that's a myth, way over-hyped.how do you skull the ball? if you hit the ball above the equator line.as long as you hit it with a descending swing it'll be ok.It's not as if once you take out a 14* wedge you'll skull all your chips.

you will see rust on chrome if you wear it away.
You should get a thin layer on oil can's but some people deliberately leave them out in the rain to make them rust quicker and they look terrible after a few months.

good point.I just hate looking at my vokeys now though, scratches aren't too bad but when they start to rust they look 10x worse.I think it's because the vokeys are made of a softer steel and bang up pretty easily compared to other cast wedges. I have some ancient wedges that got a lot of use which haven't started yet.if you look after the oil-can wedges they shouldn't rust too much

I have 14* of bounce on my SW.
Bounce isn't a bad thing, it stops the wedge digging in on soft ground/bunkers.
Chrome wedges are nice but when it starts wearing off they look terrible.
I'd pick the oil can because you'll get an even coat of rust, not just the sole and the parts of the face where you hit the ball most of the time.

it couldn't have been a real golf ball
was probably a foam one or something.
Nobody would be stupid enough to stand in-front of a driver shot like that. There's always a few people every year that die from it.

Adare Manor (old course) has a opening par 3.Terrible for competitions though, takes ages to get people out onto the course.there shouldn't be a par 3 until the 4th hole to get things moving.I was 10 when I played my first full round. I got 5 points off 28 (from the ladies tees).so that's like a handicap of 49, if you did it like that I shot a 121. I picked up my ball after 7 shots on the par 4's and after 8 on the par 5's to speed up play. Something you don't see a lot...