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The first step is to determine if it's a spark, fuel, or compression problem. Here's a quick way to find out which of the three is missing. Remove a plug wire, insert a Phillips screwdriver or spare plug piece of bare wire into the plug wire boot and place the end near the engine block (do not hold the plug wire while cranking the engine unless you want a shocking experience). If there's a spark when the engine is cranked, it has ignition. The problem is either fuel or compression. If the engine has an overhead cam with a timing belt, loosen the cover over the timing belt and check the belt. If the belt is okay, the problem is no fuel. Listen for the electric fuel pump in the fuel tank to make a buzzing noise when the ignition is turned on (you may have to open the gas cap to hear it). You won't hear anything if the pump has died. Diagnostics can now be focused on the fuel pump circuit to determine if the pump, relay or wiring is causing the no start. If the relay has voltage but the pump isn't running, you'll probably have to drop the fuel tank to check the wiring connector at the pump. If the problem is no spark, anything in the ignition circuit that creates the spark may be at fault. Use your AutoTap Express DIY to look for an RPM signal from the Crankshaft Position sensor while cranking the engine. A bad Crankshaft Position sensor is a common cause of no starts. The signal from this sensor goes to the PCM or ignition module that switches the ignition coil(s) on and off. If you have an RPM signal, a bad ignition module or PCM may not be switching the coil(s) on and off. Using a voltmeter, check for voltage at the coils with the key on and while cranking the engine. The voltage should be switching on and off. In ignition systems with a single coil and distributor, a bad coil or a cracked distributor cap or rotor can prevent the spark plugs from firing. On multi-coil, distributorless ignition systems and coil-on-plug systems; one coil failure may cause an engine to misfire, but it won't prevent it from starting. What's causing the no-start? All engines require three things to start and run: spark, fuel and compression. If any one of these isn't there, you aren't going anywhere

To avoid confusion, remove and tag the spark plug wires one at a time, for replacement.

The 3.5L (VIN H) engine's unique ignition system has the ignition coils directly over each plug. No spark plug wires are used.If
a coil is replaced on any of the 3.1L, 3.4L or 3.8L engines, it may not
be numbered, as is the factory coil. For this reason it is imperative
that you label all wires before disconnecting any of them. Also, before
removal, compare the current wiring with the accompanying
illustrations. If the current wiring does not match, make notes in your
guide to reflect how your engine is wired.

The firing order for the 3.1L VIN M, 3.4L VIN E, 3.4L VIN X
and 3.5L VIN H engines is 1-2-3-4-5-6. The right bank cylinders are on
the cowl side (rear) of the engine compartment and are numbered 1,3,5,
left bank cylinders on the front side of the vehicle, are numbered
2,4,6.The firing order for the 3.8L VIN K and 3.8L VIN 1 engines
is 1-6-5-4-3-2. Starting at the front of the engine, cylinders in the
left bank are numbered 1,3,5 and cylinders in the right bank are
numbered 2,4,6

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.NOTETwist the spark plug boot one-half turn in order to release the
boot. Pull on the spark plug boot only. Do not pull on the spark plug
wire or the wire could be damaged.

The firing order for the 3.1L VIN M, 3.4L VIN E, 3.4L VIN X and 3.5L
VIN H engines is 1-2-3-4-5-6. The right bank cylinders are on the cowl
side (rear) of the engine compartment and are numbered 1,3,5, left bank
cylinders on the front side of the vehicle, are numbered 2,4,6.

The
firing order for the 3.8L VIN K and 3.8L VIN 1 engines is 1-6-5-4-3-2.
Starting at the front of the engine, cylinders in the left bank are
numbered 1,3,5 and cylinders in the right bank are numbered 2,4,6.