Attention all Knifemakers!.....Product dealers/retailers and/or knife makers/sharpeners/hobbyists (etc) are not permitted to insert business related text/videos/images (company/company name/product references) and/or links into your signature line, your homepage url (within the homepage profile box), within any posts, within your avatar, nor anywhere else on this site. Market research (such as asking questions regarding or referring to products/services that you make/offer for sale or posting pictures of finished projects) is prohibited. These features are reserved for supporting vendors and hobbyists.....Also, there is no need to announce to the community that you are a knifemaker unless you're trying to sell something so please refrain from sharing.
Thanks for your co-operation!

If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

My sharpening tool

Hello,

I just finished this knife sharpening tool. On the left is a pivot point. Basically a piece of threaded bar with a nut for height altering, on a hinge. Then to the right, comes a linear bearing, then the mechanism for setting the right angle, and then another pivot point for flipping the knife over, and then the jaws. It works really well and is easy to operate, and the sharpening angle will keep the same all the way.

I have 220 - 400 - 1000 - 3000 and 10,000 japanese water stones, and not a proper stropping leather / paste...

Can you give me advise on sharpening? I use a 10 degree angle, and on the last moves, per stone, the movement is into the stone, so the bur goes away. At the end I stropped at a simple piece of leather at a slightly steeper angle.

My results were quite ok, shaving and cutting paper were easy, and was better then the free hand sharpening I did before. But I can't put my knife on a tomato and cut it by the weight of the knife. The smallest width on the primairie bevel is 0.4mm, damascus chef's knife, 60 HRc, 1.2842 and 1.2767 toolsteel.

+ 1 on the video request. Something like this needs to be seen in motion.

As for sharpening for the tomato test: try very light pressure at the end and edge traing strokes only.

Same thing when you're stropping: light pressure with more passes and also try and angle LOWER than the stone angle. If had the stone at 10deg, try something in the 6 to 9deg range. If you are going for crazy sharp, not durability, the idea is to round off / micro convex the edge as little as possible. The strop is going to give and flex and wrap around the edge, so you want an angle and pressure where it's just barely "kissing" the edge.

@tk59, you could look at this like a vector with it's tail fixed, and besides that all the freedom of movement. What flaws do you mean? What is irritating me so far is the weight of the arm, I think i'm going to install a spring under the arm.

@ Justin, what are edge traing strokes? Strokes pointing the edge into the stone?

I will make a video about the tool, and another video about how I sharpen right now, after the weekend.