No brake lights, fuses keep blowing and wont shift

Hello,

Thank you for your response. I have inspected the visible areas for chafed wires and not seeing any issues. Could you give me a little info about the shift lock control switch, the shift lock solenoid, and the shift lock control ECU. Could any of these three be my problem? Do you know what years and which other model cars would use the same shift lock components, I was told camry, celica, paseo, tercell, corolla and possibly even the lexus 300's may use the same parts? Please help me I dont know whats next..

Thank you very much. I disconnected both lights and did not bow fuse. I hooked up Left side only and fuse did not blow again, when I hooked up right side only fuse blew as soon as I apply brake or turn lights on. So you were correct and narrowed it down to the right side lights, harness and wires. All wires, harness, plugs and connections all look good. When I looked at bulbs all filliments were good but I wasnt able to take the bulb out. I forced it out, the contacts on the bulb were melted together and melted to the contacts of the socket causing the short. I had a problem trying to replace just the 1 socket but in the end I took the socket apart, and was able to find a new contact and spring at a local part store and replace it for $2.30 alot better than $50 bucks for the entire harness. I thank you very much for making me backtrack and look at the taillamps again. Now I know to better make sure to inspect bulb connectors as well as wiring, plugs, and filliments. Thank you for helping me and saving me time and money on the shift lock components in the center console.

Thank you,

JeffThank you very much. I disconnected both lights and did not bow fuse. I hooked up Left side only and fuse did not blow again, when I hooked up right side only fuse blew as soon as I apply brake or turn lights on. So you were correct and narrowed it down to the right side lights, harness and wires. All wires, harness, plugs and connections all look good. When I looked at bulbs all filliments were good but I wasnt able to take the bulb out. I forced it out, the contacts on the bulb were melted together and melted to the contacts of the socket causing the short. I had a problem trying to replace just the 1 socket but in the end I took the socket apart, and was able to find a new contact and spring at a local part store and replace it for $2.30 alot better than $50 bucks for the entire harness. I thank you very much for making me backtrack and look at the taillamps again. Now I know to better make sure to inspect bulb connectors as well as wiring, plugs, and filliments. Thank you for helping me and saving me time and money on the shift lock components in the center console.

I will be glad to explain all of that to you, but at this moment, I do not believe that those items are the root of your problem. Let's narrow down the issue.

Try this:

DISCONNECT the wire connectors at both of the taillamps.

Replace the fuse.

Try it again.

We need to isolate the cause of your problem. Diagnosis is the key here.

Please advise if the fuse continus to blow. I will be glad to explain all of that to you, but at this moment, I do not believe that those items are the root of your problem. Let's narrow down the issue.
Try this:
DISCONNECT the wire connectors at both of the taillamps.
Replace the fuse.
Try it again.
We need to isolate the cause of your problem. Diagnosis is the key here.
Please advise if the fuse continus to blow.

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There is a wire grounding out somewhere. Start from the fuel pump (u know that is good) and follow the wires inspecting them carefully for any chafing or corrosion. It should go up thru the floor around the back of the back seat. Pop the seat out and continue looking at the wires taking the wrapping off as you go. It may be bad under the carpet where water collects from boots and shoes, so look at these areas carefully for corrosion. Happy hunting!!

If you keep blowing the brake fuse than you have a short in the system. Unplug the brake switch. Install a new fuse. If it did not blow than the problem is after the brake switch. Next unplug the turn signal switch, then plug the stop light switch back in and press the brake pedal. Did the fuse blow. If not than the wiring is good in between the two switches. With the turn signal switch disconnected use a jumper wire in between the light green wire (power from the brake switch) and the orange with light blue wire (power to the right brake lamp). If the fuse blows than there is a short in the right side brake circuit between the plug in and the rear socket assembly. If the fuse does not blow than jump from the light green wire to the Light green with orange wire (power to the left brake lamp). If the fuse blows than the problem is in the left hand brake wiring circuit.

If the fuse blows on different trailers then it's all down to the vehicle. You either have incorrect wiring on the vehicle, a short OR the fuse is not of a high enough value to cope with the additional brake lights? You could try removing all the trailer bulbs EXCEPT the brake lights - e.g. if it's trying to power up the indicators too? That would stop the fuse blowing...... OR remove the brake bulbs from the vehicle & see if it operates the trailer without blowing...... Check the total wattage of ALL the brake lamps & see if the fuse is actually of a high enough rating? Be aware though that increasing the value of the fuse could cause damage elsewhere! As a rough guide a 25 watt bulb will pull around 2 amps at 12 volts - so 4 bulbs may pull up to 8 amps & clearly blow a 5 amp fuse! If in doubt take it to an auto electrician...... The wiring needs to be correctly protected!

I would start with a close inspection of the wiring to the fuel shut
down solenoid,see if there is a good tight connection on both ends of
the harness and that there is no signs of the wires being chafed that
could cause an intermittent short or open.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback
is important and
I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some
testimonial comment about this answer.

This issue is most likely related to a loose connection in the wiring harness. There is a wire harness that runs inside a rubber boot and is visible when the door is open. Move the boot up and down, back and forth with a little pressure and see if the buttons work. If so, there is a break in the wire inside this harness and is very common with Jeep. You may also need to remove the door panel and inspect the connections to the door/window switch module to correct this issue.

The Tail lights and Instrument lights are usually on the same circuit so both will go out if the fuse for the circuit blows. Check for a blown fuse for this circuit and replace if out. If fuse continues to fail, check the tail light or side globes for a faulty globe and replace if necessary. Also check for any chafed wires that could be shorting to the body causing the fuse to blow.