I just love a good modern and substantial canopy bed, don't you? Good thing for these free diy furniture plans to build a canopy bed, eh? This is avtually a really simple build so if you are looking for something fast with big impact you can make, this might just be the perfect thing!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Posts, Front and Back Frame, and Frame Sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Frame pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. At this point, the Bed is upside down so that it is easier to assemble. Make sure that the pocket holes will face the ceiling when the bed is turned right side up.

Step 2

Flip the piece over. Next, cut the pieces for the Front, Back and Side Top Rails. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Top Rail pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the floor when assembled.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Front, Back, and Side Platform pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Platform pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure the pocket holes face the inside of the Bed when assembled. In addition to the pocket screws, you can use 2” wood screws to attach the Top Rails to the Platform pieces.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Cleats. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Cleats. Assemble to the Platform Sides as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. In addition to the pocket screws, you can use 2” wood screws to attach the Cleats to the Platform.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Center Support and Center Support Legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top ends of the Center Support Legs and in each end of the Center Support. Attach the Center Support Legs to the Center Support with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Center Support to the Front and Back Platform pieces and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Slats. Attach the Slats to the Cleats and assemble as shown with glue and 2” wood screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

This Free DIY Furniture Plan to Build a Twin Sized Low Loft Bunk with Rolling Desk and Shelf is a a fabulous addition to our most popular collection of all time! Built with closed ends, a ladder and of course the rolling desk, this version can be made in whole or in part by adding on to any of our other Low Loft Bunk plans.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the Legs to size and attach the Cleat to the Lower Back Bed Rail using 2" Screws. To attach the Rail to the Legs you will arrange the 4 pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the Rails to allow for the Lower Side Bed Rails later, and clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side, creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts. Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten. Repeat steps for Lower Front Bed Rail.

Step 2

Attach the Back Desk Rail to the Back Legs. Use 3" Screws to attach to the Legs.

Step 3

Set the Kreg for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in the ends of the Side Desk Rails and Lower Side Bed Rails. Attach the Lower Side Bed Rails and Side Desk Rails to the Legs as shown with 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Step 4

Attach the Front Vertical Guard Rail, use 2" Screws. Then fasten the Upper Front Bed Rails to it with 2” wood screws and to the Left or Right Front Leg (depending on ladder location) with 3” screws.

Next, attach the Upper Back Bed Rails. Use 3" Screws to attach the Rails to the Legs.

Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 4" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1-1/4" Screws.

Step 6

Set the Kreg for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in the ends of each Upper Side Bed Rails. Attach the Upper Side Bed Rails to the Legs with 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Step 7

Next, assemble the Panels. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill holes on each of the four sides of the Panel. The Panels will sit 3/4” back from the Legs and Rails on the outside of the Bed, and flush with the Legs and Rails on the inside of the Bed.

Step 8

Create the Ladder. I give approximate dimensions for the height below, but the important aspect to focus on is the angle you will cut the top and bottom. The top of the ladder rails will be at a 75°angle and the bottom of the rails will be a 15°angle where the boards will rest on the ground. Attach the rungs at approximately 8" apart (this will depend on the age of your kiddo, the smaller and younger, the closer together these should be, you need to consider how easy it will be for them to climb down) and parallel to the ground. Use 3" Screws to fasten the rungs to the rails and to fasten the rails to the Leg and Front Guard Rail.

Step 9

Assemble the Bookcase as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Bookcase Top, Bookcase Shelf, and Bookcase Bottom. In addition, drill pocket holes in the backside of the Bookcase Top and Bookcase Shelf. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The Bookcase Top and Bookcase Shelf will be set back 3/4” from the back edge of the Bookcase Sides.

Step 10

Attach the Bookcase Back to the Bookcase as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom of the Bookcase back. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 11

Assemble the Desk Stop and Desk Top as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. The Desk Top will overlap the front and sides of the Bookcase by 1”.

Attach the furniture castors as shown. In this diagram, we used 2” casters that measured 3” in total height. If using another caster with a different height measurement, make up the difference in the Bookcase Sides and Bookcase Back.

Step 12

Assemble the pieces for the Desk Rails as shown. First, attach the left side Desk Rail, place the Retractable Desk (lining up the Desk Top inside the Desk Rail), and then attach the right side Desk Rail. Attach to the Lower Front Bed Rail and Lower Back Bed Rail with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws (drill pilot holes before using the screws to avoid wood splitting). Apply a coat of paste wax to the inside of the Desk Guides (after paint, stain, or topcoat) to help it slide smoothly.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

This DIY Fire Station Play Set is the perfect spot for all of the superhero and action figures to hang out while your imaginative children stage a very intricate rescue mission to save the whole world! Or maybe it would make a fabulous open frame dollhouse with a little customization, either way this Free Toy Plan to Build a Fire Station Play Set slash Dollhouse is a great gift to make for your special little ones this Holiday. This project is part of our TDC Handmade Holiday series, feel free to browse the other project plans to see what else you might make for your babes this year! I will be adding to it frequently, so check back often!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the Roof, First Floor, and Posts. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach edge banding to the sides of the plywood if desired.

Step 2

Cut out the Second Floor as shown. To create interior cutouts, you can drill a small pilot hole (slightly larger than the size of your jigsaw blade) in the corner of the cutout if needed. Then, simply insert your jigsaw blade, and begin cutting out the shape. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach edge banding to the sides of the plywood if desired.

Step 3

Cut out the First and Second Floor Walls as shown. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach edge banding to the sides of the plywood if desired.

Step 4

Next, cut out the Doors. Attach edge banding to the sides of the plywood if desired. There should be a 1/8” gap on all sides of the doors, and a 1/4” between the two Doors – this is to allow room for the hinges and for opening the Doors. Attach very small hinges to the Doors and adjacent wall as shown.

Step 5

Cut out the pieces for the Steps and Stair Sides. The best way to create the Steps will be to rip 3/4” plywood (or a 1x2) into a 1” wide strip approximately 17” in length. From this 1” strip, cut 7 pieces 2-1/4” in length. For the Stair Sides, rip a piece of 1/4” plywood into a 1” width approximately 10” in length (repeat twice, once for each Stair Side). Lay the Stair Side flat and stack the Steps on the Stair Side as shown. Make a vertical mark where the Step meets the Stair Sides and cut these portions off (we do this so we don’t have to fuss with those crazy 32nds of an inch measurements). Assemble as shown with glue and 1/2” brad nails (nailed from the outside of the Stair Sides into the Steps).

Step 6

Next, cut out the piece for the Fire Pole. Place as shown (same measurements for placement on top as noted on bottom) and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Chimney Sides, Front, and Top. Attach edge banding to the sides of the plywood if desired. Place as shown and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Trim Sides and Back. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9

Cut the piece for the Trim Front (mark and cut out with jigsaw). Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Make a cool Fire Station logo or use the child’s name on the Front Trim!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

If you are thinking of a build that gives you quite a bit of bang for your buck, a playful storage solution is just what you need. Equal parts organization and play, these projects represent The Design Confidential's current 10 most popular playful storage solutions for kids!

I will be adding this list to our Handmade Holiday series, so be sure to check out the other projects already part of that collection!

Equal parts fun and function, this gorgeous bed will make bed time a bit more exciting for the kiddos! A fabulous Handmade Holiday gift that will keep on giving for years after you build this!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

// Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces - some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact measurements may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps.

4 – 2x4 at 61-3/16” – Post A

4 – 2x4 at 59-1/8” – Post B

3 – 2x4 at 51-1/4” – Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail

3 – 2x4 at 74” – Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail

2 – 2x4 at 74” – Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail

4 – 2x4 at 31-3/16” – Roof Rafters

6 – 2x4 at 58-1/4” – Floor Joists

1 – 1/2” plywood at 58-1/4” x 78” – Floor

1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 78” – Back Wall

2 – 1/2” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40” – Front Wall

2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 57-1/4” –Side Bottom Walls

2 – 1/2” plywood at 18-1/4” x 54-3/16” –Side Top Walls

6 – 1x2 at 7-1/8” – Front Top Trim

6 – 1x2 at 13” – Front Bottom Trim

2 – 1x2 at 38-1/8” – Door Trim

4 – 1x2 at 16-1/2 – Top and Bottom Window Trim

4 – 1x2 at 15” – Side Window Trim

1 – 1x4 at 21” – Stair Hanger

2 – 1x4 at 51-1/4” – Side Ledges

14 – 1x4 at 10-3/4” – Side Bottom Trim

2 – 1x4 at 14-13/16” – Side Top Trim

4 – 1x4 at 10-15/16” – Side Top Trim

4 – 1x4 at 6-9/16” – Side Top Trim

1 – 1x4 at 74” – Back Ledge

9 – 1x4 at 10-3/4” – Back Trim

1 – 1x4 at 83-1/2” – Roof Ridge

6 – 1/2x4 at 83-1/2” – Purlins

42 – 1/2x4 at 37-1/4” – Roof Slats

2 – 1x8 at 30-1/2” – Stair Sides

2 – 1x8 at 18-3/4” – Steps

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

/ Click on Images to expand. If a plan has images that are too hard to read, please let me know and I will reupload the images for easier reference.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for Posts A and Posts B as shown.

Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material. Drill pocket holes in the long side of Post A as shown. Assemble Post A to Post B as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this process again, but in a “mirrored” assembly as shown in the image. Built a total of two sets of these “mirrored” Post pairs.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of both pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Rafters. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the pieces (avoid drilling pocket screws in the Ridge notch area). Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Floor Joists. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the floor. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the Back Wall. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes on the bottom of the Back Wall piece. Assemble as shown with glue - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Front Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Side Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Front Trim, Door Trim, Window Trim, and Stair Hanger. Assemble the Front Trim, Door Trim, and Window Trim as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Stair Hanger and attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Trim and Side Bottom Ledges. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 14

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Trim. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 15

Cut the pieces for the Back Trim and Back Ledge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 16

Cut the piece for the Roof Ridge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, nailed through the Rafters.

Cut the pieces for the Purlins. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the Purlins should extend 1-1/4” past the Rafters.

Step 17

Step 17 Image

Cut the pieces for the Roof Slats. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Roof Slats should be spaced 1/2” apart from each other and extend approximately 2” past the Front and Back Rails. The first and last Roof Slats should be flush with the Roof Ridge.

Step 18

Cut the pieces for the Stair Sides and Steps.

Drill pocket holes in the both ends of the steps. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws – make sure the pocket holes face the ground when assembling. Place on the Stair Hanger as shown and climb on in!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

So maybe toys and play things aren't exactly what you have on the agenda this holiday season... no problem! A new bed would be the most fabulous gift, and this one is pretty fabulous any time of year.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Footrest Legs. Mark the pieces as shown and cut – no need to worry about angles! Repeat this step twice.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the Footrest Rail. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Footrest Rail. Align the Footrest Rail so that it is set back 1/4” from the outside edge of the Footrest Legs. Attach the Footrest Rail to the Footrest Legs as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The holes should face the inside of the Bed.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Headrest Legs. Mark the pieces as shown and cut – no need to worry about angles! Repeat this step twice.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Headrest Slats and the Headrest Rail. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Headrest Slats and Headrest Rail. Align the Headrest Slats and Headrest Rail so that they are set back 1/4” from the inside edge of the Headrest Legs. Attach the Headrest Slats and Headrest Rail to the Headrest Legs as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The pocket holes on the Headrest Slats should face the outside of the Bed and the pocket holes on the Headrest Rail should face the inside of the Bed.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Side Rails. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Make sure that the Side Rails are set back 1/4” from the outside edge of the Legs. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Cleats. The Cleats should sit 2” below the top edge of the Side Rails. Attach the Cleats to the Side Rails as shown with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Make sure that the bottom sides of the Stretchers are flush with the bottoms of the Headrest and Footrest Rails. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Slats. The Slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the Cleats using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The Slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!

Step 9

Step 11

Step 12

Step 13

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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