December 4, 2017

Front Burner

By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The argument against stollen — the sweet German Christmas bread made with fruit, nuts and frequently marzipan — is that it’s often quite dry. But not in the hands of Zachary Golper, the baker and an owner of Bien Cuit in Brooklyn. He bakes a broad cushion of dough covered in sugar that’s decadently buttery, swirled with toasted almond marzipan and studded with bits of prune. It redefines stollen. The bakery has them on hand but accepts advance orders: Plum and almond stollen, $18, until Jan. 1, 2018; Bien Cuit, 120 Smith Street (Dean Street), Cobble Hill, Brooklyn, 718-852-0200, and Grand Central Market, Grand Central Terminal, 212-697-0526; biencuit.com.