In remote regions of Nigeria, women have few rights and little access to education, so for some women Kunbwada offers hope.

Queen Hajia has tens of thousands of subjects, and has ruled for 12 years after inheriting the throne following her mother's death.

Now she's witnessing changing times. As more young people leave the community and head to the towns in search of work and money, there's a fear these traditions are being lost.

The elders of the community blame foreign influences from the towns for what they see as a growing disrespect of the local culture and beliefs.

Mohammed Sani, who has the honorary title of "Custodian of the Shrine", told CNN, "The West is making our tradition go back. We want our people to be enlightened, but Western values are having a bad effect."

As for modernity, the Queen says it does bring some benefits. "I have seen many changes," she said. "Things have improved, and the new town has helped education and infrastructure."