Breaking In a Variety of Smoking Pipes

I’ve written about new pipe break-in a number of times, but this time I’m not only going to address how to do so, but also that different pipe materials change the break-in procedure. Please remember that the following is just the personal opinion of a delusional mind; your mileage may vary.

Firstly, whether a pipe is pre-carboned or not has no effect on my break-in process. I treat both types the same, and have never had a problem. Secondly, I strongly disagree with using anything to accelerate the build-up of a cake. I do not use honey, saliva, pizza sauce or any other concoction to get the carbon to stick to the chamber. Generally, when something is used to speed up the process, the cake is soft and crumbly, and when it needs to be reamed back, chunks will break off, leaving the chamber walls vulnerable to heat and a possible burnout.

As to my method, it is the simplest procedure you will ever hear- pack the bowl as you normally would, and smoke the pipe. That’s it…period. Why don’t I recommend the half-bowl and a gradual build-up to a full bowl? Because that’s not the way you normally smoke, so why do it? The reason people recommend the half-bowl break-in is so you can smoke to the bottom of the bowl so the heel gets carboned to protect it. Do you usually smoke to the bottom? If so, you can smoke to the bottom with a full bowl, can’t you? If you don’t smoke to the bottom, what do you need the cake to protect against? With a briar, in my opinion, there’s only one break-in rule: Smoke slowly. Keeping the temperature as low as possible during the initial smokes in a new pipe is the real, and only, rule of break-in. I’ve used this method for over 30 years and have never had a problem.

There’s one kind of pipe, though, that requires a different approach. Peterson pipes are usually dip-stained, which means that the chamber has a coating of stain, and that will make break-in a lot more difficult. To solve the problem, take your brand-new Peterson and dampen a paper towel with liquor (just don’t use anything sweet) and wipe out the chamber. Let the pipe sit for at least an hour and repeat the process. I usually do it about four or five times. You’ll notice the stain coming off on the towel, and the pipe should then carbon up the same as a natural-finish pipe.

Meers are even easier to break in than briars because you don’t want to build a cake. After each bowl in a meerschaum, wipe it out with a cloth or paper towel. The reason to avoid a cake is because the expansion of the cake could possibly crack the meerschaum. If you include the coloring process as being part of break-in, I would just smoke the pipe normally and handle the pipe by the stem (to avoid having your fingerprints visible). If you want to accelerate the coloring, just blow the smoke onto the pipe as you smoke it.

Breaking In a Pipe made from Synthetics

Pipes made of synthetic materials (The Pipe, some Yello-Bole and Medico pipes) don’t really break in, per se (even if the Yello-Boles do capture some ash and appear to cake up), so no special steps are required.

Breaking In Pipes Carved from Other Woods

There are a number of pipes made of fruit woods (lemon, olive, pear, cherry, apricot among others). I use the same break-in method as I do for briars, but I try to keep the temperature even lower, if possible, as some of them are not quite as heat-resistant as briar.

Cobs don’t break-in, really, they just become seasoned and will taste better after a few bowls. Although it is possible to build a cake in a cob, it’s very difficult, and the pipe will eventually burn out or fall apart, so it’s an effort in futility.

These are my “rules” for new pipe break-in. If you have a question, just leave a comment and I’ll address it. Thanks for reading.

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Russ Ouellette is the blender/creator of the Hearth & Home series of tobaccos for www.pipesandcigars.com in Bethlehem, PA. He has been a pipe smoker and blender for over 30 years, and enjoys feedback from the pipe smoking public. You can reach Russ at russo@pipesandcigars.com or by calling 1-800-494-9144.

Well put Russ, it’s about time someone says it in less than 20 pages, I, like you just monitor temps for first dozen or so smokes, then I smoke it, when I get a cake of desired thickness I will start running dry pipe cleaner folded in half over finger and take it around bowl a few times after smoking, saves from having to ream ass much and tends to make for a more even cake. Thanks Russ, nicely done.

Thank you Russ for all the info! As a pipe making artist, I have tried different pipes and could not determine with which pipe the smoking experience was better! I guess that as long as what you smoke is good any pipe would do the work!

Finally someone has same views about breaking in Briar pipes.Been smoking since mid 80′s found out after couple years that this half bowl metod is for some but not for me.About Petersons pipes…bought 6 months ago 2 Arans…another one was quite easy to break in but the another took me almost 5 months to break.Used same method of puffing,same tobacco …is there big difference in grain or quality of the Briar even the pipes are just the same?

Petersons can be notoriously hard to break in. I think the reason for that is that they dip stain their stummels, so the stain might be sealing the wood in the chamber, to a degree. The reason the two pipes might break in differently could be that one pipe took the stain better than the other.

Thanks Russ for replaying for my question concerning Pete´s.I bought a 3 moths ago a System pipe and it was quite easy to break in.Absolutely amazing pipe add to my collection and smoking my favourite english blends is rewarding experience …Oh yes,before my in-laws are coming one thing that I’ve been wondering.I have 2 pre carbon pipes.One Big Ben and another a Stanwell…(prefer bare bowls)I noticed that you could smoke two bowls per day,one in the morn and another in evening.Time difference between smokes 12-13 hours without damaging the quality grain Briar.Ta again and have a pleasant weekend.

A hearty Thank You! from myself as well Russ. I’ve been a pipe smoker for 36 years now and have never had any problems breaking in a new briar. People just love to over-analyze things sometimes, making simple tasks complicated. I agree with the keeping the temp. down the first few smokes, but other than that…just smoke it!

Something else I just remembered… I had an interesting conversation with the tobacconist from a local b&m shop. He told me that he has customers come in and buy 4 or 5 cobs at a time, smoke them 5 or 6 times and then discard them because they want the sweetness from a new cob. I was flabbergasted! “But they’re taking a very economical product and making it very uneconomical” I told him. He said, “so you use it for a smoking vessel”. “Yes sir, that’s what they are!” Amazing.

Cobs an effort in futility indeed! Some of my cobs are 30 years old and have been reamed dozens of times. Maintenance? Well yeah, they have to be “fixed” from time to time and I buy my stems by the dozen but I’ve got $400.00 pipes that don’t give me one penny more in enjoyment.
If somebody made those fancy leather and silk cases like my real Meer’s come in that fit Mo Meer’s I’d buy them just to bury my “retired” cobs in.
Makes wonder if you really know as much about pipes as I’ve thought over the years or if you just read a lot.
Don L. Johnson
PS: I’m really glad you do what you do, anyway.

I’ve been a pipe smokers for almost 40 years, so I don’t just get my info from reading. You obviously are a slow and patient smoker to be able to get a cob to deliver that many years of service. Most pipe smokers don’t have that level of easy puffing. I rarely get more than a couple of years out of a cob, but then I use them for testing and often get so intent on a new blend that I don’t puff as easily as I should. Congrats on being one of the patient few.

I have smoked briars for over 50 years, never a cob. I know that they are often used for making a “clean” flavor and note test of toby, but can you tell me what the “smoking” value of them as a regular pipe in one’s collection, IF ANY? For the heck of it, I threw in 2 Missouris on my last order from you for no particular reason, and just to see what they are like. I am curious about what avid cob smokers see in them and figured you might know. By the way…I am liking your Pirate’s Cove toby I got recently. Thanks,

I’m glad you’re enjoying Pirate’s Cove. Thanks for your support.
As to cobs – the main advantages (besides low cost) are that they’re lightweight, easy to clench (because of the soft stems) and they add a bit of sweetness to the smoke. Corn is naturally sugary, so there’s sugar in the cob and the sweetness comes through when smoked. This is why they work so well with Burley blends, which have a bit of sourness to them.