The perfect steak doesn't need anything more than a few suave accompaniments. These three put an elegant spin on the usual chophouse suspects

When conversation turns to planning menus for autumn entertaining, I'm a firm believer in steak. My favorite cut is rib eye, also known as Delmonico, though I have a weakness for T-bone and porterhouse, too. Basically, any steak that takes time to grill or roast in order to achieve a perfect crust—such as a 2- or 3-inch-thick steak for two people—gets my vote.

In addition to that important crust, all that a top-quality steak requires is good salt and pepper. (Don't even think about barbecue sauce.) Now, what to serve with it? Worthy side dishes are key to making a steak into a meal. Among those I like best are braised romaine drizzled with avocado dressing and a mélange of marinated heirloom tomatoes.

Twice-baked potatoes rank high on my side-dish preference list as well. Everyone seems to have a variation on this recipe, and I'm no exception. In my version, you bake the potatoes—preferably Yukon Gold, which is known for its naturally buttery flavor—until they are well-done. Then carefully scoop the flesh from the skin, crush it lightly with a fork, and toss with butter, olive oil, crème fraîche, heavy cream, fresh herbs, and chopped niçoise olives. The goal is for the potato mixture to be chunky, not compact or dense. Once you've done that, just refill the skins, top with cream, and broil them until golden brown. So what are you waiting for? Fire up the grill!

What to Drink

To Daniel Johnnes, the wine director of Daniel restaurants, steak means red wine. Especially an earthy Cabernet or Merlot blend from Washington State. "It's an overlooked category that's a great value compared to wines from Napa Valley and Bordeaux," he says. Johnnes's recommendations for this month's menu are the 2004 vintage of Chateau Ste. Michelle's Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) and L'Ecole NO 41's 2004 Columbia Valley Merlot ($29). He's also fond of the Washington State blended reds produced by Pepper Bridge.