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My bracket would not slide off until the tension was released on the bar. Then it slid off easy. I do my own adjustments by removing the T panel and propping the doors a little past vertical. Then there is just enough tension on the bar so you can release it all just before the bracket hits the rear window.

I want a jig to hold tension for me so I can use both hands on the bracket. That's the way two people do it. I just plan to replace the person normally standing behind the car with a piece of threaded rod (I'll weld a breaker bar to something the rod passes through that can be raised and lowered by turning a nut underneath it).

I'll keep that in mind. I intend to make a door prop between one of the latches and its Nader bolt -- may as well make the prop adjustable as well (allow the door to be pushed further open if necessary).

You could cut the curved handle off of one of those adjustable canes they sell at drug stores and weld an extension in its place. That way you could adjust it by pushing the buttons in and pushing or pulling.

I recently had to replace all my struts (all, not just doors) and contacted Tom in advance of that. He informed me that Stabilus has quite a slow turn-around, and compared to other markets we're not high on the priority list. He's still actively pursuing the project though.

In another note; I would not recommend the DMC-EU struts. Not that you USA boys would likely consider them due to shipping, but the hood/louvre struts are just too powerful, and the door struts are just not powerful enough.

Moving from my Grady set to the DMC-EU set makes me wish I'd just paid the shipping/tax for a complete set from Grady rather than going for the "local" option.

Hey Josh, Welcome back to the forum. Last I read a bunch of Tomcio's projects were on hold due to some personal difficuilties he's been going through. Hopefully things take a swing in the right direction for him.