THE Italian anchorage burghal of Naples ability be knee-high in trash. And, sure, it hashad its allotment of abrogating press, from blood-soaked Mafia wars to political corruption.But there’s absolute vibrancy, and alike a little beauty, in all that chaos. Monumentalpiazzas add an aloof blow to the blatant markets and Vespa-choked streets.Mount Vesuvius looms nearby, a addictive admonition that this airy boondocks canerupt any second. And again there’s pizza. That agreeable pie that calls this ancientcity home is acumen abundant to visit.

Friday

4 p.m.1) GET YOUR BUZZ ON

Espresso may not accept been invented in Naples, but the burghal takes itscaffeine actual seriously. Get into the bounded canal with a mild attempt of ambrosial espresso at the Gran Caffè Gambrinus (Via Chiaia, 1-2; 39-081-41-75-82; www.caffegambrinus.com), a blotchy bistro from the backward 19th centurythat hosted the affluent and famous, including Oscar Wilde. Sit outdoors toview the Piazza del Plebiscito, amid the best absorbing squares in Italy,as able-bodied as the arrangement of well-dressed Neapolitans activity about their day.

5:30 p.m.2) DRESSING THE PART

Now that you feel underdressed, burrow over to Anna Mattuozo’s tiny second-floor atelier (Viale Gramsci, 26; 39-081-66-38-74; www.annamatuozzo.it) forwhat some alarm the finest shirts in the world. Choose from an arrangement ofdistinctive fabrics and, with a few measurements, she will sew a shirtflawlessly fit to your form. Again arch over to Antonio Panico’s studio(Via Carducci, 29; 39-081-41-58-04; www.sartoriapanico.it) for a custom-madesuit.Your Neapolitan attending will amount a appealing penny (starting at 300 euros,or $483 at $1.61 to the euro, for a Mattuozo shirt and 1,800 euros fora Panico suit). But already you abrasion it, you’ll accept why.Second accessories are required, as are appointments.

8:30 p.m.3) PIZZA PIZZA

Naples is alike with pizza, and every citizen has a favorite.Many affirm by the allegorical Da Michele (Via Sersale, 1; 39-081-55-39-204; www.damichele.net), claiming that its adaptable chef makes the pizzaseasier to abstract (margherita and marinara only, for about 4 euros).Others are loyal to L’Europeo dei Mattozzi (Via Marchese Campodisola,4; 39-081-55-21-323; www.europeomattozzi.it), area Alfonso Mattozziwows assemblage with ablaze pies topped with cottony mozzarella and blood-redtomatoes (about 12 euros with a bendable drink). But for a absolutely unforgettablepizza, booty the funicular to the celebrated heights of Vomero, and again ashort cab ride to Pizzeria La Notizia (Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio,53/55; 39-081-71-42-155). The crowds don’t appear for the bashful décor;they appear for the pizza, which is crisp, ablaze and a absolute alloy of sauceand cheese (6 euros for the margherita).The secret? “We do not use a lot of ingredients, but the few we use areof the accomplished quality,” said the owner, Enzo Coccia. Addition secret:the chef rises for 10 hours.

11 p.m.4) NUOVO ORLEANS

The burghal isn’t accepted for its night life, but several venues action abundant alive jazz.One in particular, Noir (Vico Acitillo, 58; 39-347-05-12-211; www.noirnapoli.com) in Vomero, appearance accustomed headliners like theBilly Hart Quartet and the Ed Simon trio. Or footfall into Bourbon Artery (ViaBellini, 52/53; 39-334-38-18-158; www.bourbonstreetjazzclub.com), alively club on the cafe-lined Piazza Bellini.As its name suggests, this acclaimed dive feels and sounds added like Louisiana than Campania.

Saturday

11 a.m.5) ANCIENT NAPLES

Pompeii is absolutely account a visit, but to get the absolute feel for what this absent citylooked like, go to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Piazza Museo, 19;39-081-44-22-149; www.marketplace.it/museo.nazionale). A gigantic replicaof this once-glorious burghal brings the active acculturation to life, forth with a accession of artifacts like medical scalpels, bill and categorical horn dice. There is alike a allowance adherent to Pompeii chicanery with risqué frescoes and phallic sculptures. (Children beneath 11 not allowed.)

2 p.m.6) STREET SNACKS

Locals adulation their artery aliment and they adulation it fried. For alluring bites likepizza fritta (fried chef blimp with cheese and ham), arancini (fried riceballs with meat and cheese) and crochette di patate (fried mashed potato),head to the Centro Storico, the city’s actual center, area you’ll findthem for about 1 euro each. Some of the tastiest are served by Di Matteo(Via dei Tribunali, 94; 39-081-45-52-62) or its archenemy, Il Pizzaiolo delPresidente (Via dei Tribunali, 120/121; 39-081-21-09-03; www.ilpizzaiolodelpresidente.it), run by a battling relative. Feeling guilty?Visit one of the abounding churches in this adjacency to acknowledge your gustatorysins.

4:30 p.m.7) FIT FOR A QUEEN

If you anticipate apricot is aloof for angle tanks and apparel jewelry, coast into Ascione (Piazzetta Matilde Serao, 19; 39-081-42-11-11; www.ascione.it), a high-endjeweler on the additional attic at the Galleria Umberto, beyond from theTeatro San Carlo. Its ablaze rings, pearlescent bracelets and otherbaubles are all fabricated from coral, in the adjacent boondocks of Torre del Greco.Call advanced for an appointment. Baby groups can additionally bout its museumnext door, abounding with cameos and added apricot adornment from 1805 to thepresent.

8:30 p.m.8) DINNER WITH DORA

For some of the freshest seafood in town, assets a table at Dora(Via Ferdinando Palasciano, 30; 39-081-68-05-19). Tucked abroad on adeserted street, Dora looks like addition boilerplate trattoria, withits ablaze lighting, old paintings and blue-and-white checky tiles.But this backward restaurant is consistently arranged with bounded angle lovers.Try the bolt of the day (22 euros per kilo), acclaim broiled with olive oil,salt and auto and served with potatoes. The spaghetti alle vongole (19 euros) offers a adorable adverse of breakable clams and al dente pasta.Pair your seafood with a brittle falanghina. Prices (about 70 euros for dinner)are as corrupt as the fish.

11 p.m.9) EGG CASTLE

Follow the fashionable locals to Castel dell’Ovo (or Egg Castle), perchedon a tiny island area Naples is said to accept been accustomed some 2,500years ago. The island lights up at night with active confined and restaurants,though abounding are touristy. For a air-conditioned nightcap that feels like an insider’ssecret, alight a attenuated access to Caffè al Barcadero(Banchina S. Lucia, 2), a bohemian gem tucked beneath the bridge,where a 20-something army gathers to alternation smoke, sip negronis and flirt.

Sunday

11 a.m.10) SWEET BREADS

It’s not breakfast in Naples unless it’s sweet, so that agency lots of sfogliatelle.The clam-shaped pastry comes in two varieties: riccia and frolla.The riccia is the added apparent to Americans — a cool pastry carapace filledwith aperitive ricotta. The frolla has a bland shell. And back sfogliatellearen’t created equal, accomplish the accomplishment to acquisition Attanasio (Vico Ferrovia, 1-2-3-4),a baby bakery that serves a adorable sfoglia riccia hot out of the oven.

1 p.m.11) THE PASSEGGIATA

Neapolitans adulation their traditions and rituals: food abutting for the middaypausa, cappuccini are not bashed afterwards 10 a.m. and grated cheese nevergoes on top of seafood pastas. And on weekends, association booty to thestreets for their circadian passeggiata, or stroll. If the acclimate holds up,everyone walks against the Gulf of Naples, alongside the Villa Comunale park.It’s a aerodrome appearance of sorts: accouchement lick their gelatos, women saunterarm-in-arm in their Sunday best, and men altercate what men in Italyalways discuss: politics. It’s a accurate allotment of Naples.

THE BASICS

Eurofly (www.euroflyusa.com/US) flies absolute from New York to Naples,but alone from May through October. There is a appropriate book of $499 for May;after that, flights alpha at $875, according to a contempo online search.Other airlines, including Iberia Airlines, Delta and American Airlines, crave aconnection, with college fares.

Because Naples is a abundant walking city, it’s best to break in the burghal center.For admirable luxury, book at the Excelsior (Via Partenope, 48; 39-081-76-40-111; www.excelsior.it). With appropriate prices, a bifold allowance can alpha as low as206 euros ($331.66 at $1.61 to the euro).

For beneath allure but added charm, assets one of the 13 apartment or 6 juniorsuites at Costantinopoli 104 (Via S. Maria di Costantinopoli, 104;39-081-55-71-035; www.costantinopoli104.com). Best of the rooms,which alpha at 220 euros, discount the basin and garden, authoritative it easyfor guests to balloon they are accurately in the average of town.

Or try the beneath cher and appropriately called Chiaja Auberge de Charme(Via Chiaia, 216; 39-081-41-55-55; www.hotelchiaia.it). The 27-room hotel,part of which already housed a brothel, is in the centermost of boondocks and listsdoubles starting at 99.80 euros

source: New York Timeshttp://travel.nytimes.com/2008/04/27/travel/27hours.html?adxnnl=1&adxnnlx=1210324991-RP88ysXSzz/50rsZuCC1bQ

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