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I usually shoot when I travel so I'm out all day taking hundreds of pictures. I rarely set up and take shots deliberatively, like one might for taking bracketed shots on a tripod for HDR or for panos, though I have a panoramic bracket.

I do it once in awhile, to take night shots.

But after a long day, I don't want to edit each picture and leaving it to do weeks or months later doesn't work either.

So I set up a preset in Aperture as kind of a universal set of values to apply on import. But Aperture also has a auto develop mode, so I check that out too.

Since it's non destructive processing and the RAWs are always preserved, I can always reprocess individual shots, make manual tweaks.

DW is catching the photography bug. She used to use our canon powershot sd850is, but has been using her phone for the past year or so. Today she told me that she wants a "point and shoot". She'll use it almost exclusively for people shots - family gatherings, etc. I'm looking at reviews, but there isn't a clear best choice.

Photo guys and gals - do you have a recommendation for a point & shoot camera?

I'm partial to Canon G series point and shoot cameras. Small enough to take anywhere, rugged and they take great pictures. Plenty of bells and whistles too if you want or keep on auto modes and just point and shoot. I think the newest G series P&S is still around $500. Just my two cents.

My understanding is that most pro sports shooters shoot jpg because it's faster to clear the camera's buffer and get written to the card and speed is everything in that environment. An architectural or landscape photographer doesn't care about that. But the sports shooter is going to make sure he/she has the white balance and exposure nailed because they are not going to have the wiggle room that a RAW shooter does.

I shot motorports for media in the past and most of the guys shot JPG simply because they don't have any time to edit photos. The photos have to be uploaded while races are going on and immediately after. But they do know how to dial in the exact settings for every situation.

DW is catching the photography bug. She used to use our canon powershot sd850is, but has been using her phone for the past year or so. Today she told me that she wants a "point and shoot". She'll use it almost exclusively for people shots - family gatherings, etc. I'm looking at reviews, but there isn't a clear best choice.

Photo guys and gals - do you have a recommendation for a point & shoot camera?

For something ultra compact, I like the Canon Powershot S110. It's tiny enough to fit in a pocket yet it packs a lot of features for someone who wants to explore beyond basic point and shoot.

For example, I used the shutter speed priority mode to capture this picture. Tea leaves and water swirling around in a bowl. Canon Powershot S110, ISO 160, f/5.9, 1/10s, no flash, tripod.

Frayne, Walt & FIREd - Thanks for the point & shoot camera tips. Both the Canon G's and S110 look like a good fit for her.

Next weeks assignment in photo class is composition - taking a shot where lines form
an intersection or check mark, and the viewer is drawn along the lines to the intersection. I brewed today so I didnt have time to shoot, but I did come up with this

Shot portrait photos for a church directory yesterday afternoon. The weird thing about that was when I went to import the photos into Lightroom I was seeing images from a series I'd done the day before at an antique truck show but not the portraits. And I DID reformat the SD card in the camera before the portrait shoot. But I was seeing them in the LCD on the back of the camera so I knew they were there.

Uh oh. This is not good. This camera (Nikon D7000) holds two SD cards, and I'd had it set up so the second card was an overflow for the first. So I copied all files in the camera from the 1st card to the 2nd and the portraits imported fine from that.

Whew!

So for the remaining shoots I'll have the camera write to both cards at the same time - "backup" vs. "overflow". And use a different card.

For right now (unless someone has a better idea of what the glitch was) I'll chalk it up to one of the contacts on the card/camera interface not making a solid connection. If it happens again the camera goes off to Nikon for a checkup.

This was a weird close call. Shot portrait photos for a church directory yesterday afternoon. The weird thing about that was when I went to import the photos into Lightroom I was seeing images from a series I'd done the day before at an antique truck show but not the portraits. And I DID reformat the SD card in the camera before the portrait shoot. But I was seeing them in the LCD on the back of the camera so I knew they were there. Uh oh. This is not good. This camera (Nikon D7000) holds two SD cards, and I'd had it set up so the second card was an overflow for the first. So I copied all files in the camera from the 1st card to the 2nd and the portraits imported fine from that. Whew! So for the remaining shoots I'll have the camera write to both cards at the same time - "backup" vs. "overflow". And use a different card. For right now (unless someone has a better idea of what the glitch was) I'll chalk it up to one of the contacts on the card/camera interface not making a solid connection. If it happens again the camera goes off to Nikon for a checkup.

Sounds like a one off contact problem. I didn't find it as a reported problem for the D7000.
Some D7000's have a problem with spots on the sensor. A wet cleaning ($15) at the local camera shop fixed mine. I bought some wet micro fiber cleaning swabs on eBay so I can do it myself the next time.

... So I copied all files in the camera from the 1st card to the 2nd and the portraits imported fine from that. ...

Thinking in general terms of memory cards and file systems - I would have approached this problem differently. Generally, writing/copying is the last thing you should do if any corruption is suspected. Since things are in an unknown state, it's hard to say what a write/copy operation may do, and it could make things permanently worse. I understand you were copying from the suspect card to another, but since the problem was maybe in the camera, I think this was still risky.

I would have removed the cards from the camera and read them with a computer. If you have problems reading them, copy from the card to a file on the computer, and try some recovery operations there. Last resort, try recovery on the card itself.

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