Alright folks, seems like we have quite a few "my car won't start" threads and I haven't been able to pinpoint another issue quite like mine....so here goes.

99 S70 T5 - I go to start my car on Friday night it suddenly wouldn't run. The car would start up without a problem, then quickly sputter out (2-4 seconds). Try the car again, same result. Removed key, reinserted key and again had the same problem. I started Googling some possible scenarios and all signs pointed to an Immobolizer failure (Antenna Ring replacement). Today, I get the new ring from DW Volvo in Franklin and install the part. No dice, same exact result. Now, I can mash on the throttle when it starts up, but that only buys me an additional second at best. The battery appears OK and it seems to be getting juice from the alternator. The battery is 3+ years old though, but I've had batteries die and this isn't the same type situation.

I have not seen any warning lights come on, although I haven't ran for codes since I do not own a scanner. The car is stuck in a parking garage until at least Tuesday night. Is there anything else I can try to get the car running? I'm not exactly mechanically inclined, but can poke around and have little fear in removing parts on the car. Pretty sure I have removed every screw on the front dash in the last 2 years.

I have a pretty solid mechanic in the Nashville area, but always like to get some direction from MVS before handing it over.

David,I'm also in the Nashville area. If the antenna ring is functioning you should not see any flashing alarm light on the dash.

The coil on plug ignition can fail but rarely all coils at once so we are down to compression and fuel.

I doubt your compression magically went away all at once so we have fuel and ignition triggering.

If your fuel pump relay is gone then put in a replacement and be on your way. If the pump doesn't power up then it needs a check for power and replacement .

If the entire fuel system is working you have to see why it would fire and fail from the ignition side. This normally comes down to the cam sensor.

Lurking in the background is the MAF.

Does the car give any codes? Can you hear the fuel pump power up when you turn the key to position 2 (II)??When was your last fuel filter change???Any problems other than this before it finally refused to start??

JDS60R wrote:David,I'm also in the Nashville area. If the antenna ring is functioning you should not see any flashing alarm light on the dash.

The coil on plug ignition can fail but rarely all coils at once so we are down to compression and fuel.

I doubt your compression magically went away all at once so we have fuel and ignition triggering.

If your fuel pump relay is gone then put in a replacement and be on your way. If the pump doesn't power up then it needs a check for power and replacement .

If the entire fuel system is working you have to see why it would fire and fail from the ignition side. This normally comes down to the cam sensor.

Lurking in the background is the MAF.

Does the car give any codes? Can you hear the fuel pump power up when you turn the key to position 2 (II)??When was your last fuel filter change???Any problems other than this before it finally refused to start??

I don't recall seeing anything on the dash after replacing the antenna ring, but I still have the car apart and can switch the old one back in, if needed.

I didn't think to check the fuel pump, but I can do that. Unsure of last fuel filter change, but would suspect it was maybe a year ago? Had the engine basically rebuilt and it has performed great until now, and I don't think this is engine related. No other major problems, although I did see some posts about MAFs going bad. I figured the antenna ring was a cheap possible fix, so was worth a shot before getting the car towed to a shop. I might give the fuel pump relay a shot as well, I have some time before it needs to be towed.

Little update on this: Today I removed the plug going into the MAF and got the same result. I tried to listen to the fuel pump while the key was in position II, but it was hard because I'm stuck in a parking garage with fans and such running.

When I tried starting it up, the car would turn over once and then sputter out. Trying the car again within a few seconds didn't get a full turnover. If I removed the key, waited a few minutes and then tried, the car would turn over and then sputter out.

I tried looking for the fuel relay, but didn't see anything with a 103 in the main fuse box. Another thing I noticed was a high pitched noise when I had the key turned over into the 2 position. The noise was coming from the engine, but I couldn't pinpoint the area it was coming from. Kinda faint, but audible once I listened for it specifically.

I guess the fuel pump relay, fuel filter and ETM are still up for research. JRL: My ETM is one of the white lable versions, it has been acting up for a while even though I had the software upgrade.

Tried the paper clip trick, no dice. The clip was warm after trying the car, but I still got the turnover and then die. Since the clip was warm, that leads me to believe the fuse source is good and giving spark.

I'm just getting it towed to Snider Automotive, tired of making trips across town to only be dissapointed.

Thanks for all of the help, I was able to test 3 diffent methods, so I'll pass that info to my mechanic.