While I was very sad to leave Kea, I was happy that I had one last night in Athens. Aglaia and Costas had recommended a wonderful boutique hotel in the chic and cultural neighborhood of Kolanaki called The Periscope Hotel. It’s a member of the Yes! Hotels group, which stands for “Y”oung “E”nthusiastic “S”eductive. Each of their boutique hotels prides themselves on being creative but comfortable spaces with excellent customer service. Aglaia said that the restaurant at the Periscope, π Box Eatery, was excellent and that the chef was doing very interesting things with the menu. So I was very excited to stay there and try out this restaurant. It did not disappoint!

The hotel doesn’t look like much from the outside and the lobby is really tiny, but don’t let that dissuade you! The rooms are spacious and light, even with the dark submarine gray built-in closet and workspace. There are floor to ceiling windows and lots of natural light that can be blocked out by the push of a button lowering the automatic shades. Even the bathroom is quite large with a full sized shower and a full sized shower curtain, an uncommon sight in Europe. (I’ll never understand how half curtains or half glass walls are considered effective; I always end up soaking the entire bathroom and using my extra towels to mop up the water. I think full sized shower curtains would be a huge seller!) The plentiful and pleasantly scented bath amenities were made by a company called Korres Natural Products, a Greek company that focuses on homeopathic remedies, organic and natural products. There was the wonderful added touch of bath robes and pairs of nice flip flops for both him and her (my oldest daughter quickly absconded with mine as I unpacked and I remarked that I should have taken both pairs home! Oh well!)

In keeping with the submarine theme, there are plenty of gray walls and steel accents throughout the hotel. For added fun, there is a video monitor in each hallway linked to an actual periscope on the hotel’s roof offering guests various vista views of Athens.

But I wasn’t there just for the fabulous room and the submarine themed decor. I was really there for the food!

The award winning and renowned Executive Chef, Christoforos Peskias, was born in Cyprus and studied business administration at Boston University. While he was a student, cooking became a passion for him and when he returned to Greece he worked as a chef at the Dash Restaurant in Kifisia. In 1992, he came back to the states to study alongside the famous chefs, Charlie Trotter and Jackie Pluton. For the next six years he worked in several kitchens, including Balthazar. But even more impressively, he returned to Europe and worked under such notables as Ferran Adria, Mark Menaux and Joel Robuchon. Influences of each can be seen in his menus today. From 2003-2008 he took over the kitchen at the now closed 48 Restaurant and garnered it a place on Restaurant magazine’s Top 100 list for both 2007 and 2008. In 2010 he opened the first Π box, in Kifisia, and recently, a second, smaller version at the Periscope Hotel where I would dine.

I was thrilled that my new friends from Maine who had also spent the week on Kea wanted to come to dinner with me that night at the hotel’s restaurant. It was so nice to have such great company on my last night in Greece!

When we arrived at 9pm there was only one other table dining. We were very early by Greek standards! But the restaurant soon filled and the room was buzzing.

Our first server was not very familiar with the wine list and deferred our tasting questions to her manager, who found us the perfect crisp and fruity white wine to accompany our meal at a reasonable price as well.

The eclectic menu had several fun titles for several of the dishes. We ordered three appetizers to share. The first, “pan fried Ladotyri cheese with lemon marmalade from giam” was delicious! Ladotyri cheese is made from sheep’s milk or goat’s milk or a combination of the two. It’s a hard salty cheese that is stored and aged in olive oil. On it’s own, it has a very strong flavor but this melted version had a crispy crust of cheese with a gooey melted center and was a perfect balance of tart and sweet, made possible by the lemon giam (aka jam). It doesn’t look beautiful but it tasted amazing. I loved it!

The next dish was entitled “street food of a different kind”. This dish is a take on Athens’s most popular hot dog cart at Mavili Square’s fare. Think a kraut dog, upped ten notches. This version is a mustard laced, slightly spicy sausage served with a savory stewed cabbage and a fried egg all together in one cast iron pan. We devoured it!

The third dish was calamari in a deep red zesty sauce.

Then they brought us a few more appetizers to taste while we were waiting, a fresh tomato pizza bread and an Asian inspired cold chicken, rice noodle bowl. Both were quite good and had excellent flavors, but the fact that the chicken rice noodle bowl was actually a cold dish was a bit of a surprise.

By the time our main course arrived we were rather full! One dish that was ordered was a “hamburger with three sauces”, a large American style burger served with three different sauces, each ranging in spice level. Two of us ordered the “Tandoori chicken with mashed potatoes”. I thought my chicken was a bit spongy to the touch and went to send it back for more cooking only to be told that it could not be cooked further. This was a bit shocking to me but the manager returned and assured me that it had been cooked thoroughly for several hours at a low temperature. Ah! Sous vide! Now it all made sense. The light bulb went off in my head. You see, restaurants in NYC are not allowed to use this method for fear of bacteria, so the only sous vide you can try is at home or in other cities and I must admit, I have not tried very many dishes prepared in this method. While not a visually appealing dish, this tender, juicy piece of chicken was coated in a tangy tandoori marinade and sat atop a fragrant and very flavorful yogurt and dill sauce which also served as the “gravy” for the mashed potatoes. Unfortunately, I was too full to eat the entire thing and had to leave a large portion left over.

Feeling quite full and satiated, all of us agreed that we would bypass dessert and head out for a quick evening stroll around the neighborhood. The bill for dinner was very reasonable for the three of us with a bottle of wine. We found out that the menu changes daily so if you go, your menu may differ from ours. But if you see these dishes, be sure to try them! You will be happy you did!

We then said our goodbyes and I retreated to my room for the evening and slept soundly through the night. The bed, while very firm, was incredibly comfortable, reminding me of memory foam and the pillows were soft but plump and offered a good amount of support. I had a great night’s sleep!

In the morning, I was delighted to try the restaurant’s breakfast buffet that was included in the room rate. There was a large selection of cheeses and charcuteries, fresh fruit, cereals, grains and yogurts. There were also several loaves of homemade breads that you could slice yourself and a wide assortment of pastries, including muffins, croissants and bite sized baklavas. If a guest desired eggs or omelets, they could make a request and it would be made to order. From fresh juices to strong coffees and lots of varieties of foods, there was nothing that hadn’t been thought of. It was a good, solid breakfast to start the day.

Unfortunately, my stay at the Periscope Hotel was short as I was heading to the airport to return home that day, so a shower and some packing was all that was left for me to do But I vowed to return, and I would certainly stay at the Periscope Hotel again or recommend it to anyone looking for a reasonably priced hotel in a great neighborhood.

With the arrival of my new friend and driver, Loukas, to take me to the airport, my Greek adventure was sadly at its official end. I had the most amazing time there and am plotting how to return and next time, bring the family.

My two days in Athens were a whirlwind of sightseeing, eating and socializing with new friends. It was over before it had a chance to really begin! I had made lists of restaurants and food items that I really wanted to explore but did not make much of a dent at all in those lists!

Having arrived so late on Friday night, I was really incredibly exhausted and just stayed in and chatted with my hostess from Athens, Eleni. She was so gracious and welcomed me with open arms and showed me how to work all of the important things in her apartment- such as the lights and the front door. I showered and fell into bed.

I awoke early on Saturday and visited the Synagogue Beth Shalom. Services were followed by a lovely meal at the Chabad of Athens. I really enjoy learning about how Jews around the world live and maintain communities in areas where it is often difficult to sustain such a community. Especially when things such as kosher meats are not available and must be shipped in at very high costs. I am truly lucky to live in NY where everything you want to find, kosher or not is very easy!

They were incredibly gracious hosts and I was so happy to meet two other ladies who lead very interesting lives and we all discussed the various adventures we are on. One of them had recently traveled to Florence for a culinary vacation and spoke very highly of the place she attended. Seems there may be an addition to my ever growing list of places to visit!

After lunch, I took a leisurely stroll through Athens and proceeded to get very lost. I knew I was very close to where I wanted to be but I just kept going in circles. Finally, I broke down and hailed a taxi and showed the driver where I wanted to go. Of course he then became very lost as well! I have found that the English translations of the Greek words on maps don’t mean a thing! They have at least three different phonetic spellings for each word you are trying to translate. The driver apologized several times and in the end once I arrived at my destination, refused to accept any money from me! (Which is a very rare thing apparently!)

Back at the apartment, Eleni, made a beautiful cheese pie (she said it was her first time, but it was perfect and I would never had guessed that it was a new recipe!). Two of her friends had come over for an impromptu dinner, and were busily making salad and slicing fruit. They insisted that I join them and I am so glad I did! We ate salad and pie followed by a full fat frozen yogurt with caramel sauce and a sweet yellow melon. It was the perfect dinner and so nice just to sit on the terrace, have dinner and chat.

Avra, Ive and Eleni

Because the sun sets so late in the evening, Eleni suggested that I go and visit the Parliament building to see the changing of the guard. The Parliament of Greece has been the scene of several protests and even some violence in recent days, but for the majority, it has been rather peaceful if not very noisy.

Syntagma Square lies at the foot of Parliament and is currently occupied by a “tent city” reminiscent of Tompkins Square Park in NYC in the late 1980’s or the” sit ins” we’ve seen on TV from the late 60’s and early 70’s. There are several street vendors selling their wares as well as food carts with nuts and gyros set up throughout the park. And of course, there are the protestors, a mix of old and young Greeks holding signs and flags, chanting their slogans. There is more of a commune vibe there than a violent one.

You can see all the pomp and circumstance of the changing of the guards, called Evzones, in their traditional garb, which occurs on the hour, every hour of each day. I advise bringing a large zoom lens if you intend to take pictures there because of the layers of security between the crowd and the guards. There are two rows of barricades set up and a row of riot police and a row of Greek Army guards. They were quite accommodating to the tourists that were there moving around to allow them to photograph the changing procession. It’s best to go in the early morning since most of the protestors show up in the late afternoon and stay through the evening.

I only had my small camera with me at the time but I was able to return on Sunday to take proper photos where you could see actually see the guards. One of the guards noticed I was snapping photos of them, rather than the protestors, and shot me a quick smile which made my day. I felt badly for them having to “perform” with all the chaos going on around the square.

Strolling down to the Plaka, you can window shop along the long pedestrian road but they have many of the same chain stores that we have in the US; Sephora, Zara etc. It is all very touristy. But if you continue past there, you can view the Acropolis which can be seen from several spots below in all it’s glory, lit up at night. I stopped at a café for some coffee and then continued my night wanderings ending up in the neighborhood just south of the Acropolis. Even though I was wandering very dark streets at well past 11pm, I felt perfectly safe and no one looked very suspicious at all. I even returned home on the Metro and it was crowded with Greek youths on their way out to the clubs and bars. I was told that there isn’t so much violent crime as there are petty crimes, like robbery etc.

Sunday morning I awoke rather late (jetlagged still!) and visited the New Acropolis Museum. Inaugurated in the summer of 2009, it is located just 300 meters south of the Acropolis. During the excavation of the museum, an ancient Athenian city was unearthed and the museum installed large glass floors and more than 100 concrete pillars to raise the museum so that the archaeological excavation could continue. The museum is a beautiful example of modern architecture with stunning views of the Acropolis. The galleries hold many of the Parthenon sculptures, including a specifically designed concrete core in the same dimensions and orientation as the Parthenon itself that will house the entire temple frieze. I say “will” because it seems that there are still over 2/3 of the sculptures that were removed in 1799 by the seventh Earl of Elgin and taken to England. Many were sold to the British Museum which refuses to return them to Greece. At least for now!

You can also see finds from everyday Athenian life throughout all of the historic periods throughout the museum. I was fascinated with the ingenuity of a 6” doll that was made of marble from the mid 6th Century B.C. that had moveable arms and legs. Also, during the Archaic period, the early Greeks affixed small discs (called meniscoi) on the heads of statues to protect them from bird droppings. Even then, the pigeons were a nuisance! Some of the best parts of the museum are the sculptures. You can still see where the hair of the women has been dyed.

There is also a terrific short video that gives an excellent overview of the building of the Acropolis with several fascinating details about it’s optical illusions.

For lunch, the New Acropolis Museum has an excellent restaurant where you can find salads (5-6 Euros), sandwiches (Turkey, Salami or Feta) (4 Euros),and specialty dishes such as Veal with eggplant and mashed potatoes from Thessaloniki for 12 Euros. They even have full kids’ meals of pasta with sauce or meatballs and french-fries with milk and a biscuit for just 6 Euros. Of course there is a wide selection of wine by the bottle and by the glass (3.5 Euros), as well as bottles of beer from around the world. This is a real bargain considering a Diet Coke (Coke Light) is 2.20 Euros for a very small bottle. Better to have wine! Desserts range from 5-6 Euros and you can choose from something light like Lemon Mousse or Yoghurt Ice Cream with Sweet Preserves to Walnut Cake with Mastilha Ice Cream.

I really enjoyed the Tomato salad with Capers, Basil and Dakos from Crete. Dakos is often called “Greek bruschetta”. It’s a very hard bread made from twice baked rusks of either whole wheat or barley flour. Because it is so hard, it’s placed to soak up the olive oil underneath the salad and broken up once it has become less hurtful to your teeth. This salad was so simple yet so satisfying. Consisting of just tomatoes, capers, fresh basil, olives, oil and a touch of salt and pepper, it can easily be recreated at home.

I also tried the Meatballs with Mint which was served with a dry garlicky yogurt sauce but I would avoid these as they seemed as though they were coated with a batter and baked until quite dry and crumbly. Although the presentation was pretty, they were quite flavorless and would have been better if they had been fried and left with some fat in them.

Thinking that I had escaped the hottest part of the day by 3pm, I made my way to the Acropolis to visit the Parthenon. I was mistaken! The temperature must have been near 100 degrees at the top and the sun just bore down on you. I really wished I had brought a hat. In spite of the heat and the sun, I am so happy to have seen the Parthenon. It’s really an incredible feat of architecture and perseverance when you think of it. Built in just 9 years and made of 16,500 pieces of marble, the architects took into consideration how it would look visually and purposely, gradually sloped the sides from the center downwards while making the corner columns wider. The Parthenon was also destroyed several times though the centuries and had been both a mosque and a church.

The other monuments on the hill include the Herodes Atticus Theatre which is still used today for musical productions, plays and stage performances. It would be wonderful to be able to see a production there, sitting in the warm outside air surrounded by ancient beauty.

In addition to these beautiful sights, the panoramic view of Athens is incredible. You don’t realize just how large the city is and how densely populated until you see it from above. The entire way around the Acropolis is just like this!

For just 12 Euros, your ticket to the Acropolis also includes entrance to several other sites such as the Ancient Agora, the Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos and Kerameikos itself, the Museum of the Ancient Agora,the North slope of Acropolis, Olympieio, the Roman Agora of Athens and the South Slope of Acropolis. It is well worth the price and the ticket can be used over several days, as it is a lot to take in all at once. I made it only to two of the additional sites before I threw in the towel for the day.

So, while I did not see nearly all of the things I wanted to, I did see quite a bit and I’m thrilled that I even had the opportunity to see as much as I did, and to meet so many wonderful people during my stay in Athens.

I will have one night left in Athens after Kea. I am staying in a hotel near the Plaka because I heard that the restaurant was quite good there, so I am excited to try at least one that is on my list!

Next stop, Kea!

Travel Tip #1- Bring a roll of toilet paper with you in your bag, or have tissues readily available. Not all bathrooms at sightseeing destinations have toilet paper.

Travel Tip #2- A hat and sunscreen are incredibly important when visiting sights on tops of mountains. Also, bringing your own water bottles and snacks will save you many Euros at the top if you should become thirsty or hungry!

Thursday night I boarded an overnight flight on Lufthansa from JFK to Frankfurt where I would be changing planes to begin my Greek adventure. I have flown other foreign airlines and I have to say, they are really a no frills carrier. The seats are rather cramped, and the food was just not very good at all. It might come a shock, but yes, I like airline food, well, some of it anyways. The lentil and wheat-berry salad on Air France is divine! But food on my flight was rather disappointing and tiny portions. (Why do I only get a quarter of a brownie and half a strawberry? Such a tease!) Well, it didn’t matter much, because eating at midnight with your eyes falling shut is not so much fun anyways.

During my rather lengthy lay over, I discovered the most amazing thing at the Frankfurt airport- the SHOWER room. That’s right! For a mere 6 euros you can have an entire hot shower room all to yourself with towels, shampoo, body wash, and even a blow dryer! It was the best 6 euros I have ever spent! Thankfully I had packed a change of clothes in my carry-on so I didn’t even have to put back on the grimy, smelly clothes I took off. They went in the front pocket of my laptop bag to be dealt with later. This, as it turns out, was a saving grace…(more on that in a minute!)

So I boarded my flight to Athens, an hour late, exhausted, unsure of exactly what time or what day it was. I felt completely disheveled, but happy to be clean. And of course, terrified. (I really hate flying and exhaustion just exasperates it to the nth degree!) My seat mates were really awesome though! I always sit on the aisle and in the middle was a delightful Swedish woman and by the window a charming young Canadian man. We spoke the entire way here. It was really great to hit it off and have so much in common with people you just met. But better still, they kept me sane during my silent panic attacks and I owe them a tremendous lot of gratitude!

I left them both at the baggage claim and went in search of the metro. Knowing that I have limited funds, the thought of taking a taxi, although incredibly appealing, was just not in the budget. They are very, very expensive here! Any cash I have needs to be spent on FOOD! (and snow globes for the kids.) The metro is brand new, clean and gets you everywhere in the city. Plus it’s really cheap!

I figured out how to work the kiosk and got my ticket. It was quite simple. Then I actually saw the young man from the plane and we interpreted the metro map and determined that we were traveling in the same direction for most of the trip. Near the end, we would split off and take the same train line but in opposite directions. It was great to have a travel buddy for my first metro experience. Especially since I had a few large bags with me which screams “tourist”!

The ride on the metro from the airport to the center of Athens is about 25 minutes and costs just 8 euros. Its a real bargain versus the taxi charge.

We changed trains at Syntagma station. It seems this station is the hub for several of the lines. It is also the one to be the most careful and prudent at. No sooner did I leave my new friend, and attempt to board the metro with bags in tow, did I turn to see a man with his arm in the front pocket of my laptop bag that was atop my large duffel bag that I was dragging onto the train! He had a jacket covering his arm, but it was elbow deep in my bag with my dirty clothes beginning to spew out from it! It happened so very, very fast and then he was gone! And sadly, so was my dirty underwear. I am not sure if they fell out or if he took them by mistake thinking they were my wallet. Whatever the case- Welcome to Athens!

Today’s travel tip #1– You should learn the language of the airlines you are flying. The attendants will go on for 20 minutes in their native tongues, but when it comes time for the translation to English, it will be all of 2 minutes. I am missing out on something there! I am sure the native speakers are having warm chocolate chip cookies and milk somewhere in the back, while if I’m lucky, I’ll be told what channel the in-flight entertainment is on.

Today’s travel tip #2– Divide and conquer! Never keep all of your money together. Divide it up into several different spots that are the least likely to be found. Of course, you’ll have to remember that you slid that 20 euro into your toothbrush holder before you put your wet toothbrush back.