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This is a great route with a hard start and good protection. Go through the damn and right down to the open area. It is on the North Corner of the rock which is the next rock over from Better than Pool & Pie.

The route starts right on the corner which is very steep on some smaller holds to the first bolt. It stays hard until somewhere between the second and third bolt where it eases off. The rest of the rout is fun easier climbing on bigger holds. There are 4 bolts in all. The anchor is solid.This and the other routes on the back of the damn are a great way to finish off a day.

I did this route yesterday and only counted three bolts on the ~100 foot climb with the third bolt being less than half-way up the route. A fall near the top would probably result in a meeting with The Reaper. However, climbing eases from 5.8 to 5.6 at the third bolt. There are a couple of horns that could be slung with narrow slings for marginal pro, and one might be able to place some pro with long slings to prevent rope drag in the large crack out left.
Jul 22, 2007

I had a blast on this route! A hard start - I fell a couple times before the first bolt but there was plenty of mud below making for a soft fall, which I think is usually the case at the bottom of this route. Used an extra shirt to clean my shoes and then chalked them up. Half way up, awesome jugs and a low angle all the way to the top - probably 5.3 or 5.4 climbing on a fun easy face! I imagine the last half of this climb to be like Leaning Tower in the Needles! I suppose I'll find out soon!
Apr 22, 2009