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Topic Review (Newest First)

11-25-2011 10:13 PM

MARTINSR

Buy Evercoat and you won't have a problem. Don't think it's just the date, move on up to Evercoat.

Brian

11-25-2011 06:58 PM

south65ss

Ok, if this is the date it was made, I think I found the problem!!!

11-25-2011 11:16 AM

cyclopsblown34

MMM owns Evercoat too? I knew they'd bought Marson and Dynatron.

11-24-2011 08:59 PM

lets cut it up

I use body fillers every day...in fact we have been tring different ones because it seems the formulas seem to be changing as the rage I used years ago acted tolaly different than the one I buy now. I find that most of the fillers stay somewhat tacky untill you cut the top layer. Yes it clogs paper. The thing that I noticed is the different brands do it differently. Now if you dont mix up the filler before you add hardener you will have some problems drying also.I put mine on a shaker then let it settle. Metal glaze is also bad for tackyness after drying. By the way people, 3m owns evercoat so dont think your getting something different with evercoat products!!As far as fiberglass resin goes..it wont cure if there is oxygen present hence the wax additive if your not going over it again with glass.

11-24-2011 05:41 PM

NEW INTERIORS

Quote:

Originally Posted by TucsonJay

I don't know if you do any fiberglass work, but most resins are what they call "air-inhibited". The reason for that is so you can add more resin on top without sanding... and it will bond chemically.

Body fillers use a fiberglass-type resin with filler added. I suspect they all have a surface that dries more slowly for exactly the same reason.

I haven't used all brands (obviously) but the difference may be that some are prone to dry more slowly, due to differences in the formulas. Cold weather, of course, would slow it down even more.

If it's a small area, you might try a heat lamp... but don't get it too hot!

Over Five day's at 90* is a long time to sit and wait... I wonder how many more days it will take...

The reason you can glass over that glass ,,Is because it doesn't have wax added..The one with the wax added you will have to sand in between layers..

11-24-2011 03:47 PM

TucsonJay

I don't know if you do any fiberglass work, but most resins are what they call "air-inhibited". The reason for that is so you can add more resin on top without sanding... and it will bond chemically.

Body fillers use a fiberglass-type resin with filler added. I suspect they all have a surface that dries more slowly for exactly the same reason.

I haven't used all brands (obviously) but the difference may be that some are prone to dry more slowly, due to differences in the formulas. Cold weather, of course, would slow it down even more.

If it's a small area, you might try a heat lamp... but don't get it too hot!

11-23-2011 09:21 PM

lets cut it up

Wow people...I am sure glad this isnt a discussion on what is the best lead blend for doing body work. For God,s sake...it just body filler, and you pay for what you get!

11-23-2011 05:14 PM

rsfyj

Hmm

I have used NAPA filler the last 5 yrs or so and have had no problems, cant recall what the name is without seeing the can..

11-23-2011 05:10 PM

NEW INTERIORS

Quote:

Originally Posted by icecube508

Bondo bondo bondo. To me theres not quite enough info to give an accurate solution to the problem. But this is what i would try. Kneed the hardener before use and check to make sure it hasn't expired. Next make sure the filler is mixed. Check what the ambient temp. Is. Remember room temp doesnot mean the surface temp. Of the surface that you will apply the filler will be the same. Make sure the surfaces are clean and degreased. Mix only.what you need the more u mix the faster is will harden as a general rule. Also for a golf ball size of filler you only need the amount of hardener the size of a pea. Make sure its thoughly mixed and not marbelized.ie hardener streaks. Apply in 1direction. This controls uniformity and consistancy of the filler on the surface. Wait for the filler the fully catalize. Harden. On average it takes 15-20 mins for a good cure at 20 degrees cel. If all this dont help change product. It might not be good anymore. Peroxide hardener has an average shelf.life of 2years wheree as filler is good up to1-2 if it has not been opened.

You must not have read ever post.... This is not the problem...
Did you ''EVER'' try this stuff... I had three guy's try to give me this stuff after they realized it stay's tacky for over a week.... And I do know all about how to mix it and how much....Now if you didn't use this stuff.... I really don't think you know about it.... And by the way you posted here... I don't think you did use it... But that I don't know...... ''NOTHING'' Will change what everyone is saying about this.... It doesn't get hard On the outer layer... Pain and simple......You can go mix it for him... IT WON'T GET HARD..... Now if this was one guy saying this.... Well !!!! Just maybe he didn't do something right.... But it's being said by ''EVERYONE'' that has tried it....

11-23-2011 04:44 PM

icecube508

Bondo bondo bondo. To me theres not quite enough info to give an accurate solution to the problem. But this is what i would try. Kneed the hardener before use and check to make sure it hasn't expired. Next make sure the filler is mixed. Check what the ambient temp. Is. Remember room temp doesnot mean the surface temp. Of the surface that you will apply the filler will be the same. Make sure the surfaces are clean and degreased. Mix only.what you need the more u mix the faster is will harden as a general rule. Also for a golf ball size of filler you only need the amount of hardener the size of a pea. Make sure its thoughly mixed and not marbelized.ie hardener streaks. Apply in 1direction. This controls uniformity and consistancy of the filler on the surface. Wait for the filler the fully catalize. Harden. On average it takes 15-20 mins for a good cure at 20 degrees cel. If all this dont help change product. It might not be good anymore. Peroxide hardener has an average shelf.life of 2years wheree as filler is good up to1-2 if it has not been opened.

11-22-2011 08:04 PM

mr4speed

My jobber just got a few gallons of USC special lite (grey/black can), gave it a shot at only 14 bucks a gallon, and honestly cant tell the difference from the z-grip that I usually use. Problem is that once he gets another batch in the price goes way up.

11-21-2011 03:08 PM

MARTINSR

Quote:

Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS

I like the blue better anyway...

And how about the Evercoat "Glaze coat" with a white hardener, OMG you can't see when you mix it. I am told the Glaze coat and Metal coat are exactly the same with just different colors. I like the Glaze coat color but with blue hardener.

Brian

11-21-2011 12:40 PM

NEW INTERIORS

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Evercoat eliminated the red hardener years ago due to bleeding problems.

Brian

I like the blue better anyway...

11-21-2011 12:19 PM

MARTINSR

Evercoat eliminated the red hardener years ago due to bleeding problems.

Brian

11-21-2011 12:04 PM

NEW INTERIORS

I was always told it's all the same hardener....
The color was added to be able to know when it is mixed all the way.... Did someone lie to me about this ???

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