An interesting thing to keep in perspective is that the factor DME that a US car has on board has a built in Baro sensor that will help with detecting a baseline barometric pressure to account for weather. This does not read the pressure in the intake plenum.

If you look at the factoy set up for a CSL car, you will note that they also add in a second baro sensor on the vacuum rail. This sensor is used to assist in the tune, and may well be the reason that the factory doesn't worry too much about the risks of small and incremental postive pressure from a "Ram" effect.

With a reflashed AN tune on a stock factory computer, and a deletion of the factory HFM, there is no way to account for the extra air that might come in, and lean things out.

No axe to grind here, and of course it is always hard to argue with success, if people are happy, and it seems to work, most people accept that at face value, and go their merry way.

I personally put a baro sensor in the intake plenum to watch for this extra air when I put together a system for customers.

Just a thought, that is all.

Nice looking airbox, that is for sure! I have a customer running ebay headers, and stock intake plenum that is easily and way past 300 at the rear wheels for NASA racing. With that intake and exhaust, you guys should be way past that number on the standard dyno-jets

An interesting thing to keep in perspective is that the factor DME that a US car has on board has a built in Baro sensor that will help with detecting a baseline barometric pressure to account for weather. This does not read the pressure in the intake plenum.

If you look at the factoy set up for a CSL car, you will note that they also add in a second baro sensor on the vacuum rail. This sensor is used to assist in the tune, and may well be the reason that the factory doesn't worry too much about the risks of small and incremental postive pressure from a "Ram" effect.

With a reflashed AN tune on a stock factory computer, and a deletion of the factory HFM, there is no way to account for the extra air that might come in, and lean things out.

No axe to grind here, and of course it is always hard to argue with success, if people are happy, and it seems to work, most people accept that at face value, and go their merry way.

I personally put a baro sensor in the intake plenum to watch for this extra air when I put together a system for customers.

Just a thought, that is all.

Nice looking airbox, that is for sure! I have a customer running ebay headers, and stock intake plenum that is easily and way past 300 at the rear wheels for NASA racing. With that intake and exhaust, you guys should be way past that number on the standard dyno-jets

An interesting thing to keep in perspective is that the factor DME that a US car has on board has a built in Baro sensor that will help with detecting a baseline barometric pressure to account for weather. This does not read the pressure in the intake plenum.

If you look at the factoy set up for a CSL car, you will note that they also add in a second baro sensor on the vacuum rail. This sensor is used to assist in the tune, and may well be the reason that the factory doesn't worry too much about the risks of small and incremental postive pressure from a "Ram" effect.

With a reflashed AN tune on a stock factory computer, and a deletion of the factory HFM, there is no way to account for the extra air that might come in, and lean things out.

No axe to grind here, and of course it is always hard to argue with success, if people are happy, and it seems to work, most people accept that at face value, and go their merry way.

I personally put a baro sensor in the intake plenum to watch for this extra air when I put together a system for customers.

Just a thought, that is all.

Nice looking airbox, that is for sure! I have a customer running ebay headers, and stock intake plenum that is easily and way past 300 at the rear wheels for NASA racing. With that intake and exhaust, you guys should be way past that number on the standard dyno-jets

Alex, Welcome and great post. I completely agree with you on the above. My next step will be oem CSL engine wiring harness so the flap can operate and also the MAP sensor on the fuel rails can be installed. Then Evolve will do the tune again on the OEM CSL SW. I am just waiting to get my stepped headers and cat delete before i order these other parts needed for the conversion.

An interesting thing to keep in perspective is that the factor DME that a US car has on board has a built in Baro sensor that will help with detecting a baseline barometric pressure to account for weather. This does not read the pressure in the intake plenum.

If you look at the factoy set up for a CSL car, you will note that they also add in a second baro sensor on the vacuum rail. This sensor is used to assist in the tune, and may well be the reason that the factory doesn't worry too much about the risks of small and incremental postive pressure from a "Ram" effect.

With a reflashed AN tune on a stock factory computer, and a deletion of the factory HFM, there is no way to account for the extra air that might come in, and lean things out.

No axe to grind here, and of course it is always hard to argue with success, if people are happy, and it seems to work, most people accept that at face value, and go their merry way.

I personally put a baro sensor in the intake plenum to watch for this extra air when I put together a system for customers.

Just a thought, that is all.

Nice looking airbox, that is for sure! I have a customer running ebay headers, and stock intake plenum that is easily and way past 300 at the rear wheels for NASA racing. With that intake and exhaust, you guys should be way past that number on the standard dyno-jets

Hey Alex

Great to see you post here with a wealth of knowledge. I'm not sure if you remember me or not, but we exchanged a few messages back in the day on other forums. I'm also local to the Chicago area. Before going to AlphaN, I had some of the concerns that you mentioned. What convinced me to go ahead with a leap of faith was just the countless success of road and track cars running my similar setup. I still am rather curious about a baro sensor and how that can effect the potential of my tune, both in safety and power. I plan on discussing this with my tuner in the near future.

I am hoping to put down some strong numbers with my CF Airbox and Tune as well. With just headers and section 1, no other mods or tune, I put down about 300whp. Hopefully I can push out a healthy number with my new setup and decide what's next.

Welcome to the forums! Your experience and knowledge will be much appreciated here!

Thanks for the welcome. One typo, obviously I meant "Factory" not "Factor"

Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports

Alex, Welcome and great post. I completely agree with you on the above. My next step will be oem CSL engine wiring harness so the flap can operate and also the MAP sensor on the fuel rails can be installed. Then Evolve will do the tune again on the OEM CSL SW. I am just waiting to get my stepped headers and cat delete before i order these other parts needed for the conversion.

Locally Evolve works with VS Motorsports in Chicago, and I hear from the owner (whom I do work for on other projects), that they are getting great results. My understanding is that Evolve can do a fair amount of remote tuning for custom set ups, or, that they may already have a pretty extensive library of known tunes for different configurations so you can maximize your gains from the new hardware.

To be honest, without being able to interview the designers of the system, it is not easy to second guess the engineers that developed the project and find out why they used the second baro sensor on the CSL. It may have been that was the only way to get a stable idle, pass certain emissions, avoid problems from "ram" effect, or simply make sure that people that might modify even the CSL intake to open up to a modified headlight don't get in trouble with the A/F mix. My conjecture is just that. My concerns for my customers running AN stems from being conservative.

Originally Posted by flipm3

Hey Alex

Great to see you post here with a wealth of knowledge. I'm not sure if you remember me or not, but we exchanged a few messages back in the day on other forums. I'm also local to the Chicago area. Before going to AlphaN, I had some of the concerns that you mentioned. What convinced me to go ahead with a leap of faith was just the countless success of road and track cars running my similar setup. I still am rather curious about a baro sensor and how that can effect the potential of my tune, both in safety and power. I plan on discussing this with my tuner in the near future.

I am hoping to put down some strong numbers with my CF Airbox and Tune as well. With just headers and section 1, no other mods or tune, I put down about 300whp. Hopefully I can push out a healthy number with my new setup and decide what's next.

Welcome to the forums! Your experience and knowledge will be much appreciated here!

Not sure if you posted as "flipm3" in the past, and from this thread, I don't know your name, so I've no recollection at the moment. At any rate, I'm not suggesting that a baro sensor in the intake is likely to help make more power. Taking into account extra air that might enter at high speeds is potentially a safety issue, and the likelihood of this happening is of course VERY specific to how you duct and design the intake. I suppose as well, if a filter fouled badly, and there was a restricted draw across the filter, that might result in readings that would affect the pressure, and you'd have some safety there too.

The HFM is a very, very excellent way to measure the airflow (engine load), and if one could design one to be immune to turbulence, and calibrated properly to work in a larger diameter intake, it would be superior to any version of AN even one backed up with intake baro.... but its not that simple.