Hit Snooze!

By Troy Johnson

Published: 2011.12.15 10:59 AM

Hash House is currently tending to the hole in its bow, which is the size of an upside-down pineapple hotcake. Denver transplant Snooze has landed in Hillcrest with a farmers market mix-and-match model. Studded with caramelized pineapple and bathed in cinnamon butter, that upside-downer will woo every flapjack jockey with operable taste buds. Order it in a “flight”—a choose-your-own-adventure trio (skip the so-so red velvet). For savory, their corned beef hash with diced poblanos is delicious shiksa-bait and the chilaquiles benedict is a killer, hollandaisical riff on border town breakfast nachos. The room itself? A Sistine Breakfast Chapel. Forty-foot ceilings, floor-to-rafter windows, and two gigantic skylights—plus playful (not obnoxious) mid-century diner design—make the Hash-like weekend queue worth the wait.

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