The 80 is a fine saw. Its 80ccs (hence the name) good antivibe. I have a 24" hardnose Carlton on it, from what I've heard it can handle a bigger bar. Plenty of power. A decomp valve would be nice on a saw with 200psi.

Firstly it's spelled JONSEREDS for the early Jonsereds and JONSERED for the later saws from the Jonsered/Husqvarna era.

I don't know exactly what 50 pounds exchanges to US dollars but over here an 80 in good running order will set you back anywhere from $100-$250.00 US.

The 80s are a great saw. Rather heavy and don't turn the rpm of more modern saws but have alot of power and will run a 24' bar, no problem.
Other than the weight the other problem is all parts are NLA, except spark plugs, B&Cs, clutch drums, drive rims and recoil springs. I believe Tiltons still lists points and condensers for these. Fortunately, in the true nature of the pure early Jonsereds they share quite a few parts with other Jonsereds of the same era from the 49SP to the 90. Some of the shared parts would be; trigger handles, coils, points, AV mounts, oil and gas caps, etc. Of course not all of the shared parts are found on all the saws but Jonsereds kept tooling costs down by using as many of the same parts on as many different saw models as possible. New bearings and crank seals can be had from most any bearing supply houses. Parts can also be had from E-Bay and site sponsor chainswr.com always has a bunch of used 80 stuff also.

You can try the "beg for manuals thread" at the top of the page. I believe that PB has IPLs on some kind of format he can E-Mail but not sure and can't speak for him. I do know he is really busy just now but if he sees a "Jonsereds 80" thread he will definitely read it!!

I have one real good running 80 and three others that I will restore into two more runners this winter. I like 'em.

You will have to figure out if you want the problems of having an obsolete saw along with the bennifits of have a very powerful and classic saw. Good luck.

I have an 80 I bought new in 1974, kept up, and used quite a bit. I think mine is doing great, but yours looks in much better shape (finger guard, paint). I've never been into the points or had the flywheel off. Three plugs in 36 years. Don't use it so much lately but save for backup. Heavy, loud, lots of torque, slow to cut but very reliable. I have to drop start it since it fights back at the rope. Also I pull out the rope a couple inches when shutting down as it yanks the rope back in pretty hard as it stops. Great saw, good purchase!
Jim

I just thought that I might include some preliminary pictures of the latest purchase, now that the deal is done.

I have not posted pictures before, so I hope that they work!!

Lightmart

I bought one as a 'back-up saw back in '79, when I was still fallin'. I use it still today in my fencing business. I cleaned the point once in all these yrs...very well isolated and that area stays clean. The saw will vapor lock if left out in the hot sun. Solution: place it in the shade.;-)

It doesn't rev fast and is a kinda slow cutter, but has plenty of torque, hence power. I find parts for it all the time online and stock them for the future. Many dealers will not be patient with you about the saw, calling it an "antique" etc. Bailey's techs here in the US will launch into a rant about any of the old saws. If you let them get to you, you'll be walking to the trash can with your power head.

“I have already found resistance towards the saw from repair shops and the like....no chain brake!!!!:jawdrop: OMG!!!! We are all going to die!!! etc etc

The saw is too powerful!!! Its too heavy!!!! Its too slow!!!

My reply was.....:censored:grow up girls!!!

It might be heavy, noisy, slow and without a chain brake....but its still here and still cutting....and will be if I have anything to do with it!!!

Thanks guys

Lightmart

That's a great point. I was arguing the other day about 'heavy' saws that have big cubes and plenty of power. The trend for yrs has been to downsize and turbo this and tweak that. I'm not knocking modern designs, but you can't put a six foot bar on these little wonders. Nor are you going to put 404 skip-tooth chisel on them and watch the chips shoot seven feet in the air effortlessly, as you buck decent timber.

I was talking about the power & and cutting grace of a Husky 3120xp. The argument was "why" would I even consider packing such a heavy saw into the woods. Well, the 'girls' don't remember (or ever knew), we just bought that leather pad from Bailey's, ran in through a suspender (on a shoulder) and packed the saws through the woods with our gas & oil cans, fallin' axe and wedge pouch, like men should. Nobody I ever knew complained about the weight, given the power and grace of those big saws. Show me a smaller saw that can DO (and last) like the big saws did and I'll be first in line with the $ for it.

And as far as chain brakes go, Jesus what a worthless invention for the professional faller. I've had dozens of chains come off AND break. Using a full wrap handle bar, it always caught the worst of it-never my body and I hardly think I was 'lucky' after all those events. You should see all the nicks on my old Husky 2100 full wrap from just that! I wouldn't even consider a new saw unless I can take off the chain brake.:greenchainsaw: