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Mar 11, 2013

Holy Mother of Taffeta!
Do you believe this is what Marc Jacobs did with the exact same fabric I'm making my jacket-and-shorts set out of? I mean, how over-the-top is this dress? The model on the other hand... I know I'm the last person to talk, but is this a guy? She makes Cathy look like Jayne Mansfield.

Might I suggest a redder lipstick, Morticia?

Here's the dress again on a somewhat fleshier model (that's a joke, folks).

This dress is from Marc Jacobs' 2010 Fall RTW collection. I think what
looks like fringe is actually selvage, since it's the exact same color and weight -- sort of a brassy brown -- though longer than the selvage on my bolt.
I'm not sure how I feel about this dress. It's a
little glum and you don't really see the daisies. I wonder how many sold.

In other news, readers, if there's one thing I have very little tolerance for it's drama; I try to avoid it at all costs. Yet there's something about drama that can be very exciting and perhaps even engaging to an audience. I want you to know that if, in the days ahead, I come across as anxious and somewhat breathless, it's because I am anxious and somewhat breathless. It's not an act. So, apologies.

Moving right along, using the single welt pocket pieces off a Burda coat I made a few years ago, I practiced making a single welt pocket yesterday. It came out pretty well, though I think I'll try at least once more before cutting into my taffeta.

This morning I purchased a new zipper, an Excella (which is also part of YKK, who knew?). I had it shortened for an additional $1, so the total was $12. The plastic one was $4. Hopefully it will look good on the jacket, since it will be exposed.

Finally, I got two yards of an acid yellow nylon for (possible) lining. For some reason it is impossible to capture accurately in a photo. It's much closer to French's mustard than to the muted yellow it looks like here. It's not a great color for me, but for lining, I think it's the perfect shade and weight.

Finally, is this TMI? I have absolutely fallen in love with my 1940's French yoked boxers, so much so that I have rinsed them out twice by hand and worn them five out of the last seven days. The only downside is that I now must iron my underwear.

In closing, friends, a few questions:

1) Do you like my upgraded zipper?

2) Should I line my jacket with that Italian nylon (which means my pocket bags will be covered and the jacket will be a little heavier)?

55 comments:

Yes to the zipper! I habitually remove zippers from ready-to-wear stuff I'm cutting up because notions are the hardest thing to replicate. (Obviously in a big city you can get this stuff, but not here in Nowheresville, Ontario.)

The zipper is great, and I like the lining, too (that's the fabric we saw upstairs at Mood, yes?). A lined jacket just seems cleaner to me, although I don't doubt that you could find an elegant way to finish off an unlined jacket. The ballgown doesn't do much for me, but it's fun to see it and note how differently the fabric spoke to you and Marc Jacobs (but I really can't believe that dress was RTW!).

Sounds worth it for the zipper... and if you love 'em that much, make more. Heck, buy cotton/poly batiste in lots of colors and make them in all the colors of the rainbow! (Then they'll require less ironing. And in my experience, the blend batiste is much nicer than sheets and such. And it's not too expensive, either.)

Daisies are usually a cheerful looking flower, but that daisy fabric is really kinda gloomy... i think the new zipper and yellow lining are perfect for it! They will bring out the warm tones in the fabric. Nay on the dress. It's nice to hear you like your boxers--maybe you can revive interest in that style!

I was also wondering if that model is part of this new trend toward men walking as women in runway shows (is there nothing your gender can let us have?!). I kind of like how the pattern becomes muted in that gown. But I also think it will look great in your jacket. Hang in there! I know it's going to be amazing!

Apropos of your post, I want a copy of that boxer pattern (in a larger size, sadly) in the worst way but every site I happen across has just sold it, it seems. I will persevere.

And apropos of a long-gone post (which I remembered only because of the little pop-up windows reminding one of long-gone posts) on your recommendation, I purchased one of the special water-filled pillows. Neck tension greatly improved; I absolutely love it, and thank you!

1. Yes 2. Yes 3. I need to see the dress on someone else before I could say for sure. Maybe it would look good on someone curvier, like Catherine Zeta Jones, Kate Winslet, or Penelope Cruz. I'm not a fan of the exposed selvage, though, if that's what it is.

The upgraded zipper is an improvement and you will be much happier with how it looks. Also, it is much more robust and better able to take the use it will get as a jacket zipper.

I like how the nylon will look, and I think you will find the results more aesthetically pleasing. One word of warning--the nylon doesn't breathe well and can get sweaty. A very fine poly-cotton broadcloth in a similar shade might be better.

As for the ballgown, when I looked at it, I thought is was more the dress was wearing the model than the model was wearing the dress. And yes, the first model was rather mannish in appearance. The gown might be better in person than in the photograph, but good Lord it needs SOMETHING to make it pop. IMHO, Marc Jacobs wasted a lot of details such as ruching on a fabric that was so dark and in such a busy print that they can't be appreciated.

1. Zipper color functional.2. Lining color tolerable, which means use if if it pleases you because no other opinions should count. 3. Marc Jacobs gown is cringe-worthy. Ugly mess, no matter who is wearing it.

Well now I feel a lot better about the zippers I stock - everything you guys buy over in hte US seems so cheap, but $12 for a zipper is about the same as we have to charge for the glorious metal ones with scmantzy pullers over here, so I am happy!I love that you love your french knickers ;-)And I think the model looks like Carol Burnett doing 'that face' where she sucks her cheeks in and widens her eyes - remember the famous Scarlett O'Hara scene? Dress is hidjus. Your jacket is delightful xo

Wow, I think you almost made that gown by just wrapping and bunching your fabric up here and there. That seems to be what MJ did. That dress is God awful. And what's with the gloves? Looks like He / She dipped His / Her arms in some toxic substance. Blech. Anyway, yes to the new zipper and a lining. Can't wait to see the whole ensemble.

Ha ha You knew it had to happen I Love The Dress! Yes that first model definitely is a man, anyway Cathy is much prettier Love the heavier Zip,. Line the jacket with taffeta, it deserves it. Thanks for the laughs Peter

Yes to zip.Yes to lining-How fun! Watch out Kenneth K. may want to "borrow" it.Nay to Jacob's gown. Too much texture on texture. Muddied the print.How about a late 40's, or New Look inspired spring frock for Cathy out of the taffeta?

Naturally I like your jacket way more than that dress, and it's so much more useful, but my takeaway here is just amazement at the different things people can do with the same fabric (or pattern, or whatever). This is why I love sewing :) About the jacket - I don't think you can go wrong, but I do like both the new zipper and that lining color quite a lot!

Yes to zipper. Yes to cheerful yellow lining. What is up with that dress??? I think the draping would have been much better in a solid fabric, and the print would have been much better off as a dress with simple, unbroken lines to show off the print...or as a jacket.

The first model, he or she, had too many teeth removed. Strange looking dress, isn't it? I make most of my blouses from soft (often quilting) rather than crisp cottons and they rarely need ironing. They do not look starched and pressed, but they look smooth as the fabric looked on the bolt. A dryer helps, or a breezy day on the clothesline which, I realize, is not an option in a NYC apartment. If the item must be hung over the tub, it helps to shake it now and then while it dries. But mainly a softer fabric is your best bet and comfy too.

There's a market for RTW ballgowns? I guess I just don't understand high fashion. All I know that is those models look angry. Hostile. I'm pretty sure I'd have that same look on my face if I dropped my money on an impractical dress that looks that awful. A jacket where you can see the pattern is a much better choice. ...and I think your pockets will be great. Welt pockets in coats are much easier than bound buttonholes.

That fabric looks like daisies in the rain and seems meant to be rain wear-- jacket/coat/etc. but as a ball gown, it contrasts weight making the very thin models look cadaverous. Yes to the zipper! Yes to the lining (or a grey lining, but definitely lined) and no, thanks! to the ball gown.

The new zip definitely looks more solid and professional. Well done to invest in a good one. About your lining, though, I'm a little concerned: will nylon breathe? It's no fun to be zipped into a jacket on a damp day and feel all overheated. Now that dress: it's not my thing, but I do appreciate the way the selvage is incorporated into the design.

The dress is hideous. I hope you make more boxers for yourself. Try a pair in oxford cloth. Washes beautiful and no ironing needed. I use it for pajama bottoms for my husband. Of course, I bought the oxford cloth a few years ago and you might not be able to find it in actual fabric stores. (SIGH)

Yes to the zzzipper - needed something heavier duty for a jacket for a man.

Yes to the mustard lining, but others are noting the unbreathable factor?

No to the dress.

Models in the past often had their back teeth removed, especially the upper ones so that the bone in that area would shrink and make the cheek bones more prominent. I would have thought that barbaric practice was no longer in fashion, but appearances dictate otherwise for Morticia.

If she/he is a man-where is the Adam's apple?

Your jacket will look fabulous in that fabric. Can't wait to see it completed. Breathe and chill in the process....

The model you featured is Jamie Bouchert, a top FEMALE model & friend of mine. She naturally looks like this and has a very distinct look( think Cher or Anjelica Houston in the 70's) that is in high demand. I think it is very unkind to discuss someone's looks in a negative light, especially on a blog that is probably perused by those in the fashion industry. It comes across as very juvenile and petty. I've enjoyed reading your blog for some time but was extremely disappointed with these snarky comments. I expect more from you... you seem very open minded and accepting of beauties of all sorts. We can't all look like Miss America

a boy, a dream, and 10+ sewing machines

I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!