Once I had it back together, I let it spin with no water for three minutes per the directions on the paper that came with the stem / boot seal repair kit and tub bearing. Then I put the washer back where it usually goes, hooked up the water and did a modest load of laundry.

I listened to it during the first wash cycle and first spin cycle. It ran quiet and didn't leak any water. I left the house to return the spanner wrench to the appliance parts store. When I came back, the clothes had finished the rinse cycle and spin dry, but the basement had a distinctive smell again. Kind of like rubber, but not necessarily rubber. My wife said she never heard any noise.

I never did replace the belts, but they looked fine and weren't glazed....

Question:

Should I be able to turn the inner drum by hand when the machine is off? It doesn't turn by hand at this point. I can turn the agitator though.

Not so good. When I ran the unit in spin cycle for three minutes with no water to lubricate the bearing as called for in the instruction sheet that came with the parts (tub bearing, stem kit and boot), the transmission and cover seemed to have spun. Now, it doesn't AND it looks like the inner tub is no longer spinning either. The motor runs, the pulley on the motor gets too hot to touch.

Unplugged the unit to see if I could turn the inner drum by hand. I can't turn the inner tub by hand either.

You cannot turn this tub by hand! The brake is on until the belt releases it. Here's what you should try...lean the unit back against the wall so you can lay in front . Remove the pump and drive belts. Turn the large center pulley by hand in a counter-clockwise direction and see if the tranny turns as it spins. It's best to have the front panel off so you can watch as you turn. Report back...

Makes sense. I didn't see your post till this morning, but yesterday I watched the machine run with the front panel off. The tranny case did not spin during the spin cycle, but my impression was that it should. I tapped the housing at the bottom center of the bottom panel - which I believe to be the backside of the brake assembly - with a hammer. The transmission case began to turn and tub also spun. I think the brake is hanging up. I'll try lubing it today.

I played around with it a little more today. If I turn the brake puller directly by hand it turns a little ways, then the tranny case (and drum) spin. Not so if I just pull on the belt the same way. My suspicion is that the belts are too loose. I see there is an adjustment procedure for the pump, but none for the brake pulley. The belts are ten years old, maybe they've stretched so much that they slip more than they should. (I did see in the manual where it mentions that some of the slip is engineered in to reduce shock to the drive system.)

I'll probably order those belts and give it another go. Other than the reluctance for the tranny case to spin in the spin cycle, the machine is working great!

Sounds like you are on the right track with the belts, use part number 12112425 to order the set.

Don't be tempted to adjust the pump, even though it appears that belt is loose. It is supposed to be that way for a reason, and if you tightened the pump mounting over some, it will affect the tension on the drive belt adversely. Tension on the drive belt is caused by the 2 carriage springs under the motor plate. Rarely do these fail, but you can put some lithium grease inside the area between the 2 motor mounting plates to reduce friction and allow the carriage rollers to glide more smoothly.

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