30 Roses (30 perfume reviews)

This circle was started by a member called "30 Roses". In her generosity, she (and a few other folks) provided some perfume samples for the group to try. In fact, to be specific,we each get to sample thirty perfumes; each has a rose note or element to them.

Two boxes have been sent around. I got the first go at one of them. Members of the group each take turns sampling the scents and, if they like, writing up their impressions.

I have never been a huge rose fan, to be honest. Well, I mean, I love roses... they're beautiful! I don't really have the patience to grow roses. And I don't particularly want to smell like them. Or so I thought...

Here are my thoughts on the thirty (THIRTY!) perfumes I got to try:

Une Rose Chypree (Andy Tauer)
I could write poetry about this scent! Well, if I were poetic, I could. Instead, let me just explain my experience. First: a little goes a LONG way. This is potent stuff. It opened with what seemed almost like a candied rose, but with that not-so-spicy cinnamon-sugar we used to sprinkle on toast when I was little. I started to smell a citrus - I guessed orange, but I'm clearly not good with citrus notes yet. It was clementine. Bergamot, which I still can't pick out, is also listed.

I was starting to imagine roses in a bowl of Fruit Loops (sans milk), but somehow it wasn't childish or foody. Definitely a "green" aspect I couldn't guess (notes say Bourbon geranium - I guess that's it). About 10 minutes in, the rose opens up fully, but still has a slight tangerine tinge.

Twenty minutes later, I started picking up some slightly-spicy woody nuances, and a half an hour after that: cinnamon + rose + vetiver, all undulating. This has a definite vintage flavor and is neither bright nor brooding. It's amazingly grounded but light, somehow. I'd wear it anywhere, but with only a slight dab... Like I said: powerful! I'm going to get my own sample and decide if this is FBW. I bet it is. :)

NOTE: I stupidly dabbed this near a slight scratch on my hand, and it's itching like mad. If you have sensitive skin, you may want to consider that, though it's probably just me.

Edited to add: the drydown also features an amazing oakmoss and labdanum and vanilla and patchouli blend that make everything super creamy and velvety. I love this scent!

Voluer de rose (L'Artisan Parfumeur)
Patchiuli. Dry patchouli. On me a lot of the time, patchouli takes over all else. This is one of those times. It's a nice patchouli, though!

Bergamot and rose when wet, which then becomes a very linear caramel sugar-dipped rose. It's sweet, like a praline, but not teeth achingly so. I think that's because a faint, gentle tea note balances the sweetness. This is an excellent perfume and I will be getting a decant or sample and then, probably, a bottle.

Harrod's Rose (Bond No. 9)
Perfume + a rose. A blast of sparkling perfume and a rose. It really smelled amusingly like an effervescent generic-but-nice perfume and a big rose to me! It made me giggle. That was only for a moment, then it became big white florals (tuberose, mainly) with a huge white rose in the middle! Not too-much tuberose, not too-much rose. Well-balanced. Really nice, but it reminds me of something (not Fracas) that I think I have...maybe the heart of Carolina Herrera?

Attempt One: Opens with uber-quick aldehydes, and then totally disappears. WTH? Must be a musk I can't pick up. Hubby and eldest child can smell it. Eventually (5-8 minutes later) a soft violet-rose with a touch of powder lying over a base of a faint amber. Despite the very faint nature, I want to say I love this. I get more from sillage than up close; this is the first time I've encountered that as a fledgling purfumista-ita.

Second wearing: Aldehydes? Check.
Missing minutes? Nope. Straight into a rose-tinged, creamy violet and iris. There may be a pinch of patchouli in the base, but only a little. I'm going to have to get my own sample to experiment with. For one thing, I saw a review that suggested the rose is more prominent when sprayed instead of dabbed. Also, I think I love this...or maybe I want to love this. That's not the same thing. Something is bugging me about this. Maybe I just want it to be... more? Have some oomph it doesn't currently have? More research needed.

I was interested to smell this, since I enjoy the real deal smell. I was crushed to find Canabis Rose started with a metallic anisenote that briskly turned into a pile of sweet tobacco. That's it - linear for about an hour at which point I scrubbed. Tobacco notes give me migraines. I wasn't fast enough and the migraine is here. In case you were wondering, the throw is good - hubby asked me from across the room what I was wearing (and said "thank god!" when I washed it off).

I tried to put on another scent but the tobacco kept rebounding - that sh*t is tenacious! I took a hot and long shower to get it off. I never smelled rose, nor did I get the munchies

Coriandre (Jean Couturier)Gorgeous green opening, with oakmoss and vetiver and a floral blend taking over. The slight bite of coriander is perfection! This is pretty linear, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. Will seek out a vintage bottle, definitely.

Rose of Kali (Neil Morris)
The first thing I smelled was a pear + chocolate blend, which sounds a lot weirder than it really was. That was quick. The first main theme is a green, chocolatey rose blend. There's a hint of pear there, too. This is so strange, but smells amazing!

Fuchsia rose. Red rose. Lotsa big red rose.And then all of a sudden it pulls back and tingles with a raspberry note (which I would have noticed, but not been able to identify). Then it turned to plastic. :sadface:

American Beauty (Dawn Spencer Hurowitz)
Very sharp and chemical scent. I scrubbed. :(

I hate saying that. I haven't tried any other DSH scents, but aim to do so. This vial was marked "prototype" and I wonder if it has turned? I have to admit, I was so repelled I wouldn't even try this again! I'm sorry, DSH fans... I wanted to be wowed, I really did! I won't be holding this against the line, though, because everyone speaks sooo highly of it.

Edited to add a GIGANTIC retraction/correction! I took a look at Warum's comment below and chastised myself into trying American Beauty again. The opening was a little rough for me (somewhat mentholated and minty - not my favorite), but it wasn't whatever-the-hell-happened the first time! Slowly, a rose bloomed. And bloomed. And bloomed some more. A big vaseful or gorgeous roses. Gradually, a wonderfully woody base was exposed. And I do mean gradually. It's almost molecule by molecule, a subtle switch to a gorgeous base that, on me, is patchouli-dominant but not at all overbearing. Really, really nice. Warum, thanks for unintentionally guilting me into a re-try!

It's pretty much rose to start out (a pretty rose), though there was a tiny bite of something sharp and nasty for a moment at the beginning. I often pick up base notes then, so maybe it was the castoreum?A rose frozen in amber? I dabbed a bit on a second time, and really loved the ambery dry-down. Must try a decant and experience this more!

1000 (Patou)
I love this. Stunning. Woody and honeyed and lovely glowing florals. I am short on words with this one not because it's basic or simple, but because I think it's got so many facets and movements I don't dare talk about it when I only got such a brief sample period with it.

Paris Jardins Romantique (YSL)
Floral burst, slightly soapy. Roses and lilacs are prominent to my nose. Very Spring-y and pretty. Would be a lovely young woman's or wedding scent.

Lierre Rose (Parfums 06130)Ylang-jasmine bomb. An 80's scent like Sung meets Chinatown (Bond No. 9) minus the peach and patchouli (though I do believe there is some patch here, just not a ton). Pretty, strong, floral.

Leaves. Take some strongly scented leaves, toss in blender. That's the opening to this perfume. PS: pine needles are pine trees' leaves - don't forget one or two in your brew! You know... I really like this! Very green. It's pretty intense, though, so memo to self: go lightly.

Sa Majeste la Rose (Serge Lutens)
A pretty Moroccan rose. It starts strong, then becomes a slightly powdered, honeyed beauty on top of some pretty woods. Should I ever want a rose soliflore, this would be it.

So, am I a rose convert? Totally! Well, to a degree. I will give rose scents a chance, definitely, but I think I only need one good rose soliflore in my life. I'm not so into smelling like a giant rose. But rose in a blend? Absolutely

A few of the scents I got to try will definitely find their way into my collection. In fact, a few already have! I stumbled upon a mini Paris and a mini Coriandre while antiquing this past weekend! I'll still add large bottles when I encounter them, though.

Hey, I am the one who added the American Beauty prototype in the mix. Prototype means that it was not the final version. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz was having a sale of these in her Essence studio. She told that it is very similar to the final version.

I am sorry you did not like it, it's an unusual rose I think, but she has other roses as well.American Beauty is Rose #1, and she has roses #2,3, and 4. Her June bride features a rose as well.

Great blog, Jen! you went above and beyond with the reviews, which were a pleasure to read.

Just one comment about the poor longevity of AG Rose Absolue. This is because the sample included is not the Eau de Parfum, which is quite a bit stronger and longer lasting, but the newly released (2010) "Eau Parfumée", which is being sold in 100ml bottles.

Rose Splendide is also a 2010 Eau Parfumée release. The third 2010 Eau Parfumée is a lighter version of Quel Amour; however, the sample in this box is the stronger edp.)

I would particularly caution readers that if they see 100ml bottles of Rose Absolue edp on eBay, they should assume they are actually the weaker Eau Parfumée, and check with the seller before buying. The unfortunatel similarity between the two terms creates confusion among buyers and sellers alike.

bosnishmuslimaThanks so much for your comment and suggestions! I'm deligently taking notes. I admit to being wary of Amouage, though. It's not just the price point, but I'm also confused and overwhelmed by the website and broad selection. Homage is a great place to start, so thank you! Also, I keep hearing about Taif - must check it out.xoxo*jen

Warum, thanks for the kick in the pants! I ammended my notes above to reflect my second try with American Beauty. This time it turned quite lovely, though the opening is still not my favorite. Thanks again!xoxo,*jen

jen, you perfectly described what my experience with Citizen Queen was! That is so bizarre to me... that first you put it on, then BLAMO, then nothing... then... love? I spent more time with this one before making a decision about it than almost any other perfume in my collection. It's a little challenging, but in a really good way. I've since come to adore it, and, since I have the oil version in the purse bullet, I keep it close to hand at all times. A little whiff is guaranteed to make my day!

Ooooops, dear, do you believe that kick in the pants was NOT what I meant? Do I come across not as my normally funny, cheerful and reflective self? :) I did not intend to send you on a guilt trip, but I am glad that you retried. More than one fragrance I tried and got the wrong impression, then tried again and found it lovely! (this is my story of Sensuous -- first try: peppery bugspray, 2nd try -- liquid honey!)

I had similar experiences with American Beauty (found it harsh) and Citizen Queen (I think I am anosmic to something in there, as well as HYPERosmic to a woody amber material in it; I felt it was both harsh and not very rosy). We must have similar noses! (Also, Bond No. 9 Saks en Rose reminded me of Carolina Herrera -- I wonder if the Harrods version is basically the same?)

I'm happy to hear you like Neil Morris Rose of Kali! I just ordered a sample last night. I was unsure of the chocolate note, but Neil himself recommended it upon learning I was a rose lover. He has a new rose fragrance called "A Rose is a Rose" which I also ordered. It's not listed on his site yet, but if anyone is interested in buying a sample, you just order any "Vault" sample, and say you want "A Rose is a Rose" instead. (not affiliated, btw)

I love your blog. I look forward to catching up on your past entries and new posts to come.

Frida, we have some picks in common? Cool! That's always valdidating.:) I wonder if I smelled some of these now what I'd think, now that my nose is a bit more mature? I did end up with Citizen Queen and Une Rose Chypree in my stash, and am searching for a few of the others here. Fun sample pass! xoxo

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About Me

I am a mom who writes and paints faces - not usually at the same time, but if it paid well I wouldn't rule it out. I edit things to make sure them is written goodly. I am a champion napper. I am trying to appreciate the beauty in the world. You probably would hate me in the AM because I am a morning person. In fact, I'm generally positive; my cup is half full (hint: it's booze). My soapbox is domestic violence, specifically emotional, verbal, and financial abuse. Oh, and I like taking pictures of things.