Discussion

Venice Cheap!

Will be in Venice for 1 day only. I've been scared by everyone warning me of extremely high restaurant prices. So where should I go for 1 lunch and 1 dinner? Want good food but don't want to break the bank. I'm staying next to the Accademia Bridge. Thanks.

Second that. It's right around the corner (sort of) from the Accademia bridge on the Dorsoduro side. I was just in Venice for a week with my family and it became our "local" -- we ended up eating there three times. The pizza is to be avoided, but everything else was good and reasonably priced. The tiramisu was the best I've ever had, so save room for dessert!

The people there couldn't have been nicer to our large party that included guests from 17 months to 83 (including half a dozen teenagers -- we were not a quiet bunch!). They even put together a special dessert with candles at the last minute and comped us some house prosecco.

For lunch, try some of the places that serve cicheti (sp?) a/k/a small plates. There's a great stand-up one called Gia Schavi in the Dorsoduro, on the same canal as the squero, which is where gondolas are built. You can have some really nice wine and some small open-faced sandwiches. Another one is Banco Giro, which is near the Rialto market and has tables right out on the Grand Canal. Also, I agree with the Taverna San Trovaso recommendation. By the way, Gia Schiavi is right down the canal from Taverna San Trovaso.

There is a great little pizza place in Campo Santa Margherita. Say 3E a slice, it's take away only. It was recommended to me by an Italian girl who just spent a month in Venice. She said she ate there all the time, and the campo was a popular night spot for young people. I was there during lunch in my one day in Venice, and it fits the bill. Think New Haven pizza...ie. Neapolitan....but obviously much much better than New Haven...but not quite Pulcinella in Calgary (Neapolitan certified...yum!)

Don't know if this is too late: we were in Venice a few days in the middle of May. I recommend to avoid pizza in Venice, whatever your budget may say, because 1> Venice is not known for good pizza, and 2> those who do sell it make pizza generrally so abnormally thick as not to deserve to even be called "Neopolitan" style. If you need a modest priced lunch grab a yummy roll from a bakery and then some meat and cheese from a deli, plus a drink if you wish. My wife and I did this everyday and were able to make large, satisfying sandwiches for 3-5 Eur a person. We were able to try out some amazing (and sometimes expensive) cured meats and cheeses this way. Shops like this can be easily found around the Rialto district, which is close to Accademia bridge. Grab some fresh fruit to go with and you are living the good life.

To get the Venice culinary cultural experience hit the osterie (wine bars) and the cool/room temp appetizers (cicchetti). There are wonderful little sandwiches, grilled veggies, sardines (sarde in saor), baccala (cod), and other seafoods that taste good (even if a little strange for the average American palate) and they are comparitively affordable. One night my wife and I made a dinner of cicchetti, the sparkling red wine Raboso, mineral water and tiramisu to share for only 32Eur total for both of us. The place we liked best is near San Marco, called A la Valigia. A short walk from Accademia bridge.

In so many places you can get a glass of good house wine or either of the popular fizzy wines for 1.5-2Eur a glass. That's a better value than a Coke. Just make sure to grab and pay for your wine at the bar, because if you order while sitting down you'll get hit for more than twice the cost. (You're then free to sit down and enjoy a meal.)

If you want to head out for a decent value at dinner go over to the northernmost district of the city Cannareggio. Walk along the main canals streets (Fondamente) like Misericordia or Sensa. Some great little places along there. We tried and loved: Trattoria Antica Mola (on far side of Misericordia in the Jewish ghetto); Osteria Anice Stellato (on Sensa--definitely make a reservation-fresh fish menu changes daily); and a place almost next door to Anice Stellato, but I neglected to write down its name. We were able to eat for 20-25Eur a person, including a starter, one or two courses, and dessert, along with one glass of wine. Sometimes we shared a starter or one of the courses, and always shared dessert, but we were able to eat a satisfying meal and stay on budget. Note some of these places require some of the dishes to be ordered in pairs, like risotto. This area is a much better value compared to most places, especially closer to where we were staying in the San Marco district. The Cannareggio district is great for wandering in the evening--you'll find more affordable gelaterie and souvenir shops there as well. Cannareggio isn't far by vaporetto from Accademia, but you can walk there too. It's not too far, and you can see all the cool little canals, bridges and shops along the way.