Compact Bamberg is genuine gem

Tourists wait for a very short ferry ride across the Regnitz River.Barbara Selwitz

Mostly undamaged during the Second World War, Bamberg is home to the tomb of Pope Clement II, the only pope buried north of the Alps. Photos: Barbara Selwitz/for the province

Bamberg's City Hall really does sit right in the middle of the Regnitz River.
Bamberg’s extraordinary town hall really does sit right in the middle of the Regnitz River.Barbara Selwitz

Interior of the Basilica of the Vierzehnheiligen, (þÄúFourteen Holy HelpersþÄù).
The Basilica of the Vierzehnheiligen is one of Germany’s most acclaimed buildings. Postmedia NewsBarbara Selwitz

Old Town Bamberg boasts one of Europe’s best-preserved old quarters, including a 14th century town hall.Barbara Selwitz

Bamberg, Germany is not your standard small city.

It boasts one of Europe’s best-preserved old quarters including a 14th century town hall erected by merchants in the middle of a river. It’s also home to the tomb of Pope Clement II, the only pope buried north of the Alps plus some of his amazingly well-preserved 11th century vestments. And, the city’s 78,000 residents vigorously support their Bamberg Symphony, one of Europe’s best. Nearly ten per cent of the population subscribe to concerts performed in an extraordinarily, user-friendly hall.

Mostly undamaged during Second World War, eleven-hundred-year-old Bamberg is a walker’s and photographer’s dream.

Start exploring at the St. Peter and St. George Cathedral, which exists — in part — because tenth century King Heinrich II (973-1024) and his wife Cunigunde couldn’t have children to pray for their souls after they died.

To solve that problem, the king founded the bishopric of Bamberg in 1007, and five years later the church where resident bishops prayed for him arose.

Today, inside the cathedral — the latest of those that succeeded the original — visit Heinrich and Cunigunde’s tombs, that of Pope Clement II, and the intriguing Bamberg Horseman. This stunning statue of a royal rider has spurred centuries of speculation about who he actually was.

Nearby is the Diocesan Museum. There, prize possessions include papal vestments worn by Clement II, including capes and boots, uncovered when the tomb was moved during Second World War to protect it from expected bombings that never came. Also here are other gorgeous medieval textiles including the imperial cloak that belonged to Heinrich II and Cunigunde.

Descending from Bamberg’s ecclesiastical high point (the city boasts seven distinct hills) one soon arrives in its oldest section. Bisected by the River Regnitz, the compact quarter features half-timbered houses, twisty byways, numerous sites to sample local brews, and — most importantly — Bamberg’s extraordinary, mid-river town hall.

Erected between 1386 and 1456, the decision to site it in the middle of the Regnitz was made by Bamberg’s merchants. Since the tanners, weavers, fishermen and other tradesmen wanted to neither buy land nor pay taxes to build on church property, the burghers arranged for pilings to be erected the middle of the river, upon which the town hall was constructed.

Frequently renovated, today, you’ll see a baroque and rococo structure festooned with murals. During the 17th and 18th century, there was a serious push to transform Bamberg’s appearance from medieval (typified by half timbered structures) to a more modern look. Indeed, in 1693 one incentive from Prince Bishop Lothar Franz von Schönborn was that those who built two story stone homes paid no taxes for 20 years. And those who covered their timbered homes with plaster were tax-exempt for seven years.

Fortunately, not everyone took his offer. Today, Bamberg boasts a fascinating group of buildings including 2,000 single dwellings under special UNESCO protection. While baroque structures outnumber all other styles, there is still a healthy representation of buildings still reflecting their medieval heritage.

To appreciate all this, take a walk through the streets. Don’t miss the fishermen’s “Little Venice” quarter with many half-timbered homes; the baroque Bottinger Palace; or renaissance buildings around the Old Court.

You’ll also want to see the gothic church of St. Michael’s monastery, particularly its vaulted ceiling adorned with replications of hundreds of flowers and medicinal plants. And, for a nearby change of pace, drop into the Franconian Brewery Museum. In a city proud of its brews (including Rauchbier, a smoked beer that’s definitely an acquired taste) and brewing heritage, this museum features 1,300 exhibits on beer and beer history.

Other Bamberg appeals include the rose garden in back of the New Residence, and the early home of poet E.T.A. Hoffmann who lived here from 1808-1813. Another must is the contemporary concert hall where the world-famous Bamberg Symphony performs. Do try and attend a concert, particularly if director Jonathan Nott is leading a Gustav Mahler symphony. He’s in the midst of recording all of them for Tudor Records.

Then, for an extraordinary change of pace, take a twenty-minute train ride to Bad Staffelstein, the town nearest of one of Germany’s most acclaimed buildings, the Basilica of the Vierzehnheiligen, (“Fourteen Holy Helpers”). Featuring a gloriously ornate 18th century Rococo interior — the successor to much smaller shrines — believers have long flocked here to worship where a 15th century shepherd encountered one crying child, then fourteen others. Before vanishing, all pleaded that a church be built there.

Today most visitors come to view the statue-laden, stunningly bright white and gold interior, and to hear fabulous organ music. They also pause at a plot of grass, now inside the church, that is said to be exactly where the shepherd had his celestial encounter.

Comments

We encourage all readers to share their views on our articles and blog posts. We are committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion, so we ask you to avoid personal attacks, and please keep your comments relevant and respectful. If you encounter a comment that is abusive, click the "X" in the upper right corner of the comment box to report spam or abuse. We are using Facebook commenting. Visit our FAQ page for more information.

Almost Done!

Postmedia wants to improve your reading experience as well as share the best deals and promotions from our advertisers with you. The information below will be used to optimize the content and make ads across the network more relevant to you. You can always change the information you share with us by editing your profile.

By clicking "Create Account", I hearby grant permission to Postmedia to use my account information to create my account.

I also accept and agree to be bound by Postmedia's Terms and Conditions with respect to my use of the Site and I have read and understand Postmedia's Privacy Statement. I consent to the collection, use, maintenance, and disclosure of my information in accordance with the Postmedia's Privacy Policy.

Postmedia wants to improve your reading experience as well as share the best deals and promotions from our advertisers with you. The information below will be used to optimize the content and make ads across the network more relevant to you. You can always change the information you share with us by editing your profile.

By clicking "Create Account", I hearby grant permission to Postmedia to use my account information to create my account.

I also accept and agree to be bound by Postmedia's Terms and Conditions with respect to my use of the Site and I have read and understand Postmedia's Privacy Statement. I consent to the collection, use, maintenance, and disclosure of my information in accordance with the Postmedia's Privacy Policy.