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INTRODUCTION DIsCOVERING THE WEsTERN BalkaNs a pale stone bridge spans a narrow gorge. A snow- capped peak glows in the morning light. Bells ring from within a medieval monastery, and a muezzin’s call echoes from an ancient mosque. You’re in the Balkans. A decade after the end of wars in the region, the doors have opened again on one of the most magical places in the world. Whether hiking western Albania’s wild mountains or wandering the colorful Sarajevo bazaars in Bosnia and Herzegovina; breathing the Ottoman at- mosphere of Prizren, Kosovo, or exploring the mystical shores of Macedonia’s Lake Ohrid; dining on grilled squid at a seaside café in Montenegro or sam- pling the nightlife in the Serbian capital of Belgrade—visitors can’t help but marvel at the richness of culture and the vibrant weave of people, history, and TanjICa PEROvIC (TOP), gaRy jOHn nORman/gETTy ImagEs (bOTTOm), gavIn HEllIER/gETTy ImagEs (OPPOsITE), walTER bIbIKOw/gETTy ImagEs (COvER) nature in this crossroads of Europe. —The Editors PHOTO CREDIT TK Montenegro’s Kotor Bay remains a major Balkans draw. Top: A girl wears traditional garb for an August celebration in Serbia. Left: In Bosnia and Herzegovina, Mostar’s narrow streets beckon. Cover: Lake Ohrid, Macedonia.2 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 3

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MACEDONIA INTERIOR DEsIGN L ocation, location, location. Occupying prime turf in the fertile Central Vardar Valley, the prosperous second-century b.c. Roman settlement of stobi saw lots of traffic. It was a major trading center on one of the main routes between the Danube River and Aegean Sea. Residents lived in opulent style—thanks, in part, to nearby sources of gold and, especially, marble. Homes were decorated with ornate mosaic scenes of domestic life, animals, and geometric designs. Some of the most impressive mosaics are sheltered in Stobi’s basilica—an easy day trip from the capital city of Skopje. —Kristina Stefanova At the Stobi site, a mosaic floor surrounds the baptistry. SERBIA RaspBERRIEs: BEaRING FRUIT S erbia supplies a third of the world’s raspberries for export, cultivating them the old-fashioned way: on the sun- drenched slopes of the central and western parts of the country, in the prime time of June River, where the aroma of berries perfumes the air at harvest time and a raspberry statue stands in the middle of town. Brankovina holds a raspberry festival in June. Apart from their superlative flavor, raspberries possess and July. The result is a berry that is rich, red, antioxidant qualities and are used in massage MONTENEgRO flavorful, and sweet. The growing epicenter treatments in the Serbian village of Borac. is the town of arilje, on the pristine Rzava —Laurie Werner sUMMER DaYs: BEaCH aND BEYOND B udva, Montenegro’s trendiest summer spot, has long had it all. With its marble- paved streets, Venetian walls, and elegant medieval architecture, the Old City is often men- ered in the mid-20th century—date to the first century b.c. Come nighttime, sit back, relax, dine, and enjoy some music or theater. —Kristina Stefanova jOHanna HubER/sImE (TOP), RussEll gORDOn/auRORa PHOTOs (bOTTOm) tioned in the same breath as Dubrovnik. Budva’s main streets are sprinkled with outdoor cafés jOHanna HubER/sImE (TOP), RaDIus ImagEs/CORbIs (bOTTOm) and bars—ideal for the see-and-be-seen crowd, dependably tanned (Budva has 17 beaches) and dressed in the latest. To shop in Budva is to go from gucci to stores selling locally made rugs—a fine metaphor for the blend of then and now. A detailed exploration of the city—one of the oldest on the Adriatic coast—should include a look Villagers handpick some of the tastiest at the winged lion above the main gate and time at raspberries on Earth. the Citadel, with its impressive library of ancient Budva melds two welcoming facets: seaside resort and tomes within and, outside, striking views of the culturally rich city. Of its many Adriatic beaches, popular sea. The greek and Roman necropolises—discov- Mogren (top) is closest to the Old Town.4 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 5

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MACEDONIA spIRITUallY sERENE, lakEsIDE T he monastery of sveti Naum sits on the southeastern shore of Lake Ohrid, not far from the Albanian border. Established in 905 by Saint Naum of Ohrid, the medieval scholar who founded monasti- magical parallel universe—and all the more so after the ticket seller hands over a fiery shot of the monastery’s homemade rakija (see page 27) with your ticket. Sveti Naum carefully safeguards its peace and quiet (fruit brandy cism in the Balkans, the first monastery was notwithstanding). You can purchase trinkets superseded in the 16th century by a structure outside of the monastery, but the monastery that has stood its ground ever since. With itself, funded in part by a hotel and restaurant peaceful views over the lake and peacocks on the grounds, is kept otherwise free of com- strutting around, the monastery feels like a mercial incursions. —John Marks Spend the night: Sveti Naum Monastery on Lake Ohrid has a hotel on the grounds. SERBIA pRaYERs aND BlEssINGs A t night, seen from a distance, the dome of sveti sava Cathedral shines like a fragment of the moon, and it’s tempting to believe that the place of worship has been there forever. In fact, the church—named for the founder of the Ser- kilo/4,000-ton dome was finally put in place. The result is a stupendous work of religious architec- ture and an acoustic wonder. When you go to Saint Sava, be sure to stay for the music. Liturgical chant rises to the great central dome, a metaphor for the bian Orthodox Church—is the product of centuries heavenly spheres, and showers back down in an of struggle to establish a national identity in the echo of time-honored Eastern Orthodox tradition. Balkans. As legend has it, when the Ottoman Turks You can feel the sound in your bones. —John Marks burned the body of Saint Sava in Belgrade the contemporary era. But nothing within anDREj IsaKOvIC/afP/gETTy ImagEs (TOP), TOny EvElIng/alamy (bOTTOm) in an attempt to suppress Serbian resis- tance to their rule, “the people made an RObERTO mEazza/Iml ImagE gROuP (TOP). PavlIn DElCHEv (bOTTOm) HEllO, OlD MaN these walls is a match for Adam of Mace- donia, the country’s I oath,” says Belgrade native Milan Prosen. n a nice example of upcycling, the Mu- oldest artifact ever “They swore to build a church so large seum of the City of skopje is housed in the excavated. The that it would cover all the ground conse- city’s former railway station—a handsome small sculpture of crated by the ashes of Saint Sava.” piece of modernism. The clock over the main Adam—seated, with Construction began in 1936 but entrance is frozen at the precise moment in a detailed spine, stopped when the germans invaded in 1963 when a severe earthquake hit, destroying ribs, and navel— 1941 and didn’t resume until after the fall much of the city in its wake. goes back some of Communism. In 1989, the 3.6 million Adam of The museum’s permanent exhibition re- 6,000 years. —Alex Macedonia. Sveti Sava, known for brilliant acoustics, can flects Skopje from prehistoric times through Roberston Textor hold some 10,000 people. Candles (above) lend a silent, timeless mood of reverence.6 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 7

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• Bosnia and Herzegovina’s wine country is cen- tered in its southwest, where the climate is often compared to California’s. Obiteljski Podrum Brkic is one of the principal estates along the wine route. Seek out Zilavka and Blatina grape varietals. • kosovo has a wealth of grape varieties, including the widely grown Prokupac, followed by gamay and Smederevka. Wineries to check out in- clude Muja, Old Cellar, and StoneCastle. • Macedonia has 38 wineries. Tikves is the largest winery in the Balkans, producing 24 types of wine that range from bone dry to marvelously sweet. Vranec, the most important Macedonian grape, yields dark red, fruity table wines with full body and complex aro- mas. Worthy Macedonian estates include Bovin, Popov, Popova Kula, Skovin, grkov, Tristo, Pivka, and Chateau Kamnik. • Montenegro is a tiny country producing a handful of fine wines, mostly in the southern and coastal regions. Chardonnay and Cabernet can be excep- tional, and high-quality dry white wines are being made from Vranac grapes. Plantaze, Alexsan- drovic, and Kovacevic are among the region’s most impressive wineries. In Albania’s Vjosa Valley, white wine grapes cross the • serbia has a grape-growing history that dates Balkans Roundup Vjosa River with some old-fashioned help. Right: A retired to Roman times. One of the country’s oldest electrician, Mehmeti Eqerem (top) is a highly respected and most famous vineyard regions is Zupa, 129 VINES, GRAPES, AND WINES wine-barrel maker; grapes (bottom) thrive near Skopje. kilometers/80 miles south of Belgrade. Prokupac indigenous grapes that will be most interesting in is Serbia’s chief red grape; Tamjanika (a Muscat RObERTO gIussanI/sOlOmangO (abOvE anD TOP RIgHT), bIll baCHmann/mIRa (lOwER RIgHT) the future; the world already has plenty of Char- variety), a popular white. —Marguerite Thomas W inemaking in the Balkans is an ancient tradition that is just beginning to re-emerge after years of political up- heaval. Today, each of the Balkan countries makes wine, but regional, economic, and cultural differ- While some wineries are not set up to receive visitors, others are eager to show off their wines and Balkan hospitality. International grape vari- etals are found everywhere, but each region also boasts wine made from unique indigenous grapes. donnay. A nice glass of Blatina, anyone?” •albania has vineyards along the Vjosa River in the Permet district and around picturesque wine towns such as Berat and gjirokastra. Boukas is a winery known for its Cabernet-Merlot blends and Fa s T Fa C T It’s an exciting time for Balkan wine. Vineyards are being replanted, wineries are undergoing much- needed modernization, and large state-owned facili- ties are becoming privately owned, entrepreneurial ences account for variations in quality, which can Margaret Rand, award-winning co-author of the native Shesh. Some production at family-run Cobo wineries competing for gold medals. range from rustic to ultrasophisticated. book Grapes & Wines, puts it this way: “It’s the takes place in traditional kullas (stone houses).8 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 9

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BOSNIA AND HERZEgOVINA IN THE OTTOMaN sTYlE N o visit to Sarajevo is complete without some time spent at the Gazi Husrev Beg mosque, one of the best examples of 16th-century Ottoman architecture in the region. The complex once sprawled over a city block and a fountain covered by a carved wooden canopy. Upon entering, note the sign: no cycling, smok- ing, guns, talking on mobile phones. Within the mosque, shoes are removed, and women must cover their heads. —Kristina Stefanova included a mosque, school, soup kitchen, hospice, library, inn, public baths, and tombs—notably gazi Husrev Beg’s final resting place. Beg (1480-1541), the first Ottoman governor of Bosnian descent (his father was Bosnian; his mother a Turkish princess), had a keen interest in urban development. His architectural patronage left Sarajevo a richer spot. With fires, conflict, and changing times, some of the original structures are closed, but the well- preserved mosque (with its handsome dome, min- aret, and clock tower) remains open to visitors. It is constructed of stone, but the interior feels warm as worshippers and visitors walk over the thick Gazi Husrev Beg, Sarajevo’s main mosque, is a treasure carpets and gaze at the intricate walls. Equally of Oriental design, down to its rugs. A wood-canopied peaceful are the grounds, with baths, tombs, and fountain (below) dominates the enclosed front courtyard. ALBANIA BIG, RaRE BIRDs IN QUIET plaCEs T he gray-white Dalmatian pelican, na- tive to southeastern Europe, is the least breeds, though, in the karavasta lagoon in Divjake National Park, on the central Adriatic coast—the OPPOsITE: Ts CORRIgan/alamy (TOP), DOug mCKInlay/lOnEly PlanET ImagEs (fOunTaIn) ERmal mInO/www.DIvjaKE.nET (TOP), nICK KOnTOnICOlas/1000bIRDs.COm (bOTTOm), common of the eight species of pelicans. largest wetland area in Albania and an important What’s more, the region’s largest bird has a grand site for wintering waterbirds. The lagoon plays wingspan of 3 meters/10 host to a wide range of feet and can weigh up to 15 wildlife, including 228 bird kilograms/33 pounds. They species, 25 mammal species, tend to settle in isolated and 29 amphibian species. islets rich with fish. But Because of Karavasta with the decrease in wet- Lagoon’s rich natural diver- land areas due to hunting, sity, international organi- farming, industrialization, zations have stepped in to and pollution has come a help protect the ecosystem, decrease in the Dalmatian resulting in a reverse in pelican population. the trend of faunal decline, Flocks of Dalmatian pelicans can sometimes be The species is now seen flying in and out of the Karavasta Lagoon pelicans included. endangered. The bird still (top), not far from the village of Divjake. —Laurie Werner10 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 11

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SERBIA CHIC CapITal plEasUREs B elgrade’s cobblestone skadarska street is where the spirit of the old city lives. At the turn of the last century, this bo- hemian quarter was home to many of Serbia’s writers, musicians, and artists. Creative types Hip today, gone tomorrow? Not in Bel- grade. In fact, broad, pedestrians-only knez Milhailova street has been the place to see and be seen since 1870. Belgrade’s most prominent families moved into the area, and still gather here. The well-preserved main in 1938 it became home to the city’s first sky- thoroughfare is dotted with some of Bel- scraper. Today, its wide array of brand-name grade’s oldest restaurants and bars, where the shops and select boutiques attracts fashion- pace is set by live music and poetry. This is a conscious locals and travelers who, after good part of town for tasting kacamak (a po- shopping, find relaxation at the street’s cafés. lenta dish). The area’s vibrancy is expressed In summer, these places tend to sprawl onto at the galleries, open-air market, and on street the pavement, with tables covered by color- corners, where musicians croon 19th-century ful umbrellas. On the menu: Serbian snacks, ballads. Says one local, “You should only give modern desserts, and seemingly endless cof- money to them if they make you cry.” fee concoctions. —Kristina Stefanova One of Belgrade’s swankiest night spots, Magacin 3 has cool Just beyond Belgrade’s concrete walls and Old Town, tour boats warm lighting. ply the Sava River. Knez Milhailova Street (above) is lined with up-to-the-minute shops and snack spots. alDO Pavan/sImE (TOP lEfT), walTER bIbIKOw/CORbIs (bOTTOm lEfT), maRCO Pavan/sImE (RIgHT) Dva Jelena (Skadarska 32) grill up classic NIGHTTIME! pljeskavica (see page 27). Or go modern at Zaplet (Kajmakcalanska 2): Serbian artists H eading to Belgrade? Rest up before help with decor; chefs with “unrelenting you show up. The Serbian capital openness to anything new”—in the words of is an energetic and wallet-friendly owner Vladimir Melentijevic—turn out such 24-hour metropolis. Start with cocktails at dishes as spicy pork belly with parsnip purée. Pastis (Strahinjica Bana 52b), one of many Finally, digest by dancing at Black Panthers Slavic-sleek cafés along hip Strahinjica Bana (Ada Ciganlija Island) or the funky brick- Street. Rustic 19th-century restaurants like lined Plastic (Takovska 34). —Seth Sherwood12 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 13

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MONTENEgRO/ALBANIA skaDaR lakE: GETTING aROUND THE WaTER I n the midst of steep mountains, hidden vil- lages, churches, and ruins, the clear waters of skadar lake—the Balkans’ largest and part of a national park of the same name—are best ap- sERgEy PODKOlzIn (TOP), sanDRa DjuRbuzOvIC DImITRIjEvIC (bOTTOm) preciated from a boat or a cabin along the south- ern shore. Numerous walking trails, some better marked than others, wind their way around the dolphin-shaped lake. The trail from the village of Vranjina up the mountain offers a pleasant hour’s walk past a 15th-century monastery and culminates in sweeping views of the big water. Those who brave the park’s most challenging hike, to the top of 1,600-meter/5,250-foot Mount Rumija, are, Shared by two countries, Montenegro and Albania, vast Skadar Lake draws boaters, birders, fishermen, and oth- weather permitting, rewarded with a peek at the ers. It is part of a national park established in 1983, with a Adriatic Sea. —Kristina Stefanova diversity of landscapes, including wetlands (below). Balkans Roundup STEEP THRILLS F or skiers, the Dinaric alps—the long ridge of snowcapped mountains that runs down the eastern edge of the Balkan Peninsula— and, farther inland, the mountains of the Durmitor Range (Montenegro) and kopaonik (Serbia) are national parks) for at least a century, and the little town of Zabljak, Montenegro (population 4,500), is the gateway—a ski village filled with hotels, small restaurants (best to make a reservation), and rental places. Zabljak—literally the high point gaining in popularity. Value-conscious winter- of the Balkans—is also known for the 18 glacial sports enthusiasts, including cross-country skiers lakes that surround it (Black Lake is the largest of and snowboarders, are flocking to the slopes. the bunch). Some years you can even hit the very In 1984, long before war broke out, athletes highest slopes in summer. gathered from around the globe to compete in the kopaonik may be the least well-known of the XIV Winter Olympics in Sarajevo. Today, Mount major Balkan ski destinations, which helps explain Bjelasnica, in Bosnia and Herzegovina, is still a its status as least expensive. Located in the south snow lover’s choice. Due to a happy climactic of Serbia, the resort itself is a travel highlight, an coincidence—the mountain sits between Mediter- Alpine village that, in part, resembles a medieval ranean and Continental air systems—the slopes Serbian monastery. —John Marks almost always have fresh powder between Novem- ber and April. Fa s T Fa C T Winter-sports enthusiasts have been coming to People native to the rugged, forested Dinaric Alps the Durmitor Range (in one of Montenegro’s five are acknowledged to be the tallest in Europe. For adult males, the average height is 185.6 centime- PHOTO CREDIT TK aRbEn IslamI In Kosovo’s Sara Mountain National Park, the Brezovica ters/6 feet, 1 inch; the average for adult females is ski resort hosts international championships as well as 171 centimeters/5 feet, 7.3 inches. skiers keen to enjoy the excellent conditions.14 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 15

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Gracanica and Decani ICONS OF YESTERDAY S urrounded by fields of grazing sheep and rustling woods, the Gracanica monastery seems too sleepy to bear the weight of so much history, but enter the dark interior and you grasp instantly the epic nature of the place. Completed in 1321, just six decades before the battle of Kosovo Polje anDREw TEsTa/THE nEw yORK TImEs/REDux that led to Ottoman dominance, it has been repeatedly scorched by war. For a different feel, head west to Decani monastery, one of the largest medieval Orthodox places of worship in the region. About five kilometers/three miles from Pristina, Decani was built around the same time as gracanica, by King Stefan Decanski, who is buried here. The high cathedral walls gleam with 14th-century frescoes—masterpieces of the late Byzantine style. If gracanica broods with bloody memory, Decani makes the spirit soar. —John Marks Women as well as men PHOTO CREDIT TK PHOTO CREDIT TK take religious vows at Gracanica. Inside the monastery are frescoes that are stun- ning in their colorful simplicity.16 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 17

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ALBANIA DINE ON TRaDITION F rom the moment you enter Tradita G&T, a rustic restaurant in the mountain town of Shkoder, you’re immersed in the culture and warmth of Albania. gjon Dukgilaj, the jovial owner, greets everyone with a broad smile and then proudly shows off his museum-worthy collections of traditional costumes and artifacts. Musicians play, dancers (including some diners) perform the local steps. And at one end of the stone room, a fire roars, roasting the most suc- culent lamb you’ll ever taste. Dinner is a feast of the vibrant flavors of the countryside, presented by formally dressed waiters (white shirts, dark pants, red cummer- bunds), course after course. All ingredients are local; the dishes, seasonal. A salad of lettuce, cabbage, and tomato bursts with flavor. Roasted farmer’s cheese in bubbling olive oil arrives melting, ready to be scooped up and spread on crusty bread. Meats and potatoes follow. To fin- ish it off: pastry with almonds and honey along with glasses of fruit brandy, rakija. Fortunately, the restaurant has a small hotel attached. —Laurie Werner azEm RamaDanI/gETTy ImagEs (TOP), maRK ORfIla (bOTTOm), PER KaRlssOn-bKwInE.COm/alamy (OPPOsITE) KOSOVO The road takes startling hairpin turns and plunges into tunnels to reemerge beneath TakE THE HIGH vistas of soaring peaks and alluring caves. GROUND Rock climbers will be thrilled at the challenge of these immense rock faces, I n the far western corner of Kosovo, beyond the town of Peja (or Pec, as it is known to Serbs), a narrow road enters one of the most spectacular areas in the Balkans. Welcome to the Rugova but they should bring their own gear. The ropes left dangling down to the road aren’t to be trusted. For less technical adventures, continue up the road to the villages of Bo- gaj and Stankaj, the best launching points In Rugova Gorge, a rugged place of soaring Gorge, where granite walls vault 609 for hikes in these mountains. granite, tunnels are engineered for passage. In meters/2,000 feet above the Drini River. —John Marks contrast to the stone are delicate wildflowers. Tradita’s authentic southeastern Albanian fare: white bean salad and ripe tomatoes with basil, for starters.18 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 19

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SERBIA a ROMaN palaCE Balkans Roundup THEN aND NOW MYTH, O ff the beaten track in eastern Serbia, Felix Romuliana is one of the best preserved Roman settlements on Earth. Built in the third century in honor of an emperor’s mother, the site’s palace in- LEGEND, MIRACLE cluded more than 36 towers that stood over 20 meters/65 feet high and a sophisticated bath complex that featured a precursor to the modern sauna. Impressive mosaics and sculptures creatively depicted significant T he spiritual realm has helped the people of the Balkans retain their traditions and identities as borders, place names, and governments have changed through the years. mortals and immortals of the day. In and around Sarajevo, locals tell Especially noteworthy here are the floor the tale of the Goat Bridge, one of many mosaics, mostly geometric in their patterns that cross the Miljacka River. In one but with a central mosaic that creates an version of the story, an old shepherd impression of a third dimension—a very Clockwise from top was tending his goats when one started rare design for the period. left: Sarajevo’s Goat to eagerly dig at the ground. Indeed, the Bridge was built in Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the 1500s. Pilgrims shepherd discovered that the animal Felix Romuliana is still a big part of locals’ make their way up had unearthed sacks of gold. Lots of lives, especially masons who work to con- Apparition Hill, near them. The shepherd invested the boun- Medjugorje. The serve and restore it. “stone dolls” stand in ty in the construction of a bridge, which “These ruins are the pride of the local rural Macedonia. served as the main crossing for travelers population. Folks love to bring their guests on their way to Istanbul. (In fact, the here to show them their cultural heritage,” bridge was built by the Ottomans in the says archaeologist Bora Dimitrijevic. And 16th century.) ClOCKwIsE fROm TOP lEfT: alan gRanT, DamIR sagOlj/REuTERs/CORbIs, ExPlORIng maCEDOnIa.COm. OPPOsITE: svETlana mIRKOvIC the hot springs once enjoyed by Roman Near the Macedonian village of Kra- emperors are now open to the public. tovo stand 120 stone pillars, referred to —Kristina Stefanova in local folklore as the kuklica, or “dolls.” One story says the pillars are wedding guests cursed by a forsaken bride and turned into rock. Others claim they are frozen soldiers, caught crossing a clear- ing during winter. Locals believe a new doll appears every few years. (Science says the dolls are the result of erosion.) A 1981 event put the small city of Medjugorje, in Bosnia and Herzegovina, on the map for Roman Catholics. Here, the story goes, six teenagers saw the Virgin Mary. A shrine was built to com- memorate the sighting. Some 15 million people have visited the site since the first appearance of the Virgin. It is said that she still appears to some members of the original group, now grown up. —Kristina Stefanova Impressive Felix Romuliana has seen more than 17 centuries of clouds, sun, wind, and rain.20 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 21

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ALBANIA WHERE CIVIlIZaTIONs lEFT THEIR MaRks T he Roman poet Virgil wrote of ancient Buthrotum [Butrint], “I saw before me Troy in miniature,” and his words conjure the sense of concentrated majesty in one of the most remarkable, complex archaeological sites in yond,” says Oliver gilkes, an archaeologist who has worked on the site. Butrint began as an Epirot city. Later, as was the case with numerous settlements, it was Hellenized. Farther on, Byzantine Chris- tians created one of the most elaborate baptistries the world. Amid the ruins of Butrint, at the head of of the ancient world. On the floor of the baptistry the Straits of Corfu, remain compelling whispers of unfolds a tale of salvation, with mosaic animals. civilizations that rose and fell over a span of some Here, the faith of a lost world truly comes alive. 2,500 years. “Butrint is almost a gateway to the Be- —John Marks Ruins of Butrint’s baths glimpsed from the upper fortress. A golden funeral mask at the Na- tional Museum in Belgrade. MACEDONIA GOlDEN passaGE: BURIal RITUals B.C. U nearthed eight years ago at the oldest burial site at the Tsar Samuil fortress, a golden mask is shedding light on how an- cient princedoms buried their warriors. According to experts, the fifth century b.c. mask (estimated of its kind found in the Ohrid area. “It is thrilling to know that the golden mask myth is an absolute sci- entific fact,” says Pasko Kuzman, the archaeologist who discovered the fifth mask. It was found with a golden glove, ring, and funeral items. Two golden TOny wHEElER/lOnEly PlanET ImagEs (TOP), lITany/wIKIPEDIa COmmOns worth, 18 million euros), would have been placed masks are on display at Belgrade’s National Mu- on the face of a dead warrior as a way to communi- seum; two others can be seen at the archaeological BOSNIA AND HERZEgOVINA naTIOnal musEum In bElgRaDE (TOP), bEsaR KRasnIqI (bOTTOm) cate with him in the afterlife. The mask is the fifth museum in Sofia, Bulgaria. —Kristina Stefanova KOSOVO pEaCE aND HaRMONY Tereze Boulevard. Inside, local officials, aid S workers, and businesspeople hatch deals over trolling among artfully crafted, centuries-old headstones— pOWER lUNCH tables crowded with clay pots filled with tave elbasani (yogurt, eggs, meat) and, left, stecci—can be a, well, heady experience. The graveyard of Radimlja brings together peoples of various beliefs and social pishat (Rr. Qamil Hoxha 11) savory flija (pastry). Pishatt is classes—for eternity. It’s a peaceful place, nice for wandering and sits like a half-secret on a side pristina’s tastiest spot for local pondering the charmingly decorated 15th- and 16th-century stones A headstone of history. street off pedestrians-only Nene drama. —Alex Robertson Textor and the lives of the people who lived so long ago. —John Marks22 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 23