exhaust fan

ok so my automatic shutter exhaust fan came in and it's bigger than i expected it to be... It's way too deep. I remember a guy posting a pic of his exhaust fan inside his custom stand in and for the life of me I can't remember his name or the thread but it was def last year. Does anyone know if you can get radiator fans running on 110v ?

I'm not sure about radiator fans running on 110 volts but radio shack carries a plug in 110 volt unit the reduces it to 12 volt. All you need to do is cut off the round plug on the end and splice the wires.Or better yet pronto tools sells this unit for $8.00. It's made for surveillance cameras.

But Dog I have to say your exhaust system is right in the top 4 or 5 most important parts of your truck. And it needs to work every day from start to finish. So make sure you get good products and not something your going to have to replace every 6 months Jack

Might be a stupid question But do they make a plug that you can wire the water pump(12v) into and then plug it in the wall and run it off 110 ? That would eliminate having a battery I have to charge every couple days since that the only 12 volt thing I have in the trailer

Yes it is LMAO same plug 12 volts is 12 volts just wire your water pump to the two screws on this adapter and plug it into any 110 volt outlet. Boom or is it Bam your good to go. LOL By the way a standard well 110 volt water pump uses almost as much power at start up as a reach in cooler. So by switching to a 12 volt pump with an adapter for 110 your cutting down your watts used a bunch.

I asked my electrician when he was wiring the trailer and he said there was no way to run the 12 volt surflow/Surpro (Can not remember the name right now and it's -30 outside and I'm not going out to look " /> ) off of a regular 110 outlet. Man if you are correct thats going to save me a big hassle. And to think he is a master certified electrician andI had to pay him the big $$$

Big $$$ huh? I should be in the truck and trailer building business. LOL Heck I could be wrong but I don't think so. I have used an adapter from Radio Shack to power all kinds of things over the years. Everything from neon lights to small pumps and to the best of my knowledge 12 volts is 12 volts. The trick is your pump is smaller and will pump less water per hour but you already know that. DC pumps use much less power and a SHURFLO 9300 Diaphragm type 12/24 Volt pump use 3.9 amps and that's nothing. They also have a safety valve that protects the pump if the water line freezes.For the price I'd try it even if the president of GE said it won't work. By the way your 12 volt pump will outlast a 120 volt by years. Good luck buddy.

Thanks got one ordered, Sorry I never doubted you, You've been right on everything else you taught me so far He charged me $1800 for a breaker Box and 7 breakers no sure what the going rate is in the lower 48

I'm not sure what it would be in the rest of the country and I'm sure things are more expensive in Alaska since everything has to be imported but he should have worn a mask. Or ask you to drop off the ransom in a trash can at third and Elm.

In Springfield you can get an entire 18 foot trailer wired including the parts for about a grand.

You know we all make mistakes that's how we learn and the neat thing about Roadfood is we get to learn together. You'll be ok your still working hard and asking the correct questions.

By the way on my step van every item will have it's own breaker so if I have a problem with something nothing else is effected.

In my trailer if I'm working on my lights for what ever reason, my cash register is also down because being a newbe I put them on the same breaker. But now I know better. So see I screwed up a bunch on my first build also.

The sad thing is he was the cheapest " /> The high quote was $2900. Thats what I did also they are all on a separate GFI breaker. The Borough inspector has been shutting down a bunch of coffee shops in town (We have about 4 on every block) for people home wiring their stands and they are working their way around the state so I got a certified ( So he said lol ) electrician so I do not have any problems. I have enough problems with other state agencies in the summer with my other business I do not want to have to deal with them in the winter Sorry wild Dog did not mean to steal your thread

Freezers Full in Alaska Let me add one other thought. Folks like you, The Wild Dog and a half dozen others on the pro thread, that really try and do your own searches for answers and are hitting the tool box trying to put together a restaurant on wheels should be greatly admired. There are thousands out there in the world that don't have the sand to put their money and ass on the line in order to do what your doing and what they only dream of. So even when you make a mistake or a bad judgement your way beyond those that just sit on the side line.

By the way I sure miss Back Alley Burger Bruce Elmore from FAYETTEVILLE, NC

i remembered the guy. His name was LocalNet aka Mike. Last I heard he was having issues with K-stones... no worries FFA we are all hear for the same reasons, I'm glad you got some good advice from a great dude. I tried searching for his threads and def do my own homework, Just know if I ask for help it's only after I've searched images via google/bing for DAYS not minutes like some ppl do on here. LOL I cherish the advice on here. I like the plug idea, i just want to hard wire my stuff. I paid 130 for the fan and shutter, I def keeping the shutter part and if I have to scrap the hella-fan I will but I'd rather make it work as is. lol I'll be posting pics soon. I just got a new camera that needs breaking in.

I just paid $498 for a meter base with meter, 50A breaker and a 30' conduit run to a box with a 50A receptical at my new spot.

Freezers-full-in-Alaska

Thanks got one ordered, Sorry I never doubted you, You've been right on everything else you taught me so far He charged me $1800 for a breaker Box and 7 breakers no sure what the going rate is in the lower 48

I did my research also,Even asked a major store in town that deals only with contractors and they did not even say anything about the plug mentioned above( Said it could not be done.) I still would not of even known about it if I did not read your post. Just to show you how much I know about electricity except it shocks the crap out of you Never had dealt with 12v before .I hard wired my first Shurflo pump and plugged it in the socket and turned it . I guess I do not need to tell you what happened That was one of my first of many expensive lessons learned.

When I built my trailer last year the electrician charged me almost $4500 to install my 100A panel in my trailer (I rough wired everything), hooked up the wire to my hood, run a meter socket with post and underground conduit (which I helped him with), and put in the grounding bar. I had a friend dig and fill the trench with his machine. As far as I am concerned I got hosed. Heck not even the bare trailer cost that much.

The only thing that made it worth it was that the building inspector gave me a hard time about the post and socket permit approval and I got pictures of the electrician doing some of the work.

yeah, they wanted to charge me $1500 for 8 outlets and a 100amp panel with 20ft of 50A. I bought everything myself and installed it for under $300 and waiting on him to come out and check my work, which will cost me $80 for him to sign off and give me the ok to run it I was like damn, am i paying your mortgage payment

Jack, The fan I have is HEAVY and I know its worth it's weight in gold. I'm going to try and stick it out and I know I will come up with something to make it work. I just have to sit and stare at it for a bit. The thing is that it's DEEP in length. I might have to disassemble the fan from the shutter and bolt the shutter to the truck and cut a big enough hole through my exhaust hood to place the fan directly to the panel of the truck and then plug it up with some firestop. I only have about 3 inches in between my wall and the panel of the truck, The measurement from the back of the fan to the end of the motor is 10" roughly, and the distance from the highest part of my filters is 10" to the back of the hood. so in my head I'm thinking that if I bolt it to the truck panel, I should have 3-4 inches to spare between the filter and the back of the fan motor. SHOULD being the key word. I'm going to disassemble it tomorrow and hold it up and see what I get and then minus the difference if I was to cut a hole and place directly on the wall of the truck, then figure out how I'm going to bolt it trhough the shutter part. You gotta love the fabrication aspect of this industry. We should have all been retired engineers with all the crap we come up with. LOL

Look at mounting the fan on the end wall (out the back) and run a duct from the end of the hood to the fan. This will keep the plenum of the hood open and easy to clean. ... From the photos you post in the other thread, there looks to be enough room to do this.

This was the problem I noted in your other thread. Is the fan still the 14" fan you gave the link to?

"You gotta love the fabrication aspect of this industry. We should have all been retired engineers with all the crap we come up with".

Boy your right on the money there. My friend Dennis is my go to guy on things like this. He has a high school education, but 35 years rebuilding and or building things from scratch experience.

I'm not sure I totally understand your problem but is it possible to allow part of your exhaust system to stick out the side of your truck 3 or 4 inches? I'm not talking about a 10 inch extension just how ever much you HAVE TO HAVE. I know states have vehicle width laws, if that's your concern, but two thoughts on that.

First your truck is short of the width that is max for any state. How much short I don't know. But the factory builds them short on width.

2nd look at the boats people are pulling from home to the lake every weekend. All the bigger boats are over the width limits, but the police ignore them. And I doubt anyone would even look twice at a food truck going down the road.

edwmax Dog, Look at mounting the fan on the end wall (out the back) and run a duct from the end of the hood to the fan. This will keep the plenum of the hood open and easy to clean. ... From the photos you post in the other thread, there looks to be enough room to do this. This was the problem I noted in your other thread. Is the fan still the 14" fan you gave the link to?

Edwmax Posted this while I wrote my reply and an excellent idea. Pictures would help everyone...... we could all stare at it and think just as you are currently doing. LOL

Also, you could remove the louvers, put the fan through the roof. Then build the transition on the end of the hood. Use a low profile dome cap to keep rain out. I'll do a sketch of that later ... if you want???

About the Aiphone 120v to 12v converter plug mentioned above. DO NOT use that for the fan, or the pump. You will probably burn down your truck. That plug is only rated for 830mA. I am sure that any fan or pump that you would hook to it uses more than that. If it doesn't burn itself out, it might burn itself down.

Find out the wattage / amps of the fan and pump and do the math to come up with wattage, and maybe use a computer power supply. PC power supplies come in sizes up to 1000 watts and even more. They put out both +-5v and +-12v. If it is less than 250 watts total you can use a power supply from any dead computer. If it is any more buy a (good brand) 500 watt or higher depending on need power supply.

Off brand computer power supplies do not put out near the rated wattage (they use max watts vs name brands like Antec using constant power watts to rate them).

If the fan and such are high draw you may want to run multiple outputs of the power supply to power it. Computer power supplies are able to send the current, but they use multiple small wires because it is spread among hard drive, system board, and video cards and other things.

Roger, I really doubt your going to start a fire but you could shorten the life on the pump or blow a breaker, or both. I didn't think about the amps end but at the price it's worth a try. But now at least if this adapter doesn't work you know the direction you need to go and you can do a search or even better call Sureflo and get there tech people involved. And no one mentioned using that adopter for an exhaust fan although there are the same type adapters out there that most likely would. The computer power supply is interesting though. That pump uses 0.7 max amps, and I'm sure as in most electrical appliances it's actually rated higher than it really uses. Here is the conversion table again. http://www.jobsite-genera...power_calculators.html

I'm just going with a 12 volt exhaust fan and bridging it to my water pump. I'm done searching my ass off for something that will probably not fit anyway. luckily they are picking the fan up tomorrow and refunding me my $. I don't have time to dilly dally... Ive sunk an ass ton of $ into this truck and paying insurance on it for 6 months for it to sit is killing me LOL. it's time for this baby to hit the streets.

the only issue i see with the low profile roof dome is that I have close to a foot between the top of my hood and the roof. I don't think there is much in between, I can probably just run short round duct work to the roof to exhaust out of the low profile. The issue I speak of would be the electric. I've never seen one without an adjustable thermostat. I would want to cut that option out if i can.

the only issue i see with the low profile roof dome is that I have close to a foot between the top of my hood and the roof. I don't think there is much in between, I can probably just run short round duct work to the roof to exhaust out of the low profile. The issue I speak of would be the electric. I've never seen one without an adjustable thermostat. I would want to cut that option out if i can.

When drawing air from the end of the hood as shown by 1st sketch, the space between the hood and roof doesn't matter. Just draw from the end and exhaust straight up. The fan you were referencing was designed to mount on the inside of the wall or ceiling. The fan plenum can be mounted against the end of the hood.

Ok ,I got an email today from Shurflo and this is what they said "We don’t recommend, but Engineering mentioned PYRAMID PS2K AC Adapter :) " Gotta love it

Sorry its early here, and I'm lost. LOL....Your thinking engineering is saying although (we don't recommend this) if we were going to do it we'd use the PYRAMID PS2K AC Adapter ? If so very cool. And you were smart to go to the horses mouth. Good Job.

thanks guys... I think I got this figured out. The gap between my hood and the ceiling is far less than a foot. Measured it the other day. I am just going to hit a home depot or lowes and buy a low profile roof vent. All of my electric is ran through pvc electrical tubing and I think i'm going to use a metal romex to run from the fan to the switch. I hate to cut a hole in my roof but seems to be the only way. I assume I will have to drill a seperate hole for the electric as well but will do a lil more research before completing it. It will be the last thing installed on the truck.

Ok ,I got an email today from Shurflo and this is what they said "We don’t recommend, but Engineering mentioned PYRAMID PS2K AC Adapter :) " Gotta love it

Sorry its early here, and I'm lost. LOL....Your thinking engineering is saying although (we don't recommend this) if we were going to do it we'd use the PYRAMID PS2K AC Adapter ? If so very cool. And you were smart to go to the horses mouth. Good Job.