Restaurant review: Heirloom

Looks like the glass slipper finally fits. After striking up relationships with a string of ultimately wrong-footed partners, the Wexner Center seems to have discovered the restaurant it’s long been waiting for in the inexpensive, seasonal, local, organic and healthy-leaning new Heirloom.

This pronouncement might sound premature considering Heirloom’s still-evolving menu is in its infancy, but I felt duty-bound to announce that this baby has hit the ground running. That’s not a stunner when you understand Heirloom’s parents are John and Kimberly Skaggs, whose resumes include the original Northstar Cafe, L’Antibes and their My Catered Table meal-delivery business.

The aforementioned Northstar lineage shines through brightly here. In fact, Heirloom’s tempting menu not only resembles Northstar’s in spirit, but it shares many physical attributes with it, too.

If you’re less ambitious with your yolk-enriched munch, check out Heirloom’s simpler Egg Sandwich ($4.50). For a few dollars more than an Egg McNuthin’, you’ll get a freshly cooked egg intensified by melted cheddar and housed in really great toasted, hearty, whole-wheat bread with a sensational sourdough tang to it.