So I had some free time this weekend and decided to tackle the pannier racks. I had a couple ideas in my head, basically combining the way the factory BMW racks mount with the HB set-up up. I had previously yanked the passenger grab bar off to save weight and because I never have a passenger. I was looking at it yesterday and decided it would make a good base for upper rack mounts, I hate starting from scratch.

The HB racks with some scabby middle of nowhere emergency welding on it:

Quickly hack the old upper mounts off with the plasma cutter:

Add the new upper mount tubes:

Repeat on the other side...ok that makes it sound too easy. How it really happened was:
Cut off old mounts on left side and grind clean. Sit on milk crate and scratch head, pondering how I'm going to hold 2 tape measures, a level and tack weld the new tubes in. So I zip tie the hoop in with various bits of junk off garage floor jammed in spots to shim things out to the proper distances, grab the MIG pistol go to tack and have everything fall apart. Swear, wonder why I always have to f%^k with things and can never just leave them alone, try again with the same results, leave the garage, bbq a burger and play fetch with the dogs. Try again an hour later and have slightly better results. I get everything tacked and double check all my measurements before fully welding things up, realize there must have been an earthquake while I was playing with the dogs because what was totally plumb and even a few minutes ago now it completely out. WTF?! Cut all my tacks apart and start over. Get everything bang on again and tacked only to have the same results. Looking closely I realize that the hoops are twisted (assuming from multiply drops) and depending on where put the level things are perfect or total fubar. Decide that even thought the bike is only a year old that it's had a rough life and if FAR from show room condition so I'm not going to spend hours upon hours correcting an 1/16" here and there only to tweak the whole thing when I drop it next.

Left side pretty good, pulled in over 2 1/2" from stock, only about 1/2" farther than the right side. Total width now 42.5", still wider than I want. I may switch to 1550 Pelican suitcase style which would shave almost 7" off the width and only lose 1 litre of space per side. I didn't quite get things wrapped up as I ran out of time and had to get everything back together so I can get to the chain/sprocket recall appointment tomorrow. They are supposed to be fixing the fuel sender (which reads full until about 1/4 tank then is accurate), the wobbly side stand and something else...drawing a blank.

I got the bike back this afternoon. Chain and sprocket recall repair complete. I was a bit disappointed to see that they are still using the CZ chain. I'm sure it's a great upgraded unit but I have zero confidence in their product so I'll swap another DID or EK on before the trip.

They told me the side stand wobble was normal and within spec, I disagree. Apparently the fuel sender is considered a normal wear part and only covered for 15,000km Again I disagree. They are trying to get it replaced as "good will", we'll see.

I got the Shivers torn down and they look great. I'm always a bit leery about eBay purchases but this one appears to be ok. They came apart very easy and are in great shape.

It's seems like a shame to buy complete forks for a few internals. Hopefully I can sell the slider and stanchions to someone who bent theirs to recover some of the cost.

As noted by -w-, the F800 forks have a ton of over lap which helps with rigidity. Even though the Shivers are 10" travel (F800 is 9.25" stock), the Shivers are about 4" shorter overall which makes it unfeasible to swap the complete units on to the F8. With some relatively minor machining the adjuster valve will fit into the bottom of the stock fork.

Hopefully I can get it all wrapped up in time for the MRT Rally in Nelson, BC at the end of the month or I'll have to be lame and take my work van

Since my bike is in pieces due to fork machining, I decided I should probably bite the bullet and get moving on my rims. I was sitting on the fence about re-using the stock hubs or upgrading to the Eagle/Rad hubs but the cost of the Eagles almost doubles the cost of the rims. I have over 35,000km on my bike and have no hub or bearing issues. I decided to strip the front rim and get it sent off to Woody's Wheel Works.

An angle grinder and zip disc sped the process up.

I was up in the air as far as the rear rim. It wasn't in too bad of shape and I'm not sure if I want to switch to an 18" or stick with the 17. As strange as it may sound one of the main reasons I'm considering an 18" is that Michelin Deserts are no longer available in a 17". I think it's a great adventure tire, long lasting, damn near bullet proof and great traction. I know there are hundreds of other knobby choices that are available in a 17 but I really like the Desert and who can bad mouth a tire that's won the Dakar 26yrs in row?! Of course going with an 18" means limited DS road tires. No Anakees, no Tourance etc. The Conti Trail Attacks are available in an 18" but I don't know a lot about them.

I still don't know what size I'll go with but did decide to upgrade to something stronger so again out came the grinder and zip disc. I have a week or so until they arrive in Colorado so I'll have to figure it out in the meantime.