Fraiche

4.9

Thoroughly modern fine dining that's a thrill a minute.

Marc Wilkinson's restaurant, just over the river from Liverpool in Oxton, is Merseyside's best. It has a Michelin star, and Wilkinson goes to the edge of technological possibility and back to bring his very personal and exciting dishes to the handful of tables in the dining room. He works alone a lot of the time, like a cloistered genius.

Food and drink

5

90%

Service

4.8

90%

Food and drink

5

90%

Value for money

4.8

90%

Ambience

4

90%

Location

4

90%

Food and drink

Where to start? Wilkinson describes his food as modern French. He combines an instinctive knowledge of what works well together (like his bonbon of sweetbreads with smoked olives and apple textures) with an insatiable urge to mix it up a bit, drying some things, powdering or liquefying others. He doesn't meddle for its own sake; dishes taste great as well as being fascinating, surprising or puzzling.

Recommended dishes

If you're offered any little foodie gifts, like caramelised spiced nuts, take them. To find out what Fraiche will be serving next, try a Sunday night, when Wilkinson showcases new and seasonal dishes such as artichoke with hen's egg and smoked nut.

Ambience

The restaurant is small (which makes booking essential) and can be hushed, but it's not too stiff.

Service

The staff know each dish well and are able to advise on wine to match.

Location

Fraiche isn't in the centre of Liverpool, but any cabbie will take you through the tunnel to its location in well-heeled Oxton.

Price advice

Tasting menus are from £45 to £65. I think that although it's probably special occasion territory, it's great value for the quality of ingredients and the work that goes into the meal.