Freestone's City Grill

It was with a sense of deja vu that I joined Loring in his favorite booth, the first one on the left. Twenty years ago, in our early dating days, we often dined in the very same spot.

Now, here we were again at Freestone's City Grill, which since February has been under new ownership. Kerry Mitchell and Deborah Seguin had reclaimed the old Pequod Lounge and run the popular downtown spot for 27 years. Now, partners Jack Wetherbee and Russ Kandalaft are at the helm.

If you've always liked the ambience at Freestone's, you'll still feel at home here, because little has changed. The brass monkey still presides over the bar, and much of the same eclectic artwork graces the walls of the high-ceilinged rooms.

We arrived about 6 on an AHA! Night, and beat the crowd, which picked up considerably before we left. At first, we found the air conditioning a little too cool, but the room warmed as it filled up. A stylish drinks folder lists an array of 9-ounce designer martinis (mostly $10), which vie for attention with other cocktails and a broad selection of artisan brews and intriguing wines.

I settled on a glass of Goats Do Roam Red ($6) from South Africa, a plush blend of merlot, cabernet franc and grenache. Loring went with a pint of Blue Moon ($3.75). When I asked our server, Meg, to bring us water, she supplied only me with a glass.

The restaurant's menu has diversified under the new management, retaining a goodly number of old faves such as the Oriental turkey salad, Syrian nachos and firecracker wrap sandwich, but broadening out into Italian, Mexican and deep-fried fare, too. Loring cast a longing eye at the spinach and artichoke dip ($7.99), but I steered him toward the crab cakes with chipotle-lime sauce and dressed greens ($7.99). These were two thinnish patties, about 3 inches across, finely textured and well-seasoned, though not overtly "crabby," he said. The little dollops of creamy pink sauce proved to be potently peppery; a small heap of baby spinach leaves — without any apparent dressing — made a cooling contrast. My seafood-loving husband enjoyed this starter.

My cup of French onion soup ($3.75) was all that the classic should be: savory broth with tender onions and gooey cheese topping a round of bread. It made a satisfying beginning to supper on a cool, raw June evening.

A hankering for a steak ruled my dinner companion, and he had several options to choose from, including an 11-ounce filet mignon ($19.99), broiled sirloin tips ($12.99) and a simple 16-ounce sirloin ($16.99). He decided on Ala-Mama sirloin (listed on the menu at $13.99, but $14.49 on our bill.)

This entree features a broiled 12-ounce sirloin topped with diced tomatoes and scallions in a garlic wine sauce. The hefty cut was cooked a nice rosy medium, and was tender and flavorful, but could have been better trimmed. A gigantic baked potato (properly prepared without foil) and roasted asparagus accompanied the steak. Other vegetable choices that evening were grilled zucchini or coleslaw.

I ordered one of those "interactive" entrees, fajitas. Freestone's City Grill offers the basic variety (choose from chicken, beef or shrimp, or a combo) or the one I picked, Jack's mushroom jack fajita ($11.99). Both come with a container of steamed flour tortillas and a side dish of lettuce (romaine instead of the usual iceberg), salsa, seasoned sour cream and diced tomato. Next to arrive was the sizzling cast-iron platter heaped with strips of grilled chicken, sweet onions, mushrooms and shredded jack cheese. It's up to the diner to combine the ingredients to taste, folding them into the soft tortillas. After assembling two delicious soft tacos, I ended up finishing off the veggies and bringing home about half of the delicious meat mixture for another meal.

Entree specials last Thursday evening were scallop scampi over pasta and Cajun scrod. Fans of deep-fried seafood will be happy to find, on the regular menu, a clam and scallop platter ($16.99), fish and chips ($13.99) and fried scallops ($14.99). A happy lady dining in the booth next to us exclaimed over her "biggest lobster roll," as it's billed on the menu ($13.99), when it arrived.

A variety of tastes will be satisfied with New Orleans-style grilled meatloaf ($13.99), chicken parmesan ($12.99) and Oriental stir fry ($12.99). Youngsters can choose hot dogs, cheeseburgers, pasta, grilled cheese and more, accompanied by a drink, fries and Teddy Grahams for $4.99.

When our capable and friendly waitress Meg described the two dessert specials, we were torn about sharing, but threw caution to the wind and ordered both. The sweets turned out to be very ample portions, as she had warned us. But Loring can't resist strawberry shortcake made with a real biscuit ($5.50) any more than I can pass up homemade Boston cream pie ($5).

Loring's dessert, served in a giant goblet, proved the better choice, with a tender, truly homemade-tasting biscuit sandwiched with sweet berries and cream.

The custard filling and dark chocolate glaze of my dessert were very tasty, but the cake layers were oddly bland (perhaps lacking vanilla?). Poufs of whipped cream flanked the wedge on a cool triangular black plate.

Classic Freestone's carrot cake and mini chocolate Bundt cakes are among the other dessert choices.

When the bill arrived, it listed Toasted Head shiraz ($8), instead of the wine I had been served. After Meg corrected it, the tab came to $61.25, not counting drinks and tip.

As longtime fans of Freestone's, we're happy to see it appears to be in good hands as it closes out its third decade as a downtown landmark.

Dine Out's reviewer visits restaurants unannounced and at his or her discretion. The Standard-Times pays for the meals reviewed. The reviews merely reflect one diner's experience. Ratings range from 1 to 5 stars.