Aluminium brazing is a popular method for repair all sorts of aluminium base metals. With many other products on the market aluminium brazing requires tighter process parameters than most other brazing processes because of the closeness of the melting point of the braze filler metal and the base metal. Not so, however, with our HTS-2000 second-generation brazing rod, which has a melting point 260oC less than aluminium.

When brazing aluminium, cleanliness is usually extremely important since oil, scale and heavy oxides from extrusion must be removed prior to brazing. In addition, it is usually impossible to remove such oxides because of aluminium's natural ability to oxidize upon exposure to air. The HTS-2000 aluminium brazing rods are much more lenient when it comes to contaminants. In fact, our brazing rods easily penetrate past impurities that lay below the metal's surface, which may be impossible to penetrate with competitors materials. In fact, unlike the first generation aluminium brazing rods, the HTS-2000 does not require steel or special cleaning brushes to prep the areas for brazing.

Commonly, filler metals for aluminium brazing are available in wire, paste, powder, clad sheet and foil and not all filler metals are readily available in all forms. Some of these forms listed many be very difficult if not impossible to find in small quantities domestically. With our industrial strength no-flux aluminium brazing rods, we solve this problem entirely. This is the only rod you will ever need for all of your aluminium brazing projects big and small.

When brazing aluminium with our products, the affected area actually becomes stronger than the surrounding areas. You will never see a crack or break in the same place twice. Besides our industrial-strength aluminium brazing rod, all you will need is a heat source (propane or mapp gas), a turbo tip, or oxy-acetylene, and a free moment. No welding machine or furnace is necessary.

Our aluminium brazing rods can be used to repair diesel engines, airplanes, trucks, tractors, motorcycles, aluminium boats, trailers, fuel tanks, ladders, awnings, gutters, aluminium rivets and brackets to name a few uses. In order to get a feel for other uses of HTS 2000 Aluminium Rods, please see our demonstration videos

If you need to repair cracks, holes, leaks, rivets, broken ears, threads or fabricate aluminium, cast aluminium, and cast iron quickly, easily, and stronger than new, our Aluminium brazing rods could be the answer you have been looking for. With our break-through technology brazing rods, anyone can use our HTS2000 aluminium repair rods. No need for expensive welding equipment or experience!

Will it work for your job? YES! This high-strength brazing rod allows you to repair or fabricate aluminium stronger than a Tig welding machine, without the machine. All you need to repair any metal stronger than new is a heat source (propane or mapp gas), a turbo tip, or oxy-acetylene, and our material

Imagine getting stronger, better results than welding, by using our high-strength brazing rods and just a torch�the kind of propane or mapp gas torch you probably already have or can easily pick up at your local hardware store.

Saves you time � Repairs brazing aluminium with our HTS-2000 or cast iron with our HTS-528 are fast and simple.

Saves you money � Cheaper than welding machines or buying new or used parts.Lets you do it yourself � Regardless of your experience anyone can easily learn how to braze aluminium.

Does the impossible! � Accomplishes many repairs even after a welder says it can't be done stronger than welding and even repairs oily or oxidized metals.

WHEN USING LOWER HEAT GAS TORCHES, ALWAYS HOLD THE FLAME OF THE TORCH AT 90 DEGREES TO THE METAL TO BE HEATED WITH THE TIP OF THE BLUE FLAME 3-4 CMS FROM THE METAL SURFACE. THIS WILL GIVE YOU MAXIMUM HEAT EFFICIENCY.

Step 1:
Clean the area to be worked with a file, grinder, or wire brush. Ideally a clean stainless steel wire brush but most brushes will work.

Step 2:
Heat the work surface (not the brazing rod) until the work surface is hot enough to melt the rod, just as you would if using a solder. DO NOT PUT THE ROD IN THE FLAME. You must bring the temperature of the base metal up to the melting point of the HTS�2000 Flux Less Brazing Rod. Open the pores of the work surface with heat for the rod to penetrate the surface.

Step 3:For threads and thin aluminium, tin the housing with the rod itself by scratching on the housing when the appropriate temperature is reached. For all other uses, use a tinning brush to tin the area with HTS�2000, when the appropriate temperature is reached. Then do your build up for excellent results. Finish the joint by stroking a small stainless steel screw driver blade along the molten rod.

Step 4:
When the repair is completed, always allow to cool naturally.

Propane works well on most weights up to 1/4 inch. Over that, use mapp gas or a more intense heat source.

Note: Remember that the thicker the material, the longer it takes to reach the proper temperature. On heavier work or to save time, you can use oxygen acetylene. Always use a Rosebud tip or a neutral flame with oxygen acetylene. Do not put the rod in the direct flame while brazing with HTS�2000 Flux less Brazing Rods.

The strongest brazing rod made for joining cast iron and steel, HTS-528 is thin flowing for close-fit joining and repairs on all cast iron, steel, copper, bronze, nickel, and brass. It will effectively join dissimilar metals. Master Welders rate its wetness on ferrous and non-ferrous metals as excellent, and while it is very hard, it is still fully machinable.
The perfect rod to use for high-heat applications up to 760�C , such as a cast iron manifold, or for high-stress areas, including joining cast iron ears or repairing cracks in blocks, or for body work like replacing sheet metal on your rusty floor of your car.

Tensile Strength: 102,000

Bonding Temperature: 760�C .

Hardness: 92 Brinell

Elongation: 30%

Flow: Excellent

Fuming: Low

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AWS SPEC: A 5.7

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Instructions for the 528-Brazing Rods

Melting the base metal is not necessary since the 528 rod has a built-in flux. Consequently, clearance should be around .003 for maximum tensile and shear strength. The 528 rod takes extreme heat, above 760�C to penetrate the pores of the metal so you will need oxygen and gas to produce this heat. HTS-528 can be used to braze cast iron, brass, nickel, copper, and more than 50 different kinds of steel, including stainless. Open the pours around the area to be repaired, drill, and grind out a U shape in the metal, so it is no longer a hairline crack.

We recommend first practicing with cast iron by grinding a slot 1 - 3mm wide into the metal. Use a brazing tip to bring the metal to 760�C . The metal will start to turn red at 315�C, but continue heating, test the rod on the metal 5-6 mm outside the bulk of the flame. The rod has a flux core that will melt much lower than the rod, so if the rod itself will not melt, have patience. When you are close to 760�C, it will look like you're going to burn a hole in the metal but do not worry. Once you see the rod itself is melting, scratch the rod all around the area to be repaired. The rod will melt and, with the help of the flux core, will fuse down into the metal.

When you pull the torch away, it will be cherry red for about 20 seconds. If you have followed the instructions explicitly and scratched the rod all around the area to be repaired thoroughly allowing the flux to mix with the melted rod you will have the strongest weld possible on that particular metal. You may then grind, shape, polish, and paint as desired.

The strongest brazing rod made for joining cast iron and steel, HTS-528 is thin flowing for close-fit joining and repairs on all cast iron, steel, copper, bronze, nickel, and brass. It also will effectively join dissimilar metals. Master Welders rate its wetness on ferrous and non-ferrous metals as excellent, and while it is very hard, it is still fully machinable.

The perfect rod to use for high-heat applications up to 760�C , such as a cast iron manifold, or for high-stress areas, including joining cast iron ears or repairing cracks in blocks, or for body work like replacing sheet metal on your rusty floor of your car.

Tensile Strength: 102,000

Bonding Temperature: 760�C .

Hardness: 92 Brinell

Elongation: 30%

Flow: Excellent

Fuming: Low

.

AWS SPEC: A 5.7

.

Instructions for the 528-Brazing Rods

Melting the base metal is not necessary since the 528 rod has a built-in flux. Consequently, clearance should be around .003 for maximum tensile and shear strength. The 528 rod takes extreme heat, above 760�C to penetrate the pores of the metal so you will need oxygen and gas to produce this heat. HTS-528 can be used to braze cast iron, brass, nickel, copper, and more than 50 different kinds of steel, including stainless. Open the pours around the area to be repaired, drill, and grind out a U shape in the metal, so it is no longer a hairline crack.

We recommend first practicing with cast iron by grinding a slot 1 - 3mm wide into the metal. Use a brazing tip to bring the metal to 760�C . The metal will start to turn red at 315�C, but continue heating, test the rod on the metal 5-6 mm outside the bulk of the flame. The rod has a flux core that will melt much lower than the rod, so if the rod itself will not melt, have patience. When you are close to 760�C, it will look like you're going to burn a hole in the metal but do not worry. Once you see the rod itself is melting, scratch the rod all around the area to be repaired. The rod will melt and, with the help of the flux core, will fuse down into the metal.

When you pull the torch away, it will be cherry red for about 20 seconds. If you have followed the instructions explicitly and scratched the rod all around the area to be repaired thoroughly allowing the flux to mix with the melted rod you will have the strongest weld possible on that particular metal. You may then grind, shape, polish, and paint as desired.