Can't remove the bolts from the front calipers.

I sprayed the bolts with WD40 and I also let it sit overnight but they still will not budge. It's been a while since I actually worked on a car. I'm not even sure if I'm turning the bolts the correct way. I really can't afford to take it to the shop either. any ideas?

I was always leery of using a torch on a car but I will give it a try. Thank you very much for your advice.I was always leery of using a torch on a car but I will give it a try. Thank you very much for your advice.

I have had very good luck with a product called PB2 from the parts store. It comes in a yellow can. Spray the bolt and hit it straight on the end as you spray it. Tap it and let the product soak in. Wiggle it back and forth. It will come off in the CCW direction.

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Try spray PB or WD40 on the bolts. Spray it good. Use a heavy hammer and hit it the back. Just enough to get some movement. Eventually, it will come off. Spray inner part as well. Sometimes they just get jammed. It just needs to break loose.

Most vehicles don't require the removal of the center nut. I have had many a car that the rotors are simply rusted on. I've taken a hammer to them and still no budge. I would soak it with some PB blaster a few times and let it sit overnight. Retry in the morning with a hammer.

Yes it's the right direction but because of so much heating and cooling those bolts get really tight.Spray alot of penetrating oil (WD-40) on and around the bolts.You may even want to tap the wrench on the bolts in the opposite direction slightly (tighten) to help loosen their adherence,then try the right way to losen them.Dont use a torch! It'll melt the "O" ring on the caliper piston.Take your time

There are many steps of varying levels of desperation involved with removing brake component bolts. As you go down the list, your more and more at risk of damaging something.

1. Penetrating Oil. If you can somehow get this to sit in a pool around the bolt, it will slowly work its way in.2. 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. This is a solid, non ratcheting bar that often comes with 1/2 inch ratchet sets. It is longer than the ratchet, so you can get more torque on the bolt to loosen it.3. Workspace. See if you can improve your work space by jacking the vehicle to get more room in the wheel well, or by removing the piece your working on and placing it in a vice to get better leverage. 4. Heat. Using a blowtorch or tiger torch, you can heat the area the bolt is threaded into. This will loosen the bolt slight, but is NOT HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for brakes as you can easily damage brake lines with heat.5. Impact. Again, not highly recommended for brakes as hitting the wrong part could put you and your families lives at risk. However, sometimes an impact to the mating area between the bolt and the caliper will loosen the bolt.

When you get the caliper off, be sure to NOT hang it by the brake lines. This can cause hairline fractures in the brake lines that will result in brake line failure. Instead, hang it by a piece of wire or string, off part of the suspension.

take off tires. two 14mm bolts behind the caliper. loosen the bottom 1. tilt the caliper up. slide caliper inward of the car, let caliper hang. two 17mm bolts behind the bracket take it off. and rotors should slide out. if rotor seized spray WD40 and hammer the rotor. careful don't hammer the stud it will screw up the thread.

The large bolt that you see is the nut that holds the axle shaft to the hub. You do not need to remove it to remove the rotors. You just need to remove the caliper & the caliper bracket. Normally, the rotors come off of the hubs easily, but sometimes, they rust onto the hub. My techs beat and beat and beat until they come off. With large hammers. Note that after they are beaten off, the rotors are no longer viable for re-use.