Moonshine in the 10 000 Islands

Take a look at the panoramic above and imagine hacking out a small clearing in the above mangrove forest to live in and operate a clandestine moonshine still. This is what Totch Brown’s father John Brown did during the Great Depression to make ends meet during those difficult times. His life story is fascinating, and I couldn’t possibly do it justice here, suffice to say I will mention that you should read Totch: A Life in the Everglades by Loren G. Brown. In this post I will offer you a photo-journey-essay of a quest to find this “lost” bit of old Everglades history.

In October of 2011, I was afforded the opportunity to paddle and find this site in the aptly named “Liquor Still Bay”, so I jumped at the chance to explore a colorful bit of the old time Everglades! The plan was to paddle to the find the still, check it out, and continue on to our campsite. Next day return via a different route, for a rough total of about 42 miles or as it would turn out to be.

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Approximate route taken over 2 days totaled up about 42 miles of paddling!

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Since we were going to find the remnants of an illegal liquor still, I felt it was good form to fly the colors and represent! 😉

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The Banana Boat flying the colors at the launch in Everglades City.

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First stop at the Lopez River Campsite.

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Ted taking a “break” at the Lopez River Campsite.

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To help preserve the integrity of this site, I am purposely vague with our route and omitting any directions – sorry!

“Shine on you crazy Outlaws”Available from Kayakfari ART Photography. CLICK to enter a time portal into the old Everglades!ART at Liquor Still Bay – hidden history in the Everglades.

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With the Liquor Still Bay mission accomplished, we headed out into the Gulf on a slack tide. The paddling was easy and serene here, and not at all what the Gulf waters had in store for us!

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Heading out to the Gulf of Mexico on the Huston River.

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Once out in the Gulf, winds had picked up as our first “big” fall cold front had moved in over the area, kicking up 3 -5 ft seas. As it was getting late, and we had already paddled 20 miles, we elected to surf down-weather towards Mormon Key only a couple of miles south. About 20 minutes later we were beaching the boats and enjoying the refreshing 15-20 knot NW winds and sunset!

ART of Darkness – Camping with the Stars! Part II“It’s full of Stars!”

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The next morning was very comfortable and clear, winds had shifted to the N-NE and dropped considerably. One cool thing about Mormon Key is that it is completely covered in shells, from pulverized microscopic pieces (i.e. “sand”) to foot-long pieces and giant clams. The ancient Calusa ate well, I think!

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Mormon Key beach is made of all shells, of all sizes!

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On a different note, as beautiful as it is, this beach has been overtaken by sandspurs (“sticklers”), like the one’s you’ve painfully stepped on at the beach. Sadly I don’t think you can find a spot that isn’t covered with them here! They will poke through your tent floor, and into your mattress and/or private parts, and you will need three layers of tarps to prevent this. Even after you think you’ve got rid of them all, you will find even MORE! My final surprise was a few that managed to attach themselves to the underside of my sprayskirt as I went in to launch my kayak!

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Sea Grape buds about to open on the beach at Mormon Key.

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Into one of these flowers!

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Prickly Pear Cactus growing on Mormon Key shell beach.

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Finally, a delightful 20 mile open water paddle to Everglades City lays ahead! 🙂

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Launching back out over all the shells on Mormon Key beach.

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Last stop on the Rabbit Key sandbar in the 10k basin.

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Continue with more paddling and camping adventures from the Ten Thousand Islands:

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DISCLAIMER:: The maps and images on this site are not intended for navigation, I am not a guide; use any and all information at your own risk! Your mileage may vary .. so use good judgement before venturing out!