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How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice

It's no picnic taking a novice unfamiliar with anchor-cleaning protocol to the crags, since you have to climb each route twice: once to set up the rope, a secondtime to clean it. You can get around the problem by threading the anchors and leaving single biners on the bolts as shown. When your green partner reaches the anchor, he simply cleans the carabiners (while you reel in the slack), and lowers.

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