Amazing Quebec City – it’s a journey back to old Europe

Paul Marshman travellingboomer.com

North America has a lot of big, modern cities. But if you’re looking for quaint, historic places that make you feel as if you’ve stepped into the past, the choices are few. Near the top of that list is one of Canada’s most amazing tourist destinations: Quebec City.

The capital city of Quebec ranks as a prime attraction just for its history: this is where Canada was born, in a battle that set the course for a new nation. But where other cities offer a few historic sites here and there, Quebec City has preserved its history almost intact. The old town is still there, much the way it was back in the 1700s.

Walking through these historic streets can make you feel like a time traveler. And sometimes it makes you feel as if you’re somewhere in Europe, with the horse carriages clopping by and people sipping a glass of wine on an open terrace.

No matter where you go in old Quebec City, you’ll be greeted by historic sights, entertainment and great food. But to see the best of the city, there are a few things you shouldn’t miss, even on a short visit.

The Lower Town

In 1608, Samuel de Champlain landed on the shore of the St. Lawrence River and built a settlement that was later attacked and destroyed by the English. But it was soon rebuilt, and today it’s the Lower Town, the oldest part of Quebec City. The heart of the quarter is Place-Royal, a square fronted by one of the oldest churches in North America, Notre-Dame-des-Victoires.

The streets of the Lower Town are like a living museum, filled with shops and houses from the 1700s. It’s a great place to wander by day, and it’s magical by night, when a warm glow emanates from the chic restaurants in the centuries-old buildings. Don’t miss the huge mural on Côte de la Montagne Street, which weaves historical figures and various writers and artists into scenes from modern life.

The Place d’Armes

The Lower Town is connected the Upper Town with a funicular, which lifts you up the cliff in just a few seconds – well worth the $2.50 ticket to avoid the steep walk. Once at the top, you’re looking out on the Place d’Armes, the centre of the old town. The scene is dominated by the majestic Fairmont le Chateau Frontenac Hotel, rising up like a castle – the most photographed hotel in the world.

The Place d’Armes is also the site of the statue designating Old Quebec as a UNESCO World Heritage site. And it’s a great place to have dinner on one of its lovely patio restaurants. From here you can wander in several directions, through ancient streets dotted with shops, churches, parks and outdoor art galleries. Everywhere you look, there’s another memorable scene.

The Dufferin Terrace

But it’s not right to leave the Place d’Armes before taking a little stroll along the Dufferin Terrace. This wide, sweeping boardwalk is named for a governor-general who chose Quebec as his second vice-regal residence. It runs along the top of the cliff, behind the Chateau Frontenac and affords the best views of the St. Lawrence and the Lower Town below. It’s especially beautiful at night when the lights come on. If you come in winter, you can even ride the toboggan run from the top of the hill behind.

The Citadel

The old town of Quebec is full of history, but the most historic site is the citadel, an imposing fortress just south of the inner city. This star-shaped fort wasn’t built by the French to defend against the English – it was actually built by the English to ward off attacks by the Americans. But it’s a great example of a 19th-century fort that’s still in use: the Citadel is the home of Quebec’s famous “Van Doos” regiment.

Visit the Citadel at 10 a.m. most days and you can see the changing of the guards. It’s quite a show, with red-suited soldiers, a marching band and even the regimental mascot, a goat called Batisse. Afterward, it’s a short walk to the Plains of Abraham, where the decisive battle between the English and the French took place. Today it’s a grassy park filled with picnickers and joggers – how times change.

The Grande Allee

Just beyond the old city walls is Quebec’s parliament building, an impressive sight, with grounds that are dotted with statues of historic figures. And just beside it runs the Grande Allee, a long, leafy boulevard lined with patio restaurants. This is where Quebeckers come to lunch, relax with a drink, or party the summer evenings away.

Once you’ve had your fill at the restaurants, the Grande Allee is a great place for a walk. Stroll a few blocks and you come to the Museum of Fine Arts, set beside a lovely park, and the ultra-modern Pavilion Pierre Lassonde, filled with contemporary art. Don’t miss the little monument in front of the art museum; it marks the spot where the English General James Wolfe died after the battle that shaped Canada’s history.

Those are the highlights every visitor should see when they visit Quebec City. But of course, you could spend a week here, visiting the old port, the farmer’s market, the old train station and the Rue Jacques-Cartier, a trendy street decorated with colourful lampshades created by local artists. Or you could try one of the night tours, where guides in black capes lead you through the dark streets to reveal some of the city’s secrets.

But the best way to really appreciate Quebec City is to sit with a glass of wine in a restaurant in a 300-year-old building and let the spirit of the past speak to you. Add a piece of tourtiere and you’ll feel just like a habitant.

And if you have some time to spare, rent a car and take the wonderfully scenic drive down the St. Lawrence to the beautiful Charlevoix region, where blue lakes shine out from the dense northern forests and huge whales play in the waters of the great river. It’s a trip to remember.

Paul Marshman

Toronto native Paul Marshman is a retired journalist who writes about travel from a baby boomer’s perspective. Check his blog, The Travelling Boomer (travellingboomer.com) for destination info and tips on how to get the most from your travels.

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