Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea....

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Description

Pincushion starts 30 feet right of That's Weak. Ascend the short face with a distinct crux move just after the third bolt. The anchor is after the face above the second ledge. This pitch is a good warm-up and/or approach pitch for the current and future headwall routes above.

I apologize for the lack of clarity in my earlier posting. I thought that the sarcastic tone was sufficiently established in the first sentence to carry over to the second.

So I will be clear. I think that Pincushion is noticibly harder than 11a, and believe that the bolt placements were made with an eye toward minimizing the bolt count, not toward making a good 5.11 route. This might be more understandable, but still quite ironic, in the context of this being an approach pitch to a lavishly bolted project above.

I bolted Pincushion and the project above. I agree, Pincushion is probably 2/3 letter grades harder than 11a, but it seems every new route in the canyon gets massively down-graded; therefore, we decided to start on the low-end of the scale. I disagree, I think the protection is adequate, and it doesn't detract from the quality of the pitch. BOTH minimal bolt placements AND pitch quality were equally addressed. The project above isn't lavishly over-bolted - it simply appears that way because the first couple bolts are close so the climber doesn't hit the ledge and/or belayer if he/she falls when climbing directly above the belay. Thanks, BTW send me an e-mail, let's get out - we haven't climbed together in about 10 years. Take Care,

Good route, maybe middle 5.11 in the right conditions. However... this climb can get downright slick in poor weather- I got totally shut down [slipping] on and off of the crux with raw skin and humidity after having just done a neighboring 5.12 with much less effort.The first clip is sporty to get to, especially for the shorter folks.

I like the bolt spacing. And I am of shorter stature so, the first clip was a bit sporty. Also seeing how far the next bolt was I opted to clip a lone 'biner to the first bolt to save a foot or drop should I blow any of the moves above. I'm also going to have to go with no more than 11b. I don't usually onsight 11c and definitely not 11d!! The pro is adequate but that's it!! No more no less, I thought the movement was great and, although short, it was a pretty exciting pitch!!

Really interesting, albeit short pitch. I thought there were 2 definite cruxes, getting past the 2nd bolt and getting past the 3rd bolt. For the crux at the 2nd bolt being tall seemed pretty advantageous. On the flip side, being tall at the 3rd bolt sucked. By the time I rocked over onto the left foot, I already had the shitty, slippery (yet somehow sharp) crimp at my shoulder and didn't have much range to pull it down. Instead, I ended up using a right hand, flake gaston (above the hold that you spend half of the day hanging out and dunking your hand into your chalkbag), and left hand manteling.

The fun doesn't stop there though, as the holds are still kind of weird and insecure, and you have to make a few moves to clip the next bolt. For a bolted 11a in Boulder Canyon, this one felt pretty legit.