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Thursday, October 15, 2009

Is This Anything?

So, as I mentioned earlier this week, that wench Doris had the nerve to lose the front pattern piece for the "bonus" bolero project in VoNBBS. Well, some of you believed that I would be able to draft the missing pattern piece myself. And while I'm dubious of the confidence you have in my patternmaking skills, I just can't resist a dare.So here's the muslin of what I came up with, made out of old curtains! Not bad, eh? What do you think? The only thing I'm really having trouble figuring out is the length of the lapels, and that's why the lapels are two different lengths in the muslin. In these two illustrations below, they vary quite a bit. The one on the left is from the pattern envelope, and the one on the right is from VoNBBS. See where they end in respect to the bustline?

I toyed around a bit with the length on my muslin, as you can see in the picture above. (The left lapel is shorter than the right.) Which do you think is better? Also, remember that the seam allowances will make everything 5/8" shorter.

But, nit picking aside, I'm pleased as punch with myself that I might have figured this out. Especially since I already had planned a skirt to go with this version of the bolero. Vogue 8603, view A, which is a knock-off of a Nanette Lepore piece. It has ruching on the hips and a gathered ruffle in the back. Cute, right?

The whole ensemble will be made in a wool gabardine in a color I've been describing as "plum," but that could be inaccurate.

32 comments:

The left lapel - the shorter version - is definitely more to my taste! Well done on your drafting; it looks like it will work out great. And I love that Vogue skirt pattern. The whole ensemble will be fab.

Congrats on your drafting. You should pick whichever length looks best on you. I note both illustrations show the lapel hitting just below the sleeve length, so that could be a guide. Also, is there a facing piece? If so that might give you a length.

Secondly, the skirt -- ruching? not on these hips, baby! I've looked at that pattern, and while it's pretty in the abstract, in person I fear it would draw attention to all the wrong elements of my figure. I look forward to seeing it on a real person, though.

Together -- I think these cropped jackets look great with skirts that are trim and show off the waist, so they should be a nice match.

Based on the two Vogue illustrations rather than the muslin, I prefer the slightly longer/ Doris one, which I find more elegant. To me, there's too much of a differential between lengths front and back on the VoNBBS picture, and the way it starts just under the bust line tends to focus the eye on that area (making Vogue lady's bust look much bigger than in the longer version, although it might also be because her bolero is white on a black dress which makes it stand out more). Looking at the muslin, I'd also go for the longer one (bearing in mind it'll be the length of the shorter one by the time seam allowances kick in).

I like the one on the left!! And I agree....the thought of ruching over the hip? eeek!

did you think of printing out the illo in the book and scaling it to your other pattern sizes? I have done that to replace pattern pieces and it's actually worked out fine. And you'd even have your notches and dots correct.

You are amazing that you were able to draft the missing piece. I think you're right that the lapel on the left is kickier, more you, more fun. This jacket is going to be so darling. I can't wait to see the final version on you. I don't know how you have time to do all the sewing you do and work full time. We need to learn your secrets of time management.

I am only 5'3" so I would choose the longer one to lengthen my torso...I think that the shorter one would make me looked chopped...but that's if it were on me. I agree with the comment that a good guide would be to follow the length of the sleeve and keep them the same. I do like the curtains you have used, very pretty! I once made a jumper (1980's) out of a floral bedsheet and someone said to me, "I have sheets just like that" and I replied, "I use to!".I think plum will be a lovely Autmun color for you :)

I'm also in the shorter lapel camp. I think the main difference between the two illustrations is the length of the back in relation to the front, not the length of the lapel in relation to the front edge (if that makes sense).

Also, I really like the skirt you've chosen. Personally, when I wear rushing, it is usually in the waist area, and it makes my waist look smaller than it really is, so I'm not at all convinced that it would make your hips look bigger.

I think the longer lapel would end up looking better. I can't imagine many women would want the end of a jacket lapel to point to their bust, effectively accentuating it, if it's medium to large size. If you're relatively small busted then the shorter length could work. But my preference is the slighter longer look. I think it will look fabulous with the ruched skirt and I can't wait to see it finished.

The line of the shorter (on the left) version is lovely! And the skirt is luscious. Like others of your readers, I've been eyeing that pattern and wondering if ruching on the hips will be the best disguise ever for a less than svelte silhouette ... or if it will make an unsightly situation worse. I expect your outfit will be stunning.

Love the left lapel, but have question about the draft, did the CB seam end up on the bias? Don't know which fabric you're using, but if the front ens up on the straight grin, then the shawl collar won't roll properly and the front hem wil end up following biasline, and may unreasonably stretch to begin with.

I think the left lapel is the more accurate, because it looks like the bottom edge runs more parallel to the floor, which is what the two drawings look like they do. And it just looks crisper, somehow.And I like the front ruching on the skirt. But maybe that means you don't necessarily want a "crisp' front. Maybe softer would be better. I have to go. There's a hair over in that corner that needs to be split, pronto.

elizabethe, you are quite the poet!Gertie, you are quite the designer!I think you should make the one that you like best on you! Personally, I think it is difficult to make a decision based upon the way it looks on a dummy. I am long and don't think any dummy would be shaped like me! The long lapels would probably be short on my body!

Gertie, a friend of mine has a very similar skirt with ruched hip panels, and it does indeed make her hour glass figure even curvier - so good choice of pattern I think. Also, started reading your blog a week or so ago and am finding it most inspiring, and it might even prompt a bit of winter sewing! Cheers, emily

Bravo at your pattern drafting! :D Looks like you did a superb job at it--both lapel versions are looking fantastic. ;) Though like you, I'm leaning towards the shorter one; it just relates to the rest of the design better.

I really love that skirt pattern--it's so sassy! The entire thing made up in plum wool is going to be absolutely stunning--you are going to look fantastic Gertie! :)

The left one, no doubt. It's got a lot more energy in the lines than the right one, I think.The skirt makes me think of Burdastyle's Kasia (http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/kasia), a free pattern that looks great on all different shapes. Loads of ruching on the hips there. And hips make figures more hourglass-shaped, who doesn't want that :-)?Oh, btw, congratulations on becoming a Burdastyle blogger, I didn't know that you are there, I am (I'm Ichigogirl there), this blog inspired me to take up sewing vintage (thank you!) so I do look forward to your blogposts there as well!