NAWCC Member

There's not another required step, no. I tend to let the power down and remove the balance assembly before I start working on watches, but removing the sweep second pinion and arbor first will be fine.

If I remember correctly the gear is pressed on. Careful when removing. It is easy to break the arbor.
There is a special tool for this. It looks similar to a hands remover but the tip of the tool is made a bit different.

Two hand lifting levers can be used if one is skilled enough. Protection to stop scratches on the plate is required. I was taught to use two screwdrivers of the same size and twist them in opposite directions to keep the wheel coming off straight. Any deviation from straight up lift, will result in bent or broken pivot.

NAWCC Member

I didn't interpret your question as "how do I remove the indirect drive wheel", I thought you were asking how to remove the second-hand arbor. Sorry!

I use a Presto #3 wheel remover. You don't have to spend $80 for an Almighty Bergeon (all hail, genuflect genuflect), you can get one of the $15-20 versions that are currently showing on eBay. It's dismayingly easy to bend the third-wheel arbor when you remove the indirect drive wheel. Once it's bent, it's danged difficult to get it straightened so the wheel is true in the flat. Indirect drive wheels are why I own two Presto #3 removers. Maybe I could have gotten better at removing them with twinned screwdrivers or other methods, but the Presto just works.

That's ok Glen, I didn't articulate very well what I meant. Not using the correct names for the parts didn't help either. Now I know what the parts are called

Admittedly I only used a Bergeon plunger style hand remover four times over 20 years ago and each time I either damaged the hands or dial. I should have practiced on a cheap watch before using it on something nicer.

Admittedly I only used a Bergeon plunger style hand remover four times over 20 years ago and each time I either damaged the hands or dial. I should have practiced on a cheap watch before using it on something nicer.

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Paul,

I would never use the Bergeon plunger style tools for hands - I always use levers as they give far better control. But for removing pressed on drive wheels, the Presto style wheel removers are what I use. There are two styles, one for an odd number of spokes, and one for an even number of spokes on the wheel. Most wheels have an odd number of spokes like yours, and for that you would need the blue handled Presto #3. I have polished the tips to ensure that they don't create any marks on the bridge, and in all the years I have been using these, I've never damaged anything with them.

Using other methods can lead to bridge damage, like this...

Or this...

Both on Speedmasters for the chronograph drive wheels, which use the same concept as the indirect sweep seconds.

Keep in mind that if a wheel had been pressed on too far, it may be very difficult to remove, and in extreme cases other methods may need to be used to remove the wheel.

Generally this is not a task I would recommend people do on their own.

There are two styles, one for an odd number of spokes, and one for an even number of spokes on the wheel. Most wheels have an odd number of spokes like yours, and for that you would need the blue handled Presto #3.Generally this is not a task I would recommend people do on their own. Cheers, Al

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Thanks for this tip about the different tools based on the number of spokes. Something that would not have occurred to me.

Normally I'm curious enough to give a new task a go, but this movement is in really nice condition and I'd like to keep it that way rather than blunder through an attempt.

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