I received my Rovelight and have my first shoot tomorrow. I am wondering if anyone can recommend a boom that is strong enough to handle the Rovelight and softbox? I try and look through Amazon, but there seems to be thousands of them. Just looking for one that someone else has used and is happy with and confident in. Thanks.

KHAWACHEN wrote in post #18067684I see...Reason i ask is I picked up the Xplor 600 with R2 remote for Nikon (although it was double the price as RL600).Was wondering if i just pick up an R2 receiver and attach it to the Rovelight then maybe i can use both together: Rovelight and Xplor.Use RlL as backlight or side and use Xplor with TTL as main light. Both HSS.

But I have listed he Rovelight for sale so we'll see...

You do not need a separate receiver for the Rovelight if using the R2 transmitter. Put the V2 Rovelight transmitter in the hotshoe of the R2 transmitter. The R2 transmitter will now trigger both the Xplor and the Rovelight in HSS. You control the Xplor in Manual or TTL mode through the Wireless X system and the Rovelight via it's own transmitter in the hotshoe of the R2 transmitter. In HSS you can gain some flash exposure (if needed at 1/1 power) with the Rovelight by adding some "flash sync timing" dialed into the R2 transmitter in Custom Function "00". This delay in the FP sync signal does not usually effect the X system strobes in HSS as only about 20ms of delay is needed to optimize the flash exposure of the Rovelight.

golfecho wrote in post #18068471I received my Rovelight and have my first shoot tomorrow. I am wondering if anyone can recommend a boom that is strong enough to handle the Rovelight and softbox? I try and look through Amazon, but there seems to be thousands of them. Just looking for one that someone else has used and is happy with and confident in. Thanks.

The Rovelight with modifier is quite heavy (c4.0 Kg combined), so I went with a Kupo Steel Baby boom and Drop down Pin - and a safety line. That boom requires a Grip-head which in turn requires a strong stand complete with full length welded-in Baby Pin top (ie. it looks like a C-stand top). A six Kg counter-balance Wt would get you a reasonable offset from the stand.

OceanRipple* wrote in post #18068553The Rovelight with modifier is quite heavy, so I went with a Kupo Steel Baby boom and Drop down Pin - and a safety line. That boom requires a Grip-head which in turn requires a strong stand complete with full length welded-in Baby Pin top (ie. it looks like a C-stand top). A six Kg counter-balance Wt would get you a reasonable offset from the stand.

I picked up back in may a pair of the RL600 and have been using them with my Yongnuo triggers for my nikon d800. I then switched systems to sony and picked up the Godox X1t-s for the sony camera, but I cant use it by itself... I have to always have the rovelight trigger on top of it. is that how its supposed to be ?

For some reason I was thinking that I would be able to eliminate the rovelight trigger completely and just use the Godox and it would talk to the strobe and I wouldnt be able to just adjust the power.

can anyone confirm this or if you are able to... can you share your settings?

I picked up back in may a pair of the RL600 and have been using them with my Yongnuo triggers for my nikon d800. I then switched systems to sony and picked up the Godox X1t-s for the sony camera, but I cant use it by itself... I have to always have the rovelight trigger on top of it. is that how its supposed to be ?

For some reason I was thinking that I would be able to eliminate the rovelight trigger completely and just use the Godox and it would talk to the strobe and I wouldnt be able to just adjust the power.

can anyone confirm this or if you are able to... can you share your settings?

Thanks in advanced

The Godox X system is not directly compatible with the RL600B. You either need to have an X1 receiver attached to each RL600B for triggering only or you can mount the RL600B transmitter in the hotshoe of the X1 transmitter.

So, I used this for the first time (finally) yesterday. It performed well, right up to the end of the shoot. I was using it in a 43" octa, with inner diffuser only. It was being used in HSS/SS with Yongnuo 622C and Tx. It was on full power, but not being used in a rapid-fire shooting situation.

Towards the end, the flash would just randomly fire. This happened about three or four times.

My Mettle did the same thing, a while back, which is what prompted me to look for a new strobe. It, too, did three or four random fires towards the end of a shoot. Then, it became more frequent, until it is now barely usable.

I'm in south eastern South Carolina. I'm wondering if our humidity has anything to do with it. Or the heat. Or a combination of the two. I'm trying to find my manual to see if there are any specs detailing an ambient temp and humidity level range. Anyone know?

Try replacing the batteries in the transmitters first and do a factory reset on them while you're at it. You July need one 622c as well if you have the V2 transmitter. Just place the V2 transmitter on a hotshoe adapter that will plug into the sync cord port of the 622c on the flash.

MedicinSC wrote in post #18076999So, I used this for the first time (finally) yesterday. It performed well, right up to the end of the shoot. I was using it in a 43" octa, with inner diffuser only. It was being used in HSS/SS with Yongnuo 622C and Tx. It was on full power, but not being used in a rapid-fire shooting situation.

Towards the end, the flash would just randomly fire. This happened about three or four times.

My Mettle did the same thing, a while back, which is what prompted me to look for a new strobe. It, too, did three or four random fires towards the end of a shoot. Then, it became more frequent, until it is now barely usable.

I'm in south eastern South Carolina. I'm wondering if our humidity has anything to do with it. Or the heat. Or a combination of the two. I'm trying to find my manual to see if there are any specs detailing an ambient temp and humidity level range. Anyone know?

Heya,

I had the same thing on one of my Rovelights a while back, it was the YN622 I was using. I tried a different transceiver and it doesn't do it anymore. Change it up and see how it does. It could be the pc sync cord if it's not snug & tight. It could be the transceiver just leaking signal. Test both transceivers, the one on the Rove and the one on the camera since they talk.

My Rovelight also randomly fires. I need to rule out the transmitter as well.

I'm pretty much moving towards the ND Filter camp and getting away from HSS. Sitting there taking shots and trying to chimp in the sunshine doesn't seem like the proper way to go about this to me. I like more control over my environment and know that when I click that button, I get what I want.

Brad999 wrote in post #18077906My Rovelight also randomly fires. I need to rule out the transmitter as well.

I'm pretty much moving towards the ND Filter camp and getting away from HSS. Sitting there taking shots and trying to chimp in the sunshine doesn't seem like the proper way to go about this to me. I like more control over my environment and know that when I click that button, I get what I want.

My latest stuff was all without HSS and without ND filter, just at normal sync speed, manual strobing. I just selected places/times where ambient light would be at range of exposure that would be ok with sync speed settings and wide aperture and did my shoots in those times & locations. If it's really bright out, I just use a ND filter and F2.8, and it's fine like that. Once you're used to metering with a light meter and there's no guess work, it's faster, smoother, and you get what you want with measurements to know you're there, instead of looking at an LCD to guess. Funny thing is I got the Rovelight for the HSS, but ultimately I use it less and less. Granted, there were not great options for a portable 600ws strobe at the time. I don't regret it, my light has been bullet proof.

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