That's a good one, too as you aren't stuck with a dead center horizon when using T/S . My next decision is on the Wonderpana system that privatebydesign recommends. I'm sure I'll get it eventually, but $500+ on top of the lens isn't too practical at the moment.

That's a good one, too as you aren't stuck with a dead center horizon when using T/S . My next decision is on the Wonderpana system that privatebydesign recommends. I'm sure I'll get it eventually, but $500+ on top of the lens isn't too practical at the moment.

Actually, I did some empirical research on this:

A. If you are using a leveling base and a ball-head on top of that- you can pan most flexibly. 1. You can pan parallel to the vertical axis and level with horizon (level base, level camera, pan); 2. You can pan parallel to the vertical axis and pointed downwards/upwards (level base, point downwards/upwards, pan); 3. You can pan at an angle with the vertical axis and pointed downwards/upwards (level camera with base, then tilt the base and pan).

B. If you are using a leveling head (a dual-pan head or a panning clamp on a panning ballhead or an Acratech upside down)- then you are limited to 1 and 3.

This is because in the first case, you have two ball-and-socket joints, with the panning mechanism in between. In the second case, you have only one. So it is more restrictive. Unfortunately, I am not tall enough to have a ballhead atop a leveling base on my GT2541- so I had to compromise.

That's a good one, too as you aren't stuck with a dead center horizon when using T/S . My next decision is on the Wonderpana system that privatebydesign recommends. I'm sure I'll get it eventually, but $500+ on top of the lens isn't too practical at the moment.

Actually, I did some empirical research on this:

A. If you are using a leveling base and a ball-head on top of that- you can pan most flexibly. 1. You can pan parallel to the vertical axis and level with horizon (level base, level camera, pan); 2. You can pan parallel to the vertical axis and pointed downwards/upwards (level base, point downwards/upwards, pan); 3. You can pan at an angle with the vertical axis and pointed downwards/upwards (level camera with base, then tilt the base and pan).

B. If you are using a leveling head (a dual-pan head or a panning clamp on a panning ballhead or an Acratech upside down)- then you are limited to 1 and 3.

This is because in the first case, you have two ball-and-socket joints, with the panning mechanism in between. In the second case, you have only one. So it is more restrictive. Unfortunately, I am not tall enough to have a ballhead atop a leveling base on my GT2541- so I had to compromise.

Interesting and I don't do enough Pano to go with a full-blown gimbal system, but have the RRS panning clamp and the precision plus package. I don't have a leveling base, either, so the T/S is nice to have.

Also, did I mention I was born in late November making me a Sagittarius as well? I don't know if your username is related to your "sign" or a rock band...

I guess I'm done with lenses the same way that 300, I mean 400, I mean, 600 or 800mm is long enough for you

Just kidding, hope you're enjoying your toys as well. I do hope to make some money with this - my 16-35 II has worked well for interiors, but is not great for exteriors and the TS-E 24mm is frequently too tight to shoot big buildings from the optimal position. I have a handful of spec (as in speculator) shoots planned for some of my existing clients and a local architectural society. If they go well, I should be able to pay for the lens and make a good profit pretty quickly in addition to building some business.

I guess I'm done with lenses the same way that 300, I mean 400, I mean, 600 or 800mm is long enough for you

Just kidding, hope you're enjoying your toys as well. I do hope to make some money with this - my 16-35 II has worked well for interiors, but is not great for exteriors and the TS-E 24mm is frequently too tight to shoot big buildings from the optimal position. I have a handful of spec (as in speculator) shoots planned for some of my existing clients and a local architectural society. If they go well, I should be able to pay for the lens and make a good profit pretty quickly in addition to building some business.

Interesting and I don't do enough Pano to go with a full-blown gimbal system, but have the RRS panning clamp and the precision plus package. I don't have a leveling base, either, so the T/S is nice to have.

Also, did I mention I was born in late November making me a Sagittarius as well? I don't know if your username is related to your "sign" or a rock band...

Anyways, looks like mine will be here on Wednesday!

I think getting the RRS leveling head will give you a lot more flexibility, since you already have everything else needed.I was born in early December, so same pinch It is an old id from yahoo games that just stuck.Mine will be home (in Oregon) Thursday, but it will be a while till I get it...

I'd have to get a RRS tripod first I'm using an old Manfrotto 055BPro aluminum tripod with a RRS BH-55 head. I had Manfrotto and Gitzo carbon fiber tripods but managed to shatter them both Yes, they really do shatter if you drop them on sharp rocks or crush them. I've heard the RRS 'pods are tougher, but I'm good with my aluminum one for now.

Also, funny about your username, and I'm sorry you won't get to play with the new lens right away. It looks like mine is out for delivery...

In the meantime, I have ordered a spare lens cap (scuffed one for half price on eBay, just as I needed) and 95-82mm adapter to make a screw-in filter holder. It will provide protection when I am not shifting the lens (regular walk around use, setting up before a shift, etc.). The front element looks very vulnerable.

In the meantime, I have ordered a spare lens cap (scuffed one for half price on eBay, just as I needed) and 95-82mm adapter to make a screw-in filter holder. It will provide protection when I am not shifting the lens (regular walk around use, setting up before a shift, etc.). The front element looks very vulnerable.

The lens cap comes with a strap, so hopefully that will help, but good idea on the spare. I lost an extender (front) cap once and it was months before I could find a reasonable replacement. While the big guys were out of stock, eBayers were charging $50+. Also, I've had the 14L II and the Sigma 12-24 II with bulbous front elements and it's not as bad as you'd think. Just be careful and use the lens cap when on the move and you'll be okay. Luckily T/S lenses don't exactly lend themselves to rushed photos, so it's pretty easy to be careful. The only incident I had was with one of my cats who decided to wipe his wet nose all over the front element before I realized how close he was!

In the meantime, I have ordered a spare lens cap (scuffed one for half price on eBay, just as I needed) and 95-82mm adapter to make a screw-in filter holder. It will provide protection when I am not shifting the lens (regular walk around use, setting up before a shift, etc.). The front element looks very vulnerable.

The lens cap comes with a strap, so hopefully that will help, but good idea on the spare. I lost an extender (front) cap once and it was months before I could find a reasonable replacement. While the big guys were out of stock, eBayers were charging $50+. Also, I've had the 14L II and the Sigma 12-24 II with bulbous front elements and it's not as bad as you'd think. Just be careful and use the lens cap when on the move and you'll be okay. Luckily T/S lenses don't exactly lend themselves to rushed photos, so it's pretty easy to be careful. The only incident I had was with one of my cats who decided to wipe his wet nose all over the front element before I realized how close he was!

Luckily cats have soft noses probably cleaned your glass too! The spare is to make the filter holder. You take the end cap off and attach the step down filter. That allows use of 82mm filters on the lens. I can use my polarizer if I'm not shifting, or if I'm using it with a TC.Plus, protection, of course. There's a DIY video by sivaveera on YouTube.

In the meantime, I have ordered a spare lens cap (scuffed one for half price on eBay, just as I needed) and 95-82mm adapter to make a screw-in filter holder. It will provide protection when I am not shifting the lens (regular walk around use, setting up before a shift, etc.). The front element looks very vulnerable.

The lens cap comes with a strap, so hopefully that will help, but good idea on the spare. I lost an extender (front) cap once and it was months before I could find a reasonable replacement. While the big guys were out of stock, eBayers were charging $50+. Also, I've had the 14L II and the Sigma 12-24 II with bulbous front elements and it's not as bad as you'd think. Just be careful and use the lens cap when on the move and you'll be okay. Luckily T/S lenses don't exactly lend themselves to rushed photos, so it's pretty easy to be careful. The only incident I had was with one of my cats who decided to wipe his wet nose all over the front element before I realized how close he was!

Luckily cats have soft noses probably cleaned your glass too! The spare is to make the filter holder. You take the end cap off and attach the step down filter. That allows use of 82mm filters on the lens. I can use my polarizer if I'm not shifting, or if I'm using it with a TC.Plus, protection, of course. There's a DIY video by sivaveera on YouTube.