Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea....

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

Approach: Take the left branch in the approach as though going to The Horse, The Tower, et cetera. After about 20 feet, go right on an obvious trail as though going up to The Clipboard. After 50 feet or so, go left around the corner on a ledge and arrive at a pleasant platform beneath the Three Dihedrals, maybe 50 feet short of Curvilinear.

Belay on a great ledge and climb a low-angle slab to a small ledge about 40 feet up (could belay here). Climb a 2-inch crack that angles up to the right and gain a stance at the base of a nice arete. Follow bolts up the arete and face just left of the arete to a 2-bolt anchor with rings at 100 feet. 5 bolts plus gear. Lower off.

Protection

This route has 5 bolts, but requires gear from 1 inch to 3 inches in two or three places. Hint: don't bring a big rack; this isn't El Cap. It is also possible to belay on a good ledge about 40 feet up, which will require a few more pieces in the 1 to 3 inch range.

Some nice moves up the arete and the face. Hardest moves are at the second and third bolts. I used a #2 and #3 Camalot in the crack below the first bolt, and a #.75 Camalot between the third and fourth bolts.

Warning: there is a big loose block above and right of the third bolt. It's ready to go, but there were too many people at Avalon today to trundle it. I will go back there on a weekday and launch it.