The ancient port city of Galle is Sri
Lanka's fourth largest town, with a population of around 80,000 people and
a history that stretches back hundreds of years. Some historians have
suggested that Galle might even be the Biblical Tarshish, where King
Solomon's ships called to take on gemstones, spices and scented woods.
There's nothing to establish the truth of this rather fanciful tale, but
it is at least certain that Galle is Sri Lanka's oldest living city,
contrasting with the more ancient--but deserted--capitals of Sigiriya,
Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa.

Located on the south-western shore of the island,
about 115km south of Colombo and just 18km south of the popular beach
resort of Hikkaduwa, Galle was for centuries Sri Lanka's main port, a
position which strengthened during the periods of Portuguese and Dutch
colonial rule. Galle only lost its primacy in the late 19th century, when
the British expanded and developed the harbour at Colombo to become the
island's major port. Today Galle Harbour still handles fishing vessels, a
certain amount of container traffic, as well as a few luxury yachts. It's
a shadow of its former self, though, and this adds to the mellow,
laid-back atmosphere of the place.

Although there is plenty of good accommodation
available in Galle, as well as some very passable places to eat, many
visitors will prefer to stay at one of the nearby beach resorts of Hikkaduwa,
Unawatuna or Weligama. A visit to Galle makes an excellent
and enjoyable day trip when it seems time to take a break from beach life
and indulge in a little history and culture.

History:

Galle was clearly chosen as a port for excellent
strategic reasons. It has a fine natural harbour protected, to the west,
by a south-pointing promontory--the next piece of land, literally, is the
frozen waste of the Antarctic, over five thousand miles distant.

Perhaps the earliest recorded reference to Galle
comes from the great Arab traveller Ibn Battuta, who visited the
port--which he calls Qali--in the mid-14th century. The Portuguese first
arrived in 1505, when a fleet commanded by Lorenzo de Almeida took shelter
from a storm in the lee of the town. Clearly the strategic significance of
the harbour impressed the Portuguese, for 82 years later, in 1587, they
seized control of the town from the Sinhala kings and began the
construction of Galle Fort. This event marked the beginning of almost four
centuries of European domination of the city, resulting in the fascinating
hybrid--architecturally, culturally and ethnically--which Galle is today.

The Dutch captured the city from the Portuguese in
1640, and immediately began strengthening the fortifications. They
remained for almost 150 years, until the city was in turn taken by the
British in 1796. Not until 1947, when Ceylon gained its independence from
the British, did Galle become, once again, an independent city--and by
this time the long years of association with European colonialism had left
an indelible stamp on the city which makes it unique in today's Sri Lanka.
In recognition of this fact, the Old City of Galle--essentially the fort
and its surroundings--was declared a World Heritage Site in 1988.

The Town:

Galle is really a tale of two cities. Inland, to the
north of the Colombo-Matara Road, is the modern commercial town
characterised by a jumble of bustling stores, warehouses and small
restaurants. Here, by the banks of the old Dutch Canal, may be
found the railway station, bus station and main bazaar. It's a place to
arrive, leave, eat, shop for necessities or change money (though there are
also two money-changing facilities within the fort itself). The only
building worthy of note is St Mary's Cathedral, built by the
British in 1874, and of more interest for the views its provides over the
Old Town than for any intrinsic architectural merit. Nevertheless,
"New Galle" is the beating commercial heart of the city without
which the Old Town would have difficulty surviving, and would lose much of
its bucolic charm.

Immediately south of the Colombo-Matara Road, and
dividing the commercial sector from the old fort, lies an area of open
land which, since 1998, has acquired increasing international fame. Once
known simply as The Esplanade, it is now graced with the title Galle
International Stadium, an international test cricket venue which
continues to grow in stature and reputation alongside the remarkable
successes of the Sri Lankan national team [see box below].

Just to the south of the stadium Old Galle
begins. Its barriers are unmistakable, as three massive bastions rise up
behind the playing field, cutting off the fortified peninsular from the
hustle and bustle of commerce--almost, it might seem, from the 21st
century.

Galle Fort covers an area of 36 hectares and
encloses several museums, a clock tower, churches, mosques, a lighthouse
and several hundred private dwellings. Tellingly, there are no major
Buddhist temples within the walls--the Dutch may have been gone for more
than two centuries, but their cultural influence, best represented by the
crumbling Groote Kerk, local seat of the Dutch Reformed Church,
remains palpable.

It takes a full day to explore Galle Fort properly,
but given this length of time the exploration can be carried out in a
leisurely and relaxing manner by foot. The ancient walls, dating in large
part from the Dutch establishment of the fort in 1663, are largely intact
and make a wonderfully evocative circuitous walk around the fort,
especially at dusk when the setting sun illumines the historic western
ramparts.

The City Ramparts: Galle's Dutch defenders
feared--mistakenly, as it turned out--assault by land from the Sinhala
kings more than the threat by sea from their British cousins. Accordingly,
three great ramparts were built at tremendous cost in both labour and
treasure to isolate the peninsula from "the mainland".
Stretching across the peninsula from west to east, these are the Star
Bastion, the Moon Bastion and the Sun Bastion. Rising
high above the present-day esplanade, these deep, crenellated
fortifications must once have appeared all-but-impregnable to the armies
of Kandy and Colombo. Today, however--and let the visitor be
forewarned--their angular crevices provide privacy for courting couples
rather than security for archers and musketeers. Quite seriously, one
should approach these outer battlements with discretion for fear of giving
offence. Towards dusk there is hardly a recess in the battlements without
its pair of cuddling teenagers, often shielded from prying eyes behind a
large umbrella!

It takes about two hours for a leisurely stroll
around the walls of the Old City. Only once, between the Aurora Bastion
and the Main Gate, is it necessary to descend into the fort itself. Yet
this is no great hardship, for nearby is the distinguished New Oriental
Hotel, built by the Dutch in 1684 as a governorial mansion, where cold
beer, lime soda and other more substantial sustenance are readily
available.

It's best to make a circuit of the walls clockwise,
starting at the New Oriental Hotel. From here it's just a short stroll,
beneath great, shady rain trees, to the Aurora Bastion. Continue
southwards, with fine views over old Galle Harbour to the east, to reach
the 20m-high lighthouse, built by the British in 1934, which dominates Point
Utrecht Bastion at the fort's south-eastern corner. The walk continues
due west, skirting the Indian Ocean past Triton, Neptune and
Clippenburg Bastions--all, more likely than not, with a few
courting couples gazing into the setting sunset.

Beyond Clippenburg, as the fortifications turn due
north towards Star Bastion and the main northern defences, there is
a Sri Lankan Army camp at Aeolus Bastion, which remains off limits
to tourists. There's no great sense of military paranoia, but, especially
in view of the political instability in the north of the island, it's
better to refrain from taking photos at this point. One Sri Lankan army
officer, discussing the matter, pointed out that Anton Balasingham, the
Tamil Tiger's chief political theoretician, is married to Adele
Balasingham, a white Australian militant who figures prominently on the
Sri Lankan government's most wanted list. Clearly, being a Westerner is no
guarantee of neutrality, so it's always best to exercise discretion near
Sri Lankan army bases!

Inside Galle Fort: The real charm of Old
Galle lies in the quiet back streets and alleyways of the historic fort,
which have changed little--if at all--since colonial times. There are two
entries into the fort, the Main Gate, built by the British in 1873
which pierces the main ramparts between the Sun and Moon Bastions, and the
more venerable Old Gate, further to the east on Baladaksha Maw (or
Customs Road). The latter is distinguished by the British coat of arms
carved into its outer stone lintel, while on the inside the initials VOC,
flanked by two lions and surmounted by a cock are deeply etched on the
inner lintel. This latter inscription is dated 1669, and VOC stands for
the Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie, or United East India
Company. The cockerel has become a symbol of Galle, and it is even
suggested that the name of the city derives from galo, which is
"rooster" in Portuguese. Just beyond the Old Gate stands the Zwart
Bastion, or Black Fort--the oldest fortification surviving in Galle,
and thought to be of Portuguese origin.

With the exception of Zwart Bastion, the interior of
Galle Fort is strongly redolent of the Dutch period. Several of the narrow
streets still bear Dutch names such as Leyn Baan or "Rope
Lane" and Mohrische Kramer Straat or "Street of the
Moorish Traders". Beneath the streets an efficient, Dutch-built
sewerage system is still flushed out twice daily by the rising tides of
the Indian Ocean. Many of the streets are lined with formerly opulent
buildings characterised by large rooms, arched verandas and windows
protected by heavy, wooden-louvered shutters.

The northern part of the fort is dominated by the
British-built Clock Tower and a small roundabout located
immediately within the Main Gate. From here Church Street curves away
south past the National Cultural Museum (Tue-Sat 9am-5pm; Rs35)
with rather poorly displayed exhibits of the city's colonial heritage. The
National Maritime Museum on nearby Queen Street (Sun-Thu 9am-5pm;
Rs55) is similarly dilapidated, but of more interest than the various
fishing and other maritime artefacts is the massively fortified Dutch
warehouse in which they are displayed. Old Galle is of much more interest
as a "living museum" than for the museums it houses, but it's
worth making a quick visit to the Dutch Period Museum on Leyn Baan
(daily 8.30am-5.30pm; admission free). This privately-owned establishment
houses an astonishing array of Dutch-period artefacts ranging from rare
porcelain to obscure bric-a-brac.

Of far more interest than the museums is the
dilapidated Groot Kerk or Dutch Reformed Church,
located--appropriately enough--on Church Street just south of the New
Oriental Hotel. Founded in 1754 by the then Dutch Governor of Galle, Capar
de Jong, it's in urgent need of restoration but well worth visiting for
the ancient Dutch gravestones, both in the churchyard and within the nave.
These are generally distinguished by skulls and skeletons, grim reminders
of the tenuous nature of life in 18th century Galle, as well as
characteristic of the dour nature of contemporary Dutch Protestantism.

Opposite the Groot Kerk stands the old Dutch
Government House, a fine old colonial building bearing the date 1683
and the cockerel crest of Galle over the main entrance. The original Dutch
ovens still survive within the building, which is currently used as a
commercial office but slated for redevelopment as a luxury hotel; whether
this venture will succeed remains to be seen, as the house is generally
believed to be haunted.

Further south along Church Street stands the
Catholic All Saints Church, built by the British in 1868 and
consecrated in 1871. Beyond this, at the southernmost point of the
peninsula, a small "Moorish" (Muslim) community still prospers,
with a madrassa or Islamic college and two mosques, the most
impressive of which is the Meera Masjid. It's fine to enter, but as
with similar Christian, Buddhist and Hindu institutions you should be
appropriately dressed and respectful of worshippers.

PRACTICALITIES

The best way of getting to Galle from Colombo
is by either train or bus. Regular CTB and private buses ply the
coastal A2 highway. Air-conditioned express buses cost Rs60 (3 hours) and
leave every 15 minutes from Colombo's Bastian Mawatha station. The
express buses are preferable to the ordinary buses (Rs40) which can get
awfully crowded. All buses pull in at Galle's busy bus station opposite
the cricket ground. Ten trains leave either Colombo's Fort
or Maradana stations daily for Galle. The journey takes around 2
1/2 hours and both 1st and 2nd class seats are available on most trains.
From Galle there's a daily train to Kandy (6-7 hours). Galle
railway station is slightly to the west of the bus station on the Colombo
Road. Taxis at more than RS3000 a trip between Colombo and Galle
are an expensive option.

ACCOMMODATION

Closenberg Hotel, 11 Closenberg Road, tel:
9-32241. Roughly 2km out of Galle on the Matara Road, this 19th-century
colonial villa overlooking the sea is one of Galle's best mid-range
hotels. It was originally built in 1858 for a Captain Bailey [see box
below]. Decorated with original antique furniture and surrounded by a
lovely tropical garden with many trees and flowers. The hotel is built on
a promontory and a five-minute descent brings you to a fine sandy beach.

The Lady Hill, 29 Upper Dickson Road, tel:
9-44322, fax: 9-34855, e-mail: ladyhill@sltnet.lk. A beautifully
refurbished 19th century mansion set high above Galle. A popular and
efficiently run, up market hotel with good access to the city centre.
Great views of the harbour and fort.

Old Dutch House, 42 Lighthouse Street, tel:
9-34370. A wonderful old Dutch colonial house in the middle of the Fort
area. A hugely atmospheric place with a number of historical items dotted
around the building.

Rampart Hotel, 31 Rampart Street, tel: 074
380103. As the name suggests it's located right next to the old walls to
the south west of the Fort. The owners have a jewellery and handicrafts
showroom in the same building. The 2 rooms are comfortable, but plain and
contain old four-poster beds.

Sun House, 18 Upper Dickson Road, tel:
9-22624, web: www.thesunhouse.com, e-mail: info@thesunhouse.com. The Sun
House was originally a spice merchant's house built on a hilltop
overlooking the town. It's renowned for its superb cooking and excellent
service. One of Sri Lanka's very best accommodation options, though
predictably it's not cheap.

EATING AND DRINKING

Some of the best places to eat in Galle are the
various guest houses and restaurants scattered around the Old City and
Fort. Nearly all will provide breakfasts, as well as simple but tasty
curry-and-rice lunches and dinners, though it's sometimes necessary to
order in advance.

In the heart of the Fort, the New Oriental Hotel
offers curries and tiffin in a rather faded colonial atmosphere--the
chicken and coconut milk curry is a house speciality and can be highly
recommended.

In New Galle cheaper rice and curry restaurants can
be found in the area around the train and bus stations. One of the best,
the Sydney Hotel, serves an excellent selection of curries for as
little as Rs60--truly a bargain. In the same area, both located on the
east side of Havelock Place, are the Chinese Globe and New
Chinese restaurants. Both offer substantial portions at reasonable
prices--The Globe, in particular, is something of an institution, having
survived at its present location for at least three decades. As with just
about all "Chinese restaurants" in Sri Lanka, however, the food
is somewhat less than authentic, with menus listing Fish & Chips or
Boiled Egg (!) alongside more familiar Far Eastern specialities like Sweet
& Sour Pork or Spring Rolls.

Test
Match Fever

Cricket is a Sri Lankan national obsession, and what's more the Sri Lankan
national team has proved exceptionally good at playing the game. As a
consequence in recent years Galle International Stadium has emerged
(together with Colombo and Kandy) as one of three main Test Match grounds
in Sri Lanka.

Aficionados claim that the pitch at Galle is generally a hard flat batting
track. The proximity to the seashore gives the air a bit of a bite, giving
the fast bowlers something to look forward to in the first half an hour or
so. The grass on the field is an even carpet, not thick enough to slow the
ball down significantly, but quite enough to keep the ball from getting
scuffed up too early.

Certainly the ground has proved lucky for the national team. Since Galle
became a Test venue in 1998 Sri Lanka have won every match they've played
there but two. It would be hard to find an international cricket stadium
set in a more uniquely historic location.

The Closenberg Hotel

Perched high on its own tiny peninsula--almost an island--overlooking
Galle from the east stands the attractive Closenberg Hotel. Originally
established as a private residence in 1859 by Captain Bailey, an agent for
the P&O shipping company, it enjoys particularly fine views over both
Galle Fort and Harbour. This substantial villa was built by the captain
for his wife, Marina, and originally named after her. Today the building
has been converted into a rather elegant hotel set in an attractive
tropical garden. It still retains a very distinct colonial feel, however,
and some of the original furniture survives, distinguished by the P&O
Rising Sun emblem on chair backs and elsewhere.

Maldivian Tribute

For many centuries the sultans of the remote Maldive Islands, set in the
central Indian Ocean some 300 miles (500km) south-west of Sri Lanka, paid
an annual tribute to the Kings of Ceylon through the port of Galle.

This tribute, formally acknowledging Ceylonese suzerainty over the
Maldives, was sent to Galle aboard sailing vessels known as baggala.
These tiny vessels, having made the hazardous crossing from Male, the
Maldivian capital, would bestow gifts of the finest Maldivian mats,
beautiful lacquerware, sweetmeats, palm honey, a pungent fish paste known
as rihakuru packed in earthenware jars, and small but valuable
quantities of ambergris on the Ceylonese kings. By all accounts it was a
solemn and picturesque tradition--but the last tribute was sent in 1947,
the year in which Sri Lanka gained its independence, while Maldives became
an independent republic in 1968. Today cultural and commercial relations
between the two countries remain friendly and close, but the only time a
Maldivian baggala is likely to be seen in Galle Harbour is during
seriously stormy weather!