When a celebrity — or in this case, a celebrity stylist — starts a fashion brand, they’re usually met with claims of self-indulgence. Well, Rachel Zoe couldn’t escape her share of those criticisms, but for fall 2016, she ran with it. Instead of creating a collection inspired by an artist, a musician or a specific muse, she decided to take a look in her own closet and, we presume, the mirror and craft a collection that was just the things that she wanted to wear. Simply put, she was filling holes in her wardrobe and giving herself an excuse to offer up the pieces she’s been lusting after for years.

The show opened with a three-piece leather suit. Opulent? Yes. Necessary? No, but would anyone really say no? The mood was set with that suit, which was 100% Zoe-brand glam and still completely settled in fashion’s never-ending obsession with the ’70s. The silhouette was classic and current and we could totally see a Hollywood ingenue wearing it on the red carpet. The looks that followed stayed in step with the feel of that stunning opener, mixing the ’30s influence of Marlene Dietrich and the glamour of the ’90s supermodels.

In usual Zoe fashion, there was plenty of luxe fur and boho detailing, but even everyday pieces such as fisherman’s sweaters and button-down oxfords got a glam makeover with the addition of pearls, metallic fringe, and lace. There was also a bigger emphasis on day dressing, with separates made a little more special with the addition of marbled jacquard and men’s suiting fabrics (in non-leather options). For evening, the collection veered a little safe, with slip dresses, lacy shift and slinky options, but the real standouts were velvet suiting and silky blouses. Bianca Jagger will be a muse to Zoe no matter the season, and though some may see it as staid, sometimes, the ’70s glam that is Zoe’s signature — in her personal style and her line — is exactly what her customer is looking for.