Announcements

it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums.
Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member.
There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one.
If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance.
The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.

Hello forum! This is a quick guide in how to fit footwell LED lights in a ford fiesta, mine is the Mk6 (Mk6.5) zetec but I cannot imagine there being too much difference in design between different fiestas.
Firstly please see my other guide for how to fit them in the boot to find out the equipment you will need, for this I used 4 LED strips. Also a huge thanks to everyone who has helped in the threads to help me learn how to do this and also to jeebowhite!
http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/44660-fitting-leds-in-the-boot-example-on-mk-65/#entry268352
I will be connecting these to the light above your head, I call this the map light, so that when the doors open they come on and they can be over-riden when you but the map light on they will also come on.
Firstly pop your map light out, as the light is not designed to allow new connections to it there is not a simple wire we can connect to, so we will make our own. Strip some insulation of the wire and simply wrap it around the two points in the picture. Note do not do this until last, I am just showing you now so you understand how it will work!
Red is posi and black neg.
So to begin get a length of speaker cable, which you should have left over from the previous LED installation and cut it to size, I recommend cutting it to the length of your car which should allow some extra slack should you ever want to add new LED's on.
Then remove your glovebox and peel away the rubber from the passenger side door bit, you can fully remove one section and leave the top section hanging, see pic.
To save removing the plastic pillars, which I have heard is a pain, we will use the roof to hide the wire and then thread it through the gaps in the pillar to come out at the footwell. To start with post the wire through the map light hole straight out to the windscreen, you can see on the pic where I mean
Then you will have this, post the wire through so that there is enough wire left to reach where the current light is:
So that only this much wire is left:
From this just tuck the wire up into the roof bit as you bring it along to the passenger side pillar, this way it will be concealed.
Now you have it to the pillar you will see a small gap in the pillar, push the wire through here so it is like this:
Then pull all of the wire through and make sure the rest of it is tucked up in the roof and that there is still enough wire to reach the map light.
You should be left with this:
From this look in the pillar for a small gap, then just post the wire down through the gap and it should come out here:
Then you can see another gap from where it is now to the footwell, and post it through. Put the rubber seal back on as this will keep the wire concealed and you should have the wire out in the footwell!
Once it is through I recommend tucking it behind the wires from the fusebox, this will keep it hidden and make it blend in a bit more! Now make sure the wire works, so get your LED and a crimp butt- dont seal it just make sure they are touching and then switch the light on, you should get light! Also try the door activation to turn them on:
Right now you do not have to fit the handbrake lights, but if so you will need to unscrew the top of the handbrake, remove the gaitor and pull the fascia off around the handbrake, it just pulls of. You will also need to remove the plastic fascia in the footwell, there is simply 1 screw to remove and then pull it towards you as there are 2 clips holding it in place, the screw is here:
Now to power lights in the drivers side you will need another piece of speaker wire, so cut another length and if you wish to do the handbrake light too cut another length, again roughly work it out- always go bigger than you need!
Then poke the new piece of cable through to the drivers side, avoid the heater vents by tucking it under them and then through to the other side- you will need to remove the panel from the drivers side too.
To do the handbrake lights you will need to feed a piece of wire to the handbrake, use the gearstick gap to see what you are doing and make the wire be as much out of the way as possible.
Feed it all the way through to the end of the handbrake, you will notice a slight dip at the end, this is what we will use to feed the wires out.
Once it is fed through make sure the cable reaches where I have shown in the pic and the rest is pushed down in the gap on the passenger side.
Next up we need to connect the handbrake cable (that you have just fed through), the cable going through to the drivers side and an LED for the passenger footwell.
So crimp butt, I used yellow for this, crimp the wire that you have fed from the map light down the pillar to these three wires, on the LED blue is posi and clear is neg.
So you want to twist together the posi and neg from the two wires +led into one wire and crimp this to the wire you have threaded down from the map light.
Crimp it tight and make sure it doesn't come lose. Next crimp ends to the handbrake light:
Then crimp two led strips to this, again make the neg go together and the pos go together. Test they work. Once you have done this you can stick them in place, I replaced the handbrake plastic fascia bit first and then stuck the lights on, one on the drivers & one on the passenger sides:
Then stick your gearstick back on and again test the light, by testing as you go you can work out why they aren't working after you do something!
Now we need to crimp the drivers side led strip on, again fairly simple by now:
Once you have done this reattach the drivers side plastic fascia, ensuring enough cable is left to attach the LED's to where you want- I chose the very thin plastic bit where the computer reader plugs in, you should be able to hide all the red and black cable as the LED's tend to have a long cable:
Test again, as you can see on mine they are hidden:
Next up reattach the passenger side fascia, making sure enough cable is there and all wires are hidden, I stuck my passenger side to the bit of plastic that you can see below the glovebox. Test again and then stick your glovebox back.
Now as far as the lights go you are done, when you touch the connectors to the place shown on the first picture they should light up, now all that is left is to connect it to the map light.
Strip some of the wire and wrap it around the two connectors, I found using a very small flat head screwdriver was useful to manipulate the wire, once it is around lasso it around itself and make sure it is tight. I taped the wire to the light so that it reduced the tension on the connection:
Check the connection and you are done! I put some insulation tape around the connection because I thought it would help!
Enjoy your LED's!
Any questions I will do my best to help!

Hello! This is me trying to explain how I fitted LED's in my boot. The total price was £28.13, but you will be left with plenty of supplies to do this again, you will have loads of crimp butts, cable and a tool. So any future jobs will only require the LED's (£6.60). First things you will need are the actual LED's, for mine I used 4 but you could use less or more, the ones I used are from ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280883250558?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 They come in 30cm strips with sticky backs, ideal for this. Next you will need wire, speaker wire I am told is the best and for mine I used this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280770616549?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 You won't need 20M, but it works up about the same price- plus you have spare to do the footwells! To connect the wires and the LED's you will need crimp butts and a crimper, again crimps I used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260725022046?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Think I used 6 in total, but for the price I can't complain. Then for the crimping tool, I bought this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271001503085?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 It has a wire cutter too which you will need and is a very good product. Once you have all the equipment you can begin! I will try and describe what I did and then supply photos, basically we will be using the live and negative from the factory fitted light to power our neons. In order to get to the wiring of the light you have to undo 3 screws, then pull the plastic away- it won't come fully away but you don't need it to, just wiggle it! Once you have access to the light wiring, which is quite simply the two wires going into the bulb, you need to cut them both- try and cut it so you leave enough wiring each side, the middle is best. Then strip the ends of the wire you have just cut IE remove the insulation. To test which wire is negative and positive just put the end of the neon wiring to one wire, on the neons the wire with blue on is positive, the other is negative- for the speaker wiring that I have linked to it is red for positive and black negative. Once you have worked out which is positive and which is negative it is time to wire it up! Get the end of the light that you have just cut and twist the ends around the speaker wire, for example wrap the red speaker wire around the positive wire from the bulb (pos and pos), then the black with the negative wire from the bulb.Then you need to crimp it so they dont budge, basically put one end in the crimp and crush the crimp with the tool, make sure it is tight. Once this is done re attach the other side with the negative and positive that the light was originally connected to and you have done the hardest bit! After this I roughly worked out how much wire I would need to get to the boot latch knob bit and cut the wire, then I pushed it behind the plastic fascia bits in the boot and it came out behind this metal beam next to the latch. As you did with the crimping before, you will now need to crimp the neons with the speaker wire, I used three here so get 3 neons, strip the wire and wrap the positive of each (blueish) with the positive of a fresh piece of speaker wire (red) and then crimp this in one end of a slightly bigger crimp( I used a blue crimp), do the same with the neg (clear on neon and black speaker wire). Then simply connect the crimp with the wire you have put down behind the fascia and they should work! The fresh piece of speaker wire you have wired I used for the final neon, again over estimate how much wire you will need and cut and strip it, then try and thread it through the metal bit so it is hidden. Once it is near where you want it crimp the last neon to it, posi to posi, neg to ned and you are done! I sat in my boot to do this as they are not actually on when the boot is closed, then opened it as I went along to test it. Once they are all working simple peel the back of and stick it where you want them in the car. Find your light and remove the parcel shelf, I also pushed the seats down to make life easier. Pull the cover off the light and remove the light from the plastic cover thing. Here are the three screws you need to undo, then simply pull it towards you and it should come lose. I couldnt get the side nearest the rear chairs to come off but you don't need it to, you should be able to get to the light now and the wiring. This may look complicated but it is not. The speaker wire is red and black, but black wont show up so I put it in red and white. This is where I pushed the wire behind.The yellow square is the crimp and the yellow wires coming from it are the neon wires. at the far one I have done the neon wiring in red and white for some reason. Tuck the wiring up in the metal frame and under the plastic to keep it hidden. Here you can see the metal frame thing I am on about, the wires sit nicely hidden in here and this is what you post the wires down to get them across one side to the other. I know this isn't the best but hopefully it gives you an idea of how to do it! Any questions feel free and I will see if I can help!

UPDATE- I removed the stock light and cut a whole just big enough for the camera I ordered, I then melted the plastic around it so it became one piece (also had to trim the camera) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330659894130?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 I believe that is the one I ordered. Anyway now my camera is all fitted :) for some reaso it wouldnt work on my head unit so i ordered a separate screen. I have since got replies from sellers and I have been told the nearest fit to my car is this camera- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260900427232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 So for anyone with the same car as mine it might be easier to order this one and see how well it fits! Thanks guys

Hello, I have a new stereo which has a screen on and reversing camera input (yellow wire). I have a camera, it is fairly straight forward- yellow video wire which goes to this video in and a power wire which goes to a red and black. I hooked it up to the reversing wires but it just said no signal or no input when I put the source on to AV, which is what it is meant to be I think. I also have another camera that I ordered but it was too big, I tried this one too thinking it could be a dud camera but this said the same. I then hooked it up to my LED wiring, so that I know the wiring is fine, again no signal or no input. Surely it has to be faulty video wire or something wrong on the head unit, but I cannot see it being these! What else could it be? Thanks!

Hello, a friend of mine has like a camera facing forward that records what happens in front of him, it's for peace of mind in the event of an accident. A few questions, what one is a good one? Where does the data get stored too? How does it know when the car is on? Thanks!

The pads are just for cushioning, the screws go on the stereo like in the video. Fed up of it already, had it working in my hands, gone to put it in and now its not working- maybe a fuse! Its got loads of wires at the back and I can't fit it in properly.

So I ordered an after market stereo, but I have two issues! 1- the connections dont fit the new one 2- the stereo is too small! I think a wiring loop is what I need and a cage.. I'm not sure though! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160676947467?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Would this do the jobs I need? Here are some pictures!

Just pull it out. Best to do if you climb over back seats as the stock one does get very hot! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251063116612?var=550133890392&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Take your pick of colour!