Jews of Zakynthos

Uncovering an unforgettable story on an isolated island in Greece.

ZAKYNTHOS, Greece - I needed a break at the end of a long and exhausting semester. My family was off to the southern end of the Balkan Peninsula, to an unknown island in Greece. I decided to join them.

We flew from Tel Aviv to Athens. From Athens, towards the famous sunrise of the eastern isles, we landed on the island of Zakynthos -- "Fiore di Levante" (Flower of the East) -- which is also known by its Italian name - Zante.

During the ride, I read the travel guide, and learned a little about the history, the agriculture, the weather and finally about the poetic origins of the national anthem. I did not read one word about what I was really about to discover on the island. The drive from the airport to our villa lasted a few minutes. From the coastal plateau, we drove up through twisted village bends to our destination.

An old lady, a typical Greek villager dressed all in black, welcomed us with a warm smile into her home. She asked to show us around her beloved mansion. It was obvious that this place was the source of her pride.

The landlady gave us a short tour of the old-style bedrooms, bathrooms and salon. In the kitchen, we noticed the beautiful authentic Greek dishes that were hanging over her antique-looking stove. All these were for our use.

We explained to her that for religious reasons, unfortunately, we would not be able to enjoy using her kitchenware and that we had brought our own.

This is when it all began.

She seemed confused. She looked at my dad and suddenly her eyes lit up. She noticed his kippa. We were asked to follow her out to the garden.

From the high point where we were standing, we saw a fantastic view of the ocean and the ships. But she pointed the other way completely.

She stared at us for a long moment and said: "That is the Jewish cemetery."

Who ever heard of Jews here? My fascinating journey had begun.

I was shocked. We were all astounded. Here we were on an isolated island in Greece. Who ever heard of Jews here?

I tried reminiscing about stories and experiences I had heard from friends who had visited here. Nothing came to mind.

From this moment on until I left Greece, the relaxing summer holiday drinking ouzo on the beach became a fascinating journey. By the end of it, I uncovered an unforgettable story.

The Mystery of 1955

The next morning, I got on my rented moped and drove to the cemetery. The shudder that went through me started when I first saw the Star of David on the little black gate. The trembling grew as I walked in. It was a huge cemetery containing hundreds of graves from the 16th century up until 1955. The grounds were well-kept and little stones were set on many graves, as if they had had visitors recently.

1955. I thought for a moment. Whoever knows the history of Greece and its islands even faintly knows that there was no place struck harder by the Nazis.

Rhodes, Corfu, Salonika, Athens. The loss of Jewish life in Greece was devastating.

From 1944, there were almost no Jews left even in the bigger communities.

I did not, however, understand the meaning of the "1955" grave, and decided to investigate.

In a small house that stood in the heart of the property, I found the cemetery keeper, a third generation of custodians of the Jewish graveyard in Zakynthos. My inability to speak the language prevented me from having a deep conversation with him.

I sought to continue my search for the Jewish history of this town, and within five minutes I was at City Hall.

When I told the clerk at the front desk what I was after, he asked if I had already been to the synagogue. The question was posed casually, as though it's asked on a daily basis.

"Excuse me?" I thought I hadn't heard right. "A synagogue on this island?"

He gave me directions.

The synagogue was located on a busy road in the center of the island. Off the main street, in a space between two buildings, was a black iron gate, just like the one I had seen not long ago at the cemetery. Above it was a stone arc with an open book. It read, in a loose translation from the original Hebrew, "At this holy place stood the Shalom Synagogue. Here, at the time of the earthquake in 1953, old Torah scrolls, bought before the community was established, were burned."

Through the locked gate I saw two statues. Judging by their long beards, they looked to me like rabbis. The writing on the wall proved me wrong: "This plaque commemorates the gratitude of the Jews of Zakynthos to Mayor Karrer and Bishop Chrysostomos."

Who were these people? What happened here?

What was the acknowledgment about? Who were these people? Why the statues? What happened here? I had lots of questions. I had to find a lead, if not an answer. I returned to City Hall, excited and trembling.

I approached the clerk, who already recognized me, and started questioning him about what had happened here. He referred me to the mayor's deputy on the third floor. I found his room, knocked at his door and asked him if he would spare me a few minutes. He willingly accepted.

Names for Nazis

Half an hour later I came out with this:

The governor of the German occupation asked the mayor for a list of all Jews on the island.

On September 9 1943, the governor of the German occupation named Berenz had asked the mayor, Loukas Karrer, for a list of all Jews on the island.

Rejecting the demand after consulting with Bishop Chrysostomos, they decided to go together to the governor's office the next day. When Berenz insisted once again for the list, the bishop explained that these Jews weren't Christians but had lived here in peace and quiet for hundreds of years.

They had never bothered anyone, he said. They were Greeks just like all other Greeks, and it would offend all the residents of Zakynthos if they were to leave.

But the governor persisted that they give him the names.

The bishop then handed him a piece of paper containing only two names: Bishop Chrysostomos and Mayor Karrer.

In addition, the bishop wrote a letter to Hitler himself, declaring that the Jews in Zakynthos were under his authority.

The speechless governor took both documents and sent them to the Nazi military commander in Berlin. In the meantime, not knowing what would happen, the local Jews were sent by the leaders of the island to hide inside Christian homes in the hills. However, a Nazi order to round up the Jews was soon revoked - thanks to the devoted leaders who risked their lives to save them.

In October 1944, the Germans withdrew from the island, leaving behind 275 Jews. The entire Jewish population had survived, while in many other regions Jewish communities were eliminated.

This unique history is described in the book of Dionyssios Stravolemos, An Act of Heroism - A Justification, and also in the short film of Tony Lykouressis, The Song of Life.

According to tour guide Haim Ischakis, in 1947, a large number of Zakynthinote Jews made aliya while others moved to Athens.

In 1948, in recognition of the heroism of the Zakynthians during the Holocaust, the Jewish community donated stained glass for the windows of the Church of Saint Dionyssios.

In August 1953, the island was struck by a severe earthquake and the entire Jewish quarter, including its two synagogues, was destroyed. Not long afterwards, the remaining 38 Jews moved to Athens.

In 1978, Yad Vashem honored Bishop Chrysostomos and Mayor Loukas Karrer with the title of "Righteous among the Nations."

In March 1982, the last remaining Jew in Zakynthos, Ermandos Mordos, died on the island and was buried in Athens. Thus the circle of Jewish presence came to its close after five centuries.

In 1992, on the site where the Sephardic synagogue stood before the earthquake, the Board of Jewish Communities in Greece erected two marble memorial monuments as a tribute to the bishop and mayor

.

The Missing Money

A few days before I had planned to leave the island and return home, I went into a bank to convert some dollars into euros. But even in a simple place like a bank, I managed to add another piece to this Jewish puzzle.

A clerk who had been on the phone and eating a sandwich, called on me when my turn came. When I gave her my dollars to be changed, she handed me the converted money in an envelope without asking for any identification.

Later on, when I opened it, I was surprised to see so much money.

The money that had been put into the envelope had not been counted properly, and instead of changing $1,000, she had given me the equivalent of $10,000!

This was really no surprise to me, because the clerk hadn't paid me any attention.

Ultimately, however, once the bank realized that the money was missing, it would have no way of reaching me since no contact information was requested.

The following morning, I called the bank and asked to speak to the manager. I inquired to know if there was a problem with the previous night's accounts.

"You must be the woman with the dollars," he said, immediately inviting me to his office.

An hour later, I was at the bank. When I walked into the office, the man sitting across from the manager moved to another chair and gave me his seat.

I shared my bank experience with him, saying how easy it would have been for me to disappear with the money.

The manager himself was profusely apologetic about the unprofessional way I was treated and thanked me repeatedly for returning the money.

"You don't owe me anything. Indeed, you have given me and my people a lot."

To express his gratitude, he invited me and my family to dinner at an exclusive restaurant. I explained that eating out was too complicated for us due to the fact that we were observant Jews.

He asked for my address so he could send us a crate of wine.

"That is a problem too," I said.

I told him I had come from Israel a week ago for a holiday, but had gotten sidetracked.

"A few days after I landed, I was surprised to discover the Jewish community that was here up to 25 years ago," I said. "You don't owe me anything. Indeed, you have given me and my people a lot. The least I can do as a Jew to show my appreciation for what you have done for the Jews of Zakynthos is to return this money that doesn't belong to me and say, 'Thank you!'"

There was silence for what appeared to be a long minute.

The man who had given me his seat when I walked in and hadn't said a word during the conversation, stood up with tears in his eyes, turned to me and said:

"As the grandson of Mayor Karrer, I am extremely overwhelmed and want to thank you!"

Visitor Comments: 37

I am so very moved by this article. I am an emotional Jew and am so thankful for anybody who was brave enough to save my people so that we can go on sharing our stories of survival.

(35)
david rooks,
December 31, 2011 4:02 AM

an old story brings new healing.

I am a realtor on Maui, Hawaii. My grandfather was from Zakynthos. My grandmother was a German Jew and I always thought what an odd couple. Their relationship didn't last and with that separation many questions remained unanswered. Today at an open house I met a lady from Australia. We spoke briefly about the house and she mentioned she was headed to Greece. Her family was from Zakynthos. As we spoke she told me this story. It has such great meaning to me. How could we meet on a little island in the middle of the pacific. Two people in this big world with ties to each other from a little island half way across the world. Was she sent to me so I could hear and learn of this story? Was I sent to her so she could see her fathers eyes again as she looked into mine?

(34)
Freantles,
September 13, 2010 11:03 AM

Memories from a bloodfull era

Very nice and immotional story!
It's notable that the totalitarian semifasist, but not antisemetic regime of Ioannis Metaxas, with the aid of the Archbishop of Athens Chryssanthos and the chief of the police Evert, some months before Nazis attack to Greece, issued many fake "christian" identity cards for the jewish people of Athens.
The Rabbinate of Athens collaborated very good.
Unfortunately, the rabbinate of Salonica was very negative on the same plan for the salvation of the most glorious and intellectual jewish community, probably of the whole Europe.
This is an information from my uncle, who was a high officer of the Greek Police during the Metaxas regime and a very close friend of king George II, who was, like the dictator Metaxas, an ardent projewish person. Both were distinguish freemasons and strong antinazis.
The Greek Army under Metaxas, destroyed the fascist Italian-Albanian invasion and stoped the Nazis for many days, at the notorious Metaxas Line of Macedonia.
The jewish people of Greece gave his best "thanks" to our fatherland, with the blood of the first dead high rank officer of the Greek cavalry, the heroic Chalkidean colonel Mordehai Frizis. At his last moments a greek orthodox military priest, offered him the religion services reading passages from the Greek Leviticon and Deuteronomy.
Our common Father bless them.

(33)
,
August 13, 2010 5:17 AM

This is a great story, reminiscent of the old traditions; but not all that surprising in an ethical society!
Fairly rare today... as a rule!

(32)
William,
April 28, 2010 12:10 AM

What a wonderful story! I wonder how many more such hidden, or forgotten, communities exist in Europe or elsewhere.

(31)
Anonymous,
February 5, 2010 2:37 AM

WONDERFUL

THIS IS WONDERFUL

(30)
Anonymous,
January 16, 2010 3:44 PM

Dearest Wally, Thank for sending me the wonderful story. It isbeautful and so so wonderful. I am so glad you shared this with me.........Your loving friend.....Sarann

hank for sending me the wonderful story. It isbeautful and so so wonderful. I am so glad you shared this with me.........Your loving friend.....Sarann

(29)
,
January 14, 2010 2:44 PM

beautiful

(28)
Warren,
January 14, 2010 2:31 PM

goodness exists

As a person who builds Holocaust Memorials in Belarus, it is admirally refreshing to read stories of such bravery. The entire isk=land's population should be proud of how they stood up to the monster Nazis. May g-d bless them all.

(27)
Pleasant,
January 11, 2010 7:29 AM

This I like.

Alot.

(26)
George,
January 10, 2010 10:56 PM

Jews of Greece

What a beautiful story you have shared with us, and so wonderfully told. With every new line, we as readers held our breath as we joined you from one moment to the next. My name is George and although I now live in Australia, I'm a Greek Jew, with a long history of family life in Greece and further back to Constantinople. Originally from Spain, our early family's from 400 years ago were kicked out of Spain, and sent away to any nation that would have us. Our family ended up in modern day Istanbul, and as our sir name suggests, we made things of gold. Its a long story, but after some years of peace, trouble again had use banished out of Constantinople, to Greece. As history unfolded and mentioned in your story, when the Germans came to Greece, we again were left homeless and devastated ( in my mother and fathers years ).. and migrated to Australia where we live in peace. What a journey it has been and I can't tell you how fascinating it is to sit and listen to Dad, or my mother tell me the stories of days long gone. Again your story was touching and rich with heart and soul, I hope to read much more from you. G

(25)
Jacob Arar,
January 10, 2010 7:08 PM

Aristotelis from Zakinthos

We are always interested to hear what you have to tell about your grand father in Zakinthos !!! Rabbi Jacob Arar , rabbi of Athens Greece .

(24)
Martin,
January 9, 2010 10:33 AM

Thank you!

Wow! I have tears in my eyes.

(23)
sandie bernstein,
January 8, 2010 4:01 PM

Another amazing story

This is a gift and it goes with our finding our way to the former Jewish community of Hania iin Crete and their synagogue. Better yet, your story is of survival and such courage from righteous gentiles.

(22)
Aristotelis,
January 8, 2010 12:21 PM

Dear... i am sorry i can not find your name,
This is Aristotelis, from Zakynthos. I found your text brought memories that even us, people from the island know but... again it is nice to hear it from someone from the outside.
My Grandfather, Georgios Mothonaios was the doctor of the comunity. I will be very happy to tell you about stories he told me if you are interested. Please e-mail to me.
Aristotelis

(21)
Anonymous,
January 8, 2010 6:44 AM

very touching story

very touching, Zakinthos is a beautiful island

(20)
,
January 7, 2010 10:29 PM

very moving

it is always so uplifting to read of heroic stubborness that saved Jews.
too bad it didn't happen more often!!

(19)
Anonymous,
January 7, 2010 3:13 AM

beautiful

What an uplifting story! Thank God and thanks to the good people of Zakynthos.

(18)
Anonymous,
January 6, 2010 7:56 PM

where can you get the book "An act of heroism - a justification"?

(17)
,
January 5, 2010 9:46 PM

WHAT A KIDDUSH HASHEM!!!

(16)
mary,
January 5, 2010 5:21 AM

I'm so touch with this story.Jewish really are honest people

(15)
alla,
January 4, 2010 9:06 PM

beautiful story

Thanks so much for sharing!

(14)
Anonymous,
January 4, 2010 5:59 AM

story

Fantastic ! What an incredible experience !?

(13)
reuven robinson,
January 4, 2010 1:51 AM

What a profoundly amazing story

What a profoundly amazing story. It enrichs all who have read it and reminds us all of how much we owe to those gentiles who do righteous deeds according to their faith.

(12)
Haim,
January 4, 2010 1:36 AM

Gratitute

One of the first ships to arrive on the island after the earthquake came from Israel carrying the following message , "The Jews of Zakynthos have never forgotten their Mayor and their beloved Bishop and what they did for us"

(11)
Rabbi Alan Ira Silver, M.D.,
January 4, 2010 1:19 AM

Strengthening of Greece's Spiritually Impoverished Jewry

Today, Greece's small populace of Jews are being spiritually enriched through the efforts of a young Chabad couple located in Athens. Through this couples tireless efforts, a weekly Shabbat Torah portion sheet is printed, Chanuka candles are given out, Tu B'Shevat seders, large Pesach seders are held, Shabbat meals are offered to the public, and a decent sized kosher food products list can be found on their website at www.chabad.gr . The Chabad shaliach also goes around to all the different Jewish communities to help them organize minyaneem as needed. As of 2010, for the first time in over 60 years, fine kosher wines will be produced in Greece. The "only" kosher catering in all of Greece is provided by this couple prepared by a professional chef, packaged & shipped to wherever you are located.

(10)
Ari,
January 3, 2010 11:54 PM

Hessed and reward

Great article showing that even in the midst of utter darknes, unexpected acts of hessed can happen.
It seems there is more to the special bond between Zakynthos and Jews. In 1953, a major earthquake hit the island. The first boat to arrive
with aid to the victims was from Israel, with a message that read, "The Jews of Zakynthos have never forgotten their Mayor or their beloved Bishop and what they did for us."

(9)
Beverly Kurtin,
January 3, 2010 11:49 PM

Wonderful!

For the first time in a long time I have tears flowing down my cheeks. When I think of the heroism of the mayor and the Bishop, I give thanks to Hashem for having such marvelous people save some of our people. It is particularly poignant because so much of Greece is steeped in Jew hate, and to see brave people such as those two righteous men turn even the Nazis from getting their Jews...it's overwhelming. I know there is a special place for them in the world to come. My family comes from the Ukraine and Poland where Jews were avidly given up to the Nazis. If, G-d forbid, those days came again, those people would do the same thing all over again. Forty-seven of my relatives were enslaved and murdered by the Nazis because they didn't think that the Holocaust would happen; I still shake my head in disbelief that they didn't get it. However, I am filled with Joy that some gentiles were heroes and save so many of our people. Am Yisrael Chai!

Peter,
September 8, 2011 1:25 AM

"steeped in Jew hate"?

Dear Beverly, please explain why it is that you think "so much of Greece is steeped in Jew hate"? As a Greek-American who visits Greek quite often, has many Greek relatives and friends in Greece, and has traveled the country quite extensively, I'm shocked that you have this opinion, and would like to know upon what it is based. While there are instances everywhere of individuals stereotyping and harboring racist ideas or ethnic/religious intolerance, it is hardly the norm or the popular sentiment of Greeks in Greece and abroad. It pains me that you make such a broad generalization and stereotype in your comment, especially attached to this article that is conveying a beautiful story that is in such blatant opposition to your remark. If you are referring to pro-Palestinian sentiment that is popular in the media and among the populace, please do not confuse that with antisemitism. Greeks are able to separate the political from the personal, I believe we'd all be a lot better off if we did so, and if you were to visit Greece you would be overwhelmed by the hospitality you'd receive, as a Jew, or any fellow human being.

(8)
David S. Levine,
January 3, 2010 9:07 PM

A Wonderful Story

This is one that needs to be told. It's really amazing! I'm glad to have read it and am still wiping the tears out of my eyes. This should be emailed to all your friends and to every Hellenic-American you know!

(7)
Ike Semaya,
January 3, 2010 6:03 PM

Fantistic story of the history of the Jews of Zakynthos.

As a Sephardic Jew whose parents were from Monastir and migrated to the US through Salonlka, it gives me great pride to learn of the wonderful people of Zakynthos.

(6)
Dovid,
January 3, 2010 5:45 PM

Doing the right thing! WOW!

What an astonishing story of this Greek island. They are
truly Righeous Gentiles. So glad author got to meet the
grandson!!!

(5)
ruth,
January 3, 2010 3:30 PM

the Jews of Zakynthos

Amazing story. When I read such stories, and there are many, particularly on Aish.com, I feel the marvel of how these stories seems so perfect, meaning they do come, full circle. Dare I say, these stories seem for me, to indicate a profound and Divine direction and for me, I see a storyteller that is God, and these stories so move me, as we are so moved.

(4)
jerry faich,
January 3, 2010 3:29 PM

fabulous story

It is heartening to hear such a story. Sadly it happened only rarely. In the cities of my parents birth, now in Ukraine there was no such protection and survival.

(3)
Shosh Kohan-Argentina,
January 3, 2010 3:08 PM

This article

Dear Editor, I am proud of having sent this to you.As I always do .I cannot contribute financially-But I am a tireless Israel defender. I spread every important item to friends and enemies alike.
So, you are welcome.

(2)
rachel kapen,
January 3, 2010 3:02 PM

The Story told in Michal Shalev's Rahamim

I found the article especially poignant recently reading Michal Shalev's book: Rahamim in which the island of Zakynthos is prominantly featured.

I just got married and have an important question: Can we eat rice on Passover? My wife grew up eating it, and I did not. Is this just a matter of family tradition?

The Aish Rabbi Replies:

The Torah instructs a Jew not to eat (or even possess) chametz all seven days of Passover (Exodus 13:3). "Chametz" is defined as any of the five grains (wheat, spelt, barley, oats, and rye) that came into contact with water for more than 18 minutes. Chametz is a serious Torah prohibition, and for that reason we take extra protective measures on Passover to prevent any mistakes.

Hence the category of food called "kitniyot" (sometimes referred to generically as "legumes"). This includes rice, corn, soy beans, string beans, peas, lentils, peanuts, mustard, sesame seeds and poppy seeds. Even though kitniyot cannot technically become chametz, Ashkenazi Jews do not eat them on Passover. Why?

Products of kitniyot often appear like chametz products. For example, it can be hard to distinguish between rice flour (kitniyot) and wheat flour (chametz). Also, chametz grains may become inadvertently mixed together with kitniyot. Therefore, to prevent confusion, all kitniyot were prohibited.

In Jewish law, there is one important distinction between chametz and kitniyot. During Passover, it is forbidden to even have chametz in one's possession (hence the custom of "selling chametz"). Whereas it is permitted to own kitniyot during Passover and even to use it - not for eating - but for things like baby powder which contains cornstarch. Similarly, someone who is sick is allowed to take medicine containing kitniyot.

What about derivatives of kitniyot - e.g. corn oil, peanut oil, etc? This is a difference of opinion. Many will use kitniyot-based oils on Passover, while others are strict and only use olive or walnut oil.

Finally, there is one product called "quinoa" (pronounced "ken-wah" or "kin-o-ah") that is permitted on Passover even for Ashkenazim. Although it resembles a grain, it is technically a grass, and was never included in the prohibition against kitniyot. It is prepared like rice and has a very high protein content. (It's excellent in "cholent" stew!) In the United States and elsewhere, mainstream kosher supervision agencies certify it "Kosher for Passover" -- look for the label.

Interestingly, the Sefardi Jewish community does not have a prohibition against kitniyot. This creates the strange situation, for example, where one family could be eating rice on Passover - when their neighbors will not. So am I going to guess here that you are Ashkenazi and your wife is Sefardi. Am I right?

Yahrtzeit of Rabbi Moses ben Nachman (1194-1270), known as Nachmanides, and by the acronym of his name, Ramban. Born in Spain, he was a physician by trade, but was best-known for authoring brilliant commentaries on the Bible, Talmud, and philosophy. In 1263, King James of Spain authorized a disputation (religious debate) between Nachmanides and a Jewish convert to Christianity, Pablo Christiani. Nachmanides reluctantly agreed to take part, only after being assured by the king that he would have full freedom of expression. Nachmanides won the debate, which earned the king's respect and a prize of 300 gold coins. But this incensed the Church: Nachmanides was charged with blasphemy and he was forced to flee Spain. So at age 72, Nachmanides moved to Jerusalem. He was struck by the desolation in the Holy City -- there were so few Jews that he could not even find a minyan to pray. Nachmanides immediately set about rebuilding the Jewish community. The Ramban Synagogue stands today in Jerusalem's Old City, a living testimony to his efforts.

It's easy to be intimidated by mean people. See through their mask. Underneath is an insecure and unhappy person. They are alienated from others because they are alienated from themselves.

Have compassion for them. Not pity, not condemning, not fear, but compassion. Feel for their suffering. Identify with their core humanity. You might be able to influence them for the good. You might not. Either way your compassion frees you from their destructiveness. And if you would like to help them change, compassion gives you a chance to succeed.

It is the nature of a person to be influenced by his fellows and comrades (Rambam, Hil. De'os 6:1).

We can never escape the influence of our environment. Our life-style impacts upon us and, as if by osmosis, penetrates our skin and becomes part of us.

Our environment today is thoroughly computerized. Computer intelligence is no longer a science-fiction fantasy, but an everyday occurrence. Some computers can even carry out complete interviews. The computer asks questions, receives answers, interprets these answers, and uses its newly acquired information to ask new questions.

Still, while computers may be able to think, they cannot feel. The uniqueness of human beings is therefore no longer in their intellect, but in their emotions.

We must be extremely careful not to allow ourselves to become human computers that are devoid of feelings. Our culture is in danger of losing this essential aspect of humanity, remaining only with intellect. Because we communicate so much with unfeeling computers, we are in danger of becoming disconnected from our own feelings and oblivious to the feelings of others.

As we check in at our jobs, and the computer on our desk greets us with, "Good morning, Mr. Smith. Today is Wednesday, and here is the agenda for today," let us remember that this machine may indeed be brilliant, but it cannot laugh or cry. It cannot be happy if we succeed, or sad if we fail.

Today I shall...

try to remain a human being in every way - by keeping in touch with my own feelings and being sensitive to the feelings of others.

With stories and insights,
Rabbi Twerski's new book Twerski on Machzor makes Rosh Hashanah prayers more meaningful. Click here to order...