After seeing the awesome Berrybot3D by Werner Berry I got magnet fever and had to have one. I did not have the time to cnc mill and lathe the required parts out of metal so I decided to see if I could make a printable part set. Well I did and it worked better than I could have ever hoped. I'd like to share it with the community so they can benefit from it. Please find the details below. Don't hesitate to post any questions you have in this thread. The details below are a work in progress and I will continue updating them as required.

- Magnets http://shop.revolutionmachines.com/3-8- ... 8-12pc.htm (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE MAGNETS SNAP TOGETHER AND NEVER USE PLIERS ON THEM. THEY ARE FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK)- Balls http://www.ebay.com/itm/380140413083- Alum or carbon fiber tube x 6 @ exactly 240mm long- 12 x 3mmx6mm cap head allen screws to be jb welded to the balls. Important: Clean the balls and the screws in an acetone bath before gluing.- JB Weld (Mix it well)- Assorted 3mm screws, washers and locknuts to mount the components- CA glue

- Use a small dab of jb weld to glue the 3mmx6mm screw to the ball. I use one of the boom ends with the magnet in it in a vice to hold the ball. The magnet will help suck the screw down when you are gluing it. Let it cure under a lamp about 12" from the bulb.- Use a 3mm washer under every ball on the effector and the cheapskate mounts.- Use 3mm cap head screws to secure the cheapskate ball mounts to the cheapskate carriages.- Use a longer 3mm screw to cut the threads for the balls in the effector and cheapskate ball mounts. Don't try and thread with the ball- Use CA to glue the ball ends to the tubes if you don't have a push fit (don't forget to put the magnets in). Make sure all the arms are the same length.- make sure you use 3/8" outer diameter tubes for the arms cut to exactly 240mm. This will match the firmware #define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 269.0 // mm in configuration.h- You need to #define END_EFFECTOR_HORIZONTAL_OFFSET 36.5 in configuration.h for the new effector. (if you don't do this you prints will be too large)- The stock seemecnc hot end will work in this but don't use the standoffs. You want to keep the hotend away from the printed effector.- I used 1/4" light ply to laser cut the all the dxfs EXCEPT for the J-Head groove mount which is thinner material.

Nice print! Looks like those joints are working out. I think your hot end also as a lot to do with the quality of the prints you are getting.Can you post a link to that last file you printed? I would like to give that a shot soon. Also I am assuming you are using KISS?

aerouta wrote:Nice print! Looks like those joints are working out. I think your hot end also as a lot to do with the quality of the prints you are getting.Can you post a link to that last file you printed? I would like to give that a shot soon. Also I am assuming you are using KISS?