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Thanks guys, I am familiar with the resources, my problem is more or less just the scale at the moment. The resources seem to run a more archaic % based fuel enrichment rather than the increased pulsewidth ms based fuel enrichment that seems to be the modern norm or at least the norm in the newer versions. Watching the supra video for example I tried using the first point as a reference only to find that my chart won't allow anything higher than 25.5ms which is when I realized that the supra video is in %.
I'll be giving it a shot shortly.

Would anyone have a time based acceleration curve that they would be willing to share?
MS2 pcb3.57
Engine is a 2jz, but I think any L28ET or such curve would be great to just get an eye on. A screen shot or the 4 points typed out would be fantastic. I'm running a bit lean on tip in, so I need to up the ms of fuel added on accel, but I'm just not sure what ball park I should be aiming for and would be nice to have something to kind of go on.

Fair enough, I'm still on the fence, I think I am going to pursue the idea to completion before I really take stock, I feel like there is something there that might be kind of neat.
I don't really recall the brand, I followed the link and just ordered it off of amazon from the poster on here since I wanted the option to return it if necessary. Wired it up last night, and goodness these are great. They throw a really good beam, so lighting I think is not going to be a problem now. The vinyl get's blown out on camera, but the car does look quite angry which is what I was going for.
Yea that is the guy, I couldn't remember his name. I think he called them zombie eyes. When you look at them from the front on a white car though to me they look like panda eyes
They have a standing meet on Saturdays. I mean the storage isn't cheap, I think it is $200 a month on top of a membership fee and initiation fee.
Assembling the clear turn signals, then I'll update with a picture. The clears really clean up the front end in my book.

For sure, I mean any guy that wants to throw a japanese motor into an american icon is ok in my book
I have just been trying to enjoy the car in the limited nice weather we have over here.
Zestsaz stopped by and we grabbed a few pics and went for a little drive around the block.
Pretty funny, his daily G37 absolutely dwarfs the Z.
Grabbed some food at the local eatery closeby.
Met up with fairlady, we have been kind of hanging out a bit more, he has a nice work space that he has been very generous with, and I've been saving random parts here and there, kind of a perfect situation. Unfortunately just as he started making his car awesome with a brake refurbish, new seats, lowered, bumper removed, and rims (generously lent by yours truly :)), it was stolen.
If anyone finds a set of 15x7 konig rewinds with the center ground down to look more like watanabe's let me know! If you see the whole car, even better! L28ET swapped 280z.
Anyways, we made a day of it, taught him the basics of welding. For his future car
Ground it down a little bit, then threw on some clear coat.
Sits a bit crooked, but it has adjustment.
Went to a place called the Shop that recently opened.
They call it a premier car club, you can store cars and work on them or have them worked on. Honestly if I didn't have my own tools it might be something I would look into.
Met up with some local car guys from opposite lock.
First time actually taking the car on some twisties.
The suspension was marvelous, the car was nimble. The only problems really were the brakes feeling inadequate, the noise, and the tune running a bit lean on tip in.
The C63 AMG is also really quite fast. Not sure how we would have determined that *cough*, but decidedly I believe it would out perform me in say such an environment as from a small roll. May have to start playing with the boost settings :D.
Finally also spent some time on some aesthetics. Honestly my car is pretty standard, it was shaved a bit by the previous owner, which I finished up, but take away the gold wheels and front lip and it is pretty stock.
Decided to diverge from that a bit. There really is a fine line here, not sure how well I am walking it, but nothing is really permanent.
First off are what I am calling panda eyes.
I've seen it done before so I can't take credit here.
Then headlight covers, also pretty standard.
My first attempt. In my mind I was hoping for the best of both, but it is a bit more see thru than I wanted.
So some solid vinyl
A bit more to my liking. It stems from me noticing a natural line the headlight covers reveal. In certain angles the car almost looks angry. I decided to make it a bit more pornounced.
The light output was pretty bad to start, even with HID's in a projected lens.
So I swapped to the LED lights another forum member had pretty good success with. These fit with no modification other than making the hole a bit bigger in the back to account for the bigger plug, which mine already were from the moving HID setup I had ages ago.
Did some wiring and wrapping for the adapters. Hoping to put them in and test today. Honestly not the biggest deal. I can pull the headlight covers if it turns out the light output is cut drastically, not that I drive around very often at night.
All my clear lenses arrived as well. So I finished wiring the side markers, and now all I have left are the front turn signals which I need to repair the housings and clean before installing all new hardware.
Let me know what you guys think. Everything is reversible other than the headlights, which I think I will keep regardless. Vinyl wrap also seems to be pretty doable. Some of the curves can be a real pain, but with the new stuff with heat activation you have a lot of room to readjust. Might be going down that route honestly.

The AWD one is the V8 one with I think purple livery. Not much info on it that I have looked for. Haven't seen the one from thailand, not sure I want to with that endorsement lol.
The boxer one wasn't done exactly well, at least the one on here:
But he did show it could be done via just moving the whole driveline forward. Not ideal and would probably handle worse than a subaru, but feasible yes.
Agreed, placing an engine in somewhere is not very difficult based on your definition of "in" and how comfortable you are with a sawzall/angle grinder, making it all work together is a completely other matter.
There is a chassis swap that is making some progress on GRM https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/subaru-powered-datsun-240z/128669/page3/
That would be the way I would do it if I was intent on doing it. Just keep the mounting points and graft the body onto it.
I think people have done it do 510's given they have the right "shortness" for it and mods like shock tower removal is a thing that I've seen more on 510's than on Z's (that is still a small number like two 510's to 0 Z's).

I mean boxer has been done before, and AWD has also been implemented before. Doing both I can't say I have seen and there are some logistic points of contention granted those could be solved creatively or via hack job. It is some what feasible compared to some other options, granted not nearly as easy as almost all others.

Oh wow, yea that is hot haha. I'm holding steady at 185*F.
Hmm would definitely be worth throwing a timing light at it then if for nothing more than piece of mind.
I meant survival in just the factor of debris and such. Even steel braid can suffer debris failure, but it is more or less oil resistant. The Nylon stuff can can become a bit brittle with heat and oil.
Definitely jealous of all the room you have to run the fuel stuff with the cell in the car.

17's look a bit too big on a stock body Z, you do want to go above 14's to make sure you have adequate clearance so 15-16's are a good bet.
Running big spacers is not really recommended, quality spacers are going to run almost as much as a cheap wheel. If you are running a 5 lug conversion spacer and your future plans are to ditch the spacer, then your wheels unless they have a dual pattern are not going to work unless you convert to 5 lug which would be new hubs and redrilled or new stub axles.
I had not heard of the AZC kit pushing the the essential track width out. Maybe might be worth looking into T3 Or Silvermine for an alternative? They all run wilwood calipers.
I get your concern, but seems like you really haven't decided a route. You could pick a really common wheel that has good resale value if you are afraid of spending money twice and just plan on offloading them at a later date. The knockoff knockoff wheel like XXR tend do be cheap, but loose value in the second hand market.

Hmm what do you consider hot and lean?
It looks like you have a hose, but do you have a coolant overflow can?
I know my car would continually pee on the floor from expanding coolant, I imagine if it did that long enough it would not only loose thermal capacity, but loose the benefit a sealed pressure system.
8AN is a good choice big enough for pretty much any semblance of sane power, although is that the nylon braid hose? Not sure how that stuff will survive under the car.

The OEM 7mgte injectors are 440cc low impedance, some of the aftermarket offerings can kind of go back and forth, I think TLF is a biggish vendor, but they use venom injectors so stay away from those. As chickenman said, buying the injector resistor pack with the injectors would be a good idea. On the supra it is a silver box with fins. Be wary the wires are fairly short so leave yourself quite a bit of room.

Replacing the lock rings would also help. Remember to clean the bolts off really well as well. They are big and tend to have a bit of gunk on them.
Car looks quite good. Your lettering is a lot better than mine. Are they vinyl?

I think honestly I'm kind of in the same boat. I've done a lot that I want to do with the car. I'm doing cosmetics and going to work out some of the kinks, not sure if I'll have the means to hold onto it much longer into the future.
I do appreciate the comforts a modern car brings, but I do enjoy the interactions the Z brings.
Will be interesting what you decide.

I know one shop turned me away because they said they couldn't establish a frame of reference to start the alignment. Another shop told me that was basically bull, they just didn't want to take the time.
I had the same thing happen with poly bushings. You have to use some type of thread locker on the inboard lower control arm bolts, similarly with those clamps make sure to use thread locker as well.

I kind of understand where you are coming from. Personally I plan on having a spare engine and transmission at some point, but that is due to a sense of ever impending doom and paranoia I happen to have.
Having spares is nice, but the parts aren't unobtanium. You can buy spare rotor sections if you get a two piece kit and spare pads. You probably won't be able to walk into a generic parts store and get them same day for $40 a piece, but you could have a spare set with you if it is something you feel you are going to work through in a year. Given the cost of a track day having a full set of rotors and pads in your parts chest might not be a bad idea.
Alternatively you can go with the vented rotors and 4runner fronts, granted even those I'm not sure if you could find same day off the shelf. Even rotors for my honda I had to wait a day.