Quick question of all user of these tour series.
Is the “O3 tour mp” the same racquet as the “Ozone tour mp” ???
Sometimes in the big auction site appears both names, and all the pics seem to be the same frame, but in TW there are actually two different specifications for the two different names. I am at a loss here…
Could it be that (from the newest frame to the oldest)
- Exo3 tour
- 03 tour mp
- Ozone tour mp

Is this right?

And also can someone give me some insight as to the 03 tour/ozone tour compares to the new exo3?
I’m guessing maybe the old ones a bit stiffer, not by much, same amount of spin coming from the string bed, and a tad bit more power from the older version vs the new exo3.

I played this weekend with a different string setup.
My strings has always been full poly...55 tension more or less....
My latest string setup is kevlar mains, and synthetic gut cross....at 50

I can definitely say that there is improvement on the racket with a lower string tension. I have more power potential.

I decided for now to continue with the tours. They are awesome rackets...i cannot deny that. It was just more of a thing of trying to find ways to get rid of the unforgiving parts. I seem to be very erratic with my play...sometimes very good, sometimes very bad. I feel rackets do play a role, some more than others. And the tour is certainly not the most conservative or consistent experience ive had with rackets ive played with before. I basically think they are unforgiving overall, but brilliant when your eye is in. I believe one needs to be a very physical player, being able to run a lot for footwork, and energy to take a full swing at the ball. (the racket does not work for you as much as some other frames could) Some effort brings out the potential of the racket. So maybe, being a overly aggressive player, these rackets are what i need in my game to tone myself down?

- I can definitely say that this racket has helped me to improve my volleys and "alternate" serves.

- On the groundstrokes, i struggle to get power on the double backhand, but can really effortlessly slice a ball well. The open stance helps, but still a problem for me, whereas, with other power frames, i could get away with less than perfect technique...not with the tour though.

- The forehand is my best shot, and with this racket, one can really swing at the ball if you want to, with control still there due to spin and the flex absorbing the energy. Control for me with the tour, is harder direction wise, than depth wise. With some older rackets (blade 98 ), i would struggle with depth control, whilst direction was brilliant. Hard to say why. (personally i think its flex that takes away direction control on the groundies, but many would disagree).

- With the new string setup, i have definitely seen a improvement power wise on the serve, and my overheads from the baseline is clearing the net now and has pace. The racket is brilliant for regular overhead, even with the old string setup. I would still say that this racket is not good for power serves imo....there are better frames out there for that. But strings definitely helped based on this weekend.

Click to expand...

I agree with everything that's you're saying in that the racket does not work for you and it pushes you into developing smooth, fluid and consistent game to make the best out of it. Now is that bad?? For me, I would say that if you're a young, healthy, aggressive, quick-footed player with some untamed aggression at some points, then this racket could do you well. I did help me improve my volleys too... although the handle heavy balance feels awkward on the volleys at times. Directional control is tough, and it pretty logical that it would be somewhat lost with higher flex so don't mind anybody that says otherwise. Now again is that bad? Well maybe not. If you're trying to push the ball into the direction you want it to go, then you'll feel that lack of directional control a lot. However, how proper footwork and swing mechanics, you may get around that. Directional control in modern tennis is obtained through exploding up and rotating your body into the direction of the ball. And sometimes you have to catch the ball next to you (like on an inside out forehand) or more so in front of you (as in a cross court rally), and the Tour does push me into developing those instincts and growing my own directional control. Some people pick up this racket and absolutely hate it (like my couch potato friends), some people pick it up and do wonders with it off the bat, and others pick it up, use it and start thinking about how to become a player who can make something out of it.

Quick question of all user of these tour series.
Is the “O3 tour mp” the same racquet as the “Ozone tour mp” ???
Sometimes in the big auction site appears both names, and all the pics seem to be the same frame, but in TW there are actually two different specifications for the two different names. I am at a loss here…
Could it be that (from the newest frame to the oldest)
- Exo3 tour
- 03 tour mp
- Ozone tour mp

Is this right?

And also can someone give me some insight as to the 03 tour/ozone tour compares to the new exo3?
I’m guessing maybe the old ones a bit stiffer, not by much, same amount of spin coming from the string bed, and a tad bit more power from the older version vs the new exo3.

Click to expand...

I play with the O3 Tour MP. I bought and played with the Ozone Tour MP. Now it is subtle; and perhaps I was negatively influenced by my supplier who opined that the Ozone was made from "lesser" grade materials as the "ozone" range was in his opinion more of a recreational line. Anyway eventually I decided to focus on the O3 tour MP andbought up a ton of those. Experientially the Ozone did seem perhaps a liitle hollower feeling but like I said its subtle. The measurements seem the same; the paint job was changed but underneath I'd say it was the same mold. I will one day (if I break an O3) cut open one of each to know for certain...

With the new exo3; they are made differently. I've been wanting to try one to compare but no one in my area of san diego has a demo. The RA number is lower on the exo3 52 vs 60 for O3...

It really does not matter; but I also bought some O3 tour pro stocks; and I can tell you that Ferrer; Ferrero, Granollers, Troicki; Andujar, Ramos etc all use O3 tour with exo3 paintjob. It looks like Donald Young and Daniella Hantuchova use the actual exo3...

Just tried this racquet out... It's the most comfortable racquet I have demo'ed thus far in a list that includes Wilson 6.1 100, PD 2012, Aero Storm, Prince Red, Wilson Steam, Juice and many, many more.

I played one set and thoroughly enjoyed hitting with spin (!!) while rushing the net. I am hoping to play a few hours tomorrow with it.

How does this racquet compare to the 18X20 in its ability to put power on the ball? What about spin? In your experiences of course.

When I looked for a replacement for my trusty yellow Aggassi Radical OS my wishlist was: Heavy but nimble; soft but strong; HL; Big head but thin beam; Big sweetspot but close ground clearance; Big spin but pace. In other words, a new and improved yellow Radical OS. The quest has been futile til Prince managed it with EX03 Tour 100 16x18.

Took me almost 4 months to dial it in and I almost gave up. The incredible shots I could generate when I DID hit it right kept me from giving up. The wait has been worth it.

Bottom line: This is the all-aroundbest racquet I have ever played with in 45 yrs.

I have always played a live-or-die by shotmaking type of game inspired by by first idol The Rocket. The fate of anachronisms of us have been akin to the 98 lb weakling having sand kicked in his face by bullies typified by Lendl clones. But the Mister Atlas of tennis has arrived in the form of Prince's EX03 Tour 100 16x18. This stick has simply so enhanced every aspect of the all-court game its like an overall 100% upgrade. The days of finesse players being bullied are over

For a small and/or aging player (I'm both, sigh..) there is only one antidote to the contemporary baseline power game - variety. Utterly amazing to me still after 8 months, what this stick can do. I am having just so much dang fun playing ALL the variety again.

Groundies.
Crazy spin. Thin beam allows Rosewallian knifing - low, penetrating and very tough for baseliners esp westies. From both sides perspective, there is a never before encountered sort of anti-gravity effect - flat trajectories that travel longer than they should somehow. Even I am still surprised by for sure tapers that wierdly skim over catching guys flatfooted time and again. As a result, my deep-short attacks are more deceptive.

Good sidespin approaches can break 3+ feet. Good players anticipate breaks but a big sharp side skidder means less chance of a sure flatfooted plant - a slight edge for the advancing man.

Effortless toppers over the head off Eastern FH and 1BH. Craazy. Can't really hit through the court consistently but with this stick...yet. But my flat drives are coming along nicely...

Comfort.
Can soak up pace no prob and give it back. Perspective from both sides report pace is way heavier than it (oddly) feels on contact. Might be the unbelievable pocketing likely enhanced with my 46m/40x Gosen Polylon 17 setup. Spin is also big factor I think.

Touch.
Excellent, esp drop volleys. Unlike some, I always like the muted feel. No damping = more power, less spin. Full 8 string damping = way more spin, much less power. My current damping is 2 center string rubber band a la Aggassi for a nice balance while eliminating the irritating broken banjo tkerploink. Depth variation attacks are more effective through increased deception

Quickness.
Head so light its easy to hold shots a long time. Nice in point blank shootouts. Head speed is fastest I have ever felt. Since holes are 30-40% of the bow, perhaps there is something to the claimed aerodynamics factor after all. 9 pt HL (mine) is definitely a factor IMO. I find the whistling noise, annoying to some, helps tell me I'm accelerating as I should.

Service.
Quickness allows a lower toss, which is more natural rhythm for me. Effortless, heavy, snappy kickers - double benders quite often (Righty receiver's POV - bends L to R in flight, kicks back to L). Not so much flat heat but that's just me. When I'm feeling it though, stick's got enough even for a shrimp like me to hit through the court.

Returns.
Amaazing. I am able to stand in tight even on firsts because I can soak up pace and or add interest just by choking up a tad and squeezing it off hard. Handy in dubs for those fun rightbackatcha rockets.

Conclusion.
Its a basic old school racquet like I prefer, but superdupercharged in every aspect. A major breakthrough in design that is only fully appreciated (thank god, heheheh) by all courters If Tilden, who named, and described the all-court game as "consistent inconsistency" was around, I think he'd be approve this stick.

What kind of economic string setups do EXO3 Tour club members like? My upper limit for a setup is about 13 dollars.
I have already played 10+ hours with my new EXO3 Tour with Tonic Gut full bed #58 (heavily used), but I can't really tell what I'm looking for for my next string setup. If anything. I felt as though some of my shots were spraying long and wide, so I'd rather go for a control string setup.

Less power but more spin friendly than tonic would be nice. So basically economic control/spin oriented string setup.

When I looked for a replacement for my trusty yellow Aggassi Radical OS my wishlist was: Heavy but nimble; soft but strong; HL; Big head but thin beam; Big sweetspot but close ground clearance; Big spin but pace. In other words, a new and improved yellow Radical OS. The quest has been futile til Prince managed it with EX03 Tour 100 16x18.

Took me almost 4 months to dial it in and I almost gave up. The incredible shots I could generate when I DID hit it right kept me from giving up. The wait has been worth it.

Bottom line: This is the all-aroundbest racquet I have ever played with in 45 yrs.

I have always played a live-or-die by shotmaking type of game inspired by by first idol The Rocket. The fate of anachronisms of us have been akin to the 98 lb weakling having sand kicked in his face by bullies typified by Lendl clones. But the Mister Atlas of tennis has arrived in the form of Prince's EX03 Tour 100 16x18. This stick has simply so enhanced every aspect of the all-court game its like an overall 100% upgrade. The days of finesse players being bullied are over

For a small and/or aging player (I'm both, sigh..) there is only one antidote to the contemporary baseline power game - variety. Utterly amazing to me still after 8 months, what this stick can do. I am having just so much dang fun playing ALL the variety again.

Groundies.
Crazy spin. Thin beam allows Rosewallian knifing - low, penetrating and very tough for baseliners esp westies. From both sides perspective, there is a never before encountered sort of anti-gravity effect - flat trajectories that travel longer than they should somehow. Even I am still surprised by for sure tapers that wierdly skim over catching guys flatfooted time and again. As a result, my deep-short attacks are more deceptive.

Good sidespin approaches can break 3+ feet. Good players anticipate breaks but a big sharp side skidder means less chance of a sure flatfooted plant - a slight edge for the advancing man.

Effortless toppers over the head off Eastern FH and 1BH. Craazy. Can't really hit through the court consistently but with this stick...yet. But my flat drives are coming along nicely...

Comfort.
Can soak up pace no prob and give it back. Perspective from both sides report pace is way heavier than it (oddly) feels on contact. Might be the unbelievable pocketing likely enhanced with my 46m/40x Gosen Polylon 17 setup. Spin is also big factor I think.

Touch.
Excellent, esp drop volleys. Unlike some, I always like the muted feel. No damping = more power, less spin. Full 8 string damping = way more spin, much less power. My current damping is 2 center string rubber band a la Aggassi for a nice balance while eliminating the irritating broken banjo tkerploink. Depth variation attacks are more effective through increased deception

Quickness.
Head so light its easy to hold shots a long time. Nice in point blank shootouts. Head speed is fastest I have ever felt. Since holes are 30-40% of the bow, perhaps there is something to the claimed aerodynamics factor after all. 9 pt HL (mine) is definitely a factor IMO. I find the whistling noise, annoying to some, helps tell me I'm accelerating as I should.

Service.
Quickness allows a lower toss, which is more natural rhythm for me. Effortless, heavy, snappy kickers - double benders quite often (Righty receiver's POV - bends L to R in flight, kicks back to L). Not so much flat heat but that's just me. When I'm feeling it though, stick's got enough even for a shrimp like me to hit through the court.

Returns.
Amaazing. I am able to stand in tight even on firsts because I can soak up pace and or add interest just by choking up a tad and squeezing it off hard. Handy in dubs for those fun rightbackatcha rockets.

Conclusion.
Its a basic old school racquet like I prefer, but superdupercharged in every aspect. A major breakthrough in design that is only fully appreciated (thank god, heheheh) by all courters If Tilden, who named, and described the all-court game as "consistent inconsistency" was around, I think he'd be approve this stick.

I´m going to give this frame a serious try. Had the first short hit today with the 16/18 version and strung with the factory strings. I have a big tournament this weekend so i will stick with my customized APDGT´s over that event but after that try the EXO3 tour and string it with Lux BB Original.

When i had the first hit today i felt that the frame is a tad to light for me. I´m used to heavier frames in the 320-330 gram range.

Here some questions;

A: Is the handle interior hollow so i can inject some silicon?

B: Anyone tried silicon in the handle? How does it affect this frame since its already so soft and dampened

I agree with everything that's you're saying in that the racket does not work for you and it pushes you into developing smooth, fluid and consistent game to make the best out of it. Now is that bad?? For me, I would say that if you're a young, healthy, aggressive, quick-footed player with some untamed aggression at some points, then this racket could do you well. I did help me improve my volleys too... although the handle heavy balance feels awkward on the volleys at times. Directional control is tough, and it pretty logical that it would be somewhat lost with higher flex so don't mind anybody that says otherwise. Now again is that bad? Well maybe not. If you're trying to push the ball into the direction you want it to go, then you'll feel that lack of directional control a lot. However, how proper footwork and swing mechanics, you may get around that. Directional control in modern tennis is obtained through exploding up and rotating your body into the direction of the ball. And sometimes you have to catch the ball next to you (like on an inside out forehand) or more so in front of you (as in a cross court rally), and the Tour does push me into developing those instincts and growing my own directional control. Some people pick up this racket and absolutely hate it (like my couch potato friends), some people pick it up and do wonders with it off the bat, and others pick it up, use it and start thinking about how to become a player who can make something out of it.

Click to expand...

Thanks for understanding...you seem to do...

The control and power I lose, may not necessarily be a lot, but even a little is a lot if you get what i mean. Lets say i was hitting down the line, flattish with pace, with a firmer racket....i would hit it with a margin of around 6 tennis ball widths or less direction wise. With the tour, i can almost double that when it comes to direction. Shots tend to be too late, rather than too early. In other words, as a right handed player on the forehand...my direction tends to go more right than its supposed to. So now it feels like i need to aim a little left in order for the ball to land where i want it to...with bad results. So then the racket forces me to create directional control using spin instead...and i don't always like that.
I think its the flex, albeit a little, it feels like a lot of directional change, especially on flatter strokes with power. Depth, not an issue so much.

I'm looking into a firmer, more traditional styled racket. I don't think the tour (or most prince rackets these days) is what one would call a conservative frame...its probably the exact opposite.

i honestly don't like the feel of the rebel 98, serve has more pace but lacks control and spin in comparason.
forehand- easier to swing, more power but lacks depth control.
backhand- i had trouble winning with 1hander had to switch to 2h which was pretty new to me.
i think it was more manueverable at net.

but this was a while ago, i was fairly lazy playing at the time with this racquet only spent 3-4 hours with it max.

i honestly don't like the feel of the rebel 98, serve has more pace but lacks control and spin in comparason.
forehand- easier to swing, more power but lacks depth control.
backhand- i had trouble winning with 1hander had to switch to 2h which was pretty new to me.
i think it was more manueverable at net.

but this was a while ago, i was fairly lazy playing at the time with this racquet only spent 3-4 hours with it max.

Click to expand...

Hey guys,

I was really looking forward to hitting with the Rebel 98 as I thought it would offer some more power that I felt the Tours lacked at times. When I first started to hit with the 98 it felt really sluggish to me and out of control. I really like the "Whip" factor you get with the exo3 Tours. The 98 had loads of power which was nice but I had issues controlling it. I think the 98 is more suited to a player who hits flatter and really wants to penetrate thru the court. Both are nice frames in my opinion but are suited to very different swing styles.

I have been using my Exo Tours 100's with the new Beast XP 17g at 44. Its been amazing for me. Has anyone else tried the Beast string in these frames. I was using BBO at 48 which was really nice however the Beast seems to give me some more power and spin.

Question / advice for klementine 79 or anyone who can help.
I am playing with 16x18, and I was satisfied with spin, power and maneuverability. Down side for me was serving, I just couldn't get serv up, and high ball trajectory on forehand because of spin, when I wanted to flat the ball on occasion I got trampoline effect and the ball was flying out.
I bought this weekend 18x20 version and got disappointed. First 18x20 is heavier than 16x18, I have felling that is head heavier than 16x18 that pushed me back because I had to do changes to my swing (and I already got just to 16x18), ok maybe that is only matter of time to get just to it.
I have installed the leather grip and two over grips on handle No. 3 which helped a little to get head light feel. I don't know is the string Babolat rpm blast heavy string or what?..in spec this two models are same in weight ratios.
The issue is low power level, maybe it is strings, because this rpm blast is on the racquet for few months now and probably lost tension, control is better and low power level deleted the trampoline effect but down side is that I can get enough power from frame. I can swing with all the power and the ball will stay in court, but I can see that my sparring partner is attacking the ball lot more when I play with 18x20. , with 16x18 i can get lot more spin and depth that is doing lots of trouble for my opponents, but as i said when I can prepare my forehand and get right timing the 16x18 is to powerful for me even with high tension.
My question is about advice on the string setup and tension; I think that low 50' is the best choice for getting more power?..i like poly's the best is that good choice, for example msw hex....
I know that Klementine have master's degree in 18x20 so any advice would be helpful...
What kind of string thickness should I take, thicker or the opposite? I saw that Chris put some lead on 12' to boost the power, but for now i think that my racquet would be too much head heavy with lead tape.
I have given my 16x18 to my wife and immediately she falls in love with it so I am stuck with 18x20 and I would really wanted to get along with it, well I don't have any choice, or to buy another 16x18, version and that is not in my plan.

I have left my Exo 18x20 at stringers today, the string choice is Msv Co focus 1,18 at 21/20 kg it is about 46/44 lbs. The tension is lowest that I ever strung on the stick, but I am giving high hopes about my choice. I have read past Klementine and others posts (users of 18x20) about string tension so I have chosen to go pretty low on tension I hope that I didn't make a mestake.
As I cut out Babolat string that was on the Exo the racquet lost 25 grams total (strings on: 344 grams, strings off: 319 grams).
As I said the feeling was that 18x20 version is head heavier than 16x18, now I can see why, that string was fat like barbwire, and that extra weight as I assume came from the thickness of string.
I will try Exo on friday and I am hoping that I will be satisfied, if not I have to spend some more money and buy again the 16x18 version and try to control this trampoline and high power effect that sometimes is really killing my nerves.:evil:

TW states that both 16x18 and 18x20 are pure graphite frames, hence the low flex rating. i like that but i would like to ask if someone knows if the frames are braided graphite or a single graphite cast mold?

braided frames i like the feel of those best, like in the k90 and i suspect that my redondo mids are also 100% braided graphite. and oh boy those PK are sweet ones!!

I need a bit of help. Ever since I played with the exo3 tour 18x20, I had problems I think adjusting to it. The pattern was always the same. First I played with the apdc. I did well, but developed a tennis elbow because I was forcing to much to keep the ball in play(not the case anymore. My strokes got smoother). When I bought the tour, I played really well, but then I began to play worse and worse and worse. Almost every ball I hit was going out, like almost hitting the fence or into the net After six(!) months I was sick of it and switched back to the apdc. I got more power and deeper shots, but I had the feeling I couldn't hit as fluent as with the tour. From that moment It was a bit of switching between those two rackets. I played my first tournament of the summer and reached a quarterfinal in the HE5 (like 4.0? But then by dutch rating) with the apdc. Then I played another one with the apdc and reached the second round, but played a decent match. After that I switched back to the tour and I was playing really well, but again, my game got worse. Btw I've some lead tape on the tours to get more power. 2 at 12, 2.5 at 3 and 2.5 at 9.

The problem is that my coach and some people I play with say I play better with the apdc, but I like the tour's feeling, manoeuvrability and flex and the more fluent motion when I hit with it compared to the apdc. Not that I don't like the apdc, but I've the feeling that I've to force more when hitting forehands and serves. But when I play with the tour, my game goes down...

Should I stay with the tour? Maybe lead it up more? Or should I switch permanently back to the apdc?

What do you guys think? I hope you can give me some feedback! Thanks in advance!

i honestly don't like the feel of the rebel 98, serve has more pace but lacks control and spin in comparason.
forehand- easier to swing, more power but lacks depth control.
backhand- i had trouble winning with 1hander had to switch to 2h which was pretty new to me.
i think it was more manueverable at net.

but this was a while ago, i was fairly lazy playing at the time with this racquet only spent 3-4 hours with it max.

Click to expand...

In recent years, i have found prince having this problem. I'm guessing that the port technology they use in recent years, creates too large of a sweetspot, actually depleting depth control. A larger sweetspot can create what feels like a trampoline effect in my opinion.

I need a bit of help. Ever since I played with the exo3 tour 18x20, I had problems I think adjusting to it. The pattern was always the same. First I played with the apdc. I did well, but developed a tennis elbow because I was forcing to much to keep the ball in play(not the case anymore. My strokes got smoother). When I bought the tour, I played really well, but then I began to play worse and worse and worse. Almost every ball I hit was going out, like almost hitting the fence or into the net After six(!) months I was sick of it and switched back to the apdc. I got more power and deeper shots, but I had the feeling I couldn't hit as fluent as with the tour. From that moment It was a bit of switching between those two rackets. I played my first tournament of the summer and reached a quarterfinal in the HE5 (like 4.0? But then by dutch rating) with the apdc. Then I played another one with the apdc and reached the second round, but played a decent match. After that I switched back to the tour and I was playing really well, but again, my game got worse. Btw I've some lead tape on the tours to get more power. 2 at 12, 2.5 at 3 and 2.5 at 9.

The problem is that my coach and some people I play with say I play better with the apdc, but I like the tour's feeling, manoeuvrability and flex and the more fluent motion when I hit with it compared to the apdc. Not that I don't like the apdc, but I've the feeling that I've to force more when hitting forehands and serves. But when I play with the tour, my game goes down...

Should I stay with the tour? Maybe lead it up more? Or should I switch permanently back to the apdc?

What do you guys think? I hope you can give me some feedback! Thanks in advance!

Gr Wibbssz

Click to expand...

Some of the feelings you mention on the tour, are what i experience myself to this day.
Something that has helped my game to adapt to a "demanding racket" like the tour, was to purposefully aim for more spin, and for less flat shots. In other words, my game improved when i changed my trajectory to be a little higher over the net. (sometimes even choosing a more semi-westernised forehand than eastern than i would regularly do)
The racket seems to dislike flat, and seems to like spin, especially when it comes to both control AND power.

Lead at 3&9 for me helped my power & feel...especially on the serve. It has however sacrificed maneuverability, which means i have to prepare earlier on shots.
Lead creates a more solid feel, but it can be tiring. Do not use a lot of lead. Even a little makes a heck of a difference to what the racket does. I use Pete Sampras lead. I cut it to around half the length....as well as cut away the middle parts to eventually have 2 strips at 3, and 2 strips at 9 of around 2cm long each.

Question / advice for klementine 79 or anyone who can help.
I am playing with 16x18, and I was satisfied with spin, power and maneuverability. Down side for me was serving, I just couldn't get serv up, and high ball trajectory on forehand because of spin, when I wanted to flat the ball on occasion I got trampoline effect and the ball was flying out.
I bought this weekend 18x20 version and got disappointed. First 18x20 is heavier than 16x18, I have felling that is head heavier than 16x18 that pushed me back because I had to do changes to my swing (and I already got just to 16x18), ok maybe that is only matter of time to get just to it.
I have installed the leather grip and two over grips on handle No. 3 which helped a little to get head light feel. I don't know is the string Babolat rpm blast heavy string or what?..in spec this two models are same in weight ratios.
The issue is low power level, maybe it is strings, because this rpm blast is on the racquet for few months now and probably lost tension, control is better and low power level deleted the trampoline effect but down side is that I can get enough power from frame. I can swing with all the power and the ball will stay in court, but I can see that my sparring partner is attacking the ball lot more when I play with 18x20. , with 16x18 i can get lot more spin and depth that is doing lots of trouble for my opponents, but as i said when I can prepare my forehand and get right timing the 16x18 is to powerful for me even with high tension.
My question is about advice on the string setup and tension; I think that low 50' is the best choice for getting more power?..i like poly's the best is that good choice, for example msw hex....
I know that Klementine have master's degree in 18x20 so any advice would be helpful...
What kind of string thickness should I take, thicker or the opposite? I saw that Chris put some lead on 12' to boost the power, but for now i think that my racquet would be too much head heavy with lead tape.
I have given my 16x18 to my wife and immediately she falls in love with it so I am stuck with 18x20 and I would really wanted to get along with it, well I don't have any choice, or to buy another 16x18, version and that is not in my plan.

Thanks for help.

Click to expand...

I bought a pair of 18x20s last year b/c my experience with 16x18 frames that are larger than 90 sq" is that they tend to be too powerful (maybe with the old red-n-black Yonex RQIS-1 being the exception). Anyway, I felt exactly like you did: that I had to swing like the Incredible Hulk to give my opponent any trouble and punted those frames to my wife. To my surprise, she played a lot better with the 18x20s than I did b/c she could control the point and stay in it longer. She developed a nasty forehand slice that didn't come up off the ground and was successful moving her opponents left and right (which was my experience as well). She got into trouble playing against players who hit as big as she did b/c of the lack in power, so I cut the strings out and restrung at a lower tension and now, not only does she get more depth, ball speed and court penetration, I took them out for a spin and I TOO LOVE THE FRAMES! Here's my tip for anyone who's new to the EXO3T-18x20, who feels they're too low powered: start with a 17g string with the tension in the low-mid 40s and work your way up slightly from there til you get the tension where you want it. B/C of the flex of the frame and the thin beam, lighter weight and tighter string pattern, your power will drop off dramatically as compared to the 16x18 version, which IMO needs to be strung @ 60 or above to keep the ball in the court.

Some of the feelings you mention on the tour, are what i experience myself to this day.
Something that has helped my game to adapt to a "demanding racket" like the tour, was to purposefully aim for more spin, and for less flat shots. In other words, my game improved when i changed my trajectory to be a little higher over the net. (sometimes even choosing a more semi-westernised forehand than eastern than i would regularly do)
The racket seems to dislike flat, and seems to like spin, especially when it comes to both control AND power.

Lead at 3&9 for me helped my power & feel...especially on the serve. It has however sacrificed maneuverability, which means i have to prepare earlier on shots.
Lead creates a more solid feel, but it can be tiring. Do not use a lot of lead. Even a little makes a heck of a difference to what the racket does. I use Pete Sampras lead. I cut it to around half the length....as well as cut away the middle parts to eventually have 2 strips at 3, and 2 strips at 9 of around 2cm long each.

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Mxmx, thanks for your reaction. I'm going to try it. If it doesn't work, I'm going to a ********** and ask a specialist for helping me out with the lead tape placement. How much lead do you recommend? Something like 3 gram at 3 and 3 gram at 9? Do I need some lead tape at 12 or isn't that necessary? I hope the tour is going to be a bit more headlight. Maybe it's a good idea to make the swingweight and the balace the same as the apdc.

I know that Klementine have master's degree in 18x20 so any advice would be helpful...

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Ciao Mateo!!!! and sorry for the late reply, I'm not logging in as often as before.

The 18x20 is a touchy stick, in terms of string/tension and weight customization. It is though, as you say, made for consistency, due to the low flex and denser pattern.

RPM blast felt good for me for about an hour, then the tension drops and it turns to mush. Try a stiffer poly or co-poly, like BBO or TB. I prefer BBO at 52lbs. even used in a hybrid with gut/multi it feels good. The tour100 needs a stiffer type of poly imo.

As far as weight, I've gone the same route as you. A leather grip with two overgrips but to balance it out, I've added 6gr total at 3&9. Added quite a bit more swing weight for picking balls early, on the rise and packs a punch now. Nice thing is, on your next string job, you can hide the lead tape underneath the port-holes if you'd like. The leather grip + 2og's will add about ~17grams to the stick and about 4pts towards HL balance, so keep this in mind.

Well I have done the string job on 18x20, the power level have risen to nice level, It is still underpowered but now I can crush the ball and the power is on.
I was playing for 2,5 hours and in that time 18x20 was in the game for 1h and 16x18 for 1h.
18x20, as I lowered the tension I have manage to delete the under power problem, directional control is great and the ''flat'' serve is on the top. Only down side for me is weight.
It is significantly heftier in the hoop than 16x18, after 2h of playing and rallying my arm was tired, from the weight and low powered level, because I have to pull all the power from arm and body to get winner points or just to rally on high level and on serve.
The 16x18 (it was strung minutes before playing) was different story, the weight (for me) is on right path (it has 2g of lead at 3&9) and it was easier to get power, control for me is pretty similar to 18x20 if you imply spin on the ball. Yes, you have to control yourself at the beginning of play because of extra power but after 1 or 2 h playing in sunny condition that stock of power was great help when my body condition was on empty.
To sum up, both of two versions are great, the best frame for me in long time, but my decision will go to 16x18 model with poly and lead on 3&9. I have to work on controlling the power but in the end, spin and extra power on demand are the facts for me to go and buy again 2x 16x18. (first 16x18 is now my wife's racquet of choice)
The 18x20 I would recommend to younger players (or flat hitters with good body condition), that are in training and on the court every day and playing on the tournaments. For me it is same or similar like Prestige mp, you have to do every time and everything on top level to squeeze out the best from frame.
I think that it is win win frame, I am 30y old and my power, speed and skill are not on that level that I had when I was 15y old junior player.
So, 2x 16x18 Tours are in my bag....

Ciao Mateo!!!! and sorry for the late reply, I'm not logging in as often as before.

The 18x20 is a touchy stick, in terms of string/tension and weight customization. It is though, as you say, made for consistency, due to the low flex and denser pattern.

RPM blast felt good for me for about an hour, then the tension drops and it turns to mush. Try a stiffer poly or co-poly, like BBO or TB. I prefer BBO at 52lbs. even used in a hybrid with gut/multi it feels good. The tour100 needs a stiffer type of poly imo.

As far as weight, I've gone the same route as you. A leather grip with two overgrips but to balance it out, I've added 6gr total at 3&9. Added quite a bit more swing weight for picking balls early, on the rise and packs a punch now. Nice thing is, on your next string job, you can hide the lead tape underneath the port-holes if you'd like. The leather grip + 2og's will add about ~17grams to the stick and about 4pts towards HL balance, so keep this in mind.

Let me know how it goes.

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Hi K79, I have posted some of my thoughts for 18x20. The same results I had with Prestige (in my junior day's i have played with PT630), every time that I take prestige or PT 630 my game rise up for two levels, but only for 30 min., because when I get tired my ball speed and stroke speed is like in slow movie. The heft and low power effect is killing my game when I am tired.
Especially when I play with younger players.
Definitely if I would play game for 30 min I would be on the top with players stick like 18x20
So I will play with 16x18 it sounds like retirement racquet but it is very nice stick, as you know.
Hope that your shoulder is on the level like Exo 18x20
thanks for advice ....

Mxmx, thanks for your reaction. I'm going to try it. If it doesn't work, I'm going to a ********** and ask a specialist for helping me out with the lead tape placement. How much lead do you recommend? Something like 3 gram at 3 and 3 gram at 9? Do I need some lead tape at 12 or isn't that necessary? I hope the tour is going to be a bit more headlight. Maybe it's a good idea to make the swingweight and the balace the same as the apdc.

Gr Wiibssz

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No problem dude...

Unless you buy Pete Samprass lead, i cannot answer you without having to re-measure on a electronic scale (or you can search my old posts regarding what i said about my lead setup if you're bored). I have discussed a lot with some ppl regarding the exo's.
All i can say is that its probably close to your prediction of (1,5g strip + 1,5g strip) at 3, and the same at 9 (total of 4 small strips of around 2cm long)

....I do not recommend the lead at 12 as much...I had my one racket with plus minus 3g (full pete sampras strip at 12)...and the cut pete sampras strips 3&9 setup on the other racket...i prefer the 3&9 by FAR. It stabilizes the racket more and affects the swingspeed less. At 12 is a waste in my opinion. Do not place lead on both 12 & 3&9 as it will become too heavy.

Only down side for me is weight.
It is significantly heftier in the hoop than 16x18, after 2h of playing and rallying my arm was tired, from the weight and low powered level, because I have to pull all the power from arm and body to get winner points or just to rally on high level and on serve.

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My two 18x20s came in at 324 grams strung compared to 329 for my two 16x18s. Swingweight is lower as well. I need a few more grams of lead in the hoop to bring it up to similar to the 16x18s.

This is the problem with such small samples. Yours is heavier and mine is lighter. Someone else reading this may have two that swing the same.

I'm gonna pick up my 16x18 tomorrow , which strings do you recomend for a good power without losing too much control ?
I was playing with a KBlade Team with full poly at 58 lb and it felt a little low powered

I'm gonna pick up my 16x18 tomorrow , which strings do you recomend for a good power without losing too much control ?
I was playing with a KBlade Team with full poly at 58 lb and it felt a little low powered

I couldn't buy it It's out of stock in my country. The main store store told me that maybe could have a 18x20 for this weekend, but now I'm doubtful between this and the Ig radical mp. Any of you guys could compare them both, especially in the power issue? Thanks

^If you're consistently hitting the center, and I mean 'dead-center', the exo3Tour has more inherent pop to it than the IgRadMp, but the RadMp packs a punch for it's weight class. Anything hit outside the center and the IgRadMp has much more response. But power is all based on the player, so I'll stick to the feel aspect of each racquet.

The Prince has a unique feel and flex to it, not everyone's cup of tea. I can't play with it stock, just too 'noodley', for lack of a better word. But with weight added, it becomes a serious weapon and the flex ends up adding a certain level of control, comfort and forgiveness.

The IgRadMp just feels well put together and solid, a nice, crisp feeling with just the right amount of bend. A much more responsive upper hoop when compared to the exo3Tour100 and a 'truer', more predictable string-bed.

Kind of confused about your 'grip question'. Are you talking about the grip itself or the shape of the handle?

The Prince resi-pro is one of the best synthetic grips out there in my opinion. It's firm, true-to-size and perfect for those who want a uniform feel with no bevels. The Head hydrosorb grip is a tad more cushioned and has channels that run underneath the grip to create bevels. Not my cup of tea personally.

As far as the handle shape, they both run small when compared to Wilson, Babolat and many other companies. The Prince handle is more round (closer to wilson and babolat) and has a much more profound buttcap flare, which I end up leveling off a bit by wrapping my og's a certain way.

Head's handle is much more 'rectangular' but not as much as say BorisBecker/Volkl frames tend to be. The buttcap flare is much more to my liking (that's only because I played for years with Head frames), doesn't feel too obstructive when choking down on a forehand or serve.

My game backed up again! Finally. I had the tour restrung with luxilon adrenaline in the mains and head rip control in the crosses at 26kg. I removed the lead at 12, and it was better. It felt a bit stiffer in the top of the racket. The downfall what that I still had to find some depth on my groundstrokes. I put a a gram or more at 3 and 9 and I had more depth when trying it yesterday, so that solves the problem I hope.

But after more or less an hour of hitting, a main string snapped. After 3 weeks! Does anybody have a good recommandation for a multi in the crosses along with luxilon? Or maybe a full poly?

I went about a year ago to demo the 16 x 18 but all they had was the 18 x 20. I've never used an 18 main racket and after hitting on the wall for 5 minutes and hitting a few wimpy serves, I took the demo back. The 16 x 18 I picked up last week. Wow what a difference. I now realize the PK 7G was causing my arm pain. The Exo 16 x 18 fits my spinny game like a glove too.

^If you're consistently hitting the center, and I mean 'dead-center', the exo3Tour has more inherent pop to it than the IgRadMp, but the RadMp packs a punch for it's weight class. Anything hit outside the center and the IgRadMp has much more response. But power is all based on the player, so I'll stick to the feel aspect of each racquet.

The Prince has a unique feel and flex to it, not everyone's cup of tea. I can't play with it stock, just too 'noodley', for lack of a better word. But with weight added, it becomes a serious weapon and the flex ends up adding a certain level of control, comfort and forgiveness.

The IgRadMp just feels well put together and solid, a nice, crisp feeling with just the right amount of bend. A much more responsive upper hoop when compared to the exo3Tour100 and a 'truer', more predictable string-bed.

Kind of confused about your 'grip question'. Are you talking about the grip itself or the shape of the handle?

The Prince resi-pro is one of the best synthetic grips out there in my opinion. It's firm, true-to-size and perfect for those who want a uniform feel with no bevels. The Head hydrosorb grip is a tad more cushioned and has channels that run underneath the grip to create bevels. Not my cup of tea personally.

As far as the handle shape, they both run small when compared to Wilson, Babolat and many other companies. The Prince handle is more round (closer to wilson and babolat) and has a much more profound buttcap flare, which I end up leveling off a bit by wrapping my og's a certain way.

Head's handle is much more 'rectangular' but not as much as say BorisBecker/Volkl frames tend to be. The buttcap flare is much more to my liking (that's only because I played for years with Head frames), doesn't feel too obstructive when choking down on a forehand or serve.

Hope that helps. Good day.

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Thanks for the info!, it helps a lot , oh and with the grip I mean the grip shape. I'm really leaning to the tour, how much and where do you guys would recommend the lead? thanks

^Play with it stock for a while. Then add a little at 12 (1-2grams)... then switch to 3&9 and see what you like better. I've experimented a lot with this frame and decided on something that works for me.

I've got my 18x20's with a leather grips, 2 over grips, 2grams at 12 and 5 grams total at 3&9 (all hidden underneath the ports). 354gr, 6pts HL and strung with BBO @ 53lbs. Works well for me.