Spanish cuisine is a melting-pot of cultures, flavours and ingredients: Greek and Roman, Jewish, Moorish and Middle Eastern. It has been enriched by its climate, geology and spectacular topography, which have encouraged a variety of regional food traditions and ‘Cocinas’, such as Basque, Galician, Castilian, Andalusian and Catalan. It has been shaped by the country’s complex history, as foreign occupations brought religious and cultural influences that determined what people ate and still eat. It has continually evolved with the arrival of new ideas and foodstuffs from Italy, France and the Americas, including cocoa, potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and chilli peppers.

This is the first book in English to trace the history of the food of Spain from antiquity to the present day. From the use of pork fat and olive oil to the Spanish passion for aubergines and pomegranates, María José Sevilla skilfully weaves together the history of Spanish cuisine, the circumstances affecting its development and characteristics, and the country’s changing relationship to food and cookery.

‘Take a deep dive into Spanish cuisine from prehistory to Ferran Adrià . . . [this] illustrated book is a dense, scholarly survey that starts with prehistory some 80,000 years ago. It traces the contributions to the Spanish table by ancient Rome; Moorish, Christian and Jewish cultures; European royalty; and foods of the New World. The effects of social and political change, years of war and the rise of the influential Spanish chefs of today are covered, as are ingredients like olives, anchovies and chocolate; markets; dishes like cocido; and time-honored utensils. There’s a quick survey of food across Spain, region by region.’ — Florence Fabricant, The New York Times

‘Like other works of art, dishes document culture. María José Sevilla shows us that the best way to enjoy Spanish history is by eating Spanish food, and that the best way to enjoy the food is by reading her account of the history. ¡Buen provecho!’ — Felipe Fernández-Armesto, author of Food: A History

‘An epic and very readable history of Spanish food culture from Palaeolithic times to the present day. Very interesting.’ — Dr Lara Anderson, Convenor of Spanish and Latin American Studies, University of Melbourne

‘Take a deep dive into Spanish cuisine from prehistory to Ferran Adrià . . . [this] illustrated book is a dense, scholarly survey that starts with prehistory some 80,000 years ago. It traces the contributions to the Spanish table by ancient Rome; Moorish, Christian and Jewish cultures; European royalty; and foods of the New World. The effects of social and political change, years of war and the rise of the influential Spanish chefs of today are covered, as are ingredients like olives, anchovies and chocolate; markets; dishes like cocido; and time-honored utensils. There’s a quick survey of food across Spain, region by region.’ — Florence Fabricant, The New York Times

‘Like other works of art, dishes document culture. María José Sevilla shows us that the best way to enjoy Spanish history is by eating Spanish food, and that the best way to enjoy the food is by reading her account of the history. ¡Buen provecho!’ — Felipe Fernández-Armesto, author of Food: A History

‘An epic and very readable history of Spanish food culture from Palaeolithic times to the present day. Very interesting.’ — Dr Lara Anderson, Convenor of Spanish and Latin American Studies, University of Melbourne

María José Sevilla's previous books include Life and Food in the Basque Country (1989), Spain on a Plate (1992) and Mediterranean Flavours (1995). She lives in London, UK, and the Sierra de Aracena in Andalusia, Spain.

Introduction

one A Land at the Edge of the Unknowntwo Moors, Jews and Christiansthree Life in the Castlefour A Golden Agefive Madrid, Versailles, Naples and, Best of All, Chocolatesix Politics at the Tableseven Hunger, Hope and Successeight The Cocinas of Spain