This primo corner location in historic SoNo has been home to several restaurants, but the new Nola Oyster Bar is likely to be the first long-term keeper here.

The expansive space is especially conducive to the party-style ambiance and food that takes its energy from New Orleans, but travels up the coast with seafood favorites from Florida to Maine.

The informal, sophisticated ambiance could be anywhere along the coast with old brick walls, lots of wrought-iron railings, wood topped tables and a sweeping granite bar.

With water views a block away, Nola has to create it's own happy waves and glorious water sunsets, and somehow the place does just that even though the interior is actually a bit dark since its closest point of interest is the Metro-North train trestle soaring overhead.

But don't worry about the peak time train noise. That's about the same peak time along the huge, convivial bar and the noise there can easily drown out the train. Not to worry, however, as there is a comfy, quiet dining room set nicely apart from the bar.

So, if you just want to slurp super-fresh oysters, munch on a crunchy fried chicken sandwich or nosh on seafood gumbo while chatting with friends, belly up to the bar.

If you want to settle in for a leisurely, elegant dinner, ask for dining-room seating and start with a sophisticated kale and squash salad dotted with toasted hazelnuts, pears and pepitas.

Then follow with the ultra-rich butter poached lobster and grilled scallions heaped atop slightly sweet, crisp-edged cornbread waffles. Since at least half of the folks in the dining room on our visit had ordered and were swooning over this dish, it's safe to assume that the lobster will soon be a Nola signature, though it was a tad too cloying for this reviewer.

As is almost a constant these days, highlights of the menu often center on the small plate lists, and one could easily make a hearty meal here alone. Many options are American classics with a twist.

New England clam chowder is given a Southern twist with smoky ham hocks gently flavoring the milky broth. Mussels are braised in beer and finished with a dab of chipotle butter for crisp toasts.

Cornmeal fried oysters are served on a bed of collard greens with pickled onions, speck and a bearnaise dipping sauce, all of which are intriguing though these excellent oysters get a bit sidetracked with all of these flavor hits.

Roasted oysters, however, are perfection with just a hint of chipotle and crisp bacon-studded breadcrumbs. Clam poutine is another over the top creation with the kitchen's excellent hand-cut fries zipped up with blackening spices, rich clam gravy, bacon and melted cheddar.

Side dishes are also upgrades of classics, such as grits with cheddar and scallions, beer-braised greens and a composition of marinated beets, blueberries and blue cheese. A standout, however, is fried Brussels sprout leaves with salty bacon, sweet maple, tart vinegar and pistachios. Note to sprout haters -- you won't even know they are here with all those other flavors.

A main course might seem like an unnecessary afterthought, but several are well worth ordering. Shrimp and grits with pickled jalapeno and tasso is well-balanced. Griddled scallops are enhanced with smoky potato puree, creamy leeks, mussels and a "speck" of speck.

But perhaps best of all is a truly great burger with mushrooms, bacon, fried onions and black pepper mayo.

Desserts are more of the same updated classic theme. Cornmeal bread pudding sports bourbon caramel sauce. Strawberry panna cotta has granola and hazelnuts for crunch. Our biggest surprise, and favorite sweet, is a bittersweet rendition of the usual warm chocolate cake, but here fabulously upgraded with boozy candied cherries in the center. This deliciously outrageous dessert would be even better with a cooling scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Nola Oyster Bar is big, brassy, and fun and so is the food and the service. It's a great new addition to the SoNo dining scene.