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German Beer Mustard

Coarsely ground, packed in a stone crock.

I found this excellent mustard from (former) eastern Germany over a decade ago. It was never cheap, but when the U.S. started imposing a tariff on mustard and their price doubled, we had to stop ordering. Thanks to reduced mustard tariffs it's back—and there’s reason to celebrate. It is very, very good.

Friedrich Morgenroth is the eighth generation to make Kleinhettestedt mustard, so named for the 700-year-old village where the mill is located. Thankfully his son is training to follow in his footsteps, so we should be assured of mustard through our lifetime. It's made in relatively small batches with giant millstones in a slow, cool process similar to Raye’s. Packed in hefty gorgeous stone crocks that you’ll never want to throw away.

Kleinhettestedt mustard has a remarkable texture. The seeds are suspended in a thick mash that's neither coarse nor smooth. It's substantial. I find myself taking a bite of them and chewing a little to enjoy the flavor, something I wouldn't do with a completely smooth mustard.

Thebeer (bier) mustard is ground on the finer side. Mixed with black beer, it has a slight bit of heat at the back of the tongue.

Use it on pretzels, sandwiches and roast pork. Slather them thick on both sides of the bun with a charred grilled hamburger and melted slice of Cabot Zingerman's Cheddar. If you made some homemade bratwurst, then these would be a perfect accompaniment. Anyone who likes traditional central European food will enjoy a crock.

"Semi-smooth, with a bracing bite that can handle the most succulent sausages. (That it comes in an ancient-looking crock only adds to its appeal.)"
Sara Dickerman, The Wall Street Journal