Calcutta became Kolkata in 2001. A name so embedded in history and literature is now disconnected from the modern world - the new name an orphan with no past and only a future (probably the intention). Calcutta has a history - as the seat of British Power and of unbearable urban poverty. For now, the old Calcutta still exists; denser, grittier, much more urbanized than the cities of Rajasthan we saw last year, the inner calm so prevalent there less visible in the faces here.