Yarra Yering is an Australian institution. Founded in 1969 by the legendary Dr Bailey Carrodus, it helped reestablish the lush and beautiful Yarra Valley as a viticultural area. There had been vineyards here until the fist world war, but a combination of falling demand, changing tastes and need for sheep farming meant the Yarra's prime agricultural potential was led elsewhere. Carrodus changed all that. Having studied farming in New Zealand, winemaking in South Australia, and a doctorate in philosophy (for plant physiognomy) at Oxford University, he toured Europe and got a feel for the best places to make the sort of wines that having been in the UK had allowed him to taste. Back home, he chose the Yarra Valley. First planed in 1969, he named his vineyard Yarra Yering. 1973 saw the first vintage of the seemingly unimaginatively-named Dry Red Wine No.1 (a Bordeaux blend) and Dry Red Wine No.2, (a Rhône blend). But these names, and the simple but timeless labels that go with them, have become Australian cultural icons, and Yarra Yering rightly claims a place in Australian wine folklore.

Carrodus died in 2008, and perhaps a little of Yarra Yering died with him, but the winemaking is now in the hands of the exceptionally talented Sarah Crowe who I think is making wines of which Baily Carrodus would be proud. Dry Red No.s 1 & 2 remain (joined by white equivalents), but are augmented by a range of singe-variety wines. More recently a series of limited old-vine wines named after the founder has been launched. Although these are exceptional in quality and deserve their hefty price tags, very high scores and awards, I rather prefer - personally - the white label range as being a little closer to the European elegance that inspired Bailey Carrodus in the first place. But they carry his name, and I am sure he would be proud of that.

We were taken through the entire range by Joanne, in the beautiful feels-old-but-is-actually new tasting room on the property, next door to Bailey's house. Yarra Yering keep some museum bottles (which are for sale to their club members), and I was lucky enough to be able to taste some of these too.

Malbec 2016 $105
Planted in 1969, only released as a single varietal three times (78, 10 and 16)
Chocolate and deep brooding fruit aromas. Rich juicy and sweet fruit flavours, blueberry and cocoa. Good. 17

Carrodus Pinot Noir 2015 $275
Oak and bright red fruit and exotic perfume. Elegant and structured with subtle tannins and good acidity. Subtle and slightly savoury smoky characters on the finish. Great length. Very good indeed. 18.5

Carrodus Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 $275
Deep vibrant sweet black fruit aromas. Bramble jelly, pastry and cream. Very rich and concentrated with great extract and balanced acidity. Not jammy, but very rich and concentrated. Very good indeed. 18.5