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Dunno what to suggest other than test the battery before you change that too?

Really feel for your frustration bud.

.

I know Jim I'm afraid to buy another car now... Suffering ptsd lol... Did some more reading and research and also cleared dtcs and re read and the couple codes that were present, all had ( or can be faulty map sensor) under their symptoms... So got myself a multimeter and test voltages coming through the connector and the map sensor itself which should rule out whether it is the map sensor or not...

Did another live reading on the map sensor this morning and being plugged or unplugged the values didn't change... Ordered a used map sensor and checked with the guy if its working and he confirmed it is and that he is a 15 years jlr specialist and asked what issues I was having... So that could be a nice olive branch reaching out to me if I don't get the map issue sorted...

Hope you guys are having a great time merry Christmas in advance everyone huggsss...

Did multimeter test ground in ground on connector and positive in positive and it reads 5.00v which is good powers coming through... Plugged connector into map sensor and connected ground to ground and positive to signal and it reads 4.98 and fluctuates...

Now a working map sensor on idle if I'm correct should read between 1.4v and 1.8v based on that this map sensor is has headed for Shaftesbury Street...

If big one, unplug it, start the car, see if its any better or the same, and check the live reading.

Regarding the sensor is the Y , its very easy to break it cleaning it.
Probably worth a punt on a new replacement.

Hi andy

By the big ones I'm assuming you mean the maf sensors I have 2 of them after the air box those read fine at the live reading one was half the reading of the other maybe 12 and 5gms or something and both would rise and fall based on acceleration... The one on the y the map sensor has all pinpointed to be the culprit on live readings its stuck at 600 would not go up or down on acceleration... And as above is stuck at 5 volt... At 5 volt throttle should be wide open and car doing quite a high speed and based on that it should be pumping in quite abit of fuel... Now as car is idle and its at 5v its chucking in fuel thinking air is coming in full force and because of that injectors readings are high and there is smoke every where at idle... Voltage should rise from 1.4 to 1.8 at idle to high 5v as the pressure increases by the incoming air... Hope I got that correct.. That's what my understanding is after doing all the research of what a map sensor does...please do correct if I'm wrong

They are quite expensive I think I found one from British parts at 50 something but they are closed... A few second hand ones on ebay but not going that route what so ever new or nothing.... I decided to do some surgery on this one, I chopped the top round part off as close as I could to the base and its quite a interesting system in there... You have a pcb and a square maybe 2x2 mm sensor and on top of that sensor is a rubber bubble abit like a contact lense .. Very delicate.. that sits on top of it which is sealed around it... So when the air goes in, it compresses and the pressure In between this bubble and sensor is what the sensor reads... With the oil and what not that gets in there that rubber can deteriorate and degrade and become quite week and split with cleaning or just degrading... which was the case with mine... Interesting surgery though.

So after waiting and waiting I managed to go pick up a new map sensor got home... Cleared codes plugged in new sensor... 2 clicks all lights come up on dash as normal and go out... And then rp and no dsc gone... What a result...

But wait

10 secs later rp comes back on but no, no dsc... Just rp and no limiter on right hand showing... Well that's something...

Read codes again and nothing no codes... Took car for a drive and the harsh gear changing is gone gears change smoothly now and then parked up read codes and now I have this

The dpf one I'm assuming is because previously dpf was removed and deleted and with new pcm programming update its re written over it as a new vehicle with dpf hence that's popping up...

Having a dpf delete and egr delete with a remap should eliminate that as I have a feeling that's bringing up the rp now...

When I switch car off and start again there is no rp but after 5 or 10 secs of having car started rp pops up... Any ideas

So after clearing codes and having car at idle the only code it reads is p132e and give restricted performance 5 secs after start.... Before it even starts to read any dpf or egr related.... They tend to crop up after driving the car... But at idle with codes cleared the only one that crops up is p132e and instant rp...