9 Beauty Treatment Mishaps You Can Avoid

Prevent the harmful side effects associated with popular hair, skin and nail procedures

We've heard the horror stories. After getting a manicure, a friend's nail begins oozing with infection, or following a chemical hair-straightening treatment, a coworker's hair starts falling out in clumps. Which got us thinking: How often do these cosmetic catastrophes occur, and are they preventable? Read on to see what industry insiders say, along with what measures you can take to avoid becoming a victim of a beauty disaster.

Brazilian Blowout

The Brazilian blowout—a wildly popular hair-straightening treatment, which applies a mixture of keratin and formaldehyde (a known carcinogen) to the hair before it is blown out and flat-ironed at 450 degrees—can leave your tresses incredibly silky. But, when proper protocol isn't followed or if the mixture contains unsafe levels of formaldehyde, clients can experience devastating side effects, the most common of which is hair loss, according to John Sickles, director of the Salon Professional Academy.

How to avoid a mishap: Hair-straightening treatments like the Brazilian blowout always involve a certain level of risk since the chemicals and high heat have a more severe effect on some hair follicles than others. But if you're still considering the treatment, choose an experienced salon and be sure to tell your stylist upfront about any allergies or recent hair treatments, says Sickles, who also owns Jon Lori Salon. Make sure the salon uses a recognized smoothing formula that contains an approved level of formaldehyde (depending on the regulatory health advisor—FDA, OSHA, Health Canada—the percentage varies). Based on our research, we recommend KeraGreen hair-smoothing products, which contain .0011% formaldehyde. Also, since traces of formaldehyde linger in your system after each procedure, avoid repeated treatments, says Troy Raszka, marketing director at Organic Color Systems. Finally, to limit your exposure to formaldehyde, make sure the salon has an approved air ventilation system. Though there's no organization regulating this, Sickles's salon uses Aerovex to filter the carcinogen from the air and he recommends finding out if your salon has a similar ventilation system. Photo: Thinkstock

Laser Hair Removal

Many doctors, including board-certified dermatologist Debra Wattenberg, MD, recommend this treatment, but if you don't follow pre- and post-procedure protocol, hyperpigmentation (skin discoloration), burning, blistering and scarring can occur.

How to avoid a mishap: The technician is responsible for choosing the right laser setting for your skin type and hair growth, but your job, as a consumer, is critical, too. "A client should stay out of the sun three to four weeks before and following the procedure," says Barry Herman, owner of the Berkowits School Laser Hair Institute in New York. Since the laser is attracted to pigment, limiting your exposure to sun in the weeks leading up to the procedure helps prevent it from burning your skin, he explains. After the procedure, UV rays can send pigment-producing cells into turbo-drive, since they're in an excited state from the laser, possibly resulting in skin discoloration. "Limiting your sun exposure gives them a chance to cool off," says Herman. Photo: Thinkstock

Manicures/Pedicures

If your biggest manicure mishap is a shoddy polish job, consider yourself lucky. Some salon-goers, like singer Paula Abdul, who publicly battled a thumbnail infection she says she picked up at a Los Angeles nail salon, are less fortunate. In 2000, 113 California women made the news after contracting the first-ever cases of Mycobacterium fortuitum—a bacterial infection caught via open wound (like a shaving nick) that produces purple, pus-filled bumps—from an infested pedicure tub.

How to avoid a mishap: Before you get comfy in the chair, look for a prominently displayed operating license. Before a salon opens (and then usually once a year after that), it is required to pass a health inspection test and display the license, explains Rosanne Kinley, past president of the National Interstate of State Boards of Cosmetology. If you don't bring your own tools with you, make sure the salon's have been properly disinfected, which means that they've been fully immersed in an EPA-approved disinfectant for at least 10 minutes. All disinfectants are required to be bactericidal, fungicidal and veridical, and are usually—but not always—a clear blue color. "The UV sanitizers, which look like toaster ovens, are not effective," Kinley says. Finally, for pedicures, see to it that the tub has been properly cleaned. "Between each customer, salons are required to drain the tub, spray and let disinfectant sit for 10 minutes and then rinse," says Kinley. If the disinfectant doesn't sit, it doesn't have time to kill bacteria. "I'd recommend getting to the salon early to make sure the tub you're using is properly disinfected," says Kinley. Photo: Thinkstock

Botox

Botox (a.k.a. Botulin) is a treatment used to remove wrinkles by temporarily paralyzing localized facial muscles. However, when not injected by a professional, risks include everything from temporary bruising and redness to longer-lasting side effects, like droopy brows, "stuck" features and asymmetry, according to Dr. Wattenberg.

How to avoid a mishap: Because the results are always dependent on both the injector's technique and the potency of the product, it's important to go to a medical specialist for treatment, says Dr. Wattenberg. But that's not the only reason to skip the Botox party and head to your dermatologist for a lift: Many off-the-market formulas are too potent, which can cause droopiness when administered. Plus, a doctor with a trained eye will know whether your features could present obstacles. For example, if you have heavy eye features, brow-line injections can make you look tired, she says. Photo: Thinkstock

Chemical Peels

A chemical peel is essentially the process of creating a controlled scab on the outer layer of your skin, which then "peels" off to reveal a new, refreshed-looking layer of skin. But when the process is done carelessly, a patient can experience burning, irritation and discoloration, says Dr. Wattenberg.

How to avoid a mishap: In general, spas offer weaker chemical peels than an MD or MD-supervised office, explains Lynn McKinley-Grant, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at Georgetown University. But either way, make sure your provider is adhering to safe standards, she says. What you should expect: 1) A full skin analysis, during which the provider should inquire about recent sun exposure, medications, allergies and connective tissue diseases like scleroderma, among other things. "It's really a full history," Dr. McKinley-Grant says, which helps determine if you are a good candidate for a peel along with the type of peel you'll need; 2) a full explanation of what the peel is addressing, whether acne or a precancerous growth; 3) a coating of petroleum jelly on sensitive areas of your skin, such as creases, which can accumulate more acid buildup than other areas on your face; 4) monitoring. For stronger peels, the provider should be with you at all times to detect redness or discomfort, explains Dr. McKinley-Grant. Photo: Shutterstock

UV Nail Dryers

In early 2011, Texas-based dermatologist Richard Langley, MD, went on the record saying that UV nail dryers raise the risk of cancer, pointing to published studies of young patients who had very little evidence of sun damage elsewhere but developed skin cancers around their nails. Not to mention the fact that many dermatologists have discouraged the dryers for years. But nail professionals, like David Valia, MD, director of research and development for Creative Nail Designs, disagree, saying UV dryers emit less radiation than a day spent under fluorescent office lights. Nevertheless, since sun damage is cumulative—and any exposure to a known carcinogen isn't helping the cause—the argument has made many weary.

How to avoid a mishap: If you're worried about the proven cumulative effects of sun damage (which, according to Dr. Wattenberg, can be anything from hyperpigmentation to cancer), then simply don't turn on the UV light. Instead, use the machine's fan by itself. Photo: Shutterstock

Hair Extensions

Hair extension techniques can include clipping, sewing, tubing or braiding. However, the most popular treatment currently on the market is hot or cold fusion, which bonds the artificial hair to the root of your natural hair using either glue (hot) or a polymer (cold). But for some people, hair extensions have resulted in the opposite effect: hair loss.

How to avoid a mishap: One cause of hair loss from extensions is weak hair. "To withstand fusion extensions, your hair must be healthy," says Pam Guzzo, a stylist at the Jon Lori Salon. "It can be thin and fine, but it needs to be strong," she says, adding that your stylist should be able to tell whether you're a good candidate or not. If you do opt for extensions, keep in mind that you get what you pay for. "A better brand will carry healthier hair, which blends better with your own hair and tangles less," Guzzo says. Since, during the detangling process, you pull on your natural hair, limiting the amount of tangles helps reduce hair loss. After that, maintenance matters! "Be aware of where the bonds are when brushing and shampooing," she says. If you aggravate them enough, you could weaken them, causing breakage at the root. "If you take care of them, they'll take care of you." And finally, if you opt for hot fusion, consider doing a patch test to make sure you're not allergic to the glue. Photo: Thinkstock

Eyelash Extensions

The negative effects of false eyelashes mimic the negative effects of hair extensions. If you're not an ideal candidate or don't use a good product, they could damage or weaken your lashes, which may cause you to tug them out. "Trauma to the eyelid or picking at lashes can destroy the hair follicle, resulting in fewer, thinner eyelashes or even permanent hair loss," says Dr. Wattenberg.

How to avoid a mishap: If you opt for a temporary "strip" extension, invest in a good glue dissolvent to remove them, says Stephanie Sickles, stylist at Jon Lori Salon. Not only will this prevent you from ripping out your real lashes if the extensions become bothersome, but it will also help remove the harsh glue, which can wreak havoc on your eyelids' delicate skin. If you choose professional-grade eyelash extensions—small fibers applied to each individual eyelash by a professional that grow out with your natural lashes—you can avoid most problems by investing in a high-quality product (Sickles suggests Lavish Lash) and combing your lashes regularly, both of which prevent them from tangling and falling out. Photo: Shutterstock

Hair Bleaching

The ammonia used in coloring treatments is what damages hair. As the oxidizer in coloring products, it works to open the hair cuticle to let in (dyeing) or remove (bleaching) color. But opening the cuticle also strips the hair of its moisture, which causes it to become dry to the point of being brittle, possibly leading to breakage.

How to avoid a mishap: We suggest going to a salon that uses an ammonia-free "lightening" formula, like Organic Color Systems' NaturLite, a powder that contains hydrolyzed wheat protein in lieu of ammonia, which both oxidizes and moisturizes the hair, allowing for more frequent treatments, according to Raszka. But if you're set on an ammonia-based product, TRESemmé stylist Tyler Laswell says, "Try to stick with one colorist." He or she will be familiar with your hair's personality, and will better understand how much bleach it can withstand, along with how frequently it needs to be treated, explains Laswell, who says the recommended time for "blonding" services is anywhere from four to six weeks. Photo: Thinkstock

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