Wednesday, 31 March 2010

@@@!!HAPPY EASTER!!@@@To all Guild members ...have an egg-cellent timeand don't spend all yourmoney on chocolate ...BEADS are far more slimmingand definitely healthier!! ...although, I DO like the ideaof chocolate beads ... yum!

Anyone living in the South East will already know that there aregoing to be 2 Big Bead Shows at Sandown Park, Esher inSurrey this year ...

There was a whisper (from Lorraine) that anyone purchasing this month'sBEAD MAGAZINE could be entitled to 2 free tickets to the first show onSATURDAY 17th APRIL ... it might be worth checking that out!

If any of you can make it - why not meet up at the entrance to thecafe/restaurant at 12pm - wearing a WW GUILD badge tointroduce yourself? I will make every effort to be there myself, so Ihope to meet a few of you ...

"MAKE JEWELLERY"Magazine

As some of you will already know, I am a regular project contributor to "Make Jewellery" magazine and this 'Torque' necklace and earrings set (see above) are this month's featured project (Issue 13). I had originally designed something much simpler, but when the Editor said we need 'Glitz & Glamour' as a theme ... I re-worked my original 'Peas-in-Pod' torque neck-piece with as much bling as I could muster ...I hope this style of necklace - a single ring of wire with a opening at the front - will inspire some of you to create your own variations!!

-------------------------------------E A R W I R E S-------------------------------------I have recently been asked to give advice about creating handmade ear-wires and I can email an Instruction Sheet for 6 different variations.

If you wish to receive this project sheet, please email: linda.jones@wirejewellery.co.ukWith a Subject Heading: EAR-WIRES.(*This is only available to 'follower' members registered on this Guild Blogspot.*)

If you have a background in metalwork and have soldering equipment to hand, it is possible to cut a length of 0.8mm or 0.9mm Sterling Silver wire and heat the end of the wire with your soldering flame, until it 'balls' up into a melted 'blob' to enable you to use this as an end to your fish-hook style ear-wire ... however, for the rest, who are devoid of a blow-torch, you will see some examples in this imageon the right:

from a Beaded-,a Safety-,a Bead Set-and a Spiral-Fish Hook ...and there are a couple more examples in my instruction sheet.

You should always use precious wire for creating your ear wires (Sterling Silver or Gold) however, for fun, costume jewellery, you can CUSTOMISE a ready-made ear-wire by unravelling the end link - straightening out the wire - pulling off the silver bead - and re-threading with a bead of your choice to match the beads of the earring!!

The drawplate allows for the manufactureof almost unlimited lengths of wire fromany ductile metal andby altering the shapeof thedrawplateopening, wire canbe produced in varyingshapes: square, triangular, half-round, butthe most common being round.

Archaelogists tell us that metal drawplateswere used by the Persians in the 6th century, as wellas in Roman times and first came to Europe in the10th century, resulting in widespread manufactureof chain-mail armour in Medieval times.

Until 1812, America imported its wire from the UK and Germany but the 1st World War meant that supplies became cut off. Therefore, from this point on, the Americans began building theirown factories and producing their own wire, so that by the 19th century, the U.S. had begun mass-producing many household products: such as wire whisks and baskets. Its popularity gradually diminished with the advent of plastic, although in recent years, wirework has enjoyed a renaissance, with craft and hobby suppliers producing coloured wires in every tone and gauge.

The beginnings of Wire Jewellery as we know it today, began in England in 1903, thanks to a businessman called Mr Oxley, who ran a family run business called 'C.G.Oxley & Co.' located in the Baker Street Buildings, in Weston-Super-Mare, Somerset. Following the end of the First World War, Mr Oxley introduced solderless, wire-wrapped jewellery, creating wearable art using glass beads and plain wire wrapped designs. His family run firm, employed between 20-30 World War One veterans, who had been introduced to wirework as a form of occupational therapy. Apparently, you could walk into Mr Oxley's store and watch the artists at work at their benches. By the end of the 1920's and '30's it became so popular, that pieces found their way around the country into other department stores.

Sadly, as the generation of wire artists grew older and died, no new ones stepped in or were trained and Oxley's store - which had been taken over by Jim Llewellin in 1950, following Oxley's death - closed it's doors forever in the mid-1980's and wire art virtually disappeared from mainstream popularity in the U.K.

Jim and his wife Mavis Llewellyn emigrated to Canada, bringing wire wrapping with them, which flourished into a new wearable art in Canada, spreading into America, with contemporary artist jewellers combining gemstones, beads and found artifacts into their designs.

Therefore, let's all try and be part of the gradual resurgence of wire art jewellery in the U.K. bringing it back as an art form that we canbe proud of!

Below is my recent interview with Tracy, who provides excellent sound advice
about selling her jewellery on the
internet - enjoy drooling over herwork and please feel free to post your comments ...

WHENAND HOW DID YOU START MAKING JEWELLERY?

I started about 5 years ago, after seeing lots of handmade jewellery on e-Bay and thinking, "I could do that!". I bought the tools and some basic beads and findings and with the help from the internet, started to teach myself how to make earrings. I then started stringing bracelets and necklaces for a while, but about 2 year's ago, I discovered my true love was wirework! I was given a book 'Bead On AWire' by Sharilyn Miller and that was it ... I was hooked!

I love the freedom

working with wire allows.

.

.

.

.

.

HAVE YOU HAD ANY FORMAL TRAINING?

I did a short silver jewellery making course at night school a few year's ago which included learning to solder. I really enjoyed it but it's not practical for me to do at home. I do still have the twisted Sterling Silver bangle I made there though!

Everything else I've learned from books and magazines, experimenting and lots of practice!

WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR DESIGN INSPIRATION FROM?

I usually have lots of ideas floating around in my head and keep a notebook to do quick drawings of designs and ideas, otherwise I forget them! I love spirals and swirls which I use a lot in my designs and find inspiration in things like wrought iron gates!

I do get ideas from books and magazines but tend to adapt a certain aspect of a design into my own with a definite idea and finish with it looking completely different to how I imagined them! What I love about working with wire is that you learn the basics, then let your imagination take over.

Before that I sold on eBay for 4 years. Selling online isn't easy, especially selling jewellery as it's such a saturated market. You need to do more than just opening your shop and waiting for buyers to appear. Good, clear photos are very important, plus decent descriptions and clearly set out P&P costs and 'Terms & Conditions' for returning items. Pricing your items correctly is important too (and not always easy!). Packaging your sold jewellery attractively also helps to give a "look" to your pieces and shop. Business cards are a must to add a professional touch.

Let people know you are there by promoting. Take part in forums, start a facebook fanpage for your shop, link your shop RSS feeds to yoru facebook page, Twitter, post photos on places like Flickr (I've made a few sales this way), CraftGawker, jewellery magazine forum galleries, anyway you can get your stuff "out there"!

Starting a blog is also a good way to advertise. You can see my blog here:

http://cinnamonjewellery.blogspot.com/. There's all sorts of widgets you can add to your blog to link it to your shop. Follow other blogs and leave comments where appropriate - other people will often click on your link to check out your blog. Blog giveaways are also a good idea to get people looking. Promoting your shop can be a lot of work, but it's worth it if you want to succeed!

Sunday, 21 March 2010

Below is an image for design inspiration, using beautiful semi-precious stones from http://www.beadsdirect.co.uk/ ... the instructions for this project with matching bracelet and earrings will be featured later this year in 'MAKE JEWELLERY'MAGAZINE'. If you want to subscribe to the magazine, which I personally believe is the best UK publication for jewellery design inspiration ... go to their website: http://www.makejewellerymagazine.com/

T O O L S : I have been asked to recommend which tools are required to get started.The 3 basic pliers needed are: ROUND- (for coiling, making jump rings .. anything circular), FLAT- (for creating angular bends and generally holding wire) and CHAIN-NOSED PLIERS (same as Flat-Nosed pliers but with tapered ends, for small, delicate work). Therefore, you could just invest in either Flat- or Chain-Nosed until you can afford both.

You will also benefit from purchasing a steel stake and hammer so that you can work-harden, flatten and spread your wire, making it tough and functional. The flat stake can be purchased from http://www.cooksongold.com/ (Product Code: 999793) and even though any old hammer will do - as long as it has a flat, smooth, highly polished end, specialist jewellery hammers are obviously better and Cookson's once again has a range, from the most basic 'Jobbing' hammer (Product Code: 99989P) to a super-duper one, which is my favourite (Product Code 99989X).

Don't forget, once you've bought your basic tool kit ... it should last you a lifetime!!

THE WORLD'S BEST CUTTERS: Anyone who's had a little experience in making wirejewellery will know that cutters are an extremely important tool - especially when it comes to cutting jump rings off a coil. A cheap pair will squeeze the wire before it cuts and the ring will never be 'flush' closed. I can highly recommend TRONEX flush cutters, which are only available from one UK supplier as yet: http://www.madcowbeads.com/ They are not cheap, but will last a lifetime, as long as you don't use them to cut wires a higher gauge wire than 1mm. Put them on your birthday wishlist, if you want to create a professional finish to your pieces!

SHOWCASE PROJECT

LOOSE CHANGE CHARM BRACELET

This is a Charm Bracelet using up loose change, left-over holiday money, vintage coins, ... infact

this wire framing will suit any circular flat-backed item (like buttons and bottle-tops!).

It was featured recently in 'Make Jewellery' magazine (Issue 11, Page 43) and I can email the instructions to anyone who's interested in the wire framing.Just email: linda.jones@wirejewellery.co.uk with subject heading: LOOSE CHANGE.

R E C Y C L I N Gis definitely in, especially in these times of belt-tighteningglobal recession ... and I'm looking forward to telling you more about my new project book (coming out in July, but available for pre-order from 'amazon' in April). The new book: Making Beautiful Wire & Bead Jewellery' is filled with design inspiration and projects, some using bolts, ribbons, feathers, buttons, washers, pebbles, etc... keep a look out!

Here's a sneaky preview of my Vintage Button Necklace(3 diamante buttons with brown and cream pearls),which can be made with any 3 buttons of your choice(see the black coat button necklace variation with wireshapes glued to the front).

Thursday, 18 March 2010

At last my wirey cage is being rattled and I have been asked for some advice, the first question is all about purchasing W I R E and what type to buy. As it's such a commonly asked question, I wanted to share it with you:

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEENSOFT, HALF-HARD and HARD WIRE?

S O F T wire is obviously the easiest to manipulate and therefore good to use on all projects, such as threading beads and creating jewellery pieces that require many processes, as each manipulation will toughen or 'temper' the wire to a certain degree. To strengthen it when creating clasps and open-wirework shapes, you can hammer it on a steel block (to work-harden). To toughen up your jump-rings, just wiggle the cut ends backwards and forwards just past each other, so that when they sit together you have work-hardened them and created tension.

HALF-HARD is good for creating pieces that don't require much manipulation and can be used for creating your own jump-rings and this will ensure that your links are tough and functional so that they don't fall apart. It is also good for threading heavy or large beads, as well as creating simple clasps that need to be strong.

HARD, as the name suggests, is tough and not as easy to manipulate and I personally would not recommend it for creating jewellery!

Therefore, to summarise, I would personally recommend purchasingS O F T wire for ALL your projects. It will be kind to the hands and you can toughen or work-harden it by either: hammering, twisting, wiggling or burnishing it (stroking it with a smooth, steel tool).

TOGGLE CLASPS in particular. Of course these can be purchased from most bead suppliers and there is a wonderful range of shapes and styles to choose from... However, they often don't blend well with the rest of your piece, so it's best to create your own. This ensures your clasp becomes integrated and the design completely unified as a whole.

TOGGLE CLASPS are definitely the best fastener to create for a handmade bracelet and below are a couple of very simple designs you can create out of 0.8mm (20-gauge) wire: one is hammered and the other has spiralled ends. If you would like a project sheet on how to create these Toggle designs, please don't hesitate to email me at: linda.jones@wirejewellery.co.uk and I will forward a project sheet by email attachment.

PHOTOGRAPHING YOUR OWN JEWELLERY - "Say Cheese"!!

This was another recently raised question - advice on how to photograph your own jewellery?

I'm definitely not the best person to ask, as I don't even have a camera! I use my flat-bed scanner for most small pieces and manipulate the resolution and shading on the programme software. When it comes to larger, more bulky items, I can un-hinge the lid of my scanner and I place an adapted 'shoe' box over the scanner base which has a white interior lining and scan direct to my hard-drive. It's definitely not the perfect solution - but just for reference purposes, it is perfectly adequate!

When I have had to use a camera, my son has helped me out. He has created temporary 'tent' constructions out of white card, mounting his camera on a tripod. I asked him for his advice for this blog and these are his recommendations:

1. Always use a tripod for jewellery photography to prevent any hand wobble.

2. Use natural daylight or soft diffused light (put a cloth over a lamp) and don't use flash - as this will cause harsh, distracting shadows.

3. Create a 'light tent' (these can be purchased and look like minature igloos!) or you can construct a white carded cubicle around the piece or pieces you are 'shooting' to reduce glare and control shadows.

4. Place the jewellery on a white or clear acrylic platform. This can provide a soft reflection and the elevation will also help eliminate any large shadows below the jewellery.

If anyone can help with further advice on photography "do's and dont's", please email your experiences to linda.jones@wirejewellery.co.uk so that we can share them on the blog!

Tuesday, 16 March 2010

It's been a slow, restarted emergence ... but I'm not deterred and will continue with the 'blog' even though I have had very little feedback or contribution to the newsletter items.

As a jewellery designer, I was asked why I didn't initially name the guild: The WireJewellery Guild (instead of WireWorkers) - but I felt that would compartmentalise and narrow the sharing of ideas - but seeing as I seem to be the lone voice on this blog, it will be more specialised in wirejewellery, as it is my area of expertise. However, the skills in creating jewellery encompass all wire crafts, ranging to home decor, accessories, sculpture, card making, etc... and I will be happy to share project ideas for past pieces I have designed, such as garden windchime, table-light decoration, napkin ring, tree sculpture, ... not to mention, wire motifs for just about every greetings card occasions! Infact, the dragonfly image seen here, can be wired to cards, hair accessories, turned into a brooch, a necklace pendant, a cake decoration, a plant stick, suspended on a window mobile ... need I go on! If anyone is interested in the instructions, just email me at linda.jones@wirejewellery.co.uk and I will be happy to supply them.

I have also been asked about how to go about

SELLING YOUR OWN JEWELLERY,

so here are some tips that I can pass on:

The first thing to acknowledge is that creating handmade jewellery is NEVER going to turn you into a millionaire! Sadly, most handicrafts are never that profitable, however, I can guarantee that it will be a very satisfying personal challenge, definitely frustrating at times, hard work but, fun and pleasurable when you do turn your passion into a little money ... and you never know, with sheer determination, it could one day turn into a small home business! but don't give up the day job just yet!

WHERE TO START?

To test your 'market' why not book a table at a local craft fair, school fete or charity fundraising event and if you live in the country, try your local Farmer's Market... You should be able to find information on up-and-coming events in your local press and on-line. Alternatively, hosting a home sale jewellery 'party' is an excellent starting point.

WHAT TO CONSIDER?

1. Think of your target market ... this is dependent on where you are selling, i.e. school fete or home sale, etc... For instance, if you've taken a table at a school fete, remember to bring some cheaper items, as there will be families attending with their children wishing to spend their pocket money: therefore, items such as key-rings, 'phone charms, beaded hair accessories could be suitable, alongside the more expensive designer pieces.

2. DISPLAY: This is very important - as are all first visual impressions! Not only should you consider the table covering, but how you are going to set off your pieces to make them stand out. Uncluttered simplicity is key and if you are going to use table lights, remember to ask if there is an electricity point near to your table area. Also, don't forget to bring a mirror!

3. PACKAGING: Just as the display is visually representational of your work, the packaging should reflect the care and passion you put into your pieces. Organza draw-string bags, cardboard gift boxes and coloured tissue paper can add an air of elegance and detail to complete the sale. Also, do remember to have a sticker, flyer (computer print-out) or card with your contact details within the packaging, in case the customer wishes to return for more!

4. PRICING: This is always a tricky one, but you can roughly estimate a piece for sale should be priced around 3 times the cost of the raw materials. This incorporates your time, expertise, wear and tear of tools, heat & light costs, etc... and if you wish to add more profit onto that ... it's up to you! However, it is wise to mark and price all your pieces before a sale, as people are often wary of asking, in case the price is too high. So if they can see prices, they can instantly decide if it's in their spending budget.

5. CONTACT FEEDBACK: It is worth remembering to bring a pen and receipt book to your sale. This way you can keep a written copy of what has been sold. It's also worth making a note of the purchaser's email address, so that you can set up a client database for future sales events. If you're very new to selling, you could also have a 'Comment's Book' for people to (anonymously) comment on your work - constructive criticism is always helpful ... however, painful!

6. TOOLS: Bring some basic tools with you in case any piece needs altering. Round and flat nosed pliers can be useful for removing links to shorten a necklace. The fact that the purchaser can see you are able to customise a piece for them on the spot, could seal the sale! Ring sizers are also useful if you are selling rings and wish to take commissions. Obviously, major alterations and adjustments will have to be done at home and charged accordingly. Having a couple to tools visible can also impress the buyer, that in this age of mass production and commercialism your pieces are bespoke and you are a hand-craftsman.

7. MONEY: Bring a 'float' of coins and wear a money belt to keep your money safe and secure.

8. CARDS: Create some printed flyers (on your computer) or have a card printed ('Vistaprint' online is very reasonable) with your contact details and a picture of your work for people to take away. Even if you don't make any major sales, your contact details are a way of advertising.

9. HOME PARTIES: If you are thinking of organising a home jewellery party, all the points mentioned should be considered and to get you started, you can also speculate on having a 'hostess incentive'. For instance, the hostess holding the party could receive £10 credit and an additional 10% of gross sales as credit towards any jewellery purchases or commissions she wishes to make. This is just one method, however, you can choose a different 'payment' system that works for you.

In these times of financial struggle and belt-tightening, we are constantly looking at ways to keep control of costs, so here are 6 tips that might help:

1. Source out 'Special Offer' deals and 'Wholesale' beads online to avoid impulse purchases in bead stores. Set a limit on the amount you can afford and make sure you stick to this! ... and don't forget to build in the P&P to your total.

2. Ask all your friends and family if they have any broken or old jewellery, pieces that they would consider getting rid of after a clear out. For example: one lone earring can be reassembled into a focal pendant on a necklace, a broken brooch can be re-styled and revitalised by being suspended from an organza ribbon or plaited cord, chains can be cut up and made into tassels, beaded necklaces and bracelets can be taken apart and re-threaded on wire to create contemporary designs ...

3. If you have a charity shop, flea market or garage sale in your area, it might be worth a visit. You can often find second-hand pieces at knock-down prices that can be re-constructed into stunning new designs. It's also a good way of building up a comprehensive bead stash for charm bracelets, necklaces and hand-bag charm key-rings.

4. Plan your design well. If you are not competent at drawing, just lay your chosen beads on a mat or tray and consider the overall balance, size, shape and colour of the components. To keep costs low, you only need to use a few more expensive focal beads at the the front of a necklace - not all the way around - the sides and back can be ribbon, cord or chain.

6. Be inventive and improvise with everyday household objects around you. Discarded electrical cable has a wealth of copper wire within it, or try using florist or gardening wire. Look in your tool and sewing box for components: bolts, nuts and washers, not to mention buttons can be incorporated amongst your beaded designs and when you're next on a walk, look out for nice shaped pebbles and stones that can be wire-wrapped.

WHAT IS STEAMPUNK JEWELLERY?Steampunk is a style that has eminated from America and is now becoming very popular here in fashion as well as in jewellery. Basically, it's a mix of Victoriana style (hence the 'STEAM' part of the word, which is inspired by the Victorian Steam Age of industrialisation and spirit of adventure ...) and PUNK, refers to using recycled or rescued components to create a piece of wearable art. It's what we used to refer to as 'mixed media jewellery', using recycled or 'rescued' parts (like watch parts, old broken brooches, keys, vintage jewellery, etc...) put together like a collage, usually with a whimsical or nostalgic theme.

To summarise: "it's a cross between Victorian and industrial - a fake nostalgia - showing both things existing at one point. It gets its popularity form a growing resistance to corporate modernisation, the mass commercialism of virtually everything, coupled with the surge of nostalgia for a bygone era, for all things vintage and antique.

Have a look by googling, 'edm designs shop' and you should get a taste for the style.

THE WORLD'S BEST CUTTERSAnyone who's had a little experience in making wirejewellery, will know that cutters are an extremely important tool - especially when it comes to cutting jump rings off a coil. A cheap pair will squeeze the wire before it cuts and the ring will never be 'flush' closed. I can highly recommend TRONEX flush cutters, which are only available from one UK supplier as yet: http://www.madcowbeads.com/ They are not cheap, but will last a lifetime, as long as you don't use them to cut wires a higher gauge wire than 1mm. Put them on your birthday wishlist, if you want to create a professional finish to your pieces!

We will soon be featuring a project, and anyone who wishes to contribute their own - don't be shy, we would love to hear from you! Please take a look at the 'Spicy Hot' semi-precious stone cascade necklace, earrings and bracelet for inspiration. All the beads are from http://www.beadsdirect.co.uk/ semi-precious range, if you want a list of the stones used, just email linda.jones@wirejewellery.co.uk and I will be happy to give you the product codes.

Section 5NETWORKING... tells us about courses & workshops in your area ...

As you've probably all discovered, leaving silver wire or jewellery exposed to oxygen, will tarnish it quickly. To prevent it from becoming dull, try and store it in clear, plastic self-seal bags. You can also dip your pieces in 'Goddards' Silver Dip solution (available from all major supermarkets) - but do wear rubber gloves to avoid skin contact and just dunk in for a minute or two only (beads and all - except for pearls, as they will discolour!). I suspend my pieces from a bent wire, so that they can be pulled out and rinsed and then dried immediately.

Section 3

GRAPEVINE

... spread the word about new tools, bead bargains ... etc...

THE WORLD'S BEST CUTTERS

Anyone who's had a little experience in making wirejewellery, will know that cutters are an extremely important tool - especially when it comes to cutting jump rings off a coil. A cheap pair will squeeze the wire before it cuts and the ring will never be 'flush' closed. I can highly recommend TRONEX flush cutters, which are only available from one UK supplier as yet: http://www.madcowbeads.co.uk/ They are not cheap, but will last a lifetime, as long as you don't use them to cut wires a higher gauge wire than 1mm. Put them on your birthday wishlist, if you want to create a professional finish to your pieces!

As the guild is just surfacing from its foetal position, we are looking for new members and contributors to exchange ideas, inspire design and share in the wonderful craft of wire jewellery and wire art.

If you find your pieces have tarnished, just dip them in 'Goddard's' Silver Dip solution for a couple of minutes ... glass beads and all (although, don't dunk anything with pearls, it will ruin the outer coating!). Then rinse in water and dry ... and your pieces will look as good as new! Make sure you use rubber gloves (avoid any contact with your skin) and keep the solution away from children, as it is highly toxic. Just use a piece of wire to suspend the jewellery into the jar so that you can dunk it in and out without any fuss. The solution can be purchased from most large supermarket chains.

If you've been making wire jewellery for a while, you will know how important it is to own a good set of wire cutters ... especially, when you need to snip jump rings off a coil! I can highly recommend TRONEX flush wire cutters - they are not cheap, but will last a lifetime if you don't use them on thicker wires than 1mm. They are currently available from only 1 UK supplier: www.madcowbeads.com So if you can't afford them just yet, make sure they're on your birthday list!

BUTTONS ARE IN!

Buttons have always blended well with beads for all wire jewellery designs and it's well worth checking out www.jonesnottm.co.uk for unusual designs.

SHARE YOUR FAVOURITE SUPPLIERS

Internet online shopping can be very confusing with so many suppliers touting their wares so it's always good when they come personally recommended. I am sure all of you are already very familiar with the Scientific Wire company for wire supplies (see: www.wires.co.uk) - you just can't beat their range and prices. For unusual beads and components, check out: www.e-beads.co.uk and semi-precious stone ranges from: www.beadsdirect.co.uk