Ok I jst did this, have a question.. The radar powers up and is bright then it gets dimmer.. i cant tell if thats how it always has been and i never noticed it or if it is due to a- a poor connection with the wire tap? b- i bent the 4 amp fuse a little and bent it back or c- idk ?

Ok I jst did this, have a question.. The radar powers up and is bright then it gets dimmer.. i cant tell if thats how it always has been and i never noticed it or if it is due to a- a poor connection with the wire tap? b- i bent the 4 amp fuse a little and bent it back or c- idk ?

help please ? thanks !

Don't know the reason, but I don't recall my V1 ever doing that. My friends, when we use the shoddy wire would beep once the continuously click, so it was getting power but it wasn't getting power properly. Maybe it's not getting the power it needs properly, for whatever reason.

I noticed a few people have tried this method by now, maybe someone else can chime in about reduced display lighting/power, but it's not something that I ever recall experiencing.

Seeing that it's come up in conversation a few times lately, I've decided to put my DIY back on M3post and keep it up, so long as certain people don't start going absolutely bat shit crazy again.

Edit: I've incorporated some minor updates into the DIY guide.

Dude, all I can say is THANK YOU for posting this DIY. It worked well and the steps made sure I didn't F up. I didn't actually take out the A-Pillar though, I just inserted the wire into the rubber lining along the door which also hides it just as well.

Btw, the "5" fuse slot works just as well for the 2013 model year.

Lastly, I can vouch it's not as hard as it looks. The snaking of the wire and hiding it becomes pretty apparent when you're working through it.

I did the install yesterday on a 2013 M3 following the directions in this great thread.

A couple of notes;
- Number 5 on the fuse block works fine for a 2013.
- When the A-pillar cover is removed, you can route the cable straight down to the side of the dash, without going all the way down into the side panel and come back up. There is a bundle of cables going down in there already. I used a big sturdy tie-wrap a a fish tool.
- I put my secondary display for the V1 between the steering column and the instrument panel . Using a big tie-wrap (the type used for airco ducts) as a fish tool I was able, with some patience, to push the cable all the way from the glove compartment to under the dash under the steering wheel.

I did the install yesterday on a 2013 M3 following the directions in this great thread.

A couple of notes;
- Number 5 on the fuse block works fine for a 2013.
- When the A-pillar cover is removed, you can route the cable straight down to the side of the dash, without going all the way down into the side panel and come back up. There is a bundle of cables going down in there already. I used a big sturdy tie-wrap a a fish tool.
- I put my secondary display for the V1 between the steering column and the instrument panel . Using a big tie-wrap (the type used for airco ducts) as a fish tool I was able, with some patience, to push the cable all the way from the glove compartment to under the dash under the steering wheel.

How are you doing the concealed installation of the head unit (that I assume is the reason for using the secondary display)?

It is impossible to completely conceal the head unit, as it has to be able to pick up the signals (radar and laser). But I wanted it to be a little more out of the way than to the driver's side of the rear-view mirror, where I had it originally.
Now I mounted it high up and very close to the passenger side of the rear-view mirror. Having it there requires the second display unit, as the main unit is now out of my line of sight when I'm driving.
The position of the second display at the bottom of the gauge pod is perfect.

It is impossible to completely conceal the head unit, as it has to be able to pick up the signals (radar and laser). But I wanted it to be a little more out of the way than to the driver's side of the rear-view mirror, where I had it originally.
Now I mounted it high up and very close to the passenger side of the rear-view mirror. Having it there requires the second display unit, as the main unit is now out of my line of sight when I'm driving.
The position of the second display at the bottom of the gauge pod is perfect.

There are shops that can conceal the unit in the rear headrest. And have the secondary above the ash tray or above the steering column.

There are shops that can conceal the unit in the rear headrest. And have the secondary above the ash tray or above the steering column.

True, there are a few shops that can do this, but from what I hear, this eliminates laser and possibly weakens radar reception ability. I know conventional knowledge goes that if you get hit by laser it's too late so I guess that's moot, but if the radar portion is true, then at least it might be something worth thinking about.

True, there are a few shops that can do this, but from what I hear, this eliminates laser and possibly weakens radar reception ability. I know conventional knowledge goes that if you get hit by laser it's too late so I guess that's moot, but if the radar portion is true, then at least it might be something worth thinking about.

2) Yes, you will lose laser detection capability, but that isn't that big of a deal, as like you said, once you get hit w/laser, you're done for. Couple the radar detector w/a laser jammer. As far as radar diminishing radar detection, from personal experience, I can tell you that's false. It was also debunked in this video from Alekshop.

Done. Thanks OP for posting DIY. Couldn't have done it without the pics and instructions. I tried to hide the wire the lazy way(pics 4&5). Didn't want to take apart the A-pillar trim. One thing I did differently was feed the V1 end through an opening by the base of the foot rest(pic 1) then run it up to the V1. It won't interfere with opening/closing the glove compartment(pics 2&3). People will see the wire when they open the door(pic 6), but I'm a happy camper seeing the device working(last pic). I feel like accomplished something and then I saw the thread about a guy installed a SC by himself. I'm not worthy. hahaha

Done. Thanks OP for posting DIY. Couldn't have done it without the pics and instructions. I tried to hide the wire the lazy way(pics 4&5). Didn't want to take apart the A-pillar trim. One thing I did differently was feed the V1 end through an opening by the base of the foot rest(pic 1) then run it up to the V1. It won't interfere with opening/closing the glove compartment(pics 2&3). People will see the wire when they open the door(pic 6), but I'm a happy camper seeing the device working(last pic). I feel like accomplished something and then I saw the thread about a guy installed a SC by himself. I'm not worthy. hahaha

Nice job, SSII + FR is a great combo, especially when the car has no tint. That contrast makes the car look classy.

Nice job, SSII + FR is a great combo, especially when the car has no tint. That contrast makes the car look classy.

Thanks man. I wish I can get tints on my car. It's illegal in my state to have tints in the front. I don't even want dark ones. Would love 50% all around. Wouldn't do tints just for rear and back windows, looks funny. At least in NY, CT and PA, 70% is allowed. lucky

Decided to install my hardwire kit from my previous car at midnight since i couldnt sleep...

After getting the wires all tucked in, realized that my ad a circuit is for a large circuit... Tried to find other oes to tap into but was unsuccessful... I guess i need to go to the auto parts store for the mini ad a circuit...