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Hey guys been a member on here for a while but haven't been very active. Anyway for a little background, I live in Barbados in the Caribbean which is a pretty small island. Despite the obvious benefits of living on a tropical island like all year good weather and lovely beaches, our duties on vehicles here are crazy (over 200+%) and also there are serious restrictions on vehicle importation for instance nothing older than 4 years which automatically rules out any s30 Zs. However I have always wanted one of these cars so I was left with the only legal option of importing a shell or basic chassis and building a car from scratch. I spent some time scouring the net for just that and finally found a 280z in pretty good condition and the owner was willing to strip it to the point I wanted. He had done a basic restoration a few years back to the point of primer but it was too rough a job for my purpose so I decided a full strip down from the ground up was in order and at the same time I would modify to suit.
One of the issues I faced was that there were no other driving Zs on the road and just a couple S30 shells lying around and since the body came missing most parts I would have to educate myself thoroughly on the workings of the car. Also because of the unreliable work ethic of many persons available I decided that for the fun and general experience of it I would undertake the restoration and modification almost exclusively along with a good friend. This naturally required somewhere to work and the tools to get the job done, so my first order, even before I had the car was to start getting the tools I didn't already have.
It's been an on and off 3 year project so far and still not done.
The car in it's original state when I first got it. Looked decent from far but far from great...
Of course after stripping some rust issues were found but all in all was pretty good.
After the rust areas were dealt with the next plan was to convert the car from LHD to RHD since that is the side of the road we drive on here. Finding donor parts prooved to be a bit of an issue so we eventually decided that the only real way was to fabricate everything from scratch. So we made up a couple templates and pulled out our spot weld remover bit and got to work.
The next step was getting everything stripped down to metal and epoxy coated. Best way for this would be a rotisserie so that was our next project, building one.
Then the fun could begin...
After hearing alot of horror stories about 'professional' sandblasting services I decided to blast the car myself with a small blaster from eastwood and some glass.
It was NOT fun. But the results were rewarding.

Hi, I'm looking for a used msa victory or retro spec downforce spoiler for my 280z. Fiberglass is acceptable. Looking at all tall spoilers but not the whale tail style.
If you have one you are interested in letting go please PM me or comment below.
Thank you

Complete Velo Rossa Spyder body kit for sale
Edit: New information, pictures, write-up attached. See below.
I bought the kit, plus extras from John Washington at Reaction Research and have never bonded them. The parts have been just sitting on my donor car.
The kit includes:
One-piece front bonnet
Bonnet hinge reinforcing ring
Bonnet hinge bracket
Bonnet hinge pins
Cheek (side) panels
Bond-on door skins
Bond-on rear clip (aka "tub")
Trunk lid with pre-bonded inner reinforcing
Extras:
Clear headlight covers
Simpson style dash
You can get more info on the kit on John's website here.
I have information and more pictures on my personal website.
There is a community of builders/owners on HybridZ and have a long running thread here.
I am located in SE Washington State and am willing to deliver the kit within a few hundred miles of my place. I'm not really wanting to ship it, but I will for the right offer.
If you were to purchase all of this new, it would cost you around $6,500 +tax and shipping.
I'm looking for $4,500 for all. I'm pretty firm on that price.
EDIT: I've had several folks ask about the donor car in the pictures. It is available for an additional cost (less engine and transmission). I might include engine and transmission for the right offer. I've attached a .PDF write-up with more information on the complete project. Please contact me if you're interested in more details.
Thanks for looking,
Marc
[email protected]
Significant Items to complete the Velo Rossa.pdf

I have for sale front fiberglass fenders and matching rear flares that I pulled off my parts car. The front fenders have flares molded in, and the headlight buckets were molded in too and can be included if you want them as well. Local pickup would be preferred as shipping could get pricey on these all together. I looking for around $500 given the value of the front fenders alone, but feel free to make an offer. I am located near Warren Ohio.

Hi!
My car came with a body kit that's not half bad, but the kit has got to have the ugliest muffler-hole (what's a proper name for this?) ever made (and muffler tip too but that i know how to fix)...
I need suggestions on how i can fix this both on a "what would look good" level, but also on a "how to fabricate it" (basic ideas, not detailed instructions".
I'm thinking is a proper straight muffler tip, not some ugly limp-d*** look for starters, but i'm stuck for the bumper.
I thought maybe a black plastic cover with a smaller half circle hugging the muffler tip, but it'd be way too big an insert, i think it would look funny....
Ideas, anyone? Picts if you've seen people doing nice things, if you have them..
Thanks!!!
Seb

So i've got a 71 z with a 302 c4 combo in it and figured since it wasn't pure anymore i might as well play with the sheet metal too to accommodate some larger wheels/tires eventually probably a 17x9ish. I purchased these zg flares to just bolt on and then cut the fender to allow the bigger rubber http://www.zgfenderflares.com/ and started thinking about trying to fiberglass the zg flares to the body to create a small widebody similar to this car http://datsunfreak.deviantart.com/art/600hp-Silver-240Z-2-50121778 because it looks like the majority of the fender was left alone and only the flare area was fiberglassed.. I was hoping someone could give me an idea of what this might end up looking like or if something like that is even possible the way i described it ,thanks. Am also planning on running dual exhaust and was wondering if removal of the spare tire shell is necessary.

Bought these for my Z with 315 rear tires, but then sold it without ever installing them. They should fit any 1970-1978 and are the bond on type with plenty of lip to blend them into the body seamlessly. If I remember correctly, they are about 1" wider than the BAMF ZG bolt on flares (which are what I had). If you want to bring your Z by we can test fit them to see.
Don't remember the exact name for the style of these flares or how much I paid for them. If anyone can pinpoint it that might help me out some.
Looking for $300

Does anyone have good pictures of MSA Classic and/or Type 1 airdam? I've been wondering around the interwebz and searches but can't seem to come across good ones... Also it doesnt necessary have to be MSA ones, as long as the airdam can flow with the body on its own without side skirts
and still in production.
thanks.

$1125Complete and never mounted Japco Raceglass body kit for a Datsun 1600 or 2000 Roadster 311s. Includes left front fender, right front fender, left rear fender, right rear fender, hood, trunk lid and front air dam. Wide Body kit. Also includes original steel trunk lid. I was going to build a Datsun 2000 Roadster autocross car with 13B power. I sold the car, sold the 13B, now selling the fiberglass. This is lightweight fiberglass, not meant for street usage. As with any fiberglass part, some trimming and body work needed for perfect fit. No clue as to how to ship such a large package. I imagine it will take more weight in cardboard and packing materials than the parts weigh.
PM me if interested.

Hello everyone, I bought my Z in 2007 in New Mexico for 600 bucks with what appeared to be not much rust ( and it still is a fairly rust free car). It ran when I put a little fuel in the lines and I did a bit of work to drive it back to houston. Got it back to town and funds dried up after I couldn't get it to pass the state safety inspection. Fast forward to now and things and great I got most of the parts on the surface that I thought I would need.
Today the brakes were bled, the back were easy but when I got to the front the front brakes wouldn't bleed. The brakes now have pressure, they didn't have pressure till I bled the back brakes and this was one of the reasons why it didn't pass inspection on top of the wind shield wipers not working.
Any hints or tips I was thinking of running air through the lines to clear a possible blockage.
Tomorrow I am doing a radiator flush, and sunday I am doing the popular windshield wiper motor replacement with a acura integra motor.
Mondays plan is to start her up and get her to pass inspection( then it will be body work and interior )
The brakes were also stuck when I tried to move the car, a little work with a rubber hammer soon had them free, pictures will be up as soon as I can find the folder I put them in.
Please people enjoy the thread as I refresh my 240z