Well maybe I am missing something here. The article you pointed me to was for an ODB 2 engine into an ODB1 car. My setup is the opposite.

Here is what I have found. Using a multi-meter I connect A17 to the negative lead and the positive lead to +12V IGN. I then race down the highway hitting red line every time. The multi-meter always reads 0 Volts. I then try A17 as the positive lead and ground out the negative lead... this as well reads 0 volts down the highway.

I have read a few other posts that say the IAB is the A26 wire not the A17 wire. My Chilton's manual I bought for the Acura Integra, legend and Vigor is no help.

So I guess the question is what pin is the IAB?

Because it does not appear to be A17. I thought I might be having a problem with my ECU so I bought another one, this time a USDM not the JDM, same result.

i have the same setup like you do. i'm not sure if i hook it up right, but this is what i did: pink/blue to A26 and black to ground. it seems to run fine, but if i'm wrong, then please correct me. plus, i have a question for you; do you know what i'll have to do to the 3 pin connector for the IAC? you know who the obd2 dx motor have a 2 pin and a 3pin, right. but the obd1 b18c only have the 2 pin connector. what did you do to your? thats the only problem i'm having right now. with the 3 pin connector being disconnected, the check light comes on. i check the code, and its code 14 (which is for the IAC). please help if you know. thanks.

Originally posted by gsrjennie@Sep 25 2004, 10:14 PMi have the same setup like you do. i'm not sure if i hook it up right, but this is what i did: pink/blue to A26 and black to ground. it seems to run fine, but if i'm wrong, then please correct me. plus, i have a question for you; do you know what i'll have to do to the 3 pin connector for the IAC? you know who the obd2 dx motor have a 2 pin and a 3pin, right. but the obd1 b18c only have the 2 pin connector. what did you do to your? thats the only problem i'm having right now. with the 3 pin connector being disconnected, the check light comes on. i check the code, and its code 14 (which is for the IAC). please help if you know. thanks.

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IACV, you will need the 2 wire plug off the original wiring harness. It should have a green/black and a black wire. Attach the yellow/black wire from the 3 wire connector to the green/black wire on the 2 wire plug. Attach the black/blue wire on the 3 wire connector to the black wire on the 2 wire connector. Now just ignore the orange wire.

If you have the same ODB versions as me I think you to have the IAB wired wrong. Try hooking a multi-meter positive lead to the A26 wire on your ECU and then ground out the negative lead. Take your car down the highway and let me know if the multi-meter ever reads 12 volts.

If you have the same ODB versions as me I think you to have the IAB wired wrong. Try hooking a multi-meter positive lead to the A26 wire on your ECU and then ground out the negative lead. Take your car down the highway and let me know if the multi-meter ever reads 12 volts.

Thanks.

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My hook up seems to run fine. i ask a couple of friends, and they said thats how they did there's, like mine. i guess its ok, cuz i'm keeping up with HB swap too.

If you have the same ODB versions as me I think you to have the IAB wired wrong. Try hooking a multi-meter positive lead to the A26 wire on your ECU and then ground out the negative lead. Take your car down the highway and let me know if the multi-meter ever reads 12 volts.

Thanks.

[post=394898]Quoted post[/post]​

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My hook up seems to run fine. i ask a couple of friends, and they said thats how they did there's, like mine. i guess its ok, cuz i'm keeping up with HB swap too.

For the IAB you will need to move A20 to A17. Since you will be using the OBD2 engine harness and an OBD1 GS-R ECU you will need to cut the black wire at the IAB plug and give it a 12V switched source. You can get this from the yel/blk wire at the injectors or the IACV.

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that says that you should put black to 12volt const. I bet if you were to test it with a multimeter you would find that your setup doesn't work. The IAB is not required just gives you more HP at high RPM and more torque at low RPM

If you have the same ODB versions as me I think you to have the IAB wired wrong. Try hooking a multi-meter positive lead to the A26 wire on your ECU and then ground out the negative lead. Take your car down the highway and let me know if the multi-meter ever reads 12 volts.

Thanks.

[post=394898]Quoted post[/post]​

Click to expand...

My hook up seems to run fine. i ask a couple of friends, and they said thats how they did there's, like mine. i guess its ok, cuz i'm keeping up with HB swap too.

For the IAB you will need to move A20 to A17. Since you will be using the OBD2 engine harness and an OBD1 GS-R ECU you will need to cut the black wire at the IAB plug and give it a 12V switched source. You can get this from the yel/blk wire at the injectors or the IACV.

Click to expand...

that says that you should put black to 12volt const. I bet if you were to test it with a multimeter you would find that your setup doesn't work. The IAB is not required just gives you more HP at high RPM and more torque at low RPM

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i don't know, but i think its the other way around. the way he is talking about, its for the setup of 0bd2 into a obd1 car, our is the other way around. plus, i'm using the skunk2 jumper harness, and a upgrade P28 ecu. ok, i'm getting really confuse now. i hate all this obd crap. why didn't honda just stick to one same thing. sign, o'well, i'll test it tomorrow. thanks