You mean the line from the brake res? As long as the e34 one is long enough, you will be fine, it's just a rubber hose. If you are talking about the hard line from the clutch master to the slave, it might work if you bend it appropriately.

Forced yes I meant the hard line I grabbed the brake fluid res. From the E34 since mine is capped off will it hurt my master to pull mine off and pop the e34s on there? And how do I make it start in any gear I read it somewhere and can't remember

google E30 manual conversion for all the information you need. on a right hand drive car its just a nuts and bolts conversion, only have to short two wires to ground to get past neutral switch. RHD has a seperate reservoir etc for the clutch, but we still have the same brake reservoir with the little nipple on it so there you go.

I highly doubt any E34 parts will work for the E30 though. they are very different anaimals as i have found out. E32/E34 yes, E30/E34 not so much. E34 pedal box definately wont fit. but this experience is based on RHD cars of course, so LHD may be different, but i doubt it.

Getting my clutch pedal in the morning I will grab the slave line off that e30. Your not saying I'm going to have to cut any holes are you? Am I going to need any special Bmw tool to align the clutch?

no holes to cut, on a RHD there is an oval panel on the firewall that you need to punch out for the master cylinder to poke its tail out and connect to the hardline in the engine bay, and a rubber gasket to make it water proof. The oval is pressed into the chassis when built so comes out if you tap it a few times with a ballpein hammer. not sure if LHD is the same?

Quote:

Originally Posted by fcsteve

you need a bmw clutch alignment tool

no you don't, have never used one. get the 10mm 1/4" drive 1" long socket most socket sets come with and wrap a few layers of sticky tape around the outside to make it snug in the clutch hole, with a 3" 1/4"drive extension on it, then slip another socket over the top the is the same size as the center of the pressure plate. I use 100% Bahco tools

that said, ive heard some clutch kits will come with a plastic alignment tool to suit, but i have only ever brought OEM

^^^ Yup. Unless your flywheel has been drastically shaved down, then the tool isn't really necessary if you have common sense. A Sharpie marker works well too with some electrical tape wrapped around it. It's amazing what you can come up with when you have an issue at the track that's a 4 hour drive from home lol. But I have found with severely lightened FW's the clutch disk like to fall down when using a stub/marker/extension since the lip around the edge of the FW will have been shaved off - it's even worse with a 4 puck.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the pilot bearing. The auto won't have one installed in the crank and the trans will make a racket if it's missing.

Lol pilot will be installed I've done a ton and a half of reading need to grab trans mounts and clutch kit. Then I'm installing, tired of automatic already. I'm pretty low on cash though can I use the center support bearing on my autos drive line on the 5 speed drive line? I already have a new guibo but not csb

im trying to remember the setup off the top of my head, but i think the CSB is on the rear half shaft anyway which is identical between all models and transmissions its only the front half thats different.