Just one question or two when wiring a cc do you need to run the tack wire AND the ns switch wire as they both kick the cc of if you happen to bump the shifter in to neutral . All so what will it hurt to install the thing in the passenger compartment. The tranny is a FORD C4 so speedo is the only place to put the pg as the speedo cable is solid coming out of the tranny.

I know that the clutch pedal is supposed to release the cruise, cause there is a switch for it on the harness I'm working on. What I ain't sure about is on an automatic. As far as a speedometer, they make adaptor fittings with a pulse generator that drives off of where your speedometer cable would have hooked up. The pulse per revolution generated is usually programmable on the dash speedometer used. I don't know what harness or instrument package you're using, but maybe this will get you started in the right direction. Did you get your A/C system wired up? olnolan

I know that the clutch pedal is supposed to release the cruise, cause there is a switch for it on the harness I'm working on. What I ain't sure about is on an automatic. As far as a speedometer, they make adaptor fittings with a pulse generator that drives off of where your speedometer cable would have hooked up. The pulse per revolution generated is usually programmable on the dash speedometer used. I don't know what harness or instrument package you're using, but maybe this will get you started in the right direction. Did you get your A/C system wired up? olnolan

thanks olnolan
I think I have the relay wiring down now . The power on wire goes to the power on, on the starter and on to the relay fan power wire (that what the jumper is for I guess to by pass the black wire)the black wire will go on the stave on the sensor screwed in the hot water hose fitting on the manfold that runs the water thorugh the ac./heater and then through the trinary to a ground.
at lest that my best guess . The wire from the ac control panel goes through the trinary switch to the compressor.IF this an't write let me know were I went wrong and i will change the errors of my way. Oh on the cc the wires to kick it out go to the hot and cold wire from the master cylande (tail light wires) now if I can find out why they use the tack wire and the nsw wire to do the same thing OR if both are needed? I will plug the rest of it in as it is so simple a dumb** like me can do that.

Several of the 70's GM vehicles also use a cruise control controller that is inline with the speedometer cable. The original speedometer cable connects to the cruise control, and then a short cable runs from there to the speedometer. It takes a lot more room than a VSS on the back of the speedometer, but might work for your application.

I also installed one Ford dealer-installed cruise control for an Escort that put the controller in the engine compartment, but the cable to operate the throttle ran through the firewall and pulled directly on the pedal linkage inside the car. It was a little strange, but seemed to work okay.

On the old cruise controls the safety switch only ran to the brake light switch and a switch on the clutch. The brake light switch also had a vacuum break safety connection to the cruise control mechanism, since the controller used a vacuum-operated mechanism to pull on the throttle cable. There was no safety connection to the tach or NSS.

Several of the 70's GM vehicles also use a cruise control controller that is inline with the speedometer cable. The original speedometer cable connects to the cruise control, and then a short cable runs from there to the speedometer. It takes a lot more room than a VSS on the back of the speedometer, but might work for your application.

I also installed one Ford dealer-installed cruise control for an Escort that put the controller in the engine compartment, but the cable to operate the throttle ran through the firewall and pulled directly on the pedal linkage inside the car. It was a little strange, but seemed to work okay.

On the old cruise controls the safety switch only ran to the brake light switch and a switch on the clutch. The brake light switch also had a vacuum break safety connection to the cruise control mechanism, since the controller used a vacuum-operated mechanism to pull on the throttle cable. There was no safety connection to the tach or NSS.

Bruce

Thanks Bruce
I did some research and found that I only needed one wire to the tack wire so that if you did knock the shifter in to natural it will kick the cc of and not blow up your motor. The kit is a Dakota and came w/pulse generator that will fit on my speedo as I have a C4 tranny and am useing a FORD cable. It will work on a CHEVY tranny ,or on the back of your speedo, nice as they did not force you to get an adepter,more $$$ as some of the kits I looked at.NOW if I can just get my brother to understand the difference in a switch on power source and batt. source I'LL have it made. Well at lest he works cheep.

It looks like you are finding out that the Dakota Digital instruction sheets are not the best for a newbie. I found that the ones included with their kit, plus the one that Summit has on line as well as the Rostra almost make it easy. Wait until you try to figure out where those @#$#$% little switches are supposed to be set . Dakota gave me such wussie answers I ended up with a best guess. I hope you don't have digital tail lights and are using the flasher handle switch rather then that crap dash switch - that was a $40 mistake for me. I too have a C4, but have the Hall Effect generator for my VDO gauges. You do have to run through their trouble shoot procedures to make sure everything is connected right.

It looks like you are finding out that the Dakota Digital instruction sheets are not the best for a newbie. I found that the ones included with their kit, plus the one that Summit has on line as well as the Rostra almost make it easy. Wait until you try to figure out where those @#$#$% little switches are supposed to be set . Dakota gave me such wussie answers I ended up with a best guess. I hope you don't have digital tail lights and are using the flasher handle switch rather then that crap dash switch - that was a $40 mistake for me. I too have a C4, but have the Hall Effect generator for my VDO gauges. You do have to run through their trouble shoot procedures to make sure everything is connected right.

Good luck!!!

Dave W

Thanks Dave I got started today and so far so good I ran out of gas to heat the shop so did't get to play with the wires but did set the switches on the first open setting for a gm wiring harness. I have the pulse generator screwed on to my speedo and the cable run to my C4 at lest it looks neat an't got any idea how it will read if/when I get to drive the thing . Oh my speedo is mechanical. I WILL keep my fingers crossed on them dip switches as they will not be so easy to see under the dash as in my hand. OH YES GAS FIRST THING TOMORROW.

Hey Man, How about some pictures? I want to see what you're working on. Can't just tease us. olnolan

Just as soon as I can get my buddy by here one day as he has one of them fancier camera's. digital I guess as he has been sending me pitcures and movies. Oh the car is a 37 FORD WILDROD roaster w/lift off top,body is red and the top white. The red is a GM red with plenty of pearl and gold.looks like PPG HELL FIRE RED but bc/cc not tri-coat,to much $$$$$$$
sort of like Vinces as best I can tell from his pitcures .The white on the top is a custom blend it looks pink in the can but bright white in the sun. You can see a red/pink pearl look in it if you stand just at the right angle. Now if I can just get this wire party over I can move right along as I already have the motor,tranny,drive shaft and so on mounted and all the lights and switches wired I have got to the part in the wiring that I have not done before,power locks,cc,shaved handle kit. It kind of slows things down. The weather here has not helped as the back of my shop is NOT HEATED and as I RAN OUT of gas for the little heater we are using yesterday and it is 38 ,and raining,sleeting and snowing today. Not normal for this part of the country Oh well it lets me have time get on the computer and poke around. It is supposed to be in the low 50,s WED. and I will get back at it before I have to open up and put seven or eight new bows together (got to pay the rent and ults. you know) Thank to all who have helped and I am sure I will have more questions. Just bare with me and I WILL get some pictures on sooner or later.

....quick question - have you attached the cable to the carb yet? You might (probably!!) will find it way too long. Lokar makes one that can be cut to size. Also, you might have to make up a bracket to hook up at the carb as most of that claptrap they give you - ends up in a spare parts box .

....quick question - have you attached the cable to the carb yet? You might (probably!!) will find it way too long. Lokar makes one that can be cut to size. Also, you might have to make up a bracket to hook up at the carb as most of that claptrap they give you - ends up in a spare parts box .

I got the gas cable in and hooked up MONDAY BEFORE the weather went north,rain,sleet and snow so that put me out of doing any thing for a few days while the state gets the roads passable as we are not prepared for that stuff here .I do have the module mounted on the left side behind the dash with plenty of room to make a loop under the front of the console and out the fire wall. OH yes I WILL GET TO MAKE BRACKETS. Seems like every time I run gas or kick downs or what ever that comes with the job.Thanks for the heads up. Yours looks nice

I got the gas cable in and hooked up MONDAY BEFORE the weather went north,rain,sleet and snow so that put me out of doing any thing for a few days while the state gets the roads passable as we are not prepared for that stuff here .I do have the module mounted on the left side behind the dash with plenty of room to make a loop under the front of the console and out the fire wall. OH yes I WILL GET TO MAKE BRACKETS. Seems like every time I run gas or kick downs or what ever that comes with the job.Thanks for the heads up. Yours looks nice

OLDROD

Dave it looks like yours is hooked up did you set the cruise control like the kick down ie pulled full out at full throttle like the kick down? then a little slack in the gas cable? or is the slack in the cruise cable?

Dave it looks like yours is hooked up did you set the cruise control like the kick down ie pulled full out at full throttle like the kick down? then a little slack in the gas cable? or is the slack in the cruise cable?

OLDROD

Don't you just love those instructions??

My throttle is a rod rather then a cable - the Lokar cable wouldn't work with the extra engine setback I have. There's only 3-4 inches between the fire wall recess and the cable bracket

The kickdown is per Lokar - with just a bit of slack as is the cruise. You pull the cable tight, then back off some - but that's based on whatever carb and the throttle pull length.

I sure am glad someone else this year is getting the crummy weather . The prognosticators said we have had 45" of snow, but not on my yard - maybe 35.

Dave W

Thanks Dave that looks like the instructions that come with mine. NOW IF I can flip my gas cable bracket over I think it will work for both gas and cruise as it already has holes I have no idea why it points down cheap geardhead crap I suppose.OH yes you fellows can have this snow and stuff back we don't have the plows and stuff to get rid of it. 6"-8" and it shuts every thing down. It is supposed to be up in the mid to high 60,s Monday so i can get some more skinned knuckles and a head ache or two.

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