Hi everyone! First time post to AVS. I just wanted to share my experience with Monster 3D Maxx glasses on this set and the wonderful customer service I've had with Monster.

These glasses are new on the market and so there's no much out on the net yet. I received these glasses about a week ago and when I plugged them in the first thing I noticed was red blacks. I knew this was an issue with dlp link and also that there were a couple different brands of glasses that supposedly fully blocked the dlp link and, in turn, the red blacks. Since theses glasses were too new to have any info on the net about this issue with our sets, I took a leap of faith and purchased these with the idea that since they were "top of the line" and "universal" that surely they would block the dlp link. Well, they didn't, so I thought at first.

I called Monster and spoke to a nice young lady and when I explained the issue I was having, and when she couldn't answer my question, she started live chatting with another tech support guy in San Francisco (she was in Utah) and she had him call me. She called it "escalating" He did and when he wasn't able to help, he immediately contacted the actual engineer who designed the glasses. A couple of days past and when I got a call back he suggested using the transmitter to go into the settings adjustment and adjusting the delay. Theory was that the color wheel was causing some delay and therefor not blocking the dlp link. My first thought was that my set doesn't use a color wheel so this guy doesn't know what he's talking about and this would not work; having already resigned to the fact that I was going to have to return these glasses. Well, I ADJUSTED THE DELAY AND BAM! NO MORE RED BLACKS! Also discovered that I was able to get a better 3D image by also adjusting the lens shutter time. These glasses are extremely configurable and IMO worth the extra money that I spent. They truly are universal.

Just wanted to say how happy I am with these glasses now that this issue is fixed and to applaud Monster's support of a fine product in an age of dwindling customer service and to possibly help someone else out who's experiencing the same problem.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I have been looking for 6 months, off and on, for this information. I guess I never put the correct keywords in the search eng.

I'm pretty sure I know what i need to do to get 3D to my HL67A750, my question is about the HDMI switch.

I have an HD blur ray player, but I also would like to see what DirectTv's 3D programming looks like, plus I might get a gaming system that does 3D. I plan to purchase the 3D adapter from Tru3d.com. I know I will need a switch to accomplish my 3D plan, however Tru3D.com's HDMI switch is 98.00 + S&H. I see other HDMI switches online for 20.00 or 30.00. Does anyone know about any of the other switches or should I just purchase the one listed at Tru3D?

Also, is there a preference between the Xpand x102 and optoma BG-zd101 glasses, which are online a lot cheaper then what Tru3D.com carry them?

Thanks again. I hope this thread is not dead. I look forward to your response.

Per advice from this forum, I got the Mitisibushi 3Ds-100 emitter only from 3dglassesunlimited.com, along with the ssg2100Blick glasses, and am having some issues getting my HL67A750 Samsung to recognize the 3d signal. I set the HDMI3/DVI (renamed to PC) to 3D Mode 1, and got the infamous red tint, but when I attempted to play TRANSFORMERS 3D, all I got was the standard "3D display not recognized" menu screen.

I'm also not sure if the PS3 Slim is properly set to display 3D. It's at the most current update, but I didn't see the 3D options in the video settings menu.

Do I need any other hardware besides the emitter? I saw the red light flashing on it, so it must be working. Also, is there an RGB setting that needs to be specified on either the TV or PS3 end? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

The emitter is the little PC mouse shaped device with a red light on top that connects to a 3-pin jack in the back of the TV and it controlls the glasses - it has nothing to do with getting a 3D signal to the TVs from your PS3. If all you have is the emitter and glasses, then you do not have enough.

The 3DC-1000 adapter is a signal converter and has an HDMI input and output that connects between your PS3 and the TV. This is what you need to do 3D from the PS3. You can get the adatper in the 3DC-1000 Kit (adapter, remote control, emitter, 2 pair of glasses etc.) and you need to do so sort of special programming on the adatper to work with your Samsung. You can get the adapter as a 3DA-1 which is just the adapter and remote - no emitter or glasses - here again special programming for the Samsung. Or you can get the adapter in the 3DC-100S kit which does not require the special programming.

Yes, and then you'll have two pairs of glasses and an emitter that are all but worthless on your set. Try to find the adapter without all the extras if you can. The DLP link flash on this set tints the blacks, so IR glasses aren't the best option because they leave in the tint. With the Samsung LED TV your best bet is to use DLP Link glasses or your blacks will look reddish. With DLP Link glasses your blacks will look fully black.

Yes, and then you'll have two pairs of glasses and an emitter that are all but worthless on your set. Try to find the adapter without all the extras if you can. The DLP link flash on this set tints the blacks, so IR glasses aren't the best option because they leave in the tint. With the Samsung LED TV your best bet is to use DLP Link glasses or your blacks will look reddish. With DLP Link glasses your blacks will look fully black.

It is a bit annoying but it's not that bad on most 3D viewing you don't notice it.

It is a bit annoying but it's not that bad on most 3D viewing you don't notice it.

You might no notice it, but I do and it bothers me. I think the effect is worse on some sets, because mine goes hot red in 3D mode and the only way to get it looking normal is with DLP link glasses. It is really dark scenes when it is noticeable, so playing games like COD Black OPS in 3D makes it stick out big time.

I set the hdmi cable from my ps3 to my VSX-1120K, and from the VSX-1120K to the HDMI3 input to the DLP. I renamed the input to PC. I can play the movie and it looks like it is 3d, but the glasses don't do anything when I power them on. They flicker 3 times indicating they are powered on but nothing else happens. I then see I might need to set the DLP into 3D Mode 1 or Mode 2, but on my DLP, this option is disabled. Does anyone know what the problem is? I also have a Panasonic DMP-BT100 but I don't have any 3D Blu-rays to test it out on yet. Hoping to validate 3D using my PS3 with what seems to be a fairly straightforward test.

Any advice appreciated. BTW, I can't tell you how much I loathe Samsung and will never willingly purchase anything they make ever again.

I don't need an emitter, do I? I saw some threads where people had used them with their DLP Link glasses, but I don't think they need the emitter. The Samsung DLPset is supposed to barf this signal out automatically.

And both of those are set as is, and the 3D mode on the Samsung is still grey. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong as several users on this forum (as well as the in the main a750 thread) claim to to have enabled the 3D mode with nothing else but the TV and the Panny models 100 to 350, and yet none of them gave specific answers / solutions when the grey-ed out modes were present on the A750.

Sorry, I'm just frustrated with the set up and am on the brink of returning the 210 and the 3d equipment.

And both of those are set as is, and the 3D mode on the Samsung is still grey. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong as several users on this forum (as well as the in the main a750 thread) claim to to have enabled the 3D mode with nothing else but the TV and the Panny models 100 to 350, and yet none of them gave specific answers / solutions when the grey-ed out modes were present on the A750.

Sorry, I'm just frustrated with the set up and am on the brink of returning the 210 and the 3d equipment.

What happens when you put in a 3D movie does the Panasonic allow you to play it in the 3D checkerboard mode?? Also I have the Panasonic 300 and it would not transmit a 3D signal with a HDMI 1.3 cable I needed a 1.3a cable.

What happens when you put in a 3D movie does the Panasonic allow you to play it in the 3D checkerboard mode??

>> It plays the video/audio ok (there were intermittent sound drop outs on the audio, but the 3D image is definitely out of alignment (the test pattern on the Panny is as well) -- there's some pretty severe ghosting is going on. (Have TRON, TRANSFORMERS, and HUGO all tested)

Also I have the Panasonic 300 and it would not transmit a 3D signal with a HDMI 1.3 cable I needed a 1.3a cable.

>> Going out from the Panny 210 is a Mediabridge Ultra cord, HDMI 1.3b rated. Not sure if there's a difference between "a" and "b" .

1.3a or above is good. Have you tried hooking the 210 directly to the Samsung to eliminate that your receiver is the problem? I have the Pioneer 820 receiver and I don't have any problems, so I don't think the Pioneer is the problem but it's worth a shot.

Have you tried hooking the 210 directly to the Samsung to eliminate that your receiver is the problem? I have the Pioneer 820 receiver and I don't have any problems, so I don't think the Pioneer is the problem but it's worth a shot.

>> I thought the same thing when I went home from work, and what do you know?... It worked! The second cord must not have been "a". Thanks for the help!

You can use either a 1.3a, 1.3b or a hdmi 1.4 cable. You also need to check the setting of the Pioneer to make sure is not being altered. This is the path I am using - Panasonic Blu-ray player, Pioneer receiver, Mits 3D converter, Samsung TV. The Panasonic Blu-ray player senses that it is hooked up to a 3D Tv because of the Mits 3D converter, so it will not allow me to output checkerboard but only a standard 3D signal.which the Mits 3D converter changes to checkerboard.

Ok, the second 1.3a HDMI cord showed up, and the A750 still refuses to see the 3D mode. THe only way I can enable it is to directly hook up the 310 to the tv (both cords verified to work with a direct port from player to tv). So maybe the problem is in the receiver? The 310 outputs checkerboard, so that's not a prob, but when passing through the receiver, it seems to forget that.

Anynet / Viera are both turned on for the A750 and 310. HDMI control is set to "on" in the receiver.

After reading much of this and other threads, I need some clarity as I am confused:
What is the best setup for getting the HL61A750 to 3d with best picture and performance? Links or part numbers appreciated.
Thanks!

"best" is subjective.

You want the 3DA-1 if you can find one. That will take just about any valid 3D format and convert it to checkerboard, which is the only format supported by your set. This converts cable tv 3d, playstation, or any media player (ex: WD Live TV) that can output s-b-s or t/b 3D. This device is amazing, but you may have to hack your TV with a Mitts ID in order for the 3DA-1 to work. There are whole threads on this elsewhere. I have heard that there is a Mitts 3D adapter, the 3DC-100s, that is made for Samsung sets, but I've never seen them for sale.

Or you can get any Bly-ray player that supports checkerboard output, but you are now limited to only watching Blu-ray movies. Nothing else (except DLP Link 3d glasses) required.

After reading much of this and other threads, I need some clarity as I am confused:
What is the best setup for getting the HL61A750 to 3d with best picture and performance? Links or part numbers appreciated.
Thanks!

Alternatively, you could just set up an HTPC with either NVIDIA or AMD video card that supports 3D, buy Powerdvd software that will look after 3D blu-rays and other 3d format files. Of course, you cannot use this setup for cable/satellite etc. Depending on your sources you want to watch, this may be an alternative which doesn't need the mitsubishi adapter. All you need is DLP link glasses.

I have the same setup except that I use a Sony 3-D pass through receiver. I just got my UltraClear HD DLP Link glasses yesterday and they work great. Prometheus 3D Bluray works just as you describe. I do not think getting an IR or RF 3D emitter will help at all unless you also buy a different set of 3D glasses which accept the IR or RF inputs. I doubt the UltraClear DLP glasses work with emitters. I think you have to buy a different Ultraclear model with their IR emitter. If you do go that route, let us know the results.