FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUM....

For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

This is a short warmup in the middle of the giant tower on the right side of the arena. The route is about 55 feet - it looks miniscule since it only goes a third of the way up the tower. A second pitch may be added in the future. Above the anchors, the wall goes quite blank - the potential second pitch here will be sick thin. The route starts off slightly overhanging on good rock with big holds.The first clip is a little spooky but reasonable - bring a stick clip if you want to avoid being scared.

3 or 4 bolts of nice 10a climbing lead to a reachy 10+ section that diagonals up and left, culiminating with some of the most incredible chickenhead grips I've ever pulled on.

From here, begin an 11a sequence (maybe a shade harder than most 11a moves) on small holds involving some high stepping and good footwork.

Rich, I understand your comment concerning the length of the route, but even though the route is only 55 feet, the climbing is pretty fun for the whole way. In particular, the first 3-5 bolts are quite fun...not unreasonable at 2-3 stars.

That said, the bolts on this thing need some love. I didn't have my wrench with me, so I could not deal with it myself, but folks should know that there are at least two bolts that for sure have spinner hangers...and one of them might even be completely loose (including the sleeve).