14 comments:

Like a hen's head. Amazing, this shaper is capable of working on aluminum! That's a pity you didn't show the actual work on aluminum in realtime. Usually people say that it is the lack of rigidity, which makes the most routers useless against metals. What is the model of that encoder? How does it operate? Does it need anything on the shaft? I am about to build a servo amplifier of a DC motor, and I nee an encoder.

Nice! Thank you for the link! Just found AMT10 encoders on ebay - seems to be great bargain - can't see any difference from AMT11 though. Besides, can't find that part number in the datasheet - seems like it's was a custom-built series. What are the ball/nut parameters and how do you compare the accuracy of your cnc with the old encoder and the new one? Thanks!

Judging by this page:http://www.cui.com/product-spotlight/capacitive-modular-encoders-amt10-and-amt11-seriesboth of them have line driver output option. But for some minor changes in the mounting procedure, I can't find any differences between them. Anyway, thank you for the hint! Hope to see the next post about the whole thing. I'm about to build a custom driver using tiny2313 at 20MHz, not sure if it would be enough to handle such signal to enable appropriate speeds though...

i'm sorry if this comment is irrelevant, couldn't find your email address for direct contact.4 years ago i found practical usage of knowledge interesting and i started to train my self in order to develop different kind of electromechanical devices including robots. I obtain my B.Eng in mechanical engineering an recently i started my M.Eng in Mechatronics in order to reach my final goal.But after 9 months i think that the package that university offer to the students is somehow inefficient and wasting of time. now i'm in a dilemma to continue my study or quit the university system. Now i want to now that if you step back in time , would you start your M.E ? would you even go to university?

salman.71.karimi@gmail.comThis is my email address, it would be appreciated if you contact me for a convenient conversation. Thank you.

just got mine. but they came without any toolings, just the bare encoders. will it be a big trouble as to bother you and ask to provide some info on clearance. It seems I can cope with radial positioning, but it seems to be much more difficult to set it correctly in axial direction...

The AMT11 encoders are supplied with a plastic installation tool and set of plastic shaft collets. If you are missing these parts, it will be very difficult to install the encoders. Take a look at the photo here: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=AMT113Q-V&v=102

yes, I know, an no, I don't have them :-( I am pretty much sure I would be able to build a socket (either 3d-printed or cnc-mille of aluminum stock), and I'd manage to properly center the whole thing, so that there will be no jumpings, but I can't understand if the central part should be rotating freely, or should be pressed against the casing (difficult to explain). I thought of using perhas thermal shrinking tube instead of the collet. When you install it onto the base, the central rotating part is pressed against the metal top part. Should there be slight friction between the metal top part and the freely-rotating central part, or there is something on the base plate that releases that pressure after the sensor is installe, so that the central part doesn't touch anything at all when on the shaft?

The central rotating part of the encoder should not touch the stationary part -- no friction or rubbing. The AMT11 is supplied with a plastic tool to push the rotating part to the correct position during installation.