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I'm currently trying to change up my brakes and possibly my shifters to something similar, yet different. I have a 78 Schwinn Le Tour III and I want some brake levers that are a little, tighter. I can't really rely too much on the lever for the top of the bars because they are kinda worn out and old. Are there new age suicide lever style breaks out there that I could put on? I would also like a design that allows me to hide the cable under the padding.

If no lever out there exist that has some sort of better technology with the same style, could you recommend a good lever where I can at least hide the cable under the wrap?

So I would have to put on dual brake pads? My bike doesn't look like it coould have two more cables on it, would I be able to attach it correctly with my type of set up?

That's kind of why I was trying to stick with the older style so I wouldn't have to mess with my bike too much. Do they make the ones like mine but made out of better material? I can't seem to find any new.

Initially marketed primarily for cyclocross, these are also an excellent choice for the touring or long distance cyclist, permitting you to brake from the top part of the handlebar.
Unlike the 1970s extension levers, these don't interfere with the main brake levers. They install in the middle of the cable run.

These can also be used as primary levers without the normal drop bar levers.

Look - the interrupter-levers simply daisy-chain your lever's together ON THE SAME SIDE OF THE HANDLEBARS. So you would have two levers that would activate the rear-brake - one in the drops as usual, and one next to the stem. And the same thing for the front-brake - two levers to choose from.

OR you could remove the usual levers/hoods from the drops in your handlebars and just keep the interrupter levers next to the stem on top of the bars. The choice would be yours.

The nice thing about these interrupter levers is they work as well as your regular levers (in the drops). Unlike the 'suicide-levers' of old, the interrupters do not interfere with the regular lever's operation. They work the same way on the same cable.

I've been trying to find a schematic diagram to show you how these work with pictures, but I couldn't find anything. Oh Google, why hast thou forsaken me?

Anyway, I'll try to explain it in words. Imagine, if you will, you fit a cable from the brakes at the wheel, and leave the end loose. You grab the inner cable with a pair of pliers. Pulling the cable pulls the brake on. See how that works? Just like an ordinary lever. Now, cut a hole in the outer sheathing half way down the cable, and use a second set of pliers to grab the inner cable there. The brake comes on. Now you can pull the cable with either one of your pliers, at the end, or wherever you make a hole in the outer sheathing. The new interrupter levers are just like the second pair of pliers half way along the cable. One cable, two levers - the cable isn't cut, it's just grabbed by the interrupter levers.

I'm still not 100% clear but i'm just going to go to a bike shop and ask someone in person. Maybe they'll take me seriously.

To be serious, you should have no problems with the interrupter brakes. I've seen them installed on a bicycle belonging to the daughter of one of BF's members, and thought they were a great idea. He installed them because his daughter has small hands, and had difficulty using regular brake levers.

Your LBS should be able to help you with the installation.

Enjoy them!

East Hill

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Anyway, I'll try to explain it in words. Imagine, if you will, you fit a cable from the brakes at the wheel, and leave the end loose. You grab the inner cable with a pair of pliers. Pulling the cable pulls the brake on. See how that works? Just like an ordinary lever. Now, cut a hole in the outer sheathing half way down the cable, and use a second set of pliers to grab the inner cable there. The brake comes on. Now you can pull the cable with either one of your pliers, at the end, or wherever you make a hole in the outer sheathing. The new interrupter levers are just like the second pair of pliers half way along the cable. One cable, two levers - the cable isn't cut, it's just grabbed by the interrupter levers.

Actually, the cable not grabbed by the interrupter levers at all. What happens is that the levers push the cable housing -- which, in a roundabout way, is like making the cable shorter than the housing.

It's like when you turn a barrel adjuster to increase cable tension -- the barrel adjuster doesn't move the cable at all, and instead pushes on the housing. The only difference here is that the interrupter lever pushes the housing a lot farther.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bianchigirll

that is a neat set up. I get them where?

Anywhere, pretty much. Ask for interrupter levers, or cross levers (since they're more common on cyclocross bikes), etc. My LBS had a few extras sitting around from singlespeed/fixed gear installations and gave me one for free (I just wanted one for the front for standing at intersections and when I'm forced to ride on the sidewalk at 4 mph).

And, personally, I think that this ^^^ is the nicest bang-for-the-buck upgrade for an older bike like the OP's. The new style brake hoods are so much more comfortable, and the cross levers work really well.