the element has 4 coils, on low heat only 1 coil glows red, on high heat only 2 coils glow red. i would of thought that on low heat setting 2 coils should glow and on high heat setting all 4 would glow.

The cheapest thing to fix is them 2 white discs on the top (the limit switches.) Why not replace them and see if she fires off?

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What I do is jumper the discs. WARNING: be sure you jumper parts that will not fry the wiring harness. I once jumpered a filter mounted on back of a GE timer because I was at a loss as to why the dryer would not heat( everything checked out). I fryed the whole dang wiring harness.

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About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

i eliminated the limit switches by removing them and connecting the wires, this made no difference to the heat being made.here is 2 pics of half my heater element working, these pics were taken on full heat setting by the way.

Use your wiring diagram to see where the dead element is fed from. The answer is right there. Each element is powered separately, it appears. A switch or timer contact must be where the deficit is. Only you can determine this with your diagram. (put those limits back on!)

There's no use asking any further questions unless you have the diagram. We don't know how it's wired.

You have bypassed the heater safetys and nothing changed. the control thermostats are located in front under the lint filter on a lot of hotpoint dryers.this one is kinda weird.

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May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL