Friday, March 21, 2014

Researchers Ranil Nanayakkara and Nilantha Vishvanath are on
a painstaking trail of the elusive and endangered sloth bear to ascertain its
population density in the Wilpattu National Park. Kumudini Hettiarachchi
reports

Wilpattu’s grandeur. Pix by M.A. Pushpa Kumara

For a brief moment in time, deadlines and headlines and also
domestic responsibilities placed on hold, we answered the call of the wild,
spending a day and a night amidst the pristine beauty of the largest National
Park in the country.

And unfold Wilpattu did its grandeur with stunning visions
of both its fauna and flora and also its unique villus.

Disappointed, however, we were that we could not catch even
a fleeting glimpse of one of the most iconic large land mammals of the country
– the sloth bear, among Sri Lanka’s ‘Big Three’ (the others being the elephant
and the leopard).

Sloth bear captured at night on a camera trap

The sightings of the sloth bear, which environmentalists and
villagers say has a reputation as “one of the most dangerous animals in the
wilds”, have been few and far between.

This is why deep within Wilpattu, where anecdotal evidence
suggests the presence of this elusive creature, a quest is on.

Away from their families and the comforts of their homes,
eating meagre meals and sometimes living on water and camping amidst the
stillness of Wilpattu broken only by the orchestras of insects, researchers
Ranil Nanayakkara and Nilantha

‘Shot’ by Ranil and Nilantha on their cameras

Vishvanath of ‘Biodiversity Education And Research’ which
aptly reads as BEAR are on a ‘hunt’ in earnest. They are not newcomers to the
field of research, with Ranil well-known for his work on the dugongs and he and
Nilantha carrying out joint work on tarantulas.

This is a hunt of a different kind and they are on the trail
of the sloth bear, armed with unobtrusive ‘camera traps’ which they fix to
trees in areas where they believe are their haunts. They are bent on capturing
images of these creatures while also spending long hours squinting at and
following their pug-prints and scats (droppings).

A proper census is needed before a conservation model can be
established for the sloth bear, says Ranil, explaining that they are attempting
to estimate the sloth bear population density in the Wilpattu National Park.

Nilantha (left) and Ranil fixing a camera trap to shed light
on the lives of the sloth bear

Pointing out that not much research has been carried out on
the sloth bear, as the major focus has been on the elephant and the leopard, he
underscores the importance of this project in the light of fears that their
population has dwindled.

Except for a study in the 1970s and a collaring project to
find the sloth bear’s home range at Wasgamuwa and Yala in the early 2000s, this
is an unstudied species, says Ranil.

Chatting with the Sunday Times at the Manawila bungalow
within Wilpattu during a break in their pursuit of the sloth bear, he compares
this project to others such as Project Tiger in India.

Attempting to conduct a census is challenging, says Ranil,
as there is not much research on the identification of individual sloth bears.
This is why camera trapping is being used as a census technique while also
capturing them on the powerful cameras that the duo carries with them on their
forays into the Wilpattu wilderness.

They have mobilised both the trackers and safari-jeep
drivers to keep tabs of the sloth bears that they sight, as the “park is very
big” and Ranil and Nilantha cannot traverse every inch of it. “Then we can put
together all the information we gather and establish individual identities,”
Ranil adds.

The camera trap technique is explained by Nilantha. Based on
a Google Earth aerial map, a virtual plot of 10sqkm has been demarcated, with that
too being sub-divided into 1kmX1km grids. This is the area in Maradanmaduwa
where the camera traps have been placed.

Whenever any animal passes by a motion sensor detects it and transmits
10-second video footage, says Nilantha going into the technicalities. The
images of the sloth bears are then used for the identification of individuals
by marks such as claw injuries suffered in fights. The images of the sloth
bears would also be compared with the photographs that both Ranil and Nilantha
click on their sophisticated cameras.

Another technique is the 10km line-transect which uses the
silent-device census in which Ranil and Nilantha drive up and down along that
area, recording all sightings.

The team is also closely studying pug-marks and meticulously
measuring their size to confirm whatever data that the camera traps would
yield, while also looking at scat density. The pug-mark, particularly of the
hind-foot would give a rough idea of the size and weight of the sloth bear,
points out Ranil, adding that they are also monitoring the foliage to get an
inkling of their preferred habitat.

Six months into the project, Ranil is of the view that they need to collect
information for at least three years to get an accurate picture on the density,
as the ranging patterns of the sloth bear change from season to season.

Dang or palu thiyena kaleta, the density would be more in
that area, smiles Nilantha.

An analysis of the scats would reveal the dietary habits of
the sloth bear, says Nilantha, what they have been eating at a particular time,
be it insects or termites or fruits such as weera, palu and dang. Adds Ranil:
“The scats have a seasonal variation.”

Unlike many others, this research project would not be just
a one-off effort. Once this reaches culmination, these plots would remain,
leaving a strong pulse through which an increase or decrease in the sloth bear
population in that particular area could be monitored.

The project, hopefully would not end in one year, but expand to cover the
lifestyle of the sloth bear, their behavioural patterns and also which is
deadlier – the male or the female.

With the sloth bear only found in India and a sub-species
endemic in Sri Lanka, this would truly be a study of global importance to
stymie this species from vanishing from the face of the earth.

A marriage to protect our biodiversity

It is a unique partnership. The ‘Estimate of the population
density of sloth bears at the Wilpattu National Park’ has seen the light of day
after BEAR joined hands with CIC Holdings with the broker of this marriage
being the Sri Lanka Business and Biodiversity Platform.

Business has a responsibility towards society but in recent
times we see a polarization between the two. We felt the need for the Platform
to bridge this gap, said CIC Managing Director and CEO Samantha Ranatunga,
himself a wildlife enthusiast. He plays a dual role – being an active member of
the Platform as well as funding the sloth bear project including the
importation of the camera traps and other logistics.

The Platform had been cobbled together as a joint initiative
of the Ceylon Chamber of Commerce, the International Union for the Conservation
of Nature (IUCN) and Dilmah Conservation in November 2012. Mr. Ranatunga is
Chairman of the Platform’s Advisory Committee.

Pointing out that there are many initiatives by the private
sector linked to biodiversity such as gathering and dissemination of
information and also preservation and conservation, Mr. Ranatunga said that the
Platform is a meeting point.

Mr. Ranatunga

Without working in isolation, the Platform would provide an
arena for the sharing of best practices, exchanging stories of excellence and
also bringing into the spotlight the work of unsung heroes while facilitating
important research such as the sloth bear project.

The Platform hopes to be the link between the private sector and the
researchers at ground-level to ensure that the investments are channelled for
worthwhile projects.

The sloth bear project had been picked as there are fears
over their dwindling numbers, the Sunday Times understands. With the ferocity
of the sloth bear being in no doubt and its regular haunts being in the
northeast, there have been suspicions that frequent human-bear encounters would
have been disadvantageous for the latter.

There has been a major lack of research on the sloth bear
and the Platform had felt the need for a baseline study to build-up a database,
it is learnt.

“This is a commendable initiative,” said Prof. Devaka
Weerakoon of the University of Colombo who provides scientific guidance on
methodology on a voluntary basis, adding that the sloth bear is the most
threatened species in recent times.

The sloth bear is listed as ‘Endangered’ in the National Red
List 2012 for Sri Lanka.

Reiterating that the sloth bear has not been looked at in a
scientific manner, Prof. Weerakoon recalled just one other project in recent
times — collaring the sloth bear or using telemetry at Wasgomuwa and Yala. This
is the “next serious study” which is non-intrusive and would have no impact on
the animals.

He too concedes that there is a deep mistrust of the private
sector that it is there only to make profits but not put something back and
lauds the efforts of the Platform to dispel this misconception.

Ms. de Silva

“We’ve just passed
the halfway mark of the sloth bear study,” says Platform Coordinator Harshini
de Silva, adding that this is Phase 1 and there are plans to extend the study.

Ten camera traps have been imported for the study which is
being conducted in collaboration with the Wildlife Conservation Department’s
Research and Training Division.

The financial management of the project is by the Platform.

Referring to how individual bears would be identified, Prof.
Weerakoon says that unlike the leopard with its specific spotting it may be
more difficult in this case as they have no significant markings. “Torn ears or
broken tails would be taken into account,” he adds.

While the data generated by this study would be analysed to
determine the sloth bear’s habitat needs, Ms. de Silva is quick to point out
that the camera traps have yielded “an unexpected bonus” – images of other
nocturnal animals.

With a vital need being more such studies and not only on
animals dubbed “charismatic” what everyone has on their minds is succinctly
made vocal by Mr. Ranatunga about the need to safeguard Sri Lanka’s
biodiversity.

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Today (20 March) is the World Sparrow Day (WSD), declared to
draw much-needed attention to the declining species and to harness popular
support in the efforts needed to conserve them. This day was initially named as
the World House Sparrow Day (WHSD) in 2010 but was broadened to include and
draw attention to the reduction of all species of sparrows in the world in 2011
and renamed as the World Sparrow Day (WSD).

House Sparrow

Image courtesy of Gehan de Silva Wijeyeratne

This is the fourth consecutive year the day is commemorated. It is an
international initiative carried out jointly by the Bombay Natural History
Society (BNHS), together with the Nature Forever Society, in co-operation with
various national and international bodies in different countries. This
initiative was the idea of Mohammad Dilwar of the Nature Forever Society who
has been studying them. It is seen that many countries have come to realize
that this very common bird, found always in the company of man, has been in
decline for the past decade or more in different countries. Hence, the
declaration of a World Sparrow Day (WSD) is a welcome move to draw attention
with a view to conserving them as well as to highlight the underlying causes.

The decline
The House Sparrow is a native of Asia, North Africa and Europe and has several
different sub-species (or forms) within this range. The form found in most of
the Indian sub-continent and Sri Lanka is the Indian House Sparrow (Passer
domesticus indicus).This species was introduced to Southern Africa, Australia,
America and oceanic islands by European invaders who made these countries their
colonies, for emotional reasons, as they wanted familiar plants and animals
amongst them in these unfamiliar and far-off places,(In some American bird
literature, it is still sometimes called the English Sparrow). In these new
habitats, the sparrow had no natural enemies and was able to breed and spread
very quickly. This happened so much that it was subsequently deemed as a pest
by some countries it colonized, in contrast to the native lands where it has
always been considered a welcome presence. The Guiness Book of Records on Birds
has listed it as the bird that has spread over much of the earth during the
past two centuries, because it is now found in over 2/3 of the land mass of the
earth.

Good luck
However, the decline of the only sparrow found in Sri Lanka the Indian House
Sparrow has been occurring since the mid-1970s' but has still not drawn the
attention it deserves. This is rather strange because the House Sparrow is one
of the most well-known and beloved birds in the country. It is welcomed by many
and some even go to the extent of providing suitable nesting sites to attract
them to houses. There is a belief that this bird brings good luck and
prosperity to the dwellers of houses where it is allowed to reside. Hence, it
is a great disappointment to some and a cause for unease and alarming to many
more, to see this bird vanishing from their houses. It has caused disappointment
to many who see it as a welcome and familiar presence in the surroundings. This
has drawn the interest of others who believe that there is an underlying
ecological warning behind this trend. The efforts to draw attention to the
disappearance have been carried out by me since 1998.

The decline of House Sparrows was detected by me in Ampara in 1976 and
subsequently in other parts of the country in the following years. My studies
and observations are still continuing from those days. What was observed
initially by me was that although the birds nested and laid eggs in our house
in Ampara as usual, the eggs failed to hatch and there were no subsequent
generations after the death of the parents. Thus, this decline was gradual and
caused them to vanish from our house by the end of that decade. However,
inquiries revealed that many people failed to notice it until there were no
House Sparrows in their houses and surroundings. This decline and subsequent
disappearance of House Sparrows has been observed by me in 17 Districts in Sri
Lanka. They are Colombo, Gampaha, Kalutara, Galle, Matara, Hambantota,
Kurunegala, Puttalam, Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Ampara, Monaragala, Badulla,
Kandy, Matale, Nuwara Eliya, Ratnapura and Kegalle. Since no studies were carried
out in the other districts, it is not possible to determine the status of the
House Sparrow in them.

Use of mosquito coils
The House Sparrow shows the same pattern of decline and disappearance
throughout the country. They breed as usual but the nests fail to produce any
young and they slowly reduce in numbers as the adults die and disappear after a
time. It is always seen that although it is absent in residential areas in many
of the districts; it is always plentiful in the busy town centres where there
are shops. This situation is seen even in the busy, commercial areas of
Colombo, Kandy, Galle and Matara where there are quite large and thriving
populations of the House Sparrows. In contrast, it is very much absent in the
residential areas of the same towns. The belief among the people of the
Digamadulla (Ampara) District who were aware of this in the late 1970s was that
Malathion which was sprayed to control the Anopheles mosquito (the
malaria-vector) was the cause for the decline. The next wave of decline of the
House Sparrow was seen since the mid1990's, notably in the Hambantota and
Badulla Districts, where they were quite plentiful during the 1980's when there
was a decline in many other districts.

Inquiries made in these areas in the 1990's revealed that the people of these
places where the second wave of decline occurred have been regularly using
mosquito coils. This use has occurred only a short time before a decline was
noted. These coils all have different types of synthetic Pyrethroids as active
ingredients. These synthetic Pyrethroids are known to be extremely toxic to
birds and interfere with the reproduction of birds and hence it is quite
possible that these chemicals would be a prime cause for the decline and
disappearance of House Sparrow.

The House Sparrow is a hardy, adaptable, omnivore that can feed on a very wide
range of edible matter, from seeds and grains to leftover food and insects and
other small creatures. Similarly, it builds the nest in any available nook and
cranny, and has a distinct preference to nest in human dwellings where it not
only finds resting and nesting sites, but also an abundant and steady supply of
food throughout the year. It is not shy of human presence and can always be
seen near people, searching for food and foraging around without getting
frightened. Hence, this decline is different from the decline of many others
who cannot adapt to urban areas. It was seen that the decline has nothing to do
with food or suitable dwelling sites both of which are still available in
abundance in all the places from which it has declined and disappeared.

Legal protection
The real reasons for the decline and disappearance of the House Sparrow from
many areas of Sri Lanka has yet to be ascertained and we can only presume some
possible causes and continue with the observations as was in the past to see
whether the causes can be definitely found out. It is also seen that there are
slight recoveries in some areas as in Nuwara Eliya since 2008, but is still too
early to predict whether this trend will continue in the future or spread to
other areas as well. In these circumstances, the move to make the House Sparrow
a protected species of birds is praiseworthy, as it show that the authorities
are aware of and are sensitive to the decline of this much liked and familiar
bird. This happened with the amending of the Fauna and Flora Protection
Ordinance in 2009, implementing a decision taken by the Ministry of Environment
in 2008. According to the provisions of Section 31 of the Fauna and Flora
Protection Ordinance (as amended by Act No. 22 of 2009), it is an offence to
kill, harm, injure, keeping in captivity, sell and any protected species of
bird or any part of a killed bird. It is an offence under Section 54 to make or
serve any food that contains any part of a protected species.

There are those who think that the House Sparrow does not need any legal
protection because no one seems to threaten their existence deliberately. The
only instances when this bird was deliberately killed were in a small area of
the Eastern Province where they were trapped and killed for human consumption.
It cannot be said that others may not acquire a taste for this bird as the
current trend is to feed on species that were unharmed during the past. The
more important reason may be to prevent the destruction of the breeding places
by those who may consider this bird as a nuisance.

The present decline of the House Sparrow seems to carry a deeper ecological
message, as presumed and feared by many. The fact that it can thrive in busy
non-residential areas but not in residential areas show that something found or
carried out in residences but not in commercial areas seems to be the cause for
the decline.

Deeper ecological message
A series of observations have shown that there are no people staying the night
in the commercial areas as opposed to residences and hence there are no
mosquito coils and chemicals being sprayed in these places. At the same time,
it was also found out that several other animals that were common in households
have vanished or are in decline. These include familiar creatures such as the
small Wolf Spiders (Jumping Spiders) and the Potter Wasps (Ran-Kumbala in
Sinhala). The total of these observations add credence to the assumption that
vector control measures could have contributed, not only for the decline of the
House Sparrow, but in a general decline of other animals that were found in
houses. Since all these chemicals are poisonous not only to the intended target
species but all creatures in general, and are more accurately referred to as
'Biocides' for this reason, the underlying message that is conveyed could well
be that we are slowly poisoning ourselves to death by the continuous and
increased reliance on them to control unwanted pests.

Friday, March 14, 2014

The garden is usually the last piece of the jigsaw.
Especially when it comes to hotel building. Normally it’s the foundations and
facades you see first. Not the grasses, plants and trees.

Jetwing
Vil Uyana is exceptional in many ways, however. Located in the shadow
of the UNESCO World Heritage site and rock fortress of Sigiriya, the concept of
this hotel was to create a place of unique beauty where the clocks turn back
two thousand years.

Consequently, environmental experts created plans for the
regeneration of three habitats: Three hectares of the hotel’s land is now
dominated by wetland and its associate flora and fauna, half a hectare is for
growing paddy using traditional and organic harvesting methods and two hectares
have been re-forested using species native to the dry zone. Not an easy task on
land that had, until that point, been totally depleted by slash and burn
agricultural practices. The first two years (2002 – 2004) were spent solely on
these creations, using specialist architects, engineers and irrigation experts.
Only indigenous plants were used, grown naturally while the wetland was being
created, with butterfly and bird attracting flora planted to enhance species
richness.

The 30 luxurious dwellings were then integrated into each
habitat, designed by Sunela Jayawardene, Sri Lanka’s leading environmental
architect, using wood, granite, thatch and concrete to create simple lodges,
built over the lake and marshland on stilts with access via wooden boardwalks.
Its success was immediate, with guests coming in their droves: 80 species of
birds, 17 species of mammals, 36 species of butterflies and 21 species of
amphibians now residing within the hotel grounds as well as rare and threatened
Otter and Fishing Cats. The VIP guest is the endemic and endangered Grey
Slender Loris - looking like it is now a full time resident, with a growing
population of nine.

Vil Uyana’s environmental creation sits perfectly with
Jetwing’s sustainable tourism ethos where the Jetwing Eternal Earth
Programme (JEEP) is the umbrella term used for all community and
nature-based projects. JEEP is split into four sections – Community Outreach
Initiatives, Sustainability, Eco Projects and Humanitarian Programmes.
Consequently, Vil Uyana has implemented energy efficient measures, using
a Green
Directory to monitor environmental performance across ten specified
key performance areas that include energy, water and waste. Monthly reports are
prepared and an annual independent audit is conducted. The second phase of
landscape regeneration has also now begun, with 'Trees
for Life', a forestation programme involving the local community, and just
one of several on-going community education projects, such as nature tours led
by the hotel’s resident naturalist and active partnerships with environmental
researchers, students and academics by offering them board and lodging. Such
initiatives show that the clock hasn’t turned back at all at Vil Uyana. Quite
the opposite. It is looking forward to a cleaner, greener and highly
sustainable future.

To find out more about this organisation please visit their
website Jetwing
Vil Uyana

Friday, March 7, 2014

There is a proverb used generally amongst village
communities; “For the Loris its offspring is a gem.” This proverb refers to the
loving nature of one of the country’s rarest animals – the Loris. Now, you may
not have used such a statement, or seen a Loris let alone heard one due to its
extremely elusive nature. In the case of villagers, asking them “have you seen
a loris?” would usually be met with the question: “is it the animal that sounds
like a cobra?”. When the same question is posed to one of the indigenous people
of Sri Lanka however, they say that the loris makes no sound; that they are
dumb and mute creatures.

They also believe that the loris does not emit sounds, as
they prefer to stay hidden. Living in the jungles of Sri Lanka, this animal is
considered to be a threatened species and faces extinction. Within Sri Lanka
four sub species have been identified, and among them the Grey Loris could be
found in the dry zone. Being a nocturnal animal and a slow mover, the grey
loris can however move away quickly when danger is sensed. Mainly they feed on
insects, but have been observed at times eating fruit found in the forest.

Generally the body size/length is about 08 inches and is a
small mammal weighing about 230 grams. Most of the time, it lives in solitude
though occasionally in pairs. The major threat to their survival is the fast
destruction of the forest cover where they live. An interesting find is that
the diversity of flora and fauna in Sri Lanka is a major tourist attraction to
both local and foreign visitors.

This gives rise to an interesting opportunity -introducing
Loris watching tours which would be a novel attraction. To the tourist who
likes night safaris / tours, Loris watching would be a perfect excursion. Of
course, it goes without saying that we should take care in every respect not to
disturb the animal during such excursions. To spice things up, folklore about
the Loris would be discussed, to provide an overall experience to a visitor.

I was fortunate to visit the indigenous people of Sri Lanka
that live in Dambana. The chieftain Uruwarige Wanila Aththo’s younger brother,
one Gunabandila Aththo provided us with lot of information enthusiastically and
in a cordial manner. My two companions, naturalists Sunil and Buddhika who
accompanied me gave me immense support in gathering information. They also said
that the Loris prefers certain trees to live in, and especially the “Kenda” (Helapeniya
othaniya) tree which they take cover in, and also move slowly through them.
This is where things became very interesting, as we learnt that the Loris is
such a careful animal that when climbing a tree if a piece of bark gets chipped
off, it will not allow it to fall but bring it down and placing it calmly without making any sound and climb up pursuing their
prey. In this manner they capture fledglings and other creatures efficiently
and also capture peacocks and eat their heads!

This animal species faces habitat loss today. When I first
started the loris watching excursions from Jetwing Vil Uyana, guests had to be
taken quite far to the forest. About two years ago, we made an astonishing
discovery: the loris had made its home in the forest area of Jetwing Vil Uyana!

Jetwing Vil Uyana, Sigiriya is fast becoming the easiest
location to see this rare and wonderful animal, and the management has taken
steps to preserve and conserve their habitats to ensure their survival.
Tourists who have taken this night walk to see the Loris have commented very
appreciatively and been thankful for the opportunity. They have even stated
that this excursion had been the best and the most exciting wildlife event they
have experienced during their visit!

For more information about the loris and loris watch
excursions, please contact Chaminda at Jetwing Vil Uyana on 066 4923585.

Family owned and in the tourism industry for the past 40
years, Jetwing Hotels has surpassed expectation at every aspect. Building on
their foundation of being passionate, as well as the experience of true,
traditional Sri Lankan hospitality, constantly pioneering discoveries captures
the essence of the brand. Such a strong statement and direction have enabled
Jetwing Hotels to imagine, create and manage marvels and masterpieces, where
distinctive design and elegant comfort complement each other and the
environment. Considered a priority, sustainable and responsible practice is
implemented through the award winning Jetwing Eternal Earth Programme; with
energy efficiency, community upliftment, and education of earth saving measures
to schoolchildren being a few tenets of the Programme.

Thursday, March 6, 2014

The Blue-and-white Flycatcher (Cyanoptila
cyanomelana) is a migratory songbird in the Old World flycatcher
family Muscicapidae. The species, also known as the Japanese Flyctacher,
is the only species in the genus Cyanoptila. It breeds in Japan, Korea,
and in parts of north eastern China and far eastern Russia. It
winters in South East Asia, especially in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Sumatra and
Borneo.

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

A rare species of white lizard with black stripes was caught
by Manjula Pushpakumara of Alupaswala in Siyambalanduwa while it was perched on
a tree in the area. The four inch long lizard which has lost its tail has been
handed over to the wildlife authorities.

The park claims to have the highest density of leopards in
Asia. Source: Supplied

IT MUST sound strange that the whiff of musty animal dung
can send shivers of anticipation up the spine.

But there’s no denying the excitement as we jump into the
four-wheel-drive to set off on a safari in Yala National Park, 300km south of
Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka.

We are on the lookout for wildlife in Sri Lanka’s premier
14,000ha national park where 32 species of mammals can be found, including
elephants, wild buffalo, wild boar, spotted deer and the prince of cats, the
leopard.

A safari vehicle at the main gate of Yala National Park. Source: Supplied

We follow the ochre coloured track, one of several that
crisscross the park, as it cuts through the thick low-lying scrub, open plains
and forest.

Its perfect camouflage even for animals as large as the
elephant, with vegetation so dense, even when the massive creatures are 10m
away, I only see them when our guide Sanesh points out three adults and two
calves feeding on thorny shrubs.

The Asian elephant, which is fairly widespread in the
undeveloped areas in the north, east and southeast of the 65,610sq km island,
seem unconcerned about their audience of three 4WDs loaded with tourists and
continue to feed contentedly, flapping their massive ears.

There’s a certain irony in the fact that while the animals
are wild, since the park was designated a wildlife sanctuary in 1938, 4WDs and
tourists are a common sight for these natives.

Yala National Park, also known as Ruhunu National Park, sits
on the southern tip of Sri Lanka and is the country’s showcase of conservation
and home to the densest population of leopards in the world.

This semi-arid region is now dotted with waterholes after
recent rains, attracting an amazing array of animals. I mentally tick them off:
macaques, peacocks, mongoose, rabbits and even wild buffalo and boar enjoying
mud baths despite there being crocodiles in the vicinity.

Tiny birds such as the bee eater, one of over 250 species of
dry zone birds, flit among the bushes while a rare find of an eagle perched on
a tree branch is a joy to capture on film.

Both my guide Sanesh and driver Sami have eagle eyes
themselves and point out a herd of perfectly camouflaged spotted deer among the
bushes and the tail of a land monitor poking out from a tree hole some 10m
above ground.

An hour into our ride, as we take a corner I suddenly spy a
leopard walking nonchalantly along the side of the track. We come to a sudden
stop and round the corner I hear a screech of brakes – another 4WD has sighted
this magnificent animal as well.

I hold my breath as we follow behind him, the leopard stops,
turns around to look at us and continues his slow walk along the track before
disappearing into the thick scrub. Within minutes, another four vehicles turn
up with camera lenses jutting out, all anxious to capture this secretive animal
that is one of almost 40 in this national park. A leopard sighting is today’s
trophy – and the thrill of witnessing this rare creature is palpable.

Crocodiles have the right of way in the park.Source: Supplied

Spotted deer often stay in large groups. Source: Supplied

The next trophy is the sloth bear. With four vehicles
stopped ahead of us, there was obviously a creature worth seeing. We joined the
queue and notice the bear quickly cross the road and disappear into the scrub.
Not a great photo opportunity but we were witness to an elusive creature.

After a three-hour safari where we have hit the jackpot with
the variety of animals sighted, we head back to our lodgings at Cinnamon WildYala, located adjacent to the national park. The eco-friendly resort has its
own lake with jungle or beachside chalets and bungalows nestled in light
shrubbery. As a result, the opportunity to see monkeys, lizards, squirrels and
even the resident wild elephant Short Tail is always close.

Appropriate signs are everywhere warning guests not to
venture too close to the animals. And once twilight settles, visitors are also
advised to wait for staff to escort them on their walks between the bungalows
and the main building in the event of an unexpected encounter.

Our comfortable jungle bungalow rooms with ensuite were
simply but tastefully furnished with today’s basics of TV, Wi-Fi and deck.

The dining room was on the second floor of the main building
for good reason – it prevented the wildlife from helping themselves. Even so,
with open verandas making a quick jump from nearby trees no obstacle to the
resident monkeys and squirrels, staff had to be quick to clear the tables.

The resort pool, which had a view of the scenic lake,
offered wonderful relief from the humidity. There was enough activity at the
water’s edge with water buffalo and water birds, and while poolside we were
fascinated to see a crocodile glide effortlessly to the bank of the lake within
50m of where we were sitting.

We had chosen to go on two safaris and while full-day tours
and night safaris are available, we opted for an afternoon tour and a morning
session the following day.

The two trips were enough to offer a glimpse of most of the
wildlife in the park. While the prince of cats has been described as elusive
and shy, two days spent on safari will almost guarantee a sighting.

LEOPARD CONSERVATION

The park claims to have the highest density of leopards in
Asia and as a result, an ongoing conflict exists between farmers and these
majestic felines. There is a strong movement to save the animals through
research and conservation groups have helped build steel cages and electric
fences to protect farmers’ livestock.

EFFECTS OF TSUNAMI IN 2004

Yala was in the direct path of the 2004 tsunami and suffered
severe but localised flooding with some 250 people killed while two park
resorts were destroyed by the tidal surge.

On our first safari, we stopped at a clearing by the beach
where a memorial stands by the remains of one of the hotels.

Interestingly, there were no sightings of large-scale animal
deaths, with reports that research done on two radio-collared elephants showed
their movements were prompted by cues generated by the tsunami waves rather
than a sixth sense.

The appropriately named Elephant Rock, a limestone outcrop
in the park. Source: Supplied

GO2 SRI LANKA

Getting there

The writer flew Singapore Airlines to Colombo. Other
airlines that fly to Sri Lanka include SriLankan Airlines, Malaysian Airlines
and Emirates. From Colombo, it’s best to hire a car with a driver for the four
to five-hour drive to Yala. The journey used to take 6-7 hours but the new
highway between Colombo and Galle has improved travelling time.

Another option is to fly into Mattala International Airport,
which is 60km from Cinnamon Wild Yala and a 1hr 15min drive.

Doing there

Yala National Park is open from 5.30am to 6pm daily and
closed in September during the dry season.

Monday, March 3, 2014

Jetwing Eco Holidays naturalist chauffeur guide I. G. Keith Brohier was on tour with Mr. Gunter and group reported seeing the same leopard on 3 jeep safaris to Yala National Park. He also reported seeing many species of birds and Elephants.