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Saying Goodbye to Your Garden

Moving is a fact of life for most Americans. About 12 percent of us, or 1 in 9 - will move in any given year, according to the U.S. Census Bureau. Leaving the gardens we have lovingly designed and tended is a difficult part of any relocation. How do we make it easier on ourselves? What plants can we take with us? Is it best to dig them up, take cuttings or harvest seeds? These 10 tips will ease the transition and will help you take some of what you love with you - plants, ideas and inspiration for a new garden.

1. Make a record of the garden you're leaving. You can use a loose-leaf notebook, a bound garden journal or an online filing system that accepts notes, digital images and other information. Pick whichever form of record keeping appeals to you; you want an easy system that you will use.

Collect whatever details you have about what you've planted: how it succeeded (or didn't), which plants or combinations you loved best, hardscape materials and any designs you've made. Gather seed packages, plant catalogs (add notes), plant labels, seed stakes, garden journals and photographs. If you're using a digital filing system, scan the papers and file them with notes attached. If you're using a notebook or bound journal, file them in pockets in the notebook or tape them to the pages of the journal.

2. Take photos, videos or both. If you haven't been shooting photos or video of your garden all along, start before you leave. Don't forget to capture plant combinations that worked particularly well, such as this Pikes Peak Purple penstemon (Penstemon x mexicali), still blooming in southern Colorado in October, backed by the upright form and lovely fall color of little bluestem grass (Schizachyrium scoparium).

3. Gather images from all seasons and from various times of day. You'll want to remember how plants looked at different times in their lives and different times of the year. For example, the orange-scarlet autumn color of the skunkbush sumac (Rhus trilobata) in this photo is lovely paired with the golden blossoms of rubber rabbitbrush (Ericameria nauseosa).

Take photos at different times of day to show what was blooming at what hours, how the light fell, those great shadow patterns at sunset and the pools of shade at midday.

4. Describe design elements and hardscape. Make sure to note things that you're really pleased with, including design elements and hardscape. Did a patio come out especially well, both the materials used and the shape? Did you build raised garden beds you really loved? Take photos and make notes of a particularly successful (or unsuccessful) design element's materials, dimensions and relationship with other elements. Don't think you'll remember - chances are you won't.

5. Document projects in progress. Didn't finish a project? You can record it anyway. What did you like about it? What would you change? What was the process of planting and construction? Is the project specific to that particular site or are there elements you could use again?

Those details of how the project flowed and how it fit your expectations and what you can take away from it will influence what you do in your new garden, so make sure you record as much information as you can.

6. Note relationships and what you've learned about wildlife, desirable or not. Which plants attracted the most butterflies? What was the late-blooming flower that the migrating hummingbirds focused on every year, returning to sip its nectar? What about the bulbs that were always full of tiny native bees in early spring? Which plants did the cottontails munch to the ground? What did the deer avoid?

Blossoms of the native bractless blazingstar (Mentzelia nuda var. stricta) in this photo, for instance, open in the evening and attract bumblebees to gather their pollen. Bumblebees are larger and heavier-bodied than most native bees and, thus, are more chill-tolerant and able to be active in the cooler hours of early morning and late evening. Planting flowers that attract certain pollinators is one way to ensure those species' survival.

These common sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) are another example of a plant that is critical to a certain kind of wildlife. They never fail to attract goldfinches, called "wild canaries" for their chiming, bell-like calls and sweetly melodic songs. Goldfinches clamber over the flower heads and pry out the fat-rich sunflower seeds with their pointed beaks. The seeds provide critical calories and vitamins for goldfinches in their migration.

7. Research your new planting zone and garden site. Before you move, get an idea of how different your new location will be from your current one. Is it in the same USDA plant hardiness zone? To learn more detail about climate, substrate and ecological conditions, look up what ecoregion you'll be in on the Environmental Protection Agency's maps. An ecoregion map is a map of an area's natural communities, including their biological, geologic, soil and climate attributes - all useful information for gardeners.

To find your ecoregion on the EPA's general map of the U.S., click on the region that includes your state, and then find your ecoregion from the more detailed map. (Level III ecoregions are probably the most useful for gardeners.)

8. Identify favorite plants in your existing garden. Once you have an idea of the conditions in your new site, decide which favorite plants in your current garden will thrive in your new place. Then do some research. Familiarize yourself with any restrictions on transporting plants from one region to another (the National Plant Board is a place to start). Next, learn the best way to bring them to your new place: as whole plants dug up and potted, as cuttings to root, as bulbs or tubers, or as seeds. If you have time to prepare, make a spreadsheet, a list or a calendar with times of the year that are best for preparing each plant for the move.

For tough English irises, like the ones in this photo, it's best to dig their tubers in the fall after the leaves have turned brown. If you're not moving right away, store the tubers in breathable bags in a cool, moist place so that they won't dry out or sprout.

9. Label your selections. This seems self-evident, but in the rush of preparing for a move, you may assume that you'll remember what those seeds are in the pill bottle or envelope. You think that you'll remember what's in that pot with a dormant plant and no identifying characteristics, or the zip-close bag containing cuttings wrapped in a wet paper towel, or the paper bag full of papery bulbs. Maybe you will, and maybe you won't.

To be sure, note the name, species or variety and the date collected on a label or right on the container with a permanent marker. That way you'll be sure you're planting what you intended to.

10. Take care of your selections before and during the move. If you're bringing plants in pots, keep them watered and comfortable - not too hot or too cold. Most moving companies won't take live plants, but they will move pots with dormant plants, so make sure your plants have what they need to survive the trip.

If you're moving seeds, cuttings, bare-root plants, bulbs, corms or tubers, package them appropriately for their journey. Cuttings, bare-root plants, bulbs, corms or tubers need to stay moist and in the dark. Don't allow them to freeze or broil. You don't want them to sprout or break dormancy before you get them into the ground, and you also don't want them to dry out. Seeds come in their own natural packaging in the form of a seed coat. But even these embryonic plants need cool and dark conditions to stay alive.