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I believe that button is going to go in between the horn and the fuse box positive lead with one, single positive wire. One end of the wire to the horn, the other end to the fuse box, that button in the middle

One more thing to consider which I think someone else mentioned earlier is to match the fuse size to the components. Most will be between about 3-5, maybe a few 20’s, you can check the owners manual of your devices to get the recommended fuse sizes. Also, you may want to run the VHF radio and your bilge pump directly to the battery with a fuse about 6 inches from the battery post. And keep an assortment of dry, spare fuses in your tool kit. Have fun in Vegas! Hopefully you can win a few BOAT bucks!

One more thing to consider which I think someone else mentioned earlier is to match the fuse size to the components. Most will be between about 3-5, maybe a few 20’s, you can check the owners manual of your devices to get the recommended fuse sizes. Also, you may want to run the VHF radio and your bilge pump directly to the battery with a fuse about 6 inches from the battery post. And keep an assortment of dry, spare fuses in your tool kit. Have fun in Vegas! Hopefully you can win a few BOAT bucks!

My VHF has a inline fuse and is connected to the fuse bloack. My pumps are are connected to a fuse in my switch panel, not sure if that would be adequate? But that is how it was originally wired.

The reasoning why the VHF and bilge pump are recommended to be isolated, and wires straight to the battery is that in the event of a problem or short circuit with your fuse panel, your two most important safety items would still work. You still use the inline fuses, but try to keep the fuse as close to the battery as possible

The reasoning why the VHF and bilge pump are recommended to be isolated, and wires straight to the battery is that in the event of a problem or short circuit with your fuse panel, your two most important safety items would still work. You still use the inline fuses, but try to keep the fuse as close to the battery as possible

Makes sense. I just need to do a little reconfiguring of the bilge and add a fuse near the battery.

As for my VHF radio, it's connected to my fuse block, and not to a inline fuse anymore, as of last night. But I always carry with me a handheld VHF radio, which has a pretty good range, just in case of an emergency.

The reasoning why the VHF and bilge pump are recommended to be isolated, and wires straight to the battery is that in the event of a problem or short circuit with your fuse panel, your two most important safety items would still work. You still use the inline fuses, but try to keep the fuse as close to the battery as possible

Makes sense. I just need to do a little reconfiguring of the bilge and add a fuse near the battery.

As for my VHF radio, it's connected to my fuse block, and not to a inline fuse anymore, as of last night. But I always carry with me a handheld VHF radio, which has a pretty good range, just in case of an emergency.

Thanks again.

My lines are fused directly from the battery using the Blue Seas MRBF fuse holders then from there the acc wire feeds a rear fuse panel (I have a safety hub 150). My second battery switch is after the hub so I have two lines B+ that feed 2 fuse panels one is switch one is not at the helm.

I do not recommend just guessing wire sizes please use the Blue Seas wire wizard.

As for the horn connections they are correct but looking at that switch make sure you install it in a dry location as is dose not look look like the water resistant type.

@Dev, yes definitely they need labels, which I will be doing tomorrow. I have a handheld label printer that I'm going to use to print my labels, but if I don't like the way mine look, I really like the look of the panel labels you posted the link of, those are nice.

It's funny how this hole thing happened. Originally I was only going to take off the black vinyl stickers off the dash boards. But that rolled into upgrading my switch panel, hence my title. But then that rolled into a complete rewire job. At first I was hesitant on doing a rewire, thinking it might be to much to do. But after I cut the first wire, unplugged my switches, and separated the wires, it's wasn't that bad, pretty straight forward.I would say the 2 most difficult things was working in the cuddy and laying on the floor in the back, messing around with the bird nest of wires near the battery, but all worth it.

AJ - great job! That really looks clean. I have been following this thread and other wiring threads as I need a complete rewire, I've done some partial work but I need a complete redo to get rid of the inherited rats nest.Yes, many thanks to the wiring pro's that are sharing their knowledge - it really helps us amateurs that do our own work - we can be dangerous

Fill up your spare fuse holders....hopefully you wont need them though, after 4 years I finally blew a couple down rigger fuses this past year.