Be aware that some LCDs have been known to display unstable 3D pictures ...

Greetings Rolls-Royce,

Can the unstability you mentioned be reduced/eliminated by canceling the LCD display internal frame doubling (120Hz-->60Hz) ?

I recently bought a bunch of RF glasses from 3D-VIP (Consignia) for my new Optoma HD25e 3D projector, and I am very tempted to purchase a 3D Theater+ for the living room LCD (an older Sammy LN52B610 with internal frame doubling to 120Hz).

Can the unstability you mentioned be reduced/eliminated by canceling the LCD display internal frame doubling (120Hz-->60Hz) ?

I recently bought a bunch of RF glasses from 3D-VIP (Consignia) for my new Optoma HD25e 3D projector, and I am very tempted to purchase a 3D Theater+ for the living room LCD (an older Sammy LN52B610 with internal frame doubling to 120Hz).

Cheers,

'nose

I tried that with our bedroom Sony LCD, and still had the instability. I believe the TV is still modifying the picture's sync once the data stream enters its circuitry in order to manipulate it and add the interpolated frames for the "120 Hz" and "motion smoothing" operations, even with those functions off. Since the VIP and all other such components produce the 3D glasses sync before the TV gets the signal, there can be some divergence between the glasses and display. If your set actually fully turns off the internal processing, you probably wouldn't have the issue.

It should, but there aren't any guarantees. Your PJ is an LCOS model, and earlier in this thread there was a poster with a JVC RS-1-also LCOS-who never could get his to work satisfactorily with the VIP equipment. If the core of your PJ is the same as his, you may have the same issues.

I think your choice of glasses is going to be important. The VIP/Optoma/EStar RF glasses and emitters can be adjusted on-the-fly to reduce ghosting. Contact VIP directly for hints and tips about setting things up with your PJ.

So I just got everything today. Trying to figure out how to fix the flickering problem. The screen flickers like crazy and it also shows 720p/60. Help would be appreciated while I try to figure this out. Thanks!

UPDATE!
The action scenes seems to blur a little i am not sure if that's what you call, "crosstalk". Wondering if there's anyway to tweak and fix that.

It's not crosstalk. You see crosstalk as a ghost image or fringe on still or moving objects. IMHO, it's because you're taking a moving image that is normally updated 60X per second in 2D and updating it 30X (per eye) per second. The slower updates mean blur.

I figured. Thanks Rolls! Now I am just trying to get everything the way I like it.

Another thing...The Bit Cauldron utility's option to "Switch Left/Right Lenses", is that where it focuses on a either your left or right eye for 3D comfort? I tried it and I can feel that it strains one eye more than the other. Is there a way to do it where it feels more natural and comfortable when looking at the 3D? Could you explain? Thanks!

I figured. Thanks Rolls! Now I am just trying to get everything the way I like it.

Another thing...The Bit Cauldron utility's option to "Switch Left/Right Lenses", is that where it focuses on a either your left or right eye for 3D comfort? I tried it and I can feel that it strains one eye more than the other. Is there a way to do it where it feels more natural and comfortable when looking at the 3D? Could you explain? Thanks!

"Switch Left/Right" is for when the glasses sync gets reversed. I've seen it happen between sessions, or between programs. You'll lose a proper 3D image, get eyestrain in one or more eyes (as you've noticed), etc. If you take the glasses off and put them on upside-down and everything looks/feels better, then sync has reversed. I call up the program's popup menu while checking sync-you'll get a 2D look or see more ghosting, feel crosseyed, etc., if sync is out.

Now I have another predicament...This whole time I've been testing movies with my sound down because I've been working on it late and I didn't want to wake anyone in the house. Today I decided to turn up my audio and the audio isn't right. I put in movies like The Avengers and I'll lose some audio like when a person speaks. Also my amp isn't even lit up. I use a receiver and everything is connected to it. This is the receiver I have. http://usa.denon.com/us/product/refu...sref/avr3313ci Sorry, Royce for keep asking questions, but do you know why it's doing this?

Now I have another predicament...This whole time I've been testing movies with my sound down because I've been working on it late and I didn't want to wake anyone in the house. Today I decided to turn up my audio and the audio isn't right. I put in movies like The Avengers and I'll lose some audio like when a person speaks. Also my amp isn't even lit up. I use a receiver and everything is connected to it. This is the receiver I have. http://usa.denon.com/us/product/refu...sref/avr3313ci Sorry, Royce for keep asking questions, but do you know why it's doing this?

This could be due to receiver setup. Check to see if Dynamic Volume or Dynamic EQ is enabled. If they are, they can change the sound balance as volume goes up. I'd recommend turning them off, unless you normally listen at low volume.

Is your Theater + before or after the receiver? Can you check the firmware version on the Theater +? I ask because I had one of the first + units "in the wild", and the firmware it shipped with wouldn't correctly pass DTS-MA HD (the audio on most 3D titles, of course). I contacted VIP and they had new working firmware out to me in a week that corrected the problem. I'd hope that all the + units had received the new firmware, but if yours has been on the shelf for a while, it might not have. Contact Jonathan at VIP.

This could be due to receiver setup. Check to see if Dynamic Volume or Dynamic EQ is enabled. If they are, they can change the sound balance as volume goes up. I'd recommend turning them off, unless you normally listen at low volume.

Is your Theater + before or after the receiver? Can you check the firmware version on the Theater +? I ask because I had one of the first + units "in the wild", and the firmware it shipped with wouldn't correctly pass DTS-MA HD (the audio on most 3D titles, of course). I contacted VIP and they had new working firmware out to me in a week that corrected the problem. I'd hope that all the + units had received the new firmware, but if yours has been on the shelf for a while, it might not have. Contact Johnathan at VIP.

Blu-ray player HDMI OUT to HDMI IN of the VIP+. Then VIP+ HDMI OUT to HDMI IN of the Blu-ray slot in the back of the receiver. Sorry, how does one check to see what firmware is on the VIP+?

Blu-ray player HDMI OUT to HDMI IN of the VIP+. Then VIP+ HDMI OUT to HDMI IN of the Blu-ray slot in the back of the receiver. Sorry, how does one check to see what firmware is on the VIP+?

Oops. I forgot you need the VIP upgrade utility to do that. There is one for the Theater on the Curt Palme forum website. You can't use it to upgrade the Plus, but IIRC it will tell you the firmware version that is currently installed.

I'd suggest you also go back through the audio settings for your Blu-Ray input to make sure it's correctly set up to play back DTS-HD MA. BTW, the output of the VIP products is actually HDMI 1.3, so it works fine with non-3D capable receivers like my Onkyo. You won't see an indication that the receiver is in 3D mode, because it isn't.

Oops. I forgot you need the VIP upgrade utility to do that. There is one for the Theater on the Curt Palme forum website. You can't use it to upgrade the Plus, but IIRC it will tell you the firmware version that is currently installed.

I'd suggest you also go back through the audio settings for your Blu-Ray input to make sure it's correctly set up to play back DTS-HD MA. BTW, the output of the VIP products is actually HDMI 1.3, so it works fine with non-3D capable receivers like my Onkyo. You won't see an indication that the receiver is in 3D mode, because it isn't.

Royce I would like to say I finally got everything working! I am jumping with joy!!! After spending like 5 hours messing with everything possible trying to get the sound to work right, I decided to call it a night and head to bed. I was so frustrated and decided to keep on reading about anything VIP related. Then I came across someone who posted that his Sony BD player was preventing him 5.1 to his AVR. He posted that he fixed it when he turned off BD audio Mix in his audio setting for his BD player. So I was like hm, I have a Sony BD player as well, but I doubt that'll work...I went back at it and tried it anyways...and fixed! I really appreciate you helping me, thank you. I'll leave you alone now!

Royce I would like to say I finally got everything working! I am jumping with joy!!! After spending like 5 hours messing with everything possible trying to get the sound to work right, I decided to call it a night and head to bed. I was so frustrated and decided to keep on reading about anything VIP related. Then I came across someone who posted that his Sony BD player was preventing him 5.1 to his AVR. He posted that he fixed it when he turned off BD audio Mix in his audio setting for his BD player. So I was like hm, I have a Sony BD player as well, but I doubt that'll work...I went back at it and tried it anyways...and fixed! I really appreciate you helping me, thank you. I'll leave you alone now!

I'm glad you got it sorted out. I forgot about player settings-I don't have a Sony player and am not familiar with them. Back in the early days of Blu-Ray and HD DVD, you had to make sure to turn off what was then called "secondary audio" (menu sounds, etc.) to play back Dolby TrueHD. Regular DD 5.1 worked just fine, but the HD stuff needed all the audio pipeline bandwidth.

So I found out today that you don't actually have to reverse polarity on the emitter, instead you can just adjust the delay tuning and lens duty cycle tuning until the 3D looks right. My question is...does it matter which way you do it? I hope my question makes sense. Like before I used to reverse polarity every time I put in a movie because the 3D is always wrong, but now I realized that if you move it around you can actually make the 3D look right and then save it. It won't jump next time you put in a movie and have to reverse again.

On my CRT, it does matter. Taking one control too far results in a dark green band on the top of the screen, while moving the other too far makes a light blue band pop up on the bottom of the screen. This is in addition to the changes in brightness and crosstalk...

Duty cycle usually adjusts the brightness of the image, while delay adjusts crosstalk.

I want to boost my VPL-VW40 to project in 3D and considering this as an option.

- Has anyone used this device with the VPL-VW40?
- Is this Active 3D and not Passive?
- Does anyone know about the physical lens kit that can be mounted on the VPL-VW40 lens to manually alter it to Passive 3D?

I want to boost my VPL-VW40 to project in 3D and considering this as an option.

- Has anyone used this device with the VPL-VW40?
- Is this Active 3D and not Passive?
- Does anyone know about the physical lens kit that can be mounted on the VPL-VW40 lens to manually alter it to Passive 3D?