The most inner, lowest (towards the cab) stud/bolt seems to be gone. There is just a hole.

So is it a stud, or a bolt?

I know there is a mix of studs and bolts holding the manifold on, but I don't know what goes here.

I have no idea how the hell it loosened off and rattled all the way out! My girlfriend said she heard a loud rattling sound and then all of a sudden the leak started. Im assuming the rattling was the bolt/stud falling out and hitting the exhaust pipe.

A few other nuts/bolts on the manifold were pretty loose so I snugged them up and the leak got a little better..

What are my chances that if I put in a new stud/bolt it will be fine, and I don't have to do the actual manifold/head gasket.. I really don't want to! Its way to cold right now

Have already had to drill and helicoil the manifold/exhaust y pipe because it was leaking like a sob.

so yeah, if its a bolt please let me know what size it is. If its a stud i know the size is 10mmx1.25

I'm not the best person to answer this, but since you're so anxious I'll throw in my $.02.

The exhaust manfold on a 22R uses 4 studs in the head on top and 4 at the bottom (top and bottom studs are different Toyota part numbers). The only bolts used hold on the EGR air tube and the aluminum heat shield. RE manifolds should be the same or very similar.

Yeah, they're all studs. I just replaced all of mine (1994 22RE) a month ago as three of the eight were loose and their holes would not grip the threads. Got new set from Toyota and a Helicoil set on ebay, and redid them all. I used high temp thread lock for install (also brand new manifold gasket) and anti-seize for nuts (bought new nuts through Toyota - about $2.25 each!). After installing and driving about sixty miles I re-torqued them all.

Before I tackled this I read every post on YT I could find on doing this. Apparently, according to a few posters, some good hardware stores carry the same size studs and they worked just fine. Yes it's getting cold outside and you might try fitting the one hole with a stud it will grip, maybe setting it in with threadlock (which has to heated about 500 degrees when you go about re-doing it correctly when spring rolls around...).

I just fixed my manifold leak a couple months ago. Leaking at the #4 exhaust. My manifold was warped so i got it resurfaced before putting a new gasket on.

If yours is leaking there is a good chance your manifold is warped. You can put a new stud and bolt on to see if the leak stops but be very careful not to strip the threads in the head. The stock studs are short and don't engage enough threads to hold a lot of torque.

Yeah, they're all studs. I just replaced all of mine (1994 22RE) a month ago as three of the eight were loose and their holes would not grip the threads. Got new set from Toyota and a Helicoil set on ebay, and redid them all. I used high temp thread lock for install (also brand new manifold gasket) and anti-seize for nuts (bought new nuts through Toyota - about $2.25 each!).

Ouch. If you can spare a few days and need some other things to help offset shipping cost, buy online. Those nuts (90179-10052) were $.84 each at 1sttoyotaparts. Upper studs (90116-10067) were $.95 each, lower (90116-10064) $.72. They charge $9.95 minimum or 10% of the order cost for shipping. Other sellers may be better for small orders.

Before I tackled this I read every post on YT I could find on doing this. Apparently, according to a few posters, some good hardware stores carry the same size studs and they worked just fine. Yes it's getting cold outside and you might try fitting the one hole with a stud it will grip, maybe setting it in with threadlock (which has to heated about 500 degrees when you go about re-doing it correctly when spring rolls around...).

How are these studs supposed to be installed in good, fresh holes? I'm using a new head. What approximate torque? Use thread locker or not?

My exhaust manifold didn't leak, but the shop said it was .008" out, so they trued it. IIRC, the book says .003" is the max warpage allowed.

"How are these studs supposed to be installed in good, fresh holes? I'm using a new head. What approximate torque? Use thread locker or not?" - Flyingbrass

I was referring to half-a$$ing the repair if one wants to avoid working with cold metal on a cold day. But even then, and even using threadlock, you'd need some good threads to work with. For FRESH holes, for a NEW head, from what I found out, I would only install exact matching studs. I got mine from the dealer because i was real antsy to get her done and didn't want any problems. (I'm still learning never to rush ANY of this kind of work, even on a warm comfy day or in a totally equiped garage...). And get someone to measure the surface of the manifold regarding warpage.

Approximate torque is 33 ft/lb, and thread lock is highly recommended.
Re-torquing after a hundred miles is also recommended. Over tightening is not.

I had a few stripped holes in my head, and was missing a stud in the same place. I drilles the holes out, taped them to 7/16 and bough all bolts in grade 2 and reinstalled manifold with new gasket and bolts. Worked like a charm!

i have an exhaust leak between my manifold and down pipe, maybe its B.C. that makes these things happen lol. jay im going to kill my yota, so tired of my 22re, i needs an ext cab like yours with a 3.4 before i drive this thing off a cliff lol.

i have an exhaust leak between my manifold and down pipe, maybe its B.C. that makes these things happen lol. jay im going to kill my yota, so tired of my 22re, i needs an ext cab like yours with a 3.4 before i drive this thing off a cliff lol.

Oh that place is so common! One of the bolts there was missing and the other was crossthreaded. Had to drill it out and heli-coil it! It sucked pretty bad.

I think its time for a damn header...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gnarly4X

I'd be really careful about overtorquing the studs in the head, especially in one that is NOT new or been retapped. If you use loctite, then DO NOT retorque the studs. I would not torque to 33 lbs.

I would "poop-can" the stock locking nuts and go with a split lock washer and grade 5 or grade 8 header hex nut. The crimp style factory nuts are not good because they tend to clamp up on the stud while scoring the threads, and twisting the stud in the head. You will need to check and recheck the hex nuts and lock washer option until you are satisified they are holding tight.

That's just my worthless opinion.

gNARLs.

Well I got the stock stud and nut from the dealer (he didnt charge me) and put it in today.

Just threaded it in and snugged it down. It really felt like it was starting to let go so I didnt want to really get any torque on it.

I have a feeling the lost stud was like this for the 3 years that my girlfriend has had this truck.

In anycase, I got the stud+nut in, not that tight but it stopped the leak.

Mine went out driving home one evening. I had to drive around sounding like a most sunfire's and cavaliers for a couple days.
Mine had been leaking for over a year (since I bought the truck), I knew about it when I bought my truck. Finally lost another stud and it sounded like a whoopy cushion going down the road.
I got a new gasket and new studs/nuts.
Remember, longer studs go up top for the egr tube. I found this one out the hard way. It was a pain since I didn't had a stud remover/installer, I was doing the double nut trick. Plus I figured it out on the last stud. D'oh!!!

haha a header is on my list too . jay we need to go wheeling some time man. i dont know much wheeling around here except stave and stave is all mud lol and bigger trucks just make big trenches that suck for a stock yota haha. plus i gotta see your truck, i feaking love ext cabs haha

haha a header is on my list too . jay we need to go wheeling some time man. i dont know much wheeling around here except stave and stave is all mud lol and bigger trucks just make big trenches that suck for a stock yota haha. plus i gotta see your truck, i feaking love ext cabs haha

Haha, for sure!

unfortunatly my truck is in no shape to go wheeling Needs most of the front end parts replaced... Sucks!

unfortunatly my truck is in no shape to go wheeling Needs most of the front end parts replaced... Sucks!

And many other things...

Well meet up for sure sometime!

cool cool.

whats goin on with your truck? you mean susp or body parts?
if you talking cv's and susp then i feal your pain, i had to replace my right knucle, both cv's and a bunch of steering parts, couple ball joints, rebuild power steering. never ending lmao. all i can say is i cant wait to get a sfa under her haha