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If the shelving is fixed, you'll have to be quite handy with a sprayer. And spraying oil on furniture grade objects is a lot different than spraying flat on walls. I'm not trying to discourage you, or discount your ability, but unless you're experienced you may end with a totally unacceptable finish that will take a lot to correct. As mustang said, juice the finish with some penetrol, and I like to add a bit of thinner. I've achieved some near spray looking finishes with BM Satin Impervo. Years ago, in the quaint old days of better living through chemistry, you'd get spray looking finishes with a brush with SI. I can't speak to SW semi. You could use a mohair cover, which will give you a nice factory looking appearance and a better chance of leveling than a brush. Or, you could apply with a mohair, and use a nice soft, not firm, latex brush with a very light touch to lay off. I think you'll be happy with the results. Just don't get too far ahead of yourself with the roller.

Broughton, I missed a point in your question. You mention even finish. The trick to getting an even finish with a brush or roller is consistency of paint applied and area covered with that amount. I watch inexperienced painters pick up differing amounts of material with brush or roller, and then applying those differing amounts to varying square areas, with no consistency of either. That will obviously lead to high/low builds in your finish. When doing brush work, pour a bit more than a quart in an old clean paint can. It takes a few minutes to work the paint into the center, the resevoir, of the brush. Then dip your brush in just past the halfway point, tap it back and forth lightly, one/two, against the inside of the can. (Never wipe a brush against the rim unless the brush becomes overfilled or your clearing to do some laying off). Then begin applying the paint to your surface in a methodical way, spreading only as far as when you begin to feel the brush drag because it's becoming dry. Dip again to the same level, tap it, and apply it to about the same square area as your last load. Do two or three dips and do one big layoff, always brushing back into a previously painted area. Never start a layoff from inside a painted area, but from the leading edge of your work. And you end the layoff lifting the brush as you come to the end, like an airplane lifting off, never stop and lift. Example of methodical. when I paint crown molding, I paint the top cut against the ceiling the length of my reach, then I brush the bottom edge at the wall, then fill in the middle, and lay the whole section off at once after it's coated. Then move to the next section, repeat. Also, when your brushing, it's more laying it on than brushing. Overbrushing/underapplying/too much pressure on the brush will result in a scratch coat which can result in a non-leveled brushmarked finish. I think that's what Mustang was implying. The trick to nice brushwork is knowing how to apply the right amount of paint in the right way without getting puddles or scratching it. They don't explain these things in the "he's priming while she's painting" commercials. And, always look back to pick up any runs or drips before they set in. Play around with it, you'll get it. You have the whole first coat to get the hang of it.

I guess my follow up question since you warned me about oil is, is there a paint with the durability of oil that isnt as hard to work with?

Actually, some of the new tech paints, like the waterbornes, look and feel very similar to oil. However, they can be a bit tricky to finesse. They're a bit heavy bodied and set up quickly (not a lot of "open time"). I used BM's new Advance, which is a water reducible oil based product. Wasn't too crazy about. Wear some running shoes if you use it, as you'll be chasing it all day long. You'll be fine. Pay attention, apply yourself, take your time and follow some tips the last clown gave and you'll be fine. Above all, don't approach it dismissively like it's something easy that anybody can do, it's not. I do everything I suggested to you earlier without even a thought, it's second nature. However, I still zone out when I paint because it requires attention. Chatty Kathy's do not a good painter make.

To start with, the mohair roller cover suggestion was worth the price of admission alone, I can't believe I'm just now finding out about that. I ended up going with a sherwin Williams primer over SW proclassic latex enamel. It was a little tricky to get used to, sets up fast, but once I got used to working with it, it was doable.

The brush technique of how to load the brush with paint and then how to lay off starting at the leading edge and lifting off while still moving was key.

The result is a finish every bit as smooth and even as I hoped for. Thank you guys for the excellent and thorough advice. I feel like I should print out your posts and bind them in a pamphlet!

To start with, the mohair roller cover suggestion was worth the price of admission alone, I can't believe I'm just now finding out about that. I ended up going with a sherwin Williams primer over SW proclassic latex enamel. It was a little tricky to get used to, sets up fast, but once I got used to working with it, it was doable.

The brush technique of how to load the brush with paint and then how to lay off starting at the leading edge and lifting off while still moving was key.

The result is a finish every bit as smooth and even as I hoped for. Thank you guys for the excellent and thorough advice. I feel like I should print out your posts and bind them in a pamphlet!

Thanks again,
Ben

Joe's post are very thorough and informative, even I can understand them.

The Following User Says Thank You to mustangmike3789 For This Useful Post:

To start with, the mohair roller cover suggestion was worth the price of admission alone, I can't believe I'm just now finding out about that. I ended up going with a sherwin Williams primer over SW proclassic latex enamel. It was a little tricky to get used to, sets up fast, but once I got used to working with it, it was doable.

The brush technique of how to load the brush with paint and then how to lay off starting at the leading edge and lifting off while still moving was key.

The result is a finish every bit as smooth and even as I hoped for. Thank you guys for the excellent and thorough advice. I feel like I should print out your posts and bind them in a pamphlet!

Thanks again,
Ben

That's good news Ben. That's why we're here. What stage are you at in the job? Did you use a primer over latex preparing to finish with oil? Keep us posted.

That's good news Ben. That's why we're here. What stage are you at in the job? Did you use a primer over latex preparing to finish with oil? Keep us posted.

Oop, that was a misprint on my part, it should have said that I put the pro classic latex enamel over the primer. I am using the latex enamel as my top coat. My rep at SW talked me into that since it has the ease of a latex with a bit more durability.

I'm done with my first coat of latex enamel and I'm going to put on my second coat tomorrow. It looks great already, I used the premium primer from SW and it really males the semi gloss sheen of the enamel stand out. This second coat will be to smooth everything out. It took me probably halfway into my first coat to perfect the technique you taught me so this next coat will smooth out that first half.

Oop, that was a misprint on my part, it should have said that I put the pro classic latex enamel over the primer. I am using the latex enamel as my top coat. My rep at SW talked me into that since it has the ease of a latex with a bit more durability.

I'm done with my first coat of latex enamel and I'm going to put on my second coat tomorrow. It looks great already, I used the premium primer from SW and it really males the semi gloss sheen of the enamel stand out. This second coat will be to smooth everything out. It took me probably halfway into my first coat to perfect the technique you taught me so this next coat will smooth out that first half.

I'll let you know when it's all said and done!

I kind of had the thought that you reversed that. It sounds like you used their primer/sealer, which gives enamel holdout, meaning the primer doesn't absorb any of the first coat sheen, like a straight flat primer only would. As to your final point, listen grasshopper. Working a brush is a lot like playing a guitar, more days than not, I'm Eddie Van Halen, some days I'm Phoebe from "Friends" TV show. I'm grateful when I'm Eddie, but I never approach like I will be. I've yet to perfect anything. Keep practicing/learning, as I do everytime I pick up a brush. Good job.