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36 Hours in Hamburg

By DENNY LEE

Published: October 7, 2007

HAMBURG, the maritime and media center of Germany, is a city of jarring juxtapositions. The industrial waterfront heaves with rusty docks, while its center is filled with emerald parks, blue lakes and cream-colored villas. Sex workers ply their trade along the neon-lit Reeperbahn, while old-money families have made this Baroque port into Germany's richest city. And despite playing second fiddle to the cultural juggernaut that is Berlin, Hamburg breeds its own brand of the cosmopolitan cool -- with a large Turkish population, gay enclaves and fashion centers -- who mingle at chichi restaurants and steamy underground clubs. Where else but this high-low metropolis can you window-shop for Cartier diamond necklaces during the day and slum it with punk rockers at night?

FRIDAY

3 p.m.
1)INNER-CITY REGATTA

Much of life in Hamburg takes place along the water, especially along the Binnenalster (Inner Alster), a swan-filled lake flanked by glamorous hotels and luxury boutiques. But you won't be the only tourist. For a less-trodden introduction to this watery city, walk north to the Aussenalster (Outer Alster), a large lake surrounded by parks and trees. If the weather is nice, you'll find an international mix of Hamburgers lounging at A. Mora (An der Alster; 49-40-2805-6846; www.a-mora.com), a slinky new cafe at the edge of a small marina. Order a Alsterwasser (Carlsberg beer and Sprite), and watch couples in seersucker and caftans take out their sailboats.

4:30 p.m.
2)MELLOW BRICK ROAD

For a peek at Hamburg's diversity, stroll down Lange Reihe, a brick-lined street behind the Hamburg Hauptbahnhof, the main train station. The narrow lane is home to Asian markets, Middle Eastern travel agencies and a pageantry of rainbow flags for gay-friendly cafes and hair salons that have Americanized names like Cut'n Cruise. Also check out Koppel 66 (www.koppel66.de), a converted factory that houses 15 artisans. They include Stefan Fink (49-40-24-71-51; www.stefanfink.de), who turns exotic woods and 18-karat nibs into fountain pens from 1,200 euros to 4,500 euros (about $1,700 to $6,400 at $1.42 to the euro).

9 p.m.
3)NACKT CHEF

A navy of fishing boats and rising young chefs help keep local specialties like Aalsuppe (eel soup) off the menu. Among the most talked-about restaurants is Das Weisse Haus (Neum?n 50, ?elg?, 49-40-39-09-016; www.das-weisse-haus.de), which is owned by the celebrity television chef Tim M?er -- known as the Jamie Oliver of Germany. It is housed in an old fisherman's cottage and sports an artfully low-key d?r and even subtler menu: there is none. You simply tell the waiter how hungry you are, along with your food allergies and dislikes, and the kitchen whips up a buzz-worthy meal. My four-course dinner (36 euros) included a honey almond salad with watermelon and rack of lamb with tarragon hollandaise. Make your reservations early.

11 p.m.
4)ADULT ENTERTAINMENT

After dark, all roads seem to lead to the Reeperbahn in the St. Pauli district, a street that would make even the old Times Square look like Disneyland. Skip the sex emporiums, the seedy peep shows and brothelized side streets (O.K., maybe a quick tour for the purposes of anthropological research). There are plenty of spots that aren't X-rated. While not as chic as it once was, China Lounge (Norbistor 14; 49-40-319-766-22; www.china-lounge.de) still draws large crowds to its three levels of chinoiserie-themed decadence. Check the local party listings for a thousand other options.

SATURDAY

11 a.m.
5)RAGS TO RICHES

Some graffiti and tattooed squatters remain, but the punk days of the Karoviertel quarter are largely gone. Dive bars are being pushed out by indie designers like Herr von Eden (Marktstrasse 33; www.herrvoneden.com), a dandy haberdashery that suggests a German Paul Smith. On Saturdays, a treasure-filled flea market (Neuer Kamp 30, www.marktkultur-hamburg.de) spills down Marktstrasse, the district's main artery, where you can forage for vintage Krups coffee mills (15 euros) and 1950s Kaiser table lamps (55 euros).

1:30 p.m.
6)ART MULTIPLEX

Escape the crowds at the Hamburger Kunsthalle (Glockengiesserwall 1; 49-40-428-131-200; www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de), the city's multiplex museum. Despite its colossal collection, it is refreshingly free of snap-happy tourists. Upstairs, you'll find old and modern masters, from Bertram to Picasso. Downstairs, at the end of a long Jenny Holzer L.E.D. sculpture, is a contemporary arts annex, with German heavyweights like Gerhard Richter.

3 p.m.
7)OPEN HAUS

It may be the world's biggest hard-hat tour. An entire city within a city is sprouting in the former docklands that extend two miles along the Elbe River. It's known as HafenCity, and the new borough is expected to double the population of central Hamburg with 5,500 waterfront apartments, slick offices and a glass-sheathed concert hall designed by the firm of Herzog & de Meuron. Alhough it's only half finished, scores of inquisitive Germans arrive for the 3 o'clock tour (Am Sandtorkai 30; 49-40-369-01799; www.hafencity.com) to get an open-house glimpse of the city's future.