By choosing to post the reply below you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Message:

Trackback:

Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Post Icons

You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:

No icon

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register. Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Click here to view the posting rules you are bound to when clicking the'Submit Reply' button below

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Click here to view the posting rules you are bound to when clicking the'Submit Reply' button below

Topic Review (Newest First)

10-31-2010 01:37 PM

Thorp

Thank you.

I'm spec'ing out the sheaves and have a couple questions. One sheave is bigger than the rest but I am not sure of the reason or if I need to follow suit. Three of the old sheaves are 2.625" and the last is 4". The big one was on the starboard stern side and is for the main halyard. My only thought is that their may be more load on this sheave and that is why it is bigger. No mechanical advantage is gained. These sheaves were for wire. I am most likely going to run line. It is more convenient to get four of the same and maybe a spare than to have an odd ball. Is it important to keep the main sheave larger for some reason that I am overlooking?

And what diameter halyard do I need?

Any recommendations on where to buy halyards, bossons chair, things of that nature?

I ended up buying this boat. No remorse what-so-ever. It is my first boat- it is everything I was looking for and more. She has definitely been some work but in doing this work, I am building a connection with her and learning her ins and outs. Wouldn't have it any other way.

The first 'big' ordeal has been the sheaves. The sheaves in the mast head were seized. I scaled the mast but wasn't able to get them loose while up there. They were really stuck. The mast has a tabernacle and the next step was to lower the mast to be able to get at those sheaves better. Nerve racking as **** the first time through but we managed without a hiccup. Got the sheaves out and now it is time to purchase new sheaves and clean out the mast head. Any advice on a spray to help clean the head out? A wire brush will be my primary. And any advice on what to install, sheaves and line wise? I think I am going to side with all line halyards vs line to wire. Seems much easier, straight forward and without a downside but my knowledge on the topic is nil.

This has been about the only thing going my way in life, presently. Gotta get out of the box and do it. Sometimes that box looks as those it is 6 inch thick steel. In reality it is paper thin and punching a hole through it is effortless when in the right mindset. Happy sailing.

10-22-2010 02:22 PM

Waltthesalt

Look for hull blistering

09-21-2010 08:40 AM

eherlihy

Things to check;

Clear Title - no yard fees or anything else. Make sure that the seller understands that you expect a NOTARIZED bill of sale, should the sale complete.

Keel Bolts - should all be present, and not corroded. - If possible, check the keel to see that it cannot move with relation to the boat.

Chainplates - make sure that they are solid, and firmly anchored where they belong.

Rigging - should be serviceable, but not new (and not mickey-moused).

Sails - raise them at the dock. There should not be holes, rips or tears.

Ask at the marina office if the owner is up to date on his account.

Even though the boat is only $1700, a survey would still be advisable.

Here is an illustration of why:

Here is a picture of two of the keel bolts in the bilge, as I saw them when I first looked at the boat;
Yes, the bilge was dirty, but I figured that I could clean that up.

During survey, I noticed that the keel didn't quite look right. To me, it seemed that the keel was off center about ľ". Here is a pic that I took during the survey of the keel stub joint;

Several people present (yard manager, broker, and IIRC even the surveyor) said that was normal. I persisted and the surveyor and I eventually discovered that the keel could rock side to side about 1/8". The survey came to an early end.

... and here are the exact same pair of bolts after the keel had been dropped;
You can see another keel bolt to the left that is in similar condition. Of the eight keel bolts, THREE were OK. The keel bolt in the right of this picture is an example of what I consider to be OK.

Bottom line is that this repair is costing the current owner (not me!) over $8K to get this fixed.

Good luck!!

09-21-2010 07:53 AM

RNC725

Congrats

Methinks as long as there are no gaping holes and such......have fun and go sailing!

If money can fix it -- it ain't broke!

Fairwinds

Bobby Centers
1967 Cal 30

09-21-2010 07:46 AM

tommays

Well

I would sure do some serious poking as Cals do have there issues

09-21-2010 12:09 AM

RTB

Quote:

Originally Posted by jackdale

Hire a surveyor to check it over.

For a $1700.00 boat?

If it floats, go sailing!

09-20-2010 11:08 PM

jackdale

Hire a surveyor to check it over. The results of his findings should be a condition of sale.