Banish hyperpigmentation in ethnic skin

One of the biggest skincare myths is that people with darker skin do not need much or any protection from the sun.. …

Ask most ethnic women what their biggest skincare concern is and they’re likely to say hyperpigmentation.

Caused by the overproduction of melanin, hyperpigmentation may be difficult to correct, but it’s very easy to avoid.

All skin, no matter the ethnicity, will produce varying amounts of pigment.

'The darker you are the more solid and dense the area of pigmentation will be, whereas the pigmentation in Caucasian skin is more speckled,' explains leading dermatologist, Dr Howard Murad.

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The amount of pigment we produce also correlates with the amount of protection we require from the environment.

So a person living in hotter climes like Africa will naturally produce more pigment to protect the skin against harmful UV rays.

'Hyperpigmentation occurs when there is too much pigmentation in the skin,' says Dr Murad.

'This is usually found all over the face.

'Melasma is another form of pigmentation which occurs, usually during hormonal changes, such as pregnancy and can be found in specific areas like the upper lip and cheeks.

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'The other type of pigmentation women suffer from is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which is caused by scars left from spots and acne.'

Although overexposure to the sun’s harmful UV rays plays a part in causing hyperpigmentation, there are other factors to consider.

'Hyperpigmentation occurs when there’s an irregular production of melanin,' explains Dr Sach Mohan, a cosmetic physician based on Harley Street, London.

'But it’s not just caused by the sun – lifestyle, trauma to the skin and hormonal changes all play a part too.'

Do you have hyperpigmentation?

Although there is little evidence to suggest hyperpigmentation relates specifically to ethnicity, it’s generally accepted to be more prominent in ethnic skin due to the darker skin colour.

'Dark skin has more melanin, and when an injury is caused to the skin, the cells which produce melanin go into overdrive and distribute it unevenly causing darker patches,' explains Aneequa Bhatti, skincare specialist at Juvea Aesthetics.

The hyperpigmented parts of the skin will be a lot darker than the rest of the skin, which makes it difficult to cover up.

Caucasian skin is also prone to suffer hyperpigmentation, although it isn’t as obvious. 'Hyperpigmentation is triggered by sun damage in paler, Caucasian skin tones,' adds Aneequa.

'This can lead to freckles, sun spots and discolouration as the skin ages.'

Paler skin suffer from hypopigmentation, which occurs when there isn’t enough pigment in the skin.

'This is usually the result of a skin disorder such as vitiligo,' says Kerry Lawlor, Education Officer at the Confederation of International Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology (CIBTAC).

'Due to the lack of melanin, individuals will be at far higher risk of burning, so should opt for a good SPF and look at treatments which help even skin tone, making the blemishes less obvious.'

Treatment

Treating hyperpigmentation is difficult and can take months of slathering on serums and skin correctors before you start seeing visible results.

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You can, however, reduce the appearance of pigmentation marks by regularly exfoliating, as this helps shed dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin.

You won’t see results overnight, but skin will look healthier and brighter right away.

'Hyperpigmentation is commonly the result of either hormonal changes or sun damage so prevention is desirable whenever possible,' adds Kerry.

'In the event it does occur, you’ll need to combine appropriate treatments with a change in behaviour – fully altering sun habits is crucial to prevent hyperpigmentation from getting worse'.

Dr Mohan also suggests looking for botanical ingredients in your skincare products, which can help reduce scarring. 'There are a multitude of ingredients that have the ability to inhibit the production of pigment in the melanocytes,' he explains.

'Sufferers should look out for ingredients such as vitamin C, liquorice or mulberry extract.'

Hydroquinone - to use or not to use?

It’s received a lot of bad press and is linked closely to the popularity of skin bleaching and whitening, but hydroquinone is a key ingredient in the fight against hyperpigmentation.

'Hydroquinone is used extensively by dermatologists,' explains Dr Mohan. 'It’s incredibly potent, and if not administered correctly, it can cause side-effects such as ochronosis, which worsens pigmentation and leaves blue marks.'

The popularity of hydroquinone means that it’s in nearly all Afro-Caribbean skincare products and is prescribed almost daily by dermatologists.

'Hydroquinone is banned over the counter in the UK, but I’ve been using it safely on my clients for the last 18 years and have never had any problems with it,' says Dr Mohan.

'It’s rarely applied on its own and is usually used with other ingredients and treatments.'

Remember, hydroquinone is regulated in the UK, which means you should avoid buying it online or without a prescription.

The potential role of Ayurveda in treating hyperpigmentation

Good skincare starts from the inside, which is a philosophy followed by Ayurvedic practices.

Ayurveda is an ancient medical philosophy that originated in India and focuses on holistic healing. In Ayurvedic philosophy, it is believed that hyperpigmentation issues are caused by an imbalance in the layers of skin.

An Ayurvedic practice called usnodaka suggests that hot water can help get rid of toxins, known as ama, in the body, which is thought to be a culprit in hyperpigmentation.

Pigmentation sufferers are advised to drink between six and eight cups of pre-boiled water daily.

It’s thought that boiling water for five minutes before you drink it helps stimulate your digestive system, which can help flush out the toxins that harm your skin and lead to hyperpigmentation.

However, there is a lack of research or scientific facts behind the practice of usnodaka and so it’s recommended that you consult your doctor before trying it.

Want to know more about ethnic beauty?

Ethnic skincare: Just like different skin types, different ethnicities also come with their own set of skincare problems.

Ethnic suncare: One of the biggest skincare myths is that people with darker skin do not need much or any protection from the sun.

Anti-ageing plan for all ethnicities: Ageing, wrinkles and crow’s feet are an unavoidable fact of life, but for most ethnic people this is something they will only face much later in life.

The materials in this web site are in no way intended to replace the professional medical care, advice, diagnosis or treatment of a doctor. The web site does not have answers to all problems. Answers to specific problems may not apply to everyone. If you notice medical symptoms or feel ill, you should consult your doctor - for further information see our Terms and conditions.

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