Credits Thanks to Carrol L. Henderson of the Minnesota DNR for contributing artwork from Woodworking for Wildlife. Thanks to Linda Roeder for organization and layout of this publication. Photos by Chris Grondahl and Harold Umber

Introduction

Providing nesting areas, feeding, and watching wildlife are becoming increasingly popular sports in North Dakota. These activities generate about 18 million dollars annually to our state. More importantly, these pastimes provide hours of relaxation, entertainment, and enjoyment for both young and old alike. This publication introduces some types of nest structures, feeders, and photo blinds which can be constructed in your home at a minimal expense. There are four sections to this publication. The first covers nest boxes and platforms. These structures are meant to enhance existing habitat or provide a nest structure where none presently exists. This does not mean that natural habitat is not important. Dead and dying trees which provide nesting cavities are still the best type of habitat available. The second section describes wildlife feeders. Feeding birds and mammals in the winter can be good for both you and wildlife. First, it provides you a pastime and viewing opportunity during the cold winter months. Secondly, wildlife may have difficulty finding adequate food and this additional source can help them survive the winter. Remember, planting a crop for feed is just as good, or better, than grain in a feeder. Section three is a short description of predator guards which are very important additions to any wooden support post. The final section describes two types of homemade photo blinds which can be made with minimal effort or dollars spent. If you've never tried a photo blind, you may be surprised at the results.

Nest Boxes and Nesting Platforms

General Information for Nest Boxes and Nesting Platforms Providing nesting areas for wildlife is a popular and growing hobby for many North Dakotans. Building houses according to the proper specifications, placing them in the right habitat, and maintaining them can benefit both bird and mammal populations. If they are not monitored for detrimental species such as the house sparrow, they may actually do more harm than good. It is important to realize that not all birds and mammals nest in cavities. Many birds, like the American robin or meadowlark, either build cupshaped nests in trees or nest on the ground. The nest box plans that are found in this publication are specific to wildlife that utilize a cavity, either within a dead or dying tree or a man-made structure such as a nest box. Cavity nesting birds will accept any kind of nest box that they can enter. Before deciding on what kind of nest box to build, there are considerations which should be taken--the size of the entrance hole, interior dimensions, proper ventilation, and the capability to open the nest box for monitoring and cleaning. Do not construct a box for &quot;birds&quot; in general as most species require different sized houses and entrance holes. The following guidance and construction plans will provide specific plans for most North Dakota species. For all practical purposes, wood is the only appropriate building material to use. Wood is a natural material with good insulating properties. Plastic and metal often overheat. Green &quot;pressure-treated&quot; lumber is impregnated with copper arsenate as a preservative. If the chemical is not applied perfectly, the wood is toxic to birds and humans. Exterior grade plywood contains dangerously high levels of formaldehyde and therefore is also not the best choice. The best woods to use are rough cut cedar or redwood. They naturally resist deterioration when exposed to sun and rain and the weathered look is inconspicuous and attractive. Never paint or stain the inside of a nest box. If you want to paint the exterior, close up the box and paint only what you can see. Use an exterior grade latex paint and give the top a second coat. Choose a light shade which reflects most heat or a natural color such as green, tan, or gray. A heavy grade of linseed oil stain works well also. Houses that blend in with their surroundings are more appealing than brightly painted boxes and less likely to draw the attention of human vandals. Nest boxes can be mounted in several ways. They may be attached to existing wood or metal fence posts, power or telephone poles, existing trees, or on wood or metal posts or pieces of pipe used specifically for this purpose. Utility poles are often suitable for mounting nest boxes; however, permission should be obtained from the utility companies before this is done. Discretion should also be used before mounting to trees. Do not place bird boxes designed for bluebirds on trees because this invites competition from too many other species. Predator-proofing should, be considered for all bird nest boxes that are not mounted on steel fence posts or pipe. A piece of sheet metal, tin, or used aluminum plates from newspaper offices serve well to prevent predators from climbing wooden posts. Sheets should be stapled or screwed on around the outside of the wood post be at least 12 inches high. The bottom of the guard should be at least two feet above ground level.

Do not put perches on any bird houses. Only the unwanted house sparrows and starlings prefer perches. If house sparrows or starlings begin nesting in a bird house tear out the nest material as these species are not protected by state or federal law. Nests may need to be removed numerous times before these birds abandon their efforts.

A. The Peterson house has seven parts and is assembled in this order:

B. The inner roof is toe-nailed to the back.

C. Then the floor is toe-nailed to the back.

D. Third, one side is nailed to the resulting frame.

E. Then the other side is nailed to the frame.

F. Next, the swing-down front is fastened by a nail into each side. A third nail is pounded part way into the side near the entrance hole. This is removed each time the house is a checked.

G. Finally, the outer roof is nailed on top.

Editor's Note: -- Good sanitation and maintenance of the nest box at the end of the breeding season are your best defenses against ectoparasites and other insects. To repel blowflies, wasps and ants during the breeding season, some researchers recommend using a pyrethrin insecticide as the safest pesticide.

Nest Tub

A structure which has also proven to be effective in attracting Canada geese is the fiberglass nest tub. These tubs measure 32 inches in diameter and have an 8&quot; sidewall with an additional 2&quot; drop in the bottom of the tub. These structures are mounted on a 9 foot pipe after the pipe has been driven into the bottom of the wetland. The best time to erect these structures is during the winter when you can work on top of the ice. Select a location where the water will be from 1 to 3 feet deep and, if possible, at least 50 feet from the shore. A stand of emergent vegetation such as bulrush is an excellent location. The pipe should extend out of the water at least 3 feet. Choose an area along the north or west shore or in a protected bay where it will be less apt to get pushed over by the ice action in the spring. More than one structure can be placed in a wetland as long as they are at least 200 yards apart. It also helps if the view from one to the other is obstructed. Nesting material should be placed in the tub by March 1 as Canada geese are early nesters. Put enough material into the tub so that it extends above the top. Geese will not always find the tub the first year--do not be discouraged. Check to make sure the tub is filled with nesting material annually and that the tub has not been pushed over by ice. Fiberglass baskets (tubs) for elevated goose nesting structures:

A major downfall of most nest structures on private land has been that maintenance generally drops off with time. This causes structures like baskets to become useless, or even worse, death traps. Culverts, however, offer ideal nesting conditions and, if properly installed, require very little maintenance after the initial installation.

Location Culverts are best suited for Type IV wetlands, followed by larger Type IIIs and sheltered areas of Type Vs. Culverts should be placed within six feet of emergent vegetation in a water depth of approximately 18 inches in the spring. One structure per 10 to 20 acres is a good goal and there should never be more than one per wetland acre. Areas with nearby trees should be avoided because they provide hunting perches for raptors and crows. Installation (Culverts of 1.5-1.8 m in height are preferable.) A culvert can be either installed in a dry wetland or through the ice. Installation in a dry wetland is much easier and less hazardous than through the ice. To install in a dry wetland, scrape a depression in the wetland bottom with a loader bucket. Using the bucket, push down and square the culvert in the depression. While installing through the ice, use good judgment as to what the ice conditions are. If ice is thick enough to support the equipment, start by cutting a hole in the ice. Cutting a hole in the middle of the circle of ice will make it easier to lift out. Once the ice is removed, push the culvert down into the mud and level it. Try to get the culvert into solid (but not frozen) bottom substrate. Filling the Culvert Culverts should be filled with soil suitable for plant growth. Rock or gravel are not acceptable fill material because they do not allow moisture to reach growing plants. The soil will settle and the culverts must be revisited to replenish the settled soil. The soil can settle as much as two feet, making it impossible for ducklings and goslings to escape. Filling the culvert with water saturated fill material may decrease the settling. Plan on revisiting the site(s) at least once and probably twice to replenish the settled soil.

Habitat/Cover Culverts grow a variety of weeds from windblown or soil-stored sources. This is generally okay, but seed such as alfalfa, sweet clover, and native grasses could be spread into the soil to improve conditions. It generally takes 1 to 2 years before cover is adequate to attract nesting waterfowl. Nesting geese usually break down nearly all residual vegetation and use it as nest material. They also destroy the vertical and horizontal cover that attracts mallards. Generally geese and mallards will not occupy the same sight unless modifications are made. A partition may be placed into a larger culvert that separates geese and mallard nesting sights. The partition can be made from cedar boards (4 cm thick) to resist rot. Covering the partition with 15 cm mesh wire will allow mallards to squeeze through the mesh if necessary. A rounded opening of approximately 15 x 20 cm will provide access to the covered quadrants of the partition. Weaving 1-2 cm diameter willow sticks through the wire mesh on the side facing the open goose nesting area will ensure that the cover for the mallard nesting sight will not be incorporated into the goose nest.

To make the cylinder, cover one-half of the fencing wire with an inch of grass and roll it into a foot diameter cylinder. Take short pieces of wire and tie the roll together in two or three areas. Use screws to attach the flange onto the center of the board. Attach the cylinder to the board with pieces of wire about five feet long, weaving the wire through the cylinder and attaching it to the board. Repeat this two or three times to make sure the cylinder is on tight. Pound the 10 foot pipe into the bottom of the wetland to make sure the pipe is stable and secure. About three feet of pipe should be left out of the water. The nest is then attached to the pipe with a flange. Installation of nests should be done in late winter when pounding the pipe into the wetland bottom and attaching the nest can be done easily. Hen houses should be placed at least 100 feet apart because hens are territorial and are intolerant of other ducks nesting in close proximity.

Feeders

General Information for Wildlife Feeders Feeding birds can provide entertainment and enjoyment for people of all ages. You can attract birds to your backyard throughout the year but the most important time to help the birds is during the winter. Cold temperatures and snow limit the food available and put extra demands on birds to keep warm. In the spring and summer, birds feed on insects which are plentiful. Feeding should be restricted to feeders and not simply thrown on the ground. Once you begin feeding during the winter, don't stop. Birds become dependent on a food source and may not locate an alternative once you stop feeding. There are a variety of seeds and foods that attract birds. The development of black oil sunflower seeds revolutionized bird feeding. It is the single favorite and most nutritious food for birds. Adding specialty foods to feeders will attract even a wider variety of birds. In the summer, for example, sugar water attracts hummingbirds. Fruit brings northern orioles, waxwings, blue jays, and thrashers. Meal worms can lure in bluebirds. In the spring and fall, thistle seed will attract the Harris' sparrow and redbreasted nuthatch. A mixture of black sunflower and thistle attracts evening grosbeaks, red polls, and pine siskens during the winter. Niger thistle attracts purple, house, and goldfinches all year long. Suet will be utilized regularly by woodpeckers, nuthatches, and chickadees. Placement of your feeder is as important as what feed you put in it. First, consider where you want to watch your birds. Is it by a window, on a glass door, or on the second story? Pick a location that is easily accessible for filling with food and out of the wind. Also consider the mess that empty and spilled seeds will cause below the feeder. Finally, keeping unwanted predators such as stray cats away from your feeder is important. Cats kill millions of songbirds annually and should be prevented from climbing near feeders. Locate your feeder at least 4-5 feet away,from overhanging tree limbs, fencing, or other structures. This practice may also prevent squirrels from climbing on the feeder. The addition of a predator guard on the support pole may also prevent unwanted visitors. If squirrels still persist at a feeder, lure them to the other side of the yard with an easily accessible tray of peanuts. Check your feeder for cleanliness if you use a tray or platform type. A dirty feeder may cause disease or discourage birds from coming. If you have trouble attracting birds, try adding a water source. Local bird populations will fluctuate, however, and birds absent for a period of time should not concern you. Added attractions to your backyard can be lured in with additional types of feeders. The barrel type feeder described is excellent for attracting deer, turkey, pheasants, and cottontail rabbits if filled with corn, sunflower, and oats. You may also attract wood ducks or other waterfowl if you are located in the appropriate area.

2-Liter Plastic Soda Bottle Bird Feeder

Large Self-Feeder

Ensure all necessary parts and tools are present. (Refer to Figure 1 and hardware list below.)

Attach two roof stops to bottom of roof using three 1&quot; screws per roof stop. Screws should be driven from top of roof (refer to Figure 3A). Attach two side rails to two end rails forming a rectangle of 1 by 2s. 1 5/8&quot; screws should be driven into side rails which overlap the end rails. Attach this rectangle of 1 by 2s to plywood floor with 1 5/8&quot; screws driven in from plywood side (see Figure 3B). This railing will hold seed on the platform. Assemble body of feeder utilizing two 2 x 12 x 12 1/2&quot; ends and two 12 x 26&quot; sides. Attach 12&quot; plywood sides to the longer (12 1/2&quot;) length of the end pieces with four 1&quot;. screws. The 1/2&quot; gap remaining at the bottom of the rectangular box will function to release seeds from the body of the feeder (refer to Figure 3C). Center body of feeder on top of floor and attach from bottom of floor with 1 5/8&quot; screws. Screws should come up through plywood and into the 2 x 12&quot; ends. Drill at least six 1/4&quot; drain holes into floor of feeder platform. Place roof assembly on the ground with roof stops facing upward. Turn body of floor assembly upside down, grasp the floor, and insert body of feeder between roof stops. (Body of feeder should fit snugly between roof stops.) Attach two hinges to one roof stop and two latch hooks to other roof stop. Attach hinges and latch hooks to body of feeder. Use 1&quot; screws to attach hinges (refer to Figure 3D). With roof latched and top of roof on the ground, center 4 x 4 post on bottom of floor and mark with pencil. Position brackets using pencil outline of 4 x 4 post. Mark and drill bracket holes through plywood and attach brackets with l&quot; x 3/16&quot; bolts, tighten. Place 4 x 4 post into position and fasten using 15/8 screws. (Disregard this step if you plan to move the feeder to its final location in two pieces.) Optional: Add a center peak structure as illustrated by the dashed line in Figure 3E. Two pieces of either 1/2&quot; plywood or pine should be cut 26&quot; long and approximately 5&quot; wide. Nail or screw together to form a 45 degree angle and fasten to the center of the floor of the feeder body. (This structure prevents old seed from accumulating in the center of the seed reservoir and increases efficiency of seed dispersal.) To erect feeder, dig a hole approximately two feet deep. Place post in hole and keep straight while occasionally packing dirt as hole is filled. IMPORTANT NOTE: Feeders must be coated with a good exterior paint for long life and weather proofing. This may be done before or after putting the feeder up. However, the portion of the post being buried should be painted unless lumber is pre-treated. Additional: Figure 2 demonstrates how to get the necessary plywood pieces to construct two large winter bird feeders from one sheet of plywood. (The cost of approximately $9 per feeder for plywood and a $6 charge per 4 x 4 post demonstrates that the material to build this feeder can be purchased for under $25.)

A simple feeder can be constructed from a 55 or 30 gallon steel barrel which can often be acquired for little or no cost. This type of feeder can be filled with any grain including black oil sunflower, corn, oats, or a mixture of grains. It serves as a ground feeder and is excellent for deer, turkeys, and other upland birds.

Instructions Find a barrel which did not contain pesticides or other toxic chemicals. The barrels most commonly available are those which contained petroleum products. Ensure any residue is washed from the inside of such barrels. Remove one end of the barrel. This will become the top end into which grain is poured. Do not attempt cutting out the end with a cutting torch as vapors within the barrel may be explosive. Instead, use a saber saw with a metal cutting blade or a large hammer and metal cutting chisel. Make a 12 inch cut lengthwise along the bottom edge of the barrel about 2 inches above the bottom base ring. The cut should be started by first drilling a 3/8 inch hole where the cut will begin. Cut 12 inches across the bottom beginning at the 3/8 inch hole with a saber saw and fine metal cutting blade. Pound in the metal above the 12 inch cut. The result should be a half-moon shaped opening that will release grain as it is taken from the small tray opening below. If the barrel did not come with a lid, cut a section of exterior plywood slightly larger than the opening in the top of the barrel. Secure this lid to the barrel using tarp straps. Eye bolts can be fastened to both the barrel and the plywood for points to hook the straps. As an alternate and more simple method, nail three small blocks of wood on the bottom side of the lid just inside the top edge of the barrel and place a brick or other heavy object on top to hold the lid in place.

Predator Guards

&quot;Predator proofing&quot; is an important aspect to consider during the construction phase of bird nest boxes or feeders. This simple step can prevent unwanted predators from destroying eggs or young in a nest box and make your feeder more attractive for wary birds. All of the predator guards shown below serve the same purpose--to keep predators such as house cats, raccoons, and snakes from scaling the support post to your nest box or feeder. Wood posts are the easiest for predators to climb because they provide a rough surface with a good grip. Metal pipes or posts are less likely to be climbed successfully. Materials to build predator guards can be made from tin, sheet metal, aluminum, or heavy plastic. A good source of cheap sheeting is often a newspaper office. Aluminum sheets are used to make the impression to print the newspaper and are recycled afterwards.

Wildlife Viewing and Photography Blinds

Viewing or photographing wildlife is made easier if you are stationary and let the wildlife come to you. It is easy to attest to that if you've ever fed birds in your back yard at a feeding station. The same approach should be used if you travel out-of-doors to view or photograph wildlife. The fact is that wildlife subjects are just that--wild, and normally won't allow you to approach closely. A little more time will be required to construct, place, and maintain a blind, but the time involved will be far less than the time spent in frustrating pursuit of wary wildlife. There are as many types and shapes of blinds as there are inventive minds who build them. The main point is that the blind be large enough to make you comfortable, made of dark canvas so light cannot penetrate, and allow your shadow to be seen, made sturdy and anchored to the ground to prevent it from blowing away, and placed in the correct habitat and camouflaged to maximize your chances of seeing wildlife. Choosing the correct habitat to place the blind is easier and more effective if you know your subjects' habitat and characteristics. Viewing deer, for instance, would require that a blind is placed near a food source where the deer is feeding in the evening, or on a trail that leads from where it feeds to a bedding area where it rets during the day. Another possibility would be a blind near a trail of rubbed trees where a buck frequents in the fall or an area where deer congregate to winter. Every species of wildlife act relatively the same from day to day or season to season and a pattern can usually be established if you do your research. Other useful tips that may enhance your success include pre-positioning a blind for some time before you plan to use it. Time for the wildlife to get used to the presence of the blind is important. The blind should also be positioned so that the prevailing winds blow from the subject to your blind and not toward the wildlife. Birds are not of concern with this issue. Movement within the blind should be minimal and loud talking prohibited. Bringing a stool or short chair will make the stay more comfortable as patience is often a virtue when sitting in a blind.

Cut 2x2 material into four 6' lengths and four 2 1/2' lengths. Miter each end with a 45° cut. Put together with wood screws and glue (for added strength) two rectangular halves each the same size. Let dry. Add 3 hinges along top edge of blind so halves will fold together like a closed book. Use a second person to hold halves open to the desired height you wish blind to maintain during use. (The desired angle would likely be close to 90 degrees.) Pick a point half way between the top and bottom of the blind. Use small screws to attach a length of chain to keep blind open in desired position. Staple canvas to frame. Make sure if canvas is attached while blind is completely open that enough slack material is left to enable folding blind back together. The canvas at end of the blind can be left loose or tightened by cutting out extra material and stapling to one side. Cut camera hole in one end only large enough for camera lens to fit through. Note: This blind is an inexpensive method of gaining concealment for taking wildlife photographs. Since you must lay flat, it is not the best choice for marshy areas where water covering the ground may be a factor. A dense foam sleeping mattress may be helpful to keep you off the ground. A sandbag or beanbag works well to steady your camera or lens. A tall person may need to start with 7' or 7 1/2' 2x2 lengths.

Cut two 4' 2x4s and two 5' 2x4s. Miter ends 90 degrees. Make base of blind with above 2x4s by joining mitered ends together. Glue and join together with 3&quot; wood screws. Use piano hinge on inside edge of blind. Attach to each 4' 2x4 one 4x4 sheet of 3/8&quot; plywood. Use 1/2&quot; screws in plywood and 3/4&quot; screws in 2x4. Both plywood pieces should be free to fold toward center of blind. Begin attaching canvas on one 5' 2x4. Drill pilot holes in lathe material with 1/16&quot; bit. Double canvas over and place lathe material over canvas. Sink 3/4&quot; screws through lathe, canvas, and into 2x4. Have assistant hold both plywood sides straight up.

Stretch canvas over entire blind and repeat above process on opposite 5' 2x4. Cutting of some excess canvas may be necessary. Secure 1x2s inside blind wedging them between plywood walls. These will be the supports that keep your blind from collapsing. For right now, you may wish to nail them temporarily for ease of working. Attach canvas on plywood by using lathe and 1/2&quot; screws. Remember doubling canvas and drilling pilot holes. Extra canvas will need to be trimmed. Use your own best judgment, however, canvas should overlap wood by at least 3&quot;. Sit in blind with desired stool to determine level you will be photographing. At this level, trace a hole (with coffee can, etc.) slightly larger than your camera lens. Drill hole with 3/8&quot; bit for a spot to start cutting. You may wish to have camera holes in the canvas also. Make flaps to cover holes by using excess canvas. Use velcro to attach flaps to cover unused windows. Note: This blind is ideal for situations where water is present since the bottom is entirely open. Wear your rubber boots or use a false floor made of a pallet, etc.