This is a discussion on Yep, another noob with synthetic motor oil questions within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Now before you get on my case, I did search and read as much as I could on the topic. ...

Yep, another noob with synthetic motor oil questions

Now before you get on my case, I did search and read as much as I could on the topic. I've been researching for about 3 or 4 days now, but can't quite come to a conclusion.

Ok, It's about that time for another oil change ( my second one ) and decided to go synthetic. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to technical how-to’s or what-to’s for that matter.
So the big question is what oil should I use.
My situation is, daily driving ( 30 miles pre day, about ) auto trans if it matters, and soon to be full cat less TBE. I don't mine the extra cost for the "good kind” if there is such thing but don't wanna cut corners when it comes to reliability. Now I do like to push my car every now and then, but when appropriate. I say this because I’m not a track rat but do like to visit the quarter mile every now and again and would like something that can put up with the best of both worlds.

Now I've heard some things on how some oils are better than one another, but does one drastic differ from the other? And is there a difference if your running cats or catless with motor oil?

The two main oils I have in mine are Redline and Castrol. If there is one I should seriously think about please fill me in.

If you are concerned about warranty then you must use an API oil. To my knowledge that means you cannot use Red Line nor Royal Purple, as neither has the API symbol on it (if it does, you can use it and somebody correct me please).

I don't know what viscosities your manual dictates, nor do I know where you are located. In any case, no, there are not huge end-of-world differences between classes of modern API motor oils. There are significant differences though, and those differences will become apparent in consumption rates and/or wear metal %s as the oil change interval becomes more extended, or even in how the oil stays in grade during the interval.

For example, my oil (M1 0W-40) is known to thin out initially to a high or mid 30 and then thicken back up as it ages, thus beginning and ending life as a 40-weight. Other oils won't thin (example: M1 5W-40 or Mobil Devlac1 5W-40) and others will thin but not thicken back up.

Oils also differ in base stock and additive packages. To my knowledge the only truly synthetic oils Castrol offers in the US (again, if I'm wrong somebody pitch in) are the 0W-30 and 5W-40 Syntec imports. The other Syntecs are Group III oils, not Group IV or V oils. I don't care either way, they can be olive oil as long as they perform IMO.

Look for an API oil of the correct viscosity per the manual and having an ACEA A3 rating also (ACEA is a different testing body than API; you need API for warranty but ACEA A3 is a tougher mark for the oil to meet than API SM). Or, look for MB229.x (1>x>5) or VW 505.x or BMW Long-Life, or ACEA A1. I think ACEA A5 is the easiest ACEA mark.

Happy shopping.

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If you are concerned about warranty then you must use an API oil. To my knowledge that means you cannot use Red Line nor Royal Purple, as neither has the API symbol on it (if it does, you can use it and somebody correct me please).

I don't know what viscosities your manual dictates, nor do I know where you are located. In any case, no, there are not huge end-of-world differences between classes of modern API motor oils. There are significant differences though, and those differences will become apparent in consumption rates and/or wear metal %s as the oil change interval becomes more extended, or even in how the oil stays in grade during the interval.

For example, my oil (M1 0W-40) is known to thin out initially to a high or mid 30 and then thicken back up as it ages, thus beginning and ending life as a 40-weight. Other oils won't thin (example: M1 5W-40 or Mobil Devlac1 5W-40) and others will thin but not thicken back up.

Oils also differ in base stock and additive packages. To my knowledge the only truly synthetic oils Castrol offers in the US (again, if I'm wrong somebody pitch in) are the 0W-30 and 5W-40 Syntec imports. The other Syntecs are Group III oils, not Group IV or V oils. I don't care either way, they can be olive oil as long as they perform IMO.

Look for an API oil of the correct viscosity per the manual and having an ACEA A3 rating also (ACEA is a different testing body than API; you need API for warranty but ACEA A3 is a tougher mark for the oil to meet than API SM). Or, look for MB229.x (1>x>5) or VW 505.x or BMW Long-Life, or ACEA A1. I think ACEA A5 is the easiest ACEA mark.

Happy shopping.

Good info on that!!! I believe that I will be going with Mobil 1 because I've heard nothing but great things about it. What should I use for my transmission/differential?

How do you guys feel about Q Advanced full synthetic? (made by Quaker State)
I see their ads on tv and in cars mags with an STI so it got me thinking.

On the flip side, I might just go with Royal Purple like WRXDriver82 had said, because i don't really care about my warranty, but was just trying to say i wanted something that was good and reliable for my driving situation + i want something that preforms a little better than stock.

And yes, should i use Royal Purple's transmission/differential oil as well with my 4EAT setup?

i actually tried the quaker state q advanced(10 30), i put it in about 50 miles ago, its definitely slicker to the touch and lighter feeling then mobil 1 (what i have been using), when i was pouring it in to funnel the oil actually turns into little liquid balls like liquid mercury (as it started to drip out of the container), so i dont know i put this oil in, in hopes of getting better gas mileage, so we shall see ..............

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