For me on top of the above quote get a router flash DDWRT / openwrt / tomato onto it (to replace stock router firmware) and you can then run a RADUIS server on the router itself to authenticate WiFi - the rest of the custom firmware functions (QOS anyone?) are a bonus plus those custom firmware's are constantly updated so holes in the underlying Linux that runs most routers gets fixed pretty fast - compared to a lot of "prosumer" (HaHa!) routers that are lucky to be updated only annually by the manufacturer then after 2-3 years zero updates from manufacturer who tell you to buy a new router to plug a security hole the manufacturer won't fix - but with custom firmware there are so many updates if you actually want to take them all up you could wear out a flash memory chip!

Fitted loads of Novaguard 4Q's - the battery is a 1.2 A/h 12 Volt and the four piezos run off only that internal battery - which used to be very handy - you wired it and set it up as a SAB but as it drew no bell current (only strobe current - the strobe later became an equally bright but low power consumption version later on) from the panel it was like an SCB - so you could fit more than one 4Q without any real current consumption issue from multiple bells needing auxiliary PSU's in the days of control panels having at most a 1 Amp PSU that was very useful for big multi bell systems - now there are a lot more panels with a 2 Amp PSU output and lots of fully monitored auxiliary PSU's so in that one narrow way the 4Q is no longer needed to avoid fitting Aux. PSU and the hassle (back then) of a second battery to monitor non-remotely.
But ye-gods the 4Q is loud and reliable - as long as you change the battery - ideally every five years (fully charge the replacement battery first - the 4Q is not the place to overcome the sulphation of an old stored battery - its fine once the battery is in use on float charge) and remember that the masterblaster needs a 240 volt mains power connection - if that goes missing no masterblaster siren - but the 4Q runs off its internal battery no matter what!
You can adjust the 4Q siren tone using a potentiometer next to the terminal block to achieve a nauseating toothache inducing racket - it's the kind of noise that reaches the parts that a masterblaster just can't quite reach!
So of course the Loonies making decisions at Risco discontinued the Gardiner Technology 4Q a unique product - once Risco got British Gas to buy control panels from them it went straight to Risco's head.
There is an Israel only Risco sounder that is even louder - something like 130dB RMS at 3 Meters (4Q was 123dB RMS at 1 Meter) but it looks nothing like a UK sounder and Risco won't bring it to the UK - the Israeli one is in one of my old Risco paper catalogues (if I come across it will scan it and upload - not promising have to find it first) if memory serves the Israeli one can be used with any panel but can also establish an intelligent link with a ProSys Bus to remotely monitor and test the battery and make current measurements etc. - like Risco's NovaguardActive link between multiple independently addressable and separately identifiable bells back to one panel for remote interrogation of battery status etc. (naturally Risco have cut that down as well to only two addressable bells on Nov.Active nowadays) but the Israel only one is on steroids compared to a UK Nov.Active - which I admit we do use if it is a Risco bell and panel.
The Israeli one has two interesting features it uses a speaker (not a piezo) as its sounder and it has a radar field which you can adjust (or switch off altogether) so if anyone comes within about a meter of the Israeli one on the wall it goes off before it can be touched - an intriguing concept - a nightmare for nuisance alarms if mounted too accessibly but if carefully sited the radar field could be useful - of course Risco won't bring it to UK.
Risco? With their attitude nowadays more like RICO - Racketeer Influenced and Corrupt Organizations Act (Organized Crime Law in USA) but I digress.......
There was a vertical type bell (non Risco) which had two giant piezos (about 5" across) that could produce something like 129dB (iirc) at 1 meter but that was only a peak measurement - (when we came across one it was nowhere near as loud as a 4Q) the 4Q, masterblaster and Israeli Risco one all had measurements quoted as RMS.
Anyone else want to chime in with the most powerful bells / sirens? They are good free advertising for an alarm company!

Glad to hear you fixed it.
The really old keypads (that you could fit with the hinged flap opening to the left, right or bottom) were actually the toughest as they had two contact discs on the back of each key - all the new ones only have one carbon contact on the back of each rubber key and in our experience do not therefore last as long - but I suppose that suits the manufacturer!

What I will now clarify again is that - I have noted that if you plug a USB COM into a Premier and then power up that Premier from stone cold then the COM 2400 will not work - and a few other things also behave incorrectly - (until you unplug USB COM - switch everything off completely and apply power again - everything is then fine) therefore have not done this (leaving USB COM connected to Premier on start up) since version 5 (I think) Premier and have been happily plugging and unplugging USB COM (but only on Premiers running normally at tick over - not when starting up) since then with no issues whatsoever - I cannot make the point any clearer.

breff I am interested in the fault you had that needed you to increase the modem level (do you mean in a Texecom speech / text dialler or a COM2400?) - could you expand on that point in the forum or send me a PM about it.

On a COM 2400 on a Premier 48 I have noted that the SMS centre numbers that are in the panel by default are not the ones shown in the manual - presumably Texecom in their infinite wisdom have changed this for a reason - I think I have read elsewhere in the forums something about Orange not working for this type of thing see if you can get it to go back to its original default number - you have set the (presumably Texecom) dialler to text as well as speech haven't you?
You do not need to pay BT to send SMS text out of a phone line as it is just analouge modem data being sent to a SMS Service centre who then turn it into an SMS and fire it at the correct number.
If you have ADSL you should have a filter as I guess you have tapped into A&B in the back of line box so are upstream of any other ADSL filters you have fitted - on the other hand the ADSL signal would stop at the exchange DSLAM/filter/splitter point where your phone line is split back into analogue voice signals and digital network data so in theory your ADSL interference could go no further to the SMS service centre so theoretically you would not need a filter unless the ADSL interference is stopping the dialler modem sending the text data as it keeps trying to listen for a clear line and is not starting sending its text message data as it does not think the line is clear?
Unplug your ADSL modem then try again to see if it works on line with inactive ADSL service.
The earth sounds fine.
I personally would have gone for a COM2400 instead of a speech text dialler - costs less and tells you exactly which zone has activated - I know from experience that it is generally less than 30 seconds from the event to receiving the text message - but if it were my house and going for this type of comms. I would use a probably dialler as well but give priority to COM2400.

Completely knocks out COM 2400 if plugged in at power up and a few other things - so have not been plugging in at power up since version 5ish (I think).
You assume a lot re Texecom Bridgewater I could equally imply that I am Lord Lucan but I would not expect to be believed.
My current location is not London it is also Bridgewater.
KiddingPigeon - it would be great to have you onboard why not apply for Trade Membership?

I suppose the more often alarms are serviced (i.e. annually) the more reliable they become - a funny coincidence that - who would possibly draw a link between regular servicing of a car and reliability of the car?
I cannot begin to imagine why cars are inspected with an MOT
I mean if the alarm annual service is totally optional I suppose the reliability of the alarm is equally totally optional and so who in that case would think that it would (by the same logic) actually be required to go off when the bedroom panic button is pressed at 3:00 AM to save your bacon - if the alarm has been neglected it is equally not going to serve you very well in your moment of need - is it?

This forum does not give out defaulting or resetting information. In any case you do not need that information according to your earlier post.
BaronRocket you posted the following:-
Mar 22 2009, 11:10 PM
I did do a default on the Panel at power up, but perhaps I didn't hold down long enough?
How would I go about a complete down power and repower? - I still do not see if you installed the entire system how you cannot know how to power up and down?
You are asking the same question today at 9:06PM about something you already claimed to have done - why?
It looks like the panel has been locked - but if you are the person who locked it surely you would also have the code and knowledge to unlock it?
If you reset it as you say you already did you must have the manual and have followed the instructions in that?
Do not worry I do not think you are going crazy - I think you are entirely sane - Could you just clarify why you are asking for info on stuff you claim to have already done?

One pair of wires for power and another pair for detector loop is all you need for DEOL and TEOL - details are in the manual.
Page 23 of the manual that came with the control panel details the entire reset procedure - reset will not work if you have locked engineer code in you must unlock engineer code first then reset. Once you have performed the reset check before doing anything else if all your settings have gone? If they have good - if not you have not unlocked the engineer code.
You are relying on the fact that that the programming you did within Wintex is correct - provided it is then things should work but if you have made an error in Wintex then you will be transferring the same error back into the control panel.
I personally do not program everything through Wintex I set most things up via the RKP make certain the basic system works test it and then use Wintex to take a copy of the program so far then create another account take another copy and then only work on one copy as occasionally things come to a grinding halt (even a Texecom salesman had this happen to him when he was demonstrating the system to me once years ago) and both the panel and the Wintex copy of the panel program can get corrupted then you wipe the panel and restore the "known good" configuration from the other Wintex account you created and then you remember not to make the same mistake OR discover the same glitch (in the software) again - a glitch is generally avoided by programming interdependent settings in a different order - or programming in a different order in general just do not set the same glitch off again!
Could you have remapped the zones by accident? I do not know if a 24 can remap zones but all the bigger ones can - might be worth looking into - any Premier 24 experts out there who can say if you can remap zone numbers on a 24?

I have never installed a Premier 24 only the bigger 48, 88, 168 and the 640 that is why I did not know the 24 has only two wire zone inputs as all except the 640 and 24 have 4 wire zone inputs - sorry I stand corrected.
What about the overloaded power supply issue? Shouldn

I suppose you are aware that you are over the maximum current draw allowed from that control panel? (even with both bells in SCB mode - what mode did you leave them in?) - according to Texecoms calculation software. You are not by any chance tripping out one of the polyfuses as well? - due to overload.
The Wintex resistance readings of 2.17 is correct but the other reading is open circuit meaning you have not connected the wire or not connected it correctly check it again - you would not be able to see the zone resistances of the zones on the expander unless you had programmed it correctly but you should be able to see it in device confirm so something is wrong.
I do not understand if you managed to put the system in how you do not understand how to switch it off and back on again? but half is correct so you are nearly there - keep going.