There is a lot of movement in the subframe. I would do Pedders subframe inserts and while you have the subframe lowered replace the upper control arm bushings. If you're not concerned with drivetrain noise, you can replace the entire subframe bushing for even greater control.

I think working on your launch technique will help more than anything. No offense, but that 60' is terrible. Try rolling out of the clutch and rolling into the gas and perfecting that. Good luck. With that MPH you have a very low 12's run justing waiting for you.

Our BMR trailing arms (TCA026) and our BMR toe rods (TR002) would help make a huge difference, those two items would be the first items I would do since the are relatively inexpensive and are pretty easy to install. If those items didn't cure all the wheel hop I would recommend the BMR "street" rear cradle bushing kit (BK020). These couple items will help out immensely with the wheel hop and are not going to break the bake or change up the driveability of the car really at all.

Also you should look into getting some better tires, you will never be able to hook very good on the stock tire. I would atleast look into the Nitto drag radials.

I think working on your launch technique will help more than anything. No offense, but that 60' is terrible. Try rolling out of the clutch and rolling into the gas and perfecting that. Good luck. With that MPH you have a very low 12's run justing waiting for you.

No offense taken....I tried multiple launch styles...all of them failed. Before the cam was in I was at least able to get 2.1 60's.

if you are running stockers or something on the factory wheel (this i'm assuming you are), you lack this and is where you will see the biggest improvement on.

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Bragging about a car that you paid someone to pick the parts and install them for you, is like paying someone to bang your wife, and then bragging about the kid."I'm sorry officer, no, I do not know why you pulled me over."

ummm the key to any good suspension is a sticky tire
if you are running stockers or something on the factory wheel (this i'm assuming you are), you lack this and is where you will see the biggest improvement on.

Bragging about a car that you paid someone to pick the parts and install them for you, is like paying someone to bang your wife, and then bragging about the kid."I'm sorry officer, no, I do not know why you pulled me over."

with a sticky tire, you should be in the ~1.7 60' range.... that will take you down to a high 11 second pass.... so you are cutting AT LEAST 1.2 seconds off your ET, by spending ~1,000. That isn't a good "bang for your buck" mod?!?! I'd say it's pretty damn good!!

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Bragging about a car that you paid someone to pick the parts and install them for you, is like paying someone to bang your wife, and then bragging about the kid."I'm sorry officer, no, I do not know why you pulled me over."

with a sticky tire, you should be in the ~1.7 60' range.... that will take you down to a high 11 second pass.... so you are cutting AT LEAST 1.2 seconds off your ET, by spending ~1,000. That isn't a good "bang for your buck" mod?!?! I'd say it's pretty damn good!!

I think the smart way to do this is throw some suspension upgrades at the car...benifits both the street & strip aspects. Then, instead of throwing money away on 20" drag radials...going with what you suggested with 18" wheels with a sticky set of drag radials, then praying the OEM halfshafts don't grenade. I'll bet you're on the mark...with those 18s an 11 time slip can be had.

Like was said earlier, work on launching the thing. If your tires are spinning at the line, you may as well give that run up. Don't be afraid to heat those tires up either. What track are you running at...what was the weather/DA like.