Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

E39 (1997 - 2003) The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

F.Y.I. knock sensors are basically microphones listening to your motor.If not properly torqued to specifications it may be over sensitive or send erroneous signals.I would check the connectors and follow it all the way to the DME.Simple continuity test from end to end eliminates the thought of any broken wires.Since you stated that they were replaced and still persists,the next step is to check your harness and the DME.I have seen cases where the thermostat (map cooling) connector craps out and can carry coolant that seeps through the wire insulation all the way to the DME drowning it with coolant.

F.Y.I. knock sensors are basically microphones listening to your motor.If not properly torqued to specifications it may be over sensitive or send erroneous signals.I would check the connectors and follow it all the way to the DME.Simple continuity test from end to end eliminates the thought of any broken wires.Since you stated that they were replaced and still persists,the next step is to check your harness and the DME.I have seen cases where the thermostat (map cooling) connector craps out and can carry coolant that seeps through the wire insulation all the way to the DME drowning it with coolant.

Will def check that out coolant was everywhere, before I did the cooling system, and even after theres the smell of it. I'm guessing the process to check isn't very DIY ?

Will def check that out coolant was everywhere, before I did the cooling system, and even after theres the smell of it. I'm guessing the process to check isn't very DIY ?

Last 7 digits of the VIN? Ill look up functional description and pin assignments and ill inform/advise you.I need to know what particular DME system (M62/M62TU) production date may also be useful.M62TU uses a pigtailed knock sensors (2 sensors/1 connector) 1 on each side.Hoping you have a multi meter or your "mechanic" has some kind of scope you can determine the root cause.Have you physically looked at the DME connector(s)? Recheck the connector by unplugging it and looking at the pins making sure none are bent/misaligned/or corroded.I believe #4 is the drivers side rear (closest to firewall).F.Y.I. Bank 1 is passenger side (always the one with chain tensioner) cylinder 1 or 5 is closest to front of car.I will wait for the info and get back to you.

F.Y.I. knock sensors are basically microphones listening to your motor.If not properly torqued to specifications it may be over sensitive or send erroneous signals.I would check the connectors and follow it all the way to the DME.Simple continuity test from end to end eliminates the thought of any broken wires.Since you stated that they were replaced and still persists,the next step is to check your harness and the DME.I have seen cases where the thermostat (map cooling) connector craps out and can carry coolant that seeps through the wire insulation all the way to the DME drowning it with coolant.

BMW TECH!!! I have a question for you!!! Im getting engine "pinging" or you guys would call it "detonation" or "pre-ignition" or whatever the correct term is.
NOW, in the past 2 weeks the following have been replaced by the dealer under warranty in order to remedy this: MAF, VANOS, Knock Sensors, Air Intake Temp sensor, fuel system clean (seafoam) Nothing, i mean NOTHING has deleted the pinging.
And finally my question is.... Would the OXYGEN SENSORS be at fault? EVEN THOUGH there's no rough idling; no poor gas mileage; no codes.
The car has 90,000 on the clock. Could these "tired" O2 sensors be causing my pinging/detonation/pre-ignition?
Should i have them replaced???
Thank you in advance for your expert advice!

There are 4 knock sensors. They are located in the V of the motor on both banks. Replacing them involves removing the intake manifold. If you need to replace the knock sensors on bank 2 (driver side head) you must drain the coolant, disconnect the water manifold on the back of the motor to remove the 2 long coolant pipes that run between the heads below the intake manifold. The bolts on the knock sensors will not clear these pipes.

If you are doing the knock sensors, you might was well replace your valley pan gasket, water manifold gaskets, o-rings, intake manifold gaskets and your CCV. The parts for all of that will run you a decent sum of money.... Then about 6 or so hours of labor on top of that.

There are 4 knock sensors. They are located in the V of the motor on both banks. Replacing them involves removing the intake manifold. If you need to replace the knock sensors on bank 2 (driver side head) you must drain the coolant, disconnect the water manifold on the back of the motor to remove the 2 long coolant pipes that run between the heads below the intake manifold. The bolts on the knock sensors will not clear these pipes.

If you are doing the knock sensors, you might was well replace your valley pan gasket, water manifold gaskets, o-rings, intake manifold gaskets and your CCV. The parts for all of that will run you a decent sum of money.... Then about 6 or so hours of labor on top of that.

1228 KnockSensor 4 This code is set when KnockSensor #4 has sent multiple signals or a break or short has occurred in the sensor or its wiring. Check the KnockSensor and its wiring for defects. Check the grade of fuel being used (RON>91). Increase octane if necessary.

1228 KnockSensor 4 This code is set when KnockSensor #4 has sent multiple signals or a break or short has occurred in the sensor or its wiring. Check the KnockSensor and its wiring for defects. Check the grade of fuel being used (RON>91). Increase octane if necessary.

I'm pretty sure it wasn't the guy doing the work has built a couple bmw race cars, and did all the other work performed flawlessly. I run 93 always I might try to find somewhere that has 100 octane or run an octane booster.

I am confused.
If the shop did all the work, they should be the one chasing the Knocksensor code # 4 for you.
How long ago did they do the work?

You might want to post a message on www.bimmerboard.com and ask for "Jim Cash"...he is the guru overthere.

It was on prior to the install of the stuff, so it's not really their problem they spent about 2 hours of uncharged time to figure out what was wrong, they said I might need a new ecu, but I doubt that.

Anything vibrating in the same frequency of spectrum that a knocksensor is designed can trigger the knocksensor.

Knock sensors picked up a binding water pump and tried to adjust the engine accordingly. Made the entire car rock at idle! Let's just say anyone who rode in the car at that time was less than impressed with the crown jewel of the BMW line-up! The defecytive WP can barely be turned by hand.
And in typical fashion that incident was followed shortly with a failed radiator!

Anything vibrating in the same frequency of spectrum that a knocksensor is designed can trigger the knocksensor.

Knock sensors picked up a binding water pump and tried to adjust the engine accordingly. Made the entire car rock at idle! Let's just say anyone who rode in the car at that time was less than impressed with the crown jewel of the BMW line-up! The defecytive WP can barely be turned by hand.
And in typical fashion that incident was followed shortly with a failed radiator!

What is your year and mileage?
WP original???

99 109,000, waterpump was replaced 500 miles ago. I think it might try and find a stock intake because I deleted the stock intake muffler, and put a plug in so that's a possibility, and I might try that crc maf cleaner. I appreciate all the help cn90 this is what the forums are about . Anymore ideas?

I used to have the same problem in my (now sold) 1996 VW Passat, the knocksensor (also made by BOSCH) was replaced 4 times by the dealer and still the same problem. A known issue in the 96 Passat. The engine otherwise was running fine.
Perhaps they designed the knocksensor a bit on the sensitive side, so any little vibration knocking set it off???

Sometimes it is very difficult, if not impossible, to find the root cause.
As long as the engine runs fine, there is no urgency to solve it right away but you have time to play detective work for the next few weeks and months.

Your other option is swap sensor between let's say #3 and #4, so now if the engine code turns into knocksensor #3 code then you know the wiring for #4 is OK, but rather the sensor is defective.

There are 2 strings of 2 sensors under the intake mainifold, so yes a total of 4. The cover, fuel injectors and rails and intake have to come out to get to them. They bolt down in the valley. The drivers side is cylinder 1-4 and the passenger side is 5-8.

Another thought: sp plugs, did you use the 4-prong??? Try OEM NGK.

This kind of detective work requires alot of patience and persistence!!!!!!

Back in the old days, when cars ran on carburator, we never have to worry about this crap...haha!

I used to have the same problem in my (now sold) 1996 VW Passat, the knocksensor (also made by BOSCH) was replaced 4 times by the dealer and still the same problem. A known issue in the 96 Passat. The engine otherwise was running fine.
Perhaps they designed the knocksensor a bit on the sensitive side, so any little vibration knocking set it off???

Sometimes it is very difficult, if not impossible, to find the root cause.
As long as the engine runs fine, there is no urgency to solve it right away but you have time to play detective work for the next few weeks and months.

This kind of detective work requires alot of patience and persistence!!!!!!

Back in the old days, when cars ran on carburator, we never have to worry about this crap...haha!

I think I might take the cone filter out and put the stock one back in again and see what that does.