North East Face

(3 routes)

A quality modern rock route up an elegant buttress. The route takes a line up the buttress to the left of the North East Face following perfect crack systems. It starts on a small slab at the toe of the buttress. The problem is getting into this route. Dave and Richard rappelled down off the Coxcomb from the Bonar, a somewhat committing prospect. If snow conditions allow there is a snow ramp down off Pope’s Nose but this breaks up quickly.

The North East Face was climbed by Lindsay Bell and Don Bogie in August, 1978. Bivvys were necessary at the bottom and top of the climb. Bell and Bogie reported that due to the poor nature of the rock and the risk of stonefall, the climb would only be practicable when iced up. The route starts out to the left of the obvious ice streaks running down the middle of the face and then, when roofs are encountered traverses into the main streak, which usually has clean rock to the right of it.

An excellent line that follows nine pitches of very good, weathered rock, before deteriorating as it nears the North East Ridge. Climbed in 12 x 60m pitches. To descend, the first ascent party partly descended the North East Ridge before making four 50–60m abseils to the glacier.