The Lunch Box

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For those still lamenting the day the doors closed at Bistro M: behold and rejoice. Chef Marcel Fortuin has reopened, decking out his former French bistro with vintage lunch boxes. We started with grilled shrimp over mixed greens perfectly coated in a light vinaigrette (prepared à la minute). The fish of the day was served en papillote, the cooking jacket emitting fragrant steam when opened at our table. Leave room for the soufflé, but order it early, because it takes a while.