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Articles by: Natasha Lardera

Life & People

In a class of their own

The good news is that, when accompanied by a secret code, food tends to be of good quality rather than being strange or mysterious! A lot of Italian products feature the PDO code. These three letters stand for Protected Designation of Origin. The mark is guaranteed by the European Union and was created to promote the authenticity and artisan characteristics of certain food and agricultural products. These skilled artisans are engaged in producing the designated items in specific regions. Italy accounts for about a fifth of all the PDO products in Europe which are split into the categories of cheese, fruit and vegetables, cold cuts or meats and olive oils.

Many PDO products are welcome in the United States, a country that imports thousands and thousands delicacies regularly. Following are the descriptions of some of the most imported products. According to historical documents, between the end of the sixteenth and the early seventeenth century specialized olive-growing techniques were introduced to Western Liguria, whence the name of the Taggiasca cultivar is derived. Olio Extravergine d'Oliva Riviera Ligure has an acidity of 0.80 %. Its color ranges from yellow to yellow-green. The fruity scent is medium to low in intensity. The taste is fruity with sweet tones. This oil makes an ideal seasoning if one does not wish to alter the essential taste of a dish. The production zone eligible for the PDO certification consists of the entire region of Liguria. Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena has a fascinating history, this vinegar became so prized during the Middle Ages that it was considered a family treasure and given as a gift to bribe kings and Popes. To make outstanding traditional balsamic vinegar, the producer must have barrels, dating back several generations so the vinegars can be artfully blended. It takes decades to develop a full-bodied, balanced balsamic vinegar that passes the examination of the consorzio, is bottled in a special flask and labeled as Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. Since Balsamic Vinegar is created with the long, slow system of aging, similar to the solera system used for making sherry and some of Tuscany's Vin Santo, the resulting Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena is not sharp or pungent. Instead, it is sweet, mildly tart with complex fruit, rather intoxicatingly addictive, the perfect anointment for many dishes. Emilia-Romagna is one of three Italian regions famous for its prosciutto, produced in the province of Parma. The making of Prosciutto di Parma is a real craft. No steroids or hormones are permitted and no additives such as water, nitrites, sugar, spice and smoke are permitted during the curing and aging process. Each leg is brushed, trimmed and smoothed, salted and hung to rest, washed, then hung and air-cured in a temperature-and-humidity controlled room for more than 300 days; for export into the United States, it is a minimum of 400 days. With an annual production of more than 10 million Prosciutti di Parma, more than 5.000 pounds are imported annually into the United States. Each Prosciutto has to pass inspection and then receive the brand of the five pointed-ducal crown brand, guaranteeing quality and origin. Only then, it can be called Prosciutto di Parma. Prosciutto di Parma is so loved, that some of Emilia-Romagna's producers have been consultants to other countries, such as Canada and the United states for more than 15 years, advising their experts on how to best breed and raise the pigs to obtain delicious prosciutto.

But Prosciutto di Parma is not the only delicacy that must be marked; the application of the Parmigiano Reggiano mark identifies the cheese that was recognized as being of the first category (first grade - zero - one) during the grade selection test for the conformity to D.O.P. standards. The wheels having the market characteristics of the first category bear marks of origin (the dotted inscription and the oval hot iron branded mark. Parmigiano–Reggiano is made with milk from cows whose feeding mainly consists of forage from the area in which they are kept. The milk used is raw and cannot undergo any heat treatments, such as pasteurization; additionally, the use of additives of any kind is strictly forbidden. It takes 160 gallons of milk to make one 80 lb wheel. Fermenting whey from the previous day’s production is then added to the milk, and the mixture is heated and stirred slowly. When the proper temperature is reached, calf rennet – a natural extract – is added. After a few minutes coagulation begins. The milk curdling takes place inside copper vats shaped like truncated cones. After curdling, the curd is broken up into pieces the size of wheat grains using a long-handled whisk. The curd is again stirred and heated to precise temperatures. These curd grains are then left to settle to the bottom of the vat in order to form a compact mass. Mass is raised with a wooden paddle and cut into two pieces. Each piece is wrapped in cheesecloth and placed in circular wooden molds. After a few hours, the cheesecloth is removed and a special stamp is inserted between the cheese and the mold. The stamp forms a series of impressions around the sides of the wheel marking it with the number of the cheese maker, the production month and year, and the pin dots that form the legally protected name Parmigiano-Reggiano. After a few days, cheeses are immersed in salt brine for 20 to 25 days, and then briefly exposed to the sun before being taken to the room where it is aged 18 to 24 months or more.

All DOP products are labeled, so, when you are out grocery shopping, make sure that what you are buying is the real deal!

The baths of the gods

...well being, a quality which tends to get trampled by the stress of daily life. Italy is rich with springs whose water is abundant in natural elements. Spa water will help you regenerate your mind and body, and attain a level of healthy living and inner serenity. We have snooped around and found ten marvelous spas with springs, natural swimming pools, and many other amenities that can transport you to a level of total bliss. The tradition of spas is well rooted in Italy: These sources of rejuvenation were already known in the days of Emperor Augustus, and many of Italy’s greatest minds took advantage of their powers, including dramatist Luigi Pirandello and composer Giuseppe Verdi. Chianciano Terme, in the province of Siena, Tuscany (www.chiancianoterme.com). This is a spa resort whose mineral water is enriched with healing elements. Situated approximately 1.800 feet above sea level, the spa offers a great climate and many advantages for tourists due to its exceptional location. The spa is blessed with mild weather and a healthy, pristine environment. Today, Chianciano offers four springs: Acqua Santa, used as refreshment while fasting, and prescribed as a cure for the liver; Acqua Fucoli, an afternoon elixir suited for gastric disturbances; Acqua Sillene, with a high content of carbon dioxide, used for the preparation of mud baths; and Acqua Santissima, rich in mineral salts and used for inhalation. Capri Palace Hotel & Spa, in Capri, Campania (www.capri-palace.com). Perched on the highest part of the island, the CapriPalace is magnificent. It features spa treatments such as anti-stress massage, body toning, hydro-massage, sauna, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi, and more. Water treatments utilize the richly fortified waters of nearby natural springs. A large physical therapy saline pool is right off the entryway of the hotel. The pool is utilized for passive physical treatments, repairing individual motor function, and recovery after physical trauma or injury. Bagni di Bormio, in Bormio, Lombardy (www.bagnidibormio.it). A vacation at Bagni di Bormio Spa Resort, in the heart of the Alps, is a unique experience that has been enjoyed for more than 2.000 years, from the time of the Romans. In its spa centers, Bagni Vecchi and Bagni Nuovi, there are more than sixty different thermal offerings, of which eleven are open-air tubs or pools. Immersion in thermal waters, maintained at a naturally hot (100° to 109°F) temperature, is alternated with relaxation in the mountain sun. The massage centers are not simply part of a health spa, but represent the culmination of a process of physical and mental regeneration. The process begins with immersion in hot thermal waters that prepare the body to receive the benefits and healing effects of an aesthetic treatment or a final massage. The hot waters promote the process of exfoliation, thanks to the suspended sulfur-bacteria (natural mud) that makes the skin smooth and velvety. Bagno Vignoni, in Tuscany (www.bagnovignoni.it). The most outstanding characteristic of Bagno Vignoni, besides its thermal waters, is its structure, which has remained unaltered through time. In fact, its piazza isn’t like any other; it is characterized by hot water, that gushes out at 125°F. The tub for the thermal waters is in fact in the center of the piazza, closed on three sides by an enclosing wall almost a five feet tall. Inside are some of the buildings, realized by Bernardo Rossellino in honor of Pope Pio II, and the open gallery where Saint Caterina of Siena visited. It’s from there, in the great tub in which Lorenzo de’ Medici (Lorenzo the Magnificent) bathed in the 16th century, that one can admire one of the region’s most splendid vistas. Masseria San Domenico Spa, in the province of Brindisi, Puglia (www.masseriasandomenico.com). Here seawater is used as the essential element of thalasso-therapy. Its salinity, rich in minerals, make it a prime source of purification for the human body. The water is drawn from deep underground, 1,300 feet below the sea. Filtered and rendered pure of bacteria, the water is reheated by the spa’s facilities that employ state of the art equipment. Another natural gift that comes from the sea is seaweed; these aquatic vegetables have concentrations of minerals and vitamins indispensable to the health of our biological functions. Broken up or pulverized, they are used with seawater in hydro-massage or for compresses. Seawater and seaweed create an exceptional cocktail that releases liberating, stress-relieving, invigorating, and detoxifying virtues. The nucleus of Masseria San Domenico was built in the 15th century and is comprised of a watchtower that belonged to the Knights of Malta, who had their main base in Puglia in the nearby port of Santo Stefano. Grotta Giusti Terme, in the province of Pistoia, Tuscany (www.grottagiustispa.com). In Monsummano, in the heart of beautiful Tuscany, rich in enchanting hills and cities of art and culture, one finds a natural masterpiece, Grotta Giusti. The thousand-year-old cave, marvelous and intact, is hidden among the carbonic rocks of the mountain that shelters it. The cave extends for over two hundred yards underground, creating labyrinths, decorated by stalactites and stalagmites and spacious caverns. At the base of the cavity there lies a crystalline mirror of hot thermal waters that emit a beneficial and therapeutic vapor. The spacious vaults in the rock form ideal rooms for natural saunas and detoxifying treatments. This exclusive pleasure is the secret that has made the Grotta Giusti famous. The pathways of the underground area are such that they create pockets with different temperatures. Proceeding from the entrance toward the deepest parts of the Grotta, one in fact crosses three temperature zones, each getting hotter and hotter, so that tradition has baptized them Heaven, Purgatory, and Hell. BoarioTerme, in the province of Brescia, Lombardy (www.termediboario.it). This ideal destination for a relaxing stay combines physical and mental well-being with bodily health in a location that is extremely interesting from a tourist's point of view. Treatments are categorized in four specific “objective programs” (that can be found together on the program), born from the collaboration between Doctors Coiro and Zanardi from the University of Parma. Their goal was to propose a mix of synergetic thermal cures, to treat in an even more effective way disturbances of the intestine, liver, joints, and blood circulation. Each program is accompanied by a series of recommendations, which are explained to clients by the doctors. The programs are designed so clients can continue to follow this advice even after they return home. This approach represents an innovative point of view, as the Terme di Boario isn’t only designed as a place of curing, but also as a guide to better health all year round. The Terme di Boario also boasts “Relax&Beauty,” its center of well being which, from July 2005, has included an innovative service of aesthetic medicine. Hotel Continental Terme, Ischia, in Campania (www.continentalterme.it). This oasis of comfort and beauty is tucked away inside the island of Ischia. Five thermal pools of various sizes and temperatures (82° to 98°F) are harmoniously set among the green and exotic flowers of the garden. From its volcanic origins, the island of Ischia is extremely rich in thermal-mineral springs that have made it, from the 7th century, a famous source of thermal cures. A basin of thermal-mineral waters of particular interest is the one situated in the Fondo Bosso area, where the Hotel Continental Terme is situated. At Club Benessere spa, the curative effects of the thermal waters are integrated with the most modern techniques in massage, physical therapy, and aesthetic medicine to restore health or to enhance beauty. The therapeutic program is practiced and personalized by a team of specialists. Abano Terme, in the province of Prodenone, in Veneto (www.abanoterme.net). Abano currently boasts 78 thermal hotels, 120 pools, 50 tennis courts, parks and gardens, and services of the highest quality in the field of thermal cures. It combines these resources with aesthetic cures and fitness, to regenerate the body in all of its aspects. The city’s claim to fame, its thermal water and mud, are practically unique in their therapeutic properties. Known and exploited since Roman times 2.000 years ago, the spa’s thermal water has only recently revealed its secret. In-depth studies conducted by the University of Padova and the Centro Studi Termali Pietro D’Abano have established that the layers of thermal water present in the subsoil of the entire area are from the precipitation of the Pre-Alps, in particular from the Lessini Mountains above Verona. To complete this subterranean journey of almost 60 miles and arrive in the Euganean area, the water takes an estimated time of 25 to 30 years, in the course of which it is enriched with dozens of different mineral salts. The chemical composition if the water is extremely important. When it’s added to the mud, it’s ready to begin its therapeutic actions against the scope of rheumatic illnesses, osteoarthritis, joint pains, trauma, and fractures, not to mention maladies of the respiratory system. Terme di Saturnia (Saturnia Thermal Baths), province of Grosseto, Tuscany (www.termedisaturnia.com). The sulfuric water of this region rises from underground at a rate of more than 200 gallons a second and a constant temperature of 98°F. Rich in bicarbonate and sulfates, the water has health-stimulating properties, effective for the skin, the respiratory system, and the skeletal system.

Art & Culture

The Venetian Dilemma

This situation of decadence is captured in the documentary The Venetian Dilemma, city or theme park?, shot by Carole and Richard Rifkind in 2004 with the aim to raise the important question on the future of Venice to the surface. “We all know that Venice is a deeply loved city,” the Rifkinds have declared, “That the story of Venice resonates in communities everywhere…however each time we return to this beloved place we are struck anew, and with even greater force, by the way in which economic and demographic change, an increasingly globalized economy and ever-growing tourism, are, relentlessly, depriving the city of it “Venetianness”. We feel deep sympathy with the growing sense of malaise amidst our Venetian friends. And we have come to understand that, as foreigners, we are part of the problem. So, we have also come to accept that, as foreigners, we must also make a contribution towards a solution.” The Rifkinds bought a house in Venice about eighteen years ago and when they started making the film, more than seven years ago, they were not filmmakers by profession. Richard was a medical researcher and Carole was an architectural historian. But the necessity rose to do something for their adoptive city so, in order to document the dramatic transformation that was taking place in Venice, they shot the documentary. The making of the film was long and intensive, sometime even problematic. They conducted long interviews with more than 50 Venetians, another 25 non-Venetians. Although the protagonists of the film are four, Venice is the real star. In the film, Roberto D’Agostino, the deputy mayor of Venice, wants to “Lead Venice out of the stranglehold of the touristic monoeconomy. He intends to exploit the historic Arsenale zone by redeveloping it for new 21st century smokeless industries,” the directors explain, “He claims the critical importance of improved access of the island city from the Italian mainland and its international airport by mean of an underwater subway.” Needless to say the reactions against Mr. D’Agostino are strong. Paolo Lanapoppi, a writer and a self-made environmentalist, is leading the opposition against the creation of the Metro and has won a ten year battle against the powerful impact of the numerous tourist-serving motor boats whose speed and turbulence undermine the fragile foundation of the city buildings. Michela Scibilia is also fighting his own fight. A graphic designer and mother of two, she is battling the city government against the building of the Metro and of new hotels, and is in favor of creating new day-care facilities for children. She, just like Danilo Palmieri, the last protagonist, is a Venetian who stubbornly hangs on and doesn’t want to leave as all the people of her generation are doing. The film is dedicated to all “Those who fight for the life of their city,” and it raises some important issues such as the decline of a city that produces culture to one that cannibalizes culture, and it offers no solution, that explains the title of the film. “But we believe that there are a series of critical choices, a direction Venice must follow, and a path that can lead to a future in which new generations will thrive, proliferate and generate a new, vital, contemporary Venetianness of their own,” the directors have explained. A beautiful Venice can be discovered every day if you step off the main drag of tourists and step into the subdued, shabby charm of the real city, where Baroque churches are framed by the lines of laundry flapping in the breeze. Venice is built on 117 small islands, it has 150 canals and 409 bridge. The historic center is divided into six sestieri (quarters) - San Marco, Dorsoduro, San Polo, Santa Croce, Cannaregio, and Castello. The city’s main street is the Grand Canal which passes each of the districts as it twists along the length of Venice from the railways station to San Marco square. The shallow waters of the laguna (lagoon) are dotted by a rich mosaic of islands including Murano (known for its glassmaking tradition), Burano, and Torcello. These islands are accessible by boat and they also attract hordes of tourists. Today Venice is overrun by 14 million annual visitors who vastly outnumber the city’s residents. It is a city out of time and out of place, so unbelievably beautiful it’s hard no to admire it and go back again and again despite the never-ending flow of visitors

Life & People

Not Your Ordinary Pizza

...types of caviar, lobster chunks, crème fraiche, and what else? Its golden, crunchy crust is covered generously with creme fraiche and granished with four different types of high-quality caviar - a total of 226 grams. The pie is then topped with thinly sliced lobster and garnished with red and green caviar, smoked salmon, and finish with a round of Wasabi sauce. Whatever happened to the dear old pizza with its flavorful tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and salty anchovies? "It's not for everyone," says Nino Selimaj, owner of the restaurant, who moved to New York from Albania about 29 years ago, “and you cannot just walk in and get a slice.” Indeed pies must be ordered 24 hours in advance in order to get all the fresh ingredients. “On our opening day we sold two pies…people are willing to try it.” It took him a year to come up with this final recipe, and he admitted to experimenting with truffles before settling on lobster and caviar. It isn't your typical Italian pizza, but a variation that New Yorkers are slowly embracing. New Yorkers are open to all sorts of unusual culinary experiences. It is one of the most expensive places in the world for restaurant meals, yet going out for dinner remains a popular activity. The Big Apple also features the $1,000 omelet at Le Parker Meridien, the $10,000 martini on the rock at the Algonquin Hotel, and Serendipity sells a $1,000 ice-cream sundae called Golden Opulence which is covered in 23K edible gold leaf. What will they think of doing next? Diamond-studded lasagna?

Life & People

Molecular Cuisine

Well, we found a place where ice cream is made in a totally different way. Award winning chef Ettore Bocchia of Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni in Bellagio prepares it, right at your table at Mistral, the hotel’s most informal restaurant, with nitrogen. Liquid, vanilla flavored cream is slowly poured into a metal bowl as liquid nitrogen is added. After only a few minutes of quick whisking, ice cream magically appears. We are indeed talking about magic as the entire action looks to be out of a fairy tale where from a smoky cauldron the chef/magician concocts a savory potion. Chef Bocchia serves his ice cream on top of apple-flavored jelly in a martini glass. It’s a rather alternative way for such a classic location.

Bellagio, an oasis of tranquility, has been a favored vacationing destination for centuries.

The only 5-star luxury hotel in Bellagio is characterized by a discreet touch of exclusiveness. Overlooking the foothills of the Alps on the shore of the majestic Lake Como, the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni offers a unique mix of the magical romance of its historic salons as well as a complete range of the most up-to-date services. This spectacular place, adored by the most demanding and refined guests, dates from 1850, and was originally intended as a holiday villa. Two wings were added in 1873 and the Grand Hotel became the spot where all the aristocracy wanted to be for a quiet rest away from daily life or for sumptuous balls and ceremonies. For generations, since 1918 to be exact, the Grand Hotel has belonged to the Bucher family, which runs and manages it in the highest professional standards. The first-born male is the one who inherits the grand enterprise.

The Grand Hotel welcomes two restaurants: La Terrazza, set on the large terrace overlooking the lake, offers traditional cuisine accompanied by live music (for dinner only).

Mistral, located at ground level close to the swimming pool, specializes in molecular gastronomy, which has earned chef Ettore Bocchia, who overlooks both restaurants, one Michelin Star. True, the name may seem intimidating but there is nothing weird about molecular cuisine. “We are interacting with the food’s molecules,” explains Ettore, “so there is no other way to call it.” Over 30 years ago the Hungarian scientist and gastronomist Nicholas Kurti, now recognized as the pioneer of molecular cuisine, started the first studies and experiments on low temperatures, trying to discover new technical frontiers and gastronomic opportunities.

Mr. Kurti is known for saying, “We know almost everything about the temperature of the atmosphere on Venus. What a shame that we know so little about the temperature of a soufflé!” Indeed molecular cuisine revises all traditional cooking methods to create new tastes that complement rather than overpower each other. “There are some scientific passages, “Ettore explains, “that allow you to know what happens inside a pot in order to optimize each and every ingredient.” In Italy, molecular cuisine was introduced 13 years ago by Dejenne, a physicist who won the Nobel Prize for the classification of soft substances. “I have been studying with Davide Cassi, professor of physics of matter at the University of Parma, for 4 years, differently from my colleagues who work with chemists. Basically our cuisine is molecular because we have applied scientific concepts to food using traditional products but in an unconventional way. We have developed new ways of cooking for example with sugar, that we use to fry.”

At the moment, Italy, Spain, France, and England are at the forefront of this type of cuisine that is slowly reaching the United States. In Italy there is a real manifesto of rules, the first one being that each innovation must improve, not destroy, and respect traditional Italian gastronomy.

The molecular menu offered at Mistral features Sicilian red prawns with guacamole ice cream, coconut cream and starch vegetable waffles, Celery starch dumplings with Italian caviar, and turbot baked in sugar (in order to prevent it from getting sweet it must be wrapped in leeks) served with a leek sauce and vegetables. Cooking this way to create new flavors can improve the quality of food not only on a gastronomic level but also on a nutritional one. Can we say that molecular cuisine is healthier?

“Yes, we can,” Chef Bocchia affirms, “The dishes on our menu have 40% less of calories. Scientific knowledge allows you to apply any necessity to what you prepare, so if you want it to be healthy, then it will be that way. Molecular cuisine amplifies the horizons of knowledge to determine how much and how well you need to eat. I believe that in a place like this, besides the luxury and the appeal to serve something a bit avant garde, it’s important to serve something that is fresh and nutritious.

Ingredients of the highest quality are at the heart of Ettore’s molecular cuisine, a cuisine focused on highlighting the flavors and values of each selected piece. “I cannot work without the basic elements of Mediterranean gastronomy,” Ettore explains, “There are some basic flavors and aromas in my cooking that come from the recipes of my very Italian childhood.” Indeed his studies concentrate on an in-depth analysis of the most characteristic elements of Italian cuisine: pasta, fish and vegetables. “Because 60% of my guests are American I want to offer them a truly unique experience of Italian flavors at their best,” he continues. The hotel offers Ettore the opportunity to continue experimenting and presenting new and unique menus by traveling to foreign countries to study their culinary trends, by attending seminars, and by meeting personally with small producers of high quality products. As Mr. Bucher point out, “The grand Hotel continues to offer the highest quality Mediterranean and international cuisine, but the challenge is to keep improving on all fronts, and molecular cuisine is a challenge of the future.”

Life & People

Are They Really Italian?

...lost her appetite during pregnancy. To restore it Alfredo went to his kitchen and mixed egg noodles with parmigiano cheese and butter, creating a dish that his wife couldn’t resist.” Little did he know that years later millions of people in the world would have loved it too. We got our answer…

Fettuccine Alfredo really is an Italian dish. The original Alfredo’s restaurant is located in the heart of the historic center of Rome, Piazza Augusto Imperatore, and it has always been run by Alfredo’s family. In the ‘60s it was THE place where to enjoy La Dolce Vita; international stars like James Stewart, Jack Lemmon, Sophia Loren used to meet there to hang out and enjoy something good to eat.

In 1977, a devoted fan of the Roman restaurant, Guido Bellanca, opened Alfredo II in New York, where Fettuccine Alfredo started its rise to success. The restaurant and its staff are devoted to maintaining a high standard of extremely authentic Italian cuisine and, of course, preserving the original fettuccine Alfredo’s recipe.

Fettuccine Alfredo has now become a staple in Italian-American restaurants in the United States, though in Italy, it is mostly served to American tourists. Some variations see chicken or shrimp served on top of the noodles, while Alfredo sauce is sold in food stores nationwide produced by several brands. Almost a hundred years have passed since Alfredo first created his signature pasta dish but fans continue to grow and to cherish this simple yet delicious dish.

And now Mr. Bellanca, the current heir of this institution, is very passionate about promoting authentic Italian cuisine. “In my restaurant I take you back to Rome in the 1960’s through music, design, but mostly through food”.