Jamie's Italian is true to its essence

Thursday 29 July 2010 09:36 BST

It was 8.15pm last Friday evening. The girl on the desk said that the wait for a table would be about two hours. Reader, I have to confess I reached into my wallet for a business card. Well, I was tired, Reg was tired, I had this review to write. The manager nodded but to give him his due, we still waited a while, benefiting from the breads, olives and charcuterie passed around to keep the queue docile.

I don’t believe it is just the name and fame of Jamie Oliver that packs them in. The dishes perhaps described too possessively and exuberantly — in that way that parents sometimes try to coax children to eat — are simply true to their essence; fresh, seemingly healthy and fairly priced. I watched carefully and everyone around us was treated by the staff in the same affably courteous way we were. And everyone likes Italian food.

Crispy squid "with really garlicky mayo" and courgette fritti "with the creamiest whipped chickpea, anchovy, caper and parsley dressing" were both meticulously fried in clean oil without a whisper of greasiness. A bit more salt would have galvanised the dressing.

"Beautiful" bucatini carbonara with the addition of courgette ribbons to the egg, cheese and pancetta sauce fulfilled its description except that spaghetti would have been nicer than wormy bucatini.

Chargrilled chop-steak beefburger as tall as a Sir Norman Foster building was much appreciated and immaculately trimmed lamb-chop lollipops cooked with a little pinkness at the centre under a brick and served with three dips were a marvel for £13.95. Jamie’s "favourite humble green salad" needed more dressing ie more assertiveness.

Only the dessert we shared of Amalfi lemon curd was disappointing; too stodgy.

Jamie has demonstrated that a mid-price chain can be lovable and gratifying. "He is a scholar and a gentleman," said Reg. PS. As we left at about 9.30pm tables were becoming almost immediately available.