01 October 2007

So Much Things To Say

No, I've not lost my command of the English language. The title of this post is the title of a Bob Marley song. It's the first thing that came to mind when I sat down to write.

First, the reality show discussion was merely that. We discussed our lives with respect to surfing. The woman asking the questions knew nothing about surfing and was more than a little disappointed when she found out that the black surfers at the table rarely saw one another in the water. In fact, we all agreed that we don't see many other black folks in the water on a regular basis. The cool thing about this little get together was hearing everyone's story. It's not like we're all good friends or anything. I see most of these people a few times a year, if that. I don't know any of them well. I enjoyed hearing about what brought the others to surfing. Will the reality show happen? I don't really care. I didn't go there hoping to become a reality star. I went out of curiosity.

Second, my comfort level on the shorter board increases with each session. It's too bad I've yet to get this board into a good wave. Now that I think about it, I've only ever taken the board out to the home break. That place rarely rises to the level of "good". I think we all still surf there because of its convenience and mellow vibe. I don't expect to see anyone but the locals/regulars when I surf there. So wasn't I surprised to see Jeffery standing before me in the parking lot as I got ready for the session. "What are you doing here?!?" I think I was yelling at him. That's how surprised I was to see him, the man who prefers El Porto and Malibu. Convenience had brought him there too. He was, in fact, getting out of the water, but went back in to surf with me a bit. There was no shape to the waves. I spent more time catching up with Jeff than I did surfing. I did catch a few though. In the midst of the session, I had a slight epiphany. I finally realized that the best place for me to position myself on the board while I'm paddling results in my feet still being halfway on the board. In the past, my feet were hanging off the back of the board. But with even a little of my feet on the board, I was able to tweak my pop-up and use my toes to launch myself . . . which is just what I do on the longboard. Eureka!!!

7 Comments:

I sincerely hope you stick it out with this shorter board and get it in to some waves with good shoulders so you can really open it up.

I tried Jeff's two Tyler longboards the other day at Porto. Eek! So glad I took the shortboard route. All I could do was point and go. Turning was an immediate trip to the trough, followed by a swim to catch the board (leashless...can you believe that!!).

This shorter board is a keeper. It's exactly what I wanted and needed. You'll be seeing me on it. I plan to spend the winter surfing it (except when I make a trip to San O or another break where I'd want my longboard). I may even give it a shot at Malibu . . . if I'm with Jeff.

Dude, that's why I like longboards. For some reason, I feel empowered when I surf them. I'm not tiny, but I'm not big either. Being able to whip a longboard around and make it do my bidding is more satisfying to me than hitting the lip or anything else I'd try to do on a shortboard.

and was more than a little disappointed when she found out that the black surfers at the table rarely saw one another in the water

This kills me. What was she expecting? That there was some sort of solidarity club where you all pack together? That because you're all black and in water that you must be friends? Was she off to chat up Mexicans who snowboard in Tahoe next? It kinda reminds me of when a straight person has a gay friend and thinks that they'd automatically be a match made in heaven for this other person they know who is also gay.

It's not always the case that there's some ignorant thing driving these wtf ideas, but yeah, this all smacks of something. I'm glad you don't seem to see it that way however; it sounds like you took the high road and took away the positive parts...digging on everybody's story. That's cool. :)

Keep sticking with the shortboard! It's so fun! But if you can get comfy enough to popup without the toe-assist, you'll thank yourself later when you want to easily switch around on smaller boards, or when you are in waves that are too steep/fast/tricky to handle that extra split-second toe pressure on the back. I did this by practicing on the floor at home...20 good ones a night, no toes.

Sharkbait, I don't have a Bonzer at this point. That's the next board on my list of boards to check out.

As for my pop-up, I can work it without the toes. But it's nice to know the toes are there as a back-up. I'm loving my shorter board. I won't be getting off of it any time soon. That's a promise.

Hey, girl! I think I'm going to get some new ink soon! I've been thinking about it. Now I'm about to set up an appointment. I was thinking shoulder blade. Now I'm thinking ribs/back and lower back. Stop me before this thing gets any bigger!!

I've been enjoying these posts that relate to race and board choices. Can't help but see the throughlines here. Best of all, your attitude seems to be the key; sounds like you're taking the positives from each situation. I enjoy hearing your perspectives on all of this.