One could say that it does matter, but it doesn't matter enough to really matter. The argument has to do with the angle of thrust at the time of the power stroke relative to the stresses on the rod and a few other related things. I have always been told that the wrist pin bolt goes on the cam side. However as I visualize it, that may not be the best way. This really could turn into quite a debate. I would be curious to read what Herm has to say about it. Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2

Put them in the way the instructions say, later if you read the same instructions you will not have the question, which way did I put them in and was that right. "The most important thing I left out, DO NOT use any repro wrist wrist bolts, they are NOT any good." Why?

I need to reiterate the "don't use repro wrist pin-bolts". I used replacement modern grade 8 bolts on one engine. Herm, yours lasted 600 miles? Mine went about 300 miles before I developed a wrist-pin knock. I had had one before and was sure it was not a rod bearing. On a long, steep hill, I lost number one rod in the middle of an endurance run. I got the car towed to the motel, and spent a couple hours tearing the car apart and putting it back together. (The funny part about it, is that was the only time I ever took a spare rod with me, and the only time I ever lost a connecting rod bearing.) I replaced the rod with my spare, which by chance happened to also have the stripped almost threadless wrist-pin bolt on it. It took longer to get the piston and rod apart than to tear down and reassemble the rest of the engine. Fortunately, my spare rod had a good original bolt in it. Working up through the bottom of the three dip pan, I checked the other three wrist-pin bolts. They were all tight. Although technically disqualified because we did not quite complete the first day, the next morning, we continued on the run. I knew they were tight, but was concerned about the other three wrist pin bolts because of the one I had changed. We started off running great, and with no sound of a wrist-pin knock. Within thirty miles, I could hear it. Another wrist-pin was beginning to make some noise. It continued to get worse. At a routine stop, I looked ahead on our map. We were already technically disqualified as a DNF (Did Not Finish), so we took about five short easy miles alone to cut about forty hard hilly miles off the route. We rejoined the route with about twenty easy miles to go. Drove real easy and crossed the finish line knocking pretty good. Several people commented about my knocking rod. I had driven the car to the start and was planning to drive it home. Instead I bummed a ride home, left the knocking car at a friends house, and returned a couple days later with my trailer. The next weekend, I tore the engine down again. Replaced the other three wrist-pin bolts with originals after checking over the rest of the engine. No apparent damage done. The car served me well for a few years and last I heard, still sounds good. I had used the new bolts because I was almost out of originals. These bolts were recommended to me by an engine rebuilder. As I said, they were grade 8. The final score was three of the four bolts neatly stripped threads off and became loose. One had not scraped the threads off, yet (a couple threads already broken). They were getting ready to let go. And that in less than 500 miles. I have since bought enough bad rods at swap meets just for the bolts that I will hopefully never use a modern replacement again. Model Ts are tough! In more ways than one. Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2