We aren't setting any distance records in the very heavy surf, but we're having a lot of fun bouncing around in the big waves. Sort of like a roller coaster, a little scary but lots of fun. The hairiest part is getting over the sandbar where the waves break, but beyond the break it's not too bad.

It's quite an experience to swim against the current, it seems like you're flailing away as hard as you can, but barely making progress. Sometimes the waves lift you up and instead of pulling water you're windmilling the air. On the way back you move so fast you need to be careful to not overshoot your mark.