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Feb 24, 2015Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting Inc.

Palladio High Intensity Herbal Lip Balm promises “the ease of a pencil that applies like a balm and wears like a lipstick.” This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims substantiation.

Jan 29, 2015Frank C. Pagano, PhD, ACT Solutions Corp.

This article reviews the technologies behind gel nails and recent trends in them. The underlying photochemistry of monomers, oligomers and photoinitiators also is discussed, to give the reader a better understanding of the performance and challenges associated with gel nails.

Jan 29, 2015Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

This collection of articles is focused on key technical challenges in developing color products; for example, formulating to improve pigment dispersion and shade-matching in lipstick. Research on progressive steps toward comfortable wear and transfer-resistance in makeup is described, as well as improvements in the durability, color and drying time of gel nails.

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Jan 26, 2015BASF

People are accustomed to seeing things that are crisp, clean, colorful and beautiful. Chione HD (High Definition) pigments from BASF bring the same degree of high-definition performance to the world of cosmetics.

Jan 15, 2015Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting Inc.

BareMinerals launched Complexion Rescue Tinted Hydrating Gel Cream as “The best of a BB, a CC, and a tinted moisturizer...with a 215% increase in skin hydration after just one week. This column will review the ingredient listing for claims substantiation.

Jan 12, 2015

Lip glosses combine the properties of color cosmetics and lip balm to offer high shine, lip enhancement and pleasantness, accompanied by protection and soothing benefits. To offer these properties, lip glosses must incorporate a complex blend of oils, waxes, thickeners and tackifiers. Various modern technologies allow the formulator to assemble sensorially enchanting lip glosses.

Obtaining the desired feel and performance in a formula has been greatly simplified by the evolution of silicone chemistry. Silicones have been popular cosmetic ingredients for decades, and have led to innovative textures in skin care and makeup. Though they began as basic linear polymer systems, technologies have evolved to develop various forms from these main backbones.

Lipstick is formulated with pigments for the obvious reason of color, but formulators always face the same technical difficulties of pigment dispersion and final shade matching. The present article explores solving these two lipstick dilemmas with an amphiphilic copolymer to improve pigment dispersion and texture of lipsticks.

Powder cosmetic products (both pressed and loose) include foundations, eye shadows, primers, blushes, bronzers and all-over shimmer powders. Though the raw materials used in them often are similar, the processing, texture, packaging, applicators and application, along with color development, vary for each type. These variations are described here.

Mar 31, 2014

Feb 18, 2014Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting Inc.

I used to think that scented nail polish was created for “tweens,” but not anymore with the launch of Revlon's Parfumerie Scented Nail Enamel, available in 24 scented shades. This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims substantiation.

Jan 24, 2014Arthur Georgalas, Georgalas Endeavors

The chromophores that generate appealing colors in nature can also function as natural colorants in cosmetics. Here, some specific natural colors are reviewed. In order to apply them, however, formulators must be aware of the commercially available materials and know which are allowed under local regulations; such restrictions also are described.

Cheek stains and blushes are intended for a lightly shaded color that is well-blended. Such formulations must provide a transparent hue as well as exhibit wear-resistance. Here, these requirements are described, as are formula approaches and commercial examples. In relation, recent research has mostly aimed at increasing the permanence of pigments on skin; such new ingredients are discussed.

This article reviews several of the latest nail polish trends including nail strips, textures, crackle, magnetic, breathable and color-changing effects. Also discussed are the underlying technologies and raw materials that produce these unique nail effects.

Jan 14, 2014Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting

L'Oréal Paris claims to have invented the “perfect nail polish” with Extraordinaire Gel-Lacquer 1-2-3 that delivers the long-lasting (up to 14 days!) manicure effects of a UV-gel manicure without the “harmful” UV rays or salon appointments.

Jan 7, 2014

Philosophy Supernatural Airbrushed Canvas SPF 15 features “convertible” pigments that offer “buildable” coverage from light to heavy. Available in three shades, the foundation claims “to conceal, camouflage and protect” in an oil-free, talc-free and fragrance- free formula.

Dec 5, 2013

Serving as a symbol of growth, renewal and prosperity, Pantone hue Radiant Orchid—a mix of fuchsia, purple and pink—has been named 2014's color of the year. In beauty applications, Radiant Orchid is a modern and surprisingly versatile shade—it enlivens the skin, making all who wear it feel more healthy and energetic. Blending both cool and warm undertones, purple is an appealing hue for distinctive combinations and flattering to many hair, eye and skin tones.

Dec 4, 2013

One of the first mainstream temporary hair colors to come to market is the Bumble and Bumble's spraychalk. This product is a “wild, quick-dry tinted hairspray for a splash of color and style” that comes in various colors. This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality.

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