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That’s the philosophy of Wendy Turnbull, the author of a new cookbook, Gems of Gluten-Free Baking (Whitecap, 2010, $29.95). The Calgary homemaker and former nurse, diagnosed with celiac disease 30 years ago, has been carefully weighing, measuring and milling a variety of wheat-flour alternatives at home in her kitchen for a very long time. With the patience of a food scientist, Turnbull toiled to find a mixture of non-allergic grains that would best mimic the properties of flour, which has a heavenly ability to create foods that are both light and airy, yet moist enough to hang together.

A lifelong lover of baking, Turnbull considers it both a pleasure and a duty to let people know that it is possible to bake scones, cakes, flans, tarts and squares with gluten-free flour alternatives; treats that celiacs can eat themselves, and proudly serve to guests at the same time.

"It was a challenge, but I always loved to bake and I want everyone to know you can have delicious food," says Turnbull, in Edmonton recently to promote the new book.

Part of the problem for celiacs is that it can be difficult and expensive to create from scratch, or to purchase, tasty baked products. Turnbull says this can make it hard to comply with a special diet, and that can lead to health problems. Celiac disease is an immune disorder that affects the small intestine and leads to damage when gluten products are consumed.

There have been many attempts over many years by many people to come up with good alternatives to wheat flour, with mixed success. Generally, Turnbull says bakers rely on a combination of starch and/or white rice flour to replace wheat flour, but this combination lacks nutrient content and the products are often dry and crumbly. After years of experimenting, Turnbull has come up with a basic mixture of four gluten-free flours, including brown rice flour and sweet white sorghum flour. Amaranth, buckwheat, chickpea, millet and quinoa are some of the other flours that are part of the mix. Turnbull says these flours offer better nutrition for celiacs and the products stay fresh longer.

The combination, which Turnbull calls GEMS flour, can be made in large quantities and stored in the refrigerator. Turnbull suggests keeping a few cups in the cupboard as well (all baking should be prepared with flour that is first brought to room temperature). She also tells cookbook readers how to convert a wheat-flour recipe to a gluten-free flour recipe.

The book has seven categories of baking, from yeast and quick breads to pies and tarts. It is well-organized, with toothsome photographs, and lots of easy-to-digest information about the 13 whole grain, gluten-free flours that Turnbull works with. "People aren’t aware that there are so many nutritious, gluten-free whole grain flours that are very good for baking," says Turnbull.

She says that there is little in the way of books about fine baking for celiacs, and that was part of her motivation to create Gems of Gluten-Free Baking. She says the book will also benefit other people with a variety of food allergies and intolerances, including diabetics.

Here is a recipe for a quick bread that Turnbull says people with food allergies, as well as their friends and family, can enjoy.

Currant Scones

The recipe yields six scones and is traditionally served at afternoon tea with a dollop of Devon cream. This one doesn’t use the GEMS flour combination, but relies on brown rice flour and guar gum. It is made without eggs for those with egg allergies.

Combine buttermilk and yogurt. Add to dry ingredients, stirring just enough to moisten. With spatula, shape into a soft ball. Turn dough out onto prepared sheet and pat into a six-inch (18-centimetre) dish. Sprinkle with sugar. Bake 20 minutes.

When cool, cut into six wedges. Serve same day.

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