no there is supposed to be more space between them so the swash doesn't bind against the hub. In essence if the swash touches the hub you will loose full movement of the swash and loose its ability to guide the heli in anything more than a mild hover, pretty much what you are describing. Here is a very old pic but you should get the drift.

Hey guys, been trying to find the answer to my question without much luck. My brother gave me his CX2 to mess around with and I've been trying to fly it outside. Seems like there's VERY little control on this thing for left/right/forward back movement. It'll spin around pretty well (left stick) but there's just not a lot of control with the right stick. I've tried moving the control rods to the farthest end of the servo arms and still not much luck. I think he put some after market parts on it, can you tell by the photos if something was not setup right? Thanks for the help.

Here is a link to some pictures of what I did to prevent the lower end of the lower rotor hub from binding on the top of the swashplate. Use a dremel and trim off around a 1/8" so you have clearance between the two. When I flew outdoors I had the pushrods in the third hole from center of the servo horn. It's all I needed, and indoors I still fly with the pushrod in the second hole. The further out one goes the more chance of binding.

1. Get rid of the current boom with the aluminum mount and get a Boomtown model 4 boom. Your current boom is going to limit your forward authority by moving your center of gravity further rearward.

2. Get yourself a shorter flybar. The flybar at stock length limits cyclic authority dramatically. If you can't find one already modified shorter you can buy a Dynam Vortex flybar and use the adjustable weights off it with your flybar. Optimal flybar length is between 4.25" and 4.5". Part number VTX-002 will fit your CX2, part number VTX3-002 WILL NOT. The weights will work off of the newer flybar, but the center hub won't fit, so you'll have to use the new weights on your stock flybar.

3. Get yourself an extended shaft. Once you shorten you flybar your chances of blade strike are going to dramatically increase. You'll need an extended shaft at least 2 cm longer than stock.

Is just the picture or is the swash awefully tight to the lower hub aswell? possibly limiting movement or even binding slightly

There is a cool tool at the top of every page. It's called "Thread Tools." Click that and scroll down to "Show Attachments in This Thread." You will see countless pictures of the swash. Not to mention some other "very" interesting pictures

Wow excuse me from being human and making an honest mistake...I did find a really COOL thing Chap in the thread tools....UNsubscribe. Have fun playing with your kid toys

WHOA...OTTO, hold on a moment I was just trying to be helpful so you could find other pics that other members submitted so it would help you find the problem. BTW, yes, the lower rotor being too close to the swash will bind the swash as Kodak Jack pointed out when he told you to scroll up to post#6258. I assumed you were looking for more evidence (IE: pics).

Not even seasoned members know about the tools at the top of every page. Sorry if you feel I rubbed you the wrong way but, I'm sure you interpreted my post "completely" the wrong way.

It's sad some people are so easily offended. I appreciate the tip. I've been on RCGroups for over a year and did not realize that option was there. Hopefully Ottoflys will discover a kinder heart one day. Life's too short.