Thursday, July 30, 2009

I took a wrong exit on my way to the Birmingham Airport. I don’t usually mind getting lost because this can often lead to discovery. But after meandering endlessly down tree-lined country roads I realized that my journey, while beautiful, needed to have a focus or I would miss my flight back to New York. I pulled into the first parking lot I saw. It was for a restaurant—Joel’s Restaurant of Trussville, Alabama. The lot was packed with cars, which is always a good sign. But that’s not why I decided to stay and eat lunch. Nope, I decided to sit a spell because they had on the buffet squash casserole. And I adore squash casserole.

I’ve always thought it strange that I love squash casserole so much considering how little I enjoy eating squash any other way. Steamed, grilled, sautéed—no matter how it’s prepared I often pick at it and push it to the side of a plate. I’m just not a fan of its soft texture and abundance of flat, slimy seeds. But serve me squash in a casserole and I’ll eat seconds or even thirds.

OK, perhaps it’s not that odd that I love squash casserole since it’s a creamy, crunchy mass that’s closer to the fattening family than the vegetable family. But this doesn’t make it even less delicious. And I always rationalize eating it by telling myself that certainly some of the squash’s vitamins would have leached into the swirls of dairy that hold the squash in suspension.

This squash casserole on offer at Joel’s that day was the same kind that my mom and my grandma make: yellow summer squash cut into rounds, baked with a mix of cream of mushroom soup, cream of chicken soup and a package of corn bread stuffing. Yes, it qualifies as semi-homemade but it sure is good. That said, when I picked up a few pounds of yellow squash and zucchini at the farmers market recently, I didn’t have any of these squash casserole ingredients on hand. So I knew if this squash was going to be eaten I’d just have to improvise.
I made my first batch of squash casserole, thinking that it was going to be swell and I was going to be able to tell the world, “You don’t need cream of mushroom soup!” But what I made wasn’t all that good. I then made two more pans and had a casserole bake off—me vs. the mushroom soup. A fine idea in practice, yes, but not necessarily execution when it’s hot and humid both inside and out.

I was about ready to admit defeat when I hit on the bright idea to adapt my King Ranch recipe into a squash casserole. And, it worked! At last I had a squash casserole that could rub shoulders with my mom’s squash casserole.

Does mine taste the same? No, it's different but no less equal. So now we'll just have to make room on the table for two squash casseroles, which isn't a bad thing at all.

Heat the butter in a large skillet on medium heat. When melted, add the squash, onion, and jalapeño, and sauté until the onions are translucent and the squash is soft, about 10 minutes.

Add the garlic, cumin, chili powder, cayenne, salt, pepper and cook for a minute. Then stir in the flour and cook until a light-brown past forms, another minute.

Now add the broth and tomatoes and stir until the mixture thickens, which should happen in a couple of minutes. Add the half and half, sour cream, and cilantro and turn off the heat. Taste and adjust seasonings.

In the greased casserole dish, layer the bottom with the crushed tortilla chips. Pour on top of the chips the creamy squash mixture and then cover the whole dish with the grated cheese.

68 comments:

Can we get the semi-homemade version recipe as well? You posted both for the King Ranch casserole. I made both and love both. I apologize for my unsophisticated desire to use a can of 'cream of' soup ahead of time.

Ooh, yum! Never thought of a squash casserole in this manner - and I do adore squash casserole as well! I'll have to try this. Might get some non-squash eaters in our house to convert, extra calories or not!

Wow! I never thought I'd see Joel's Restaurant featured on one of my favorite food blogs. Trussville is my hometown and the blue plate specials are all I dream about now that I live out on the west coast. This makes me happy and a wee bit homesick. Can't wait to try your version of squash casserole!

Thanks for the recipe. I always have issues with the water that comes out of the zucchini, but your method looks like it will remedy that. Never even thought about using crushed tortilla chips.Brilliant idea.

I love squash casserole! Another good source of recipes for such is just about any Mississippi cookbook. One thing I've noticed is that it's important to cook it plenty long enough-- "crisp-tender" has no place in this dish!

Wow, you were here in Trussville and I didn't know it!!! I love Joel's too and eat there at least every other week - I would eat there more often but I wear their food too well! Let us know the next time you are in the area and we can plan on an eating meeting. Maybe Jennifer will be home visiting. Your squash casserole recipe is very close to mine. I love ALL your recipes and many of them end up on my table at home.Courtney

yes- my husband, houston, and i have been prelim judges for the last 4-5 years. it is one of our very favorite things to do. we are part of the frantex posse. we loved having you a few years back--hope you are able to come!

Thank you so much for posting your Mom's recipe. I can't wait until the yellow squash is ripe in my garden. I will make both versions.

On another selfish note I am heading to New Braunfels/San Marcos area for business in early September. Any recommendations on good grub spots for me? I will also have some time in Austin. What are the musts?

Love that recipe. A friend of mine here in Alabama (believe it or not) makes something similar to that. It is made with zucchini and squash, is spicy and topped with tortilla chips. It is always a hit!

I was reading an old post of yours about taco shells. There is a restaurant in Victoria, TX ( my hometown) that makes the most unique and delicious taco shells. It is a very old recipe that they bought from a local taco factory. They sell them by the dozen in the restaurant and I always get plenty when I am there. I give as gifts to friends here in AL. I would love for you to try them and see if you could recreate them. I don't think they ship them anymore, but I could send you some. Let me know if you would like to try.

I'm a homesick MD girl who now happens to live in TX. When I was in MD for a visit, I requested my mom's Scalloped Squash Casserole and then hi-jacked the recipe. Yum! Can't wait to try your Tex Mex version.

I just came across your blog - my first visit! I live in TX and am heading to Trussville to see my family next week - and can't wait to visit this restaurant! And I look forward to following your blog now!

My handed-down squash casserole recipe is almost exactly your mom's except we cook the onions with the squash and don't add carrots. Maybe I'll try adding those next time... Oh and we don't layer, we just churn. Yum.

I insist on making it at Easter always cos it tastes so good with ham!

California Country--I don't know the New Braunfels/San Marcos area very well, but you should go to City Market in Luling, Lockhart for more BBQ, And in Austin, Jo's, Tamale House; Guerro's Taco Bar; Maria's Taco Express; Pink; Lambert's; Frisco's; Angie's; Kerbey Lane and Magnolia Cafe, Hoover's--it's hard to go wrong anywhere you eat!

Ulla--Thanks for sharing!

Rooth--You're very welcome.

Tripletmom--That's very gracious of you! What's the name of the restaurant?

Judy--Happy to help!

Heidi--Hope you enjoy it!

Anon--Very similar! Yum!

Kevin--It is!

Anon--Have fun at Joel's--I can't wait to return!

Jennifer--Why thank you!

Barbara--Yay! I'm so happy you enjoyed it!

Sally--Excellent, glad y'all like it!

AT--You know, the layering is kind of silly because it turns out all churned by the time you scoop it out of the pan. And that's the way I like it!

Oh my gosh, I can't believe you were in Birmingham! And at Joel's! As another homesick Texan, I have to say, you picked a solid Birmingham meat & 3 -- hope you also got their fried chicken, it's legendary. :)

I made your version last week for three hungry Texan boys, one of whom proclaimed it was the best vegetarian entree he'd ever eaten. Of course, with squash being so fabulous these days, I'm making it again tomorrow and plan on actually enjoying leftovers this time around! Thanks for another knockout recipe!

I just happened across your site in a google search for King Ranch Chicken, and fixed the healthier version (less sodium!). I substituted zucchini that I had in my fridge for the bell peppers (which I don't care for anyway), and ended up with something pretty much like your squash casserole--but a one-dish meal that my kids would eat! It was great! Thanks!

We made this and the okra with bacon for supper tonight (hit the farmers' market earlier and had so much good fresh stuff to work with). It was delicious. I will definitely make this again and file it as something to serve when we have guests.

I am makeing this a second time and it has been a fool proof recipe, great since I tend to set my kitchen on fire at least once a month. My husband, a vegi hater couldn't even tell it was squash! This was also a hit with my picky four year old. Thank you so much.

THANK YOU, Lisa, for this fantastic recipe. I've made it with the 2 kinds of squash or just zucchini and it's always a hit at this house.The garden is about to burst open again with both summer squash and zucchini so I know this will be on the table soon!

I was just telling my boy friend about squash casserole and how much I love it. He's never had it here in LA. As a kid I would beg my parents to take me to the BlackEyedPea. And I would always get two helpings of squash casserole. I'm going to try these two recipes. Do you know if the BlackEyedPea recipe is much different?

Ms. Homesick Texan,I stumbled upon your website the other day whilst looking for Mexican recipes I can manage to throw together in London. England isn't the best place to get Mexican food, and we have quite a few homesick ex-pats over here craving something cheesy and spicy. I tried out this recipe plus the pico de gallo and I have to say, it was incredible. It was so easy to throw together. It required few and cheap ingredients. It tasted like magic. M-A-G-I-C. I am now going to make everything with a crust of broken tortilla chips. Thank you.

Ok, my husband hates squash... or so he believes. He absolutely demolishes a mock apple pie, and loves squash in anything if he doesn't know it's there (as well as many, many other veggies) as long as it's chopped up and he can't tell what it is! So, I'll be chopping and mixing it, but both sure sound wonderful!

We have a family member who is gluten intolerate and allergic to eggs. Your Tex-Mex squash casserole is perfect and delicious and now a family favorite. I just substitute gluten-free flour mix for the 2 tablespoons of regular flour. Thank you!