Brake booster failure/CX-5 loaner

My 2012 CX-9 AWD GT (51K miles) started to show sign of brake booster failure. I would get a hard pedal intermittently with very little brake force (DW almost almost rear ended someone). After some research, I found Mazda SSP93 and did the diagnostic test myself and confirmed a bad brake booster. I needed to do the lower control arm recall anyway so I brought it to the dealer. After 3 days in the shop, I have new LCAs and brake booster and not a cent less in my pocket!

As a bonus, the dealer's loaner car turned out to be a 2016 CX-5 AWD sport. I have been itching to drive a CX-5 and this worked out really well. I like the handling of the CX5. It corners without a lot of body roll and I think it hold true to the zoom zoom nature of the brand (much more than my CX9). In fact, i think the ride is a tad harsh (for an SUV) and I say this given my other car is an '06 Mitsubishi Evo9. The ride quality of the CX5 surprised me quite a bit. The other thing that stood out was hearing the groan of the engine during acceleration and low speed lugging. I had place the CX5 as one of the options come the day I ditch the Evo9. Now I'm not so sure anymore. When are they gonna make an AWD Mazda6?

For the benefit of others who may have the brake booster issue here's my experience. The vehicle is a 2012 GT with just about 60,000 miles. I did notice that the brake pedal feel was not right for a while but continued to monitor it for about 6 months. Over that time it became more unpredictable as to how it became way too firm and difficult to press at times. Mostly the issue was a parking lot speeds when re-started after being parked for a short time. At the end pressing very firmly on the pedal caused a very audible whistle from the booster.

Took it to the local dealer yesterday and was pleasantly surprised with the loaner, a fully loaded CX5. Drove great and it's an impressive vehicle. Tech found that my issue matched the symptoms for the SSP93 bulletin and the booster and stop light switch were replaced at no cost. They do say it has to match the symptoms in the letter to qualify for the repair to be done under the extended warranty. If you are bringing in your vehicle for this be very clear to state the conditions that match the letter. The fact that mine was whistling so loudly made the diagnosis pretty simple I suspect.

My 2012 CX-9 AWD GT (51K miles) started to show sign of brake booster failure. I would get a hard pedal intermittently with very little brake force (DW almost almost rear ended someone). After some research, I found Mazda SSP93 and did the diagnostic test myself and confirmed a bad brake booster. I needed to do the lower control arm recall anyway so I brought it to the dealer. After 3 days in the shop, I have new LCAs and brake booster and not a cent less in my pocket!

As a bonus, the dealer's loaner car turned out to be a 2016 CX-5 AWD sport. I have been itching to drive a CX-5 and this worked out really well. I like the handling of the CX5. It corners without a lot of body roll and I think it hold true to the zoom zoom nature of the brand (much more than my CX9). In fact, i think the ride is a tad harsh (for an SUV) and I say this given my other car is an '06 Mitsubishi Evo9. The ride quality of the CX5 surprised me quite a bit. The other thing that stood out was hearing the groan of the engine during acceleration and low speed lugging. I had place the CX5 as one of the options come the day I ditch the Evo9. Now I'm not so sure anymore. When are they gonna make an AWD Mazda6?

Anyhow, just sharing my experiences.

2016 CX-5? That's the last generation model. A design from 2012. The 2017 is a whole different animal, much more refined and quiet. If you were considering the CX-5, you need to drive the current model which is rated the best compact next to the CR-V by most publications.

2016 CX-5? That's the last generation model. A design from 2012. The 2017 is a whole different animal, much more refined and quiet. If you were considering the CX-5, you need to drive the current model which is rated the best compact next to the CR-V by most publications.

Totally agree after driving the 2018 version, exceptionally well put together and the features are extensive given the price point.

My car is out of warranty by date, but mileage is well under the 90,000 miles of the warranty. (73,641 at time of repair). When pressing on brake pedal, the pedal was so stiff that it didn’t move it all. Quite a scary feeling when your brakes don’t work. I pressed again and they worked. A few days later, I pressed on the brake to stop at a red light. While still pressing on the brake pedal at the light, my foot began to go all the way to the floor. Quite alarming. I took my car to the dealer and was told that I needed a new Brake Booster and Brake Switch. I did a quick google search and found that “Brake Booster Failure” is a known problem for my car, and others. Mazda attributed the problem to a defect in the mold used when forming the diaphragm and/or continuous operation in environments in high ambient temperatures. Knowing this brake problem exists in my car and others, a recall was not issued because it was determined this was a “progressive failure that developed slowly over time”. Are you kidding? My brakes are defective but because the issue probably won’t be discovered until AFTER my warranty expires, let’s not issue a recall notice. Or for that matter, let’s not even send a letter to maybe let the driver know this is a possibility. After speaking with the service department at the Mazda dealership, I contacted Mazda USA (800-222-5500 option 6) and spoke to a representative. I expressed my concern for the fact this was a known issue and he repeated (several times) this was not a recall. Once we got passed that, he put me on hold for several minutes. When he returned he said they would pay all but $161.64 of the $933.05 repair bill. While I was extremely surprised and very pleased, it doesn’t make it OK that Mazda knew my brakes would fail and chose not to recall these cars. Moral of the story -- if your car has this issue, before you have the repair performed, and preferably while your car is at the dealer service department, contact Mazda USA. They should pay for most of this expensive repair, which they were fully aware would be necessary.

Or better yet why not complain and tell the people at NHTSA about your experience. A lot of owners probably don't have the time to go through all this and also not all dealers are this cooperative. With a recall you will also get back the 161 dollars that you paid for a repair that should really be a safety recall.

I was just wondering. Is there a whistling noise when you first start the car and put it in reverse or drive and then the noise goes away and doesn't come back the rest of the time that you are using the brakes?

I was just wondering. Is there a whistling noise when you first start the car and put it in reverse or drive and then the noise goes away and doesn't come back the rest of the time that you are using the brakes?

In my case, with the failed booster, the whistle could be produced on demand by FIRMLY pushing and holding the brake pedal. Basically apply the pressure just past the normal stop point and the high pitched whistle was there every time without fail.

Thank you for the reply. So i am figuring since i can get this brake booster for under 100 bucks delivered to my door from an online mazda dealer i would purchase it and have an indy install it and i would probably pay a total of 500 or less or are there any other suggestions. All info would be greatly appreciated it. Thanks again. Oh and my mazda is 11 years old with almost 110k miles.