Exploring the wines of Grandes Pagos de Espana

The international wine lexicon is full of terms with the general meaning of "special growing site."

In Germany, it's "gewachs;" in Spain it's "pago." France has several such terms: "climat" and "lieu-dit" are sites that are unofficially recognized for quality; "cru" is a site with its designation ratified by French law.

An expansive nose of ripe berries introduces a velvety palate with layers of fruit, meat, mocha and damp earth flavors and long, mouthwatering palate, expressing a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Serve with full, flavorful dishes such as game meats and birds (venison, duck, etc.) or a rich Mexican mole. Proprietor Carlos Falco pioneers modern viticulture on this 13th century property, which is not only a Grande Pago, but also the first single estate in Spain to be awarded its own Denominación de Origen by the Spanish government and European Union.

In 2000, Spanish producers began a movement to officially recognize Spain's most advantageous growing sites; in 2003, this association was named Grandes Pagos de Espana.

The association may be new, but the land it represents is rooted in Spain's history.

"Spanish growers have known these special slopes, special exposures, special soils for a thousand years and more," explains Grandes Pagos chairman Carlos Falco.

"Only after the isolationism of (former ruler Fransico) Franco, within the past 40 years, have single vineyard estates thrived," says Falco, counting his own property, Marques de Grinon, among those thriving.

Currently, only 24 vineyards throughout Spain have achieved Grandes Pagos recognition; for a complete list, visit grandespagos.com. About half of these are available in the suburbs and pair brilliantly will grilled meats. My favorites from a recent tasting are listed below (along with local distributors to aid your retailer).

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