Step 1: Choose your ribsDecide if you want beef, pork, or lamb ribs. Then choose a cut: The meatiest pork ribs are spareribs, which are larger but less tender than baby back ribs. As for beef, short ribs are usually less expensive than pork ribs. Lamb ribs are often sold as Denver ribs and come from the lamb's breast and belly.

Step 2: Remove the membranesRinse the meat, pat it dry with paper towels, and pull off the silvery membrane – also known as silverskin – with your hands.

Step 3: Prepare a rubMix together whatever combination of dry seasonings you like and rub a generous amount of it into the meat with your hands, or use a prepared rub from the market. Then wrap the ribs in plastic and refrigerate them for at least two hours so the rub has time to penetrate the meat.

Step 4: Let the ribs standTake the ribs from the fridge, unwrap them, and let them stand for about 20 minutes before putting them on the grill.

Step 5: Fire up the grillGet the grill ready. Ribs should cook slowly, bone-side down, over low, indirect heat. For a gas grill, preheat on high for 20 minutes, then turn off the middle burners and set the others to low. For charcoal, wait until the coals begin to turn gray and then push them into two piles on either side of the basin and cook the ribs on the center of the grate.

Step 6: CookLet the ribs cook, covered with the vents open, one to two hours for gas grills and two to three hours for charcoal. You'll know they're almost done when the meat begins to separate from the bone. At that point, brush them with barbecue sauce if you like; don't do it earlier or the sugar in the sauce will burn.

Test for doneness by cutting off one rib.

Step 7: Let them restRemove the ribs from the grill, place them on a platter, cover it with foil, and let them rest for 10 minutes before serving. Put out a barbecue sauce for dipping – and lots of napkins!