If you wanted the look of the red tow hooks then you could get an extra set of bayonet tabs and weld the tow hooks on as posted. Not sure how much I would trust to be used in an actual recover situation. I would be concerned about the end that locks into base plate. I think it is strong enough for towing but not sure about possible stress of being recovered. Of course that would depend on about it is dug in or stuck.

Yeah, I don't want to mess with the approach angle of the facia. Don't want it to get ripped off by accident. I am thinking of mounting the breakaway switch on a flat part of the facia at the top of the lower grill area close to the bottom of the license plate but will need to see if it will screw into metal of the bumper or not. Will look at it closer next time I work on it.

ldsoles1066 THANKS THANKS THANKS! Appreciate the time you took to post your work and pics. You did a GREAT job. Looks very clean! If you took more pictures and posted them somewhere, I’d like to see them.

I do have more photos. Thinking I may add my photos into an album. If I do then I will post a link to them. Did not want to add too many photos to this thread.

Yeah, I don't want to mess with the approach angle of the facia. Don't want it to get ripped off by accident. I am thinking of mounting the breakaway switch on a flat part of the facia at the top of the lower grill area close to the bottom of the license plate but will need to see if it will screw into metal of the bumper or not. Will look at it closer next time I work on it.

Sounds good. I'll be following your efforts.

I'm planning on trading in the CR-V for a Limited AD2 when I get home from FL next month. Will probably install the tow equip like you have.

On the breakaway switch, I had a defective one from Brake Buddy that would trigger false breakaways during hard rains. Burnt up a couple sets of pads and rotors on the toad. Break Buddy mailed me a new switch that solved the problem. Don't really like the switch exposed to all the elements, but suppose there's not much that can be done without defeating the purpose.

On the breakaway switch, I had a defective one from Brake Buddy that would trigger false breakaways during hard rains. Burnt up a couple sets of pads and rotors on the toad. Break Buddy mailed me a new switch that solved the problem. Don't really like the switch exposed to all the elements, but suppose there's not much that can be done without defeating the purpose.

I plan on unbolting and removing my breakaway switch from the bracket during normal day to day use and not towing.

Long enough wire to store the switch somewhere in the engine compartment or are you going to unplug and remove altogether?
I store the lights cable in the engine compartment and lay it under the hood when in use. That has worked well.

Long enough wire to store the switch somewhere in the engine compartment or are you going to unplug and remove altogether?
I store the lights cable in the engine compartment and lay it under the hood when in use. That has worked well.

The breakaway switch I have has a pigtail about 6 inches with a connector so I will disconnect it and remove completely. should not but a couple of minutes to put back on or remove.

ldsoles1066 - Going through the pics in detail now. Had to pause and come back to thank you for such a great job. Loving your album. I'm sure there will be plenty of viewers going forward. As I'm sure you know, it's not just saving the bucks but the satisfaction of DIY and knowing it's done right! Please keep us posted on your electrical work too.

The TH tab receivers come straight out from the base plate whereas the non-TH's are offset to the center of the vehicle giving the 4.25" difference.
Each side of the TH's bumper mount lower lip requires trimming - not required on non-TH.
Non-TH requires cover removal and fascia trimming at tab positions - TH does not because the spaces are already open for the hooks.