While it’s myth that nine out of 10 restaurants fail in their first year, it is true that about one in four go under that first year, and after three years it’s three in five that fail.

Yet longevity is the operative word for John’s of Willow Glen, the new name for the 35-year-old John’s Xlnt Foods.

John Kouretas, his wife, Sophia, and his brother, Pete, bought Mike’s Xlnt Foods in 1976, changing the name to John’s Xlnt Foods.

John emigrated from his native Greece to Salinas in 1970, where he met Sophia. Starting as a busboy, he worked his way up to cook and moved to San Jose. He continued to cook at local restaurants, including the now-gone Zorba’s, while saving his money to open his own place.

In the 3½ decades since the purchase of the Lincoln Avenue restaurant, both the décor and the management changed.

The red velour wallpaper and gold tablecloths are gone, replaced with a trompe l’oeil mural of a Greek village on the Mediterranean Sea and a lighter color scheme.

The most recent change, coinciding with the name change, was getting a full liquor license and putting in a small bar in the rear with 10 bar stools and two flat screen televisions. A special bar menu has also been created.

When the weather is nice, there is outdoor seating for 12, bringing the 2,200-square-foot restaurant’s capacity close to 100.

John and Sophia have stayed at the helm, but now their son Chris is doing more and more. He expects his parents will retire in the next few years and spend more time in their native Greece, where they visit annually for a month or two.

Chris remembers when his parents bought the restaurant.

“In 1976 I was 5 years old, and I remember spending a lot of time here,” he says with a laugh.

“When I was around 13 or 14, I started as a busboy. I worked my way up to being a waiter and a line cook. I’ve done everything.

“My parents were always against me being here. My dad grew up in the business, and they knew how much work it was. They said, ‘You gotta go to college.’ “

Chris did fulfill his parents’ wishes, earning a business degree in hospitality management at San Francisco State, but he says, his heart was always in his family’s restaurant.

“I like being around people, getting to know people. For me, it’s in my blood and part of who I am,” he says. “I enjoy being here. I enjoy working with my dad. It just seems natural to continue on the business.”

The Xlnt moniker was dated, and as Chris says, “Most people called it John’s anyway when referring to the restaurant.

“John’s of Willow Glen is more contemporary.”

The Kouretas family heritage is obvious in the more than 100 dishes offered, which include a full breakfast, lunch and dinner menu.

There are dolmades, moussaka, saganaki and spanakorizo, but you’ll also find a 12-ounce tri-tip steak, fettuccine Alfredo, Philly cheese steak, linguica and a classic BLT.

In addition to those who eat in, there is a significant take-out business as well.

Chris says small plates and appetizers are most popular with diners these days, so they’ve expanded their offerings in those areas.

“Our niche is all about giving good quality food at affordable prices. We’re not fancy, we’re family,” he says. “My customers say it feels homey, and it makes me happy to think people feel good coming in here,” he says. “I try to say hello to every single person that walks in the door and welcome them.”

Chris is aware of the new restaurants coming to Lincoln Avenue and sees anything that increases traffic as a positive thing.

“I’d like to see more retail that would stay open later and bring not only diners but shoppers into the area,” he says. “After 6 p.m., it’s really quiet. We’re missing not just restaurants; we’re missing retail and night life to give it more energy.”

Looking ahead, Chris says he can envision the restaurant becoming a third generation enterprise.

He and his wife, Carey, have three daughters–Bella, who is 11 and twins Lola and Yani who are 9.

“My daughters are always asking to come and help, but they’re just not old enough,” Chris says, remembering his own enthusiasm.

“I see them one day working and continuing the family cycle. Maybe we will have a couple of busgirls in the next few years.”

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