It was a very good session : big wave, yes big waves ! we were only 3 surfers in the water at the peak of the swell. i took some big drop: hard to take, hard paddling, I can't see anything then a long long wall. With the lower tide, more people came. I felt several time because of wind.

10/22/09 Surfed two long secessions, the waves just kept getting better and better , morning started off with more of a southwest swell and kinda high tide. noon secession, the SW eased and a new stronger WNW started filling in. Waves became fast and larger. it was a work and school day, no hassle getting waves. I could hardly function after the second go-out. Too many waves, too much fun. Feeling good.

The temperature of the water is falling down: 3 or 4 ° just in one week. The swell was small and long. When I arrived, it was nearly only a close out. But I went into the water and after 10mn, the left started to work. There was only one problem... a strong current ! (that's why the left was working....) I was burnt after 1 hour !

I went down to catch a few waves before the football game at 4pm. Got out and found a few waves, but there was a strong drift to the south. So it was a constant fight to stay near the break. The water was at least 20 F warmer than the air, it was pretty freaky. I'm used to surfing in 65-70 F water normally with the air being 70-85 F. It was the first time I've seen the water so much warmer.

The wind was howling offshore and with the cold temp my head got cold real fast. Some dunks in the warm water took care of it though and it was certainly a lot better than surfing in 58 F water.

There were tons of small green fish near the beach and out in the lineup. After I had been out for almost an hour, I was paddling when I saw a 4 ft shark thrashing around the surface about 20 yards from me. He was tearing into some of those green fish.

I was happy that they were keeping him busy, but I didn't feel like getting in his way, even if he was fairly small. So I took the next wave into the shore.

Maybe he was good luck? My team had a huge win after my swim with the shark.

First rain of the year in SOCAL from a big low pressure system in the Gulf of Alaska, sliding down the coast bringing some overhead plus swells. Water in the river was a dirty black and full of trash getting washed down from the storm water drains. Of course I had to swallow some after getting pounded on the inside sand bar, hope I don't have to pay for it with Montezuma's Revenge!

Ouch: 1.5m, 12 s period... we went to the north and found some really powerful waves. It was in fact a big shorebreak which opened from time to time. I get tubes and mutant waves (larger than high...). It was a hard but fun session.

Hello Pumpkin heads: Season of Mists or Season of the Witch? Past three days surf has been classic chest to head high Ray Bay on an incoming tide with a combo of NW/SW groundswells. Clean glassy conditions with a light offshore ... breaking from Cuda's off the North river jetty across Middles to Crabs on the South breakwall.

We didn't expected much waves. But it was q good choice: we found really fun 80cm to 1.20 m waves. I got plenty of waves. The weather is really strange: 20°C the morning in october...Is it the global warming ?

This was the first time without instructor. Got my first waves in the green. Lots of fun. Cannot forget an old man catching every single wave making it as simple as it could be. Well done for him and great watching him.