Must-try: a pointillist-perfect take on traditional beef tartare from Yours Truly

In this era of underground supper clubs and artisanal food trucks, beef tartare, once the acquired taste of ­plutocrats and gourmands, seems positively ordinary. ­Jeffrey Claudio, the wizard-chef at the ambitious Ossing­ton restaurant Yours Truly, has revived the classic through deconstruction. He mixes crunchy puffed wheat berries and pickled anchovies into a hash of dry-aged Cumbrae’s strip loin, and polka-dots the round with a trio of sauces: a purée of capers and parsley, a sous-vide egg yolk reduction and a shallot-anchovy mayo. On top, he adds a sprinkle of tender larch needles that deliver a citrusy hit. Every forkful is fresh, light and a rare treat—the work of a chef with easy confidence. Prix fixe only. $45. 229 Ossington Ave., 416-533-2243.