Tasting and visit: Clos des Langres 2011 Monopole Domaine d'Ardhuy

Tasting
and visit: Domaine d’Ardhuy

Part
2: Clos des Langres Rouge 2011 Monopole

The chateau of Domaine d’Ardhuy is surrounded by a walled garden,
filled with Pinot Noir vines, called the Clos des Langres. I visited the Clos
des Langres in March this year, and this is part two of my review, on the Clos
des Langres Rouge 2011 Monopole.

The Clos des Langres is filled with Pinot Noir, with the exception
of two rows of Chardonnay. Emma Barbier, Marketing Manager, informed me that
some time ago vineyard managers noticed that two rows in the eastern corner of
the vineyard did not grow as well as others. This row constantly produced
smaller and less flavourful grapes. After a bit of investigation, it was
realised that a vein of minerally limestone ran under those two rows only, from
the ridgeline formed during the formation of the Hill of Corton. Of course,
millions of years ago, the flow of water (and the dropping of minerals and
fossils) along the Côte de Beaune was much different.

Inside the tasting room, Emma set out an array of Domaine wines for
tasting. You can read my review of the Corton Hautes Mourottes Grand Cru 2009
here. The Clos des Langres is a different proposition, but no less illustrious
in history. Originally harvested and grown by monks (as most vineyards were
here), it has been recognised since the 19th century as a place of
grapes of the highest quality. When the AOC system was introduced, Corgoloin
(where the Domaine is located) refused to pay the entry fees for the AOC (much
the same as Fixin, until recently), and so has no real appellation.

Recently biodynamic principles have been introduced into the
vineyard and the effects of these changes are yet to be fully assessed. But
certainly, less human interference in all facets of the winemaking process is
crucial. Grapes are only punched down during fermentation for extraction. 30%
new oak for one year, and the wine is unfined and goes through minimal
filtration.

2011 is widely reported as another in a series of fine vintages for
Burgundy, despite yielding 11.5% less than 2009 and 13.5% more than 2010. Generally,
according to Clive Coates, the reds are more hailed than the whites (a good
write-up available here http://www.clive-coates.com/news/2011-vintage). When I
tasted this wine, it was definitely intriguing. I have said a few times that my
new world wine exposure has left me a little in the wilderness when tasting
Burgundies, and even more adrift when tasting biodynamic Burgundy. But here
goes!

A beautiful shimmering red colour, with red and black fruits intense
on the nose. Rather significant presence of vanilla from the oak, which is
strange considering it was only 30% new. I found the wine a different beast
completely to the Corton Hautes Mourottes of my first tasting. Not as complex,
and yet rather more intriguing. I wanted to put this wine down as a good
drinker but not outstanding, yet it held on. Of all the wines in the tasting, I
considered this to be the hardest to put my thumb on. Perhaps it was my contact
with the vineyard and the vines that made it harder to get a grip on just what this
wine was all about. Leather and a furry presence on the mid-palate too, great
with game dishes. It’s kind of rustic, in a way that always bring your mind
back to Burgundy. This wine will live a long life. 90 points.

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I think I was captured by how essentially natural or organic the whole process of winemaking is. It's farming, it's viticulture, it's weather and soil, and many more things. It's the winemaker. But after all these things, after the cap is unscrewed or the cork popped, I (and you) get to enjoy it. Then we talk about it and learn some more. Which is, I guess, the reason why you're here! Here you'll find stories, links, wine education samples and wine reviews. I am entirely independent and my wine reviews and ratings are based on my own thoughts and opinions. I accept no endorsements for products or good reviews.
Enjoy! I can be reached for comments, feedback and questions at dbtaylor01@gmail.com.
Good drinking to you!
David