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November 2011 travel news 65
developed habits peculiar to itself and it is
these that make a dive so fascinating.
You can be as hyperactive as you like
at Lakeshore: kayak to an island 3 kms
offshore, dive depths, fish for fat sangala
for suppertime sashimi, quad bike, walk the
hill behind you to the beautiful monastery
built by the White Fathers and Congolese
slaves a century and a half ago. Or you
can sit on the butterscotch beach and gaze
across waters which reflect the sky so that
they morph from aquamarine at high noon
to vin rose at sundown.
But at some point, unless you’re lucky
enough to be Chris and Louise who live
here, you’ll have to drag yourselves away,
pack yourself back into your car and head
home.
In our case that meant a delicious clamber
up through the Masito Escarpment
between dusty, fly-blown Mpanda and the
salt pans at Uvinza where we crossed the
mighty Malagarasi – Tanzania’s second
longest river which empties itself into
Tanganyika, and which proved something
of a headache when Livingstone was trying
to traverse the country.
Less delicious were the fourteen hours it
took us and the attendant three punctures.
But that’s road trips. And as long as you’ve
packed enough, nobody will get bored or
starve to death...
Lakeshore at Kipili