Labor-Management CommitteesCorrespondence from ILGWU president Mazur to other officials; minutes of
meetings leading up to the establishment of the Council for American
Fashion as the umbrella organization of labor-management committees in
the northeastern United States; speech by Mazur to NY Governor Cuomo's
Labor-Management Conference, May 15, 1990, "Labor-Management Planning
for a Revitalized Manufacturing Sector: The ILGWU Approach in the
Apparel Industry"; Gov. Cuomo's State of the State message, January 4,
1989, hand-annotated by ILGWU exec. asst. James Parrott, with cover memo
to president Mazur re highlights, creation of statewide labor-management
committee; NYS Dept. of Labor newsletter, NY Works, with article about
the newly established Office of Labor-Management Affairs, September
1988; hand-drawn schematic of organization of labor-management
committees; handwritten notes of meetings

11

A. Council for American Fashion (CAF)A labor-management committee promoting economic development in the
northeast; located at ILGWU headquarters, co-chaired by ILGWU president
Jay Mazur and Eli Elias, president of the New York Skirt and Sportswear
Association; Carl Proper was executive director. Called first the
Women's and Children's Apparel Labor-Management Committee; then Fashion
Industries Economic Development Council; name changed to Council for
American Fashion as of October 26, 1989.

Federal Mediation and Conciliation Service (FMCS): Grant
LobbyingCorrespondence (letters of support from Massachusetts governor Robert
Casey, Massachusetts Sen. Edward Kennedy, Pennsylvania Sen. Arlen
Specter, etc.) with members of Congress, Labor Secretary Elizabeth Dole,
and FMCS to retain/restore funding for the CAF labor-management
cooperation program

11

Federal Mediation and Conciliation Service (FMCS): Grant
RenewalGrant renewal application: "Women's and Children's Apparel Labor
Management Committee: Application for Continued Funding Submitted to the
Federal Mediation and Conciliation Service," March 2, 1991; "Notes for
Continuation Funding Application to FMCS"; letters of support;
notification of award, March 20, 1991; action plan for 1991-92; memo to
ILGWU president Mazur from CAF exec. dir. Carl Proper, noting
cancellation of funding for FMCS for 1992 due to an unnamed union
representative's having antagonized the chair of the Congressional
funding committee (notes current CAF grant will not be affected), Dec.
9, 1991; newspaper clipping

11

Federal Mediation and Conciliation Service (FMCS):
ConferenceLetters to Council for American Fashion executive director Carl Proper re
presentation on CAF at the FMCS Sixth National Labor-Management
Conference, January-June 1992; outline of talk; letter from Bruce
Herman, director of the Garment Industry Development Corporation (GIDC),
offering to make presentation at FMCS conference, with description of
GIDC, September 30, 1991; conference program, 1990

11

Federal Mediation and Conciliation Service (FMCS): Midterm and
Final EvaluationsLetter from FMCS grants manager acknowledging receipt of quarterly
reports for period ending June 30, 1990, noting lack of progress,
suggesting that proposal be revised, August 15, 1990; memo re visit from
federal grants manager to examine records, September 18, 1990; outline
of proposal revisions, directional shifts for CAF with greater emphasis
on demonstration projects rather than studies; letter to FMCS discussing
changes in direction, Nov. 1990; memo re reorganizing CAF into project
groups, April 11, 1991; list of steering committee and other committee
meeting dates, FMCS report due dates, events, other grant due dates;
1991-92 itemized budget with note, "supporting material for Sept. 1992
FMCS budget revision"; midterm and final evaluations of CAF as required
by the FMCS grant: "Preliminary Assessment of the Council for American
Fashion: A Labor/Management Partnership for the Apparel Industry," March
1991, and "The Council of American Fashions after Three Years - An
Evaluation," May 1993, both by Norman Eiger, Professor of Labor Studies,
Rutgers, State University of New Jersey; correspondence with FMSC
director re request for grant extension, 1991-92; itemized budgets

11

Federal Mediation and Conciliation Service (FMCS): Final Report
& AuditCorrespondence, steering committee minutes, background material for audit
and final evaluation, printed brochure by CAF, "High Fashion, High Tech,
High Skill: Notes on the Future of the American Apparel Industry"

11

AuditAudit by Wolf & Schulman, CPA, for year ended December 31, 1992, and
for the period Oct. 1, 1989 to Sept. 30, 1992; grant application,
itemized budget information, memo

Report to ILGWU General Executive BoardOutline of structure and goals of CAF; Jay Mazur intro to report;
overhead transparencies; handwritten notes; report to the GEB meeting of
January 1991 by Carl Proper re accomplishments and near-term plans of
Council for American Fashion and related labor-management committees;
handwritten notes

12

Report to ILGWU Organizing StaffThe U.S. Women's Apparel Industry: Basic Characteristics and Organizing
Potential; regional organizing plans; slide presentation on
labor-management programs; presentation to ILGWU business agents and
other staff by Carl Proper re Council for American Fashion, efforts of
labor-management committees, relevance to union objectives in
maintaining health of industry

Financial Records: Fashion Exports and New YorkInvoices and memos in connection with Fashion Exports/New York
expenses

12

Annual ReportReport, distribution list

13

Council for American FashionCalled first the Women's and Children's Apparel Labor-Management
Committee; then Fashion Industries Economic Development Council; name
changed to Council for American Fashion as of October 26, 1989. Minutes,
June 27, 1989; list of subcommittees and members as of Sept. 22; letter
noting approval of FMCS grant

13

Council for American FashionReport to the ILGWU General Executive Board, May 8, 1990; agenda, CAF
Steering Committee, March 27, 1990; memo from ILGWU exec. ass. James
Parrott to CAF director James Proper re follow-up on CAF meetings, May
17, 1990; FAM Board of Directors meeting outline of talking points, May
22, 1990; talk to Rutgers Conference on Women's Work (by Carl Proper?),
May 22, 1990; memo to ILGWU president Mazur from exec. asst. James
Parrott re frustrating meeting with ACTWU labor-management committee,
with handwritten notes, May 23, 1990; memos to Mazur from Parrott re
Leslie Fay and (TC)2, April 12, 1990; letter from Greater Blouse, Skirt
& Undergarment Association to Mazur congratulating him on "swell"
CAF January meeting, need for accurate public relations for Chinatown,
February 7, 1990; press release, "Council for American Fashion to
Modernize Apparel Manufacturing," March 22, 1990

13

Council for American Fashion: First & Second Quarters
(Jan.-June) (2 Folders)Annual Report; personal note from ILGWU president Mazur to Marvin
[Feldman, president of FIT], urging that Prof. Irwin Kahn be allowed the
time to continue contributing to CAF and GIDC rather than being forced
back to the classroom, February 27, 1991; nomination by ILGWU president
Mazur of Eli Elias, exec. dir. of the New York Skirt and Sportswear
Association and co-chair with Mazur of CAF, to Crain's New York Business
as Crain's All-Star for 1990, related material; memo to ILGWU exec.
asst. James Parrott from CAF dir. Carl Proper re finding funds in
current budget for export expert, February 13, 1991; ten-page notes for
continuation budget, CAF goals, for submission to Federal Mediation and
Conciliation Service (FMCS), with note from Proper to Parrott, related
memos; memo from Proper to Parrot re work situation on Long Island:
homework, Chinese and Hispanic workforce, practice of Chinese-owned
manufacturers moving from Chinatown to Long Island to avoid
unionization, discusses specific shops, strategy, May 23, 1991; memos re
export program, Hong Kong trade show; profile of Atlantic Apparel
Contractors Association in Lehigh Valley Business Digest, February 1991;
draft of minutes of New Jersey Apparel Labor-Management Committee,
January 31, 1991, with cover note from Carl Proper to James Parrott;
report of survey of Long Island, April - May 1991, by Prof. Phil Kelman,
Manufacturing Management Department, Fashion Institute of Technology; "A
Preliminary Assessment of the Council for American Fashion: A
Labor-Management Partnership for the Apparel Industry," by Norman Eiger,
professor of labor studies, Rutgers University, March 1, 1991; summary
of apparel industry labor-management activities, April 25, 1991; list of
CAF/GIDC exporters and potential exporters, newspaper clippings,
handwritten notes

13

Council for American Fashion: Third & Fourth Quarter
(July-December)Correspondence between ILGWU president Mazur and Garment Industry
Development Association (GIDC) re funding requests; description of GIDC
sent to FMCS; memo re ergonomics conference; application by GIDC to the
NYS Dept. of Economic Development, October 1, 1991; notes re
conversation with representative of Japanese retailer Takishimaya;
newspaper clippings

Public Relations Committee: BrochureDrafts of manuscript, memos re text for promotional brochure, part of a
PR campaign aimed at national and state elected officials and opinion
leaders

13

Steering CommitteeMinutes, 11/8/89-9/25/91; "Role of Steering Committee and relation to
various local committees such as GIDC, NTAP, Lehigh Valley"; CAF mailing
list, 4/23/90; contract and reports to NYS Department of Labor with
overview of CAF, 1991

Meeting:9/17-18/1990Invitations from ILGWU president Mazur to Federal Mediation and
Conciliation Service grants manager, Pennsylvania and NYC government
officials, and, from CAF director Carl Proper, to the president of Party
Formals to attend meeting; minutes, agenda, handwritten notes;
presentation by ILGWU president Mazur; notes for discussion of marketing
plan and related correspondence; list of attendees; newspaper
clippings

13

Meeting: 11/8/1990Invitations from ILGWU president Mazur to NYS economic development
commissioner Vince Tese, from CAF director Carl Proper to the president
of FIT and president of Oscar de la Renta to attend; reports of
Technology Committee, Marketing Committee, notes on discussion;
presentation by ILGWU president Mazur; agenda, handwritten notes

Skills Training: Application and ContractApplication for Training Assistance to set up a modular manufacturing
unit, contracts between CAF, the NYS Dept. of Economic Development
Office of Skills Training, manufacturer Marcus and Weisen, and
consultant Prof. Peter Lazes, Cornell University, New York State School
of Industrial and Labor Relations, Jan. 31 and Oct. 16, 1992; budget
revisions; correspondence

Eastern Pennsylvania/South Jersey CAF: EstablishmentDescription, draft bylaws, and amendments to articles of association;
draft budget; application for employer identification number; memos,
minutes of meetings re formation of council; Pennsylvania Department of
Commerce list of financing programs and agencies to assist business and
industry; resource directory for small business

14

Eastern Pennsylvania/South Jersey CAFMeeting agendas and minutes; list of potential projects; memos of
conversations; correspondence soliciting contributions; handwritten
notes; census map of county business patterns for Pennsylvania, with
statistical sheet, 1986-87; list of apparel firms and number of
employees, July 1991; newspaper clippings, Eastern Pennsylvania Business
Journal, June 1990, and other regional newspapers

15

Philadelphia/South Jersey Labor-Management Committee: Federal
Mediation and Conciliation Service (FMCS) Grant Application and
LobbyingProposal for Pennsylvania Women's Apparel Labor-Management Committee,
submitted by the ILGWU, July 1990; Philadelphia/South Jersey Apparel
Labor-Management Committee proposal submitted to the Federal Mediation
and Conciliation Service, May 11, 1991; letters of support from members
of Congress and others to approve funding for the creation of a new
labor-management cooperation program for the Philadelphia-South Jersey
area, funded through the FMCS

Lehigh Valley Project: CAF TakeoverMemoranda discussing problem areas, whether to continue Lehigh Valley
project in its current form with Participative Systems, or start a new
organization led by ILGWU/Council for American Fashion (CAF); proposal
to Pennsylvania Department of Commerce Office of Technology Development
re economic development projects (technology access, ergonomics, worker
involvement, marketing for union contractors), written by CAF executive
director Carl Proper over the signatures of the executive director of
the Atlantic Apparel Contractors' Association (AACA) and ILGWU, with
faxed messages to both for approval, January 15, 1992; summary of phone
conversation with AACA director re growing use of non-union contractors,
labor-management issues not amenable to resolution under current
approach; list, issues to work on with Atlantic Apparel; Apparel &
Textile Innovation Initiative proposed budget; Lehigh Valley Project
proposed budget; list of potential and definite Lehigh Valley projects;
list of possible activities of Lehigh Valley CAF and existing
committees; agenda for first meeting of CAF/Eastern Pennsylvania
Labor-Management Committee, Aug. 8, 1991; Apparel Steering Committee
minutes, July, August 1991; correspondence re invoices; newspaper
clippings; handwritten notes

15

Massachusetts: Needle Trades Action ProjectRevised draft report and executive summary of the Blueprint 2000
Employment Committee, "The Challenge of Prosperity," prepared by Barry
Bluestone, professor of political economy, U. Mass., July 25, 1988, with
cover letter from Lt. Governor's office to advisory committee members;
research proposal by Ellen I. Rosen, Radcliffe College, submitted to
Needle Trades Action Project, "Labor Shortages in the Needle Trades,"
1988, with cover letter to ILGWU exec. asst James Parrott from Carl
Proper; report of visit to the Gemini Manufacturing plant by Prof. Rosen
re work process issues, with photos (originals in Kheel holdings),
February 8, 1989; report, "Joint Marketing Opportunities for Fall River
Contractors," submitted by the Industrial Cooperative Association to the
Needle Trades Action Project Marketing Committee, August 27, 1987;
printed report, "Jobs, Justice, and Miracles: Toward a Commonwealth in
Massachusetts in 1990," by the Massachusetts Campaign for Jobs and
Justice, supported by Massachusetts AFL-CIO, June 1989; paper by Michael
H. Best, economics professor at University of Massachusetts at Amherst;
paper presented at Centro Studi Economici, Milan, Feb. 6-7, 1987,
"Industrial Policy and Employment Creation by City and State
Governments: The Greater London Enterprise Board and Quasi-Publics in
the State of Massachusetts"; unpublished paper, " Strategic Planning and
Industrial Policy by Local Enterprise Boards"; publications by
Department of Employment and Training: "Employment Review, January 1992,
and "Employment 2000: Massachusetts Employment Projections by
Occupation," July 1989; Manual for Implementing a Shared-Time
Engineering Program (STEP), September 1980 through September 1983, New
England Apparel Manufacturers' Association, Fall River, Massachusetts,
November 1983, U.S. Department of Commerce

MinutesAgendas, minutes, lists of members; transcript of talk to first meeting;
notes re phone conversations with Bruce Herman, Garment Industry
Development Corporation (GIDC), March 7,1991; with Richard Hatch, New
Jersey Institute of Technology, April 2; State of the State address by
Gov. Jim Florio, January 8, 1991; handwritten notes

15

MinutesJune-October Agendas, minutes, lists of members; proposal for a Regional
Industry Service Center; letters from members of Congress and others
supporting grant proposal; correspondence from Council for American
Fashion (CAF); result of survey of firms, 1991; exporting workshop
flyer; newspaper clipping re legislation targeting sweatshops

15

MinutesAgendas, minutes; notice of new OSHA formaldehyde regulations, September
1992; list of programs initiated by the committee, programs the
committee should like to initiate, problematic programs; proposal to
committee for Modular Manufacturing Pilot Project at D. Glasgow &
Son, Inc., August 1992; marketing workshop proposal; letter from New
Jersey Institute of Technology re New Jersey Apparel Manufacturing
Conference, May 11, 1992; letter to Council for American Fashion from
New Jersey Division of International Trade re delegation of Italian
government officials interested in exports from U.S.

16

Workplace LiteracyProposal for a Workplace Literacy Program, submitted by the Institute for
Management and Labor Relations, Rutgers University, in partnership with
the ILGWU and the New Jersey Apparel Labor Management Committee, July
10, 1992

F. Garment Industry Development Corporation (GIDC)Nonprofit public-private labor-management coalition of small and midsize
apparel firms producing in the New York City area, worked closely with
Council for American Fashion, Fashion Exports New York; activities
focused on vocational training, English as a Second Language (ESL)
instruction, and facilitating exporting

16

RecordsSummary of Activities, First Year of Operation, June 1984-85; memo by
ILGWU exec. asst. James Parrott, Plan of Action for Restructuring GIDC,
August 27, 1987; memo from Parrott to Mazur re NYC/NYS garment industry
development issues, August 19, 1987; memo to ILG president Mazur,
summary of labor-management committee activities, July 28, 1987; letters
from Mazur to commissioner of NYC Office of Business Development and to
NYS director of economic development Vince Tese in support of GIDC grant
application for skills training for dislocated garment workers in
Chinatown, October 6, 1987; press release from Office of the Mayor
announcing creation of industrial garment condominium in Chinatown;
newspaper clippings, handwritten notes

16

Records"An Introduction to the Garment Industry Development Corporation," by Jay
Mazur and Eli Elias; Annual Reports, 1987- 1988, 1988-1989; Proposal for
Expanded City Assistance to New York City's Garment Industry, March
1988, ILGWU; agenda, Board of Directors meeting, June 28, 1989; fact
sheet and press release re training center; marketing and technology
project summary and request for proposals; letter to NYC Office of
Business Development re joint newsletter between GIDC and CAF; newspaper
clippings, handwritten notes; photos from fashion show (modeled by
sewers? originals in Kheel photo archives)

ChinatownGIDC brochure, "Help for the Chinatown Garment Industry"; draft report,
"Rents, Lease Terms and Utility Charges in the Chinatown Garment
Industry: 1981, 1984 and 1986," prepared by GIDC, April 1986; analysis
of local 23-25 members by borough and zip-code place of residence;
analysis of Chinatown industrial lofts converted from factories into
office space, October 1986

16

Chinatown: PressSummaries and full text of major news stories carried in Chinatown
newspapers

16

Chinatown: PressSummaries and full text of major news stories carried in Chinatown
newspapers

16

Chinatown: PressSummaries and full text of major news stories carried in Chinatown
newspapers

Jobs Created: List of FirmsList of contractor jobs created by jobbers or manufacturers; firms
involved in labor-management activities

17

Marketing and Technology StudyProposal summaries, letters in support to New York State Dept. of
Economic Development/Urban Development Corporation (UDC) Commissioner
Vince Tese from ILGWU Mazur; letter in response from Tese; letter to
Association for a Better New York; letter to Port Authority of New York
and New Jersey; newspaper clipping, handwritten notes

Board of DirectorsBoard of Directors meeting minutes, March 28 and June 13; memo to ILGWU
president Mazur from GIDC president Adam Friedman, "Program Status
Report," summarizing activities of first three quarters of fiscal year,
April 2, 1990; Application to the New York State Department of Economic
Development Regional Economic Development Partnership Program, submitted
by the Garment Industry Development Corporation, July 6, 1990, with
cover note to ILGWU exec. asst. James Parrott; supporting materials re
nomination of GIDC for U.S. Dept. of Labor "LIFT" outstanding training
award, including history and achievements of GIDC and overview of
garment industry in NY; newspaper clippings; letters and telegrams from
ILGWU president Mazur to NYS Senate and Assembly leaders re restoring
funding to Employer Specific Skills Training Grant (ESSTG) program,
related correspondence; Marketing and Technology Study Interim Report re
needs of NYC manufacturers, by Kurt Salmon Associates; Discussion
Outline for GIDC covering the Strategic Planning Study by Kurt Salmon
Associates; application to NYS Regional Economic Development Partnership
Program for Employer Needs Project; memos to Mazur re GIDC budget
cuts

Board of DirectorsOct.-Dec. Board of Directors meeting agenda, 11/19; minutes, 7/25;
Sept.-Oct. activity report; GIDC FY92 budget; A Child Care Study of the
Garment Industry executive summary and newspaper clippings; project
proposal and list of advisory committee members for Women's Apparel
Quick Response Supplier Network to develop faster production turnaround
capabilities for high-value product; Fashion Exports New York brochure;
printed article re lack of government support for NY garment industry by
ILGWU president Jay Mazur in Crain's New York Business

17

Board of DirectorsJan.-Mar. Activity reports re training program, child care; Small
Business Advisory Board member list and mission statement; conference
program, "Moving Toward a Safer and More Productive Workplace," proposal
to the Alfred P. Sloan Foundation by the Urban Research Center of the
Wagner Graduate School of Public Service (NYU) for feasibility study on
reviving specialized manufacturing in the outer boroughs, request from
program officer to GIDC for evaluation; letters from NYS Dept. of
Economic Development re grant approvals for GIDC and Metropolitan
Fashion Center of Greater NY (MFC); proposal for Expo Tech 92,
educational event re computer automation for small business, by
Manhattan Development Corp.; audit of GIDC 1990-91 financial statement;
draft of Kurt Salmon Associates' marketing and technology assessment of
NY women and children's apparel industry; initial planning meeting
agenda for project of Clark Foundation, "How Can We Get NY Working
Again? Employment Strategies for New York City" with note from GIDC
president Bruce Herman to ILGWU exec. Asst. James Parrott; handwritten
notes of meetings; newspaper clippings

Metropolitan Fashion CenterProposed production facility at the Brooklyn Army Terminal serving
Chinatown manufacturers, financed by a grant from the State of New York,
with training of factory workers provided by GIDC. Letter from NYS
Department of Economic Development Commissioner Vince Tese to
Metropolitan Fashion Center, notifying of award of grant, Mar. 27, 1992;
description of center; report, "A Day Care Center in the Brooklyn Army
Terminal: A Needs Assessment: Current and Potential Demand," prepared by
the ILGWU with the cooperation of the Public Development Corporation,
Dec. 6, 1990; letter from NYC mayor David Dinkins to ILG president Mazur
thanking him for doing the needs assessment for a pilot day care center;
memo from ILG vice president Susan Cowell to Mazur re ILG support for
day care center as an economic development issue, Feb. 6, 1991; draft
marketing proposal by ILG exec. asst. James Parrott, with cover letter,
Jan. 4, 1991; update, Feb. 15, 1991; hand-edited draft of letter/request
for proposals for consultant to develop marketing plan; Request for
Proposals for Women's and Children's Apparel Marketing and Technology
Study; ILG memos expressing frustration with MFC for not putting up its
share of funds for the marketing project, concern that further delay
will damage credibility of ILG and GIDC, Aug. 1991; correspondence
between MFC principals Sherman Ng and Edison Wong and ILG exec. asst.
James Parrott, NYS director of Industrial Effectiveness Programs, and
others, re MFC's cash flow projections, shifting commitment to the
project, 1990-91; press releases from MFC and equipment maker Juki
Corporation, 1990; newspaper clippings, handwritten notes

FE/NY Financial Reports (4 folders)Quarterly reports to the New York State Department of Economic
Development

18

FE/NY InvoicesCopies of invoices and checks written by the ILGWU or GIDC for Japan
export trade show and other joint export projects with the Council for
American Fashion (CAF), the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), and
Fashion Exports/New York

18

American Apparel Manufacturers' Association (Export
Promotion)Handwritten list of members; list of ILG firms belonging to AAMA,
12/19/91; memo from Council for American Fashion expressing eagerness of
CAF, GIDC, and FIT to participate in an event similar to the Au
Printemps promotion (copy of article attached)

Export Assistance: Federal GovernmentAnnouncement by the U.S. Dept. of Commerce of the establishment of the
Consortia of American Businesses in the Newly Independent States
(CABNIS) grant program for companies interested in exporting to the
former Soviet Union and aiding in its privatization, July 13, 1992;
Small Business Administration fact sheets, export workshop calendar,
publications; newspaper clippings

18

New Jersey Institute of TechnologyAnnouncement by the U.S. Dept. of Commerce of the establishment of the
Consortia of American Businesses in the Newly Independent States
(CABNIS) grant program for companies interested in exporting to the
former Soviet Union and aiding in its privatization, July 13, 1992;
letter from the Council for American Fashion to the New Jersey Institute
of Technology endorsing its application for CABNIS grant, August 21,
1992; handwritten notes

18

NYCLetter from ILG president Mazur to NYC mayor Dinkins requesting meeting
to plan promotion of exports to Japan, December 12, 1990; letter from
GIDC/ILGWU to NYC deputy assistant commissioner requesting additional
grant money for Fashion Exports/New York for FY 1992-93; confidential
letter from ILG president Mazur to NYC deputy mayor requesting
additional grant money, noting state aid will run out; descriptive
summary of Pilot International Matchmaking Program, a project of the NYC
Office of International Trade & Investment (Department of Ports
& Trade) with the European Cooperation Network; correspondence
between Office of International Trade & Investment and Council for
American Fashion re working together, May 7, 1990; draft text of
brochure to promote NYC manufacturing facilities to foreign designers;
description of Motexha international trade fair held in Dubai, United
Arab Emerites, 1990; newspaper clippings

18

NYC: Brooklyn Goes GlobalA project of Brooklynworks, a coalition of industry, academic, and labor
institutions. Program description; description of proposed global
fashion show; letter from Garment Industry Development Corp. (GIDC) to
ILG officials expressing reservations about show as promoting
fragmentation of industry, but interest in telemarketing aspect, March
30, 1993

18

NYC: Holtzman ReportStudy by New York City comptroller Elizabeth Holtzman re possible public
initiatives to promote exporting, with summary press release

18

New York StateLetter from NYS Dept. of Economic Development commissioner Vince Tese to
Garment Industry Development Corp. (GIDC) that grant has been approved
under the Global Market Export Service (GEMS), Feb. 2, 1993; letter from
Council for American Fashion (CAF) to NYS Dept. of Economic Development
suggesting revising GEMS grant eligibility to reflect how NYC garment
industry is organized (jobber/contractor distinction), August 4, 1993;
announcement from NYS Dept. of Economic Development re availability of
export assistance grants to small businesses and nonprofits, August 15,
1991, with application form; letter from the executive director of the
Port Authority of NY & NJ to ILG president Mazur discussing closer
collaboration with the Garment Industry Development Corp. (GIDC), Sept.
19, 1990; memo from FE/NY coordinator to GIDC proposing areas of
collaboration with Port Authority, July 12, 1993; brochures for NYS
Global Export Market Service (GEMS); for World Trade Center Network;
bulletin from NYS Dept. of Economic Development, "Export Opportunities
for New York State Businesses"; flyer from NYS Dept. of Economic
Development, "Export to Europe Now"; description of Eximbank Working
Capital Loan Guarantee Program, Port Authority of NY & NJ; brochure,
"Bringing New Products to the World's Great Marketplaces," by XPORT, the
Port Authority's export trading company

Europe"Trade Opportunities: Europe," summary sheet by Fashion Exports/New York;
list of international trade shows; memo re Premier trade show in
England; list of European buyer groups for apparel and letter sent to
them from FE/NY offering free services, April 20, 1992; breakfast
meetings sponsored by FE/NY about exporting opportunities to Europe
(Igedo trade show); list of apparel and textile export trade shows
around the world through October 1992, by U.S. Dept. of Commerce; the
Euro-American Club's Bulletin, Sept./Oct. 1991; announcement by the U.S.
Dept. of Commerce of the establishment of the Consortia of American
Businesses in the Newly Independent States (CABNIS) grant program for
companies interested in exporting to the former Soviet Union and aiding
in its privatization, July 13, 1992; letter to ILGWU from Scott Tag
& Label, re need for conversion to metric system; newspaper
clippings on trade fairs, including pullout of ACTWU and Clothing
Manufacturer's Association from SEHM show in Paris; handwritten
notes

18

Europe: Igedo Trade ShowAnnouncements/information packets for annual Igedo Dusseldorf (Germany);
memos from Council for American Fashion; list, "FE/NY Firms Potentially
Interested in IGEDO"; list of U.S. exhibitors, 1991, with question as to
whether any are ILGWU firms; newspaper clippings

18

Europe: Igedo Trade Show Preparations and Follow-upMemos from CAF re funding and letters of support for FE/NY coordinator
Leah Kaplan to attend; letters from Kaplan to firms preparing to attend;
post-conference briefing memos to firms re contacts made, interest
expressed by German buyers

Japan: Japan Apparel Initiative (JAI) Showroom VisitsLetters from Council for American Fashion to apparel design firms asking
to visit showroom with representative of the Japanese External Trade
Organization

Japan: Kobe Fashion MartPrinted materials by the Japanese Market Center and correspondence with
the Council for American Fashion (CAF), Fashion Exports/New York, and
the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey re exhibiting at the
Japanese trade show; lists of invited companies

19

Japan: Market Studies"Overview of the Japanese Distribution System," by Asia Link Consulting
Group; several printed editions of "Your Market in Japan" series re
formal wear, sportswear, and swimwear, 1990; business facts &
figures for 1992; excerpt from report, "The Apparel Market in Japan,"
1988

Middle East and Motexha Trade Fair"The Apparel Market in Saudi Arabia," analysis for the Dept. of Commerce;
memorandum from the U.S. Dept. of Commerce for prospective participants
in the Motexha International Trade Show in Dubai, United Arab Emerites;
announcement for 21st Motexha Childexpo International Trade Fair
(Fashion 1993), 22-25 October 1992, Dubai World Trade Centre, for men's
and women's wear, children's wear, fabrics, home textiles, fashion
accessories, printed brochure for the U.S. Pavilion at the trade show;
letter to ILGWU from president of Denmarie, Inc., of Burlington, VT,
offering assistance with exports to Turkey, with enclosed information re
free trade zones

19

K. New York City and New York State Subseries

19

1. New York Citysee also "Garment Industry Development Corporation" and "Fashion Exports
New York"

19

Apparel IndustryOverview of New York City garment industry, July 21, 1986; New York
Garment Industry Task Force (ILGWU) memo re issues for discussion, with
attached discussion papers, December 20, 1983; "Restructuring for
Competitiveness within the Knitwear Production Industry in New York
City," working paper by the New York Knitwear Industry Center (Queens
County Overall Economic Development Corporation and Ridgewood Local
Development Corporation), October 1988; census statistics

19

Business Relocation Assistance Corporation (2
folders)Retention and Relocation Program Rules, with cover letter to ILGWU for
comment, 1992; report to the Business Assistance Relocation Assistance
Corporation, "Renewing the Retention and Relocation Program," prepared
by the Economic Policy and Marketing Group, Office o f the Deputy Mayor,
February 1992; letters from ILG president Mazur to Mayor Dinkins and
others, urging change of rules that disqualified businesses in
traditional industrial neighborhoods, 1991; statements of Mazur,
Manhattan borough president Ruth Messinger, and ILGWU associate director
of research Walter Mankoff before the NYC Planning Commission, and press
release, 1991; fact sheets re links between Manhattan and Queens in the
ladies' apparel industry, consequences of displacement of garment
district, 1984; list of approved manufacturers, 1986, 1988; notes of
meetings and phone conversations; memos to Mazur; newspaper clippings;
handwritten notes

19

Business Labor CoalitionKnown officially as the Coalition of Business, Labor and Community
Organizations of New York; devoted to lobbying for national policies to
benefit cities. Mission statement; draft report of task force for
rebuilding the port and rail transportation for New York City; press
release, "Dinkins to Present City's Agenda for Clinton Administration to
New York's Congressional Delegation," November 13, 1992; remarks of
chairman Maurice S. Paprin, November 17, 1992

19

Economic Development Manhattan: Planning Committee
ReportsReports of committee and correspondence between Manhattan Borough
President David Dinkins and ILGWU president Mazur; Overall Economic
Development Planning Committee meeting minutes, June 17, 1986; list of
committee members; Progress Report, New York County Overall Economic
Development Program, submitted by Manhattan Borough Development
Corporation, June 1986; Draft and Draft II, New York County Overall
Economic Development Program Report, June 1987; 1988 report, with
comments by ILG exec. asst. James Parrott

EmploymentReport, "New York City in the New Economic Environment: New Risks and a
Changing Outlook," by Samuel M. Ehrenhalt, regional commissioner, U.S.
Bureau of Labor Statistics in New York, March 1988; press release
summarizing report; Women's Wear Daily newspaper clipping re report;
census statistics re employment by borough, 1949-83

19

GovernmentCity Council resolution condemning NAFTA, faxed to ILG's Carl Proper for
comments, February 2, 1993; minutes of meetings between ILG officials,
including president Mazur, and deputy mayor of NY, members of City
Council, and other city officials; letter from Mazur to NYC mayor David
Dinkins requesting meeting to plan promotion of exports to Japan,
December 12, 1990; description of the New York City Alliance for
International Business, Community Development Agency job readiness grant
eligibility guidelines, Nov. 23, 1992; press release by NYC Ad Hoc
Housing Capital Budget Coalition, "Ad Hoc Coalition Protests Elimination
of Affordable Housing Production from the City's Capital Budget," April
9, 1992; newspaper clippings re job trends, misdirected public
incentives, 1993 mayoral race (Giuliani); list of campaign contributions
by ILGWU to all candidates for public office in NYC in 1989

19

Industrial Literacy Project (ESL instruction)A program of the New York City Industrial Technology Assistance
Corporation in cooperation with ILGWU and Garment Industry Development
Corporation (GIDC). Grant proposal and correspondence with ILGWU
president Mazur, 1991; grant proposal for New Jersey project and
correspondence with K-Mart re on-site English as a Second Language (ESL)
training, 1992; Federal Register notice/request for proposals re
Department of Education National Workplace Literacy Program, 1992; draft
of study by St. John's School of Law professor David Gregory re
workplace literacy, cover letter to Mazur, September 27, 1988. see also
GIDC Advisory Committee on Training

19

New York Urban CoalitionCritical analysis of Urban Coalition draft, "A Vision of a Just New York:
The Decade Ahead," March 18, 1988; analysis by exec. asst. James
Parrott, June 14, 1998; Mazur's comments to Urban Coalition on draft
report, August 5, 1988; agenda and minutes of the Board of Directors,
March 16, 1988; fund development statement and cover letter to Mazur,
noting expectation that board members make a personal financial gift to
the coalition, September 6, 1988; correspondence re luncheon honoring
U.S. Senator Daniel Patrick Moynihan and Rep. Charles Rangel

20

Real Estate: Reports and ArticlesDrafts of "Real Estate Pressures and the New York City Garment Industry:
The Pressing Need for a Public Policy Response," with handwritten
comments (by ILGWU vice president Susan Cowell?); April 4, 1986; "The
Outlook for New York City in Real Estate and Construction," by Seymour
B. Durst; "New York City Garment Center Study: Program and Zoning
Recommendations," and "New York City Economic Development Programs and
Strategies: Manufacturing, Office, and Small Business Sectors," June
1986, Policy Analysis Division, NYC Office for Economic Development;
Dept. of City Planning; newspaper clippings, including special issue of
Crain's New York Business

20

Real Estate: Reports Garment Center Study"NYC Garment Center Study: Program and Recommendations," NYC Office for
Economic Development, Department of City Planning, Public Development
Corporation October 1986

Real Estate: Times Square Redevelopment ProjectTestimony on the Draft Environmental Impact Statement for the 42nd Street
Development Project, by Jay Mazur, general secretary-treasurer, ILGWU,
expressing concern with impact of Times Square redevelopment on adjacent
garment district, leading to commercial conversions of production
facilities and higher rents, March 26, 1984; testimony by Mazur at UDC
hearing on redevelopment project, asking for balanced economic planning,
mitigation measures, September 6, 1984; comments of the ILGWU to the
UDC, May 1984; press release, "Union Calls for Measures to Counteract
Effect of 42nd Street Redevelopment on Garment Center," Sept. 6, 1984;
Statement by Mayor Edward I. Koch, Comptroller Harrison J. Golden, and
City Council President Carol Bellamy, pledging to work with ILGWU to
preserve and create apparel jobs in the garment district and elsewhere
in the city, Nov. 8, 1984; statement by Dr. Roger Waldinger, City
College of New York, "The Impact of the 42nd Street Redevelopment Plan
on the Garment Industry," presented to the Board of Estimate hearings,
October 25, 1984, arguing that merchandise mart plans for apparel should
be abandoned; draft of report by Tom Davidoff (?) with cover note asking
for comment by ILG staff; newspaper clippings; oversized poster

20

Real Estate: TrendsNewspaper clippings re real estate changes and events; Crain's New York
Business paper, "Changing face of New York"

20

SweatshopsLetter from Chinese Staff & Workers' Association asking for support
in campaign against sweatshops in NYC, March 31, 1991, with attached
fact sheet re Wai Chang Fashions, "Brooklyn garment shop owes workers
over $100,000 in unpaid wages" and sample letter to NYS Dept. of Labor;
correspondence between Assemblyman Frank Barbaro, chairman of the Labor
Committee, and ILG president Mazur; transcript of testimony by Mazur
before the committee re effectiveness of Apparel Industry Task Force,
created by Barbaro, March 20, 1992; testimony by NYS Labor Commissioner
John Hudacs; transcript of interview with Chinese worker; copies of four
bills in Senate and Assembly to increase civil and criminal penalties
for violating labor laws and holding manufacturers equally liable for
violations by their contractors; certified letter from U.S. Dept. of
Labor's Wage and Hour Division re enforcement of Fair Labor Standards
Act, and attached letter sent to every manufacturer, contractor, and
subcontractor in the U.S., citing high levels of noncompliance,
stressing prohibition against homework in apparel industry, March 6,
1992; press release from U.S. Dept. of Labor re temporary restraining
order against NYC garment manufacturer, April 30, 1992; newspaper
clippings. see also "Sweatshops" (general subject files)

20

Workforce Development CommissionLetter from NYC mayor Dinkins to ILG president Mazur inviting him to
become a member of the Workforce Development Commission, with attached
concept paper, June 28, 1993; text of address to commission (by Mazur?),
"ILGWU Experience with Education, Training, Job Creation, Job Retention,
Job Enhancement"; report by the commission, "New York City Labor Force
Demand and Supply," heavily hand-annotated with critical comments (by
Mazur?); draft recommendations ("confidential"), December 21; drafts of
Research Project Approach, Discussion with Commissioners, hand
annotated, September 14 ("confidential"); committee minutes, agendas,
remarks by Mazur, notes

Workforce Development Commission: ILGWU Internal
DiscussionDraft of letter to deputy mayor to be sent over Mazur's signature, with
memo to several advisors seeking input, August 18; notes re
recommendations for ILG participation in commission, internal ILG and
Council for American Fashion (CAF) memos re issues

20

2. New York State

20

Apparel Industry: New York StateNarrative, "The Apparel Industry in New York State: A Statistical
Profile," prepared by the NYS Dept. of Commerce, Bureau of Business
Research, March 1986; NYS Department of Labor report, "Occupational
Needs in the 1980s: New York State 1987-1989" (projections); U.S. Dept.
of Labor employment, hours, and earnings survey data, 1939-82 and
supplement for 1980-84; overview of apparel industry, New York State,
1985; NYS apparel and knitting mill statistics by county, prepared by
ILGWU Research Dept., based on data from U.S. Bureau of Labor
Statistics, 1973-86; U.S. Dept. of Commerce/Bureau of the Census "County
Business Patterns: New York" by industry, 1981-84; newspaper
clipping

20

Economic Development/Enterprise ZonesDepartment of Economic Development program. Program description;
"Rebuilding Our Cities: The Case for Enterprise Zones," report by the
Legislative Commission on Public-Private Cooperation, Senator Roy M.
Goodman, Chairman, September 18, 1985; statements on enterprise zones,
submitted by ILGWU president Jay Mazur before the Senate Finance
Committee, June 17, 1992; before the House Ways and Means Committee,
July 18, 1991; by ILG president Sol Chaikin before the Senate Finance
Committee, April 21, 1992 and May 3, 1983; talking points for meeting
with Housing Secretary Henry Cisneros, August 6, 1993; memos to
Cisneros, April 1 and 6, 1993

Economic Development/Enterprise Zones: Comptroller's
AuditsOffice of State Comptroller Report of Examination: Economic Development
Zone Program, September 1, 1990; report by Office of the State Deputy
Comptroller for the City of New York, October 23, 1990

21

Economic Development/Enterprise Zones: Review Commission
HearingTranscript of hearing re Progress and Effectiveness of the NYS Economic
Development Zones Program, held by Special Economic Development Zone
Review Commission, April 3

21

Economic Development/Enterprise Zones: Review Commission
ReportsUpdated proposed findings and recommendations, sent to commission members
for comment, May 7, 1991; comments by ILGWU president Mazur, May 30,
1991; interim report, "Summary Findings and Recommendations of the
Economic Development Zones Review Commission," June 19, 1991; final
draft, for commission review, October 4, 1991; memo re future of EDDZ
program; Mazur's recommendation, April 23, 1991; New York State Economic
Development Zones Program Review Commission Final Report, November
1991

Garment Industry Advisory Committee: AwardsPrinted program for the NYS Labor Commissioner's Awards ceremony,
"Outstanding Practices in the Apparel Manufacturing Industry," April 8,
1992, sponsored by the Council for American Fashion; text of remarks by
keynote speaker Karen Schaffner, publisher, Apparel Industry Magazine,
re efforts by manufacturers to improve workplace environment, attract
and retain workers; text of welcoming remarks by ILGWU president (and
co-chair of Council for American Fashion) Jay Mazur; list of attendees
and award recipients; copy of declaration of Apparel Week, signed by
Gov. Mario Cuomo, April 6, 1992; press release announcing the awards,
from NYS Dept. of Labor; press release announcing the awards, from
Council for American Fashion; letters of notification to award
recipients; memos between ILG officials; editorials in Apparel Industry
Magazine

Garment Industry Advisory Committee: Registration LawPress releases, memoranda, and text of legislation of the Apparel
Registration Law of 1988, requiring all garment industry contractors and
manufacturers in the state to register with the NYS Commissioner of
Labor and also establishing an enforcement task force within the Dept.
of Labor; designed to eradicate sweatshops in New York State. Notice of
law, in English, Spanish, Chinese, and Korean; correspondence with ILG
president Mazur negotiating terms of legislation (disclosure, exemption
of men's wear); registration form and certificate; handwritten notes;
newspaper clippings

21

Garment Industry Advisory Committee: Enforcement Legislation
ProposalsProposed legislation designed to more effectively enforce labor laws in
the garment industry, eradicate sweatshops and industrial homework;
confiscation was major point of contention with Republican-controlled
Senate. Drafts of Enhanced Apparel Registration Enforcement bill, 1988;
mailgrams to members of state legislature, 1988; legislative program of
NYS Dept. of Labor, 1989 and 1987, with cover letter to ILGWU president
Mazur seeking support; correspondence between ILGWU president Mazur,
union staff, and state officials; press releases from NYS Dept. of Labor
announcing closer coordination with U.S. Dept. of Labor, report of
advisory council1990; memo to Mazur analyzing governor's upcoming State
of the State message, Jan. 6, 1988; newspaper clippings

Garment Industry Advisory Committee: Registration
ListList of garment industry firms registered under the Apparel Registration
Law in 1992; Freedom of Information request from ILGWU to NYS Dept of
Labor for names of firms cited for labor law or other violation during
the first quarter of 1990

21

Industrial Cooperation CouncilA program of the Governor's office. List of NYS programs of use to
apparel businesses and workers, January 27, 1989; Request for Proposals
by ICC; grant proposal prepared by Emanuel Weintraub Associates (see
also Management Consultants) for an Apparel Industry Strategic
Development Project, working with ILGWU, ACTWU, and NYC-area apparel
firms, September 1989; suggested amendments to proposal; "Scope of
Apparel Industry Project," November 1, 1989; confidential memo from
Weintraub to ILG re findings on NYC garment industry: most firms driven
by marketing, not manufacturing, use Chinatown contractors, not
interested in production improvements, May 1990; letters to ILG local
62-32 manager from the Associated Corset and Brassiere Manufacturers,
Inc., the Intimate Apparel Manufacturers' Association., Inc., and the
Pleaters, Stitchers & Embroiderers Association, Inc., recommending
members to participate in a New York State grant program, January 1990;
related correspondence and meeting notes; proposed "compact," agreement
between the state and the business and labor communities re economic
adjustments for plant shutdowns, with critical comments by ILGWU exec.
asst. James Parrott, 1986; handwritten notes

Industrial Cooperation Council: Cuomo Commission on Trade &
CompetitivenessDrafts of apparel industry study and final report, "A New American
Formula for a Strong Economy," by the Cuomo Commission on Trade and
Competitiveness, a broad-based entity under the governor's Industrial
Cooperation Council; identified national trade imbalance, declining
exports as major cause of job loss in NYS. Critical comments on the
report's apparel section by ILGWU exec. asst. James Parrott; comments by
commission member Jack Sheinkman, president of ACTWU; press releases
from the governor's office; newspaper clippings, some annotated; John
Herling's Labor Letter, June 25, 1988

Unemployment InsuranceStatement on Unemployment Insurance and Statement on Legislative
Priorities for 1985, before the NYS Assembly Committee on Labor, by
ILGWU exec. VP Wilbur Daniels, December 10, 1984; letter to ILG general
secy. treas. Jay Mazur from Assemblyman Frank Barbaro re proposed
increase in unemployment insurance benefits, February 3, 1988; AFL-CIO
letter discussing recent national developments, March 8, 1991, with
attached statistical report, "Worker's Compensation and Unemployment
Insurance under State Laws, January 1, 1991"; NYS Department of Labor
reports, "A History of Unemployment Insurance Legislation in the United
States and New York State, 1935-1983" and "Shared Work: Maintaining the
Foundation of Economic Security: Interim Evaluation Submitted to the
Legislature," U.S. Dept. of Labor occasional paper, "Beginning the
Unemployment Insurance Program - An Oral History," 1985; April 1987;
Industrial Relations Research Association Series Proceedings of the
Thirty- Seventh Annual Meeting, December 28-30, 1984; memo re rise in
weekly claims, December 13, 1984

22

Urban Development CorporationAnnual Report on Jobs Create and Retained, April 1994; press releases re
awards to individual companies; memos to ILGWU president Mazur from
exec. asst. James Parrott with analysis for meetings; meeting agendas;
newspaper clippings

22

Urban Development Corporation (UDC) Board of Directors
Meetings11/19/1992. Complete agenda and background information; items under
consideration included grant for Bronx Land Use and Urban Design Study,
permanent homeless family housing for Brooklyn (Kings County), Town of
Huntington Olympic Corporate Headquarters Project

Urban Development Corporation (UDC) Board of Directors
Meetings9/21/1994. Complete agenda and background information; items under
consideration included regulations for Minority and Women-Owned Business
Development and Lending Program, 42nd St. Development Project, Regional
Economic Development Partnership Program (REDPP)