Thursday, 30 March 2017

What have Brewdog ever stood for

I saw some tweet, from a friend, which said ‘what did Brewdog ever stand for’, in light of some legal stuff (which you can read elsewhere), and I thought of the piece I included in a book that Roger Protz and I wrote for CAMRA in 2015, and which we both suggested/demanded should include BrewDog. I wrote it and Roger was happy with it and in light of all the stuff about punks not being punks (I was a punk and dropped it like a hot coal when everyone and their mother became one — it was not about mohicans but more about an attitude, I learnt more about situationism and structuralism through punk than anything else and never passed into the fancy dress stage, which owed more to 19th century dandyism than anything else), here it is before it was edited. Despite the dreadful Raspberry Smoothie IPA and knocking over the furniture in the PR showroom of self-righteousness I still think they do a good job (as do Adnams, Fullers, Hook Norton, Camden etc etc etc).

BrewDog’s brewery is a cavernous, cathedral-like brewing
hall with its steel ribs reaching out and holding up the sky; it’s a lively
animated space on brewing day as rock music plays and brewers mull about,
clambering up steel ladders to check brewing vessels and ducking beneath metal
pipes through which beer flows. Outside sit the fermenting vessels, silvery,
towering cylinders that receive more hops as the beer sleeps, through something
called a hop cannon. This feels like a brewery committed to the future.

However, there’s one thing missing. BrewDog don’t make cask
beer, they stopped making it in 2011. They did make some very good cask beers
such as 5AM Saint, Paradox and, yes, even Punk IPA, but that was then this is
now. Their beers are either in bottle or what is called, for want of a better
word, craft keg. Go to any of the brewery’s bars in Bristol, Sheffield and
across London and you won’t find a hand pull (but you will find friendly bar
staff who are exceptionally knowledgeable about beer, but it won’t be cask).
The brewery has also a fractious relationship with CAMRA, to say the
least.

Yet, BrewDog cannot be ignored. Their craft keg might not be
cask but it’s neither the tinny-tasting, strained keg of the past, which had as
much a relationship with flavour as processed cheese has with the Slow Food
movement. BrewDog is also seen by many drinkers as one of the most significant
and — yes — exciting developments in the world of beer for many years, and that
would probably include a fair amount of CAMRA members.

Important? For a start, without them we probably wouldn’t
have had the likes of Magic Rock (whose High Wire could be seen as a tribute to
Punk IPA), The Kernel and Wild Beer. For better or worse they have been an
inspiration. BrewDog has brought many young men and women to beer and, in a
similar way the Sex Pistols broke out of the punk ghetto, they have also
transcended the beer bubble. They have been heard of by people who rarely drink
beer, a recognition factor many breweries would love. Your mum has probably
heard of them.

Even though it’s not cask, BrewDog brew some good beers. A
bottle of Punk IPA has a pungent and arousing nose of ripe peach and apricot
skin; lychee, papaya and mango trips off the tongue, while there’s a gentle
touch on the elbow of white pepper in the dry and grainy finish. Meanwhile Jack
Hammer is a big beast of a strong IPA with its bitter finish clanging away like
an alarm bell and the even stronger (9.2%) Hardcore IPA has an intense swagger
of grapefruit, blue cheese and pine cones on the nose while in the mouth it is
fulsome with a concentration of sweet grapefruit alongside a resiny hoppiness —
this is a beer able to hold its head high against anything the likes of Stone
can produce.

Yes they can be wearisome. There have been the
controversies: by and by the world of beer is a relatively cordial one but some
of BrewDog’s comments on the nature of British brewing not only upturned the
apple cart but starting throwing the fruit about. This is something that James
Watt acknowledged when I met him up the north of Scotland, where the brewery
have their home, early on in 2014: ‘there are things we wouldn’t do now.’

That was then, this is now and who knows, there might be
things they will do in the future: such
as brewing cask, because if you cast your mind back several years they brewed
some excellent cask beer.