My old man has a JD L130 with a 23 horse Kohler Command in it. He called me the other day and said it wouldn't start. I went and put my spark tester in one wire- good spark. It cranks real good, just no fire. I took the air filter out to look in the carb (which you can't see into anyways) and tried it and it popped off like normal. Put the air filter back on and it ran fine. He replaced the air filter yesterday and today it wouldn't start. He opened the shed door and it sat in the sun for a few hours- fired right up. Is there something to this problem or is it just due to cold? It has been 0 degrees at best lately.

Sounds like the electronicly controled needle in the carb is freezing shut, next time it does that, don't crank the engine, just turn on the ignition key and listen to the carb, you should hear the needle open with a faint click.

The needle could just be sticking and the cold is exemplifying the problem.

The fuel pump that is built into the carb could be acting up with the cold also.

He's referring to the fuel shutoff solenoid. Those suckers don't like cold, especially with the ethanol junk that likes to build up around them. They don't produce enough power to retract the needle back in the midst of that gunk build up behind it when the gunk is too stiff from the cold.

Very well could be... makes sense that I took the air filter out and was looking in there with his newest worklight, a 1970's model incandescent. That probably warmed it up a touch and it took off. Then today it didn't start until after it warmed in the sun?

I'd buy that. Maybe he should run a little gas line anti freeze in it.

The fuel shut off is held in by a nut, unplug the two wire going to it, as for the nut, think it is 1/2, you have to use a wrench, if i remember right, you are to use a OEM Kohler wrench, regular wench will not fit between the plug-in and the bowl, i said balls to that !, ground down the open end wrench until it fit. Remove the nut/solenoid, you will see the needle, clean it and the bowl in Karosene or break cleaner and reassemble. If you want to run seafoam after you can do that to help clean the inside of the carb and fuel pump.

If it's gummed enough to cause an issue, then removing and cleaning it is the best option.

One thing worth your time and a little more $$ is getting non-ethanol gas in it during the winter months. Look on puregas.org to find the closest one. I have never had fuel issues in the summer, only the winter. Once I switched to non-ethanol, no more issues.

I wonder if it has summer gas in it? In winter time gasoline is formulated different so engines will start when its cold outside. If his gas supply is from before October 1st. that could be the problem. ???

If it's not working Kohler sells them for $114.65 + shipping or you Might be able to find a new replacement Solenoid on Ebay for around $80.

I would just remove the plunger if you clean it up and it's still only working intermediately.

The new Ethanol Fuels absorb 3/4 of an ounce of water per gallon and in the cold winter months the water will separate and collect in the bottom of your float bowl and freeze up.Especially with these record low temps everybody is getting this year.

Here is some Very Very good good information on E10,E15,E20 and E85 Safeguards.

I have exact set-up. No problems yet with mine. One thing that seems odd on mine is that at start-up it smokes, then clears up after running some. I'm thinking it is the oil collecting in those layed down cylinders (vert. shaft) after running and parking, and it burns off at start-up. What you think?? I have been running 91 octane premium in mine last year. To stay away from Alch. Never knew this engine was so complicated, hope I don't have to work on it in future. Have had number of years and still goes good. I used to plow snow too, but didn't this year with others I'm using. Never had bad start, cept one year of battery giving out. I paid more money to have the K engine over the Briggs and really don't think much better quality. They even look like same designer made them. With manufacturers using same components from others, maybe they aren't that much diff anymore. No more Cast Iron stuff, probly won't live as long as the old units have.

I have exact set-up. No problems yet with mine. One thing that seems odd on mine is that at start-up it smokes, then clears up after running some. I'm thinking it is the oil collecting in those layed down cylinders (vert. shaft) after running and parking, and it burns off at start-up. What you think?? I have been running 91 octane premium in mine last year. To stay away from Alch. Never knew this engine was so complicated, hope I don't have to work on it in future. Have had number of years and still goes good. I used to plow snow too, but didn't this year with others I'm using. Never had bad start, cept one year of battery giving out. I paid more money to have the K engine over the Briggs and really don't think much better quality. They even look like same designer made them. With manufacturers using same components from others, maybe they aren't that much diff anymore. No more Cast Iron stuff, probly won't live as long as the old units have.

Sounds like you might have either a head gasket going out or a Valve stem seal that's cracked or worn out.Bad thing about the kohler twins is if carbon builds up on the valves the piston will hit the valve and more than likely snap the head of the valve off or bend the valve and push rod.

If it was the rings it would smoke constantly.

KH-25-032-14-S is the part number for the valve stem seals.They're around $6-$8 for a set of 2.

KH-24-841-02-S is the part number for the head gasket.They're around $25-30 Each.

I'm betting on it being the valve stem seals.If the head gasket were leaking or partly blown it will smoke like a fog machine when you mow down a slight incline.