The vertical rudder does not stow out of the way like the T-n-S. Since I trailer my boat, that is not a problem. Depending on the mode of transportation, some may have to take the pin out and bungee/strap it on the stern.

Unfortunately the new pin is furnished with a split ring.

Not the easiest thing to get on and off, including installation at sea if the pin did break . Questions:

1. Have there been any validated instances where the new pins broke?

2. Have other alternatives to the split ring been tried for example a cotter pin?

3. When you remove the pin to store the rudder bungied to the hull is there enough slack in the steering lines to do so without great difficulty? Are any removal tricks required?

We had 6 AI/TIs do a down wind run on the 4th from Muanalua Bay, past Diamond Head and down to Sand Island. Lots of new rudders and no pins broke, I believe in the past it has been a pin snapper, just some feed back...

No broken pin stories have surfaced round here or at the Hobie Dealership. Some folks have dislodged their truncheon or had other failures. Keep an eye on those AKA joints and mast braces.

I have stainless cotter pins I bought for a backup stainless rudder pin on the 2007. I think it will do a better job than the ring and still clear the transom, to prevent gouging. WIll let you know. Or you could just use a zip tie and cut it when needed.

Pulling the new rudder pin on land is no big deal now and requires no tools. Replacing a pin on the water works best when you twist the rudder all the way to one side, creating maximum slack in the steering lines. The rudder housing lines up easily with the mount compared to the old models. Just uncleat the up/down lines first.

Having to Jump overboard in blue water to repair the rudder may now be a thing of the past!

My split ring rolled away somewhere in my storage room never to be seen again. So I ended fabricating a clip from spare #26 SS wire I had in my tackle box. Ghetto but the bigger profile makes it easier to handle during setup/breakdown. Will post pics when I'm back home this weekend.

As you see, it's a bit too long and contacts the rudder in the rear facing position.

When you reverse it, there is more room, but it slightly contacts the drain plug.

The solution was to remove the last section with a hacksaw or powered blade. (The stainless is tough to cut through). Tighten it to taste by crimping. Slips on and off easily, but it's not going anywhere on it's own.

I am setting in a motel in Sheridan, Wyoming (near the Montana border) and can't give any advice. In fact, I hope you fellows have all the problems worked out before I get back to Miami in November. (We are headed up to Glacier National Park, where we will spend a few weeks.)

Keith

_________________"Don't kid yourselves, sharks are everywhere in the Everglades" Chekika

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

Keith - Answered my own question yesterday in my new rudder tests. I sailed through a bunch of shallow reefs yesterday and tried it in different positions.

This approach has problems.

1. Cocking the rudder at any angle other than straight down has the effect of lengthening its trailing surface and this loads up the rudder. The net effect: the rudder becomes very stiff and hard to turn. What a drag.

2. The AI turns to weather very quickly like this. Even with the sail depowered or reefed, it turns upwind too easily.

3. With the rudder partially raised, the up line is too short to reach the cleat. You need to hold it, extend it or use a different cleat.

If anyone has better luck, let me know.

On the positive side, the new rudder has great turning power. Maybe a little too much. It seemed twitchy at times I found I was making a lot of micro adjustments (and over-corrections) that were not needed with the large T&S. I may try loosening the lines a bit but I always kept taught lines on the old rudder.

Upwind sailing and reaches seemed faster and effortless in any gust. Tacking was easier with little or no pedal assist. Downwind no difference, except a little of the over-correction. It "heaves to" nicely as others have noted.

Surfing 2-4 ft waves was terrific, though I never got in a real grinder. The ability to tack quickly and powersail (into or across the waves) helps you get into position, and stay out of trouble.

Thanks for the share. With only about a year of experience with the T&S, it was difficult for me to notice a drastic difference with the new Hobie rudder. The new rudder did perform well in marginal seas but so did the old T&S in more experienced sailing hands (Kelly going solo on an TI). Definitely welcome the positive feel when tacking with the new rudder and not having to worry about the published issues of the old T&S. Hoping it'll be a matter of sailing experience before I'll be able to easily make regular runs to the FAD's.

Here's a pic of the clip I'm using to replace the split ring. It's made of thicker stainless steel wire (#26 Malin wire). Used it to store my TI after an outing but it hasn't been tested in the water yet.

If your local tackle shop does not carry thick gauged SS wire, I know a fellow fisherman who prefers using SS welding rods for rigging. So a welding shop might be a possible supply source of thick gauged ss wire for you.