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It was 31 years ago that Jeff Ruby opened the Precinct in a former police station at the corner of Columbia Parkway and Delta Avenue. It almost immediately became one of the best, most popular restaurants in the city. Remarkably, it still is.

A steakhouse is the most traditional restaurant, with an expected menu of steaks and potatoes, red wine and raw seafood - the things people with money in their pockets have been eating since money and pockets were invented.

But Ruby hasn't relied on tradition or let the Precinct stagnate. He never rests: He seems to open something new or completely redone ...