Description

The name came from when the first ascentionist broke several key holds all at once during the crux sequence while way runout above a ledge and nearly took the big ride. (The rock has cleaned up since then.)

P1: 5.6 Start up a large, black, left-facing corner and belay at a sloping stance on a ledge (100').

P2: 5.10+ R. Climb up past a bush, and then traverse right to gain a hanging finger crack. Crank up the crack to a ledge then do thin, crux face moves up a vertical headwall. Continue to the top via easy climbing (200').

Protection

I think we did the first pitch of this route today, not knowing what it was. My partner led and set up an anchor with some gear. There were not anchors on the first big ledge at 55' for this one, but there were lots of places for gear. It's pretty easy to rap down off of the anchors for Coleman Direct if you chose to just do the first pitch. We thought it felt around 5.6 and was pretty fun.