I checked 40K of my images, only 19 are at 1/8000, so for some, its not a frequent thing.

I do agree that some who do a lot of very bright day outdoor photography may hit that limit fairly often.

i shoot alot in bright sunshine typically at f8 or f11 though and i very rarely go over 1/500th at iso 100i guess if you did heaps of high speed sync stuff 1/8000 might be used a fair bit however i wouldnt let 1/4000 vs 1/8000 determine if i got a particular camera

Speaking of joysticks - does anyone else find their 5D mk ii joystick a bit 'sticky' when selecting AF points? Especially the corner ones. My 7D works just fine. Wondering if I should get it looked at it still under warranty.

KR is annoying and innacurate. He's kinda misleading too. Some people need 1/8000s , personally I'd rather have that feature than use NDs. I think he's stuck in a time bubble. We need a new prophet to guide us in these troubled times of lens caps and blinking AF points!

As for reviews I stick to the digital picture. I'll wait for Bryan's 6D review.

Why the zero in the links? Don't want to inadvertently help KR rise to the top of the searches?

Got it in one :-) ... outbound links from a large site with Canon content to KR are worth a lot of money because of the way google works - if I set them (even from the forum), I want a free 5d3 ... no, wait, I'd be even ok with a 6d!

As a side comment - broken links cause Google to lower the rank of the web site that carries them (in this case, CanonRumors.com), as broken links indicate the site is not maintained and lets info (such as said links) go out of date. It might be best to not mark the URL as a link, or allow marking links as nofollow.

Assuming Sunny 16, 1.2 and ISO 100 should result in a shutter speed of 1/16000, if my calculations aren't completely off-base. And that's just a rule of thumb, it could be brighter.

Frankly, I think shooting at 1.2 in sunlight without an ND filter is risky anyway. Even with an available shutter speed of 1/8000 you will be bumping up against it constantly, which means no latitude (for underexposure, etc.). Relying on the camera's max shutter speed to cover that scenario for you seems like pretty poor value, if that's the only reason it's necessary and leaving it out would reduce the cost of the camera.

Now using it for other things is a different matter altogether. For example, I don't know what kind of shutter speed you need to freeze a hummingbird's wings (I've never tried). If 1/8000 does it but 1/4000 doesn't, and that's a subject you shoot regularly, then in my book that would be a good reason to stick with a camera that provides 1/8000.

Frankly, I think shooting at 1.2 in sunlight without an ND filter is risky anyway. Even with an available shutter speed of 1/8000 you will be bumping up against it constantly, which means no latitude (for underexposure, etc.).

Indeed. I went and checked my stats, very few shots at 1/8000 s despite shooting with fast primes in sunlight. That's because when doing so, I always have a 3-stop ND on the lens. If that's a little too much (cloud passing by, for example), the 'penalty' from going to ISO 400-800 is minimal on the 5DII and 1D X.

Assuming Sunny 16, 1.2 and ISO 100 should result in a shutter speed of 1/16000, if my calculations aren't completely off-base. And that's just a rule of thumb, it could be brighter.

I only had one time where my cams maximum of 1/4000 wasnt enough. that was sunny and f1.8 iso 100. In that moment i wished for faster shutter speed. But it never happened again so far Now i really dont know what the 1/8000 shutter is needed for. Sports perhaps to freeze the action but i think for sports one uses tele lenses and they arent super wide open so they dont need 1/8000 also. And often some kind of "action blur" is not bad but enhances the image.

Just checked the hummingbird and saw many photos with 1/4000 and u could see the birds wings clearly.

With my 60d, I have a couple of hundred 1/8000s shots when I wanted to capture very fast motion like an insect in flight departing from a flower or shooting a train at full speed. But considering the 6d isn't made for that type of shots anyway cutting 1/8000 isn't what would stop me from buying it.

With sports I am usually F4-F7.1, F4 for participants out on the course, F7.1 for finish-line since bunches of people coming thru will more likely be in focus. Even at F4 I never go much beyond like 1/2500 sec on the brightest of days. Now shooting big apertures I havent done a lot of and I don't have any ND filters. I just don't like fiddling with them during weddings. I am open to something of that sort but only now because i have the 85 F1.2 again.

It might be best to not mark the URL as a link, or allow marking links as nofollow.

Thanks, I changed the first post - though I couldn't get the automatic url tagging and I don't know how to insert nofollow in the board url=... syntax - any hints?

I'm no expert on the subject, so I would have to let the site owner to check, if he wants to, on the abilities of this site's forum and answer. As he might not be reading every message on the forum, you might want to contact him personally on this issue.

It might be best to not mark the URL as a link, or allow marking links as nofollow.

Thanks, I changed the first post - though I couldn't get the automatic url tagging and I don't know how to insert nofollow in the board url=... syntax - any hints?

I'm no expert on the subject, so I would have to let the site owner to check, if he wants to, on the abilities of this site's forum and answer. As he might not be reading every message on the forum, you might want to contact him personally on this issue.