What to drink ... with chicken

A free-range chook is not just for roasting. It can be poached, braised, or star in a terrine - with just as many wine matches, writes Jane Faulkner.

August 18, 2012 — 3.00am

UP TO $25: JIM BARRY WATERVALE RIESLING 2012 $19

THIS is what I call a terrific Aussie riesling with a price to match. The 2012 vintage has produced some outstanding wines and this Clare Valley riesling, from Watervale, has all the hallmarks. Lovely floral fragrance, ginger spice and white pepper, a smidgen of pleasing phenolics with a core of bright fruit, and sweetness on the palate, although this is a dry riesling. Chalky-soft acidity and a long finish; partner to pistachio-flecked terrine. Will age for another 10 years.

UP TO $40: OAKRIDGE LOCAL VINEYARD SERIES BARKALA RIDGE CHARDONNAY 2011 $32

YARRA Valley winemaker Dave Bicknell is producing many different chardonnays, and the Barkala Ridge Vineyard is one of my favourites. It is complex without being overworked, savoury with stone fruit, citrus and flinty, moreish sulphide notes, and it is still tight but opens up and glides across the palate. Snappy acidity to finish. Perfect with a sumac-seasoned roast chicken. From Dan Murphy's.

MORE THAN $40: RUGGABELLUS TIMAEUS 2010 $45

A BAROSSA red with chicken? This exquisite medium-bodied red of mostly grenache with mataro, syrah and cinsault works a treat with marinated drumsticks or chicken wings (try soy sauce, garlic, ginger, palm sugar and chilli). Timaeus is refined, showing restraint with fresh fruit and fragrance from red liquorice and musk to cedary nuances. Fine acidity, even a tangy, stem-like note that adds to its beguiling nature. One of my favourite wines this year. Limited offerings from Prince Wine Store.

SPLURGE: VOYAGER ESTATE PROJECT 95 CHARDONNAY 2009 $55

IF THERE is one grape variety that always works with chicken, it's chardonnay. Project 95 is Voyager Estate's oak barrel-fermented wild yeast chardonnay made from mostly clone 95. It is an oh-so-subtle wine and textural thanks to those moreish wild ferment characters, some nuts and figs, and the oak superbly integrated. A wine of great restraint with sleek natural acidity and a long finish. Wonderful Margaret River chardonnay and just right with poached chook.