Chevy Tracker Starting and Stalling Problems

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My 2001 2.0 Tracker had the same problem. Ordered a new Cam Position Sensor. Problem solved. Same exact symptoms as you describe. Be careful when you pull the old one. You will have to set the timing on the new one! Good Luck.

I have a 1996 Tracker. It stalls, not all the time, right after I start it. Must ride gas pedal to keep up rpm's or it will stall. Then sometimes it maintains about 600 rpm's but not often. There is no fast idle when cold , runs at low rpms all the time at idle and at driveanyone know what this could be?thanks

I recently took a 98' Tracker off of my fathers hands. He has never had a problem with it other than a minor oil leak. I take it over, it runs great, but as soon as I come to a stop it doesn't go. I push the gas pedal and nothing. I have to wait a minute or so until it kicks back in. Anybody know what is causing this? Please let me know. Greatly appreciate all the feed back. Thanks.

I bet you have a bad camshaft position sensor. This seems to be a VERY common issue with these 2.0 trackers and suzukis. The next time it gets hot, try pouring some water on the sensor to cool it down. The sensor is located on the driver's side ( in the engine compartment) mounted directly to the back of the cylinder head. It is a big aluminum piece with a black pick-up sensor mounted to it. If you read more on this website, you'll find out some more about this problem. Mine done it and all you have to do is figure out a way to keep that sensor cool, and the problems are gone. Some people have replaced the sensors, but once the new one gets hot, it does the same thing again.

I have a 1998 chevy tracker. It won't start for crap. It almost starts, sounds like it's wants gas. I just changed the fuel filter, and same result. No starting. Could it be the fuel pump:? Please anyone if you can give me some info that would be great. I don't want to take it to a mechanic, too expensive, unless I have to. Sounds like I may have to.

About a month ago my Tracker started stalling on me, at first it would start right away but gradually got to the point it would have to sit for at least 30 minutes before it would restart. I took it to the Chevy dealer, they had it for 3 days and couldnt figure out what was wrong, no engine codes were present. I did some research on it and found this site and learned about the cam position sensor. After learning that the sensor getting too hot it would fail I tried running some tests of my own on the vehical with interesting results. Trying to get the truck to fail on its own without taking it out of town seemed impossible, so I let it reach full running temp in the driveway and set a hair dryer right onto the sensor to simulate the extra heat from the engine while driving, after about an hour it failed, and wouldnt restart. Let it sit for awhile (about 45 minutes) and it restarted. I did some searching for the part which I found that most part stores in this area cant even order the part, I found two places that could order it, Napa and Autozone. I found something interesting at Napa, turns out there is a part called a Crankshaft Sensor/Camshaft Syncronizer. Its the same part for just over half the price, I bought it for $264.00 I changed it myself, about a 10 minute job. Napa told me to mark the old sensor with a marker and transfere it to the new part for reinstallation the computer will time itself as long as its close, I wouldnt totally recommend this, use a mark to get it close to where the old one was but use a timing light to time it right, just a few degrees off time can cause a misfire and cause damage to the emission system. Because the 2.5L V6 has no ignition wires it made it a trick to hook up a timing light, but by using a Craftsman timing light and attaching the ignition pickup on the wire harness right tight to the #1 ignition coil over the spark plug did allow the timing light to work. On the 2.5L the timing was 5' +TDC you are allowed 2 degree's +or- by the books but I suggest getting it as close as possible to 5 degree's, which will prevent the spark advance from causing a misfire at higher rpm's. As a prevenative measure for a future failure I installed a inline 12V DC air blower and mounted it to the driver side fender well with flexable plastic hose, directed right onto the top of the sensor blowing air downward to disapate heat down the firewall and under the vehical. I wired it into switched power. Cost about $50.00 to install. Cause of the remote location of the sensor it cannot get proper air flow to keep the sensor from overheating. It has been running excellent ever since.

replaced camshaft sensor ($500)starting problem solved; engine wanted to stall and ran rough, injectors flushed through rail ($150), problem solved; also, my kind Chevy dealer replaced NO CHARGE the catalytic converter (runs about $1600) since this code showed up and he said it would have to be done eventually. (this is warranteed by law for up to five years or 80K miles.Thank you all for your help, this is a wonderful website. :shades:

Well I replace my air filter every other oil change. Did you recently change the camshaft sensor or crank sensor? If the timing is a little off from replacing either sensor can cause extra fuel consumption. If thats not the case I would be checking the oxygen sensors as well, they can cause increased fuel consumption as well. Another thing to look at too is the type of fuel you are using, gas stations are using more and more of ethinol in there fuel which doesnt get as good of fuel milage out of it. There is one gas station here where I live I try to stay away from can make as much as 3 to 5 miles per gallon difference in my tracker, just for that reason.

My 1999 4WD 2DR 2.0L tracker generally runs fine. Though when it drops below 20 degrees it will intermittently have trouble cold starting. Once it gets in this mode it is hard to get back to normal operation. When it tries to start, it willl just barely cough & sputter for about 1/2 second. I've added drygas deicer, to no help & tried a few blasts of starting spray. Good strong battery and cranking. But what is disturbing is that about every 5th try I get a severe backfire that ocassionally blows off the air filter cover (knocks the spring clips loose).

If I do manage to get it started, it clears its throat & runs fine for days or weeks.Also, I noted every time I have this trouble the gas tank is near 100% full.

Check the timing, the backfire is a good indication that the timing may be a little off. The computer will adjust itself on timing to a certain point but if the timing gets a little off outside of its parameters it may cause problems. Also you may want to check out your timing belt for wear or missing teeth. From your message I take it there is no engine light? Hope this helps.

I have a 2003 chevy tracker with a v-6 that had the same problem, started out stalling and restarting right away then progressed to stalling and not starting for 30 minutes or better. No engine light and mechanics couldnt find the problem, did some research and found out that the camshaft position sensor would missread time and cause the engine to stall, I replaced it and no problem since. Hope this helps!

I have a 1996 Tracker 127,000 miles on it, 4cy 1.6 engine.The vehicle starts up everytime on first start up no matter how hot or cold it never fails me. however, after driving it for awhile and engine is hot, it will want to stall or does stall out ,but starts right back up again, sometimes you will have to flutter gas petal to keep running, but once running it runs great no stutter or sputtering, just wants to stall or does,, any help would be greatly appriciated!! Thanks!

This is the answer to car stalling after running for a while...My daughter broke down at the Mall, Bank and even on I-95 on her way home from Va. to NJ. Get this replaced and you will be fine...no problems in 2 years and I found the answer here where no dealer could help

i absolutely am in desperate need to fix my ****** tracker as it brings me to and from work (i travel across ontario, so you see how important my pos is)

i have read millions of threads on here about cam sensors overheating and have the same problem. i have already replaced this sensor, as well as fixed the fuel filter, changed the spark plugs and have spoken to a mechanic at a shop. there have been no solutions so far. right now, my boyfriend has my windshield washer resevoir hose ziptied to the top of my camshaft sensor so when it starts to act up in traffic (or anywhere for that matter) i can quickly stop it from dying on me. i know this is not the "mechanically proper way" of fixing this issue, and i cant keep leaving pee stains everywhere i go. PLEASE HELP. someone, anyone, give me some ideas. WHY IS MY CAMSHAFT SENSOR OVERHEATING?! ??!?!?!?!?!

i am ready to pull my hair out, and my boyfriend is losing hair as i type. :lemon: I HATE THIS PROBLEM AND IT NEEDS TO STOP FOR GOOD. any suggestions????

I replaced my sensor, thats all. But if you do have a problem with your timing you might need to get it fixed. I didnt have to do anything put put in the new sensor, but the first one was defective so I had to do it twice. Over a year ago and so far so good.

If I turn on A/C or step on brake and slow down, it will stall if I dont step on the gas. Was running fine, turned car off, Tried to start about 15 min. later, battery weak. Got a jump. Bought new battery. After I put in new battery, the rough idle and stalling started. Cleaned terminal ends thoroughly. Power good, lights, dash, horn ect.

to check if its your cam sensor pour water on the sensor while its hot the immediately try to start your car. If it starts prob the sensor. behind the valve cover and cost me $80 bucks, but first replacement was bad and had to do again.

Here is my problem, when we are driving the tracker in normal traffic, ( i.e. normal flow, traffic lights, stop signs, etc.) the vehicle drives about as good as a tracker can. However, when it sits in traffic idleing or at a store idleing in park for about 10 minutes, the car won't drive. The engine bucks and heaves and coughs and is very sporadic. When you push on the gas pedal, it just won't go without bucking itself and the occupants all over the place. And when we park it after it has started doing this, the engine will shut off before we can put it in park. When we try to start it, it heaves, bucks and won't start. After about 10 minutes of letting it rest with the engine off, it starts up fine and runs normal.The mechanic we took it to put it on the diagnostic and and he couldn't find anything wrong with the car. The check engine light does not come on and the temperature gauge does not rise. He changed the fuel filter and we hoped that that would solve the problem. Unfortunately it did not. Five days later, after no problems, the car started doing it again. It happens regardless the time of day, as it has done this in the morning, middle of the day and in the late afternoon/early evening. It has also done this with the AC being on and off. What the hell is going on here ?? My wife had a '97 GEO tracker that was stick with a 4 cylinder engine and it NEVER did this, EVER !! Now, the '02 she's driving started doing this about a couple weeks ago. It's frustrating to say the least. The one thing we don't want to do is start replacing parts frivolously in order to chase this problem down. Does ANYONE out there have a solution for us or at least a similar story that can be shared that has gotten the problem fixed ?? Thanks in advance for the information, my wife and I both certainly appreciate it.P.S. - I've read people referencing the Cam shaft sensor and another sensor, but could it possibly be a bad or going bad catalytic converter ??