Thursday, 2 February 2017

The Session #120 - The Five Points Brick Field Brown

I chose the topic of brown beer for The Session in an
attempt to direct attention to some of the beer world’s underappreciated
styles. Top of this list for me has always been brown ale, a subject to which I’ve
dedicated plenty of words already on this blog. What more can I say on the
subject?

Pondering this, I visited The Black Dove in Brighton for a
pint of Brick Field Brown, a fairly new beer from The Five Points brewery in
Hackney. I was instantly impressed by its hue; a dark, woody colour that would
sit perfectly between bitter and stout on a beery colour chart. Taking a first
gulp, smooth chocolate flavours were first to register. A very gentle coffee roast
follows, a bit like you’d expect from a good dark mild and far subtler than
that in a porter or stout. As it warms, that malt character becomes a little
sweeter, with a suggestion of dulce de leche. Key for me is the hop profile – a
subtle wave of peach and apricot before a bitter finish.

But what’s particularly exciting about Brick Field Brown is
that, unlike most modern brown ales from British breweries, it is not a seasonal or one-off brew; it’s a
permanent addition to Five Points’ core range. Which makes sense really – Community
and Marketing Manager Doreen Joy Barber has described Five Points’ brand as “norm-core”;
they’re not firing out limited edition beers or chasing trends, concentrating
instead on a small portfolio which is executed to absolute perfection. Like
myself, former Lead Assistant Brewer, Vito (now at Meantime) is passionate
about brown ale, which Doreen calls “an unsung format”. Brick Field Brown began
life as Vito’s Brown on the brewery’s pilot kit in late 2015, appearing for the
thirsty public at that year’s London Brewer’s Market before joining the core line-up.

Brown ale may not excite everybody, but I hope that Five
Points’ reputation for consistency and quality will tempt punters to give
it a go. I certainly wasn’t expecting a brewery in hip East London to advocate the
style, but I’m absolutely delighted they have. Seek it out if you can.