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Okay, updated it. The drive gear is now the other way up so the teeth don't have interference from the base layer. The idler is completely reshaped to allow more forgiving idler positioning and now has notches to facilitate attachment using zip ties (highly recommended and no need for springs). The body is thickened to hold hotter hot ends and the filament guide has had yet more reinforcement. Only 2 screws are needed to hold the motor in place.

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The standard STL is for an 18mm diameter PTFE or PEEK hot end insulator, held in place with 2x wood screws instead of glue to facilitate repairs. The body has been thickened near where the screws pass through to prevent embarrassing melt-outs. Cooling the insulator with a fan is still highly recommended.

I've beefed up the filament guide as the original seemed a bit delicate and I broke it too easily.

The idler has been remade with notches to allow attachment with zip ties. This is highly recommended as the original hinge holes frequently split, and it removes the need for springs.

See the picture of the opened extruder for details on how to string the rods and fasteners together. Other photos show how to use 2 woodscrews to hold an extruder, and how to assemble a Blowout Preventer plate (3mmx28mmx25mm aluminium, central M6 hole, 2x3mm holes on 22mm centres using 2x25mm M3 to fix to hose clamp).

Okay, updated it. The drive gear is now the other way up so the teeth don't have interference from the base layer. The idler is completely reshaped to allow more forgiving idler positioning and now has notches to facilitate attachment using zip ties (highly recommended and no need for springs). The body is thickened to hold hotter hot ends and the filament guide has had yet more reinforcement. Only 2 screws are needed to hold the motor in place.