So my overheating issue was a bad radiator cap. Got a new one today and now the gauge reads at about 3/4 to the top. I was wondering if some other DR guys can tell me what theirs reads when driving around.

Seems like you'd be better off to just hook up a gauge? Often when I've owned a JNC with a functional temp gauge, I temporarily hook up a good temp gauge for a day or so just so that I can figure out what the stock gauge is really telling me. For example, on my last 510 this trick told me that looking at the stock gauge as the needle sweeps past the letters TEMP on the gauge, T was 160, E was 170, M was 180, and P was 190.

I am going to get a new set of thermo switches and do change out the radiator fluid with new stuff and see how it runs. The water in it right now is a bit rusty looking. Then I may add a gauge if I am still worried.

Try PMing bhhamblin he has the GTIR ecu on his DR30. Please post up any info you find out, I have been casually looking around the webs for info but haven't come across any. I do see the whole used "kits" ( ecu, maf, and ignition coil/ coilpacks) on Yahoo auctions every once in a while.

gtir ecu req jumper harness yoU used to be able to find on yahoo auctions...requires some changes specificaaly the air flow meter and some wiring i beleive ,,the sr20det ecu requires harness change modified cas to dist setup...again search yahoo auctions have seen the modified cam sensor for fj20 or get ahold of notajncr on here he has a super charged and turbo charged fj20et in his garaGE ALONG WITH A MODIIFED CAS FOR FJ..

So I had to take the car in to get fixed. It was running bad when off boost but great on boost. Also i wanted to have it looked at cause the dash lights would glow all the time.

So my mechanic said it was still running rich and leaned it out a bit more. It now runs great off boost and better on boost. Also the kick when it gets onto boost isn't as bad now. It is a nicer transition but still pulls like mad. I did notice one thing funny. It nos boosts higher than what I dropped it off. I think I was at .4 bar and now it is at .75. Can a simple tune up do this???? I have never owned a turbo car so this is new to me.

Onto the dash lights. So all the warning lights on the dash would get brighter as the car revved up. I laid many Internet searches and most all said it was a alternator. So I had my guy check it out. Sure enought it was putting out 0 volts at idle and 20 volts when revved up. So the regulator was gone. He put on a new alternator and bam no more dash lights.

So now the car is running great and I will be driving it as much as I can. We will see what happens next. I think I need to get it on a dyno to see where my air/fuel mix is at.

Took the car out this weekend for some canyon driving. Had to put some miles on the new plugs. The car ran better but still has some issue. It also ran very hot and I had the big fan on the whole time. I think I need to get the radiator a recore and then see how the temps are. I stopped along the way to let it cool down and snapped some photos.

Got the new AFM installed yesterday and the car runs like a champ now. The boost went up just form that change. So I will be bring it down a little. I think it is at .7 bar now and I want to get it back to like .5 bar.

DomKDR I have read that a bunch but think I am going to go with a JWT set up instead. It will be a while away thou since the car is running so good now.