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And happy Diwali! I went to a Diwali lunch this week at work and it was one of the most sensational feasts I've had in a long time. I'm STILL full, two days later.

Kate, I believe Jalebi dough is different from Gulab Jamun, which contains milk solids.

The Jalebi is crispier (they ask you how crispy you like it when they fry the dough) and then it is quickly dunked in the sugar syrup. It is a common sweet found at Indian stores outside India as well. Try it if you see it. I recommend having it with a glass of warm milk.

Happy Diwali percyn! Khandvi looks good, that is one of my fav things. And thanks for vada pav pics - I love those salted chillies you get with them.

Happy Diwali and Happy New Year to you!

Here are some fireworks we lit last night.

For those who may not be familiar, Diwali is a major festival in India (kind of a combination of Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year) and is widely celebrated. Most schools and business are shut for a few days if not a week or more.

While not technically a Parsi holiday, in true form we never turn down an opportunity to celebrate, often with much gusto.

On the 2hr trip from Pune to Panchgani, we stopped by a few places for breakfast and a small farm/restaurant (does not get much more farm to table when they are eat located 6ft apart) to pick up lunch.

The restaurant is located under a large Banyan tree which must be at least 200 years old, if not much more.

And happy Diwali! I went to a Diwali lunch this week at work and it was one of the most sensational feasts I've had in a long time. I'm STILL full, two days later.

Gulab jamun is made from khoa (milk that is cooked down until it is solid) that has a little flour added and is then deep fried before being put in syrup. Nowadays an inferior version made with powdered milk is common, and if they want to make it at home many people choose this easier way. Not good if you ask me!

Jalebi are made from a batter of flour and yoghurt that is fermented a little before the jalebi are fried. They are then put in syrup. "Cheat" versions with yeast or baking powder also exist nowadays. Take percyn's advice and enjoy with a glass of hot milk - delicious!

We finally arrive. The cooler breeze is refreshing, but the view is priceless.

Looks gorgeous.

Chikki is essentially brittle, usually made with nuts and jaggery.

Just starting to see some new season jaggery here, and lots of chikki is also around. A friend and I demolished a bar over chai a few days ago...too good!

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Happy Diwali percyn! Khandvi looks good, that is one of my fav things. And thanks for vada pav pics - I love those salted chillies you get with them.

Happy Diwali and Happy New Year to you!

Here are some fireworks we lit last night.

For those who may not be familiar, Diwali is a major festival in India (kind of a combination of Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year) and is widely celebrated. Most schools and business are shut for a few days if not a week or more.

While not technically a Parsi holiday, in true form we never turn down an opportunity to celebrate, often with much gusto.

The item at the 11 o'clock position is local Tomato chutney which contains some dried fruits as well. Delicious.

Haveji is a special kind of Patio, which is rare to find even in Parsi circles. You made it my lightly frying onions, adding garlic and then add a paste made from water and tumeric, chili powder, dhana jera, garam masala and usually any other masala you fancy from your "masala dubba" or small box of spices which is omnipresent in every Indian kitchen.

Once you fry the spices along with the onions for 10-15 min, you will see the oil start to separate out. Add in pureed tomatoes along with a few tablespoons of dark vinegar for a sour component and jaggery for a sweeter note.

You may have noticed that the "recipe" did not provide strict measurements. This is because as with many ancient recipes, there are various adaptations, including family variations. I don't believe the recipe for Haveji (if it is spelt that way) has been published before. I could not find it on the web nor in the cookbooks in hand in India. Will have to check my larger collection of cookbooks in the US.

Marinate fish in salt, tumeric and a little chili powder. Pan fry it until golden brown and you can serve it along the side to enjoy the crispy skin or add it into the Haveji.

This kitchen is quite different from what I am used to, but there is something about cooking without fancy gizmos in simple, old hand hammered pots that adds the flavor of nostalgia to the dish.

percyn, I am puzzled at what you are calling "green wheat". Is it jowar? If so you are a lucky lucky man as jowar ki roti is my favourite! But I hate making it myself so always like to go somewhere I can get someone else to make it!

I have a question about the Thali, I've been eating a lot of them recently but am never sure what (if any) is the correct way to eat them. Do you start eating at 12'oclock and work your way round clockwise? If so how do you eat the liquidy gravy before the yoghurt - is it just by dipping chapatis into
It or do you do something different? Do they sometimes serve dessert on them too? I've had a couple with almost a rice pudding or sago pudding on them and assumed that was what it was but wasn't sure...

"Experience is something you gain just after you needed it" ....A Wise man

Percyn, you have always been one of my favourite posters, so I am overjoyed to see a full week of your eating/cultural experiences!

You may have addressed this in a past travelblog, but are you ever wary of digging into the goods of street food or roadside vendors? Or do you travel back to India often enough not to worry about re-introducing such foods to your diet. In reading your blog, I am reminded of my father who, after spending decades away from Thailand, found that he could no longer partake in such delights without some serious consequences.

Thanks for the pictures of jalebi. I love love love jalebi, but I prefer mine with cold milk. :-)

I have a question about the Thali, I've been eating a lot of them recently but am never sure what (if any) is the correct way to eat them. Do you start eating at 12'oclock and work your way round clockwise? If so how do you eat the liquidy gravy before the yoghurt - is it just by dipping chapatis intoIt or do you do something different? Do they sometimes serve dessert on them too? I've had a couple with almost a rice pudding or sago pudding on them and assumed that was what it was but wasn't sure...

I do hope that percyn will forgive me for jumping in here but I will offer a quick explanation.

Thali refers to the plate the food is on. A thali meal is a general way of referring to a traditional meal of several components. The manner of serving a meal varies depending on what region of India you go to, what community people are from, etc. In some communities there is a specific order to the way food is served and eaten, and in others it a very loose affair. An example of the former is the traditional order of many areas in South India. First rice is eaten with sambar, then with rasam and then with yoghurt. Side dishes are eaten alongside these courses and dessert is traditionally served before the rice and yoghurt course. As a foreigner, you will probably not be expected to eat things absolutely in "the right way". Meals may be served up to you in sections anyway, to guide this.

Often, a thali is served with all the dishes at once. Generally speaking, it is down to the diner's discretion how she or he eats. Each dish is mixed with some of the starch (bread or rice) and eaten. Remember that the starch is sort of the main point of the meal and the other dishes are things to make the starch taste good! The bread is torn into pieces (ideally with just the right hand but I've seen many North Indians use both) and used to scoop up dishes quite easily, but the rice can be harder for Westerners. You sort of mix and mash a small portion of a (very often wet) dish into the rice before taking a small portion of it to your mouth. You sort of push the rice off your fingers and into your mouth with your thumb rather than shove your whole hand in! By the way generally speaking in the North you should just use the tips of your fingers to eat but as you go further South, it's acceptable to get your whole hand a bit messier. There's a joke that for South Indian's the whole arm is utensil!

Some people consider it rather "gross" to mix lots of things together and instead keep things separate. Others like to combine certain dishes together. A tip is to use the bread to scoop up drier dishes, and mix moister dishes with the rice. Pickles and chutneys are eaten in small portions with other foods. Not everyone uses their hands for everything - North Indians in particular may prefer to use a spoon for sloppier dishes. Sometimes other dishes are brought to you as you eat.

To mention dessert, yes a sweet is often served on the thali with everything else. Often it has a spoon with it. Actually spoons often come with a thali anyway so people can choose how to serve and eat. Some people, including myself, like to eat a little of the sweet at the start of the meal. Some even continue to nibble a bit of it throughout the meal. However, if you are a foreigner and you do this than people will most likely just think you are confused and may have a little chuckle or offer you advice!

Something to note: in several parts of India, the last mouthful is some rice mixed with yoghurt (and possibly pickles, relishes, etc.). This is considered settling for the stomach. I always do this, setting aside a little of my rice and yoghurt for this purpose and eating it after dessert. Try it, you might like it!