USP connectors such as joist hangers, joist angles, joist supports, stud shoes, skew hangers, and face mount hangers used for connecting these hangers and connectors are described, their uses explained, and their applications and specifications linked.

A Photo Guide to Metal Joist Hangers, Bolts, & other Connectors Used in Deck, Porch & other Building Framing Construction

Our page top photo shows a hybrid deck structure that encompasses a boat.

No fasteners were found securing the boat to the deck however.

At minimum, all structural hardware for decks should be
hot-dipped galvanized steel. For the best protection, use
stainless steel (see “Joist Hangers and Connectors,” below).
At connections carrying structural loads, such as deck
ledgers or railing posts, use through-bolts or lag screws.

How to Make Secure Post to Beam or Girder Connections for Decks & Porches

For the strongest connection of beam to post, place the
support beam directly on top of the posts (photo at left), rather than bolting them to the side, so the full load is transferred to the
posts.

To keep the post in place and to prevent any twisting or shifting, the connection should be reinforced with
steel strapping, a steel connector, or a treated plywood cleat.In general, notching a 4x4 post will leave too little
wood for an adequate connection [but notching a 6x6 post can work, as illustrated below]..

For a more
streamlined appearance, joist hangers are acceptable.
Make sure the hangers and nails are approved by the
manufacturer for use with the new types of pressure-
treated wood (ACQ or ACZA) and fill all the holes in the
hangers with properly sized nails. In general, nail into the joists with 1 1/2-inch joist-hanger nails and nail into the
beam with 10d to 16d common nails, as specified by the hanger manufacturer.

Notching a 6x6 Post to Support & Connect to a Deck Beam

A double 2x beam can rest on a notched 6x6 post, as shown. For the strongest connection of joists to the support beam, the joists should sit on top of the beam

In our photo the 6x6 post was notched to leave a thick component that could be through-bolted (or lag bolted) to the girder. You'll also see toe-nails up through the post top into the girder bottom, and additional common framing nails securing the post to the beam.

Don't cut the notch out of the center of the 6x6 post for a double 3x beam - the remaining lumber on the post top will be too thin and risks splitting and failure.

Using a scab to tie deck posts to girders

An alternative to using steel framing connectors to tie a post to a beam is shown at left. A scab(green arrow) using 2x lumber is secured to the girder and to the post below.

But in our photo the installer put the scab on just one side of the post, and used just 10d common nails for fasteners.

To be secure, the scab should be bolted to the girder and through the post as well. Through-bolts (illustrated below) are stronger and should be used where possible.

For the heaviest connections on a deck, such as
where ledgers attach to the house or to posts, use 1/2-inch
bolts or lags.

A look at the other side of the deck girder (beam) above shows that the builder must have been short on nails. We don't see nails securing the two 2x10's together - at least none on this side (a weaker construction method), and we see no fasteners making any attempt to tie the girder to the post top.

Everything relies on that 2x6 scab that was ticky-tacked to one face of the post and beam. We recommended the addition of through bolts.

When drilling holes through a scab or other framing member, and if multiple bolts are to be installed (red circles on the scab in the photo at above left), I [DJF] like to stagger the bolt hole positions in order to assure that no two bolts run through the same vertical grain in the wood.

That's the strongest connection as it reduces the chances of splitting of the wood between two holes drilled in the same grain section of the lumber.

You'll also notice that we don't place the bolts too close to the end of the scab nor too close to the top or bottom edge of the girder nor too close to the top of the post - locations where splitting may be more likely.

The two 2x10's comprising the deck girder in our photo above have not been bolted together.

That may be OK if the girder was toe-nailed from opposing sides. Some builders who want a stiffer girder add structural adhesive and even a treated plywood plate between the 2x lumber to build the girder. Especially where a plywood stiffener is installed, be sure to provide flashing over the top of the girder to protect the structure from water and frost damage.

Place large washers under the heads of lags
and at both ends of through-bolts. Re tighten bolts and lags
after the first year and check periodically for tightness.

Like other deck components, metal fasteners are subject to numerous stresses. The sealers and stains typically used
on decks provide little protection to fasteners, and the copper-based chemicals used in most waterborne preservatives
accelerate corrosion in many metals.

When the fasteners corrode, they contribute to decay in the surrounding wood, further weakening the connection.

Also notice that the proper galvanized steel joist hanger nails were used, not roofing nails or other fasteners. If you select the proper depth of joist hanger to match the depth of the deck joists, the manufacturer is giving you a clue about the number of nails required to make a safe and secure connection - every hole in the hanger gets a nail.

Watch out: choose the right joist hanger for the size of joist being supported. Don't use a joist hanger intended for 3x4's to hang a 2x6 or larger framing member - the number of nails won't be sufficient.

If you encounter a structure already built with this mistake, fixing the connections is usually easy: add the required number of additional fasteners by toe-nailing the joist or rafter from opposing sides, using an appropriately sized framing nail or galvanized framing nail if outdoors. (Typically 12d common galvanized).

How Many Nails or Screws do I Need to Connect Two Framing Members?

The architect or engineer who designs a building specifies the number and type of framing connectors to be used for each type of connection. But there are also good sources of connector information from the manufacturers of framing connectors (right in the catalog or in installation sheets), as well as in various engineering and carpentry texts.

A still more basic clue is the number of holes in the framing connector itself.

Watch out: the number of holes in a typical joist hanger is a clue to the number of nails that the manufacturer expected you to use to make a secure connection. Our pocket-knife is pointing to missing framing nails in the 2x4-sized framing-connector above. There were no nails into the butting framing member.

Toe Nailing Wood Framing Connections

It is not necessary to use steel joist hangers if the joist is properly toe-nailed from either side into the ledger board, provided that the proper size and number of nails are used.

Our illustration (left, adapted from a Double-Shear stamping on a steel joist hanger) explains why toe-nailed lumber connections can be very strong.

Use of toe-nailing, or angled opposed framing nails (Double-Shear in Simpson Strong-Tie's patented[10] joist hanger such as the item adapted above), can permit the use of fewer total nails in a wood frame construction.

Installation Details for Steel Framing Connectors for I-Joists

Our photographs illustrate use of a Simpson Strong Tie connector specified for use on a range of I-Joist sizes.

As we illustrate its installation here, the connector is nailed over the side of the I-Joist, then to the wall top plate, then to the wall stud below, forming a very strong connector where these I-Joists were used as roof supports.

Our first photograph (left) shows ;that we installed the specified number of joist-hanger nails (minimum of five) through the connector end and into the top of the I-Joist.

Our two photos below illustrate the required position and number of nails for the extended connector strap as it passes over the wall top plate and along the side of the I-Joist where it was nailed to the top chord tie and to the block inserted at the end of the I-Joist (below left) and then over the top plate (4 nails) and finally along a wall stud inner face (3 more nails) giving us 7 fasteners in the I-Joist itself.

An additional 4 nails into the top plate and at least 3 (depending on how the strap aligns) into the wall stud) give us 7 fasteners into the structural wall below. If additional nails are needed into the wall stud the strap can be bent around the stud side for that purchase point.

This I-joist installation was for framing a low-slope roof in new construction.

The layout required some planning and thought to assure that the I-joists were placed over wall studs in a location to permit the strapping of I-Joist to both the wall top plate and the wall stud using a single strap.

If your plans don't work out quite so precisely you will still be OK but if your I-Joist connector straps don't line up to tie all three wall components together at once, you may be required to install additional ties to connect certain wall studs to the building top plate.

At left we illustrate installation of the same utility framing connector strap at the opposite side of the same building as the structure above. In this location the lower ends of the framing connectors were nailed from the exterior of the building, through the OSB structural sheathing and into wall studs below.

[In my [DJF] OPINION, nailing the strapping to OSB alone, that is, not also through it into the wall studs, is not so strong.] Photos courtesy of Daniel Friedman & Galow Homes.

I-Joist Hangers for Flat or Angled Framing Between Walls Rather than On Top of Walls

Above we illustrated using steel framing connectors to tie I-Joists to a wall top plate and stud for the case of I-joists that run on top of the building walls. Simpson Strong Tie and other manufacturers provide straight (for floors) or angled I-Joist hangers for framing I-Joists between building walls such as for installation of a floor, a flat roof, or a roof with no overhang.

Machine-Threaded Bolts Used for Deck Construction

Where both sides of the joint are accessible, bolts
offer the strongest connections.

Drill pilot holes 1/32 to 1/16 inch
larger than the diameter of the bolt so it will slide through
easily.

After drilling, saturate the hole with preservative.
Use large washers under both the head and nut. Re tighten
after the first year, since the wood may have shrunk.

Lag Bolts Used for Deck Construction

For lag bolted deck connections, drill a full-diameter pilot hole for the unthreaded
portion and a smaller hole (65 to 75% of the lag’s
diameter) for the threaded portion.

So, for example, a 1/2-inch
lag would get a 5/16-inch pilot hole for the threaded portion; a
3/8-inch diameter lag would get a 1/4-inch diameter pilot hole.

After drilling, saturate
the pilot hole with wood preservative. It is also important
that at least half the length of the lag is threaded into solid
wood.

For example, driving a 5-inch lag through a 4x4
post into a 2x joist will produce a weak connection with only
1 1/2 inches of anchoring. Instead, the lag screw should go
through the 2x and be threaded into the thicker 4x4.

Use a
large washer under the head, and re tighten after the first year
in case materials have shrunk. Our photo (above left) illustrates use of a lag bolt to connect the deck ledger to the building structure by bolting to the rim joist. Notice that the installer seems to have omitted flashing over the ledger board.

Suppliers of Joist, Post & Beam Hangers & Connectors & the Nails or Fasteners used With Them

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Try the search box below or CONTACT US by email if you cannot find the answer you need at InspectApedia.

Question:
nails not holding roof decking in place

(May 20, 2014) sunshine pope said:
my roof decking was put on with nails and is pulling up for art 18 inches can I screw that down with screws

Reply:

Sun

Often by using a coarse-thread self-tapping construction screw you can pull back decking or framing into position. Sometimes we also have to assist with clamps.

Watch out: don't drive screws right through shingles - making penetrations and future leaks. But you may be able to lift a shingle tab, run screws and washers in to the rafter below, and cover the new fastener top with flashing cement before dropping the tab back in place.

Question: 6x6 post to double 2x6 beam connection

(Dec 8, 2014) JoAnn said:
For a 6x6 post to double 2x6 beam connection, what similar connector or other choice can be used instead of the treated plywood cleat as shown on the diagram? Is there a model or part number so I can view it, and/or what local dealer may carry it (Home Depot, Lowes, McCoys, etc). Also, is the treated plywood cleat sold as shown on the diagram or is it something one would make? Thank you.

Reply:

JoAnn I think we saw and replied to this elsewhere - in short, you will find pre-fab steel framing connectors of huge variety at your building supplier such as a local lumber yard or Home Depot or Lowes. You can select the connector based on simple framing descriptions: You want a Post to Beam connector that matches a doubled 2x6 (about 3" in width) to a 6x6 post top (about 5.5" square) - you'll see connectors labelled accordingly and easier to find than by a manufacturer's part number.

If you still want part numbrers, e.g. for an architect's or engineer's use, they will doubtless consult a more detailed product catalog such as those offered by Simpson Strong Tie. There you'll find

BC/BCS Post Caps
of various dimensions along with installation instructions.

The BCS allows for the connection of 2-2x's to a 4x post or 3-2x's to a 6x post. Double-shear nailing between beam and post gives added strength! The BC series offers dual purpose post cap/base for light cap or base connections.

Question: 1950's home makes popping sounds

(Jan 15, 2015) tonysawyers@att.net said:
I' trying to find a double 2 by 10 joist hanger that I can secure to a metal post that is strong enough for an inside deck. It will have on it about 3000 lbs. The deck is 10ft wide and 28ft long.

(Mar 22, 2015) John a said:
I'my a new owner of my 1950 home that is doing a lot of popping both during the day and at night. My crawlspace has a couple 4x4 supports that "APPEAR" to be doing their job. how do i know if my home is settling and should i adjust these supports (lower them) along with the settling?

Johnrocksteady@gmail.com

Reply:

John

we don't know from your question what is making the popping sounds. For example, ice on a flat roof, metal ductwork, other things can make popping sounds.

If there are signs of building movement such as cracks or sticking windows/doors or things out of level, then you need an onsite expert.

Question: what size beam do I need for my covered porch

(Apr 5, 2015) Zohra said:
Hello,
Thank you for all the info but I am still a little confused. We are building a covered porch, roofed with a basic shingled roof. It will be 9 feet out from the house and 20 feet in length, (length parallel to the house). At the 8 1/2 feet at the corners we are putting a 6x6 foot post (2, one at each corner). the other side will be attached to the house. My question is, what size should the cross beam, going from one post to the other, be? Any other recommendations or suggestions? Thank you!

I <8 1/2'> X--6x6 post
I
house I
I
I X--6x6 post

sorry, diagram came out wrong. The lower X that marks the lower post should be right under the top X, 8 1'2 feet away from the house.

Reply:

It sounds as if you need to check with a design professional or your building inspector as well.

...

Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

Use the "Click to Show or Hide FAQs" link just above to see recently-posted questions, comments, replies, try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.

Technical Reviewers & References

Steve Bliss's Building Advisor at buildingadvisor.com helps homeowners & contractors plan & complete successful building & remodeling projects: buying land, site work, building design, cost estimating, materials & components, & project management through complete construction. Email: info@buildingadvisor.com
Steven Bliss served as editorial director and co-publisher of The Journal of Light Construction for 16 years and previously as building technology editor for Progressive Builder and Solar Age magazines. He worked in the building trades as a carpenter and design/build contractor for more than ten years and holds a masters degree from the Harvard Graduate School of Education.
Excerpts from his recent book, Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, Wiley (November 18, 2005) ISBN-10: 0471648361, ISBN-13: 978-0471648369, appear throughout this website, with permission and courtesy of Wiley & Sons. Best Practices Guide is available from the publisher, J. Wiley & Sons, and also at Amazon.com

[1] Eric Galow, Galow Homes, Lagrangeville, NY. Mr. Galow can be reached by email: ericgalow@gmail.com or by telephone: 914-474-6613. Mr. Galow specializes in residential construction including both new homes and repairs, renovations, and additions.

[2] Mark Morsching, Everflashing, Tel: 800-550-1667, Email: everflashing@gmail.com. The Everflashing product comes in G-185 and Stainless Steel and is intended for use with treated lumber with copper in it. Everflashing produces a variety of specialty flashing products including flashings for use with decks at deck ledgers and deck perimeters.

The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.

Or choose the The Home Reference eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAEHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.

...

Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. Tel: (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 Email: info@carsondunlop.com. The firm provides professional home inspection services & home inspection education & publications. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material.

The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors.Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Illustrated Home purchased as a single order Enter INSPECTAILL in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer's model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop, Associates, Toronto - Carson Dunlop Weldon & AssociatesSpecial Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Technical Reference Guide purchased as a single order. Just enter INSPECTATRG in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.

The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume.

Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.

Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. a 5% discount on these courses: Enter INSPECTAHITP in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.