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Oh,,, and I'm still loving the R40 remote you recommended to me years ago. Thanks!

Yay, it's still the best remote i've ever used. But the OLED screen on mine has gotten very dim over the past ~3 years and now i can barely see it so i recently found one place that still has some new ones in stock and grabbed one for the future. A friend also has a 2-year-old R40 and his screen has dimmed quite a bit (but not as badly as mine).

The pro-version is the MX-780, and i just came across a couple of Ebay auctions where a guy is selling two of them that he says have dim screens.

Yay, it's still the best remote i've ever used. But the OLED screen on mine has gotten very dim over the past ~3 years and now i can barely see it so i recently found one place that still has some new ones in stock and grabbed one for the future. A friend also has a 2-year-old R40 and his screen has dimmed quite a bit (but not as badly as mine).

The pro-version is the MX-780, and i just came across a couple of Ebay auctions where a guy is selling two of them that he says have dim screens.

__________________

That's strange as my screen still works as good as it did new. I keep mine at 40% brightness and it's used quite a bit with all my audio/video gear. I'm in no hurry to replace it myself, unless I develop at same issue (knock on wood).

Hello everybody!
I've noticed that my 1 year old ST60 is starting to encounter some strange problems.

As far as i know it only happens on reds. It doesn't matter if the whole screen is in that color or only a smart part of it i.e youtubes red video seeker/scroller. Left and right sides fill with clouds of... dead/black pixel noise. I've attached an image so that it would be easier to understand. Sometimes it's hardly noticeable, but most of the time it takes up almost the entire sides.

I'm using true cinema viewing mode. When changing to the other modes I've noticed that the brighter the screen the less noise I'm getting.

Is this not a problem? Is this fixable? Or am I stuck with a defective model and every time the screen turns reddish my screen is going to be plagued by dead pixel clouds?

Hello everybody!
I've noticed that my 1 year old ST60 is starting to encounter some strange problems.

As far as i know it only happens on reds. It doesn't matter if the whole screen is in that color or only a smart part of it i.e youtubes red video seeker/scroller. Left and right sides fill with clouds of... dead/black pixel noise. I've attached an image so that it would be easier to understand. Sometimes it's hardly noticeable, but most of the time it takes up almost the entire sides.

I'm using true cinema viewing mode. When changing to the other modes I've noticed that the brighter the screen the less noise I'm getting.

Is this not a problem? Is this fixable? Or am I stuck with a defective model and every time the screen turns reddish my screen is going to be plagued by dead pixel clouds?

i.imgur. com/ZK5qfa5.jpg

cant post links yet, so remove the space before com

It most certainly is a problem, but what kind of problem has to be determined. I doubt it's the panel. If it's only a board it can be fixed.
Warranty?

Thanks for the answer!
Yeah, I still have 1 year of warranty left. The main problem is transporting the TV heh

Just remember not to lay the plasma horizontally flat during transport.The plasma need to be preferably upright or no less than a 45% angle which was how I had to transport my ST60 home for 125 miles in my Dodge Magnum. Also helps to keep the box & styrofoam which is in my attic. You just never know,,,

So I figure I'll ask here instead of in the projector forum since I'd have to make a new topic. For those of you who also own a projector, what do you think is a model that would offer the same PQ as the ST60? I bought a W1070 and while I really enjoy it, I definitely enjoy going back to my ST60 for cable T.V and the odd movie. Granted, I doubt I'll find a projector with the PQ of an ST60 under 2500.

Lethean: I have DLP projectors and still own them after multiple bulb replacements. And am waiting for the next big thing.

Though, I do not think there are projectors just yet, that can get the contrast (and brightness) to match any Plasma display. Until they perfect on/off sources such as LEDs or Lasers or other. Even then I think because of the distance the light sprays out it would be difficult to match an all sealed display. The closest one I feel would be the JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35.

I have a 60" ST60 that I did 100 hours of D-Nice slides preparation on and then calibrated to his settings after that. (got it in 2013)

Ever since I've had it, I have had issues with image retention (NOT burn in) where mostly when I go from the Netflix app to actually watching the show, I can see the retention of the netflix app screens a bit still for a minute then it goes away. Does this happen on all ST60's? It was my first plasma and I knew they had IR, but never really knew if IR happening THIS fast was normal or not.

Some people have almost no retention, some have it to extremes. Mine does has it pretty bad. As far as retention is concerned, this the worst set I've ever owned. As far as image quality, it's the best, that's why I still own it. I guess it just runs hot from the factory. Mine was one of the first off the line.

Forgive me if this has already been asked: Does the set's hour counter include time when the TV is powered on, but the "Screen Display" option is set to "Off"?

I do this a lot when playing music through my receiver. I have an external hdd connected to my Oppo, which then connects to my receiver. I need the TV turned on initially to see what I'm doing on the Oppo (browsing through the hdd for the music files I want to play), then I go into the Picture/Screen Settings menu to turn the display off. Might have the set like this for at least 4 -5 hours on the weekends some time.

Just wondering if, over the years, that's adding up to tons of hours on the set! Right now, according to the service menu, the set is at 2,618:40 run time. How does that compare to other people?

I had the set professionally calibrated by Jeff Meier of Accucal back in late 2013, and am hoping to be able to sell it for a decent amount when it's time to upgrade.

I have a 60" ST60 that I did 100 hours of D-Nice slides preparation on and then calibrated to his settings after that. (got it in 2013)

Ever since I've had it, I have had issues with image retention (NOT burn in) where mostly when I go from the Netflix app to actually watching the show, I can see the retention of the netflix app screens a bit still for a minute then it goes away. Does this happen on all ST60's? It was my first plasma and I knew they had IR, but never really knew if IR happening THIS fast was normal or not.

Yep, mine can get IR from a bright static logo within seconds. Logos such as those of Fox News, ESPN, CNN are the most common culprits. Fortunately, what IR I've experienced so far has always gone away over time.

Yep, mine can get IR from a bright static logo within seconds. Logos such as those of Fox News, ESPN, CNN are the most common culprits. Fortunately, what IR I've experienced so far has always gone away over time.

Good to hear that this is normal. It never has bothered me but I'm selling the set now so wanted to make sure it wasn't defective!

Some people have almost no retention, some have it to extremes. Mine does has it pretty bad. As far as retention is concerned, this the worst set I've ever owned. As far as image quality, it's the best, that's why I still own it. I guess it just runs hot from the factory. Mine was one of the first off the line.

Sorry to read that. My experiences with my 60ST60 have been just the opposite. Hopefully it stays that way because I'd like to keep using it as a main viewer for a at least a few more years while the new video tech shakes out. Afterwards, I'll probably move it to the bedroom, or some other place in the home. Mine has a build date of October 2013, and I purchased it from Amazon Prime in late December 2013.

I have a 60" ST60 that I did 100 hours of D-Nice slides preparation on and then calibrated to his settings after that. (got it in 2013)

Ever since I've had it, I have had issues with image retention (NOT burn in) where mostly when I go from the Netflix app to actually watching the show, I can see the retention of the netflix app screens a bit still for a minute then it goes away. Does this happen on all ST60's? It was my first plasma and I knew they had IR, but never really knew if IR happening THIS fast was normal or not.

I get IR pretty quick when i first turn on the tv but it goes away within a min or so. It doesn't really bother me and the picture quality is really that great so I'm ok with the quick IR. I'm using cadett's setting since I've own it, 2yrs and counting.

Sorry to read that. My experiences with my 60ST60 have been just the opposite. Hopefully it stays that way because I'd like to keep using it as a main viewer for a at least a few more years while the new video tech shakes out. Afterwards, I'll probably move it to the bedroom, or some other place in the home. Mine has a build date of October 2013, and I purchased it from Amazon Prime in late December 2013.

When I first got the set, I went through the break-in (ran slides), spent hours calibrating to industry standards, & then when watched ESPN for a couple hours; that's when I noticed the IR. We game pretty heavy on the tv, so IR has became just an accepted downfall of the tv. However, we sit about 8 feet back & the only time you really pick up on it is during white screens or kids cartoons. Oh well, I'm looking forward to new technologies.

Yep, mine can get IR from a bright static logo within seconds. Logos such as those of Fox News, ESPN, CNN are the most common culprits. Fortunately, what IR I've experienced so far has always gone away over time.

Be sure and have the pixel orbiter turned on. And do the screen wash when you see IR.

Many phones (at least many Samsung models) have cables that enable you to hook up the phone to display the video and sound from phone to TV screen. These are called MHL/HDMI cables. Cost is about $10.
You plug one end into the micro usb port on phone and other end into the std. HDMI port on TV. HDMI port needs to accept the MHL protocol.

my P50ST60 had come sluggish, just turning on took like 5-10 seconds with cards authentication, apps were slow,
changing channels was slow etc. unplugging it completely for a few minutes solved this and it turns on in seconds.
i know this should be done regularly with electronic devices but anyway.