Chengdu, a metropolis of some 10 million souls in China’s Sichuan province, is so much more than a provincial capital. One of the biggest cities in China, it’s a springboard for the country’s fantastically diverse western regions, and its traditional chili-strong cuisine is legendary. Although far from the glitzy east coast megacities of Beijing and Shanghai, Chengdu has become the third biggest luxury market in the country, largely due to government efforts. Brands from Louis Vuitton to Cartier have set up shop in the city (earlier this year Chanel hosted a fashion show there).

But what truly makes the city a pleasurable visit are its eternally good vibes; slow-going, clean, and fun-loving, Chengdu’s reputation as one of the China’s mellower metropolises is well-deserved.

Bordered by the Qionglai and Longmen mountains, Chengdu sits in a sprawling valley at about 1,600 feet. It has a humid subtropical climate defined by four seasons and a relatively mild winter; the average temperature in the summer is a temperate 77 degrees Fahrenheit. The cityscape is one of towering skyscrapers and condominium high-rises (the world’s largest building in terms of floor area is in Chengdu). Curving serpentlike through the city is the Jin River.

Though there is debate around its origins, Chengdu was likely founded by the Qin, the first dynasty of imperial China, in the 3rd century BC. Later, in 221 BC, it became the capital of the Shu, an independent kingdom. Famous for its high-quality satins and elegant brocades, Chengdu has long been known for luxury. During the Song Dynasty (960-1279 AD), it is said that paper money was introduced by the city’s merchants before quickly spreading throughout China. Since 1368, it has been the capital of Sichuan.

Chengdu is a UNESCO World City of Gastronomy.
Getty Images

EAT

Chengdu is a UNESCO World City of Gastronomy, and Sichuan, long known as the “Storehouse of Heaven,” is pretty much agriculturally self-sufficient, which means that nearly everything you eat will be fresh and locally sourced.

Dip your toes in with Chengdu Food Tours, a wonderfully comprehensive overview of the city’s culinary offerings. Though started only three years ago by veteran Canadian expat Jordan Porter, it has garnered plenty of well-deserved praise. For some fantastic Sichuanese cuisine in regal surrounds, get a table at the Shang Palace at the Shangri-La Chengdu.

For the local speciality, hot pot, a glorious meat and chili-heavy fondue-like experience, there is the impressively designed Huang Cheng Lao Ma, built and run by artists; there are often exhibitions up from local creatives. Whatever you eat in Chengdu, you’ll be satisfied and surprised; huajiao, a Chinese peppercorn ubiquitous in Sichuanese cooking, produces a buzzing, numbing sensation in the mouth, which can bewilder virgin eaters.

DRINK

JING, a chic bar at the Temple House hotel, is mindblowing in both decor and drink—try the huajiao-infused Sichuan Mule. The recently opened MATATA cocktail bar, a small speakeasy-esque joint with a Van Gogh obsession, has an expansive selection of whiskeys and world-class cocktails. Hugo Brewpub boasts some impressive craft beers, such as Guizhou smoked chili porter, as does Nanmen Craft Brewery, a large, boisterous place, which, beyond the Sichuanese-speaking patrons, would not be out of place in Denver or Portland.

STAY

Chengdu has no shortage of luxury accommodations, but chief among them is the Temple House, a modern 142-room seamless blending of the ancient and modern China, which opened in 2015. The lobby and entry courtyard is a beautifully refurbished 150-year-old Qing Dynasty building. For a more conventional take on Oriental luxury, there is the Shangri-La Chengdu, 36-floors of high-class elegance overlooking a picturesque stretch of the Jin River.

EXPERIENCE

No trip to Chengdu would be complete without visiting the Wenshu Monastery, a Sui Dynasty era (617-605 BC) complex with a splendid garden and temples. There is also Qingyang Gong, the oldest Taoist temple in the city. For literary history buffs, there is Du Fu’s Thatched Cottage Museum, former home of the famous Manchurian poet Du Fu (712-770 AD), overlooking the Huanhua River, where he penned over 240 poems (English speaking guides are available).

The Chengdu Museum, built in a sci-fi-esque behemoth of a building, is also well worth a visit. There are also worthy day-trips. About two hours away from Chengdu is the Leshan Giant Buddha, a 233-foot-tall stone Tang Dynasty depiction and UNESCO World Heritage Site. And, of course, make your pilgrimage to the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, a 45-minute drive from downtown Chengdu. Early morning visits ensure active pandas, and fewer people.

Temple House and Shangri-La provided complimentary stays to the writer.

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