Janitrol furnace wont ignite

I have a fairly new (10 yrs old) janitrol furnace which wont ignite it goes through all the motions trying to ignite but after about 2 to 3 minutes there is a hissing noise that try's to ignite then it shuts down. The light indicator blinks once according to the control panel is ignition failure. It says check gas flow or gas pressure orgas valve or flame sensor. How and in which order should I do these?

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Related Questions:

If its a gas furnace it could be the heat sensor on the pilot flame unit. When the sensor is failing it stops telling the control that the pilot is lit properly and the furnace goes thru another start up sequence. You can try to scrape any flash and dirt off of the heat sensor rod to clean it or remove it and clean or replace the sensor or the pilot assembly. There are plenty or furnace parts on Amazon. The next most likely thing is the relay board is ready to fail that part is ~$80 but you need to get the part number right and be experienced with wiring. WARNING-DANGER B4 you do anything to your furnace Turn Off The POWER first! If there is no plug or switch near by, shut of the circuit breaker! If you don't know what any of this means then you are likely not a good choice to mess with this device Be Safe :)

Some one missed the wiring diagram. I believe its like this:L1 = Line 1 = (Hot all are same thing)Black HiBlue Med Red LONow usually the black is for AC and connects to a normally Open (NO) contact on the blower relay.The heater speed (either red or blue) go the the normally Closed (NC) on the blower relay and on one side of this wire or contact on the relay it goes to the heating blower thermostat on the furnace.The remaining wire (blue or red) you tape off.L1 also feeds the Run Capacitor on 1 side and the Brown wire feeds the opposite side

Some of this depends on where the air handler/furnace is located. Most often in two story houses, it's in the attic upstairs, or in a closet upstairs. A duct routes air from the furnace to the downstairs supply duct, so it is a distance from the air handler.When the unit first initiates a heating cycle, that duct is going to be full of cool air, and the duct itself will be cool. So the furnace has to run long enough to push the cool air out, as well as warm the duct up, before your going to feel warm air at the registers downstairs.

Keep in mind, heat rises. And, your thermostat only monitors the immediate area where it's located. In your case, upstairs.Two story houses are problematic because of this. And one way around it is to have a damper system installed that distributes the air upstairs or downstairs based on a thermostat located in those spaces. There would be 2 dampers, and 2 thermostats (one upstairs, one downstairs). Each stat would control a damper, and the call for heat or cooling.

Let me know if you would like to consider a system like this, and I can point you to components to use. I've put several system like this in.

Check the intake and exhaust plumbing for any obstructions. I had same issue, turned out to be ice in the air intake plumbing on outside of house. This may be the problem. The pressure switch can be tested by pulling hose from purge motor that goes to switch and applying a small amount of suction. The switch should make a clicking sound.

Hi Bmreid
The problem you describe sounds pretty much like your gas valve is going bad. There is a brand by Honeywell called a Smart Valve which is anything but smart, when the electronics in the valve start going bad the furnace will run great for a day or two and then the next day may not run at all and then an hour later my run and then an hour later may not run again. Very sporadic operating furnace is usually the Honeywell Smart gas valve going bad.

you should have 24 volts between yellow and white wires at the stat when the stat is set to heat and set as hot as it will go. burners should light first then 3 to 5 minutes later the fan motor should fire up. if burner doesn't light check the wires going into the top of the gas valve see if you have 24 volts arriving there from the stat. if you do then the gasvalve is probably bad. you can bypass the action of the stat by jumping red to white on 90 percent of the stats made and in a few seconds the gas valve should click open gas flow to main burner where pilot ignites it. another easy check you can do is flip stat fan switch to on. fan should come on at once. if not then you have either no high voltage to unit or no low voltage ( as in a bad transformer). if the fan comes on you know you have high volts and low volts...by cover i assume you mean the decorative cover but there second cover with the mercury bulbs and all is still there. if you have only the bare subbase then new stat time. sounds like an old furnace if it has a standing pilot, it should be checked for cracked heat exchanger by a pro with a n electronic carbon monoxide detector. NOT a diy item due to the real danger of co poisoning.