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Drying technique

Hi,

I'm new to detailing. My second post here ever.

Just wanted to get learn some tricks of the trade. I've noticed that I'm getting water marks from not drying the car thoroughly after washing. Problem is, I can't seem to dry it fast enough.. any faster and it won't be thorough enough.

By the time I reach my last panel, its already half dried itself and leaving some water marks... BTW, I live in a tropical climate hence things do dry fast here!

Well I'm no expert in the drying area, but are you able to dry in a shaded area? That would probably help if you aren't. I wonder if its your water... Sometimes when I'm drying my truck, the opposite side will begin to dry, but no water spots are left usually. If there are any, they wipe away with a spray wax.

Always searching for the best.... Keep it country!---------
SkiDoo Snowmobiles!

Re: Drying technique

The main point you have to take from that video is using the sheeting method at the end of your rinse cycle. This will help reduce the amount of water beads on your paint's surface leaving you with less water to dry. That might not fully help you if it's really hot in Malaysia. I'm from Phoenix and I battle the same problem during 120F (50C) degree days. I get occasional water spotting at the last panels I'm drying during that time. However, I just hit the area with Ultimate Quik Detailer or a damp microfiber towel and the water spots go away. I've never encountered etched water spots from drying the car because I don't let that water spot stay there too long.

I know usually on hot days the car would dry faster then I can put the towel on it. I also use a California water blade on them to. That's a fast way to dry the vehicles off to. When I use that I also carry a towel with me to get the areas I can't get with the blade.

Re: Drying technique

What are you using to dry with? The waffle weave microfiber towels work best for me. If it's hot out, after sheeting the water....I do a fast all around for the big spots the over again for the remaining water. These waffle weaves really soak up the water and leave no trails or drips behind.

Re: Drying technique

Two years after the last post and I also say "leaf blower" In fact, I can also say "water filter", "flood as best you can", and then "leaf blower".

I used to spend a LOT of time carefully wiping dry, and that is just no way to live, especially when it's hot and humid out (here in the Southeast) and you can't even get the surfaces of a black car (or your body) dry for hours! Since I gave up the ghost and got a leaf blower, I've had no problem with water spots on the paint, and I've gained back so much of my time and sanity.

With the water filter I've raved about in other threads, the housing has since blown out during an ice storm this past Winter (doh!), so I've been comparing not using it. I can't really tell the difference on the paint because of immediate blow drying, although if I let the water sit anywhere else without blowing dry, water spots form almost as bad as before. I also got a new industrial-quality garden hose, and that may have had at least something to do with it. I'm replacing the blown filter housing (and resuming with a 2 micron carbon water filter), because there are many places where the blower is not blowing dry that are still wet after a rinse or wash, leaving behind hard deposits.

Regarding flooding, I was skeptical (because of having to turn off the water, remove a nozzle, etc) until I also got a new water nozzle which has a "shower" setting. This puts out a soft waterfall that doesn't splatter, so it gets pretty close to "flooding" as the others describe here in the forum. It at least this helps to reduce blower time a bit.