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Loma Prieta prides itself on being the largest producer of Pinotage in North America. In fact, it’s one of the only Pinotage producers in North America. A genetic crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, Pinotage is often considered South Africa’s signature grape variety:Over 15,000 acres there are dedicated to the grape.California, by comparison, cultivates only 51 acres of Pinotage. That puts Loma Prieta owner Paul Kemp in a class of his own, bottling three versions of Pinotage from three different wine regions, plus a sparkling rendition.

But Pinotage wasn’t always Kemp’s main focus. He founded Loma Prieta in 2003 with Pinot in mind, and didn’t turn to Pinotage until discovering it in a Lodi vineyard. It didn’t take long before he was pulling out his estate’s Cabernet and Merlot vines.

It’s a worthy hike to reach this Pinotage haven. The serpentine road from Highway 17 leads to a sumptuous Italianate property. I arrived just before nightfall, and the vista, stretching out to the Pacific, provided an inconceivably romantic setting to watch the sun set. A visit to Loma Prieta is rather casual, and can get crowded; on a recent visit, the place was so bustling that the tasting room seemed understaffed. Guests have the opportunity to taste through a flight of wines at the bar, but it’s better to grab a seat on the expansive patio overlooking the vineyards and the water. For those eager to stay on their feet, wander over to the bocce court or the giant chessboard for a round, glass of Pinotage in hand.

WHAT TO TRY: Loma Prieta produces a vast portfolio including everything from Chardonnay and Roussanne to Malbec, Petite Sirah and Port-style fortified wine. But since you’ve trekked up the mountaintop, make sure to get a taste of their different Pinotage wines. The grape is one of the most polarizing in the wine world — garnering praise for its unctuous, brambly flavors as well as criticism for the sometimes-unpleasant aromas the variety can give (Band-Aids and paint are common descriptors of bad South African Pinotage). The Loma Prieta Pinotages are never overwrought, though.They’re medium-bodied and perfectly charming with pure berry flavors. Try all three side by side and see which Pinotage camp you fall into.

INSIDE INFO: You’re not going to encounter very much Pinotage in California Wine Country. But there is at least one other example, from J Vineyards, which is also enjoyable. Should you fall in love with the grape, head up to Healdsburg and give this one a try too.