Description

This is a long and fun route up the right side of the Ripple Wall. The crux may be getting off the ground. Although mostly easy climbing, it is a bit runout by Red Rock standards, but not bad at all. I recommend belaying your partner up to the anchor to avoid rope drag and to enjoy the view.

Rappel with two ropes to the left to make the pull easier.

Location

This is the third route from the right on the Ripple Wall. Start just left of Jumping the Gun, angling up and left past two drilled angle pitons. Continue traversing straight left to a third piton, then climb straight up to the very top of the wall. The last piton currently has a screw link on it, but this is not the anchor, continue another 25 feet or so to reach the obvious anchor. Rappel with TWO ropes.

Protection

5 drilled pitons, 2 huge eyebolts, and 1 railroad spike! Make sure you have 3 long runners to girth-hitch the eyebolts and spike. Anchor consists of 3 drilled angle pitons and two modern bolts.

Just climbed this today with Nathan... watch out for the junky stuff toward the bottom. Also had a significant amount of pebbles coming down. Several "pull down not out" opportunities. One even crumbled under my foot.

A fun route, I like the style too- more like mountaineering, with odd fixed gear and reasonable run-outs (compared to the other routes in the park). Could be wrong, but the start felt as hard as Jumping the Gun (5.9+) and other 9s in the area.

One last thing- I didn't know about the length of the route, and only had one 60 meter rope. Rather than lower off a single point, I decided to rap over to the anchors of Jumping the Gun. This is definitely not a good idea, the traverse over a ledge to get to the anchors involved lots of loose rock, In fact I pulled off a fist size chunk when I pulled my rope. Just saying, be smarter than me and take two ropes.

Also, the last pin no longer has a screw-link on it, which is a good thing, I'd rather not lower off that single pin.

I really wanted to try this route, but I honestly could not see how to get off the ground. There's one big ledge for the hands under the first piton but no feet at all. Jump and mantel / hand-foot match? Seriously, who's got the beta for the start, this guy wants to know!