1. Used sewing machines — go for the really old ones. The all metal ones. I have some that are over 50 years old and still run gorgeously, and have never needed replacement.

2. Sewing patterns — I am newly in love with the Otome no Sewing books. They run about $20, more or less, depending on where you get them. Mine was from Amazon, and it was either a few dollars over or a few dollars under, and I believe it had Prime shipping. There are an amazing number of patterns and tutorials, all lolita, in multiple sizes, with illustrations on how to alter for fit, which I did have to do. Just make sure you have a (preferably clear) straight edge, extra paper, and a lot of tape. You do have to trace the patterns before cutting them out as they’re all layered on the same page. The instructions are in Japanese, but the instruction illustrations and photographs are excellent.

I’ve heard similarly good things about the GosuRori books (same company?), but have no personal experience with them. Yet.

Vintage Vogue has some lovely things too, though with the list price at over $20 for one pattern, I suggest waiting for sales. 2902 is a nice blank slate, though it will need to be shortened. I’m 5’10, and it still came to a short tea length on me. 8701, not vintage at all, has a cute little blank slate of a dress. I have made it as intended, and again with a scalloped hem and puff sleeves, and it is adorable either way, though I felt it needed to be lengthened a little. The jacket is a nice shape, too, and similar to one I really liked from Mary Magdalene. Just be aware that if you are plus sized, you will likely have to taper the sleeves toward the wrists, unless you actually want to have cuffs the size of your upper arms.