Uninvited Guest: The Lake Country House

By Max Davidson, Daily Mail

Last updated at 11:57 26 February 2003

We were already in a good mood before we arrived. The drive along the Wye Valley must be one of the most beautiful in Britain: not exactly a spin of the wheel from London, but worth the effort many times over.

Lambs were gambolling in the fields at the side of the road as we drove through one of those Welsh villages with unpronounceable names and sighted our destination perched on a hillside.

The Lake Country House is in the Victorian mock-Tudor style, flanked by impressive trees. The hospitality is even more impressive.

A Jeeves-like figure glided from the house, took our bags and led us to our room. 'Nice weather you have got for us,' I ventured. 'Yes, sir. We endeavour to give satisfaction. Cocktails are at 7.30 and we dine at 8. Will that be all, sir?'

He was in his element before dinner, wearing the full regalia of an Edwardian butler and serving cocktails and canapes like a bishop dispensing alms to the poor.

The great thing about old-fashioned service is that it goes hand in hand with quality. If our expectations were high as we quaffed cocktails in front of the log fire, they were even higher as we took our place in the dining room, daintily furnished, but run on military lines.

Staff came and went on perfect cue, and if dinner was not the hautest of haute cuisine, every dish was flawless. An excellent langoustine bisque was followed by tarte tatin of red onion with grilled chicken livers and an outstanding tenderloin of pork.

There was none of the pomposity endemic in English country house hotels. Even without the countryside, it would make the perfect weekend retreat.

Logs crackle in old hearths and there is a ubiquitous smell of wet boots and freshly baked scones.

At breakfast, we were treated to Welsh lava bread, along with a perfectly cooked breakfast.

As our Jeeves friend might have put it, they endeavour to give satisfaction at The Lake.

In brief...

Location: Llangammarch Wells, Powys

Ambience: Substantial Victorian country house in dreamy grounds.

Clientele: Predominantly couples, from young lovers to seventysomethings.

Food: Consistently excellent.

Bottom line: Double B&B at The Lake Country House (01591 620202) from £160 per night. Special short-break deals available.