Note: Japan is the last country on my travel schedule for 2007, following Jakarta, Indonesia; Vancouver, Canada; and Seattle, Washington. I visited these four cities/countries all within the space of a month and a half, and to describe my schedule as “hectic,” is a gross understatement. Now I come to Japan, which is one of the most vibrant, dynamic cities I’ve ever been to in my life: so much to see, do, and eat. There’s so much I want to tell you about this country and time is running out because I’ve got to start focusing on my Christmas posts. So, to make up for lost time and to make it even more difficult for myself, I hope to whip out this 8-part post in 8 days ”“ that’s a post a day! Goodness, help me. (But if I miss a day, don’t kill me, yes? I have a life to live, too.

I’m very methodical when I travel: I tirelessly research the countries that I’m going to visit, I print out lists of restaurants and shops that I want to go to complete with their addresses, telephone numbers, and hours of operation. They’re even listed according to priority, complete with highlights and post-its. Some people might say that I’m not leaving room for spontaneity, which is after all, the spirit of travel, but I like to know what to expect and more importantly, I don’t want to miss a thing. These lists are what I call my codigos.

Japan is one of those countries that holds a place of mystique in the minds of a lot of people, me included. It’s famous and influential in terms of its food, its manga and anime, and of course, its technology. Everybody knows about Japan, but nobody really knows what it is. It’s one of the great exciting unknowns. And, in spite of a few brushes (and tragedies) with colonial influence in its history, Japan’s culture has firmly remained intact and unsullied.

Chuo City

When my Bin, Boo, and I get to Japan along with my mom in law and sister in law, Risa, I show my codigo to another sister in law, Yappi, who’s been living in Tokyo for 13 years. She gives the printouts a perfunctory once-over and says, “Those are the touristy stops, what everyone comes here to see. I’ll show you what the real Tokyo is all about.” I’m immediately overwhelmed and injected with energy, I’m a rocket gunning to take off and see it for myself.

Yappi lives in a condominium in ChÅ«Å City, a central area of Tokyo that incorporates the famous districts of Ginza and Tsukiji on its eastern side. From Yappi’s 17th floor space, there’s a mesmerizing view of the Sumida River and one of the 26 steel bridges that cross this body of water.

Chuo City at night

at a commercial center in Chuo

The first thing we eat in Japan is okonomiyaki, a very common food that is largely unknown outside of the country. ‘Okonomi’ literally: “grilled whatever you like,” reflects the assortment of ingredients that can used in okonomiyaki, which is often described as a Japanese pancake or pizza. After seeing how it’s made, I tend to agree more with the description of the former. One thing that is quickly made clear to me in Japan is that each restaurant serves a specialty and only that specialty, be it sushi and sashimi, sukiyaki, yakitori, or in this case, okonomiyaki. It’s very unlike Japanese restaurants elsewhere in the world where a whole lot of Japanese food is available in one place.

bowls of ingredients for okonomiyaki

The only required ingredients to make an okonomiyaki are water, hondashi (bonito flavored powdered soup stock), eggs, flour, and chopped cabbage. Some people replace the flour with cornstarch, making for a more brittle, flatter okonomiyaki. Green onions are almost always added because of their unique flavor. Every table is fitted with a flat-top grill that’s turned on as soon as everyone sits down. A menu is given of all the various ingredients available, and Yappi reads out those she’d like for each okonomiyaki she’ll be making. Eating this Japanese specialty is a “group event,” and three or four, even more are the usual number ordered.

what every table at an okonomiyaki-ya looks like

mixing okonomiyaki batter

flattening okonomiyaki onto grill

cooking okonomiyaki

We begin with some sautéed shiitake mushrooms to whet our appetites and to get the umami (the fifth taste) juices flowing. The server periodically sets down a large bowl of the ingredients ordered which Yappi summarily stirs briskly and then pours onto the grill. Using a flat metal spatula, she evens out the mixture into a uniformly flat pancake. The mixture gently hisses and already I see the undersides browning ever so slightly. I can already smell the green onions, or maybe it’s the okonomiyakis from the other diners. There’s so much cooking going on at the other tables accompanied with loud conversations fueled by plenty of glasses of sake that I really can’t tell.

okonomiyaki is nothing without the Japanese mayo

Once the underside has set sufficiently, it’s flipped over, followed by a loud hiss and a wisp of smoke. Japanese mayonnaise ”“ the ultra smooth, super good kind ”“ is spread on lightly and then drizzles of a brown Japanese sauce commonly known as “Bulldog sauce,” aka, the brown sauce dribbled on top of katsudon. A few more minutes, and when done, Yappi neatly divides the okonomiyaki into four, one for each of us ”“ mom, me, my Bin, and herself. Boo is happy with her yaki soba (fried noodles) and Risa, my other sister in law, is outside taking pictures. She has several food allergies which prevent her from enjoying the foods that we eat on this trip.

making yakisoba

At first bite, okonomiyaki reminds me of the Philippine ukoy, the deep-fried patty made from rice flour, sweet potato, and shredded vegetables. But its Japanese counterpart is smoother, wetter, with an inherent richness from the mayonnaise and a citrus tang from the Bulldog sauce. A sprinkle of togarashi chili flakes contribute a tingly heat. Succulent slices of tomato dipped in more of that divine Japanese mayo cleanse the palate nicely between okonomiyakis.

when tomatoes are this juicy and sweet, it justifies why they’re considered a fruit

okonomiyaki

I’m enjoying my okonomiyaki with a chu-hi lemon, (sometimes chuhai, chihi), a carbonated drink that tastes like 7-Up. My Bin is liking the drink too but when he wonders why he’s feeling a bit dizzy, Yappi giggles and tells us to take it easy on the chu-hi because it’s got a shochu base, a rice wine with an alcoholic content between 35%-45%! Egads.

frozen strawberries with custard centers

When Yappi suggests some sherbet for dessert, I politely decline since I’m not a fan of sweetened ice. But she good-naturedly brushes my decision aside and orders some anyway. And am I glad she does! What the “sherbet” turns out to be are frozen strawberries filled with a cold custard mixture. Its arctic texture is a supreme contrast to the hotness we’ve been ingesting. All throughout dessert, we wonder aloud, “How do they get the custard inside these things?” alternating with “Mmm, so refreshing! So good!” I think it’d be wise to say ”˜yes’ whenever Yappi asks me if I’d like to try something here in Japan.

gourmet coffee store

After rolling ourselves out of the restaurant, we wander the shops situated in the area which I’m kicking myself now for not remembering the name of. (Have to ask Yappi!) The strong smell of coffee beckons me into what’s called a gourmet coffee store selling everything from beans to coffee makers. The only thing that’s missing is the actual serving of coffee itself.

Walking Chuo city at night

Some other things I see:

Japanese bookstore

woman selling Japanese snacks

Walking home, we cross a bridge near the Sumida River. We spy a boat ferrying passengers who are undoubtedly enjoying this beautiful, moonlit night. I snap a photo and smile, already excited for tomorrow.

I spent four months living on the edge of Tokyo in 2004, and this post’s heading alone got me excited. By the time I finished reading I had a blissful smile on my face. Thank you for bringing back so many memories, and I can’t wait to read the rest of the series!

Okonomiyaki is especially precious in my mind, because it was one of the last things I ate in Japan. A few days before I left the country, my English students took me to an Okonomiyaki joint in town; we exchanged gifts and bilingual stories over shochu and okonomiyaki. I get misty just thinking about it.

(I miss that chuhi so badly, by the way–my friends and I still struggle to find a way to import it!)

you’re absolutely right about japan being mystical. my friend and i did a side trip to japan this past january (first for both of us) and we both like. it’s too bad that i miss out on eating authentic japanese cuisine…..

its interesting you point out how one-type dish specialty restaurants is the norm in japan whereas rest of the world, the izakaya style restaurants (more varied dishes, drinking “pubs”) are more popular. and i think the fifth taste “umami” you point out loosely translates to “linamnam” in filipino. they used to, and still, derive it from seaweeds/kelp, especially in broths and soups. but of course its easier to get it from….ajinomoto. love japan. love it!

I remember okonomiyaki from “Ranma 1/2”. One of Ranma’s many suitors was an okonomiyaki chef, and she wielded a gigantic spatula as a weapon. Seeing actual pics of it in your post only whets my appetite for them. 😀

If you’re too lazy to make your own okonomiyaki at home next time,
there’s a nice okonomiyaki shop called Kagura in Little Tokyo. The toppings are normal, not as innovative as the ones you can find in Osaka, but they are pretty good already. Especially on cold days =)

Wow, Lori… Never really expected the “bento boxes” available in train stations to look that uhh, complete. I mean, there is variety of ingredients, the mix of colors and probably, the they all taste fabulous too!

I can just imagine biting into one of those frozen strawberries and tasting the custard melt in my mouth. Is the taste similar to strawberries ‘n’ cream kind of partnership?

i love okonomiyaki.. however here in our country theres only a handful who serves them and one or two who serves them right…
love the look of the strawverries and my mouth is salivating now wondering how it taste like…

hi lori! i just read this post and was really surprised – i met yappi through a common friend last year and even went on a tour with her. she’s so much fun to be with! you chronicled your japan trip so well. i’m in love with japan myself you see 🙂

i was surprised when i read this post and found out that yappi is your sister in law. we have several common friends and i met her in tokyo almost 2 years ago. we went to a beautiful kimono museum up in the mountains together with our friends. am looking forward to seeing her again!

i’ll be sure to try these places once i’m settled in tokyo. i’m leaving this april and staying for two years or more. kudos for a great website that keeps us foodies coming back for more!

I based my Tokyo trip this year on your blog. So insightful. Wanted to see all the places you’ve been but I only have 4 days to do it. Nonetheless, it was 4 days well spent. Keep on posting travel stories, love reading about it.

Thank you ma’am for posting this. I’m married to a Japanese but believe me I haven’t eaten any Japanese food, (maybe yes if shrimp tempura and Poky sticks count). I’m scared to try.
The Japanese are very particular in presentation and aesthetics but that okonomiyaki looks “yacky”. Sorry about that, can’t help it.
Maybe with your posts about Japan, I will try.