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We had no idea what to expect, having deliberately chosen to visit the most remote and unvisited part of the island. And, although we had come from a small beach resort in the north fg the island, this southern shore remains uninhabited until today. Getting ashore was tough: When I finally escaped the sea, I was amazed to be in one piece.

Marina, scrambling ashore, looked equally relieved. Ahead of us was a steep, crumbling slope of slippery rotten vegetation and loose boulders. It was Swinger bars ft Sao Tome And Principe when we were about 30 metres up that I began to notice the birds. They were watching us. There were several little finches perched on branches not two metres away, and a golden-winged weaver noisily clattering about on a palm leaf.

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None of them is afraid. And it was true: I suddenly had the most extraordinary surge of excitement and adrenaline. It was like the world was new and we had come stumbling from a time machine and discovered it. Just 13, tourists a year visit and only one person knew where it was, a naturalist, who expressed extreme envy. I did my homework.

These two Swingdr islands had never been part of the mainland, nor had they been inhabited until the Portuguese arrived. Everything revolved around the plantations.

Each had a big house for the manager, opposite some simple quarters for workers. Between them would be a few drying sheds and storage rooms.

Eventually the slave workforce became bonded labour, often recruited from Cape Verde. After that Pincipe plantations slowly declined into quiet villages, occupied mostly by people surviving by subsistence agriculture. It was the conversion of one of those large plantation houses into a new hotel that had brought me to the island.

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A third luxury property, Praia Sundy, opens in December. Working with the government, he has invested millions in infrastructure and hopes to attract visitors who are interested f in people and wildlife than in lazing on beaches. The emphasis is on contributing to the community; local staff are trained on site and guests are encouraged to visit local families or help on conservation projects.

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