1999 Clos Du Val, Merlot, Napa Valley, California, $25. Blackberries and plums are apparent on the nose, with cedary spice nuances. Very stylish and well-balanced, this wine is all that you can ask from a Merlot. Lush without being overblown, layered complexity, crisp acids, and silky tannins combine for a lovely wine. 90/91.

1998 Keenan, Merlot, Reserve, Napa Valley, California, $42. Take their regular Merlot and stuff in another pound of intensity and you have the Reserve. Approachable now, this one will last for many years to come. 91/90.

1999 Luna, Merlot, Napa Valley, California, $32, 6,400 cases. You can almost spread the blackberry preserves across your olfactory senses with this dark ruby beauty. Very polished, with full flavors on the palate and satiny smooth tannins. Black fruit, chocolate, and vanilla linger on the complex, lengthy finish. 92/92.