Our survey of 18th-early 19th century English and American cookbooks confirms fruit ice creams were probably the most popular. Most cookbooks of the day contained several recipes for
flavored creams, including one recipe especially for ice cream. In theory, any sweet cream recipe could be processed to become ice cream. Most period
cookbooks note that any type of fruit may be used.

Which flavors were available in the 18th century?
People have been adding flavors to ice/ice cream right from the beginning! Ice cream began as
granita (ice). This product was often flavored with fruit or honey. In the 18th century
when the first ice creams (as we know them today) were produced, they were likewise flavored. Period recipes are excellent
indicators of popular flavorings:

"...any collected manuscript from the last quarter of the seventeenth century will surely have recipes involving
chocolate; chocolate
became the rage among ladies and those who would be."
---Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery, transcribed by Karen Hess [Columbia University Press:New York] 1981, 1995 (p. 451)

"Chocolate, coffee, and tea were the three important new beverages in seventeenth-century Europe, and they were all used to make
unfrozen creams. Menon made creams with all three...But these creams were all creams, not ice creams. It took some time before
all thee of the new beverages were transformed into frozen creams and ices. Emy made chocolate and coffee ice creams and mousses and chocolate
ices...He introduced his recipe 'Glace de Creme au Cacao' by explaining that cacao was the nut with which one makes chocolate. He
described four types, with different shapes and degrees of bitterness and fattiness, and said all could be used to make ice
cream. aid it was necessary to understand how to distinguish among them, and that it was important to choose large heavy ones with
no green or raw taste or mold. One bought cacao at a spice shop or from chocolate makers, either roasted or not, according to Emy. Naturally,
he included detailed instructions for roasting it. His recipe 'Glace de Creme au Cacao' was more complex than his usual cremes
glaces. It was also unusual in its use of egg whites rather than yolks. He started by making a glace royale, which is an icing
sugar made with stiffly beaten egg whites and sugar...Emy mixed cream into it and cooked it slowly, stirring it carefully until
it thickened. Then he added two more ounces of roasted cacao and cooked the mixture in a bain marie, or warm water bath, until
the flavor of the chocolate permeated the cream. After an hour and a half to two hours, he strained the mixture, then chilled
it and froze it. He suggested adding a little ambergris, cinnamon, or vanilla, and he said he didn't think it was possible to make
a better ice cream of its type. Emy also made what he called a glace de creme au chocolate blanc, but it was not made with
white chocolate. He said it was made the same way as his glace de creme au cacao, except that, before putting the cream on the fire,
he added half grain of ambergis, half a vanilla bean, and two grains of cinnamon. He said it would be 'delicious' (his
italics). His recipe for chocolate ice, 'Glace de Chocolate L'Eau,' was less complicated. He simply melted some bon chocolate de
sante, or 'good chocolate of health,' mixed it with sugar syrup cooked to the petit lisse stage, strained it, and froze it.
He said if one wished, one could use chocolate a vanille and add vanilla, clove, and lemon."
---Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making, Jeri Quizno [University of California Press:Berkeley] 2009 (p. 41-42)
[NOTE: Emy's book was titled The Art of Ice Cream. It was published in Paris, 1768.]

[1894]
"The Origin of Ice Cream. The man who invented ice cream was a Negro by the name of Jackson, and in the early part of the present century kept a small
confectionery store. Cold custards, which were cooled after being made by setting them on a cake of ice, were very fashionable, and Jackson conceived the idea
of freezing them, which he did by placing the ingredients in a tin bucket and completely covered with ice. Each bucket contained a quart, and was sold for $1.
It immediately became popular, and the inventor soon enlarged his store, and when he died left a considerable fortune A good many tried to follow his example,
and ice cream was hawked about the streets, being wheeled along very much as the hokey-pokey carts are now, but none of them succeeded in obtaining the flavor
that Jackson had in his product.--Baker's Helper."---New York Times, March 11, 1894 (p. 18) [NOTE: this information was reprinted verbatim in the Grand Union Cook Book, Margaret Compton [Grand Union Tea Co.:New York] 1902 (p. 291)

[1928]
"Augustus Jackson, a Philadelphia Negro, was the first to make America's favorite frozen confection--ice cream--according to the records in the possession of
citizens living in the City of Brotherly Love. In 1832 there were five Negro confectioners in Philadelphia. One of them was Jackson, know in his day and time as
'the man who invented ice cream.' He also was a caterer. For an extended period he enjoyed a monopoly of the sale of this dessert. He demanded $1 a quart,
and had no difficulty selling all he made...The Jackson establishment was in what was then known as Goodwater Street, now St. James, between Seventh and
Eight streets. After his death his daughter continued the business for several years on Walnut street, near Tenth street. Members of the Jackson family, with their
limited facilities, were unable to meet the public demand for ice cream, and other confectioners and caterers, principally Negroes, began making it to their financial
advantage."---"Philly Citizen Was First Maker of Ice Cream," Lester A. Walton, The Pittsburgh Courier, May 19, 1928 (p. 12)

[1932]
"Ice cream, a more universally distinctive American dish than many others which through of earlier introduction are sectional in character, was invented by Augustus
Jackson, a Negro confectioner, who was prominent here during the latter half of the 19th century."---"Social Worker Cites Contributions of Negro to
Philadelphia's Progress," Wayne Hopkins, Philadelphia Tribune, June 2, 1932 (p. 9)

[1989]
This contemporary print source by a respected USA reference book publisher declares Mr. Augustus credit as fact:
"Inventions of free blacks were...recorded. The first black granted a patent was probably Henry Blair's 1834 seed planter patent. But again, records fail the
historian for the race of patent-seekers was rarely noted...Other black inventions were not patented for various reasons, as was the case with ice cream, invented
by Augustus Jackson of Philadelphia in 1832."
---The Negro Almanac: A Reference Work on the African American, Harry A. Ploski & James Williams [Gale Research:Detroit] 5th edition 1989 (p. 1077)

[1995]
"In the late 1820s, Augustus Jackson, who had worked as a cook at the While House, moved to Philadelphia and started a
catering business. Jackson became one of Philadelphia's wealthiest African Americans, making ice cream for his own
clientele and also supplying two ice cream parlors owned by African Americans. (At least one source has erroneously credited
Jackson with being the first American to make ice cream."
---Chocolate, Strawberry, and Vanilla: A History of American Ice Cream, Anne Cooper Funderburg [Bowling Green State
University Popular Press:Bowling Green OH] 1995(p. 14)
[NOTE: Ms. Funderburg supplies footnotes for her facts. Let us know if you want them.]

"In French cuisine, a la mode (literally 'in the fashion') refers to a dish of beef braised with vegetables and served either hot in a rich brown sauce or cold in aspic. It
has some currency in English in the eighteenth century and nineteeth centuries in the compressed form alamode beef. In the USA, however, a la mode denotes a
dish (such as apple pie) served with ice cream."
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 216)

The Oxford English Dictionary [Online version] places the first print reference to "a la mode" meaning with ice ream on top in 1903 (see definition 1b)

"[Fr., in the manner or fashion (15th c. in Littré), adopted in Eng. in 17th c. as an adv., and used also as adj. and n. In the advb. sense now again treated as Fr. Formerly often written all-a-mode, as if containing all. Cf. all alive, all-agog.]
1. a. phr. In the fashion, according to the fashion.
1649 SELDEN Laws of Eng. I. lxxi. (1739) 198 Commanders that are never a-la-mode but when all in Iron and Steel. 1655 FULLER Ch. Hist. I. 14 With Bands, Cuffs, Hats and Caps, ‘al a mode’ to the Times. 1657 SANDERSON Serm. (ed. 4) Pref. 1, I confess they are not Alamode. 1680-1 Roxb. Bal. (1883) IV. 631 And All-a-mode of the brisk Monsieur, In the midst of the Pit, like ourselves we do sit. 1751 CHESTERFIELD Lett. 241 (1792) III. 108 If you can get that name generally at Paris, it will put you à la mode.
b. Cookery. Of a dessert: served with ice-cream. U.S.
1903 Everybody's Mag. VIII. 6/2 Tea and buns,..apple pie à la mode and chocolate were the most serious menus. 1928 Delineator Cook Bk. 734 ‘Pie a la mode’ is pie served with ice-cream. 1949 L. P. DE GOUY Pie Book 65 Apple Pie... Serve warm or cold, with cheese, a la mode or with whipped cream. 1971 ‘D. HALLIDAY’ Dolly & Doctor Bird v. 67 We had..apple pie à la mode. À la mode in the United States means ice-cream. 1985 N.Y. Times XXI. 29/3 Highlights are the chocolate mousse cake, with its intense, creamy filling, and the nearly black chocolate cake, served à la mode in a pool of surprisingly insipid butterscotch sauce."

This historic newspaper article suggests professional baseball players might have been responsible for promoting this combination:
"Major league ball players as a class, race, or division of society, whichever they might be called are about as free from the ordinary weaknesses of the flesh as any
body of men in the world. Wine, women and song trouble them very little in the playing season, and even their gambling is of that mild and friendly nature which
makes it more of a pastime than a means of enriching one' self. But there is one great vice among the athletes; on from which comparatively few of them are free.
Eating ice cream is this failing...The Tigers are particularly gripped by this gastronomic vice and on several occasions this spring they have cleaned the hotels that
entertained them of every bit of ice cream sherbet, punch and frozen pudding...The big leaguers are great people to eat sweets...Pie runs next to ice cream in
popularity, though it is a poor second. The rest of the play on the dessert division of the card is scattering, with no single article worthy to be mentioned in the same
breath as ice cream, pie and pie 'a la mode.'"
---"Ice Cream Consumption Vice Among Big Leaguers," Los Angeles Times, May 10, 1913 (p. III4)

"Pie a la mode particularly appears to have the community in its clutches."
---"Too Much Pie Beat Quakers," Los Angeles Times, November 12, 1914 (p. III2)

Sunset [magazine] published a story titled "Pie a la mode," by Frank Condon, June 1923 (p. 20-22)

Who "invented" Baked Alaska?
There are four competing stories; two American, two French. The key to discovering the truth is examining the original source for credibility and context. And? Whenever
possible, a identifying a description of the dish in question. There are significant differences between "invented," "introduced," and "made popular."

1. Americans love to credit Thomas Jefferson for serving the first Baked Alaska in 1802. Primary accounts,
published 70 years later, confirm he served a dessert composed warm ice cream in pastry shell. This precursor was not a "true" Baked Alaska, but it was similar in effect.

2.Charles Ranhofer, Delmonico's New York City, marking the occasion of Seward's Alaska purchase, 1867. Print evidence
strongly suggests this claim is true. It also makes sense in place and context. According to The Oxford English Dictionary, the first print reference to "Baked Alaska" occured in 1882.
"5. orig. U.S. A dessert consisting of sponge cake and ice cream covered with meringue, cooked in a hot oven for a very short time so that the ice cream does not melt (usu. more fully baked Alaska). With distinguishing word: a specified variety of this. Also with lower-case initial.
The naming of this dessert is attributed to Delmonico's restaurant, New York, where it was designed to commemorate the Alaska Purchase; there are earlier examples of similar desserts consisting of ice cream baked in a pastry shell.
1882 G. A. Sala Amer. Revisited I. vi. 90, I dined at Delmonico's hard by the Fifth Avenue Hotel... Among the dainties..was an entremet called an ‘Alaska’. The
‘Alaska’ is a baked ice..surrounded by an envelope of carefully whipped cream which..is popped into the oven."
Delmonico's: A Century of Splendor/Lately Thomas reiterates: "...[Sala] was served a 'baked Alaska'--an incredible confection...consisting of ice cream in an envelope of whipped cream, the whole toasted in the
oven! (The dish had been invented by Ranhofer at the time of Secretary of State Seward's purchase of Alaska for the United States.)" (p. 191).

Larousse Gastronomique (1938, 1961) provides these theories:
"It is said that the invention of the surprise omelette, called 'a la norgvegienne', is attributed to an American-born physicist called Benjamin Thompson whose work in
England earned him the title of Count Benjamin Thompson Rumford. This omelette was launched into popularity about 1895, at the Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo, by Jean Giroux, who was then in charge of the kitchens there."
LG also offers this origin theory: "If...we are to believe the culinary column of the Liberte, in which Baron Brisse wrote on 6th June 1866, it was the master-cook of the
Chinese Mission, visiting Paris at the time who, if not invented, at least popularised this paradoxical omelette, which combines the cold and hot...'During the stay of the Chinese Mission in
Paris, the master-cooks of the Celestial Empire have exchanged civilities and information with the chefs of the Grand Hotel. (The Grand-Hotel was opened in 1862 and its first chef was called
Balzac.) 'The French chef in charge of sweet courses is particularly delighted with this circumstance. He has learnt from his Chinese colleague the method of baking vanilla and
ginger ices in the oven. Here is how to proceed with this delicate operation: Chill the ice until hard, wrap each in a very light pastry crust and put into the oven. The pastry is baked before the ice protected by the pastry shel can melt. This phenomenon is explained by poor
conductability of certain substances."
---Larousse Gastronomique, Prosper Montagne, edited by Charlotte Turgeon and Nina Froud [Crown Publishers:New York] 1961 (p. 398)
[NOTE: Happy to send the original 1938 Larousse Gastronomique French text upon request.]

3. "Count" Rumford lived 1753-1814. His contribution is not elaborated by Larousse Gastronomique. Elizabeth Benson's 1974 abbreviated Englished edition
of Ali-Bab's Encyclopedia of Practical Gastronomy (actual edition/year unclear) offers this headnote:
"Omelette Souflee en Surprise. This lovely-looking dessert...is a pretty corollary of the discovery made in 1804, by eminent American physican, Thomas de Rumfort,
that stiffly beaten egg white is a poor heat conductor." (p. 410). Ali-Bab
(aka Henri Babinski) was a respected scientist and culinary expert of his day. His work Gastronomie Pratique
was introduced in 1907 and survived several editions through 1928. The first edition (the only one we find online, free) does not contain the Rumford note. We will
continue searching. We find no print evidence (so far) supporting Rumford's "claim" to having invented the prototype Baked Alaska, or any other dish. The 1895 monte
Carlo reference is sometimes misattributed Rumford. The original text confirms this note is not connected.

4. The Chinese dish appears to be a version of fried ice cream, not "true" Baked Alaska. Our research indicates pastry-wrapped
baked ice cream was popular at the same time. Period recipes for "Celestial Omelettes" are completely different.

[1888]
"Home cooks armed with [Mary] Lincoln's Frozen Dainties could make something very similar [to Ranhofer's Alaska, Florida]. Lincoln called it 'Ice-cream en Degusier' and used
a sheet of sponge cake rather than individual biscuits...Just as Ranhofer did, she topped the cake with ice cream, covered it with meringue, and baked it
'quickly in a hot oven.' She said it was 'recommended chiefly for its novelty.'"
---Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making, Jeri Quinzio [University of California Press:Berkeley CA] 2009 (p. 150)
[NOTE: We have a copy of Lincoln's 1888 book on order. Will upload recipe soon.]

[1894]
"(3538). ALASKA, FLORIDA (Alaska, Florida).
Prepare a very fine vanilla-flavored Savoy biscuit paste (No. 3231). Butter some plain molds two and three-quarters inches in diameter by one and a half inches in depth; dip them in fecula or flour, and fill two-thirds full with the paste. Cook, turn them out and make an incision all around the bottom; hollow out the cakes, and mask the empty space with apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Have some ice cream molds shaped as show in Fig. 667, fill them half with uncooked banana ice cream (No. 3541), and half with uncooked vanilla ice cream (No. 3466); freeze, unmold and lay them in the hollow of the prepared biscuits; keep in a freezing box or cave. Prepare also a meringue with twelve egg-whites and one pound of sugar. A few moments before serving place each biscuit with its ice on a small lace paper, and cover one after the other with the meringue pushed through a pocket furnished with a channeled socket, beginning at the bottom and diminishing the thickness until the top is reached; color this meringue for two minutes in a hot oven, and when a light golden brown remove and serve at once."The Epicurean, Charles Ranhofer [Accessed online 26 April 2014]
[NOTE: Many food history sources cite the 1893 edition of this book. We do not have ready access to it and cannot confirm.]

[1903]
"4419. Omelette Norvegienne.
Place an oval-shaped base of Genoise 2 cm (2/5 in) thick on a silver dish; the length of the oval
should be proportionate to the size of then omelette. Place wither a cream or a fruit ice of the
selected flavour on the Genoise, forming an oval pyramid. Cover the ice with a layer of either
ordinary meringue or stiff Italian meringue and smooth with a palette knife so as to give an even
coating 1 1/2 cm (3/5 in) thick. Decorate with some of the same meringue using a piping bag and
tube; place in a very hot oven to cook and colour the meringue rapidly but without the heat
penetrating to the ice inside."
---The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery, Escoffier 1903, The first
translation into English by H.L. Cracknell and R.J. Kaufmann of Le Guide Culinaire in its
entirety [John Wiley:New York] 1979 (p. 527)
[NOTE: Escoffier offers several nine variations on this theme. Each sports a different name and
slightly different ingredients.]

[1909]
"An ideal Summer dessert is baked Alaska. To make it pack a round mold with vanilla ice cream.
Cover and gind the seams of the mold with strips of muslin dipped in melted paraffin. Repack in
ice and salt, and stand aside for at least two hours. At serving time turn the ice cream on a folded
napkin on a platter. Beat the whites of four eggs until light, add four tablespoons of powdered
sugar, and whip until light and dry. Cover the ice cream thoroughly with this meringue, and dust
well with powdered sugar. Stand the platter on a cold board, and run the whole in a hot oven for
a moment to brown. Serve at once."
---"Delicious Dishes for Summer," New York Times, July, 4 1909 (p. X6)

[1917]
"Surprise Omelets, Alaska. Place an oval-shaped piece of Genoise or sponge cake about one-half inch thick on an oblong
dish. On top of the cake put a layer of vanilla ice cream about one inch in thickness, cover it with meringue or with vanilla
omelet souffle preparation and bake in a quick oven so that the heat will not reach the ice cream...Norvegienne. Same as
Alaska, using meringue instoead of vanila souffle preparation."
---Eggs in a Thousand Ways, Adolphe Meyer [Hotel Monthly Press:Chicago] 1917 (p. 109)
[NOTE: Meyer's Eggs, and How to Use Them, [1898] doesn not offer this recipe.]

[1925]
"Baked Alaska.--A solidly frozen brick of ice cream which has been wrapped in a thick meringue of powdered sugar and egg whites whipped
thoroughly and then placed in a very hot oven until the meringue browns. The cream will not melt if the oven is hot enough. A typlical hotel
dainty, which cannot be served economically at either luncheonette or soda fountain."
---The Dispenser''s Formulary, Soda Fountain (trade magazine) [Soda Fountain Publications:New York] 4th edition, 1925 (p. 26)

[1955]
"Baked Alaskas.
1. Start heating oven to 450 degrees F. For cake base, choose one of Alaskas, p. 428; set cake base
on brown paper (1/2" larger than cake) on cookie sheet.
2. Make meringue: With electric mixer or egg beater, beat 3 egg whites until they stand in peaks
when beater is raised. Slowly add 6 tablesp. granulated sugar, beating until stiff and glossy.
3. Quickly fill or top cake base with about 1 qt. Very firm ice cream, as directed below. Quickly
cover ice cream and base completely with meringue. If desired, sprinkle with slivered almonds,
shaved chocolate, or shredded coconut. Bake 4 to 5 min., or until delicate brown.
4. Remove from oven at once; slip 2 spatulas between Alaska and paper; transfer Alaska to chilled
serving dish. Garnish with berries or fresh, frozen, or canned peach slices, etc. Serve at once.
5. To serve ablaze, pour a little lemon extract over 3 sugar cubes; set on top of meringue; light;
carry to table.
Alaskas:
Igloos: Use bakers' spongecake layer as base. Pile ice cream on top, leaving 1/2" free around
edge.
Brownie: Use panful of uncut brownies as base. Top with brick of ice cream.
Little Baked: Use 6 bakers' dessert shells as base. Top each with well-drained canned pineapple
slices. Place scoop of ice cream on each.
Traditional: Use 1 piece thin spongecake, 8"X6"X1". Top with brick ice cream.
Surprise: Use 9" tube spongecake as base. Hollow out as in Frozen Ice-Cream Angel,...Fill
through with 2 to 3 pt. Ice cream...
P.S. You can have Baked Alaska on short notice if you keep cake and ice cream on hand in your
freezer."
---Good Housekeeping Cook Book, Dorothy B. Marsh [Good Housekeeping:New York]
1955 (p. 427-8)

[1972]
"Baked Alaska
1 layer Genoese Cake (see index)
4 egg whites
7 tablespoons powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1-1/2 pints chocolate or vanilla ice cream, frozen in a mold
Meringue
Take a layer of Genoises Cake which is cut a little larger than the mold of the ice cream. Put it on a board covered with heavy paper.
Beat the egg whites until stiff; add the sugar gradually, and continue beating. Add the vanilla. Unmold the ice cream onto the cake. Cover
thickly with meringue, place on a baking sheet, and brown in a very hot oven (450 degrees F.) for about 5 minutes. Serve immediately. Serves
6 to 8."
---A Treasury of White House Cooking, Francois Rysavy, as told to Frances Spatz Leighton [G. Putnam's Sons:New York] 1972 (p. 214-215)
[NOTES: (1) Recipe for Genoese Cake appears on p. 142. (2) This recipe is included in the Kennedy chapter.]

"America's gone Cho-Cho! Boys, girls, men, women...millions thrilled by big feast of cooling, delicious, nourishing. Chocolate
Malted ice Cream for a Nickel! Yes, everywhere the great news is spreading about CHO-CHO-the brand-new "taste thrill way" to eat
malted ice cream! And no wonder...for you've never had anything like CHO-CHO before! It's a big, nourishing feast of delicious ice
cream, chock full of theat rich, chocolate malted flavor everybody loves. You, too, will be wild about CHO-CHO! Just think! For
only a nickle you can get this big, tasty treat--on a stick--of delicious ice cream chock full of rich chocolate malted flavor.
Look! it's Easy to Eat CHO-CHO. Here's all you do. Hurry to your favorite ice cream dealer's and get a CHO-CHO now. Then, one!--roll
the cup between your hands. Two!--press bottoms of cup with your thumb. There!--pull out with the stick. And you're all set to enjoy
the grandest-tasting ice cream sensation in years. Join the crowds that are flocking to your ice cream dealer's now. Hear them cheer
this new way to eat chocolate malted ice cream. And discover an exciting new taste thrill--with CHO-CHO! See special, money-saving
introductory coupon. CHO-CHO Company, Milwaukeee, Wisconsin."
---Display ad, Los Angeles Times, April 28, 1940 (p. G3)
[NOTE: This ad contains illustrations of the product and copy of the coupon.]

"By 1891, there were more soda fountains than bars in New York according to On the Town in
New York by Michael and Ariane Batterberry. In the 1920s, the "egg cream," an eggless,
creamless libation was invented in a New York soda fountain...The annals of time have obscured
inventor and the rational and philosophical underpinnings of the drink's name."
---New York Cook Book, Molly O'Neill [Workman Publishing:New York] 1992 (p. 197)

"Egg cream. A New York City soda-fountain confection made from chocolate syrup, milk, and
seltzer. The simplicity of the egg cream is deceptive, for its flavor and texture depend entirely on
the correct preparation. There is no egg in an egg cream, but if the ingredients are mixed properly,
a foamy, egg-white-like head tops the drink. Nevertheless, as David Shulman pointed out in
American Speech (1987), there was a confection, called an "egg cream" syrup listed in
W.A. Bonham's Modern Guide for Soda Dispensers (1896) that was made with both eggs
and cream, but no chocolate. This was probably not the egg cream that gained legendary fame in
eastern cities. Also, Lettice Bryan in The Kentucky Housewife (1839) gives a recipe for an
orange-flavored custard dessert called "egg cream."
There seems no basis to believe the legend the Yiddish actor Boris Thomashefsky brought the
idea for the egg cream back from Paris after having tasted a drink called chocolate et creme.
Indeed the unchallenged claim for the invention of the egg cream is that Louis Auster, a Jewish
immigrant who came to the United States about 1890 and opened a candy store at Stanton and
Avenue D. According to Auster's grandson...the egg cream was a matter of happenstance. "My
[grandfather] was fooling around, and he started mixing water and cocoa and sugar and so on,
and somehow or other, eureka, he hit on something which seemed to be just perfect for him."
Auster's egg creams became famous...and were based on a secret formula that has never been
revealed...The chocolate syrup used was made in the rear of the store, and windows were blacked
out for privacy. "The name of the egg cream was really a misnomer, " recalled Stanley Auster.
"People thought there was cream in it, and they would like to think there was egg in it becuase
egg meant something that was really good and expensive. There was never any egg, and there
never was any cream." Auster also insisted a glass, not a paper cup, and ice-cold milk were basic
to the success of a good egg cream. After Louis Auster died...the recipe passed to his family, with
the last batch of the secret syrup made up...around 1974. The first printed reference to the egg
cream was in 1950. Without accesss to Auster's syrup, other soda fountains and candy stores
made the drink with "Fox's u-bet Chocolate Flavor Syrup," Created by Herman Fox some time
before 1920 in Brooklyn, now considered the most widely accepted ingredient in the mix."
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New
York] 1999 (p. 120)

"Fox's U-Bet Chocolate Syrup is a classic. You absolutely cannot make an egg cream without
[it]...The firm, founded sometime between 1910 and 1920...began in a Brownsville
basement...The recipe for U-Bet remains the same: Brooklyn water, sugar, corn sweeteners,
cocoa, and some "secret things." The name "U-Bet dates from the late 20s when Fox's
grandfather got wildcatting fever and headed to Texas to drill for oil. "You bet" was a friendly
term the oilmen used. His oil venture a failure, he returend to the old firm, changing Fox's
Chocolate Syrup to Fox's U-Bet...Fox has fan letters form Mel Brooks, Don Rickles...You
shouldn't have to ask, but there is no egg or cream in an egg cream. Just milk, seltzer, and
U-Bet."
---The Brooklyn Cookbook, Lyn Stallworth and Rod Kennedy Jr [Alfred A. Knopf:New
York] 1994 (p. 358).]
[NOTES: (1)This book contains a recipe for the "correct" Brooklyn egg cream. (2)Fox's is still in business.

[1828--France]
"Cream a la Vanille.
Take one or two sticks of vanilla, which infuse in some boiling cream; next put in the
eggs as you do for other creams. If you are making a fromage a la glace, you must put
a smaller quantity of eggs, as isinglass is to be put to stiffen it; and keep constantly
stirring the cream on the fire, while the eggs are doing. Mind that the eggs are not
overdone. When you perceive the cream is getting thick, put the melted isinglass in,
and rub it through a tammy, then put it into a mould and into ice. When you wish to
make the cream more delicate, let it get cold; then put it into a vessel over ice, before
you put any isinglass into it, and whip it; when quite frozen, put in cold melted isinglass:
this method requires less isinglass, and the jelly is much lighter."
---The French Cook, Louis Eustache Ude, facsimile Englished edition [Arco
Publishing:New York] 1978 (p. 360-1)

[1828--United States]
"Vanilla Cream.
Boil a Vanilla bean in a quart of rich milk until it has imparted the flavour sufficiently;
then take it out, and mix with the milk, eight eggs, yelks [yolks] and whites, beaten well;
let it boil a little longer--make it very sweet, for much of the sugar is lost in the operation
of freezing."
---The Virginia House-wife, Mary Randolph, facsimile reprint edition with
historical notes and commentaries by Karen Hess [University of South Carolina
Press:Columbia] 1984 (p. 174)
[NOTE: Food historian Karen Hess states this is the first recipe for ice cream printed in
an American cook book.]

[1890s--England]
"Custard Ice Cream.
2 Quarts New Milk
1-lb White Sugar
6 Fresh Eggs.
2-oz Fresh Butter.
1/4 to 1/2 oz. Vanilla Essence.
Process.--Well whisk the eggs with a fork or whisk, then stir them into the new milk,
adding the butter and sugar; put the whole into a clean pan and place on a slow clear
fire; keep stirring all the time, well rubbing the bottom of the pan until the mixture comes
to the boiling point, when it will get thickish; be careful that it does not quite boil or it will
curdle; remove the pan from the fire and strain through a fine hair sieve; stand it aside
until cold; when quite cold, put the custard in the freezer, adding the vanilla, and freeze
either by hand or machine as directed; a tidge of saffron would make the cream look
richer."
---Skuse's Complete Confectioner, [W.J. Bush & Co:London] 1890s(p. 149)

[1886]
"Fried Cream.
1 pint of milk
Yolks of three eggs
1/4 of a nutmeg, grated
1 tablespoonful of corn-starch
1/2 cup of sugar
1 teaspoonful of vanilla
4 tablespoonfuls of flour
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, moisten the flour and corn-starch in a little cold milk, then add it to the boiling milk. Stir, and boil five minutes. Now add the
sugar, nutmeg, and the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Let cook one minute; take from fire and add flavoring. Turn into a square mould, and stand in a cold place for four
or five yours. Then sprinkle some bread crumbs on a baking-board, turn the cream out on them, and cut it into squares. Dip them first in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and fry
in boiling fat. Serve with powdered sugar sifted over."
---Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book, Mrs. S(arah) T(yson) Rorer [Arnold and Company:Philadelphia PA] 1886 (p. 418-419)
[NOTE: Compare with Mrs. Rorer's Alaska Bake, 1902.]

[1894]
"Fried Ice Cream has become very popular in Philadephia. A small, solid cake of ice crea...is enveloped in a thin sheet of pie-crust, and then dipped in boiling
lard or butter long enough to cook the outside covering to a crisp. If served immediately the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was first prepared.
The process of frying is so quickly accomplished and the pastry is so good a protector that the heat has no change to reach the frozen cream. Another novelty is baked ie
cream, which as a meringue on top."
---"Fried Ice Cream," Los Angeles Times, May 6, 1894 (p. 14)
[NOTES: (1) This article appeared in several newspapers across the country. (2) Meringue version is Baked Alaska.]

[1897]
"Fried Ice Cream.--A small, solid cake of the cream is enveloped in a thin sheet of pie crust, and then dipped in boiling lard or butter
long enough to cook the outside to a crisp. Served immediately, the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was first prepared. The
process of frying is so quickly accomplished, and the pastry is so good a protector, that the heat has no chance to reach the frozen cream. It is
pronounced delicious."
---Breakfast Dinner and Supper, or What to Eat and How to Prepare It, Maud C. Cook [J.H. Moore:Philadelphia] 1897 (p. 511-512)

[1952]
Gourmets who visit San Francisco enthuse about this dessert, which is to be found at a few of the
best hotels and restaurants. It's not often served at home, apparently because most cooks don't
dare risk it, but it's really very simple to make. It turns up in a San Diego cook book, under then
name of "Bonfire Entre." It was called that because the fried cream was cut in sticklike pieces and
stacked up on individual plates like miniature and roofless log cabins. A couple of lumps of sugar,
brandy-soaked, went into the center of each pile of "logs," and matches graced the side of each
plate. The lights were lowered, and everyone lit up. Whoopee!
Scals a pint of heavy cream and add to it 2 teaspoons of Jamaica rum, 1/8 teaspoon of salt, 1/4 cup of sugar, a 1/2-inch stick of
cinnamon, and 5 tablespoons of cornstaarch moistened in 3 tablespoons of milk. Cook long enough to remove the starch taste, then beat in
3 egg yolks adn cook over hot water, whisking continuously, until thick. Remove cinnamon and pour mixture, about 3/4 of an inch deep, into a fat dish (an
oblong Pyrex dish is perfect) to become cold. Turn out on a board, cut into squares or oblongs, and roll in finely grated almonds. Now dip in beaten
egg, and then in finelyy crushed salted crakers. Chill again, then fry in deep fat at 390 degrees F. just long enough to brown the nutts. Pour on heated rum, set
aire, and serve flaming. This recipe seres 8.
1 pint heavy cream
2 teaspoons Jamaica rum
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar
1/2-inch stick of cinnamon
5 tabespoons cornstarch
3 tablespoons milk
3 egg yolks
Grated almonds
Beaten egg
Cracker Crumbs"
---West Coast Cook Book, Helen Evans Brown [Cookbook Collectors Library reprint
edition] 1952 (p. 66)

Some Japanese-American restaurants offer ice cream tempura. While tempura dates to the 16th century, this is
not a traditional Asian dish. It is the product of savvy restauranteurs adjusting menus meet to American expectations.

"Gelato. Ice cream, made with egg custard, sugar, and flavorings. From the latin gelare
(to freeze). The Arabs were the first to develop the kind of fruit ice that the Italians called
sorbetto, but the Chinese seem to have invented milk-based ice cream, which Marco Polo
described on his returned from the Orient. The idea for both frozen desserts were brought
to France by a cook named Bernardo Buontalenti, either with Caterina de'Medici in 1533
or with Maria de'Medici in 1600. It was, however, a Sicilian who made custard-based ice
cream, a wildly popular and fashionable confection: Francesco Procopio dei Coletti, an
impovershed Palermo aristocrat, emigrated to Vienna in 1672, first to work for a coffee
purveyor, then as owner of his own coffeehouse. Before long he ran a chain of such cafes
throughout Central Europe, then took the idea to Paris in 1675, where he opened the Cafe
Procope...where he began selling Viennese-style ices and, before long, custard-rich ice
creams. Coffee houses in Italy followed the Paris model, and gelato became hugely
popular. In Italy today, the best ice creams in Italy are made by local gelaterie..."
---The Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink, John Mariani [Broadway Books:New York]
1998 (p. 115-6)

"Ice cream is not really the proper translation for gelato, since unlike American ice cream Sicilian gelato is not made with
cream at all, but with crema rinforzata, which is nothing other than the omnipresent biancomangiare in a particularly liquid
form. One old recipe calls for goat's milk...Modern Sicilian ice-cream parlors have abandoned goat's milk."
---Pomp and Sustenance: Twenty-Five Centuries of Sicilian Food, Mary Taylor Simeti [Ecco Press:Howell NJ] 1989 (p. 294-295)
[NOTE: includes modernized recipe.]

"For centuries, Italian ices and ice ream have been a summer treat on their home ground and indeed in all of Europe, but during the
last 30 years or so gelato (Italian ice cream) has also become a fixture, at least in Rome, in winter as well. It's not just vanilla
and chocolate ice cream either. Artichoke, mango, whisky, rhubarb and other exotic flavors are today on the broadening palette
of the ice cream parlors. Their frequent sign 'Produzione Propria' means that gelat artists are at work, using their
secret recipes...Gelato seems to taste better than homogenized or standard American ice cream because it isn't as deeply frozen
and therefore has a creamier texture, and because it usually contains plenty of fresh eggs and cream...In Rome, the most renowed
ice cream emporium is Giolitti's...The history of Giolitti's is a good example of the recent fortunes of gelato. More than
50 years ago the grandfather of the rpesent owner started out at the same spt with a dairy shop that became famouse for its
excellent cappuccino. Gelato was then just a minor summer sideline...Gelato...may have originated in Florence; one Bernardo
Nuontalenti is mentioned by chroniclers as its presumed inventor...During the Napoleonic era Tortoni's Cafe Napolitain, an opulent
gelato haven on the Boulevard des Italiens, was such a rage in Paris that the name Tortoni for some time was synonymous with
Italian ices."
---"Cold Comfort in Rome," Paul Hoffmann, New York Times, April 10. 1983 (p. XX6)

"Italian gelatos differ from French ice creams in having a more powerful flavor and denser texture, thanks to the inclusion of more
solids and less air. Although they're usually made with milk instead of cream, they often contain more eggs than French ice creams
and thus taste equally rich, if not richer. Technically speaking, gelato is any kind of freeze served at an Italian ice cream
shop, or gelateria, including gelato itself as well as granita...sorbetto...and a very light-textured ice cream, semifreddo, made with
whipped cream or beaten egg whites...The best known gelato flavors are vanilla, a very rich vanilla called crema, and chocolate, often
combined with hazelnuts (gianduia). Liqueur flavors are also popular, and so is espresso coffee."
---Ice Cream! The Whole Scoop, Gail Damerow [Glenbridge Publishing:Macomb IL] 1991 (p. 90)
[NOTE: This book contains recipes for Vanilla, Espresso, Chocolate, Chocolate Cappuccino, Apricot, Marzipan and Zabaione Gelato.]

Our survey of historic American newspapers and cookbooks suggests Heavenly Hash recipes proliferated in the until the 1940s.
They were generally ignored until the 1980s, when Heavenly Hash was rediscovered by upscale ice cream manufacturers.

[1887]
“St. Louis Republican: ‘Haven’t you heard of heavenly hash?’ asked a pretty little matron down at the cooing school…’Why, heavenly hash is just too delicious, and the name suits it to a dot. This is what it seems to be, and I believe it is; Oranges, bananas, lemons, apples, raisins, and pineapples are cut up into little bits—hashed, you know, and worked just enough to thicken their juices, almost to jelly, and then served with a little grated nutmeg. But the serving is the pretty part. It is after this wise: Cut a hole just large enough to admit a spoon in the stem end of an orange, and through that hole take out the inside of the orange, which you then fill with the heavenly hash and served on a pretty little glass fruit-dish with lemon or orange leaves decorating the dish. You can imagine this heavenly hash to be a delightful new dainty, which at some recent luncheon parties has taken the pale of ice cream.”
---“Heavenly Hash: A Delightful New Dainty—A Glimpse of Paradise,” Chicago Daily Tribune, February 8, 1887 (p. 5)
[NOTE: A recipe for “Paradise,” also featuring similar fruits, presented in mixed layers, is also offered. The author states it was “Introduced in St. Louis by a lady who recently came over from France, where she saw it served at some very recherche houses.”]

[1909]
“Heavenly Hash (Alias Tutti Frutti).”
---“The Housemothers’ Exchange: Heavenly Hash,” Los Angeles Times, November 1909 (p. VII6)
[NOTES: (1) The original recipe is obscured by age and difficult to read. We can, however, tell it was made with alcohol in
a stone crock. Ingredients included English walnuts, blanched almonds, diced bananas, oranges, pineapples,
grapefruit, pears, plums, berries, Malaga grapes and sugar. (2) Like Heavenly Hash, recipes for Tutti Frutti are popular and
varied.]

[1913]
"Heavenly Pudding (Delicious)
Bake an angel food cake as above and ice it. Remoe the greater part of the inner cake and fill in layer by layer with the folllowing: Whipped cream, sweetened
and flavored to taste, candied cherries, candied pineapple, marshmallows, blanched almonds, more whipped cream, cherries, pineapple, nuts and marshmallows
to the top of the cake. Return the layer of top icing removed and garnish with the candied fruits, marshmallows and nuts. Slice in wedge-shaped
pieces and eat with a fork."
---The Economy Administration Cook Book, Susie Root Rhodes and Grace Porter Hopkins editors [W.B. Conkey Company:Hammond IN] 1913 (p. 299)

[1926]
“Combinations of fruit and nuts and whipped cream have been called ‘heavenly hash,’ which is consistent with our them
about bream being a supreme product.”
---"The Tribune Cookbook: Cream Supreme,” Jane Eddington, Chicago Daily Tribune, May 30, 1026 (p. C4)

[1929]
“Heavenly Hash. H.L.K. , Los Angeles, Cal.: One pint of whipped cream, twenty-five marshmallows, a quarter of a pound of
candied cherries and a quarter of a pound of candied pineapple, mix the marshmallows, cut n small pieces with the whipped
cream, fold in the candied cherries and pineapple, place in lasses, decorate with some chopped nutmeats and a few of the
candied cherries cut in small pieces.”
---“Early Shopping Food Pages: Practical Recipes, Heavenly Hash,” Los Angeles Times, January 8, 1929 (p. A7)

[192?]
“Heavenly Hash
3 pounds sugar
3 pounds corn syrup
½ pound small seed raisins
1 pint water
Cook to 250 degrees F, then set kettle off the fire and add 1 pound of mixed shelled nuts and all the fine powdered
cocoanut you can possibly stir in, then pour off on the slab and flatten out with rolling-pin about the thickness of
caramels; let it stand until cold, then cut in pieces the size of caramels.”
---Rigby’s Reliable Candy Teacher, W.O. Rigby [Rigby Publishing Company:Topeka KS] 19th edition, undated (p. 162)

[1933]
"If you like fresh fruit as much as Joan Crawford does--especially peaches (in high season now)…if you feel for whipped
cream the way tune-detective Sigmund Spaeth does (he says he could eat buckshot if it had plenty of whipped cream on it)
...then you’re set on your hot-weather meal-endings… Heavenly Hash.
Here are two variations on the whipped ream theme that meet with praise wherever they appear—heavenly hash and snow cream.
For heavenly hash, cut 4 slices of canned pineapple into small cubes. Mix these with ¼ pound marshmallows (first cut into
quarters with wet shears.) Let this mixture stand in the refrigerator several hours. Then add ¼ cup sliced maraschino
cherries and divide mixture into individual serving classes. Then whip 1 cup heavy cream with 3 tablespoons confectioners’
sugar. Add ¼ cups chopped walnuts and heap this mixture on top of the first mixture. Yummie!”
---“Heavenly Hash Combines Many Tasty Fruits, Whipped Cream,” Ann Barrett, Washington Post, August 22, 1933 (p. 9)

[1967]
“Heavenly Hash…hails from the Southern part of the United States. It has been called a ‘gussied up’ version of Ambrosia.
Arrange in layers, preferably in a glass bowl; a layer of sliced, peeled, navel oranges; a layer of thinly sliced, tart
apples, peeled or not as you wish; a layer of miniature marshmallows, a layer of sliced bananas, a quarter inch of
coconut. Mix 4 tablespoons honey with 1/2 cup marsala wine or orange juice. Pour this over the mixture, cover with
sweetened whipped cream and garnish with walnuts and drained maraschino cherries.”
---“Fast Gourmet, Poppy Cannon, Chicago Daily Defender, September 14, 1967 (p. 24)

[1980]
“Benjamin Peterson has tasted success, and for him it has come in may flavors; choco cherry, fudgie way, sunshine brick, heavenly hash and chocolate marshmallow
bon bon…Mr. Peterson is an ice-cream chef…Since he began concocting flavors at his home in 1959, Mr. Peterson’s
fervor for flavors has blossomed into a $7 million a year business. His company, Fantasy Flavors Inc., dishes out
ideas to some giants of the ice-crea world, such as Beatrice Foods, Kraft and Borden…Like choco cherry, the most
successful flavors are borrowed from already-popular desserts and snacks.”
---“Man of Taste Tries to Scoop the World, Melt the Competition,” Lawrence Ingrassia, Wall Street Journal, August
15, 1980 (p. 1)
[NOTE: This article does not state which year Mr. Peterson developed his Heavenly Hash, nor does it describe the ingredients.]

What is a Black Cow?
"Black cow. Any variety of ice-cream sodas made with scoop of vanilla ice cream. Usually the
soda itself if either chocolate, sarsaparilla, or root beer (called a "Boston cooler"), and the name
refers to the mixture of dark soda with a white dairy item floating in it."
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York]
1999 (p. 31)

When did they first appear?
Our survey of historic USA cook books, soda fountain manuals, and historic newspapers suggests "black cows" surfaced in the beginning of the 20th century. It is
unclear if they desended from traditioanl ice cream sodas or popped up on their own.
Alternative concoctions (Coca Cola floats) were also popular. These simple fizzy drinks were soda fountain mainstays.
The fact that Black Cows could be made at home enhanced their popularity. Unlike ice cream sodas, they required no fancy syrups, mixers, special glasses or garnishes.
We also find references to "Black Cow" (root beer) flavored ice cream, soft drink, and alcoholic liqueur. Mary Rattley's 'Black Cow Sauce' (aka cucumber sauce) was served to
President and Mrs. Hoover in the White House.

Purple Cows, grape juice and ice cream or milk, surface in the 1940s. The name might have
been borrowed from a poem by Gelette Burgess published in The Woman's Home Companion (magazine), May 1895:
"I never saw a purple cow,
I never hope to see one;
But I can tell you anyhow
I'd rather see than be one."

[1924]
"Make a 'Black Cow' You'll like it. It's de Luxe drink tht is both satisfying and delicious. Use half milk or cream and add Alamanaris Root Beer. It's good or the
children."
---display ad, Chicago Daily Tribune, September 5, 1924 (p. 14)

[1925]
"Root Beer Cream Float
Fill 12-ounce glass within an inch of the top with root beer, then flat on top with spoon about 2
ounces plain, sweet, rich cream. The Cream Float serves well as a novelty and should be priced at
10 cents."
---The Dispenser's Formulary, comiled by The Soda Fountain Trade Magazine, fourth edition
[Soda Fountain Publications:New York] 1925 (p. 89)

[1931]
"Cold drinks are synonymous with hot weatehr. It would take a gigantic bulletin bord to list the varieties and each season adds a few more. Many classify cold drinks
only as thirst satisfiers, forgetting that a cold drink may be nutritious as well...In the summer we always stress convenience and little expenditure of energy in
our food preparations...[a] good combination easily prepared is milk and carbonated beverage, and one of the most cooling is ginger ale and milk. If you like root beer
flavor you will not scorn the black cow that is whisked together so quickly with chilled milk, root beer extract, ice water and a dash of cinnamon, a dash of nutmeg and a
little sugar to sweeten...Black Cow. 2 cups chilled milk, 1 cup ice water, 1 tbsp. sugar, 1 tsp. root beer extract, dash cinnamon, dish nutmeg. Measure ingredients into a bowl
and whisk with an egg beater, or shake vigorously in a glass fruit jar. Yield: 2 servings."
---"Cold Drinks for 1931 Are Mixed in New Styles," Afro-American, July 11, 1931 (p. 8)

In the 1800s ice cream served at fancy parties was often molded into festive
shapes. This was a borrowed tradition from molded puddings and custards. By the Victorian
era, ice cream was often pressed into molds which produced elegant, elaborate frozen desserts.
Some of the ice cream creations (bombes, etc.) had fillings, usually fruit. Many of these combined
biscuits and other cakes. In 19th century American cookbooks, "ice cream cake" had several
definitions.

Compare these recipes from the 1870s:

[1871]
"Ice Cream Cakes
Half a cupful each of milk and bitter, one cupful of sugar, two cupsful of flour, three eggs beaten,
whites and yolks separately, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda, and
flavor with vanilla."
---Mrs. Porter's New Southern Cookery Book, Mrs. M.E. Porter, reprint of 1871 editon
[Promontory Press:New York] 1974 (p. 259)

Ice cream sandwiches, as we Americans know them today, fall into the category of "novelties."
According to the food historians, ice cream novelties were introduced in the late 19th/early 20th
century. These were the treats of the "common folk." Cheaply priced items hawked by street
vendors in cities, resorts & fairs. The origin of several popular period ice cream treats (ice cream
cones, ice cream sundaes, banana splits, popsicles) are readily claimed by several people and
places. Not so, the ice cream sandwich. The earliest print references we find for the product name is 1900.
Certainly, the product could have existed earlier under different names.

[1900]
"The ice cream sandwich man, who sells quarter-inch layers of alleged ice cream between tiny slabs of water wafers, did a big business during the hot spell. His field of operation was within the disctrict inhabited by the Russians, and his pushcart was elaborately decorated with signs in Hebrew characters. He made the sandwiches quickly in a tin mold, and was kept so busy that he could not make change, but insisted on feceiveing the actual price for each ice cream sandwich--1 cent."
---"Hot Water Enterrpise: Devices of Street Mechants and Others to Attrace Patronage," from The New York Tribune,
The Washington Post, July 25, 1900 (p. 4)

"The ice cream sandwich is a new hot weather luxury which is rapidly coming into downtown favor. An enterprising
hokey-pokey vendor, whose daily station in in John street, is the projector, and his push cart is constantly surrounded
by a jostling, sweltering crowd of patrons, representing all social condiitons, form banker down to bootblack and newsboy.
The inventor takes a graham wafer, deftly plasters it with ice cream, claps another wafer on top, and there is your ice
cream sandwich. The cost is trifling, ranging from 1 to 3 cents, according to the size and thickness of the thing. But the
mank is simply coining money, where he eked out a meager revenue before. he has simpley tickled the public's facny for
something new."
---"The Ice Cream Sandwich," from the New York Telegraph, The Washignton Post, August 19, 1900 (p. 15)

"There are ham sandwiches and salmon sandwiches and cheese sandwiches and several other kinds of sandwiches--a downtown restaurant
advertises 30 varieties--by the latest is the ice cream sandwich. As a new fad the ice cream sandwich might have made thousands of dollars for
its inventor had the novelty been launched by a well-known caterer. But, strangely enough the ice cream sandwich made its advent in an humbler
Bowery pushcart and is sold for a penny, says the New York make and Express. The idea is worth of a better field, for the ice cream sandwich is
not only a distinct novelty, but has merits of its own. It will be appreciated by the child who on eating ice cream for the first time wanted to
have it warmed. While losing nothing of its flavor, the thin wafers which go to make up the sandwich help to modify the coolness of the ice cream,
so that it can be eaten more readily. The ice cream sandwich as made on the Bowery is constructed in this wise: A thin milk biscuit is placed in a
tin mold just large enough to receive it. Then the mold is filled with ice cream from a freezer and another wafer is placed on top. There is an
arrangement for forcing the sandwich out of the mold when complete, and the whole process takes only a few seconds. The ice cream sandwich
man is the envy of all other pushcart restaurateurs on the Bowery, as he has all the patrons he can attend to and the car is always surrounded
by curious customers."
---"Ice Cream Sandwich," Logansport Daily Reporter, [Indiana] September 1, 1900 (p. 3)

Recent developments
The Chipwich was invented in
1977 by Richard E. Lamotta. His trademark is registered with the U.S. Patent & Trademark
Office (registration #73159560).

Freeze-dried Space Bar ice cream sandwiches were invented in 1989 by U.S. scientists connected
with the Smithsonian Institution. Trademark registration number is 1576642.

American marketers are currently capitalizing on brand recognition/nostalgia when it comes to
developing new ice cream sandwich products. Our local supermarket sells ice cream sandwiches
featuring Nestle Toll House cookies and Oreos. Sandwich minis (we buy small things because we
can eat more of them?) are also popular. You can identify new products and consumer trends with
magazine/trade journal/newspaper articles (your librarian can help you access) and company Web
sites (product lists and press releases).

"English acquired the word sherbet via Turkish or Persian serbet from Arabic shabah, 'beverage,
drink', and at first (in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries) it was used, logically enough, for a
Middle Eastern drink--specifically a cooling drink made from water, fruit juice, and sugar or
honey, and often chilled with snow. Then in the nineteenth century and effervescent white powder
was devised, composed of bicarbonate of sida, tartaric acid, sugar, and various flavourings, with
which to make fizzy drinks that supposedly resembled the original Oriental sherbet. Children
quickly discovered that it was if anything nicer to eat the sherbet powder than to make drinks with
it, and so were born the sherbet dabs and sherbet fountains of yesteryear (the former was a
lollipop that could be dipped into a bag of sherbet, the latter a cylindrical packet of sherbet with ta
liquorice straw for sucking it up). Sherbet is closely related etymolocially to shrub (the dirnk),
sorbet (in American English sherbet is often used for 'sorbet'), and syrup."
---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxcford] 2002 (p.
309-310)

"Italians were the undisputed master in developing methods of chilling a freezing drinks...The
creation of sorbet resulted from experiments in chilling drinks, and it too became a matter of
myth. Supposedly, sorbet was also brought to France by Catherine de'Medici...There is no
documentary evidence to support this hypothesis, however and we cannot prove that the art of
sorbet making was already practiced in Italy in the middle of the sixteenth century...Latini's...
Treatise on Various Kinds of Sorbets, or Water Ices...composed between 1692 and
1694...contains the first written recipes on how to mix sugar, salt, snow, and lemon juice,
strawberrries, sour cherries, and other fruit, as well as chocolate, cinnamon water, and different
flavorings. There is also a description of a "milk sorbet that is first cooked," which we could
regard as the birth certificate of ice cream. De'sorbetti, the first book entirely dedicated to the art
of making frozen confections, was published in Naples in 1775. Its author, Filippo Baldini,
discusses different types of sorbets...A separate chapter deals with "milky sorbets," meaning ice
creams, whose medical properties are vigorouly proclaimed."
---Italian Cuisine: A Cultural History, Alberto Capatti & Massimo Montanari [Columbia
University Press:New York] 1999 (p. 110-1)

"A sherbet, basically and historically, is a cold, sweetened, non-alcoholic drink, usually based on a fruit juice. The earliest recorded word for it seems to be sharab,
the classical Arab term from a sweetened drink. However, in the late Middle Ages this word developed its current Arabic sense...The later Arabic word sharbat
also entered European languages. In the late 16th century it appeared in Italian as the name of a beverage drunk in Turkey. Then the beverage itself entered Italian
cuisine, under the name sorbetto. It took this form because the Italians assimiliated it into their verb sorbire, meaning to sip. The Italian sorbetto gave rise to the
French sorbet, the Spanish sorbete, etc. All these words begin with 's' not with 'sh'. English seems to be the only language which took the word sherbet directly
from the Turkish, complete with its 'h'...According to the dictionary compiled by Fortiere in the late 17th century, a sorbet in France at that time was also a drink,
of sugar and lemon pulp. Diderot's great encyclopedia of the 1750s suggests that it remained so during the 18th century. During the 19th century...a sorbet could
be either a drink or a sort of ice more suitable for drinking than eating, and in the latter case had an alcoholic content."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson, 2nd edition edited by Tom Jaine [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2006 (p. 717)

"Sorbet.
A type of water ice that is softer and more granular than ice cream as it does not contain any fat
or egg yolk. The basic ingredient of a sorbet is fruit juice or puree, wine, spirit or liqueur, or an
infusion (tea or mint). A sugar syrup, sometimes with additional glucose or one or two invert
sugars is added. The mixture should not be beaten during freezing. When it has set, some Italian
meringue can be added to give it volume. Historically, sorbets were the first iced desserts (ice
creams did not appear until ith 18th century). The Chinese introduced them to the Persians and
Arabs who introduced them to the Italians. The word sorbet is a gallicazation of the Italian
sorbetto, derived from Turkish chobet and Arab charah, which simply meant drink. Sorbets were
originally made of fruit, honey, aromatic substances and snow. Today, the sorbet is served as a
dessert or as a refreshment between courses; at large formal dinners in France, sorbets with an
alcoholic base are served between the main courses, taking the place of the liqueur...formerly
served in the middle of the meal..."
---Larousse Gastronomique, completely revised and updated [Clarkson Potter:New York]
2001(p. 1108)

[1870s: USA]
"7th Course: Roman Punch."
---
Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving, Mary Henderson [1877]
[NOTES: (1) "Roman Punch. Make or purchase lemon ice. Just before serving, put enough for one person at table into a saucer or punch-glass, and pour over two table-spoonfuls of the milk
punch,made as in the last receipt. A course of Roman punch is often served at dinner parties just after the roast. There is no better, cheaper, or easier way of
preparing it than this."---Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving, Mary Henderson [1877] (p. 340) (2) Eliza Leslie offers recipes for
Roman Punch in the 1840s but does not comment on meal placement or purpose.]

[1880s: USA]
"There are now so many provocatives of appetite that it would seem as if we were all, after the manner of Heliogabalus, determined to eat and die. The best of
these is the Roman punch, which, coming after the heavy roasts, prepares the palate and stomach for the canvas- back ducks
or other game."Manners and Social Usages/Mary Elizabeth Wilson Sherwood, 1887 edition

[1890s: England]
"[Mrs. A. B.] Marshall's suggested dinner menus took full advantage of the latest technology available to a middle-class family in 1895, and nowhere was the
technology more noticeable than in the elaborate, molded ices that graced the dinner table...The Punch course, designed as a palate cleanser between the
Releve and Rot courses, could now be a Sorbet course. Certainly, Marshall noted, a beautifully presented semifrozen sorbet served in a
bowl that itself was made of ice is much more impressive than a glass of cold punch."
---Food and Cooking in Victorian England: A History, Andrea Broomfield [Praeger:Westport CT] 2007 (p. 139-140)

[1890s: USA]
"Seventh Course. Frozen punch, when served, comes between the meat and game courses. It is not passed, but a glassful standing on a plate, with a coffee spoon
beside it, is placed before each person. If preferred, a cheese omelet or souffle may be used instead of punch for this
course."
---The Century Cook Book, Mary Arnold [The Century Co.:New York] 1898 (p. 24-26) [12 courses total]

[1900s: France]
"The Sorbets and those other prepraraions which are derived form them are very light ices, barely frozen, and wich are served after
the Entree at a formal dinner. Their role is that of refresing the palate and to prepare the stomach for the roast course which will be
served following the Sorbet. In fact a Sorbet is both an aperitif and an aid to digestion."
---The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery, A. Escoffier, original Englished version 1907, translated by
H.L. Cracknell and R.J. Kaufmann [John Wilen & Sons:New York] 1979 (p. 575)

[1900s: USA]
"The Seventh Course: Sorbet-Punch which is not essential, but nevertheless a pleasing half-way house among the various stages of
the dinner, is sherbet, for which cooling refreshment a sherbet set is desirable."
---Consolidated Library of Modern Cooking and Household Recipes, Christine Terhune Herrick, editor in chief,
Volune 1 [R.J. Bodmer Company:New York] 1905 (unpaged frontmatter)
[NOTE: This dinner is composed of 10 courses. The Sixth Course is Roast, the Eighth Course is Game.]
"Following the roast a sherbet is served. This, however, is not assigned a special heading on printed or written menus, as it is
simply a light spur to the appetite consisting of a dainty frozen punch served in small glasses."
---ibid (p. 13)

[1920s: USA]
"Punch or sherbet is served between the last entree andther roast. Either one should be placed on the bill of fare without a separate
heading, merely reading: Sherbet or punch, a la ---. The difference between sherbet and punch is that the former is a water ice into
which some liquor is mixed, while punch is an ice either of water or cream mingled with a quarter as much Italian
meringue and liquors...Punches and sherbets are served either in medium glasses, the size usually used for Bordeaux wtihout any
foot, but provided with a handle, or else in fancy cups, either of gum paste or of water tinted to various colors, or in many
kinds made of cardboard of a basket or other shape, or in the peels of fresh fruits."
---The Epicurean: A Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on The Culinary Art, Charles Ranhofer
facsimile 1920 edition [Martino Publishing:Mansfield Center CT] 2011 (p. 1000)

"If both roast and game are served, a frozen punch should be served as a separate course, after the roast, and the salad shoudl be served
with the game, instead of forming a course by itself. Dessert would follow. With one meat course only, sorbets and frozen
punches are not served except at large dinners, and banquets, and at hotels."
---Table Service, Lucy G. Allen [Little, Brown, and Company:Boston] 1927 (p. 84)

[1960s: France]
"Sherbets. Sorbets.--These ices, which in France are usually served between the main courses, take the place nowadays of the
liqueurs which formerly used to be served in the middle of the meal and which in some parts of France were called
coup-du-milieu, and in others trou-normande."
---Larousse Gastonomique, Prosper Montagne [Crown Publishers:New York] 1961 (p. 877)

[2000s: USA]
"7. Sorbet (ice): Sorbets...are served between main courses to cleanse the palate and to prepare the stomach for the next course. The sorbet course is used as an
intermezzo ("intermission")."
---Remarkable Service, Culinary Institute of America, 2nd edition [John Wiley & Sons:New York] 2009 (p. 32-34) [17 courses total]

"Rocky Road. A confection of milk or dark chocolate mixed with marshmallows and nuts. Its
name derives from the texture of the finished product. Culinary historian Jean Anderson has
found a recipe for the candy dating to Young American's Cookbook (1938). It is also the familiar
name of a similarly flavored ice cream."
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York]
1999 (p. 275)

[192?]
"Rocky Road.
Place a disher of chocolate ice cream in a sundae cup and over it pour a ladle of honey cream
whip. Mix a few broken almond macaroons in with the whip and scatter whole pecans and
walnuts lightly over sides. Top with a cherry."
---Rigby's Reliable Candy Teacher, W.O. Rigby, 19th edition [192?] (p. 238)

[1937]
"Frozen Rocky Road
Add six tablespoons and twelve tablespoons ground chocolate to two cups milk and beat together in top of double boiler until all
are well blended. beat thoroughly and cool. Add twenty-four marshmallows chilled and quartered, a few grains salt, one cup chopped
walnuts, one teaspoon vanilla and one cup whipping cream. Pour into freezing tray and allow to remain until firm."
---"A Leaf From Your Shopper's Notebook," Lona Gilbert, Los Angeles Times, March 30, 1937 (p. A6)

[1938]
"Rocky Road Candy.
12 marshmallows, cut in quarters
1/2 cup broken nut meats
1/2 pound sweet or dipping chocolate, melted.
Cut marshmallows, wetting scissors between cuts. Scatter, with nut meats, on bottom of buttered
pan. Melt chocolate over hot water, then pour over nuts and marshmallows. When cooked, cut in
squares. Makes about 16 pieces."
---Young America's Cook Book: A Cook Book for Boys and Girls Who Like Good Food,
Compiled by The Home Institute of the New York Herald Tribune [Charles Scribner's Sons:New
York] copyright 1938 (p. 214)
[NOTE: This is the correct name of the cookbook referenced by Mariani.]

"Malted milk...Originally created in 1887 as an easily digested infant's food made from an extract
of wheat and malted barley combined with milk and made into a powder called "diastoid" by
James and William Horlick of Racine, Wisconsin, this item, under the name "Horlick's Malted
Milk," was featured by the Walgreen drugstore chain as part of a chocolate milk shake, which
itself became known as a "malted" and became one of the most popular soda-fountain
drinks."
---The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani
[Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 196-197)

"Malted milk was a trade name registered by William Horlick of Racine, Wisconsin. Horlick supposedly coined the name "malted milk,"
but his formula resembled one already being marketed in England. He promoted his mixture of dried milk extracts of malted
barley and wheat as a food supplement for infants and invalids. As such, it was widely availalbe in drugstores, both as as
powder and as a tablet. Enterprising druggists soon discovered that they could use powdered malted milk to make a cheap
syurp to flavor drinks. When ice cream was added, a malted was both tasty and filling, since the dried milk and the ice cream
had a high fat content. Druggists promoted the drink as a complete meal and charged a premium price. Horlick's malted milk was
the first in the United States but it was widely imitated by other manufacturers, including Carnation and Borden's. Although
Horlick protested that thes other companies were infringing on his rights, his competitors cited legal precedents in their
favor. Horlick persuaded some state associations of drugstore owners to boycott his rivals' products, and there was much
animosity among the malted milk manufacturers....Malted milk sold steadily for decades than then became a fad in the 1920s, largely
due to an electric blender invented by Fred Osius. Osius, who lived in Racine, prefected a mixer that blended a smooth,
thick drink. At first, he tried to interest Horlick in his invention, but the malted milk magnate ridiculed him. In 1910,
Osseus made a trip to New York City, tring to find investors but was unsuccessful and ran out of money. In order to pay his
way back to Wisconsin, he persuaded the owner of the Caswell-Massey store on Broadway to take a blender as collateral for
a loan. This blender was a big hit with Caswell-Massey's customers, who were fascinated by the way it worked. The sales
manager for a leading manufacturer of milk products saw this blender at Caswell-Massey and immediately grasped its
potentia. Subsequently, his company arranged to buy blenders from Ossius and give them to soda fountain operators who bought 100
pounds of its malted milk. Bulk malted milk sales increased from less than one million pounds annually in 1910 to more than
35 million in 1926. The drinks were so popular that several chains of malted milk shops sprang up on the West Coast in the
1920s."
---Sundae Best: A History of Soda Fountains, Anne Cooper Funderburg [Bowling Greeen State University Popular Press:Bowling
Green, OH] 2002 (p. 50-51)
[Fred Osius' patent #D104,289, granted April 27, 1937,
here. NOTE: Osius is not credited for inventing the first
blender. That honor belongs to Stephen J. Poplawski in 1922.
About blenders.]

"1883...English-American inventor William Horlick, 37, produces the first "malted milk" (he will
coin the phrase in 1886) at Racine, Wis. He has combined dried whole milk with extract of wheat
and malted barley in powder and tablet form, and his "diastoid" is the first dried whole milk that
will keep...."
---The Food Chronology, James L.Trager [Henry Holt:New York] 1995 (p. 317)

"Milk shake...When the term first appeared in print in 1885, milk shakes may have contained
whiskey of some kind, but by the turn of the century they were considered wholesome drinks
made with chocolate, strawberry, or vanilla syrups. In different parts of the country they went by
different names...A "malted" is made with malted milk powder-invented in 1887 by William
Horlick of Racine Wisconsin, and made from dried milk, malted barley, and wheat flour-promoted
at first as a drink for invalids and children. By the 1930s a malt shop' was a soda fountain not
attached to a pharmacy."
---The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani
[Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 206)

"Milk shake also appeared in the late 1880s, but the term then usually meant a sturdy, healthful
egg nog type of drink, with eggs, whiskey, etc., served as a tonic as well as a treat. Since malted
milk was also considered a tonic, the combined malted milk shake was a logical step and in the
early 1900s people were asking for the new treat, often with ice cream, and before 1910 were
using the shorter terms shake and malt (the longer word malted being somewhat more common in
the Eastern states). Malt shop was a term of the late 1930s, usually being a typical soda fountain
of the period, especially one used by students as a meeting place or hangout."
---Listening to America, Stuart Berg Flexner [Simon & Schuster:New York] 1982 (p.
178)

"It is not known exactly when milkshakes were introduced at soda fountains, but they were popular by the mid-1880s. Tufts
patented his Lightning Shaker for mixing milkshakes in 1884, and trade publications printed numerous ads for shakers in the 1890s.
These handcrafted machines agitated glasses filled with liquid, producing smooth, thick drinks...Tufts' 1890 trade catalog said
that the milkshake "has sprung into great popularity in the South in a surprisingly short time...It can be made of any flaor, but
vanilla and chocolate are the most desirable flavors. This catalog included a milkshake recipe, which instructed the
dispenser to fill a tumbler half-full of shaved ice, add 1.5 ounces of syrup, finish filling the glass with milk, and shake well.
For a little extra punch, the recipe said to add port wine. In order to make a richer shake, upscale fountains used a
combination of heavy cream or ice cream and milk. While most milkshakes sold for a nickel, these creamier shakes cost 10 to 15
cents. Saxe's New Guide, or Hints to Soda Dispensers warned against giving the customer a wide choice of milkshake flavors
because it slowed down service while the dispenser waited for the patron to decide."
---Sundae Best: A History of Soda Fountains, Anne Cooper Funderburg [Bowling Greeen State University Popular Press:Bowling
Green, OH] 2002 (p. 51-52)

If you need additional information on the history of soda fountains
ask your librarian to help you find this book:The Great American Ice Cream Book, Paul Dickson
& check out: The Drug Store Museum.

[1884] Neapolitan Ice-Cream
---Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook Book, Mrs. D.A. Lincoln
[NOTE: there is no mention of molds or using two/three flavors to compose a brick of ice cream.]

[1885]
"Neapolitan or Pinachee Cream Ice.
You must have a Neapolitan box for this ice and fill it up in 3 or 4 layers with different coloured
and flavoured ice creams (a water ice may be used with the custards); for instance, lemon, vanilla,
chocolate, and pistachio. Mould in the patent ice cave for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours, turn it out, cut it
in slices, and arrange neatly on the dish on a napkin or dish-paper."
---The Book of Ices, A. B. Marshall [1885] (p. 18)
(Reprinted in Victorian Ices and Ice Cream, Barbara Ketcham Wheaton--includes a
picture of Mrs. Marshall's patented ice cave' on page 57, Neapolitan boxes on page 53)

[1894]
"Neapolitan Ices.
These are prepared by putting ices of various kinds and colours into a mould known as a
Neapolitan ice box, which, when set and turned out, is cut into slices suitable for serving.
However small the pieces, the block should be cut so that each person gets a little of each kind; to
do this, slice downwards first, then cut the slices thorugh once or twice in the contrary direction.
They are generally laid on a lace paper on an ice plate. Four or five kinds are usually put in the
mould, though three sorts will do. The following will serve as a guide in arranging: First, vanilla
cream, then raspberry or cherry or currant water; coffee or chocoalte in the middle; the strawberry
cream, with lemon or orange or pine-apple water to finish. A cream ice, flavoured with any
liqueur, a brown bread cream flavoured with brandy, with a couple of bright-coloured water ices,
form another agreeable mixture. Tea cream may be introduced into almost any combination unless
coffee be used. Banana cream, pistachio or almond cream, with cherry water and damson or
strawberry water, will be found very good. The spoon shown [Neapolitan Ice Spoon] has a
double use; the bowl is for putting the mixture into the mould, and the handle is for levelling it;
naturally, it is equally useful for other ices. The boxes may be had in tin at much less cost than
pewter;they are also sold small enought to make single ices, but these are much more troublesome
to prepare. After filling the moulds, if no cave, "bed" in ice in the usual way."
---Cassell's New Universal Cookery Book, Lizzie Heritage [Cassell and
Company:London] 1894 (p. 967)
[NOTE: this book also contains a drawing of a Neapoltian Ice Box.]

[1924]
"Neapolitan Ice Cream
This is popularly known as a mixture of creams moulded together , as vanilla, strawberry, and
pistachio; as a matter of fact, the term really means a cooked rich custard cream."
---Mrs. Allen on Cooking, Menus, Service, Ida C. Bailey Allen c. 1924 [Doubleday,
Doran & Company:Garden City NY] 1929 (p. 691)

[1940]
"Neapolitan Ice Cream
1 pint strawberry ice-cream
1 pint pistachio ice-cream
1 pint orange ice
(Any preferred combination of flavors may be used instead of these)
Pack a mold in salt and ice and spread the strawberry ice cream smoothly over the bottom. If it is
not very firm, cover and let it stand for a few minutes. Spread a good layer of orange ice upon it,
and as soon as this hardens, spread over it the pistachio ice-cream. Cover and freeze."
---The American Woman's Cook Book, edited and revised by Ruth Berolzheimer
[Consolidated Book Publishers:Chicago IL] 1940 (p. 569)

PHILADELPHIA, HOME OF AMERICAN ICE CREAM
"Philadelphia became renowned for its ice cream, and the phrase 'Philadelphia ice cream,' used since the early nineteenth century, came to mean a specifically
American style of rich ice cream. One proud Philadelphia confectioner of the nineteenth century James W. Parkinson,...wrote of the prejudicial distinction made
between American and French frozen desserts."
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 163)

"Philadelphia ice cream is a term synonymous with the best in frozen confections. Though not invented here (forms of ice creams have been around since the 13th
century) Philadelphians developed an impeccable reputation for ice cream by the end of the 18th century. Victor Collet and James Parkinson built their businesses
on elegant glaces and ices impossibly molded into unusual ornaments."
---The Larder Invaded: Reflections on Three Centuries of Philadelphia Food and Drink, Mary Anne Hines, Gordon Marshall, William Woys Weaver
[Library Company of Philadelphia:Philadelphia PA] 1987 (p. 57)

"What is this Philadelphia ice cream? It means ice cream "Simon pure," made of the richest ingredients. When American was young and ice cream was
"that new dessert." the very best of it was made by the Quakers. So it was that when anyone anywhere wanted to claim high honor for his ice cream he prefixed it
with the name Philadelphia. This real-thing ice cream has but three ingredients in its basic recipe: cream, sugar and a touch of the vanilla bean. Fruits and other
flavors can be added as you will..."
---"How America Eats," Clementine Paddleford, Los Angeles Times, May 8, 1949 (p. F36)

"Everyone knows Philadelphia as the city of brotherly love where our independence was declared in 1776, but how may of you are aware that it is the ice cream
capital of the country, maybe of the world? When Philadelphia became the seat of government and George Washington the first President, "iced creams" as they
were then called were often served at the presidential Thursday dinners. We believe they were not quite the same as our luscious delights made commercially or at
home in an ice cream freezer, but were mixtures of cream, sugar and eggs beaten in metal bowls over ice so that they had more the texture of the soft ice cream
sold in certain places today. After the great exposition of 1876 Philadelphia became known across the country for the excellence of its ice cream, by then a
popular American delicacy, and to this day the words "Philadelphia ice cream" connote the highest quality. Philadelphia confectioners were famed for their ice
cream."
---"Philly the Ice Cream Capital," James A. Beard, Los Angeles Times, August 5, 1971 (p. J4)

LEGAL DEFINITIONS
In the early 20th century, Pure Food and Drug laws were enacted to ensure standardized quality for the American consumer. The legal definition of ice cream,
including Philadelphia style, was the topic of hot debate. In 1916, the US Supreme Court acknowledged two definitions for Philadelphia ice cream:
Hutchinson Ice Cream V. Iowa (242 US) 153 [1916]:

"The ice cream of commerce is not iced or frozen cream. It is a frozen confection-a compound. The ingredients of this compound may vary widely in character, in
the number used, and in the proportions in which they are used. These variations are dependent upon the ingenuity, skill, and judgment of the maker, the relative
cost at a particular time or at a particular place of the possible ingredients, and the requirements of the market in respect to taste or selling price. Thus, some
Philadelphia ice cream is made of only cream, sugar, and a vanilla flavor. In making other Philadelphia ice cream the whites of eggs are added; and according to
some formulas vanilla ice cream may be made without any cream or milk whatsoever; for instance, by proper manipulation of the yolks of eggs, the whites of eggs,
sugar, syrup, and the vanilla bean. All of these different compounds are commonly sold as ice cream; and none of them is necessarily unwholesome."
SOURCE: Findlaw, US Supreme Court Cases

"Our tariffs have supplied diverting examples showing that laws are not always what they seem, and not always passed for the assigned motive, whether personal or
partisan. But these examples usually are too obscure for popular understanding. Generally, such incidents pertain to the higher circles into which the common people
are intruders...The highest court in the land has within a few weeks pondered over the problem of what is ice cream, and whether there can be such a thing as ice
cream without a drop of cream..."Some Philadelphia ice cream"--only "some"--is made of only cream, sugar, and a vanilla flavor." Happy those who get it. But
observe, either Philadelphia ice creams, number unstated, "may be made without any milk or cream whatsoever; for instance, by proper manipulation of the yolks of
eggs, the whites of eggs sugar, syurp and the vanilla bean. All of these different compounds are commonly sold as ice cream, and none of them is necessarily
unwholesome. The people's prosecutor claimed that it was a fraud and a crime to sell ice cream without at least a specified percentage of cream. The sellers of the
miscellanous and mysterious compound defended on the ground that one man has a good a right as another to say what he shall put into his ice cream formula. But
the Supreme Court found that the buyer also has his rights. He had the right to know what he is buying, and he cannot know without laws implementing standards
on the point to which he attaches most importance, that at least some milk and butter shall be included in what he buys as ice cream."
---"How Taxation and Regulation of Food Works," Edward A. Bradford, New York Times, March 4, 1917 (p. SM6)

Current US definitions are set forth in the Code of Federal Regulations: TITLE 21--FOOD AND DRUGS CHAPTER I--FOOD AND DRUG
ADMINISTRATION, DEPARTMENT OF HEALTH AND HUMAN SERVICES (CONTINUED) PART 135_FROZEN DESSERTS. There is no specific
reference to "Philadelphia" in the current regulations. There are references to "French" ice cream, contain egg yolks.

"(f) Nomenclature. (1) The name of the food is ``ice cream''; except that when the egg yolk solids content of the food is in excess of that specified for ice cream by
paragraph (a) of this section, the name of the food is ``frozen custard'' or ``french ice cream'' or ``french custard ice cream''."
SOURCE: CFR/GPO

SURVEY OF HISTORIC RECIPES

[1792]
Ice Cream (recipe published in Philadelphia)
"Ice Creams. Take a dozen ripe apricots, pare them very thin and stone them, scald and put them into a mortar, and beat them fine; put to them six ounces of
double refined sugar, a pint of scalding cream, and rub it through a sieve with the back of a spoon; then put it into a tine with a close cover, and set it in a tub of ice
broken small, with four handsful of salt mixt among the ice; when you see your cream get thick round the edges of your tin, stir it well, and put it in again till it
becomes quite thick; when the cream is all froze up, take it out of the tin, and put it into the mould you intend to turn it out of: mind that you put a piece of paper on
each end, between the lids and the ice cream, put on the top lid, and have another tub of ice ready, as before, put the mould in the middle, with the ice under and
over it; let it stand four hours, and do not turn it out before you want it; then dip the mould into cold spring water, take off the lids and paper, and turn it into a
plate. You may do any sort of fruit the same way.---The New Art of Cookery, According to the Present Practice, Richard Briggs [W. Spotswood, R. Campbell, and B. Jonhson:Philadelphia PA] 1792 (p. 399-400)

[1924]
"Philadelphia Ice cream. Three pints of cream, one pint of milk, three-fourths pound confectionery sugar, whites of two eggs, one and one-half tablespoonfuls
of vanilla. Mix uncooked, stand in freezer until thoroughly chilled, then freeze."
---The Carbondale Cook Book, prepared by the Young Lady Workers of the Methodist Episcopal Church of Carbondale, PA [International Textbook Press:Scranton PA], Seventh edition, revised and enlarged, 1924 (p. 111)

[1925]
"Trade Definitions Perfected by Usage. All ice creams are clasiffed by the ice-cream trade according to both ingredients and methods of preparation.
Philadelphia ice cream is made without eggs. Neapolitan, Delmonico and French ice cream call for eggs, and include cream with a cooked body. But cooked body
creams, made with eggs, flour or cornstarch, and cream or milk, are more properly designated Frozen Custards."
---The Dispenser's Formulary, compiled by The Soda Fountain, [Soda Fountain Publications:New York] 1925, 4th edition (p. 25)

[1963]
Anna Wetherill Reed's The Philadelphia Cook Book of Town and Country [Bramhall House:NY] 1963 offers several ice cream recipes. None of them are specificially titled "Philadelphia." Nor do any of them include eggs or egg yolks.

"As for the specfic birthplace of the dish, two possibilities emerge as the most likely among many
contenders. Neither place can offer conclusive dates, so one can pick between, "Heavenston"
(favored by the National Dairy Council, among others) and Two Rivers (championed by such
divers sources as the old Ice Cream Review and H.L. Mencken in his American Language).
The first claim goes back to the 1890s in Evanston, Illinois (then widely known as "Chicago's
Heaven" or "Heavenston"), where civic piety had reached such a state that it became the first
American community to recognize and legislate against the "Sunday Soda Menace." This
prompted confectioners to create Sundays so that they could do business on the Sabbath.
Ironically the soda was later given a strong boost from this community when the Evanston-based
Women's Christian Temperance Union (WCTU) championed it as a pleasant alternative to
alcoholic drinks.
The Two Rivers, Wisconsin, claim goes back to the same era...was created when a youth
named George Hallauer went to Ed Berner's soda fountain for a rich of ice cream. As the ice
cream was being scooped, the daring Hallauer spied a bottle of chocolate syrup normally used in
sodas and asked Berner to pour some of it over his ice cream. Berner sampled the concoction
and liked it enough to begin featuring "ice cream with syrup" in his shop for the same price as a
dish of ice cream. The name sundae was give to the dish when George Giffy, an ice cream parlor
proprietor in nearby Manitowoc, was forced by customer demand to serve the popular Berner
concoction. Giffy was convinced that the nickel dish would put him out of business and at first
served it only as a Sunday loss leader. In Manitowoc it soon became known as "the Sunday." Giffy
found that he was making money on the dish and began advertising his "Ice Cream Sundaes,"
with the spelling changed so that it would lose its Sunday-only association.
Regardless of the origin, by 1900, midwestern soda-fountain supply salesmen were carrying
samples of tulip-shaped "Sundae Specials."
---The Great American Ice Cream Book, Paul Dickson [Atheneum:New York] 1972 (p. 64-6)

"Little is known with certainty about the sundae's birth: it originated in the late 1880s or early 1890s; one of the
first published sundae recipes appeared in Modern Guide for Soda Dispensers in 1897; and sundaes were very popular by
1900. Many accounts of the sundae's invention have been published, but there is no definative evidence about it. The best-known
explanation for the sundae is that it was created to circumvent Blue Laws banning the sale of ice cream sodas on Sunday.
Beginning in the colonial era, Blue Laws were promulgated to prohibit certain activities on the Sabbath...Over the years, Blue Laws
banned many activities, but enforcement was very lax and sporadic...In 1890, only a few Blue Laws expressly mentioned
confectionery or soda water. Maryland banned Sunday sales of soda and mineral waters along with tobacco, candy, and
alcoholic beverages. Louisiana specifically permitted Sunday sales at drugstores, apothecary shops, bakeries, restaurants,
theaters and other places of amusement as long as no intoxicating drinks were sold. Minnesota allowed the sale of
confectioenry, drugs, and medicines "in a quiet and orderly manner." Texas law permitted drugstores to open on Sunday and specified
ice cream among the articles that could be sold on the Sabbath. Utah's Blue Laws banned a long list of activities on Sunday,
but they permitted many businesses, including drugstores and restaurants, to open. Given the number and scope of the Blue Laws, it is
not surprising that the invention of the sundae is often attributed to a druggist trying to circumvent the law against serving
soda on Sunday. In one version, President Theodore Roosevelt was responsible for the sundae because he banned ice cream
sodas on Sunday and fountain operators responded by creating the new soda-less treat. This tale probably originated because
Roosevelt, while serving as head of New York City's Police Board, made well-publicized attempts to enforce the Sunday closing law for
saloons. However, it is unlikely that Roosevelt was the father of the ice cream sundae because the New York State legal code specifically
permitted the sale of confectionery and drugs on Sunday. The best-known Blue Laws story concerns Evanston, Illinois...
Evanston's pious town fathers passed an ordinance prohibiting the sale fo ice cream sodas on the Sabbath. Some ingenious druggist
decided to serve ice cream with syrup but no soda, there by complying with the letter of the law, if not the spirit.
Evanston's local historians hae identified this clever druggist as either William C. "Deacon" Garwood or Newton P. Williams...
In a variation on this theme, Cleveland, Ohio, also claimed to be the birthplace of the sundae...one druggist with a flourishing
Sunday trade started serving ice cream topped with fruit. He advertised this treat as a "fruit Sunday," but his regular
customers started ordering it on weekdays, too. So he changed the spelling to "sundae."...In another version of the sundae's origin
a necessity was the mother invention. A New Orleans druggist had a brisk soda water trade, but one hot day he discovered
that his fountain wasn't working properly and he was unable to draw andy soda. However, he had plenty of syrups and ice
cream on hand. After hastily conferring with his clerks, he decided to serve ice cream with syrup on top...A similar tale
of necessity places the birth of the ice cream sundae at Stoddard Brothers drugstore in Buffalo, New York...Ithaca [NY]
also claimed that distinction, and there are two accounts...The Red Cross Pharmacy was located directly across the street from the
barroom of the Ithaca Hotel. Because the bar was closed on the Sabbath, the druggist decided to offer a special
Sunday treat to attract the bar's displaced clientele to his fountain...The second Ithaca legend involves a young
clergyman who regularly stopped at the Christiance and Dofflemeyer Drugstore for a dish of ice cream after his Sunday
sermon. One hot Sunday, neither ice cream nor soda water appealed to him because he was in the mood for something different. So
he asked the fountain operator to pour cherry syrup over a dish of ice cream. He was delighted with the new treat and named
it "Sunday."...Another legend about the sundae's birth recognizes Geroge Hallauer as the father and E.C. Berners as the midwife [Two Rivers, WI]..."
---Sundae Best: A History of Soda Fountains, Anne Cooper Funderburg [Bowling Greeen State University Popular Press:Bowling
Green, OH] 2002 (p.61-64)

"In serving sundaes it is important that the appeal should be made to the eye as well as to the palate. It is poor policy to slap
together a messy concoction. Never let the syrups run over the edge of the sundae glass. See that the handle of the spoon is not
sticky with syrup. Place nuts, cherries, or knobs of whipped cream carefully on the sundae so that the effect may be pleasing."
---Dispenser's Formulary [Soda Fountain Publications:New York] 1925 (p. 104)

"Sundaes and Fancy Ice Cream Dishes.
Before the idea of topping ice cream with nuts, fruits and fancy dressings originated, soda
dispensers were more or less handicapped to show distinct forms of originality. Now the mixture
of ice creams, and the arrangements of fancy dishes not only furnishes the dispenser an outlet for
his ideas, but they produce a big revenue for the modern soda fountain. In serving ice cream, it is
suggested that a china or silver cup be used. Wafers, mints, and other tidbits are very nice to
serve along with the ice cream. A small glass of ice water should always be served with each order.
The following formulas are for plain and fancy sundaes or eclairs:

Cherry Sunday
1 disher of vanilla ice cream
Ladle of cherries and top with a large red cherry
...White Cherry Sundae
1 disher of vanilla ice cream
Ladle of white cherries. Top with a large white cherry
...French Violet Sunday
Place a disher of vanilla ice cream in a sundae cup and over it pour a ladle of French violet
bisque... Top with a red cherry
...Chong special
Into a tall slender frappe glass place a small disher of strawberry ice cream, enough to fill about
one-half of the glass. Over this pour a little caramel syrup, then in the remainder of the glass place
a disher of chocolate ice cream. Over this pour a ladle of marshmallow dressing, sprinkle with
ground nuts, and top with a whole cherry.
...Fountain special
Into a tall slender frappe glass place a small disher of vanilla ice cream. Pour a little marshmallow
dressing over this. Fill remainder of glass with small disher of strawberry ice cream. Top with
butterscotch dressing, and over this sprinkle toasted
---Rigby's Reliable Candy Teacher, W. O. Rigby [1916?] (p. 229-231)
[NOTE: a "disher" is an ice cream scoop.]