A Working Roman Spa

By Carrie Coolidge

Thermes Sextius spa in Aix-en-Provence, France, is a step back in time to the days of the Romans, while simultaneously a relaxing and indulging experience in a modern, high-tech facility that offers the latest in therapeutic treatments.

Located in the historic city of Aix-en-Provence about a half hour drive north of Marseille, the baths were originally built in 122 BC under the Roman General Sextius; he believed the thermal waters would rejuvenate and heal the wounds of his soldiers.

The thermal waters continued to draw people throughout the centuries. Thomas Jefferson traveled to Aix from Paris during his tenure as American ambassador to France, arriving on horseback in 1787 with hopes that the thermal waters in Aix might heal his injured wrist. It is believed that Jefferson visited the baths some forty times over a period of four days. French royalty used to frequent the baths as well, including Napolean III’s wife, Empress Eugenie, during the late 19th century.

Remnants of the original baths built by Sextius are seen behind a protective glass wall by the spa’s main entrance, and the same hot water springs the Romans bathed in is used throughout the spa to this day. The sprawling 3000 square meter facility is actually a combination of two buildings— one completed in 1705 and the other during the 1990’s — and the transition from one to the other is seamless.

Credit: Carrie Coolidge

Entrance to Thermes Sextius in Aix-en-Provence, France.

The ochre-colored façade is like that of a French aristocrat’s mansion, while the interior is lined with wide marble hallways. The numerous treatment rooms are located in a series of smaller structures within a cavernous room. The main room is supported by massive marble columns that are designed to resemble the trees of a forest and brace the ceiling high above. One side of the outdoor pool is actually a wall that dates back to the 16th century, originally built to protect the city from intruders. Also on the grounds — and clearly visible while using the high-tech equipment in the cardiovascular area —is a medieval watch tower called Tower Toureluque that was built during the 15th century.

The spa’s aqua gym, which includes an indoor pool heated to 33 degrees Celsius for spinning classes on aqua bikes and a second pool for water-walking at a slightly cooler 28 degrees Celsius, was built around a portion of the same ancient wall that continues into the outdoor pool area.

The thermal water (32˚C) is still drawn from a depth of 80 meters, as the Romans did. They believed the water was healing and restorative due to its unusually high content of magnesium and calcium. There’s also a high content of lithium, which is extremely rare, according to Didier Just, Thermes Sextius’ Spa Director.

Credit: Carrie Coolidge

The outdoor pool with 16th century wall.

Although its roots are ancient, the spa is actually a modern full-service facility with state-of-the-art equipment and a highly trained staff. One of the more unique treatments is the “Anti-Aging Facial with Gold La Sultana de Saba” which is a 90-minute indulgence that involves a scrub with 23 carat gold particles followed by a honey treatment enriched with caviar extract. There’s also a work over in which the skin is exfoliated with Fleur de Sel, a hand-harvested sea salt from the Camargue. There are a full range of massages from which to choose as well, including Shiatsu, hot stone, Ayurvedic and hydromassages. Body treatments include a variety of mud wraps. Massages start at 110 Euros ($143) while facials range from 99 to 128 Euros.

A full day can easily be spent at the spa. For the reasonable price of 150 Euros, there’s a package that includes four treatments including a hydromassage bath, Fleur de Sel exfoliation, mud wrap and a massage. All treatments include full use of the wet areas as well as the exercise equipment.

One of the best features of the spa is the wet area that includes two hammams – Turkish steam rooms. One hammam is heated to 44˚C and is infused with lavender (which grows aplenty in Provence) while the other, set at 49˚C, is infused with eucalyptus oil. The spa also offers a full range of cardio machines, and classes such as Pilates and yoga. The relaxation room is breathtaking, outfitted with an enormous tropical aquarium and a water fountain.

If you are in need of a place to stay overnight, the Aquabella Hotel, adjacent to the spa, is a contemporary hotel with 110 guest rooms. Its restaurant, L’Orangerie, is available to spa guests who are able to wear robes and slippers as they dine on traditional French cuisine.

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