Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Credit Agricole - Tubular Technique

While wandering the pits in a post-stage 6 haze and as hurried fans rushed to catch a glimpse of their favorite riders, BKW set up camp at the Credit Agricole (CA) service course to catch a complete gem-of-an-experience: watching the mechanics prepare for the final stage of the ATOC.

The last of the day's riders hadn't even rolled in before team mechanic Jerome Picart began work on the team's countless wheels. Below view highlights of the well-rehearsed, finely-honed art of gluing tubulars.

Colin - Funniest was the exchange between Jerome and some young suvenir hunters. They were collecting bottles from the teams and tried to take the bottles containing the solvent. Jerome and I could not get past the language gap but the bottles contained a "solvent". It had a turpentine smell to it. It was an interesting choice because in 20 years of bike world experience turpentine was never on the list.

The one trick that I swear by is "masking" the braking surface with blue painters tape. You put it on before the glue, and razor-blade off all the excess, then glue. When you have the tire mounted, cleaning up only involves peeling off the tape rather than getting into solvent and elbow grease.

This is a fine example of the crudeness pro mechanics sometimes exhibit "to get the job done". Cutting a tire off that has perhaps two days of use on it? It's fast. Also dispels the notion that race mechanics are exactly precise, all the time. Memory recalls either a MG or Gewiss mechanic cutting a Bianchis' headtube with a HACKSAW to adapt a riders' position for use with a Rock shox road fork the day before P-R.Beautiful.

Was he using normal "road" tubular glue that stays tacky, or was it a track-type glue that sets up hard? I always wondered if racers do that now that they never have to change a tubular on the side of the road, and because of the higher rolling resistance with the losses from glue flex.

Andrew - I also do the tape over the rim surface trick. However I use electrical tape. It stretches far more than blue painters tape does, making it easy to match the curve of the wheel (eliminating the razor blade step)in one big continuous piece of tape (and if you stretch it a lot, you use less tape). Plus, its something you usually have plenty of lying around the workbench at a shop or at home. Regardless of the tape you use, it is a great trick to keep brake surfaces clean, and I find the more tires I glue that I need it less and less, but it's a good precaution.

Are tubulars as much of a pain as this looks? I mean, I couldn't imagine riding them with out a guy like this around to mount/change tires for me. What happens if you get a flat on the road and have to replace your tire/tube? Do you need to bring all that stuff with you to change your tire? Or do you just count on making the "call of shame" to get a ride home?

I don't think a a lot of people ride tubulars except when supported, at least I don't see too many where I live, but you can change one using tubular tape, which sucks but will work. And you need to carry an extra tire of course, which is bulky but doable.

I've only got a couple years racing experience and only use tubulars for cyclocross, where low pressure and their smoothness over chattering ground definitely make them worthwhile - can't speak to road use though I'm considering it due to the comfortable, float-y ride quality. Mounting them is a bit of a pain, taking around an hour and 5 minutes to glue up a pair, but it's not bad, kind of relaxing even.

My Tubie Ritual (and I'm open to worthy tips if you've got 'em): First turn on your favorite 1 hour long TV show and crack open an Ommegang. Stretch each tire by standing with your foot in it, then pulling up - hard - for a half minute. Using a brush, spread glue on the cloth surface of one tire, hang it up, and let it dry for around 20 minutes, while you spread glue on the other - spreading glue only take 2-3 minutes once you're used to it. Hang that tire up, and as soon as the other is tacky spread on another coat of glue. Watch TV, sip beer during the waiting periods. Repeat until you have 3 coats of glue on. Use the down time to clean the rims, tape the braking surfaces, or repack the bearings. When three coats are on and dried to tacky, mount the tires. Basically two thirds of the tire just slips on, and you can work half of the remainder on by just lifting and dropping it into place. The last 6" is tougher - put it on the floor, put your foot into a gap in the spokes, lift the tire up off the rim (careful not to grasp it by the glue) then drop it into place. Inflate them to a high-ish pressure to seat them, and work the tire around a little on the rim to make sure it is evenly on and dead straight. Finish the beer and let the tire sit for a day or two for the glue to cure.

I've only got a couple years racing experience and only use tubulars for cyclocross, where low pressure and their smoothness over chattering ground definitely make them worthwhile - can't speak to road use though I'm considering it due to the comfortable, float-y ride quality. Mounting them is a bit of a pain, taking around an hour and 5 minutes to glue up a pair, but it's not bad, kind of relaxing even.

My Tubie Ritual (and I'm open to worthy tips if you've got 'em): First turn on your favorite 1 hour long TV show and crack open an Ommegang. Stretch each tire by standing with your foot in it, then pulling up - hard - for a half minute. Using a brush, spread glue on the cloth surface of one tire, hang it up, and let it dry for around 20 minutes, while you spread glue on the other - spreading glue only take 2-3 minutes once you're used to it. Hang that tire up, and as soon as the other is tacky spread on another coat of glue. Watch TV, sip beer during the waiting periods. Repeat until you have 3 coats of glue on. Use the down time to clean the rims, tape the braking surfaces, or repack the bearings. When three coats are on and dried to tacky, mount the tires. Basically two thirds of the tire just slips on, and you can work half of the remainder on by just lifting and dropping it into place. The last 6" is tougher - put it on the floor, put your foot into a gap in the spokes, lift the tire up off the rim (careful not to grasp it by the glue) then drop it into place. Inflate them to a high-ish pressure to seat them, and work the tire around a little on the rim to make sure it is evenly on and dead straight. Finish the beer and let the tire sit for a day or two for the glue to cure.

almost forgot, he is working on a carbon rim and yet is using tools that have been traditionally used on alloy rims. my question for this now adjunct glueing forum, is this. carbon is a very special material and only performs well for its intended purpose. i would think that the use of a wire brush and a scraper [albeit custom], would damage and or weaken the carbon fibers. i was always told to simply use new glue on old glue to soften it up and remove the excess that way. all the while being careful not to damage or scrap the carbon rim. and definitely do not use solvents on carbon rims as it will damage the integrity of the carbon / polymer [resin] bond. so is this just an example of a protour team that has great sponsors and can afford to replace carbon frames / wheels at will or an acceptable maintenance practice.

[as most of your readers probably already know, the dirty little secret of carbon frames / wheels used by protour teams, is that they break and are replaced often, which is a cost prohibitive practice for us mere mortals]

Conti 4k'd PITA to say the least here are some tips and tricks for you guys. Get that tire on a ri,m to pre stretch it just like the pros do, think in terms of weeks if you have the luxury ( days will work but not as nice) Once the tire is ready now the gluing can begin thin even coat on a clean rim hang it and let it dry for a day next work a layer of glue into the base tape if it is conti's do two in a couple hours time. Remember the key difference between a euro pro job and yours is yours must last a season. The pros must last a few days short cuts for them is fine for you it can be deadly. Prepreation is the key and the base layer are key. Do another layer on the rim and let it sit until it becomes dry then add another thin coat of glue next go back to the tire and put on a layer. When the glue on the tire is tacky it is time to do the dance as shown in the pictures above. It is far easer to use your weight and strength to push down to stretch the tire on. (currently i have 4 sets of wheels to do with 4k mavic, campy, DA and campy all have to be done on short order it by no means is fun)

BKW Favorites

Belgium Knee Warmers Defined

For many professional cyclists the Spring campaign is the toughest of the season; it means training from October until March in the worst, character-building weather conditions Europe can dish out. This weather and the suffering that is bicycle racing breed characters known as "hardmen".

Select cyclists tackle these conditions in shorts, long sleeve jerseys or short sleeve jerseys with arm warmers, wind vests, and shoe covers. A true hardman opts to forego the knee or leg warmers and instead chooses an embrocation to cover the knees. The liniment provides warmth for the legs and keeps the blood circulating and muscles supple. Embrocation and the sheen created is affectionately known as "Belgium knee warmers". The hardest of cyclists will sport bare legs in the most ruthless of conditions.

Belgium Knee Warmers are indicitive of the many subtleties that make professional cycling so enthralling.

Dispatches

Profile

I spent 20 years of my life working in the bicycle industry, turning wrenches and selling bikes for some of the industry's best shops. I have extensive experience designing and constructing frames in both steel and titanium and have performed thousands of bike fits. I am passionate about bicycles in all forms. The bicycle provides me with physical and mental health and taps me into a social pipeline that allows me to share my passion with others. I ride as often as possible and love the flow of a hard group ride. Check back for musings about all things road cycling and, especially, the Spring Classics. The devil is in the details and I am an expert in the useless minutia that makes up our discipline.