Originally from Lyons, onion soup was made popular during the 19th Century by Parisian market workers in Les Halles. Traditionally served after a nuit blanche (sleepless night) because of its supposed ability to quickly dissipate the effects of alcohol, it is an invigorating and revitalising soup.

On my first visit to Bangkok, it was a hot and sticky night when we arrived and this was the dish we tucked into after wandering the streets. The rather interesting addition, to what would otherwise be an ordinary beef dish, is the toasted ground rice, which adds both texture and a surprisingly smoky, nutty flavour. The original dish doesn’t feature the extra leaves, but I think it makes a wonderful healthy salad.