7 Responses to Battle In The Bubble Highlight Reel

No offense here, but the problems seem pretty boring, especially the last moves. Every single problem shown except for one of the womens problems ends with a lunge to the side. Seemed like a cool comp, but the route setting seemed mediocre at best.

I hope there isn’t a temptation to sacrifice variety of movement and technique for tv-friendly flashiness when climbing makes its Olympic debut (assuming that happens). At the same time I wonder how the difficulty of something really technical but without giant moves would be conveyed to a general audience.

Yeah I would agree. It is hard when you want to please the crowd with high-flying moves, but as a competitor that would get old really quick. Some of that comes from the fact that people who don’t climb and understand the moves in these routes, wouldn’t get the complexity behind the moves.

although i have not climbed on the problems from the finals, i have seen them up close and personal (on the wall as it now stands in the spot) and must say that there is a variety of movement and sequences throughout them all. also, i believe that the second dyno was not intended on mens number one, which is a bit of a mistake. what might have been the goal was a mix between gabor and julians beta. also, one goal of the setting (i believe) was to have obvious moves (for the crowd) instead of small moves upwards or to the side. one last thing is that, with traditional american bouldering competitions, the finishing hold is almost always a jug. therefore the move to it is often big, interesting, frightening, etc.