Your ' rushed and incomplete model' is far better than a lot of stuff I've seen built. If this didn't place I'd be interested to see what did.

I'm with Garett here Luftan-- I think it's not so much about your excellent work as it is about what else was there-- personaly I think it's exceptional, and it sure looks completely realistic to me-- finish it and re-enter it. Sometimes it's a matter of personal satisfaction, not recognition, but if I was a judge I'd give you the highest marks-- in fact, I think you should do a feature on taking a kit and adding extra details here on Armorama.VR, Russ

Luftan, nice work, well done!!! I think the problem with the judging might be (I'm assuming of course) that because you are placing the kit in a diorama, the wheels that are not touching the track, and the inevitable resulting slack in the track when the model is displayed on a flat surface, removed your build from contention in the competition. You should do great once it is in your diorama setting!

The suspension was certainly an issue. But I didn't want to give up on the diorama just to make it in time for this contest.

Im already working on the diorama, mainly the jungle part. I won't be posting updates here since there is a specific thread group on diorama. Although I wish I could combine the build and the diorama just to make things simple.

Terrain work is outstanding. Like your M48A3, you excel at getting in the details that makes your work come alive and is evident in your diorama base now as well. The details on the log, moss, and the mushrooms. Great job and can't wait to see it finished.

Thank you very much Blogging progress is my main source of energy towards modelling. I like the interaction with other models online and in real world. And you guys have been very helpful in that regard!

I am starting to get used to the tree growing process.

I use thin metal wire or Dutch dry flower as the base for the plants. Then, I glue on leafs made out of paper. This brilliant product is made by Kami-Zukuri, a Japanese company.

I am also very happy with how the edge of the base turned out. It blends quite well with the groundwork.

Hello I have been taking a rest from base building, and moved on to painting another figure. There is a big open space on the left side of the M48. I decided to place one figure from Bravo6`s "Ge on line!" set.

The only parts you need to glue is the 2 arms, and a hand holding the M16A1 rifle. The fit between the body and the arms are flawless, no need for filler. The hand and arm, needed a little filler and sanding to make them smooth. As you know, there is no seamline in human arm!

The M72LAW launcher and the barrel of the gun was slightly warped. Quick dip inside hot water solved the problem. However, I dropped the figure and broke the barrel. I made my original gun barrel from 2 brass pipes.

The figure received a nice even coat of Gaia colour white surfacer, and Tamiya acrylic Flesh.

I use 3 main tones for the skin and facial features. Vallejo`s PanzerAces range, 341,342 and 343. 341 will act as the base flesh colour, and the 2 other colours were mixed accordingly to create shadow/highlights.

Moving on to pants. Same principal applies here to. Base colour, and 2 lighter and darker colour to alter the tone of the colour. For the base, I mixed 70.897 Bronce Green and 70.886 Green Grey in a 1:1 ratio.

Finally, the jacket and weapons. For the jacket, I used the same Green Grey, without mixing with Bronce Green.The portable rocket launcher was painted with 70.967 Olive Green. I added some decals to replicate the caution/instruction stickers. The M16A1 rifle was actually painted using Tamiya Enamel. This way, its easy to wipe off black paint if I accidentally get it on other areas. Simple flat black for steel area, and a mix between Gloss black and Rubber black for plastic stock and hand guard.

Everything you've done and/or added to this build just moves it up higher in levels as an outstanding presentation. Attention to detail and superb modeling skill evident in every aspect. The figure just adds more to that and shows in quality of painting. Even the eyes are 'looking' as apposed to being just painted. Really look forward to your posts. Thanks for sharing,

Sorry for the late reply, and thank you all very very much for your kind words!!A month ago, I still have 20-30 days to work till the deadline. Thought it was enough time, and here I am. Only 4 days to work on the model for the exposition, and I haven't even poured the clear resin in..

Here is the progress so far. I apologise for the lack of wip photos. I was quite busy with the upcoming licence test (which is tomorrow ) and wanted to use all my free time into modelling, not blogging.

And my favourite photo so far!

I will have to add more chipping around the front lights, and add 3D dirt/mud to the front fenders.

Are there anything that I should be aware of when it comes to pouring clear resin? And would tamiya acrylic colour be ok to colour the clear resin?

Superb quality just continues to be evident and refined with each update. This is really coming together. For a suggestion, I'd continue the mud effect by adding 'splatters' to front glacis, fenders, and even a touch to front of turret? Maybe a lizard or bird fleeing the tree in your foliage? Outstanding no matter what you do or don't add. Anxious to see completed and of course, best of luck.

Hello folks. Quick update. I was in extreme rush to get my model somewhat presentable for the model festival. I poured the resin in.

The result is... not what I hoped for. I was unable to properly colour the clear resin, and resin started leaking from the bottom base. I cured the leakage and re-painted the base (photo shows before fix). Resin cured and left a 2-3mm gap on top as a result of shrinkage. This will give me enough wiggle space to pour another layer of resin, this time properly coloured.

The diorama currently is at my friends house, since the festival lasted 2 days and I was there only for the first half. It`ll be after December when I`ll be able to retouch this diorama. So I just wanted to give a quick update before going afk

Very nice work. I do appreciate all the small details You put in and also the fact that You didnt over-complicate the diorama theme. As VN-era equipment collector I have to say the details are spot on.

Luftan, Glad you're back to this one-- it looks fantastic by the way! I suggest Luiquitex Acrylic gel for the waves, although you can use any good fast drying, clear vinyl bathroom caulk for water. I recommend experimenting with a couple of brands if you can find it in your area. You can build it up in layers, to get diffferent heights of waves. I've had some luck mixing in some Acrylic color too with these products. I just have a minor point to mention about your composition-- the Tank is a US Marine M-48A1, but the soldier figure is a US Army figure with a 25th Infantry Division Patch on his left sleeve. I don't think the USMC and the Army's 25th ID worked together where M48s were involved in Vietnam. The soldier is also wearing typical Army gear, rather than a USMC fragmentation vest (like the tank crew-- it was a lightweight vest with a polymer lining as opposed to armor plate, making it suitable only for absorbing small splinters and fragments). I think I'd get rid of the 25th ID patch on the running soldier, which would likely solve your immediate "mis-match of USMC/ USArmy problem. VR, Russ

The soldier is also wearing typical Army gear, rather than a USMC fragmentation vest (like the tank crew-- it was a lightweight vest with a polymer lining as opposed to armor plate, making it suitable only for absorbing small splinters and fragments). I think I'd get rid of the 25th ID patch on the running soldier, which would likely solve your immediate "mis-match of USMC/ USArmy problem.

Luftan I'm glad this build is back. Amazing work.

Russ the figures in the tank are wearing the early pattern US Army fragmentation vest, not the USMC version.