Friday, February 18, 2011

Gant By Michael Bastian F/W 2011

Ok-k-kay, I'm back from Las Vegas and as Terrance would say, "I'm here now. Pardon my lateness." As I have previously mentioned on Twitter, Gant by Michael Bastian F/W 2011 was one of the few "fashion" things going on during NYFW that I not only had an interest in, but was really looking forward to. The presentation was very well done and absolutely packed with all the names and faces Tumblr kids absolutely lose their shit over. So, yeah, I was happy that I got to experience the collection in an atmosphere that was buzzing and probably on some fire marshal's radar. Now, onto the clothes. I knew beforehand that the vibe was going to be Bastian's version of Americana, but seen through a European lens - a Scandinavian one, to be specific, thanks to Team MB's constant jaunts to Gant's Stockholm headquarters. What they set out to accomplish they definitely succeeded in doing and anyrecapthat you happen to read is going to say just that. The whole L.L. Bean by way of Sweden vibe speaks to Bastian and co.'s ability to synthesize various ideas in a way that fits in with what his customer, the constantly referenced "Michael Bastian guy", has come to expect and appreciate. A collection firmly rooted in two very distinct styles shouldn't work and shouldn't work well, but I guess that is what separates Bastian from the countless other designers working today who lots of us menswear nerds casually dismiss. As in each successive season (in both his Gant and namesake line) Michael has built upon his version of American sportwear, while continuing to push the envelope into ambitious territory at the same time. For me, F/W 2011 was great because it was a little rougher around the edges than his past two Gant collections - a little more unpolished and I mean that in the best way possible. Both Bastian and Christopher Bastin, the designer of Gant Rugger, have mentioned gang imagery as reference points recently and I think some of that comes across here. No one will deny that the styling was bold, busy and bombastic, a Bastian signature, but looking at the individual pieces on their own reveals a F/W 2011 collection that is extremely wearable, well made and damn stylish. At a verypivotal time in his career Michael was able to deliver his most ambitious collection for Gant yet and prove that betting against him, quite simply, is a foolish endeavor.

That’s one of the best puffy coats I’ve seen. Maybe I’m just too young, but the fingerless gloves have more of a derelict vibe than a gang vibe, as if the “Michael Bastian guy” wearing that coat also needs the dexterity to fish empty cans out of a dumpster.

The styling is awful, i've seen better styling at the gap or club monaco for crying out loud. I agree on the individual pieces looking 'wearable' but at the same time it looks very generic and like i've seen this too many times.

Must be me, but I don't get it. It all looks fine, sure, and it's certainly very well styled for the show. But I'm not buying the styling, I'm buying the clothes. And looking just at the clothes, there's nothing very different from the humdrum Club Monaco/J Crew/Urban Outfitters stuff we see everyday. The cardinal sweater? Sure, a nice twist on the traditional norwegian sweater, but Ralph/Rugby has been cranking those out for a couple of seasons already.

I mean, I read the article and all but, what the fuck were you saying? I don't know who's in charge of this blog but all I got from that 1000 word paragraph is that Bastian did a collection inspired by Scandinavia and LL Bean.

Nit picking about styling when you like the actual pieces is kind of pointless. I don't like the way Junya sends some looks down the runway, that doesn't mean I pan the whole collection.

Comparing Rugby to Gant by MB is like comparing...never mind, it's just real dumb.

Bringing up brands like J.Crew and Club Monaco is kind of a weak argument. One, I guarantee the cut/fit is totally different. Two, it's not even accurate. When have you seen either of these brands do a red shawl collar dinner jacket? Or the sweaters? The asymmetrical zipper on the blue puffer?

I'm all for a critique, but come on. At least actually look at the pieces.

The styling is actually very important. They make clothing and so how they put it together shows you what their vision is. If they would be selling eyewear or footwear then yeah the styling of the clothes is not that important but here it's key. And I don't really care for this styling, it's silly and a little bit ridiculous to be honest. They look like trendy fashion victims. I strive to know and own my classics and yes I go along with trends and like trends but to a certain degree. I'm not a woman.

Some of the pieces look great. Flannel suit: no brainer, puffer jacket looks cool but the zipper is too fashiony, navy double breasted coat is cool, dinner jacket nice. But the eyecatchers are too forced.

I agree, there are a couple of unique items. The red shawl DJ, sure. But angling the zipper is enough to make it a standout? Hardly. Let's look at the photos one by one...

1. Apart from the weird panelled green sweater, straight out of UO.2. As previously noted, the sweater has a nice motif.3. J Crew.4. Sweatpants and an overcoat. My dad has those. He just doesn't were 'em together. So the difference is in the styling.5. Embroidered chinos: see BB and Rugby for at least the past 3 years. The orange gilet is nice, but I'm a sucker for anything orange. Mine's from Orvis about 5 years go.6. Rugby.7. Tweed bomber jacket is nice but hardly unique.8. Is just a mess but if you wanted to you could pull this together at J Crew.9. A red anorak and brown cords.10. I'll concede, that cardigan is unusual.11. Camelhair blazer + camo + jeans. BB x Orvis x J Crew.12. Nothing special here.13. Sweater by Thom Brown, Sportcoat by Bookster.14. Rugby.15. The North Face (although it looks as if that piece has some kind of tail at the back which might make it interesting)16. Levi's.17. DB blazer are everywhere. Camo ditto.18. Oh yes, the angled zipper. 19. Gray tweed is not new. The pocket square is fun, and the layering is nice. Again, that's the styling, not the clothes.20. Agreed, this I have not seen before.

Granted, the cut will be better than the mass-market retailers. And the quality of fabric and construction also. They better be, given the respective price points. But in terms of imagination, in terms of LOOKS, I respectfully stick to my case. This show has great styling but the clothes do not move the needle.

Lawrence have you gained weight?http://s3.amazonaws.com/data.tumblr.com/tumblr_lguh7w3Yjp1qargt4o1_1280.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=0RYTHV9YYQ4W5Q3HQMG2&Expires=1298230150&Signature=8fDcbQ5G%2FSS%2FpbOjlgP9czZ8cbg%3DI think it's time for me to recommend you start the P90X workout training program. You don't want to have to buy your whole wardrobe all over again.

First of all this collections is the shit. Second this blog is dope! That being said what is up with all, and pardon my French, u cunts? And by cunt I'm speaking in terms of the persons talking all kinds of shit. Ya'll be drinking way too Haterade. Lack of humility??? Suck dick??? What The fuck??? Seriously go suck a bag of cancerous baby dicks you belching vaginas. Sorry for the rant but I just to come in defense of L.A.S. Keep up the good work brother!

I wonder if any of you menswear nerds actually have a life or if you just run through the usual blog roll and hate on every piece of info that is posted. You seriously take the fun out of it when you number each picture and critique each jacket or pant. God, how lame. I love a well dressed man, but if I knew behind closed doors he was fussing over his clothes like a little bitch we wouldn't be going out on a second date.

...and I have to agree with the above comment. The lack of class is appalling. Either way, this is one of my favorite blogs. So, keep up the good work.