Eblading a half blocked pre-99 body.

Hello PBNation.
I'm hoping to get some advise here. I halfblocked an old ebladed right feed body for a friend of mine and it hasn't worked since. It did work fine before.

The problem is it will not re-cock and the hammer doesn't seem to even open the valve. I turned the re-cocking time way up, but it seems there isn't enough pressure to push the hammer against the spring. Cocking pressure is at 80psi, has been higher.

The only thing I can think of is the weight of the bolt and back block provided enough inertial mass to overcome the spring pressure.

Sounds interesting, almost as if the hammer is having trouble moving in both directions, have you removed the hammer and cleaned the bottom tube etc? I think it would be good to take a look around down there

Yes, I've done that and the hammer drops into the bottom tube without catches. I'm just stumped. Some time we're going to put the old parts back on and see if it works. If so then it must be an inertial mass problem.

You shouldn't have to go over 350psi. Too much pressure behind the valve works like a stopper keeping the valve closed.

Check the IVG in the lower tube, it shouldn't be more than three or four turns in from flush. Two turns is a good average.

I would set your inline to ~250 PSI and with your eblade in classic mode, hold down the trigger and up the LPR until the backblock just reaches the furthest back it can go, then add a quarter turn more for good measure.

Go to a chrono with your IVG set at two or three turns in and see what the FPS is at. Up your inline reg to raise the pressure, if it peaks and the FPS falls again, that's the point where the pressure in the valve is overcoming the main spring/hammer inertia.

The point right before the FPS drop is called the sweet spot, if your sweetspot is low, turn in your IVG 1/2 turn, lower the inline reg to ~220PSI and then find where the peak is.

You'll find that the peak FPS goes up as the IVG goes in. If you're needing more than four turns to get a good velocity, you should look into a spring kit.

Finding a heavier halfblock hammer wouldn't hurt either. Oh, and make sure you've got a fresh battery and that no wires are pinched between the frame and body.

I'll try these, but keep in mind this is the older body that has a very small air chamber in front of the valve, about 3/8" diameter. Also keep in mind that this thing worked with the eblade before halfblocking.
That being the case, maybe the air pressure has to be higher requiring a stronger spring. I can't help but think the loss of the rear block and bolt weight is the culprit.