You can read the full progress from scratch below >>>>>>>>>>>>>-------------------------------------------I am new to all of this BYOAC stuff, loving it so far, started designing my plans a few weeks ago, redesigned a few times to make sure, and spent about 4 "full" days on building so far (a few hours here and there when I find the time). I will be posting new pics every time I make progress.. this is how it works it seems I am happy to be a part of this amazing community! THANK YOU for all the great wiki content, discussions, information, etc - a GOLD MINE when planning such a project especially the first time for me.

Note that I am also new to woodworking ... I am a product designer so the whole plans/modeling thing was not a problem. The cutting/building part is something I am learning as I go about. Thanks in advance for looking at the pictures and supporting me as I go

GOALS. elegant and minimal. small CP ... not the big box "MK Style", more like the old (to me) profiles with the CP embedded in the cabinet's sides - that's my preference anyway

I think I should update the BYOAC wiki... It seems to have been written BEFORE google bought sketchup and released a fully functional and unlimited FREE version... the only limitation it has is export/import from/to CAD applications... NOT a limitation to cabinet building at all

I have been using Sketchup for years... since around V1.Right now I am just using the free version google recently released.

I highly recommend it, and would not be able to do any of this if I didn't have Sketchup.

. image of the ARTIFACT cabinet. instructions (switch list, system, exit and select game). marquee of selected game. video of selected game (specially re-encoded format + bitrate to optimize performance in MALA). simple and to the point, easy to read and use

NOT final "look", but functionally it's what I want. I'll tweak colors/look later.

On your control panel, are you planning on adding coin inputs or pause. Some hidden coin buttons are really useful as well as a pause button.

There will be a coin door and I'll hook up the Coin Return buttons to credits 1 and 2... IF I can find a small / compact solution for this (I don't need a full coin door/bucket/mech... just the coin return buttons any idea of what product / kind of coin door I should look for?)

I am using a Bluetooth Keyboard + Mouse combo for this cabinet, so going to the mala menu / going to windows / etc is SUPER easy just by grabbing the wireless mouse and right-clicking. I really like this bluetooth thing ... no drawer, less cables, less to worry about. Used on occasions to tweak settings and such.

I found a small simple coin door to use on my driving cabinet since there was not a lot of room for a bigger normal sized one. The picture looks crappy, but you can see the size to get an idea. My memory is failing me and I am not home at the moment, so I will say that the door is about 10 inch tall and 7 inch wide. I could be wrong though, but it is small and nice (and looks much better than the picture shows)

How about some egyptian theme where you have an arcade machine in the center instead of King Tuts image (see link). The machine in the center of the marquee might look cool using the color scheme in the image to give it that 'Artifact' look. Just an idea.

The first silver looking marquee is very hard to read for me. I believe it would look alot better if the actual letters were tilted about 45degrees towards to person viewing it rather than have the letters facing almost completely upwards. Just a comment, feel free to ignore it of course.

The first silver looking marquee is very hard to read for me. I believe it would look alot better if the actual letters were tilted about 45degrees towards to person viewing it rather than have the letters facing almost completely upwards. Just a comment, feel free to ignore it of course.

Yep indeed you are correct it's not 100% obvious/communicative... it's an homage to that game... Can't remember the name... "Block Something" ... this font is after that marquee I believe (BTW I did not create the font).

To me it's part of the "cheesy" side of this project / 80's logos .................... :-)

I like the "feel" of this one, but I am definitely on the early stages here, and will create several iterations.

BYOAC rules! You guys rule. Thank you for the support and input.I have a couple of questions...

#1 - OK... regarding casters / feet ... what do you suggest I use?

I don't want the plywood to explode everytime I drag the cabinet a few inches here or there...I am not planning to move it around often, but it seems natural to at least screw some (wide) rubber feet under it.

#1 - Speakers-wise

The 27" SONY Trinitron as very good sound already... it's all hooked up, and believe it or not sounds just fine thru the plexi-glass and bezel (!)... I am contemplating either:. taking apart the TV to take out and extend the existing TV speakers and reposition "where they should be" under the marquee (jigsaw "lines" slots, etc). (or) plugging some cheap PC Speakers to the PC (and decase the volume knob, speakers, jigsaw speaker line openings, etc). (or) leaving it as it is and just use the TV remote to control the volume

The third solution is of course the easiest (no work at all) ... I am on the fence on this one!!! would this be a "proper" arcade cabinet with the TV speakers behind the plexi? (sounds weird... but it sounds OK!!)

I am new to all of this BYOAC stuff, loving it so far, started designing my plans a few weeks ago, redesigned a few times to make sure, and spent about 4 "full" days on building so far (a few hours here and there when I find the time).... a LOT more coming up in the next few days! STAY TUNED!

TV "snug" on my frame; dedicated computer; bluetooth receptor (mouse/kb/anything bluetooth); power supply outlet(I plan to wire up a switch to power up the cab + install a female computer power outlet to easily remove the power cable when transporting)

Profile detials of CP / screen / marquee area ... look at these curves I got the T-Molding in the mail, but I need to buy a 1/16" slot cutting bit still... I imagine that I'll install the molding AFTER I stain and finish the cabinet

Marquee box close-up - I'll definitely add some screws on this tube light unit ... Velcro is great, but does NOT hold "flat".Although I did make a wood surface all around the marquee opening, I am going to order "proper" marquee retainers, and won't really need the side surfaces.

Shot of CP top ... 28" x 8 1/2"

Under the CP ... this board is held using VELCRO strips for easy access. 2 pics of it (closed, opened).Open, this gives me about 8 x 28 inches of space to troubleshoot CP connections

One more "overview" shot of the cab, with bezel, plexiglass in place. BTW I used velcro for the plexi-glass, but I plan to add a thin plywood strip behind the top, across, to support it even more snug/flat... this Velcro stuff doesn't hold evenly.

I am thinking of shortening the depth of the cab... it's a whopping 38" right now and I could take out ~3" by cutting the back "straight" (see the pointy part in the far back of the side) ... I'm a bit torn on this one, as I like the current dramatic retro look (again, to "me"). Since this is going in the family den, I don't want the cab to be too deep.

I saw a beautiful SNK MVS NEO GEO cab the other day ... it made me want to stain my cab all red (I used nice birch plywood though, so it wouldn't be 100% opaque ... show the wood grain as well as being close to this red, if that's possible) ... the room where the cab is going is already red-ish, so I need to make sure it looks okay there

I don't want the plywood to explode everytime I drag the cabinet a few inches here or there...I am not planning to move it around often, but it seems natural to at least screw some (wide) rubber feet under it.

I would at least put on some heavy duty leg levelers if you didn't want to use castors. The you would at least have nice level points to use some easy-movers or something if you needed to (I imagine you cab is going to be heavy!).

How about 2 casters in the back (to roll while tilting the cab)? I've seen that on some cabs... + 4 or 5 rubber "Feet" under.I don't know about levelers (the metal ones that screw up and down) ... the cab will be in the family den, which is level/flat already and I just want to stabilize the cab and protect the bottom. I don't know if this makes sense or not. Seems like a good plan.

my cabinet has two "rollers" on the back and levelers on the front..you just tilt the cabinet back to roll it. it works pretty well like that, plus you dont have to worry about it moving around on it's own.

I'd also vote for the 2 casters on the back. My first conversion cab had them. I put them on the front end of my driving cab (although it is extremely heavy and a pain to lift), and they are on a carcuss I have in the garage. It alleviates the need for a hand truck. You can pick up a couple of wheels at your local hardware store for around $5 to $7 each. They mount on the back surface, about 1/8" above ground level. If you put them a few inches in from the edge, they are more concealed.

If it were me, I'd avoid the sound from the TV all together. You can pick up a small set of amplified PC speakers from Goodwill for about $5. If you want a little more punch, for around $30 you can get a decent 2.1 speaker set. It is also VERY convenient to have the volume knob somewhere towards the front of the cab. On my first cab, I put it behind the coin door. This hid the knob, but required a bit more time to get to. I eventually moved it to the top right corner of the CP. Some people are really going for the original look, and hide the knob. I was more concerned about functionality. You're call.

What are you going to do about the front edge of the CP? Wrap around sticker material, t-molding, or other?

I just bought some heavy duty casters (I believe they are rated for 175 lbs each) - as suggested above (thanks) I will mount them BEHIND the cab toward the floor - a few inches from the edge to hide them...

To transport the cab, just tilt it back a bit and ROLL! (... remove the TV first! OUCH that thing is HEAVY )

I need heavy duty rubber blocks/feet to screw at the bottom (5 of them)- the guy at home depot told me about a store that carries a good choice of them... for another day.

I also got myself:

. a standard electrical switch. a soldering iron to connect the speakers to the amplifier circuit board (+ potentially some of my power wires/switches). some more velcro... always need some velcro around

I recommend a coin door on your CAB cause it really gives you (well at least me) some nostalgia every so often when you drop in some quarters to play a game. Also it would be super easy to install since you have a fresh CAB with no coin door cutout to try and match with a working mech.

I am going to need a longer volume knob, to put it through the 3/4" panel and reach the circuit board.

Also, if you haven't drilled your volume knob hole yet, you can hide your volume control behind the coin door like I did. This way you won't have a "knob" sticking down from your speaker panel and you can get to it whenever needed via the coin door. I installed mine and it works out great. I rarely need to go inside to adjust the volume cause you can control some of the "loud" games in the in-game setup menu (Mame F3 key). Here's some PICS to show my volume control.