*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.| | }}

+

*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.| |

+

}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_biceps.jpeg|Biceps|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_biceps.jpeg|Biceps|

-

*Biceps are fully closed.| |}}

+

*Biceps are fully closed.| |

+

*Biceps must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_forearms.jpeg|Forearms|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_forearms.jpeg|Forearms|

*Forearms are fully closed.| |

*Forearms are fully closed.| |

-

*No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.}}

+

*No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

+

*Forearms must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. }}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_handplates.jpeg|Hand Plates|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_handplates.jpeg|Hand Plates|

Line 105:

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*Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.| |

*Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.| |

*Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

*Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

-

*Ideally the AM/FX style chest plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style chest plate, the bottom and sides shall be trimmed and a new return edge shall be added at the bottom to eliminate the over elongated appearance and to give a more accurate look. See the tutorial: http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tutorial-chestback}}

+

*AM chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. }}

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*Back plate contains a "O II" design.| |

*Back plate contains a "O II" design.| |

*Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

*Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

-

*Ideally the AM/FX style back plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style back plate it shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. and shall be reshaped to emulate a screen used back plate by properly trimming and re-shaping (stretching) the left and right edges of the armor to contour to your body. Note: There is currently no tutorial available for this, but you can see an example of this Mod and visual comparison at whitearmor.net}}

+

*AM back plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. }}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_undersuit.jpeg|Under Suit|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_undersuit.jpeg|Under Suit|

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_ab.jpeg|Abdomen Plate|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_ab.jpeg|Abdomen Plate|

-

*The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter. |

+

*The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter. |

-

*Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed . |

+

*Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed . |

*Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.

*Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.

-

*Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets, the heads should be approximately 5/16" diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note:For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

+

*Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.

*A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.

*A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.

*A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.

*A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.

+

*Ab plate buttons must be integrated and painted directly on the plate, no separate buttons are allowed.

}}

}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_kidney.jpeg|Kidney Plate|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_kidney.jpeg|Kidney Plate|

-

*It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.|

*Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.

-

*Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16" diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

+

}}

}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_butt.jpeg|Butt Plate|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_butt.jpeg|Butt Plate|

-

*It is allowable to have a single butt/kidney plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of the belt and line up with the kidney plate, with a minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.|

*A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.|

*A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.|

+

.|

*Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

*Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

}}

}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_belt.jpeg|Belt|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_belt.jpeg|Belt|

*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).

*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).

-

*Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3” to 3.5” wide. The color is be white to off-white.

+

*The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white.

*The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.|

*The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.|

-

*Belt shall be canvas or canvas covered, leather and vinyl are not acceptable.

*There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt..|

*There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt..|

-

*Drop boxes are closed in the back.

+

*Drop boxes must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed.

+

*Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.

*The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.}}

*The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_detonator.jpeg|Thermal Detonator|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_detonator.jpeg|Thermal Detonator|

-

*(a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2” and 2.5" in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.|

+

*(A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. This is an all gray cylinder without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length should be approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).

-

*The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint.| }}

*Thermal detonator belt clips must be positioned near the end caps with a approximate 1/8" (3 mm) gap.

+

| }}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_thighs.jpeg|Thighs|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_thighs.jpeg|Thighs|

*Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.

*Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.

*The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.| |

*The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.| |

-

*The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.

+

*Thigh ammo belt must be attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Standard pop rivets are not allowed

-

*The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.}}

+

*The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

+

*Thighs must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. }}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shins.jpeg|Lower Legs|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shins.jpeg|Lower Legs|

*Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.

*Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.

-

*The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net | |

+

*The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net |

-

*Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.}}

+

*Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin.

+

*Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. |

+

*Lower legs must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

+

}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_boots.jpeg|Boots|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_boots.jpeg|Boots|

*White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.| |

*White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.| |

*There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).

*There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).

-

*Boots shall be lightly scuffed.}}

+

}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_holster.jpeg|Holster|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_holster.jpeg|Holster|

-

*Made of black leather or leather-like material.|

+

*Holster is worn on left side of belt. It must be made of black leather or leather-like material, and must be attached via two leather or leather-like material straps to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.

-

*Holster shall be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.

+

*The holster must be affixed with only two fasteners at the bottom (one per strap). The fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.

-

*The holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.| }}

+

.| |}}

{{CRLaccessories}}

{{CRLaccessories}}

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*Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun. |

*Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun. |

*A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.| }}

*A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.| }}

“This station is now the ultimate power in the universe. I suggest we use it!” - Admiral Motti (ANH)

Admiral Motti was incorrect in this statement above, about the Death Star. The true ultimate power in the Universe, that the Empire possesses, is the Stormtrooper.

The Stormtroopers (Stunt) were the pre-emptive strike force in the boarding party of the Rebel blockade runner the Tantive IV, and made up the main garrison that could be seen throughout the corridors of The first Death Star.

These highly trained elite soldiers cannot be bribed or swayed from their dedication to the Empire.

The Stormtroopers are not only the first strike team units sent into critical combat situations, but are also assigned to keep a watchful eye over the Imperial officers who might betray the Emperor’s cause.

Garrisons of Stormtroopers are stationed on worlds throughout the Galaxy to keep order, and stop any Rebel uprisings.

Even though the Stormtroopers are an independent unit, having their own command structure, ranking system and support facilities, they still serve on Imperial vessels, and operate along side the Imperial army and navy.

The Stormtroopers are shielded by hardened, plastoid,composite armor, fitted over a black environmental body glove, with a built-in life support system. The imposing white armor not only protects them from harsh environments, but also gives limited protection from blaster fire.

Stormtroopers carry an array of equipment and weapons, wielding blaster rifles and pistols with great skill.

The Stormtroopers, having the combined training and battle tactics of both an Army soldier and a Marine, makes them highly adaptable and a very skilled force.

Rebellion slang terms and nicknames for Stormtroopers:

Whitehats

Plastic Soldiers

Boys in White

Plastic Boys

Stormies

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, requirements for Level 2 "Expert Infantryman" are listed in blue. Requirements for Level 3 "Centurion" are listed in red.

Those armor pieces without blue and/ or red text are by default considered the highest level.

Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards.

Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.

The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

FX armor may not be used for Level 3 approval.

This Visual Guide has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team and is certified for use as a minimum approval guideline for GMLs. GMLs are free to approve this costume type.

Any uncertainties or questionable aspects of the submitted costume should be brought to the appropriate DL/GML peer review section of the legion forum.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below.

HelmetFor 501st approval:

Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.

The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.

Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.

Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.

Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.

Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.

Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.

Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.

Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.

Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Shoulder StrapsFor 501st approval:

These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.

For level two certification (if applicable):

No visible rivets are allowed.

For level three certification (if applicable):

These shall free float in back.

These shall be glued in front.

The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

Shoulder BellsFor 501st approval:

One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

BicepsFor 501st approval:

Biceps are fully closed.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Biceps must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

ForearmsFor 501st approval:

Forearms are fully closed.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

Forearms must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

Hand PlatesFor 501st approval:

Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.

Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

ChestFor 501st approval:

Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

AM chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version.

BackFor 501st approval:

Back plate contains a "O II" design.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

AM back plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version.

Under SuitFor 501st approval:

Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Abdomen PlateFor 501st approval:

The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed .

For level three certification (if applicable):

Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.

Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.

A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.

A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.

Ab plate buttons must be integrated and painted directly on the plate, no separate buttons are allowed.

Kidney PlateFor 501st approval:

A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.

Butt PlateFor 501st approval:

A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.

For level two certification (if applicable):

.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

BeltFor 501st approval:

Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).

The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white.

The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.

For level two certification (if applicable):

There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt..

For level three certification (if applicable):

Drop boxes must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed.

Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.

The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.

Thermal DetonatorFor 501st approval:

(A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. This is an all gray cylinder without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length should be approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).

Thermal detonator belt clips must be positioned near the end caps with a approximate 1/8" (3 mm) gap.

For level three certification (if applicable):

ThighsFor 501st approval:

Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.

The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Thigh ammo belt must be attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Standard pop rivets are not allowed

The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

Thighs must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

Lower LegsFor 501st approval:

Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.

The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net

For level two certification (if applicable):

Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin.

Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Lower legs must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

BootsFor 501st approval:

White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).

HolsterFor 501st approval:

Holster is worn on left side of belt. It must be made of black leather or leather-like material, and must be attached via two leather or leather-like material straps to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.

The holster must be affixed with only two fasteners at the bottom (one per strap). The fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.

.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below.

BlasTech E-11For 501st approval:

Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Folding stock (does not need to function).

A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.

D-ring mounted on the rear.

Correct style scope.

Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.

Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

BlasTech DLT-19 Heavy Blaster RifleFor 501st approval:

Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.

For level two certification (if applicable):

A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.

For level three certification (if applicable):

This document and all of the images within were created by and are the property of the 501st Legion. All other uses are prohibited.