Don't forget Will....we all have to start somewhere. I am glad that you run solo laps on a climb that I MIGHT find difficult to lead. Maybe one day i'll have your courage for living on the edge. Maybe I won't. However, if I do, I will make sure I don't ridicule other people for setting goals that to me might seem easy.

From a brief view of your profile it seems like you have loads of experience and know what you are doing. I am sure that didn't happen overnight. Maybe I will see you around and if you want to give me a belay, cool. If instead you want to be a dick about it. Then thats cool too.

Can I really? It would be soooo bitchin to hold your rope while you "sac up" to fire this death defying 5.7 handcrack. That would be so splitter, brah. I'll start training and get my gri-gri skills in order, don't want to hose your clips.

Yep, I'm a jerk..not just on the intardwebz, but in person too. I don't care if you epic on 5.2 or solo 5.16c, the idea that anyone is chomping at the bit to belay, never mind on a route where someone is at their limit and it could turn into an hour long dog and pony show, is funny to me. Belaying sucks, it's a job not a privilege.

You'd get the same reply from me if you'd said "I'm going to try to onsight the Dihedral Wall, let me know if you want to come out and give me a belay"

I belay people on their projects semi-often, as a means to an end so they will return the favor and/or because we're attempting the same route. Maybe that's what you meant and I read you wrong, but it sounded like "if you want to see me slay this dragon, let me know so you can belay"

. Maybe that's what you meant and I read you wrong, but it sounded like "if you want to see me slay this dragon, let me know so you can belay".

Well thats not how I meant it. I guess it came off as obnoxious to you and you felt the need to make a condescending remark based on your perception of my comment. I will choose my words more carefully next time so as not to offend anyone. Cheers...and don't be so quick to be a dick to someone you never met because of a two sentence internet post.

If you Will, or anyone else reading this are looking for a competent belayer for a project YOU are working on between March 2-March 11 feel free to drop me a line. my number is 860-869-4606

The big flexing flake on the right hand side of the crack is being reinforced with epoxy today. Please respect the closure so the glue can cure fully before any more ascents. I think the 3rd bolt is also being replaced during this time. No worries, DC will be better than ever once this work is completed.

All is well on DC. No bolts, no body bags, no memorials. Was there yesterday. People lining up and walking up the route. I was disappointed to see the route with so much heated discussion was just another route with a little runout at the bottom. Don't get on this route if you are not solid at the grade. There are 1000 other routes nearby at this grade.

PSA: DOUBLE CROSS IS CLOSED UNTIL 3/19/11 The big flexing flake on the right hand side of the crack is being reinforced with epoxy today. Please respect the closure so the glue can cure fully before any more ascents. I think the 3rd bolt is also being replaced during this time. No worries, DC will be better than ever once this work is completed.

All is well on DC. No bolts, no body bags, no memorials. Was there yesterday. People lining up and walking up the route. I was disappointed to see the route with so much heated discussion was just another route with a little runout at the bottom. Don't get on this route if you are not solid at the grade. There are 1000 other routes nearby at this grade.

How was the flake? That thing has been getting really lose over the last couple of seasons. Glad someone finally stepped up and did something about it. But was glue sufficient to make the flake stable enough to place gear behind? Being able to get a good solid piece in there would save a lot of lives. Perhaps if you put a carriage bolt or two through the flake it'd be solid enough to place a cam behind?

How was the flake? That thing has been getting really lose over the last couple of seasons. Glad someone finally stepped up and did something about it. But was glue sufficient to make the flake stable enough to place gear behind? Being able to get a good solid piece in there would save a lot of lives. Perhaps if you put a carriage bolt or two through the flake it'd be solid enough to place a cam behind?

Maybe add a little bit of a lip on the flake with another bolt so there would be a nut placement instead? That would put less outward force on the flake.

Why? What makes this 5.7 "harder, wierder, lamer, crazier" than the FAMOUS 5.7+ Double Cross?

Bussonier is actually 5.6, and should be a low rung on the "road to DoubleCross" ladder. The fall is more livable than the certain death outcome of DC, and the location is much less of a show stopper for budding n00bs to hang, scream, quake and rip at their leisure. A Tricam might be useful at the crux.

Bussonier is actually 5.6, and should be a low rung on the "road to DoubleCross" ladder. The fall is more livable than the certain death outcome of DC, and the location is much less of a show stopper for budding n00bs to hang, scream, quake and rip at their leisure. A Tricam might be useful at the crux.

Just got back from J-Tree a couple weeks ago. Did climb Double Cross. Is anyone really considering adding a bolt to this? Because I think they should. I almost peed my pants trying to climb those first bouldery twenty feet to that flaring crack. Then for the life of me I couldn't find a single hold on the face to use. The putrid pile of bodies at the bottom should have been a clear indicator but it's just so classic I couldn't help myself. The sand bagging and ego have to stop though. 5.7, how about 5.10d. Protection and grades have to keep up with modern times. That thing is a lawsuit waiting to happen.

By the way, I don't know where the wind machine is located, I didn't find it while out getting blown off Saddle Rock while trying to lead Walk on the Mild Side, but could you turn it off please. I'm still digging sand out of my ass crack.

Double cross does not need a bolt. There is a perfect number 3 camalot placement down and right of the crux. People that do not notice this placement should not climb double cross. Also, right at the crack of the crux there is another perfect cam placement. Double cross is a very easy climb...if you know how to crack climb that is. Face climbers will find the hand jam at the crux difficult. Also people with small hands may find the crux difficult, yet, they should still know how to safely protect the climb if they are going to risk leading it. Joshua tree is not a sport climbing crag. There are not bolts every 6 feet on the climbs. Part of what makes trad climbing fun and rewarding is the dangers and risks you take and conquering those risks. You have to be smart when you climb and know your limitations. You need to know when to not climb any higher because you can't find a gear placement. If someone adds a bolt to double cross, someone else will chop it. Not me, but it will happen. And instead of the climb being safer, it will just be uglier. Maybe instead of placing a bolt to make up for lack of climbing experience, someone should create a billboard in the hidden valley campground at the start of the trail to double cross warning about the dangers and specifying the beta for the gear placement.

Also, they way to do the route safely is to start on the right, climb up, place the number 3, and then traverse over to the crack, not climb the route straight up!

Is this so when the obviously competent noob blows it before reaching the crack they swing into those flakes off to the right instead of a mostly clean fall to the ground that could easily be protected with a pad? I climbed it straight up, don't do what I did, that's straight up crazy!