This is not really a copy of the JP200. It looks like a copy of a supposed copy of JP200 sold a decade or so ago by a Hong Kong Shop. The HK Shop already simplified and changed the original JP200 design to make it easier to DIY, it seems this shop has made more changes.

Real Jadis has many capacitors in parallel on the output, including Mylar type metalised (often Orange Drops) and MKP (I have seen even SCR and orange drops there) and one smaller value Foil & Film Type (various).

Total capacitance is usually larger than 2uF, I have often seen values around 6uF.

You can reduce the capacitor marked as 0.47uF to 0.1uF value without ill effects (this is seen on some Jadis Preamps too) or even lower if you increase the value of the 470K resistor after the capacitor (not Jadis but mine).

The output capacitor can be another value if you are only going to use tube amplifiers with high input impedance, but it is borderline in terms of size for some Solid State Amplifiers and too small for use with Jeff Rowlands and other very low input impedance Solid State Amplifiers.

You also need to look at the 1uF input Capacitor. This too has a large effect on sound quality. Jadis interestingly often used Mylar there. Go figure.

The electrolytic capacitors in the Pre's supply lines also will have an impact...

You need to consider if you want Jadis sound as original Jadis or if you want to do your own thing.

In the second case my first change would probably to use a 12AU7 or similar for T3. I would remove R12 and make R8 3.3K/1W and R11 33K/3W (needs C4 = 3.3pF).

I would likely change R6 and R9 to 3M3 and use 10nF non-magnetic silver mica capacitors for C1 & C4.

I would use a single large tinfoil output coupling capacitor for C5 (as large as I can afford) and another 10nF Silver Mica (non magnetic is very important) for the C3 bypass.

BUT, the resulting line stage would not be a Jadis JP200 and what I like in sound may not be what you like.

In fact, personally REALLY I would probably simply throw that JP200 imitation board out and build a Kondo M7 Linestage with a single 5687 tube into the case instead...

Then, with respect, do not expect major improvements from the Cap's you listed. There is a nice overview of the different Cap's you can get on a Website linked with Tempo Electric (aka Arthur Loesch and Joseph Levy):

I am not in 100% agreement on all the items, but what is written is mostly accurate IME.

They have major outliers in the Tinfoil Cap category, generally citing a "glare". There are reasons for this in their setup, however I think this is overemphasised.

I personally use Tinfoil Cap's extensively, but they do need for some reason quite a bit of time to "settle in" or "burn in" and can sound spitty and glarey inbetween.

Of course take all this with a grain of salt, there are those here who happen to not trust their ears and who insist that subjective differences between capacitors and "capacitor burn-in" are all just pigments of their imaginations and hence the must be true of everyone else...

You could try to find some nice large value Wima FKP (they used to make them in as high as 0.22uF - I have them stashed) and apply them in the two position in input and coupling between stages, using a third one in parallel with the output cap.

what really happens with all the jadis sound is they sound slow, dark and with no treble and an really bass , but like all the things , are people that like, i don't,
i think that the only thing that jadis make moreanless is the boxes, they look very well, a few days ago i see an review of jadis se300b, its really unthinkable,
how an thinks coast 12k , have all those things wrong, the site is jadis 300b reformed, its really amasing , so this people in jadis don't really now nothing about project, music, nothing, use philips capacitors in audio amplifiers, things that coast 1 peny, and take 12k ????