Montes, for me sums up what is right, and also what
could be better, about Chilean wines. Hereís a line-up of utterly
consistent, very tasty wines. They are wines that Iím happy to drink
and enjoy. But (and I feel terrible for saying this) tasting these
wines is a bit like driving a sports car with the top gear missing.
Thereís an extra dimension that is lacking, even with the Alpha M
and Montes Folly, icon-style wines that retail at £35. Itís a theme
I keep finding with Chile. Sweet ripe fruit will only take a wine so
far.

Montes Folly Syrah 2002 Santa Cruz (Apalta
Vineyards)Sweet, full and spicy with vivid liqueur-like fruit. The palate
has lots of rich fruit, some oak and lots of spiciness. Itís rich
and new world-like in style with plenty of structure and ripeness.
Very good+ 89/100 (£35 Waitrose)