The light—gray and northern and surprisingly abundant—pours between tall, slender towers that look so new they might not even be built yet. The buildings cluster in elegant forests along the water's edge; at their feet sit the vibrant, brick-lined neighborhoods of Gastown, Yaletown, and the West End. To walk through Vancouver—and make no mistake, this is one of the great walking cities of North America—is to travel continuously between old and new.

The old isn't terribly old in Vancouver: The city's history, at any rate its European history, is fairly brief. The Spanish came first; the English didn't show up until the late 18th century. During the next hundred years, trappers, miners, and loggers—the holy trinity of Northwest pioneer life—settled on the land and incorporated the city.

Over the last three decades, Vancouver has grown from a bit of a backwater to a favored destination for moneyed newcomers from all over Canada—and the world. Some credit the Expo '86 World's Fair with putting Vancouver on the map. The handover of Hong Kong from the British to the Chinese in 1997 sped things up, as wealthy Hong Kong nationals looked for somewhere new to live and found in Vancouver a Pacific Rim city with temperate weather, excellent schools, and room to grow.

By any account, Vancouver is growing fast. In terms of city planning, it appears to be uniquely graceful growth. The beauty and elegance of Vancouver's downtown can be traced to one simple thing: setbacks. Yes, there are the spectacular mountain views, the balmy sea breezes coming in from all sides of the peninsula, the cosmopolitan mix of cultures, and the food, always the food. But it's a humble building regulation, introduced in the 1950s and sustained through a major construction boom in the 1990s and the 2000s, that gives this compact, dense city its sense of spaciousness. New high-rise residences in the city core must be built with an apron of space at street level. Gardens and playgrounds and café seating and little lawns spread over these open spaces, making sidewalks feel uncrowded and welcoming. More important, the setbacks decrease the footprint of the buildings, giving them a narrow and light appearance and leaving wide corridors of space (and views) between the structures. Here in the Northwest, where gray skies can grow oppressive and rain can feel like an omnipresent hat that you'd really like to remove, these setbacks do something very important: They let the light in.

While Vancouver's buildings have space at their feet, they in no way resemble the modernist ideal of a glass box standing in a field. These towers are linked by mews and paths and pedestrian alleyways, luring walkers from the street into the built environment.

And it's good to be lured into walking in Vancouver. If you have an especially excellent pair of shoes, you could spend the whole day looping the city—from Gastown and its bars and design shops, down the shopping promenade of Robson Street to the funky, beachy West End. Stanley Park, with its complex ecology and incredible beaches, lies beyond. Head back up along the waterfront, lined with well-funded and intelligent public art (we are, after all, in Canada), and into Yaletown, a redeveloped industrial district that strikes the perfect Vancouver balance between the past (Hamilton Street and its gritty brick façades) and the present (the towers and marinas and parks at the water's edge).

Walking in the evening is almost as lively as walking during the day—Vancouver is a nocturnal creature. Says food writer Nancy Leson, "Unlike a lot of West Coast cities, Vancouver's downtown doesn't roll up the sidewalks at night. There's a huge concentration of people downtown, and that's by design. People are out shopping, eating, and drinking until all hours because they live there."

Chinatown, just east of downtown proper, is emerging as a nighttime star. Like the rest of Vancouver, the neighborhood encompasses two worlds: It's both a traditional, working Chinatown and a newly happening (though occasionally sketchy) nightlife destination. These two poles are reflected at the Keefer, the suites Hollywood types use as a home away from home when they're shooting in Vancouver; it also serves as a hotel for us lesser mortals. Housed in a repurposed industrial building, the three suites and penthouse at the Keefer are as spare and chic as lofts and are filled with colorful installations by artist/clothing designer/Generation X author Douglas Coupland. Says Keefer general manager Maria Verdicchio, "Chinatown isn't for the bridge-and-tunnel crowd. It's for people who want an authentic experience." Though it must be said this is very luxurious authenticity. (For more authenticity, take a trip to the nearby exurb Richmond, where Chinese-language malls abound.) The Keefer's bar, modeled on a vintage Chinese apothecary and serving charmingly medicinal drinks, is worth a visit too.

If all this walking is making your feet sore just reading about it, you can achieve the same windswept vistas sitting comfortably on a boat. Ridiculously cute passenger ferries crisscross False Creek, affording great views of downtown. Use them to explore Granville Island, one of the most popular destinations for tourists, crowded with buskers, colorful shops, festivals, and lots and lots of noise. Children will find this place irresistible; others might want to move along more quickly. From there, head over to the shops, galleries, and restaurants of South Granville or Kitsilano, with its laid-back, beach-town vibe.

Farther afield—far enough to require a car—lies the quintessential Vancouver destination: the Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia. The building itself is unarguably the masterwork of Arthur Erickson, Vancouver's most celebrated modernist architect. The powerful-yet-airy concrete structure was inspired by the post-and-beam construction of First Nations buildings, and the exterior alone is breathtaking. Totem poles stand like exclamation points on the grassy berm in front of the museum; Burrard Inlet and the Strait of Georgia glimmer beyond. On a misty day, there's a feeling of timelessness that sets the stage for the riches within the museum.

Inside, the showpiece is the great hall, with its display of canoes, totem poles, and objects, all beautiful examples of First Nations art. A compelling new addition is the series of galleries where the museum's holdings are displayed in glass cabinets and vitrines, organized geographically. Examining costumes, tools, and musical instruments, the viewer travels from British Columbia to Japan and Asia, as well as to Europe and Africa. The connections between cultures are visually explicit, and you exit the climate-controlled rooms feeling like you've traveled the breadth of the Pacific and beyond.

Vancouver takes a huge amount of pride in its First Nations history. Says John Vaillant—an author and resident of the city for the last 13 years—"There's a really strong effort to acknowledge our predecessors. The Musqueam people, who originally occupied this place, are part of public events. In fact, there were native villages on the beaches of Kitsilano as late as the last century. We do way more than cities like San Francisco and New York to connect to that history and culture, its art, its words."

But as much as Vancouver celebrates the people who've lived on this land for millennia, it's proved something of a challenge to keep up with the future. Some 40,000 immigrants pour into metropolitan Vancouver every year. They come from all over Asia, as well as from Western countries like England and Germany. Nowhere is this internationalism better reflected than in the city's cuisine. Vancouver is a bazaar of foods from around the world; some of the best Asian food on the globe is cooked here every day.

To visit Vancouver is to be told to eat at Vij's, an Indian restaurant. The city has a kind of collective mania for this establishment, opened almost two decades ago—and still presided over—by Vikram Vij. Taxi drivers, concierges, bartenders will all tell you to be sure to go to Vij's. This is easier said than done. Vij's takes no reservations; instead you must wait in the lounge, sometimes for hours, with a throng of other desperate souls. Chai and snacks are passed; wine is ordered; once the initial irritation subsides, the mood becomes convivial. Vij himself, an earring twinkling in his ear and a scarf tossed over his shoulders, rushes around the room, making each person feel like a guest at a very crowded party. In fact, it's the balance between the warmly elegant front-of-the-house service and the seasonal, organic, eclectic Indian food that makes Vij's an almost magical experience—the best pan-Indian dinner party you ever went to.

Other Asian and Southeast Asian choices abound. For lovers of sleek style and Thai food, there's Maenam in Kitsilano, crowded and hip and very delicious. Bao Bei serves modern interpretations of Chinese dishes in a chic, narrow room in Chinatown. Dim sum palaces are everywhere. But where Vancouver wants to eat right now is at an izakaya—a catchall term that simply means a bar that serves Japanese small plates.

You can izakaya your way across Vancouver, hitting one of the multiple spots owned by either the Hapa or Guu restaurant groups. Hapa is a sharper dresser; Guu is more down to earth, with slightly more interesting food. Either makes a great stop on the izakaya trail. Heading from downtown toward the West End, you might stop at Motomachi Sho­kudo for ramen. This little shop is bright and charming, with rustic wood counters and an adorable DIY aesthetic. Fortified, you can move on to Zakkushi, which serves charcoal-grilled skewers of various inevitably delicious proteins. Punk rock is the soundtrack; cries of "Hai!" fill the air.

Walking through the city, stopping for a snack here and there, catching a glimpse of the sunset between buildings, you get a democratic, pluralistic feeling, despite the city's newfound chic and wealth. This is a place where the good things in life aren't set aside for a lucky few; they're accessible to all who care to partake. There's room—and a view—for everyone here.

Explore the shore. Vancouver is best seen via its waterfront, with gob­­smack­ing views of sea, sky, and mountains. Walk along the False Creek shore­line near Yaletown and take in the parade of public art; trace the outline of the magnificent green thumb that is Stanley Park; then follow the water's edge at laid-back Kitsilano. At sunset in summertime, the urban beaches bordering English Bay are bustling with crowds of people hanging out, taking part in the best spectacle the city has to offer.

Have a snack attack. Vancouver is in the grip of izakaya-mania. These Japanese bars serve a variety of Asian small plates, from grilled snacks to sushi to udon noodles. There's no better way to spend an evening than sampling across the city.

See Chinatown by night. Vancouver has one of the most vibrant Chinatowns on the West Coast. In the daytime, shoppers looking for deals push their way through tourists. But the neighborhood's emerging nightlife scene gives it an edgy, youthful appeal after dark.

Set sail. The most charming way to traverse Vancouver is by boat. Little passenger ferries glide along False Creek, taking you from one side of town to the other (689-5858; theaquabus.com).

Go island hopping. In the late 1970s, the industrial wasteland of Granville Island became a success story of urban renewal when it was transformed into a shopping destination. Boutiques, restaurants, and buskers give the marketplace a vital (and hectic) feel.

Contemporary Art Gallery, 555 Nelson St., 681-2700; contemporaryartgallery.ca: A challenging, ambitious, elegant art space funded by the government? This is one of the reasons you might wish you were a Canadian citizen. Every show is smartly curated, presenting even difficult work in an accessible way.

Museum of Anthropology, 6393 NW Marine Dr., 822-5087; moa.ubc.ca: A mind-bogglingly beautiful collection of First Nations art of the Northwest coast, housed in a masterwork by Vancouver's most important contemporary architect, Arthur Erickson. High above the water on the University of British Columbia campus, the museum offers one of the most breathtaking views in the city.

Vancouver Art Gallery, 750 Hornby St., 662-4700; vanartgallery.bc.ca: This centrally located museum features work by important local artists, including beloved post-Impressionist icon Emily Carr.

The Keefer, 133 Keefer St., 688-1983; thekeefer.com: Three ultrachic suites and a luxurious penthouse complete with rooftop pool. Film folks use the hotel as a home away from L.A.; you can stay for a night or two as well.

Hapa Izakaya, 1479 Robson St. and other locations, 689-4272; hapaizakaya.com: A stylish, crowded Japanese tapas place in the heart of the Robson Street shopping district.

Maenam, 1938 W. 4th Ave., 730-5579; maenam.ca: This sleek Thai bistro is packed and sceney, but in a fun way.

Motomachi Shokudo, 740 Denman St., 609-0310: Great ramen in a rustic-yet-cool environment. People in Vancouver love to argue about who serves the best ramen; this sweet cafe is giving the old-timers a run for their money.

Vij's, 1480 W. 11th Ave., 736-6664; vijsrestaurant.ca: One of the city's best restaurants, Vij's has served exquisite Indian cuisine for almost two decades. The subtly seasoned food, the casually festive vibe, and the warm service make you feel like you're at the most cosmopolitan dinner party imaginable.

Zakkushi, 823 Denman St. and other locations, 685-1136; zakkushi.com: Meat on the charcoal grill, punk rock on the stereo, and lots of smiling faces. A great stop for a late-night snack.

WHERE TO SHOP

Gravitypope, 2205 W. 4th Ave., 731-7673; gravitypope.com: Shoe heaven for men and women in Kitsilano. Camper, Fluevog, Fiorentini + Baker, and Giraudon are all served in a cheerfully decadent atmosphere.