Even to the most hardened cosmopolite Belize City – the country’s largest city, though not the capital – can be a daunting place. Dilapidated wooden buildings stand right on the edge of the road, offering pedestrians little refuge from the incessant traffic, and local attention ranges from simple curiosity and good-natured joking to outright heckling. Still, travellers who approach the city with an open mind – and those who are willing to spend more than a few hours here – may actually enjoy themselves. The streets, which certainly are chaotic, buzz with energy, the result of the diversity of the city’s 76,000 citizens. And the city is, without a doubt, an experience; those who manage to feel comfortable here should have no problems anywhere else in the country.

Belize City is divided into northern and southern halves by Haulover Creek, a branch of the Belize River. The pivotal (literally) point of the city centre is the Liverpool-made Swing Bridge, the only manually operated swing bridge left in the Americas. Formerly opened twice a day, it is now only operated on special request due to the decrease in river traffic. North of the bridge is the slightly more upmarket part of town, home to the most expensive hotels. South of the Swing Bridge is the commercial zone, home to the city’s banks and a couple of supermarkets. It’s all compact enough that walking is the easiest way to get around.

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Staying safe in Belize City

Walking in Belize City in daylight is perfectly safe if you use common sense: be civil, don’t provoke trouble by arguing too forcefully and never show large sums of money on the street. Women should dress conservatively: female travellers, especially those wearing short shorts or skirts, are likely to attract mild verbal harassment from local men. However, the presence of a specially trained tourism police (227-6082), together with the legal requirement that all tour guides be licensed, generally prevents serious crime.

The chances of being mugged do increase after dark, but you’ll find that you can walk – with others – around the centre in relative safety; you’ll certainly encounter tourism police in this area. If you’re venturing further afield, or if you’ve just arrived by bus at night, travel by taxi.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Belize City is generally more expensive than elsewhere in the country, so prices for even budget rooms can come as quite a shock. There’s usually no need to book in advance unless you’re eager to stay in a particular hotel – you’ll always be able to get something in the price range you’re looking for. Keep in mind, however, that the further south and west you go, the more dangerous the area becomes; if you are travelling alone you may want to stay north of the river near Queen Street, the city’s most populated area.

Eating

Belize City’s selection of restaurants is quite varied, though simple Creole fare (rice and beans) still predominates at the lower end of the price scale. Be warned that many restaurants close early in the evening and on Sundays. You’ll find plenty of al fresco spots north of the river off Daly Street. Otherwise many hotels have attached restaurants.

Drinking and nightlife

Belize City’s nightlife really comes into its own on Fridays and Saturdays; any other night of the week, you’ll likely find the city deserted after 9pm, with only a few hard-drinking (and often rowdy) locals frequenting the bars that are open. On weekends, however, there are plenty of venues to choose from, playing everything from techno to Latin grooves to punta, soca and reggae, though even then don’t arrive much before midnight, or you’ll find many places empty. A relatively safe area of town with a variety of bars and clubs is the strip of Barracks Newtown Road from the Princess Hotel to Caesar’s Palace bar.