Saturday, August 6, 2011

Part of living like local Venetians obviously means cooking your own food. And that is really easy if you go to Rialto fish market in the morning, buy the freshes vongole you can get (just 9 EUR for a huge bag of vongole which are enough for 6 people), grab Jamie’s recipe for spaghetti vongole and cook up a storm.

I adapted the recipe a bit, because I didn’t want the herbs and spices to overpower the delicate taste of the vongole. So here is my version of Jamie’s recipe

You need:

o2kg vongole

oHalf a bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley

o2 cloves of garlic

o10 cherry tomatoes

o250ml white wine

o400g spaghetti

osalt and pepper

oolive oil

I found the described cooking action quite stressful, since everything seems to happen at the same time. Therefore I tried to spread out the actions a bit. Not the most time-efficient way of doing it, I admit, but hey you are on holiday and should be able to drink a glass of white while you are in the kitchen. Or at least that is my cooking philosophy ;-) So my method of cooking follows Jamie’s recipe but not necessarily in the given order.

You do:

oClams were, and still are, available in Venice by the boatload. So much so that they’re even considered peasant food. Although this recipe originates from Venice, it’s so delicious that it’s now become a classic Italian dish. People can be picky about whether or not it should be made with or without tomatoes, but personally I like the subtle colour and sweetness they add to the dish. The most important thing about it is timing everything so you get perfectly steamed clams and al dente pasta. Once you’ve made it a couple of times your intuition will kick in and you’ll be able to make it quickly and perfectly every time.Put a pan of water on to boil. While that’s happening, sort through your cleaned clams and if there are any that aren’t tightly closed, give them a sharp tap. If they don’t close, throw them away. Put a large pan with a lid on a high heat and let it heat up. Finely slice the parsley stalks, then put them to one side and roughly chop the leaves. Peel and chop the garlic, quarter the tomatoes and get your wine ready.Add the pasta to the boiling water with a good pinch of salt and cook according to packet instructions until al dente. About 5 minutes before your pasta is ready, get ready to start cooking – you'll have to be quick about this, so no mucking about! Put 4 generous lugs of extra virgin olive oil into the hot pan and add the garlic, parsley stalks and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Crumble in the dried chilli and add the chopped tomatoes. Stir everything around constantly and just as the garlic starts to colour, tip in the clams and pour in the wine. It will splutter and steam, so give everything a good shake and put the lid on the pan. After about 3 or 4 minutes the clams will start to open, so keep shuffling the pan around until all of them have opened. Take the pan off the heat. Get rid of any clams that haven't opened.By now your pasta should be just about perfect. Drain and add to the pan of clams along with the parsley leaves and an extra drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Stir or toss for a further minute or two to let the beautiful seashore juices from the clams be absorbed into the pasta. Serve right away. No sane Italian would eat this dish without some fresh hunks of bread to mop up the juices. Beautiful!P.S. The first time you make this it will be good, but you might find things don't come together exactly at the right time. But don't worry, this dish is all about confidence and the more you make this, the more you'll find the pasta and clams are ready and perfect at the same time. And then it will be great!• from Jamie does... SSSSort through your cleaned clams and if there are any that aren’t tightly closed, give them a sharp tap. If they don’t close, throw them away.

oFinely slice the parsley stalks, then put them to one side and roughly chop the leaves. Peel and chop the garlic, quarter the tomatoes and get your wine ready.

oPut a pan of water on to boil.

oPut a large pan with a lid on a high heat and let it heat up.

oAdd the pasta to the boiling water with a good pinch of salt and cook according to packet instructions until al dente. About 5 minutes before your pasta is ready, get ready to start cooking!

oPut 4 generous lugs of extra virgin olive oil into the hot pan and add the garlic, parsley stalks and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Crumble in the dried chilli and add the chopped tomatoes. Stir everything around constantly and just as the garlic starts to colour, tip in the clams and pour in the wine. It will splutter and steam, so give everything a good shake and put the lid on the pan. After about 3 or 4 minutes the clams will start to open, so keep shuffling the pan around until all of them have opened. Take the pan off the heat. Get rid of any clams that haven't opened.

oBy now your pasta should be just about perfect. Drain and add to the pan of clams along with the parsley leaves and an extra drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Stir or toss for a further minute or two to let the beautiful seashore juices from the clams be absorbed into the pasta. Serve right away.

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

After two days of heavy rain the venetians prepared for aqua alta – the rising of the water that causes floodings all over Venice. Most doors have a special fixtures in which wooden panels can be inserted to keep the water out of the ground floor.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

I know when you think about Venice and boats, you think about gondola straight away. But in a city build on the water there are many more kinds of boats. And if you try to live the life of a true Venetian there are other boats which are much more relevant and important to you.

... because what would you do without these boats. Carry everything on your back or on one of the various sack barrows (but they are of limited use with all the bridges and their steps, I tell you, after having carried my little one in her buggy over a million Venetian bridges ;-)))

Monday, August 1, 2011

I am back! It is sad (for me) but true. Back to work. Back to rainy weather. BUT

I have taken a bit of Italy with me. A bit of Italian cuisine. A bit of Italian laissez faire. I hope it will last a while in my Berlin everyday life ;-)

I have also brought back some souvenirs for you. Don’t worry no Carnival masks! No Murano glass. No fake Gucci bags. No gondola lamps.

Just a few photos I want to share with you over the next couple of days. To keep the Italian dolce vita alive. And to show you a few ‘different’ sides of Venice. If you live in an apartment there and try to avoid the tourist crowds, you can find amazing and truly beautiful things.

But first my accommodation recommendation. An apartment right in the centre, very close to Piazza San Marco. The house looks pretty run-down, like most buildings in Venice. The courtyard isn’t too inviting and the stairway just looks ‘brutto’ (according to the lovely owner of the apartment), but the apartment itself is recently renovated and furnished practically and beautifully with Ikea. Plus it has a working air condition which is indispensable in the hotter months (June, July and August).

Entrance to the hidden doorway leading to the courtyard (between two restaurants with wonderful food – in case you don’t feel like cooking at home)

One of the two bedrooms – modern refurbished but with the wonderful old timber beams

View from the window to the beautiful palazzo on the other side of the Campo