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ADB1500AWW Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for ADB1500AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

This switch was not the correct one initially as it was a normally closed switch, whereas the existing switch was a normally open. Was able to pry open the switch and switch the contacts to normally open so it worked out in the end. Would recommend purchasing the complete latch assembly w/ switches if you aren't comfortable taking the switch apart.

It was very simple. After disconnecting the dishwasher, I pulled it out from it's space under the cabinet and turned it over on it's side. The pump twists into place and is held by two small bolts. It's very easy to get to and nothing else needs to be taken apart or disconnected. Used some silicon sealant to hold in place after replacing the pump and waited 24 hours to run. The pump was the problem and the dishwasher now runs fine.

A mouse had chewed on the inlet cover to the point that it would no longer stay in it's hole.

I removed the screws, and unplugged the old part, plugged in the new part and screwed it back in. It was so easy it took about 10 minutes. I surprised my husband when he came home to repair it, it was finished by me!!

After repairing this dishwasher 5 times during the past 8 years this one was real easy: Open door, unscrew inside cover and carefully move over to one side. Unplug soap dispenser, unscrew soap dispenser and remove. Fit new dispenser, reconnect it, put inner cover back in its place and secure it with the retained screws and you are back in operation. Hans.

Door leaks

Replaced the door seal. Removed the old seal and gently stretched the new seal and pushed it into the channel. Snipped off about 2 inches excess seal. As far as the Inner Door Foam Insulation Strip goes, it was not as easy. To begin with, the old Foam Strip was attached to the door insulation and not the door. The attempt to remove the old Foam Strip from the insulation became cumbersome, so I just attached the new Foam Strip on top of the old Foam Strip. So far, after a few cycles, it appears that it corrected the leak.

broken door springs

I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.

First of all I shut the power off to the dishwasher at the breaker box. Turn the water off to the dishwasher. Unhook the water line and then remove the screws that go around the outside trim edge of the dihwasher that secures it to the cabinets. Then you will want to look at the adjustable legs on the dishwasher. You may need to lower the legs to get the dishwasher out from underneath the counter top. While you are doing this you should also pay attention to your drain hose. My drain hose had plenty of slack so I was able to pull my dishwasher out from underneath the cabinet and then unhook it. You should have towels or a bucket in place to catch any water that is inside the drain hose. Next I laid the dishwasher over on its left side and I was able to access the pump. I then used a flat screw driver to remove the hose clamp and remov the drain hose from the pump. I then unplugged 1 wire connector and a bracket and could turn the pump counter clockwise and removed it from the dishwasher. There is a bracket that must be removed from the old pump to the new pump. Once this is accomplished You are ready to reinstall the new pump. I took a towel and wiped the area where the pump hooks into the dishwasher to make sure all debris was removed. I then used a very small amount of gasket sealer and placed it around the "O" Ring on the new pump. Next place the pump back in the whole and turn in a clock wise direction securing it back into the dishwasher. Hook up the drain hose and the wire connector. Make sure the bracket is postioned properly and you are ready to put dishwasher back under the counter.

Removed screws around perimeter of interior door panel. Latch was loose at this point so all I had to do is disconnect 2 wires and reattach those 2 wires to new part, position new latch in the proper place and fasten interior panel into origianl position. That was it!!!!

Broken handle/latch Dishwasher was very difficult to open.

The first thing I did was read the all of repair stories that others had submitted. Then I set the timer and chucked up the Torx bit in my electric drill/screwdriver. There are 10 Torx screws on the inside of the dishwasher door and they came out very quickly. The top two screws hold the latch in place. I lifted the inside stainless steel cover to get acces to the latch. There was enough slack in the wire that I was able to remove the latch from where it was and extend it above the door. This let me lay the stainless steel liner back onto the inside of the door without removing or disconnecting the soap dispenser. Thus exposed, disconnecting the connectors from the old latch and reconnecting them to the microswitches on the new latch was a breeze. Once connected, I reinstalled the latch assembly, repositioned the liner correctly and replaced the ten screws. The entire job, including putting my tools away and cleaning up took eight minutes. I did it on my lunch break. The eight minutes included pulling the circuit breaker and reconnecting it (very important, that step). The new latch/handle assembly completely fixed the problem.

I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.

water was dripping from the bottom of the front loading door. Over time this had seeped into the insulation foam strip and formed a solid encrustation within the foam strip.

The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

The door latch would no longer catch

First I had to go out and buy a Torx driver set, then I removed all of the Torx screws around the inside of the door panel. After that the door latch was free and I saw my problem, a broken retainer on the door latch assembly. I ordered a new door latch assembly and when it came in I removed the two electrical leads, set the new door latch assembly in place, attached the two electrical leads and reassembled the door panel with Torx screws all around. The new latch worked just like it was supposed to.

After finding out that the impeller shaft was stripped (plastic) I quickly found the correct replacement on partselect.com by using my model number.You do not have to remove the dishwasher, if you know what is wrong. But, throw the breaker switch and turn off the water! After removing the spin washer arm, Undo all of the torx screws and pull out the plastic filter looking plates along with the center plastic water jet. This jet provides water for the upper washer assembly. You may have to pop that upper assembly out to protect it from damage.The black impeller should just pull out if the plastic shaft is stripped. Otherwise, unscrew the small torx head and remove the impeller. You can remove the blade at this time and unscrew the plastic shaft by unthreading it while keeping the motor from spinning. (I shoved a screw driver underneath the dishwasher through the motor. Also the motor is just floating on the rubber gasket and can easily pulled out to accomplish this task. It's heavy and has a plug attached to it. You'll see where you can shove the screw driver. This comes in handy while installing the new shaft, because it is metal. Which is a great, long awaited upgrade for the Maytag Quiet Series. Once you find which shaft to use, (which correct inner thread, course or fine), install it with the great directions that come with the part. Putting all the stuff together is not as bad as one would think, there is only one way for it to go back together. After installation is complete, turn water and breaker switch back on. Run a cycle and listen for the washing cycle against the wall of the washer. If you cannot tell the difference, you can unscrew the white lock arm and insert it into the door. Turn it on and watch how a dishwasher works. Get ready to get a little wet. Towels!