Description

The Geisler Group is one of the Northernmost climbing ranges in the Italian Dolomites, and contains many important summits. The area was at one time part of the Austrian Tirol prior to W.W. I. There is a distinct third language , Ladin, differing from the more frequently spoken German or Italian, is still in use in the Groednertal. Major summits include the Grosse Fermeda, Kleine Fermeda, and the Furchetta. The high point of the range/group/massif is the Sass Rigais at 3,025 meters (9,922 feet).

Getting There

Principal access point Passo Gardena with St. Ulrich in the Groednertal, Selva (Wolkenstein) and St. Christina as alternatives.

The routes described in this Group lie to the north of the Sella Group - north of road 243.

Most of the routes are accessed from Passo Gardena (Grodher Joch) or road 243 descending from either side. You can reach Passo Gardena from the south side of the Sella group at Canazei by driving up to Passo Sella, crossing it and descending to the north. At the junction of Road 242 and 243 take the right hand branch back up road 243 until you reach the pass. From the north side of the Sella group (Corvara) drive due west up road 243 to the top of the pass.

The mountain faces on the Stevia Plateua (Torre Firenze) are also included here as they are all along a contiguous ridge line north of the Sella group in terms of location. The Stevia Plateau lies to the Southeast of the Geisler Group, and the high point is Montischella; 2,615 meters. The Western and Northwestern aspect is steep and abrupt with major Dolomite outcroppings of climbable rock, most notably Torre Firenze. There are several mountain Rifugio, most notably the Regensburger Hut (Rifugio Firenze), and Rifugio Juac. Both are accessible from Selva (Wolkenstein) by steep but well cared for mountain paths. This area is accessed by taking the north fork in the road past Passo Sella (road 242) and heading past Selva (Wolkenstein) then drive to the Daunei section via a steep and somewhat winding paved road into St. Christina and parking at the Col Raiser ski lift car park. The road ends at a public parking area where the paths begin and are well-marked. Head up to the Firenze hut and then to the mountain route of choice.

Pitch 1 - Start on a grassy ledge and climb a crack up to a left-facing ramp. (45m)Pitch 2 - Follow another crack and left-facing ramp. (50m)Pitch 3 - Continue up the ramp, then move right to the base of a corner. (45m)Pitch 4 - Traverse right on ledges to a groove.Pitch 5 - Climb up the groove. (50m)Pitch 6 - Climb black slabs then step right towards arete. (35m)Pitch 7 - Climb up the water-worn channel. (50m)Pitch 8 - Climb broken crack that is to the left of more black slabs to a small stance...[more]Browse More Classics in International