VG-10

Spyderco released Paul Alexander’s Ouroboros in 2016, and they discontinued the model last year. I waited until now to review it because I’ve carried and used the knife as my primary every day carry for several months—the only worthwhile review comes from someone who has actually cut something with the knife. Knife unboxings are fun to watch but they aren’t valuable reviews. And although the claim seems counterintuitive, I’m also reviewing the Ouroboros now because Spyderco discontinued it. Many reviews are nothing more than unwanted advertisements disguised as friendly advice. The Ouroboros provides an excellent option for a small EDC blade, and the reason you can be certain is that you can’t buy it from a retailer anymore.

An EDC blade should have a good steel in a versatile blade shape, and the Ouroboros has both. Even though VG-10 no longer excites steel junkies, its balance of toughness, corrosion resistance, edge retention, and ease of sharpening make it a solid all-round steel. There are better steels on the market, for sure, but VG-10 takes a mirror edge and holds it fairly well. Under light use such as slicing paper and cutting packing tape, VG-10 can hold an edge of 15 degrees per side, but the 20-degree factory bevel on my Ouroboros gives it the extra strength needed to push through cardboard and carrots. I wouldn’t try to baton through kindling with it but the blade has been tough enough for everyday use, and I haven’t seen a spot of rust.

Sharpening VG-10 with machine-guided stones followed by hand stropping has been about as easy as 440C, and much easier than notoriously hard steels such as ZDP-189 or S90V. The blade’s leaf shape and deep finger choil allow for a number of secure grips: you can rest your thumb on top of the blade with your forefinger behind the choil, pinch the thin tang near the Spyder-hole for kitchen tasks, or pinch-grip the handle just behind the tang to use the whole blade (just under 3 inches). The blade design also aids sharpening by avoiding Spyderco’s dreaded plunge grind where the edge bevel gets close to the ricasso, making it difficult to sharpen the blade along the entire edge.

The Ouroboros uses Spyderco’s patented compression lock, one of the most secure locking mechanisms on the market. We expect a folding knife’s lock not to fail, but the compression lock offers something that others don’t: it’s just plain fun to use! I Spyder-flick the blade with my middle finger and then press the liner tab to let the blade drop freely back into the handle. I hold the tab down and wrist-flick the blade back out. I shoot the blade back out with my thumb… It’s addictive.

The lock’s tab is the only visible part of the nested liners. The handle scales are grippy, but they aren’t the pattern of G-10 that shreds denim as you pull the knife out of your pocket. The Ouroboros fits snugly into the watch pocket of jeans because its handle is under a half-inch wide and it is just over 4 inches long. Once it’s clipped into the pocket, the lanyard hole and the paperclip-style pocket clip (the same size as the Dragonfly 2’s) are all that’s visible.

The knife’s specs and features make it a solid EDC choice, but it’s the subtle aesthetic details that make it not just my favorite knife to carry but also my favorite to admire. When it’s closed, the Ouroboros looks like it was designed to stay closed. Resting upright on a table, the knife balances on a few millimeters of G-10 behind the lock’s tab. Blade and handle look like an elongated oval, with the base of the blade’s spine emerging smoothly from the top of the handle, and the blade’s ample tip concealed within the narrow swirl at the handle’s base. The G-10 dips at the center of the handle, and a grind line—the transition from the thicker spine to the blade’s flat grind—cuts through the opening hole and across the blade at an angle that matches the handle’s sinuous line.

When the knife is open, it’s hard to believe that the tall blade came out of the narrow handle. The knife uniformly curves from tip to handle base, as if it were a few degrees taken from a large circle. In the hand, the spine’s curve rests comfortably along your palm. The balance point sits just below the lock’s tab, about where your middle finger rests in a standard grip. The curve and the balance point make an already light knife (just over 2.5 ounces) seem to be a weightless extension of your hand.

The Ouroboros is, for me, a perfect EDC. No two users will completely agree, but the foregoing review was my honest opinion, taken from months of enjoyment. Reviewers during the initial marketing push following the knife’s release had some fair criticisms: the knife was priced too high ($289.95 MSRP) for a small knife with a VG-10 blade, and Spyderco skimped when they used Teflon rather than phosphor-bronze
washers. In my experience, the washers have felt smooth and have been durable. The price kept me from buying the knife initially; I waited until the street price was well under 50% of MSRP before I bought one. With that said I’d pay full MSRP to replace it, if I had to.

New reviews all but disappeared shortly after the marketing phase, as they usually do. Some people reviewed the Ouroboros because they enjoy collecting or using knives and they wanted others to experience the same. They also might have done it because they hoped that attracting subscribers to their social media accounts would eventually allow them to quit their 9-5 grinds. Both are noble causes. But it has become more difficult to sort honest knife reviews from disguised advertisements.

I found myself confused during the time that I was reading and watching reviews, trying to decide whether to spend my hard-earned money on an Ouroboros. I struggled to answer simple questions: Is this a good knife, or have I just read an “advertorial”? A portmanteau of advertisement and editorial, an advertorial is a way for marketers to deliver ads that appear to be friendly advice. Search for a review online and you’ll encounter advertorials that conveniently offer a link to purchase the knife. Watch video reviews and the reviewers might mention that a manufacturer or a retailer provided the samples, or they might not. The most valuable PR is a consumer’s endorsement of a
product on social media, which appears to be unsolicited but is often just the opposite.

Knife addicts, steel junkies, edge snobs… all of us are susceptible to nefarious marketing schemes when we’re researching a potential purchase. One way to make a clearer decision is to avoid reviews of knives still available for purchase, or at least to maintain a healthy skepticism. Consider the reviewer’s or the website’s ethics. Does the reviewer pull the knife out of a box and tell you how great it is, with a few detractors added for credibility, or has the reviewer already carried and used the knife? Does the reviewer disclose who provided the knife and how that might influence the review? Does the website explain why there are links to purchase the knife within an article, or just following it? If you can’t answer those questions, then you should move on to another review.

My review of the Ouroboros arose from a deep enjoyment of the knife, and I wanted to share that with like-minded people. If you’d like to purchase any of the Ouroboroses that I’ve stockpiled since it has been DISCONTINUED, click on the link below to check out my online auctions…

Author: Christian Zawojski

Note from the Editor: Christian wanted to submit this as a guest review for publication, so I thought “why not?” It’s interesting knife and commentary on knife reviewers. Thank you, Christian for the entertaining and thought provoking article!

I’ve been vocal in my dislike of the Delica. I’ve been critical of its ergonomics, its steel, its price point. I was convinced that it was overrated, past its prime. I implied that it only continued to sell because of the years’ worth of mythology that surrounds it. In short, I said it was a bad knife, and I was wrong.

As I have slowly learned in recent times, the Delica was and is a truly great knife. It’s still a benchmark for quality and utility in the mid-price bracket. So when Spyderco revealed the Delica 4 Wharncliffe I snapped one up to review. It was an opportunity to approach the Delica from a critical perspective and formalize a lot of the good things I have come to think about it.

–Well, assuming that the Wharncliffe blade wasn’t a total catastrophe, of course. Does the new blade shape make the classic EDC option better, worse, or just different? Let’s take a look.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The D4W has a cutting edge that is 2.5” long and a total blade length of 3”. Its handle is 4 1/8” and it has an overall length of 7”. It weighs 2.4 oz. and is made in Seki City, Japan. Like the standard Delica it is designed for EDC, and all of its dimensions are well-suited for that role except one, which I’ll discuss later on.

The Wharncliffe provides an interesting shift in cutting attributes. It’s less a matter of performance than of control. A synergy between the angle of your grip in relation to the point means that it always goes exactly where you want it to, opening packages and boxes with surgical precision. It feels as responsive as if I were aiming with a laser pointer. In that same “normal” grip the straight main edge is angled upwards too, pre-situated for an aggressive cutting approach.

There’s a bonus grip that the Wharncliffe shape especially excels at. Because the blade itself is so wide, you can move up it in a modified pinch grip that gives you supreme control. You can use this grip on the standard Delica too, but it feels better here with the extra steel in hand. And there’s something very people-friendly about it (probably because you’re palming most of the knife), so if you’re opening something around others this may become your grip of choice.

I’ve been dismissive of VG-10 in the past but I’ve come to appreciate it. It emphasizes ease of maintenance and in an EDC blade that’s great. Rust resistance is superb, edge retention is reasonable, and sharpening isn’t too much of a chore. Be forewarned: it does take more time than AUS-8 or 8Cr13MoV. It might not feel like you’re improving the edge at all, at first. But stick with it and all of a sudden you’ll notice it getting very sharp. I also find that straight edges are easier to sharpen than curved ones on a rod-based system, so if you have a Sharpmaker or similar setup you’re in luck.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

We’re all familiar with the Delica handle shape: a simple curve with three separate finger grooves sculpted into the FRN scales. Bi-directional texturing, nested and milled stainless steel liners: a familiar construction, but a stable, durable, and proven one.

It took me a long time to appreciate the Delica’s ergonomics. The three grooves seemed restrictive; there was basically only one way to hold the knife. But that one way is comfortable and effective.

I’ve already talked about how on this Wharncliffe model it helps align the cutting edge, but in general Spyderco has done a lot with a relatively narrow handle. Once you get the hang of it, it feels roomy and right. I used to have trouble getting my fingers to align with those grooves, but now that rarely happens; I guess I developed some kind of muscle memory or something. It’s also worth noting that the grooves aren’t sharp enough to be uncomfortable even if your hand isn’t perfectly aligned on them. This design could be improved with a true finger choil. As it is, with the D4W in particular the modified pinch grip on the blade makes up for this somewhat, and you can put your index finger underneath the kick in a rough approximation of a choil if you want.

The classic spoon clip is still the best clip Spyderco makes. I like the increase in durability over the wire clip, and I don’t think the lack of deep carry is much of a loss – I like having a little bit of knife exposed to grab onto. It’s a perfect fit for the Delica, too, with the pinch point being near the center of the knife to keep it from swinging around in your pocket.

There is one issue of note with the D4W and that is its width. It’s as wide as a Paramilitary 2 in the pocket. That’s a significant deviation from slimness of the standard Delica 4 and worth being aware of before you make the purchase. I like being able to reach into my pocket and not have my knife blocking up the passage, and while the D4W is by no means terribly wide it is definitely noticeable, and definitely worse when compared to the vanilla model.

Spyderco could have changed the blade profile, making it less bulbous, but it was kept this way by design. The D4W came to be after a Spyderco forumite drew it up to meet his specific needs during the workday. One of his requirements was to have a wide enough blade so that it could be easily opened with two hands if need be, and the extra material helps with that. It also helps with the modified pinch grip. Taken in context, the wide blade is actually a “feature,” albeit one that comes with a serious drawback, so be aware.

Deployment and Lockup

The Round Hole works as good here as it has on every other Spyderco knife since the dawn of time. Comfortable and ambidextrous, it doesn’t really get any better than this. As a lockback, the Delica 4 Wharncliffe isn’t going to have the fastest deployment in the world, but it is certainly adequate, and over time as the parts wear against each other it will get smoother and smoother. My five year old Delica is nice and buttery. This is a knife that will age gracefully.

Durability and reliability will be high with the D4W’s lock. In my example there is no side to side or up and down play, and no lock flex except in the heaviest cuts. Lockbacks are also naturally ambidextrous – a nice synergy with the Round Hole and symmetrical handle design on the Delica. I also appreciate that disengagement is not overly stiff – some lockbacks are real thumb bruisers, but this one is nice and easy, without being dangerously loose or anything.

Delica 4 Wharncliffe Review – Final Thoughts

The Delica 4 Wharncliffe is a great addition to the Delica corral. A new blade shape is a meaningful change and one that will, I think, work for certain types of users better than the normal drop point. The additional width in the pocket is a bummer and is the biggest flaw I can see in what is otherwise a pretty spectacular EDC.

Truth is, a lot of users won’t care about the additional pocket space required. They’ll relish the extreme control and precision of the Wharncliffe blade shape, qualities that are enhanced by the time-tested Delica handle design.

So I’m glad of the opportunity to talk some sugar about the Delica in general, and also happy to report that this new version is entirely worthy of your attention on its own. It doesn’t make a great design any better, but it’s a different, valid interpretation of one of the best EDC knives in the world.

If you are thinking of buying a Spyderco Delica Wharncliffe, please consider purchasing it at Amazon or BladeHQ. By purchasing things through any of the links on this website you support BladeReviews.com, keep the website free of annoying banner ads, and help produce future reviews. Thank you very much.

It’s a question I (and others) have been asking a lot lately: Where is the middle?

The Budget Knife has had its day: the Tenacious, the Cryo, the Skyline, the RAT-1, the Drifter; value was the byword of the industry, and knife makers were showing some serious creativity and finesse working under the restrictive parameters of budget knife design.

Similarly, 2015 saw the high end of the market really take off, with a stream of great $150 announced and released. The materials were different – S35VN and titanium instead of 8Cr13MoV and black polymers – but the feverish pace of invention and the way in which our expectations for quality were reset were the same.

But the middle was more or less ignored. Companies’ attention was clearly elsewhere, and this is a shame. Designs in the middle of the market (let’s say the $60-$100 range) are some of the historical best: things like the Delica and the Mini Gripitilian have good materials and great designs at an affordable price. If I were feeling polemical, I’d say that the middle of the market is the only segment in which you can shake the feeling of having to have compromised: with a budget knife, even a good one, you can’t help but think it could be improved with better steel or execution; with a high end knife, you feel like you’re paying a lot for only a little more performance.

In the middle you can get, if not the best, the more-than-adequate of both worlds. Great design, great fit and finish, great materials and steel. Less compromise, more performance. But, there just aren’t a lot of designs coming out that cater to this segment; this is why Kizer’s Vanguard series, and in particular the Vanguard Gemini, excited me so much: this is a quality design, by a famous custom maker, at a very affordable price point. As soon as I was able to, I picked one up.

But there are a lot of questions here: is it a good knife? Is it a good knife for the money? Is a good knife compared to the classics of the middle genre? Is it a better value than the premium version? The answers are complicated, and intertwine; so let’s get into it.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Gemini has a blade length of 3.125″, an overall length of 7/25″, weighs 3.58 ounces and is made in China. In terms of proportions, it is adequate if not distinctive. Where it really distinguishes itself from other knives like the Delica or the Mini Grip, and even from some Kizer stablemates like the 3404, is in its custom pedigree.

The Gemini is a production version of Ray Laconico’s Jasmine. Really, the Jasmine is less a specific knife than a kind of overarching design or aesthetic, a series of lines and design nuances that are translated from one Laconico knife to another. Sometimes it’s a titanium flipper, sometimes it has a liner lock and a thumbstud, but always there’s a certain aesthetic in play, and I think this aesthetic comes through most clearly, on the various custom iterations and this production riff, in the blade shape.

It’s a drop point, almost a Platonically ideal Loveless drop point except for its somewhat more elongate tip. Although this is a larger knife than the SRM 710, it too embodies an excellent, near perfect combination of edge types: you have your straight edge, your curving belly, your acute tip. You can slice, pierce, chop gracefully. The single caveat I have is that it isn’t the most robust blade, but in all reasonable use you’ll be delighted. For all around utility, this is up there with some of the best of the best.

The Gemini’s blade is made from VG-10. Certainly VG-10 has fallen from grace in recent years. It’s a really weird steel. It holds an edge better than 8Cr13MoV or AUS-8, but worse than most other mid-tier steels like 154CM or N690Co – and it’s harder to sharpen well. You can get a functional edge back on VG-10 quickly, but to get it really fine you need to work on it for a bit. In short, it has an odd work-to-performance ratio, with no real standout characteristic other than its rust resistance – which, let it be said, is incredible.

The choice of steel is one of a few budget conscious decisions Kizer made when producing the Vanguard Gemini, and probably the least successful of the three. The middle segment of the market doesn’t have a representative steel like 8Cr13MoV or S35VN are for budget and high end knives. There are candidates, like 154CM or N690Co, but nothing established – and, while I don’t hate it, I don’t think that VG-10 should be in the running.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Carry

The Vanguard Gemini handle is G-10, as opposed to titanium on the premium version. And, to be frank, I prefer G-10 over titanium. Besides aesthetics, I don’t know what the argument is for titanium, now that I think about it. It isn’t warm to the touch, it isn’t lighter, it isn’t more durable in any practical sense. If the big advantage of titanium is that it allows for a framelock, that doesn’t sell it, as I find framelocks more or less strictly inferior at this point.

The G-10 on the Gemini is real good. It is grippy, without being outrageously aggressive. It accentuates the simple utility of the straightforward handle, giving you purchase no matter how you’re holding the blade. Compared to the Delica, which has a refined although somewhat dictatorial handle, you have a lot more freedom in terms of how you hold the Gemini.

Reviewing the 3404, the biggest issue I took with the knife besides its overall blandness was the horrible pocket clip. Kizer seems to have learned a lot about pocket clips in the time between the design of that knife and this one, because the clip on the Gemini, in terms of its lines, is very good – smaller than it looks like in pictures, but not in any way that affects carry.

What does affect carry is the clip’s tightness. It’s not terrible, but it can be a pain to pull out of your pocket. I kind of had to pull it out diagonally, in order for my jeans to not get bunched up. It’s not ideal, but I’ll take this minor inconvenience over the atrocious clip on the 3404, every day.

Deployment and Lockup

With the Vanguard Gemini’s flipper, instead of building to a price point Kizer went all out. The flipper on the Vanguard Gemini is as good a flipper as I’ve ever used. The combination of ball-bearing pivot and silky, perfectly-tensioned detent (complete with ceramic detent ball) makes for nearly effortless deployment. Seriously, I had to go out of my way to deploy this thing incorrectly, it’s that responsive.

I don’t think there’s any practical advantage to a flipper design, but like any knife collector, I am susceptible to fidget factor, and the Gemini is absolutely hypnotic and addicting to play with. It makes knives that I thought pretty fast, knives like the 3404, feel sluggish. I carried the Delica 4 again around the time I was testing the Gemini, and the laggardly lockback felt like the relic of a distant age.

Because the Vanguard Gemini has G-10 scales instead of titanium, it uses a liner lock instead of a framelock – to my mind a straight upgrade. I’ve gone on at length before about my distaste for framelocks. I suppose I’ll find one I like at some point, but until then I’ll continue to espouse the liner lock as strictly better – and here on the Vanguard Gemini we have an excellent rendition of the form.

In my experience, every knife I’ve owned has some bladeplay, or develops some over my review/testing period – even if it’s very, very little. So far on the Gemini, I’ve got nothing, and I didn’t baby this knife: a cardboard cut-off with the Delica 4 induced nothing at all. Things may change in the future but, as of now, this thing is solid.

Kizer Vanguard Gemini Review – Final Thoughts

There are three different ways to look at the Gemini. First as the realization of the Kizer Promise. They were making good knives before the Gemini, but nothing that struck me as really top-tier, nothing that really stood out amidst the competition. But the clean, ineffable lines of the Laconico custom have been given a characterful production life by Kizer. If you had any lingering doubts about their legitimacy as a manufacturer, the Gemini will put them to rest.

Second, we can compare the Vanguard Gemini to its higher-end iteration. I don’t think that it’s a question of one being strictly better than the other. I prefer G-10 to titanium and liner locks to framelocks, but S35VN is a better steel. The way I see it, there are a lot of other titanium framelock flippers with S35VN steel in the world, but there’s nothing that looks or flips like the $80 Vanguard Gemini.

Third, we can look at the Vanguard Gemini as a knife in the depopulated middle price bracket. What is its competition? The old standbys, mostly: the Delica 4, the standard Mini Grip. And against these knives I’d say the Gemini falls in the middle: I think all three are excellent designs and great users. It’s largely a matter of personal preference, but the Gemini, with its luxe flipping action and top-tier finish, feels a little nicer than either.

Regardless of where it falls in the overall middle price bracket hierarchy, the Vanguard Gemini is exciting precisely because it brings something new to this much-neglected segment of the market. It routinely sold out online. Maybe it will lead the charge of a new mid-priced knife renaissance? Be a vanguard, of sorts, if you will?

I recommend purchasing the Kizer Vanguard Gemini from BladeHQ or Amazon. Please consider that purchasing anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

If you have been following knife trends at all, you will know there is big interest in both titanium framelock flippers and traditional folding knives. So it shouldn’t take a rocket scientist to come up with the idea of combining these two trends, but they have really been viewed as two mutually exclusive phenomena. That is of course, until now.

Enter the Boker Plus Urban Trapper. Designed by fellow Floridian and custom knife maker, Brad Zinker, the Urban Trapper is exactly what it sounds like: the melding of a traditional trapper pattern with modern features and materials. The end result, is everything you love about traditional folders (their light weight, and wickedly thin blades) combined with the bells and whistles of a titanium framelock flipper.

It sounds great, but given Boker‘s quality control issues some might pass this model over. That would be a mistake. This is arguable the best knife I have handled in 2015. No joke. Boker has had a spotty history with quality control, and their titanium framelocks have been notoriously bad, so I probably have my work cut out for me if I am to try and convince you that this is the best production knife I handled in 2015, but they absolutely slammed this one out of the park. Let me explain to you why.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Urban Trapper has an overall length of 7.75″, a 3.5″ blade, and the all titanium version (shown here) weighs a mere 1.78 ounces, is made in China, and currently retails for around $60. The knife is insanely light yet still packs a healthy 3.5″ blade. I am not one to bother with blade to handle ratios, but Brad used up every spare millimeter when cramming the blade into the handle. The end result is both thoughtful and elegant.

The Urban Trapper was designed to be an Every Day Carry (EDC) knife, and I have used mine in that capacity. Although the blade is on the long side, but it’s thin profile means I have not had any issues using the Urban Trapper in public. I think you could also argue this is a gentleman’s folder.

The blade of the Urban Trapper is an elongated clip point, featuring a lean clip with a thin swedge. It is definitely a modern take on a classic blade pattern, and isn’t your grandpa’s clip point. Most of the spine is taken up by the swedge, but the part that isn’t is capped (rounded). The blade has a high flat grind and precise tip. I have always found clip points to be utilitarian, and this version is no exception. The tip is excellent for detail work, and the thin grind slices like a traditional folder (meaning, it slices wonderfully).

An interesting detail on the knife is the satin finished blade. If you watch YouTube knife reviews of custom folders, you will invariably hear the reviewer go on about how the knife is “the best flipper I have ever handled” and/or gush over the “hand rub satin finish”. While I think both of those reviewer tropes are more than a little tired, I can’t deny that the blade is well done and the satin finish, running horizontally from ricasso to tip, was intended to mimic the hand rubbed finish of a custom offering. It’s a nice touch, especially at this price point.

Boker went with VG-10 steel for the blade, a middle of the road Japanese stainless. I don’t mind VG-10 on this knife given the price point. I have used my Urban Trapper quite a bit, and have had the chance to test it on a variety of materials. It’s great for breaking down boxes, and slices apples with ease. Speaking of slicing, the thin flat grind is a tremendous slicer, much like many of the traditional folders I have used like the Indian River Jack or Alox Cadet.

The UT also held up well as a utility knife. I have used the knife for several home improvement projects, cutting thick plastic and even wire in a pinch. I don’t recommend cutting wire with the Urban Trapper, but I didn’t have anything else on me at the time. The knife held up fine, although the edge definitely rolled. VG-10 will not hold an edge forever, but it’s an easy steel to sharpen. No issues with rust, and I routinely rinsed the knife out in the sink after using it.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

There are a surprising number of details to enjoy when examining the handle of the Urban Trapper. The handle is comprised of 2 pieces of titanium and a single stand off. All of the edges have been neatly rounded, and a series of holes have been drilled into the handle to provide visual interest and lighten the knife. The holes are countersunk and the edges have been given a mirror polished edge. Everything has been executed flawlessly. There is a nice decorative pivot, and the seat of the pocket clip is inlayed into the handle. The titanium is given a tumbled finish which hides wear well. For a simple slab built handle, Boker did a lot to bring Zinker’s custom design to life.

If naked titanium is not your thing, Boker is also offering the UT with a variety of handle covers including Cocobolo, G10, and carbon fiber. I haven’t checked these out yet and prefer this minimalist version.

The Urban Trapper is a thin and lightweight knife, but it’s not cramped for space. I am able to get a comfortable grip on it without any issues. That said, there is not much in the way of traction on the handle. The stonewashed finish offers a little feedback. There is no jimping. It would not be my go to knife for a 3 month expedition through the Amazon, but it’s fine for urban EDC. I would suggest using this knife the same way you would use a slip joint. That said, I have gotten a lot of work done with the UT and I can say with confidence that this knife is comfortable for normal use.

The Urban Trapper comes with a nice fold over deep carry titanium pocket clip. The handle has been milled so the clip slots in to it and is held in place with 2 flush mount screws. This is nice because there is nothing for your pocket to get caught on when you insert the knife into your pocket. The drawback is that the knife is set up for right side tip up carry only. Not a big deal for me, but worth mentioning.

The UT carries well. At under 2 ounces you quickly forget it’s in the pocket. The knife is wafer thin and the clip is very unobtrusive. This is a fantastic knife for my style of daily carry.

Deployment and Lockup

The flipper tab on the Urban Trapper may take some getting used to. It’s squarish and has jimping, and I find that the knife opens best when you “light switch” the flipper by resting your index finger on the corner of the flipper tab. Personally I never had any problems getting the knife open, and I am able to push button the flipper too, but in reading up a bit for the review I noticed some people complain about the flipper. It works fine for me. The detent is solid and the knife is on a bearing system. It flips well, and fires hard. The action is smooth to the point where I can shake the blade closed.

For lockup we have a simple titanium framelock. There is no steel insert. Just simple titanium on steel. My knife locks up early (around 20%) and is secure and without play. This is after opening the knife hundreds of times and beating on it in a series of little remodeling projects. I realize Boker does not have the best track record with their titanium framelocks, but this Urban Trapper is trouble free after a couple months of use. I plan on keeping the knife and will update the review if anything changes.

Blade centering on my knife is basically perfect. The pivot has loosened up a couple times, but a twist of my allen wrench brings things back to true.

Boker Urban Trapper – Final Thoughts

Although I think it was released in 2014, the Urban Trapper is on my short list for “Best Knife of 2015”. For $60 I consider it a production folder masterpiece, blending two of the current hottest trends in knives while coming in at the notoriously tough $50-75 price range. When I first got the Urban Trapper I immediately compared it with another favorite of mine: the CRKT Swindle. The knives share some similarities: they are slim, inexpensive, bearing equipped framelock flippers. The Urban Trapper sells for twice as much, but I think it’s twice as nice of a knife. It’s much lighter and the pocket clip is way better. Well worth the price premium in my book.

And let me attempt to put any quality control fears to rest – my Urban Trapper has been problem free, and that seems to be par for the course based on my research. The fit and finish is excellent. There is no blade play, lock rock, or anything like that. Say what you will about Chinese knives, but this one is dialed in. The Urban Trapper truly is a combination of the things I love most about traditional folders (their pocketability, people friendly profile, and thin blades) with all of the creature comforts we have come to know and love with framelock flippers (one hand opening, pocket clips, lightweight materials). For $60 it’s a no brainer.

The Urban Trapper comes with my highest endorsement. It easily makes its way onto my best EDC knives page. There are nicer more expensive knives out there, but the Urban Trapper is a perfect storm of price, workmanship, and performance. This is something everyone can appreciate. Buy it and enjoy it. You can thank me later.

I recommend purchasing the Boker Plus Urban Trapper at Amazon or BladeHQ. Please consider that buying anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

The SERE 2000 is one of the more iconic folding tactical knives of our time. The knife was originally designed in the 80s by Al Mar and Colonel Nick Rowe for the Army’s SERE (Survival, Evasion, Resistance, Escape) school. The fact that you can even still buy the knife is a testament to the efficacy of the design.

As an enthusiast of modern folding knives, I have had my eye on the SERE 2000 for some time. It’s one of those “cornerstone” tactical knives like the Paramilitary 2 and Benchmade 710 that I feel almost obligated to try (twist my arm).

So why the hell would you buy the miniature version? Good question. I guess if you want “tactical” but are forced to be a little more “practical” then the Mini SERE 2000 (or MS2K) could be the knife for you. This is taboo in some circles, kind of like buying a 4 door Porsche. But I’m a sucker for compromise, and I got a good deal on this MS2K, so that’s why the mini version is the subject of today’s review.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The MS2K has an overall length of 7″, a 3″ blade, and weighs 3.5 ounces. Compare that with the full size SERE 2000 with an overall length of 8.5″, a 3.6″ blade, and weighing in at 6 ounces. I have enjoyed the Mini SERE 2000 as an every day carry (EDC). Having never attended SERE school, I couldn’t really tell you the merits of this folder in a Survival, Evasion, Resistance, or even an Escape capacity. I helped a couple hot dogs escape from their package the other weekend with the MS2K, if that counts for anything.

The SERE 2000 has a modified drop point / spear point blade with a mid height flat grind and a large flat ground swedge. This is a classic Al Mar profile that has shown up in a variety of their offerings, including the Eagle and Falcon lines. This simple blade shape is a good all round performer, combining excellent piercing capability with strength and slicing performance. Al Mar offers the blade with a satin finish or a black ceramic coating. I really like my satin finished blade – it has been beautifully done with crisp grind lines, an even finish, and a neatly applied edge.

The SERE 2000 comes in VG-10 blade steel. This was probably a great choice when the knife came out 20 years ago, but is only OK by today’s standards. These days there are a number of higher end steels, especially at the price point the MS2 is offered at. The SERE 2000 is made for Al Mar by Moki Knives in Japan, and VG-10 is made in Japan, so that makes sense.

Practically speaking, the knife is capable of getting screaming sharp and it slices well. The tip strikes a nice balance between strength and precision. VG10 is very easy to maintain. I tend to strop my MS2K and I occasionally run it on the fine stones of my Sharpmaker. I have had zero issues with corrosion or chipping. However, I would not complain if they upgraded the steel to something more wear resistant, especially given the price of this knife.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

The SERE 2000 features a no-nonsense handle design with black, O.D. green, or digi-cam G10 handle scales over full steel liners with a combination of stand offs and a small stainless steel backspacer. The handle is immaculate. The finish work is seamless, replete with satin hardware and lightly chamfered edges. I can’t feel a single crack or seam as I run my thumb over the backspacer that bridges the G10 scales and steel liners – a hallmark of excellent finish work and a close attention to detail. Although the liners are not skeletonized, the knife feels light and reasonable for its size. All told I am very impressed with the build quality of the handle.

The MS2K was originally designed to be a much larger knife. I am guessing the mini version was an afterthought to appeal to a broader audience, and it is simply a scaled down version of the full size SERE 2000. I am pleased to report that the ergonomics of this design translate well to a smaller knife – another testament to the universal appeal of the original SERE 2000.

There is just enough room for me to get a full four finger grip, and my thumb perches nicely on the spine of the blade. This is a relatively thick knife, and it fills the hand. The chamfered edges are extremely comfortable and melt into your skin. The flared handle contributes to the MS2K’s signature profile, and also helps ensure your fingers don’t slide around on the knife. There is no jimping, but the thumb perches nicely on the spine of the blade. The knife is also comfortable in a reverse grip. I found this to be a good working knife, and had no real issues with hot spots even after a couple intense encounters with rope and cardboard. This handle ascribes to a KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid) mantra, and the end user is all the better for it.

The deep carry pocket clip has been given a glossy black coating. It allows for ambidextrous tip up carry. I like this relatively discrete clip design. It is a really tight clip and butts up to high traction G10. There is definite potential for pocket tearing, so keep that in mind. The clip provides very good retention and generally functions well. Being a knife with a relatively thick blade, full steel liners, and thick G10 handle scales, it’s a little thick in the pocket. Still, the knife carried fine for me, and I didn’t really notice it.

Deployment and Lockup

The Mini SERE 2000 has ambidextrous thumb studs, teflon washers, and a liner lock. The thumb studs are accessible on both sides of the handle, but the knife is designed primarily for right hand users. The teflon washers make it impossible to flick open, but it’s a very smooth knife.

The liner lock engages early and securely. Like my Sage 1, the MS2K makes a distinctive “chirp” as you snap the blade into the open position. There is no blade play in any direction at all. Blade centering isn’t perfect on my knife, but it’s close.

I also like how the tang of the blade has been rounded off at the spine, so the knife looks just as good closed as it does open. It’s this attention to detail in the design and execution of the knife that gets me excited about the SERE 2000.

Mini SERE 2000 Final Thoughts

When it comes down to my final thoughts on the Mini SERE 2000, I am a little conflicted. On one hand it’s a beautiful knife. It’s well made, balanced, with decent materials, and it’s very practical. It is an excellent knife. But on the other hand we are talking about a Japanese linerlock with G10 handles and VG10 steel with a retail price at $200+. For $150 I would recommend it without reservation. But at an actual retail of $200+ it is much harder to give this the fullest of endorsements. This isn’t because the SERE 2000 is a bad knife – it isn’t. It’s a wonderful knife. My problem with it is that I think that there is more out there at a better value.

Case in point, the Spyderco Sage 1 is another linerlock folder with 3″ blade, similar fit and finish (maybe not quite as good, but close), and better blade steel. The Spyderco Caly 3 is a beautiful Japanese folder with laminated ZDP 189 blade, real carbon fiber handle scales, and equally impressive fit and finish to the MS2k. At nearly twice the price of both the Sage 1 and Caly 3, I have a real hard time recommending the SERE 2000 carte blanche. It’s still a beautiful knife, just spendy.

It is also worth noting that the full size SERE 2000 is only a couple dollars more than the Mini. It might also be easier to justify spending the money on the full size version, especially if you are going to rely on it every day as a member of the military or law enforcement.

If you can get past the price the SERE 2000 is worth acquiring. It’s a timeless folding tactical knife, and fans of the genre owe it to themselves to at least check it out eventually.

I recommend purchasing the Mini SERE 2000 at Amazon and BladeHQ. Please consider that purchasing anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Last Updated: September 25, 2017
I am not sure if I have the patience for a compact survival knife. I tend to favor a brute force approach when working in the outdoors. Maybe I am lazy, or stupid… or lazy and stupid… but when in doubt I often find myself reaching for the biggest, heaviest tool I can find.

That’s probably why I get such a kick out of knives like the Junglas and Ontario Machete. I get that heavy piece of steel in my hand and say, “Hey, I can probably chop down a tree with this thing,” and then proceed to blast whatever lies in my path. Hours later my shoulder is aching, my shirt is soaked through with sweat, but I still have a smile on my face. What I lack in technique I try to make up for with pure stubbornness. I have the same problem when I go fishing.

So I may not be the best guy to review the Fallkniven F1. It’s an elegant smallish fixed blade designed in Sweden, and made in Japan. The Scandinavians are folks who really seem to appreciate the great outdoors. The Japanese are extremely passionate about pretty much everything, and have an extraordinarily rich culture of blademaking. Both have a zen like approach to nature (and life) that I could never match.

I have previously reviewed the Fallkniven A1, and offhand the A1 seems to be more my speed. It’s not a big chopper, but it’s a meaty knife and a solid performer. The F1 is much smaller, and working with it has forced me to slow down for a moment, explore the possibility that less is more, and, god forbid, try to cultivate some technique when using my tools.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The F1 has an overall length of 8.3″, a 3.8″ blade, weighs 6 ounces, and is made in Japan. Fallkniven calls the F1 the Pilot’s Survival Knife, and this is the standard issue fixed blade for the Swedish Air Force. So this is a knife that presumably needs to be small enough to fit on your person while in the confines of a military aircraft, yet be effective enough for soldiers to rely on worst case scenarios like a downed airplane deep behind enemy lines. For us civilians this could be a camp knife, or a knife for hiking, hunting, and exploring the great outdoors.

Here is a shot of the F1 next to the S1 and A1. The F1 is of course on the bottom:

The blade of the F1 is a simple drop point with a full convex grind. The blade shape is simple. There are no organic shapes, no swedges, no jimping. Just traditional drop point awesomeness with your choice of a bright satin finish or a black CeraKoted blade. This is about as simple as it gets.

Blade thickness is a generous 4.5mm, and this combined with the full convex grind allows the F1 in some ways to function like a larger knife. I adore the convex grind. It can be used to pop open small pieces of wood, yet it cuts deeply into material and can be used for more detail oriented tasks.

The F1 features a laminated VG10 blade. Twin slabs of 420J stainless flank a VG10 core (also stainless). 420J is tougher than VG10, whereas VG10 is harder and better for edge retention than 420J. The idea is to combine 420J with the VG10 to make an overall tougher knife with the edge holding qualities of VG10.

Using VG10 for a survival knife is a hotly contested issue. I have found that VG10 is fine for little EDC knives like the Dragonfly, but if you troll the forums there is great debate as to whether it is an appropriate choice for an outdoor fixed blade.

Personally, I think that this is an instance where geometry makes the biggest difference. The convex edge gives the VG10 greater resilience and durability, and belies it softer qualities. Still, you need to be careful with this knife. If you are batoning with it, make sure you aren’t batoning on top of sand or a rock pile or something. Put a piece of wood underneath whatever you are trying to cut and understand that if the edge comes in contact with a rock, the edge will likely lose. With this strategy in mind, I have not had issues with the edge on any of my Fallkniven knives chipping out.

As far as edge retention is concerned, I have found that the VG10 blade holds up well to wood and meat. It doesn’t last as long when cutting fibrous materials like cardboard. Sharpening is very easy. I mostly strop the knife, and occasionally freehand the edge with a fine Sharpmaker stone. I know that the sandpaper and mousepad method is a popular way to sharpen a convex edge.

Fallkniven also offers this knife in their “3G” configuration. 3G is another 420J laminate with a core of Super Gold Powder Steel (SGPS), a high end powdered steel by Japanese manufacturer Takefu. They heat treat the SGPS to 62HRc. By way of contrast the VG10 version is taken up to 59HRc. The main benefit to the 3G version is it gives you greater edge retention. Apparently durability is about the same although I have no hands on experience with this version of the knife. The downside is that the 3G version retails for $100 more than the F1.

Personally, it was not worth the extra money to spring for the 3G version. If I used this knife every day I could see where the upgraded version has its appeal. I look forward to checking out the SGPS in depth when I eventually pick up a Fallkniven U2.

Handle and Ergonomics

The F1’s handle is made of Thermorun, a high density plastic. Thermorun has a slightly rubbery feel to it, and the handle all but completely encases the tang of the knife. About an 1/8″ of tang sticks out from the pommel, which can be used for hammering/crushing things. There is also a large sleeved lanyard hole that easily accommodates 550 cord. The handle has a strong diamond texture on the sides, while the top an bottom of the handle are left untextured.

All said construction of the handle is very simple and solid. I can’t detect any gaps in between where the handle and blade join together. There has been no cracking splitting has occurred after months of ownership and use. Like the rest of the knife, the handle has a very basic and utilitarian feel to it.

The F1 is a comfortable knife to use. The diamond texture helps lock your hand in place, and the broad flat spine is perfect for your thumb. The handle shape is simple and it will accommodate all sorts of hand sizes. There is no jimping. I mostly tested the F1 on wood, cardboard, and by trying it out with some light food prep. At all times I felt comfortable and in control of the knife. There were no issues with hot spots.

Sheath

The F1 comes with a plastic or leather sheath. Shown here is the leather sheath, although the plastic sheath is essentially a scaled down version of the sheath on my A1, so you can check that review out to get a little more information on Fallkniven’s zytel sheathes. The leather used for this sheath is thick, sturdy, and exudes quality. It’s a high quality no-nonsense sheath that has been finished simply. The belt loop is non-removable and the blade is held in place with a fold over button clasp. The blade doesn’t rattle or move around at all inside the leather sheath. It’s very secure and a nice option for people who prefer a more traditional belt sheath.

When I reviewed the A1 2 years ago I ragged on the plastic sheath a little. I felt like the sheath was a little flimsy, especially when paired with such a sturdy knife. The blade also rattled around in the sheath, which some people use as a metric to for sheath quality (this is kind of stupid when you think about it, although I’m guilty of pointing out whether the blade rattles in the sheath).

Opinions are subject to change and mine has evolved over the years. While Fallkniven’s plastic sheathes are lightweight, it doesn’t mean they aren’t of high quality. The plastic on my A1’s sheath has held up tremendously well and is very light and practical. Apparently it is a good choice for cold climates and will perform better than a leather or Kydex sheath in sub-freezing temperatures. Since I live in Florida I have been unable to really test that out.

Fallkniven F1 Review – Final Thoughts

You don’t have to be a level 10 bushcrafter to realize that this is a very nice knife. The F1 strikes a good balance of being lightweight and manageable yet high performance. The convex blade works miracles with wood, and the handle does a great job of not getting in the way. To me that is what makes an ideal working knife. It should not be a chore or an obstacle in your path – you should be able to actually use the thing. The F1, much like the A1 when I reviewed it, seems to invite use.

I may still favor the bigger knives for my outdoor exploits, but The F1 is an all around performer and a pleasure to work with. This is an excellent knife for camping or survival and has rightfully earned its reputation as a no-nonsense tool. It has also earned a spot on my recommended survival knives page, which is about as high of an endorsement as I can offer.

I recommend purchasing the Fallkniven F1 at Amazon and BladeHQ. Please consider that purchasing anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.