Paul and Lucy Spadoni periodically live in Tuscany to explore Paul’s Italian roots, practice their Italian and enjoy “la dolce vita.”
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Saturday, November 5, 2016

How to eat well in Italy: some advice from a blogger (and) abroad

Since
there are so many incredibly good food establishments in Italy, this
may seem like an obvious topic with obvious answers, but there are
some Italian terms that can be baffling to the uninitiated. It took
us a while to figure all of this out, but you can save some time and
learn from our experiences.

La Terrazzo in Montecarlo advertises itself as both a ristorante and a pizzeria.

First, though, an explanation of Italian meals: Formal
lunches or dinners served on special occasions in Italy can include
many courses, including the antipasto (pre-meal appetizers and
drinks), the primo piatto (first course, which is usually a pasta
dish or soup), the secondo piatto (second course, usually meat or
fish) and then a contorno (vegetables) with insalata mista (mixed
green salad). The dolce (dessert) can either be fresh fruit or a
sweet pastry or custard. Then comes the caffè, usually an Italian espresso, but
you can request your favorite variety. Some restaurants also offer a
sweet wine, grappa or limoncello to help digest your meal.

Having
explained all this, a meal like the one above is the exception, not
the rule. Feel free to order whatever you want from the menu. As a
couple, we often order one plate
for two people (dividiamo in due). That way we can sample many items
without getting too stuffed to finish. Or we may just order a single
antipasto to share and then we each order a primo, or each order a primo and then split a secondo. It’s your meal, and you can do what you want.

On
to the definitions:

Ristorante:
Of course, this is the word for restaurant. Make an effort to
pronounce it correctly: REES/tohr/ahnt/teh, not REST/tohr/ahnt/tee.
You can expect full service, with someone to seat you and an experienced
and polished waiter who knows the food and wine well. The menu will
be printed with fixed prices for all the courses, and the variety
will be wide.

You can get a fantastic meal at the Trattoria di Montecarlo.

Trattoria
(Trah/tohr/EE/ah): Basically the same as a ristorante, but the
different word indicates that it is family owned with a more casual
or rustic environment that might be found in a small neighborhood.
The menu may be smaller. However, now some trattorie (plural of
trattoria) are essentially the same as ristoranti, so you may not
notice any difference.

Another of our favorites, Osteria alla Fortezza.

Osteria:
These are
wine bars that have lately evolved to serve simple but full meals.
They may have no menu and offer few or no choices for each course.
The offering changes daily, according to the market, and two or three
courses are offered for a fixed price, including wine.

Bar
or
caffè (sometimes caffetteria):
You probably think you know what these are because we also have them
in America, but they’re not at all the same thing in Italy. They
are places to get coffee and a pastry in the morning. Some also serve
panini (sandwiches) at lunch. Others will also have wine and
cocktails starting in the afternoons (happy hour), with potato chips
or nuts on the counter.

You get a lot more than wine now at an enoteca. Here is a
sampling of local treats at the Piccola Enoteca in Montecarlo.

Enoteca:
The word literally means “wine repository,” but these have also
evolved. Historically, an enoteca gave
visitors the possibility to taste local wines at a reasonable fee and
possibly to buy them. Snacks could also have been served, and in
recent times the snacks have become more varied and plentiful, also
showing off local specialties.

Rosticceria:
If the place where you live has a kitchen, this is a great way to
dine on authentic cuisine for an excellent price. Food here can be
compared to “fast food” because it is ready to take away and eat,
but it has been prepared with traditional slow methods. At a good
rosticceria, the
food is restaurant quality. Wine is often sold too, so you can save
money and bring home a complete meal. Some rosticcerie go by the
label tavola calda.

-eria
or -ria: Some eating establishments are
self-explanatory. A gelateria sells gelato. A pizzeria sells pizza. A

Enjoying a gelato at the Chiardicrema gelateria in Montecarlo,which also sells excellent crêpes and waffles.

birreria is a beer-focused bar. An ending can be added to almost any
food to show the specialty of the establishment.

A
few final words about paying at the end of your meal. Many
establishments will not bring your bill until you ask for it. You can
say, “Il conto, per favore.” Tips are not expected and are not
normal practice. Many meals will include a cover charge (coperto)
that includes bread and service (although some add separate coperto
and servizio charges). If you want to show extra appreciation, you
can leave one or two euros on the table, but again, it’s not usual.Buon appetito!

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‟An American family spends a year in Italy–a dream, a disaster, laughter and tears, an unforgettable memory. Warning: this book may cause you to book a flight to Italy. Enjoy!” –Maria Coletta McLean, author of My Father Came from Italy

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About Me

First off, before you hassle me about our title, Lucy thought of it. Yes, I know some people may think broad is derogatory, but the etymology is uncertain and she doesn’t find it offensive, and it made me laugh. We have been married since 1974 and are empty-nesters now, which allows me to bring my submerged Italophilia into the open. We first came to live in Italy from February-April in 2011 and have returned during the same months every year. From 2011-2015, we lived in San Salvatore, at the foot of the hilltop city Montecarlo, where my paternal grandparents were born, raised and, in 1908, married. In late 2015, we bought a home in Montecarlo. We come for a variety of purposes: We want to re-establish contact with distant cousins in both Nonno’s and Nonna’s families, we want to learn the language and see what it is like to live as Italians in modern Italy, we like to travel and experience different cultures. Even if we aren’t successful at achieving these purposes, we love Italy and enjoy every moment here, so there is no chance we will be disappointed. I am grateful to God for giving me a wife who is beautiful, clever, adaptable and willing to jump into my dreams wholeheartedly.