Regional Jewish Foods:
Ethiopia

It is said that within the mountain ranges of
Ethiopia one may come across fire-breathing
dragons. The dragons in question are actually
relatively small lizards, and if they do breathe
fire it is probably due to berbere, the most
characteristic ingredient in Ethiopian cookery.

This palate-searing reddish paste, found
in most Ethiopian kitchens and used in preparing
many local specialties, consists of hot red
chili peppers, garlic, ginger, fenugreek,
cardamom, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, white
pepper, salt and turmeric. There are various
traditions that besides adding magnificent
flavor to many traditional dishes, this especially
potent mixture will also add to one's longevity
and cure rheumatism, among other claims.

Of all the cuisines of East Africa, the most
highly developed and the one least exotic
to the Western palate is that of Ethiopia.
It is a style of cookery that has combined
the best principles of the Arab kitchen with
the use of classic African ingredients, such
as peanuts, bananas, rice, coconuts, spinach,
corn and beans.

Ethiopian
Jews, while adhering strictly to the laws
of kashrut,
also made a major contribution to this national
cuisine. Some five hundred years ago, Jewish
merchant families of Addis Ababa introduced
the use of curry powder and other aspects
of Indian cookery; while this might be thought
of as mere sophistication, it produced a culinary
style that is not difficult to admire.

The impact of the Ethiopian
kitchen has started to make itself felt in
Israel.
In Tel
Aviv, Haifa
and Be'er
Sheva, for example, immigrants have opened
restaurants, mostly in the area of the central
bus station. Featuring traditional food in
settings that are comfortable but simple,
it is possible to dine at these places in
goodly fashion for prices that are remarkably
reasonable.

The following traditional recipes, which
will sit comfortably on any Western table,
represent a festive meal that might be found
in an upper-middle class Jewish home in Addis
Ababa as well as throughout Israel.

Heat the oil in a skillet and saute the onions,
nuts and garlic until the onions are translucent.
To this mixture add the green beans, green
pepper, salt and black pepper. Continue to
saute until the beans are tender. Serve hot.

Place all the ingredients in a heavy kettle
and stir together gently. Pour over 6 cups
of boiling water or stock and cook, covered,
over a low flame until the meat is tender
(about 2 hours). Skim occasionally during
the cooking process. After the meat is tender,
remove and discard the tomatoes. Serve hot,
dividing the meat and vegetables equally.

Daniel Rogov is the restaurant
and wine critic for the daily newspaper Ha'aretz.
He is also the senior writer for Wine
and Gourmet Magazine and contributes culinary
and wine articles to newspapers in Europe
and the United States.