Battery Anker Astro Pro2 20000mAh Multi-Voltage (5V 12V 16V 19V)
Portable Charger External Battery Power Bank
Avoid look alike batteries and the next generation model from Anker. The newer Anker
battery is only capable of delivering 1.5A from the 12V supply. Two look alike batteries
I tried did not have the auto-off feature that the Anker does.

You also need plugs and wire for interconnects. I bought some 2.5mm (CES-11-5502)
and 3.5mm (PH-44-468 for stereo, PH-44-470 for 4-conductor) audio cables with right
angle plugs and just cut them to use for the signal lines going to the KX3. I did the same
thing for the 2.5mm (PH-TC250) and 2.1mm (PH-TC210) power cables. A couple of
caveats are in order. The Phone, Key, and ACC1 interconnects require low profile
right angle connectors. The cables I listed above won’t work. Vetco part numberVUPN10338 will work. The power cables I’ve listed above use 24 gauge wire. This
is a little light, but the runs are small so I think it is OK. You can use higher gauge
cables if you can find a source.

Digikey.com
L Brackets 8 x Bracket Rt Ang Mount 4-40 Steel (612K-ND)
These L brackets are used to mount the KX3 to the panel and the panel to the case.
For mounting the KX3, I use a little piece of stick on felt on the bracket to protect the
KX3’s cabinet from damage. Replace the KX3’s screws with #4-40 Thread Size, 1/4”
Length Steel Pan Head Machine Screw, Black Oxide Finish (see below). For the panel
mounting, use #6-32 Thread Size, 3/16” Length self tapping sheet metal screw. You
may need to cut the tip off in order to not puncture the outside of the case.

RG316 BNC Male Angle to BNC Female SM Bulkhead Coaxial RF Pigtail Cable (6”)
This is not the original interconnect I used for connecting the KX3’s antenna output to
the panel. However, I think it is a better option for new designs. The caveat is that you
will need to verify the hole in the panel matches the bulkhead connector on this cable.
There will be a little loop in the cable when you are done, but that is fine.

This is optional if you want a built-in sound card interface for a waterfall display using iSDR. Make sure to eliminate the holes in the upper left corner of the panel if you are not installing. You will also need 2.5mm x 10mm screws to mount this to the bottom of the panel (see below).

In my opinion, the KX3’s noise reduction is totally ineffective for SSB communications. This external noise reducing DSP is one solution, albeit an expensive one, to that problem. It is only for SSB, not CW or digital modes. It is also available from GAP Antenna Products.

Scott: you have done a beautiful job here and have spared no expense to make a wonderfully-engineered and rugged go-box. No doubt, you’re ready to take your KX3 to the field and enjoy world-class performance on a moment’s notice.

Though I’ve never used them personally, I’ve noticed others who have taken advantage of the Front Panel Express engraving service–certainly makes for a polished and professional front panel.

Again, many thanks for not only sharing your photos, but also your bill of materials which will make it much easier for others to draw inspiration from your design!

Speaking of designs, when I looked up Scott on QRZ.com, I noticed that he also sports a QSL card (above) designed by my good friend, Jeff Murray (K1NSS). Obviously, Scott is a man with good taste!

One correction I’d like to point out. The following cable should be used to route the antenna output to the panel. I ordered the one listed in the write-up and it doesn’t allow for panel-mounting the BNC female plug. The one below is the “large bulkhead” version of the same cable and will work as intended.

In order to free up a hand, I started using an head worn microphone like those used by singers and public speakers. The one I have is the Nady HM-45U Headworn Uni-Directional Condenser Microphone. At the present time, it is available from proaudioguys.com for $40. One thing to know about this mic is that it has a wide frequency response. If you use it without equalization it will likely end up being bass heavy. I use the graphic equalizer in the KX3 to optimize it for punch.

It can plug directly into the Mic port of the KX3, but you have to turn off PTT in the menu. Another option, and the way I do it, is to get a stereo to dual mono splitter and plug the head mic into the tip input and a PTT button into the ring input. The splitter I use is the Hosa YMM-261 Stereo Breakout Cable. You can plug any PTT switch with a 3.5mm plug into the red jack but I actually plug my CW key into it. The CW key is attached to the bottom of my iPhone using Scotch Dual-Loc fastener. I can simply press the CW levers together to activate the PTT. When I want to operate CW, I unplug the the CW key from the adapter and plug it into the Key input on the KX3. If/when Elecraft enables the Key input to activate PTT, I won’t need the adapter cable any more.

So, I have the head worn mic and hold an iPhone in my left hand (for logging using Hamlog). The right hand enters the call signs and signal reports into Hamlog and also operates the PTT which is attached to the underside of the phone. This results in a pretty streamlined work flow for me.

I don’t know if the B&W case is “airtight”. Is is certainly supposed to be water proof and dust proof. I have not felt compelled to test it, but I I did I would take the radio out of it first. Hi Hi One caution is that you have to be really careful when you install the L brackets that hold the panel in place. They screw into the inside of the case. If the screws are too long, they can puncture the outside of the case (I believe the case is double walled).

The BHI Compact Noise Eliminating Module does a fine job. It is expensive, so if you can get it direct for less then go for it. I bought it at the Dayton Hamvention. One peculiarity is a takes a fraction of a second (maybe 1/2 second) to “lock on” to the noise profile of the band you are on. Until it locks on, you get the full noise. This happens each time you release the PTT (or VOX), so you get a blast of noise for 1/2 second and then it kicks in. It has to do with the particular noise reduction algorithm they are using. There are other after-market DSP noise reducers out there, but none that are as small and can run off of 2 AA batteries.

I can’t believe I forgot to mention the headphones. They are the Sennheiser PX 100-II On Ear Miniheadphone. I highly recommend them. They are open back so they let in a little outside sound, but not too much. That is a plus for me, but I just wanted to mention it in case that is a negative for you.

Scott’s planning, sourcing and execution of his go-box has inspired me to refine my SWL/DX kit. The only downside is the “noise” he may get in the field from all the people asking where he found such a cool unit!

I don’t believe the fold-up headphones were identified in the writeup; could that info and any opinions on their performance be supplied?

This is one beautiful go-box! Scott can be very proud of his design, and many thanks to him for sharing his parts list and tips.

I really like the inclusion of the BHI Ltd. noise reduction accessory. I’ve been a big fan of their noise reduction performance for years, and find that the results surpass what I’ve heard in various SDR radios and software (although I do consider Studio 1’s NR to be very good).

Readers interested in the BHI Compact In-Line NR accessory should note that purchasing through BHI’s web site is less expensive than through GAP ($226 USD incl. international shipping vs. $259 *without* shipping).

Also, the newest BHI products like this compact version have an improved NR algorithm for even greater (40 dB) maximum noise reduction.

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