Buyer's Guide

The qualities that determine a natural or cultured pearl’s value are size, shape, color, luster, surface quality, nacre quality, and—for jewelry with two or more pearls—matching.

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What To Look For

Luster

Of the seven pearl value factors, luster might be the most important. Luster is what gives a natural or cultured pearl its unique beauty. Pearls with high luster have sharp bright reflections on the surface. Different pearl varieties have different standards for luster.

Surface

If surface characteristics are numerous or severe, they can affect the durability of the pearl and severely depress its value. Surface characteristics have less effect on the pearl’s beauty and value if they are few in number, or if they are minor enough to be hidden by a drill-hole or mounting.

Pearl body colors vary by variety. Although white and black are traditional, unusual colors are becoming more popular. Overtones in a pearl’s luster and the rainbow iridescence known as orient also add to the color of a pearl.

Nacre Thickness

Luster and nacre quality are closely related. If the nucleus is visible under the nacre, or if the pearl has a dull, chalky appearance, you can assume that the nacre is thin. This affects the luster as well as the durability of the pearl. Nacre thickness is evaluated to make sure that cultured pearls are durable as well as beautiful.

Size

In general, the larger the pearl, the more valuable it is. Different varieties come in different sizes: South Sea cultured pearls are the largest.

Matching

Jewelry designers sometimes deliberately mix colors, shapes, and sizes for unique effects, but for most pearl strands, earrings, or other multiple-pearl jewelry, the pearls should match in all the quality factors.

Pearl Quality Factors: The Comprehensive Guide

Tips & Advice

1. Consider mixing pearl colors and origins.

Although single-color strands are still the most common, mixing pearl colors and types is a fresh way to wear pearls. Multicolor strands often contain rare colors because it is too difficult to find enough of them to create a whole strand.

2.
Add versatility with an adjustable clasp.

Traditional strands range from 14-16-inch chokers to 17-18 inch princess to longer matinee, opera, and rope lengths. New clasps allow you to create different lengths. For example, a long strand might be worn single, double, or as a shorter necklace.

3.
Have your pearls restrung before they break.

Although pearls last generations, the string they are knotted on may not. Be sure to have your pearls checked regularly and restring them if there are signs of wear.

Questions & Answers

Q

Why are freshwater pearls so much less expensive than Akoya or South Sea cultured pearls?

A

Freshwater cultured pearls are one of the jewelry world’s biggest bargains. Production is so large that lovely lustrous examples are affordable, particularly in off-round shapes. One reason that they are plentiful is that each mollusk produces dozens of pearls, unlike some others, which only grow one pearl per shell.

Q

Why do pearl strands have knots in between each pearl?

A

Knots help keep you from losing all your pearls if the string breaks, and experts recommend knots in between each pearl to prevent them from rubbing against each other.

Q

I have a strand of pearls that shows too much string: can it be fixed?

A

Over the years, the string stretches and weakens. Your pearls can easily be restrung, just ask your local jeweler for advice.

Q

Should a strand of Tahitian pearls be black to be valuable?

A

Although Tahitian cultured pearls are thought of as black most are shades of gray. Some are even copper-colored, pistachio green, or taupe. These unusual colors are popular, either alone or in mixed strands. What makes these pearls exceptional is their iridescent purple, green, turquoise, or pink orient.

Q

What are “chocolate pearls”?

A

Chocolate pearls are Tahitian cultured pearls bleached to a uniform brown color. Because this requires relatively expensive Tahitian pearls as a starting point, many companies now market dyed brown pearls. Rare, rich natural-brown Tahitian pearls are available but exceptionally rare.

Q

What’s a Majorca “Pearl”?

A

Majorca Pearl is a brand name of imitation pearls that were originally manufactured in Majorca, Spain. They are glass balls covered in lacquer.