Comments: 2nd pitch is loose until you get up into the chimney. Then it climbs superbly with solid hands and good pro until the top of P2. P3 has some very loose, terrible rock so be careful placing pro and be sure to call out if you knock anything loose. The traverse to the Duet anchors is also loose and you can just make the rap down on 60m doubles.

Comments: The anchors at the top of the 3rd pitch are currently terrible (Oct 2011). Rapped off them this weekend and it was very sketch. Would recommend leaving a piece of your own pro behind. Given the popularity of this route, I'm surprised it hasn't been rebolted.