I am not sure what you are asking about stream, or steam. What do you want to know? As far as temperatures, the actual is not so important as is your knowledge and consistency. The temperature is greatly affected by proximity to the elements. There is probably a strip between the elements front, top and back that would give similar results. What you do get from the theromometer is a way to use the steam switch to raise or lower the temperature during brew or steaming by coordinating ue of the steam switch, or by timing off of the lights showing the elements on and off.

I would not leave it on for long unattended. You can get a drip from the wand and lose water slowly. With elements outside the tank, they are not dependant on the water to cool, but I would not leave it on overnight. Timer for 15 amps ok.

Is the epoxy also for heat transfer, or just high temperature. If something similar to Arctic Silver, it is for high temperature and thermal conductivity. Fine if not, as you do not need the precision, but it could explain slightly low temperatures vs what you have seen with others.

A PID can help steam as it replaces the function of the OEM steam stat. That stat has a wide deadband or hystersis, as does the brewstat. The PID can be set at a set point with little deadband or hystersis. With OEM you can be trying to steam and have the stat reach temperature and click off and then you are cooling through the deadband until it clicks back on.

I have looked at PID kits but need to decide if I need steam help too and some have preinfusing help? Are these features worth the extra cash? I would also consider whipping something up myself. So you think the PID is worthwhile with the small boiler over what I have now ?

I think the PID is a great addition to SBDU machines. On the Classic I use PID functions, alarm for steam, and second alarm to add heat with brew. I did not go for preinfusion after reading the forums. On the Gaggia with 3 way, when you infuse and then rest, the 3 way works and you can break up a moistened puck.

The SYL-1512A is the standard PID and I prefer the SYL-2362A with the second alarm function. Not sure if you read the thread

I am using PID for idle/brew temperature, one alarm for the steam temperature, and the other alarm to add heat during brew. The added function gives faster temperature recovery for a second brew, and will add enough heat to stabilize intrashot temperature.

If you can solder, then you can do your own wiring, if not, then the kit. I am happy to help. You will need a PID controller, 25 amp SSR, and a suitable sensor. I recommend the Gaggia RTD by Auber. You save most of the money by making up the wires.

Is that along the lines of what you prefer? I didn't see the 2362A anymore and just the 2362B on that webpage.

I can solder quite well but will other tools be needed, assuming I get that PID controller? For what the trouble is worth, would you just recommend to get a kit? Just based on a quick look at the kits at Auber, I don't see much mention of the 2362B and based on your description on the alarms it looks like something worth doing.

I already asked about tools that will be needed, but could you please help me with a shopping list? Im looking at the image that you posted at the end and it has text descriptions that will help, is this every necessary item (besides PID controller and SSR)? Do you have approximate length of the wires?

thanks for your help! I know it's not the first time you've assisted me and it's appreciated.

Either will work, but you would need a 12v DC source for the controller if you go that route. You might also use the source for other DC voltage as you may have noted in the long thread, but I think that will complicate things.

I will post how to info and supplies on my previous thread as it is already has a lot of reference material. Keeps a lot in one place and there is another member currently interested.

A PID can help steam as it replaces the function of the OEM steam stat. That stat has a wide deadband or hystersis, as does the brewstat. The PID can be set at a set point with little deadband or hystersis. With OEM you can be trying to steam and have the stat reach temperature and click off and then you are cooling through the deadband until it clicks back on.

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