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Monday, August 4, 2014

Guerlain is busy recalibrating their fragrance line, chopping and adding things (see Mademoiselle Guerlain), while at the same time celebrating 20 years of successful presence on makeup counters with their "Kiss Kiss" lipsticks, the outer packaging of which is being updated upping the glam for autumn/winter 2014, as you can see in my collage below!

If you have followed the launch of Guerlain Terracotta Le Parfum(celebrating 30 years of the fabulous Terracottarange of makeup and sun products), you know what's coming: a brand new fragrance, commemorating this milestone of the French house of perfume and cosmetics.

My take.
The theme of "lipstick scents" is a popular one, usually utilizing the allied forces of rose & violet which bring to mind the retro feel of glamorous silver screen sirens putting on lipstick in front of gilded vanity tables or ~maybe a bit more prosaically but all the more powerfully~ of our own mothers indulging in the exact same ritual. Guerlain, despite having an excellent scent criterion for their makeup line, (famously inspiring the Meteorites fragrance that copied the ethereal scent of their makeup powder beads by the same name) choose to step into a rather more fruity-berry path. Carnal Elixir French Kiss is comprised by the time-honored chord of rose & violet, but with a dominant inclusion of litchi and raspberry (yes, the perfume is pink in color). The raspberry note is further enhanced by the fruity nuances of the chosen white musk, while vanilla, orris and heliotrope, all three characteristic Guerlain perfume trademarks, contribute a comforting feel.
The name, apart from being so very English, despite it being a "French" kiss, is reminiscent of the witty rom com by the same name (French Kiss) starring Meg Ryan and Kevin Kline, parodying the penchant of Anglosaxons for French romance. Tongue-in-cheek? Cute move, Guerlain!

French Kiss by Guerlain, a "sprakling floral fragrance" in the Elixirs Charnels line, is to be launched in autumn 2014 (October)

Sounds rather like Lipstick Rose, which I know a lot of people adore; it's quite addictive. I don't like raspberry in perfumes so I avoid this sort of thing, mostly, although a dab or row if LR is fun occasionally. LE is also very bright, and I expect the Guerlain will be more subdued, if their house style is anything to go by.

assuredly, this is the thinking behind this from a market research point. Only please note that the Elixirs line is more "haute" than the regular distribution, so more limited distribution and elevated prices. (I'm being cynical, aren't I? But truthful)

I expect it to be rather different from Lipstick Rose, if only because it sounds like it's much sweeter and fruitier.( The commenter above you already asserts it is so indeed).

Personally I find LR a fabulous idea but too waxy and "dense" to put on. It's something I like to sniff from the vial from time to time or put in a blotter and tuck into a book. Brings on beautiful thoughts and a playful, fun ambience (the perfect bookmark for a fashion design volume).

Maybe I should point out that Perfume Shrine took the information from www.facebook.com/monsieurguerlain, and that the KissKiss relation is my personal speculation. It seems obvious, however, given the perfume's name and the 20th anniversary of the lipstick line.

anyone following Guerlain as closely as you do knows your facebook page well enough by now. I have linked it many times here actually, as you had requested previously from me, and as it is indeed a valuable resource alongside your page.

The name and the connection with the Kiss Kiss range of lipsticks is confirmed by the PR handle of Guerlain I'm in touch with so I deduce it's pretty official. I have even created an image which includes the revamped Kiss Kiss for 2014 (the black & gold packaging) if you check closely. I also provided the background for why this is common practice to reflect milestones in cross-related ranges (this already happened with Vol de Nuit powder, Meteorites fragrance, Terracotta le Parfum, the newer lipsticks named after fragrances etc)

As to the rest, if you re-read your post and my post again, anyone can definitely see the differences/additions I provided (as I always do when reporting news). The reader who has commented having sampled it confirms your (and my) impression that it must be candyish and fruity. I'm awaiting my sample in the mail so I shall have a personal opinion very soon. Interested in comparing notes at that point if you care to :-)

thanks for taking the time to explain.I think they're more forthcoming with the lipsticks than the fragrance at this point, but I'm sure the SAs at the espaces Guerlain will be showing customers the two in conjunction. Come to think of it, it makes for a "fuller" experience of the brand and creates loyalty (as long as they don't discontinue the perfumes! LOL!).

Elena Vosnaki is executive editor of Fragrantica.gr, the leader in fragrance information in Greek, as well as a senior editor for the top english-speaking Fragrantica.com webzine.

Vosnaki has been Fragrance Expert on About.com and the Perfume History Curator of the Be Open Foundation exhibitionThe Garden of Wonders, A Journey in Scents in Milan. Her writing has been twice shortlisted in the FIFI Editorial Excellence Awards and is extensively quoted by authors. She is an evaluating expert on Osmoz.com.

Perfume Shrine is an award winning blog of 1000s of fragrance reviews (modern, niche, classic, vintage), articles on perfume history and aroma materials, comparisons of scents, interviews with perfumers & the fragrance industry, perfume shopping as well as scented travel memoirs, fine cuisine, tips on building a fragrance wardrobe and musings about the pleasures of the senses.