Son practices traditional Edomae-style sushi, favors seasonality, and ages fish when appropriate. The rice is California-grown Koshihikari grains simply seasoned with akasu (red vinegar), salt, and a hint of sugar. The rice sports a slight tang and is served at body temperature. In most cases, Son tucks fresh wasabi root between rice and fish.

During omakase, Son prefers to group sushi into trios, so guests can compare and contrast. My favorite triptych during his reasonably priced omakase starred three different silver-skinned fish. These divisive fish are generally fattier, oilier, and more pungent, and I love them. Kura’s silver-skinned fish sushi was particularly good in Son’s hands. My sushi flight involved – from right to left – sawara, Spanish mackerel with scallions and ginger; sanma, pike mackerel that Son described as “one of my hall of fame fish”; and striped ha-katsuo, skipjack tuna garnished with scallions and ginger.