Xinduqiao has become a buzzword in the past 20 years. The big increase of photography enthusiasts around China thrusts the place into the limelight. Yesterday afternoon we saw the one-street town was peppered with camera-toting tourists looking for lights and colors.

The influx into the town of tourists and photography aficionados had greatly developed the local economy, especially in the hotel and catering fields. At nightfall, the hotels and restaurants colorfully lit garnished the far-flung town with a layer of modernity.

We stayed at Muya Se’e Hotel (木雅色俄酒店). The hotel was also used as an army service station ( a guesthouse for transit servicemen). The staff at the front desk were nice and very helpful. The room was up to the 3 star standard with basic modern facilities, comfy and clean with wifi service.

We stayed at Muya Se’e Hotel at Xinduqiao Town

Before we went to our respective rooms for sleep, Mr.Chen and I planned to get up at 6:30am the next morning, trying to find a spot along Yingjiu Road (营九路) which branched off the G318 to catch the sunrise at 7:30am when it had its mesmerizing side lighting on the Tibetan villages and golden poplar trees by the roadside.

Today at 6:30am (October 18, 2015) my iPhone alarm wakes me up. After having brushed my teeth and washed my face, I heave my camera backpack onto my back, laden with a long-range-lens and one camera with a standard lens. Getting out of my room and I wait for Mr. Chen for a few minutes before he comes out next door and go to the parking lot together.

This morning bad luck follows us – the fresh sunrise is totally hiding behind the thick grey clouds which resemble a huge canopy cutting off the beautiful morning side lights. Mr. Chen came up to me off the cuff to suggest we should give up the sunrise shooting. Driving back to our hotel for breakfast and packing.

We leave Xinduquao Town at 9:00am and start up our long-expected self-drive trip from Xinduqiao at 3450m to Danba at 1860m. It is a wonderful 150 km drive morphing from Muya Tibeten area (木雅藏族聚居区) to Jiarong Tibetan area (嘉绒藏族聚居区).

We are leaving Xinduqiao Town around 9:00am

We are supposed to drive on the provincial level Highway S303, linking Xinduqiao to the National Highway G317 in the north and passing by Tagong (33km) and Bamei (60km); at Bamei, turn to the northeast direction on the S303 for Danba County (87km).

Drive from Xinduqiao to Danba (150km).

Muya, aka Minyak (木雅) and Jiarong, aka Gyarong (嘉绒) are two branches of the ethnic Tibetans living in Kham. Kham is one of the four Tibetan traditional regions – 1) Ngari: in the far west region of Tibet; 2) U-Tsang: in the central region of Tibet; 3) Kham in the southeast of Tibetand 4) Amdo: in the northeast of Tibet.

Muya Tibetans and Jiarong Tibetans speak the Tibetic languages which are mutually unintelligible to a large extent. The languages have no script, but the oral languages are very much alive. They both speak Mandarin Chinese when they need to communicate with outsiders.

Muya Tibetans (aka Minyak Tibetans) live in the area between Zheduo Mountain and Yajiang ( including Xinduqiao), south of Danba and north of Jiulong County, a historically regarded by Tibetans as “Muya” (or Minyak) territory. They are half farmers, and half nomads.

Jiarong Tibetans ( aka Gyarong Tibetans ) live in Danba (Rongtrak), Jinchuan, Xiaojin (Tsenlha), Heshui (Trochu), Ma’erkang (Barkham), Wenchuan (Lunggu) and Kangding (Dartsedo) in Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture and Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. The Jiarong area is very fertile at relatively low elevations between 1800m and 2500m. Most people work in farming thanks to the much more temperate climate than the nearby Amdo and Kham regions.

Muya Tibetans and Jiarong Tibetans are different in the aspects of clothing, housing, customs and festivals. We drive gradually from the 3450m Xinduqiao down to the 1800m Danba, detecting the smooth transition from the mixed Pastoral and settled farming to settled farming and agriculture.

Xinduqiao – Tagong (33km) 新都桥至塔公
Driving 7km westwards through the one street town for about 10 minutes and turn north at the first intersection on the provincial level Highway S303, we will pass by Tagong (33km), Bamei (60km) and Danba (143km).

S313 from Xinduqiao to Tagong and on to Bamei.

Again it is a sightseeing asphalt avenue on a flat valley lined with golden meadows, crystal-clear streams, yellow poplar trees and Tibetan stone houses against the meandering mountains under the canopy of the blue sky and white clouds.

A sightseeing asphalt avenue on a flat valley.

Yaks and horses grazing on the expansive roadside meadows on the valley between the undulating mountains.

Yaks and horses grazing on the expansive roadside meadows

Some local Tibetan villagers here are scattered on the mountain slopes surrounded by fields instead of being in a clustered settlement. Most of the Muya Tibetan houses are made of bricks or stones.

The stone houses have flat roofs and many windows with a compound like a castle with defensive purposes. They are cool in summer and warm in winter. The first floor is often used to store livestock and fodder; second floor for human living.

The Muya Tibetan stone houses have flat roofs and many windows

Some local Tibetan villagers live in a clustered community on the hillside.

Some local Tibetan villagers live in a clustered community on the hillside.

Rural Tibetans usually live in hillside houses facing the sun and not far from brooks. The golden poplar trees, limpid stream, Tibetan village and the undulating mountains, a typical bucolic landscape.

A bucolic landscape

A piece of peaceful land like an earthly paradise. Xinduqiuao area is a magical place with fascinating lights and colors.

A piece of peaceful land like an earthly paradise

A local Muya Tibetan is working on her pastoral fields. Yaks, horses, sheep are grazing in the tall grasses in the golden meadow.

A local Muya Tibetan is working on her pastoral fields

Moving on and we see a larger Muya community skirting on the hillside surrounded by an expansive meadow. I take a photo of the Muya settlement through roadside fluttering prayer flags.

We see a large Muya community skirting on the hillside surrounded by an expansive meadow.

We are driving through Tagong Town (aka Lhagang ) at 3700m, a booming town developed from a small village due to the influx of more and more tourists.

Tagong Town is well-known for the same name Tagong Monastery and its surrounding Tagong Grassland that offer great views against the sacred Yala Mountain at 5820m.

We are driving through Tagong Town (aka Lhagang ) at 3700m

Very soon the famous Tagong Monastery is in sight. “Tagong” literally means “A place favored by Buddha”. The legend goes that when Princess Wencheng, the Chinese would-be bride of Tibetan king of Songtsen Gampo, was on her way to Lhasa passing by this place, the precious statue of Jowo Sakymuni Buddha on the cart suddenly refused to go further on her caravan and people found the Buddha liked the place.

Later a replica of the original statue was made on the place the Buddha liked and a temple was built around it. The original Buddha is now in Jokhang Temle in Lhasa and the replica in Tagong Temple which is often regarded as “Little Jokhang Temple”.

Very soon the famous Tagong Monastery is in sight

We don’t go inside Tagong Temple, driving a bit further and get off at the parking lot in Tagong Grassaland nearby. The Tagong Grassland is centered on the Muya Golden Pagoda circled by the red wall compound.

The Muya Goden Pagoda (木雅金塔) was built 1997 with the fund donated by a Living Buddha of Zhuqing Monastery, a Nyingmapa or Red Sect temple.

Tagong Monastery Pagoda Forest

A close-up view of the Muya Golden Pagoda with the backdrop of Yala Snow Mountain. It is said that over 100kg pure gold was used to build the pagoda to commemorate the Living Buddha 10th Panchan.

A close-up view of the Muya Golden Pagoda

Numerous white pagodas atop the one section of the compound walls with the backdrop of Yala Mountain.

Numerous white pagodas atop the one section of the compound walls

Behind Tagong Monastery there are three meadow hills that are decorated with colorful prayer flags formed in triangle or quadrangle fluttering in the wind, adding much mystery and grandness to the hills.

three meadow hills that are decorated with colorful prayer flags

Tagong – Bamei (30km) 塔公至八美
Back to our Highlander and leaving Tagong Grassland, we continue our self-drive trip along the Highway S303. At Bamei Town, the Highway S303 divides into two “303” roads – one to the north and the other to the east leading to Danba. At Bamei we choose the east S303 going to Danba.

The view along the 30km road from Tagong to Bamei is a bit dull and monotonous unlike the bucolic countryside from Xinduqiao to Tagong. But we do see the spectacular views of huge mantra painted on the hillslope and colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind on the mountains.

The spetacular views of colorful prayer flags

The mantra “om mani padme hum”, the most mysterious and yet ubiquitous mantra of Tibet. We often see the mantra painted on pebbles, rocks, stone slabs, doors, walls and even hill slopes!

We drive by a mountain with a huge mantra painted on the slope with colorful prayer flags.

A huge mantra painted on the slope

Now we are at the intersection of Bamei Town – Following our nose is the north direction passing through Bamei Town; turning right (right side) will be on the S303 leading to Danba County.

Bamei is a town under the jurisdiction of Dawu County (道孚县) in Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.

Now we are at the intersection of Bamei Town

On the left side of the intersection is a Sichuan restaurant. If you are going from here to Danba, we suggest you have lunch here because for the next 87km from Bamei to Danba there will be restaurants on the way.

Bamei Town- Danba (87km) 八美至丹巴
We decide to skip the sit-down lunch and continue our journey east along the S313 for Danba. We eat some snacks stored in our vehicle for lunch and agree to have a big dinner this evening when we arrive Danba.

For the 87km overland trip, there are two impressive sights – Huiyuan Monastery in Xie De Town 协德乡 ( formerly the ancient Tai Ning City ) of Dawu County (道孚县) in Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture and the majestic Yala Snow Mountain at the elevation of 5820m.

Xie De Town

The formerly Tai Ning City ( 泰宁城 ) was established in 1725 during Qing Dynasty ( 1644 – 1911). The well-known general – Nian Genyao led his army stationed in the city for the defense against the aggressive Junggar tribes.

In 1728, Qing government allocated the money to build a temple by the Tai Ning City. The temple was known as Huiyuan Monastery (惠远寺) used to accommodate the 7th Dalai Lama Kelzang Gyatso in order to keep him from the threat posed by Junggar tribes.

Huiyuan Temple and Xie De Town (Formerly Tai Ning City)

Later on with the building of Huiyuan Temple, Tai Ning City flourished with the influx of religious pilgrims, traders from Sichuan and Shanxi, which also enhaned the culture exchanges.

Khedrup Gyatso, the 11th Dalai Lama of Tibet was born in Xia Village near Tai Ning City in 1892.

A close look at Huiyuan Temple

Yala Mountain at 5820m is located on among the border area of Kangding, Daofu and Danba of Ganzi Zang Autonomous Prefecture.

The summit of Yala Mountain is shrouded with snow all year round. It is a famous holy mountain Kham area. There are ten gullies in Yala Mountain Range.

Yala Mountain

We get to the downtown of Danba at 3:30pm and stay at Danba Xingji Hotel (丹巴兴吉大酒店) by Dadu River.

Jiarong Tibetans are one of branches of the ethnic Tibetans, and now living mainly in Danba area. There are two origins for the word “Jiarong”(嘉绒). One means “Jia Mo Cha Wa Rong” (嘉莫察瓦绒), or simplified as “Jiarong”, an old administrative region referring to the area surrounding the sacred mountain known as Moerduo Sacred Mountain (墨尔多神山), where Jiarong Tibetans now largely live ; the other means “the Queen of the Valley” referring to the lost Danba Eastern Kingdom of Women (丹巴东女国) that once existed in Danba area.

On the afternoon of October 19, 2015, with much curiosity we drive along the east bank of Dadu River from the downtown of Danba and get to Suopo Township (梭坡乡), about 5km southeast of the downtown Danba. Suopo Township is composed of several villages perched on the mountain slopes facing west by the east side of Dadu River Valley.

The legend goes that Suopo Township was part of the Eastern Kingdom of Women that once existed during Sui and Tang dynasties (518- 907 AD ). In the Eastern Kingdom, ruled by a queen, men had a secondary rule. The queen lived in a high stone square tower. The kingdom was governed by all women, and men only did the farming or went to war. The Eastern Kingdom of Women was later conquered by Tubo Empire.

Getting to the foot of the village in Suopo, we pay 10 yuan to park our Highlander at the parking lot at the foot of the village. A Jiarong Tibetan girl comes up to collect the 10 yuan. We understand she is in charge of the parking lot. Having heard a lot about the beauty of the women in Danba, the descendants of the Eastern Kingdom of Women, I fancy taking a picture of a local Jiarong girl.

With her permit, I take a photo of the parking lot caretaker. She keeps her long hairs with tired braids covered in her fascinator from her back to the top of her head. Her fascinator is varicolored with beads and pendents.

A Jiarong Tibetan girl

A Jiarong Tibetan man at the parking lot actively introduces himself as an owner of one of the most magnificent ancient watchtower in the village, eagerly guiding us to walk up the village for a glimpse of the towers. He says he works as a security guide in a bank in the downtown Danba. On the weekends or in spare time, he helps his wife introduce tourists to his home for paid visits.

We agree on the 50 yuan entrance fee for his home watchtower, and we follow him walking up along stone steps to his home. On the way, he says that there are totally about 562 stone watchtowers in Danba, scattered around 15 townships including Suopo Township. There are 175 ancient watchtowers in Suopo Township, scattered around 13 villages. Most of the watchtowers belong to private families.

He continues to say the original building of the towers was used to suppress demons, later they became fortresses to protect families from aggressive enemies. It also served as warning beacons to help protect local villages from potential attackers. People placed valuable things, jewelry, money inside the watchtowers. He deliberately mentions that Suopo was once part of the Danba Eastern Kingdom of Women. The watchtowers were also the symbols of worshipping a male sex organ during the rule of Eastern Kingdom of Women.

Getting to his home perched high on the mountain slope, he points to the potted flowers in front of his main room in the compound, saying Jiarong Tibetans love flowers, Gasang flowers.

Jiarong Tibetans love flowers, Gasang flowers

The kitchen room is on the first floor.

The kitchen room is on the first floor.

We use an exterior ladder to climb up on to the second floor, the living place for his family.

The second floor, the living place for his family

On the rooftop of the second floor, he introduces his watchtower attached to his blockhouse and encourages us to climb up the tower. A ladder takes you to a window in the tower meters high above the rooftop. Inside the tower, there are wooden ladders carved with steps easy for visitors to climb up. The inside levels of the tower are accessible through the several wooden ladders.

A window on the tower meters high above the rooftop

Mr. Chen takes the risk of climbing up step by step along the wooden ladders leading to the top.

Mr. Chen takes the risk of climbing up step by step along the wooden ladders

Standing on the rooftop of the second floor, he points to the neighbouring blockhouses attached with four watchtowers.

Neighbouring blockhouses attached with four watchtowers

The rooftop on the third floor is for storing grain. Taking a picture of the watchtowers nearby from the third floor rooftop.

Plan your Chengdu tour? We’ve prepared a list of the top 10 must see attractions in Chengdu, which may be helpful for your planning your short trip to Chengdu.

Chengdu the provincial capital and largest city of Sichuan, is located on the edge of the fertile plains of the Red Basin in China’s Sichuan Province. Chengdu has a history of 2,000 years with numerous historical places of interest.

Millenniums of history have left Chengdu countless historical and cultural sites definitely worth visiting. Also, your trip to Chengdu is not fully complete if you have not visited the Panda Research Base. Plenty of interesting attractions await your visit.

No. 01 Panda Breeding and Research CenterThe Giant Panda Breeding Research Base is located on the mountain of Futoushan in the northern suburbs of Chengdu. It has been created and imitated the pandas’ natural habitat in order that they might have the best possible environment for rearing and breeding.

The Research Base shows many practical specimens of the Giant Panda, including fossils, dissected anatomical remains, diet specimens, etc. Additionally there is a Giant Panda Museum together with research laboratories and a training center.

Entrance Fee: CNY 58
Opening Hours: 08:00-18:00
How to get there: take Buses No. 45, 71, 69, 302, 83 or 60 and then transfer to Chengxiang Bus No. 1 to the Panda Breeding and Research Center

Panda Breeding and Research Center

No. 02: Dujiangyan Irrigation Project
Dujiangyan is an irrigation infra-structure built in 256 BC during the Warring States Period of China by the Kingdom of Qin. It is located in the Min River in Sichuan.

Dujiangyan Irrigation Project is still in use today to irrigate over 5,300 square kilometers of land in the region. The project consists of three important parts, namely Yuzui, Feishayan and Baopingkou scientifically designed to automatically control the water flow of the rivers from the mountains to the plains throughout the year.

No. 03: Jinsha Site MuseumJinsha Site Museum is one of the highlights of your Chengdu Tour. The Jinsha Relics Museum is just about 5 km west of the downtown Chengdu. It is located at No.02, Jinsha Site Road, Chengdu. It is easily accessible by taxi and buses. It can be reached by the bus lines 5, 7, 82, 83, 96, 111, 311, 401, 502, 503A and Tourism Bus 901.

Ticket fee: RMB 100 per person 4D Ticket: RMb 20 per person Guide Service (English): RMB100 less than 10 people

No. 04: Qingcheng MountainQingcheng Mountain means “Green City Mt.” because the whole mountain is covered by green trees, like a city. Being 17kms from Qingcheng Mountain scenery spot, Qingcheng Mountain is famous for its beauty and quietness.

This Mountain is also one of the birthplaces of the Taoist religion. With over 20 temples and religious sites for Taoism With over 20 temples and religious sites for Taoism, it exudes a strong flavor of Taoist culture and the buildings demonstrate the Sichuan style of architecture.

Entrance Fee: CNY90 (the front mountain); CNY 20 (the latter mountain)
Opening Hours: 08:30-17:00 (weekdays); 08:00-18:00 (weekends)
How to get there: There are Tourist Buses for Qingcheng Mountain from Chengdu Train Station and Ximen Bus Station. The price is 60 per person and takes about 2 hours.

Qingcheng Mountain

No. 05: Wenshu TempleWith a history of more than 1,000 years, Wenshu Temple is the largest and the best-preserved Buddhist temple in Chengdu. It has been a popular destination for visitors and pilgrims alike for centuries.

Wenshu Temple

There is a tallest iron pagoda in China near the entrance to the Wenshu Temple, the Peace Pagoda of a Thousand Buddhas.

The most outstanding objects in the Wenshu Temple are these over 300 statures of the Buddha, which are made by iron, wood, stone, and clay. The most distinguished one is a jade Buddha brought back from Burma by a Buddhist monk on foot in 1922.
Entrance Fee: RMB5
Opening Hours: 09:00-17:00
How to get there: take Buses No. 16, 55 or 64 to the Wenshu Temple

No. 06: Du Fu Thatched Cottage Du Fu, a well-known poet of Tang Dynasty, has a strong influence in the field of Chinese poem. Du Fu Thatched Cottage is the former residence of him.

The cottage consists of six important parts: the Front Gate, the Lobby, the Hall of poem History, the Water Pavilion, the Gongbu Shrine and the Thatched Cottage. There are exhibits that provide details of Du Fu’s life and work. In addition, statues, stone carvings, paintings, and calligraphies by famous writers of different dynasties are also on display.

Entrance Fee: CNY 60
Opening Hours: 08:00-17:30
How to get there: take Buses No. 36 or 17 to get there

Kuan Zhai Xiang Zi is one of the three historical relic protection areas in Chengdu. This area is actually mainly composed of three lanes – Kuan Lane, Zhai Lane and Jing Xiang Zi as well as the old grid pattern streets and courtyards formed by the three parallel alleys.

Entrance Fee: Free
Opening Hours: All day

Kuan Zhai Xiang Zi

No. 08: Wuhou ShrineNow Wuhou Shrine is more than a shine. Instead, it has become a museum, the largest museum in China displaying the relics and introducing the history about the Three Kingdom.

Wuhou Shrine has incorporated the Liu Bei’s Tomb and Liu Bei Temple into one huge museum. In addition, Wuhou Shrine also includes the Sanyi Temple and 50 statues of the heroes in Shu Kingdom.
Entrance Fee: RMB60
Opening Hours: 08:00-17:30

Wuhou Shrine

No. 09: Jinli Old StreetJinli Old Street is located to the east of the Wuhou Memorial Temple of Chengdu. As recode, the street was built originally as early as Shu Kingdom and is called “The First Street of the Shu Kingdom”.

Listed in “the ten commercial pedestrian streets of the Nation” in 2005, Jinli Old Street combines the ambience of ancient and modern China. Strolling down the narrow street, you will find yourself surrounded by an old world. . The wooden steles and the brick-walls exhibit an ancient charm.

Entrance Fee: free
Opening Hours: the whole day
How to get there: take Buses No. 1, 82, 57 or 29 from the downtown to the Jinli Old

Jinli Old Street

No. 10: Sanxingdui Museum
The Sanxingdui Museum is located in the northeast of the Sanxingdui remains, near the Duck River. It is a modern theme museum which is 40 kilometers to the north of Chengdu. The museum was opened to public in October 1997. Covering 200,000 square meters, the total investment has reached over 30 million yuan.The whole design of the museum is simple, but with a solemn style. The museum has become a place of cultural and tourist attractions enjoying prestige both at home and abroad and one of the three exquisite spots Sichuan has offered to the world tourism.

Entrance Fee: CNY 80
Opening Hours: 8:30-18:00 (the first exhibition hall); 8:30-18:30 (the second exhibition hall)
How to get there: take the Bus No. 6 to the Sanxingdui Museum