Im sure that this has been talked about on here, but i have to ask. what are my options for swaping the 6 lug drums on my 68 for 6 lug discs. 5 lug discs are not an option! what will i need, how much is it gunna cost me and are there any pics?

Junk yard 73-87 "heavy half ton" spindles, for the 1.5" wide disk brakes, matching calipers. Get 73-87 outter tie rod. Keep your stock tie rod end and use which ever has the correct threads. We believe on my truck that the tie rods were swapped in my truck's past and were put on wrong... But I used the 'stock' outer and '73-87 outter with teh CPP conversion tie rod sleeve. CPP 6-lug rotors. New brake lines. Put the 73-87 ball joints into your stock arms, and put in the 73-87 spindle, newly made conversion tie rod, and you can start driving there. Yes, it is highly reconmended to swap the MC and prop valve, but you can live with out it for the time beeing. I run the setup as is and I do pizza delivery. Trust me, this truck has NO problem coming to a stop. And it's seen a few thousand miles. Even in the wet it's still very stable and easy to work with out locking up. And far better than any drum brake setup can offer.

The disk brake MC and Prop valve can be pulled from a 73-87 donor, but it take a bit of work to make sure all the geometry works in the brake linkage in some cases. Or you can surf the board and find a good deal on a 67-72 setup as well. I got my MC and prop valve for $60 bucks. Just haven't had the down time to get to my dad's to swap it all in and put in some new hard lines (just to optimize the setup to it's best).

Spent maybe 400-500 and was dirt easy to do once you got the parts list figured out.

bigblue72 im having the same dilema swapping over just went and got 69or 70 spindles and bought sixlug rotor from lmc truck went to put em on the upper and lower balljoints are different sizen im in high school moneys tight so do i have to get the 69upper and lower balljoints?went to advanceauto 71-75 upper and lowers dont fit for somereason ? any help would be greatly appreciated. and waiting on the 69 balljoints to come in is there any difference between the 69 and like the other guy said 73-87 balljoint diameter???? pls help

Well i ended up saving my money for a complete kit but there are differenced between the 67-70 balljoints and then 71-72 ball joints i think? what year is your truck? im sure some one will jump in with more information on the subject

bigblue72 im having the same dilema swapping over just went and got 69or 70 spindles and bought sixlug rotor from lmc truck went to put em on the upper and lower balljoints are different sizen im in high school moneys tight so do i have to get the 69upper and lower balljoints?
went to advanceauto 71-75 upper and lowers dont fit for somereason ?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
and waiting on the 69 balljoints to come in is there any difference between the 69 and like the other guy said 73-87 balljoint diameter????
pls help

'69 balljoints will be the same as your '68 balljoints.

Ball joint break down:UPPERS:
65-70
71-72
73-87

LOWERS:
65-70
71-87

Like your other thread,... what year spindles do you have?
(donor truck year?)
I'd like to help,... but we gotta have more info!

For a rear I've seen some people use a mid 90s camaro caliper bracket and calipers then an 88 chevy 1/2 ton rotor. Don't know what they did for hoses though. Remember when going from drum to disc you'll need a proportioning valve. Other wise the rear brakes will always be slightly engaged. If you have a none power drums as some do you pedal pin on your brake pedal will have to be moved down 1" due to less leverage needed for power brakes done do this and the brakes will be way to solidPosted via Mobile Device

I am working on piecing together front disks for my 70. I want to keep it 6 lug.
My buddy had the MC, calipers, prop valve out of a 72. he was planning to a disk swap but then he traded the truck to me, his plan was to swap the cross member and all from the 72.
I want to put drop spindles so all I really need to buy are the spindles, 6 lug rotors, and whatever lines I need. I picked up rebuild kits for the calipers for something like $9 each. I can get a reman MC for $22 at advanced. My original booster should work fine. my truck has relatively new ball joints all around as well as springs and shocks.
so I need a mc $22 Wheel Bearings $20 per wheel, rotors $80 each, drop spindles $228, brake lines and hoses for the front... still have to figure out how much those will be. Break Pads $26. I figure I will be around $600 when all is said and done... all I need then are the drop springs and shocks and I will have my 2.5/4 drop and my disk conversion done.

LOLIFE99, texasidoit I HAVE A 1969 C10 WITH DRUMS FRONT AND REAR AND A 1985 C10 FRAME LOWERED WITH LOWERING SPRINGS AND DROP SPINDLES. I WANT TO DO THE WHOLE CROSSMEMBER SWAP BUT I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO KEEP My GEAR BOX AS I PLAN TO STAY NONE POWER STEERING. ALSO STAYING NONE POWER BRAKES FOR THE TIME BEING. do you have any suggestions what approach i should go with i have the whole frame with all steering links including steering box. but no steering column. i have been looking at forum after forum and still kinda lost to the procedure on the swap. any and all help is apprecaited

LOLIFE99, texasidoit I HAVE A 1969 C10 WITH DRUMS FRONT AND REAR AND A 1985 C10 FRAME LOWERED WITH LOWERING SPRINGS AND DROP SPINDLES. I WANT TO DO THE WHOLE CROSSMEMBER SWAP BUT I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO KEEP My GEAR BOX AS I PLAN TO STAY NONE POWER STEERING. ALSO STAYING NONE POWER BRAKES FOR THE TIME BEING. do you have any suggestions what approach i should go with i have the whole frame with all steering links including steering box. but no steering column. i have been looking at forum after forum and still kinda lost to the procedure on the swap. any and all help is apprecaited

Swap the crossmember and everything. Keep the manual steering box that you desire. You'll reuse the pitman arm off of the manual box. It bolts right to the later model steering linkage without mods. Done deal.

I just did this swap on my 1970 a couple of weekends ago. I bit the bullet and bought the Early Classic Enterprises kit. My ball joints and tie rods were in good shape so this seemed like the way to go since I got to keep all that stuff. The kit included top quality, new components, and it was complete right down to the washers.