Crystal red shrimp keep dying. help please

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supermansteve32 3

supermansteve32 3

Hi, I have Crystal red shrimp and I successfully raised and bred them in a 15 gallon tank but after I moved them to a larger 60 gallon tank they all slowly die off. I started off with the 30 I had in my other tank (which all died), but I guess I didn't wait for it to cycle. I bought 10 more a few months later and now I'm on 10 more after that. these are dying now too. I change my water 30% every week. The only difference from this tank and the previous tank is the filter and driftwood. The old tank had an over the back filter, this one has a Fluval 106. The other one had some driftwood (not sure what kind), this one has Malasian Driftwood. I'm not sure why they're dying. I've added and propeller, a splash bar, a micro filter for intake, O2, everything I can think of. Please help

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supermansteve32 3

supermansteve32 3

Thanks guys, I'll have to get back to you on all the water parameters. I won't be home until Sunday. To answer some of your questions: no the propeller is not shrimp proof but it is at the top of the tank, perhaps I'll need to put some sponge around the intake. My substrate is 2 of Fluval Plant and Shrimp Stratum, 8.8-Pound. I am using RO water remineralized with Salty Shrimp GHKH. Last time I checked my pH, ammonia, nitrate, gh, kh were all in normal parameters. I don't feed them much. my old tank I never fed them and they were fine.

not sure if I'm allowed to paste a link here or not. I installed it because there wasn't a lot of water flow at the bottom.

I also had another question that you all may help with. Is there a specific depth of an aquarium that CRS can't tolerate? My 60 gallon I have now is a little deeper than my successful 15 gallon, so I wasn't sure if they could handle the water pressure. thanks everyone.

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supermansteve32 3

supermansteve32 3

Hello, sorry it took me so long to respond. I tested my water parameters shortly after posting and all was within normal limists. I did as recommended and only changed ~10%, which for me would be 6 gallons, but I only change 5 because its easier. Since then the 2 remaining CRS I had stayed alive, no reproduction because I think they were both male. I waited a few months to see if that was the issue before purchasing more. I bought 10 more online and they are still alive.

I also turned off the propeller. I still have the splash bar, which doesn't make too much flow overall, and I think it helps with oxygenating the tank.

I read a few of you suggest that I switch from salty shrimp GHKH to just the Salty shrimp GH, I will do so. thanks everyone for your help.

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supermansteve32 3

supermansteve32 3

Update. shrimp are still alive and looking healthy. I did look at my salty shrimp and I did in fact use the Gh, not the Gh +Kh. so that's good. Just one question I have. I think I read somewhere that CRS will not breed as frequently in the winter months is this true? thanks everyone

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Zoidburg 143

Zoidburg 143

Yes, that's true of many shrimp species/type. Some breeders are able to get around it by using heaters in the winter (either in tank heaters or just heating up the room), while others, no matter what they do, breeding slows down. Some speculate that it may have to do with the barometric pressure in the atmosphere.

I have a small 2g tank of opae ulas. I've got 2 berried females in that tank right now, and I'm not sure if they were berried before I moved the tank (a week ago this saturday) or if they became berried after moving the tank. I drained *some* of the water out so there wouldn't be any spillage moving the tank (didn't even look in it closely), then moved the tank to it's new location (~10 minute drive) and filled it back up using the same water I took out. (snagged a few babies, too!) All the adults were in hiding and I didn't feel like disturbing the tank too much so I let them settle in. (they are brackish water shrimp)

Did a huge water change on another tank a few weeks back now... maybe about 80-90% water. No berried anything.... Neocaridina and Caridina alike. Have done two ~20% changes since then, still nothing. Heater, no heater. Doesn't matter.

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Ok then. Will add more plants to try and reduce nitrates.
Thanks Simon and JayC for the pointers and hints. I think the Dino Spit is the Glutaraldehyde and the Dino Pee has the macro and micronutrients. I will leave off the Glutaraldehyde and reduce the dose of the Pee to one third. I am pretty careful with the dosing.
Good news is that there are at least two RCS females still in the tank and looking well. Maybe they went and hid and moulded after the big water change? The surviving DAE are all looking well.
Anyway will take all your advice on board and do smaller water changes and work out a dripper system.