“The act of eating a burger is so iconic and so American, and it’s not just about the patty," he says. "It’s the squish of the bun, the crunch of the lettuce and the tang of the ketchup – there’s something primally satisfying in all that,” he says.

“The bun squishes. The lettuce crunches. The pickles snap. That patty, made from ingredients Headley won’t divulge and miles beyond whatever your vegan friends use to assault your grill during barbecues, has genuine heft.”