The cuisines of the Orient seem to be losing some of their individual identity, at least as they're being interpreted here in Western Massachusetts. Eateries no longer label themselves as "Chinese" or "Thai," instead opting to span several traditions by way of an "Asian" designation.

Tao's Asian Cuisine, a restaurant that opened in East Longmeadow this summer, is an adherent of this fusion philosophy.

However, the establishment also maintains a sushi bar which assembles rice-and-raw-fish favorites, either a la carte or as part of assortments like the Sushi & Sashimi for One ($23.95).

Japanese culinary traditions are further reflected in offerings that include Tofu Yaki Udon ($8.95), Beef Teriyaki ($14.95), and Shrimp Tempura ($14.95).

Though some Oriental eateries seem to skimp on quality in order to keep prices low, our experience suggests that's not the case with Tao's kitchen, since "fresh-tasting" and "carefully prepared" were adjectives that applied to all we ordered.

The restaurant's Wonton Soup ($1.75) was an example of this. Based on a savory chicken broth, the soup's wontons were tender but not mushy; green onions and bits of kombu (kelp) added color and texture.

House Special Fried Rice ($8.25) was equally to our liking, with plenty of chicken, red-cooked pork, and shrimp playing roles in the dish. Lightly flavored with soy sauce and employing bean sprouts and green peas for color and crunch, the rice was, indeed, "special."

In response, no doubt, to Thai food's growing popularity, several Southeast Asian curries and "pad" dishes are also available at Tao's.

Though labeled as "hot," the Chicken Pad Thai ($10.95) was actually quite tame. Savory-sweet, with plenty of breast meat and sliced shiitake mushrooms, the dish was likeable enough, although rice noodles would have been more authentic than the fettuccine actually used.

We found our choice satisfying although it lacked some of the complexity that makes Thai cooking special.

Tao's is licensed for the sale of wine and stocks a small selection of each as well as several varieties of sake. Hot tea will also be served on request.

As is typical in Asian restaurants, dessert options are limited.

Fried Bananas ($3.00), the sweet finale we chose, featured chunks of ripe banana in a shatteringly delicate shell of tempura batter. Sweet, slightly crunchy, and praiseworthy, we agreed.

At lunch, Tao's Asian Cuisine promotes an assortment of lunch specials that draw from the dinner agenda. These include choices such as Pork with Black Bean Sauce ($6.50), Shredded Beef Szechuan Style ($6.95), and a Sushi Luncheon Combination ($9.50).

The Shrimp Tempura Lunch Box ($8.95) we sat down to one weekday was quite a feast, starting with a hearty miso soup and a simple but fresh green salad.

Two giant tempura shrimp, their panko crust delicate and crunchy, headlined the presentation, where they shared plate real estate with slices of yam, daikon, and eggplant, each also enrobed in a gossamer tempura crust.

The bento box also included shumai dumplings, pieces of California roll, and white rice.

Tao's Asian Cuisine, which occupies a storefront that's previously housed restaurant operations, has been completely renewed in a style that tastefully and comfortably references traditional Japanese interior design.