Drunk tourists in Mallorca who 'cause a public nuisance' to face fines

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When to go

Athens has been a romantic destination for British tourists since Lord Byron settled there in the 1820s and died in the cause of Greek independence, but ironically most still make a fleeting trip in the scorching months between June and September. A visit between late September and November, or in spring, not only guarantees more balmy weather, it’s also likely to be cheaper (many ancient sites have lower admission fees between November and March) and less crowded. And, being Europe’s most southerly mainland capital, even the winter months are relatively mild.

When he wasn’t building walls in the north of England, Roman emperor Hadrian was an avid Hellenophile who commissioned theatres, temples, baths and arches throughout the city. To mark 1900 years singe his reign, there’s a major exhibition, ‘Hadrian and Athens’ the National Archealogical Museum (1) (namuseum.gr) until 28 October. For more events and exhibitions in the city, see thisisathens.org and discovergreece.com

Where to stay

The five-star Hotel Grande Bretagne (2) (grandebretagne.gr), in the heart of the city’s shopping district in Syntagma Square, has long been the city’s go-to luxury option. Steeped in history, it was the Nazi headquarters during occupation, and later came within seconds of oblivion during the Greek Civil War when the British used it as their base. A ton of dynamite was hidden in the sewers beneath, only for the operation to be called off because Churchill was arriving there. Doubles from €255 (£230).

The New Hotel (3) (yeshotels.gr) which has cleverly incorporated the furniture from its predecessor into its striking modern decor, is a comfortable, well-located option nearby. Doubles from €210 (£190) B&B.

For budget travellers, the Quinta Hostel (4) (athens-quinta.hotelsathens.org), in the leafy Exarcheia district, a 15-minute walk from the centre, offers charming, vintage-themed rooms from €37 (£33).

How to get around

There are plenty of low-cost flight options from the UK, including Aegean Airlines which runs three daily flights throughout the year (en.aegeanair.com) and connections through to 30 more Greek destinations.

Most visitors arrive via Athens International Airport, about 20 miles south-east of the city. Taxis into the city have a fixed fare of €38 (£35) (€54/£48 between midnight and 5am) and take about 20 minutes. Line 3 of the four-line Metro system will get you there in 40 minutes for €10 (£9). Within the city, Metro tickets are €1.40 (£1.30), €4.50 (£4) for a 24-hour pass or €22 (£20) for three days. Line 1 runs to the main ferry port at Piraeus. Bus X95 runs from the airport to Syntagma Square (5) 24 hours a day in around an hour and 10 minutes, €6 (£5.40).

Athens’ five-line tram system, which sells tickets through automated machines, is also a great way to get around. One €1.40 (£1.30) ticket will take you anywhere on the system for 90 minutes – just make sure to validate your journey on the tram as there’s a hefty fine if you don’t. Information in English at athenstransport.com

Central Athens

SATURDAY

Start the day

On raised ground stretching roughly between Syntagma Square and the foot of the Acropolis (6), is the charming Plaka neighbourhood, built in traditional Aegean style on the site of the original ancient city by architects from the island of Anafi. In contrast to the rest of the city, its cobbled, largely pedestrianised streets and quirky boutiques and tavernas make it popular with tourists, but it’s the perfect relaxed introduction to a bustling modern metropolis.

Lunch break

The city’s vegetable, meat and fish markets are housed in spectacular 19th-century wrought iron buildings (7) almost opposite each other near the lower end of the Athinas central thoroughfare. The colourful variety of the morning’s catch is well worth seeing in itself.

Taking full advantage of the plethora of fresh ingredients, the reasonably-priced Diporto Taverna (8) nearby at Sokratous 9 is a local institution, where you can expect a busy mix of stallholders and diners taking advantage of simple but delicious Greek dishes served at speed.

Hit the shops

The city’s main shopping street is Ermou, running west through Monastiraki from Syntagma Square, lined with high-end fashion stores and chains. But the quirky boutiques of Adrianou (9), a couple of blocks to the south, and the bazaar-like stalls of the flea market off Ifestou nearby are worth exploring for more unusual fare.

Don’t miss

A quick trip down the escalators at Monastiraki metro station next to the flea market reveals a hidden stream and Roman ceramics from the ancient city, discovered during the station’s construction and now on display. Above ground is the Roman Agora (marketplace) (10) (daily, €6/£5.40) and the octagonal Tower of the Winds, thought to be the world’s first meteorological station, incorporating a water clock, sundials and a weather vane. If you have more time, the Acropolis (daily, €20/£18) itself and the award-winning Acropolis Museum (theacropolismuseum.gr, daily, €5/£4.50), where a Lego model of the Acropolis will be on display in December, are Athens essentials. Book tickets and allotted times for the ancient sites in advance to avoid queues (odysseus.culture.gr).

Time for a drink

A five-minute walk north takes you back to the smart Psiri neighbourhood, centre of Athens’ burgeoning foodie and bar scene. Nip in to the extravagantly-decorated Noel bar (11) on Kolokotroni (noelbar.gr) built into one of the many “stoa” or covered walkways, for a cocktail themed on the tarot card pack. It also does excellent light meals.

Dinner reservation

It’s usual to eat late in Athens; by 10pm tables will be full and the central streets will be buzzing. The trendy Mask restaurant (12) (maskathens.com), at 18 Kalamiotou Street in what was once King Otto’s summer palace, is an atmospheric spot for modern Greek dishes and excellent cocktails.

SUNDAY
Take a stroll

Zoe, from alternativeathens.com is a trained architect and full of fascinating information about her city’s heritage. She is one of a number of guides that lead specialist and group walking tours of the city from €45 (£40). One such trip plunges into Monastiraki, to take in the buzz of the weekly antiques market, then onto Agion Anargyron (13), one of the oldest squares in the city. Here, an area of narrow streets is decorated with phenomenal graffiti, much of it dating from the austerity riots of 2011. At the back of the square, the offices of an anarchist newspaper have now been turned into an arts centre. A left turn down Palamidou, then right along Sarri will reveal some of the most impressive street art, before turning right along Aristofanous to Iroon Square (14), the heart of the lively Psiri neighbourhood. Follow Agias Irinis to the heart of the city’s bar and restaurant district.

Athens street art

Lunch break

Hoocut True Pitta (15) (facebook.com/hoocut) offers a new take on an old Greek favourite, souvlaki. Five top chefs have joined forces to put the focus back on artisanal quality, making their own flatbreads and theatrically grilling prime cuts of meat in front of diners.

Time to relax

For the culturally-minded, the newly-opened national library and opera at the Renzo Piano-designed Stavros Niarchos Centre (16) (snfcc.org) in Kallithea is well worth the 15-minute taxi or tram ride. In keeping with Greece’s ancient tradition of arts sponsorship, the centre was a gift to the nation from one of its wealthiest shipping magnates. Apart from the numerous shows and exhibitions, there are daily free tours of the water park and building (book ahead, 90 minutes, free), with stunning views across the city and the Aegean from the roof. Afterwards, it’s a short walk to the shops and bars of the nearby Flisvos marina and beaches.

Have a treat

Though not widely exported, Greece produces some surprisingly good wines of its own, and a guided tour of the best of the city’s wine bars is a great way to get to know them. An evening wine tasting tour with Athens Insiders (athensinsiders.com ) costs €250 (£225) for two people.

ASK A LOCAL

Demitri Ravanopoulos, businessman

Demitri Ravanopoulos

Make sure you pass by St Irene’s Square. It used to be the flower market, but now the lovely 19th century buildings are full of trendy cocktail places and cafes – new places are opening all the time and there’s always a buzz

Drunk tourists in Mallorca who 'cause a public nuisance' to face fines

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