'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'Best thing I ever overheard"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"Brian Morgan, 1982

using Titanium is nuts unless people can see it and admire your excellent tastes and previously deep pockets.

Wisdom! I've had competitors that needed your consulting services - you can talk them out of the hundreds of dollars of titanium fasteners "aloft" in the rig of their 10,000 lb sailboats so I can find them a more appropriate home on my pick up!

Welds are indeed looking improved!

« Last Edit: May 16, 2018, 20:10:27 by jpmobius »

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Mobius

On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

If proboltusa.com sold the right length 10mm bolts for my engine mounts I would be using them. Lol.

Valves in! Getting closer. Yes they were leak tested, poured a small amount of acetone in the ports, none leaked out. I thought I would have to lap them, but the machine shop that did the seats did it for me, which I thought was nice of them.

Oh by the way, notice the oil stain lines on the head inside the reservoirs? Bike only had a side stand... haha

I thought I would have to lap them, but the machine shop that did the seats did it for me, which I thought was nice of them.

Lapping valves is a lot less common these days. Machining and tooling is more precise than it used to be, so if the valves had to be lapped at all, that would be unusual. Not necessarily bad, but it should raise eyebrows.

Lapping valves is a lot less common these days. Machining and tooling is more precise than it used to be, so if the valves had to be lapped at all, that would be unusual. Not necessarily bad, but it should raise eyebrows.

oh, well that makes sense then. I didn't lap them because I forgot my lapping compount at the shop and engine is at home - I used some prussian blue, they came out perfect, so I did the leak test... they were perfect. I assumed he lapped them but what you said makes more sense

On most modern engines you can't lap valves as the hardening isn't deep enough and will wear off to softer material underneatheAs for cam chain tensioner, yes, you can use a long bar from top. Make sure to radius end so it fits into cup on bottom. Loosen adjuster with bar in place and see if it moves up any further.

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'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'Best thing I ever overheard"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"Brian Morgan, 1982

Ran into a snag. In my haste and inexperience, I overlooked the fact that I would need the updated top tensioner hold down for the new tensioners. Amazed that NONE of the people that sell this part make it clear that if you are updating this on an old motor you NEED To source the correct holder and probably a rubber bumper too. That item should be here Wednesday and I can get to buttoning up the motor.

Frame fabrication is done, so I painted it satin black with VHT rollbar and chassis paint. I would have loved to get it powdercoated but let's not go there... only one place has a cabinet big enough to sandblast this frame and they want $400 to do the work. no!

Yea I dont want it to be a trailer queen but I do want it to look proper. I don't like a rat bike look. As it is I am way behind on the project and dont have time to devote to painting the tank, so its gonna be looking like a rat bike for some time. I did check all my valve and piston clearances today. .060 on the intake and .070 on the exhaust. I have a feeling that's cutting it close to acceptable but it will do for me, running a 50/50 mix of pump and race gas, and the lighter pistons shouldn't stretch as much. Also did a engine mock up because I needed some morale and so I put a couple coats of "looking at it" on the engine as the doghouse guys would say

Looks good, but also noticable wear on the paint and I'm ok with that. When I show up to the bike show next Tuesday it wont look like i just built it. LOL