Cooking School: Pub American Style, with Recipes

Slide 1 Of Cooking School: Pub American Style,with Recipes

There’s no question that for a very long time the British have influenced how we eat. While certain English celebrity chefs may capture our attention in the media, Birmingham native April Bloomfield has made a quiet impact on our restaurant choices since she arrived on our shores.

In 2004, Bloomfield opened the Spotted Pig in a converted carriage house in New York City’s Greenwich Village, introducing a new interpretation of the pub to the United States: the gastropub (a portmanteau of “gastronomy” and “pub”). This is pub food gone haute.

Her cooking is a mash-up of pub food, her training at London’s Italian-inspired River Café, and American taste. Despite earning a consistent string of Michelin stars, the Spotted Pig doesn’t stray far from its public-house roots; this neighborhood institution is a gathering spot known for matching the quality of its pints to its food. Consistently crowded and lively, it’s equal parts “drop in for a beer” and “sit down for an amazing meal.”

Chef April Bloomfield is considered an ambassador of British food. “That’s a nice title to have,” she quips. “I came to New York to open ‘the Pig’ and just did what I do—really kept my head down and hoped people would like it. By the time I came up for breath two years later, the restaurant had become this wonderful neighborhood spot.”

You’ll also enjoy some British classics, like Sausage Rolls—a simple combination of pork sausage and puff pastry. “We’d always have sausage rolls floating around the house, hot or cold,” Bloomfield says. “I especially love the ‘porkiness’ of it—the buttery pastry next to the pork.” Having the butcher specially grind pork shoulder is one of the secrets to the success of these handheld treats, along with a healthy smear of hot English mustard.

Devils on Horseback—bacon-wrapped prunes stuffed with pickled pear—are a personal favorite. “I quite like the pickled pear kind of thing and sweet-sour-salty bacon combination,” she says.

“I remember having Eccles Cakes when I was growing up,” Bloomfield says of these cakes filled with a heady combination of currants, nutmeg, and allspice. They have a long history—they were first sold at a pastry shop in the town of Eccles in 1793.

Bloomfield also has two other New York restaurants, The John Dory Oyster Bar and The Breslin, and just released her first cookbook, A Girl and Her Pig. Quite a busy time for this nose-to-the-grindstone chef, who despite the whirlwind activity surrounding her, maintains a quiet disposition. “Keep calm, and carry on,” we would say.

The Spotted Pig is at 314 11th Street (at Greenwich) in New York City. Reservations are not accepted, so arrive early and enjoy a pint at the bar. For information, call 212/ 620-0393 or visit thespottedpig.com[23].

A relative newcomer to the English repertoire, this dessert made its appearance at The Hungry Monk in East Sussex in 1972. It’s a rich fusion of dulce de leche, bananas, and whipped cream layered in a buttery tart crust. “It’s the most perfect dessert because it’s not too sweet. Dulce de leche brings out the banana’s intensity, and the cream cuts right through that. I like it icy cold,” Bloomfield says. Grating the chilled pastry dough on a box grater and pressing it into the tart pan ensures an even crust.

This terrific party appetizer is easy to assemble. It’s just three ingredients—bacon, tea-infused prune, and a homemade pickled pear. The pickled pear will also work its way nicely into a salad paired with a hearty blue cheese.

Cut Spiced Pear halves into chunks large enough that an inch or so of pear will peek out one end of the prune. Stuff each prune with pear chunk. Lay half slice of bacon on cutting board, put prune at one end, and wrap prune in bacon. Repeat with remaining prunes and bacon.

Preheat oven broiler to high (if you don’t have an oven broiler, heat oven to 500°F). Position rack in middle of oven. Line 9x9x2-inch baking pan with foil. Arrange prunes on baking pan, leaving room between each one. Spoon the 6 tablespoons pear liquid along with the reserved 1/4 cup prune liquid over stuffed prunes in pan. Sprinkle with salt and crumble in dried chilies. Place in oven under broiler until the bacon is golden and slightly crispy, about 15 minutes.

Readily available at corner bakeries in Britain, these small puff-pastry parcels are filled with spice-laden currants. They are also one of Chef Bloomfield’s childhood favorites. “I ate them at school as they are readily available at corner bakeries. I quite like mine room temperature, with a bite of Stilton or Bayley Hazen Blue cheese,” she says.

In a medium saucepan, combine brown sugar, butter, allspice and nutmeg. Heat slowly to melt the butter and sugar (it will look curdled). When all ingredients are melted and combined, remove saucepan from heat; stir in currants and salt. Allow mixture to cool; check for seasoning.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Line baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside. On lightly floured surface, roll each sheet puff pastry to 10-inch square. Cut five 4-inch circles from each sheet.

Cut puff pastry into six (4-1/2x3-1/2-inch) rectangles. On lightly floured surface, roll each rectangle slightly to 5x4-inch rectangle. In small bowl beat together egg and water. Brush pastry with egg wash. Place sausage on short end of pastry, leaving about 1/4 inch of sausage extended out of each end. Roll puff pastry around sausage. Place rolls, seam side down, on prepared baking sheet. Brush with egg wash on outside; score each roll on bias with 1/2-inch space between scores.

Bake 20 minutes or until sausage is fully cooked (165°F) and puff pastry is golden brown. Adhere one fried sage leaf** to top of each sausage roll with dab of English mustard. Serve with additional mustard. Makes 6 servings.

Tip: *Ask the butcher for fresh pork shoulder with 80% lean/20% fat in a coarse or fine grind. Mix until just tacky; season with fresh sage, nutmeg, or salt.

Tip: **In a small saucepan, heat 1/2 inch of vegetable oil to shimmering. Add sage leaves; cook 30 seconds or until slightly darkened. Remove leaves with slotted spoon; drain on paper towels. Leaves will become crisp as they cool.