I document my various outings of rock climbing in Newfoundland. A group of us are developing new sport climbing and trad climbing area's around the Avalon Peninsula. I like to share photo's of the new climbing route with overlay of topos. I also publish photos of established rock climbing areas with route descriptions.

Thursday, August 09, 2012

Dyslexia 5.7

I was out climbing today with Louis Loader, David Bruneau, Kim and myself. I would like to say that I was crushing 5.12 like the boys but nope. Louis and David asked if they could come out and do some bolting. The last time out, Kim and I placed a set of top anchors below Life or Limb. I showed the guys how to use the drill and the basics of bolting.

We tied off the rope with a figure 8 at the mid-point. I rapped on one side while David and Louis came down the other side. We shared the drilling and bolting. At one point, I thought the drill bit must have worn out. David had half the hole drilled and he just couldn't get any deeper. We checked the bit, it was fine. The battery was fresh. For a couple of minutes we just couldn't figure it out. Then David says "maybe I have the drill turned on in reverse!". The drill has two settings, forward and reverse, for screwing in and taking out screws. David managed to drill most of the hole with the drill in reverse. We had a bit of a laugh about that.

Once we finished bolting the line, Louis and David did 'rock, paper, scissors' for the FA. The line starts to the right of Obsession under a horn-like feature about 15 feet off the ground. The are a series of nice jugs/rales running diagonally up to the left. Above the horn, follow a series of under clings to the left arrete and follow another series of jugs for about 15 feet. The route then head back right to the top bolts. The route is about 75 feet with eight bolts and top anchors.

David got the FA (sorry Louis). He wanted the name to reflect his bolting experience, especially the one he drilled in reverse. I suggested to keep the theme of the wall (Obsession and Obsessive Compulsive Disorder) and came up with Dyslexia. The decision was suominanu. The route is called Dyslexia and it goes at 5.7.

2 comments:

Hi – Will you please post a link to your Blog at The Rock Climbing Community? Our members will love it. Members include: Other Rock Climbers, Guides, Experts and ClubsIt's easy to do, just cut and paste the link and it automatically links back to your website… it’s a win win. You can also add Photos, Videos and equipment Classifieds if you like. It’s free and easy.Email me if you need any help or would like me to do it for you.The Rock Climbing Community: http://www.vorts.com/rock_climbing/Thanks,James Kaufman, Editor

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About Me

I am 46 and I have been rock climbing for about 14 years. I climb mostly moderate sport climbs. I do enjoy a bit of trad climbing. I would say one of my biggest interests in climbing is developing. There is tons of potential spots for climbing around St. John's and I like finding them and developing them with my climbing partners.