Damir Doma

Croatian-born, Paris-based Damir Doma isn't one for embellishments, even of a functional variety—you'll never see zippers or hooks on his clothes. Not even a button slips past his watchful eye: The designer, who worked under Raf Simons and began in menswear before branching into women's two seasons ago, has a near fetish for the unbroken line. He's similarly austere about color. Black, white, and gray; long, loose, and often layered: That's the Doma philosophy.

For pre-fall, the designer envisioned a "very classic, luxury women's wardrobe." It's a streamlined and sinuous take on those classics, one that betrays his Belgian training. His wide, floor-length pants sit high on the waist and are worn with an elongated, men's-style shirt; a strong-shouldered tuxedo jacket comes with its satin shawl collar inset, the merest suggestion of a lapel. Long dresses in jersey and silk crepe skirts with asymmetrical panels round out the collection. There are pieces here that the gallerinas of the world will no doubt be keen to add to their racks of Ann Demeulemeester and Helmut Lang. And if it occasionally feels a little ascetic, there's the consolation of a square-cut cape of Mongolian lamb.