Overview

Replace damaged wood with this epoxy putty that can be molded, carved, and sanded  plus sawed, nailed, machined, or painted! SculpWood is a 2-component, solvent free, kneadable epoxy resin product. It is moldable, carvable, lightweight, strong, and exhibits excellent adhesion to a variety of substrates. It is easily sanded and will accept paint, screws and nails. It is most commonly used in conjunction with Rot Fix, a low viscosity wood sealer and consolidant. Recommended for replacing missing sections of windowsills, frames and furniture or for adding new sections to existing structures.

Have used this on painted and stained projects with great success. The only comment is to make sure you prime it well before your top coat to avoid a chance of seeing an outline where the product is exposed. Stain takes okay to this but gel is better for obvious reasons.

Have used this on painted and stained projects with great success. The only comment is to make sure you prime it well before your top coat to avoid a chance of seeing an outline where the product is exposed. Stain takes okay to this but gel is better for obvious reasons.

BEST ANSWER:Yes, be sure that the crack is filled completely. It is very important if you are turning this project. Be sure and let it fully cure and I even let it set another day. It works great, sands smooth and stays put.

BEST ANSWER:Yes, be sure that the crack is filled completely. It is very important if you are turning this project. Be sure and let it fully cure and I even let it set another day. It works great, sands smooth and stays put.

BEST ANSWER:The directions give the setting time as 4 hours, and I suppose that is a good time. However, I'm more inclined to let glues and epoxies set over-night. As an epoxy, so it generates heat in the setting process, and the heat probably helps it set faster. All that said, 4 hours is probably a workable time. I just believe in taking more time than that.

I used Sculpwood to repair areas in a very OLD dresser that was donated to a disabled friend. The repairs were to the veneer where the glue had let go and the veneer was lifting away. Neither I nor my friend had the funds or time to remove and replace all of it. I was very impressed with the way this product soaked into all surrounding wood almost on contact so that it became not only a smoothing filler, but also a glue to close and hold the damaged veneer edges down to the wood.

After letting it set a while, I applied two coats of primer toned to the final color, then painted it a rich black.

BTW, Sculpwood epoxy is a two-part product, as are all epoxies. Both parts are putty compounds in small jars. You mix it by kneading it with safety-clad hands; nitrile painter's gloves in my case.

BEST ANSWER:The directions give the setting time as 4 hours, and I suppose that is a good time. However, I'm more inclined to let glues and epoxies set over-night. As an epoxy, so it generates heat in the setting process, and the heat probably helps it set faster. All that said, 4 hours is probably a workable time. I just believe in taking more time than that.

I used Sculpwood to repair areas in a very OLD dresser that was donated to a disabled friend. The repairs were to the veneer where the glue had let go and the veneer was lifting away. Neither I nor my friend had the funds or time to remove and replace all of it. I was very impressed with the way this product soaked into all surrounding wood almost on contact so that it became not only a smoothing filler, but also a glue to close and hold the damaged veneer edges down to the wood.

After letting it set a while, I applied two coats of primer toned to the final color, then painted it a rich black.

BTW, Sculpwood epoxy is a two-part product, as are all epoxies. Both parts are putty compounds in small jars. You mix it by kneading it with safety-clad hands; nitrile painter's gloves in my case.

BEST ANSWER:Not likely. The purpose of this epoxy compound is wood repair. I used it for antique barrister shelves and it worked very well. I haven't tried it on metal, but it is oily, which tells me as an engineer that it will not adhere well to a non-porous surface well, especially if the surface is painted.

BEST ANSWER:Not likely. The purpose of this epoxy compound is wood repair. I used it for antique barrister shelves and it worked very well. I haven't tried it on metal, but it is oily, which tells me as an engineer that it will not adhere well to a non-porous surface well, especially if the surface is painted.

BEST ANSWER:First, I would want to know how you are using Sculpwood Moldable Epoxy Putty. If this is just a surface application filling a small void with no surrounding surfaces to support it, I would be a bit careful. If you can make sure that complete contact is made with a CLEAN surface, you may be able to discount surrounding support. This is more like a molding clay and not a low viscosity product that sticks un-mercifully to anything it touches. It is not like an auto body epoxy filler, so don't try to work it around on the surface once contact is made. Press it in place and then leave it alone while it sets up.

Rockler does carry Sculpwood paste. It appears to be less viscous.

You might want to lobby Rockler to have them get Minwax HIGH PERFORMANCE WOOD FILLER in stock. I really like it, but haven't been able to find it here. Its viscosity is somewhere between epoxy glue and Sculpwood. (Don't confuse it with Minwax's regular wood filler. The two are not the same.)

If those limitations will not pose a problem, I would give an unqualified "yes" to your question. If they will pose a problem, I would suggest that you look another direction

BEST ANSWER:First, I would want to know how you are using Sculpwood Moldable Epoxy Putty. If this is just a surface application filling a small void with no surrounding surfaces to support it, I would be a bit careful. If you can make sure that complete contact is made with a CLEAN surface, you may be able to discount surrounding support. This is more like a molding clay and not a low viscosity product that sticks un-mercifully to anything it touches. It is not like an auto body epoxy filler, so don't try to work it around on the surface once contact is made. Press it in place and then leave it alone while it sets up.

Rockler does carry Sculpwood paste. It appears to be less viscous.

You might want to lobby Rockler to have them get Minwax HIGH PERFORMANCE WOOD FILLER in stock. I really like it, but haven't been able to find it here. Its viscosity is somewhere between epoxy glue and Sculpwood. (Don't confuse it with Minwax's regular wood filler. The two are not the same.)

If those limitations will not pose a problem, I would give an unqualified "yes" to your question. If they will pose a problem, I would suggest that you look another direction

BEST ANSWER:Yes. Fiberglass is a combination of flexible synthetic cloth (fiberglass or kevlar) and 2 part epoxy. Normal adhesion rules apply; if you're talking cured fiberglass, like a boat or car fender, roughen the surface with rasp or sandpaper to give it something to adhere too. I would not trust applying 2-part epoxy to a polished smooth surface or one where you have not removed any wax or silicone coating.

BEST ANSWER:Yes. Fiberglass is a combination of flexible synthetic cloth (fiberglass or kevlar) and 2 part epoxy. Normal adhesion rules apply; if you're talking cured fiberglass, like a boat or car fender, roughen the surface with rasp or sandpaper to give it something to adhere too. I would not trust applying 2-part epoxy to a polished smooth surface or one where you have not removed any wax or silicone coating.

Reviews

SculptWood was used after I ran out of Smith's Fill-It, to repair rot damage to deck railing members. In both cases, Smith's Epoxy Sealer similar to RotFix was initially applied after the soft wood was removed. SculptWood seems to adhere lightly and is lightweight, with no apparent structural strength. FillIt, on the other hand, is much heavier, with one dense viscous liquid component, adheres tenaciously, adds structural strength to the damaged member, and has a strong dense body when dried. The Sculptwood maintains shape a little better when wet, and would be easier to mould into a complex surface. But when repairing compromised wood, it is strength that is the most important factor, and Sculptwood falls short.

I had to repair the badly chipped and separating veneer on a dresser that was donated to a destitute person. There was no way I intended to pass it on without making it useful and presentable. The Sculpwood Moldable Epoxy Putty allowed me to "level-out" the edges of the surfaces where the veneer was completely gone. Of course, it would not allow me to re-stain the surfaces to their original finish from scores of years ago, but once the dresser was painted, there was absolutely no visible difference from where there was still veneer and where there wasn't. Further, the very edges of the surfaces will stand up for a long time more than if I had teried to do it with wood filler.

This product is very easy to work with and reasonably priced. The cure time is just right, about 4 hours. Since it is not a flash set, the putty gradually hardens. This gives the user plenty of time to work with the shape to get it very close and minimize shaping during finishing. For example, when the putty is 75% hardened, the user can effectively use a Surform to shape broad surfaces quickly.The density of the mixed putty is also excellent. It is easy to hand-mold (with rubber gloves) and blend into the piece to be repaired. It does not sag or slump after placement.

I used it to repair a large bow window and ended up making several repairs including a garage door. It worked great. I thought it was pricey but after using it and seeing how far it goes it was well worth it. The windows and door look new. Easy too work as if it were wood.

I had tried brands in home stores, but none of them were as pliable, easily mixed and easily shaped as this was. I had to repair the entire bottom of a baluster on my porch rail and was able to sculpt it perfectly. You should definitely use the rot stopper first before applying this. This stuff took paint like a champ - only needed one coat. I would rate it six stars if I could.

I used this to repair wood that was rotted and damaged by water. The only cautions I would have is to first of all use their wood sealer before you use this product and secondly make sure your remaining wood is thoroughly dry before applying this product or else your rot will continue to spread out to nearby wood and cause your plug to fallout.

An excellent product that helped me with many home projects. Used to repair rotted plywood floor in my home was first use then many times later Sculpwood was just the answer for a permanent fix to lots of problems.

Used to rebuild a 19th century door frame molding that had been damaged during repair. Sculpwood was easy to apply and set up slowly enough that I was able to shape it to almost the final profile before it set up - and it was easily sanded to achieve the finished result.

I bought the small kit yesterday to build up worn areas on my 1917 carousel horse, and I couldn't be more pleased with the end results. It was easy to work with and had no smell (safe to use indoors.

Things to bear in mind. It may take a few tries to get it to 'stick'. Patience and give it a longer thinning 'footprint' for better results. It was still semi malleable 4 hours later -but that allowed a bit of fine tuning. I have one more piece I want to build with it, but I'm probably going to create a core of real wood glued and set before hand for strength and stability.

I used the product while replacing an entry door lock and deadbolt with several large areas to fill. Later when set, it worked beautifully, drilling chiseling, sanding and even taping. Also it accept paint as though it was the primer.