Questions regarding my first string job

Just did my first string job on my Wilson 6.1 Team 16x18 using a Klippermate. The string was 44 feet to begin with, I cut it in half and did mains, then crosses. But I noticed I had much strings left over. How much strings is needed for a racquet like that? (If I buy a reel, I want to know how much of it to cut, to avoid being wasteful).

Also, the knots. Does it matte if the string coming out of the knot touches the frame of my racquet? Or should I cut it further up the string so it doesn't make contact?

Klippermate puts their suggested lengths in their pattern sheets, as well as on-line. With a reel, if you find their suggested lengths too long, you'd measure the leftover and subtract some of it from the length you used, but be sure to leave enough to reach the tensioner comfortably on the last pull.

You can use one of the clamps to make a 'bridge' if you come up a little short: The string exiting the racket goes in one side of the clamp and another scrap piece of string goes in each side of the clamp, U-shaped with the long open tails pointing towards the tensioner. Both ends of the u-shaped piece go in the tensioner. This effectively creates a longer tail for that last pull... Starting clamps work better for this.

It's fine if the tail of the knot contacts the frame, in fact, I find it preferable.

Just did my first string job on my Wilson 6.1 Team 16x18 using a Klippermate. The string was 44 feet to begin with, I cut it in half and did mains, then crosses. But I noticed I had much strings left over. How much strings is needed for a racquet like that? (If I buy a reel, I want to know how much of it to cut, to avoid being wasteful).

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First off, congratulations and welcome to the club.

Since you've got a current frame, you should be able to find the stringing pattern for it on Wilson's web site. Older racquets aren't always listed by their manufacturer's, but Klipper's site has a pretty good listing.

The stringing pattern will suggest lengths of string to use, but the numbers vary for different stringing machine setups. The most accurate way is to start with the recommended lengths and look at how much is hanging out past the string gripper on your last pull. If you finish the mains and you've got an extra foot on each side beyond what you need to comfortably get the string in the gripper, you can safely subtract 18" from the length you need for your mains (or the full two feet if you're feeling bold).

So last night I went to play with my racquet that I had strung the previous night. I noticed I made a mistake when I was putting my silencer (vib damp.) on the last cross. The last cross and the cross above that - are alternating together. What difference if any will this make? Should I rip out the strings and restring? Or should I play through it?

I generally go through strings in 2-3 hours, if they are non kevlar, and this is non-kevlar.

Play with it. The crosses may bow slightly where not weaved properly, but it won't hurt the racquet. Do note, that because the stringbed is not matcing the defintion in the rules of tennis (USTA, ITF), it wouldn't be a "legal" racquet for tournament play. You most likely won't notice anything, especially with the mistake that far down the stringbed.

Just did my first string job on my Wilson 6.1 Team 16x18 using a Klippermate. The string was 44 feet to begin with, I cut it in half and did mains, then crosses. But I noticed I had much strings left over. How much strings is needed for a racquet like that? (If I buy a reel, I want to know how much of it to cut, to avoid being wasteful).

You should have measured how much you had left for (2-piece) the mains and crosses (or in the case of a 1-pc., the remainder). Strings will vary by their properties in regard to how much you might need. String that "stretches," less. String that is "stiff," more. Generally, a full reel is 660 feet (sometimes you see half reels or 720'). Do your math. 44' (Are you sure?) minus the left-over amount after cutting the knot tails after tying off, plus remember to add in the amount you needed to tension and tie the knots before you cut the extra after tying the knots=string needed for that job on that machine. Divide that number (feet) into 660 feet (for example)=# stringjobs per reel. You'll always need that extra because again, you need to be able to tension and tie off.

Also, the knots. Does it matte if the string coming out of the knot touches the frame of my racquet? Or should I cut it further up the string so it doesn't make contact?