Think of Mission Cheese as a wine bar in reverse. You’ll start by ordering from the list of 60 different cheeses, then opt for a riesling with your gouda, and maybe circle back for some sharp cheddar.

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At the door, the familiar, pungent cheese fragrance greets you. Then, upon stepping inside, you’ll find that the space is appropriately cavernous with concrete walls and ceilings, reclaimed barnwood paneling, and a walnut bar with okra-colored tiles to make it inviting enough for several rounds of fromage blanc.

Mission Cheese is not a touch-and-smell setup as much as a a point-and-buy. The cheese selection is all-American, with a selection from cheesemakers from Vermont to Wisconsin to, of course, California. But on a Wednesday evening, I didn't see anyone picking up cheese to bring home. Most everyone was enjoying glasses of wine with cheese flights, pressed cheese sandwiches on Della Fattoria bread, and macaroni and cheese with bread crumbs. (Late-nighters, be forewarned that Mission Cheese closes at 8 pm.)