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Chinese label Sankuanz, led by designer Shangguan Zhe, showed its marine-inspired FW19 collection at Sotheby’s on the opening day of Paris Fashion Week.

Last season explored ideas of restriction and constraint, but FW19 honed in on different binaries, specifically destruction and protection, and attack and defense. The collection was a deconstruction of what divers wear, with unexpected materials and disrupted elements throughout. The show notes pointed to the silhouette of orcas (aka killer whales) as a particular inspiration for the sleek, streamlined shapes and shiny, patent finishes.

Among the standout FW19 pieces were the leatherwear, which came in sea blue, black, and croc-embossed variations, with waterproof outer zips inspired by actual diving suits to give a feeling of complete protection. The tailoring was also notable, with a pattern that somewhat resembled the binary code seen in The Matrix, styled with a contrasting utility vest that popped against the more formal suiting, with lime green stitching, metallic double zips, and a dragon emblem patch.

The collection saw the introduction of women’s looks, a first for the brand, taking the form of leather tuxedos and body-con long-sleeve tees. As most brands are wont to do in the current landscape, Sankuanz also showed a new collaboration for FW19, this time with lifestyle bag brand Herschel Supply. The collab tapped into the collection’s marine-life theme, with three waterproof and airtight adjustable bags inspired by scuba apparel.

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