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Billed as a "neighborhood American bistro," this sweet if unspectacular eatery was opened by a mother-son team who saw a need for semi-chic dining on upper Amsterdam Avenue. Its straightforward burgundy-and-black décor and comforting menu are as simple as its moniker, and combined they attract a steady stream of young families, neighborhood professionals and Columbia students escaping their meal plans. Brunch features staples like unexpectedly creamy smoked salmon eggs Benedict. Lunch dishes remain unsurprising, with a house salmon burger constituting the healthiest choice. However, at night Bistro Ten 18 dims its lights, places candles on the tables, breaks out its 100-plus wine list and showcases more sophisticated entrées like the braised Berkshire pork shoulder. Although critics may carp that neither the cuisine nor atmosphere warrants a trip uptown, local denizens agree that Bistro Ten 18's unpretentious yet upscale offerings provide the up-and-coming area with a tasty culinary alternative to fast food and Chinese restaurants. — Raven Snook