When I finally got out there to install the batteries, I realized that the tray that they sit on does not go all the way across from one side of the A-frame to the other, but there are brackets sticking up about 6" in on both sides. SO...not enough room for 2 batteries, so I had to take one battery and one box back to the store for money back.

And now I am down to just one 115Ah battery...

Still, it is a true deep cycle, and bigger than the original battery by about an extra 50%, but I was kinda hoping to have enough power to get through a couple nights, in case of emergency.

Well, I can also use the battery monitor to find "un-needed" fuses, for items that we do not need for one night, to minimize power consumption if we need to be off shore power for any significant amount of time. Technically, I could flip all the breakers except for the fridge and water pump, and remove all parasitic draw, and still have power to just the things i NEED.

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Take a 100ah battery, if your 12 volt camping frig is rated at 5amps, it should take 20 hours to drain the battery to 10.5v = dead battery. This doesn't take into consideration what else you have using up voltage. I have to add, that would be a fully charged battery. Remember our converter/charger are usually good up to about 80-85% full charge, now if you really only get about 50% use before you need to recharge that is 50% of the 80-85, meaning about 40% if NOT fully charged is all your getting out of a one battery. Now my math uses a lot of assumptions as I don't know how well you use your batteries as what you have using them, specs on the battery, etc. etc. But to answer your question, your not going to get 2 to 3 days.

Did some research on here, and found, and purchased, this Bogart TM-2030-RV.

Now your talken! I use two of these, one just for my solar array, and the other for the house and chassis battery. Awesome piece of equipment. I also use a Xantrex True Charge 2 just for charging my batteries. You get this installed you will know exactly where you stand.

When I finally got out there to install the batteries, I realized that the tray that they sit on does not go all the way across from one side of the A-frame to the other, but there are brackets sticking up about 6" in on both sides. SO...not enough room for 2 batteries, so I had to take one battery and one box back to the store for money back.

And now I am down to just one 115Ah battery...

Read this article. It shows how to use a kit by "power armor" to mount a box that will hold two batteries. You really need at least two batteries to do what you want !

I had a deep cycle battery sitting in the yard for a year. It had reversed its polarity. Go to Youtube and bring up ''How to restore battery with Epson Salts" My battery was 1.8 volts, it now is 12.1 I flushed it first with baking soda. It is the house battery, works fine. Dave

Well battery should be on a load . regularly , and if you place a battery guard that you can configure to never go under a certain voltage it protects your battery
Compare it with your self if you always eat and be full , you got lazy the same is with the battery it should be loaded and unloaded time to time
This will keep your battery healthy for years can be more then 10 years
if you do it right
The same is for you personally

Well battery should be on a load . regularly , and if you place a battery guard that you can configure to never go under a certain voltage it protects your battery

There is actually a device that will drain your battery, to a "set" point just for this purpose, but if you use your battery every couple of months this is really not necessary, and even then it's questionable. Yes, I agree it would last longer, but not sure I want to spend that much time myself.

I started another thread while installing the Battery Monitor, and along the way, noticed no signal going to the battery from the converter. Eventually, tracked it down to the battery kill-switch, which was not engaged, but needed to be clicked on and off a couple times, before VOILA!!! power to the battery.

I have no idea how long the original battery had not been charging, but now I know what killed it.

Ended up with good upgrades along the way, so it was a learning experience as well as a chance to add some decent parts to the trailer.

Well i also had once a battery killed that way
It had 2.1 volts left
But i could recover it
I manage to put a another 12 volt battery and mount it plus to plus minus to minus.
And charge the bank this way .
And the battery came up to 12 13.5 volts this way
tested it and was full of charge again!

I manage to put a another 12 volt battery and mount it plus to plus minus to minus.

And charge the bank this way .

And the battery came up to 12 13.5 volts this way

tested it and was full of charge again!

well worth the try

The problem is while it might read a normal voltage, there is so much lead sulfate crystals on the plates that it has no capacity left most likely. Put a load on the battery and the voltage will drop like a stone in minutes.

The problem is while it might read a normal voltage, there is so much lead sulfate crystals on the plates that it has no capacity left most likely. Put a load on the battery and the voltage will drop like a stone in minutes.

Nope!

This going full blast
Not dropping at loads , other then normal dropping

The problem is while it might read a normal voltage, there is so much lead sulfate crystals on the plates that it has no capacity left most likely. Put a load on the battery and the voltage will drop like a stone in minutes.

I put a load tester on mine, and it was right at the low end of the dial under load, so I scrapped it. It was still "good" but right at the lower limit, so I figured it was on its last leg.