What's It Like?

Between the 980 and Webster, and Grand and the 880, you'll encounter hotels from the 1870s converted into offices and shops; the remains of an elegant 1930s Art Deco shopping district; the huge 1980s federal building; and a host of ethnic shops and restaurants. The single biggest influence on Oakland's downtown remains the city's African American community, which has managed to hold its ground in the face of the continual churning of the Oakland economy.

These days, the downtown core appears on the verge of achieving a critical mass of heritage, hipness and housing. There's a slew of newer bars and restaurants, and these have begun to attract crowds from outside of the neighborhood and seem to be in it for the long haul. And the diversity of the people hanging out speaks volumes about Oakland at its best.

There are plenty of diversions old and new to help you while away a morning, afternoon or evening. A surprising number of shops, restaurants and cultural sights unique not only to the city, but the region, thrive here, and it's all within walking distance of two BART stations.

Sights & Culture

African American Museum and Library: This may be the most gorgeous branch library on the planet. The exterior and interior of this 1902 Carnegie have been restored to mint condition, with a grand staircase that leads to a museum and art gallery on the second floor and a beautiful mural featuring African Americans who made an impact on the West and the nation. The extensive reference section contains books, documents and other materials pertaining to general African American history. The Archive Room holds manuscripts, letters, diaries, photos and many other documents that tell the history of African Americans in the Bay Area and Northern California. 659 14th St. (at MLK Jr. Way), (510) 637-0200. ( Web site )

Lafayette Square: This urban park is one with which landscape architect extraordinaire Walter Hood built his repuation. With 150 years behind it, the park has been here longer than almost anything else associated with the city of Oakland. Its current incarnation, designed by Hood and reopened in 1999 , includes tables for the chess and checker players, benches for lunchtime office visitors, and restrooms that welcome the homeless regulars (neighborhood advocates insisted that no one be excluded from using the square ). A large, gently-sloped mound marks the location where the first Chabot Observatory once stood, a mere three blocks from City Hall (the stargazer has since repaired to the Oakland Hills.). Lafayette Square is a great example of a city park design largely for adults, in whatever variation they may appear. 635 11th St. (between 10th and 11th, Jefferson and MLK Jr. Way)

Museum of Children's Art: The mission of MOChA is less about institutionalizing children's creativity than encouraging it. Certainly, art by the thousands of kids who visit MOChA is displayed, but the emphasis is on making it. There are classes, workshops and even art camps where the young 'uns learn how to express themselves in all manner of media. Children 5 and under have their own studio, while the old ones stick to their special atelier. The facilities can also be rented for throwing pint-sized birthday parties. 538 9th St. (between Washington and Clay), (510) 465-8770. ( Web site )

Oakland Ice Center: Two rinks keep the hockey set (read: 18-year-olds who like to slam each other into the wall) safely away from the public and figure skaters in a cheerful, bright space. 519 18th St. (between Telegraph and San Pablo Ave.), (510) 268-9000. ( Web site )

Pardee Mansion : The 1860s mansion, which sits right across the street from Preservation Park, was owned until 1981 by a notable Oakland family that boasts two Oakland mayors and a California governor. The water tower housing the well which served the family is still there, and the interior of the house is just as the family left it. Minor restoration work, mainly to the large and lovely gardens, is under way. Tours are given on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday afternoons. Call ahead to make reservations. 672 11th St. (near MLK Jr. Way), (510) 444-2187. ( Web site )

Preservation Park: A microcosm of Oakland's past, this gated park showcases the city's architectural history with a heavy emphasis on Victoriana. The mansions on the north have always been at this site; the rest were transported here in the '70s from nearby blocks when threatened by demolition. They sat there with their paint peeling until '88, when work started on the Preservation Park that exists today. Now, the facades of all the houses have been restored, and the interiors house nonprofits and community groups. They cluster around a central fountain, and the area is very nicely landscaped. It's fun to stroll; there's a cafe (open weekdays only); and facilities from classrooms to an auditorium are available for rent. You can even get married in front of the bandstand, if that's your flute of champagne. 1233 Preservation Park Way (between 12th and 14th, and Castro and MLK Jr. Way.), (510) 874-7580. ( Web site )

City of Oakland Walking Tours: The City of Oakland offers eight walking tours of the downtown Oakland area, from churches to the 1930s shopping district to Chinatown. They leave Wednesday and Saturday from various locations, May through October. If you just can't wait, there are year-round tours of City Hall. Call (510) 238-3234 for more info and reservations; or visit the City of Oakland Web site .

Paramount Theatre: Oakland's own glorious Art Deco masterpiece. From the moment you walk into the enormously high-ceilinged lobby, gilt bas-reliefs of nymphs and animals dazzle your eyes; it can be hard to bring your focus away from the gazelles and on to the events on stage. Fortunately, the entertainment is often worth your undivided attention -- groups from gospel to comedy to the Oakland East Bay Symphony to Bruce Springsteen can be seen here. There are even silent movies on a truly big screen, with live accompaniment. Tours are given on first and third Saturdays at 10 am for $1; call (510) 893-2300. 2025 Broadway (at 20th St.). ( Web site )

Restaurants

Breads of India: Opened in anticipation of new-condo crowds, this branch of the beloved Berkeley eatery serves regional dishes and to-die-for naan in a space that harkens back to 1930s colonial India. 948 Clay St. (at 10th St.), (510) 834-7684. Closed Sundays. ( Chronicle review )

Bulldog Cafe: Coffee and heavy metal never went so well together as they do at Bulldog Cafe. Occasionally, it's heavy opera. Originally a mainstay of what was known as Oaksterdam (a cluster of spots where medicinal marijuana could be obtained), now it's just fine for a hot cup of espresso or a nice cool Italian soda to rev you up for your tour of downtown Oakland. Sidewalk tables make it easy to watch this corner of the world go by. 1734 Broadway, (no phone).

Caffe 817: Caffe 817 is a narrow, modern room with elegant small tables in the center of Old Oakland. The art changes every other month, and the staff is super nice. Their fine breakfasts and lunches feature treats such as Italian eggwiches, polenta, sandwiches, salads, pizza and daily specials. The ingredients are mainly organic and locally produced, and the coffee is excellent. 817 Washington, (510) 271-7965.

Cock-A-Doodle Cafe: A rooster holding a pot of cheerful gold flowers on the sidewalk announces the arrival of this breakfast, brunch and lunch spot. The omelets, crepes, sandwiches and salads on the menu show Latin touches, like the ceviche salad, Cuban-style seafood burger or the chipotle aioli on the grilled New York steak sandwich. And along with OJ, you can sip a tamarind mimosa -- in the art-bedecked cafe, at a couple of sidewalk tables, or out in the garden patio. 719 Washington St. (between Sixth and Seventh Sts.), (510) 465-5400. ( Chronicle review )

Luka's Taproom and Lounge: There's no place quite like Luka's in Oakland or the East Bay, and very few like it in the Bay Area. You'll find yourself in the company of serious foodies, along with folks who simply know a good dish when they taste one. If your party is four or more, grab one of the generous booths if you can. The food's Continental inclinations are apparent, with mussels and oysters served every which way, cheese plates and chacuterie. When was the last time you saw the phrase "fatted calf" on a menu? The full bar holds its own with 16 beers on tap, and the adjoining lounge actually presents DJs six nights a week. It's the closest to sybarite paradise this town may every get. 2221 Broadway, (510) 451-4607. ( Chronicle Review / Web site )

Pacific Coast Brewing Company: More than your basic brewpub, Pacific Coast has a very full lunch and dinner menu, as well as a wide selection of their own and other high-quality beers. Around two dozen beers are available at any time, including a couple of Belgian lambics. Patio seating available. Dinner is served until 10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 9 p.m. Sunday. 906 Washington St., (510) 836-2739. ( Web site )

Tamarindo Antojeria Mexicana: Small plates and modern takes on Mexican dishes are on the menu at this small but stylish restaurant. Camarones al ajillo are four big, garlicky shrimp on a square plate with cilantro rice. Tamal Oaxaqueno is one plump pork tamale, steamed in a banana leaf. Tamarind adds its tang to grilled vegetables and chicken mole. Mexican crepes with cajeta satisfy small dessert cravings. Breakfast starts in mid-August. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 468 Eighth St. (between Broadway and Washington), (510) 444-1944.

Shopping

A-1 Fish Market: To the uninitiated passer-by, A-1 Fish Market looks like, well, a fish market. Get a little closer, however, and you'll realize that A-1 sells not fish but the tackle for catching (and, of course, releasing) them. It's a nice story: the Yamagata family has operated A-1 since '46. In '84, bitten by the angling bug, they added the fly-fishing store to the existing fish market, and a few years later went 100% angler. If you've ever felt a strong urge to stand up to your hips in freezing water for hours, using bits of feather to try to outsmart finny fish, this is the spot for you. 517 8th St., (510) 832-0731.

Bibliomania: A very large, clean used bookstore. Bibliomania has something for all sorts of people: Upstairs, works about social movements, radicalism and black and women's studies are collected and catalogued every two months or so; while the general bookstore downstairs includes first editions, military and political science titles, sets of reference works, and a children's section featuring old-style books you might recall from your childhood. 1816 Telegraph, (510) 835-5733. ( Web site )

The Bookmark Bookstore: Run by the Friends of the Oakland Public Library and benefiting the Library's many fine programs, this shop has the feeling of an old-fashioned independent bookstore. The high ceiling and packed shelves, the musty smell of old books appreciated by literature lovers everywhere, and the site in Old Oakland, make a trip here seem like time travel. Recent bestsellers, unusual older editions, postcards, videos -- there's plenty of browsing here for all types of bibliophile. 721 Washington St., (510) 444-0473.

De Lauer's Super Newsstand: Open 24/7, De Lauer's has a well-deserved reputation for carrying newspapers and magazines you won't find anywhere else in the Bay Area. For starters, the shop tries to carry a newspaper for every state in the union. It also carries international newspapers; magazines on every subject known to humanity; paperback bestsellers, mysteries, science fiction, romances and classics; Cliff's Notes; reference works from dictionaries to SAT practice tests; sodas; cigars; and more. The downside is the atmosphere: the walls, floors and lighting are yellow, and there's an oft-present unofficial welcoming crew on the sidewalk outside. 1310 Broadway, (510) 451-6157.

Farmers' Market: In Old Oakland; combine a Friday visit with a trip to Ratto's for a three-dimensional gourmet experience. This farmers' market serves shoppers coming over from Chinatown with a good selection of Asian vegetables. Some prepared foods as well. Friday, 8 am-2 pm, Ninth and Broadway; (510) 745-7100. ( Web site )

G.B. Ratto & Co. International Grocers: Ratto's has been around for over a century, but seems uniquely suited to provide for today's quality- and novelty-obsessed cooks. They sell the wares found at most Italian delis (pasta, sauces, cold cuts, cheeses, olives, breads, sweets and excellent deli sandwiches), plus more exotic items from around the world such as North African harissa, Indian spice pastes and forbidden black rice from China. Pasta, grains, beans, spices and flour are all available in bulk, and their house label wine vinegars and olive oil are some of the best around. Tantalizing and mysterious kitchen gadgets abound. 821 Washington St., (510) 832-6503.

Lucky's Barbershop: Old school meets street cool at Lucky's. African American hair can have it all with the menu of styles and cuts that includes fades, Afros, lines and braids. If the Lucky crew can't do it, no one can. 948 Clay St., (510) 836-LUCK.

The Hat Guys: This is where your search for the perfect topper will begin and end. The owners say they have the largest hat inventory on the West Coast, and you won't argue with that claim once you step inside. With hats here, there and everywhere, it's hard to see the fedoras for the porkpies. There's every style in every size. Really. 1764 Broadway, (510) 834-6868. ( Web site )

Nightlife

Cafe Van Kleef: When cool comes to Oakland, it looks a lot like this place. Neither a cafe or a bistro, as it is sometimes described, Cafe Van Kleef is a bar. Locals looking for a genial, eclectic atmosphere inevitably end up stopping by for after work drinks or later for live music. Paintings, architectural elements and an assortment of thrift shop treasures decorate the place. While food is not served, you're welcome to bring in your take-out. 1621 Telegraph Ave., (510) 763-7711. Chronicle article: Cafe Van Kleef takes on a life of its own

Radio Bar: If you need a place to meet friends before you go clubbing, or if you want to hang out all night with a mellow crowd in a nice setting, head for Radio Bar. The bartenders know their way around a shot glass and a shaker, and the location half a block from BART means you don't have to drive if you want to see just how well they perform their duties. Weekends shake as DJs provide tunes sans cover charge. 435 13th Avenue, (510) 451-2889.

The Ruby Room: If Cafe Van Kleef is the essence of Oakland cool, then the Ruby Room is the epitome of Bay Area hip. The young and the nicotine-addicted hang out here to swap stories about their art, their tats, their day jobs, and their hangovers past, present and future. In the ruby glow of the lighting and furnishings, what could be more entertaining? 132 14th Street, (510) 444-7224.

Z Cafe & Bar: A car dealership may not seem the most inviting location for a bar-restaurant, but expansive windows, high ceilings and tile floors make this space sign. Come for happy hour (5 to 7 p.m.) and join the locals downing fruity variations on the vodka martini. 2735 Broadway (near 27th St.), (510) 663-2905. ( Chronicle review )