Pork Bred To Be Leaner, More Tender Than 20 Years Ago

August 5, 1987|By MERLE ELLIS

Today`s pork is a far cry from, and yet in certain ways somewhat similar to, those first swine Columbus brought to the New World in 1493. Those animals were razor-backed with narrow bodies, extended snouts and long-boned legs, unlike pigs as we know them, with their short snouts, rounded bodies and meaty hams. But very much like their European ancestors, which early on became a staple of the American diet, today`s hogs are lean. Not as mean as those razorbacks that run wild in the woods, but very near as lean.

Until recently, we bred pigs to be fat in this country. We wanted them fat. We needed them fat. Pork fat -- lard -- was what we cooked with. We fried chicken in it and potatoes. We used it to make pie crusts (I still do). Our pioneer forefathers packed bacon and sausage in lard to preserve them for the long trek ``westward-ho-the-w agons.`` We needed pork fat. Not too many generations ago, hogs were raised as much for the lard they provided as for the meat. Things are different now. Today, hogs are scientifically bred and fed specifically for the meat they provide -- and that meat contains 22 percent more protein and 57 percent less fat than the pork of 20 years ago.

Cooking today`s pork is a far cry from cooking yesterday`s, too. The pork you buy now comes to market younger and therefore far more tender than it did back when. It does not require, indeed, cannot tolerate, the kind of treatment we gave the fat pigs we used to have. To cook today`s pork to the 185 degrees of doneness that was recommended in most cookbooks of a generation ago would be akin to cremation. An internal temperature of 155 or 160 will produce more tender juicy results.

We now have cuts of pork that can be cooked in minutes -- in no more time than it takes to saute a veal cutlet or a chicken breast and in less time than it takes to cook a steak. Pork tenderloin is one.

Pork tenderloin used to be hard to find back in the days when hogs were fat and most cuts of pork came to market with the bone in it. Today, however, pork is more and more coming to market in boneless cuts, vacuum-packaged in ``case ready`` packages. Pork tenderloins come two to a package, each tenderloin weighing about a pound or a pound and a half. They are not the least expensive cut of pork, but they are far and away the most tender, quick- cooking. From today`s pigs, they are about as lean as the ones from a skinny long-nosed old razorback. Here are recipes specifically concocted to make lean pork taste its best.

Pound the pork slices lightly with a flat mallet. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan. When it is hot, add the pork. Cook for 2 minutes on each side. Transfer the pork slices to a serving plate and keep them warm.

Add the sliced red peppers to the pan and saute for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the cream and cook for 1 minute. Correct the seasonings, if necessary, and pour the sauce over the pork. Serve immediately.