Latest revision as of 08:04, 22 March 2013

The following information has been sourced from the SACIN website and the CRAGS OF GAUTENG route guide published in 2003 by Rory Lowther and Andrew Porter. Assistance has been received from Neil Margetts regarding the lines bolted subsequent to the latest updates to those sources. Eventually, this information will be used for an updated Crags of Gauteng guide, but in the meantime, it is hoped that this information will assist climbers wanting to visit the area.

STRUBENSVALLEY
This area is named after Fred and Harry Struben who were gold prospectors in the 1880’s, and mined in this area before gold was discovered on the reef.

This crag is one of the Witwatersrand’s finest assets as far as sport climbing is concerned. Principally, there are 2 areas, the upper and lower bands on the right hand side of the road.

The crags forming the upper band are overhanging at the base, but ease off towards the top. The routes are strenuous, often following cracks and corners, many of these can be led as climbs. These are the largest and highest crags in the area, and range from 15m to 20m above the large cave.

Many of the routes in the upper band can be, and are led as trad climbs. The following guide is used to indicate the seriousness of the lead in terms of gear placement, or fall potential:
G The route can be well protected with a normal trad rack.
PG These routes require either special gear such as side runners or pegs.
R These routes have minimal gear and a fall is likely to result in serious injury or broken bones. The route is most likely top-roped.

Driving directions
Access is free and easy. Drive north along Hendrik Potgieter drive, cross over Christiaan de Wet Road, and take the next road to the left, which is FredenHarry Drive. Follow this road past a small shopping centre where pizzas or burgers can be eaten on the way back. When you get to a T-junction turn right, pass through a dip and as the road starts to curve rightward at what could have been a T-junction you will see a vacant stand ahead of you, park here.

Walk upward slightly to the left on a fairly well defined path. You will see a band of rock to your right (presently undeveloped but open) and then on the left. The sport routes are on the left. Just above this crag there is another crag with several natural routes which were in the process of being bolted. There is a squatter here that does however occupy a few of the best lines through a cave.

Aspect
The face sees some sunlight in the morning but is usually shaded in the afternoon being almost east facing. The climbs are so consumer friendly, that you can climb your tips off in half a day, so try summer afternoons, or winter mornings as a first guess.

Note
This is an excellent beginner crag. Historically, the grades at Strubensvalley have been inflated. This version of the guide has attempted to correct this. The grades may seem stiff compared to the previous guide, but will hopefully prepare you a little better for places like Waterval Boven where the grades tend to be more realistic.

If the cliffs on the lower band seem over-bolted, you’re probably right. The bolts are close together both vertically and horizontally. The routes are squeezed in, and as a general rule, the bolt line of the next climb demarcates the extent of the ‘legal’ holds on your route (don’t get overly concerned though). Enjoy this as an open air training wall.

Upper Section
The upper section is found above and to the left (facing the crags from below) of the main crags. Head towards the main overhanging area where you will find climbs such as BLACK MAGIC (unfortunately this cave is occupied at present). From here, head left to get to the bolted climbs. The routes to the far left are actually pretty good.

INTO PINK 18 ** [6D]
On the left hand side of the Upper band, slightly above the rest of the cliffs is a steep red broken buttress with a large thin flake 3m high in the centre, at its base. Climb the crack on the left hand side of the flake to its top, then step up left to above a small overhang. From there continue up slightly right via a small recess to the top.
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

THINK PINK 18 ** [6B]
Climb the crack on the right of the flake (see INTO PINK) continuing up to the corner above, then at its top climb another small corner, just to the right of the ridge, to the top.
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

SLIVER ARROWS 16 [7D]
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

GREEN LIGHT 13 [6D]
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

PINK HOT PEPPERS 14 * [6D]
Straddle up short dark brown square recess to the right of THINK PINK, and just to the left of a cave with blocks in it. Step left at the large block which is at the top of the recess. Has a tricky start.
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

PURPLE FRENZY 20 ** [6D]
Walk down 10m from THINK PINK to a lower buttress with a smooth undercut bulge at its base. Balance up bulge along a ridge 1m to the right of white streak, to a flared crack underneath an overhang. Pull over overhang and continue up easier ground to the top, keeping to the ridge.
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

GOAT CRACK 17 ** [6D]
To the right of PURPLE FRENZY is an obvious crack leading to an open hook above with blocks in it. Climb initial section (crux) to cubby hole, then continue up steep crack above on good grips to the top.

BALDERDASH 15 [6D]
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

BUMBLE BEE 9 * [G]
4m to the right of GOAT CRACK is a small tree. Climb left of tree to ledge, then move up left via crack to a ledge 1m to the right of the cubby hole of GOAT CRACK. Then climb up cracks above to the top.

SADDLEBAGS 16 [7D]
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

LIFE IN THE FAST LANE 19 ** [7D]
About 7m to the right of BUMBLE BEE is a 4.5m high thin crack with peg scars in it (dark rock). Climb the crack to a small ledge and instead of moving up left to easy ground, reach right to another crack/corner, which is followed to the top. If the block on the right is used to straddle, the grade is reduced.
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

LAUGHTER OF THE MORTALS 10 [G]
2m to the right of LIFE IN THE FAST LANE is a slab leading to a chimney in between to obvious ridges. Start to the right, and step left into the chimney which is then climbed to the top.

TEA BAGGING 12 *** [7D]
Two ridges are mentioned in LAUGHTER OF THE MORTALS. Climb up the right side of the right ridge on big jugs to the top.
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

GETTING AIR 16 ** [6D]
Move up the centre of wall which is to the right of TEA BAGGING to the top (avoiding good grips on TEA BAGGING and the crack on the right)
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

GET TUBED 14 ** [5D]
To the right of TEA BAGGING is an obvious, attractive scoop shaped overhanging face with two corners on either side. Climb the left hand corner to the top, moving left near the top.
Bolted by: Neil Margetts.

CUTBACK SPRAY 18 * [G]
Climb the right hand side of the scoop mentioned in IS THERE ANYBODY IN THERE, to the top.

BARRACUDA 17 ** [G]
3m to the right of the start of IS THERE ANYBODY OUT THERE is a bushy tree. Above the tree is a small corner with a few roots in it at the base. Climb this corner to an overhang, rail left, and move up corner on left until one can step right again, to above the previously mentioned overhang. Then continue past fig tree to top.

MUSSEL CRACKER 20 * [PG]
2,5m to the right of the tree mentioned in BARACUDA is another similar tree. Step onto grey face here and climb up to the large ledge above. Above this is a short overhanging face with a break in it directly above the start. Climb this break which leads into a crack higher up, to the top.

THUNDER THIGHS 11 [PG]
Start as for MUSSEL CRACKER, but tend rightwards towards a tree. Then climb up through the tree onto another ledge. Continue along ledge until possible to easily climb to the top.

THUNDER THIGHS DIRECT 13 ** [G]
4m to the right of THUNDER THIGHS are a few large boulders. On the right of these is a tree next to the crag. Step into the corner below the prominent overhang 3m up. Climb up to the ledge above. Then continue up corner to the tree of THUNDER THIGHS. Continue directly to the top.

LUNAR LIGHT TRAVERSE 20 *** [G]
1. 25m 20 This is a superb girdle traverse, probably the best route on the crag. At the thin tree mentioned in THUNDER THIGHS DIRECT, climb up for 3m until you can traverse right along the obvious rail under the fig tree. Continue for 25m at the lip of the cave until you get to another fig tree. Climb up 4m to a ledge.
2. 10m 15 Walk right, to below the nose. Move up on the right hand side and swing around left to the obvious hand crack. Follow this to its end and then continue to top.
Note: This route has to be led. The first pitch is sustained, and is as hard to follow as it is to lead.

STUMBLING PILGRIM 22 ** [PG]
Start about 3m to the right of the start of LUNAR LIGHT TRAVERSE below the fig tree. Climb up to the rail and up on small grips to a small recess to the left of a nose and to the right of a fig tree. Climb up this for 3m to easier ground which is followed to the top.

BLACK MAGIC 23 ** [G]
Above the right hand side of the boulders mentioned in THUNDER THIGHS DIRECT is an obvious vee shaped break in the roof above. Pull up initial overhang using underclings to the rail, continue up to break, then climb through break (crux) to easier ground, continue up vague recess above to the top.

MAGIC MUSHROOM 25 *** [?B]
Move up diagonally left, starting half a metre to the left of the start of TIDAL WAVE, to the rail. Move up to a bolt. Continue up through the overhanging rock above, past the second bolt to the top. Do not use the grips that would normally be used for the routes on either side for handholds or footholds.

VOODOO 21 *** [G]
About 3m to the right of BLACK MAGIC is a large obvious corner. Climb directly up to the corner after negotiating the initial overhang, climb the corner (crux) and continue straight up crack above without stepping right onto easier rock (a superb direct line).

STICKY WICKET 20 ** [G]
Start as for TIDAL WAVE to the rail. Rail right to a corner, move right onto the nose and then up to grips above a thin crack. Then move up diagonally left to a ledge. Continue up to the top.

STICKY WICKET DIRECT 24 ** [PG]
Pull up into the corner to the right of the start of TIDAL WAVE (reachy). Then execute a very contrived pull through the roof above, without touching the right wall of the corner. (Height is a definite advantage for both cruxes).

THE END OF THE NIGHT 19 A2 ** [G]
3m to the right of STICKY WICKET DIRECT is a hairline crack running through the initial bulge, widening to finger size higher up. Aid (A3) up initial section on blades and poor nuts to the rail, then continue up crack above (free climbing) with some difficult moves (19) near the top.

MENTAL BLOCK 24 *** [G]
5m to the right of the start of STICKY WICKET DIRECT is an obvious jug handhold about 3m up, at the lip of the cave. Move onto this dynamically and continue up to a rest on the rail (crux) . Continue up over second overhang (20) and up to top.

HOT CANARY 19 * [G]
5m to the right of the start of MENTAL BLOCK is a short root filled crack. Climb this to the rail, ascend wide crack above (crux) to a ledge. Then avoid grotty rock above by traversing right for 5m to an attractive nose with an obvious hand crack on its left hand side. Climb this to the top, starting on its right hand side. (As in LUNAR LIGHT TRAVERSE)

STARGAZER 23 *** [G]
5m to the right of HOT CANARY is a short corner topped by a roof. To its right, above 2 large, flatish boulders are 2 smooth, overhanging bulges. Straddle up the corner to the roof, then rail right above the first bulge to a cramped position. Pull through second bulge strenuously until the grade eases, then continue up ridge above (excellent dynamic moves)

SMOKE ALLEY 21 ** [G]
At the right hand end of the big cave. 4m to the right, and around the corner from the start of STARGAZER is a crack up an overhanging recess. Climb this (crux) and follow easy cracks to the top.

JUGULAR VEIN 22 ** [G]
About 1,5m to the right of SMOKE ALLEY is an obvious crack running up and through overhangs. JUGUALR VEIN climbs this crack.

EYES OF FIRE 18 ** [G]
Climb the crack to the right of JUGUALR VEIN to the top. Continue up easy ground above.

CURMUDGEN CORNER 13 * [G]
Start 10m up BLACK JACK GULLY in a short obvious corner with yellow and grey patches. This is just to the left of a dusty cave whose ceiling consists of large boulders. Climb the corner and continue past the tree above to the top.

BLACK JACK GULLY 5
The obvious decent route with tree at base.

DEVIOUS 19 ** [?]
Climb face 1m right of EYES OF FIRE through overhang to top.

ENVIOUS 18 ** [?]
Climb shallow recess 1m to the right and around the corner of DEVIOUS.

NEIL YOUNG BUTTRESS
OUT OF THE BLACK 20 ** [PG]
About 4m up BLACK JACK GULLY on the true left is an obvious finger crack up a grey and cream streaked wall. Climb the crack to a rail, then pull straight through the centre of the steep face above to reach the top.

INTO THE BLUE 15 ** [G]
Climb the crack system directly above the tree at the base of BLACK JACK GULLY. Climb up past some white streaks to an undercling rail. Then move left onto further cracks and ascend (passing a tree on the right) to the top.

THRASHER 20 * [PG]
To the right of INO THE BLUE is a large overhang about 2m up. Start as for HEART OF GOLD and step up left onto the lip of the overhang. Then follow the thin crack past the small tree to the undercling rail and second overhang. Pull through centre of second overhang at about 1.5m to the right of INTO THE BLUE. Continue straight to the top.

HEART OF GOLD 20 ** [PG]
On the front of the Neil Young Buttress at the base of the crag are 3 large boulders under an overhang, the right hand one forming a 2m high pillar. Start up the pillar, then climb crack above. Continue straight up recess above (crux) and finish on ridge at top.

LOST COMPANIONS 14 ** [G]
1m to the right of the pillar mentioned in HEART OF GOLD is a thin crack up a dark wall. Climb this past some small bushes into a wider crack, which is followed to the top.

POKOHARNESS 14 ** [PG]
1m to the right of LOST COMPANIONS is a thin crack with roots at the top. Climb this.

AURORA BOREALIS 21 [PG]
To the right of CRYSTAL CANYONS is an overhanging bulge with a tree at its base (in the centre). Up the wall/bulge are 2 thin cracks on either side of the tree. Climb the left hand crack.

HAY HAY MY MY 16 *** [PG]
Around the corner to the right of JOHNNY ROTTEN is an attractive face. Start on the left, moving through initial overhang onto the face. Avoiding ledges on the left, step right onto a small ledge about 2m above the ground. Climb directly up the centre of the brown yellow face above to the top.
Note: An easier variation can be climbed up the left arete.

YOUNG MAN’S ENTRANCE 14 ** [PG]
One day whilst wandering aimlessly around the top of the crag too lazy to walk down. I decided to scramble down and inadvertently opened a route worth writing up.
10m to the right of HAY HAY MY MY is a broken face shaded closely by a large tree. Start by a clump of routes about the size of a woman’s foot embedded in the face. Climb straight up towards a sturdy Combretum tree.

WOW 14 ** [G]
Around the corner to the right of YOUNG MAN’s ENTRANCE are two obvious brown corners. Climb the left hand corner to an overhang, then instead of going left to easier ground, make in interesting, cramped rail right to a position above GRAVITY DON’T DUST. Continue from here to top.

GRAVITY DON’T DUST 18 ** [R]
Climb delicately up the orange arete to the right of WOW to a pointed overhang. Pull through and continue to top.

ZEALOT ZONE 13 ** [G]
Climb the right hand corner mentioned in WOW, until you can step right onto a ledge. Climb further up face above. Continue up a series of cracks and ledges to top.

PURPLE MOON 8 * [G]
Start 2m to the left of PURPLE SKY, and continue straight up the crack (with a tree in it) to the top, moving right at the tree.

PURPLE SKY 12 *** [PG]
Climb up attractive face 10m up and right of GRAVITY DON’T DUST, keeping strictly to the face all the way up (jug land).

LAND OF SMILES 14 ** [G]
Climb the ridge 3m to the right of PURPLE SKY, starting on the left of the arete on an easy angle slab and finishing on the right hand side of the ridge.

SONG OF SONGS 10 * [G]
To the right of LAND OF SMILES is a deep crack running up a series of ledges. Climb the crack and step left at its top. Exit right.

BYE BYE BLUES 11 ** [PG]
Climb the ridge to the right of SONG OF SONGS on good but far apart jugs to the top.

SONG OF JOY 12 ** [G]
Climb the orange recess with cracks in it on the right of BYE BYE BLUES. This recess has an overhang in it about three quarters of the way up.

ORE 13 ** [G]
On the right hand side of the crag (i.e. 10m to the right and 15m up from SONG OF JOY) is a zig-zag wide crack running through a series of juggy bulges which is slightly undercut at its base. Climb up the crack to the top.

Roadside Attractions Crag
This is the lowest crag near the highway up to Roodepoort. The top of the crag is easily accessible by a short scramble up round to either the left or the right of the crag. The routes are up to 12m long.

DYLAN’S ELIMINATE 18
A girdle traverse of the left-hand portion of the lower level of Strubens. Start on the left at the second bolt on the very first route, and continue at approximately the same height to the very last route on the right. It goes at about 18 in both directions (climbed both ways).
First ascent: Dylan Morgan.

MEADOW LANE 9 * [5B,A]
Follow the left-most line of bolts up the grooves and ledges to where you can reach the lower-offs. A slightly easier variation is found if you deviate 1-2m left after the first bolt.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

EASTERN BYPASS 16 ** [5B,A]
Start up MEADOW LANE to the base of a thin corner groove, straight up the wall to the right. Climb the corner to gain the lower-offs on the left.

First ascent: 1995 Clive Curson.

ROADSIDE RHAPSODY 17 ** [5B,A]
Go up the stepped groove in the slab 5m left of the nose, until the wall steepens at the third bolt. Less strenuous than the routes on the right.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

PANIC ALLEY 21 ** [5B,A]
Start up the short smooth face to the faint crack line 1.5m left of the nose. Can be climbed straight through the bolt line at the crux. If you choose to layback, there may be a temptation to use easier holds far out right. Climb the headwall slab to lower-offs..

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

ROAD WARRIOR 19 *** [5B,A]
The nose route. Experience a steep start past the ex-tree. Don’t hang around too long or gravity will catch up. Go straight up the crack to lower-offs on the right. ‘Legal’ holds can be used just to the right, but if you ignore all of these, the grade is about 21.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

NEW JERSEY TURNPIKE 17 *** [4B,A]
Probably led by various of the Margetts clan in the 80’s. Start 2m right of the root on the nose, following the double crack system to the base of the smaller groove at the top. Climb up this to lower-offs.

Bolted by: 1994 Clive Curson.

HIGHWAY MAN 17 ** [4B,A]
Start about 3m right of the nose. Climb steeply up a spidery crack system to easier ground finishing in the larger groove/recess.

Bolted by: 1994 Clive Curson.

SIDEWALK VENDETTA 18 ** [5B,A]
Climb the shallow recess about 6-7m right of the nose. If it feels a bit hard, try a little technique. Continue up the crack above to lower-offs on a small buttress.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

A DELICATE ONE 18 ** [4B,A]
First top roped by Adele McCann. Go up the orange face, without making use of the major edge to the right.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

THUGGERY 16 ** [4B,A]
Use the break to the right of the orange face to gain the summit, using the same lower-offs as A DELICATE ONE.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

CATWALK 15 ** [4B,A]
Go up the face to the right of the break used by THUGGERY. Pull into the base of the short corner, and climb to the lower-offs on the left, under the tree.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

WALKING THE DOG 14 ** [4B,A]
Go right after the second bolt on CATWALK to lower-offs on the right

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

WESTERN BYPASS 10 ** [3B,A]
Climb the face just to the left of an obvious recess. Use the same lower-offs as WALKING THE DOG.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

BOULEVARD OF WET DREAMS 8 ** [3B,A]
The obvious recess/corner.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

The Politician’s Crag
This crag is the continuation of the lower crag after the short gully to the top. It is visible from the car park. The climbs are up to 8m in height. The top may be accessed via the short gully on the left. There is good shade under trees in front of the crag.

VISIONS OF URBAN GLOOM 5 ** [2B,A]
The easiest sport route in the country/Africa/Southern hemisphere? Almost anyone should be able to lead it even with no previous climbing experience. Climb the face 8m right of the short gully.
Bolted by: Clive Curson.
First ascent: Soloed in the 80’s.

JOBURG BOWSAW MASSACRE 6 ** [2B,A]
If the root looks like becoming a bush again, apply a chainsaw. Climb the face 10m right of the gully past 2 bolts. Same lower-offs as for VOUG.
Bolted by: Clive Curson.
First ascent: ?

INFORMAL SETTLEMENT 7 ** [3B,A]
Start at the large recess/break. After the second bolt climb out right to gin the smooth slab which is followed to lower-offs.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

REDISTRIBUTION 8 ** [3B,A]
Starting at the base of the recess, follow the line of weakness diagonally across under INFORMAL SETTLEMENT’s slab to the crack system to its right. Climb this and use IS’s lower-offs.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

DIRECT REDISTRIBUTION 14 ** [3B,A]
Start 1m right of the large recess and climb REDISTRIBUTION’s crack all the way from the ground using the same bolts.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

FUNNEL OF FUNDS 15 ** [4B,A]
Start a the base of a jam crack 4m right of recess. Climb steeply past the funnel feature, tending slightly right towards the top.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

CASH ON TAP 12 ** [4B,A]
Starting at an ex-tree, climb up the crackline on great holds then move left past the bulge (ignoring the bolt on the right) to join FUNNEL FOR FUNDS at the top.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

COSMIC POLITICIAN 19*** [4B,A]
Takes the smooth bulging orange face with two key horizontal cracks above this bulge. Slightly reach dependant, but a good line all the same.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

FIELDS OF OPPORTUNITY 18 ** [4B,A]
Climb the crack and V-shaped groove right of COSMIC POLITICIAN. Finish at lower-offs either left or right.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

DISTRICT SIX 18 ** [4B,A]
Climb up to the large peapod groove to the bulge. The crux is using a layback move to the right, in the middle of the bolt line. The temptation to stray is great: nice move if you don’t.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

THE POLITICAL ANGLE 17 ** [3B,A]
Teeter up the smooth slab just left of the arete. It gets more positive – eventually. Finish leftwards to the lower-offs on DISTRICT SIX.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

WINDS OF CHANGE 16 ** [3B,A]
Climb the deep crack to the right of the smooth slab to the left of a long, elevated ledge.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

URBAN UNREST 16 *** [3B,A]
The climb starts next to a bushy gully on the left, some 3m left of a whitish nose. There is a crack line through the bulge. Climb the small bulge on large jugs.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

GANG WARFARE 18 ** [3B,A]
Climb the crack on the right of the bulge and 1.5m right of the nose. Move up, then right and up on layback holds.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

CITY SLICKER 19 ** [3B,A]
The route up the smooth, whitish nose. Follow the thin crackline up the nose, without straying too far either way. A tad contrived. Go a little left after the third bolt to the GANG WARFARE lower-offs..

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

HOME BOY 14 ** [4B,A]
Climbs the face to the right of the nose. There are some great incuts on this one. Go slightly right to lower-offs overlooking the large recess.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

HEAVY TRAFFIC 13 ** [4B,A]
Start up the featured arete to the right of a large recess about 4m right of the CITY SLICKER nose. Climb the juggy rock, going left at the top to the lower-offs. Crux is just after the first bolt.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

POLICE BRUTALITY 11 ** [4B,A]
Start at a small jagged block. Climb the face, trending somewhat right at the top to lower-offs.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

NO GO AREA 14 ** [3B,A]
Start below the boltline through a shallow scoop about 1.5m left of the prominent red corner. Climb to lower-offs above.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

URBAN LEGEND 13 *** [4B,A]
Climbs a striking red corner all the way to the top.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

DARK STREETS 12 ** [4B,A]
Between the corner and a dark recess is a vague break through a face with glue-on blocks – right above the tree / roots. Most remaining holds feel solid, but exercise some care. Go left at the top on bug jugs (rather steep).

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

JUDGEMENT DAY 20 ** [4B,A]
Climb the smooth, light-coloured face to the right of the dark crack / recess. Don’t reach past the edge of the face.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

SKYWALKER 14 ** [4B,A]
Start up the excellent left-facing corner just right of the whitish face. The corner flattens out higher up.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

BAD KARMA 19 ** [4B,A]
About 5m right of SKYWALKER is a recess with a deep crack on the left and a ledge on the right. Climb the corner on the right of the recess (using a jam near the top) to lower offs on the arete to the right. Can get a bit muddy and take care of the loose rocks at the top.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

DRUGS AND DEATH 20+ ** [4B,A]
Start 2-3m right of the BAD KARMA recess. Climb the smooth orangey-red wall on good incuts. Tend left towards the arete. Not as easy as it looks, and much harder for midgets.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

STREET PREACHER (Eliminate) 25 ** [4B]
Climb the smooth overhanging face to the right of DRUGS AND DEATH on thin holds. A bolt exists at the top which can be used to top-rope the route.
Note: If you use the grips on the left, the grade drops to 23.
First ascent: 2005 Neil Margetts.

KEEN DUDE 19 *** [4B,A]
Start 4m right of the BAD KARMA recess. Climb past a tree root on a ledge 1.5m up. Climb the crack above to a notch in the roof. Give the scree above a definite miss. Also a little reach dependant.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

KAMAKAZI 22 ** [4B,A]
Start 1m left of THE RED ZONE. Climbs through some dynamic moves to the ledge at mid height. Pull through the overhang above on 2 underclings to the jugs above.
First ascent: 2004 Neil Margetts.

THE RED ZONE 25 ** [4B,A]
Climbs a crackline about 7m right of the BAD KARMA recess into a groove between 2 small buttresses. Start just right of the first bolt. Much harder if the holds left of the arete are not used or if you are vertically challenged. This route and those to the right had seen previous top rope action.
Bolted by: 1995 Clive Curson
First ascent: ?

THE CONFIDENCE REEFER 27 ** [4B,A]
Climbs the bulging buttress just left of STREETFIGHTER, using the first 3 bolts of STREETFIGHTER and one hanger bolt out to the left. Don’t use the crack to the right.
Bolted by: 1995 Clive Curson + 1 new bolt.
First ascent: ?

STREETFIGHTER 21 ** [4B,A]
Climb up the well defined crack with hand-jam to cubby hole. Pull out left onto the smooth buttress at the roof. Watch the rope on sharp edges when lowering-off. Reachy.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

MANIC MONDAY 22 [4B,A]
Start 1.5m right of the STREETFIGHTER crack. Stretch/balance up to a god jug. Pull past the right of the roof to 0.5m to the right, using good technique for maximum brownie points.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

HEAVY DUTY 23 [4B,A]
Start 3m right of STREETFIGHTER. Climb up and left to a well-wedged small flake. Pull the steep finish to clip off a good rail just left of the lower-offs. Without hooking the block to the left the grade goes up somewhat. Short persons may also find this harder.

First ascent: 1994 Clive Curson.

CORNER ROUTE 18 ** [3B,A]
Climb up crack in the corner. Crux is just before the first bolt, which is way up there.

First ascent: Unknown

SERIOUSLY NOW 18 [1B,A]
Climb just right of the corner.

First ascent: 2001 Dylan Morgan.

POWDER PUFF GIRLS 14 [3B, A]
Climbs up a series of small ledges a few meters right of SERIOUSLY NOW.
First ascent: 2004 Neil Margetts.

Far Right

To the right of the main crags, from the car park, a separate crag is clearly visible.

PIXILATED 18 [6B, A]
Takes the vague slightly right-slanting break about 3m left of the large chimney filled with chockstones.

First ascent: 2013-03-21 Peter Speed,Tony Seebregts

HOBBIT WHODUNNIT 17 [6B, A]
Climbs the left side of the white face that leads up to the ledge shared with Akkadis and Legovaan, and continue over the bulge (reachy for hobbits :-)).