For people looking for a solution on the cheap (hoping it doesn't look like I'm advertising):- PSU: PSP 5V 2A PSU, [EUR] or [US]) ~$10- PSU connector, if you don't mind adding a hole to the plug, to switch PSUs and use one with more amps if needed: this one or this one ~$3

Ships any place but will take weeks, so no good if you're in a hurry. But if you're looking for a cheap replacement, and a PSU that *should* take 2 amps without ending up in smoke, that should do. Might even manage to fit the PSU inside the plug if you really want.

My Sheevaplug gave up the ghost 17/06/2011. At first the green lights came on didn't flicker and stayed on. The ethernet port also stayed green. I unplugged it and it was dead next time I plugged it in. I needed it up and running, so opened it up and the output stage cap 1000uF 6.3V 105C was bulging.I when down to Maplin (UK electronics store) and ordered a replacement High Temp Electrolytic 1000uF cap for 44p - could only get 16V but still fitted in the PSU case ok even though it was a little bigger. Literally got it back up and running 10 mins ago. It seems to blink green a few times when first turned on, maybe thats because of the larger cap having a longer charging time.

My Sheevaplug gave up the ghost 17/06/2011. At first the green lights came on didn't flicker and stayed on. The ethernet port also stayed green. I unplugged it and it was dead next time I plugged it in. I needed it up and running, so opened it up and the output stage cap 1000uF 6.3V 105C was bulging.I when down to Maplin (UK electronics store) and ordered a replacement High Temp Electrolytic 1000uF cap for 44p - could only get 16V but still fitted in the PSU case ok even though it was a little bigger. Literally got it back up and running 10 mins ago. It seems to blink green a few times when first turned on, maybe thats because of the larger cap having a longer charging time.

Yeah - it works - but it failed again soon after with component failure. I couldn't believe it. (the charge/discharge cycle of the 16V cap might have caused this)

What I did was order a SWITCHED MODE power supply 5V@2Amps and wired that in, removing the Sheevaplug PSU module. I think it cost about £5-6. Switched mode power supplies have smaller transformer, capacitor's etc... and are hopefully engineered better than the Sheevaplug PSU.

It worked again fine after that. It has just gone down in the past week - but nothing to do with the PSU.

I bought a Sheevaplug a couple of years ago, but have only been using it the past few months. I don't know when it stopped working, but it's no longer reachable through SSH/serial, and the blue LED is no longer lit while the green LED lights up every second or so, along with the the green and yellow LEDs next to the Ethernet plug.

Knowing nothing about electronics, I simply opened the outer case but didn't dare opening the aluminum case because of those warnings from Superpat and SunnyJim about capacitors.

Since the warranty is long gone, NewIT, which sells the SheevaPlug in Europe, simply expects users to buy a new unit.Before I shell out the $120 or so for a new unit + shipping, I was wondering if I could safely open the aluminum case to take a picture to check with you guys, and bring it to an electronics store to check what components I need to change to possibly get it up and running again.

Or is it just too dangerous and I should just get a new one?

Thank you.

PS: I saw J-Tag mentioned a few times. Where is that connector located? Is it the one next to the connector that says "UART" on the PCB?

Its 99% that its due to the Power supply unit. Simply buy a regulated PSU from ebay for a few quid (5v and 2amps) and, with a multimeter and some soldering, you will be able to fix it easily. You can simply take out the old psu and wire up the new. Newit also sell a sheeva PSU module but you have to ask - will it fail again?checkout my name and posts on newit's forum and you will get pics of how to do it.

You just have to wait 9 hrs unplugged if your scared the cap will discharge through you when you open the aluminum case to get at the psu. The whole plug design is crazy as the aluminum is only there to screen the tiny electronics from the psu as its so close together. I have went through trying to repair the capacitor in the orginal PSU, which worked for 6 months or so, and then taking out the entire module and directly wiring a 5v 2A psu (which was not great quality and lasted only 2 years more as it was not UK 240v in but 220v in) and now I got a proper bench psu thinking there were faults in the unit - only to find it worked perfectly when it had 5v regulated connected. I hav finally dug out a LINKSYS ATA 5V 2A psu, and wired that in today. It looks higher quality I hope it lasts. Basically 99% of all sheeva plug problems - erratic behavour, network going down etc.. are going to be down to a failing PSU.

I went through the threads on the subject, and since it requires some knowledge of electronics, which I don't have, I just ordered a new PSU from NewIt, although £10 + £10 is a bit high if it just means replacing one or two caps :-/