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If you don't already have a torch, I might suggest In lieu of one of those big torches with a big bottle of gas on it like the pros or a plumber might use, you might consider a little torch called a micro torch from Harbor Freight. 9$. You can't ruin the poly so easily with one of these but you do have to be careful no matter the case.

The little torch runs on butane. Go to the tobacco store and get one of those small containers of butane that's used to refill cigar lighters for 4$ to fill the micro torch with.

This thing is perfect for the DIYer that doesn't need a big torch. It has a fairly small flame that is adjustable and is easy to use. Just keep the flame moving all the time then give the fitting a go. This thing was great for installing my whole system and I didn't melt the pipe, not even once.

Connecting a four-valve manifold of barbed-outlet valves to four separate poly pipes can be a thing more easy to describe than it is to actually accomplish, since the pipes don't always line up neatly, and digging up all the pipes to get more wiggle room might be easier said than done.

haha. You got that right! Ive only built one sprinkler system - mine - and used poly. Built my manifold first, and getting those pipes on those barbs was a real B***h !! Only one of about a million lessons learned! If I ever do another, I would definitely consider a different approach.

Others seem to prefer glue and fitting manifolds vs. "special manifold fittings with built in unions." Why do you prefer the fittings + unions approach?

I prefer doing work that never has to be rebuilt. The people asking questions here possess a different skill set. Note the OP claims of having struggles.

The general idea is to get their systems operational. Connecting a four-valve manifold of barbed-outlet valves to four separate poly pipes can be a thing more easy to describe than it is to actually accomplish, since the pipes don't always line up neatly, and digging up all the pipes to get more wiggle room might be easier said than done.

I've done many valve replacements over the years as a sprinkler tech. I "usually" hook the PVC main pipe up first as it is basically inflexable. Dig down you poly lines about 1 and a half feet to allow for some flex in the pipe. VERY carefully apply heat to the poly pipe and then slide it over the barbed port on the valve. I would recommend using two oetiker clamps per valve fitting in an offset fasion. If you don't have the special oetiker crimp tool hose clamps work, but I'm not a huge fan of them.

Thanks so your saying that a pro would heat the poly?
I have a torch and am fairly handy and can sweat copper etc....for some reason my torch won't run unless almost uprightim going to borrow a buddies torch and try that.
I guess that's what I'm taking away from your reply?