newbe need help 45 acp load

ok i have zero full meatal jackets with lead showing on the back of the bullet 230 grain 45 acp win casees and cci 300 primers with power pistal powder. what should i set the powder load at i think but not sure im setting it at 6.7 grains am i off or is this right im unsure. and is this type of powder a dirty or clean powder:what:

No you need to work up a load starting your efforts by consulting the Alliant Powder Web site. You need to work up loads from the bottom up looking accuracy, function, and safety! YOU DONT PLUCK A LOAD OUT OF THE AIR!

ArchAngelCD

March 10, 2009, 04:08 AM

Like said above, use the data on the Alliant Load Data Site (http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/default.aspx?page=/reloaders/index.aspx&). Also, when you set your powder measure don't trust the charts, weigh the first few charges to make sure they are correct and then check a few as you load. Make sure the OAL (Over All Length) of the finished round is correct too. (use a set of Calipers to check)

Welcome to the forum...

Steve C

March 10, 2009, 04:52 AM

Current Alliant data using Speers 230gr TMJ bullets lists 8.1grs of PP as maximum but the previous data using 230gr jacketed bullets like you have, listed the maximum at 7.2grs (7.5grs is listed as maximum for +P pressure). Your selected load of 6.7grs of PP is an appropriate start load for your bullet type. Personally I wouldn't exceed 7.2grs.

As others have said, you need to weigh the charges being thrown from a powder measure to adjust it to what you want to dispense. If you are using a Lee disc system measure that's not fully adjustable you still need to see what its actually throwing, usually the chart is optomistic, so the scale is still needed.

When working up a load in the .45 which is a low pressure cartridge to begin with, you can't use the typical primer indicators of pressure as you'd be way over 2X pressure by the time you saw flatening or cratered primers. How heavy a load is can best be determined by how far the pistol throws the brass compared to a factory load.

kestak

March 10, 2009, 07:55 AM

Greetings,

Do not take this wrong. Don't be discouraged and ask plenty of questions. People here will help you. We will be glad to make your reloading experience succesful and safe.

Now...the bad stuff:

Frankly, your post is scary. Reloading is a manufacturing process. Like any manufacturing process, you need to know what you are doing and make sure of the quality of the product made through a quality control program.

Just the way you wrote your message, denotes a lack of details: typos, no capital letters, not enough information.

You need to research what are the components you are using and know how to assemble them.

Did you prepare your cases (clean)?
How did you determine the powder you are using? How will you make sure you have the correct amount of powder? What is the OAL of your cartride?

I strongly suggest you buy the book ABC of reloading and read before you blow up your gun.

Thank you

243winxb

March 10, 2009, 09:30 AM

What Steve C has said, good info. Check every powder charge with a scale till you get to know your equipment. Then check every 10th powder drop. Load a few test rounds first. If they work OK, load more.

Master Blaster

March 10, 2009, 09:36 AM

Go out and buy a copy of Lyman 48, its a reloading manual and it explians the entire process as well as providing loading data.

Get a decent scale and check weights, and actually weigh the charges to check the powder measure.

TedsKimber

March 10, 2009, 06:00 PM

sorry about the typos and sorry for not puting cap letters in i was jest getting to the point of what info i needed can not spell very well but i must not be to dum. i own 3 18 bay automotive shops and i am a recirtified ase master tec with a masters in 7 car lines. i jest want to be safe in what i am doing. i have reserched the reloading alot but i always like other openions becouse you guys know alot more about this than i do. sorry if i have afended any one. now to get back to where i was i have a dillon r-550b press dig scales with dillon reg scale to recheek my load .dig caliper and all the things i need to reload incudeing lyman 49th ed and speer #14 ed plus lee 2nd ed and nosler #6 ed and the complete reloading manual for 45acp. i have cheeked all the books but none give me fmj zero bullets layman says tmj start 6.4 max 7.2 grains , speer tmj-rn what does that mean tmj-rn it shows 7.0start and 8.1 grains lee shows 6.7 start and 7.2 max the 45acp manual only shows max 7.2 all this is for 230 fmj with power pistal powder alliant power .i have set up all my dies in press and miked and caliperd all the setings to spec right down to the crimp die have set powder mesure to 6.7 and have recheeked 8 times with reloader and shell and both scales to be acurate i want to info how do you with manuals or with out manual fig out what is a good load for a bullet named zero with no info on the bullet itself it is all my reloading shop had this was there sugestion on the load but i want some real guys that shoot and reload every day to give me your thoughts i jest like alot of as mutch info i can get .thank all you for your help but i jest do not want to mess up becouse 1 mistake could be dangerous .please help with lots of input i will adsorbe it all like best bullets best powders and primers and combinations . for being in the bullseye the little red dot in the target

TedsKimber

March 15, 2009, 05:25 PM

no one is going to help Whats up with That:eek:

Ridgerunner665

March 15, 2009, 05:33 PM

Start at 6.5 grains...don't go over 7.6 grains, and be VERY careful once you get over 7.2 (this is +P territory on most pistols)

A good load for me has been 7 grains of Power Pistol (the best 45acp powder there is IMO) under 230 grain bullets. OAL 1.26" for FMJ.

As long as you're not working near MAX...bullet manufacturer won't matter. One jacketed bullet is pretty much the same as the next...but the small differences in "bearing surface" can mean A LOT when working at near max loads.

Walkalong

March 15, 2009, 05:56 PM

i own 3 18 bay automotive shops and i am a recirtified ase master tec with a masters in 7 car linesThen you can certainly afford a couple of manuals, and are smart enough to research data online on the powder companies websites. :)

You can work on typing later. :neener:

We don't mind helping, but spoon feeding a grown man is another thing all together.

Schleprok62

March 15, 2009, 06:59 PM

FWIW... Reloading, as stated previously, is a manufacturing process. It's also a very detail oriented hobby... pay very close attention to every step along the way to a finished product, for EVERY ROUND YOU BUILD, not just the first one... It's been stated that "we are literally playing with dynamite" and, if you look at it from a broad perspective, we are.

Safety is of the utmost importance, none of us here want to see, or hear, of anyone getting themselves hurt. Unfortunately, there is always someone, somewhere who gets a little complacent in their ways, and have made mistakes, fortunately, so far, since I've been on THR, no-one has been seriously injured (that I am aware of). Most of them are not proud of their mistakes, but are moral enough to come on here and enlighten us to their experiences. Most often, it's something simple. And to these gentleman, I tip my hat, and have the utmost respect for sharing their experience, and their guidance.

Attention to detail is critical... even when typing a forum post. Punctuation, however meaningless in other mediums, is quite important here... I had to read your original post several times before I realized you were using "Power Pistol" powder...

Anytime I sit down with a new load in mind, I get my old data out and go over it to see what I've tried before, what's been good, what's been not-so-good... What components I used, what I have in hand that might not be the same. Whether it's a primer, or a different manufacturer of bullet, or any number of other factors that will put me in a "start from scratch" frame of mind... i.e. start at the lower end of the spectrum, and work up several batches of five or 10 rounds per load. Then it's off to the range to test them... whichever one works best for me, is the one I come hom and make a bunch of. :)

Load data is out there for a reason... use it, use as many sources as you can, stay safe, and enjoy the hobby for years...