Voulez voodoo?

Voodoo is Benin's national religion, but instead of sinister sacrifices and dolls riddled with pins Dan White finds magnificent beaches, incredible food and friendly people. Hollywood has a lot to answer for

Voulez voodoo?

Voodoo is Benin's national religion, but instead of sinister sacrifices and dolls riddled with pins Dan White finds magnificent beaches, incredible food and friendly people. Hollywood has a lot to answer for

The first question that sprang to mind when I was asked to go to Benin was "Where is it?". Three weeks later I can tell you that it is a country roughly the size of Portugal which, along with its equally diminutive neighbour, Togo, is lodged between Ghana and Nigeria. In the Francophone world Benin has long been a popular destination. As I travel through the country I begin to form the impression that our Gallic neighbours have knowingly spent the past 30 years deliberately hiding this gem from us. Benin's remarkable culture has had a significant influence on the rest of the world. The beaches are magnificent and deserted. The food is acknowledged to be the best in French-speaking west Africa. Most interestingly of all, voodoo is the national religion.

The film industry has a lot to answer for, and the king of Allada is determined to set the record straight. According to Hollywood myth, voodoo is a suspect cult of zombies and curses. But here, voodoo is everywhere, and the countryside and villages of Benin are dotted with shrines and temples. As in Christianity, followers of voodoo believe in a single god. They also believe in an array of more approachable spirits who serve as intermediaries. This part of west Africa was formerly the slave coast of Dahomey. Millions of people were sold into slavery in the new world. They took their beliefs with them, where they took root in the form of religions such as Candombl&eacute', Macumba, Santería and Umbanda.

My first stop is the small town of Ouidah - the historic centre of Voodoo - on National Voodoo Day. As the breakers crash on to the beach the king of Allada is shouting into a microphone "Voodoo is life! Voodoo is life!". Standing beside him is a frail old man dressed in a lime green gown and a sequined top hat. He is the Grand Daagbba Hounoun - the chief voodoo priest in all west Africa. Thousands have gathered for a day of drinking, dancing and celebration. Far from the sinister Hollywood version of voodoo ritual, this is more family outing than night of the living dead. After the king's speech, the Grand Hounoun sacrifices a goat before he is whisked off back to his compound in a grubby camper van. The crowd settles down to eat. The drums start again and they dance their way into the late afternoon, fuelled by copious amounts of gin.

Although National Voodoo Day is a celebration, Ouidah has a very dark past. As I leave the beach I walk under the 'arch of no return' and make my way up the Route des Esclaves. Now, this road is just a dusty track, but for 400 years it was the road down which millions of Africans were led to slavery or death in shackles and chains. The often-propagated myth of white slavers hunting people down with nets and guns is bad enough, but the reality of the slave trade was perhaps even more chilling. Africans sold their neighbours for profit. The kingdom of Dahomey was not an empire built on sympathy. The road is lined with fetishes to remember those who were taken from their homes forever.

In the centre of Ouidah is the museum. This was originally a Portuguese slavers fort. Now it is packed with the paraphernalia of both voodoo and the slave trade. Although some of it makes for uncomfortable viewing there are also plenty of exhibits that emphasise the closeness of Beninois culture to that of Brazil and the Caribbean. Old maps, photos and engravings provide a vivid glimpse of the influence that Dahomeyan slaves had on the culture of the Americas.

Apart from Ouidah, the other important historical site in the area is the town of Abomey, three hours' drive to the north. As well as a fascinating market where hundreds of stalls sell ingredients for traditional medicine and voodoo ritual, the main attractions here are the Royal Palace and the many voodoo temples. In days gone by, the palace compound was a huge structure covering 40 hectares and housing a court of 10,000 people. Most of this was torched when the last kings fled the French invaders in the 19th century: the courtyards and ceremonial rooms where the kings' wives were housed are all that remains. It is an extraordinary place full of relics, carvings and appliqué banners depicting the bloody scenes of battle that made up so much of the history of Dahomey. Perhaps the most distinctive exhibit is the throne of King Gezo himself, which is rather daintily mounted on human skulls.

If all these relics of war and slavery become oppressive, Benin also has a lot to offer in terms of less introspective relaxation. Beaches along the whole coast are dazzling and always empty. In addition to the unspoiled sand and palm trees at Ouidah, Grand Popo, half an hour to the west, boasts the Benin's most renowned beaches. There is only one hotel, L'Auberge de Grand Popo, but it has great faded colonial charm. When swimming off any Atlantic beach in Benin, however, it is vital to be aware of the currents and undertows, which are swift and fierce.

Though tiny, Benin has had a significant impact on world history. Although the roots of that influence are tragic, the country itself remains one of the most fascinating in west Africa. The unusual culture, the beauty of the coastline and the short distances to travel make it a perfectly balanced two-week getaway.

How to get there

The only airline that flies to Benin from London is Air France. The return flight is £650 with a change in Paris and takes you to Benin's major city, Cotonou. Unlike Air France's European operation, the standards of service on the six-hour Paris to Cotonou route are truly, truly dreadful. An alternative would be to fly to Accra in Ghana on a better-managed airline such as British Airways and take the coast road through Togo to Ouidah and Abomey.

Where to stay

Hotels in Benin are not cheap. In Cotonou there is a large selection. In the smaller towns there will only be one or two. In Ouidah the best by far is The Oasis which, in addition to being safe and clean, has an excellent restaurant. In Abomey the Hotel Gbena is reasonable.

Getting Around

The standard transportation is bush taxi. These are generally battered old Peugeot 504s that will be packed to the roof with people and baggage. Often it is easier, though more expensive, to hire a bush taxi for yourself. Distances are not large. It is important to haggle hard.

Where to go and what to do

The main town, though not the capital of Benin, is Cotonou. It is worth spending at least a couple of days here. There are good places to buy traditional goods, some lively music venues and some excellent restaurants. For seaside relaxation stay in Cotonou or, if you have time, travel west for a couple of hours to Ouidah or Grand Popo. Near Cotonou are the stilted villages of Ganvie on Lac Nokue. These originally came into being as the Tofinou tribes fled the warlike Fon, whose one Achilles heel was that they refused to get wet. As a result, whole communities built their house out in villages on the lake. Ganvie is a bit of a tourist trap, and unsurprisingly the locals have don't like cameras.

Benin is the home of voodoo. It was from here that it was disseminated around the Americas. Voodoo is everywhere in Benin, but no visit to the country is complete without a visit to Ouidah and Abomey. If you are lucky you may be invited to attend a ceremony or fetish dance. These are charged and dramatic affairs.

Warning

Although Benin is generally a fairly safe country, it is important to be alert, especially at night in Cotonou. It is not unknown for thieves to pretend to be workers in your hotel. Muggings also occur, so it is wise to avoid walking in Cotonou at night.