Preparation

In a heavy pot over medium heat, cook fatback until nearly crisp. Add onions, stir, and reduce heat to low. "Chip" a potato by holding it in one hand and turning it slowly while using a sharp paring knife to cut quarter-moon-shaped quarter-inch-thick slices directly into pot, creating an even layer. Chips will have a thick end, which will remain intact, and a thin end, which will dissolve and thicken broth. Repeat with remaining potatoes.

Add fish in an even layer, then crumbled crackers in an even layer. Do not stir. Add cold water until it nearly covers layers. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover, and simmer until potato is tender, about 15 minutes. Remove lid, add evaporated milk, bring to a simmer, and stir. Serve with additional crackers, if desired.

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