2. Oscar de la Renta: I can only imagine the immense pressure that Peter Copping felt moments before his debut as Oscar De la Renta's successor. Impossible shoes to fill, yet his first outing for the famed label was refined and modern. His sense of colour play in this look is exquisite.

3. Rodarte: The love child of Miss Kitty and Bob Mackie. I admire the inventiveness and creativity – even though the aesthetic is well beyond my fashion sweet spot.

4. Narciso Rodriguez: To describe this collection as long, lean and minimal would be an understatement. There was nothing especially inventive about this interpretation of the slip dress.

5. KTZ: This is a complicated collection to critique because it raises the valid question of when designers cross the line between inspiration and cultural appropriation. What is intriguing – and notable – is the unexpected pop art treatment of Native American motifs. It's a fresh, non-reductive interpretation, but does that make it right? Where is the line between inspiration and cultural appropriation?