Sunday, June 2, 2013

Simple title to ward off those who only want to read about
art. This time I am delving into the fine art of finding treasures (of the
clothing kind) in the cast off world of others. There are those who would never
set foot in such venues as Goodwill, Salvation Army, Village Thrift and Aunt
Jane’s Attic but if one can score Tommy Hilfiger for 2 bucks, it is worth it.
No, I hate the whole label conscious culture, what a name brand does however is
ensure a level of quality which means one can wear the thing at least twice
before tossing it back into the sea.

A recent foray resulted in 26 items, all famous labels, for
a whopping total of just under $130…a good haul by any measure. If you are a
seasonal or trend devote, this lifestyle is not for you. Only in the high end
resale “boutiques” where the label mavens drop off their once worn, once seen
in, past season designer stuff would you perhaps find something to meet your
standards. Not me, although I did get a bargain or two in one of those places
because I can still wear the smaller sizes.That subject is coming up in further detail. But first, one must
categorize the various venues.

Genuine thrift is the best for bargains although Goodwill
has recently changed its layout and pricing methods to reflect their increasing
popularity. Only the smaller places tucked into the less than desirable
neighborhoods, and the high end boutiques, still sort by sizes. That option
takes more work on their part but suits the cliental or the quickie shopper.
Within the last year, I have had the chance to explore the VCTR culture in San
Francisco, Toronto, St. Petersburg, Bethesda, Columbus, Chicago and of course
locally, but I recommend never shopping in one’s backyard. Why? Because one may
be tempted to buy back one’s own stuff when seen on the racks, but if it must
be done, donate to one place and shop at another.Also, (true story from several years ago) I
purchased a black tie dress locally for about $20 and it turned out to have
been donated by someone who was at the event to which I wore it. Ended well for
me, not for her…..no details to that story however….sorry! Vintage (often
tacked on to the Costume category) sell by eras and are rather pricey in every
city as the trend to go retro catches on. Resale per say is the middle range
group along with consignment stores. Some consignment stores take items on loan
with a cut to the store and a cut to the donor when something is sold or they
direct purchase items from a laundry basket of offerings brought into the venue
by a hopeful closet clearer who thinks their items are worth more than most
peoples’ stuff. Those places are bit too snooty for me, they reject more than
they take from the general public but the clerk’s friends can bring by paint
splatter stuff and it all gets “bought” for their racks.I prefer the bottom feeder thrift locations where
black garbage bags of discards are unceremoniously dropped off in heaps.

The search for such venues can take one to the rather “less
than desirable” areas of town at times so never ever look like you could afford
the real thing. Dress down to just above bum level. Crappy shoes easy to slip
on and off and the same with clothing, no belts, fussy buttons etc because the
ability to change quickly to try things on is essential. Other customers
waiting to use the one or two dressing rooms can get a bit hostile. That is if
you are lucky to find a place with a dressing room although more and more
places are putting them in probably because of the laws of privacy or
something. A cross the body bag for your phone and wallet is a good idea too as
nothing ruins a good day like a snatch and grab of one’s bag or the chance of a
phone falling from a pocket and being left behind. Also, use cash in singles
and small bills as most places seem to lack singles and will often give you a
bit of discount if you can refill their drawers with one’s.

Don’t wear much make up so as to avoid getting it on
something you might want to buy, unless you are sure to be able to get it out.
Then one can bargain for a discount because the item has a “stain” on it.
Another trick for the places that keep track of how long an item has been in
the store, learn how to read the ticket. If an item has been on the racks for
at least 5 months, they will often give you half off but you have to ask,
clerks often don’t tell you the policy. Look for the original tags or things like
button bags still attached, clear plastic size labels on pant legs and so forth
which indicate an item has never worn before being donated. Do not limit
oneself to your own estimated size when choosing to try something on. Older
clothing is “bigger” in numbers. I am currently a (x) in most things, but in
vintage wear, I have to go to a 12 or a large. In current higher end labels, 2’s
or 0’s may have to come into play. It is a weird game of numbers so I stick to
the few brands I know for sure and select only those to try on unless something
is really too good to pass up. That leads to how to find something in those
jammed racks of stuff.

How a store is laid out can factor into the quality of
finds. Double racks (one over the other along a wall) and racks too close
together are not good for bargains. They do often hide some odd finds however
and are appeared geared to a younger clientele. So are stores open only a few
days a week for limited hours. I find those to be staffed by disconnected youth
selling stuff they got from friends or from other thrift places and then decided
to try silk screening them.I walk in
and get the “grandma glance” so I mention how much my daughter loves their
store and wanted to drop a few hundred for her birthday but……I can see they
were busy so maybe I will come back next week.Multiple offerings of the same item is a giveaway that something is not
right with the item, most likely a fit issue, so avoid them. Places which
create vignettes of their goods also turn me off. I don’t need to pay a few
dollars more because a belt is coiled and laid gently in a basket. Stick that
sucker on a hook with 10 more and I may get two at 50 cents each instead.

GW and SA both now rack by color and item category meaning
all the red short sleeved shirts are in one place, regardless of size and they
rainbow everything with some knowledge of the color wheel . Prints and patterns
are all placed together too. So how to find good stuff fast? The answer is the
details. Look for contrasting collars, longer sleeves (on short sleeve items, a
“cap” sleeve is often cheaper), ruffles, contrasting or metal buttons, and no
puckering of seams. Something that looks too fussy or cute is trying to hid
cheaper production quality .Patterns and color combinations are revealing as
well. Stripes are favored by higher end labels but look for them to match on
the side seams which show attention to detail. Smaller prints in all over
patterns are also a favored give-away and of course, the little logos of Polo,
Lauren, Lands End, Hilfiger, Klein and Kors that can be found in various
locations. Pants are a bit more challenging but better brands have a signature
interior waistband detail. Learn to recognize it and one can speed down a rack
in mere moments without having to pull anything out and check the length. When
pausing at those better brands, the tag inside will give a size and a length so
no need to hold up and check. If you know your fit, you can do this fast.
Dockers for a dollar can’t be beat!

Being older, I am no longer in the market for the
independent store brands such as Old N, Ab and Ftch, Banana R, and P Jack which
can all be found in large quantities because the young are fickle creatures. Know
your store brands from Macys, Saks, Dillards and the like who all have a logo
house brand of their own that show up frequently. Beware the one letter change
knock off or the font fakes which can be very similar to these brands but not
of good quality. Speed shopping may allow one or two to slip by into the basket
of potential purchases.Know the
independent labels of Lily P, Vera W, Liz, and St. Jbut do not expect to find any top products
like Chanel, Versa, Dol and G, or Vera B for example at the thrift level. Those
names go to the top boutiques or vintage stores for a hefty price. You see one
in the mid to lower range and it is likely a NY city street knock off…which
happens to just fine by me so it is a matter of what one wants.

Some people find the shoes a bit creepy and that is often
true. Good pairs can be found however without having to risk getting grossed
out. The inside of a shoe should be as new and as unworn as possible, so too
should be the sole and the heel. No stains, scuffs for gouges and one can
pretty much assume they were donated unworn. Size is again an issue, if
something looks like it might fit, try it. Also, because so many people put
things back wherever they feel like it, do not limit your search to a
designated area.Limit shoes to the
unusual as basics can be gotten at DSW for pennies when using a coupon. Purses,
belts and jewelry are avoided by me so I can’t elaborate on that unless one is
looking for a vintage piece and then only go to flea markets as the stores know
their prices.

Hmmm…what have I missed? Oh yeah, the one and done rule. The
racks get one pass and no more. If an item did not catch your eye the first
time, it is not worth it on the second run. Don’t linger over a try on, if you
have to think about how to make an item fit or fix it or think about it, then
leave it. Put it on, it looks great, good, on to the next item in your pile.
Ignore the six items only rule for dressing rooms unless being watched but if there
is no line to try things on, take as much in as you can! Just be courteous and
put the unwanted items on a discard rack, don’t leave them in the dressing room
using up precious hanger space (if one is lucky to even get a hook on the
wall).

(Anybody need a bathroom break or a coffee refill? I'll wait........)

Even if one does not find anything or is just perusing to
kill time, overheard conversations are often hilarious. Keep your head down and
your ears open and creative material will come to you! This past excursion
proved fruitful on all accounts. Buyer beware however as in the one la-de-da
boutique I did explore, a C Klein shirt was on the rack for $15.50, two stops
later, the same exact shirt was in a GW for $4. I got had as I bit on the first
one, but then made up for it with some $2 finds of Hilfiger, Talbots and Lauren
so all balanced out in the long run. In my bum mode and single dollar bill
payment method I was afraid the boutique-y creatures were going to hand me a
card for the local mission and use gloves when handing over my bag with the
shirt lovingly wrapped in tissue. No wonder it cost that much.

When I travel, thrift shopping is how I see a city. Museums
and tourist places are nice for when I have never been to city before, but they
are not how the locals live. My searches take be through the neighborhoods,
down the side streets and into the tucked away shopping centers. What is on the
racks is also revealing at times via the offering of printed T’s, college
logos, and old uniform shirts. The convention and visitors bureau will not
direct you to these locations unless part of their culture which is true in San
Francisco and Toronto so much so that they have dedicated pages in their hotel
visitors guides. Vacations are for having fun and seeing the sights, travel is
for exploring , at least in my way of tagging along on business trips, so on
that note, the next time you revisit a city…..happy hunting!!

About Me

I have been a working artist for over 35 years. My paintings have been included in shows all across the United States as well as in solo exhibitions. Visit my gallery site (www.judikrew.com) for more information and a look at some of my acrylic paintings, pastel drawings and hoard couture dresses. I have a BFA in Painting and Drawing from the University of Akron Honors Program and an MA in Art Education from Case Western Reserve University.