Totally ruin the front end of the car but oh well, they're needed. Maybe I'll throw some di-noc on them so they sort of go with my vents being CF. I would have got the cf version if I bought them new, but for $75 shipped from my buddy I couldn't pass it up.

I'd be willing to bet the Killer B pan is lighter than OEM. Aluminum vs steel. The killer b pan weighs 3 lbs 11 oz. We'll see what the oem pan weighs when I pull it off.

Like I said before, not much benefit to it right now. The pickup is a bit of insurance. The pan and baffle are more for the built engine, but I may just put them on while I have the current engine out during the clutch. The pan may have benefits when I take the car to the strip though. More oil capacity (1.3 qts over OEM) = better cooling, it has better baffling than oem so maybe it'll keep oil off the crank during hard acceleration.

After three years that stupid gasket around the throttle body hose finally popped off and caused a nice boost leak. I'm surprised I've never had issues with it like other guys have, but I yanked it off and all is well.

Also, the wife ended up getting this weekend off so I canceled the clutch install with my uncle. Tigers game and house hunting instead. It's been over two months since we've had a weekend off together so I'm capitalizing on this one.

Clutch will be done sometime in May now. Not in a huge rush anyways, it holds just fine for dd use.

after your clutch install or during you should remove the spring, retainer and valve thing out of the clutch master cylinder. subi started putting them in there around or before 06 and its a pressure release valve. basically subi thinks its there to give the clutch an easier time engaging to save the tranny. but the older weak gears were the issue and that item wasnt the right fix. with the harder clutch you will get more chatter and harsher engagment. (if i understood what i read correctly)

Well looks like my wideband is either out of whack or has a dead sensor. All I get is a blinking 7.4 after a few minutes of running. It starts up just fine, works for a while, then goes back to blinking 7.4.

The sucky part is all my parts to calibrate it are buried in a storage locker after the move from NE so I have no way of calibrating it. The plug for the bung is also in that box so I can't remove the sensor the plug the bung to avoid burning out the sensor if it's not heating up during the blinking 7.4.

Basically I'm assuming I'll need to order a new wideband sensor because I've already driven about 60 miles with the sensor flashing 7.4. I close on the new house June 1st and plan on emptying out the storage unit then, so I won't be able to get to it until then.