Standard forged AR lowers like the Anderson do not work with the EasyJig but with some modifications to the jig (machining down some minor areas) it will work. The EasyJig has a lot more metal than it needs to work and a standard forged lower only needs some relatively minor material removal. I did it with the 1/4" end mill and a drill press.

Out of curiosity, do any of you know how many lowers can be completed (spraying WD40 on the end mill before each pass as the "coolant/lubricant" if that matters) per end mill? Also, is there a better milling lubricant that could/should be used during the milling portion that some of you could recommend?

Out of curiosity, do any of you know how many lowers can be completed (spraying WD40 on the end mill before each pass as the "coolant/lubricant" if that matters) per end mill? Also, is there a better milling lubricant that could/should be used during the milling portion that some of you could recommend?

Standard forged AR lowers like the Anderson do not work with the EasyJig but with some modifications to the jig (machining down some minor areas) it will work. The EasyJig has a lot more metal than it needs to work and a standard forged lower only needs some relatively minor material removal. I did it with the 1/4" end mill and a drill press.

What portions of the jig did you mill / modify to fit standard receivers? I really like my FDE 80% Lower, but the rear portion of the trigger guard next to the pistol grip could have a bit more of a "rounder" radius for my fingers comfort while holding the rifle one handed.

Don't know about the Colfax, but I've done a TM forged lower with some modifications to the jig. You may need to remove a little bit of jig material in a few spots so that it sits flush against the lower.

What portions of the jig did you mill / modify to fit standard receivers? I really like my FDE 80% Lower, but the rear portion of the trigger guard next to the pistol grip could have a bit more of a "rounder" radius for my fingers comfort while holding the rifle one handed.

Sorry for the long delay but I haven't been back to this thread in a while. As I recall you need to remove material where the bolt catch area hits the jig wall. It's really very minimal and this applies to the other "standard" forged lower designs. 80% Arms could probably work that modification into a future version of the jig with no impact on how it fits their own lowers.

Sorry for the long delay but I haven't been back to this thread in a while. As I recall you need to remove material where the bolt catch area hits the jig wall. It's really very minimal and this applies to the other "standard" forged lower designs. 80% Arms could probably work that modification into a future version of the jig with no impact on how it fits their own lowers.

IF there is a promo code for labor day can someone post it, because I dont do the social media thing..no facebook for me.

Alright, if you insist, but the rest of you should like us on facebook as we do run facebook exclusive promos from time to time . We are doing a 10% off promo on everything site-wide. The code is labor10 valid now though end of labor day.

Alright, if you insist, but the rest of you should like us on facebook as we do run facebook exclusive promos from time to time . We are doing a 10% off promo on everything site-wide. The code is labor10 valid now though end of labor day.

Damn now I dont know if I should just wait. If you guys will be releasing a new easy jig. I planned on buying one now. Wanted to mod it to use with some other lowers I have already and the ones you guys offer.. whats the difference between the easy jigs side walls and the sidd walls for the universal mill/drill press jig..do the sides interchange?

By the way is it possible to get your 80% lowers without the safe and semi markings on them?

Damn now I dont know if I should just wait. If you guys will be releasing a new easy jig. I planned on buying one now. Wanted to mod it to use with some other lowers I have already and the ones you guys offer.. whats the difference between the easy jigs side walls and the sidd walls for the universal mill/drill press jig..do the sides interchange?

By the way is it possible to get your 80% lowers without the safe and semi markings on them?

The drill press jig is a lot different than the easy jig. The side walls are much thinner, whereas the easy jig has very thick side walls to keep the drill bit lined up straight if you are using a hand drill. As far as semi safe markings, at this time we are not able to change that, they all just come off of the machine that way.

Ok, it has been "approximately" 10 days..... Hoping for good news for original easy jig owners.

Keep in mind on 11/24/13 they said their how-to video "Should be out in a couple weeks" and it was posted to YouTube on 2/7/14. In the same post they wrote "We will be offering a prepackaged drill bit / end mill set soon" and that didn't come out until 8/27/14. So don't take 10 days too literally. It will be out when it's out.

Is there any kind of warranty on the new end mill? I am going through one end mill per lower. The shaft of the end mill rubs against the jig wall and eventually breaks no matter how easy you go on it. I have talked to several other people that are having the same problem.

Is there any kind of warranty on the new end mill? I am going through one end mill per lower. The shaft of the end mill rubs against the jig wall and eventually breaks no matter how easy you go on it. I have talked to several other people that are having the same problem.

Where are you getting your end mill from? I am using the recommended 1.5" cutting length 4" model from McMaster Carr and have done (1) 6061 billet, (3) 7075 forged, (1) A380 cast, (2) 7075 billet and (4) polymer lowers without having any end mill trouble.

Where are you getting your end mill from? I am using the recommended 1.5" cutting length 4" model from McMaster Carr and have done (1) 6061 billet, (3) 7075 forged, (1) A380 cast, (2) 7075 billet and (4) polymer lowers without having any end mill trouble.

I noticed you used an actual mill to cut your lowers out. I am using the porter cable router that is recommended by 80% arms. The couple of other guys I spoke with are having the same problems.

The end mill rubs against the jig wall while doing the outer edges and the friction causes the shaft to break after so long.

I don't use a mill to finish the lowers. I use a Porter Cable 690 full size router. I don't even own a mill. I wish!

Yes, the shaft of the end mill will always touch the jig wall as a guide during the process. However friction should not cause the end mill to break. Are you pressing really hard against the jig edge? I just can't imagine why the end mill would be breaking. Where does it break in relation to where it is clamped in the collet of the router? How deep is each of your passes with the router and end mill?

86mcss, can you please call us so we can get a better idea of what is going on to cause your end mill to break? It is a standard carbide end mill and rubbing against the jig wall should definitely not cause it to break. Carbide is a lot harder than anodized aluminum, if anything the anodizing may get worn off the jig at some point but the end mill is not going to wear. We'd like to help troubleshoot whatever is causing this over the phone.

I had my first end mill break, but discovered I was trying to cut too much material with each pass.

That I could see, especially if the user was trying to remove a large vertical amount of material along the edge. For example, if you have the longer cutting length end mill like I do you have to stay away from the edge until the last couple of hash marks. If you then tried to smash through the entire length that you missed it could stress the end mill. Or if the end mill isn't seated correctly in the collet of the router.

Amazing customer service and quick response on a small issue i had with my right side wall and drill bit. They replaced with a brand new one and shipped it out the following day. I am debating as whether i should buy an easy jig .308.