Walk Down Purvis Street: Saveur

Walk Down Purvis Street: Saveur

By Tim Wee

May 15, 2013

Last week, we painted the backstory behind the eclectic little stretch of Purvis Street. In addition, we also had the chance to sample Hainanese fare at the traditional eatery, Yet Con Restaurant. Picking up where we left off last week, we soldier on in our culinary exploration of Purvis Street!

This week, we shift the spotlight from the Hainanese to the French. Although their cultures are worlds apart, both are equally passionate about food and boast rich culinary heritages. Although French cuisine employs sophisticated cooking techniques, the governing mantra is essentially down to good ingredients and a pair of passionate hands.

In fact, a French dining experience boils down to the simple pleasure of indulging yourself in a multitude of flavours. And, it was with this expectation that we set foot into the French eatery, Saveur.

Located in a refurbished shop house on Purvis Street, this no-frills bistro’s deco invoked a quaint old worldly Parisian feel with gorgeous glass chandeliers complete with patches of bare brick wall. Despite a cold white washed façade, the staffs were extremely hospitable and that created a warm intimate atmosphere. It seemed almost apt then to learn that the bistro theme is love.

We quickly settled down and decided on our three courses. Our gastronomic journey started with a serving of Foie Gras ($9.90) followed by the main course of Duck Confit ($10.90) and finished off with a Textures of Citrus dessert ($6.90). Considering that it is sacrilege not to have wine with French fare, we also ordered a reasonably priced glass of House Syrah ($7).

Foie Gras

Soon enough, our starter of foie gras arrived. Elegantly presented in a deep bowl, the pan-seared duck liver was nestled on a bed of apple slaw accompanied by port wine infused apple bits and vanilla beans. As seasoned chicken liver consumers from any chicken rice stores, you can rest assured that any images of ducks being forcefully fed for our dining pleasure were far from thought. If we thought we knew what was coming our way from past chicken liver experience, we couldn’t be more surprised!

This foie gras was a completely new sensation the moment it hit our taste buds. Imagine an oily decadence fatty tissue of salty goodness that was worlds apart from the clean melt in your mouth chicken liver. The sweet infused apple bits and vanilla beans provided a sharp contrast of flavours that left us relishing every morsel. So much so that we were carefully rationing the sinful treat so that it would never finish. Before we knew it, our starter was history.

Duck Confit

Thus, it was time to move on to the main star of the show, the duck confit. First, let's get the minor players out of the way. We begin with the sautéed mushroom. Fulfilling its role adequately as a supporting act, it was adequately sautéed and topped off with some light salt. The orange segments were fresh, but never deviated from serving as the quintessential palate cleanser.

On the other hand, the duck leg was anything but ordinary. Served at the optimal temperature, it was just right for us. The duck’s skin was a crispy delight. We were overwhelmed with the sort of comfort that only deep fried chicken can provide, but with none of the guilt tripping batter.

To top it off, the heavenly duck flesh hiding underneath practically fell off the bone under my knife’s gentle probing. It went divinely with the smooth creamy potato mash that we felt that we were committing murder with every bite. Such good things should technically be illegal! The picture of the crucifix on the wall didn't help one bit. Having said that, this is probably the only time a crazed murderer will ever confess to butchering a carcass to the bone.

Textures of Citrus

Last, but not least was dessert. If the previous dishes were rigid exercise in cooking techniques, dessert was where the chef's bold playful side surfaced.

The freeze-dried pineapple was a welcomed cold sensation that evoked a child-like delight that only ice dessert brought. Every bite of the blood orange jelly was a tangy treat which left us quivering with restrained excitement despite being seated. The perfect combination of smooth and rough crunchy textures was particularly refreshing and highlighted the chef’s innovative spirit.

By the end of our meal, we felt like a goose that was force fed albeit in a good way. It was a sinful indulgence that left us savouring every moment. Then, it dawned on us that our Saveur dining journey was exactly what love is about. Love is a hedonistic pleasure which involves simple things wrapped around decadence before garnishing it with a child-like sense of happiness.