The Victorian-style tea at Government House is served in the Henry Newlands Ballroom. Photo by CJ Katz for the Leader-Post.CJ Katz

Bonnie Racz prepares shortbread for the top of the Queen Elizabeth cake. Photo by CJ Katz for the Leader-Post.CJ Katz

The tea at Government House has been served the first weekend of every month for 23 years. Photo by CJ Katz for the Leader-Post.CJ Katz

Jacqueline Wight (centre) is the ballroom coordinator, and works with the servers, pictured here with Eva Wasserle (left) and Carol Johnston to present an old-time experience. Photo by CJ Katz for the Leader-Post.CJ Katz

REGINA — Tradition is the cornerstone of the Victorian tea at Government House. From the period dress of the servers to the Queen Elizabeth cake and the loose leaf tea, the monthly tea is about preserving as much of the past as possible in a world of cellphones and wireless Internet.

For Jacqueline Wight, coordinator of the ballroom, it’s tradition that motivates her to be fastidious about the presentation the room and place settings for the tea.

“I’m particular, a little anal,” she admits.

Today, like the first tea held by the Government House Historical Society in December 1990, the points on the floral tablecloth overlays have pointed north toward the front of the Henry Newlands ballroom. The cream and sugar bowls are placed in a certain position on the table and doily placemats are used because “that’s the way it’s always been done,” says Wight of the many details.

The same goes for the kitchen. The menu for the monthly teas, which are held the first Saturday and Sunday of every month, has changed little. Created by a team led by Betty Westmoreland 23 years ago, the tea was organized to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Government House. Three of the items served at that tea continue to be enjoyed today: scones, Queen Elizabeth cake and lemon tarts.

Sheila Carson, overall coordinator for the teas, says the menu still continues to be scratch made. Each tea consists of a gold rimmed plate presenting a scone, a scoop of strawberry butter, three finger sandwiches — egg on brown, cucumber on white, and ham on brown and white, and a single gherkin. Dainties include lemon tarts, Queen Elizabeth cake adorned with a shortbread crown, and a seasonal dessert.

Leona Howe, who is in charge of the children’s menu, creates a special sandwich and dainty for each tea. The September tea, for example, featured sandwiches in the shape of a football and a cupcake. Tea is sipped from an elegant espresso-sized cup.

The tea brew is also special. Although not the same as the original (that brew is no longer available), the tea served today is a black loose leaf from Nova Scotia.

And it’s always served in a true teacup, one that is shorter than a coffee cup with a wider mouth.

It takes about 45 volunteers over the course of one week to prepare each tea. Preparations begin on Tuesday with shopping, followed by prep days and then the tea on Saturday and Sunday. Everyone, except two dishwashers and one busser, gives of their time. On Monday, any leftovers are delivered to Waterston House.

Some, like 80-year-old Gladys Watt, have been an integral part of the tea for decades. She has volunteered since 1991.

“I’ve been here since the first year of the teas. At that time the jams were made from fruit grown here at Government House.”

Over the years she’s worked various stations but for the past decade she’s been in charge of brewing the tea.

“It’s been my honour and privilege to make the tea,” she says proudly.

For many guests, the monthly tea is a ritual — a chance to meet up with friends, enjoy a cup, and nibble on finger sandwiches and scones.

Joyce Wellings, 89, has been coming monthly for at least eight years. Another regular, Evelyn Rogers, 80, says the tea “is a hidden gem in the city.”

She has been making trips to Government House since she was three years old and lived across the street. Some come as part of a regular group, while others, such as young ladies in pretty dresses come to celebrate a birthday or simply to experience a walk in the past.

The teas are held the first Saturday and Sunday of every month at 1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. Each 72-person seating is about 75 minutes. Reservations only by calling (639) 571-7123. Cost is $7 for children and $10 for adults.

Profits from the teas go to support the preservation of Government House.

Lemon Curd Tarts

These little tarts have been served since the first tea in 1990.

Makes 12 small tarts

12 pre-baked small tart shells

½ cup fresh lemon juice

zest of 1 lemon

1/3 cup butter

1 cup white sugar

3 eggs

1 pint fresh raspberries

In a double boiler or in a metal bowl set over a pot of simmering water, whisk the eggs and sugar. Add lemon juice and continue whisking until mixture thickens; add butter and continue cooking 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Place plastic wrap directly onto the filling and refrigerate until cold. Place a small dollop into each cooked tart shell. Top with one raspberry. Chill until ready to serve.

Government House Victorian Tea

Henry Newlands Ballroom

4607 Dewdney Ave.

Held the first Sat. and Sun. of every month

1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. seatings

Reservations only: (639) 571-7123

You can reach CJ via her website at www.cjkatz.com or follow her on Twitter@CJKatz.

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