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It's full size.... kindve. The body is a full size mki shell, and outside dimensions remain unchanged. Wheelbase of the vx is about 70mm shorter overall though, so there's a bit of wheel arch fudgery going on, ie slight shift and reshape of the arches. I find it hard to tell to be honest, and without a side-side comparison you can't pick it imho.

The wheelbase fudgery explains why it looked a little off to me - couldn't put my finger on it. Probably unnoticeable in the flesh.

"Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

im susprised you need to use factory wheels because it's such a cunt to certify aftermarket stuff, yet slapping a custom composite body onto a car is no biggie to get approved??

ist all about certification.

individual components have to be tested, and come with TÜV certification. wheels are naturally difficult, as theres about 1000 different offsets and widths etc, and for an aftermarket supplier to have each individual combination certified... yeah, doesnt happen. so with wheels youre best to stick with BIG brands, preferably german ones, or oem, as the certifcation is all there. getting a no-Name brand wheel certified is simply not possible for an individual.

same goes for the myriad of other "imporant" components on the car.

for the Body... ist a bit of a grey zone. firstly, theres the aerodynamic changes youre introduced. normally thuis would require windtunnel or track stability testing (at the Speeds designated by your given engine/gearbox Combo) but for the GT40 its basically already a certified road car, and can kindve just be accepted 'on spec' that its ok. secondly is the material its made from. GFK Body Panels etc are almost universally banned in Germany, as the material, epoxy, and Laminate process is too dependant on the individual. you can get parts certified, but you have to supply a Piece for destructive testing (Impact resistnace, splitter Formation/sharpness, fire retardation/burn Speed etc). luckily ive actually found a manufacturer who have a TÜV pre-approval for Body component manufacture... if you use exclusivly their materials, and lay up in the given technique (as per TÜV documentation) then the final part is assumed to be TÜV certified.

i Need to present this process to the engineer, and get his tick of approval still, but first Impression was its all good.

its all about the paperwork. if you can Support each decision with a Piece of certified paper, then itll get signed off on

Mit freundlichen Grüße

Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth

"I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

upside down, but needs some wings and a decent front splitter when you want to go fast.

I dunno - the standard GT40 shape worked pretty well for 3 of the 4 LeMans wins... :P

"Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

in the rear ear/air inlet currently sits my small oem A2A intercooler. its a tall skinny thing, with small end tanks top and bottom. that currently sits righ above where i want to put the pump, and whilst thinking 'where do i put a small reservior/filler bottle' why not use the A2A IC core thats sitting there as a reservior? bonus cooling! i dont need a huge capacity, this thing is already custom fit to size, it should flow a ton of water, and it would be a n easy enough job to cut-n-shut the end tanks to suit some 25/32mm push on barb ...

So, picking this back up again...

Having now actually looked at the A2A intercooler I've got, and how conveniently positioned it is, I'm debating whether to actually use ONLY the A2A as my heat exchanger.

If I keep it as my only heat exchanger, I can save a ton of extra piping from the rear to front of the car and back. Piping that's a) full of water and accordingly heavy, and b) introduces a big restriction to pump flow rate.

So... I had a bit of a look at cooler core designs. Water radiators generally just use a simple tube without an extrusion profile for the water path in the core. I assume this is partly a cost and simplicity thing. But decent brand oil coolers use a very intercooler-esque tube and fin profile.

I dug up this pic specifically comparing a A2A tube and fin core (top), to an oil cooler tube and fin core (bottom). Note the only difference I see is the oil core has narrower channels.

Certainly not a huge leap to say a tube and fine A2A core would function perfectly fine as a heat exchanger for a liquid

Mit freundlichen Grüße

Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth

"I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

It's actually a pretty fucking hefty chunk of intercooler. Dual row and about 100mm thick. Relative to the actual IC core, it's pretty bloody big, so I'm pretty confident* that it'll be capable of shedding heat out of the circuit. It's not an endurance racer, it'll do track days, but it's not going to be ultra abused. For road car shenanigans it'd be fine.

As mentioned, reducing the resistance of the coolant circuit to just the IC core, 2 short runs of 25mm hose, and this heat exchanger, I think I could absolutely smash it with water flow from the EWP115.

Interestingly, someone mentioned in a thread in here too, something I hadn't considered... off boost, the intake air flowing through the IC core also cools the water, so having a big IC core (which I have) also helps the recovery cooling capability

*based on nothing factual

Mit freundlichen Grüße

Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth

"I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

Let's say I put 2 big heatsinks on the peltier, the hotsde I can put into some ducted airflow, or mount a fan on, the cold side heatsink i make a small box around with hose fittings at either end, so water can flow along the heatsink fins and get the best heat transfer from water to the peltier.

Let's assume a not so ideal setup with a poorly cooled hotside, and a goal water temp of say 10degC (10 below ambient). With a 40degC temp differential, puts the heatsink at say 50degC... good for working this out. If I can make cooling on the hotside really good, the numbers get better, but for now I'll leave it at that.

At 50degC hotside and 40degC temp diff, it'll pull about 20A and pump out around 80W of heat.

Let's look at it a different way... what about just trying to get a 10degC improvement in temp, getting say from 30degC that the heat exchanger achieves, and just knocking that last 10degC down to 20degC ambient.

Let's also assume same hotside cooling, leaving only 30degC temp differential, hotside again at 50degC.

5000g * 10 C * 4.18 J/g-C = 209000 J, or 209 kJ.

The peltier element now runs at about 21A and moves 110 W, which means 110 J/s, or 0.110 kJ/s.

So to cool down 5L of water 10degC -once- were looking at 1900sec, or 31 mins

Not great, no, but not dreadful. Not convinced it's good for cooling a dynamic load situation but might have some role somewhere.

Edit... Last best case scenario...

Say the cooling of the hotside is really good, it's at 30degC (10 above ambient). And the water coming out of the heat exchanger is similarly 30degC, and I'm wanting to buffer, or improve temps within a 5degC window.

The peltier element now runs at about 25A and moves around 220 W = 220 J/s, or 0.22 kJ/s.

.22kJ/s in 5L of water... what can it do in 60sec? 13.2kJ = 0.65degC per min, or around 3degC every 5mins

Last edited by doctor ed; 22-10-16 at 07:58 AM.

Mit freundlichen Grüße

Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth

"I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

Short term goal is to get it reassembled, running and tüv'd as a vx220, and all that before the end of August *cough*
Perhaps at the very least have the engine in and the mechanicals functioning. I've got a date with a local spray booth to get the sills and b columns done sometime in the next month or so, and that'll let me reassemble things like windscreen, firewall and roll bar etc, permenantly.

Status as of yesterday... 3 months of WD and cycling butane torch, I got the rear subframe off the donor in one piece, and only two snapped bolts that needed weld-extraction. Rear suspension/wishbones etc ready to go in. I need to swap out the hubs with new skf replacements due to an ABS sensor stuff up, but then it'll be able to roll on it's own 2 wheels