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Saturday, 20 June 2015

Blue Spicy Jade

Well I said I was after some easy comfy knit skirts and I found a new one to try!

This is the new Paprika Patterns Jade skirt. The pattern was suggested by Kat after she saw how the Lindy Skirts fitted me. It didn't take long for that eftpos card to open up the webpage and type in the numbers! (A take on a phrase shamelessly borrowed from Juliet!)

I've not made anything from Paprika Patterns, so this is completely new to me. I really couldn't wait to make this up. Those pleats on the front were just calling me and saying make me, make me! How could I resist such a call from a pattern ;-)

My printed pattern pieces didn't completely line up, but it didn't make any difference to the making up of the skirt. The front pattern piece is cut as a single piece and then pleated. Just check out this pattern piece!

The pleats are actually really easy to make up. The fabric I chose was a sturdy double knit and the pleats were easy to make up. I watched the free video on the website and just went for it. Each pleat is the same depth, I think it was 1.5", so out came the tape measure and I checked the pleats that way. As long as you remember to pleat from the bottom, you shouldn't have any problems at all. The pattern suggests using different coloured pins to identify each pleat. If you have pins with coloured heads, I recommend this.

The pleats are held in place by a zig-zag stitch along the length of the pleat on the underside attaching it to the lining at the same time. So you end up with a criss-cross of zig-zag lines on the back of the lining.

From here I diverted from the instructions. I didn't want to line the whole skirt, so just lined the front. I attached the back piece down the side seams, just about to the hem, then hemmed the back by hand then finished sewing the rest of the side seam. It made the side seam finish nicer.

At this point, as the pattern suggests, I tried the skirt on. Mm, I'm not sure what had happened. It was too tight around the bum and the waist enormous! So I let out the hips as much as I possibly could and also took in the waist by about an inch. This meant that the waistband was drafted incorrectly. It's quite curved and the curve is meant to be on the side seam and having taken in the side seam... The problem here is that if you follow the instructions, you would have already applied the interfacing to the end of the waistband for the zip. I had to cut off my interfaced section as the waistband was now too long.

I decided to go for the exposed zip option. One side of this took three goes. I had the correct length zip, but when I attached it to the skirt there was a big gap at the top, I'd cut the correct length in the back piece, so I had to attach a hook and eye at the top of the waistband. The zip is also attached differently to other exposed zips I've sewn. It's actually attached with right sides together like a seam and folded over. When I've sewn these before they've just been attached on the top. I personally think it would look better just attached on the outside.

I have worn this skirt a couple of times, but it's not working currently, it just keeps falling down! I have to keep hitching it up. The pattern does have an option to add elastic in the waistband. I recommend this completely. I attached my waistband down by hand, instead of stitching in the ditch. I think I will unpick my hand sewing and attach knit elastic to the waistband to see if I can get the skirt to stay up better. It is meant to sit just below the waist, but this just doesn't sit properly at all! And as soon as I walk a little way, it starts falling down.

I could probably talk for a while about issues I've had, but these are the main issues I've faced. This could just be me and the shape of my body!

The details

Fabric: Blue-grey double knit from Oamaru Silk Centre, June 2015. You do need the 1.5m of 150 wide, I've only got small pieces left.

Notions: Thread, a small amount of interfacing, a hook and eye and a trouser zip for the exposed zip.

Pattern:Paprika Patterns Jade skirt, view B. I cut a straight size 6. Although the finished waistband is way more than the 30" stated on the pattern for this size.

Changes made: I only lined the front, so hemmed the back, then attached it to the front. The side seams were pressed to the back.First worn: This last week some point!

Another one/recommendations: Mm, I still really like the pattern, but I have reservations. I'm actually tempted by making another one, but will likely cut almost a size 5 for the waist an grade out to a 7 for the hips (I have 42" hips and 32" waist). I will also most likely leave off the exposed zipper. I suggest leaving cutting the waistband until you have made up the skirt and sewn the side seams. That way you're more likely to have the correct size waistband. I also recommend elastic in the waistband to help it keep shape and size. The whole thing was sewn on my normal machine, no overlocking in sight!

Oh and excuse any strange faces in these photos, it was raining and cold! However, I have managed to make this up in time for the New to Me week on The Monthly Stitch!