Extreme 4X4 hunting wheeler insight requested.

Well-Known Member

I could use a new project but honestly I lack experience wheeling in these tight woods. Please school me. I've been to Browns Camp with my dirt bike and my current/running 4x4s are a 2000 S10 and 1970 K5, neither one needs any more branch marks.

As a kid my old man was a trailboss for a 4x4 club but he sold that rig and built a series of sandrails so my experience is hare and hound desert running and for many years EVERY weekend at Glamis in sandrails and dirtbikes. Thankfully I've inherited my dads and granddads fabrication skills.

I want something good looking, light and torquey. Wheeltravel and a low center of gravity are positives but I'd also like to keep it cheap. I have a couple of 4x4s sitting in the blackberry patch, an 85 rustbucket K5 and a 83 slow-rollover Toy longbed. Since moving here the DEQ boundry has moved outside of me, BASTARDS, but I've found a 72 Chevy Luv on craigslist which would solve the problem of running it with any drivetrain I want.

The Toy has the weak 21 spline tranny that's not strong enough for the 350. The Toys 22R ran great but it's low on power. Honestly I'm not sure the iron 350 and SM465, 205 T-Case is what I want to run either. Might rum either for a while cause they are bulletproof and free but way too heavy or underpowered IMO, could be wrong. Besides, my questions here are more about running gear than motors.

Option 1. Mount the Luv cab on the 85 Blazer frame, cut, weld and bondo the bed to fit and call it a day. The K5 axles are 10 inches wider, suppose I could find some positive offset wheels for the street to avoid tickets.

Option 2. Bob the rear of the longbed Toy frame at the leaf spring mounts, cut and weld the Luv bed. The bobbed longbed still leaves me room for the dirtbike. Run the Toy axles and either the Toy or Chev motor/trans/tc for now and keep my eye out for a late model aluminum v6/tranny/tc. I've never figured out why Chevy hasn't built a V6 or V4 OHV LS torquemonster motor. I have a LS1/T56 but it's going in the 240Z this summer.

Or 3, for some reason my favorite. Do the same as #2 but use the bulletproof K5 axles.

While I'm at it, what do you think about using a front axle at the rear? Useful or overkill? I happen to have a hydraulic rear wheel steering setup from a GVR4 sitting in the shop.

I'm spitballing here, experienced opinions welcome.

Edited to add: I'll be shooting a bolt action 260, a 300WSM or a BAR -06.

Member

I would take the Toyota frame and drop the Luv body on it and run it. Unless you have a set of 1 ton axles the K5 axles wont take a big tire for long. The Toy axles can be built to take 40" tires and last. Run the Toy engine for awhile till you can drop a 350 in. Run it with a Th350 to a 23 spline Toy transfer case. I am in the process of looking for a K5 myself.

Well-Known Member

I had no idea the Toyota axles had more potential. That makes it an easy body swap. Thanks all.

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They are a great base to build off of, but stock they should suit you just fine with the stock Toy motor. Regardless for a wheeling/hunting rig you don't really need all that much power. I'd look more into doing dual transfer cases for really good low range when needed.

Gold SupporterGold Supporter

I got on a toyota 4X4 forum for the T100 i had. The were talking about putting a 6bt cummins in them.
They were saying a guy would have to seriously beef up the suspension,blah blah blah.
They weren't even thinking about how the torque from the 6bt would twist the toy drive train like a pretzel.
All I know is from others who have broke stuff,but I do understand you start at the axles. Cause if you put big power in and don't,you will break stuff WAY out were there ain't cell service.
Same with kids and drag racing

Well-Known Member

I'm trying to find the balance of power, weight, strength and costs, like always. I am biased towards the basics, low overall weight, low center of gravity and good suspension. The 22R will work for a while but I'll probably just keep my eye out for a totaled late model Chev, Ford or Tacoma 4x4 and get the entire drivetrain for a couple grand.

Well-Known Member

I'm trying to find the balance of power, weight, strength and costs, like always. I am biased towards the basics, low overall weight, low center of gravity and good suspension. The 22R will work for a while but I'll probably just keep my eye out for a totaled late model Chev, Ford or Tacoma 4x4 and get the entire drivetrain for a couple grand.

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My point with keeping the Toy axles is they aren't a giant upgrade over what you have. It's always cheaper to run what you've got, keep it in good working order and a short trip to the junk yard can net you enough spares to get you out of any sticky situations you may run into. If the Blazer had a 60 or a 14 bolt you may have something, but 44's aren't a giant leap up from the stock Toy's, especially with the stock motor.

Well-Known Member

Hi, I don,t know much about 4x4 stuff, but there are groups on Facebook that sell-trade lots of 4x4 parts for specific rigs. I am on the old Ford buy,swap,sell group and there are lots of cheap parts on these pages. Hope that helps.

Well-Known Member

I have a turbo 4G63 and a 4cyl VW TDI that could go into the 240Z with a custom bell. I seem to collect neat motors.

The LS1 could go into the Toy with an inexpensive Chev Tr/TC. I'd have to watch my right foot but I'm good at that, most of the time. Too bad that LS1 is almost perfect for both applications.

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I also have a weird collection of parts, so I completely understand. One of the coolest items in my hoard is a complete Rolls-Royce Meteor engine.

For your application, I think a 4BTA would be pretty much ideal. I don't know how long the little VW TDI would remain together. The 4G63T wouldn't be too bad either. However, I think a LS-series (even the 5.3L one) coupled to a NV4500 and a NP203/205 doubler would be ideal for your build.

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