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cold Engine and Drivetrain Procedures Check Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm none Note: In most cases the alternator belt does not need to be checked any more. Early models should have the pulley and belt upgrade that came out a few years ago. Current recommendations are that the belt is installed and adjusted, then not disturbed until 36K when replacement is specified. 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Check the belt for cracks or shredding. 4. Check the belt tension, quite tight, ~1/4″ deflection when you press on the center. Note: Paul Glaves suggests that proper belt tension is when you can twist the belt ~90 degrees, midway between the pulleys. If you can twist it more than 90 degrees, it is too loose. If you cannot twist it 90 degrees, then it is too tight. 5. Leave the cover off for the valve adjustment procedure on the next page. Change Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm alternator belt socket – 13mm ratchet wrench – 13mm torque wrench 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, that hold the alternator – one is on top and one is on each side, thus allowing the alternator to pivot down. 4. Remove the old belt. (Some bikes have a pipe that traps the belt – loosen it enough to get the old belt out and the new belt in) 5. Install the new belt being sure it is properly seated. 6. BMW calls for a tensioning torque of 5.9 ft.lb. (8 Nm) on the adjuster bolt on the left side of the bike. You have to get at this bolt from the alternator side and you may have to lift the tank. Alternatively, you can pry the alternator up with a large screwdriver to tension the belt. 7. Once the belt is under proper tension, tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, to 15 ft.lb. (20 Nm). 8. Check the belt for proper tension (see above) and proper seating alignment

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1. Shift transmission to neutral. Before installation of the emergency belt, to avoid personal injury and/or vehicle damage, secure the motorcycle. Both stand and motorcycle must be on solid, level ground. Failure to follow instructions could result in death or serious injury. 2. See Figure 1. Remove spring clip (4) (if present) and loosen rear axle nut (1). 3. Loosen rear axle adjuster (3) (or adjuster nut, if so equipped) on each side of motorcycle, and move rear wheel to full forward position. 4. Remove the damaged/broken belt. 5. Inspect sprockets and belt guard (2) for damage and/or debris. Remove any debris. If sprockets and belt guard are not damaged, proceed with the installation. 6. Remove belt guard. 40171-97,40146-00 1 WARNING i06186 Figure 1. Axle 1. Axle nut 2. Belt guard 3. Adjuster 4. Spring clip 2 4 1 3 7. See Figure 2. Install feeder strip on emergency belt. 8. Feed strip around transmission sprocket in a counterclockwise direction over frame cross support. 9. See Figure 3. Interlock the “v” ends of the emergency belt. a. Insert a hex socket key in the fourth (4) and ninth (6) tooth holes. b. Place the splice block (2) over the seventh (5) tooth hole. c. Install a socket head set screw (3) in the seventh tooth. Tighten using another hex socket key. d. Move the block to the next tooth, and repeat installation steps (b) and (c) in each tooth until all 12 screws are installed. NOTE There are 16 screws included in this kit. However, only 12 screws will actually be installed in the belt. The remaining four screws are spares. 10. See Figure 4. Grasp the emergency belt at the mid point of the lower run between your thumb and forefinger and lift the belt up to take up any slack in the belt. Measure the distance that the belt deflects (2) under tension (1). When two pounds of tension is applied to the lower run of the emergency belt, the belt deflection should be within the following measurements

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Information: In an effort to reduce service volume, a maintenance-free ribbed Poly-V belt was adopted on all R1100 models from engine number 38946130 onwards (09/94 production onwards). This belt does not need to be retentioned (even at the 600 mile service). The old belt required replacement every 24,000 miles. The new style belt is to be replaced every 36,000 miles. Use the same torque procedure as the old belt. Replacement of an old style belt with the new maintenance free belt requires the use of the new parts below: Parts Kit: 12 31 1 342 086 (kit consists of the following) In addition to the Poly-V belt, the following parts were also changed: 1. Top pulley new: steel old: Aluminum 2. Bottom pulley new no spot welds: old: steel w/three spot welds on front 3. Belt new: Ribbed, printing on belt (1342059 Fa. Dayco) or (1341779 Fa. Conti) Slight squeaking may be heard for a short time after a cold start when temperature is below 50°F. The belt should reach it’s correct operating tension soon after the start up. The belt only needs retentioned if the slight squeaking does not stop after warm up.

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Relieve the tension of the toothed belt and lift the belt off the belt wheel (refer to F 650CS Repair Manual, 00.57). 2) Remove 6 screws (see arrow in photo at right). 3) Remove the rear belt wheel. 4) Clean and degrease the tapered bores and the threads of the mounting screws 5) Carefully place the new belt wheel in position on the damper, coat the screw threads with Loctite 243 and hand tighten the securing screws. 6) Tighten the securing screws to the specified torque maintaining a diagonally opposite tightening sequence throughout (Torque to 28 NM, curing time 12 hours). 7) Measure the vertical runout of the belt wheel (refer to F 650 CS Repair Manual, 33.15). 8) Install and adjust the rear drive belt (refer to F 650 CS Repair Manual 00.57 – 00.58) 2.1 Removal of the front belt wheel Remove the front belt wheel in accordance with the instructions detailed in the F 650 CS Repair Manual. Remove the securing screw of the activated charcoal filter and let the filter canister hang by one side by the hoses, or remove it and lay it aside. Clean the splines and threads of the main shaft in order to remove all traces of Loctite. If necessary, remove corrosion from the main shaft spline (use only a brass bristle brush). 2.2 Visual inspection Check the splines of the main shaft for damage. Replace the main shaft if the splines are damaged (broken, chipped, bent or damaged teeth). Refer to the F 650 CS Repair Manual for this procedure.

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1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

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The 40101-80 kit, with a 126 tooth belt, fits: •1980-1986 FXB and 1984-1986 FXWG models This kit may also be used on 1989-1992 international Softail models with a 127 tooth belt. The 40171-97 kit, with a 130 tooth belt, fits: •1995 and later domestic Softail models •1994 and later international Softail models •1994 and later international Dyna models The 40109-86 kit, with a 132 tooth belt, fits •1986-1992 and 1994 domestic Softail models •1989-1993 international FLT and FXR models This kit may also be used on the following models with 133 tooth belts: •1991 and later domestic Dyna models •1991-1992 international Dyna models •1994-1995 international FLT models The 40100-85 kit, with a 136 tooth belt, fits: •1985-1994 domestic FXR models •1985-1996 domestic FLT models •1996 international FLT models The 40112-97 kit, with a 139 tooth belt fits •1997 FLT models Installation 1. Put transmission in ‘Neutral’. 2. Loosen rear axle nut. Loosen rear axle adjuster nut on each side of motorcycle, and move rear wheel to full forward position. 3. Remove the damaged/broken belt. 4. Inspect sprockets and belt guard for damage and/or debris. Remove any debris. If sprockets and belt guard are not damaged, proceed with the installation. 5. See Figure 1. Remove belt guard. 6. See Figure 2. Install feeder strip on emergency belt. Feed strip around transmission sprocket in a counterclockwise direction over frame cross support.

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INSTALLATION : The spacer behind the front pulley should be removed prior to installing the belt drive. This spacer may or may not be required to correctly align the pulleys. If a spacer is needed for alignment, various sizes are available from your local Primo Belt Drives dealer (part number PX-1 =package of 6 various sizes). With all supporting components installed, install front pulley, lubricate and reinstall the clutch hub. Loop the belt around the front and rear pulleys, and gently push into place. Use the washer and nut supplied with the kit on the front motor shaft, (always use an impact wrench on splined shaft motors) tighten to 80-100 foot pounds of torque. After installing and adjusting clutch, track the belt by turning the pulleys. If needed us a straight edge between the front and rear pulleys to check alignment. Improper alignment of the pulleys will result in reduced belt life. Spacing the motor pulley outward will cause the belt to track towards the outer primary cover. If spaced too far out the belt will rub on the inside of the clutch shell. ENCLOSED INSTALLATIONS: The same disassembly is required, with the exception of the clutch hub and inner primary. We recommend using our PC-1000-Acomplete clutch assembly. Loop the belt around both pulleys to insure that you have the proper belt for your pulleys, then gently push the unit into place. Use the washer and nut supplied with the kit on the motor shaft. Torque the motor nut to 80-100 foot pounds . Adjust the clutch & check belt / pulley alignment. Before installing the primary cover be sure that everything inside clears both the outer and inner covers. In some cases a small amount of metal may need to be removed from one or more of the bosses on the inner or outer primary covers

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Entering its next generation, BMW Motorrad Integral ABS is taking a quantum leap in the process of evolution, advancing from a stand-alone solution acting only on the brakes into a fully networked all-round system. Offering the new generation of Integral ABS, BMW Motorrad provides the foundation for additional dynamic riding control systems with a reduction in technical requirements and features. And following the customer’s wishes, this new generation also opens up the option in future for further-reaching rider assistance functions. The first step in this direction is BMW Motorrad ASC Automatic Stability Control available as of 2007. This system serving to control drive spin on a production motorcycles is being introduced as an optional extra on the touring models in the BMW K and Boxer Series. Once again, therefore, BMW is acting as the pioneer in the introduction of advanced safety technologies on the motorcycle. This further enhances the leadership which BMW Motorrad has shown in the area of active safety for more than 15 years. Choosing the right development partner for both systems, BMW Motorrad obviously had to focus on that partner’s specific competence in control technology and the networking of functions within the vehicle. In recent years, major car suppliers have become aware of the technical challenges presented by the motorcycle with its specific riding dynamics and the growing potential for motorcycle control systems in the market. The decisive point in preselection of the development partner was the willingness and ability to develop specialised solutions suitable for use on BMW motorcycles. So taking this into account, joint development of the new generation of ABS brake technology started together with Continental-Teves in early 2003. Integral ABS. BMW Motorrad’s new Integral ABS technology has been developed separately from the previous system and the entire layout of the system has been newly conceived from the ground up. Capitalising on progress in technology in both hydraulics and electronics, the development engineers have succeeded in simplifying the architecture of the system while at the same time enhancing its functions to an even higher standard. The result is supreme stopping power and very short stopping distances even without electrical power assistance on the brakes.