MY, MY, was this place a sty, according to Health Department reports. "Most of the violations are repeat and chronic lack of proper food handling practices," states the most recent report, more than six months ago. For example? Here's one to think of when ordering up that plate of chow: "Dishes were washed by hand with little water and a dirty rag." Then there's the repetitive complaint of flies, dirty floors, grungy meat-slicing machine, debris around the back and front of the store.

As if the dish-washing procedures left something to be desired, consider this: "The hand sink is dirty ... has not been used in a long time."

With this in mind, we dropped in around lunch to a busy crowd lined up in front of the food-splattered sneeze guard. A quick trip to the bathroom led us past an older woman squatted on the floor rolling up dumplings. The bathroom resembled a Marine obstacle course, what with its towering stack of boxes that must be straddled to use the facilities.

Although not exactly the onramp to the Hygiene Highway, My My still held the promise of tasty bao (doughy filled bun). Alas, it was a promise broken. To paraphrase Ruth Reichl, this menu item sucked. Dry, tasteless dough saddled a sponge-like core of, of ... something gray. No herbs, no seasonings and no reason to risk botulism. However, My My whipped out a stunning cà-phe phin súa dá (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk).