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Currently designing my double barrel smoker and was pondering of eliminating the side firebox door because of designing/cutting a lifting door for the lower barrel.

That direction would retain the original shape and bung holes... see what I see? If I position and rotate the sealed barrel so the largest 2" NPT hole is on the bottom (6:00 position), that placement is screaming for a 2" ball valve/pipe arrangement very much like the UDS set-up.

Based on area (3.14 * (r^2)) leaves a few similarities...

On most UDS I've read: (4) 1" holes for incoming air equals 3.14 sq. inches.
Using the 2" bung hole/valve roughly equals the same amount in square inches (3.14)

I'm not qualified to check your math, but I use the 2" bung as my air inlet and it is NEVER used wide open for smoking. Usually more like ⅛ to ¼ open for 225-240 degrees.

I do open it all the way for cleaning (its a self-cleaning smoker, you see...) and that will give me a temp of 350-375 (burning Rancher bricks and living in SoCal). That is plenty hot enough to burn off the moisture and much of the grease after a half hour or so.

Another idea I've been toying with is using an automotive throttle body instead of a ball valve. From the right salvage yard or swap shop, its bound to be cheaper than a new 2" ball valve. Its shorter. And with a little work it can just be bolted onto the drum rather than threaded onto a nipple (making it stick out farther still.) Its spring loaded butterfly and cable actuation are just begging for creative mechanisms and linkages for actuation. Cessna aircraft style throttle control is my current thinking. But I also like the trick little levers the ALMS and World Challenge cars use for their adjustable sway bars...

Its just possible I spend more time thinking about this stuff than I should. I'm not sure though.

Will be adding a hold-down latch then completiing the upper smoke chamber. Maybe using big rig exhaust tips later. All suggestions are appreciated. Its much safer doing mods on the computer before I go for the power tools .

I like the design, keep us informed how it comes out, I was going to go this route, but I spoke with BigMista and went to the place he had his 1st UDS made. The guy just could not understand what I was after. The bottom barrel is to be your firebox / grill unit, and most of your smoking done in the top barrel?

Just wondering about pointing that intake straight up... Seems like it would fill up with water if left in the rain. Pointing the intake down would be an easy fix if you don't have to have the valve at waist level. Just thinking out loud.

__________________
Pitboss @ Woodpile BBQ Shack
Beer Snob
I cook the best brisket north of Dallas. Get over it.
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BBQ Person of the Year 2013

On my things to add yet. Was focusing on the bottom firepit barrel first...
Thinking of using Tractor trailer rig exhaust tips... with the flap baffle fixed in a 45 degree angle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thawley

PA:

Just wondering about pointing that intake straight up... Seems like it would fill up with water if left in the rain. Pointing the intake down would be an easy fix if you don't have to have the valve at waist level. Just thinking out loud.

Thanks for reminding me to add a cone vent topper. The valve was placed to eliminate the possibility (if the valve stuck out the bottom horizontally) to be a tripping hazzard or to be nudged accidentally without anyone's knowledge.

The bottom barrel will hold an extra-wide fireplace grate (found @ $30) that does have removeable sides... about 4" tall. Expanded metal will line the firegrate. (Thanks to Country HB).