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FOOD + WINE

Tram bites: where to eat along the new T1 Leonardo line

Food highlights in the north of Florence

Editorial Staff

July 14, 2018 - 19:26

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As Florence opens its new northbound tramline, known as the T1 Leonardo line, we explore which restaurants and eateries are worth the ride to the outskirts. Cinderellas, be wise: trams stop after midnight (check here).

1/ Tram stop: Strozzi Fallaci

Poke bowls in a Gen Z space

OOO - Out of the Ordinary is the sparkling new concept eatery on the ground floor of just opened The Student Hotel Lavagnini. From nicely leavened pizzas to refreshing poke bowls, wholesome smoothies, cocktail bar complete with a vinyl corner/web radio and a hygge-chic coffee bar, the eclectic menu entices TSH’s resident students and curious citizens. Expect raw concrete, design-centric fixtures and signature colour schemes: the name couldn’t be more apt for this out-of-the-ordinary space.

Open 7am-2am.

Viale Spartaco Lavagnini 70–72, Florence

2/ Tram stop: Statuto

Popular (and impeccable) Roman-style pizza

ZeroZero is where Statuto locals feed their pizza habit. Pinsa romana is the house speciality, a lighter forefather of the favourite pie whose dough is made with wheat, soy and rice flours. The modern interior might not be much to write home about, but the long, rectangular pizzas topped with the likes of buffalo mozzarella, porcini mushrooms, truffles, sun-dried tomatoes and ricotta will inspire more regular tram riding. Also home to the Bivero' Pizza Academy offering pizza-making courses in English.

Open 7pm-midnight; closed Mondays.

Via Giovanni Lorenzoni 8, Florence

3/ Tram stop: Pisacane

Spice and the city

Thai merges old-school dishes with modern fare in a cosy corner along via Gian Domenico Romagnosi. Fans call it “the real Thai deal in Florence” and rave about the pad Thai, kao pad pak (fried rice and vegetables) and sweet yet piquant Tom Yam seafood soup. The 50-sitter locale is all wood and wicker, soft green walls and exotic plants: a welcome alternative when you’ve had your fill of pici, pappa and pomodori.

Open 7.30pm-midnight; closed Mondays.

Via Gian Domenico Romagnosi, 7R, Florence

4/ Tram stop: Pisacane

Spaghetti at midnight (and noon)

Go to Fratelli Briganti for the homely atmosphere. A favourite among Florentines, this historic haunt has been serving its famous garlicky spaghetti since 1960. Expect what’s in season: broad beans and young cheeses, cherries and tomatoes from the owners’ allotment. It’s one of the few restaurants in Florence where you can try specialities like bistecca alla Fiorentina at the perfect price/quality ratio, plus the zuccotto, a trifle-like dessert.

Open lunch and dinner daily.

Piazza Giorgini 12R, Florence

5/ Tram stop: Careggi

Stomaching the hospital

Ten out of ten for the play on words, locals swear by Mamo’s Il LampredottoRE's offal lunches whether they have hospital appointments or not. Expect a no-frills food stall and the very best lampredotto, a typical Florentine dish made from the fourth stomach of a cow, served in a Tuscan bread bun. If your tastes don’t turn to tripe, enjoy the peposo beef stew instead. Banter and laughter are par for the course.

6/ Tram stop: Careggi

Paris in the hills

La Bottega di Parigi scores highly among food and wine lovers despite its outlier status north of the Meyer children’s hospital. The 15-minute walk (or catch the new #33 bus, operational from July 21) from the Careggi tram stop works up an appetite for this sophisticated but subtle fine dining restaurant serving exquisite Mediterranean dishes. The entertaining handwritten wine list reveals gems by the glass (and bottle).