Description

A fun and unique route, with the rare chance for the some well-protected bolt clipping in the second pitch.

P1. Start straight up as per West Country, belaying just at the bottom of the MONSTER flake.

P2. Climb under, then through the flake. There's very little pro in there, but it's really easy and you won't go far with a fall. Exit the flake in about 80 feet, where there are two bolts (optional belay). Best to clip one of the bolts and keep going - clinging up the side to the top of the flake. Belay on top from two bolts.

P3. A nice long face climb past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt belay. Some of the bolts look a little old.

P4. A short runout face rejoins West Country on it's final pitch. Undercling an overlap until the crack runs out and the angle gets low.

You can actually use one 60m to get down from the top of the flake. With a 70m you can skip that anchor midway and right of the flake and go straight down the flake to a slightly hidden set of chains about 20ft below the bottom of the flake. I think a 60m might make it if it stretches enough - but I can guarantee a 70m works. Then next rappel gets you to the ground.

We planned to rap off after the first pitch of "Boltway" but didn't find any rap rings at the belay, just 3 bolts (2 old). So we finished up boltway and walked off. Boltway is certainly well bolted, but about half of the bolts are somewhat small and old, and one is a very bad 1/4" rusty bolt. Fun slab climbing though.

P1 has a 5.8 variation start (see Reid book). It follows the right facing corner up to a 2 bolt anchor/rap station. The pitch requires small gear (000, 00, 0, C3's) - I always feel like I'm going to peel, but have not taken the slide yet! You can then link up P2 of the flake and rap off - nice 2 pitch warm up or cool down...