35 entries from February 2007

It began about a year ago. I was introduced to a vinegar called marine vinegar. The name of the place that sold it has slipped my mind. Not that it was a bad place, actually the ingredients were great. (Actually, Shola may remember, perhaps he'll comment) The smell and taste of the marine vinegar sparked the remembrance of a recipe where Jean Louis Palladin marinated a variety of seaweeds in balsamic vinegar to serve as part of a dish. We had borrowed that idea and paired balsamic seaweed salad with grilled skirt steak and smoked tomato jam at The Bradley Inn years ago. And I return to present day, now actually several months ago when we returned back to New York. On the counter in the kitchen was a jar of homemade vinegar we started here a year ago. The vinegar had matured and was intense. As we unpacked our things I came across some beautiful kombu and wakame. Everything came together. I added the kombu and wakame to the vinegar and let it infuse. At first the vinegar was out of balance, smelling of intense sun drenched damp seaweed mixed with the biting aromas of vinegar. I pushed the vinegar jar back into the corner and waited some more.

Now the vinegar is balanced. Intense, yes and balanced. The vinegar and the aromas of the sea mingle beautifully together, reminiscent of the marine vinegar I sampled and the balsamic seaweed I mimicked, though as an ingredient all its own.

With the ocean vinegar ready in the pantry I set out to integrate it into our cooking. I wanted to make a jelly of the vinegar to serve with oysters or foie gras, pork and clams, roasted sweetbreads wrapped in nori. And I wanted to make a jelly to be served hot. Those were the ideas. Today I prepared a simple warm salad which the ocean vinegar is a great accent and element. The salad and the jelly are served warm, the aromas wafting from the plate and the warm jelly an unexpected element.

Here is the link thanks to Asbel to Francvin the supplier of the marine vinegar.

Call it luck or call it serendipity. I'm feeling very special today. It's not because of any one thing, in fact it's because of many small things that seem to be falling into place. Alex and I are feeling quite charmed and I mean to savor the emotion for as long as it lasts. We saved a bit of money and that allows us that magical element of flexibility. In this case that means that we have time to explore our options and figure out which leaps of faith will suit us the best. We're not out on the street or wondering how to pay for food or for rent. We're doing a bit of free lance work, enough to know that we truly enjoy it and feel blessed to have opportunities coming our way. We're also considering some job options because while we're not strapped for cash it is dwindling. We're also not convinced that we have enough money yet to open our own place. A few short term opportunities have presented themselves and we are considering them carefully. Because we can and because they can teach us a lot and remind us what it's like to be in a busy kitchen with staff and diners and all of the things we've missed most this last few years. No decisions or commitments have been made and there is lots of temptation to see what can be done in the short term. We know that not everyone has the options that we have and so we are thankful each day that we can do what we love and share it with like-minded individuals across the globe.

During the cruise we went to a series of lectures by Solutions in Mind. Although we missed the last talk in the series due to our own commitments, we enjoyed Steven's discussions about how the way that you phrase your ideas can actually influence their outcome. One of his suggestions was to stop using the word "but", one of my personal shortcomings, and substitute the word "and" and see what happens. "But" is definitely a negative and his point was that it cancels out whatever came before it in your train of thought while the word "and" links the two ideas together. I rather liked that image of linking ideas. It is after all, the basic precept on which most partnerships are based.

In cooking, I've often found that too much is simply too much. The idea of using the word "and " while creating recipes can seem overwhelming or just plain silly to someone who appreciates simplicity in dining. Although when you think about it, even the most basic recipes probably have more ingredients than you realize. For example, cacio e pepe, pasta with butter and cheese, involves the pasta itself, butter, water, salt, pepper, and freshly grated cheese. That's six ingredients for a seemingly uncomplicated dish. Often people are overwhelmed when viewing the ingredient list in recipes and to avoid the appearance of difficulty, many writers leave basic ingredients like salt, pepper and water off of the list. They are still integral components of the finished composition but are deemed so obvious and basic that they need no mention at all.

We have always focused on the appearance of simplicity in our dishes. Although readers know of the layers of technique that may go into building a dish, to look at a photograph or a plate in a restaurant our dishes are meant to seem simple and approachable. The beauty of this site is that people who are interested in the background work can find details but those who are not can skip to the ideas that interest them the most. Everything we create has to taste good and then we build upwards from there. In our basic thought progression the idea of "and" is actually how we develop each dish. Can we add this flavor and this richness and this texture and this acid? We add as many elements as we think we need to in order to balance a dish and then we whittle them down to their hearts. Admittedly we can be ruthless editors when it comes to the finished process. The creative spiral always begins with the word "and". And each addition adds something essential to each progression throughout our day, whether it lingers in the finished product or simply leads to the progression of something else that remains.

*In editing this post I removed three separate "buts" and this with a conscious effort to leave them out...

I have spent a fair amount of time going through our notebooks and working on the concepts for dishes. These sketches, actually more elaborate drawings, are the result of time on the ship working on the elements which eventually become a dish. Many of these dishes are in their skeletal form, though it is essential for me to visualize them in order to bring them to fruition.

I just finished reading Essence: Recipes From Le Champignon Sauvage by David Everitt-Matthias. I have read it cover to cover, not wanting to miss any insights or sparks for ideas. The book is also packed with information; for me the wild foods glossary in the back of the book is truly essential. The description of these wild ingredients as well as the integration into recipes is truly captivating. This book is truly a catalyst for ideas. In my case I burned through a post it note pad with ideas sparked and triggered by the writing and recipes in the book. For me this book is a great springboard for thoughts on food and that is the essence of the book.

On a side note though of perhaps even greater importance is how David's cooking matured. I became truly inspired by his comments that when he stopped cooking for the guides and the critics and cooking for himself and what he liked to eat success began to come his way. Simple.

I have continued to work through the flavors and components for the dish inspired by black forest cake. We began with the base squab which is marinated in soy and tart cherry juice. The crumbs are crispy pumpernickel. We made a puree of cocoa nibs and tart cherry for the chocolate element and for the cream, we made a base of horseradish and elderflower which we whipped and served alongside the squab. A few tender cocoa nibs and cherry syrup accent the cream.

And now to the taste. The dish is big in intense and subtle flavors. Tart cherry balancing the cocoa, pumpernickel supporting the chocolate and playing off the horseradish. Texture also plays a huge roll in the dish from the crumbs to the tender squab to the thick cocoa nib puree opposing the light horseradish. Where does that leave us? With a handful of ideas.

I guess today is share some reading material day. How to be Creative is a manifesto by Hugh MacLeod. The name says it all. If you have read it already, you know why I am pushing it. If not, read it. Not here, click the link, download the piece and read it.

NO, I am not going to put some quotes to entice you. It will truly help give your brain a good kick in the arse.

I just finished reading reading the manifesto by Mathew May, Elegant Solutions: Breakthrough Thinking the Toyota Way . Why read this? Because it will get you to think about creativity, the process and the execution of ideas. The above link allows you to download the manifesto. This piece of writing has been on my desktop for several weeks now and I finally sat down and read it. I could go on about how the piece is now dog eared and underlined with scribblings of my own notes, it is. The point is reading it and then harvesting the ideas and systems which will allow individuals to further excel, in anything.

A few quotes from the text to further drive you to read this document:

"Behind each of the over one million ideas implemented at Toyota every year is a mindful approach to innovative work driven by a companywide war on imperfection coupled with a disciplined creative methodology."

"It's about ideas.""...a hidden process much closer to the bedrock of human creativity and interaction."

"An elegant solution is one in which the optimal outcome is achieved with the minimal expenditure of effort and expense."

We were mulling over the fact that so many of the most successful restaurants in New York City are the ones that go for tasty food. Not fancy or high flying, not innovative or unusual, the best places tend to make consistently tasty food that may change with the seasons but basically remains the same year after year. On a side note, have you ever noticed how many restaurants whose menus change seasonally are exactly the same for the corresponding seasons each year? Every spring, summer, winter and fall they return to their greatest hits list, saving any actual new inspirations for the daily specials. Not that it matters as long as the food remains good. There's nothing wrong with knowing what works for a particular place and sticking with it, as long as that's what makes you happy.

Yesterday we visited two restaurants that have become like staples in our repertoire. Since the last time we visited one of our staple places (neither of these) was sadly disappointing I was nervous about attempting two in one day. I'd hate to end up with no safetys in my back pocket. The gamble paid off. We were pleasantly surprised on both counts and had two good meals which is always a beautiful thing.

Momofuku was where we had our lunch. It was very entertaining sitting at the counter. The cooks and wait staff seemed to be in high spirits and having fun in the kitchen. The mood was infectious. The pickle plate was intriguing, the deep fried sweetbreads were fantastic, the hamachi was impeccably fresh, the steamed pork buns as satisfying as always, and the one mishap was quickly corrected and forgotten and a good time was had by all. The funniest moment was when we overheard the ladies beside us basically being told (nicely) that the pork belly was perfectly cooked (which it was) and that they couldn't cook the fat out of it because it was pork belly and it was supposed to have fat. This sentiment was presented as an impassioned statement by a man who had obviously heard the request many times before. I immediately flashed back to a pork belly eaten recently in Sydney that had all of it's fat surgically removed before being reassembled and arriving at our table. I found it odd but still good while Alex felt as though it missed the point of serving belly at all.

The second meal, actually with Mom for dinner was at Lupa. Lupa tends to be a go to place with Mom because she actually likes it almost every time we eat there. We haven't been there in February ever and were pleasantly surprised by some of the dishes on the menu. The braised oxtail with orange zest was delicious and paired beautifully with the 2004 Vietti, Tre Vigne Barbera d'Asti that we were drinking. The many pastas we ordered were perfectly cooked and nicely seasoned, standouts being the ricotta gnocchi, the special orrechiette, and the spicy linguine with mussels. The pork special was a yawn but the tartufo made up for it nicely. As always, the noise and cramped conditions are part of the ambiance and listening in on the conversations that swirl around can be very entertaining. Seated at a section of the communal table across from Mom and Alex I probably caught more of our neighbors conversations than our own. It was pleasant evening with good food, wine and conversation that didn't break the bank. What more can you ask for on a damp Wednesday evening in the city?

I was inspired by Aki's comments on weaving pumpernickel and Black Forest Cake together. Unfortunately, I did not have all the ingredients I wanted. Therefore, the black forest idea still needs to be brought to fruition. Till then, I still wanted to work with some of the flavors and ideas. I marinated squab breasts in soy sauce and tart cherry syrup overnight. I then poached them slowly. When they were cooked, I rolled them in our extra crispy pumpernickel crumbs. What are extra crispy crumbs? We dry out slices of pumpernickel and then rehydrate them with a water-glucose-isomalt solution. We then break the bread apart, dry it again and grind it into crumbs. The result is a super crispy bread crumb which remains crisp when applied to a moist product, like a squab breast. We then paired the pumpernickel squab with a salad of arugula and blood orange. The dish is tasty, just not exactly what I want. I want to finish the Black Forest squab. Alright, I'm going; off to the store to get the rest of the supplies.

My train of thought has recently been fueled by some great photographic posts over at Eggbeater. The pictures capture the birth of Spring (a bit early) with shots of almond and plum blossoms. I began to think of the possibilities of using these flowers in cooking. I was also reminded that in harvesting the flowers, you get no fruit. A dilemma. Well, as I pondered the scenario I looked up at our lemon tree and saw its one lone blossom. Actually, it is not our lemon tree, we gave it to Marie as a gift several years ago. We also bought trees at that time and managed to see them, well die. Marie has kept hers alive and well, yielding several Meyer lemons each year. Back to the subject at hand and the multitude of culinary possibilities. What can we do with blossoms? What should we do with blossoms? And what if there is only one blossom?

There's something very satisfying about coming home at the end of a trip. If you've had a great time and you're happy to be headed back home at the end of it, then you know that it was the right length and the right place. If you've had a really great trip, as we did, you come inspired to create new things and to dive right back into the action.

As you can see from the previous posts, we jumped back into the kitchen as soon as we could. Arrived home late on Friday and went to Fairway on Saturday afternoon. We promptly proceeded to spend an embarrassing amount of money there. We hit the store around 4pm, a cardinal sin on the weekend, and it was a zoo. Definitely worth the effort though, as we amassed a wide array of products including the amazing pumpernickel bread that was the base of those gnocchi and ice cream recipes that we posted over the last few days.

Pumpernickel bagels were a staple from my childhood. I never ate them but someone else must have loved them because they were always in the sack of bagels on Sunday morning. I don't remember if the pumpernickel lover was Mom or Uncle Steve or both of them, but that was the most exposure I had to pumpernickel or black bread over the years. Countless Russian tales are woven around black bread and caviar or smoked salmon and I believe the late MFK Fisher wrote an essay on consuming oysters with pumpernickel. Occasionally at catered events we would see it under toppings as hors d'oeuvre. Still, no one I knew ever seemed to actually eat the stuff on purpose. So when Alex threw out the idea of cooking with pumpernickel I was intrigued. I didn't really remember seeing him ever eat pumpernickel either.

The loaves we got from Fairway were amazing. Unfortunately I don't remember who made them, perhaps it was the Fairway label because there is no sticker on the bag. They had a soft pillowy interior and a crisp crackling crust. The bread was pre-sliced making it easy to nick a piece or two or three as time went by. It had a great tangy flavor with nutty undertones and in your face flavors of aromatic rye. The taste sensation lingered on the palate, challenging us both to think of new combinations and textures to frame it's unique characteristics. The ice cream came first, then the gnocchi, and we're working out a cavatelli dough as well. The pumpernickel would make an intriguing stuffing for game meats with dried fruits and dark beer or a savory bread pudding with fat mushrooms and Madeira. Used as an element in black forest cake, the rye flavor in partnership with dark chocolate, stewed cherries and softly whipped cream would be a mysterious twist on the original. Or you could layer the crumbs between sheets of filo and wrap it around a fat chunk of oozing soft cheese, like Brie de Meaux, and saute it quickly in clarified butter so that the crispy coating wraps around a cheese that is melting at the edges but still cool and creamy at the heart.

This what we do, we toss around whatever ideas come into our heads when we discuss a new inspiration. Our lists spin out endlessly during the course of a conversation. We choose the ideas we like best and puzzle out the best way to bring them to fruition. Some days it's an ingredient, some days a dish or a flavor that catches our imagination and sends it soaring through countless kitchens we have known or dreamed of or stumbled upon. We don't shoot down anything, no matter how outlandish it seems at first, unless we both agree it won't work. Then we edit down to actual dishes. That's our system for working out new ideas. What do you do in your kitchens?

Today we put the finishing touches on our pumpernickel gnocchi. We served them with warmed watercress sauce and shards of Cypress Midnight Moon cheese. The sauce is an adjusted version of the watercress puree we used with the ice cream and smoked roe.

Today we began work on the pumpernickel project: crepes, ice cream, gnocchi, jelly, spaetzle, cavatelli, pudding, broth and whipped. I began with the two most approachable: ice cream and gnocchi. Though as I write and the ice cream churns, I might be able to use some of the gnocchi base to make the cavatelli. We shall see. So, for those at home with some leftover pumpernickel here is our recipe.

Combine the half and half, heavy cream, glucose, salt and maple syrup together in a pot. Bring the mixture to a simmer and then temper into the egg yolks. Bring the entire mixture back to 160 degrees F, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and strain over the toasted pumpernickel. Let the toast absorb the mixture, then puree everything in a blender. Strain the mixture and chill overnight in the refrigerator. The next day, freeze the ice cream in an ice cream machine. Serve with..., well for us, we are going to serve it with Steve's smoked sea trout roe and watercress soup.

To make the vanilla salt we take 8 ounces of fleur de sel and one Tahitian vanilla bean. We cut the bean in half and scrape out the seeds. We combine the vanilla seeds, the salt and the bean in a bowl and mix together to disperse the seeds. We then put the vanilla salt in a ziploc bag for several days to let the flavors infuse. The vanilla bean itself stays with the salt as it will continue to perfume the salt.

Remove the breasts from one squab. Remove the skin and season with vanilla salt, then wrap in plastic wrap to seal the salt next to the squab. Chop up the carcass of the squab and saute in a small medium pan. When the bones are brown, deglaze with a 1/2 of a cup of vermouth. Cook the vermouth down until it is reduced by half. Add a quarter cup of soy sauce and a tablespoon of minced ginger and the zest from one orange. Add one cup of rootbeer and one cup of water and cook together at a light simmer for 45 minutes. Skim any foam or fat that comes to the surface. Strain the broth and reserve.

Peel one large turnip and cut it into a large dice. Discard any irregular pieces of turnip. Take the cooled squab broth and use it to cover the turnips in a pot. Bring the turnips to a simmer and cook until just tender. Strain the turnips out of the broth and reserve. Strain the broth again and cook down to a light syrup consistency. In a 200 degree oven, place the squab breasts on a rack still covered in plastic wrap. Cook for 20 minutes for a medium rare squab. While the squab is cooking, reheat the turnips in a saute pan with a small nob of butter. Sprinkle with sweet and salty hazelnuts. Take the squab out of the oven, let rest for five minutes, unwrap and slice each breast in half lengthwise. Lay the squab on a plate and place the turnips between the two halves. Sprinkle a bit more vanilla salt on the squab and pour the sauce around . Place nasturtium leaves on the squab and turnips.

Sweet and Salty Hazelnuts

1 cup peeled hazelnuts1/2 cup sugarVanilla salt

Cook the hazelnuts and the sugar together in a pan over a medium heat. The sugar will caramelize and the nuts will toast. When the sugar and nuts are amber in color and look sandy, season with vanilla salt and then spread out on a sheet of aluminum foil brushed with olive oil. When the nuts are cool, break up into small chunks.

Combine all ingredients in a food processor and pulse to blend. Once the mixture comes together into a rough dough, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough, adding additional flour as needed, until it becomes smooth and silky to the touch. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for at least 30 minutes to rest.

Coarsely chop 5 shrimp and combine with mascarpone, pinch of salt, sherry and a few drops of Tabasco in a food processor. Scrape the mixture out of the processor into a mixing bowl. Slice the remaining shrimp into 1/2-inch pieces. Finely slice the basil. Fold the shrimp and basil into the mousse. Cover and keep chilled until needed.

Divide the shrimp mixture into eighths and form each portion into a ball. Roll out half of the pasta dough in 2 4x18-inch rectangular sheets, use just enough four to keep the dough from sticking. The dough will become transparent but still hold together. Try not to tear the pasta dough as you roll it out. Space four shrimp balls evenly across one pasta sheet. Cover with the other sheet of pasta. Press the dough around the shrimp balls, removing any air pockets between the filling and the dough. Cut out the raviolis, set them on a lightly floured sheet tray and place them in the freezer. Repeat the procedure with the remaining dough and shrimp balls.

Season the rib eye cap with salt, cover and set aside at room temperature. Blanch the bok choy in a large pot of boiling, salted water until just tender. Allow the vegetable to drain on a plate lined with a clean dishcloth or paper towels. Refill the pot with fresh water and salt and place over high heat to cook the raviolis. While the water is coming to a boil, take a heavy-bottomed sauté pan and place it over medium high heat. Add enough beef fat to coat the bottom of the pan, adding additional olive oil if necessary. Depending on the size of your pan the cap can be roasted as one large piece or two smaller pieces. Once the fat is hot and moving rapidly across the bottom of the pan add your meat. Sear each side of the meat to a dark crust and remove the meat to a warm plate. Cover and place in a warm spot to rest.

While the meat is resting, combine the black bean paste, ketchup, yuzu juice and vermouth in a large, shallow pan. Bring the sauce to a boil and remove a couple of tablespoons to a large bowl. Add the bok choy to the remaining sauce in the pan. Simmer until the vegetables are hot. Cook the raviolis in the boiling salted water for five to seven minutes until the filling feels firm but tender and the pasta is cooked. Transfer the cooked pasta to the bowl with the sauce and toss to coat.

Cut the rib eye cap into four pieces, arrange on plates with the bok choy and shrimp raviolis, and serve.

Rub the meat generously with sea salt and set aside while the smoker comes to temperature. Once the smoker is smoking, remove it from the heat and add the meat. Leave the meat in the smoke for 15 minutes and then transfer it to a large plate and cover loosely with foil.

Place the rutabaga in a small pot with a tablespoon of salt and enough water to generously cover the vegetables and set over high heat. Once the water comes to a boil, simmer the vegetables until tender. While the rutabaga is cooking, warm the milk in a small pan to just under a boil. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the rutabaga to the blender and add the cold butter. Blend until the butter is incorporated. Add the warm milk in small increments until the pure is smooth and creamy. Check seasoning and ad salt if needed. Strain the puree through a fine chinois and keep warm in a small pot.

Heat a heavy sauté pan and add olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Once the oil is beginning to smoke, add the rib eye and sear on all sides. Remove to a warm platter, cover with foil and let rest.

Slice the porcinis in half. Place large sauté pan over high heat and add 1 tablespoon of butter and one tablespoon of olive oil. Once the fat is hot and moving rapidly in the bottom of the pan, sauté the mushrooms until golden brown on both sides. Season with salt. Add the thyme stems and remaining butter and baste well. Remove the mushrooms from the pan and drain on paper towels.

Slice the meat into eight pieces and arrange on plates with the rutabaga puree and porcini mushrooms. Serve.

iThis year we took another look at our rib eye in three services recipe which we wrote about last year and updated it with new ideas and flavors.

Today we begin with the first service.

These recipes consist of taking one three-bone rib eye and breaking it down and using the parts in three different dishes that could be served as a progressive meal. We will separate the meat into three pieces: center cut flat, center cut roast, and the cap. We will also render the fat to use as a cooking medium for some of the dishes. These recipes are designed around one three-bone rib eye roast to serve four people.

Rub the beef with a generous amount of sea salt, cover and set aside at room temperature while you prepare the fat. Place the beef fat in a pan just large enough to hold the meat and add enough pure olive oil to bring the fat to a depth of three inches. Add the lemon slices and garlic cloves to the oil. Place on a slow flame and bring the temperature of the oil to 135-degrees F.

Once the temperature has reached 135-degrees, add the beef to the pan and regulate the temperature to stay at 128-degrees for the duration of the cooking time. Poach the beef in the seasoned fat for 30 minutes. Pull the beef from the pan and wipe gently to remove excess fat. Place on a dish in a warm place and cover with foil to rest the meat while you prepare the salad.

Toss together the onion, jalapeno, tomatoes and the juice from half a lime. Season to taste and set aside to marinate. Wash and dry the basil and romaine. Finely slice the basil and the cut the lettuce crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. Toss the basil and lettuce together with the tomato mixture. Check the seasoning and add salt and pepper if needed.

Slice the beef into eight pieces. Arrange each plate with salad and two slices of meat and serve.

And today we conclude with the third service of barramundi. What is really tasty in this dish is the kaffir lime salt which we use to season the inside of the fish skin. The kaffir lime infused balsamic vinegar is another tasty condiment which will keep for alternate uses.

Roasted Barramundi Loins

Two loins of BarramundiSkin from two filets of barramundiButchers Twine3 tablespoons of olive oil3 tablespoons of butter

To make Kaffir lime salt, puree 5 lime leaves with 4 tablespoons of sugar to make a fine sandy mixture. Pass the mixture through a medium sized sieve and then add an additional 1/2-cup of fleur de sel. Mix together and set aside.

Remove the fish skin and loins from the refrigerator. Season the loins with the lime salt. Lay each loin in the center of one of the skins. Wrap the skin around the loin so that it covers it completely. Trim the fish skin if there are loose flaps or an excessive amount of overlap. Use butchers twine to tie the fish loins so that the skin stays in place. About six ties at one-inch intervals should be sufficient. Ones the loins are tied, dry them with paper towels and place on a cookie rack over a sheet pan in the refrigerator so that the skin can dry some more by being exposed to the air.

Place the balsamic vinegar, soy sauce, remaining lime leaves and agave nectar into a small pot and reduce by two thirds. Strain the mixture and set aside in a small ramekin.Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season the water with salt. Blanch the grape tomatoes in small batches for five seconds and then place in a bowl of ice water. When the tomatoes are blanched, remove them from the ice water and peel the skins. Place the tomatoes in a bowl and season with fleur de sel and fresh cracked pepper. Set the tomatoes aside at room temperature.

Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan. Cut each loin of fish in half so that you have four portions. Season the fish and then place in the sauté pan. The fish will need to be cooked on all sides to crisp and brown the skin. Sear the top of the fish, then each side and then the bottom seam side. When you flip the fish on its final side, add the butter. It will foam and froth. Use the butter to baste the fish. When the fish is cooked, remove it to a warm plate. Meanwhile heat another sauté pan on high heat. Season the cubed foie gras with salt and add it to the pan. Make sure the foie gras lays flat in the pan to get a good sear. Flip the cubes over and then remove them from the pan and keep in a warm place. The residual heat will finish cooking the foie gras. When the foie gras is removed from the pan add the tomatoes to deglaze the pan and just warm the tomatoes. Add two spoonfuls of the balsamic infusion, and then fold in the foie gras and the julienned basil.

Cut the strings off of the fish. For each plate, place a spoonful of the tomato and foie gras salad on the plate. Set the roasted loin of fish next to the salad. Drizzle another spoonful of the kaffir lime infused balsamic over the fish and tomatoes.

As you may have noticed, recently we have been posting more recipes and fewer pictures. The reason for this change has been our time here on the ship. It has proven to be quite difficult to upload photos using the internet connection provided. So until we get back to New York next week pictures will be somewhat sparse. On the upside, our demonstrations and cooking classes have forced us to actually sit down and write recipes which we are happily sharing with all of you. It's a trend we hope to continue as the year progresses.

Many situation have come up over the last week forcing me to ponder the nature of partnerships and teamwork. We have been congratulated on the entertainment value of our "schtick" during the demonstrations. Little do they realize that's it's actually the way we tend to relate to one another. Fortunately we both have equally twisted senses of humor and so things usually to work out in the kitchen. Sea kayaking turned out to be something a little bit different.

For those of you who have never been out in a two-person kayak let me tell you that communication will make or break your experience on the water. The person in front, in this particular instance me, is supposed to be the navigator, letting the person behind know which direction to move in and when there are obstacles ahead. The person in the back, Alex, is supposed to be the pilot, setting the direction with the rudder and actually steering the course that the kayak will take. The guide jokingly referred to them as divorce vessels and after a couple of hours on the water we could understand why. A few snippets from our afternoon:

"Go left, left! We're going to hit the other kayak.""Could you please wait until I actually run into something before freaking out. I know what I'm doing back here. Have a little faith my abilities"

"Could we move closer to shoreline. I can't see anything from here.""But all the people are over there.""Well it's a guided kayak trip, there are supposed to be other people with us.""That doesn't mean we have to kayak near them."

"Stop paddling! I'm braking back here. You're working against me""Oh really, somehow I couldn't see that with the eyes in the back of my head. You might want to tell me what you're doing back there.""I'm telling you, stop paddling!"

"Why don't you just enjoy the scenery and let me paddle? It's much easier that way."

"Could you slow down. They told us not to get to far ahead of the group.""So what? I'm enjoying this.""But it's supposed to be a scenic cruise. I can't see anything when we're paddling like this.""But it's fun.""Could you just slow down!""Why?""Because-""HEY YOU, OVER THERE, STOP! WAIT FOR THE GROUP!!""I knew that was going to happen."

"What was that??""Um sorry about that." Waving to the people in the next kayak. "We just ran into that kayak.""Why didn't you tell me we were getting that close?""Because you told me not to give you directions until you hit something and you hadn't yet!"

We did survive the kayaking trip. The area that we visited was quite beautiful, although strangely there were no fish in the water at all. I saw one sting ray, many birds and the distant goat family on the hillside. When we were done we had a mediocre lunch, a rip roaring argument and then all was right with world. Every once in a while you just have to let loose.

This is the second service of barramundi, utilizing the belly meat as a roulade which is slow cooked in the oven. The seasoning of lemon zest and sesame oil permeates the fish and provides as haunting bright background flavor to the fish.

Barramundi Belly Rolls

Two Barramundi belly sectionsZest from two lemons minced2 tablespoons of sesame oil2 tablespoons of olive oilFleur de sel

Lay the fish bellies out on a cutting board and butterfly them with a knife so that they lay flat. Cover the bellies with a sheet of plastic wrap and then firmly pound them flat with a meat mallet. When the bellies are of a uniform thickness, remove the plastic wrap and season the top with salt, sesame oil, olive oil and lemon zest. Flip the bellies over and season with salt. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap out on a flat surface and then lay the bellies out on top. The bellies should overlap a bit and form a rough rectangle. Use the plastic wrap to roll the fish into a tight jellyroll. When the fish is rolled, use another sheet of plastic to reinforce the roulade of fish. Set in the refrigerator to chill and firm.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan. When the butter is melted, add the anchovies and pepper flakes. Cook over a low heat so the anchovies break apart and dissolve into the butter. When the anchovies have disappeared, add the capers soy sauce and red wine vinegar. Remove the mixture from the heat. Puree this base mixture and then pass it through a fine meshed sieve.

Lay a sheet of aluminum foil on a counter. Brush it lightly with olive oil. Break the mushroom clusters into small chunks and lay on the foil. Pour the anchovy-butter base over the mushrooms and turn them around on the foil so they are coated evenly. Top the mushrooms with another layer of foil and systematically crimp the two sheets of foil together to create a sealed foil package.

Blanch and shock each of the herbs separately and then squeeze them dry. Heat the olive oil and sesame seeds together in a small pan and when the sesame seeds turn just blond, remove the pan from the heat. The residual heat of the oil will finish toasting the seeds. When the oil is cool, puree it and the seeds with the herbs in a blender. Season it with a pinch of salt. A fine puree will result. When the puree is silky smooth, remove it from the blender and pass it through a fine meshed sieve. Reserve the puree in the refrigerator.

Heat one oven to 400 degrees and the other to 200 degrees F. Place the mushroom package in the hot oven. Remove the cylinder of fish belly from the refrigerator and slice into 8 equal portions. Lay the fish on a foil lined sheet pan, which has been brushed with olive oil. Place the fish in the oven still with the plastic around the outside of the slices. Cook for 20 minutes, until firm but translucent. Remove the fish from the oven and set in a warm place to rest. Meanwhile, the foil package should have ballooned and the mushrooms inside cooked to a firm tenderness. Remove the mushroom package from the oven, carefully cut open the package releasing the steam. Remove the mushrooms and set on a plate. Pour the mushroom juices into a saucepan and place over low heat. Whisk in two spoonfuls of the herb puree and set aside. Place a spoonful of the herb puree on each of four plates. Top with the two roulades of fish (make sure to remove the plastic) Top the fish with a cluster of mushrooms and then pour the mushroom-herb sauce over the top.

The following few posts will follow the use of one barramundi served in three services. Besides being a fun way to show a number of uses for one fish, it is also a great way to throw a dinner party around a theme, using one fish as the star. I had thought to post all three services at once, though that gets a bit long. So, today we begin with a raw preparation of barramundi: first service.

One five-pound barramundiFilet the fish. Take the time to remove the cheeks from the fish and reserve for a chefs snack.

Remove the pin bones from the fish and then remove the skin and scrape it clean of all flesh. Season the skin with kaffir lime salt and set aside in the refrigerator. Remove the belly section from each filet and set aside together. Take the loins of both filets and trim the tip and tail from each, reserving these pieces for tartare. Wrap both loins of fish tightly in plastic wrap and chill till firm and ice cold.

Sliced and Minced Barramundi with Hot Vinaigrette

16 slices of barramundi (8 from each loin of fish)Barramundi trim reserved from breaking down the whole fish, run through a coarse food mill.

1 tablespoon of minced ginger1 tablespoon of minced garlic2 tablespoon of sliced scallions3 tablespoons of soy sauceJuice and zest of one lime4 tablespoons of argan oilFleur de selPulp from two ripe passionfruit

Four slices of grilled sourdough bread

Lay the slices of barramundi on a plastic wrap lined plate. The barramundi trim is passed through a food mill to yield a fine minced fish without any sinew. Brush the slices of fish with the argan oil, then the soy sauce and finely sprinkle with the sliced scallions. Just before serving season the slices with fleur de sel. Meanwhile mix the ginger, garlic, remaining scallions, soy sauce, argan oil, lime juice and zest and passion fruit pulp together. Use this to mix with the minced barramundi. You may not need all of this dressing for the fish. Once the fish is dressed, season with a few sprinkles of fleur de sel. Place the minced fish in the center of each of four plates. Top with the slices of barramundi. Serve the grilled toast on the side.

Puree the brie cheese, ketchup and mustard in a blender until smooth. Fold in the lemon zest, celery leaves, cornichons, smoked paprika and Parmigiano cheese. Mix this base with the crabmeat. Set aside in the refrigerator.

Bring the three cups of water to a boil. Add the tea bags and let steep for five minutes. Remove the tea bags and add the dried mushrooms, soy sauce, agave nectar and the lemon. Set aside. Clean the artichokes. Remove the outer leaves of the baby artichokes until the tender inside leaves are revealed. Use a pairing knife to peel the base and stem of the artichoke. Trim the top and stem of the artichoke and then place into the tea mixture. When all the artichokes are cleaned, bring the tea mixture to a simmer and cook the artichokes until they are tender. Use a pairing knife inserted into the base of the artichoke to test for doneness. When the artichokes are cooked, let them cool in their braising liquid.

Remove the artichokes from the braising liquid and pat them dry. Use a melon baller to remove the small choke of the baby artichokes. Divide the crab mixture into 12 equal portions and then mold each portion in and around each artichoke, leaving the stem exposed. Stand the crab-artichokes on a sheet pan and place in the freezer for 15 minutes to firm up. Set the flour, egg and panko in three separate dishes, arranged for a breading station. Have a clean sheet pan at the end of the station. Take each crab-artichoke and dip first in flour, then in egg and finally in bread crumbs. Take care to cover the crab mixture but to leave the artichoke stem clean and exposed. Once the breading is finished, place the fritters in the refrigerator to set up once again.

Heat the olive oil to 350 degrees in a pot large enough to hold the oil and four frying fritters. Also turn the oven onto 200 degrees and have a sheet pan with a cookie rack on it to place the fried fritters. In batches, fry the fritters until they are golden brown and warm on the inside. Remove the fritters from the oil, drain off any excess oil and then place in the oven on the rack set up while the other fritters fry.

When all the fritters are cooked, place three of them on a plate. The cheese will be molten on the inside, acting as a seasoning and sauce for the fritters.

This is a dish that has evolved and matured over time. If you do not have the time to make onion juice, saba or aged balsamic work as great alternatives. However, the onion syrup itself is a great staple to have in the kitchen and one of my favorite sauces for steak.

Cut the tuna loin into four equal portions and place into a dish, which will hold the fish. Blanch the mint in boiling salted water and then shock it in ice water. Drain the mint and puree it with the olive oil. Strain the mint oil and pour it over the fish in its dish. Turn the fish in the oil so that it is evenly coated. Cover the fish with plastic and place in the refrigerator. Turn the fish every hour so the mint oil infuses the fish completely.

Juice and strain three white onions. Mix the juice with the soy sauce and sherry vinegar. Reduce the juice till it becomes thick and syrupy. Remove from the heat and let cool. Slice the Comte cheese into thin sheets and then cut into ¼ inch squares. Remove the tuna from the oil and pat it dry. Place each piece of tuna on a plate and season with fleur de sel. Place the sorrel leaves and Comte squares over the fish in a polka dot like pattern. Spoon the onion syrup in a small pool to the side of the tuna so that the diner can dip the tuna into the syrup.

My favorite part of this dish is the combination of the green olives and the melon, so if you only make a portion of the recipe, give that a shot first. It is a great condiment for fish and meat, foie gras and sweetbreads even as the base for a vegetable compostition.

Remove the top and bottom from the melon. Now it will stand flat on a cutting board. Using a knife, shave the rind from the melon. Once the rind is removed, cut the melon into four quarters and then remove the seeds. Trim each quarter of melon into a perfect rectangular plank, reserve the trimmings for later use. Cut each rectangle into three batons and set aside. Place the melon trimmings into a sauté pan and cook over medium heat. The melon will release its liquid and then reabsorb it as it continues to cook. Cook the melon until it is completely dry, it will begin to stick to the pan. Remove the melon from the heat and let cool. Place the melon on a cutting board and mince finely. Place the melon back in a bowl and fold in the minced green olives with a bit of the brine. Reserve the mixture.

Heat another sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and the salt. Stir the onions to help facilitate the release of moisture in the pan. When the onions are dry in the pan add the cherries, port and agave nectar. Cook slowly until the mixture is moist but sticky. Remove from the heat and set aside in a small ramekin.

Heat the 3T of olive oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Pat the scallops dry and then season them with salt. Add the scallops to the pan one at a time. If you do not have a large enough pan to cook the scallops all at once, cook them in two pans. Once the scallops are in the pan turn the heat down to medium high. You will notice a crust starting to form on the scallops. At this point add the butter to the pan and with a spoon baste the scallops as they cook. Also turn the heat down if the butter thinks about scorching. Once a golden crust has formed on the scallop, turn them over in the pan and continue to baste for another minute. Remove the scallops from the pan and keep them in a warm place.

To serve, space out the rectangular melon batons on each plate, leaving a space for the scallop between the interior batons. Break up the Roquefort cheese into four chunks. Place the melon-olive mixture in the void between the rectangles and top each dollop with a scallop. Place a chunk of Roquefort on top of the center melon baton between the scallops. Finally, place a spoonful of the cherry-port marmalade on top of each scallop. Crack fresh black pepper over the top.

This is another recipe from one of our demonstrations. In fact, we needed to adapt it on board to use John Dory because turbot was unavailable. Both fish work great in this recipe.

One three-pound turbot

One large papaya3 tablespoons fish sauceJuice of one lime2 jalapenos minced3 tablespoons of olive oil

One pint of whole milk yogurt1/2 cup of basil leaves2 tablespoons of agave nectarPinch of salt

Clean the turbot. Use scissors to remove the fins and head. Cut the turbot in half lengthwise and then cut each half in half again. Rinse the pieces of turbot in cold-water then pat dry and reserve in the refrigerator.

Peel the papaya and cut in half. Remove the seeds, rinse them of any pulp and place on a foil lined sheet pan in a 200 degree F oven to dry and become crispy. When dry, coarsely pulverize to resemble cracked pepper. Reserve. Cut the papaya halves in half again lengthwise and trim into rectangles. Season the fruit with the fish sauce and lime juice and place on a sheet pan in the refrigerator.

Place the yogurt in a sieve lined with cheesecloth, in the refrigerator for at least four hours, although overnight would be ideal. Reserve the yogurt water for cooking the fish. Blanch and shock the basil, then puree it with the drained yogurt, agave nectar and salt. Strain the yogurt and reserve in the refrigerator.

Season the turbot with salt and place in a shallow pan large enough to hold the fish. Pour the yogurt water over the fish and cover with plastic wrap. Place the pan in a 200-degree oven for 20 minutes. The fish will be firm but cooked. Let rest for five minutes. While the fish is in the oven, pull the papaya rectangles out of the refrigerator. Strain any juices and mix them with the olive oil and the minced jalapeno. Place in a small pot and warm. Place the papaya in a low oven to warm through. Remove the fish from the pan and peel off the skin. Using a palate knife, remove the fish from its bones. Place a papaya rectangle on each plate and top with the fish. Spoon the vinaigrette over the top. Place a spoonful of the basil yogurt next to the fish and sprinkle with the crushed papaya seeds.

This recipe is great for breakfast or a first course. I like it because it has griddled toast and poached eggs together. Even if you omit the poached egg, these grits are great to eat. They can also be served as a side dish or part of another.

Fill a large pot with water and a generous splash of vinegar and set it over high heat. Coarsely chop the shrimp and then sauté in the olive oil until just cooked. Remove from the heat and chill. When cold, pulverize the shrimp in a food processor until they resemble coarse grains similar to coarse cornmeal. Reserve in a bowl. Heat the milk and the corn together in a small pot. When the corn is hydrated and the milk is hot, add the butter, the salt, and the Tabasco and transfer to a blender. Puree the mixture until it is silky smooth and then strain through a fine meshed sieve. Chill in a bowl over an ice bath. Fold the corn puree into the ground shrimp and add the chives. To serve, warm the mixture slowly in a pot. You may need to add a splash of milk to thin the mixture.

Using a rolling pin thinly roll out the slices of white bread. Cut off the crusts. Sauté one side of the toast in the butter and then remove it from the pan. Mix the egg yolk, flour and cream together to form a paste. Season the paste with a pinch of salt and a dash of Tabasco. Place a dollop of the mixture in the center of the toasted side of the bread. Meanwhile poach the eggs, then remove from the water and pat dry on a tea towel. Place the poached egg in the center of the toast and then place the toast back into the sauté pan to toast the other side of the bread. When the second side of toast is becoming golden brown, spoon equal portions of the grits into bowls. Remove the toast from the pan and place the poached egg into the grits with the golden toast on top.

Being in Bernie, Australia it makes sense to write about Tasmanian Sea Trout. Here is a dish of slow cooked Tasmanian Sea Trout on warmed papaya with shiso leaf and crispy lotus root. The lotus root provides a crisp nutty texture to the tender fish. The papaya is warmed and dressed with lime juice and salt a firm terrine like texture below the fish. The shiso leaf adds an herbal note, which piques the flavors of the fish and the papaya. A pomegranate syrup adds an acidic point to the dish.

It's Monday morning at 10:15 here in Burnie, Tasmania. What are we doing? We're doing what any good football fans would be doing, sitting in the Navigator Lounge, getting ready to watch the Superbowl. It's too early for barbeque and beer but there are a few die hard fans listening to Billy Joel sing the National Anthem. (Most of them are watching from the Bar in the casino). What can we say other than: Go Colts!

Here is a dish with our truffle infused egg yolk. Its creamy rich texture and heady aroma compliment almond crusted braised sunchokes and sliced elf mushrooms. The elf mushrooms have a firm meaty quality to them and the almond crust on
the sunchokes adds great texture to the dish. At first I was looking for a sauce or puree to finish this dish, though in eating it the spreadable quality of the miniature egg yolk allows the diner to accent bites as they wish. The sauce/puree was not needed; the dish ate great as it is.

We have settled in nicely on the MS Statendam, our new home away from home. I love being out on the water, the motion of the ship lulls me. I have always enjoyed being on or near the water. In my younger days I dreamed of living on a sailboat or a small yacht. As I grew older I modified my dream from living on a boat to a home near the water where I could own a small craft that I would allow me to glide out onto the ocean at a moment's whim or fancy. The vessel could be as small as a kayak, as long as it could carry me out onto the water I would be perfectly satisfied.

We did our first demonstration today. Aptly enough, the theme was seafood. Our first recipe was for oysters draped in a yuzu vinaigrette. The vinaigrette is set into a thin gelee, which is cut into rectangles and draped over the oysters. We've learned that flexibility and a sense of humor are all we need to overcome any small snafus in our performances. Today the vinaigrette was set into a soft jelly and spooned onto the shucked mollusks. We had fun with our audience and enjoyed sharing a spotlight once again. One of the very best things about cooking is sharing what we do.

After the demonstration we the audience stopped by to taste the prepared dishes. One woman who came up to me had never tasted a raw oyster. She had been led to believe that they had to be swallowed whole. Understandable the idea of sliding an entire oyster down her throat had given her pause. She was delighted to realize that were meant to be chewed, to release their flavors and to better appreciate their peculiar, silky textures. I gave her one draped in vinaigrette and she was a convert. It made my day. There's nothing like seeing someone experience something new and wonderful for the first time.

So, without further ado here is the recipe for our oysters draped in yuzu vinaigrette. It is meant to feed four people but if you love oysters as we do, it will only feed two. Use whichever oysters you have access to and love most. I prefer them small and sweet but their flavors are as myriad as their places of origin.

Warm the water, soy sauce and agave nectar over a low heat. Add the bloomed gelatin and warm to melt. Add the yuzu juice. Stir the mixture until the gelatin is dissolved. Add the jalapeno and shallots to the mixture. Pour the mixture onto a plastic wrap lined sheet pan. Place the pan into the refrigerator to chill.

Use an oyster knife to open the oysters. Set aside. Remove the yuzu gelatin from the refrigerator and cut into one-inch squares. Place a square on top of each oyster. Sprinkle with chives.

George Blanc knows ingredients, particularly vegetables. In an era where artisinal and local are buzzwords it is certainly great to thumb through a book driven by impeccable unadulterated ingredients. George Blanc's book The Natural Cuisine of George Blanc brings ingredients to life. It is amazing to think this book was published in english in 1987. Blanc truly captures the essence of ingredients and shares them openly in this book. Not only is this a massive coffee table book (it is) but a book in which ideas and thoughts seem to jump from the pages.

Some days we look into
the refrigerator and find small amounts of beautiful ingredients left over from a photo shoot or and idea in progress. We hate to waste ingredients and so we try to come up with tiny dishes in order to utilize the product. There's always an opportunity to create something new and wonderful as long as you have a well-stocked pantry. We like smaller portions in the evening anyway, going to bed on a full stomach is never a happy thing for either of us. That's why we love restaurants that are open for lunch. We realize that not everyone can indulge in a leisurely afternoon of food and wine but if we're going to have a big meal, that's when we prefer to do it.

So after a recent visit to Chelsea Market there was a single beautiful scallop left over one afternoon. It had been cooked sous vide and chilled. As we walked the dogs, we debated what to do with it. Alex wanted to make it into tartare and I was amenable to that. His thought was to crumble in tiny bits of piave vecchio instead of salt. Since we were already in Italy, I added some tomato powder (sourced from O&Co.) and Manni olive oil to the mix. A bit of Meyer lemon zest, chives and freshly ground pepper finished the scallop portion of the dish. In addition to The Lobster Place we had also visited Buon Italia and come home with some gorgeous slices of Prosciutto de Parma. There was some balsamic vinegar in the pantry that had been aged in cherry wood and they both seemed like natural additions to the dish. It was quick, simple and delicious. The recipe below is for one scallop but you can multiply that as many times as you please.

Combine scallop, cheese, tomato powder, chives, lemon zest, black pepper and Manni olive oil. Taste and season as needed with fleur de sel. Arrange the prosciutto on a plate forming a soft, flower-like cushion for the tartar. Place the tartar on the prosciutto. Pour the balsamic vinegar gently onto the front of the tartar letting it form a small pool in the front of the scallop. Serve.

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