Around India in 14 days

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How much of India can you do in two weeks? A lot, if you have expert advice and a palace to stay in at the end of the day

On day three of our trip to India, we are being driven along what might almost be a particularly neglected, potholed and dust-filled English country lane.

Only this is the road to Bharatpur, and the world and his wife – as well as his jalopy, his rickshaw and possibly his camel – are heading along it, bumping over ruts and stones, competing for space and struggling to see the way forward in the failing light and the thick, yellowish haze.

We’re in the back of a comfy, air-conditioned car, my boyfriend Jorge and I. But we’re holding hands and occasionally