If they cut the light sheet metal straps that are about 8 - 9" long and are
black and connect from the crossmember to the frame, then you don't need
them. If they cut the larger rods that are attached to the lower strut and
have a nut threaded on the frame end of them, you'll need them or go to a
tubular lower A arm.

BTW, I picked up a full TCI front suspension kit while in Portland, OR this
past weekend. I decided I just wasn't going to scrounge for this item or
cut and weld the crossmember. Plus, I wanted new brake components. I'll
document the conversion on my website and keep the list posted.

While down there I had the chance to look at a really nice 56 F100 big back
window custom project. It had the drip rail removed and some really nice
radiusing done on the front corners of the door. It has a 460 with a C6 and
a disk brake rear end. The frame had all of the holes filled and was epoxy
painted black. It had a volare clip.

If anyone would like a Mustang II crossmember with power rack and wheels, I
can make a good deal. It would need to be picked up in the Seattle area.
Email me offlist for details or questions. I can email a picture if needed.

Picked up my Mustang II IFS from the boneyard on Fri. The kid that cut it
out
also cut the support rods that attach to the frame behind the xmember. Am I
going to need these rods? I am getting a weld-in xmember.
Thanks

Came with 15", unknown year. Thinking about using them but I'm
uncertain as to whether I can find original looking hubcaps to fit.
Also, would 16" wheels look better and where would I find a decent set
for low money? Opinions appreciated.

> I was given a rear axle from a 78 Dodge one ton dually. My F-3 also has dual
> rear wheels, but the gears are shot. Can the Dodge axle be swapped into my
> truck fairly easily? I figure I may have to relocate the spring perches,
> but
>

That looks like it will leave the driveshaft/U-joint, emergency brake
cables, and shock mounts. I had a Chrysler rear in my 52 F1, and finding the
right U-joint to mate the Ford driveshaft with the rear was impossible, at
least for me. If you have to have the shaft cut, put a Chrysler back end on
it. Otherwise you'll need to find an accurate U-joint reference source to
find the right diameters.
If I recall, the emergency brake cables worked OK, but this was 30
years ago (damn, that's hard to write).
The diameter of the Chrysler rear was bigger than the Ford, so the
shock mount, which went under the rear with the U-bolts through it, didn't
fit well. I made up some half moon shaped spacers of the correct diameters,
but that was a pain. Hopefully someone has come up with a better solution.

I will definitely be there. I made reservations last week for a cabin up
on the mountain. We stayed there last summer and it will sleep 10 people
easily. I am making a family event out of it. My panel will have to stay
home this year but should make it next year. i have the front end torn
down and received my Heidts cross member today. BTW, I am very impressed
with this piece and can't wait to find the time to weld it in!
-Chris
60 panel

I'm now considering which location to use for the master cylinder on my '56
F100 Project.

There are the two obvious locations (under the floor in the stock location
or with a power booster in that location) or a hanging pedal with a power
booster located on the firewall.

It appears to me that the firewall location would interfere with the fender
brace rod on the driver's side and would generally clutter up the the
firewall. But having the pedal hang inside the cab has a nice appearance to
me.

The stock location (with a power booster) is a simple solution, but it has
the brake pedal coming through the floor and accessing the refill of the
master cylinder is somewhat of a challenge.

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