The Temporary Vegetarian

By ELAINE LOUIE

Published: August 26, 2009

JEAN ANDERSON knows her corn pudding. She was born in Raleigh, N.C., and has spent 40 years exploring the foods of the South. She is the author or co-author of 29 cookbooks, including ''A Love Affair with Southern Cooking,'' which won the James Beard Foundation's award for Best Americana cookbook in 2008.

This corn pudding recipe was given to her in the 1980s by James G. Harrison of Coggins Point Farm on the James River, halfway between Richmond and Williamsburg, Va. The Harrisons ''go way, way, way back,'' Ms. Anderson said, ''and I know this is a recipe that has been handed down pre-Civil War.''

Mr. Harrison told her, ''People try to make a dessert of corn pudding,'' but not the Harrisons. They never put sugar in the pudding, and made it only during corn season, when fresh corn is at its sweetest.

The pudding is like a custard, studded with fresh tender kernels. Ms. Anderson, who lives in Chapel Hill, N.C., makes it occasionally for dinner parties, but said, ''If I had my druthers, I'd make it once a week.''

A perfect accompaniment is salad and biscuits served the true Southern way, with no honey.

Recipe: James River Corn Pudding Adapted from

Adapted from ''A Love Affair with Southern Cooking'' by Jean Anderson

Time: About 50 to 60 minutes

2 tablespoons butter, more for buttering casserole

2 large eggs, beaten until frothy

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups milk

2 cups fresh whole-kernel corn (4 small to medium ears)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 1 1/2 quart casserole and set aside. Place a kettle of water over high heat to bring to a boil. Place beaten eggs in a bowl and set aside.

3. Pour corn mixture into casserole, and set in a shallow baking pan. Pour boiling water into pan to come halfway up sides of casserole. Bake until set like custard, 25 to 40 minutes depending on shape and depth of casserole. Cool for 10 minutes, then serve.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Recipe: James River Corn Pudding Adapted from

Adapted from ''A Love Affair with Southern Cooking'' by Jean Anderson

Time: About 50 to 60 minutes

2 tablespoons butter, more for buttering casserole

2 large eggs, beaten until frothy

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups milk

2 cups fresh whole-kernel corn (4 small to medium ears)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 1 1/2 quart casserole and set aside. Place a kettle of water over high heat to bring to a boil. Place beaten eggs in a bowl and set aside.

3. Pour corn mixture into casserole, and set in a shallow baking pan. Pour boiling water into pan to come halfway up sides of casserole. Bake until set like custard, 25 to 40 minutes depending on shape and depth of casserole. Cool for 10 minutes, then serve.