vintuba.com » EDUCATIONhttp://blog.vintuba.com
Everyman's Wine Snob meets Wine Snob's EverymanWed, 21 Nov 2012 04:58:21 +0000en-UShourly1http://wordpress.org/?v=4.0There is so much information available about wine these days. Alcohol levels, scores, facts, tasting notes, personal opinions. It can be overwhelming. Amidst all this chatter, we have found ourselves going back to the beginning. Wine materializes from the land, people, climate, history, earth and we are seeking to find those elements that bring wine to life. The Stories Behind Wine is a series where we look at wine from outside the bottle.Vintuba LLCnoVintuba LLCchriso@vintuba.comchriso@vintuba.com (Vintuba LLC)Vintuba LLCThe Stories Behind Winewine, beer, mixology, review, drink, alcohol, vintubavintuba.com » EDUCATIONhttp://blog.vintuba.com/wp-content/uploads/powerpress/Radio_Mic_vintuba.pnghttp://blog.vintuba.com/category/education/
Napa, CaliforniaA Case For German Rieslinghttp://blog.vintuba.com/2012/11/20/a-case-for-german-riesling/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/11/20/a-case-for-german-riesling/#commentsWed, 21 Nov 2012 00:19:14 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2880Recently, a friend asked me to discuss German wines with him. He seemed to have a particularly difficult time understanding their labels. I told him the parable of good news and bad news. The good news is that there is a lot of information on a German wine label. “What about the bad news”, he asked. “That there is a lot of information on the label,” I answered.

Recently, a friend asked me to discuss German wines with him. He seemed to have a particularly difficult time understanding their labels. I told him the parable of good news and bad news. The good news is that there is a lot of information on a German wine label. “What about the bad news”, he asked. “That there is a lot of information on the label,” I answered.

Well, there you have the problem in a nutshell. The fact that labels are written in German doesn’t make it any easier, as few wine drinkers are fluent in German. Additionally, the fact that German labels are totally different from the French AOC nomenclature makes understanding German wines ever more difficult.

The French AOC laws are based on location and yield; historical performance was incorporated and a regional hierarchy of quality was established. Given the fact that Germany’s location is at the fringe of northern grape-ripening latitude, ripeness could be a problem with a system based on geography and yield. The German wine laws were crafted to measure for must weight, rather than yield, thus elegantly avoiding yield and focusing on must quality.

A quick aside to those wine lovers who have graduated from their beginner wines like e white zinfandel: all wines with residual sugar are not created equal. Cloying sweetness is neither a requirement, nor a mark of quality. Moderate sweetness with a solid underpinning of acidity, a Riesling trait, is an expression of some of the finest wines in the world.

Aside from a couple of wine categories you’ll never be likely to encounter here (Deutscher Wein, vin de table, and Deutscher Landwein, vin du pays), there are two levels of quality worthy of examining. The first one is an intimidating tongue twister, Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete, [kvah-lih-TAYTS-vine behr-SHTIHMT-tuhr ahn-BOW-geh-beet-A], or just QbA. These wines have the lightest must weight, are usually with residual sugar and have a low alcohol level (7-8% abv.) They must come from approved grape varieties, and can only be from one of the 13 quality wine growing regions. A good example may be the ubiquitous Liebfraumilch of yesteryear, but there are some very nice current examples from many producers. Dr. Loosen’s Dr. L QbA Riesling Estate 2011 has low alcohol, a palate-cleansing acidity and goes with every meal, from rich eggs Benedict to salty ham and even dessert.

The top tier of the German style pyramid is called Prädikatswein [Pray-dee-cOHts-vine], and it consists of six categories, in ascending order of must weight, body and complexity: Kabinett, Spätlese, (late harvest) Auslese, (special selection), Beerenauslese BA (individual berry selection, some botrytis), Trockenbeerenauslese TBA (dried berry selection, heavily botrytised), and Eiswein (ice wine, harvested frozen).

The first three categories of Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese can be light in alcohol (7-8% abv.) with residual sugar, or fermented to dry, with higher alcohol (12-14% abv.) So much for the perception that all German wines are sweet. Dry Rieslings can be found in Kabinett, Spätlese, and Auslese levels; they are all the rage now. But, how do you know the wine style? A few words will help: trocken is dry, feinherb or halbtrocken is semi-dry, lieblich is semi-sweet. If you do not find these words on the label, use this rule: since the alcohol range is from about 7-14% (for all three categories), the lower the alcohol, the more residual sugar, and conversely, the higher the alcohol, the drier the wine.

Beerenauslese wines always have residual sugar, and often show some of the botrytis aromatics. They are absolutely fabulous and very pricey. Some are bottled in 187 ml size, a clear indication of exclusivity.

Trockenbeerenauslese is the highest must weight category; it is from heavily botrytised grapes. The gooey and sticky juce is extremely difficult to ferment. The wine is unctuously sweet, with botrytis aromas, apricot, honey and spices. Wines of this quality level are rarely seen outside Germany, and command prices in the thousands of dollars for a 375 ml. bottle.

Eiswein is usually made from non-botrytised Riesling grapes harvested at a minimum of 17 deg. F, then quickly pressed while frozen. Nature has to play along, or there will be no ice wine. Entire German wine-growing villages are monitoring temperatures overnight late in fall and early winter to be ready for a very cold harvest before daybreak. The principle behind an ice wine is quite simple, although the execution is not: water freezes at a higher temperature than liquid sugar does. The magic temperature of 17 deg. F retains a large part of the water in the grape as a solid with pips and skins, thus increasing the must weight–the same level as TBA. Eiswein is thefinest expression of Riesling, which in my opinion is king of the hill of all white wine grape varieties.

Well, I hope you will venture into the German section of your favored wine store soon. Try them, and be surprised how fabulous German Riesling—from dry to sweet—can be.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/11/20/a-case-for-german-riesling/feed/0Not all Chianti is the same, some are indeed Classico (and others should be)!http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/06/04/not-all-chinatis-are-the-same-some-are-indeed-classico-and-others-should-be/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/06/04/not-all-chinatis-are-the-same-some-are-indeed-classico-and-others-should-be/#commentsTue, 05 Jun 2012 03:51:18 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2728I have just returned from my trip to the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany...What struck me most on my trip, was not the beautiful sun-kissed rolling hills covered with vineyards, forests, and ancient hilltop villages. No, as impressive as they were, it was the people, their history, and their culture that struck me most. It was the people and their culture that provide the wines of Chianti Classico with their nerve, their balance, and their approachability.

I have just returned from my trip to the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, courtesy of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, and wanted to share with you my impressions and some wine recommendations for those of you interested in discovering or re-discovering this magical land between Florence and Sienna.

Before we dive into my ramblings and reviews, I think it important to give you a little more foundation about Chianti Classico. Most of you have heard of Chianti and have had visions of the straw basket Chianti bottles know as Fiasco that decorate many an Italian pizzerias in the US. However, Chianti Classico is by design a distant third cousin of these inexpensive, generic and acidic wines. Wines labeled Chianti Classico that also are adorned with the Gallo Nero (Black Rooster) come from a smaller delineated sub-section of broader Chianti and is limited to the following sub-regions; San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Tavernelle Val di Pesa, Barberino Val d’Elsa, Poggibonsi, Greve in Chinati, Radda in Chianti, Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, and Castelnuovo Baradenga. The Chianti region dates back to 1716, when the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo III, decided to protect its name and establish its borders. His 1716 proclamation is the first legal document in history delineating a wine region. In 1932 the Chianti Classico sub-zone was created in the effort to distinguish this, the original zone, from other “Chianti” wine made outside the productions zone listed above. In 1996, the Chianti Classico region received its own D.O.C.G. (Italy’s highest application designation), which transformed Chianti Classico from a subzone into its own independent denomination. More changes are on the way soon (click here to read more about the changes).

What struck me most on my trip, was not the beautiful sun-kissed rolling hills covered with vineyards, forests, and ancient hilltop villages. No, as impressive as they were, it was the people, their history, and their culture that struck me most. It was the people and their culture that provide the wines of Chianti Classico with their nerve, their balance, and their approachability. People like Giovanni Manetti of Fontodi winery and Paolo De Marchi of Isole e Olena winery, both of whom you will meet in our upcoming The Stories Behind Wine Podcast. It is their commitment to preserving and staying true to their rich history and culture, all the while remaining dedicated to improving the quality of their wines. Some are taking the traditional approach to crafting their wines, while others are taking a more decidedly modernist approach (more on this later). Both camps however believe that the quality of their wines rest squarely on the shoulders of the improved viticulture in the vineyard.

Every winery owner an winemaker I spoke to echoed the oft spoken words that “wines are made in the vineyard” and pointed to their commitment to using improved Sangiovese clones, understanding their vineyards soil structure and terroir, and experimenting with vine planting density. Some, such as Francesco Ricasoli (the Baron) of Barone Ricasoli winery, are going as far as engaging a company to map his vineyards with high-tech instruments that will help him and his agronomist Massimiliano Biagi craft better wines from better vineyards. Paolo di Marchi, of Isole e Olena winery, started this process back in the mid 1980’s, albeit with a less technological focused approach. He did it by digging pits in his vineyards to better understand the soil structure and by hand selecting vines from his own vineyards to propagate with new plantings. This desire for improving the vineyards and clonal material of grape varieties was not limited to individual producers. In 1987 the Consortium launched and ambitious and transformative project called Chianti Classico 2000 aimed at identifying the best clones of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino and Malvasia Nera. (More info here). This is a land where the agronomist may be more important than the winemaker.

As Vittorio Pozzesi says: “The whole world can make Cabernet or Merlot but only we can make Sangiovese. Why change it?”

Castello d’Albola

I mentioned before that there are producers who have taken a traditional approach to crafting their wines and those with a decidedly modernist approach. Here is what I mean; in my view a traditionalist is someone who shuns the international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Syrah in their blends (even though up to 20% of these varieties are permitted in the wines of Chianti Classico) in favor of either 100% Sangiovese or Sangiovese blended with Canaiolo, they also use minimal new oak French barriques in favor of larger Slovenian botti (extremely large barrels that can hold up to 6,000 liters of wine). These are wines driven by a balance of red cherry fruit, earthy notes, and refreshing acidity – wines that are crafted to support the cuisine of the region not over power them. I dare say these are wines crafted in the heart of the region’s culture and would be considered traditional.

The Modernist wines are wines that take greater advantage of the power of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, thus pushing the concentration of the wine and emphasizing black fruits, softer tannins, and bigger body while down-playing the acidity. Add on top of the addition of the international varieties, the growing trend to age the wines in new French oak producing wines that are more in common with the wines of California and appealing to the palates of wine lovers who enjoy their wines independently of food. Don’t get me wrong, there are some incredible modernist styled wines, made by winery owners passionate about the region and its culture, however some (not all) of the wines are hard to distinguish as heralding from Chianti Classico, let alone the Sangiovese grape. As a side note, I want to make it clear that I am referring here to wines labeled with the Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva D.O.C.G.s and not the “Super Tuscan” wines labeled I.G.T.

Before I give you my recommendations of wines from both camps, traditional vs. modernist, I want to for a moment bring us back to the subject of the people of the Chianti Classico region. The people, whether they are multi-generational locals, expats from other Italian regions, or international transplants, all seem to have an authentic passion and committed to the land upon which they live, a true love of not only the region but of the wines that hail from it. The number of winery owners that are in touch with the land is amazing; many of these wineries are not mere investments or trophies, but a place they call home. They are connected to the land because they choose to reside on it, and to improve it by committing to, as in the case of the vintners and growers in Panzano in Chinati, farming organically. Here wine is a part of life interwoven with the local food, music, culture, and rolling hills, it is not a means onto itself but merely an extension of the land, its centuries old history and its people.

2006 Fattoria Rodano Chinati Classico Riserva – Perfumed aromas of red fruits layered with dark chocolate, black cherries and cigar box. Flavors of red and black fruits present a lush entrance on the palate and coat the mouth, classic bright acidity while the structured tannins offer a nice support to the fruit. On the finish sweet vanilla from the French oak aging is apparent but well-integrated. A post-modern Chianti Classico Riserva worth seeking out!

2008 Castello d’Albola Le Ellere Chianti Classico – Red fruit; cherries and strawberries backed by an earthy nerve. Flavors of dried cherries, smoky undertones, and cranberry give way to a nervy acidity which gives a nice lift to the fruit and helps offset the silky tannins. A wine showing great poise and balance.

The Modernists (Armani and Jean Paul Gaultier mash-up) :

2008 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico – Concentrated ripe black fruit with some savory notes and evidence vanilla and judicious use of new wood. Flavors of chocolate, extracted fruit (plum, black cherries) give this wine power. Tannins are ripe and polished and acidity is only medium. Wine shows good complexity and its modern oak inspired edge.

2009 Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva – Loads of dark cherries, sweet oak, new leather and earthiness. Gobs of fruit make this a bold styled Chianti Classico. Tannins are silky and acidity is less than in more classic expressions of Sangiovese. There is a healthy dose of French oak in use. here Clearly a modern style (Merlot is very much in evidence) that is well put together and impresses with its power and sweet oak.

Fontodi Flaccianello

The IGT’s (The 100% Sangiovese outsiders that could define the region):

2008 Felsina Fontalloro – Good aromatic intensity of candied cherries, black and blue fruits, sweet French oak and vanilla, with hints of earth. The palate reveals structured tannins and classic bright acidity that help balance the curvaceous body. Flavors of black cherries, plum, and blueberries are interwoven with chocolate, and a mineral character. This wine is both power and grace, showing a long complex finish albeit with a modern edge.

2008 Isole e Olena Cepparello – Floral, raspberry, red cherry aromas backed by leather, oak and vanilla. Tannins are polished and ripe and acidity dances on the edge of the tongue. This is a medium plus plus bodied wine with flavors of Mulberry, vanilla, tar, black fruit that finishes very long and complex. Amazing balance of all the components. A fabulous wine!

2007 Fontodi Flaccianello – Aromas of rose peddles, perfume, sandalwood, cinnamon spice, vanilla, and black cherries, in a word amazing! Structured tannins that give this wine staying power. The acidity gives poise and lifts the flavors of spice, black pepper, black currant, and dark cherries. The finish is elegant, beautifully structured with a complexity rivaled by very few wines. A masterpiece that shows what other 100% sangiovese wine should aspire to.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/06/04/not-all-chinatis-are-the-same-some-are-indeed-classico-and-others-should-be/feed/0Changes in Tuscany (Chianti Classico revamps its denomination)http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/05/28/changes-in-tuscany-chianti-classico-revamps-its-denomination/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/05/28/changes-in-tuscany-chianti-classico-revamps-its-denomination/#commentsTue, 29 May 2012 05:38:11 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2716A few days ago I reported that there were changes a foot in Chianti Classico, well the changes has been officially voted on by the Chianti Classico Consortium after they voted by a wide majority to approve the measures proposed by the board of directors to revamp the denomination

A few days ago I reported that there were changes afoot in Chianti Classico, well those changes have been officially decided on by the Chianti Classico Consortium after they voted by a wide majority to approve the measures, proposed by the board of directors to revamp the denomination. This vote allows the consortium to proceed with creating a new category of Chianti Classico at the top of the quality pyramid. Furthermore the emblematic Gallo Nero (Black Rooster) currently present on the governmental seal, denoting Chianti Classico D.O.C.G., will be relocated to the neck of the bottle to increase its visibility.

There has been much heated debate about these changes over the last many months, but most of the producers I spoke to, during my current trip to the region, were in full support of the measure, and yesterday’s vote saw the biggest participation of general assembly members in the past 30 years. When the gavel fell the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium members had approved a set of measures marking a historic turning point for the Chianti Classico DOCG.

Here is what was decided:

Creation of a new qualitative pyramid: approval was given to the proposal to create a top quality level for the Chianti Classico qualitative pyramid, which currently is limited to two different levels ; regular Chianti Classico “vintage” and Chianti Classico Riserva “reserve”.

This new kind level of Chianti Classico, whose name the assembly will define in coming months, will exclusively denote the Chianti Classico wines made from grapes grown solely on the producing wineries estate. So grapes sourced from other wineries or purchased in bulk will not be allowed for inclusion in the top-level wine. Furthermore, the minimum ageing of this new level of wine will be set at 30 months from grape harvest, with a minimum three months spent in the bottle. For Riserva wines the mandated ageing period remains two years, and for Chianti Classico a minimum of 12 months.

Further defining “Riserva”: Even the Riserva, which accounts for 30% of the amount produced and 40% of the denomination’s value, was involved in the revamping. While the maturation period remains unchanged, the new fact is that the vintner has to declare wine destination, i.e. whether he or she intends to make a Riserva when applying for certification. In effect the producer makes a more conscientious decision, in the production stage already deciding which grapes should be destined for the various types of wine.

Gallo Nero makeover: the trademark black rooster, that since 2005, represents the entire denomination and has that since then has been present on the state neckband seal for all producers of Chianti Classico (whether belonging to the consortium or not) will be graphically re-styled and relocated from the official seal to the neck of the bottle, in an effort to make it more visible on the bottle.

So what happens next? Well the consortium will now present this proposal ratified by its members will be put before the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and forestry who oversees the D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. regulations. He then will decide whether or not to present it to the E.U. Wine Commission who will have the ultimate say in whether or not to enact the proposed changes. If it passes all approval hurdles consumers should see the new labeling terms starting with the release of the 2013 vintage of Chianti Classico wines.

The Chianti Classico region and its producers continue to look to the future and how they can improve the level of quality of their wines. Stay tuned for more in the coming weeks and days on what some producers are doing to cement their place on the roster of world-class wine estates.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/05/28/changes-in-tuscany-chianti-classico-revamps-its-denomination/feed/0Chianti Classico Region set to vote on amending their quality levelshttp://blog.vintuba.com/2012/05/25/chianti-classico-region-set-to-vote-on-amending-their-quality-levels/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/05/25/chianti-classico-region-set-to-vote-on-amending-their-quality-levels/#commentsSat, 26 May 2012 05:00:10 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2664 I had the pleasure of dinning with the Director General of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, Giuseppe Liberatore, last night in Castellini in Chianti, Italy for the Conzorzio’s annual Pentecost in Castellina in Chianti at the “Sotto Le Volte”. We spoke in depth about the region and what the future holds for arguably one […]

I had the pleasure of dinning with the Director General of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, Giuseppe Liberatore, last night in Castellini in Chianti, Italy for the Conzorzio’s annual Pentecost in Castellina in Chianti at the “Sotto Le Volte”. We spoke in depth about the region and what the future holds for arguably one of Tuscany’s most important quality regions, he shared with me that the Consorzio is set to take a landmark vote on a motion to amend the quality levels for the wines produced in this region. Currently there are two general quality levels that appear on the label, Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, the difference between the two being that the Riserva level is aged for a longer period before its release and thus usually represents a more complex expression of the region. Wine only labeled Chianti Classico is therefore a more youthful interpretation of the region.

Classico (classic): is reserved for wines produced in the region where a particular type of wine has been produced “traditionally”. For the Chianti Classico, this “traditional region” is defined by a decree from July 10, 1932. Usually a relatively young wine rich in fruit that is put on the market on October 1st a year following the vintage year.

Riserva (reserve): may be used only for wines that have been aged at least two years, with at least three consisting of ageing in bottle.

The proposed changes that Giuseppe shared with me are intent to add a third quality level that would sit at the top of the new proposed “quality pyramid”, this top level (the name is yet to be determined) would be required to be made from grapes coming exclusively from the estate vineyards of the producers, currently there exist no such legislation. A further proposed change is that producers will now need to declare their wines as Riserva level at harvest and need to submit their Riserva wines to a tasting panel for approval before release. All these changes are intended to further secure the quality of the regions wines. A further change is that the emblematic Black Rooster, Gallo Nero, is to play more prominent role on the packaging of the wines, and its placement on the bottle regulated. This is a move intended to help further distinguish these wines from the wines labeled simply Chianti, which come from a far broader region of Tuscany.

This historic vote on changing Chianti Classico’s future will take place on Monday the 28th and involve all 350 members. Giuseppe shared that this is sure to be a contentious day of debate and voting, and shared with me that the last time this issue was discussed the Consorzio members debated for 9 hours straight with no break for lunch! If the Chianti Classico members agree to accept the new proposed regulation changes it will then be put before the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and forestry who oversees the D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. regulations. He then will decide whether or not to present it to the E.U. Wine Commission who will have the ultimate say in whether or not to enact the proposed changes. If it passes all approval hurtles consumers should see the new labeling terms starting with the release of the 2013 vintage of Chianti Classico wines.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/05/25/chianti-classico-region-set-to-vote-on-amending-their-quality-levels/feed/0The Stories Behind Wine Episode 2 – Oslavia – Drinking Historyhttp://blog.vintuba.com/2012/05/20/the-stories-behind-wine-episode-2-oslavia-drinking-history/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/05/20/the-stories-behind-wine-episode-2-oslavia-drinking-history/#commentsSun, 20 May 2012 23:59:26 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2602Inspired by the book, “Ribolla Gialla Oslavia: The Invisible Part of a Wine,” we travel to a little village in Italy called Oslavia that has been gaining popularity in the wine world for producing non-traditional, original wines with the Ribolla Gialla grape. The battle ground for both 20th century world wars, this area experienced complete destruction only to have strong independent winemakers return to replant its vineyards and rebuild. With Ribolla Gialla, you can drink Oslavia’s history.

Inspired by the book, “Ribolla Gialla Oslavia: The Invisible Part of a Wine,” we travel to a little village in Italy called Oslavia that has been gaining popularity in the wine world for producing non-traditional, original wines with the Ribolla Gialla grape. The battle ground for both 20th century world wars, this area experienced complete destruction only to have strong independent winemakers return to replant its vineyards and rebuild. With Ribolla Gialla, you can drink Oslavia’s history.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/05/20/the-stories-behind-wine-episode-2-oslavia-drinking-history/feed/0Oslavia, Italy, wine, Podcast, Collio, Stories Behind Wine, Ribolla Gialla, The invisible part of a wine, VintubaInspired by the book, “Ribolla Gialla Oslavia: The Invisible Part of a Wine,” we travel to a little village in Italy called Oslavia that has been gaining popularity in the wine world for producing non-traditional,Inspired by the book, “Ribolla Gialla Oslavia: The Invisible Part of a Wine,” we travel to a little village in Italy called Oslavia that has been gaining popularity in the wine world for producing non-traditional, original wines with the Ribolla Gialla grape. The battle ground for both 20th century world wars, this area experienced complete destruction only to have strong independent winemakers return to replant its vineyards and rebuild. With Ribolla Gialla, you can drink Oslavia’s history.Vintuba.comclean21:05The Stories Behind Wine Episode 1 – Porthttp://blog.vintuba.com/2012/02/23/the-stories-behind-wine-episode-1-port/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/02/23/the-stories-behind-wine-episode-1-port/#commentsFri, 24 Feb 2012 06:51:59 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2469Port

History-Science-Party

We talk to Nick Poleto Director of wine education for Kobrand Imports. Get out your smoking jacket, light up your cigars and kick back to the soothing tales of Port.

There is so much information available about wine these days. Alcohol levels, scores, facts, tasting notes, personal opinions. It can be overwhelming. Amidst all this chatter, we have found ourselves going back to the beginning. Wine materializes from the land, people, climate, history, earth and we are seeking to find those elements that bring wine to life. The Stories Behind Wine is a series where we look at wine from outside the bottle.

Episode 1 – Port

History-Science-Party

We talk to Nick Poleto Director of wine education for Kobrand Imports. Get out your smoking jacket, light up your cigars and kick back to the soothing tales of Port.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2012/02/23/the-stories-behind-wine-episode-1-port/feed/0Port, Wine, Stories, Vintuba, Christian OggenfussPort - History-Science-Party - We talk to Nick Poleto Director of wine education for Kobrand Imports. Get out your smoking jacket, light up your cigars and kick back to the soothing tales of Port.Port
History-Science-Party
We talk to Nick Poleto Director of wine education for Kobrand Imports. Get out your smoking jacket, light up your cigars and kick back to the soothing tales of Port.Vintuba.comno13:57Global #PortDay 2012http://blog.vintuba.com/2011/12/12/global-portday-2012/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2011/12/12/global-portday-2012/#commentsTue, 13 Dec 2011 05:26:05 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2401This day is an opportunity for not only producers, but wine educators, geeks, blogs, mainstream media, and the general public to put down their Cabernet and Chardonnay and join in a global celebration and education centered around Port.

I am very excited to announce that The Center for Wine Origins and I have organized the inaugural Port Day celebration for Friday, January 27th, 2012. Why did we do this you may ask? Well, I personally feel that Port, which incidentally only comes from Portugal, deserves not only wider recognition as one of the vinous wonders of the world but that there is a lot opportunity to expose the broader wine drinking public to this beverage. This day is an opportunity for not only producers, but wine educators, geeks, blogs, mainstream media, and the general public to put down their Cabernet and Chardonnay and join in a global celebration and education centered around Port.

Participating is easy. Join the#PortDay celebrations online by blogging, tweeting, posting and sharing your thoughts about this exceptional wine by using the#PortDay hashtag. Or, you can host or join one of the numerous retail and restaurant tastings that are being planned in locations across the United States.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2011/12/12/global-portday-2012/feed/0Global #ChampagneDay October 28th 2011 – A Thank Youhttp://blog.vintuba.com/2011/10/30/global-champagneday-october-28th-2011-a-thank-you/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2011/10/30/global-champagneday-october-28th-2011-a-thank-you/#commentsMon, 31 Oct 2011 05:53:09 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2252The 2nd annual 2011 installment of #ChampagneDay was off to a roaring start. I received too many email to count from countless individuals, wine educators, businesses and producers on how they could participate. What excited me most about this is that many wanted to host events and organize get-together in their local area, which was exactly what I had envisioned for this day all along, people getting together to celebrate, educate, enjoy, and most of all build relationships. I was fortunate to hosted an event with Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson here in Napa at the Westin Verasa.

Thanks again to all that participated in the 2011 iteration of #ChampagneDay and I hope to see you all for #ChampagneDay 2012 next year.

#ChampagneDay Thank you –

On Friday October 28th 2011 the world celebrated the 2nd annual installment of #ChampagneDay. #ChampagneDay was started last year by yours truly for no other reason then to educate wine lovers around the globe on the true uniqueness of this exhilarating beverage called Champagne. The goal was to bring together people from all over the world and have them discover, discuss, and enjoy REAL Champagne, which comes only from the region of the same name located in northeastern France. The first installment in 2010 was a humble effort supported by The Champagne Bureau in Washington DC, Whole Foods in Alexandria, Virginia, Champagne Tainttinger, Vintank,Becky Sue Epstein,Ed Thralls, and many many more Facebookers, Tweeters, and other IRL supporters.

The 2nd annual 2011 installment of #ChampagneDay was off to a roaring start. I received too many email to count from countless individuals, wine educators, businesses and producers on how they could participate. What excited me most about this is that many wanted to host events and organize get-together in their local area, which was exactly what I had envisioned for this day all along, people getting together to celebrate, educate, enjoy, and most of all build relationships. I was fortunate to hosted an event with Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson here in Napa at the Westin Verasa. The educational event consisted of a Champagne Overview Class – led by me (Christian Oggenfuss, DWS just incase you were wondering who the heck “me” is) (link here to the presentation), A Champagne Master Class – led by Andrea Immer Robinson, MS, and A Champagne and Food Pairing seminar led by Chef Ken Frank and Andrea Immer Robinson, MS. To see the wines we tasted see below. We had a total of 140 RSVPs for the three seminars and we’re humbled by the positive feedback. Events were also hosted in Sydney Australia, Reims France, Loire Valley, France, New York, London, Boston, Argentina, LA, Seattle, Palm Beach, Washington DC, Hong Kong, and I am sure many more that we did not even know about. Here are some brief stats for the day: People reached- 1.7 Million, Impressions 3.3 million, individual tweets 7,300 and this is just for the 24 hour period on October 28th 2011.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2011/10/30/global-champagneday-october-28th-2011-a-thank-you/feed/0First Day in Bordeauxhttp://blog.vintuba.com/2011/03/13/first-day-in-bordeaux/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2011/03/13/first-day-in-bordeaux/#commentsSun, 13 Mar 2011 17:08:29 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2233I am in Bordeaux and I invite you to join me virtually as I submerse myself in all things Bordeaux over the course of the next week.

Arrived in Bordeaux and feeling very jet-lagged, but looking forward to visiting the following chateaus over the next 5 days:Monday 14th March
Château DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Saint-Julien
Visit Tasting by Mr Bruno BORIE (owner)

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2011/03/13/first-day-in-bordeaux/feed/3My come to Jesus meeting with Beaujolaishttp://blog.vintuba.com/2010/11/13/my-come-to-jesus-meeting-with-beaujolais/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/11/13/my-come-to-jesus-meeting-with-beaujolais/#commentsSat, 13 Nov 2010 17:38:09 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2124On October 5th 2010 I had a “come to Jesus” meeting with Beaujolais. I had on many occasions thoroughly enjoyed Cru Beaujolais, but rarely if ever ordered them from a wine list or grabbed them from a wine store shelf. Not because I didn’t like them, I had loved them in the past, but because […]

On October 5th 2010 I had a “come to Jesus” meeting with Beaujolais. I had on many occasions thoroughly enjoyed Cru Beaujolais, but rarely if ever ordered them from a wine list or grabbed them from a wine store shelf. Not because I didn’t like them, I had loved them in the past, but because they where not in the forefront of my mind. I mean how often do you hear anyone talking about Beaujolais unless it is to speak ill of Beaujolais nouveau.

Ok so back to my religious awakening. So I got the opportunity to try the new 2009 vintage of the Cru Beaujolais at RN74 in San Francisco. I was a guest of the Inter Beaujolais, the trade organization that is in charge of promoting the region and funded by the French government. This is just one of the perks that a wine-geek and blogger gets, besides the look of disdain from “traditional” media when you mention you blog about wine. Any way I digress. The event was entitled “Fusion by Beaujolais” and its goal was to highlight the regions vinous virtues by pairing the much-heralded 2009 vintage of Cru wines with an Asian influenced four-course menu. Nonetheless, I was not about to have my palate influenced by a bunch of bureaucrats. But I must admit they were on to something!

But before we get the day’s highlights let me give you the 5 cent tour of the Beaujolais region. All the red wines from the Beaujolais region, which is regarded administratively as part of Burgundy but geologically as part of the northern Rhone, are vinified from the thin-skinned, prolific early-ripening Gamay grape. These grapes, by law must be harvested by hand. The region is stilled made up of many small independent growers and vignerons. The greater Beaujolais region is divided into two; The Haut-Beaujolais of the north and the Bas-Beaujolais of the south. Granite tends to dominate the northern Haut-Beaujolais where the wines of the Beaujolais-villages and Crus come from. The Cru wines account for a quarter of the production and are AOC labeled with the village name that they herald from; there are ten in all. So get yourself ready to meet the 10 Motley Crus of Beaujolais:

Saint-Amour – The wines from Saint-Amour are noted for their spicy flavors with aromas of peaches. Soils of mixed granite, clay, and schist.

Juliénas-This cru is based around the village named after Julius Caesar. Soil is clay mixed with sandy granite.

Chénas – the smallest Cru Beaujolais with wines that are noted for their aroma of wild roses. Soil is pure sandy grantie mixed with some gravel.

Moulin-à-Vent – Wines are very similar to the nearby Chénas. This region produces some of the longest lasting examples of Beaujolais wine, with some wines lasting up to ten years. Some producers will age their Moulin-à-Vent in oak, which gives these wines more tannin and structure than other Beaujolais wines. The phrase fûts de chêne (oak casks) will sometimes appear on the wine label of these oak aged wines The resulting wine from Moulin-à-Vent are the most full bodied and powerful examples in Beaujolais. Soils are dominated by manganese and salmon pink granite.

Fleurie – One of the most widely exported Cru Beaujolais into the United States. These wines often have a velvet texture with fruity and floral bouquet. The slopes are east facing and the soil is made up of pink granite shingles.

Chiroubles – This cru has vineyards at the highest altitudes among the Cru Beaujolais. Chiroubles cru are noted for their delicate perfume that often includes aromas of violets. Soils are pure granite with fine clay sand.

Morgon – Produces earthy wines that can take on a Burgundian character of silky texture after five years aging. These wines are generally the deepest color and most rich Cru Beaujolais behind Moulin-à-Vent with aromas of red cherries, apricots and peaches. The soils here are called roches pourries or “rotten rocks” and are composed of decomposed schist and iron.

Régnié – The most recently recognized Cru, One of the more fuller bodied crus It is noted for its red currant and raspberry flavors. Local lore in the region states that this Cru was the site of the first vineyards planted in Beaujolais by the Romans. Soils are part sandy granite and part schist.

Brouilly - The largest Cru in Beaujolais, The wines are noted for their aromas of blueberries, cherries, raspberries and currants. Soils here are varied with granite, schist, river alluvium, and sandy clay.

Côte de Brouilly – Located on the higher slopes of the extinct volcano Mont Brouilly. The wines from this region are more deeply concentrated with less earthiness than Brouilly wine. Soils are composed of granite with blue diorite and schist.

The Bas-Beaujolais is a different in soil make up of the north, here limestone rains supreme and many say it is not the ideal soil for the Gamay grape and thus is responsible for the often boring regular old Beaujolais, Beaujolais Supérieure, and of course Beaujolais nouveau. As you can see there is a lot more to Beaujolais then just nouveau!

Here is a little background on Beaujolais nouveau. For those that may not be familiar; Beaujolais Nouveau began as a local French phenomenon being served in the local bars, cafes, and bistros of Beaujolais and Lyons. Each fall the new Beaujolais would arrive with much fanfare. In pitchers filled from the grower’s barrels, an eager population consumed the wine. This was wine made for fast consumption (and even faster generation of cash flow for the producers) to be consumed while the better Beaujolais Villages and Crus were taking a more leisurely course to market. This French phenomenon quickly spread to neighboring countries in the 70’s, to England in the 80’s and finally to the U.S. in the 90’s.

By French law, Beaujolais Nouveau is to be released no earlier than the third Thursday of November. However, it is hard to believe that this wine was, just a few weeks earlier, a mere cluster of grapes hanging on a vine. These grapes, 100% Gamay incidentally, are harvested, rushed through a rapid fermentation (using the carbonic maceration method), and a speedy bottling to insure that they are ready to fly out the door in advance of their November release date. Thanks to brilliant marketing and sales savvy, by the time it is all said and done, over 65 million bottles of Beaujolais’ nouveau, nearly half of the region’s total annual production, will be distributed and drunk around the world. Such is the fever that has been created that it has become a worldwide race to be the first to serve to this new wine of the harvest. In doing so, it has been carried by motorcycle, balloon, truck, helicopter, Concorde jet, elephant, runners and rickshaws to get it to its final destination. So one would think that this stuff is good right? I mean if 65 million bottles are sold and people are lining up around the world, Well the truth is it is actually just a couple of notches up from battery acid, in my humble “everyman’s wine snob’ opinion. Furthermore it has been credited, rightly so, for giving the rest of the Beaujolais region, an undeserved, bad reputation.

Ok, enough about the French battery acid that is Beaujolais nouveau let me tell you about the oft sublime, low alcohol, fruit forward, food friendly, and 100% Gamay wines that are the Beaujolais –villages and Beaujolais Crus, and which I had occasion to sample at RN74 in San Francisco. I am SUPER excited about these wines, that’s right I am excited enough to spell out super in all caps. Each pairing was introduced by none-other then acclaimed Sommelier Rajat Parr, the wine director of Mina Group of restaurants. Raj paired the wines with Asian influenced French cuisine, here is my recap.

First Course

YUMM!

The Food:

Sautéed Pork Belly – Honshimeji Mushrooms, Leeks, Ginger, Barrel Aged Tamari. This was such an exquisite dish, and I am a sucker for Pork Belly! The Asian flavors just exploded in my mouth, and the texture of the Pork Belly was just incredible.

The Wines:

Domaine de Colette Beaujolais Villages 2009 – Wine was more extracted then I would have thought possible from Beaujolais, let alone a Villages level wine, it showed deep colors and aromas of ripe cherry, cranberry and strawberries. Less acid then I would have expected but the mouth feel offered a medium plus body, which was supple, round and nicely textured. Lacked acid to make it a perfect match for the Pork Belly, but nonetheless delicious!

Price at retail is $13 Score = B

Duboeuf Beajolais Villages 2009 – The initial aromatic impression of this wine was that of cotton candy and sweet fruit, which lead me to believe that this pairing was not going to work. However, I was wrong, the wine showed ripe flavors of blackberries, cherries, and cassis. The mouth feel was plush with primary sweet fruit juiciness and had enough acidity to pair beautifully with the dish. The acid and sweet fruit complimented the Asian spices and fattiness of Pork Belly. A home-run in my book.

Price at retail is $8 Score = A

Second Course

Heaven

The Food:

Roasted Quail- Chanterelle Mushrooms, Caramelized Onion, Burnt Orange. The Quail was out of this world good! It was tender and delicate and beautifully spiced.

The Wines:

Villa Ponciago “la Reserve” Fleurie 2009 – This was perhaps the most disappointing wine of the day. At first whiff I picked up a reductive quality and burnt rubber that overshadowed the muted fruit. In the mouth the wine showed good acid and simple red berry flavors. Overall a disappointment.

Price at retail is $15 Score = C-

Raosset Chiroubles 2009 – In a word Delicious! The nose is driven by primary fruit and floral aromas of violets, cherries, cranberries, and cotton candy. The palate shows medium plus acid, juiciness, low tannin, medium minus body, lower alcohol and a purity of bright fruit flavors consisting of red cherries, cranberries, canned apricots. It paired well with the delicateness of the Quail flavors and the acid extenuated the rich texture of the butter-roasted fowl.

Price at retail is $13 Score = B+

Raosset Grille Midi Fleurie 2009 – Another great example of what Beaujolais can be. This had richer fruit aromas then the previous wine offering up dark cherries, plums syrup, and sweet backing spice. The wine starts dry with a medium minus body, medium plus acid, balanced alcohol, and medium plus flavors cherries, flowers, spice, and green strawberries. This wine allowed the dish to shine while cleansing the palate with its refreshing acidity and lively fruit.

Price at retail is $20 Score = B+

Domaine Dupeuble 2009 – Described by Par as a wine designed for easy drinking, however I found it to offer some complexity not found in many wines at this price point. On the nose it showed aromas of laser sharp red berry fruit, candied cherries, violets, and cinnamon. The palate is concentrated (for a Beaujolais) with mouthwatering acid, supple tannins, medium body and flavors of sour cherries, raspberries, red and black current and caramelized sugar. The finish is complex and as delicious as the first sip.

Price at retail is $13 Score = A

Main Course

Fusion goodness!

The Food:

Braised Beef Short Ribs – Sour Cherry, Star Anise, Szechwan Pepper, Bone Marrow Dumplings. Another culinary stunner that offered tones of flavors, I loved this dish but wondered initially how the wines would hold up to this gustatory power play.

Maison Louis Tete “Les Charmeuse” Morgon 2009 – This was a wine had the most Pinot like quality of any of the wines I tasted in the lineup. The nose offered enticing aromas of nutmeg spice, cloves, violets, roses, and lots of juicy red fruit. The palate offered a medium body, medium plus acid, nice integrated tannin, and balance alcohol. The flavors here where more extracted then in previous wines, offering plums, black cherries, raspberries, underlain with earthy notes and spice. The finish offered both juicy acid and great complexity not usually seen in Beaujolais, even Rajat Parr agreed that it would be hard to peg this wine, in a blind tasting, as a Beaujolais rather then a Pinot from the Cote Chalonnaise. One of the surprise finds of the luncheon, and at the price point worth buying by the case!

Price at retail is $15 Score = A

Chateau Des Jacques Louis Jadot “Clos de Rochergres” Moulin-A-Vent 2009- Opening aromas of earth and some reductive qualities followed by a very muted nose, not at all what I expected from this wine. The palate impression revealed bright acid, slight oily texture with low tannin and medium minus alcohol. Fortunately the flavors were more impressive then the aromas, showing savory beef jerky, and tart mostly red fruit. The wine was a disappointment considering its reputation, provenance, and price point. It also did not stand up to the flavors of the food pairing when compared to the other wines.

Price at retail is $30 Score = C

Henry Fessy Moulin-A-Vent 2009- What the previous Moulin-A-Vent lacked this one made up for. The nose was a little muted but aromas of red cherries, blueberries, blackberries fought their way through. The palate showed bright acid, balanced alcohol, firm yet light tannin that gave this wine a medium body. Flavors of light oak, licorice, black currant, blackberries and cherries. The finish was complex and considerably lengthier then the previous wines. This is a true example of the wines that the Cru of Moulin-A-Vent is capable of producing.

Price at retail is $17 Score = A+

Like I said earlier this was a true religious awakening for me as I was reminded of what I had been missing for so long. Lower alcohol wines that are fun and don’t break the bank or your liver. I could now finally stop my very public bellyaching about how it is so hard to find red wines that offer lower alcohol, brighter acid, and food matching affinities. They have existed all along in the wines of Haut Beaujolais. They had merely been overshadowed by their battery acid cousin Beaujolais nouveau to the south and their regal cousin red Burgundy to the north. If you, like me, truly enjoy wines that compliment food, rather then dominant them then the Cru wines of Beaujolais deserve your earnest attention. You get a lot more bang for your buck from these wines then you ever would from similarly priced Pinot Noirs.

Say hello to the Motley Crus of Beaujolais and remember Wine is truly a journey of discovery not merely the destination of an empty bottle.

Easy, just buy a
bottle (or several) of Zinfandel. Invite over some friends, and enjoy great wine and company.

On the DAY
(that’s right the event lasts a whole 24 hours) of the event, gather your
bottle or bottles of Zinfandel, friends and enjoy. We have even set up a way
for you to organize your own TweetUp, MeetUp, or whateverUp event http://www.meetup.com/Zinfandel

If you are social
media inclined we recommend you participate and follow along by logging into
your favorite social media site and use the #zinfandel hash tag when posting
your comments about Zinfandel. You
can then also search the hash tag on social sites to see what other wine
drinkers are saying. If you are using Twitter we suggest using a Twitter
management software (We love both HootSuite,
and Tweetdeck but there are others) and
set up a search column for #Zinfandel,
which will be the hash tag you use to keep up with your fellow Zinfandel
drinkers from around the globe.

Of course you can
also join in via Facebook, Ustream or whatever other social media network you
love.

Not social media
inclined? Don’t worry the important thing is that you gather friends and enjoy
some great wine after all what is wine if not shared?

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/11/05/global-zinfandel-day-nov-19th/feed/1How to open a bottle of champagne with a swordhttp://blog.vintuba.com/2010/10/01/how-to-open-a-bottle-of-champagne-with-a-sword/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/10/01/how-to-open-a-bottle-of-champagne-with-a-sword/#commentsFri, 01 Oct 2010 16:12:08 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=2084Ever wonder how to impress the hell out of your friends?! Why with le sabrage of course! Le Sebrage is the art of opening a bottle of champagne (or any sparkling wine for that matter) with a sword. Teaching yourself to "behead" a bottle of champagne isn't hard, but takes a little practice (and a case or two of cheap bubbly) to perfect.

Ever wonder how to impress the hell out of your friends?! Why with le sabrage of course! Le Sebrage is the art of opening a bottle of champagne (or any sparkling wine for that matter) with a sword. Teaching yourself to “behead” a bottle of champagne isn’t hard, but takes a little practice (and a case or two of cheap bubbly) to perfect.

Here is a Vintuba a How-To

The result!

Obtain a bottle of chilled champagne that has not been shaken. It is best if the bottle has chilled in a cold refrigerator overnight. Some people additionally advise chilling the neck of the bottle in an ice-water bucket just before sabering.

Wipe away any moisture on the bottle with a napkin. Remove the foil from the top of the bottle. Unwrap and remove the wire cage from the bottle. Alternatively, to avoid the risk of the cork getting pushed out on its own prior to sabrage, loosen the wire cage and raise it up to the next level, then tighten it back down on the upper flanged end of the bottle.

Locate one of the seams on the bottle. This is where the two halves of the bottle join together.

Hold the bottle firmly and at a 45 degree angle upwards (pointed in a safe direction).

Lay the sword against the bottle. Put the back side of the sword (the blunt, non-cutting edge) towards the cork. Move the sword to the base of the neck, still keeping it flat against the bottle.

Slide the sword slowly and gently along the bottle back to the lip. This is to get a feel for the movement you will need to execute. Go back and forth lightly until you feel comfortable holding the sword to the bottle with this motion.

Firmly and quickly slide the knife down the seam, towards the lip that holds the cork. This should be one firm, continuous movement. Weak, unsure attempts often result in simply ricocheting off the top of the bottle. With the correct amount of pressure and the blade properly positioned (flat and on the seam), the lip of the bottle and the cork within should cleanly break off and go flying.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Crisp pancetta in a large Dutch oven over medium-low heat, until fat is rendered, about 10 minutes. Transfer pancetta to a plate using a slotted spoon.

Add onion to Dutch oven. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until caramelized, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a plate using a slotted spoon.

Season Pork with sea salt and pepper. Add oil to Dutch oven, and sear pork, fat side down, until golden, about 5 minutes. Flip over and repeat.

Add garlic and other spices to pot. Cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine, stock, pancetta, and onions; bring to a simmer. Transfer to oven, and braise pork, covered, basting every hour, until meat is falling off the bone, about 4 hours.

Remove meat and shred, drizzle with the warm simmer jus.

Polenta

Preheat oven to 300 degrees (same temp as for Braised pork.)

In a large, oven-safe saucepan heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the red onion and salt and sweat until the onions begin to turn translucent, approximately 4 to 5 minutes.

Reduce the heat to low, add the garlic, and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes, making sure the garlic does not burn.

Turn the heat up to high, add the chicken stock, bring to a boil.

Gradually add the cornmeal while continually whisking. Once you have added all of the cornmeal, cover the pot and place it in the oven.

Cook for 35 to 40 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes to prevent lumps. Once the mixture is creamy, remove from the oven and add the butter, salt, and pepper. Once they are incorporated, gradually add the Parmesan.

Serve as is

The Wine:

2009 Forefront Pinot Gris

95% Pinot Gris and 5% Gewürztraminer. Willamette Valley, Oregon

Price $16

The clear light yellow core gives way to a watery white rim. The nose is clean with medium intense bright youthful aromas of fresh green apple, white flowers, white peach and a hint of lemon zest. The initial sense on the palate is that the alcohol may be little out of balance but this gives way to medium acid and medium plus intense flavors of apple skin, peaches, citrus pith and a slight bitter almond note. The wine has a medium long finish that is punctuated by the wines fruit.

The Verdict on the pairing:

The Pinot Gris offered a very nice juxtaposition to the savory elements of the braised pork shoulder and to the creaminess of the polenta. The wines aromatics and flavors acted almost as a condiment to this already very flavorful dish. I found the wine to be a great alternative to red wine and just reinforces my firm believe that white wines tend to pair better with white meats then full-bodied reds.

Join in a global #CHAMPAGNE tasting with friends from around the globe!

You can partake in person or online, all you will need is a bottle of #champagne and a willingness to share your thoughts.

We think that life is worth celebrating with #Champagne, great friends, and great food every day, not just on October 28th.

So how do I take part in Champagne day?

Easy, just buy a bottle (or several) of Champagne (remember REAL Champagne comes only from the Champagne region of France). Invite over some friends, and enjoy the bubbles.

On the DAY (that’s right the event lasts a whole 24 hours) of the event, gather your champagne and friends and enjoy. We have even set up a way for you to organize your own MeetUp event http://www.meetup.com/Champagne-Day-Meetup/

If you are social media inclined we recommend you participate and follow along on Twitter by logging into your favorite Twitter management software (We love both HootSuite, and Tweetdeck but there are others) and set up a search column for #champagne, which will be the hashtag you use to keep up with your fellow Champagne drinkers from around the globe.

Of course you can also join in via Facebook, Ustream or whatever other social media network you love.

Not social media inclined? Don’t worry the important thing is that you gather friends and enjoy some great wine after all what is wine if not shared?

Do you have any food pairing suggestions?

Well heck yea we do! But we want to encourage you to be creative and blaze your own path. After all it is hard to go wrong with Champagne because of all the wines out there it is probably one of the most versatile wines for food.

If you still need some suggestions here you go.

Classics pairings would include:

Caviar

Lobster

Oysters

Sushi

Risotto

Popcorn and potato chips

Scrambled eggs

Any mushroom dish

Outside the box pairings:

Deep fried foods, such as fried chicken, french fries or calamari

Mexican food

Chocolate Covered Pretzels

Why are you organizing this?

To that we say why not? Our mission is to encourage people pause their hectic schedules, to take time to celebrate their lives, friends, and loved ones by enjoying the wonders of Champagne. We truly believe that Champagne is not just for special occasions such as New Year’s celebrations, weddings and the “special moments” in life. We DO belief that your life is worth celebrating more often.

We also hope to educate people on what makes Champagne unique. All Champagne is sparkling wine but not all sparkling wine is Champagne. Oh yea and we want to have some fun too!

Date and time:

Thursday October 28th 12:01 am to 12pm PST. We have chosen to make this a 24 hour event so that our friends from around the globe can participate.

In the immortal words of Madam Lily Bollinger:

“I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and I drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it, unless I’m thirsty.”

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/09/06/october-28th-2010-is-global-champagne-day/feed/0champagne day, #champagne, invitation, wine, chrisoJoin in a global #CHAMPAGNE tasting with friends from around the globe! - You can partake in person or online, all you will need is a bottle of #champagne and a willingness to share your thoughts. - We think that life is worth celebrating with #Champ...Join in a global #CHAMPAGNE tasting with friends from around the globe!
You can partake in person or online, all you will need is a bottle of #champagne and a willingness to share your thoughts.
We think that life is worth celebrating with #Champagne, great friends, and great food every day, not just on October 28th.vintuba.comno1:26You have to Albariño Crawl before you can walkhttp://blog.vintuba.com/2010/08/13/you-have-to-albarino-crawl-before-you-can-walk/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/08/13/you-have-to-albarino-crawl-before-you-can-walk/#commentsFri, 13 Aug 2010 21:59:53 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1952Imagine you were invited to a Pub crawl, only there was no beer and no Pub but in its place there was gourmet Tapas and Albariño, my kind of night!

And so starts a cool spring night in San Francisco where a collection of wine writers, bloggers, geeks, and PR professionals gathered to spoil themselves with great food and Rais Baixas’s top Albariños’ from the 2008 vintage. On the agenda were three diverse restaurants meant to highlight the varieties affinity with a diverse array of foods

Imagine you were invited to a Pub crawl, only there was no beer and no Pub but in its place there was gourmet Tapas and Albariño, my kind of night!

And so starts a cool spring night in San Francisco where a collection of wine writers, bloggers, geeks, and PR professionals gathered to spoil themselves with great food and Rais Baixas’s top Albariños’ from the 2008 vintage. On the agenda were three diverse restaurants meant to highlight the varieties affinity with a diverse array of foods. But before I fill you on the gustatorial highlights lets have a look at what makes these wines so unique.

The wines herald from Rías Baixas, pronounced ree-ahs-buy-shuss, which lies in the heart of Galicia a region in the northwestern corner of Spain right above Portugal. The area is known for being lush and green with many estuaries and beautiful coast lines said to be home to some of the most stunning beaches on the Iberian peninsula, all this is punctuated by a mild maritime climate. It is often said that it more resembles Ireland then Spain, it is thus fitting that the name Galicia is actually of Celtic origin. This is the coastal home of the Albariño grape, pronounced al-ba-ree-nyo, which is one of the main grapes that is responsible for the fabulously aromatic wines of Bias Baixas.

What makes this area so ideal for producing quality wines is it’s proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, which offers a cool climate with plenty of rain and sunshine all of which work in concert to produce wines with great acidity, wonderful aromatics, and lower alcohols, a welcome relief from some of the new world wines with low acid and high alcohol. Because of all the rain and humidity that the vines see they are trained using a version of the pergola system called parra whereby the vines are trained seven feet off the ground using wires and granite posts from which they are strung. This allows air to freely circulate which promotes even ripening while preventing mildew. There are some new vineyards that are opting for the more modern double cordon system that most people are used to seeing.

You will not find large swaths of vineyards owned by a few powerful land owners here, no sir, you see this area of about 8,650 acres has more than 6,500 growers and 20,000 individual plots under vine. All this fruit goes to about 198 wineries. We are talking freaking fragmented, right!?

The DO of Rias Baixas was created in 1988 and 99% of the wines produced are white. Differences in microclimates, terroir and grape varieties in the five sub-zones, as well as different winemaking techniques, make for wonderful diversity. Styles range from a crisp, aromatic “melony” character in Val do Salnés, to a peachier, softer style in O Rosal, and a less fruity and earthier style in Condado do Tea. Here are the five sub-zones:

Val do Salnés: This is the original and oldest sub-zone with the most area under vine and the highest concentration of wineries. Located on the Atlantic coast, it surrounds the historic town of Cambados. The soil is granitic and rocky with alluvial top-soil. It is also the coolest and wettest sub-zone with an average temperature of just 55º F. Val do Salnés is the birthplace of the Albariño grape.

Condado do Tea: “Tea County” is named after the river Tea, a tributary of the Miño River. Located in a fairly mountainous area along the Miño, this is the second largest sub-zone. The most inland, it is a warmer, drier area, with an average temperature of 59º F that can soar to 104 º F during the summer. Soils contain granite and slate.

O Rosal: Also lying along the Miño River where it joins the Atlantic Ocean, this sub-zone forms the border with Portugal. With granite bedrock and alluvial topsoil, the vineyards are terraced along the sides of the Miño.

Ribeira do Ulla: The newest Rías Baixas sub-zone, this area was registered in 2000 and is composed mostly of alluvial soil. It is located inland, southeast of Santiago de Compostela, and east of Padrón, a town famous for its small, green frying peppers, a popular tapa.

Soutomaior: Nestled in the hills at the head of the Rίa de Vigo, it is the smallest of the sub-zones and was registered in 1996. Soils are light and sandy over granite bedrock.

While the different sub-zones express subtle differences, the wines all share a number of characteristics. Pale golden lemon, they are all crisp, elegant and fresh. These wines are bone-dry and aromatic, packed with flavors of white peach, apricot, melon, pineapple, mango and honeysuckle. They share good natural acidity, have mineral overtones, and are medium bodied with moderate alcohol (12%).

While twelve grape varieties are permitted in the DO, the white Albariño grape represents 90% of all plantings. This small, thick-skinned white grape is perfectly adapted to the region’s growing conditions, making a wine high in acidity and full of flavor. If a wine is labeled Rías Baixas Albariño it must be 100% Albariño but grapes may be sourced from any or all of the sub-zones. Here is what you can expect from wines made from Albariño: aromas of honeysuckle, citrus, ripe melon, peach, pear, apricot, mango, and other exotic fruits. The aroma of the wine has even been likened to a green apple Jolly Rancher! If a wine is labeled just Rias Baixas it can be a blend of any of the following Albariño, Treixadura, Laureiro, Caiño Blanco, Torrontes, and Godello. Yumm right? These wines where purpose build for food, sea food to be more specific.

While most wines do not see oak, there is a move toward barrel fermentation using French, American and native Galician oak. Which in my opinion is a shame, why would you want to impart oak character on such a fantastically aromatic wine? There is also an increasing trend of putting the wines through full or partial malolactic fermentation. This is done in an effort to impart a creamier, fuller character, the believe being that this enables the wines to age gracefully.

Ok enough with the geek report here is what went down, literally, that night in April.

Stop Uno

The Place:

Anchor & Hope, 83 Minna Street San Francisco- Describes itself as “a little East Coast formal and West Coast casual… a cross-country take on a seafood shack”

The Foods:

Oysters on the half shell, crispy french fries, poached egg and asparagus salad.

The Wines:

2008 Paco & Lola Albariño, $22

2008 Rosalia di Castro Albariño, $18

The Verdict:

The food was a great complimented to the wine and really highlighted the acid, citrus, and stone fruit characters f both wines. I found the 2008 Rosalia di Castro Albariño to be more representative of the style for the region. It showed good peach, apricot, white flower aromas backed by flavors of minerality, green apples and orange zest. It was refreshing, balanced and exhibited good texture.

Stop Dos

The Place:

La Mar, Embarcadero Pier 1 1/2 San Francisco – “Inspired by the thousands of cebicherías found throughout Peru, La Mar cebichería peruana was created as an attempt to … preserve one of the best guarded treasures of Peruvian cuisine: cebiche”

The food was out of this world and some of the best seafood I have had in a long time. The cebiche dishes contained a lot of citrus acid and required a wine that could compliment the tropical flavors of the food. The stand out from this stop was clearly the 2008 Laxas Albariño It showed intense fresh aromas of apples, citrus fruits and apricots. On the palate, the typical freshness and glyceric fullness of the Albariño predominated, tropical zesty fruits of pineapples, melons, grapefruit and citrus with a well-balanced acidity, complimenting the wine’s body and structure. The 2008 Cambiata Albariño was the only wine not actually from Rias Biaxas, in fact it comes from Monterey California, and I think must have been chosen to prove that the best Albariños do come from Galicia Spain!

Stop Tres

Photo Credit: Deborah Parker-Wong of The Tasting Panel

The Place:

B44, 44 Belden Place San Francisco – A true Spanish restaurant that serves up some of the best Catalan food in San Francisco.

The food here was so authentic to the Catalan region of northeastern Spain it brought me back to my younger days where my family would spend the summers on the Cataln coast. The food again is seafood focused and just screams for wines with some refreshing acidity. 2008 Santiago Ruiz was not only the stand out of this stop, but it was the hands down winner of the night. It was the only wine of the night that was not 100% Albariño, it is in fact a blend of 70% Albariño, 15% Loureiro, 10% Treixadura, 5% Caino and Godello.Perhaps this is why the wine showed more complexity and character then the other wines. Aromas of lime, green apple, peach, wet rock are supported by flavors of lemon meringue, melon, white peach and a hint of saltines. The fruit, acid, and alcohol were in perfect balance and the wine finished fresh. There was not a dish that was not made better by this wine. A classic!

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/08/13/you-have-to-albarino-crawl-before-you-can-walk/feed/4Podcast 23-Value from Bordeauxhttp://blog.vintuba.com/2010/07/30/podcast-23-value-from-bordeaux/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/07/30/podcast-23-value-from-bordeaux/#commentsSat, 31 Jul 2010 00:49:17 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1889We are particularly excited about this podcast because we get to discuss a topic that is not usually associated with this region, and that is value. Join us as we taste through 3 wines; a white, rose, and red wine from the broader appellations of Bordeaux. All of the wines we taste are in the sub $15 range and deliver on the promise of good QPR (quality price ratio).

After much delay, JonM and I (ChrisO) finally mustered the courage to put our wine drinking mugs in front of the microphone to record this latest Bordeaux podcast. We are particularly excited about this podcast because we get to discuss a topic that is not usually associated with this region, and that is value. Join us as we taste through 3 wines; a white, rose, and red wine from the broader appellations of Bordeaux. All of the wines we taste are in the sub $15 range and deliver on the promise of good QPR (quality price ratio).

This is also the show where we introduce our new rating system meant to make it easy for you to keep track of what we thought about the wines we swirl, sip and occasionally spit. We update you on what is happening in the vineyards in northern California and of course talk wine. Make sure and listen to the whole podcast because we have introduced a new segment called Wine Snob’s Trivia. Get the answer right and we could clothe you in some Vintuba Haute Couture. Post the answer to the question either on our Facebook fan page or on the discussion section of the blog post (make sure to include the keyword SNOB ANSWER). Answer the question correctly and be entered into a drawing to win free Vintuba SWAG!

And now for you true wine geeks who want to read my ramblings, thoughts, opinions, and free advice or for those of you who are eager to acquire some nugget of information about Bordeaux that you can use to impress the hell out of your date, boss or neophyte wine friends (like JonM), its time to read on… (disclaimer the following my be considered a homeopathic cure for insomnia)

So what and where the hell is Bordeaux? Let me address the where part first: Bordeaux is a region located on the west coast of France along the Gironde river and it also happens to be largest producer of French AC (appellation controlee)

Our Three Value Bordeaux sub $15

wine. It produces a staggering 75+ million cases of wine in an average year, that’s 900 million bottles Vintuba peeps! In comparison, the number of cases of Napa Valley wine produced annually is 9.2 million; that’s 110 million bottles. Bordeaux produces large quantities of everyday wine, as well as some of the most expensive wines of the world. Included among the latter are the area’s five ‘premier cru’ (first growth) red wines (four from Médoc and one, Château Haut-Brion, from Graves) — check out the map for more detail. These 5 first growths were established by the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855: Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Haut-Brion, Château Mouton-Rothschild. These Chateaux wines fetch hundreds of dollars per bottle upon release, not exactly value wines unless your Bill Gates or Jay-Z but in actuality these prestigious châteaux represent only a very small fraction of total wine production.

So you can see from the sheer volume that Bordeaux produces it has to be quite big right? So here is a little more info on the geographic area: the wine districts of Bordeaux are marked by a huge estuary and its rivers; the Gironde river, which flows into the Atlantic ocean and splits the region into what is often referred to as the Left & Right banks. The Gironde is actually formed by the convergence of two other rivers that flow from the east, the Garonne & Dardogne, it is between these two rivers where the large are of Entre-Deux-Mers is located, it is this area that is responsible for much of the value and volume production of Bordeaux AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur AOC, and Bordeaux Clairet AOC.

Are you confused yet? Well quite frankly so am I, especially considering that I am writing this after having tried several glasses of the region’s wines. So let me attempt to clarify a little more… In the Bordeaux wine region there are a number of Regional Appellations d’origine contrôlées (AOCs) that may be used throughout the entire region of Bordeaux. The production area allowed to use these AOC covers the entire region, including those areas which also have access to more geographically delineated prestigious AOCs, such as Margeaux, Paulliac, St-Estephe, et all. So in other words, the wine can come from almost anywhere with in the boundaries on the map below. Think of it in terms of Napa Valley, meaning there are wines that state only Napa Valley on the label that can contain grapes sourced from any part of the region, and then there are other wines that list the specific subregion on the label like Carneros, Rutherford, or Spring Mountain. Wines labeled as such must contain fruit grown specifically in those areas. Sure hope that last part helped…

Click to enlarge

The regional AOC of the Bordeaux region are Bordeaux AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux Clairet, Bordeaux Rosé, Bordeaux Sec and Bordeaux Moelleux. These represent the basic level of red, rosé and white wines (dry and sweet) of the region, and represent the largest production volume among the AOC wines of Bordeaux. These AOCs are often called generic because they do not indicate a specific subregion or commune within Bordeaux as the source of the wine. Large parts of the Bordeaux region can only use the generic appellations. As stated above, most Bordeaux AOC is produced within the Entre-Deux-Mers subregion. (For its exact location, reference the map above). It is ironic but true that even the most basic of Bordeaux AOC’s have the right to display the text Grand Vin de Bordeaux – Great wine of Bordeaux. Warning, don’t be fooled into thinking that this is in any way a statement of quality, just like “reserve” on a bottle of California wine it has no legal requirement and therefore means absolutely nothing.
So here is what you can infer when you see the following AOC’ s listed on a label of Bordeaux wines:

Bordeaux AOCWine style
Most are, red and dry white. They tend to be simple and fruity everyday wines that are meant for early consumption rather than cellaring. More impressive reds tend to be sold as Bordeaux Supérieur AOC (see below). You will not see sweet white wines or rosés labeled as Bordeaux AOC, as they are relegated to use other generic appellations with in the greater Bordeaux area.
Having said what I said above, I am now going to tell you about some notable exceptions to the general rule of Bordeaux AOC, that all wines tend to be simple; there are some dry white wines produced in Médoc and Sauternes (regions known for their high-priced wines), and labeled Bordeaux AOC because the aforementioned AOC’s are reserved for the production of respectively red and sweet wines. Thus, some very prestigious and expensive dry white wines, such as Château Margaux’s Pavillon Blanc and Château d’Yquem’s “Y” have to be classified as “simple” Bordeaux AOCs. Are you catching on? No well just wait…Grape varieties
For red wines, the most planted grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Cabernet Franc is not as common but also authorized. Petit Verdot and Malbec are scarce.
For white wines, Sauvignon blanc, Sémillon, and Sauvignon Gris each represent 42% of the vineyard surface and Muscadelle 9%. Other permitted grape varieties are Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Merlot Blanc, Ondenc and Mauzac.

Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
The Bordeaux supérieur appellation covers the same geographic area as Bordeaux AOC. However, the wine in this appellation is produced by older vines. Moreover, Bordeaux supérieur wines must be raised at least for twelve months before they can be sold and has a higher minimum level of alcohol. One could infer that these wines tend to be a little more expressive than regular Bordeaux AOC wine (the notable exception excluded of course)Grape varieties
The authorized grape varieties are the same as Bordeaux AOC

Bordeaux Clairet AOC
Here is where I lost my co-host JonM so stay sharp! Bordeaux clairet is another generic AOC for the Bordeaux defined as “clairet”. All other appellations in the Bordeaux region, including the most prestigious ones, are entitled to produce under this AOC. Bordeaux clairet is a wine which can either be described as a dark rosé wine or a light-colored red wine. As there is also a more commonly used Bordeaux rosé designation, Bordeaux clairet is not simply any rosé from Bordeaux.

Fun Fact-Bordeaux clairet wines are similar in color to the wines which were shipped from Bordeaux to England during the Middle Ages, known as French Claret. These wines established the fame of Bordeaux as a wine-making region, and led to the (primarily British) practice of referring to Bordeaux as “claret”. They are refreshing wines, appreciated because they can be easily enjoyed with picnics or exotic food.

Grape varieties
The authorized grape varieties are the same as red Bordeaux AOC although Merlot is the most common of this AOC.Challenges!

As you can see this is complicated stuff and I think it represents one of the many reasons why the trade organization, retailers, and chateaux themselves are having a hard time getting these wine into the hands of thirsty consumers. The modern-day consumer, of value wines, has been trained to pick up a bottle and buy it based on the variety listed on the label or worse yet by the picture of the critter on the bottle. We have become a public used to, initially at least, judging a book, or wine, by its cover or label. Come on admit it you have been guilty of this at some point! Most consumers do not want a wine mystery or adventure when it comes to plopping down their hard-earned $5-15 on a wine, they want safe! in other words, consumers seek easily identified varieties listed on the front label, these labels, incidentally, most also be visually appealing, the back label must be packed with information on how the wine was made and detailed instruction on how, when and with what to consume it. Do I sound bitter yet? As proof to support my Everyman’s wine snob ramblings I give you the result of my very unscientific survey that I took on our Facebook fan page. I asked the following question “How important is a wine label that lists the grape variety to you? Are you less likely to purchase a wine that does not list the grape composition?” here are some of the responses:

“More information the better. Shows they are serious about the wine”

“I like to know what’s in the bottle before I buy. Less inclined to buy mystery wines and blends.”

I think the trade organizations that represent these Bordeaux regional AOC see the challenge and are starting to get proactive in trying to increase awareness among value driven consumers, they are using social media channels, check out the following links for examples:

They are enlisting fellow bloggers like my friend DrXeno to conduct live video tastings, and using cute names like “Le Wine Buff” . During these regularly scheduled live tasting you can interact and ask questions about wines to the Bordeaux imbibing man or women in front of the camera. I am also told that Planet Bordeaux , the organization that supplied samples for this story, will be revamping their website to appeal to the value driven american consumer and will also be launching a Twitter TasteLive event very soon so stay tuned.

I for one am a big fan of these wines, regardless of how they are labeled or marketed, as they represent a refreshing alternative to some of the new world drivel that is available at the same price point. These are wines that do not cloud themselves in a sea of oak chips, de-alcoholization, acidification or other more new fangled wine making techniques. They are fresh, refreshing, good with food, sometime a little dirty and funky, and never apologetic and I like that. They are worth a try if for no other reason than because you can afford to at these price points. Who knows you may find that taking the plunge into the deep end of the ambiguous wine label pool is actually fun and refreshing!

So my dear regional Bordeaux AOC friends, I see there being a tough road ahead for you in the U.S. market, but you’re making some great efforts. This is not to say that you should give up, especially if you keep making wines that are as good a value as the three wines that JonM and I tried for this podcast. Perhaps you could develop your own critter label to appeal to the masses, may I suggest a Badger or a Duckbilled Platypus? Can you tell I work in marketing?

Sauvignon Blanc & Gris blend

Here are my (ChrisO’s) tasting notes on the wines we tried.

2009 Chateau Pierrail Bordeaux AOC
(Sauvignon Blanc & Sauvignon Gris)

Nice bright lemon color with a nose that showed medium plus intense aromas of grapefruit, lemon and orange zest, green apple and some wet river rocks. Mouthfeel was balanced with good bright acid and flavors of green apples, bitter oranges and ruby grapefruit. The finish was medium in length but simple. I detected slight bitter notes on the finish.

Bright ruby-red core that fades to a strawberry red at the edge of the glass. Medium intense youthful aromas of citrus, strawberries, rhubarb, sour cherries and dried herbs. The palate opens with a burst of fresh acid that is balanced by the youthful flavors of cherries, strawberries, some herbaceous notes and slight phenolic character (usually imparted by skin or stem contact). The Finish was medium in length and showed some unexpected complexity. This is an amazing value and just screams to be had with food, my recommendation would be BBQ’d meats from the grill or a nice Mediterranean antipasti platter with fresh charcuterie.

Deep ruby-red in color with medium intense developing aromas of wet earth, mulberries (aka large European blue berries), Cremé de Cassis, licorice, and hints of vanilla bean. The tannins are grippy and spicy and the alcohol and acid well-balanced. The wine is medium bodied and offers some nice textural experiences but lacks something on the mid-palate. The flavors are of Blackcurrant, plums, Mulberries, coffee and mocha. The finish is medium in length with some complexity.
Drink now or over next 2-3 years

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/07/30/podcast-23-value-from-bordeaux/feed/4AOC,Bordeaux,Bordeaux AOC,Bordeaux Clairet AOC,Bordeaux Supérieur AOC,Cabernet Franc,Cabernet Sauvignon,Chateau de Fontenille,Chateau Lamothe Vincent “Heritage”,Chateau Pierrail,Merlot,NapaWe are particularly excited about this podcast because we get to discuss a topic that is not usually associated with this region, and that is value. Join us as we taste through 3 wines; a white, rose, and red wine from the broader appellations of Bo...We are particularly excited about this podcast because we get to discuss a topic that is not usually associated with this region, and that is value. Join us as we taste through 3 wines; a white, rose, and red wine from the broader appellations of Bordeaux. All of the wines we taste are in the sub $15 range and deliver on the promise of good QPR (quality price ratio).Vintuba LLCnoOn the Verge at Hospice du Rhone 2010http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/06/19/on-the-verge-at-hospice-du-rhone-2010/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/06/19/on-the-verge-at-hospice-du-rhone-2010/#commentsSat, 19 Jun 2010 18:06:04 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1864ChrisO interviews Jay Kell from Verge Winery at the 2010 Hospice du Rhone Grand Tasting. Find out what this wine has in common with Queen Latifah and Burning Man.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/06/19/on-the-verge-at-hospice-du-rhone-2010/feed/1Verge, Wine, Syrah, Interview, VintubaChrisO interviews Jay Kell from Verge Winery at the 2010 Hospice du Rhone Grand Tasting. Find out what this wine has in common with Queen Latifah and Burning Man.ChrisO interviews Jay Kell from Verge Winery at the 2010 Hospice du Rhone Grand Tasting. Find out what this wine has in common with Queen Latifah and Burning Man.Vintuba.comno3:40Protect your right to choose!!! Stop H.R. 5034http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/04/20/protect-your-right-to-choose-stop-h-r-5034/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/04/20/protect-your-right-to-choose-stop-h-r-5034/#commentsWed, 21 Apr 2010 03:46:41 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1780Help us stop HR 5034, a bill submitted to the House of Representatives in Washington DC. HR 5034 is a bill that threatens to end direct shipping of wine from wineries to consumers.

It is an act of anti-commerce and fear mongering by wine wholesalers and distributors. Contact your representative to vote NO on HR 5034.

Help us stop HR 5034 a bill submitted to the House of Representatives in Washington DC. HR 5034 is a bill that threatens to end direct shipping of wine from wineries to consumers. It is an act of anti-commerce and fear mongering by wine wholesalers and distributors. Contact your representative to vote NO on HR 5034.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/04/20/protect-your-right-to-choose-stop-h-r-5034/feed/2Vintuba TV- Annual Life Cycle of the Vinehttp://blog.vintuba.com/2010/04/11/vintuba-tv-bud-break/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/04/11/vintuba-tv-bud-break/#commentsSun, 11 Apr 2010 19:54:12 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1751FYI not your plumbers Bud break either:
Contrary to popular believe not all the action in the winemaking process happens in the cellar, some of the most fascinating activity takes place in the vineyard throughout the four seasons. Take a quick look at this short video on the life cycle of the vine so that you can better understand what is going on in the vineyards year round. For more detailed info see below:

Contrary to popular believe not all the action in the winemaking process happens in the cellar, some of the most fascinating activity takes place in the vineyard throughout the four seasons. Take a quick look at this short video on the life cycle of the vine so that you can better understand what is going on in the vineyards year round. For more detailed info see below:

Winter Dormancy

Winter Dormancy

After the first cold nights during fall, the vine will go into a deep state of dormancy. Experiments on vines revealed that the artificial breaking of this dormancy would result in a very uneven shoot of the buds. At this stage it is very hardy and can withstand temperatures as low as -15 °C (-5 °F). During the growing season however it can only handle temperatures of no lower than -2 °C (28 °F).

At the end of dormancy winter pruning takes place to make room for new shoot growth.

Weeping (aka bleeding)

This is the precursor to all of the vine’s growth during the coming season.

As the ground temperature begins to warm up again the heat will begin to penetrate several inches into the soil. When the temperature rises to 10°C (50°F) at depth of about 31 cm (12 inches), the vine begin to wake from dormancy.

The roots begin to absorb water and nutrients. If the vine was pruned during winter dormancy than the start of this cycle is signaled by a weeping of the vine. This weeping occurs when the soil begins to warm and the force of osmosis pushes the sap up from the root system of the vine and it is expelled from the cuts (or “wounds”) left over from the pruning. During this period a single vine can “weep” up to 5 litres (1.3 gallons) of water.

This sap provides energy for the upcoming growing season. This means that the vine is preparing itself for bud break which is the next step in the cycle.

Bud break

Bud break

In the Northern Hemisphere, bud break begins around March or April while in the Southern Hemisphere it begins around September or October depending on weather conditions.

The soil temperature and grape variety both have an impact on the timing of this event. Vines that grow in warmer soils will begin to bud earlier than those grown in cooler soils. The heat retention qualities of the soil are instrumental. Cooler soils that are more compact and thus take more time to warm-up, like clay, will delay bud break, while rockier more arid, warmer soils that allow heat to more easily penetrate will accelerate the process. The particular grape variety of course will also have an impact on when bud break occurs.

If bud break comes too early, the young shoots may be vulnerable to frost damage during spring. However, if bud break happens too late, the grapes may not have enough time to fully ripen, not usually a problem in the climates like Napa, Barossa, or Languedoc, however in cool climates frost and rain at the end of the growing season will damage the crop.

Flowering

Flowering

Flowering usually starts 40-80 days after bud break, depending on the temperature. Small flower clusters appear on the tips of the young shoots and look similar to small buttons. Flowering can only occur when average daily temperatures stay between 15–20 °C (59–68 °F) which in the Northern Hemisphere usually occurs in May and south of the equator around November. A few weeks after the initial clusters appear, the flowers grow in size with individual flowers becoming visible. It is during this stage of flowering that the pollination of the grapevine occurs resulting in grape berries with 1-4 seeds.

Most Vitis vinifera grape vines are hermaphroditic, meaning they posses both male stamens and female ovaries, allowing them to self-pollinate.

The vines are very susceptible to weather swings when pollination is happening. Various methods are used to prohibit frost damage including wind creation using fans, helicopters, smudge pots and sprinklers.

Fruit Set

Fruit Set

Fruit Set follows flowering almost immediately. In the Northern Hemisphere, this will takes place in May and in November in the Southern Hemisphere. At this stage the grape flesh and skin tannins begin to develop.

Fruit Set is a very critical stage since it determines the potential crop yield. Not every flower on the vine gets pollinated, with the un-pollinated flowers eventually falling off. The percentage of flowers that are pollinated is usually around 30%, however in some instances it can be much lower, it can also get as high as 60%. Climate and the health of the vine play an important role with low humidity, high temperatures and water stress having the potential of severely reducing the amount flowers that get pollinated.

Veraison

Veraison

This stage signals the beginning of the ripening process and normally occurs around 40-50 days after fruit set. In the Northern Hemisphere this is usually at the end of July and or beginning of August and between the end of January or beginning of February for the Southern Hemisphere

This is the period during which the grape changes appearance: in black varieties the color of the skins take on the blackish appearance, and in white grapes the skins become more translucent. At this time in the development of the grape it changes and the sugar starts to accumulate at a high rate, pushing down the acid levels simply by dilution Leaves are often pruned at this time to give grapes more sun and wind exposures.

The onset of veraison does not occur uniformly among all berries. Typically the berries and clusters that are most exposed to warmth, on the outer extents of the canopy, undergo veraison first with the berries and clusters closer to the trunk and under the canopy shade undergoing it last. There are some factors in the vineyards that can control the onset of veraison, limited water stress and canopy management that creates a high “leaf to fruit” ratio can encourage veraison.

Harvest

Harvest

Traditionally harvest occurred 100 days after flowering, but in modern winemaking the winemaker and/or vineyard manager ultimately make the decision. The right moment for picking depends on the balance between sugar and acids, however this balance will depend on the style of wine being produced. A date is selected based on the grape variety as well as sugar and acid levels in the grape. Testing for the latter two variables is frequent in the final weeks and days. Here it is in GEEK SPEAK:

Vitis Vinifera varieties are normally harvested at 19-25 degrees Brix, over .7% acidity and with a pH of less than 3.4. Random samples of grapes are checked in the laboratory leading up to harvest.

This being said, there is no substitute for actually tasting the grapes and wine makers rely on their taste buds over technical data.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/04/01/vintuba-tv-decanting-wine/feed/6wine, decanting, napa, chriso, vintubaEver wondered why and when you should decant a wine? Check out our latest video and find out.Ever wondered why and when you should decant a wine? Check out our latest video and find out.vintuba.comno5:30We’re bringing Malbec back… a Cahors story.http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/03/28/we%e2%80%99re-bringing-malbec-back%e2%80%a6-a-cahors-story/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/03/28/we%e2%80%99re-bringing-malbec-back%e2%80%a6-a-cahors-story/#commentsSun, 28 Mar 2010 20:59:10 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1721We’re brining Malbec back. Them Argentines don’t know how where its at. Mendoza let us make up for the things you lack. (Sung to the tune of Justin Timberlake’s “Sexy Back”)

If you think you know Malbec and have not yet tasted the Malbec based wines from Cahors, you have missed out.

We’re brining Malbec back. Them Argentines don’t know how where it’s at. Mendoza let us make up for the things you lack. (Sung to the tune of Justin Timberlake’s “Sexy Back”)

If you think you know Malbec and have not yet tasted the Malbec based wines from Cahors, you have missed out.

First a little background on the region of Cahors. Cahors is located in the Quercy district in the southwest of France on the Lot River, just southeast of Bordeaux. The AOC (Appellation d’origine contrôlé) of Cahors was created in 1971, however the wines of Cahors have a rich history that date back to the 13th century when it was commonly referred to as “the Black Wine” by it’s British consumers. The region fell out of favor with the Brits after the Hundred Years War when a mandate in 1373 offered an advantage to the wines produced along the Gironde river (aka Bordeaux region). But today Cahors is waking up to the wine world once again and producing wines that while be sure to grab the attention of wine drinkers who enjoy deep rich bold wines. Not to mention they are taking advantage of the Malbec craze created by Argentina.

Vineyards of Cahors

Cahors is the home of Malbec in France with about 4,500 hectares of the total 5,000 hectares of planted. It’s role in Bordeaux was greatly diminished by the frost of 1956 where 70% of the Malbec vines perished. It can still be found on a very limited basis in Bordeaux, however the plantings are minuscule compared to Cahors. The wines of Cahors must be based on a minimum of 70% Malbec (locally referred to as Côt or Auxerrois) with additions of up to 30% of either Merlot or Tannat or a proportion of both. Absolutely no Cabernet Sauvignon or Franc is allowed. In my most recent tasting, I found plenty examples of 100% Malbecs, however these differ quite significantly stylistically from the Malbec’s produced in Argentina.

The vines of Cahors are planted either on the causes, the arid limestone plateau where thin topsoil predominates, or on the coteaux – the sand and gravel terraces located between the plateau and the river; both areas are iron-rich and the fruit often blended, both being believed to yield good quality wines. Conventional thinking states the wines made from grapes grown on the causses are best for long-term aging while the wines made from grapes grown in the coteaux are for earlier drinking. Personally I have not seen such evidence in my tastings.

The region’s weather is influenced by both the Mediterranean and Atlantic oceans and the winters are colder than in Bordeaux to the northwest. A drying wind prevents rot and while spring frost can be a danger, it tends to be a bigger threat to crops other than grapes. Drought can be a problem on the plateau.

Most wines are now fermented without their stalks, although stalks were once a common inclusion for wines made from plateau grapes; this contributed to the reputation of plateau grapes as more tannic. Typically the grape varietals are fermented separately and blended after malolactic fermentation. Concrete fermentation vessels are the norm, many with temperature control, however I spoke to several wine makers who told me they were using open top oak fermentors. Maceration times and oak application vary. Better wines are oak-aged, and some are very similar to Argentine Malbecs most however are totally different (see tasting notes below).

Maximum yields for basic Cahors are 50 hl/ha, with a minimum alcohol content of 10.5%. However, to have the term “Excellence” added to the label, the wine must be unchaptalized (no sugar added during fermentation) and come from 8+ year old vines, with a maximum yield of 40 hl/ha and a minimum alcohol content of 12%.

Wondering where the term “Black Wine” comes from? Well back in the good old days of the Middle Ages, the wine makers strived to make the wine more concentrated by heating some of the grape must in big cauldrons and reducing it down. Not to worry this is no longer practiced, however the wines continue to be very deep in color and earthy goodness.

The wines of Cahors distinguish themselves from Argentinean Malbecs in that they dent to exhibit much firmer, if not down right grippy,

Saucissons Sec at Cahors Market

tannins, minerality, and higher acidity, this gives them the advantage over Argentina in the area of aging and food friendliness. I also found them to be more complex with a slight rustic edge then the highly polished silky Malbecs from Mendoza, which I refer to as “pop and drop” Malbecs. It all comes down to personal preference however. I for one find the Cahors wines to be more my style. They remind me of the Rolling Stones while Argentinean Malbecs remind me of Coldplay. Both good but I will take the classic Stones every time!

Here are some of the most common descriptors that I associate with Cahors Malbecs

You may get totally different aromas and taste and that is awesome! Remember find your own path and enjoy the journey. Just like every photographer takes a unique and different picture of the same subject so it is with wine and its taster.

My top recommendations from a recent tasting I attended in San Francisco: (warning not all of these wines are available in the US yet, but when they are I would highly recommend buying them.)

Aromas of fresh ground coffee beans, tobacco, and menthol with a layer of black fruit. Good acid structure gives lift to the fruit component. Well integrated ripe tannins. Flavors of smoke, coffee, dark chocolate, vanilla and cassis. Elegant long complex finish. Yet another example of how well these wines can age.

Aromas of sea salt and pepper, dark berry fruit, truffles and menthol some sage brush. Flavors of earth, black cherries, vanilla, and oak spice. Chalky tannins with medium plus acid that lends a nice structure to the wine. Another wine with a long finish.

Coffee, clove and liquored cherries on the nose. With flavors of oak char, chocolate, blueberries and cherries. Lower acid then previous wines but good tannin integration gives the wine some structure. Overall very balanced wine.

Lots of coffee on the nose, leather, tobacco and blackberry compote. Big structured tannins that are very grippy. Explosive black fruit backed by coffee and dark chocolate with clove and vanilla. This is a huge wine with an almost endless finish. Not sure how food friendly this would be.

So there you have it! I have to say that Cahors Malbecs are a very nice counterpoint to the Malbecs from Argentina. My next mission is a side-by-side comparison of the two. Now it’s your turn, run out buy some Cahors Malbecs and have at it.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/03/28/we%e2%80%99re-bringing-malbec-back%e2%80%a6-a-cahors-story/feed/10Alto Adige this is the way we Südtirolhttp://blog.vintuba.com/2010/03/14/alto-adige-this-is-the-way-we-sudtirol/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/03/14/alto-adige-this-is-the-way-we-sudtirol/#commentsMon, 15 Mar 2010 01:26:57 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1677Alto Adige/Südtirol meet wine lover, wine lover meet Alto Adige (aka Südtirol). Now the two of you may not have ever met before or perhaps you just met in passing, but it’s about time you get to know each other better! That is why I am so excited to be writing this post. You see I love introducing you to new things. Now you may be saying, wait a minute, Alto Adige is not a new thing, and you would be right, but what is new is the newfound passion for producing fresh vibrant white wines and deep inky reds from both local and international varieties.

Alto Adige/Südtirol meet wine lover, wine lover meet Alto Adige (aka Südtirol). Now the two of you may not have ever met before or perhaps you just met in passing, but it’s about time you get to know each other better! That is why I am so excited to be writing this post. You see I love introducing you to new things. Now you may be saying, wait a minute, Alto Adige is not a new thing, and you would be right, but what is new is the newfound passion for producing fresh vibrant white wines and deep inky reds from both local and international varieties.

Recently I was invited to attend a trade tasting put on by EOS (aka Export Organization South Tyrol), sounds romantic doesn’t it? Anyway what I found was some great wine.

Before we get to my top picks lets review a little more info about the region.

Alto Adige (aka Südtirol for you German speakers) is the northern most province of Italy, an area bordering the Southern Alps of the Austrian Tyrol and known for its contrasts of Palm trees and snowy Alpine peaks. This area of Italy was until as recently as World War 1, part of the Austrian Empire, hence the predominance of German-speaking locals and the use of German names. Alto Adige winegrowing history is said to date back as far as 3,000 years. Now that sure the heck beats the pants off of anything we Americans have to offer in the way of wine history.

The geography of this region of Italy is mountainous to say the least with about 86% of the total area lying above 3,300 feet (1,000 meters). The valley floors make up a scant 4% of the area. If one is to look at a map you would notice that the valleys follow the Adige and Isarco rivers south from the Alps to Bolzano where they converge to form a Y-shaped growing area that is Alto Adige. The Alps to the north protect the grapevines from the cold north winds. While at the southern end of the region the valley opens up allowing warm, humid air masses from Lake Garda to the east and the Mediterranean Sea to the west to influence the area resulting in a Mediterranean growing climate for the vines. There are however many varied mesoclimates owing to the subdivisions of the valley landscape, differing aspects and altitudes of vineyards (between 600 and 3,000 feet or 200 to 1,000 meters). For example the warm summer air accumulates in the Bolzano basin while in the Isarco Valley to the northeast are more influenced by cool alpine air.

As you can imagine soil plays an equally important role in this area that was formed by volcanic, tectonic and glacier activity. The soils consist of gravel subsoil on the slopes of the mountains and alluvial soil on the valley floor. Add to this the primitive rock such as granite, slate, limestone, gneiss and porphyry and you have almost ideal conditions for the production of world-class wines.

So needless to say this is a region that has a lot going for it as far as wine production is concerned.

Here is a break down of the most important sub regions with in Alto Adige:

Map of Alto Adige

Bassa Atesina- located at the base of the y shaped valley along the eastern banks of the Adige River. It is influenced by Lake Garda and late-ripening varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot tend to produce the best wines from this region.

Oltradige- located northeast of Bassa Atesina on the western bank of the Adige River. Here the gentile hills around Lake Caldaro are best suited for the Schiava grape (more on this grape later). The best whites from this area come from the foot of the Mendoal mountains.

Bolzano- located around of the town of the same name, just northeast of where the rivers Adige and Isarco converge. This warm valley basin is the home to Lagrein (a grape) and Santa Maddelena (a wine).

Merano- Region located around the town of Merano where the Adige river turns west. This almost idyllic landscape produces some elegant wines.

Isarco Valley- Region to the northeast of Bolzano, it straddles both banks of the Isarco river. Home to such grapes as Mueller-Thurgau, Sylvaner and Kerner which produce pure acid driven white wines.

Val Venosta- Located on the banks of the Adige river at the base of the Italian Alps. Wines from this region tend to be mineral-rich and indicative of their growing conditions.

Production is dominated by fifteen cooperative wineries that produce 70% of the regions wine. The remaining 30% is produced by independent wineries and winegrowers.There are 20 grape varieties that make their home in Alto Adige, all thanks to the variety of terrior it offers. Lets take a look at the main players. There is no other region in Italy that offers such a wide variety of white wines.

The trend here is twofold:

1) Focus on autochtonous varieties such as Lagrein and Gewürztraminer. The one grape in decline is Schiava, whose plantings have decreased by double-digit percentages. Perhaps because the wines produced by this red variety are not in keeping with the continued international trend for fuller bodied, darker, tannic red wines.

2) The new focus on international varieties, especially aromatic whites. Intensely aromatic varieties such as Sauvignon and Kerner are gaining significance, while the role of Pinot Bianco is decreasing. As far as red varieties are concerned Pinot Nero and Merlot seem to be setting the tone.

White Varieties (54% of production):

Pinot Grigio (11% of plantings) is the most planted white variety in Alto Adige. It displays different characteristics depending on where it

The Beauty of Alto Adige

is cultivated. From lean, fresh in the Val Venosta to a mineraly quality in the Adige Valley to rich and bigger body in Bolzano and the Oltradige.

Chardonnay (10% of plantings) It was in the early 80’s that this variety rose to prominence owing to the international craze of mono varietal wines. In Alto Adige it displays a range of characters from fresh, fruity and linear qualities when receiving stainless steel treatment to a more complex and textural richness when fermented in small oak barrels.

Pinot Bianco (10% of plantings) Exhibits aromas of apples and is usually higher in acid. Best examples do not see oak allowing them to retain their fresh vibrant character.

Gewürztraminer (7% of Plantings) This aromatic variety is closely linked to Alto Adige as it takes its name from the village of Termeno. Two hundred years ago it was the most planted variety in the region but because of its low yields and susceptibility to frost and diseases it almost disappeared from the scene. However it is now back and producing wines with a bevy of aromas ranging from rose petals, cloves, lychees and tropical fruits. It also exhibits an intense color, higher alcohol and oily texture.

Sauvignon Blanc or refered to as just “Sauvignon” in Alto Adige (4% of plantings) It was not introduced to the area until the 19th century, when it was planted with its Bordeaux sibling Semillion. The best plantings are found along the terraces of the Adige River, from Salorno up to Merano. Here the variety shows of intense aromas, crisp acid, and freshness. I found the examples I tried to be quite impressive. (See my notes below)

Mueller-Thurgau (3% of plantings) The grape expresses the following characters: in the Isarco Valley a scent of elder flowers, in the warmer Bassa Atesina notes of nuts and stone fruit, in the Val Venosta more mineral notes and fresh apples. Incidentally the variety is grown in Alto Adige’s highest vineyards at up to 3,300 feet (1000m), giving the wines a very crisp, crystal structure.

Kerner (.5% of plantings) this is a hybrid of the German grapes of Trollinger and Riesling named after the poet Justinus Kerner. Planted mostly in high elevation vineyards of the Isarco Valley and the Val Venosta. Wines are steely, spicy with subtle hints of nutmeg. This is a variety to watch in Alto Adige as it is finding quite a fancy.

Red Varieties (46% of production):

Schiava (31% of plantings) this is by far the most planted variety (both red and white). The wines made from this grape tend to be light, everyday wines, low in tannins with only moderate alcohol. The famous Santa Maddalena is regarded as fuller in body, the Lago di Caldaro softer, and the Meranese spicy. The grape can be found as a single variety wine labeled Alto Adige Schiava and Schiava Grigia or more commonly as a classified zone wine such as Santa Maddalena, Lago di Caldaro, Maraner, Colli di Bolzano, and Klausner Laitacher

Lagrein (8% of plantings) the wines made with this variety show rich aromas of berries, fresh macerated cherries and violets; on the palate, soft tannins and low acid. These characters are a good fight with current international trends. A rosé version is also made and is known as “Lagrein Rosato”. This is a variety to watch and should appeal to many an international palate. See my notes below.

Pinot Nero (5% of plantings) The arrival of Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir) did not happen until the mid-nineteenth century. Today the vine produces wines with good structure that resemble their cousins in Burgundy. A typical Alto Adige Pinot Nero has a rich and intense aroma of dark barriers, spice and floral violet notes. Truly interesting and note worthy wines.

Merlot (4% of plantings) arrived in the area about 120 years ago from Bordeaux along with its best friend Cabernet. To be found in mostly warm locations on deep chalky soils. Produces full, meaty with soft and ripe tannins. Since 1995 the area under vine has more than tripled.

Cabernet Sauvignon (3% of plantings) for a long time plagued by under ripe aromas of bell pepper, it has thanks to the lowering of yields been able to produce aromas of cassis, blackberries and spice. The modern wines are ones of structure with hints of black pepper and paprika. These are some of the longest-lived wines of the Alto Adige.

The potential of this are is not to be underestimated and the wines are worth exploring as there seams to be a wine to suit almost any occasion or palate. Even quality sparkling wines are produced here.

Here are some of my recommendations that I compiled after attending an Alto Adige focused tasting.

WHITES:

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco Kerner DOC 2008 $24

Nice floral nose, dried flowers, peach. Nice texture but could use a little more acid. Very pretty wine

Terlano Sauvignon Blanc Quarz 2007 $55

Petrol nose, wet stone with undertones of apple. Fresh acid with hints of citrus, apple. Nice texture with a long finish. Very reminiscent of older vintage Sancerre by Dagueneau.

Aromas are earthy with dusty cherry and cranberries. Hints of oak influence that are nicely integrated. Flavors of black cherry, smoke, earth, and mushroom. Big tannins for a Pinot Nero.

Cantina Bolzano, LAgrein Riserva Prestige 2007 $44

Very elegant nose showing dark fruit less primary and more oak aromas of vanilla, clove and cigar box. Very rich mouth feel, silky tannins, and good acid lend a nice balanced structure. Flavors of dark fruit, cinnamon, clove, black cherries and chocolate round out the wine. Very new world in style.

Colterenzio, Lagrein classic 2008 $18

Nose of red fruit punch, panettone and candied cherries. Palate has good acid and tannins with flavors of black cherries and cassis. The finish is medium plus in length and shows good balance. Good value.

Colterenzio, Cornelius 2003 (Merlot and Cabernet blend) $59

Nose showing some age and complexity. Notes of plum, blueberry, and cedar chest with some earth undertones. Favors of smoky cherries, red plum and clove. Soft ripe tannins and balanced acidity help the wine finish with complexity and good length. Shows that these wines are age worthy.

Cortaccia Winery, Lagrein Freienfeld DOC 2004 $33

Aromas of coffee bean, black currant, blackberries, smoke with a slight rustic character. Elegant texture on the palate with grippy tannins and excellent structure. Flavors of black fruit, liquored cherries, cloves, vanilla and smoke. Finish is big and long. Still very youthful for its age.

Alois Lagedar, Pinot Noir Krafuss 2005 $45

Old world nose with some seductive funk combined with smoke, coffee, cherries and strawberries. Spicey flavors of sour cherries, smoke, tar and oak. Tannins are grippy with good acid giving lift to the fruit. Persistent finish.

Alois Lagedar, Lagrein Lindenburg 2004 $30

Aromas of milk chocolate, dusty blackberries and vanilla. Big wine on the palate with flavors of cherry, chocolate, smoke and dark fruit. The tannins are chalky with balanced acid and alcohol. This will appeal to new world palates.

Peter Zemmer, Pinot Nero 2007 $18.99

Mushrooms, earth and dried red fruits with hints of dried roses on the nose. Flavors of smoke, cherries, plum, and oak char. Ripe tannins and zesty acidity with moderate alcohol. Nice complex finish that is very persistent. Great Value!

I found both the Pinot Nero and Lagein wines to be very interesting. There were two distinct styles represented; new world and rustic. I found appealing examples of both. There are clearly wineries that have modernized their production techniques and those were the wines that stood out for me. This is an area that produces some great wines that should appeal to wine lovers. Personally I find the aromatic whites to be the most exciting examples coming from Alto Adige.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/03/14/alto-adige-this-is-the-way-we-sudtirol/feed/8Switzerland-more than just cuckoo clocks and great chocolatehttp://blog.vintuba.com/2010/02/15/switzerland-more-then-just-cuckoo-clocks-and-great-chocolate/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/02/15/switzerland-more-then-just-cuckoo-clocks-and-great-chocolate/#commentsMon, 15 Feb 2010 15:11:56 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1614Switzerland is not generally known abroad for its wines. Several factors contribute to that: the climate is much different from that of sun-drenched California, production is expensive due to the cost of real-estate and labor costs are well above the EU, and especially South America. In a world accustomed to increasingly powerful wines at competitive prices, Swiss wines will have a difficult time against wines from Argentina, Australia and Chile, for example.... Read more

Switzerland is not generally known abroad for its wines. Several factors contribute to that: the climate is much different from that of sun-drenched California, production is expensive due to the cost of real-estate and labor costs are well above the EU, and especially South America. In a world accustomed to increasingly powerful wines at competitive prices, Swiss wines will have a difficult time against wines from Argentina, Australia and Chile, for example.

Swiss wine production is 44% red, 56% white. The Swiss prefer reds to whites: 70% to 30%. Imported red wine amounts to 74%, Swiss reds amount to only 24% of red wine consumption. White wine preferences are 72% Swiss, the balance are imports. The preferred wine production regions are Italy, France and Spain, with new world wines trailing far behind. Switzerland exports only small amounts (<1,000 cases) to France, Germany, Belgium and the U.K. and to ethnic Swiss restaurants like the Matterhorn in San Francisco.

Yet Switzerland is an avid consumer of wine: the annual per-capita consumption is 48 liters, or about 12.7 gal., behind France, Italy, Portugal and Croatia. This is about four-fold the amount consumed by Americans.

Switzerland is merely one-tenth the size of California: 15,942 vs. 158,706 sq. miles, yet there are 7.7 million inhabitants, compared to 38 million in California. Switzerland has four official languages: German, French, Italian and Romantsch (Raeto-Romance); it stretches from 45˚49 northern latitude in Ticino to 47˚47 N at the German border. Compare that to California, stretching from 32˚32 N to 42˚ N. The Alps create distinct climates and separate the quasi subtropical Italian-speaking Ticino, where palm trees grow, from the sunny Valais and from the remainder of the cooler North.

The Vineyards of Lavaux

Viticulture in Switzerland is a labor-intensive prospect. All too often, vintners have increased yields at the expense of quality. Because the weather can be unreliable, steep vineyards offer the best exposure to the sun. As a general rule, valley floor sites rate far below vineyards perched on southerly slopes, some as steep as 70%. A comparison of labor required to farm one acre of vines from the mid-1990s: valley floor vineyards in Geneva CHF 12,342 ($11,643), and CHF 26,479 ($24,980) in the steep vineyards of the Lavaux in Dézaley. That is more than double! See picture at left.

Switzerland has a long history of viticulture and wine. Near Neuchâtel, grape seeds dating from the Neolithic period have been found (3000-1800 B.C.) Based on ancient varietals still cultivated today in Valais, e.g. Amigne, Arvine, Humagne, Switzerland’s early viticulture was influenced by the Romans. There is documentary evidence of viticulture from the 6th Century of our time. Just like in Burgundy, the Cistercians were instrumental in Swiss viticulture: the abbey at Montheron established the famous vineyard at Dézaley. Before phylloxera struck in the latter part of the 19th C, about 85,000 acres of vines were under cultivation. Today, there are about 36,500 acres planted. The varietals number about 200. The best known is Chasselas–used only in Switzerland for Vinification. Others are indigenous: Petite Arvine, Amigne, Cornalin, Humagne Rouge, and intra-specific vitis vinifera crosses like Gamaret, Garanoir and Diolinoir.

White varietals in acres planted: Chasselas leads with 10,000, followed by about 1,200 of Müller-Thurgau, 780 of Chardonnay, 600 of Sylvaner, called Johannisberg, 530 of Pinot Gris, called Malvoisie, 370 indigenous Petite Arvigne, then Sauvignon blanc at 311, 255 Pinot blanc, Savagnin, also called Heida, at just under 200 ac., plus about 50 additional whites.

Western, French-speaking Switzerland encompasses the Valais, Vaud, Geneva, Neuchâtel and western Berne, where mostly Chasselas and Pinot noir are cultivated. The real powerhouse for wine is the Valais, running NE to SW tucked between the Alps, the Rhône River which empties into Lake Geneva, springs from the Rhône Glacier at Gletsch. The highest vineyard in continental Europe is located in Visperterminen, at 3,600 feet. There are some 22,000 vintners, most of them part-time, who cultivate about 13,000 acres of vineyards located between 1,500 to 2,800 feet. There are 2,090 hours of sunshine, and only 23” – 32” of rainfall per year. This puts the Valais in a similar climate with Bordeaux. It is also where the first minimum requirements for quality wine were formulated. Chasselas for the white Fendant and Pinot noir reign in Valais.

The first Cistercian monastery at Dézaley, on the northern banks of Lake Geneva, led to a culture of vineyards in very steep locations. Dézaley is still one of the most revered Swiss white wines, and perhaps the best example what a fine wine the Chasselas grape can produce. Along with Calamin, Dézaley shares the only Grand Cru designation in the Canton Vaud.

Neuchâtel and Berne make lighter whites in sur-lie style from Chasselas, and Pinot noir; Oeil de Perdrix, the eye of the partridge, is a famous dry rosé from the shores of Lake Neuchâtel.

The northeastern, German-speaking, part of Switzerland produces Pinot noir, called Blauburgunder or Clevner in a lighter, low-alcohol, very food-friendly style. No “marmalade” Pinot here! The predominant white varietal is the curiously misnamed “Riesling x Sylvaner” which is Müller-Thurgau. This vigorously producing vinifera has become the curse of the German white wine, where it is shunned. With low yields, it can produce a charming dry wine reminiscent of white peaches, but only if the Brix stays relatively low. Plant it in a better climate, and the charm is gone.

A specialty is Räuschling, an old, indigenous varietal found around Lake Zürich. It is in need of malolactic fermentation in order to tame the acidity. It accompanies cheeses and local fish dishes as well as Züri-Gschnätzlets, diced veal in cream sauce, although a light Clevner is preferred by the author.

Traveling east from Lake Zürich towards the Grisons, Graubünden, one meets the Rhine river just past Sargans. A few miles upstream, nestled at the foot of tall mountains, is the Bündner Herrschaft famous for its Pinot noir grown in Maienfeld, Fläsch, Malans, Jenins. The Föhn, a Santa-Ana-type of warm wind accelerating as it falls into the valleys, creates a distinct and almost fiery quality. Gastromondiale tasted 2006 Gantenbein Pinot Noir from Fläsch:

“A very unique Pinot Noir from the Grisons forest. Had I tasted it blind with Bourgognes, I would not have noticed that it is indeed not a Chambolle Musigny 1st Cru. It had not shed its baby fat and was a touch over-oaked, but this dissipated in the glass revealing a hard and pretty core. OK it does not have the unique charm and elegance of a Grand Cru Bourgogne, but who does? Much better than the highly touted and priced American Pinot Noirs, such as Marcassin and Kistler (which tend to be rather heavy). B+.”

Ticino

http://www.flickr.com/photos/reblf/ / CC BY-ND 2.0

There are about 3,800 vintners tending roughly 2,400 acres. After phylloxera, the Bordeaux varietal Merlot was planted here widely and replaced the previous hybrids. It now accounts for 83% of all Ticino plantings. It wasn’t until voluntary, rigorous yield restrictions were implemented, that Ticino Merlot made a name for itself. Strangely, the majority of the new generation of vintners seems to have Swiss German names in this Italian-speaking part of Switzerland. Here again a tasting note from Gastromondiale:

2004 Luigi Zanini Vinattierri: 100% Merlot from Ticino (appellation Besazio). Dark and brooding. Wild mushrooms and damp leaves on the nose. Complex and well-balanced acids and tannins. It combines the sensual nature of a Bolgheri Merlot and the breed of a Pomerol. Oak is very well integrated. Long finish. A

There is a Merlot called Quattromani, which translates as “four hands” which best describes the four wine makers (Claudio Tamborini, Feliciano Gialdi, Angelo Delea and Guido Brivio) who produced this outstanding wine. This medium-bodied, deep garnet colored wine is 100% merlot that has been blended from merlot grapes from each of these wine makers vineyards. It has wonderful aromas of dried cherries, plum and pepper with a hint of roses. On the palate, you will also pick up blackberry and mild oak along with the cherries, plum and pepper. The acidity is well balanced along with smooth tannins and a wonderful long finish. This wine will cellar well for 5-10 years. (Blogspot 12/9/09)

Switzerland offers a wide variety of very interesting wines. Most are of premium quality, there are only a small number of hard-to-get top wines. Across the board, Swiss vintners have increased the level of quality. The previously painful difference in price has been largely mitigated. The problem is that they are difficult to find outside Switzerland, and they are representative of the Swiss climate. Is a car only a car if it is a Hummer? If California were to be seen as the high-water mark for quality, then they might not measure up. But, do we really need more thick, rich, high-alcohol fruit bombs? Aren’t there enough of them already?

So, my recommendation is to peruse the wine list, wherever you are. If you should be so lucky to find Swiss wines, do try them. If you find a Gantenbein Pinot Noir from Fläsch, be sure to call me. I’ll come over for a Dézaley Clos des Moines as well.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/02/15/switzerland-more-then-just-cuckoo-clocks-and-great-chocolate/feed/10Puttin’ the dubya back in wine! Texas style y’all…http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/02/11/puttin-the-dubya-back-in-wine-texas-style-yall/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/02/11/puttin-the-dubya-back-in-wine-texas-style-yall/#commentsThu, 11 Feb 2010 17:10:31 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1596All sorts of things probably spring to mind when I say Texas – big, oil, Houston we have a problem, wide open spaces, women with big hair, Texas twangs, over the top state pride, cowboys, former presidents who are cowboys – but my guess is that wine probably doesn’t really make it onto most people’s list.

Please join me in welcoming BenS as our latest guest contributor! BenS currently wanders the state of Texas seeking oenological delights. What Ben lacks in wine qualifications, he makes up for in passion. Ben hopes to one day become of Wine Man of Letters, as he has started studying for his Certified Specialist of Wine certificate. He also writes for his own blog, Vinotology

Welcome and let’s dive right in!

All sorts of things probably spring to mind when I say Texas – big, oil, Houston we have a problem, wide open spaces, women with big hair, Texas twangs, over the top state pride, cowboys, former presidents who are cowboys – but my guess is that wine probably doesn’t really make it onto most people’s list.

Texas actually has a very rich wine history. Over 100 years before the first consistent grape production began in California, Texas became one of the first states in the US to plant vineyards when Franciscan priests established a vineyard and winery at the Mission of Ysleta in 1662. Although Texas has not followed the same path as California when it comes to wine, you might be surprised to learn that Texas is actually the fifth largest state in the US in wine production and has over 160 wineries. Not only is Texas producing a lot of wine, the wine business is also rapidly growing. As recently as 2003 there were only 54 wineries in the state, so the proliferation of new wineries has been profound.

As Texans are infinitely fond of reminding everyone, Texas is a big state, measuring 268,820 square miles. In a state so large there are bound to be many differences and much diversity among the regions of the state. Texas is currently home to eight different American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). Of these eight appellations, the Texas Hill Country and Texas High Plains stand out as the primary grape producing and winemaking AVAs.

The Texas Hill Country has historically been the real epicenter of Texas winemaking. The appellation is the second largest in the United States, covering over 9,000,000 acres, and contains two smaller AVAs – the Bell Mountain and the Fredericksburg AVAs. Despite its enormous size, there are currently less than 1000 acres of grapes planted within the appellation. The real focus in this area is on winemaking. Around 60 wineries are located in this AVA. Fruit is often sourced from other areas of the state, or from out of state growers. You will find a lot of the traditional French varieties being grown in the Texas Hill Country, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay being some of the most common. Other varieties that are fairly commonly grown in this area are Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Pinot Noir and Riesling.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sheeshoo/ / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

The other primary appellation in Texas is the Texas High Plains AVA, which was established in 1993. Although smaller than the Hill Country AVA, at 7,680,000 acres it is still an extremely large AVA. The High Plains has become a major producer of wine grapes for wineries around the state. The area has an elevation of around 3,000 feet, is semi-arid and has long, hot summer days and cool nights, making it well suited to the production of grapes. Some of the oldest and largest wineries in the state are found in the Texas High Plains, including Llano Estacado Winery and Pheasant Ridge Winery. Historically, the same trio of French varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay) that are featured in the Texas Hill Country have also been featured in the Texas High Plains, although growers have been experimenting with a number of other varieties recently.

The other AVAs in Texas are producing significantly fewer grapes and less wine. The other AVAs are the Escondido Valley (which has no wineries, but does produce some grapes), the Mesilla Valley (most of this AVA is located in New Mexico), and the Texoma AVA. The Texoma AVA might be most well known as the AVA where Thomas Volney Munson discovered the solution to the French phylloxera epidemic, making it a major contributor to the wine world.

Just like anywhere else, there are a number of challenges to making wine in Texas. One of the biggest challenges is that demand for Texas grapes greatly exceeds the supply. While the number of wineries has increased from 54 in 2003 to over 160 in 2009, the number of acres producing grapes during that time has remained fairly static, averaging somewhere between 3,000 and 3,500 acres a year. Most Texas wineries would like to be able to make more wines from Texas grapes, especially among their top tier wines, but Texas grape production has not kept up with the demand. Texas grower Neil Newsome was quoted in a recent article as saying, “All these wineries would prefer to be buying Texas grapes for their tier-one wines, and we’re not even growing enough to fill that need. We currently have 3,600 acres planted to winegrapes in Texas. Just to support the tier-one wines would take 5,000 or 6,000 acres. That doesn’t even count the under-$10 wines made by the big wineries like St. Genevieve, Llano Estacado, Fall Creek and Messina Hof. If they wanted to buy Texas grapes, we’d probably need 12,000 acres.” According to a quote in the same article from the CEO of the largest winery in Texas, Pat Prendergast of Mesa, “We produce 2 million gallons of wine per year, which is about 11,500 tons. In a good year, Texas grape growers produce 4,500 tons for the whole state–and that’s an optimistic view….” The shortage of Texas grapes has had an additional effect; it has made Texas grapes more expensive than fruit sourced from other locations, such as California. More expensive grapes mean more expensive wines. Top flight Texas wines are often known to be priced relatively high.

http://www.texaswinetrail.com/

As in every other region, weather, pests, and diseases can also be a factor in Texas. Texas vineyards often struggle with late season freezes, hail, and very hot summers. Vineyards in all areas of the state have also often had to fight with Pierce’s Disease, which is caused by a bacteria spread by certain insects. Several Texas wineries have had success with growing varieties that are resistant to Pierce’s Disease, including Blanc DuBois and Lenoir, also known as “Black Spanish”. Wines made from these grapes might be less well known than the French varietals that have been grown around the state, but they show the potential to become expressive of Texas terroir.

There are some other varieties that are better known that are also showing a lot of potential in Texas. One of the varieties that is being produced more and more around the state is Tempranillo. Tempranillo responds very well to some of the conditions in Texas, ripening under hot, dry conditions and resisting late spring freezes better than some varieties. Several Italian varieties have also been performing well in Texas, including Sangiovese, Dolcetto, and Vermentino. The Mediterranean climate found in much of Texas seems to allow some of these varieties to flourish and may ultimately express Texas terroir better than many of the French varietals that have been grown in the past.

Texas wine seems to be reaching a crossroads. Many growers across the state are experimenting more with different varieties of grapes, seeing what really works best with Texas climate and soil. I view the state as being like the college student who goes on a trip to Europe to “find themselves”. Texas is really trying to find its own identity right now, and is looking for the grapes that will ultimately be the most expressive of a unique Texas terroir. For some wineries and some areas, that may ultimately be found in French Bordeaux varietals, but when I talk to friends of mine who own vineyards in the area, I get a picture of a Texas wine landscape ten years from now that will hardly resemble the one that you find today. Already the production of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay has decreased within the state, and an increased diversity in less common varieties can be seen. There’s a lot of growing room for wine in Texas, both in the volume of wine grapes being produced in the state, and in the distinctiveness of Texas wine. It’s hard to predict what the future holds, but it should be fun to find out.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/02/11/puttin-the-dubya-back-in-wine-texas-style-yall/feed/17Apologia for Eau-de-Viehttp://blog.vintuba.com/2010/01/31/apologia-for-eau-de-vie/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/01/31/apologia-for-eau-de-vie/#commentsSun, 31 Jan 2010 20:02:35 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1559I just returned from a weekend of spirits tasting. As the Old World Old Guy, I was shocked by the prevailing attitudes I found my fellow tasters had, including the lecturer at our event, to lesser-known spirits. Everyone knows it is fashionable to like Cognac. Aficionados go for Armagnac and their dried fruit flavors. Fewer are enthusiastic about Brandy de Jerez. Surprising, to me at least, is the level of enthusiasm for the best-selling “clean spirits,” e.g. vodka. Its singular distinguishing mark is this: the less you can identify the base material, the better it seems to be.

I just returned from a weekend of spirits tasting. As the Old World Old Guy, I was shocked by the prevailing attitudes I found my fellow tasters had, including the lecturer at our event, to lesser-known spirits. Everyone knows it is fashionable to like Cognac. Aficionados go for Armagnac and their dried fruit flavors. Fewer are enthusiastic about Brandy de Jerez. Surprising, to me at least, is the level of enthusiasm for the best-selling “clean spirits,” e.g. vodka. Its singular distinguishing mark is this: the less you can identify the base material, the better it seems to be. Go figure. Given that fact, perhaps I should not be surprised by the general aversion to grappa, marc, and—god forbid—non-grape fruit-based spirits. I have always noted a general surprise North Americans have to the perceived dominance the alcohol has in the lesser-known pitted fruit derived eaux-de-vie found in Europe. There are fruit esters, which make the brandy appear more astringent.

There is the issue of congeners, or flavors inherent to the base material from which a spirit is distilled. A high level of congeners is detrimental if the goal is a neutral spirit: vodka is the best example. No matter the base, it should taste neutral. Wouldn’t it be a novel concept to use in wine? “Hey, honey, come taste this wine: it is clean and clear and tastes like nothing but alcohol.” Novel? Perhaps not. Too many wines follow that path to Mondovino!

The opposite of that position is to have superior base materials good enough to convey congeners to the distillate. Cognac and Armagnac are the best examples. Top quality grappa and certainly the upper tier of eaux-de-vies de fruits belongs in that category as well.

The first observation is that, as under-appreciated as they are stateside, there are young European artisanal distillers enjoying devoted, cult-like following. They produce what is known as Edelbrand (German), Distillats Nobles (French for noble distilled spirits). These producers generally are very hard to find on a specialty shelf in the U.S. Urs Hecht of Gunzwiler Destillate link (to German web page) has been awarded the title of Distiller of the Year every year since 1999.

German-speakers refer to distilled alcoholic beverages as Schnaps, or Schnäpse (pl.), not to be confused with the American schnapps, which is neutral spirits (see above), flavors and a generous dose of sugar and glycerin: a liqueur. There are two broad segments of Schnaps: those derived from stone fruit and other pitted fruit, namely apples and pears.

Method of Schnaps Distillation

Fruits contain sugars which are directly fermentable. In a first step a mash is fermented, resulting in a fruit “wine” of single-digit alcoholic strength. That “wine” is then distilled, usually twice, using a pot still. Separating the “heads” and “tails” which are toxic, form the potable “heart” is critical. Depending on quality, the final level of alcohol by volume is between 40 and 43%. These eaux-de-vies are usually not aged in oak. Specialty distillers have begun to offer top-tier Schnaps aged in Barriques, (sometimes oak, for Kirsch in cherry-wood) albeit without much wood-derived color.

Steinfrücheschnaps; Stone fruit derived

The least-liked example may be Slivovitz from the Slavic countries, often pungent and sometimes compared to moonshine. Avoid home-made Slivovitz, as it may contain traces of methanol.

Zwetschgenwasser (Quetsch in Alsace), Pflaumenschnaps, Pflümliwasser are produced from Prunus domestica subsp. Domestica, the plum. A preferred digestif after a n-course meal, served with espresso, after dessert.

Better quality is called Pflümli, a diminutive of Zwetschge, the former being smaller and intense, the latter large and less expressive.

Abricot, or Aprikosenwasser is made from apricots and can be found in Hungary, as Marillenschnaps in Austria and in Alsace and Switzerland.

Mirabelle is the rather exotic small stone fruit which is used to make, well, Mirabelle.

This is a specialty not readily found outside Alsace and Switzerland.

Kirsch (Kirschwasser) is made from cherries, sometimes including crushed pits. It is the most noble of the noble destillates. There is Kirsch made from cherry varietals (eg. Lauerzer, Doleseppler), from geographic regions (Zuger, Baselbieter, Luzerner). Specialties include sour-cherry Kirsch from (Prunus cerasus). Swiss Kirsch production is about 535,000 bottles. Zadar, in former Yugoslavia, produces Kirsch, but is more famous for its Maraschino (“Mara-SKIno”), a water-white cherry liqueur with bitter notes–the origin of the well-known maraschino cherry–best known from the distillers Maraska, and the Italian Luxardo.

Kernobstschnaps: Pitted fruit derived

Poire Williams is the name of a varietal known as Bartlett in North America which makes an exquisite pear brandy. Some bottles contain only liquor, others a pear carefully grown into the bottle which is then filled with Williamine. How do you get the pear out? Well, you don’t. Initially, the pear absorbs the alcohol and is relatively protected from spoilage even once the bottle is empty. You simply fill the bottle with a regular bottle of pear brandy and keep the pear in the bottle, in perpetuity, as it were.

Apfel: Gravensteiner, Bernerrosen etc. Schnaps: varietal Apple Brandy

Regional varietals, sometimes heirloom varietals, are the up-and-coming thing. Most of these varietals are local and may be of no significance internationally, which is precisely the attraction.

Quittenschnaps: Quincy Apple, or Quince

Good example of a mostly overlooked tree fruit-based distillate. Most people have never seen, nor tasted a quincy apple. Its called Cydonia oblonga and is inedible unless cooked. Unmistakable aromas. A quince is a quince, hard to compare to anything else. Try it, you may like it.

Conclusion

America is following the French in its obsession with the notion of terroir. Not to be outdone by the French, we invoke this concept whenever we can, and wherever there is wine to be sold. To dismiss terroir in wine is akin to being a heretic, unless one is an agnostic to start. The idea of what the wine is made from, where it is sourced, the influence of climate, cellar technique, barrel-aging all add to the sum total of a wine.

Vodka is at the other end of the continuum. Distill any trace of source out of it. Make it neutral, like distilled water with a punch. Never mind what it is made from. If you don’t like it, they’ll add flavors: Citron, Pepper, Bison Grass, Strawberry, Watermelon, Cinnamon, Coffee, etc., paling Baskin Robbins palette of flavors. Now there is even a hot pepper-flavored vodka! If vodka is any indication of the sophistication of the American consumer, then we have lowered the bar to (American) schnapps! Vodka, the very antithesis of source, is now the best selling distilled spirit in the U.S.

Go out and find some good quality fruit-based European spirit. Brace yourself for impact. You’ll survive. And be the better for it.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/01/31/apologia-for-eau-de-vie/feed/3It takes a lot of sheep to make good wine in New Zealand.http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/01/15/it-takes-a-lot-of-sheep-to-make-good-wine-in-new-zealand/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/01/15/it-takes-a-lot-of-sheep-to-make-good-wine-in-new-zealand/#commentsFri, 15 Jan 2010 17:45:58 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1500It takes a lot of sheep to make good wine in New Zealand. Sheeps milk, to be more exact.

Not that beer is losing ground as a favorite drink for the winemaking set during harvest; and these winemakers are not necessarily guzzling back tall glasses of the white milky stuff. But if it weren’t for all of the sheep in the country, who knows how long it would have taken New Zealand to get into the international winemaking game.

It takes a lot of sheep to make good wine in New Zealand. Sheeps milk, to be more exact.

Not that beer is losing ground as a favorite drink for the winemaking set during harvest; and these winemakers are not necessarily guzzling back tall glasses of the white milky stuff. But if it weren’t for all of the sheep in the country, who knows how long it would have taken New Zealand to get into the international winemaking game. New Zealand is pretty isolated, and delivering winemaking equipment there is very expensive. One day, however, the wine-thirsty people of New Zealand looked around at all of the stainless steel tanks they had for processing their sheep’s milk, and thought, hmmm, we could use this equipment to make wine.

Make wine they did – and sauvignon blanc wine that stopped the world. What is most fascinating about New Zealand’s sauvignon blanc is that it was not even planted there just 30 years ago. But once they started, it was all fireworks and grammy shows; the wines were wildly popular with critics and consumers.

New Zealand is currently working on putting more eggs in its basket. The country knows that putting all of its energy into one grape—its star sauvignon blanc grape–is a very near-sighted thing to do. Wine consumers are as fickle as any other type of consumer and varietals go in and out of fashion, especially in new world countries like the United States. The U.S., along with the U.K. and Australia—and Japan for the higher end wines– are the biggest markets for New Zealand wine. So the Bordeaux style wines of Hawkes Bay, and the Pinots of Martinborough and Central Otago, among others, are being held up for world review.

In general, what is really cool about winemaking in New Zealand is that they grow the most southerly grapes in the world. The two islands have a general Maritime climate, but the range from the tip of the North island to the bottom of the South ranges from subtropical to continental. It rains more in the West, so many of the vineyards are planted on the East. The East Coast vineyards are protected from some of the bad weather by a series of mountains that run down the country, roughly North to South.

Let’s take our own look around the country and see what they are up to. Today, we will concentrate on the North Island.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/robertpaulyoung/ / CC BY 2.0

Auckland : Mostly red wine is made here; the best known ones are from Henderson, Kumeu, Huapai, Waiheke Island, Matakana, and Clevedon

Climate: Warmest region of New Zealand ; subtropical; cloud-cover moderates the sun here and provides a steady winegrowing season

Soil: clay which can be quite heavy, with a lighter clay topsoil

Viticulture: the whole country is a leader in canopy management and trellising ; rain and rot are a problem here at harvest

Grapes: Most popular are chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, merlot ; also planted: sauvignon blanc and semillon

Styles: Waiheke Island is known for its wines from the Bordeaux varietals: cab sauv, merlot and cab franc (it is less rainy here so the Bordeaux varietals ripen well); Matakana is known for its cabernet sauvignon in particular

Northland: a tiny region, but historical in that New Zealand winemaking started here. The first grapes on the island were stuck in the ground in 1819. It is a particularly wet region, especially on the west coast, and so it is not easy to make great wine here. But great wine can be made. Using careful canopy management and trellising, among other viticultural practices, and being smart about where they plant, several producers are making really good wine, especially cabernet sauvignon and syrah. Since this area is on the most northern tip of the North island, it is the warmest, and therefore ripens Bordeaux varietals well.

Gisbourne: The third most important region in the country after Marlborough and Hawkes Bay

Location: on the East coast of the North Island. Its vineyards get the title of “most easterly vineyards in the world.”

Climate: The area gets high sun hours, and it is sheltered from much of the nasty weather coming from the west by mountains to its west, but it still gets more rain than Hawkes Bay.

Soils: Fertile : alluvial over sand

Viticulture: canopy management and trellising techniques used

Grapes: Chardonnay is most important

Production: More white than red here, an almost 90-10% split.

Hawkes Bay: The second largest winegrowing area in the country; producing noteworthy wines from the Bordeaux varietals.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/flissphil/ / CC BY 2.0

Location: South of Gisbourne, on the East Coast

Climate: Maritime, warm. Sheltered from the westerlies by the mountains. Rain is low here with high temperatures (still lower than Bordeaux) along the Gimblett Gravel area, but cooler in the higher altitude vineyards of central Hawkes Bay.

Soils: Wide range, but good free-draining. There are outcroppings of gravel, called Gimblett Gravels, which are great for cabernet and merlot. They run deep and provide a warm environment for late ripeners such as cab sauv, merlot, cab franc and syrah.

Viticulture: canopy management and trellising techniques; the wide range of soils create the need for many different vineyard practices

Grapes: Chardonnay is most important to production, cabernet sauvignon and merlot get lots of attention, but good pinot noir is also grown here. There is also cabernet franc and syrah.

Martinborough – has boutique wineries with a great reputation; a very dynamic area. It is only 6th in size but very important to the country in terms of quality

Location: In the Wairapara region which is in Wellington.

Climate: More like Marlborough on the South Island, than its northern counterparts: it is sunny and pretty dry

Soils: loam and gravelly terraces

Viticulture: low cropping with a long ripening period

Grapes: Pinot Noir has been a success, as well as sauvignon blanc

Style: Full-bodied, rich pinots

All this talk about North Island New Zealand certainly doesn’t make me want to go get a big cold glass of milk. I think it’s sauvignon blanc time at my house.

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2010/01/15/it-takes-a-lot-of-sheep-to-make-good-wine-in-new-zealand/feed/3German Eiswein (Ice Wine) Harvest 2009http://blog.vintuba.com/2009/12/20/german-eisewein-ice-wine-harvest-2009/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2009/12/20/german-eisewein-ice-wine-harvest-2009/#commentsMon, 21 Dec 2009 05:44:00 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1349What is Eiswein? Well, for those of you who might not be familiar with this beautifully aromatic and sweet dessert wine here is a little background.

Although Eiswein/Ice wine can now be had from regions around the world one could say that Germany is the re-birthplace if not the birthplace of this unctuous elixir. While Germany often gets the credit for creation of ice wine there are indications that frozen grapes were used to make wine in Roman times.

Disclaimer: The following might be considered too geeky for some. Proceed at your own risk!

What is Eiswein? Well, for those of you who might not be familiar with this beautifully aromatic and sweet dessert wine here is a little background.

Although Eiswein/Ice wine can now be had from regions around the world one could say that Germany is the re-birthplace if not the birthplace of this unctuous elixir. While Germany often gets the credit for creation of ice wine there are indications that frozen grapes were used to make wine in Roman times. Pliny the Elder (AD 23 – 79) wrote about certain grape varieties that were not harvested before frost had occurred. The poet Martial (AD 40 – 102) recommended that grapes should be left on the vine until November or until they were stiff with frost. However, some time later the practice seems to have either been forgotten or abandoned. It was not until 1794, in Franconia Germany, that ice wine or Eiswein reappeared as a winemaking practice.
Even if counties as far flung as Canada now produce Icewine on a regular basis genuine Eiswein (German Ice Wine) is counted among the great sweet wines of the world.

Eiswein is an an extreme version of the late harvest method; the grapes are left to hang on the vine long after the late harvest, such as Trockenbeerenauslese and Beerenauskesse, has been completed. Great care is taken to protect the remaining grapes from the attack of birds and wild boars which pose a constant threat to the remaining grapes. This special wine can only be made when the weather cooperates. This means that grapes must be picked at temperatures that are at least -8 degrees Celsius, usually in December, or even as late as January. Since weather prognostication is not an exact science (contrary to the beliefs held by weathermen all around the world) the winemaker and the vineyard crew have to be at the ready as soon as the temperature hits the magic – 8 degrees Celsius, which usually doesn’t happen until the dark of night. When the alarm sounds, signaling the right temperature, the crew heads into the vineyard to harvest the frozen berries which must remain frozen all the way through the pressing process. It is this freezing process that is absolutely essential.
Once at the winery, the frozen grapes are pressed. The ice crystals remain in the press and the resulting juice obtained is high in both sugar (in Germany

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rivard/ / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

referred to as Oeschle), acids and aromatic compounds. This concentrated juice is then collected and fermented. The result is a wine that is both exceptionally sweet and exceptionally tart. See below for flavor profiles.
The must weight required for a wine to achieve classification as Eiswein varies from one region of Germany to another. Eiswein must hit at least 110º Oechsle in several regions, including Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, but this figure climbs as high as 128º for Baden. Note that in all cases, however, this is less than that required for Trockenbeerenauslese, which must be at least 150º Oechsle.

Because it is so difficult to make, ice wine tends to be rare and expensive. 375 ml to 500ml bottles can start at +$50 and go up from there paying $100’s of is not unheard of. Eiswein has established itself as a wine that people will pay a fortune for.

Eiswein is distinguished by the contrast between its fragrant sweetness and acidity. A great Eiswein is both rich and fresh. Young Eisweins have tropical fruit, peach or berry overtones. Older Eisweins suggest caramel or honey. Colors can range from white to rose.

Über GEEK WARNING: If you thought the above information was geeky the geek factor that follows is even higher!

HESSISCHE BERGSTRASSEBergsträsser Winzer eG (Heppenheim): 200 Liter with 175 ° C Oechsle on Friday and on Saturday two Riesling-Eisweine with 271° Oechsle from the Heppenheimer Eckweg vineyard and 274° from Heppenheimer Maiberg vineyard. These could currently be the highest must-weights recorded so far this year.

MOSELWeingut Klaus Lotz (Erden): 120 Liter Riesling-Eiswein with 190° Oechsle harvested at – 16 ° C.Weingut Philipps-Eckstein (Graach-Schäferei): two Riesling-Eisweines: One of Friday harvested at -10 ° C from the vineyard Graacher Himmerleich with 165° Oechsle and the other on Saturday harvested at – 18 ° C from Graacher Himmelreich vineyard with 192° Oehsle.Weingut S. A. Prüm (Wehlen): approximately150 Liter Riesling Eiswein harvested at -10.5° from the Graacher Himmelreich vineyard with 165 ° Oechsle and 14 % acid.Wein- und Sektgut Walter Rauen (Detzem): Riesling-Eiswein with 208° oechsle harvested on Saturday at -15 ° C. This is the highest must-weight from the property since the 1989 harvest.Weingut Reh (Schleich): Riesling-Eiswein with 170° Oechsle harvested Saturday at -12 ° C in from the Pölicher Held vineyard.Weingut Zender-Göhlen (Wittlich): 300 Liters of Riesling-Eiswein with a must-weight of 140 ° Oechsle. This was harvested on thursday morning makeing it possibly the earliest Eiswein of the year.

Weingut Schönleber-Blümlein (Oestrich-Winkel): 120 Liter Riesling-Eiswein with 265° Oechsle. Harvested on Saturday at -12.5 ° C from Winkeler Gutenberg. On of the 10 highest must-weights of the vintage.

Weingut Spreitzer (Oestrich): Riesling-Eiswein with 260 ° Oechsle harvested at – 15 ° C. This is so far the 5th highest must-weight of the vintage.RHEINHESSEN

]]>http://blog.vintuba.com/2009/12/20/german-eisewein-ice-wine-harvest-2009/feed/2The Magical World of Portuguese Winehttp://blog.vintuba.com/2009/12/09/the-magical-world-of-portuguese-wine/
http://blog.vintuba.com/2009/12/09/the-magical-world-of-portuguese-wine/#commentsThu, 10 Dec 2009 05:09:27 +0000http://blog.vintuba.com/?p=1303Entering wine country in Portugal is almost like being Alice falling down the rabbit hole. It’s a whole other world. It is also one of the most intriguing wine regions of the world.

Port wines have been famous for centuries, and its winegrowing area was one of the very first in the world to be legally limited by certain boundaries (called demarcation). Now Portugal’s wine producers are taking their table wines just as seriously as their fortified wines. And table wines from Portugal are among the top ten imports into the U.S. There are roughly 230 grape varieties grown here.

Introduction: We at VINTUBA are very honored to welcome CatherineS as a new contributor to our very humble site. CatherineS is one of the most talented and knowledgeable wine writers and educators that we are lucky enough to have in our circle of friends. We look forward to sharing many more posts penned by CatherineS.

The Magical World of Portuguese Wine

by CatherineS

Entering wine country in Portugal is almost like being Alice falling down the rabbit hole. It’s a whole other world. It is also one of the most intriguing wine regions of the world.

Port wines have been famous for centuries, and its winegrowing area was one of the very first in the world to be legally limited by certain boundaries (called demarcation). Now Portugal’s wine producers are taking their table wines just as seriously as their fortified wines. And table wines from Portugal are among the top ten imports into the U.S. There are roughly 230 grape varieties grown here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lgcustodio/ / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

On top of the sheer number of grapes being grown in Portugal, the very thing that makes Portugal so fascinating is its fastidious loyalty to indigenous grapes. In the increasingly homogenous world of wine, where a Right Bank merlot blend can easily be mistaken for a Napa Valley cab, what could be better than tasting a Baga or Antao Vaz and knowing that you are tasting wines not replicated anywhere across the Atlantic? Suddenly, chasing a rabbit around the unknown seems rather intriguing.

To truly understand this magical world, lets put it into perspective historically, and then
take a trip around the wine producing sub-regions of the country to see what is going on there today. We’ll cover some basic information that is good for those studying the region, but even if you are not studying, you just have to take in these grape names! Some of these names you will see nowhere else on earth.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mimo28/ / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

A 3 ounce Pour of History
Wines from Portugal were popular with the British as early as the 12th century. Sales got even better once England went to war with France in the 17th century and Portuguese wines, including Port, replaced sales of French wines. The East Coast of the United States, not yet officially the United States, was another big market for the wines of Portugal. Phylloxera slowed things down in the 19th century, and quality suffered as a result of government mandated co-operatives. Not that co-ops are always bad—some have turned around the fortunes of wine regions around the world—but the heavily burdensome Portuguese government kept getting in the way of winemaking, and quality suffered as a result. Good news came in 1986 when Portugal was admitted into the EU. That always means money for agricultural undertakings, at least for now, and the wine industry benefitted from a new cash flow.

Now let’s take that tour. You’ll be amazed by all of the really interesting sips going on.

In the North West, on the Atlantic, is Vinho Verde. Every good wine making country can use a white wine appellation and Vinho Verde is Portugal’s. It is the largest DOC in Portugal.

Vinho Verde two ounce pour (of a tour) on the subregion:Climate: Maritime with warm summers and high rainfall which often falls in the summer through harvest causing fungal problems and disease.Topography: Minho river runs north of the region and the Douro river runs through the south.Soils: Lots of granite – granite bedrock with sand and granite topsoilStar Grape: Alvarinho (white) – Not a wallflower grape, it produces high alcohol wines with perfumed aromas. This is grown mostly in the North, especially in the sub-region, Moncao.Other white grapes: Paderna, which retains acidity; and Loueiro, which some liken to Riesling. These two whites are more grown in the South of Vinho Verde, and not as prized as Alvarinho.
Before you start thinking that this is only white wine country, Amaral is a red grape which produces tannic wines with a purple hue.
Viticulture: Recent plantings are trained double cordon but the high-trained Cruzeta (in the shape of a cross) system has traditionally been used, as well as enforcado (trained up a tree).Winemaking: Traditionally, the region’s famous whites went through malolactic fermentation to get a slight prickle from the CO2, but now malolactic is avoided and CO2 is injected. It sounds bad, but the wines still taste truly refreshing.Style of Vinho Verde: the goal is to be a light-bodied wine with less than 11 ½ % alcohol unless Alvarinho is used, which produces higher alcohol wines at 12-13%.Subregions: There are 6 subzones, and Moncao is one of the most important; Alvarinho dominates here.
Production: Although the region is known for its white wines, 50% of production is reds.
Fun facts: Although Vinho Verde means “green wine”, the green name refers to the fact that the wines should be drunk young.

Bairrada lies just south of Vinho Verde, also on the Atlantic.Bairrada two ounce pour:Climate: Maritime, DampTopography: low hillsSoils: Area named after the clay soils; there is some limestone contentGrapes: Baga (red) which has many of the same characteristics as Nebbiolo; and Bical (white) which is also no wallflower: it is a nutty white with high acidity and high alcohol.Styles: Baga was traditionally fermented with the stems which added tannins to the wine; but today styles are less tannic, but still peppery and high in acidity.Fun stuff: The region is named after the Portuguese name for clay; In the mid 1700s, Pombal ordered the vineyards of Bairrada uprooted because the wines threatened to compete with Douro wines.

Estremadura lies below Bairrada. It is not a DOC, but a Vinho Regional – which is like France’s Vin de Pays classification. Innovative winemaking can take place; regulations are less strict than for DOCs. Since we are talking about Vinho Regionals, the other ones in Portugal are:

Minho – within Vinho Verde
Tras-os-Montes – for Douro
Beiras – for Dao and Bairrada
Ribatejano – for Ribatejo
Alentejano – for Alentejo
Terras do Sado
Madeira
As with the Vin de Pays, winemakers love the freedom and use the VR if they want to bottle wines young, or blend with international varieties. In the center and south of Portugal, many are ignoring the DOCs and even the second legal level of wine classification, the IPR, to bottle creative and innovative wine styles under the Vinho Regional classification.

Just in from Estremadura is Ribatejo. It is near Lisbon and on the Tejo river, getting its name: riba tejo.Ribatejo two ounce pour:Climate: Hot MaritimeTopography: Influences from the River Tejo (also called Tagus River) which cuts diagonally across the subregion.Soils: Broad range of soils, but dominant clay towards the north, sandy in the southGrapes: Castelao (red) which is red raspberry, with good acidity and firm tannins; also Trincadeira – dark colored, plum and chocolate flavors; Fernao Pires (white) is a neutral white wine.Production: Fernao Pires accounts for 40% of the vineyard area.

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Palmela sits below Ribatejo.Palmela two ounce pour:Climate: Warm Maritime; warm winters, warm summersSoils: limestone hills with sandy plains.Grapes: Around 70% is Perquita (which is the same grape as Ribatejo’s Castelnau.)
Fernao Pires is used to make soft, dry whites. Cabernet Sauvignon is permitted here.Styles: Perquita is used for many different styles, including sparkling wine.Viticulture: The grapes are cropped high; vines trained on low wires to allow for mechanization.Winemaking: modern: stainless steel and temperature control widely used
There are a high percentage of DOC wines here.

Let’s go North East, across from Vinho Verde, where we find the Douro. Long the most famous region of Portugal for its Port, table wines are now being feted as something to regard.

Douro DOC two ounce pour:Climate: More continental here but Maritime influences reach the west of Douro.Soils: schist and granite; rocky hillsGrapes: There are 80 varieties in the Douro alone. Some of the most popular grapes are:Red: Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz (which is Tempranillo) are the star grapesWhite: Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Viosinho and Rabigato
Viticulture is labor intensive and expensive due to steep terracesSubregions: Cima Congo – considered to produce the best grapes; Baixo Corgo – lower graded; and Douro Superiore.
Legal Stuff: The legal boundaries for the table wines of the Douro are the same as for Port. Traditionally, Port production is limited every year, and any grapes that can not be used for Port are used for table grapes. Table wine was purely a secondary product. Not so today–vineyards are specifically designated for table wines. 50% of the vineyards are designated for Port and 50% for quality light (not fortified) wine.

Below the Douro and to the right of Bairrada is the Dao. Indigenous varietals reign supreme here.Dao DOC two ounce pour:Climate: Maritime with Continental as you go inland from the Atlantic. Long, warm summers with lots of winter rain.Topography: Dao lies on a plateau at 200-400 meters high; the region is sheltered on all sides by high granite mountainsSoils: granite dominates in the north and schist and sand in the southGrapes: Touriga Nacional and the other Douro grapes are also used here. The region is known for Jaen, however, which is a deeply colored wine with light tannins. Encruzado is a full-bodied and nutty flavored white wine.
Other stuff: When then ruler, Salazar, instituted co-operatives around the country, quality fell in the Douro. Today, these wines are being marketed as some of the best table wines in Portugal. Not everyone agrees with this assessment, but the wines are certainly getting there.
Production: 80% of the wines are red

The South East of Portugal is dominated by the Alentejo subregion. This region uses indigenous and international varieties.Alentejo two ounce pour:Climate: Continental. Hot summers, low rainfall. Drought can be an issue here. There are 3,000 hours of sunshine a year, and irrigation and other modern methods allow for viticulture.Soils: Loam soils with granite and schist, but also sand and clayGrapes: For whites:
Roupeiro is a floral and honeyed flavored wine which oxidizes easily; it is drunk young.
Antao Vaz is an important variety here. It is drought resistant. Wines are full bodied, aromatic, often with tropical fruit. Winemaking can include some oak aging.
Arinto (which is the same grape as Vinho Verde’s Paderna) is usually added to blends for its acidity. It has high acidity with floral and fruity aromas and flavors.
Reds:
Aragonez – (same grape as Tempranillo) which likes hot climates. Wines are concentrated with high alcohol, low acidity when grapes are grown in this dry climate, sandy and clay soils. Wines can age well. Often used for blending.
Castelau also likes hot, dry climates and produces concentrated, raspberry flavored wines here that age well.
Trincadeira: is a dark colored wine, with plum chocolate and coffee notes.
Viticulture: traditionally bush vines, but moving towards wire for mechanization. Yields are low and the area is experimenting with canopy management.
Winemaking: There are still ancient cement presses and other old cellar equipment used in the area, but very little. Modern technology has taken over. Red wines are fermented at a pretty low temperature, and many whites are fermented on their skins for a period of time.

See how incredible this wine country is? What is not to love about wines with plum, chocolate and coffee aromas and flavors as with the Trincadeira? Or the floral and honeyed Roupeiro? The soft, raspberry fruit of the Castelau? It is time for a sipping tour, wine glass in hand, to be had of the country.