Cafes and markets line the streets near Bondi Beach in Sydney, Australia. Photo / Supplied

And we think we've nailed "lifestyle"? Even on a Monday night there's an easy buzz about Bondi, Australia's most famous beach-side neighbourhood. Surfers are strolling home as the last light fades, cossie-clad bums are on seats dining outdoors, still with a dusting of sea and sand. The beachy scene is utterly seductive.

Bondi is not polished and perfect; despite the multimillion-dollar real estate price tags, it still has its slightly unkempt look. You only need to glance at the tatty edges to realise that, yes, developers have had a good go - and will continue to do so - but this iconic beach suburb remains in the hands of the locals, who cherish what they have. It evolves, but it also retains.

A community cross-section has been converging here for decades and Bondi's own beach culture has evolved: its unspoken demarcations put the backpackers at the south end, where they busy themselves getting caught in the "backpacker express" (the notorious rip); at the other end are the locals - from families to ripped, bullet-proof bodies - extending to the grassy knoll at North Bondi that the cool kids have claimed, and from where they venture to swim off the rocks.

The first time I visited Bondi many years ago I didn't understand what all the fuss was about, but stay a while and you get it - it lets you be who you are, whoever that may be. Here's a taste of where the locals hang out - old and new.

Local faves

The Shop, 78 Curlewis StCafe by day, bar by night, this hole-in-the-wall joint has "local" scrawled all over its hotch-potch decor. The owners are also behind Bondi Rd's Panama House and The Corner House

Raw Bar, cnr Warners and Wairoa AveLocals can't get enough of this Japanese eatery that's been up and running since 1995.

Speakeasy Bar, 83 Curlewis StA lounge bar for "notorious strumpets and dangerous beaus", Fiorella, the owner, confirms that this petite bar is a local haunt rather than for "travellers" (backpackers) - they don't drift that far from the beach.

Earth Food Store Cafe, 81A Gould StFor the best coffee in Bondi, see Nick, who has been the barista for more than 10 years.

North Bondi RSL, 118-120 Ramsgate AvePull up for primo views and a beer at this top location. This is a Returned Servicemen's Club, so expect a respectful minute's silence at 6pm.