catch up on some sleep is the Best Western
withwith
Tyrolean Lodge, located near the base of Bald Mountain. It is only a five-minute Consignment
Consignment
Consignment
with
a Cause
walk away from pretty much everything. It offers a hot tub, pool, steam room
aa Cause
Cause
and an exercise facility, as well as a free shuttle service to the ski lifts.
DianeDiane
Von Furstenberg,
I.N.C.,
Von
Furstenberg,
I.N.C.,
Diane
VonTahari,
Furstenberg,
I.N.C.,
The Tamarack Lodge and the Lift Tower Lodge are good choices for people Velvet,
Joie,
Ralph
Velvet,
Ralph
Velvet,Joie,
Joie, Tahari,
Tahari, Ralph
Lauren,
Transit, Majestic,
FreeFree
looking for affordable hotel rooms right in town.
Lauren,
Lauren,Transit,
Transit, Majestic,
Majestic, Free
People,
Burning
Torch,
Neiman
In Hailey, try the AmericInn or Wood River Inn.
People,
Neiman
People,Burning
Burning Torch,
Torch, Neiman
Marcus,
BCBG,
Pendleton,
Marcus,
BCBG,
Pendleton,
Marcus,
BCBG,
Pendleton,

Graham
Spencer,
TSE,TSE,
Peter
Graham
Spencer,
Peter
Ready for a new day
Graham
Spencer,
TSE,
Peter
Cohen,
Haute
Hippie,
Trelise
Cohen,
Haute
Hippie,
Trelise
Cohen,
Haute
Hippie,
Trelise
Morning comes and you are ready for another day on the mountain. But Cooper,
Rivamonti,
Chanel,
Cooper,
Rivamonti,
Chanel,
Cooper,
Rivamonti,
Chanel,
first you need a cup of Joe to get your body started. Java on Fourth and the bebe, bebe,
Urban
Zen,
Michael
Urban
Zen, Zen,
Michael
bebe,
Urban
Michael
Kors, Dana
Buchman,
Roberto
Coffee Grinder offer a wide choice of signature coffee drinks and food options. Kors,Kors,
Dana
Buchman,
Roberto
Dana
Buchman,
Roberto
Cavalli,
Brunello
Cucinelli
Brunello
Cucinelli
Newcomers to Java should sample the famous Bowl of Soul—organic coffee Cavalli,
Cavalli, Brunello Cucinelli
spiced with Mexican chocolate. The Coffee Grinder has been locally owned
and operated for more than 20 years. It offers a chocolate orange mocha that
always stirs a buzz.
Tuesday – Saturday, 10 – 6
For those who want to mix it up from day to day, Starbucks is located in Tuesday
Saturday,
10 – 6Ketchum
591– 4th
Street
East,
Tuesday
– Saturday,
10 – 6
goldmineconsign.org
Street
East, East,
Ketchum
591
4th Street
Ketchum
the heart of town, in the same building as the visitor center, where people can 591 4th
208.726.5544
All proceeds benefit:
goldmineconsign.org
goldmineconsign.org
get the 411 on just about anything. One block to the east is the city’s newest 208.726.5544
All proceeds
benefit:
208.726.5544
All proceeds
benefit:
coffee shop, Velocio.
Happy trails! sVg
www.sunvalleyguide.com

15

16

winter 2013/14 â&#x20AC;˘ sun valley guide

2

TOWNS

COUNTLESS
ADVENTURES
Sun Valley/Ketchum in winter is like the
proverbial box of chocolates: From the
outside everything is draped in the same
color, but once you bite in there’s a flavor
for every palette. What will the sparkly
white landscape offer up today? A schuss
down Baldy? A sledding race on Penny
Hill? A snowshoe stroll across the White
Clouds golf course? Or is catching air on
Dollar Mountain’s state-of-the-art terrain
park more to your taste? Perhaps it’s the
perfect day to skate ski the Wood River
Trail. Whatever your appetite, use this map
to pick your snowy adventure—it’s sure to
be a delicious one.

www.sunvalleyguide.com

17

Traditionalist from page 5

stuffed wolverine, a most elusive creature, along with a new video
about it. Our favorite Nordic ski and snowshoe trail, the North
Fork Trail, is located there, too. It’s an easy figure-eight ramble, dogfriendly, along a shallow creek lined with soft snow drifts. People on
this trail are more prone to drifting in time than to racing time trials,
so it’s peaceful and friendly and a good workout.
Quaint Galena Lodge, once a way station for travelers, serves up
spectacular soup. It lies in the center of a pretzel of groomed Nordic
trails at the top of the Harriman Trail, which stretches from the lodge
to the SNRA Visitor Center at the south end.
Wandering Ketchum
Back in town, some Traditionalists will want to go in search of the
spirit of famous author Ernest Hemingway. Books and biographies
about him are abundant, but the best way to understand why he lived
here is to walk outside, take in the crisp blue winter sky, then have a
cocktail in Ketchum, the town he enjoyed with many friends.
Once home to a lead and silver smelter and once the largest sheepshipping center in the U.S., Ketchum was settled before Sun Valley.
Today it’s a place to find new twists on world cuisine or penultimate
comfort food.
When the legs become putty, Traditionalists can find a place to

watch the world go by with a coffee drink in hand. Chain or small
brewer, Ketchum’s got it. Looking to wind down? The nearest hot
tub, a session with a massage therapist or a yoga class at the YMCA
or Zenergy Health Club and Spa are the ticket to some relaxing alpha
waves.
Dancing shoes
After an afternoon and evening in Ketchum, Traditionalists must
exchange their sheepskin boots for dancing shoes, take their partner
by the hand and lead their friends into the embrace of the dark-paneled
walls of the Duchin Lounge in the Sun Valley Lodge, where concert
pianist Joe Fos and his trio can play anything—really—but give
dancers the allegretto swing-time of their lives. From a slow waltz to
a jazz jive, it’s all there.
Of the old-fashioned cocktails-and-jazz bar, one well-traveled
Traditionalist gushed, “You don’t know what you have here, this easy
atmosphere, this music, this dancing—this doesn’t exist anywhere else
anymore. It’s amazing and wonderful.”
After a of couple days like these, Traditionalists will want to tuck
in with their favorite anti-inflammatory. They’re gonna need it, but
it’ll only hurt when they walk downstairs. However, laughing will be
no problem. sVg

Family from page 7

has delighted children with hand-selected items for more than 30 years. If
the gang is hungry again, head across the street to Despo’s, a family favorite
offering tasty Mexican fare, or Smoky Mountain Pizzeria.
A dip in a pool might be a great way to spend a day off, too. Many local
hotels offer year-round, indoor and outdoor heated pools and the Wood River
YMCA in Ketchum has one that will make the kids’ eyes pop. The huge waterpark features slides, a lazy river and a
splash park. A day pass entitles you to
everything else the Y offers, including
an epic rock-climbing gym.
Maybe it’s the perfect day for a
movie. In Ketchum and Sun Valley,
the Magic Lantern Cinema, Screening Room and the Sun Valley Opera
House offer first-run films and almost
always have family-appropriate offerings. In Hailey, the Big Wood 4 Cinemas offer stadium seating and 3-D
versions of the most popular movies.
If the kids still have energy to
burn, the historic bowling alley and
game room at the Sun Valley Lodge
offers old-school fun at its finest. Rent
shoes, grab a lane, put up the bumpers—or not—and enjoy an afternoon
or evening that reminds us that the
simple things are often the best.
The little ones will enjoy learning to ski at the
Not enough? Add to your list a
SnowSports School at Dollar Mountain.
Photo by Kevin Syms, courtesy of Sun Valley Resort
horse-drawn sleigh ride to Trail Creek
Cabin, figure skating at the iconic
outdoor Sun Valley skating rink, sledding on Penny Hill (at the corner of
Sun Valley Road and Dollar Road), tubing on the tubing hill at River Run
or snowmobiling at Smiley Creek, over Galena Pass.
With nearly 80 years of providing guests with the ultimate experience
on the slopes and off, Sun Valley is a place that is easy to warm up to. After
all, it is the original American ski resort. sVg
18

Foodie from page 9

Asia in dishes such as the Niman Ranch beef tenderloin, which
is served with potatoes, local chard, ginger soy jus and enoki — a
type of Japanese mushroom.
Globus, a longtime Ketchum favorite, offers items such as
cider-marinated pork tenderloin alongside traditional curries,
Pad Thai and ahi tuna with a golden beet puree.
Save room for nightlife?
When looking for a good cocktail and perhaps some gourmet munchies, look for the Cornerstone Bar and Grill on Main
Street in Ketchum. The cocktails are crafted with care, especially Erik’s Ultimate Manhattan, named after Cornerstone coowner Erik Vorm. This Manhattan is made with name-brand
bourbon, vermouth, whiskey-barrel bitters and topped with a
cherry, up or on the rocks. The Bourbon Bramble, which consists of Makers Mark, lemon and berry preserves, shaken, is a
popular choice as well. An excellent selection of wine and beer
is available if desired, and culinary offerings include mushroom
risotto, homemade macaroni and cheese and an ambitious tuna
tartare with seasoned squid.
Bon appétit! sVg
Beginner from page 13

Club (now Whiskey Jacques’) and The Casino, both busy bars
on Main Street in Ketchum, Hemingway stayed at the Sun
Valley Lodge in a lavish suite he called the “Glamour House,”
where he worked on his acclaimed novel “For Whom the
Bell Tolls.” People can visit the writer’s grave in the Ketchum
Cemetery north of downtown; many visitors leave coins on
the headstone shaded in a grove of trees. The Hemingway
Memorial is also a must-visit. Situated northeast of Ketchum
and Sun Valley on Trail Creek Road, the memorial consists of
Hemingway’s bust and a eulogy he wrote for a friend: “Best of
all he loved the fall … the leaves yellow on the cottonwoods,
leaves floating on the trout streams and above the hills the high
blue windless skies.” sVg
winter 2013/14 • sun valley guide

YOUR AIRPORT’S PLAN HAS
PICKED-UP SOME TAILWINDS
• New non-stop flights to San Francisco on United start December 12th
• Alaska is expanding its non-stop flight service between SUN / Los Angeles
and SUN / Seattle resulting in 10% more inbound seats
• Work has begun on FAA supported infrastructure improvements at SUN
• Delta to replace turbo-props with regional jet service between SUN / SLC
• $500,000 Federal Grant awarded to improve east coast connecting service