Is it too late to get a deal on this unit??? Anyone know? Or should i just try and contact them direct.

I just read all 14 pages, but I see no indication of how one is supposed to know if they have Logic7....i'm new, and just bought a 2007 BMW 328i coupe...any insight on the matter would be greatly appreciated.

There are three systems world wide that are documented and another called the Dirac or personal audio that I haven't seen documentation on .

The base system or stereo system only made it to the US in 2010 2011
but has been distributed in other countries for I don't know how long. It has no tweeters in the front door sills next to the rear view mirrors.

the other two common systems Hi Fi and L7 have tweeters in the door sills and either in the rear doors or deck,

There are three systems world wide that are documented and another called the Dirac or personal audio that I haven't seen documentation on .

The base system or stereo system only made it to the US in 2010 2011
but has been distributed in other countries for I don't know how long. It has no tweeters in the front door sills next to the rear view mirrors.

the other two common systems Hi Fi and L7 have tweeters in the door sills and either in the rear doors or deck,

I finally connected the Dynavin HU directly to my JL XD600/6 with separtate RCA cables. The quality and sound performance is much better than it was using harness outputs. Before reqiring I could only turn the HU up to about 6 out of 40 because of the amplified output signal feeding my amp.

Now I can comfortably turn it up to 20. Front and rear amp gains set to zero, subs (SWS-8 2ohm) running about 50% gain. Amp X-overs set at about 150HZ. Before rewiring I experienced a loud hissing noise when using any HU bass or treble. It's completely gone now.

I have a coupe and ran the wires under the lip of the center console trim on the passenger side. I popped up the rear passenger seat and ran the wires under the rear center console and into the trunk. Should have taken less than 1 hour, but of course ended up being about 3 by the time i was finished tweaking everything.

For anyone who has the Dynavin HU and plans to pull it out of the dash for any reason, be aware that it might not come out like it went in. The metal clips that screw into the assembly below climate control are designed to engage against a lip that sticks up in the lower part of the HU location. There is no way to pull straight out.

Carefully pull the upper part of the HU back using a small diameter metal hook. Once pulled away enough to grasp with fingers continue to gentle pull back and up. This motion will foce the metal clips to bend enough to allow the HU to slip up and over the trapping edge.

Before reinstalling the HU I removed the clips and actually bent the parts that lock in so that they won't lock. The unit compresses inside the dash enough without needing the clips to lock in place. My HU is defective and is going to be replaced with a new one within the next coupld weeks - I didn't want to go through the awful removal process again.

Another update - I tried the Bluetooth music streaming using a Droid2 phone. Sound quality and frequency range was impressive. The only dissapointment was that when toggling to Navi mode the music cuts out. When connected to a call the Navi mode works without dropping call. I think it happens with streaming music becuase the system is not in a call - it is basically in stand-by mode when not in calls. It's in this stand-by mode while streaming music.

Now I can comfortably turn it up to 20. Front and rear amp gains set to zero, subs (SWS-8 2ohm) running about 50% gain.

That likely is not optimal. An amplifier's gain is really just an input sensitivity adjustment. In fact I wished they weren't even called gains because it misleads people.

The gain knob allows the amplifier to connect to different pre-amplifiers that may have varied output line levels. Your amp likely has voltage values written around the knob. Perhaps something in the millivolt range up to whole volt numbers. (100mV to 2V, or something like that). That voltage should match, likely at 1kHz, the voltage present on the RCA cables.

Realistically the average end user will not understand nor have the ability to measure voltage on the RCAs. My point in explaining this is that perhaps you shouldn't have the gain "all the way down". You might be doing yourself a disservice. Of course I don't know what speakers you have, the may be really sensitive and as such require the amp to be down.

That likely is not optimal. An amplifier's gain is really just an input sensitivity adjustment. In fact I wished they weren't even called gains because it misleads people.

The gain knob allows the amplifier to connect to different pre-amplifiers that may have varied output line levels. Your amp likely has voltage values written around the knob. Perhaps something in the millivolt range up to whole volt numbers. (100mV to 2V, or something like that). That voltage should match, likely at 1kHz, the voltage present on the RCA cables.

Realistically the average end user will not understand nor have the ability to measure voltage on the RCAs. My point in explaining this is that perhaps you shouldn't have the gain "all the way down". You might be doing yourself a disservice. Of course I don't know what speakers you have, the may be really sensitive and as such require the amp to be down.

The JL amp has no labels around the gain adjustment. I am trying to be cautious with my front and rear speakers as they're all OEM. No doubt the sound is remarkably better than with the OEM amp and upgraded subs, but I really don't want to blow my door speakers since there is no easy drop-in for e92.

The JL amp has no labels around the gain adjustment. I am trying to be cautious with my front and rear speakers as they're all OEM. No doubt the sound is remarkably better than with the OEM amp and upgraded subs, but I really don't want to blow my door speakers since there is no easy drop-in for e92.

Hi, do you have logic 7?
I have it and im confused about getting this HU.
Thanks for any help

Hi, do you have logic 7?
I have it and im confused about getting this HU.
Thanks for any help

You can use this in a car with L7, it's just not an easy undertaking.

Your biggest hurdles are:

a. You will need to keep the OEM head unit tucked away in the car.
b. Your factory L7 amp will not work. You will need to power the factory speakers from the Dynavin unit and/or additional amplifiers. Your L7 system has 14 individual drivers, powered by nine independent channels. The Dynavin headunit has only 4-channels of power. Do you want to add additional amplifiers, give up some speakers or a combination of both?

a. You will need to keep the OEM head unit tucked away in the car.
b. Your factory L7 amp will not work. You will need to power the factory speakers from the Dynavin unit and/or additional amplifiers. Your L7 system has 14 individual drivers, powered by nine independent channels. The Dynavin headunit has only 4-channels of power. Do you want to add additional amplifiers, give up some speakers or a combination of both?

But I told them that I do have L7 and they still say it's plug and play

It would be great if you could read all the replies before asking the same question over and over again.

Here's biz77's response to you a few posts up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by biz77

You can use this in a car with L7, it's just not an easy undertaking.

Your biggest hurdles are:

a. You will need to keep the OEM head unit tucked away in the car.
b. Your factory L7 amp will not work. You will need to power the factory speakers from the Dynavin unit and/or additional amplifiers. Your L7 system has 14 individual drivers, powered by nine independent channels. The Dynavin headunit has only 4-channels of power. Do you want to add additional amplifiers, give up some speakers or a combination of both?