Review on The Torridon, 1887 Restaurant

'Kilted out' in full baronial style, this grand Scottish baronial mansion stands proud in wild country, miles from anywhere, at the head of Upper Loch Torridon. It was once a shooting lodge and the presence of stags' antlers on the walls should give you some idea of what to expect. The restaurant makes much of its historic pine panelling, antique furnishings and high-backed Jacobean-style chairs, although the kitchen has its feet firmly in the present.

Home-grown vegetables, herbs and fruit from the two-acre kitchen garden, Highland meat and daily supplies of local shellfish and other seafood dictate culinary proceedings. Samples from the repertoire could include ravioli of pigeon and hazelnuts with casserole of green lentils, baked rolled veal stuffed with herbs and Ricotta with sweet potato and red pepper fondue, and roast red mullet 'sandwich' with shallot and basil filling and creamy onion velouté.

There's also a full slate for vegetarians, a separate 'Scottish' menu and a 'Seafood' menu, plus an array of desserts that might include poached pears with ginger shortbread, 'cool' coconut blancmange with Carnation Milk ice cream, and pineapple tarte Tatin. Lunches are served in the bar, which also boasts a mighty collection of around 300 malt whiskies. The lengthy international wine list is also worth serious consideration.