(all information below is a recommendation from Race-1 not necessarily from GM)

Race-1

First and foremost—if you are not storing your engine/car in a garage that is heated 100% of the time you need to get all the water out or install antifreeze in the system NOW.
Draining the block can be done through the drain plugs located at the bottom center of the block (just above the oil pan).

We recommend putting at least a gallon of antifreeze in anyway. **IMPORTANT: Antifreeze is NOT recommended to race with but insures against freeze failures and adds some rust inhibitors.

If your plan is to drain the system dry for the winter then do that after the fogging process **IMPORTANT: If you are going to do an antifreeze mix, do it BEFORE fogging.

Fogging Process

Disconnect the feed line to your fuel pump and run a hose from the pickup side of the pump into a fuel jug with quality gasoline (AV gas or 93 octane pump gas). It is also recommended to mix Marvel Mystery Oil into this gas or 2 stroke oil. (Use the HIGH side of recommended amount by manufacturer.) Note: if you have a bypass regulator system you must also route the return line into your winterizing fuel jug.

Place the fuel jug into a safe location away from headers. Then warm the engine up to operating temperature.

After the engine is warm begin drizzling straight 30 wt. motor oil down the carburetor at a high idle (1300 to 1500). (Store bought fogging oil may also be used.)

Once the garage becomes filled with smoke increase the stream of oil, and choke the engine out with oil.

Next, take several oil soaked rags and stuff them into the ends of the headers.

If you want added security remove the rocker arms so all the valve springs will be relaxed.

If you used an oil-mixed gasoline for your fogging process and made sure the secondary side of the carburetor was also flowing fuel during fogging, then there is no need to do any further carburetor bedding—but some like to remove the carburetor drain and fill with WD-40.

When waking the engine, remove the spark plugs and spin the engine over a time or two to release any excess oil; then prime the oil system, and reinstall the same plugs to initially fire the engine.
You will need to change the spark plugs after you warm it up and clear the winter oil away.

This process does not take long and will help to insure your engine will wake up the same way it went to bed!

Do you lack confidence to do this yourself? We can help. We will do it for you!

Off-season Service

602s: $850

604s: $950

Leak test engine

Service valve train

DYNO test

Fog for winter storage

ALSO, includes:

Laboratory oil analysis

Valve spring kit

Valve spring shims

Spark plugs!

Any other questions or concerns? Feel free to call or email Brad TODAY!

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