Spina de Mul

Summer 2012, along with my tireless friend Helmut Gargitter, a talented alpinist and strong mountain guide, we've managed to establish another difficult route up the outstanding south face of Col Bechei.

The route is located on the righthand side and follows a series of obvious pockets up almost always solid, rough rock. We have equipped the route with bolts but we recommend you nevertheless take a set friends and nuts.

You can either abseil off the route if you want to repeat another line nearby, or walk off easily down the alpine meadows, along the path that leads to Lake Limo and on to Rifugio Fanes.

GETTING THERE

From Brunico continue to San Lorenzo and on to San Vigilio di Marebbe. From here follow the road up to the Pederü hut. Park here.

ACCESS

From Rifugio Pederü (1540m) ascend to Rifugio Fanes (2060m) in circa 1.5 hours. From here, continue to the Limo col at 2174 m. Head towards the lake and take the path that leads to the top of Col Bechei. At the lake (after ca. 150 meters) leave the main path rightwards and continue along a track, gain circa 40m in altitude and then descend circa 80m in altitude into a valley, following the track used by chamois left towards the SE Face. From here the obvious wall springs tinto view. Scramble up the steep grassy slopes beneath the face, then traverse across. The route starts on the very right, close to a niche, a bolt marks the start. 1 hour and 10 minutes from the Fanes refuge.

ROUTE

P1: 6cP2: 6bP3: 7bP4: 7bP5: 7cP6: 6cP7: 6a

DESCENT

From the summit, follow cairns and traverse diagonally left (facing the mountain) slightly uphill, quickly reach the path that leads fromt he summit of Col Bechei. Follow this for about 25 minutes to Lake Limo and reach the Fanes or Lavarella hut in a further 20 minutes.