Product Description: The Trracer is a simple pump gun designed to be a
beginner paint gun. The gun is based on the simple Nelson gun design
like many others are. This also provides many sources of parts like
springs and O-rings and a wealth of knowlage. The bolt, striker, striker
spring, and valve are all on the same center line, providing a low
profile, and simple mechinism. The receiver, barrel, and valve assembly
are anodized aluminum. The trigger assembly, pump, and grip are
completely plastic.

Disadvantages/Minuses:
- Valve assembly is too weak for back bottle use in some cases*
- Grip frame is plastic (adds to the above problem)
- Stock model is inefficiant when using the back bottle*
- Bad sight picture when used with a mask*
- Must switch striker springs to adjust velocity*
- Valve assembly tends to leak when playing*
- Very loud when firing*
* = A fix is available for this down fall

"My gun leaks air down the barrel when I apply preassure to the back
bottle" - - The valve tube in the reciever is flexing when pressure is
applied to the back bottle, thereby creating a leak in the actual valve
assembly. Don't put preassure on the bottle, or get a bottom line setup
for the gun (See MODS:Bottom Line Setup).

"I tend to get liquid in the gun when playing in cooler temps." - -
The liquid in the CO2 tank doesn't have enough volume space to expand
into gas. Get a bottom line setup. This will allow time for the liquid
to expand into gas in the hose before it gets to the valve. This will
only make it better, not fully solve the problem.

"My gun leaks air down the barrel all the time." - - Two possibilities,
not enough gas in tank, or your valve O-ring is dry or damaged. Push
the pin on the tank in. If you can push it in without much effort then
the tank is empty. If not, pull out the valve assembly and unscrew the
brass cap with the tube going though it. The O-ring on the silver
looking tube should be moist with oil and not damaged. If it is damaged
then replace.

"My gun blows gas out when I pump it." - - I have found that a
striker spring that is too heavy will cause the valve to be actuated
while pumping. Use a lighter spring and an adjustable bolt (See
MODS:Adjusting Velocity).

"When I autotrigger real fast, my range decreases drasticly." - - The
liquid from the tank is not expanding fast enough in the valve or the
bottom line hose. A small tank that screws into the back bottle adapter
and hooks up to the bottom line hose should give the liquid a place to
expand and also provide a buffer of gas ready for the valve system.

"My gun is too loud when firing and has 'I'm over hear ready to be
shot' written all over it's report." - - Get a Smart-Parts style rifled
barrel or a good muzzle break.

Adjusting Velocity
- - Adjustable Bolt ($21) - Changes the tension on the striker
spring by way of a long Allen wrench stuck down the barrel. A might
expensive but great for fast tune ups.
- - Nelson Spring Set ($??) - Striker springs varying in strength,
thereby changing the gas released.

Expansion Chamber ($25-50?) - - A small tank that is an intermediate point
for liquid CO2 to expand in. Helps keep constant velocity. The ones for
Semis are probably big time over kill but the right idea. John Hamilton
is the originator of the mini version (of my knowlage).

Bottom Line Setup ($45) - - Mounts a back bottle recepticle at the base
of the grip. A hose is then connected to the valve recepticle and the
bottom grip recepticle to supply the gas. The hose acts as an
anti-liquid system providing volume for the liquid to expand to gas. It
also improves the sight picture and takes the stress off the valve assembly.

Barrels
- - Custom Porting ($??) - The idea of porting the end of a barrel
is a valid idea no matter what individuals may say. I added 12 1/8"
holes to the end of the barrel and recieved a gain in consistancy in
shot to shot performance. The therory is like this: the round ball is
not perfect. Therefore when the ball leaves the barrel the gas pop
behind it will effect the ball differently each time. If you can vent
most of the gas before the ball leaves the barrel you will eliminate
some of the randomness due to that pop. You want the area of the
porting to equal the area of the muzzle. If you are unexperienced in
this area then I suggest getting a manufactured barrel since it is
easy to ruin a decent stock barrel.
- - Smart Parts ($80?) - Supposed to very good. Need input.
- - J&J ($50?) - Ditto.

This FAQ is intended to be a collection of knowlage and wisdom of this
particular gun based on comments and experiences of those in
REC.SPORT.PAINTBALL. No garauntees come with this FAQ and the author or
contributors are not responsible for mistakes or problems incured from
using this FAQ. All suggestions and comments are in good faith and do
not intend to create problems. Prices are what I have found at local
retail shops here in the Seattle, WA area.

Note: Please send all corrections and comments to me directly by email
to the above address. All info and comments not accompanied by an email
address and first name are my own. Those that send info and comments to
me will have and email address and first name attached for reference
purposes.