I use that method whenever I have a drip on a the edge of a panel. If I get a curtain near the edge on say a trunk lid I will chase the run to the edge then come back and wipe the little clearsicle (new word) off with a detail brush soaked in reducer. Better still I just try not to get a run in the first place.

hmm, interesting, I still try the sticky side of tape trick if I get a run. I tried wiping with a wet finger (keep you mind out of the gutter) once like was suggested somewhere and all i did was make a bigger mess.

Tell you what I did years ago
because I spray any Restoration or show car so wet I will have a run or 3-4 somewhere, I would not be happy with the job if I did not.
Thats just me.

Years ago I use to spray clear on a scrap panel and play with the runs with masking tape trying to get as smooth as possible.
I have got that down where maybe half the time you won't see the run and the other half where it will need 1500 wet to smooth out.

All I try to avoid is a run that requires you to use a block thats why so much effort with the tape.

When I don't get a little run in the job it just makes me wonder if maybe I could have applied it wetter I'll try the dagger trick on the next one. Barry, you could have made this the tip of the day So do I just apply the brush like I'd be striping and just pull the run down or up? Or do you just lay the brush on the run and then pull it back off of the surface? I'm thinking the reducer melts the clear enough that the brush pulls some off the surface. Bob

The run was about two inches long.
He stuck the tip in the beginning part and laid the brush down in the run and than pulled off.
Had to do it a second time on a 1/2 inch left over that brush was not long enough to reach.
Must re-wet brush each time.
I think your right about the reducer.

When I tape a run, I hit it again with another coat of clear but did not have too on this run.
Clear just looks a little rough sprayed there and they can hit it with 2000 today along with speck of dirt in center of deck lid and be done with it.

If I had spray a coat of clear over the run spot I don't think you would have needed to buff it but rest of car was so clean, I did not want to pull trigger and cause further problems because the deal was any screw ups on my part they would fix and buff. So tried to do it so they would not have to buff.
I just hate the idea of someone buffing my paint work.

That's a great tip, I've done the masking tape before with limited success, I don't paint that often to get the practice. I also like the way you think on the getting a wet coat, I won't feel like such a D.A. when a run happens to me, I've had a job too dry and was very unhappy. Dan

the way i spray clear i have to use a roller i'd rather fix a few sags as sand orange peel. if it aint saggin...you aint done yet. i got pretty good at brushing out sags when we ran vans. 10 a day with 5 painters [ and i use that term loosly] we had a bit of repairs to handle.

Here is what i consider a wet paint job.
I had two coats of base sprayed at 78 degrees and let the last coat set one hour and did my mil checking so I could check my mils of clear when done.

I used HS clear and raised temp to 82 degrees while shooting.
It took 30 minutes to apply the three coats of clear and fixing the run.
Set booth at 115 for 20 minutes and when got back from lunch we milled the car. Average clear mil was 8.8-9.2 pretty consistent but where the run was left front bezel (inside) on the car in my picture (except pink) it was 12-13 mils.

No doubt it was user error! (incompetent gun control) Hey they don't make those sata RP's like they use to?

a mil is a measurement of the thickness of paint or something else. Like say 4 mil plastic (visqueen). They make l gauges to measure the mil thickness of paint and primer you have on the car. When I worked a short time as an industrial painter we were required to take a mil thickness reading on several of the parts and make sure it was within specs and was part of a sheet and checklist we had to fill out.

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