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Training and fitness for Scotland winter mountaineering

Introduction

Winter mountaineering in Scotland is a wonderful pursuit that demands the integration of many factors: mountain skills, the weather, snow conditions, equipment confidence and, of course, fitness and mental strength.

This article will help you prepare physically and mentally for the demanding nature of Scotland winter mountaineering. It will give you a variety of options and considerations, as there is no such thing as ‘one size fits all’, and above all is realistic.

Read on if you: have young children and little spare time or energy; are nursing niggles or tweaks; work long hours in a busy job with a commute; have passion for the outdoors, but are precariously balancing the rest of life.

You might find I mention battling, fighting and overcoming a lot. This is because everyone underestimates winter when they start out, but don’t let that put you off – just go in with your eyes open.

Disclaimer

I do not pretend to be a medical expert, but have read around the subject, consulted professionals and learned from bitter experience. If you are at all concerned about your health or abilities, please refer to your local doctor.

Psychology

‘Mountaineering is a battle; it is draining psychically and psychologically, so train accordingly’ (Andy Kirkpatrick, ‘Binman Fitness’)

The total combination of these factors is not just physical – you have to be able to cope mentally as well.

Ask yourself, how bright and breezy are you when you are cold, damp, buffeted by the wind and tired of post-holing? The better your stamina, the less you will be thinking about how tired you are, and so more able to enjoy your environment!

I remember a climbing day in Glencoe when I first started winter climbing. Our objective was Church Door Buttress on Stob Coire Nam Beith (1150m), one of the highest venues in Glencoe.

We set off around 6am, carrying full winter climbing equipment on top of personal gear, walked over 5km to the start of the climb, ascending at least 800m, all of which took the best part of three hours. The summit was a further 350m of climbing and then we had to walk back to the accommodation.

I was exhausted by the time we got to the base of the climb (which was out of winter condition), and relieved to continue on the Grade I ground without the further exertions of technical climbing.

This might all sound a bit depressing! And it is of course best to be under no illusions that winter mountaineering is a battle: you need to be ready and resilient, physically and mentally and your training needs to match these demands.

But, it’s not all bad news: part of the attraction is overcoming these obstacles so that you can be well prepared to enjoy the unique Scottish environment: views, light and vistas to die for.

Approaches

Thankfully, there is no one optimum way to prepare, although you can definitely be smart about your training, factoring in time, energy, commitments and life.

Here are four key themes to consider when preparing:

1. Binman fitness

The term ‘Binman fitness’ was first coined by climber Andy Kirkpatrick in 2011. It refers to the non-conventional, unpredictable and uncompromising nature of mountaineering and how best to overcome that challenge.

The analogy is of a bin-man, -woman or -person who has to: ‘move fast, lifting, pushing, grabbing, grappling, climbing, bending and avoiding bin yuck every day (apart from weekends and Xmas).’

Bear in mind, this is not an hour’s aerobics class; this is repeated and sustained over a regular shift (so at least eight hours). This approach involves:

Training beyond what you expect to encounter, as conditions are inevitably worse than you anticipate

Focusing on the legs and stamina, as you are on your feet all day, with a load on your back and engaging upper body muscle groups

Avoiding the familiar: by keeping workouts varied, you gradually condition your mind to overcome the stress of the unknown as well as seeing more gain physically

2. Functional fitness

Don’t fool yourself that because you are putting on muscle or losing weight that you are fighting fit for winter mountaineering.

Consider the following maxim that I have found helpful: ‘Appearance is a consequence of fitness’.

Muscle gain and weight loss are undoubtedly good outcomes, but without underlying fitness they are merely superficial and mask fundamental deficiencies. In other words, be specific and objective about your training – will hours on a rowing machine or exercise bike really prepare you?

Consider why mountaineers and alpinists are generally speaking (ok, maybe not Andy Kirkpatrick) slim, athletic and sinewy. It goes back to the battling – regularly encountering 60mph wind (classified as storm force); the long summit approach slopes; the rubbing of your rucksack straps.

It’s the ability and conditioning to push yourself when it starts to hurt, to negotiate snow covered boulders, and overcome knee- or perhaps thigh-deep snow.

Wherever you can and however you can, seek to replicate the reality of what you expect to find.

3. Exercise in the margins

One thing that is unavoidable is that modern life is busier than ever with work, family and extra curricular activities.

The fittest I have ever been was when I was at school: I played a 2nd XV rugby match every Saturday; trained four times a week; and found time for competitive water polo twice a week on top of all of that.

Unsurprisingly, those days are long gone: one hour plus sessions have shrunk to 15 minutes; injuries have forced me to include stretching; weekends are more about family. In short, exercise has been pushed to the margins: unless I revert to being a pupil or student, that free time I once had is very unlikely to materialise.

An important milestone for me was the article, ‘Find exercise in life’s margins’. It’s essentially about accepting the inevitable in life and adapting to that change. Life changes, so why is it that you are so resistant to change?

Some key points here are:

Lower your expectations – if you aim too high initially or for a previous ideal, you will only succeed in repetitive failure

Write off one week a month – remember all those other things you are doing? They need to happen too. Anticipate and plan for them so they do not become obstructions

4. D.F.Y.U.

Not everyone is wired like a street fighter and each person has different motivations for winter mountaineering. However, one thing we all have in common is that we do not want to get injured.

In the words of Andy Kirkpatrick again, DFYU: don’t f**k yourself up.

Sustainable approaches to fitness and training are now well established and proven by sports science, so with a little bit of research you have no excuse to trash yourself!

In particular, alpinist Steve House and coach Scott Johnston have helped raise the bar among mountaineers, climbers and alpinists. In the words of House:

‘The human body has an amazing capacity to adapt to physical stress. But it does this best if that stress is applied in a constructive, consistent and progressive manner.’

By repeatedly stressing the body and allowing it to recover, the result is a higher level of fitness, if well coordinated.

Sounds easy, doesn’t it? Perhaps not, but it is helpful to be aware of these principles that cause the effect known as super-compensation.

The four core elements of not destroying yourself are thus:

Continuity: stay motivated and keep training regularly. Interruptions will happen, but do your best to minimise them

Graduality: be realistic about increasing the intensity and duration of training over time. An erratic approach (e.g. after New Year or illness) will lead to injury or poor results

Modulation: you cannot put your body in a permanent crisis state – otherwise known as overtraining. Regular rest will enable you to increase training loads with a long-term rise in fitness

Specificity: matching the demands of the activity in training will yield the best results

Although mountaineering is fairly general there are things you can focus on or avoid. House has the following advice to give:

‘To improve your endurance give priority to weight-bearing exercise. This means running or hiking, especially uphill, which are more specific.

Cycling is a great general exercise, but bikes are very efficient modes of transportation and this makes them less effective training tools. You do not have to support your full body weight, which greatly reduces the energy cost of the exercise and the muscle mass used to propel yourself. It also limits the range of motion, the coordination, balance, and variability of the footing required while climbing.

You should not rely solely on cycling as a training mode.

Swimming is another great exercise that has little carryover to alpine climbing. The prone position means that the heart has to work much less to pump the blood. The water also keeps the body cool, leaving more blood available for the working muscles.

If this is beginning to sound like running and hiking should be emphasized in your basic preparation time, then you are getting the picture.’

My top three fitness recommendations

1. Kettlebells

A kettlebell is a lump of iron with a handle that originated as a tool for farmers in Russia. It quickly became a means to measure strength, and is now a popular sport and training tool. Its beauty is that its centre of gravity is offset, unlike a dumb- or barbell, and it can be grasped in a variety of ways..

Core exercises include squatting (while holding the kettlebell), pressing (lifting it above the head), swinging and snatching (lifting it off the ground).

Because of the offset centre of gravity, any given movement requires attention to form and draws on core strength. The cumulative effect of all these elements is significant, particularly as you adapt to the constantly moving centre of gravity.

If wielded properly, a workout can take a matter of minutes, such is the intensity. This is ideal for fitting in during a lunch break or around other commitments.

Once you get into kettlebells, you can unlock flows and complexes which are multiple movements that flow naturally into one another. Technically you can do an unlimited number without putting the kettlebell down. This is a great way to replicate ‘binman fitness’.

2. Tabata

Tabata, which is a variation of high intensity interval training (HIIT), follows a simple premise: maximum effort followed by rest, and repeat.

It was developed by a Japanese scientist to train Olympic athletes in the 1990s and is brutally effective: 20 seconds work per exercise, 10 seconds rest, and then repeat. Typically, you will work through multiple sets of six exercises and if you are working hard you will be knackered after two or three sets.

As with kettlebells, tabata is beautifully simple. It requires minimum equipment, using mostly body weight exercises; a full-on full body workout can be achieved in 20 minutes and you can do it anywhere.

Be aware that you will need to build up your endurance gradually, so start slowly and without weights.

Focus on a single muscle group, e.g: a variety of squats, lunges, jumps and burpees (seriously painful)

Use compound bodyweight exercises, e.,g: burpee into pull up (burp-ups)

3. Circuit training

When I lived in Oxford I used to run around South Park – an amazing expanse of grass and trees overlooking the dreaming spires. The great thing about South Park was that it had exercise equipment at regular intervals around its perimeter, which allowed me to build up a decent workout.

A run at an average pace of the circuit of the park took about 10 minutes and I added in things like:

Press-ups

Sit ups

Star jumps

Step ups

Monkey bar traverse

Tricep dips

Pull ups

When this became a little familiar, I made up a pyramid loosely based on something I did in the Army:

10 x pull ups (run to next station)

10 x dips (run to next station)

10 x chin ups (run to first station)

9 x [and so on and so forth…]

The principle is: by all means go for a run, but see how you a mix it up and integrate exercises that make it more of a full body workout.

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, April 2015

“James’ passion for the Atlas and its people really comes across and adds to an itinerary that was organised and...

DF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, April 2015

2016-02-08T16:57:49+00:00

DF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, April 2015

“James’ passion for the Atlas and its people really comes across and adds to an itinerary that was organised and executed perfectly. This was a fantastic introduction to Morocco’s mountains and a great trip!”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

“Great trip, well organised and made that much more exciting and worthwhile given the extremely challenging environment we faced. James...

IM from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

2016-02-08T17:04:15+00:00

IM from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

“Great trip, well organised and made that much more exciting and worthwhile given the extremely challenging environment we faced. James went beyond the call to make our trip memorable for each of us so a BIG THANK YOU”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

"Had a wonderful memorable time. In the conditions which we were faced with, this was a great challenge. The success...

MJ from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

2016-02-08T17:05:35+00:00

MJ from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

"Had a wonderful memorable time. In the conditions which we were faced with, this was a great challenge. The success we enjoyed was in no small part made possible by the skill and encouragement which James provided and cheerful muscle power supplied by the porters to get our kit to the refuge."

High Atlas 4,000m Peaks Trip, Feb 2015

“This was a fantastic week to climb in a remoter area with straightforward and easy access to the mountains. Our...

PF from Scotland / High Atlas 4,000m Peaks Trip, Feb 2015

2016-02-08T17:06:45+00:00

PF from Scotland / High Atlas 4,000m Peaks Trip, Feb 2015

“This was a fantastic week to climb in a remoter area with straightforward and easy access to the mountains. Our guides James and Alex were professional and approachable making sure everyone got from the experience what they could. I’ve already started to read the guide book to see what else is available!”

Logistics Only Package Trip, Feb 2015

“A really well organised trip which made life very simple for us all, and the pre arrival advice was helpful...

AS from UK / Logistics Only Package Trip, Feb 2015

2016-02-08T17:09:20+00:00

AS from UK / Logistics Only Package Trip, Feb 2015

“A really well organised trip which made life very simple for us all, and the pre arrival advice was helpful to. Totally worth the (modest) fees charged for a hassle free week. Would thoroughly recommend you guys to others.”

High Atlas Alpine Ridge Trip, June 2014

“I had a fantastic time climbing alpine ridges in the Toubkal massif. From the amazing logistics help to the delicious...

FD from the USA / High Atlas Alpine Ridge Trip, June 2014

2016-02-08T17:14:35+00:00

FD from the USA / High Atlas Alpine Ridge Trip, June 2014

“I had a fantastic time climbing alpine ridges in the Toubkal massif. From the amazing logistics help to the delicious prepared food at the hut, everything was in place to make the most of my short time in the area and get as much climbing in as possible. Climbing with James was a treat, and was a perfect mix of professionalism and friendliness. I was able to use and expand my skill set under a watchful friendly eye, and overall had a tremendous experience with some fantastic people.”

Mgoun Winter Ascent Trip, April 2014

“The booking form was straightforward and easy to complete and the attached documents concerning kit were useful to read when...

IR from Scotland / Mgoun Winter Ascent Trip, April 2014

2016-02-08T17:15:55+00:00

IR from Scotland / Mgoun Winter Ascent Trip, April 2014

“The booking form was straightforward and easy to complete and the attached documents concerning kit were useful to read when packing. We had a fantastic and successful summit day, James was an excellent guide, looked after us well and was good company throughout. We owe the overall success of this trip to him, a big thanks!”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2014

“Thanks for the experience, the climb, the chat and the beauty of your town and mountains. I will definitely be...

MA from Kuwait / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2014

2016-02-08T17:16:59+00:00

MA from Kuwait / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2014

“Thanks for the experience, the climb, the chat and the beauty of your town and mountains. I will definitely be on the lookout for more adventure with you guys… Give my thanks to Miriam as well, and to Mohammed for such a great job.”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2014

“Miriam was amazingly helpful. Considering we booked relatively last minute she answered my (many) questions. On the trip James kept...

KS from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2014

2016-02-08T17:18:23+00:00

KS from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2014

“Miriam was amazingly helpful. Considering we booked relatively last minute she answered my (many) questions. On the trip James kept us up to date with the weather conditions which meant we always felt confident in his decisions. James was brilliant and kept reassuring us when we were using new skills. He was super patient when I was a bit apprehensive on the decent too. He also kept us up to date with the weather conditions.”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2013

“Thank you so much for such a great trip. It was really good to have you and the other guys...

AB from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2013

2016-02-08T17:19:37+00:00

AB from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2013

“Thank you so much for such a great trip. It was really good to have you and the other guys with us. I have been waiting to go on such a trip with the boys for a while and it really couldn’t have worked out better…perfect duration, great location and hard enough to give them (and me) a real sense of achievement. The company also helped to make it really memorable. Hopefully it’s given them the taste for it!”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“I just wanted to send you a quick note to say thank you for all your help in organising our...

AF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

2016-02-08T17:20:48+00:00

AF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“I just wanted to send you a quick note to say thank you for all your help in organising our trip in Morocco last week, we all had a brilliant time and it left us itching to want to go back! Special thanks must go to James for providing the perfect mix of safety and fun, for which we were all very grateful.”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“A quick word to say that we’ve been very happy with our trip to Toubkal. Great experience and great work...

HC from France / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

2016-02-08T17:22:05+00:00

HC from France / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“A quick word to say that we’ve been very happy with our trip to Toubkal. Great experience and great work from James who’s done a brilliant guiding job! Please convey our good wishes to him and the whole crew (Mohammed, with whom we walked down to Imlil was very kind and the cook did a splendid job at this altitude!). Good luck to you guys!”

Winter Alpine Ridges

"Nothing but good things to say. Again I feel like James did a great job driving this experience for Mike...

ZR from Texas / Custom Winter Climbing Trip, March 2016

2016-04-07T09:08:37+00:00

ZR from Texas / Custom Winter Climbing Trip, March 2016

"Nothing but good things to say. Again I feel like James did a great job driving this experience for Mike and I, and I learned tons of new things that I hope to implement as soon as possible! The entire staff was very friendly and accommodating. But obviously the main goal of the trip was to get into the mountains and do some climbing and not kill ourselves in the process. We were able to accomplish this, almost exclusively because of the help of James and the mountain people, despite not great weather conditions most days! So thank you very much for the great experience!"