Behind a closed door in a ski lodge cafeteria, investigators have examined the
clues since the two and their climbing partner went missing Friday.

They've scrutinized photos taken by one climber at several points along the
route as well as aerial images shot Sunday and Monday. They've interviewed
friends and family of the trio. They've compared items found
near one climber's body with items seen in the photos. And they know what killed him.

"We're all sitting around going, 'What about this? What about that?'" said Monty
Smith, vice president of Portland Mountain Rescue, the volunteer organization
that has supplied climbers to assist the Clackamas County Sheriff's Office.

Despite all of the clues, the case remained unsolved Monday and two climbers
remained on the mountain for what would be their fourth night in subfreezing
temperatures.

"Why we've not found any trace of the other people is really confusing," Smith said.

Monday, the 11,239-foot-high mountain, though unexpectedly welcoming, offered no
more information on the missing climbers. Searchers feared a winter storm
expected overnight would shroud any other clues of what has become of them.

Luke Gullberg, 26, of Des Moines, Wash.; Katie Nolan, 29, of Southeast Portland;
and Anthony Vietti, 24, of Longview, Wash., embarked about 1 am Friday on an
expected summit of Mount Hood. The sky was clear and would be most of that day.

There has been conjecture about their intended route, but searchers think they
probably attempted to ascend the technically challenging Reid Headwall.

They didn't return Friday as planned, and a friend notified authorities that
afternoon. Searchers found Gullberg's body about 10 am Saturday along with some
belongings.

Monday, the state medical examiner's office said Gullberg died of hypothermia,
an abnormally low body temperature that leads to confusion, lethargy and, left
untreated, death.

Gullberg survived "a long, slow" fall, the medical examiner's office said.
Rescuers said Gullberg, regarded as the most experienced climber among the
three, was able to walk and crawl several hundred yards before expiring.

"He had minor trauma but nothing lethal," said Dr. Chris Young of the medical
examiner's office.

The finding has not helped solidify theories about the climbers' fates, said
Smith, of Portland Mountain Rescue.

Officials revealed another confusing clue Monday: two of the items found near
Gullberg's body were not his.

A glove and a water bottle are believed to belong to Nolan, said Clackamas
sheriff's Deputy Scott Meyers. He turned over the items to Nolan's family Monday afternoon.

Other items found near Gullberg's body include his helmet, two water bottles and
his climbing harness. Those items have also contributed to the mystery.

Although a fall might have knocked off the helmet and the harness, that appeared
unlikely given the severity of Gullberg's injuries. Also, climbing harnesses are
designed to withstand severe stress and have redundant safety systems to prevent
their removal.

For some reason, Gullberg might have removed the harness. But the last photo on
his camera suggests he probably was wearing it.

He was shown anchored to the snow and ice of the Reid Headwall, apparently with
two snow screws, Smith said. A rope led from the anchors to Gullberg and
probably was secured to his harness.

"It's another part of the mystery," said Smith, who also is a climb leader with
Mazamas, a Portland-based climbing club.

A 1.5-hour helicopter flight at various points on the mountain also did not
provide clarity Monday.

Earlier in the day, it appeared the flight would not take place as strong winds
were forecast. But the winds remained unexpectedly calm, and the Oregon National
Guard UH-60 Black Hawk took off from a parking lot near Timberline Lodge, carrying Smith, Bob Alexander of Portland Mountain Rescue
and four members of the Army National Guard, including the pilot and co-pilot.

"None of us saw anything," Smith said.

The helicopter hovered for an extended time over the Reid Glacier and West
Crater Rim, two areas where Nolan and Vietti might have built an emergency snow
cave.

It also descended into Zig Zag Canyon, on the mountain's southwest flank,
traveling about 1,000 feet below Timberline. Searchers thought if the two
climbers had walked out and not followed a path to where they started, they could have ended up in the Zig Zag drainage.

The searchers looked for footprints and signs of clothing but didn't see any,
Smith said.

The unexpectedly clear weather also allowed eight Portland Mountain Rescue
searchers on backcountry skis to cover points on the mountain: Illumination
Saddle and the area below Crater Rim.

While they searched, another team of climbers, from the U.S. Air Force Reserve's
304th Rescue Squadron in Portland, was stationed high on the mountain in case an
emergency evacuation was needed of any of the eight skiers, all members of the
Hood River-based Crag Rats.

No ground search was expected because of high avalanche danger. Skiers did not
attempt to travel onto Reid Glacier, where Gullberg's body was found.

The avalanche threat is expected to worsen today, with more snow accumulation
and more severe winds, said Scott Weishaar, incident meteorologist for the
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. He provided regular weather updates to rescuers at Timberline.

Forecasters said up to two feet of snow could fall on the mountain overnight,
with winds gusts to 60 mph and low temperatures in the teens around 7,000 feet.
Another foot of snow is forecast to fall today with more Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, increasing the avalanche hazard.

Three consecutive days with no trace of the missing climbers as well as the
forecast present a worst-case scenario for rescuers.

Nevertheless, on Monday evening, Steve Rollins of Portland Mountain Rescue, said
the effort was still proceeding as a rescue.

If that status changes, a recovery probably would not take place until early
summer, he said. By then, accumulated snow and ice would have melted and
climbing conditions would be safe.
-- Allan Brettman. Stuart Tomlinson of The Oregonian contributed to this story.

Many of the same expert climbers who searched for the pair last year were among
those who recovered the bodies on Thursday. They said it was a very emotional
day for all of them.

The bodies were found at the 9,700-level of Reid Headwall and it appeared that
the two climbers had fallen down a steep slope. Climbers at the scene Thursday
said the two were still roped together and located only about two feet apart.

"When we went back up... the warming we had this week had melted more of the
snow and we could see we had both remains there," said Bob Brownback with
Portland Mountain Rescue.

Searchers said that the location of the remains made it likely they were Vietti
and Nolan, who never made it off the mountain from a December, 2009 climb.

The body of their climbing companion, Luke
Gullberg was found last year, but the search was called off before searchers
found Vietti and Nolan.Gullberg, 26, was found at the base of the Reid Glacier at the 9,000-foot
level of Oregon's highest peak, one day after the trio was reported missing.
Rescue teams battled winter storms for five days, searching for Nolan and
Vietti.

Clackamas County detective Jim Strovink said the recovery effort was highly
technical and challenging.

Two still missing from 2006 climbIn December 2006, Kelly James, Brian Hall and Jerry "Niko" Cooke died after
deciding to continue their attempt to reach the summit even as a winter storm
packing wind gusts up to 130 mph began to move in.

Stranded in a storm, James made a cell phone call to his wife but harsh weather
thwarted searchers efforts to reach him. James' body was found in a snow cave
but the bodies of his climb partners were never found.

Trip Report:
We started around 2:00 a.m. and reached the top of Palmer before sunrise. My
partner, Ryan, was cold so I dug small snow cave and we sat waiting for the
weather to clear. To some surprise, the sunrise offered clear skies with decent wind conditions (15 mph sustained, and up to 40 mph
gusts). It was cold but very ideal for a Reid climb, or any climb. On the top of
Palmer, my climbing partner and I met up with two other climbers (Matt and Scott) going via the same route. We all decided to team up
and enjoy the company, which definitely made things interesting.

After crossing I-rock ridge, there is a semi-steep, traverse that requires a
straight shaft ice axe for potential self arrest. I could see the crevasses on
Reid Glacier at the bottom. After reaching the bottom of the Reid headwall, the next challenge is to find the best route. It was my intention to
climb straight up the Reid headwall, but my partner convinced me to carry on
toward what is either the left side of Reid or the right side of Leuthold. I know for a fact that we didn't ascend via Leuthold proper, since
this is merely a straightforward slog up a friendly, 50 degree couloir.

The
route we chose was a bit less friendly but fun. It required an ice
axe and at times a second tool. My partner became fatigued early on the
headwall, so I tied his back pack to my body while carrying my own backpack to
give him a rest for about 1,000 feet. He was definitely
reaching his limit. I convinced myself at this point that it would be easier to
ascend than to turn back. He looked in a very bad way.

After climbing the crux
(a 30-40 foot ice run), I was a bit fatigued. But thanks to Scott and his
just-in-time rappel, everything turned out well. From here on out I was very
tired, but not more than one would feel after having dragged an extra 35 pound
bag up snow and ice. Anyway, after the ice crux, we
came to an impasse on Reid. It quickly became evident that our continuation of
this route would result in getting lost and, thus, a forced down climb, which I
do not favor. So, we traversed left until we reached the very
obvious top of Leuthold couloir. My partner carried his bag the rest of the way
up to the summit, and I continued with extreme fatigue due to carrying his bag.

The blue-sky summit was intermittently decorated with
vertical oriented clouds and the warmth of sun. After this, we descended via the
Old Chute with fresh tracks. Everything went without a hitch until my crampon
fell off and I tripped and tore an ankle ligament. A half mile
later, I felt (and maybe heard) the ligament literally snap. Matt ran down to
Timberline and retrieved a Snowcat to take me off Palmer (thanks Matt). I was
unable to walk and had to wear a cast for two weeks. Other
than this silly incident, it was a very memorable climb. Watch out for the ice
on Reid; it requires one or possibly two ice tools, a rope, and good judgment.

Note: this is the first time I watched the sun set twice in one moment. It set
in the clouds; the clouds departed, and it set again. Incredible day.

Two liters water
Ice axe
Ice tool
30 meter rope
Snow pickets (didn't use)
GPS (activated in case of white out)
Crampons
Sunglasses
All the other accoutrements one would expect for a fun winter climb.

Approach Notes:
Although labeled a Class II climb, Reid definitely exhibited Class III
characteristics. Just a note to those who might assume this is just an 'easy'
climb. I think it changes to a Class II climb as more snow builds up over
the ice during the winter. Leuthold, however, is very obviously just a steep
Couloir.

Map produced from USGS Quad topographic data base by My TOPO's
Terrain Navigator Pro. Waypoints by Robert Speik.
Note: The UTM Grid (NAD27) is included on the printed map. Waypoints can be
input on the computer at home and downloaded to each climbers' GPS receiver.

What can climbers learn from this tragic event?

A formal Report to the American Alpine Club
was published in the 63rd Annual Report on "Accidents in North American
Mountaineering" in 2010. A more detailed Final Report will follow in 2011.

Rescuers now believe that Gullberg, Vietti and Nolan fell,
roped together, 300 to 500 vertical feet down a steep gully, described as an
"ice gully" in late August, 2010, and likely filled with early winter snow in
December, 2009. Experience tells us that the long fatal fall was likely due
to an unconsolidated snow avalanche.

It is clear the climbers had abandoned their
summit attempt, perhaps because they were behind schedule and had lost their
planned route in the maze of ridges and gullies of the Leuthold and Reid
Glaciers which led to the easier slopes leading to the summit.

They had secured their short ice tools to
their packs before starting to descend the gully to the south of the Leuthold
"hourglass" where their catastrophic fall occurred.

Videos with sound show that they are not
hypothermic and not distressed, but were in good spirits. Reportedly, a
video with sound recorded just before the fall shows Nolan in the gully belayed
by Vietti from a flat area at the top of the chute. Nolan slipped and was caught
by Vietti, laughing and thanking him for "saving her life". All of the climbers
wore helmets and were dressed for the conditions on that very cold winter day.
Each of the three climbers carried day packs, reportedly with gear appropriate
for the weather and the summit climb that day.

Nolan and Vietti died covered in snow, where they landed at the foot of
the ice gully, just two feet apart.
Their packs with extra clothing and a camera and cell phone were unopened.
Gullberg, appropriately the upper climber, caught a crampon in the fall. We
understand that he came to rest beyond his companions and the snow debris, tied
in at the end of the climbing rope. He may have lain unconscious in the snow for some time
and become hypothermic. His companions could not be seen. He untied from the
rope. He left his pack and made his way perhaps 1,000 feet down the glacier snow
field toward Illumination Rock and the saddle to the ski slopes of the basic
Mount Hood south side route, collapsed in the snow and died from hypothermia. Katie Nolan and Antony Vietti
also died of hypothermia, according to the Medical Examiner. None of the climber's injuries, including
broken bones, were in themselves life threatening according the the Medical
Examiner, however Nolan and Vietti
appeared to have died precisely the way they came to rest at the foot of the gully. It is clear no effort was made to open packs, put on extra clothing,
phone 911, "dig a snow cave" or to shelter in any way. Experience
tells us Katie and Antony were covered with avalanched snow.

Luke Gullberg, "lightly clad", succumbed to hypothermia according the the Medical Examiner in 2009.
Loose items found above him, including a glove and water bottle belonging to
Nolan, appear to have slid down the snow slope of the Reid glacier from the foot
of the ice gully. Gullberg had left his pack unopened, where he had untied from
the rope, near his companions. He had removed his helmet and harness, a few
feet from where he died in the snow. One of his crampons appeared to have been
wrenched from his boot.

Were each of the three climbers physically Prepared for this hard climb?Luke Gullberg and Antony Vietti, on their two
cameras, took many digital photos and filmed short videos with sound, beginning
at the parking lot and ending at the top of the ice gully, just before the fatal
fall. They started from Timberline Lodge about 2 AM and the accident occurred
after perhaps twelve hours of hard climbing above 9,500 feet. Videos with sound
show that they are not hypothermic and not distressed, but were in good spirits.Experience tells me that the answers to this question is yes.
Each of the three climbers carried day packs, reportedly with gear appropriate
for the weather and the summit climb that day.

Were the three climbers fully Prepared for the
technical steep snow and ice climbing required by this route on a very cold day in
December. Seemingly, the answer is no. As an example, Search and Rescue veterans
noted from photographs, that on one
steep snow slope early in the climb, Nolan was first on the rope, Vietti second
and Gullberg last, not the traditional snow climbing order where the strongest
climber is at the top, better able to hold a slip before it might become a fall. Further, the rope was not shortened by coils secured on
the first and last climber, but draped in large loops between climbers creating
a serious danger of shock loading if any of the three came loose from the snow.
Other photos show Nolan, front pointing a steep hard snow slope in crampons,
resting with her knees on the snow and hands off the ice axes with a large loop
of the climbing rope below her, (i.e. slack to the second) a dangerous
position.

A friend wrote the following about Luke Gullberg:
"Climbing was what initially drew Luke and I together, and a deep friendship
blossomed from it. After four years in the military, I wondered how Luke and I
would connect again. He was a talented English major and I was a veteran Jarhead
just readjusting to civilian life. I'm not sure whose idea it was, but we two
made plans to climb Mt Rainier during our first summer back together. We had a
blast and fell hook, line and sinker! We went on to climb many other peaks
together, often via challenging (for us) routes. Lukey always seemed to draw the
crux pitch, except on Dragontail Peak's Northeast Couloir. As I inched my way
upwards, Luke and Dave shouted encouragement and his high praise, though
undeserved, had me beaming like a child opening the perfect Christmas present."

"When I moved away to North Carolina in 2008, Luke continued to hit the hills
with the same fervor, though his focused had changed. Instead of fast and light
climbs up technical routes, Luke began to focus on moderate routes that he could
bring several novice friends up. He led trips up Baker, Hood, Rainier, Stuart
and several smaller Cascades Peaks. Through his patience and determination Luke
introduced several people to the magic of the mountains."
http://cascadeclimbers.com/trip-reports/alpine/alpental-thoughts-of-luke-gullberg-12-30-2009-4593/

Another friend wrote the following about Katie
Nolan: "Her outdoor pursuits — hiking, climbing, backpacking, running in the
Portland Marathon, running in Hood to Coast, bicycling a century ride,
participating in a triathlon — was her way of recharging her batteries, . . . "

Follow-up Report to Mt Hood, Reid Glacier
Headwall Accident on December 11, 2009:On August 26, 2010, several teams from Portland
Mountain Rescue under the control of Clackamas County Sheriff engaged in
recovery operations on the Reid Glacier headwall on the Southwest flank of Mt.
Hood. This was the scene of an accident about 9 months earlier (December 11,
2009) involving three climbers. One body was recovered several days after the
accident, while the remaining two were the basis for the operation. From
numerous clues gathered (including a second camera) and the judgment of a panel
of experienced mountain rescuers, the following scenario is presented as the
most likely sequence of events involving the accident.

On the day of the climb, the properly equipped
party descended from Illumination Saddle to the cross-over on Yokum Ridge on the
approach to the Sandy Glacier Headwall. The view from the ridge may have
revealed the difficulty of their intended route. The party changed their
objective and started a rising traverse back toward the Reid headwall, crossing
Leuthold’s Couloir just below the hourglass. The trio ascended the first
(western) major gully system (Reid Headwall) to about 10,200 feet elevation
where an anchor was placed. The roped party was using front-point techniques
with ice axes and second tools for traction in this 45-50 degree gully. Nolan
suffered a short fall with no apparent physical injury, as she was belayed from
above by Vietti. At this point (about 1200) the party decided to retreat from
the climb, possibly using a snow ramp on easier ground rather than downclimbing
or rappelling the gully. While on or approaching the ramp, one of the climbers
fell, was unable to self-arrest, and pulled the other two climbers off their
stances. The roped party was unable to team-arrest and fell down the slope about
500 feet vertical. There were no anchors placed to protect the team (the only
anchors found were ice screws on the outside of a backpack), nor were the
climbers using second ice tools at the time of the fall (also found fastened to
backpacks). All three climbers suffered non-lethal injuries during the fall (and
all were wearing helmets). Gullberg, the most experienced who was found last
December approximately 500 feet below this accident site, unclipped from the
rope, removed his backpack, and descended for assistance. His actions may have
been influenced by a head injury, as he apparently did not provide any first aid
nor assistance to his injured companions. Inside the backpacks were found full
water bottles, first aid kits, a cell phone, and additional clothing.
Undoubtedly slowed by injuries, Gullberg succumbed to hypothermia on the upper
Reid Glacier.

What lessons can be learned to prevent
repeating such an accident?While the cause of the fall cannot be determined,
mitigation efforts can be identified. When descending or retreating from a climb
on an easier route than the ascent, it is important to maintain vigilance. Even
when terrain becomes non-technical, the surrounding exposure can provide ample
opportunity for injury. If the falling potential of a weak member of the party
is recognized by the leader, a rope is normally used to protect that member. To
protect the other members of the roped team, the leader must consider placing
anchors. Protection afforded by fixed or running belays usually improves the
safety of a roped party. Climbers planning trips in late season should consider
the additional difficulties presented by ice/ glacier routes, sometimes a grade
above their guidebook ratings.--Jeff Sheetz, Portland Mountain Rescue(ANAM requested that a copy of PMR's updated Report be sent for public
information to
www.TraditionalMountaineering.org by Jeff Sheetz. It will not be included in
ANAM 2011)

Portland Mountain Rescue
states their position on the Mt. Hood Locator Beacon

The Reason for this enquiry: A QUOTE FROM 1871
See yonder height! 'Tis far away -- unbidden comes the word "Impossible!"

"Not so," says the mountaineer. "The way is long, I know; its difficult --
it may be dangerous."

"It's possible, I'm sure; I'll seek the way, take counsel of my brother mountaineers,
and find out how they have reached similar heights and learned to avoid the dangers."

He starts (all slumbering down below); the path is slippery - and may be dangerous too.
Caution and perseverance gain the day
-- the height is reached! and those beneath cry, "Incredible! 'Tis superhuman!"

This is a passage we found on page 161 of "Scrambles
Amongst the Alps" by Edward Wymper,
first published in 1871 and reprinted 1981 by Ten Speed Press, Berkley, CA.

THE MISSION of TraditionalMountaineering.org

"To provide information and instruction about
world-wide basic to advanced alpine mountain climbing safety skills and gear, on
and off trail hiking, scrambling and light and fast Leave No Trace backpacking
techniques based on the foundation of an appreciation for the Stewardship of the
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mountaineering adventures."

TraditionalMountaineering is founded on the
premise that "He who knows naught, knows not that he knows naught",
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the un-informed and that these inherent risks can be in part, identified and mitigated by mentoring:
information, training, wonderful gear, and knowledge gained through the
experiences of others.

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snow, rock and ice, technical glacier travel and a little technical rock
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