Review

Some of the most creative examples of “crossroads cooking” are found on Nouri’s micro-seasonal menus. Flavours are notably bold, but artfully nuanced. The snack of delicate Hokkaido scallop offers a stunning snapshot—thinly sliced and served in a sweet-savoury kaffir lime and coriander oil, mildly spiced hand-pressed coconut milk and lantana flowers for that surprise hint of guava—as does a simple raw bitter gourd shavings dressed in a blend of fermented beans, mint, cocoa nibs and sesame.