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On reflection the tastings yesterday become more and more interesting. Yes, we saw what will undoubtedly become great wines, but even at the top of the league there was variation. The problem, if we can call it that, was that winemakers had just so much time to decide what to do – not all of the choices will have been well-made.

I suspect the best wines will come from great work in the vineyard followed by minimal intervention in the winery. A great example was Potensac, from the stable of M. Delon at Leoville Las Cases. It was beautifully balanced, but not at all forced, which allowed the great ingredients to shine.

Today we begin the massive tastings at the Union des Grands Crus, where most of the properties show their wines. It will be these I think that confirm our view of 2009. It’s good, but just how good…