But I've really fallen in love with this classic steel frame. I realize that it wasn't a top tier frame, rather it was marketed as a great value frame for racers back in the 90's. Steel is Real!!! Its forgiving and simultaneously fast. You can feel those little bumps absorbed, but it still feel the road like you're running on thin racing flats. I guess the only obviously (to weight weenies) disadvantage is the weight penalty.

I'm ashamed to admit that this is my first steel bike. I started off with a aluminum schwinn circuit similar to those fat diameter-ed cannodale in the 90's and couldn't afford the Bridgestone RB-1 I wanted.

Its also interesting because of the Rivendell/Grant Peterson embryology behind the early 90's bridgestone offerings. This particular frame (along with the 94' frame had the ritchey double crown fork, and fender braze ons. You can see how similar these frames are to the Rivendell Rodeo offerings you can buy today. Also this particular yellow frame was offered with 8spd STI shifters and 130mm rear spacing - which made putting modern groupsets easy.

I was planning on splurging on an uber weight weenie build (Parlee + SRAM Red 2012), but I've been riding on this bike for the past almost year and don't really see the need.

I still couldn't escape the weight weenie that lurks inside all of us though.... I eventually converted the original threaded fork with a true threadless set up to save an almost pound of weight.

with the original threaded set up I had to use a threaded to threadless adaptor (165g) and the old Tange Falcon headset was made of steel and over 200g.

I was lucky enough to find a huge 62cm 1993 RB-1 frame for a great price. It had enough steerer for a threadless set up. I sold the frame alone and ended up only paying about $15 for the difference. I even found a webstore that sells the old decals for the fork and frame: http://www.velocals.com/servlet/the-61/ ... age/Detail" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So I still had to succumb to the need to cut weight where possible. It was fortunate that I still was able to do it with period correct parts! I realize that I could've saved even more weight with a carbon fork, but the ritchey double crown fork was unique to this particular frame. Its nice to keep it authentic and also have an extra fork - just in case.

Before the threadless conversion... I had to use a threadless converter.

After the conversion... everything was a lot cleaner... and LIGHTER! :

The new headset is a Cane Creek Classic 100 1". It was more than 100g lighter than the old headset, and also easily converted to a threaded top assembly (just purchase the threaded version of the top assembly from Cane Creek for under $50).

Eventually I'll probably get back into a carbon weight weenie build... but for the near future I don't really need a reason to.

Love it. Also interested in the trials and tribulations you've had with your fork and headset conversions. My old steel bike has a 1" threaded headset and I'm considering the best way forward to fit modern ergonomic handlebars. I maybe just buy a threaded steerer converter, or I may splash out for a new fork.

Last edited by Rush on Tue Jul 31, 2012 2:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

Love it. Also interested in the trials and tribulations you've had with your fork and headset conversions. My old steel bike has a 1" threaded headset and I'm considering the best way forward to fit modern ergonomic handlebars. I maybe just by a threaded steerer converter, or I may splash out for a new fork.

ebay is still the best source for full carbon forks with 1" steerers. you'll find the easton ec90 on there once in a while, but they can get expensive. there are a lot of no name full carbon forks with the 1" steerer that can be surprisingly inexpensive (like $100 and below) but you have to just get lucky and find them, because they can be difficult to search for using the eBay search engine.

I almost went with the ritchey classic seatpost. I did have the ritchey classic handlebar also, but I wanted to cut weight where I could. I still wanted to go weight weenie within reason.

The Ritchey classic handlebars were nice because they were the polished silver colored, had modern brifter friendly bends, but were very heavy at 289g. Eventually I found the Ritchey carbon bars, same bend, carbon comfort, and lighter.

The thomson masterpiece seatpost is actually pretty light for a post with setback at 158g. I did run this bike with a 0º setback post but the setback was a lot more comfortable w/ better fit.

Its kind of a shame, because if the 0º setback worked well enough, its a place where you can save a lot of weight with lots of options.

I'm jealous! I had an MB0 and an XO1 back in the 90s but sold both about 10 years ago. I loved them both and almost bought an RB1 from the bankruptcy sale of my old LBS but didn't because the parts were already obsolete. That's a really nice bike and well done.

Yes, Bridgestones didn't cost the earth but they used good tubing and were made in Asia to save a few bucks. If I remember correctly, one of their problems was that they were made in Japan and high labour costs got them. Peterson did a good job of specing nice frames with decent parts. I wish I'd kept my zip and I'd like an RB so enjoy it.

I'm jealous! I had an MB0 and an XO1 back in the 90s but sold both about 10 years ago.

^I was fortunate that it was a slow bike season (winter/fall) and it was listed on craigslist and not eBay.

RB-1's and even MB-1/MB-0 can still be found for fair prices, but those XO-1 models are the true prize amongst Bridgestone Bike Collectors. Ebay auction's with even fair condition MB-0 bikes usually end in prices (considering that its basically a hybrid/cyclocross commuter bike) very very similar to a present day Surly LHT.

originally I planned to put a more affordable group like rival on it because that actually holds true to the original DNA of having a high performing easy on the budget groupset. But now that the new SRAM Red 2012 is out and original Sram Red is devaluating fast, I might as well keep the old Red Group on it.

So the fork on the big bike had enough non threaded steerer for you to just use it like a threadless once a star nut was installed? That's a new one for me, but sure looks like it worked. Congrats, stellar build.

So the fork on the big bike had enough non threaded steerer for you to just use it like a threadless once a star nut was installed? That's a new one for me, but sure looks like it worked. Congrats, stellar build.

yes. you just have to cut off the threaded part. then use it as you normally would in a threadless set up.

the geometry is old school with the smaller frames having shorter headtubes and the extra large frames having very long head tubes.

the fork from the 62cm old frame had plenty of steerer to accommodate a threadless set up (after measuring the new stack height of the new headset/stem/leeway for a couple of thin spacers)- after cutting off the threaded portion. I ended up using a thomson stem shim (25.4-28.6) to fit the modern stem. Install the star nut and its just like any other modern threadless set up.

I think the modern colnago master frames still use a 1" steerer. With options of either a 1" steel fork for the 1" carbon fork they make exclusively for the frame. I can only assume they use a shim to fit into the modern 28.6mm stem diameters.

I caved in and ended up trying (and loving the Ritchey Classic seat post).

updates:

- Switched out old SRAM Red FD for a 2012 Red FD (was really really easy to install, and works great for the first quick ride). Old Red FD was great when dialed-in, but could be finicky upon installation.

- went with the matching Ritchey Classic seatpost. The Thomson Masterpiece setback was a marvel of engineering but I like it better matching and like the 25mm of setback (compared to the 10mm of the Masterpiece).

- Ritchey Carbon Logic Curve Handlebars. Same curve as the Ritchey Classic Curve in Polished aluminum- but now add another level of comfort to an already very comfortable steel bike.

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