Paul Smith Fall/Winter 2016-2017 RTW – LFW

Named one of the best dressed men in G.B. in 2015 by GQ magazine, Sir Paul Smith does not exclusively like stripes. For his Paul Smith fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection, unveiled at London Fashion Week, he embraced geometry all-round, mixing psychedelic patterns with cleaner designs and even solid-colored pieces always using geometric cuts. Even when Sir Paul Smith did not opt for stripes or any other kind of geometric print, he still managed to somehow make the entire outfit look geometrically perfect, mainly thanks to the sharp lines of the jackets, the solid color-blocking contrasts and even the minuscule buttons and gem attachments of the shirts, blazers and trousers.

Although being mostly sharp in lines, the entire Paul Smith FW 2016-17 collection showcases some delicate proposals too, with relaxed lines and vaporous fabrics that got blissfully combined with silky materials and softer colors. Aside from the architectural side, the lineup also channels some Seventies-inspired motifs to be quickly found in the many botanical patterns, paisley motifs and maxi gowns, which accentuate Smith’s passion for geometry even more.

The collection’s other main protagonist is androgyny, here used as a reminiscence of Smith’s golden age, namely the late Seventies/early-Eighties, when his perception of the suit (both male’s and female’s) changed forever its own role in the fashion industry. Smith’s suit isn’t solely meant for formal occasions, as the designer himself mentioned it as being perfect for any kind of event, from a night out with friends to a job interview.

Smith’s suits are, in fact, not solely meant for men: his collections often intertwine male and female motifs together, and we could particularly see it throughout this collection, as it sophisticatedly mixes feminine silhouettes with mannish cuts. To make everything look more natural, he brought his men’s and women’s teams closer, letting them work in the same studios so that they could draw inspiration from each other. Needless to say, it was a brilliant idea.

The suit isn’t however the only nostalgic moment in the Paul Smith FW 2016-17 collection: among the many proposals it is indeed possible to spot a bitten apple pattern too, brought back to life from his 1982 collection. “My reference is me!” ironically explained Smith afterwards.

As for the color palette, the lineup is mostly dark-toned, even when showcasing some vivid oranges and light burgundy shades. Total black looks are the main protagonists here, and their mysterious allure is to be accentuated by some plunging V-necklines, sharp Chinese collars, contrasting fur attachments, golden shoes and roomy waistcoats. Roomy are the draped coats too, often embellished with oversized paisley motifs (those are my favorites, as they look both elegant and quirky at the same time), furry collars and big light blue buttons.

Other interesting pieces include an aubergine coat with a contrasting orange stripe motif (which is kind of recurring), ankle-length fluid trousers and some extremely wearable sweaters that we are surely about to see quite a lot, next winter.