I don't have any scientific evidence, but I am inclined to believe the "Fake-a-Lake" will supply water fast enough to cool you motor when it is on the trailer running and not under any load. Even though the impeller can pump water faster, it doesn't necessarily have to. There will still be plenty of water moving through it to keep the impeller from running dry or heating up. Running from a bucket and a hose does essentially the same thing, even if the bucket seems to be dry, you are still sucking up water at a pretty good flow rate.

I don't have any scientific evidence, but I am inclined to believe the "Fake-a-Lake" will supply water fast enough to cool you motor when it is on the trailer running and not under any load. Even though the impeller can pump water faster, it doesn't necessarily have to. There will still be plenty of water moving through it to keep the impeller from running dry or heating up. Running from a bucket and a hose does essentially the same thing, even if the bucket seems to be dry, you are still sucking up water at a pretty good flow rate.

until it slips off... and a fully primed impeller works cooler as well IMO.

__________________...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

I don't have any scientific evidence, but I am inclined to believe the "Fake-a-Lake" will supply water fast enough to cool you motor when it is on the trailer running and not under any load. Even though the impeller can pump water faster, it doesn't necessarily have to. There will still be plenty of water moving through it to keep the impeller from running dry or heating up. Running from a bucket and a hose does essentially the same thing, even if the bucket seems to be dry, you are still sucking up water at a pretty good flow rate.

I am on the same page as this. I don't use the fake-a-lake, but I direct garden hose to water pump connection. I still just don't see how running on the hose for 5 minutes is going to harm anything. Your underlined comments make perfect sense in my mind.

This said, I completely understand the ease of using a bucket or tub to get the antifreeze into the block. Brilliant idea on that end.

I am on the same page as this. I don't use the fake-a-lake, but I direct garden hose to water pump connection. I still just don't see how running on the hose for 5 minutes is going to harm anything. Your underlined comments make perfect sense in my mind.

This said, I completely understand the ease of using a bucket or tub to get the antifreeze into the block. Brilliant idea on that end.

Agreed.

I'm curious...if the point is to get the engine temp up, doesn't using less water get you their more quickly, or am I missing something? There's been a time or two where my flow was low and so I saw the temp get up to 200+ pretty quickly. Isn't that the goal or is that heating up the wrong things?

I'm curious...if the point is to get the engine temp up, doesn't using less water get you their more quickly, or am I missing something? There's been a time or two where my flow was low and so I saw the temp get up to 200+ pretty quickly. Isn't that the goal or is that heating up the wrong things?

I'm not sure if you are joking or not.

Not all parts of the engine and exhaust with heat up at the same rate. With a lack of water you risk over heating parts of the engine and this includes the flex hoses and the mufflers. I'm not looking to get the temp to 200 degrees or heat up the engine unevenly.

When I'm doing my winterization I run the motor for a lot longer then 5 minutes. Getting the engine to temp probably takes 15 minutes alone. One of the things I want to accomplish is getting the oil good and warm as well.

I'm curious...if the point is to get the engine temp up, doesn't using less water get you their more quickly, or am I missing something? There's been a time or two where my flow was low and so I saw the temp get up to 200+ pretty quickly. Isn't that the goal or is that heating up the wrong things?

I am very in the protect the engine at any cost or action. After seeing two motors fry head gaskets and worse I want the maximum amount of water traveling past the cylinders - The gap(surface) between cylinders is small and things get hot there very quick.

I'll call hose method adequate - but bucket or tub method best. I don't want to see the inside of my engine anytime soon. But that is just me.

When I ran the bucket method - I just could not go back. I do use hose to do a start test before I trailer anywhere tho' - just make sure she starts after sitting for a week or so.

__________________...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

Not all parts of the engine and exhaust with heat up at the same rate. With a lack of water you risk over heating parts of the engine and this includes the flex hoses and the mufflers. I'm not looking to get the temp to 200 degrees or heat up the engine unevenly.

When I'm doing my winterization I run the motor for a lot longer then 5 minutes. Getting the engine to temp probably takes 15 minutes alone. One of the things I want to accomplish is getting the oil good and warm as well.

Yes...and no. It was by accident that I saw the temp rise quickly, but it got me to wondering. So how do you know when it is to temp...or are you still going by the temp gauge but getting there at engine idle?

And are you wanting the oil warm because you are going to be changing it as well?

Waring up the engine can take a while in MN because the hose water isn't very warm in October. A person can take some advantage of heat soak by running the engine for five minutes, then shutting down for a couple minutes, then restarting and running for five minutes....... You do need to run at more than idle speed to get the engine warmed up and thats where the supply of water direct from the hose is not sufficient in my estimation.