First of all, what is PHMB if you have not heard of it? PHMB is polyhexamenthylene biguanide (what!). This ingredient can be found in many popular products in the U.S. but has been banned in other countries (similar to hydroquinone).

PHMB is a synthetic polymer used as a broad-spectrum preservative and antimicrobial agent. It can be found in skin care products, cosmetics, eye-care solutions, wound and surgery care products.

Why is it harmful?

PHMB is reported to have carcinogenic properties that may affect the reproductive system (Oh my!). The Scientific Committee on Safety reported PHMB is unsafe when used in a concentration higher than 0.3% in a product. The European Union banned this ingredient labeling it as a Category 2 carcinogenic agent as far back as 2015.

If you are concerned about which product has this ingredient, the following is a list of popular products that still have the ingredient in its formulation:

*The manufacturers of these products have informed The Danish Consumer Council THINK Chemicals that either they no longer using PHMB, that there is a mistake on the label, or they have withdrawn the product from stores.

For many, hair removal plays a significant role in their beauty regime. During cancer treatment or recovery, however, hair removal presents many challenges. The immune system and skin are severely impacted which leaves the skin in a fragile state. Many techniques used in hair removal is performed with friction or heat which can cause trauma or tear the skin which can lead to infections. It is important for a skin care therapist to be informed of any cancer-related treatments before considering hair removal (before, during and after).

Speak with your oncologist before surgery regarding safe methods of hair removal, especially if surgery will be in an area covered with hair. Waxing may cause irritation, rashes or sores on the skin.

During Chemotherapy

Depending on the type and amount of chemotherapy received, not everyone will lose hair. There may be thinning or even partial hair loss.

Hair removal treatments are not recommended due to the possibility of upsetting an already compromised immune system.

Waxing may be painful at this time. Skin tissue can become dry, thin, bruise, tear easily, and cause inflammation. Waxing may also disturb melanin production which can lead to hyperpigmentation or loss of pigment.

Shaving is a great concern because it can cause irritation or nick the skin. Shaving can also lead to folliculitis (infection of the hair follicle). During chemotherapy, a client may not be receptive to certain fragrances in shaving cream and this, too, may cause irritation. Depilatories should not be used.

Tweezing is relatively safe but remember to use a sterile instrument and do not break the skin.

During Radiation

Hair loss does not usually occur or if it does, it may be localized. The hair loss can be temporary or permanent depending on the amount of radiation received and the number of sessions. When hair regrows, it may be thinner and of a different texture.

Some individuals may develop fibrosis (excess fibrous connective tissue) which may enable hair to grow resulting in the death of the hair follicle.

Waxing is ill-advised. A person may experience neuropathic pain and their threshold to pain may be intensified making waxing extremely painful. Nerve endings on some individuals are more sensitive while others experience a loss of sensation.

Shaving may be done using an electric razor in the area of localized hair growth. Depilatories may be used as long as it does not irritate the skin.

L’Oréal has announced they have purchased three skin care lines from Valeant. Valeant is a Canadian cosmetic company located in Quebec but has its headquarters in New Jersey.

Valeant manufactures CeraVe, Ambi, and Acne Free. CeraVe products include cleansers, moisturizers, sunscreen, healing ointment, and baby products. Acne Free is a line for acne-prone skin and includes wipes, masks, body spray, spot treatment and a facial brush system. Ambi, which Valeant purchased from Johnson & Johnson in 2012, includes cleansers, face cream, body soap, and body lotion which are marketed to multicultural consumers. Valeant has also sold its cancer treatment business, Dendreon, to Sanpower. The sale of these assets is to relieve financial burden for Valeant.

CeraVe has been marketed to professionals and physicians whereas Ambi and Acne Free can be purchased at wholesale clubs (Sam’s, Costco and BJs) and drugstores. L’Oréal markets their cosmetics to department stores, wholesale clubs, and drugstores. This could hurt professionals and physicians if the CeraVe line becomes available through the same outlets.

Coty is getting into multi-level marketing by acquiring 60% of Younique. Younique is a cosmetics company whose platform is direct sales and multilevel marketing of beauty products online and through social media. Younique has 200,000+ independent sales reps.

Mary Kay has created an app to promote their products and support their sales representatives. The app acts as a virtual assistant and allows a shopper to make mobile transactions. Mary Kay also has two other apps: Mary Kay Virtual Makeover and Mary Kay eCatalog. The virtual makeover app includes scenery, accessories, virtual hairstyling, beauty mirrors, and tutorials.

Have you awaken from a hangover and you went “YIKES” when you saw yourself in the mirror? Alcohol not only plays havoc with your skin but also takes a toll on the body. Consuming alcohol dehydrates the body by acting as a diuretic. It makes you go to the bathroom more by forcing water from the body and also prevents the body from re-absorbing fluids. Mixed drinks contain large amounts of salt and sugar which contributes to bloating and puffy eyes.

Studies have shown there is no correlation between consuming alcohol and the body’s inability to metabolize and absorb glucose or having lower levels of electrolytes. An article in Scientific American explains the following happens in the body: After a person starts consuming an alcoholic drink, the liver begins its work using an enzyme called alcohol dehydrogenase (ADH). ADH metabolizes the ethanol in alcoholic drinks into acetaldehyde, which is reported to be 10 to 30 times more toxic than the alcohol itself”.

The flushing, sweating, vomiting and nausea one experiences from a hangover is an even bigger concern because consuming alcohol could elevate the risk of skin cancer. The intake of 12.8 grams of alcohol could increase the risk of skin cancer up to 22%. Alcohol dilates blood vessels in the skin which causes blood to rush to the skin and is a trigger for Rosacea flare up. Alcohol consumption also depletes the levels of Vitamin A in the body. Vitamin A is an antioxidant that helps with cellular turnover and fights free radicals.

If you want to enjoy a drink out with friends, after dinner or at the beach, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

Drink plenty of water before consuming alcoholic beverages. Green tea also works wonders because they help to prohibit the metabolism of alcohol. You can also drink Sprite or 7-Up before going out because they contain taurine which might help to minimize a hangover.

To revive your skin the day after, gently exfoliate the skin to remove dead surface cells that can make your skin look dull and apply a hydrating moisturizer.

You may come in dragging after drinking all evening, but sleep on elevated pillows to drain excess fluid and reduce puffiness to the face. Cleanse the face with lukewarm water. Hot water will cause more redness and deplete the skin of moisture. If you get a chance, place tea bags over the eyes. The tannins and caffeine from tea helps to constrict blood vessels, reduce swelling and draws water away from eye tissue.

If you do drink, vodka is better than dark liquors or red wine which contains resveratrol.

Eat while you consume alcohol because it will help slow the release of sugar.

Alternate drinking water with alcohol to lessen the effect of a hangover and it will help keep the body hydrated.

The FDA has released an updated consumer report on skin care and anti-aging products imported or for global travelers who ship product to the U.S. for personal use or to resell. They announced a direct link to mercury poisoning with these products. There were no specific skin care lines or brand names mentioned in the release. The FDA did say, however, “The products are usually marketed as skin lighteners and anti-aging treatments that remove age spots, freckles, blemishes or wrinkles as well as acne treatments for adolescents”. The products are being sold illegally in the U.S. and mostly found in shops that cater to the Latino, Asian, African or Middle Eastern communities.

Even though some of these products are marketed as cosmetics, they may be unapproved drugs. Ingredients to be on the lookout for are: mercurous chloride, calomel, mercuric or mercurio. These ingredients can pass the placental barrier and cause harm to the fetus or infant. Be overly cautious of product labels that are missing or not in English. Products manufactured in the countries listed above are not a part of the International Nomenclature of Ingredients (INCI). Countries who are members of INCI use the same chemical terms for all ingredients used in products so they are recognized worldwide. Also beware of products you purchase via apps, Craig’s List or eBay.

SC Johnson is one of many companies that are on the bandwagon to become transparent about the ingredients in their products. SC Johnson is the maker of Glade products (room sprays, scented oil refills and wax melts refills).

When you look at their product labels, it is like reading a chemistry book. In an effort to be transparent, SC Johnson wants consumers to understand what the fragrance ingredients are (chemical and natural). They even have a link on their website so you can see the list of ingredients, but if you don’t have a background in product formulation, chemistry or aromatherapy, you still don’t know what those terms mean.

One thing I found very confusing in the article was that they described their Glade Fresh Citrus Blossom collection as having ingredients that are “crafted from 100 percent disclosed fragrance components, contains “nature-inspired’ ingredients”, and most are “nature-identical”. Excuse me, but is that double talk? How can a fragrance be nature-identical? Either it is from nature or it isn’t. Nature-identical to me brings up images of fragrances that are restructured and created in a laboratory (that’s not natural to me). Well, so much for transparency!

A study by researchers at University of California Berkeley, California Department of Public Health and Clinica de Salud del Valle de Salinas has revealed the following cosmetic chemicals can be harmful to teens: phthalates, parabens, triclosan and oxybenzone. All of these chemicals are known endocrine disruptors. Teens are at significant risk because this is the period of rapid reproductive development (especially for girls). Teenage girls can use as many as 12 products per day that contain these chemicals, boys use somewhat less.

These chemical are found in sunscreens, soaps, hair products and perfume. They have a huge impact on the endocrine system that produces hormones. The hormones can regulate development, reproduction, metabolism, as well as the three major systems in the body – cardiovascular, immune and neurological functions.

The study was performed on 100 girls aged 14 to 19. They used toiletries that did not contain the above-mentioned ingredients. After just three days of using the replacement products, the chemical levels of those ingredients in their bodies dropped significantly – (diethyl phthalate 27%, triclosan 36%, oxybenzone 36%, methylparaben 44% and propylparaben 45%). What could happen to girls if they continue to use products with these chemicals? A continuous buildup of the chemicals in the body could be passed on to the fetus when they become pregnant.

Cosmetic companies and organizations such as Proctor & Gamble, L’Oréal, Revlon, Johnson & Johnson, the Environmental Working Group, Personal Care Products Council, the March of Dimes and many more are meeting before legislators in support of a bill for companies to disclose ingredients. They want to push for disclosure of ingredients found in fragrances as well as to ban ingredients that are deemed to be hazardous. It will be interesting to see how fast this will happen.

A new concern that has surfaced is whether laser hair removal causes cancer. It is known that x-rays and gamma rays (forms of ionizing radiation) are the most dangerous. They both come from natural sources like radon gas, but they can also be manmade and used for CT scans. When ionizing radiation passes through the body it can damage cellular DNA that could lead to cancer.

The FDA says that IPL used in hair removal uses non-ionizing radiation. The light emitted remains in the skin so the heat destroys only the hair follicle and does not cause DNA damage. The light does not penetrate beyond the hair follicle so internal organs are not affected.

There is still concern, however, when IPL is used near reproductive organs. Gynecologists at Mt. Sinai in New York states there is risk to reproductive organs that may cause cancer or infertility.

L’Oréal is getting ready to launch a skin patch designed to analyze UV radiation on the skin. It is the first smart patch of its kind that will be introduced at the 2016 Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas. The patch will be launched first in Europe, being made available for free in France as the firm compiles research data on its effectiveness.

An earlier patch was created, but it was rigid and non-transparent that only analyzed UV radiation for one hour. The new patch will be ultra-thin and will measure sun exposure for a longer period of time with more precision. The patch is a printed electronic circuit on a flexible film that is disposable.

The patch contains a photosensitive blue dye that changes color when exposed to ultraviolet light. The color change will let the wearer know that an application of sunscreen is needed or to take appropriate measures to protect the skin. (I thought that is what the brain is for!)

The patch will also be linked to an app by LaRoche-Posay called “My UV Patch”. Once a photo is uploaded, the app can measure both instant and cumulative doses of ultraviolet rays (several hours or days).

Physicians in the UK are using Botox for breast enhancement (ouch)! With the rise in breast cancer, why would you inject a form of botulism into your breast tissue?

Celebrities are now opting for Botox breast enhancement (Breastox) over surgical augmentation. This is a 30-minute procedure with no downtime and is relatively painless. The effects are temporary and lasts approximately 6 months. The appearance is perkier, fuller looking breasts, smooth cleavage that can make breasts look up to a cup size fuller. The procedure is designed for women with A-C cup size.

Breastox has not been approved by the FDA for use in the U.S. The cost of the procedure is approximately $1,500.

If injecting boobs with Botox is not enough, how about enhancing the breast with gummy bears? Well not quite gummy bears, but a new generation of breast augmentation now uses a firmer form of silicone gel the bounces back to its original shape, much like gummy bears. The silicone gel is so thick that when an implant is cut in half, it does not pour out but retains it shape compared to the original silicone gel which was a more viscous, squishier gel poured into a circular shell.

This new silicone formulation helps to make the breast maintain a more natural-looking shape. Early studies are showing that there is a decrease in silicone bleeding (or leaking) and may last longer. The downside, however, is there is a potential for implant rotation, in which the thicker bottom can lead to a distorted breast shape (Doft, 2015).