well there are the $$$$ dead birds that have had major lower tie in point wear issues .... i dont think ive heard of any other harness in recent memory that had these issues by multiple folks ... even el cheapo ones ...

sad cause the old dead birds are durable as hell ... my gym still uses em

Kind of an interesting question. A buddy of mine who was one of the best free climbers in Yosemite Valley in the late 70's and early 80's shows up the local climbing gym with the harness he used on all his hard climbs and the gym won't let him wear it. He has to rent one of their harnesses to climb.

Kind of an interesting question. A buddy of mine who was one of the best free climbers in Yosemite Valley in the late 70's and early 80's shows up the local climbing gym with the harness he used on all his hard climbs and the gym won't let him wear it. He has to rent one of their harnesses to climb.

Well, if his harness is 43 years old I think the gym is well off on that decision.

Kind of an interesting question. A buddy of mine who was one of the best free climbers in Yosemite Valley in the late 70's and early 80's shows up the local climbing gym with the harness he used on all his hard climbs and the gym won't let him wear it. He has to rent one of their harnesses to climb.

20 kN wrote:

Well, if his harness is 43 years old I think the gym is well off on that decision.

I'm with you on that, I doubt the gym cared much when he told them who he was and what he had done in that harness.

Was that the Whillans design with a single strap straight up the front/middle to crush a climber's nuts if he fell? definitely gave the guys a motive not to fall.

Yup,,was going to offer up this harness for the most painful nut jerker of all time. But women seemed to love it!/;-) Whillans harness was my only harness from the early 70's,,a must to have instead of the 2 inch wide swami wrapped around the waist that many climbers were still going with.

I saw these 200 dollar pants /harness and thought it was kinda novel idea. But how do you drop trousers for a crap on mid route big walls. OH, I know, it's a one pitch sporty harness only. And I'm guessing it doesn't fit too well when your waistline changes even by an inch.

I would have to say that my Metolius Safetech is the most uncomfortable harness I've had, but I've only owned 4 other harnesses, the Arcteryx Vapor being the most comfy, but I bought it on sale when the new POS's started coming out!

I think I'm going to buy a Wild Country Syncro, or at least try one on.

I would have to say that my Metolius Safetech is the most uncomfortable harness I've had, but I've only owned 4 other harnesses, the Arcteryx Vapor being the most comfy, but I bought it on sale when the new POS's started coming out! I think I'm going to buy a Wild Country Syncro, or at least try one on.

The Synchro isn't the most comfortable. The waist is nice but the leg straps kind of dig. It's got a ton of gear loops, which is awesome, but my Metolius whatever the hell that I got as part of a package with a chalk bag and belay device is way comfier.

Alpine Bod - there are plenty of full-feature harnesses on the market today that are way lighter and less bulkier than this classic stripped-down version. The only thing it's good for is climbing off-widths.

I've found that most people who trash the Whillans harness haven't actually used it and are are reacting to the horrifying looking "crutch" strap as it was called. I climbed and guided in one for years and took several 50-footers in it with no problems. The only time it would catch my junk was when I was leaning back slowly as in the start of a rappel, something that current harness still do on occasion. Both of my children were conceived after my 5 year stint with the Whillans.

It was much more comfortable than the diaper-style harnesses available at the time and the leg-loop harness were beastly affairs more suitable for rescues and big walls. It wasn't until Tom Jones started up J-Rat that swami-leg loop style harnesses began to get comfortable.

Alpine Bod - there are plenty of full-feature harnesses on the market today that are way lighter and less bulkier than this classic stripped-down version. The only thing it's good for is climbing off-widths.

Arc'teryx harnesses. Before these lightweight POS's came out I only replaced my harness every couple of years because I outgrew them. The first Arc'teryx I got was around $125 (nearly double what harnesses were going for at the time) and it lasted less than three months before the tie-in point busted. I've bought one more since then, but ONLY because I found them on The Clymb for less than $40 and I had a couple of coupons so I ended up paying around $25. That one busted in the same spot, but since I got about 12 months’ worth of climbing out of it I didn't care. This was only because I duct taped the bottom tie-in point as soon as I got it. I love how the harness fits and compacts down into the size of a tuna can, but if you’re going to pay that much money Arc’teryx should get with the times and include a guard similar to the new Mammut harness that protects the bottom tie-in point.

Arc'teryx harnesses. Before these lightweight POS's came out I only replaced my harness every couple of years because I outgrew them. The first Arc'teryx I got was around $125 (nearly double what harnesses were going for at the time) and it lasted less than three months before the tie-in point busted. I've bought one more since then, but ONLY because I found them on The Clymb for less than $40 and I had a couple of coupons so I ended up paying around $25. That one busted in the same spot, but since I got about 12 months’ worth of climbing out of it I didn't care. This was only because I duct taped the bottom tie-in point as soon as I got it. I love how the harness fits and compacts down into the size of a tuna can, but if you’re going to pay that much money Arc’teryx should get with the times and include a guard similar to the new Mammut harness that protects the bottom tie-in point.

My first climbing experiences were in a Swiss seat tied with 1" webbing. I think that's my vote for the worst harness I've ever worn, although supposedly the Army ties them with cord instead of flat webbing... ouch!

My first climbing experiences were in a Swiss seat tied with 1" webbing. I think that's my vote for the worst harness I've ever worn, although supposedly the Army ties them with cord instead of flat webbing... ouch!

Oh yes, the 'diaper harness' of one inch webbing strapped around and hooked in front with a carabiner was my actual first harness besides a rope coil tie in. It slipped down the legs and the 'biner knocked at your nuts or navel all the time. awful.