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The 24-valve overhead system is a "low-maintenance"
design. Routine adjustments are no longer
necessary, however, measurement should still take
place when trouble-shooting performance problems,
or upon completion of a repair that includes removal
and installation of the valve train components or
injectors.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471-B,
rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to
12:00 o'clock position.
(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are
loose, continue to next step.
(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers
are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE
1-2-4 / EXHAUST 1-3-5. Measure the valve lash by
inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm
socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE
LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If
the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/
resetting is not necessary. If measurement
finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting
is required.
VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART
0.152 mm ( 0.006 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MAX.
0.762 mm (0.030 in.)
MAX.
note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse
affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or
level of engine noise.
(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
² INTAKE 0.254 mm (0.010 in.)
² EXHAUST 0.508 mm (0.020 in.) Tighten the
lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) and re-check the valve
lash.
(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaft one revolution (360°) to align the
damper TDC mark to the 12 o'clock position.
(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE
3-5-6 / EXHAUST 2-4-6. Use the same method as
above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,
and adjust those that are found to be outside of
the limits.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the battery negative cables.

here is the truth if the lifter is gone no adjustments can be done they will have to be changed it will not do serious harm it will just go tick tick louder and louder the lifter can do this beacuse of to things ,,,its worn out or the oil pump is not pumping the oil up right ,,,,,,

In engines with rocker arm valve systems, the procedure I'm familiar with is to remove a rocker arm cover, and (one at a time!) while the engine is running, slowly back off the rocker arm retainer nut or bolt just until you hear the lifter tapping, then tighten it a quarter turn. If you can identify a lifter that is already tapping, tighten its rocker arm slowly until it stops tapping, then adjust it. Do not over-tighten! This can damage the engine.

Listen carefully to how the engine sounds; if it starts to stumble when you tighten a loose rocker arm, you've gone too far. If you cannot get the engine to run well without tapping, you may have too much wear in the valve train and may be due for a head overhaul, or you don't have adequate oil pressure in the lifters in question.
Repeat until all rocker arms are done. Replace the rocker arm cover using a new gasket, then (in a V-engine), repeat the procedure on the other side of the engine.

Wearing safety goggles, or better yet, a transparent face shield, is strongly recommended. Sometimes oil will squirt out a considerable distance from the lifter side of the rocker arm during adjustment, and the direction is not readily predictable.

You have to pull the rear (muffler end) cover, rear muffler protector (the metal vent), the rear handle, the lower end plate, and the fiber muffler protector so you have access to the head cover. Remove the head cover, disconnecting the breather tube as you do it.
Turn the engine (using pull handle) to top dead center compression (both valves fully closed). Use feeler gauge to check the valve clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem.
Intake should be .15mm +/- .02mm (.006in +/- .001)
Exhaust should be .20mm +/- .02mm (.008in +/- .001)
Adjust as needed by loosening the rocker arm pivot locking nut and adjusting the rocker arm pivot. Tighten the locking nut once set.
Put it all back together. :)

Hi, without a rocker arm, the valve would stay closed. As the lash adjusters may have been loose for a while, check the camshaft lobes for wear as well as the rockers themselves. Look around for other stuff the rocker may have damaged while bouncing around in the valve cover. Replace all of the lash adjusters, making sure to put the rockers back on their original valves. Not sure you need to pull the heads. Why don't you put it back together and run a compression test. If compression is good, valves are probably fine. Let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

Turn the engine OFF . Remove the air cleaner and housing, along with the hot air and cold air intake ducts.

CAUTION
Components will be hot. The engine head, block and radiator will be very hot.

Remove any other hoses, cables, or wires attached to the valve cover. The valve cover (or cylinder head cover) is the domed steel item with the oil filler in it.

Remove the small nuts holding the valve cover, then lift the cover off. Retrieve the rubber gasket and put it aside; it can be reused if not damaged or crushed out of shape. Beware of hot oil dripping from the inside of the cover.

Use a large wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt to turn the engine clockwise until the timing mark on the pulley to 0 on the scale. Turning the engine will be easier if the spark plugs are removed, but this is not required.

CAUTION
Do not attempt to align the engine by using the ignition switch to turn the engine. Doing will splash hot oil onto everything in the area, including you.

Check that the rockers on No.1 cylinder are loose and the rockers on No.4 are under tension. (No.1 is closest to the radiator; No. 4 is closest to the firewall.) If this is true, the engine is aligned with No.1 piston at top dead center. If it is not true, turn the engine one full revolution clockwise and realign the timing mark at zero; recheck the rockers.

Adjust the clearance 0.008 in. (0.20mm) intake and 0.012 in. (0.30mm) exhaust. Insert a feeler gauge and check for proper clearance between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of the rocker arm on the No. 1 intake valve. To adjust, loosen the locknut on the end of the rocker arm and turn the adjusting screw until the clearance is correct. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance; there should be a slight drag felt when the feeler gauge is pulled through the gap. Repeat the procedure for No 1 exhaust, No 2 intake and No. 3 exhaust.

Fig. Fig. 3: Adjust the clearance of half the valves, do the arrowed ones first

Fig. Fig. 4: Use a gauge to measure the distance between the stem and the rocker arm

Fig. Fig. 5: Hold the adjusting screw in position, then tighten the locknut

Turn the crankshaft pulley one full rotation clockwise until the marks align at 0 and for the remaining valves.

Fig. Fig. 6: Adjust the second set of valves the same as the first

Clean the valve cover thoroughly with a lint-free rag. Wipe any oil off the cylinder head edges in the area of the valve cover gasket.

Fit the gasket into the valve cover, making sure it is not crimped or twisted. If the half-moon rubber plugs came out of the valve cover, clean them and apply sealant to the part of the plug contacting the valve cover; install the half-moon plug.

The use of sealants on the valve cover gasket is not recommended.

Install the valve cover onto the head. Make certain is squarely seated and not pinching any adjacent wires or cables.

Install the valve cover retaining nuts. Tighten them to 43-60 inch lbs. (5-7 Nm) This is little more than finger-tight; overtightening will deform the cover and cause leaks.

Connect the lines, hoses and cables which were removed for access. Make certain electrical and ignition wires are firmly held by their clips or brackets.

Install the air cleaner with the hoses and duct work.

If still in place, remove the wrench and socket from the crankshaft pulley.

2.0 engine* Lubricate the rocker shaft with clean engine oil and install the rockers and springs in their proper places.* Install the rocker shaft assemblies on the engine. Tighten the bolts gradually and evenly to 21-25 ft. lbs. (29-35 Nm).

2.4 engine

Fig. Rocker arm shafts and components-2.4L engine

* Fit the rocker shaft springs from above and position them so that
they are at right angles to the plug side. Install the rocker springs
before installing the exhaust side rocker shaft and rocker arm assembly.

A rocker arm is the arm that sits on top of the valve stem and connects to the push rods 'the push rods sit on the cam so when engine is running, the push rods go up and down in a timed sequence and with the rocker arms, open and close the inlet and exhaust valves. the rocker arm is located inside the valve(rocker)cover .If the rocker arm gets loose or comes out.Check the nuts on the shaft which holds the rocker arms.either the shaft or nuts are got loose.They need to be tightened.Don't make it too tight or too loose. Too tight,and they don't flutter right. Too loose,and they allow the rocker arms to wiggle out of whack. Other possibility can be something is broken, bent, collapsed, or out of adjustment.Thanks. you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

they are not adjustable. remove the valve cover and see if any of the rocker arms move up and down more than the other, than remove the rocker arm to see if there is a little bullet looking piece. try to squeeze it with your fingers. if it does than replace it. hope this helps.