Delta shower valve repair

I am attempting to fix my leaking Delta shower valve. It is a single control type, see the attached picture. I started yesterday trying to disassemble it to replace the springs, seals, ball etc. I know that if I try to force it off that I will break three copper pipes behind the valve. I have been attempting to help my cause by applying my home grown liquid wrench (ATF and acetone 50/50) to the threads, and heating it a bit with a hair dryer and a plumbing torch. So far, 1 day in no luck. I am considering attempting to dremmel off the dome piece and/or the cylindrical piece that covers the pipes, but thought I would look for recommendations here first. I would prefer to not replace the valve, but I do have access behind the shower in the wall of a closet if necessary. One thing that prevents me from just diving in and cutting the metal is the availability of replacement parts for those pieces. I have not looked terribly hard, but have not found them yet. I failed to ask about them yesterday when I bought replacement parts for the internals at the plumbing store, but I did ask about the plate behind the valve and they did not have that.

Thanks, Matt

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I am attempting to fix my leaking Delta shower valve. It is a single control type, see the attached picture. I started yesterday trying to disassemble it to replace the springs, seals, ball etc. I know that if I try to force it off that I will break three copper pipes behind the valve. I have been attempting to help my cause by applying my home grown liquid wrench (ATF and acetone 50/50) to the threads, and heating it a bit with a hair dryer and a plumbing torch. So far, 1 day in no luck. I am considering attempting to dremmel off the dome piece and/or the cylindrical piece that covers the pipes, but thought I would look for recommendations here first. I would prefer to not replace the valve, but I do have access behind the shower in the wall of a closet if necessary. One thing that prevents me from just diving in and cutting the metal is the availability of replacement parts for those pieces. I have not looked terribly hard, but have not found them yet. I failed to ask about them yesterday when I bought replacement parts for the internals at the plumbing store, but I did ask about the plate behind the valve and they did not have that.

Thanks, Matt

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Your on the right track. Use your dermmel tool to split then nut then open up the split by twisting a screwdriver in the cut you made. The new replacement nut have a hex on them to make them easier to remove.

First loosen the plastic ring with the notches in it. Heat the nut with a torch,slow and do not get it really hot...just warm it up good. It should be hot enough you cant touch it for more than a split second. Now take some channel locks and out toward the end of the bonnet....where you loosened the plastic ring,try to apply more twisting force that gripping force. If you squeeze too hard you will egg the bonnet and it will not turn. You cant see this happening. Watch the bonnet as you try to turn.....if you feel your channel locks move and not slip but the bonnet does not move you know to stop immediately and get your dremel out. Remember to turn rather than squeeze.

Be careful and not cut too deep with the dremel if you use it. As Johnjh201 said cut it part way through and use a screwdriver to twist and split the bonnet. Once you split it and open the split with a screwdriver it should unscrew.

Someone said that it comes with a new cartridge...would need to verify that.

If you twist too much, you can damage the lines to the valve and unless you're quite skilled, that may require replacing the valve itself rather than just the cartridge. A hacksaw could start to split the bonnet - you don't want to damage the threads of the body, though.

Someone said that it comes with a new cartridge...would need to verify that.

If you twist too much, you can damage the lines to the valve and unless you're quite skilled, that may require replacing the valve itself rather than just the cartridge. A hacksaw could start to split the bonnet - you don't want to damage the threads of the body, though.

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That faucet doesn't take a cartridge. It takes two seats,two springs,ball,cam packing,bonnet with adjustment ring.

Take your pick!!!! Good luck and let us know how it goes. I suggest getting a total rebuilt kit. You have a Delta 600

It is much more fun to twist the whole thing off while trying to do a simple repair (been there)...I'm not a fan of these ugly Delta's that always seem to be siezed up when they are leaking somewhere. I've replaced half of them already.

It is much more fun to twist the whole thing off while trying to do a simple repair (been there)...I'm not a fan of these ugly Delta's that always seem to be siezed up when they are leaking somewhere. I've replaced half of them already.

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I've installed alot of Delta faucets,the older 600's and the newer styles. One thing that the clowns at Delta and other faucet manufacturers do not understand or refuse to address properly is sticking bonnet nuts. They re-designed the bonnet and put wrench flats on it.....thats good but its still a FAIL. They started coating the new valves bonnet nut with a teflon finish.....thats great but its still a FAIL.

If they would simply use some plumbers grease on the threads at the factory the problem would go away........then it would be up to anyone who repaired the faucet in the future to apply grease when they service the valve.

All of the new faucets I install get taken apart and lubricated. Thats part of a professional installation IMO.

I've installed alot of Delta faucets,the older 600's and the newer styles. One thing that the clowns at Delta and other faucet manufacturers do not understand or refuse to address properly is sticking bonnet nuts. They re-designed the bonnet and put wrench flats on it.....thats good but its still a FAIL. They started coating the new valves bonnet nut with a teflon finish.....thats great but its still a FAIL.

If they would simply use some plumbers grease on the threads at the factory the problem would go away........then it would be up to anyone who repaired the faucet in the future to apply grease when they service the valve.

All of the new faucets I install get taken apart and lubricated. Thats part of a professional installation IMO.

Delta is my brand of choice but I call it like I see it.

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I agree Delta has always been my faucet of choice also. They kept with the same basic design for years on there entire line. Not like there composition. But I don't like what I'm starting to see from Delta. This new touch design they have will turn into a service mans dream. Can you imagine how small the check valves are that prevent a cross connection between the hot and cold. I see may services calls to replace them. Just my opinion.