With its red-checkered tablecloths and perfectly organized clutter of
imported Italian foods, DiAmicois Italian Market Cafe´ is the kind
of Italian restaurant that could exist anywhere in the world except Italy.
This isnit to say that the food is inauthentic. Whatis served here at this
popular Rice Village eatery is authentic Italian-American cuisine at its
best.

A combination restaurant/deli/gourmet grocery store, DiAmicois concept
is just one of the things that set it apart from other places, according
to owner Nash DiAmico.

"Weire one of the few places around town that make our own fresh pasta
in house every day," DiAmico said.

Clients seem to appreciate the unique atmosphere, coming from West University
and surrounding areas to pack into the small space. They come here primarily
for lunch and dinner, but also to buy the fresh pasta by the pound and
to shop the shelves for boxes of biscotti, sun-dried tomatoes, olives and
everything else needed to stock a pantry with Italian specialties.

Many regular clients choose to dine al fresco in the patio out front,
under the sea of yellow umbrellas that shades the tables. Inside, the rather
claustrophobic section between shelves of canned goods gives the impression
of having dinner in a convenience store. The main dining area is a narrow
stretch of tables where bottles of olive oil stand in lieu of Chianti-bottle
candleholders. Travel posters paper the walls on one side, while on the
other, a rustic wood-fired pizza oven is inset into a terracotta-toned
mural of a vineyard.

At lunchtime, the patio usually overflows with soccer moms sopping up
marinara sauce and Medical Center office workers having a quick meal. They
all gather here for the daily steamtable specials available only at lunch.
Consisting of your choice of three of the assortment of 12 items which
might include chicken lasagna or pasta primavera, lunch at DiAmicois costs
only $5.95. Sandwiches like the Italian sub, or the Milano Panini with
grilled eggplant and sauteed mushrooms on focaccia bread, ($6.95 each)
are popular alternatives to the steamtable lunch. Also popular are the
pizzas, made in the wood-burning oven. Topped with ingredients like smoked
mozzarella and sliced artichoke hearts, they feature a thin, crispy crust
and range in price from $6.95 to $10.95.

The dinner menu is more traditionally Italian, with a wide selection
of pasta dishes and house favorites. Appetizers such as the antipasto plate
($6.95) and Crab Claws DiAmico ($8.95) make excellent starters. Pastas
range from simple, homey dishes like spaghetti and meatballs ($6.50), to
more complex dishes such as Capellini Sicilian Style ($7.50). Angel hair
pasta is topped with marinara sauce, ricotta cheese, sauteed eggplant and
capers. Most pasta dishes are good bets here.

However, steer clear of dishes like Wild Mushroom and Walnut Tortellini
($9.95), which is larded with a heavy sauce of butter and cheese.

DiAmicois is a fixture on the Rice Village dining scene and a neighborhood
favorite, featuring hearty Italian-American fare in a casual, old-world
setting.

DiAmicois

5510 Morningside Dr.

The verdict: Have a nice meal on the patio, or take it home and
cook it yourself.