15 watts is giggable if there is a house PA. As for the 50 watt part, I think you are just a little confused. How would you go about "boosting the output"? I don't want you ruining an amp, care to elaborate?

see thats my problem...I'm trying to figure that out

The problem with driving the 8x10 cab with a 15w head is that its not as "efficient". Granted it will still sound decent but you have the tendancy to wear out the cones more by doing this.

baisically a class A amp takes the low gain input from the guitar, puts it on top of a signal given by the OT, and then puts it to a speaker. Based on however that OT is hooked up, you can get different voltage increases, aka 120:120 ; 120:360 ; 120;420 based on how you wire it up.

this was kinda the idea that I had, only instead of needing the full 120:420 it wouldn't need as big of a bump.

I'm just trying to formulate ideas here on how to more effectively drive the cab.

and no, you can turn an amp on without a load, most amps have a circuit to deal with it when your speaker isn't hooked up, its not recomended but it wont blow anything up, cause undo wear possibly on tubes though.[/quote]

ever wonder why you have to match impedences??? its all simple circuits. If the OT is set up to run a 8 ohm, then it doesn't matter what you hook into it as long as its still 8 ohms. but if you've got a crap ton of load on it, you end up either drawing voltage or current depending on how you have the speakers wired. Power is defined as voltage*current. Voltage is a potential difference and current is the ability to do work. Without one or the other, your SOL. The OT might be rated at 8 ohms of resistance but the more you hook up, the less current and voltage you have to drive the speaker coils with. Each 10" speaker takes ~10W of power to drive it well. you under drive it, it will work but rather inefficiently when you try to get volume out of it. There's simply not enough there to drive them without getting warm. The resonse is slower and you don't get a good snappy response as if you were outputing what was recomended.

this is also why an 8 ohm system can drive 16's but not vice versa. The system needs to pump enough power to drive the 8, so extra impedence doesn't matter but it just wont work as well. The other way arround is over powered and you end up going past the rating for the speaker.

also, your wrong in the whole open-circuit thing. Almost all modern amps have built in load resistors to make sure the whole thing doesn't blow up in an event of a speaker failure. again, not recomended for extended periods but its not going to blow up.

The lead channel is damn good also big thick and with good tubes and speakers in my amp not muddy......if you get it mess around with some different tubes...its amazing how much you can change this amp with 12ax7s......it's classic marshall!

Hrm well. Well, let's get the obvious one out of the way first and then we can move on to why this entire post is a jumble of mouth drool.

Tsl602. Classic Marshall.

Tell me mmjohn, which classic marshall is this amp based on? Is it the venerable JTM45? Is it the JMP50? JMP100? The baby 18 watter? Well it couldn't be any of those amps could it. None of those amps have master volumes...

Which classic era of Marshall tones does your TSL602 cover?? The fully cranked WHO through a full stack of greenback era?

Well no. The TSL602 has nothing in common with those amps.

Let's get something straight here folks. There is no such thing as a classic marshall or a classic fender sound that comes out of a circuit with a master volume. None. All of the old rock classics that Marshall and Fender staked their reputation on were non master volume amps that derived most of their distortion from the power amp stage. FACT. 1 million percent fact.

Unless your amp comes with a switch that takes the master volume out of the circuit you are not getting those tones. Your amp is absolutely not getting the right mix of preamp and power amp distortion.

So now the second point. A 12ax7 is a preamp tube. Some sound different then others. Unfortunately, when you're going for tone that is biased heavily towards power tube distortion which 12ax7 you have isn't going to make that big of a difference as long as it's not terribad. We're talking 1 or 2 12ax7 gain stages in most of the big Marshalls here. When you get into 4-6 gain stages you're preamp tube choices will matter a shit load.

Classic Marshall? not so much.

mmjohn you join the ranks of Blues Jr., great classic fender cleans, used for dream theater guy.

Stupid idiot of the day first edition

vs. tech notes of a well known amp builder and generally someone who knows what the hell he's talking about:http://www.peavey.com/support/techn...y/chapter_3. pdf page 4, last paragraphI'll let you draw your own conclusions.There is also a lot of other good info there too worth reading.Here's the paragraph in question from Hartley Peavey:

1:42pmA widely held misconception is that tubes “clip” dif- ferently than transistors. Many think that tubes clip with a “slightly rounded waveform” while a transis- tor clips totally square... The FACT is that TUBES CLIP JUST AS “SQUARELY” AS TRANSISTORS, albeit usually tubes tend to clip asymmetrically4(one side clips before the other) while transistors generally clip more “symmetrically.”

Bant Blog: Some people are idiots and the straight

"Don’t listen to the BS on from the UG tube snobs who can’t get off the bandwagon for these amps; tube amps don’t sound good if you have to keep the volume down. Get a modeling amp or a tube preamp and some monitor speakers. If you’re dumb enough to get on the UG tube snob bandwagon buy the Jet City so you can at least sell it later when you realize how bad tube amps are with the volume between .5 and 1."

Oh really dude is that your honest to goodness opinion about tube amps? Two things gave me the sads here. or maybe the sids.

And instead of overloading the power section of the amp, “My whole deal from day one was I wanted to get it all in the preamp, because I wanted to be able to have this thing sound just as good at any volume. I wanted to be to turn it down, and play in my living room, and still have the same tone when I went to a club and cranked the thing up.

Let's see what Mike has to say about his Jet City based on the SLO circuit.

And instead of overloading the power section of the amp, “My whole deal from day one was I wanted to get it all in the preamp, because I wanted to be able to have this thing sound just as good at any volume. I wanted to be to turn it down, and play in my living room, and still have the same tone when I went to a club and cranked the thing up.

Glad we could clear that up.

2. The word snob is interesting. It's ever the insult of the proletariat, a real working class middle finger salute to those that enjoy the finer things in life. What's it about really? A wine snob, a car snob, a call girl snob? Really it means that you're the type of person that isn't satisfied by the commonly available...that you like the rare and the boutique. Now of course there are ways to do it wrong. But, how can it be universally bad to like better things? Color me confused.

Now the internet is an interesting place. We happen to live in an age where we are supposed to value everyone's opinions and everything is subjective and all that. To that I say...suck on a bag of dicks and die.

I'm a little bit more old school. It's not like people didn't have opinions before this great era of mass communication. No see before you could just ignore people because the people that were idiotic and wrong would be consigned to their hole in the wall and the people who were consistently right would garner more attention. Free market natural selection at it's best.

So how about a quick history lesson so we can set this stupid which tube amp should I get bullshit to rest.

Some facts in no particular order:

Tube amps sound better when they are cranked. This is very much true if you were alive during the sixties. If you're favorite bands are Creedence and Van Halen you're good to go. You need to crank your amps. That sound is American tube (fender) or British tube (marshall) take to the extremes. Unfortunately, if that's your cup of tea...you should start piling some bricks in your bedroom. 5 watts at full bore will break 90-95 decibals easy. 1 watt at full bore will break 90-95 decibels easy. A 1 watt amp is only half as loud as a 10 watt amp is only half as loud as a 100 watt amp. Standing next to a 100 watt amp cranked all the way will blind you, shatter your eardrums and kill you. 1 watt will make your neighbors kill you. Don't believe me? grab a 1-2 watt amp, a 5 watt amp, a 10 watt amp, a 18 watt amp, a 50 watt amp, and a 100 watt amp and run them all at once and see how much volume difference there actually is. Oh wait. I did that.

If you were born in the 90s there's a 50 percent chance that the phrase cranked tube amp doesn't mean anything to you. If you are gross looking, wear all black, only know fat chicks, and/or still a virgin there's a 100 percent chance that cranked tube amp doesn't mean jack shit to you. The sound of anything past the mid 80s relies less and less on powertube distortion. As soon as Rivera, Smith, Soldano and the others hit the scene it was over. You want well designed preamp tube distortion. 4,5,6 stages. You don't want the power tubes to distort when your diming the gain on a 5+unity preamp gain stage. Your sound will turn into a sea of mud faster then your last hot carl. As long as the power tubes are doing what they are meant to do, amplifying, you're good to go.

Don't listen to that .5 on the volume doesn't work bullshit. If that was true everyone who owned a hifi monoblock speaker amp would be deaf as hell. Trust me. This baby http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/products/1300.asp sounds fine for some after dinner Stravinsky.