THE _Jane Guy was a fine-looking topsail schooner of a hundredand eighty tons burden. She was unusually sharp in the bows, and on awind, in moderate weather, the fastest sailer I have ever seen. Herqualities, however, as a rough sea-boat, were not so good, and herdraught of water was by far too great for the trade to which she wasdestined. For this peculiar service, a larger vessel, and one of alight proportionate draught, is desirable- say a vessel of from threehundred to three hundred and fifty tons. She should be bark-rigged,and in other respects of a different construction from the usualSouth Sea ships. It is absolutely necessary that she should be wellarmed. She should have, say ten or twelve twelve-pound carronades,and two or three long twelves, with brass blunderbusses, andwater-tight arm-chests for each top. Her anchors and cables should beof far greater strength than is required for any other species oftrade, and, above all, her crew should be numerous and efficient- notless, for such a vessel as I have described, than fifty or sixtyable-bodied men. The Jane Guy had a crew of thirty-five, all ableseamen, besides the captain and mate, but she was not altogether aswell armed or otherwise equipped, as a navigator acquainted with thedifficulties and dangers of the trade could have desired.

Captain Guy was a gentleman of great urbanity of manner, and ofconsiderable experience in the southern traffic, to which he haddevoted a great portion of his life. He was deficient, however, inenergy, and, consequently, in that spirit of enterprise which is hereso absolutely requisite. He was part owner of the vessel in which hesailed, and was invested with discretionary powers to cruise in theSouth Seas for any cargo which might come most readily to hand. Hehad on board, as usual in such voyages, beads, looking-glasses,tinder-works, axes, hatchets, saws, adzes, planes, chisels, gouges,gimlets, files, spokeshaves, rasps, hammers, nails, knives, scissors,razors, needles, thread, crockery-ware, calico, trinkets, and othersimilar articles.

The schooner sailed from Liverpool on the tenth of July, crossedthe Tropic of Cancer on the twenty-fifth, in longitude twenty degreeswest, and reached Sal, one of the Cape Verd islands, on thetwenty-ninth, where she took in salt and other necessaries for thevoyage. On the third of August, she left the Cape Verds and steeredsouthwest, stretching over toward the coast of Brazil, so as to crossthe equator between the meridians of twenty-eight and thirty degreeswest longitude. This is the course usually taken by vessels boundfrom Europe to the Cape of Good Hope, or by that route to the EastIndies. By proceeding thus they avoid the calms and strong contrarycurrents which continually prevail on the coast of Guinea, while, inthe end, it is found to be the shortest track, as westerly winds arenever wanting afterward by which to reach the Cape. It was CaptainGuy's intention to make his first stoppage at Kerguelen's Land- Ihardly know for what reason. On the day we were picked up theschooner was off Cape St. Roque, in longitude thirty-one degreeswest; so that, when found, we had drifted probably, from north tosouth, _not less than five-and-twenty degrees!_

On board the Jane Guy we were treated with all the kindness ourdistressed situation demanded. In about a fortnight, during whichtime we continued steering to the southeast, with gentle breezes andfine weather, both Peters and myself recovered entirely from theeffects of our late privation and dreadful sufferings, and we beganto remember what had passed rather as a frightful dream from which wehad been happily awakened, than as events which had taken place insober and naked reality. I have since found that this species ofpartial oblivion is usually brought about by sudden transition,whether from joy to sorrow or from sorrow to joy- the degree offorgetfulness being proportioned to the degree of difference in theexchange. Thus, in my own case, I now feel it impossible to realizethe full extent of the misery which I endured during the days spentupon the hulk. The incidents are remembered, but not the feelingswhich the incidents elicited at the time of their occurrence. I onlyknow, that when they did occur, I then thought human nature couldsustain nothing more of agony.

We continued our voyage for some weeks without any incidents ofgreater moment than the occasional meeting with whaling-ships, andmore frequently with the black or right whale, so called incontradistinction to the spermaceti. These, however, were chieflyfound south of the twenty-fifth parallel. On the sixteenth ofSeptember, being in the vicinity of the Cape of Good Hope, theschooner encountered her first gale of any violence since leavingLiverpool. In this neighborhood, but more frequently to the south andeast of the promontory (we were to the westward), navigators haveoften to contend with storms from the northward, which rage withgreat fury. They always bring with them a heavy sea, and one of theirmost dangerous features is the instantaneous chopping round of thewind, an occurrence almost certain to take place during the greatestforce of the gale. A perfect hurricane will be blowing at one momentfrom the northward or northeast, and in the next not a breath of windwill be felt in that direction, while from the southwest it will comeout all at once with a violence almost inconceivable. A bright spotto the southward is the sure forerunner of the change, and vesselsare thus enabled to take the proper precautions.

It was about six in the morning when the blow came on with awhite squall, and, as usual, from the northward. By eight it hadincreased very much, and brought down upon us one of the mosttremendous seas I had then ever beheld. Every thing had been made assnug as possible, but the schooner laboured excessively, and gaveevidence of her bad qualities as a seaboat, pitching her forecastleunder at every plunge and with the greatest difficulty struggling upfrom one wave before she was buried in another. Just before sunsetthe bright spot for which we had been on the look-out made itsappearance in the southwest, and in an hour afterward we perceivedthe little headsail we carried flapping listlessly against the mast.In two minutes more, in spite of every preparation, we were hurled onour beam-ends, as if by magic, and a perfect wilderness of foam madea clear breach over us as we lay. The blow from the southwest,however, luckily proved to be nothing more than a squall, and we hadthe good fortune to right the vessel without the loss of a spar. Aheavy cross sea gave us great trouble for a few hours after this, buttoward morning we found ourselves in nearly as good condition asbefore the gale. Captain Guy considered that he had made an escapelittle less than miraculous.

On the thirteenth of October we came in sight of Prince Edward'sIsland, in latitude 46 degrees 53' S., longitude 37 degrees 46' E.Two days afterward we found ourselves near Possession Island, andpresently passed the islands of Crozet, in latitude 42 degrees 59'S., longitude 48 degrees E. On the eighteenth we made Kerguelen's orDesolation Island, in the Southern Indian Ocean, and came to anchorin Christmas Harbour, having four fathoms of water.

This island, or rather group of islands, bears southeast from theCape of Good Hope, and is distant therefrom nearly eight hundredleagues. It was first discovered in 1772, by the Baron de Kergulen,or Kerguelen, a Frenchman, who, thinking the land to form a portionof an extensive southern continent carried home information to thateffect, which produced much excitement at the time. The government,taking the matter up, sent the baron back in the following year forthe purpose of giving his new discovery a critical examination, whenthe mistake was discovered. In 1777, Captain Cook fell in with thesame group, and gave to the principal one the name of DesolationIsland, a title which it certainly well deserves. Upon approachingthe land, however, the navigator might be induced to supposeotherwise, as the sides of most of the hills, from September toMarch, are clothed with very brilliant verdure. This deceitfulappearance is caused by a small plant resembling saxifrage, which isabundant, growing in large patches on a species of crumbling moss.Besides this plant there is scarcely a sign of vegetation on theisland, if we except some coarse rank grass near the harbor, somelichen, and a shrub which bears resemblance to a cabbage shootinginto seed, and which has a bitter and acrid taste.

The face of the country is hilly, although none of the hills canbe called lofty. Their tops are perpetually covered with snow. Thereare several harbors, of which Christmas Harbour is the mostconvenient. It is the first to be met with on the northeast side ofthe island after passing Cape Francois, which forms the northernshore, and, by its peculiar shape, serves to distinguish the harbour.Its projecting point terminates in a high rock, through which is alarge hole, forming a natural arch. The entrance is in latitude 48degrees 40' S., longitude 69 degrees 6' E. Passing in here, goodanchorage may be found under the shelter of several small islands,which form a sufficient protection from all easterly winds.Proceeding on eastwardly from this anchorage you come to Wasp Bay, atthe head of the harbour. This is a small basin, completelylandlocked, into which you can go with four fathoms, and findanchorage in from ten to three, hard clay bottom. A ship might liehere with her best bower ahead all the year round without risk. Tothe westward, at the head of Wasp Bay, is a small stream of excellentwater, easily procured.

Some seal of the fur and hair species are still to be found onKerguelen's Island, and sea elephants abound. The feathered tribesare discovered in great numbers. Penguins are very plenty, and ofthese there are four different kinds. The royal penguin, so calledfrom its size and beautiful plumage, is the largest. The upper partof the body is usually gray, sometimes of a lilac tint; the underportion of the purest white imaginable. The head is of a glossy andmost brilliant black, the feet also. The chief beauty of plumage,however, consists in two broad stripes of a gold color, which passalong from the head to the breast. The bill is long, and either pinkor bright scarlet. These birds walk erect; with a stately carriage.They carry their heads high with their wings drooping like two arms,and, as their tails project from their body in a line with the legs,the resemblance to a human figure is very striking, and would be aptto deceive the spectator at a casual glance or in the gloom of theevening. The royal penguins which we met with on Kerguelen's Landwere rather larger than a goose. The other kinds are the macaroni,the jackass, and the rookery penguin. These are much smaller, lessbeautiful in plumage, and different in other respects.

The great peterel is as large as the common albatross, and iscarnivorous. It is frequently called the break-bones, or ospreypeterel. They are not at all shy, and, when properly cooked, arepalatable food. In flying they sometimes sail very close to thesurface of the water, with the wings expanded, without appearing tomove them in the least degree, or make any exertion with themwhatever.

The albatross is one of the largest and fiercest of the South Seabirds. It is of the gull species, and takes its prey on the wing,never coming on land except for the purpose of breeding. Between thisbird and the penguin the most singular friendship exists. Their nestsare constructed with great uniformity upon a plan concerted betweenthe two species- that of the albatross being placed in the centre ofa little square formed by the nests of four penguins. Navigators haveagreed in calling an assemblage of such encampments a rookery. Theserookeries have been often described, but as my readers may not allhave seen these descriptions, and as I shall have occasion hereafterto speak of the penguin and albatross, it will not be amiss to saysomething here of their mode of building and living.

When the season for incubation arrives, the birds assemble in vastnumbers, and for some days appear to be deliberating upon the propercourse to be pursued. At length they proceed to action. A level pieceof ground is selected, of suitable extent, usually comprising threeor four acres, and situated as near the sea as possible, being stillbeyond its reach. The spot is chosen with reference to its evennessof surface, and that is preferred which is the least encumbered withstones. This matter being arranged, the birds proceed, with oneaccord, and actuated apparently by one mind, to trace out, withmathematical accuracy, either a square or other parallelogram, as maybest suit the nature of the ground, and of just sufficient size toaccommodate easily all the birds assembled, and no more- in thisparticular seeming determined upon preventing the access of futurestragglers who have not participated in the labor of the encampment.One side of the place thus marked out runs parallel with the water'sedge, and is left open for ingress or egress.

Having defined the limits of the rookery, the colony now begin toclear it of every species of rubbish, picking up stone by stone, andcarrying them outside of the lines, and close by them, so as to forma wall on the three inland sides. Just within this wall a perfectlylevel and smooth walk is formed, from six to eight feet wide, andextending around the encampment- thus serving the purpose of ageneral promenade.

The next process is to partition out the whole area into smallsquares exactly equal in size. This is done by forming narrow paths,very smooth, and crossing each other at right angles throughout theentire extent of the rookery. At each intersection of these paths thenest of an albatross is constructed, and a penguin's nest in thecentre of each square- thus every penguin is surrounded by fouralbatrosses, and each albatross by a like number of penguins. Thepenguin's nest consists of a hole in the earth, very shallow, beingonly just of sufficient depth to keep her single egg from rolling.The albatross is somewhat less simple in her arrangements, erecting ahillock about a foot high and two in diameter. This is made of earth,seaweed, and shells. On its summit she builds her nest.

The birds take especial care never to leave their nestsunoccupied for an instant during the period of incubation, or,indeed, until the young progeny are sufficiently strong to take careof themselves. While the male is absent at sea in search of food, thefemale remains on duty, and it is only upon the return of her partnerthat she ventures abroad. The eggs are never left uncovered at all --while one bird leaves the nest the other nestling in by its side.This precaution is rendered necessary by the thieving propensitiesprevalent in the rookery, the inhabitants making no scruple topurloin each other's eggs at every good opportunity.

Although there are some rookeries in which the penguin andalbatross are the sole population, yet in most of them a variety ofoceanic birds are to be met with, enjoying all the privileges ofcitizenship, and scattering their nests here and there, wherever theycan find room, never interfering, however, with the stations of thelarger species. The appearance of such encampments, when seen from adistance, is exceedingly singular. The whole atmosphere just abovethe settlement is darkened with the immense number of the albatross(mingled with the smaller tribes) which are continually hovering overit, either going to the ocean or returning home. At the same time acrowd of penguins are to be observed, some passing to and fro in thenarrow alleys, and some marching with the military strut so peculiarto them, around the general promenade ground which encircles therookery. In short, survey it as we will, nothing can be moreastonishing than the spirit of reflection evinced by these featheredbeings, and nothing surely can be better calculated to elicitreflection in every well-regulated human intellect.

On the morning after our arrival in Christmas Harbour the chiefmate, Mr. Patterson, took the boats, and (although it was somewhatearly in the season) went in search of seal, leaving the captain anda young relation of his on a point of barren land to the westward,they having some business, whose nature I could not ascertain, totransact in the interior of the island. Captain Guy took with him abottle, in which was a sealed letter, and made his way from the pointon which he was set on shore toward one of the highest peaks in theplace. It is probable that his design was to leave the letter on thatheight for some vessel which he expected to come after him. As soonas we lost sight of him we proceeded (Peters and myself being in themate's boat) on our cruise around the coast, looking for seal. Inthis business we were occupied about three weeks, examining withgreat care every nook and corner, not only of Kerguelen's Land, butof the several small islands in the vicinity. Our labours, however,were not crowned with any important success. We saw a great many furseal, but they were exceedingly shy, and with the greatest exertions,we could only procure three hundred and fifty skins in all. Seaelephants were abundant, especially on the western coast of themainland, but of these we killed only twenty, and this with greatdifficulty. On the smaller islands we discovered a good many of thehair seal, but did not molest them. We returned to the schooner: onthe eleventh, where we found Captain Guy and his nephew, who gave avery bad account of the interior, representing it as one of the mostdreary and utterly barren countries in the world. They had remainedtwo nights on the island, owing to some misunderstanding, on the partof the second mate, in regard to the sending a jollyboat from theschooner to take them off.

ON the twelfth we made sail from Christmas Harbour retracing ourway to the westward, and leaving Marion's Island, one of Crozet'sgroup, on the larboard. We afterward passed Prince Edward's Island,leaving it also on our left, then, steering more to the northward,made, in fifteen days, the islands of Tristan d'Acunha, in latitude37 degrees 8' S, longitude 12 degrees 8' W. This group, now so well known, and which consists of threecircular islands, was first discovered by the Portuguese, and wasvisited afterward by the Dutch in 1643, and by the French in 1767.The three islands together form a triangle, and

JULY 24. This morning saw us wonderfully recruited in spirits andstrength. Notwithstanding the perilous situation in which we werestill placed, ignorant of our position, although certainly at a greatdistance from land, without more food than would last us for afortnight even with great care, almost entirely without water, andfloating about at the mercy of every wind and wave on the merestwreck in the world, still the infinitely more terrible distresses anddangers from which we had so lately and so providentially beendelivered caused us to regard what we now endured as but little morethan an ordinary evil- so strictly comparative is either