Hi guys, new here. Just got myself an RSV mille 1999 model. It's leaking fuel from the vent hoses which drain to the right of the bike near the exhaust collector. I hear I'd replace the in tank breather hoses?

What parts do I need for it apart from the hose? Anything in particular I need to look out for while taking the tank off?

Thanks for the reply guys. I had called aprilia performance but couldn't get any help. The guy on the other side of the phone said he can't advice on technical matters. Anyways I ordered stuff from them and have managed to get the bike up and running but there are some otehrissues I have run into-

1) I had ordered the 0.4 clutch jet to improve clutch action and finding neutral but couldn't get the old jet out.What do you guys suggest to get it out? I tried the cocktail stick trick members have mentioned here but didn't work. Guess that might work AFTER the jet has been unscrewed which I couldn't. Can you guys point me to a proper sized screwdriver? Or taking the new jet out to stores and buying a precise fitting flat blade screwdriver my only option?

2)I changed oil and spark plugs as well. Haynes says the oil strainer should be cleaned every 2 oil changes. However looking at the strainer the big hex nut end is sheared and I couldn't get it out. Looking at the new part, I see they are on backorder. Do you guys think it's worth it placing the order and potentially wait forever for the new part to come in or cleaning the strainer is no big deal?

3)I went for the side stand upgrade as well. The fireblade stand was on backorder and really didn't want to spend £90 on it, so got the blackbird stand off ebay and it fit nicely. The stand switch has already been disconnected by the PO so that's not a problem, however while putting the lower fairing out, I see that the stand, being longer, doesn't slide into the recess in the fairing. I went for the blackbird stand as members here and other ape forums had said it could be done(although that could have been for the Tuono where there is no fairing). Has someone fitted the blackbird stand on an early mille?

The oil jet can be pretty tight. once the screwdriver slots are chewed it's worse to get out. You have to get more brutal with it but you have to then succeed as it damages the jet.

I got a cross head screwdriver that was just bigger than the jet hole and tapped it into the jet (it's only soft brass) until it was firmly wedged into the jet. And then it undid easily. Last chance saloon would be to drill it and then run a tap in there to clear the threads.

did you mean that the big hex nut is rounded off and not sheared, I took mine out at 16 k and it was as clean as the day it was made. Check if it's got the original hose clamp or a jubilee clip and this will give you a pointer as to if it's been out before.

be careful with the stand switch shorted out, I had a cb250rs as a work bike some years ago and that didn't have one either,.After a stop off at the papershop for the MCN I took the first left turn heard a scraping noise then realised I'd left the stand down, it got flicked over the bars and landed in the missionary position, broke the shell on my helmet chin bar and buggered the headlight and a few other bits and bobs. An expensive job when I was on crap wages.

i bought the 04- 07 blade stand but had to shorten it by cutting the foot of trimming the leg to the correct length and welding the foot back on, I also put a couple of mm weld on the mounting bracket to stop the stand going up as far.

A very late reply but better late than never. Thanks everyone for the pointers.

I didn't change the clutch jet. Got used to finding neutral from 2nd. I will give it a shot the next time I change oil. It's a chore to take the lower belly pan out with the bike on the abba stand as the now longer (blackbird) stand is not allowed by the abba stand to come down fully.

I am also living with the rounded off oil strainer hex for now. I have decided to go after it at the time of next oil change as well. I have noticed a very small oil drip off the belly pan. I have not made any attempt to locate the source of the seepage yet as the drip is very small and the oil level is fine(both when bike cold and warm), but I suspect it could be the strainer. Anyone else had this problem?

For the side stand, I got it shortened by a cm and the bike is now stands with a very good tilt- very secure there and miles better than the poor oem stand. The blakckbird stand however has a small problem. The spring mounting hook on the stand is very short, so the spring rubs against the pivot nut screw when teh stand is operated, but this can be lived with as this only happens midway the stand movement and not when the stand is down or up, so IMO chances are very slim that the spring would come off.

I now need to get the steering and suspension sorted. The steering is notchy so needs bearings(or may be the steering damper is the problme?). I am surprised the bike passed an MOT not long before I got it with that steering. Do you guys recommend the allballs tapered kit for gen1? Don't think there are any changes between gen 1 or gen2?

I am planning to get new springs , bushes etc for the suspension and if finances permit valve kt as well. Think all 98 and 99 UK bikes had Showa forks in the UK? Recommended valve kits please?

Hello and welcome .. I use the abba stand corry fisted .. the lift handleon the other side.. 5 years now and find it a lot better that wayand never a problem (personal opinion) .. all balls stuff is goodI have found .. I forget .. was it the R that had a steering damperas standard (ohlins) .. The early ones were a bit more flighty but nothingwidowmaker stylee .. if you suspect it .. take it off ..Enjoy .. good bunch on here .. well most of em

If you find us in a hedge check the bike first please .. I`m free on the NHS...

get yourself two jubilee clips for the fuel tank pipe the ones inside the tank are difficult to get into and the crimp ones I hate, you need to cut them off, I take all mine off during maintenance and replace with stainless jubalees clips. After fitting your pipes and pump back in just check by blowing through them that they are ok and not kinked in the tank before you fuel it up

Side stand switch is a must in the 70s we didn't have them and folk were crashing all over the place I remember that it was a common thing to look out for and point to the oncoming biker to let him know. First left hander and on your arse.

A priority is strip and lube the rear suspension and check all the electrical connectors

You can bypass the side stand switch while still keeping the dash light working to show if the stand is down, cant remember the exact way, long long time since I did it, look on line and you will find it.

You can bypass the side stand switch while still keeping the dash light working to show if the stand is down, cant remember the exact way, long long time since I did it, look on line and you will find it.

rsvwalt- I am going to order the allballs bearing kit and have decided to take the forks apart and see if it will be happy with just an oil change or needs bushings etc.

Mr Miller- My RSV is 1999 model year, think the R with ohlins and other shiny bits came out later?

The damper is the standard red colour one. I will see if I can fit the abba stand the other way round.

David451- Too late to do anything now. I opened this thread to ask for help with the breather hose replacement which was done soon after, but still using it to ask other stuff.

I used the constant tension clips to secure the breather hoses and the fuel hose(changed the fuel filter as well) inside the tank. Think made a mistake not to clip the breather hose at the top of the tank.

The bike has an ohlins shock at the back, not the full race version though. The preload is hydraulically adjusted, but the compression damping adjuster is way down near the linkages, impossible to access it from between the link pipes and belly pan. Not even sure if it's seized or something :(

Btw, when I removed the old knackered hoses, there was no clip at the top, only at the base of fuel pump assembly, so thought the top didn't need clips. But may be that was a mistake, as still see tiny amounts of petrol leaking on to the link pipe sometimes, so may be some fuel does seep into the hoses from the top of the tank.

Did others here use clips at the top? And what about ethanol based fuel? Think ethanol destroys the hoses? Do you guys use Esso premium-heard that's the only ethanol free in the UK?

Damo46- Yeah, have seen that post before. That guy has so many good posts on the US forum. He has a great tutorial on bleeding the back brakes as well. I will probably order a side stand switch from Fowlers ready to be fitted next time I remove the fairings. Are the new switches metal or plastic still? Would it be worth getting the aprilia ones or should I go aftermarket or some other oem(Honda?) which might fit?

clip hoses at top of tank and if it’s leaking fuel onto collector then something is wrong also move the pipes or extend them so it dumps on the ground or you will get a flaming inferno I use the super fuel only in my bikes

I regards to rear damper you sure it’s ohlins the standard damper has the adjuster down bottom in a coont of a place screwdriver slot but I thought the ohlins was different is it just a sticker perhaps

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