It's a casual, pleasant purveyor of mostly familiar Italian, with some American pit stops: to New England for littlenecks steamed in white wine, to St. Louis for some toasted ravioli and over to Philly for a respectable cheesesteak. But pizza is the star of the show, offered in a 14-inch medium and 18-inch large. It's a good crust recipe, crisp and tooth resistant, with enough oven heat to yield those black bubbles. Toppings go simple (margherita), sophisticated (white, with grilled chicken and ricotta) or kitchen-sink (six toppings).