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6898VVV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for 6898VVV parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Removed two screws on each end of the bottom element, removed blade wires from element and removed element. Put new element in to place in oven, put blade wires on to end of element and put in the two screws that held the element in place. Watched and followed the video instructions on the website. Very easy to repair.

When we received the new element for the oven. We followed the directions that where given to us and had no problem installing the new element. It took no time before the the oven was working again. thank you for posting the directions to make the job go easier.

Hotplate not working

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

KILL POWER FIRST. I should have read other entries on here prior to starting. I would have learned that one leg of the element is always hot. Fortunately it arced against the oven, and all I had to do was replace the terminal. Could have been much worse. Unplug range or shut off circuit breaker prior to doing any electrical work. Verify 0 voltage before starting if you shut off the breaker.

During normal use, the heating element on my electric range burst into flames one day. Judging from the internet, this is actually fairly common! It's an electrical fire, so it's important to shut the oven off at once, and not a bad idea to cut the circuit breaker immediately. Then put the fire out and unplug. Remove what's left of the old element by unscrewing 2 mounting screws where it enters the oven rear wall. Taking door off of oven made it easier to lean in there. Then pull the crimp connections apart to get the wires off of each end. There are videos on youtube and partselect.com showing how. One thing they don't mention is that the wires may want to disappear back into the hole in the oven wall once they're loose. So hang onto them. I put a piece of duct tape around each one to keep it from slipping back into those small holes. When the new element arrived, I just reconnected the two crimp connectors and re-mounted the two screws. Of course, make sure range is unplugged while you're in there. Those two wires have 220V on them. I'm also never again going to leave my range on, either in baking or cleaning mode, when I'm not home. That fire was scary!

Upper oven shut down after reaching temperature

The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.

Turned off circuit breaker to oven. Removed old unit by undoing screws and remove from clamp.Put to unit in by placing it to clamps and adjusting so it was level and screwed it back in. Voila! But now I think I need a sensor..

Inner door glass shattered

There are five Phillips head screws to remove from the door (2 top, 3 bottom); the only touch part is that there are no screws on the sides, but instead plastic tabs on each side that "latch" inside the door frame; you have to use a flat blade screwdriver to work each tab and press on the door frame to unlatch each tab (yup I broke one, not knowing the setup the first time, but it went back together OK anyway). Once the tabs are unlatched from the frame, the entire front or the door will come off (be ready for this); then, just a few screws to take off the 2nd inner door glass frame (remove second glass carefully), and your to the inner glass, which just fits within the frame. Then, carefully backwards and the door is together again (once again, provide support as you take the last tab/screw off the outside of the front door, or you'll have more broken parts).

Bulb Replacement

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.