44. Picos

The Nachos Jorge at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond .(Dave Rossman photo)

The Nachos Jorge at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond .(Dave Rossman photo)

Photo: Dave Rossman, For The Houston Chronicle

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The Mahi-Mahi crusted with the house spice blend at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond .(Dave Rossman photo)

The Mahi-Mahi crusted with the house spice blend at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond .(Dave Rossman photo)

Photo: Dave Rossman, For The Houston Chronicle

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The napoleon de Ceviche: Tower of lime-marinated snapper and gulf shrimp with pico de mango and avocado at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond Tuesday March 11, 2014.(Dave Rossman photo)

The napoleon de Ceviche: Tower of lime-marinated snapper and gulf shrimp with pico de mango and avocado at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond Tuesday March 11, 2014.(Dave Rossman photo)

Photo: Dave Rossman, For The Houston Chronicle

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The calamari, fish, shrimp and octopus in garlic sauce at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond Tuesday March 11, 2014.(Dave Rossman photo)

The calamari, fish, shrimp and octopus in garlic sauce at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond Tuesday March 11, 2014.(Dave Rossman photo)

Photo: Dave Rossman, For The Houston Chronicle

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The whole red snapper, pan sauteed in garlic-infused olive oil at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond Tuesday March 11, 2014.(Dave Rossman photo)

The whole red snapper, pan sauteed in garlic-infused olive oil at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond Tuesday March 11, 2014.(Dave Rossman photo)

Photo: Dave Rossman, For The Houston Chronicle

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The Pato en Dos Moles: breast of duck in Pipian sauce, duck hind quarter in mole de ciroela at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond Tuesday March 11, 2014.(Dave Rossman photo)

The Pato en Dos Moles: breast of duck in Pipian sauce, duck hind quarter in mole de ciroela at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond Tuesday March 11, 2014.(Dave Rossman photo)

3601 Kirby
832-831-9940
While it’s been around since 1984, Pico’s recently moved inside the Loop to a bustling corner on upper Kirby. The digs may be fancier, but chef Arnoldo Richards’ food hasn’t changed. Try the sautéed calamari, cochinita pibil (roast pork in banana leaves) or the colorful chiles en nogada.
[Photo: The ceviche pescador with lime-marinated fresh snapper w/onions, tomatos, serrano peppers and avocado at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant.]

Owner Arnaldo Richards at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond Tuesday March 11, 2014.(Dave Rossman photo)

Owner Arnaldo Richards at the new Pico's Mex-Mex restaurant on Kirby at Richmond Tuesday March 11, 2014.(Dave Rossman photo)

Photo: Dave Rossman, Freelance

44. Picos

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Let's cut right to the chase: Picos "The Perfect" margarita, made in a shaker and served straight up, is accurately named. It has been the best version of Houston's civic cocktail for more than 20 years. And the interior Mexican kitchen at chef-owner Arnaldo Richards' classic restaurant turns out the definitive versions of green enchiladas, cochinita pibil and Yucatecan snapper in banana leaf. Regulars wait for soft-shell crabs to come into season and for the Christmas holidays, when the magnificent Oaxaquena-style tamales are in full flower. This is the kind of place where you can take out-of-towners to give them a refined but gutsy taste of the Mexican fare that is one of this city's greatest natural resources.Must-orders: Nachos Jorge with cochinita pibil; enchiladas Suizas; huachinango Tiki-Xic in banana leaf; pork shank with purslane and salsa verde; "The Perfect" shaker margarita.Inside track: The welcoming bar is great for solo diners or anyone who wants to drop in on a whim.Cuisine: Mexican/Tex-MexEntree price: $$Where: 3601 KirbyPhone: 832-831-9940Website: picos.net