A Sandwich a Day: Meatloaf Sandwich at Fatted Calf in San Francisco

In this great country of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around the country. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know.—The Mgmt.

[Photograph: Carrie Vasios]

Marcella Hazan's husband nicknamed her "mangia panini" because of her habit of putting everything and anything between two slices of bread. One look at the Meatloaf Sandwich ($9.50) from Fatted Calf and I thought of Ms. Hazan, and knew this was her type of sandwich.

To be clear, this isn't a deconstructed meatloaf-like patty between two slices of bread. It's an actual slice of meatloaf. The meatloaf is delicious, as one taste of any other meat product at Fatted Calf could have supported. Made from a combination of ground beef, pork, and bacon that's been cured in-house, the loaf is well seasoned with herbs, onions, and carrots.

Since I'm not Ms. Hazan and I don't like sticking things between two slices of bread just for the heck of it, I wondered: Would I rather just eat this loaf plain? A few bites told me that, no, the loaf is elevated by the condiments around it.

There's a heavy smear of grainy dijon mustard and an ample layer of extra vinegary pickled onions. The double hit of acid brings out the best flavors of the meatloaf and provides a contrast to any fattiness. Overall, this sandwich has more flavor than a typical meatloaf, while still providing that classic, belly-filling comfort.

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