i think it's time to change my Noctua NH-U12P SE1366 out with a Corsair Hydro solution, i am not in to building my own watercooling system (bcs i am not comfortable with watercooling in the first place ^^; ) , but i dunno which to take if i should go H60, H80 or H100.

i am thinking about that bcs my cpu is hitting 82c under load in Prime95
and i don't think i need ventilation in my case i got a 140mm and a 120mm in the top of my case and a 120mm in side down at my gfx and a 120mm in rear to take all the hot air out so i think i need another cooler.

If i'm not wrong the 620 competes with the H60 and the 920 with the H80, being the performance 2-3% worse compared to the Corsair's.
The diference you will see from your current cooler might be a gorgeous 12-15ºC, as you are getting 82ºC ATM :b
If you can get a good price on these, go ahead!

I don't think a cooler swap is going to bring you more than a couple degrees with Prime95 or IBT involved. If I had to go with one of the three, I would go with the H80. The H100 is nice, but considering the need for room it takes, the single fat rad wasn't that far behind it.

You could also go real cheap and buy a set of fans for the Noc with better static pressure and more CFM increasing the capability of the cooler you have

i think you have 3 options here:
1- as sneekypeet said, you can buy some fans and get maybe 7º-10ºC lower temps
2- go closed loop H2O and get around 12-15ºC lower temps
3- build custom H2O and get the real OC potential without killing your CPU (wich i believe you are ATM)

IMHO i think its better to go with option 1 and keep your CPU in the safe zone of the 72ºC if you don't wanna kill that 2500k

i got two NF-P12 fans on my cooler atm, i am just thinking didn't i apply enough paste on the cpu, i took a small drip of my big tube and i was like stretching it out so it covered every spot on the cpu's heatsink ^^;

Isn't near 1.4v kinda high for 32nm? I know you said you are against it but coming from your current Noctua there isn't really anything much better to warrant the price, MAYBE the H100.

Click to expand...

yes, 1.4v is high... i remember reading somewhere that Intel specs for the 32nm were 1.365v max core voltage and 72ºC max temp, beyond that the CPU will start degrading.
and you are combining heat with high voltage to 24/7, beware.

I did a quick research, and your fans are 54CFM. I don't believe you can get much lower temps with even 90CFM fans... correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe it will drop 3-4ºC max.
Sorry for my previous statement related to temps, but i thought the Noctua fans on that cooler were lower CFM ones.

there will go 2month now until i got the money now bcs i bought a used Intel SSD, so i will try playing a little with the voltage to see if i can do this speed around 1.1 or something instead see if that will bring the temps down.

i don't think i need ventilation in my case i got a 140mm and a 120mm in the top of my case and a 120mm in side down at my gfx and a 120mm in rear to take all the hot air out so i think i need another cooler.

Click to expand...

You have 3 exhaust and only 1 intake?
That's a big problem right there.
Don't you have a front intake fan?
You need more cool air rammed into the case. That fix, by itself, will cool things down 2-5C at least (maybe more, depending on the fans).
You need intake fans with a high static pressure rating.

You should definitely lower your OC and voltage a bit. You don't really need any of that OC at all for gaming. It's doing nothing for you really. Maybe if you had a second 570...

Definitely try reseating the cooler. The H100 would definitely lower your temps if installed properly as intake. It would have its own supply of air from outside the case, and the rest of the fans could be used for cooling the chipset and such.

Ducky Year of the Snake w/ Cherry MX Browns & Year of the Tiger PBT Keycaps | Razer Deathadder Black

Positive pressure with fan filters on all the intake fans is also the cleanest way to run a computer dust-wise.

IMO, you've found a good "benchmarking" overclock. Now, you need to dial down to more reasonable values for a "24/7" overclock, somewhere closer to 100x43 or so. You are not getting additional FPS in games that warrants stressing your CPU this much, whether you have auto-adjusting voltage or not.

Positive pressure with fan filters on all the intake fans is also the cleanest way to run a computer dust-wise.

IMO, you've found a good "benchmarking" overclock. Now, you need to dial down to more reasonable values for a "24/7" overclock, somewhere closer to 100x43 or so. You are not getting additional FPS in games that warrants stressing your CPU this much, whether you have auto-adjusting voltage or not.

Click to expand...

it's only the fan in the side of my case that actually don't have dust filter, i have been too lazy to buy one for it when we r talking intake, it's standart with the CM690II.

LordJummy i don't give much for SLi i tried it with two GTX460 in Mafia II at 1080p i actually didn't get much fps more with SLi or one dedicated for PhysX in 1080p with a Q6700, so one GTX 570 is enough for me.

JrRacinFan here is my temps at 3360mhz, yeah ino it's 60mhz more than stock bcs of the BLCK at 101,8mhz but that shouldn't make much of a different and CPU Voltage in the ECS P67H2-A is set to disabled.

what u think of these temps and the voltage of 1.260 V according to CPU-Z? too much or oki?

maybe i can go from in bios if i get CPU Voltage manually, i dunno if i can hit 1.200V or lower at 4ghz, even i kinda want to run 4,5ghz 24-7 yeah ino insane but srsly who ain't that when it comes to 24-7 overclocking?