Need's a lot of help

Tractor now runs, starts every time and idles very smoothly and quietly no smoke knocks or missing. If it was meant to be a stationary engine never put to load Iíd paint it and be done with the restoration. I have other plans for it so I need more help please. Help with any or all of the following questions would be appreciated.

1. I did Bob Mís 12 volt conversion and the warning light never turns off. Everything seems wired right. Had the alternator tested at the auto parts store and it was putting out 15 volts. When I pull the on switch, amp needle deflects to - but never shows charge at any speed of the tractor.

2. . When I advance the throttle it accelerates nicely then as it starts to come up to speed I get what Iíll call a wobble sound from inside the engine. Not a metal to metal banging like something about to break. More like the crank shaft would be coming unseated a little and bouncing around. This may also be part of the problem in #1 (Maybe itís not running fast enough to start the alternator.)

3. Clutch does not work at all. When I engage the clutch to try and put the tractor in gear the gears grind like I hadnít pushed the clutch in at all. Left in neutral with the clutch out there is a steady knocking sound that increases or decreases with idle speed.

4. Coolant circulation. With the radiator cap off it looks like every now and then a small amount of fluid circulates. When I turned it off this afternoon the top hose was hot and soft but the bottom hose was cold and hard.

Re: $350 Cub - Need's a lot of help in reply to Stan, 11-24-2000 16:37:56

On your clutch.My C had a bad throw out bearing on it that did much the same thing you described.You will have to split your tractor to replace it if that turns out to be the case. I dreaded that and put it off a long time but was not bad all.Borrowed an engine hoist from a buddy of mine and had the thing in half alot faster than I thought it would take.The bearing was not hard at all to replace and not very high. Mine had been spinning around on the shaft. The other thing you might check, and I dont have my manual in front of me, is the play in the clutch pedal. I think it should have about 1 5/8 inchs of free travel in it. There will be an adjustment for that if that turns out to be the problem. Hope some guys a lot smarter than me can add some more ideas to help you out. I just bought a B for $250 and I'm sure I will running into a lot of the same things.

Re: Re: $350 Cub - Need's a lot of help in reply to Stan, 11-24-2000 16:45:46

Have you tried reversing the wires on your ammeter. On my C this caused it to show - all the time.Also you might try putting I belive it is a smaller pulley on your alt. to make it spin faster and kick in to charge at a lower RPM. If it is a bigger pulley I'm sure someone can correct me.On my C the ammeter does not show it's charging till I get it up to a pretty good RPM,especially if I have the lights on.On the touch control I know that when I changed the fluid on mine it got a little air in it and took a while to start working again. It would do just like yours move when started and that was it.I belive that there is a screen filter on this unit also but have not dealt with that so I'm not sure about that. Not sure if any of this helps , just a few things I found on my own project.

Onthe cooling, this tractor does not have a waterpump, so the water circulates by what they call a thermo-syphon system, hot water rises and cold water decends. They lower hose will not get hot, especiall in coolw weather and no load on the engine, unless the water dopesn't circulate at all. Our C was the same, and itaseems the temp guage never came off cold untill after shutting the engine down hot, and the air quit flowing through the radiator.

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