Food;
FINDING THE PERFECT PEACH

By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Published: August 8, 1982

FOR optimum enjoyment, summer's peaches must be at their peak. Yielding but not soft, full of ripe sweetness and juice and free of bruises constitute perfection. But in this imperfect world finding peaches that fit this description in the market even in midsummer is not easy especially this year when the crop is not top quality. But with some care and planning it is possible to wind up with peaches in good condition.

The best way to avoid total frustration is to buy your peaches at least a day or two before you plan to serve them. Except at fancy produce markets where each fragile peach is carefully cradled in paper and not touching its neighbor, the chances of finding a fully ripe unblemished peach are slim. Even a determined search for acceptably edible specimens in other markets may prove literally, fruitless.

Most of the time, peaches have to be purchased when they are still hard and at least a couple of days from ripeness. Try to select those that are golden, without any green, and leave them in a tray or other shallow container to ripen at room temperature. Do not allow peaches to touch each other or bruises are likely to result. Ripe peaches should be refrigerated.

Peaches purchased at farm stands starting in a week or two may be the best of the season. If they are ripe, use them immediately. When cutting peaches to use in recipes, place them in water treated with a little lemon juice or orange juice to prevent the cut surfaces from darkening. To peel peaches, simply dip whole fruit in boiling water for about 15 seconds, then run under cold water. The skins will slip off. They can also be peeled with a vegetable peeler or paring knife.
Fruit Sauce for Duck
3 pounds fresh ripe round red or purple plums, pitted, peeled and chopped 4 medium peaches, pitted, peeled and chopped
Juice and grated rind of two oranges
2 tablespoons white vinegar 2/3 cup packed light brown sugar 4 tablespoons honey (approximately) 1 tablespoon ground coriander
Pinch ground cardamom.

1. Place plums in a large, heavy saucepan. Heat very slowly. 2. While the plums are heating, puree the peaches in a food processor or blender and add to the saucepan along with the orange juice and rind. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook, uncovered, stirring from time to time, until the plums have virtually dissolved and the mixture resembles a thick sauce. The cooking time should be about 45 minutes.

3. Add the vinegar, sugar, two tablespoons of the honey, the coriander and cardamom. Simmer 30 minutes longer until the sauce is thick. Allow a spoonful of the sauce to cool somewhat and taste it. Add the remaining honey if necessary.

4. Allow sauce to cool and store in the refrigerator where it will keep for several months. Or pour the sauce into sterilized jelly jars, seal with melted paraffin and set aside to cool.

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. 2. Sift flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar and salt into a bowl. Cut in butter with a pastry blender or fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Gradually stir in about one cup of the sour cream with a fork, using only enough sour cream to make a soft dough.

3. Pat the dough into one-half-inch thickness on a lightly floured board and cut into three-inch rounds or squares. You should be able to cut 12 of them.

4. Place rounds or squares on a lightly greased baking sheet. Place the baking sheet on another baking sheet to insulate the shortcakes so the bottoms will not brown too quickly. Place the baking sheets in the middle of a preheated oven and bake 12 to 15 minutes, until the shortcakes are golden brown. Allow shortcakes to cool completely then carefully split them horizontally.

5. Mix remaining sour cream with confectioners sugar. Sweeten the peaches to taste with extra-fine sugar. 6. Place a bottom half of each shortcake on a serving dish or individual dessert plates. Cover with peaches and some of the sour cream. Place the top half of the shortcake on each and serve.

1. Lightly crush the raspberries and mix with sugar and Kirsch. 2. Force half of them through a sieve or puree in a food mill. 3. Mix pureed and crushed berries together and refrigerate until ready to serve. Yield: 1 1/2 cups.