Route Description

In the huts of Ibon de Ip we follow to left bordering the lake for the north side across grassy hills. Before the end of the lake we leave the Ibon de Ip and we turn to north side across a channel of grass in direction to the zone between the peaks Pala de Ip (left) and Punta Escarra (right). After the grass we reach the inconvenient zone of big stones in the bottom of Punta Escarra. We must search in left side the cairns to a little path between the rocks. In a zig-zag we reach the real bottom of the rocky wall (2625m, 1h 45min).
With great atention we search the cairn that indicate the correct chimney of access to the mountain. It's a little chimney from left to right of grade II to a wide cornise (in this place you can see the parabolts to the rope). We turn to left for the cornise to reach the North face of the mountain. After a new chimney (grade II-) we reach a narrow cornise (new parabolts for the rope). We turn to right searching the little cairns to climb the great plates of rock ("lajas"), very impressive but easy (grade I+). After a new change of direction to left (yes, is confuse) we climb the last section of grade I among the rocks to reach the summit (2760m, 2h30min). Enjoy the marvel and narrow summit!

In the descent in summer you can to use the rope for a short rappel in the last chimney of grade II (10 meters). In winter generally is neccessary the use of the rope in the 2 chimneys in the ascent and the last meters are exposed without parabolts to tie the rope.

Essential Gear

Winter: it's not a good idea the climb with ice or snow in the cornises, but the use of crampons and ice-axe is neccessary.

For the less experienced mountaineers is a good idea the use of the rope and harnes (it's not very difficult but it's impressive). In winter it's imprescindible the use of the rope in the chimneys with snow.

Images

"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."
--M. Cartmill