THE NE.,WYORKER is not home for the mainlanders Ox- carts still trundle along the streets, but they are outnumbered by glittering American station wagons and battered Army jeeps. The main street of Taipei, the once sleepy Sun Yat-sen Road, where the oxcarts used to amble without chal- I lenge, has waked up to such an extent that traffic lights have had tu be put in. The people do not even wear Chinese clothes; the women have evolved their own costume of blouse and skirt, and the men, who at one time copied conserva- tive Western dress right down to the col- lar and tie, now affect Hawaiian shirts, lIke the ones worn off duty by the omnipre<;ent American pilots they ad- mire so much. New housing develop- ments, neat but without charm, have cropped up at the edges of the town. The main square of Taipei-and the entÏ1 e city, for that matter-IS domI- nated by Chieh Shou Hall, a long, hide- ous red brick building with a sudden tower, which was built years ago by the Japanese. In front of it is a big open court, excellent for military displays. In- side it are the office<; of the Generalis- simo and the Important officials of his government. The focal point of the American colony, the Mutual Security Agency building, is not far away . To get to it, you have to pick your way along an arcaded street between men selling melons and clusters of litchi nuts and tightly bound bundles of cannas. Within the M.S.A. building, the scene abruptly changes. You are in shining halls like those of an American bank. The rooms are wide and sensibly breezy, with electric fans perched everywhere. From these offices comes a flood of printed matter-booklets, diagra1I1$, pamphlets, and reports in such profusion that one begins to understand why more and more people and funds are needed to explain to the United States why more and more people and funds are needed to keep M.S.A. going. The city is too crowded, the old residents com- plaIn, and it is true that while the Amer- icans have not added appreciably to the crowd, more and more foreign names are being painted on Taipei's mailboxes and shopkeepers have added EnglIsh words to their old Chinese signs. Chil- dren no longer stare wonderingly at foreigners but call out, like modern chil- dren almost all the world over, "Hel- l '" d (C O K '" o . an .. . ((It's so bad for the children, all this," a disgruntled Englishwoman who has lived in Formosa for years saId to me. ((They used to be so well behaved. When you met them in the street, all neat and clean, with their schoolbags and little caps, they would stand in a 129 He'd really appreciate BULKA'S HANDSOME ROBES TWILL SILK .ROBE Wonderful at hon1e and abroad. Original Sulka designs \vith solid color silk trim; unlined except for si1k..lined sleeves. Ground shades of navy, blue, brown, green, black. 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