Jacquemus: Child’s Play

“Doublefaced” was a theme that designer Simon Porte Jacquemus – known only by his mother’s maiden name – gave to his collection, inspired by Sebastian Bieniek’s photo series of the same name. But there was also a main, more poetic title: “Child of the Sun”.

Both of these ideas were appropriate for this collection of angular clothes, as if scissored by children at nursery school, and cheeks where a childish drawing would give the model a second ‘face’.

In his programme notes, the designer talked about a woman who becomes a child again, playing with make-up and clothing from her parents.

Backstage, the 24-year-old Jacquemus spoke of the death of his mother when he was only 19, and about how he cuts jackets as if done by kids in a random way.

The show was often weird, with a naked upper half of the body emerging from a paper bag of a pair of trousers, breasts and feet bare.

The surreal quality throughout the show was compelling – even if it had elements of Comme des Garçons, without that designer’s rigorous cutting. One piece stood out: a coat with a portrait neckline revealing womanly shoulders – proof of the designer’s cutting skill, and perhaps a sign of more grown-up clothes to come.

Jacquemus is one of 26 designers that have been shortlisted for the annual LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.