The drivers side coil is not firing despite having bought a new one and making sure its getting power. Moving the other coil to the drivers side results in the new coil not firing and the old one now on the passenger side firing fine.

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Related Questions:

The normal way to test a coil is to verify you have power on the positive side and when you take away the ground connection it should send power out the tower. I think if the ohms reading between the posts is zero its dead but otherwise it does not tell you much.

Make sure the coil is getting power. Then you would need to check the crankshaft sensor for continuity after unplugging it. If the coil is getting power and the crankshaft sensor is tested good, then the brain box must be dropping the signals.

Not sure where you are getting voltage, but the coils get power from the key and a ground signal from the computer. The voltage may actually come from a relay.So you should have voltage on one side with the key on, and a ground pulse on the other when the engine is cranked. The coils fire when the ground is removed.

You may have a bad connection on the out side of the coil. Make sure it is connected with the right polarity, The positive terminal should be connected to the ingnition with a negative earthed battery.
Take the spark lead out of the distributor and hold it close to the engine block, crank the engine and see if you have spark then, You may be losing it at the distributor.

this could be the ignition coil on the 2-3 side of the coil.inspect the connector on the coil to make sure it is good.if the coil has been this hot replace it(used one)as there will be other internal damage to it.these coils are grounded through the computer and supplied power with the key in the on position.the computer grounds the circuit for the cylinder that is to be fired.these also have coil drivers in the computer which may have shorted out.have the system checked out first before replacing parts as if its a shorted driver then it will take out the replaced coil.

check the injectors on that bank for pulses.. a regular 12v text light will do it should flash when cranking... its very possible that the crank sensor or camshaft sensor on the replacement engine is bad and giving you all the problems you have now.. are you using the original injectors? if you have injector pulses then check the coil for pulses the same way.. btw make sure you have 12v to them even before cranking engine could be a bad asd relay..wet plugs on one bank would also indicate a possible leaking injector and basicly draing the fuel starving the oposite bank for fuel.. to verify that the rail must be lifted by removing all 4 bolts make sure the clips hold the injectors firmly and turn the key to run but dont crank it then look for fuel leakin from bottom of injector(s) any drips is a bad injector..

make sure the cam sensor is plugged in properly, located on the drivers side on the side of the head, if is is I would check make sure the cam is turing, if is is it could possably be the timeing is out on the belt