Yosemite
Big Wall Climbing Info
Yosemite is big wall paradise. The walls are enormous, the rock
solid, and the weather ideal. Below I have offered a primer to
help you plan a Yosemite big wall adventure. I have also included
some personal tips and techniques and the gear I am currently
using. Enjoy!

Yosemite
Big Wall Skills
Yosemite offers short practice aid routes, 3000-foot A5 nightmares,
and everything in between. No matter what you plan to climb, you
will need basic free climbing and aid climbing skills before you
arrive in the Valley. Train in both a climbing gym and your local
crag and read our How
To Big Wall Climb Book.
Consider purchasing Road
to The Nose, a guidebook that offers advice on training for
Yosemite big walls and also includes numerous topos for moderate
routes. For a more complete selection of big wall routes, check
out Yosemite Big
Wall SuperTopos.

A
great first aid lead. Some of the placements are a little awkward
but they are generally secure.

Good
First Big Wall Climbs in Yosemite
Below are five moderate Yosemite big walls. None of these climbs
is easy and you will need to have your aid skills wired before
attempting one. Most of these climbs are included in the Road
to The Nose guidebook.

Good
Long and Moderate Big Wall Climbs
After climbing a few shorter big wall routes, you may be ready
to tackle the biggies: Half Dome and El Capitan. Listed below
are some of the most classic Grade VI big walls in Yosemite. Take a look at the list of climbs to develop a good tick
list of great Yosemite climbing routes. Check out our list of Yosemite's 40+ best big wall climbs

Chris
McNamara's Aid Rack
Here are the two aid racks I use most often on Yosemite big walls.
I have also included a checklist of what to bring on multi-day
walls. I did not include a rack for a sample A4 nailing route
because nailing racks vary wildly depending on the route. Keep
in mind that everyone prefers different gear and my rack not necessarily
the best rack for you. Also, I tend to go light and you will probably
carry more cams, nuts, pitons, etc. Here is a detailed description
of basic
wall gear and protection or a description of haul
bags, portaledges, and bivy gear

Anchor
Conditions
Since 1997 the American Safe Climbing Association has replaced more
than 800 bolts in Yosemite. Some anchor information is available
for certain climbs on the route
beta pages. For the most up-to-date information on each routes
anchors conditions, visit the ASCA
web site.

The
Leaning Tower at sunset.

Photo:
Chris McNamara

Yosemite
Essentials
In the sections below, we attempt to list information that will
help ensure that your climbing trip to Yosemite is enjoyable and
hassle-free. For starters, let us note the location of the National
Park system's web site for Yosemite: Official
Yosemite National Park Web site

When
to Climb
Yosemite has some of the best weather of any climbing area on earth.
That said, note that it could storm at any time in Yosemite, and
often heavily. Climbers should always prepare for the worst on big
walls by bringing adequate bivy gear (see Staying
Alive). The best times to climb are in the spring and fall.
The summer can also be great once you get a few pitches up and out
of the heat. In the winter, the Valley empties of both tourists
and climbers, giving a much more pristine feel to the climbs. Winter
can have good climbing weather but can also have months of uniquely
wet and severe Sierra storms.

Current
Weather and Road Conditions Current road conditions and weather reports for Yosemite
area destinations can be found below:Yosemite
Valley weather  five day forecast of Yosemite ValleyYosemite road
conditions  or call (209) 372-0200

SeasonsNov. 15March The walls and Valley are relatively
empty with usually at least one five-day spell of good weather per
month. On any winter ascent prepare for the absolute worst, as Pacific
storms can last up to a week or longer and bring heavy snow and
rain. The driest and most protected routes are on Washington's Column,
Leaning Tower and the Southeast Face of El Capitan.

Month

Average
Rain

Max/Min
Temp (F)

January

6.35"

47/25

February

6.64"

55/26

March

5.87"

58/30

April

3.29"

65/34

May

1.48"

71/39

June

0.51"

80/46

July

0.29"

89/50

August

0.06"

89/50

September

0.55"

82/48

October

1.68"

72/39

November

3.49"

57/30

December

7.10"

49/26

AprilMay 15 Walls and the Valley are still uncrowded,
but there is a 50/50 chance of getting either good or miserable
weather. This is also the time of some of the wettest Pacific storms.
You should still stick to walls on Washington's Column, Leaning
Tower and the Southeast Face of El Capitan.

May 15June Perfect weather and big crowds both in
the Valley and on the walls. Almost every route is dry.

JulyAug. The Valley is still crowed with tourists,
but the walls are uncrowded. While Valley floor temperatures are
often in the 90s and 100s, temperatures on the walls 500 feet
above the Valley or higher are usually comfortable in the 70s
and low 80s. Be prepared with plenty of extra water.

Sept.Nov. 15 The Valley is crowded with tourists and
walls are crowded. Mostly cooler weather with an occasional heat
wave. The first winter storm usually arrives in late October or
early November.

Related Big Wall BooksCamp
4 - Steve Roper's definitive book on Yosemite climbing history
from the beginning to 1970. A must read.Defying
Gravity - This book is less personal and authoritative than
Camp 4 but covers a broader period of time and has more photos.El
Capitan - Dan Duane picks a handful of Yosemite personalities
and explores what made them tick.Vertical
World of Yosemite - A collection compiled by Galen Rowell of
the best Yosemite first ascent accounts.How to Big Wall Climbs - The most current "how to" aid climbing book written
by Chris McNamara.Yosemite
Big Wall Obscurities - This free download includes hand-drawn
topos of obscure Yosemite big walls. NOTE: these topos are of dubious
accuracy.