I've placed heat sinks on the stepper motors as suggested and ordered a couple stronger fans. I'll post back once I've tested out the scenario. I am am hesitant to Dremel-out the cooler shrouds, but will do so as a last resort.

As a follow-up, I've noticed the left extruder seems to jam more than the right extruder. I believe this is due to the nozzle actuation motor limiting the air flow behind the heat sink on the left side. This further supports the theory that heat is just not being dissipated from the hot end as it needs to be.

Thanks for all the information! We are collecting all the information listed here and trying to do internal test from our side.If you meet any problem with Dual-extrusion, please let us know which side is fine and which side is clogging and which filament is at which side.Thanks a lot!

A simple Mod allowed me to print an 15h print without clogging...Please see attached Picture. I placed an USB Fan pointing at the Extruderunit.With the Fan and after hours of print the Motors are then much cooler.I will design an Fan-Holder for both Motors and im sure that the clogging will be gone.

Hello, Try the following changes in Idea Maker:To the changes:in the profile when slicing, settings I have changed the following.Advanced settings:extruder; Minimal Travel of Retraction. set to 4mm.andooze: Avoid Retraction Inside ModelHacking must be in there.Now you should not have any problems unless the pressure clogs the Troate Tube. But I also have a solution for that.Let me know if it has achieved anything.

New to 3d printing. Decided to change out the nozzles on my Pro 2+. Going to 0.040 hardened steel. Have the nozzle back in but noticed some filament stuck in the throat. It is ColorFab Bronze. Is there a safe way to get this out. I was thinking about getting a small drill bit and drilling it out but not too sure that is the best decision.

New to 3d printing. Decided to change out the nozzles on my Pro 2+. Going to 0.040 hardened steel. Have the nozzle back in but noticed some filament stuck in the throat. It is ColorFab Bronze. Is there a safe way to get this out. I was thinking about getting a small drill bit and drilling it out but not too sure that is the best decision.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Heat the hotend and dredge the throat tube with steel wire attached inside the accessory.

I had terrible jams using 3DX-Tech CarbonX Gen2. Also Makerbot Tough PLA. I concluded there was very poor cooling due to the inadequate heatsink - airflow combination. I designed and machined copper water cooled heatsinks and discarded the big fan. Just finished the install a few days ago. I haven't tried the problematic filaments yet, but the new heatsinks are infinitely more efficient than the air-cooled ones. They are barely above room temperature with the hot end at 250 C. I posted more on this earlier in the hardware section with few pics. Doesn't matter how hot the interior of the printer gets with water cooling.

I think Vicky had this same reply in another post, and she said they replaced the hot end with a new identical hot end. No new design. Just a new unit. And for some reason that fixed the issue. This is not comforting. Doesn't sound like the root cause has been discovered yet.

I'd like to ad Push Plastic PLA to the list of PLAs that are not compatable with the Raise3D Pro2.

I've done all the fan mods except for the Nema fans, I've reduced my temps, increased my flow % and still have ran into 3 consecutive jams at the cost of a few bucks material each time and a whole lot of frustration.

@Vicky - What are the best recommendations for running alternative PLAs on the machine outside of what I've already tried?

walleywalker wrote:I'd like to ad Push Plastic PLA to the list of PLAs that are not compatable with the Raise3D Pro2.

I've done all the fan mods except for the Nema fans, I've reduced my temps, increased my flow % and still have ran into 3 consecutive jams at the cost of a few bucks material each time and a whole lot of frustration.

@Vicky - What are the best recommendations for running alternative PLAs on the machine outside of what I've already tried?

All the filament listed in our Open-Filament program are certified and tested by both the manufactory and us.