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RK767G*D2 Hotpoint Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for RK767G*D2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Replacment of the bake unit

The hardest part was removing the old nuthead screws off the old bake burner. Once those were off installing the new bake element was simple. One screw in each wire terminal, two hex head screws to hold the unit in place. Works like a charm!

This repair took between 15 and 30 minutes BUT ONLY because my 10 year old son did the repair. He couldn't wait for his father to come home from work. His only complaint was the tight fit to reach the back of the oven (he wanted to take the oven door off but I said no). He removed the 2 screws that held the element in place and then pulled it from the oven until he could remove the screws that held the wires in place. He was concerned that a little of the insulation came out with the wires, but this was no issue. The new element hooked right up (we figured out that we had to use the 2 new screws for the wires because the old ones did not fit very well). We used the same 'old' screws to attach the element back to the oven. Plugged the oven back in and it works fine. My son was so proud and I didn't have to help any more than shining a flashlight for him.

Oven heating element was broken.

The heating element in the lower oven of my 18 year-old GE double oven broke into two pieces and would not heat. Because of the age of the oven, a replacement part was unavailable through GE. I came across PartSelect.com through an Internet search and ordered the part online. Total cost was $33.50, counting s/h. FedEx delivered the new element less than 48 hours after I placed the order online.

IMPORTANT: FLIP the BREAKER to stop electricity from going to the oven. Replacing the heating element is a two step process: 1. Remove the old element. 2. Install the new element in its place. (NOTE: This job is much simpler if you lift and remove the oven door BEFORE you begin. NOTE also: There are no slots in the screws, so you must use a small socket wrench--not a screwdriver-- to remove the screws.) STEP 1: Two screws go through the small metal plate attached to the element prongs. These screws hold the element to the back oven wall. Remove the screws, then pull the element forward a few inches to gain access to two screws which hold the element prongs to wires that come through the back oven wall. (One wire and one screw for each of the two prongs.) Remove the two screws. Remove and discard the old element. STEP 2: Install the new element by doing Step 1 in reverse. Oven is now repaired! (It took more time to type these instruction than it took to repair the oven.)

Bake element was on its last legs, starting to crack but still functional.

Lower back element had burned out with a piece melted out of it.

First I opened the shipping box that the new part came in and figured out which tools I would need. Then I went down to the cellar and clicked off the breaker that supplied power to the oven. In this case, it was the only 50 amp breaker in the panel so It was easy to figure out.Then I hung a drop light inside the oven so I could see clearly and used a quarter inch drive ratchet with a quarter inch sized socket to remove the two self tapping screws that hold the element plate to the back of the oven. Then I used the same sized socket to remove the small screws that hold the wires and terminal ends to the element contacts.Then I removed the old unit, placed the new one inside and reversed my steps till the new elements leads and bracket were both securely in place and the element supports were resting on the bottom of the oven. I then turned the power back on and set the oven for 350 degrees and switched the 'bake' selector on. Within thirty seconds, I had a nice even heating new element that glowed brightly from one end to the other. Success! Piece of cake. In the future, I plan to get all my appliance parts at PartsSelect.com and do a lot more repairs myself instead of just replacing the entire appliance.

I shut off the power at the breaker. Then I checked that the power was off by turning on the stove. Light did not come on, power is off. [ By the way, I locked the breaker box, in case somebody helpful came along to turn the power back on !] Then I undid the screws holding the old element . Pulled it out, and undid the screws holding the wire leads to the element. Screwed wire leads to new element. Pushed back in, and screwed brace screws back in. Went out to breaker box and turned power back on. Turned on oven. Worked. Second time I've done this. I kind of forgot how, since the last time was about 6 years ago, but anyone could figure this out, unless they didn't want to. Took 20 minutes. A little hard working in a small space , but beats buying a new stove.

The oven element had broken in half and was sparking

I am not a handy person so I was really nervous about doing this. I first unplugged the oven just to be on the safe side. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Next I pulled the element forward and disconnected the two wires. After that I simply reconnected the two wires to the new element, pushed it back in and put the screws in. Piece of cake!

This repair is very simple and only required about 15-20 minutes per unit. After turning off the power to your oven at the main breaker box, it's just a matter of removing two 1/4" screws and pulling out the units. The tricky part is removing the power plugs to the elements and not letting them slip back into the insulation. Once you plug in the new elements and screw them back in you are good to go. Once note, while you have everything out, it is a great opportunity to give your oven a good cleaning.

oven would no longer heat. Only broiler worked

First I removed the 2 screws that held the bake element in place. Then I pulled the element out and disconnected the two wires. Reconnected the two wires to the new element and pushed it back in place and installed the unit again with the 2 screws. Turned the oven on and it heated up like it should.

There are about 12 wires behind the panel...and this was the second time I've replaced the electronic clock in the past four years. I replaced the analog clock four years ago with the digital version because the analog was no longer available, so I knew what I was in for. There are four screw (top of the frame and lower frame) to remove before the frame holding the clock will come out. First DISCONNECT the power! You've have to remove the clock control knobs, and the plastic lever on the self cleaning handle. The first time I ordered this replacement part from PartsSelect there was a diagram included on which wire goes where. This time there wasn't! So it gets a little complicated. Make sure you label all the wired before you disconnect the old clock panel. Anyway, remove the four nuts holding the old clock in place; put the new clock panel in; replace the four nuts. I'll be glad to talk anyone through the rest and I have photos of the whole repair.

The only reason I mentioned "a bit difficult" is that it is very important to unplug the unit first. I didn't want to say easy because I didn't want someone just jumping right in, (you do end up handling raw wires).First I removed the two screws that were holding in the element to the back wall of the oven, then pulled out the old element slightly until you see where the wires are attached to the end of the element. I made note (I don't know if this is neccessary) which wire came off which screwset so I could put the new one in the same way. Took out the old element and attached the new one to the two screwsets on the ends of the element and then reinserted that part in in the back wall of the oven and attached plate that holds it in place. It was for my mother and she now thinks I'm a genius! Don't let anyone take a picture of you of you from behind because you definitely have to put your head in the oven. I believe the door is removable that may make it easier to get to it.

Followed the instruction provided except had to add a NEUTRAL LEAD which on the old part had been provided by the frame as it was metal/ electrical vs plastic/electronic . Used one of the extra Wire Extensions provided, drilled a hole in the clip connection and attached it to the metal frame holding in the replacement clock. The need for a NEUTRAL LEAD was not discussed in the instructions.