Lets leave the reciever aside the main sponsor of this forum sells it. Poor Clark is at a bar getting
drunk at the moment dont think he needs anymore of us discussing this....

In Riccione I had a completly different problem (cable came of the transmitter battery). I was lucky
and the bike had no damage whatsoever eventhough it went into the fence end of straight
at full power... whoever was in Lostallo and saw how a Lehner(let loose) can propell a bike
knows what speed it might have been there in Riccione.

Back to the facts. Clark told me what happened plus the picture.......brings me to the following conclusion:
The Lipo (equals 300g) destroyed 22,5 sqmm of carbon. Thats over 500G of Force
Considering the Fork, the Headstock assembly and the Crashback plate "cushioning" their share
of the final impact..... I guess the bike went headon to a instant stop at least at 20m/s (72kph).

I actually have had good luck with the low end receivers. With that said, there are definitely combos I would not use them with. They seem to be very unpredictable during brownouts and sometimes fail to properly go into a fail-safe mode. From first hand, coupling an frsky or corona with a savox servo (high current draw) and a mamba max pro (weak bec) is a big no-no. Even my futaba receivers have problems with that combo without additional capacitors. I've relegated the low end receivers to my really small stuff (spare 1/8 bikes, 1/18 cars) were their size comes in handy, the servo current draw is less, and there us less at stake during a runaway. They seem to do very well there.

This might be a bit OFF Topic.. (but its my thread )
On the picture you see what has been driving me crazy for the past weeks:
FOAM Tires for the indoor Race in Friedrichshafen. I made 20 sets
and I was close to suicide. First the damn donuts wouldn┤t glue to
the Aluminium Rims. Then I had trouble to find a reliable Foam to Foam glue.
And of course I didnt make them the straightforward way..... now the
sideboard rings glue half to Foam and half to Aluminum, one contact area
two different glues ... why do I always get into such things?
Luckally a friend did all the grinding to contour the foam.

..... now the
sideboard rings glue half to Foam and half to Aluminum, one contact area
two different glues ...

Does this mean you also tried different compounds for the different parts of the tires, like the 1:1 streetmachines (you know, mileage in the middle, performance on the sides)?
Now a comment, that leads to a question, from this less experienced biker:
It seems to me, there's less rubber at the part of the tire that wears the most because the rim has a sharp corner just there. This suggests you have to use harder compounds than optimum grip wants, to keep tires from disintegrating under pressure. Then there is a lot of rubber depth on the center of the tire, where it hardly wears at all but can be distorted under power and lose integrity. This also suggests you have to use a harder compound than optimum performance calls for.

Will the tire stay in one piece for more than one stint, as it surely moves around a lot and risks to brake at the thinnest part that, on top of it, has an aluminium "knife" protruding from the inside?

Would a differently shaped rim leave room for softer compound and better performance with the same durability?

I am sure you have tried all this and gathered experience before the "suicide" project to make 20 sets but I'm interested how you came to the decision, "This is how it's going to be. Let's make 20 of 'em"

Does this mean you also tried different compounds for the different parts of the tires, like the 1:1 streetmachines (you know, mileage in the middle, performance on the sides)?
Now a comment, that leads to a question, from this less experienced biker:
It seems to me, there's less rubber at the part of the tire that wears the most because the rim has a sharp corner just there. This suggests you have to use harder compounds than optimum grip wants, to keep tires from disintegrating under pressure. Then there is a lot of rubber depth on the center of the tire, where it hardly wears at all but can be distorted under power and lose integrity. This also suggests you have to use a harder compound than optimum performance calls for.

Will the tire stay in one piece for more than one stint, as it surely moves around a lot and risks to brake at the thinnest part that, on top of it, has an aluminium "knife" protruding from the inside?

Would a differently shaped rim leave room for softer compound and better performance with the same durability?

I am sure you have tried all this and gathered experience before the "suicide" project to make 20 sets but I'm interested how you came to the decision, "This is how it's going to be. Let's make 20 of 'em"

These are only for one single indoor race we always do in Friedrichshafen beginning of
November.. The track in only there at the toyfair. So there is no chance to do any testing during the year.
Of course I thought about mixing the rubber but I binned it because I thought it to be too risky.
I used the same foam rubber we have been using the past years. If you are careful and dont crash into
the wood sideboards a set keeps for a whole weekend. We only wear the diameter by about 2-4mm.
There is so much grip the tires do NOT slide at all so wear is really low on that track.
The only thing I had in mind designing this wheelset was weight and dimensions.
They might be perfect or rubbish, no idea. I will see on Friday.

A video of me and Marc Lutz having some fun.
He is the blue SB5 I am following in the Red/White JABBER.
Unluckally I hit a bike at 1:40 and completly ruined my front end.
At 4:36 my bike then broke apart.