forged pistons are a must. Rods aren't, but it would be better to get forged ones, or at least stronger cast ones. Crank comes in last, only needs to be forged if you plan on going over 7000 with lots of nitrous.

Heads would be a good addition for power. Iron is cheaper and will make more power than aluminum with same port/valve and a lower cr but is heavier. Aluminum is expensive, lighter and will make more power than iron with a higher cr.

You can buy cams that work in their peak off nitrous or on nitrous. Talk to comp cams.

I think you can build a pretty healthy motor with $3,000. wait how much is that in american dollars?

I may be able to help out, I have two nitrous systems, a 150 shot fogger kit (I used on my circle track car for a unlimited charity event we put on last year), and a 250 kit (I think) can't remember a neighbor gave to me a couple years ago when her husband passed away, I don't think he ever used it, could be wrong though. i'll have a look in my dads shop and see if I can find it if you want, I'll get it to ya cheap, I'm not using either of them and don't plan on it. My dad may have already sold the 150 kit, kinda remember hearing something about that, but I don't listen very well. By the way if I do find it I can have it delivered to Red Deer a friend works there, at schlumberger (spelling?) he comes home all the time let me know, it could take a while to find there are parts everywhere after tearing down the race car for the winter.

Neil If you are using a used 400 crank make sure you do not turn the rod journals more than .010 ! the stock chevy crank is a cast nodular peice and should be o;k with a shot of juice provided you use a good set of rods a forged pistons and a good balance job, and it would be a wise idea to magnaflux the crank and rods!

Neil magnafluxing is a magnetic flourescent partical fluid that is aplied to a magnetized metal and flows into tiny cracks and veiwed under a blacklight and shows indications if any to determine if the parts are adequate for use. this is the most comon way of testing engine parts and your local machine shop should be able to get it done for you? and I would like to add that this process can only be done to metals that can be magnatised! as with aluminum or stainless steel they cannot! although you can use a dye penetrant for all types that comes in a kit!

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