Hvar, Croatia: My kind of town

Maeve Haran enjoys Hvar, Croatia, for its beaches, history and tiny fish
restaurants with neither name nor menu.

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Hvar has an ancient fortress and a Franciscan Monastery Photo: GETTY

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Maeve Haran recommends taking a boat to little beaches lapped by clear water

By Maeve Haran

11:13AM BST 21 Apr 2009

Why Hvar?

Hvar (pronounced "phwoar", much to my children's amusement) is the capital of Hvar Island in Croatia. It offers a perfect balance: sunbathing quietly during the day before getting dressed up to compete with the types whose yachts adorn the Venetian harbour. It has bags of atmosphere and is one of those rare destinations that remains a real place, with lots of history and interesting sites, from its ancient fortress and Franciscan Monastery to its Venetian piazza.

What do you miss most when you're away?

The unique atmosphere: friendly locals staring at Russian blondes in silver minidresses, on the arms of men in dark glasses.

We went two years running to the smart but friendly Podstine Hotel (00385 21 740 400; www.podstine.com; b & b from £166 for two in high season), which means "under the cliff". I love it because it is quiet, relaxing and beautiful but is just 20 minutes' pleasant stroll along the chic "korzo" to the nightlife of Hvar Town.

Where would you meet friends for a drink?

There are dozens of lovely waterfront cafés. Most are lively and crowded and fairly unsophisticated but ritzy restaurants are beginning to appear. The bar at Riva, Hvar Yacht Harbour Hotel (www.suncanihvar.com/riva), on the waterfront, features a white colonnade and cubist sofas.

Where are your favourite places for lunch?

It is delightful to get a small boat or water taxi from the harbour and head for the tiny Pakleni Islands, especially Sveti Klement and Palmizana Cove, where there are small fish restaurants. We went to one amazing restaurant among some ruins that had neither name nor menu, you just ate what they had on offer. It was one of those memories you always treasure. I do hope it hasn't been turned into a four-star establishment since we last visited.

And for dinner?

Macondo, Groda (742 850), just behind the main square towards the fortress, and Luna (1, Petra Hektorovica; 741 400). Both are great for calamari and seafood; booking is vital in high season.

Where would you send a first-time visitor?

To the little beaches you can only reach by boat and to the famous Blue Grotto where the brave even snorkel. But wear sea-shoes – there are loads of sea-urchins about. Fortunately the sea is so clear you can see them.

What would you tell them to avoid?

The loud and garish Carpe Diem disco which has dancers gyrating outside in broad daylight.

Public transport or taxi?

Neither – walk or take a boat to the islands. You can also take a ferry or hydrofoil to larger islands and even Dubrovnik if you want to expand your culture-loving horizons.

Handbag or moneybelt?

Handbag across your shoulder is fine. On our last visit tourism was still new and there didn't seem to be much crime.

What should I take home?

Some fabulous woven multicoloured scarves. Handbags. Shells. Sarongs. Some local designers' fashions. Handmade jewellery. We made a necklace of our own from green glass and raffia we found on the beach which everyone greatly admired.

Maeve Haran is the author of 'The Lady and the Poet’ (Pan Macmillan, £6.99)