EN Summary: It's not the first time that I'm using bias cut lining strips to bind a pocket facing, yet today I'm presenting a step-by-step photo sequence of how I used this technique to make the mitered corners on the pocket facing of BCN-Unique's Wide Leg Culottes. Keep reading the complete article.

EN: The hong-kong binding technique differs from the “normal” bias binding technique on the underside of the bias binding; with the hong-kong technique the underside of the binding is not turned in; instead the bias tape edge is raw and trimmed close (but not too close) to the second pass of stitching. This finishing is especially useful when bulk is a concern and the underside is not seen, such as in the case of binding over pressed open seams and bound facings. If the underside of the binding should also look neat, then you should use pre-folded bias tape and keep the underside turned in and slightly wider than the top side of the binding. Apart from this, the techniques to miter the corners are very similar when comparing normal binding with hong-kong binding. The following video (in Spanish) was pointed out to me by Paco and demonstrates the mitered corner binding technique using pre-folded bias tape.

EN: The underside of the binding will be stitched down to the pocket
bag on my pocket facing so it’s easier and less bulky to use the hong-kong binding method instead;
I started by cutting 1 1/4” wide true bias strips of lining and then stitched it
to the pocket facing (1/4” away from the edge), right sides together:

EN: I stopped 1/4" away from the corner (it corresponds to the width of the finished binding) and backstitched. You should be precise so either mark the stopping point with a pin or fold the bias tape to the right at an angle exactly at the corner and let the crease be your guide as I did:

EN: Fold the bias tape down, aligning the fold with the edge on the top exactly; start stitching (with backstitch) at the back edge and continue down stopping 1/4" away from the next corner edge; repeat the process around the next corner edge.

EN: This is how it looks on the wrong side (under side); as you can see, in this case the bias cut strip doesn’t fold back on the wrong side. After everything has been secured, it’s a good idea to give it a press to settle the bias tape in place.

EN: This process isn’t at all difficult and, in my opinion, it adds to the quality of the finished garment. I don’t always use this type of finishing, but some garments really deserve it. Happy sewing to all!

EN Summary: After cleaning up the lining on the sleeves and sleeve vent, I couldn’t help myself and finished the cuffs. I recorded a short movie on Instagram which will give you an idea of how it looks :). Then I proceeded with setting in the sleeves by hand. Keep reading to find out about my progress so far!
--- PT Sumário: Depois de fazer o acabamento do forro nas mangas e na abertura dos punhos, não resisti a terminar o acabamento dos punhos. Gravei um vídeo no instagram que vos dará uma ideia de como fica. Depois passei à parte de coser as mangas à jaqueta à mão. Continuem a ler para verem o meu progresso até ao momento!