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Located on the eastern coast of the Baltic Sea, Estonia has a coastline of 3700 meters. Surprisingly, the Baltic is not very salty and rather shallow, so it is warmer than you would expect. I’m not saying its bath water warm, but it’s not Lake Superior cold.

We traveled from Helsinki to Tallinn by boat in about an hour and a half. During the Cold War with Finland so close, the Soviet Union zealously guarded its western coast and Estonia became heavily militarized under communist rule. They were afraid people would defect. Also, large parts of the country were off-limits to all but the Soviet military.

With Finland so close, most of the sea shore was declared a “border zone” meaning they were heavily fortified and citizens were prohibited from entering the water. They monitored the sand to see if there was tracks headed out that did not return. Most beaches were forbidden for Estonians. No one could even travel to the beach on a summer day for some fresh air, non-residents required a permit to visit them.

Our guide told us that under communism this beach had barbed wire, concrete block observation posts (which must have been freezing in winter), other armaments and patrols. Today, they are hugely popular in the summer. Cool young Estonians and families flock to them to swim, play, cook out, camp, and watch the sunset.

It probably didn’t help that the Soviets had one of their three nuclear submarine training facilities not far from there in the city of Paldiski. Its nuclear reactors functioned continuously for twenty years. In addition to the nuclear submarine training center (complete with a full-scale model of a nuclear submarine with working nuclear reactors), it was a support base for the Soviet Baltic Fleet‘s submarines and several other large military bases. A former sailor on a submarine said “I’ve seen the whole world, just not above the water.”

The Soviet Union brought hundreds of thousands of Russian migrants to Estonia to assist with their militarization. This forced migration resulted in an increase of about half a million people in 45 years! The Soviets built Soviet-style buildings apartment buildings for them. The styles are nicknamed after the Premier in power at the time of construction. Apparently you want to live in a Stalin or a Khrushchev and not a Chernenko or a Gorbachev (they were actually General Secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party and/or President of the Soviet Union, not Premier), because the quality of the building materials degenerated. By the end, it was pretty shoddy. Once our guide pointed it out, it was easy to see the difference and tell when they were built by their state of decay.

The Soviet Union brought hundreds of thousands of Russian migrants to Estonia to assist with their militarization. This forced migration resulted in an increase of about half a million people in 45 years! The Soviets built Soviet-style buildings apartment buildings for them. The styles are nicknamed after the Premier in power at the time of construction. Apparently you want to live in a Stalin or a Khrushchev and not a Chernenko or a Gorbachev (they were actually General Secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party and/or President of the Soviet Union, not Premier), because the quality of the building materials degenerated. By the end, it was pretty shoddy. Once our guide pointed it out, it was easy to see the difference and tell when they were built by their state of decay.

After the end of the “Cold War” the facilities passed to Estonian control in 1994 after the last Russian troops left the country. These Russian Immigrants were given the choice of returning to Moscow or remaining. Many chose to remain in their apartment blocks in former military towns; they’d spent most of their lives there and didn’t want to leave their home. As a result, today there are pockets of people who haven’t integrated into Estonian society, don’t speak Estonian and don’t have employment as the bases closed. Ethnic tensions linger and it is a significant problem for Estonia.

We saw some pretty cool sights in Estonia outside of Tallinn. The Soviet’s had large air base in Estonia. Between the base and the cluster of buildings that formed the town servicing it, a cemetery is located back in the woods. It’s obvious that they are the graves of airmen.

A large majority of the graves were unmarked. Our guide hadn’t figured out why. There is some ethnic tension between Estonians and the Russians who were moved here by the Soviet Union to towns where Soviet military facilities were located. After Estonian independence, many of these Russians stayed but have not integrated. Did they have plaques on them that widows took with them when they returned to Russia after the Cold War? Were the names and dates so secret that they were intentionally unmarked? Did the missions not “officially” exist? I had a lot of questions that our fantastic guide couldn’t answer. He hadn’t found any ethnic Russians who would talk with him about it. I joked about going door to door. He told me if they wouldn’t talk to an Estonian, they sure as heck weren’t going to talk to an American.

At one point, Switzerland had 15,000 hidden fortresses protecting roads, railways, and mountain passes. We see evidence of them hidden everywhere. On hikes, we regularly see doors in the sides of mountains, fake stonework, etc. in the middle of nowhere. Knowing that they likely concealing something for the military, we stay well away.

Did you spot the camouflaged door?

Most forts were shut after the end of the Cold War. This was the result of a change in strategy, not a lack of belief in the importance their objective (to remain independent and neutral). Switzerland decided that if it was invaded, it would probably be for use as a supply line as it has virtually no natural resources. It’s a sound premise, that’s how Hitler and Mussolini used it during WWII.

To counter this, The Swiss military has wired the country’s extensive infrastructure of roads and bridges to blow. In fact, they have over 3000 points of demolition! Its mountain tunnels will be sealed from within to act as nuclear-proof air raid shelters, or blow up too. In the side of mountains, airstrips are built in with camouflaged doors. They let everyone know about their plan in the event of a foreign invasion. It’s a pretty cost-effective deterrence strategy.

Although Swiss armed forces have a purely defensive role, military service is still compulsory (Women can volunteer for most units). Heck, with a plan like that you need more than just a couple of people around who have practiced how to blow their country up.

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Schwingen in Switzerland

Schwingen, also known as Swiss wrestling, is one of Switzerland’s national sports. Join us as we learn about Schwingen, chocolate and everything else Swiss as American expats in Geneva. This blog chronicles our adjustment to our new lives abroad, our wonderful experiences and our continued efforts not make complete idiots of ourselves. To make the most of our adventure, we often travel in and outside of Switzerland. We also try to experience as much local culture as possible.