Seattle’s a long, long way from Tipperary, but at Mulleady’s, the Emerald Isle feels a wee bit closer. This neighborhood pub at the foot of Magnolia offers a pleasant shock to the system: Irish pub fare that’s a noticeable notch up from the usual grub.

While the shepherd’s pie (hearty and good) and corned beef (quite nuanced) were fine, the less cliched choices were best. The lamb stew was deeply satisfying, and I loved the Knockers and Colcannan, which made me feel downright nostalgic for the Irish orphan childhood I never had. The sausages were fat and fine, and the colcannan, in this case a combination of kale and mashed potato, was superb.

Next time, I think I’ll just get a big plate of colcannan and the big pot of sweet pickled vegetables–which are just right for taking the edge off fried fish and chips. This is where I spent St. Patrick’s Day this year–and most likely where I’ll be next year, too.