Pedro Subijana continues to accumulate experience, intellectual maturity, serenity… Yet at the same time each year, an impetuous and imaginative young spirit surges from within him, intermingling his desire to play, to live, with an enormous backlog that helps to build his identity after so many years. And so, once again he returns to the pages of this section, on this occasion with a dish that captures all of the qualities stated above. From an aesthetic point of view it represents a fisherman’s net pulled up from marine depths filled with mollusks. From an elemental perspective it is...