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Hi,Just got a 2012 S-works Epic 29er.I am interested in making some ww mods.Wondering what mods that you have made.I have already changed to a lighter handlebar.I intend to put a lighter post (Momsen Design) and a carbon rail saddle, also a Ritchey WCS stem.

What else?Lighter rotors?What bolts?Do people use Ti disc caliper bolts?

stock post is a pig. i went with a masterpiece with some ti bolts, washers, and barrel nuts. stem is relatively light, though, and a good performer (f109). ti rotor bolts for sure. if you got the sram version, it has the ti bolts already. little things like the brain mounting bolt and brain hose clip bolt are steel, so change those out. change the stock valves out-i used american classics because theyre all aluminum with a removable core and RED! chainrings can help, also look into using lightning's spider as its compatible with the sworks crank but supposedly half the weight.

What tires are those? Like them?How much do you estimate 1x10 saves you? Not that I would do it- I have climbs steep enough that they challenge my 24/36 bottom gear.So far I switched to a Ritchey WCS stem, Salsa pro moto carbon 11 deg bars, and I am getting a carbon rail Romin saddle and Momsen design layback post.

Maxxis Ikon 2.2 in the front and a Specialized S-works Fast Trak 2.0" in the rear.

The one on the picture is actually the older LK S-works tire, as I cut a rear Ikon a few days prior and had this tire sitting around. I've since replaced it with one of the 2012 S-works Fast Trak 2.0" tires with the new tread pattern.

I have a race this weekend and couldn't source another Maxxis Ikon fast enough. So far the Fast Trak has proven pretty nice. It's a bit lower in volume than the Ikon, but rolls a touch faster. Grip has been good on the two rides I've used it on. Racing this weekend on this setup, so I'll let you know how it does.

RE 1x10:

I'm not sure how much it saves.... I do it for reliability and simplicity more than anything else. I simply adjust my froth chain ring according to where I'm riding. Most of the time I leave a 34T on the front (with 11x36 out back). Fast courses I will swap a 36T and if there is a lot of climbing then I go with a 32T. Even in UT and CO, I've been fine with this setup for a few years now. If it were a dedicated trail bike then I'd likely go with a double for a bit lower gearing.

I'm guessing you save about 100g on the shifter, 30g on cable and housing, 40g on chain ring, and a bit more on the front der (some of which you gain back from chain guide).

Basically, it is the SRAM Stock version - switched in NoTubes wheels, Schwalbe Tires, KCNC finishing kit (front skewer, grips, bar, stem, post). I am currently using the older Phenom saddle but will probably find something lighter. I have not had it on a very accurate scale but it is approximately 9.8kg ready to race (with cage/pedals/computer).