Canada: Having the world at your feet

Think Lake District, then multiply a hundredfold. Add a backdrop of glaciers, coat liberally with forests and top with mountains of Himalayan scale . . . Tim Jepson went to the Canadian Rockies and met his first disgruntled bear - on a postcard

WHAT do you do when confronted by a bear? The question was beginning to bother me. I had spent two days in the Canadian Rockies and, from everything I'd heard, a walk in the woods was the last thing I should be attempting. Disgruntled grizzlies, apparently, are wont to peel scalp from skull as you or I might peel a banana.

The idea of seeing a bear, though, let alone being attacked by one, seemed unlikely in the middle of Banff, the main town in Banff National Park. Wilderness it is not. About 50,000 visitors a day come here in summer, making it the busiest town of any national park in the world.

Yet I'd heard that a man had been mauled while walking from the railway station some years earlier. And the bookshops had shelves, and I mean shelves, of books on bear behaviour and bear attacks. One could be forgiven for becoming paranoid.

"Nonsense, nonsense," said the genial owner of my guesthouse. "I've not heard of an attack for years."

"No, there's been no attack on hikers for two years," confirmed a warden at the park centre, though I couldn't help but notice the daily bear sightings posted on the wall behind her.

"But you must be careful," she added, "especially if you're camping. They love smells, especially food, but also things like perfume and sex." Sex? Blimey. A bear crashing into your tent: now there would be a coitus interruptus to remember.

In truth, while Banff has no shortage of elk - they nibble contentedly on suburban lawns - the only bears you're likely to meet locally are on postcards. With this happy thought in mind I walked out of town to visit the Cave and Basin Hot Springs, a pair of sulphurous pools discovered by three railway workers in 1883. Five years later they became the germ of the Rocky Mountains Park, Banff's forerunner and Canada's first national park.

Its creation wasn't entirely philanthropic. The Canadian Pacific Railway, recently completed at great expense, desperately needed passengers. The Rockies were seen as its salvation. "If we can't export the scenery," said William Van Horne, the railway's president, "we'll import the tourists."

This he did, building a series of giant hotels in the wilderness to house them, of which the most famous was the 828-room Banff Springs, then the world's largest hotel and still - inexplicably - one of Banff's major attractions.

I made the obligatory visit, though it struck me as crazy to be doing so with some of the world's greatest scenery on my doorstep. Though visitors pour into Banff, there's almost nothing to see. The town's for sleeping, stocking up and moving on. And the place everyone moves on to is the famously grand and beautiful Lake Louise.

What is less known is that there is a still more beautiful ensemble a few miles south. Moraine Lake is smaller than Lake Louise but I found its more intimate blend of key Rockies ingredients - wood, water, snow and rock - more satisfying. It was also the place I'd chosen for my first potential one-on-one with the grizzlies.

Walking in the parks is easy: the paths are well-worn and well-marked - you barely need a map - and efficient staff at park centres fill you in on all the various permutations (Banff alone has 1,000 miles of trails). On busier paths you will almost always be safe.

You should still be prepared, however. I set off with my whistle - bears are most likely to attack if surprised, so you let them know you are coming. I also rehearsed a little speech in the event of an unwanted tryst - apparently the best way to calm a bear is to talk to it quietly.

In the event I never had to test my eloquence, or my sprinting or tree-climbing skills. In all I spent a week walking near Moraine Lake and other parts of the park. I saw a bear only once - in a bear jam.

This occurs when motorists see a bear, screech to a halt and leave their cars strewn across the highway as they pursue the hapless animal, camcorders at the ready. The bear jam is not for wilderness purists. For me and my scalp, however, it was the perfect encounter.

When you're there

AccessRegular Greyhound and Brewster buses run daily to Banff and Lake Louise from Calgary, Calgary airport and Vancouver.

AccommodationBanff town has numerous motels and b & bs, but for a treat choose between the modern splendour of the Rimrock Resort (762 3356; doubles from £100) or the traditional luxury of the Banff Springs (762 2211; doubles from £110). The YWCA (762 3560) has the cheapest central rooms (doubles with bathroom from £20). The youth hostel (762 4122) is about two miles out of town near the main park campsite (£10).

First choice near Lake Louise is Moraine Lake Lodge (summer 522 3733/winter 604 985 7456; doubles from £120), a collection of architect-designed log cabins with vast beds, open fires and lake views. Ch?teau Lake Louise (522 3511; doubles from £120) is a highrise hotel with eye-popping views of Lake Louise. Cheapest hotel in the resort village below the lake is the Lake Louise Inn (522 3791; doubles from £35), with 222 rooms - some are self-catering - in a five-building complex. The excellent youth hostel also has a handful of single and double rooms. Smaller hostels, campsites and a couple of lodges line the Icefields Parkway between Jasper and Lake Louise.

EatingIn Banff try the Bistro, corner of Wolf and Bear (762 8900), an intimate hideaway with excellent "nouvelle-frontier" food, or Melissa's, 218 Lynx Street (762 5511), set in an old log cabin with a sunny outdoor terrace and some of Alberta's best steaks. Earl's (762 4414) is a relaxed mid-range place well-suited to families. Top restaurant in Lake Louise is the dining-room of the Post Hotel (522 3989) - the bar is also a snug spot for a drink. For cheaper meals try Bill Peyto's at the youth hostel and Laggan's Mountain Bakery in the village mall for coffee and snacks.

Must doVisit Lake Louise, Moraine Lake and the Columbia Icefield. Drive, cycle or take a bus along the Icefields Parkway, a fabulous 150-mile road between Jasper and Lake Louise often described as one of the world's ultimate scenic drives.

Walk or drive to the Vermilion Lakes, just outside Banff, for the chance to see ospreys, bald eagles, beavers, elk and other fauna.

Drive the scenic Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Lake Louise.

WalksShort walks: the Johnston Canyon Trail (off the Bow Valley Parkway) to waterfalls and upland lakes (three miles); the Lake Agnes Trail (two hours) from Lake Louise to a pretty mountain lake and wooden tea-house (teas and snacks available); and the walk to the Peyto Lake Lookout (off the Icefields Parkway) to enjoy one of the Rockies' best views (40 minutes).

Day hikes: near Banff try the Bourgeau Lake Trail (five miles one way), a lovely climb to an alpine lake, or the demanding Cory-Edith Pass Trail, eight miles and 3,000 feet of ascent in unbeatable mountain terrain.

Well, 4,000 Canadians a day can't be wrong, I thought as I plunged into the gently steaming pool, not at all reassured by its name - Radium Hot Springs - nor by the allegedly therapeutic qualities of its radioactive waters.

The springs lie on the edge of Kootenay National Park, least known of the Rockies' "Big Four" parks and, for many visitors, the culmination of a tour that embraces Banff, Yoho and Lake Louise.

"What about this radium, then?" I asked an attendant, who remained apparently unaffected by repeated exposure to whatever lurked in the water. "No more radioactivity than the dial of a luminous watch," he said, with the wearied tone of one who'd answered the question a thousand times.

Natives soothed aching bones here for centuries before giving up their makeshift spa in 1890, when the site was bought by one Roland Stuart for $160. A few years later, during the creation of the park, the Canadian Government slapped a compulsory purchase order on the site - by then a flourishing resort - paying the canny Stuart $40,000 for his trouble.

Today the state still runs the pools, virtually the only human taint in a park that straddles 65 miles of the Banff-Windermere Parkway (Highway 93), a road that provides a window on the wilderness every bit as compelling as Banff's more famous Icefields Parkway.

"Fifty Switzerlands in one," was the verdict of Edward Whymper, a British mountaineer who knew a thing or two about mountains - he was the first to conquer the Matterhorn. In Kootenay he believed he had found the Rockies' ideal playground (the park has a peak named in his honour).

I could see why, for the region's appeal - tension-easing springs aside - is the sheer immediacy of the landscape. No need here to go to the mountains - the mountains come to you, crowding in on the highway in a seductive blend of forest-swathed slopes and snow-dusted peaks.

But you shouldn't stay in the car. Kootenay offers a panoply of easy strolls and hikes. My favourite was the Paint Pots Trail, through dank, forested glades to a cluster of strangely coloured lakes. Native tribes, for whom the atmospheric spot was sacred, journeyed here from across North America to collect the pools' yellowy-orange clays. These they then baked, ground into ochre and mixed with animal fat to use as paint on faces, rocks and tepees.

I also walked to the edge of glaciers, followed paths along river-gouged canyons, crested summit ridges and explored the Vermilion Pass Burn, an area ravaged by forest fire in 1968 but now displaying nature's formidable powers of recovery. In fact, I walked like a demon over several days in Kootenay. Perhaps there was something in that water after all.

When you're there

AccessAllow 3-4 hours with stops to drive the Banff-Windermere Parkway (Highway 93). Twice-daily Greyhound buses run through the park to Radium Hot Springs from southern British Columbia (Cranbrook), Banff, Lake Louise and Calgary.

AccommodationKootenay is best visited from Banff or Lake Louise. The only park accommodation is Kootenay Park Lodge (403 762 9196), 10 rustic cottages at Vermilion Crossing on Highway 93. Radium, a rather scrappy town outside the park, has plenty of motels. There are picturesque park campsites off Highway 93 at McLeod Meadows and Marble Canyon (£6 nightly), and the much larger Redstreak site (summer 347 9567; winter 347 9615) just outside Radium (£7-£10).

EatingTake a picnic to one of Highway 93's rest areas - Wardle Creek and Dolly Varden are two of the best. The nearest restaurants are in Radium or on the Bow Valley road to Banff.

ActivitiesSwimming in Radium Hot Springs at the Aquacourt on Highway 93, a mile north of Radium (summer 9am-10.30pm, winter noon-10pm; £2.50). Mountain biking on old forestry and fire-roads.

THERE is more than one way to see the Rockies. In 1886 Lady Agnes Macdonald, wife of the Canadian prime minister, rode through Yoho National Park on the cowcatcher of a train, skirts billowing, remarking later that her perch provided "a delightful opportunity for a new sensation". Agnes had already clocked up 700 miles on the cowcatcher, part of a symbolic transcontinental trip with her husband to celebrate the opening of the Canadian Pacific Railway (the prime minister managed just 25).

As with Banff, the railway was the making of Yoho, which takes its name from a native word for "wonder" - testimony to the splendour of the scenery. Before the line was built, the area was a mountain fastness. Sceptics doubted a railway could be built. Sandford Fleming, the CPR's chief surveyor, claimed the route was impassable by foot, never mind train. "I can never forget that walk," he said, after battling over Yoho's Kicking Horse Pass. "It was the worst trial I ever experienced."

But the railway opened in 1884, negotiating the steepest gradients of any public track of the time. Four years later a small reserve was created around Field, a railway construction camp (and now the park's only village). National park status arrived in 1911. Today the Trans-Canada Highway shadows the Canadian Pacific and bisects the park.

You could spend a fortnight here - the hiking, particularly around Lake O'Hara, is regarded as the Rockies' best. Mountain biking is a dream and, if you want an Agnes-like adrenaline rush, there's whitewater rafting on the Kicking Horse River.

As ever in the parks, you have no need for pre-planning or SAS-type wilderness training to enjoy yourself: simply pick one of two scenic side roads off the Trans-Canada that provide access to well-marked and well-tramped trails. One ends at Takakkaw Falls, among North America's highest road-accessible waterfalls, the other at Emerald Lake, site of a smart hotel built by the railway barons. At Emerald Lake I strolled the shore, and then tackled the Hamilton Lake Trail, a quiet if lung-busting hike. The walking was wonderful, the only real way, so they say, to see the scenery. In truth, though, I'd sooner have been with Agnes on the front of that train.

When you're there

AccessDaily Greyhound buses to Field from Calgary, Banff, Lake Louise and Vancouver. The railway is closed to regular passenger traffic: see "From here to there" (opposite) for details of special charters.

InformationPark Visitor Centre (343 6783) is just east of Field on the Trans-Canada Highway.

AccommodationYoho can be visited from Banff or Lake Louise, but Field has one hotel, the Kicking Horse Lodge (343 6303; doubles from £48) and several self-catering rooms in private homes: try the Bear's Den Guesthouse (343 6439; from £35). The smartest option is the Emerald Lake Lodge (343 6321; doubles £120-£200); more pleasantly rustic are the cosy cabins of the Cathedral Mountain Lodge & Chalets, 2.5 miles east of Field (summer 343 6442; winter 403 762 0514); doubles from £40; open mid-May to mid-Oct). The Lake O'Hara Lodge (open mid-June to Oct 1 and Feb to mid-April), magnificently situated in the mountains and accessible only by foot or shuttle bus, is an unbeatable base for an extended walking holiday: advance booking is vital (343 6418; doubles £130-£200). Out of season write to Box 55, Lake Louise, Alberta T0L 1E0.

The Whiskey Jack youth hostel, close to Takakkaw Falls, is perfectly placed for hikes in the nearby Yoho Valley (403 762 4122; dorm beds from £6; open mid-June to mid-Sept). The park's main camp ground - one of five - is the 86-site Kicking Horse, three miles east of Field (from £3).

EatingThe only restaurants are those attached to hotels. The Kicking Horse Lodge has a good cafe-restaurant for coffee, hot snacks and sandwiches (summer only); the smarter dining-rooms and lounges of the Emerald Lake Lodge offer teas, snacks and menus laden with weighty Canadian staples, such as sea-fresh salmon and Albertan steaks.

Must doStroll around Emerald Lake (three miles) or Ross Lake (one mile), two easy and pretty trails. Day hike: Twin Falls Trail provides a reasonably gentle walk with mountain, glacier and waterfall views (five miles one way). Big hike: Iceline-Whaleback-Twin Falls (16 miles). One of the Rockies' top five hikes, thanks to its majestic and varied scenery.

Cowardice can have its rewards. Here I was, sunning myself gently as I cruised the waters of Maligne Lake, eyes opening only occasionally to take in the matchless scenery and placid waters of the Rockies' largest and loveliest lake.

Had I been braver, I could have been careering down a torrent of white water in an inflatable raft. Whitewater rafting, I'd been told, was Jasper National Park's activity of choice.

What, I'd asked a beaming park warden, would I be letting myself in for on a rafting trip? "Well, whitewater's classified from one to six," came the reply.

"Class One's gentle and Class Six - well, Class Six is so close to a waterfall as makes no difference. If you don't fancy rafting there's always the cruise on Maligne Lake - there's no whitewater there."

The lake, indeed, was a picture of calm. Mountains reared on all sides and forests dropped to the shore in a blanket of green. Extraordinary to think no outsider had been here until this century. Livingstone discovered the Victoria Falls in 1851; Mary SchSffer found Maligne Lake in 1908.

Which goes a long way to explaining Jasper's appeal. Here you know you're somewhere civilisation isn't. This was further borne out when I pottered around Jasper town, a likeable place with an old frontier feel: windblown streets, wooden houses and the nocturnal howl of wolves.

Jasper is always ranked second to Banff, but it looks more as a national park should. If only it weren't for all that whitewater rafting . . .

When you're there

AccessDaily Greyhound services to Jasper from Edmonton and Vancouver; summer Brewster service from Banff and Lake Louise. Three weekly VIA Rail trains to Jasper from Winnipeg, Edmonton and Vancouver.

AccommodationTop choice is the luxurious Jasper Park Lodge (852 3301; doubles from £165), on Lac Beauvert, three miles from town. Good central motels include the Amethyst Motor Lodge (852 3394; £65) and Whistlers Inn (852 3361; from £35), or there's a choice of 70 b & bs (details from the Chamber of Commerce). Also popular are out-of-town "cabins" with self-catering facilities: try Pine Bungalows (852 3491; from £33) or Becker's Roaring River Chalets (852 3779; from £33).

Jasper International, about four miles south of town, is the largest of three local youth hostels (852 3215; members £7, non-members £9.50). Close by lies the biggest of five park campsites, the 781-site Whistlers Campground (£7-£10).

EatingThe cosy Coco's Cafe at 608 Patricia St is strewn with papers and magazines to read. For meals, make for the Jasper Pizza Place, 402 Connaught Drive; Earl's, 600 Patricia St, part of a reliable mid-range chain serving good North American food with a twist; or Papa George, a favourite with locals since 1924. For a treat, Becker's at the Jasper Park Lodge is one of Alberta's best restaurants.

When to goThe weather is most reliable in July and August, when the parks are also at their busiest. Most trails, though, are passable between June and October; seasonal hotels and sights are usually open from Victoria Day (mid-May) to Labour Day (the first Monday in September).

Car hireOperators include Avis (0990 900500), Budget (0800 181181) and Hertz (0990 996699). Two weeks' rental with Budget, picking up at Calgary airport, starts at £280 and includes unlimited mileage, collision damage waiver and personal insurance. Taxes (7 per cent) and optional theft insurance (85p daily) are extra. To hire a car you must be over 25, have a year's clean licence and own a credit card. Cars can be hired in Banff through Avis (001 403 762 3222), Budget (001 403 762 4546) and Hertz (001 403 762 2027), and through Tilden in Lake Louise (001 403 522 3870) and Jasper (001 403 852 4972).

CamperhomesPrices for a "compact" model camperhome (two adults and two children) from the Canadian specialist Travelpack (0990 747101) during August start at £476 weekly; £54 for each extra night. Pick-up is in Calgary.

Transcontinental VIA Rail trains run through Jasper National Park. The more famous southerly rail route through the Rockies via Calgary, Banff and Yoho is served by Rocky Mountain Railtours: UK agents for both are Leisurail (01733 335599). Prices per person for the two-day trip from Calgary to Vancouver start at about £295 including accommodation.

Further informationCall Travel Alberta (0171 924 5050) or the Visit Canada Telecentre (0891 715000) or write to the Visit Canada Centre at 62-65 Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 5DY. Best guide books are Canada (Rough Guide, £12.99) and the British Columbia Handbook (Moon, £11.99). Best walking guide is the Canadian Rockies Trail Guide (Summerthought, £10.95), available directly or by mail order from Stanfords (0171 836 1321).

On the ground

Accommodation

Rooms fill up quickly in summer, especially in Banff, so book ahead. Tourist offices or Banff-Lake Louise Central Reservations (001 403 762 5561) can often find accommodation at short notice, the latter for a fee. Park campgrounds are first come, first served. Youth hostel places can be booked by calling 001 403 762 4122 (Banff area) or 001 403 852 3215 (Jasper).