Cantina Del Ponte

Tuesday 5 November 1996 00:00 BST

This review was first published in November 1996

Unforgiving surfaces, with nothing but a mural and an antique model of Tower Bridge beached on sand to soften impact, make for an extremely noisy atmosphere when the Cantina is crowded, but in the right mood this can be construed as fun. First courses include Serrano ham with grilled figs; bresaola with sweet mustard dressing; and chilled roast aubergine and sweet pepper soup with yoghurt and tapenade crostini. In other words, all fashionable bases are covered.

Pizzas from the wood-fired oven are more Cal-Ital than Neopolitan; smoked salmon with goat's cheese and basil; and prosciutto with avocado, pouss? and pine kernels. Grills run from fresh sardines with lemon and parsley to leg of lamb with pan-fried peppers and potatoes. Desserts are traditional: peach melba, pavlova, raspberry trifle and an unimpressive chocolate cheesecake. If after your meal you can't wait to have it again, most of the ingredients are on sale at the door.