The cow is brown

Depend on Mark Knoebl to brew a solid brown ale at Mount Horeb’s Grumpy Troll Brewpub. Knoebl has a cache of recipes for them, and a fresh batch of one of his standards, Hey Now Brown Cow, just went on tap.

Style: There are two styles of classic European brown ales: the northern region’s nuttier versions and the stronger, maltier ones of southern England. These are dark brown to black beers with malty signatures, medium body and strength ranging from 4.2 percent to 6.3 percent ABV. Among the most notable imports are Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale and Newcastle Brown Ale. American versions of brown ales tend to have more roastedness and more assertive hoppiness.

Background: European brown ales have rotated through the Grumpy Troll’s taps since the brewpub opened in 1998 (as the Mount Horeb Pub and Brewery). The first take on this beer was called “How” Now Brown Cow. Over the years, different Grumpy Troll brewers have had a hand in tweaking the original recipe and making variations that stand alone as new beers.

Hey Now Brown Cow is made with brown and chocolate malts that give it distinctive chocolate sweetness. It has a light amount of Cascade hops for balance and bitterness. However, this beer is really all about the malts, which lend cocoa-like flavor and light nutty roastedness.

Knoebl likes to keep a medium-bodied brown ale in his lineup all the time. Hey Now Brown Cow rotates in a couple of times a year, usually in winter and late spring. The current version will be on tap through January. The beer finishes at 5.3% ABV and 24 IBUs. It’s sold over the bar for $4.75 pint and $15/growler (refill).

Knoebl is fond of the older beer styles, especially European beers. He returned a few weeks ago from touring Germany and the Czech Republic. Pub-goers can expect to see influences from that trip in what Knoebl offers over the next several months.

Tasting notes:

Aroma: Hints of chocolate and light roasted toffee.

Appearance: Dark brown, almost black color, with a bubbly tan head.

Texture: Medium-bodied with softness.

Taste: Toffee and caramel notes with lots of chocolate maltiness and a nutty dryness.

Glassware: The nonic pint as a nod of respect to the English origins of the style.

Pairs well with: soft buttery cheese like Camembert and Brie. From the Grumpy Troll menu my choice is gouda mac and cheese bites.

The Verdict: European brown ales should be pleasant, easy drinking and inviting much like a session beer. Compared to other browns, Hey Now Brown Cow has a distinctive chocolate sweetness — so much so that you may think it has cocoa or even milk sugars (lactose) in it. However, Knoebl is clear that there’s none of those adjuncts in the beer. It’s is all about the combination of malts, which lend the beer a hot chocolate-like sweetness, but not so much that it becomes sticky or cloying. There’s also a subtle blend of lightly roasted, nutty, caramel and toffee notes in the background and finish. This beer grew on me as I sipped a glass. As it warmed to room temperature, all those flavors emerged even more. Don’t pass by this medium-bodied dark ale on your next visit to Mount Horeb.