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carestx I wish I were a little closer to you. I am about 2.5 hrs away You keep asking for a consulting company (group) but what you really need is an individual person that actually knows what he is doing.

"And remember my sentimental friend......that a heart is not judged by how much you love, but by how much you are loved by others" - Wizard of Oz.

Well anyway if you want a full report/load calc/design recommendations with pictures I can do that for you. I will post the pics here and then everyone can offer their input. Being far away I have no desire to contract with you to correct the problems so my evaluation would not be self serving.

Does the company that installed the system employ a state license holder and did he pull a city permit that passed a final inspection?

"And remember my sentimental friend......that a heart is not judged by how much you love, but by how much you are loved by others" - Wizard of Oz.

Great thanks.I'm thinking the duct system or there stages and coresponding air flows are the problem.
It would be helpful to know if the air flow ,increases ,as it goes from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd stage.

You may want to ask them,how, if they designed the duct system properly for 5 tons,is now capable of handling 7 tons?

Addtional Data / Pictures Coming

Here is some of the data ask for:
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Both labled AMANA
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5 ton outdoor unit** Model # RSG60C2A**** uses* 410A refrig.*** 16 seer
Indoor unit** Model # CF60FCA
Furance** 95* IIQ* Air Command Furance* GUVA / GCVA*** only wording I could find.
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2 PVC vents, one high on furance, one low (this looks like one*would be*a fresh air intake?)
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2 ton outdoor unit** Model # RCE24A2A** Labled AMANA** old refrig.** 14 seer
Indoor* "NOT labled"* Model # ARUF024-00A-1A*** Has energy guide showing "most effecient"
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Returns and Supplies
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Zone #1* (Master Bed/Bath, Office, Guest Bath)
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Supply Total = Five (5) 8x12*, One (1) 6x10
Return Total = Two (2) 10x25* (baseboard/wall)
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Zone #2 (2nd floor)
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Supply = Three (3) 8x12* Three (3) 6x10*
Return = Two (2) 20x25* One (1) 10x25* (all baseboard/wall)
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Zone # 3* (Main home)
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Supply = Eight (8) 8x12*
Return Three (3) 10x25* (two baseboard, one celing)* Three (3) 16x16 (all baseboard/wall)
*
*
I couldn't get to much of the duct work but I gave it a try, all duct appears to be R6.0 Silver Jacket duct:
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Return @ units = Two (2) 16"* and Two (2)* 12"
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They feed the two ton unit from the collector box with One (1) 16"
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Supply = this is a mess, I saw what looks like One(1) or Two(2)* 16" or larger duct and what looks like maybe*One (1) 12" coming off the units.* One of the 16" or 12" comes off the 2-ton and feeds back into the colletor box?** This is were I can see the dampers installed
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From there, they run all over the the attic and feed into Fiber Boxes/ Triangles that then branch off into smaller duct, (6" to8" mix) that feed the indivual vents.
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Misc:* Both units have High Efficeny (Goodman) UV and Electric Filters* / 5 ton has AprilAir Humidifier on supply side of*it
*

carestx - I think I have figured out at least one of your concerns regarding humidity. You report that when the system runs the humidity goes up, not down. I think you mean to say the "relative" humidity goes up.

Humidity is the amount of water in the air. Relative humidity is the % of water in the air relative to how much it is capable of holding.

So by lowering the temp it changes the ratio and % of water in the air at that temp.

Warm air can hold more moisture than cold air. Think of the heat in your house at 78°F as a big gulp cup. Then think of the heat in your house at 68°F as a coffee cup. Fill the coffee cup with water which represents the moisture in your air. The coffee cup is 100% full or in other words you have 100% realtive humidity. Then pour the water from the coffee cup into the big gulp cup. You have the same amount of water but now the cup is only 20% full or 20% relative humidity. So in this way a warmer house can show a lower percentage. Warming the air is like having a bigger cup because warm air can hold more moisture than cold air.

All this still doesn't forgive the fact that you are uncomfortable. What you need is a removal of moisture without a lowering of temperature. When your humidistats call for reducing moisture the blower in the furnace should slow down and make the coil sweat more. If this isn't happening then we should probably start there to figure out why not.

Looking at the pictures I am very concerned about what happens in worst case scenerio when only one zone is calling. Where is the extra air bypassed? I would like to see a pressure reading in the supply plenum with the smallest zone calling for cooling. Those VS motors can only stand .5 max static pressure and you sure don't want to be replacing those babies every year.

Another concern is accessability. Can a man stand in front of those double stacked monstors and reach the upper unit to effectively work on it? When there is that much head room it works out much better to stand the furnace(s) upright.

"And remember my sentimental friend......that a heart is not judged by how much you love, but by how much you are loved by others" - Wizard of Oz.

Understand the concept of Reletive Humidity, but don't understand why this system can't get it under control. Even when the RH outside the home is in the 20% range, inside my house the RH is still in the 60%. A good example would be to look @ the AirAdvice readings for yesterday . We ended up shutting the system down around noon and opening the windows and the RH inside the home dropped to 40% in less then 30 mins. even though the temp. remaind consistent. In the past as soon as we close up the home and turn the system back on, the RH builds and surpasses the outside RH very quickly and again the inside temp.remains close to the outside air maybe 3-5 degree difference. Don't see that being a large enough differnce to present as a 50% higher RH?