Author
Topic: An easier frame jig (Read 7252 times)

It isn't my invention, but I built one and it works great. Need pictures, I'll post some of mine. Basicly, just notch the two long sides so a board can slide through with space left for the bar ends. It's glued and screwed at the corners. I waxed everything with Johnson's Paste Wax so glue won't stick to it.

This is pretty much what mine looks like. I also built one (after seeing a photo on mike bush's site) for doing 2 deep boxes at once.

Adamant,I've thought that you could attach a plate with screws to the outside of the box that you could use to adjust the fit of the slats...or you could just get/make slightly thicker slats.....if it is a problem.

Vince,You should never use the fence and miter slide at the same time...for this cut, it's much more important to use the miter (to keep the workpiece perpendicular and straight).

This kind of cut never feels "natural" on the table saw (with the board sticking straight up), but if you set things up properly (I'd use a substantial piece of wood as support), there is no need for the fence...just take multiple passes, moving the piece over a bit at a time.

You run the risk of binding things up (and perhaps tossing wood/fingers around the room)....be safe with your table saw...don't use the miter and the fence at the same time!

thank you.. one question..i made it today and it seems that the 2 slats that you slid in to hold the hive frame sides are little loose(sloppily) . does that make a difference?

Are they loose where they slide into the jig, or are you saying the frame ends are loose when you are assembling. If it is the first, that is not a problem. If it is the frame ends that are loose during assembly, a few strategically placed strips of masking tape can fix that.

Part of the problem is that each manufacture has slightly different specs, so there is a good chance you will fight the tight/loose battle if you buy frames from different sources.

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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison

Vince,You should never use the fence and miter slide at the same time...for this cut, it's much more important to use the miter (to keep the workpiece perpendicular and straight).

This kind of cut never feels "natural" on the table saw (with the board sticking straight up), but if you set things up properly (I'd use a substantial piece of wood as support), there is no need for the fence...just take multiple passes, moving the piece over a bit at a time.

You run the risk of binding things up (and perhaps tossing wood/fingers around the room)....be safe with your table saw...don't use the miter and the fence at the same time!

Here is how I got around the looseness of the end pieces.See pictures if I can load them. I cut a 3/4 X 1/2 inch slotat the top of the slot cut for the sliding board,and made some tapered shims to slide in after the holding boards are inserted.