D44 alloy axles vs Stck D60 axles who wins? Hypothetically speaking!!!! exp. Jeep with stk 350 chevy motor with 4.10 gears on 38.5 mudders, which breaks first, in this example? I know there are many varibles, keep it simple. Just wanted opinions.

You answered your own question. Too Many Variables.

Dana 44 rears and Dana 60 FF rears both use the same shaft.

Dana 44 alloy fronts are still weaker than Dana 60 35 spline OEM fronts. The U-joints/ears are a weak point. Compare with Toyota alloys which don't use a U-joint which are stronger than a stock dana 60 front 35 spline (stock failure point is the u-joint/ears)

Dana 44 alloy fronts are still weaker than Dana 60 35 spline OEM fronts. The U-joints/ears are a weak point. Compare with Toyota alloys which don't use a U-joint which are stronger than a stock dana 60 front 35 spline (stock failure point is the u-joint/ears)

Generally, the data I've seen says a 35 spline dana 60 front is a little stronger than dana 44 alloy shafts. You'd need to also go to some high strength U-joints like longs or ctms to eliminate the weak link.

To give you an idea of what strength is there to be gained, a stock dana 44 shaft is around 5000 ft-lbs before it snaps. My toyota front shafts, which are also 1.31" 30 spline, snap at 9100 ft-lbs. There's no neck down on mine, and the longfield joints are stronger than the axleshaft itself, so you get the big gain.

Some of the gain is not in the ultimate breaking point, but the amount of elasticity in the shaft itself. Stock shafts fail usually after twisting 20-40 degrees, where many aftermarket shafts can go 90 degrees of twist before failure, especially stuff better than the usual 4340 chrom-moly.

Time for the Dana 35 crowd to check in.
Should I go the cheap route (alloy axles @ $360/pair), or do the Super 35 upgrade ($1033) if I'm running 34" LTB's?
I'm currently running 33" mudders on a stock D35 without a problem, but I want more bite.

Time for the Dana 35 crowd to check in.
Should I go the cheap route (alloy axles @ $360/pair), or do the Super 35 upgrade ($1033) if I'm running 34" LTB's?
I'm currently running 33" mudders on a stock D35 without a problem, but I want more bite.

would it more cost effective to swap to a dana 44 instead? stronger tubes as well

I considered an 8.8, but if you add the cost of 4.88 gears, shock mounts, spring purches, and a locker, I find myself once again behind the financial 8-ball.
I consider myself the unluckiest person on Earth, whereas my friend is the luckiest. He's running a locked stock D35 with 36" swampers without a problem. I think I will go with the super 35 kit.

i had 35X15.50 super swampers on my stock dana 35 w/ no problems. i got a dana 44 to build, just for some security.
it depends on how hard you bounce around and how much power output your engine has; you would be able to use the stock 35 if you took it easy

I considered an 8.8, but if you add the cost of 4.88 gears, shock mounts, spring purches, and a locker, I find myself once again behind the financial 8-ball.
I consider myself the unluckiest person on Earth, whereas my friend is the luckiest. He's running a locked stock D35 with 36" swampers without a problem. I think I will go with the super 35 kit.

Thats not luck , thats use of the gas pedal making the difference . I my self went from tech driver to throttle guy . Man that cost me

I considered an 8.8, but if you add the cost of 4.88 gears, shock mounts, spring purches, and a locker, I find myself once again behind the financial 8-ball.
I consider myself the unluckiest person on Earth, whereas my friend is the luckiest. He's running a locked stock D35 with 36" swampers without a problem. I think I will go with the super 35 kit.

Umm Yes!

If you are considering this, check out my for sale add for the axles. D30/8.8 combo w/arb's. The D30 has every upgrade available including alloy shafts and the lockout hubs. No vac dissconnect necessary. Geared 4.56 though.