About Fixed Hardware Review

Shortly after its incorporation ACE created the fixed hardware review process. The process provides a mechanism for the legal establishment of new routes requiring fixed gear or the addition of fixed gear to existing routes.

In 2000, ACE enacted the fixed hardware guidelines, which codified the local climbing community’s views on these issues. The guidelines were revised and updated in 2015. The guidelines are an integral part of the ACE fixed hardware review process. Prior to their adoption, the guidelines were subject to an extensive review process, including a lengthy period of public comment.

Each year ACE appoints local climbers to administer the review process. They are responsible for polling the climbing community to determine whether the community supports new route proposals and proposals regarding the addition or relocation of fixed gear. Based on the local climbing community’s opinion on the proposals, the ACE makes a recommendation to the park to either approve or disapprove those proposals.

This process has been a successful one. The local climbing community supports the process and the park’s climbing management plan.

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New Routes Requiring Fixed Gear or the Addition of Fixed Gear to Existing Routes

The Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE) encourages applications for new anchors and for new routes which are capable of being led safely by an Eldorado leader competent at the grade. The community’s desire for growth in the Park must be balanced with a respect for the existing routes that have shaped the climbing that exists there today. Toward this end, ACE exists as a public forum to assist and regulate the installation of fixed hardware in Eldorado with the goal of facilitating controlled growth of quality routes and anchors in the Canyon.

Like-for-Like Fixed Hardware Replacement

Any climber who desires to replace any bolts or fixed hardware that is a “like-for-like” replacements (e.g., replacing an old bolt with a new bolt in the same location) must notify Eldorado Canyon State Park at 303.494.3943, and obtain a permit for the replacement. These permits are usually granted quickly. No application or notice to ACE’s Fixed Hardware Review Committee is necessary or required.

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