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How your engine running. Have it squared away. As far for the tie rods, replace the whole tie rod assemblies for both side, if have the funds, also get new boots and and clamps too. If inner rod are good, no play, you make be lucky just remove the outer with heat and pb-blaster. And use some anti-seized in new tie rods ends. Adjustable wrench should the trick, 36mm is the ideal wrench, last time remember.

To remove the inner tie rods you need a 30mm wrench IRC and the help of many Gods.
Or a special tool designed to do the job that you can rent for free at advance auto parts. I did one side 2 nights ago and I am doing the other side tomorrow or the night after tomorrow. I can post pics of the tool if you want. I did modified it a hair, but it did the job relatively easy and free.
They also rent the outer tie rod removers, which work pretty well if you have tie rods that you are trying not to destroy.

To remove the inner tie rods you need a 30mm wrench IRC and the help of many Gods.
Or a special tool designed to do the job that you can rent for free at advance auto parts. I did one side 2 nights ago and I am doing the other side tomorrow or the night after tomorrow. I can post pics of the tool if you want. I did modified it a hair, but it did the job relatively easy and free.
They also rent the outer tie rod removers, which work pretty well if you have tie rods that you are trying not to destroy.

Just beware there are a couple of different tools and not all carry the one that works for VW. The main reason being that the VW has a ball on the inner and then 2 Flat Sides (or 6 depending on the make of rod). So, you need the tool that has the little U shaped Fork (crows foot) inserts that you slide onto the flats and then the tool that slips over the whole rod and then around that insert.

The ones that look like a socket on a long tube with no inserts, will not work. You need the one with the inserts like the Lislie. http://...Lislie_tool...

Here is a good thread that I just came across but it does not show the tool in detail, but eludes to what I described above.

The Bentley says you can ruin the racks gears by wrenching on it w/o clamping the shaft in a vice and this is true. So, if you have a stubborn one, then you need to either carefully put an adj wrench on the flat of the rack shaft to counter clamp it, or a wrench on the opposite side inner joint to try and break it loose. For final tightening, I like to have a wrench on both sides and crank on them both so that it does not ruin the gears in the rack.

In short, it can be a fairly simple job, but it can also be a super suck fest if a lot of loctite was used previously (which btw you are suppose to use when you install the new ones). Clean the threads first then use loctite.

I should mention that I have done this job many times each with it's own trials and tribulations I never had the right tool for various reasons, but this last time, I actually made my own tool out of a medium sized crescent wrench. I ground it down and welded it up and essentially made an adjustable very large Crows foot. It worked very well actually, but it is easier to rent to the proper tool for free if you local AP store has it

The other word of caution is that not all inner joints are the same size (32mm). 32mm and 34mm iirc. Some have just 2 flats and some have 6 flats like a nut. The 6 pts are easier to get off because you can usually slip a wrench between the a arm (need to turn the wheel to get the rack and joint in the right spot). With the 2 flat joint, this method will be futile..

Just beware there are a couple of different tools and not all carry the one that works for VW. The main reason being that the VW has a ball on the inner and then 2 Flat Sides (or 6 depending on the make of rod). So, you need the tool that has the little U shaped Fork (crows foot) inserts that you slide onto the flats and then the tool that slips over the whole rod and then around that insert.

The ones that look like a socket on a long tube with no inserts, will not work. You need the one with the inserts like the Lislie. http://...Lislie_tool...

Here is a good thread that I just came across but it does not show the tool in detail, but eludes to what I described above.

The Bentley says you can ruin the racks gears by wrenching on it w/o clamping the shaft in a vice and this is true. So, if you have a stubborn one, then you need to either carefully put an adj wrench on the flat of the rack shaft to counter clamp it, or a wrench on the opposite side inner joint to try and break it loose. For final tightening, I like to have a wrench on both sides and crank on them both so that it does not ruin the gears in the rack.

In short, it can be a fairly simple job, but it can also be a super suck fest if a lot of loctite was used previously (which btw you are suppose to use when you install the new ones). Clean the threads first then use loctite.

I might just consider replacing the outer tie rods however. I replaced the rack boots one time on my Corrado, and it was very frustrating to get the clamps installed etc. Even if the outer tie rod ends are "frozen", you are still going to need to get them off to replace them. I would use a propane torch with Mapp gas along with a good penetrant like Kroil.

But it didn't really fit the inner tie rod so I grinded it to fit.
It was still a pain in the ass. I did not use loctite, so I failed.
Gonna do it on my day off on Monday.
Putting those Damn boots on is a nightmare as you need to line up the tubes on the rack to the hole in the boots.

That Crows foot is nice, however, a lot of the replacements only have 2 flat sides and it would not work. Also with the 2 sided inner, you are not going to get it with an adj or a wrench.

That Harbor Freight tool looks right on time along with the Lislie tool I posted above.

That just one of them. I have 6 points too. Hazel make good product too. I use adjustable wrench, it works, just need extra leverage. It can be done, you need turn the steering wheel to lock position (left or right). You should have enough room to slide the wrench or socket to break it loose. As far putting the clamps on, push it other way in, use little bit of sealant( rtv) and use long snipper(dikes) to crimp the clamps. Yes, it much easier on a lift, your knees don't get dirty

Update - I see more bad stuff!

I started this project and lifted the front end, placed it on stands and removed the front tires. Upon closer inspection I see some clear problems: The first set of pics are from the left side of the vehicle (driver).

The control arm busing looks like rubber stuff is coming out of it?

The tie rod boot is completely split in half:

And the ball joint look wet on the outboard side. Not sure if that is good or bad?:

On the right side (passenger) it look the control arm bushing is completely intact no visible issues, ball joint look normal and tie rod end looks ok too.

I have to tear into this and wanted some feedback before I get started.

WRDUSA seems to have the best deal for the parts I need. But I also like to buy from GAP too.

Good & Bad news!!!

Well got it all apart and I was able to remove the tie rod ends. But I found bad ball joints, control arm bushings and stabilizer bar has seen better days. Of course I busted the stabilizer links taking it apart. I like breaking shizz!

Anyway, things a looking up. I'll be buying parts this weekend and putting it back together soon.