It has.
I just built one of these a couple weeks ago. I did 4 of these panels and combined them into one. It was alot of time cutting, sanding, etc.

It turned out really really nice. I'll post a pic later.

My construction tips are...

No need for nailing, use Titebond II wood glue.
Set up a stop on your electric mitre saw, saves a ton of time!
Lastly, the trick I came up with for the smoothest edges that are facing you, is to take a belt sander, turn it upside down and lay it on your table. Then turn on, lock it to on position, and take each cut piece and sand the cut edges.

I painted mine, using a satin finish spray paint. Looks like a factory finish now.

What kind of wood did you use? I was thinking of using something that looks nice and just giving it a clear coat of Quick 15, or whatever replaced that when it was banned. I'm thinking it might be easiest to just clear coat the studs before sawing them, then put a dab on the ends after mounting.

Thanks for the tips. Love to see how they look, and even better, how they sound.

This was my first DIY QRD I build of pinewood. Very heavy . I made 'Skylines' after that one and to my ears the Skylines performed better.
IMO worth the extra time and efforts. Besides that, clients are more impressedheh.

I would advise against a table saw. Get a mitre saw. Table saw would be very dangerous with the small pieces. I have both, i used the mitre. It took me about an hour or so to cut all 524 pieces ( I think that was the final count)

I would advise against a table saw. Get a mitre saw. Table saw would be very dangerous with the small pieces. I have both, i used the mitre. It took me about an hour or so to cut all 524 pieces ( I think that was the final count)

Good luck!

Depends on the setup, but yes, I agree. If the wood is already cut to your desired width, than a chop saw would be what you need to cut them to size. One with a laser guide perhaps. And it would certainly be cheaper than a full blow table saw with the proper safety gear!

(unfortunately) Lots of contractors out of work right now. So there are lots of good miter saws on craigs list for cheap. If you can afford it, and you only want to buy once, find one that that also pulls forward so you can cut wide boards. I regret mine because I can only cut 6" wide boards.

I'm wanting to make a few of these for my studio, but have no real acoustic knowledge other than the fact that I need a few of these and some bass traps in my room.

If my room is 10x15 what do I need? I figured I'd put one directly in front of me/mixing board and directly behind me on the far wall. Looking at the a/m calculator at the oliverprime.com site I have no idea what to plug in for the speed of sound, low/max freq...

I think I could make them 2x3 or 2x4...but I'm not sure how this all works so I don't know if that size would work.

I'd spend a bit more time studying up but if you must go forward blindly
you should probably stick with absorption. At least read the documents at
GIK Acoustics and RealTraps before doing anything.

How does your room sound now ? What is its layout ? Construction ?
What do you want to do in it ?

Keep asking questions as that's one good way to learn.

Paul P

By 'no knowledge' I meant I don't understand all the math behind it. All the reading I've done at RealTraps and elsewhere has told me that every studio setup needs bass traps and diffusers. The room isn't finished yet so I don't know how it sounds. I used Roxul Safe 'n Sound on the walls, putting 703 in the ceiling and covering it with fabric.

The room will be used to record vocals, acoustic/electric guitar and mixing.

Can 1 1/4 inch square wood stock be used to create this diffuser? If so how would I calculate the numbers to achieve something that would yield a positive result. I ask because I already own a number of teak 1 1/4 " wood stock that I'd like to recycle into something useful acoustically speaking. Most examples that I found are using at the least 2" wood stock.

Also, I know many assume they need the 2D QRD design (as they look cool), but few seem to evaluate if they really want energy being directed in the additional plane onto the ceiling and floor! So you might want to first determine if the 1D QRD would not be better.

Also, I know many assume they need the 2D QRD design (as they look cool), but few seem to evaluate if they really want energy being directed in the additional plane onto the ceiling and floor! So you might want to first determine if the 1D QRD would not be better.

I'm considering making a few of these...just wondering if it would have a comparable effect if I halved the lengths of the wood pieces? ....my room is small (about 10'16'), and would rather avoid having the QRD jutting into the room 8" or so.

I'm considering making a few of these...just wondering if it would have a comparable effect if I halved the lengths of the wood pieces? ....my room is small (about 10'16'), and would rather avoid having the QRD jutting into the room 8" or so.

I'm considering making a few of these...just wondering if it would have a comparable effect if I halved the lengths of the wood pieces? ....my room is small (about 10'16'), and would rather avoid having the QRD jutting into the room 8" or so.

Thanks!

It's actually likely that it will be better small in your room as well, since you may not be the proper distance from an 8" deep diffusor to get diffusion down to the frequency offered by the device. If you half the diffusor, so long as you do the same quantity of increments, then you'll be simply doubling the lowest frequency the device works to. If, for example, the 8" diffused down to 500 Hz, a 4" one would diffuse down to 1kHz.
The nice thing with a calculator is that you can do the design backwards - figure out what distance you'll be from the diffusor and then use that to control the widest range of diffusion you can get at listening position.