$400 is a good price in excellent condition. Model 66's in 2.5" and 4" are always in demand, especially the earlier models. I would need to know the dash number (66-1, 66-2, etc.) or better yet the serial number to tell you more about it. Look on the left side of the frame directly above the thumb latch (cylinder release). If you see a key hole then you got the lock.
I paid $460 for my used 2.5" 66-1 and was happy to get it.

Last month I paid substantially more than $400 for a 4" 66 no-dash in more or less new condition that was manufactured back in '72. I may have paid a bit more than market but I don't regret it a bit. The gun is a fine shooter, very accurate, and it balances beautifully in my hand. I've come to believe that K-frames are the epitome of Smith design and the gun assumes more value (not necessarily market, but personal) for me because Smith no longer makes K-frame magnums. Personally, I think that $400 is an excellent price if the gun is in good condition. I'm certain that you'll enjoy shooting it

Smith manufactured 66's for almost 25 years and there were a number of design changes that Smith implemented during that period. The very first 66s, like mine, came with wooden target grips, forged parts, pinned barrels, and recessed cylinders. Some folks consider those features to be pluses and draw invidious comparisons with later models which came with rubber Hogue grips, MIM parts, screwed in barrels, and non-recessed cylinders, and of course, locks. Personally, none of those changes make any difference to me, I'd be just as happy with a newer model than with an old one.

The only change that I find to be significant between newer 66s and the original model is the sights. The very first 66s, such as mine, came with all stainless front and rear sights. After a few months Smith switched to a red insert front sight and, eventually, to a black rear sight. I find the all stainless front sight to be a minor drawback because, in some light it just sort of disappears into the distance. I suppose I could change mine but I won't because I like to keep my gun authentic. Aside from that, I'd say that the 66 is the perfect revolver!

I've seen a 66-1 in virtually unfired condition - in its original box as high as $ 600 - but that is a pretty unusual find.

$ 400 - $450 is probably a good average price around here for a good 4" / a -1 or -2 might be $ 500 / -3 is a little lower / -4 had has a MIM trigger in 1997 / it went to -5 in 1998 ( and those will have the belly button or internal frame lock ).

I got this 66-3 NIB in 92 for 330$. Probably not a bargain price at the time though. Smooth as silk and DA is better a slight bit than the 64-3 in the picture, but maybe partly due to the wide trigger. The 64 has a lighter SA though, about almost hair trigger, but the Magnum is no slouch. The magnum is just a slight bit better in fit and finish too. It is staying in the collection here. Last handgun I would part with, I think. Runner ups are the 64 and the Colt 1911. I guess I can imagine them selling for 400 or more all these years later, but I would choke at the price just because I have seen the day when K frame revolvers were dirt cheap and everyone wanted to dump them for a cool autoblaster of some sort.

Four hundred dollars is a fair price for a 66. More than likely you are not going to find a real bargain on a gun like that unless you happen to be in the right place at the right time--people know what those guns are worth.

If the gun you are looking at is pinned and recessed, it is worth a little more. I did not say it is necessarily better, but there are people like me who refuse to buy a S&W unless it has a pinned barrel, and recessed chambers if a magnum. Why? Just 'cause.

I need a good 66, and I would pay $400 for one that was in good shape. Look for flame cutting on the top-strap and general looseness, both indications that someone has gotten carried away and shot too many hot magnum reloads.

Just look around and see what a new gun of this quality (if one is available) would cost.

he was wrong,,,and so was i,,,about the pinned and recessed cylinder,,neither of us no nothing about revolvers,,,thats why I'm here with all the questions,,and I appreciate everyone's help,,,its just a beautiful gun,,,,,,bottom line,,should I buy?

The 100 rounds are only valuable if they're factory loads / not reloads. If they are reloads - tell him to keep them - and ask for a $ 25 - $50 discount on the gun. I would not recommend you shoot anyone else's reloads - no way to tell what he has in them / whether he was careful or not.

66-2 was made from 1982 - 86. The -2 eliminated cyclinder counterbore and pinned barrel and there was a slight change in cyclinder length to 1.62"

But there is no reason not to buy a -2 / only pure collectors are really concerned with whether barrels are pinned or not. Not having a pinned barrel does not mean its a weaker gun. I'm a collector and shooter / shoot everything I own / so the "- number" is not more important to me than the condition at least until you get into later dash numbers where you might have MIM parts, internal frame locks, etc.

Many years ago, I can't even remember who I bought it from, I picked up a M66-1 2 1/2. Added secret service grips and that's that. It's zero-zero in tolerance. That is it's rock tight when the cylinder is shut. Shoots dead on with 145 gr Silvertips. That and my CS-1 M686 3 incher are my favorite wheelguns, even better than my Speed Six. Both unfortunatly are safe queens now. My shooter is a M625 3 inch .45 ACP.

And yes, the prices just go up and up. I picked up a Smith M10, virtualy mint, made in 1949-1950, for $300. Now the books pretty much say $400 or more. I remember when five screw M10s, like most other M10s, were $200 buck guns, but only if in real good condition. Same goes for 30/30s.

And Rocket, you will just love the M66, at least with .38 spl. ammo. Full magnums can be a handfull though!

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"The government has confiscated all of our rights and is selling them back to us in the form of permits."

Well put. I had a 2.5" barrel M66 but sold it a couple of years ago. It was too much for me. I sold it to a young friend of mine who's a Captain in the US Army, currently in Iraq, and much stronger than I am. I sold it to him for $300. We were both happy with the deal.

I've bought and sold a few over the years. If it strikes your fancy, then buy it. You can always sell/trade it if it doesn't work out. If it's in good shape, $400 sounds like a reasonable price.

I remember in the late 90's maybe, people walking around gun shows with K frames, usually 38, blued, asking 150$. You could turn up your nose at anything with less than 98% finish and still walk out with them at or near that price. Guess I should have bought them all, oiled them up, put them in a big box, and now resell them for a tidy profit. But at that time wheelguns were "on the way out" and in the minds of some, about to become undesireable paperweights and a bad investment!

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Your gun is like your nose, it is just wrong for someone else to pick it for you!

I just paid $400 for a model 66-1 in great shape–couldn't be happier.
Having read this thread, I see I made a good buy.
It's got almost a hair trigger, though, and I can push the hammer down with 5 to 10 pounds of pressure (hard to tell exactly how much). Is that typical of this model?

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