Models in oversized knit caps sported blazers with multiple lapels, their slouchy pants tucked into high-top motorcycle boots. Others wore zip-up jackets over sweatpants - which have emerged as a popular legwear choice on Paris catwalks.

"I'm not a real grunge fanatic or whatever, but if grunge means deconstructed tailoring and comfort, I'm fine with that," Van Assche, who also designs for Dior Homme, told The Associated Press in a backstage interview.

In what looked like an homage to the late Nirvana frontman's fabric of choice, Van Assche sent out layered suits in somber plaid and topped off suits in solid black or charcoal with navy paid shirts with their sleeves scrunched up.

"I was trying to get the silhouette right, which is not to easy," he said.

Van Assche said he saw the 2010-2011 show, his eleventh season, as a return to his roots, when he used to turn out three-piece suits paired with chunky tennis shoes for a sporty edge.