JiI buddy it is
+2
you can be off by .5
so that would be as much as 2.5 or as little as 1.5
it is important to get both sides the same tho-
If you were 2.5 on one side and 1.5 on the other you would be "in spec"
BUT
It would be poor handling

Thanks Tim. That means the spindles are leaning back about 2*, correct?

Yes, they should be leaning back. You want more caster if you run at higher speeds, ie: over 100 mph. But, more caster makes the car harder to steer at lower speeds so it's a bit of a trade off. This is why VW was so conservative with it's alignement specs.. lower speeds and easy steering.

I only used the toe spec when i set up my car (standard beetle). The camber spec calls for positive camber, not really ideal for a performance car if you like to corner hard. I used about 1 degree negative camber (tires leaning in at the top) and about 3 degrees of caster. My car is raked, so i could really use more caster shims.

That is a LOADED question! My front end is made of superbeetle spindles with the lower tracking arms in place but I have a second set flipped and mounted on top of the spindles. They will be connected to hairpins and custom mounts. I just need to pull the top back and the bottom forward a hair. All fully adjustable.
Jeff

More caster than 2 degrees will make it more stable and self-centering. About 6 degrees is common on straight axle (like using an old Ford I-beam axle for example).

I would put a bit more in from stock, as it is likely you will offset some of that with rake due to larger tires in rear, and/or more drop in front. You want the end result to have at least 2 degrees, I would recommend 4-6 if you can get it. Skinny front tires will be easier to steer than wider tires.

good points '38
JII you would be wise to listen.
this guy speaks from experience

Yeah, I have 700s on the front (29.5" diameter) and I designed the suspension in AutoCAD and have a nice amount of flexibility in the caster. I can adjust the top arm to come back and the lower arm will come forward. I did some preliminary math and am able to put in about 8* before I need to start retweaking suspension mounts. I could incorporate anti-dive but it might be overkill for a small and light car. Nearly zero bumpsteer, low scrub radius and not a lot of camber change but I only designed in a max of 4" of jounce and 3" of droop. Zero body rake. I designed it so all the hairpins are perfectly level.
Jeff