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This chopper has been through a number of hands before Jason purchased it in Queensland. Problem in Queensland was, no import paperwork, therefore "No registration sir!"

Consequently, he found me on the net and asked what could be done.

Unfortunately, due to the authorities' attempts to reduce rebirthing, a bike without paperwork for it's frame, cannot be registered in SA either (it's a federal issue)... a similar problem we have with the Triumph Thunderbird.

One new frame needed and then a swap over of the running gear. Here's Jason on his RevTech chopper last weekend...

As you can see, the frame on this chopper is really nicely designed and built, but unless we do a bit of a shonky with it (which being law abiding gentlemen we won't), we need to put all the running gear into a new frame with an MSO. The most economical being a Kraftek frame, here seen in the foreground...

Jason gets stuck into pulling down the chopper happy to at last be getting it on the road after three years of frustrating ownership...

Our engineer will be up during the week to have a squiz and get the paperwork underway. We won't need to do any structuaral changes, just removal of and adding of brackets to suit Jason's bits...

Jason rolled up on Wednesday and got straight into pulling more of his chopper apart.

Separating the motor and gearbox was a challenge, because every bolt so far has been heavily locktighted and the clutch basket retaining nut was no exception. A six foot bar wouldn't shift it. Neither would the rattle gun. I have wanted to get a ¾" rattle gun for years, but they are pricey, so I occasionally borrow a local mechanic's. However we were able to remove the front pulley and made a puller to remove the rotor which was preventing removal of the gearbox/inner primary combination, because everything is such a tight fit. Finally made it and put the motor into the new frame... which is an even tighter fit...

Next step is to tighten down the two rear engine mounts and check the front ones with a feeler gauge in case the engine mounts are not perfectly parallel. AS it turns out they are spot on... the finest blade will not slide in...

Out attempt to fit the gearbox, revealed a difference between the two frames. The 12mm offset of the gearbox is not needed for the Krafttech frame...

It was easy enough to pull off the spacer ring on the inner primary, but the offset steel hub in the pulley defied, banging with a heavy hammer and drift and heating and so far WD40. I can only assume that they used high temp Loctite on this one. I now have it soaking with WD40 and if I have no joy tomorrow will try Penetrene. If that doesn't work we'll have to drill out the ¼" allen bolts. After looking on Rivera Primo's website it appears we can buy a non offset hub, but with luck we can just machine up this one... time will tell. Another option may be another pulley, but this one is 45 teeth and everything my suppliers and other contacts have been able to find are 46 tooth pulleys...

We were unable to make any more progress on the front pulley, so set about aligning the rear wheel with the gearbox. Once lined up using a straight edge, I machined up a small aluminium spacer to add to the existing spacer. A double check revealed we got it right, so we then shortened a supplies spacer by 2.5mm which has set the wheel just right. Shown here the spacer has been blacked and marked with a height gauge. Some more playing around with a straight edge, established the centre of the rear frame and the wheel works out to be spot on centre...

A view through the original frame to the new chopper so far...

Jason hopes to be up on Monday and will check the oil tank for fit and then start cutting off brackets and then mounting the fuel tank. We will get all the components except the wiring loom mounted on the new frame and then dismantle and paint the frame. Jason is an ex panel beater/spray painter and has some cool ideas for his frame colour to complement the existing paint scheme on the rest of the chopper.

We heated up the bolts (counterbored ¼" socket head cap screws) first... which didn't work. Then we heated u the hub... really hot without melting the alloy pulley... no luck!

I am awaiting a reply from J&P cycles and also Cruiser Customising who both advertise Rivera Primo drives. K&M in Richmond SA have a 'battered' 45 toother for $20 so I'll get Jason to pick that one up just in case we can use it. In the meantime will see if the other suppliers mentioned can give us any joy.

Jason was up yesterday and today cutting off brackets and sorting out oil tank and rear guard mounting. Brackets (white arrows) have to be cut off. Speedo cable hole (purple arrow) will be filled with a welded in solid bar...

These also to be cut off. He'll be setting up a sprung seat with a front hinge...

Custom tank is mounted from top, so this bracket (white arrow) will be removed. Lower front of tank hits set post (purple arrow) and needs reshaping...

Stuart getting in on the action...

Setting up the guard position. With wheel full forwards we need 12mm clearance. Measurements are made and then the wheel is moved to the rear and rear clearance also set up. Jason got the guard bolted at the seat level. He just needed a 5mm spacer and had to drill new holes with a step drill. Then he and has began to set up a new bracket for the lower front mount. Part of the lower old one has been cut off and Jason is fabricating a new mounting piece...

A 1½" cut was made at the bottom front panel of the oil tank. The front was then heated and tapped in with a hammer on a piece of one inch pipe to give a smooth curve. Then the bottom was reshaped and the cut fusion welded...

The engineer wants to see the frame when all brackets have been welded on. Frame can then be painted and we can then put it together and take it to Regency to get it passed. Then he reckons he'll ride the heck out of it...

Rear Guard...
New holes were drilled in the guard to match the existing frame mounts. Rear guard brackets will be temporary for getting through Regency. We'll build a sissy bar once registered. So these are fabricated out of 25 x 6. They will be painted. A couple of bends are needed on the left side to clear the belt drive pulley. Taillight/indicators are off a current model Harley. Also a temporary mount.

Right side is a simple straight bar with a slight bend at the bottom...

You can read on other posts on TCS forums of how to set up the ends to look tidy. Centre line of bar is first marked in and then the same distance (12.5mm) marked from the end. Centre of mounting hole is punched and then a dividers used to mark a nice circle which is where we cut the end curve...

Mounting fuel tank is next...
Jason spends some time trying different angles until he is happy with the look. Front mounting is via a pair of 5'16" UNF threaded bungs we make up on the lathe.

Tank level is found by setting up a carpenter's square (white arrow) on the side of the wheel (blue arrow). A straight edge (red arrow) is then set up on the bottom of the tank. The two are aligned by eye and the bungs welded in.

The rear mount is a single threaded bung that will just fit under the backbone. The backbone shape is basically milled out of the bung

Light blue line shows depth of first cut. Red lines show 2nd & 3rd cuts. Dark blue line will be fourth cut. and so on.

Round shape is finialy ground out with angle grinder. You can skip the milling by carefully cutting with 1mm cutting blade on the angle grinder. Mill just makes it more accurate.

tack welded in place...

Forgot to take a pic of the tank mounted. Will do it tomorrow and put it in here.

Oil tank, brake master cylinder and exhaust mounts next and then we'll install the front end and get it on the ground.

Time to catch up on Jason's work.
Front oil tank brackets (on seat post) don't match new frame and are cut off. Brackets on other frame are cut off and welded in position...

They are not strong enough for my liking, so we add in some small triangular sections. Straight edge is used to keep them in line.

Threaded bungs on top of top tube are completely cut out instead of being ground off because they protrude right down into the frame and will prevent us from running an internal wiring loom...

Large holes re plugged with solid bar...

Plugs and frame need to be chamfered so we get full weld penetration. Wires are to prevent plugs falling into holes at beginning of welding...

Despite full welding, this is still a weak spot especially considering its position on the backbone; the most stressed spot...

A 4mm plate is shaped to the od of the top tube. Ends are shaped to a point. This is important as a weld straight across a tube creates a stress point. Doing a fish mouth or bringing plate to a point reduces this tendency...

Jason liked the idea of a bit more rake, so after determining that we would stay within the 550 RidikulusRool, we decided on 3 degree raked bearing cups. These provide true rake not false rake (derake) you get with 'raked triple trees'. Bearing cups spent overnight in the bottom of the freezer. They will be 'pressed' in with the 1" diameter threaded bar. As an extra precaution, we lock them in with 'Bearing Mount'. Cups have to be carefully aligned; punch marks are provided...

Some gentle tapping with a small hammer as we tighten the threaded rod, helps start the bearing cups...

Screwing them in. The quicker the better before the cold is trasfered...

Installed...

Now the exciting part. Installing the front end and getting the chopper on its wheels!!! Wow! Jason falls in love immediately.

Now to measure up for steering stops. Using after market ones is not an option as Jason undertands my explanation that the more lock you can get with a long front end, the more manoeuvrable and easy to ride a chopper will be.

Forks are turned to each side until they just clear the tank and marks are made. Piece of paper allows us to measure 'on the curve'. A 6mm flat bar is bent to the right curve and length...

... and tack welded into place. Turns out perfectly...

Chopper will now stay on the ground as we complete seat and pipe mounts and make sure EVERYTHING fits. Once it is completely assembled it will be dismantled, welding is completed and frame moulded and painted. Here Jason has machined up an aluminium spacer so the original ignition/engine mount can be used...

After a most frustrating and time consuming search Jason finally takes ownership of a non offset centre for the front pulley. After trying every method under the sun, Jason drills out the old socket head cap screws. Now how hard will it be to separate the old centre from the pulley. Will this little press be ok? Well I'll be the damn thing falls out with no effort at all! New centre is installed with new screws and slipped onto the motor.

Gearbox bolts are very tight on the slots awhihc actually need to be lengthened about three mil. This is done with a die grinder and burrs are removed with a minibelt sander.

Tins have now been painted and frame got done today... more pics soon.

This has been a good read so far, excellent work. I wouldn't mind knowing how much the whole exercise will have cost including frame, engineer and labor and any other cost. It would give people an idea on the cost if someone else wanted to go down that or similar path.

I still can't post photos, but Jason took his chopper for its first ride a couple of days ago. Now for final engineers check and then to Regency for Govt inspection. I'll get rest of posts on this build up when server gets fixed up.