Anyhow, I ran last night the wheel motor 2 hours, 1 hour in each direction, on 9v. It seems to start turning better once the motor is heated, but once it cools down when placed back to bot, it stops working.

Last question on this before I order a replacement motor - is it important if the amperage 350 mA or 1A?

KKKK when I did it I was already resigned to buy a new one Anyway, the temperature in the refrigerator is just 0-5ºC and it's dry... it'll not destroy the motor Also, 9v is less then the max voltage the motor was designed: 12v

It had some mechanical binding between the wheel and the bolt used to secure the wheel. With the new mod in place when 14 vdc is applied to the drive motor, it consumes .1 amp in either direction with no load.

My Neato XV12 generated a "Right Wheel stuck. . ." error as described by OP. The dysfunctional wheel was substantially more difficult to rotate than the functioning wheel as indicated by other posters with the same error.

I First tried running the wheel via USB using PuTTY and the SetMotor command in TestMode as described in the neato programers manual and suggested by glnc222 above. The wheel turned if manually rotated at the start of the command, but was inconsistent in speed and stopped frequently. However, the SetMotor command is limited to a maximum distance of 10 meters and therefore insufficient for the "break-in " method described by aziesemer2.

I then performed the "break-in" method as described in the original post by aziesemer2, with minor modifications. The wheel housing was removed and the motor was removed from the housing. The metal sleeve was removed from the motor. The red and black leads of the motor were connected to a 6 V adapter using alligator clips. Initially, the motor ran with substantial vibration and with uneven speed. A drop (~10 ul) of lubricating oil was applied to the inside of the casing through one of the screw holes with no immediate effect. The motor was operated for 30 minutes, at which point it was hot to the touch (almost unbearable to hold). The motor was allowed to cool at room temperature and the polarity was switched to run in the oposite direction for 30 minutes. This process was repeated 3 times in each direction. The motor eventually ran without changing speeds. After reassembly, the wheel turned noticeably easier than before the procedure, but not quite as easy as the unaffected wheel.

The robot has now run for ~3 hours since the "break-in" method without error. Many thanks to aziesemer2.

I removed the motor because I wanted to test it independent of the mechanical binding issue raised by Vic7767. In my case, the motor itself rather than mechanical binding was the problem. Just to clarify, I did not disassemble the motor casing itself. The motor has a metal sleve around it for reasons that I don't completely understand, but I'm sure are important. This was removed during "break-in" because I thought it would help dissipate heat.

Last edited by metabflux on November 21st, 2012, 2:03 am, edited 3 times in total.