Preheat oven to 450 F. Place the skillets into the oven and heat 30–40 minutes before making pizza.

While the skillets are heating, make the tomato sauce. Saute the onion in the butter over medium heat. Add salt to taste.

In a blender, puree the tomatoes (if using fresh tomatoes, roast them at 425 F for 20 minutes, then blend). Add to the onions and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low. Add oregano and bay leaves. Cook 1 hour. Be sure to remove the bay leaves when the sauce is finished cooking.

After the dough has risen, knead it and divide into three equal pieces. Wrap and freeze any dough you won’t be using.

Stretch or roll the remaining dough into two 6-inch disks, cover with a towel and let rest 10 minutes. After this second rising, stretch or roll the dough into two 12-inch pizza crusts.

Remove the skillet from the oven and place a crust in it, stretching the dough to cover the bottom of the pan if necessary.

For pizza margherita, spread the sliced plum tomatoes across the dough, leaving a 1-inch rim. Cover with half the mozzarella. Lightly brush the rim of the crust with olive oil for a nice golden finish.

Return the skillet to the oven, reduce heat to 375 F, and cook 20–30 minutes, until dough is cooked and cheese is melted. Remove the pizza to a cutting board and top with the basil. Cut into 4 or 6 pieces.

For salami pizza, place remaining dough in the skillet. Spread pizza sauce on the dough, leaving a 1-inch rim. There will be sauce left over, but you can freeze it for later use. Spread most of the cheese over the sauce, then cover with salami slices. Sprinkle with the rest of the cheese.

Return the skillet to the oven, reduce heat to 375 F, and cook 20–30 minutes, until dough is cooked and cheese is melted. Remove pizza to a cutting board and cut into 4 or 6 pieces.