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Booked the car in for a larger local garage to have a look. One thing I noticed this morning is that it started up in very cold weather at around 1000rpm. This is quite strange as it would typically (when working correctly) start at around 1500rpm to warm up, then drop down to around 750rpm. Could it be that the car simply doesn't know what its engine temp is? Could this actually cause rough idle and cutting out? If so, what would cause this? Is there some kind of generic engine temp sensor or is there more to it than that? Would be great if somebody could fill me in before I take the car in. Thanks very much for everyone's help so far.

So what does this mean? Can an air con relay cause idle/stalling issues? With it being a Finesse model, it doesn't actually have air con so maybe the ECU is reading it as something else? Thanks for your reply.

Just had the same problem again. Scanned the car and it came up with the following fault codes: P0693 - Powertrain P0646 - A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit Low If A/C stands for Air Con then I'm completely puzzled as the car doesn't have air con. Do these fault codes point to an electrical issue rather than a vacuum leak or fuel delivery problem? Thanks

Well, the car went over a year without having any idle/revving issues but it's back to its old self. Had to get Green Flag out this morning as it would idle at about 1500rpm for a few seconds, only to then sputter out. Typically, when they arrived, the car started up and idled at about 750 rpm and drove around a mile absolutely perfectly. I know this won't be the last of it. Here are a couple of theories: 1. I live up north at and the temperature dropped significantly last night. It was very foggy/moist this morning. Is there a chance that there was condensation on the spark plugs and this disappeared as the day got slightly warmer? I should point out that the car has been idling high intermittently even in warm weather after a long drive. 2. The last time the car started to behave itself was after a prolonged period of having the battery unplugged. As far as I'm aware, this resets some of the computer's settings and forces the car to 'relearn' the correct idle speed. Is this a good idea or could it cause more problems? I've also heard that removing the KAM fuse for a short period then reinstalling it could have the same effect. Does this sound about right? Thanks in advance for any advice you may be able to offer.

I've managed to get by without the use of the cigarette lighter socket in my mk6 Fiesta for a while now, but need it to plug in a sat nav for a long journey. It's an ex police pool car, so the lighter socket has been disconnected and it appears that the wiring has been moved near the blowers to accommodate a computer of some sort. I still have the lighter socket; is it just a case of connecting the red and black wires to the pins on the underside of the socket? I don''t mind it dangling out of the dash at all - just need it to work! Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hi all, back again with more problems with my ever reliable Fiesta. I was driving to work this morning when all of a sudden the car started stuttering and idling funny, then the EML light flashed on and off over again. It then seemed to lose most of its power and struggled to reach 30mph, unless I really revved it. I managed to get it to work and back and scanned it when I got home. I got the following reading: P0301 - Powertrain Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected I'm optimistically hoping it's just the spark plugs/coils that need replacing - does this sound like a possibility? It's probably worth mentioning that we had horrendous rain overnight and this morning so I guess some water may have leaked in somewhere. It did run a lot better after it'd been sat in the car park drying out all day. Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer.

No, I've not touched the TPS at all for fear of causing further problems. A few people seem to have had trouble with the multi plug linked to the sensor - does this sound plausible, given that it's giving inaccurate readings? Does this appear to be the correct component? http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_fiesta_throttle_position_sensor_jumper__f_1150138_c_341.htm Sorry if I'm asking a lot of stupid questions and thanks for your help so far.

Thanks for that. You're right - the pedal is mechanically attached to the throttle body. However, it appears there is a throttle position sensor attached to the throttle body itself. I don't really want to replace it as apparently it can be a tricky process - something to do with the bolts dropping into the throttle body and causing all sorts of problems when removing the TPS. By the way, I have no knowledge or experience when it comes to cars so you could well be right. I'm just going by what the Haynes Manual says.

I had a similar problem after disconnecting the battery. What type of radio is installed? If it's the standard RDS 4500 that comes with the car it can be quite a simple process. Press 2 and 6 at the same time for a few seconds and it should display a code - make a note of it. If you have an Android phone, download the Ford Radio Codes app - I think it'll cost you about £2.00. You should then be able to put in the code the radio generated earlier and it'll give you a code to key in to the radio to unlock it. Hope that helps.

Hello all, hope you're well. I've started having throttle issues with my 2002 1.3 Mk6 again. Occasionally, the revs will stick when changing gear and hesitate by a couple of seconds before dropping. It really does make the car difficult to drive safely. Since having a new Idle Control Valve installed, the car idles perfectly. I bought one of those cheap car scanners and it came up with a fault code for the Throttle Position Sensor. Is it really necessary to replace the sensor, or can it be reset/re-calibrated in some way? I've seen online that you can do this with other car brands by going through a process of pressing the pedal slowly and releasing it over and over again with the ignition 'half on'. Is this the case with Fords too? I'm reluctant to do it in case it throws the whole system off! Disconnecting the battery for an hour or so seemed to temporarily cure the problem but it was back within a few days. Thanks in advance.

Just thought I'd update this thread. I've had the Idle Speed Valve replaced and it appears to have fixed the problem! No more crazy revving or sticking throttle. Hope I'm not tempting fate by posting this! The only thing I'm worried about is if the fact that the battery was disconnected may be the thing that's solved the problem - i.e. sensors may have been reset as a result of this. Oh well, fingers crossed the problem is gone for good.

Yep - sounds like mine. My local mechanic is in the process of sourcing a replacement throttle body so hopefully that'll sort it. Did you go to a specialist Ford place to get your ECU reprogrammed or just do it yourself?