Crankset for heavy guys, yes I did a search...

I just got into mountain biking a few weeks ago. Bought a Focus Black Forest 2.0 with the Rockshox Silver something forks, kinda beefy and Shimano Deore cranks.

Anyways I finally started getting off the city bike trails and into the dirt. First time I had to hammer down I felt some serious flex and heard a nasty metallic pop come from the cassette or maybe chain ring. I've got a bad ratchey (is that a word) noise coming off the bottom of the bike in the gears somewhere now.

I have not yet looked into the problem going to do that today after work.

Anyways, to the point. I'm between 5-11 and 6' and weigh 260. Im in the catagory of not all fat but not all muscle. I know from experience that even with a ghandi prison diet and strenuous exercise getting below 230 probably wont happen.

What crank-set, can I get that will handle the torque? While I'm at it I want to convert to a 1x setup. I will learn how to do all my own work on the bike and I want it as simple as possible.

I did a search on this and didn't get any solid leads. I see guys calling themselves heavy at 210 lbs, I'll still be 20lbs over that when its all said and done and I'm back in shape.

Will a Shimano slx, Sram x9 or something similar be able to do it?

I don't really care about weight. I want it tough and high quality enough to transfer to another bike if I ever manage to bust up the one I'm on.

I'm riding a TruVativ AKA (SRAM) crank and it is pretty awesome. I've been riding it since 320 pounds, now down to 265. It's a single speed setup so it sees lots of torque and doesn't miss a beat. It looks pretty darn good as well.

It's also nice cause you can run it with three rings, two rings, one ring, or spiderless. So it's very versatile. I also have a SRAM X.9 crank that is pretty much identical. If anything, maybe slightly lighter but I've never weighed them to see. It's going on another bike. I haven't ridden it yet to tell if it's as good as the AKA or not but I'd suspect it is.

Nothing wrong with your weight or the kit you are riding on. It didn't flex. A rock might have hit the bike and caused the noise you heard. Get a mechanic to look at it rather thn just spending money on something that won't fix problem that isn't there.

[QUOTE=TooTallUK;10508426]Nothing wrong with your weight or the kit you are riding on. It didn't flex. A rock might have hit the bike and caused the noise you heard. Get a mechanic to look at it rather thn just spending money on something that won't fix problem that isn't there.[/QUO

You're the second guy to tell me the cranks are fine which is good news for me. I don't want to throw money if I don't need too.

Something did flex though. There is a slight wobble in the chainring and the noise I heard was the chain hitting the front derailure, I know that's spelled wrong. I didn't go any further than that. Ill che k somemore tomorrow and take it to the shop if I can't figure it out.

Chains bounce around all over the place when you are off road, so expect it to hit the front mech, the frame etc.
As for 'a wobble in the chainring' - get that looked at. If you have bent the chainring that needs sorting - but that has nothing to do with weight.

I would have to agree with the folks telling you to keep your SLX's. They are very strong and your problem is likely elsewhere. A shop mechanic would be able to tell you quickly what the issue is. Good luck and have fun riding this summer!

I just got into mountain biking a few weeks ago. Bought a Focus Black Forest 2.0 with the Rockshox Silver something forks, kinda beefy and Shimano Deore cranks.

Anyways I finally started getting off the city bike trails and into the dirt. First time I had to hammer down I felt some serious flex and heard a nasty metallic pop come from the cassette or maybe chain ring. I've got a bad ratchey (is that a word) noise coming off the bottom of the bike in the gears somewhere now.

I have not yet looked into the problem going to do that today after work.

Anyways, to the point. I'm between 5-11 and 6' and weigh 260. Im in the catagory of not all fat but not all muscle. I know from experience that even with a ghandi prison diet and strenuous exercise getting below 230 probably wont happen.

What crank-set, can I get that will handle the torque? While I'm at it I want to convert to a 1x setup. I will learn how to do all my own work on the bike and I want it as simple as possible.

I did a search on this and didn't get any solid leads. I see guys calling themselves heavy at 210 lbs, I'll still be 20lbs over that when its all said and done and I'm back in shape.

Will a Shimano slx, Sram x9 or something similar be able to do it?

I don't really care about weight. I want it tough and high quality enough to transfer to another bike if I ever manage to bust up the one I'm on.

Thank you, I know its a long post.

Yeah I know what you did.....You ****ed up your bottom bracket!!! If it is the Deore crank....great crank by the way.....Even mid level bikes that cost over 500 bucks will have the cheap POS 4 dollar shimano cartridge. You need a higher end unit. These manufacturers love to hide this to save a whopping 15 bucks!!! I hate it when they do this!!! When I bought a bike 5 years ago, I asked specifically what bottom bracket it had and I said I will not buy it unless that was changed out. I also had them upgrade the chain as well. I was not going to pay more but to compensate, I had the XT shifters downgraded to Deore and the rear derailleur from XTR downgraded to XT. They love to go cheap on that as well. Some things for clydes simply cannot be compromised with. In fact...for a clyde, I found I am better off downgrading shifters and derailleurs for stronger stuff in other places. I have also learned that more expensive is not better. Often times the parts are so light, anything strong was thrown out of the window. SLX, Doere, Saint(if you can find it) are all good. Also the LX touring stuff is still really good.

Yeah I know what you did.....You ****ed up your bottom bracket!!! If it is the Deore crank....great crank by the way.....Even mid level bikes that cost over 500 bucks will have the cheap POS 4 dollar shimano cartridge. You need a higher end unit. These manufacturers love to hide this to save a whopping 15 bucks!!! I hate it when they do this!!! When I bought a bike 5 years ago, I asked specifically what bottom bracket it had and I said I will not buy it unless that was changed out. I also had them upgrade the chain as well. I was not going to pay more but to compensate, I had the XT shifters downgraded to Deore and the rear derailleur from XTR downgraded to XT. They love to go cheap on that as well. Some things for clydes simply cannot be compromised with. In fact...for a clyde, I found I am better off downgrading shifters and derailleurs for stronger stuff in other places. I have also learned that more expensive is not better. Often times the parts are so light, anything strong was thrown out of the window. SLX, Doere, Saint(if you can find it) are all good. Also the LX touring stuff is still really good.

I didn't see this post. I'll have em look at that and ask them about it.

He can't make that call from what you described, so there is probably nothing wrong with your bottom bracket. Get your bike shop to give it the once over, then ride it again and keep riding it until something does break! Then you can think about upgrading a component, but not until you've worn it out / broken it!

One of the cogs was trying to lift the chain off of the cog the chain was riding on. This was somewhere near the middle of the cassette. I adjusted the deraillure and got that fixed. There is still some funky shifting going on when the chain moves to the largest cog.

Some noise out of the cassette when pedaling hard in the smaller cogs. For the first time ever messing with something like this I was glad to get it dialed in enough to ride and shift through all the gears. It shifts real smooth on the smaller cogs but a little rougher on the last 2 larger cogs.

Will take it in this weekend, show the guys at the shop what's up and tell them what I did and get it tuned and try again next time.

Crankset for heavy guys, yes I did a search...

One of the things I have seen over the years is that the arms don't get tightened by the bike builders . Especially important if it is a square taper crank which is still produced for deore.
Get an Allen key into those bolts and tighten them down. Once a crank gets deformed it's new crank time

What the others have said, the Deore crank is a fine crank. I actually bought them for my commuter bike when I built it because of their value. They are a bit heavy but they preform top notch. I am also running the stock bottom bracket on them as well. Most likely you should have someone look at the bike to make sure that it is 100%. Also like the others have said being a bigger guy you really need to let off the pedal power when you are shifting just like in a manual car.

One of the things I have seen over the years is that the arms don't get tightened by the bike builders . Especially important if it is a square taper crank which is still produced for deore.
Get an Allen key into those bolts and tighten them down. Once a crank gets deformed it's new crank time

Bill

THats a good point. After a few days of riding when I first got the back I found my front tire loose in the forks. Tightened up the front and rear right then. When I got home went through everything to make sure it was good and tight.