I too going along with what Giant has said have noticed a BIG difference, the only problem though....More go power means at times more gas I think I am going to seafoam it again here soon to clean everything out again. I also did something that I havent said on the board yet because I wanted to see what it did first. I took the last resonator off the car (there went what felt like 80 pds ) It sounded nice and I did notice some power improvements, but the noise at idle was almost unbarable. So I went to Autozone and bought some exhaust pieces for now. It sounds really nice and I still have good power throughout. So now I am going the way of dual tipped exhaust when I get some money again.

I just had another interesting thought. Has anyone else ever noticed a whistling type noise from their plenum area when the rev the engine? I don't have any vacuum leaks, for anyone quick to think that. But I've always noticed this slight whistle. Can even hear it in the car, like this afternoon in the drive up window at the bank around 1200 rpm's maybe? I'm curious to wonder if the slotted design of the pcv valve has any connection to that noise? One sure way I could test that theory out would be to pinch off the pcv hose and try revving the engine, but that ain't happening tonite. We're in the middle of a thrunderstorm and flood warning.

Jeez ! I got a new Intrepid (company car) back in late 2002 and it did this whistling sound intermittently. And when I say whistle, I mean a like a person whistling loudly, one single steady note. You could hear it clear as a bell inside the car. It would suddenly appear and last for several minutes, and then abruptly stop. Completely random. I could never get the sound to appear when I had a dealer tech in the car. It was the damndest thing.

I have 5 Intrepids and I've never heard that in any of the other ones, or in anyone else's Intrepid for that matter.

Froggy, I agree with you on all accounts! Damn good research too, you know your stuff. Makes me proud to be a member!

Thank you for the compliment. A lot of it is knowledge my dad has passed along. And some of it was whatever I've learned over the years and wanted to know about.

Quote:

Originally Posted by giantjd24

Well, after quite a bit of driving since installing the new PCV Valve, I can honestly say I have noticed a difference. Seems to run/idle smoother than before. Accellerates a bit smoother and has a little more umph, but keep in mind I have also had an oil change/engine oil flush since then also. Also cleaned my K&N Filter with the recharge kit. Now the differences are slight, but noticable. I would say Oil Consumption is about the same. Gas milage deinately a tad better. With the prices of gas anyway, I will take what I can get.

Well, you may notice an improvement for several of the other reasons you mention. But depending on how long its been since the pcv valve was last changed, improved idling is not uncommon. One thing to keep in mind, is if the pcv system becomes plugged or otherwise compromised, those vapors build up in the engine. There will definately be drivability issues and eventually the extra pressure will blow out seals and gaskets (hey, its gotta vent somewhere). So for like $3-$5, everyone should make the effort. Its not like rocket science to change either.

Quote:

Originally Posted by giantjd24

And I absolutely agree with you on the PCV Breather/Catch Can. I would surely buy one. Is this something that would be readily available for our cars or would we have to fabricate our own?

Anxious to see how well it would work and the difference it would make with less oil pollution in the air, going into the intake.

I don't know of any "ready made", for these cars anyway. There's been a few threads and stuff on here regarding it though, and I've replied and put some ideas forward out there as well. Its not hard to build one. One common item to use is an air compressor filter that has a clear bowl. The small Campbell Hausfeld ones will run about $15-$20. Plus some extra hose and a few fittings to go from pipe thread (on the filter) to hose barb in order to plumb it in. Oh and some hose clamps, too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by giantjd24

At this point, I recommend the newer PCV Valve over the purolator. I do recommend getting a new hose though. Mine was cracking while pulling it off. May as well do it all at once.

James

Yeah, my hose has a small tear in it where the bend is. I applied RTV to it and let it set up a few hours and then black taped it. Seems to be fine but DC wants about $30 for another. I emailed them to see if just the elbows could be bought separate but they said no, so its the entire thing (the two elbows and the heat exchanger).

LT.Almond, I was just exchanging pm's with DJDiggler regarding his exhaust. He's got a Flowmaster 80 series with dual exits on it. The mufffler's got an outlet one side (driver's) and an inlet and outlet on the other (passenger). Check his sig and pics, I think it looks sweet!

The name's Chris but the step-kids call me something much worse!
Favorite Quote: "A man's got to know his limitations."-Clint Eastwood as "Dirty" Harry Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)
Second favorite quote: "Another day, another drama."-Me (2006)
Third favorite quote: "I live a boring life. Its everyone in it that makes it interesting."-Me (2006)http://www.myspace.com/froggy81500

There is a slightly cheaper alternative for the PCV hose. I know because I bought one today.

The $30 job ($47 in Canada) is the whole assembly with the heat exchanger and all the hoses. But, they still carry the original version without the heat exchanger, and it has exactly the same molded hose for the PCV valve. It was $20 in Canada so probably $10-$15 in the US. Part number is : 04663792-AB

There is a slightly cheaper alternative for the PCV hose. I know because I bought one today.

The $30 job ($47 in Canada) is the whole assembly with the heat exchanger and all the hoses. But, they still carry the original version without the heat exchanger, and it has exactly the same molded hose for the PCV valve. It was $20 in Canada so probably $10-$15 in the US. Part number is : 04663792-AB

I went looking for that one and whatever p/n I found in the how-to's was still almost $30 without the heat exchanger. I'll have to look up your p/n and check it out. My dad grabbed me about a foot of air compressor hose 1/2" ID, which should fit on the heat exchanger but the pcv valve is bigger (5/8" I think) so not sure if it'll work. He got me some real thick hose, too. It like 2 ply, there's a blue outter and black inner. And not only the ID issue, I'm not sure if I'll be able to get it to bend properly. Thanks for the tip on the p/n, I'll check that out later.

Edit. I looked up 4663792AB and it says "hose cylinder head" and is $11.40 (US). the p/n I previously found in the 2002 part number list for it was 4663792AF and is almost $30, so I'm guessing that "F" p/n has the heat exchanger even though the parts diagram doesn't show it. If possible, va3ux, could you post a pic so I know for sure its what I'm looking for. thanks again and a rep to you.

For the hell of it, I tried looking up that p/n while changing the last character (4663792A?). There is no "A" and "B" we already discussed. There is a "C" & "D" but both are superceded with "E". "C" & "D" are about $1 more than "B", and "E" is $26.18, while the others are $11-$12. "F" is about a buck cheaper than "E", there's no "G" and "H" is a buck more than "E". I have no idea what the differences or even what the applications are for each of those p/n's but the big difference in prices from B,C, & D to E,F & H indicates to me that the earlier ones for $11-12 are pre-exchanger and the later ones for $25-27 have it.

The name's Chris but the step-kids call me something much worse!
Favorite Quote: "A man's got to know his limitations."-Clint Eastwood as "Dirty" Harry Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)
Second favorite quote: "Another day, another drama."-Me (2006)
Third favorite quote: "I live a boring life. Its everyone in it that makes it interesting."-Me (2006)http://www.myspace.com/froggy81500

Well, I made the mistake of looking at my PCV valve hose wrong and it ripped last night. I'm obviously exaggerating, but it was very soft and ripped almost immediately.

So here I sit with the new PCV valve, but no hose. I thought about getting that part number mentioned earlier, but this is for a '98 without a heat exchanger. Will that hose be too short? Any ideas for alternatives?

So here I sit with the new PCV valve, but no hose. I thought about getting that part number mentioned earlier, but this is for a '98 without a heat exchanger. Will that hose be too short? Any ideas for alternatives?

I'm a little lost by your post. Is it a '98 you have? From what I can tell the two rubber elbows are the same with or without the heat exchanger. If you don't have the heat exchanger, its highly recommended that you retro fit one onto your car. As far as hooking up the pcv with the heat exchanger, its no harder than removing the old pcv line and putting the heat exchanger-equipped one in its place. The harder (well not really) part is plumbing the rest of it into the heater hose. There's a small diameter hose that comes up from a tee behind the motor to the overflow tank on the left fender. The heat exchanger gets spliced into that hose. Search my name and also the name Peva. He and I had a very good and informative chat about this. His '99 corde didn't have the heat exchanger so he had no idea what I was talking about when I asked what the hell it was. I posted pics and he immediately knew what it was supposed to do. He also retrofitted it to his '99 very easily. If I come across the thread, I'll post it.

The name's Chris but the step-kids call me something much worse!
Favorite Quote: "A man's got to know his limitations."-Clint Eastwood as "Dirty" Harry Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)
Second favorite quote: "Another day, another drama."-Me (2006)
Third favorite quote: "I live a boring life. Its everyone in it that makes it interesting."-Me (2006)http://www.myspace.com/froggy81500

It is a '98. I don't have the heat exchanger (it's my wife's car) from what I can tell. I'm looking at your post with the PCV valve and heat exchanger picture. Mine just has one continuous piece of hose. I'll take a look for the part number and get one ordered.

I'll read the links below for additional info. Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by froggy81500

I'm a little lost by your post. Is it a '98 you have? From what I can tell the two rubber elbows are the same with or without the heat exchanger. If you don't have the heat exchanger, its highly recommended that you retro fit one onto your car. As far as hooking up the pcv with the heat exchanger, its no harder than removing the old pcv line and putting the heat exchanger-equipped one in its place. The harder (well not really) part is plumbing the rest of it into the heater hose. There's a small diameter hose that comes up from a tee behind the motor to the overflow tank on the left fender. The heat exchanger gets spliced into that hose. Search my name and also the name Peva. He and I had a very good and informative chat about this. His '99 corde didn't have the heat exchanger so he had no idea what I was talking about when I asked what the hell it was. I posted pics and he immediately knew what it was supposed to do. He also retrofitted it to his '99 very easily. If I come across the thread, I'll post it.

I still haven't gotten around to stopping by a DC dealer to get the new style valve. I was just on newmoparparts.com and figured I'd just order it. When I search for a pcv valve for my year (2001) I find one for 98-01 years list price $6.56

If I look for a 2002 I find one for 02-04 years list price $6.76

Now, if I search for a 2003 Sebring (since the later years have the 2.7) I find this
03-05 (w/2.7) list price $7.48

None of those searches by vehicle show p/n's.

Now if I search by p/n using that new pcv # shown above (5175350AA) it comes up as a pcv valve but doesn't list which vehicles BUT the interesting thing is its exactly the same price as the one listed for the Sebring (and Stratus) at $7.48. Interesting.

Now if I search on partsamerica for a pcv for my '01 I get Fram FV345 and Purolator PV1050. If I search for an '03 Sebring w/ 2.7 I get both the Fram and the Purolator AND a third option from Standard Motor V298 which is $8-$9 MORE than the Fram and Purolator ones. This is very interesting.

The name's Chris but the step-kids call me something much worse!
Favorite Quote: "A man's got to know his limitations."-Clint Eastwood as "Dirty" Harry Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)
Second favorite quote: "Another day, another drama."-Me (2006)
Third favorite quote: "I live a boring life. Its everyone in it that makes it interesting."-Me (2006)http://www.myspace.com/froggy81500

I still haven't gotten around to stopping by a DC dealer to get the new style valve. I was just on newmoparparts.com and figured I'd just order it. When I search for a pcv valve for my year (2001) I find one for 98-01 years list price $6.56

froggy--you gotta get this replaced, it will be the best $8.00 you ever spend on the car..After over 7000 miles after replacing it: my oil stays cleaner, engine idles perfect and not a bit of oil in the intake plenum :icon_smil .
Well worth the cost and soo easy to replace!! Also if you put some spark plug boot grease on all the hose connections it will help in not tearing them as you remove them next time, for some reason ($$)they are not very oil resistant and fall apart real easy as you pull them off..

Well, Lex, the Chrysler dealer around the corner from me didn't stock it but one near my work did. I picked one up this morning for like $10 and change (gotta pay tax ya know). I installed it when I got to my second job at 2:40 and didn't think I'd be driving until around 7 tonite. That was until my step daughter called and told me her house key wasn't in her purse so home I went. Hard to tell right away if the new valve makes any difference at this point. I'll be perceptive for the next few weeks, especially when it comes to fuel economy and oil consumption and see if there's any impact. If so, I will probably start a new thread to get this renewed attention and reference this one in it.

The name's Chris but the step-kids call me something much worse!
Favorite Quote: "A man's got to know his limitations."-Clint Eastwood as "Dirty" Harry Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)
Second favorite quote: "Another day, another drama."-Me (2006)
Third favorite quote: "I live a boring life. Its everyone in it that makes it interesting."-Me (2006)http://www.myspace.com/froggy81500

Well, after having this newly designed pcv valve on the engine for a little over a month, I can say this. Haven't noticed anything different, no difference in fuel economy either good or bad, nor have I really detected any change in oil consumption. One thing I did note that may or may not be caused by the pcv valve was some cold idle issue. Shortly after installing this new pcv valve, I noticed my cold idle was a little bit rougher, but it smooths right out when warmed up. there's a little bit of shaking when the engine is cold, not enough to see it on the tach so there's no skips, but its enough to feel it when sitting in the car. For the hell of it, I might just swap back in the old one tonight and run it for a few days/weeks and see if the cold idle has anything to do with the newer style valve.

Originally I thought it might have had to do with the EGR valve because I kept getting a P0406 code several days in a row and then it stopped for a few weeks now, but the shake is still there. During that week of getting a code, I did remove the air duct and tried cleaning the TB and IAC to see if it helped with anything, and didn't seem to change things at all.

The name's Chris but the step-kids call me something much worse!
Favorite Quote: "A man's got to know his limitations."-Clint Eastwood as "Dirty" Harry Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)
Second favorite quote: "Another day, another drama."-Me (2006)
Third favorite quote: "I live a boring life. Its everyone in it that makes it interesting."-Me (2006)http://www.myspace.com/froggy81500

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