Sorn Fine Southern Cuisine

Sorn is the latest to try and remedy Bangkok’s insatiable hunger for southern Thai cuisine—and it’s not to be missed.

This spot sees Supaksorn Jongsiri, the owner of Baan Ice, go back to his roots once more in a refined and elegant setting. Sourcing ingredients fresh daily from across 14 southern provinces, his approach to cooking focuses on traditional techniques, from charcoal and clay pot cooking, to pressing and squeezing fresh coconut juice.

The menu offers five courses (B2,700) which take on the customary Thai sharing style; the yellow curry with young mangosteen and gu fish is fresh and fragrant, whilst the morning glory with coconut rice and baby shrimps is a must-try.

Limited to just over 20 seats, reservations are advisable.

The buzz: There are two types of Bangkokians. Those who have dined at Sorn, the new 20-seat southern Thai restaurant from Baan Ice founder Supaksorn Jongsiri, and those who haven't. Supaksorn's five-course sharing menus are causing a hi-so sensation thanks to bold flavors, traditional techniques—fermentation, coconut milk squeezed on-site daily—and a decadent, exclusive dining room.

The vibe: The sleek interiors reference Thailand’s southern rainforests, with arched-metal works reflective of slender palm blades adorning the windows, and wood accents, earthy tones and lush green plants permeating throughout the various art deco-style dining rooms. The house itself is as old as 90 years and retains much of its original structure, making the space feel more akin to a home than a restaurant.

The food: The menu offers five courses (B2,700) which take on the customary Thai sharing style; the yellow curry with young mangosteen and gu fish is fresh and fragrant, while the morning glory with coconut rice and baby shrimps is a must-try. The minute attention to detail in each dish is apparent, with the process seeming closer to a construction project than simple cookery—the fish is lightly charcoal-grilled for a touch of smoky flavor, and the soup is stewed for hours with specially selected beef-bones, before being combined with grilled vegetables. Does it really need to be this fussy? Perhaps not, but it is this complexity that results in dishes that truly nourish the soul.

The drink: As recommended by the chef, a sweet and subtle white wine—such as the Albert Bichot, Chablis Village Dom, Long-Depaquit 2015 (B2,100)—is the best accompaniment to the pungent southern flavors, but a selection of red is on offer, too, if you’re one for combining intense tastes.Right now, there are only full bottles, although they have plans to offer wine by the glass in the future.

Why we’d come back: It’s clear that the cuisine here is driven by passionate chefs, whose carefully crafted menu has a unique ability to transport you back to nostalgic tastes of their childhood—little wonder seats are hard to come by. Kankanok Wichiantanon