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Saturday, February 11, 2017

As I promised in the previous video about how to build a LED projector from your old phone.

Today I'll show how to make multimedia projector from the old tablet.

Many people did not like the music Previous video, so I asked my nine-year daughter to voice this video in English.

The basic idea was to make a projection in the form of an old camera in steampunk style and do not spend money on the project.

The basis of the old I took the tablet, where the touch sensor is working poorly, and that is just a couple of minutes working on the battery.

Since the projector to do - say goodbye to the tablet. 50% chance that you will break it in the process of dismantling or projector construction.

Before starting to disassemble the tablet - turn it on and make sure it works.

TIP: Before disassembling install all the necessary software, especially remote control sowt, for example teamviewer.

TIP: Turn off automatic screen coup and install the software for the screen forced coup.

I also needed a lens and light emitting diodes (much).

Getting tablet disassembly.

Remove the plastic front and unscrew the screws, in many models of tablets can skip this step, as they have no mounting screws .

Remove the back cover using the old credit card.

Note the location of the Flex ribbon cable.

Flex cables for connecting the screen.

Flex cables for connecting the touch sensor.

Flex cables for WI-FI module.

Flex cables to connect the camera.

Flex cables for connecting the control buttons.

Battery wires.

Disconnect the battery cable and carefully peel off the battery, not to damage it.

Attention at the damage the battery can catch fire or even explode!

TIP: If you want to replace the batteries with new - save the controller, and solder only the battery.

Schematic diagram of the projector: Light Source, screen and lens.

We continue to disassemble the tablet.

Gently disable cables from the main board.

TIP: Take a picture of the location of the loops before dismantling, then it will be easier to assemble;-)

ATTENTION! Unscrew the screws that hold the main board. CAREFULLY raise a main board, and see what is soldered to it! Gently peel off the mounting parts (speaker, microphone, camera, vibration, sensors).

Remove the screen and hide it in a bag to avoid scratching or dusty.

Carefully remove the touch sensor, it is very fragile, and hide it in a bag to avoid scratching or dusty.

Connecting the screen and check the possible relative positioning of the screen and the main board. It depends on the location of these components in the projector and the form the projector.

Mark up the mounting dimensions and making plastic coasters fee. I made out of old marker pens.

The case I have gathered from a plywood box of tangerines.

Temporary case for gather tests on hot polymer glue .

IMPORTANT! In the final assembly polymer glue can not be used. LEDs are heated and can melt it!

The screen should be positioned to face the light source otherwise the image will be a mirror!

Carefully dismantle the screen block in the screen itself and the lenses and LED panel.

If the LED backlight is soldered to the main flex cables - carefully cut the wires backlight.

Now the most interesting - polarizing film. It is dark and strongly adhered to the screen. Very gently pry the knife edge. Do not pull up! The film is easily broken! I peel off the film with the help of paper, slightly raised - slipped paper.

Disassembly is complete - it is necessary to test the functionality of the device and make sure how a polarizing film.

When correctly positioned image with normal colors, the reverse - the colors are inverted in the negative. Two options with no visible effects.

Since I was planning the project as a stylish vintage decor elements designed in the form of retro camera - then the next step was the production of photographic bellows. First training on plain paper, and then the final version of thick black paper. I took a black paper for pastels.

Then I make a light source.

The main task - how to evenly distribute the light sources across the lamp area.

Note, the source of the LED strip me enough to test only works, for normal functioning of the LEDs need much stronger!

I have ordered them in China, the price will be about $ 10. In the following video, I'll show them.

ATTENTION! LEDs strongly heated when operating at full load, so you need to make a forced cooling. I perfectly approached the fan and heatsink on the old video card.

TIP: Make lamp stand-alone to be mounted on a tripod! It perfectly soft box for video and photography.

At the final assembly of the body of plywood I used PVA glue and cloth for fixing elements of the case.

The lens I made from tin cans of olives and lenses. I have a basic lens - 10x macro head for 58mm lenses, worth about $ 3 in China. But you can choose from existing in homes. Polarizing film, I did not cut it, and for polarization used a polarizing filter for lenses with 58mm thread which is has wound to the main lens.

TIP: Make sure to install the correct polarization filter, before the final lens gathering.

The next stage is quite complicated, setting the touch sensor and the lengthening of the Flex cables.

Flex sensor is very short, to extend it fit the old ribbon cable from the drive. After cutting the loop is easy to clean contacts for soldering with a diamond drill and needle files. Further, simple;-) Carefully divided, solder and insulate each wiring.

TIP: Record the loop resistance between the contacts, then it will be easier to check the quality of the soldering loop.

TIP: When installing the sensor in the housing, ensure the correct orientation of the sensor, or the sensor will be work in mirror mode.

TIP: Flex is best done with a longer reserve to placed it along the body.

Final: The projector is running, but want a more vivid picture. I look forward to more powerful LEDs.

TIP: In the process of construction, check availability tablet, if it stopped working - I congratulate, the projector over the building for you;-)