Paris Fashion Week: 10 Best Looks From Dior FW17

By Pakkee Tan

4 March 2017

Maria Grazia Chiuri is settling into her role at Christian Dior and is clearly doing her homework — both in the house archives but also soaking in Parisian culture, both high and low, tony and street. Her fall runway was a study in primarily blue tones with a touch of black and a bit of white. As they would in a cross-section of Parisian life, her signature tulle confections walked alongside a ton of denim — dark, light, washed, distressed, work jackets and painter’s pants, dungarees and flight suits, all worn with pumps and leather berets. Because apparently, if it’s a beret, it must be French.

Grazia Chiuri’s inspiration came from a quote — a real one, fact-checked that you can reprint and post to Pinterest — Mr. Dior himself wrote in his book The Little Dictionary of Fashion. “Among all the colours,” he wrote, “navy blue is the only one which can ever compete with black, it has all the same qualities.” And how — is there anyone who doesn’t look good in navy? Nope. And Grazia Chiuri offered plenty of smart ways to wear it this fall, from chic, slightly oversized knits and classic French workmen’s jackets (think Bill Cunningham’s iconic look) to shirtwaists and dress shirts done up in slick taffeta and midnight velvet dresses.

The gowns were right in line with the designer’s love of froth — spangles, sequins and crystals caught up in acres of tulle. A purposeful detail meant to catch the light and emphasise subtle shine and femininity.

It’s always equally fun to see the details Grazia Chiuri adds to her pieces — the little moments meant for the wearer and those closest to her. And who better than the artisans in the Dior atelier to execute filigree embroidered moons in all their phases lined up on one belted gown or the pattern of waves the moon’s pull causes in the ruffles of the gown that immediately follows. And it all had the hallmark of transparency through which Christian Dior underwear could be seen.

What was a nice forward move here, were the more spare exits, the beautifully tailored wool and cashmere day looks cut with precision and cool minimalism. This is another facet of the French dressing: polished, refined, undeniably chic.