Yes, they have pretty paint on most rebuilt starter motors. Some vendors do not install new brushes, bearings, etc., because they only need the starter to make it beyond the warranty period. You said your starter motor was original, so you also know they should last a very long time.

That's why I urged you to:

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplyconnected

... take the internals out of both, then clean up and use the old body with the best parts. It looks harder than it really is....

If the new armature's commutator looks better, use it. I offered pictures of the whole setup but hey, do what you like. I realize you bought a new starter motor but just to make sure, loosen the inspection band and look inside. Only one bolt holds it on. - Dave

Sorry I haven’t been in for a bit as I haven’t felt well enough to come out here and play with the bird. The only reason I was going to just have them replace the 3115 to the 3117 version which they thought they had in stock, and it would go right in and it would be done. I waited a week and he sent me a message that they couldn’t locate them anyplace. So I decided to go to your page and go through the pictures. I currently have both of them apart. What I can’t get out is the brass wires on the inside. The original has a square hole to unscrew and the new one has big Phillips screw but I can’t find anything for he square whole as it is in between both wrench sizes and the screws in the new one won’t budge. I’d like to use them when rebuilding this sobas of now I am stuck

...The original has a square hole to unscrew and the new one has big Phillips screw but I can’t find anything for he square whole as it is in between both wrench sizes and the screws in the new one won’t budge. I’d like to use them when rebuilding this sobas of now I am stuck

I figured that would happen. Some vendors have no idea there is a difference between starter motors because there aren't many Bulldozer engines out there.

Got a grinder? Either a bench grinder or an angle grinder works. Pick up a cheap 1/2" extension and grind two sides down. Yeah, you can grind all four sides but there's no real need. This isn't high tech. These screws are not hardened bolts. The holes they go into aren't hardened either.

Some #3 Phillips screwdrivers have provisions to turn with a wrench just below the handle. That's what I use, with the starter body securely held in my Shop Mate 'horse'. I would use a hammer to shock the screw but I would NOT apply heat. PB Blaster helps as well.

You have everything you need to make a good starter motor. Use your ingenuity and get her done. - Dave

Thanks Dave thatís a good idea. I never would have thought of bringing edges down so they fit. On the screws on the new one I thought about an impact screwdriver. I used to own one I think I will check harbor freight for another one. I might have a set of those screwdrivers I just picked up a set at sears about 6 months back. They have a strange tip on them. Hopefully I will get some work done tomorrow. Happy thanksgiving to you and your family

While putting my starter back together I noticed something. I lined the starters up with the positive bolt in the same direction towards me. I switched just the top plate that clocks it. That top plate is the only thing different, so I will be able to use everything new except I will use the original plate. I have been having a bear of a time getting the brushes in the right place over the shade. If you put the spring on it pushes it right through. If you leave the spring off you canít get in there to put the spring on so I have been trying to leave the spring partly on on the edge. Itís still rough to do. Iíve been trying different ways to try to work with the shaft. Anybody have a less difficult way to do the brushes? I do it for a little bit at a time and stop when I get aggravated so I donít be break the wire leads.

Brushes are identical between both starter motors. Since the 430 starter has the components rotated inside it is important you keep the 430 housing with the same 430 brush holder plate in the rear. They are keyed to align together before the long bolts go in.

Assembly should not be difficult or frustrating. BTW, I seriously doubt any of the housing parts are new because Ford used them since the 1940s. The reason the housing is so heavy is because it actually conducts magnetism through the shoes (beginning at the field windings).

As a side note, look at the brush holders. Two are riveted to the back plate with insulators. The other two are riveted directly to the back plate with no insulators. This is correct. If you need to change a brush holder, simply drill the old rivets out and replace with a good one. If it had insulators, be sure to put them back in. You can use rivets or small screws & nuts but they must be tight. - Dave

While putting my starter back together I noticed something. I lined the starters up with the positive bolt in the same direction towards me. I switched just the top plate that clocks it. That top plate is the only thing different, so I will be able to use everything new except I will use the original plate. I have been having a bear of a time getting the brushes in the right place over the shade. If you put the spring on it pushes it right through. If you leave the spring off you canít get in there to put the spring on so I have been trying to leave the spring partly on on the edge. Itís still rough to do. Iíve been trying different ways to try to work with the shaft. Anybody have a less difficult way to do the brushes? I do it for a little bit at a time and stop when I get aggravated so I donít be break the wire leads.

From my memory (which has been known to be faulty at times!) I used thick thread and the shank of a pop-rivet to hold the spring high enough that it wasn't putting pressure on the brush.
Once the shaft is in place I cut the thread to release the springs.

__________________
A Thunderbirder from the Land of the Long White Cloud.

Make a simple tool out of coat hanger. Bend it into a '7' as shown in this picture:

Notice that I put the wire tool between the pigtails, grab the spring and pull it up. It's that easy.

Insert the brush and ease the spring down onto the center of the brush. You're not done until you grab the pigtails with your wire tool and pull the brush up and down. If any resistance happens get it fixed before you go any further. The brush should slide easily in the holder without getting hung up. This also tests to see if the pigtails are secure and won't come out of their connection. - Dave

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