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Dammit Miscue, you are so damn right, I guess thats why my J&J didnt perform that well, it didnt have any logos on the stainless section =).

The way I measured the control bore length was kinda ghetto. I used a piece of paper and rolled it into a tube and placed it in the barrel. I then let the slack out then taped the paper roll. Using a lamp (or any light source) I pushed the paper roll down the barrel until I saw the edge of the paper reach the inner edge where the control bore ends and the tip bore begins. I then marked with a pen on the paper the length. Like I said, kinda ghetto, but worked none the less.

All I know is, Im gonna be putting alot of DYE stickers on my barrel now, so the whole barrel will have an effective length.

OK, this has been some great information, although there does seem to actually be two conversations here, one of efficiency, and one of accuracy. I think it's amazing that T.K. & AGD went to the lengths they did to provide us with good information.

For me, I would like to hear recommendations for one piece barrels. My DYE 14' is worthless once I break paint in it (despite mad cleaning, paint seems to love hiding in the spot where the pieces meet). So I've been looking at the one piece DYE SS or ultralite. Anyone have recommendations for me?

I'm tired of the Cockheads at my field saying 'Mags have no range or accuracy

Notice ohw everyone here is saying they are having great performance with their barrel of preference. Whether its a SmartParts, DYE, JT, CP, POS, One Piece, two piece, 10 inch, 18 inch... the point, if the barrel is high quality along with a high quality paint with a right match, the shot will have a high quality result.

The DYE Boomstick is the choice of majority of the Pro players out there for one main reason, because its the Best? No, its because they are the ones sponsoring the most teams, and in effect, this creates a false conception that DYE barrels are the best.

A barrel is a piece of metal tubing with *purty* millings and colors. It has a smooth inside where the ball seals and is forced out with pressure. About maybe more than 90% of the barrels out there accomplish this, so.... take your pick.

Hope this will end this discussion. BTW, I traded my 12" Boomy (0.686) for a 14" Boomy (0.688). My old Boomy was scratched up a bit and the bore seemed a little small for the paint and the humidity here in Hawaii. I dont like the long length, but atleast the bore size will suit me better but look kinda rediculously long on ly Micromag. Oh well...

Hyper you are 100% correct about the Dye sponsership, I said the same thing at PBNation the other day. From what I hear....try spraying the inside of the barrel with rain X. Thats what someone told me to do for less breakage. ArmorAll may work as well. Im sure that the velocity will go up as well but as it wears away, it may decrease some as well.

I've shot both and find a one piece barrel (if of the same quality as the two piece) will be more accurate than a one piece. Usually your two piece barrels are a higher quality thus the expensive pricetag. However, if you take the same quality barrel that is one piece without the diameter change I think you will find as I have that the one piece is more consistant.

The barrels in my test were: boomstick, Dye ss of same length, dye ultralight and freek.

The freek will give you that great paint/barrel match thus greater accuracy. But if that same match is put on the ultralight or ss barrel that is one piece it will out perform the freek or the boomstick, especially on a mag.

as a matter of fact, i had a 5 inch barrel on my mag. non ported, brass, smallest bore size ive EVER seen. that baby shot out diablo blaze like you wouldnt believe at the local field. it was shooting as well as a DYE stainless, All-American, even a freak. so why not pay 40$ for a loud, short bras barrel, rather than 250$ for a freak? shot the same? if i can hit the guy, who cares if he hears me?