A scuba vacation will open your eyes to the bountiful treasures of the sea

Photograph by: Lorne Mallin/Special to Canwest News Service
, Special to The Sun

Twenty metres below the surface of the Celebes Sea off the east coast of Malaysian Borneo, I'm getting blasted by the ripping current. Desperately, I grasp at the loose coral littering the top of the reef wall trying to find an anchor. My husband Aaron has a slippery grip on my other hand and my two younger sisters are clutching the tips of my fins. It would be downright comical if I weren't concentrating so hard on staying put.

The four of us tenuously hang on literally by our fingernails, while our bodies are buffeted by the washing-machine current that whips around Sipadan Island's most famous dive site, the aptly named Barracuda Point. The battle is worth it. I'm staring at a huge school of those voracious predators. There are hundreds of them, astonishingly still in the rushing waters, perfectly posed so I can get a good look at their toothy grins. Then in a silvery flash, the school turns on itself and swirls into a massive ball. The barracudas swim off into the blue yonder.

Perfect timing, because I'm losing the fight. The crumbly coral slips out of my hand and we hurtle around the point into much calmer oceans and an entirely new aquatic landscape.

The late Jacques Cousteau propelled this tiny oceanic island into the spotlight in 1984 after he shot a documentary at Sipadan, describing it as "an untouched piece of art." Several resorts popped up and divers flocked here from around the world. But this underwater mecca became a victim of its own success. Four years ago, environmental concerns prompted the Malaysian government to shut down the island to all overnight stays.

However, the siren song of the sea still attracts thousands of divers to the area every year to experience what's often called the world's best diving. With a steep drop-off of 600 metres, the wall-diving is spectacular.

Turtles are the stars here and they don't disappoint. During one dive at Sipadan, there were so many giant green and hawksbill turtles, I stopped counting at 20. There were also plenty of reef sharks, moray eels, clownfish, plus the weird and wonderful, including bumphead parrotfish, ornate ghost pipefish, and pygmy seahorses.

Other divers reported swimming with hammerhead and tiger sharks, or the odd manta ray. That's the beauty of scuba diving -- you could visit the same site a dozen times and the underwater safari would never be the same.

Consider this: about three-quarters of the Earth is covered by water and an estimated 80 per cent of the world's life forms are found in the oceans. It's an ever-changing cornucopia of flora and fauna that is only on show for those who are willing to strap on an air tank.

There is a big downside to one of the world's fastest-growing recreational sports -- it can be expensive. However, if you know where to look, bargains aren't tough to find.

The most affordable diving is in Southeast Asia, which is conveniently home to the Coral Triangle, a global epicenter of biodiversity. So along with top dive sites, you get amazing dive resorts, often at half the price of what you'd pay in North America.

For example, my temporary home for five nights near Sipadan is a private thatched-roof bungalow on stilts at Kapalai Dive Resort (www.sipadan-kapalai.com). Overlooking the crystal-clear azure waters, the entire resort sits on a sandbar, so during high tide you are virtually marooned in the middle of the ocean with no land anywhere in sight. It's like something from the cover of a glossy travel magazine and it doesn't cost much more than the price of just three boat dives in the Caymans ($200/night including meals and unlimited diving).

I am not the only guest who is enthralled with this paradise. Twenty-five-year-old Benjamin Gonzalez Fernandez has been diving for more than half his life. His favourite spot was Egypt -- conveniently close to his home in Belgium -- until he arrived here. "Asia is, for me, the most attractive and affordable," raves Gonzalez. "Now I've been here, I won't go back to Egypt."

Houston dive shop owner Henry Lo agrees. He takes his clients on trips all over the world, and he says, "No question the best deals are in Asia." And there are plenty of places to choose from.

The Philippines, often skipped over by tourists too focused on Thailand and Vietnam, has several world-class dive destinations with fantastic deals on packages that include accommodations, diving and even certification. This country is a bargain-hunter's dream where you can easily find cute air-con rooms on the beach for $35/night and a delicious Filipino chicken adobo dinner for less than $2.

In Puerto Galera, a five-hour bus and ferry trek from Manila, the narrow strip of beach is lined with dive resorts and operators. The PADI Open Water course plus five nights hotel starts at less than $400 (www.puertogaleradive.com). More than two dozen dive sites are within a 20-minute boat ride.

Diving around the island of Boracay isn't as cheap (rates have jumped about 50 per cent in the past year), but it's home to the best beach in the Philippines, if not all of Southeast Asia, even making the 2007 Yahoo Travel's World's Best Beaches list (www.boracay.com). In the low season of May to October, room rates are slashed by more than half, plus you can negotiate discounts for diving packages.

Head to Palawan in the south for postcard-perfect limestone cliffs that rise dramatically from cerulean waters, but below the surface, you'll find a stark contrast. During the Second World War, A U.S. Navy strike force surprised a fleet of Japanese supply ships hiding out in Coron Bay, off the north end of the province. The stealth attack devastated the Japanese and left behind mass destruction. Now, 14 of those sunken ships make up one of the world's best wreck dive sites (www.coronwrecks.com).

It is an eerie experience hovering over the remnants of a once-proud ship that now serves as a giant tombstone for dozens of nameless sailors. When diving the Kyokuzan Maru, a 137-metre long Japanese freighter, I was surprised to see the mast still standing upright, except now it's encrusted with corals and anemones. Moorish idols and lionfish dart over the bridge, and a discarded tire has become home for dozens of small reef fish. For $100/day, dive operators in Coron can arrange two boat dives to the wrecks and accommodations.

Indonesia, the world's largest archipelago, has stats that are bound to impress -- more than 4,000 different species of marine life can be found around 13,500 islands. Though Bali has several excellent dive sites, hard-core divers head to Sulawesi (east of Borneo) for Bunaken Marine Park and Lembeh Strait. It's definitely "off the beaten path" but macro-diving is superb, with many critters you can't see anywhere else.

One of my sisters is booking her next dive trip at the Divers Lodge Lembeh, which offers truly unlimited boat dives. Recommended by a diving enthusiast colleague (who has been back twice), the best part is the high level of personalized service. A group of two can arrange for a private boat with their own dive guide, at no extra cost. The four-night all-inclusive unlimited dive and lodging package costs about $625 (www.diving-on-sulawesi.com).

More easily accessible, Thailand boasts several good dive sites, conveniently close to the famous white sands of Phuket. What could be better than a trip that combines rowdy beach parties on the "strip" with the serene silence of floating in the tropical seas? (www.divetheworldthailand.com).

The country's top dive destination is the Similan Islands, a group of nine islands scattered in the Andaman Sea about 100 km north of Phuket. The national marine park was affected by the tsunami but divers who have been there recently report minimal damage with excellent conditions. You can expect to see beautiful hard and soft coral gardens, as well as unusual rock formations made of huge granite boulders. The odd leopard shark cruises around the Similans, but for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, head further north to nearby Richelieu Rock. It's rated as one of the world's best places to dive with imposing whale sharks, the largest fish in the ocean (best time is February to April).

A liveaboard is the ideal way to get the most diving in the shortest amount of time (season is from October to May). A five-day/four-night cruise including all dives, food, and private air-conditioned ensuite cabin costs around $1,000 per person. Divers on a budget can use Khao Lak as a base and arrange daily boat trips, but keep in mind the Similans are about 90 minutes away.

Closer to home, Honduras is arguably the best bargain in the Americas and it has some of the healthiest corals in the Caribbean. Around the Bay Islands, you'll be diving the same barrier reef as in Belize, except for much less area. It's the second-largest barrier reef in the world, after the Great Barrier Reef. Utila has earned a rightful reputation as a diving backpackers' paradise. You can find seven-night all-inclusive dive packages starting at $650 and PADI Open Water certification for $250 (www.aboututila.com).

There is a little bit of everything here -- nice shallow sandy sites for beginners, deeper wall dives with rays and sharks, and even a wreck for more advanced divers. February through April, your chances of seeing a whale shark around Utila are fairly high. One of the dive centres even runs a research project studying these magnificent animals, which can grow to an astounding 12 metres in length.

But no matter where you end up, the best part about a diving vacation is it allows you to see the world in an entirely new perspective. Language barriers, lost luggage and long airport lineups have no place underwater. The serenity of floating in the deep blue depths is like nothing you've ever experienced. Trust me, once you try it, you'll be hooked too, and if you don't believe me, Jacques Cousteau summed it up best, "The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever."

IF YOU GO

GETTING STARTED

There are several excellent dive shops in the Vancouver area and to maximize your vacation time, it's best to get certified before you leave. The PADIOpen Water course ranges from $350 to $500. However, if you are budget conscious, you may want to do your certification elsewhere, combining the classroom with a bit of fun in the sun. Something to keep in mind for those with cold feet -- the waters off our coast are a chilly 8 C, compared to 28 C in tropical oceans.

FLIGHTS TO ASIA

There are many direct flights from Vancouver to major Asian hubs including Hong Kong, Singapore and Manila. From there, look for bargain airfare on one of several discount airlines, including www.airasia.com, www.cebupacific.com, or www.tigerairways.com. If you have a stopover in Hong Kong, scuba gear is at least a third cheaper than in Vancouver. Watch out for weight restrictions (scuba gear is heavy), especially on domestic flights.