Trane Heat Pump - Confirm my fears?

Thanks, Bubba. I agree with your opinion that a good vacuum
can greatly increase compressor life. I have worked with
commercial R22 chillers in the 60's and have worked with
automotive R12/R134 systems quite a bit. I have my
automotive papers to handle the refrigerants and equipment
available if needed. I do not trust my welding and brazing
ability enough to guarantee against leakage and with a heart
problem would have physical problems to do the labor part.
Just for the info of yourself and others that have replied,
I greatly appreciate your comments. 10 years ago, I would
have tackled this in a second but, because of my physical
limitations, I do not desire to do the compressor or unit
replacement myself unless I am unable to come up with a
competent tech. I am just trying to be sure I am not
looking at a $10 solution to a 2 bit problem. If I need the
$10 solution, I will simply take take my medicine.
Regards
Lugnut

We sometime hav weather good enough for you to thaw in late
January. Hope you enjoy it. I spent a couple of January
trips in Syracuse and Schenectady, NY a few years back.
This southern boy damn near froze to death.
Lugnut

wrote:
You need EPA 608 Type II certification to work on a high pressure
device like a heat pump. Even connecting the guages is considered
opening up the system.
Your "automotive papers" (assuming it's EPA 609) is limited the motor
vehicles only.
If you connect your guages keep a low profile because there's a
finders fee for EPA violations.

I've worked on an assortment of AC equipment, but I have no experience
with heat pumps or with Trane brand.
That said, it sure as heck sounds like your compressor is burnt out.
If you want to test the capacitor, isolate it (pull the wires off).
Discharge it (cross the terminals with a screw driver). Use the farads
scale on the Fluke, which should be indicated with a symbol that looks
a bit like this --|(-- and the screen should read a number of uF.
Probably about 30 to 40 uf in your capacitor.
However, t his is clutching straws. My sense is your compressor is
burnt out.

From what I'm reading, the compressor shows infinity ohms between the
220 volt connections on the compressor (with the wires pulled off).
That's a very, very clear indication the compressor is burnt out.
Time to consider replacement compressor, or replacement outdoor unit.

Infinity is the correct reading. The only reading I can
find on the compressor disconnected is ground to case which
indicates a good solid ground. I used the info from Jake
this afternoon to check the caps. It appears they are OK.
I think I have read enough and gotten enough info here to go
ahead and shop for getting the unit replaced. If I have
only the compressor replaced and the reversing valve was the
culprit, I'll be right back in the same boat shortly. I did
get a callback this afternoon from the owner of the original
installer indicating he would like a shot at resolving the
problem and may be able to get Trane or his supplier to cut
us a bit of slack and help with repair or replacement since
his people had been at the complaint before and since the
warranty expired and his records indicate they had already
contacted Trane months ago when they first serviced it about
this problem. He still swears it should be good for many
more years than what it appears I got out of it. I guess
I'll hear something this week if that is the case. I think
he may be in the best position to help if he is willing.
Again, I greatly appreciate the help from everyone who has
responded. I was simply taking a shot at there being
something I may have missed.
Regards
Lugnut

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