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Roadster 1.5 vs 2.5

Traded keys with a fellow roadster owner last night for a 20 minute drive. His a roadster 1.5 and my 2.5. Anyone that is thinking of purchasing a roadster 1.5 based upon drivability should consider the 1.5 as a perfect solution. After a nice drive, we both concluded the only difference appeared to be the audio system and the instrument cluster. We both preferred the 1.5 instrument cluster. The 2.5 has a much improved audio. Suspension and acceleration both seem identical. Both cars had the HID headlight upgrade.

The only other difference appeared to be the stick shifter versus buttons which both serve the purpose.

I don't know the differences mechanically, but both are amazing fun vehicles to drive.

Sound deadening, glove compartment, seats, battery cooling and upgradable firmware are better on the 2.5. Also there's no aux 12V battery for the alarm, key fob, etc. on the 1.5V but I'm not sure if that's better for the 2.x since it needs replacing after awhile.

...battery cooling and upgradable firmware are better on the 2.5. Also there's no aux 12V battery for the alarm, key fob, etc. on the 1.5V but I'm not sure if that's better for the 2.x since it needs replacing after awhile.

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Don't you mean PEM cooling, the battery cooling didn't change. As for the 12v battery source its a toss-up. Nice not having a battery to replace every so often, but don't like having to drop the pack when there's an issue with the aux battery system in the 1.5. What's different with the upgradeable firmware? I know there's tire-learning in the 2.x's that the 1.5'x don't have.

Don't you mean PEM cooling, the battery cooling didn't change. As for the 12v battery source its a toss-up. Nice not having a battery to replace every so often, but don't like having to drop the pack when there's an issue with the aux battery system in the 1.5. What's different with the upgradable firmware? I know there's tire-learning in the 2.x's that the 1.5'x don't have.

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Yes sorry PEM cooling - as for the 12V battery. I think their thought was that if the main battery died (out of range) then you should still be able to lock your car, etc. but you're right, I've had that 12V battery die on me several times (in #783) so not sure if that's really better.

...I think their thought was that if the main battery died (out of range) then you should still be able to lock your car...

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I believe it was the government who made this decision happen, that if for whatever reason that the main pack failed to supply power to the 12v aux source that the parking lights, headlights, hazards would still be functional. However what if the separate 12V battery failed? You're still stuck back to the original problem!

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