I figured out that Grizzly G0490 is an almost identical clone to the DJ-20, and a few others out there. They sell the indeed table for around $220. I can’t wait to hear how much shipping will be. I’d like to find a salvage unit that I can buy locally..

That was a wow moment I am sure. Upgrade or fix, hard to say which way to go.

One thing you and other have mentioned is Delta no longer supplying parts for older machines. Heck of a way to instill confidence that when current generation of machines need parts they won’t do the same thing.

Well, if your looking for design problems, check out that notch they put in the casting with an internal chamfer. Thats called a stress riser. It focuses all of the load at that small point where you see the crack. There is one just like it on the other side of the table.

Clearly you need a heavier built machine. My first jointer threw a knife and bent the out feed and infeed table,opened the knife slot like a can of tuna fish.Don’t even try to fix it lots of great deals on heavy built jointers.

One suggestion you might try…if there is a welding shop you know of that has a TIG machine…..they make a special {expensive} TIG rod for welding cast iron/cast steel with a TIG welder . We used to call it “99” because it is 99% pure nickle. It is expensive, but the rods are 3 foot long and it is sold by the pound. It wasn’t good for welding big intricate castings like cylinder heads or engine blocks, but for small to medium sized machine castings it worked pretty good. Talk to the welder, if he has used it and is comfortable with it then I would sure give it a try. He might have to order the rod and might want some money up front because not every welding shop or supplier keeps it on the shelf because of the price. It’s not crazy high, but when you consider a pound of aluminum rod or chrome moly steel, the whole bundle cost less than one nickle rod {$20-$40}. It works better if you pre-heat the parts first and put them back in an oven afterwards to cool slowly. Once done it is as strong or better than the casting before it broke. Used to use it all the time when I ran a machine shop. Many welders don’t use it or even know it exist. Not sure if they are still in business, but an outfit called “Palco” used to make an excellent cast rod for use with a DC shielded metal arc welder. It was expensive too, but again, not crazy.

Sorry that happened to you. Must have scared the heck out of you. Delta has been through several ownership changes so that might explain why they are not carrying old parts anymore.I’m agree with others. Time for a new Jointer. There is some pretty good iron out there these days and Christmas is very soon.

A thumbs up on doing a weld or braze (uses brass). I have brazed cast iron with brass using my oxy-acetelyne torch. I will strongly advise you to take it to a welder who knows what he is doing as cast iron and its own set of quirks. And make sure the part is properly aligned when doing this. IF the crack runs through a machined area though, you will have to get a machine shop to re-machine the fixed area on the casting, a somewhat expensive cost. You may have to buy a replacement casting if possible.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

One suggestion you might try…if there is a welding shop you know of that has a TIG machine…..they make a special {expensive} TIG rod for welding cast iron/cast steel with a TIG welder . We used to call it “99” because it is 99% pure nickle. It is expensive, but the rods are 3 foot long and it is sold by the pound. It wasn t good for welding big intricate castings like cylinder heads or engine blocks, but for small to medium sized machine castings it worked pretty good. Talk to the welder, if he has used it and is comfortable with it then I would sure give it a try. He might have to order the rod and might want some money up front because not every welding shop or supplier keeps it on the shelf because of the price. It s not crazy high, but when you consider a pound of aluminum rod or chrome moly steel, the whole bundle cost less than one nickle rod {$20-$40}. It works better if you pre-heat the parts first and put them back in an oven afterwards to cool slowly. Once done it is as strong or better than the casting before it broke. Used to use it all the time when I ran a machine shop. Many welders don t use it or even know it exist. Not sure if they are still in business, but an outfit called “Palco” used to make an excellent cast rod for use with a DC shielded metal arc welder. It was expensive too, but again, not crazy.

- msinc

I had an old welder fix up a cracked cast iron head for me once. He used the high nickel rod as you say. Did a bang-up job too. He didn’t do the heat thing, but he did shot peen the heck out of it after welding every half inch or so. He used an air hammer with the shot peen attachment.He told me that helped take the stress out of the weld.

But I’d be inclined to get another jointer. It’s hard to get parts for that thing. I used to work on an identical jointer at another place of employment. I tried to get some gib screws for it several years ago, and there were only 8 in the entire country.