We've replaced fuses checked wiring still nothng. When turning the ignition I here a clicking sound. First time this happened was about a month ago, I took it to the shop and they replaced the starter. 2nd time I jumped stRted and it cranked. The next day did the same thng and nothing. Any suggestions?

I replace hose coming from thermostat because it blew out now and I will put water back in the radiator is still I can hear it pouring out the bottom what do you think is wrong with it did I break my car

RPM is low it is always below 5, i need to hit the oscillator gas to to start the car most of the time. Other time the engine will die while i am driving i but in natural and step on the gas couple of time to restart the car.

This happened on several occassions, but it did start after a day or two had past. This last time it has failed to run. I removed the distributor cap and found that the rotor was not or did not spin. I removed the unit and appeared that the shaft above the gear was slightly warped and the u-shaped clip which holds the pin in place was not engaging the pin. I rotated the shaft on the unit and it rotated freely, but seemed rough, not a smooth rotation. I purchased an after market distributor in excellent condition. I installed the new distributor and had the same results, no rotation of the distributor shaft. Obviously there's a gear in the distributor housing, could this gear be bad? Can it be easily replaced? Where is the fuse and sensor that are associated or related to the distributor located? Could these two items be the cause?? HELP PLEASE!!!

I have had two shops look at the car. Replaced the distributor and hose and pushed up the idle. Had a sensor knocking code P0325. Car still stalls when sitting for longer periods. Is this something with my fuel system?

I have 74000 miles on the car. It has not been in an accident recently. Airbags never deployed. In September 2014 there was a recall of an airbag inflator (passenger airbag) inflator was replaced. I never had a sensor problem before.

Replaced alternator on the vehicle in question and need to know if a "Control Panel reboot" is a standard procedure without additional charge. After the alternator was installed, the dome lights, clock and automatic door locks no longer work. I guess the basic question is whether or not the reboot should be a part of the replacement or is it a separate charge?

car was running fine as usual, doing about 55 and it began to lose power, sputtered, wouldn't excel. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel to the engine. Died. When attempted to restart-hard start, barely got it to turn over, missing, sputtering and wouldn't excel at all.Replaced fuel filter, fuel pump and screen, cleaned MAF sensor. No change. Ran code and showed the distributor was bad. Had it towed to mechanic and he confirmed. Replaced distributor with a Duralast Gold from Auto Zone. Wouldn't even run for 30 seconds. Code said distributor bad. Got another one, ran for 30 miles, same thing, code says distributor bad, got a 4th one, it's hanging in (only driven 13 miles on it) but stalled once at a stop light and hard start after being turned off. Spoke to another shop (I know mechanics at both) didn't give them all of this history, they checked wires, checked this and that, ran code and the distributor is bad!I then told him this was the 4th new distributor in as many days and his first question was "did you get it from auto zone?" Said yes, and he said it was no unheard of, even common, to get crap parts from them and that's way most shops don't.Before I go spending an addition $400 on a dealer OEM distributor, I'm wondering if anyone else has had issues with this or with duralast gold distributors.Thanks....