Hello to all of you. I noticed in yesterday's comments that some of you were having a tough time reading High on LeConte on your mobile devices. We're looking for a fix, but don't have one yet. This is not the easiest place in the world to get tech assistance.

We've enjoyed a nice Thursday so far on top of LeConte, but I hear changes are in the forecast. Wednesday's high and low were 63-43 with no precipitation. The overnight temperature readings from the last three days have been a little unique, as the temperature at observation (6:30 a.m.) has been slightly warmer than the temperature at 11 p.m. the previous night. Typically, we register our coldest temperature of the day during that 5-7 a.m. period.

I mentioned the periodic bear activity nearby the lodge yesterday. Today I'll focus on some smaller animals we've been seeing up top. Something we haven't been seeing much lately are the deer. Perhaps they've headed down for greener pastures. I have seen a rabbit hopping in and out of our grassy spots the last week. Spotting a rabbit is fairly uncommon on top of LeConte. I can only remember seeing about five in my four years up here. In perhaps a related note, we've not seen our on-again, off-again neighbor the weasel in a long while. Maybe the rabbit knows something we don't.

Crew member Matt took a walk down Bullhead Trail the other day and saw some grouse fly out of the trail in front of him. He had an interesting way of describing the sound of their wingbeats -- "like the sound of your own heartbeat in your head." Crew member Pat also saw some sort of hawk harassing a raven a couple of days ago. We see the ravens all the time. They may be one of the smartest animals in all the park.

As the first and second days of October rolled around this year, I couldn't help but remember life on LeConte one year ago. This is the anniversary of the dreaded 2013 federal government shutdown, which locked our doors half of October in the prime of our fall season. We've had lots of guests the last few days say they were planning on coming up to see us this time last year, but were thwarted because of the shutdown. Many of them asked how we dealt with the shutdown here. A few of my remembrances follow (others can't be repeated in front of polite company, but I remember my empty wallet and will be voting in November).

I ended up managing for the transition on Oct. 1 and first eight days or so of the shutdown. The park service, whose employees would also have rather been working, allowed our guests to stay the night of Oct. 1 and then vacate the Great Smoky Mountains National Park on Oct. 2. General manager Tim Line came up and relieved me for the second week until operations resumed. For two or three nights in the beginning some crew members stayed put because no one knew when we'd reopen, and we'd have to move quick when we got the word. No one was getting paid, and the crew can burn through the money fast on hotels and food down in the valley.

Gradually the rest of the crew headed down, and I spent several days up here by myself, the closest thing I've experienced to the LeConte winter caretaker role. At night, I was probably the only human within at least a five-mile radius. That sort of isolation doesn't often exist these days. Even in Antarctica and the wilds of Alaska where I worked, I was usually pretty close to someone.

There wasn't much to do compared to my 18-hour schedule today. I still had to call in the LeConte weather conditions to the park service early every morning and ask if the situation was resolved yet. Every morning I got a bad answer. Legally, even though LeConte is run by a private company operating this concession through a contract with the park service, we couldn't host overnight guests or even sell someone a t-shirt. We could legally leave the pit toilets open and keep the treated water spigot flowing (as a few people managed their way up the mountain on under-the-radar day hikes).

Also, I wasn't even supposed to leave the lodge grounds, as the park was closed and no rangers were on duty if I got hurt and needed to be rescued. I read a lot, sat out on the porch on a beautiful, sunny October Saturday and listened to the Tennessee football game by myself. On a normal October Saturday there would have been hundreds of dayhikers scaling LeConte, but the shutdown was eerie. After all of the nasty weather we'd experienced during that summer, finally fall had broken through in glorious fashion -- and no one else was around to see it at the top of Tennessee. At any rate, those memories have returned this week. Please keep in mind this is not the forum to blame anyone for the shutdown, just a recollection to respond to a question I've received often this week.

As I alluded earlier, we're expecting a rainy Friday followed by colder weather this weekend. Remember, just because it's comfortable in Gatlinburg doesn't mean you'll see anything similar on top of LeConte. When you're preparing for your trip, always bring raingear and plan for a high and low 15-20 degrees lower than in Gatlinburg or Knoxville to be safe. That's not always the case, but it should put you in better stead if weather is snarly on top of the mountain. Happy trails.

The LeConte bear trap at rest, also known as the LeConte SuperMax Detention Facility for unruly guests.

Nice perspective in your photo today, Nathan, with Mt. Leconte in the background. I also enjoyed your narrative on while you were up there aloe during that shutdown; I was very tempted then to sneak into the Park myself for some hiking. Just curious, but that bear trap looks pretty heavy; does it have to be transported by air when moving a bear ? Have a good afternoon.

Reply

High on LeConte

10/2/2014 04:07:25 pm

Doug,

The bear trap has small wheels, so we can move it short distances around the lodge. However, they almost never move a bear. The wildlife rangers will do the workup on site, then wait for the bear to wake up and scare it away when the sedative wears off. The hope is that the bear will give humans a wide berth, and it usually works. Moving a bear up here to another location would be extraordinarily complicated whether it was a carry out or fly off. Thanks for reading.

Nathan

Reply

jeand

10/2/2014 09:04:02 am

A thought on the elevation of Mt LeConte - I am under the impression that Clingmans Dome is highest in the Nat'l park only because of the observation tower built there in the 50s or so. Until that time, as I was growing up we all thought Mt LeConte was highest.. I have no idea what the elevations were reported to be back then but was a little put out when we were told Clingmans Dome was now highest. How dare they make it so that our wonderful LeConte was not the highest anymore. Did not even know Mt Guyot was in the running at that time. But I understand LeConte is still tallest above surrounding terrain.

Hope the bears stay away so they don't have to be put in that big ole cage.

Love your story, Nathan, and great pics!

Reply

tomk in SC

10/2/2014 09:48:50 am

I do not believe the reported height Clingmans Dome includes the tower. That's how I'd stack my chips. Still the lore is why we add rocks to the pile at High Top, to beat the Clingmans at their own game. I've been hiking and stacking for more than 25 years and I don't think my great great nor fair to middling grand children will see HIgh Top eclipse the tower, let alone the base of the tower on CD.
LeConte is still the most prominent and most loved!
Not much chatter on the Clingmans Dome blog. No llamas. No winter caretaker or photos. It's smug and alone. Sad really. Clinging on to its tall claim like a high school quarterback looking back on his record setting year behind his third beer after second shift. It's taller than LeConte. It always will be, we know that it it doesn't matter.

Yes, tomk, I agree that Clingman's Dome does not include the added height of the observation tower. As for the rock pile on Leconte, no, that's simply a fad that took hold at one time or another. I haven't ever added to it myself. The Park Service has new data involving the elevations of the major peaks in the Smokies, but I was told in a telephone conversation that they retain the present and older figures for the time being to avoid confusion I think. Regardless, Mt. Leconte holds the appeal and mystery that all enjoy.

Woody

10/2/2014 10:13:26 am

Ravens are no doubt the most intelligent animals in our Park - including humans.

Reply

Elisabeth

10/2/2014 10:55:22 am

LeConte is indeed the third highest but it is the BEST in this lady's opinion!!! On our recent hike (three days) we hiked over four of the top five peaks, and six of the top ten peaks in the park...including LeConte. It was surely the most incredible summit! smile. You can move the bears before the end of the month when we arrive...please and thank you!

Reply

steve

10/2/2014 11:04:02 am

Height of Clingmans does not include tower, amazing someone would think that!

Reply

Steve

10/2/2014 11:04:39 am

To peak Mt Guyot you have to bushwack off the AT, no trail to the top

Reply

elisabeth

10/3/2014 08:37:30 am

yup, this is true. we looked for a manway in that area but saw none. The peak is just off the AT....so technically we didn't "bag" that one....but came darn close (in an electrical storm to boot!). Looked like there used to be a firetower up there too....just past summit we saw some cement footings.

Reply

Kaye

10/2/2014 02:48:04 pm

I had a hike set for my birthday, 10/2, last year. Drove from West Tennessee with 2 friends and my husband. One friend had always wanted to hike up LeConte. What a disappointment. But did manage to hike Little Greenbrier, slipped in at the gate on the road to Wears Valley. And going to hike up on 10/22. However the friend who wanted to hike for the first time ever last year had back surgery and can't hike this year. Sad for her, but sure looking forward to hiking up to LeConte again. Moving here hopefully next spring and plan on hiking up more than once a year.Hope to see you Allison and Chris this trip since yall are going on to new adventures.

Reply

Sharon S

10/3/2014 05:48:21 am

Experiences on LeConte are already rare, but to be there alone during a beautiful fall season must resemble paradise.

Reply

Tenderfoot

10/3/2014 03:35:24 pm

Great description of what transpired one year ago Nathan. I was blessed to be up there and stayed the night of October 1st. At breakfast on the morning of the 2nd you told us all to be very careful going down because we would not be encountering anyone coming up and the Park Service more than likely would not be available for some time if anyone was injured. Hiked out The Boulevard and when I got to Newfound Gap Parking Area there were rangers trying to empty it and place barricades so no one could drive in. That was a time many of us will not forget......especially on November 4th!

Reply

Leave a Reply.

LeConte Lodge

Welcome to the official blog of LeConte Lodge. We hope you find the information provided here both helpful and enjoyable. Thank you for visiting the site, and we hope to see you on the mountain!