The Negative Diff is just like a normal diff (uses the standard gears) except it also has a centrifugal clutch inside.

At slow speed, say, when arriving at a corner, it acts like a normal open diff using light oil. When coming out of a corner with speed rising, the diff starts to lock up like a solid axle.
Because of this variable action, it works fine on tight or open tracks.

Haven't tried it on the MTX-3 but used one with the old V-One. No special maintenance is required. We just used some thin grease on the gears for lubrication.

Originally posted by Taylor-Racing The Negative Diff is just like a normal diff (uses the standard gears) except it also has a centrifugal clutch inside.

At slow speed, say, when arriving at a corner, it acts like a normal open diff using light oil. When coming out of a corner with speed rising, the diff starts to lock up like a solid axle.
Because of this variable action, it works fine on tight or open tracks.

Haven't tried it on the MTX-3 but used one with the old V-One. No special maintenance is required. We just used some thin grease on the gears for lubrication.

Thanks for the info...

Does it go by the normal diff oil selection in terms of weightage of does it have to be lighter than usual i.e. 10k on normal diff = 7k with neg diff?

User lighter diff oil. Remember, with Neg Diff, you'd want to take full advantage of diff on cornering. If possible, don't use diff oil at oil. Instead, use Mugen diff, apply liberally on between each bevel gears. Voila!

Quote:

Originally posted by coldfusion Thanks for the info...

Does it go by the normal diff oil selection in terms of weightage of does it have to be lighter than usual i.e. 10k on normal diff = 7k with neg diff?

Ok, checked the section and now am confused about what "gap" is and what "endplay" is. I guess I just pushed the clutch bell in as far as it would go set the calipers to zero and then "pulled" it out as far as I could. Just like the Mugen book showed. What the heck is the cefx trying to show/tell us?

Originally posted by Toster Ok, checked the section and now am confused about what "gap" is and what "endplay" is. I guess I just pushed the clutch bell in as far as it would go set the calipers to zero and then "pulled" it out as far as I could. Just like the Mugen book showed. What the heck is the cefx trying to show/tell us?

The article generally speaking suggest NOT to let the clutch easily touch endbell. It should have adequate gap ( 0.7mm ) so the clutch shoe don't touch the endbell at idle. We want to prevent glazing effect ( the clutch material melted to endbell ) which could prevent a good engine tuning.

The endplay is the gap between point A and B, it should have some "play" or gap. This endplay affect the clutch's initial contact in milisecond. You want the engine to rev up before the clucth totally grip or bite the endbell. The engine could die if the load is higher than engine's power at low rpm. Less shims give you harder punch and more shims give you softer punch.

Cefx wants you to setup the clutch so when everything is assembled, if you push the clutchbell towards the clutch, the clutch bell will not rub on the clutch. You will need a lot of shims, probably more than what came with your kit. I know the manual picture shows 2-3, but it will take more (or a thick shim) to keep the clutch bell from dragging on the clutch.

Either way, the gap is the distance between the clutch bell and the clutch when you push the clutch bell towards the clutch shoe.

As kinda stated, the way you set this is by putting shims between the clutch spring adjusting nut, and the inside clutch bearing.

Endplay is the distance that the clutch bell can move. When you assemble everything, the clutch bell will have space that it can move in and out (towards and away) from the clutch shoe. This space is adjusted by the spacers that are placed on the outside of the clutch on the thrust bearing. You add shims to decrease endplay and subtract them to increase endplay.

Does it go by the normal diff oil selection in terms of weightage of does it have to be lighter than usual i.e. 10k on normal diff = 7k with neg diff?

No, don't use a heavy oil. It's as eddiethefish says . . . just use something to lubricate the gears. We used a light grease but you could use, say, 5K or 7K silicon oil if you like. I would suggest not over 10K.

If you use something like 30K or 50K, you will defeat the ability for the diff to work in slow tight corners.

The Neg. Diff's strong point is it's adaptability/versatility provided by the clutch.

It is a tad heavier than a stock diff, and certainly more expensive, but you don't need to keep three of them in your pit box and change them out for different tracks.

My MTX-3 has developed a loose condition on power but only when turning to the right. this seems to have happened afer a nasty crash a few weeks ago. I have gone though and checked all the obvious causes. I did find that the radio plate was cracked and the aluminium radio tray support was bent. I replaced those with new ones. I have the 4mm chassis and it does not seem bent. I did not take it off the car but on a flat surface while attached to the care it seems straight. Put it on the tweak station and it seems fine. This is only when turning right, basically if I give it gas it spins out. To the left I can hammer the throttle all day and it never breaks loose. I am a little stumped. any suggestions?

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1