It’s the steak that’s black and blue at Christopher’s

Christopher Gilmour, who founded Christopher’s American Grill in Covent Garden in 1991, returned the other day as a guest of the new owners, Ambar Paul and his daughter Anika.

He had an emotional reunion with his head chef, former Olympic triple jumper Francis Agyepong.

When he ordered a New York strip steak, Pittsburgh-style, the waiter didn’t know what he meant. “Don’t worry,” said Gilmour. “Francis will know.” And indeed he did. The steak was blue on the inside, charred black on the outside.