Front brake was rusted and got stuck under driving, would not return. So the hub barely survived, got smoking hot...It appeared the previous mechanic shop had forgotten to install 4 glider plates and retraction springs, also two distancebushings for the caliper was missing. So, in total 10 parts was missing from the previous workshop... So I installed the glider plates, l had these deep down in junk-box from a previous change where I bought both the pads and clips. Removed rust, applied rust preventing oil, copper grease, sanded the brake pads slightly, and the brakes worked sweet.Applied temporary M8 washers at caliper bolts instead of bushings. Brakes now worked sweet, no heat.

My 84 model have some issues:

Some rumbling sound. Front wheel bearing was worn so I changed it. Painful job as I forgot the spacer ring, so I had to do the job several times, without the spacer ring the bearing do not work... Also need to re-install the inner seal as I broke it. But the sound is still present, so I assume it's thedriveshafts.

What is most common, to overhaul them or to order new completely? I assume changing the shafts are very easy as you only remove the hub as with my bearings change, and simply snap them into place.

In order to get the 100% correct one, you should remove the axle and walk into a store with it. In order to get the cheapest price you should order it online. There are many variations possible between those two. Your link took me to selections for a three cylinder, that would certainly not be correct. I'd be looking here:XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

EDIT: Oh no my mistake, you said 85, I read 95. That link will not work at all. I don't think there was a four cylinder in North America before 89, you're not going to have much luck shopping here.

_________________91 Pontiac Firefly Turbo10 Suzuki Kizashi

Alcohol, Tobacco, and FirearmsShould be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency

If you are having problems with the constant velocity joints, they are a common item easily purchased in your area, including new boots for less than $15 Euros.What I am trying to say is:You remove the axle and rebuild it.There are several good threads here on how to do it.JV&S wrote one a few years back, but you would have to search to find it.Although your MK1 axle is different in length and one has a carrier bearing, the diameters are the same as our MK1s so the new boots will interchange.

Again, the axles have metal parts which are probably still good and a boot which rips over time. You can disassemble the axle, clean it, regrease it, install new inner and outer boots.Then you are good to go.

One MK1 owner swears by 'power steering fluid' as a dressing for the new boot prior to axle re-installation.I have tried his suggestion and so far he is correct.

This may not be exactly like yours, but here's a video example of how one guy does it:

Or are you having problems with the stub axle on the passenger side?If so, the carrier bearing can also be regreased and will give you many more years of trouble free service.

Those of you know unaware: his MK1 is a 4 cylinder (if I recall) with a typical stub axle on the right side to help avoid torque steer.Correct me if I am wrong.If he is talking about the passenger side, then he has this under the car:Although I don't have pictures of the process, this axle was taken apart, new boots installed, the carrier bearing greased, and the unit painted.It is ready for installation.

These half shafts are specific in their applications.As has been mentioned, the 4 cylinder didn't make its way into the North American market until the 1989 year model.The body style and suspension is different than the '84-'88 MK1, so don't expect an '89--'93 Suzuki GTi/GT axle to work.

I know how meticulous marsbar is, having read most of his threads, so him asking for a replacement axle might seem misleading.It would be nice to see pictures of your '84 and '85 as we haven't seen these rare birds lately.

You will be rebuilding those axles.Double check and see if the noise persists without the brake calipers attached.It might be a sticking pad.

Nice weather today, the rain stopped for a week, so I had a look at the car:

Front hub was removed, driveshaft removed. The most work was getting the car up on the stands and ready as they were used on a different project...

I have not removed the right one, I assume the wear is the same. Removal of this is much more time consuming as I have to loosen a bearing unit attached to the gearbox.

Inspection of the brake pad revealed the clips were missing from the last repair shop. Paid $1100 to repair the brakes last time, so forget it I am gonna do it myself this time. Also the slider clips was missing, so the brakes jammed and almost burned up. Brakes were taken apart, cleaned, clips installed and worked perfectly

Two of these rings were also missing, have used 2x3 M8 washers meanwhile. Seems like the workshop forgot to install them also

Front bearing was changed, used a pipe to force the bearing out...Also, you need to make a jig of wood in order to hammer the hub into two parts... Wear was significant, I was hoping this was the ratteling sound. R side also probably start to get worn, so I might order one moreto have in spare for a rainy day.

A slight warning here: Changing the bearing requires a workshop, puller, pipes, wood pieces etc.You might want to take the hub to a workshop instead and pay them a couple of hours. Expect to use 2-3 evenings ifyou haven't done it before, also I recommend getting help from a mechanic. There are also two gaskets you are likely todestroy, these have to be pulled out from the back inside.

A special tool is needed to press the bearing out... you cannot do it without this one! Mine was a bit big, go for a smaller one to get in.You also need to machine a piece of metal to cover the hole to have something to press against... again, you need a workshop in order tomachine tools.

Remember to install the distance ring afterwards, approx 1cm thick. I forgot and almost lost my mind...

Broke the gasket, have waited 3 weeks for it from a Suzuki Dealer. Price was more than I paid for the bearing...

Made a temporary gasket myself in order to drive the car to work, after waiting 2 weeks for the original gasket

I have measured the front LEFT driveshaft. Inspections shows slight wear 0.5-1mm on upper and lower joint when I twist it.

Problem is, I cannot fint the exact match on RockAuto. One plan would be just to order a matching L and R set not considering the length, and then re-build it using the middle shaft over again. Is this possible?

I talked to a Suzuki dealer here in Norway and he wanted $1100 for a new shaft, but he had no idea about delivery time.

If I rebuild them , I want to change all components so they are like new, L and R side.

Have never done this before, so I might have to send it abroad to get it done.

But the old ones lasted 32 years, so a good repair job will last a while

Left Shaft: Replacement copy seems to work OK. Replaced wheel bearing OK. Home made gasket OK.

Right Shaft: Replacement shaft was either to long or to short... so no good. Got them from Rock Auto, but it could be a production fault or whatever.

Solution: Female connector and boot was borrowed from the new connector and used on the old one R side to repair it.

So, back to start

I am possibly going to do a write up about drive shafts as I plan to dismantle the new ones completely how they work.Plan to take apart the new ones for future parts.

Now, the problem of the old and re-made is that the core has wrong length. So I could re-use the old core!But unfortunately, the spines in the inner core (middle shaft!) are LESS than the original ones.

Thus, overhauling the old ones using the new ones does not work

This applied to the spines closest to the engine, I have not opened the end closest to the wheel.

My thought are that if these drive shafts are "universal" for Suzuki, If I get hold of any drive shafts that's original regardless of length, as long as spines and connections are OK you can change the core for the correct length. Not sure if these are specific for Suzuki or used on NISSAN or other Japanese cars.

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