Ensemble of wine red linen, consisting of:
A) Dress of wine red linen. Jumper-style, the seamed bodice has a wide, rounded neckline and is sleeveless. The skirt gathers slightly into the waist, which dips slightly to hips. Two slit pockets at side skirt seams just below waist. Center back opening, with 5 large circular wine red plastic buttons, a hook-and-eye at waist, two hidden snaps at neckline, and two hidden snaps below waist. Fully lined in red silk.
Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York"
B) Under-bodice of wine red silk and wine red linen. Cropped bodice of silk with low, rounded neckline, and center front opening with 5 hook-and-eyes. Short sleeves of wine red linen to match dress.
No labels in under-bodice.
C) Stole of matching fabric. 50" x 12" rectangle, formed as a tube.
No labels in shawl.
Size 10 or 12.
Note: Outer dress can be worn with or without under-bodice, giving the dress the appearance of being either sleeved or sleeveless. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330419/

Egyptian Ensemble.
A) Galabeya. Full-length galabeya of black cotton, with rounded neckline cut at base to for a shallow "V". Caftan style, with long sleeves and slit from hem upwards on right side. Front of galabeya with embroidered and applique decoration. Around neck and front of bodice is floral decoration and scrolls in gold, greens, red, and blue, and central shield-shaped gold satin applique piece with embroidered scroll work in gold and blue. Lower part of galabeya with matching, but inverted similar gold satin appliques with embroidered scrolls, and embroidered floral forms. Long sleeves with thin rectangular embroidered gold bands along wrist. Unlined.
B) Head Scarf. Rectangle of fine red fabric, lower edge scalloped. Upper edge with sewn border incorporating spaced gold cylindrical beads. Ends of scarf and scalloped area of lower edge with thin crocheted/sewn band with spaced gold tear-drop beads and simulated gold coins. Applied to center of scarf are two bands of red crocheted/knitted net with gold spherical beads and pendant simulated gold coins. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277038/

Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt.
The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle.
The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape.
No labels in either garment.
Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30154/

Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades.
A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem.
B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights.
There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283770/

Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30229/

Suit in hot pink nubbly wool knit. The ensemble consists of three pieces: a jacket, matching skirt, and black silk shell.
The jacket is hip-length, with a shawl collar which has an attached black silk tie. The center front closure has 6 circular brass buttons with central embossed lion's heads and black outer edges. There are four faux flap pockets at front, two on each side of opening, each with button matching those of the closure. The long sleeves have simulated closure, with a line of three buttons matching others on each sleeve. The pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, center front, and hem are all edged in black. Designer's label sewn inside jacket at collar: "Adolfo / New York", with retailer's label sewn in just below: "Neiman-Marcus". The matching skirt is below-knee length, of the same pink wool knit, with pleating beginning 7" below waistband and extending to hem. Skirt has designer's label sewn inside at waistband as jacket. The accompanying black silk blouse is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Single black silk -covered button closure at back of neck. Shell has designer's label sewn inside at left of closure as jacket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30285/

Ensemble of teal silk Ottoman. The suit consists of a jacket and skirt, blouse, and scarf. The jacket is of horizontally ribbed teal silk, banded on the bias, has a rounded neckline, is long sleeved, and has princess seaming for a tailored fit. The sleeves have soft pleating at the shoulders, and there are 3 circular gold buttons set with rhinestones at each cuff. There is a center front closure with 4 large buttons matching the style of sleeve buttons and one hidden snap at top. The buttonholes are hidden in the seam of the opening. The jacket is lined in black silk. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back of neck: "Richard Brooks". The matching skirt is of the same silk Ottoman, below-knee length, with soft pleats at front and darts at back from waistband down 5 1/2". Small slit at center back from hem upwards. The sides are cut on straight vertical stripe. The waistband has hook and two eyes, and there is a center back zipper closure. The skirt is lined in teal silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The blouse is of a thin teal green and metallic gold jacquard, woven with an ornate all-over paisley pattern. There is a banded collar and slight pleating/gathering on front at yoke, and at top of the long sleeves. Center back zipper closure extends from collar almost to hem, and has two hook-and-eyes at collar. The blouse has attached shoulder pads. There is no label in the blouse. An accompanying scarf is of iridescent teal silk chiffon, edged with the same jacquard materials the blouse is made from. There is no label on the scarf.
Designed for Texas Governor Ann Richards.
The silk is from Abraham Fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30305/

Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. Both are lined in the same pink silk as the jacket. The short skirt has designer's label sewn in at waistband: "Richard Brooks".
Worn by Governor Ann Richards when she spoke at the Gridiron Club in Washington, 1992. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30304/

Complete "Geisha" traditional Japanese women's ensemble, of the Kyoto style. The complete ensemble includes various under garments and accessories not seen in images, as well as primary components: Kimono - Salmon colored polyester outer garment with woven geometric design ground decorated with cherry blossoms, mums, and other flowers. Applique of flowers across back of neck/right shoulders. Hand sewn, this is a "Spring" kimono.; Obi of white, silver, and orange brocade; Sash of pink and white shibori; Obi Jimi braided orange cord belt to tie around obi; Tabi socks; Geta sandals (not in images); Fan, and traditional wig, embellished with artificial flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277071/

Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of:
1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt.
2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green and blue glass plaques forming a star. Star is encircled by ring of glass (plastic?) simulated rubies and emeralds. Outer openwork border. Extending above central plaque and connected by 4 small metal bar-shaped links is a triangular plaque set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. Extending horizontally from central plaque on either side are three rectangular metal plaques set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. All plaques connected by metal bar-shaped links. Hanging below connected plaques is fringe of short metal chain sections terminating in hollow spheres. The plaques are sewn to a narrow black cloth band designed to fit around the head, with another black cloth band running behind upper triangular plaque to back of head, connecting with band at back. Along the upper edge of the black fabric where the plaques are sewn is beaded border of tiny red and blue beads.
3. Necklace of ornate silver with glass simulated rubies and sapphires, and coins. "Dog-collar" style necklace of elongated vertical links that interlock. At ends are triangular plaques set with small circular simulated rubies and sapphires, with plain loops for securing. Spaced across collar are 7 attached flowerhead-shaped ornaments with large central oval glass gems surrounded by tiny tear-drop shaped mounts set with circular simulated gems. From three of the flowerheads are hung silver mounted coins, from the other four flowerheads are suspended triangular plaques set with circular simulated gemstones, and a final "fringe" of flower-shaped and star-pierced pendant forms and a fringe of silver chain ending in a sphere. The entire dog-collar section also has elongated chain/sphere fringe. The three coins are from Afghanistan, commemorating the 1974 Islamic Summit held at Minar, and are dated 1977.
4. Earrings. Pair of heavy pendant earrings of silver-colored metal and glass. Bail loops suspend a roughly semi-circular silver plate with collet-set glass sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. From lower edge of plate are suspended small clusters of flat silver shapes and small spheres. Earrings do not match exactly.
5. Pendants. Pair of pendant plaques of silver set with simulated gemstones. Each plaque is trapezoidal, almost triangular. Central artificial stone (one emerald, one sapphire) within border of smaller simulated stones (rubies, emeralds, sapphires). In corners of panel are set single artificial stones. Outer band of stones. Chased outer edges. Upper edge with applied loops/roundels with suns/flower-heads. From bottom edge of each plaque is a fringe of chain ending in hollow spheres. One plaque (sapphire center) has a coin suspended from loop at left and right side of plaque. One of the coins is from Iran, minted before 1980. No visible marks or hallmarks. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277162/

Ensemble consisting of a nightgown and robe of cream or pale peach nylon. Full-length robe with short sleeves and limp ruff collar. Opens down center front with hook-and-eye closure at waist and attached belt. Matching full-length nightgown is sleeveless, with wide straps. Nightgown opens at side with hook-and-eye closures and has string belt. Both pieces of the ensemble are fully accordion pleated on all parts.
Robe has tag "Vanity Fair Nylon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30066/

Nubian Ensemble.
A) Jirjara robe (Nubian-style young woman's galabeya) of sheer black machine made lace with floral pattern woven into the lace. Full-length, with rounded neckline. Wide rounded, almost boat-neckline edged with row of large, spaced golden discs. A second row of gold discs runs slightly lower across upper chest. Long sleeves with slight cuffs. Dropped waist with wide horizontal pin-tucks. Skirt gathered into sewn band just below bottom pin-tuck.
B) Under-dress of blue cotton printed with ancient Egyptian-inspired motifs including lotus and flying birds, done in gold, red, and black. Full-length, with "keyhole" neckline, lower part of keyhole with scalloped edge. Slits at side seams from hem up to mid-calf. Very short sleeves. Garment cut to create very slight "A"-line shape, by cutting in under arms. Unlined.
C) Head scarf of very fine black fabric. Triangular in shape, with edging of crochet/knitting of black yarn threaded with small clear crystal/glass cylindrical beads. Outer edge of beaded loop "tassels" of the same beads. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277018/

Nubian Ensemble.
A) Jirjara robe (Nubian-style young woman's galabeyah) of sheer black machine-made lace with scattered "tendrils" of various sized dots all-over which extend from hem upwards. Full-length, with rounded neckline and slight "V" at front. Full-length sleeves flaring to wrist.
B) Under-dress of white cotton embroidered with ancient Egyptian-inspired motifs, including lotus blossoms. Full-length, with rounded neckline with small "V" at front. Neckline edged with green embroidery. Short sleeves edged with similar green embroidery, as are the short slits from the hem upwards. "Bib" at front of upper part of dress with green, yellow, blue, red, and pink embroidery of stylized lotus, scrolls, border lines, etc. Front of skirt with large embroidered motif of lotus(?) growing from bowl, with other blossoms around, in same colors. Back is plain. Unlined.
C) Head scarf of very fine black fabric. Triangular in shape, with edging of simulated gold-colored coins.
With suite of costume jewelery of gold-colored metal hung with faux coins, consisting of:
1) Necklace. Simple gold chain suspending triangular "net" of gold quaterfoil-shaped links hung with tiers of faux coins. Simple hook fastener. "Cascade" style.
2) Headpiece (?). Formed of two linked triangles of net with 6-lobed openwork links, hung with tiers of faux coins. At center point is large heart-shaped pendant hung with fringe of coins on short beaded strands.
3) Earrings. Pair. Simple hook suspends horizontal bar from which hangs a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links.
4) Bracelet. Cuff-style openwork wire bracelet with fringe of tiny spherical bells.
5) Bracelet. Cuff-style bracelet of openwork metal hung with a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277151/

Ensemble consisting of a vest and pants. The vest is of wool,with a scoop-neck and with 5 hook-and-eye closures down center front. It is covered in sewn-on black sequins, and has a 1" border of orange, white and gold beads with gold trim at neckline, front opening, hem, and armholes. On the front and back of the vest are 3" diamond shapes formed of the same beads. The white and orange beads are plastic. The vest is fully lined in black fabric. Labels in vest: "Valentina LTD / RN 34435 / Made in Hong Kong"; "100% Wool / Made in Hong Kong"; and "Medium". The pants are formed as a divided skirt of black wool in a satin weave simulating crepe-back satin. They are floor length, with full-length accordion pleats. There is a wide 3" waistband that is completely beaded to match the vest. The pants have a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband, and are unlined. Inside the pants is a single tag at waistband: "Lot Number 11/12". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30302/

Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt.
First image shows:
a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell".
b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York".
c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York".
The second image shows:
a) Vest, described above.
b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York".
Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/

Evening coat of black, metallic silver, and metallic gold brocade in a geometric "Byzantine" design. Full-length, with no collar and with 3/4 length sleeves. Center-front opening with 6 hammered brass buttons and loop button-holes. The center front opening, shoulders, and cuffs are accented with gold braid which has rhinestones set along the length. The coat is lined in yellow/orange silk crepe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30123/

Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29997/

Evening gown of red silk jersey with strapless bodice; bodice is fan pleated, with pleating converging at center front and back in a triangle; full-length with dipped hem in back; fully lined in red silk satin; left side zip closure; bust support structure within bodice with side hook and eye closure. Size 4
Designer's label: "Carmen Marc Valvo" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286781/

Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt.
A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads.
No label in jacket.
B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband.
Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283753/

Evening dress of gold and multicolored printed hounds tooth patern satin. The full-length gown is designed with a wide "bateau" neckline with almost off-the-shoulder short puffed sleeves, a long waist into which is gathered the full skirt. The gown has an all-over pattern of horizontal bands of hounds tooth in various colors and gold: purple, orange, green and yellow. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283726/

Evening dress of green crepe with strapless bodice with wide M-shape neckline; bodice is gathered in a zig-zag wrapping and tucking down center-front to hips; skirt wraps around to the left; ankle-length; center-back zip closure; lined in green synthetic.
No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286802/

Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure.
Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283672/

Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt.
Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114831/