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For generations, ports — those marvelous end-of-the-meal fortified wines — have been produced in Portugal’s Douro Valley. Some of them are bottled young when they are big, bold, and fruity, and the best of these are declared by their producers as vintage port, identified by the year that the grapes were picked. These are aged in the bottle. Other ports are aged in large wooden vats where they become rounded, more amber in color, and very smooth and nutty; the best of these are called aged tawny port.

In many ways, port is made the way it was a century ago. For example, grapes for many of the best vintage ports are still stomped — tread is the word they use — by human feet. Yet much has changed, for the better, with advanced extraction, fermentation, and aging methods.

One of the best and most famous port enterprises is that of the Symington family, which owns such legendary brands as Graham’s, Cockburn’s, Dow’s, Warre’s, and Quinta do Vesuvio. What could be more intriguing than an invitation from the Symingtons to spend a week with them during harvest? It won’t be my first harvest in the Douro, but I looking forward to see some historic estates. I hop on a plane one night in Philadelphia, and the next morning I am in Portugal.

Roger Morris writes about wine, food, and travel for several publications including Robb Report, Wine Enthusiast, Intermezzo, Sante', Sommelier Journal, Beverage Media, Drinks, Drinks Business (UK), Plaisirs de Vivre (Canada) and Sommelier News. He also contributes to the regional publications The Hunt, Signature Brandywine and ccdwell.com. Morris is also author of the blog, Been There Tasted That (http://beentheretastedthat.blogspot.com/), and may be contacted at londonbritain@msn.com.