"I'm happy to say my visits showed that the new Nopalito is every bit as good as its predecessor. Plus, from what I tasted last weekend at the original, that location is holding up just fine, too." Pictured: Chefs Jose Ramos (left) and Gonzalo Guzman of Nopalito

"The posole ($12), a favorite at the original restaurant, is just as good here. But I might have found a soup that's even better - caldo tlalpeno ($10), a rich chicken broth filled with chunks of carrots, garbanzo, florets of cauliflower, green and yellow wax beans and chunks of queso fresco."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"The posole ($12), a favorite at the original restaurant, is...

&quot;The posole ($12), a favorite at the original restaurant,... Photo-3692413.51879 - SFGate

Image 4 of 18

"There are also different dishes, including trout ($16.50) on a bed of pumpkin seed puree that also coats the Christmas lima beans underneath. The fish is supple, the beans fleshy and the sauce spicy from serrano chiles. A dynamic triad."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"There are also different dishes, including trout ($16.50) on...

&quot;There are also different dishes, including trout ($16.50)... Photo-3692414.51879 - SFGate

Image 5 of 18

"In one of my three visits, chefs Jose Ramos and Gonzalo Guzman made a tostada with a crisp tortilla ($8) piled with marinated albacore tuna from Bolinas, guacamole, onions, jalapenos, a haystack of shredded cabbage and a bright red drizzle of salsa estilo bufalo. It may well become my favorite way to enjoy this fish."

"Corn was on the menu in several guises. It was toasted to brown the kernels, then cut from the cob ($6) and enhanced with cotija cheese, cream and a kick of chile, lime and pico de gallo."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"Corn was on the menu in several guises. It was toasted to...

&quot;Corn was on the menu in several guises. It was toasted to... Photo-3692416.51879 - SFGate

Image 7 of 18

"Ceviche verde ($12) is another winning combination, made with local fish, calamari and avocado infused with lime, tomatillo and jalapeno; it's served with thick, dark brown tortilla chips that have a lot more substance than most and make a solid platform for scooping up the mixture."

The Calamari Ceviche at Nopalito in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Saturday, October 27th, 2012.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

The Calamari Ceviche at Nopalito in San Francisco, Calif., is seen...

The Calamari Ceviche at Nopalito in San Francisco, Calif., is seen... Photo-3692418.51879 - SFGate

Image 9 of 18

"Enchiladas ($14.50) consist of a tomato and jalapeno mash with crushed shrimp, a rich sauce of guajillo chile and a sprinkling of cabbage, shaved onions, black beans and pickled jalapeno to round out the complex flavor layers."

"And at both places I have to train myself to try something beyond the carnitas ($15.50), where the pork is subtly flavored with cinnamon, beer, orange and bay leaf, served with a cool and slightly spicy cabbage salad and tortillas so you can fold everything together and eat it like a soft taco."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"And at both places I have to train myself to try something...

&quot;And at both places I have to train myself to try... Photo-3692420.51879 - SFGate

Image 11 of 18

"And you can't beat the mole poblano ($14.50), which tastes as if the meat was brined before being roasted and served with rice on a rich sauce made from toasted chiles, cinnamon, ground nuts and chocolate."

"The new restaurant is larger than the original, with about 75 seats, including the patio in back..."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"The new restaurant is larger than the original, with about 75...

&quot;The new restaurant is larger than the original, with... Photo-3692422.51879 - SFGate

Image 13 of 18

"... Diners walk down a long hall-like passage with windows that wrap around to Ninth Avenue. They can be opened on warmer days to bring in an urban feel. When they're closed, the open kitchen and bar, with green glass globe lights dangling from the ceiling, add excitement."

"Service also supports that feel. It's professional and has a fine-dining quality that belies the casual interior. The staff is quick to check back, wipe down tables between courses, refold napkins when people leave the table and change flatware periodically."