After yesterday’s tradfest, we return to lovely sport bolts at the BMC owned Horseshoe Quarry (Stoney Middleton). I’d rather take 99 falls on a decent bolt than one on a nut. We dip our big toe in the water to test the temperature and Sag Ponir, 4+ is hot and overhanging. Though even Andy with his recently broken shoulder gets up it. Matthew has a look at Pale Rider, 6a starred in the book, and it is nice. It’s just on the corner at the start of the main wall. The Big Fat Texan On The Corner, 6a looks nice with two great side pulls, well chalked up, so evidently popular. It’s a beauty!

I have to say though, it’s limestone, but it’s quarried limestone. Some holds and formations that you just don’t get on natural stuff. Odd angles, slopes, it’s crumbly and sometimes loose, but it isn’t bad by any stretch. Anyway, after the tubby yank we send A Right Earful, 6a. Easy and solid climbing with the crux just under the anchor. Jeff Garrett, 6a+ (actually 6a in our guide, and 6b in the Rockfax Peak Limestone guide) was dripping with glue to hold the bugger together – avoid this one.

Mat fancies Rage, 6b and makes it up to the roof problem. One long reachy move and the crux is below you, but the grade feels conservative (for all the climbs). Better luck on toprope. With leaden arms, some of us are getting tired, but I jump on a pair of onsights: Dalken Shield, 6b and Hardcore, You Know the Score, 6b making me sweat for them. Andy hits the road, Bomber didn’t even don his harness but went shooting, and soon after Mat & I pack up shag tired. An excellent weekend.