Because of the sea the climate is softer than one may expect given the latitude (67°09′). Winter, however, is long, from the beginning of November till well into April.

It is often wet and humid, and weather may change quickly. That’s the key to preparing for trips here: WEATHER CHANGES SUDDENLY AND IN A WIDE RANGE.

The climate is just perfect for mosquitoes, gnats, and horse flies. Don’t underestimate this issue when planning hiking or rafting. In June 2012 I experienced a mosquito attack that made run to safety. And then the locals laughed me off saying I haven’t seen nothing yet, and related their stories how they got blinded by insects while negotiating their way around rocks in river rapids.

I recall an old book that quoted a local reindeer herder saying that lack of insects is a key feature of heaven.

Spring’s traditional misadventure in the form of an unsceduled trip to the White Sea distances has apparently taken place today, with two kids taking off on an ice floe. Apparently it all ended well but I have no details.

A rumour is going around that, should the sky be clear, we stand a good chance of seeing northern lights around Kandalaksha from now till Jan. 6 2017.

Warning: we are into a cold spell now, with temperatures around minus 20C.

Good news: the car is back in circulation after a major repair job. No blizzard inside the cabin, and it is much quieter now than it was before, making conversation while driving easy. Also it is kept heated when parked, so no problem starting despite the cold. I and the car are available for hire at discount off-season rates!

Yesterday I was dragged out to Luvenga by my mate Alexandra, who totally disregarded my profound desire to spend Jan. 1 in coach-glued lethargy, and was forced to observe the first true sunrise of the year.

Today, October 26 2016, we had this fall’s first snow. Much later than in past years. On this excuse I was dragged out to the Monastery Cape and told to stop whining about local wet and cold climate, or else sit in the warm car and wait. I chose to fake cheerfulness.