As always, thanks very much Russell. I was browsing the other threads and just realized the "The King" build thread is yours! I'll have to check that out in detail. Looks like this has been an epic build.

Hi Joseph!

Wow, that camo pattern has turned out superb! Well done!

Yes, the King and I have a long history: This is the 3rd time I've built a model of her, and yet, she's still my favorite.

As always, thanks very much Russell. I was browsing the other threads and just realized the "The King" build thread is yours! I'll have to check that out in detail. Looks like this has been an epic build.

@Si, always a pleasure to hear from you. Especially from a prolific builder like yourself. Thanks very much.

Here is a brief update. As I have mentioned before, I have missed two camouflage splotches. I'm sure it will hardly be noticeable but it screams at me. I just decided to mask and airbrush it rather than brush paint it. Here is the original.

I applied the masks and airbrushed it.

And I am satisfied with the result.

Now, I can move on. I think the next steps are either to install the "non-slip" decals on the deck or paint camo on the structures.

P.S. Looking at the last photo, I have a better appreciation of the boot. The lines look crisp thanks to the fine line masking tape.

Fellow modelers Mark, Russell and Jan, I really appreciate all your comments. What is even more fascinating is how international/global the interaction is. Thanks very much. It provides me with the drive to trudge along with this project.

I was able to make progress last night. Before anything else, just in case someone is curious, here are the masking tapes that I used: Scotch 3M Fine Line Tape and Gold Crepe Masking Tape.

I bought these from CoastAirbrush. I believe they are used in the automotive industry for applying pin stripes. I first applied the Fine Line tape above the water line. This tape was very easy to maneuver. Once I am satisfied with the position, I then apply the Gold Crepe tape which is basically a full size version of the Tamiya tape. Please note that I keep these tapes in bags so that their sides won't pick up any dusts.

I then applied Vallejo black paint.

When the black paint has dried, I started masking the actual boot. I was not able to take pictures but I'll try to explain how I got the width. Using the color guide (which I thought was the same scale as the model) and a calipher, I was able to get the width. I used the calipher's lower jaw to take measurement and then, I locked it. I transferred the measurement anchoring the top jaw to the top of the boot and then pressing lightly the bottom jaw to make "dimples". I created dimples along the bottom half of the boot. I applied the fine line tape following the dimples. The dimples are so small that I had to use an optivisor.

Once I am satisfied with the positioning of the fine line tape, I then covered the rest with the Gold Crepe tape. It is now ready for the hull red.

I used the Hull Red paint from AK Interactive's WWII US NAVY Camouflages Vol.2 Acrylic Paint Set. Here are the resulting pictures.

Thank you very much for both your comments and interest, Thomas, Mark and Si. I'm just glad I got the mojo on this project again. I tackled the most complicated part of painting this destroyer and that is the Measure 12 camouflage. To aid me in this process, I bought Gator Paint Mask (this is the same company that makes the Gator Grip glue, which I highly recommend). I bought the 1/350 USS Buchanan - MS 12 mod mask. It is available here: http://www.gatorsmask.com/ddde.html

After painting the base color of LifeColours' 5-H Haze Gray and letting it dry for about 4 hours, I applied the first set of masks.

Another 4 hours, I then applied LifeColours' 5-O Ocean Gray.

After another 4 hours (approximately), I applied the next set of masks.

And finally, I sprayed LifeColours' 5-N Navy Blue.

After letting the last paint dry for several hours, I pealed off the masks. Here are the results. As you can see, the paint guide in the instruction is about the same scale. I imagine that if I didn't have the Gator Mask, I would have used the paint guide as a template for the mask. That would have been laborious. Gator Mask made it way easy. Note: I just noticed that I am missing a couple of Ocean Gray splotches on the port side bow. I'll have to decide whether to mask or hand paint these.

There are some touch ups required, but LifeColour paints level very well that these are barely noticeable. Another effect is the obvious layering. But since these are evident only when using optivisors and also photography usually magnifies these, I am okay to leave them as is. Here is what I am talking about.

I've started with applying colors to this ship. I have two sets from Lifecolor: US Navy WWII Set 1 and US Navy WWII Set 2. According to the paint guide, I will be using Deck Blue and Haze Grey. Also, the airbrush I am using is Tamiya HG 0.2mm

This is the first time I've used Lifecolor. I have no complaints at all. With the airbrush, they cover and level up well. Also, When I performed touch ups, it behaved the same way when I applied using regular brush.

Here are the resulting pictures.

In the following pictures, take note of the inner walls, they have all been hand painted using regular paint brush. No brush marks are evident.

The touch ups on the railings look good to me.

Next steps are to paint the succeeding camo patterns. That will be quite challenging. I'm glad I have the option to hand paint where masking would be difficult.

After one and a half years, I am back. Here are some of reasons on why there has been no update. 1) I lost one small piece when I was washing the sub-assemblies. I got frustrated that I shelved this project.2) Armor modelling took over3) Photobucket

I have uploaded the pictures on to imgur and edited my previous posts.

I have primed the sub-assemblies. Here are the results.

I plan to paint the deck and install the decals. Hopefully, I can keep working on this until I complete it.

I'm in and following, looking forward to your progress, but take the time you need! I'm a pretty slow builder myself, so I know the problem...

Cheers,Jan

Hello Jan,

Thanks for your comment! This project got set aside because I worked on/still working on some 1/72 scale armor. What I've learned so far is that when working with 1/350th scale photoetched parts, the 1/72 ones are a breeze!

The last thing I did on this project was to wash it with detergent in preparation for spraying primer. This has since long been air dried. In fact, it may have accumulated some dust already. I'll have to blow them off with the airbrush before I proceed. I'm hoping to spray this weekend.