Approach

The route goes by the right side of massif. Start of the route is behind the Tooth of Shaan-Kaya. Point of start is 100 m (330 ft) to the right of Grischenko Right Route (which starts from the big tree). It is good shown on the photo.

Route Description

R0 - R1 (35 m, V-, 70°): By the cracks and inside corners climb up to the ledge. Belay station is on the ledge.
R1 - R2 (50 m, VI, A2, 80°): Climb up-left by the crack, sometimes aid climbing. Follow in big roof direction. Belay station is on sloping ledge before the roof.
R2 – R3: By overhanging crack climb to the roof. Pass the roof by right side (30 m, VI, A3, 95°). Then climb to the crack (5 m, VI, 90°). Climb by the crack, then by inside corner reach the ledge where station is (25 m, V+, 80°).
R3 – R4 (50 m, V, 80°): Climb up by inside corner, then by the wide crack up-left.
R4 – R5: Difficult climbing by the steep wall (30 m, VI, A2, 85°). Further is not so steep rock. Then climb up-right to the tree (20 m, V, 70°). Station is on the tree.
R5 – R6 (60 m, II, 50°): Climb by easy rocks to the summit.

Essential Gear

- Helmet;
- set of Nuts;
- set of Micro Stoppers;
- set of Hexes;
- set of Friends;
- set of Quickdraws;
- Pitons;
- Hammer;

Miscellaneous Info

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