Flasher works great, the 1156 LED's I bought are too bright for the running light but super awesome the rear turns. I'm also replacing the 1157's I had laying around with something brighter as well as all 18 of the 2.1W 5mm wedge bulbs in the CHMSL. 194 wedges are brighter than stock for the rear corners. Hatch area festoon is very nice, lights up the whole area. Front 1157 turns are great too. I'll have to mess with the foglight switch to get them to come on w/out the headlamps, but they work, not sure how bright they are though! I have pictures on my phone but I'm not going to have time to upload tonight.

I have the D and P side map lights to swap yet, I have one in the housing but not in the car yet. Also have to do the rear map light, I think it is a festoon as well.

Eventually I'll replace all the IC bulbs, but I have a whole different "white" IC to install at some point (along with the matching gauge pod). So, now I wait for the e-codes to show up, got tracking info but it hasn't been scanned/entered into FedEx yet. The H4 LED's look nice, the driver is actually pretty small, may fit inside the housing w/out too much issue other than anchoring it.

Also, the 80lbf gas spring IS too stiff (gut, you were right), it's pushing the tensioner pulley such that the polyrib belt has a groove in it from the back side of the pulley. I have a 50lbf gas spring that will be here today, but I am not certain I will be able to get it installed until this weekend. I did order one slightly shorter so I have less to cut off and re-thread. The 80lbf spring was a mfer to get installed, so hopefully the 50lbf is much less so...

Can you share your LED vendor details and part numbers.Also how well do these LEDs cooperate with the auto check build out warnings?I relayed my headlights last year but never got around to addressing the bulb out warning.

They do not cooperate with the autocheck, unfortunately. I dealt with the same with my relayed H1/H1's in my other CQ for years. I couldn't bring myself to cut those up to fit them in this CQ, they are pretty clean still even with ~40k miles on them.

I will get a list of what lights I'm using once they are all in and working. All were purchased on Amazon (I love Prime!).

Two pairs of exterior lights to go. Depos came in, forgot they have a 194 wedge city light. Also, the replacement 1157 rear brake/turn/running lights were supposed to be red but came in amber. Sending those back and got a new set coming.

On a quick test, the H4 LED's are pretty darn bright...I need to aim them, hopefully they don't scatter. The driver totally fits inside the housing and the bulb I picked has lots of room behind the cooling fan, so no need to leave the cover off (at least for now). Looking good so far.

I have not gotten to the three map lights yet. If it doesn't rain until later tonight, I'll work on aiming and swapping the map lights. Then a list of part numbers/manufacturers and pictures (I've taken several during the process).

I understand the heat thing, same thing happens to trucks with rear LED tails, I've been dealing with that for 10-15 years on the body-builder side of things. Not overly concerned about it, honestly but thank you (seriously). This is not a daily driver, and will more than likely be parked in the winter months unless I get another set of 16"+ wheels to fit over the brakes, and then mount snow tires. I have a his/her set of Q7's for daily driving...

I was after this more for the amp-draw reduction as a whole, and secondarily to improve the light quality around town.

I did actually not need the 194 white LED's for the headlamps, as the lamp plugs currently on the car are of the 3-wire variety and not the 4-wire like I have on 000292. So I cannot pick-up the marker/running light circuit at the current time. All LED's are working great, three domes swapped over, turn/stop now brighter, etc.

The fog lights are surprisingly bright for no voltage drivers, which with no drivers means they are also cheaper at around $20-25 for the pair versus around $60 for the H3's with voltage drivers. The headlamps are still the old USDOT units from a Cabrio with standard bulbs. They work fine, but I have been spoiled by the H1/H1 units in 00292 and the actually very good USDOT HID/adaptives in the Q7's.

The CHMSL assembly needs the bulb holes drilled out for the LED's to fit through, and even then it took some time to get every LED lined up. The part that attaches to the glass actually just slides off and you can drill and fit off the car.

All sourced from Amazon, quantities shown. Packages came in 2x, 5x and 10x depending on the piece. Prices were $5 to $50, again depending on the piece. If you can just buy what is on my list in those quantities (you can't, you will end up with extras), you will spend $150+. But really, you'll spend more like $200 to get everything.

Okay, I've only driven at night once since doing the headlamps. Amp/voltage seems fine now even with all the lights on, fan(s) on and PS pump running, even at idle. The interior is very nicely lit with the front map lights and rear single dome light, super nice.

But...The LED's have an odd pattern. Dead spot, you can see the dim area part way up the tree. Also, these throw a LOT of light in the low beam position, but seemingly lots less in high. I also can't get these headlamps to aim worth a darn. I turned the adjusters a lot and didn't get much movement. Makes me think I should have just sucked it up and mod'd my H1/H1 projectors to fit around the radiator. But, I'd probably spend a lot more time, and possibly even more money, finding a LED unit that has a more continuous output, instead of chips in only certain areas.

I felt increasingly nervous driving on the old 205/60-15 tires, so I put my set of brand new old stock Hankook autocross tires on (stored inside, still stickered), which are on some Konig black/machined wheels. I don't remember 225/50-16's rubbing anywhere, but it's been a lot of years since I ran them on a stock suspension (and then only for a short while until the suspension was all replaced) so we'll see. I also almost forgot how slippery dot-r rubber is when cold on a cold street. About did a doughnut in my cul-de-sac in 2nd gear, at 1200rpm, with 40% throttle. LOL torque.

Also, when looking at the car from the side, it appears that the front subframe is shifted aft, and the rear subframe is shifted forward. I'll have to measure the wheelbase to confirm.

I'm going to work on fitting a V6 power steering pump. Looks like the 93-95 90 has a 100 bar pump which matches the CQ rack, and I have located one used, and many rebuilt for a decent price. I have all sorts of metal working/cutting/grinding tools at home and the shop guys at work (at least half are fabricators after all) have more than I do. Sure looks like there will be interference of the two hydraulic fittings with the V8 bracket, but the pump itself has the same bolt pattern (front two bolts holes are at 75mm between the two different ZF pumps). Some may not care about the heavy steering afforded by the MR2 electric setup, but I do, especially for autocross.

You're welcome to any of the original ps pump stuff. I think I still have the ABH pump I used with the bomb part disabled but it was noisy as hell. I may still have some of the original hoses if I didn't give them to you already. Also, I bought a bracket for the ABH to hold s smaller ps pump but it didn't align quite right. If I can find that it's yours too.

The ABH pump is 150 bar, like the 5k pump and PT pump I have here. The B4-90 pump is 100 bar like the CQ's pump, but it has a long snout. The later B5 pump is shorter, but it looked like it wouldn't work (not mount up). I thought about pulling the one from my '98 A4 that's dead (sludge and now no coolant?!) and trying to make that work, as it is likely 100 bar as well. But, that would require yanking the A4 from it's hole and putting the nose in "service position". The C4-V6 pump is 120 bar, if anyone was wondering. Otherwise identical to the B4-90 pump...

For now, I'll use hoses from 000292, the big thing was getting the bracket, so thank you Ben! I have a B4 pump on it's way, for now I'll use the C4 to mock up with on the PT engine that is on a stand in my garage.

I think I'm going to have to either make a completely customer mount, or try and lower the pressure on the more cylindrical style ZF pumps I have (and disable the brake side). The square B4/C4 style ZF pump is too large to fit inside the PT/ABH mount. However, the pulley placement is correct when using the PT/ABH pulley.

Good news...ZF vane pump from a B4-90 with pulley from a V6 and the ABZ bracket Ben sent up to me has proper alignment when installed on the PT engine (same as the ABH in the car). Bad news, AC compressor mounts are too far forward to use the PT/ABH AC compressor. So, I may try to look for an ABZ compressor (or if someone has one and could measure from the forward mounts to the back face of the pulley, I'd be able to tell pretty easily). If I'm doing all of this messing around, I'd like to get the AC working...

Also pulled the Stebro off 000292. What a PITA. The rear subframe is pretty crusty, which is unfortunate. A few of the fuel lines are bad, and a few of the brake lines as well. But otherwise it is pretty solid under there. I still think I'm going to get all the good parts switched over from the convert to 00292, it is just still so much cleaner...The convert would be a great starting point for a track car. Which is not what I was going for.