Didn't have time to work on the truck so I towed it to a friends shop...so far there is NO fuel flow...could be the relay or the pump if I had to make a guess...It has been slow in starting lately, so the pump may be the problem.

I am experiencing a problem with the a/c and heater controls on my 2004 GMC Sierra 3500. I have the dual zoned a/c heater control system. The driver's side of the system, when set on cold running the a/c will all of a sudden switch to hot air blowing thru the vents, but only on the driver's side. The passenger's side continues to blow cold air. No matter what I do, slide the temp control up and down, turn off the fan control, or switch the vent control to a different setting, the hot air continues to blow. The only way to make it go back to the a/c mode is to turn off the ignition and then restart the truck (very inconvenient when driving down the road). Sometimes this will happen often, then other times it will act normal for weeks without incident. Any ideas?

I&#146;m sorry to hear about the noise concern you&#146;re having with your vehicle &#150; have you been working with Customer Assistance at all? Please email us your information via the email listed in our profile if you&#146;d like help working with a dealership to resolve this concern.

hi i have a 2010 chevy silverado diesel i have soot blowing out the right side of truck when pulling fifth wheel it gets the leg on the 5th wheel black i have been told the filter needs replaced but it looks fine i might go ahead an replace it anyway i wanted to know if there was a exhaust tip i could purchase to blow out the side or down instead of the standard straight back thanks for any help linda

Just replaced alt, and found that the box on the top of engine on drivers side is smoken hot, only showing 13v on the charge meter, and seems to be shorted, is this a common problem and what do i look for to get replacement parts

i have an 04 3500 crew dually 4x4, 6.6L Duramax 180,000miles, all stock except the aluminum wheels. I am getting 23mpg open highway and 16mpg in town heavy traffic. My best fuel mileage open highway is 71ish mph... if I run 55-65 the mpg drops off. I typically drive 500+ miles per week for work so this one NEVER sits around idle, that might be the secret?

Hello I am new to this forum and in need of help. I purchased a late model 2004 Silverado LLY diesel extend a cab 2500 HD truck that will not start. So far I replaced the fuel injection pump which is a job I hope I never have to do again. I replaced all the glow plugs and one injector. Also replaced the fuel filter. Truck has 230 k miles. It has been at a GM Chev dealership for 2 days and the mechanics have been unable to start it. (Fires a little when cranking) They have checked compression and all is good and the fuel pressure is at approx 5200 lbs when cranking. GM mechanic is telling me there are no trouble codes. He thinks it might be the Fuel Pump Injector Module ($2000) item but no guarantees. They are going to call GM Technical Department for some help. Can anyone give me some advice as to what might be preventing this engine from starting. Anything I can tell the mechanic to look into. Thanks

Weephee when u changed the fuel filter did u fill it with diesel and prime it? I know when I changed the fuel filter on my 03 DMax I have to prime it and crank it for 15 min. Before it would start back up. Open up the bleeder screw on top of the filter housing and push the primer. Fuel should squirt out with not bubbles. Hope this helps.

Thx dozerdogg for your reply. I did all you suggested and it still wouldn't start. After 4 days of consulation between the mechanic and GM tech support, they are 95% sure it is the FICM. Dealer wants $2000 for it and I found a new one on ebay for $450. Dropped it off at the dealer today so perhaps on Monday the truck will be running. I will report back soon. Thx again

I came back from the dealer today and the engine will still not start with the new FICM. GM techs and dealer mechanic and the shop forum can not figure it out. Any ideas out there what can be tried next. Please help.

We're sorry to hear that your dealership has not been able to get this resolved; if you would like for us to follow up on this with them, please email the following information to us at socialmedia@gm.com: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your current dealership.

Still no solution after two weeks at GM Chev dealer. Can anyone tell me what the supply voltage is to the injectors. I believe supply voltage is from the FICM. Mechanic says it should be 48 volts but I can't find that anywhere in the shop manual. Is is 48 volts or 12 volts. THX.

Truck has now been at the dealers for 3 weeks and still no start. Gave them another ECM which they programmed and it made no difference. BTw the voltage on the injectors is 48 volts. They also did a fuel by-pass on the two injector rails and the results were within GM tolerances so that isn't the problem. Now they want to remove a few injectors and have them tested to see if that might be the problem. When they did the by-pass test there were a lot of air bubbles entering the injectors. I think they might be coming from the fuel filter hand pump so I've ordered a gasket set to replace the 0-rings. Also replacing the water collector at the bottom of the fuel filter. Is anyone interested in what is happening here. If I don't hear from someone, I guess I will quit reporting.

i am currently going through same problam changed steering columb truck started ran fine put my steering wheel with computer buttons on steering wheel will not start again bin two months no truck if you solve this problem could you please let me know ill do the same thanks

Hi drjones1235. The only thing that we might have in common on these trucks is that my clockspring is broken so I get an airbag trouble code and the steering wheel buttons do not work. Are you getting any trouble codes. Is your truck at a gm dealer I will change the clock spring this weekend and see if that makes a difference although I can't see why. Let me know if you make any progress.

My 2003 Chevrolet Duramax shows low oil pressure on the gauge after it warms up. I have no power loss, it doesn't ping or knock, no smoke at all. Everything seems fine, but this oil pressure issue freaks me out. How/ where do I check it with a gauge?

We have a 2005 Seneca motorhome with Duramax that we bought from a Chevy dealership in May 2013. It only had 8000 miles on it, which is not unusual for a motorhome because it is not a daily driver. However, there was not warranty becuase it is 8 years old. We have put just over 600 miles on it and the last trip out the crankshaft broke in half. It had to be towed and needs a new engine to the tune of $13K! GM is claiming no responsibility. Has anyone ever experienced this kind of breakdown on a Duramax especially with so few miles on it? We truly thought this motor would last "forever".

I have never heard of this problem, yet it concerns me, I know of several D-max's that have well over 150 K and still run very strong. I would be checking vin #s to make sure every thing matches and that was the original motor for that vehicle. Something doesn't sound right. I wish I had a better response for you, but I wish you the best of luck. Please let us know, (the readers) how you make out,

I have a 2007 Chevy silverado 2500hd durmax.. I ran out if gas and now it will not start .. I primed it I even tried the wd40 and and fuel in filter.. Will not start.. Someone said could be fuel injector or fuel pump.. Anyone know where to start and how do I no which one it is??? I have primed so mc it killed my battery! Help

2005 GMC Sierra HD2500 - the heater motor only works on high speed, when it's on lower speeds the abs and brake light come on in the dash and service brake system warning scrolls across dash. And the same lights and warning come on when 4 wheel drive is activated. Anyone seen this before or have any suggestions?

Wow 18 pages of bad stories. Don't think I'll be getting a diesel. I have an 06' gas 4.8l vortec with 200k and never ONCE had an issue with the motor or transmission. I just change the fluids and put gas in, no problems. The only things replaced under the hood are the belts, spark plugs and battery (once each).