Lynn

Fall foliage fans flock to New England every year to marvel at the stunning displays of crimson, gold, and green. This year there are many reasons to choose Acadia National Park in Maine for your leaf-peeping tour.

Let’s start with the setting. Here mountains of color are surrounded by the ocean and intercut with glacial lakes of deep sapphire.

You can view autumn’s display from the comfort of your car, especially as you motor along Acadia’s 27-mile Park Loop Road. Reflecting the thoughtful partnership of John D. Rockefeller, Jr. and Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr., it circumnavigates much of the park and provides access to Cadillac Mountain, which is the highest point along the North Atlantic seaboard.

Better still, you can experience fall’s finest up close as you walk, scramble, or hike Acadia’s 125 miles of trails. In addition, 45 miles of carriage roads take you deep into the park either on foot or bicycle. Here you can inhale the scent of balsam and hear the sounds of seagulls and waves, as your eyes take in the explosion of color.

Another reason visitors opt for fall vacations in Acadia is because the national park provides such an array of park ranger programs. Summertime favorites are still available, including Stars Over Sand Beach and the photography workshop Focus on Acadia, which has great appeal in autumn. The National Park Service adds special programs in the fall, such as an easy 1-mile Autumn Ramble and the Hawk watch atop Cadillac to learn about raptor migration.

Neighboring communities, Bar Harbor and Southwest Harbor among them, also offer many entertainment options. This year, Oktoberfest in Southwest Harbor starts with a wine and cheese tasting on Friday, October 10, then explodes on Saturday into a Beerfest, with games, music, and an antique car display—along with tastings offered by the best microbreweries in New England.

If fall flavors tempt your palate, Maine puts great local ingredients in the hands of nationally recognized chefs. They creatively explore what apples, pumpkins, squash, and corn can do to complement the lobster and seafood visitors crave. Some of the restaurants best known for their seasonal menus are Red Sky, Fathom, Mache Bistro, and Burning Tree.

Good Morning America, ABC News’ popular morning program, asked its viewers to identify their favorite place in America. With nominations ranging from Chicago’s Lakefront to Alabama’s Gulf Shores, Acadia National Park came in at the top. It’s easy to understand why.

The views are breathtaking. Maine’s rocky coastline, rich spruce forests, and pristine lakes are set around 24 mountain peaks. And because Acadia was created through private donations of land tracts, some of Maine’s most charming villages–think white-steepled churches and village greens–are nestled alongside the national park.

There’s not only a lot to see, but a lot to do. Whether you are a family with kids, girlfriends on a get-away, or a couple combining adventure and romance, Acadia National Park offers many different activities. People who love the outdoors hike, bike, and kayak. Art lovers roam galleries. And everyone eats lobster.

There’s so much to enjoy, in fact, that a little advance planning pays off. Consider what you want to do most in the amount of time you have. And remember that certain events are not offered daily. For example, some of the Park Ranger Programs occur only once or twice a week, so check out the schedule of events and plan around it. And remember, with Acadia National Park ranked by GMA viewers as their “Favorite Place in America,” you may want to get reservations in advance for the most popular restaurants!

Hike a trail from among the 125 miles of stunning, well-maintained routes on the island. Consider Jordan Pond as a starting point so that you can efficiently include lunch or tea (popovers, lemonade, chowder) at Jordan Pond House.

Visit the “Quiet Side,” being sure to see Somes Sound, the postcard-perfect Somesville Bridge, Echo Lake, Bass Harbor Headlight, and the fishing village of Bass Harbor.

Have dinner at Thurston’s Lobster Pound in Bernard on the “Quiet Side.”

If you have one week

Add in a sea kayaking tour – great from Bar Harbor in the morning, Southwest Harbor for sunset — or just rent a kayak and paddle around on your own in one of the lakes.

Take a horse-drawn carriage drive from Wildwood Stables, an Acadia tradition.

Consider bird watching. Once thought of as a hobby for elderly folks of the nerdier sort, in 2011 it was the subject of a comedy starring Owen Wilson. Mick Jagger and Paul McCartney are both said to be fans of this pastime that originally gained popularity in Victorian England with the publication of such books as Birds through an Opera Glass (1889), but today counts one out of every five Americans as a participant.

My interest in bird watching emerged from my passion for hiking. If I took a guided bird tour, I reasoned, I could add to my basic knowledge and get even more out of my day hikes in Acadia National Park in Maine. So, we signed up with The Natural History Center in Bar Harbor.

We arrived early for our 8am appointment, and with more than a little excitement, sat waiting on the bench on Firefly Lane opposite the Bar Harbor Village Green gazebo.

A few minutes later the owner of the center, Rich MacDonald, pulled up and we were off to the first of six stops on the three-hour bird watching tour of Mount Desert Island. As we drove, Rich introduced himself.

“I grew up in western New York, the oldest son in the family. We had a dairy farm and cheese shop. 37 types. But I was an academic, and although I was supposed to take over the farm, my father encouraged me to pursue my passion.”

That was biology and ornithology, in particular. After ten years as a field biologist with The Nature Conservancy and a stint in consulting, Rich met his wife, Natalie Springuel, also a naturalist, who was a Master Maine Guide for sea kayaking. They moved to Mount Desert Island and opened The Natural History Center four years ago.

As Rich parked the van at Hadley’s Point, the northernmost point of the island, the wind picked up. The yellow leaves of the nearby poplars rustled, as chickadees chirped from somewhere within the grove. Rich positioned his scope beside the van, which sheltered us on this breezy, but bright October morning. Although we were novice bird watchers, we knew this was not the best time of year for birding. Sure enough, the first birds Rich’s scope picked up bobbing around in Eastern Bay were herring gulls—common to every beach and, well, garbage lot.

Rich got excited. “What do you see?” We peered through the scope. Then we saw it: a bright red spot on the bill. Only when a chick pecks it, Rich explained, does the mother regurgitate food to feed it. “That red dot is key to survival.” It turns out a Dutch scientist won a Nobel Prize for these findings about “signal stimulti.” I knew I’d never look at herring gulls the same.

We moved on, sighting yellow legs, red-necked grebes, Canadian geese, a bald eagle, several types of ducks, and mosquitoes of avian scale. The anecdotes about bird behavior, habitat, and history accumulated even faster than the checkmarks on the birding list.

We saw a mourning dove, which prompted Rich to tell us the story of its relation, the passenger pigeon. In the 19th century a pigeon migration, in flocks numbering in the billions, was such a spectacle that John James Audubon described it as “darkening the sky.” These pigeons are extinct today.

“I see mourning doves pecking at the gravel on the carriage roads,” I said to Rich.

“Eating little stones helps them grind things in their stomachs,” he explained.

“What kind of spruce is this?” I asked.

“Black spruce. It’s the most common in Maine.”

It was clear we were in the company of a passionate expert. It’s no wonder that the hedge fund elite hire him to guide extended hiking and kayaking trips. Even more, it fits that he would be the naturalist for Garrison Keillor on the cruises of National Public Radio’s A Prairie Home Companion.

Yes, birding with Rich MacDonald was another victory for the nerds.

And I was right. A walk in the woods is great. When you know what’s singing in the trees, it’s even better.

The Natural History Center is located at 6 Firefly Lane, Bar Harbor, Maine, (207) 801-2617.

When one of the brewers I visited at Acadia’s Oktoberfest described an ale as very “hoppy,” I said, “Yes, happy!” and extended my sampling glass.

With my credentials—or lack thereof—established, I can now share my sentiments about the annual Acadia Oktoberfest, and you can rest assured that I won’t be describing the beers in the manner of, say, a wine critic.

This year, as in the seventeen previous, Acadia’s Oktoberfest was sponsored by the Southwest and Tremont Chamber of Commerce during Columbus Day weekend at Smuggler’s Den Campground on Mount Desert Island. In years past up to four thousand locals, national park visitors, beer geeks, and those just looking for a good time have joined in the imbibing, as well as music and crafts exhibits.

I’d never been among them, even though I come to Acadia from New York City every October to hike.

First of all, admission to the Saturday beerfest is $30. For that you get a roll of ten tickets, entitling you to ten samplings in your 4-ounce “souvenir” glass. In addition to the beer tent, there are two others devoted to crafts and food/entertainment. All food is additional. (The other option is to pay $10 for admission only.)

But that $30 price tag is nothing for the many fans of craft beers, who view this festival as their chance to sample both the classic and seasonal offerings of 21 breweries, all in the craft or microbrewery category that boasts small batches and artisanal quality. According to the Brewers Associations, craft brewing sales soared 15 percent in 2012, while U.S. beer sales overall were virtually stagnant at a .9 percent increase.

Anchoring the entrance to the beer tent at this year’s Acadia’s Oktoberfest was Mount Desert Island’s own Atlantic Brewing, founded in 1990 and a driving force behind the festival’s inception. It’s where we tasted our first sample. Fred chose the classic Real Ale, but I decided to try the Island Ginger, a lightly spiced brew that was a more flavorful alternative to the Bar Harbor Summer Ale I like to drink with lobster.

Scouting out the surroundings, we moved from the beer tent, which was packed with enthusiasts, over to the food tent. Here the band was playing and couples, flushed from their own circuits of the beer tent, were dancing.

The food stand for Tanya’s Off the Grid Foods caught our attention. Loading up with a freshly prepared salsa and chips and cups of chili, we found seats at long tables. Cool autumn air refreshed the tent as we dug into the perfectly seasoned chili. I ducked back into the beer tent for two more harvest ales, and, returning, stirred some sour cream into the chili. The band, The Peterson Project, started up a new set, moving from bluesy rock to bluegrass.

The difference in the beers was really remarkable. Of the 21 breweries represented, only three were from outside of Maine and one—Brooklyn Brewery—from outside of New England. Some of the Maine beers, such as Allagash, Geary, and Shipyard, are well distributed throughout New England and sometimes farther, such as New York, where I’ve seen them in restaurants featuring craft beers. Many, however, were local micro-breweries. We stood in line twice for the Daymark from Rising Tide, a family-owned craft brewery in Portland that specializes in artisanal ales.Some booths were staffed by sales reps, others volunteers. “I just moved here from Alaska,” one volunteer told me. “I thought it would be a great way to meet people.”

In front of the Sam Adams booth, a couple in Bavarian-style, felt hats posed for a photo.

A cut-out of Sam Adams himself marched by.There were no lederhosen to be seen, although I did spot a guy in a lime green T-shirt and plaid kilt.

In the midst of the revelers enjoying the fall craft beers, caricaturist Susan Fox sketched a smiling subject.Back in the food tent Fred ordered a plate of BBQ ribs from Nostrano, the Town Hill caterer that specializes in private dinners. When he asked for a knife, the owner Frank Pendola simply twisted the rack, and the meat fell off the bones.

It was getting close to the 6pm closing, and we still had quite a few red tickets left in our rolls. So many more beers, so little time. The Fatty Bumpkins Maine Draft Cider was too sweet for my taste, but we loved the chocolate and mint-laced coffee and Cadillac Stout that wrapped up our tasting.

The closing event in the beer tent was about to begin. Someone in the crowd told us they were counting the tickets at each brewer’s stand to determine the people’s choice–who would get to come back next year with no vendor’s fee. We heard “Testing…testing” on the mike, then, “Brooklyn Brewery.”

The view from Acadia Mountain, access to which is not affected by the national park closure.

The government closure of national parks, effective October 1, 2013, has affected thousands of visitors looking forward to seeing Acadia National Park this fall. With National Park webpages also shutdown, official information is limited. However, local experts have stepped in to share the latest information on such social media sites as TripAdvisor, where postings under “Contingency Plans” in the Bar Harbor forum are filling the gaps for worried travelers.

The Park Loop Road has been closed, thereby barring roadway access to such popular attractions as Cadillac Mountain and Jordan Pond House. The Hulls Cove Visitors Center is also closed.

That’s the bad news. On the other hand, the Island Explorer bus system is running and ferrying visitors throughout the island. In addition, as Acadia National Park Deputy Superintendent Len Bobinchock told the Portland Press Herald, “You can’t lock up trails, but you can close the roads that lead into the park.” Because skeletal crews are not adequate to handle extensive search and rescue operations in the case of emergencies, the National Park Service is asking people to stay off the park’s trails until the shutdown is over. However, they are not requiring people to leave, it seems. If you do decide to hike, exercise good judgment.

Acadia National Park occupies only about one half of Mount Desert Island. The sublime beauty of this area far surpasses any single mountain or pond, and a government closure of the national park won’t lock you out of enjoying a trip to Downeast Maine.

Here are 7 ways you can enjoy Acadia National Park and Mount Desert Island, despite Congress.

Hike to the top of Cadillac Mountain. And, in fact, with no tourist buses circumnavigating the top, the summit may be just that much more peaceful. There are trails from all four points of the compass, but the easiest to access during the closure is to the Cadillac South Ridge Trail, a long, but gradual climb 3.7 miles each way. The trailhead is on Route 3, just south of the entrance to Blackwoods Campground. It is a lovely hike, with spectacular views, just be prepared for the 7.4 miles of hiking and remember, of course, that you are hiking at your own risk.

Choose another mountain to climb. If you are not up for such a long hike, there are many other alternatives. Consider Acadia Mountain, with its great views of Somes Sound and the Atlantic beyond. Its trailhead is on Route 102 between Somesville and Southwest Harbor. A moderate loop including both Acadia and neighboring St. Sauveur Mountain is 4.2 miles. Another great choice is Beech Mountain. There are also several different trails to its summit—none of which is affected by park closures. Tom St. Germain’s excellent hiking guide, available in bookstores throughout Bar Harbor, can provide you with all of the details.

Bike around Eagle Lake. The carriage roads around the lake are just off Eagle Lake Road/Route 233. According to the TripAdvisor posts on October 1st, cars were lined up along the roadway, indicating that the carriage roads were still open. These carriage roads connect to others in the network, including the road that runs closely along Bubble Pond, with Cadillac Pond towering above. The reflections of the colorful foliage of the West Face on Bubble Pond are compelling for any photographer. Walking around Eagle Lake is also a good option.

Go sea kayaking. “They can’t control the water, so we’ll still be open” was the message of Mark Fletcher at Aquaterra Adventures in Bar Harbor. This operator of group kayaking tours launches from a private dock on West Street, so there’s no need to worry about park closures. Another option is National Park Sea Kayak, also in Bar Harbor, which leads tours on the western side of Mount Desert Island, including popular sunset trips.

Take a horse-drawn carriage ride. Although the national park concession at Wildwood Stables will be closed, you can enjoy a carriage ride throughout Bar Harbor with Wild Iris Horse Farm. The driver discusses points of interest, as well as the history of the town. Says owner Sandi Read, “It’s a great way to experience Bar Harbor the way it was before the days of automobiles.”

Visit Bass Harbor. Although the roadway to Bass Harbor Head Light has been barricaded, you can walk a short distance to see this lighthouse listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Then drive the short distance down to the harbor. A stroll around this working lobster harbor in late afternoon is full of charms. Walk along the shoreline and down on the pier. Whether it’s a skiff, a pile of lobster traps, some worn-out buoys, or a Boston whaler, the scene is iconic Maine and stunningly beautiful in late-afternoon golden light. Don’t forget your camera.

Enjoy Mount Desert Island’s villages. From Bar Harbor to Bass Harbor and Northeast Harbor to Southwest Harbor, each has its own personality. Don’t miss Somesville, in the center of the island, with its charming Japanese-style bridge, one of the most photographed spots in Maine.

“When the udder is nicely attached like this, that’s good,” explained the pretty, blue-eyed member of the 4-H goat program. Then she moved gracefully over to another goat in the small pen and swung her hand to its underside to demonstrate a dangling udder, pointing out, “Not like this.”

What makes an award-winning goat was what had piqued my curiosity as I wandered among the livestock shows at the Blue Hill Fair, which was celebrating 100 years of 4-H in Maine. In addition to these exhibits, which highlight the skills of 4-H members in animal husbandry, the fair draws over 30,000 locals and visitors each year to flower and vegetable shows, midway rides, special events, and entertainment. It has run continuously since 1891 and, in fact, was the fair that provided E. B. White’s imagination with the details for Wilbur’s competition, Fern’s Ferris wheel ride, Templeton’s foraging, and, of course, Charlotte’s web. Along with other Maine fairs, including the granddaddy of them all, the Fryeburg Fair, which takes place September 29th through October 6th this year and draws ten times the audience, it is an important part of Maine’s agricultural heritage and a great thing to do on a vacation to Maine in early fall.

Visitors to the Blue Hill Fair pet a terrific pig.

A couple of days before we went to the Blue Hill Fair I read Charlotte’s Web. Like a magical travel brochure, it lit my anticipation to go back in time to an old-fashioned country fair. But, when we finally got around to going on Sunday afternoon, my spirits dipped. The Open Sheep Dog Trials were over, and the Farmers Ox Pull had come and gone. But the sun was shining, and crowds gathered casually around the barns to witness young 4-H members exhibit the skills they’d mastered in agriculture, community involvement, and leadership. “There’s no place like a country fair for the youth of 4-H to showcase their skills,” I read in the program, and my enthusiasm built as I chatted with the girls about their Nubians, LaManchas, and Alpines. (LaManchas are the ones with such tiny ears that they appear to have none at all.)

Visiting the goat exhibits at the Blue Hill Fair

After applauding the rescued dogs who demonstrated their Frisbee-catching skills in the “Disc-Connected K9 Show,” we headed toward the grandstand to view the 3600 Horse Pull. This was a contest to see how far teams of two weighing no more than 3600 pounds could pull a sled of weights in five minutes. Here the crowd watched intensely, politely but firmly asking those standing in front to sit down.

Horse pull at the Blue Hill Fair

Heading back to the barns, I ogled accomplishments of those who had grown everything from sunflowers to peppers to tomatoes to squash. I watched an old gentleman demonstrating how to cane a chair. “It’s a lot of work, but you feel good to see it when it’s done,” he said.

Chair caning was among the time-honored crafts demonstrated at the Blue Hill Fair

Finally, it was time to find a seat in the packed grandstand to watch more than 100 women compete in the much-anticipated Women’s Skillet Toss. The announcer’s voice boomed that “The World’s Women” were invited to the Intercontinental and Greater Hancock County Women’s Skillet Toss Championship, and representatives from Maine, New York, California, New Hampshire, and Florida filed in to compete in the Kittens and Cougars classes.

Fans packed the grandstand at the Blue Hill Fair to watch the Women’s Skillet Toss

The contestants hurled cast iron skillets down a center line, suffering deductions when the skillet went off course. Stacy Connor of Dedham, Maine, who won last year with a throw of 80 feet, 6 inches, demonstrated her dominance again this year, although her footage declined to 57 feet, 9 inches. (I think she herself got a little “thrown off,” when her first toss in the final round flew over the fence and, as the crowd ducked and gasped, hit the announcer’s stand.

A contestant from Blue Hill winding up for the Women’s Skillet Toss

It was time to go home. I hadn’t thought about 4-H in a long time. I had lived in Boston, Chicago, Minneapolis, and New York since my childhood years in Massachusetts, when I sewed aprons and pin cushions in 4-H. I remembered the pledge that encapsulates the four H’s—head, heart, hands, health—and thought that, at least on this sunny afternoon at a country fair in Maine, they all added up to a fifth: happiness.

Last March I got to go on a Lindblad/National Geographic expedition to Costa Rica that had a photography emphasis. One of our guides was both a well-educated, local naturalist and certified photography instructor. That combination of talents in the field—and Costa Rica is so amazing both close in and from afar—made the trip unusually satisfying.

If you’ve always wanted to participate in a photo workshop in Maine, I recommend you consider the upcoming Acadia National Park Photography Adventure that Lester Picker is offering October 10-14, 2013. It is conducted in conjunction with the Nikonians Academy, which is dedicated to teaching photography through hands-on practical workshops.

But I recommend it because Les Picker possesses that rare combination of environmental education and photographic know-how that I experienced on my National Geographic expedition.

Les received his doctorate in ecology from the University of Maine and used Acadia National Park for his research. Having lived in Maine for ten years, he knows the intricacies of Acadia in a way that’s rare for those offering photo workshops in Maine, and there are plenty of them.

Photo by Workshop Participant Dave Soderlund

One of his students, Thomas Wilson of North Sandwich, New Hampshire, emphasized this in his review of the workshop, “Les’ knowledge of the history and flora of Acadia enriched the experience.” Another student, Dave Soderlund of Ithaca, New York, echoed, “His depth of knowledge of the landscape, history and biology of the island informed our photography and took us to places that most other workshops just don’t see. Les provided itineraries that were well-balanced between iconic locations (Cadillac Mountain, Bass Harbor Lighthouse) and out-of-the-way gems.”

Les’ itinerary also includes The Bubbles, Jordan Pond, Ocean Drive, Sand Beach, and Cadillac Cliffs, as well as the villages of Bar Harbor, Southwest Harbor, Somesville, and Northeast Harbor—all places every visitor wants to see.

Each evening Les offers an optional image review and critique—an excellent opportunity since the workshop is limited to ten students. Another Acadia workshop participant, Dr. Lew Rothman of New York City, said, “He offered solid and comprehensive shooting tips geared to our individual needs and provided insightful feedback after each shoot. Perhaps most important he provided additional opportunity to review and improve our images after we returned home from the workshop. He was genuinely interested in our progress and it didn’t end with the workshop.”

To find out more, visit the Nikonians Academy site, but do it now. When I was last in touch with Les, there were only a few spots left.

In 2011 the Spanierman Gallery in New York City brought together the work of 24 artists, including Will Barnet, George Bellows, and Marsden Hartley, to examine how Maine had inspired them. Entitled “Maine – An Artist’s Retreat,” the show revealed many representations of the state’s coastline and islands. Yet, what sets Maine apart, the catalog said, is how Maine’s forests, rocky shores, marshes, and harbors always present themselves as fresh, alive, and unexplored, no matter how many times in the past artists have rendered them.

The opportunity to discover these landscapes for yourself—fresh and alive–will be available to students in an upcoming painting expedition with acclaimed Maine artist Judy Taylor. It will take place September 3-6, 2013 off the coast of Mount Desert Island, home of Acadia National Park in Maine.

What’s exciting about this workshop, however, is that it will truly be an opportunity to explore the unexplored because it will take place on a small private island.

According to Judy Taylor, the island, which has only one house which dates back to the 1930s, is very close to Mount Desert Island. It has 360 views, with one side overlooking Indian Point Nature Conservancy “where the seals perch on rocks.” Says Judy, “You can walk the entire island easily. It gives us such flexibility to take advantage of light in both the morning and afternoon.”

Lessons will all be about plein air painting, and students can work in the medium of their choice. “Blocking in and simplifying shapes will be key,” Judy notes. Lessons will also focus on color mixing, light and shade, composition, and atmospheric and linear perspective.

Students can register for two days for $350 or four days for $650. They must arrange for their own housing on Mount Desert Island and bring their own lunch each day. The day begins at 9am at the dock in Pretty Marsh where they’ll return around 4pm.

Eight guests had signed up for an exclusive “cooking adventure” at Ann’s Point Inn in Bass Harbor, Maine. Working alongside Chef James Lindquist of Red Sky Restaurant, they were preparing the evening’s menu: dumplings filled with just-picked mushrooms, steamed clams and mussels over freshly made pasta, halibut with a triple citrus beurre blanc, and lobster steamed in seawater and seaweed collected outside the inn. After Chef Lindquist deboned and skinned the halibut, he suggested they lay the skin out on a large rock near the shoreline. As if on cue, a majestic eagle swooped down to participate in the enjoyment of the evening’s delicacies – ensuring this “cooking adventure” was worthy of its name.

The eagles you see on your next trip to Acadia National Park may not be quite this “up close and personal,” but, if you plan your itinerary to prioritize wildlife viewing, you are likely to bring back photos—and memories—of eagles and much more. Acadia National Park protects over 40,000 acres on the beautiful and remote destination of Mount Desert Island, thus preserving the homes and habitats of dazzling birds, mammals, and other wildlife.

Don’t leave home without your binoculars. Considered one of the premier bird-watching areas in the country, Acadia has logged a record of 338 bird species, according to the National Park Service. Twenty-three species of warblers alone have been recorded as breeding in the park!

Eagle sightings have been common on the kayaking trips in Frenchman Bay and boat cruises to Frenchboro that I’ve taken during trips to Acadia National Park. In addition, when we kayak in Somes Sound, we paddle to a spot where we regularly see eagles.

Peregrine falcons are also an important species on the list. In the 1980s, Acadia National Park participated in a cooperative management plan to restore this endangered species. Today, when you scan the sky near the Precipice or Beech Cliffs, you can see the recovered peregrines diving to attack prey at a wondrous speed that can approach miles per hour.

You’ll spot cormorants, terns, and loons, too. As we were biking on our way from Eagle Lake to Witch Hole Pond, we spotted this majestic Great Blue Heron atop a beaver lodge.

Ranger-led bird walks take place between late spring and mid-fall. In addition, volunteers join the National Park Service in the fall to count the migrating hawks.

Seals and harbor porpoises are also common sightings on boat excursions around Acadia. You’re likely to see both harbor seals, as well as grey seals in the Gulf of Maine.

One morning, as we crossed the sandbar between Bar Harbor and Bar Island, we spotted this lost seal pup, which was ultimately rescued thanks to the College of the Atlantic’s program dedicated to marine animal preservation.

As exciting as it is to encounter a seal pup, you should never underestimate the appeal of a marsh full of frogs to a child.

And a boat cruise to retrieve wonders of the deep may end up intriguing not only children, but hard-to-impress adolescents.

Before we leave this topic, we return to Ann’s Point Inn, the site of the epicurean eagle, to answer the question, “How likely is it that we will see a moose on a visit to Acadia National Park?” According to the National Park Service, they do exist in the park, but are rarely seen. However, one morning guests looked out on the same shoreline where the eagle had landed to see this interloper.

This much-anticipated publishing event occurs every August and fuels bucket lists for avid travelers worldwide. It provides rankings not only of destinations, including cities, but also hotels, cruises, and airlines that “define the very best in travel.” Travel + Leisure boasts 4.8 million readers, who were invited to participate in the poll from December 1, 2012, to April 1, 2013.

Mount Desert Island has appeared on every list of Top Islands in the Continental U.S and Canada during the last five years, with the exception of 2011. In 2008 it was also ranked fifth among the Top 10 Islands in the World.

So, how did the Travel + Leisure editors organize their survey to uncover the “World’s Best”? Islands were evaluated on five characteristics: natural attractions/beaches, activities/sights, restaurants/food, people, value. Romance was optional!

Natural Attractions: Where the Mountains Meet the Sea

The natural attractions of Mount Desert Island are so great that Congress protected it as a national park in 1919, the first one east of the Mississippi. Today the park occupies about half of the entire island, which is about the size of Martha’s Vineyard. Within its boundaries, marked by an iconic rocky New England coastline, are 24 mountain peaks, rich boreal forests, glacial lakes, rolling meadows, wetlands, and dramatic rock formations. In 1877 Clara Barnes Martin wrote the first guidebook for Mount Desert Island, describing its unique beauty as “the only neighborhood of mountain and sea on all our Atlantic coast. These cliffs look down not on bay or lake, but upon broad ocean.”

Activities: From Rock Climbing to Curling Up with a Good Book

The national park challenges travelers with an array of activities and sights. From ranger-led lectures to sunset cruises in historic sailing sloops, days can be packed. Travelers usually start with visits to Cadillac Mountain, the tallest mountain on the eastern seaboard, as well as other top sights: the Park Loop Road, Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Jordan Pond, Eagle Lake, and the Bass Harbor Head Light. But then Acadia quickly lures hikers, bikers, climbers, and kayakers to explore more deeply. A variety of competent guides and outfitters are available to lead the way. Activities also include museums, galleries, local crafts fairs, and many settings just right for curling up with a good book.

Restaurants: Fresh from Maine’s Fishermen and Farmers

Maine is the state of fishermen and farmers. So, it is no surprise that Mount Desert Island delights foodies with fresh, seasonal menus from innovative local chefs. An exciting array of restaurants has cropped up in Mount Desert Island’s villages from Bar Harbor to Otter Creek to Southwest Harbor. In addition, traditional lobster pounds attract everyone to sample steamers, Maine shrimp, chowders of many varieties, lobster rolls, and, of course, steamed lobster. And whether it’s on a fresh white table cloth or knotty old picnic table, everyone has the blueberry pie.

People in DownEast Maine

Maine’s state motto is: “The way life should be.” That means that on a trip to Mount Desert Island you’re going to encounter folks who are genuine, trustworthy, hardworking, and value-oriented. As the joke goes, you know you’re in Maine, if you leave your keys in the car, and the car is still there in the morning. People are also ruthlessly practical. There’s also a joke that you know you’re in Maine when what you expect for Valentine’s is new snow tires. So, anticipate straightforward, calm, good-natured people who aren’t necessarily going to adjust their schedule to yours. And you may discover that the highlight of your trip may well be a visit to the hardware store.

Value

It’s a core value of locals that you need to get the right proportion of quality and quantity of goods and services for the price. And, depending on your own personal value system, Mount Desert Island is there to deliver. Whether you choose to stay in an ocean-side hotel in Bar Harbor or one of the campgrounds operated by the National Park Service, you can enjoy great value. This extends to the island’s restaurants, tours, and shopping. Best of all is the value—in terms of unique visual beauty–visitors receive for their $20 entrance fee to Acadia National Park.

Romance Is Never Optional

In recent years Mount Desert Island has become a popular spot for destination weddings. But sunset cruises and harbor-side dinners don’t have to be reserved exclusively for newlyweds. Especially in autumn the island seems full of hand-holding couples strolling down carriage rounds or exploring the quaint villages. Charming inns beckon visitors to relax on their porches in summertime and read in front of the fire in chillier seasons. Mount Desert Island is an appealing getaway for couples of all ages.