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W205KV Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for W205KV parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Turned off water suply. Removed drain (pipe is short). Then slid washer out so I could tilt it back and work under the washer. I put a wood brace under the front of the washer for safety. I then followed the instructions that came with the parts.

replaced snubber ring and springs to stop unbalanced spinning

Move washer to area with plenty of room. I took mine out to the deck. take off front of cabinet remove back panel, remove old springs, (a bit hard) remove belt, lift out tub turn over and loosen screws do not remove!! remove old snubber and replace with new, Not bad. Put tub back in washer put on new springs(didn't think I'd ever get them on, not enough upperbody strength)Video would have been priceless!reattach belt and panels put washer back in place. No noise upon spinning but I now have issues with the agitator, Need a new washer!

Unplugged and removed the drain and supply hoses from the back; some water will run out so be ready for that. I laid the machine down on two 2x4s to keep from crushing the supply and drain nipples. Just follow the instructions included with the parts, all steps are straight forward accept for two things: 1. they talk about pulling down on the transmission shaft to slip on the retaining clip. With only the end of the shaft sticking out there isn't much to grab on to. I found by using a thin blade scraper inserted into the retaining clip groove, prying downward on the shaft I could then get a regular screwdriver blade into the same groove and expose the entire groove and slip on the clip. 2. they talk about "Adjusting Brake Disengagement" after studying this for a while it just refers to which thickness of thrust washer to use. After trying both the .062 and .032 I found that only the .032 would allow the retaining clip to engage. Rechecking the brake disengagement, everthing seemed to work fine. The machine now has a stronger spin cycle and even bath towels are ready for drying after the normal spin.

I used a putty knife to disengage the clips that attach the top of the washer to the front panel. The top will lay back without having to hold it however, I didn't trust it to stay up on it's own so I used a bungy cord and straped it onto a wire rack that hangs on the wall above my washer. Next I removed the two screws, one on each side, located on the inside of the front panel near the top of it. Then I gently pulled the front panel towards myself so that I could lift it off of the clips located at the bottom of the panel. The pump assembly is located at the front right corner inside of the washer. I disconnected the two hoses that run to the pump assembly and using my ratchet, I removed the 3 screws that hold the pump assembly in place. There is a belt on the bottom of the washer that goes around three pulleys, one of which is the pump assembly pulley. After I removed the pump assembly, I took the belt and laid it to the side. I then installed the new pump assembly. After I put everything back together, I gently tipped the washer over on it's side as far as I could and reinstalled the belt around all three pulleys. I started with the pulley on the left side and then the pulley in the middle and finally, the pump assembly pulley. I have washed a total of seven loads of laundry since I did the repair and have had no problems.

Machine was very noisy, tub spun slowly when loaded & lid switch actuator was broken. Drive belt had very little tension on it.

Remove the access panel at the back of the machine. Locate the Motor Pivot Spring. It is about the same diameter as a coat hanger and is attached to the motor and the motor base. I was able to remove the old spring and install the new spring with my fingers. When removing the old spring, remove the motor end first, then the motor base end. When installing the new spring, attach the motor base end first, then the motor end.

Washer jumping all over the place even with a small load.

I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.

Ok, let's do this thing.

MAGIC TOOLS:5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.

1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.

2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.

3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.

4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.

5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.

6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!

7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.

8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.

Plastic pulley broke

No one would sell me just the plastic pulley,they said that I had to buy the whole motor.160.00 dollars.I keep searching and found partselect.com and they had the pulley on line.I had my part in two days for about 12.00 dollars and it took about 5 min. to install.Just had to tap it lightly with small hammer to move it up the rod to fit in groves.Thank-you partsselect for being honest. BOB N.C.

terrible screeching during agitation after having washer only 3 months

First I disconnected the hoses and moved washer out to a larger area. Washer had to be completely torn down. Took front cover and casing off. Took all electrical and plumbing fixtures out. Removed the drum hold-down springs. Removed the drive belt. Inverted the drum/agitator section. Removed the drive pulley and bearing assembly. Removed the brake snubber. Removed the brake shoe. Reinstalled new parts. Put washer back together. It now works great.

Water pump failed and was making loud screeching noises. Eventually, it bound up stopping the washer.

I unplugged the electric power cord and disconnected the two water hoses and the drain line from the wall. It was messy as water leaked from the disconnected hoses. I tilted the washer forward and leaned it against a bench for support. This exposed the bottom of the washer from the back. I removed the v-belt from the three pulleys. The motor mount was spring loaded making it easy to remove the v-belt from this pulley first. After removing the v-belt, I then removed the 4 screws to the small plate on the back of the washer to gain access to the water pump. I then removed the two water hoses from the water pump using vice grips to squeeze the clamps and slide them off of the hoses toward the water pump. After removing the two hoses (a little messy again), I removed the water pump by using a socket ratchet to loosen the four bolts. I replaced the water pump with the new pump and then reassembled everything in reverse order.

By sliding the machine out away from the wall I tipped it back so that it set against the wall on an angle enough for me to work on the bottom. I removed the belt and drive pully. The brake stator can be removed from the bottom if drum is centered. The brake is under pressure from a big spring in there that applies the brake. Replacing three of its mounting screws with longer ones (10-24 x 2) allows you to let pressure off of the brake spring slowly. Replaced brake rotor and stator and compressed spring with long screws as in removal. Replaced all original screws to hold in place. Installed pulley and belt. Works like brand new, all for about $30. I bought the snubber also but did not realize that this is not part of the brake. I little confusing on the parts drawing.

Tipped machine 45-degrees to reveal belt on bottom of machine. Used screwdriver to remove old belt which looked fine. Installed new belt (which arrived from PartSelect within 2-days) but it felt loose. Tried machine anyway and it works just fine. Easiest repair ever. Thanks, PartSelect!

I took out all the tubs and the apparatus holding the gear and thrust bearing assembly. I used a homemade tool (long zipties) to pull the springs off and to put them back on. After that I just replaced the thrust bearing with the new kit and put everything back together.

I disconnected and moved the washer into the garage for optimum work space. Then I opened the top panel (by releasing the two retainer clips between the top and front panels with a putty knife inserted approx 2" in from each side) and taped a spacer block between the back of the tub and the back panel of the washer, to keep the tub from moving toward the back when the washer is tilted.

Then I tilted the washer back against my 2 1/2' high workmate bench (backstopped against the wall). After adjusting the tilt angle to provide adequate access to the bottom of the washer and insure it was was beyond the forward center of gravity, I began the repair.

Working from the bottom, I first removed the drive belt. Then the white dust cap, shaft retaining ring, plastic cam, pulley, and the various washers and bearings leading up to the brake assembly, making note of their order.

Then I removed three of the six 1/2" 10x24 brake stator retaining screws at alternating positions replacing each with one of the three 2" 10x24 screws I had previously purchased the hardware store. Then I removed the three remaining 1/2" screws, and slowly began to remove the three 2" screws alternating a few turns on each in rotation to evenly ease the 200 pounds of pressure from the brake rotor spring.

When the pressure was released, I removed the old brake stator and rotor and placed the new ones on the shaft, then re-compresed the brake rotor spring with the three 2" screws in alternating positions. Then placed three of the original 1/2" screws in the threee open positions, then replaced the three 2" screws with the remaining three 1/2" screws.

Then I reinstalled the remainder ot the parts in reverse order of removal.

These gaskets and seals were relatively easy to get to. I replaced all 3. Put machine back together, but washer still leaked. I ended up having to remove more components down along the center shaft towards the transmission. I found that the "tub seal" was worn out. I also replaced the "seal nut assembly" and "O-ring" while I was at it. The seal nut and tub seal were more difficult to remove without the proper tool, but a bigger rubber mallet and strategically placed pliers were enough to break them loose. Once all parts showed up the washer went back together easily and it is now leak-free.

Washer made grinding noise then stopped working.

First I tipped the washing machine onto its front. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine. Then I removed the screws that held the cover in place on the back of the machine. Next I removed the two hoses that were connected to the vertical pump using pliers to pinch the clamps. I then removed three screws that held the vertical pump in place. I took the new verticle pump with pulley and mounted it to the washer and putting the washer machine back together using the previous steps in reverse order.