(2000 Vintage) We have been champions of Randy Dunn's dense and sinewy Cabernets for many years now, and this latest, loosely defined and seemingly underfilled wine comes as a genuine surprise. Its offbeat aromas smack as much of twigs and green olives as of well-ripened fruit, and its taut, tannin-framed flavors carry an echo of greenness as well. It is possible that aging will help it fill out, but we cannot find the sort of fruit at its heart to win it a place in our cellars.