Let me begin by saying, what we have here is not exactly a House Wrecker,though the principles and inspiration come straight from this site. What I needed was a subwoofer to add to my surround system, and from what I hadread, the HWK seemed to be the best option.

The coffee table has been around for a while. I initially built it as a subseveral years ago and having two KEF 139B's, I popped them in either endand waited for the magic to happen. And waited. And waited. Of coursethat was before I had even heard of Decware and realised that here, we hadaccess to some great, pro grade products that could be easily built, cheaply.

So it was a case of retro fitting the coffee table, gutting it and starting again.Purchasing 12" drivers fairly cheap was a bonus. Only problem, the coffeetable sound box is only 10.5" high. Inclining the speaker baffles, is an unusualsolution that seems to work. The internal dimensions of the box are 10.5 X 19.5X 45 inches. The weight is 56kg.

The drivers are Sony Xplod, 12", wired in series, so as to present an 8 Ohmimpedence to the Amp.

I downsized the ports, (basic ratio 12/15 X's the plans etc) and have yet to fita port extension on the main port, still on the lookout for one.

Very impressive results so far, especially when you perch your legs up on the table whilst watching a dynamic sounding movie. Thunderbolts crack throughyour feet. And I have yet to sort out a proper subwoofer controller for it.

In your picture, top left corner, it looks like something is lying on its side, if that's the case you're listening to loud!!!!!

By the way, you don't have to make the top port round, just figure the surface area of the diameter port you need and build a square port the same length as the round port would have been with the same area. mount the port to the underside and flush trim the square to match the port.

Looks good by the way. Someone, recently sent me a picture of there WO-32 made into a coffee table with legs and all, it was beautiful.

Hey Bob,Will finish the Coffee Table soon enough. Just a few trimmings needed to getit back upto scratch. Pity I have to run a cable across the floor, but it'sterminated on the box with some gold plate terminals and I just unplugthe CTHWK when not in use.Here's another pic...

Using a test disc that has has tracks of discrete frequencies, I compared thesound difference at the top port with and without an insert. The top port is5" in diameter, the insert is an old can of baby milk powder, snug fit and 6.5" long.

Starting at 20 Htz and going up, in all cases the quality of sound and the volumewas greater without using the can insert. With the insert in place, the CTHWKseemed to be huffing and puffing. The same effect remained when I sealedone of the bottom ports (~3" diameter).

The volume started taking a big dip around 1000 Htz, still a faint squeakat 10000 Htz, but beyond that, nothing.

I guess the end result is I will be operating the CTHWK without the insert. Icould try and enlarge the ports to plan, but I think I may have hit on a goodcompromise here and will sit on it for a while - gives good massages too :)

I have yet to give it a good caning, things may change when I wind up the wick.

Dear 60, the renovation of the coffee table was done in such a rush and in weather that would melt chocolate - thats cooking chocolate my man,that I never took the time to take construction pics.

There is no stuffing or sound insulation internally. I've built large speakersin the past, initially well lined and stuffed, but have found them to perform better, the more stuffing I remove. That said, I may line the top chamber internallywith self adhesive foam rubber matting and see how things behave.

I would like to say I could pull the CTHWK apart and try redirecting the drivers,but I can't, she's welded closed. It would be a major operation.

One thing I will do is fit and glue a thin sheet (2-3mm) of ply wood to both ends of the box. The ends are a bit underdone, 18mm HD chip (gees, I've got loads ofthat stuff), and after looking at the HWK plans, and seeing how the ends of my CTthump about, I can see why Steve insists on using 2X layers of everything. Thoughthin, the ply should stiffen things up a little.

Have checked out your 'Pipe Speaker', great work. I have an eight foot lengthof heavy (irrigation type) PVC pipe in my back yard, 12" in diameter - no, I'mnot going to touch it for a while yet, then again I'm not going to throw it either.

and, it works. Just have to do some fine tuning and clean up a few hums,but even at low volume, it sure sets the room humming. So now that myLuxman LV-92 is bridged, it should be putting out around 140 W rms. Hell,40 Watts was scary ;D.

Will do some tests and send some pics of the controller. An interesting littlekit.