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A Weekend in Venice

Venice hides a myriad of delights studded throughout its six sestieri. Here are a few of the lesser known highlights, including the very finest of Venice’s gorgeous and gilded hotels.

13 May 2019

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‘She stood in the imagination of the world, somewhere between a freak and fairy-tale.’ – Jan Morris, Venice

These longer, lighter spring days call for spontaneous weekends away. There is anywhere and everywhere in the world to visit; then there is Venice. If you have not been to La Serenissima – go. If you have been – go back. This time with the quiet confidence of some insider knowledge to ensure you absorb the shimmering uniqueness of it all, whilst dodging the tourist throng and avoiding some of the much-beaten track.

Cannaregio

But first, coffee: everyone knows the Italians’ love of coffee; particularly that of a quick, invigorating espresso to sharpen the mind and pick up the pace. If you find yourself in Venice’s Cannaregio district, follow the scent of freshly ground beans to Torrefazione Marchi, a quaint 1930s’ bar where the Marchi family import rich, dark coffee beans from all over the world.

A 10-minute walk from Torrefazione Marchi is Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Proof that Venice is a floating city of art, this Venetian masterpiece is all-at-once a museum and private luxury hotel. A former noble’s residence dating back to the 15th century, it is a testament to the Venice of old with views of Grand Canal life and the buzzing Rialto Market. It’s both a visual feast inside and out. This was where artist Lorenzo Quinn’s sculpture of two gigantic white hands emerged from the Grand Canal seemingly propping up the hotel walls during 2017’s Biennale Exhibition. Bringing attention to climate change, this issue will also be addressed during the 2019 Biennale; the 58th edition of the international art exhibition from May to November 2019 entitled ‘May You Live In Interesting Times.’

Dorsoduro

For an immensely special occasion choose an immensely special place to stay: Ca Maria Adele tucked away in the gallery-filled Dorsoduro sestiere known as the “Museum Mile” and Venice’s modern art district. Winner of Condé Nast Johansens 2019 Best for Romance Award, its seductive beauty is even more enchanting in person. Sophisticated and stylish, the hotel is a sumptuous fusion of antique grandeur and plush modern luxury. Note the design’s Eastern influence, which reflects the thriving trade of medieval Venice, and the decadence and romance of old that make this hotel an exquisite escape manifested in a 16th-century Venetian palazzo.

For somewhere to stay with a blend of both historic opulence and contemporary simplicity, check into SINA Centurion Palace situated in Dorsoduro’s less frantic quarter. The intricate neo-Gothic façade contrasts stunningly with the contemporary and clean interior design. Note the gold, aqua and terracotta colours that lend each room an exotic calm. Once settled in and perhaps post-nap, head out for authentic cicchetti (Venetian tapas) at Basegó, (meaning basil.) Here, fresh lagoon seafood, pink mortadella and mustard, gorgonzola pumpkin and walnuts, brie and orange marmalade are all piled greedily onto olive-oil-drenched, crunchy bread. You are off the beaten track here, so sit awhile and watch the bohemian world sail by – aloof locals and harried students alike – whilst sipping on a glass of sparkling Prosecco Sospeso.

As the city falls into twilight and the Bellini sunset bathes the cobbles in a rosy hue, meander towards the historical Caffé Bar Rosso in Dorsoduro’s lively Campo Santa Margherita. Sit and sip a bright orange Spritz and nibble on a famous sandwich-inspired tramezzini opposite wagons filled with emerald-coloured asparagus and plump round zucchini .

San Marco

If you are looking for somewhere a little more intimate and charming to rest your head, look no further than the late 13th-century Byzantine-styled Palazzo Selvadego in the San Marco sestiere. One of the oldest buildings in Venice, Palazzo Selvadego is just a skip away from all the significant sites: the Bridge of Sighs; the Doge’s palace; and the Basilica San Marco. Elegant rooms overlook a multitude of tottering palazzos and serene winding waterways.

Just five minutes from here is the obscure Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, an unimposing palace that houses a curious and fascinating feature: an elegant spiral staircase reminiscent of a snail’s shell (hence the word ’bovolo’). Characterised by red cotto bricks and white Istria stone, it is a rare synthesis of the Renaissance, Gothic and Venetian-Byzantine styles. Your reward after the thigh-trembling 80-step climb? An intoxicating view of Venice.

The San Marco district is also home to Venice’s new T Fondaco Dei Tedeschi luxury department store set within a sensational 16th-century Renaissance building. Rich in history and with a nostalgic nod to when Venice ruled the waves, this is Italy’s glittering answer to Harrods. In essence, this is much more than just a decadent shopping haven amongst archways and regal stairways, it is a cool oasis of space and a striking contrast from the crowded alleys outside. Don’t miss the rooftop terrace – one of the best in Venice – that makes this special place a unique and romantic retail experience.

Castello

From San Marco district’s narrow calles saunter east towards Liberia Acqua Alta buried in the Castello quarter. Regarded by many as the most beautiful bookshop in the world, look closely to see the space has been invaded by glossy gondolas and abandoned boats astonishingly stuffed with books upon books upon books. Magazines, music scores of long-lost operas, vintage comics and ancient plays are piled high and explode from every corner amongst glassy, golden, lavish chandeliers. The bookshop is a cross between a theatre, junk shop and opera house where the scent of antique paper combines with those wafting in from a nearby osteria grilling up a fantastic array of fresh fish doused with aglio and limone.

Owned and run by Vicentino Luigi Frizzo since 2004, this microcosm of the Venetian world is utterly unique and it’s said that he knows the exact whereabouts of every single title. It is a dusty, busy dream where alley cats stroll in and out freely and a large window overlooks a canal. Before you go, peep out onto the scala di libriand make sure to venture up the ‘book-steps’. Like beautifully crafted wax sculptures, the books are bound together in a damp pile of literary and architectural perfection. Once at the top you’re rewarded with a panoramic view of the quiet, Venetian backstreets and a quietly drifting canal.

San Polo

Seeking a little more independence? Then the stately Palazzo Morosini Degli Spezieri is for you, offering a selection of sleek, private apartments in the San Polo district. This stunning collection of understated apartments is situated within a 15th-century palazzo and seamlessly blends modern comfort with antique design to provide spacious rooms drenched in natural light.

The San Polo district is home to the magnificent Rialto Bridge and Market, so why not potter through the neighbourhood and browse the vibrant vegetable stalls for fresh produce or slip into a traditional tavern before returning to the hush of your temporary Venetian home.

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