I got this 3P a few months back and already the buttons for patches 9-16 are going out. They work sometimes for a few seconds, but I need to open her up and clean 'em I guess. I have virtually zero experience in these matters. And I've tried to get into the 3P before to no avail. Anyone have experience that can lend me some advice? Thanks.

no cleaning to these. They are sealed tactile switches. You'll have to replace them (all). I've got a JX3 on the shelf. Will check to see if I can find a replacement part# from Mouser.A warning: Much dis-assembly and careful soldering is needed. Maybe need a tech.

I posted a question a week or two ago asking if anyone knew a replacement for these switches, but no one responded. I've taken apart my JX3P and pulled out a couple switches and they definitely look different than any others I've seen before. (they aren't standard tactile switches like on a Juno 106) They are sealed, so there's not really a good chance of opening and reconditioning them (at least as far as I can tell). One thing I did notice… I repeatedly pressed one switch I took out and it seemed to work better when I reinstalled it. I'd love to replace all of the switches on mine, but my fear is that this part is too unique and no longer made. I'd love to be proven wrong though. One option that you could pursue (I've done this) is to purchase the MIDI upgrade that is available on the web… when you install that, then you can issue program changes via MIDI and it doesn't matter that the button switches don't work. That's not ideal of course, but now I have full control of my 3P.

Is it not conceivable that you could desolder them and then soak them in isopropanol for a few days?

FWIW, I've repaired sealed switches before in this manner (from a DW8000). After letting them soak for a while, I kept them submersed and then repeatedly clicked them dozens of times, watching until the tiny air bubbles weren't getting released any more, letting me know their innards were thoroughly filled with the isopropanol. After letting them soak for about a day, and then drying them out (including fervently clicking them a bunch to prompt the release of any of the iso in them), I soldered them back in and they worked fine.

rhino wrote:Just got an Email from Technology transplants (chipsfor brains)they have limited quantity of NEW FACTORY NOS switches for sale at $3.50 each.NOTE: These are the switches ONLY --- NOT the chrome caps OR white spacers---These will get you gonig if cleaning won't cure some dead oneshttp://www.technology.transplant@gmail.com

Ry-Fi wrote:I'm not familiar with these switches in particular, but...

Is it not conceivable that you could desolder them and then soak them in isopropanol for a few days?

FWIW, I've repaired sealed switches before in this manner (from a DW8000). After letting them soak for a while, I kept them submersed and then repeatedly clicked them dozens of times, watching until the tiny air bubbles weren't getting released any more, letting me know their innards were thoroughly filled with the isopropanol. After letting them soak for about a day, and then drying them out (including fervently clicking them a bunch to prompt the release of any of the iso in them), I soldered them back in and they worked fine.

Interesting, why does this work? Is it a corrosion issue typically when tactile switches fail? I always assumed it was some kind of mechanical failure. I have an AX60 with some failing buttons...