After three months of renovations, the Sydney stalwart is ready to open its doors. Has Quay hit the reset button on fine-dining or simply tweaked a winning formula?

Fun dishes. No tablecloths. Humble service. Is Quay loosening up after 30 years at the forefront of Australian fine-dining? The landmark Sydney restaurant reopens this Thursday after a $4 million facelift that took three months and touched everything from the kitchen and furniture right down to the napkins.