i've had a discussion this weekend; are the reserve-toggles realls sewn to the risers?

i sat through my last reserve-repack and i could of SWORN thery were NOT sewn. are they!?

Nope, not on most sport rigs, but some riggers out there may put a pass of seal thread (~4.75lb break) thru the toggle and riser.

It's pretty common on bailout rigs and older rigs though. (lots with rounds as reserves)

interesting, thanks. that would be to avoid a toggle-fire then, right!?

Not necessarily, your V3 should have nice strong velcro on the risers/toggles still. If it's getting worn out to the point you're risking a fire, it should be replaced before it get's repacked.

it is actually that strong that at first i was only able to release one side on my first attempt. not as funny as it sounds when you just cutaway from a spinning main from hell that left you dizzy just seconds before!

i've had a discussion this weekend; are the reserve-toggles realls sewn to the risers?

As mentioned, some older rigs are like this. It's handy for rigs that didn't have keepers on the reserve risers for the 'nose' of the toggle. The seal thread would pass through the nose and into the riser to keep it in place and prevent a premature brake release. Pretty old-school stuff.

it is actually that strong that at first i was only able to release one side on my first attempt. not as funny as it sounds when you just cutaway from a spinning main from hell that left you dizzy just seconds before!

Still should be replaced. IMO using seal thread to tack the toggles to the risers because the velcro is worn out is shotty rigging.

Furthermore I'd be shocked if a 1-2 pass of seal thread would make it that hard of a pull to unstow, makes me wonder what they tacked it with?

I've seen at least a couple Strong Dual Hawks that had the reserve toggles on one side misstowed and it would make for a very hard pull.

it is actually that strong that at first i was only able to release one side on my first attempt. not as funny as it sounds when you just cutaway from a spinning main from hell that left you dizzy just seconds before!

Still should be replaced. IMO using seal thread to tack the toggles to the risers because the velcro is worn out is shotty rigging.

Furthermore I'd be shocked if a 1-2 pass of seal thread would make it that hard of a pull to unstow, makes me wonder what they tacked it with?

I've seen at least a couple Strong Dual Hawks that had the reserve toggles on one side misstowed and it would make for a very hard pull.

wait-wait-wait! the velcro was that strong that i could only release one side at first and then had to pump REALLY hard on the other. i'm not the worlds strongest guy, but i wouldnt call myself weak nonetheless.

again, i was under the impression it wasnt tacked when i've had my first cutaway, and i BET i would of noticed if my rigger did when he repacked. i was asking questions on pretty much EVERYTHING he did.

i've seen and was explained about freestows as well on that session; didnt even knew they existed before that. was probably the most educational hour i've spent talking about gear and reserves specifically.

wait-wait-wait! the velcro was that strong that i could only release one side at first and then had to pump REALLY hard on the other. i'm not the worlds strongest guy, but i wouldnt call myself weak nonetheless.

Sigmas have a pass of seal thread at the link IIRC, to keep the un-cascaded brake lines organized. Not a toggle I know.

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Part of that is because PD 360R steering lines join at the bottom. The other reason is that Sigmas (and Vectors and Strongs) used MIL SPEC L-bar connector links on their reserve risers. If the L-bar links are installed incorrectly, the end cap of the bar can easily snag a steering line. Ergo, why the Sigma manual recommends tying the steering lines with red seal thread.

The original ram air reserves, Safety Flyer, Safety Star and Swift had toggles made with tubular nylon with a 'set' grommet sewn to it for a ring. There was no velcro on the toggle, no toggle hood. Also the original guide rings were 1". After the brakes were set the toggle was tacked with safety thread because there was NOTHING else to hold it in place. i have lots of these toggles floating around the shop.

This practice continued to standardized guide ring placement, smaller guide rings, and modern type toggles. Rigging Innovations used to punch the nose of the toggle with a harness needle so it was easier to put a small needle with the safety thread through the toggle. On other rigs I would simply catch the edge of one layer of the nose.

Some older riggers still do this. While you would notice the rigger doing it you will NOT feel it when releasing your reserve brakes.