Marsannay: Burg’s Bargain Bin

I am a collector and regular drinker of red Burgundy but I review the wines infrequently. Premier Cru and
Grand Cru wines are just too precious to simply open and taste so I drink them only in the context of a fine
meal or with special friends. In addition, there are a number of reviewers more adept than I with a highly
respected voice about Burgundy such as Allen Meadows of the Burghound.

In the last decade, and particularly since 2005, the price of fine Burgundy has skyrocketed. This trend has
been fueled by a number of factors including the interest among deep-pocketed collectors in Burgundy (there
are almost 400 billionaires in the United States), the extremely limited quantities of the top wines, the weak
American dollar, and the names such as DRC, Dujac, Leroy and Rousseau taking on a luxury goods mantra.
Red Burgundy has become the Cartier of the wine world and consumers have equated quality with desirability
rather than the opposite. New York Wine importer, Neal Rosenthal, laments the current market for Burgundy.
“The real tragedy of Burgundy was that a few prima donna domaines, most famously Romanee-Conti, had
become so outlandishly expensive that the prices had become skewed. There was great irony there because
in the past Burgundies were the best value wines on the market. They had more character, more integrity, and
more flesh. There were $20 Burgs that iced everything else at the same price. They were the most underrated
cheap wines on planet earth.”

Burgundy is a vinous minefield with many wines simply not that great relative to price. The interested wine
drinker must devote serious study to Burgundy, learning about vintages, producers, villages, and vineyards.
The challenge then becomes locating the wine you want at a price you want to pay. The often-repeated joke
applies here: “Fine Burgundy is wonderful if you can get someone else to pay for it.” How can the ordinary wine
drinker find pleasure in the daunting world of red Burgundy?

One approach is to look for the minor bottlings of the top wineries. Another tack is to seek out the best growers
in the lesser known, less prestigious villages such as Marsannay-la-Côte. Marsannay crowns the Côte de
Nuits, sitting above Gevrey Chambertain and just above Fixin, just south of Dijon. It has become known as the
“Gateway to Burgundy.” Marsannay constantly struggles against urbanization from the populace in Dijon.
Signs proclaiming, “Trop c’est Trop!” meaning, “Too Much is Too Much!” can be seen dotting the village.

Once designated as Bourgogne, Marsannay was elevated in 1987 to its current village appellation contrôlée
(AC) classification. It has struggled to escape its tawdry image dating to the first part of the nineteenth century
when it supplied oceans of cheap Gamay Noir and rosé to the residents of nearby Dijon. Marsannay has 480
acres of vineyards, no premier crus, with several notable lieux-dits (named vineyards or climats) such as Les
Champs-Perdix, Les Champs-Salomon, Le Clos de Jeu, Le Clos-du-Roi, Les Longeroies, Saint-Jacques, and
Les Vaudenelles. There is a high percentage of old vines and many young, dedicated winegrowers, resulting in
many quality value-priced wines. The terroir is not as highly regarded as say Gevrey Chambertain, but if you
find a wine from a top grower in a good vintage, the result can be immensely satisfying.

The commune is entitled to produce Marsannay rouge, Marsannay blanc, which usually made in a lean,
Chablis style, and Marsannay rosé from Pinot Noir. Although northern in location, Marsannay is a mediumbodied
sinewy wine. It is not as gutsy as it’s neighbor Fixin and does not display the finesse of Gevrey
Chambertain. The wines are made for early enjoyment, although they can perform beautifully for at least five
years after release.

Bruno Clair is the most well-known Marsannay producer, but Domaine Sylvain Pataille, established in 2001,
has brought glitter to the village. Pataille was a vineyard consultant for Roumier and Groffier before settling in
his hometown. He is fanatical about meticulous farming, committed to biodynamic farming and even planted
one of his vineyards from seed instead of cuttings or clones. Unfortunately, the one bottle of 2005 Sylvian
Pataille Marsannay Clos du Roy I purchased was badly corked and I could not review it.

I recently sampled a number of Marsannay wines from the outstanding 2005 and respectable 2006 and 2007
vintages. The wines of Bruno Clair clearly stood above the crowd. The lineup of wines was solid, although not
exceptional, but delivered the Burgundy experience at an affordable price. The 2005 vintage wines were clearly
superior. In some cases, the Marsannay wines offered more interest and personality that many California Pinot
Noirs in the same $20 to $25 price range. However, some wines had foreboding tannins and acidity which
needed food to mitigate. The wines do not provide the mid-palate fruit intensity and persistence on the finish of
higher cru Burgundy wines. All things considered, the wines deserve a look if you are seeking Burgundy at a
sensible price. The name, Marsannay, is easy to pronounce, the wines are widely available, and the tariff is
easy to swallow. Prices range from $15 to $58 (for Denis Mortet Marsannay Les Longeroies).

12.5% alc., $22.
Imported by Vineyard Brands, Inc., Birmingham, AL.
·Moderately
deep rose color. Bright strawberries and peaches compose a vivid
nose followed on the palate with richly flavored strawberries and a
sidecar of cherry cola and orange peel. Dry and pleasing with some
persistence on the finish. Impressive.Score:87

12.5% alc., $24. Imported by Fruit of the Vine Inc.,
NY, NY.
·Subdued notes of cherries, strawberries and wildflower on the nose. Earthy and rustic flavors of berry
preserves with noticeable oak in the background. Slightly sweet with a strong grip of acidity.Score:85

13.0%
alc., $28.50. A Peter Weygandt Selection.
·Slightly confected aroma of warm
berry tart. Tart flavors of dry cherries and cranberries with an underpinning of
grapefruit. On the light side with plenty of acidity, drying tannins, and sweet
oak in the background.Score:86

13.0% alc., $30.
Imported by Latitude Wines, Inc., Danville, CA.
·A fruity nose composed of
black cherries, raspberries and strawberries. Moderate in weight with loamy
dark red fruits that are smooth and polished in the mouth. The tannins are
reigned in and there is admirable fruity persistence on the finish. Nicely
composed and well worth the tab.Score:87

13.0%
alc., $24. Imported by Vineyard Brands Inc., Birmingham, AL. A
David Hass Selection.
·Lovely cherry and berry fruit that is pure and
tasty with an appealing restraint. The acidity is subdued, the texture
is velvety, the tannins are in harmony and the whole package is
thoroughly charming. Highly recommended.Score:89

12.5% alc., $25.
Imported by Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA, a Becky Wasserman
and Burgundy Wine Company Selection.
·Delicate and charming
featuring raspberry, dried cherry and pomegranate fruits that slip
lightly over the palate. Very smooth and delicate: a Grace Kelly of a
wine. The most approachable wine of the several in this lineup and still
drinking fine the next day from a previously opened re-corked bottle. I like it
for what it is.Score:87

12.5% alc., $30. Imported by Kysek Pere et Fils, Ltd.,
Winchester, VA.
·Very slightly corked. Aromas of berries and green garden lead to a rich and delicious core of
raspberries. Great purity of fruit with tannins, acids and oak working together harmoniously. Impressive
material and balance in spite of the very slight cork taint.