OK i run last weekends to my local track but not happy either my Tekno 410.3 better to drive than SCTE 2.0. Anyway I didn't change anything set up from the previous owner i will change diff oil, also shock oil very soft. Previous owner said the shock pistons is m2c delrin but seems to soft with shock oil. Any recommendations shock oil for m2c delrin piston?

I would try the kit setup and tweak from there. You never quite know what you are getting when you buy used. I recommend resetting and trying it from there.

OK i run last weekends to my local track but not happy either my Tekno 410.3 better to drive than SCTE 2.0. Anyway I didn't change anything set up from the previous owner i will change diff oil, also shock oil very soft. Previous owner said the shock pistons is m2c delrin but seems to soft with shock oil. Any recommendations shock oil for m2c delrin piston?

You should do what Casper is saying. It's true that you can't really chase behind another's setup or generally improve from its base very easily.
As for the shock pistons, anything outside of stock TLR pistons nearly and universally fail to pack in those 2.0 12mm shocks.
I tested a set custom made just for me from VRP and used a set as low as 2 hole 1.2 pistons and still had to run my weight upto 40-50 weight depending on springs just to get them to pack similar to standard SCTE #4 pistons.
The SCTE pistons where .5mm thicker than most after market pistons as well. This significantly helps with side wall flex and changes the port flow volume that must effect pack more than you'd think. I messed with this ordeal so much I eventually just said the heck with it and had to go back to #3-#4 , or #2-#3 stock pistons on stock blue front/orange back springs before things became normalized again. Your best best is to just get the 22 shock if you want to play with different pistons and or gain a consistent tune.
Pick up the whole shock spring tuning kit as well.

Got to play with my new to me 2.0 a little. Donkey kicked bad first time out with it. Brought it home and put it back to almost kit setup and took out all drag brake. It still kicks, but manageable with some throttle.

Turn in on this thing is horrible, though. I dropped to 5k front and center trying to free it up, but, still doesn't want to dive in like I'm accustomed to driving. If I use a lot of throttle and drift through, it's okay, but that's just not as consistent as I like. Maybe I just need more wheel time and fine tuning.

Interesting. Will this work with the parts we have now? Or do we need the 3.0 steering rack?

You will notice how I grooved the arm toward the inner side that would contact the servo mount. I also trimmed a little off the servo mount as well to get 100% clearance. About 5 minutes of dremel or file work and turning over the servo and bell-crank arm is all it is.

You will notice how I grooved the arm toward the inner side that would contact the servo mount. I also trimmed a little off the servo mount as well to get 100% clearance. About 5 minutes of dremel or file work and turning over the servo and bell-crank arm is all it is.

Awesome, i think i'm gonna try it out. Have you noticed much difference in steering throw or anything?

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1