There was a Jew in my old unit, a convert, and we used to say things like that to him.
“Hey Gary, ham is half off at the commissary!”
“I’m a Jew, I don’t eat ham.”
“Yeah, but it’s half off!”
He was a good guy. Took a midget home from a strip club once. What a degenerate.

I have mentioned previously that [nominally Catholic] DeGaulle turned a blind eye to the massacre of Catholic Resistance by Communists after the “liberation” of France.

Though somewhat oblique and failing to specifically mention the disproportionate number of Catholics killed, this is the first such reference I have discovered in any English language history:
“…when the 1944 Normandy landings and the subsequent German withdrawal suddenly opened the doors of power to the anti-Petain forces, they engaged in an orgy of ideological bloodletting probably without precedent in French history, far surpassing the infamous Reign of Terror of the French Revolution, with perhaps 100,000 or more civilians being summarily butchered on the basis of little or no evidence, often just to settle personal scores. Some of the worst of the bloodshed came at the hands of the Communist exiles of the Spanish Civil War, who had found shelter in France after their defeat and now eagerly took an opportunity to turn the tables and massacre the same sort of “bourgeois” class-enemies [read “Catholic anti-Communists“] who had defeated them in that previous conflict just a few years earlier./…”

Drywall screws work really well. Read about a guy up here who had a beef with a local PD a couple of years ago. He snuck up to the walled-off parking lot behind the police station and threw handfuls of drywall screws in amongst the police vehicles. It played havoc with the vehicle tires. They eventually put two and two together and caught him. There is a lesson here.

Without any other specifics of your situation I’ll just mention that I could swear someone in this part of the blogosphere awhile back did a review with suggested uses of the MURS-band based series of cameras & sensors. Don’t have link; might’ve been one of the commo-focused folks but can’t say for certain. Brand might’ve been Dakota Alert line of products. Perhaps they can chime in.

Dakota Alerts are not reliable. I have three; driveway, front deck, back deck. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t and with no discernible pattern. Rain or shine they’ll work and then under identical conditions they won’t. I would never rely on one in a life or death situation.

Fiberglass cloth and the resin/hardener, using the “cross” weft/weave on the cloth with resin and hardener between each sheet to an inch thick. An aerospace engineer did this back in the 1980’s and tested it with M-2 ball black tip 30’06 and it stopped the round, YMMV.

There is the commercially consumer available plexiglass called lycra or something similar. Bulletproof and used in all kinds of retail establishments.

Think of these as organic concertina. Whatever your climate zone is, there is likely an appropriate plant that can be incorporated into a well thought out perimeter. Think of how you can use the annoying Chollo cactus or the prickly pear: https://www.desertusa.com/cactus/cholla-cactus.html

As plants take a bit to get established, now is a good time to get started.

Its what they made all the hedgerows out of in Europe and there’s a reason why….its a mean, tough thorny shrub that when woven together and trimmed into a wall you need a bulldozer to get through it. Machetes would take a few hours.

Thorny,
Whatever plants work, is what is best for that concept. In the right climate, bamboo makes for excellent barriers/screens. That works both ways, though. All obstacles do.
No matter where a person is, there is usually an agricultural extension program in the given Oblast/State to provide helpful guidance and lists of appropriate plants for the purpose. Here is a starter:http://pickyourown.org/countyextensionagentoffices.htm
Here is an example from the Democratic People’s Republic of New Yorkhttp://cce.cornell.edu/

Hawthorne and wild rose are good. Depending on the area, there are all sorts of living barriers possible. in the desert, there are all sorts of cactus.

Around my AO locust is widespread, extremely tough, thorny, almost impossible to kill without chemicals, and can be woven into a virtually impenetrable hedge. Bonus is that the trunks of larger trees make extremely strong and rot-resistant fence posts.

Bamboo grows almost anywhere there is sufficient water, and it is also virtually impossible to kill. Clumps of bamboo make no-go islands that can channel attackers nicely. Makes nice fishing poles and antenna supports, among other things.

Cholla is also called jumping cactus because it shoots the thorns at you. Not really, but from personal experience it sure seems that way. Also parts of cholla will fall off and fill nearby ground with more danger.

Obstacles exist to cannelize threats and shape their maneuver into areas where effective fires can target them. The doctrinal effects are: turn, fix, block, and disrupt. Fires and obstacles must be integrated to have the desired effect. Obstacles not covered by fires and observation are ineffective regardless of their composition.

Fixed site obstacle defensive belts can be constructed from a wide variety of materials. They are best arrayed in depth to provide stand-off and require repeated breaching efforts.

In rural areas the abatis is a classic way to block a road using chainsaws or pioneer tools to cut trees. See FM 5-34. A similar effect can be achieved in urban areas with overturned cars, old tires set alight, dumpsters…limited only by imagination and availability of tow trucks, fork lifts and othe material handling equipment.

Barbed wire and short pickets can create an array of easily concealed tanglefoot obstacles. That same barbed wire can create a head height obstacles. Barbed wire is cheap and available at any farms store.

A supply of 16d and 20d nails, fender washers and fence staples are useful fasteners for building obstacles.

Almost anything can be used to create obstacle effect. The important thing is siting them along natural lines of drift and high speed avenues of approach so they achieve the desired effect: turn, fix, block, disrupt.

Defensive obstacles is a case where skill definitely trumps gear because the materials Allan be heavy and expensive. Creative use of available materials, along with some basic wire entanglements usually works well. Integrating observation, fires, and obstacles is the most important task.

If it works for you, fine. But don’t threaten others with your version of make believe, we’re not all into the same forms of brainwashing.
Some people outgrow childish notions of Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny, or a holy savior ensconced in the clouds, others dig their hole deeper to where it becomes a mental disorder.

Whole lotta thinking, studying, and homework–then DOING for each involved here. When I was in Texas, landscape was flat and went for miles w/o obstructions. In Ohio, on a few hundred heavily wooded acres AND hills with deep ravines, my whole ballgame changed. Layered defenses–tweak as needed. ALWAYS think like the enemy–where’s my weakest link? Then cure it.

CA, you addressed dogs elsewhere as I recall. Seems that the main thing is 1) have several, and 2) main purpose is for early warning. Cats don’t quite cut it, sad to say.

Are any categories of things otherwise missing? Looks like static barrier/obstacles, sensors and active rovers so far.

If you need super inexpensive “alarms” that trigger when something tumbles across it, just look to a dollar store or pet store for the motion activated pet toys. A typical example is a thermoplastic rubber spherical cage with a battery powered mousie squeaker inside. Put them where if a door opens, that gets disturbed or use a few of them to make a field of noise makers.

I have built one using a 9v powered motion detector with alarm, wired to a pace counter per the design. The specific models of what you use are not so important, and it is not a lot of $$$ to make one.

That site has some really involved stuff on it for the serious DIY types.

Most defenses will only be useful against raiders and the like either in a SHTF scenario or during Rooftop Korean level of sportiness

If the bad guys roll a bunch of Abrams out to the ranch, the best defense is to not be there unless you are sitting on a bunch of ATGM’s and know what you are doing

Still the most important defense is often knowing who is coming as nearly any barrier can be breached with time.

Cameras and motion detectors are essential life savers in perimeter defense and even cheap ones can let you know someone is coming.

Many can be rigged to a laptop or phone though I’d be cautious with the included software.

They are a near must in rural environments because even 15 fighters can’t patrol a large spread ,

They also have the advantage of social acceptability everywhere even in cities and are fine in times of sportiness ranging from “Rooftop Korean” all the way to “Its On!”

Another option are COTS drones , they come in several quiet models that are easy to fly and again these are socially acceptable. Spending a bit of time flying one , studying terrain and the like attracts little attention and is a useful skill.

Being able to sneak a peak from above can give a defender a large advantage and commercial drones are nearly as capable as some military ones though fragile and sometimes a bit expensive

Also most people do not have access to private islands as tfA-t claims too. This setup would be, subject to having manpower, ideal but a lot folks, most are urban

There really aren’t much in the way of defenses against some things , you need several miles, at least 2 and a half to be safe from say a 60MM mortar and bigger stuff is simply something you can’t do much for

Skill wise probably wouldn’t hurt to know how to make say an old school tank trap in case the bad guys have an MRAP , a technical or something

Even commercial drones are also difficult to defend against unless you see them coming and are an excellent shot. A commercial DJI for example has a theoretical ceiling of near 2 miles though legal limits are 400 feet

Last, dogs and geese. Old school and very effective at early warning and sometimes “soft offense” against lightly equipped bad guys and again are socially acceptable which can be a huge advantage when you are being a Grey Man

How many of us can really prepare a battlefield with communicating trenches, bunkers, tanglefoot, concertina wire, latrines and defilade the entire thing without neighbors and electric company personnel ratting you out to the Fusion Directorate?

I would imagine if one were to try and find their way to tFat’s island, it would be much like Marlow’s experiences in Conrad’s Heart of Darkness. The closer one got, the further from humanity one travelled. And after all of that toil, only to discover at the end of the road, tFat is in fact Kurz.

As effective as walls/barricades can be there is a downside — you are sending a message that there is something inside worth protecting. That leads to being that any half ass measures will not suffice. Either you make it strong, hard and painful for the interloper or don’t spend the time and effort.

After you get all the prep fantasy’s out of your head think about having to survive without all you have set aside for a week or two.

Air first, then water, then shelter, then food, then weapons. Wheels? If necessary can you get to distance on a dead do or die run. How? Can you kill with your bare hands with a makeshift garrote, screwdriver shiv, baseball bat, broken bottle or car. Where are the major neck, groin and armpit arteries that will bleed them out in nine seconds. How deep are they. Can you use close quarter chokes and escapes, neck brakes, chin jabs. arm locks and heel drops to explode internal organs. Can you fight on the ground and win. Can your wife or children escape a pin down during a rape attempt and turn it into certain death for the attacker or a knife to throat stand off or a bear hug capture. Where are the most sensitive pain points. Can you fight knife to knife and win and only lose a pint of blood. What do you do with a rogue cop that has you in cuffs or a choke hold.

I can do all of the above and more with about ten or twelve techniques. I trained in the clothes I would most likely fight in. Never train in a Gi or Dojo or on a mat. If you are a women better learn to fight with a dress on and not worry about being exposed. It could cost you your life or virginity. And train in confined spaces: bedrooms, kitchens, offices, automobiles. Train where you will fight. And do not use your feet for any kicks unless you’re an expert. It could cost you a broken leg and then your life. That crap only happens in the movies and pro contests. But a knee to the groin can be a fun thing for a woman. Man or woman if running makes sense; then run. If you’re a man you’ll have to live with your reason. Redo’s in that case, are allowed.

Does your family have instructions and training to escape without you. Is there a way to tell each other what they need to know. So what do they need to know? Can your ten year old drive a car on a practiced route. Can your wife or twelve year old handle the knowledge of how to siphon gas and steal a car of any year. Think twice about that; it’s pretty wild stuff for them.

Well, your training will give you confidence and that will show in how you handle yourself. Don’t think that your size or weight will save you. It won’t against a trained close quarter fighter. But the chances of you having a MMA fight at SHTF is astronomical. But still, learn the basics. You never know.

Forget all the BS you see in the movies and use common sense. Any MA that wants to teach you more than 12 techniques to do all of the above is blowing smoke. Use common sense and your own experience. Is what he’s showing you possible in real life. Does it work fast and furious. Does it look phony? It probably is. Use your head. The real deal works and it will turn you into a killer. The phonies just take your money and waste your time while they teach you to spar in unreal conditions. That isn’t reality. You should be trained to be a death threat to anybody that won’t back off or gets between you and what you hold near and dear. Without all the weapons of a soldier on patrol.

And be careful with the chin jabs in training. I gave my teacher a 3 hour migraine with an inept minor open palm chin jab. He was always gun-shy after that and p o. Have your sparing partner hold his fist just in front of his chin to practice your jabs on without breaking his jaw or worse. And shadow jabs help. Both hands. Center of torso straight up hard and fast in SHTF. Done right, this is a kill shot. Be sure that’s what you want to do.

You learn the above and I’ll go learn soldiering. I hardly know one end of a gun from the other. And I’m still laughing at the bullet size of a 5.56. But learning woods craft is going to be fun as soon as I get all the stuff together.

I’m a city boy and a bit fearful of the deep woods but that’s where I’m going in NW, MT to get over my trembles. I’m hoping to find a spot for the opening two weeks of whats coming. I think after that we better start taking territory are die in our holes like rats.

You will learn 90% of everything you really need to get started. The rest you can pick up as you go.

The other day my sister was saying to my father and I, “You know those buzzards that nest in the old silo? Well, I saw one of them flying lazily toward those pines over there, and when it was about two thirds of the way there all of a sudden this bird – this really small bird, I mean maybe the size of a robin – flew straight out of the pines, straight at the buzzard – I mean arrow-straight, I’ve never seen anything like it, and -”

Dad and I both exclaimed, “Kingbird!”

You’ll learn about kingbirds, and lots of others. You’ll learn about recognizing tracks, and how to look for them, and all sorts of bird calls and animal calls. You’ll learn how to tan a hide and sew up some moccasins and dig an “Injun well” for clean water. You’ll learn all the stuff that boys on this continent grew up knowing by lifelong experience and reflex, until TV and Doritos pulled them all inside.

Did some cockpit breach training post 911. Fending off and defeating atracks from a seated position in close quarters was very good training. Bare hands and improvised weapons with what was available in reach. You’d be surprised what you can do. Used a portion of it on an aggressive 6’3” orc one time, with surprising efficiency. Pissed himself, literally, as he was no longer fully in control of his thoughts or functions after three or so seconds. Not a story he shares with his fellow coproaches, I am certain. But like the man says, know what you know and walk with confidence.

4′ pieces of scrap pipe and conduit cut at 60 degree angle on both ends, use a piece of rerod as a tool rest to drive into the ground at a 45 degree angle. Was done in Vietnam with bamboo, this will give vehicles problems. Also common fiberglass driveway markers cut the same way, a foot long make great ankle hookers.

I was thinking of building a wall or berm using old tyres and filling them with dirt. Make it 2 tyres deep for good measure. This would make a cheap bullet resistant barrier. For the folks with the $ you could fill the tyres with concrete for extra strength. I like the use of thorny plants for area denial as others have mentioned here. When the spicy times hit the caltrops, punji pits, and the fougasse will all be great DIY partisan options.

“I like the use of thorny plants for area denial as others have mentioned here.”

I don’t, because I have a lot of them, and I know just how easy it is to get them out of the way. It takes 5-20 years depending on the plant to turn them into a barrier, and it buys you a couple hours. Not a great return.

If you are planting various thorn bushes or fruits to form hedge rows or barriers ,plant an occasional Lilac bush in the row ,Rabbits love lilacs so you have something for the stove and if you are forced to go thru the hedge row you know the lilac is the easiest path

The lights are too high. It would be better to have them lower so the intruders can’t pin point where they are. If they only turn on when a sensor detects movement, I would still mount them lower and separately, as parts of mannequins holding toy guns. The mannequins would be positioned where they would be partially visible from the vicinity of the sensor. If feasible (namely weather proof equipment) I would also have the lights rotate to sweep an arc using an electric motor. I would have a few locations per mannequin so that they can be repositioned. They would be placed out after nightfall and brought in before dawn. The positioning would be randomly assigned each night and security personnel for the night would be told the specific locations at the start of their shifts.
Along with all that I would I would also have portable loudspeakers that could be hidden in the weeds or bushes several metres from the lights and would broadcast a bark of dog or a barely audible phrase if a light came on. The phrase would be for one night “Tom call Joe” and “John call Mark” the next night. The broadcasts could play only once a night per light and each night would have a randomly selected broadcast.

Consider the following: why would anyone want to transgress on the sanctity of your space? what are you doing that may irk TPTB? are you making yourself bait for local street criminals, or a nation state adversary? Are you being realistic in your assessment? getting this wrong means that you are wasting time/resources/energy.

Doing the proper mind work ahead of time is very important. Do you really need to spend all your effort trying to counter an edge case scenario? How about a delusion?