Ways to Outsmart the Sun

Your love affair with the sun can end rather abruptly. One day you look in the mirror and — when did this happen? — see wrinkling and brown spots, or worse, a suspicious-looking mole. Still, doctors agree that it's never too late to start protecting your skin. Coming up: how to choose sunscreens for your skin type and apply them so they deliver on their promises. And dermatologists weigh in on four sunscreen controversies. Their overriding message: Other than avoiding the sun, bi-hourly sunscreen application is still the safest way to steer clear of harmful UV rays.

Pick Your Sun Protection

Find a sunscreen formula that fits your life and lifestyle," suggests Sandra Read, M.D., clinical instructor of dermatology at the Georgetown University School of Medicine in Washington, D.C. "If it's too heavy, sticky, or expensive, you're not going to wear it."

Scan the label for "active ingredients." This will tell you which ones are actually doing the protecting. Good choices include the highly effective sunblocks titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and the chemical sunscreen avobenzone (a.k.a. Parsol 1789).

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Look for "broad-spectrum" on the bottle, too (sometimes written as "complete" or "total protection"). That way, you'll know you're guarded against UVB and UVA rays. Here's why this matters: Sunlight emits up to 95 percent UVA (the rays that penetrate deeply into skin, causing wrinkles, spots, and skin cancer) and around 5 percent UVB (the more energetic rays that cause sunburn and can also contribute to skin cancer). "You may still be exposed to massive doses of UVA if your sunscreen's not broad-spectrum," says James M. Spencer, M.D., associate professor of clinical dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City.

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Go a little higher on the SPF. "Sun protection factor" is a lab measure of the time it takes skin to sunburn when you shine UVB light on it. With an SPF of 15, it should theoretically take your skin 15 times longer. But since most people apply less than half the amount of sunscreen used in lab tests, they get only about half the protection. That's why most dermatologists suggest using an SPF 30.

Don't be lulled into a false sense of security by those really high SPFs. "They don't offer that much more protection," says Ava Shamban, M.D., a dermatologist in Santa Monica, CA. An SPF of 30 absorbs about 96 percent of UVB rays, but a 45 is only about one percentage point better. Still, you should use them if you have very fair skin or have already had skin cancer. "Your sunscreen will be stickier, and you may get slightly better protection," Dr. Shamban says. Try: Coppertone NutraShield SPF 70 ($10.49, drugstores) and Cetaphil UVA/UVB Defense SPF 50 ($14, drugstores).

Choose UVA protection with staying power. Titanium and zinc block out both UVA and UVB rays, whereas chemical sunscreens filter primarily UVB and only some UVA — with one significant exception: Avobenzone deflects a wider range of UVA rays, including the deepest-penetrating and most damaging kind. Ironically, it degrades in sunlight. To extend avobenzone's staying power, look for photostabilized versions, such as Helioplex (a blend of avobenzone and oxybenzone, found with other active sunscreen ingredients in Neutrogena products), or an ingredient like Mexoryl (a.k.a. ecamsule, a sunscreen chemical exclusive to L'Oréal and its brands). Try Kiehl's UV Protective Suncare Sunscreen Cream SPF 20 with Mexoryl ($32.50, kiehls.com). More and more companies now offer stabilized UVA protection. Try: Clinique SPF 25 Body Spray ($20, department stores) or Banana Boat Ultra Defense Faces SPF 30 ($9.49, drugstores).

Watch for ratings for UVA; they may appear on sunscreen packaging as soon as this summer. Current labels don't tell you how effective the ingredients are against UVA. But the FDA is currently considering regulations for sunscreens based on rules proposed in 2007. These will probably include a UVA star-rating system designating sunscreen protection as low, medium, high, and highest, with one to four stars.

Count the pluses — for now. Several sunscreens use the Japanese UVA rating on products sold in the U.S. This system designates a +, ++, or +++ to indicate lowest to highest UVA protection. Try Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Sun Defense for Face SPF 50 Sunscreen PA+++ ($30, department stores).

For sensitive skin, look for something hypoallergenic and fragrance-free. The minerals titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (physical sunblocks that sit on top of skin instead of being absorbed into it) are less sensitizing and deflect both UVA and UVB rays. "As a general rule, zinc is lighter under makeup, so it's better for everyday wear, and titanium has stronger photo protection for beach days," says Zoe Draelos, M.D., a dermatologist in High Point, NC. However, they are strongest when paired up. Two to try: Dermalogica Ultra Sensitive Faceblock SPF 25 ($29, dermalogica.com) with titanium dioxide and Neutrogena Sensitive Skin Sunblock Lotion SPF 60 ($10, drugstores) with both titanium and zinc.

If you're acne-prone, your skin may be highly reactive to sunscreens. "Some physical sunblocks have textures that can be too heavy or sticky," says Neil Sadick, M.D., clinical professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College in New York City. Instead, look for a light, oil-free lotion, such as Hawaiian Tropic Oil Free Sensitive Skin Sunscreen SPF 50 ($8.89, drugstores), with chemical sunscreens avobenzone and oxybenzone.

If you've got dry skin, choose a lotion or cream with added hydrating ingredients like glycerin and aloe. You may want to avoid sprays and gels laden with alcohol; you'll probably feel their drying effects with repeated use, says Dr. Sadick.

Swimmers and outdoor-sports enthusiasts require a "water-resistant" or "very water-resistant" sunscreen, meaning it binds to wet skin for up to 40 minutes or 80 minutes, respectively, often due to stickier silicones, says Ava Shamban, M.D., a dermatologist in Santa Monica, CA. These formulas will also stay put on sweaty skin, making them good for heavy exercisers. Try Skin Effects by Dr. Jeffrey Dover Sun Effects SPF 45 Continuous Spray ($13, CVS).

1. Plan ahead. Apply sunscreen at least 15 or, ideally, 30 minutes before you head outdoors, so your skin has a chance to absorb the protective ingredients. Also, slather it on as evenly as possible before getting dressed for complete coverage.

2. Don't skimp. An ounce (a shot-glass-full) of sunscreen may feel like a lot of goo, but this is the recommendation for full-body coverage from the American Academy of Dermatology, says Robert A. Weiss, M.D., associate professor of dermatology at Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine. Be extra generous when rubbing it into more exposed areas like the face, shoulders, chest, and the tops of your feet. "The biggest mistake people make is not putting enough on their faces," says Ava Shamban, M.D., a dermatologist in Santa Monica, CA, who advises devoting at least a teaspoon of that ounce to your face, ears, and neck.

3. Be overzealous with sprays, wipes, and powders. "An even sheen" is what dermatologists recommend you give skin with the new, hugely popular spray-on sunscreens and mists. We like Aveeno Continuous Protection Sunblock Spray SPF 50 ($11, drugstores), which allows you to aim from any angle, so you can even douse your own back (at last!). Wipes are another speedy option. "They work really well," says Dr. Weiss. "One study showed that when acne patients used them to apply antibiotics, they got really thorough, even coverage." Try Shady Day Daily Sun Protection Wipes SPF 30 ($14, Ulta). Also new: powders loaded with mineral protection you simply brush on skin. "These are great for protecting the face or for spot-covering areas like the shoulders and chest," says Neil Sadick, M.D., clinical professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College in New York City. You'll get more complete, broad-spectrum protection if you layer the mineral powder over a sunscreen lotion or spray. Try: Bare Escentuals BareMinerals SPF 30 Natural Sunscreen ($28, Sephora).

4. Keep track of your time outside. Put down your book or volleyball to reapply sunscreen every two hours, or after every significant sporting activity or water submersion, says Dr. Sadick. Reapplication is so vital to staying protected that the FDA may soon require sunscreen manufacturers to state this even more noticeably on their labels.

The reality: Some researchers blame sunscreens for encouraging the notion that it's OK to stay in the sun for prolonged periods, provided you're slathered in SPF. They also point to steadily rising skin-cancer rates as proof of sunscreen's relatively poor performance. But dermatologists say it's people's behavior, not their sun protection, that's behind those alarming statistics. "Sunscreens can prevent skin cancer, but they need to be part of an overall protection program," says David J. Leffell, M.D., professor of dermatology and surgery at the Yale School of Medicine. "You also need to stay out of the sun from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., wear protective clothing, and seek shade whenever possible."

The headline: Dangerous nanoparticles may be lurking in your sun protection.

The reality: In order to turn the normally opaque natural sunscreen ingredients titanium dioxide and zinc oxide into sheer coverage for your skin, they are sometimes engineered into tiny, nano-size particles. These are so minuscule that some scientists fear they can penetrate skin, get into the bloodstream, and potentially damage your organs. As spooky as this sounds, the concerns remain theoretical. "It's never been proven that they do any actual harm to your body," says James M. Spencer, M.D., associate professor of clinical dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City. Still, some dermatologists advise caution. "Why risk it?" says Adnan Nasir, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. "You don't actually need them to get adequate protection." How best to avoid them: "Stick to well-known sunscreen brands, which generally don't contain them," says Zoe Draelos, M.D., a dermatologist in High Point, NC.

The headline: You shouldn't wear sunscreen because it filters out good-for-you vitamin D.

The reality: This suggestion makes dermatologists absolutely crazy; many believe it's a notion perpetuated primarily by the indoor-tanning industry, which stands to profit from people using tanning machines to boost their vitamin D. Here are the facts: Sunscreens can lower vitamin D production, but you can easily make up for this loss with food sources (salmon, fortified milk, etc.), vitamins, or even the most trivial amounts of sunlight, according to dermatologists. "It's still much safer to get your vitamin D from a pill than to stay in the sun without protection," says Dr. Leffell. How much D do you need to reap its benefits? Many experts think current vitamin D recommendations are set too low, so definitely check with your doctor for dosing advice.

The headline: Antioxidants make better sun protection.

The reality: Antioxidants such as green tea and dark-red fruits may be able to mitigate only a little of the damage that sunscreens miss. For example, green tea offers some UV protection, but studies have mostly looked at 100 percent green tea applied topically, not how well it works incorporated into a cream. The bottom line: "Antioxidants make great supplements to sunscreen," says Dr. Draelos. "But until the FDA puts them on the list of sunscreen actives, don't expect them to replace broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreens."