I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU DO TO YOUR CAR FROM YOUR INSTALL; THIS IS AN AID FOR YOU TO PUT THESE GAUGES IN AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF YOU FEEL YOU CAN NOT TACKLE THIS LEAVE IT TO SOMEONE MORE EXPERIENCED. I HAVE BEEN WORKING ON CARS FOR MORE THAN 10 YEARS, BUT I WILL TELL YOU ANYONE CAN DO THIS INSTALL EVEN A BEGINNER DO YOUR RESEARCH AND FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE ATTEMPTING.

Installing these gauges does take some time so you might want to spread it out over a couple of days it is nice to take your time so the install goes smooth or do one gauge at a time.

EGT

First we will start out with the EGT gauge install. You will need the following items:

First off jack your car up high enough to get under the front of the car. Start off by taking off your plastic shield that protects the undercarriage of your motor. Once you get it off, you will you want to take the driver’s side piece of your exhaust manifold. First you will need to take off the heat shield that is wrapped around the manifold piece.

As you can see from the picture I wrapped my whole manifold in header wrap and sprayed with silicone heat paint. I did this for lower spread of engine bay temperatures but if you did this like me of course you will have to take the wrap off and re-wrap it when the probe install is complete. The driver’s side manifold is held by 3-14mm bolts by the engine block and 2-14mm to the rest of the manifold.
There are two gaskets on each side inspect them to see if there is large amounts of wear and tear so that they might be replaced. Now it is time to drill your hole, most people drill their hole on the circle flat piece of the manifold pipe.

Use eye protection, I started to my drill my hole using a little dab of cutting oil on each bit. First drill with a 3/16” bit, then moving to a 1/4" bit, and finishing off with the 5/16” bit.

Once the hole is drilled you will now start the tapping process. Take your 1/8 NPT Tap and attach it to your tap torque handle. You will start by twisting the tap into the hole to the right or Clockwise. Every half or full turn you will want to back out to the left or Counter-Clockwise to reinforce the thread and clear the shavings. I used a lot of cutting oil in between a couple or so turns this made the threading process quick and easier. Once the Tap is most of the way in, back it out easily and clear the shavings out of the pipe and the hole with brake cleaner do not be afraid to use a lot of brake cleaner so you do not re-circulate the shavings through the up pipe and waste gate side of the turbo. Now you will want to install the bung in your newly threaded hole, use the torque specifications that correspond with the brand of gauge components you have purchased. Install the probe as directed by your gauge instructions (here is a picture my assembly).

Attach the manifold pipe back on and run the wires to the driver’s side of the fire wall out of the way from moving parts attach them safely with tie wraps so they are out of the way. I pushed ALL my gauge wires through this hole that already had a rubber grommet in place right behind the brake pedal. You can cut a hole in the grommet accordingly to help grip all your wires. Run your wires up to the central spot where you gauges will be mounted (Clock pillar, Side Pillar, Etc…) . The last section of this thread will go over wiring splicing so if you gone this far Congrats for the most challenging gauge and it is done.

Boost

The boost gauge is a fairly easy one to install most of the assembly will be in your instructions that come with the gauge. It will come with a T- split which you will want to cut into the vacuum hose that runs to the By-Pass Valve here.

Install your T- Split and run the provided hose to your gauge or other hardware per instructions of your gauge. Again run all wires needed through the same firewall point as mentioned above for the EGT Gauge. The Wire splicing will be mention below in the last section.

Tachometer (with Shift light)

Most people will say that this gauge is “rice” or useless. When ever I go to the track it is nice to concentrate on driving the car down the track without having to look at the center gauge. When you learn your power curve (you know when you stop producing power) so it is time to shift up. You can set your shift light at that point of your RPM’s, so the shift light tells when to shift. So you do not redline from excitement and you are racing to your car’s to the best possible limit for great run times.

Mount the gauge after you remove your stock gauge cluster.
This will make running the wires for power, Illumination and ground for the tachometer and all other gauges easier.

Wiring

This is how I connected my wires and have connected them for years there are other ways but this has worked the best for me.

First DISCONNECT YOUR NEGATIVE CONNECTOR TO YOUR BATTERY!

Now you will want to follow the color code provided by the instructions of your manuals of your gauges fro m the back of the gauges to the following on your Subaru. I ran three spliced wires from the back of the clock pod. If you look where the connector to the back of the clock runs you will see they are actually labeled. You may cut the tape and tie wraps to gently pull more slack in the wire to help your splice job.

Accessory 12v switched is the Yellow wire with Blue stripe

Ground is the solid Black wire

Illumination is the White wire with Red stripe

Run your spliced wires to the central point of where the gauges will be mounted. Splice them together accordingly with the wiring diagram per the gauge brand. This can be done with a connection block or wire nuts.

The tachometer requires a sender to be spliced take the corresponding wire for the tachometer and splice it to the wire attached to the green clip that was attached to the stock gauge cluster that is all the way to the right and splice it to the solid blue wire which is the sixth wire to the left.