Hong Kong Confidential

From underground dance clubs to street art galleries, here’s our guide to the hip (but not haute) side of the Asian metropolis.

May 01, 2014
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By Judith Ritter

Photo courtesy of Above Second

Above Second

Live Music

Effortless cool is the common theme among Hong Kong’s underground clubs. Live music venue Hidden Agenda is housed in an old factory where alternative Chinese bands like Tang Dynasty play to an eclectic crowd. Over at Premium Sofa Club, where the decor includes recycled furniture – think old box TV tables – DJ Lucas Lusaka describes the dance club as “the place for people who aren’t trying to be cool.” Sense 99, technically an art collective, keeps instruments propped against the wall for anyone to use, and the atmosphere is more hole-in-the-wall 1950s jazz joint than nightclub. (We witnessed a Swedish ex-pat playing jazz tunes on a keyboard while two hipsters casually jammed on iPad synthesizer apps.)

Chinese Food

While Hong Kong has plenty of high-endcuisine, there are also affordable restaurants that serve updates of old-school favourites. Mr. Bing is a bright orange, counter-and-stools joint with a soundtrack of Chinese hip hop and a signature take on the Beijing street food jianbing. The crispy crepe, usually topped with scallions and cilantro, comes stuffed with options ranging from kimchee to Nutella. Another sliver of a restaurant is Maureen, where owner Maureen Loh (a University of Toronto grad) applies sous-vide and molecular techniques to traditional meat and fish dishes, serving them with her own custom-made lo mein noodles. And for traditional dim sum with a twist, try Tim Ho Wan, where chef Pui shatters tradition by baking – not steaming – his pork buns. Just be prepared for a wait; word is out that the restaurant’s owner was once the dim sum chef at the Four Seasons.

Urban Canvases

Though technically illegal, street art is common in Hong Kong, and the city is adorned with many colourful, skillfully painted walls. Unique pieces come and go, but curious visitors can contact Above Second, a gallery devoted to exhibiting the art genre, to find out the whereabouts of the latest works. Smaller galleries have also sprung up in industrial areas like Chai Wan, where AO Vertical occupies the 10-floor stairwell of an old factory, showcasing such emerging artists as photographer KC Kwan. In another nearby industrial building, a freight elevator leads to Platform China, where installations include the evocative videos of young artist Trevor Yeung.