Specs

Tips

Once suction has been obtained, "bump" the milker into the udder - similar to the motion a lamb would make if nursing.

When suction is obtained - try positioning the milker from various angles (also apply the "bump" concept while doing this).

Try a few more squeezes than is advised if milk flow slows.

For animals with small teats: The package with rubber inserts (#556111) is needed or you can purchase inserts individually (#556115 or #556116). For goats order quart bottles (#556112).

How to Use

ATTENTION!! Silicone Inserts, (Liners)

Please read this Product information thoroughly.

At EZ Animal Products we are continually listening to our customers and are always trying to upgrade the Udderly EZ Milkers.We have found better Silicone Inserts to go into the #2 (large) extraction tube.

The top part of the Silicone Insert is flared at the point where it goes into the top of the hard plastic tube. This virtually eliminates any air leakage from around the top of the tube. (And is easier to assemble) Both the large and small Silicone Inserts fit into the same #2 Tube. (They will not fit into the #1 Tube) We are still including the #1 Tube into each kit because in some instances you may want to use it without an insert. Besides one being bigger than the other, each hard plastic tube is embossed with the number on the front of it.

Please Note: When inserting the large Silicone Liner into the #2 Tube, once you have it seated, you will notice that the top of it is still a little above the top lip of the extractor tube. Just push it down and it will seat around the top of the extractor tube. We will show this in the instructional video that we are working on at the present

It is still possible to milk most any animal without the inserts but they stop the possibility of any milk/colostrum from getting drawn into the pump.

REMEMBER!! Both silicone inserts now fit into only the #2 hard plastic extractor tube.

Listed below are recommended optional components or related items. Your particular situation may require alternative recommendations. Please call and talk to our consultants if there are any questions at 800-282-6631.

Write a Review

So far so good. The pump works well on hard to handle ewes. I got more milk/colostrum than I ever got by milking by hand. The device is all plastic but seems to be holding up well for me. I like the ease of handling the pump and assembly. One of my ewe's teats was too large to fit in the plastic sleeve provided with the pump; but it seems to do okay without it (no leaking into the pump). I agree with a prior review -- the price of the pump is about the value of 1 saved lamb; so, it's a good investment. I wish some of the parts were metal for durability, instead of plastic. But overall this is a great product.

Udderly EZ™ Milker

★★★★★

May 2, 2016

Lisa
from Missouri

I LOVE my EZ Milker, so ordered a replacement bottle for it. I don't recommend using the bottles as feeding bottles, only for collection. They don't hold up to being frozen or warmed up.

Udderly EZ™ Milker

★★★★★

April 29, 2016

Lerace L
from Virginia

Wonderful till the dog ate the tube part that tasted like milk. My fault for setting it on the counter rather than in the sink.
I now have the new part but lambing for me is over this year. I will be buying another and parts next year.

Udderly EZ™ Milker

★★★★★

April 14, 2016

Jean-Francois S
from Maryland

We used the pump on our lactating ewes. The pump worked very well for a few days, but unfortunately the pump is not sturdy. The plastic parts, mainly the clip holding the bottle and the pump attachement broke very quickly. There has to be a redesign of that clip using a metal part that can lock and not get broken when the ewes fight it a bit.

Udderly EZ™ Milker

★★★★★

January 14, 2015

Jackie L
from Virginia

Okay- so I fought this for a long time. I only milk ewes for a supply of colostrum to keep on hand or if the lambs seem weak- I am not using this to make cheese or milk cows. It seems a little pricey for a milker. I can hand milk for free, I even tried a breast pump that I got for $20. I got kicked, upset the ewes, lambs got stepped on and almost always ended with swears and tears. My business partner told me his was a great time saver (he uses one for every ewe in his 30 ewe operation). My husband told me it was worth the price if it saved one lamb. So, before lambing last year I purchased one.
I should have purchased one sooner! Once you get the hang of it- it is fantastic. Put it on the teat, pump it just until the milk starts to flow, pump it two more times then hold it so it just hangs on the teat- the milk flows out. If the ewe kicks it off- no spilled milk to cry over- you just pick up the unit and get back to work. I have a few ewes that will just not let down their milk, but do just fine with their lambs (they have milk- it just won't pump out). But in most cases- it works great!
I used it a bunch last season and my neighbor borrowed it a bunch too. I just used it on my first ewe this season and it is still working great! I cannot believe I fought it for so long!

About Conductivity

Conductivity measures the amount of electrical current a material can carry. The opposite measure is known as resistance.

Many of Premier’s nets feature a green and white superconductor that has both stainless steel and tinned copper filaments for optimal conductivity. These “premium” nets are 10 times more conductive (38 ohms per 1000') than our “basic” nets. This enables the electric pulse to travel much farther and be less affected by weed contact.

We do not recommended the basic nets listed below for fences exceeding 500 ft in length:

Customers who are unhappy with netting are often those who’ve chosen one of these or their farmstore equivalents. Why do we offer them? Because they are similar in design and conductivity (380 ohms) to nets from our competitors—and comparisons make decisions easier.

Types of Line Posts

Line posts are built into the net. Three options are available.*

Single Spike (SS)The best choice, unless your soils are always soft or very hard.

Double Spike (DS)Posts allow you to push in the spikes with your foot. When soil is hard or rocky, double spikes are more difficult to install and remove.

Drivable Posts (DP)Allows use of a mallet or dead blow hammer for installing posts in dry, hard or rocky soil. Features a “spike stop” for extra support and internal fiberglass ribs for added strength.

Tip: To insert a line post into frozen or hard soil, use a power tool to drill pilot holes.

* Not all fences have all line post options.

About Positive/Negative (Pos/Neg) Nets

Is your area dry?

Conventional electrified fence systems rely on soil moisture to be effective. However, not all areas have the required moisture.

To overcome this, Pos/Neg nets* are wired to allow the use of every other horizontal strand as an extension of the ground terminal. Because half the strands are connected to the ground terminal or ground rod, reliance on soil moisture is reduced. A PowerLink must be purchased separately to make the secondary ground connection.

How it works…

In order to receive a shock, the animal must touch both a positive (hot) and negative (grounded) strand at the same time. This will deliver more pain to the animal than an all hot net (Pos/Pos) because moisture in the soil is not required to complete the circuit.

Pos/Neg fences can be converted to Pos/Pos in moist conditions. Remember, all fences must be kept free of vegetation.

* Not all fences have Pos/Neg options.

Line Post Spacing

“Plus” nets—6'8" spacings between line posts

Standard nets—10' or 12' spacings between line posts

Essential Energizer Advice

Buy a larger energizer than necessary. When the fence pleases, most folks will buy more fence—and need additional output.