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New filter,ammonia/NO2/NO3 rising!

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Just switched from a HOB filter to a canister. I forgot to put old filter media in. about 30 hrs later i put the old filter media in the canister(they were still in a bucket of water). I always had 0 ammonia/NO2 and very low NO3. NOW i have .50 ammonia, .50 NO2, 60 PPM. I am doing 1-2 30-40% water changes a day now to keep them down . I just put in Fluval Carbon/ammonia remover(does not seem to help). PH has stayed the same.

Fish seem to behaving normal other then my blue gourami who has been at the top of the tank in the corner.

I was told my tank is cycling again... Best thing I should do at the moment? (I don't have another tank for them atm)

One of the best things you can do is to check your parameters daily and complete a large enough water change to keep your ammonia and/or nitrites at 0.25ppm or less and the nitrates at 20ppm or less. Your current situation is a lot like cycling with fish

As your levels are higher than that right now, I would suggest a 75% water change as soon as you can. You need to bring those levels down. Check the parameters daily until your remaining bacteria has a chance to catch up

Edit: I forgot to mention, make sure the return line from your canister filter is creating good water movement at the surface of the water. This will help to maintain the oxygen levels in your water

Last edited by Cliff; 10-06-2013 at 08:11 PM.

If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease."Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony CalfoFishless CycleCycling with FishMarine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

It depends upon how long it takes for an adequate amount of bacteria to grow in your filter - once your ammonia drops to 0 on its own and stays there, with 0 nitrites & 20ppm or less nitrates, you will be done and your fish will hopefully be happier.

I will assume this is a fairly new tank, or this would never have happened (or shouldn't have). Some live plants, especially floating, will help.

The ammonia "remover" probably works by changing harmful ammonia into harmless ammonium. Most test kits will show ammonia and ammonia the same, as "ammonia." So that in itself is probably not a problem. Nitrite though is serious if it is above zero.

Another help is to use a conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and nitrite during this time. Those that do are Prime by Seachem, Ultimate (forgotten who makes this), and AmQuel by Kordon. There are others that will deal with ammonia but not nitrite, though there might be others that handle nitrite, unknown to me.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

Yeah it is still a new tank. It has been about 4 months after the cycle.
I will get the Prime by Seachem. I have been using API Stress Coat+ .

The ammonia remover is "Fluval Zeo-Carb, 150 Gram, 3-Pack Nylon Bags". I'm assuming I need to remove these from the canister once I get prime Seachem because of the carbon?.

Water specs NOW ~
NO2 - 0 ~Ammonia - .25 ~NO3 5.0 PPM

The Zeo-Carb is a combination of carbon and zeolite, both of which adsorb substances. Zeolite adsorbs ammonia, but only up to a point and that is when it is exhausted. I expect it will say in the instructions ho long it lasts. Carbon can release what it adsorbs back into the water when it is exhausted; I do not know if zeolite does this or not.

No, you do not need to remove them if using Prime, or any other conditioner. Prime will detoxify ammonia, nitrite and nitrate by changing ammonia to ammonium (this is permanent), and by binding nitrite and nitrate somehow; this binding only lasts for 36-48 hours, after which according to Seachem the nitrite or nitrate if present will revert to being toxic. Which is why we all recommend daily or alternate day water changes using Prime to deal with cycling issues.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]