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About Eilif

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Interesting thread. I'm a tabletop-quality guy so basecolors, dip and maybe a bit of drybrushing here or there. When I get motivated and am working in medium sized batches I probably turn out an average of one mini per 20-30 minutes not counting drying time.
As far as getting better, the improvement of my style mostly has to do with getting cleaner results and more effective dip-shading by improving my application methods rather than learning new techniques.

Not sure if I showed these before, but for 10mm gaming, Audio casette tape cases are your friends! The height of a tape case is pretty darn close to one story in 10mm and they look great when stacked. Also they all seem to be made of some sort of styrene so you can use plastic glue or superglue.
I buy cassetes 10 for a dollar at the resale shops and even use alot of the innards of the tapes themselves.
The vehicles and infantry below are 10mm
More buildings here:
http://chicagoskirmish.blogspot.com/2015/04/small-scale-building-commissions.html
They don't even have to be that fancy to look good. I made a set of 8 for a buddy that used a much more limited selection of parts
See them all here:
http://bg.battletech.com/forums/index.php?topic=46831.msg1079984#msg1079984
Also, to give credit where due, the idea isn't original to me. I got it from Ironhands.com in the Gundam section.

I'd just like to say that as much as I'd like to see plastic Cav's in stores, this is very upright what you guys are doing regarding retail and taking care of your kickstarter supporters. Too many other kickstarter creators chase the $ train so hard that the KS supporters who made the product possible sometimes get their products and/or replacements long after folks can get them at retail.
Bravo!

Nice find! I'll have to check them out. I agree with folks that waiting for a sale or signing up for their coupons is a great way to go. Michael's and Hobby Lobby have roughly the same promotional system.
I've found that pre-painted ceramic buildings can be great for quickly assembling a collection fantasy terrain. I've got an entire fantasy village made from porcelain christmas houses. Most are nearly stock. Most get a touch of drybrush and then I give them a coat of Minwax polyshades Tudor to dirty them up. Finally I paint and flock or ballast over the snowed areas and matte varnish on all unflocked surfaces to cut the shine. The end result is pretty convincing, IMHO.
A few have gotten minor mods such as a new door (as seen above) and some required massive surgery.
You can see them all here:
http://chicagoskirmish.blogspot.com/2012/03/28mm-on-cheap-fast-and-cheap-fantasy.html
and here
http://chicagoskirmish.blogspot.com/2012/05/medieval-village-grows.html
The last one includes some heavily modified bridges.

Forgive the necromancy, but two updates.
First, I forgot about this thread but figured I should post the link to the" show-off" topic with the finished pics.
http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/62420-dragons-dont-share-77381-terrain-finished/
Secondly, I recently finished up a second example of the top of the tower section. It had been given to me by a friend who couldn't get the two parts to join correctly. By gluing it in phases (first one corner, then the bit next to it and hold, then another...) using water thin superlue (that sucks into the cracks and dries fast) I was able to get it glued together quickly easily. However like the first set, I couldn't get it to lie perfectly flat on the table. I ended up basing it as it's own ruined tower on a bit of hardboard. It looks great and I've got no worries about warping now. No pics unfortunately as I already gave it to a buddy of mine as a going-away present.
I really do love Bones for terrain. It's easy to paint, affordable and super sturdy. Though I'm drowning in figs and terrain projects I still ordered the Stone-hengey "Mystic Circle" terrain piece from Bones 3. However, I will likely never use large bones terrain pieces without sturdy basing. Pieces of PVC this big are just too prone to slight warpage. It isn't an issue for most sides of the model, but can be a problem if one side needs to remain perfectly flat. The danger of warpage is compounded if you live in an area like Chicago with very high and very low temperatures, even moreso if you store your terrain in a garage or porch.

As usual, I'm late to the party, but that Tigerian Merc is great. I like antropomorphic animal figs in my gaming warbands. Besides the post-apoc armadillo, are there any other non-fantasy reaper animal-people figures?
With the huge number of sci-fi races out there it does seem odd that no one is making a wargameable faction of these.
There used to be some good figures called "Rawr" from Regiment Games, but they went under and no one seems to have picked up the molds unfortunately. Maybe a hunt on Ebay?
Khurasan has some great "Tigrid" figs, but they're all in 15mm and I've not heard anything to suggest that a 28mm version is planned.

Thanks for those pics! Extremely useful for anyone looking at this kit. Having recently over-bought on VOTOM's kits I don't personally need any hardsuits right now, but I do like the IMEF Bulldog. It reminds me alot of the old Grenadier Future Warriors Power Armor and in a good way. Especially the loadout and the fact that it isn't covered with silly unnecessary detail.

The warhammer movement tray kit is actually a pretty neat modular product that you can use to make any of the various sized bases you might need for KoW. Most of the KoW base sizes, unit sizes and Tray sizes are copied strait from WHFB anyway, a legacy (or perhaps a continuationâ€¦) of when Mantic was mostly selling their product as WHFB proxies.
For my human KoW army I picked up a batch of standard plastic movement trays from what I think was Renedra. They work for most of my units, but I'm going to hack a few apart to make the more unusual sizes.

Recently my friend gave me the terrain pieces from the Reaper "Dragons Don't Share" set.
Despite a couple minor and excusable flaws, this is a very impressive terrain set that paints up a treat and by virtue of being sectioned should prove quite versatile. Full range of pics and review here:
http://chicagoskirmish.blogspot.com/2015/06/dragons-dont-share-but-mike-does.html
Like most of my minis and terrain, I've gone for a fast-but-nice tabletop wargaming standard. The idea being to finish a project before my ADD takes over and I lose interest. Hence it's mostly a few fast wetbrush and drybrush layers, though I did add some texture to the model by sprinkling a bit of sand here and there over the wet black gesso I primed it with..
Here's A few pics to entice you to visit the blog/gallery...

Finally got around to painting this thing. A soak in some boiling water followed by a reshape and cool water failed to get an even flat bottom so I glued it down to some fairly thick hardboard. To keep the pieces fitting together properly I did have to cut the hardboard mostly strait down with no bevel, but a bit of sand ( I also sprinkled a bit it here and there on the whole thing) made it look pretty natural.
I'll have a post with pics up soon, but suffice to say I highly recommend basing this thing.

I use bark instead for large rocks in most circumstances. It looks the part and is easy drill, cut, etc. It can even be stacked and flaked so as to both surround and cover an existing cast-on base without having to cut of the mini.
If you have a rock you really want to use, you can try to crack it in half with a hammer and chisel, then attach a long pin to the models foot and put the two pieces of the rock on either side of the pin. The model will be stepping on the crack, but the effect should be pretty convincing.
Alternatively, if the minis foot is big enough, you might get enough of a bond with a rubberized superglue (Instaflex, IC-2000 or Gorilla Impact tough) or some epoxy to make the bond.

Thanks! Glad you liked the flocking. I think it goes a long way to add the visual interest that my 2-color paint-job doesn't automatically provide.
I actually have one more mini Hirst arts project on my desk. in the mix were 20+ of the skull blocks that are part of one of the molds. I took a bunch of extra slottas, put two skulls on each and based with a bit of sand to make a whole bunch of objective/loot markers. A simple brown wash over bare white plaster looks great on these! The wash looks better (I assume it soaks in somehow) on the bare plaster than on the two skulls that were cast in light grey plaster and then painted white.
No pre-paint pics, but I'll snap a pic of the final product.