Need to replace the (110) plug on a dish washer

I need to replace the (110) plug on a dish washer. (3 prong w/ ground) Is the plug something I can get at a hardware store and install myself? or is this something more complicated and needs an electrician.

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Hi Anthony:
A 4 prong plug is intended to handle 220/240 volt and also 110.
It has:
- Red and Black - 110 each 220 total
- White (neutral)
- Green (ground)
You will need to shut off the circuit breaker for your receptacly and then determine what power supply you have available.
You MAY be able to change your receptacle to handle your appliance.
I would NOT change the plug on your appliance as it needs both the 110 and 220 functions.
If you are not ABSOLUTELY SURE what you are doing, get an electrician. Not doing it right could start a fire or present the danger of electrical shock. WHICH HAS THE POTENTIAL OF KILLING SOMEONE.
Cheers.

This advice is on how to correctly install an ELECTRIC DRYER or ELECTRIC RANGE 220-240VAC power cord (US Standards).

3-Prong or 4-Prong – The Difference:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Which One to Use:According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire.If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it.You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.

Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong:Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs.CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in.Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed.You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:

With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters.

With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached.The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end.NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.

Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place.CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.

Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug.NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame.

Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord.NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one.This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose.This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.

Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws.

Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White).The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame.There’s usually a green grounding screw for this.NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point.

Re-install access cover.Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in.With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on.In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance.Safety first.

These steps will work for nearly all appliances that require a 220-240VAC power cord conversion.The power cords are usually rated at 250VAC, 30 amps, and are carried by any hardware store or appliance parts retailer.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:

If you desire to convert an appliance from a 4-prong to a 3-prong, make sure you reconnect the bonding strap and/or ground wire to the Neutral (white) wire at the terminal block.

On some newer appliances, it is REQUIRED that you use a 4-prong plug in order for the timer or clock circuits to function properly due to the way they are configured.Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct recommendation.Even if you currently have a 3-prong receptacle, you still may be required to upgrade to a 4-prong if you encounter this situation.

In many circumstances, new appliances are NOT sold with the power cord due to the various power configurations in homes.Always refer to the contents description on the shipping container the appliance comes with to see what additional items or tools may be required for installation.

This
advice is on how to correctly install an ELECTRIC DRYER or ELECTRIC RANGE
220-240VAC power cord (US Standards).3-Prong or 4-Prong – The
Difference:3-prong
color code:BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May
also be referred to as L1RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May
also be referred to as L2WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually
grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.4-prong
color code:BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May
also be referred to as L1RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May
also be referred to as L2WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO
NOT ground to equipment frame.GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to
equipment frame.Which One to Use:According to the National Electrical Code
(NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a
4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire.If you currently have a home that uses the
3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it.You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong
configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or
if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require
repair.Converting
from 3-prong to 4-prong:Make sure you UNPLUG
the appliance prior to any repairs.CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to
life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged
in.Notably in the area of the terminal
block where the power cords are installed.You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:

With the appliance
UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power
cord enters.

With the cover
removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is
attached.The terminal wires will
be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires
on either end.NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal
bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.

Remove the terminal
lugs holding the old power cord wires in place.CAUTION:
Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.

Remove the bonding
strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug.NOTE:
If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the
appliance frame.

Loosen the screws on
the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove
old power cord.NOTE: If your appliance
does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in
place, it is highly recommended that you install one.This prevents chaffing of the power cord
against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being
pulled and broken loose.This could
pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.

Install new power cord
by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the
screws.

Connect the new power cord
to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black,
Red goes to Red, White goes to White).The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will
connect to the appliance frame.There’s usually a green grounding screw for this.NOTE:
If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect
these two wires at the same point.

Re-install access
cover.Turn off the service breaker
to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in.With the breaker in the off position,
plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on.In the event, something was wired
incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle
and controlled from a distance.Safety first.

If the "3-prong" outlet to which you refer is a standard 110V outlet then adding another is very straightforward. It is quite common, though, for dryers to require a 220V outlet which is a different deal entirely (washers normally require only 110V). If that's the case (one needs 110, the other needs 220) then you probably want to consult a handy neighbor or a pro. If both need 110, then the first potential complicating factor is the size of the junction box the outlet is in. If it's a 2-gang box with one outlet in it, adding another outlet is easy - just add it to the box. If it's a 1-gang box (i.e., it's filled by the one outlet) then you'll have to replace the box before adding an outlet and again you'd probably want to enlist a handy neighbor or pro to help. The second potential complicating factor is the size of the breaker. If both machines want 110 and you add an outlet you might - *might* - be overloading the circuit (without knowing what machines you're talking about, it's an open question), in which case you'd have to add another circuit to the box for the additional outlet - again, a handy neighbor or pro can help with that.

So, in summary: if both machines use a standard 110V 3-prong plug adding another outlet is usually simple - you could even use a heavy-duty outlet multiplier. If either machine needs 220, see a pro or a DIYer.

As to what getting a pro might cost: I'm sorry, I have no idea. That depends on where you are and how difficult the job is. I can't even give you an estimate of how much it would cost me here 'cause I do all that sort of stuff myself.

Speaking of these United States, here's how that goes.In this country, dryers are called 220, but they are really 110 twice!So, on the back of the dryer is a plug with 3 or 4 prongs.( hope you can get this from my description. )On a 3 prong plug, the two "slanted" prongs are each hooked to 110 volt p service. The "L" shaped prong is a ground.

If you have a 4 pronged plug, the two flat straight prongs are 110 volt each, and the "L" shaped and the round prong are both grounded.

FYI: Each of the 110 volt wires has a different function. One powers the motor, the other the heating element.Be Blessed.

Hello Troy, I have checked the schematic which should be located behind the sloping front panel above the washer lid. The washer portion is powered by 110 vac supplied from the dryer's L1 connection (black) and the neutral (white). It should be quite simple to make an adapter with "hardware store" parts like a standard 20 amp plug and an appropriate 220 volt receptical. Please verify that the neutral lead goes to chassis ground and make use of the 110 plug's ground to the receptacal ground (green headed screws) with a seperate lead, for your safety. When the machine is plugged into the adapter, only the washer should function.As a final note, I see that the dryer motor and timer are also 110 volt but are connected from the other hot lead, L2, to neutral. Only the heater is powered by 220 vac. Therefore if you should connect to L2 by mistake, only the dryer drum would operate. Unfortunately, I do not see a simple way to make both the washer and dryer run on a single 110 feed.

Your dryer is called 220, but in actuality it is only 110 X 2. If you have a 3 pronged plug to go into the wall, each of the slanted & flat prongs are carrying 110 volts. The roundish center prong is a ground.
One of the flat prongs is for the motor and the controls, the other is for the heating element. If you have a 4 pronged plug, the two side flat parallel lugs are 110 volts each, and the top flat and the roundish lugs are both ground.
Be blessed.

go to the local hardware store and buy the male plug for the female plug that you have in the wall just hook up the three plugh in place of the 4 wire plug. The 4 wire has a netural and a ground which is the same thing and two 110 hot wires that are 110 v each, hook up the copper colored wires to the copper colered wires and the one ground on silver. screw or white to silver wire. this is Ground you only need one ground and if the plug on the wall is three prong it is go to use a three wire plug the third wire is for a backup ground on new systems

This advice is on how to correctly install an ELECTRIC DRYER or ELECTRICRANGE 220-240VAC power cord (US Standards).

3-Prong or 4-Prong – The Difference:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Which One to Use: According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire. If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it. You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.

Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong: Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs. CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in. Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed. You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:

With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters.

With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached. The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end. NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.

Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place. CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.

Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug. NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame.

Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord. NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one. This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose. This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.

Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws.

Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White). The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame. There’s usually a green grounding screw for this. NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point.

Re-install access cover. Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in. With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on. In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance. Safety first.

These steps will work for nearly all appliances that require a 220-240VAC power cord conversion. The power cords are usually rated at 250VAC, 30 amps, and are carried by any hardware store or appliance parts retailer.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:

If you desire to convert an appliance from a 4-prong to a 3-prong, make sure you reconnect the bonding strap and/or ground wire to the Neutral (white) wire at the terminal block.

On some newer appliances, it is REQUIRED that you use a 4-prong plug in order for the timer or clock circuits to function properly due to the way they are configured. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct recommendation. Even if you currently have a 3-prong receptacle, you still may be required to upgrade to a 4-prong if you encounter this situation.

In many circumstances, new appliances are NOT sold with the power cord due to the various power configurations in homes. Always refer to the contents description on the shipping container the appliance comes with to see what additional items or tools may be required for installation.

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Which One to Use: According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire. If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it. You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.

Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong: Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs. CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in. Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed. You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:

1. With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters. 2. With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached. The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end. NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire. 3. Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place. CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance. 4. Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug. NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame. 5. Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord. NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one. This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose. This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance. 6. Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws. 7. Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White). The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame. There’s usually a green grounding screw for this. NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point. 8. Re-install access cover. Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in. With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on. In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance. Safety first.

These steps will work for nearly all appliances that require a 220-240VAC power cord conversion. The power cords are usually rated at 250VAC, 30 amps, and are carried by any hardware store or appliance parts retailer.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:

1. If you desire to convert an appliance from a 4-prong to a 3-prong, make sure you reconnect the bonding strap and/or ground wire to the Neutral (white) wire at the terminal block. 2. On some newer appliances, it is REQUIRED that you use a 4-prong plug in order for the timer or clock circuits to function properly due to the way they are configured. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct recommendation. Even if you currently have a 3-prong receptacle, you still may be required to upgrade to a 4-prong if you encounter this situation. 3. In many circumstances, new appliances are NOT sold with the power cord due to the various power configurations in homes. Always refer to the contents description on the shipping container the appliance comes with to see what additional items or tools may be required for installation.

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