2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, V1 E-Force Thread in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Originally Posted by sssnake
I will be moving to a super chiller once I complete the initial install and tune ...

Re: V1 E-Force Thread

I will be moving to a super chiller once I complete the initial install and tune so no major work to upgrade the HEX.

My initial inclination is to stay MAF but the final decision will be made after I get initial MAF dyno tune and talk with my tuner.

After working on my sons fbody I am seriously considering biting the bullet and finding an LSA short block and doing the engine build outside the car and then doing a motor swap. I'm just too damn old and impatient to do all of the gymnastics I did on his engine build.

I am shooting for about 10lbs of boost but that is really a nebulous number in my mind. Better engine flow lowers boost readings but improves performance so... You get my point.

It has been killing me to have all of these parts laying around gathering dust but my sons car has been inoperable for longer than it has worked.

Yeah, I know exactly what you mean. This build was a PITA and I have my own shop complete with lift and every tool that one would ever need (from my dealership days long ago). My problem was all the little crap I had to run out looking for (the tap and die set to re-thread the oil pressure sensor for example). It's done now though, and you'll have less issue's than I did.

I was thinking about the killer chiller as well, but will likely wait until summer gets here and I see what IAT's I have to make a final decision. They're much lower than they ever were with the Maggie. I don't know if that's in part to the more efficient intercoolers inside the E Force, or the huge dual pass HEX...or the combination of both of them. Guess we'll see this summer.

I would at a minimum try to install the rear steam vent as I did, they make several aftermarket kits for this however it's pretty easy using another front steam vent tube assembly and piping it into the existing line.

It is funny that you mention the coolant crossover pipe. My son wanted to ditch the old ls1 pcv system so we did the ls6 valley cover and associated mods. The one component we stuck with was the ls1 crossover tube. It had to be "adjusted" quite a bit to fit under his intake but we kept it for the same reasons you mentioned (hot spots on 7&8). I will come up with something to vent mine as well.

Builds finished? Numbers? Hows everything holding up. Im reading all these old builds trying to figure out what I want to do. I like the idea of keeping the ls6 and going fi but I dont think the maggie is enough for me...

Re: V1 E-Force Thread

Never had mine dyno'd since I do my own tuning. I now have more power than I think the Maggie could ever produce and am currently at 10 lbs of boost with cam and heads. I still have two pulley sizes and an OD crank pulley I can go when I get a forged shortblock. Unless you can get a complete Maggie for $3500-$4000 I wouldn't even consider it.

Re: V1 E-Force Thread

Here's the thing...FI serves to emulate larger displacement. To make power in an internal combustion engine you need oxygen, fuel, compression, and timing. Obviously, the more oxygen you can get into the the combustion chamber, the more fuel can be added, the more power you will ultimately make. You can employ a few different strategies here:
- Increase combustion chamber size to allow more oxygen under atmospheric pressure
- Use a compressor to pressurize the combustion chamber, thereby increasing available oxygen (Turbo; Supercharger)
- Use a chemical process to inject additional oxygen into the combustion chamber (N20)

The drawback of larger displacement is that you ALWAYS have the larger displacement, thus you will always have to fuel the additional displacement. Compressors allow a smaller, more fuel efficient engine to make comparable power and torque to a larger displacement engine without the handicap of excessive fuel consumption since the boost is load biased, and therefore not used in normal driving. If you're smart about it, you can spend about equal amounts of money and have similar performance and longevity between the two, however a smaller boosted engine will always be more fuel efficient. N20 is just a PITA to have to refill all the time, and it goes quick. It's very cheap, reliable power quickly though.

I am anticipating just forging the pistons and rods with a stock crank with stock displacement. I may end up having $2k in this endeavor. All told, I will still have less in my total build than if I were to purchase an LS7. Hope this answered all of your questions.

That's pretty impressive for only 6psi. What tune are you running? Is it a custom tune or is it an edlebrock stock tune for their blower? I'm guessing custom since an edlebrock tune would be very conservative.

whp - not into dyno racing (comparing my own measurements only) and yes I realize it is a pretty big number. I didn't check for corrections applied or anything else. Comparatively the stock engine was showing around 350hp and 370trq.

Re: V1 E-Force Thread

That horsepower value doesn't make sense, based on a simple sanity check. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level, and you're realizing an additional 6 psi. 350*((14.7+6)/14.7)= 493 RWHP.

At higher and higher boost pressures, this sanity check becomes increasingly non-conservative because it does not account for the decreasing density of the hot air charge and supercharger losses. For instance, it would predict that a 416 CID LS3 with 9:1 SCR (475 RWHP) would make 992 RWHP. But we know that that exact setup makes 750 RWHP on a V1.