It looks like I have to install another inspection port in my H21SE. I have two already, 1 in between the two cross bars and 1 just after of the rear cross bar.

I have to do some internal repair work to were the wings (seats) go into the hull up forward. The "tube" is cracking and seems to take on water into the hulls. The only way to access this area is by putting an inspection port forward of the forward cross bar. I cannot access this area with the middle access port because the centerboard is forward of that area.

Is there an issue with having 3 inspection ports on one hull? I don't think there is, they are very big beefy hulls, but figured I would ask.

They are just cracked. One is worse than the others. It looks like the gelcat is cracked but not the glass. I figured I would get in there and add a few layers for strength. I would rather put in the time and money in the winter so I don't have any worries come summer.

During a windy sail on Lake Michigan this summer,I noticed a small crack on the deck by my starboard aft wing socket.For there to me movement there,the bottom part of this socket had to have broken loose from its mount deep inside the boat.I order black access ports from my Indy Hobie dealer (the ports with the contoured base).After cutting a 5 7/16" hole in my deck about 9" center to center from my wing socket I found that the lower end of the wing sleeve separated from the gusset mount.I rebuilt that connection with kitty hair as that is what looked like the factory use to connect the sleeve and gusset together.That worked great.Than I coated that gusset with west system by use of a paint brush and come fiberglass fabric.Working inside your boat through a 5 7/16 hole allows room for only one arm to fit in making the job more difficult.If it was right in front of you the repair would be very simple and clean.It turned out just OK in appearance and I trend to be overly conscious of any work I do as many people are.Now my wing socket is stronger than new.This is the final wing socket that I have repaired in the last 20 years I being sailing my 21 SE.Each sleeve is at least twice as thick as they were new. All 4 wing sockets have be rebuilt and I recommend using black access ports,they look better over time than white access ports that tend to yellow.My daughter cried when she found that cut out piece of deck....but when work needs to be performed,you do it...The 21 SE is a battleship in strength and very very fast............ Bill 404 SE

I fixed my cracks with marine tex i used a PVC pipe to reach into holes and smear into crack you can fill holes with water and check level in a few hours the level of the water is where the leak is a shop vac will remove water and then it is time for more marine tex keep this up until the tubes stay full of water do not forget to keep tubes protected from cold weather I have not had the whole tube get loose

I think I'd try the Gluvit Epoxy waterproof sealer mentioned before and maybe take the output of a shop vac to pressurize and force the epoxy into the cracks in the tube while it's still wet. Mine don't leak... yet, but I'm sure it's only a matter of time.

Hey Bill how have the ports held up? I want to wrap it from the inside.Any thoughts? Would you do it different now? Would you use the same kind of port?It kinda gives me the heebies to put ports in a place that spends so much time underwater.At least they will be dry when there is light wind...

My repair job on the wing sockets have held up very well. The white access ports yellowed over time so I replaced them with black ones. I did step hard on my deck mounted port and broke it but I always carry extra so no problem.Of the four wing sockets I repaired, three look great and one was repaired with kitty hair fiberglass and it is rough looking...my bad... The ports installed under the tramp to repair the forward wing sockets are just fine without any problems. This location gets no foot traffic and remains always out of the sun ( I haven't capsized this beast in over 15 years) and looks new still today.Call me if you need some moral support...just a warning...my flexible morals are some of my attributes......................

Haha, thanks Bill!I think I will follow your lead.Would you use 5" ports again, or should I upsize? Is there a brand of port that is better than another?I think if I can reach, I'll just sand\clean then wrap the inside with a middle weight cloth and epoxy.I'll try the gluvit on the inside of the tubes to seal them after I have the extra thickness.

I recommend the 5" contoured base access ports, buy black as they weather better than the white ones. Dry fit these ports than remove them and do the fiberglass job. After your through with the fiberglass, install these ports. This will give you a little more room to work with. Carefully protect the hull from any spillage with wax paper taped around your work area.