Dodge Charger Reviews

Dodge Charger Reviews and Owner Comments

Brakes went at 19,000 refused to cover warrenty numerous ball joints, tie rods issues under recall for igintion problems sometime some things like windshield wipers heating do not work. high cost of maintence last american car i will buy

I have the SXT model with the 6-cylinder 3.5L HO (High Output) engine with the 4-speed 42RLE Chrysler transmission. This car is really fun to drive. Lots of power (250h, which really is impressive for a 6cyl) engine has a nice subtle "purr" to it during normal driving, but at a quick acceleration and WOT (wide open throttle) you can definitely here the engine growl. strong brakes make for a quick and powerful stop, which is great being that this car is pretty heavy. the charger handles well. i would have liked to feel more of a stiff feel with the steering, however, turning at a good rate of speed you can feel the car sway, which is very normal, but seeing that this is in the "sport" class of family sedans, i expected better. still wicked-fun driving on winding roads. Spacious interior. lots of leg room with rear A/C vents in the center console. A/C blows nice and cold, heater can make you sweat. my only issue is that moisture eventually accumulates in the HVAC system which leads to that musty smell. easily fixed with disinfectant/deodorizer. for the men and women that work on their cars at home, changing the spark plugs on this thing is a little more work than usual. it requires removal of the intake manifold to reach the rear plugs. dont freak out though, it sounds more difficult than it really is. other than that, simple maintenance and tune-ups are easily accomplished. oil filter is conveniently located next to the oil pan and easily accessible. this car is "simple" to maintain. overall great car for my family. does a good job getting the groceries and dropping kids off at school, does great out on the open road!

2006 Dodge Charger, Sun roof leaks, when the wind blows the sand gets inside the car even in the glove compartment, the Gear Shift lock up, because the cheap plastic pin broke. I had to replace the ECM/PCM and the darn car still isn't performing right, Dealer can't fine the problem. I had this car in and out of the dealership for 3 years now, and the dealer still can't locate the problem, they keep telling me its other things like the battery, the plugs, the transmission, I strongly recommend for anyone not to buy a new or older Dodge Charger

I have a 2006 Dodge Charger SE 3.5L V6. It only has 67,000 miles on it and I was just told by my mechanic that my engine is blown! I've read several reviews and found that this is a common problem in the 2006 Charger. NOT good!

I drive a 2007 Dodge Charger with 111,090 miles on it. Recently, randomly the car has shut off, mainly during a stopped position or reverse. The car shuts off, power steering is lost, radio and air remain on. I have taken the vehicle to several auto service centers including Dodge and they all tell me the same thing. Basically, they cannot find out what the problem is. The check engine light never comes on and the codes are always fine. I change the oil every three months and tune up is recently add. The dodge service change the spark plugs and manifold gasket.I still have the problem. They don't know what the problem is.

If you are into looks, this is the car for you. It is one sexy car. If you are like the rest of us that actually worries about money out of your pocket stay the heck away from this car. I bought my 2006 Dodge Charger SE in 2006 with about a couple of thousands miles on it. Since then at 150K I've had to change brakes almost yearly. There are some other minor issues like squeaking and rattling somewhere in the damn engine that I cannot figure out. Just spent $2K to get new bushings, tire rod ends and control arms. The microlamp in the instrument cluster went out, guess what, you have to replace the whole console $$$. Unbelievable..stay away from this car!!!

First an last Mopar product I'll buy. Burns 1 quart of oil for 1,000 miles. (synthetic oil in 3.5L). Had to pay for transmission seal on electric connector to tranny. The transmission selector has also got stuck in park which is a well know defect that will strand you in a parking lot (look up pink little thing on internet). The door hinge squeaks horribly. The factory replacement hinge "new design" looks like it came off of a 1965-79 Impala and GM in the 60's and 70's all had pin problems. The hinge and labor is like $400 at dealer. Air conditioning is poor at best, dealer replaced evaporator, condenser and compressor and air still sucks. I told them finally to replace pressure cut out switch and now air is tolerable and I hope outside temperature does not go above 90. Dealer ripped off Chrysler for over a thousand dollars for the unneeded repair. The duct that feeds air through the console to back seat barely feeds any air. PS the dealer shop broke many of the plastic dash and console parts while doing repair and did not replace them and now I have strange noises from those areas. The cheap Philips brand bulbs(replaced 3 on right side) on rear turn signals kept burning out so I finally bought non-dealer Wagner replacements bulbs and now no blown bulbs. Engine say 3.5 high output HO is a joke, The acceleration is the worse for any car I have ever owned. Stop and ask any COP who has driven a Charger with 3.5 L engine. Ventnor City NJ has 2 of these and the COP told me he has never seen both operate in the same week and could not even engage in a pursuit with it because an electric Prius is faster. The black plastic pins that hold down the cowl and black plastic windshield trim pieces turn white (UV failure of plastic nice quality touch by Chrysler) and dealer rips you off for the price of replacement clips and molding. Save money and spray them with black Krylon Fusion paint in a rattle can. By the way all this happened before I had 25 thousand miles on odometer. Cars are my hobby for past 45 years, and the only saving grace about this car is that it is a pretty car and it handles good. I hate to say this but my next vehicle will be originating from a Japanese company.

My 2007 dodge charger RT act like battery is dead .jump it off and runs good then turn it off and sometimes it drags like it don't want to crank and then when I mash the peddle it want go have to give it gas slow .but I can turn it off and back on and it runs good took it to auto zone and it says nothing is wrong .when I had it cranked took battery cable off and it went dead .but still not showing up nothing wrong .please help

I have had my Dodge Charger R/T 5.7L hemi for over 7 years now. I have 136,000 miles on it. I have had to replace a few items due to wear and tear but that is recommended after 100,000 miles. I love my charger after all these years. It runs great. I have the best service providers who are trustworthy.

My car is a 2006, worst car I could ever have gotten the motor is a mess.I got tune up on the thing and it started running hot never seen nothing like it before...Never will I ever own another Dodge Carger

Bought my 07 in 07 with 6 miles on it. Other than a small trany oil leak that warranty covered, this car is awesome. I still think the 3.5L should have Dual Exhaust. My car gets nice and toasty inside in the winter, but the A/C in the summer is, Ehhh... But I do get the Nice Car as well. 22in Black/Chrome Wheels on the Black Sapphire Paint, with HID Bulbs and Limo Tint windows all around... Damn Sexy indeed... I Also, love my car....

When I first got the car my brakes squeaked alot. The dealer replaced the front pads and it still made noise. Replaced the f&r pads and rotors at about 27K I had the front and rear pads and rotors replaced with Raybestos ATF rotors and their heavy duty brakes. Never heard any squeaking since. I have since gone about 33K miles and the rear brakes wore out and the fronts are still at 7/32. Left the same rotors (they were turned for the new brakes). Have a slow shift when the car is cold. Steering wheel continues a rubbing sound. This vehicle is a police sedan with the 5.7 and it goes. The car is strong a solid.

Front ball joints replaced 3 times in two years. Not the problem
now. I got a engine red light and the code reading is P0108
My plate renewal is 10/30/12 and I've got the pass an E-check.
What can I do to correct this problem. I'm no mechanic to these
newer cars. Can you advise me, what to do. Thanks Joe

my 2008 charger with large v6 and 160,000 miles. When you start the car first thing in the morning the valves rattle on the right bank of the motor. I know the guy that put the first 150k miles on and he said it did it since day one. Dodge says they dont know what is wrong but the parts manager says a common problem pertaining to a oil tube that runs down through the top of the valve train. Question is recall/ rapair both sides at once/ or go to another dealer or fix it myslef. I have been a ford mechanic most of my life so am capable.

2006 SXT, loved this car 'til it hit 70,000 miles. In one week both exhaust manifolds broke in half, not cracked, broken all the way. No, I didn't hit a big bump in the road or anything else. Got those replaced and $1,000 lighter in my wallet. Now the transmission sticks in park. Had to take the console apart, push the magic pink button (which did not work) then pull on the transmission/brake interlock cable which did work. Pretty sure the cable either needs replacing or adjusting, just hate to take it to a Dodge dealer at $125 per hour. I can only wonder what will happen next and how much that will cost me. Think I may go back to Fords, my 1997 F150 has 150K on it and the only major repair was a differential last year.

My 2008 dodge chargers air doesnt work all the time. It will start out working like it should then the air starts blowing up into the dash instead of out the vents. The air is still cold however. Then after the car has been turned off for a while the air starts working normal again.

I had a transmission issue cause it wont go in fourth gear. It was a sensor but thats nothing big but my car wont start up all the starter does is clicks. It has a new battery, starter, alt, and ignition switch and it still wont start. Its still at the dealers.

I don't see the problem. I have a 2007 charger black and alway get "nice car" 47,000 miles. Stop buying used stuff and order one new as I have and you break the car in and you will see the car is outstanding. Never had a problem with my charger.

This Charger has been the best car I've ever had. I have had a couple of minor issues, but were easily fixed. I now have 237,000 miles on this car. It has a 3.5 liter and I have serviced this car very well. I get about 18 mpg in the city, and about 22 on the highways, and it will still beat most cars off the line. These 3.5 liters blow crown vics off the road. I had to replace the driver seat so I guess they could put severe duty fabric in the seats. Around town it is wise to run in 4th gear, or sometimes it lugs if you're doing around 40mph. This has been a tough working car for me.

This car just looks good, thats about it! Same old Dodge, Dodge has had a history of using cheap parts that break. They were notorious for their engine and transmission problems, I had friends and family BEG me not to get this car...I should have listened. I purchased brand new, NOBODY wants to take this car in on a trade due to whats currently going on with Dodge. Had the rotors replaced 5 times due to warping, TOTAL ENGINE replacement, TOTAL Fuel system replacement and now I feel the tranny slipping. Once you get past the HEMI which is about the only thing that I love you can see and feel the cheap build quality. I wish I would have went foreign.....!!!!

Windows fog horribly when all passengers are in the car. Heating / defrosting system does not work very well. Looks cool, smells good, neat to drive, BUt... not comfortable for longer trips. Might trade in later for a camaro or another auto brought back to life.

I am back. I got my 2006 Dodge Charger back from the dealership 3 times now. They could not find the problem with the transmission not wanting to shift into 2nd gear. After they put it on the diagnostic machine and drove it about 8 miles. So, not too long after I left the dearlership, I was driving my car around town to see if it would do the same thing again. And it started acting up, my car didn't want to shift into 2nd (after driving it for about 12 miles). Same thing, it was only able to go around 40mph. and not wanting to shift into 2nd gear. So I drove it back to the dealership and they came out and said do not put it into park just put the emerg. brakes on and that way we can let the shop foreman drive it and he can see what is wrong with it. A day later they called and said it's the sensor switch in the transmission. Which is what I was told it probably was from you (Repair Pal) a few weeks ago. So they ordered the part and it should be in tom. and then they will put it on. I guess I will have to see if this works. AND THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT IT'S FREE OF CHARGE DUE TO AN older RECALL. I pray this works... Please, please, please work...... Not having a car is so frustrating. Especially when I have 2 more years to pay on it. And it's already having problems. I love this car. And it runs awesome other than this gear thing. I hope the sensor makes it new again. Thanks for your help. If you can think of anything else I need to know about it, if this sensor doesn't work, then please let me know. Thanks again !! Debrina

2006 Dodge Charger R/T with 5.7 liter hemi - I bought the car used with 7880 miles on it. By 13,000 miles the front brake rotors were warped. I was told by the dealership service adviser that this was a common problem caused by not torquing the lug nuts on the aluminum wheels in a certain pattern and to the proper specs. There is nothing in the owner's manual about the proper method of tightening lug nuts, and I had to find out the (correct) lug nut torque spec from a web site, which I verified through several other sources. The service adviser gave me an incorrect torque spec. The factory warranty on the brakes was only for 12,000 miles, not 36,000 as it is for the rest of the car, so the warped rotors were not covered by warranty. I replaced the rotors but I had to beat the warped ones off with a sledge hammer.
I had to have both the inner and outer tie rod ends replaced before 44,000 miles. The sunroof developed a rattle and the frame retainer bolts had to be replaced before 42, 000 miles. Another common problem, but I found a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for it which resulted in a quick resolution. There is an intermittent "clunking" noise somewhere in the right front when the brakes are lightly applied that the dealership has not been able to isolate. From reading postings on a web site that Charger owners belong to, many of them have had the same problem, as well as other noises elsewhere in their cars that they have not been able to resolve. But the fixes that have gotten rid of the clunking noise for some owners has not got rid of my noise. There is a constant high pitched whine that comes from the dash anytime the headlight switch is on. The volume varies from barely audible to extremely noticeable, even with the stereo on. This is another problem the dealership could not find, mainly because it was barely audible every time I had them check for it. They would not have been able to hear it if they had it in the shop with all the air-powered tools and other noises. The service adviser wasn't able to tell me afterwards if the technician listened for the sound in the parking lot away from the shop, with the engine off, no accessories on, and windows up, liked I asked them to do. I replaced the headlight switch, because that's where it originally sounded like the noise was coming from, but it did not get rid of the noise, and now it sounds more like it is coming from behind the instrument cluster. The hands free Bluetooth cell phone function, which Chrysler calls U-Connect and has previously malfunctioned, is malfunctioning more and more frequently lately. The first time it malfunctioned, the technician showed me how to repair it, by pulling up on a module in the fuse block, waiting about 10 seconds and then pushing it down. I had to do this twice within the following year, and each time it resets the preset radio stations to factory default. Now, in the past 2.5 years, the U-Connect has failed more than a dozen times, and the time interval between failures is decreasing, with the most recent time interval of three weeks between failures. Also, each time it fails, I have to reset the module more each time before I can get it to work (4 times just last week). Eventually, resetting this module will fail to get it working again altogether. This feature is important to me because I sometimes go into an adjacent jurisdiction where you have to use a hands free device to talk on the cell phone while driving, and the police will ticket you if they catch you, and the fine is a hefty one. Unfortunately, the only way I know the U-Connect has stopped working is when either I attempt to make a cell phone call or someone calls me and the U-Connect does not activate to make or accept the call. The dash and door panels are hard, cheap plastic. The paint on the car scratches very easily. The built-in GPS system malfunctioned (error reading DVD-ROM) after I had the car only 2 months and had to get that repaired, as well as get the ashtray door, which I never use, replaced because it would not stay closed. You cannot check the transmission fluid. There is a plug in the top of the dipstick tube that requires a special tool to remove. So, if a transmission fluid leak develops, there is no way to add fluid until you can get it repaired, other than take it to a dealer, or independent shop that has the tool, if they even have it. The car comes from the factory with a hood prop (rod), which is hazardous, because the prop sets just to the left of center when the hood is up, in the front part of the engine compartment, and can easily be knocked out of place when working underneath the hood. The odd thing is that the fittings and holes for hood struts are already in place. It's like it was designed to have hood struts, but for whatever reason, they installed a hood prop instead. Road noise is more than what I expected, but tolerable on a trip if you have the stereo on. Now for the positives on the car. The hemi has plenty of power and the gas mileage isn't that bad for the weight of the car and an engine with the hp and torque that it has. Ride comfort, steering, and handling are pretty good, even though some automotive and consumer magazines have criticized them. Routine maintenance, such as oil and filter changes, other filter changes, brake pad replacement, and replacing the spark plugs and PVC valve, for example, is fairly easy compared to some other late model car engines I've worked on. The front factory brake pads left very little dust on the wheels, compared to the aftermarket replacement ones, and they had hardly any wear on them after 42,000 miles. The only reason I replaced them was because I replaced the rotors and didn't want to put used brake pads that had been used with warped rotors back on. The stereo system, with the higher power Bose amp and 6 speakers, sound really good for an American car factory stereo system. Also, the speakers in the driver and passenger door panels don't vibrate as much as I expected at high volume, like a lot of speakers mounted in a hard plastic door panel usually do. In summary, I like the power of the engine, the stereo system, and the ride comfort, steering, and handling. I have had no problems with the exhaust system or emissions. But, with the problems I've had and unresolved problems I continue to have, I would not buy another Charger nor recommend it to anyone else.

I would not recommend purchasing a Dodge Charger. At 40,000 (just after it went out of warranty) I had to replace the lifters in the engine. I have also had a number of other repairs - overall I don't feel this car is very trustworthy.