A long holiday in Australia inspired Michael Kors' Resort collection, a very signature sporty/sophisticated mix of fluorescents, zebra prints, and scuba-influenced silhouettes, along with some gold brocade a shade or two deeper than his models' tans. "Sydney is the ultimate city beach life," he said. "I was in love."

But Kors is nothing if not an equal-opportunity designer. He explained that an acid green and black stretchy wetsuit dress could work with black tights and ankle booties in New York or bare legs and flip-flops in St. Bart's. Versatility is the key to what he described as his brand's biggest season of the year. So is range. The bright, graphic lineup included everything from "eat-your-heart-out-Ursula" bikinis and a sleeveless stretch bouclé tennis dress to ten-ply cashmere sweaters and a reefer coat in a cashmere/angora mix.

The Resort season is just getting under way, but already neons and sport are emerging as two early trends. That puts Kors smack-dab in the middle of things.