I've long observed a steep drop-off in passionate opinion among New Orleanians when the subject changes from indigenous cuisine to the more generically American kind.

Last week's column about my favorite hamburgers in New Orleans has caused me to believe I've been observing the wrong people.

The story prompted a flood of calls and e-mails bringing my hamburger authority into question.

"There is only one burger in this town that I eat," one wrote, "and that is from Cafe Minh (4139 Canal St., (504) 482-6266)." He acknowledges that the $14 Kobe beef burger isn't cheap, "but, as they say in the burger world, you get what you pay less for."

"You must not be a native of New Orleans," wrote another. "The best hamburger in the city is at Russell's Marina Grill (8555 Pontchartrain Blvd., (504) 282-9999). The meat is first class, and cooked to perfection."

"You missed the burger boat" read the subject line of an e-mail from a reader miffed about my exclusion of the burgers at Camellia Grill (626 S. Carrollton Ave., (504) 866-9573).

Several readers offered praise for the hamburgers at the Swamp Room (5216 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, (504) 888-5242) and another reader shared a memory: "Back in the early '90's I think I found the greatest cheeseburger in the universe at the corner of Dauphine and Lesseps at Vaughan's (800 Lesseps St., (504) 947-5562). Sailors from the nearby Navy base at Dauphine would head there at noon and the cheeseburgers were awesome, hot, large, dressed, delicious and served by the prettiest bar maid this side of Venus (or from the other side of Venus for that matter.)"

Unfortunately, those burgers must remain a memory.Vaughan's no longer serves them.

Brett Anderson writes about restaurants. He can be reached at banderson@timespicayune.com or at (504) 826-3353.