The Aussie locker is fine. Many of us have had them for years and like them. You already have a nice long spring with the RC 2.5". You will benefit from quality shocks. The RC shocks are awful. If you don't have front disconnects, or better an antirock you aren't using the suspension travel the 2.5" kit you have is capable. You don't need more suspension lift for a 33" tire. You need to add a 1.25" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift. This will, or should allow you to remove any transfer case drop that you may already have. With the 1.25" BL and your 2.5"SL you should require no more bumpstop extension than what you have now requires. You need to understand more lift doesn't mean a more capable suspension, but it does require many other upgrades when you hit that 3.5"-4" mark.

if I don't have a tcase drop now, then I should still go this route? I do have disconnects, and I'm picking up that locker up tomorrow.

You already have a nice long spring with the RC 2.5"...You will benefit from quality shocks...If you don't have front disconnects, or better an antirock you aren't using the suspension travel the 2.5" kit you have is capable...You need to add a 1.25" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift. This will, or should allow you to remove any transfer case drop that you may already have. With the 1.25" BL and your 2.5"SL you should require no more bumpstop extension than what you have now requires.

You need to understand more lift doesn't mean a more capable suspension, but it does require many other upgrades when you hit that 3.5"-4" mark.

I did edit rda616's post a bit in the quote above, but this is all really good advice. I forgot the OP mentioned the RC 2.5" lift. The BL and MML with the 2.5 should be plenty for 33's. Spend the remainder of your money on the best shocks you can afford (and the right length), and I think you'll be set. The Aussie may be fine, but I would still invest in suspension as a priority.

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I did edit rda616's post a bit in the quote above, but this is all really good advice. I forgot the OP mentioned the RC 2.5" lift. The BL and MML with the 2.5 should be plenty for 33's. Spend the remainder of your money on the best shocks you can afford (and the right length), and I think you'll be set. The Aussie may be fine, but I would still invest in suspension as a priority.

You should buy shocks by extended and collapsed length and not by advertised lift size.

This! Meaning you will want to remove your shocks and cycle your suspension to see full compression and extended lengths. The adjustable Ranchos are well regarded, come in a variety of lengths, and are reasonably priced. There are better shocks, but Rancho gives you a big bang for the buck, IMHO.

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Maybe we have overlooked a few things here. There are a variety of Rough Country lifts available. Are you still using your stock control arms, or is your lift just longer springs and shocks? This is the priority I would set. If you have any of the following items, don't replace them. Build on the things you already have.[*]Good Springs[*]Great shocks[*]Currie Antirock or sway bar disconnects[*]Flexy and adjustable control arms[*]Adjustable track bars

yea I need some control arms and I planned on get the track bar soon. What brand should I go on the control arms? RC alright?

Yes rough country sells an adjustable control arm. They have come a long way with quality in last 2 years. With that said...and I hate to hi jack this thread but could others smarter than me explain why one would spend the extra money for adjustable upper control arms?

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf."

...could others smarter than me explain why one would spend the extra money for adjustable upper control arms?

If you have to choose adjustable, it's more important to choose the uppers. Adjustable rear uppers adjust pinion angle to compensate for lift either for a standard driveshaft or double cardan style. Adjustable front uppers adjust for driveshaft angle and also caster angle. The lower arms shouldn't need to be adjusted much from stock length in most cases.

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If you have to choose adjustable, it's more important to choose the uppers. Adjustable rear uppers adjust pinion angle to compensate for lift either for a standard driveshaft or double cardan style. Adjustable front uppers adjust for driveshaft angle and also caster angle. The lower arms shouldn't need to be adjusted much from stock length in most cases.

I'm probably gonna go with the RC brand, mainly because I get a discount through them. 699.95 for the whole set

If you have to choose adjustable, it's more important to choose the uppers. Adjustable rear uppers adjust pinion angle to compensate for lift either for a standard driveshaft or double cardan style. Adjustable front uppers adjust for driveshaft angle and also caster angle. The lower arms shouldn't need to be adjusted much from stock length in most cases.

Both upper and lower axle control arms come into play when changing chassie lift and drivetrain. The front upper control arms may not need to be addressed in most cases with 4" and lower lifts.
Keeping the wheels centered in the wheel wells is important for clearance when articulating the suspension... HTH