Chipotle's "Farmed and Dangerous," a four-episode original comedy series that debuted on Hulu on Feb. 17, barely mentions the fast-casual Mexican chain at all.

Instead it presents a narrative that criticizes industrial farming practices while extolling the virtues of small-scale, progressive growers.

But whether it's sarcasm or satire, principle or propaganda, its bold twist on product integration isn't sitting well with some Colorado ranchers — even as it brings national attention to the company.

"Chipotle's theory is that the way they tie their brand back into this show is not through product placement, but through the public relations and media that surrounds it," said Daniel Rosenberg, co-founder of Piro, which created and produced the series, over the phone from New York. "They're not simply shoving the product name down your throat, they're creating a dialogue around the subject."

"People in this country are not being fed very well and they're not as healthy because of it," said Wise, whose acting credits include "Twin Peaks" and "Mad Men." "In some ways it's an even more important issue than global warming."

Both short films feature big-name soundtracks (provided by Willie Nelson and Fiona Apple, respectively) and animated characters who wistfully yearn for mom-and-pop food operations before starting their own.

Compared to most ad campaigns, they're thoughtful, high-concept projects with an emphasis on nuance and artistic vision. And the message certainly got out: the two videos have racked up more than 20 million YouTube views.

But with tie-in video games, trivia contests and direct links to Chipotle's in-house Cultivate Foundation, critics say they're also calculated sales messages that recall both the early days of television (think Kraft Television Theatre) and the sophisticated image-tending that "Farmed and Dangerous" satirizes.

"In the boardrooms of Madison Avenue, they call it 'values branding:' a marketing strategy in which a company tries to instill a feeling of righteousness in the customers who buy its products," wrote Ted Sheely on the Truth About Trade & Technology site. "But what kind of values would inspire a corporation to wage a smear campaign against America's farmers?"

Sheely, a farmer and board member on various California farming organizations, disagrees with Chipotle's stance that genetically-modified crops are dangerous. He compares Chipotle's latest "ploy" to a Super Bowl commercial that makes consumers feel morally superior while tearing down the competition.

"I object to the broad strokes," said Jo Stanko, who runs a 2,000-acre, fifth-generation cattle ranch outside of Steamboat Springs. "It's a conversation we need to be having, but it shouldn't be to the benefit of just one company."

Chipotle countered that it works with thousands of farmers and ranchers and is not ignoring their concerns.

"We have nothing but the utmost respect for them," said Chipotle spokesman Chris Arnold. "They make hard decisions based on what's best for their farm or their family, and we make our decisions based on what we think is best for our business."

Founded in Denver in 1993, Chipotle operates more than 1,500 restaurants worldwide. Analysts estimate its stock-market value at more than $15 billion .

Regardless of politics, the show blurs the line between advertising and entertainment. But its inherent quality and compatibility with Chipotle's message ought to quiet fears of other brands becoming content producers, according to Piro's Rosenberg.

"Some people think this is the devil," he said. "'Oh, a brand creating entertainment? This is the end of the world as we know it!' But people who have seen the finished product know we're telling a creative story."

If the series is successful, viewers can expect even more.

"I don't think it feels branded in the slightest," said Rosenberg. "On Hulu it sits next to other premium content — unlike user-generated content on YouTube. And Hulu has a free version, unlike Netflix or Amazon. So we've got the widest possible audience and the best of every world."

John Wenzel: 303-954-1642, jwenzel@denverpost.com or twitter.com/johnwenzel

Ray Wise (second from left) plays a worried corporate executive in Chipotle's new original comedy series, "Farmed and Dangerous." (Chipotle)

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