One is an urban renovation project of a former gas station; the other a new construction in a luxury hotel. One uses the latest in culinary technology; the other relies on straightforward techniques to coax flavor out of ingredients.

Despite their differences, the two restaurants tied for Critics' Choice for this year's best new restaurant.

At Sustenio, 17103 La Cantera Parkway (Éilan Hotel Resort), Southwestern cuisine pioneer Stephan Pyles is the name out front. The menu features many of Pyles' classics that have been around since the 1980s. But the real excitement comes from executive chef David Gilbert, who brings an array of modern techniques that blend beautifully with traditional preparations.

Gilbert's blind tasting menu is perhaps the most exciting culinary development in town in several years and brings national-level quality at prices that are reasonable for the quality.

Instead of culinary fireworks, Bliss, 826 S. Presa St., is about a restrained sense of confident good taste. Readers also tied it for a bronze medal as best new restaurant.

Co-owner Mark Bliss' team cooks pristine ingredients with skill, respect and restraint to produce flavors that are familiar yet still interesting.

Bliss has been cooking in San Antonio for more than 20 years and his fans from throughout the city make the trip to just south of downtown for his comfort food for sophisticated palates.