Would You Eat a Goanut?

I went on a lark to check out a gimmick and got hooked on an excellent seasonal menu at what might be London’s most underrated restaurant. What’s a goanut you ask? It’s a gourmand gateway to a fine foodie feast.

A goanut is a deep fried goat cheese doughnut paired with fruity beetroot compote, salted caramel mousse, caramelised pecan nuts and balsamic vinegar. It’s a really tasty ensemble too, and at £8.50 is pretty decently valued starter as well – especially considering the lovely views of Tower Bridge and the river from the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows. According to Head Chef Christian Rozsenich, he and his mostly Austrian kitchen crew came up with the dish as a joke but then realised it was actually very tasty. I certainly enjoyed this well composed medley of sweet and salty flavours as my starter course and am happy to recommend giving it a try.

So an invitation to sample the goanuts got me in the door at the Tower Hotel’s Brasserie – yeah, that big Brutalist hotel on the northern shore of Tower Bridge – but what had me longing to return was my main course of eight hour slow roasted pork joint with sauerkraut, walnut pudding, crackling, thyme jus and Balsamic infused mascarpone (£17). Epic! And perfect for the blustery winter-will-be-upon-us-all-too-soon evening of my visit. As I understand it the goanut and pork joint main are on the menu until January when Chef Rozsenich will turn his attentions to a new range of seasonal dishes.