Pueblo Viejo

When your trailer sits in the shadow of the popular El Milagro Tortillas on East Sixth Street, you can be forgiven for not making your own tortillas. What’s easier than just running across the street? And when you make salsas as diverse and compelling as Pueblo Viejo, nobody’s going to spend too much time bemoaning tortilla quality, even if the corn version crumbled liked baked clay.

The five salsas, which you can purchase in 5-ounce cups, run from the smoky dusk of an exceptional black habanero to the morning glow of creamy jalapeno, with a fresh tomato sauce with onions and cilantro streaming through the middle ground.

Breakfast tacos run $2.50 at the massive trailer hitched to a pickup at the location closest to Interstate 35, and the bacon on the Don Chago is deserving of breakfast platter real estate. It crackles at ends just shy of burned on a taco creamy with avocado and beans almost liquefied by lard.

Choose between chicken and steak to supplement your Guaca Taco ($3.90). The beef didn’t have much blush to its interior but remained tender, with caramelized onions wrapping their sweet embrace amid the mash of ripe avocado and expressive spinach. Drape one end of the taco with the orange habanero salsa and the other with the smokier black version.