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Some vintages are pretty easy to understand when they are young. That was certainly the case with most years during the second half of the
1990s. But 1999 was always the outlier. So many wines were austere and tough when
they were first released. Today, it is a different story. A number of wines have
blossomed while others have faded. Overall, 1999 has turned out to be average vintage in
Barbaresco. At this point most wines offer little potential for upside, making 1999 an excellent vintage for near-term drinking.

The heart of
Ovello, Barbaresco

The growing season got off to an early start. So much so that
some growers describe 1999
as a warm vintage, even if that is a minority opinion. One of the defining moments of the year
was a significant hailstorm on June 14. “The
whole strip of vineyards that includes Asili and Rabajà was hit hard. This was the vintage that convinced authorities
in Barbaresco to install hail cannons,” says Aldo Vacca of the Produttori del
Barbaresco. “Usually hail arrives in the
afternoon,” explains Marchesi di Grésy’s
Estate Manager Geoffrey Chilcott. “I
still remember the morning of June 14. It was pitch black. Then the hail came
and ravaged the vineyards.”

White soils in the Santo Stefano portion of Albesani, Neive

Relatively balanced conditions throughout the rest of the year
led to a late harvest and wines with distinct elements of classical austerity.
The 1999s were never particularly flattering when they were young. The best
wines have aged gracefully, but broadly speaking, the 1999s have retained their
essentially mid-weight, structured personalities. At the same time,
most 1999 Barbarescos are now fully mature or close to it. In conclusion, 1999 is a slightly
better than average vintage, with one or two wines that overachieve relative to the overall quality of the
year.

La Spinetta’s 1999s
have developed beautifully in bottle

The wines in this article were tasted
multiple times between August 2012 and July 2014.

-- Antonio Galloni

Editors Note: Checking in on the 1999 Barbarescos is an article from the Vinous Archive that is being published for the first time.