Intel 980X: Stock Cooling Fan

Benchmark Reviews tries to cover every angle, but sometimes it's just not possible given our time constraints. Past articles from our 'Best CPU Cooler Performance' series have largely focused on the Intel Core 2 Duo/Quad LGA775 socket, and while the results are relevant to users owning that series of processor, the new Core i7 platform is completely different. To the inexperienced enthusiast, a top-performing LGA775 cooler might be (mistakenly) considered worthy for cooling a new LGA1366 Core i7 project. This would be a grave error, because not only are the two processors different in overall size, they also place the processor cores in different locations. Simply stated: what worked well on a Core 2 platform may not work very good at all with Core i7.

Since our Intel Core i7-980X Extreme Edition six-core Gulftown test processor has been overclocked to 4.0GHz for both LGA1366-based heatsink tests, the only real difference will be the fans used. For the "Stock Cooling Fan" results, Benchmark Reviews tests our collection of LGA1366 heatsinks for this article with the manufacturer-included fan, so that performance will be relevant to consumers using the cooling product in stock form. Manufacturer-supplied stock cooling fans usually offer either extremely high airflow or incredibly low noise, so there's a lot riding on what's packaged with the kit. Sure, there's added importance on the cooler's design and construction, but at the stock level these factors really don't carry tremendous weight.

Benchmark Reviews has tested several new products (along with a few top-performers from previous tests) in stock form for the Intel LGA1366 socket, with the average temperature difference (core temp minus ambient temp) noted beside each heatsink:

Intel-LGA1366 CPU Cooler

Thermal Difference

Cogage Arrow

28.80°C over ambient

Scythe Mugen-2 SCMG-2000

29.00°C over ambient

Zalman CNPS10X-Performa

29.71°C over ambient

Titan FENRIR TTC-NK85TZ

29.80°C over ambient

Thermolab BARAM

29.84°C over ambient

Noctual NH-D14 (2x 140)

30.09°C over ambient

Cogage TRUE Spirit

31.37°C over ambient

Coolink Corator-DS

31.48°C over ambient

Tuniq Tower-120 Extreme

32.06°C over ambient

CyberPowerPC XtremeGear HP-1216B

32.35°C over ambient

Xigmatek Balder SD1283 CAC-SXHH3-U06

32.50°C over ambient

3R-System IceAge Prima Boss-II IA-120B2

32.55°C over ambient

ZEROtherm Nirvana NV120 Premium

33.44°C over ambient

Cooler Master Hyper-N620

34.27°C over ambient

Thermaltake Contac-29 CLP0568

35.28°C over ambient

Noctua NH-U12P SE1366 (2x 120)

36.10°C over ambient

Intel DBX-B Advanced Thermal Solution (Silent)

36.13°C over ambient

Using the included stock fan, the $69.95 Cogage Arrow yields an impressive performance of only 28.8°C over the ambient room temperature. For only $34.99 though, the Scythe Mugen-2 nearly ties performance by earning 29.0°C over ambient. Zalman's CNPS10X-Permorma also joins the top heatsinks after posting 29.71°C, while the Titan FENRIR and Thermolab BARAM chase it similar results. Not far behind the leaders is giant-sized Noctua NH-D14 that produced 30.09°C with two NF-P14 140mm fans. At an affordable $39.95 price point, the Cogage TRUE Spirit brings top-end performance to mainstream enthusiasts on a budget.

The Coolink Corator-DS heatsink offers excellent cooling performance with very little noise, and produced only 31.48°C over ambient with the stock SWiF2-120P fan. Tuniq's Tower-120 Extreme, the inexpensive CyberPowerPC XtremeGear HP-1216B, Xigmatek Balder SD1283, and 3R-System IceAge Prima Boss-II all battle within the 32°C range.

A noisy ZEROtherm Nirvana NV120-Premium delivered 33.44°C over ambient, while a much more quiet Cooler Master Hyper-N620 produced 34.27°C. The Thermaltake Contac-29, twin-fan Noctua NH-U12P SE1366, and Intel DBX-B Advanced Thermal Solution each offered a silent 36°C over ambient temperature. All in all, every single heatsink performed very well with an already-overclocked Intel 980X processor running at 4.0GHz with 1.375 volts.

If you want to see how all of these coolers performed with a high-volume cooling fan attached to the overclocked 980X processor, please continue into the next section...

I Was wondering if you had any pictures showing the orientation. For example, you had a push fan on the lower side of the heatsink, pushing air up through the heatsink towards the top of the case ( i guess because heat rises and why fight that) but don't you lose any direct air flow blowing down on the cards/nb?

In our tests the fan was attached to the bottom of the heatsink, and pushes air from the bottom of the cast to the top. If two fans were ever used, it simply adds a second fan for a push and pull effect.

I've heard reports of people claiming that these larger heatsink wil. l eventually bend your mobo resulting in your 1st dimm to lose contact. you can reseat the ram and support the cooler im sure. any comment?

I can't find a difference between the Zalman Flex and Performa, aside from looks and the Performa comes with a fan, which doesn't make sense considering the Flex costs more. Can you tell me what the differences are and why the Flex is more expensive, and if you would expect them to perform equally or not?

I'm trying to decide between the Prolimatech, Scythe, and Zalmans. I like the Prolimatech for the best performance and the Scythe for almost equal performance but much cheaper. The Zalman's are nice because they're in the middle for cost, although they perform worse yet cost more than the Scythe (unless the Flex performs better than the Performa). My main concern with the Scythe is you mentioned a "giant hassle for installation." Can you elaborate on that or point me to a link where it's discussed?

For an i7-920/930 build with intent to OC to the 3.8-4.0 range, which of these four would you suggest, or do you think they would all be up to the task?

The details on the Mugen installation are in the article, along with my suggestions for the best cooler between those choices. I haven't received or tested the Zalman CNSP10X-Flex, so I can't properly comment.

the Cogage Arrow heatsink will support 3x120mm fans. it will likely drop them temp a degree or two.

I would order and i did, should be here tomorrow, Prolimatech megahelms. I am waiting to see what they give me for a fan (it comes with one now) before i order Noctua NF-P12-1300 120MM fans. From what i can tell they have the best static pressure available, exactly what you need to blow through that rad.

I know which one you said is the best cooler (the Prolimatech), and I'm fully aware that it's the best choice if nothing but temps matter. But then, if that were the case, I could just as well set up a water cooling system. What I'm trying to decide is if it's worth spending twice as much for a difference of a few degrees. If I were trying to push my OC to the limit and go with an extreme speed of 4.2GHz+, then I'm sure it would come down to those few degrees making a difference. However, for "only" shooting for ~3.8-4.0, it seems the Scythe would be enough, and I was just looking for your opinion on it, seeing as you have much more experience than I do in the topic.

As for the Mugen install, I've looked through the article over and over and I can't find what you're referencing. There's not even an entry in the article index for the Scythe. I guess I'll just have to check out other reviews on it elsewhere to see if anyone else mentions anything.

EDITOR'S NOTE: The Scythe Mugen-2 Revision B model SCMG-2100 heatsink is identical to the first version, model SCMG-2000. The only difference is that Mugen-2 Rev. B uses a newly developed F.M.S.B. (Flip Mount Super Back-Plate) for more convenient mounting onto the motherboard. There should not be any cooling performance between these two models, despite marketing hype.

How can you hook up 2 CPU fans if the motherboard only has 1 CPU fan connector. Should I use a case fan slot for the second one? The case fans in my Cooler Master 932 HAF all can connect to the PSU cables, so that would be possible.

I would suggest using a splitter/y-cable, such as the one at ##directron.com/y3pin.html. This way you can let the fans be controlled by the motherboard, slowing down when maximum cooling isn't required.

I didn't see this covered in the article, though I must have missed it. The article led me to buy the Megahalems. Is it safe to connect 2 fans to the same motherboard connector?

I have a P658D Premium motherboard. Could/should I just connect the second fan to one of the extra case fan connectors? As I noted, the case fans could possibly all connect to the PSU directly since they have adapters for that.

Any suggestions on where to find more information about molex plugs? What do they add to a setup, why shouldn't I use them? I notice the connect to the MB and the PSU directly. Though I guess using a splitter with those might allow the MB to control them, but keep from pulling too much power from the MB.

I would suggest you read the thread at ##silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=55996 as well as maybe doing some more searching on your own. Based on what is said there, and the fact the splitters exist in the first place, I would suggest it's more than likely perfectly fine to do it. If you have doubt and really want to set it up that way, or you are just curious, I recommend you figure out the current draw of whatever fans you plan to use and either do some searching to see if you can find out what success others have had with fans with similar draw running in parallel off a single header or contact ASUS and ask them what the CPU_Fan header is rated at. If you do find out, or if you try it and it works, try to follow up and report your findings, as while I'm fairly certain it will work, I'd like to know for sure.

I have learned that something may not be good, even if it exists. I am concerned with trying to pull too much power from the MB. I have come across a few things (though I have a hard time making a good Google search for the topic) about the possibility of damage.

I will check out the site. Contacting ASUS is in my list, but I want to build the box this weekend, not wait until Monday. :)

One of the fans makes a horrid noise, so I am only running with the push now, so the problem is gone for a while.

On the AMD X4-965 High-Output Fan page the NH-D14 is again for some strange reason listed with "stock 140mm fans" as opposed to having the Yate Loon 88 CFM fans mounted on it like every other cooler on the page.

On the Intel 980x High-Output Fan page the writer mentioned that the NH-D14 had two Xigmatek 140x140x25mm XLF-F1453 fans (63.5 CFM) mounted instead of the Yate Loon (88 CFM) fans mounted on every other cooler except the Prolimatech Armageddon, which also had the Xigmatek fans mounted.

I thought it was supposed to have the Yate Loon fans installed as per the test methodology?

Excellent review, and much still for me to reflect on but have you any details on the size of the Thubans? I'm curious if the Scythe Mugen-2 would have great surface to surface contact on these upcoming processors. Also I couldn't help but notice that you are not a fan of certain high CFM fan's on the market. How about this Delta with PWM? It's 35 bucks and may cool enough for great OC'n for a Thuban/Scythe Mugen-2 combo. #search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=603-1164-ND

I only ask because in the Q1 review you did not test the AMD Phenom-II X4-965 BE or Intel Core i7-980X Extreme Edition with the 'showdown' between the Yate Loon fan on these CPU's vs... another fan.

There is a lot of info and obviously one size does not fit all. I am still trying to figure out which cooler for the heat signature of the gulftown chip on an asus P6x58D board so I can still use all of the memory and pci slots. Does not have to be the absolute coolest, but decent and easy to install.

Excellent. Well executed and written article on the top preforming coolers. One tip I'll take advantage of is reorienting my Noctual NH-D14 so the exhaust blows up and not toward the back. You explanation makes sense and I've got a larger fan pointing out on the top of my Coolmaster HAF 932.

here i thought i could find out, what my next heatcooler would look like!!!

but, but.. it seems like this test purpurce it overclockers, because, nothing about noise lvl. at least i could not find it!!!

when i am looking for coolers, i always look for, what temperature, can it hold the cpu, at lowest rpm, and the cpu working. ( with supported fan )

a lot of ppl hates noice more than been able to overclock. there for the lowest rpm combined with the cpu working, is a good indication, on what coolers can do the work and wich one, only are for high rpm cooling.

so the noice lvl, is at least as important as temperature. and it should be about 50celcius or lower, by normal use.( still at lowest rpm. ) my zalmon copper cooler, can still do the job, at lowest rpm with my old cpu ( i almost cant hear it )

so remember: measure noice lvl every time, so we dont have to guess !!! ( with stock cooler )

Sorry if this is a silly question but you said three 8mm heatpipe rods in the base, or four 6mm rods are best for lga775, Mugen has 5 pipes, so does that mean it is even better for my processor? or does it need to be specifically either 3 or 4, again apologies if this is a silly question.Thanks in advance.

That's actually a very difficult question to answer, and depends on the heat output of the processor. If the processor receives extreme amounts of heat because of overclocking or increased voltage, it's better to have larger heat pipe rods. If the temperature envelope is moderate to low, the smaller rods are better.

so bigger than mugen's? which are 6mm rods. I have not overclocked it yet, but that specific computer is for gaming, so i might later on overclock it. I cannot spend much, but i wouldn't buy crap either. Do you think mugen is a good choice? Thank you very much for your reply and help. I REALLY appreciate it.

Your CPU temps are fine only in the sense that AMD Phenom CPU's are spec'd at 60.degrees or so for the 'high' limit.

However, I think your cooler should be getting lower temps. Your chassis fans look as to be set for 'quiet' performance but your CPU fan is 'cranking' on the fast side. I would think you would be getting below 30.degrees easily without any OC'n as you mentioned.

I'd try a new TIM, or completely clean and re-apply your Thermal(TIM) paste. I use Artic Silver or Tuniq. My Spire Thermax Eclipse II keeps my Thuban at 21.degrees when I had it at stock config.