I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

If you skip to STEP 36, you’ll see that you’ll need a STANDOFF SCREWDRIVER BIT to be able to get all the way to Step 39 and remove the antenna. Read through the comments, and you’ll see how frustrated people have gotten since my kit didn’t include the Standoff screwdriver, and I had to dig around for and carefully use a flathead, which took a very long time. If you can’t get that Standoff screw off, you’ll end up with a partially disassembled iPhone and unable to progress. Make sure you have this tool before you proceed.

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

Before you remove any screws, please consider taking your part to a local repair pro and asking them to install it. The many cables connecting the screen assembly to the body of the iPhone are unruly and hard to reconnect. I knicked a cable and thus rendered the entire assembly and repair unfixable. I consider myself capable and tech savvy, but it’s too easy to make a tiny mistake and ruin your phone.

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

Well, my glass immediately and easily shattered. The only reason I’m attempting this is because Apple didn’t have time and the kids at Best Buy, while they accepted my appointment, admitted they had no idea how to actually do it. So… I’m off to Apple to spend a gazillion dollars I don’t have on a new iPhone.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

Yes! I wish I had read this before working on my phone. I read the instructions as they are and slowly started to open the case. This is when I heard my screen crack. So in the future, slowly open and when you are about 40% of the way, pull the screen forward so that the top clips pull away (we are talking a cm at most). Sigh just ordered a new screen

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

@michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

100% agree. Step 13-19 are totally unnecessary and just adds the risk of breaking the display connector. “Don’t disassemble stuff that doesn’t need disassembling.” Just ensure there’s no strain on the display cable when removing the battery, i.e. by placing the phone on a non-slippery rubbery surface and fix the display to something sturdy with rubber bands.

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

@sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

Bottom left 1.2 screw assembly broke off from the mother board and now my phone will not power up . Can there be another reason for the phone not switching on . How important to the function of the phone is the broken screw assembly ?

The phone will power on and work just fine without any of the screws in this particular step—the screws are for securing the bracket and keeping the connectors from popping out. I’m not sure what your issue could be, but a missing screw isn’t it! I’d probably start by reseating all the connections and giving it another try. Check the board carefully for damage. Try posting your question in our Answers forum with all the details and you may be able to get some troubleshooting help there. Good luck!

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

Thank you Simon - this was really helpful. I too suspected I had broken the digitizer connector also. Tried reconnecting 5 times before I saw your comment with resulting white lines and no touch screen. Applied moderate gentle force using long nose tweezer across width of connection and clicked and worked. Glad I read the comments as was looking at new digitizer purchase prior to reading your comment.

Before you start on the battery, jump ahead to step 27. Click the "this guide" and read and watch the video. Then come back and start on the battery. The adhesive strips are difficult the first time. They work like 3M Command Strips products, if you've ever used those. Stretching them lengthwise makes them release.

My phone did not have the tabs or peel off adhesive. I had the pry, yes pry, the battery out of the phone while heating it. The battery was glued in place and came out shaped like a banana. I’m just glad it did not puncture during the process. On the plus side, I didn’t need to install the new adhesive pad, as it looked like that is what was in there, and they were still sticky. As I think back, this phone was replaced by Verizon under warranty, and they gave me a refurbished phone. I bet it already had a repair battery in it…

I suggest removing the vibrator before attempting to remove the adhesive strips. It makes the process much easier. I broke both tabs following this step and recovered both the strips by removing the vibrateor and using a tweezers and fingers to pull the remaining strip. I grabbed a corner of the strip underneath the battery and pulled very gently until I was able to recover the entire width of the strip. This required holding the corner of the strip with my fingers and using the tweezers to grab the stip closer to the battery, allowing me to grab more width.

This should be a required Step in this guide. I've replaced two batteries now, one without removing the vibrator, and it took me about a half hour of using a blow dryer because I ripped the adhesive strips. Removing the vibrator allows for the "down-right" / "down-left" pulling of the strips MUCH MORE EASILY - just removed both without any problems...no blow dryer needed now!

I did this but it doesn't charge. I'm concerned that I may not have attached the new battery cable properly. It didn't snap into place very well. It looked as if the new cable had some plastic that may have been blocking the connectors I'm not sure how snug it's supposed to go on. It definitely did not click into position the way the screen cables clicked in. Anyway, I connected as best I could and put the metal cover on and it doesn't work. Was I supposed to do something to the new battery's cable connector so that it would connect better?

My phone had some water damage and I was hoping that replacing the battery would solve the problem.

Hi TJE, you won't be able to follow every step exactly in revers ;) You can buy the strips here, iPhone 6/6s/7 Battery Adhesive Strips, or just use a piece of double-sided tape. For the adhesive strips, just peel off one layer of the backing, align the strips as they were in step 20, press them onto the battery and remove the outer backing, and put it in the phone, making sure the connector can attach to its socket, then head up to step 19 attach the connector etc.

The strips need more instruction/picture. As soon as I tried to peel the top layer the strips stuck to each other and created a mess. I salvaged part of the strip, but not pretty. Used double sided tape. Much easier.

AGREED! I bought the iFixit kit and this instructional is great, for sure... buuuuut it really would have been nice to see how you guys apply the new battery adhesive. I had no idea and just about botched mine. Thankfully I figured it out before it was a total loss.

Heat helps. Got lucky pulling both out full length from the bottom. A few minutes with a hair dryer prepped the aluminum case to surrender the stretchy sticky tabs. Be sure to click the tape install link so that you apply the new double sticks correctly. I also 'dry fitted' the battery first to see where the connector lined up. With the battery all the way at the top of the opening, the connector took a bit of effort to align. With strips attached, I allowed some space and the connector fell into place.

We recommend readhering the battery to the rear case with some form of adhesive. You don't have to use the adhesive strips we sell, but if your battery is just bouncing around inside the case you risk damage to the cell itself or the ribbon cable. There's also circuitry at the lower edge of the battery that is not meant to take a lot of abuse. It's not likely that your battery will explode, but it could become damaged and leak, or stop working prematurely.

I didn't secure the battery with anything and after completing the installation, my battery bounces around inside the phone. Personally, I don't see any problems with this and if anything, it gives my iphone 6 a haptic touch type feel :) I'll let you know if it explodes.

Be careful when placing the new battery. The compartment is a little bigger than the battery, but the cable to the connector is pretty stiff. I had to do some serious adjusting of the cable to get the connector to align. I suggest connecting the connector before laying down the battery.

I was able to pull the right strip completely out just from the bottom of the battery. Pull straight out with a low angle (just slightly above the black chip so it doesn't get caught or break) and the adhesive will pull right out. There's no need to go around the sides of the battery unless the adhesive is dry and not flexible. If the adhesive is very flexible, you'll be able to pull it out very easily as long as you take your time and are careful. It also helped that I started with 100% battery and drained down to under 25%, so the iphone was very warm from doing this and that helped make it very easy to pull the adhesive out. I did not need a warming kit, I just used the heat from using the iphone to drain the battery before shutting it down for the repair!

I managed to pull the strips out without using any heat. I pulled maybe 25 degrees from the vertical, carefully avoiding the metallic parts around. However, after starting to pull with an even pressure, and seeing that the strip was stretching without coming out, I found that it helped if I gave small, repeated tugs, rather delicate but abrupt. This way I could actually hear the strip pulling out from under the battery, with a rubbery vibrating sound. It must have taken maybe 100 small tugs for each strips but they came out easily. Also, as the extracted part got too long, I held it with the other hand and grabbed it again further down the exposed portion, to always have a shorter section to pull on.

Pulling straight down towards the bottom of the phone at a small angle worked well for me. I highly recommend taking your time to prevent breakage. I think I spent over 8 minutes on each strip just slowly stretching it out so it would not break. Just keep it straight and dont twist. I was able to remove both strips intact and thus did not need to pry the battery. Because I was able to do this method, I left the screen attached and saved a few steps (I was not trying to save time, just did not want to create additional problems by removing and reconnecting various ribbons). I think slow and steady will be your best friend. I did not heat up the adhesive or case.

This is a straight up BS instruction - both of my strips broke IMMEDIATELY. I ended up with a blow dryer, dental floss, credit card and about a half hour of swearing. This step needs to be re-written\improved.

Sorry you had such a tough time. I’ve had them break on me instantly as well. Unfortunately that can’t be fixed with better instructions—sometimes the strips get brittle and practically disintegrate when pulled. I’m not sure if it’s an issue with the strips degrading over time, heat/moisture, manufacturing tolerances, or something else—it seems a bit random and it’s definitely frustrating when it happens. That’s why we have the additional instructions for the card, floss, etc. Better luck next time I hope ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Same thing just happened to me. Had to use a guitar string and slid it underneath along with heating and prying with a card. My phone is about 4 years old though so it was expected as the adhesive dries out and becomes incredibly hard to remove. Even after the battery was out I had to scratch constantly at the adhesive to get it off the body.

I would definitely recommend heating the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes prior to this step. The first time I tried pulling the first strip, it broke off almost instantly. I then heated the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes and was able to remove the 2nd strip as described in the instructions above. I was then able to retrieve the 1st strip using a pair of tweezers and remove it as described above.

The first white strip ripped right off before any of it pulled loose. I was extra careful with the second one and got 2/3 of it off before it broke. Heating the back side of the phone probably would have helped. I didn’t think there was any hope of getting the battery out until I read the comments here. Here is what I did, I took an iron and used it to heat up a 5 lb metal weight so it would stay warm for a while. I put the phone on the heated weight to keep it warm. I took dental floss and worked it under the battery to try and work the white strip loose. At the same time I used a plastic credit card/door key to work the battery up from the side. I eventually worked the plastic card under the back edge and worked my way deeper in until I was able to get it loose. When I got it loose it looked like the white strip was wadded up underneath the battery. I don’t think I had a chance of getting the strips up by just pulling.

Both my strips broke at about 5-10 cm of pulling. Heart sank. I repeated the following: heat from hair dyer for about 1 min until the case was hot to touch, IKEA card edge to pry the battery along its length, reheating when the case cooled. Moved onto a stiffer/ thicker credit card type item once I could get it under the battery. Took me about 20-25 mins but with new confidence it could easily be done in 10 minute; I erred on caution since first time. I just used two 3 mm wide strip of double sided tape to secure the battery. Once i removed the film I heated up the case once again the soften the new adhesive before placing the battery. Working fine.

Just broke the two strips of double sided tape. Look at the pictures well here. Pull the strips out a long way (i.e. the length of the battery or more) before you try to move them around the sides of the battery. One they are pulled out that far, becareful as you try to manurer them around the batter as they are now fragile and can break / tear easily. I was able to use a very thin flexible but strong ID card to wedge under the battery and with some effort (careful effort) I was able to pry the tape from under the battery. Half of the tape was still too strong and the battery came out with half of the battery casing left on the bottom case of the phone. Very strong tape the original tape

2 - iPhone 6 devices to replace batteries on. First was a total MESS! Strips broke - immediately! After much gentle prying, plastic cards, blue picks and dental floss, I got the bloody thing out! Second iPhone, I came at it differently. Used my iOpener (heater) to warm the whole phone for about 40 minutes. Peeled up the black “top edge” of the first strip, and it was then I noticed the top side white adhesive is NOT connected to the bottom side. Only the black film makes the connection on the factory battery. I was very gentle with that tab - until I saw the white strip start to appear from under the battery. I then became MUCH more deliberate with my pulling. No going back in (sticky stuff gets stuck on the battery edge) just smooth, steady pulling of the (warm) strip. As about an inch was exposed, I replaced my pulling fingers back near the edge of the battery without allowing any slack. More and more adhesive came out, and each time I repositioned my grasp. Finally - snap, and the strip was gone!

The iFixit youtube video (www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtK7b_pqnCU) shows a method of pulling the adhesive around the bottom, side, and top of the battery. I did this for the first adhesive. The one caution with that approach is that, as you’re pulling the adhesive, it could get caught on surrounding components and that could cause a break if you’re not careful. For the second adhesive I pulled it only in the direction away from the bottom of the phone (as shown in Step 21) and that was MUCH simpler. As you’re pulling the adhesive, even if a slight tear occurs in the process, keep at it with a slow and steady motion to remove as much as you can. Thankfully the adhesive strips came off completely in my repair.

That was fun!! I removed the volume side adhesive strip first. It broke immediately, but I was able to get it started again with the tweezers. It came right out. The inside strip was another story. It also broke immediately and I couldn’t get it started again with tweezers or anything. Since the volume side strip was out I used the black spudger tool to slowly start wedging the battery up and then I used a gift card to work the battery the rest of the way out. The gift card was not as thick as a credit card but was stiff enough to work the adhesive without bending the battery too much.

First adhesive (component side) broke during removal, but enough of it was hanging out to finish the job. 2nd strip (vol side) broke and snapped so far back I couldn't retrieve any part for pulling. HOWEVER, I proceeded with wedging a health care card, which is more flexible and thinner than credit card, and continued to push the adhesive from component side to edge of case. Once I have gotten enough adhesive bunched up and battery is showing signs of being lifted slightly, with health care card still in place, carefully swap a credit card and continue to leverage battery out slowly. (I did all of this without taking sceeen off, so be careful and do it at your own risk)

The correct way of taking off the adhesive is not how it's shown in the picture (that is exacly how I broke both strips): it should be pulled out by tearing it away and right (to the speaker direction) and as flat as possible, and as the strip grows thinner move up but still pulling "down-right" until all comes out, same movement: " down-left" for the left strip

just wanted to comment i followed this method and found it to be the easiest. as i got more and more adhesive out, i wrapped the excess around my finger like you would do with excess dental floss to keep the firm grip. worked perfectly. the total job was roughly 5-7 minutes from the first screw to the last.

Highly recommend using your iphone to do high power consumption tasks before shutting it down. This will warm the inside of the iphone and warm the adhesive strips. Doing this allows you to very easily pull the right adhesive strip completely out from the bottom of the battery. I just pulled straight out at a low angle and kept pulling until the strip was completely removed. You do need to take your time and be careful, pull slowly and it will eventually come out completely. If it is dry and not flexible, you'll will most likely fail, so make sure the inside of the iphone was warmed prior to starting your repair.

The white "Command" type adhesive band broke, but was able to reach it with tweezers in the First Aid kit. Winding the adhesive around the tweezers with gentle tension allowed me to pull it all out and then the battery was "free".

Pull the strip out and down toward the speaker as much as you can. Don't rush trying to pull it around the corner of the battery. I did this on the first one and it ripped. On the second one I pulled it down/straight as much as possible and it came off easily. The earlier comment is correct about the picture not being the right way to pull the strips.

The 2nd one did break loose on me, but I was able to pick it up with the sweet tweezers provided with the Repair Tools kit. It took a few tries, but I was able to snag an edge and pull the strip back successfully.

Before you put in the new battery (with the new adhesive strips on it), be sure to bend the pre-bend the battery connector cable!!!! (In the same pattern as the old battery!!!!) Will save you a big headache when trying to reconnect the battery connector cable.

I agree with Jonathan MacIntyre . Heat the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes prior to do this and the strips come off much easier! I didn’t heat it at first and I almost broke off the first strip. (I was able to recover it later on with the tweezers after heating it with a heating pad.) The strips came out much easier after heating!

I wish I'd read Christa's comment beforehand. I didn't and started the process just fine, then both strips broke. I used a hairdryer multiple times to make progress melting the strips and wedging out the battery. Using a credit card alone (and then a credit card plus floss) wasn't enough. I used a cheese knife (carefully) for more leverage and that made the difference.

You don't need the iopener or a hair dryer. I put rice in a sock, rubber banded the top closed, microwaved for 40 seconds and placed it under the phone. It worked like a charm and allowed me to work on the battery while keeping the adhesive warm.

The bad news was that the adhesive strip ripped on the logic-board side. The good news is that recovery was not as difficult as I thought. By using a hair dryer, and some very patient wedging with a credit card, I was able to separate the battery from the adhesive, and then remove it. Some simple cleanup with tweezers got the adhesive sticking to the case. Just make sure you get it right on the edge side, or this technique will be a lot harder to pull off.

I screwed up the peeling part but I managed to get it through with a credit card.

Important, do not force the card down. Just take your time pushing and moving the card left and right. When the battery was up I just kept going with my hand, reeeeeally slowly and with constant force (so that it peels off the remaining straps).

The left side adhesive strip broke where I couldnt reach it. I tried dental floss but it wasnt strong enough in my case to cut through the adhesive, but I had 20lb fishing line that I had used to remove an emblem from a car and that worked well. I think the key is to pull the adhesive strips nearly straight down and not to the side.

Both adhesive tabs broke for me. I ended up starting with the hairdryer then trying floss and then a plastic card which was too flimsy. In the end I used the plastic wedging tool to pry the battery up and hold it there. With the battery raised, on the side closest to the phone edge I was able to scrape the adhesive strip together enough with the tweezers and then my fingers to pull at it laterally stretching it so that it came away in one piece. The battery was slightly dented and bent, but not punctured at this point. The second strip near the logic board was much higher and necessitated bending the battery much more and just holding it there. I couldn't get the battery up enough for fear of a puncture so I just held it there as the adhesive slowly detached itself and in the end the battery just popped free. Not sure if the warming from the hair dryer made any difference.

This part is where I almost gave up. The strips broke, I tried to pry it out, then I heated the back with a hair dryer. I used an ID card and got under it and shimmied left and right until the battery was able to break look from the strips. Afterwards the battery was bent which concerned me it could just break. At this point I realized, yes, Apple does not want you to get in their phones. After it came out all went well and was glad to have finished this.

Be careful if you have failed to pull out the adhesive near logic board. Since the cable responsible for power button and mic near the back cam lays above apple’s logo plate, when you pull out the battery with logo plate sticked with it, you may damage the cable. Mine cable was damaged in this way.

I too found that fishing line, specifically 10 lb test Fireline braid fishing line, is an excellent alternative to floss or wire due to its strength and small diameter. I tied washers on each end using a Palomar note to provide a secure grip.

A bit of bending is probably fine as long as you are planning to replace the battery. Don't try to reuse a bent battery. In any case, try not to bend it any more than necessary, as bending increases the risk of fire.

It can take a little while. If it doesn't power on after a little more time has gone by, open your phone back up and double-check your cable connectors. If that doesn't work, try plugging in your old battery to see if it behaves the same way. If you continue to have problems, drop a post in our Answers forum for more detailed troubleshooting. Good luck!

It depends on your experience level. If you don't successfully remove both pull tabs, it's much easier to pry the battery out if the screen isn't connected. Most professionals probably leave the screen connected to save some time but we recommend beginners remove the screen to minimize the risk of damaging the display's ribbon cables.

You should add the final step of connecting the battery cable and finishing the install. I followed these steps and my phone is dead and no longer works, so not sure if I connected the battery cable incorrectly. It doesn't secure as tight as the original was, but there is no guidance in this guide on how to reinstall it. The youtube videos skip past the final steps too.

@jaybytez Sorry you're having trouble! Installation for the most part is just the reverse of removal. There's a link in the final step and the conclusion for how to install new adhesive strips and stick the battery down. To reconnect the battery to the logic board, just position the connector over its socket and press gently until it clicks into place. Same goes for all the other connectors. I'd suggest going through the guide a second time and checking your work carefully. If you're not sure whether the battery is connecting correctly, try the old battery again for comparison. If you continue to have trouble, reach out to our customer support team or try posting your issue in the Answers forum. Good luck!

If you are only directly interested in the current instructional steps for iPhone 6 battery replacement, please know that this 4-part comment simply upvotes/supports Jay's post above. (4-parts needed as ran up against the character limit for this box.)

This is a commentary on this specific guide, yes, but it really applies to all guides I've read so far on iFixit, so I am not critiquing the author per se. This turned into a global recommendation for possible improvement in the fundamental approach that iFixit takes in writing ALL of the guides.

I agree with Jay 100% and I think the iFixit community would benefit tremendously if this suggestion were taken more seriously, namely that reassembly should be addressed as a separate instruction. Here is my further claim:

Reassembly is NEVER simply following disassembly instructions in reverse order.

If you tend to disagree with my statement, simply try dragging the included YouTube video in reverse. Then try to follow that along while reassembling your phone. As just one example, see if you have great success reconnecting the battery connector to the logic board using the opening tool in the same manner as you used it during disassembly. Heck, try using the opening tool in a different manner if you like, but go ahead and reattach the connector using the opening tool. It is even called an “opening” tool - the very name of the tool shows you that it would NOT be included in a reversal of the instructions. That would require a “closing” tool. In this case, the “closing” tool is actually wisely recommended to be our fingers, applying gentle pressure, and in one case (I believe it was for the display connector) even pressing on the connector in a very particular manner (not much in the middle).

If you still question my claim that reassembly is never simply following disassembly instructions in reverse, it might be a very interesting exercise to record yourself actually reassembling the item (you already have the cameras present and rolling anyway, why not for a little while longer?). If you did that, and watched the assembly video side by side with the disassembly, you will quickly see all the many differences there are. I imagine that would be all it would take to convince "the powers that be" at iFixit that it would be a very good recommendation to authors that they complete the full round trip. Alternately, as I said, you could simply watch any of the current videos in reverse while actually performing reassembly, and could then at least add notes to existing content regarding the differences (as was done with the display connector NOTE found in this article above - I thought that was a really nice touch, BTW).

In closing, I really, really like iFixit, so I hope this recommendation is helpful and I hope it is received as such, as constructive criticism. Just trying to make iFixit even better, on its way to becoming an indispensable resource to all. :-)

@spacemanspiff2 As you seem to have noticed, there are reassembly bullets sprinkled throughout each guide specifically to mark the areas where additional instructions are provided for reassembly. Hence the qualifier, “Installation for the most part is just the reverse of removal.” When it’s not, reassembly tips are added to the appropriate step. In those cases where more is needed, you’ll find reassembly steps or even a full-blown reassembly guide.

Pre-bend the new battery connector cable! If doing this again I would make sure I had pre-bent the connector cable the same way as the original battery is bent. I did not and then once the new battery was glued down I could not get at it well to bend it properly. I had to wedge the extra cable in a bit and then the very small extra thickness left a small color distortion on the screen due to the additional pressure on the back of the display.

I’m sorry to hear about the trouble. If you ordered just the battery and not the Fix Kit option, then the adhesive strips are not included and are sold separately. This is mentioned on the product page. If you’re still in need, you can find them right here: iPhone 6/6s/7 Battery Adhesive Strips

However, the battery should still technically perform just fine for you without the adhesive strips, as these are primarily used to keep the battery structurally adhered to the inside of the phone. If you are mindful of how well you handle your device (ie: Don’t throw it across the room, or go running with it in your hand), you shouldn’t have too much to worry about. Otherwise, it would be best to replicate the way the batteries come in all iPhones and get yourself a set of adhesive strips.

I agree with the comment about pre-bending the cable first. I didn’t look close enough at the original battery and it looked like the replacement battery had a completely different cable. Then I realized that the cable turned up 180 degrees and then bent over 90 degrees.

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Ok so battery extraction went a little bad and ended up cutting into old battery. When I pulled it out it was smoking a little. Got new battery put in and everything back screwed. It's charging up now (I'm assuming the battery is shipped dead) so heres hoping I didn't kill my phone.

I strongly recommend following ALL of the steps as shown. The cables are extremely fragile and can tear easily. It will only add about 5 minutes or so to the project, but could save hours and dollars. Also, take your time removing the battery adhesive strips. If they break off underneath the battery, they are a bear to get out.

I left the display attached. I made a stage for the phone using the Amazon box the phone shipped in. Cut off most of four sides of the box, leaving the bottom and one end. Left enough of two sides to keep the end upright, Then I set the phone in my stage, taped the display at 90° to the upright box end, and proceeded with the replacement. No issues. Maybe helpful hint: Make sure you know exactly how to place the new battery before applying the adhesive. If you stick it in too high, you won't get the cable connected. I needed to form my cable to get it plugged in and was glad I did a trial run before sticking everything in place.

you most likely disconnected the small little cable next to the battery cable that is for wifi on accident simple solution open it up then remove the plate that covers the bat connector there are 2 cables that sit staged the one on the bottom of the phone is alinged to the right the one on the top is to the left in the lower left corner below the battery cable there is a small wire sitting right next to the second connector the one aligned to the right you could have bumped it when you popped the bat cable out

Please be very careful on removing the battery, i accidentally broke one trying to take it off with a metal tool and it was about to burn. So today I've taken another on off, but i bent it, and as well seems that is warming up. I guess the right way to do this job is using the iopener. Thanks.

Talk about a Mission just to replace a battery!!! Gawd....this tutorial makes me appreciate my Galaxy even more; simply slide the back cover off, pull out the old battery (with a finger nail...gasssp!), put the new battery in, slide the back cover on, charge and you're back in business.

One strip snapped on me, so I ended up using the hairdryer, which is oke, but stay patient!! It took a while before the heat really went into the adhesive ( because you can't get the phone to hot - and you can't bent the battery to force its release - so here is where the patience kicks in). Then assembling back you need tremble free hands to get the connectors back in but those are about the only two challenges I faced. I got it back on and everything works perfect! Geert

I replaced my battery without the iSlack & the iOpener. Steps 22 and 23 are definitely the most difficult. The left adhesive strip broke immediately, and I had to reach under the battery with tweezers to pull out enough adhesive to grab onto to finish the job.

The kit came with some black double-sided adhesive, and I cut off some small strips to secure the replacement battery with a small amount wrapped around the side, in case I had to remove it again.

I forgot to replace everything when putting the phone back together, and when I had to open it a second time, the pentalobe screw head was already stripped. To work around this, I used a pair of scissors to shorten the head of the pentalobe screwdriver a bit, which made it grip the screw a bit more.

Everything seems to be working now and the process took about 45 minutes.

I followed the steps to the letter, only area I had a little struggle was getting the adhesive strips out from below the battery, but using an old credit card slid in the side like mentioned i got the battery out, a little bent but undamaged otherwise.

My only annoyance was after purchasing the the kit iPhone 6 Replacement Battery i found that the phillips screwdriver was the wrong size, luckily i had my own at hand so could proceed.

I too would recommend you take the extra time to release the screen as the instruction guide you to do so as the battery is stuck in quite well and you would most likely damage the ribbon cables to the screen if you were struggling to get the battery out.

Brilliant suggestion. It’s pretty clear that if you try to “short cut” this repair the major up-shot will be an inability to get the proper leverage for battery tape removal. Removal of the screen from the case sounds tedious, but WELL worth doing to make the rest of this repair go well. And iFixit’s 1st Step comment about DRAINING the battery being replaced to less than 25% seems like genius v. playing-with-fire. For anyone who thinks more-information-is-power, Gadget Fanatek has a sweet little video on YouTube about how his iPhone 6/6S battery replacement went. Spoiler alert: even a pro like that had to revisit the cable connection portion of the repair. He also had a nice tip about temporarily powering up the iPhone before buttoning up the case, specifically to discover whether or not the cable-connecting went well. Between iFixit and the Fanatek, if I’m not ready for this battery replacement I’ll never be ready…

This was not even close to being moderately difficult. It took me less then 5 mins and I'd say was easy... Just pay attention to what you're doing and make sure to organized the screws on your work surface by step. I see a few people complaining about the adhesive strips , READ the entire article! Theres a line that says: "When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips." $35 for a fix! Worth every penny!!! Thanks iFixit peeps!

I think you'll find the capacity is the same on all the available replacements. My advice: focus on getting a high-quality part from a reputable vendor, preferably one with a written guarantee. There are a lot of second-rate and/or secondhand batteries on the market.

Having trouble with reassembly... The white bars at the top of the screen and down the middle have not gone away despite multiple disconnect and reconnect attempts of the data display cable and power cycle of the battery. I can feel it snap into place but the lines are still present when I power up the phone. Any help?

Alright, I was able to fix the issue. After reading very scary stories about microsoldering and level 4 and 5 repairs. I pulled out a lamp and started looking around at all of the connectors.

Starting with all of the display ribbons plugged in, the three that are in a row is where the problem lies. The first one I believe is the front facing camera, the second one killed the display, but it was the third one that had the issue. I noticed that the ribbon cable at the connector was slightly convex. I threw on some rubber gloves and very carfully straightened out the ribbon connector. To be honest, it took a few attempts after that, as I could never feel a good "click" to get that third connector seated. So I would try to straighten it out, then try and seat it, over and over making very small changes until it fit. Once it went in, the white bars were gone and the touchscreen worked perfectly.

I think that third connector is just a very tight squeeze, and you just have to be careful when trying to seat it.

Same issue here - white lines on dim display, digitizer failure (and quite a bit of heat on one little section on the upper display after powering up for a minute). I noticed the digitizer and display connectors would not "click" satisfyingly. Noticed they were not exactly straight, slightly convex face into the socket (I guess from the initial pry-off). Tried very gentle bending with fingers to make straight, and still, no luck. Had to make the connector faces ever-so-slightly concave into the socket before success, using very gentle and careful bends with fingers. Connectors "clicked" into place nicely again, and display and digitizer working again. Took about 2.5 hours of fiddling (even after perfect extraction of battery/adhesive!)

I replaced the battery on 2 iPhone 6's today . The first one went perfect. After putting together the second one, it had small white vertical bars on the top. It drove me crazy. I cleaned, brushed, hooked and unhooked the connections over and over for 1-2 hours. I read on line that it could be static electricity and that it might work itself out over a couple of days. I was skeptical but could do nothing else. I put it together. Over then next 6 hours of use the bars went away. Now it is perfect. If, or when, I have to do it again I would not take the top cover off. I would put a ribber band around the cover and the box to hold the cover at a 90 degree angle (step 9) and gently pull the adhesive. I had no problem with 4 strips. I pulled SLOWLY and steadily. If you go slow you can hear and feel the tape releasing. I did not need to pull the tape around the corner and did not need heat. It took several minutes to pull each one. Just be patient.

Likely cause ESD micro electronic surfaces are extremely touchy to ESD and Most likely you will not see any improvement you either just need to live with it or get a new phone ESD safe work are ESD safe tools all are helpful but even I as a pro- still have this issue sometimes

I had exactly the same problem. I re-read the comments and instructions and was drawn to the extra advice on Step 18 - when reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press in the centre of the connector. I re-straightened the connector which was concave and then pressed on one end - it clicked ever so slightly - hurrah! After that it was plain sailing.

replaced iphone 6s battery without any complications put phone back together only to find screen has horizontal and diagonal white lines across full screen and screen will not unlock, you can read wording in the background (i.e. time, date and slide to unlock) although screen is very dark. screen will not respond, we have carefully repeated the process three times but nothing has changed. Any ideas. Thank you

Everything went very well. I did take a short cut and did not disconnect the screen form the body and was still able to extract the old battery and install the new one. The adhesive tape that holds the battery in is very strong and the old battery got a bit contorted (literally was bent) during removal. I did use a hairdryer to heat up the adhesive, which did help. Fortunately, no leaks. New battery install was easy and everything went back together easily. Total time, about 15 minutes.

Great step by step instructions. Removing the adhesive strips were a little more difficult than anticipated. Actually had to use a hair dryer-not pleasant, almost broke the battery trying to pry it out. Also had to scrounge around the house for a tool to remove the tiny tiny screws. Would have been nice to have that included in the kit. In the end, all's well that ends well. Thanks again for the write up.

Good tutorial. The hair dryer to remove the battery didn't work very well, I ended up forcing the old battery out, and bent it but didn't break it. Be careful with the adhesive strips. I messed mine up, but I'm not planning on doing another battery replacement on this phone, so it worked, not quite as described.

I usually work on computers, specifally laptops! I am older and can't see as well as I used to! Considering these facts I have to say that I had no problem whatsoever fallowing this tutorial and had the best outcome possible! The teacher in this class was outstanding!

If you remove the vibration module, chances of the strips breaking are further reduced as it doesn't drag on the corner of it. Hold onto the battery so it doesn't fly away when the last strip is peeled out. Hope this helps!

Fantastic guide, went super well. I did not have the replacement strips, so I carefully removed the second one and reused it. Not recommended but it seems to work. The first one just got into one big messy ball so that ship has sailed. anyways I'm keeping it until it breaks so not worried.

Follow the guide, slowly but surely and be amazed that those strips stretch to nearly 30cm / 12in! it's fantastic. Got it the first try, no breakout and certainly no damaged battery! Very eager to see how the new one holds up, or if the OS has become more demanding!

The metal backed connector closest to the top of the phone bends very easily... Use the medium wide plastic pry tool to pry up very gently all the way around in tiny , tiny lifting movements. You are trying to retain the flat shape of the connector as much as humanly possible. Try to spread the prying force out across the whole connector as best you can...if you bent it a little, you must use your fingers to get it back as flat as possible. Try to align the short side edge of the connector up as good as you can and GENTLY press the whole connector back down all at once. I usually use my thumb nail and push in the center of the connectors when reassembling a phone...this will almost certainly bend the connector and cause the contacts at either short end to not touch the mating contact...this gives you the dashed bars and lines on the screen...the connector must be absolutely flat to make good contact.

I managed to get the battery out with some careful levering after one of the glue 'strips' broke and could not be rescued with tweezers. However, I had tried to save time and trouble by not disconnecting the screen first and came a cropper. I had used an elastic band to hold the screen vertical against a small, heavy box and that worked OK until the glue strip snapped and I nudged the box sideways a small amount. It didn't move far but it took the screen with it of course and that caused a tear in the cable going to the front facing camera and earpiece which resulted in me not being able to hear the caller in telephone conversations. The replacement cable and attached bits (camera, mic and one other sensor) was a ridiculously cheap £5.99 and the replacement, though fiddly, was successful installed but I would urge you to disconnect the screen as advised. I didn't primarily because I was concerned I may have a problem reconnecting the cables but it was no problem with good lighting and a steady hand.

I replaced my battery and when I turned it on the first time the touch screen was no good. Lines everywhere.... but I was able to fix that by making sure that the connectors for the screen and back of the phone made s good snapping noise before I closed up. The only thing I notice now is that my phones wifi doesn't work. I've tried unconnecting and reconnecting the cord below the battery connection on the bottom right of the phone but that didn't help. Any tips?

The procedure went well, until the adhesive strips. One came off, eventually, with the proper teasing, but the other snapped off and was inaccessible to retrieve, so I had to use the hair dryer to heat the back. A credit card is way too flexible to exert meaningful leverage, so I used a steel cabinet scraper, about the same thickness but much stiffer. The battery did flex a bit but thankfully did not explode, and finally came free.

I think there should be a reference right at the top of Step 20 to first read the linked strip installation instruction so you understand what the strips look like before you start pulling, and some comment about how stretchy and strong they are would be appropriate.

Reconnecting the connectors was very difficult, it took a lot of patience and gentle maneuvering to mate them, but all turned out well in the end. I powered the phone up to check it out before closing it up again, in case I had to re-do anything.

Completed the replacement with no problem at all, following the guide. The battery adhesives came flawlessly, the only thing I was worried about was reconnecting all the display cables, specially the digitizer cable, as it kept poping out a few times.

I've done plenty of other under-the-hood upgrades. However, I could not get battery unstuck. I used hair dryer to attempt to make the adhesive let go of the battery, but it's a touchy procedure, as you want to loosen glue without melting other plastic components. I slid pryer under side and tried to lift up battery. Ultimately, I must've bent the battery too far, and it combusted! Wrecked iPhone. Not sure why so much adhesive is used. I fear the days of DIY upgrades is winding down, as apple seems to want to use more and more glue and components soldered to the main board, so what you buy is what you're stuck with for the life of the product.

If you can't unstick battery, DON'T pry so much the battery starts to bend! I now wonder if I could've vacuum-sealed the bag and boiled the phone for a few minutes to really warm up the adhesive, but it's an expensive procedure to do trial-and-error on...

Well, at least maybe I can sell the front screen on eBay to recoup some of the cost of a new iPhone...

Same thing happened to me last night. I was ib too much of a hurry and one of the adhesive tabs broke off. I thought, being the smart ass that I am, that the battery wouldn't need heating and i could just lever it out. Well I urge you all to follow the above proceedures very, very closly !! The battery in my iphone 6+ combusted in my face and fortunately it dropped on the the floor and went up like a flair and litterally filled the house with smoke. Goodbye iPhone 6+ and I havnt backed it up for two months, thats another thing you should all be religious about. World of Pain here I come

a Blow dryer does not apply enough heat to remove the glue some 99.7% pure isopropyal alchol will get it free you will need a credit card or something as such and have to work it in to get it to remove I recomened a heat gun they get much hotter and are able to heat the glue up enough to give you some play

One but of extra caution: Underneath the right top end of the battery there are connector wires attached to the rear of the case. When using a plastic card to scrape the adhesive off the rear case take extra care at the right top corner of the battery.

My connector wires ended up crumpled from the push of the card but were still ok. When using a lot of pushing force in this area the connector wires may be pushed off the case and could rupture/break.

Battery and adhesive came out as advertised. I must be blessed or lucky or both ;) My suggestion is to have patience with the adhesive! I pulled out each strip extremely slow. The entire process took 7 minutes total on my iPhone6. I was sent a battery with 65% charge and will have to eat-up all my battery life on Real Racing 3!

P.S. Apple has a battery replacement program for the 6S but not my 6 :(

Great tutorial! As others have mentioned take your time on the adhesives. When they are attached under the battery you will bend gate your phone trying to get them out. Also I would recommend using the iOpener underneath the phone before you make your first attempt at removing the adhesives. That would have saved me 15 min. As other have mentioned you can forego steps 11-15 until you take off the connectors of the top part of the phone, but you will have to the steps to remove the battery so there is no harm in doing them first.

Excellent guide, thank you iFixit. Took me about an hour start to finish with no issues. If you have the proper tools and exercise patience, this is a pretty easy procedure. Slow and steady is key with the adhesive strips.. I found that a gentle back and forth motion (top to bottom) as I pulled the strips up toward the top of the battery helped to safely remove them from the underside of the battery. I used double-sided tape for the replacement and it's working like a charm.

Yep. Excellent guide and photos. I did use a piece of white paper for the hardware as I removed them. Added a simple drawing with marks for the screw locations. Then left each screw near it's place on the drawing. Some techs also use a piece of masking tape (looped with the sticky side up) to keep the tiny hardware from...escaping.

So what do I do now? I removed the old battery following all the directions. The old battery is bent up & not usable. I put the new battery in & nothing works now. I tried doing a hard reset then charging it for half an hour & then a hard reset again. Nothing!!! I connect the old battery & it starts right up fine. How do I get a replacement battery overnighted to replace this defective piece of crap!!!

Old battery a pain to remove but done it without puncturing it. Hardest part for me was to reconnect battery connector. Lower part doesn't seem to fit anymore so connector is not seated flush. Upper part clicks ok and snaps in but lower part of the connector never clicked in properly. Tried and retried but to no avail. So had to secure it with the screw on bracket. Not ideal but seems to hold so far. No one had this problem on reconnecting new battery? Feels like new battery connector seems slightly different from original battery hence hard to properly seat on board contact receiver

Just finished doing this! Definitely recommend to do steps 13-19, if you have trouble removing the old battery like I had those steps will svae you money for sure. Removing the old battery was the harder part for me, the adhesive strips broke and had to use the hair dryer and some brute force to remove it. The battery bent but I didn't puncture it. Also be carefull when placing the new battery so the conector is aligned with the slot.

Mint. Worked as stated. However, getting the adhesive tape out was a bastard and I had to get the hairdryer and pry the sod out with a credit card, supllemented by brute force and ignorance. The battery got bent but didn't rupture.

I ran into the same issue as cdavies. It seemed no matter how patient I was with tugging the adhesive as well as heating it up with a hair dryer, it came to a point where they wouldn't move further, eventually breaking. Slightly bending the battery is inevitable with going the card method so be careful, but it worked fine.

Another issue I ran into after putting it back together and turning the iPhone back on is a blue-like spot would slowly appear on the display after a minute or 2 - this spot being exactly where the battery's ribbon cable is positioned before connecting to the board. It seemed I didn't tuck it in completely when I put in the new battery and it was putting a slight amount of pressure (I assume) against the display as a result. I just had to open it back up and position it to where it should've been and slightly tucking it in more. That blue-like spot disappeared.

So unlike me, make sure the ribbon cable's position looks like how the old battery's ribbon cable looked like and it'll be fine.

Here's a tip that helped me get the adhesive tape out. Take your time on the tape. It runs the length of the battery. If it breaks you can use the ifixit tweezers to grab the edge of the tape and start pulling on it again. Once both pieces of tape come out the battery easily comes out. If at any point when using the credit card to remove the battery if you can grab the tape with tweezers, go for it and it will save you lots of time and hassle.

Adhesive on the old iphone6 was very strong, so I had to use a credit card to wedge on the side of the case, and then use a big screwdriver to wedge it up, really mangled up the old battery while removing.

Behind the screen it's just the machined aluminum so it's ok to wedge on it, except towards the top where there's the antenna, see the diagrams above. It's just the battery with strong adhesive against the aluminum base.

* big FLAThead screwdriver. More details on this guide indicating there's no circuit board on the back, etc would be nice becuase removing the battery from the strong adhesive is a non-trivial matter. But otherwise awesome, thanks guys.

I am feeling sick right now. I also used the tutorial on Forbes.com instead of this one which was sort of close. I pretty much followed all the steps except I didn't keep the screws separate when putting them back in. I just knew that 2 of them were bigger than the other ones, when in fact it was 3 of them :-( . I also didn't remove the top screen during the replacement and could have damaged all kinds of stuff. I went through the steps twice and nothing. My phone is not charging so I either screwed up big time or the battery is a dud. I tend to think that I messed this up and will end up having to get a new phone anyway (which I was trying to avoid). My stomach hurts. Hope you guys have better luck.

Candace, do not give up hope quite yet! First of all, it is okay if you didn't remove the screen. If you didn't unscrew the bracket seen in step 13, it is unlikely that anything display related got disconnected. Check the cables and see if anything ripped. If you were gentle, this is unlikely the case. It is very possible that you didn't connect the battery connector correctly. Remove the screws and bracket again seen in step 10 and 11, measure the screws so you know where they go (cross reference this guide), and check the battery connector (see step 12). Also, you are talking about more than a couple screws, but if you didn't remove the screen as is done in step 13, you should only have 4 screws total (The pentalobes holding the screen in place, and the screws holding the battery connector bracket). If you did remove the bracket in step 13, measure the screws so you know where they go, and check the connectors that sit underneath that bracket. I am sure you will prevail! Good luck!

Read Jason Erickson's solution above to the Vertical Bars. Once you've checked the connectors are seated properly leave the phone on for a few hours and the bars just start fading away. I can barely see mine now unless I rack up the brightness to full, but only been a few hours.

I finished the battery replacement some hours ago. All went well except by the adhesive strips removal. It took way more time to remove it as I imagined. After reassembling it I had to plug the phone straight direct into the power outlet because the new battery was dead and the phone started up with everything working as it should (camera, screen, speaker, touch). I left the phone charging until 100% and I was using it normally while plugged in but when I removed the cable the phone died. I was trying to get it to power up without the cable and after some tries it powered up asking to connect to iTunes for an update. That's what I did. It powered up again and the phone was working again, but instead of showing the battery at 100%, it was around 60%. I let it charge until around 85% and decided to give another try of removing the power cable. The phone died again. Sometimes it works without the power cable, sometimes it doesn't. I can't understand why.. Do you guys have any idea of what I could be?

Yes, i did both. I just opened the phone again to tried to check if everything was well plugged it. Now the phone won't even start. Screen black. LCD not even turning on. Even with power cable connected. Btw all the cables are intact and don't seem to have any damage. I treated it very carefully.

Yeah.. i also think so.. the funny thing is that the phone boots in DFU and recovery mode normally. It appears in iTunes and i can ask for a recovery. It ends not recovering it and ending in Error 4005. I'm starting to think about the screen itself. maybe i broke it..

Just realised its not the screen. If I plug it directly into the wall (not to my pc) the screens powers on but it won't initialise. It stays on the Apple Logo and goes black, then back to the logo and black again repeatedly.

seems like these folks had the same issues you are. read through this. i noticed they said try hard reset will its plugged in the wall. if not try going into recovery mode whilel its connected to your laptop. (you might lose all your data on your phone) seems the phones firmware might need to be updated. hopes this helps

Good guide, I followed all the steps except for when it actually came to remove the battery strips and the battery itself. Those adhesive strips are a pain to take out and both of them snapped while I was attempting to remove them. I went off script and had to "delicately" pry the original battery out. The whole time I was afraid I was going to puncture the battery but if you are slow and methodical it can be done, my battery ended being bent considerably from me trying to extricate it.

Also, not an absolute requirement but I wish iFixit would include an extra set of adhesive strips for the replacement battery.

I would disconnect and reconnect all the connectors. And the ones by the top of the screen where it folds up inspect the ribbon strips. Make sure they did not get twisted. The ones iam talking about are in steps 16-18. Step 17 does say if you get display issues it's prob because the display connector isn't fully seated. As for the battery getting hot. I would reconnect that connector as well. If it's depleted might just be juicing up.

I followed the tutorial step by step, managed to damage the old battery which followed with a little bit of smoke. Installed new battery and reassembled but now my phone doesn't turn on, or even show its charging. Can anyone help?

I did not go thru all of the comments, but I had to vent somewhere about this.

The adhesive strips used to attach the battery to the chassis of the phone are at least 1000 times past the ridiculous point of necessity.

First of all, when would the battery ever fall out of the phone while it is all together. Some very weak 2 sided tape should have been more than enough to attach the battery strong enough for any situation.

OH WAIT! I forgot, what if you were replacing the screen and while the screen is detached from the rest of the phone, there is a TORNADO.

I guess in that situation I would be glad that the adhesive is so strong so that my battery doesn't fly away and get lost.

Chalk one up for the secret department at Apple that makes it as hard as possible for end users to fix their phones.

I attempted this last night. I got the left side of the battery adhesive to come out in one strip but the right side broke. I used a credit card and dental floss to get it free. I thought the battery removal would be the hardest part, but it turns out that applying the adhesive would be. I even watched the video. Still failed.

So, I was determined to get the project done. I went to home depot to look for double sided tape. I purchased double sided foam tape. I put it in and discovered it was too thick. I then panicked because the battery was stuck in and I didn't leave myself much slack on the left side to get a credit card in.

I tried to remove it by gently prying from the bottom left but noticed it wiggle so I decided that wasn't safe. I finally was able to successfully remove it again but I'm worried I may have damaged the battery. Is there any way I can know that the battery is safe to use?

I ordered a 3 pack of adhesive so I've got 3 chances to get it right. It should be here tomorrow.

Hey kbrown488, As long as the battery hasn't been too badly bent/wrinkled, it isnt' swollen, there are no holes in the casing, and there is not a funny smell, you should be okay. However, if the display begins to separate from the casing, or the home button starts acting up, this could be a sign of a swollen battery, so keep an eye on that!

OK, I got my adhesives in yesterday and I was able to complete the project. It powered up and everything looked good, home button functions, fingerprint scanner works. Only one small weird issue though. I let the battery drain to below 10% then charged it. I waited all night for it to get to 100% but at 97% I fell asleep. I woke up early in the morning and saw that it was still at 97% and thought that can't be good but forced a reboot and when it came back up it said 100%. Anyone know what that means? I took it off the charger and used it some this morning and it seems to be draining. My original reason for replacing the battery was that the battery percentage would be completely wrong, most of the time it would get stuck at 100% but then suddenly die. I believe that using the Apple smart battery case may have been a contributing factor to this. The battery didn't seem to wrinkled when I installed it. Could it still swell up if there is a problem?

I just did this repair today with almost complete success. Battery seems to be working well. However when I reassembled the phone and powered on, there was a faint blue pressure spot on the display just a bit smaller than a dime, 3/4 of an inch above the home button.

The only two things I think that could be causing this pressure spot is the battery cable itself, I noticed when I installed it that it wasn't exactly a perfect flush fit below the body of the battery...OR the new battery adhesive strips that I installed show a tiny bit of the white sticky part (I think I applied them a few mm too high) and that might be sticking to the display?

If it's the battery cable I don't know what to do to fix it. If it's the adhesive strips causing the problem, is there anything I can apply over them to stop them from being sticky in that one spot?

I also had the blue dot, screen issue. My battery cable length was too long and getting it to sit flush was not possible, impacting the screen negatively. I was disappointed in the replacement battery’s design compared to the OEM.

Really unhappy with this product! I messed up my iPhone and now I need to get a new one. I hate that they give you instructions on how to take off the battery but nothing to put it back on. Just says to do everything backwards. What a waste of money!

I managed to replace my iPhone 6 battery with more or less difficulty - everything works but I can't hear anything in the earpiece when making phone calls. Does anyone have an idea why this may be? Static electricity??

I chose the method to not remove the front panel, propping up the front with a beverage can and rubber band. For heating the adhesive, I used a "gel heat pack" heated in the microwave. I placed the phone on the heat pack to warm the case. This is not the most ESD safe practice, since the pad is plastic. During adhesive removal, I broke both of the strips. I must not be patient. I used a plastic card to get the old battery out, with quite a bit of effort. Had to be careful not to put stress on the front harness. The old battery pack was slightly bent when I was done, but no smoke or fire, so that is good. I would recommend starting the repair with a battery that is almost fully drained to reduce the fire risk. Anyway, got it back together and after the hard boot, phone is fine, and THIS message is being sent via the phone's wireless hotspot, so things seem to be going well. By the way- back up your data before starting in case things don't go well and you need to get a new phone. REPAIR IS NOBLE!

I just replaced the display and the battery a few days ago. The new battery did not come with new adhesive strips, do I decided to replace the battery without any adhesive strips. Everything else went smooth. Now the phone turns off by itself and only works if the charger is in. Any idea what might cause this?

I bought the battery set from Ifix and changed the battery on an Iphone 6 and it's just not charging , I tried with other ones and it's the same issue , it's not the lightening port since it was changed and it worked before , any idea if it's becuase the battery doesn't come with the tiny sponge aislator on the battery connector?

The adhesive strips are not all that hard to remove. Watch the video. The pictures don't do this portion of the procedure justice. Pull the adhesive *perpendicular* to the battery edge and pull slowly and steadily. Don't pull towards the bottom edge of the battery: perpendicular. Once the strips are removed, the battery just falls out. You will need new adhesive strips; my replacement battery came with it, fortunately. The adhesive strips are not reusable as the instructions kinda-sorta imply.

Great stuff, thanks again for a great tutorial. Beware puncturing or bending the battery--bent that which I just replaced whilst removing it from my son's iPhone, and it quickly became extremely hot.

If I'd just read through the guide first, instead of relying on the video alone, I would've used floss/wire/monofilament to saw my way through the battery adhesive instead of prying it out, curling it over, and nearly burning down the house. .

Great illustrated steps to changing the battery. The battery was a booger getting out as both adhesive strips broke off. I did use a credit card, hair drying to loosen the strips, and string under the battery to get it loose. Great guide though!! Very happy with my battery replacement.

I did this lastnight on my iphone 6. I echo the sentiment about those adhesive strips under the factory battery, what a pain. The tension needed to pull them out was more than I thought it should be and I didn't have enough pulled out before they broke off.

I heated up the phone with a hair drier and used the ifixit credit card to "Pry" it out. From the image it looks like it just pops out with heat. My experience was more "OH DEAR GOD IS THIS THING GOING TO EXPLODE" because the battery was bending while I was gently prying it. It did eventually come out with the alternating heat/pry/heat/pry and there was no conflagrations to be had.

I really do recommend the isplit tool. That make QUICK work of splitting the case.

I had WAAAAAAAY more trouble than they did getting those stupid adhesive strips loose from the back...I ended up grabbing a piece of paracord, pulling one of the strands of core out, and used it to break the adhesive loose...dental floss didn't work (broke too easy), fishing line didn't work (again, broke simply), and copious quantities of screamed vulgarities as only an infantryman can do also didn't work, though, it may have in fact caused it to harden up a bit, so, there's that....but in the end, everything is back together, and my new battery is awesome...and not draining nearly as quickly as the OEM one was (apple said it had roughly 790 cycles on it...big surprise when the battery only lasts an hour or two off the charger, you recharge it a LOT....)

Holy smokes. I really enjoy taking things apart and consider myself reasonably handy with things. Doing these things help me relax a bit. But this was intense!

I skipped one critical step which was to drain the battery. Like a few others, I have an iPhone 6 battery that was very difficult to remove. Both adhesive strips broke before I could take them off. So I used a blow dryer and then tried to pull it out. The battery combusted and left a mark on my hardwood floor. It was incredible. The whole phone turned into smoke and the house too. I'm surprised my smoke detector didn't go off. The phone remained very very hot for another 10 minutes. Just for giggles I decided to wipe off the phone and tried the new battery in. Everything worked just fine, I couldn't believe it!

Anyways, I don't recommend trying this unless you are really really handy with tools. Especially on the iPhone 6 which from reading on here seems to have an extremely sticky battery.

I got the battery+tools from iFixit and they were shipped very quickly - thanks for that.

Removing the battery and replacing it were no problem. The problem was reconnecting the 4 cables between the screen and the phone. The connectors wouldn't engage after several tries. On the last try, I broke the screen trying to push it into place. Arrgh!

So, two hints: 1. The screen is VERY delicate, so only push on it gently. 2. Other online instructions say to push the connectors in from the *sides*, not the center, otherwise you can damage the connectors. Not sure if that would have helped in my case.

Anyway, a replacement screen from iFixit costs about as much as a local repair shop charges ($70), so I just used that service instead. The iFixit battery is in the phone, though, and so far it works *very* well.

Replaced the battery today and it went pretty smooth with the exception of one battery adhesive (right side) which broke when I got to the battery cable. I was able to get the left side off completely so the battery removal overall was not to difficult. Great guide and tools helped things go smooth and the battery and phone are working great. Thanks IFIXIT!

Got this done! Had to use floss to remove battery adhesive, but it worked! I did not have the spreader, but I did have the toolkit from ifixit. I strongly recommend that you used some sort of warming on the back of your phone to soften the adhesive strips. I used a rice bag that we have for muscle aches. I also recommend having a set of spare adhesive strips. I ended up needing them. Everything's back together and working fine.

Bought the iPhone 6 Replacement Battery / Fix Kit did the steps, had a bit of a hard time getting the adhesive strips off, but other then that, not too bad. I do have the white lines showing up only at the top of the screen, but the thing that is worrying me now is that the side where the new replacement battery is on is overheating rather quickly. I mean, I'm browsing the internet on safari and it gets really warm after 3-5 minutes. Any advice as to what I should do for the overheating?

Try disconnecting the digitizer connector and reseat it carefully to make sure it's fully connected. If you still have the same issue, try a different screen—if it's a damaged ribbon cable or connector, swapping out the screen should resolve it. If that fails, my guess would be damage to the connector socket on the logic board, which will require a microsoldering expert to repair/replace.

Very easy repair, I was very concerned after using the suction cup to open the iphone. When it finally opened, it opened WIDE and I thought I broke all those display cables at the top of the phone. Fortunately, the parts inside the phone are secured with metal plates. No damage and no problems. In fact, I kept the display and all of those connectors at the top connected throughout the repair. This made the repair so much easier than it otherwise would have been. I saved a lot of time and effort and was done in 30-45 minutes on the very first try! Excellent guide, very helpful, and thanks for all the helpful comments that made this so much easier for me!

I replaced the battery and the instructions were perfect. I ended up having to use dental floss on the back of the battery to free the battery from the adhesive strip. Also, the battery connector was a little bend, but I just bent it in the correct location. If you use common sense, this is an easy repair. These are the only issues I ran into and took about 30 minutes. I used a long strip of really wide tape to keep track of all the screw locations. Also have to be really careful with this installation as you could easily tear/break something. Just take your time, and you will be fine.

DON'T BEND THE BATTERY. People try removing the battery and there is still adhesive tape connected, bend the battery, then it explodes everywhere. Just don't be an idiot and remove all the adhesive tape under the battery before trying to remove it. It will just pop out.

Resulting battery is like new!!! Couldn't be more happier and will use the toolkit in the future for sure.

Thanks for this, got my new battery in. Yeesh, that adhesive removal was even tougher than anticipated, despite all the warnings. Note that this guide and the adhesive replacement guide suggest different techniques for pulling out the old adhesive. Here it says to pull around the corner, while the adhesive replacement guide says to pull straight down. I tried one way with the first strip, the other way with the second -- both broke. But a hairdryer, two credit cards (thin one for pushing the adhesive, thick one for prying up the battery), and some loud swearing got it done.

I had no problems installing the battery and now I get a full day charge, actually it usually still has 50% at the end of the day. Yay!

But, Settings - Battery no longer shows Battery Usage by app. I read elsewhere that some 3rd party batteries are not fully compatible and this issue can arise. Has anyone else experienced this? No big deal and I'm happy with my like new phone again.

I was so scared I had screwed something up when I first tried to start the phone after replacing the battery. I plugged it in and my phone went to the white screen with the apple logo, then a blank "blue" screen (just a faint backlit screen, not bright but not blank either). No one else here seems to have had this particular issue so far, so I searched online and apparently this is called a recovery or restore loop. The solution is to power off the phone, hold down the home button while the phone is still off, then plug your phone into your computer to do a restore from iTunes. Then, iTunes will come up with a restore prompt and you can do a restore from there. I am in the midst of recovering my iCloud backup, but so far the phone's hardware is all working correctly--home button, touch ID, wifi, screen functionality. I'll update if I run into any other problems.

I bet that Apple's repair centers have a custom-machined hot vise in which the rear of the phone is mounted. At higher temperatures the adhesive strip pull is likely more predictable. Both of my strips broke midway.

I used a heat shrink tubing gun to warm the aluminum backing but it's ineffective while holding the phone.

I think the advice to discharge the old battery fully is an excellent safety precaution. I bent the old battery getting it out.

I've had good results by screwing a wood block onto a 1' square piece of sheet metal. Put rubber bands over display/block. Place this over a light bulb. Pry lightly with the case opening tool from the bottom, not side of the battery (probably worth taking the vibrator out) while pulling the tape. Comes out easily. Connect the new battery, then push it down on a few dabs of RTV. Push in the ribbon cable which avoids blue spots on display then close it up.

My cable appears to be too long to possibly re-form it to sit into place and not impact the screen. I I also had the blue dot, screen issue. I was disappointed in the replacement battery’s design compared to the OEM.

WHY?! WHY DO YOU NOT HAVE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CONNECTING THE NEW BATTERY??? It's NOT obvious! I have no idea what to do with this connector? Should it click in? Have I just damaged my phone by forcing it? WHY WOULD YOU LEAVE THIS OUT??? WHYYYYY???

It will probably not make a click noise. It should push on and be "stuck" when seated. It shouldn't move easily and should be level. If it is not level, or is still free when you touch it, it is not attached properly.

They are replacement screws to replace the 2 pentalobe screws that you removed in the first step. Because these screws are designed to prevent tampering, they are easy to strip and Apple replaces them when they remove them (if I remember correctly). The battery kit comes with 2 replacement screws that are philips head instead of pentalobe so a special screw driver isn't needed for future repairs.

This was helpful for connecting the new battery. The sleeve needs to be bent away from the phone not towards it (which is more intuitive) to connect properly and snap into place. If anyone else was stumped see this video around the 19 minutes mark . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZcYIwBG...

Worked like a charm. I was careful with the battery removal and no damage resulted. Hardest part was dealing the the 1mm screws and the old eyes but it just required some patience. I also wonder about the necessity to remove the display. I did and had no problems with reconnecting it but would be frustrated if I had to reopen things to reseat the connectors. If I do one of the other phones in the house, I may attempt to leave the display on when removing the old battery with increased care on my side and a nod to the additional risk.

My attitude to all of these repairs is wanting to experience the satisfaction of fixing it myself. I always realize that I may fail and brick what I'm fixing.

It wasn't too difficult, but I do now have some slight rainbowing in the LCD display when firmly pressing on the screen, mostly in the center 1/3 of the display. It's doesn't occur during normal use, so it's manageable - but it wasn't there before the battery change.

As for the adhesive strips. Don't pull up toward the top of the phone! Always pull down and toward the bottom corners of the device (left for the left strip, right for the right). Using this technique I was able to completely remove them using the pulling technique. The strips never broke and did I not have to slide a card under the battery.

I bought the iFixIt kit to go along with the battery. It was a big help mostly because of the tweezers that come with it. I got 1 adhesive strip off okay, but the 2nd snapped and hid under the battery. By prying the side of the battery up slightly and using those tweezers, I was able to get a hold of the adhesive strip and pull it out. It ripped a few more times, but I managed to get it out without bending the battery too much. I also left the display attached, by propping it up against a heavy box and holding down the iphone with a lot of pressure (on the sides to avoid hurting any internal componenets). I would definitly recommend beginners DO NOT do that, as those ahesive strips take a lot of effort to get out and it would be easy to slip and rip the cables. If it weren't for the adhesive, I'd say it is pretty easy to just leave the display attached.

Wow, this was so much easier than. I thought on an iPhone 6. Screen came off easily with the suction cup, no iSclack necessary (I understand the 7 has waterproof gaskets that make it much harder, so 6 is probably easier without them). I thought I broke the adhesive strips, just know that you can pull the black tabs easily if the white adhesive breaks, It's connected. Heating with a hairdryer definitely helped with adhesive removal and I got it all out without it getting stuck under the battery.

The hardest part of this all to me was seeing everything! I wear bifocals and I needed a magnifying glass to see better. Getting the screws back in was the toughest part, use tweezers to stick the magnetized screws onto the screwdriver.

$20 gets me through to the iPhone 8 launch without problems, and my wife or kids can use the iphone 6 after I upgrade!

This is super useful and I loved doing battery replacement project using the toolkit. Whoever developed this concept, its working out really well and hats off to the detailed guides / videos. Super helpful.!!!

I've done this replacement many times and I've decided this guide is missing a few steps;

1. Before you start pulling on the tabs to remove the battery adhesive, just take out the two screws that hold down the vibrator and remove the vibrator just below the battery. This gives you a MUCH better angle to pull.

2. Also before you start pulling on those tabs HEAT THEM UP. Just a bit of heat makes them come off SO much easier. DO NOT try and pull them without heating up the iPhone as you will most likely break the adhesive strips and regret it. Just hit the back of the iPhone with a hair dryer / heat gun / heat sack for a minute or so until its warm to the touch. Just a little bit of heat, if you can't touch it, that's way too hot.

3. DO NOT try and use the card trick they mention to pry up the battery as you will fold over / cut / weaken the adhesive strips so they won't simply pull off. And you could also potentially cut the lock button / flash cable that is underneath the the battery.

Great tutorial. Toughest part for me was reattaching the battery connector; the lead on the new battery was very stiff and had a lot of extra material that had to be folded away. The connector does give a solid "click" when it connects, so I knew when I finally got it.

Highly recommend pulling the adhesive strips straight out like in the video for "iPhone Battery Adhesive Strips Replacement," rather than trying to go around the corners. I went around the corner with the first strip, and it ended up breaking off and I couldn't get to it again. For the second strip, I just slowly and steadily pulled it straight out and it didn't break at all. My new battery works great! No more random shut offs at 80% charge.

Very easy to replace the battery. Only if I know I needed to buy the adhesive strip separately when I order the battery. I have to wait for the strip to arrive. It should have a notice or warning on the page to but it. It only has a parts listing and does not mention it needs to be bought together.

My replacement only had one issue, and that was reconnecting the display cables. The first two times I tried, i did not get the first one to seat right, so I had to redo it several times. I wish they thought of the sideways opening like on the iPhone 7 two years earlier so I didn't have to take the display off. The instructions worked well, and the replacement parts from iFixit worked perfectly.

Numerous problems with the iFixit kit. First of all, the Phillips screwdriver did not fit the screws on the plates. I had to use a flathead jewler's screwdriver instead. Then, nobody seems to mention the new adhesive strips. They stick to everything, even the backing they come on. When I was trying to apply them they stuck to the backing as I was pulling it off and then snapped back down on the battery, bunched up into little balls at the end. Now the battery won't lay flat in the phone. Going to have to re-assemble as is, order new strips, and do the whole thing again.

I just did an iPhone 6 battery replacement in about 10 minutes. very easy but do be careful removing battery tape. I did not completely remove the screen and the plate and connections at the top of the phone. no problem. one more hint, I watched several youtube videos as well as the ifxit video. Thanks ifixit!

Hey, I replaced battery in iphone 6 for a client. Everything went well. But everything looks fine but screen is unresponsive, can't enter pass code, I touch the numbers but nothing happens, also can't turn off phone. If touch id isn't disabled would this cause screen to be unresponsive???

So, it all went smoothly when removing the battery. No broken stickers. I found it more difficult to place the new stickers, and in fact a bit of it overflowed on the bottom of the battery :S. Anyway the phone closed just fine and no problems.

Very glad that I read the comment about removing the screen, that would have been very difficult. All went well, very smooth. One issue that could have been bad but fortunately worked out. When you put the battery back in with the adhesive strips, be sure that it is aligned to the left of the case. There is a surprising amount of leeway as to where to position the battery. When I first put it in it was too far right and interfered with the battery connector. I was able to get it off with credit card even though the new strips were there. Battery repositioned on the left and all is well. Great stuff.

Great stuff iFixit, the only place I got stuck on was the removal of the adhesive strips. It just did not want to cooperate and pull out along the sides. I had to go to plan “B” to try to pry the battery up enough to get the white tape out. I used a prying device to delicately lift it, then I used the tweezers and a small exacto blade to carefully scrape the tape off the inside aluminum pan. This is the “stickiest” part of the procedure. I got it done and then the rest of the repair was just as described, reassembly was non-incidental, phone powered up, and I proceeded to calibrate the battery. You might consider another tutorial for step by step to calibrate the battery, (maybe already here?) I had to go off this site to find those instructions, which are also simple, just have to follow the proceedure!

One more thing concerns safety. Do not throw the old battery in your trash, not even in your garage, it can cause a fire if there’s enough charge left and it shorts. Dispose of this at a local battery recycling place! That’s important and should probably be included in the instructions. Thanks iFixit community!

Thanks iFixit, battery replaced. Aside from the adhesive strips (they broke initially, but thanks to the heat of the initial battery drain, I’ve managed to pull them out in one step), the hardest part for me was reconnecting the screen cable connectors. I didn’t want to press too much because of the various advices, but doing that, there was some problem the first time I turn on the phone: white lines on the bottom of the screen, and the touch was not working from the middle center to the left. So, I’ve reopened the phone, disconnect all the cables, and reconnect them again, this time with a little bit more pression on the side (but not excessively).

What is the secret to removing the 2.2mm screw that holds down the battery connector bracket? The PH000 driver provided in the battery replacement kit does not fit - too big. Is there even a smaller phillips driver?

I just finished my iphone 6 battery change. Yes, read and watch videos all you can before starting. Suggest making a few drawings and place the screws in the proper location on that pc of paper. I had one place that a screw moved from, and I stopped the re-install until I made sure all screws were in the proper locations on the paper. Do not tighten any screws until all are in place. IFIXIT needs a re-assemble video and steps, mostly alignment of the connectors. I left Electronics 24 years ago with heart problems. I worked on the first 9 pin dot matrix printers, impact printer, ION printer, thermal printers, since 1985, and Laser printers of all brands. The connectors are now very, very small. It was very hard to determine if the connector was on correctly. Maybe adding a sample connector setup with the tools, so we can really see how it fits. I wouldn’t let some tech person touch my phone unless I was able to see him do several before mine. I could just see him pushing on the connector wrong. Iphone WORKS!!!

Fantastic walkthrough for the battery replacement! I could not have done it without the very detailed guide, took me about an hour for the whole process. TAKE YOUR TIME. Don’t rush any part of this process as there are so many fragile parts of the phone, but after all said and done I got it replaced and new battery works great!

You should check if the battery connector has an insulator layer on the upper side. If the connector and the battery connector bracket touch each other, you will have charging issues or even the phone will refuse to boot up. I purchased an ifixit replacement battery and the battery connector doesn’t have that insulator layer on it, so I put a piece of electrical tape.

I followed the guide for battery replacement and everything worked well. My only problem is with the tools used in the guide or should I say the ‘description’ of the tools in the guide. I purchased the 64 piece tools kit just for the purpose of repairing my tablets and iphones when necessary. the tool kit is laid out very well in its case, however, the guide doesn’t use the same nomenclature as the bits within the kit! The guide uses 1.2 mm screw or 1.3 mm screws but the kit labels screws as P00 or P000. It is a matter of guess work in FEELING the resistance or slippage while working with each connector. I would like to suggest that the size of tools in the toolkit match the guide within the teardown.

Hey there arherrod!The millimeter lengths listed in this guide refer to the lengths of the screws, the head size should correspond to the kit driver and guide labels, PH00 etc. The lengths are specified so that you can put all the screws back in the places they belong, should the screws become mixed up, which is very important!

Seems to have worked. The instructions should include removing any protective film from the front display first. Otherwise your suction cup technique will not work. Two complaints: that adhesive is a pain to remove even with a a hair dryer. Took me forever and like many commenters had to destroy the old battery. On the bright side, I managed to lose two screws. Par for my hardware messing around; I’ve never reassembled anything with a full complement of screws. So far, so good, though.

Getting my battery out was a bear…The tape things broke. I kept heating it and used a wire to finally get it out. I did remove the top part of the phone as instructed. By the time I got to rehooking everything back up I forgot about checking the smaller screws that go over the connectors. I put the long screw in the right hole but the next largest one I put in where the small ones went. I went back to your instructions and saw my mistake. Took it out and did it right. Reconnected everything but now my phone wont connect to the wifi or my 4g and the right side and bottom of my screen isnt responding to my touch. So frustrated…any ideas how to fix it? or did I mess it up putting the one med size screw in the wrong hole?

I just completed the job were all talking about. I did remove the vibrator assembly. Super easy to remove and pulled on the tapes with constant pressure and not allowing them to twist or stay anything other that completely flat. Both tapes out intact. Just takes patience and constant pressure. I held the chassis of the phone. I resisted the temptation to hold the battery. I also did all this with removing the screen. Super easy repair. Very pleased. Just now draining my battery down to about 5% so I can do the uninterrupted re charge to 100%.

Wow - That was a bit more intense than I expected, but successful. My only recommendations are:

1) Use a clean and organized workspace with plenty of time, don’t rush.

2) Take your time separating, identifying, and organizing the tools and parts you remove.

3) Be precise with your tweezers and go SLOW when removing the adhesive. When your pulling the adhesive strips with your fingers, go very slow, then a bit slower than that. It will prevent a major headache if the strip rips.

Replaced my Iphone 6 battery in August, the instructions were great. I have a couple friends who want me to replace their battery and screens. I just ordered a fix the world bundle …(It’s on sale). They want to pay me…. Can you say free dinner, you buy the parts!

Double check that you’ve got the correct battery for your phone (the connector profiles are different from model to model, not to mention the battery specs themselves). Make sure the connector is aligned perfectly and that the attached ribbon cable isn’t pushing it out of place—sometimes it helps to hold the cable with a pair of tweezers and use that to line up the connector. The connector on a new battery may require a firmer press than the old one, but nothing too scary. If you bought a battery from eBay or Amazon because the price was lower, you’re more likely to run into quality issues—all aftermarket batteries are not created equal. Good luck!

Great kit. Be careful with the adhesive strips. This was the most difficult part of the removal and install. VERY sticky little suckers. Other than that, great tutorial and very easy to do with the right tools.

I replaced my battery two days ago and while the battery life is good, my phone shuts down under CPU load. I didn’t get the chance to do a full calibration as the phone was shutting down before I could get below 60% initially. I figured out that if I keep it in low power mode it seems to be able to stay on. I’ve opened the phone up and reseated the battery connector and am going try and run it down below 10% for calibration today but that takes all day, especially in low power mode. I didn’t have random shutdown problems like this on my old battery, just low capacity. Was this iFixit battery kit.

Calibration is more about getting an accurate reading on the digital battery meter; your phone shouldn’t be shutting down under load. This might be a defective battery. Please reach out to our customer support team and we’ll see if we can straighten it out. Sorry for the trouble!

I skipped steps 13-19. As long as the display is supported and you get the double sticky tape out on step 20, this is a nice time saver and less chance to do damage during re-assembly. Of course if you have problems with the double stick tape, then removing the display is probably a good idea. It’s a risk either way. The main reason for replacing this is slow sluggish performance. I would be texting a msg and the phone could not keep up with me typing. I used Geekbench to run before & after numbers and here’s what I got:

Single Core before 1064 after 1554

Multi Core before 1811 after 2679

The after numbers were typical of other iPhone 6 results. The sluggishness of the phone is gone and it’s back to its regular performance.

I also skipped steps 13-19. Most difficult part of the whole operation was getting the battery out. Ended up using a hair dryer to loosen adhesive. Luckily some prying did the trick and I didn’t puncture battery or ruin anything lol. Hooking the battery connector back up wasn’t exactly a treat either. All in all. 20 minutes in and out!

the capacity of the brand new iPhone 6’s battery is 1810 mAh, can I replace it with a larger one? for example a 2400 mAh battery (but design for iPhone 6 so they have the same size and conductor) the seller claimed it is design for iPhone 6 but I have no idea if there have any incompatible with my phone. I do not want to tank any risk so ask. Thanks.

Using the free app Lirum Device Info Lite on my iphone6, I noted that the actual CPU clock speed was equivalent to the max CPU clock speed so there was no throttling (slowing of the device). For me, my battery would die after just a few hours and the phone would go into low battery charge mode which slowed everything down. Now with my new battery, the phone seems like it’s running faster but it may just be me since I can go all day without charging the battery.

Completed this battery replacement on my iPhone 6 on Saturday, overall it went great and my phone works so much better, as the old battery was completely dead basically.

A couple of points from my replacement:

1. I didn’t remove the display, to me that seemed like a greater risk of damaging something, i supported the display with a box and it worked great.

2. watch the video guide especially around removing the adhesive strips, they show a different procedure there for the actual removal and that worked great for me compared to what the images show above.

3. the ribbon cable on the new battery is certainly not formed as accurately as the OEM battery and required some wrestling to get it into place and to connect and to get the connector cover back on.

Overall its a great How To and definitely a trust worthy place to buy quality parts and I enjoyed the DIY side of it.

Though with apples new lower price, I’d just take it there if I had the time over, I saw their new price within an hour of finishing my install off.

OK, some advise for everyone. Read over ALL the comments before attempting to replace your iPhone 6 battery.

1. Don’t remove the screen cables or their shield, I didn’t, just hold it in your left hand (assuming your right handed) and focus on keeping the display perpendicular and open. When you’re tired or something, simply rest the screen again the body and open it again when needed!

2. Unhook the battery connector and bend it away as the FIRST thing you do and reconnect as the LAST thing.

3. My inner adhesive striped worked, my outer broke. I bent up the corner of the battery and fished out the white stuff with bent tweezers, then wrapped it around the tweezers and pulled, and wrapped, etc..it worked. Next time pulling the adhesive AROUND the permitter of the battery would have worked better!

4. The replacement battery is missing the foam pad on the top of the connector, reuse the one on from the old battery!

5. Dry-fit test and pre-bend the battery connector first, THEN add the adhesive and re-fit it.

I was successful but found battery extraction very difficult. Pulling on the tabs of the adhesive strips at the angle described just resulted in the tabs ripping off, even though I tried to apply even tension and not jerk on it. I had to resort to using a plastic card to gradually break the battery loose. The process, and then cleaning the old strips out of the case, was very tedious.

iphone 6s has a very simple process this tutorial is an excellent guide. also used a few other videos i found on YouTube. total time to complete was about 20 mins. a word or wise to the first timer. there are different size screws everywhere in these phones. id recommend laying out all the screws as you remove them in the locations they belong next to the parts they hold down. steps 13-19 are not 100% necessary but will help you to not damage the screen or its attaching ribbons. also the battery tape is not as easy to remove as shown in any video iahd to pry my battery off after tearing the tape strips.

battery seams to be working perfectly after a nights charge. after a few hours of use i dont not see a considerable difference in the speed of my phone processing. i am running a iphone 6s with ios 11.2.5 beta with a apple watch series 3 in tow.

I successfully replaced my battery, though I have one concern about the installation of the new battery. The connecting cable to the socket was a bit too long so I had to bend it down to secure the screen back in place. In the original battery cable, it was able to wedge between the battery and the board with the socket. Should I be concerned about needing to bend the cable in order to make it lie flat? Nothing seems to be signifying it could be a problem. Just want to be sure this is ok to do as it was not included in instructions. I’m new at phone repairs so any advise or reassurance is greatly appreciated! Thanks,

Successful replacement of iphone 6 battery today. Removing the adhesive tapes under the battery is a bit difficult, i broke both tapes off after pulling and repositioning my fingers on it. I suggest slowly pulling the tapes in continous motion making sure it is flat and not twisted while pulling.

Also, the kit i got did not come with ifixit plastic card to push under battery if adhesive tapes broke. I used the spudger instead to pry off the battery at bottom end and grab the end of the tapes underneath with tweezer. Luckily i was able to pull remaining adhesive tape without them breaking again.

Glad you figured it out. Any old credit card will work just about as well as the plastic card shown here. I personally prefer the floss/wire method as there’s less chance of deforming the battery. Congrats on a successful repair!

Good tutorial easy fix but now have blue mark on screen, Phone jiggled a bit when removing adhesive not sure if this was cause. Screen already had tiny dim patch in the corner may need to get a new display.

Declan, if you search these comments for “blue” you will see that the battery cable is not sitting flush or down far enough into the void between the battery and the logic board. My replacement battery’s cable seems to be a faulty design or incorrect size.

Pull on the adhesive tapes slowly and continously to avoid breaking them, it a PITA removing the battery if they break as you will have to pry up the battery with risk of damaging them. Damaging the battery can cause a fire.

I broke both tapes on mine and had to pry off the battery, lucky i didn’t puncture it.

So like many others, I had to bend the connector band on the new battery, but looking at the original, it seems to be that way too. My problem, or rather question is: is the battery connector supposed to click in? All the other connectors for the screen and such clicked in securely while the battery one didn’t want to hold in place.

I’m having some issues with the phone rebooting every few minutes after having replaced the battery and I have a feeling it’s related. Any help would be appreciated.

Advice to others… be patient and take your time. Removing the adhesive strips was a challenge… both snapped off with the ends way under the battery (no getting them with tweezers). when pulling out tape pull very slowly. I had to GENTLY pry the corner of batter up (against frame side, not where all the connectors are), then once able to get under the corner, I could reach the adhesive tape with supplier tweezers in the kit. After getting one side out, pried GENTLY again to get to other strip.

Reassembly was a bit of work too. The connectors are so small. Take your time and press gently. If lined up correctly, they’ll snap back in. I did lose one of the smallest screws (1 of 3) for the panel that holds the (4) connectors down… but I felt there were enough screws there it would be OK.

So far so good… phone is charging and everything seems to work fine.

Thank you iFixIt for doing such a thorough job documenting procedures. I feel confident enough I could do it again!!!

This went perfect! The guide and video were very helpful and informative. I did not fully disconnect the display from the phone. I left it connected during the entire battery replacement. I did align the battery at the top first then set the rest of the battery. The battery connector did not line up perfectly but with a little cable adjustment it worked out fine.

I was able to complete the repair without the iSclack or iOpener. However, one of the adhesive strips did not pull out; I think the iOpener would have very handy at that point. I was able to heat with a hair dryer and eventually unstick the battery. It took more force than was probably necessary and made me feel like I was going to damage other parts. Also I was really concerned with the battery exploding or the like, but it was very durable and pliable as I was taking it out.

Easy to do. No problems at all. Finished in less than an hour. It can be done faster, as there are no particular difficulties, but there’s no need to hurry and loose one of the tiny screws…

The iPhone runs smoothly (not as fast as an iPhone X, obviously) but I can now again reach low battery levels. With the replaced (old) battery, the device was turning off with approximately 23% of battery left. Now I have full battery capacity again. This is a real gain.

As has been said before, the new battery conector has to be adjusted a little bit to fit, but it can be done with no fear.

Take your time to carefully remove the adhesive tapes from the battery. This is the only step that has to be done really with care to not breaking it while pulling. If I could do it, anyone can ;)

I was pleasantly surprised at how easy this turned out to be — despite the fact that I opened the phone to discover no exposed adhesive tabs at all!

Turns out my daughter had her battery replaced at a third-party vendor at some point, without telling me. Apple refused to change the battery since it wasn’t theirs. (Didn’t just refuse special pricing — refused to do it, altogether!) Perhaps that was because there were no exposed tabs. But I used the microwaved rice in a sock trick from the comments on step 23, and battery removal was pretty easy. (Battery held in with just one adhesive strip, entirely under the battery.)

Reassembly was a snap, and all seems to be good. Ready to hand off to my mother; hopefully the battery quality will be good, and it will last a long while!

holy crap. it was tedious but watching the videos to start with and then reading through the guide while doing the actual repair got me through it. My first problem was breaking the 2nd adhesive strip. Had to heat it the phone and then use a flat card (with no numbers engraved). i did bend the battery (no rupture) so I should have been more patient. A side to side motion with the card worked best for me. you can also put the card in at an angle using a corner as long as you’re careful.

The second problem I had was bending the battery connector in the same way that the original came to make sure it fit in. It takes some trial and error. Do NOT crease the cable.

Ordered the iPhone6 battery replacement kit. The kit was okay. The battery was not. The battery’s cable design is flawed. The cable extends into the logic board too far and causes issues with fit and placement.

Several others here have comment about both the battery cable and the blue spot where the cable is negatively effecting the screen. Upon first installing I also had the screen impact issue. It is noticeable when on white screens and when pressing home and bottom frame.

So the cable should orient along side the battery and then over to the right, connecting to the logic board. When taking out of the package the cable was mashed on top of the battery. I corrected to the side, but then it extended too far right.

I attempted to fix the placement of the battery cable by aligning it along the battery and then using the spudger tool to bend a radius into a small void between the battery and the logic board. This is not an ideal solution as it still impacts the screen. iFixit needs to source a better battery.

Thank you all for your feedback, and thank you @mjv_fixit for sharing your insight as well!

Our Support team is here to help! If you encounter trouble getting your iFixit battery to fit in your device, or if the cable is not wanting to align the way it should, let us know. We’re willing to send free replacements for these issues.

We’re not able to monitor every comment on every repair guide (there are simply too many to follow), however we are here to assist if you’d like to reach out to us. You can find our contact information on '''http://help.ifixit.com'''.

Reporting successful battery replacement for my iPhone 6. This was my first time working with an iPhone, but generally the process was smooth.

Some pointers:

1. I did not disconnect the display assembly. If you are careful enough, it is not required. However, in general, follow the guide recommendation and remove it for safety. I took a risk and it paid off.

2. Working with the battery adhesive requires patience and gentleness. Slow and steady wins the race as they say. A few times, the adhesive strip did break for me, but I was able to retrieve it using tweezers each time.

3. Installing the replacement battery was tricky. Although I placed the replacement very carefully, the connector was off by an infinitesimal margin. I had to bend about the connector to get it plugged in somehow. I recommend trying out the connector and placing the battery without adhesive first to get acquainted with the fit. It can save you tons of time!

I followed almost all of the steps and had no problems. The only thing I did not do was heat up the phone to loosen the adhesive under the battery. I was able to pull the strips out no problem using slow even pulling force. Next time I would apply heat to make it even easier to remove the adhesive. I could have done the whole job without removing the screen but I would not recommend doing that as you could damage your screen or worse, tear the ribbon cables attached to the screen. Patience is key to performing all tech repair successfully.

After being screwed over at the Apple store on my battery replacement (long story) I researched doing it myself. ifixit seemed to be the most reputable firm out there by a long stretch so I went with them and I’m very happy I did. I’m 62 and need reading glasses but I am very handy. Anyway ordered the kit for the iPhone 6 plus Took me about 20 minutes but it worked. Only problem I had was the power clip alignment. I pushed the battery up into the slot as recommended but the clip would not align. Should have plugged the clip in first I guess. I had to remove the tape then use my own double backed tape. Should work fine, it will just be harder to replace but by then Apple won’t support this phone. Except for that it’s great. Great instructions and video. Tool kit was perfect and my phone is as good as new. Great site, thank you. I’ll be using you again when my wife’s battery needs replacement .

Can’t read all these comments. I soldiered through to replacing all those screws. Most of them just don’t catch. I screw screw screw and they come right out. Bummed. One flipped out and disappeared. Wish I’d never removed all those screws. Hope someone at the Verizon store can put them all in.

@jkwh “Most of them just don’t catch”—sounds like the screws are mixed up. On repairs like this it’s important for each fastener to go back where it came from. With a digital caliper and some patience, you can sort it all out using the screw length measurements given in the guide. When you find a screw that appears to be the right length and head type, try carefully threading it into place and see how it feels. If it doesn’t feel like it’s cinching down properly, back it out and try a different one. Good luck!

this is how I did this on an iphone 6. I did it just as described in the VIDEO, only removed the 2 screws holding down the battery plug cover, then pulled the adhesive strips out and changed the battery, one thing that is important is when reinstalling the battery it is most important that the plug aligns with the socket as the ribbon cable isn’t very flexible. I put the battery aligned at the upmost top as she described and it was too far and I had to pry it down to a lower position to get the battery plug to snap in. Thanks for this step by step tutorial. I decided to do this myself as getting an appointment at an Apple store is impossible with my schedule. Glad I did, it is really easy and I am shaky and have old bad eyes. An Optivisor is my friend HAHA

Thanks ifixit for the excellent instructions. I never removed the screen. I just propped it up on the iphone box I still had and from the comment section a user said to put a rubber band around it to hold in place. The ribbon cables are fragile but if you careful, slow and don’t move your phone too much when removing the battery it should not be an issue. I did not want to mess with the connections or the many screws that held the screen in place. My tape broke under the battery. I used a hair dryer on low speed high heat to warm it up after this. I pried up on the battery to get to the tape underneath and managed to get both removed with the tweezers then my fingers. Heat is the trick although not too much. Make sure your battery is almost dead. Upon prying up on the battery I punctured it. A nice lithium gas cloud came out of it. Since it was drained it was minimal no fire. No issues with installing the new battery. The phone seems to operate better, hold a charge. We will see after a full day at work

Stupid left adhesive strip broke but thanks to my iFixit toolkit (the big one not the one with the battery), I had all the tools I needed to get it off the back of the phone without busting the battery. Otherwise, the only tool iFixit doesn’t provide that would have been really really helpful was a freaking magnifying glass.

Finished the Fix for a co=-worker. I had a very difficult time with the battery. Only a small portion of the either adhesive strip came out. To get the battery free, I used an ID card, but I had to it in a corner first. That allowed me to slowly start to peal back the adhesive. I could work the corner of the ID card up and down the side of the battery until I could get the card in there side wise. I just had to work at it until it broke free. It took about 2 hours. Not my best day but far from my worst.

Nightmare getting the battery out. Really didn’t like heating with a hairdryer but it worked. Ended up sliding a credit card from the end of the battery at the bottom side. Got there in the end. Great guide. Thanks.

Getting the battery away from the adhesive strips is very very difficult. The floss idea is silly. Nor is there a credit card strong enough to pry it out. While the provided tools are first rate, there is none specifically for this, arguably the most difficult part of the process. You will end up prying it out with the plastic bar.

Besides that (expletive) adhesive, getting the digitizer re-attached was the hardest part for me. Once that got reattached, the rest of the bits came back together nicely. Letting the battery drain now, and testing everything else. I haven’t had to wipe the phone yet, so here’s to hoping I don’t need to…

Just finished replacing the battery on my iphone6. As I do with car repair, I made sure to have a good work setup, following the instructions exactly. I used a bit of masking tape to hold the tiny screws in the pattern needed for reassembly. Even though it seems odd to remove the lid of the phone completely, remember you are working on an electrical circuit, removing and applying power. So it is prudent to disconnect the lid as described, remove the battery, install the new battery then disconnect the new battery until the lid connectors are reinstalled.

I didn’t practice with my suction cup tool that came from ifixit, so i had to figure out how to release it while the phone was coming apart.

The pentalobe screws came out really easily and I put them back in vs replacing them with philips head screws provided by ifixit.

The biggest problem I had was with the adhesive strips! They wanted to stick to everything and they won’t come off if they do. Be super careful on this part.

This battery swap went very smoothly. I used additional task lighting and magnification (I have older eyes). I was surprised at how easily the phone came apart. I think the keys are to read the instructions completely prior to beginning , organize your workspace and tools, relax, and take your time. Be certain to keep the screws organized during disassembly as correct placement during assembly is critical. I kept a hand towel nearby since my hands began to perspire upon reassembly. The instructions were clear and succinct. Thinking about replacing the HDD on my iPod Classic next.

This was a nightmare trying to remove the battery. The adhesive strips broke off a the very top of the battery when I tried to pull them out. It took a hair dryer and a lot of prying with a plastic card and the long black spunger to get the battery out. I managed to not puncture it, but it is severely warped. Now my down-volume button does not work; guess I nicked the flat volume cable under the battery prying it out and will have to use the adaptive technology screen control button to lower my volume from now on out. I hate this phone, but I just got it paid off. Going Android next phone. Can’t wait…

Well, miracles never cease! After trying all the software resets I could find online, I decided to go back in and reset all the connectors on the outside chance I got one misaligned and I got my volume control (lower) button to work again! I had to pull the shield off of the volume control ribbon cable and reseat it, but it apparently was the problem, or it was one of the 4 connectors from the screen -whatever, it worked. Still want an android, but at least the phone is fully functional for now…

I did this yesterday and it was extremely straight forward with the tools provided….apart from the pesky sticky strips!!

A tip for anyone in the UK that has wall mounted central heating that have the vents at the top. I laid my phone on one of them for about 5-10 mins and it warmed it enough to allow me to pry the battery up to be able to grab the strips with the ifixit pointy pliers and stripped them out in a few minutes.

I used a stiff triangular guitar plectrum to lift the battery. It bent a little but was safe.

The tutorial is very clear and felt very proud of myself once completed and the phone restarted without any issues.

I fix two iPhone 6 following instructions and was easy. One of them had replaced the battery many times and the first connector of the screen (the top one, the one that you disassemble the last) was curved. The result is that the screen was full of lines and unusable. I pressed slightly with the pry bar till I straighten it and everything was OK again.

Only one question: I have iOS 11.3 b5 and the battery health tell me about the need to repair and the detailed screen tells me “—” in maximum capacity. Both iphone with iFixit batteries.

UPDATE….. to my battery repair. I don’t have an Apple store in town, fixing it myself was my only option because I did not want to be without my phone. It worked fine for several months. Then I believe the battery started causing the phone to crash at 50% battery life. I put it on the charger and it was at zero battery %. I would charge it and it would jump to 75% within a ½ an hour. A few articles I read said it is probably the battery. I am not sure where Ifixit sources their batteries but mine must have been a dud. Worked great for 3 months. I didn't want to repair my phone again. It was too much of a pain the first time. In the end I sent it in to Apple for repair. I requested a box to send it in, which took a day to get. I sent it Thursday, it was done on Friday and back to me on Tuesday. They never said anything about having a non-apple product in the phone and they would not repair it. My phone works great again, good battery life no crashes. Just a heads up that you might end up in my situation.

Great guide! , I had no problems and a lot of the steps were really easy , take your time on the adhesive strips because if you do then the battery pretty much removes itself no need for prying and heating . hope to write a guide this good myself soon!

all went well (no problems removing the battery) until when I tried to power the iPhone up after reassembly. No power up Even after connecting power adapter. Just to check the battery, I opened up the phone again and kept the screen etc attached. I disconnected the new battery and laid the old on top of the new and connected it and attached the power adapter. And the phone works with the old battery. Any thoughts or recommendations?

or not; when I closed the case, all was well, but when I snapped the phone into its protective case, it went dead. I suspect I may not have made good enough connections to one of the connectors between the screen and the case.

I’ve been thinking about replacing my iphone6 battery because I had to get an unauthorized battery last year (battery dying, overseas trip coming up, no official batteries available). But: Apple, won’t touch it now because it has a 3rd part battery in there (“safety hazard”)

An authorized dealer to me that if you upgraded IOS while a 3rd party battery was installed, the phone would not work if you try to reinstall an official battery.

I have recently replaced my iPhone 6 battery with an iFixit battery and everything works normally after iOS11.3 upgrade. The only problem I see is that the new Battery Health section does not seem to work with this battery, it does not show either Max Capacity or Max Performance Capacity.

The same here - Battery “need servicing” as per the battery health section.

Also - if the battery is depleted down so the phone shuts down, the phone starts twice upon starting the charge — ie plug in the phone in the charger — the phone starts up and then upon reaching the enter the passcode shuts down as if there is insufficient charge. in a moment it starts anew and completes the boot as supposed. not a big hassle - just annoying. Suspicion that the battery calibration is not happening as supposed.

Excellent write up. I’d done this twice now, on both occasions the white strips tore. Spudger needed to pull battery away from case. Second time replacement white strips bunched up and stuck to themselves. Option include 1 or 2 spare sets of white strips would be great.

Worked as advertised. I suggest removing the glass, just makes it easier to hold the lower half using both hands so one can wiggle the tweezers around a bit when removing the old adhesive, installing the new adhesive and securing the battery connector cover., . The screws are TINY, so I’d suggest a magnetic pad to keep the screws organized. Also suggest the screw tool heads be magnetized before beginning ( a refrigerator magnet will do the job), just lay them on a magnetic strip for an hour or so before beginning. Take your time, it took me 3 hours because when I felt I was rushing…..moving to fast, having problems with dexterity etc…I’d just walk away from the job for 20 minutes or so. This is a great product and I’d recommend it to anyone replacing an iPhone battery.

I’ve done almost 500 of these, and have removed the haptic motor (beneath the battery) every single time. It’s easier to remove the adhesives without the haptic motor in place; there’s just more room to maneuver. Besides, it’s two %#*@ screws. You’ve come this far, don’t be lazy.

A tip on adhesive removal: There’s a piece of thin black plastic that folds over the lowest 1/4” of the battery. This piece of plastic is responsible for 100% of broken adhesives. If your adhesive is stuck to this piece of plastic when you pull on it, it’s going to snap. Start pulling slowly, and watch to see if the adhesive is actually moving out from under the battery, or just stretching thinner and thinner. If you starting pulling and the adhesive isn’t moving, if there’s too much tension and it feels like it’s going to break, try sliding the adhesive from left to right to detach it from that piece of black plastic. Good luck.

I completed the battery replacement on my i-phone 6 yesterday. I only had problems with the adhesive, but I worked through it. I’ve checked almost all the phone functions and everything is working. The new battery had a 50% charge. I let the battery run down to less than 8% charge and hooked up the charger. I let it charge to 100%. That was about 10:00pm. When I got up this morning the phone was completely discharged. I charged it again to 100%. It’s now almost 3:00pm and my i-phone is down to 46%. I received one phone phone call of only 1 min. in duration. other than that I’ve not used the phone at all. The i-phone is not holding a charge.

You should probably start by doing a full calibration. I don’t think draining it to 8% does anything helpful—I’ve had batteries that drained to an indicated 5% and then lasted for hours before slowly slipping down to 1%. The reading just isn’t that accurate until you calibrate. Follow the instructions, charge to 100%, then discharge until it shuts itself due to low power, then recharge to 100% without interruption. This resets the full-charge and discharge flags so you can get a more accurate reading. Do a force restart as instructed and then test it again. If that doesn’t help, you may have gotten a defective battery and you should simply ask for an exchange. Good luck!

I had the same issue and a poor quality battery was the reason. iFixit will send you a replacement, but the whole process didn’t work out well for me as I ended up damaging my phone while replacing the second battery and I ended up with a new phone anyway.

The introduction at the top of this guide, and the conclusion both list battery calibration instructions, and if you bought the kit from iFixit there’s a card in there telling you how, as well. “For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain it below 10%, and then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.” If that doesn’t seem to work, then it’s a good idea to completely deplete the battery as Jeff mentioned.

I was very disappointed in the poor quality of the battery provided by iFixit. Replacement of the first battery went well, but the battery would not hold a charge properly and the phone would crash at 50% charge and would not restart unless plugged in and charged. I reported this and iFixit sent a free replacement battery. Unfortunately that repair did not go as well - I had a very difficult time removing the first iFixit battery. Once the repair was done my phones earpiece speaker and front (selfie) camera did not work (some cable damaged). At that point I have given up and replaced my phone with an SE. Bottom line: beware that the replacement batteries are NOT the same quality as the originals, and every time you dig into your phones innards you risk damage. Disappointed, and probably the last repair I will ever attempt.

I also had a poor quality battery. I started a support ticket but it was never resolved or replaced. Had issues with the wiring connector being incorrect size; this pressed on display back plate and caused color distortion. Though it somewhat lasted, power-wise, about 9 months before failure.

Thanks for the good discription. I have changed the Akku from my iPphone 6+ and the 6 from my brother, but now is my question how we can reset the batterie in iOS, because we can’t see the max. capacity of our Akku.

Before the update iOS 11.3 is available, I used an app to check the capacity and the apps works great before and after changed of my akku. I used an alternative Akku in my phone and an original Akku in the phone from my brother and we have the same problem.

So everything seems to back back to normal. But now my rear camera doesnt seem to work. The camera that is facing you(on the side with the screen is the one that doesnt work. But the main back camera with the flash and the logo on it does work. What went wrong? also with the straps on the connectors near the top, one of them seems to be tearing, not the connector itself just like the little film like holding, its not completely broken off but it has small tear, that should be fine(is this part replaceable?)

Guys watch out ! When you try to remove the battery because the strips ripped dont use the housing as a lever because it will bend and then the display doesnt fit well anymore. I did so and it took me a while to figure out why the screen doesnt fit and also to bend it back. But nevertheless- very good instruction!

The video makes it simpler than it is. First off after opening up the phone, the next step on the video is to pull the plastic ties that glue the battery. It is not the case because the top part of the phone is still connected to the rest of the phone

The steps say to detach it from the phone itself, then remove other parts before actually trying to remove the battery

As for the steps, they should mention the adhesive tabs are solidly glued on the iniiermost side of the battery and they just don’t pull away. Mines broke and I had no other way to proceed but to take it to a shop

Neither the video, nor the instructions pass muster, and the difficulty should not be moderate. It’s more than that

Be careful when dislodging the screen to not crack the glass. I had a glass screen protector on it and I believe it caused my screen to digitizer glass to shatter when I pried the screen off as described in the directions. This was my third battery replacement and the first time the screen cracked.

Little disappointed… this is the second battery for my iPhone 6. I fully believe it’s iPhone issues not the i fixit battery. Regardless I ordered a second battery. I have all the tools from the first replacement. So I only ordered the battery. HOWEVER it is not clear that the replacement battery doesn’t come with adhesive strips. Now I’ve got a phone sitting open with no way to install the new battery. I’m going to have to leave it open while I wait. Not a great thing to,have sitting around an apt for a week. It’s also not obvious that the white card in the battery bag is just info not the strips like I thought when I did parts inventory. More clarity about what does and doesn’t come in each order selection would be very helpful to those of us that only do this out of necessity or professionally. The above guide though is excellent.

The part-only battery product page states: “Note: This option does not include tools or the Battery Adhesive Strips.” That said, you don’t have to leave the phone open for a week—just put a little double-sided scotch tape in there to secure the battery. As long as you don’t take it jogging or anything like that, it should hold just fine until you get the adhesive strips.

I replaced my battery without issue but the problem remains the same - the phone will not respond in any way. I’m noticing now, however, that the EMI shield over the A8 chip gets warm when the (new) battery is connected after pressing the power button. Does that mean I need a new logic board? Anything else I can try?

It’s had no liquid damage I know of and I’ve always only used Apple chargers & Lightning cables.

I replaced the battery. I had turned it on and had issues with the display. It had gray and white bars and the touch screen did not work. I figure I messed up a connection on the display. Went back and reconnected those display connections…now it wont turn on….Any one have any idea what’s wrong?

After reading these comments, I am never going to try this. Apple will replace your iPhone6 battery for $29 thru 2018. I just had mine replaced at an Apple store. This fix looks WAY too difficult. BTW, I did use iFixit instructions to replace a laptop battery a few years ago. Their instructions are great.

Hi everyone, got it all right had to use my wife blowdryer to remove the tape. Unfortunatly i messed the new ones and decided to place the battery back without the tape. It works fine, i’ll try to order some and place them again. hope in the meantime my phone will work well.