Writer John T. Edge shares that he once was a barbecue purist who considered modernist takes on the genre “blasphemy”:

But I was wrong. Small-minded even. I embraced that realization while seated at the bar at Smoke, a new restaurant in the Oak Cliff neighborhood of Dallas, a city where belief in barbecue is a sort of civic religion. Smoke is a project of Tim Byres, a pedigreed chef with a résumé that includes a stint at the swanky Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek.

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