Description

This route was finally bolted for sport in Sept 2011 (with permission from Mike Dahlberg). HYPER CLASSIC. Route immediately left of Sigma. Stick clip first bolt or climb good holds to first. Has a little bit of everything; liebacking, stemming, pinching, crimping, jamming, pocket-filling and a redpoint crux guarding the anchors. A very special line. Hard to believe that two routes of this caliber exist right beside each other in Minnesota. Believe it. This, along with all five routes in this area, were first climbed by Dahlberg circa 1988. First Lead Ascent by Sean Ferrell.

Found 2 hornets nests with angry ones on them last weekend. On my way down, it seemed some sticks "landed" on the nests and they broke off. Hopefully the route will stay clean now, super fun!!! Beyond my sending level tho thus far

I saw that I was mentioned, but not Tyler on this page, and felt I should say something. I didn't bolt this route, just got permission to try it from Tyler Hoffart, who put in the time, money, and care to equip it. He did a fantastic job. He took a dusty top-rope, communicated respectfully with Mr. Dahlberg, and brought this thing to life. The hardware is bomber, and the bolts are well-placed. I'd say it's now the best bolted route in Minnesota. And 2nd on my top ten best sport routes in the mid-west.

first off, thanks for bolting this rig, tyler hoffart. you did a quality job. you used the best hardware, and the bolt placements are spot-on. well done.

nexus truly is a very fun, aesthetic line. there is only one way up, and that is rare for minnesota routes. nexus packs in a wide variety of movement: stemming, jamming, gastons, highsteps, lockoffs, and a sweet deadpoint. what's more, all cruxes are preceded by very good rests, one of which is a no hands.

that being said, there are downsides to the line. the flared corner climbing does not flow well, and it is preceded by the start, which is a dripping "hanging garden". the rock above the corner is crumbly. those holds are already breaking and crumbling. for these reasons, i think sigma -- not nexus -- remains the best line at sandstone.

as for the grade, i think 12d is more appropriate than 13a. the rests are too good. the individual moves no harder than v5. and, overall, the line feels just a couple notches harder than sigma, which would make nexus' grade near 12d.

i apologize if you think this comment runs long. i wanted to give a thorough explanation of my opinion, as i think this gives the line and the equipper the respect they deserve.