I was recently at a car show just outside of Boston, Mass, where hundreds
of cars were being shown.... No Deloreans, though there was one bright
orange Bricklin. The best part of the car show was hanging out near the
Bricklin listening to people convince their friends it was a Delorean...
The owner didn't think it was quite as funny having to humor people who
wanted to talk about the D, and not about his car at all. Oh well...
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Ryan,
When I replaced mine I pulled one of the old bulbs out and
took it to a volvo/porsche dealer. They
had the replacements for them. Hope this helps.
Jason #5903
> Hi list,
> I have already talked to a couple of the parts vendors about this, but now
I
> would like to direct it to everyone, maybe someone could help.
> There is little lights behind the A/C control panel 7 in all They light up
> the "Door Lock" light defrost light and fain fail light. Has any one found
> these in their local parts store?
> OR do you have a cross referance that works?
> Thanks so much!
>
>
> Ryan- vin.#16301
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

You're right David, my Otterstat fell off today, turns out the metal clip was
missing, it was held on by silicone seal. I hadn't checked it, it was ok up to
now. You have to wonder how dumb mechanics are wherein they know where to go but
not what to do when they get there. This was done before I got the car, my fault I
hadn't checked, but to be fair there's a lot to check when you first jump in, I got
most of it (I think).
jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net wrote:
> You missed the moral of the story. If you had taken care of your car
> and not let the hoses deteriorate to such an extent as they obviously
> had then you wouldn't have gotten in trouble. I find that MOST
> problems on the road were preventable with some normal maintainence
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

As a new owner I would certainally appreciate advice on what to check in a
"pre-flight". Not being an expert auto mechanic nor having direct access to a shop
willing and/or competent to work on my car limit my options. My limited experience
as a mechanic means I do not necessarily know what needs to be changed or when. In
addition, my limited exposure to a Delorean means I am unaware of not only what
components to check up on but where they reside on/in the vehicle. Having the
manuals do not solve this concern alone.
My major challenge as a newbie is finding the resources to help me maintain my car
for myself and future generations. I really appreciate the positive and helpful
responses I have gotten from Steve and Warren in (DMC) Houston as well as DMC Joe in
Atlanta. Their patience and experience has saved me a great deal of heartache,
time, and money. In addition, I have received a lot of help and ideas from this
news group.
Thanks to you all for the support and I certainly would appreciate a copy of your
preflight checklist David. I feel confident that the advice offered by you and the
others in our group will keep a lot of us from "getting what we deserve".
Especially when we don't necessarily know from whence our cars came.
Respectfully,
Ed Garbade
garbadee_at_dml_bigfoot.com
Vin# 10541
jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net wrote:
> You missed the moral of the story. If you had taken care of your car
> and not let the hoses deteriorate to such an extent as they obviously
> had then you wouldn't have gotten in trouble. I find that MOST
> problems on the road were preventable with some normal maintainence
> and like they do on airplanes a "pre flight" or at least a once over
> with an eyeball.
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Two weeks ago, we wondered about the weight of a bare Delorean frame.
Just to be sure, I put the frame of my D on a weighing scale today.
Result:
The weight of the frame of my D (with Epoxy-Coating) is 96kg (+-2kg).
The conversion factor between kg and lb is approx. 2.2
(see http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/Metrics/factors.htm)
The weight in lbs is therefore 211 lb.
Martys figure of 197 lb is perhaps the frame without Epoxy Coating?
bye,
Ralf.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

How about ill informed Mike, whacko and bogus seem a little harsh don't you think? I've been given to understand that some, including certainly Hank Breer do post. Didn't know that. Had someone other than a moderator responded to a post in that fashion I'd be on
you about it. Not good, not cool and not fair. (Bogus means "fake" by the way).
Les Huckins wrote:
> [MODERATOR NOTE: While I've allowed various whacko theories to be posted before, this one is obviously bogus. A number of long-time DOA Directors follow the DML and some participate frequently. Museum Director Hank Breer posted *yesterday*, for crying out loud!]
>
> Well Cameron, most everyone who tries to do business with CA DMC-1 seems
> to have some sort of problem. I've seen only one exception on the list,
> that I recall.
>
> This leads me to another question. The DeLorean Owners Association
> Board of Directors, Tech Editors, etc. do not seem to contribute to, nor
> participate in, the list. Is it one of those things where it's them and
> us or are we all the same group? Certainly Ed Bernstein (DMC-1) does
> not contribute and he seems to be one of the most involved and
> knowledgeable and with great amounts of experience. He's a major player
> in the association. I see by the magazine he does a lot of emcee work,
> I think with his hat on backwards or something like that, seems like a
> great guy, and yet...! He does put beautiful ads in the magazine
> though..."call me and I'll come pick up your car, wherever you are, and
> you're troubles will be over."
>
> I wonder!
>
> (Moderators if this doesn't fit throw it out...my motto always: "when in
> doubt, throw it out.")
>
> [I probably should have done that, Les, but the potential drama of a DOA Director responding to this post was just irresistable to me. -Moderator Mike Substelny]
>
[Very long quote not snipped to preserve appearance of impartiality.]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

"Jim Reeve" wrote:
> I agree with everything John said, but I have one comment to add.
> On my OEM fuel sender (which works perfectly I might add), my
> low fuel light comes on at exactly 2.5 gallons remaining.
I don't know wheter I have a TankZilla or not, I guess not: when I got my D it
had neither a Lock- nor a FanZilla; I installed both of them. I haven't opened
up the tank area yet, but I will within the next couple of weekends to check out
the wiring to the fuel pump (runs constantly whith ignition set to II, RPM relay
and Inertiaswitch can be pulled out and the pum will keep running...).
If I understand the pictures at hand the TankZilla can be recognised by the
little box in the wiring responsible for converting the signal for the after
market sending unit, right???
So if I have a box I have TankZilla, if not it's OEM?
Any way, my lights starts to flicker after about 200miles of driving for me,
when I fill up then I need about 42liters (about 11 gallons), when it lights
continuously I can put in 46liters (roughly 12 gallons). I usually don't let it
come to continuous lighting...
What I did notice is that the last 1/4 of the gauge drops really quick; within
about 20 miles, while the top 1/2 of the gauge takes about 100miles...
Guess I'm lucky I monitor my miles reasonably well; it seems the most dependable
way and resetting the tripmeter at every fillup is SOOO easy...
Greetings,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Today I received a copy of my message replying to Ryan's question
about lights from mdrig(at)email.msn.com telling me to take a look
at the attached file "fun.pif" I had never seen this person post
before & because the attachment wasn't really titled, I scanned it
with my virus program & lo & behold, It told me it was a virus &
recommended that I not download the attachment. So if anybody
else on the list receives a message from mdrig(at)email.msn.com,
saying nothing but take a look at an attached file entitled "fun.pif,"
I would recommend that you not download the attachment &
delete the message immediately!!!
John Yeoman
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Loosely tighten the three brass screws on the intake. If it won't idle
on the idle motor there is a problem or adjustment needed in the idle
system or the control pressure regulater. If it only does this when
hot it could just be the mixture screw is way out of adjustment or
there is a vacuum leak you have missed.(Check the plug over the
mixture screw is there and not leaking).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> Heres some more details on my idle problem.
>
> All the Vacuum lines seem to be alright.
>
> The Frequency valve is buzzing like it should be.
>
> If I can get the car to stay running long enough to get
to the engine I can keep it running
> if I pull the throttle lever back a little but If I let off and let
the throttle lever hit the microswitch it will
> die just a few seconds later. Is this a sign of a bad microswitch?
I pulled the wires off and cleaned
> the contacts but it didn't help any. Is there anyway to rebuild
this? What about the Idle speed
> regulator? Can that be rebuilt?
>
> Thanks for the help......................Jason
# 5903
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

> > I occasionally see posts about spare keys.
[snip]
> Walmart Auto Key Blank 51 works for single key D's.
I have a single key DeLorean (#05141), when I was in need of a a new key (only
had two worn copies) I searched the archives... I wound up with a list
containing 14 (!) different possibilities from different places an brands...
My locksmith was able to match up the keys using his directory, crossreferencing
to the ones he could made clear that of the 14 possibilities there were at least
6 positive cross references. The Ilco X29 was one of them, the one in his
directory (of which I have two now) was a Silca Italy NE68AP.
He cut this blank after DECODING my "original" copies; he mad a new key
according to its original specifications!!! I now have a card containing ALL
data needed to cut a new key, even without an original handy!
This being said, please let's not start ANOTHER keys thread; read/search the
archives, that's what they're there for!
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

In a message dated 7/17/01 2:33:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
William.Buckner_at_dml_pfizer.com writes:
> Do later vin's not have some of the
> problems everyone allways talks about?
Judging by your vin you have a later one. Some early cars have had all the
most necessary work done, others did not. Some upgrades are built in to all
the later cars, like the improved radio antenna. Other stuff requires normal
maintenance or you will have problems, just like with any other twenty year
old car. Case in point: trailing arm bolts.
Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Grfoup
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

FIrst determine with an ohmmeter if the idle speed microswitch is working
or not!!
After finding out how much the idle speed microswitch went for, I decided
to take mine apart...
The microswitch case has two pieces that fit together and is held
together by three pins (and glue, I think).
These pins are very small, and can be seen near the joint of the two case
halves... One on each side and one on the back.
I'm not sure how you'll get them out besides drilling them out, or
breaking the case. I found a lot of corrosion on the contacts of my
switch, which was easily remedied. I made new (removable) pins for the
switch from a paperclip. I think the half hour it took to fix it was
better than getting a new one for $75... How valuable is your time?
Jim 1537
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Before I sold my DeLorean, I replaced the bulbs in the car.
The bulbs in the A/C fascia are available.
They are an ORSAM. They are available at any foreign auto parts supply store.
Retail is $1.00
Michael Pack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

John, You said it your self, 95% of the problems is the accumulator. The only
check valve I have sold with out the fuel pump was to a shop who replaced the
fuel pump that a Auto store recommended and they didn't know it needed a
check valve, then the De Lorean owner wonders why he's having acceleration
problems. Your statenments are correct. But: what do you do if you have the
older long neck ver of the fuel pump 954 or 964 with a built in check valve.
It can't be replaced. The 957 has a check valve that can be replaced. The
other way to check the thermo time switch, is to check it for open or closed
in hot or cold water. You can see the different fuel pumps on the site.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/fuelsystems.shtml
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Jim, One other thing about the original fuel sending unit. I can adjust the
unit to make the light come on quicker or later and I can make it come on if
it doesn't. I have mine and others adjusted to come on with about what you
said. I tried to run mine as low as possible with out running out of gas and
I put in 11.8 gallons. I like it that way.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/fuelsystems.shtml
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Casey,
My '81 #5501 had the same problem and it turned out to be that tach itself was
bad. Had our local shop (Mesa Auto Works) run tests to confirm. It just would
not go over 2500, I bit the bullet and ordered a new one from DMC Houston and at
the same time had my speedo refaced and recallabrated to 170MPH...its really
cool to now just how fast I am actually going here in AZ.
Regarding the D-1 issue my job takes me across the country and in the mid 90's I
had the pleasure of spending some time at the D-1 shop. Ed was very pleasant and
even opened up early just for me and spent 2 hours with discussing my current
problems and showed me how to install the parts that I purchased via some cars
needing the same repairs. I am not interested in opening up this can-o-worms
with D-1 as it has been more that covered on the DML but I just wanted to share
my experience that I enjoyed with D-1. My.02 only!
Randal W. Brown
AZ-D Club President
> As many of you have realized by now, my tach does not work correctly,
> but gives an incorrect reading consistantly and refuses to drop below
> 1500 or go above
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Hello,
This week I finally put a new trans/gov computer on my car. FYI: It
took about 1 1/2 hrs to replace the computer, and put in new gaskets. I am
amazed. It shifts great now. Before this the car would shift through all 3
gears but at high RPMS's(5000 or so sometimes), Every now and then starting
off in 3rd. I put in about 6 high powered magnets on the filter and pan for
extra safety.
I just wanted to let you all know in case you had any of the same
symptoms I had. Rob Grady has new trans computers, not NOS ones. The
original company is still producing them I guess, they are not rebuilt.
goodnight
David
"IN2TIME"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Long post ahead, but very insightfull for some.
BTW Ryan, my low fuel light does not come on at startup. Nor has it
in any of the other 9 cars I've ridden in.
Remember, the fuel sender is posistioned in the very front center of
the gas tank. This means that anytime your going up a hill or
accelerating, the fuel guage will drop for the moment. Last year, my
speedometer was dead, so I was going by the gas gauge to know when to
fill up, not by mileage driven. I often filled up when the needle
showed 1/8th a tank. The average fill here was about 8 or 9 gallons.
Fast forward to this year, and some of you will remember I had my
entire binnacle taken apart about as much as it could be, which meant
even the individual gauges were dismantled. This was for my
backlighting project, which I am still working on. I had every needle
removed from every gauge. There is no way to tell if the needle shaft
had moved since the needle had been removed, so I had to come up with
a way of making sure I could get the needles back on proporly. What I
had done, was hot-wired the proper pins on the gauges using the help
of the wiring diagram and the printed circuit on the back of the
cluster. I was then able to force the shafts to a consistent
position, and reattached the needles. However, after I had put the
needles back on, I did "bump" them a few times. Since there was no
longer 20 years of friction built up connecting the needles on the
shaft, some of them slipped. So now my gas gauge points strait up
when I have a full tank. It looks like I have a faulty sender, but it
is really not the case. This means that since the 4/4 and 0 marks are
90 degrees apart, then the 1/2 peg on mine would be 0, for an empty
tank. So now, even though I'm driving knowing I have very little gas
left, I have not been paraniod and intimidated by the 0 mark. This
has resulted in my discovery, that the needle on my unit drops at a
very constant rate down to right about 0, (or in my case 1/2). It
then holds there for a long while unchanged. It then will start to
drop more, at about the same rate as it did with the full tank. Then
about 1/8 below that (below 0, or in my case 1/2), my low fuel light
will flicker. THEN I fill up with gas, and top it up to about 10.8
gallons. (Never have reached 11). The DeLorean has a 13.3 gallon
tank, but remember that once the fuel gets to a certain point, it will
no longer be usable as there is also air being sucked into the fuel
pump. This is how I came up with the 2.5 gallon mark, and 20-40 miles
left, based upon 15mpg to 30mpg between some cars, still giving some
to spare. I currently feel confident driving untill my fuel light
comes on, and even then I know I can still go a little further if
absolutely neccessary. I dont know what the possible difference is
between the cars, since the later cars supposedly we had the exact
same sender, but I do have a theory. It seems by other posts that the
most common problem inside the OEM sender is corroded contacts. It is
entirely possible, that the contacts for the light were dirty, and
never had a strong enough connection to actually turn on the light,
untill all gas was gone and the float was heavy enought to trigger it.
Keep in mind that I have never actually seen the inside of a sender
since I've had no problems with mine, so I'm only guessing. And heck,
I dont even know any history of my car before I got it, so I may not
even have an original sender. (But I do know that I dont have
tankzilla).
I hope to see some of you at Houston, and although I wont have any
prototypes of my backlit dash availible, I hope to have my new custom
overhead console ready and installed for everyone to see. Any other
comments or questions are encouraged! Later everyone.
(One last note...
Today, I installed a new cycling switch in my accumulator, scooped out
3 handfulls of crud from the evaporator, vaccumed out the condensor,
and managed to unglog my clogged AC water drain. The result, some
dang cold AC! I got fog forming on the outside of my door windows!
Houston and Knoxville are gonna be mighty cold come August.)
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., theshovel1224_at_dml_y... wrote:
> That's interesting, Jim. I now have tankzilla installed, because my
> old fuel sender would point straight up occasionally. When I still
> had my original sender installed, I remember I had very low fuel,
> less than 1/4 tank, and I drove up a steep hill & the fuel gauge
> dropped to empty & only then did the low fuel light flicker. I have
> also read somewhere, maybe in the archives, about different
> experiences with the low fuel light & one said that the low fuel
light
> came on when the gauge hit empty, & he ran out of gas 30 seconds
> later. According to service bulletein ST-28-11/81 a different fuel
> sender was introduced at vin 5238. Both you & I would have this
> type of fuel sender, (my vin is 16822) so that wouldn't be what is
> causing the discrepancy. Any ideas?
>
> John Yeoman
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> > I agree with everything John said, but I have one comment to add.
> > On my OEM fuel sender (which works perfectly I might add), my
> > low fuel light comes on at exactly 2.5 gallons remaining.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Ryan and group. I have the bulbs but trying to work on a better deal for us.
I have to buy in quanity.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Mike
That "feeling" you had after the 400 miles was very special. I get a little
piece of that feeling each weekend when I take out my D. # 6905. I wish more
people could be as lucky as us, and experience it also. Keep that dream
Mr.Pike, you deserve it.
Bill Glover
DMCIMF _at_dml_aol
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

A number of people have contacted me privately and were worried that when the
hotels sold out they would be left out because they were going to stay at a
friend or relative or they lived in the area and would not be getting a room.
Usually about 25% of those attending do not require rooms at the specified
hotel or choose to stay elsewhere. I have accounted for that so just because
all the rooms myeventually fill up does not mean that the show registration
is sold out. I would encourage early event registration because I really
don't know how large this event is going to be but I do have restrictions at
400 for fire code. I think it will be in the 350 to 400 range.
Because John DeLorean plans to be there I will try to accommodate as many as
possible. Event Registration will begin at the end of this year or January
1st at the latest. You will be kept updated.
Goerge Crane says hi and he can't wait to join us in Memphis.
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

It may be worth giving PR Technology in Brookvale, NSW a call to find
out what they used. These are the guys that converted William
Junkins' DeLorean, and they did a wonderful job. Their number is 02
9905 6316.
Rick
www.deloreanaustralia.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Ryan, I gave my two cents worth on the fuel sending unit as another
post, If your rear defrost light doesn't come on, then either the
bulb is bad or the switch contacts arn't touching properly. I would
advise that if your not used to working on small electrical Items
like switches, then don't take it apart, you may not get it back
together. Don't even take the cap off. There is a spring inside the
unit that could fall out and if lost, good luck. I have put them back
together, but they are very tricky.
As far the cooling fan light, The original design was to come on when
a fan failed. If you still have the original blue box plug in, i
would remove and replace it with The Fan Fail Fix, I have wired it to
show you the fans are getting power and you can see the cycling of
the low pressure switch in the air conditioning system and the
otterstat also.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/modifications/
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hi list,
> I have three questions:
> 1. At what point does the low fuel light come on?
> 2. Is the Rear defrose light suppose to come on when you turn on
the
> defroster?
> 3. When is the cooling fan fail light suppose to come on? When they
fail?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ryan- vin.#16301
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Ryan and others. I have taken several original fuel sending units
apart and repaired them. You can see some of the work I have done on
the web site. If the bottom of the tank light doesn't come on, it's a
real simple fix inside the unit to re adjust the contacts. Also, if
the gauge is to sensitive to the bottom of the tank, then that can be
adjusted also. Cleaning, adjusting and repairing any wires that have
broken or come loose does take a little while, but once I do it: well
I haven't had a complaint yet. Mine in 11004 is still working fine
after 20 years, but I did take it out and adjusted the contacts so
the low fuel level would come up. I'm not saying The Tank Zilla is
not worth what you pay for it, it's just my nature to try to repair
the old one.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/fuelsystems.shtml
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hi list,
> I have three questions:
> 1. At what point does the low fuel light come on?
> 2. Is the Rear defrose light suppose to come on when you turn on
the
> defroster?
> 3. When is the cooling fan fail light suppose to come on? When they
fail?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ryan- vin.#16301
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Moderator: I know you don't want to post virus
alerts, but I think the following should be known by
the group.
Group - I, too, received an "off-list" response from
<mdrig_at_dml_email.msn.com> to one of my postings. It had
an attachment which my aging MAC could not open.
(Thank God for aging MAC's.) He/she is obviously a
lurker with a problem. Any mail from him should be
ignored and, IMHO, he should be removed from the list.
In fact, I think we should have no "anonymous"
postings. If you can't sign your name, you shouldn't
be posting.
Just my 2¢
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/