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Why Mercury-Free Gold Is the Future of Sustainable Jewelry

As sustainable fashion becomes a necessity, designers and organizations dedicated to conservation are joining forces. In the past, Pure Earth has made headlines by working in some of the world’s poorest communities to combat toxic pollution, a problem linked directly to manufacturing processes. To prove once and for all that rethinking material sourcing doesn’t mean sacrificing design, the nonprofit enlisted some of the coolest jewelry labels around for its latest endeavor, the Heavy Metal auction. Featuring one-of-a-kind fine jewelry from 16 brands including Pamela Love, David Yurman, Aesa, Dana Bronfman, Ariane Zurcher Designs, Mociun, and Jeff Hoo, the auction serves to showcase the best in responsibly crafted pieces.

Creating jewelry with fair-trade and mercury-free gold sourced from Fairmined-certified mines avoids one of the key downsides of gold mining—mercury emissions. With gold mining the leading source of mercury pollution in the world, changing the manner in which it’s sourced could have a profound environment impact. “Consumers have probably heard about ‘blood diamonds,’ but few know about gold’s connection with toxic mercury,” says Pure Earth president Richard Fuller. While the company has been working directly with artisanal miners to train them in mercury-free techniques, consumer requests often serve as the final word on which techniques are utilized. “Increasing the demand for mercury-free gold will help persuade more miners to make the switch. We already see progress. In Mongolia, Pure Earth has trained over 1,000 miners to go mercury-free, with many more on the waiting list.”

Getting customers onboard means offering them appealing and accessible options, something the auction handles admirably. For designer Pamela Love, the decision to participate was an easy one. “It’s our job as designers and educators to make strides toward meaningful change in jewelry-making standards and practices,” says Love. “We need to push the industry to be as ethical and environmentally friendly as possible.” Love has become active in trying to bring changes to the industry, and while making the trip to Suriname to work with policy-makers connected to the mining sector, she found an ideal partner in Pure Earth. “Having seen the negative effects firsthand, I feel that I have to do everything in my power to inspire positive change. My business is far from perfect, but we are working every day to take strides.”

Creating an elegant pair of geometric earrings featuring Hoover and Strong’s ethically sourced gold as well as eco-friendly cultivated diamonds, Love’s piece is one of the auction’s standouts. Filled with delicate gold hoops, minimalist necklaces, and subtle statement pieces, the lineup is instantly appealing, something the collection’s model and Pure Earth ambassador Molly Bair noticed right off the bat. “They were all so beautiful and intricately made, but I gravitated toward the asymmetrical Pamela Love earrings and the Brilliant Earth necklace,” says Bair, who’s eager to see if buyers have the same reaction. “I’m just super excited to put our hard work—mostly courtesy of the wonderful people at Pure Earth—on display!”

Launching online this week and accepting bids until April 24, the auction promises to raise funds and awareness, all for a great cause. Though buying a pair of earrings won’t change the world, the forces behind the event hope that it can shift perceptions. “Consumers should realize that they are part of the solution,” says Fuller, whose sentiment is echoed by Love. “Small steps like this will lead to significant change over time. We just have to keep working at it.”