Wine bars and restaurants galore line Third Street, but the town's charm is as much on display at Serendipity Ice Cream as at any wine dispensary. The same goes for La Bella Casa, Ranch Records, Currents Gallery or Mes Amies.

The city's many small, owner-operated shops, sort of a boutique row, make McMinnville's core as much of a Yamhill Valley wine destination as the nearby vineyards of the Dundee Hills, the tasting rooms of Carlton or the glitzy Allison Inn and Spa in Newberg.

It's also a dining destination, now that Bon Appétit, the national food magazine, has named McMinnville one of the country's six best small towns for food lovers.

Civic boosters make the claim that McMinnville's Third Street is Oregon's favorite "main street." The same might be said about Oak Street in Hood River or Bond Street in Bend, but it's hard to argue against the allure of McMinnville.

But it wasn't always that way.

Like other small downtowns, McMinnville lost its anchor businesses to shopping malls and big-box stores. The city-center exodus coincided with the coming of age of Oregon's wine industry, so new tenants quickly filled Third Street's century-old brick buildings.

McMinnville's historic downtown extends alphabetically, from Adams, Baker and Cowls to Johnson Street. That's 10 blocks, from shady City Park on one end to Golden Valley Brewery on the other.

It's compact enough to do on foot, which is how many wine lovers will be spending the 28th Willamette Valley Wine Country Thanksgiving on Nov. 26-28.

THIRD STREET, DOWNTOWN MCMINNVILLE

McMinnville

Get there: Drive 35 miles southwest of Portland on Oregon 99W. Take the Oregon 18 bypass, then the city center exit just past the air museum.

The museum: The Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum, two miles from downtown, has been a destination for aviation buffs since the world's largest wooden airplane (the Spruce Goose) arrived in 1993. Next spring, an indoor water park will join the aviation and space halls and IMAX theater. Yes, that's a retired Boeing 747 on the water park's roof; 503-434-4180, evergreen museum.org.

Here are some downtown McMinnville businesses that appeal to out-of-town visitors, all within a block or two of Third Street. Phone numbers are for making reservations when needed.

Wine tasting

A lot to choose from, but not overwhelming. You will have more trouble working your way through all the restaurants than the wine bars.

Oregon's third-largest wine producer opened the Willamette Valley Vineyards Wine Center (300 Third) a year ago. It pours wines seven days a week alongside competitors for taste comparison. Displayed on the walls are framed maps of the seven viticultural areas of the Willamette Valley.

Wednesday Wines (250 Third) specializes in everyday wine from around the world, with most bottles selling for less than $20. It sells olive oils by the ounce and shares space with a gourmet cheese counter.

The elegant space at NW Wine Bar (326 Davis) is inviting for live music and is decorated with expensive art for sale. It sells wine from its own production facility across town and from around the world. Noah's (525 Third) dates to 1994, making it one of Oregon's oldest wine bars. Owner Jack Thornton is a bit quirky, opening the doors when he feels like it, but that includes most weekend nights. He is one of the most knowledgeable wine people in town, and his wine library backs him up.

R. Stuart Wine Bar (528 Third) is the tasting room for a McMinnville winery, located three blocks away in another busy part of downtown called the Granary District (granarydistrict.com). The wine bar also serves small bites, espresso and artisan beer.

Panther Creek Cellars (455 Irvine) pours single-vineyard pinot noir it makes from six Willamette Valley vineyards. The cellar is in the town's old power plant, which offers space galore for stacking wine barrels to the rafters.

It was hard coming up with a name, so Twelve (581 Third) chose a number instead. It specializes in wine from its nearby Fir Crest Vineyard and shares space with Honest Chocolates. Séjourné (448 Third) pours wine from its estate vineyard in Yamhill and from around Oregon, paired with small plates.

Restaurants

How can a town of 33,000 have so many good restaurants in such a compact area? Simple. Tourists come from around the world to explore Oregon wine country, and McMinnville is the epicenter.

The hot new spot is Thistle (228 Evans, 503-472-9623), where owner/chef Eric Bechard sources 95 percent of the food he serves from farms within a 45-mile radius. Restaurant decor is rustic French countryside, and the bar table is wood reclaimed from a bowling alley.

Nick's Italian Cafe (521 Third, 503-434-4471) has retained a status as a destination restaurant since opening in 1977. Bistro Maison (729 Third, 503-474-1888) offers provincial French cuisine and, weather permitting, its backyard patio is the best outdoor dining space in town. La Rambla (238 Third, 503-435-2126) will save you a trip to Madrid with its delicious menu of Spanish tapas. Golden Valley Brewery (980 Fourth) rises above many an Oregon brewpub with its emphasis on including Oregon food, including all-natural beef and seafood. Sushi lovers head for Kame (211 Third), olive fanatics to Olive You (411 Third) and seekers of comfort food to Orchards Bistro (313 Third).

Look for ethnic food at Thai Country (707 Third) and Los Molcajetes (527 Third), both family friendly. The Mexican restaurant has the best outdoor tables on Third Street.

Harvest Fresh Grocery and Deli (251 Third) is sort of a mini-New Seasons, while NW Food and Gifts (445 Third) has gourmet food and crafts from around Oregon. Both have good wine selections. Currents Gallery (532 Third), a co-op, is the main art gallery downtown, with affordable local art in a variety of media. Third Street Books (334 Third) sells them new and used. Ranch Records (314 Third) is the place to buy something more expensive than a fine bottle of Oregon pinot noir: a Beatles' "Love Me Do" single for $250.

Tommy's Bike Shop (624 Third) is a full-service store, except for rentals. The clerk said cyclists expecting to ride to surrounding wineries soon find roads to be curvy, steep and gravel. Better to enjoy a morning road ride (look for suggestions at www.tommysbicycle.net), then drive to the vineyards.

Kids stuff

Kids rule during the day at Serendipity Ice Cream (502 Third), but adults gladly accept cone-licking duty at night.

The 3rd Street Pizza Co. (433 Third) shows kid flicks in its Moonlight Theater. Many a 3-year-old ballerina has scored her first tutu from the Dance Boutique (448 Third), perhaps from Grandma's trip to wine country. Lodging

Not a lot downtown, but it bridges the spectrum between funky and fancy.

Another classic in the Portland brothers' chain, the McMenamins Hotel Oregon (310 Evans, 503-472-8427), shows some wear and tear from its 105 years but exudes oodles of charm and can keep guests inside on a stormy night with its pub-style restaurant and bar. The hotel's rooftop bar has the city's best view on a nice day.

The new Third Street Flats (219 Cowls, 503-857-6248) has only four units, but it's the place for European-style, above-the-business lodging. Guests check in at Wednesday Wines just below.