Sharm el-Sheikh

Sharm el-Sheikh (شرم الشيخ, also transliterated as Sharm ash Shaykh and popularly known simply as "Sharm") is a well-known port and resort town at the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt, popular with package holiday makers and divers. About 9,000 British tourists are in Sharm on any given day. Numbers have doubled in the last 3 years and seem set to continue to rise despite the worldwide economic situation.

Understand

Sharm el-Sheikh is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Arab world. But there are also some very good reasons to visit it if you are not the common tourist, who likes to lie on the beach all day. It is one of the finest diving spots in the world and a trip into the desert is an unforgettable adventure.

The Sinai Peninsula is a remote desert mountain range. The rocky mountains are parted from the deep-blue sea by a flat desert strip. This combination of desert and sea is an incredible sight and makes you believe you are on a different planet.

About 40 years ago, Sharm el-Sheikh was nothing but a small fishing village with about 100 Bedouin citizens. When Sinai was occupied by Israel in 1967 Sharm el-Sheikh started to develop as a tourist destination (like the rest of the peninsula). Israelis evacuated Sinai between 1979 and 1982, following the signing of a peace agreement between the two countries. Since the 1980's the Egyptians have been continuing the development of Sharm where the Israelis left. Sharm's 100 grew into a bustling 10,000 population. There is now a nice promenade, a Hard Rock Cafe, one of the most modern hospitals in Egypt and so on.

Orientation

Na'ama Bay part of the city is the center of nightlife and dining: most of Sharm's clubs, cafes, restaurants and shops are here.

Sharm el Sheikh has grown into three distinct areas now, Nabq is a new area to the North of Na'ama, Old Market and Hadaba to the South of Na'amaa Bay.

Get in

See Sinai for information on the Sinai visit pass, which allows visa-free travel for up to 14 days.

By plane

Sharm el-Sheikh Airport (IATA: SSH) (ICAO: HESH) is the largest in the Sinai and receives planeloads of charter tourists daily in the winter high season. The only airline for local flights is EgyptAir [5]. Your travel agent may have trouble booking flights with them but they can also be booked on some of the online booking engines.

For departures: timetable shows only nearest 1-2 hours, makes you watch over the row of check-in desks for your flight number.

Shops in the airport

By boat

International Fast Ferries [6]
runs fast boats to Hurghada on the mainland Red Sea Coast, currently running four times weekly. The ride takes 1.5 hours and costs 250/450 LE one-way/return for foreigners. Warning: this ride is notoriously bumpy and prone to cancellations.

By car / By bus

Sharm el-Sheikh can be reached by driving down the eastern coast from Eilat (Israel) via Nuweiba and Dahab, or via the western coast from Cairo. There are daily buses for both routes. From Cairo,East Delta buses take approximately 8 hrs (80 LE) while Superjet buses take 6 hrs. When taking the bus from Cairo, keep your bus ticket and passport handy, as you will pass through a number of checkpoints, which require passengers to present identification and ticket. The drive is interesting with beautiful scenary, throughout the route.

The Sharm el-Sheikh bus station is removed, by about a kilometer, from the Peace road. If you should arrive during the evening hours your only option may be to take a taxi, as micro-bus service can be spotty. Since Sharm is a tourist-driven economy, you should be prepared to do some bargaining. If you are of the hiking type, the main road is, roughly, twenty minutes from main road. Just ask anyone to point you in the direction of Peace road. Once at Peace road you should have no problem hailing down a micro-bus.

When heading to the bus station via micro-bus, it should be noted that, as of February 2009, there were no direct routes, which go down Peace road, to the bus station. In order to reach the station, you must indicate that you are going to the bus station, and want to be left off at the gas station. This may take some work, given the limited English skills of the drivers. Once at the gas station, you should see micro-buses, which will take you on the final leg. Remember, transfers are not issued, you will need to pay another fee for the final leg.

About micro-bus fees If your journey is within a kilometer or two, the cost should be about (LE 3 to 5 LE). If your stop is further out, or if you are traveling during the late night hours, be prepared to get a demand for more money, in some cases drivers may demand up to (LE 10 or LE 20). Demands for higher fees can also take place, if the driver feels he you have money! So, be prepared to negotiate. If the drivers fee is unreasonable simply get out, this will often bring down the cost. One final note on fees, when arriving, ask a local how much the bus costs before hailing one down. The information provided will give you a base-line price, from which you can bargain with.

Get around

By taxi

In Sharm the taxis are generally modern models, either Hyundai or Chevrolet. Don't bother with the meter in the taxi,it probably does not work anymore,they soon break due to the dust,and would work out more than the "fixed" prices anyway. Always note the drivers ID number. Don't assume they have meters. Locals tell you they don't. Make sure you have transportation waiting for you as Sharm el Sheikh airport is the worst part of Egypt for getting a reasonably priced taxi. They will ask for 150-400 LE for the 10 minute ride to Nabq. You will walk away from the experience feeling violated.
Make sure you have small notes and coins to pay the fare and never pay before you reach your destination making sure you only pay the pre-arranged price.Make sure that the driver knows that you are paying in Egyptian pounds and not English pounds.

By bus

There are also a fleet of blue and white tuk-tuk's, which are basically small buses which are used to ferry the locals around the region. These are a most economical method of transport compared to taxis, which are very expensive. To hail a tuk-tuk simply wait next to the side of the main street and raise your hand to flag one down as it approaches. When you take the bus, go inside and find a seat and simply pass your money forward to the driver (with the help of other passengers if you sit in the back). The fare should never be more than 15LE. If you start asking for the price the driver may very well try to make you pay much more than needed.

Make sure you have a stash of small coins and notes to pay your fare.

See

Sharm Old Town Hail a taxi or local bus to take you to to the Sharm Old Town, ask the driver for the old market. This is a much different experience for tourists staying in the Na'ama Bay area.

A visit to the desert is highly recommended. Various trips to the Bedouins, the beautiful Coloured Canyon and beyond to Mount Sinai. The more adventurous should try to find a private guide, who takes them for a few days into the mountain desert with a camel. You will walk through hidden valleys, rest at secret oasis and during the night you sleep under a breathtaking firmament.

An unusual sight and a bit exotic for a westerner are huge fans pumping fresh air to street cafes and terraces near hotels.

Enjoy the sight and sound experience and the live show at Alf Lela w Lela (A thousand and one Nights) everyday. the live show is amazing, with different shows featuring a great male Belly Dancer well known as Mero, and other belly dancers. Also some egyotians weddings, tanourra dance and shows.

Do

Diving

The Strait of Tiran and Tiran Island [in the distance] seen from Na'ama Bay north of Sharm el-Sheikh [Photo: Rolf Palmberg]

Diving is the main activity in Sharm el-Sheikh. When you dive into the warm water of the Red Sea and leave the remote desert behind, you will enter a world full of life and colours.

The reefs of Tiran and Ras Mohammed are known as two of the best diving-spots in the world. They can be reached by boat from Sharm within two hours. Ras Mohammed is the name of the southern most point of the Sinai peninsula. There, the current of the Gulf of Aqaba meets the Gulf of Suez. Due to the increase of plankton in the water the amount of fish is incredible. Huge schools of Barracudas, Sharks and Murrays can be seen there every day.

The disadvantage of its popularity is that you may find up to 20 boats at the same reef. If you take a daily-boat you may enjoy your dive in the company of fifty other divers.

The wreck of the SS Thistlegorm is generally regarded as one of the finest wreck dives in the world. However, it can also become very crowded with divers.

Smarter divers book a diving safari. This way you avoid the crowds at the popular spots and have the possibility to dive beautiful reefs way beyond the reach of any daytripping boats. The overall costs of a diving safari does not exceed daily diving and it saves you a lot of stress.

Horseback riding

Stables at Sofitel Hotel. Helpful personnel. Require helmets (provided); several pairs of riding boots available. After the ride, offer you to give showers to your horse. Bambi and Kelly are declared as the fastest horses. Too far from the desert: in 2-hours route, only 40 minutes is actual ride in desert, the remainder time is spent to get there and to return back. For 2 hours, better choose stables at the edge of desert.EUR45 for 2 hours.

There are dozens of operators who seem to use just the same route, length and sequence of stops: when you drive, you meet many groups who follow just the same route as yours. There are several really shaky pieces of the route, very much like a washboard.

Wear a long-sleeved shirt; shoes are safer than sandals. Always wear a helmet and make sure your travel insurance covers this activity. Expect all your wear (and skin) to be covered with grey dust.

2 hours of riding is just enough for a non-professional rider; expect several stops along the way. It's ideal to start your ride at 4pm or later--to catch a sunset and ride back when air is not that hot.

At departure point, choose a bike in the beginning of the motorcade: being one of the first allows to drive faster, and results in less dust.

Tiba Safari / Tiba Trip. Sold by Orbit agency and many others. Groups are 10-15 bikes; two persons per bike is allowed (although bikes are originally designed for a single person). Tasting Berber tea is very risky for your stomach--proven several times. Group is accompanied by a car with camcorder--video is not worth buying, and the car generates much extra dust (you can't do much with it unless your whole group ask in advance to not make video at all).$20 single person per bike for 2 hrs; $25 for two people sharing the same bike for 2 hrs.

Make sure you stay on the path and follow your guide, as Egypt has one quarter of the world's landmines buried in its deserts, some of them surprisingly close to Sharm el-Sheikh.

Para sailing

Para sailing is very enjoyable. But, for a less than 5 minutes ride, they charge 260 pounds for 2 persons and 220 pounds for one person.

Camel trekking

The best place to do this is in the Sinai desert on a tour with the Sinai's on their own bred camels. After this you can look up at the desert stars at midnight after having a homemade meal cooked by the Sinais themselves.

Fawanes Cafe. Lebanese cuisine. Good place for waterpipes; order a smaller one (Fawanes); apple one is ideal.

Safsafa. Probably one of the best fish cafes in the town. A rare place where grilled calmaras are really good. However, the lobster included in the mixed seafood plate is dry.

Tempo Cafe. Features some percentage of locals. Waiters are uniformed in disctinctive orange-and-green. Waterpipe is good, but when served for several people (with many hoses), the menu price may be multiplied by number of people--ask in advance; maybe it's just a scam.

Indian Restaurants. There are 3 Indian restaurants are there. One is Maharaja, on the beach pathway. Other two are India House Restaurants, of Thai Chain hotels. One is the old market and another one, opposite little Buddha, on the road near Taxi stand. Can get Indian menus.

IL Mercato, [19]. A very nice place with more than 200 restaurants and coffee shops

Drink

Fresh Guava juice is a must-try, excellent in any cafe.

Alcohol (including beer) is available in restaurants and street cafes. Travellers must be aware that taxes are now levied on alcoholic drinks that are purchased in cafes or bars that are not associated with the hotels. Please also be aware of drink prices in general as they can be relatively expensive, compared to other european destinations. Always ask to see a drinks menu before ordering a drink.

Black House. Second famous venue after Pacha club. Presumably owned by Russians.

Pacha club, Sanafir hotel, Naama Bay, ☎+20(69)360-0197-8, [2]. One of the most famous dancing clubs.

IL Mercato : a very nice place with more than 200 restaurants and coffee shops www.ilmercatosharm.com

Sleep

Most hotels in Sharm, particularly in the Na'ama Bay area cater for package tourists. There are mostly 3-6 star all-inclusive hotels and there are very few (if any) budget options

Others are quite far from Naama Bay, so you either are tied to their all-included ration, or need to pay for taxi for every dinner in Naama (although taxi is inexpensive from most of hotels).

For hotels in Na'ama Bay itself, their territory is frequently crossed by a pedestrian street, so the beach may appear across the street from the hotel building--obviously affecting privacy even when using a hotel's pool.

Mid-range

Savoy. Extremely spacious and modern rooms.

Maritim Jolie Ville Golf & Resort, ☎+202 269 014 65 (monika.elbadramany@jolieville-hotels.com), [3]. The Jolie Ville Golf and Resort Sharm El Sheikh, is the ideal location for beach seekers, gulf enthusiasts or those just looking to have a relaxing, pleasurable holiday. The hotel proudly boasts and features the only 18-hole PGA international championship golf course in the entire area (Winner of the Platinum MENA Travel Award for Best Golf Club in the Middle East & Africa in 2006).

Sierra. Very small territory for its number of visitors. Airport is very close, and planes fly over the hotel's territory.

Sofitel. Large territory is isolated and private, but still within walking distance from Naama Bay--allowing pleasant promenades through a flower alley for a dinner in Naama. Moroccan-style interior and territory decoration; territory smothered in flowers. Very courteous staff--compared to many other resorts of this grade in Sharm. Built around late 80s-early 90s, as bathrooms equipment suggests; plastic chairs on most private terraces. Large swimming pool, tennis court (pay for electric light only?), gym, horse stables available. 3 private beaches, each with a private piece of a coral reef right near the beach.

Restaurants:Horizon Bar overlooking the sea; terraces next to the pool both serve dishes from the main restaurant where the breakfast is served. Caesar salad is fine; lentil soup is not spicy and pretty good (if you like lentil soup). Pizzas are quite rubbery. Cucumber soup cold and strange. There's also an Indian restaurant, not reviewed by wikitravellers yet.

Breakfast: 6:30AM-10:30AM; buffet is not refilled after 10AM. Good choice of traditional breakfast meals; custom-made omlettes and fried eggs; coffee is American only; cocoa is made of instant. Whole fruits are not served, but all components for fruit salad are.

Get out

Mount Sinai — a holy mountain known for the ancient Monastery of St. Catherine, and thought to be the mountain where Moses received the 10 commandments. A taxi for the days that waits for you can be found for about 400 EP (January 2009) if you want to go during the day. If you want to go for the sunset or sunrise you can book a trip through one of the local operators. Mark that the cafeteria in the Monastery does not always have food, but rather chips and snacks. It can be wise to bring some food if it is not set up for you as part of your trip.

Dahab — a small and relaxing resort town 90km north from Sharm El Sheikh, just over one hour away offers a wide range of wind water sports as well as the famous Blue Hole