Gandy Dancer

Midwest Living Review

Karen Sorensen

The landmark Michigan Central Depot has been beautifully restored and transformed into the Gandy Dancer, a fine-dining seafood restaurant.

A "gandy dancer" was the nickname for railroad workers who looked like they were doing a waddling dance as they levered railroad track into place. It's a fitting moniker for a restaurant that's preserved and restored the landmark Michigan Central Depot, a huge stone structure built in 1886 that was once Ann Arbor's train station. Every part of the building is used for the restaurant, from the room that once held luggage to the bar area that had been reserved just for men. Oval-shaped Faberge lamps descend from an intricately laid ceiling, beautifully designed glass decorates the arched doorways, and the original woodwork has been buffed to a sheen. The best seats in the house, however, are on the enclosed porch, where the floor-to-ceiling windows offer a great panorama and an up-close view of passing trains. This is one of several restaurants owned by the Muer Seafood Restaurant chain, and the seafood options on the menu are myriad. In addition to a raw bar, the Gandy Dancer offers an array of shrimp, crab, lobster, scallop and mussel entrees as well as more than a dozen fresh-fish selections. For those who don't fancy seafood, there are steak, lamb and chicken options. (Expect to spend $12 to $20 on lunch and $20 to $30 for dinner.)