In the kitchen with Les Dames

April 16, 2009|By Bill DaleyTribune Newspapers

What it is: There's nothing like a dame in the kitchen, especially one from Les Dames d'Escoffier. This international group includes top women chefs, bakers, cookbook authors, writers and journalists. And they really do what the subtitle of this book says: "shape the way we eat and drink." The book is a collection of recipes and tips from the likes of restaurateurs Lidia Bastianich and Alice Waters, bakers Gale Gand and Dorie Greenspan, authors and teachers Marcella Hazan and Anne Willan. Every course is covered, from soups to appetizers, entrees and side dishes, desserts and sweet treats.

Praise and quibbles: Taking 120 recipes from dozens of contributors and fitting them into a coherent, comprehensive 365-page cookbook is a challenge met by editor Marcella Rosene, with assistance from columnist Pat Mozersky.

Home cooks will appreciate the clarity of the recipes while foodies will enjoy finding some of their favorite chefs on the roster. Food historian Joan Reardon, for example, unearths a previously unpublished recipe from Julia Child for lobster Newburg.

Recipes are supported with plenty of side notes ranging from wine pairings and ingredient substitutions to food safety and sustainability.

The headnotes can be a bit too chirpy and repetitive, yet each contributor does merit a proper introduction. Color photographs of selected recipes are grouped together at two points in the book; there should be more of them, preferably a shot for every recipe.

Why we think you will like it: This is a practical cookbook whose recipes range the gamut from Italian-style short ribs with rosemary polenta to glazed lemon cookies. What's more, each recipe comes from an impeccable source, a real food professional. You know these recipes will work and taste delicious.