Eating In

Fish the Way God Intended

Give a man a fresh fish stick and he'll never go back to frozen

By Laura Marrich

In the whole gustatory scheme of things, fish sticks rank pretty low on the food chain. Think about it. You're much more likely to see fish sticks on an all-u-can-eat buffet than a respectable menu—and even then, it's really only intended for children. But it's not because they're horrible or anything. I'd gladly eat one over, say, lutefisk. Or raw sea urchin, or the quivering pucks of gefilte fish my grandpa so enjoys at Passover. These things are horrifyingly bad, yet they're all considered delicacies by their respective cultures. So why has the humble American fish stick been banished to the coldest reaches of our grocer's freezer? I'll tell you why. Because they're made out of total crap. Most fish stick brands are so loaded down with fillers and preservatives that some brands—ones I've actually eaten—have close to half a foot of ingredients listed on the package. As a result, commercial sticks often suffer from a slightly stale, chemical taste that can hang around long after you've swallowed it. Fish stick breath. Yech!

Fresh fish sticks, on the other hand, are a whole other story. Where frozen sticks are greasy and spongy, the homemade versions are crisp and light. When store-bought is pulpy and dry on the inside, homemade is flaky and tender. And instead of tasting fishy, these simple sticks just taste like fish. The following recipes are incredibly quick and easy, not to mention incredibly good. Pair your fresh fish sticks with sliced, baked beets (available right now at your local farmers' market), a green salad and, of course, tartar sauce.

Golden Fish Sticks

The fresher the fish, the better. We like the taste and texture of tilapia when making fish sticks from scratch.