Best Pintxo Bars in San Sebastian, Spain

by Ingrid K. Williams

on 03/06/14 at 11:00 AM

In Spain's Basque Country, Michelin stars may command international attention, but the real forces propelling the culinary scene are the pintxo bars.

Pintxos, the smaller Basque cousins of Spanish tapas, are small bites usually eaten while standing with a drink, commonly the fizzy white wine called txakoli. Today, a pintxo can be anything from the traditional Gilda--a toothpick skewering an anchovy, guindilla pepper, and olive--to complex plates that justify the phrase "haute cuisine in miniature."

To sample the full spectrum of pintxo offerings, head to the undeniably gorgeous coastal town of San Sebastián. Although locals may prefer the old-fashioned bars in the town's Gros neighborhood, the best pintxos are still served in the Parte Vieja, or Old Town. To guarantee unforgettable eating, you don't need an expense account, just a little guidance to steer you right. Here are the five best spots that ought to be on any txikiteo, or pintxo bar crawl.

(Read on for San Sebastián's best pintxo bars after the jump.)

An excellent place to start a txikiteo is Txepetxa, a bar in the typical style--long on wood and short on frills--that for decades has been specializing in one thing: anchovies plucked from the Cantabrian Sea. Here, plump silvery anchovies are served on pieces of toast with over a dozen different toppings, but the best are the anchoas a la jardinera: white anchovies marinated in vinegar that arrive under a colorful mound of finely diced onion and peppers.

After this traditional start, head down the block to a modern spot known for its experimental pintxos. At Bar Zeruko, the counters are piled high with eye-catching offerings--stuffed sea urchins, pistachio-encrusted morcilla (blood sausage)--but the most creative pintxos come from the menu. The award-winning La Hoguera ("the bonfire") features a piece of cod smoked on a metal grate atop a tiny personal firepit. But the most delicious pintxo is the tosta de bogavante, an open-face lobster roll of sorts, slathered with garlicky aioli.

Most pintxo bars have only one or two specialties that they excel at, so knowing which pintxo to choose is just as important as knowing which bar to pop into. The exception is Borda Berri, where the only disappointment on the chalkboard menus--everything is cooked to order--arises when a horizontal line appears, crossing off a dish that's sold out for the night. It's best to visit early before that fate befalls the aromatic risotto de hongos (mushrooms) or the unfathomably tender carrilleras, veal cheeks braised in red wine.

In a town where interior design is almost always an afterthought, there's no mistaking A Fuego Negro. The bold black and red color scheme gives this avant-garde bar a somewhat subversive vibe that extends to menu items like the black rabas, lightly fried doughnut-shaped croquettas whose creamy, jet-black interior is tinted with squid ink. Don't miss the beloved Makobe, a mini Kobe beef burger between ketchup-infused buns, served with crisp banana "txips."

Black rabas

The last stop of the night should be Atari Gastroteka, in the shadow of the beautiful baroque Basílica de Santa María. Here, pass on the pintxos laid out on the bar and instead order the foie artesano--slices of house-made foie gras, simply seasoned with salt and pepper, atop toasted raisin bread. Those seeking a sweet finale should try the helado de queso, goat-cheese ice cream with raspberry sauce. And to drink, order a well-mixed (and garnished) gin and tonic, the cocktail that Spain treats as both a digestif and an unquenchable obsession.