Pommes de terre

Photography: Antonia Pesenti

7:47PM, Jun 14, 2012

I come from a long line of Bavarians reared on potatoes. My
childhood memories are of rich potato soups with Frankfurter
sausage; beef stews mopped up with potato dumplings; and a
wonderful thing called Bratkartoffeln, a fried potato dish made
with yesterday's boiled potatoes, onions and speck.

Potatoes add comfort to a dish in a way bread, polenta or pasta
just can't match. They can also be really luxurious - and French
cooks, in particular, take the potato to a whole new level. Think
of the classic pommes purée: not just mash but a creamy, rich
purée. Or galette, or pommes Anna, a cake of potato wafers cooked
in clarified butter until golden and crisp. A dish I often cook at
home is pommes boulangère, which is thinly sliced potatoes and
onions cooked in chicken stock with white pepper and dobs of
butter, topped with Gruyère cheese. It makes a roast chook
sing.

The humble potato has come a long way in a short time. Not long
ago you had a choice between red and white. Now my local
greengrocer has 10 varieties to choose from at the height of the
potato season - which is fantastic, but it can be a bit daunting if
you're not familiar with all of them.

Potatoes are categorised as new or mature, and by variety. New
potatoes have been dug up early. They have very thin skin and a
crisp texture, which makes them lovely boiled or roasted whole for
salads and sides, but they're light on flavour. Most potatoes are
harvested mature; they tend to be richer in taste and can be
floury, waxy or somewhere in between.

Waxy varieties, such as kipflers, are dense in texture and are
low in starch. This makes them ideal for boiling and salads because
they have great flavour and hold their shape once cooked. They do
not, however, make good mash (too gluggy), nor are they ideal for
chips. On the other end of the spectrum are the potatoes we term
floury - such as the sebago and the russet Burbank, which are high
in starch, and low in sugar and moisture. They fry up beautifully
but tend to collapse when boiled. Then there are varieties of
potatoes which are somewhere in between.

Potato plants grow in the summer months then gradually die down,
leaving the tubers waiting in the ground to be dug up throughout
autumn and winter. Australia's extensive climatic range, however,
means we are able to get fresh potatoes year round. The Victorian
harvest starts in late December and continues through to around
August. The season travels north through the Mallee to northern NSW
and finishes in Queensland, which supplies the majority of our
potatoes from November to January. Stored well, potatoes will last
many weeks, even months.

My picks of the varieties are Nicola for salads and gratin;
Dutch cream for soups; King Edward and royal blue, an old Scottish
heritage variety, for mash and gnocchi; and russet Burbank and
Otway red for roasting and pommes frites.

Gordon Jones, a potato farmer in Warragul, Gippsland, says it's
a myth that a potato is no longer fresh once it sprouts and should
be thrown out. Sprouting is a natural process in the life of a
potato. Indeed, it's how potatoes reproduce. Sprouting has no
undesirable effects unless the sprouts have grown so long that the
potato is deprived of nutrients and begins to soften, shrivel and
lose its flavour. If the potato is still firm, you can snap off the
sprouts before you cook. "Good healthy potatoes will sprout," says
Jones. "In fact, I'd be more concerned if a potato didn't
sprout" - this would suggest the potatoes had been held for a
long time in cold storage or sprayed with sprout suppressant. Some
supermarkets typically refrigerate potatoes to stop them from
sprouting. A side effect of refrigeration is that it turns starch
into sugar, making fried potatoes brown quickly.

It's essential to store potatoes in complete darkness. Exposure
to light will give potatoes a green tinge, which is a sign that
they will taste bitter and unpleasant. In large doses, such
potatoes can cause you to feel ill. Spuds are best stored in thick
brown paper bags in a dry, dark, cool cupboard. Don't keep them in
the fridge or in foam boxes or plastic, because this causes them to
sweat and rot. Soil offers protection from deterioration and
greening, so wash it off just before cooking.

Potatoes are incredibly versatile and not limited to savoury
cooking. My mother often made desserts out of potatoes; a
particular favourite of mine was Kartoffelpuffer, a pancake made
from grated potatoes, onions, eggs and flour. It was fried in a
generous amount of butter, much like a rösti, and served with
cinnamon, brown sugar and apple sauce. Not French, of course, but
completely delicious.