Beet Tartare at Strong Place in Carroll Gardens

The novel beet tartare is a clever variation on the now-conventional beet and goat-cheese salad.

No, that isn't a typo. It's "beet," not "beef." Yet at Strong Place -- a new neighborhood bistro named after a local street -- the chef has managed to translate the raw-meat classic into a vegetarian idiom. Cooked but still firm, the beets are shredded and made into a hockey puck, while a chunky feta spread sits on top, strewn with chopped green chives.

The tartare is offered with a little wad of microgreens (dressing, please!) and a broken papadam, and the totality makes a very rich appetizer, nearly an entrée. Other vegetarian dishes on the menu include gazpacho, market salad, grilled asparagus, homemade waffle chips with onion dip, a cheese selection, deviled eggs, and boiled peanuts. 270 Court Street, Brooklyn, 718-522-0913

Deviled eggs made with smoked paprika are another vegetarian option at Strong Place.