Standlights - IQ Cyo vs Lyt Senso - Conclusion

So to conclude I would say that for a daytime cyclist, it is worth spending the extra on the Busch and Muller Lumotec IQ Cyo T, as its extremely bright light is piercingly visible in virtually all lighting conditions. If however you want to be kinder to motorists then opt for the less expensive Busch and Muller Lumotec Lyt Senso Plus . The "Cyo" is soo bright I can't help but feel it dazzles on coming motorists, remember this is only the standlights we are seeing here, when pedalling along both would be a lot brighter. The Cyo would chuck out around 5 times more light. Which for city riding is excessive.

Tuesday, 21 January 2014

Mighty Chainset Review - Intro

I was building a cargo bike and needed a small ringed chainset. Cheapest I could find was this Mighty Single Chainset, I chose a 33 tooth one.

Mighty Chainset Review - Build

Build wise the mighty chainset is sturdy, fairly heavy, but fine. For £15 I was expecting less than what arrived, the finish is good, and so build wise I was pleased.

Mighty Chainset Review - Fitting

In order to use one of these mighty chainsets you will need a bottom bracket with a longish axle. I have tried this mighty chainset on 2 bikes with shortish axles.

One bottom bracket was 110mm and this meant that the chainring had to be bent outwards with an ajustable spanner in order to fit. Bearing in mind this was the 33 tooth variety! This bodge would not have worked with the larger sizes.

The other bike has a 113 mm axle, and that only just fits see below. Bear in mind that the chainring as been adjusted using the bending method.

So for the 33 tooth mighty chainset I would recommend and 118mm axle length at least, and even then it would depend on you frame if it actually fits.

Monday, 20 January 2014

How to Stop Chain Rub / Noisy Chain- Intro

Chain rub is one of the most annoying noises. In a noisy city it is bad enough but when out enjoying more tranquil places such as park or country side, it can intrude on the enjoyment of your bike ride. Cycling up a hill often makes chain noise worse, due to more pressure on the drive chain, so when you are under stress pulling up a long hill, that noise . . . uuurrgghh.

How to Stop Chain Rub / Noisy Chain - Noise from the Back

The cluster of sprockets (cogs) at the rear of the bike are known as the cassette. The rear dérailleur or rear mech can be cause of many different types of chain rub. Normally this is to do with a poorly adjusted rear mech.

There are 4 different ways you can adjust a rear mech to prevent chain noise.

1 - Chain noise / chain rub can be created when the chain is sitting too low (horizontally) on the smallest cog / sprocket.

2 - Chain noise / chain rub can be created when the chain is restricted (horizontally) from sitting on the largest cog / sprocket centrally.

3 - Chain noise / chain rub can be created when Indexing with gear shifter is not working properly.

4 - Chain noise / chain rub can be created when rear mech is set too high (vertically) or too low.

All of the above shouldn't really be faffed about with individually as they all have knock on effects on one another so you should readjust the rear mech completely. Following the below instructions.

A - Whilst turning the crank arm to simulate pedaling along, shift down (using the gear shifter on handle bars) to the smallest cog.

B - Now undo the cable clamp.

C- Now adjust high limit screw so that the upper wheel of the of the rear mech (small plastic cogs) is lined up perfectly with the smallest cog on the rear cassette.

E - Now shift up (using gear shifter on handle bars) on to the second smallest cog, twist the cable adjuster until you hear the chain rubbing slightly on the 3rd smallest cog. Back off the adjuster until the rub stops, but no further.

F - You gears should no be indexed, the only thing that remains is to check the "low limit" so shift right up to big cog (sprocket) and that final lowest gear (biggest cog) should not require the gear lever to be pushed harder, nor should the rear mech push the chain past the largest cog, and in to the wheel spokes. Adjust the low limit screw until you have accomplished this.

G - Finally you may which to adjust the chain tension. Using the tension adjustment screw, the more you screw this is the tighter the chain will be, but it also means that less chain will be in contact with the sprocket which will increase wear in the long run.

This should sort out the noises from the rear in 90% of cases if the problem persists you can aslso try:

Check the drop out (the bit of the bike where the rear mech attaches to) has not become bent.

Check that the cage that holds the 2 small plastic wheels has not become twisted.

Check the small plastic wheels on the rear mech for wear (picture below).

How to Stop Chain Rub / Noisy Chain - Noise from the Front

First off I would recommend getting rid of your front mech. This may sound drastic but for 90% of users, you don't need it. 6,7,8 gears provided by the rear mech and certainly 9 and 10 gears provide enough gear range for every day use.

The problem is that even a well adjusted front mech will rub, when using certain combinations. For example using the biggest chain wheel (the cogs near the pedals), and the largest sprocket ( cogs near the rear mech), will normally cause rub, and noise.

If you would like to spend hours faffing with the indexing of the front mech then there are some instruction here. But I would just take it off, sell it on ebay, and use the money to by some food.

How to Stop Chain Rub / Noisy Chain - Noise from All over the place.

When was the last time you cleaned and oiled you chain? If its more than a couple of weeks, then a drop of oil or lube will not hurt, if its longer it may need a clean.

Chains do get squeaky when dry need oil.

Buying chain lube is a minefield, you can get squirty lubes like GT85 which is OK for light use, and certainly doesn't make much mess. Other offerings can be expensive such as various specialist lubes, which cost £6 for a tiny bottle. A wet lube last longer than a dry lube, but attracts more dirt . . . . .

If you have disc brake be careful not to get squirt oil on you brake disc! Buying drippy lube for bikes with disc brakes.

Tuesday, 14 January 2014

Setting up a Network Printer - Windows 7 - Intro

Although a wireless printer is an easy option, a wired network printer is still a good choice for those wich to share a printer with multiple users. Instead of having a PC with a USB attached printer (where the PC has to reamin powered on in order for the printer to work, a netowrk printer is always ready when you are connected to you home network.

A network printer connects to you home / work network by means of a wired connection. You will need an ethernet cable and suffieicnt length, to connect to your router, or a powerline networking set.

Setting up a Network Printer - Windows 7 - Setup

1 - Connect everything together and switch everything on. - Connect printer to router or use powerline networking set such as XAV2001 (above

2 - Next you will need to log in to your router, and serach for attached devices. This si to find the IP address of your printer.

3 - Then using you browser (firefox, internet explorer, chrome) put the IP adress (192.168.0.1 for example) in the the address bar. Do you get a web page showing your printer status? Yes. Then you are ready to install drivers. If no then you will need to check you network connections.

4 - Installing drivers is easy if you have the disk. Searhc for printer in the staert menu, then select add printer:

Next select "add a local printer" (yes this is weird).

Next create a new port, and choose Standadrd ICP/IP port

Then add in you IP address for your printer, and click next.

You will then (hopefully) be asked to install a driver, if you printer is not on the list, click "have disk" and install you own.

SO thats it. You printer will now show in you prinetrs and devices window.