The New Essentials Cookbook: A Modern Guide to Better Cooking

Take your cooking skills to the next level while developing a knockout repertoire of 200 essential dishes that satisfy what our modern palates crave, from simple meals to dinner-party center-pieces.

We've made improvements to well-loved dishes by incorporating innovative techniques in recipes such as Butter-Basted Rib-Eye Steak and added modern classics such as Vegetable Bibimbap and Olive Oil-Yogurt Bundt Cake.

In this book, you'll find the perfect roast chicken and a killer banana bread but also a Turkish-inspired tomato soup, luscious Chinese braised short ribs, and a set of wholesome grain bowls. A chapter on weeknight dinners offers smart paths to great flavor-from Bucatini with Peas, Kale, and Pancetta that cooks in one pot to a pizza that bakes in a skillet-including plenty of vegetarian options. Other chapters turn up the volume on breakfast and dessert standbys; try the 100 Percent Whole-Wheat Pancakes and Brown Sugar Cookies and you may never go back to the regular versions. We'll also help you pull off your next-or even your first!-dinner party with recipes guaranteed to impress (and to work), such as Braised Lamb Shanks with Bell Peppers and Harissa, Miso-Marinated Salmon, and Roasted Zucchini and Eggplant Lasagna.

Most of us-not just newbies-could stand to bone up on certain culinary basics, and our methods may surprise even more experienced cooks, from seeding fresh chiles (we use a measuring spoon) to hulling strawberries (a plastic straw works well). And that's just the tip of the iceberg of what these recipes teach. You'll discover how to "reverse sear" thick pork chops so they turn out juicy all the way through, grind meat in a food processor for the ultimate burger, and shape fresh corn tortillas without a tortilla press or rolling pin.

As you progress through this book, you will also gain a deeper understanding of ingredients, better -techniques, and the secrets we use in the test kitchen via sidebars called "Think Like a Cook," which offers insights that can help in your larger culinary life. For example:

How to Be an Avocado Whisperer: Squeezing that avocado is just going to bruise it. Learn a better way to tell when it's ripe.

Improvising a Pan Sauce: After searing a steak, chop, or chicken breast, don't clean the pan! We show you how to use these browned bits to make a rich, deeply flavored sauce.

How Cheese Melts: Learn why some cheeses melt smoothly while others turn greasy-plus a trick to help cheddar melt without breaking.

The Egg-Doneness Continuum: See the difference between soft-, hard-, and overcooked eggs and find a foolproof method for nailing it every time (and removing the shells more easily).

You can write a book review and share your experiences. Other readers will always be interested in your opinion of the books you've read. Whether you've loved the book or not, if you give your honest and detailed thoughts then people will find new books that are right for them.

CLEANING AND CARING FOR YOUR EQUIPMENT
We’ve created our share of messes in the test kitchen and have had a few cooking snafus that required tons of cleanup. Along the way, we’ve learned a few tricks to get those pans shining like new again.
CLEANING EVERYDAY MESSES
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1. BOIL WATER To clean a dirty traditional skillet (this usually isn’t necessary for nonstick pans), fill it halfway with tap water. Bring to a boil, uncovered, and boil briskly for two or three minutes. Turn off the burner.
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2. SCRAPE OFF RESIDUE Scrape the pan with a wooden spatula, pour off the water, and let sit briefly. Residue will start to flake off as the pan dries. Wash the skillet with hot water and dishwashing liquid, and dry.
CLEANING STUBBORN MESSES
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1. SPRINKLE ON CLEANSER To clean stuck-on gunk, moisten the pan with water, then shake on powdered cleansers, like Cameo (for stainless steel, anodized aluminum, or nonstick surfaces) and Bar Keepers Friend (for stainless steel or nonstick surfaces).
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2. SCRUB THE PAN Using a copper scrubber for stainless-steel skillets and a nylon scrubber for nonstick or anodized aluminum skillets, scrub the pan with circular motions. Finish by washing the pan with hot water and dishwashing liquid, then dry.
DUTCH OVENS
Enameled Dutch ovens are prone to staining, and while we’re not concerned with keeping our cookware pristine, staining can be problematic if the bottom of the pot darkens so much that we can’t monitor browning. We found that the best way to deep-clean a stained pot is to let it soak overnight in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and then wash it thoroughly with soap and water.
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A Dutch oven’s enameled surface is very durable, but it’s not completely impervious and can be subject to chipping. To help keep the enamel intact, don’t subject your pot to dramatic tem; perature changes, especially near moisture. Don’t clear food from utensils by whacking them on the pot’s rim. Don’t scrape metal utensils—specifically, sharp ones—along the bottom.
CUTTING BOARDS
Routine cleaning is essential; scrub your board thoroughly in hot, soapy water (or put it through the dishwasher if it’s dishwasher-safe) to kill harmful bacteria, then rinse it well and dry it completely. For stubborn odors, scrub the cutting board with a paste of 1 tablespoon of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of water, then wash with hot, soapy water. To remove stubborn stains from plastic boards, mix a solution of 1 tablespoon of bleach per quart of water in the sink and immerse the board, dirty side up. When the board rises to the surface, drape a kitchen towel or two over its surface and sprinkle the towel with about ¼ cup of the bleach solution. Let it sit overnight, then wash it with hot, soapy water.
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If using a wood or bamboo board, maintain it by applying a food-grade mineral oil every few weeks when the board is new, and a few times a year thereafter. (Don’t use olive or vegetable oil, which can become rancid.) The oil soaks into the fibers of the board, creating a barrier to excess moisture. Avoid leaving wood or bamboo boards resting in water, or they will eventually split.
NONSTICK PANS
Nearly all nonstick pans rely on a top coat of poly­tetra­fluor­oethy­lene (PTFE) that keeps the surface slick and prevents food from sticking. Cooking over high heat, using abrasive pads, or washing the pan in the dishwasher will all cause this polymer to wear away. To prolong the nonstick coating’s life, wash nonstick pans gently with a nonabrasive pad, and once they are dry, we recommend storing them using one of the following two methods.
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A. SEPARATE AND STACK The surface of a nonstick skillet can chip or scratch easily, especially if you stack it with other pans. To protect the nonstick surface, place a double sheet of paper towels, bubble wrap, or a cheap paper plate between each pan as you stack them.
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B. SEAL AND STACK Alternatively, before stacking smaller nonstick pans, slide them into large zipper-lock bags (2-gallon size for 10-inch pans and 1-gallon size for 8-inch pans). The plastic will protect the nonstick surface. Note that a 12-inch skillet will not fit in a zipper-lock bag.
BLENDERS AND FOOD PROCESSORS
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After you’re done using your blender, clean it by “blending” a warm soapy water mixture until the blades and jar are mostly clean, then rinse out the blender.
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A similar technique works for your food processor. To quickly rinse the workbowl between tasks, add a few drops of dish soap and warm water to the liquid fill line, run the machine for a few seconds, and rinse the bowl well. To give a dirty processor bowl a good soak, put a wine or champagne cork in the center hole so you can fill the bowl all the way to the top.
A WALK THROUGH YOUR KITCHEN
10 Habits of a Good Cook
Your Kitchen Starter Kit
Tools of the Trade
The Easy (and Electronic) Upgrades
Staple Ingredients You Will Count On
Anatomy of Your Refrigerator
Food Safety in 10 Easy Steps
When Is Food Done?
Knife School 101
At the Cutting Board
Basic Vegetable Prep
Basic Fruit Prep
How to Measure
Ways to Cook: In Liquid
Ways to Cook: With Fat
Ways to Cook: With Dry Heat
Ways to Cook: With an Open Flame
How to Season Food
10 HABITS OF A GOOD COOK
1 Read the Recipe Carefully and Follow the Directions—at Least the First Time
Almost everyone has embarked upon preparing a recipe only to realize midway through that the dish needs hours of chilling before it can be served or that it calls for a special pan that you don’t own. By reading the recipe through before you start to cook, you will avoid any surprises along the way. We also recommend making the recipe as directed the first time you cook it—once you understand the recipe, you can improvise and make it your own, but first you have to give it a fair shot as written.
2 Be Prepared (It’s Not Just for Boy Scouts)
Set out and organize your mise en place (see this page) before you start to cook: Track down all the equipment you will need for the recipe and prep all the ingredients (be sure to prepare the ingredients as instructed—food that is uniformly and properly cut will cook more evenly AND look better). A recipe is a lot simpler to make when all the components and tools you need are at your fingertips. That way your pasta won’t overcook when you can’t find your colander at the last minute and you won’t forget to add the baking soda to your cake.
3 Start with Good Ingredients
Don’t expect to turn old eggs into a nicely risen soufflé or make a stunning salad from the wilting greens that have been in your fridge for two weeks. Freshness matters, and the components you use can make or break your dish.
4 Keep Substitutions to a Minimum—No, Seriously
We’ve all done it—used brown sugar when there’s no granulated sugar in the pantry, subbed in whatever cheese we have on hand for the Gruyère in the recipe, poured the batter into a square pan when the round pan was nowhere to be found. There are certain substitutions that can work in a pinch—see this page for our list of emergency problem solvers—but in general you should use the ingredients and equipment called for in the recipe. This is especially true in baking, where even the slightest change can spell disaster. And if you use a 10-inch skillet when a 12-inch is called for, you’ll never get the sear you’re looking for on that chicken.
5 Always Preheat
Most ovens need at least 15 minutes to preheat fully. Plan accordingly. If you don’t preheat your oven correctly, then your food will spend more time in the oven and, as a result, will likely be dry and overcooked (and baked goods may suffer more dire consequences). Also, position the racks in the oven as directed—cookies that brown properly on the middle rack may overbrown when baked on the lower rack. These warnings also apply to preheating your pans on the stovetop. The temperature of the cooking surface will drop the minute food is added, so don’t rush the preheating step. Wait for the oil to shimmer when cooking vegetables, and wait until you see the first wisps of smoke rise from the oil when you’re cooking proteins.
6 Monitor the Dish as It Cooks
Ovens and stovetops can vary in intensity. And maybe you cut those carrots slightly larger than when we prepared the recipe. These little differences are why we often give a range when providing cooking times. You should treat cooking times as solid guidelines, but it is also important to follow the visual cues provided in the recipe. And don’t wait until the prescribed time has elapsed to check the doneness of a particular dish: It is good practice to start checking 5 to 10 minutes before the recipe says the food will be done.
7 Taste the Dish Before Serving
Most recipes end by instructing the cook to adjust the seasoning “to taste.” This means you actually have to taste the food. We generally write our recipes so you’re seasoning the food pretty lightly throughout the cooking process and then adding more as needed at the end. Foods that will be served chilled, such as gazpacho, should be tasted again when they are cold, since cold mutes the effect of seasonings. Don’t forget that there are other ways to season besides salt and pepper—see this page for some guidelines.
8 Learn from Your Mistakes—Your Education in the Kitchen Is a Lifelong Project
Even the experienced cooks in our test kitchen often turn out less-than-perfect food. (You have to work through the duds to get to the best possible recipes!) A good cook is able to analyze failure, pinpoint the cause, and then avoid that pitfall next time. A good cook also notices when something works particularly well, such as a combination of ingredients or a particular technique. Above all, a good cook is always learning. Don’t make a new dish every night of the year; if you find something you like, prepare it again and again until you master it and add it to your regular repertoire.
9 Know the Lingo
Some recipes are precise blueprints, specifying particular sizes, shapes, quantities, and cooking times. Other recipes are rough sketches that leave the cook to fill in the blanks. In addition to the level of detail supplied by the recipe writer, the level of knowledge the cook brings varies tremendously. Unfamiliar terminology can be a big problem, especially for novice cooks trying to work their way through a recipe—if you aren’t sure what a word means, check before proceeding with the recipe. Read about common cooking techniques starting on this page; then see Talk Like a Cook for additional often-used terms.
10 Enjoy Yourself. Food Should Be Fun!
In the end, a successful cook is someone who enjoys cooking. Yes, sometimes you just need to feed yourself, and there are plenty of recipes in this book for quick and painless meals when you aren’t feeling up to assembling a three-course feast. But even the simplest cooking tasks can be enjoyable. Take pride in your accomplishments. If you enjoy cooking, you will get in the kitchen more often—and practice really does make perfect.
YOUR KITCHEN STARTER KIT
If you’re just starting out in the kitchen, it’s easy to get overwhelmed by the variety of gear available. Despite the marketing hype, however, you don’t actually need a lot of fancy equipment and gadgets in order to cook well. Start with this list of the real basics: You won’t be able to tackle every recipe, but you’ll have a solid base to work from. See our recommendations for specific brands on this page.
All-Around Spatulas
Spatulas are your friend for everything from flipping burgers to serving lasagna. You need a plastic spatula to protect nonstick pans and a metal spatula for traditional pans.
Baking Dishes
These versatile dishes are ideal for large casseroles and baked goods. We recommend starting with a 13 by 9-inch porcelain dish; see this page for more information.
Can Opener
How else will you open tuna, beans, and SpaghettiOs? Openers that cut into the side of the can (not the top) leave dull edges and save fingers.
Cutting Board
Get a board with plenty of space (at least 20 by 15 inches). Wooden and plastic boards are both great; look for one that’s sturdy but still soft enough that it won’t beat up your knives.
Dutch Oven
Invest in a big enameled cast-iron Dutch oven and you’ll use it forever for everything from stews to frying and even baking bread. Built for both stovetop and oven use, a Dutch oven retains heat well, so it can maintain a low simmer. Choose one with wide handles and a tight-fitting lid.
Instant-Read Thermometer
A fast, accurate digital thermometer is the best way to know when food is done. See this page for more information.
Knives
Most knife sets are loaded with superfluous pieces. We consider just three knives essential: a chef’s knife, a paring knife, and a serrated knife. For more information see “Cut Out for Greatness”.
Measuring Tools
Essential measuring tools include dry measuring cups, a 2-cup liquid measuring cup, and measuring spoons. See this page for more information.
Mixing Bowls
Get bowls in a variety of sizes—at the very least, small (1- to 1½-quart), medium (2½- to 3-quart), and large (4- to 6-quart). Get two sets: stainless steel and glass. Lighter metal is convenient most of the time, but glass is necessary for the microwave.
Pepper Mill
Adding freshly ground pepper is one of the simplest ways to improve your food. Go for a manually operated model with an efficient, comfortable grinding mechanism.
Rimmed Baking Sheets/Wire Rack
We use rimmed baking sheets for everything from roasting vegetables to baking cookies. Fitted with a wire rack, it even becomes a roasting pan. Get at least two: They don’t cost much and you’ll use them all the time.
Saucepans
Get a 3- to 4-quart saucepan for sauces and vegetables plus a 2-quart nonstick one for foods that stick easily and reheating leftovers.
Silicone Spatula
Nothing is better suited to a multitude of tasks, be it reaching into the corners of bowls and pots, stirring batters, or folding egg whites, than a heatproof silicone spatula.
Skillets
Our best all-purpose skillet pick is a large (12-inch) traditional stainless steel and aluminum skillet. For more information about other options, see “Which Skillet Is Which?”
Tongs
Like an extension of your hand, a sturdy pair of stainless-steel tongs can lift or flip most any type of food.
Wooden Spoon
Basic, yes, but you won’t get far without a durable wooden spoon.
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which skillet is which?
If you do any amount of serious cooking, you will want at least one traditional and one nonstick skillet (cast iron and carbon steel can also function as nonstick). We recommend owning a smaller (8- or 10-inch) skillet and a large 12-inch skillet, both ovensafe with tight-fitting lids.
Traditional Tri-Ply
We prefer traditional skillets made of stainless steel sandwiched around an aluminum core. The finish (which is NOT nonstick) helps develop fond, the caramelized brown bits that stick to the bottom of the pan.
Nonstick
The coating on nonstick pans helps delicate foods like fish, pancakes, and eggs release easily. The nonstick coating will wear out over time, so choose a relatively inexpensive option.
Cast Iron
A cast-iron skillet (shown on this page) excels at searing and, if well seasoned, releases food as well as a nonstick surface. However, it does require extra effort to build and maintain its seasoning, so keep that in mind.
Carbon Steel
Carbon steel (shown on this page) also needs to be seasoned, but once it is, it offers the versatility of a traditional pan, the heat retention of cast iron at a lighter weight, and the slick release of a good nonstick skillet.
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pro tools for home cooks
Most gadgets used in a professional kitchen are unnecessary for a home cook, but here a few we find actually pretty useful.
Prep Bowls
A trained chef’s mise en place includes prepped ingredients corralled into small containers to make them easily accessible. This setup is also a great tool for home cooks. We like small, sturdy glass prep bowls.
Dish Towels
Handy, flexible cotton dish towels can be anything from a potholders to strainers to, yes, dish rags. Keep a stack of clean ones on hand at all times.
Digital Scale
If you’re careful (see this page), you can get pretty accurate results with measuring cups and spoons, but they’ll never match the precision of a scale. This is particularly true for baking, where an extra ounce of flour can ruin a recipe.
Honing Steel/Knife Sharpener
Most of the chefs we know are obsessed with keeping their knives sharp. Professional sharpening is an option, but it’s a lot more convenient to do it yourself. You can start by using a honing steel. When steeling isn’t enough, use a manual or electric sharpener. For more information, see this page
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
The items in this section will make your life much easier and more efficient. You should stock your kitchen so it works for you; choose the equipment that you find helpful and skip the rest, no matter the trends. See our recommendations for specific brands in the shopping guide on this page.
Balloon Whisk
A skinny balloon-style whisk with wires that curve out just a little bit is the best all-purpose tool; it can mix batters, beat eggs or cream, and make a pan sauce on the stove.
Citrus Juicer
While you can juice citrus without a tool (or with a fork), it’s much more efficient to use a juicer. Unless you’re juicing dozens of oranges every day, you probably only need a manual juicer, not an electric model.
Fat Separator
You can skim fat with a spoon, but a fat separator is more effective. We prefer models that drain from the bottom, since they make it easier to keep any fat from sneaking out with the liquid.
Fine-Mesh Strainer
A fine-mesh strainer is great for rinsing rice, washing vegetables, sifting flour or confectioners’ sugar, and straining sauces. Make sure the mesh really is fine, so nothing slips through the holes. You may also want a colander for draining pasta.
Garlic Press
For most home cooks, a garlic press is a much easier way to get a fine, even mince or paste than using a knife. With a good press, you don’t even have to peel the cloves first.
Grater
A box grater with a variety of easy-to-use planes can handle almost any task. We also love rasp-style graters. These wand-like tools are ideal for finely grating Parmesan, garlic, nutmeg, chocolate, and citrus zest.
Kitchen Shears
A pair of kitchen shears is one of the best all-around tools, useful for butterflying chicken, trimming pie dough, shaping parchment paper, snipping herbs, and cutting kitchen twine.
Ladle
A long ladle makes it easier to scoop and serve soup. One with a shallow bowl is also helpful for scraping the bottom of the pot.
Oven Thermometer
We hate to break it to you, but your oven might not be as accurate as you think it is (see this page). For reliable, consistent results, a good oven thermometer is critical.
Pastry Brush
A sturdy pastry brush with silicone bristles can handle a range of tasks, from spreading thick barbecue sauce on meat to delicately painting egg wash on pastry. Silicone is easy to clean and doesn’t hold onto stains or odors.
Potato Masher
While you’ll need a ricer or food mill for truly velvety mashed potatoes (see this page), a classic handheld masher is a solid backup choice.
Rolling Pin
We prefer the classic French-style handle-free wood rolling pins; they easily turn and pivot and allow you to feel the thickness of the dough and apply pressure as needed. Look for a pin that’s about 20 inches long.
Salad Spinner
This one-purpose gadget might seem like a waste, but it’s really the best way to get greens and other produce clean and dry. Choose one with a large basket and a pump mechanism.
Slotted Spoon
Use this for scooping and draining small or delicate foods from boiling water, hot oil, or sauce. We prefer a no-frills stainless-steel model. A spider skimmer, which is larger with more open area for drainage, can also be useful when blanching and frying.
Vegetable Peeler
A good peeler should be fast and smooth, shaving off just enough of the skin to avoid the need for repeat trips over the same section but not so much that the blade digs deeply into the flesh and wastes food. Look for stainless- or carbon-steel blades.
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THE EASY (AND ELECTRONIC) UPGRADES
If you want to cook every recipe in this book successfully, you’ll need a few extra items. Most of these aren’t things you’ll use every day, but when you need them, you’ll be glad to have them. That’s especially true of the small appliances listed here—in particular, the food processor, which we use for everything from pureeing vegetables to kneading bread and pasta dough. See our recommendations for specific brands in the shopping guide on this page.
APPLIANCES
Blender
A blender is the only tool that can bring foods (hot or cold) to a uniformly smooth texture, whether you’re making milkshakes and frozen drinks or pureeing soups and sauces. You might also consider an immersion blender, which is useful for small jobs like blending salad dressings and pureeing soup right in the pot.
Electric Mixer
A handheld mixer is lightweight, easy to use, and great for most basic tasks, like whipping cream or egg whites, creaming butter and sugar, and making a batter; the only thing it can’t handle is kneading dough. But that’s no problem for a stand mixer. If you are a serious cook or baker, a stand mixer is simply something you need. If you bake only occasionally, a handheld mixer is fine. Either will work with the recipes in this book.
Electric Spice/Coffee Grinder
Freshly ground whole spices have a superior aroma and roundness of flavor versus preground spices. The test kitchen standard for grinding spices is a blade-type electric coffee grinder.
Food Processor
If you are investing in one big-ticket appliance, it should be a food processor. It can chop foods that blenders can’t handle, as well as slice and shred and mix up batters and doughs.
POTS AND PANS
Roasting Pan
This is our go-to for tackling large cuts of meat; its ample size can even accommodate both a roast and side dish. Measure your oven before shopping to ensure a large, tall pan will fit, and make sure the pan has a V-rack.
Stockpot
Pick an all-purpose 12-quart pot that can handle a variety of tasks, from steaming lobsters to canning to making huge batches of homemade stock. We prefer a tall, narrow pot with a thick bottom to prevent scorching.
Muffin Tin
Darker pans produce darker baked goods; lighter pans produce lighter ones. We gravitate to gold-colored muffin tins (and many other pans) for browning that’s right in the middle.
Round Cake Pans (9-Inch)
To bake perfect cake layers, look for light-colored pans at least 2 inches tall. Eight-inch pans are also popular.
Baking Pans
We use an 8-inch square baking pan in this book for brownies and bars. A 13 by 9-inch pan is also quite useful.
Loaf Pan
Size matters with loaf pans. We use an 8½ by 4½-inch pan. If yours is 9 by 5 inches, you’ll need to adjust the baking time as the recipe indicates.
Bundt Pan
This decorative pan produces cakes that require little adornment. Make sure it’s heavy and nonstick.
Springform Pan (9-Inch)
A springform pan’s sides release, allowing you to unmold delicate cakes without having to invert them.
Pie Plate
We don’t get into pies in this book but do use pie plates in other ways, such as dredging food in bread crumbs and pressing tortillas.
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STAPLE INGREDIENTS YOU WILL COUNT ON
Your pantry is an ever-evolving collection of ingredients that reflects the kinds of food you enjoy cooking and eating. There are no hard-and-fast requirements, but this list presents many of the ingredients we most often call for in our recipes and which we think make the basis for a strong, adaptable home pantry. There are bound to be plenty of other foods that you consider must-haves, but you won’t get very far into most recipes without at least a few of these staples.
Butter
We like unsalted butter for cooking and baking, but salted butter is great for spreading on toast or homemade Buttermilk Drop Biscuits.
Cheese
The type(s) depend on your taste, but we recommend at least having Parmesan, which is a common ingredient and also good as a topping. Buy the real thing and grate it yourself. Feta and cheddar are also versatile staples.
Eggs
It’s hard to overstate how many things you can do with eggs. They are one of the most versatile and valuable items in your pantry. We always call for large eggs in our recipes.
Milk
Low-fat milk is the most versatile. We often turn to whole milk and buttermilk when baking.
Yogurt
For eating plain and for recipes, we prefer whole-milk yogurt. We’re also big fans of Greek yogurt, which has a smooth, thick, decadent texture.
Bacon
From brunch to vegetable sides, bacon livens up pretty much any dish. Good bacon has balanced meaty, smoky, salty, and sweet flavors. We prefer cured, dry-smoked versions.
Lemons and Limes
A squeeze of citrus can be just the thing to brighten up a dish. Keep lemons and limes in the refrigerator until you need them.
Dried Fruit
Almost any fruit can be dried; the drying process concentrates flavor and sugar. Try dried fruit in salads, granola, or baked goods, or on cheese plates.
Garlic
Everyday garlic is the base of a ridiculous number of recipes, in cuisines from Asian to Italian to down-home barbecue. Don’t get caught without it.
Onions
Yellow onions are our first choice for cooking for their rich flavor. Red onions are great grilled or raw in salad or salsa (sweet onions are also best raw). White onions are similar to yellow onions but lack their complexity.
Shallots
With a complex, subtly sweet flavor, shallots are ideal in sauces, where they melt into the texture, and in vinaigrettes, where they add gentle heat.
Ginger
Fresh ginger has a bite and pungency that you just can’t get from powdered ginger. It also makes up part of the flavor base for many Asian recipes.
Olives
As a pantry staple, we like jarred brine-cured black and green olives. For the best texture, buy unpitted olives and pit them yourself.
Potatoes
These fall into three categories (baking, boiling, and all-purpose) based on their starch levels/textures. Make sure you know which you have, since you can’t always use any type and expect great results (see “Choosing the Right Potato”).
Chiles
Dried chiles, chile flakes, and canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce are all great shelf-stable standbys for when you need to turn up the heat a little.
secret ingredients: take your cooking to the next level
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Good old basics are great, but sometimes you need a little something special to jazz up a dish. The ingredients in this list might seem a little unorthodox as pantry staples, but folks in the test kitchen swear by their ability to improve pretty much any food you add them to.
Harissa
A dollop of this bright, spicy North African paste can enliven vegetables, eggs, lamb, and soups. The backbone of harissa—chiles—can vary greatly, as can the heat level, so we prefer to make our own (see this page).
Tahini
This paste made from ground sesame seeds is most common in Middle Eastern dishes, but its nutty, buttery profile is a welcome addition in salads and grain dishes and on all types of meat and fish. We also love whole sesame seeds as a garnish.
Dukkah
This Egyptian condiment is a blend of nuts, seeds, and spices that adds texture and depth of flavor to dips, salads, and side dishes. (To make your own, see this page.) Sprinkle it over something as simple as olive oil for dipping bread or yogurt for a leveled-up snack.
Chinese Black Vinegar
This type of vinegar is aged to develop its complex flavor, which contributes earthy notes with hints of warm spice to any dish it’s added to. We like it in dipping sauces or simple, high-impact salads like our Smashed Cucumber Salad.
Miso
Commonly found in Asian cuisines (most notably Japanese), this incredibly versatile ingredient is a fermented paste of soybeans and rice, barley, or rye. It is salty and ranges in strength and color. Lighter misos are typically used in more delicate dishes like soups and salads while darker misos are best in heavier recipes.
Gochujang
Gochujang is a Korean chile bean paste that has a smooth consistency and a rich, spicy flavor. In addition to being made into a sauce for bibimbap (see Korean Chile Sauce), it can be added to salads, stews, soups, and marinades.
Fish Sauce
This salty liquid is made from fermented fish and is used as an ingredient and a condiment in Southeast Asian cuisines. In small amounts, it adds a well-rounded, salty flavor to sauces, soups, and marinades.
Pomegranate Molasses
Made by reducing pomegranate juice down to a syrup, pomegranate molasses has a unique, sweet-sour flavor. Use it to add complex tanginess to grain salads, glazed meats, and more.
Smoked Paprika
A Spanish favorite, smoked paprika is produced by drying peppers (either sweet or hot) over smoldering oak embers. Since smoked paprika has a deep, musky flavor all its own, it is best used to season grilled meats or to add a smoky aroma to boldly flavored dishes (even if they’ve never been near an open flame).
Dried Porcini Mushrooms
We often turn to dried porcini to add potent savory flavor to dishes. Because the mushrooms are dried, their flavor is concentrated and they are conveniently shelf-stable. You can grind the porcini into a fine powder using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and then sprinkle this savory magic dust on pretty much anything you can think of to give it a meaty boost.
Canned Tomatoes
Since canned tomatoes are processed at the height of freshness, they deliver more flavor than off-season fresh tomatoes. We rely on them in a variety of contexts. Canned whole tomatoes, diced tomatoes, crushed tomatoes, pureed tomatoes, and tomato paste all have their place; see this page for more information.
Frozen Vegetables
Many kinds of frozen vegetables make solid stand-ins for fresh. Frozen peas can even be sweeter than fresh ones, since they are frozen at the very peak of ripeness. For more information, see “When Frozen Vegetables Are the Best Choice”.
Oil
Vegetable oil (we prefer canola) is a workhorse because of its neutral taste. Extra-virgin olive oil is great for cooking, as a condiment, or in a vinaigrette. Peanut oil works well for frying. Many other cooking and finishing oils are available, depending on your tastes and needs.
Vinegar
The types you should keep in your cupboard depend on what you like to use. We recommend having at least three: white wine vinegar, red wine vinegar, and balsamic vinegar.
Broth
In the test kitchen we rarely go a day without using chicken broth, and not just in soup. We also recommend keeping vegetable broth and beef broth on hand. Homemade is great (see our recipes starting on this page), but store-bought works perfectly well in most applications.
Beans
When beans are the star of a dish, we prefer the superior flavor and texture of dried beans, but nine times out of ten, we rely on the convenience of canned beans. Our staples are black beans, cannellini beans, pinto beans, red kidney beans, and chickpeas.
Hot Sauce
Even cooks who don’t crave spicy foods should keep a bottle of hot sauce on hand to give recipes a little kick. Find a brand that you enjoy. We like one with a little sugar in it to balance the heat with sweetness (see this page for more information).
Ketchup
We prefer ketchups made with sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup; they have a cleaner, purer sweetness and fewer off-flavors.
Mayonnaise
A good supermarket mayonnaise can rival homemade and certainly keeps for much longer. The best-tasting brands have the fewest ingredients.
Mustard
Mild yellow mustard is the most popular in American cupboards, but we use Dijon more frequently in recipes. You may also want spicy brown, whole-grain, or honey mustard.
Soy Sauce
This dark, salty fermented liquid is a common ingredient and condiment in Asian cuisines that enhances umami flavor and contributes complexity.
Tuna
For a basic everyday canned tuna, look for wild albacore packed in water. If you like a fancier option (that actually tastes like fish), try fillets packed in olive oil.
Anchovies
Even if you’re not the type to eat these tiny fish right out of the tin, we recommend keeping some on hand. We use anchovies in a surprising number of recipes to build a strong umami (but not superfishy) base.
Panko Bread Crumbs
We prefer homemade bread crumbs, but for a convenient store-bought option, Japanese-style panko bread crumbs have superior crunch.
Pasta
There are many different shapes and sizes of dried pasta. We recommend stocking a few favorites for quick, no-fuss dinners. Dried Asian noodles also make a great pantry standby.
Rice and Grains
White rice is a classic staple but we also love nutty whole-grain brown rice. We also suggest you stock at least one other grain. We’re partial to quinoa because it’s quick-cooking, but there’s a world of options.
Nuts
Keep a couple of your favorite nuts on hand for baking, granola, topping salads, and snacking. Store them in the freezer to prevent rancidity.
Peanut Butter
Not just for sandwiches, peanut butter is useful in baking and in sauces. Texture matters most here, so we prefer creamy traditional peanut butter to grittier “natural” versions.
Flour
There are many types of flour, and each has its place and uses. As its name suggests, all-purpose flour is the most versatile. We also call for whole-wheat flour, bread flour, and cake flour in certain recipes.
Cornmeal
For a basic baking cornmeal, look for fine-ground whole-grain yellow cornmeal. We recommend stone ground over commercially processed.
Baking Soda
This leavener is used to provide lift to baked goods that also contain an acidic ingredient (such as sour cream, buttermilk, or brown sugar).
Baking Powder
Baking powder provides leavening for baked goods that have no natural acidity in the batter (or to add extra lift alongside baking soda).
Yeast
We prefer instant (aka rapid-rise) yeast, which is the easiest to use; it can be added directly to the dry ingredients.
Sugar
White granulated sugar, brown sugar (light and dark can pretty much be used interchangeably), and confectioners’ sugar are the most common sugars for baking and beyond.
Maple Syrup
Opt for 100 percent maple syrup rather than one blended with corn syrup (see this page for more information).
Honey
Try different honeys to see what you like. Strongly flavored varieties such as buckwheat honey are too assertive for cooking—save them for your tea.
Chocolate
Chocolate chips are probably the most convenient form, but we also like bars. We stock a dark chocolate with 60 percent cacao in addition to unsweetened baker’s chocolate.
Cocoa Powder
You will find cocoa powder in both Dutch-processed and natural versions. Dutch-processed cocoa has been treated with alkali to neutralize the powder’s acidity and mellow its astringent notes (it also darkens the color). Both types will work in most recipes, although Dutch-processed cocoa will produce baked goods with a darker color and moister texture.
Vanilla Extract
Get the real thing. Real vanilla extract has around 250 flavor compounds compared with imitation vanilla’s one, giving it a unique complexity.
Black Peppercorns
Peppercorns’ scent and flavor start to fade as soon as they’re ground, so buy whole peppercorns and grind them as you use them.
Salt
Table salt is our go-to for most applications, while kosher salt is great for seasoning meat. Flaky sea salt is best reserved for finishing dishes. Because of varying crystal sizes, do not substitute one kind for another without using the chart on this page.
herbal how-tos
We frequently use a sprinkling of minced herbs to give dishes a fresh finish, or employ whole herb leaves to brighten salads or sandwiches. Parsley, cilantro, and basil are the ones we use most often. Try growing them in small pots in your kitchen so you always have them on hand. This can also help you avoid the all-too-common tragedy of buying a bunch of herbs and having almost all of it turn slimy before you can use it. If you’re not up for gardening, proper storage is key: To get the most out of fresh herbs, gently rinse and dry them (a salad spinner works well), wrap in a damp paper towel, and place in a partially open zipper-lock bag in the crisper drawer. Basil is an exception; don’t wash it until just before you need to use it.
Buy Fresh Only
For leafy herbs (basil, parsley, chives, mint, cilantro), fresh is the best option.
Dried Is Okay
If you’re making a long-cooked recipe using heartier herbs (rosemary, oregano, sage, thyme), dried herbs can work. If you do substitute dried for fresh, you only need to use one-third as much of the dried version.
Freshness Matters for Dried Herbs, Too
Check dried herbs for freshness by crumbling a small amount between your fingers and taking a whiff. If they release a strong aroma, they’re still good to go. If the smell and the color have faded, it’s time to restock.
your spice rack starter kit
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If you’re only buying a handful of spices to start your pantry, we recommend these (in addition to salt and pepper, of course!).
Cayenne Pepper
This fiery spice made from ground dried chiles has enough heat that you’ll usually only need to use a pinch at a time.
Chili Powder
This blend of ground dried chiles, garlic powder, oregano, and cumin has not just heat but also multidimensional complexity.
Cinnamon
Ground cinnamon is a key ingredient for many baking recipes. Whole stick cinnamon can be used to infuse flavor into wine, cider, and even sauces.
Cumin
This earthy, warming spice is common in a wide variety of world cuisines.
Curry Powder
We prefer the mild formulation of this blend of spices, herbs, and seeds; it works equally well in recipes from traditional curries to baked goods.
spice smarts
» Spices start losing flavor as soon as you grind them, so buy them whole, not preground, whenever possible, and grind just before using, either with a small coffee grinder or a mortar and pestle.
» Label your herbs and spices with the purchase date and then regularly purge your pantry of jars that are more than 12 months old. Store in a cool, dark place to prolong freshness.
» Bulk spices aren’t necessarily the freshest, but they can be useful if you need just a tiny amount of a very particular spice for one recipe.
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refrigerator storage tips
Storing Meat
Storing meat on a rimmed baking sheet helps keep refrigerator shelves sanitary and allows other food items, such as fruits and vegetables, to be stored on the same shelf without risk of cross-contamination.
Storing Cheese
Wrap cheese first in parchment paper and then in aluminum foil. Store the wrapped cheese in the crisper or in an airtight plastic bag or container.
Storing Greens
To prevent bacterial growth, greens must be completely dried before being stored. Store washed and dried greens in paper towels in a zipper-lock bag left slightly open.
ANATOMY OF YOUR REFRIGERATOR
Your refrigerator is more than a box of cold air. There are actually different microenvironments inside a refrigerator and understanding how they work can help you use the various zones to your advantage and keep your meat, dairy, and produce fresh and flavorful.
COLD ZONE
Back, Top to Bottom
The area of the shelves at the back of the fridge (and the bottom of the door) are normally the coldest areas (around 33 degrees). Meat, dairy, and produce that is not prone to chilling injury (apples, cherries, grapes) should be stored in these areas. This is also the best place for prepared foods and leftovers.
MODERATE ZONE
Front, Top to Bottom
The areas at the front of the refrigerator, from the top to the bottom shelves, are generally moderate, with temperatures above 37 degrees. Put eggs, butter, and fruits and vegetables that are sensitive to chilling injury (berries, citrus, corn on the cob, melons) in this area. This also includes the top shelves on the door, which can be warmer and should therefore be reserved for items like beverages and condiments.
HUMID ZONE
Crisper Drawer
The crisper drawer provides a humid environment that helps keep produce with a high water content (artichokes, asparagus, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chiles, cucumbers, eggplant, fresh herbs, green beans, leafy greens, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, peppers, radishes, scallions, summer squash, turnips, zucchini) from shriveling and rotting. However, if the humidity is too high, water can accumulate and hasten spoilage. You can regulate the humidity by adjusting the vents; the more cold air that is let in, the less humid the environment will be. (If your crisper doesn’t have a slide control, it is always at the highest humidity level of which it is capable.)
what not to store in the fridge
Some produce is sensitive to chilling injury and should be stored on the counter.
Apricots, Bananas*, Kiwis*, Mangos, Nectarines, Papayas, Peaches, Pears*, Pineapples, Plums, Tomatoes
*Once ripe, these can be refrigerated to avoid overripening. Some discoloration may occur.
Some produce also needs to be kept away from light and heat. Store these in the pantry at cool room temperature in a basket or other ventilated container.
Garlic, Onions, Potatoes, Shallots, Sweet Potatoes, Winter Squash
Storing bread in the refrigerator may seem like a good idea, but the cold speeds up the staling process. We store bread on the counter or in a bread box; otherwise we freeze it. The same is true for most baked goods.
FOOD SAFETY IN 10 EASY STEPS
Food safety may seem like a drag, but it can be a matter of life and death—or at least, life and extreme gastrointestinal discomfort. Luckily, it’s actually pretty easy to keep your kitchen clean and safe. Most of our cleaning protocols are based on the judicious application of hot water, soap, and the occasional splash of bleach solution. Following basic sanitation practices can dramatically reduce the risk of foodborne illness for you and everyone else you’re feeding.
1 Wash Your Hands
Washing your hands is one of the best (and easiest) ways to stop the spread of foodborne pathogens that can make you sick. Wash before and during cooking, especially after touching raw meat or poultry. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recommends washing for at least 20 seconds in warm, soapy water, i.e., for at least the length of the Happy Birthday song. So get scrubbing (and singing).
2 Sanitize Your Sink
Studies have found that the kitchen sink is crawling with even more bacteria than the garbage bin. The faucet handle, which can reintroduce bacteria to your hands after you’ve washed them, is a close second. Though we’ve found that hot, soapy water is amazingly effective at eliminating bacteria, for added insurance you should clean these areas frequently with a solution of 1 tablespoon bleach per quart of water.
3 Clean Your Gear
In terms of bacteria, your sponge is right up there with your sink. A wet sponge is an ideal host for bacteria, so whenever possible, use a paper towel or dishcloth instead. If you do use a sponge, disinfect it. Microwaving and boiling are effective ways to clean a sponge but since sponges have been known to catch fire in high-powered microwaves, we prefer to boil them for 5 minutes. Cutting boards are another key location for bacteria in the kitchen. We have found that cutting boards of all materials are best cleaned by a thorough scrub with hot, soapy water.
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4 Season Safely
Though most bacteria can’t live for more than a few minutes in direct contact with salt, it can live on the edges of a box or shaker. To avoid contamination, grind pepper into a clean small bowl and then mix it with salt. You can reach into the bowl for seasoning without washing your hands every time. At the end of meal prep, discard any leftover seasoning and wash the bowl.
5 Separate Raw and Cooked Foods
Keep raw and cooked foods separate to prevent the spread of bacteria. Never place cooked food on a plate or cutting board that came into contact with raw food (meat or not), and wash any utensil (including a thermometer) that comes in contact with raw food before reusing it.
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6 Put Up Barriers
Items that come in contact with both raw and cooked food, like scales and platters, should be covered with aluminum foil or plastic wrap to create a protective barrier. Once the item has been used, the protective layer should be discarded—taking any bacteria with it. Similarly, wrapping your cutting board with plastic wrap before pounding meat and poultry on it will limit the spread of bacteria.
7 Don’t Rinse Raw Meat and Poultry
Avoid rinsing raw meat and poultry. Contrary to what some cookbooks (or your grandmother) might advise, rinsing is more likely to spread contaminants around your sink than send them down the drain. Cooking food to a safe internal temperature will kill surface bacteria more effectively than rinsing, and we’ve found no difference in flavor between rinsed and unrinsed meat.
8 Defrost in the Fridge
Always defrost in the refrigerator. On the counter, the temperature is higher and bacteria multiply rapidly. Place food on a plate or in a bowl to collect any liquid it releases. Most food will take 24 hours to thaw. (Larger items, like whole turkeys, can take far longer, about 6 hours per pound.)
9 Cool on the Counter
Don’t put hot food in the fridge right away. This will cause the temperature in the refrigerator to rise, potentially making it hospitable to the spread of bacteria. The FDA recommends cooling foods to 70 degrees within the first 2 hours after cooking, and to 40 degrees within another 4 hours. We cool food on the counter for about an hour and then put it in the fridge.
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10 Reheat Rapidly
When food is reheated, it should be brought through the danger zone (the temperature range from 40 to 140 degrees, where bacteria thrive) as rapidly as possible—don’t let it come slowly to a simmer. Bring leftover sauces, soups, and gravies to a boil and make sure casseroles reach at least 165 degrees.
WHEN IS FOOD DONE?
There’s nothing like a spectacular kitchen failure featuring leathery meat, disintegrated vegetables, or, worse yet, billowing smoke to drive home the importance of timing in cooking. Don’t just glance at the clock or assume your internal timekeeping will be reliable enough; always set a timer. You can get a special timer specifically designed for use in the kitchen, but you can also use a microwave timer, oven timer, or the timer on your phone; just make sure you have some way of keeping time. All that being said, don’t rely solely on timing to guide your cooking—other types of cues are also incredibly important. And if a recipe presents a range of time for a step, always start checking for doneness at the early end of the range. Trust your senses and your common sense alongside your reading of the recipe.
USE YOUR EYES
Food changes color and appearance as it cooks; the difference between a crisp-tender, bright green piece of broccoli and a dull gray-green piece of overcooked broccoli is easy to see. And if you want good flavor on your chicken, don’t take it out of the pan until it has good golden-brown color all over it.
USE YOUR NOSE
Many foods have a distinct aroma when they’re done, such as toasted nuts, baked goods, or caramelized onions. And unless you’re making a recipe that’s purposefully blackened or charred, if you can smell something burning, you should check on it, even if the timer says you still have 20 minutes left.
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Slip a paring knife into food to “feel” for doneness; a vegetable is tender when it meets with little resistance.
USE A PARING KNIFE
The texture of most foods changes during cooking. In order to gauge these changes, use a sharp paring knife to test foods for doneness cues; do the potatoes yield easily or does the blade meet resistance? When you nick a piece of fish or thin cut of meat, is it still raw inside?
USE A THERMOMETER—ESPECIALLY FOR MEAT
When it comes to final doneness, numbers don’t lie; the best and most foolproof way to determine when food is done is to use a thermometer, not only for proteins but also bread and custardy desserts. A good one is vital for ensuring success in the kitchen. See this page for our brand recommendations.
USE DOWNTIME
Don’t forget about the magic of carryover cooking and the importance of resting meat (see this page for much more information). Finished food often needs to rest after cooking in order for temperatures to equalize, juices to redistribute, and ingredients to cool enough that you won’t burn your mouth. Your food isn’t really done until this step is!
CHECKING DONENESS
Always take the temperature of the area that will finish cooking last, which is the thickest part or, in some cases, the center. Bones conduct heat, so make sure the thermometer doesn’t touch them. We recommend taking more than one reading to confirm doneness. For specific doneness temperatures, see the chart below.
Steaks, Chops, and Small Roasts
Use tongs to hold the meat, then insert the thermometer sideways into the center. You can also use this technique for pork tenderloin or rack of lamb; just lift the meat with a pair of tongs and insert the thermometer into the end.
Burgers
Leave the burger in the pan or on the grill (so it won’t fall apart), slide the tip of the thermometer into the burger at the top edge, and push it toward the center, making sure to avoid hitting the pan (or grill) with the probe.
Poultry
Because breast meat cooks faster than thigh meat, you must take the temperature of both. Try to avoid hitting bones, cavities, or the surface of the pan, as this will result in an inaccurate reading. When temping a whole bird, use the following methods:
For Thigh Meat Insert the thermometer at an angle into the area between the drumstick and the breast, taking care not to hit the bone. It should register 175 degrees.
For Breast Meat Insert the thermometer from the neck end into a breast, holding the thermometer parallel to the bird. It should register 160 degrees.
If cooking chicken or turkey pieces, use the same techniques described above, while lifting the piece with tongs and inserting the thermometer sideways into the thickest part of the meat, taking care to avoid bones.
MEAT DONENESS TEMPERATURES
Since the temperature of meat will continue to rise as it rests, it should be taken off the heat just before it reaches the desired temperature. Note that this does not apply to poultry, which should be fully cooked before it is removed from the heat. For more information, see this page.
TYPE OF MEAT
COOK UNTIL IT REGISTERS
Beef, Veal, Lamb
Rare
115˚ to 120˚ (120˚ to 125˚ after resting)
Medium-Rare
120˚ to 125˚ (125˚ to 130˚ after resting)
Medium
130˚ to 135˚ (135˚ to 140˚ after resting)
Medium-Well
140˚ to 145˚ (145˚ to 150˚ after resting)
Well-Done
150˚ to 155˚ (155˚ to 160˚ after resting)
Pork
Chops and Tenderloin
145˚ (150˚ after resting)
Loin Roasts
140˚ (145˚ after resting)
Chicken and Turkey
White Meat
160˚
Dark Meat
175˚
checking your thermometer’s accuracy
Even our favorite instant-read digital thermometer is not infallible—sometimes it needs to be recalibrated. Check that your thermometer takes accurate readings when you first buy it and then again periodically over time. Here’s how.
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Put a mixture of ice and cold tap water in a glass or bowl; allow this mixture to sit for several minutes to let the temperature stabilize. Put the probe in the slush, being careful not to touch the sides or bottom of the glass or bowl. On a digital thermometer, press the “calibrate” button to 32 degrees; on a dial-face thermometer, turn the dial to 32 degrees (the method differs from model to model; you may need pliers to turn a small knob on the back).
KNIFE SCHOOL 101
HOLDING YOUR KNIFE
We get it—this sounds too basic to even discuss. You just hold it how you hold it, right? You don’t have to think about it. But what you don’t think about can still hurt you. Much as how a Major League Baseball star holds a bat, how you hold a knife makes a difference in terms of control and force. And don’t forget about the other hand—the one that holds the food securely in place while you cut. How you hold the food steady makes a difference in terms of fingertip safety.
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Control Grip
For more control, choke up on the handle and actually grip the blade of the knife between your thumb and forefinger. This will be the most common grip you use for ingredient prep.
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Force Grip
Holding the knife on the handle allows you to use more force and is helpful when cutting through hard foods or bone. Most ingredients don’t require that much force, however.
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Protect Your Fingertips
Use the “bear claw” grip to hold food in place and minimize danger. Tuck your fingertips in, away from the knife, and rest your knuckles against the blade. During the upward motion of slicing, reposition your guiding hand for the next cut.
MOVING YOUR KNIFE
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For Small Items, Keep the Tip Down
To cut small items, push the blade forward and down, using its curve to make smooth strokes. With each cut, move the knife (not the food). The blade should touch the board at all times when cutting small food.
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For Large Items, Lift Blade Up
To cut large items, such as an eggplant, lift the entire blade off the board to help make smooth strokes.
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For Tough Items, Use the Heel
To cut through tough foods, use one hand to grip the handle and place your flat palm on top of the blade. Cut straight down, pushing the blade gently. Make sure your hand and the knife are both dry to prevent slippage.
KEEPING KNIVES SHARP
A sharp knife is a fast knife, and a dull knife is an accident waiting to happen. Dull knives are dangerous because they require more force to do the job and so there is a higher chance of the knife slipping and missing the mark. Even the best knives will dull over time with regular use.
A honing steel (also called a sharpening steel, though that’s a misnomer), the metal rod sold with most knife sets, doesn’t really sharpen knives. Instead, it trues the edge of a slightly dulled blade. Over time, the sharp cutting edge of a knife blade can turn to the side, making the blade seem dull. A knife that feels dull may need only a few light strokes across a steel to correct its edge and restore sharpness without the need to run it through a sharpener. The honing process is also faster than sharpening a knife (about 1 minute to hone versus 5 minutes to sharpen) and doesn’t remove metal from the blade.
Here’s How to Use a Honing Steel
1. Place the tip of the honing steel on the counter and place the heel of the blade against the other end of the steel, pointing the knife tip slightly upward. Hold the blade at a 15-degree angle to the steel.
2. Maintaining light, consistent pressure and a 15-degree angle between the knife blade and steel, slide the blade down the length of the steel in a sweeping motion, pulling the knife toward your body so that the entire edge of the blade makes contact.
3. Repeat this motion on the other side of the blade. Four or five strokes on each side of the blade (a total of eight to ten alternating passes) should realign the edge.
THE PAPER TEST
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To determine if your knife is sharp, put it to the paper test: Holding a sheet of paper (basic printer/copy paper is best) firmly at the top with one hand, draw the blade down through the paper, heel to tip, with the other hand. The knife should glide through the paper and require only minimal pushing. If it snags, try realigning the blade’s edge using a honing steel and then repeat the test. If the knife still doesn’t cut the paper cleanly, use your sharpener.
cut out for greatness
Knives are some of the most basic and essential tools you’ll use in the kitchen. Here are the basics on our three favorite types.
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Chef’s Knife
From chopping onions to mincing herbs to butchering a chicken, this knife will handle 90 percent of your ingredient prep. If you buy only one knife, make it a reliable chef’s knife.
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Paring Knife
A paring knife is key for tasks that require more dexterity than a chef’s knife can provide: peeling and coring apples, deveining shrimp, cutting citrus segments, and more.
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Serrated Knife
The pointed serrations of a good serrated knife glide through crusty breads, bagels, and the tough skins of tomatoes to produce neat slices.
AT THE CUTTING BOARD
The cutting board is the center of a cook’s work. If your board is in order, your cooking is off to a good start.
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Set Up Your Board
First, make sure the board isn’t going to slide around the counter as you work. Some boards have nonslip grips on the bottom or sides. If yours doesn’t, place either a square of damp paper towel or small pieces of shelf liner between the counter and the cutting board to firmly anchor it before you do anything else.
A Place for Everything
Organizing your prepared ingredients into little bowls isn’t just for TV chefs—it’s actually really useful. This setup makes it easy to grab an ingredient and add it to a hot pan at just the right moment, and it keeps the prepped ingredients from crowding your cutting board.
Keep It Clean
As you’re prepping your ingredients, don’t just push the trimmings and skins to the side; this reduces the usable area on your board, and those trimmings have a way of getting back into the mix. Instead, place a small bowl or plastic grocery bag at the side of your board for everything that’s destined for the trash or compost.
KNOW YOUR CUTS
The language of cutting can seem mystifying—chopping, dicing, mincing. What exactly is the difference? It may not seem like it would matter that much, but because cooking times are calibrated for ingredients cut to a particular size, food that’s cut incorrectly won’t cook right. Here are some explanations for a few common and sometimes confusing prep terms that you should know.
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“chopped fine” / “chopped” / “chopped coarse”
Chopping is the most general word for cutting food into small pieces, but the size designations have pretty specific meanings. “Chopped fine” corresponds to food cut into ⅛- to ¼-inch pieces, “chopped” to ¼- to ½-inch pieces, and “chopped coarse” to ½- to ¾-inch pieces.
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“diced”
We don’t call for dicing (“chopped” works fine for us) but if you see the term, it refers to food cut into uniform cubes, which can be large or small. Since most ingredients don’t have right angles, not every piece will be a perfect cube; just do your best.
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“minced”
Minced ingredients are cut into ⅛-inch pieces or smaller; this is likely the smallest cut most recipes will call for. Pungent ingredients such as garlic and herbs are often minced to make them easier to evenly distribute throughout a dish.
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“sliced”
In general, slicing calls for cutting food into pieces with two flat edges (the thickness will depend on the recipe). Orb-shaped foods like onions are difficult to slice whole because they do not sit on a flat side. Unless whole sliced onion rings are the goal, halve an onion pole to pole, peel it, sit it on a cut side, and then slice.
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“matchsticks”
Also known as “julienne,” this refers to cutting food into matchstick-size pieces, ¼ inch thick (or less) and 2 inches long, unless otherwise specified. Start by cutting the ingredient into 2-inch-long segments, then cut each segment into ¼-inch-thick planks. Working with a few planks at a time, stack the planks and cut them into ¼-inch-thick matchsticks.
BASIC VEGETABLE PREP
Whether you are simply steaming a vegetable or using it as one component of a more involved recipe, usually some basic vegetable prep is required. After years of peeling, seeding, and chopping vegetables in the test kitchen, we’ve found the following methods are the easiest and most efficient ways to prepare a number of vegetables for myriad uses.
ASPARAGUS: TRIMMING
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1. Remove one stalk of asparagus from bunch and bend it at thicker end until it snaps.
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2. With broken asparagus as guide, trim tough ends from remaining asparagus bunch, using chef’s knife.
AVOCADOS: CUTTING UP
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1. After slicing avocado in half around pit with chef’s knife, lodge edge of knife blade into pit and twist to remove.
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2. Use dish towel to hold avocado steady. Make ½-inch crosshatch incisions in flesh of each avocado half with knife, cutting down to, but not through, skin.
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3. Insert soupspoon between skin and flesh and gently scoop out avocado cubes.
BELL PEPPERS: PREPARING
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1. Slice off top and bottom of pepper and remove seeds and stem.
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2. Slice down through side of pepper.
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3. Lay pepper flat, trim away remaining ribs and seeds, then cut into pieces or strips as desired.
BOK CHOY: PREPARING
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1. Trim bottom 1 inch from head of bok choy. Wash and pat leaves and stalks dry. Cut leafy green portion away from either side of white stalk.
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2. Cut each white stalk in half lengthwise, then crosswise into thin strips.
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3. Stack leafy greens and slice crosswise into thin strips. Keep sliced stalks and leaves separate.
BROCCOLI: CUTTING UP
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1. Place head of broccoli upside down on cutting board and use chef’s knife to trim off florets very close to heads. Cut florets into 1-inch pieces.
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2. After cutting away tough outer peel of stalk, square off stalk, then slice into ¼-inch-thick pieces.
CABBAGE: SHREDDING
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1. Cut cabbage into quarters, then trim and discard hard core.
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2. Separate cabbage into small stacks of leaves that flatten when pressed.
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3. Use chef’s knife to cut each stack of leaves into thin shreds (you can also use slicing disk of food processor to do this).
CARROTS: CUTTING ON BIAS AND INTO MATCHSTICKS
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1. Slice carrot on bias into 2-inch-long oval-shaped pieces.
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2. For matchsticks, lay ovals flat on cutting board, then slice into 2-inch-long matchsticks, about ¼ inch thick.
CAULIFLOWER: CUTTING UP
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1. Pull off any leaves, then cut out core of cauliflower using paring knife.
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2. Separate florets from inner stem using tip of paring knife.
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3. Cut larger florets into smaller pieces by slicing through stem.
CHILES: STEMMING AND SEEDING
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1. Using sharp knife, trim and discard stem end. Slice chile in half lengthwise.
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2. Use spoon to scrape out seeds and ribs (reserve if desired). Prepare seeded chile as directed.
CORN: STRIPPING
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After removing husk and silk, stand ear upright in large bowl and use paring knife to slice kernels off of cob.
CUCUMBERS AND ZUCCHINI: SEEDING
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Halve vegetable lengthwise. Run spoon inside each half to scoop out seeds.
FENNEL: PREPARING
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1. Cut off stems and fronds. Trim thin slice from base. Remove any tough or blemished outer layers from bulb.
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2. Cut bulb in half through base, then use paring knife to remove core.
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3. Slice each half into thin strips, cutting from base to stem end.
GARLIC: MINCING
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1. Trim off root end, then crush clove between side of knife and cutting board to loosen and remove skin.
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2. Resting fingers on top of knife blade, use rocking motion to mince garlic, pivoting knife as you work.
MINCING TO A PASTE
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Sprinkle minced garlic with salt, then scrape blade of knife back and forth over garlic until it forms sticky paste.
GINGER: PREPARING
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1. To peel ginger, hold it firmly against cutting board and use edge of dinner spoon to scrape away skin.
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2A. To grate ginger, peel small section then grate peeled portion with rasp-style grater.
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2B. To mince ginger, slice peeled ginger into thin rounds, cut rounds into thin strips, and mince strips.
GREEN BEANS: TRIMMING
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Line beans up on cutting board and trim ends with one slice.
GREENS: WASHING
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Fill salad spinner with cool water, add cut greens, swish them around. Let grit settle to bottom, then lift greens out and drain water. Repeat until greens no longer release dirt.
HEARTY GREENS (SWISS CHARD, KALE, COLLARD GREENS): PREPARING
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1. Cut away leafy portion from stalk or stem using chef’s knife.
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2. Stack several leaves and either slice crosswise or chop into pieces according to recipe.
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3. If using chard stems, cut into pieces as directed. (Discard collard and kale stems.)
HERBS: PREPARING
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A. To remove leaves, hold sprig by top of stem then run thumb and forefinger down stem to release leaves. Tender tips can be left intact and chopped along with leaves.
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B. To shred (or chiffonade) leaves, stack several clean leaves on top of one another. Roll them up, then slice roll crosswise into shreds.
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C. To mince fresh herbs, place one hand on handle of chef’s knife and rest fingers of your other hand lightly on top of knife blade. Use rocking motion to mince, pivoting knife as you work.
LEEKS: PREPARING
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1. Trim and discard root and dark green leaves.
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2. Cut trimmed leek in half lengthwise, then slice crosswise.
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3. Rinse cut leeks thoroughly using salad spinner or bowl of water.
MUSHROOMS: PREPARING
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1. Rinse mushrooms just before cooking. Or, if mushrooms will be eaten raw, simply brush dirt away with soft pastry brush or cloth.
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2. Tender white button and cremini stems can simply be trimmed. Tough, woody shiitake and portobello stems should be removed.
OLIVES: PITTING
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Place olive on work surface and hold flat edge of knife over olive. Press blade firmly with your hand to loosen olive meat from pit.
ONIONS: CHOPPING
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1. Halve onion through root end, then peel and trim top. Make several horizontal cuts from one end of onion to other but don’t cut through root end.
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2. Make several vertical cuts. Be sure to cut up to but not through root end.
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3. Rotate onion so root end is in back; slice onion thinly across previous cuts. As you slice, onion will fall apart into chopped pieces.
POTATOES: CUTTING
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1. Cut thin sliver from one side of potato to create stable base. Set on cut side and slice potato crosswise into even planks.
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2. Stack several planks and cut crosswise, then rotate 90 degrees and cut crosswise again to create even pieces as directed in recipe.
SNOW PEAS: TRIMMING
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Use paring knife and thumb to snip off tip of pod and pull along flat side to remove string at same time.
SHALLOTS: MINCING
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1. Make closely spaced horizontal cuts through peeled shallot, leaving root end intact.
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2. Next, make several vertical cuts through shallot.
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3. Finally, thinly slice shallot crosswise, creating fine mince.
TOMATOES: CORING AND DICING
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1. Remove core of tomato using paring knife.
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2. Slice tomato crosswise with sharp chef’s knife or serrated knife.
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3. Stack several slices of tomato, then slice into pieces as desired.
WINTER SQUASH (BUTTERNUT SQUASH): CUTTING UP
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1. After peeling squash, use chef’s knife to trim off top and bottom and then cut squash in half where narrow neck and wide curved bottom meet.
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2. Cut strip from neck to create stable base. Set neck on base and cut into planks, then into pieces. (Or halve neck lengthwise and slice each into half moons.)
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3. Cut base in half lengthwise, and scoop out and discard seeds and fibers. Slice each base half into even lengths and then into pieces according to recipe.
BASIC FRUIT PREP
Whether you are cutting up fruit for a simple fruit salad or making a more involved recipe with a lot of prep work, it helps to know the most efficient way to peel, pit, core, stem, juice, or zest the fruit involved. After years of making fruit desserts in the test kitchen, we’ve found the following methods to be the easiest.
APPLE: CORING
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1A. If you don’t have a corer, cut sides of apple squarely away from core. Cut each piece of apple into slices according to recipe.
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1B. Or, for less waste, cut apple in half. Make diagonal slices with paring knife partway into apple half on either side of core and remove it.
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2. Place each piece on its flat side. Cut straight down to make slices or at an angle toward center for wedges.
BERRIES: WASHING
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1. Place berries in colander and rinse them gently under running water.
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2. To dry, line salad spinner with layers of paper towels and carefully disperse berries. Spin gently until dry, about 20 seconds.
CHERRIES: PITTING
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Using cherry pitter, punch stone from flesh of cherry.
CITRUS: SECTIONING
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1. Cut thin slice from top and bottom of fruit.
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2. Use sharp knife to slice off rind, including white pith, following contours of the fruit.
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3. Insert blade of paring knife between membrane and section and slice to center of fruit. Turn blade outward, then slice along membrane on other side until section falls out.
CITRUS: ZESTING
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Rub fruit against holes of rasp-style grater, grating over same area of fruit only once or twice to avoid grating bitter white pith beneath skin.
CITRUS: JUICING
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1. Roll fruit vigorously on hard surface to tear juice sacs for maximum extraction of juice.
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2. Slice fruit in half, then use reamer or citrus juicer to extract juice.
KIWI: PEELING
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1. Trim ends of kiwi, then insert small spoon between skin and flesh. Gently slide spoon around fruit, separating flesh from skin.
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2. Pull loosened skin away from flesh, then chop or slice according to recipe.
MANGO: CUTTING UP
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1. Cut thin slice from one end of mango so it sits flat on counter. Resting mango on trimmed end, cut off skin in thin strips from top to bottom.
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2. Cut down along each side of flat pit to remove flesh.
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3. Trim around pit to remove any remaining flesh. Chop or slice according to recipe.
PEACH (FREESTONE): HALVING AND PITTING
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1. Cut peach in half, pole to pole around pit, using crease in peach skin as guide.
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2. Grasp both halves of fruit and twist apart. Remove pit.
PEAR: CORING
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1. Use melon baller to cut around central core of halved pear with circular motion and remove core.
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2. Draw melon baller from central core to top of pear, removing interior stem. Then remove blossom end.
PINEAPPLE: CUTTING UP
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1. Trim off bottom and top of pineapple so it sits flat on counter.
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2. Rest pineapple on trimmed bottom and cut off skin in thin strips from top to bottom.
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3. Quarter pineapple lengthwise, then cut tough core from each quarter. Slice pineapple according to recipe.
RHUBARB: PEELING
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1. Trim both ends of stalk. Partially slice thin disk from bottom end, being careful not to cut through stalk entirely. Pull partially attached disk away from stalk to remove outer peel.
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2. Make second cut partway through bottom of stalk in reverse direction. Pull back peel on other side and discard. Slice or chop according to recipe.
STRAWBERRIES: HULLING
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A. Use serrated tip of grapefruit spoon to cut around leafy stem and remove white core and stem.
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B. Alternately, push plastic straw into bottom of berry and up through leafy steam end to remove core as well as leafy top.
HOW TO MEASURE
Accurate measuring is often the difference between success and failure in the kitchen. In an ideal world, everyone would measure all ingredients by weight at all times, but we are realists. Even though weight is a more accurate way to measure than volume, we know that most cooks rely on measuring cups and spoons, not scales, so here are some ways to increase your accuracy when using volume measures. Our biggest piece of advice: Don’t use liquid and dry measuring cups interchangeably—if you do, your ingredient amounts may be significantly off.
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MEASURING DRY INGREDIENTS
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For absolute accuracy, always weigh flour and sugar when baking. Otherwise, for dry ingredients we recommend the “dip and sweep” method, which reliably yields a 5-ounce cup of unbleached all-purpose flour and a 7-ounce cup of granulated sugar. Dip the measuring cup into the container and scoop up the ingredient in a heaping mound. Use a straight edge, like the back of a knife, to sweep the excess back into the container. We also use dip and sweep with measuring spoons when meting out small amounts of dry ingredients like baking powder.
MEASURING BROWN SUGAR
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Brown sugar is clumpy, so it must be packed into a measuring cup to get an accurate reading. To do this, use your fingers or the bottom of a smaller cup to press the sugar into the measuring cup.
MEASURING LIQUID INGREDIENTS
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For liquid ingredients, use a liquid measuring cup set on the counter and lean down to read the measurement at eye level. Make sure the meniscus—the bottom of the curved surface line of the liquid—aligns with the measurement you’re aiming for. When emptying the cup, use a rubber spatula to scrape it clean.
MEASURING IN-BETWEEN INGREDIENTS
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For sticky and/or semisolid ingredients such as mayonnaise, peanut butter, sour cream, and honey, we prefer an adjustable measuring cup. An adjustable measuring cup has a clear cylinder with volume markings and a plunger insert. You withdraw the plunger to the desired measurement and then fill the cylinder, level it off, and plunge to empty it. This design makes it easy to push out every last bit of the ingredient. If you don’t own an adjustable measuring cup, a dry measuring cup is the next most consistent tool.
when to measure
In addition to how you measure, it matters when you measure. For instance, “1 cup walnuts, chopped” is not the same as “1 cup chopped walnuts.” In the first example, the cook should measure out the whole walnuts and then chop them. In the second example, the cook should chop first, and then measure out a cup of the already-chopped walnuts. One cup of unchopped walnuts weighs 4 ounces, while one cup of chopped walnuts weighs 4.8 ounces—that’s 20 percent more nuts. Apply this principle to other ingredients (such as “sifted flour” versus “flour, sifted”) and you can see how this makes a significant difference in the final outcome of a recipe.
whether to weigh
A digital scale is critical for baking recipes, where measuring dry ingredients by weight is the only way to guarantee accuracy. Our testing has found that there can be up to a 20 percent variance in the weight between cups of flour measured by different cooks using a dry measuring cup—a range that can mean the difference between a cake that’s squat and dense and one that’s fluffy and tender. Scales have many applications in cooking, too. Using one to portion burgers, for example, means no more guessing if the patties are the same size and will thus cook at the same rate. Weighing ingredients may sound like a chore but is actually easier than measuring by volume, especially with a hyperprecise digital scale.
WAYS TO COOK: IN LIQUID
Cooking is simply the process of transferring heat to food. At a basic level, the process is the same whether food is being cooked over an open fire à la caveman or via one of our slightly more sophisticated modern equivalents. All of the cooking we do uses elemental mediums—liquid, fat, air, and fire—for their heat energy. And while there are multiple techniques that rely on each energy source, they tend to behave in similar ways. So it can be helpful to think of the cooking within these groups, as we do here. We’ll start with cooking in liquid, which is one of the most common techniques we use.
Cooking food in liquid or steam offers even heat (since the food is fully enveloped) and plenty of moisture. But there’s an exchange: As water hydrates food, food gives particles and flavors back to water. We use this to our advantage when simmering a broth or drawing meat’s gelatin into a rich braise. While boiling cooks food rapidly, at lower temperatures water can be the gentlest of cooking methods.
Boil
To cook foods in boiling liquid in a pot set on a hot burner.
Water boils at 212 degrees at sea level. It’s an efficient heat conductor; vigorously bubbling water can cook food very quickly, making it ideal for pasta and sturdy foods like potatoes, and for flash-cooking vegetables as when blanching. The jostling also helps to prevent sticking.
Blanch
To quickly immerse food in boiling water, then transfer to an ice bath.
We like to blanch green vegetables—such as green beans, broccoli rabe, and snap peas—to help set their color and remove any bitterness. Blanching also helps loosen the skins of nuts and soft fruits. The ice bath quickly stops the cooking in order to get just the right crisp-tender results.
Simmer
To cook foods in liquid that is just below the boiling point.
Simmering generally happens between 180 and 205 degrees. At these temperatures, meat become tender without drying out and flavors blend. Simmering is invaluable for broths, soups, and sauces. To get a good simmer, we usually bring liquid to a boil and then reduce the heat.
Steam
To cook foods suspended over simmering liquid in a covered pot.
Steaming is an especially gentle cooking method. Unlike other moist-heat cooking methods, steaming does not wash away flavor. It is an excellent choice for vegetables, fish, and delicate foods like dumplings.
Poach
To cook foods in liquid that is well below boiling point in a covered pot.
Poaching is related to simmering: The temperature of the liquid is lower (no bubbles are breaking the surface) and the pot is generally covered to create a constant, gentle cooking environment. Poaching is best used for chicken, delicate fish, and fruits.
Braise
To cook foods by first sautéing them and then adding liquid, covering the pan, and simmering.
Braising is most often used for tough cuts of meat that need to cook gently until tender. Braising liquid is typically wine or stock infused with aromatics. Braising is usually a low-and-slow approach, but depending on the ingredients involved, it doesn’t have to be an all-day affair.
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When a liquid boils, large bubbles energetically break the surface at a rapid and constant pace. It’s simmering when small bubbles gently break the surface of the liquid at a variable and infrequent rate.
WAYS TO COOK: WITH FAT
Cooking with fat encourages browning and adds richness. A lot of the cooking we do involves some kind of fat, whether it is vegetable oil, olive oil, butter, or fat rendered from meat (yay, bacon fat!). The difference between various cooking techniques that use fat mostly has to do with how much fat you’re using. It can range from 1 to 2 tablespoons in the whole recipe for a sauté to multiple cups for deep frying. Most cooking methods that use fat also rely on high heat, which limits the types of fat that can be used; you need one with a high smoke point that won’t break down and cause off-flavors, especially when deep frying (we like peanut oil). Frying causes moisture to flee the food once it lands in hot oil. As the food cooks and more moisture escapes, the food’s exterior dries out and you achieve the final goal: a crisp crust.
Sear
To cook food in a small amount of fat over high heat without moving the food in order to develop a flavorful, well-browned crust.
Searing is frequently used to create a browned crust on proteins like steaks, chops, fish, or poultry before the interior of the food is finished with a gentler cooking method. Preheat the pan properly before searing; it should be very hot and the fat should just start to smoke before you add the ingredient to be seared. Make sure to pat the food dry before searing it; moisture can interfere with getting a good sear. And don’t move the food around at all during the first few minutes of searing or worry if it seems to be sticking; wait until it releases from the pan by itself before you flip it or move it.
Sauté
To quickly cook food in a small amount of fat over moderately high heat while frequently moving it around the pan.
The moderate heat of a sauté ensures that the food won’t overcook. Stirring and/or shaking the pan helps make sure all the ingredients are equally exposed to the heat. Make sure the pan and any fat are properly heated before adding your ingredients.
Stir-Fry
To quickly cook thinly cut food in oil over high heat.
Traditionally, stir-fried food is constantly flipped and turned, but we find that you get better browning if you actually let the food stay put, stirring just once or twice. And by the way, you don’t need a wok to stir-fry; on a home stove, you’ll get better results with a regular old skillet.
Shallow-Fry
To cook in hot oil deep enough to partially surround the food.
Also called pan frying, shallow frying uses much less oil than deep frying and can be done in a skillet. It works best for thinner ingredients like cutlets that don’t have to be fully submerged in oil in order to cook through.
Deep-Fry
To cook in hot oil deep enough to fully surround the food.
The key to crispy, browned deep-fried food is keeping the oil at the right temperature. Oil that’s too cool will yield pale, greasy food. Too hot, and you’ll get bitter, blackened food. The proper frying temperature is usually between 325 and 375 degrees (but check your recipe for specifics). Use a digital thermometer to check the temperature before adding the first batch of food to be fried.
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Strike when the pan is hot; the temperature of the cooking surface will drop the minute food is added so don’t rush preheating. When the oil starts to shimmer, it’s the right temperature to sauté vegetables that don’t need to be browned. For proteins, wait until the oil lets off wisps of smoke.
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WAYS TO COOK: WITH DRY HEAT
Cooking with dry heat, as opposed to in fat or water, is a way to cook food without introducing distracting flavors from fats or excess moisture from water. In roasting and baking, the two most common dry-heat techniques, what you’re actually cooking with is essentially hot air, aka convective heat, as well as radiant heat from the oven’s walls. Air is a relatively inefficient conductor, however, which makes baking and roasting fairly slow cooking methods. This is also why dry-heat cooking is frequently used as a component step in a larger, more complex recipe; we frequently combine stovetop searing with oven roasting, as in Slow-Roasted Beef. This allows us to get the quick high-heat browning of cooking with fat as well as the gentler, more forgiving convective heat of roasting.
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Spacing food out when roasting allows the hot air to wash over the food, cooking it more evenly and drying the surface, which helps to develop a nice crust.
Roast
To cook food in a pan in a hot oven.
Bake
To cook by convective heat in a hot oven.
The terms “roast” and “bake” mean essentially the same thing but are commonly used to refer to different types of recipes. As a category, “baking” involves a lot of chemistry that happens in the oven because of the ingredients used in baking recipes. However, there is nothing different in the way the heat itself is applied to the food. A baked potato and a roasted potato are the same thing.
Toast
To brown food by dry heat—and without adding fat—using an oven or skillet.
Toasting causes browning reactions and chemical changes in ingredients. Ingredients that are commonly toasted include nuts, seeds, and whole spices.
WAYS TO COOK: WITH AN OPEN FLAME
Despite today’s fancy gear, grilling remains a basic—primitive, even—technique: Go outside, put food over hot coals or an open flame, and cook until it’s done, with the added bonus of flavors created by the smoke and fire. Not everyone has year-round access to outdoor cooking methods, but if you do, they are some of the most flavorful ways to cook food. Broiling brings the flame indoors and approximates the effect of grilling from above.
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The distance of an inch or two can mean the difference between perfectly charred and burnt, so read the recipe to be sure your rack is properly spaced from the broiler’s heat source.
Broil
To cook by direct exposure to a heating element in an oven.
While roasting relies on convective heat of air molecules surrounding the food, a broiler cooks food primarily with radiant heat, a form of invisible light waves. Their intense heat, whether from an actual flame or heated coil, makes them ideal for creating browned crusts, as in our Macaroni and Cheese, and cooking food through in minutes. But not all broilers operate the same way, which can make them tricky until you understand how yours works. So follow the manufacturer’s instructions. See this page for more on using your broiler.
Grill
To cook relatively small, individual-size, and quick-cooking foods directly over an outdoor fire.
Grilling is the speediest and simplest open-flame cooking method and typically uses high or moderate heat between 400 and 600 degrees. Most grilling takes place directly over the fire and the lid is often not used. Grilled foods derive their “grilled” flavor from dripping fat that hits the heat source, creating smoke.
Barbecue
To cook large, tough cuts of meat using indirect, gentle heat from an outdoor fire.
Barbecuing is the lowest and slowest open-flame cooking method. It uses temperatures of 250 to 300 degrees, and cooking times often exceed 3 hours as the meat is cooked past the point of what’s considered well done, until its proteins break down to a meltingly tender texture. Barbecued foods derive their “barbecued” flavor from wood chips or chunks that create smoke.
HOW TO SEASON FOOD
You can follow a recipe to the letter and still end up with food that doesn’t taste good to you; everyone’s palate is different. We have tastebuds for salty, sweet, bitter, sour, and savory (or umami) distributed all over our tongues and the rest of our mouths. Thanks to genetic variation, different individuals taste things differently, so what the recipe developer thought was perfect may not be your cup of tea. It’s important to understand how to make seasoning work for you.
While adding salt and pepper “to taste” is almost always the final step of a recipe, you can also use a whole range of other ingredients to bring a dish into balance. Just a small quantity of one of these finishing touches (from a pinch to ½ teaspoon) is a good starting place.
SALTINESS
Salt, soy sauce, fish sauce, feta cheese, Parmesan
What It Does
Adds depth and offsets sweetness; tempers acidity and bitterness
Suggested Uses
Chocolate desserts, soups and stews, pasta, grains, fruit salads, dipping sauces
SWEETNESS
Granulated or brown sugar, honey, maple syrup, mirin, sweet wine or liqueur, jam or jelly
What It Does
Rounds out sharp, bitter, or salty flavors
Suggested Uses
Salsas, sauces, bitter greens, vinaigrettes, relishes
SOURNESS
Vinegar, citrus juice, pickled vegetables (such as jalapeños)
What It Does
Adds brightness to flat-tasting dishes, cuts through richness or sweetness
Suggested Uses
Meaty stews and soups, creamy sauces and condiments, braised or roasted meats
BITTERNESS
Dry or prepared mustard, beer, fresh ginger, chili powder, unsweetened cocoa powder, dark chocolate, horseradish, cayenne pepper, coffee, citrus zest
What It Does
Cuts sweetness
Suggested Uses
Barbecued meats, slaws, chopped salads, chili
UMAMI
Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, fish sauce, miso, Parmesan cheese, anchovies, tomato paste, mushrooms, sherry
What It Does
Adds meatiness, depth, or earthiness; boosts dishes that taste a bit flat
Suggested Uses
Bolognese or other meaty sauces, hearty vegetarian sauces, soups, deli sandwich fillings such as tuna salad
RICHNESS
Heavy cream, butter, olive oil
What It Does
Rounds out flavors, adds viscosity
Suggested Uses
Lean vegetable-based soups, sauces
5 EYE-OPENING PRINCIPLES OF HOW FLAVOR WORKS
1 Cold Dulls Flavor
The microscopic receptors in your taste buds are extremely temperature-sensitive. They work much better at warm temperatures than at cooler ones; when you eat cold food, they barely open, minimizing flavor perception. However, when food is hot, their sensitivity increases more than a hundredfold, making food taste way more flavorful. Cold food also has fewer aromas, which makes them taste less flavorful. So, dishes meant to be served hot should be reheated, and dishes served chilled must be aggressively seasoned to make up for the flavor-dulling effects of cold temperatures.
2 Fat Carries Flavor
Fat is not only an efficient carrier of flavor, it also dissolves flavor components, carrying them into sauce and other surrounding ingredients. Some meat scientists claim that if you removed all of the fat from meat you could not tell the difference between, say, pork and beef because so many of the flavor components reside in the fat. Fat also gives flavors roundness and, by coating your mouth, lets you savor them. This is why adding a fat (such as butter, sour cream, cheese, or oil) to an overly spicy dish can help counteract the offending ingredient and balance out the flavors.
3 Brown Is the Color of Flavor
Whether from caramelization of sugars or the browning of proteins called the Maillard reaction, when a food turns brown during cooking, that indicates chemical changes that cause the development of tons of new flavor, color, and aroma compounds.
4 Flavor Changes over Time
Have you ever noticed how some soups and stews taste better the day after you make them? In addition to the changes that occur with temperature, there are many other chemical reactions that continue to take place even after cooking ends. The sugars in dairy break down, the carbohydrates in onions develop into sugars, the starches in potatoes convert into flavorful compounds, and you end up with a deeper, more richly flavored dish. Flavors that may seem harsh at first, like chile peppers, mellow with time. If a recipe specifically calls for you to let the dish sit so the flavors can meld, do it; it will result in a more balanced dish.
5 Salt Is Magic
Salt may well be the most important ingredient in cooking. It is one of our five basic tastes and it adds an essential depth of flavor to food. Salt also has the ability to change the molecular makeup of food and is used to preserve and to add moisture to meat. For more information, see this page and this page.
5 never-fail strategies for making food taste better
1. SPICE UP SPICES To intensify the flavor of preground spices, cook them briefly in a little butter or oil before adding liquid to the pan. If the recipe calls for sautéing aromatics, add the spices to the pan when the aromatics are nearly cooked.
2. MAKE NUTS NUTTIER Toasting nuts brings out their aromatic oils, contributing to a stronger, more complex flavor and aroma. See this page for more information.
3. YOU’RE THE SAUCE BOSS Almost any dish can be improved with the addition of a sauce. Sauce is your secret weapon: Dollop it on vegetables, drizzle it on steak, or smear it on a sandwich. See some of our favorites on this page.
4. JUST A SPOONFUL OF SUGAR Browned food tastes better, and the best way to accelerate browning is with a pinch of sugar sprinkled on lean proteins (such as chicken and seafood) or over vegetables before sautéing.
5. FINISH WITH ACID AND HERBS One of the easiest fixes for a dish that needs a little more life is a dash of brightness from something acidic, such as lemon juice or vinegar, and a sprinkle of freshness from minced herbs.
INTRODUCTION
There are plenty of reasons to get more comfortable in the kitchen, develop better skills, and acquire a repertoire of dishes you enjoy making and can confidently cook. First, you’ll feed yourself—and others—better food, probably more healthfully and more cheaply than you were before. Second, it’s empowering to look at a chicken (or an eggplant or a half-dozen eggs) and know you can turn it into something delicious. Cooking is also one of the simplest ways to share something you’ve created with others, and the process itself can even become a meditative source of pleasure.
Most of us can cook at least something for ourselves, but what makes a confident cook? You certainly don’t need to go to cooking school to cook well, but the way most of us learn to cook—through a combination of helping parents or grandparents, watching random episodes of cooking shows, and/or trying out any recipe that sounds good—can leave our culinary education feeling a bit haphazard. Even those of us who have cooked for years can feel like we don’t have a clear handle on certain essentials.
When should you reach for a nonstick skillet, for example? (Whenever you want? Or sometimes not?) How do you cook fish fillets that stay moist, or fry an egg that maintains a runny yolk? And what even counts as essential these days? Making a lasagna, probably, but what about the pad thai you order every week? A perfect steak, sure, but what about having the perfect vegetarian main dish in your back pocket? This book answers these questions and many more. The recipes will help you develop your cooking skills while building a solid set of dishes you can count on—whether for breakfast, Wednesday’s dinner, or your first dinner party.
But solid needn’t mean boring! Even if you’re new to cooking, that’s no reason to limit yourself with flavors. You just need an approachable recipe. That’s why our new essentials include not only the perfect weeknight roast chicken and a killer banana bread, but also a Turkish-inspired tomato soup, luscious Chinese braised short ribs, and a set of grain bowls that will become regular go-tos. We’ve got a great burger for you whether you want to use beef, pork, or beans. And if you do think pad thai is out of reach, try our everyday version.
You don’t need a kitchen full of fancy equipment to cook great food. In the first part of the book, you’ll find the elements of setting up and making use of your kitchen, covering all the equipment you need and the fundamental skills you’ll use every time you cook. Try those skills out in the second part, “The Simplest Way to Cook Everything.” Here you’ll learn to fry that perfect runny egg, braise hearty greens, and sear restaurant-caliber steaks and chops—all bui