General Blog

Raymond Chan Wine Reviews ‘Winery of the Year’ 2017 – Vidal Estate

04-Dec-2017

The ‘Winery of the Year’ award is my way of recognising the
best performing wine producer who has submitted wines to Raymond Chan Wine
Reviews for independent assessment in ‘Feature Reviews’ over the year from the
start of December the previous year to the end of November in the current
year. The criteria for the award are
based on the qualities and significance of the wines in terms of excellence as
seen in my descriptions and ratings, as well as how the wines have appealed to
me on a subjective and hedonistic level as a wine enthusiast and consumer. In addition, the award can take into account
innovation and style, and the progress the producer has made in making fine New
Zealand wine, as well as the setting of standards for this country’s
industry. Taking these factors into
account, I presume that readers who follow Raymond Chan Wine Reviews will find
great enjoyment in the wines made by the ‘Winery of the Year’ too. The nominated wine producer is sent a
commemorative engraved brass plaque.

Winery of the Year – Vidal Estate

For 2017, the Raymond Chan Wine Reviews ‘Winery of the Year’
is awarded to Vidal Estate in Hastings, Hawke’s Bay. The wines from this winery are leaders in the
contemporary expressions of Chardonnay, the Bordeaux varieties and Syrah in New
Zealand. The bottlings of these wines
under the flagship ‘Legacy’ tier are stunning, and they are supported by very
strong and high quality in the premium ‘Reserve’ wines as well as the very
respectable ‘Estate’ wines which offer great value. Few wine producers match the quality and
consistency of these varieties across the three ranges as seen at Vidal Estate.

Vidal Estate is part of the Villa Maria Estate wine group,
acquired by Sir George Fistonich in 1976, continuing a history that began with
the arrival of founder Anthony Joseph Vidal in New Zealand from Spain in
1888. The vineyard and winery, run by Vidal
descendants had a strong reputation until a period of overseas shareholding by
Seppelt in 1972. But under the Villa
Maria it has gradually progressed and flourished, now being one of the major
contributors to the Villa Maria group’s success and dominance on the wine
judging circuit.

Interestingly, each of the wineries under the Villa Maria
group has retained its own identity. The
differentiation of style and character of the Villa Maria, Vidal Estate, Esk
Valley and Te Awa wines has been crucial to the success of the umbrella
company. The unique character and culture
behind each of these brands is recognised and appreciated by the knowledgeable
consumer, and there are many ways this has been retained and enhanced by the
winemaking and marketing. Arguably, most
important is the independence and autonomy in the viticultural and winemaking
decisions of each winery team. The final
judgements on picking and selection of fruit are made by each producer. Each of the labels has dedicated blocks and
vineyards. Vinification options are
chosen independently of the other winemakers, and indeed, Villa Maria, Vidal
Estate, Esk Valley and Te Awa have their own wineries.

However, all parties are closely connected, with an enormous
amount of sharing of experiences and information. The winery teams from each of these wineries
(and other Villa Maria group brands) come together regularly for tasting and
blending sessions. The overseeing of all
the winemaking activities is by group chief winemaker Nick Picone, and this is
mirrored by Oliver Powrie who leads the viticultural teams working in all of
the Villa Maria group’s vineyards. The
sharing of resources is a very strong asset for all involved. The independence as well as the close
co-operation will continue when all of the winemaking will be conducted at one
‘super winery site’ at the Te Awa location, due for completion in time for
vintage next year. Villa Maria, Vidal
Estate, Esk Valley and Te Awa will all have their separate processing
facilities, personalised to make wines in their individual styles.

The Vidal Estate Wines

The quality of the Vidal Estate wines has never been better,
and much can be attributed to the passion and determination of winemaker Hugh
Crichton, with the company since 2004, and as winemaker since 2006. Hugh changed his profession from merchant banker
to winemaker with experience at Chateau Soutard in St Emilion and Donnafugata
in Italy, as well as at Chard Farm in Central Otago and Millton Vineyard in
Gisborne. These wine stages, along with
tasting many of the world’s great wines has led to his position and winemaking
philosophy now. Hugh has as his
assistant, Oliver Styles, originally a writer for Decanter magazine in the U.K.
coming to New Zealand in 2009. Between
the two of them, they direct the style of the Vidal Estate wines.

Hugh Crichton has guided the style development of the Vidal
Estate wines for over a decade. He would
be the first to acknowledge the quality and character of the wines stem from
the vineyards. For the ‘Legacy’
Chardonnay wines, the fruit comes from the ‘Keltern’, ‘Lyons’ and ‘Davies’
Ohiti vineyards. The ‘Legacy’
Bordeaux-varietal and Syrah wines come from the Villa Maria group Gimblett
Gravels and ‘Terra Vitae’ vineyards, these being the ‘Ngakirikiri’, ‘Omahu
Gravels’, ‘Twyford Gravels’ and ‘Vidal’ sites.
The ‘Omahu Gravels’ vineyard plays a significant role with the
Syrah. The Vidal Estate wines
consistently use the same blocks within these vineyards, and this contributes
to their continued expression, style and quality apparent over successive
vintages.

The ‘Legacy’ Chardonnay wines are highly regarded for their
complex reductive style which possesses texture and concentration. The expression of the gunflint character
varies with the season. Balance is the
key. My ‘Feature Reviews’ of the
Chardonnay wines from Vidal over the last year have revealed sensational
wines. The ‘Super-Legacy’ Anthony Joseph
Vidal 1888 Chardonnay earned a perfect 20.0/20 from me. My score for the ‘Legacy’ Chardonnay 2016 was
19.5-/20. This was supported by scores
of 18.0/020 for the 2016 ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay, and 18.0-/20 for the ‘Reserve’
Chardonnay 2015. Tasted, but not as
‘Feature Reviews’ were the ‘Legacy’ Chardonnay 2015 and 2014, both at 19.5/20.

The Vidal ‘Legacy’ Bordeaux-varietal wines are noted for
their elegance, fruit purity and balanced oak complexities when compared with
the other Villa Maria group top reds. I
certainly find the oaking a feature and distinctive, and the concentration immaculate. They possess the classic Gimblett Gravels
‘iron-earth’ character to me. I rated as
‘Feature Reviews’ the ‘Legacy’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2013 at 19.5/20. This was backed by the ‘Reserve’
Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 at 18.5/20.

For ‘Feature Reviews’ this year, I tasted the ‘Reserve’
Syrah at 18.5/20. Tasted this year, but
not as ‘Feature Reviews’, were the ‘Legacy’ Syrah 2014, scored at 19.5+/20, and
the ‘Legacy’ Syrah 2013 at 19.5/20. The
Vidal Syrah wines are picked relatively early for the Villa Maria group, aiming
for freshness. I find them perfectly
ripened, without any trace of over-ripeness, and they express exemplary
varietal character melded with the Gimblett Gravels personality.

Going forward, I get the impression that Vidal Estate will
continue to develop Chardonnay to even higher levels. Hugh Crichton is unreservedly a fan of white
burgundy wines, and these are no doubt as huge inspiration for him. And I also believe that the momentum gained
with the Bordeaux-variety and Syrah wines will also continue. Vidal Estate is certainly among the top rank
for these styles now, and it will be essential for wine lovers to consider
every new release. www.vidal.co.nz

The previous winners of ‘Winery of the Year’ can be accessed
by clicking here.

Contenders for ‘Winery of the Year 2017’ and Runner-Up

The selection process for ‘Winery of the Year’ is one of the
more difficult decisions I make for Raymond Chan Wine Reviews, but it is also
one of the most enjoyable. The task of
looking back at the best wines I have tasted over the year just gone is highly
rewarding for me. It shows the
ever-growing number of producers making superb wines, which reflects the
maturity and confidence of the industry.
We have been blessed with a run of excellent vintages recently, and the
wines from them are still available. 2017
was a far more challenging season, with cooler weather during growth, and rains
during harvest. Yet, I have seen many
wines that are, or will be outstanding.
This is surely a sign of the extremely high standards our winegrowers
work to.

Here, I highlight contenders for the 2016 ‘Winery of the Year’
title. Keep in mind only producers who
submit their wines for ‘Feature Review’ are eligible. I run through the contenders from north to
south, and conclude with my runner-up to Vidal Estate.

From the Auckland and Northland regions, Obsidian Vineyard on Waiheke Island had
wonderful ‘Reserve Syrahs from 2015 and 2014, plus ‘The Mayor’ and ‘The
Obsidian’ Bordeaux-varieties from 2013.
These are consistently and thoughtfully made.

Millton Vineyards
is the perennial over-achiever in Gisborne.
The 2015 ‘Clos de Ste Anne’ releases were more even and consistent than
ever, though Chenin Blanc did not make the grade. These flagship wines were well-supported by
the 2016 ‘Opou’ Chardonnay and 2015 ‘Riverpoint’ Gewurztraminer and
Viognier.

Hawke’s Bay wineries excelled this year. Up for consideration was Clearview Estate with its stunning, over-the-top 2015 ‘Endeavour’
Chardonnay, supported by the 2016 and 2015 ‘Reserve’ Chardonnays and Syrahs,
plus a wonderful array of 2015 ‘Reserve’ reds comprising Malbec, Cabernet
Franc, ‘Old Olive Block’ and ‘Enigma’. Craggy Range with the 2015 ‘Prestige
Collection’ ‘Aroha’ Te Muna Pinot Noir, ’Sophia’ Merlot-based wine and ‘Le Sol’
Syrah make their mark too. Mission Estate joined the top ranks
with their ‘Jewelstone’ Chardonnay 2016, Pinot Noir 2015 and ‘Antoine’
2014. The 2014 ‘Reserve’ Merlot and
Cabernet/Merlot are also 5-star level. As
always, the Sacred Hill ‘Special
Selection’ wines are impressive. The
2016 ‘Wine Thief’ and ‘Riflemans’ Chardonnays are complemented by the 2015
‘Deerstalkers’ Syrah, ‘Brokenstone’ Merlot-based and ‘Helmsman’ Cabernet –based
blends. Squawking Magpie must be included as a contender for the brilliant,
ageworthy 2013 ‘Platinum’ Merlot, Cabernets and Syrah. Tony
Bish Wines is one of the country’s Chardonnay specialists, and the 2016s
are gorgeous, providing a remarkable range comprising ‘Fat & Sassy’,
‘Heartwood’, ‘Golden Egg’ and ‘Skeetfield’.
Trinity Hill is also a strong
contender, especially with the sensational 2015 ‘Homage’ Syrah along with the
‘Black Label’ Gimblett Gravels 2016 Chardonnay, Tempranillo and Syrah, plus
2015 ‘The Gimblett’ and Syrah. Although
Auckland-based, Villa Maria offered
their ‘Library Release’ reds: the Merlot/Cabernet 2010, Cabernet Merlot 2009
and superb Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, made from Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay
fruit, so this company is listed here.

Martinborough is another region with a wealth of top and
iconic producers. Ata Rangi submits only outstanding wines, this year being the 2016
‘Craighall’ Chardonnay, and 2015 ‘Crimson’ and Martinborough Pinot Noirs, the
latter wine being one of my top 3 Pinot Noirs reviewed. Dry
River is forging ahead, tweaking their styles to show even greater elegance
and finesse, as can be seen in the 2017 ‘Craighall Selection’ Riesling, 2016
‘Lovat’ Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay, and 2015 ‘Craighall’ Tempranillo. Yet again, Larry McKenna at Escarpment Vineyard had great wines, in
his 2015 Martinborough, ‘Kiwa’, ‘Te Rehua’ and ‘Kupe’ Pinot Noirs. These bottlings are seriously complex. Under Foley Family ownership, Martinborough Vineyard is
flourishing. I rated the ‘Te Tera’ Pinot
Noirs 2016 and 2015, the ‘Home Block’ Chardonnay 2015, ‘Home Block’ Pinot Noir
2014 and ‘Marie Zelie’ Pinot Noir all at 5-stars. And likewise for the ever-consistent Palliser Estate, as can be seen in the
Methode Traditionnelle 2014, Rosé
and Riesling from 2017, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, ‘Pencarrow’ Pinot Noir and
Noble Riesling from 2016.

Our largest
winegrowing region, Marlborough, has its share of top winegrowers. The Dog
Point wines make superb wines at the forefront of complexity, as can be
tasted in the 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, and 2015 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Fromm
Winery is exerting its prominence again.
The ‘La Strada’ Chardonnay 2016 and ‘Fromm Vineyard’ Syrah 2015 are very
smart, but their 2015 Pinot Noir releases, the ‘Cuvee H’ and single vineyard
‘Churton’, ‘Quarters’, ‘Clayvin’ and ‘Fromm’ bottlings are deeply
thought-provoking. Jules Taylor has burst on the scene with her 2016 Sauvignon Blanc,
sensational ‘OTQ’ Rosé
2017, this my best-ever rosé
reviewed, and the ‘OTQ’ 2016 Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Spy
Valley is also a producer than cannot be ignored. The regular ‘estate’ 2016 Sauvignon Blanc and
Pinot Gris are 5-stars for me. But the
‘Envoy’ wines go up another level, the 2016 Dry Riesling, Pinot Gris and
Gewurztraminer, 2015 Sauvignon Blanc and ‘Outpost’ Pinot Noir 2014 just
inspirational for their interest. For
sheer finesse and elegance, one cannot go past Te Whare Ra, with their 2016 Sauvignon Blanc, ‘SV5182’ Dry Riesling
and Pinot Gris, and 2015 Pinot Noir.
Simply stunningly beautiful.

From North Canterbury, Greystone
is one of the strongest contenders for‘Winery of the Year’. The roll-call of top wines is astounding:
2017 Riesling and Pinot Gris, 2016 Barrel-Fermented Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris
and ‘Sand Dollar’ Pinot Gris, ‘Sea Star’ Riesling and the stupendous 2015
‘Erin’s’ Chardonnay and ‘The Brothers’ Pinot Noir. These are matched by the offerings from Pegasus Bay, masters of meeting the
market with the 2016 Gewurztraminer and ‘Encore’ Noble Riesling, 2015 ‘Bel
Canto’ Riesling, Sauvignon/Semillon, Riesling and Chardonnay, Pinot Noirs 2014
and 2013, and ‘Aged Release’ Riesling and Pinot Noir from 2007.

And from the spectacular region of Central Otago, Gibbston Valley put their hand up with
their 2016 Pinot Noirs, the ‘GV Collection’, ‘China Terrace’ and ‘School House’
single vineyard wines from Bendigo, and the ‘Glenlee’ and ‘Le Maitre’ from
Gibbston. These bottlings have
stature. Keep an eye on Two Paddocks. Their three sub-regional 2015 Pinot Noirs,
the ‘First Paddock’ Gibbston, ‘Last Chance’ Earnscleugh’ and ‘Fusilier’
Bannockburn are delicious, but are a portent of what’s to come. And from the team of Grant Taylor and Jen
Parr at Valli Vineyards has come the
2017 Waitaki Riesling and 2015 Waitaki Late Harvest Riesling, 2016 Pinot Gris,
and superlative 2016 sub-regional Pinot Noirs from Gibbston, Bannockburn,
Waitaki and Bendigo. These are great and
fantastic wines indeed from my 2016 ‘Winery of the Year’.

As can be seen, the list of contenders for this year’s
‘Winery of the Year’ is long with great producers and many sensational
wines. Hawke’s Bay as a region stood out
with the sheer number of top offerings.
My runner-up to Vidal Estate as 2017 ‘Winery of the Year’ is Clearview Estate in Te Awanga. Proprietors Tim Turvey and Helma van den
Berg, and winemakers Matt Kirby and Rob Bregman have recently shown a significant
step-up in vitality and enthusiasm, with a corresponding lift in style and
quality of the wines. The wines were
already excellent, with an enviable track record, but it is the new energy in
the business and the sharper and more detailed winemaking edge that is making a
wonderful difference.

Other Outstanding Producers of Note

Many other winegrowers and producers have made their mark on
me through the past year. I must mention
the followeing, as they are making noteworthy wines. Again I bring them to your attention, going
geographically from north to south, and in alphabetical order.

The SOHO wines
from Waiheke Island must be the jewel in the crown for Rachael Carter.

From Hawke’s Bay, there have been credible releases from Ant Mackenzie Wines, Ant now going out
on his own, the ‘Theory & Practice’ and ‘Craft Farm’ wines special. Elephant
Hill, with Steve Skinner is making archetype, contemporary Hawke’s Bay
wines, the Chardonnays and Syrahs the stand-outs for me. Kidnapper
Cliffs, the flagship tier of Te Awa, under the Villa Maria group, Paritua with intentions to grow in the
New Zealand market, the ever-reliable Pask
Winery with the top ‘Declaration’ wines made under the careful eye of Kate
Radburnd (who is about to release her own label) are top level wines. Rod
McDonald Wines is one of Hawke’s Bay’s most prolific and
regionally-supportive winemakers, the ‘One Off’ and ‘Quarter Acre’ wines
particularly noteworthy.

Completing the North Island with Wairarapa producers, I have
Alexander Vineyard, a Pinot Noir
specialist (what else, in Martinborough), the up-and coming Devotus Vineyard, only with Pinot Noir
from an immaculate vineyard on the Martinborough Terrace, and Schubert with vineyards in Gladstone,
and the wines tirelessly promoted globally by Kai Schubert.

Starting with the Nelson vignoble for the South Island, I
have had a number of excellent wines from Brightwater
Vineyards.

Marlborough features Auntsfield
from the Cowley family, especially noted for the Pinot Noirs. The wines from Babich, headquartered in Auckland, but with extensive vineyards and
a modern winery in the Riverlands. The
venerable Hunter’s label continues
to excel, especially with the aromatic whites.
I’m impressed with the Rapaura
Springs and Summerhouse wines
from Spring Creek Vintners. Expert
advice has seen positive changes here. A
wine label that is making it in the big-time is Two Rivers, from Dave Clouston.
And Vavasour under Foley
Family wines is very conspicuous now for top quality.

North Canterbury is enhanced with the Black Estate wines, under the Naish family, with the determined
Nicholas Brown at the winemaking helm. On the up is Mount Brown from Catherine Keith, their wines made by Frank
Manifold. Great value wines.

And finally from Central Otago are Misha’s Vineyard, driven by the indomitable Misha and Andy Wilkinson,
marketeers extraordinaire, the wines sensitively made by Olly Masters. The Mount
Edward wines are promoted with flair by Duncan Forsyth, and immaculately
made by Anna Riederer. Central Otago
Pioneer Rudi Bauer is the biodynamic guru of Bendigo, with his fabulous Quartz Reef wines, especially in methode
traditionnelle and Pinot Noir. And I’m
loving the precise Rockburn wines
from Malcolm Francis-Rees, the Twitter social media fanatic.

The Top Wines of 2017

Here are the outstanding New Zealand wines I have tasted as
‘Feature Reviews’ during the period of start of December 2016 to end of
November 2017. The following wines are
presented according to variety or style.
On occasion where there are ties in the scoring, I have listed more than
one in that particular category. Not
every varietal or wine style merited listing.
The wines celebrate diversity and excellence throughout the country.

Wineries that are distributed by ‘Wine2Trade’, the company
that Raymond Chan Wine Reviews’ operates under, are not eligible for the
‘Winery of the Year’ award. (Click here
to see these wineries.) In way of
compensation, I will list separately my ‘Favourites of the Year from the
Wine2Trade Portfolio’ in a follow-up article. To see my 'Favourites from the Wine2Trade Portfolio' 2017, click here.