So I haven't done much with these machines in over 3 years because I been too busy making cocktail tables. Well I had some inspiration and an idea. I should be done later tonight (tomorrow for you peeps since I live in the past) Here are the cut parts. Can you guess what it is?

You are crazy, and correct! Up until today the main cab has been sitting on a Dora the Explorer table. I recently moved it to my sons room, but he was against the table so I decided to make a custom stand for him that would still look like a real Neo-Geo. This is what I came up with:I here's the stand itself. I added the coin door so that I could get access inside the cab and fill it with weights if necessary. Also my son can use it as a piggy bank, or a lock box to hide things from his sister.More Pictures:It's a little small to play standing up, even smaller than the real Neo Geo 2-13!But he likes to sit down and play anyways!

You are crazy, and correct! Up until today the main cab has been sitting on a Dora the Explorer table. I recently moved it to my sons room, but he was against the table so I decided to make a custom stand for him that would still look like a real Neo-Geo. This is what I came up with:

How stable is it? It looks as if you just put the bartop on pedestal, or did you actually fix the two together?

It's very stable! The base and the bartop are actually screwed together. Being built with 3/4 inch combicore and with the coindoor the thing weighs what feels like 50 pounds. I also flared the thing out a few inches in the front (see metal kick plate) just to add a bit more stability and to keep it from tipping forward, although it probably would have been stable even without it!

True! It would have been nice to build a 30" pedestal for the bartop which would allow me to stand up and play it, but after overlaying a line drawing of a 4-25 v2 cab (my favorite) I realized to make it look proportional I could only go with a 18" pedestal.

True! It would have been nice to build a 30" pedestal for the bartop which would allow me to stand up and play it, but after overlaying a line drawing of a 4-25 v2 cab (my favorite) I realized to make it look proportional I could only go with a 18" pedestal.

My Favorite!

I'm glad you did that. Others would have said "Screw it!" and would have done a 30" and ended up with something really odd looking. Rep for you.

i was wondering if u could provide the files of the sideart as well. i would like to rebuild one of these 4 my gameroom-i was hooked when i found this thread 2 month ago...(or did i miss a link somwhere in the thread?)

i was wondering if u could provide the files of the sideart as well. i would like to rebuild one of these 4 my gameroom-i was hooked when i found this thread 2 month ago...(or did i miss a link somwhere in the thread?)

The artwork died with one of my computers a couple years ago... Although, you should have no problem recreating using the links subalot posted earlier. Only one youll have a problem with is the "S" in the square before the SNK... For somereason it is not available anywhere.

Just brilliant !want to make a set my self however i'm missing a vital part how did you do the connection between the 2 consolesis there a wireing diagram ? in the video you say they are identical on the inside but i cant find any info on the net to link up 2 MVS boards or did you only link up the video, sound and buttons

Just brilliant !want to make a set my self however i'm missing a vital part how did you do the connection between the 2 consolesis there a wireing diagram ? in the video you say they are identical on the inside but i cant find any info on the net to link up 2 MVS boards or did you only link up the video, sound and buttons

GreetsThomas

They are only physically identical. The main (player 1) cab houses the MVS board and the Gonbes cga-VGA encoder. Threw Gonbes has dual VGA output so one went to the screen in the player 1cab, the other went to the player 2 cab via the 25 pin connector. The stereo audio and the joystick inputs were wired to the 25 pin connector as well.

On another note, you can actually link up MVS boards (well not the boards but the cartridges), there are 2 games that had what looked like headphone jacks on the cartridge. Riding hero and league bowling. League bowling would even allow you to daisy chain up to 4 cartridges for 8 player simultaneous play. Not real net to your build... Just a fun fact!

That was what i suspected I couldn't find any info on other linking than the cartridge linking also i thought there was to boards not just one but with only one board it makes it alot easier ! hoped you had done some serious hacking :-) Thanks for the answer ! now i just have to get the parts and im totaly using your cad files just love the form on the cabs

im printing it in what ever is needet for it to work ! we tryed 1:1 (printed the files as is) but they were only about an inch in total so either i dont know my way around cad or im using the wrong program or it is all about the scaling ! ??what size did you make the plans in or is it scale(less)

I built the 3d model in Rhino3D, and I used Mastercam to generate the g-codes for our router. Rhino 3D is pretty cheap, around $1,000, but the version of Mastercam Router/5-axis that we use cost around $20,000.

No worry about bothering me, I like answering questions re. the bartop neo geo.