Bought another boat last week, needed running gear apart from the twin motors and rear servo. So I bought a new Tx/Rx and a new ESC....I used a NiCad battery 1500....now I didn't charge the battery so it could be something as simple as that. The Rx was already bound to the Tx so all I had to do was make the connections and off we go. Nothing!!! Neith rudders nor screws moved a millimeter.....battery problem? There was enough charge to light the ESC and Rx. How long do they hold their charge roughly? Thanks.....

Hi NickWWhat Tx/Rx have you bought? What is the ESC?Are you sure the original motors and ESC were working? As this is a new Tx/Rx are you sure they are working? Are you sure they are actually bound?If the lights were on the Rx and ESC the battery should have worked the rudder. NiCads are not good for holding their charge and are best charged just before using. NiMh batteries are much better in this respect.Dave

Hi Dave...the Tx/Rx is an Absima 2.4Ghz system, the handbook informs buyers that the products are matched in the factory so you only need to bind if you're mixing them with other brands. I'm using the Mtroniks Viper Marine 15 ESC....all lights appear to be on but nothing moves :-(

Some further research indicates others have had issues with binding. Most of the Utube videos are in German so perhaps Doug can help you understand how to bind. I suspect you may have unbound when you were swopping the plugs around.Or it could be a faulty kitDave

Schön guten Tag Freunde! Wie kann ich behilflich sein??Send me a link and I'll see what I can do.I found an Absima site in German (not surprising since they are in Nürnberg north of Munich) with several system manuals to download so let me know which set you have and I'll translate the Getting Started and Binding sections for you.Viele Grüße Doug 😎

"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug

I have the SR2S model - also has AFHDS - automatic frequency hopping digital system....it's a 2 channel Tx, purchased off fleabay new in box. It comes with a manual in English, which says it's factory matched with the Rx

OK. I'll let you know what I can find. So far their 'English' seems more like 'Dinglish' to me. Poor translations 🤔Not so unusual, I spent a good deal of my 30 years working here tidying up the English system manuals of the company I worked for. Sometimes the curious translations had completely reversed the actual meaning!!Cheers Doug

"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug

NickWis this the radio sethttps://www.modelsport.co.uk/absima-sr2s-2-channel-2.4ghz-ra...If so it's a 2 channel set with a rx with 4 sockets.One is for the battery and I assume the rest are for ESC and Rudder.You have tried putting the connectors in the two furthest sockets from the battery socket. It could be only two are actually live as regards signal controls. As the lights come on the plugs are in the correct way.DougI did find some Utube help on the set but it was all in German or could have been 'Dinglish'. I do hope you will be able to help with the translation. Happy daysdave

Hi Dave, yes that's the very one....I'll have to try the battery connector in the 1st channel which is the bind channel....the red led comes on and stays on, the led's on the ESC flash and then it settles to green

Hi NickIf your ESC has a BEC you use the throttle channel and the other channel for the rudder.The ESC can not be plugged into the battery connector as there will be no signal on that connector but all the lights will work as you are providing the correct voltage.The ESC should settle to solid red green. If green is showing this suggests the ESC is not finding a signal.I assume the batteries in the Tx are all ok and all connected in the correct way.If you have another TX/Rx you could check The ESC and Rudder servo to make sure they work OK using that set.Hopefully Doug will decipher the bind process but I would check the above first.The Viper has an on off switch and I assume this is working as you are powering everything.Dave

Hi Nick, If you really have the R3FS RX then what you say above is wrong!The Bind channel slot is CH3. The Battery connector is the 4th slot. See pic from the so called User Manual.I would first try to Bind the RX without the ESC, then you can forget about BEC or not 😉 For this put the binding link into Ch3 slot and the battery in the fourth slot. Then-1. Install a charged battery in the TX and switch it off.2. Insert the Binding Link into the Ch3 channel „BIND“ port of the receiver.3. Connect the receiver battery to any port of the receiver, (leave the ESC out for now) the red LED starts flashing indicating that the RX is starting the tuning process..4. Press and hold the „BIND“ button on the transmitter, and switch it on.5. Watch the LED on the receiver. If the LED stops flashing, the binding process is successful. This process takes up to 5 sec.6 Release the „BIND“ button on the transmitter, take out the „BIND“ link.7. Install the servo for testing, in CH1 or 2.8. If the test fails, repeat 1 to 7 above.9. If the test succeeds, remove the RX battery, plug the ESC into slot 2, rudder servo into slot 1. As attached wiring diagram, which assumes an ESC with a BEC. All should now work assuming your batteries are OK and the ESC-BEC is working! If not Go back to step 7; No ESC, RX battery in slot 4, servo in slot 1 or 2. If this works then your ESC (or at least the BEC) is duff! 🤔Hope this does the trick, at least to find out where the snag is - if any! 😉Viel Glück! 👍 Doug 😎

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"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug

Hi Nick, Curiouser and curiouser! 🤔Please give us individual photos of all your kit; TX, RX, ESC so we can read the labelling. Plus a general view showing everything and how you've wired it up. So far I have not found an Absima RX with the Bind port in the 4th slot! Have you tried the tests Dave and I have suggested? Results?Cheers Doug 😎

"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug

Looks like this is a 3 channel set. The battery can be plugged into any port with 1,2 and 3 used for servos etc.. When binding, the top port is used for the binding plug and the battery plugged into any other port. The lights should be flashing on the rx with the bind plug connected and go solid when the Tx is in bind mode and the process has completed.Normal use with an ESC and servo is port 1 and 2.Dave

Weird, same model number, different layout!🤔 OK, we'll wait and see what happens when the battery is charged. Recommend you chuck away the Ni-cad! Bad for your health (!) and loses about 1% charge per day due to internal resistance.Doug 😎

"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug

I have a NiMh on it's way to me as we speak :-) - thanks everyone for comments/advice so far, once it's had a bit of a charge i'll try the various layouts and hope one will at least get the rudders moving

Well i've tried every Tx/Rx that I have, the only one getting anywhere near is the Tamco 200....binds as it should but just cant get the configuration correct, soon as I switch power on the ESC is flashing red/green led before settling on red, then the motors go off by themselves without me touching the throttle, the rudders are ok though....it even goes back to that tinny sound I mentione in another thread with another boat....but it just wont sit on the stand and wait for me to touch the throttle, it goes off by itself soon as the Tx is switched on.....i've obviously got something not configured correctly....and i've tried both Viper 15 and Viper 20 ESC

Hi NickYour ESC needs setting to the TX/RX.It is very important that before you switch on the Tx all the sticks and trims are at neutral and set for normal as against reverse.Switch on the Tx plug the Esc with battery connected into the Rx ESC socket. Switch on the ESC, both leds flash red green. Whilst they are flashing push the small button on the ESC. The green light should illuminate, push the relevant TX stick fully up, the red led should illuminate, pull the stick fully down and then return it to neutral. Both red and green LEDs should be lit whilst the stick is in the neutral position. Pushing the stick up fully will light the green LED (forward) fully the other way the red LED will light (reverse). The motor will run if connected.Your ESC is now set up to work with this Tx/Rx combination and will retain the setting each time you switch on. Always centre your sticks before switching on to avoid the motor starting due to a non central position.Different Tx/Rx combinations may require you to repeat the procedure.The same procedure should work for all Mtronic ESCs with a button including your two.Dave

The only movement I managed to get was the rudder stick operating as throttle....I followed your stages exactly but the ESC didn't show green LED when I moved throttle up or red LED when throttle down....no movement from rudder at all

Hi NickYou are using your Tamco and it is working?I suggest you try a spare servo in each channel and identify which Tx sticks work which channel on the Rx. The servo should follow the stick movement in both directions. If you do not have a separate Rx battery you can use your ESC, you dont need a motor connected but do tape up the wires to prevent a short.Once you have identified the throttle output channel you can plug your esc into this channel. Plug the test servo into the rudder channel and make sure it is workingYour throttle (ESC) stick does need to be in the centre position.

If you are using a horizontal stick then I add the following procedure or follow my original guide.When you say rudder stick do you mean the horizontal stick movement on the tx?If so it is this stick you need to move to set the ESC. Say full right when the solid green light is on then full left when the red light is on. Stick back to centre and both red green should be solid.With the Tx switched on the bind process is automatic once you press the small button after switch on and whilst the red/green leds are flashing. Once pressed the green led should be solid until you move the stick fully when the red led lights and you move the stick in the opposite direction and return to centre when the red green lights show solid. Dave

Hi tidtug! don't get too excited - we don't know if we've solved it yet!Mainly cos Nick's feedback is very sparse and we're not sure if he tried the step by step tests we suggested or what exactly he did and happened. 🤔As an electronics engineer I learned long ago (the hard way!) that fault-finding can only work efficiently if you change / test one parameter at a time.cheers Doug 😎

"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug

I don't get a solid green light on the ESC.....it flashes red/green...whilst it was flashing I pressed the ESC button to no effect...i'll try with the right hand stick (which I always assumed was the rudder control) which goes from right to left etc. Sorry I don't have a spare servo, only what's on the model which controls the rudder

Hi NickLets just do one simple task. Plug the esc and rudder servo into your Rx. Switch on the TX and ESC. You may want to disconnect the motor and protect the wires. If the rx light is on your rudder should respond to one of the sticks. You may have to plug it into different channels on the rx moving the esc if necessary.Please let me know if this works.Dave

Right Dave.....just done that, the Rx has green LED lit and the ESC started with flashing green'red LEDS....when I move the right hand stick to the right the green LED shows...when moved to the left the red LED shows....when stick returned to centre the red/green LEDS show again

Eureka!You have a working TX/Rx and ESC. It would appear to be responding correctly to the Tx stick movements. Next step with everything as it is now plug in the rudder servo to the rx and see if the up down stick controls the rudder. It could be any of the remaining channels on the Rx.Please let me know if this works.Dave

Hi Nick, we're working into this on a sort of Archimedian Spiral! But we'll get there 😉 You forgot to mention if you had the rudder servo plugged in and if it responded! If it did I assume it responded to the left stick as your ESC responded to the right stick! In that case ..Switch off the RX (boat power supply/ESC), switch off the TX. Always use this sequence to prevent ESC / motors going wild! 😡 Then ...plug the rudder servo into the channel that responds to the right stick - I assume Channel 1? Plug the ESC into Channel 2.Switch on the TX, switch on the RX (boat supply / ESC-BEC). Again, always use this switch-on sequence to prevent uncontrolled servo / motor movement! All SHOULD now work as required 😉👍Cheers Doug 😎@ Dave - Patience is a virtue 😉

"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug

Yes I did have the ESC and servo plugged in....now I can't even get the ESC or Rx to switch on...no LEDs at all now....think i'll buy a dolls house instead...much easier :-( i'm obviously missing/not doing something but i've tried all and every ways and nothing

Hi Nick, sorry but I must ask why can't you ever describe completely what's happening?Example, above you write 'Yes I did have the ESC and servo plugged in..' but you didn't say if the rudder ever reacted when the ESC apparently did.Trying 'all and every ways' is not exactly the scientific method and usually leads to more or less fatal damage. Frankly Dave and I are beginning to wonder if you are trying to wind us up!? Had you followed our step by step instructions and reported back the results before trying anything else we would have long ago been able to cure the problem or diagnose the faulty component. Please help us to help you. Regards Doug

"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug

NickJust a thought we have been working on this for a few hours, is it possible your battery has run down and needs charging?. If nothing has changed from when it was working and there is now no power this seems the likely scenarioDave

Hi Doug, i'm sorry if you feel i'm not genuine....after the last few years of my health deteriorating i've moved from 1/35 plastic kits thru the scales until even the larger scales I couldn't deal with. RC boats i thought would be good because of no real construction so don't have to worry about my hands working correctly (i've purchased my boats rather than made them) I have little understanding about electronics, my career in the forces was stores not electrics....I have tried to answer your questions of me that would eventually help me with honesty and openness....i'll try not to upset you with my insignificant problems from this point onwards.

I charged the battery earlier or it may have been yesterday....but i'm thinking it is the battery, I have a NiMh on order so may wait until it arrives and then get back to it, sorry if this issue appears unreal, believe me all I want to do is sail my boat(s)....I assumed all you had to do was bind the Tx to the Rx and everything else would fall into place....maybe I should have bought a Futaba Tx/Rx rather than the cheaper versions....the boats I purchased have all been 40Hz so wanted to upgrade to 2.4Mghz.....not a case of plug'nplay as i so readily thought....anyway back to the drawing board and perhaps wait till my new battery arrives....I wish you a good night and thanks for all your help so far

Hi Nick, don't get upset, just slow down and try to be a little more accurate for us. Above all don't just plunge in with 'wild' experiments if you're not sure of the way forward. We are happy to help, and your problems are not insignificant, we all have some as we get older, but there's not much we can do if it is already too late due to 'wild' experiments🤔 Dave may well be right, after all this trial and error you may need to charge the battery again. That's why I asked if you have a simple voltmeter; a) to check the battery volts and b) if it is getting to the RX. Basic test engineering; #1: if it don't work has the circuit got volts? #2: If not why not ?? So, can you check the battery voltage please?Cheers DougPS if possible (budget / 'er indoors or whatever) I can strongly recommend a simple cheap variable power supply to power such tests instead of having to rely on the battery from the boat. Let us know when you have the new battery and are charged up ready to go again. 👍😉

"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug

Hi NickI am fairly certain your problems are mainly battery related. Do you use the Tamiya (white plug and socket) type battery connector? If so these can make a bad contact which then causes all kinds of unusual problems. We did get a good connection with the ESC working correctly. Subsequently the same set up had no power. This could be a flat battery or a bad connector not making contact. If you push and pull the connector and the set comes to life you have found the problem.Charging the flat battery should get you up and running again.Getting late now so perhaps we can have another attempt tomorrowCheersdave

Yes the battery(s) are all Tamiya connectors...yes I have a basic voltmeter kit...well it's called a digital multimeter and no havent a clue how to use it but thought i'd need one at some stage...battery is charging now so will leave it until this afternoon and pop in here for the next round...if it helps i'm quite happy to ring (mobile) so I can carry out the 'tests' in real time and explain fully what i'm doing....anyway thank you in anticipation - to you both :-)

Hi Nick, Yep, 'fraid so! Buy cheap - buy twice! Also the more expensive kit usually has much better manuals and trouble shooters supplied with it which help to avoid 'burn up' disasters!! They also normally offer advice and Help Lines. See also our comments in your 'Best Tx systems for Boats' post.Cheers Doug 😎

"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug

PS - But that doesn't mean you have to go for the other extreme -Zig thousand pounds for dozens of computerised functions and knobs, switches and displays all over, not to forget multi-parameter telemetry feedback with 5.8GHz video link to a virtual reality headset (stereo sound of course😉).'A journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step' Safe journey Nick, cheers Doug 😎

"Retirement is when you stop living at work -and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug