The days of stacked Chinese leftover cartons in the back of the fridge may be waning. As the adult children of Asian restaurant owners begin to open their own spots, they are bringing an exciting new focus on quality over mere quantity.

This ethos is on display at Oakland's Lin Jia Asian Kitchen, where owner Marcia Lam's mother buzzes around town to source produce from feel-good farmers markets and Berkeley Bowl.

Lin Jia's snow flower beef ($18) is made from Marin Sun Farm grass-fed beef rib. The chicken dishes start with Mary's free-range poultry. The portions are ample and I even took home some leftovers, but I didn't leave feeling supersized. The Lakeshore Avenue restaurant, although not formal, is a bit more modern than typical Chinese restaurants. Formerly a teahouse also owned by the Lam family, the space was transformed in November into a polished yet casual open dining room suitable for many occasions.

Lin Jia is not overly decorated, but an Asian theme emerges in artfully arranged, colorful travel photos taken by Lam and friends.

The menu is a journey

The mostly Chinese menu reflects the journey of the owner's Chinese-Vietnamese family from Vietnam to Oakland via Hong Kong, but other Asian fare makes an appearance, too. Family recipes such as imperial glass noodles ($8) that the menu says "mom makes for holidays and festivals" nestle beside vacation-inspired dishes such as a Thai papaya salad ($8).

The menu is a blend of healthful and indulgent dishes. On my visit, I surprised myself by opting for the indulgent and ordering more than my fair share of fried fare.

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First came the shrimp rolls ($8), definitely worth the treat. These long, skinny, piping-hot rolls were stuffed with shrimp, cream cheese and cilantro before taking a swim in the fryer. I had not come across anything exactly like these half-dozen gems before, and my taste buds were grateful for the flavorful introduction.

A lovely dumpling soup ($9) arrived next. This was one of several dishes that Lam says represent what she grew up eating at home. This beauty is described in the menu as "auntie's version of wonton soup but with hearty additions."

Auntie apparently knows a thing or two about making a tasty translucent broth. Throwing in some baby bok choy, green onions, artfully cut carrots, shiitake mushrooms and shrimp made this soup a delight.

Our server reported that the spicy canton noodles ($8, $11 with protein) are popular with families, and mine was no exception. A favorite dish made by Lam's dad, these slippery, tubular rice noodles were mixed with bean sprouts, crisp broccoli, onion and an XO sauce. On our visit, the dish skewed a touch greasy, but the noodles, vegetables and beef were cooked just right.

Unfortunately, the highly popular KFC ($14) -- Korean fried chicken -- didn't live up to its hype. We found the free-range chicken surprisingly rubbery, but liked the spicy sauce made from chile, garlic and ginger. Meanwhile, my kids devoured the general's chicken ($11), which I found bland.

A family affair

It's a family affair in the fully open kitchen. Lam's dad, Hoa "Tom" Lam, serves as one of the restaurant's chefs. Lam's aunt also helps in the kitchen. The duo -- plus Lam's mother, who was home watching the owner's daughter -- offer years of self-taught experience, including 15 years operating Hayward's Hong Kong Seafood Restaurant.

Last spring, they also hired chef Cai Zhang, who Lam says worked for years at a famous Sichuan restaurant in Beijing before coming to America. He imported impressive knife skills, evident in the precisely cut vegetables and sculpted garnishes. The elegant presentation of every dish was a wonderful surprise.

On my visit, we were greeted warmly and served at a leisurely pace. All in all, Lin Jia's seasonal menu was worth exploring. I'll definitely swing by there again the next time I'm in the neighborhood.

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Ratings

Restaurants are rated on a scale of one to four, with four representing a truly extraordinary experience for that type of restaurant.

Price code

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