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-used 1.5 carrier, 2 shims, medium spring. Problem gun wouldn't shoot. Solution turned up velocity to unknown amount (no chrono available oops). new result gun would shoot and bounce back with nothing there at lower velocity setting and as i increased it the gun would resume shooting normally and bounce back if i held my squeege in the chamber (down the barrel, haven't tried down the power feed yet). UPDATE gun shoots fine but developed a small leak after about 50 shots. Proposed solution according to an earlier post on this thread it was said that using the next smaller carrier will stop this leak. I have yet to try it. I will reply once I tried it with my final setup.

response to TheFlamingKoosh is on bottom of post, my update is above.

-the bolt stuck one time on rapid fire(only within the first 30 shots after i made the above adjustments to LX), but never did it again.

-the Level 10 system is working, I put a dollar bill in it bounced, i put scotch tape on a paintball and put it half way into the chamber fired 2 times, bounced both times (didnt try beyond that since I didn't feel like cleaning up a mess atm). Fired 100 rounds while having inconsistant velocity and on about 4 occasions heard the Level 10 psssht noise in effect.

-the VELOCITY is VERY INCONSISTANT NOW!!! using a radarchron hand held chrono I was getting velocity readings from 249 to 291 and it seemed to jump anywhere within this range every shot. THIS HAS TO BE FIXED!!!!!

Proposed Solution
Reading through some old posts here I see that solutions range from changing the type of paintballs you are shooting, to replacing/cleaning the REG SEAT.

NOTE: My friend with a EMAG w/LX installed (snakestangs old emag) gets VERY CONSISTANT VELOCITY when we used the same radarchron hand held chronograph his readings ranged from 183-188. So its not the chronograph..

TheFlamingKoosh,

Since I dont have a dental pick, I improvised and used a paperclip and bent one end with a pair of pliers (note: bent on the extreme end of the paperclip so you can have a tiny hook, having too large of a hook will make you unable to get into the carrier hole, ok that didnt sound good but thats how it works).

If your leaking down the barrel I would suggest changing your carrier to the next smaller size.

Easy way to get the carriers out!

Use your field strip screw, set it into the powertube and into the carrier, turn it to the right to kind of "thread" it into the carrier and simply pull. Works like a charm if you don't have dental picks or some other kind of picks. Wal-Mart sells a really nice set of Stanley picks for around four dollars.

I probably have missed it looking through the 7 pages, so I do apologize if this has already been asked.

I have slapped in my LX into my RT Pro. I am using 2 shims and the 1.5 carrier.

Anyway, I am noticing two things.

1. When I fire, I notice that the bolt seems to return too far back. When I let go of my trigger after firing, the bolt seems to move forward just a pinch and when doing so gives a little hiss. Should I remove a shim?

2. This could be related, but right now I am sitting around the 295-310 FPS range. Should I continue to chrony the gun, and fire as much as possible to break in the o-ring and perhaps this will allow me to drop my velocity a bit? Right now, if I drop it down any farther the gun will not do anything.

The bolt is suppose to move a little bit forward when you release the trigger. If it constantly leaks or lets out a little hiss and then stops, then you have it set right at the point that the o-ring is barely sealing the vent hole in the bolt piston. Remove a shim and it should be good.

Are you using the longest spring? If so, then put in the middle one so that it will start operating at a lower velocity and be more reliable up around 290fps. It needs to get a bunch of cycles to break in the o-ring. Make sure it's oiled too.

Right now I am using the middle spring (cut spring). Just to see, I will remove one shim and see how that works.

If I put in the longer spring, would that make my velocity problem worse?

Also, temperature it is quite cool out right now. Just above freezing, around 5 degrees C. So, somewhere in the 40's in F. Thanks

[Edit: I just noticed that I never removed the little plastic bumper on my assembly. Am I supposed to keep it on, or remove it and store it with my old bolt? Just curious...]

[Update: I put in the shortest spring and am able to drop below 300. Right now I am running around 270-290 FPS. There are some spikes in the range, and so I will have to fine tune my velocity setting when I can get more paint.

Now, I can put my squeegie up near the bolt, and the bolt will tap it, and then reset. But, I have a feeling that it is still hitting a bit too hard. I put a ball halfway into the port, and it chopped the ball. Now, I would imagine that putting in a longer spring would fix the chopping problem. However, then I do not think I will be able to chrony below 300 again.

When I dropped down to 1 shim, I had leaks and it was inconsistent all over the place. When adding another shim my velocity is much more consistent. However, I could not get it below 300 using the middle spring. When I put in the shortest spring, I could go below 300.

Odd how the 268 got there. I tested another 6 shots individually loaded and got results ranging from 283-290. Close enough for me! Previous chronograph results ranged from 249-291.

-Scotch taped a MARBALLIZER paintball and lowered it half way into the chamber and fired (once). Result was the expected bounce back of the bolt.

-Put finger inside chamber and fired, result again was the expected bounce back. I'm assuming Level 10 functions are all there.Solution
In my previous post I mentioned that I was experiencing inconsistant velocity after installing Level 10. I read a more recent post regarding this issue and somebody proposed that changing over to the shortest spring alleviates this.

In my previous post I was testing using the medium spring and since then I have changed the spring to the shortest spring size and couldn't be happier with the results.

Judging from my history I started with what I presumed to be a clean ReTro valve since it was shooting consistantly before the Level 10 installation. I did have a lingering thought that perhaps my valve became dirty or otherwise mucked up in the proccess of playing before I installed Level 10, or perhaps in the installation proccess itself (I find this hard but you can never be too sure).

I hope this information can be of assistance to anybody else, I thank the AO forum members for all their valuable insight to the various dillemas associated with the Level 10 installation.

I will field test this in speedball this weekend will post performance results.

Congrats Hikaru! I look to have mine running as well as you. It is also good to hear of something using the shortest spring, and getting it to work so well. I was afraid it would still be too hard on the paint.

Duke- You're talking about the clear/yellowish bumper that goes on the valve and the bolt comes back and hits that, right? If so DO NOT remove it. That must be there, otherwise you'll end up breaking your bolt or powertube.

Got and installed the level 10 in my SFL E-Mag. Thw 2 carrier leaked a little, so I went down to the 1.5. Installed it with 2 shims, everything worked fine. I thought that the carrier/bolt was a little tight, but the next one up leaked, so I guess that is what I have to do.

Everything worked great. While playing around with it, (using the Cut spring) it stopped on everthing, fingers, paintballs, just like the level 10 is supposed to.

When I went to use it in a game however, it all changed. It fired fine for about 10 shots... then I got the level 10 PFFFT noise, and the next shot broke. I am assuming that it pushed a ball in the barrel but didn't fire it, the next one fired and broke both of them. At the time however, I assumed it was a fluke, cleaned everything out and went to start the first game. fired another 20ish shots, same thing happened... I didn't bring a squeegee on the feild because I had so much faith in the level 10... long story short: I continued breaking balls like mad the entire day.

About half way through, I completey took my gun apart, and added another shim. With that, the problem went away mostly... I broke like one in 200 balls, instead of one in 20 like I was. There was alot of paint goo all around the breech, so I am assuming that that could have caused the break.

I am out of paint and air for a while, but does my current setup sound good? I mean, do you think that fixed the problem?

Velocity looked fine, I played woodsball on my friends land, so no chrono. If I remember right I turned it all the way up, then unscrewed it two entire turns. I didn't have enough time or air to see if unscrewing it more would help...

I bought the gun used, the previous owner didn't give me the level 7 bolt, and he uninstalled the level 10 kit... figured it would be the best for me to install it myself. He says it worked perfect for him... He used the '2' carrier, which is the one that leaked a little bit when I had it.

Cut spring has the cut-end facing the bolt, not the barrel.

I just got to thinking, wouldn't putting in a shorter spring help with the thing? I mean, that way it would have less resistance and it could move faster before venting. Just my idea...

I probably won't be able to try any more things until this sunday at the earliest, I'm kinda of poor and won't be able to afford the paint. DOH!

O.K., I am keeping the rubber bumper on there (never did take it off).

So, I am using the shortest spring, 1.5 carrier, and 2 shims.

Now, as stated before - I can't seem to get the gun to chrony below 300 with the middle spring. (I put about 400 shots through it).

Also, with the shortest spring I still chopped some paint. Now, assuming that the fault is not with the paint (I will pickup some new stuff Wednesday), what are some suggestions for getting my LX up and running sweetly?

Should I try to get it to work with the short spring, or the medium spring, or something else?

ok well my problem isn't that bad,but its annoying, if I do not shoot my gun btw games then right off the break, I pull the trigger around 3 times and nothing happens and then after that third pull, everything is fine, I have the med. spring, 2 shims and 1.5 carrier, what can I do to get it working all the time

Sorry if this has already been posted,
I have been trying about all carriers in my mag but what what happens is that I gas it up it will leak big time then I can hold the trigger down and it will mostly stop and the bolt can be clicked back agin then if I let go of the trigger it does it again. I have no shims in for the fact that I am testing the right carrier.

CP Small bore and a Level 10

Hi,
I have a mini-mag with a 10" CP .685 barrel that was working fine until I upgraded to the level 10. Now the bolt is sticking inside the small bore barrel. I have 4 other medium barrels and this is the only one that this happens with. I've emailed CP and they haven't returned my email yet. I really love this barrel! What should I do???? Any help would be appreciated.
Marc

Originally posted by BAD007 Sorry if this has already been posted,
I have been trying about all carriers in my mag but what what happens is that I gas it up it will leak big time then I can hold the trigger down and it will mostly stop and the bolt can be clicked back agin then if I let go of the trigger it does it again. I have no shims in for the fact that I am testing the right carrier.

Originally posted by LawFox32 ok well my problem isn't that bad,but its annoying, if I do not shoot my gun btw games then right off the break, I pull the trigger around 3 times and nothing happens and then after that third pull, everything is fine, I have the med. spring, 2 shims and 1.5 carrier, what can I do to get it working all the time

thanx

Go to a bigger carrier or super polish the bolt piston. I had exact same problem, polished my piston and everything is great. This seems to be a problem when the carrier is so minutely too tight that going to a bigger carrier causes slight leakage.

Re: CP Small bore and a Level 10

Originally posted by MPRoberts0 Hi,
I have a mini-mag with a 10" CP .685 barrel that was working fine until I upgraded to the level 10. Now the bolt is sticking inside the small bore barrel. I have 4 other medium barrels and this is the only one that this happens with. I've emailed CP and they haven't returned my email yet. I really love this barrel! What should I do???? Any help would be appreciated.
Marc

Try honing out the barrel slightly, but only the breech part. Then you still have a small bore barrel, but the bolt won't hang up on it anymore.

Originally posted by BAD007 I have a classic mag, its comming out of the barrel a lot and does with all carriers. I can put the 7 in and it will work fine though.

The carrier(s) are not sealing properly. Make use the black oring on the outside is not damaged and oiled properly. When changing carriers are you removing the small power piston oring and using it (the same one) in the new carrier?

im using a crossfire preset. I am using different o rings also. I oiled them too. I have tried all that thats why I posted because I was starting to think something is really wrong with this thing. I am going to try that stuff aagain and tinker around with it, thanks for your help guys.

Originally posted by BAD007 I have a classic mag, its comming out of the barrel a lot and does with all carriers. I can put the 7 in and it will work fine though.

Check the piston on the level 10 bolt. It should only be sticking out of the back of the bolt by a quarter of an inch or so. If that piston isn't seated properly it can back out and will cause leaks like that. Unfortunately it is not a user repairable item. Fortunately AGD will replace it for free. Your best way to check this is to compare your bolt to another level 10 and see if they look identical.