This is probably going to sound ridiculous to most of you, but I want to verify something...can I install an amp without removing my door panels? I'm thinking of just connecting the speaker wire from the amp to the existing speaker wire behind the HU to limit the chances of me messing something up.

If this is possible, is my sound quality going to noticeably suffer from using the stock wires? Since I've got to have speaker wire whichever way I go, how much do I need to run from the amp (behind back seat) to all 4 doors and a sub?

Yikes.
I think it would be just as hard to do it ghetto style like you're considering. Why not remove your door panels ? I think there's more risk doing this what I consider the 'wrong' way.

I think tapping into factory wires to increased the chances of something going wrong. I just did a full install and tapped into the steering wheel wires only.

However, if you want to try it this way I'm sure it can be done. But I am not feeling it. On the flip side, it took me a long time to finish this project.
I just feel it's a terrible waste of money and time if you don't do the basics correctly...Might not sound any better than stock in the end.

In the meantime, cruise this audio-video section. I've personally posted damn near 100 photos, and there is some really good info in the sticky's and other people's posts.. Lots of good info right here.

This is probably going to sound ridiculous to most of you, but I want to verify something...can I install an amp without removing my door panels? I'm thinking of just connecting the speaker wire from the amp to the existing speaker wire behind the HU to limit the chances of me messing something up.

If this is possible, is my sound quality going to noticeably suffer from using the stock wires? Since I've got to have speaker wire whichever way I go, how much do I need to run from the amp (behind back seat) to all 4 doors and a sub?

This is probably going to sound ridiculous to most of you, but I want to verify something...can I install an amp without removing my door panels? I'm thinking of just connecting the speaker wire from the amp to the existing speaker wire behind the HU to limit the chances of me messing something up.

If this is possible, is my sound quality going to noticeably suffer from using the stock wires? Since I've got to have speaker wire whichever way I go, how much do I need to run from the amp (behind back seat) to all 4 doors and a sub?

Thanks!

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First off, copper is copper. The stock wiring will be adequate if you add an amp. However, I am not sure I understand why you would be doing this. I would not amplify stock speakers, as they do not have very high power handling. To add to that, amplifying the stock speakers is kinda like trying to polish a turd.

If you add all new speaker wire (which I'd recommend) I'd buy 50' of something larger than 22 awg. I'd look for something in the 16-18awg for ease of placement.

there's nothing wrong with doing it that way... If you have an aftermarket Head unit. then it is easy. all you have to do is bring in the new wires into behind the HU, and solder them up to the harness (if you were smart and got a wiring harness.)

Sooner, I have actually already had all of my door speakers replaced with kenwood after markets, so the amp will be pushing them and a single sub. Had this done at a local shop. I guess more of a concern than taking the door panels off is having to run the new speaker wire to the doors if it's not really necessary.

So here's where I'm at...if the existing wire is adequate, then I'd like to save the trouble of accessing the doors. If it's going to sound noticeably better by replacing all of the wire, I'll tackle that b/c I do have 60' of 16 gauge wire ordered. What you think?

I don't have enough background with this stuff to know whether an after market wire is going to sound better than the existing factory wire. I do understand after market is better quality wire, but if you can't tell the difference audibly then what's the point of replacing it???

Aftermarket speaker wire, IMHO, will sound absolutely no different than any other speaker wire of the same gauge. Copper is copper.

Your weakest link is most likely that LOC, so the brand or type of speaker wire you use should be of little concern. Heck, even if you have super high end speakers and HU and all that fancy stuff, speaker and power wires are still of very little significance.

The reason that I like to run my own speaker wire is to make sure that there is nothing wired inline with the stock stuff that I may not be able to see. There might be a bass blocker (capacitor) wired in there at some spot that I didn't know about, and that would adversely affect the sound. I also like to take things apart and add fancy colored wire that has cool +'s and -'s on it so I know what is what.

If you has some shielded 16ga beldin it might make a difference, but what's already there is the same as speaker wire. there would be no difference. just make sure your splice points are good and you'll be "a ok".

PS If you are worried about sound quality, why do you still have the stock HU?

Also, try not to run your rca's and speaker cables too close to the power cables for your amp, that will make a bigger difference than anything.

If you has some shielded 16ga beldin it might make a difference, but what's already there is the same as speaker wire. there would be no difference. just make sure your splice points are good and you'll be "a ok".

PS If you are worried about sound quality, why do you still have the stock HU?

Also, try not to run your rca's and speaker cables too close to the power cables for your amp, that will make a bigger difference than anything.

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Shielded speaker wire will make no difference.

The stock HU can sound pretty decent with proper equalization.

If it were possible to have less audible than shielding speaker cables, RCA cables next to the power wire would be it. It will have no effect on SQ nor will it induce noise.

If it were possible to have less audible than shielding speaker cables, RCA cables next to the power wire would be it. It will have no effect on SQ nor will it induce noise.

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I would beg to differ on that point. DC power can be induced into rca's quite easily if they are side by side. It can cause alternator whine, and other interference, usually in the high range. This is solved by using higher voltage signal on the rca's or using a ground loop isolator.

ive been installing for about 15 years. and i would definilty use the stock speaker wire and stock speakers for that matter. no reason to use new wire when you already have perfectly good wire in the doors already.

I would beg to differ on that point. DC power can be induced into rca's quite easily if they are side by side. It can cause alternator whine, and other interference, usually in the high range. This is solved by using higher voltage signal on the rca's or using a ground loop isolator.

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Beg all you want, physics doesn't support your claims.

If you are getting engine noise induced into your sound, it is not your power wire near your RCAs. Most likely, you have a grounding issue and a ground loop isolator can work to fix that. However in an automotive body with lots of steel around, there should be no need for that. Just make sure you have a clean grounding point with adequate wire and solid connections.

If you are afraid to open your doors, then you do not want to use the stock wiring. You will be much better off running new wires. Either way, you are still going to run wires from the amp to the speakers or amp to behind the HU.

Thanks for all of the advice guys. As soon as my amp install kit arrives from knukonceptz I'm going to give it a shot just splicing in behind the HU. Hopefully I'll have good results to post in a few days.

As long as you have solid connections to the stock wiring, you'll have no issues at all. There are a TON of myths and urban legends out there that spew out wrong information, you have to be able to sift through all the BS and get to the core of it....and it's been stated already several times by Sooner....copper is copper. For your application, you are good to go IMO.

If you were willing to drive up here, I'd help you out no problem. Only about 4 hours north of you on I-49.

GoBlueFan I finally got the amp installed this weekend. Took all freaking day but it's working and only a few minor scratches on the dash Now I just need that box to come in so I can hook up the sub for the finished product!