Hi;
I'm looking to upgrade my GS with a fuseblock for my growing list of electronic gadgets. There are numerous threads here on the most common choices: 1) Blue Sea, 2) Centech, 3) EasternBeaver PC-8, 4) Fuzeblock - and others.

Aerostich is now selling a solid-state module called the PDM60 ($109) that looks quite interesting. Surprisingly - I can't find any discussion of this device on the site. (Google> site:www.advrider.com aerostich PDM60 = NOTHING!)

The Aerostich site provides little technical information beyond three photos.

I believe it means that the circuit stays hot for 180 seconds after the ignition circuit is turned off. If you hooked your aux lights to one of these, it would give you 3 minutes of "walk into the house" light after you key off.

For an aux. power distribution block for non-critical systems, okay - for replacing an existing fuse core system fuse block that comes with the bike and feeds critical systems - I'll stick with plain fuses, thanks.

probably similar to RetainedAccessoryPower in modern vehicles where some ignition circuits are powered after then ignition is turned off for a limited time.....
kool idea BUT I will stick with fuses thanks unless maybe if they make a shiny version

I, too, am interested in this device, as: 1) I received the Aerostich catalog in today's mail, and; 2) I was thinking about cleaning up my accessory wiring as a Winter project.

However, I have at least one reservation regarding the PDM60 so far. This concerns circuit 1, the circuit that can be controlled by a user-supplied switch. If I understand the documentation correctly (thanks, John Smallberries, for posting that), that circuit is always hot if you enable it to be externally switched. This means, in what I see as a real-world typical application, that someone could come along, hit the switch to turn on your added driving lights on your parked bike, and walk away (or, you, yourself, could forget to turn them off). Right?

Now, you could always add a relay to, say, one of the other two 15-amp circuits, and a switch to the relay trigger, but this sort of defeats one of the major advantages of the electronics of this gizmo.

A couple of other comments. Unless I'm having a senior moment or two, I don't see any specs regarding the lengths of the included wires (the ones built into the connector). Be nice to know that; this would determine how many posi-lock connectors (or similar) you'd need to be working with, to connect all your added farkles.

Last, I'd also like to see some documentation regarding both the type of ground connectors provided and the min/max range of wire sizes they can accommodate. That is, are we talking about screw-downs on the wires, slip-over blade connectors, etc.?

Executive summary: I think it's an interesting concept, I think it has at least one flaw - the user-switchable circuit - and I'd like more details.

OK;
Ida from Aerostich has answered many of the questions and promised more answers on Friday.

"The Red Power Lead and the Black Ground Lead are 16". The input and output wires are all 18" long.

The Ground connectors that are provided are 18" long and are 14 AWG. The end which slides into the module has two small tabs on the terminal should be facing down towards the Input/Output wires. The other end of the ground wires is bare. (See picture attached)

All of the wires are bare on the ends allowing for splitting to what ever device that would be desired. Connecting the gray wire (plug position 8) to the battery makes all circuits hot all the time."

I, too, am interested in this device, as: 1) I received the Aerostich catalog in today's mail, and; 2) I was thinking about cleaning up my accessory wiring as a Winter project.

However, I have at least one reservation regarding the PDM60 so far. This concerns circuit 1, the circuit that can be controlled by a user-supplied switch. If I understand the documentation correctly (thanks, John Smallberries, for posting that), that circuit is always hot if you enable it to be externally switched. This means, in what I see as a real-world typical application, that someone could come along, hit the switch to turn on your added driving lights on your parked bike, and walk away (or, you, yourself, could forget to turn them off). Right?

Now, you could always add a relay to, say, one of the other two 15-amp circuits, and a switch to the relay trigger, but this sort of defeats one of the major advantages of the electronics of this gizmo.

A couple of other comments. Unless I'm having a senior moment or two, I don't see any specs regarding the lengths of the included wires (the ones built into the connector). Be nice to know that; this would determine how many posi-lock connectors (or similar) you'd need to be working with, to connect all your added farkles.

Last, I'd also like to see some documentation regarding both the type of ground connectors provided and the min/max range of wire sizes they can accommodate. That is, are we talking about screw-downs on the wires, slip-over blade connectors, etc.?

Executive summary: I think it's an interesting concept, I think it has at least one flaw - the user-switchable circuit - and I'd like more details.

Click to expand...

I believe your assessment of the externally-switched circuit is correct and a secondary relay tied to one of the other circuits would be needed to ensure nothing works without the ignition key. I found this solid state Hella relay: http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=435.
It's a bit pricey, but would retain the solid-state nature of the project.

As I interpret the photo from Ida, all the connections to any devices (power or ground) are done with the bare wire ends from the connector leads. They include additional leads for direct grounds (shown in the photo) that snap into the unused ports in the connector body. The other bare wire end would need to be spliced into the ground of the device. I see lots of these needed for this project: http://www.posi-lock.com/positite.html

However, I have at least one reservation regarding the PDM60 so far. This concerns circuit 1, the circuit that can be controlled by a user-supplied switch. If I understand the documentation correctly (thanks, John Smallberries, for posting that), that circuit is always hot if you enable it to be externally switched. This means, in what I see as a real-world typical application, that someone could come along, hit the switch to turn on your added driving lights on your parked bike, and walk away (or, you, yourself, could forget to turn them off). Right?

On the bikes I've had, I've always connected driving lights to a switch, in order to turn them off when not needed, when idling in stop and go traffic (i.e., when the alternator may not be up to the task), etc.