Over ten years we have honed our trek and we offer: extensive interaction with Sherpas
(who are friends and family), Sherpa AND western guides along with a great staff, a full medical kit and oxygen, a record of mountain safety, a private heater, a library of books on the Khumbu, hot water bottles for your sleeping bag and a combination of yaks and porters to carry your duffel bags. You can choose from the extensive lodge menus for your meals, which are accompanied by snacks, desert, a choice of herbal teas, hot drinks and freshly brewed coffee.

Our Everest High Passes Trek (we coined the name for this route) is a challenging, 'best of the Everest region' trek through some of the most spectacular landscapes in the Himalaya with guides who spend all their time in the Himalaya. Our Everest trek is a window into traditional Sherpa villages and 'gompas' (monasteries), their mountain Buddhist culture and their sacred peaks and valley. Not only peaks, the Everest region is an incredibly spiritual place, and we have the chance to visit its many colorful gompas, and have tea with their monks; Tengboche, Pangboche, Namche, Khumjung, Khunde, Thame and Lawudo Gompa.

Some of the highlights of the trek: the Chhukhung Valley, climbing Chhukhung Ri, trekking to Ama Dablam Base Camp, Everest Base Camp and ice pinnacles and climbing Kala Pattar, the Gokyo lakes, the prayer flags fluttering at the top of Gokyo Ri and the Himalayan peaks from Renjo La, where we emerge into the traditional Thame valley. Throughout, we are surrounded by spectacular 8000 meter peak panoramas and hosted by welcoming Sherpas in their cozy lodges ...

November and December are the perfect times to trek in the Everest region, the Himalayan peaks accentuated by clear, blue skies. And without the hoards of trekkers of the peak months. Wildlife such as the Himalayan thar, musk deer, danphe (Nepal's national bird), blood pheasant, Himalayan snow-cock, snow-pigeon and chukkar roam the mountain-sides.

10 - Trek to Chhukhung

11 - Chhukhung (climb Chhukhung Ri)

12 - Trek to Lobuche (option Kongma La)

13 - Trek to Gorak Shep (climb Kala Pattar)

14 - Trek to Lobuche (daytrip Everest Base Camp)

15 - Trek to Dzongla

16 - Trek to Tangnak (Cho La)

17 - Trek to Gokyo

18 - Gokyo

19 - Trek to Lungden (Renjo La)

20 - Trek to Thame

21 - Trek to Namche (option Lawudo Gompa)

22 - Trek to Lukla

23 - Fly to Kathmandu

24 - Kathmandu

Day 25 - Depart

The Route

The trek starts at the Hillary Airport in Lukla and the Tibetan
trading center of Namche bazaar and continues up to the remote Chhukhung valley,
with an optional crossing of the Kongma La pass to reach Kala Pattar and Everest
Base Camp in the snow-capped Khumbu Valley, with the Khumbu glacier along side
us. From here, we climb up and over the glaciated Cho La
pass to reach the turquoise Gokyo lakes, Gokyo Ri (peak) and the surrounding 8000m
peaks of the Gokyo valley. We finish this epic trek by crossing the stunning
Renjo La to the traditional grazing
region of the Thame valley, which leads up to the Nangpa La and Tibet. En route, we visit many of Kim's favorite spots,
and visit with her many Sherpa friends ...

To see the detailed itinerary and more photos use a laptop/desktop browser or tablet in landscape (and hit refresh).

Detailed itinerary

NOTE: Although we make an effort to follow the trek itinerary below, at times local
trail and weather conditions or lodge accommodation may make slight changes necessary. The trekking
itinerary may also vary slightly depending on trekkers'
acclimatization rates.

Early Arrival

Providing you have sent us your arrival details, you will be met at the
airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House (look for their sign
- they will be looking for you) and escorted to the guest house. Kim will book
the extra nights for you, so your room will be ready.

Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m/4355ft

You'll be met at the airport by a
representative from the Kathmandu Guest House,
so look out for a Kathmandu guest house sign when you leave the airport. They
will bring you back to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms are booked.

Kim will meet you at the guest
house and introduce you to Thamel, the main tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel
is a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes,
restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically
clad backpackers. Over dinner we check your insurance details (please have a
copy of your travel medical insurance policy with you), go over gear and get to
know each other over a beer at New Orleans cafe ...

Day 2 - Kathmandu

A free day to explore the Kathmandu valley. Options: Climb the many steps to Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), with
its commanding views of Kathmandu from 1420 meters, its whitewashed stupas and its
unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. The striking Buddha eyes of
Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract
pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. In the midst of traditional
gompas, and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, Boudhanath
attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations
(koras) of the stupa. Durbar Square, one of the old capitals of the Kathmandu
valley, is a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist temples, stupas and statues, and is
often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies. Hindu Pashupatinath
and its sacred temple complex on the banks of the holy Bagmati river. Here,
monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing
saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely
meditating - when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees.

We'll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to
do this, and in the evening will head out for dinner of good wine and wood-oven pizza at the Roadhouse Cafe.

Day 3 - Fly to Lukla 2850m/9350ft, Trek to Monjo 2835m/9300ft

A little after sunrise, we are indulged with a spectacular 25-minute flight over the
Kathmandu valley and along the snow-capped Himalayan ranges to the airport at Lukla. After
sorting out our loads with the porters or dzobkios and breakfast at Eco-Paradise Lodge, we
start trekking. The quaint village of Chaunrikharka lays below us; the trail takes us
above a rhododendron-choked forest, over the school and gompa and
past the checkered fields of barley, spinach and potatoes of the village. Ahead
of us is Karylung peak, covered in snow.

We are trekking along
the Dudh Kosi (river) along a
centuries-old trading trail from Nepal to Tibet. It is well
traveled by stout, heavily loaded Nepali porters and Tibetan traders (Khampas,
most distinguishable by the length of red
or black tassel wrapped around their
heads) conducting business between the weekly markets of Lukla and Namche with
Chinese and Tibetan goods brought over the 5700m Nangpa La (pass) from Tibet.

From the small hamlet of Thado Kosi, while crossing a small, shaky bridge, we
view the three sister peaks of Kusum Kanagaru to the east.
More beautiful walking over cobbled trails takes us through Ghat and the best-maintained cluster of mani stones and
prayer flags in the Khumbu. The
local lama, owner of the Lama Lodge in Ghat, is responsible for
this magical setting. At Phakding,
a lively village a half hour's walk away from Ghat, we’ll have lunch at
Ang Sani and Jangbu's Shangri La Lodge, well deserving of its name.

Passing by the small tea-houses servicing the locals and workers in Phakding,
we cross a long suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi and trek above the river,
climbing a bit to reach the first lodge of Benkar on the left. Continuing over a
small bridge, we continue through the rest of Benkar, the first village to
attend the Monjo school. Another suspension bridge, another climb, and we reach
Chumoa. One more small bridge and larger climb on uneven stone steps, and we
finally reach Monjo, where we stop at Kali and Chombi's luxurious Kailash Lodge for the
night. Monjo is a spectacularly situated Sherpa village where Kim taught English
a decade ago.

Day 4 - Trek to Namche 3450m/11,315ft

After a short walk past the school from Kailash Lodge we enter
the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. Descending to the river, we cross a long suspension bridge to reach
the hamlet of Jorsale and then and cross another long suspension bridge, continuing along the
sandy riverside trail, the shores peppered with large, rounded rocks. Hike carefully as some of the ascents and descents on steep,
stone staircases are a bit treacherous ...

Bring your
five-colored Tibetan prayer flags to hang on the long suspension bridge over the confluence
of the Dudh Kosi
(milk river) and the Bhote Kosi (river from Tibet) and send prayers
out into the Everest region! The steep hour and a half climb to Namche is
broken half-way up the hill by our first view of Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse, and will
prime you for the bakery once we arrive at this old trading village. You'll need
the extra energy to reach our guest house, Natang & Pemba's wonderful Moonlight
Lodge, scenically situated at the top of Namche, up a long flight of stone
steps, at 3500 meters.

Namche Bazaar, now the most prosperous trading village on the old trade route
with Tibet, sits in
an amphitheater surrounded by mountains. From here, we have perfect views of Kongde Ri in front of us, Kantega, Thamserku and Kusum
Kanguru to the east and
Khumbila behind us. Down-valley, the hills and valleys of the route from Solu to
Khumbu from Jiri sit shrouded in hazy shades of grey.

Day 5 – Namche

An acclimatization day in Namche. Everyone is free to relax and explore the bazaars, the bakeries, the Sherpa
and National park museums, Namche Gompa and the Tibetan markets.

DAY-HIKE OPTION:

Kim & Lhakpa
will lead whoever wants on a loop through the Khunde and Khumjung valley. Taking advantage of the crisp morning light we'll
hike up the steep hill
in back of Namche towards the lively, old Sherpa villages of Khunde and Khumjung,
passing through the old airstrip at Syangboche, still used for cargo, en route. On the ridge above
the airstrip we climb to a large, whitewashed chorten at the yak-breeding center. From there, we have are fabulous
views of Taboche, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kantega, Kusum Kanguru, Everest, Lhotse
and Nuptse. We may see some Himalayan Tahr grazing on the hillsides, and possibly Danphe and Chukkars.

We will visit the Khumjung Gompa, home to the only existing Yeti scalp on the planet ... The
adjoining villages of Khumjung and Khunde are some of the original villages in the Khumbu region, both
about 600 years old, and
are wonderful examples of local Sherpa architecture with their winding stone
walls, yak paddocks and wood and slate houses. Perhaps we will run into
Sherpa friends who will invite us in for some salt-butter tea, climbing up a
wooden ladder over the straw-lined manger to get into the main house on the
first floor. Both villages sit below Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa
peak, and near a famous rock-mural of Guru Rimpoche. The views of Ama Dablam
from this valley are breathtaking. Heading up the valley just a bit, we will visit Khunde's hospital, where Lhakpa's uncle
Kami is the head doctor and his cousin, Kami's son, is also now treating patients.

Next door at the Khunde Guest House we'll have lunch with the lovely owner who lost her husband to cancer a few
years previously. Her lodge has perhaps the best mountain views from the glass dining room. Satiated, we'll hike
through Khunde's entrance kane and back up the small ridge, where more Himalayan vistas await. Way down below us is
Namche, and hot showers at Moonlight ...

OTHER OPTIONS:

Visit the Namche Gompa perched on the hillside, the Sherpa Cultural Center
museum and re-constructed Sherpa house or the National
Park Headquarters museum. The Tibetans are often in the center of town in a
dusty bazaar with their goods from China. Alternatively, you might choose just to indulge yourself at
one of the two famous bakeries, shop for some yak bells or hand-woven
Himalayan hats, look through the gear shops for good trekking gear, chat with the sociable Sherpas
in the village, or just relax in preparation for the trek.
Watch out for dzobkios and cows wandering the narrow streets.

For some peak-spotting, climb steeply to a viewpoint an hour’s walk straight
up the ridge, worth the effort for the panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam.
Along the way, you are likely to see some wildlife such as musk deer, himalayan
tahr and the spectacularly-hued danphe (the Nepali national bird).

The
lodge has a warm shower, a large library, beer and wine in the cabinet and delicious home-cooked
food, so there is really no reason to leave at all. Later in the afternoon you might spot yaks wandering into the Moonlight Lodge.
They will be ours, with our yak-driver Kaila, and will accompany us for the rest of the trek.

Day 6 - Trek to Phortse 3780m/12,400ft

We have an easy two hour's walk from Namche, contouring around several
hillsides high above the Dudh Kosi below, to Tashi &
Lhakpa's Ama Dablam Lodge in Kyangjuma,
perched dramatically on a steep hillside overlooking the peak of the same name.
Their pet yak will by in the morning for some grub, and Tashi has the best
shopping in the Everest region, so we'll have a short stop here. Continuing
along the main trail, we veer sharply left at the intersection to Gokyo and take the
steep trail up to the bridge which intersects with the old trail from Khumjung,
and climb gradually for another hour or so to Mong La, where we will have a
well-deserved lunch (with fantastic views) at a small lodge perched
spectacularly on this 4000 meter pass.

It's a steep descent on a slightly exposed trail to Phortse Tenga where we cross the
river on a small bridge and start the short but steep
climb to Phortse, one of the first villages of the Khumbu region, at 3800
meters. On the way up, keep your eyes open and cameras out as there are many
musk deer, danphe and blood pheasants hiding in the rhododendron forests
bordering the trail and the village. The danphe dig for potatoes in
the lower fields of the village in the mornings and evenings. We'll bunk down
for the night at one of everyone's favorite lodges, the Phortse Lodge, which
boasts a wonderful dining room, great views and good electricity for re-charging
and perhaps watching a movie. The lodge is run by a lovely Sherpa couple, Ba Nuru and his wife Pasang.
Ba Nuru is a many-time Everest climber and one of the main participants in the
Phortse Climbing School, founded by Conrad Anchor and his wife.

Day 7 – Trek to Pangboche 3975m/13,040ft

We have a breath-taking hike ahead of us this morning, leaving Phortse on
the northeastern side heading towards Tengboche Gompa across the deep river
gorge below. Our trail skirts the high ridges of Taboche Peak, often
precipitous but always safe, and offering fantastic views around every corner.
Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse dominate the northern skyline, while Ama Dablam is
close enough to touch to the east and our old friends Kantega and Thamserku
grace the valley below us. We climb a small pass, and eventually reach Upper
Pangboche, where we'll wander the old alleys and take a peek inside one of the
four oldest gompas (monasteries), approximately 500 years old, in the Khumbu.

Contouring high above the newer (Lower) Pangboche, we pass a high mani wall,
some memorial chortens and the school before dropping down to our lodge in Lower
Pangboche. It's a lovely
village to stop in for the evening,
with views across the river to the trail to Ama Dablam Base Camp and the old
airstrip at Mingbo. We stay at the last lodge of Pangboche village, Sonam Lodge, owned by
Lhakpa's brother and sister-in-laws, Gyurme & Nima Lhamo, who also own the
newly built Ama Dablam Support Lodge a few hours up the Mingbo Valley. Gyurme is one of the many lodge owners that we will meet
along the way who has summit ted Everest many time. From the three-sided windows
of the dining room, we will be treated to a sunset over Ama Dablam, Everest,
Lhotse and Nuptse.

Day 8 – Trek Pangboche (Day trip Ama Dablam Base Camp)

We've scheduled an extra acclimatization day in Pangboche, and a day for a fantastic hike to Ama Dablam Base Camp
(4450m) where Nima and Gyurme own the Ama Dablam Support Lodge. It takes two and a half hours of beautiful
hiking towards the base of Ama Dablam to reach the
base camp, where we will visit the higher base camp, ablaze with colorful tents, before dropping a bit to
the lodge for lunch. The views throughout the day are sublime, especially of Pumori and Taboche, so enjoy this
extra day, and feel better for it later in the trek.

Day 9 - Trek to Dingboche 4300m/14,105ft

A short day since we are gaining altitude, so we enjoy the beautiful walk. Leaving Pangboche on the left side of the mani wall, we trek
along a rocky trail to tiny Somare and then
along wide yak trails past the intersection to Pheriche (the HRA health post is
there) and down to the river, where we cross on a small,
wooden stream to reach the scree hillside leading to Dingboche, another old Sherpa village
and the upper
limits of the permanently settled villages. The lower
half of Dingboche is a line of trekking lodges, while the upper half is still local Sherpa dwellings, fields, rock
walls and yak enclosures, reminiscent of what all Sherpa villages were like
years ago. Above us, an old Buddhist hermitage called Nangar Dzong, the summer
meditation place of Lama Sangwa Dorje, sits nestled in the hillside, and there
is a ridge on a high peak called Dolma Ri, topped with prayer flags, to climb for
those with extra energy. Look on top of the peak for the eagle, or 'lak',
perched there.

We'll bed down for the night at Shar Khumbu Resort, one of the nicest and newest lodges in the region,
owned by our friends Ang Cherring and his wife Ang Lhamo, who also own Himalayan Lodge in Gorak Shep.

Day 10 - Trek to Chhukhung 4750m/15,580ft

If we are all feeling acclimatized, we will trek the few hours up along the
Imja Kola to Chhukhung, a seasonal herding village nestled under Ama Dablam,
Lhotse, the Nuptse wall, Peak 38 and Island peak, to name just a few of the peaks that make this
such a superb setting. After lunch (or before with a snack) we have the option
to climb Chhukhung Ri, a climbing peak with two summits, the higher at about
5530m. From the summit, the views of Makalu in particular are awesome. Another option is to wander up the rolling valley,
very central Tibetan
in style, (after negotiating the ridges of the glacial moraine just above us) towards Island Peak Base Camp,
a three hour journey up, two hours back. The Chhukhung Resort, run by the industrious Chunti Sherpa, is a lovely
lodge with sunny, new rooms and a warm sunroom with views, perfect for peak-gazing in the afternoon. Sunsets are sublime,
so get out on the nearby moraine with your cameras ...

Day 11 - Chhukhung

This is one of the least trekked and most spectacular valleys, so we like to include two days in Chhukhung.
If you were too tired to climb Chhukhung Ri
or trek up the Island Peak Base camp valley yesterday you have the chance to do it today. Another option is
to trek a few hours to the Nuptse face, an awesome view
of this peak, or the Lhotse face nearby. Island Peak climbers may wander in late afternoon, exhausted after the day's climb ...

Day 12 - Trek to Lobuche 4935m/16,190ft

We have two options today, descending to Dingboche, traversing to Thugla and
then climbing to Lobuche, or crossing the Kongma La and the Khumbu glacier to reach Lobuche. Below
is the first (and easier/lower in altitude) option:

After returning
back down the valley to Dingboche, we crest the chorten-topped ridge and continue
another three hours further, looking down on the trail to the Cho La Pass and
Dzongla. Walking along the flat, grassy plateau, we pass the summer 'doksa', or
yak-herding settlement, of Dusa before heading down to the stony river coming
from the Khumbu Valley, and crossing it on a small bridge. A quick five minutes
up the hill and we arrive at Thugla and Tsering Lhakpa's Yak
Lodge, probably the most genuine alpine lodge in the Khumbu.
And it's worth a trek up to Thugla just to meet Tsering, who often takes out his
Tibetan 'damnye' to play some traditional Tibetan songs. We'll have lunch at
Thugla before continuing up.

From Thugla, it's straight up the steep, yak-trodden
trail to the memorials to the many climbers who have died attempting one of the
many peaks in the area (including Babu Chiri and Scott Fischer's). The Sherpas call
this place Chukpi Lhare, meaning 'wealthy persons' kharka'. Check the mountain
views behind you when you reach the memorial crest, they're spectacular. Next,
we head up-valley towards Lobuche, where we stay the night at Pemba's Sherpa Lodge. The views from the edge of the
glacier down valley are superb, almost more so as the clouds move up the valley,
so don't miss an afternoon walk up to the ridge with your camera. At Lobuche,
almost 5000 meters, it is especially important to take it easy, stay
hydrated and get plenty of rest.

Option 2: The Kongma La pass takes only an hour or so more than the route
via Thugla (not including stopping for lunch), and is very
do-able if we're strong and have slept two nights at Chhukhung. To reach the Kongma La, we head
directly west out of Chhukhung on a small, rocky trail and contour around many
hillsides, usually not very steeply, until we reach the Pokalden Base Camp.
After a few other hills, more steep, we will reach another Base Camp for
Pokalden and a clear blue lake which sits just below the pass. We climb the last
half hour on a trail which is good but looks impossibly built into the
cliff-side, and about 4 hours later we have reached the Kongma La, our highest
pass at 5540 meters.

*** Kim & Lhakpa will decide if we will attempt the Kongma La, and who is acclimatized and able to do the pass. We can
easily go in two groups, all meeting at the Eco Lodge in Lobuche.

Day 13 - Trek to Gorak Shep 5175m/16,975ft (Kala Pattar)

We leave Lobuche early, trekking up a rocky yak trail on the right side of
the Khumbu Glacier towards Gorak Shep, a walk of two or three hours. The walk
isn't difficult, but there are a few hills to crest, and we'll feel the
altitude. The last stretch of the trail snakes up and down glacial scree, and
just before Gorak Shep we get a view of Everest. Gorak Shep, with Kala Pattar
just to the left, is a welcome sight; the Himalayan Lodge has expanded, the
rooms are bright and relatively clean, the toilets are inside and the dining room is always lively
and warm. Even the food is good, quite a feat at 5175 meters many days
walk from the markets at Namche. To the east of Gorak Shep, Nuptse looms magnificently
above us, now a triangular rock face which turns pink with the evening light.

We will climb Kala Pattar (5640m/18,560') today if the
weather is clear, a steep, windy and switch backing climb of two (or more) hours. From the Tibetan prayer-flag
adorned summit, we are treated to in-your-face views of the
7000 & 8000 meter
giants Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Pumori as well as many other peaks on the
Nepal Tibet border. For the remainder of the day, rest, rest and lots of water ... And don't miss the sunset behind Nuptse.

Day 14 - Gorak Shep (Everest Base Camp)

Those who are interested can hike to Everest Base Camp at
5365 meters, a five hour round-trip walk along a glacial ridge, and then right
onto the creaking glacier itself. We will stop at 'Korean Base Camp', where a helicopter
crashed several years ago, once adorned with Buddhist prayer flags and now almost wholly removed. A reminder
of the fragility of life amongst these high peaks ... From here, we can explore inside the spires of the actual icefall,
a sublime experience.

For those who didn't do it yesterday and want to skip EBC, you have all day to attempt
the 5645 meter Kala Pattar with one of our guides. Rob Hall's memorial makes a nice side-trip
down, or alternative to the long climb up Kala Pattar, and affords great
views of Pumori.

Day 15 - Trek to Dzongla 4830m/15,840ft

Today is a five to six hour walk, first heading down the well-worn trail past Lobuche and
up an alternative, winding trail to Dzongla, a small 'kharka' of two lodges
which sits a few hours below the Cho La pass. The walk to Dzongla past the Cho
La Lake is a lovely one, contour after contour around scenic hillsides, and the panoramic mountain views are wonderful so
we'll take time to enjoy it. Turning right at the corner where we look left towards Pheriche and straight ahead at Cho La Lake,
we have a short but steep climb followed by a descent before crossing the valley where the Taboche Peak Base Camp is set.
One river crossing on a very small stone-slab bridge and one more steep climb awaits. Once at the Himalayan View Lodge in Dzongla,
we gaze up at the sheer wall of Cholatse Peak and get ready for the early
morning crossing of Cho La pass the next day. There is a new lodge owned by
Lhakpa's brother in law, Ang Tsering, a welcome change from the old one!

Day 16 - Trek over the Cho La Pass to Tangnak 4700m/15,415ft

An early start for the crossing of the scenic Cho La pass (5370m), a steep and
somewhat difficult ascent of a rocky ridge a few hours walk from Dzongla kharka.
We start by ascending gently around the ridge above the lodge, continuing for half an hour along a relatively
flat plateau and then crossing a small glacial stream on rock steps, often icy. We begin the real climb from here,
first switch backing gently to a massive rock wall which blocks the entrance to the pass ahead of us. Stopping for a rest,
we'll soon turn sharply right and start climbing a rock staircase, often with hands to steady us. It's a fun ascent,
and soon we've reached a small plateau where we gaze down on the Ama Dablam valley far below us. Again we start climbing towards the
pass, first right under a rock outcropping afterwards on rocks and snow, often icy and slippery and finally on the Cho
La glacier itself. Once up on top of the glaciated pass, we trek across the
snow, with Lobuche West looming above us, to the summit and hang some Buddhist
prayer flags to send prayers out across the Himalaya. Have your crampons or Yak tracks ready if you have them.
From the Cho La pass, we'll marvel at views of Ama Dablam, Kantega, Thamserku,
Taboche, Cholatse and Baruntse, and to Nangpai Gosain, Pasang Lhamo, Numbur and
on the Gokyo side. After a snack, it's a
scramble back down the very steep pass followed by a rocky, hilly trail across the valley, and another long,
steep descent to the yak kharka of Tangnak, where Lhakpa Nuru has built a new and
somewhat luxurious lodge, the Cho La Resort. (Chilled) beers are available from
the lodge-keepers should you need one ...

Day 17 - Trek to Gokyo 4790m/15,710ft

We start the morning by crossing the Ngozumpa Glacier on a sandy, shifting
trail, the frozen lakes creaking below and beside us as we snake our way to the
other side. Once back on the
main trail to Gokyo, we have an hour's hike past the second lake to the lodge at Gokyo.
In the Gokyo valley, the character of the trekking changes
abruptly. The opaque powder-blue lakes are often on the
verge of freezing over, and sometimes perform a Himalayan symphony of expanding
and retracting ice. We have entered the grassy ablation valley running beside
the Ngozumpa Glacier, and have our first sight of Gokyo, a seasonal village and
grazing area built beside the third, and biggest lake. Gokyo has become
something of a Himalayan resort without the crowd – at least in terms of the
comfortable lodges with sunrooms, unbeatable views, excellent food and warm
stoves. It is a great base to explore from, and we have plenty of time for it. A
more spectacular setting is difficult to imagine, and our guesthouse, the Cho
Oyu Lodge, perfectly situated on the lake-side, is a little piece of heaven.
Dali Sherpa is a wonderful host and good friend, and with her two kids at the lodge to help her has expanded the
lodge to include simple but beautiful new lake-side rooms.

Lured into the wonderful sun-room, it is easy to spend the day chatting with fellow
trekkers, watching shaggy yaks amble their way in and around Gokyo (sometimes
casually sticking their heads inside the lodges) and admiring the views. For
those with energy left over after the pass, a must is an excursion up Gokyo Ri
(5360m) for some Everest spotting and all-around spectacular views of the lakes,
the glacial moraine, the Khumbu icefall and the Himalayan peaks surrounding us
on all sides (including Makalu, this time). It is fantastic in the morning, the
middle of the day or for sunset, but don't forget to bring a torch if you opt
for a 'sunset on Everest' views, which is better than the sunrise.

Day 18 – Gokyo

If you didn't get up Gokyo Ri yesterday, you have another chance today.
Another option is an incredible day
hike up the Gokyo valley, past two or three more glacial lakes, towards Cho Oyu.
There are several trails that snake up this gorgeous valley, one emerging on the
ridge overlooking the creaking glacier, another passing the eerily deserted
fourth lake with it’s white, stony beach, and all with unforgettable views of
Everest and the Himalayan range. The unobstructed view of Everest from Scoundrel's Point
(4995m) is a decent reward for the walk. A third option is an hour's hike around Cho La Lake, passing the
beach and Buddhist and Hindu 'temples' on the opposite side.

Or just sit by the lake and relax. You ARE on vacation ...

Day 19 – Trek to Lungden 4375m/14,350ft

Another early Himalayan start as we head west of Gokyo lake (taking the upper
trail) towards the Renjo La pass (5415m). The trail switchbacks very steeply up
a sandy ridge, crosses an often-frozen stream, and continues along finally
skirting the dramatic rock face below the pass to the top, a climb of about four hours with Makalu looming ever larger on the horizon.
The trail has recently been improved to accommodate yaks, and the views
from the top are some of
the best in all of the Himalayas, with a long and impressive panorama of 7000
and 8000 meter peaks all around, and prayer flags to mark the pass. After a
snack and photos, we will begin the even steeper descent (trekking
poles are really good to have for today), again down new stone steps, to the
lake below, past several yak kharkas, past the twin Renjo Lakes and again steeply down to the Thame valley
where we stay at the newly renovated Lungden Support Lodge in
the small, walled seasonal hamlet of
Lungden. Again, the views are wonderful
from the lodge so don't be lured inside all afternoon by the warm stove. We have trekked down to one of the few still-traditionally
Sherpa regions of the well-trekked Khumbu.

Day 20 – Trek to Thame 3805m/12,480ft

Today's three hour walk is a step back in time as we pass by many old, walled Sherpa
villages, seasonal settlements of the Thame and Thamo villagers. We will
probably also share the trail with Tibetan yak caravans, Khampas, trading en route to and
from Namche and Tibet with the villagers. We follow the Bhote Kosi all day, and when we reach Thame Thang we hike
right through the old village. We'll make a short detour to Kerok Gompa, still small and Sherpa in style. Back down
from the gompa, we have a small ridge to climb before we look down on Thame and our lodge for the night. Thame is an old village of snaking
rock walls, yak paddocks and traditional slate-roofed Sherpa houses. Thame Gompa,
perched up to the north of the village, is one of the oldest in the Khumbu, and
one of the gompas that celebrates the Dunche festival in the summertime. We stay the night at
Lhakpa's uncle Kami (of Khunde Hospital) and his wife Dawa Dolma's beautiful Valley View Lodge, with the
best tongba (fermented millet beer, served in a bamboo container with a long
straw and hot water) in the Khumbu.

Take the afternoon to climb to the gompa and wander around the walled village.
We might stop in at Lhakpa's mother and sister's house in the lower end of the
village for a cup of tea if they are not in Mende, their winter home.

Day 21 – Trek to Namche (via Lawudo Gompa)

Back to Namche, the Tibetan market, the Moonlight Lodge, hot showers, good
food and cold beers today. But first a side-trip to Lawudo Gompa (3790m), affiliated with the
renowned Kopan Gompa in Kathmandu, tucked away above Thamo and Mende villages. After a steep descent to the Bhote Kosi,
which we cross on a high bridge over a narrow canyon, we take an
alternative (and rarely used by trekkers) trail which climb steeply to the small gompa where
Guru Rimpoche meditated in a small cave en route to Tibet. The monk or ani (nun)
staying this magical retreat will inevitably treat us to tea while we take in
the spectacular views from the gompa steps. Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak,
looms overhead, prayer flags from the gompa providing the perfect Himalayan
foreground. The local monk, Nawang Chhuldim, assured Kim that this was one of the most
beautiful spots in the Khumbu when she first happened upon this isolated gompa,
far from the main trail. The cave the famous Rimpoche used has
been turned into a tiny cave chapel, and there is a eclectic in-house library.
Kim has a book on the gompa, so ask for a look if you want some more history ...

We'll have lunch with Lhakpa's mother and sister in Mende, picnic style. Potato pancakes will be on the menu for sure,
a Sherpa specialty. From Mende, we drop steeply to the trail and trek for an hour and a half, contouring high above the river, to Namche.

Day 22 – Trek to Lukla 2850m/9350ft

We have a long hike ahead of us today, so we'll head off early from Namche. The descent of that long hill that we plodded
up less then a fortnight ago seems amazingly short and easy on the way down. Jorsale,
just before the bridge to Monjo, is the home of Phuru Diki, one of the two girls
Kim sponsors (she's now in school in Kathmandu), and we will probably run
into her youngest sibling and parents en route. After one last steep hill to the National
Park gate, we reach the welcome sight of Monjo and the National Park entrance. From here we have only an hour and a
half back to Phakding along the same trails that we trekked up a few
weeks ago, and we stop for lunch at Ang Sani's Paradise Lodge. We continue back to Lukla along the same trail, although it always looks
different coming from the opposite direction. We finish the trek
back at Dawa Phuti & Ang Pasang's Eco Paradise Lodge, where we'll have yet
another Sherpa feast and perhaps try some of Dawa's
Sherpa tongba. This cozy dining room
is one the nicest in the Everest region, so it's always an added treat to return
there after the trek. Ang Pasang is our contact at the airport, so we are in good hands
for our flight out the next morning. We will hand out tips to our staff during dinner, and treat them to a few beers and a 'buff' dal baht.

Day 23 - Fly to Kathmandu

Bags packed and ready to go before the sun rises as we fly out of Lukla to
Kathmandu early; taking off from the Hillary Airstrip is just as
exciting as landing! Flights our of Lukla are sometimes delayed by bad weather,
so we have an extra day in Kathmandu just in case.

In Kathmandu, back at the Kathmandu Guest House, long, hot showers await, and grubby clothes can be
dropped at the laundry. In the evening, we'll get together for the best
wood-oven pizza in town at Fire & Ice, followed later by coffee and drinks later
at one of Thamel's many cafes
...

Day 24 - Kathmandu

A free day in Kathmandu for shopping, some sun in the garden of the guest
house, shopping, cafe-ing or perhaps a visit to Boudhanath for some 'koras' to
give thanks for our safe journey back from the mountains. And sights we missed
during the first few days in Kathmandu, we can catch today, and afterwards out
for our last dinner together. This is also the extra day in case of delayed
flights out of Lukla.

Day 25 - Farewell

Sadly, we send you off to the airport for your flight home ...

Extra Days in Kathmandu

If you wish to stay longer, we can offer plenty of suggestions: mountain
biking or rafting in the Kathmandu valley, an Everest sightseeing flight, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan
(Kathmandu Valley's other historic capital cities), a night at the Fort Hotel in
Nagarkot for a bit of luxury and expansive sunrise/sunset mountain panoramas, visits to interesting temple villages
such as Changu Narayan, a few days at Barahi Hotel in Pokhara
or a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National Park (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park.
Kim can help to arrange any of these excursions for you.

Tashi Delek & Namaste; We'll see you during your next trip to the Himalayas!