FOR decades, food has been restaurateur Ken Aretsky’s livelihood – but his passion for Cuban cigars nearly choked his career.

In 1998, the former ’21’ manager faced five to 10 years for violating the Trading with the Enemy Act after federal agents stormed the upstairs cigar bar of his Patroon and seized dozens of boxes of Castro’s finest.

Aretsky and his manager were arrested for selling the stinky contraband.

“I was devastated,” Aretsky said later. “Clearly we did something wrong and were punished accordingly.”

After pleading guilty to two misdemeanors, Aretsky was fined $5,000 and ordered to perform 200 hours of community service, which included mentoring inner-city students.

The fine has long since been paid and the hours served, but Aretsky – who now owns 92 and Butterfield 81, as well as Patroon – continues to help underprivileged students pursue careers in the food-service industry through C-CAP (Careers Through Culinary Arts Program).

“Working with these kids is a new world for me,” says the 59-year-old.

Today, Aretsky has placed many of his pupils in his three restaurants as pastry chefs, line cooks and managers.

A fourth anniversary gala benefit for C-Cap was set for last night in Grand Central Terminal. NBC’s Al Roker was to host, and TV chef Jacques Pepin was to be honored.

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Marika is changing direction, with a new name and different management.

The restaurant, whose more than 300 seats make it one of the largest on the Upper West Side, will hence be called Compass.

Gone are Stuart and Marika Somerstein, who will concentrate on the Water’s Edge restaurant on the banks of Queens. Donny Evans, who opened the eatery with the Somersteins, will remain. Chef Neil Annis, formerly of Lespinasse, will oversee the new menu.