Jamek, Weingut JosefWachau, AustriaRied KlausSmaragdRiesling2000$45.0013.0%Matured golden bronzed color, admirable shine and clarity, quite nice. You get oil slick and diesel notes in the nose, heavy cream, snap pea and grass, white grapefruit pith before opening into pineapple, papaya, nectarine and peach scents, comes on strong at first then turns blunt and somewhat mute. Medium-bodied with accents of coconut oil, dough and some honey, on the whole dry and firm. The acidity is soft, however, there's sufficient smokiness to give it added spine. White grapefruit, here the tropicality muffled but you can still get pineapple, nectarine, peach, persimmon to kiwi fruit flavors. The doughiness builds over time, bringing with added rubber notes. Not too old, just likely never had the acidity for the long haul.88 points