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Description

This fine route may remind you of climbing in Tennessee, with its long vertical hand crack. Long, fun and well-protected, but the neophyte 5.7 leader might find it intimidating.

Start in the big corner, or on the flake right of the corner; move up until you can transition to a nice vertical crack system in the left face. Continue up the crack until it ends under a big roof, then make a traverse left and up to end at the left end of the roof.

Location

Starts at the back end of the Amphitheatre in a big corner. Two-rope rap from fixed gear.

Protection

Small to medium cams, passive pro. Some big pieces are useful in the starting crack. Build a gear anchor.

Felt really good. Difficult sections of the route are about 10 feet below the roof. Traverse can get a little sketch for a 5.7 leader, but it is a solid fun route. There is a spot for a BD #3. A 60m rope will get you back down to the ledge 3 feet off the ground so no real need to double rope this one. Anchors were replace not too long ago.
Sep 30, 2010

Three stars only because it's interesting, not really for the quality of climbing. Crux as mentioned is about 10-30 feet below the roof, where the gear can be tricky if you don't know what to expect. There are options available, but it's classic Moore's finicky gear, and if you happen not to have the right pieces can be scary. Some #2/#3 cams to protect the traverse are useful. Overall definitely worth doing, but not one that will make your day...if you're looking for a warmup or have time for just one last climb, do Wailing Wall instead.
Apr 30, 2016

The gear on the crack is really easy- it is smooth enough to take cams well in a lot of places. The gear in the roof is a pain in the ass, because the climbing is several feet below the placements.
May 16, 2016

Looking back at this I'm surprised no distinction has been made about the traverse at the top. There are two ways to do it:

1) climb way up under the upper roof and get gear the whole way. This is better protected but is awkward and kind of a pain.

2) head directly left using a good foot rail as soon as you've pulled up from the face through the first roof at the top of the crack. Handholds are sparse and you'll have to go a little further than you like (10 feet?) until you get a sorta dubious small cam, particularly for someone closer to their limit. Still, this is my preferred path as it's not unreasonably difficult and only a couple moves to the gear. After that it's pretty juggy and a really good small cam placement is nearby. This traverse is likely too low to merit climbing up and placing gear in the crack at the base of the big roof overhead as it's probably 10-15 feet above you although I've never actually tried this.

If you take this option be sure to keep followers in mind as the pendulum could be pretty extreme if the gear isn't placed.
May 18, 2016

Great climb! Very fair and straightforward for the grade. This is not a sandbagged lead. The climbing is smooth and full of definite hands and feet. Protects well, too. That is, until the traverse... But that's part of the deal. It's funky, but a great great time. Don't hesitate to do this one!
Jul 23, 2016

Fantastic Route. Expect the typical Moore’s grading as it is stout for a 7. Some beta for the traverse. Once the crack stops giving good holds and you have to pull the crux of the route, and you end up and a decent stance maybe 10-15 feet below the roof you are at the place to traverse. There is an awesome hand rail to your left and a good foot rail. None of the traversing is harder than 5.5. There is also a place for a .75 Camalot and .3 camalot during the traverse.
May 26, 2018