If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You must register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

That thing has a wicked neck bow in it not to mention the off center splice of the neck wood itself when looking at it from the back. It looks as if it had full tension on it and the neck possibly wasn't dried completely and then the bow became permanent. Yes you have plenty of saddle to shave but once you shave it it is not in the condition you received it in and probably no longer eligible for a return and refund. To the best of my knowledge these guitars did not have a Nitro finish. I believe it is some form of poly which makes that "crack" you mentioned almost not repairable without there being traces of the repair left behind. Honestly I would send it back, Get a full refund, and look for another guitar. These things sold new for between $300-$450 MAP so any repairs are really not worth it in terms of value. Best to have a better starting platform in my opinion that you can enjoy right away without having to sink money into it that you will never recoup. I wouldn't even waste a new set of strings on it. Just my opinion.

Yeah, action looks crazy high. Remember the formula is: Take the amount you want to lower it at the 12th fret, and take DOUBLE that amount off the bottom of the saddle!! Suddenly, that saddle isn't very tall any more. Plus, if you're modifying it, you're keeping it. I'd be hesitant to invest in repairs or to keep. Just one opinion.

In the same spirit, I forgot to mention that what looks like a serious flaw/severe forward bow of the neck mightbe exaggerated by a possible "fisheye lens" effect of the camera?

Hi

I strongly disagree - fisheye picture would have about everything more or less curved. In the picture of PittPastor neck looks straight from nut to about 10th - then comes bow @ 10-14 - and then it is outside picture - at the same time the strings are straight - just put a piece of paper-edge on your screen to verify.

I just looked back at another thread, & realized that the OP had linked the Reverb ad that described this instrument. Most of the description was copied/pasted from other on-line sources, but the ad included the following snippets of text that appear to have originated with the seller:

"Upon very close inspection we could not find a thing out of place on this instrument, it is Minty Mint"

and

"This guitar has been thoroughly inspected and was given a pro set-up . . ."

Both of those statements are hard to believe. I'd take that seller up on their seven-day return policy. And I'd probably argue with them about their re-stocking fee, in this case.

edit: Coincidentally, none of the photos in that Reverb ad depict the string action height. And I'd also ask them to pay for the return shipping. Measure the string action height at the 12th fret, & compare it to the ordinary ranges to see how out of line it actually is. And if you try lowering the saddle height before deciding what to do, use a different saddle blank (so as to keep the one the seller provided, unaltered; his shop policies indicate that the guitar can only be returned in the exact condition in which he shipped it).

Sorry I haven't replied, but I actually was at Stuart Day's shop (the Luthier). He was in the shop and had some time, so I hot-footed it over.

Summary is the guitar is structurally fine. (He liked the sound of the guitar. Commented on it twice.) The bow in the neck was due to the tension rod being almost completely undone. Thankfully, setting the tension correctly took the bow out and greatly reduced the action. After looking it over inside and out, he tells me that all it needs is a set-up.

I'm going to play it for a few days and see how it feels. I am thinking I will probably end up keeping it, at which time, I will have Stuart do a full set-up.

Issues he found and we discussed:

The saddle leans a little bit forward. So, the saddle is either a little too thin, or the slot in the bridge is a little too wide. Either way, the fix is one of two options: A) replace the saddle with a new one (bone this time) that is the right thickness or B) add a veneer to the slot to keep the saddle in place better. I'm leaning towards A since it also benefits the over all tone -- although I do have to remember this is a $300-something guitar. So, that might change my mind. Right now, tho, I'm thinking of replacing it with bone.

One fret stand a little high. This isn't creating any buzzing problems currently, but it could as we drop the action, so he will try to get it to reset, and he will file it if necessary.

Slight bump in the fretboard. I didn't see that one, but he did. And he says he will sand it smooth and even when he does the setup.

That was all he saw during the examination. But, it looks like from a structural standpoint, the Archos is fine. I'll keep everyone posted.

Sorry I haven't replied, but I actually was at Stuart Day's shop (the Luthier). He was in the shop and had some time, so I hot-footed it over.

Summary is the guitar is structurally fine. (He liked the sound of the guitar. Commented on it twice.) The bow in the neck was due to the tension rod being almost completely undone. Thankfully, setting the tension correctly took the bow out and greatly reduced the action. After looking it over inside and out, he tells me that all it needs is a set-up.

I'm going to play it for a few days and see how it feels. I am thinking I will probably end up keeping it, at which time, I will have Stuart do a full set-up.

Issues he found and we discussed:

The saddle leans a little bit forward. So, the saddle is either a little too thin, or the slot in the bridge is a little too wide. Either way, the fix is one of two options: A) replace the saddle with a new one (bone this time) that is the right thickness or B) add a veneer to the slot to keep the saddle in place better. I'm leaning towards A since it also benefits the over all tone -- although I do have to remember this is a $300-something guitar. So, that might change my mind. Right now, tho, I'm thinking of replacing it with bone.

One fret stand a little high. This isn't creating any buzzing problems currently, but it could as we drop the action, so he will try to get it to reset, and he will file it if necessary.

Slight bump in the fretboard. I didn't see that one, but he did. And he says he will sand it smooth and even when he does the setup.

That was all he saw during the examination. But, it looks like from a structural standpoint, the Archos is fine. I'll keep everyone posted.