The past couple of deer Ive shot with this gun Ive killed , so not complaining , just wondering if anyone else has had consistant missfires, it will misfire on the first time , then I can cock it and it will normally fire the second. It is clean when this happens, weak spring maybe

I am guessing your shooting #11 caps. Some of the Remington did, that did not go to the conversion kit. And so you have to be aware of whether or not the caps is seating all the way onto the nipple. So what is happening is the first strike seats the cap, the second one sets it off.

I started having the same problem with my Remington in 54cal. Where the problem is is in the bolt it's self.
You have to take the bolt apart/down and clean the insides out real well even to the point of polishing the striker. Never use oil or grease to lube the bolt either as the tolerences are so tight it will cause striker freeze during cold weather. Lube it with some thing like dry slide.

Yes some people did find the fireing spring a bit on the weak side they claimed. You can get a stronger spring from I believe brownnells.

I did convert the 54 to 209 primers with the Canadain Kit sold thru Cebelas. I was less than impressed with the results so my 50 cal still uses #11 caps, I use CCI magum caps with it with out a problem.

The bolt take down tool is very handy if you have a Remington rifle and nearly a must if you own a model 700 ML.

Still looking for a source for the bolt tool.
till I find it taking down the bolt can be done by following the instructions in the manual.Remington will send a new manual if you call them and you may be able to down load one off the net.

Used to have a T/C Renegade that would do that with #11 caps. Always had to press really hard to get a proper seat. Second cocking would fire the rifle. Switched to a conversion kit using standard Small Rifle primers and never had a misfire afterwards.

Also make certain the striker assembly is fully threaded into the bolt, particularly if you made a conversion to 209 primers. When I had a 700MLS I found the first time I tried to fire the 209's that I was a thread or so shy of having the striker assembly fully threaded into the bolt body. It would cock and release the firing pin, but it wouldn't go far enough to set off the primer.

If you really think it is the nipple just use some emory paper to reduce the size a bit.

But if that doesn't work clean that bolt assembly. Blow back gets up in there and corroeds which causes slow striker movement till it has been worked once. That is why it is partofthe owners manual instructipons on cleaning after use.

Also depending on the #11 cap you shoot can change a lot. For instance a RWS Dynamite Noble 1075 is a great cap without question. But on a #11 nipple, the 1075 (smaller) is a real tight fit. Some people like that because it makes it almost water proof. Others run into the same thing you're describing.

The other day I was shooting one of my Whites and it was doing that seat then fire thing. So knowing the rifle was empty, I set the cap, cocked the plunger and hit the trigger. 99% of the time it seated the cap. Then putting both safeties on, I loaded the rifle. After that, I knew the rifle was going to go of. But this is actually dangerous.

I have some CCI Magnum #11 caps that do not do this. Also I just purchased 20 tins of Winchester #11 magnum caps, so I am kind of stuck shooting them for a while. But they are a good cap.