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Just from the video, mechanic thinks it might be either alternator or crank shaft pulley.
I often hear a brief little version of that noise when pulling away, just before the car starts moving (when clutch is slipping briefly before its locked in?). Does this point to crankshaft pully? but it only lasts for less than a second
(sorry for terminology I dont know much about cars!)

Hi all, I've got an intermittent knocking sound. Comes and goes. Sometimes from cold start, othertimes when driving for a while.
It did not occur when the mechanic had the car for two days so he couldn't progress.
I've since had the car back (after service), and it occurred again, so I thought I'd record it, to show him later.
I parked with engine running, and as I was stationary and it was after dusk, turned the automatic lights off - and the sound was quieter!?
I put the lights back on again, and it was louder. Any thoughts?
I couldn't pop the bonnet without switching off and removing the key, but after switching off and on the ignition, the sound went away again.
Here's the video.

Hi, thanks for your help so far. I've been doing some research on what code reader to get, but just getting confused (not difficult!). Some people say ODB1 some say ODB2! I have a 53 plate 2.0 TDCI Ghia X Mondeo. According to RAC Data check when I bought it. 99% sure its TDCI 130bhp. A post on another forum says : "Mondeo 95/115hp TDDI/TDCI from 2000>2003 LX/GL/Ghia are not obd2Mondeo 115/130hp TDDI/TDCI from 2002>2007 Ghia-X/Titanium Spec are as thay use a diffrent wire loomthere is a bit of a cross over between the cars but all made after 2003 should be obd2" They could be wrong? So it looks like 2003 Ghia X might be ODB2? (It has leather seats and fake wooden steering wheel). I'm after something for as little as possible. Max budget £60. What do I want? Shall I take a photo of my connector (whereever that is?), I'm happy doing the PC/Windows side of things :) Also see posts by stokesd3 here ? Also its a 53 plate - first registered on 30th Jan 2004, so it might be one of the later models that is ODB2 compliant? I understand the newoer scanners are cheaper? I'd rather take a punt on a £20 scanner before splashing out on a Ford Specific ODB1 ? Probably answered my own question!!

Hi, had a recent issue with a dead battery. That's fixed now, but the car has developed another fault which I think is unrelated? When I accelerate hard in 1st or 2nd, the power drops away rapidly. Earlier than it usually does, And it feels like its generally lacking a bit of power. (I've already had the blanking plate done etc) At one point I'm pretty sure the engine switched off (stalled I suppose) as I was pulling away hard, I couldn't wait long enough to confirm it had stalled so I just cycled the ignition and carried on driving. Also at another time on the motorway, I gave it some welly, and was in 6th gear at 90mph, (just treying to understand the symtoms), and power dropped a little and the coil light started flashing. This went away the next time I started the car (which happened to be the stall just above). I guess I should get the fault read but it's intemittent and goes away when the ignition is switched off. Anyone recognise these symtoms? I can drive the car sensibly and it seems OK apart for when I try to accelerate hard (and sometimes thats useful)

Cheers, FWIW it was the factory installed battery being replaced. It had a sticker on it - first charged 2003! So it looks like it's had a good innings at a shade over 10years, and I'd be wise to stick with the new one regardless ? (Also I didn't collect the old one !)

Ive been told its the battery at fault and quoted £115 including fitting. Does this sound right? EDIT: I just checked halfords and prices are about this too! Sigh... PS: My mate advised that even sealed maintenance free batteries can be revivied with a distilled water top up. Does that sound like a first port of call first?

Update. Definitely not battery. Tried booster, jump and an overnight charge using a home charger. There are a lot of odd sounds coming from under the hood after trying to start then turning off ignition. I'll post up video soon...

Quick update: Tried a jump from a smaller car (Renault Laguna IIRC) - first attempt sounded like definite battery drain - a few clicks and all dash lights dimmed we let it sit for a bit longer with his engine running and tried again - this time it behaved exactly like the first time (in the video) There has also been water in the car (steamed up windows) for the last few weeks, getting in via back window. I've slapped some silicone sealant in the gap recently but car needs to dry out. I'm about to rummage around in the loft for a 15+ year old battery charger and give that a go...

Thanks, they recovery chap didn't look too confident using the battery booster - it was a model he's not used before. I'll try a jump start this evening if not call a local mechanic.. We did try a bump start though and there didn't seem like any murmur from the engine, but maybe these cars don't bump easily?