As regards the drawing, no hurry... I'd definitely like to try drawing something like that myself. I'm not going to purchase a CNC machine, I'll have the parts made by a modelers-friendly company. I'd just have to mail them the Autocad file and they'll take care of the rest. The beetle kit is a mix between Revell's 2013 moulding of the "limousine" and its 2013 moulding of the convertible. Only by mixing parts such as bumpers, tail lights etc. will I be able to achieve a realistic effect. I've been scratching a full new rear suspension and that's been a lot of fun. The kit numbers are 07083 and 07078. If you want to follow my progress feel free to check here: http://www.modelbouwen.be/threads/11373-Volkswagen-Kever-1970
It's in Dutch but as you're used to from me on this forum I'm using a lot of pics that should mostly speak for themselves.
If you happen to have a few high-res pics of the underside of the transaxle, suspension and engine I'd be most appreciative. Nobody seems to have ever taken any picture from underneath their beetle.
While we're being offtopic, I'm excited to tell you guys that I'm planning a November trip to Telford! Hope to be able to encounter a few forum members there and surely a lot of nice models.
So that's about all the news from here

The build is currently at a standstill. I was trying out some things and they really didn't go well. So I decided I'd take on an intermediary practice project and that's something completely different: a VW Beetle. Of course that's got to be detailed also. But better to make some errors and deficiencies there than at a multiple years-project such as the 111.
Meanwhile I've decided that in order to maintain my sanity I'll have the numerous bomb bay parts CNC-precut. That won't cost too much money, the cuts will be without faults and most importantly it won't take me tens of hours. So I will be able to concentrate on the detailing bits.
Now I'll only have to draw them in Autocad or so, perhaps if you'll have the drawing ready you can send me a PM; if I'll be ready earlier then that's no problem because I really like to learn Autocad or the likes.
When the Beetle will be ready I'll post some pictures and I'll continue my research re. the CNC-cutting. Then I'll continue the bomb bay.

If you're really a photo etch lover it's better to order Eduard's set anyway. It includes Revell's photoetch (as produced by Eduard!) and a bit more. Eduard's own-brand photo etch interior set has some extras.

Marvelous piece of workmanship!
I must admit, not recognizing the "BDU-33" typology, upon clicking this thread I expected a giant model airplane to virtually crash through my computer screen.
Luckily it turns out to be just a baby bomb. Very nice! Your friend must be very happy with this beauty.

Here's a link to another thread on this forum: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=36077&page=2
Apparently Revell employees have stated that the kits are equal except for the decal sheet (see last post).
I don't get how the one set could have 250 parts and the other 433. Looking at the Revell stash, I'd say it's DEFINITELY more than 250 pieces. Haven't counted them but 433 looks more realistic a number.
Confirmation of 433 pieces: http://www.themodellingnews.com/2011/08/revell-he-111p-1-in-132-scale-or-honey.html
Here is a nice thorough inbox review of the Pro Modeler kit: http://www.internetmodeler.com/scalemodels/flaviation/Revell-Pro-Modeler-1-32-Heinkel-He-111P-1.php
and it mentions a part number "277". Of course that doesn't give the final answer to the question how many parts there are but it's at least a hint that there are more than the 250 as alleged by Sprue Bros.
I can't find any other '250 parts' reference for the Pro Modeler kit so it might just be that Sprue Bros made a guess; more so, because Pro Modeler itself doesn't tell the correct number of parts.
Looking at the Pro Modeler sprues more in detail I'd say the fuselage halves look definitely the same as Revell's. And certain very typical errors (for example the bomb bay front / back parts, on which the designer made a thinking mistake; see the second picture of the following post: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=548311) are copied into Pro Modeler's kit. Looking at all the sprues it seems at first and second glance that these kits look perfectly equal, plastic-wise.
If I were you I'd have no trouble purchasing the Pro Modeler kit OR the Revell kit, whatever works best for you as regards decals. Interestingly the Pro Modeler's version has swastikas for example. The Revell kit can't have that because the kit is produced by Revell Germany and for political reasons they are not allowed to print swastikas. In the US that's a bit easier.
The Eduard photo etch metal sets will 99% sure work with the Pro Modeler kit. By the way, you'll still have to scratch-mod some of them a bit to fit them. For example, if you were to purchase the bomb bay (contrary to making one yourself, see my thread before you decide to purchase Eduard's version... althought it's an improvement to Revell's version it still has its flaws), you'll have to add a bit of plastic or the whole thing won't fit. See Nigel's thread on that matter, elsewhere on this forum.
Bottom line, buy either the Revell or the Pro Modeler and the aftermarket parts will (100% sure as regards Revell, 99% sure as regards Pro Modeler) fit, sometimes after some required scratch modifications.
I hope this answer is helpful to you.

What I see is that the Pro Modeler has 250 parts whereas the Revell has 433 parts.
Sources:
http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/rmx855628-os.htm
http://www.revell.com/germany/aircraft/80-4696.html#.UzdfFWRDuhM
After some more education after my first educated guess, my newest educated guess is that (in line with David's remark) Pro Modeler's version is a simplified version of Revell's kit.
The only thing I can't figure out then is why you'd want to pay about as much for the Pro Modeler as you would for the, apparently more detailed, Revell.

Also not a very terrifying small scratchbuild is the raising of the bomber's seat. See same post as linked above. The seat is way too low. If you have that ambition I'd recommend to correct that as well.

Very good that you didn't attach the yoke yet. As you'll notice it doesn't align with the seat. Not very difficult to correct that.
See what I mean in the second picture of this post: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526418
Instead of cutting the tube as depicted in that pic, you could for example add a small piece of rectangle to the rectangle holding the yoke.