A lot of jiggery pockery for one pitch! This section of rock can been seen while spending a lot of time belaying beginners up 'Sweet Dreams'. It was put up for reasons of scratching and itch rather then getting from the bottom to the top. Using double ropes rap in from 2 ring bolts at the top of the of the Sweet Dream 17 'Variant Finish' to the end of the traverse pitch belay anchor. Rap down again over to the right to a 3 U bolt semi hanging belay.

Climb right into the corner aiming for some fixed hangers (placed for some other climb going up the corner) As you climb in the corner you need to unclip some draws behind you so to reduce rope drag. From the fixed hangers follow U bolts out around the corner out the exposed orange face across to the right hand side out the head wall up to the ledge where there is a double U bolt belay. It doesn't go any where from here as the rock looks dubious. Back jump to clean or bring up seconder then rap off left to Sweet Dream's terror traverse. Then climb up 'Sweet Dreams'.

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.

Route Grade Citations

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Lead Styles

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Check out what is happening on The Sweetest Dream (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.