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Sunday, 23 September 2012

You know how it is in the clothing game, it's only just gone Autumn/Winter and already labels are looking forward to Spring/Summer. One of those labels is Marshall Artist.One of the strengths that has always characterized
UK-based brand Marshall Artist is it's
attention to the subtle details of every piece it mints. And yet, within the
midst of curating menswear garb that is as well-made as it is detailed, the
label doesn’t belabor it's pieces with unnecessary additions to it's pieces — each
element plays both an aesthetic as well as functional role. For Spring/Summer
2013, Marshall Artist linked up with London-based videographer Santiago Arbelaez
for a well-graded and concise lookbook video that highlights a few of the pieces
from the seasonal range. Capturing the essence of the collection’s mentality
through a series of vintage film-styled scenes, the footage showcases a choice
selection of outerwear, shirting as well as pant options. Look for the
spring/summer range to be hitting select stockists from Jan 2013.

Wednesday, 19 September 2012

New luxury UK brand, Bucks and Co, aims to bring hunteresque style to the forefront of the fashion arena with the launch of their new premium collection inspired by traditional hunting wear.
Bucks and Co’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2012 is an exploration into the intricate details of traditional hunting apparel, highlighting key hunting features such as the bullet holder pocket, traditional elbow pads and functional hunter fastenings. A balance between a casual and tailored fit has been achieved within many of the key looks combining understated and stylish detailing to attain a high end result. The use of innovative colours, textures and fabrics means that Bucks and Co have pushed the boundaries and have made a powerful impact within the luxury market.
For Bucks and Co it is important to have something challenging, interesting and different to say. Viewing the world as a hunting ground; Bucks and Co seek to stand out from the crowd through the use of new styles and campaigns each season that showcase the ultimate in trend and product advancement. This season’s campaign showcases HyperBlue, an innovation in denim treatment and styling.
Within the ‘HyperBlue’ range the fabric used is more rugged, more robust, and is submerged into baths of pure indigo up to 20 times to create a colour lock which is bold, strong and uncompromising. Each style is expertly designed to reflect elements associated with traditional hunting apparel, whilst promoting a premium look for the urban landscape. The campaign features the Modern Hunter adorning a pair of jeans so blue (or HyperBlue) that the colour leaves a lasting imprint, a splash of colour on the ground where the Modern Hunter stands.
Bucks and Co aims to define the ‘Modern Hunter’ as a target consumer. This gives a fresh and contemporary spin on the hunting influence taken by the brand. The Modern Hunter is considered sharp, well dressed and well in to living and loving the carefree life. Viewed as a wear-it first style seeker, the modern hunter will pay a premium to be the first to wear a fresh new look, combining the latest labels with old school and sports classics, whilst integrating both Indie and British heritage brands.
Within the range, additional key products to look out for include tailored shirts in jewel shades and a structured gilet. Denim is a major feature of this collection and is a crucial element of AW12 trends, Bucks and Co have embraced this area, and have applied their expertise to create three classic fits.FOXThe slim fit skinny jean, for those cool enough to get away with it.GAMEThe must have tapered leg shape for trend setter, not followers.HOUNDClassic low rise comfy fit, for the lounge lover with a relaxed take on life.
The collection shows the high level of workmanship employed by Bucks and Co to create styles of a premium design. The brand is set to become a major name within the luxury field using original shaping and high quality fabrics to create a modernist look.www.bucksandco.com

Paige is the brand manager and takes care of their wholesale business, marketing/digital strategy and coordinate's all of the different events they do. Meg and Mel handle all of the sourcing, production and
manufacturing. Mel is their in house graphic designer, she does all of the branding, builds their websites and manages their online store. They do almost
everything else themselves, style and shoot the lifestyle photos, do their own PR, etc.
I managed to get Paige away from a very busy schedule, to have a chat and get more of an insight into the brand.

An Interview With Paige Cowan

When and how did the clothing label
Muttonhead begin?

Muttonhead was
conceptualized in 2009 when my two business partners Meg and Mel were finishing
up university at Ryerson in Toronto. I came on board a couple of months later
and we decided to go for it! Right off the bat we started exhibiting at
international trade shows and started learning the ins and outs of the
business.

What was the reason for naming the label
Muttonhead, and where does the name come from?

The name doesn’t really mean anything; it is
totally up for interpretation, at least not in Canada. It is kind of a quirky
name that sticks in people’s heads.

You manufacture locally to guarantee
sweatshop free, fair trade and ethnical practices. Youalso
use recycled and organic fabrics, which is great. Can you tell us a bit more
about this?

Manufacturing
locally in Toronto is a really important element of our brand. It means that our
production-head gets to work closely with our contractors and that we can
ensure high quality products. It is so sad to see Canadian brands turning to
oversees production, but I also understand the pressures to do so. I think a
big part of it is trying to make your product accessible to the average
price-conscious customer. We constantly see friends and other local brands
throwing in the towel after a couple of years because it is just so hard to
remain competitive when the cost of local production means your margins are quite
small. The number one complaint we have is that our prices are too high, but I
think change is happening. Customers are
more educated than ever, and they are willing to invest in a couple of quality
garments instead of a full wardrobe of pieces that will only last one season.

We
also like to use recycled and organic fabrics because they feel amazing on your
body! Have you ever rubbed up on some bamboo or Tencel?! It not only looks
great but feels real good too.

Is there anyone or anything in particular
that inspires you to do what it is you do?

We are constantly
impressed and inspired with all of the amazing people who surround us. Not to
get too patriotic on you or anything but Canada is exploding with inspiring and
creative people, just waiting to be discovered. I think one of the huge disadvantages
we have as a country is that we don’t always support our own. You see this in
every industry where designers, artists, musicians have to get exposure down in
the US, Europe or Asia before they are recognized at home. We have been really
lucky to work with fantastic people right in our own backyard.

The rag trade is a
pretty brutal industry, especially when you are first starting out and learning
the ropes. I have met so many great people in the industry who inspire me to
work hard and keep at it. There is a huge network of support among brands and
designers, all you have to do is ask.

I've noticed you sell and have sold some sports
inspired garments e.g. gym shorts and the cycling sweatshirt, etc.Is sports inspired clothing the main focus of
Muttonhead?

A lot of people
might not know but our line started out as an outerwear brand, with its roots in
snow and skate culture. We made the transition into everyday apparel but still
held onto the sportswear look and tried to incorporate multi-functional details
into our line. All three of us grew up playing sports and we all live an active
lifestyle, so producing wearable sportswear just made sense for us.

You’re a unisex label, which is great.
There's not many or any labels in fact, that I know of that do this now.What was the reason for making all your
garments unisex and not having two separate collections, one for men and one
for women?

Our apparel
designer Meg likes the challenge of designing products that cater to both men
and women. In the past season or two we have also seen a huge rise in women “in
their boyfriends clothing” so I guess other girls were feeling like us and wanting
to explore menswear. We technically make menswear but our branding is what
makes it unisex, and the fact that all three of us girls wear Muttonhead.

You have stockists in thirteen different
countries. Impressive. Was this the aim from the beginning to branch out across
the globeor was it something that just took off
unexpectedly and happened over a period of time? And do you hope to expand this
even further?

I am pretty proud
we have grown to this point, it has been years of hard work and hustling, but
we still have a long way to go. I think our growth has been very organic and
consistent. Our friends and families have been instrumental in encouraging our
vision, and I personally wouldn’t be able to accomplish what I have without my exceptionally
supportive fiancé.

As we found it
difficult to enter the Canadian market right off the bat, we started going to
international tradeshows to gain exposure from buyers from around the world. We
have been exhibiting at (Capsule) for two years and they have also been an incredibly
supportive for us as a new brand. We also were really fortunate to work on some
amazing collaborations that have opened us up to some new markets and new
accounts.

Finally what does the future hold for
Muttonhead, where do you see the brand going in the years to come?

I think the future
will hold some pretty amazing things for everyone involved in our brand! In a
couple of years from now I would love to experiment in some different
categories and continue to collaborate with like-minded brands and people.

__________________________

Thanks for taking the time out to talk to us Paige, and we wish you the best of luck for the future.ACM

Saturday, 15 September 2012

I’d shown the guys at ACM the pictures shown in this post, taken by my dad
on various hiking trips in the Lakes, and Scotland during the 1970’s and ’80‘s.
They thought it’d be a good idea to share them with people on here who might
appreciate what they stand for.

I’m Northern. Let’s get that
out of the way first. I may have been
exiled for years, but I still pronounce my vowels flatly, have supported a
North-West team through the many bad (and rare good) times and most importantly
love jackets. I’m not saying an obsession with outerwear is purely Northern
centric - but I do think due to historical and geographic factors it has become
ingrained. Now firmly entrenched in the South West I still live by my own
mantra, when going out - all you need is a great jacket and some decent
footwear.It was this love of outerwear that recently got me thinking about my old man and his ‘exploits’ with his pals up and down the hillsides, ridges and valleys of Northern Britain. Dad was a ‘walker’, ‘hiker’, ‘rambler’, call it whatever term you like, and looking back on it now - though clearly never mentioned at the time - was as cool as f**k!

You’ll be aware of the recent trend (hate that word) celebrating
‘Acid Rambling’ and ‘Hikerdelia’ in turn influencing stores and brands, and
seen in art instillations and magazines; stalwarts Oi Polloiand Proper Magazine to
name but two. The pictures on this page aren't of that scene - they are linked - but very different. No mind altering substances or psychedelic
U.S. outerwear were worn by these Northern chaps. Their strongest vice was probably 8 pints of
‘mix’ in the pub snug after that day’s exertions.

These men have far more in common with the Don Whillans school of
hiking and climbing than the cool kats wearing Patagonia in the U.S. sunshine of the
Rockies. In fact the closest any of them got to the Rocky Mountains was a love
of the music of John Denver. Rather than
the heat or snow of American mountain ranges they ploughed on through the pissy
rain, gales and low level fog of the Coniston or Cairngorm ranges before
reaching their ‘peak’.

So, what about their clobber? I’d love to tell you these photos showed them all wearing Belstaff
Dalesman smocks or alike but unfortunately they don’t. What they do show is utility clothing being
worn for its primary purpose. Something
very different to how and why we choose the outerwear we do now. Yes we like the fact our mountain parkas are
water and wind proof and breathable too, but most of the time that’s only so we
can run to the pub in the rain and not have to remove our jackets once we reach
the bar.

It was mostly British brands - Berghaus,
Karrimor, Rohan and the now defunct North Cape - being the jackets and trousers
of choice - no internet purchases, just a trip to mountaineering stores, many
of which are still there today.

This was also the advent of Gore-Tex becoming a use-able and
affordable fabric, which these blokes became rightly excited by; an excitement
which still is obvious to those who love that G-T tag on their purchases,
from coats to trainers. These items were
layered with generic cord pants, check shirts, woollen socks and lambswool scarf's. And tweed caps or hand knitted
balaclavas - let’s not forget the head-wear.

‘Off duty’ the look didn’t really change. The hiking boots were replaced by Clarks Polyveldts - Ramblers or Oberons; and I still remember being obsessed with some
new shoes my dad bought from a new shop in Ambleside. The shop’s still there, and I now realise it
was a pair of Mephisto Rainbow.

As a kid, I think one of the attractions of this ‘look’, as well as
its ruggedness, must have been the colours. Once you see a Vango Force Ten
pitched in all its orange glory, or a royal blue and yellow Berghaus jacket,
it’s difficult to not let that affect your clothing choices later in life (he
writes, sitting in his Clarks Ramblers and cords having just removed his Norse
Projects x Oi Polloi burnt orange Kaare jacket).

Any road, I’m sure there will be visitors to this blog to whom these
photos will stir in the same way that they do me. It doesn't have to be your dad or uncle in the shots for them to mean
something to you, and to see that age old adage that ‘fashion’ (I hate that
word) is well and truly cyclical.

Tuesday, 11 September 2012

Peter O' Toole is a freelance illustrator/graphic designer from Huddersfield, England. He is also the creator of Dirtcheap Magazine and Fresh Kids art night. I managed to get Mr O' Toole away from his computer tonight to have a quick chat about himself, his business and clothes.

An Interview With Peter O' Toole

Could you tell us a bit about your background in art and illustration before Peter O’ Toole Illustrations?

Of course, basically I have been drawing all my life and always enjoyed it. I started taking it seriously in year 10 of high school when we had to choose two subjects to specialise in. I chose graphic design and art. This is when I realised I could probably make a career from it and this is where my journey began. After school it was pretty much run of the mill, I went to art college for 2 years (Huddersfield Tech/Highfields) where we did everything from photography to 3d design. I specialised in Illustration and went on to Bradford Uni for 3 years to get my degree in Graphic Media Communication.Throughout all these years I was doing some kind of freelance on the side. Started by painting portraits then onto gig posters/ flyers ect. When I left Uni I worked as a gardener for a year and did freelance on the side. Then in 2010 I made the leap to full time illustrator! so basically from high school to starting my own business took a decade!

When was Peter O’ Toole Illustrations born? And what was the reason for going it alone?

Born officially in 2010. There where a few reasons for going it alone. Firstly I was in danger of getting into a comfort zone at the place I was working, I had taken on a more admin style role (writing risk assesments and stuff) and it was as easy or as hard as you made it. Secondly I worked with a guy who was old, had done nothing with his life and carried a chip on his shoulder, the world owed him something and he must have got three or four people the sack whilst I was there (just over a year). So he now was focusing on me and trying to make my life a ballache. So at the time I hated the guy, but if it wasn't for him I would not have just turned around one day and said, forget this. I left and after a few months perusing another job (photo retouching) i set up on my own. If he hadn't of been there I guess i would still be working there now doing the same thing day in day out!

Can you tell us a bit about Peter O’ Toole Illustrations?

Its basically just me, Peter O'Toole. Peter O'Toole illustrations is my 'official' registered business name. I freelance illustrate/design out of my studio in Huddersfield.

You have a Studio/Office, could you tell us a bit about that?

Yeh its probably the kind of place I would have always wanted to end up in as an aspiring illustrator, the only thing is I stumbled upon it before I actually went freelance, so not only am I living the dream I am also working in my dream space. I'm very lucky. I share the space with a few other illsutrators and designers and it is on the top floor of an old mill. We have awnings for ceilings and its HUGE. It's forever evolving, we just built a cinema/screening room in here about a month ago!

Now that art/illustration has become a job for you, do you switch off from it outside the Office/Studio? Or do you still find yourself picking up a pencil, or running a editing software on your PC at home?

I used to work from home for about a decade, and there was no cut off point, I would work till 3 every morning and maybe not get up till 12, work in my dressing gown. Eventually the walls started caving in on me so I rented the studio I'm in now. As soon as I rented I moved everything from my house to my studio and never work at home (maybe once in the last three years). I forced myself into this position. I have a wife and need to spend time with her so it works out great for all parties. Worse comes to worse I sleep at work!

What/who inspires or has inspired you?

In the late 90s I got well into graffiti, yorkshire writers like spymad and rakar were the guys I looked up to. Then it evolved to artists like Jason Sho Green and Michael Gillette. But nowadays I rarely look at other illustrators/artists. I think its a bad habit as subconsciously your work starts looking like theirs. Although I have often done things I thought where original and stumbled upon very similar stuff!

Do you have a set of regular clients or are you always getting new ones contacting you?

I have my regulars and I have clients who come and go. My best business is repeat business though. I really liek building relationships with clients as it can help both parties evolve!

We are aware that you have beenworking closely with the lads at CasualCo. How and when did that come about? And are you hoping to continue working with them in the future?

The guys contacted me to do a tee with them about a year and a half ago, I really enjoyed it and we seemed on the same page so I offered to do regular work for them if they were down! It's blossomed since then really, we have a lot of cool things in the pipeline! def things that I think will change the game a bit and set a standard. We come from the same sort of backgrounds so it just seems natural working with those guys.

Is there any other clothing labels you have done work for?

Yeh loads! but I do a fair bit for Addict Clothing Co. The artists these guys had on their roster when I was at college was phenomonal (mr jago, swifty, she1, C-LAW, steff, ben the illustrator) I had both their books and really looked up to the brand. Then I got the call from Chris Law in late 2010 to feature in the artist series and have been working with them ever since, its really surreal and I enjoy every minute of it.

Your probably aware that here at ACM we are passionate and obsessed with clothing and style. Is clothing something you have an interest in?

Yeh of course! although my look now is more of a hybrid of everything I have been into since I was about 15 years old! But the main one for me is Adidas trainers, I have been collecting since 2003, and although most have been passed on I still have pairs I will never let go of! I also love stone island jackets, although my collection is considerably smaller than my adidas one!

What is your favourite bit of clothing? What is your favourite label?

I don't have a favorite label as such, if I think somethings nice I'll get it, I have a Strellson Utility Parker from years ago, it came with a lock and radio. I ctually had to break the lock when I was showing it off to a mate on a train and lovked myself to the table, I forgot the code and it was either leave the jacket or break the lock. I regret this to this day! But I also have some very rare one off adidas dublins I designed which you can read about on my website.

Finally, what does the future hold for you and Peter O’ Toole Illustrations?

Onwards and upwards! I've come a long way but I have a long way to go, so hopefully world domination isn't too far away! and keep checking out the stuff we do with Casual Co!

____________________________

Thanks for taking the time out to talk to us Pete and good luck for the future.ACM

With an impressive history calving the styles of the 70s and 80s, Gabicciplayed a huge part in music and youth culture, worn by the likes of The Specials
and Bob Marley. Even today its metal ‘G’ logo remains a very iconic symbol
within the Northern soul, Ska, and Reggae circles. The definitive Gabicci look
incorporates Italian inspired styling and quality, to create the ultimate
‘Dapper’ look with an air of authority and class. The look follows in the
footsteps set out by the ‘Rude boys’ and the ‘Rastas’ , first popular in Jamaica
and then immerging on the London music scene in the mid
70’s.
With a new generation searching for true heritage and quality, Gabicci is
seeing a fresh surge in popularity and growth with artists like The View wearing the brand on stage, as well as a very passionate online
community.

AW'12 stays true
to its original colour palette with mustard, browns, navy and greens being the
back bone of the classic look. Knitwear and tweed are
also key this season paired with an impressive selection of trousers and
shirting. The
signature polo shirts are enhanced with fine gold detailing including a
statement chained collar pin, zips and the iconic ‘G’ logo. Attention to detail is as strong as
ever with their very unique accentuated collards, metal branding and heavy suede
trim.www.gabicci.com

Sunday, 2 September 2012

After finding out that my local, traditional sweet shop, Sweet Home Alabama, had started selling American chocolate, candy and soda, I was in my element. So much so I spent just shy of ten great British pounds yesterday. Mind you it was worth it!www.sweet-homealabama.co.uk