I use the .38 Super(.355) die for my match gun so I can use the more common 9MM (.355 dia) bullets when I want to. Why are you using these dies? Are you trying to assure reliable feeding in a tight chamber? If you are, just get a Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD). I use a Lee FCD on all my cartridges for this purpose. I did hear this weekend that the EGW .40 S&W die will make Glock brass useable. I've been throwing the Glock .40 S&W brass out since it NEVER pases the case gauge.

Bullet

November 8, 2006, 02:32 AM

I’m loading for Glocks and using once fired brass bought off the Internet (I only load these cases once and let them fly – no more chasing brass). Some of this brass has been fired in Glocks. I thought these dies would size further down the case and the extra neck or case tension will help to make sure there won’t be any bullet setback.

I already use the Lee Factory Crimp Die.

JSM

November 8, 2006, 08:02 AM

I started using the EGW U-die on .40 S&W about a a year ago. I was fighting setback and found that this die does the trick. Almost all of my .40 S&W is shot out of a Glock and I can get multiple reloads out of the case with this die. I have recently started loading .45 acp and bought the U-die for that as well. I find it works fine for that round as well.

caz223

November 8, 2006, 08:06 AM

The EGW undersize die is a great tool for increasing neck tension, resolving setback difficulties, and in concert with a redding competition seater or equivalent greatly increases your consistancy in the seating operation, making accurate ammo really easy to make.
I previously used the lee factory crimp dies, the u series die paired with the redding comp seater is far superior.
I suppose you can still use the FC die to crimp, but it isn't necessary anymore, and will undo some of the good the undersize die is doing.

JSM

November 8, 2006, 02:23 PM

I suppose you can still use the FC die to crimp, but it isn't necessary anymore, and will undo some of the good the undersize die is doing.

CAZ, how does the FC die undo some of what the U-die does? What does it undo? Do you use a crimp at all when you use the u-die?

Thanks, Scott

caz223

November 9, 2006, 04:18 PM

The function of crimp is just to remove the bell.
Neck tension holds the bullet.
Roll crimping is the exception, and that deals with revolver calibers, slow powders, and cannelures.
The factory crimp die post sizes the case.
The brass has some elasticity and springs back a little, the lead bullet does not, result=loss of neck tension.
You can't crimp a loose bullet tight.
Well, you can, but you can't do it 100 times, consistantly.
I crimp the least amount I can feel, or contact + 1/4 turn. (In most auto calibers.)
Why buy the most accurate bullets you can, then deform them during the crimping operation?

JSM

November 9, 2006, 05:36 PM

Ok, we're on the same page. +1 on just removing the bell. I learned the hard way about overcriping. Increasing neck tension and decreasing the crimp requirement to eliminate setback is why I switched to the u-die in the first place.

Jeeper

November 9, 2006, 11:14 PM

The function of crimp is just to remove the bell.
Neck tension holds the bullet.
Roll crimping is the exception, and that deals with revolver calibers, slow powders, and cannelures.
The factory crimp die post sizes the case.
The brass has some elasticity and springs back a little, the lead bullet does not, result=loss of neck tension.
You can't crimp a loose bullet tight.
Well, you can, but you can't do it 100 times, consistantly.
I crimp the least amount I can feel, or contact + 1/4 turn. (In most auto calibers.)
Why buy the most accurate bullets you can, then deform them during the crimping operation?

Exactly!!!!

I use the EGW dies on 9 and 40 and really like them.

Jayman

November 10, 2006, 05:46 PM

I use the EGW U die for 9mm, have loaded probably 40k worth of competition rounds with that die, it is awesome. A friend of mine was having some setback issues with .45acp, and after he switched to the EGW U die for that caliber, the problem went away. I don't see any downside to using a "U" die. Supposedly it works your brass harder, and while this may be true, it hasn't caused me to crack brass any faster than with the old die.