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Over-the-counter acne treatment ingredients

Alpha hydroxy acid

What it is:

Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the most common alpha hydroxy acids used in skin care formulations, in creams and gels in 10% or lower strength.

What it does:

Alpha hydroxy acids chemically exfoliate the surface of the skin, improving skin texture and tone by removing dead skin cells on the skin's surface. This signals the skin to increase cell turnover, which can help existing acne lesions heal faster and can help pores from becoming clogged moving forward.1-4 The exfoliation produced by alpha hydroxy acids also helps alleviate dry, flaky skin.

Considerations:

Chemical peels in percentages higher than 10% must be administered professionally.

Mild side effects may include stinging and redness.

Because alpha hydroxy acid removes the surface layers of skin cells, the skin can become more susceptible to sunburn in the days following use.5 Be certain to protect your skin with an effective sunscreen when using alpha hydroxy acid containing products and for a week afterward.

What is does:

Benzoyl peroxide penetrates the skin where it kills P. Acnes (acne bacteria).10 Also, there is a mild drying and peeling effect which is thought to help prevent breakouts.6-9 Benzoyl peroxide also helps lessen inflammation.11-13 2.5% benzoyl peroxide is just as effective as higher concentrations with less side effects.10,14

Considerations:

Some dryness, redness, and itchiness is to be expected, especially in the first few weeks of use.10

About 1-3% of people are allergic to benzoyl peroxide and experience an inflammation of the skin or severe crusting.15

What it does:

Resorcinol helps break down hard, rough skin, which means it is good at breaking down existing blackheads and whiteheads.16-17

Considerations:

Because it is already potentially irritating, sometimes causing redness or peeling of the skin, it is good to avoid other irritating soaps and cleansers, astringents or alcohol products, and also other medications.16

Reviews:

Salicylic acid

What it is:

Salicylic acid is an ingredient used in many over-the-counter acne medications at concentrations up to 2%.18 It is often sold with pads as applicators (such as Stri-dexÂ® pads). It is also used to treat other skin disorders including dandruff, psoriasis, calluses, corns, warts, and more.19-21

What it does:

Acne is formed when skin cells inside hair follicles shed too fast and clump together, plugging up the follicle and causing a pimple. Salicylic acid helps slow down shedding of the cells inside the follicles, which may help prevent clogging. Salicylic acid also helps break down blackheads and whiteheads.20-21

Considerations:

Certain salicylic acid containing products may be irritating when used with other over-the-counter medications.20

Sulfur

What it is:

What it does:

Sulfur provides peeling and drying of the skin. Although it is effective at breaking down existing blackheads and whiteheads, it may also promote the development of new ones by increasing cell adhesion.22-23

How to wash your face

2 Use only your bare hands to wash, and wash for 10 seconds or less. Washcloths and hand-held cleansing devices are unnecessarily irritating. Consider the act of washing as simply prepping your skin for medication, nothing more. Washing itself does not clear breakouts since dirt does not cause acne, so there is absolutely no need to scrub.

3 Pat dry. Do not rub dry. Rubbing the skin is irritating, and excess irritation can perpetuate the acne cycle. Gently pat dry.