If I was riding regularly in the kind of conditions in your examples A thin fiberglass or carbon fiber pole with a flag or even better adhesive strip of 100 super bright LED lights that could strobe running the length of the pole. A simple dc-dc converter off the main battery pack. I agree in high risk conditions it would be a must do for my own safety. Not hard to overcome any safety issues. Actually summer night time riding is even safer with dual 1600lm lights on the front and another at the rear people think I am a car. All of my wheels have a glass fibber reflective tape on the sides so the bike really stands out.

Lately the bike has just been used for some short social rides and the odd trip into town to get milk . Though I do plan on doing some much longer overnight or even several day adventures as the weather is getting better so will look into upgrading the safety - visibility for that.

My plan for long distance multiple day rides is to use the boby trailer behind the trike. The trailer will hold my small hiking tent, sleeping bag, stove and generally what you would take for over night hiking trips. Although I wouldn't need any considerable food or water just snacks and a water bottle.

In the center of my rear trunk bag would have one of my old 36v 20ah lifepo4 packs and my charger. The trailer would hold my other 20ah 36v pack. I will then have more storage in the two drop down bags on the rear rack. Food can be picked up from small country downs on my way through and stored in the bags until the evening

If i program the bikes computer to limit max amps and use cruse control I consume around 8wh - km averaging 30kmh with only light - easy steady peddling. I would have around 1500wh of battery all up but like to only consume around 1200wh befor charging. That gives me a 150km range each day with all my gear. 5hrs of riding each day at 30kmh. Perhaps 2 1/2 in the morning then 2 1/2 in the evening.I don't need to do 150km each day but just what ever it took to get to the next camp. I would camp up for the night at caravan parks and pay the extra $5 for a 240v powered sight or better still get a normal non powered sight and get friendly with some one and slip them $2 to charge my bike from there plug. The bike would be ready for another 150km the next day. Opportunity charging is available in some parks, coffee shops and so on. If you ask nicely and pay a small tip to cover your 10 - 20c of electricity.

There is one guy who rode his ebike 7000km across Canada. Charging each night at motel or prearranged friends house. Over there the have mains outlest at some car parks to plug in car engine heaters so he was able to charge from them. Even the odd powered road boards.

I am going to give it a trail run on a short 50km - 100 km return ride from Maleny to Kenilworth. Just as a chance to test the bike with all the gear and record some consumption data and camp by the river over night. Might even get my wife and daughter to drive the 4wd and camper van and meet me there. I would still pack my own tent and gear just to get a feel for the packed weight.

Then if turns out good I will plan a 500km - 1000km trip in the future when I have a free week.

zzsstt wrote:The problem with a recumbant is that it can "hide" in a fairly minimal dip,.....I think the recumbant concept is great,.......- it is hidden by cars, ......... my (low) trailer that he hadn't seen left him stuck on the wrong side of the road

That would sum it up.. My greatest concern would be for when you were in front of another car, and an overtaking one (annoyed at the slow car), cuts back in over the top of you.. because they were looking forward, not down/sideways.. BIG Flags really needed, and even then - BIG risk.....

Do those hub motors offer any regenerative braking? I've not investiagted, but I'd assume they'd work as generators if wired correctly, and on long descents it would seem to be worthwhile harvesting the energy rather than heating up the brake!

Yes if its a direct drive style hub motor then regenerative braking is possible and very common. You can gain on average (rule of thumb) around 10% longer range riding on undulating terrain. Not a lot but like you mentioned most people do use it as additional braking more than to charge the battery's.

My controller has this option built in although I cant use it on my internally geared hub motor's or the previous RC motor and reduction drive. The reason being they are both freewheeling and not direct drive.

Personally I much prefer to give up the advantages of regen for the ability to peddle the bike (human power) without fighting the cogging resistance of the motors magnets. I often ride my trike as just a human powered bike and with battery removed and a freewheeling internal clutch I am at no real disadvantage other than the extra weight)( 3.8kg) of the motor and controller.This is a big advantage even when under power as its great for efficiency peddle assisting and coasting. Also if you have a issue with your motor you can get home easy with your legs. Peddling a direct drive motor not under power is like riding a bike through beach sand.

I have my old big direct drive 5304 hub motor that isn't getting used for now. I wonder if it would make a nice wind turbine generator. I tend to get more gusty wind were I am but its usually on days with rubbish PV output i can get some more steady and strong winds. Could be a fun project.

I just got a look from my wife ....(It was a Boy not another project expression)

In regards to using a electric bike hub motor into a generator below is a demonstration video of how well they might work. Hmmm its got me thinking ...oh boy not another project, seriously though its really got me thinking I should be putting that old large hub motor to better use as its just laying around.

Actually those turnigy outrunners (and their clones) make nice mid sized and simple Alternators if you don't want to swing something the size of an F&Paykel assembly up the pole and tilt it into the wind. And if you don't want to regulate the voltage and store the energy don't bother with rectification, just dump it into a cheap resistance like a toaster and make some cheap heat....

It looks to me like that price is for the full kit motor,controller,battery,charger.

I'm assuming you just want a battery and charger?

Its worth going to lithium on a ebike and you will not regret it.lifepo4 is a safe easy option for a first ebike pack.

I have had a real good run using Headway lifpo4 cells. If It was me I would go with a 36v - 16A headway bank. Most ebike 24v controllers work fine at 36v as they usually have a minimum of 60v caps. You lower the current and gain a close to 30% more top speed.