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LA SPORTIVA Miura VS Climbing Shoes

For climbers that demand the highest level of small foothold performance from their climbing footwear. The La Sportiva Miura VS climbing shoes excel at hard rock climbing, power edging, pockets, Yosemite granite... and everything in between.

Features/Benefits:

Full eight-panel Dentex-lined upper for unsurpassed comfort

Dynamic slingshot heel band that focuses power to the toe box

Offset asymmetrical toe box places power and energy under the big toe

Slip-lasted construction

1.1mm Laspoflex midsole (forefoot only)

On sizing, please note climbing shoe sizes are only a suggestion as fit is highly personal. Foot shape, use, and style all play into size selection.

I've just spent three days climbing in these, but here are some initial reports & thoughts after testing them out and after trying on close to 20 different pair in stores:

1. If these shoes fit you, I think they will perform amazingly. How do you know if they fit? If they are comfortable and if you can leave them on your feet for at least an hour. I bought them tight originally but couldn't sit through 1 baseball inning. Returned them for a 1/2 size up and these have just a little air in the heel (nickle's width) and am glad I did. Feet swell when climbing and the room is nice to have. Now I can leave them on for well over an hour.

2. I used these replace to my very comfortable 5.10 Ascents, a stiff multi-purpose shoe that I used for everything (V4 to 10 pitch trad climbs). I was not expecting a "bouldering/sport" shoe to be so comfortable, but on my feet they are. Ballerina bend and all...

3. I have a wide forefoot and these accommodate that just fine. I do wish the velcro tabs were slightly longer, I'm close to maxing them out.

4. I have a heels that that are very picky about the shoes they like. These have a deep but smooth heel cup which is particularly comfortable when dropping the heel while resting. This surprised me, as most shoes I've had seem to up the pressure on the heels when you drop your heels. These seem to relieve the pressure. An important bonus for easing tension in nervous spots and for surviving hanging belays.

5. The rubber is very good. These edge and smear and hook beautifully.

6. I like the stiff soles which does handle crack climbing just fine and provides more under-foot protection on long rough routes.

I wear 12.5 street shoe, 43 Solutions, and 42.5 in miura vs was a tiny bit big. No chance of slipping off with great Velcro closure system, but could stand a 42.

This shoe is like a stiff Solution with better edging and smearing. Of course being stiffer, it doesn't have the same touch as the solutions. The toe is great on these shoes. You'll have more power than in solutions or any other shoe I've tried. Personally, I prefer the solution heel and toe for corresponding hooks, but vs does both fine.

Miura vs is a more "complete" shoe than the solutions. If you already have a great flat-wall shoe, then I'd go for solutions. If this will be your main pair for most climbing go with miura vs.

Like a lot of people, I'm a huge fan of the original Miura. These shoes share the same name with the addition of "VS" but, really, they're a totally different shoe in my mind. Much more aggressive, with the pointed "beak" like toe and at the same time, quite a bit less comfortable. La Sportiva shoes have a great fit for me (although I wear a full 2.5 sizes down from my street shoe size - that's right - I wear 10.5 mens US street shoes and a 41 (US men's size 8) in these and they fit great. Note, these shoes won't stretch but the will break in a bit and get more comfortable after a few long days in them). To me, I think if you are coming from the regular Miuras you might want to go a size or half size up than what you run in the regular Miuras, unless you are looking for a pretty hardcore fit that you won't be able to keep your feet in for more than 30 mins. I climb mostly indoors and these are great for that but I'd be reluctant to bring these for a long day at the crag for anything but bouldering where I could take them on and off. All in all, I prefer the regular Miuras, they edge just as well (maybe even better?) and have more flexibility for smearing etc. These seem more like the kind of shoe that people who boulder really steep stuff all day would like... for that they're great.

so I destroyed my first pair after about a 1.5 years of climbing 2 times a week on average. Toes rubber was gone and some of the Velcro went bad. They definitely lasted a long time and were a huge help in developing as a climber coming from my old Evolves.

When it came time for a new pair of shoes, I really liked these but purchased the solutions as well to get a sense of the difference between them since I see so many people using them. My impressions are that the Miura VS is just a much better all around bouldering and sport climbing shoe. The edging is much better in this shoe and the power transfer with the full rubber sole makes a huge difference over the solutions. As soon as I put the solutions on, I noticed how much more flexible they were due to the missing rubber at the foot arch and I felt like I just lost pop and power when I was on the wall. I am sure the solutions are great for overhanging routes but the Miuras are plenty aggressive and downturned as well. So the solutions went back and I am now on my second pair of Miura VSs. Now I just laugh at all the newbie climbers who purchase solutions because they look cool and the pros wear them.

My final thoughts are that if you are considering a high performance shoe for bouldering and aggressive sport, this is your one stop all around beast. The solution is an awesome shoe for aggressive overhanging routes I am sure, but you will want a slab shoe as well if you go with them. I also should mention I sized down only about half a size from street size and they are tight! I wear a 9.5 or 10 US street and have these in 42 EU. I was using them on outdoor lead and bouldering but because of tightness on longer multi-pitch lead my feet definitely start feeling it. I plan on purchasing a loser dedicated sport shoe for the spring, possibly the lace miuras a size larger. These will be my gym and outdoor bouldering shoe, or when working on shorter/ more difficult sport routes.

Hope this review helps!! Now buy these shoes and get back on that wall!!

initial response; love the shoe. Not quite solution toe performance, but with this shoe, the whole toe box is brought into play resulting in a well-rounded and versatile slipper. Fit is comfy with a well secured heel. Stuck with my standard 2 sizes below street shoe sizing and am very happy so far.

So far I've been using these in the gym exclusively, and once broken in (took about two days) they feel pretty solid. Not quite as sensitive in the toe area as my last shoes (5.10 Spires, sized aggressively) they initially felt downright clunky in the toe—and this is with no noticeable dead space in there—but once broken in, the toe is much more touchy-feely. They still definitely aren't as sensitive as the Sportiva Mythos I've owned, and as I mentioned before, the 5.10 Spires, which for "entry level" shoes, were surprisingly sensitive.

The comfort out of the box was pretty good; no rubbing on my heel from the pull loops, no rubbing or unwanted pressure on my toe knuckles, no excessive force applied to my achilles tendon by the heel rand. These seem more spacious in a 41 than my Spires did. Unsurprisingly, as a fairly aggressively lasted shoe, they are seemingly made with keeping your toes bunched up into the front in mind, and leave ample room in the toe box so your knuckles don't top out with too much pressure.

The one comfort/fit area I find lacking in these is the heel. It seems to be just too deep for me, and unless I'm standing flat and putting weight on my heels, there is some unwanted dead space in there. I found this much the same as with the Sportiva Katana velcros I've owned in the past; nice snug fit up front, heel cup a bit too deep. This was not a problem with my Mythos or 5.10 Spires, in which I filled the heel amply.

Fortunately, these are much more comfy than the Katanas ever were, and feel like they'll perform similarly. The heel rand on the Katanas was an annoyance, causing some heel pain, but these seem fine in that area, though I've sized them similarly, and the style of shoe is also similar. I'm not sure if there is an increase in fit in the front due to having three velcro straps vs. two on the Katanas. And, while I bought them with quick on/offs in mind, the extra velcro strap makes them more annoying to take off than I'd hoped; still quicker than lace-ups, though! The neoprene tongue on these definitely increases tactile comfort over the Katanas, but also makes them hotter. As a last Katana comparison, the Katanas were pretty nimble in the toe, as far as sensitivity goes, but these feel like they will edge and toe into small pockets better, and once broken in, as I mentioned, are sensitive enough.

I use these shoes everyday and I still love them just as much as the first day I bought them. Go about 1/2 size smaller than your street shoe size because mine seem a little big on me. La Sportiva shoes are durable and have great, sticky rubber. You won't regret buying these!

Sizing:

Feels half size too small

Width:

Feels too wide

Was this a gift?:

No

Bottom LineYes, I would recommend this to a friend

Merchant response: Thanks for you review. We couldn't accept the photo as it can only be one that you took of the product. If you get of you using the product you can resubmit the review!