A trip to Paris isn’t really complete without a visit to Berthillon — arguably the best glace (ice cream) and sorbet store in the world. The French have been eating frozen desserts since the eigtheenth century, and they never miss an opportunity to slurp some up. On a warm day, there’s a long line outside the store for both seats and takeout.

Actually, the French word for ice cream is crème glacée, but I’ve only found this term in dictionaries, not cookbooks and magazines. The French term glace is more properly translated as “ice” and many classical recipes are more like modern sorbets than ice cream. Many of the sorbets found on menus in modern France would not actually fit Escoffier’s definition of that frozen dessert. In his time, sorbets were only made of fruit juices or wines. Often these frozen preparations were also mixed with beaten egg whites to make them smoother and lighter. Today’s sorbets made with fruit purées or herbal infusions would be termed glaces by Escoffier.

To better fit modern descriptions and to simplify translation, the recipes in this article are considered glaces (ice creams) if the base includes milk and/or cream, plus eggs. All the remaining preparations are sorbets. Whether a glace or sorbet, all the recipes start with a liquid base. This base is first partially frozen in an ice cream machine and then frozen firm in an ordinary freezer. For all the glaces, a cooked custard is prepared from milk and/or cream, egg yolks, sugar, and flavorings. The custard is chilled before placing it in the ice cream machine.

Depending on the ingredients, some preparations freeze faster or more completely than other preparations. The addition of alcohol to the recipe lowers the freezing point, so this type takes longer to freeze. Sorbet au champagne and sorbet au cidre brut both consist primarily of alcoholic liquids and barely solidify in the freezer. Although there are only a few tablespoons of alcohol in glace malaga, this preparation is soft enough to eat directly from the freezer because of the alcohol it contains.

The recipes included in the article can be modified extensively to fit individual tastes. Glaces can be made more rich by adding additional egg yolks or substituting cream for milk. If the ice crystals form too fast or too large during the freezing process, some powdered invert sugar can be substituted for the ordinary sugar. The amount substituted has to be reduced by half because the invert sugar is sweeter than granulated sugar. If powdered invert sugar is not available, honey can also be used.

Besides the fact that different bases freeze differently, different ice cream machines produce different results. All the recipes in this article have been tested in a one-pint capacity machine with a passive freezing canister chilled to about -22 °C (-8 °F). Generally, the initial freezing is accomplished in about 10 minutes with this machine. Larger machines and quantities will take more time. This is also the temperature required to firmly freeze the partially frozen mixtures tested. If your freezer is not capable of these temperatures, the alcohol based mixtures may not freeze sufficiently for serving.

The recipes in this article can literally be prepared in a few minutes. Glaces and sorbets prepared in the afternoon can easily be ready in time for the evening’s dessert.

The diced strawberries in this recipe must be cut very small since the pieces will still be partially frozen when the ice cream is served. Alternatively, the strawberry pieces can be left out completely.

glace à la fraise

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

whole milk

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

heavy cream

1⁄2 t

vanilla extract

50 g (1⁄4 c)

granulated sugar

2 extra‑large

egg yolks

2 large (about 25 g[1 oz])

diced, fresh strawberries

40 g (11⁄2 oz)

fresh strawberry puree

1. Put milk and cream into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the liquids, stirring often, until they start to boil. Add vanilla extract and mix.

2. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color.

3. Slowly whisk the milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.

4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled. Add the diced and pureed strawberries. Mix well.

Because different cinnamons have different strengths, the actual amount used in this recipe may have to be adjusted. Test the infusion periodically so that it doesn’t become too strong.

glace à la cannelle

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

whole milk

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

heavy cream

8 g (1⁄4 oz)

cinnamon sticks, broken in a few pieces

1⁄8 t

ground cinnamon

50 g (1⁄4 c)

granulated sugar

2 extra‑large

egg yolks

1. Put milk and cream into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the liquids, stirring often, until they start to boil. Remove from heat and add the two cinnamons. Cover and set aside to infuse for an hour.

2. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color.

3. Slowly whisk the milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.

4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled.

The best way to prepare the coffee used in this recipe is to catch the first 2 tablespoons of coffee produced by loading an espresso machine for a double shot of espresso.

glace au café

100 g (1⁄2 c)

granulated sugar

2 extra‑large

egg yolks

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

whole milk

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

heavy cream

1

vanilla bean

2 T

fresh, strong espresso coffee

1. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color. Set aside.

2. Put milk and cream into a small saucepan. Split vanilla bean lengthwise and scrap seeds into milk. Add vanilla pod to liquids. Carefully heat the milk mixture, stirring often, until it starts to boil. Set aside to steep for 5 minutes.

3. Remove vanilla bean from milk and discard. Slowly whisk the hot milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Add the coffee and mix. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.

4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled.

If commercial pistachio paste is unavailable, pound 25 grams of shelled pistachios and 25 grams of sugar in a mortar until smooth. Dilute with a little grapeseed oil and color with a little green food coloring.

glace à la pistache

65 g (5+ T)

granulated sugar

2 extra‑large

egg yolks

250 ml (1 c)

whole milk

45 g (3 T)

pistachio paste

25 ml (scant 2 T)

heavy cream

1. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color. Set aside.

2. Put milk into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the milk, stirring often, until it starts to boil.

3. Slowly whisk the hot milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Add the pistachio paste and mix. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.

4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled. Add cream and mix well.

5. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.

6. Move the ice cream to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.

Note: If commercial pistachio paste is unavailable, pound 25 g (1 oz) of shelled pistachios and 25 g (1 oz) of granulated sugar in a mortar until smooth. Dilute with a little grapeseed oil and color with a little green food coloring.

The mint leaves for this recipe must be well washed and dried before use. This can be easily done by washing the bunch intact and then hanging it overnight in a refrigerator.

glace à la menthe

250 ml (1 c)

whole milk

1⁄2 bunch

fresh mint, leaves only, chopped

35 g (scant 3 T)

granulated sugar

2 extra‑large

egg yolks

1. Put milk into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the milk, stirring often, until it starts to boil. Remove from heat and add the chopped mint. Cover and set aside to infuse for an hour.

2. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color.

3. Slowly whisk the milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.

4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled.

This ice cream is somewhat chewy due to the pieces of dried coconut. A smoother version can be made by substituting coconut milk for most of the milk and all of the shredded coconut.

glace à la noix de coco

250 ml (1 c)

whole milk

45 g (11⁄2 oz)

sweetened, shredded coconut

50 g (1⁄4 c)

granulated sugar

2 extra‑large

egg yolks

1⁄2 T

rum

1. Place milk and coconut in a small bowl and macerate overnight in a refrigerator.

2. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color.

3. Put milk and coconut into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the mixture, stirring often, until it starts to boil. Slowly whisk the milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.

4. Pour the mixture into a bowl set in an ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled. Add rum and mix well.

It is important not to skip or shorten the maceration of the raisins in the rum. Besides softening the raisins, the rum prevents the raisins from freezing solid into miniature ice cubes.

glace malaga

40 g (1⁄4 c)

raisins

2 T

dark rum

50 g (1⁄4 c)

granulated sugar

2 extra‑large

egg yolks

200 ml (131⁄2 T)

whole milk

50 ml (31⁄3 T)

heavy cream

1. Combine the raisins and rum in a small bowl and macerate overnight.

2. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color. Set aside.

3. Put milk and cream into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the liquids, stirring often, until they start to boil.

4. Slowly whisk the milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.

5. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled. Add the macerated raisins and rum. Mix well.

It is important that a golden-brown caramel be prepared for this recipe. If too light, the ice cream will lack a caramel flavor; if too dark, the ice cream will have a bitter taste.

glace au caramel

150 g (3⁄4 c)

granulated sugar

2 extra‑large

egg yolks

250 ml (1 c)

whole milk

1⁄4 t

fresh lemon juice

1. Combine 75 g (6 T) sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color. Set aside.

2. Put milk in a small saucepan. Carefully heat the milk, stirring often, until it starts to boil. Set aside until needed.

3. Place the remaining 75 g (6 T) sugar in a heavy‑bottomed saucepan over medium‑high heat. Melt the sugar until a golden‑brown caramel is formed. Remove the saucepan from the heat and carefully stir in the lemon juice. Very slowly and carefully add the hot milk to the caramel, stirring constantly. If the caramel solidifies, return the pan to the heat to dissolve it.

4. Slowly whisk the hot milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.

5. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled.

Olive oil-flavored ice cream seems to be the current rage in southern France these days. The finished ice cream has a very smooth, custard-like taste. Be sure to use a very high quality, pleasant tasting oil for this recipe.

glace à l’huile d’olive

25 g (2 T)

granulated sugar

2 extra‑large

egg yolks

170 ml (2⁄3 c)

whole milk

80 ml (1⁄3 c)

heavy cream

50 g (3 T)

fruity olive oil

1. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color. Set aside.

2. Put milk and cream into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the milk mixture, stirring often, until it starts to boil.

3. Slowly whisk the hot milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon. Add the oil and mix.

4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled.

If starting with canned, peeled peaches, drain the peaches, reserving the packing syrup. Purée the peaches and strain through a fine strainer. If starting with fresh peaches, peel and stone the peaches — about 2 large peaches should be sufficient for one recipe. Poach the peaches in a syrup made of equal parts water and sugar until soft. Drain, reserving the poaching liquid. Purée the peaches and strain through a fine strainer.

sorbet aux pêches

250 g (1⁄2 lb)

peach puree

25 g (31⁄3 T)

powdered sugar, sifted

1 T

lemon juice

50 g (scant 1⁄4 c)

simple syrup

1. If starting with canned, peeled peaches, drain the peaches, reserving the packing syrup. Puree the peaches and strain through a fine strainer. If starting with fresh peaches, peel and stone the peaches. About 2 large peaches should be sufficient for one recipe. Poach the peaches in a syrup made of each parts water and sugar until soft. Drain, reserving the poaching liquid. Puree the peaches and strain through a fine strainer.

Choose a fromage blanc for this recipe that is somewhat loose and has not been drained to the point of being dry. As an option, some very finely minced lime zest can be added to the sorbet for texture.

sorbet au fromage blanc

125 g (1⁄2 c)

water

125 g (10 T)

granulated sugar

250 g (1⁄2 lb)

fromage blanc

juice from 1

lime

1⁄4 t

vanilla extract

1. Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan over high heat. When the sugar is fully dissolved, cool the syrup in a water bath.

If starting with canned, peeled pears, drain the pears, reserving the packing syrup. Purée the pears and strain through a fine strainer. If starting with fresh pears, peel and core the pears — about 2 large pears should be sufficient for one recipe. Poach the pears in a syrup made of equal parts water and sugar until soft. Drain, reserving the poaching liquid. Purée the pears and strain through a fine strainer.

sorbet aux poires

250 g (1⁄2 lb)

pear puree

1 T

lemon juice

50 g (scant 1⁄4 c)

simple syrup

1 T

poire Williams

1⁄4 t

vanilla extract

1. If starting with canned, peeled pears, drain the pears, reserving the packing syrup. Puree the pears and strain through a fine strainer. If starting with fresh pears, peel and core the pears. About 2 large pears should be sufficient for one recipe. Poach the pears in a syrup made of each parts water and sugar until soft. Drain, reserving the poaching liquid. Puree the pears and strain through a fine strainer.

The almonds for this recipe must be very finely and uniformly ground. Almonds chopped in a food processor will not produce the fine texture required for this sorbet. Therefore, a nut grinder is recommended for preparing whole nuts for this recipe.

sorbet au lait d’amandes

40 ml (3 T)

water

160 ml (10 T)

whole milk

40 g (31⁄3 T)

granulated sugar

40 g (scant 11⁄2 oz)

ground, blanched almonds

1. Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer, cover, and cook slowly for 20 minutes. Chill.