Outdoor Housing Tips & Examples

It only took nearly four weeks! Here's a little photo diary of the construction...

The before pics...

The shed in pieces...

Building the shed...

There were a few problems. Some of the instructions were wrong for the size I bought. There wasn't enough roofing felt (luckily I already had a roll) and the tacks supplied were useless, so I had to buy better ones. Some of the wood was bent so I had to buy more. I'm sure there were other problems, but I can't remember now!

Painted, added a couple of windows, a cat flap, bolts and a couple of window boxes...

Inside, I made a second floor, put lino on the floor, carpet on the second floor, made a ramp and a ledge so the buns don't fall off, added a large litter tray, a couple of beds and a toy...

I think it looks awesome! Buns have gone from having 68sq feet to 80 sq feet (not including upper level) I think! I'm very proud of my painting and DIY skills!*

Outdoor Housing Tips & Examples

Like sheds they provide a large area, tend to be cheaper and available secondhand. They are pretty looking as well so reduce the unsightliness of a large building. They are taller than hutches so give plenty of height for toys and levels.

What are the disadvantages?

As with sheds they don't work so well for smaller gardens. They also tend to have less head height than sheds so can be a bit awkward for human visitors!

OK, so I want to go for a playhouse, what do I do now?

As with sheds look for something that will last. You might want to insulate to help keep it cool in summer and warm in winter. Boarding the inside stops the rabbits from chewing the edges. Many of our members have made second levels with shelves or a hutch. A low hutch with a flat roof can easily be used by putting a smaller stool next to it for a jump up or a ramp to the top. A hutch on legs can also be used by building a ramp up to the smaller doorway.

It's also a good idea to have some space outside so the rabbits can have some fresh air, runs and aviaries can be connected with a cat flap or tunnel. If there are windows in the playhouse it can be a good idea to mesh these, especially if there are a lot as the playhouse may get quite hot. You may also want to make a low down barrier that you can step over when you open the door otherwise they may run out!!

Please note that plastic and metal playhouses are not suitable as they get too hot in summer and too cold in winter.

This is a fab step by step conversion of a playhouse into a rabbit home by The Duchess

Part 1:

Originally Posted by The Duchess

Hiya.

Just in the process of converting my newest purchase on ebay and having been asked in the past about second floors etc I thought I might post a few pics. Hope they are of some use.

Starting with the skeleton

Took out the perspex and replaced it with weld mesh. The perspex can be kept and made into weather screens. Made a simple frame and added weld mesh to make an internal door that means you can leave the solid door open in good weather. Bunnies will also love being able to see out at floor level.

Put some insulation on the walls - I've found this to work a treat in my earlier version of the same wendy house. The bunnies sailed through the winter. You can use silver backed bubble wrap or Rockwool etc but in this case because of iit's sheltered location I opted for layers of regular bubble wrap. Roof is insulated with Wickes silver backed bubble wrap and works equally brillaintly in the summer or the winter.

I attached some battening to support the skin that is going to be added, plus this gives you something to attach a second floor to.

I cut a hole in the side of the wall for access to the run outside and added battening to frame it out and give strength. It also gives the bunnies something to grip onto. In addition, if they are chewers, you can easily replace attached bits, where you couldn't replace the actual sides of the shed!

Using plywood, I have skinned the whole of the wendy house out to give extra warmth. The bonus is that the little darlings can't chew the uprights or wee in the corners where you can't clean. Also, I find that fluff collects in the sides of sheds so this helps to prevent that too.

I attached an old hutch door (saving me masses of time and swearing) as the closure for the hatch into the run. This time I have attached it on the inside of the wendy house and it will swing up under the shelf and hook open. The last wendy house I did this in, I put it on the oustide but every time I needed to hook it closed I had to climb into the run to do so. Having it inside should make it much easier.

I also attached some more battening in a frame for the second floor, screwing through into the timber I added earlier - nice and sturdy.

I have added skirting board as this gives the little sweethearts something else to chew if they must, it can always be replaced. Put a piece of timber on the shelf frame and covered both it and the entire floor with lino to help cleaning out. Works a treat and saves masses of time. It also helps with insulation.

Lastly added a bit of a rim to the shelf so that things don't fall of the shelf and a little ladder.

That's as far as I have got to date - out there today making the attached run.

Part 2:

Originally Posted by The Duchess

So having had a think about litter trays and where to put them, I decided to move the ladder. I had to add more shelving to do this but I am now chuffed with the amount of space I have (or rather the buns) have got. They seem to like it too now they've moved in. Shall be doing the paving and adding their run today and tomorrow so then they'll have a load of outside play too.

Part 3:

Originally Posted by The Duchess

So now I am feeling a bit happier about my efforts as I managed to finish the run (except for the 'hardtop') today and the buns can now go outside. Except Mr Monkfish hasn't tried it yet......he doesn't like anything but carpet and is finding the paving a little worrying

It's taken longer than expected because our garden is a bit off square and I had to wangle all of my corners. Still now I can finish off doing the landscaping around them tomorrow, provided the sun doesn't shine too much......

Bunnies watching my hard work and sniggering probably!

And the new pad 'christened' by my little friend Yasmin (10) who is mad about rabbits and has two rescue buns of hers and her mums own. Mr and Mrs Monkfish seem suitably pleased.

Part 4:

Originally Posted by The Duchess

Finished the patio outside complete with bunny herb garden and have also done the flyscreens etc (after I took the pictures) so now I can relax.............not.

Well at least Mr Monkfish has actually decided to venture out into the run today so I think it's been a bit of a success......

Outdoor Housing Tips & Examples

Runs:

What are they?

A run is an enclosed meshed area for rabbits. They usually have four sides and a top. Usually they are made from panels that have a wood frame with mesh inside. There are also metal runs with metal tops and metal runs without tops.

Runs offer a ready made extension to a hutch, shed or playhouse. They are usually easy to find.

What are the disadvantages?

Runs often need extra protection added such as mesh underneath to stop a rabbit from digging out. They also don't offer shelter. They don't usually allow the owner to be able to get in with the rabbits.

Please be aware of a safety hazard with some kinds of runs as detailed in this link.

OK, so I want to go for a run, what do I do now?

Runs should be at least 8 foot long, 4 foot deep and 2 foot high. Taller runs are preferred as rabbits can easily reach 2 foot in the air binkying, some can reach 3 foot plus.

Runs should be meshed underneath, either to the bottom of the run or under turf. It is advisable to connect them to a hutch or similar so that the rabbit has a place of shelter in case of inclement weather or predators which can scare the rabbit to death. Cat flaps and runaround tunnels can be used for this. If making a run make sure to use galvanised mesh and NOT chicken wire as chicken wire can be easily bitten through by rabbits and predators alike.

If using a run without a secure lid make sure the rabbits are supervised at all times in case of a predator knocking the lid off and being able to get to the rabbits.

THIS LINK shows one method of building a run (Please note that in the photos chicken wire is used, please use galvanised mesh instead of chicken wire!)

Unscrewed all the bits and ended up with lots of long pieces of wood. Cut some of them in half to make the short sides. Mitre cut all the ends (45 degree angle) to make the panels more sturdy. Here's the 'work area' (patio ) with the bits laid out:

Cleaned off the years of algae, screwed and glued the wood into 4 frames for the sides:

Aviaries have an advantage over runs as they are taller which means they have more head height for owners. This also gives scope for adding in levels and taller toys. As they also come in panels they can be quite flexible. The panels can also be used for building a run.

What are the disadvantages?

In a small garden an aviary may feel imposing and take up space. Aviaries also cannot be moved around like runs can.

OK, so I want to go for a aviary, what do I do now?

Decide whether you want to buy a ready made aviary or panels. There are some sellers on Ebay as well as websites that sell both the panels and the built aviaries. As with runs make sure the panels are built using galvanised mesh and NOT chicken wire. The best runs use 19G mesh or better.

As with runs aviaries should be meshed underneath, either to the bottom of the run or under turf. It is advisable to connect them to a hutch or similar so that the rabbit has a place of shelter in case of inclement weather or predators which can scare the rabbit to death. Cat flaps and runaround tunnels can be used for this. It can be a good idea to create a roof over the aviary with corrugated plastic slightly raised one side to drain water away so that it does not become flooded.