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Stock Exhaust System Removal 1. Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove O2 sensors from each muffler and cover with supplied cap plug. 3. Loosen clamps at mufflers. 4. Remove bolts that are holding mufflers at rear mounting bracket. 5. Remove mufflers. 6. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 7. Remove rear pipe assembly. 8. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 9. Remove front pipe assembly. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system. 1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. (See Illustration) 3. Install Front exhaust header pipe, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle — use masking tape as needed. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration. 15. Before starting bike wipe off any fingerprints and grease off pipes. Start bike and check for any exhaust leaks

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Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove bolts that are holding pipes at rear mounting bracket. 3. Loosen clamps at mufflers. 4. Remove mufflers. 5. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 6. Remove rear exhaust pipe assembly. 7. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 8. Remove front exhaust pipe assembly. 9. Remove exhaust-mounting bracket from frame. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system.
1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. (See Illustration) 3. Install Front exhaust header pipe, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle — use masking tape as needed. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install nut strip into slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install nut strip into slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration. 15. Before starting bike wipe off any fingerprints and grease off pipes. Start bike and check for any exhaust leaks.

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Stock Exhaust System Removal 1. Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove bolts that are holding pipes at rear mounting bracket. 3. Loosen clamps at mufflers. 4. Remove mufflers. 5. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 6. Remove rear exhaust pipe assembly. 7. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 8. Remove front exhaust pipe assembly. 9. Remove exhaust-mounting bracket from frame. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system. 1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. 3. Install Front exhaust header pipe, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle — use masking tape as needed. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install Nut strip into each slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install Nut strip into each slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration. 15. Before starting bike wipe off any fingerprints and grease off pipes. Start bike and check for any exhaust leaks. NOTE: To achieve optimum performance from your Hard-Krome exhaust system we suggest installing the Dynojet jet kit for carbureted models

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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introducing the new range of single-cylinder models, BMW Motorrad is broadening its model line-up with a clear focus on additional target groups. Proceeding from the same technical foundation, the Company has created three new motorcycles absolutely different in their features and characteristics: the G 650 Xchallenge Hard Enduro, G 650 Xmoto Street Moto, and the G 650 Xcountry Scrambler. With their outstanding product substance, their purist looks, and their exceptionally sporting riding characteristics, these single-cylinder models are filling attractive niches in the market. And through their low unladen weight of less than 160 kg or 353 lb according to the DIN standard, they offer dynamic performance for both the connoisseur and the sports-minded rider. Market launch of the new G 650 X model series is planned in good time for the beginning of the season in spring 2007. These new machines with the smallest engines in the BMW model range offer particularly the young and young-at-heart motorcycle rider exactly the right entry into the world of BMW motorcycles, but are not entry-level bikes in the conventional sense of the word: On the contrary, the G 650 Xchallenge Hard Enduro will thrill the customer who wishes to really benefit from the enormous offroad potential of his machine. The G 650 Xmoto Street Moto, in turn, with its very impressive active riding qualities, offers the genuine enthusiast a new dimension in riding pleasure. The G 650 Xcountry Scrambler, finally, stands for carefree riding pleasure and nimble performance both on the road and off the beaten track. Indeed, this unique machine is able to meet all kinds of requirements and offer virtually all riding qualities ranging from city use via country roads and small, winding lanes, all the way to offroad tracks presenting the most challenging requirements. The G 650 Xcountry therefore conveys the classic but relaxed feeling of riding a genuine Scrambler as well as the concept of “wandering” on your motorcycle into today’s world in a most modern style. And last but certainly not least, riding pleasure is guaranteed under all conditions and in every situation, since the G 650 Xcountry offers the same outstanding engine and running gear qualities as its two very sporting “sister models

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put the motorcycle on a side standn 2. unscrew and remove the bolts from the rear and front part of the motorcycle cowling (Figure 1, 2, 3, 4) m3. remove complete cowling together with the seat (Figure 5) 4. unscrew the bolt from the metal bracket for the muffler (Figure 6) 5. unscrew and remove the bolts on the flange of the header tube (Figure 7) 6. remove the stock exhaust system (Figure 8) 7. remove the stock heat shield (Figure 9) INSTALLATION OF THE AKRAPOVIC RACING EXHAUST SYSTEM installing the header tube: 1. attach the stock heat shield onto the Akrapovic header tube (Figure 10, 11) 2. set up the Akrapovic header tube and hand tighten the flange; use stock gasket; (Figure 12, 13) 3. make sure the header tube is not touching the engine or frame installing the muffler:
1. correctly position the muffler and slide it onto the header tube (Figure 14) 2. attach the spring at the muffler – header tube joint igure 15) 3. attach the muffler to the chassis hanging bracket – use the bolt, washer and spacers supplied in the Akrapovic kit. Do not
fully tighten. Make sure the additional parts from the Akrapovic kit are correctly installed. (Figure 16, 17) 4. make sure the header tube is not touching the engine or frame final installation: 1. tighten fully the bolts of the muffler metal bracket and header tube flange (Figure 18, 19) 2. reattach the complete cowling (Figure 20, 21, 22, 23, 24) 3. clean grease spots: a. muffler – titanium outer sleeve: use a soft cloth sprayed with a multi-purpose spray lubricant (WD-40 or equivalent) b. stainless steel header tube: use a soft cloth sprayed with a contact cleaner, then wipe with a soft dry cloth Cleaning will prevent spots from burning onto the surface. Do not use aggressive chemical cleaners, because they can damage the sticker. 4. position of the correctly installed Akrapovic RACING system (Figure 25)
5. Check the operation of the brakes and suspension. Make sure all the bolts are sufficiently tightened. In case the exhaust system touches the cowling or other parts repeat the adjustment of the exhaust system or contact your authorized dealer

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Place the motorcycle in a vise or on it’s kick stand and make sure it is safe and secure. NOTE: If reusing the stock midpipe and muffler, skip ahead to step #5. 2) Remove the rider and passenger seats. Unplug the tail light, license plate light, and turn signals wires inside the tail section. 3) Remove the four bolts that secure the tail section to the subframe. Carefully remove the tail section from the subframe. 4) Remove the four bolts that secure the license plate/turn signal mount to the subframe. Remove the mount from the motorcycle. 5) Remove the upper and lower front fairing pieces. 6) Remove the two bolts that attach the right side footpeg assembly to the motorcycle. Disconnect the rear brake light switch and swing the footpeg assembly out of the way. Remove the outer plastic foot guard. Remove the aluminum heat shield from the motorcycle. 7) If equipped, remove the o2 sensor from the stock midpipe assembly.
NOTE: If reusing the stock midpipe and muffler, loosen the midpipe mounting bolts, and loosen the clamp securing the headpipe to midpipe connection. Skip ahead to step #9 8) Remove the midpipe mounting bolt, located on the right side of the subframe. Remove the
muffler mounting bolts. Lower the muffler and remove the rear exhaust section from the midpipe. 9) Remove the eight hex flange nuts securing the header flanges to the cylinder. 10)Remove the bottom header mounting bolt from the midpipe assembly. Remove the complete header from the motorcycle. 11)Remove the hat washer and rubber grommet from the stock midpipe assembly. Install the rubber grommet and hat washer into the hole provided on the Jardine midpipe assembly. 12)Slide the four headpipes into the new collectors. The headpipes are numbered from #1 thru #4, with #1 being the furthest toward the left side of the motorcycle, then work your way to the right. Do not install the provided springs at this time

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Mount Installation Note: There are different hole locations on the plow mount depending on the bike model. For Prairie 360 use the middle hole locations (B), for Prairie 650 and Twin Peaks 700 use hole locations (A) on mounting plate, as shown in Figure 1. Figure 1 Hole Locations WARN INDUSTRIES PAGE 3 67954 Rev A3 To install the plow mount to the underside of the vehicle install the front two U-bolts PN 60869, and loosely tighten the 5/16″ nuts. Pull the plow mount back in the furthest position and then fully tighten, as shown in Figure 2. For the Kawasaki Prairie 360 use the second set of U-bolts PN 61262 and securely tighten around the frame in hole location (B) . For Kawasaki Prairie 650 and Suzuki Twin Peaks 700 drill a 3/8″ hole through the aluminum skid plate, using the plow mount as a template, as shown in Figure 3. Repeat the same process on the other side. After both holes are drilled attach the mounting plate with the second set of U-bolts PN 61262 and securely tighten around the frame in hole location (A) . Tighten all fasteners securely. Torque 5/16″ Bolts: 20ft. lb.