Alaska is a land of superlatives. It’s big, wild and hairy (and, as the joke goes, that’s just the girls in Talkeetna). I’d heard so much about it that I knew sooner or later I’d end up there. And I did. And I came away again with a great new route. Twid and I had...

Another ‘How to’ Article for the BMC – this time the Eiger No other mountain in the Alps elicits emotions like the Eiger. Foreboding and dominant above the Alpine village of Grindelwald, it has been inspiration for Hollywood films, books and countless mountaineers. At 3970 metres it fails to hit the ‘magical’ 4000 metres height...

A short article I wrote for the BMC How to Climb the Matterhorn The Matterhorn is surely the world’s most iconic peak. Its commanding, isolated position at the head of the valley is unique in the Alps and its claim to being one of the world’s most beautiful mountains is well justified. It is also...

This year’s ski touring season has been a good one but not straightforward. A good example of this was my usual week with John (we’ve skied together since I qualified) which was a planned tour around the Zinal area (often called the Imperial Haute Route or Tour de Ciel depending upon where you start and...

One of the great joys of working for yourself is the freedom to drive your work where you want it. I increasingly enjoy designing and leading small bespoke trips to interesting places, and am blessed with a small cadre of likeminded clients who buy into this philosophy. When I received an email from Andy and...

I remember asking my French teacher what the French phrase for “I work too much” was. When she struggled to answer immediately it gave me a great opportunity to point out that it probably didn’t exist in France? A cheap and funny line that hid a truth not that the French work too little but...

The alps this season are the best I’ve known for icy, mixed conditions. The Grande Jorasses, Sans Nom and other north faces have been consistently in good condition and have had many, many repeats. I’ve managed to get out amongst it, both with work and personal climbing and mostly have got it right. Kevin came...

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