Okay - I'm a few days behind on my Christmas lights, but I couldn't resist. No comments re: how dirty the car is! Decided to take the cue in the detailing forum regarding painting the inside of the wheels black. The factory paint was about gone and they were starting to pit and oxidize so I figured "what the heck".

Okay - I'm a few days behind on my Christmas lights, but I couldn't resist. No comments re: how dirty the car is! Decided to take the cue in the detailing forum regarding painting the inside of the wheels black. The factory paint was about gone and they were starting to pit and oxidize so I figured "what the heck".

I used Rust-Oleum "high performance" spray paint (whatever that means.) I cleaned the surfaces with lacquer thinner and sanded the oxidized surfaces, then re-cleaned with thinner before painting. I did end up with some "voids" for lack of a better term. It almost looked like solvents in the paint or some surface contamination created spots where the paint bubbled away from the surface. Picture spraying water on drops of vegetable oil - the oil drops keep the water from collecting there. A friend who runs a commercial paint shop has recommended an etching primer and states that oxidization can start very quickly after you've cleaned with an acid, etc.

Oh, and the rotors were an afterthought since I'd painted them gray to get rid of the rust on them previously - saw other pics of wheels that members had done and realized that going as black as possible would help the chrome and the rotors stand out.

I chuckled because others have posted that masking the rotors is pointless - you just take the car for a drive and burn the paint off. Well, when I did the rears I'd had a few barley-pops so taking it down the road was a no-go. I tried to cycle the brakes as much as I could up and down the driveway between my workshop and the garage. Let's just say that Saturday morning's departure was a little bit interesting because, me being the dumbass that I am, set the parking brake Friday night.

Paint makes a pretty good adhesive when it's between your pads and rotors!

Oh, and the rotors were an afterthought since I'd painted them gray to get rid of the rust on them previously - saw other pics of wheels that members had done and realized that going as black as possible would help the chrome and the rotors stand out.

I chuckled because others have posted that masking the rotors is pointless - you just take the car for a drive and burn the paint off. Well, when I did the rears I'd had a few barley-pops so taking it down the road was a no-go. I tried to cycle the brakes as much as I could up and down the driveway between my workshop and the garage. Let's just say that Saturday morning's departure was a little bit interesting because, me being the dumbass that I am, set the parking brake Friday night.

Paint makes a pretty good adhesive when it's between your pads and rotors!

Well they both look great! I want to paint over my chrome rims and will have to use the self-etching primer or the adhesion promoter (from what I've read up on) but may not because I would hate to mess up my only set of rims, but I will most likely paint behind the rim in the summer time.

As far as my rotors, when I re-painted my calipers I used trash bags to mask off the rotors and fender wells, and ended up with a little paint on each rotor that got through a small part of the caliper. It's slowly burning off but if paint can stay on good, I may paint my rotors too.

Washed, clayed, and started the polishing last night. Plan is to finish polishing, waxing, and sealing the paint before Thursday because it's supposed to rain all week. Have a road trip in a few weeks so I wanted the paint all prepped for spring/summer before we take off.

Anybody know how muchtrouble it would be to convert our 2007 Solstice into a turbo ? ive seen turbo parts advertised on the web. also I want to get a power window kit to convert standard crank windows to power... have looked into kits from different sellers but they wont fit soltisce.

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