The Vineyard: Organic and sulfite-free wines have arrived

All Natural

Story and photo by Allstair Highet

The last time I reviewed organic wines — about 10 years ago — was a bit traumatic. The options were few, and I remember a white that distinctly tasted — and smelled — of clamshells. I dutifully reported that fact and the grower harassed me with hate mail for about a month.

The truth is that none of the organic and sulfite-free wines I tried then were very good. Sometimes the fruit was weak and foxy, the result of grape varieties or hybrids that were resistant to mold or pests, and sometimes the wine seemed to lack vibrancy or integration. Lucky for me, I don’t have a strong sensitivity to sulfites. Quite a few people get headaches or have asthmatic responses to the sulfites in wines. So, if they don’t bother you, why drink organic or sulfite-free wine?

Well, I tried about a half dozen organic wines in recent weeks and they were all very exciting. If there is something they seem to have in common— and maybe this is my mind playing tricks on me — it is that they share a gentleness in the finish, bright fruit, and juiciness. Many of the organic winemakers I’ve read about stress their clean and cold process; that might be why the fruit is so well preserved.

A word about sulfur. It’s been added to the winemaking process since at least the time of the Romans. Adding sulfur dioxide to crushed grapes does two things: It inhibits, though it doesn’t absolutely destroy, unwanted yeasts and bacteria, and it preserves the wine’s color. There are naturally occurring levels of sulfur in wine, so what you will see on the label is typically something like “no sulfites added.” You will also see wines that have “organically grown grapes” and in most cases they will have added sulfites. If a wine is labeled “organic,” then by law it has to be made without added sulfur.

2008 Orleans Hill Winery, California, Cabernet Sauvignon ($10): These guys also make an excellent Rhone-style blend. This was yummy, with blueberry, strawberry, red cherry and mint. There was a hint of caramel, a bit of vanilla, a lovely fragrance and a gentle finish. Really wonderful.

2009 Stellar Winery, Western Cape, Shiraz ($12): This South African winemaker is really interesting, and the largest producer of organic wines to the UK. The vineyard also stresses its fair trade practices and shared ownership with the workers. This was soft for a Shiraz but pleasant, with blueberry, pepper, sweet cherry and balsamic notes. Mellow and delightful.

2008 Snoqualmie, Columbia Valley, “Naked Chardonnay” ($20): This may be my favorite, and I highly recommend their website (www.snoqualmie.com), which details their sustainability practices. I didn’t like American Chardonnays before this. Featuring apricot and soft pear fruit, the wine was viscous and refreshing, with all the integrity of the fruit intact. Delicious.