Defective DRs?

I just was restringing my Sadowsky 5-24 with Fat Beams. The B broke past the nut. Took out another Fat Beam B that I had on another bass for a short while, and it broke too in the same location! Both had been crimped at a 90 degree angle before cut. I'm a long time DR user, and I've never had this problem. What's the deal? I hope DR replaces them free of charge!

If it happens once, it's probably a manufacturing defect. If it happens twice, I would start to look elsewhere for the culprit. The chances of both strings having a weak point at exactly the same spot is astronomically small.

Had the same problem with a recent set of low beams. Contacted DR - they are aware of this intermittent problem. If memory serves my feeble mind, seems like DR's response was from "Steve"...no offer of a replacement string.

If it happens once, it's probably a manufacturing defect. If it happens twice, I would start to look elsewhere for the culprit. The chances of both strings having a weak point at exactly the same spot is astronomically small.

Had the same problem with a recent set of low beams. Contacted DR - they are aware of this intermittent problem. If memory serves my feeble mind, seems like DR's response was from "Steve"...no offer of a replacement string.

Was the fat part of the string going around the post. I recall that the DR DDTs were having an issue like that on 34" top loaders.

I have had problems with a Carvin B string not liking the fat part go around the post. I ended up using a 1/2" spacer to extend the ball end on the bridge side after ruining several Carvin B strings.

Seems to be an issue with some string makers trying to make a one size fits all string. If it will go thru body on a 35" scale, you will be wrapping long before the taper on a 34" top loader. And the B string is the most sensitive to this.

Was the fat part of the string going around the post. I recall that the DR DDTs were having an issue like that on 34" top loaders.

I have had problems with a Carvin B string not liking the fat part go around the post. I ended up using a 1/2" spacer to extend the ball end on the bridge side after ruining several Carvin B strings.

Seems to be an issue with some string makers trying to make a one size fits all string. If it will go thru body on a 35" scale, you will be wrapping long before the taper on a 34" top loader. And the B string is the most sensitive to this.

Click to expand...

The string broke past the "fat" part. It steps down twice--it broke on the part in between the narrowest part and the fattest part. I never even finished winding it on the post. In years of DR use, I've never experienced this.

DR customer service rep called me today. They think it was a batch of defective core wire and are making and sending me some replacement sets tomorrow! Hopefully these won't break too. Thank you DR for the excellent customer service!

I just had this same problem with my Fat Beams (MM5-130). The B-string broke on the fattest part as I was winding it. Tried another one and same result. Both sets were purchased together from Musician's Friend. I called DR today and they are sending free replacements. Hopefully, this is not a reoccuring event.

I just got bit by this one too today: MMfatbeams, the .130 broke at the tuner before I even got the last string installed on the bass! I was pissed because I drove 20mi, pay for parking, just to have this happen...and it figures I got the last .130 in this city!!!

So I don't care at this point if they offer replacement string, if the fat part of the string is not supposed to barely curl around the tuner post, then how is the issue resolved? What good would a replacement string do me?

Wow same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. I use DR strings and the E string broke right at the tuning peg, I thought the tuning peg was broken but it was the string. I didn't have a backup bass and I had to play the show with no E string, not fun.