Cruising on the romantic Rhine

This undated image released by Avalon Waterways shows the river ship Avalon Felicity passing a castle on the Rhine River in Marksburg, Germany. The small scale of river ships, which typically carry no more than a couple hundred passengers, is a large part of their appeal, in contrast to ocean-going mega-ships that carry thousands. On a river ship, you don?t need a GPS device to figure out where the lobby or the dining room is. And there?s a sense of intimacy, with plenty of cozy moments. (AP Photo/Avalon Waterways)

Avalon Waterways' river ship Avalon Felicity, docks on the Rhine River in Breisach, Germany. The cruises offer a convenient, visually charming experience.
a GPS device to figure out where the lobby or the dining room is. And there's a sense of intimacy, with plenty of cozy moments. (AP Photo/Avalon Waterways)

Photo By John Amatucci

The dining room of the river ship Avalon Felicity
offers a beautiful, always-changing view.

Some suites on the river ship Avalon Felicity feature sliding glass doors and balconies.
pically carry no more than a couple hundred passengers, is a large part of their appeal, in contrast to ocean-going mega-ships that carry thousands. On a river ship, you don't need a GPS device to figure out where the lobby or the dining room is. And there's a sense of intimacy, with plenty of cozy moments. (AP Photo/Avalon Waterways)

AMSTERDAM - Motor coaches and cars have helped me explore everything from Italy's Tuscany region to Ireland's Rings of Kerry. But recently I discovered a love for river cruising.

After a cruise on the legendary Rhine, I'm happily considering trips to other iconic waterways such as the Danube. The few wrinkles didn't take away from the charming, intimate experience - with not only the river but also with the people on the ship.

The small scale of river ships - which typically carry no more than a couple hundred passengers - is a large part of their appeal, in contrast to ocean-going mega-ships that carry thousands. On a river ship, you don't need a GPS to figure out where the lobby or the dining room is.

The idea for the trip started with my globe-trotting mother, who'd taken a barge on the Seine in the 1990s and had always raved about it. So for $3,100 (per person, double occupancy, excluding airfare), my mother, my sister, a friend and I booked an eight-day trip with Avalon Waterways on the Rhine, starting in Basel, Switzerland and ending in Amsterdam, with stops that included Strasbourg, France, and Heidelberg and Cologne, Germany. Typical of most river cruises, the price covered meals, wine with dinner and most shore excursions.

While river cruises carry just a fraction of the number of passengers who go on mainstream cruises, the industry is exploding. The number of people taking river cruises has increased 57 percent since 2008, reports the Cruise Lines International Association. That compares with 23 percent growth for mainstream cruises during the same time. European river cruises are expected to carry about 400,000 people next year, says Patrick Clark, managing director of Avalon Waterways, among the world's five largest river cruise operators.

"People love it. It's convenient, and visually, you get to see more," says Lanie Morgenstern, the trade group's spokeswoman. The trips are geared to a more sophisticated traveler who wants to mix up the trips for a deeper understanding of the area, she added.

New river boats also have more amenities than in the past. The vessels must be narrow enough to fit through locks and low enough to pass under bridges that predate large cruise ships, so their cabins are traditionally smaller than on ocean-going ships, with less room for large recreational areas. But river cruise operators are finding ways to add features such as small pools, and they're upgrading in other ways, too, improving menus and decor.

Before the trip, I worried I would get a narrow sense of the region - after all, the itinerary is limited to destinations with river ports and what you can see during a few hours on a port call. I also thought a vessel that lacked the comforts of a big ship might be boring. In fact, the fitness room turned out to be the size of a large closet. And while the three-level Avalon Felicity was comfortable, it wasn't luxurious.

Still, I was pleased with the at-your-service staff of 40 - a better than 3:1 ratio of crew to passengers. Food was top-notch, with buffets for breakfast and lunch, and more formal sit-down dinners. The only downside: All of the meals were on board with few opportunities to interact with locals. The good news: Next year, Avalon Waterways will offer onshore dining options as part of its plan to personalize the experience.

The cabin was small but comfortable, with twin beds inches apart. But most waking hours we were on deck or in a lounge looking out.

The highlight was sitting on the deck with other passengers as we passed through the romantic middle of the Rhine: the 40 or so miles between Bingen and Koblenz, Germany, that define dreamy notions of the legendary waterway. Cruise director Hans Beckert offered a narrative about the string of medieval castles, quaint villages and fortresses we passed.

We visited a different port every day, sometimes two. Sightseeing included walking tours, canal rides and tours of museums and churches. Occasionally the schedule felt stressful, with some departures just a few hours after arrivals. On the day we visited the German town of Mainz, after checking out an original printed bible in the Gutenberg Museum, we ran up the cobbled streets to look at Marc Chagall's stained glass windows in St. Stephen's Church, then sprinted back to the vessel for lunch before we set sail in the afternoon for Rüdesheim, known for its wine. That's the trade-off with a cruise itinerary: You don't need to worry about getting from place to place, but you have to do it on a schedule.

Still, most of the ports were right in town, so once we landed, rarely did we have to take a bus to get to our destination. And most onshore activities were included in the cost of the cruise.

One of my favorite outings was wine-tasting in Obernai, France. I fell in love with Rüdesheim, where we visited the enchanting Siegfried's Mechanical Music Cabinet Museum that featured self-playing instruments dating to the 18th century. I also took a cable car to the top of the steep, grapevine-covered hills and enjoyed a magnificent view of vineyards and the Rhine River.

Activities in Amsterdam included a tour of the Van Gogh museum and a canal boat ride. But we also took an optional, 26-euro two-hour chaperoned tour of the city's famous Red Light district.

Amsterdam was the cruise's final port. We decided to stay a few days in the Dutch capital for more sightseeing, so we checked into a hotel near the port. I could see the ship from my hotel room's window. Later the next day, I noticed the ship was gone, off with a new group of passengers on another adventure.

I felt a twinge of sadness, but knew I would come back to the river again.

River cruises

Cost: Prices vary by time of year, itinerary and level of luxury with fares typically per person, double occupancy, covering meals and most shore excursions.

When: European river cruise season generally runs until October.

Christmas market cruises in Austria and Germany are available in late November and December.