The beaches of Porquerolles, France: Secret Seaside

Where is this beach? On the Ile de Porquerolles, off the French Riviera between Marseille and Cannes

Who's it good for? Families

What is there to do? Paddle on the beach, walk, sail

What makes it special? The French state bought most of Porquerolles in the 1970s, meaning that it is protected from over-development

Standing in the shallows, I let my toes sink into the pearl-white sand. Behind me, waves of peacock blue and green gently gather momentum. Facing me is a delicate strip of beach, shaped like a crescent moon: wide at its middle, with soft, tapered tips at each end. Eucalyptus and pines follow the beach’s curves.

The Plage de Notre Dame is one of France's finest.

And that’s it: sea, sand and trees working together beautifully, creating a scene reminiscent of a distant desert island. Yet this beach – the Plage de Notre Dame – is far from remote. Just 20 minutes’ boat trip from Hyères, on France’s Mediterranean coast, Notre Dame dazzles on the north-eastern reach of the Ile de Porquerolles.

One of three islands, collectively known as the Iles d’Hyères, Porquerolles, at just over four miles long and around two miles wide, is intimate in scale. Its beaches are diminutive, too. I paddle the length of Notre Dame in just a few minutes. The fragrance of eucalyptus and pine hangs in the air with nothing to compete against it. There are no beachside shops or cafés pumping cooking smells into the air. Building on the island is tightly regulated, mainly forbidden.

Written records mentioning Porquerolles date back to the third century. Porquerolles’ only village, next to the harbour, was founded in the early 19th century but in 1912 the entire island was bought by a fantastically wealthy adventurer named François Joseph Fournier for his second wife for 1,000,000,010 francs. He planted 450 acres of vines, as well as hundreds of trees; he also built Le Mas du Langoustier hotel (see below). The Belgian writer Georges Simenon was another fan and set two of his novels, Le Cercle des Mahée and My Friend Maigret, there.

Porquerolles’ only village was founded in the early 19th century

In 1971, the French state bought most of Porquerolles, protecting it against urbanisation by granting it national park status and designating it a conservation area during the Eighties. As a result, the island’s landscape resembles the French Riviera of centuries ago: oak forests, olive, fig, juniper and strawberry trees thrive, as do lavender, rosemary, rock rose, myrtle and other Mediterranean flora. Electric green dragonflies add flashes of colour around the island’s creeks and coves. Butterflies find rich sippings in the bountiful supply of nectar. I spot a butter-coloured brimstone floating over lavender bushes at the beach’s edge.

DID YOU KNOW?

“Porquerolles” may derive from “prote”, or “first” in Greek, as it is the largest of three islands

Porquerolles is relatively unknown by the British, but is a favourite with the French, and is busy in the summer and on public holidays. The best months are in late spring, and September and October. Late May sees Porquerolles at its most beautiful. Tender shoots are still green and fresh, blossoms exuberant with new colour. Nature fizzes – just before the burn of the summer sun begins and the fading starts.

I look back at the beach. Turquoise waves break slowly on the pristine shore, making forays onto waiting white sand. The trees, just beyond their reach, sigh in the gentle breeze. I can see why Joseph Fournier thought it would make such a wonderful wedding gift for his bride.

Getting there

TLV-TVM (0033 494 582181; tlv-tvm.com) offers sailings from La Tour Fondue, Hyères, to Porquerolles for €19.50/£15.80 adult return and €17.30/£14 child return. At the harbour, follow the sign to Notre Dame. Journey time is around an hour on foot or around 20 minutes by bicycle. Further information at porquerolles.com and hyeres-tourism.co.uk

Where to stay

Les Mèdes £-££ A three-star hotel, with gardens and sundecks, offering rooms as well self-catering studios and apartments (0033 494 124124; hotel-les-medes.fr; from €86/£70 per night for a two-person studio).

Le Mas du Langoustier £££ One of the key attractions of this four-star hotel is its glorious position, but it also offers well-appointed rooms, a swimming pool and fine al fresco dining – book well in advance (494 583009; langoustier.com; half-board doubles from €303.30/£246).

Plage Notre Dame, Ile des Porquerolles. Photo: Alamy

Where to eat

Le Pelagos £-££ A modern restaurant in the village centre, offering a predominantly tapas-based menu, with friendly staff and outside dining (place d’Armes; 494 583863).

The inside track

It’s a good idea to take a picnic with you from the mainland as prices in the village’s shops are higher and choice is more limited.

You can buy Porquerolles wine at Domaine Perzinsky (494 583432; perzinsky.com; open May-September, 10am-noon and 3pm-6pm), a family-run vineyard, offering bottles of white, rosé and red from about €8/£6.85. From the village, follow the route to the Plage d’Argent. After five minutes’ walk, look for the vineyard’s sign on the left.