Julie Hoover for Purl Soho: Olson

If, like me, your favorite shirts are loose with a generous armhole depth, when you want to layer something warmer over them, you can’t reach for a cardigan that has a traditional shape. That’s where Olson comes in, a cardigan inspired by a hole in my closet!

Olson has a deep Dolman sleeve and a steep shoulder slope, making it an ideal garment to pull on over almost anything. There is also subtle short-row hem shaping, slightly higher in the front than the back for a gentle sweep. In addition, a Modified Three-Needle Bind Off that celebrates (as well as joins) the long slope of the sleeve. Extra deep ribbed bands are the final touch.

For this classic knit, I chose Purl Soho’s Understory, a fantastic blend of alpaca, yak, and silk that looks and feels absolutely amazing in simple stockinette stitch. Its drape is lightweight, but it knits up into a wonderfully warm and cozy fabric.

I love the color Silver Berry, a pale lilac with a dose of gray that feels timeless and neutral but far from boring. I think it’s the perfect color for Olson, nothing too fancy but very special! -Julie

Thanks for writing in! Olson is worked flat in pieces from the bottom up. The shoulders are joining using a Modified 3-Needle Bind Off, and the sleeves are sewn together. Neckband is picked up and worked flat; cuffs are picked up and worked circularly. We do have a tutorial for the 3 needle bind off. We also have a tutorial for the mattress stitch which is a lovely, clean seam for stockinette.

Thanks for writing in! We are happy to offer alternatives! This sweater would be lovely in Cashmere Merino Bloom or Flax Down. Both are slightly different in gauge so I would be sure to knit a gauge swatch to make sure that you are getting a pleasing fabric and the correct gauge for this lovely sweater!

It would be great if you posted a bit more info on this pattern.. Sizes and yardage’s would be Great. Love the pattern but won’t buy until I know sizes and yardage’s. Not sure why this is not yet on Ravelry. maybe it is too new.. LOVE it !! And would knit with added info.

Thanks for writing in! The sizes for this lovely sweater are listed above. As this sweater has a lot of positive ease, be sure to note the “To fit actual chest circumference” just below the pattern sizes and choose your size based on actual chest circumference to get the correct fit!

Hello Cassy, thank you for all the info on this beautiful sweater. I want to double check that in your comment on the yardage needed, that this information is accurate?
“For this sweater you will need 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 7) skeins of Understory which will equal 1320 (1370, 1515, 1570, 1690, 1745) yards.”
I have the 1570 yards and am about to begin.
There was something posted that the yardage was incorrect but I wasn’t sure where.
Thanks again!

Thanks for the question! The yardage currently listed is correct and you should be all set to go! On the first day that the pattern was available, there was a different yardage that we then corrected. With 1570 yards you should be all set for the 51 1/2 inch size!

I have some baby alpaca (70%), silk yarn (30%) that I think would be beautiful to knit this sweater with but it’s more fine than the suggested yarn. Any suggestions as how to modify (if at all)? Thank you in advance.
Needles: 3.5mm (US 4)
Gauge: 10x10cm (4”x4”) = 23 sts x 30 rows

Thanks for writing in! The yarn that you are hoping to use is quite a bit thinner than the yarn that Julie used for this lovely cardigan. If you would like to use an alternate yarn, I would suggest looking for a yarn that knits up at 4.75 – 5.25 stitches per inch; roughly a DK weight!

Thanks for writing in! This lovely sweater is sized to fit an actual chest circumference of 30–32 (34–36, 38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52) inches. So for a 48″ chest, I would suggest knitting the second to last size, the 55″. There is quite a bit of ease in this lovely sweater that gives it its cozy but still polished look!

I purchased the yarn and the pattern both of which I love I’m a slightly loose knitter and no matter what size needles I try I keep getting 20 sts to 4″. Any suggestions? I really want to make this.
Thank you.

Thanks for writing in! If you are getting too many stitches per inch in your swatch, you will want to go up in needle size as it sounds like your gauge is a bit too tight. The other thing that you should be sure to do, is to block your swatch and measure it when it is fully dry as gauge can change upon blocking. Measure your swatch in a few places to make sure that you are getting accurate measurements. I know that swatching can sometimes feel like a bit of a hassle but in the end, you want to be sure that your fit is spot on!

Bought the pattern the other day. Cast on tonight. Gauge is spot on a size 7 needle. My question is Did the designer add extra to the amount of yarn needed ? .( most designers add axp 10% more yardage)
. I am very close on yardage and can’t get anymore of this yarn.
Thank you very much for this beautiful design. I can’ t wait to wear this beauty?

Thanks for writing in! We certainly did calculate in a bit more yardage to account for personal gauge. If you have the yardage that we recommend you should certainly have plenty of yarn to make this lovely sweater in your size.

Thanks for writing in! I do think that an advanced beginner with a background in knitting could achieve this sweater. It is primarily a stockinette sweater worked from the bottom up. The tricky part is the modified 3 needle bind off at the top of the arms but we do have a handy tutorial for that part. The majority of the sweater is a pleasantly straightforward knit!

I have a question about the neck band–how do you recommend picking up stitches? The pattern says to do a slipped stitch selvedge, but that makes it confusing to me on how to pick up stitches, since I can only do it every 2 rows. thanks!

I am making the 2nd size and I have a question about the Shape Dolman Sleeves section. As I read the increases, I should work the Sleeve Increase Row a total of 9 times, increasing 18 stitches. Given that I start with 106 stitches, I should therefore end up with 124, however the pattern reads 126. Am I reading the pattern correctly?

Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! You will be decreasing a total of 10 times for your size. You will work the increase row once and then continue on with the directions that begin with “Continue on in stockinette.” In other words, you work the increase row first and then work the 9 additional increase rows noted after the instruction for the increase row.

Thanks for writing in! You could give the knitted cast on a try. The main thing that you want to be careful about is that the backwards loop cast on gives you a nearly invisible cast on as well as a fair amount of elasticity. The knitted cast on is a bit bulkier and has a lot less elasticity. That said, if you make sure to keep it on the looser side, you can certainly give it a go!

One of my knitting goals is to make this sweater in 2018! I have seen and touched Understory and like the yarn, but if I want something more colorful, is there something else in the Purl yarn family that would work for this pattern?

I am looking at Flax Down or Cashmere Merino Bloom.

I’m also interested in some of the Woolfolk yarns…would any of them work with this pattern?

Thanks for writing in! We are happy to offer alternatives! This sweater would be lovely in Cashmere Merino Bloom or Flax Down. WoolFolk Far should also be a good option. All thres are slightly different in gauge so I would be sure to knit a gauge swatch to make sure that you are getting a pleasing fabric and the correct gauge for this lovely sweater!

I have a question about the left front “establish main fabric+shape hem” section. After the instructions “complete short rows 2 and 3 five more times”, there are still some leftover stitches on my needle. Is that correct? And, for the next instructions (continue in stockinette stitch for 3 more rows), do I continue across the entire row (knitting the leftover stitches that weren’t knit during the short row portion)?

Thanks for writing in! You are correct! When working short rows, you will only be working a portion of the stitches in a row, leaving extra stitches unworked. As you work the short rows, you will wrap and turn before the ends of the rows. Once you have completed the short rows, you will continue on working across the entirety of the next rows!

I have a question about the shoulder shape section for the short rows 3 and 4 it says work to 3 stitches before the previous wrap, wrp-t, does that mean to wrap and turn the 4th stitch from the wrapped stitch or do you count the wrapped stitch as one of those 3?

Happy to help! In the short row section, you will knit to 3 stitches before the previous wrap and turn. The wrapped and turn stitch will be the 4th stitch. You will then wrap and turn the next stitch, leaving 2 stitches before the previous wrapped and turned stitch.

Thanks for writing in! So long as the yarn that you have knits up to the same gauge as our Understory and you like the fabric it creates, you should be all set. As with any yarn substitution, you should always knit a gauge swatch!

I have completed the pattern up to finishing “shape shoulders” , did the repeat 19 times more. Plus one row. Now I am baffled at Shape left shoulder + neckline.my needles are now in the he back center of my work, and I cannot understand the directions for short row 1. Where do I start to knit the 40 stitches? It states on the right side. Knit 40……..

Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! Once you have completed the short rows in the “Shape Shoulder section” you will not be at the end of your work but rather off to the side. Holding the work with the right side facing you (the knit side), your working yarn and needles should be towards the right of your work. You will being knitting the 40 stitches here. It may be helpful to use a removeable stitch marker to mark where you are working as after you knit these 40 stitches, you will slip them to be on hold. You will then be near the middle of your work, where you will bind off for the neck and then continue working towards the left where you will work the left shoulder stitches.

Great question! The right leaning increase is worked by lifting the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on the left needle onto left needle and knit it, then slip the first stitch on left needle purlwise. The left leaning increase is worked by slipped the next stitch from left needle purlwise, then lift the left leg of the stitch below the slipped stitch onto left needle and knit it though the back loop.

Hello Kris,
This is a great question! When you are casting on at the beginning of the row you are using your working yarn to cast those stitches onto your left needle. This means that you will immediately knit them to go across your row.
I hope this is clear and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla

The Shape Shoulder and Neckline section has me confused. Instructions say to K39 then slip these stitches to scrap yarn or stitch holder for Right Shoulder. Am I slipping just the K39 stitches or the entire Right Shoulder to the scrap yarn?

So this will still leave 19 short rows still “on needles” on the right side. Is the slipping 39 just to give some extra space between the right side and left side while working the left side after the bind off for neck?

Hello E.C,
Great question! In this section you are working your left shoulder and your right shoulder separately, so you are putting your right side stitches on hold when working the left shoulder, and then you left shoulder stitches on hold as you work your right shoulder stitches.
I hope this all makes sense let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla

Hi there, I’ve had to redo the top of the back of the sweater once before and I am afraid I may have to again 🙁 And I am still not sure if I am getting it right. I have the right number of stitches which is good (224). The first time, when I was doing short rows, I think I was not understanding the notion of “three stitches before the wrapped stitch” because the neckline center was way off. Is the stitch around which the wrap is placed counted as one of the three? The first time I didn’t, and so it was rally like 4 stitches with the fourth being wrapped. I redid it and this time, it was three stitches total before the wrap around the third stitch, But the neckline is still not totally centered, or at least it doesn’t look that way to me. I wish I lived in NYC to come by for help, but trying to figure this out on my own and hoping I don’t need to redo it a third time!

Hello Margaret,
Thank you for reaching out! I hope I can help- are you at the “ESTABLISH MAIN FABRIC + SHAPE HEM” section of the pattern? Which size are you knitting- at which point do you have a total of 224 stitches?

When the pattern says “three stitches before the wrapped stitch” it does not count the stitch that is wrapped because it is before that stitch, so three stitches and then the stitch that is wrapped.

I hope this is helpful and that you will not need to go back again! Let me know if you continue to have issues and we can continue to trouble shoot the issue.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla

Thanks for writing in! I do think that you could use Good Wool for this lovely sweater! Good Wool is a bit thinner than Understory but they can knit up at the same gauge. This sweater is knit at a rather looser gauge and with plenty of easy. You can certainly knit a gauge swatch using Good Wool and if you like the fabric at the given gauge, go ahead with the sweater as written. If you like the fabric at a bit tighter than the given gauge, you could cast on a size or 2 larger depending on how much your chosen gauge varies from the given gauge!

I’m sorry to ask this question, but I’m not sure about the short row shaping for the shoulders. When the pattern states knit to 3 stitches before previous wrap…does this mean there is the previous wrapped stitch plus 3 stitches in front of it? So after w&t there are 2 stitches between each wrapped stitch?
I tried it this way and it didn’t seem right when I got to the neck shaping?

Great question! This is certainly up to you! I like either a 6 or 8 inch long DPN for the cuffs of this lovely sweater! Either length will work. I would not suggest going any smaller as it can mean that you would have to watch your stitches a bit more closely!

Thanks for reaching out! I think that a speckled yarn could be beautiful here! Most of this lovely sweater is stockinette so the speckles would not interfere with the patterning! I would suggest knitting up a small gauge swatch in stockinette and if you like the look, you will be good to go!

Hello. I have been working on this pattern in the “Establishing Main Fabric and Shape Hem”section and I learned how to do “short row 1 and short row 2” but then it says “Short row 3 and 4: work to 12 stitches before previous wrap, wrap-t”. Could you explain what “work” means? Am I continuing to purl to create the next stockenette row or is there another technique that I may not know happening here? Thank you for your help!

Hello Ashley,
Thank you for your question! When a pattern says to “work” It just means to work the stitch as established, so if you are continuing with stockinette you will purl on the wrong side and knit on the right side. It sounds like you are doing exactly what you are supposed to be doing!
Happy knitting,
Marilla

Thanks for writing in! We have quite a few linen and linen blends in a light fingering weight, which, held double, should be approximately a DK weight. I think this would be lovely in doubled Habu Natural Linen or Linen Quill, or even our Cattail Silk! As always though, make sure you do a gauge swatch!

Hello! I’m at the sleeve shaping part of the pattern (working on the back). Do you continue the slipped stitch on the first stitch of every row when you get to the Backward Loop cast ons at the beginning of the row? Or do you need to actually knit/purl the cast on stitches?

Hello Becky,
Thank you for this question! Thanks for writing in! For the whole of this pattern, you will maintain a 1 stitch slipped edge. This will include shape sleeve portion of the pattern with the backward loop cast on.
I hope this clears things up and let us know if you continue to have any issues!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla

I am on the neckband and am picking up the slipped stitch selvage which is giving me a significantly lower number of stitches than I need. Do you recommend I go further into the 2nd column? I’m making the second size and was only able to pick up 88 sts vs the 121 on the front. Thank you for any help!

Ran into a big issue with the picking up of stitches for the neckband. Pattern doesn’t specify if we are to pick up 3 of every 4 or pick up 2 of every 3. I did 3 of 4 and had more than the 121 stitches the pattern called for. Redid at 2 of 3 and it was within one stitch of the pattern. This info should be in the instructions. Also, the beginning of the instructions for knitting the hem say to work until approximately 4 inches. Giving a specific number of rows would help in getting the correct number of stitches picked up for the neckband.

Hello E.C. ,
Thank you for reaching out and giving us your feedback! I hear you, I always find picking up this many stitches can be a bit of a guessing game. Because the stitches being picked up are not going to work out perfectly even, mathematically speaking, what I like to do is place a stitch marker in the middle of each section as an extra guide to get as even an amount as possible.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla

I have a question about the neckband section at the end of the project. I picked up 288 around the right front, back neckline, and left front. If I follow the instructions for the short rows, the band will be much wider at the left front. Are all three sections supposed to be picked up at once?

Hello Courtney,
Thank you for reaching out! All 288 stitches will be picked up at once. The short row portion of the patten is adding materiel to the neck so you get an elegant fold. The first row of your short rows will get you almost to the end of the neckband section with 156 stitches – Short Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1, [p2, k2] 37 (38, 40, 41, 42, 43)
times, p2, k1, wrp-t. Once you are there you will be working back and fourth to create extra fabric. Because of where this first row orients you the extra fabric will be at the center of the neck and expand front there.

I hope this clears things up for you and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting and congratulations on being almost don with your sweater!
-Marilla

Hi,
I just bought your pattern and ordered the yarn Bloom. I have reviewed the instructions (Lots of short rows ). I understand all of them except the short row instructions for the Neckband. I’m confused about these instructions.
Am I to repeat the instructions given for short rows 3-6 for rows (4-6) and the same for rows
7-24 , (8-24) ? HELP……

Thanks for reaching out! For this part of the pattern, you will work the instructions following each group of rows for each row in that group. In other words, when the pattern says:

Short Rows 3-6: Work in pattern to previous wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, work 7 more stitches in 2×2 rib pattern, wrp-t

This means you will be repeating that row or set of instructions – “Work in pattern to previous wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, work 7 more stitches in 2×2 rib pattern, wrp-t” – for rows 3, 4, 5 and 6. Similarly, for rows 7-24, you will be repeating the row written out after “Short Rows 7-24” for each row.

For the second time I am at the shape left shoulder section and am once again confused. If I knit 40 stitches, move them to a holder and bind off 18, I am at 3 stitches before the last wrap. Then, if I do the bind off for the neckline there will not be 88 stitches remaining for the left shoulder. Any idea where I am going wrong? Thanks.

I charted out the shoulder shaping and it should work out fine. Before starting the shoulder shaping, you should have 224 stitches on the needle. After the last short row in the “Shape Shoulders” section, you should be about to purl and should have 63 stitches on your right hand needle (including the final wrapped stitch) and 161 stitches on your left hand needle. This should mean that after knitting the next 40 stitches, the 18 stitches you cast off are in the center of the back, and you will have 103 stitches left to complete the Left Shoulder Shaping. You should also have 43 stitches before your first wrapped stitch on this side.

Although I can’t say for sure what went wrong without seeing your work, is it possible that you did your short rows too far apart? If you had too many stitches between your wrap and turns, this would result in having fewer stitches left between the neck cast off and the first short row. When the short rows are done correctly, you should have clusters of 3 stitches (one wrapped, two unwrapped) separated by spaces on your needle. It can be difficult to see which stitch is the wrapped stitch, so if you are having trouble spotting them, you may wish to mark each wrapped stitch with a removable marker so you can easily see when you are three stitches before the wrapped stitch.

Hello Jaqueline,
Thank you fore reaching out! I would say as a very rough estimate that giving your about 50 yards would give you plenty of yarn for your swatch. I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla

I am making size 51-1/2. I am shaping the left shoulder and I assume the 20 stitches I bind off for the neck should be in the center. The 20th stitch that I bound off is at the center back, not the 10th stitch. It would be helpful if I knew how many stitches should be in the row before the 40 are knit, transferred to a stitch holder and then the 20 bound off. Can you please help?

Hello Lorena,
Thank you for reaching out! From my calculations it looks like you are working with 103 stitches inside the short rows from the shape shoulders section with a total of 232 stitches. This means that you after you knit 40 stitches and cast off your 20 stitches you will have 43 stitches before your wrap and turn from your previous row, so you will knit 40 stitches.
I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla

I am on the right front. In the section, Establish Main Fabric and Shape Hem, the short rows start on the wrong side with a purl row and then in row 3 after purling to the wrapped stitch, the directions say to knit up to the next wrap and turn. Should that be “purl”? The left front starts the short rows with a right side row. The right front adds a knit row after the ribbing, which is not on the left front and is the reason for the short rows starting on the wrong side. Thanks for your help.

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