Model is designated for experienced pilots. It's quite fast and therefore needs longer landing area. Possible to take off via hand launch.
There are a pits in the wings for easy handling.

It is important to firm the print by stripes of carbon roving, saturated by runny superglue.
This procedure noticeably toughens the construction and protects the model from ripping off in case of hard landing.
In case of model cracking somewhere, it can be easily repaired by superglue or completed by newly printed part.

It is essential to save weight. Model is being butt-joint by a superglue. It is possible to adjust the surface or polish it.
Model is printed from ABS in a closed 3D printer in the inner temperature of approx 40°C by the nozzle of 0,2 mm and thickness of the wall of 1 perimeter, width of 0,25 mm and height of the gap of 0,2 mm.
The temperature of the nozzle is 265°C, temperature of the pad is 105°C. Other materials (PLA and PET-G) are way heavier (+20% ).
Walls of the fuselage are doubled of spacing approx 4 mm, the filling is Honeycomb approx 2-3 %. I use the program Slic3r. Filling can be adjusted exactly to the hundredths,
so the filling of the objects is centered and the spacing is approx 10-15 mm (depends on the need).
By this, the model's surface is solid without any denting and also very light. Thanks to that the qualiy of the surface is great.
Only the tip of the model and two parts of the tube are being printed by one wall Spiral Vase. There, the thickness of the perimeter is 0,35.
For better sticking of the print on the pad we use function Brim.
The wings are being printed the same way as the fuselage, spacing of the reinforcement approx 17-18 mm.
This way of dilution enables the change the size of the model as requested.

I use standard dowel hinge shortened on lenght on diameter 4 mm. I cut all openings (for hinges and servomotors) by warmed knife in addition.
It is quick and it prevents adding the weight and complicating the print by the supports. I stick the servomotor around by the tape and stick it inside by foaming glue.
The parts on the edges can be utilized by need and butt-jointed by runny superglue. It is not possible to part the parts without demage, so be carefull.

It is better to cutting the cabin in rough at first and then apply accelerator on the inside. And then put the frame inside and slightly instill the superglue to the join.
After the gluing cut off the remaining durofol.

It is also available opaque cabin

In time I will probably add some more files or change them - these will be free.
I will adjust the instructions based on possible questions.