Witness the rise of Smoke.Oil.Salt, a new Melrose source for Spanish wine and Valencian paella from
former Lazy Ox chef Perfecto Rocher, soft-opening Tuesday in Hollywood.

It’s the kind of rustic old tavern where Sancho Panza might have refilled his bota, if he lived in the
hills and rode a hybrid. All
bare bricks, red walls and dark wood, with a large wood-burning oven roaring behind the bar.

Spain equals romance. So by the transitive property, this place equals dinner date. You’ll bring someone
who knows the difference between court-painter Goya and bean-can Goya, then tuck yourselves into the wine
bar on the left for some rioja or cava-based cocktails.

Once your two-top is ready, over on the right, you’ll accrue a bottle of something good, along with
welcome slabs of ibérico pork shoulder and tenderloin with romesco and Valencian paella. Take your time.
You’re not going anywhere. Not until you’ve ordered the sea urchin flan with shrimp oil and fried capers
to share.