Description

Starts in the corner crack to the right of Allez Lou. Climb to the top of corner crack and traverse right to where there is a thin crack that takes gear from >.3-.75 BD. This section is essentially face climbing with good traditional protection. After the crack ends continue up a now bolted face through a couple harder moves to the anchor. (There are 2 bolts for the anchor but there are currently no quicklinks for rappelling, should be up soon. Climb up and left to Allez Lou for lowering or rappelling)

Location

This route shares the start of Delayed Gratification and is one of the furthest to the right on the north main wall. Right of Allez Lou.

Protection

One of each .3-.75. One #3 for down low. Three bolts on face to two bolt anchor.

Bolts are in and the route is well protected now. I downgraded the route, not as hard as I once thought it was back in the day when the upper section didn't have good protection. I will have to look in your guide again to see if it is accurate for where the climb goes but in general I think it shows it well as I remember.

Did this today, and was amazed at how little traffic it appears to get (there was no chalk other than mine and my partner's on this route). The trad section at the bottom goes at 5.9 and takes great gear. The upper section is well bolted and the crux is done with a bolt at your knees. It is a fun climb!

There are no chains at the top bolts. I left two old (but perfectly safe) carabiners on the anchor bolts. Please, either leave the carabiners or add some chains to the anchors.