Local Chefs Share Secret Ingredients

BY OMAR SOMMEREYNS

The average American kitchen may contain crispy romaine hearts and bouillon cubes to make basic stocks, but will it necessarily have sheets of kelp and dehydrated bonito flakes? Unless you’re a true Eastern-cuisine buff (or have relatives in Osaka), it’s probable that those latter, somewhat recondite items aren’t crucial to your weekly grocery list; yet for others, they’re essential. Miami’s matured, global restaurant scene includes sundry Asian food options. We contacted some of our top local Asian chefs to dish on their favorite vital Eastern ingredient, where the laypersons among us can buy it, and what, exactly, we should do with it....

Jian H. Loo, chef de
cuisine at Hakkasan
Ingredient: “Ginger—the flavor is mild, but
it adds a juicy and
refreshing taste to any
dish, with a soft,
tender texture.”
Uses at the
restaurant: “We slice
or dice the ginger and
mix it with other
ingredients to enhance flavor.”
How to use it: “My favorite way is with steamed fish.
Slice the ginger and steam it with the filet of fish for
seven minutes. When the fish is cooked, add soy
sauce with boiling cooking oil (or spicy toban djan, a
chili bean sauce, like our signature dish) to serve.”

Shoyo Iida, Miami
executive sushi chef
at SushiSamba
Ingredient: “Dashi,
which is a Japanese
fish broth. It’s one of
the foundations of
Japanese cuisine.”
Uses at the
restaurant: “The dashi we make is created from
water, kombu, and bonito flakes. It’s a building block
for many dishes at SushiSamba, and we use it in
many sauces and broths.”
How to use it: “Approach it the same as you would
use vegetable, chicken, or beef stock for sauces and
such. Dashi adds the umami element to any dish.”

Kevin Cory, chef/owner
at Naoe
Ingredient: “Kombu
seaweed—it has a very
subtle touch of ocean
aroma, umami, and a mix of
crunchy, slippery textures.”
Uses at the restaurant: “To
prepare sashimi, stocks,
steamed dishes, simmered
dishes, and more. Kombu
and clean water are the
base of subtle Japanese cooking.”
How to use it: “Place it in cool, clean water and heat it
at a low temperature until it releases flavor and
aroma. Then remove the kombu and save it. Boil the
kombu water and add dried tuna shavings
(katsuobushi), and turn off the heat. Let it steep, then
strain. You’ll be left with dashi, a fish stock that can be
used for making soups and many other dishes.”

Makoto Okuwa
executive chef at
Makoto
Ingredient: “Moromi
miso, also called hishio
miso, is a popular miso
that I love to use in my
dishes. It’s made from
barley, soybean, salt,
and millet syrup, and
it’s pleasantly mellow,
sweet, and delicious, with a chunky texture.
Most is from southern Japan—specifically
islands like Kyushu.”
Uses at the restaurant: “I add this miso into
sauces, such as for our tempura grouper.”
How to use it: “Try it as a condiment to add
great flavor to fresh raw vegetables, such as
baby cucumbers, plain table rice, or go ahead
and add it to a variety of prepared dishes.”

Hou Lam Dick Fung, executive chef
at Mr Chow Miami
Ingredient: “Star
anise. It has a hard
texture, and it’s not
edible, but you mainly
use it to extract the
aroma, similar to
Chinese medicine
practices. It is widely
used in China.”
Uses at the restaurant: “We use it for
marinating, stewing, or steaming, especially in
meat dishes.”
How to use it: “It’s best for meat dishes, but opt
for only a small quantity since it has a very
distinct and fragranced flavor. It will add depth
and character to any dish.”