NEW YORK.

El Centro.

It sometimes seems like there are as many Mexican eateries in New York as there are people. Most of them are pretty good, but pretty much the same. El Centro won its place in my heart for being both better and different. The décor is a feast for the eyes, centring on a sculpture wall of dozens of colourful, delicate Mexican icons ingeniously fashioned from aluminium cans. The stomach is treated equally well by a menu that seeks to perfect rather than invent. Highlights include a simple corn on the cob smothered in queso blanco, paprika and coriander, and booze-laden slushy margaritas that will send you staggering out the door happier, and not much poorer.