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Topic: rust work (Read 5035 times)

Anyone know a reliable and effective panelbeater than can fix some rust on my cef. Will need back and front windscreens taken out I reckon. Rust is located in inside guard, engine bay along seam between inner guard and firewall, both a-pillars, along windscreen pillar on passenger side and back window. Had both fixed professionally earlier, however their fix Isn't so permanent.

Try getting a few quotes from your local panelbeaters. I was happy to pay for a couple of taxi rides to save a few hundred dollars. Most panelbeaters think rust repairs are beneath them and don't really want the work- one quoted me $500 per door - Apache: $250 for both doors.

Hefty drive?!!! Christchurch with just a break for the ferry is a hefty drive - a trip over the harbour bridge is hardly epic.

Mark honestly knows his stuff so well, he's been in the business for ages. Does the work no one else will touch because he knows better than these boutique panelbeaters and glorified shops. He's one of the few old guys left in the business who doesn't just scrap and throw things away. He hardly makes money on jobs we give him, makes most of his money on insurance jobs. He lives a simple life so he doesn't have much overheads so doesn't charge us heaps.

Went to see Mark today regarding my rust work. He reckons a lot of it could be fixed by me at home which I'm happy to hear. I'm going to see him on Saturday afternoon to get a better look at the rust on the Cefiro. I might just upload some photos to the forum to show the extent of it. Has anyone had luck cleaning the drain holes along the driver and passenger front windscreen pillars? Need to have a really good clean of the crap to make sure it doesn't continue the issue.

I haven't updated this thread at all. I went to see Mark the following weekend and he looked over the work there and said I could most of it myself, and gave me a list of rust work supplies to pick up:

"Emery Paper" or Metal Cloth - Sold at Bunning's for ~$30.00 a roll. (Tough backing so doesn't cut grooves like sandpaper).Aerosol Fish Oil - Sold at SuperCheap (SCA) (Yes! Even the cheap and nasty will do)Paint BrushesRust Converter (Septone) - Sold at SCA

Out of all the supplies, I didn't buy the Metal cloth as my funds ran out before I could buy some. However I went back the following weekend and he gave a free hands-on tutorial on how to kill it.

Basically sand the loose rust chips away until it's bare metal. Using a container filled with a small amount of the rust converter and a paint brush, dab the rust converter onto the rusted area. Dabbing the area allows the rust converter to get into the metal as opposed to just sitting on the surface. He said he leaves it for roughly ~3 hours, however in this case we left it for like 30 minute. Using another clean paint brush, I dabbed the rust converted areas with black etch primer, to get the primer nice and close to the metal surface. Two or three coats should suffice. Leave to dry.

Once dry, cover the area with the fish oil. This s**t stinks like a fish market, but Mark suggest I just lay it on there. Nope. I wiped down the surfaces where there wasn't converted rust, but didn't wipe enough to remove all the fish oil.

Will be going back the following weekend after Queen's Birthday weekend to get some rust holes plates. Priced up a can with paint to match the cars colour code. $35.00/can from Shane's Car Colours in Papakura. So if you guys need cans, organise a list and I can bring them into town on the Friday's.