My Favorite Lesser-Known Churches in Venice

Annie Atwell (AnnieNC)

Most people who go to Venice know the "must-see" churches and hopefully
find time to visit the Basilica San Marco, the Frari, Santa Maria della Salute,
San Giorgio Maggiore, and Santa Maria dei Miracoli. I love all of these, but
there are several wonderful and obscure churches that are also well worth
a visit while you are in Venice.

I love to wander the streets of Venice all day and go in every open church
I find. I'm keeping a "life-time" Venice church list - I'm up to 47 so far
(there are over 100). Finding churches open is often just a matter of luck
(either no opening hours are posted, they're closed for renovation, or they
aren't open when they are "supposed" to be). It's like a treasure hunt - I'm
always excited when I find a new one open! Here are some of my favorites.

San Giovanni in Bragora

This church is in Castello, not that far away from Piazza San Marco, but
you will feel miles away when you get to this quiet campo. This was Vivaldi's
childhood church (he was baptized here). The main attraction at this church
is the painting over the altar; Cima da Conegliano's Baptism of Christ. It's
an incredible painting with amazing colors and a beautiful blue sky filled
with angels. I love the Christ in this painting - he looks like an American
hippie circa 1972 (think Jesus Christ Superstar!). There's another Cima painting
in the Accademia with the exact same Jesus in it. This church is open from
9-11 and 3:30-7:00, Monday - Saturday.

Santa Maria Mater Domini

This church is in a wonderful neighborhood between San Polo and Santa Croce
with ancient Gothic palazzi in the campo surrounding the church. The church
itself is very small and homey; there are only about six paintings inside,
but each of them is exquisite - wonderful colors! There are many paintings
in Venetian churches that are dark and hard to see (too much varnish and age,
and in need of restoration or cleaning), but these paintings are vivid and
beautiful. One of them is a Tintoretto. It's hard to find this church open
(and there are no opening hours posted), but I have found it open several
times around 10 AM Monday-Friday.

San Zan Degola

Another small ancient neighborhood church. This one is in Santa Croce north
of Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio. There are some remnants of 10th century frescoes
on the walls - it is rare for frescoes to have survived this long in Venice
because of the damp, so seeing these is very cool. I also found this one open
about 10 in the morning on a weekday.

San Giacomo dell'Orio

I love the way this rambling church looks from the outside; strange ancient
rounded sections all merged together. It's in my favorite Campo in Venice.
I love to sit outside at the Al Prosecco wine bar and look at this church.
It's beautiful and interesting inside as well. It has a gorgeous carved wooden
ceiling. Look for the huge green marble column that was part of the loot that
the Venetians brought back from Constantinople. There are also fossils embedded
in the floors; it's fun to walk around and look for them. Nice paintings and
sculpture in this one; Lorenzo Lotto's Virgin and Child with Saints is over
the main altar. This church is included on the Chorus Pass tour, which I highly
recommend for church and/or art lovers (see below).

San Salvador

This church is not really obscure and is very easy to find (right next
to Campo San Bartholomew on the main path between San Marco and Rialto). It
is a large ornate church packed with paintings and sculpture. On my most recent
trip, I went in this church every day to see Titian's Annunciation, my favorite
Titian in Venice. It's a beautiful and amazing painting, on the edge of being
Impressionistic, though it was painted several centuries before Impressionism
even existed. Take some 20-euro-cent coins because you have to feed the light
box to see this painting; admission to the church itself is free and it always
seems to be open.

San Francesco della Vigna

It's a hike to this church but well worth the walk. It's in the far reaches
of Castello and has a beautiful Palladio facade. There are some wonderful
paintings including a Bellini in a side chapel and a gorgeous Negroponte Madonna
surrounded by flowers. You need coins to light up the Bellini. The first time
I visited, I didn't have any change and was hanging out in the dark hoping
someone else would come and feed the light box. One of the Franciscan Friars
walked in, looked at me, said "Bellini" and lit the painting up for me! Just
one of the many "kindness of strangers" experiences that make me love Venice
so much. There are also some beautiful cloisters and courtyards on the interior
of the building complex. Free admission; open from 3-7 in the afternoons.

Sant' Appollonia

This is not a church but a former convent. One of my favorite spots in
Venice - it is so close to the crowds in Piazza San Marco (right behind the
Basilica and Palazzo Ducale) yet every time I go, there's no one else there.
It's a beautiful ancient 12th century cloister, very romantic and serene.
On the side is the entrance to the Museum of Sacred Art which has a nice collection
of paintings and religious objects removed from other churches, including
the Basilica. The museum is open from 10:30-12:30 Monday - Saturday, and admission
is free.

The Chorus Pass

The Chorus Pass costs 8 euro and provides admission to 15 churches including
the Frari, Maria dei Miracoli, and Madonna dell'Orto. It's a good bargain
because individual admission to these churches is about 2 or 3 euro a piece.
Another advantage is that all the Chorus Pass churches have posted and consistent
opening hours so you will always be able find them open, unlike many others.
Plus it's a fun way to see the whole city as you walk from church to church.

Other Churches

Churches that I hope to find open someday (more reasons to keep going to
Venice!): San Marziale, Angelo Raffaele, San Niccolo dei Mendicoli, San Marcuola,
San Trovaso, Santa Maria della Pieta, San Lorenzo.