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Delhi travel guide

Travellers in Delhi will probably have to navigate their share
of sweaty crowds, insistent beggars and heavy traffic, as well as
come face to face with some unpleasant smells, noises and sights,
but the city is also home to astounding beauty, friendliness and
wealth, with many treasures to be found amid the clamour of
everyday life.

Delhi is a city of contrasts, where an elephant can overtake an
overheated Italian sports car on the streets, where colonial
mansions stand next to squatter slums, and where cows are revered,
but musicians are labelled 'untouchable'. The city's pace is
chaotic, yet strangely relaxed, making it ideal for exploring.
Visitors are almost certain to have some strange and exotic
experiences.

With a long and troubled history, Delhi is full of fascinating
temples, museums, mosques and forts, each with a distinctive
architectural style. In Old Delhi, visitors will find a charming
selection of colourful bazaars and narrow winding alleys. In
comparison, New Delhi - the city created to reflect the might of
the British Empire - consists of tree-lined avenues, spacious parks
and sombre-looking government buildings.

While Delhi itself could fill many holidays, the city is also
ideal as a base for visiting the Taj Mahal in Agra, and it provides
the best links for travelling to the hill stations in northern
India.

Lal Quila, is Delhi's signature attraction, rising high
above the clamour of Old Delhi as a reminder of the power and
prosperity of the Mogul Empire. The massive sandstone walls were
built in the 17th century to keep out marauding invaders, and still
dominate the city's skyline today. Inside is an array of exquisite
buildings, which once provided the living quarters for Shah Jehan,
his courtiers, family and staff of three thousand. Visitors can
marvel at the intricate decoration and only imagine the scenes here
at the empire's height, when the walls were studded with precious
stones and a 'stream of paradise' drove an ingenious air
conditioning system. The fort was the scene of the Indian Uprising
of 1857 and the mighty Lahore Gate, on the west side of the fort,
remains a potent symbol of India's fight for independence. There
are frequent sound and light shows in the evenings at the fort but
they are conducted in Hindi; some audio guides are sometimes
available to translate into French and English. The fort is vast
and there is a lot to explore so it is best to allow a few hours
for this famous attraction; seeing everything means covering quite
a lot of ground so come prepared to do some walking.

Address: On Netaji Subhash Marg, near Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi.
Entrance from Lahore Gate or Chatta Chowk

Jama Masjid

lunghito cover their legs; women wearing T-shirts should
bring a scarf to cover their shoulders; you will be required to
leave your shoes at the entrance. Tourists frequently complain that
the people managing the mosque are rude and try to get as much
money as possible out of visitors by charging for things like shoe
storage and modesty dresses they insist women wear even if they are
appropriately clad. The best way to deal with these inconveniences
is to have a local guide with you to steer you through the
process.

The Qutub Minar is a mammoth tower that was built between 1193
and 1369 to symbolise Islamic rule over Delhi, and to commemorate
the victory by Qutab-ud-din over the city's last Hindu king.
Standing 238 feet (72m) tall, the tower is decorated with
calligraphy representing verses from the Quran, and tapers from 50
feet (15m) at the base to just eight feet (2.5m) at the top. There
are five distinct storeys, each encircled with a balcony: the first
three are built of red sandstone, and the upper two are faced with
white marble.

At the foot of the minhar stands Quwwat-ul-Islam, India's oldest
mosque, largely built from the remains of 27 Hindu and Jain temples
destroyed by the Muslim victors. The cloisters that flank the
nearby courtyard are supported by pillars that were unmistakably
pilfered from Hindu temples, but fascinatingly, the faces that
would have adorned these pillars have been removed to conform to
Islamic law, which strictly forbids iconic worship.

Somewhat incongruously, in the corner of the mosque, stands the
Iron Pillar, bearing 4th-century Sanskrit inscriptions of the Gupta
period dedicating the structure to the memory of King Chandragupta
II (373-413). It is said that anyone who can encircle the pillar
with their hands whilst standing with their back to it will have
their wishes fulfilled.

Humayun's Tomb is one of the best-preserved and most beautiful
examples of Mogul architecture in Delhi, and is often seen as a
forerunner of the Taj Mahal in Agra. Building started on the tomb
in 1564 after the death of Humayun, the second Moghul emperor, and
its construction was overseen by Haji Begum, his senior widow and
the mother of Akbar. The tomb is an octagonal structure capped by a
double dome that soars 125ft (38m) into the sky, and is set in a
formal Persian garden. In the grounds are some other worthwhile
monuments, including the Tomb of Isa Khan. Some careful restoration
work has been done on some of the buildings and art but nothing
important has been altered and the site has not lost its sense of
authentic old age. Visiting this attraction is great for the
uninitiated because it is the perfect introduction to the
architecture, symbolism and importance of memorial tombs in India.
For photography lovers the tomb, with its red colouring and
geometric designs, is a wonderful subject. Tourist infrastructure
is somewhat lacking, with only a few stalls, a tiny exhibit and no
real public toilets - but, on the plus side, it is also less
crowded and commercial than many other sites in the city and
visitors can wander freely.

After his visit in 1911, the Emperor of India, King George V,
decreed that the capital should be moved from Calcutta to Delhi.
Edwin Lutyens was commissioned to plan the new government centre,
which he focused around Rajpath - the grand, tree-lined boulevard
that runs between the Secretariat Buildings and India Arch, the war
memorial built in 1921. Rashtrapati Bhavan was built by Lutyens and
Sir Herbert Baker between 1921 and 1929, on the gentle slope of
Raisina Hill, flanked by the Secretariat Buildings. This immense
palace, larger than Versailles, was created for the Viceroy and is
now the residence of the President of India. With the exception of
the central copper dome there are few concessions to Indian
architectural style: despite its Classical columns, the building is
unmistakably British and remains a potent symbol of imperial
power.

Every Saturday morning between 9:35am and 10:15am guards parade
before the iron gates, in Delhi's answer to London's Changing of
the Guard. The gardens are open to the public every year in
February and March but unfortunately no entry to the palace is
permitted at any time of year; however, the exterior is very
impressive and it is well worth at least a drive by.

No trip to Delhi would be complete without a visit to one of the
bazaars that surround Chandni Chowk (Moonlight Square) in Old
Delhi, where shops and stalls display a wonderful array of goods,
and offer a pungent and colourful insight into everyday Delhi life.
Chandni Chowk has a large number of galis (lanes) and each one is
different, with its own atmosphere and selection of goods to
buy.

Naya Bazaar, on Khari Baoli, is the spice market, displaying a
wonderful range of seasonings in neat, colourful piles. The nearby
Gadodia Market is the wholesale spice market. Hundreds of spices
and condiments can be found there, including aniseed, ginger,
pomegranate, saffron, lotus seeds, pickles and chutneys, to name
just a few.

Chor Bazaar sits behind the ramparts of the Red Fort and comes
to life on Sundays to trade a collection of 'second-hand' goods.
Chawri Bazaar was once notorious for the ladies who beckoned men
from the arched windows and balconies above the street, but today
these houses have made way for shops specialising in brass and
copper Buddhas, Vishnus and Krishnas. Some of the busiest galis
(east of Kalan Mahal) house the poultry and fish markets, but most
tourists wisely avoid these areas.

There's no question about it: Delhi is hot, crowded and intense
- not the best place for kids on holiday. But there are a number of
interesting and exciting attractions for children in Delhi to
enjoy. The Shankar's International Dolls Museum is located in Nehru
House, on Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, and has one of the largest
collections of costume dolls in the world - a wonderful tourist
attraction for young girls. On the other hand, Delhi's National
Rail Transport Museum, in Chanakyapuri, is a great attraction for
young boys. There are a number of bowling alleys in Delhi to take
the kids to, including the Kool Kidz Little Tikes Play Zone in
Gurgaon, Leisure Bowl in Vasant Kunj, and Little Paradise in
Faridabad. Other fun activities include camel and balloon safaris
in the nearby Thar Desert. Whatever you end up doing with the kids,
one thing is for sure - Delhi is a city that children seldom
forget, providing an exciting and colourful experience that will
live on in their memories forever.

The impressive Republic Day Parade is held every year in Delhi
on the anniversary of the formation of the Indian Republic, and
serves to showcase the country's military might. Marching columns
represent the armed forces, accompanied by armoured vehicles,
military bands, decorated floats and folk dancers. Although it is
primarily a military parade, the many floats showcase different
cultures and territories within the hugely culturally diverse
country. Highlights include a display presented by the Indian Air
Force and the procession of the camel mounted Border Security Force
contingent, which is the only camel mounted military force in the
world. Before the parade the prime minister lays a floral wreath at
the Amar Jawan Jyoti, a memorial to unknown soldiers at the India
Gate, which is followed by two minutes of silence in tribute to the
many who died and suffered to win India's independence. Medals and
special awards are given out by the president on this day as well.
The parade is the main event but the celebrations are actually
marked over multiple days, beginning with the impressive pomp and
ceremony of the military parade and ending on the evening of the
29th January with the Beating Retreat Ceremony that takes place in
Raisina Hills and an adjacent square, Vijay Chowk, next to the
President's Palace.

Venue: The parade starts at the Rashtrapati Bhavan, winds through
the city, and ends at the Red Fort in Old Delhi;
Date:26 January 2018;

Festival of Holi

Delhi puts on a colourful face in March for the light-hearted
Festival of Holi, celebrating the triumph of good over evil. Holi
is the first major Hindu festival of the year and is celebrated
joyously. The exuberant spring festival starts on the night of full
moon, when bonfires are lit on street corners to clear the air of
evil spirits. The next morning sees the streets full of people of
all ages chasing each other and throwing pots of brightly-coloured
powder pigment over each other in uninhibited mischief. The fun
ends at noon, when everyone retires to wash off the paint and
finish the day relaxing. Although the powder play is visually
stunning and lots of fun, it can be a challenge to get all the
pigment off your skin, hair and clothes afterwards - people are
encouraged to use the traditional natural pigments that are better
for the environment and the body, and these do come off far more
easily. Although Holi is celebrated all over India, it reaches a
unique fever-pitch in Delhi and travellers are strongly advised to
coincide their time in Delhi with this unforgettable spectacle.
Foreigners are enthusiastically included in the festival, which is
all about friendliness and happiness. Such is the event's
popularity that versions of Holi are now celebrated all over the
world.

India's most popular traditional festival, with its origins
deeply rooted in Hindu mythology, turns the streets of Delhi (and
all major cities in India) into a carnival each year. And while
Diwali (the 'Festival of Lights') is extremely important for
Hindus, it is also celebrated by Jains and Sikhs, meaning that the
general air of festivity is enjoyed by everyone. Traditionally, all
houses are decorated with earthenware lamps and candles for the
occasion, and the sound of firecrackers can reach deafening
proportions - in fact, so many fireworks are usually set off during
Diwali that they have been blamed for causing a spike in air
pollution levels! Neighbourhoods generally bristle with fun rides,
food stalls and curio-sellers during the festival and there is
plenty to see and do. Keen shoppers should note that it is
customary for people to buy new clothes and household utensils, and
to exchange gifts (usually sweets or perfume) during Diwali. Diwali
is traditionally celebrated over five days, but festivities always
reach fever-pitch on a single day and usually only one day is
marked for Diwali on a calendar. Rituals and celebrations do vary
slightly from region to region in India but the festival is
celebrated all over the country.

For centuries Delhi has been a thoroughfare for traders, and the
city's status as an intersection between different cultures has
strongly influenced the cuisine. North Indian cuisine is the most
popular and has a strong Persian/Turkish influence, especially in
Mughlai and Punjabi dishes. Traditional North Indian delicacies
include various korma dishes, tandoori chicken, seekh kebabs,
kofta(meatballs) and biryani. However, there are also a
number of good international restaurants based in New Delhi. Some
of the most common international cuisines on offer in Delhi are
Chinese, Thai, Italian and American.

For those travelling to Delhi on a budget, or anyone who needs a
comfortingly familiar meal on their exotic travels, international
chain restaurants such as McDonalds, Dominos, Pizza Hut and Pizza
Express can be found all over Delhi. Those on a budget who want to
sample authentic local food can brave the road side dhabas, which
sell things like kababs, rotis and biryani to be eaten on the hoof;
although some of the street vendors' food should be avoided for
health reasons, there are also some wonderful dhabas and some of
the best can be found around Jama Masjid and Nizamuddin. Trawling
the food markets is also a good way to sample local delicacies and
work out what you like. Vegetarian food is available in
abundance.

Chor Bizarre

taramis(thali) platter. Open daily for lunch and dinner;
reservations recommended.

The trendy S Bar, recently renamed from its previous name;
Shalom, serves delicious Lebanese and Mediterranean cuisine in an
upmarket, romantic setting. The restaurant's tapas selection
includes lemon, paprika and garlic fish skewers or a Spanish
asparagus and orange salad, while the main menu features dishes
such as Dubai duck (served in a lemon and honey sauce, with apricot
and cinnamon flavours). Be sure to leave room for the decadent
molten chocolate cake dessert! Open daily for lunch and dinner;
reservations recommended.

Address: N-18, N Block Market, Greater Kailash;

Bukhara

For travellers who really want to splash out, Bukhara is the
only place to go. With a host of awards to its name, Bukhara has
been voted 'Best Indian Restaurant in the World' by the UK's
Restaurant Magazine. With dishes like dhal bukhara (tomato, ginger
and garlic simmered black lentils) and mouthwateringly delicious
tandoori prawns, it is easy to see why it comes so highly
recommended. The restaurant designed a selection of platters named
the Hillary Platter, the Presidential Platter and the Chelsea
Platter following a visit by the Clinton family in 2009. Open daily
for lunch and dinner, reservations are a must.

Over the past few years Delhi's nightlife scene has undergone a
major transformation, and there are now hundreds of trendy bars,
nightclubs and lounges ready to roll out a good time to revellers
in the nation's capital. Delhi has typically been known as a city
that goes to sleep early because stand-alone bars, clubs and
restaurants in the city proper must legally close by midnight;
however, these days it is easy to sniff out a good time in Delhi
and many places manage to stay open late. Hotel bars and clubs, for
instance, are not subject to this rule and tend to close much later
than midnight. Late-night revellers can also move the party to the
suburbs of Noida and Gurgaon, which are technically in different
states and not subject to the midnight law. Having said that, many
of the best places are located centrally, in the areas surrounding
Nehru Park (close to Niti Marg).

Note that some clubs in Delhi institute a couples-only entrance
policy, and that some places might be a little unsafe for foreign
tourists. Visitors should trust their intuition. It is a good idea
to ask for recommendations from hotel staff or do some research
into fun night spots before travelling. Another great way to
discover what's going on in Delhi and where the trendiest joints
are is to get your hands on a copy of Time Out New Delhi, which is
widely available.

Delhi is a fantastic shopping destination, with shopping
centres, malls and markets offering a variety of well-priced
holiday buys. Sought-after Delhi souvenirs include local hand-woven
oriental carpets and rugs, beautiful silk fabrics, and jewellery
with precious gems and stones.

Authentic Indian handicrafts can be found in shops along Baba
Kharak Singh Marg, available at affordable (government-controlled)
prices. Goods such as shawls, pottery, and paintings are available
from the Crafts Museum on Mathura Road, while there are handicrafts
and handloom items to be found at Dilli Haat, also a food bazaar.
There are also a few antique shops to explore in Sunder Nagar, and
a visit to the bustling Chandni Chowk shopping area is a must.

Dariba Kalan has some excellent jewellery stores, but be wary of
gem scams: if an offer seems too good to be true, it probably is.
Fashion accessories and upmarket goods can be found at the
Connaught Place, Sarojini Nagar and Janpath shopping centres, among
others. Ansal Plaza shopping complex is a very modern and trendy
shopping destination, as is Hauz Khas, which is an unlikely mix of
medieval ruins and posh shopping. Delhi's range of shopping centres
and bazaars are sure to send you home with mountains of excess
baggage. Bargain hard in the markets and remember to shop around
before you commit to a sale.

Location: The airport is located just over 9 miles (16km) south of
New Delhi city centre.Time: GMT +5.5Contacts: +91 (0)11 329 6535, +91 (0)11 565 2011, IGIA Customer Care Line:
+91 (0)12 4337 6000.Transfer between terminals: Terminal transfer shuttles connect Terminal 3 (international)
and Terminal 1 (domestic). The shuttles are free and run every 20
minutes. Some domestic airlines operate from Terminal 3
(international) so it's best to check with your airline before
mistakenly transferring terminals.

Getting to the city: Train: The airport express Delhi Metro line connects the airport
to central New Delhi. It operates from Terminal 3 between 5am and
11pm. Trains run at 20-minute intervals.

Bus: Delhi Transport Corporation (DTC) buses run every 30
minutes between the airport and central Delhi's Interstate Bus
Terminal and Connaught Place. The buses can be found at the
'staging area' near Terminal 3 and opposite the Centaur Hotel. The
free DIAL shuttle runs between the staging area and the terminal
every 15 minutes, 24 hours a day. Bus fares from the airport cost
between INR 25 and INR 100, depending on your destination.
Concessions are available for parents buying tickets for their
children.Car rental: Carzonrent is located just after the customs area in the
arrivals section of Terminal 3.

Airport Taxis: Metered taxis are available at the airport but it is best to use
pre-paid taxis. The airport has a relationship with three Cab
operators, Meru Cabs, Mega Cabs and Easy Cabs. Approved fares for
various locations are displayed at the taxi counters located inside
the Arrivals halls. Pick-up points are just outside the terminals.
Travel time to the city is about 30 minutes. Facilities: Airport facilities include banks, ATMs and currency exchange;
public telephones and a post office; baggage wrapping and storage;
conference facilities and VIP lounges; complementary strollers, a
kids play area and baby changing rooms; foot massages, a smoking
area, shower facilities, prayer room, drinking water fountains,
medical facilities and a pharmacy. There are also sleeping pods
available at an hourly fee, and plenty of shopping and dining
options. Parking: Parking garages are just 300 feet (100m) from Terminal 1, and
there is a multi-storey garage attached to the International
Terminal. Website:www.newdelhiairport.in

Fleets of metered taxis, auto-rickshaws and cycle-rickshaws clog
the streets of Delhi providing transport for locals and visitors.
Rates fluctuate, but drivers should have rate charts available and
tourists should ensure the meter is reset, or a price negotiated
before departure. A ring railway starts and ends at the Hazrat
Nizamuddin Railway Station with trains running in both clockwise
and anti-clockwise directions around the city. The Delhi Transport
Corporation runs a large fleet of buses covering the entire city,
but these are always overcrowded. There are night service buses on
selected routes and from the three main railway stations between
11pm and 5am. The first line of an ambitious Mass Rapid Transit
System (MRTS) covers 14 miles (22km) and 18 stations between
Shahdara, Tri Nagar and Rithala. A further two lines are under
construction and the entire project is scheduled for completion by
2021. It is not advised to hire a car in Delhi as the driving is
frenetic and the traffic overwhelming. There are parts of the city
where walking is the best way to take in the sights and sounds, but
in general you will need transport to get around.

The climate of Delhi is semi-arid, and there is a vast
difference between summer and winter temperatures. During the long
summers the city swelters at highs of 104ºF (40ºC) and lows of 79ºF
(26ºC), often exacerbated by a dusty, dry wind. The hottest months
of the year are May and June. Winter weather in Delhi arrives in
November, with temperatures between 43ºF (6ºC) and 68ºF (20ºC).
Delhi's winters are generally mild but the city's proximity to the
Himalayas can result in cold spells. Winter also brings heavy fog,
which can decrease visibility and disrupt air, road and rail
travel; January is the worst month for fog. The rainy season in
Delhi is heralded in June and lasts until the end of September,
during which monsoons deliver most of the city's annual average
rainfall. The city does not experience monsoons to the same extent
as many other Indian cities.

The best time to visit Delhi is in October and November, or in
February and March, when the nights are cool and the days filled
with mellow sunshine. December and January can be a little gloomy
in Delhi while mid-summer (May, June and July) is uncomfortably
hot.