Warning! It seems your Javascript settings on your browser have been disabled. i-sells.co.uk (and a lot of other websites) won't work as intended without re-enabling javascript. Simply Click Here to quickly fix this issue.

Recent replies to customer questions

HumidistatHi
I have a Drimaster installed at a rental property which has an inbuilt heater with thermostat and is controlled by a remote Humidistat so is only activated above pre-set humidity level. I need a Flatmaster for another property without loft space. I can't find reference to Humidistat control for Flatmaster. Do you supply/recommend one?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Paul

Thank you for your question. I have spoken to Nuaire this morning and they have confirmed that a Humidistat can not be added to this unit as it would in-peed your warranty. If I can help any further please do not hesitate to contact me

dimensionsI require a 100mm unit which has a square intake of 215mm. If this fan is not suitable can you recommend one which is. There is a 5m horizontal run on the vent pipe plus a vertical run of 3m. Thank you.

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Duncan

Thank you for your question. Due to your duct run being 8 meters the Elix range does a longer duct run 15 meters. The fan size is 180mm x 180mm with a 100mm spigot. I have also check other fans but they do not do the duct run that you have. If I can help any further please do not hesitate to contact me

piv drimasterhello just had this installed and is working fine, when does the heating side of it kick in, and how hot is the air from it, just need to make sure its working ok, have got the setting on 3, and the other button is on the plus side max

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Peter

Thank you for your question.The heater should be consideredas a means of tempering the incoming air not as supplementary home heating asit would be cheaper to compensate for incoming cool air by temporarilyincreasing the heating thermostat. If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to contact me

Setting the Temperature Speed Control OptionIn the instructions it says the following under Setting the Temperature Speed Control Option:
1
(Default)
At loft temperatures below 19°C the unit will operate on
“Normal Operation Mode”.
At loft temperatures above 18°C but less than 24°C, the unit will
switch automatically to “Intelligent Heat Recovery Mode”.
At loft temperatures above 23°C the unit will switch itself automatically
to “Standby Mode”.
2 At loft temperatures below 19°C the unit will operate on
“Normal Operation Mode”.
At loft temperatures above 18°C but less than 31°C, the unit will
switch automatically to “Intelligent Heat Recovery Mode”.
At loft temperatures above 30°C the unit will switch itself automatically
to “Standby Mode”.
3 This option removes the temperature sensing function out of the
unit.
The unit will operate continuously in “Normal Operation
Mode” depending on the volume control setting selected.
4 At loft temperatures below 16°C the unit will operate on
“Normal Operation Mode”.
At loft temperatures above 15°C but less than 28°C, the unit will
switch automatically to “Heat Recovery Mode”.
At loft temperatures above 27°C the unit will switch itself automatically
to “Standby Mode”.
5 Not applicable for the HEAT model.
What are the following modes, and how does the unit operate in those modes?
“Normal Operation Mode”
“Intelligent Heat Recovery Mode”
“Heat Recovery Mode” (I assume this just has the word Intelligent missing? or is it a different mode?)
“Standby Mode”
Many Thanks, Dennis

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Dennis

"Normal Operation Mode" is the trickle speed as set on installation.

"Heat Recovery Mode" is automatic boost when temperatures rise above a set level, ie the loft temperature is warmer than the house, and "Standby Mode" is another term for "off".

Electrical Wiring QuestionHi, please can you tell me if this fan has:
TWO connections (live/ neutral)
or
THREE connections (live/ switched live/ neutral)
It's really important I know before I purchase it : )
Thank you

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

ElecTHi Adrian

The eThe electrical information from the datasheet is as follows:-

220v 220-240V - AC. 50Hz

Single phase consuming 15W

These fans are double insulated and do not require an earth. All wiring must comply with current IEE regulations. A double pole isolating switch, having a contact separation of

at le at least 3mm in all poles, must be used with a 3 amp fuse fitted.

BendabilityCan you make quite tight bends in it i.e. round a 90-degree corner, or does it need to be curved more gradually (resulting in bigger boxing-in)

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Deborah

Thank you for your question. This item can be bent around a 90 degree corner please have a look at the pictures in the gallery for this item and you will be able to see some examples. If I can help any further please do not hesitate to contact me

Cyfan window kitcan this be installed in a double or triple glazed window?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Tony

The maximum thickness of window, whether double or triple glazed is 38mm so DG windows are often expressed as 16mm - 20mm etc this is the air space so to this you need to add the thickness of the glass (standard sized panes will be 4mm but larger may be 6mm)

Cut down doors?We have put 'Envirovent' systems into a few properties and they recommend that the bottom of all doors are cut so that there is a 10mm gap at the bottom so that air can flow if doors are closed. Is this the same for the NUAIRE systems which I have only just discovered on the I-sells site

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Barry,

For all Positive Input Ventilation (PIV) systems to work, air needs to be able to travel as free as possible around the property. This is normally achieved under doors and so the recommendation to allow adequate air movement with a gap of approximately 10mm under the doors is good advise.

Generally we also advise that any rooms where air would have to travel through two doors would need additional ventilation, especially moisture producing (wet) areas. The main final check, is to ensure that there is adequate free ventilation within the loft space itself.Paul

Fire blocksCan this be installed in 100mm round ducting and what fittings are required?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Neil

Thank you for your question. Yes this item can be installed in 100mm ducting, Please see below the fitting instructions. If I can help any further please do not hesitate to contact me.

Installation Tecfire dampers should be secured within ducting using not less than 4 self tapping screws (on circular units two self tapping screws must be used tofix each aluminium ring). Doors and Partitions - Ensure that cutting anaperture in the door will not detract from the fire integrity of the door. Contact the manufacturer to establish maximum size and optimum position. Cut the aperture to the required size with a gap all around of 3mm. Apply intumescent mastic to the inside faces of the aperture. Fit the damper into the aperture and ensure that it is positioned equidistant from each face and parallel to both faces of the door. Fit retaining 25mm wood screws through the pre-drilled holes in damper outer uprights into door. Clean off surplus mastic and ensure outer edge of damper is fully sealed. Position pressed steel cover grilles centrally over both faces of the damper and fix with 25mm wood screws.

Nuaire Ductmaster ThermalHi, I am looking at installing an MEV system in a renovation project. I would like to use a Vent-Axia Sentinel Multivent H and the Nuaire Ductmaster thermal system. Couple of questions about the Nuaire system:
1. Is it fully compatible with the Vent-Axia Sentinel?
2. Does the Nuaire system need to be clamped and supported at every join?
3. What is the outside diameter of the ducting - for external venting purposes? ie. what size hole do I need to drill?
4. Do standard 125mm extraction valves and stainless external vents fit the Nuaire system?
5. Is any condensation trap need on the exhaust run if it is going horizontally?
Many thanks, Mike

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Michael

The Vent Axia unit has 125mm spigots so the Ductmaster system is fully compatible, the connections are male/female click and lock so do not require clamping and ancillaries inn standard 125mm are compatible although you may have to remove thge connectors in some cases. The insulated walls of the ducting are nom 15mm so the total diameter of the duct is approx 155mm however we would recommend standard 125mm rigid pipe to form the sleeve through the wall for the exhaust. We would not expect condensation to form in insulated ducting and therefore a condensation trap should be unnecessary.

Ceiling diffuser installation.I have a double thickness ceiling to go through as it is old lath & plaster which was tacked over with plasterboard then plastered over. Will this cause a problem for me?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Len

This will largely depend on how thick the ceiling actually is, the heater connects to the rear spigot on the diffuser which is approx 60mm and the ducting connects to the heater so both should clear the ceiling depth.

Contriol PanelI can't adjust the slow speed and the high speed reostats so that the fan speeds up on turning on the switches to the bathrooms anymore. I can adjust to various speeds but it remains constant. It appears the control panel has failed. Can I get a replacement control panel.
Thanks
Nick

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Nick

I'm sure a replacement control panel is available but before purchasing onre I would recommend giving Nuaire Technical help a call, they are very good and may be able to help with fault finding, the number is 02920 858500

Trickle / Boost switchwhen i bought vent unit from you in the kit was a trickle /boost switch. Even on trickle it seems extremely fast and on boost we are ready for take off. what can i do to reduce the speed further as ive talked with a qualified electrician and he considers it to be too high for "trickle" performance !!!!!!!!!!

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Arthur

There is a method of reducing the trickle speed, it is in pdf format so I will forward this by direct e-mail

Cimney ventsGood morning.
I need to fit some vents into a chimney stack that we are having to seal due to the fact that there is a cement/asbestos chimney liner running through the stack. Would these vents be suitable and how many would I need to fit to avoid damp forming in the disused stack?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Graham

The usual method of ventilating a chimney is to have vents at high and low level to create a through flow of air and avoid the build up of condensation within the stack. This is often done by installing 'hit and miss' ventilators which would require a rectangular aperture, the product you have referenced is a 100mm round vent which will be suitable if you are core drilling the holes. Common practice is 2 vents per floor.

Product LocationI suffer from running condensation in our upstairs bedrooms. We have a small hallway on the first floor which accesses all bedrooms and then extends above the stairs. What is the optimum position for the unit. On the landing the ideal location is outside of the main bedroom door but I am worried of a slight draught being felt. The other option is on the ceiling above the bottom stair. Would the unit be as effective at this location? If so I wont be able to access the controls on the unit from the hallway so will choose the version with loft controls. I also note this is a basic version is the |HC version more efficient?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Brian

From your description you have a perfect location for the input valve (diffuser) and that is above the bottom of the stairs. You are correct in stating the HC version with the controls in the diffuser plate would not be the best option so the basic loft control would be better. There is no difference regarding efficiency between any of the Drimasters it is just the controls that determine the title, for the basic version I would also recommend the two way switch as it gives you a bit more control without accessing the loft.

Cottage QueryHi there. I am considering purchasing the Drimaster Eco Heat Positive Input Ventilation Unit With Integral 400W Heater. I live in a single storey stone cottage which suffers from quite bad condensation. The Humidity levels are constantly around 70-80%. From the reviews of this product and your answers to any questions it would seem that this product may help. My cottage is quite long (around 25metres long) with a corridor running down half of it (the bedrooms are off the corridor) then into a large living and kitchen area (10m in length) which has a higher ceiling than the rest of the house. Please let me know if this is the unit that you would be recommending in this instance.

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Adam

The answer to your question regarding our recommendation will depend really on how high your ceilings are and whether the loft is well ventilated.

We would also prefer to know, what ventilation (extraction) is there currently in the bathroom and kitchen and poss utility room, if there is one?

Helpful info would be type of heating system, log burner? Hot water radiators? Do you have a hot water tank/airing cupboard?

external vent grillecan you tell me how long the spigot on the back of the grille is - for connecting the flexi duct to?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello John

Thank you for your question. This grille does not have a spigot on the back it fits directly to the wall. Have a look at our other grills in our 100mm ducting range, If I can help any further please do not hesitate to contact me.

in line shower room extractor1. do we set the speed or does the unit start with speed 1 and then step through speeds 2 & 3 ?
2. Do you have a branch local to DY8 3AF?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Paul

Thank you for your question. Your installer will set the unit to either speed 1 2 or 3 as the fan is continuously running. And we will deliver to you at a cost of £4.99inc vat or free if your order is over £100.00 inc vat. If I can help any further please do not hesitate to contact me

Elbow bend sizesJust changing my kitchen and it looks like I have this system installed in the ceiling void. The new hood extractor recommends 120 -150mm extract size but this is 100mm. Do you do different sizes or something suitable?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Stuart

The slim duct system is really only suitable for cooker hoods of up to 250 cubic metres per hour extraction rate (compatible with 100mm ducting) so there is no plenum with a larger spigot in this range.

If you need to convert to meet the hood spigot of 120mm you would need product codes QS4086 to convert 120 to 125 and QS330 to convert 125 to 100mm

diffuser locationas i stated my bungalow has a narrow L-shape hallway as u walk in from front door,i wanted to fit 1 metre from front door in centre of 4ft wide ceiling ,but have a roof beam above ceiling board,so is it ok to fit near wall and fit air dam near wall side,i want to fit there as i have a rad which would warm the incoming air.the only other place to put is in second half of the L-shape hallway behind loft hatch ,as all the doors lead off there.hope u can answer both questions
regards

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Robert

Yes, when restrictions apply, it is ok to fit near a flank wall if applying air dams on the wall side. Taking advantage of convected air from a radiator is also a good idea.

fitting the diffuserhi
i have a narrow L-shape hallway which is 4ft wide.i wanted to fit diffuser a metre from front door,but ceiling has a roof beam right down middle of ceiling.as u turn right into second half of L-shape hallway there is a loft hatch then kitchen.i think i can fit diffuser just before lofthatch,as all doors are close by,is that ok?can u please tell me what will happen if diffuser is to near to near a wall,as i wanted to fit near front door as i have a rad which would mix the cold air,but one side of the diffuser would be near wall,so only other spot is near loft hatch.
1 last question,as unit draws air from loft gaps etc ,the soffit boards have been overclad with pvc and underneath is cement board which may or may not contain asbestos.if by chance the wind was to blow a fibre into the air would the filters stop it blowing into house.hope u can help
regards

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Robert,

If your diffuser is too near a flank wall or loft hatch you can use the air dams to divert the input away from that direction.

If your 'suspected' asbestos soffits are clad, there will be no soffit ventilation therefore the fresh air supplying the loft should be entering through other means such as tile vents, ridge tile vents or airbricks in gable ends.

Stopping windHi, my bathroom extractor is fitted to a Screwfix vent - Manrose Cowl Vent Brown 100 x 100mm (14789) - but as it's NE facing it is still subject to rattling in the wind and is not doing what I want it to. Will your product minimise the wind noise? I prefer black as the colour.

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Ian

The Manrose cowl you indicate appears to have a gravity flap inside the same as the DOM44902BK therefore there is unlikely to be much change in prevailing wind. It is possible the flap is too light and attaching some small section of draught excluder to the inside bottom of the flap may reduce the noise.

faulty itemHi, I have received your order and installed them but they all flapping about when is windy and is not like we had big winds and 1 of them is definitely gets stuck at open position after using fan not able to check others 2 as my duck work to short waiting for electrician come and sort it out, any thoughts?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Arminas

Thank you for your question. These grilles tend to flap where there is wind. We do a cowled grille product code QS4468 which has a damper and will stop any blow back of air. Please have a look at this product and if you would like this item instead please give me a call on 0208 463 9683

Thank you for your question. You would require a SELV fan if are installing into zone 1 these fans can be found on our web site. If you require any further assistance please do not hesitate to contact us.

Air flow in small roomsHi
I have 2 clinical rooms (no noxious fumes ) that require ventilation and airflow for building regs. Sizes are 2.7 m X 3.4 and 2.3m X 3.4m. Would this unit move the air adequately for the 2 rooms if it was situated outside the room and would it be suggested to have ducts ending in a grill in the room? If not what would be the best option? Thanks

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Catherine,

This unit would have no problem extracting from two rooms.

You don't mention the ceiling height or whether there may be suspended ceilings, in a perfect world, if suspended, the ducting could be hidden and terminate in a ceiling vent for both rooms.

If this is not an option then, a wall vent / grille approx 250mm below ceiling height would suffice.

Thank you for your question. This item is the single price as they are not sold in pack quantities. How many do you require as we do have a bulk price on this item. If I can help any further please do not hesitate to contact me

Thank you for your question. We do not install but a qualified electrician can fit the unit for you as long as your loft is ventilated and you have a fan in your bathroom and kitchen. If you require any further help please do not hesitate to contact me

Ducting and will this blow back coldHi, we have the drimaster eco hall control unit but still experiencing high humidity in the kitchen - standard about 77%. Will this help take out the kitchen humidity in conjunction with the drimaster? Ideally looking for this to go on the wall above the extractor fan? Anything else we need for example ducting?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Pom really the kitchen (and bathroom) should have separate extract fans and this one is perfect the only ducting required is to form a sleeve through the wall QS193 for standard thickness and an external grille such as QS4445 other colours are available View All Questions

More hose neededHi, great bit of kit but think we need to make this more central and higher with regards to the flexible hose, can you let me know what part number to buy instead of the standard 2m, ideally looking at 3m - 4m if possible.
Cheers,
Pom

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Pom

Nuaire don't do the ducting in longer lengths so you would need to look at some of the Kair flexible ducting such as QS4399 or QS6227

Ventilation for a small flatI live in a 50m2 basement apartment.
It is a apartment with windows / doors facing the garden only. As there are no windows to the back, there is no adequate cross ventilation and therefore the apartment can become stuffy with stale air. The bathroom is also set to the rear.
I am seeking a long-term ventilation solution / strategy that I presume will run 24 hours a day (silently) and then boost when moisture builds in the bathroom which is circa 7m2.
I wish for the background ventilation unit to remove stale air.
There needs to be a boost for bathroom ventilation / moisture control taking air in above the shower
There is an existing ductwork route that runs to the roof of the ground level that I will use to expel air to outside. This route is about 10m. This unit will sit at the rear of the flat.
Can you advise if this is a suitable product for me.
Thank you very much.
Theo

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

HI Theo

I think this unit may be a bit overkill and a constant running extract in the bathroom with humidistat control would be fine and possibly PIV to creat feed of air supply.

Examples can be found by entering QS10003 for input and QS12424 (ceiling sited) or QS45493 for wall sited

3 storey ventilationHi, I live in a 3 storey victorian property and have been looking at your PIV units. Is there any functional difference between the 3 storey unit and the standard units?
The only difference I can see is the fire resistant ducting.
Given the price difference between the standard and 3-storey versions and taking into account the cost of fire resistant ducting I was wondering if there was anything else?
Thanks
Owen

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Owen

There is no difference in performance between the standard unit and the 3S version it is simply the fire rated diffuser that is a legal requirement in 3 storey dwellings.

Hair salonI need a form of ventilation when a straightening service is being done as it lets off a lot of steam and smells and makes our eyes water would this system be sufficient for my salon

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Helen

The answer is largely a matter of how large is the area of the shop floor, in principle the answer is yes as you would position the extract points above the chairs where straightening is carried out. The unit would run on trickle as background ventilation and you would boost during busy periods.

Clicking noise from unitPlease can you give me an idea why the unit is making a continuous loud clicking noise. I have changed the filters but it still persists

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Paul

Thank you for your question. Please see below Nuaire's number. Give their technical a call as they will do a fault find with you over the phone. Please get a name of whom you talk to just in case you need to come back to us.

Electrical conectionsI bought this fan as a replacement for our broken fan, but I can't get it to work. I've even tried plugging it into a socket but it won't work. The original fan was conected to our bathroom light. The wiring in the ceiling is 3 core black, grey and brown it is also wired through an fan isolator. In the isolater the grey wire is the neutral the brown is live 1 and the black is live 2. I've wired it as per the install wiring diagram but nothing works any help ?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hello Steven

Thank you for your question. Please see below Vent Axia's number to speak to their technical department as they will do a fault find with you over the phone.

HeaterHow you know if the heater element is working?
The air coming out feels as cold as outside. We've turned the up temperate up to max.
I look forward to hearing from you.

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Linda

If you hold a hand up to the diffuser you will never feel warm air coming out because your hand will always be warmer and the incoming air is under pressure. The easiest way to describe this effect is the example of blowing into your hands when they are cold, you are using the warmth of your breath, however, if you burn a finger you again, blow on the affected part but purse the lips to increase pressure, which has a cooling effect, the temperature of your breath hasn't altered just the speed at which it is applied.

The 'heater' is there to take the chill off when the temperature in the loft falls below the set point and this has a range between 10 - 20 degrees. If, as you write, you have turned the temperature to max (ie 20) this means, at this time of year, the heater will be on almost constantly and this will be less cost effective than increasing your central heating thermostat during cold periods.

PlacementMy stairwell leads to a small landing (3 metres) one door to the left, one door to the right in a tee shape. It is one metre wide in every direction. Is it ok to put the vent at the top of stair well which is only 1 mtr wide just before it reaches the landing?

Reply from i-sells.co.uk

Hi Sam

As with everything, there is the ideal location for installation and then there is the compromise through necessity. The stairwell ceiling will still be the warmest part of the house when the heating is on (warm air rises through convection) so the location you describe is still the best. If too close to a flank wall, or the smoke alarm, you may need to install the air dams (supplied).

existing nuaire cyfanhello, we had two fans fitted approximately 3 years ago. At the time I think there was a booklet regarding installation and adjustments, I cannot find this. Is it possible for you to provide a link, so I can download the details please. kind regards barry luxton, fairway construction.