The Unconsidered Cut

It's hard to top a lamb shank when it's braised just right. The stubby, gristly cut consolidates as it wet-roasts, gradually lending its collagen to the cooking liquid, and leaving meat that falls off the bone at the touch of a fork. Of course, not every cut is good for braising; because each muscle on an animal is designed to perform a unique function, they all behave differently with heat. Lamb neck and lamb shanks, however, are relatively interchangeable—sear either one and then let it fall apart (covered) in a braise.

To find the necks you may have to seek out a meat guy who deals in whole lambs— don't bother looking in a supermarket case— but with more farmers' markets and specialty/ethnic shops cropping up, it's easier than you'd think. Lamb (and goat) neck has always been popular in other cultures; a Halal or Greek butcher would almost surely carry it.

Slices from the neck are great for flavoring stews, and whole necks work equally well under wet heat. I prefer the neck in one piece because the bones provide internal structure, but boning and rolling the meat also works quite well. If you're lucky enough to have a home meat grinder, try mincing a boneless lamb neck (trimmed of sinew) and grilling up some lamb burgers.