Approach

Route Description

To locate the start to 'Falling Star', continue left from the start of 'Elephant Walk' an additional 100 feet and find a 1" crack ascending the rock face. This is the start of 'Falling Star'.

NOTE: The standard bolt pattern established at Tollohuse is set conservatively. In other words.....most climbs are runout. This route is no exception. Use good judgement.

Pitch #1 (5.8):

Start up the crack (pro up to Metolius #5 or #.5 Cam Jr). As the crack begins to peeter out (5.8 crux), head up and right to a ramp leading to a right facing corner (#1 Camelot). From the corner, head up and over a small, slightly flairing roof (poor pro, 5/8 Alien best option). Pass the small roof on it's left (2nd crux 5.8). Continue climbing up and slightly right, passing 2 bolts along the way. A two bolt belay (200 feet) is encoutered at the end of this pitch. This pitch ends at 'Wandering Taoist's anchors. As seen in the Sequoia Kings Canyon guide, the route originally headed a hard left after the roof....creating huge rope drag and runout for 40 feet. The last 2 bolts of this pitch were installed to create a more direct and ethstetic line....without the rope drag!

Pitch #2 (5.7R):

Start by ascending directly above the anchor, moving over sloping dishes and good edges, clipping 4 bolts along the way (180 feet). The first bolt is 30 feet from the anchors and the remaining are about the same distance in between, so scan the rock carefully.

Pitch #3 (5.7):

Traverse out right then up to a bolt (5.7). (Note: DO NOT HEAD DIRECTLY ABOVE THE BELAY, if you want to continue up the original route.....this is a 5.8+ variation pitch.) Clip the bolt and ascend a small left facing corner (may accept #1 Metolius TCU) to another bolt 30 feet above (there is a bad bolt next to a newer bolt...still not pulled and badly damaged). Pass three additional bolts along the way. As one climbs this pitch, the features slowly disappear and climbing becomes strictly steep friction. Locate a two bolt hanging belay (150 feet).

Pitch #4 (5.7):

Start directly up from the achor and pass a left slanting crack (the end of the Tollhouse Traverse). The crack can be protected by a #3 Metolius Cam. Pass the crack and up an obvious line of bolts (3 total). After the last bolt, head up and left to the end of a large right facing corner. Locate a two bolt achor on top (100 feet, hangers with cold shut links). Notice: there is a two bolt hanging belay about 30 feet to the right of the above described bolts........IGNORE THEM!

Finish by ascending a 3rd class crack past the 4th pitch anchors to the summit of Tollhouse.

Additions and Corrections

This was originally a rappel route to the base of the cliff to avoid the primeval bushwhacking. "You know, I bet this thing could be climbed." Additional bolts were placed on rappel between the anchors to create a climbing route. The name was suggested because it follows a long arc down the face of the rock. When one of our star climbers fell on the third pitch during the first ascent "Falling Star" became all the more appropriate.

Posted May 23, 2005 12:05 am

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