Terry Rose,
I’ll try to help you, do you have my email address? Let me know on here, we’ll see if it’s something I can help you with before you send it out for repair. I’ll be around today. ... Joe Prete

I’m going to ask you guys again, Lets stop with the cursing and the complaining to this site. We did not manufacture these cameras. The language problem that started a few days ago on the SONY HX200V has to stop or they won’t let anyone post to these reviews. Please keep it clean and be kind to each other.

This site allows you more freedom than just about any other in this category. Please don’t abuse it, or we may not have the ability to post. If you have a problem, one of the other posters will try to help you resolve it, but they need to understand what the problem is. Explain it clearly. Cursing will not help!
....... Joe Prete

Hummm!!! Its time to change the rating method and set some new “Higher Standards” to judge cameras. Most of recently reviewed cameras earned “Highly Recommended” mark but I dont think so…
What do you think dear readers? Let us know.

Sokhoomora, what rating method are you referring to? They don’t judge cameras here, and there is no “recommended” cameras either are you referring to another site? Please clarify your comment, we don’t understand what you are trying to say!

Some people are wondering -
should I upgrade from the HS20 to the HS25/30 ?

If you don’t have one of those cams and like the all-in-one approach buy one, probably you won’t regret. But remember this cams give their best image quality if you are willing to stay out of the AUTO modes.

I really like the HS20, keep mind in that HS20 sells now for $289 at B&H and you get the same image quality of $499 HS30. Use what you saved on filters, tele-conveter, tripod, etc., that you’ll keep for your next cam.

The HS20EXR PASM-C 8MP modes give good quality pics even at ISO800. Using the ‘Low-light-low-noise’ advanced-auto mode you can even get good results at ISO3200, sometimes.

They are all good cams for learning. Great solution for hiking. Super-tele and super-macro in one thing, no dust issues, no changing lenses, hey I’m not trading mine !

But, if you want to truly upgrade then I think is not a good deal to waste money on something so similar to what you already own. Keep your HS20 til you can buy something different, that brings more to the game.

The largest differences between HS20 and HS30 seems to be the much better viewfinder resolution,
faster RAW write speed and the new multiple exposure advanced mode of the later. If those are worth the $200 difference for you then go ahead.

Regarding an upgrade to the X-S1 flagship, I think spending $799 for a bridge cam, for someone that already owns a very good Bridge is absurd.
The X-S1 was supposed to be the true replacement
of the HS20 if it was priced at $499.
Get a Nikon 3200 or Canon T3i instead for the same $$. Or even a PENTAX K-5 with waterproof kit lens, if you can afford to go to $1250.

At low ISO all photos look quite the same, but modern DSLRs or micro 4/3 give you a big plus for low light photos, I mean up to ISO6400 with the quality you get at ISO200 on the HS20/25/30.
While the X-S1 brings that same image quality
at ISO400. Is it worth the upgrade ? Is up to you.

DSLR offer not only low-light superior image quality but focuses way faster and the manual focus is just incomparable to the HS20/25/30.

Bottom line there is no perfect cam, not yet, so if you have one type for each situation you have all covered, just don’t get rid of your old cams
so quickly ;-)

I have hopes that pretty soon large MPix sensors in bridge cams will start to use what’s called ‘pixel over-sampling’, so with a 40MP sensor you can oversample to get lower MP pics with low noise, comparable to current DSLR.

Wish list : imagine a future HS40 or HS50 with a sensor like the one in Nokia 808 pureview, and you can choose the level of oversampling to get low noise 10MP JPEG by combining 4 pixels
into one, just imagine what they will achieve with the 100MP + oversampling sensors !

Image Quality: 4?
Images with much noise at all levels, sparkling edges, diagonal ladders.
It is strange that the method being used to rate the quality of the image.
Many want to love the Fujis HS, by its design, quality construction, features and everything that makes a camera emosionante, however, it appears that the latter will not be forgiven his lack of sharpness that if their competitors have achieved .
It is clear that we must keep the HS20, and it is clear that only thinks fuji get a new camera every year without taking much account of the dreams of their fans.
..... Image Quality: 4? ... strange rating

Sokhoomora, I’m sorry, I wasn’t aware the star rating was back. It was showing up sometimes and I see it here on this camera. I agree this camera has a few too many stars. Do any of you agree that the star rating system needs an overhaul? I think this Fuji is very, very over rated. Anyone that agrees with Sokhoomora and me, please put it in writing, right here in the comments section. Voice your opinion, otherwise they won’t know.

I also think that in this economy, we are giving Fujifilm way too much money. I’ve said this many times, they don’t fix a problem, they come out with a new version that just so happens to not have the problem the last version had. They are billing us, to fix what they owed to us on the version that we paid for.

Another thing that bothers me is trying to make their products seem like collectables. They come a lot closer to cr-p than collectable. How do people, not see this? It’s so obvious!

I’m going to ask you guys again, Lets stop with the cursing and the complaining to this site. We did not manufacture these cameras. The language problem that started a few days ago on the SONY HX200V has to stop or they won’t let anyone post to these reviews. Please keep it clean and be kind to each other.

Have just read the review. I think it would have been helpful to have included some sort of appraisal of the camera’s image quality at its 8MP settings, e.g. a few sample photos and/or a brief comparison in the text of the review.

I know the argument- it’s marketed as a 16MP camera and should therefore be judged accordingly etc. On one level I think this fair enough. However, for those who don’t want large prints and would be prepared to consider buying the camera for use at the lower resolution, some sort of evaluation (for comparison) would have been useful.

Tina Edwards, That sounds like a good idea to me. I will ask Mark to take some of these ideas into account. Most cameras in this class default to about 50% of their total MP count. If every shot was taken at the highest Mega pixel count, they would take longer to download, print and even to shoot, as the buffer and memory have to clear before you can start shooting again.

Usually the settings on the camera don’t specify the MP count but they usually say Basic, Normal and Fine. The Fine setting would be the highest MP count. The words may vary for each manufacturer, but I think most people will understand. (that is, if they look) Remember, if the photos are just for the web, people will not be very happy if they take too long to download. That’s a very good point Tina!. I’ll bet your pictures are very good!

Hi dear JOE PRETE,
Unfortunately my english language is not good and there will be much much and much mistakes in my article, so sorry but I wish you can understand what I am trying to tell you, maybe it will be bothering to read but I hope you have enough patience!
Its better to know eachother first;
My real name is XERXES I am 31 and living in a meaddle eastern country (my misfortune!!!)
I am loving the photography and the photography is big part of my life, so I decided 4 years ago to have a big good camera shop as my job, now I proudly can tell you I have the best and biggest camera shop in my city (est. 500000 pop) and I am the only professional camera seller in here. I am teaching basic principles of photography every weekend for some people. Camera and related business are very very expensive here and just a little of people can afford a nice camera over $500. 80 percent of sold cameras are under $250 here!!! One sample: canon G1 X is abuot $800 in the US and its just 1/4 of a regular income but here it cost about 16000000Rls of our money and it is 3 TIMES OF A REGULAR INCOME!!!
I am not making good money in this job despite of my speciality and it could be much better in other jobs, but I love this world…
So I am not a PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHER, but I am a SERIOUS INSANE OBSESSIVE PHOTOGRAPHER. I have a little private museum for myself, yes a little museum fuul of treasures: MY CAMERAS, my own cameras, not for sale, these are all my private cameras in my house not in store, lets take a look:
Canon S1 IS (from 2004 and i love its 3.2mp images)
Canon S3 IS (from 2005 and i love it)
Canon SX1 (from 2008 and one of first CMOS sensores of that time)
Canon SX20 IS (from 2010 and hate it!!!)
Canon SX40 HS (from 2011 and like it so much)
Canon SX230 HS (from 2011 and very good camera)
Canon sx260 HS (from 2012 and sorry about it)
Canon G12 (from 2011 and OK)
Canon S95 (from 2011 and very good camera)
Canon S100 (from 2012 and sorry about it)
Canon G1 X (from 2012 and really impressed about it)
Canon SX130 IS (from 2010 and PRECISELY LOVE IT and PRAICE IT!!! Yes I tell you it has the best 1/2.3 inch CCD sensor in the world and very good coordination between the OPTICS, SENSOR, IMAGE PROCESSOR and IMAGE PROCESSING ALGORITHMES, try one it and you will believe what I am telling you)
Canon EOS600 D (the same T3 I in U.S and Kiss X5 in Japan from 2011 and realy love it)
NIKON D5100 (from 2011 and really love it)
NIKON P500 (from 2011 and just OK)
NIKON P510 (from 2012 and impressed of monstrous zoom)
NIKON L120 (from 2010 and hate it)
FUJIFILM X-S1 (from 2012 and sorry about it)
FUJIFILM HS10 (from 2010 and LOVE it, yes LOVE it)
FUJIFILM HS20 (from 2011 and its a big disaster)
FUJIFILM F200 EXR (from 2010 and OK)
SONY HX100V (from 2011 and I never use it)
SONY HX200V (from 2012 and its a CATASTROPHE!!!)
Panasonic TZ30 (ZS20 in U.K from 2012 and realy impressed about it)
And the last and the best of all:
PANASONIC DMC-FZ150 (from 2011 and I LOVE IT, IT PRAISE IT, I ADORE IT, REALy REALY REALY LOVE IT, ITS MESMERIZING, ABSOLUTELY BEST BRIDGE CAMERA OF ENTIRE WORLD TO DATE….)
As you can see I own all of the bridge cameras to date and I realy love this class of cameras.
And as you see I have just and only 2 DSLRs and I love both of them.
And as you see I have not any Compact System cameras like NIKON 1 or any micro 4/3 cameras or any interchangable cameras because I dont like them.
And ome of cameras that I owned them but sold them:
SONY HX1
Canon HX10 IS
Canon SX30 HS
Panasonic FZ100
...
And as you see I have no any of KODAK, PENTAX, OLYMPUS, RICOH, SIGMA, LEICA, MINOLTA and…
And becouse I am not an AUTHORIZED SELLER of a specific brand, I can sell any camera from any brand. But I’m focusing in 5 core brands:
Canon
NIKON
Panasonic
FUJIFILM
SONY
and recently growing SAMSUNG cameras.
So now surely you know more about me.
I love to travel and tour and I spend much for this. In 85 percent of times I use my BELOVED Lumix FZ150 becouse of realy impressive image and video quality, and some times I use my second LOVED Canon SX130 IS and enjoing its unbelievable quality for the price, other cameras I love are Canon SX40 HS, Canon G1X, Canon S95, NIKON D5100.
But lets focus on latest bridge cameras;
1) PANASONIC DMC-FZ150 (The King of Bridges)
2) Canon SX40 HS (The best Bridge Camera Canon ever made)
3)NIKON COOLPIX P510 (I am not happy with 16mp Sensor)
4)SONY HX100 V (NICE BUT MORE BETTER CAMERAS ARE AVAILABLE and 16mp is too much)
5)NIKON COOLPIX P500 (12mp sensor and acceptable quality)
6)FUJIFILM HS 30 (I cant accept the results we have more better cameras to choice)
7)SONY HX200V (A real CRAP, EXACTLY C R A P sorry)
8)FZ 100 (OUT OF DATE)
9)SX 30 (OUT OF DATE)
10)HS 20 (OUT OF DATE)
.
.
.
And now lets criticise the cameras and PHOTOGRAPHYBLOG:
If you would recommend the best BRIDGE camera in the list above wich one will be your recommendation?
If quality of results matters we can recommend the only 1st and 2nd and 3rd cameras on the list. 1st for them who pay attention to more video options and quality and some margin options like 3d photography, raw format, 12 fps burst mode, and some others. The 2nd is good for everyday use of mega zoom, good photo and video quality without any additional options and 3rd for the people like to use GPS and geotagging and monstrous zoom.
CAN YOU RECOMENT ALL OF CAMERAS DESPITE WE HAVE MORE BETTER ONES AT SAME TIME? SURELY NO!
Can you tell me how manu people are using 3d photography, 360 and 180 panorama, GPS, Highspeed recording for super slowmotion playing and…? I as a top camera seller and user can tell you NOTHIG and NO NONE!!! Some people using this options in first days of purchase and just for fun and hubby!!! Nothing more. The real importance that matters are: IMAGE QUALITY and VIDEO QUALITY nothing more.
WHY PHOTOGRAPYBLOG JUST ONLY RECOMENDED THE 12MP CANON SX40 LIKE THE SX30 AND EVEN NOT TAKEN JUST 3 GOOD PHOTOS BY SX40?!! MOST OF THE PICTURES TAKEN ON MIATURE EFFECT MODE!!!
AND WHY PHOTOGRAPHYBLOG HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CAMERAS LIKE SONY HX100V AND FUJI HS30?!! DESPITE OF LOTS OF DEFECT IN TERMS OF IMAGE QUALITY?!!!
THE FIRST DUTY OF A CAMERA IS TAKING GOOD PICTURES THEN OTHER OPTIONS. ARE THE HX200 AND HS30 CAPABLE OF CAPTURING GOOD IMAGES???
Look at the noise, look at the very low details, look at the chromatic abberation, look at the unnatural colours, LOOK AT THE OIL PAINTING LIKE IMAGES without any detail….
And then HIGHLY RECOMEND THIS @#$% SONY HX200?!!!
Sony is struggling hard, Sony is failing, Sony is going to die… you know why? I know, becouse of screwing the costumers with silly numbers, Sony is cheating simple minded people, 18mp in a tiny sensor??? My 2011 NIKON D5100 DSLR with DX FORMAT LARGE SENSOR has only 16 mp and then…
What about Sony’s 12000 WATT HiFi audio systems? What about Sony’s 1000000000:1 contrast ratio display? So What SONY? You are going to die by this silly mistakes, you are going to die by this abuse of numbers, DO NOT SCREW THE PEOPLE…
I love PHOTOGRAPHYBLOG and I want to see some more detaild tests and results of cameras and fairly judged recommendations.
I will come back with some new suggestions for comparing results…
Thanks Mr. JOE to read this long nonesenses.

Can you tell me from your experience which camera deliver better IQ: Canon SX40HS or Nikon P510.
I am on the way o buy new bridge and I find out that those two are really good (and I checked and compared all possible images from both and all others which I found it on the net).
Can you shoot, please, a few images of the same motive at wide angle and at max optical zoom with P510, SX40HS and FZ150 and put them on the net in full resolution (on the Imageshack,Picasaweb or similar free web page)? like there which is a very nice “real photo samples review” of the Olympus SP-810 UZ:https://picasaweb.google.com/106913078899624028286/ZoomExperiencesWithOlympusSP810UZ

Dear YOCO let me tell you a little advice:
Approximately 800 mm zoom in 35mm equivalent is realy enough for every situation in photography.
In my opinion the 24x 600 mm zoom of PANASONIC FZ150 is realy enough for me but maybe some people like more zoom, then the SX40 HS is better solution for them. Dont change a little extra zoom with a nice optimized 12mp sensor. And if monstrous zoom is very important for you then you can buy a PANASONIC FZ150 and a teleconverter from RAYNOX or PANASONIC original accessories. with a 2x teleconverter you can zoom to far and beyond by 1200 mm eqv!!! It’s much more than even P510.
Do not forget my ranking;
1) PANASONIC FZ150
2) CANON SX40 HS
3) NIKON P510
The two 12mp sensors of the FZ150 and SX40 HS have better performance, low noise and a little more detail in comparison with P510’s 16mp sensor.
This is a LAW: lower pixel=better IQ and lower noise.
And about sending samples; I am living in a FORBIDEN COUNTRY. All of social websites is blocked here and we have no any access to PICASA, FLICKR, YOUTUBE and all other social networks. We can not upload anything or send any file. Sorry about that. I hope these can help you to find better solution for yourself. And do not forget the big advantage of a swivel display (FZ150 and SX40 HS)over a just tilting display (P510) in terms of creativity in professional photography. Good Luck.

Guys (and Girls), I’ve been reading your comments and I left Mark another message. I understand (most) of what you are saying. Just please remember that there are many cameras to review. I wouldn’t call it an easy job that’s for sure. I can tell you that you’ll never make everyone happy. There’s always going to be a different view.

I see the the HS30EXR’s price is coming down, so maybe Fujifilm is listening. Guys, those really long letters with lists really take up a lot of room, and they get a little hard to understand (I had to read it 3 times) Please try to limit them to 2 or 3 paragraphs. Sokhoomora I really can’t understand having so many cameras. I would put them up for sale before the values drop to near nothing. They are not collectors items. Keep 1 or 2 that you like the best and try to get some of your money back.

What really needs to happen? SOMEBODY please make the perfect camera: Zillion megapixels, fisheye to 2000mm zoom, above-reproach IQ, and sell it for a hundred dollars.

I am so worn out to all these posts with folks carping about all these niggling things that have way more to do with tests than actually taking pictures.

Listen, friends: Every camera has its great features, a few foibles, and a few things that probably need to be sent back to the drawing board. But then, what product doesn’t? Just buy what fits what you do, learn what it likes and doesn’t like, and go shoot pictures and stay off the Internet UNTIL you come back with a card full of pics and a thorough knowledge of your camera, THEN post your criticisms and suggestions. Specs don’t make great pictures, photographers do. The Art is in the artist, not the instrument.

Image quality can be measured objectively, there is evidence in several places that the measure OBJECTIVELY, as the site naming Yoco (# 16).
Here he makes a note 4 to this camera in this respect, this is strange considering the ratings on this site have had cameras in the competition, with less noise, more sharpness and overall image quality. This betrays the trust of readers who trust us and we go by their reviews.
What the photographer and the artist is a true story, but what I have written above is true for all, without nuance, and to qualify the instrument or tool is a responsibility of the reviewer that can not be subjective, and if so is makes suspect the reason. I like the proposal fuji, but I’m not unconditional.

I sent mine back in 2 days to Amazon. Mine was the HSR25EXR which is the same camera with AAs.
Reasons:
1. Made in China
2. Flimsy battery compartment
3. Ultra high level of noise
5. Terrible initial image quality on Auto Fine and EXR modes.
6. Useless viewfinder.
7. When turned sideways LCD went dark.
8. Overall, a cheap uneasy feel about this camera, which I am sure will do just fine for those who don’t care about things as much as I do.

There is no perfect camera , I gave up trying to find it, I also gave up using one DSlr and many lenses, I decided to have a different compact camera for each situation and so I carry now the Sony HX200, the Fuji X10 (extraordinary camera) and the Canon SX260. I must say that I had in the past almost all the cameras mentioned by Sokhoomora and I respect his opinions but I only fully agree with the SX130 a very ood camera but as almost always Canon puts a low resolution LCD like they did with the Canon SX40, along with a small EVF and so so focus and limited features.
I had the Fuji HS10 and HS20 and liked them a lot but lack of digital zoom , overheating problems, poor stabilization, stiff zoom ring made me give up on them.
I went to buy the new Fuji HS30 but 2 different shop owners told me they didn’t want to sell Fuji anymore, too many problems with the HS20 model, never heard it before but they were really angry. After getting the Fuji X10 I fell in love with the brand and intend to buy the HS30 but I will wait a little longer for user reviews.
Meanwhile the HS200 is absolutely extraordinary, maybe Sokhoomora got a deffective one, the array of features is amazing and now I can get HDR with tone mapping by just pressing one button and get surreal images,even in black and white, many different modes and possibilities, not to mention the outstanding movies, sharpnes, fast focus and overall operational speed. Digital zoom is the best I’ve seen.
Fuji handling, macro, controls and EXR modes always pleased me and I hope this one will please me too, just waitng for users reviews.

Hey guys, here’s an idea for all of you (girls too) Go to the major manufacturers Home Websites and register for their newsletters. What you will get are tips, videos on shooting, lighting, portraits, just about every shooting tip there is, you can get them from each manufacturer. Yes, you will get info on new cameras, but for the educational videos and tips, it’s well worth your time. Give it a shot, if you don’t like it, just click the discontinue link. But I think you’ll like them, and it’s free!

SOKHOOMORA,
I think of the Bridge cameras you listed, the Canon G 1X has the largest sensor (bigger than APS-C or DX) but it’s not fast enough for action. That’s it’s only downfall. The Nikon P510 I think has the longest reach, and should be fast enough for action, You listed an EOS 60D, I think that’s a Canon DSLR, so that would be my choice. I think that’s the one that just got rebuilt into an infrared camera, but I’m not positive.

If owning all these cameras did anything, it would probably confuse you. I shoot Nikon, and I can pick up any Nikon and use it without reading the guide. I hope you can recover most of your money, I feel bad for you in this situation. Bridge cameras drop value faster than any other class. The XS-1 was way, way overpriced. It should have been with the other Bridge cameras from the start. Good Luck to you.

I have had the HS30 for over a month,and despite some of the more unbalanced comments on this blog(that chap with dozens of superzoom cameras needs professional help!),I think Mark’s review was spot on,and the HS30 can turn out some great prints,and the lens is great(up to 60x zoom).
It’s not a DSLR,but it’ll get you pictures your DSLR won’t,and it’s more like a “proper” camera than any of it’s rivals,and I have owned several Panasonic FZ series cameras.
So well done Mark for another great review,and well done Fuji!

That should boils down to some 24 odd combination of the market; thus manufacturer tried to produce camera for each segment, but then as marketing thingies goes, it won’t always bull’s eye, thus “complaining users”, “fanatics”, “flamers”, “stereotyping”, etc.

Shure thing, blame it on economy, after all it’s about “getting the most with least amount of effort (money)”; so does the manufacturer & so does the buyer.

Now, the thing is to let market mechanism played their role, in the end the price is always right. (good camera will retain their market value, even 2nd hand while others will getting price cut).
Buyers?? back to the first paragraph!

oh, I own Fuji HS20 and accepting it as an average camera. As I got mine 2nd hand (1 week old in the hand of previous owner, proved by receipt of purchase) for a very proper price (not cheap, but not as expensive as brand new), I felt quite happy with it and stop pushing it beyond it’s technical limitation.

ISO 800 noise is not acceptable even with 16MP (by that I mean: It is highly visible on gradient/flat textures even when the image is reduced to 1-2MP) :/

IDK if the Low Noise setting in the EXR mode for 8MP would do much help :[

I really like Fujifilm cameras for their manual controls, but right now an old Canon Powershot SX220 (or SX230) sound a much better deal. That said, prices usually come down a few months after the release.

Or the Panasonic FZ150 if a bridge ultra zoom is really a requirement.

To tell the true any camera is fine as long as it meets your wallet/expectations balance. For example, on a budget, Canon A1200 is probably a very nice camera to have.

I have been bitterly disappointed with the grainy quality of the images, even in RAW mode on a say 200ASA setting. Overall the colour reproduction is dull and flat when compared with shots taken on my 6 year old Canon 350D. When using the EXR setting to ‘point and shoot’, the images appear slighlty over exposed with a great deal of contrast.

Yesterday when I tried backing up my photo files to my Mac I found out that the .RAF (Fuji Raw) files are not compatible with my 5 year old Macbook. Come on, who designs a camera with a RAW format that cannot be opened in a Mac straight off?

When using the EXR setting to ‘point and shoot’, the images appear slighlty over exposed with a great deal of contrast.

I guess I have to try and balance my review with some positives. The zoom is very powerful and the image stabilisation is a great aid when taking pictures this way. The buttons and functionability are easily accessible.

Sadly though, the proof of the pudding is in the final image quality, and this camera just does not match up to my expectations for the price of £369.00 that I paid for it.

Dave w, You expected DSLR results from a pea shooter that everyone’s complaining about? Generally, you get what you pay for! Bring it back/sell it, add some funds to it and buy a real camera. It sounds like you have Champagne taste and Beer pockets. I’m not trying to sound like a wise guy, but there’s really no nice way to say it. The worst thing is, I think you already know this. Look on the web for real owner or reviewer comments. (Not the idiots that think the comments section is a chat room) but look for the better web sites, find what you think you need and research it this time. There are many OTHER sites if you get my drift, where you’ll find what you need. Good Luck Dave

Dave W.,
I was wondering how you’re doing. A couple of things I wanted to mention, if the macbook is running 10.4.11 you’re going to find a lot of camera software that is not compatible. Aside from the Fuji raw files, I couldn’t use the software from Panasonic DMC FZ100 at all. I did that review on a PC. I think it would’ve worked on the macbook pro. About the Fuji, did you have the Disc printed into a fullsize manual? It’s a lot easier than reading it off the screen.

I found that necessary for the HS20EXR, I also used a spiral binding so it’s easy to flip to the page you need. Let us know how you’re doing, or if you returned it. The US price is down to $409 now. Try to get back to us, maybe one of us (readers) can give you some advice. Despite all the problems that turned up, a lot of people are still using these Fuji’s. I didn’t mean to offend you on the last post, I guess I’m still annoyed at Fuji for all the things they could have easily fixed, but didn’t.

I’ve had my 30 for a few weeks now and I’m very pleased. My old camera was an S6500 which was (is) great but getting long in the tooth. The 30 out of the box isn’t set up for optimal settings and it does take some research and some hands on to find the best settings.
My advice to people is don’t expect it to be a DSLR, it’s not. DSLR’s cost from any where from $1K to several thousand dollars. Enjoy the camera for what it is a fully featured bridge camera that takes very reasonable pictures for it’s price.

After a few weeks of use I’m finding that my current shots are leaps ahead of what I first snapped so a bit of reading and practice greatly helps.

From most of the complaints I get a feeling that the writers didn’t do research before buying their camera or failed to do some basic research after. Although the HS30 is supposed to be a straight point and shoot camera it’s a bit more than that and I wouldn’t recommend it as a first time user’s camera.
Once proficient in use some excellent material can be produced by this camera.
Enjoy!

Sol, That sounds pretty close to my experience with the HS20EXR, the basic book that they give with a fairly complicated camera does more harm than good. Most times I can take a camera and use it well, without even looking at the book. Not so with the Fuji. Once I had the disc printed, and learned the functions, I found the camera was very capable, and turned out some real nice prints. I’m waiting to hear back from DAVE W, hoping that we can help him out. I’m glad it worked out okay for you Sol.

Hello, I am very very pleased with my HS30 except for ONE thing. I am sure that it is my lack of understanding of the camera, so perhaps someone might me able to help me please? whether I save pics as RAW or JPEG the quality is terrible on my computer screen. where other cameras have delivered a crisp vibrant picture, in the same image editing programme, the photos I took on the HS30 are not crisp and vibrant. Please help! I really dont want to be disappointed with it!
thank you!

For most of the cases you cannot open RAW files directly on an imaging application and have to process them first, they should be present with an extension file different from .JPG or .JPEG

Vibrant colors depends on several factors:
Color accuracy, this is something you can’t do anything about as it is a characteristic of the sensor/lens.
Shooting mode, HS30 EXR has lots of shooting modes, try P, A, S, M or EXR modes for more natural results.
Film Simulation, this is a type of shooting mode that greatly affects the color reproduction.
I’m not sure if that HS30 EXR has fine settings for the film simulation or other modes, check the manual of the camera for that.
In some rare/extreme cases, white balance can wash away the colors. Likewise, high ISO values usually give desaturated images, check if you don’t have ISO or White Balance set manually to some erroneous value.

About the crispness or sharpness, if you are shooting at 16MP and seeing at 100% magnification (1 pixel of the image is 1 pixel of the screen) things are never that sharp. At 50% they should look acceptable, depending on the ISO of the photo. The best way is to print the photo for the desired size. Usually some ‘good’ 6~8MP are more than enough to print A4 sizes, even if the original 16MP look somewhat bad when viewed up close.

In addition to all that, EXR mode allows you to get 8MP with better dynamic range, noise and color, you may find it more suitable to shoot in those sub-modes.

Pippa, You and most of the others who posted here seem to have more knowledge than Fujifilm, the supposed maker of these cameras. I would say to you: Contact the tech support, but they’ll never understand you. They only know how to remove & replace part assemblies. It’s kind of a “Pot Luck” repair job. I got the older HS20EXR for a review, but even that one needed a lens/sensor assy. replaced. After that, I got through the review okay, but the camera probably hasn’t been used since.

That is what happens with 90% of these plastic cameras. Fabio seemed to have better results with it, you can try asking him. I really feel bad for the person that can only afford one camera, and it turns out to be some subcontracted mess that was never fixed on the previous versions. I’m not saying that you should buy SONY, PANASONIC, NIKON OR CANON, but I would, AND I DO! They have a name to protect.

Even if they subcontract, it’s still under strict guidelines, like a Panasonic with a “Leica” lens, of course Leica didn’t make the lens, it’s just Leica’s formula and approved glass. Too many people never read the fine print. If Leica did make those lenses, we wouldn’t be able to afford the cameras!

Nikon never stated that their “Coolpix” cameras had lenses made entirely of glass until me and several others called them on it time after time. Only now do they specify that the “coolpix” lenses are “all glass”
B/T/W thanks to all of you who helped out with that one!

So Pippa, my advice would be to first have a conversation with Fabio about your situation, and if you have to go through Fuji, make as much noise as you can, I hope your situation can be resolved, but remember, Fuji always comes out with a new model, instead of fixing the last one! (the HS10,20,25,30 are all the same camera! They should have fixed the first model before coming out with more problems) Learn from this, and next time wait until all the reviews are in.

Also, they all get Firmware updates, so don’t let that stop you. (I just got a firmware update for the Nikon D700, it’s like 4 years old! at least they back their equipment!) Good Luck to you Pippa, and please don’t let this effect your interest in photography. If Fabio doesn’t reply here, I think he posts on Flickr ...... Joe Prete

TO Pippa, The post by Zebarnabe posted at the same time as mine, he seems to have a very good understanding of the situation. A lot of the “Professional” reviews are not as good as an actual “user review” This may be somebody’s “only” camera, so the users are more determined to work the bugs out. Try to speak to these users, and if you still need help, I’ll call their repair department for you. I know a few of their repair guys for a couple of years now and they are willing to help. Keep us up to date on this okay? I’ll check back in a couple of days. Good Luck Pippa

To Pippa
It’s very hard to understand what’s happenning, we have no information at all. You said you are happy wiith the camera, but the quality of the pictures is very bad.
What’s the problem, blurry pictures, noisy , bad collors, lack of resolution, the pictures are bad even not zooming in, lack of sharpness ?
I’m absolutely sure you can get very good pictures from this camera, I don’t know what’s yout experience with photography, but first don’t shoot in RAW, leave the camera in auto EXR or P, and check what’s the size of the files use large 4:3 and quality, in fine, ISO 100 , open your files directly from the SD card, not from the camera, do some tests and let us now.
I had the chance to play with one HS30 and the EVF is really good, found a review of the HS25 with very good images, I’m sure that level of quality can be achieved with your camera.

thank you for your response. It is a lot to let sink in. I do hope this hasn’t been a mis-buy. Yes, I am one of the people who can only afford one camera. And that was why i was able to be persuaded this was the ebst buy for someone with limited cash, knowledge and Fibromyalgie (which makes lugging lenses and bags around as difficult as holding a heavy camera in the first place.) Everything I was supposed to pay attention to sounded perfect. All the lenses in one, fantastic optic zoom, 16 mega pixels, great “dummy” settings…. and yes, I swayed. I went in for a canon/nikon and came out with…... BUT, I am determined that for a beginner this can be a terrific camera and not just a piece of plastic. Once again, I hope my troubles come down mostly to my ignorance.

@Fabio, my pictures are grainy, blurry and dull. I originaly shot in jpeg. low mb, 72 dpi. I opened an image shot with a nikon that same week, same editing programme, beautiful queality photo, vibrant colours, you could see the soft hairs on my son’s cheeks. The nikon was 300dpi and alot higher mb. can’t remember how much at this moment. SO I tried to shoot in RAW and once developed I had a picture with 500 MB and 300 dpi, but the quality of the photo had not changed at all. I am very pleased with the shooting aspects of this camera, but less happy with the results I encounter on the PC. I am sorry that is the best i can do to explain my problem, as I have zero knowledge. All I know is what I like to take photos of! Thank you all for taking the time to reply.

Pippa,
Don’t get discouraged, try to follow what Fabio is saying. set the camera on the settings he’s telling you. That way he’ll know what results you should be getting. I tell everyone to get the disc printed into a full size manual so you can learn, step at a time. The basic guide is too basic to be helpful. In the meantime, work with Fabio and go one step at a time. He can determine if it’s the camera, or if it’s you. It’s probably not a defective unit. I assume you’re using the Fuji software. All settings alike, you should get the same results as Fabio. He may need to see the photos. Don’t give up now Pippa, you have help! And b/t/w, Thank You Fabio!

I’d like to buy a camera, and I’m a beginner, but would like to learn more with manual settings. I hesitates between entry level dslrs and bridge cameras, and realised bridges are more affordable for me (without the need of buying proper objectives as well)
I went through many-many reviews, but I still can’t decide.
So i would like to ask your opinion on wchich one’s the best! :)

My requirements for the camera:
Price should be among 300-470$ (though prices here in Hungary are more than in the USA)
Manual settings (mainly interested in manual focus, preferably with ring on the lens barrel)
Sharp and nice colorful images with as low noise as possible
min. 12 MP
good (full)HD video

To Zani
The fact is that bridge cameras are probably the most difficult to operate, it’s difficult to find the best settings and people who buy them expecting to learn photography and then move to a DSLR are going the wrong way. It’s much easier to get good pictures with auto settings in DSLRs , and if you want to use manual settings the controls are better placed, everything works better and faster, and manual focus is possible but not very easy, even with a much better viewfinder, most DSLR needs a differnt focusing screen to be able to really get perfect manual focus.
If you want manual focus on a bridge, you won’t get precision, you don’t have a good image to work with, the only time manual focus is usable is when shooting distant objects like the moon or airplanes and you set manual and keeps it in infinite, or when you need to lock focus , use auto and change to manual, them auto focus won’t keep searching and wasting time.
I don’t know why you need manual focus, but auto focus on Sony works very fast and it’s very precise, faster and better than Canon or Fuji. The new Sony HX200 is even faster than Hx100.
Movies are a different story, DSLRs are difficult to work , auto focus is not very good and the shallow depth of field makes things worst, they are great if you are very experienced, and the wonderfull evf is useles for movies,but bridges are very good, Panasonic and Sony are the best in movies, Fuji is good but you can’t zoom smoothly because the zoom is manual. Canon SX40 has a lousy LCD, small and low resolution as is the EVF, it has no features at all that make a bridge camera funny and even panoramas are stitched, impossible to get with that LCD.
In order to get the most from a bridge camera you need knowledge and experience , otherwise you will get lost in the great amount of settings and scene modes, a basic DSLR is the way to go for beginners who want good photos and want to learn photography. I personally gave up using them, my DSLR and lenses are collecting dust, I carry with me a Fuji X10, a Sony HX200 and a pocket size Casio ZR100 , all extraordinary cameras that cover almost all photo situations, no one is easy to get the best settings, but I have 40 years of experience with manual cameras, rangefinders and reflexes, so I have a good idea of what to do to get the best from them.

Zani,
The best way to learn is with manual settings, even manual focus. You’ll build a good foundation, and it’s easier to learn if you do it before getting involved with an auto everything camera. There are several basic DSLR’s on the market starting at the $500.00 range. That’s with a starter or “kit” lens, usually an 18-55MM.

Of course you’ll also have the option of setting it on “Auto” if you have to, with auto focus, you’ll have the best of both worlds, but you’ll get the education at the right time: The beginning! Ultimately, you’ll have the option of getting a 55-200MM (Even to 300MM) or try to substitute the 18-55 for an 18-200, either way, you’ll wind up with a one or two lens set-up, pick up a flash and case along the way and you’ll have everything you need to learn and to grow into.

Investment wise, this is the best choice because Bridge camera values drop like a rock, the second you leave the store. Pentax is a good name, sony, Canon, Nikon, I believe they all have starter sets that may be most of everything that you’ll ever need. Depending on what you’ll like to shoot, a tripod, some filters, Media cards (likely SDHC) are very inexpensive.

You may end up saving up a few more bucks now, but it will be well worth it down the road. If you have beginners interest now, once the Photo bug bites, we all go forward, so try to start on the right track. There is a used marked, so if you really had to, you could save a little money on a used DSLR.

Go to some shops, or find someone in the field, try to hold a few different brands, so you see what you like. I would say Pentax or Sony, they both have a full selection, and they are very user friendly and comfortable to hold. If you get a Bridge, to work your way up, that time will be about 2 weeks from the time you start. Very few Bridge cameras are easy to shoot in manual.

Many Amex or Visa cards offer 1 yr extended coverage, so you shouldn’t have to worry about extra insurance (almost always a waste anyway) Check into that where you live. You will probably wind up with a medium size case, a DSLR, one or two lenses (one with the 18-200MM Zoom) a Flash, Filter and SDHC cards (two 4GB is better than one 8GB) So, not much to carry, keeps it’s value, easy enough to learn and built to use for several years.

Seems like a No Brainer to me! For maybe a $100.00 difference, but you’ll be happy with your choice.

Hey Fabio, sounds like we’re about the same age, I’ve got just over 40 years in Photography myself! ...... Joe Prete

every user of a fujifilm exr knows that to get maximum benefit to quality must shoot at half resolution EXR mode, I take pictures free of noise at iso on 800 (SN mode), this review was not published any pictures EXR mode.

Thank you very much for all your advices! Finally I decided to buy a Canon 1100D (in a 18-55mm lens kit), all in all, with the bag and the memory card it was more money than i wanted to spend, but anyway… I can “upgrade” it later with lenses. I just can’t wait to recieve it and start to use it, I’m so excited :D
Thanks again!! :)

Zani,
Excellent choice! Known here as the T3, there’s a few in the series now, but any one of them is a great start for you. You’re right, with the 18-55 you can add a 55-250MM or one in that range, and you’re good to go! If I remember correct, that Canon lens is not very expensive.

I think you should look for the reviews while you’re waiting (try dpreview) and when you get it, read that manual! It will have a basic guide because they know you’ll be anxious but then read the manual cover to cover.

It may have cost more, but it will retain it’s value. I’m very happy for you. It’s a real nice feeling, getting a new camera. This may seem obvious, but attach the strap correctly before you take it off he table, and get in the habit of using the strap always.

Enjoy it, and use it well. I wish you the best of luck, it’s a fine camera. Congratulations!

Bought this camera recently. Had exposure problems. All the pictures I took was all over exposed. I tried all exposure settings but to no avail. There is either a fault with the camera I purchased or there is a exposed issue with this camera, either way I am returning the camera from where I bought it. I would not purchase another one.

Tony,
Looking at the image samples on PB, it seems that, like Kodak Z990, HS30 has a tendency to overexpose the image (between half to one stop I would guess), it is not much of a issue if it is consistent, my mirrorless camera like to underexpose a bit for example, long does the day where metering systems didn’t exist (I have one of those cameras, it is completely manual and you have to ‘guess’ how much to expose).

At least in this camera you have lots of manual control over the shooting, you can always use EV compensation to make it work. Also, remember that EXR DR mode allows you to extend the dynamic range quite effectively, making it harder to get over/under exposed shots.

This camera is good for someone that wants to learn how to use manual controls, but if one wants something easier to shot with, most of the other bridges/compacts are a best bet.

Panasonic’s FZ150 is probably the best, but it is more expensive, SX40 is not a bad choice, but that zoom range has an impact in image quality, Kodak Z990 is very cheap, you pay what you get. Furthermore, you also have travel zoom compact cameras currently have 20x zoom range, are cheaper and smaller.

If you really like photography, a bridge camera might not enough once you reach a certain point of experience/knowledge, thus being priced so close to an entry level DSLR it makes it wiser to get one.

If you want a camera to carry around to record images when you travel, travel zoom cameras (they have that name for a reason, it was ‘created’ by Panasonic with their TZ series) are probably a better choice. Unless you really need those huge zoom ranges.

TONY,
Have you done what I’ve told everyone many, many times what to do first? I’ll say it one more time! Resist the urge to start shooting with the camera. 1ST)Take the CD to a Printer, have them print up a full size, coil bound, double sided book of the owners manual. It costs about $12.00 US. 2ND)Read the manual front to back. If you don’t thoroughly understand it, read it again. 3RD) Put the strap on the camera, batteries and media card. Now start to shoot, one mode at a time, learn how to use it. This camera can be the BEST or the WORST camera you’ve ever used, but it all depends on your understanding how to use it.

Only at this time, you can make a determination of wether the camera is faulty. Speak to tech. support. I know several people earning a living with this camera. I’ve taken fantastic HIGH DYNAMIC RANGE Photographs with the HS20EXR (The 2nd version) and I’ve heard your story so many times that this will be the LAST time I respond to it. The only thing Fuji did wrong was provide a basic guide. Throw that guide in the garbage and use a full owners manual. There are few cameras around that can take high quality HDR PICTURES like the FUJI, and there are no other cameras with EXR mode as it is owned by FUJIFILM.

I was going to buy the SONY DSC-hx200v for myself yesterday but as I entered the shop, the shopkeeper suggested me THIS camera and he totally confused me! He asked me to check out the reviews of both and the SONY really did impress me, but this one looks awesome too. Could somebody please suggest me which one I should prefer buying?

Okay so, I was going to buy the SONY DSC-HX200v camera few days ealier, but the shopkeeper confused me by suggesting THIS camera. I was pretty much impressed by everything that the SONY had but now Im really confused. Could anyone please suggest me the right one?
And also, I wanted slow motion in SONY but there isn’t, any better camera which has it?

To Faiz
The only way to be sure about wich one to choose would be to read a number of reviews from people who had or still have both cameras, I have the Sony HX200 and I like it very much, I had the Fuji HS10 and the HS20 and I also liked them a lot. I really like Fuji.
I tested the new HS30 and the EVF is the best of all bridge cameras, the controls and the feeling are very good, the EXR modes are great, and it can produce excellent photos including macros, the hot shoe allows you to use an external flash that will create a much better look in indoor situations like a children’s party and there’s a filter thread, Sony needs an adaptor.
The main problem with Fuji is the manual zoom if movies are important for you, overall, Sony’s movies are better and zooming more natural, Sony also has a motorized zoom that can be used also turning the zoom ring in the lens body.
Sony is more compact, and can create some outstanding Tone mapped HDR right from the camera, I’ve posted some on Flickr and people can’t believe there is no computer work involved in them , illustration and watercolor modes are very fun to use too and can create art work instantly, it’s a very competent camera but no slow motion. Focus is also faster in Sony’s.
The Canon Sx40 can do slow motion and movies better than Fuji , image quality is good but the evf and the lcd are small and low resolution, really bad if you compare with other bridge cameras, there’s also a hot shoe. I didn’t like it but if slow motion movies and movies are important may be the best choice.
It’s getting more confusing, I know. I’m sure someone will bring the Panasonic FZ150 also to the discussion. Good luck !

Not to confuse things anymore, but the new Samsung Superzoom was just released overseas and it will be here next. I think it will cost less than the others.

You should go to http://www.digitalcamera-hq.com Speak to Chris Weigl and tell him Joe Prete sent you. He’s been working mainly on this part of the market and he may just have the time now, to explain the ups and downs of the whole group to you. Every owner you speak to is going to tell you his is best. Chris doesn’t have anything to gain by swaying you to one brand or another. I’m glad you were smart enough to walk out of the store without being swayed.

Chances are you’ll be buying on line or over the phone, but speak to Chris Weigl first. Good Luck,
Joe Prete

This is my 6th Bridge Camera and my first Fuji. I also have four thirds and micro four thirds cameras, but I prefer using bridge cameras.

Bridge cameras are perhaps the most difficult cameras to work with out of any type of camera. They are challenging because their small sensors produce poor dynamic range. They do NOT do well in low light, and noise is always an issue.

That said, I love my HS30. Providing that you understand how it operates and why you will get better results depending on what you do, its a great camera. But you have to know and understand the camera well.

If you are strictly an amerture starting out, then buy a Canon SX40 HS. It works better than most bridge cameras in “auto mode.” And you can graduate to taking manual pictures with ease.

But should a beginner purchase a bridge camera or an entry level SLR? I believe that the DSLR is a better coice for a newbie. The Canon T3 and the Nikon D3100 come to mind. You can also find some older Nikon D3000s on sale inn many cities around North America. I have seen them new for $350.

Bridge cameras are not great for learning photography because they a re much miore difficult to get good results with.

The Fuji HS 30/25 is a great bridge camera. Of course it is meant for more experienced photographers.

everyone talking on the performance of the camera, long zoom, etc. can anyone help telling me at what iso levels, mid or high, you won’t get noise. Thanks.
i have been reviewing this bridge camera, and no one talking about iso levels.

Sheldon,
I agree, they are quite a challenge as soon as you come off auto mode. You can learn all the functions correctly but it will take a very long time. I use it for the EXR mode. The High Dynamic Range is excellent! Several cameras have copied it, but none have matched it. The colors are vivid, like many of Fuji’s films. But I’ll tell you, if it was my only camera I would be quite frustrated. It does what it’s well known for very, very good. But take it out of that zone and it’s a real challenge. Someone asked about the ISO and the noise, don’t expect to go above ISO 800 without seeing noise. Like you said Sheldon, an SLR is better for learning and for general photography. You summed it up very well. I hope that people take your advice!

Sheldon Cwinn,
There’s the comment about the ISO, it showed on my screen before it went to the comments page but they’re in the correct order now. So the comment was from Kentish, asking how high at certain focal lengths before the “noise” becomes a serious consideration. Maybe you can go more into depth with your experience and also review with him your feeling on wether or not the HS20/25/30 EXR can be used as an “only” camera. I haven’t heard from Fabio for several weeks now (I hope he’s okay) But if you don’t mind, helping out Kentish to help him get on the right track. By the way, nice meeting you Sheldon and you too Kentish. I’ll watch to see how it turns out. ... Joe Prete

I really need help. I can’t decide which camera i should buy. Canon sx40-Nikon P510-Fujifilm hs30. I just want to take good pictures and videos. Please give me a result who had experience with those cameras.

Hi Emir,
You’re on the right track, that’s for sure. What you should do is make a list of the Pro’s and Con’s of each camera. From that list, see what better suites your own needs (Like the Nikon P510 has the longest Zoom Lens) That’s just an example of a cameras strong point. Also take the Price and date of release into consideration. (If the camera is out close to a year, the price should drop, as you’re close to the next model) But if it has everything you need, it will be fine so use that to you’re advantage. (There was very little difference in the Fujifilm HS20/25/30 So buying the HS20EXR you should save about 50%

Work with that and if you still need help, I’ll check for you’re post. Try to avoid asking owners of a certain model, they’ll always tell you that the one they have is the best. Also take the size, weight and Batteries into consideration. (AA’s will save you money) Use the list to help choose your own style. These are all solid well built cameras. Keep in touch Emir, we’ll talk again before you make your purchase. ... Joe Prete

Most of screens are not calibrated, furthermore, most of consumer screens are bad in color reproduction and contrast (specially in modern non-premium laptops), if there are some notable diferences between the image taken and shown in the camera screen and your computer screen, I suggest you try to calibrate it.

If it is a laptop, most likely the screen is just plain bad, no calibration can help in that case thus requiring you to get an external screen to view colors accurately.

If you want to check if it is really a calibration issue, check the same image in several different screens. That should give you a fairly assessment over your screen state or if there is a problem with the camera.

Fujifilm cameras are known for giving rich and saturated images out of the camera.

On the URL comment link (clicking my username) you can see a photo that most screens fail to reproduce correctly because of the rich pink color.

A similar case occurs with printers, where not only the printer itself but the paper as well matters.

If the problem is visible in the camera image preview function itself, then you may be applying some artistic filter that de-saturates the image colors.

Hi Alan,
The Nikon P510 is the latest version. The Zoom (equiv.) reaches 1000MM. I haven’t heard any complaints on the P500 or P510

Most people say that there’s not much difference between the Fujifilm HS20/25/30 EXR Cameras. But you can save about $200.00 by buying the earlier HS20EXR, which Zoom (equiv.) reaches 720MM. The EXR Mode confuses many, but is the cameras best feature. It also feels much like a DSLR.

Not to confuse you, but there are many cameras in this bracket. I suggest you read through the entries on each camera here, and of the many readers that know these models very well, some will reply to you very soon. Good Luck, it is a tough choice.
... Joe Prete

Hey Alan,
I’m not sure why no one wrote in yet, but my entries seem to pull them out of the woodwork and I don’t want to hold you up, so go ahead and fire away and I’ll help you to get started.

You should know, that we have nothing to gain from these entries except for helping out fellow Photographers. Recently, things got a little heated discussing the new Sony, but that’s in the past now and I don’t think there’s any hard feelings. Also, that camera started a new “class” of Digital Compact so it was bound to stir things up.

On this site, a few guys owned dozens of Bridge cameras, but at least one had a store, so he knows quite a bit about the differences in the cameras but of course that’s not necessary, just reading reviews and talking to a few people should help.
I’m doing this over 40 years now so I’ve seen many trends come and go, mostly with film, but a camera is still a camera.
Okay, I’ll talk to you later.
... Joe

GREETINGS…THIS IS A GREAT FORUM,GOOD TO SEE THE KEEPER IS LOOKING OUT FOR THOSE OF US WHO SEEK GOOD SOUND REVIEWING,THANK YOU…this one has grounding with box cameras,old style 35 mil film,a few compacts,dslr…now have a GE x 500,X15 ZOOM,it was cheap,it takes pictures some good some so,so…may need to learn more…the next step is a more complex camera with a better zoom capability…HAVE NARROWED DOWN TO /PANASONIC FZ 150/FUJIFILM HS 30/ CANON SX 40…WHAT SAY YE GENTLEMEN?????the prices all round are falling between AU$334.00 and AU$405.00 for any of the three…regards…r/c.

I actually have the HS25EXR which is a model that came out just before this one but after the HS20 - not widely sold, but it’s now a new item at Costco ($289.00) stores. The only real difference is the HS30 updated the screen resolution, viewfinder, and has RAW, whereas the HS25 uses AA batteries, has a 420p screen and no RAW. But both seem to have the exact same lens, JPG processing engine, etc.

So that being said, I would probably give this camera a “6 1/2 out of 10” overall, myself. The issue is that in order to get the very best image quality out of it, you really do need to use the Dynamic Range (DR) setting (200-400%) all the time, tweak the exposure and set the noise reduction and sharpening to “low”. The problem is, in DR mode the resolution is dropped to half of what it normally is (or slightly lower), so in reality you are using a 7 or so megapixel camera instead of a 16mp camera. When using it at it’s full resolution the artifacts are so strong and DR so short, even post processing can’t produce stellar results.

The handling is very comfortable and the zoom range is great. If you need to grab a quick pano shot the “sweep panorama” feature seems to work fairly well, too. I just wish the JPG processing was a bit cleaner - even noiseware professional has a hard time cleaning up the scratchy artifacts in the images.

Hi all, I want to start in the world of photography, I want to buy a camera to begin with, but I want one that will last me a while and good. I was thinking about buying a HS30EXR, but seeing the comments and researching a bit and is very similar to the SX40. I would like to know what do you recommend between the two and what are the key difference, or if there is another better than these two but desimilar price. Thanks for the info.

IVAN,
Read the 70 posts above yours, there’s a selection of similar questions. We don’t get anything for these replies. It’s all there like 5 times over. You have one new question, here is your solution. Get the Fujifilm HS20EXR. Read and you’ll know why. ... Joe Prete

I have read this entire comment section and found it (and the review) very useful. I am heavily considering buying the hs30 as i am in the same boat as Ivan.

I understand that your rationale for getting the HS20 is that it is very similar to the 30 and much cheaper. I am in the US (not sure what country you are in) but the 20 is not available at B&H anymore. On amazon, the 30 is $320 and the 20 is actually more expensive! (the 25 is 300).

would you agree that for the current $320 price the 30 is well worth the money?

JOSH
I don’t know what happened to Ivan. I’m glad that you found these comments helpful. I am in New York and also deal with B&H. I assume that everyone who caught on, saved the money and bought the HS20. If you give me a day to research this, I can look into what’s available and what you can save money on.

There have been newer models recently announced and they have the “EXR” Mode as well. I’m sure you know this is what gives you the High Dynamic Range (HDR). There was also some improvement in the lenses being used. I’ll go through the material and post back here on Monday about 10:00PM EST or before. Josh, I hope you’ve checked the box below to be notified.

IVAN, if you still need help, write back with your questions okay?
....... ... Joe

Joe
thanks for your quick response. i definitely am attracted to the EXR sensor on this camera and the fact that it has more (or easier to get to) manual control than the other popular cameras in its class.

Josh,
The newest Fujifilm cameras (ie.SL300) are a disappointment when compared to the EXR cameras. They use CCD sensors, they are good cameras for their price, but they don’t have any of the features you are looking for. It does look like the HS20EXR is bringing in the highest price, but it is essentially the same as the the HS25EXR. The HS30EXR is also the same as the 20 & 25 except that the HS30 battery is a rechargeable Lithium ion that shoots approximately 600 shots.

As we discussed, there is no reason to pay $500.00 for the HS20
The lowest prices that I found were at B&H and although J&R says they will match the price, that wasn’t so easy the last time that I called them on it. In the end I won, but it was not easy.

B&h has the HS25EXR for $282.00 Brand New (takes 4 AA"s incl)

B&H has the HS30EXR for $320.00 Brand New (Lith-ion Bat incl)

I prefer AA’s because they can be bought anywhere. They can go about half at 320 shots and rechargeable AA’s can shoot about 270 shots An extra Fuji battery is $47.22 (other brand $19.95)

The only reason that the 25 and 30 models would be better is that they have the newest Firmware available. I have an early HS20EXR that I had the sensor and firmware updated while it was under warranty. I wouldn’t want to part with my camera. The HS 25 and 30 Firmware does have a 3D Simulation mode And an expanded “Look of Film” Program, but to buy either model now, I don’t think you would need any updates as the series is complete from what they told me. These cameras have a 1/2 CMOS Sensor. Between the three of them, I don’t think we would notice any difference and at $282 or $320, I would get them while you can. Most people (me too) paid much more and despite all of the complaints, they were all bought up in a hurry, even the refurbished ones. The only thing better is the XS1

The $650.00 XS1 has a larger 2/3 inch EXR CMOS Sensor but it only zooms to 624mm not much of a difference, it takes the place of an SLR for many. So Josh, Ivan and anyone who’s interested, if you want one, don’t waste any time. Use a credit card that doubles the USA warranty so all you’ll need is an SDHC Card. Try to get a card rated at 10 so you won’t be waiting for the buffer. I hope you read above, my information about printing the manual and know that the camera is processing 4 images when everyone thought it was blacking out on them. There’s reviews here, b&h and a few other sites. Good Luck guys
... Joe Prete

JOSH and those interested in the HS25EXR,
Despite what I was told on the phone from Fujifilm the HS25EXR does not list RAW in the specifications under: File Format. This is printed material from Fujifilm. So if you are interested in shooting Raw, it does not appear to be a capability of the HS25

Joe,
thanks for all of your insights. I got my HS30 yesterday and (after reading the entire manual, of course) started shooting some pictures! I am very excited to learn how to use this camera to its full potential.

one thing i noticed when looking at the 25 and 30 is if you switch back and forth between pictures of the 2, the 25 definitely looks “cheaper”. One thing i noticed specifically in reviews were people who bought the 25 complaining that it felt cheap.

one of the first things i noticed about the 30 was how nice the evf is. this is also one of the big differences between the 30 and the 25.

Josh,
I’m glad it worked out for you. The Reps at Fujifilm almost caused a big mistake. It wasn’t until late that night that I printed out the spec sheets and made a line by line comparison, that’s when I saw the difference. I’m sure they’ll sell out the complete line anyhow, many people are happy with the new “S” line too.

Be sure to attach the strap that came with the camera, you may find that a “Wrist Grip” gives you better handling. I use the “Nikon Camera Holding Strap” it was a tight fit through the lug but I think you’ll find it much easier to handle, and it will give you a secure grip on the camera. Many companies make them.
Good Luck to you Josh,
... Joe Prete

Hi, I have a Fuji S100FS. I love the camera but the most annoying things i have found with it are the manual focus, Which seems to have mind of its own once you have set focus, also the lack of a fixed focus or infinity setting which would have made life easier for me when i tried to snap the heavens. I have also found that the s100fs has great difficulty trying to lock focus in bright sunny landscape scenes.
I would like to know if the new hs30exr overcomes these problems, Cheers!

Pete,
If I recall, the S100FS was quite a camera in it’s day. However that day was about 5 years ago. I don’t even think it would be worth the cost of an estimate at this point, because parts are probably unavailable. Even if the camera worked perfectly now, it wouldn’t even hold a candle to the HS30EXR. If you’ve been reading this column, you’d know that Josh, the person just prior to your post, was very lucky to get his choice of the two models I tracked down. Since that was less than a week ago, all the information you need is there to read. Either you know that, or you want me to read it to you. If you need the camera, then follow the trail, but if you use it once every five years, then it would be a waste. Good luck to you Pete, because I’m sure that other people just took the advice, and chased down the camera. Give it a try. That’s more than enough information because you should know this already. New cameras are coming out daily at this time of year. ... Joe Prete

Hello, I’m finding out about the differences between the FUJIFILM HS30 and the Canon SX40. As I see that they have similar price and similar features, but I want to know what is best for me, since I want to venture into the world of photography. Basically I want to shoot landscapes and urban shots. But since I’m new to this, quiesiera a camera is easy to use but good camera. I’m reading the previous post, when I made my decision the manifest to get their opinions.
Thanks for the info.

The difference between RAW & JPEG is that a JPEG is the final product. A Photographer wants a camera that shoots RAW+JPEG.

With that capability, you can use one of the many “post production” applications like Photoshop *“ELEMENTS” to correct, change or add to a photographic design or project.
*(Elements is just used as an example here because it’s popular)

Most times it’s just a minor correction to a Photograph. You can easily “save” a picture that would otherwise be scrapped. So you see, RAW is very desirable option to have in your camera.

Even if you don’t need it now, you will later on. Also, it can make a big difference in reselling a camera. RAW retains it’s value, without it, the camera might become a paperweight.

Elements is a popular “Photoshop type” of program. it can cost between $60.00 & $80.00 But there are plenty of free programs that do the same as the paid programs. I, myself use the free applications that I recommend, so I know they work well.

Be careful, as you must have read that 2nd to last post to Josh, where I found that the Fuji HS25EXR only shoots JPEGS, but the $40.00 more HS30EXR does have RAW+JPEG. Even their own customer service reps. did not know the difference. So if I hadn’t found that difference Josh might have made a Huge mistake.

I would say, that the Fujifilm HS30EXR information that I gave to Josh, would be good for you as well. That is, if it’s still available. There is the two day Holiday, the 17th & 18th at B&H and J&R (you would have to request “price matching” if you use J&R as their price is higher).

So get back to me Ivan, in a day or so, this way you may still have the option to get one after the holiday. B&H is first come, first served so orders will be stacking up during the holiday -if they allow it. If you respond to this post, I will try to help you.
... Joe Prete

I have got a nikon F5 SLR; now worth little, some prime lenses; worth a bit. photo Quality? Superb.

Film? have to order on line. Developimg and printing? Costly and only a few out of dozens of pics worth it.

If I had the cash I ould get the latest Leica Digi SLR and some lenses. 30,000 Grand.

I bought a Fuji finepix S4500. Can see what I have taken,immediately and in reasonable light at the lower ISO settings, gives perfectly acceptable quality, so no doubt the camera here will be better.

You have a massive zoom, image stabilization, quick speeds. If you want to be a Beaton, Litchfield, Donovan etc get a hasselblad and use 100 ISO film. Or be happy that we can snap away for a reasonable outlay.

I bought the Fuji HS20 about 6 months ago and really have had no problems or complaints about it. This is my 5th digital camera and feels like a DSLR to handle, well built and comfortable to hold on to. Like all bridge cameras the viewfinder is rather poor and image stabilization leaves a lot to be desired but other than that it takes great pictures and has more features than almost anyone could ever need. Thought about going to the HS30 but it’s so close to being the same camera will wait for the next one.

Cliff,
I have an HS20EXR from one of the first batches, I had a problem right from the start, it was a dead pixel, right where it would look like a blemish on the model. Instead of returning it, I sent it to the New Jersey facility, where they changed the whole lens/sensor assy., they also updated the software. The camera has been excellent ever since then.

I wouldn’t sell it for twice the money I paid for it. I originally got it to do an unbiased review, which it passed easy. The HS30EXR is just about the same, and I wouldn’t update it either. I do think this is the end for these cameras. The X-S-1 is supposed to be the top of the line at about $800.00 but most people are okay with the 20 or 30 models (the 25 has no raw) I don’t see any issues with the viewfinder, maybe yours needs to be adjusted.

Once people got the manual printed, like I suggested (see above) everyone seemed very happy with them. Now, they’re a little hard to find.
. ... Joe Prete

Thanks for a good review above. It helped a lot.
Also thanks for answering the questions raised by many others (like me).
I have a very different question. Hope you will be able to help me here.

After having multiple P&S cameras from past 10 years, I recently moved to DSLR & purchased Cannon T3i (600D). I purchased it with 18-55mm kit lens. But soon realized that I need a bigger lens with more reach. I though of buying 55-250mm. But I read about the frustration of changing lenses in trips etc. So I bought Tamron 18-270mm PZD lens as a single versatile lens. Canon’s 18-200mm was very expensive.
But I found that, it’s not producing sharp images compare to Canon lens.
Buying another lens will cost me a fortune & I am not in a position to buy. So thinking to buy a Bridge Camera like HS30/SX40 etc. That will give reach I wanted & will cost much less than the lens itself. I know, I won’t get the IQ of DSLR. But I am expecting sharper images than Tamron 18-270 PZD lens. Do you agree with this?

Please suggest what should I do? If I buy a bridge camera, I will sell my Tamron lens. I will keep my Canon T3i for special occasion & Bridge camera for general walk around purpose.
Please if you can suggest on this and a better bridge camera within $400.

Ashwani,
I would like to help you, but I need some more information. There were a few versions of the Tamron 18-270 can you put the full lens designation (ie. DI II, VC PZD, VC LD, Aspherical), also does the Front Element TURN when focusing?

I need the date & place of purchase & the cost. Also, are you using any software for post processing?

If it was me, I would stay with the Canon, You only have one problem now, let’s determine what is wrong with this lens.

Myself, I would have paired the 18-55 with a 55-200, I would never try to do everything with one lens and changing a lens in the field is no problem, but lets take this one step at a time & try to fix your problem. I ask the D.O.P. to see if it can be returned, but if it can’t we’ll try to find a solution anyhow.

Also, can you tell me where you are located? Reply here, but tell me if you know one of my email addresses, okay.
Please reply asap, I will get a notice before your reply is posted, and I will be watching for it. ... Joe Prete

Thanks for your reply.
I had bought Tamron lens aprox 8 months ago. I don’t think it can be returned now.
It’s Tamron AF 18-270mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD LD. The front element doesn’t turn when I focus. The focus ring is on the middle of the lens & doesn’t impacted by lens zoom.

Also, I don’t use any software for editing. I generally take hundreds of pictures & keep the best one for me. I tried to sharp some pics with Canon’s software, but not satisfied. On the other hand kit lens & 50mm prime lens take beautiful pics.

Thanks for your reply.
I had bought Tamron lens aprox 8 months ago. I don’t think it can be returned now.
It’s Tamron AF 18-270mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD. The front element doesn’t turn when I focus. The focus ring is on the middle of the lens & doesn’t impacted by lens zoom.

Also, I don’t use any software for editing. I generally take hundreds of pictures & keep the best one for me. I tried to sharp some pics with Canon’s software, but not satisfied. On the other hand kit lens & 50mm prime lens take beautiful pics.

Thanks for your reply.
I had bought Tamron lens aprox 8 months ago. I don’t think it can be returned now.
It’s Tamron AF 18-270mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD LD. The front element doesn’t turn when I focus. The focus ring is on the middle of the lens & doesn’t impacted by the lens zoom. VC is turned ON during hand held shoot.

Also, I don’t use any software for editing. I generally take hundreds of pictures & keep the best one for me. I tried to sharp some pics with Canon’s software, but not satisfied. On the other hand kit lens & 50mm prime lens take beautiful pics.

Ashwani,
Okay I have the model, I will call the TAMRON facility here (New York USA) to get some information like any recalls, or firmware updates., I think you do have the good version, also the latest model with internal focusing, also you can use a polarizer on that model, so it has the corrections that weren’t on the first models. You are still under warranty just in case. But it does sound like the newest version. So, it’s all good so far!

I asked about software because like you said, I was thinking about “sharpening” in post production. I don’t think Canon software will do that. I will check two free applications to see if they include sharpening. I’m referring to “Picasa” and “the gimp”. If that works, you would need to shoot raw images to be able to adjust the prints. B/t/w, they work good together, and they are easy to learn, and it’s hard to believe that they are free.

Every application that is bought (like “ELEMENTS” gives you a 30 day FREE trial to try their software). Your camera can shoot in JPEG+RAW and that is what you’ll need. (JPEG’s are a finished product) Raw will show everything that is contained in the image like the full tonal range. It wouldn’t hurt to learn about that while I speak to a tech at Tamron.

To test for sharpness you need to set up a test and use the other lens for comparison. (ie. Camera on a Tripod, 6 feet from a wall, with a chart that has different sizes of PRINTED LETTERS (FLAT). Now, you should know that the widest opening (3.5) will be the least sharp. But at mid way like F8 you should get a sharp image.

MAKE SURE THE TRIPOD OR TABLE IS HOLDING THE CAMERA STEADY. You need to set your comparison, so use the 18-55 at 55MM & SET the Tamron at 55MM or as close to it as you can. To shoot at F8 it will have to be bright, like daylight. I hope you know your exposure, You’ll set the camera on APERTURE PRIORITY. The shutter speed should auto set for both lenses.

You set-same aperture, the camera sets the shutter speed by itself on “aperture Priority mode”.

A mid point is always the sharper aperture, and it has more depth of field. Now, if you understand what I’m saying, you can get started, even manual focus using a ruler and setting the focus yourself.

If you can’t “squeeze the shutter smooth enough yet, you can use the self timer to fire the camera. it will be completely still.

Please remember to remove the filters (if any) and just use the lenses for the comparison. Often a filter will dull out an image. A clear day without the sun should work best, and write down what each test is if they’re going on the same memory card.

I will speak to you again later, and I’ll ask Mark to send you my email address. I need to also tell him that we’re getting double prints in the forum again. ... Joe Prete

Thanks a lot Joe.
First if all sorry for so many comments. Something weird had happened and I was getting failure message during posting. If possible, please remove those unwanted posts please.
Well all your suggestions make sense.
I will try to do these testing over the weekend.
Though I had tried these experiments in past but not with mid range of F stops. I always tried with maximum aperture. Canon lens is able to produce crisp images at all f stops but not tamron.
Well I will try again with RAW as well and on PP as suggested by you.
And again thanks a ton for spending your precious time on my query.

Ashwani,
It’s no trouble to help you, people have helped me when I was coming up into the trade, so I try to help whoever needs it. The only thing I ask, is that you keep in touch, so I know how you’re doing. And we will work together until we resolve the issue.

I left a message at Tamron and I’ll try to reach Mark again, only he can remove the extra posts, but it happens from time to time It’s no big deal. I think we’re 12 hours apart, but we’ll get by.

Did you understand everything that I explained about testing the lens? If not, please let me know, and I’ll help you through it. I don’t want to see you have to spend more money. If it’s a defective lens, Tamron will repair or replace it. They back their products, and they have good tech support. You do have your purchase receipt yes? They have at least one year warranty.

It’s 11:30 AM (New York), so it’s still very early for any response

I will try to reach you toward the evening here, 7:00 or 8:00 PM New York time. So, I’ll speak to you later. Please have your questions ready, we need to do the testing as the next step okay? Best Regards,
Joe Prete

Thanks Joe !!
Yes I understood what you have explain in your previous post.
Regarding lens, I will contact Tamron service here is Sydney to see if they can fix any issue with the lens (if any). But the lens is not that bad. It still take beautiful pictures. But when I zoom in the pic, then I find that it’s bit soft overall compare to Canon lens. Everything else works very well with this lens. It’s fast, it’s quite, but the picture quality is not of a DSLR level.
I am not a profession photographer, but I am a photography enthusiast & love it.
Let me to try mid range F settings & compare with canon.
But over many forums, I have read that Tamron is no where near to Canon in terms of IQ. But on some forums it’s mentioned that this is one of the best all rounder lens in the market.
Well, I will do the testing over the weekend (but weather seems to be wild on weekend, so only indoor testing).
I will let you know the results & send the pictures to you (on email if you can share with me). Hope you already have my email address.

Sorry for late reply. Because of long weekend, which turned to be a good one, family asked to go out. So we went out & didn’t get chance to perform the testing :(
But I tried to take some pics using Tamron lens on trip (using f/8). Which were beautiful, but not as sharp as got from canon. So I shifted to Canon 18-55 lens to get sharp pics. Of course I missed many opportunities because of limited reach of 18-55 & hesitation of changing lens on the go. But I had forgotten to set the camera mode to RAW+JPEG
I would send you some sample ASAP over the email.

Perhaps I may change the lens soon. So seeking your advice on the below (as per your experience on vast variety of lenses & cameras).

1. Should I change the Tamron lens 18-270 to Canon 55-250 IS?
2. Should I buy HS30 or other super zoom bridge camera?
3. Any other suggestion on lens/camera?

I have read few more reviews on Tamron, where experts says “It’s a jack of tools but master on nothing”. As I mentioned that, I am not a pro. So I am not expecting pro IQ. I believe day-to-day use of this lens is fine & it still produce beautiful pics. But sharpness is not up to the mark if I zoom the pic. Otherwise it’s hard to find the difference in pics by Tamron & Canon lens.

The Canon Image Sensor is many, many times larger than that found on most bridge cameras including the HS30EXR. Do not blame the Canon camera, or the 18-55mm lens. Speak to the Tamron facility that handles their warranty items. Tell them you have a problem obtaining sharp images, and you would like to get it checked by a tech. Obtain a Return Authorization number or (RA) Number.

See how the lens checks out. The most it should cost you is shipping and Insurance. Find out if the lens is faulty or damaged. Depending on the outcome, you will see how to proceed. There is nothing wrong with Bridge cameras, but they Bridge the Gap between Compact cameras and DSLR’s. If you feel that you crossed over the Bridge too soon, I’m sure it won’t be hard for you to find someone to “trade up” while you “trade back down”

If you decide to sell the gear that you have, be truthful about the lens and adjust the price accordingly, otherwise you will have a fight or a lawsuit to add to your problems. It will not be hard to sell or trade the canon, and it’s kit lens. ... Joe Prete