BY COOLIE AND CARAVAN ACROSS CENTRAL ASIA
were wide alkali plains, where the hard
ened crust had an appearance of broken
ice cakes. The deepest point is 980 feet
below sea level; our elevation was ap
proximately -910 feet where we turned
north to reach the city of Turfan.
The depression is a wide valley, 70
miles in length by 30 in width. From the
bottom one looks north to the Bogdo-ola
peaks (see, also, map, page 374), more
than 12,ooo feet in height. The proxim
ity of the depression to these mountain
masses causes violent winds at times, and
it was noticeable that sand drifted only
on the southern sides of the rocks and
small eminences.
Near the edges of the depression are
many series of wells which follow under
ground streams of water, and which have
been dug to depths of fully 50 feet with
infinite pains, apparently to locate the sub
surface flows.
Although there are tremendous alkali
beds here, the water which flows in these
underground streams is sweet and drink
able. Near the lowest point of the depres
sion is a small lake of strongly alkali water
which has no outlet, evaporation taking
care of whatever moisture reaches it.
Beyond Turfan the cart road leads
through rocky defiles three marches to
Tihwafu, the capital of Chinese Tukestan.
and more Chinese than other cities of
Sinkiang. Like all cities in the interior of
China and the Chinese portions of those
in Turkestan, it is surrounded by a high
wall. The city gates are closed at sunset
and travelers arriving at night must re
main outside until after sunrise, when the
gates are opened (page 420).
A REMOTE RADIO STATION
We again found an excellently built
and well-operated radio station and were
able to send messages to the outside world,
for it talks with Mukden, in Manchuria,
and with Kashgar to the south.
There is also a telegraph wire connect
ing Peking with Tihwafu and Kashgar,
though it is out of service much of the
time. As we rode along this telegraph
line, it was easy to see why the service is
irregular. Less than half of the poles
have insulators, and where an insulator is
broken the wire is either nailed or tied to
the pole.
We were guests of Mr. Cavaliere, the
Chinese postal commissioner for Turke
stan, and through his assistance we ar
ranged for the governor's aid in procuring
camels later at Kuchengtze. The commis
sioner also helped us replenish food sup
plies and engaged our transport east.
There is a colony of 200 Russians in
the capital. At our request the Soviet
consul gave us a letter of introduction to
his colleague at Kobdo, in Mongolia. He
said it would also be of service should we
not go to Kobdo, but travel more directly
eastward.
We could learn little regarding Mon
golia, for since the revolution there has
been almost no trade between Turkestan
and that country; nor could the Chinese
give us any assistance beyond the frontier.
their authority in Mongolia having long
since ceased.
THE "TELEGA" IS A CRUDE VEHICLE
On the ith of October we continued
east toward Kuchengtze, using telegas
for transportation of kit; we traveled be
side these small, four-wheeled vehicles on
horseback (see page 419).
In contrast with the 8-foot gauge of the
lumbering arabas previously used (see
text, page 390), the telega has a gauge of
three feet. When we first examined these
little vehicles, we felt doubtful that they
would ever reach Kuchengtze. They were
crudely constructed, rope and wire hold
ing them together at vital parts, with
wooden pegs used in place of bolts.
Three small horses, hitched abreast, pulled
each cart.
We were even more skeptical that these
animals could travel the 150 miles in three
days, as the drivers had promised. Not
only did they do so, however, but they
arrived in Kuchengtze at the end of the
third day apparently traveling as easily
as at the outset!
From here the road follows the north
ern slopes of the snowy Bogdo-ola, the
local name for a portion of the northern
range of the Tien Shan. Part of the way
leads through irrigated areas and cultiva
tion.
Hereabout we saw many evidences, in
the abandoned farms and villages, of the
results of an uprising in Turkestan some
years ago. The natives drove out the