Description

The first trad route right of the cave, beginning just right of Molsen's Madness (the obvious right to left traversing bolted crack). Climb from the right side of the cave onto a large ledge. Getting off the ledge is the crux of the route, followed by some great crack climbing after a traverse left crimping across a flake. Follow the crack to a fixed pin anchor.

Protection

There are a couple of fixed nuts, but its a trad route. Bring a long-dong LA to hand place in the traverse flake - bomber.

A pretty tough route with a hard cranking start. I found the upper part after the traverse to be kinda hard too, though fixed nuts would certainly help. Nice climb, the upper two pitches are really good too but are best approached on rap

Nice contribution, and a kick-ass pitch. I think that the top of the pitch is at least as difficult as the start, and there weren't any fixed nuts on my attempts.. Perhaps not if both sections were encountered with fresh arms, but on a lead attempt, the top feels harder to me. The LA beta sounds like good advice. I'm still not sure how, but I whipped off the end of the traverse in 2001 (where the holds are good) and narrowly missed getting injured when I impacted the ledge below. I believe Rob Frost has footage of that bumbling bit of climbing (and falling). I hope to redpoint someday......

I wish i had thought of the hand placed pin, i used a hook. It's not absolutely needed, but the traverse is not that easy and the gear at the end is good but strenno to place. Just a killer,demanding pitch,, a fight to the end

upper pitches do look cool. Sneoh-i'm guessing this flake is like the one on the second pitch of ? (drawing a blank, left of mordor) With the direction of fall and how the pin cams itself in, can be way bomber. Especially if there is an existing pin placement for it to go into, it would be pretty diesel. Always wanted to try this pitch.

you would just slot the pin in and since you were below it and if you fall, it would cam in. then when you stood up on the flake and placed gear it would pull out. that was the idea at least. there's one in there right now, it got stuck and it was only hand/foot placed.