Sunday, 31 May 2015

The less you physically
touch the paint surface the less likely you are to cause scratches. Most
surface scratches are caused by improper washing or drying, or by using
unsuitable media. Avoiding paint scratches (as
much as is possible) will lessen the need to use an abrasive polish along with
the subsequent loss of clear coat

Scratches in the clear coat or its
sub-surface, that is to say any form of damage that is in the top layer of the
paint surface, which includes; marring, swirl marks, scratches, stone chips,
water spots and acid etching. The most common form of sub-surface damage is
caused by road thrown stone chips, particularly on the front ends of cars. Surface scratches are invariably caused by grit being trapped between the paint
surface and the applicator and being moved across the surface under pressure

Most scratches on a paint
surface are V or U shaped, being caused by a small sharp object (fine sand or
grit) and a slightly blunt object (belt buckle, button or zip) so an abrasive
polish and pad are more readily able to polish the sides and smooth the points
where the top of the scratch meets the surrounding paint's uppermost surface
(paint levelling).

What
makes a scratch visible is that it makes the paint surface two-dimensional and
the light reflects from the microscopic peaks and valleys differently from the
rest of the paint surface. When you abrade an area with a machine and foam pad
these abrasions form a uniform pattern (the machine /foam pad applies an even
and consistent pressure) and light reflects from its surface evenly without any
two-dimensional reflectance giving the impression that it’s been ‘removed’

The perfect, mirror-like
reflection of light from a surface, in which light from a single incoming
direction is reflected into a single outgoing direction the best example of spatial reflection is seen when
reflected from a flat level surface.

If the surface is perfectly
flat, light will be reflected to produce a mirror image of the surface. But if
there you have matte paint or are imperfections such as swirls, surface
contaminants, orange peel, or oxidation (dull, opaque or unlevelled paint)
light is refracted and the reflected light becomes distorted, diffuse reflection, which mutes the
shine.

Technically we have different types
of scratches because of the different ways they are introduced into the paint.

·Surface marring –could be in either in the paint surface or wax /sealant, theshallow surface marks often caused by
the incorrect use of a micro fibre towel, improper washing methodologies or the scratch pattern caused by a dual action polisher. Surface
marring is actually made up of tiny scratches, which can easily be remedied by
using a very light abrasive one-step polish

·Halo-scratches - (swirl marks or
spider webs) which, when the light reflects off the raised edges of the
scratches, appear to be circular but in reality they are made up of numerous
straight line random scratches which are caused by washing, drying and everyday
wear and tear. Some are surface marring, whereas others can be deep into the
clear coat.

·Holograms - (also called
buffer marks or buffer trails) which again are scratches but these scratches
are micro-fine patterned scratches which are caused by a high speed polisher
and an operator who doesn't know how to properly finish down their work. They
take on a 3D effect and if the car is moving or you move around the car they
seem to "flow" through the paint.

·Pig-tailing - caused by dried
compound residue lodged in the fibres of a wool pad

·Etching - is a type of paint defect that can vary in depth and frequency, but
creates a unique pattern dependant on how it is created. Etching is caused by
chemical reaction (Acid Rail, IFO, Bird excrement, bombs, and the residual
minerals found in water) on that paint’s surface that dissolves the surface,
creating depressions.

·Deep Scratches- a surface scratch that will `catch' your fingernail is
approximately 0.04 Mil (1.0 µ) deep will usually require wet sanding

·Haze - this is usually caused by using a pad / polish combination that
is too abrasive for the paint surface to finish without leaving very fine
scratch marks. Paint exhibits a general lack of gloss, this could also be
caused by harsh detergents, solvents, or hardly perceivable hairline scratches
or even a paint protection or polish that is not properly removed, all of which
leave behind a dull surface that doesn't reflect light.

·Surface scouring –this is usually caused by abraded paint residue not the pad or the
polish used

·Swirl marks - Swirl
marks (buffer trails) ribbon-like abrasions, the things that cause swirl marks
are varied; an unnecessarily aggressive pad or abrasive, excessive speed or
pressure used or too stiff a backing plate are just some of the many reasons
for this type of surface defect. Even scratch-resistant and ceramic clear coats
are susceptible to swirl marks if polished incorrectly.

·Stone chips - and
other minor damage are not only aesthetically displeasing they look unsightly
and once they begin to accumulate, especially on dark coloured car. But worse
still, because the stone chips, scratches and scuffs have penetrated the clear
coat, you car will be prone to rust

Cause and Effect

Too
ensure a near perfect paint surface blemishes need to be removed. However there
are some things to be cognizant of as it is possible to actually make things
worse by using improper methodologies.

Proceed
with this in mind; always choose the least intrusive product, it is preferable
to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an
unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination. Before commencing
polishing do a test panel on the car, once you have achieved the desired
results with your selected polish / pad combination then proceed to polish the
rest of the panels

·Foam pad - using a foam pad that
is too aggressive or is not suitable for
the polish selected

·Polish - select an abrasive
polish to match the scratch you are trying to remove; by using the least abrasive combination of polish /
pads to remove the defect, before moving
up to a more abrasive combination. It makes no sense to use a very aggressive
polish, that will remove most scratches but to the detriment of the clear coats
thickness. Know your product and its capabilities before using it

·Dirty pads - will become
more abrasive, as will pads that are simply sitting in a dirty or dusty
environment. Even microscopic dirt and dust on a pad can lead to swirl marks

·Cross contamination- do not use
the same pad to apply differing products as cross contamination; i.e. a pad
that was used with a polishing compound may have traces left and if the same
pad is use for polishing it will cause scratches. However if you thoroughly
clean pads right after use you shouldn't have any problems with contamination
from different grades of polishes or compounds

·Backing plate - a hard and
inflexible backing plate will affect the performance of a foam pad; by making
it slightly more aggressive (stiffness) and may cause swirl marks. The
inflexible plastic on many backing plates has zero give and therefore will not
adjust to the contoured body panels. The exception would be a plate bonded to a
thick layer of dense cellular foam

·Speed - using too high a speed will
not necessarily get the job done faster as there is a risk of instilling swirl
marks or strikethrough, which will need to be corrected to remove

·Pressure - excessive pressure will make the pad / polish combination more
aggressive, this has the effect of increasing kinetic energy (friction heat)
which may result in a strikethrough, a
friction paint burn or paint delamination from the substrate. Increased surface friction will also cause
swirl marks

·Heat - excessive heat and a combination of excessive pressure (surface resistance) speed
and an aggressive pad / polish combination will rapidly generate surface heat,
this will soften the paint and may cause delamination from the substrate,
surface hazing, strikethrough and greatly increase the chance of swirls

·Pad angle – ideally a pad should
be operated flat to the surface; this provides the correct contact surface area
along with sufficient surface lubrication from the polish oils. By turning a
pad on an angle you reduce the surface are contact, increasing pressure and
reduce the amount of surface lubrication available. Incorrect polish techniques
will lead to swirl marks

·Insufficient product - without the polish
lubrication oils, dry buffing will cause delamination from the substrate,
surface hazing, strikethrough and greatly increase the chance of swirls

Common causes of scratches

•Improper methodology / tools
used when washing or drying a paint surface. This is the most common cause of
surface scratching / marring) and accounts for as much as 75% + of surface
marring

•A large proportion of all
paintwork scratches are caused by automated car washes. Minute particles of
hard materials, such as road dust and sand, become lodged in the rotating
brushes and etch scratches into the paint surface. These “hair-line” scratches
are particularly noticeable in darker paint shades.

•Using an unsuitable
applicator or brush to clean the vehicle or remove snow etc

•Using cheap micro fibre or
terry cloth towels or some wash sponges will scratch the paint as these
materials are hard and unforgiving, inflicting scratches without the need for
grit particles

•Visible damage-if the
scratches show a black, grey or white colour it probably means that it's
compromised the paint system through to the primer. They can usually be
rectified by thoroughly cleaning the affected area, then apply a rust
preventative primer before the application of both a colour and clear coat with
a solvent or a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish. Re-apply a
protective polish and sealant after the repairs have been affected and the
paint has had time to cure.

•Visible abrasions- dragging
an object across the top of the trunk lid often cause this kind of surface
damage, or careless use of the car keys or even fingernails around the door
handles. They can usually be rectified with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner
or an abrasive polish.

•Surface scratch (or marring-) most
probable cause is by automatic car wash or poor cleaning techniques. The
marring looks like thousands of tiny single directional uniform scratches that
cause light to refract instead of reflect, this kind of damage is usually
confined to the clear coat, and can usually be rectified with a pre-wax cleaner
or polish.

Deep Scratches

A surface scratch that will
`catch' your fingernail is approximately 0.04 Mil (1.0 µ) deep will usually
require wet sanding and the clear coat refinishing Removing a scratch requires
removing the layer of paint that contains the defect; you need to level the
paint to the lowest point of the scratch.

Removing more that 0.3 mil (8 µ) of clear coat will cause premature
paint film failure as UV protection percolates to the top of the clear coat. Check
paint film thickness with a Paint Thickness Meter (PTG) before you attempt to
remove clear coat scratches

As you go over a deep scratch, the
abrasives round off the edges of the
high spots of the scratch. The result is a shallower scratch (when no full
correction can be made) rounded edges don’t
reflect light the same way a sharp edge will and is therefore less
noticeable.

Unfortunately a more and
more common form of deep scratch are those inflicted with a sharp object i.e. a
key. It may be necessary to carry out some localized wet sanding to facilitate
full removal of any deep scratches, once again, paint thickness must be
checked, and if the paint is too thin wet sanding should not be considered

Backlighting

Clear
coated paints show minor swirls and scratches more readily than pigmented paint
(single stage) due to an optical effect called backlighting. Light penetrates
the clear coat and is reflected from pigmented paint (colour coat) which in
turn reflects any imperfections in the surface of the clear coat, making them
highly visible.

Asyou drive towards the setting
sun or oncoming headlights on a rainy night, every speck of dirt, smudge or
smear on your windshield is suddenly very obvious. They are much more
noticeable when sunlight or oncoming headlights back-light them.

Removing surface scratches with a
machine-

Removing a scratch requires
removing the layer of paint that contains the defect; you need to level the
paint to the lowest point of the scratch. The dual action of a random orbital
motion will require more applied pressure to work the compound into the scratch
as opposed to the singular action motion of a rotary spinning with less applied
pressure. Due partly to its indirect application of pressure; it removes more clear by putting an
uneven pressure on the abrasives

a)A
dual action polisher’s orbital’s operating action (throw or offset) is not as
efficient at transferring the energy required to create the kinetic friction
required, because t puts an uneven pressure on the abrasives. It spins on a
double axis, resulting in a pretty much "random" motion of a single
point on the pad. This simulates the "random" motion of hand
application of polishes.

The
downside of this is that you cannot abrade the clear coat either to remove
scratches. The PC pretty much just smoothes over the tops of the scratches, not
really sanding away any measurable clear coat. To remove scratches you have to
make multiple applications to see a visible improvement. So for these reasons a
random orbital polisher removes more paint than a rotary circular polisher to
remove the same surface defect

b)With a high-speed rotary polisher - you will be removing a
certain amount of clear coat and actually levelling the surface. This is good
because you truly remove the scratches, not just making them less refractive to
light, as the PC does. The problem is that you only have about 1.5 or 2 mil of
clear coat to work with.

A
rotary polisher requires less pressure and its circular motion is a more
directly applied force is very efficient and will remove more paint for each
polishing step, which is usually 2-3 to remove surface defects. Its rotational
action is able to focus kinetic friction on the high spots the paint more
efficiently.

c) Using a moderate to light polish; and
utilizing a rotary polisher will remove approximately 0.000025 - inches (0.635
Microns) from the paint surface (they are many variables such as
polish/compound and speed / pressure used that may affect the paint removed)
You seriously have to make a judgment call about whether any defect is so
severe that you cannot live with it and therefore it is worth risking clear
coat failure to remove it with the rotary

d)Block or wet sanding (finishing paper and a sanding block) is
the most efficient process for paint scratch / defect removal. A polish or
compound applied by the sanding block with constant pressure applied to
maintain a flat even surface contact. Because of its linear process you abrade
the paint surface until the scratch or defects are removed.

Note

1.It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film
surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive polish / foam combination

2.Wool pads are not recommended for random orbital machines
(Porter Cable 7424, etc) as wool pads nap / fibres works more efficiently with
a centrifugal motion Foam cutting pads tend to be much’ stiffer’ than wool
fibres and thus will transfer the movement of the machine to the paint surface
more efficiently than a comparable wool pad on an orbital polisher

4.Always use the least aggressive product first, and then
evaluates the surface, then only if necessary `step-up' to a more abrasive
product and / or pad.

Levelling paint

When
a detailer uses the term "levelling paint" it really means that they
are going to be abrading the surrounding paint area that that contains the defect
(scratch, swirls, surface marring, etching, pitting, etc.) So they are not
‘removing the imperfection’ just making the surrounding edges of the scratch
flat. It is possible to remove a scratch by using a high-speed rotary and
abrading the clear coat to a lower level then the base of the scratch, which
will remove clear coat, just be aware of how much clear coat you remove, as you
don’t want to compromise the paint systems protection.

Removing more that 0.3 mil
(8µ) of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure as UV
protection percolates to the top of the clear coat, there is UV protection all
the way through the paint, but the majority of it rises to the top with the
thinner solvents and particles.

As a point of reference a sheet of copy paper
is 3.5Mil (89µ) a surface scratch that will `catch' your fingernail is
approximately 0.004 Mil (0.01µ) deep will usually require
wet sanding and refinishing.

Modern
clear coat paints are formulated from polyurethane, applied as a
microscopically thin ‘elastic’ film, 1.5 – 2.0 Mils, too much friction heat
will cause it to expand, driving the scratches deeper into the paint surface.
Always be aware of paint surface temperatures (localized paint (spot) temperature
should be limited to 110.oF.

In accordance with the Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE) study a temperature of 115.oF< will cause the paint to
soften), and thickness, i.e. how much of the surface are you removing (See also
Paint Thickness Gauge)

Light Surface Marring

The
light surface marring that result from wiping down with a towel or the scratch
pattern caused by a dual action polisher
Surface marring is actually made up of tiny scratches, which can easily
be remedied by using a very light abrasive one-step polish (Menzerna FF4500) and a
protective wax and/or polymer sealant.. This way you’ll maintain the original
paint’s integrity for decades, with allowance only for environmental erosion.

Methodology

1.Wash the paint surface

2.Bonded contaminants on the cars paintwork should be removed
using a detailer’s clay bar to leave a smooth surface ready for machine
compound or polish.

3.Throughout all stages of the polishing process the cars trim
adjacent to the area being worked on should be carefully protected using
painters tape to mask it to avoid damage.Protect sunroof seal, headlight covers, lighting rubber seals,
windscreen surround, pant edges, vehicle emblems and model identification
numbers, etc

4.Whenever you’re removing painter’s tape from automotive paint,
always pull back on the tape at an angle as a safety precaution.

5.Start the polishing process with a diagnosis of the paint finish
and then proceed with the least aggressive polish / pad combination on a ‘test
section’ panel, once you have established a suitable polish/pad combination
proceed to polish / refine the paint surface

6.It may be necessary to carry out some localized wet sanding to
facilitate full removal of any deep scratches, once again, paint thickness will
be checked, and if the paint is too thin wet sanding should not be considered.

7.Finally use a polish to remove any surface imperfection and then
a fine polish / pad to burnish the paint surface

8.Carry out a wipe down process to ensure all oils and surface
defects have been removed.

9.Re-wash to remove any polishing dust and / or debris

10.The final step could be to use a glaze, pre-wax cleaner or go
right to protecting your paint with a sealant and/or wax.

I
would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to
detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to
advance their knowledge.

I hope the
above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and
‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand
how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share
this article as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

The Bentley 4½ Litre is a British sports car built by Bentley Motors. Its supercharged variant is also known as the Blower Bentley. Famous for his statement "there's no replacement for displacement", Walter Owen Bentley upped the displacement of the Bentley 3 Litre in 1926 to produce the 4½ Litre. Upon taking control of the company, the "Bentley Boys" went in search of even more power and developed the supercharged model in 1929 at Henry Birkin's racing workshops in Welwyn Garden City. A 4½ Litre Bentley raced at Le Mans in 1927 but crashed. Another claimed victory at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1928 with drivers Woolf Barnato and Bernard Rubin at the wheel.

This is the car author Ian Fleming first chose for James Bond. It is featured in three of the 007 Novels, Casino Royale, Live and Let Die and Moonraker. In the book, Bond drives one of the last blower Bentleys built, a battleship grey Convertible Coupé, with French Marchal headlamps and an Amherst Villiers supercharger. Interestingly, Ian Fleming himself owned a 'blower' from whence the inspiration for Bond's car came. Even more interesting is the fact Fleming bought the car from Amherst Villiers after it was produced for him by Bentley. The car was recently to be seen in the Yorkshire Motor Museum, Batley but since the museum's closure it has passed into a private collection.

The naked
Scientist promises to strip car care chemicals to their bare essentials,
biotech, nanotechnology, chemistry and the chaos theory are also involved. And
this being doctor Jon, you’ll require certain items, a syringe, a microscope,
possibly something designed by NASA

Timeline - five decades plus; but detailing has
never my prime source of income, Chemical Engineering is my chosen profession. I
detailed Concours d’élégance vehicles at week-ends and school holidays. While
at university I had a job at the Connolly™ Leather
Company in Wimbledon (1960-1963 summer jobs while at college)I detailed my first car in 1958 at the age of fourteen
and worked on the preparation of Concours d’élégance vehicles most weekends. I gave
up hands-on detailing in 1995. Since then I have written books and articles for
motoring magazines (often as a ‘ghost writer’), I run a website as well as a
Blog (all detailing orientated) and I'm an active contributor to various
on-line detailing forums as well as Facebook and Wikipedia

Born in
London, England in 1944, I studied at London University (Bartlett College) and
received a BSc Architectural Engineering, then studied at the London School of
Economics and Political Science (MSc) Business Management, after graduation I
joined the RAF and attended Royal Air Force College at Cranwell, Officer Cadet
training graduating as a Flight Lieutenant. I then gained a position in the Oil Gas, Hydrocarbon Exploration sector working for a British Oil and Gas
Exploration Company, a few years later was granted a scholarship, and studied
at Imperial College, London graduating with a Doctorate (PhD) in Chemical
EngineeringMy Engineering career spanned some thirty years culminating as a Projects Director Coatings Division R and D, working in the Commercial, Aerospace and Defense sectors, which allowed me to work in some of the most sophisticated laboratories (NASA, Oak Ridge, Sandia National Laboratory,Los Alamos National Laboratory, etc.)

I began
detailing Mercedes-Benz / BMW helping out at my Father’s dealership where we
would spend three or four days or more detailing vehicles. As well as his Jag
collection back in the late 50's, which he used to enter in Concours d’éléganceevents (detailing to another level) and as such I'm used to a large
number of high-end new and used cars. The one thing I learned (and still have
that last 98% to learn, mind you) way back then still holds true today “ It’s
the surface preparation that makes the difference, not the product”.

I detailed my
first car when I was fourteen (a mere five and a half decades ago) it was a
1929 Bentley Production 1926–1930
(supercharged model from 1929) 720 produced (cost today £2M) that belonged to
my Father's friend Brigadier John Dix of Kensington, London. If, as they say,
"God is in the details," then a 1929 Bentley is truly a religious
experience. I knew then that detailing would become a passion and my metier

Detailing has
always been a relaxing pastime for me and while at college I had a part-time
business detailing classic vintage cars. From there to Concours d’éléganceentrant then judge, and then on to writing car care articles
/instructions, then writing this book on my favourite subject. I have tried virtually
every top product on the market ever since using the arm-breaking Simonizeâ as well as
T-Cut polish and Chelseaâ leather cleaners

With a thirty year background in the physical and chemical sciences and decades in the advanced
synthetic polymers and silica coating industryI've always
believed in empowering my reader’s with facts based on knowledge, experience
and scientific facts as opposed to marketing hype and letting them make their
own logical decisions. Because I’m passionate about what I do and care about
making sure detailing is a safe, fun and rewarding experience for the
enthusiast and professional detailer

Le Mans Racer- 4.5 litres Bentley

Production
1926–1930 (supercharged model from 1929) 720 produced

Foreword

Having been
involved in detailing some of the world’s finest classic and high-end exotic
and luxury automobiles for five decades TOGWT® is the first place both Professional and
Enthusiast detailer’s look to for an
uncompromising level of unbiased
technical and scientific knowledge. Working closely with the industry’s
leading-edge product manufacturers from around the world means the best
technology and product advice is available to enable you to care for your
automobile.

The old grey
whistle test (TOGWT aka Jon Miller) is the author of “Automotive
Detailing; Inside and Out”, a knowledge base for the perfectionist and a 180+
articles that form the series “The Technical Detailing Papers” (before a
software upgrade on the Autopia.org website – TOGWT
Detailing Wiki)

When I first started writing these detailing guides I realized
that it would be very detailed (no pun intended) because of my penchant to
include not just “How it works, but also “Why” it works, as well as an
explanation of the scientific terminology. With that in mind I probably respond
with more detail than some think is necessary. But try to write in a way that
helps the reader to understand not only "How" to do something, but
"Why" they are doing it. I then considered how I could simplify
things; however the only way to accomplish this would be to omit necessary
information and that didn’t feel right to me

Reading these
articles will not improve your detailing skills, lead to a successful business
or change your life. Applying what you learn from it, however, will. That's
where your commitment comes in - you need to make a commitment to yourself
right now that you will take action on what you learn.

Chances are
you own a fine automobile, maybe even an expensive one and you want to give it
the best care.

Our harsh
environment isn’t concerned with how fine an automobile you own, but these tips
are mythologies are written for those who do. A well maintained and cared for
automobile not only looks good but also worth much more when the time comes to
sell it. Regardless of how neglected or soiled the vehicle has become you will
find the methodology and products in this book to restore that ‘as-new’ look
again.

Every weekend you'll find people washing and cleaning their vehicles, some doing the bare
minimum and some who find it therapeutic; washing away the stress of daily life
(some have even called it their ‘golf’) By using the right tools, methods and
products, a simple car wash can be achieved in very little time; using very
little water Optimum No Rinse (ONR) and a just detailed look with Quick
Detailing (QD) For the person who wants a more thorough cleaning or the
perfectionist you’ll find a range of products and methodologies to produce an
‘optically perfect shine’.

Car cleaning
done the wrong way can be at best disappointing, and can do more long-term
damage to the various vehicle surfaces. The purpose of this book is to show you
various ways, utilizing various skill and experience levels, how to retrieve
the original looking finish to your bodywork and interior and how to maintain
it. Although it is divided into separate elements for vehicle detailing, the
approach taken is the assumption that you are giving your vehicle a complete
detail, even if you take it one element at a time. The order in which the
various sections are arranged to enable you to do the various detailing steps,
in the most time efficient manner and is the adopted procedure for trained
professional detailers.

There are also
sections explaining various components, detailing tools and products, and
chemicals as well as an A-Z of detailing terms and methods to enable an
understanding of the “why” as well as the “how” of detailing (also includes
cleaning tips and professional tricks)

This section has
been expanded to help you deal safely and effectively with virtually every car
care detailing situation you might come across, and you can do so with the
knowledge and peace of mind that the products recommended and the application
methods have gone through an amazing amount of real-world testing on many
different marques and their paint film systems.

The proper way
to find out what works and what doesn't is to read the label or relevant MSDS
and find out what it contains; a combination of knowledge and experience will
guide you the rest of the way.

As a Chemical
Engineer I would like to help detailers reach an intelligent and logical
understanding of the many chemicals used in detailing. Improperly used
chemicals can cause damage to the person using them and to surface they are
applied to (sometimes irreparably) because the detailer was not educated
regarding the chemical make-up of the products they used.

Conversely I
also want to tell you that it's a waste of time to dedicate too much time and
attention to them. All that is required is that you learn some basic chemistry
i.e. what pH values mean, what chemicals will safely remove stains and what
detailing chemicals to avoid or the precaution to take if you do choose to use
them.

If a product is
not working for you, experiment until you find one that’s suitable for your needs.After reading these articles, you should have a basic understanding of the
chemicals used in car care products along with some simple generic definitions
of the chemicals used. Enthusiast grade products are the cream of the crop and
are only available through limited distributors both locally and online.

Professionals
typically don't use these products because of time restraints and / or there
price point. Whether you have a daily commuter, a concourse show vehicle or you
just want to protect what has now become an expensive automotive investment.
Most of the answers to maintaining an ‘as new’ condition can be found here.
Unbiased advice without any exaggerated claims or marketing hype.

As a detailer, you already face an enormous number of
product choices in the market, and every few months, the next
"greatest" detailing product attempts to capture your attention long
enough to score your dollars. Over-complication is often used in marketing to
give the illusion of a more research-oriented manufacturer. The opposite of the
very successful approach to product selection KISS (keep it simple stupid)

The products
recommended are easy to use, following the stated methods, gentle towards the
many different material automotive materials and finishes, safe for both you to
use and the environment. This is not a short cut guide, but a list of
recommended methods / products to provide maximum protection for your vehicle,
so you will enjoy maintaining the vehicle in an as-new (or better) condition
for as long as possible.

I didn’t
invent detailing, nor did I invent many of the techniques used in these
following articles. I do however; use these processes and techniques, all of
which have proven them to work effectively, providing consistent show-winning
results. As a long-term regular contributor to the online detailing community

I openly
recommend products that I use (I test many products and only endorse those that
work (i.e. they do what it says on the box) and try my best not to use ‘hype’
terms. I strive to take an ethical stand on testing vendor products, especially
those ‘donated for testing. Thus
allowing readers to know the difference between editorial content and
advertising; it's only my recommendation no matter what products you use the
recommended methodology will apply.

I don't know it all, but detailing and making cars beautiful is my
passion. I've probably made almost every mistake and have seen just about every
problem, when it comes to detailing mistakes teach you what not to do. I have
spent enjoyable times as Concours d’élégance judge and at various car shows (as
both a ‘Best of Show’ judge and entrant, winning and/or placing in many) making
cars beautiful is my passion.

I have always
tried to learn from other people, and keep an open mind on new ideas, new
products and new techniques. It really does all come down to Process over
Product; 85% preparation, 5% application methodology, 2% knowledge of
paint finish and 5% product suitability,
the balance is the ‘emotive reaction’ of the beholder. A manufacturer is free
to place any claim of excellence he wants on his product to make it sell, I
only endorse a product that I have personal experience of by using it, rather
than personal preference, brand loyalty or emotions.

After five
plus decades of detailing vehicles what is left is experience, and experience
unshared is knowledge wasted. I hope that you too enjoy the learning process as
much as I do and with the help of the techniques and methods in this book your
vehicle will become something to have pride in, or perhaps even become a “Best
of Show” Concours d’élégancewinner

The more I
learn, the more I realize what I don’t know. Then at some point, I hope to have
learned enough to realize, that I know nothing at all [We
are all apprentices in a craft where no one ever becomes a master] [Ernest Hemingway] I have always tried
to find out not just “How it works, but also “Why” it works. With that in mind
I probably respond with more detail than some think is necessary.

When the Old
Grey Whistle Test went on air (BBC Television, England) in 1971 it was unique,
in a world accustomed to Top of the Pops, here was a show on which the
bands performed album tracks and were interviewed after they had played. This
was before the days of miming, the music was live and, since the idea was to
air new sounds, many of the bands were making their first television
appearance. The title’s opening sequence featured an animation of a man kicking
a star. He was to become affectionately known as The Starkicker.

Presenter Bob
Harris (whispering Bob) recalls how the show's name was inspired by the doormen
(in grey suits) who worked at the music publishing houses in London's Denmark
Street, known as 'tin pan alley':

"It
was a 'tin pan alley' phrase from years ago. When they got the first pressing
of a record they would play it to people they called the old greys. The ones
they could remember and could whistle having heard it just once or twice had
passed the old grey whistle test".

My
adaptation:

The old grey
whistle test infers that the blokes with a little grey in their hair have
tested these products or tools in real world situations, on many different car
marques and various automotive paint system’s, they are recommended as they
have been found to do what they were designed to do, usually more than
adequately.

~The Keys to Success~

·PRACTICE ~ learn ‘how to’ use tools

·PREPARATION
~the final finish can only be as good as
the prepared surface it’s applied to

·PROCESS
~ learn what products really work and in
what order to apply them

·PRODUCTS
~what’s available and what ‘fixes’ a given
paint condition

·PATIENCE
~ it’s the journey not the arriving, so
enjoy

·PRIDE
~in a job done to the best of your ability

Thank you for
spending the time to learn from this book. I've made every effort in providing
you with as much information as possible to enable you to obtain results that
are without equal.

I have learned
a lot from various detailing forums, most noticeably Autopia and the various
contributors who are prepared to share their knowledge and experience and they
are in large part the inspiration for this book,

I would also
like to make a special mention to Bill Doyle and others from Autopia for their
suggestions and for proof-reading. I would be remiss if I did not also give
recognition to the following Autopia members for their inspiration;
Accumulator, BlgZ28conv, DETAILKING, DavidB, Ron Ketchum (Grumpy), MPhillips, The
other PC, Scottwax, et al

This is not
a product vendor’s catalogue, nor a vendor pretending to be an
educator, as there are a lot of companies that are now writing online books and
DVD’s on detailing and preaching that only the product they sell or manufacture
are suitable. In reality they are just advertisements, with the appearance of
educators as opposed to mere salesman. Those who have something to sell can be
very persuasive, often using marketing facts (i.e. blurring the distinction between science and fiction) to make a
great case while completely ignoring meaningful points, like their product adds
nothing of real value.

Commercialism brings with it concerns of
honesty and true representation. In other words, it’s difficult to know what is
true when someone is motivated by income, i.e. directly targeted at product
sales, more so than an unbiased opinion.

I think that the
more real facts you know the better. I don't set hoods on fire, or subject
paint to a laser beam, nor do I pour acid on the paint. Detail products work on
their real merits, not on smoke and mirrors. It is my intent to educate and
pass on five decades of experience to my readers in not only the “How it works’
but “Why it works”. Because I’m passionate about I do and care about making
sure detailing is a fun and rewarding experience for the enthusiast

I have no
affiliation, professional or otherwise with the listed companies, or their
products. I use and recommend them as they do what the manufacturer says they
will. There are many other products in the marketplace that may be equally
suited to the tasks listed, however I have used the products listed and found
them satisfactory for my use.

The advent of
materials like detailing clay, micro fibre technologies and finely milled micro
abrasives suitable for ceramic hard paint are examples of why it’s so important
to monitor the industries new products, chemical technologies and ideas that
are constantly being introduced, as are the techniques for applying them, hence
this e-book will be up-dated and revised on a regular basis

Detailing
combines chemicals, equipment as well as a knowledge of vehicle surfaces, ‘Chemicals’, refers to the cleaning and protection
products used, ‘Equipment’, refers to the tools used, for example,
random orbital polishers, high-speed rotary polishers, extractors and power
washers, to name a few. ‘Vehicle
Surfaces’, requires a basic understanding
of chemistry and how to rejuvenate and protect each of the many and varied
material surfaces, regardless of its specific surface composition making
objectives observations based upon the results obtained, and adjusting the
techniques used as necessary

Detailing also
takes willingness to experiment, which usually means deviating from the product
manufacturer’s directions, making objectives observations based upon the
results obtained, and adjusting the techniques and products used as necessary,
always keeping an open mind on manufacturer’s claims for their products.

About Me

These articles are college level PhD(tailing) material that is and a wealth of factual discussion that is easily understood and very informative. It is available on Amazon’s Digital Text Platform, Kindle 3 and the Apple iPad. The information in these articles is factual rather than subjective. It is not intended to be a source of opinion but rather knowledge attained by verifiable means, based on tried and proven techniques, methodologies and facts about detailing and the chemicals and products used
My garage
Jaguar XFR V8 Stratus Grey
‘10, Audi S8 4.2 Night Blue Pearl
'08, Mercedes 380SL '84 Beige