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The Pea Coat!

Every year since this pattern was released back in 2005, I’ve planned to make this jacket. I’ve bought fabric every single year and the fabric seems to get designated for another project each year. For the life of me, I couldn’t remember why I’d never gotten around to making this. But this year, I was determined to make my pea coat that I’ve wanted for so long.

This is out-of-print Vogue 2873, a design by Michael Kors from his Fall 2004 collection. What I love most about this design is that pea coats are so traditional and timeless and this pattern was no exception.

Pea coats are a wardrobe essential that every well-dressed woman I can think of owns and wears to death. They have the ability to make your ensemble look much more pulled together than otherwise.

For my pea coat, I chose this pattern because it has all of the details that I wanted (i.e. military-inspired epaulets, three row high buttons). I wanted to use a heavy weight, high quality coating fabric so I chose this wool/cashmere (wool 80%/cashmere 20%) fabric from Mood Fabrics’ online site. I can’t tell you how luxurious this fabric feels. Unlike how wool can feel itchy, the cashmere makes it feel like a cuddly blanket you just want to wrap up in.

Here are my jacket “innards”. As you see, I’ve intricately tailored it. I’m not going to go into great depth and description because I’ve blogged extensively in the past on my tailoring techniques. The only thing I really did differently this time was using the machine instead of padstitchng. It tremendously cut down on all of the handstitching. I used a serpentine stitch as seen in Kenneth King’s book. Other steps were taken from my tailoring go-to book — “Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket”

And for a vast amount of info on tailoring a coat or jacket, please check out”The Great Coat Sew-Along” blog. The sew-along is way over, but the information is still there and is invaluable.

The only modification I had to make was adding an inch of length to the body of the pea coat. I was pleasantly surprised at how generously the sleeves are drafted. I couldn’t believe I didn’t have to lengthen them. For the lining, I used black Bemberg rayon from my stash. And my favorite detail of all are the great silver/gold crested shank buttons. They just take to the jacket to next level compared to the ones I see most in ready-to-wear. And I topstitched using heavy-duty thread that wouldn’t get lost in the thick fibers of the fabric.

For my final project of 2012, this is my favorite. I succeeded in making heirloom-quality jacket that I plan to wear for many, many years.

Why did you wait so long? It’s beyond fabulous! And so impressed with your tailoring, thanks for showing the innards…now you need to be on the hunt for Emerald Green cashmere blend for next year’s coat…..so impressed!
Laura