SONORA - Walking into the Europa Deli, Sports Bar and Grill is like walking back in time. And it's not just because of the retro diner decor.

The current Europa, which was revived last year, is in the same location in Sonora's historic downtown where the previous Europa Deli operated as a beloved comfort-food joint in the 1970s and '80s. It has the same menu, and is being operated by the same family.

The original Europa was operated by Harry Bezaitis. Now his son and daughter in law, Larry and Brenda Bezaitis, are in charge, but they haven't forgotten the family's Greek immigrant roots. Gyros are still a featured item on the menu.

When we arrived shortly before noon on a recent weekday, it appeared the family was maintaining another part of the Europa tradition: making the restaurant a friendly community hangout.

Smiling faces turned our way as soon as we walked through the door, and one staffer said, "You can sit anywhere you like."

We slid into a booth and were soon ordering beverages and the calamari appetizer ($7.99).

Our other orders were traditional diner fare: a grilled cheese sandwich ($4.99) and the gyro on pita bread ($5.99).

The calamari arrived a few minutes later in breaded, deep-fried sticks with a crunchy exterior. Both the spicy marinara and tartar dipping sauces were fresh. The plate also came with a generous wedge of fresh lemon.

The calamari was gone in minutes.

The gyro, when it arrived, stole the show. It came wrapped in what was obviously a very fresh pita roll, with white yogurt sauce and thick slices of tomato and sweet onion. Two wooden skewers held the sandwich together. We discovered it would be a good idea to keep these skewers out of the hands of any preschoolers in your party.

The gyro at Europa was made from beef, lamb and pork, and was well seasoned and tender.

Although many foods here are grilled or deep fried, the cooks at Europa also know their way around a salad. The side salad with the gyro had fresh baby greens, sweet cherry tomatoes and croutons that would have been at home in any contemporary boutique restaurant.

The grilled cheese sandwich came on thick slices of bread with melted American cheese in the middle.

The only disappointment was the fries, which were a little mushy.

Europa has a four-page menu, although the lunch crowd appears to mostly order off the first page, which has such staples as the quarter-pound hamburger ($4.99) and cheeseburger ($5.75). The charbroiled chicken sandwich is $7.99.

After 4 p.m. Europa offers a dinner menu with a variety of steaks and seafood. One of the most expensive dinner entrees is the rib-eye steak, at $18.95.