Roadster Comfort Control Module/Central Locking

1. Top will not operate with the switch, only manually. Makes no sounds when trying
2. Doors will not lock or unlock with button in car or remote (keyfob is absolutely useless)
3. Trunk will not pop with remote or button
4. Windows will not go all the way up, stop about .5" short when the top is shut
5. Overhead lights dont work but everything lights up as it should when the headlights are on
6. Keyless does not work
7. No heated seats
8. etc

Fix:

First, check all fuses! Attempt to connect to module in VagCom. If no connectivity:

1. pull the passenger seat all the way forward, or you could remove it if you want to i guess
2. remove center speaker grill by gently prying around perimeter
3. remove 4 screws around speaker perimeter
4. use a wide screwdriver or something to gently pry around the center trim panel. There are 3 clips on each side, nothing at the top and nothing along the bottom. This was a pain in the ass to get free.
5. Once center panel is removed, pull passenger side panel from bottom then once the bottom is free, pull down to release the top.
6. Remove two phillips screws on trunk latch handle inside of glove box then remove the cable from the latch and set latch aside.
7. use wire cutters or needlenose with a screwdriver to remove right side gray push pin, just pry it out.
8. There is still one push pin in the back, I just pulled with increasing force until the glove box and the pin popped free.
9. This was a little difficult, but with the top up, open the passenger side access panel above the ccm and then use a 10mm socket with extension to remove the two 10mm bolts holding the top of the box. I felt these blindly and removed then blindly.
10. Go back to where the glove box was and you can see the bottom of the ccm, just pry it up and out of the bracket or remove 10mm bolts for the bottom.
11. Maneuver the freed ccm around to where you can release all of the plugs. There are 5 or so and all but 1 are a single push button release. The main black one was a little difficult with a gente pry/release on both sides.
12. Your ccm is now free!

I inspected mine and found a couple pins to have a green/blue hue to them from moisture so I pulled the unit out of its sleeve and found this.

As you can see there is water damage on the bottom of the main board and the other chip that is attached to the board is completely ruined.

For the record, my car is a 2001 225 Roadster and the PN: 8N7 962 267 A

Performance chips will significantly increase your horsepower and torque. They do this primarily by advancing engine timing, adjusting air/fuel ratios, and, in turbocharged vehicles, increasing boost beyond factory limits. The major tuners are APR, REVO, GIAC, Unitronic, and Eurodyne; with all of these companies you can expect to pay around $500 for a flashtune. If you plan on chipping your car and sticking to bolt-ons, the best mods to consider include a turbo-back exhaust, a TIP, a FMIC, and a nice boost controller. You will need 1-step colder plugs gapped to .028, and should at least have a boost gauge. Some other things to consider are a new diverter valve, a catch can, vacuum hose cleanup, and improved bushings and mounts.

Hey,

I'm a noob at this, though I love cars. I own a 2000 Audi TT. It's the 180q and I had to replace the turbo because it went bad a few months after I owned it (not cool). Back then I knew about the k03 and k04, but I wasn't sure if I could get a k04 and just bolt it on in place of the old k03. After reading your FAQ it looks like I could have and I ****ed up there

Anyway, I've bought a Forge DV/Splitter from TTstuff.com and a Haldex controller from HPA. I haven't installed them yet because on the 16th I'm taking my car in to get some FREE NEW SUSPENSION due to some open case against Audi right now. Also (finally) getting the glitchy gauge cluster replaced. After that, though, I'm going to install the Haldex and DV. I'm wanting to get my car's ECU flashed to get the 12psi from the turbo instead of the stock 7.8psi

I was already wanting to get a catch can, FMIC, turbo-back exhaust, boost controller and gauge, along with some lighter pulleys and a Neospeed intake system. How much strain would it put on my car to wait to get the catch can, FMIC, and exhaust if I have to wait a few months after I get it chipped? Also, what would a new TIP, vacuum hose cleanup, bushings and mounts do better for my car that you suggest I get them if I get it chipped?

A chip won't hurt a car, and bolting the parts on after can only help (and you'll see higher power increases vs. stock bolt-on). I think its fun to try something, and get a feel for it before throwing more stuff on

All the other stuff (TIP, mounts, vac cleanup) are smaller things that add quality more than quantity, as in feel of the car, shifting, etc. Things generally feel more solid and crisp, and this is what the Haldex controller will do as well. Skip the intake unless just for sound, the stock airbox flows plenty for the k03. I would definitely throw in a new rear sway when you do the exhaust (same time as the Haldex controller?), the controller/sway combo key.

I'm actually running over to my grandfather's house right now to install my Haldex. I've had it for a month or so now just sitting at my house as I was out of town for work. He's got all the tools anyone would ever need to construct or repair anything, so I can trust he'll have the short-handled hex wrench I need for the install. (Also, thanks for the suggesting a zip-tie over a rubber band for the install.)

The TT feels rigid and planted in the turns. Does a rear swaybar really make a big difference?
(Also, thanks for the advice on all the small things that make the car feel better as you drive. I will be looking into those very soon)

My cars panic always goes off every day even when no one is near it and i dont touch the keys i dont know how to stop it ive tried rolling my windows down and pretty much everything its killing my battery anyone else know how to fix this?!

How do I know an early TT got the suspencion fixed appart from the spoiler and the ASR? button?
Are there any hidden differences that someone trying to sell an revised TT as a revised TT wouldnt change and I could find out about?
Thankx.
And before telling me to ready the FAQ, I've read the FAQ and still cant see where that is.

Was there a suspension fix that was a common problem on the early TTs that this post refers to? I'm looking at a 2000 TT tomorrow and I'd like to know if it's something I should ask about.

Audi modified the suspension parts and settings along with the adding the spoiler and ASR (later ESP) after early TT crashes early in its release, the 1999 Euro models. Originals had problems swapping ends when drivers would lift at high speed, the ducktail eliminates the lift created by the downward curve of the hatchlid. Lifting causes the rear end to float, somewhat because of weight distribution, mostly because of bad aerodynamics, and occurs when the engine is no longer propelling the car under throttle. The steering/suspension was changed because it was "sensitive," though I personally think that issue was overblown, as the TT lost road feel as a result. This may also be the reason rear camber cannot be properly adjusted on the rear OEM control arms.

Some errors & clarifications of the original post

Noob here but have been posting since 2001 on other TT boards.
1. Clarifiaction - 2001 (and thereafter) baseball interior was only offered on roadsters.
2. Clarification - 2001 (and thereafter) 180 roadster was FWD only.
3. Error - 2002 was the last year for the 180 manual 5-speed, not 2003 as implied in the FAQ. I am 100% certain of this and can be found in several sources.

Dash Sensor Part Number (issue you seem to have)
1j1907638b now superseded with pn 1J0907651A
When using the superseded part, you must also get the following parts 1J0972793 (retaining clip) and 1J1972791B (retaining plate)