Dark-green, shiny poblano chiles are the traditional choice for chiles rellenos. They have great flavor, but may be too spicy for some tastes. Anaheim chiles or colorful red chiles are reliably mild substitutes. You can stuff chiles with almost anything: cheese, shrimp, smoked fish, tuna and sour cream, grilled vegetables, crabmeat. You get the idea. For a larger crowd, the recipe can be doubled. For an appetizer or cocktail nibble, stuff small colorful peppers. Serve rellenos with beans and rice.

Instructions

1Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

2Char the chiles on all sides directly over a gas flame until the skin blackens and blisters, or broil directly under a hot broiler until the skin begins to pull away from the pepper. Wrap in paper towels until cool.

3Handle the peppers carefully so they do not tear. Use the paper towel to rub off the blistered skin. Leave the stems on. Make a 2-inch slit lengthwise in each chile and remove the seeds. Tuck a piece of cheese into each chile and fold the chile over to completely enclose the cheese, so it doesn’t ooze out when it melts.

4Over a small bowl, rub the oregano between your palms to bring out the flavor. Add the flour and salt and stir to combine the mixture. Spread the flour on a plate.

5In a 10-inch sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Dip each chile into the flour to coat on all sides, and brush off any excess, then dip into the egg white. Carefully set into the hot pan and cook until the cheese is melted and the chiles are golden brown on both sides. Serve with warm salsa.