By-the-yard plastic material inserted into the seams of bustiers, corsets, bodices or any part of a garment where a structured look is desired.

Bow Tie

Man’s tie, square-cut or with shaped ends, tied in a bow under the chin.

Box Pleats

Type of pleating that forms small boxes beginning at the waist around the width of a garment.

Boxer Shorts

Women’s and children’s loose-legged panties of pull-on type.

Boxer/Trunks

Loose-legged panties of pull-on type

Boxy Torso Sloper

Silhouette that ends at the end of the torso and sits away from the body, not fitted.

Break Point/Break line

Point on a garment where the lapel turns back and where the closure is placed, such as on a notched collar jacket.

Breathing room

The empty space that can surround an object in a composition, and allow it to remain unobstructed and easy to see. Some elements need a substantial amount of breathing room around them, or else they seem crushed, cramped or overwhelmingly large for the area.

Bridle

Tape used on the lapel roll line of a jacket.

Brief/Panty

Women’s or girl’s very short panties sometimes made of control stretch fabric with garters added.

Briefcase

Handbag for woman executive which is of briefcase size and features small outside pockets for purse items

Brightness

The lightness or darkness of a color. A light color has brightness.

Brilliance

The intensity or saturation of a color; a measure of grayness of a color; chroma. Grayness is created by adding gray, black, white or the complement to a color. A high intensity color has brilliance.

Broken Hues

Also known as intermediary hues, they have been mixed with gray, black or white; two complementary hues can also make a broken hue.

Brush Tip Technique

A brush stroke technique used in fashion illustration whereby only the tip of the brush is utilized while illustrating.

Buckle

Closure usually made of metal or plastic used to close a garment.

Buckskin

Leather that has been tanned from a deer skin.

Buffalo

Leather skin tanned from a buffalo hide.

Built-Up Shoulder

Garment that has extra padding on the shoulder.

Bust Dart

Dart that ends at the apex and emanates from either the neck, shoulder, side seam or from center front.

Bust Form

Neck to waist dress form with bust cup demarcations.

Bustier

Tight-fitting strapless garment usually with bones in the seams for added structure.

Bustle

Silhouette with a protuberance on the back that extends from the waist to the hip or to the hem.

Button

Decorative ornament used as a trimming or as a functional fastener. Usually made with holes punched in center or a shank on the back, made to slip through a buttonhole or loop.

Button Loop

Thin strip of fabric stitched onto a garment as a closure for a button.

Button Loop

Button loop closure made of thread, cord or bias or non-bias fabric tubing.

Button Placket

Strip of fabric stitched onto a garment either as a finishing detail or as support for buttons and buttonholes.

Button-Down

Button and buttonhole used on the edge of a collar.

Buttonhole

Hole in which a button passes through to close a garment.

Buttonhole Twist

Heavy silk thread used in tailoring and to make handmade buttonholes.

C

Cable Cord

By the yard cotton rope used as filler to make cording or piping. Available in sizes ranging from 1/8″ -1″in diameter.

Caftan

A floor length, long-bell sleeved garment with a slit neck, based off of North African and Middle Eastern robes worn by men.

Calibration

An adjustment of two color-producing devices to help them communicate with each other and produce the same color. For example, a printer and a monitor can be calibrated.

Camisole/Cami

V-neck or scooped neck top with straps.

Camouflage

A decoration on objects to make them blend in with the background.

Cap Height

Vertical measurement from the bicep line to the shoulder/armhole intersection. The length of the bicep to the cap of the sleeve.

Cap Sleeve

Short sleeve ending at or above the bicep with little to no cap ease.

Cape

Garment the covers the body, usually sleeveless though having holds for the arms, worn as a coat.

Capline

Top of the vertical line that measures the bicep to the shoulder/armhole intersection of a sleeve.

Capri/Pedal Pushers/Clam Diggers

Tight-fitting three-quarter length pants, usually with short slit on the outside leg.

Cardigan

Collarless jacket ending at or slightly below the waist.

Cargo Pocket

Large batch pocket, usually used on shorts and pants.

Carpenter Pants

Pants with extra pockets and a loop on the side leg to hold a hammer tool.

Casing

Tunnel made of fabric through which a belt or elastic is encased.

Cat Suit

Skin tight, one piece garment, usually ankle length and with long sleeves.

Catchstitch

Hand hemming stitch resembling a cross-stitch pattern with a series of back stitches starting from left to right, alternating on the body and then the hem.

Center Back

Vertical line denoting the center of the back of a garment.

Center Front

Vertical line denoting the center of the front of a garment.

Chantilly Lace

Delicate net-like lace with a scalloped edge.

Chemise/Shift

Straight-cut dress with few darts and no waistline.

Cheongsam/Qui Pao

A silhouette that references a Chinese-styled dress, made with mandarin collar, short sleeves, and a long slit on one or both sides of the skirt.

Chesterfield Coat

Semi-fitted, straight-cut classic man’s or woman’s overcoat in single or double breasted style, usually with a black velvet collar.

Chiaroscuro

A technique in art that uses variations of highlights and shadows to achieve a 3-dimensional effect.

Child color

In transparency, the child color is created from the two parent colors that are mixed together.

Chroma

The intensity or brilliance of a color; chroma is the opposite of grayness.

Chromatic Hues

Chromatic hues include the spectral hues and their mixtures. If these hues are mixed with achromatic hues, they still are chromatic hues. Only black, white and gray are not chromatic hues, because they have no chroma.

Cinch

Waistline or area that is pulled in very tightly, usually with a wide tie belt.

Circle Skirt

Skirt whose hem circumference forms a circle.

CL

Acronym for crotch level.

Clean Finish

Refers to any method used to finish the edge of an area of a garment such as facings, hems, etc.

Clear Plastic Ruler

Ruler marked with inches or centimeters on clear plastic used in draping, patternmaking, sewing and art so that underneath lines and markings are visible.

Clip

To snip into as in clipping into seam allowance to release a curved seam.

Clippers

Small spring-loaded scissors used to open stitches, seams and assorted other uses in sewing and draping.

Clog

Shoe made with thick sole of wood or cork and the upper is made of leather, cloth, or faux leather.

Closure

The Gestalt principle of perception whereby we perceive a whole shape even when it is missing some edges.

Draped folds forming a stylized neckline on the back of a garment, usually cut on bias grain.

Cowl Neck Blouse

Blouse with a draped cowl neckline cut on bias.

Cowl Neck Front

Draped folds forming a stylized neckline on the front of a garment, usually cut on bias grain.

Cowl Sleeve

Draped folds forming a stylized effect, usually cut on bias grain, on the top of a sleeve.

Cowl Yoke

Inset piece or yoke that is usually cut on bias grain, forming a draped cowl effect.

Crease

Technique used to form a fold or a line such as, down the middle on the front of trousers, or in patternmaking to help fold the paper, or in draping to form a mark on the fabric.

Creaseline

Line formed when folding a pattern over to form a crease.

Crewel Needles

Also known as embroidery needles. Crewel needles have a longer eye for threading multiple strands of thread but otherwise are identical to sharps.

Crimping

A machine stitch that eases fabric into an area of a seam.

Cropped

When the length on a garment, or part of a garment is shortened.

Croquis Figure

Refers to a rough sketch in fashion drawing.

Cross Grain

Grain that goes from selvage to selvage, also known as the weft. Ways to identify muslin cross grain are: 1) perpendicular to length or warp grain, 2) has some stretch to it but not as much as bias grain 3) fuzzier yarn with more slubs than length grain and 4) when folded will not lay flat as length grain, but will be a bit bouncy.

Crossmarks

Marks made when draping that indicate an intersection such as at the side seam/underarm, the shoulder/armhole or any place where 2 lines intersect.

Crotch Depth

Distance from waist to crotch level plus desired ease.

Crotch Extension

Area on a trouser pattern where the crotch measurement extends from center front and center back.

Crotch Length

Combined measurement on the front and back crotch seamlines taken from front waist to back waist.

Crotch Level

Area on a pattern measured from waist to where the crotch starts.

Crystal Pleating

Type of mini pleats seen on dresses, skirts or other areas of a garment.

Cuffs

Band that ends the bottom of a sleeve or a detail on the bottom of pants or shorts that turns up over itself.

Culottes

Knee length pants with inverted pleats on center front and back to give a skirt-like look.

Cummerbund

Sash-like waist wrapping, often pleated to add a decorative touch.

Cup & Fold Method

In patternmaking and draping, when you cup the paper or fabric to make it easier to true the dart.

Curvilinear

The curvy quality of lines or shapes.

Cut Lines

Where seamlines are placed on a garment for a better leather yield.

Cutting Line

In patternmaking and draping the cutting line refers to the outside line of the seam allowance on a pattern and the stitching line on a sloper.

Cutting Mat

Rubber self-healing cutting mat used in patternmaking or for cutting fabric with a rotary blade cutter.

D

Dart

Term for a v-shaped stitched tuck that is used to create shape in a garment.

Dart Legs

The length of a dart, from start to vanishing point.

Dart Length

The length of a dart, from start to vanishing point.

Dart Manipulation

Concept of how to move darts to different areas on the body.

Dart Shape

Shape of a dart, concave, convex, fisheye, straight or curved.

Dart Size

Width and length of the dart pick-up.

Dash

A mark of about 1/4″ long made on a draped muslin indicating areas of the garment such as the front and back waistline, dart pick-up and hemlines.

Delivered cost

The purchase price as it appears on the invoice plus transportation costs incurred

Dhoti Pants

Pant silhouette that is gathered at the waist with an elongated crotch, tapering at the ankle.

Diameter

The width of a circle such as the diameter of a button.

Differentiation

Making a product stand out from the competition in some way, either because of its physical appearance, or through the benefits that it offers to the customer.

Direction

The orientation of a line or shape in a composition. The direction can be horizontal, vertical or diagonal.

Dirndl Skirt

Skirt style where fabric is gathered into a waistband or a yoke.

Direct Operating Expenses

Related to department expenses. It usually includes such expenses as sales, personnel salaries, selling supplies, travel for buying staff, and advertising expenditures for the department.

Discount

Represents a percentage reduction in the billed cost of merchandise offered by the vendor to a buyer.

Dividend

A number to be divided by another number.

Divisor

A number by which another number, the dividend, is divided.

Doc Martens

Popular iconic workboot with air-cushioned soles made popular in the 1960s.

Dominant

The element that has the greatest influence on a composition is said to be dominant. Dominance can exist in color, line, shape or size of area. The second most influential element would be called sub-dominant, secondary or subordinate.

Dot

Mark used in draping to indicate areas such as the waistline, neckline, side sea, armhole and hem.

Double Hiding

When the upper layer of a leather skin separates from the inner layer.

Draping

Process of creating clothing designs by manipulating muslin around a dress form in a three dimensional way resulting in a pattern.

Drawstring

A tie inserted into a tunnel or loops either at the waist or on an other area of a garment. When pulled it forms a gathered effect.

Dress Form

A replica of the human body made out of paper mache (more expensive) or out of fiberglass (less expensive) and then covered in cloth so that pins can be sunk into it during the draping and fitting process.

Dress Maker Pins

Medium weight pins made of steel used in sewing, draping and patternmaking.

Drop Shoulder Blouse

Blouse silhouette where the sleeve cap is moved away from the natural shoulder and the underarm is droppe, creating a more casual look and fit.

Dropped Armhole Sleeve

Relaxed sleeve with little to no cap ease, set into a drop shoulder armhole.

Dropped Waist

Silhouette whereby the natural waist is dropped at or near the hip level.

Duffel

Car coat or a shorter length coat fastened with toggles rather than buttons introduced during WWII and worn by men in British Navy

Dye lot

A batch of dye solution, associated with its color; each batch varies from other batches because of atmospheric differences or qualities of the dye itself.

Dynamic

Energy in a composition that makes the shapes and lines appear to be moving.

E

Ease

Allowing extra measure to the pattern or drape such as at the bust, waist, hip, side seam, sleeve, underarm, crotch, or anywhere else on the pattern so that the garment fits comfortably.

Ease Pinch

Adding an extra measure to the drape, usually between 1/8″ – 1/4″, so that the garment fits comfortably.

Eisenhower Jacket

Waist length, collared, long sleeve jacket made popular by former President Eisenhower.

Elastic

Stretch material sold by the yard.

Elements of color

Hue, value and intensity are the three factors or elements that make up a color.

Elements of composition

Color, line and shape are the three factors that are used to form a composition.

Elbow Circumference

Total measurement taken around the elbow of the arm.

Elbow Dart

One or 2 darts at the elbow to create a fitted sleeve.

Elbow Line

Line that is perpendicular to the sleeve center at the level of the elbow.

Embroidery Needles

Also known as crewel needles. Embroidery needles have a longer eye for threading multiple strands of thread but otherwise are identical to sharps.

Empire

Dress with high waistline just under the bosom defined by an inserted piece of fabric or a seam.

Empire Line

Horizontal styleline that sits underneath the bust.

Employee Discount

Gives employees of the retailer a percentage reduction on the price of merchandise.

End of Month (EOM) Dating

The cash discount period is computed from the end of the month in which the invoice is dated rather than from the date of the invoice itself (It is counted similarly to extra dating).

Energy

The visual movement in a composition. Energy could be tension, dynamic energy, static energy or passive energy.

Envelope

Large narrow handbag made in the shape of a correspondence envelope, usually of clutch-type without handle.

Epaulet

Tabs that are sewn onto a garment such as on military jackets. Historically to hold a soldier’s hat or gloves.

Espadrille

Rope-soled shoe with canvas, leather or faux leather upper. Sometimes they are tied at the ankle.

Even Basting

Simple hand stitch approximately 4-6 stitches per inch used to temporarily hold one or more layers of fabric together.

Extension

Area on a garment where the button and buttonholes or other closure sit.

Extra Dating

Known as X-dating, is calculated from the date of invoice just like regular dating terms. However, unlike regular dating, extra dating grants a specified number of extra days to take advantage of the cash discount period – a total of 40 days.

Extraneous object

An element in a composition that prevents it from being balanced and needs to be removed to achieve balance.

F

Fabric

Yarns that are assembled to be either woven, knitted, felted, braided, netted or bonded together to create material or cloth.

Face

Refers to the right side of the fabric.

Facing

Section on a garment used to clean finish that area for example on a neckline, armhole or pocket top.

Faggoting

Decorative open-worked hand stitch resembling a ladder.

Field

The background, or ground, of a 2-dimensional image; the area surrounding the object.

Figure

The object of a composition; not the background.

Fingerpress

Using your fingers to press an area of the garment flat such as a dart or seam allowance either before or after you have ironed the area.

Fisheye Dart

Curved dart that adds shape to a garment.

Fitted

When a garment sits close to the body.

Fitted Sleeve

Sleeve that has darts at the elbow and is used as a sloper.

Fitted Torso Sloper

Silhouette that is fitted to the body and ends at the bottom of the dress form’s torso.

Fitting

Process of checking to see how a muslin or garment fits so that adjustments can be made.

Flange

Type of stitched and open pleat.

Flap

Section of a garment that covers a pocket.

Flare

Extending out from a straight or natural line such as on a sleeve or the side seam of a skirt, pant or dress.

Flared Skirt

Skirt that extends out from a straight line side seam version.

Flared/Straight Grain-Center

Flare skirt draped with the straight grain on center front and center back.

Flared/Straight Grain-Middle

Flare skirt draped with the straight grain in the middle of each front and back panel.

Flared/Straight Grain-Side

Flare skirt draped with the straight grain on the side seams.

Flat

Low heeled, flat shoe. A technical drawing of a garment used in a tech pack, on a spec sheet or in presentation materials such as line sheets and presentation boards.

Flat Brush Technique

A brush stroke used in fashion illustration that utilizes the side of the brush on the paper when adding paint or ink to an area of the illustration.

Flat Collar

Collar with little to no stand around the neck.

Flat Fell Seam

Type of seam finish whereby one seam allowance covers the other. Often used on jeans or seams where extra strength is required.

Flat Pattern

Two dimensional patternmaking technique used to create designs using paper.

Flex Curve

A flexible measuring device used to measure armholes or other curved areas on a pattern, garment or dress form.

Flounce Hem

Separate ruffled or gathered piece added to the bottom of a garment as a design detail.

Fluted

Rows of tiny pleats in fabric resulting in a 3 dimensional effect.

Fluting

An illusion in a value chart where each gray appears to change value slightly at the borders of its two neighboring values. Fluting, also known as Mach Bands, illustrates how the value of any color makes an adjacent one as different from it as possible.

FOB

Acronym for ‘Free On Board’ referring to transportation costs.

FOB Destination

Vendor pays all transportation costs and owns the merchandise until it arrives at the place designated by the buyer. These terms can also be “FOB Store” or “FOB Buyer’s Warehouse.”

FOB Factory (FOB origin)

Buyer takes title to the merchandise at the point of shipment (the factory). The buyer pays all transportation charges and assumes all risks for the goods while they are in transit.

Focal point

The area of a composition that creates an attraction for the eye, keeping the eye focused on it.

Fold

When a fabric or paper is folded over itself to form an edge.

Fold Line

Place on a pattern where to turn up or under such as at the hem of a garment.

Forecasting

In reference to forecasting color, this refers to trend-spotting companies that determine the colors that will be popular a couple of years in the future. Manufacturers rely on this information to help guide them with their color choices.

Form

A shape that appears to be 3-dimensional in a 2-dimensional composition; a volume.

Fray

When raw edges of a fabric start to unravel.

Free-On-Board (FOB)

Vendor has an agreement and obligation to deliver goods to buyer’s designated port where transfer of ownership takes place.

Freight Prepaid

Freight paid by the vendor or the buyer.

French Cuffs

Cuff on a sleeve that is folded over itself and is usually larger than a regular shirt cuff.

French Curve

Tool used to create curved lines in draping and patternmaking.

French Dart

Bust dart emanates from the side seam close to the waistline resulting in a semi fitted shape.

Fringe Edge

Technique of fraying the fabric yarns to create a fringed edge.

Full Skirt

Any skirt made with several widths of fabric, cut in a complete circle, made with many gores or gathered.

Funnel Neck/Built-Up

Type of neckline where the garment is built up at the shoulders and center back creating a close to the neck effect.

Fusible Interfacing

Support material with a press-on adhesive backing that when ironed with pressure onto the wrong side of a fabric, adds structure to that area. Fusible interfacings are available in various weights, colors and woven non woven.

G

Gamut of color

The range of color, such as those that the eye can see, or those that can be produced by a color-producing device.

Garment Bias

Any bias grain that is not necessarily a 45 degree angled bias.

Gather

Compressing fabric into a smaller amount such as when shirring fabric in a dirndl skirt, or as ruffles.

Gaucho Pants

Wide cropped women’s pants stopping below the knee mid-calf.

Gestalt principles of perception

As identified by psychologist Max Wertheimer, the way we organize objects that we see to help us determine their importance, based on factors such as their similarity or proximity.

a deduction that examines the relationship between inventory turnover and gross margin.

Gross Sales

The total sales for any given period before deducting the retail value of goods returned to the store and/ or making price allowances.

Ground

The background of a 2-dimensional image, placed behind the object.

Guide Lines on Muslin

Marks made on muslin indicating grain and used to balance or control the muslin during the draping process.

Gusset

A piece of fabric inserted into an area of a garment to permit greater movement. Gussets are used at the underarm, the pant crotch on sides of handbag and shoes to create a wider opening.

H

Hair Canvas

Support material used in jackets and coats or in garments where a more structured look is desired.

Halter Top

A top with a strap encircling the neck used to support the garment to the body, leaving the shoulders and the back bare.

Ham

Ironing tool, shaped like a ham, used when pressing certain shaped areas of a garment.

Hand

The feel of a fabric: smooth, stiff, soft, drapey, rigid, crisp or pliable.

Hand Baste

Simple hand stitch approximately 4-6 stitches per inch used to temporarily hold one or more layers of fabric together.

Hand Pick Stitch

A hand stitch with a small stitch pick-up. It is used either as a decorative holding stitch such as around a lapel edge, or in place of a machine stitch to securely hold a zipper in place such as on pile fabrics.

Handkerchief Hem

Pointed design detail on a dress, blouse or skirt hem that mimics the points of a handkerchief.

Harem Pants

Bouffant pants gathered into bands at the ankles.

Harmony

Colors that are pleasing together are said to be in harmony with each other.

Hem

Finished portion of a garment such as a sleeve, skirt, dress or pant bottom. Or, the act of finishing the end of a garment.

Hem Allowance

The amount of fabric allocated to hemming an area of a garment.

Hem Binding

By-the-yard tape used to finish a hem or other raw edge of a garment. Also known as seam binding.

Hem Marker

Tool that measures from the floor up, the hem of a garment. Usually using chalk.

Hemline

Line that denotes the bottom of the hem before it is turned up and finished.

Hemming Stitch

A simple running stitch that temporarily keeps the hem up before it is permanently stitched.

Hide

The skin of a large animal such as a hose or cow.

High Neck Cowl

Softly draped design detail that sits high on the neck.

High Point Shoulder

The shoulder/neck intersection point on a dress form or a garment.

Hiking/Cargo Pants

Casual pants with large bellows pockets on the side legs and back.

Hip

Area of the figure measured at 7″ down from the natural waistline.

Hip Curve

Tool with a curve that is used in draping and patternmaking to true the hip and assorted other areas of a pattern.

Hip Level

Horizontal styleline that is measured at 7″ down from the natural waistline and is level to the floor.

Pants cut with fullness on both the outer and inner seams to give a bell flare at the hem.

HL

Acronym for hip level or hipline.

Holding Stitch

A machine or hand stitch used to hold gathers, pleats or other area of a garment in place, before a permanent stitch is made.

Hong Kong Finish

Type of seam or hem finish where the edges of each seam are opened and bound with fabric.

Hook and Eye

Two part metal closure that hooks into a loop and is often used on garment waistbands, tops of zippers and other areas, to close a garment.

Horsehair

By-the-yard stiffening material used to add structure to areas of a garment such as hems and collars . Available in various widths and colors.

Hue

The color name, such as red, blue, green and yellow, based on the length of the light wave.

Hymo

Type of hair canvas interfacing available in different weights and either fusible or non-fusible.

I

Illuminated

An area brightened up or lit by light from another source; also the decoration on a manuscript.

Implied curvilinear

A curvy movement indicated by the placement of a series of shapes on a curve in a composition. It is implied because no curvy line is actually drawn.

Indirect Operating Expenses

Expenses not related to a specific department. It includes store maintenance and security, senior executive salaries, and insurance.

Inseam

Seam area on a garment such as the inside of a pant leg or the inside length of a sleeve. Men’s pants sizes are measured from this length.

Inseam Pocket

Pocket that is hidden or inset into a section a garment such as in a seam.

Inset Armhole

The seam in men’s trousers, from the crotch to the them. Leg length for men’s pants is measured by this seam.

Inset Pocket

Pocket that is cut into a garment such as a welt pocket on a jacket.

Intensity

The saturation, chroma, brilliance or strength of a color as compared to gray. A high intensity color has no gray in it. Low intensity colors have more grayness, and are created by adding gray, black, white or the complement to a color.

Interfacing

Support material used on areas of a garment to give the it, shape, body and support. Can be woven, non woven, fusible or non-fusible.

Interference phenomenon of light

The obstruction of a ray of light with another medium such as oil, which causes a different hue to appear; also known as iridescence. We see interference colors in oil slicks, butterfly wings, bird feathers and the inside of oyster shells.

Interlining

Material used inside coats and jackets for warmth such as polyfil or goose down.

Interstitial

A narrow area that is in-between two shapes.

Inventory turnover

See Stock Turnover.

Inverted Pleated

Type of pleat that is hidden under two pieces of fabric on a garment.

Iridescence

The interplay of rainbow-like hues that arises from interference of light waves by another medium such as oil or bird feathers. Objects that produce iridescence are opals, butterfly wings, peacock feathers, the mother-of-pearl that we see inside oyster shells, and oil slicks.

Iron

A device used to flatten an area or areas of a garment.

Ironing Board

Padded and covered device used to iron garments and various other areas of garments.

Round neckline that fits close to the neck and accentuates the wearer’s jewelry.

Jodhpur Pants

Riding pants with narrow legs that widen substantially at the hips.

Juliet Sleeve

Long sleeve with short puffed top and fitted on the lower arm and wrist.

K

Kangaroo Pocket

Pouch like pocket on the front of a garment.

Keyhole

High round neckline made with a teardrop or keyhole piece cut out at the center front.

Kick Pleat

Pleat on a skirt or dress that adds movement to the circumference of that garment.

Kilt

Pleated skirt, usually made from plaid fabric that wraps to one side and is held in place with a large pin ornament.

Kimono

Wrap robe silhouette of Japanese origin where either the body and sleeves are cut as one or where sleeves are straight and set in at right angles to the body.

Knickers

Type of short pants, ending right below the knee with a cuff and are fastened with either a buckle, button or elastic.

Knife Pleat

Sharp even one directional pleats measuring 1/2″ to 1″ to 1″ wide.

L

L-Square

Tool shaped like an “L” used in draping and patternmaking.

Lace Edge Binding

Type of lace binding used to finish the edges of hems or as a decorative detail.

Lacing

Using cord or fabric strips to close a garment as on the front of pants, skirts, corsets or anyplace where a decorative closure is desired.

Landed cost

The purchase price as it appears on the invoice plus transportation and import/ duty costs incurred.

Lantern Sleeve

Two piece sleeve that flares out to form a lantern-like effect.

Lapel

The turn back portion of a front opening, where the closure starts on the front.

Layered Skirt

Skirt made of tiers in varying lengths

Leather

Technically all animal skins are leather however the name leather is most often associated with the fur-bearing or outside of a leather skin, also known as nappa or the grain side.

Leg o’Mutton Sleeve

Sleeve with full top gathered or pleated into armhole and tapered to wrist where it looks like a regular sleeve.

Length Grain

In a plain weave textile lengthwise, also known as the warp, is the strongest grain. Ways to identify muslin length grain are: 1) parallel to the selvage, 2) has little or no stretch to it, 3) length grain yarns are stronger and smoother, unlike crossgrain yarns which are slubby, and 4) when folded it lays flat unlike the crossgrain which will be a bit bouncy.

Lengthwise Grain

In a plain weave textile the lengthwise, also known as the warp, is the strongest grain. Ways to identify muslin length grain are: 1) parallel to the selvage, 2) has little to no stretch to it 3) length grain yarns are stronger and smoother, unlike crossgrain yarns which are slubby, and 4) when folded it lays flat unlike the crossgrain which will be a bit bouncy.

Line of composition

The major orientation of the lines in a composition; the type of line in the composition that has the most influence over the mood and artistic message. There is often a secondary line of composition with slightly less influence.

Linear perspective

Lines and forms on a 2-dimensional surface that give the illusion of distance.

Lining

Separate garment made out of lightweight material that lines the inside of a garment adding shape and comfort while covering the inner seams and structure of the outer shell.

Local color

The color ascribed to an object irrespective of the lighting situation. We don’t really know whether every object has its own local color, since we only see relative to the lighting situation.

Loop Turner

Metal tool with a latch and hook end used to turn fabric tubings inside out.

Luminous

Radiating or reflecting light; the source of light.

Luster

The gleam of reflected light that we see on fabrics such as silk or leather. Within the category of luster are the qualities of luminosity and iridescence.

M

Machine Basting

Long temporary machine stitches sewn at approximately 4- 6 stitches per inch which are later snipped every few inches and removed.

Magic Rub Eraser

White eraser used in fashion drawing.

Mandarin Collar

Standing-band collar that extends up on neck not quite meeting at center front.

Marker

Schematic plan of graded pattern parts by size of a particular garment style. Markers can be made manually or by computer.

Markdown

A reduction in the original or previous retail price of an item or group of items.

Marking

The act of placing pencil, chalk or pen marker notations while draping to indicate areas that will later be trued on the table.

Markup

The difference between the amount the retailer pays a vendor or manufacturer and retail price sold to the end consumer. (It could be stated in dollars or percent).

Mary Jane

Shoe with a strap covering the instep of the foot.

Master Pattern

Name given to the original graded patterns for a particular style from which copies or tracings are made.

Match

To line up, as in matching notches or a plaid or stripe, at the side seam on a given style.

Mechanical Pencil

Lead pencil with holder used in patternmaking.

Mercerized Cotton

A chemical finish added to thread to give strength and luster.

Merchandise Department

A group of related merchandise for which separate expense and merchandising records are kept for the purpose of determining the profit of this grouping.

Metamerism

A pair of colors that are different under one light source but appear to be the same under another type of light source. They are a metameric match. This difference in their appearance happens because the colors are not a spectral match; that is, they do not have the same spectral reflectance curve.

Metameric match

Two samples of colors, as in paint, that look different under different light sources.

Meter

In music, meter is the beat; the background pulse that you feel that makes you want to tap your foot.

Middle Gray

The value we call middle gray appears to be the point halfway between black and white.

Middy/Sailor collar

Flat collar that is wide in the back then tapers into nothing in the front.

Midriff

A top silhouette that ends under the bust leaving the rib cage bare.

Midriff Yoke

A separate piece on a top, blouse or dress that hugs the rib cage of the body.

Milliners Needle

Needles that are longer than sharps and used for basting, pleating and by milliners.

Minaudire

A small jeweled handbag usually used for eveningwear.

Miter

A diagonal seam at a square corner, such as at the bottom of a skirt vent or sleeve vent. Also, when a plaid or stripe comes together at a 45 degree angle such as on a side seam.

Moccasin

Shoe based on footwear worn by Native Americans.

Monochromatic

Having one hue.

Mood Board

Presentation board used to help sell a designer’s collection concept for a particular season.

Motorcycle Jacket

Zipper front black leather jacket ending right below the waist with several pocket zippers. Worn by motorcycle gangs such as the Hell’s Angels.

Muffler

Accessory used around the neck for warmth.

Mushroom Pleating

Type of thin pleating resembling the underside of a mushroom cap.

Muslin

Plain weave fabric used in draping and available in a variety of weights, from fine to heavy.

N

Nap

The direction of the pile on a fabric such as velvet or corduroy. Patterns must be layed-out in one direction, usually nap smoothed up, before cutting.

NB

Acronym for neckband.

Neck Dart Bodice

Bodice where the dart emanates from the neckline and vanishes at the apex.

Neckband

Thin strip of fabric inserted into a neckline and used as a collar or collar stand.

Neckline

Contour of the neck from front to back.

Negative space

The background surrounding the lines and forms in a 2-dimensional composition.

Nehru Collar

Type of stand collar popularized by Indian Prime Minister Nehru.

Net Sales

The dollar volume of merchandise sold, also known as sales volume.

Nightgown

One piece sleepwear garment.

Nightshirt

One piece sleepwear garment reminiscent of a man’s shirt.

NL

Acronym for neckline.

Non-woven

Fabric that is made by fusing fibers together as in interfacing and felt material.

Norfolk Jacket

Single breasted jacket with vertical front pleats and a self belt.

Notch Collar

Type of collar that when connected to a neckline lapel, creates a notch like effect.

Notch Collar Blazer

Classic jacket style with notch collar and patch pockets.

Notcher

Metal tool used to make notches on patterns.

Notches

Marks made on patterns to indicate where seams align, where hems are turned and other key matching points that are necessary when constructing a garment.

Nubuck

Grain side of leather that has been sanded or buffed to give a slight nap finish.

O

Oak tag

Heavy weight paper, green on back, manila-colored on face, used for pattern slopers.

Obi

Sash-like belt as seen on a Japanese Kimono.

Object

The figure in a representational composition; the opposite of the background.

Opaque

A surface that transmits no light through it, made of materials ranging from soft fabrics or rubber to hard materials like plastic or metal.

Open-Ended Dart

Dart that is not sewn to the vanishing point.

Open-To-Buy (OTB)

A revolving account that is used to plan merchandise for retailers. It is a critical financial reserve that allows buyers to replenish inventory with reorders of the top sellers during the merchandise period

Operating Expenses

The cost of operating the business. The expenses incurred by the retailer for general administrative business activities during any given period. These expenses are not related to the production of goods and services.

Organic

A word that describes lines or shapes that are curvy and do not follow the shape of a recognizable geometric form; lines or shapes with no sharp edges.

Organza

Sheer fabric with some rigidity to it. Available in cotton, silk or a blend.

Orientation

The direction in which a line or shape leads.

Overcast Seam

Seam finish done either by machine with a zig-zag stitch or by hand using an overcast stitch.

Overcast Stitch

A diagonal hand stitch covering an edge, to keep the edge from fraying.

P

Padstitch

Hand stitches made on the diagonal joining 2 pieces of cloth together to add shape and structure such as on the under side of a jacket collar and lapel.

Pajama

Two Piece sleepwear garment.

Palazzo Pants

Long wide-legged pants.

Pant Form

Bifurcated dress form waist to ankle.

Paper-bag Waist

Pant or skirt design detail that is cinched in at the waist usually with a drawstring and ruffles on the top.

Parent color

In an illustration of transparency, the parent color is one of the two that are mixed together to produce a “child” color.

Parallel Dart

Side by side darts.

Parka

A hooded outerwear jacket ending at the hip or slightly lower.

Passive energy

Acceptance of, or a non-moving obstruction to, nearby elements. Curves are examples of passive reaction to the adjacent elements.

Patch Pocket

Pocket that sits on top of a garment.

Pattern

A predictable arrangement of lines and shapes using repetition and other techniques.

Pattern

Paper or muslin guide of a garment design which is cut out of fabric.

Pattern Layout

Arranging pattern pieces of a garment on fabric or paper to get the best possible yield.

Pattern Making

Two-dimensional method of creating a garment or accessory using pattern paper.

P&L

Acronym referring to ‘Profit & Loss’.

Pea/Reefer Jacket

Double-breasted outerwear jacket popularized by the U.S. Navy.

Peaked Lapel

Notch collar effect where the lapel points up.

Peasant Blouse

Ethnic style blouse with a gathered top and waist. Sometime will be smocked or embroidered.

Peasant Sleeve

Full sleeve gathered at top and sewn into a band or cuff at the bottom.

Peg-Top Skirt

Skirt with a gathered or pleated full waist that tapers at the bottom.

Pegged Pants

Pants with a gathered or pleated full waist and that taper at the ankle.

Pencil Leg/Stovepipe/Cigarette

Slim fitting pants that are the same width at the knee and at the ankle.

Penny Loafer

Flat shoe with a place to insert a coin on the vamp or instep.

Perception

The way the human brain shapes our understanding of what we see.

Peplum

Skirt like effect created either in one piece or as an insert into the waist.

Perfecting

In patternmaking, a term that refers to defining your lines.

Petal/Tulip Sleeve

Sleeve that wraps across the front creating a petal effect.

Peter Pan Collar

Flat collar with rounded ends in the front.

Petersham

Support material heavier than grosgrain and used as an interfacing.

Pick Stitch

Small hand stitch used for sewing areas of the garment in place of a machine stitch such as the zipper on velvet and around the collar of a jacket lapel.

Picture Plane

The flat surface – the paper or canvas – of the 2-dimensional composition. It is a vertical plane. The top, bottom and side edges of the composition define the limits of the picture plane, and we say they are on the picture plane level.

Pigment

Coloring matter in the form of insoluble powder, which is mixed with an aqueous or oil base to make paint.

Pilgrim

Flat collar extending onto the shoulder with pointed front ends.

Pin

Steel device used in patternmaking and sewing to hold fabric or paper while cutting and in draping to secure fabric to the dress form.

Pin Basting

Using pins to hold layers together before sewing or during a fitting.

Pin Tuck

Narrow stitched down tuck usually in clusters used as decorative details on blouses as well as other areas of a garment.

Pink

Using a pinking shears to finish the edge of a fabric to keep it from fraying or as a decorative touch.

Pinking Shears

Scissors with a serrated blade used to finish the edges of seam or as a decorative touch.

Piping

Folded strip of cloth, sometimes with a cord insert, sewn into a seam or on a garment edge as a trim.

Piping Edge

Decorative trim used to finish edges of a garment.

Pitch

In music, how high or how low the notes are.

Pivot

The act of holding in one place with a pencil or pin and then shifting a pattern to another direction, for example when shifting a dart from shoulder to the side seam.

Pivot Method

In patternmaking, the process of shifting a pattern to another area on a pattern. For example when shifting a dart from neck to shoulder.

Pivot Point

The place where a pivot takes place such as at the vanishing point of a dart or at the apex.

PL

Acronym for princess line.

Placket

Piece that clean finishes an area such as along center front or on a sleeve, allowing for buttons and buttonholes.

Plate Screw

Screw in the middle of the metal plate of a dress form’s armhole.

Pleat

To fold material flat and either stitch down or leave loose to add extra fullness to a garment. Or, the act of turning material over and pressing it flat.

Pleat Depth

Fold of fabric usually pressed flat but sometimes left unpressed. When used in a skirt, blouse or dress, it is sometimes stitched down at the top of the garment to make it hang better.

Pleat Underlay

Amount of material allotted to create a pleat.

Ply

The act of laying one layer on top of another.

Pocket

Garment detail that can be applied in different ways: on top as in a patch pocket, as a bag-type that is inset into a garment as in a welt pocket, or sewn into a seam as in an inseam pocket.

Point

The end of something such as the end point of a dart.

Polo Shirt

Short sleeved knit shirt with a ribbed collar and half placket front.

Positive space

The objects in a composition.

Preshrunk

Fabric that has been shrunk before cutting to avoid additional shrinkage once the garment is sewn and pressed.

Press

Ironing a garment or fabric. Always best to iron with the direction of the grain.

Presser Foot

Sewing machine attachment that holds the material in place during the sewing process.

Presser Mitt

Padded mitt used to press areas of a garment where an iron can’t reach.

Pressing Cloth

Piece of fabric used while pressing a garment to avoid shine marks on the right side of fashion fabric.

Pressure & Release brush stroke

A brush stroke technique used in fashion illustration. The process of applying pressure on the tip of the paint brush as you stroke and then releasing the pressure as you lift the brush off the paper. This technique covers the area with paint or ink and results in the pooling of paint or ink which adds depth to the illustration.

Presto Correction Pen

Tool used to make corrections to fashion drawings.

Primary Hues

These hues cannot be attained by mixing other colors. Red, yellow and blue are the three pigment primary hues; red, blue and green are the three primary hues in light.

Princess Bodice

Any dress with fullness protruding in back from waist to hem.

Princess Dress

Dress with vertical stylelines that on the front start at mid shoulder, go through the apex, continues straight down and end at the hem. On the back the princess line starts at mid shoulder, curves along the middle of the back and ends at the hem.

Princess Kimono

One piece bodice and sleeve garment, traditional to Japanese costume.

Princess Lines

Stylelines that divide the middle of each panel of the front and back of a garment. Princess lines must transect the apex or be placed within 1″ of the apex for proper fit.

Princess Seam

Seams of a princess line design.

Profile

A description of the color space of a printing or viewing device; a list of all the colors it can produce based on its system of primary hues. Because devices such as scanners and printers, and monitors, have different systems of primary hues, they have different profiles.

Profit

The net gains after cost of handling merchandise and operating expenses have been deducted. It is determined by subtracting the Operating Expenses from the Gross Margin.

Profit and Loss (P&L) Statement

A summary of the income and expenses of a business.

Proximity

In the same area.

Puff

Short sleeve that is gathered at the top and at the bottom.

Puff-Top Sleeve

Short sleeve gathered, either at the armhole or at the cuff band or both, producing a rounded shape.

Purchases

The Billed Cost of new goods during the period, minus any returns to or allowances from the vendor.

Q

Quantity Discount

A discount offered to buyers when a specified quantity of goods is purchased. It is a percentage discount to be deducted from the billed cost when a predetermined quantity is purchased.

Quilted

Two fabrics stitched together either by machine or by hand with a layer of batting in between to create a raised effect.

Quilter Ruler

Clear plastic ruler with holes in the middle along the length of the ruler.

Quilting Needles

Also known as betweens needles. Quilting needles are shorter than sharps and have a small rounded eye for making fine stitches on medium to heavyweight fabrics. They are mostly used in tailoring and in quilting.

Quotient

A result obtained by dividing one quantity by another.

R

Radial balance

Balance that is achieved by elements that start in the center and move out along a radius, like the spokes of a wheel.

Radius

The line measured from the center of a circle.

Raglan Armhole

Stylized armhole that starts either at the neckline, the shoulder or at center front and ends below a traditional set-in sleeve armhole.

Raglan Sleeve

Sleeve that fits into raglan armhole.

Receipt of Goods Dating Retail Price

The price at which the stores offer merchandise for sale.

Redingote

A coat belonging to an dress/coat ensemble.

Refraction

Light waves bend and split up into their component parts when passing through a medium such as the lens of a prism. We call those component parts the seven spectral hues.

Relationship of hues

Several relationships exist as a result of the distance the hues are from each other on the color circle – for example, complements.

Released Dart

Slightly fitted coat matched to a dress to make an ensemble

Representational art

Art that looks like real life objects.

Return on Investment (ROI)

A percentage of gain realized from an investment.

Regular Dating

One of the most common types of dating; it allows the cash discount to be taken within a specified period (usually 10 days) of time from the date of invoice.

Rever

Refers to a lapel on a jacket, blouse, vest or coat.

Reverberation

A quality of sound that makes it seems to come from different locations, making the audio space bigger or smaller.

Rhythm

In music, how the beat sounds over time; how the sounds link to each other.

Riding/Hacking/Equestrian Jacket

Single breasted jacket cut full at the hip for horseback riding or sometimes can be pleated in the back to add extra fullness.

Rip-out

Process of removing sewing stitches.

Rods

Photoreceptors in our retinas that allow us to see light and dark.

Roll line

The line at which a collar turns over as in a roll collar.

Rolled Collar

Collar that sits high on the back neck and whose neck shape is a straighter line than that of a flat collar.

Rolled Cuff

Extension of the sleeve which is folded up to form a turned-up cuff.

Roller Tool

Tool used to flatten seams on leather and suede.

Rotary Blade Cutter

Cutting device used in combination with a cutting mat to cut fabric and paper.

Round Brush

Paint brush used in fashion illustration. Available in assorted sizes.

Ruffled Hem

Nylon bag with straps fitting over shoulders so that it can be worn on the back

Running Stitch

A stitch used to permanently close a seam or to hold down gathers and pleats.

S

Saddle Shoe

Flat shoe with a 2 tone vamp or instep.

Safari Jacket

Casual belted jacket with either patch or bellows pockets on top and bottom.

The intensity, brilliance or strength of a color as compared to gray. A saturated color has no gray in it.

SBL

Acronym for shoulder blade level.

Scalloped Edge

Decorative edge mimicking the edges of a seashell.

Scarf

Accessory used around the neck for warmth.

Scintillation

Two colors in the same visual space that seem to vibrate against each other.

Scissors

Handled instrument with two opposing sharp blades for cutting paper and fabric. It is advisable to dedicate your scissors for cutting paper only, and not fabric, to maintain the sharpness of the blades.

Scoop neck

Neckline shape that is low and curve and extends to the shoulders.

Seam Allowance

Amount of extra material that extends beyond the stitching line.

Seam Binding

By-the-yard tape used to finish a hem or other raw edge of a garment. Also known as hem binding.

Seam Finish

Choosing the appropriate seam finish for a particular fabric and style, to keep the seam edge from fraying.

Seam Gauge

Ruler with an adjustable tab used to mark areas of a garment such as buttonholes, pocket placement and hems.

Seam Grading

Trimming seam allowances at different widths to eliminate bulk on the seam.

Seam Guide

Sewing machine device used to measure the distance from the needle to the stitching line while sewing. Can be a machine attachment or the magnetic type that can be placed on top of the machine surface.

Seam Ripper

Tool used to open seams or rip out stitches.

Seamline Pocket

Pocket that is placed in the seam of a garment. Also known as an inseam pocket.

Secondary Hues

These hues are obtained by mixing two primary hues together; they are green, orange and violet.

Secondary line of composition

The secondary line of composition has slightly less influence than the major line of composition.

Selvage

Finished edges on fabric in the length or warp grain.

Semi Fitted Torso Sloper

Silhouette that is somewhat fitted to the body and ends at the end of the torso.

Semi-aniline Skin

Leather skin with a small amount of surface treatment to obscure marks and blemishes.

Set-in Sleeve

Sleeve that sits within a natural armhole as compared with a sleeve that sits in a drop shoulder or stylized armhole.

Setting a Straight Sleeve

Process of gathering a sleeve’s cap and carefully mounting it to the armhole of a garment.

Sewing

To join together by either hand or machine stitches.

Shade

A hue mixed with black.

Shading

Variations in color, such as in a leather or suede skin, or in a velvet or other pile fabric where the nap causes shading.

Shank

Type of button with an extra piece under the button cap that makes it easier to pass a button through a buttonhole. Thread shanks can be added to sew-through buttons to get the same effect.

Shawl

Accessory used around the neck and upper body for warmth and style.

Shawl Collar

Collar that is cut in one piece or has a seam at center back that ends at the breakpoint of the front opening of garment.

Shearling

Leather tanned with the hair left on and not sheared off.

Shears

Instrument with two opposing sharp blades for cutting fabric. Fabric shears are generally heavier with one handle bigger than the other for better balance when cutting through layers of fabric. It is advisable never to use your fabric shears for cutting paper as this will dull the blades.

Sheath Dress

Semi-fitted dress that gets its shape by waist dart or a French dart.

Shell

Sleeveless top that buttons in back.

Shell Fabric

The outside of the garment.

Series Discount

A trade discount expressed as a series of discounts. See trade discount.

Shift

In patternmaking, the process of shifting a pattern to another area on a pattern. For example when shifting a dart from neck to shoulder.

Shift Dress

Dress that hangs straight from the underarm to the hem.

Shirring

Running one or more stitches parallel to the other for the purpose of forming gathers. Three or more rows of gathers made by small running stitches in parallel lines.

Shirt Tailored

Refers to the hem of a classic men’s shirt that is longer and curved at the bottom and higher at the sides.

Shirtwaist Dress

Dress utilizing design details of a me’s classic tailored shirt.

Shirtwaist Sleeve

Dress with top styled like a tailored shirt, usually buttoned from neck to waist and made with either a full or straight skirt.

Shortages

When the physical inventory count is smaller than the book inventory indicates that it should be.

Short Knife

Short-handled blade tool used for cutting patterns out of leather skins on a special leather cutting board.

Short Shorts/Hot Pants

Shorts that end at the crotch line.

Shoulder Blade Level

Pants of any length cut to look like a skirt which hangs similar to a divided skirt

Shoulder Pads

Objects used to add shape and structure to the shoulder of a garment. Made out of cotton or polyester, shoulder pads range in size and shape to fit the desired finished look of a particular design.

Shoulder Seam

Distance between the neckline and the armhole.

Shoulderline

Line on a dress form indicating the shoulder from neck to armhole ridge.

SHS

Acronym for shoulder seam.

Sidebars

Minor areas of interest that occur when visually obstructive colors, shapes, or borders break up the surface of the composition into sections.

Side Dart Bodice

Bodice with a dart emanating from the side seam to the apex.

Side Pleats

Fabric folded in one direction and pressed flat creating a pleat.

Side Seam

Side of the body or the dress form.

Silhouette

The line or shape of a particular design.

Silk Pins

Thin steel pins that are easily placed into silk and other fine, lightweight fabrics.

Simultaneous contrast

The effect that two colors have on each other when they are in the same visual space. All colors are perceived relative to the surrounding colors.

Six-Month Merchandise Plan

Projects the sales, inventory, and profit goals for a department or an entire store for six months.

Sizing

Finish on fabric to give fabric added body.

Skeletal Profit and Loss Statement

A shortened form of the income statement.

Skin

The pelt of a small animal as compared to that of a hide which is a large animal.

Skirt

Lower portion of a dress or a separate garment starting from the waist to above or below the knee or ankle.

Slash

The act of cutting into material to release it, as in releasing the neckline while draping or slashing into the waist when dropping a flare for a flare skirt.

Slash & Spread Method

Process used in patternmaking when adding fullness to a garment design such as slashing a sleeve sloper to create a puff sleeve.

Sleeve Band

Piece that is attached to the bottom to finish off a sleeve.

Sleeve Board

An small narrow ironing board used to iron sleeves and other areas of a garment.

Sleeve Cap

Top portion of a sleeve that is gathered and then set into an armhole.

Sleeve Header

Narrow pad made of cotton or poly batting used to add shape and structure to a sleeve cap.

Sleeve Placket

Piece of fabric that is attached to a slit to finish the sleeve.

Sleeve Sloper

A basic sleeve block that is made from body measurements and is the basis for all other sleeve stylizations.

Slide

Metal or plastic ornament that enables tabs on garments to adjust.

Slingback

Backless shoe with a back strap to hold the shoe in place.

Slip Dress

Straight or semi fitted dress with shoulder straps.

Slip-Baste

Basting two layers of fabric together using a slipstitch.

Slipstitch

Hand stitch created by taking up one thread from the underside of the fabric, then slipping the needle through the folded edge of the hem to hide the stitch repeating the process to complete the hem.

Slit

Opening on a garment that adds movement such as on the side seam of a skirt, shorts, or jacket.

Sloper

Basic pattern or block without seam allowances. Slopers can be developed from body measurements or by draping on a dress form.

Smocking

Decorative gathered stitch often seen on ethnic peasant blouses, the tops of skirts and pants and on childrenswear blouses.

Smoking Jacket

Formal styled jacket usually with velvet or satin collar either notch or shawl collared.

Snaps

Prong and socket closure made of metal or plastic used in place of a button and buttonhole.

Space

An open area of background in a 2-dimensional composition.

Spectator

Two-toned flat shoe or pump made in contrasting colors of usually white and a contrasting color.

Spectral hues

The seven hues that can be refracted from the white light of the sun (ROYGBIV).

Spectral reflectance curve

The wavelengths of light that are reflected by a color and not absorbed into it. It determines the spectral hue of the color.

Spectrophotometer

An instrument that measures the light wavelengths that are absorbed into a surface of a material, to determine its color.

Split complements

The two hues adjacent to the complement of a hue. For example, the complement of violet is yellow, but the split complements are red-yellow and green-yellow.

Split Skirt

Shorts that stop above the knee with front and back inverted pleats made to look like a skirt.

Spread

To lay fabric out on a table.

Spread

The amount of distance on a men’s shirt between the collar points.

Squared Off

Patternmaking term that refers to creating a right angle at an intersection such as when trueing centerfront neckline and centerfront waistline.

SS

Acronym for side seam.

Stability

A shape that feels steady and unwavering.

Stadium Coat

Three quarter length coat with a hood and toggle closure.

Stand Collar

Collar with a neckband and collar attached.

Static

A non-moving type of energy in a composition.

Stay

Material used to add stiffness and support to an area of a garment such as a plastic stay in the collar point of a shirt or a piece of web tape to support the shoulder of a knit top.

Staystitch

Machine or hand stitch used to control an area and keep it from stretching.

Stepping-stones

Elements with a graduating relationship that move the eye from one point to the next to help continuity within the composition.

Stiletto

Very high, high heel pump.

Stirrup Ski Pants

Pants with a piece of elastic or an all-in-one strap that goes under the foot to keep the pants in place.

Stitch Length

Amount of stitches per inch for a given fabric. The tighter the fabric weave the closer the stitch length. For example for a fine silk charmeuse you need 12 snitches per inch while a bulky thick wool boucle would require 6-8 stitches per inch, as would leather.

Stitch-in-the-Ditch

An inconspicuous machine stitch placed next to a previously stitched seam to hold down another area of the garment such as on a waistband, a facing or when making a Hong Kong bound hem finish.

Stock-Sales Ratio

A method of inventory planning that examines the beginning of month stock to the net sales for that month.

Stock Turnover

The number of times that the average stock turns into net sales (i.e., is sold) during a given period of time.

Straight Grain

In the natural direction of the weave, such as in line with the cross grain yarns or in line with the length grain yarns.

Straight Skirt Sloper

Skirt that hangs straight from the hip and acts as a basic bloc, without seam allowances, from which other skirt styles can be made.

Straight Sleeve

Sleeve that is straight from the underarm to the wrist and acts as a basic block with out seam allowances.

Strapless Bodice

Bodice that is shoulderless with added support, such as bones, that are inserted into the seam allowance to give structure.

Style Lines

Lines on a pattern or a drape that indicate the desired look and design of a garment.

Style Tape

By-the-yard tape with adhesive back used when designing and creating stylines on a dress form. Twill tape can also be used to create stylelines.

Stylepoint

Mark placed on the dress form indicating a desired design point.

Styling Curve

Tool used to true armholes and other curves areas on a pattern.

Subordinate

The element that is secondary to the main element in its influence in the composition. It is also known as sub-dominant or secondary.

Subtractive system

The system of mixing pigments to obtain color.

Suede

Inside of a leather skin worn on the outside and made to have a soft, napped surface.

Suit Sleeve

Sleeve that is slightly larger than a dress sleeve and that fits into the armhole of a set-in sleeve of a jacket.

Sumi Ink

Ink used for fashion illustrations when rendering with a brush.

Sundress

Dress with shoulder straps that can be stylized to hang straight or flare or any other variation.

Surplice or Surplus Wrap

Asymmetric wrap dress or top that cinches at the side of the body.

Sweatpants

Casual pants made of knit fabric worn for exercise.

Sweep

The amount of area at the bottom of a skirt, top, pants or other area of a garment.

Sweetheart

Neckline that is in the shape of a heart.

Symmetric

A mirror image from one side of a garment to the other.

Symmetry

Equality of parts on either side of a center line or point when the shapes and their sizes and locations are a mirror image of each other.

Synaesthesia

A “condition” in which a person experiences one sense through another sense, such as hearing a sound, but also seeing it in color.

T

T-Shaped

Silhouette that is broad across the shoulder and column-like through the body.

T-Shirt

Casual knit top with rib trim jewel neck and short sleeves.

Tab

Piece of material used to adjust a garment when combined with snaps, buttons or D-rings. Tabs are used on various areas of a garment such as on pant waistbands and jacket waists.

Tailor Tacks

Temporary basting stitches that, when cut apart, leave threads that are useful to mark areas of a garment. Tailor tacks are often used won fabrics where a tracing wheel cannot be used such as fine fabrics and velvets.

Tailor’s Chalk

Special removable chalk used for marking fabrics during the draping and sewing process.

Tailor’s Knot

Knot formed when looping two threads together at the same time and then pulling them with your fingers to form a knot.

Tailored Sleeve

Set-in sleeve with darts at the elbow.

Tambour Hook

Device with a sharp pointed hook at one end used in combination with a hoop when chainstitching and stringing beads onto a fabric.

Tank Top

Sleeveless top with a U or scooped neckline.

Tanning

Process involved in converting a hide or skin into leather.

Tape Measure

Device marked with units of measure in inches or centimeters used to measure in patternmaking and draping.

Tech Pack

Package containing garment specifications and other pertinent details relating to the construction of a garment. Tech packs are compiled and then sent to the factory so that a prototype can be made.

Teddy

Above the knee sleepwear garment similar to a long camisole but usually with lace trim.

Temperature of Color

A word used to describe whether a hue has red in it, or blue in it. Those with red in them are considered warm; those with blue in them are considered cool.

Tempo

How fast or slow musical notes are played.

Tension

Potential energy, where colors and shapes scintillate, or vibrate against each other. Tension is the feeling that something is about to move.

Tent Sloper

Silhouette that flares away from the body and ends at the torso. It is used as a basic sloper or can also be stylized.

Tent/Trapeze/Swing Coat

Coat that has a wide swing at the hem.

Tent/Trapeze/Swing Dress

Dress that flares out away from the body with a wide bottom sweep.

Tertiary Hues

These hues are the ones between the primary and secondary hues on the color circle.

Terms of Sale

Delivery and payment terms agreed upon between the buyer and the vendor.

Theme

A melody; a complete musical phrase or expression.

Thimble

Metal or plastic tool used when hand-sewing to help protect the fingers and to push the sewing needle through the material.

Thong/String

Undergarment where the buttocks is exposed and the crotch covered.

Thread

Thin, twisted yarns available in different fibers, on a spool, used for sewing.

Thread Count

Number of yarns per inch in the warp and weft of a woven fabric.

Thread Tracing

A hand basting stitch used on a garment to mark hems, center lines, notches, stitching and button markings, in place of a tracing wheel and tracing paper.

Three-quartered Sleeve

Sleeve that ends a few inches below the elbow.

Throat Plate

Part of the sewing machine below the needle that covers the machine teeth.

Tie

Men’s neck ornament worn under the collar of a men’s tailored shirt. To interlock or fasten as in a tie belt.

Tiered Skirt

Layers of fabric, one larger than the other such as in a tired flounce skirt.

Timbre

The sound quality of a note, related to the type of vibrations produced by the instrument; it is the difference in sound between various instruments.

Tint

A hue mixed with white.

Toggle Button

Straight-lined skirt with a series of flounces cut in circular style, or on the straight of the material

Toile

A full muslin drape of a garment design that is ready for fitting.

Tone

A hue mixed with gray.

Topstitching

A stitch that accentuates the edge of a garment. Can be made by hand or by machine and is usually a longer than normal stitch made with either contrast, matching or silk thread to make the stitch more pronounced. Topstitching can range from close to the edge (edgestitch) to as much as 1″ away from the finished edge.

Transfer paper used in patternmaking and draping to copy lines when used with a tracing wheel.

Tracing Wheel

Tool with serrated or pointed edges used in conjunction with tracing paper to transfer lines and marks in draping and patternmaking.

Trade Discount

The percentage or a series of percentages deducted from the list price (i.e. the theoretical retail price recommended by the manufacturer). If expressed as series, e.g. 40%, 15%, 10%, they must be taken individually and in order.

Transparent

A clear surface that transmits light through it.

Translucent

A partially occluded surface that transmits diffused light through it.

Trapunto Stitching

Decorative quilting technique where a motif is outlined with filler between layers to create a raised effect.

Trench coat

Single or double-breasted belted coat with storm flaps, and epaulettes.

Triad

Three hues equidistant from each other on a color circle, such as the primary hues red, yellow and blue, or the secondary hues green, violet and orange.

Tricot Fusible Interfacing

Knitted support material with gummed adhesive backing used in areas of a garment for support.

Trim

To cut away as in seam allowance on a garment. A decorative detail such as ribbon, braid or piping.

Trousers

Full length pants that are pleated or flat front.

True Bias

The 45 degree angle of a fabric, where maximum stretch is sought.

Trueing/Truing

In patternmaking and draping, a term that refers to connecting your lines to create a finished pattern.

Trumpet Skirt

Skirt that has a circular flounce at the bottom, resembling the end of a trumpet.

Tuck

Small pleat that is caught in the seam adding ease and movement to a garment.

Tunic

One piece 3/4 length garment worn over pants or a skirt.

Turtleneck Collar

Collar that is fitted at the neck, folds over itself and usually made out of knit fabric.

Tuxedo

Formal pantsuit with a satin notched or shawl collar and stripe along the pant leg.

Twill Tape

Selvage edge tape used for creating stylelines on a dress form or for other uses when sewing a garment such as a stay or as a trim.

Twist Front

Women’s blouse style with a twist at the front.

Two Piece Sleeve

A 2-part sleeve, with an under and an upper section used mostly in jackets where extra shape and ease are needed.

U

U Neck

Scooped neckline that takes the shape of the letter “U.”

Under stitch

A machine stitch that holds seam allowances together on the underside portion of a garment and keeps it from showing on the right side such as on a facing or under collar.

Underarm Cowl

Softly draped folds under the arm, achieved by cutting the fabric on bias.

Underarm Length

Length of the sleeve from under arm to the sleeve hem.

Underarm Stay

Piece of bias strip inserted into the underarm to keep the underarm stabile.

Undercollar

Bottom or under collar patterned smaller than the top collar, depending on the thickness of the fabric, so that the edge of the under collar won’t show once the collar is set into the neckline.

Underlay

Amount of desired material under a pleat.

Underlining

Any material that is used under the fashion fabric for structure and support. Can be quilted, pressed on or hand-stitched in place.

Underwire

Metal wire used to shape a bra cup.

Uneven Basting

Simple hand stitch that starts with one small stitch approximately 1/4″ long followed by another stitch 3/4″ long repeated and used to temporarily mark the center front of bodices, dresses, sleeves or any other areas on a garment where thread markings are needed.

Unity

A composition has unity when all the elements work together toward a common artistic goal.

Upper Collar

Top portion of a collar.

V

V-Neck

Neckline that forms a “V” on the front. However, a garment can also have a “V” back design detail.

Value

The lightness or darkness of a color. Black is the darkest of all colors, and therefore the lowest value possible. White is the highest value possible.

Value Scale

A range of achromatic values lined up in order from white to black.

Vanishing Point

Where a dart ends.

Vector

An imaginary and invisible line created by shapes in a composition, which determine the direction the eye moves.

Velcro

A tape made up of 2 parts, loops and mesh, that when they adhere to each other form a closure that can be used in place of a snap, hook & eye or button & buttonhole.

Vent/Slit

Opening on a jacket, skirt, dress, blouse or pants to give movement.

Vest

Sleeveless button though garment ending a the waist and commonly worn underneath a suit jacket.

Visible light spectrum

The electromagnetic waves from the light of the sun that are visible to us; we see them as color.

Visual weight

A color’s strength and ability to stand out relative to the other colors is due to a combination of elements: the color’s size, location, color and shape. Visual weight lends an object power and strength, and the ability to attract enough attention to be the focal point.

Volume

A 3-dimensional shape; a form.

W

Waist Dart

Dart that emanates from the waist and vanishes in the direction of the hip.

Waist Tape

Tape that is at the middle of the dress form.

Waistline

Line that is perpendicular to the sleeve center at the level of the wrist.

Walking Shorts

Shorts that end above the knee.

Warp

Refers to the lengthwise grain of a woven fabric.

Wavelength

An electromagnetic wave with a particular wavelength identifies each spectral hue.

Weave

Refers to the three most common types of fabric weave: plain weave, twill weave, satin weave.

Wedge

Silhouette that is wide at the top and narrows at the bottom.

Weft

Refers to the crosswise grain of a woven fabric.

Weights

Tool that is used to hold down fabric or paper during draping, patternmaking or sewing.

Welt

A design detail that is mounted onto or into a seam such as a welt pocket on the breast pocket of a jacket, or on a coat.

Western/Continental Pocket

Curved double welt pocket as seen on western shirts.

Whipstitch

Small, close together stitches made over a fold as a decorative touch.

Wigan

Type of cotton interfacing used in tailoring.

Windsor/Cutaway

Pocket cut away at the top, usually in a curved manner, used on men’s western or continental trousers.

Wing Collar

A stiff shirt collar with turned down points in front as seen on a men’s tuxedo dress shirt.

WL

Acronym for waist level or waistline.

Woven

Fabric that is made through the interlacing of yarns either at a right angle to each other to create a plain weave, or in a combination diagonal weave to create a twill and satin weave.

Wrap Coat

Coat made without buttons that is closed with a belt or sash.

Y

Yardstick

A ruler measuring 36 inches used in patternmaking and draping.

Yoke

Separate section of a garment such as the piece across the top back of a men’s shirt, or at the front top of a Western shirt. Yokes can also be used on the tops of pants and skirts.

Z

Zipper

Device made of metal or plastic used as a closure such as on the front of pants, on the back of a dress or as a decorative effect.

Zipper Foot

Sewing machine attachment that aides in the process of inserting a zipper into a garment. They are available for both the left and right side stitching.