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EER3001K02SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for EER3001K02SS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Turned off circuit breaker to range.Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed.The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved.Removed range draw under the oven and pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals.Reinstalled new element and metal backing.Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place. Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet.Reinstalled drawer and racks.Turned on circuit breaker.Tested element by setting bake cycle on.

The baking assembly in the oven burst into flames one day, then broke apart.

After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation, they are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.

removed the oven racks. used a 6.5 mm socket to take out two bolts. pulled out old element and wires through insulation into oven. i used caution during this part i didn't want the wires to disconnect and fall into the oven. once the wires and element was pulled out approximately 3 inches. i used two magnet clips that hold papers onto the refrigerator and clipped both wires so they wouldn't go back into the stove. disconnected the element from the wires and connected the new element to the wires. pushed wires into the back of the oven and tightened the two 6.5 mm bolt. done in 10 minutes. turned oven on to 400 degrees and let same pre heat. a little smoke will come from the new element which is normal. works fine now.

Broiler element failed

repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connection..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..

After I got the right part(I ordered the wrong one at first, my fault) it was simple to remove the old element, 2 screws and push on termilnals, and replace with perfectly fitting new part. Word of caution, turn off the breaker to stove. I found that the element line is hot even if the control is off!

After removing the back of the range the oven control board was visible and accessible by removing four nuts. There was some resistance removing the leads from the oven coils and light-bulb mechanisms but with some leverage and pliers they came loose. The only challenge was the face plate of the unit is attached using adhesive and needed to be carefully peeled off and added to the new oven control board. Getting this right was just a matter of taking time and lining up the components correctly. After applying the face, the new control board went right in. I reattached the back, plugged the unit back in, and the over has worked great for the past week. Part select being able to identify the part numbers listed from the component likely saved me at least $100 of having a GE certified repair technician come in.

Plastic drawer support snapped off

The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.

Oven wouldn't preheat above 300 degrees

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.

I (1) pulled the oven away from the wall to get the back of it exposed. Then I (2) pulled the plug out to make sure there was no electrical current. Then I (3) opened the oven door and tugged on the broken heating element to see how tightly it was connected in the back of the oven. Next I (4) went to the back again and slid the silver-colored metal cover that protected the exposed electrical wiring for the oven. I (5) observed that there were a number of different colored wires held in place by screws as well as some wires that disappeared into the insulation, so I (6) went back to the front of the oven and pushed the broken heating element backward to determine if its wiring would become visible from the back of the stove. I (7) observed from teh back that it did. From that point, I (8) pulled the heating element's wiring connections through the insulation until it was visible. The I (9) unscrewed the two nuts connecting the heating element to the oven's wiring. Then I (10) went back to the front and pulled the broken heating element out and (11)inserted the new heating element. Then I (12) returned to the back and connected the loose wires to the heating element and (13) pushed the heating element forward into the oven. I (14) went around to the front to ensure the heating element was positioned the same way in the oven as the old one was, then in the back (15) replaced the metal shield over the wiring and isulation, (16) plugged the oven back in and (17) turned the oven baking setting on to a high temperature to test the new element (i.e., that it was connected correctly and actually worked). I (18) observed that the oven began heating up quickly to the proper temperature, and I was greateful the new bake element worked as good the original part. I then (19) turned the oven off and pushed it all the way back to its place against the wall.

The repair job was not effortless (about 15-20 minutes) but was simple enough NOT to require an electrician. The most difficult part was physically sliding the stove out and back into its tight place between our counters.