The things I take for granted

by James on August 5, 2014

It’s a common sight on my way to and from work: wide-eyed visitors toting cameras around their necks, and backpackers who stop to capture the busy street scenes with their smartphones. I often turn around, surprised to see their attraction to a grimy world of exhaust fumes, dripping air conditioners and ageing metal pushcarts, combining to form a less than photogenic whole.

But once in a while the haze clears, enough to admire this hyperactive city from a distance. Just last week I met up with Alex from travelwithoutborders; our mission was to reach a viewpoint not covered in the guidebooks, known only to local hikers and photographers. For me, there was also a deep personal connection with the area, for the trailhead lies just steps away from the school I attended for 14 years.

In those days we sometimes went cross-country running, turning off the main road down an unmarked concrete path, up a wide set of stairs and along a dirt trail carved along the dry hillside. Checkpoint One was a small pavilion, beside a bridge crossing over a slender waterfall; Checkpoint Two a sizeable boulder spray-painted with its eponymous number. Both were to the left of a junction at the top of the stairs, but this time Alex and I were headed the opposite way, down a route I rarely took.

Soon the view opened up between the foliage, and we scrambled up the slope into a bald patch amid the long grass. Below us the roar of the city was clearly audible, occasionally amplified by the booming horns of ships in the harbour. To our backs the birds and insects – in close quarters but often out of sight – brought balance to an otherwise man-made cacophony. We waited as the sun dipped lower and lower toward the horizon, its golden orb turning a deep, Japanese red.

This expansive view of the impossible city, hemmed in by mountains and graced by the arms of the sea, was one I grew up taking for granted. Throughout my school years I had witnessed the skyline grow and evolve, clusters of high-rises across the harbour sprouting like bamboo shoots after the airport was moved away. I remember a time when only the Peninsula Hotel – with its twin helipads – rose above the 13-storey height limit imposed over much of Kowloon; today the hotel tower is dwarfed by many of its newer neighbours.

We continued to wait in the grass, wiping the sweat from our brows in between shots. Then Alex uttered the one word that spoke to our shared sense of wonder as the clouds turned crimson and violet while a multitude of lights flickered on below. “Beautiful,” he said. ◊

Lovely post James. I wish we’d known you when we were briefly in HK a few years ago. I’d love to do that hike. We sometimes fly the Pacific with Cathay which always involves a stop in HK. Will be sure to connect with you if we do it again.
Beautiful photos!
Alison

Thanks as always, Alison. I would be more than happy to give you and Don a few pointers the next time you’re here – and even take you on that hike if work allows! Feel free to drop me an email if you do end up booking flights on Cathay.
James

My friends live in Mid Levels on Kennedy Rd and they have amazing views of the harbour. I love my visits with them and love to stand at their huge windows to admire the view. I will be back in November.

Thank you for the lovely verbal and visual postcard from Hong Kong! It has been a number of years since we were last there. The post helped remind us of many reasons why enjoyed our visits there. They also remind us of the need to bring our daughter to this special, vibrant city!

Sometimes we don’t need to look far to see how beautiful the world is. What a nice afternoon to go there with Alex as the weather look really nice! This is a series of pictures of HK skyline less known to the world. Really beautiful photos, James!

I wish I have met someone like you to show me that spot when I was in Hk last March,
I know exactly what you’re talking about, growing up in Morocco, I never paid attention to how unique my environment was until I moved to Canada and travelled around Asia the last 6 months.

Having a local connection makes a huge difference – my best friend lives in Indonesia and he’s taught me so much about his country.

Actually Morocco is right at the top of my wishlist… I fell in love with the cuisine while at college (bestilla and lamb tagine are two of my all-time favourite dishes), and I would love to explore Fes and Marrakesh!