this sounds dum but how do u clean a stainless steel barrel

i just sited in my gun one shot than clean one for 5 rounds than shot 3 rounds clean for 15 than shot 15 rounds came home to clean it. ran 3 wet patches than a brush than 10 dry till they came clean. then ran a wet thought came out clean and a few dry ones i find it hard to belive it to be clean. it was way to fast or maybe im just use to old guns. (i was useing shooter's choice solvent )

...might want to try some "sweets" for copper fouling... just be sure to dry the shooter's choice first, do not mix sweets with other solvents... let it soak for 15-20 minutes and check for "blue" on the patch, an indicator of copper... hope this helps...

Bigrich ,
No right way ! This is my way .
I go chamber to muzzle only as I don't like dragging the crap from the bore back into the chamber .
- Dry patch or two .
- 3 patches wet with Sweet's (Ammonia based) copper solvent and leave 15 mins .
- Dry patches until pretty clean .
- 4 strokes or more with a bronze brush covered in Hoppe's number 9 or similar .
- Dry patches until clean .
- Couple of Patches wet with Tetra Gun Lubricant .
- Dry patch before use .
Always use a bore guide . I like the MTM . [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
Works for me .

I aggree with nowler that the Forrest Foam is very useful, but don't have the time (or patience!) to do one shot every 24 hrs. My rifles all have stainless match grade barrels and are cleaned using Forrest Foam, JB Bore paste and Hoppes no9:

NEVER MIXED, I HASTEN TO ADD

Fire 1 shot, Forrest Foam, leave for 30 mins, dry patch untill no residue. Oil a patch, coat with thin film of JB, 20 - 25 full length strokes without exiting chamber or muzzle then use patches untill clear. I recommend using a bore guide.

Repeat for each shot for ten rounds.

Then shoot five and clean using same method.

Repeat.

Repeat untill your barrel feels easy to clean, there will be a noticable difference from the earlier shots in the resistance on the patches. Finally run a barely damp patch of no9 through and dry patch after to protect barrel when in your cabinet.

This method works for me and I have had no problems with accuracy loss / copper fouling.

A bore guide is usually some sort of tube, usually w/ some Delrin parts machined to appropriate diameters, that fits inside the receiver of the gun (w/ the bolt removed) and guides the rod from the back of the receiver, in thru the chamber area into the throat. Biggest thing they do IMHO is to help seal off the bore when you are sluicing various nasty chemicals down the barrel so that none of them can seep down into the stock bedding areas, and damage the bedding or the stock material itself. Combined w/ a lined mat or stock 'boot' of some sort over the cheekpiece area of the stock, you should be able to keep all the cleaning solvent well away from the stock (bore solvents do Very Bad Things to various stock finishes as well.