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Firefight911

Firefight911

Girls Gone Wild for sure, Sharon. Good grief, it appears that someone is in need of a ride!!

All the Autocom stuff arrived on Thursday afternoon. Need to have an electrification party in my garage soon. Jamie and I have work to do!!! Everything is now in - Zumo, mounts, Autocom, B2B, Centech fuse block, relays. Need to go get some wire and connectors and it's party time.

Did a chain adjustment on the F8 the other day. A bit more initial stretch than I would like to have seen but I expect that it won't be needed again more than once. Been a while since I've had to do a chain adjustment/lube. hee hee!

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Twisties

Twisties

Every time I went out there she was making intemperate remarks. I know when it's time to make myself scarce. Although she did accept my analysis on the issue of using, or not using, the stock spacers on the rear mount points.

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Firefight911

Firefight911

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Bullett

Bullett

Our "spacer" disagreement is basically whether the stock spacer should be left in under this rear mount.

Without the spacer the cross bar for the sidecase mounting system will attach to 2 bolts screwed into two holes here. It appears that a portion of the mount assembly will rest on the black plastic, possibly creating too much stress on it.

If the stock metal spacer that fits down into the hole in the plastic is used, the mount should rest on metal, instead of plastic.

The picture shows the assembly without the spacer and before the assembly is tightened down.

I will probably send Rick an email and ask whether Jesse intends for the spacer to be used or not.

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Bullett

Bullett

Looks great, Sharon. I'm having a hard time figuring out how the bags mount on the racks. How about a picture of the back of the bags and maybe a picture of them mounted. Or am I jumping the gun?

Al,

These pictures show the mounting assembly attached to the bags:

Lower mount assembly

There is a hard plastic (or something) piece that fits down over the lower bar on the lower mount, the silver metal piece with the right angle is pushed up to sit flush against the upper portion of the lower mount, then four hex head screws inside near the center of the stiffener piece, are tightened down.

Upper and lower mounting assemblies

Inside the bag, looking down from the top. The upper mount is screwed on tight against the upper mounting bracket. You can see the four allen head screws that tighten the lower bracket down below the crank.

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Twisties

Twisties

It's intended to transfer the load to the frame, and keep it off the body plastic. After looking up "bushing", I think would be the correct term. She didn't show you a pic of the item itself. Just where it would go, sort of.

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dhanson

dhanson

We have warm weather here today and this weekend also, Jean is excited to ride. I just epoxied some magnets under the side panels to hold a modified Manta tank bag to hold the Kenwood, she didn't like carrying it in her pocket.

Also just installed the Rox Risers (came in last night) to move the bars closer to her (her arms were straight). They are about 1-3/4" closer and 1-1/4" higher, tight fit with the ROX but they work. Test tomorrow.

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Bullett

Bullett

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dhanson

dhanson

UPDATE on the ROX risers. Had to take them off, found that while making a tight right turn the clutch will disengage due to binding of the clutch cable up front.

These are the 2" ROX risers. They might be okay in another position or moving the clutch bracket on the handlebar closer in, but I did not choose to do that. We only needed them to adjust the bars farther back so she would not have to reach.

If I find that she has plenty of visibility with the left mirror then moving the clutch mount inward would be an option, but I like the mirrors to be matched on both sides.

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JustJean

JustJean

You see David just told me how much easier it was going to be and then I got on here and read what he said about it still being tall in first gear. He is trying to make my brain accept the fact I need to get some balls and give it some gas!!

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Bullett

Bullett

I have some Dremel bits left over from my dead Dremel tool that I can hook up to my cordless drill--although I see this as the perfect excuse to get another Dremel. Much lighter than a cordless drill and better speed control, I think.

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dhanson

dhanson

Madstad avises that you can bandsaw the screen pretty ease, same blade as for wood, but I have not had to do it yet.

The barbacks make the clutch too tight and cable will have to be rerouted, also the brake line is too tight, but these moved thebars 1-3/4" back and 1" up, 1" back probably would be better so as not to mess with the clutch.

Also like Danny said, if you already have a good fit/reach then don't change it.