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This morning I fixed that bad tee, turned the water back on, and discovered another bad tee 2 valves over....
I've decided to just replace all the pipes and fittings around the valve area, the whole manifold area when the valves come in....so I guess I could have used those smaller 3/4 inch valves, since I'm re-doing everything now anyways........but I already placed the order, so it's all good.

Well, it is easy to tell which is the incoming pipe.
Do people ever put shut-offs in before the main supply line gets to the valves?
Seems like it would be a good thing.

If they do, do they put it in a curb-box, because of frost or looks, or do they just use some elbows and put a valve above ground.....

The J-B weld did not hold, because the water dripping, like oozing out kept the tee wet before the j-b weld could dry, so I have the water shut off now and will replace the tee first thing in the morning, so I can turn the water back on at the main curb box and have water again in the house.

Thanks Mr fixit,
funny how things turn out........I thought I'd dig with my hands some and see what I had for how the elbows, etcwere before I placed my order.

Glad I did. The ground all around that area was wet, and I thought it was all from the drip.
Well, I rigged up a small gutter to divert the drip away from around the valves, and started bailing the water from around the valves, and scooping the mud and water out from aro8und the area. I got down to the tee where that bad valve was, and discovered a small crack in that tee, spraying water out of it.......

So.....I turned off the water at the curb box, and got the area cleaned out. I just put some JB Weld on that tee, hoping it will hold so I can turn the water back on for the house. I will cut and repair that pipe tomorrow.

I see what you mean about the proper spacing with the valves.......I'll order the 1" valves and use the more expensive male adapters.....no big deal. Not worth the hassle moving pipes if it is not a good fit.

So, my next question is, why don't they put a shut off somewhere for just the sprinkler system? Should I do that, or just depend on the curb box shut off if I ever need to work on things again. It seems dumb to have to turn off ALL your water to work on the system, but no where do I see a shutoff for just the sprinkler system. If I put one in, can it be above ground, or does it need to be in another curb box, underground. If I can do this, I'll post a picture of everything exposed so I can find out which one is the incoming pipe.

Hi Frank. I see I gave you the wrong part number. 2713APR is the 1" valve. 2711APR is the 3/4". You asked if there's a big difference in the size of the valves. Yes! Big enough to cause you a problem. Could you make them fit? Probably. Will they put stress on the manifold if you use the 3/4"? Yes! If you dig down and move the elbow over you can use the 3/4" valves. I was just trying to make it easy on you. The existing pipes look perfect. Straight up and down.

I've haven't used the SB3300 cutters. This is the first time I've seen them. Neither one are a long term tool. Basically disposable. I'd go with the RC1000. Just on a huntch. Good luck!

Dear Mr. Fix-it and Admin,
Thank you!
I appreciate the help, and do not mean to be a pain. I plumbed my whole house up north, but am new to these sprinkler systems. I'm glad I got down here...that one valve is dripping about one drip per second now.

Anyway, I bought all of the pipe and fittings I need for the job, but I still have just one question....The pipe coming up is 3/4.......they are currently using a 3/4 weld to 1" thread male adapter to go into the 1" valves. Do I really need the 1" valves?

The only reason I ask, (and I'm not really trying to be a cheapo) , is that those male adapters cost like $1.40 each here, while the regular 3/4 male adapters cost about 33 cents each. There is no water restriction through the 3/4 male adapters.....so would the 3/4 inch valves be a better choice, seeing that they are a bit less expensive, and the adapters are much less expensive?

I want to do it right, and will stick with the one inch valves and male adapters if there is a good reason.......I have carefully dug out the ground around the valve pipes, and there is enough movement, (I think) to do it either way.....are the 3/4 inch valves that much different in the space between the pipes, as to make sticking with the 1" the wiser choice?

I will stick with the 1", no problem if that is the better choice....I just do not know why they used 1" valves with a 3/4 inch pipe system.

Also, I will buy a pipe cutter to cut these schedule 40 3/4 inch pvc pipes.....is there a preference between the RC1000, or the SB3300 ? My tentitive order is just under the free shipping price, so I do not mind spending more to save on the shipping.

Lastly, (to Steve), can I assume that my order will come UPS, and not USPS ? Sometimes UPS contracts with USPS, and if it did, they would automatically forward the order to my NY house...not a good thing.

Thank you all again for your kind help.....I will place the order asap as soon as I know for sure what to get...(probably exactly what Mr fixit told me to do....[:o)] )

Hi Frank. Here's what you need. Four 1" 2711APR valves. That way you don't have to move the pipes over for the 3/4" valves to fit. Eight 1"x3/4" male adapters. Eight 3/4" couplings. 3/4" teflon tape. I use 6 wraps of tape on the male adapters on that particular valve. Three would be enough though. Tighten with a wrench til snug. Some 3/4" pvc pipe. A 10 foot section should do it. I use silicone filled wire nuts. Dryconn brand mostly. You'll need 6 small ones. You'll need primer and glue. Possibly a piece of sandpaper for those moldy pipes. You could dig down a bit and get cleaner pipe. Maybe a piece or two of wire which you can cut off the old solenoids if you wish. Write down the colors of the wires and where they go before removal. You'll need a pvc pipe cutter. If you use a hacksaw make sure ALL of the sawdust is removed. I highly recommend using the cutters. Once you have the water turned back on bleed the valves with the bleeder screw and adjust the flow control. Meaning turn the flow control clockwise a bit without obstructing the flow of water. You don't want those open all the way. That should do it. Good luck!

We appreciate your support and look forward to you purchasing your parts at www.SprinklerWarehouse.com

We are at the 28th Annual International Irrigation Show in San Diego.
You can place your order online at www.SprinklerWarehouse.com and it will ship Wednesday morning.
If you would like to speak with us before placing your order, please call Wednesday morning and we will be available to assist you.

Hi again.
I'm now down here at the Florida house, and that one bad valve is really dripping bad. I want to place an order. I've called customer service a couple of times, but have only gotten a voice mail. No problem, but I need a couple of questions answered before I place the order, and because of the dripping and the fact that i'm only down here for a couple of weeks, I really need to get this done.

1) I'm a bit confused......the 4 valves are all 1" valves, but the pipes going up to the valves are only 1" OUTSIDE diameter....the 1" PVC pipes at the big box store must be 1" ID, because the OD for 1" PVC pipe is like 1 5/16". So my question is.....is the pipe coming up from the ground 3/4" pipe, and if so, what size valves do I buy....1" or 3/4" ??

2) I also have a shipping question. I see that you ship using UPS. That's good, because UPS will deliver to me......BUT, sometimes UPS has USPS deliver to them. If they do that, I have a problem. All my USPS mail sent to Florida gets forwarded to my NY house. That would be very bad.......I need these valves here, not in NY, so I must make sure that UPS will deliver them, not the post office.