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"May I-a Suggest Zee Chee-ken, Signora?"

Diablo magazine's critics' poll of through-the-tunnel restaurants offers few surprises (Va de Vi, Bridges), except for this nugget from Walnut Creek's Prima Ristorante: One critic noticed a server laying on a fake Italian accent. Think of it as dinner theater, especially in light of this claim from the restaurant's Web site: "At Prima we strongly believe in creating an individually customized experience for each of our guests." Um, how do you say "cheesy" in Italian?