Rob Pizem's blog. This blog is about my family, my training and my rock climbing adventures. I like to rock climb, boulder and be outdoors. One of my favorite things to do is to establish new climbs in new areas.

February 5, 2014

Training with Piz: How Much Do I Train? AND 1 Arm Negatives

Contact Piz at pizem@hotmail.com for Motivational/Instructional/Entertaining Speaking Engagements, Climbing Instruction, Training and Periodization Programs
Until then... Get outside and have an adventure!

Many people ask me how often do I train. Here are the facts.

I have a full time job as a high school science teacher at an alternative high school.

I am sponsored by 4 great companies which require time and energy throughout the year at events, trade shows and whatever.

My second job is as the head trainer at the Grand Junction Climbing Center.

My third job consists of working with clients around the U.S. on remote climbing training programs.

My wife works and loves to run competitively.

My forth job consists of public speaking engagements around the U.S.

Most of my days start at 4:30 or 5am and end around 8pm before I have any "my" time.

My training.

I circuit train on Tuesday and Thursday mornings at 5am for 45 minutes

I Treadwall once a week for about 1 hour.

I use a fingerboard, a systems board and a campus board once a week on Thursdays all together for about an hour.

Outdoor climbing.

If the weather permits I get one day a weekend.

Occasionally, I get both days a weekend.

Total Time Committed to My Training Per Week

3.5 hours a week

Total Time Committed to Actual Climbing Per Week

1 hour if no outdoor climbing

1 hour plus whatever can be done with 1 day of outdoor climbing.

So, my work out time is very specific and very specialized to meet my climbing and strength needs. I don't waste time just doing stuff for the sake of doing it. I look at where I am weak and what my current/future projects require and train to meet those needs. I write a plan and follow it and record my results. Training does not have to be all consuming but it does have to be focused and to the point.With those few hours a week, I can maintain a high level of fitness and complete my projects in a reasonable amount of time. If I had more time to climb, I would complete them more quickly, but I really want to be the best husband and father that I can be, so it is all good!

Another great way to work your lock off strength.

Be sure to be on a jug and to try to center your self over your arm.

As you get even stronger you can try to not be centered over the middle of your body (off set).

4 comments:

One thing to remember Ben is that I have been climbing for 20 years now. I have a huge base which is a factor for sure. But with a conscious effort to work your weaknesses you really don't have to train that much!

I have similar responsibilities (kids, full time job, etc) and little time. With limited training time, what would you recommend focusing on to improve endurance, with no access to a treadwall? stick to 4x4s?

I have always been taught to increase volume and decrease difficulty in order to increase your endurance. So that would mean to do more routes at the gym/outside when you are there. If that is not possible, then I would suggest you to work on your power. Here is why. I have observed for many years boulderes making the transition to sport climbers. Initially they are not able to complete a longer route do to a lack of endurance, but within a short amount of time climbing on routes they are floating short and long routes without a worry. This is because they are not getting pumped. They have the power to do moves easily. If the moves are easy then you are not getting pumped. That means work on hard prolems once a week and work on volume of easier problems the next day of the week. I hope this helps : )

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About Me

I am a high school science teacher and rock climber. I met and married Jane, the love of my life and now have two beautiful sons.
I love to rock climb and am very fortunate to have the best sponsors in the business: Arcteryx, SCARPA Shoes, Sterling Ropes,WindXtreme and CAMP-USA equipment.
Favorite websites:
www.camp-usa.com, www.arcteryx.com, www.scarpa.com, www.sterlingrope.com,
www.golightgofast.com
www.windx-treme.com