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CFU2046ARW Maytag Freezer - Instructions

All installation instructions for CFU2046ARW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the freezer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!

Lights inside refrigerator not working

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

Frozen items on top of freezer not quite frozen, bottom of freezer ok. Freezer alarm sounding.

Took out the 2 screws that held the old handle in place. I then lined up the holes on the new handle and put the same screws back in being careful to put the shorter one in the bottom hole. When I had tightened the screws I put on the face plate to cover the screw heads and now my frezzer looks like new again!!!!!

Door stopped sealing in lower section of the door

Remove lower door hinge only, and door pops out. Then lay door on floor and remove the screws fastening the inner freezer tray & gasket to the door; this is where the cordless drill w/nut driver attachment is handy as there are 30+ screws to remove and an open freezer with all your food gaining temperature. At this point drop the new gasket in the dryer on low heat for 5-10 mins to soften it, regardless of it's condition. Have someone clean the sealing area on the freezer and where you have removed the old gasket on the door while you fit the new gasket in. Renew all rusted screws and smear a little grease on hinge for future protection since the door is off. Remount door and check for leaks, the door should close and seal on it's own WITHOUT pushing. This is where I realised the importance of warming the gasket, I got lucky by passing a blow dryer along the leaking areas with the door closed.Point: When buying a new freezer look for compression of the gasket which is an indicator of a warped door. My freezer is only 5yrs old and I shouldn't be changing the gasket so soon!

Fault in defrost circuit caused ice buid-up, decreased air flow, and elevated temp. led to a thaw.

After observing defrost timer go into (and out of), defrost cycle, I checked continuity of heating element. Since heater coil was intact (79 Ohms of resistance), I figured the defrost thermostat (aka bi-metal therm.), had to be at fault. The new part ($17.00), proved my suspicions correct. As I sought to determine if everything worked, I had to wait for the temp. to drop below the defrost therm. set point before I would see the heater coil get hot.To avoid the costly failure in future, I bought a Chaney wireless therometer with two remote sensors. Sensors require lithium batteries. $30.00 for both are a cheap insurance system.

Using a 3/8" wrench I took the top hinge off of the door. I had a friend around so I put him to work but the project could be done alone. We set the door on a countertop and began removing the old gasket with the nut driver on a cordless drill/screwgun. We eventually decided it was worth the extra effort to set the door on sawhorses in the garage (where the freezer is located).

I had stored the new gasket in the garage before installation and wished I had brought it inside to warm it up first. I remembered reading posts about using a hair dryer to soften the gasket but forgot about the post about putting the gasket in the clothes dryer for a few minutes. Stretching the new gasket around the door while it was cold was tricky in some spots but doable. One or two of the the corners of the new gasket began to pull apart but not enough to compromise the seal - although for the price of the gasket, I would have rather this not happened. I wish I would have used the clothes dryer first. Instead, we simply threw in a few screws in places and stretched the gasket around the corners. This was one time I was especially glad to have another person around.

After negotiating the corners and replacing all of the screws, we quickly placed the door back on the bottom hinge and put the top hinge back on. It was again nice to have a friend help square up the door before tightening the top hinge. We used a hair dryer to soften the gasket and a lot of hand work to mold the gasket and close the gap beyween the door and the freezer. Again, I think the clothes dryer would have saved time here as well. The gasket was quite compressed and needed a lot of work to help it "open up" and make a good seal.

Door gasket leak

Followed other instructions posted. Put gasket in dryer for a few minutes. My son held gasket back while I removed/reinstalled screws. It would have been much more difficult if I had attempted to do it by my self

Ice was building up in freezer

My seal around the freezer door was in need of changing. Placed the new seal in the dryer for about 10min while I removed all the screws from around the door. When I got to the bottom of the door the screws were rusty. Removed the old seal. Have back up screws on hand incase this happens. I cleaned the area at the bottom of the door that had become rusty. Then draped the new seal over the top of the door and started screwing the new one to the door. It was done! Pretty quick and easy.

The Freezer defrosted and everything on the top and the bottom spoiled

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.