Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

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At that many miles, I'd have to tell you to start saving up for a down payment. I'm not being a smart alec, I just don't know too many GM's, Fords or dodge that are worth anything afte 200k miles.Some people might have these that made it past 200k, like you, but believe me, it's an oddity.But do look into a Toyota for a small 4 or 6 cylinder.Ford F-250 or 350 for a full size truck.Research and see for yourself how many toyota's are reaching 300k at 400k miles.A small for, GM or dodge reaching 300k? Just doesn't happen.

Fuel Pump.I was told by an authorized dealer, the fuel pump doesn't send codes.Now remember this part:I went to all the parts sellers, Checker, Autozone, and none of them knew this. They just kept saying, "Sounds like blah blah blah...." And of course, I bought about 400 bucks worth of parts. Some even said the engine crank sensor. If it was the engine crack sensor, that would send a code. So don't let them [non-permissible content removed] you. Take it straight to a dealer.Mine was fixed, it was the fuel pump and now I'm back in business.

Also another tip. I had them put in the exact brand name fuel pump.Best Part: LifeTime Warranty, and guaranteed because a profesional authorized shop installed it.If it ever goes out on me again, I get a new one FOR FREE!!!

My Blazer 4.3 ZR2 would start fine, then after about 10 minutes, begin to sputter or just cut out completely.It finally died. After 6 months of sitting in the driveway, I threw in a new battery, it cranked and started enough for me to move it.I let it idle, then it died, never to start again.The dealer sent a tow truck, they took it, I got it back with a new fuel pump and I'm back in business!

Don't waste your time on parts store. Have a dealer pick it up and fix it.But also have about a grand for this. The pump on my 2002 ZR2 was $420.00.I hope this helps!

i have a 1995 chevy blazer 4wd, 4.3. when i start driving, its when i hit the gas it sounds like it wants to stop. like there isnt enough fuel getting to it. i took it to a mechanic and he checked the code, it was egr valve, he took it apart, cleaned it, put it back and cleared the code. said it would take 2 days til it ran smooth again. 3 days ago. still doing it, now flashing check engine soon multiple times, sounds like it is chugging......im thinking fuel pump or filter. please, any help or ideas

Remember Ford did not have to take the bailout. But Government motors and doop did. LolThe recent world reports on the most reliable cars and trucks is Ford. yes they had their moments of trouble, but, all the manufacturers in america did then. But now Ford is a real world contender and they always had the best truck. So yes your decision to buy a ford next time is a wise one. Chevy trucks are no more than glorified cars anyway.

hey, remember one thing, unless you do need to haul in the bed 4000 plus pounds or more, you only need a ford f 150, the 2012 model payload capacity from ther ford website is 3060lbs. that is more than the 2500 hd chevy. so remember the f-150m is the same as the 2500 chevy and the 3500 dodge.

Not to be rude, But General Motors has had its issues, But alot of the farms i've been to or worked on all have GM work trucks with over 400k on them, I rarely hear of fords with more then 250 before they completely run dry. I personally own a 96 Jimmy and it has 325 000 on it. The only problem is the fuel pump (I was not told by a shop mechanic, My father trains Dealership mechanics in Saskatchewan) So for anyone reading this, Chevy and GMC are some of the most reliable and dependable vehicles. Save for some engineering issues.

The problem with the 1992 - 1995 CPI system found on the 4.3L "W" engines can be traced to a defective fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator on the CPI system could not be serviced separately from the fuel distribution "spider" assembly. Dorman Products recognized the problem and introduced a fuel pressure regulator that could be serviced separately from the fuel distribution assembly (spider). Dorman #55162 is a fuel pressure regulator for the 1992-1995 CPI found on the VIN "W" engines . The Dorman 55162 fuel pressure regulator cost $35 but the labor cost will be the same as it would be if you replaced the entire CPI fuel distribution assembly (spider). Replacing the fuel pressure regulator on the CPI will save about $250 compared to replacing the entire fuel distribution assembly.

I had the same problem, not sure if this will help but mine was caused by a cracked spark plug.. like you said it sounded like it was gona die and kinda sputtered.. not sure if that is it but i would check the spark plugs

Just one ignition cable can cause the ICM (Ignition Contriol Module) to deliver the wrong firing sequence or even stop working until the cable is removed from the source of the ground. For example my friend replaced the spark plugs on my S10 Blazer and did not put the ignition cables properly in the wire looms. One of the cables lay against the hot exhaust manifold and burned through the insulation. When the conductors grounded against the exhaust manifold, it caused the ICM to stop working intermittently but when the wind blew the ignition cable off the manifold, the engine started running properly again. I found the bad cable and put all the cable through the wire looms and the engine never misses a beat. I have since replaced the ignition cables with the correct AC Delco ignition cable kit. If you have lost any of the oroginal wire looms, a new wire loom kit is available. AC Delco 8073 (GM 12073948) for $4.50. Dorman also has the same looms in various assortments of 2, 3 and 4 wire looms under part numbers 40283, 40284, 40286, 40281, 40288, 40289, 40291, etc. If Dorman went to the trouble to manufacture that many different GM wire looms / holders, they must be important parts.

It is important to make sure the ignition cables are in the wire looms and are in good condition. Ignition cables should be replaced at 30,000 mile intervals along with the distributor cap and rotor. GM sold individual ignition cables for customers who found one or two damaged cables. However, GM stopped that practice and now GM only sells complete ignition cable sets, just like the all the aftermarket suppliers.

Have had problems with this blazer since August. I have had it for 9 years and no problem until August 2011. Would go dead when slowing down. Have changed spark plugs and wires, rotor and cap, cam position sensor, thermostat, fuel filter, idle air control, ignition coil, and just last month it would go dead and ses light would flash. Had it towed and they changed the ignition control module. Ran great for about 1 1/2 months. Saturday night drove it and noticed it hesitating during acceleration. It stopped doing that and I got to the store. Got back in 15 minutes later and it started great and ran great. Did not drive it Sunday. Monday morning it would not start. It seemed to try after a couple of tries and just sputtered out. Checked fuel pressure. 60 psi with key on and pump priming. When pump cut off, dropped to 55 psi immediately. So, I have no idea what could be wrong now.

Well, while waiting for my husband to get home so we could check the pressure again and see where it is 10 minutes after priming, I decided to try to see if it would start. IT STARTED RIGHT UP!! What's up with that. Oh, I should have mentioned, I was rear ended about 1 month ago. No apparent damage. Wonder if that tripped something. I am baffled!

I just had my 99 blazer stall out and would not start at all. Still had power just wouldnt turn over. I ran a scan for fun and it came up the crankshaft position sensor. Just something to check out, hope it helps.

check the inline fuse locate in the alternator wire that runs under the battery tray, mine was doing the same thing, and i replaced everything i could think of , and it was the fuse....a lot of money spent for a $2.00 inline fuse...lol...

Drove it home on a Friday night everything was fine. Left the house Sunday afternoon and it died just down the street and would not restart. Turns over just fine. 2 hours later went out to tinker with it and it started right up and idled but then died a few seconds later. Once I started it again and placed my foot on the gas it spits n sputters very rough and dies. In the last year I have replaced the alternator, battery, mass airflow sensor, and fuel filter. The battery died and when we jumped it today it sounded completely normal until I attempted to give it gas and it dd the same thing. So I'm pretty sure I can rule out the battery and the battery gauge sits at 14 when it does idle so the alternator should be good as well. When I am under the hood and it dies there is a foul smell that I have noticed for just a few seconds and about 3 to 4 quick clicks come from around the intake.

So I'm really not sure where to start looking for the problem. Tools and $$$ are limited right now so any help pinpointing the issue would be greatly appreciated.

Changed fuel pump still same thing. Getting plenty of fuel it just won't start and if it does start it only idles for up to 10 seconds. Any acceleration and it sputters and makes the whole vehicle shake. Checking for spark at each plug now. Any help much needed.

I have a 99 blazer with the 4.3 vortec v6 sometimes it starts great other times about once daily it fires then shuts off I keep trying and after about 20mins it starts and runs fine any help would b appreciated

Not sure if you have been driving yours or not. Mine died outside the driveway and would start and die or no start at all. Ended up the coil wire was rotted under the plastic sheath. Try it while its dark to see if there is any spark jumping.

HI, i have a 1998 chevrolet blazer 4.3L vortec V6. It was running fine at first. But it started the run very rough and shakes like crazy. the temperature gauge doesnt work even after installing a new temperature sensor. it does this everyday. sometimes on very short drives like at lunch it will drive fine on the way to the store and then drive like crap on the way back. the temp gauge moves from cold to hot and back to cold when ever it is starting the spit and sputter. it stalls at traffic lights and is a pain to get it started again.. i have to pump the accelerator to get it started when ever it stalls. when ever the spitting and sputtering problems occur when im driving it stops running like crap when i floor it. but stills runs like [non-permissible content removed] after. i dont have much $$$ and with a baby on the way i need to get this fixed. help very much needed. thank you.

Have a 1994 s10 blazer. Have replaced fuel pump and filter in tank, inline fuel filter, throttle position sensor, rotator button and cap, iginition module in distributor. Still would idle all day long but when you started to drive it it would get hot then stop. we changed the catalic convertor started running great. thaT night it stopped again starting missing bad. fixed some vacumn line links still didnt fix it ..it is not coil we tried that.... any other suggestions?????

zedd,did you every find a fix to your truck? I know it's a 4 year old post, but I have the exact same issue and done the exact same thing...I even took off the whole exhaust system to eliminate plugged CAT...UGH! I'm at my wits end too. ANY help would be greatly appreciated.Thank youDon