The RISER 100 is a standard class sailplane designed for sport and competition glider pilots alike. It's everything a "glider guider" could want in an all around sailplane - ease of building, large size, and
great "hang time"! With a 100 inch wingspan and 1000 sq. in. of wing area, the RISER 100 is one of the best floaters around. A modified Eppler-205 airfoil lets the RISER 100 maximize any available lift,
while still allowing excellent penetration on windy days. It's outstanding flight performance puts it right at home riding the thermals on a lazy summer afternoon, or going all out in competition against the big
guys on contest day.

First-time glider builders will appreciate the straight forward, speedy construction of the RISER 100. The fuselage is built almost entirely of SIG LITE-PLY using our popular "Tee Lock" construction,
which practically assures the builder of a straight, strong model. A carefully thought out building sequence takes the builder right from the open box to the flying field. Complete instructions and materials
are also included for incorporating optional spoilers in the wing of the RISER 100. Spoilers are essential for making consistant spot landings and for other multitask soaring events. You will also need to
decide whether you want to use the standard rubber band wing mounting system shown on the main side and top view fuse plan, or if you want to convert to the optional bolt-on wing attachment as
shown on plate 2 of the plans. Complete instructions and materials are furnished in this kit for either version.

The versatile RISER 100 can even make a good R/C trainer! Many model clubs around the country like to train student pilots on a sailplane because of their gentle and slow speed flying
characteristics. The slow speed allows the beginner ample time to develop the skills that are necessary for flying radio controlled models. If you have never flown an R/C model before, we strongly
recommend that you obtain the assistance of a skilled R/C flier before attempting to fly your RISER 100 by yourself.

Radio Equipment Requirements

The RISER 100 requires only elevator and rudder control, so any radio with two or more channels may be used as long as it is on an aircraft approved frequency.
NOTE: If spoilers are to be used, a radio with at least three channels is required.

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Notes Before Beginning Construction

Any references to right or left refers to your right or left as if you were seated in the cockpit. References to inboard means toward the fuselage, while references to outboard means away from the
fuselage.

To build good flying models, you need a good straight building board. Crooked models don't fly well! The building board can be a table, a workbench, a reject "door core" from the lumber yard, or
whatever - as long as it is perfectly flat and untwisted. Cover the top surface of the building board with a piece of celotex-type wall board or foam board, into which pins can be easily pushed. Don't
hesitate to use plenty of pins during assembly to hold drying parts in correct position.

When pinning and gluing parts directly over the full-size plans, cover the plan with wax paper or plastic kitchen wrap to prevent gluing the parts to the plans.

Don't use a ball point pen for making marks on the model during construction. If not sanded off, these ink marks will show through the model's final finish. Use a pencil instead.

Identifying Kit Parts

Leave all die-cut parts in the sheets until needed in construction. Then remove the pieces from the sheets carefully. If difficulty is encountered, do not force the part from the sheet - use a modeling
knife to cut it free.

A jig saw works best for cutting out the printed balsa parts. If a jig saw is not available, a sharp modelling knofe and a straightedge can be used. Cut just outside the printed lines, leaving all of the line on
the part. Whe fitting the piece into the dtructure, use a sanding block to bring the edges to an exact fit.

Die-cut plywood parts can be identified using the "KEY TO PLYWOOD PARTS". All of the other parts can be identified by the "COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST". Sort the different sizes of sticks and
sheets into individual piles to avoid confusion during building. Cut all long pieces of balsa first, followed by medium lengths, before cutting up any full length strips into short pieces.
NOTE: Save any scrap balsa and plywood until the model is completely done. Some of it may be called for during construction of the model.

COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST

Die-Cut Balsa Sheets

4

3/32"x3"x18" W-2 Wing Ribs

2

3/32"x3"x18" W-5, W-6, W-7, W-8 Wing Ribs

1

3/32"x3"x18" W-3, W-4 Wing Ribs

Silkscreened Balsa

1

1/4"x3"x9" Stab, Fin and Rudder parts

1

3/8"x3"x4" Wing Joiner Fill-in

Sheet Balsa

1

1/16"x3"x36" Wing Center Sheeting

1

3/8"x2-1/2"x15" Top Hatch Sheeting

Stick Balsa

1

1/4" triangle x3" Wing Mount Reinforcements

1

1/8"x1/8"x24" Spoiler Sheeting Reinforcement

4

1/16"x1/4"x36" Fuselage Reinforcement and Polyhedral Sheeting

2

1/16"x1/2"x36" Fuselage Reinforcement and Spoiler Sheeting

4

1/4"x5/16"x36" Stabilizer, Fin, and Rudder Frames

2

1/8"x1/4"x36" Stabilizer, Fin and Rudder Crossbracing

Special Shaped Balsa

2

1/4"x2"x12" Tapered Stock for Elevators

2

1/4"x1"x12" Trailing Edge Stock for Spoilers

2

5/16"x1-1/4"x24" Outboard Panel Trailing Edge

2

5/16"x1-1/4"x26" Inboard Panel Trailing Edge

20

1/16"x1"x4" Wing Shear Ribs

Block Balsa

2

1"x1-1/2"x 8" Wing Tip

1

2"x2-1/4"x3" Nose Block

2

3/8"x1-5/16"x2-7/16" Wing Hold Down Blocks

Hardwood

2

1/4"x24" Outboard Panel Leading Edge Dowel

2

1/4"x26" Inboard Panel Leading Edge Dowel

1

1/4"x5" Elevator Joiner Dowel

1

3/16"x8" Wing Hold Down Dowel

1

1/8"x4" Alignment Pin Dowel

4

3/16"x3/8"x24" Outer Panel Spruce Spars

4

3/16"x3/8"x26" Inner Panel Spruce Spars

6

1/8"x3/16"x24" Outer Panel Spruce Turbulators

6

1/8"x3/16"x26" Inner Panel Spruce Turbulators

1

1/4"x1-1/4"x1-7/8" Plywood Wing Bolt Block

2

1/2"x5/8"x1-1/2" Basswood Wing Bolt Blocks

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Die-Cut Poplar Plywood (Lite-Ply)

1

1/8"x6"x48" Fuselage Sides

1

1/8"x6"x20" Fuselage Top and Formers

1

1/8"x3"x48" Fuselage Bottom

1

1/8"x6"x12" W1A and W1B Wing Ribs

Die-Cut Birch Plywood

1

3/32"x4"x6" Servo Rails and Polyhedral Braces

1

1/16"x4"x6" Rib Guages and Fuselarge Doublers

Hardware

2

9/32" o.d. Brass Tube Wing Joiners

1

1/4"x8" Music Wire Wing Joiner

2

Medium Nylon Control Horns

4

#2 x 1/2" Sheet Metal Screws

2

4-40 Blind Nuts

2

2-56 Nylon R/C Links

4

2-56 x 10" Threaded Rods

1

4-40 x 8" Threaded Rod

1

4-40 Hex Nut

1

#3 Flat Washer

1

4-40 x 1" Nylon Bolt

2

48" Nylon Pushrod Tubing Assemblies

2

.130" o.d. x 19" Nylon Tubing

1

6' pkg. Dracon Line

7

Easy Hinges

3

3/64" o.d. Spoiler Actuating and Servo Hook Up Wires

2

Lead Weights

4

10-32 x 1" Nylon Bolts

Miscellaneous Parts

1

.030"x12" ABS Plastic Skid

1

1/8"x1/2"x14" Servo Mounting Tape

1

Decal

1

Instruction Book

1

38"x50" Plan Plate 1

1

25"x38" Plan Plate 2

You can't get along without a good sanding block

An assortment of different size sanding blocks are indispensable tools for model construction. A good general purpose block can be made by wrapping a
9"x11" sheet of sandpaper around a piece of hardwood or plywood. Use three screws along one edge to hold the overlapped ends of the sandpaper. Put 80-grit paper on the block during general
construction. Switch to 220-grit paper for final finish sanding just before covering.

Another handy block can be made by gluing sandpaper onto a 24" or 36" long piece of aluminum channel stock. Most hardware stores carry a rack of aluminum in various sizes and shapes. This long
block is very useful for sanding leading and trailing edges accurately.

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Finally, glue sandpaper onto different sizes of scrap plywood sticks and round hardwood dowels. These are handy for working in tight places and for careful shaping where a big block is too
hard to control.

Glues

There are so many different glues available today for model construction that it can be confusing even for the experienced modeler. To simplify matters, most glues can be classified as
one of four basic types:

Each of these types has different characteristics and advantages. Often times, the choice of which type to use is strictly a matter of personal preference based on your prior experience with a
previous model. However, because of the vast use of lite-ply and hardwoods in the construction of the RISER 100, we have found that CA glues seem to work the best for the general construction.
In fact, the construction sequence of the RISER 100 fuselage is designed with the use of CA glue in mind. Other glues could be used, but CA is recommended as our first choice because of its ability to
penetrate an already assembled joint. In other words, the fuse parts can be first assembled dry without glue, the alignment checked and adjusted, and then glue can be applied to the joints. Read
through the fuselage construction and you will better understand what we mean. You shoul also have on hand some epoxy glue, either slow dry or 5-minute, for areas subject to unusual strain or involving
metal pieces. Some of the steps in these instructions call out the types of glue to use for that particular assembly. In other areas you can use your own judgement as to which type is best suited to the
purpose and your building schedule.

CAUTION: Some people have experienced allergic reactions when exposed to epoxy or cyanoacrylate glues. This is very rare. However, it is extremely important that
such glues, and also paints, thinners and solvents, be used with adequate ventilation to carry fumes away.

About Printed Wood Parts

Some years ago we had kits featuring die-cut parts in both thick and thin balsa sizes. If the thick parts were cut from dry wood, the wood often crushed or crinkled on the edges, even
when using a brand new die. If the thick parts were cut from wet wood there was an improvement- though many of them still crushed - but the swelled wood parts changed shape after drying, making
them inaccurate. So we asked modelers if they would rather have the parts printed on the wood instead. They could be cut out in a few minutes with a saw or modelling knife and thus avoid any
"die-crunching". Most voted in favour of this idea.

To answer the question we are sometimes asked - no, we do not print parts on wood to save money. It is actually more expensive to print the parts using a silk screen press than it is to run an equivalent
sheet through our automatic feed die cutting machine. If we hand-sawed the parts it would be even more expensive and the labor cost would have to be added to the kit price. We believe that most
modelers would rather cut their own out and save the cost. Since there are not many thick parts in our average kit, it really doesn't consume a lot of the total building time for the builder to do the
parts.

FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION

Carefully remove all die-cut Lite-Ply fuselage sides, top, bottom and formers from their
sheets. Remove any rough edges on these parts with a small sanding block with 220 grit sandpaper.

1.

Drill two holes with a 3/16" drill bit where indicated in plywood formers F3 and F4 for the outer pushrod tubing. There are two small dimples in these formers to mark the
correct spot for the holes.

NOTE: If the optional bolt-on wing attachment method is to be used, do not drill these holes in former F4. The pushrods will have to pass through the open middle of that former
to avoid interfering with the basswood wing bolt blocks. See Top View of the "Optional Bolt-On Wing" drawings on plan plate 2.

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2.

Tape or rubber band the two fuselage sides together at the rear.

3.

Working from the rear forward, slip all of the fuselage formers into place. Put a rubber band around the fuselage at each former location to hold it tightly together.

4.

Slide the die-cut lite-ply fuselage top rearward, under the rubber bands, until it snaps into it's proper location between the fuse sides.

5.

Slide the die-cut lite-ply fuselage bottom rearward, under the rubber bands, until it snaps into its proper location between the fuse sides.

6.

Place the fuselage over the top view of the plans to check the alignment. Correct if necessary by twisting gently before proceeding.

7.

Carefully glue all the parts permanently in place, preferably working from the inside of the fuselage, using a medium viscosity CA glue.
NOTE: Be sure to glue both sides of the formers to the top, bottom, and sides of the fuselage. Do not remove the rubber bands until all the glue joints have completely dried.

8.

Cut and glue in place the 1/16"x1/4" balsa fuselage stiffeners where shown on the plan in the area of the hatch.

9.

Cut and glue in place the 1/16"x1/2" balsa wing saddle stiffener as shown on the plans. After the glue has dried, trim the balsa to match the
wing saddle.

10.

Drill 3/16" dia. holes through the lite-ply fuselage sides for the 3/16" birch dowels required for the standard rubber band style wing
mounting. It is best not to glue the dowels in place until after the model is covered.
NOTE: If you are planning to use the optional bolt-on wing attachement, ignor this step.

11.

A 3/8"x2"x15" balsa sheet is provided for making the top hatch. Cut this sheet into a 3" long piece and 12" long piece. Permanently glue the 3" long section
in place on top of the fuselage sides, all the way to the front, flush with fuselage former F1.

Lightly tack glue the remaining 12" balsa top hatch sheet in place on top of the fuselage sides, right behind the 3" piece. Notice that it extends back past former F3.

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12.

Glue and pin in place the 2"x2-1/4"x3" balsa nose block. It should be flush with the bottom of the fuselage.

13.

Roughly carve the nose block and top hatch sheet to shape as shown on the plans. A razor plane or a #26 X-Acto blade and handle are ideal for this step.

14.

Sand the nose block and the top hatch to exact shape with a sanding block and remove the top hatch from the fuselage.

15.

Carefully remove the 12" long portion of the top hatch from the fuse sides. Since it was only tack glued it should come off easily. Make a hatch tongue from a scrap piece of
1/16" plywood as shown on the plans. Permanently glue the tongue to the front of the hatch on the bottom side.

16.

Cut a piece of scrap 1/8" lite-ply to fit between the fuse sides right in front of former F3. It serves as a hold-down plate for the rear end of the removeable 12" top hatch.

17.

Holding the removable top hatch in place, drill a 1/8" hole through the hatch and through the center of the lite-ply hold-down plate. Install a 4-40 blind nut on the bottom side
of the hold-down plate and bolt the top hatch in place with a 4-40 x 1" bolt.

18.

That's as far as you can go on the top hatch for now. Once the wing is built, but before covering the model, you must carve out the bottom of the removable top hatch
slightly at the rear where it fits down against the wing. The best procedure for doing this is to mount the wing on the fuse, then carefully carve and sand away the bottom of the hatch. Carefully remove
just a little material at a time and keep trial fitting the hatch in place as you go.

19.

In case you carved too much balsa from the bottom of the hatch and now have a gap, here is a simple method to fix it. Simply cover the wing at the dihedral joint with wax
paper and apply a generous amount of Sig Epoxolite putty (or other thick model putty) to the bottom of the hatch and then bolt in place. After the putty has set up, remove the hatch and gently carve and
sand off the excess putty.

20.

Glue the 1/16" plywood fuselage doubler FD in place inside the bottom of the fuselage.

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21.

Drill a hole through the bottom of the fuselage and through the fuselage doubler FD for the towhook mounting. Measure the exact location for this hole carefully from the plan, as
the towhook position is critical for achieving a good launch of the sailplane. Install a 4-40 blind nut in the hole on the inside of the fuselage.

22.

The fuselage is now ready for final sanding. Sand off all "Tee-Lock" stubsa and round the edges of the fuselage with a sanding block. Start out with
150 grit sandpaper and switch to 220 grit sandpaper for the final sanding.

Servo And Pushrod Installation

23.

Drill the elevator and rudder pushrod exit holes in the fuselage sides as shown on the plans. Use a 1/8" drill bit at first for a pilot hole and follow it up with a 3/16" drill bit.

24.

Install the 3/16" o.d. outer nylon pushrod tubing for the rudder and elevator pushrods into the fuselage by passing them through the previously drilled holes.

NOTE: Make sure that the outer pushrods extend out past the former F-3 for 3/4".

25.

Epoxy the outer pushrod tubing in place at the rear of the fuselage and at the formers F-3 and F-4.

26.

Use a single-edge razor blade to trim the outer pushrod tubing flush with the outside of the fuselage sides.

27.

Die-cut 3/32" plywood servo rails (SR-1, SR-2, and SR-3) have been provided. Trim the servo rails if necessary to fit your particular servos.
Epoxy the rails in place in the fuselage between formers F-2 and F-3. Mount the servos to the rails in the manner recommended by the radio manufacturer.

The rest of the pushrod installation will be done later during "Final Assembly", after the tail surfaces are mounted to the fuselage.

BUILDER`S TIP

Although it's not shown on the plans we recommend that you add scrap pieces of 1/4"x5/16"x1" balsa between the fuselage sides to increase the gluing area for the stabilizer.