Its shouldn't mess with any saves and won't mess with the CFW install but might set few things back to default

I have 2 CECH2003A PS3 Slims, and no such issues with playing any games and they can receive some abusing in gaming and don't shut down and are 100% reliable. More reliable in fact than my CECH4003A

This is a totally different situation, your PS3 sometimes refuses to turn on straight away, indicating a more serious issue. @SeanRanklin only has the issue in ONE game and no other issues like you have stated with yours so by logic there is no connection with this problem and the other and as I stated many posts ago electrical would not be selective to one game and would persist in many over ways like yours is an electrical fault, while an issue with just one game is not. Everything I have read suggests a memory leak due to the way the game is coded and as this happens on the X-Box 360 version of Tekken Tag 2 it can't possibly the NEC's for just one game.

Memory leaks in games build up to the point where in most cases the game becomes unplayable ( BO1 has one with the main video title sequence, your disc will be fine but the game takes forever to load the intro video, crashes, or loads it but it lag's during watching it ) and will crash or shutdown your console as they are using way more memory than they should be to the point where your console has non left for other things and....instant shutdown or instant restart into safe mode... When this happens the cache is then cleared and the console would be back to normal...that is until you try to play the game again and then it would happen again, game play time for this fault is usually 20mins to 1hr max then shutdown or restart.

@SeanRanklin are you using the latest update for the game? I am not sure if they attempted to patch this fault or not with updates.

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I am not saying that the NECs its was causes the freezing or shutdown in TT2 mate, NEC problem its a whole different topic.

Remember GT6? That game had a lot of issues specifically on the 60Gb,which would shutdown after 5 to 7 min of gameplay.

I am not saying that the NECs its was causes the freezing or shutdown in TT2 mate, NEC problem its a whole different topic.

Remember GT6? That game had a lot of issues specifically on the 60Gb,which would shutdown after 5 to 7 min of gameplay.

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If I remember rightly it was a pain in backside game full stop when it was released. Another game that I think had a memory leak issue, as well as various other issues. Not a fan of this GT, GT5 Academy Edition was a much better and more stable game.

Its shouldn't mess with any saves and won't mess with the CFW install but might set few things back to default

I have 2 CECH2003A PS3 Slims, and no such issues with playing any games and they can receive some abusing in gaming and don't shut down and are 100% reliable. More reliable in fact than my CECH4003A

This is a totally different situation, your PS3 sometimes refuses to turn on straight away, indicating a more serious issue. @SeanRanklin only has the issue in ONE game and no other issues like you have stated with yours so by logic there is no connection with this problem and the other and as I stated many posts ago electrical would not be selective to one game and would persist in many over ways like yours is an electrical fault, while an issue with just one game is not. Everything I have read suggests a memory leak due to the way the game is coded and as this happens on the X-Box 360 version of Tekken Tag 2 it can't possibly the NEC's for just one game.

Memory leaks in games build up to the point where in most cases the game becomes unplayable ( BO1 has one with the main video title sequence, your disc will be fine but the game takes forever to load the intro video, crashes, or loads it but it lag's during watching it ) and will crash or shutdown your console as they are using way more memory than they should be to the point where your console has non left for other things and....instant shutdown or instant restart into safe mode... When this happens the cache is then cleared and the console would be back to normal...that is until you try to play the game again and then it would happen again, game play time for this fault is usually 20mins to 1hr max then shutdown or restart.

@SeanRanklin are you using the latest update for the game? I am not sure if they attempted to patch this fault or not with updates.

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Interesting read, indeed. I was always leaning away from the NEC's because it only occurs during the gameplay fight sequences in this one game. I am pretty sure I rebuilt the data base a while ago, but nothing changed. However i noticed there is an additional step to be performed in safe mode which i did not do. I will have to follow that post's instructions and try again. I am worried a little that it might mess up my CFW settings, can it do this?

Also yea, i am using the latest patch data, also have tried without the patch installed and the same thing happens. I still dont know how i can run games like uncharted and GTA V for hours, and never have temps going above 68 (however on hot days, the fans spin up to 45% at times just to keep the temperatures stable, which i dont really like so i try to limit my playtime), yet i cant even get one match sometimes completed in Tekken before shutdown.

Strange thing is, i have access to a super slim and a regular slim - no shutdowns ever on these systems.

Interesting read, indeed. I was always leaning away from the NEC's because it only occurs during the gameplay fight sequences in this one game. I am pretty sure I rebuilt the data base a while ago, but nothing changed. However i noticed there is an additional step to be performed in safe mode which i did not do. I will have to follow that post's instructions and try again. I am worried a little that it might mess up my CFW settings, can it do this?

Also yea, i am using the latest patch data, also have tried without the patch installed and the same thing happens. I still dont know how i can run games like uncharted and GTA V for hours, and never have temps going above 68 (however on hot days, the fans spin up to 45% at times just to keep the temperatures stable, which i dont really like so i try to limit my playtime), yet i cant even get one match sometimes completed in Tekken before shutdown.

Strange thing is, i have access to a super slim and a regular slim - no shutdowns ever on these systems.

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That was the post that confirmed what I thought, that in all probability it wasn't the NECs in your case, ( But can't be 100% sure about this maybe 75% lol ) as your PS3 would behave much like how NakedSnake1995 described his was. At times I don't mind trolling through the internet looking for solutions for peoples problems if I don't have a solution myself, and this problem has been around since the game was released and happens not only on PS3 but X-Box 360 versions of the game so there is loads out there on it if you look in the right places.

I have 2 Slims, CECH2003A's both of them, and a SuperSlim CECH4003A and no game has ever shut them down and my Slims use NECs, on the jailbroken slims it has been my own fault when modding if they shut down or entered safe mode as I do love to mess about with the graphics of games.

[email protected] corrected the mistakes they made with the launch models with these models. The SuperSlim I have is near indestructible, it has seen some serious abuse in gaming and the only thing to fail has been the Bluetooth and that was my own fault as I didn't replace the thermal paste quickly enough and the heat killed the Bluetooth.

Doing the above steps definitely won't mess with saves but the rebuild database may reset some CFW's settings to default.

That was the post that confirmed what I thought, that in all probability it wasn't the NECs in your case, ( But can't be 100% sure about this maybe 75% lol ) as your PS3 would behave much like how NakedSnake1995 described his was. At times I don't mind trolling through the internet looking for solutions for peoples problems if I don't have a solution myself, and this problem has been around since the game was released and happens not only on PS3 but X-Box 360 versions of the game so there is loads out there on it if you look in the right places.

I have 2 Slims, CECH2003A's both of them, and a SuperSlim CECH4003A and no game has ever shut them down and my Slims use NECs, on the jailbroken slims it has been my own fault when modding if they shut down or entered safe mode as I do love to mess about with the graphics of games.

[email protected] corrected the mistakes they made with the launch models with these models. The SuperSlim I have is near indestructible, it has seen some serious abuse in gaming and the only thing to fail has been the Bluetooth and that was my own fault as I didn't replace the thermal paste quickly enough and the heat killed the Bluetooth.

Doing the above steps definitely won't mess with saves but the rebuild database may reset some CFW's settings to default.

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I have a Gran Turismo 5 XL Edition disk,
The game always shutdown in the replay after a match.
If i am quick enough i can skip the replay.
So far that's the only instance of sudden shutdown i get.
It's unclear to me what causes it,is it hardware?,is it the the disc?,is it the software?
There are too many variables at play here.

I have a Gran Turismo 5 XL Edition disk,
The game always shutdown in the replay after a match.
If i am quick enough i can skip the replay.
So far that's the only instance of sudden shutdown i get.
It's unclear to me what causes it,is it hardware?,is it the the disc?,is it the software?
There are too many variables at play here.

I am worried about it but so far my system is in a OK condition.

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Found this post in about five minutes flat, not exactly the same as your problem but the same in the respect that its to do with the older model PS3s and the cause seems to be the game updates for the older models.

Found this post in about five minutes flat, not exactly the same as your problem but the same in the respect that its to do with the older model PS3s and the cause seems to be the game updates for the older models.

I just bought another 60GB CECHC to test it, unfortunately, the previous owner or whom ever repaired the console, tight the bolts too hard into the heatsink, by the time i wanted to delid the RSX and replace the CELL, it bent the cooper heatpipes, and broke the bolt holding the RSX against the Heatsink.

And now i have to get another heatsink, which will be a pain in the arse to find it cheap.

Yeah, I have tried it with no updates. Still same issue persists. In game, actual gameplay will cause a shut down.

I think initially the thought of doing a rebuild data base scared me away from trying that fix in case it screws up my webman fan control and since I’m using the first model fatty, I’m super paranoid that any time spend with the unit powered on without fan control might kill my system, so I’ve refrained from trying it. Maybe I’ll give it a go if I feel risky enough one day

Yeah, I have tried it with no updates. Still same issue persists. In game, actual gameplay will cause a shut down.

I think initially the thought of doing a rebuild data base scared me away from trying that fix in case it screws up my webman fan control and since I’m using the first model fatty, I’m super paranoid that any time spend with the unit powered on without fan control might kill my system, so I’ve refrained from trying it. Maybe I’ll give it a go if I feel risky enough one day

@naked snake
Dude, you have to stop buying these 60gbs mate!

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You got to take risks at some point if you want to attempt to fix it. Personally I would make sure that you have everything you need to set up your PS3 in the package folder on the HDD just in case.

The first thing I do on my slims is reinstall webMAN and enable the fan control. should take no longer than 5mins to do so the risk is at the low-ish end. You could try putting a bag of something frozen on top of the the PS3 while doing it, that would keep it cool lol

@Naked_Snake1995 I have to agree with @SeanRanklin on this one. Stop buying these vintage collectors items lol and get yourself a CECH20*** model ps3

You got to take risks at some point if you want to attempt to fix it. Personally I would make sure that you have everything you need to set up your PS3 in the package folder on the HDD just in case.

The first thing I do on my slims is reinstall webMAN and enable the fan control. should take no longer than 5mins to do so the risk is at the low-ish end. You could try putting a bag of something frozen on top of the the PS3 while doing it, that would keep it cool lol

@Naked_Snake1995 I have to agree with @SeanRanklin on this one. Stop buying these vintage collectors items lol and get yourself a CECH20*** model ps3

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I already have,and this 60GB i bought,wasnt to add to my collection,but rather to test it,was cheap anyways,now its going to the future owner for parts or repair which i really dont care much

The fun part its after deliding the RSX ive noticed that the core was shinning silver,but the console sufferd from YLOD, at least a hairdryer blow got it working again (and i know a hairdryer wont fix anything,as well as reballing, a full chip replacement its needed,but i just wanted to see how far i can get).

I already have,and this 60GB i bought,wasnt to add to my collection,but rather to test it,was cheap anyways,now its going to the future owner for parts or repair which i really dont care much

The fun part its after deliding the RSX ive noticed that the core was shinning silver,but the console sufferd from YLOD, at least a hairdryer blow got it working again (and i know a hairdryer wont fix anything,as well as reballing, a full chip replacement its needed,but i just wanted to see how far i can get)
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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Sometimes things can look OK form the outside but there could be damage to the internal pathways. I've never delided any of the CELLS and RSX's on my consoles just thermal paste replacement but I think both my Slims could do with a full replacement of everything to do with them. And the Super Silm has no IHS on the RSX not even a HS, just a copper cooling tube to the central chip of the RXS. Only the CELL use's the a HS.

Thanks. I will try to do something similar, but I gonna use six 330uf capacitors. Two for oe108 and four for oe128. And, sorry for noob question, do I need to scratch the place where I solder to ground? I will use the same place that you showed in your picture

Thanks. I will try to do something similar, but I gonna use six 330uf capacitors. Two for oe108 and four for oe128. And, sorry for noob question, do I need to scratch the place where I solder to ground? I will use the same place that you showed in your picture

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There are a lot of ground points around, the one i choose was just because coincidence, i was painting to that side and there was a circle and i thought... yeah why not
But note there are some ground points that already have a solder ball on top... is better to use one of them because is not needed to scratch the varnish

For the others (v_in, and v_out)... in the photos ive seen it looks like sometimes there is a bit of metal that can be seen at the sides of the tokin... if you are lucky and you can solder there then is fine, no need to scratch
But that amount of metal is very tiny and could be a pita, so i think is better to scratch in the dots i marked in red and orange... are located exactly in between the "metal" im mentioning, so with a bit of scratching you can remove all the varnish, and later when soldering create a solder ball in between the tokins (the solder ball touching the "metal" of both tokins)... this should be a relliable solder, and initially doesnt looks specially hard to do

The risky part is the scratching... but not much, because you are removing the varnish of a big area (either v_in, or v_out) and doesnt matters if you make a "hole" in the copper by scratching too much because everything will stay connected

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Edit:
Well, the big solder pads that can be seen in the photo all around doesnt seems to be ground, but anyway... what i meant is better to find a ground point with a solder ball on top (or ready to be added the solder ball on top), this way there is no need to scratch for ground

If you dont find something better... this grounds seems to be good enought
You can solder a wire laying all along on top of them

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So, I'm just finished soldering. Before assembling, I've powered it on to check it would even work. And it worked, it started normally, I've used multimeter to measure, and it was fine. But after assembling, it won't start. There is green light for a second, then yellow for another second and it shut down, red light blinking. I'm assuming I did a mistake, because on oe108 I've got 1350uf, and it should have 1000uf. But I thought that if it work, the bigger uf number wouldn't be a problem. So next week I'm gonna remove one 330uf tantalum. But why it worked without hdd, Blue Ray and network card? Are you think that removing one tantalum would help?

So, I'm just finished soldering. Before assembling, I've powered it on to check it would even work. And it worked, it started normally, I've used multimeter to measure, and it was fine. But after assembling, it won't start. There is green light for a second, then yellow for another second and it shut down, red light blinking. I'm assuming I did a mistake, because on oe108 I've got 1350uf, and it should have 1000uf. But I thought that if it work, the bigger uf number wouldn't be a problem. So next week I'm gonna remove one 330uf tantalum. But why it worked without hdd, Blue Ray and network card? Are you think that removing one tantalum would help?

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The problem after assembling it i guess is caused by a shorcut (of the metal shields?), before doing anything other just dissasemble it again and check again that it boots normally without the metal shields

*And remember, if you are going to power up the motherboard is needed to have the heatsink in his place and the fan connected to avoid overheating. Never power up the motherboard without them !

My experience replacing capacitors is that you can replace them by any other capacitor with the same or bigger capacitance, and with the same or bigger voltage
Really, there is a wide range of valid capacitors you can use

Also, if you take a look at other people that made this repair in the tokins, they doesnt uses to remove them. The only scenario where is really mandatory to remove the tokins is if are in shorcut internally (but in this case the motherboard should refuse to turn on and should display an error code with the leds)

So... if i where you, i would not remove them
The value you are having is the 1000uf from the new tantalum "custom" capacitors added externally + 500uf or so from inside the tokins

*Also, the tokins have 4 lines of metal at bottom, and all that lines are soldered with the motherboard, 2 of them are ground (and this ground lines dissipates the heat of the solder iron). The point is... there is lot of metal and are soldered with lot of tin, so is needed to use a very high temperature to remove the tokins... and it could be risky

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Btw, can you make a photo of your installation and post it here ?, i would like to see what you did, and it will be handy for other people

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Important edit !!!

As said initially, you need to dissassemble it and verify if it boots fine without the metal shields
Incase it boots fine... you need to disconnect all wires and make some tests adding and removing the metal shields
Maybe what is happening is the metal shields are touching the custom capacitors ? (and this is what causes the shorcut)

The problem after assembling it i guess is caused by a shorcut (of the metal shields?), before doing anything other just dissasemble it again and check again that it boots normally without the metal shields

*And remember, if you are going to power up the motherboard is needed to have the heatsink in his place and the fan connected to avoid overheating. Never power up the motherboard without them !

My experience replacing capacitors is that you can replace them by any other capacitor with the same or bigger capacitance, and with the same or bigger voltage
Really, there is a wide range of valid capacitors you can use

Also, if you take a look at other people that made this repair in the tokins, they doesnt uses to remove them. The only scenario where is really mandatory to remove the tokins is if are in shorcut internally (but in this case the motherboard should refuse to turn on and should display an error code with the leds)

So... if i where you, i would not remove them
The value you are having is the 1000uf from the new tantalum "custom" capacitors added externally + 500uf or so from inside the tokins

*Also, the tokins have 4 lines of metal at bottom, and all that lines are soldered with the motherboard, 2 of them are ground (and this ground lines dissipates the heat of the solder iron). The point is... there is lot of metal and are soldered with lot of tin, so is needed to use a very high temperature to remove the tokins... and it could be risky

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Btw, can you make a photo of your installation and post it here ?, i would like to see what you did, and it will be handy for other people

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Important edit !!!

As said initially, you need to dissassemble it and verify if it boots fine without the metal shields
Incase it boots fine... you need to disconnect all wires and make some tests adding and removing the metal shields
Maybe what is happening is the metal shields are touching the custom capacitors ? (and this is what causes the shorcut)

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I had heatsink and fan connected when tested. You might be right, probably metal shield caused problems, because without it, it booted up. Here is my picture, I'm solder noob, so please don't laugh. And on the picture are 6 tantalums. The right bottom one is two tantalums soldered together. It was a lot easier