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Learn & Explore Tip of the Day

August 2, 2015

Use a polarizing filter to lessen or eliminate reflections from glass. This works really well on windows of stores or cars. But the trade-off is that your exposure will be a bit longer, as the light is cut down by almost two stops.

On photo sharing sites like Flickr you can often view the details of a photograph and take a look at the shutter speed, aperture, ISO and other settings. While this won’t teach you how to create a photo from scratch it will show you what technical choices photographers made to capture their images.

If your COOLPIX camera or NIKKOR lens has image stabilization (Nikon calls it Vibration Reduction), know when to use it and when to turn it off. If you don’t know how your stabilization system works, turn it off when you’re shooting with a tripod. If it doesn’t sense that the camera is solidly mounted, it can add movement while trying to reduce blur.

Always use your lens hood (if you have one) or buy a lens hood (if you don’t). The lens hood isn’t just good for preventing flare. It can keep you from losing the contrast of your images as well as protect your front lens element from raindrops too.

When shooting a portrait of an athlete, use fill flash (or flash turned on even in daylight) to light up the shadow areas under a hat or helmet. This will balance the light from the entire scene and light up the face. On a compact camera, the setting to choose is "Flash On."

Look around you when you’re shooting at sunset. The objects that look boring during the day magically come to life when the rays of the sun hit them. Buildings, cars and anything reflective take on a special quality at sunset.

If your camera can capture images in both RAW and JPEG format, do so even if you don’t work with RAW images now. These RAW files have the highest image quality possible, so you can edit them years from now and be sure you’re getting the best looking image possible.

Shooting a lightning storm can be exciting. Use a tripod and set you camera to record a long exposure. With DSLRs, 15 seconds is a good start, but you may have to use up to 30 seconds, or bulb setting (where the shutter stays open as long as you hold down the shutter button). Because you never know when the lightning will occur, keep shooting for best results. Remember to always keep a safe distance, and don’t forget the tripod to avoid blurry photos!

Take a self-portrait each day for a week or month (or a year). It’s harder than you think to take an attractive photo of yourself, and if you do it for long enough you’ll have an interesting series that shows how you’ve changed over time.

Look on photo sharing sites for inspiration for your next photo shoot. Pick a subject you want to photograph or a location and search for photos of that. You’ll see a wide array of different techniques and styles that will inspire you.

Don’t stop shooting after the action has finished in sports. Get in close on a happy or sad face … a celebration after a goal … or the dejection on the sideline after a loss. The emotion of the game speaks volumes and can really round out a series of pictures.

If you live in a city or near a big photo store, find a photographic rental house and rent a lens that you don’t have. Take a telephoto lens to a ball game or rent a wide-angle lens and take it camping. This will give you a chance to try a new piece of equipment and expand your photographic horizons.

You should format the memory card in your camera on a regular basis. By using the camera’s built-in “Format” function, found in the menus, you lessen the chance of having card problems in the future. Doing so is better than just deleting the images using the camera or the computer.

Take a step back. No, farther back. See what the scene looks like from far away to get perspective. Walk around it, to see it from different angles. There’s a tendency to rush up to something and take a photo, but if you look at it from different angles you’re more likely to find something you would otherwise have missed.

Most cameras with built-in flashes have a red-eye reduction setting that fire several quick pre-flashes before the main burst of light. Turn this off if you’re not photographing people because it drains the battery and doesn’t help light up your scene.

Make a great team picture. Get the team together in front of a nice background—maybe the goal, the net or the team logo on the field or floor. Shoot the ordinary, and then let the kids have some fun, making faces or funny poses. That’s the one they will always remember.

At a wedding, watch what the photographer is doing and pick something different to shoot. If the photographer is shooting the cake cutting, take pictures of the band. If the photographer is shooting the bouquet toss with a wide-angle lens from behind the bride, use a telephoto to capture people trying to catch the flowers. You’ll capture a part of the wedding that wouldn’t have been documented otherwise.

It’s always best to shoot group pictures in a location that tells something about the people. For example, shoot the sports team on the field instead of the parking lot. Try to think about how the background, or setting, adds to the story of who they are.

Do some photography pro bono. Find a charitable organization in your area that can’t afford a photographer and offer your services for free. The group will end up with a precious resource it wouldn’t have had access to; and photos of an event or service the organization provides can help it get funding.

Try to buy the fast and large memory cards. Speed ratings on the cards are important for live action shots, especially when you’re shooting in sports or continuous scene modes, or at the highest frame rate. That will allow the camera to shoot at its fastest frame rate with little worry the camera will have to pause to offload images to the card.

Freeze the sports action. The key is using a high shutter speed. On compact cameras, use the sports scene mode. On a DSLR, pick a high shutter speed of 1/500th of a second or above. This will freeze almost all action. If the light is low, adjust your ISO to a higher sensitivity (800-1600 ISO), which will allow you to select a faster shutter speed.

Place your subjects equally away from the camera when shooting a group. Avoid placing any of your subjects a lot closer to your camera than others. That can lead to some of your family members being out of focus or just looking a little out of the mix.

Babies are great subjects because they’re so darn cute. Focus on the teeny body parts with a macro lens. Pudgy hands, small ears, and teeny elbows—they’re even cuter when they’re the subjects of your photo.

Use a small flashlight to light up a scene. Put one behind or under an object at night to create an interesting glow or use it instead of a flash. Take long-exposure shots using a flash as a light source and you can create interesting glowing sections of your photos.

Photographing at the zoo? Careful composition can hide the fact that your wild animal subjects are behind fences or in pens. Zoom in for tight close-ups so you don’t see man-made objects like fence posts, concrete swimming holes or perches for the animals to play on.

When photographing cars, try getting a different perspective. Use a wide-angle lens to capture the hood ornament with the hood stretched out behind. Get low and shoot up on the car. Grab a ladder and shoot a bird’s eye view. You’ll create a photograph that captures a car as art.

When shooting nighttime landscapes, use a low ISO (400 or below if possible) while working from a tripod. Open your aperture to F/4 or F/5.6. This will allow you to have a shot full of detail and of good quality. Remember that night shots need a subject, just like day shots.

Corporate Profile

Nikon is the world leader in digital imaging, precision optics and photo imaging technology and is globally recognized for setting new standards in product design and performance. The unique strength of the Nikon brand attributable to the company’s unwavering commitment to quality, performance, technology and innovation. Nikon Inc. markets and distributes consumer and professional digital SLR cameras, NIKKOR optics, Speedlights…

Medium telephoto portrait lens with Nikon Defocus Image Control.

The medium telephoto version of Nikon’s innovative Defocus Image Control lenses, the AF DC-NIKKOR 135mm f/2D delivers remarkably sharp images, a fast f/2 maximum aperture for low-light performance and shallow depth of field plus the ability to selectively soften elements in the background or foreground. Discover new compositional possibilities with this versatile, high-performance prime lens.

Key Features

Creative compositionsExclusive Defocus Image Control featureUsing the same unique Defocus Image Control (DC) feature employed in the AF DC-NIKKOR 105mm f/2D, the AF DC-NIKKOR 135mm f/2D offers more telephoto reach. Selectively blur elements in either the foreground or background for more creative control—make your subject stand out from the background, softly defocus foreground elements and more.

A-M stands for Auto-Manual Mode. Thanks to a mechanism incorporated in the lens barrel, smooth focusing operation in Manual focus mode is realized in the same way as users have become accustomed to with conventional manual-focus lenses by adding an appropriate torque to the focus ring.

Rear Focusing System

A system in which only the rear lens group moves during focusing, thus eliminating changes in the physical length of the lens during focusing and enabling faster focusing. Such lenses are designated with RF on the lens barrel.

At a Glance

Focal Length

135mm

Maximum Aperture

f/2

Format

FX/35mm

Approx. Dimensions (Diameter x Length)

3.1 in. (79 mm) x 4.7 in. (120 mm)

Approx. Weight

28.7 oz. (815 g)

Mount Type

Nikon F-Bayonet

Focal Length

135mm

Maximum Aperture

f/2

Minimum Aperture

f/16

Format

FX/35mm

Maximum Angle of View (DX-format)

12°

Maximum Angle of View (FX-format)

18°

Maximum Reproduction Ratio

0.48x

Lens Elements

7

Lens Groups

6

Compatible Format(s)

FXDXFX in DX Crop Mode35mm Film

Diaphragm Blades

9

Distance Information

Yes

Super Integrated Coating

Yes

Autofocus

Yes

Minimum Focus Distance

4.0 ft. (1.1m)

Focus Mode

AutoManual

Rear Focusing

Yes

De-Focus Control

Yes

Filter Size

72mm

Accepts Filter Type

Screw-on

Approx. Dimensions (Diameter x Length)

3.1 in. (79 mm) x 4.7 in. (120 mm)

Approx. Weight

28.7 oz. (815 g)

Loading Ratings & Reviews

AF DC-NIKKOR 135mm f/2D
4.9
5
15
15

Just brilliant.
I use it for everything. Super sharp, amazing bokeh, built like a tank and a 135 mm on dx is 200mm so its kinda like having a 200mm f2 for a quarter of the price. The DC effect is subtle but present. The backgrounds are just a melt of colors. I am not a fan of soft focus but it is a plus to be able to do it. I like the built in hood. The interior of the hood is lined with velour to minimize reflects.
I am a bit disappointed with the lack of a case for this one. Especially when the included a rigid case with it just a year or two ago... I wont take a star of for that but its worth mentioning.
April 14, 2011

One Of The Best
This is one of my favorite lens. Nice bokeh and very sharp even at f2. The DC function is something you need to get practice with but even without the DC this lens is remarkable
January 3, 2011

Amazing lens!!
After deciding between the 85 and 135, I decided to go with the 135 only to find out I have to wait over a month to get my order in from the store but definitely worth the wait. I had been using the lens for outdoor head shots and it has been performing amazing, focus is fast and spot on. No issues shooting wide open which makes the skin tone so pleasing and smooth therefore, I don't have to do a lot of skin touch ups. I'm currently using the lens with a D700 and can't imagine how this one performs with the D3 series camera. Get it if you can find one.
December 13, 2010

Best Portrait lens
This lens is world class. The detail and bokeh you can capture with this lens makes it worth the price. If you shoot portraits this lens is a must have.
September 22, 2010

amazing!
This is an incredible lens! The images are outstanding. I use it wide-open all the time and love the results. The trick though is to watch your depth of field. If you're close to its minimum focus your depth of field is VERY narrow. EG you can have someone's nose in focus but not their eye - or the other way around. If you shoot on a modern Nikon like the D3 you can pick which focus sensor you want to use and keep the camera in continuous focus mode - this way you can track your subject fairly well. The only other factor with this is this lens doesn't have its own AF motor so it doesn't focus as fast as an AF-S lens. Again - when you're using the lens at its minimum focus limit (or close to it) with an f2 f-stop the depth of field is so narrow that you have to very aware of what is and isn't in focus. The sharpness and boken is absolutely amazing. I never had figured out how to use the DC control / I probably should. You won't be disappointed with this lens. The only way Nikon could improve it is to make an AF-S version.
September 20, 2010

Outstanding portrait lens!
. I too had been curious about this somewhat specialized lens, but after playing with one at a store I could tell that it is just too good not to have if you do any kind of portraiture.
. The incredible bokeh is really apparent on the FX (or film) bodies; on the DX camera the shallowness of the DOF is not as apparent (due to the smaller chip size and subsequent 'crop factor'). I have even tried some macro shooting with this glass, using a 25MM extension tube to allow for closer focus, and it proved to be a winner there as well.
. Pricey? A bit. A little exotic - particularly that unique DC capability? Most certainly. But if you are a believer in having the best glass possible (since bodies will come and go) then this is truly a lens to consider.
July 30, 2010

135mm f2 DC
Excellent lens for many reasons. Nice, tight portrait lens, which does double duty as a super fast indoor sports lens. Solid build, excellent clarity, color, sharpness. My favorite portrait lens if I have the room (If not, use the 85mm). Shoots indoor sports very well. Perfect for volleyball, basketball, etc. Perfect on the D3 series. Allows very low light action photos. Even in poor light, very fast. I can usually get 1/640 @ f3.2 or better with ISO around 4000. I'm shooting w/o flash, other guys have to use flash, just shake their heads.
July 30, 2010

An incredible lens worth its weight in gold.
My favorite portrait lens is the manual focus 105/2.5. I decided it was time to get current. I tried the 105/2 on my D3s, it was nice but I;d have preferred the 105/1.8. Then I found out about the 135/2. I found a USA lens a retailer, lucky me! This lens is fantastic. It is a bit long for some us but I have adapted to its differences, like going from a manual shift to an automatic. I shoot wide open most of the time simply because I can. The bokeh and focus effects are something I used to have to go into a photo editor to do, now I can do it all naturally. I have very few fixed focal length lenses, but this is most definitely one to have, and only Nikon has it.
July 24, 2010

Use and Price
I just love this lens. Its easy to use and not that pricy.
April 14, 2011

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I would like to shoot at full manual settings. Is this lens not entirely compatiable with the D200?

4 years, 4 months ago by

by

CD

San Francisco

Location :

San Francisco

Age: 35-44

Favorite Subject: Portrait

Nikon Family: 6-10 years

Experience: 1-3 months

Role: Serious passion, hobbyist

2 Answers

Answers

+2points

2out of2found this answer helpful.

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Answers

+5points

6out of7found this answer helpful.

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I use it mainly for portrait. But if the question is "how do you use the DC function?": Very easy.

You want to use it as a normal 135 f2: Leave it at is neutral setting.

You want to emphasize the background blur: Move the DC control towards the R. Start with matching the aperture set in camera and on the DC ring first see what it does for you. You can also have a "soft focus" effect by lets say having a F2 aperture in your camera setting and placing the DC ring at F2.8 (towards the R on the ring) or more.

You can do the same with the front blur. Just move the DC ring toward the F instead.

Shooting a lot will help you decide what settings you like. Just remember to refocus every time you play with the DC ring.

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Answers

+3points

3out of3found this answer helpful.

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Yes, just purchase this lens for my d90 and love it. No problems with autofocus and the picture quality is great.

Jun 19, 2011 by

by

Anonymous

+3points

4out of5found this answer helpful.

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Answers

+1point

1out of1found this answer helpful.

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Yes, actually.If you look at one of the teleconverter reference charts on this site, you'll see that the AF DC-NIKKOR 135mm f/2D supports the TC-14B manual-focus teleconverter. They're no longer made, so you'll have to get one used, or just be lucky enough to already have one, but the TC-14B is your answer. I've found that the TC-14A will work in a pinch, but the image quality isn't great. The TC-14A is optimized for lenses with focal lengths under 300mm, while the TC-14B is designed for use with longer lenses. The 135mm f/2D is under 300mm, but it's an oddball lens that just works better with the TC-14B for some reason.

To get a look at the reference chart, search Nikon Answers for Answer ID 13929,"What is a Teleconverter and can I use it with my camera and lens?"Once you're there, scroll to the bottom, and click on the link labeled "AF Nikkor Lenses Specifications."

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Answers

+1point

1out of1found this answer helpful.

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The A-M switch does disengage the focusing ring. It can be rotated freely (completely independent of the focusing mechanism) for a short distance after you set it to A , and then it locks into place. I don't think it's even possible to accidentally rotate it after that, and until it does lock, it's perfectly safe to rotate it, as it's been completely uncoupled from the lens' optics. Just make sure you've rotated the A-M switch fully into position. Another thing to note is that when you have it set to A, the focus ring doesn't rotate during AF like it does on screw-type AF lenses #non AF-S, non AF-I# that lack the A-M switch.

With the A-M switch set to A, once you've rotated the focus ring and locked it into place, it'll become a massive rubberized grip that is completely incapable of movement, unless, I suppose, you're abusing the thing and trying to break it. When it's set to M, it feels like a classic manual-focus lens, except with maybe just a little extra drag than some. It's not like the 50mm f/1.8D, whose focus ring tends to stick. It moves smoothly, and makes focusing a joy. Though AF is great, if you're using a lower-end body that lacks a built-in motor, I doubt you'll miss it, once you've practiced enough. This lens truly is a work of art. Get it. It does seem to have some quality control issues, as I had to get three to find one that wasn't defective, but it was more than worth the hassle.

Jul 26, 2013 by

by

AlanC

Grove City, OH, USA

Location :

Grove City, OH, USA

Age: 18-24

Favorite Subject: Portrait

Nikon Family: 6-10 years

Experience: 1-3 months

Role: Professional photographer

+1point

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I wouldn't, you could damage the motor in the camera. The exception to his is when the lens also has a A/ M mode in addition to manual and auto. That is a design to override the autofocus and switch to manual without sliding he switch.

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I heard something autofocus not being compatible with the d60 and other smaller models. What's that about?

4 years, 2 months ago by

by

Emilie

Canada

Location :

Canada

Age: 18-24

Favorite Subject: Portrait

Nikon Family: 2-5 years

Role: Occasional user, memory keeper

1 answer

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Nikon offers two types of autofocus digital camera bodies: those with a built-in focus drive motor and those which require a lens to have a motor. Cameras such as the D60 do not have a focus motor in it so they require the lens to have the focusing motor – an “AF-S” lens. While these bodies can use a lens with no focus motor (an “AF” lens) you would have to manually turn the focus ring to bring the subject in to sharp focus.

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Read a new version may be released this year. Could it be true? Should I wait?

1 year, 4 months ago

by

PicSmith

NH

Location :

NH

Age: 55-65

Favorite Subject: Nature

Nikon Family: 2-5 years

Role: Serious passion, hobbyist

1 answer

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