Restaurants: The King

Before Henri Soule arrived in 1939, New York lacked a single restaurant
that, by international standards, could be rated first-class. Today
Manhattan boasts a dozentwo of them are his, and most of the others
are owned or staffed by his proteges. When he died last week of a heart
attack at 62, his Le Pavilion was still the best of them all, the
undisputed exemplar of haute cuisine in the U.S. and, by the judgment
of the incorruptible Guide Michelin's Pierre Lamalle, the equal of the
five best restaurants of Pariswhich is to say, of the world.