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Hi my name is Rick,
I have a 1990 525i E34 and the clutch went out on it I was just wondering if anyone had any suggestion and or tips when i go to replace the Clutch Kit. I recently helped my uncle replace a clutch on his 74 Ford F-150 and I'm hoping that this Clutch replacement isn't nearly as a pain in the butt as it was on his truck. Please lemme know as i am doing this tomorrow morning and going to start prep this eve. Your advice and opinions would be much appreciated. Please and Thank you in advance

I wish I could afford one of them but that's just not possible lololol an I've already commuted to my BMW. It's probably the first new clutch it's ever had considering it's used and only had 147,000 miles on it when I purchased it. It now has 167087 I out 20,000+ miles in just over a year!!! I drive a lot and love my BMW!!!!

I have done the clutch on e34 535i, which got me scratching my head a bit with the bolts on top of the bell housing. The best tip I can give you is loosen the the motor mounts and drop the engine as low as possible (I.e. tilt the engine) to get better access to the torx bolts at the top. Now the 535i has an m30 engine which has the longest block (guessing) so I had to do this in order to get access to the bolts (They should be 10 and 13 torx). m50 is a shorter block (again not sure, just by comparing 2.5 to 3.5), so you might be able to get access without lowering motor. Got way with it on an M42. Ease of removing the tranny depends on the length of the block. Bentley does not say anything about lowering the engine. Long extensions and wobley's won't be a bad idea. BTW watch out for the bolts holding the pressure plate, they are Allen heads and are real easy to strip if they are been on that long.

Unless that Ford was a 4X4 I cannot think of an easier clutch job. You'll not enjoy the BMW's integral bell housing. Fortunately the whole gearbox is only about 70#.
looong extensions are your friend when removing the trans bolts. Be SURE the clutch disc is properly aligned. Get yourself some extra bolts with the heads cut off to serve as alignment pins when re-installing the trans. Chamfer the ends and cut a groove so you can back them out with a screwdriver if they bind.
Dropping the exhaust is the most objectionable part for me here in the rust belt.
Enjoy!

Thanks for all Y'all's help I really appreciate all that info. I know it's been months since I've replied my bad. Had a couple month vacation that came worth free jewelry any who I've been busting my butt in trying to get this done ever with a supposed master mechanic we are stuck. I cannot get the clutch to shift transmission into gear. Yes it was my first time bleeding a hydraulic clutch and pain in my ass figuring it out but still won't do anything. Any suggestions?