Utterly clean and calculated drapings, Lapels made by the match of surrealism and ironically realistic moods at the same time; according the Ackerman´s statement, his women saw the light and is absolutely ready to make the leap to streets. The colour palette is just sublime, from the non stop of head to toe black looks to dark but saturated colours as green and blue. This collection is the perfect translation from quick sketching to incredibly executed clothes. Haider Ackermann Fall Winter 2011 2012 takes me just to one direction: pure and absolute inspiration, and yes, the Ackerman´s girl smells like Miss Dior Cherie.

12.4.11

Burberry fall 2011 2012 is one of those collections absolutely ready to make the leap to the streets being so cool on runway at the same time. It´s nothing new, Christopher Bailey, designer from the mythic tartan house, is so incisive on those wonderful chic and brit vibes, with no stylist tricks he turns basics and flat trenches into magic and garde pieces that make the most chic girls be clamoring for: For its structure like made by such fine brush strokes, for its magnetism and for being absolutely realistic. I must confess, since 2007 when the then fabulous Agyness Deyn, (then and now, sorry) landed the fall campaign, with that platinum bob and that "ah?" Face she made fame with, this house inspires me a lot, and every time I see a new presentation I reaffirm myself this is the point zero in industry, the Zen state from fashion. Jourdan Dunn (who recently became a hot mommy) opened and pave the way for the dozens of skeletons with quickstep down the runway (like I’m sure they do in Oxford St) my mind was on Sergeant Pepper and the vibrant monochromatic suits those four legends wore on cover. Minimalism receives a touch of shapes little more elaborated on belts, purses, closures and lapels; Maxi tartans, fabrics that at first sight seems to be hyper-technological, and cow spots wrapped around the catwalk in one of the most beautiful trench that Cruella would bleach her black half to attain the look.Christopher took us to sixties, to his statement with such a simple detail and ingenuous reference: Cerulean head to toe.If it was on me, the whole collection would be cerulean fellas.To cap this mini review off, I´d like to say goodbye to Yves Klein: See you in a couple of seasons! It´s not you, it´s me.Tonio.Una de las colecciones más que listas para dar el salto a las calles y quedarse tan ancha es la de otoño 2011.2012 de Burberry ; No es una novedad que Christopher Bailey, diseñador de la casa, sea tan incisivo en ese feeling chic, y tan british que la mítica casa de el tartán eterno representa; sin artificio, y sin trucos de estilismo convierte un simple trench en una prenda que emociona: Ya se por su estructura de pinceladas calculadas dibujando una silueta poderosa, o su magnetismo garde y aterrizado; Debo confesar que desde el 2007 con su campaña con la antes fabulosa Agyness Deyn (y fabulosa hoy, ¿qué no?) esta firma me inspira un montón y cada vez que veo una nueva presentación reafirmo que Burberry es un punto de partida y un estado zen dentro de la industria.