This information is excellent! I have read extensively on the theoretical aspects of this topic but your perspective on the practical application and use has widened my understanding of the subject even more. I've also read your other informative topics like competitive shooting for beginners, ect. I keep a particular eye out for your posts. I'm new to this, so thanks a lot for sharing what you know.

I saw a post in a 45/70 forum and they recommended sighting in the weapon at 150 yards. They referenced the bullet trajectory dope at http://www.chuckhawks.com/rifle_trajectory_table.htm that puts the MPBR (maximum point blank range) at 131 to 174 yards (and 150 yards being the median).

I am assuming much of the information you have written here is directly applicable to guns sighted in at 100 yards. How would it change (if at all) for a gun sighted in at 150 or say 300 yards (for a 300WinMag).

See - this is why I don't do long range shooting. It's really more math than anything else. (I hate math).

Why can't we design a self adjusting scope with a built in range finder. So when I put the cross hairs on a target at 50 yards it adjusts to compensate and when I put them on a target at 100 and readjusts.

It's some easy math. Once you understand the concepts, see it explained a few different ways, and use it in practice a few times it becomes pretty simple.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

Nope.
I'm just trying to explain things in plainer language than some of the books I have read.

Nice work. How about expanding the zeroing section to include alternate methods. Like zeroing for point blank range, or zeroing the top stadia line at 100 with a mildot reticle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark94066

What do you see as the value of sighting in at or very near the MPBR?

Maximum point blank range will be defined as a cartridges ability to hit an X sized target with a center hold out to X distance. Lets take a 243 as an example with a 70gr Sierra Matchking doing 3100 fps. Point blank range on an 8" target is 320 yards, zero should be set to 275 yards. Bullet path never goes 4" above, or below, your line of sight. For an 18" target it would be 432 yards, zero should be set at 370 yards.

Nice work. How about expanding the zeroing section to include alternate methods. Like zeroing for point blank range, or zeroing the top stadia line at 100 with a mildot reticle.

I disagree with the concept of "point blank range" and choose not to accept a known error in bullet placement.

I have the ability to dial my scope's knobs or hold off with my scope's reticle for a specific distance so I do that to place my bullets as precisely as possible.

Most people prefer a reticle-centric zero.
It makes for an easier aiming as your eye tries to center things without you even conciously thinking about it.
Also, when you shift your zero away from center, you get larger aiming errors from canting the scope than when you use a reticle-centric zero for the range you are shooting at.

I disagree with the concept of "point blank range" and choose not to accept a known error in bullet placement.

I think moving your zero out farther is a great option especially for a hunter. You know you can take a snap shot on a deer out to 300 yards and you'll hit. It's not accepting a know error, it's accepting a know flight path.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

I have the ability to dial my scope's knobs or hold off with my scope's reticle for a specific distance so I do that to place my bullets as precisely as possible.

Of course you do, if you have a scope like that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

Most people prefer a reticle-centric zero.
It makes for an easier aiming as your eye tries to center things without you even conciously thinking about it.
Also, when you shift your zero away from center, you get larger aiming errors from canting the scope than when you use a reticle-centric zero for the range you are shooting at.

You lost me here. If your saying most people prefer to aim with the center I agree.

First off, most scopes are not centered or don't meet their advertised specs.
Leave yourself about 20moa at the bottom of the elevation travel to account for this.

Also, the optics are best in the middle so placing your 100yd zero at the extreme end of elevation travel means you are using the worst part of the glass at 100yds and again at 1300yds.
If you are only shooting at 600-1000yds, that will get you better image quality as you will be much closer to the center of the scope at those distances.

If you used up ALL of your usable elevation, you would not have any windage travel and it's often necessary to use some windage to get zeroed.
This windage eats up elevation travel at both ends of the elevation range due to the scope being round.
If you had a square scope, then the windage and elevation travels would not limit each other.

In your case, only having 45moa from center and using 5moa to get zeroed leaves you 40/50.
Then you are taking 20moa with the mount so you are at 60/30.
You could put another 10moa in the rings and be OK at 70/20.

So, Randall, this thread is 1688 days old. You posted the above comment on the Ruger thread.

Any thoughts to expanding this process ^^ in the context of "how to use your scope" ?

So, Randall, this thread is 1688 days old. You posted the above comment on the Ruger thread.

Any thoughts to expanding this process ^^ in the context of "how to use your scope" ?

Lesson to be learned is to just use a 20moa scope base and a good scope.
No need to worry about fine tuning the elevation because a 20moa base will keep you in the sweet spot of the scope if you have a quality scope with the necessary elevation travel.

Hello Randall. Thank you sir! I know of no other such place where, and I'm only halfway through reading, such knowledge is compiled in a digestible, succinct manner. I have a better command of the English language than most people, nicely done sir.

You have commented and helped me by explaining these type of things on other threads I've posted here on CG. Please know that your taking the time to write this all out is greatly appreciated. I've done a lot of reading over the last year and a half as I dove into LR Shooting. There is a lot to learn. It is a lot of knowledge to absorb and synthesize into real understanding.

I came to my profession late in life. I always made a point of talking to the senior guys who were my age. But to someone who has been into, anything really, for a very long time, some of this is like breathing. You do it without even thinking about it. Having to explain it is actually frustrating. It slows down the conversation for you.

It takes a certain sort of ordered mind to 'a' take the time to organize this data and 'b' the time and the willingness to do so. Despite the fact that I have learned a lot in the last eighteen months, I am still going to PM you about one specific question please. Still learning here.