ok so i build my cannon and put the valve in with the arrows pointing in the direction of the flow, the only problem is when i pressurize it it leaks down the tube. i checked everything there's no debris on the diaphragm or the seal. but i noticed the pressure balance hole goes from the output part of the chamber to the part above the diaphragm. and as far as i can gather it should be on the input section of the body and go to the upper chamber. do you think just reversing the valve would work? or should i go get a different valve? also where do you suggest buying your sprinkler valves, homedepot doesn't have them, i got my whacky one from menards, and i leave for 8 weeks on sunday and i'd like to try get a shot off.

ok well i tried to mod the valve, i got it done with 1/4 npt but it was threaded into about 3/32 thick plastic so i decided for a bigger diameter (3/8 npt) but i couldn't find a tap to tap the hole so i put the flow control back in and tried it with the solenoid.

ok well i tried to mod the valve, i got it done with 1/4 npt but it was threaded into about 3/32 thick plastic so i decided for a bigger diameter (3/8 npt) but i couldn't find a tap to tap the hole so i put the flow control back in and tried it with the solenoid.

1/4 is probably your best bet. even with the thickness of that it'll probably still hold up to the pressure, i mean sprinkler valves usually arent rated above 150. one thing you need to invest in is some 5 minute epoxy. spackle that crap around your fitting, make it stronger. as far as a tap, dude you are screwing metal into plastic. if you're a poof yeah use a tap but if you're a man stick a 9/16 socket on the deal and rachet that sucker in. it'll cut the threads as it goes in. really easy to do. once you get the threads started pull it back out and when your ready slather some epoxy around the threads and screw it back in.

I recommend getting a new one.

Yeah screw that. Dude if your car breaks down do you just go buy a new one, hell no, you fix it.

Ok so i read the original post and from what you have said, I have had the same problem with the first 1" valve i got. It is a 1" irritol valve and the guide rod is hollow and the where the rod attaches below the diaphragm into the body of the valve there is a hole on the output side of the valve that directly connects to the hollow guide rod. when i first modded the valve i noticed the same thing, the valve would not seal because the pilot side of the valve was constantly being piloted through the guide rod and out the output. solution, simple.... epoxy. i ended up mixing a little bit thinner batch of epoxy and dripped it into the hole on the output side of the valve and sucked on the guide rod til the hole was empty. i let that set a little bit and then filled the hole back up with a 1:1 mix of epoxy. once it setup i was able to close the valve under lung power. just something for you to think about. i can post pictures if anyone needs a visual.

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Last edited by BigGrib on Wed Mar 26, 2008 4:19 am, edited 2 times in total.

The hole that leads from above the diaphragm to the outlet side (and through the solenoid port) is the exhaust hole. The whole area where the solenoid previously screwed in should be filled with epoxy. The hole in the middle where the guide rod goes through is also the equalization hole.