Downtown Seoul

You don't need to go to back alleys or historic markets (although those are great!) to sample traditional snacks in Korea; almost all the major boulevards in the center sprout mini-kitchens, set up on the sidewalk even across from chic western-style businesses. Here, next to an artisanal French pâtisserie and across from a café (Seoul is caffeinated and macaron-crazed), I sampled kim-mah-ree—sweet potato noodles wrapped in seaweed, dipped in tempura batter, then deep-fried. Sizzling oil speaks all languages!