Nearly raw chickpeas are the key to the toothsome texture of these falafel patties, which are seasoned with ground fenugreek, a spice that lends a pleasant bitterness and delicate sweetness. Tuck the patties into warmed pita bread rounds along with red leaf lettuce, a spoonful of chopped tomatoes, and a drizzle of plain yogurt or a dollop of tahini.

Directions:

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the chickpeas and cook until slightly softened but still very firm in the center, about 10 minutes. Drain the chickpeas and let cool slightly.

In a food processor, combine the chickpeas, onion, garlic and parsley and process until coarsely pureed. Transfer the mixture to a bowl.

Put the fenugreek in a small fry pan over medium-high heat. Shake and toast until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the fenugreek, baking powder, cumin, the 3/4 tsp. salt and the red pepper flakes to the chickpea mixture and stir to combine. Refrigerate until cold, about 1 hour.

Preheat an oven to 200°F.In a large nonstick fry pan over medium-high heat, warm the 1 Tbs. olive oil. With wet hands, shape 1/4-cup portions of the chickpea mixture into patties about 3 inches wide. Place 3 or 4 patties in the pan and cook, turning once, until browned on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer the falafel to a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven. Repeat to cook the remaining patties, adding more olive oil to the pan as needed.