Description

5.6 crux is 20 ft from the ground. The rest is 5.2 or less. Others have averaged this and rated it 5.4. HISTORY: this route is a composite of work by several people including myself in 1998 when I replaced and added some bolts. The original 1/4 inch rusty bolts are still at the top. someone recently added a bolt to the crux for some reason. The original line had 80-100 ft runouts. Now the longest is about 40 feet but the climbing is 5.0 on that bit. I took the liberty of naming it Goldline in honor of the cheap nylon climbing ropes we uses in the 1970s.

Someone adding bolts to existing routes???? Okay, whatever. Goldline could certainly use a few replacements and an addition here and there. Put one in the middle of the 30 ft run-out to the first belay. Replace that first rusty bolt up the trough from the midway belay. Not much more needed though. Perhaps upgrade belay.

Much new route potential to the right of Goldline if anyone feels like drilling.

The hardware at the 1st belay (sketchy 3/8" allen key bolt w/ homemade hanger) was upgraded in January 2011. There is currently one bolt at the crux of "Goldline" and the holes where the chicken bolts were have been patched. The 1st bolt on P2 has been replaced with a new 3/8" X 4" Powers 5-piece bolt (06-15-11). "Goldline" (5.6) P1 - 5 bolts & P2 - 5 bolts.

The second bolt has a SMC hanger, generally frowned upon by people installing modern bolts. The third bolt is completely surrounded by hollow rock and should be relocated. Because my belayer wasn't going to climb, I clipped the first pair of anchor bolts at 100 feet and kept going. At 200 feet, I was at least 100 feet from the top, so I traversed to a pair of bolts. I rapped and cleaned.

All bolts on this kind of rock should be half-inch thick and five inches long. All of the bolts I saw on this route are merely 3/8s. Mike Draper's new routes on the other side of the rock (Lower East Side) are 1/2 X 5 inches. That's the minimum that everyone should be installing at this place, unless you can place a bolt in a dense, fine-grained cobble that is of sufficient size and is solidly embedded.