Trattoria Fratelli in an off-the-beaten-path neighborhood of Lebanon opened in 1996 and has been a consistent "Best Italian" winner in the readers' survey for a decade. And rightly so. I've written in the past that I believe it to be the best traditional Italian restaurant I've eaten in between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. It's quite a place. The bread, the wood-stove, the cozy atmosphere, the intimate bar, the herb garden, excellent mussels, wonderful pizza, extraordinary pastas and (if you're lucky) malted-milk-ball gelato combine to keep bringing patrons back. The restaurant takes no reservations because it doesn't have to. And I have no reservations about naming it among my five favorites of the past 25 years.