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Water leak thru prop shaft

Well it was 550 for them to just install a new one. I actually already pulled off the v drive and everything. I just wanted them to install it and make sure it was aligned correctly so I'm guessing it would have been double that if I had them do the whole thing. I bought the 150 dollar part myself.

This is why I value this forum so much. It's ridiculous what these places charge. The boat was literally done in 3 hours.

Well it was 550 for them to just install a new one. I actually already pulled off the v drive and everything. I just wanted them to install it and make sure it was aligned correctly so I'm guessing it would have been double that if I had them do the whole thing. I bought the 150 dollar part myself.

This is why I value this forum so much. It's ridiculous what these places charge. The boat was literally done in 3 hours.

I just cant see my dealer charging that much for that repair. I have had much more work done for much less cost on my boat at my dealer

edit: my dealer just quoted me far less than 750 for the part and labor

Water leak thru prop shaft

Converted my 05 LSV to dripless. Over 400 hours later and still no drips. Tight working area but no need to remove the v-drive. I read where some installations fed the seal water supply off the manifold cooling line and had problems with the hot water causing the seal to expand and leak.

Thanks. I'll try to tighten first. I'm torn between the dripless and the regular now. I'll wait till after Memorial Day since we are taking our almost 2 year old camping for the first time. He loves the boat. Lets just hope he loves a tent. Lol

Converted my 05 LSV to dripless. Over 400 hours later and still no drips. Tight working area but no need to remove the v-drive. I read where some installations fed the seal water supply off the manifold cooling line and had problems with the hot water causing the seal to expand and leak.

There are some good points in this thread. The vdrive does not have to be removed to install a dripless seal. What some mechanics say is aligned is not. They may be one of the most knowledgeable mechanics but if they consider a .005 unsymmetrical or multiposition tolerance as aligned there is a problem. Manuals state a symmetrical or single position .002 max tolerance so I fail to see why anything greater is acceptable. The seal on the dripless seals is fragile and can be nicked if not carefully installed. Plus a cool water supply is needed as well. They are great when working but a pain if not installed correctly. The packed seals are great as well and if installed well should yield a drop a minute or less, even they can be close to dripless. I would take it back if I spent 750 and it dripped. Something is wrong and wrong things usually don't get better. There is no breaking on the dripless seals they just get worse as you have already experienced.

so im pretty sure my dripless shaft cooling line comes from the hoses between the exhaust manifolds, it sounds like yall are saying this is wrong so here are my two questions, why would they design it wrong from the factory and where should it be tied in at?

Water leak thru prop shaft

Originally Posted by rdlangston13

so im pretty sure my dripless shaft cooling line comes from the hoses between the exhaust manifolds, it sounds like yall are saying this is wrong so here are my two questions, why would they design it wrong from the factory and where should it be tied in at?

Theoretically the cooking line would tie into the raw water hose.

2010 Moomba XLV
340hp cat
Gravity 3, wake plate
Rad-a-cage

I have a love for ballast and large wakes.
1100 v-drive lockers
1180 under the playpen
+ lead and a collection of other ballast bags