A forum for the discussion of matters of a technical nature. All such activities are undertaken at the readers discretion and own risk. If you don't know what you are doing, don't blame us if it all goes wrong!

Hi if anyone can help?i got a Concorde 2 a few days ago,my problem is the cases are in a bad state,front and bezel r fine.If anyone has sprayed cases b4 would be good to hear what u used.Obviously it’s black,but many varieties of black Also is it Matt?Thanks,spraying isn’t my thing so any help much appreciated.

Yes have seen it,I am not after those results just to tidy cases up.He doesn’t tell u what paint he uses,only don’t use Halfords spray stuff!so what do u use,I know he does it satin black then black gloss but what brand?its a smooth finish,like I said iam not doing a restoration just tidying up the cases.

It's Poundworld that's in trouble, Poundland should be okay. The 99p shop's went a while back I believe.

Ours does grey primer, gloss black, gloss white, satin black and matt black at times. They're not too bad quality-wise but the pattern is a bit spattery...but what do you expect for a quid. On this particular occasion, that wouldn't be a bad thing.

Primer it, satin black it, flick gloss black off the end of a stubby brush on it for the real-deal effect if you wish then let it dry for a few hours. Then coat in satin clear lacquer for a bit of protection

It’s only to tidy the cases up,not botherd about textured finish,yes I will strip the paint,primer,black satin and then black gloss,does that sound ok?Everyone thanks for all help,I was just going to buy a black spray and that was it!now I know the correct way,why is Halfords spray no good?am just going off the guy who did the fantastic job on the hygain

I've also used Carplan & Hycote brand Satin with decent results, cheap & cheerful.
I found the poundland paints never really cure properly.
If possible try to use same brand primer & paint. Sometimes different brands can react badly with each other.

Cheers everyone I will give it a go next week and if it goes ok I will put sum photos up on forum,don’t be expecting anything good,it’s not my thing but if I make a total mess I will send them for doing professionally.

A quick tip or two - let go of the nozzle at the end of each sideways stroke or you'll possibly build up too much paint at the ends and risk runs.

Start the spray a few inches from the item and let go a few inches past it.

The tendency will be to do most of the action with your wrist, but try and keep your wrist still and let your arm swing control the spraying (more important with metallics as a rule though). It's only cases though so you'll be fine.

Best to do lots of fine layers with a few minutes drying time inbetween, rather than one or two thick coats and risks runs.

Pop the casings onto say a small box so you don't have any edges stick.

Coat the edges all round first gently, then do the sides and the main surface last.

Try spraying from about 8-10 inches away with quick passes at first until you get the coverage right for each fine coat.

Don't spray outside if it's windy, or inside a draughty garage etc where dust could be whipped up onto the paint.

You can use a hot-air gun to speed-up the drying process inbetween coats (and avoid "blooming" in the cold), but in this weather you shouldn't need it. Don't let it fully cure though between coats though for days, as the next layer won't bond to it as easily and you could risk flaking in tbe future. You may have to lightly rub it all down with wet 1200 grit wet&dry paper to get a "key" otherwise.

A clean oven on about 40 degrees will bake it all on, especially after the final coat of satin lacquer.

Google and Youtube will aid you if you're not sure about anything. I'm not an expert on paint other than having sprayed about 35-40 radios in my time, so others may have different or better ways of doing it.

Give it a go. If you mess it up, you can always rub it off and start again