The surprising heart of the UK's thriving gastropub scene

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Soon after arriving at the Parkers Arms in Lancashire’s beautiful Trough of Bowland, a basket of potato skins, warm from the oven, appeared on the table. Crisp, earthy and salty, they were so moreish they would on their own have been worth the trip to the Ribble Valley.

That’s an exaggeration, but they give a hint of why the pub came eighth in the national Top 50 Gastropubs list recently compiled by industry bible The Morning Advertiser. Another reason is the hospitality. When I arrived, general manager A J Nolan greeted me like a long-lost friend and within minutes it felt we’d known each other for years.

Those potato skins were the beginning of what one regular described as “being Stosied”, a reference to chef Stosie Madi’s need to feed. The embarrassment of riches included a knockout black pudding sausage roll made with rich pork fat pastry, served with a pig’s head croquette and a home-made piccalilli with real depth of flavour.