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TDS:
Pro: versatile, use it anywhere, keep it forever, not too tough to build, no holes in walls, ceiling or floor
Con: not expensive but not cheap either, has more parts and requires more tools than Corner Stands, not a difficult project but requires basic competence with tools (and requires basic tools)

Corner Stands:
Pro: super fast and easy to build, cheap, goes together with hammer and nails & no holes in walls, ceiling or floor, takes up a lot less space in the room than a TDS
Con: not as versatile - has to span diagonal corners and it only fits the space the pipe was cut for (of course you could re-cut it for a smaller space and you could always re-use the same pipe for a TDS)

Timberrr -- I'm having a bit of a problem visualizing what you're saying, even after that drawing. Is this essentially a pressure rod, or is the pipe hanging *in* the stand? What keeps it from rolling out if so? And what keeps your stand bit from just falling over for that matter?

Timberrr -- I'm having a bit of a problem visualizing what you're saying, even after that drawing. Is this essentially a pressure rod, or is the pipe hanging *in* the stand? What keeps it from rolling out if so? And what keeps your stand bit from just falling over for that matter?

Wow, that's a lot of questions for a guy from Florida...

Picture it like this:
1st - two 4' 2x4s laying together lengthwise with ends flush, spin one of them so they make an 'L' and nail them together.
2nd - nest a third 4' 2x4 in the crux of the 'L' (so it forms a simple, solid block), don't nail it yet.
3rd - slide that 3rd 2x4 (the loose one) down about five or six inches and nail it in place. Slide it enough to clear any baseboard or trim you may have. If you don't have any baseboard, slide it about 3".

You'll need to do all that twice, one unit for each corner (diagonally opposed corners in the room)

4th - set each unit so the outside corner of the 'L' (that is the 'L' from step 1) nests snugly in the corner of the room with the single leg (from step 3) on the floor and the 'L' pointing up.
5th - the end of the diagonal pipe will nest in the inside corner of the 'L' and rest on the top surface of the leg. It shouldn't be able to move around any more than a wiggle.
Since it can't be compressed, the length of the pipe keeps the corner units pinned in the corner.

As long as you can drill a hole and put a nut on a bolt, you can make a turtledog stand. If you can't do those things, well, I don't know what to say to that.
DO a search for turtledog and you'll find the massive thread that goes over their construction, as well as the 200+ stands that members have made.

Picture it like this:
1st - two 4' 2x4s laying together lengthwise with ends flush, spin one of them so they make an 'L' and nail them together.
2nd - nest a third 4' 2x4 in the crux of the 'L' (so it forms a simple, solid block), don't nail it yet.
3rd - slide that 3rd 2x4 (the loose one) down about five or six inches and nail it in place. Slide it enough to clear any baseboard or trim you may have. If you don't have any baseboard, slide it about 3".

You'll need to do all that twice, one unit for each corner (diagonally opposed corners in the room)

4th - set each unit so the outside corner of the 'L' (that is the 'L' from step 1) nests snugly in the corner of the room with the single leg (from step 3) on the floor and the 'L' pointing up.
5th - the end of the diagonal pipe will nest in the inside corner of the 'L' and rest on the top surface of the leg. It shouldn't be able to move around any more than a wiggle.
Since it can't be compressed, the length of the pipe keeps the corner units pinned in the corner.

Hope that helps.

lol... the fact that I'm also in Florida is why I'm probably not understanding XD

Here's a quick sketch I did to see if I'm understanding you right. The same thing would happen on the other side? I think the problem I'm having is, I can't see the pipe not rolling off one side, but if I turn it so there's a little 'cubby' for the pipe to sit in, there's not enough room for it to sit diagonally... only horizontal, which wouldn't give you room to lay?

A stand is two columns and a beam. Wood is best for what you want to do because all it takes to build (and tear it down some day) is a framing hammer (16 oz.) and some 10 p sinkers. The sinkers will need to be toenailed after driven through two pieces of 2x material.

You could make columns of toothpicks if the load was perfectly distributed. But it usually is not so you'll need 2x4s, which are cheap. You'll need two pieces 80" each + the width of the beam.

I'd use at least a 2x8 nominal dimension for the beam.

The problem with a diagonal beam is getting it in the room opposite the door. But two pieces can be hauled in there easy enough. You'll want two pieces that will span the diagonal + 2 feet each of lap for when you sister them later. A 14' diagonal will require two 10' 2x8s, for instance. Better to have too much lap than not enough. The nails will not sheer but the wood might split out.

Plan to have padding where the structure jams into the corners to please your landlord and roommate. The padding will also provide stability as it bites into the 90* angle of the walls.

Build it in the room in two sections, nailing the columns perpendicular to the beam pieces, placing the column on the side of the beam that will be in line with the lap coming from the other side.

Raise them to the corners and nail the beam lap together.

Stuff more padding as needed between wall and stand -- enough that the stand will not move.

.

Mike

Learn to survive and thrive in any situation, for you never know what might happen. Love family and friends passionately. Suffer no fool. Know your purpose in life and follow it with all your heart.

The problem with using a TD stand in this room is the distance needed. Remember, although a ridge pipe may be 10'-12', the footprint of the TD will be a large triangle and there isn't enough room in the corner to put the footprint of the TD stand into. You would end up with a ridge pipe usable length of less than 7'1/2 to 8'.

Q: Bad pipe stand?

Consider posting a new topic of what was wrong with the pipe stand that you tried. I'm curious about what didn't work, whether it was high cost or unavailable materials or the design or the building tools.

Pipe stands are more easily moved to a new location than many others. With the right padding, they are less intrusive than other materials.

Cheap, portable, or well-designed, pick two. If at all possible, I would spend more to have something that is landlord friendly and can be moved repeatedly.

Here's a quick sketch I did to see if I'm understanding you right. The same thing would happen on the other side? I think the problem I'm having is, I can't see the pipe not rolling off one side, but if I turn it so there's a little 'cubby' for the pipe to sit in, there's not enough room for it to sit diagonally... only horizontal, which wouldn't give you room to lay?

You drew it exactly!!
And yes, there's a second stand in the opposite corner.

The pipe won't roll out because it will sit (tightly) inside the corner nest of the 2x4s. I recommend using fence top rail with a joint in the center. It's cheaper, lighter and easier to handle than a large wood beam. You should be able to build this with plain ol' hammer and nails.