Chicken wings and a night of debauchery

Filling a 25,000-seater stadium, Philadelphia’s annual chicken wing-eating competition is hotly contested by the some of the “best” eaters in the land. But the Wing Bowl is so much more than a spectator sport – it’s a night of debauchery.

It’s 5am and everybody’s already drunk.

The Wells Fargo stadium has only just opened its doors, but most people here have been standing vigil in the parking lot, passing beer cans back and forth out of the trunks of cars.

Each entrance is styled to perfection, each contestant carefully costumed, each flanked by an entourage of strippers.

Yet I soon realise that the strippers are not the only women in the stadium expected to bare all for the crowd’s amusement.

You see, at the Wing Bowl, the eating of the wings is hardly the main event.

As the competition rumbles on – 30 minutes of wing-scoffing separated by a few commercial breaks – our eyes are on the Can Cam – a camera which picks out the chests of individual audience members and broadcasts them on the gargantuan JumboTron screens.

The more wings consumed, the more aggressive it gets.

The first few women broadcast are expecting it.

They cheer and pull up their shirts the moment they see themselves on screen.

A few have even worn specially coloured bras in anticipation.

Each chicken wing is usually split into two parts – or portions – known as the “drumette”; and the mid-section or “flat”
To qualify for the Wing Bowl, Molly Schuyler ate nine pounds of cottage cheese in 114 seconds
According to the National Chicken Council’s 2014 Wing Report, 1.25 billion wings will be devoured in the US during Super Bowl XLVIII in 2014
A chicken has two wings, and chicken companies are not able to produce wings without the rest of the chicken
The concept of cooking wings in peppery hot sauce was born in 1964 at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, New York, when co-owner Teressa Bellissimo cooked leftover wings in hot sauce as a late-night snack for her son and his friends
But the camera, and the crowd turn unforgiving.

The women chosen by the Can Cam are no longer the designated strippers, or those actively courting the lens, but ordinary punters – women in sweatshirts and knit caps making every effort to be left alone.

One woman notices herself on the screen and titters awkwardly, trying to wave the camera away.

The audience starts heckling her, but the camera doesn’t move.

The boos grow louder, and at last she realises it will not pan away until she does.

Half a second of her breasts, and the camera grows bored, moving on to the next victim.

Only in the final rounds of the competition does the audience’s attention shifts toward the wing-eating itself.

One of the contestants -Tiger Wings n’ Things – has reached the verge of vomiting.

Barbecue sauce smears across his face; some has dribbled down to his beard. He retches but manages not to open his lips.

Her fingers jerk from the bowl to her mouth with mechanistic speed”

The camera is on him now. It will not look away.

Everyone screams together: “You heave, you leave!”

The Jumbotron starts up in slow motion, replaying regurgitations past.

One, from 2011, is the crowd’s clear favourite – pink spew no less revolting at 26,000 frames per second.

Tiger Wings n’ Things tries not to look, but it’s too late.

His vomit, when it spirals from between his fingers, is almost dainty – nevertheless, it’s enough.

The crowd is ecstatic.

Soon, a leader emerges.

Molly Schuyler, a slender square-jawed woman, sporting multiple ear-piercings and a red and black bandana, breaks the world record when she eats her 348th wing.

She is the only woman contestant and the only one without a costume or a campy pseudonym.

Her fingers jerk from the bowl to her mouth with mechanistic speed. The other contestants are bestial, managing to seem hungry even after several hundred wings. But Molly is a machine.