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Peacocks are spectacular and delightful pets, most suitable for farms and rural surroundings. They are always a sight to behold when the males begin to strut around with their tail feathers extended! Males are commonly referred to as 'peacocks,' while females are commonly referred to as 'peahens.' Many people simple call both sexes 'peacocks' or 'peafowl.'

Steps

Method1

Housing

1

Keep chicks warm. Keep chicks in a heated area for the first 4 to 6 weeks of their lives.[1] It's generally a good idea to start out with a temperature of about 95˚F and decrease the temperature by about 5˚/week. However, this can vary greatly depending on the time of year and your geographic location.

Keep an eye on your chick's body language to recognize the best temperature. When chicks are cold, they will huddle together. When they're hot, they'll try to get as far away from the heat source as possible. The best temperature will be when the chicks can move freely without exhibiting either of these behaviors.

2

Build a large pen.[2] This is necessary if you want to keep your peacock from flying away. It should be at least 8 feet (2.4 m) tall, or taller, to ensure that your peacocks are able to fly and/or fan their tails freely. Chicken wire is fine for both the walls and the roof. The roof should also arch or come to a point in places where it will be higher than the rest.

Make sure that, if you are getting a male, the pen is wide and long enough for him to display his feathers fully when he struts. Not doing so will result in broken feathers or other injuries.

3

Provide a wooden shelter similar to a small shed or barn.[3] Make it inside or connected to the main coup for your birds to roost and/or nest in. You may want to put a warming light in this area and bed it with straw. Provide lofts for the peacocks to stand on and regular perches. Be sure to check the entire pen for places where raccoons, foxes, or other small pests can get in.

If you have a pest problem, consider placing a radio near the peacock's pen. Keep it on at all times. Predators and pests are less likely to make themselves known if they hear human voices.

4

Do not let your peacocks roam free. Although peacocks raised from chicks will rarely stray far from where hatched, they do have a tendency to turn semi-wild if left to their own devices. Be sure to keep them in an enclosed area if you have strict property lines or are afraid of losing your peafowl.

5

Never overcrowd your peacocks. Not only does this lead to an uncomfortable and unhappy life for your peafowl, but it can cause severe disease outbreaks, making it a poor economic decision for you. You should have about 80 square feet of space per bird.[4]

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Method 1 Quiz

Why shouldn’t you let your peacock roam free?

It might get sick if it can interact with other animals.

Not necessarily! It is more likely that a peacock will get sick if it is in close quarters with other peacocks, so make sure you have a pen that gives each peacock about 80 square feet of space. There is another reason peacocks shouldn’t be able to roam free. Choose another answer!

They might turn wild and run away.

Yep! If you have raised your peacock from a chick, it will probably stay close to home anyway, but peacocks also often turn a bit wild when they don’t have a fenced-in area. You don’t want to lose your beautiful peacock pet, so keep it in a large pen instead of letting it free. Read on for another quiz question.

It might destroy your neighbor’s lawn.

Not exactly! This is not the most likely scenario with a free-range peacock. If you have strict property lines, however, it is even more important to have a good, sturdy pen and fenced-in area for your peacock. Try another answer...

All of the above.

Not quite! Although your peacock should not be allowed to roam free, not all of these are likely consequences of peacock freedom. Make sure you give your peacock plenty of space to roam, strut, and fly in its pen so that it can still live a happy life in captivity! Pick another answer!

Method2

Feeding

1

Provide food and water dishes. Using hanging food dishes (hanging from the ceiling by chains) tends to keep mice from getting into the food. Keep the water elevated or protected in some way as well so that you do not get droppings in it. Alternatively, use a 3 or 4 gallon (11.4 or 15.1 L) bucket for water.

2

Feed the chicks. Peacock chicks should get a high protein diet for their first 3 months of life. Look for a Game Bird feed crumble of about 25 to 30% protein.[5] As they get older, begin to wean them off the crumble; too much protein in a grown peacock can cause serious leg deformities.

3

Begin to wean your chicks from the crumble. After three months, the chicks should be weaned to either Game bird feed or Game bird pellets (Note that pellets are best for birds in cages with wire bottoms). This can generally be done using a 6 week transition schedule, but you should pay close attention to the response of your chicks. If they stop eating the feed, continue feeding them what they will eat and try again another day. The six week program is as follows:[6]

Week 1: 3 parts crumble to 1 part adult food.

Week 2: 2.5 parts crumble to 1 part adult food

Week 3: 2 parts crumble to 1 part adult food

Week 4:1.5 parts crumble to 1 part adult food

Week 5:1 part crumble to 1 part adult food

Week 6: .5 part crumble to 1 part adult food

Week 7: All adult food.

4

Give your peacocks occasional treats. While too many treats can cause health problems, giving your peacocks a little something special now and then can be helpful in keeping them from straying or to help them swallow medicine. To treat your peacock, consider giving him fruits, vegetables, bread, unsweetened cereals, dog food, or cat food.[7] Do not give them small bones, as they may choke.

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Method 2 Quiz

Why is it necessary to wean your peacock off protein-heavy foods as it gets older?

Too much protein can cause leg deformities.

Absolutely! After the first couple months of life, peacocks don’t need as much protein. If they get too much protein, it may cause them to have leg issues for the rest of their lives. Read on for another quiz question.

It won’t eat protein-heavy foods after the first couple months of its life.

Not necessarily! If you have started feeding your peacocks protein-rich crumble, they will probably like it a lot! The difficulty might be transitioning them from the heavy protein food into adult peacock food. Pay attention to what your peacock will and won’t eat, and vary your food transition schedule as needed. Try again...

Protein-heavy foods are difficult for peacocks to digest.

Not exactly! Although too much protein in an adult peacock’s diet may cause negative consequences, their digestion is not a likely issue. Make sure to carefully transition your peacock from protein-rich food to normal peacock food. There’s a better option out there!

As they age, peacocks start eating insects for protein and no longer need it from their primary food.

Nope! Although peacocks may eat insects, in captivity they will not be able to eat enough to provide them with the protein they need. As they grow, their need for high amounts of protein also lessens. Click on another answer to find the right one...

Method3

Health

1

Keep the peacocks healthy. Health checks are very good (with testing as appropriate), when you acquire your new peacock, and each year thereafter, to check for and prevent common illnesses.

2

De-worm your peacocks. Caged peacocks should be wormed at least every other month (more often if needed). Free range peacocks should be wormed at least once every three months. There are a variety of products that can be used for worming. However, most of them are intended for dogs, cats, chickens, turkeys, or cows. Here are some that you can also use for your peacocks:[8]

Piperazine. This is a general wormer that comes in liquid or pill. The liquid can be put in the water and used to de-worm a bunch of younger birds at once. The pill must be force fed to the peacock.

IVOMEC. IVOMEC is another very effective, general use wormer. However, it is not effective against capillaria worms. If you choose to use IVOMEC, it is recommended that you alternate between IVOMEC and Panacur (Panacur is especially effective against capillaria worms). Note that these two should never be given at the same time. Alternate which one you use each time you de-worm.

Ivermectin Cattle wormer. This is commonly used to worm breeding stock. It can be hidden in a treat and given to the peacock or force fed.

3

Keep an eye out for external parasites. In addition to worms and internal parasites, external parasites such as lice can cause problems with your flock.[9]

Lice. These insects live their entire lives on the host, feeding on skin, scales, and feather debris. If lice are found on your birds, all birds in your flock should be treated with a safe pesticide.

Mites. These bugs are more resistant to pesticides than lice. If you find mites, you must treat your birds every 10 days for 4 to 5 weeks. Then, it is recommended to treat your flock monthly until you are sure the mites have disappeared.

Chiggers. Chiggers feed on thighs, breasts, wings, and the vent, resulting in red scabby patches on your birds. To treat, you must treat the entire pen/area inhabited by the bird.

4

Watch for protozoan diseases. Protozoa are single-celled organisms that can cause infection and other illness in a variety of animals. Some important ones to watch out for with your peacocks are:[10]

Coccidiosis. This is generally just found in birds 3 to 12 weeks old. It is not contagious. The most prominent symptom is black, watery stool. To mitigate, treat with a coccidiostat or a sulfa drug added to the feed. It is a good idea to add preventative medication to your peafowls' food while they are of a susceptible age.

Histomoniasis. Chicks between 5 and 14 weeks old are most likely be affected by this. Symptoms include watery yellowish stools, drowsiness, and weakness. It is contagious. To treat, use Metronidazole or copper sulfate to treat.

Leucocytozoonosis. This protozoan attacks the white blood cells of the bird. Symptoms include severe anemia, fever, weakness, loss of appetite, and difficulty walking. It is generally transmitted by black flies and biting midges, which both breed in fast-flowing streams. It is recommended to keep your birds indoors during the active season of these insects. If you do have a problem, treatment will call for a sulfa drug or clopidol.

Pigeon Malaria. Here, it is the red blood cells of the bird that are attacked. Symptoms include weakness, loss of appetite, and eventually death. Like Leucocytozoonosis, Pigeon Malaria is transmitted by biting midges. To prevent this disease, be sure to keep insect levels under control and give your birds a low level of antimalarial medication of Clopidol if you are worried about them getting affected.

Score0 / 0

Method 3 Quiz

What is the best way to make sure your caged peacocks are healthy?

Give them worm medicine and protozoan medicine monthly.

Not quite! Give your peacocks worm medicine frequently, but you do not need to provide protozoan medicine unless you believe your peacocks are infected with a protozoan disease. There are a number of different types of protozoan diseases that you can easily diagnose and treat to keep your peacocks healthy. Try another answer...

Watch out for weird or unusual behavior.

Not necessarily! This is certainly a part of keeping your peacocks happy and healthy, but it is not the only way to make sure they are healthy. If you notice unusual behavior from your peacocks, consider evaluating them for other signs of a protozoan disease. There’s a better option out there!

Give them worm medicine every other month and watch for signs of other diseases.

Exactly! Whether or not you think your peacocks have worms, treat them at least every other month to prevent worms. Other diseases and infestations have a variety of symptoms and warning signs- know the major peacock diseases and watch your brood carefully to keep them healthy! Read on for another quiz question.

Give your peacocks lice and mite pesticides every month.

Nope! Peacocks don’t need consistent lice and mite medicine. If external parasites like lice, mites, or chiggers start causing problems with your peacocks, research pesticide options. Depending on the type of parasite and the severity of the infestation, you may need to treat the entire flock. Pick another answer!

Watch out for lice, mites, and worms.

Not exactly! While keeping an eye out for lice and mites is essential, you will need to frequently treat your peacocks for worms even if you don’t think they are infected. An infestation of lice or mites will require a full-pen pesticide and treatment. Pick another answer!

How does one keep a male peacock in an urban area, where the peacock's loud calls will annoy most neighbors?

Community Answer

I was reading that they make the most noise in breeding season and at dusk. One option was to put the roosts high enough so they cannot stretch out their necks. If they can't extend it fully they cannot call as loudly.

You can pen them, which will be most effective. You can also clip their wings by trimming 1 to 2 inches off the tips of the flight feathers. Don't cut too much, as the stem of the feathers can bleed and cause pain to the bird; it may also lead to infections.

Tips

Do not startle your peacocks. They are very jumpy birds, and may injure themselves by flying into the walls of ceilings of their enclosures repeatedly.

Make your own food. If you cannot find bird game food or prefer not to use it, you make your own food for your peacock. To do this, feed your peacocks a mixture of chicken pellets and mixed grains (barley, wheat, rice). Corn feed is also acceptable. You might want to add some dog food (for larger dogs) into the mix.

Be sure the cage is large enough for a male to strut (display his tail feathers) and fly around. Provide high perches in each part of the coop.

Watch for predators such as foxes and raccoons. These can possibly kill your peacocks and eat their eggs.

If you have a nesting female, provide a large, clean tire with the middle filled with straw. This should be placed within the wooden shelter. She will lay her eggs there. If you don't provide this, she will just lay them on the floor where they can be stepped on or eaten by wandering predators.

Please note that peacocks may mate with as many as 6 peahens in a mating season.

When entering the coop, watch and be sure your peacocks do not get out. Carry a broomstick if you must. Get a lock that unlocks without using a key, and locks behind you as you close the door. If your peacocks get lose, they will likely fly into a tree or away completely. They may also begin running with flocks of wild turkeys, as they are close cousins of the peacock.

Peacocks strut if it's raining so make rainwater available by using roofs like Sieves.

Warnings

Do not keep two male peacocks in the same coop. They can and will fight with one another, and death is the common outcome of these fights.

Avoid feeding chocolate, coffee or alcohol to your peacocks as these can be toxic.

Although peacocks can be kept with common chickens, blackhead, caused by a germ that is transmitted with roundworms, is common in peacocks kept with them. It is preferable to house the two species separately.

Since they rarely have their wings clipped, you may want to keep your peacock in a large coop.

Peacocks' loud calls are a problem if kept in urban areas.

Peahens are prone to fox attacks, especially if looking after chicks. The males are better able to defend themselves and will readily fly into trees, hence there is often an excess of male peacocks compared with peahens.

Article Info

wikiHow is a “wiki,” similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. To create this article, 31 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. Together, they cited 10 references.

Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 409,518 times.

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Co-authors: 31

Updated: July 9, 2019

Views: 409,518

A

Anonymous

Aug 24, 2016

"A peacock just appeared in my yard today, left with a flock of wild turkeys but back again this morning. I'm hoping he will stay around. I'll get food today and put out water to see. The total article was helpful; never thought I'd have this opportunity. Thank you."..." more

PD

Pauline Daggett

Jun 18, 2016

"This was an extremely helpful, informative article since I am about to acquire a peacock harem! Excellent tips and warnings, plus the info about feeding at various life stages and illnesses to watch out for were well done. Concise, easy to read, cute pics."..." more

MM

Miria Martin

Nov 18, 2016

"Easy step-by-step instructions with pictures for people like myself who have not had anything to do with peacocks but might introduce them to our property. Straight to the point with everything relevant to make it as easy as possible."..." more

SC

Steve C.

Aug 16, 2016

"Actually everything was useful as a peacock showed up about 5 wks ago and it seems to like it here. I've had no luck finding the owners and wanted to know what, if anything was needed for their care. Thank You."..." more

KS

Kerstin Sutherland

Dec 12, 2017

"Thank you - very informative. We have one that strolls into our yard daily and rests on top of our small hill under the trees. We wanted to know what it eats and whether the fish in our pond were at risk."..." more

Rated this article:

A

Anonymous

Mar 10, 2017

"I just got a rescue peacock. Knowing nothing about them and raising chickens, I found a lot of information in this article useful. Now I will need to build a separate living area for my peacock!"..." more

TC

Tee Cox

Aug 10, 2016

"Did not know that chickens and peacocks shouldn't be housed together. I had all mine in one large chicken house, I will be changing these arrangements before they are out of the chick stages."..." more

A

Anonymous

Jul 28, 2016

"Provided a wealth of information for the care and husbandry of peacocks. I would have liked to have the dosages for the medications listed for dewormers and such."..." more

A

Anonymous

Sep 8, 2016

"My birds just came into my yard & have stayed. I didn't know what to feed them or how to take care of them at all. I have a lot more understanding for them now."..." more

GH

Gary Huston

Nov 12, 2016

"I built a 40'x15'x15' high coop with a 12'x12'x10' coop to sleep. I'm studying peahens for one year before I get any birds. This page has helped me a lot."..." more

A

Anonymous

Jun 6, 2017

"A very informative article, precise and to the point. Excellent reference guide. Thank you (I have turkeys, had no idea they were cousins)."..." more

AC

Ana Cooper

Oct 7, 2017

"I'm new to keeping peacocks. My husband just gave me a present of two male birds, and now I know I will have to part with one of them."..." more

Rated this article:

BI

Bob Irwin

Aug 20, 2017

"It was all very informative. My wife and I are trying to save what's left of our free-roaming flock. "

A

Anonymous

Oct 8, 2017

"I have a baby peacock, and this article told me exactly how to care for it."