I recommend to use small multigrip pliers (Hazet 760 N-1) instead of the heat gun to remove the plastic cover. Squeeze the cover from both sides and it will go off without destroying or bending it permanently.

I was able to get the cover off by using a combination of channel lock pliers and a 2mm thick rubber garlic peeler sheet. I put the rubber sheet over the plastic cover and gently gripped it with the pliers, wiggling it until I heard a click. One side came up and was able to squeeze the other side with my fingers and remove it. No marring or distortion to the cover. Obviously, being gentle is key.

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Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap. Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket. It slides out from under the 'vertical' board. Shouldn't be too difficult.

I used two extension bars and a socket of a 1/4" socket set to knock out the battery terminal form the logic board side to the battery load hole without destroying anything. I have not removed the circlip beforehand.

The battery terminal is hold in place by a small heel in the tube. The circlip will clip in when you later push the battery terminal back.

I used a circlip pliers (Hazet 1843a - 12) to squeeze the circlip an bring the whole battery terminal back into the battery tube. I used the same tools to knock in the battery terminal until it latches into its designated position.

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Here you can see the pole that the screw went in. You can remove this, which allows you to remove the power button and the white housing.

Also, here is the battery terminal (spring loaded) which had to be forced out. It's held in the tube by the expansion ring, which unfortunately is the best-made bit of this keyboard. I forced it out using a long screw driver, but unfortunately broke the wires. Keyboard had died anyway, thanks Apple.

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No quibble at all. My keyboard ca. 2010 years old is two batteries. No question but that the A1255 had three, the A1314 which I have is two. Duh! (for me). I didn't think initially about model numbers and I got enough out of this to make it work

Thanks to this post I managed to remove a stuck battery on an A1314, pushing the battery out with a letter opener.

The ribbon cable is not hard to remove, but a little trick to open and relock it back? I just had cataract surgery which didn't help, but it's pretty obvious when you take a close look.

There was no corrosion; the keyboard was working. Someone installed off-brand batteries, no leaks just stuck. New name brand (copper tops) slide in and out without a problem.

Wow.. you destroyed this thing! It would be great to have a guide that wouldn't need you to replace every component after opening it up! I'm looking into powder coating (once I remove the anodizing) this and my apple trackpad, so I would like to not destroy any part. I wonder what kind of glue can be used to re-bond the base to the frame...? Thank you for at least showing us what "not" to do when tearing it down.

I had this keyboard fail on me, and the 'ball of tin foil in the battery compartment' didn't work.

The grey plastic pops off with a small screwdriver - 6 clips hold it in place.

Re: the screw that’s at the ‘button’ end. Remove the screw, then you remove the ‘pole’ that the screw went into (it unscrews too). This will allow you to remove the board (it’s a squeeze, but you can pull it out) - you might need to push in the white plastic beside the button wall to allow you to get it out.

I was unable to non-destructively remove the internal battery terminal. The metal expansion ring which holds it in place appears to be the most well-made part of this entire £59 keyboard :( Only way I found was to knock it through forcefully with a long screwdriver - from the 'internal' end, out through the battery hole. The red wire became disconnected when I did this. It was connected to the point that sticks out the bottom of the battery terminal. Black wire connects to the expansion ring.

Thanks a lot for the detailed tear down description! I was able to repair my keyboard and have no to by a new one. I don know how it can happen, but after a battery change the plastic cap on the end of the battery terminal was flipped around and the battery's positive terminal had no contact with the current collector.

Well I have two of these and both have failed with the 789, bio, jul, m,. keys. Strange eh? BTW, if you just lever the white plastic panel carefully with a longish blade, you can get it off non-destructively.

My ones have the grey cover in the centre rather than at the end.

I will stick them in the shed and if anyone wants them for spares (just pay the post) , try and get in touch