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This has been the summer of sublime corn and dreadful corn. Honestly, some of it is so mealy it tastes like feed for livestock. Kernels on other cobs are firm, tight, sweet little nuggets of corn juice. We moan while we eat it. Often there's too much and if I realize this before it's cooked, I take the kernels off the cobs to make my favorite salad. If the corn is already cooked, you can remove the kernels for chowder.

Corn salad

Serves 4

Salt and pepper, to taste

6 ears fresh corn, kernels removed from cobs

1 jalapeno pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped

1/2 small red onion, coarsely chopped

2 scallions, thinly sliced on the diagonal

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or parsley

1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the corn. Cook 3 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water until the kernels are no longer hot.

2. Shake out the excess moisture and transfer the corn to a bowl. Add the jalapeno and red pepper, onion, scallions, oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Toss well. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Sprinkle with basil or parsley and toss again. Sheryl Julian

Contributors

Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.

Ellen Bhang reviews Cheap Eats restaurants for the Globe and writes about wine.

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