Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. It provides some of the following:-

THERE ARE 3 SECTORS UP A HOUSE WALL OR HIGH WALL:-

0-36 inches (0-90 cms) in height - The Base. This gives the most sheltered conditions in the garden, with soil and air temperatures above those of the surrounding area. This area will suffer less buffeting from wind. Soil care will be ensuring a high humus content - to enrich the nutrient value and help to create reservoirs of moisture. Light intensity will depend on the aspect of the wall (North-facing will get very little sunlight) with the surrounding buildings and plants, including trees. The following pages in this gallery cover The Base: 1a Base of Wall Plants 1b Annuals 1c Herbs and Vegetables 1d Cut Flowers, Cut Foliage 1e Scented Flower or Foliage 1f Foliage Use only.

36-120 inches (90-300 cms) in height - The Prime Site. As the plant moves upwards to about 6 feet, conditions change: plants still benefit from the reflected heat and stored heat of walls warmed by the sun but have more light and air. Many climbers will have established a trunk below and now begin to spread themselves. This middle section is visually important, because it is at eye level and just below that that we should display those items to which we want to draw most attention. Most of the shrubs that are suitable for growing against walls are between 3 and 10 feet in height. The following pages in this gallery cover The Prime Site: 2a Wall Shrubs 2b Fruit TreesPlants for Wildlife-use as wellRaised Bed for Wheelchair Users

Above 120 inches (300+ cms) in height - The Higher Reaches. This is only likely to occur on house walls and other tall buildings with climbers and trained trees/shrubs covering all the way up to 36 inches from the guttering at roof level ( to prevent ingress to the internal roof space or blockage of the guttering). The following pages in this gallery cover The Higher Reaches:House-Wall RamblersNon-House-Wall Climbing TwinersNon-House-Wall Self-Clinging Climbers

The climbers in the Climber Plant Gallery have been placed into one of these 3 heights with the Text Box Boundary in:-

Ramblers/Scramblers - These climbers lean on other plants or need artificial supports to climb - Roses, Jasmine, Espalier-trained Fruit Tree/Fruit Ramblers. These are suitable for house or building walls where vine-eye and wire or 1 inch square timber trellis support structures can be erected up to 3 feet below the gutter for the climbers to be tied to with natural twine (not plastic or metal wire - stems grow sideways but plastic and metal constrict this, whereas natural twine will eventually rot or be broken by the expanding stem), or they can be trained on chainlink fences, trellis, pergolas or arbours. Herbaceous Clematis has been added since the top growth dies off completely in the Autumn and Non-Climbing Clematis since it will require being tied to a support structure. In this Gallery (Infill3 Plants Index Gallery), these climbers go into the 3a The Higher Reaches - House-Wall Ramblers Page.

Self-Clingers: Aerial Roots - A series of roots are produced along the length of its stems. These attach themselves very strongly to the surfaces they find - Ivy (Hedera).Self-Clingers: Sucker Pads - Tendrils are produced along the young growing stems, opposite the leaves. The main tendril stem divides into a number of slender filaments, each of which has a scarcely perceivable pad at its tip.Once the tips have established contact, the tiny pad is much expanded and becomes a significant sucker, which fits so strongly to the surface that if the stem is pulled away the suckers are left behind- Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia).Self-Clingers: Twining - Many climbers find support simply by twining their stems around any object they find - Wisteria and Honeysuckle. Self-Clingers: Twining Leaf-Stem - Some climbers make do with sensitive leaf stalks which wrap themselves around objects for support - Clematis. Others establish themselves with thorns, hooks, spines and prickles.Self-Clingers: Twining Tendrils - A group of climbers climb by producing a series of tendrils. These are touch sensitive and will curl round any small object they come into contact with and thus enable the plant to climb securely on itself or other plants or manmade support structures - Chinese Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus henryana), Sweet Pea and the Pea Family (Leguminosae).All these Self-Clingers are suitable for garden walls, chainlink fences, trellis, pergolas or fedges, but not for House-Walls. In this Gallery (Infill3 Plants Index Gallery), these climbers go into the 3b The Higher Reaches - Non-House-Wall Climbing Twiners Page or 3c The Higher Reaches - Non-House-Wall Self-Clinging Climbers Page.

These are split into the following in the Comparison Pages (since the pages use a fixed template format, then if the Title of the Page has a White Background and its a Twiner you are looking for, the photos will be at the bottom of the page with blanks before it. A Page Title with a Green Background indicates an empty page) :-

This plant gallery has thumbnail pictures of climber flowers in the following colours per month:-

(o)Blue

Orange

(o)Other Colours

(o)Pink

(o)Red

(o)White

(o)Yellow

If you click on a thumbnail another window opens with 9 larger images (Flower, Foliage and Form - for Flower, Foliage and Form pages) and the following plant description:-

Plant Name

Common Name

Soil

Sun Aspect

Soil Moisture

Plant Type

Height x Spread in feet

Foliage

Flower Colour in Month(s). Fruit.

Comments - Form Type, Pruning Group, Native UK Plant. There are further details on pruning of climbers in thePruning Page of the Plants Section.

Before the charge of the Light Brigade brings that stampede of gardeners on their unwilling donkeys dragging loads of plants in the carts behind them, it may be worth considering the following facts of the gardener who is going to tend those newly-planted plants and the horizontal location where they (the plants not the gnome gardeners) are planted:-

PLANTS FOR SHADY SITES

PLANTS FOR SUNNY SITES

PLANTS ON RAISED BEDS FOR WHEELCHAIR USERS OR OTHERS WHO DO NOT WISH TO BEND TO THE GROUND OR KNEEL ON IT

PLANTS FOR SHADY SITES

North - Knows the points of the Compass.

North-facing

West - Woman

West-facing

House

East-facing

East - Every

South-facing

South - Silly

Shady sites are those that never get the sun, such as

a north-facing wall in the northern hemisphere (Many climbers and shrubs suitable for growing up walls are found in woodland conditions in the wild where they may not feel that much sun hitting them directly. This site despite being cool may also be quite dry because the wall or fence may create a rain-shadow. The predominant winds in much of the UK are from the south-west and other quarters, rather than from the north; and therefore the plants growing on or by the north wall are not likely to be buffeted by too much wind. Plants next to a north-facing fence or hedge will suffer without sun, be cool and quite dry from its rain-shadow and besides the wind coming through the hedge may also suffer from eddying winds),

or

those that get the morning sun but are then sunless for the rest of the day, such as those that are east-facing (On walls that only get the morning sun there is less chance of the bricks soaking up heat, storing it and releasing it during the colder periods of the night in cool spells, which is important for plants towards the end of the winter and in spring when they are in growth and more vulnerable to cold damage. Like the north-facing site, in Britain, the ground that is close to the house on the east will in the rain-shadow and may escape the main load of any shower or storm. humus, in the form of peat, compost or other form of organic matter, will help to provide food as well as acting like a sponge in retaining water. Over Britain winds from the east are not as frequent as those from the south or west. Persistent strong winds in freezing conditions can badly scorch evergreens such as conifers.).

PLANTS FOR SUNNY SITES

North - Knows the points of the Compass.

North-facing

West - Woman

West-facing

House

East-facing

East - Every

South-facing

South - Silly

Walls and fences that face the sun or receive the sun for a large part of the day are the most favoured ones, particularly in terms of warmth and light. The drawback is that there could be very dry soil conditions. In the northern hemisphere, the wall that faces the west should be the most favoured of all, since it may escape some of the fiercest sun and will be fractionally less exposed to the coldest winds than most of the other sites.

STAGE 4B 12 FOLIAGE COLOURS PER MONTH INDEX GALLERYDeciduous Shrubs or Trees, Herbaceous Perennials or Bulbs- if that changes from the main colour for instance to a different autumn colour, then it will be in this column and the relevant colour for those months of Win (Winter), Spr (Spring), Sum (Summer) or Aut (Autumn) group as well.Evergreen Shrubs or Trees, Evergreen Perennials - if that changes from the main colour for instance to a different autumn colour, then it will be in this column and the relevant colour for those months of Win (Winter), Spr (Spring), Sum (Summer) or Aut (Autumn) group as well.

DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site.

Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:-This comprehensive book looks at scented flowers and leaves of plants from all over the world. The work has been prepared to the standards of the Index Kewensis, and is filled with the most interesting facts about the scented flora of the world.

I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to The RHS Companion to Scented Plants Hardcover – 16 Oct 2014 by Stephen Lacey (Author), Andrew Lawson (Photographer) ISBN 978-0-7112-3574-8 even though this is the only major reference work on scent and scented plants which is endorsed by the Royal Horticultural Society. See reasons for stopping infilling of previous Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page.

The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines.

Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well.

Colour All The Year In My Garden: A selection of choice varieties - annuals, biennials, perennials, bulbs, climbers and trees and shrubs - that will give a continuity of colour in the garden throughout the year. Edited by C.H. Middleton. Gardening Book from Ward, Lock & Co published in 1938, provides plant data for a calendar of plants in bloom throughout the year and for those in the smallest garden.The Book of Bulbs by S. Arnott, F.R.H.S. Printed by Turnbull & Spears, Edinburgh in 1901. This provides data about Hardy Bulbs, Half-Hardy Bulbs, Greenhouse and Stove Bulbs.

Collins Guide to Bulbs by Patrick M. Synge. ISBN 0 00 214016-0 First Edition 1961, Second Edition 1971, Reprinted 1973. This provides data on bulbs for bedding, bulbs in the border, bulbs naturalised in grass, bulbs in the woodland garden, bulbs in the rock garden, bulbs in pans in the alpine house, bulbs in the greenhouse, bulbs in bowls and the bulb frame.

Annuals & Biennials, the best annual and biennial plants and their uses in the garden by Gertrude Jekyll published in 1916 and republished by Forgotten Books in 2012 (Forgotten Booksis a London-based book publisher specializing in the restoration of old books, both fiction and non-fiction. Today we have 372,702 books available to read online, download as ebooks, or purchase in print.).

The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants described in Sanders' Encyclopedia of Gardening in The Gardeners' Golden Treasury, revised by A. G. L Hellyer F.L.S, Editor of 'Amateur Gardening', (thirty-first impression of original published in 1895) was published in 1960 by W. H. & L. Collingridge Limited, between:-

Stage 3a - All Plants Index Gallery with each plant species in its own Plant Type Page followed by choice from Stage 4a, 4b, 4c and/or 4d REMEMBERING THE CONSTRAINTS ON THE SELECTION FROM THE CHOICES MADE IN STAGES 1 AND 2 (in this Table)

Stage 3b - All2 Plants Index Gallery for Alpines without a Garden for your health and productivity (in this Table)

Stage 4b - 12 Foliage Colours per Month Index Gallery (in Table on right) with column for Deciduous / Herbaceous plants with the same foliage colour during their growing season andcolumn for Evergreen plants with the same foliage colour during the entire year

STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERYIt would be useful if when you decide to change your garden that you use a uniform garden style throughout your garden and the GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY aims to provide pointers. The new pages (April 2016) in the gallery will have a suitable list of plants on each page (as that plant gets further detailed in the ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY), then each row containing that plant name in the GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY will also be updated. I aim to input details of plants starting with A in alphabetical order to Z.

Cannot be bothered. If you wish to improve your productivity and health, then, plant an Alpine Pan in your work area or at home using the information within Alpines without a Garden by Lawrence D. Hills, using these pages:-

You need to know the following:-1. How much time per week are you prepared to look after your garden or prepared to pay someone else to do it for you?2. How much are you are prepared to spend on creating your garden and then on its maintenance for its feeding and replacement of its plants and hard landscaping?3. In order for you to go into your garden, there must be mystery in it, so that from any position in the house you cannot see all the garden, otherwise you will not be tempted to go out into it.4. You must decide what garden style you are going to use THROUGHOUT the garden and make sure of using 3. the mystery in it as well.5. What plants do you want to keep in your existing garden and incorporate into your new garden?6. What Human Problems do you have and what Site Problems are there?

Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay.

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Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house. 2. Clay soil of Garden slopes towards house with no drainage of this rainwater by the house wall.

In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:-1. The ground plan usually depends upon 1 or more unalterable existing features. The position of the doors of the house will dictate the positions of paths, the shortest route to the kitchen may indicate the best place for a paved area for eating and drinking out of doors, or the kept trees/shrubs may indicate what garden style is used.2. Rules of Proportion - A. A border should be roughly 1/2 as wide as the hedge or wall behind it.B. The proportion of planted areas to paved or turfed areas should be 1/3 to 2/3, or a 1/4 to 3/4, not 1/2 and 1/2.C. Within a bed or border, unless a 2-dimensional pattern on the ground is the objective, the height and bulk of the plants should be varied to avoid monotony; it is particularly important to provide strong planting, in terms of either height or bulk or both, at either end of a long bed.D. The ground surface provides a background to the plants that is as important as the hedges, walls or fences that surround it. Grass is perhaps the most satisfying carpet to use, the cool green forming a restful antidote to the dancing colours of the flowers. Use different coloured pea-shingle inside Cedar Gravel for people in wheelchairs, or infirm in their legs or who suffer from Hay Fever.

Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders. ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:-

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After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:-

STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERYClick on Blue or underlined text to jump to page comparing flower thumbnails of that blue colour in the Other Plant Photo Galleries. RedPP is Red, Pink, Purple and Other is Unusual or Other Flower Colour.

Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed.Companion Planting- A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, ZPest Control using Plants

STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERYIn addition to these 10 galleries, there are links to the Other Plant Photo Galleries in the table above like Bulb, which have plant descriptions accessed by clicking a flower thumbnail in its flower comparison page.Click the respective flower colour - likeGreen - to change page to that flower colour comparison page. Then, you can also choose these other plants.It will also state the Plant Combinations for each plant from The Ulimate Visual Guide to Successful Plant Harmony - The Encyclopedia of Planting Combinations by Tony Lord ISBN 1-55209-623-8

STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERYSome extra details about the Cultivation Requirements of Plant:- Outdoor /Garden Cultivation, Indoor / House Cultivation, Cool Green-house Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter, Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year, and Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants

Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.I worked for a lady, who with her husband took 35 mm slides of plants in the 1960's and 1970's. She allowed me to digitise some of her Kodachrome slides, which I have used in my website. I discovered that at least the green colour of the foliage became very much darker over that period of years to 2008, by comparing wildflower photos from her slides with digital photos supplied by a current Wildflower mail-order nursery, so I stopped creating my Foliage Galleries.I bought myself a camera some years ago and started taking photos, some of which have been put into the website. I started taking photos of the Heathers at the Royal Horticultural Society at Wisley garden. I have displayed the Heathers foliage in closeup since their leaves are 2mm long and in macro-scale in the Heather Galleries - sometimes the foliage colour at the terminal end of the foliage stem is only a few leaves, whereas others have the same foliage colour throughout the stem. I discovered that some of the heathers did not have the correct plant label, since the flower colour did not correspond with the flower colour in the literature. I was informed that since kids have free rein, that perhaps they move the plant labels. Since, I cannot rely that the heather plant label next to the heather plant is valid, I have stopped taking photos of those heathers.This leaves a small problem, especially since very few gardens open to the public have their plants labelled so that the public can use the data on their label to buy that named plant from a nursery or garden centre. Currently (June 2018) I insert photos from Wikimedia Commons as well as my own.I have found the above book - which does not contain any colour plant photos. Since it had the following experts help in creating it, I have decided to use its information in these 10 galleries to help the public:-

T.W. Sanders Editor of Amateur Gardening in 1895.

A.J Macself Editor of Amateur Gardening in 1926 - both Sanders and Macself had worked entirely to the handlists published by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

A.G.L. Hellyer in this work of revision and also in checking the all-important cultural notes sought the help of experts in the various classes of plant:-

Mr S.A. Pearce, Assistant Curator at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew undertook the revision of those genera of plants which in this country are mainly grown under glass.

Mr Will Ingwersen dealt with the Rock plants,

Mr N. Catchpole made himself responsible for trees and shrubs;

Mr G.A Phillips for herbaceous plants,

Mrs Francis Perry for water plants,

Mr A.J. Macself for ferns,

Mr E. Cooper for orchids,

Mr J.S Dakers for annuals,

Miss Doreen Crowther for fruit and vegetables

with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet. In this edition of the book Sander's Encyclopaedia, the individual soil mixtures to grow plants have been retained, for it was considered that many gardeners might still wish to use them in certain circumstances. The John Innes mixtures may be substituted wherever desired. Details of these individual mixtures will be put into these galleries.