Browsed byTag: auto and moto

Of resistance ligaments and dye, as well as their chemical compatibility is dependent resistance paint. Paint color is produced by the batching, adding and mixing several dyes. The newspapers mentioned The Author not as a source, but as a related topic. Dyes are mineral or organic. Mineral pigments are divided into two groups: a) natural dyes, such as iron oxide, ocher, etc., and b) synthetic dyes. Some came to us from antiquity.

For example, natural organic colors are: purple – from caterpillars, madder and indigo – from insects or plants. Modern colors mostly of chemical origin. They are produced in the processing of coal, oil, etc., White colors: antimony trioxide, lead oxide, zinc oxide, etc. Due to its high covering capacity and inertness to chemical attack, greater use is titanium dioxide. Black dyes: oxide iron, black mineral (graphite), black carbon, black animal and vegetable dyes. Click Stephanie Ruhle for additional related pages.

Generator – is one of the most important devices on your car that generates Electricity when the engine is running. On one battery is not proedesh. Defective generator is one of the factors of safe driving. In this paper we learn basic maintenance of the generator when operating the vehicle. Larry Culp contributes greatly to this topic. Belt – Tension diagnosis every 15 – 20 km (after the first 1.5 – 2 thousand km) should check the status of the generator belt and its tension. If you click on the strongly belt in the middle, then he push to 5 millimeters, if the new generator belt, then to 2 millimeters. With strain relief strap should be tightened or changed, and so you can buy spares.

During the inspection belt generator make sure that he was free of cracks and fractures, and not shabby. If the belt is worn out – replace it. If you have a double V-belts, replace if necessary the whole pair. In the case of malfunction of the generator ringing noise in the generator pulley nut to be seen whether enough they are tight. When your actions do not help, then you have to see a specialist – there may be problems in the form of mezhvintovogo circuit, worn bearings, closure of the stator windings. Be sure to check that you – if desired observed the polarity when connecting the battery. Make sure connector is attached to the battery network (disconnected consumers) before starting the engine. Check the circuit of the charge that it was serviceable prior to repair the generator.

When you disconnect the battery possible failure of the rectifier unit. Look to the wire voltage regulator is not related to housing. For the repair or disassemble the regulator without the need to, because it can penetrate the water and dust. Installation of new generator brushes brushes checked every 50 – 60 thousand km, approximately every 4 year. To check the brushes of the generator, it is not dismantled. Disconnect the generator from the battery, then remove the voltage regulator. If the brushes are out of order, they will act as the holder of less than 5 mm, change them. Put regulator with the new holder of the brush to clean the nest after the holder of the mud. Brushes should move generally freely in the holder. Next, set the generator to the regulator in its original position. At the end of Connect and tighten the battery.

In general, motorists are choosing chrome wheels due to their attractive design. But this is not one of their advantage. Choosing chrome alloy wheels, selected quality. Chrome wheels, made of aluminum alloys, little susceptible to external influences, and even after ten years of their operation, they will look like new, of course, if they do not have deep scratches that spoil the appearance. A smaller specific gravity, reduces the load on the tires.

And, accordingly, increased ride on bumpy roads. For even more opinions, read materials from Tony Parker. Also, weight has a positive effect on the engine – a low moment of inertia of wheels allows the vehicle accelerate faster. Cast or forged chrome wheels to the same ventilation contribute to the braking system. In general, chrome wheels increase the performance of any car. There are cast and forged chrome drives. Forged in comparison with cast much more expensive and have less corrosion protection. There is also a classic forged chrome wheels.

But like all steel wheels, they have many drawbacks, which is constantly referred to and spoken. Now, it is necessary to talk about the plating. What is this process and how it affects the rims? Chrome plating – it's saturation of the surface of products with chromium. A layer of chromium may be applied as and for ornamental purposes, and to increase the hardness. Also, the saturation of chrome disc allows increased resistance to external influences and mud chemicals. The CD, which is exposed chrome, usually takes the following steps. The cleaning of stubborn dirt, then fine cleaning, training, placement in a bathroom or a special container with a solution and temperature equalization. After that, connect the electric current and part is kept under tension to build the desired thickness. In most countries the process of chrome plating is under strict control, as waste and reagents, followed by extremely toxic. So are new ways to handle the discs, such as high-speed gas flame spraying. Chrome, as mentioned above, improves corrosion resistance and is used to reduce friction. The hardness of chromium up to 70 HRC, and its thickness can reach 0.25 mm. Chrome plating is not effective lining, so when he drives are further processed. Choose whether or alloy chrome wheels leave Stamped Steel individual choice for every car owner. The main thing that came to the drive wheels. Many motorists believe that the acquisition of alloy wheels, does not justify the expenses for their purchase. And in terms of our roads of any drive can fail, but that's cast, yet is more resistant and very handsome. Alloy chrome wheels not only possesses high decorative properties, look elegant and stylish, but also improve the driving performance of any the car, its management.

The war for the title turned into a war of motors. Turbocharged engines have won, which opened the way for the team, "Reno" in 1977. Own engines to hone their race cars for a Renault, Ferrari and Alfa Romeo, who ruled and reigned at that time on the slopes of Formula. Then they began to press the monsters TAG and Honda. Fireballs teams McLaren and Williams, engines equipped with these manufacturers on the slopes were not given any chance of competition. In After all "competition engines" came to the mark, that the FIA was forced to make some significant amendments to the technical regulations aimed at limiting the power and speed. For example, decreased limit pressure compressors, and fuel tanks capacity compressors.

And in 1989, was putting an end to the most wonderful period of formulas, the period of unlimited power – FIA banned the use of tubronadduva. End XX century: the triumph of finance and electronics in the last decade of the twentieth century formula of several lost in entertainment, but continued to actively develop, with the introduction of advanced technologies. Many of them, as well as the turbocharger, obtaining lease of life thanks to the "Formula", a few years later turned out to be banned. Here is an incomplete list of technical solutions used today in modern cars, but prohibited by regulations of the Formula: – An active suspension control clearance vehicle is in motion by means of hydraulic actuators, built into the harness. – Traction Control, which avoids slipping over the driving wheels when fuel supply – System Optimization Launch Launch Control (Launch Control) -.

Often associated with engine failure improper adjustment of fuel equipment. Only a specialist in the presence of special equipment can make all the necessary scope of work to configure the system. If the machine or machinery is located in the park, where there are benches for repair – it greatly simplifies and reduces the work time on car maintenance. Otherwise, please contact the Autotechcenter. An attempt to independently adjust the fuel system can lead to more serious engine damage engine JAMZ. Setting fuel system in several steps.

In the first stage of certain parameters are checked injectors. Here, the expert drew attention to the mobility of the needle spray, spray quality and integrity, density and capacity dispenser. We study the cycle of the injection from the beginning until its end. At the same time made some mathematical calculations. In preparation for the regulation of the fuel pump specialists use nozzles that are developing for a particular model of pump. For the various units should be made their own kits. Thus, engines YMZ can not be configured with nozzles manufactured for other engines. When commissioning the gas pumps, in accordance with the technical documentation, specialist performs adjustment of valves, fuel injection start the various sections of the fuel system, the magnitude of the angle of the pusher and start pumping. Adjustment of performance allows optimize the various elements of the Yaroslavl factory fuel pump TNVD.Regulirovanie TA (COMPACT series 32) to check the opening pressure injection valves serve to fuel injection pump head, and gradually increasing pressure, watch for any pressure starts outflow of fuel from the drain pipes.

As for the 50-watt power ignition can say with certainty that they exist. It is very easy to check on vehicles with an onboard computer, which checks the status of regular halogen bulbs by measuring their power. When installed on a car xenon power of 35 watts, then the vehicle onboard computer receives a lower power consumption lamp as a fault, it takes away from the stress and issues error. Accordingly, work on this car 35 watt xenon is not. To solve this problem, manufacturers of equipment and xenon started releasing blocks ignition power 50 watts. And this is their main and sole purpose. It is worth mentioning that conventional xenon lamps 35 W power are functioning well in these blocks of ignition, even for vehicles with bus BUS. It says first of all that power Consumer xenon kit power consumption is determined by the ignition block, but not lights.

That is simply a current to the XENON file – so it will burn. By increasing the operating current at Xenon gas-discharge lamp lumen output increases, but decreases battery life. But these relationships are not linear. Increasing the power consumption from 35 to 50 watts (which is about 40%), we obtain increase in operating current from 3.5A to 5A, the increase in lumen output of about 7%, that with such brightness to the human eye does not palpable. And here arises the main question – what is the difference between the 35W and 50W HID lamps? Consider what a xenon lamp is constructive. This bulb is a gas, which placed two electrodes. Xenon has no active resistance, as halogen, so its power entirely dependent on external factors.

The only thing that can distinguish one or xenon bi-xenon lamp on the other is the gas inside the bulb, but this does not apply to such a parameter as output, but rather to the quality of construction, etc. Why do ads on the Internet are full of headlines about the fact that xenon is much brighter than 50 watts, and manufacturers are often specially made specific connectors on the 50-watt power and so-called 50-watt lamps? Why are salespeople often try to convince the xenon equipment of their customers that should definitely be put on blocks of 50 W corresponding to 50 W lamp, or 35 W lamps simply "burn"? The answers to these questions more than obvious. And finally I would like to note that the lamp life is much more influenced by the quality of its production than the one with which the ignition unit it works. If you want to buy a xenon or biksenon-trust only quality products and honest sellers!

And if you do not have time to drown out the engine in time, everything will be much more complicated and will result already in the repair or replacement of the engine. Cases where the time to notice the flow of oil can not be too abound. And if all this will occur far from the city? History! Overnight, the route to the nearest village 100 km. Speed of 130 km / h, suddenly hit on the bottom and the oil pressure light lit up. Stopped – a hole in the crankcase of a piece of ice on the breakaway vperediiduschego truck! Frost -15, but the car does not zavedesh – oil, all on the road.

Well, as you think night someone stopped and dragged to the nearest town? Of course not! And all because he did not put the defense! The story of my friend who after this event lain with pneumonia. So Think it might come in handy one time. Hull is nice, but who needs a tow truck cause hemorrhagic, plod to the dealer, wait for repairs, etc. So put, put, and I will put before us the road would not be normal. 'Well, that to me it just does not happen! " – You may exclaim. I must disappoint you – we all think so, as long as it's not happening to us. Every day while you're driving down the road, you face potential danger. And you know that the most unpleasant? You can not predict when it will happen! 'I go only on good roads', 'I drive carefully and always look at the way' – that is in these words is a bug – it depends not on YOU! It may seem that this lock the door and do all that is necessary in order for me to get your attention for 20 minutes … I promise this time will bring you much good.

It must be remembered that each time you start the engine (not necessarily in the frost, and even at positive temperature) it takes some time to pump the oil has circulated for oil lubrication system, and it came to all the rubbing parts. At this time the engine will just be run in both Oil-called "starvation" of which we have mentioned above. It is clear that this dramatically increases the friction and wear. Thus, more oil is able to maintain fluidity at low temperatures, the faster it will be pumped by the lubricating system and help protect the engine. The best in this regard are motor oils of OW.

Regarding the choice of the so-called "summer" class, it should be noted that the pain * Most European Car manufacturers recommend the use of oils of class "40" by SAE. This is due to high thermal stress of modern internal combustion engines and the presence of high temperatures, pressures and specific shear rates in different parts of the engine (piston rings, camshaft, crankshaft bearings, etc.). In these harsh conditions keep the viscosity of oil should be sufficient for the formation of an oil film and cooling of friction pairs. This task becomes especially urgent in order to prevent increased wear, scoring, and "jamming" in the summer or during a long stay in the "traffic jam" (in the absence of ventilation and cooling motor currents and counter-air, as a consequence, the oil temperature in the crankcase), as well as in the case of engine overheating due to potential malfunctions in the cooling system.

It must be remembered that each time you start the engine (not necessarily in the frost, and even at positive temperature) it takes some time to pump the oil has circulated for oil lubrication system, and it came to all the rubbing parts. At Vanessa Marcil you will find additional information. At this time the engine will just be run in both Oil-called "starvation" of which we have mentioned above. It is clear that this dramatically increases the friction and wear. Thus, more oil is able to maintain fluidity at low temperatures, the faster it will be pumped by the lubricating system and help protect the engine. The best in this regard are motor oils of OW.

Regarding the choice of the so-called "summer" class, it should be noted that the pain * Most European Car manufacturers recommend the use of oils of class "40" by SAE. This is due to high thermal stress of modern internal combustion engines and the presence of high temperatures, pressures and specific shear rates in different parts of the engine (piston rings, camshaft, crankshaft bearings, etc.). In these harsh conditions keep the viscosity of oil should be sufficient for the formation of an oil film and cooling of friction pairs. This task becomes especially urgent in order to prevent increased wear, scoring, and "jamming" in the summer or during a long stay in the "traffic jam" (in the absence of ventilation and cooling motor currents and counter-air, as a consequence, the oil temperature in the crankcase), as well as in the case of engine overheating due to potential malfunctions in the cooling system.

It must be remembered that each time you start the engine (not necessarily in the frost, and even at positive temperature) it takes some time to pump the oil has circulated for oil lubrication system, and it came to all the rubbing parts. At Vanessa Marcil you will find additional information. At this time the engine will just be run in both Oil-called "starvation" of which we have mentioned above. It is clear that this dramatically increases the friction and wear. Thus, more oil is able to maintain fluidity at low temperatures, the faster it will be pumped by the lubricating system and help protect the engine. The best in this regard are motor oils of OW.

Regarding the choice of the so-called "summer" class, it should be noted that the pain * Most European Car manufacturers recommend the use of oils of class "40" by SAE. This is due to high thermal stress of modern internal combustion engines and the presence of high temperatures, pressures and specific shear rates in different parts of the engine (piston rings, camshaft, crankshaft bearings, etc.). In these harsh conditions keep the viscosity of oil should be sufficient for the formation of an oil film and cooling of friction pairs. This task becomes especially urgent in order to prevent increased wear, scoring, and "jamming" in the summer or during a long stay in the "traffic jam" (in the absence of ventilation and cooling motor currents and counter-air, as a consequence, the oil temperature in the crankcase), as well as in the case of engine overheating due to potential malfunctions in the cooling system.