Berries are good, but better with chocolate

As strawberries come into season, we can celebrate in a number of ways. The most obvious, of course, is simply to eat them. But sometimes we want to take them further into sensual possibilities. A light coating of dark chocolate can be the perfect touch. Hand-dipped, chocolate-coated strawberries only sound complicated. It's a surprisingly straightforward operation that is only a little messy. Just be sure you do this on a day that is not too hot or humid or turn on the air conditioning.

Break or chop 12 ounces semisweet chocolate into small pieces approximately the size of chocolate chips. (Or just use semisweet chocolate chips.) Place the pieces in the top of a double boiler, or in a heat-proof bowl. Place over hot or simmering (but not rapidly boiling) water until the chocolate melts. Try not to stir it and don't accidentally splash any water into it, or it will seize up. (Chocolate melted this way, over low heat and unagitated, becomes very smooth and retains a glossy shine.)

While the chocolate is melting, spray a few dinner plates with no-stick cooking spray.

When the chocolate melts, remove it from the heat. Pick up a strawberry (use large perfect ones with stems) by the stem and carefully dip it in the chocolate, rotating it a little, so the chocolate coats it either completely or just partially. (It's OK - preferable, even - if the coating goes on a bit thickly.) Gently place the coated strawberry on a sprayed plate, then repeat with another strawberry until you've done them all. Work steadily, if not quickly, so you can dip all the berries while the chocolate is still supple.

Let the coated morsels solidify on the plates, then transfer to a doily-lined platter for serving. If the weather is warm or your kitchen is hot from the oven being on, try to find a cool place to let them sit. The refrigerator is OK, if they're not in there too long (more than a few hours, that is), and they are covered tightly with plastic wrap. To make a larger quantity, it's better to do a single recipe multiple times (i.e., melt the chocolate in serial batches) than to do a large amount at once. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Once you get the hang of this, you can expand your dipping repertoire. Try dried apricots and mangos plus various nuts and raisins. (For the latter, use a spoon sprayed with cooking spray for dipping and retrieving.)