A return to nature: Vodka celebrates terroir and character

Follow the author of this article

Follow the topics within this article

All vodka tastes the same, right? Certainly, that was the received wisdom towards the end of the 20th century. Why else would companies feel compelled to adulterate the stuff with teeth-jangling toffee aroma-chemicals. Or indeed donut, cereal milk, wedding cake, bubble gum and, wait for it, electricity…. It was all shocking stuff.

The Nineties was a flavour fiasco for vodka, and as I watched it unfurl while sipping an early naughties gin martini instead, I suspected vodka had raised the white flag in the integrity battle. But even back then, I retained the hope that quality vodka might find its way back.

Pre-20th century, vodka had character and flavour, it wasn’t until the American regulations demanded the distillate be "be without distinctive character, aroma, taste or colour", that we witnessed the insipid flavourless or insane flavoured incarnations. But as we headed into the new millennium, the changing demands from drinkers suggested it could re-establish itself as a discerning distillate. And now it seems the spirit is ready to re-affirm its base character, to find the flavour not in synthetics, but in the ingredient that it is distilled from.

Vodka doesn’t "all taste the same". Far from it; the tide is turning towards an artisanal and luxury spirit. Finding flavour in the base ingredient is important because vodka can be made from any fermentable, and what should set it apart is agricultural element at its heart. Whether its potatoes, grains such as rye and barley, or even the use of grapes, each vodka needs to make a case for itself when it comes to taste.

In the case of Belvedere this is rye and the vodka brand recently championed flavour in emphatic style with a lavish launch of Smogóry Forest and Lake Bartężek vodkas. During the event the vodka company showcased each variant to hundreds of drinks experts and media, and rightly celebrated terroir in the spirit.

Belvedere’s new variants are christened after the regions where the rye grows, and crucially they are crafted to capture the distinctive essence of their respective agriculture. Terroir has been critical in the development of these products, each grain variant at the base of the spirit being grown in a starkly different environment to provide a difference that is clearly detected on the palate in the final distillates. Two vodkas, made the same way using the same ingredient harvested from different regions, and both provide varied aroma and taste.

Belvedere was by no means the first to explore terroir in vodka and there is a collection of new pioneers in the field, including the excellent Vestal vodka based in London. These brands are directing the conversation back to character in this spirit and should ensure more will follow. Here are the top three I have tasted in recent months:

Vestal

Vestal vodka

Using potatoes from Poland the Vestal Blended takes quality crops of Asterix, Vineta and Lord spuds and delivers a delicious dose of vodka character. This is merely the start of the Vestal experience though, explore further and you can dip into a host of vintages that all express extraordinary flavour variety. Vestal Blended £33.95, Whisky Exchange

Belvedere

Belvedere Smogóry Forest and Belvedere Lake Bartężek

Smogóry Forest: The rye is grown behind a woodland shield, protecting the crop from harsh external influences while also imparting an earthy and woody nose. On the palate it has a mellow, almost honeyed quality, with a hint of sweet smoke. Belvedere Smogóry Forest, £49 Clos19.com

Lake Bartężek: Harsh and exposed winter climes in this region put more stress on the rye, which in turn delivers a lighter and more delicate grain and spirit. The vodka is notably fresher than Smogóry Forest, with a cut-grass aroma, and a clean, minty and crisp finish. Belvedere Lake Bartężek, £49 Clos19.com

Absolut Elyx

Absolut Elyx

A vodka that has harnessed the elements of the wheat at its base, with a hint of nut and fudge on the nose. The flavour arrives first on the tongue before giving a full and rounded mouth feel. It’s rich and great for sipping. Absolut Elyx, £35.75, Whisky Exchange

Tom Sandham and fellow Thinking Drinker Ben McFarland are currently on tour with their drinking show and will sample vodka with the audience when they discuss ‘Booze on the Battlefield’ in their Sessions show at the Museum of Comedy in London’s West End on November 14 – all details on their site: thinkingdrinkers .com