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Photo: Lauren Barrett

Empire Biscuit

198 Ave. A (bet. 12th and 13th Sts.)

Manhattan, NY 10009

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Behind this modern pinewood-and-glass exterior is a smart little bakery concentrating on the biscuit, a Southern staple to be enjoyed simply with butter, slathered with redeye gravy or dressed up with pimento cheese and red pepper & jalapeno jelly. The eatery has a few communal tables along with counter seating, and partners Jonathan Price and Yonadav Tsuna keep it running 24/7—after all, when isn't it a good time for a biscuit? At breakfast you can get it with egg and ham smoked in the venue's backyard, at lunch with spiced fried chicken and at night with bacon and cracklin' butter to soak up whatever you've been drinking. There are two styles of dough, one all butter and the other a country-style version woven with lard; both are flaky and crumbly. The (changing) list of spreads, butters, jams and jellies, not to mention meat and cheese options, makes for endless combinations.