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Step by step continued BUILD THE FINISH Sand the first coat smooth, then apply two coats of shellac at a 1-1⁄2-lb. cut to build a uniform protective film. Sand between coats. When the surface is completely dry, sand with P320 grit. Use a stearated paper, like Norton’s 3X, which has a soapy coating that resists clumping and clogging. Dry finish won’t clog sandpaper. Sanding dry shellac will produce a fine powder (right). If the finish isn’t quite dry, the sandpaper will clog almost immediately. A heavier cut builds faster. For the second and third coats, brush with a 1 ⁄ -lb. cut. Heavier cuts get tacky soon after they’re applied, so work quickly. TIP Brush care is easy drying finish, start at a far corner and work toward your body. Use long, continuous strokes, overlapping them by ⁄4 in. If you miss a spot or leave a drip, don’t go back and touch it up—overworking it will leave deep brush marks that have to be sanded out. In two hours, sand with P320grit to knock down the raised grain. Don’t use alcohol to remove dust after sanding shellac, because it will reactivate the finish. Use a tack cloth or compressed air instead. To store your brush, give it a few dips in alcohol and wrap it in a paper sleeve to keep the bristles straight and clean. The shellac that remains in the bristles will harden, further protecting the brush’s shape during storage. When you’re ready to use it again, just soak it in alcohol to soften it up. Heavier coats build faster The second and third coats—at a 11⁄ -lb. cut—can be applied generously, in the same fashion as the first. Heavier cuts get tacky almost as soon as they’re applied, so work quickly to avoid brush marks. You can apply your third coat two hours after the second coat, 42 FINE WOODWORKING then let everything dry overnight. The finish will appear very glossy, but don’t sweat—you’re not done. Finish the finish Before the final coat, it’s time to address any drips or imperfections. Use a fresh razor like a card scraper to knock down drips, then rub out all surfaces with a maroon abrasive pad for an even matte sheen. Use the 1-lb. cut for the final coat, and let everything dry overnight. For the final rubout, use super fine (0000) steel wool to knock down the sheen. If you want to add a coat of oil-based varnish for extra durability, now’s the time. Apply paste wax with a soft cotton T-shirt rag, then buff it off for a deep, satiny finish. □ Mario Rodriguez is an instructor at the Philadelphia Furniture Workshop.