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enlighten me on the VAP diameter vs 27's???? im wondering where each arrow is in relationship to berger??? also spine of vap and point weight??? somethings wierd, no way it should be 1/2" high to tune right, thats really high

enlighten me on the VAP diameter vs 27's???? im wondering where each arrow is in relationship to berger??? also spine of vap and point weight??? somethings wierd, no way it should be 1/2" high to tune right, thats really high

VAP's are very close to half the diameter of 2712's. 0,217" vs 0.4219".

One problem may be from system torque. In order to avoid fishtailing, I have to set the center shot way to the left. It has an adjustable cable guard that I've set for very little clearance. However, fletching contact isn't a problem yet because I haven't fletched the VAP's yet.

Cam orientation is exactly on the timing mark, though I may have to play with this.

The more I think about it, there seem to be a few things I can try.

Build a shoot through cable.
Yoke tune - which will induce some idler lean
Tilt tamer or Arc
Get a limb driver rest that has some cushioning or go back to the blade.

well im not sure how any cushioning would help, that rest locks down so shouldnt be any contact issues as it seems youve been shooting the VAP as bare shaft right??? what about timing of the rest???? soudnds like you are speculating a little bit that cam lean may be partial factor??? anything else change like different release?? i know right now im starting BT with my target bow and have always used thumb handle and i can see issues with paper tuning since im still a noob with the BT release. my bare shafts were flying horrible and shot thru paper tonight and i can see mixed results depending on shots, some perfect tears and some left tears. kinda got me going tonight LOL

You are right that the release can make a big difference. In this case it's the same Zenith hinge that I've been using for several years.

Last night I ruled out cam lean as either the problem or the solution. I set up my press next to the paper frame and adjusted idler lean in half twist increments. I took the cam from slightly top right to severely top left and didn't get much improvement in the right tear, but the tear is at 3 o'clock so the idler lean isn't effecting that.

I guess the next step is to reset the cam to align with the string and start trial & error on cam orientation.

Two things that seem to help the very high nocking point. One is to adjust the tiller to even. I had taken a little off of the top limb to get the bow to hold a little better, but setting at even tiller allows me to bring the nock down a bit. I'm not sure if it's the change in nock height from tightening the top limb bolt or not. I need to look into that a little more.

The other was to remove the string stop. This also reduced the right tear a little. Unfortunately, my bow is very loud now. The bow needs the stopper, I just need to learn to adjust it a little better.