Finally re-installed my rebuilt OBA system. Wired to a carling switch on my console. Same setup basically as last time, just a cleaner setup with a commercial aluminum manifold instead of my homemade one. Also added a relay to the output of the pressure switch to increase longevity. 3 gallon stainless air tank (1000psi burst pressure) now mounted high behind the tire carrier instead of under the truck.

Well first off, saw the crowd at the Overland Expo. Lots of fun meeting everybody. I had just done the steering ball joint and the front tie rod end. Piece of cake, they just had aged, cracked boots, not totally worn corroded POS's, good time to do them. So then, next morning did the track rod tie rod ends, again, piece of cake. Moving further south, attacked the ball joint on the rear axel/suspension triangle. It looked nasty, with almost no boot left. Not a piece of cake to get out. First the castelated nut (30mm) wouldn't budge, no matter what trick I used. So it got split with the ziz wheel and finally succumbed to be removed. Next the two bolts holding the mount needed breaker bar action to get to move, the nuts came off easy enough, but the bots took hours of Kroil and twisting before I could pound them out, a process that first off is over your head in a tight space, then allows all kinds of pulverized bits of raccoon crap to filter into your eyes. I get it out, finally, and now the real fun begins, getting the forking ball joint itself to come out of the mount. 20 minutes with a sledgehammer and a spacer did the trick.

Getting the new and old to mate was not too bad. So after cleaning up all the bolts and the mount I proceed to put it all back together. Well the triangle bolts together easily now, all cleaned up. But the axel has shifted a bit during all the violence and various animal crap shedding into my eyes. The ball joint does not want to penetrate! This kind of situation is precisely why I own two hydraulic jacks. Got it all lined up and it mated. What a pain in the ass! I felt as if I had been laying railroad tracks in the 1850's and looked it too. All in the name of do it now before it starts to get bad. All this fun for under $100.

I highly recommend buying the A arm ball joint already installed in the block. Then when you get the old one out you can work on it at your leisure, or toss it depending on your level of ambition/frustration.

I highly recommend buying the A arm ball joint already installed in the block. Then when you get the old one out you can work on it at your leisure, or toss it depending on your level of ambition/frustration.

Good plan if you can separate the arms from the block.

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Mike Hammond
Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.

Finally made progress on the swap today. New timing belt done....oil pan/pick up cleaned...front cover cleaned, polished and clear coated...same with fuel lines...bought all new ss washers and lock washers for assembly...oh...and the Serpta is sitting on a pallet....finally!

Getting ready for summer time!!!
Cleaned MAF
Oil change
Topped of tranny/xfer/and diffs
Replaced brake and clutch fluid
Replace a coolant hoses
Drained and refilled coolant.
I also added some brass bling to the engine bay with new coolant fill plugs.
Years ago I added a coolant drain to the bottom radiator hose. It makes changing coolant so much easier!

Cheers...

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LR3 sidesteps with rocker panels for sale $400

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