> I know this is for our older trucks, but I have a question on my
> '96 F150 4x4. I just pulled it out of the car wash when the tranny
> cable snapped, Had to crawl underneath and shift it by hand. Has

Ask a ford service rep if there is a recall on your truck for this.
The 97's were recalled for a cable problem and some had to be
replaced.

I need some help of a problem with Mr. Ranger. It is a 1971 F100,
with the 360, and C-4. The problem is that the Truck will not idel
in reverse, drive, 2 or 1, but it will in park and nutral at 1500 RPM.
I put a new carborator, and distributer in the truck. I have vacume
on every line but the one from the transmition. The shifts are also
delaying, it is shifting at 3500 RPM. Some of the guys I have talked
to said that it might be the torque converter. Have any of you had
this problem? Please give me some ideas.

reversion is the reason that exhaust ports are always smaller than the
headers/manifold. the edges are always left sharp, and a bit smaller than
the headers/manifolds.

a little mismatch in the intake side is ok, as long as the intake is
smaller. in fact, in a book i had for the 460 they said no power was
gianed or lost by portmatching the intake. this is of course only one
test, and other tests show a loss/gain. the 428 is a fairly long stroke
motor, so that intake will have higher velocities in it than if it was a
427 motor. i would opt for the intake being enlarged to the head leaving a
small mismatch of the smaller intake manifold port, or a complete port
match, which entails bolting the parts together with a piece of material
similiar in thickness to the gasket (like cardboard) and then removing
them, and porting out the intake to match the head using the marks left on
the cardboard from the head, cardboard.

Sorry Sleddog! There is nothing wrong with you communication skills.
It was just my Deacon Blues "hooked on twisting words" that's at fault!
Only one part of my anatomy is wise. It often raises a quite a stink
when it thinks it has something to say!
I agree with you 100%! As a wise man once said; "It takes two to
make a relationship work but only one to screw it up!" I hope you know I
meant no disrespect (I believe you do). I also have a respect for you
(along with many others here on this list) to publicly say, I have been
enriched knowing you!

thanks, and no, i know you meant no disrespect. it made me laugh! in fact
the first time i didn'r get it, had to read real slow to pick it up. i
often see the opertunity to "twist words" and find if i bite my fingers
hard enough i can't type with them.

i also agree with the following:

sleddog
As Azie stated once (far more eloquent than I will attempt to
paraphrase). There are only two things a man can be proud of being. A
good husband and a good father! Everything else is vanity. Sorry Azie. I
can't remember your words, but I believe the spirit is the same. There
is a third hat. One that says a person cares about others. All three
hats add up to only one. This hat is wore by a large majority of our
list members. In my forty two years I have found we are all equal. Some
may find this attitude disrespectful, others will agree fully. Those
that find it disrespectful, ware no hat at all!
One may ask "Where are you going with this Deacon?" It was asked not
to long ago if we are a club. This list lacks something that I have
found on most other list I belong to. The "my way is the right way"
attitude that seems so prevalent on other list. At times it may be
frustrating or differences of opinion may get out of line. But I know of
no other list that has people that care enough to send a personal e-mail
to cool a person off or so quickly forgive and put aside a foolish
temper tantrum. Both of which I am thankful for! There are no band
wagons to jump on nor are there blind leaders of blind followers.
Through the faithful leadership of Ken and Peggy and the overwhelmingly
helpful, knowledgeable members. There is but one answer. Call us;
"The International Ford Truck Enthusiasts Club of the World Wide
Web"
Do I hear an Amen?
For the more shallow among us. If we can find club discounts by
calling ourselves a club, what the hell! I'm as shallow as the next guy!
I do believe Ken said at one time we could look into this. If there's no
objections. Introduce yourself as a member of a Ford truck club with a
world wide membership of 1500+ and ask if they offer a club discount.
Just give them our URL for confirmation of our existence and who knows!
They may buy a banner. We'll make money! I can get my Ford Truck
Enthusiasts hat, lunch box, cool cup and "T" shirt! There it goes,
raising a stink again.
Later Gang! :~)

Well gang(s) I've got about 15 companies sending me info on some 2
post, above ground lifts and some in grounds as well. I was going to
try to get a used one but they seem to be outlawed so I went to the
net and man! They're all over the place new for $2500 - $5500!

The ones I'm looking at are side by side with frame arms for a clear
under side and pretty good clearance for body work and stuff top side
as well. They bolt to a "good Quality" 4" concrete floor in most
instances. Found one on sale for $2695 complete. They typically fit
into a building with 12' ceiling and some will fit lower ceilings
but have a floor plate for the cables to run in.

I have a pit but want to set the barn up for my shop and make the
garage a garage again for my wife's car and my daily driver as well
so a lift is the cat's meow and cheap too! I hope you guys are as
excited as I am about this :-)

Bummer, I won't need the compressor now.............well maybe for
the other stuff but now I don't need one as big..........shucks! :-)

Backyard buddies has a 4 post that uses ramps but will actually stack
two cars for storage if you need the space and it's only $2895 but I
don't want to have to drive up on it and have the tires tied up with
ramps so the frame deal is best for my purpose.

> I put a new carborator, and distributer in the truck. I have
> vacume
> on every line but the one from the transmition. The shifts are also
> delaying, it is shifting at 3500 RPM. Some of the guys I have
> talked to said that it might be the torque converter. Have any of
> you had this problem? Please give me some ideas.

First make suer you have no vacuum leaks then make sure you have
direct manifold vac to the modulator with no leaks then adjust the
carb in park to idle smoothly at about 600 rpm. Check distributor
vac to make sure it's working properly to preclude any timeing
problems. If you have to run it at 1500 rpm in neutral something's
wrong with the tune or you have a serious vacuum leak.

I have never had such a good time on any list. I've learned lots and lots
and am having tons of fun.

I even learned from Azie that either I'm not old after all, or he has old
grandchildren ;-).

Okay, here's my story. When I was growing up in the farming town of Two
Hills, Alberta (pop. 600, official language:Ukrainian) EVERYBODY had a nice
D*dge car in their driveway and a Ford Truck that they used for work.
Including this old guy I used to (yes Azie he was over 30, well over twice
that actually) get babysat by and he'd take me hunting and fishing and we'd
travel around peoples farms and stuff cause he was good at fixing stuff like
tractors. Got to go to my fair share of auctions and stuff too. He went
through 2 or 3 trade-ins, always had the Ranger model, and always a 250.

So, my happiest childhood memories are in a Ford truck. My dad was showing
me pictures of back then last Christmas and there was one picture of me 4
years old (okay Azie, I mean 4 years young) (ha!) sitting on a picnic table
on main street at the annual Two Hills pancake breakfast with (you guessed
it) a tailgate in the background with the telltale First On Race Day script.
No wonder I'm destined to always own one, I was practically born in one.

A while back I took a coupla years off to go travelling. And when I got back
one of the first things I bought was my 71 f250 4x4, and named her Alberta,
cause she's blue like the sky out there. Have had nothing but good moods in
her ever since. Nothin like the roar of an FE to put a smile on my face.

I'm sure most all of you have good memories like that, or something like
that too. Maybe that's what makes this list such a good place to be.

> > From: "jerald merrick"
> > Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 13:59:03 MST
> > Subject: Mr. Ranger, (71 F100)
>
> > I put a new carborator, and distributer in the truck. I have
> > vacume
> > on every line but the one from the transmition. The shifts are also
> > delaying, it is shifting at 3500 RPM. Some of the guys I have
> > talked to said that it might be the torque converter. Have any of
> > you had this problem? Please give me some ideas.
>
> First make suer you have no vacuum leaks then make sure you have
> direct manifold vac to the modulator with no leaks then adjust the
> carb in park to idle smoothly at about 600 rpm. Check distributor
> vac to make sure it's working properly to preclude any timeing
> problems. If you have to run it at 1500 rpm in neutral something's
> wrong with the tune or you have a serious vacuum leak.
>
The Ideal in drive, reverse is 650 RPM. and the manual that I am
working from said that the ideal needs to be about 1200-1500 in park.
and I know that all the lines but the one from the transmition to the
carb are working. It is dead on time, the points are gaped correctly,
the vacume advance is working. just can't get a vacume from the trany.

> Another option that I am interested in finding, is the 2500 Watt under the
> hood Power Pak generator that was available that year. Anyone ever seen one?
> Would they be expensive to acquire if they are still around somewhere?

My Guess would they would be the most common in the Camper Specials,
thats where I'd look. If you could get one out of a boneyard, I bet you
could walk out with one for pretty cheap. At least around here you
probably could. Depends though on the owner. Depending on the owner
that could be one of those arm and a leg parts.

gpark cymer.com wrote:
>
> Hey Tyler,
> Do you know if your block was cast at the Michigan plant verse the
> Cleveland one? I was practically shaking in my boots as I crawled up on my
> motor to shine a light on the casting mark (it's back by the oil pressure
> sender). I was so glad to see the "CF" mark, I banged my head on the hood.
> I guess it was only the Michigan 351M's that had the cracking problem built
> into them.

Bad news, looked by the oil sender unit. Found BK then some numbers, is
the dreaded castings of Cleveland (or was I hopefully looking at the
wrong number)?

My recollection is that the hose that supplies vacuum TO the transmission should
come from the intake manifold not the carb. The trans does not create vacuum so
if you are trying to measure the vacuum by putting a gauge on the hose going to
the trans you will see none unless you "T" it in.

I have a '69 460 short block that has been vat cleaned, new cam
bearings, new freeze plugs, polished crank and beed blasted rods. Its been
oiled and sitting in my garage in plastic for almost a year. Give me $250.00
and you can take it home. >>

Sounds like a good deal, assuming no Rust (its been in plastic) and they did a
good job building it. What about cylinders and rings?

with L&L brackets and up to my C-6 with no modification. Was 1969 a good
year for this engine? >>

69 was a good year. Depends on the particular head configurations, but just
about anything from that time frame was good.

I need some help of a problem with Mr. Ranger. It is a 1971 F100,
with the 360, and C-4. The problem is that the Truck will not idel
in reverse, drive, 2 or 1, but it will in park and nutral at 1500 RPM.
I put a new carborator, and distributer in the truck. I have vacume
on every line but the one from the transmition. The shifts are also
delaying, it is shifting at 3500 RPM. Some of the guys I have talked
to said that it might be the torque converter. Have any of you had
this problem? Please give me some ideas.

Thanks folks.
Jerry >>

Sounds like a severe vacuum leak. Get a vacuum gauge and hook her up.
Your readings will depend on the cam ,but assuming a stock at reasonable
altitude you should get something like 13-18. If the needle jumps back and
forth, you got a leak specific to a cylinder. If its just plain low, you got
a manifold or carb vacuum leak. You also may have really bad carbueration.
Check your spark plugs. If they are black and sooty, its way too rich. If
they look white and burned, its way too lean.
Also, check the timing. Look for between 2deg - 12deg BTC.

Gary: Who says that you have to get a smaller compressor... Look at all
the air tools that you may need at any one time or if you and/or other
half are both working on the vehicles at the same time you will need the
larger compressor... or when your are sanding down the body for a new
paint job, running out of air is the pits. KEEP the larger
compressor!!!!

I have had the exact same rig as yours now for about 20 years, and have been
quite happy with it. I've done exactly what you are after in terms of steering
and power brakes. First, find yourself a 76-79 F-150 4x4 at a junkyard. You'll
want the power steering box, and the ENTIRE front axle, it will have disk
brakes to boot. You can also get a power brake module (booster and master
cylinder) for the same year.

If you send me a message, I can give you all the details on the power steering
conversion. It will require some hole drilling and a little bit of torch work.
You'll also need to do a little welding on the steering shaft.

Secondly, the reason you want the entire front end is that the ball joints on
the 76-79 versions are WAY better than the 69's. I went through I don't know
how many pivot bearings (they are tapered roller bearings) at the ball joints.
The newer style units have completely integral units that press in (or go in
with a big hammer). Be sure to keep your old front end because you'll need to
change the pinion/ring gearing back to stock. The newer front end will likely
have something close to 4.09 or something, and your stock one is about 3.54...

Also, in the junk truck, if it a 76-77 model DON'T get the tie rod setup, it
is terrible. It give a bunch of backsteer when you hit any kind of bump. You
can just buy at the parts store a complete set of tie rods for the 78-79
model, they will fit right in the 76-77 front spindle carriers. However, if
you end up with a front end from 74 (I don't know about 75), these better
style rods will not fit into the tapers, which will have to be hawged out with
a die grinder....or taken to a machine shop. I think you'll want the disk
brakes anyway.

Finally, you'll need to pick up a new proportioning valve for the brake
system. It will be on your junk truck, but depending on how long its been
sitting, you can get one at Ford no problem (about $90). The power brake
booster and master cylinder should bolt right up. You might have to get a
special bushing from Ford for the attachment point on the brake pedal, though.

Thats all I can think of for now. Are you going to put in a lift kit at
all???? If so, you'll NEED the dual shock setup. With a 3-4" lift kit and only
a single shock, the front end will dive all over the place....You'll also need
to get new "C" pads, preferably the Pro-Thane units that provide the built in
offset (2 degrees, 4 degrees, etc.)

Jim Craig wrote:
>
> What do ya'll think of this?
>
> I have a '69 460 short block that has been vat cleaned, new cam
> bearings, new freeze plugs, polished crank and beed blasted rods. Its been
> oiled and sitting in my garage in plastic for almost a year. Give me $250.00
> and you can take it home.
>

Ok, I'm confused, are you selling this or replacing your 351 with it?
If your selling it, where are you located, I WANT IT!

OK...now wait just a dang minute! While I agree that if you're gonna spend
a chunk o' change on building some nice heads you should have'em "Mag'd", I
thought that 2V M heads were also 2V Cleveland heads! (Besides if I'm gonna
"Blow" my engine or fill it full o' funny gas, I'm sure as heck gonna put
the 4V heads on it.)

But what's the straight scoop on these heads anyway? According to the info
at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/cleveland.html the 2V heads came on both
the Cleveland and the M series, at least until 1973.

Bill Beyer
79 F-250 Ranger 4X4 400 C6 NP205
- ----------
> From: Chris Samuel
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: "M" Engine Heads
> Date: Monday, February 09, 1998 11:38 PM
>
> Having built several 351/400M engines over the last 7 or so years, I have
> come to some conclusions:
>
> First, always have the Heads "Mag'd" after they are removed from the
> engine for any reason; and before you do anything to them. These Heads
are
> "thin wall" castings. They crack, and become junk when they do so.
> Personally I will not even start to machine "M" Heads with out Mag'en
them
> first; but hey that's just me!
>
> Second if you intend to make over about 380 or so Horsepower, or use
> Nitrous, or a Blower of any kind, or abuse the engine on a regular basis
> don't waste you money on the "M" Heads; it really hurts to stuff $1800
in
> to a set of heads and have them crack under pressure. Go get the 2 BBL
> (not 4BBL)Cleveland Heads and use them as your starting point. They are
> mechanically the same except that the casting is heavier where it counts
and
> the alloy is different; consequently they don't crack (as easily).
Finding
> a good set of 2BBL Cleve. Heads is generally easier then finding a good
set
> of "M" Heads around here, though the do cost slightly more.
>

Hello from California.
> I put a new carborator, and distributer in the truck. I have vacume
>on every line but the one from the transmition. The shifts are also
>delaying, it is shifting at 3500 RPM.

One vacuum line for the transmission? I have two for my C4 in my '73
F100. When I rebuilt the top end last year I forgot to mark those two
lines. I couldn't find out where they went in any of my manuals. What
your describing sounds a lot like how my truck ran when I hooked them up
wrong. Did the C4 change from one line in '71 to two lines in '73? Will
a C4 bolt to a 360? My '76 F350 has a 360 C6.

Hello everyone!
I am going to be going through my '75 F250 4x4 next summer. Among
the things I plan on doing are swapping in a 460 from a '73 Grand
Marquie; and a NP 4-speed, "married" 205 transfer case, driveshafts, and
front axle all from a late '77 F250 4x4 that's in a junkyard (victim of
a rollover). Also a body from a '78 F150 Ranger.

Does anyone know if the stock accessory brackets on the 460 will fit
in my truck? Particularily, the steering pump? - The 460 has air
conditioning.
I am in need of the spacer plate for a 351/400M with a manual tranny
(the plate that mounts in-between the engine and bellhousing). Our local
wrecking yard doesn't have any. If anyone has one or knows where I can
get one, please let me know.
Also, does anyone know if the tie rods are the same from a '75 F250
4x4 to the '77 F250 4x4 HD (8100 GVWR)? I want to swap the 77 front axle
onto my 75 so I can get the reverse rotation for when I go to a
"married" t-case. The '75 has power steering and I need the hole in the
tie rod from the '75 onto the '77 axle for the steering assistor.
Oh ya, and does anyone know if this would be a Dana 60 or just a
heavy duty 44 frontend?
Thank you very much!

At 08:56 PM 2/10/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Hey Ken,
>How about checking this place out and getting us listed as a link off
>their pages. Also, they have a list into late '99 of car shows, but the
>one you are going to isn't listed.
>
>Oh, by the way... would we all be considered a automotive club? we
>don't have dues or by-laws, but we do live by the rules of our web
>site. So, are we a club?
>
>-=DENNIS=-

I have us listed as a club with a couple of sites. And I've
already contacted My Classic Car.

At 10:57 AM 2/11/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello Everyone!
>I am new to the list. Great information here, please bear with me, I
>have a general systems restoration/upgrade question - please excuse the
>length. I have had overseas duty for the last 4 years and my
>restoration project was put on hold. Now that I am back and in a
>different area of the country there are not as many resources as I found
>out west.
>I have put a lot of hard work, sweat and cash into my truck and my goal
>is to have it when I die.
>
>Background Info: I have a 1969 Ford 4WD Pick-up, It has a 1967 - 352
>V8, newly rebuilt (1992). It has a newly rebuilt transmission.
> Goal: I want to have this truck in workable 4WD operation for the
>rest of my driving days. I love the look and operation of the old
>Fseries and want to really push this truck to its potential in the 90's.
>
>Two Immediate Problems:
>Problem #1: The steering is shot!!! The steering was not good when I
>bought the truck in '89, but after more than a few out back camping
>trips, the steering will not pass inspection in Maryland. No suprise.
>I have looked around in every Balt-Wash area in auto parts recycling
>yards and talked to various shops - no direct or indirect steering boxes
>that I can use. I have found a few early Broncos with the same set-ups
>but the steering boxes have been shot also.
>
>Question #1: I would love to put in a system with heavy duty power
>steering. Is this reasonable?, I need something that is heavy duty,
>reasonably serviceable (I do a lot of off road driving and if I bust
>something up, I would like stock items that I can get repairs done if
>necessary) What do you think it will cost? Cost is not really an
>issue, but it will cause delays on getting it back on the road. This is
>a long term project.

Any steering system up to 79 should work with it. Hard to say what
the cost is as I've never looked into this item.

>
>Problem #2: When I was doing a good amount of four wheeling out in
>Utah, I had serious doubts about my braking system.
>When I used my brakes frequently going down a very steep grade (which
>are all over the state of Utah - highways or off road), they would heat....

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