Haven - Joint Winner in the Experienced category

Cristiane Tano, Brazil

The Design

At times clothing functions as an exoskeleton, shaping and protecting our bodies from the environment we live in. And when this environment is toxic, we sometimes retreat and close ourselves up, much like the lepidoptera (butterfly and moth) encases itself as it adapts and changes into a different self.

Having those two things in mind, I have tried to incorporate elements that allude to the lepidoptera’s wings and pupa merged to a human skeleton form. The color black was chosen for its association with introspection.

The Construction

The corset body base layer is made of corsetry mesh, with satin coutil for bone casings, center front and back, and lightweight power net for the panty sides. I originally intended to use strong power net but didn’t realize there wasn’t enough of it until it was too late, so I resorted to the lightweight net I had at hand, and think the end result was satisfactory. It’s very stretchy and can accommodate different shapes and a wider hip sizing; the elasticated edges and adjustable crotch also help with that. It is lightly boned with six 5mm spiral steels, four 6mm flat steels next to the grommets and one 10mm flat steel at center front.

The overlay is a hand cut and molded vegetable tanned leather. Some panels were made with lighter weight leather, and others that needed more structure with a heavier weight one. Decorative stitches with silver thread were hand sewn through pre punched holes. All leather panels were stitched and secured to the base layer by hand.

I developed the pattern for this corset body back in 2012, but I never got to make it as other projects took over. I created the overlay design recently for this contest and I decided to use wet molding (picture 5) for that, instead of my usual tooling technique.

I tried my best to use only materials I had in stock, which meant there was little room for mistakes and I had to accept that some parts weren’t as nice as they could be (some parts of the hide tend to distort more and don’t look as smooth as others).

I tried many things I haven’t tried before and was very experimental with techniques. This was definitely a great learning experience!

What was it like to compete this year? What would you say to someone who is on the fence about entering next year?

It has been a challenging learning experience and a great opportunity to think outside the box and grow as a maker. It might be intimidating, but this works as an incentive to push harder and therefore learn more, acquire new skills and hone pre-existing ones. Go go go!

I saw your work on Vero and I didn't known that it was a foundations revealed entry...I don't have words, it's a masterpiece!

Alynn Aubury 1 year

Otherworldly and utterly amazing. I want to see what this looks like on a body, but your work is just outstanding.

Alynn Aubury 1 year

Otherworldly and breathtaking. Outstanding work.

Claire Green 1 year

Admired your work for several years now, I first came across you on DeviantArt about 8 years ago and loved your leatherwork back then too! Your attention to detail is so wonderful and the finish is perfect!

mdmcavoy 1 year

Incredible and striking. Congratulations on achieving this awe-inspiring entry.

Sandy Baker 1 year

Face-meltingly awesome.

aprix13 1 year

The placement of those silver threads between your leather exoskeleton pieces is so precise! What a nice effect

What a masterpiece indeed, Cristiane!I have been a huge admirer of your leatherwork for the longest time now and I was super excited when I saw that you worked on something for the competition. It's just mindblowing how you can manipulate leather into this elegant and unique shapes and your attention to detail is as always amazing. One of my absolute favourite entries for sure!

I have no word to describe how much I am amazed by this piece! I had been following your work for a while, but you really outdid yourself, this is perfect in every way! I am speechless, bravo!

velvetmad 1 year

There’s not much I can add to what everybody else has said so far. This is a striking piece. Not just corsetry, but leather work, too?! Awesome! I think my favorite part (other than EVERYTHING!) is the beautiful silver thread strung through the leather. It almost looks like a complex musical instrument, and so many night insects add to the night time symphony. Brava!

Lethicia 1 year

Amazing!

cathyhay 1 year

This is truly extraordinary Cristiane, you're really a master of manipulating leather, and when combined with corsetry, the result is, as Sandy says, face-meltingly awesome! It's a joy to watch you grow as a maker!