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Pink Planet: Everyone joins in on the fun in Perth

Western Australia’s frontier capital has a lively gay scene despite its conservative reputation.

Just west of Perth are a string of beatiful beaches, some of which are particularly gay-friendly. Cyclists passing Cottesloe on the bike path are treated to a spectacular view from the Cottesloe Sundial. (julia steinecke / for the toronto star)

Mizz Fanta-sea performs, while hosting Amateur Drag night at The Court, one of two gay bars in Perth, Australia.
(julia steinecke photo / for the toronto star)

PERTH, AUSTRALIA—“Let’s rumble!” says a drag queen wearing an orange negligee, and the mud begins to fly. It’s Lesbian Mud Wrestling night at Connections nightclub, ( www.connectionsnightclub.com) and there’s a huge turnout late on a Wednesday night. Pairs of women, in their underwear, take turns slip-sliding on each other in an inflatable tub. The crowd moves forward for a better view. When I catch a glimpse, though, my gaydar flatlines and I begin to wonder if the wrestlers are really lesbians. Looking into the crowd, I see a straight-looking man dancing quietly behind a young blonde woman, cupping his hand towards her buttocks, just in case she happens to step back a little.

Locals describe Perth as small and conservative, but it’s the fastest-growing city in Australia. The gay and lesbian scene is integrated, with men and women partying together, along with an invasion of straight people that brings out a mixed reaction among LGBT folks, just like in Sydney. Some see it as a natural stage in the dissolving of boundaries and discrimination.

“We own a culture that has stories and music,” explains Tim Brown the co-owner of Connections. “How do we hang on to, keep alive and celebrate that culture whilst integrating with the wider community?”

Drag culture is alive and well, earlier the same night, at Perth’s other gay bar, The Court ( www.thecourt.com.au). A mixed crowd, a bit less straight-leaning, gathers in the patio to watch Mizz Fanta-sea, elegant in her white pant suit with a sparkly bikini top tucked inside the blazer. She’s hosting Amateur Drag night, where we’re treated to a rare drag king show by a pencil-bearded performer named Shrek. Afterwards, a guy brandishing a black cape strikes a pose for his friends, pretending to gnaw on the breast of a young woman in his group. It’s all very fluid.

Two gay bars might not seem like much, but there are other places to go around Perth. On Saturday afternoon, I drop in to the Loton Park tennis club ( www.lotonpark.com.au), an LGBT oriented group with their own clubhouse. Members are chatting on the wraparound porch when, suddenly, an old-fashioned school bell rings and they jump up and head to their designated spots for the next rotation on the eight courts. “Like Pavlov’s dogs,” quips one member. Dating back the early 1900s Loton is one of the oldest tennis clubs in Perth, and in the mid 1990s, a few gay members invited their friends, who, in turn, invited their friends, and so on. Of course, anyone of any orientation is welcome to join and visitors can also buy a day pass. It’s a mix of recreational and competitive playing—last year, three of their five teams won in their divisions.

The clouds hang heavily over the players that day, but everyone assures me it won’t rain, and they’re right. The next day dawns crisp and clear and I take my bike on the Transperth train. Cycling is a great option for leisure as well as everyday transportation in this otherwise car-oriented city—there are enough bike paths and quiet streets to get almost anywhere.

I’m heading out of town, to Fremantle a coastal city favoured by lesbians and other “alternative” folks, though on Sunday it’s packed with mainstream inner city escapees. At a food court near the Fremantle Markets I meet with Amy Henderson, then, editor of the local LGBT scene publication, Out in Perth ( www.outinperth.com). She turns out to be a genuine lesbian mud wrestling alumnus.

“I won my initial round… by ducking and dodging a hot butch twice my size.” In the final round, she says, her two challengers went topless, winning them the title. “Although, with all those naked breasts I guess it was a win for me too.”

Julia Steinecke ( www.facebook.com/juliatravels) is a Toronto-based freelance writer. Her visit to Perth was subsidized by Tourism Australia, Qantas, Pension of Perth, and About Bike Hire.

The Freedom Centre ( www.freedom.org.au) works with LGBT/queer youth under 26; they welcome young travellers and may provide volunteer work opportunities.

The Chameleon Society of Western Australia ( www.chameleonswa.com) welcomes trans and cross-dressing visitors to their events—contact them first. Transguyswestoz ( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/transguyswa) connects transmen in the area. On Facebook, look up “ZOO Club-Perth” for some queer and trans-friendly events.

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