hi all I got a replacement cylinder for the Stuart so the other one im repairing to go on to my Stuart v10 sos no pics of this bit but mild out the bad port section of the cylinder just bigger than the valve chest that dune got sum cast iron and made a plug to fit in did this the old way with a hacksaw and files once a snug fit I glued it in place I have sum epoxy witch is resistant to hi temp once that's bin left for a week I will mill it and put the ports back in it right pics

hi well it ant bin a week lol I mild off the plug sos no pics of that bit then set the cylinder up in the 4 jaw chuck direst the end off then board our to 20mm then direst the opposite end off the bare in the pic its bang on 20mm that I have going threw the bore then marked out where the ports need to go right pics

hi all not a lot of pics I direst up the box casting I filled in sum deep casting marks sos no pics of that bit then gave it a cot of black gloss pant do you no wat the silver thing is for made a rod to go in to the top casting for setting up on the angel bracket that I made to hold it still undecided in witch way im going to mashen it right pics

Oh okay, sorry, Bob, I didn't realize it was a guessing game. I've seen something like that before though. P. 146, Tubal Cain (the ME, non-Youtube one), "Simple Workshop Devices", although yours is nicer because it has a backrest, not just a plinth. I like that.

well even more pics I fitted the top casting to the angel plate then fit it to me face plate after sum time of giggling abwatt got it lined up on center once that was dun I glued the top casting on as I did not want to just rely on the clamp that I made up to go across the crank Bering mawnts to hold it in place then I turned the front face dawn to size an fast it off then started to boar it out to the rite size right pics I must Point out I did this work sum time back but im on holiday and thort it wood be good to put sum post up wile im a way when I get back I need to drill and tap the plate that its fixt to so I can mill the Bering supports and clean up the slot in the side and I have put sum pics up of me work bench lol any way pics

hi all right as back from me holiday so I got stuck in today on the engine I machined up the other cylinder did not take any pics as it was the same proses as the last on then drilled and tapped the top casting to the base of the angel bracket then got a lump of cast ion cut a lump off yes I no you get a lump of it in the kit but I need to make two top caps and two bottom caps any way turned up two top caps then made one bottom cap I will have to dismantle the 10v two get the sizes right for the bottom cap any way me lath is curved in cast ion muck so I think tomorrow will be spent cleaning it dawn any way pics

Nice progress KRV3000; did you find any chilled spots in the cast iron sash weight when you cut & machined it?. these lumps of cast can vary, some machines up nicely other bits can be a pig to machine until you get under the skin.

George.

Logged

George.

Always look on the bright side of life, & remember.. KISS..' Keep It Simple Stupid'

hi did a bit more I started on the valve chest first job con vert it all in to mm then start to mashen it up wat the drawings don't tell you is that there is a off set on the gland fitting (ie) its not in the center it is on the with but not in its depth good job I have the old drawings of the 10v witch shows you this off set any way ones taken to het right thickness I had to get me height gage out and marked the center spot once that was dun I made a filler pace to go in the center of the valve chest this is too keep the drill running strata then set it up in the 4 jaw chuck and with me center bar got it on center then you have to drill in three steps 2.4 then 3.2 then 5.4 right pics

hi all dun a lot more will post the pics tomorrow I drilled the bottom cap then drilled the channels for the steam ports all so did the ports for the taps once more the drawings don't show this but I no that on this engine and the v10 there a extra and you don't need to fit them but if you did want to fit them wat is the hole you need to drill for the tap and the hole for the feed to the tap and you need to put flats on where the taps fit on to any way as im making me own taps so the threaded hole ant a problem but wat is a problem is on the v10 the taps are essay to get to but on the h10 there on the bottom of the cylinder so I have a plan its to make up sum pipes to go from the bottom and go up to the taps that will be fitted to the side and rather than the taps pointing out they will be pointing dawn ( i.e. ) just like your kitchen taps I all so mild out the ports on the second cylinder any way will post more tomorrow

hi even more this time with words lol my way of drilling the bottom cap to the top casting made up a 7ba by7mm long 4mm threaded 7ba to go in to the cylinder then filed off the threads so they fit in to the bottom cap then with a flat plate and a angel bracket clamp up the cylinder to the top casting keeping the port face at right angel then only on the bottom of the end cap and the top casting run sum super glue a rawnd the jont once the glue has gone off remove the cylinder but don't move the end cap then drill threw the end cap with a 2mm drill in to the top casting then drill with a 2.6 mm drill pics

even more once that's dune next job the gland nut and piston yes in the kit you get a lump of brass to make these out of but im making them out of bronze chopped up a lump then in the 4 jaw to turn it in to a rawnd the piston od is 19.5 mm by 6.5 thick in the drawing it says three oil groves well im opting for a silicon o ring sos no pics of this bit as camera went flat once that was dun I then made the gland nut 12.75 od by 9.6 mm long drilled 3.9 then a 4mm Remer then turned dawn the end for 5.16 thread then cut it off and then threaded one end of the 4mm rod supplied for the piston rod 5ba thread right pics