Runway trends in Milan

MILAN (AP) – Reflecting on a Milan Fashion Week that marked the re-emergence of denim and the pre-eminence of the flat Birkenstock-inspired sandal, the question was bound to surface: Wherein lies luxury?

Milan designers are clear on their response: in Italy’s artisanal traditions.

Whether reviving the dying art of brocade in the factories north of Milan, perfecting sartorial crafts to create new shapes, or honouring the centuries-old Murano glass-blowing traditions with textiles mimicking its melting striations, Milan designers touted Made in Italy, the calling card that distinguishes Italian brands and, more often than one might expect, raises ready-to-wear to an art form.

Giorgio Armani, who rolled out the summer collection that will herald his company’s 40th anniversary, is all about mastery – but avoids the term luxury altogether.

“Luxury is surrounded by other things, super-decorated stores,” Armani told reporters recently after showing his main Giorgio Armani line. “Rich can be of substance, refer to content, to the workmanship. Sometimes luxury has zero workmanship.”

Etro’s collection features the chilled-out looks of San Francisco’s hippy heyday

Marni’s collection features bold prints which incorporate various colours

THE WEARABLE LIGHTNESS OF FASHION

Perhaps the biggest trend out of Milan were light looks, effortless without being ethereal, from billowing floor-length Georgette dresses that trail on the ground to paper-thin trench coats, super-fine knitwear to translucent layering, over and under. These looks were understated, suggesting more than they reveal, and inviting motion. Dresses were all covering, but still clung momentarily to the body with every step.

1970s FLASHBACK

Designers took us on a psychedelic trip back to the fashion-rich 1970s.

The hippie looks were crafted out of suede – a must for next season – denim (will get to that later), and leather, with heavy helpings of fringe, beading, laser cut detailing, macrame and even granny squares. Get out the crochet needles!

MILAN’S DENIM REVIVAL

Who can forget the 1980s era of designer jeans.

The Milan Denim Revival of 2015 is nothing if not a relief from that stomach-sucking era. Italy’s designers have volleyed back with relaxed denim looks, turning their nose up at spandex and jeggings that have made tight jeans any (wo)man’s game.

ACTIVE WEAR

If there was a battle cry this season, it was ready-to-wear made easy-to-wear. With this, came an emphasis on active wear.

If there was a battle cry this season, it was ready-to-wear made easy-to-wear. With this, came an emphasis on active wear.

OF PLATFORM AND TENNIS SHOES

Ten-inch heels will be rotating to the back of the closet next summer. To the fore: more forgiving wedge and platform sandals, and a fair bit of flats, including sneakers.

Much of the footwear may tip an evolutionary nod to Birkenstocks, but designers raised the game, by incorporating geometric elements into the platforms, and, of course, luxury materials.