Midnight Club 3: Dub Edition Remix Walkthrough :

This walkthrough for Midnight Club 3: Dub Edition Remix [Playstation 2] has been posted at 01 May 2010 by orro and is called "Midnight Club 3: DUB Edition Customization Guide". If walkthrough is usable don't forgot thumbs up orro and share this with your freinds. And most important we have 7 other walkthroughs for Midnight Club 3: Dub Edition Remix, read them all!

Walkthrough - Midnight Club 3: DUB Edition Customization Guide

Midnight Club 3: Customization Guide
Written by Matthew Norton, Chief Editor of the Division of Game
Assistance, a division of The Contact Publishing Corp.
---- Table of Contents ----
1. Intro and Copyright
2. Version History
3. Performance Parts
4. Detail Parts
5. Paint Sets
6. Paint Adjustments
7. Body Parts
8. Re-inventing the Wheel
a. Identify What You Want To Do
b. Misconceptions
c. Tires
d. The Wheelie Bar
e. Bike Treads
f. Spoilers
g. Hydraulics
h. Airbag Suspension
i. Conclusion
9. Interesting Builds
10. FAQ
11. E-mail Disclaimers
12. Outro
---- 1. Intro ----
Ah, yes, Midnight Club 3. For any system, it is indeed a marvel of
entertainment and engineering, melded together to create a great
driving experience. Cars, trucks, SUVs, and bikes, a greater mix of
vehicles than anyone can assemble. Oh, who am I kidding, THIS GAME
ROCKS OUT LOUD!
I created this guide because I found a disturbing absence of knowledge
about actual parts in the game, and how even small things can be
changed to contribute to overall performance.
... And as for the Copyright?
(C) 2005 The Contact Publishing Corp.
The Division of Game Assistance is a registered trademark of The
Contact Publishing Corp.
All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or
in part in any form.
Midnight Club 3: DUB Edition is (C) 2005 Rockstar Games. All rights
reserved. Rockstar Games is a registered trademark of Take-Two
Interactive Software, Inc.
---- 2. Version History ----
1.00 - All sections filled to the best of my knowledge, no FAQ, yet...
---- 3. Performance Parts ----
Engine:
Turbocharger/Supercharger: Forced Air Induction/
Intake: Air intake for combustion
Headers: Exit pipes from the engine to the exhaust
Exhaust: Releases exhaust from engine
Engine Upgrade: Polishing and buffing of engine parts for increased
performance
Nitrous: Boosts speed when used
Computer/Jet Kits (Bike): Changes the computer to increase power
Transmission:
Clutch: The interface between person (or computer) and gears
Gear Kits: The transfer of power from engine to axle to tires.
Chassis:
Suspension: The springs, shocks and struts connecting car to wheels
Sway Bars: Adjusts amount of roll (tendency of car to shift weight in
turns)
Airbags: Compressed air suspension (does not effect car)
Hydraulics: Hydraulic suspension that allow for the movement of the
distance between wheel and car (not required)
Tires: The rubber that transforms movement of the axle and engine into
movement of the car
Brakes: Stops or slows car
There are three levels for each upgrade (stock, level 1, level 2),
except the tires, which has four (stock, level 1, level 2, level 3).
Hydraulics has only two options (on or off), and the airbags purchase
depends on the way the airbags depress.
---- 4. Detail Parts ----
Vinyls:
a. Styles:
Modern
Flames
Splash
Stripes
Graphix
Wild
Rips
Tribal
Manufacturers
Flags (Different versions of the R* logo)
b.Colors: Most can have their color changed, except the Flags, which
are predetermined.
License Plates:
a. States: They consist of every state, including older versions of
the California, Georgia, and Michigan license plates, and of
unchangeable TIS, DUB, and R* logos.
b. Letters: All states' numbers can be changed except the special
plates.
Decals:
Front/Back: Consist of writable, Manufacturer and After-Market logos.
Side: Only after-market companies are available. Can place up to 10
logos.
Standard Color: Stickers are pre-colored (except for custom), and are
flat in finish.
Chrome Color: Stickers are colored by the same methods as the rims,
exhaust, and trim of a vehicle.
Badges:
Side: Consist of DUB and 20-28 inch labels that signify the size of
the rim. Placed near the front wheel well;
Rear: Same as the Side badge, except place somewhere on the rear of
the vehicle, usually near the name of the vehicle on the trunk.
---- 5. Paint Sets ----
Matte: A flat, no-shine paint job. If time is taken in the custom
settings, one can make a jet black "secret-agent" type color that is
totally black and unreflective.
Gloss: A flat, shiny paint job, but without reflective flakes in the
paint.
Metallic: A deep, shiny paint job with specially designed flake in the
paint, causing a much shinier reflection.
Pearlescent: A pearl-looking paint job, in which the two chosen colors
meld together into a unique color pattern.
Color Shift: Also called chameleon paint, when viewed in different
lights, it reflects different colors.
---- 6. Paint Adjustments ----
Paint Job: The paint that covers the exterior of the vehicle.
Window Tinting: Replaces the tint color of the windows.
Rims: Changes the colored metal plating of the rim.
Brake Calipers: Changes the paint color of the calipers of the brakes.
Exhaust: Changes the metal plating of the exhaust.
Neon: Allows for the addition of neon, along with changing the color
of the glow, and speed of the flash on the neon.
Nitrous: Changes the flame color of the nitrous exhaust when
activated.
HUD: Changes the color of the Heads Up Display (speedometer, time,
directional arrow)
---- 7. Body Parts ----
Note: Not all parts are available on each vehicle.
Front Bumper: Replaces the front of the vehicle.
Rear Bumper: Replaces the rear of the vehicle.
Side Upgrades: For Tuners, SUVs, trucks, and sedans, it replaces the
lowest part of the vehicle's side panel. On most muscle cars, it puts
a side scoop or cover over the rear wheel well.
Hood: Replaces the hood, or changes the hood's material.
Spoiler: Places or replaces the wing on the rear of the vehicle.
Taillights: Changes the style or material of the taillights.
Exhaust Tips: Changes the end of the exhaust. On bikes, it changes the
material of the muffler. On muscle cars, it can change the muffler
from the rear of the vehicle to the side (Useful if the muscle car in
question needs a side panel to match the low front and rear of the
vehicle.)
Front Grills: Changes the front grill pattern of your vehicle.
Chop Top: Lowers the roof of your vehicle.
One Shot Kits: Changes the smaller parts of your vehicle (door
handles, other molded parts) to chrome or painted.
Brush Guards: Adds a protective bar to the front of your vehicle,
meant for removing obstacles from your path.
Wheelie Bars: Meant to control rear ups (see Re-inventing the Wheel,
d. The Wheelie Bar for more information).
Mud Flaps: Adds mud flaps to protect vehicles behind you from getting
hit with kicked-up objects.
Louvers: Adds a series of flat, metal bars connected down the
windshield to contour the air.
Riders: Changes the driver of the bike.
Rims: Changes the rims of the wheels to a different style.
Tires: Changes the style of the tires. On bikes, this changes the
visible tread of the bike.
---- 8. Re-inventing the Wheel: Utilizing Wheels and Body Parts for
Performance and Looks ----
a. Identify What You Want To Do
Many times, people automatically go for "big rims, little rubber"
because that's what they think looks the best. But many times after,
they end up heading back to the garage, cursing themselves because
they slid head on into that wall near the end of the race 50 times.
Why? Because the tires are the problem. Identify what you need to do,
is it over steering (easy to spin out or too slick in the turns), or
is it under steering (too difficult to turn, have to hold the e-brake
too long which slows you down)?
b. Misconceptions
Myth: The car is impossible to drive.
Fact: No car is too difficult to drive, it just need work.
Myth: But I don't have enough money to work on it!
Fact: Working on small things like tires and body work can improve
vehicle drivability, and are usually inexpensive or free.
Myth: But then it might not look good.
Fact: Maybe, but do you want to get past this part or not? And
besides, maybe it will look good.
c. Tires
The more tire width you have, the better. Period. Increasing tire
width will increase the amount of efficiency the brakes, steering, and
acceleration have, because all of those things work on the tire, and
the less the tire has to work with, the less the other things can use.
The lowest drive height can increase traction to a point, but sheer
point of contact (the patch of tire on the road when moving) is the
biggest player.
Size difference in tires of the front and rear can improve speed and
drivability. For example, large tires in the rear can improve
stability of the car on acceleration, while small rear tires can
improve top speed, but only somewhat. This is because when there is
less radius of a tire, it takes less time for the tire to rotate fully
on the circumference.
Decreasing the amount of rubber and increasing the size of the rims
can improve on the rigidity (strength of the movement of the
suspension), allowing for much more responsive handling, but can cause
a car to bounce on the curb. I always leave the tire profile at 2 when
purposely increasing rim size, and sometimes increase tire profile to
suit my drift-happy nature. Increased tire thickness between ground
and rim with give a softer movement. Think about silly putty, and how
if you flatten it in your hands and move your hand across it in
different directions. The thicker it is, the more time it takes for
the putty to roll in your hands.
d. The Wheelie Bar
Many people I've come across during play online laugh at my gaudy
wheelie bar, saying it makes the car look goofy. But they aren't
laughing as much when after I let go of the burnout, I don't rear up
(the car's torque lifting the front wheels up) as easily. Why? BECAUSE
THE WHEELIE BAR ACTUALLY WORKS! By putting the wheelie bar on the back
of your muscle car, you can improve start time due to the fact that
you have more control of your car.
Think of a teeter-totter. Someone pulls up on the one side (the torque
making the car rear up). But if something resists the force of the
pulling up, say someone else also pulling up on the other side (the
wheelie bar acting against the rear up) the forces balance out and the
teeter-totter does nothing (the front wheels stay on the ground). If
the wheels stay on the ground, you have full control of the steering!
e. Bike Treads
Useless? NO! The treads you put on your bike actually affect the
drivability of the car. The more complex and prominent the treads, the
more grip, but less steering. The less complex and prominent the tire
is, the more prone the bike is to over steer.
f. Spoilers
The biggest spoiler will not always be the best. Consider the size and
shape of the car before you put a spoiler that does nothing but weigh
down your car.
Trucks and the El Camino have open beds in the back. These open spaces
are cut off by the tailgate, which creates an air pocket, which
increases air resistance. Air resistance is obviously not good. Close
it up to increase top speed and acceleration.
Luxury sedans have a very slick body styling, and do not require
spoilers, but the performance can be improved by putting one on.
g. Hydraulics
Activating the hydraulics during a race is not a good idea. But
certain SUVs can be driven with hydraulics during a race when the
tires are put at the thickest settings, and the tire profile is as
large as possible. That will require the rims to be as small as
possible.
h. Airbag Suspension
The airbag option adds a slight softness to driving, while giving the
best reliability when driving. This will also lower the vehicle to the
lowest possible height automatically, unless you already have it at
the lowest setting, or a special custom setting, in which the airbags
will adjust the car to a higher setting and lower the car to the set
height.
i. Conclusion
In conclusion of "Re-inventing the Wheel," I must stress that no
matter how difficult it may seem; any car can become the best car with
a little work.
---- 9. Interesting Builds ----
The Dragster Muscle Look:
By decreasing the size of the rim and tire profile to the lowest size,
lowering it as low as possible, then change the rear tire profile to
the maximum size. Returning the rear to stock height, decreasing the
front tire width to the smallest, and increasing the rear to the
largest, you obtain the look of a classic dragster. IMHO, it looks
best with the '69 Camaro.
Monster Truck:
Decrease Rim size to the smallest, increase the profile to the max,
and widen the tires to the fullest. Looks even better when you raise
the truck with the hydraulics. Drives the best in the H2.
Hearse:
The El Camino has a topper back option. Put that on, paint it black,
and the rest is up to you.
The Fast and The Furious:
Many of the available tuning, body, and vinyl options are similar to
the cars in the movies. Just look up the pictures on the 'Net.
---- 10. FAQs ----
Questions? Ask me at TheContact23@aol.com.
First, the basics:
Q. How do I get/win/obtain "X"?
A. Wrong guide, my friend.
Q. But can't you just tell...?
A. No.
Q. You're mean.
A. You should read my guide to the bottom BEFORE you send an e-mail. If
you send me an e-mail that has nothing to do with my guide, expect a
mean, yet fully thought out, reply telling you to figure it out
yourself.
And now for the specific questions...
>>My 57 Bel Air's height is at stock. You said that the lowest height
>>setting would make the car slightly more stable. Does a higher car
>>mean less traction?
By lowering the vehicle to the lowest height, you increase the flow of
air over the car (the aerodynamics). Since the car is being pressed
down by the air, there is more pressure on the tires, increasing
traction. So yes, more often than not, a higher car means less
traction.
>>I got the Escalade EXT that you win from the Hotlanta Tournament and
>>I raced it with the Big Playas car club and won, but it still was
>>extremely slow. Mainly in acceleration and somewhat in top speed. I
>>tried the fixing the tires up to how you said but it still needs
>>work, any ideas?
Unfortunately, I'm afraid that tuning the tires will do very little to
increase top speed and acceleration. Tuning the tires can often mean
everything in a race, but should only be a supplement to your overall
performance. It may be important to fix your tires, but you should
tackle your actual tuning options first.
---- 11. E-mail Disclaimers ----
Don't ask me for help on a race, how to get the tuning options, or
where to find any secrets. This is the e-mail acceptance list:
E-mails regarding:
1. how to modify the tires a certain way
2. my opinions about your build
3. any unclear things about my FAQ
4. any (positive) suggestions or comments
5. additions you want to supply to my Interesting Builds section
will be answered and/or taken care of.
---- 12. Outro ----
And so, I hope this guide will help you on your way, whether you
learned something, or whether you found a new build idea. I have no
one to thank except Rockstar Games, DUB, and my boredom. Oh, BTW, if
you want to race, my name is CNTCT23 on the PS2 version.
Keep rollin'. Can't stop, won't stop.
(C) 2005 The Contact Publishing Corp.