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Having issues with wireless connectivity? The problem could lie inside the AirPort Board.

This guide will show you how to replace the AirPort card installed in the display frame of the Early 2009 and Mid 2009 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody. This guide does not apply to the Mid 2010 and Late 2011 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody. The AirPort card in the later models is mounted beside the optical drive.

Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

- remove the assembly and flip it over

- again carefully remove the shielding tape

- undo 3 tiny screws

- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.

-I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well

2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends

1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE

These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.

Be sure to use Loctite on the screws when re-attaching the bottom of the computer. The screws can and will fall out once they have been removed for repairs if you do not put Loctite on them when you reuse them. Otherwise, purchase new screws before repairing the computer as the new screws come with Loctite material on them. (I have personal experience with this problem.)

I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

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Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits.

If present, grab the plastic tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the device. For Late-2011 models the battery connector will not have a tab and is simply a plug that inserts straight down into the motherboard--to remove pry the plug straight up.

If the plastic tab is missing, use a spudger to pry the connector up from its socket.

This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.

As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.

Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.

I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...

I just put an SSD in a model #A1297 - MC226LL/A and the battery connector had to be removed by pulling it parallel to and away from the logic board — in other words, not up. I was definitely a bit confused when I tried to pull it up.

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Before disconnecting the camera cable, a small plastic retainer stuck to the logic board must first be moved out of the way. In late-2011 models you can skip this step because there is not a plastic retainer on the camera cable connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to push the small plastic cable retainer away from the camera cable socket for enough clearance to remove the camera cable.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the thin plastic cover off the top and sides of the Bluetooth board housing. For late-2011 models check out the other picture because the connector location is in a totally different location.

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Lift the black plastic flap attached to the display data cable retainer and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the MacBook.

Pull the display data cable out of its socket.

The display data cable socket is very fragile. Do not lift the connector upward as you disconnect it, as the socket may break off the logic board. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

I viewed a YouTube video showing this process. There was a warning about the stripping of the Torx screws being common on this mid-2009 model MBP. Is that something you have come ever across? It's the only thing holding me back from attempting this myself. TY in advance!

Taking those hinge screws out can be difficult (they are fat, and they resist turning). In my first attempt I destroyed the Torx screwdriver bit (soft metal, I discovered, so the bit twisted into a corkscrew before it snapped off). After buying the ifixit screwdriver set I found that the driver bits were tough enough, but the screws still would not budge! So, I used a small mole-grip wrench to hold the metal part of the screwdriver, and GENTLY turned until I felt the screw give way with a click. Luckily, the threads did not strip. However, if you find that even with that extra torque from the wrench, it is still resisting in a big way, go one more step and try a very tiny drop of thread-loosening fluid on it. (That last suggestion, however, is risky, so be careful.... do not let any fluid get anywhere except the screw, and then give it time to work).

I just did this now (11:21 am, Sept 18 2014) A tip for removing glass bezel on the frame if you don't have a heat gun. I used a very sharp but super thin razor (the one for shaving) and slice the adhesive. Be careful not to hit the lcd. After slicing all around, get any thin plastic card and slide it all around the bezel until the glass comes off. I have a mid 09 macbook pro 17" that had a broken lcd and a 2010 macbook pro i7 17" that had a logic board problem but good lcd. Both A1297. I did it twice using my method.

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Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

During reassembly, fit the display into place and install the display bracket Torx screws, then close the lid and lay the laptop upside-down to check the alignment of the screen to the body. If necessary, loosen the screws and realign the display before tightening.

First, note that the clutch cover has a somewhat “D” shape. Be sure to orient it so that the curved face is towards the screen and the flat face with the beveled corner is away from it. It’s not very obvious in the picture.

I had to use this guide for a 15” MBP because I didn’t see one for that model. I don’t know if the 17” is similar, but just in case: on the back edge of the screen (in the aluminum), there are some small indentations with slots to the left (if the screen is facing you as it is in the picture). When putting the clutch cover back on, be sure to line up the small plastic tabs in the clutch cover with those indentations so that they’ll properly slide into the slots when you slide it ¼” to the left. The plastic is fragile and easily broken.

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Move the AirPort board bracket towards the bottom of the display case with the tip of a spudger so that it does not block the AirPort board cable.

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the AirPort board cable by rocking it back and forth until it is free.

The AirPort board connection cable can be inserted both ways. The two sides of the connector look slightly different. However, inserting it upside down will cause a short circuit upon power on and damage the logic board and/or Airport board, so be careful to note the correct orientation.

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Just a note for anyone looking at this guide with a MacBook Pro 17" mid 2010 model (2.6GHz) - this is the wrong guide for your laptop! Search for the MacBook Pro 15" mid 2010 Airport board replacement guide instead. The card is located on top of the optical drive rather than in the bezel - something i found out the hard way when following this ;)

i have changed wifi card and says the same. because i have a macbook pro 13 late 2011, i have test the wifi board on both mac, and only works on mbp 13. but i have changed the cable from wifi card to the main board card from the mbp13 to mbp 17, and then works.

so, i can see that what does not work from the mbp17 is the cable, not the wifi card.