It just uses the bolt and barrel out of the Suomi kit. I had also thought about building it so it would take the suomi mags and drums. All you would have to do is put a suomi style magwell on it. On that gun it should be easier to get the suomi style magwell on the gun as you don't have the takedown feature to contend with. I am also going to try and use the original barrel shroud on my sgn-9 build. I got two kits both non matching and I am keeping the best parts for a future Suomi build.

That article will definitely get more guys interested in homebuilding. Much more so than the Sten articles. I was thinking it could also make for an interesting platform for a bolt action single shot or magazine fed carbine design.

I'm kinda torn on following his design or branching off a little. But I guess thats the great thing about home building, you can make what you want. I'm pretty sure I'm going with a bigger tube size than Matthews used and possibly a different recoil system. But we'll see, I've been kinda busy with build #3 Emily.

Congrats Moleman

Moleman that is a great build. Did you anneal the whole bolt or just a portion? I have heard they are very hard. Others have questioned the safety of an annealed bolt. I guess reheat treating is an option, but I would like to avoid if possible. Does anyone have good pictures of a Suomi mag well and mag lock-up. I was thinking about using Suomi mags/ drum.

Thanks. I annealed the whole bolt and the firing pin bushing after I removed the firing pin. Mine was hard enough that a file wouldn't cut it. You can get carbide drill bits to drill the hardened bolt, but I was planning on just re heat treating the bolt but not making it as hard as it was. I suppose if you didn't temper it enough it would crack or shatter. I"ve been working on the old firing pin and have turned it into a bushing for the new AR15 firing pin. Theres still a little fitting left to do before I put a picture of it up.

I"ve been working on the old firing pin and have turned it into a bushing

I was thinking the same thing, but this might be to much for me at this time since I don't have a lathe. I'll have to think it through before I do anything, I don't want to turn a good part into scrap.

I also think there will be a lot of variations, people will just use the article as a rough starting point.

I got the firing pin bushing done today. Here it is fitted to an AR15 firing pin. The firing pin tip hole is .062" and opens up to .108" for the first step of the AR15 pin. The only difficulty I had was I had to use my dremmel to set back the second step (red arrow) on the AR15 pin about .015" in order to get enough firing pin tip protrusion. I did this by turning the fireing pin in my lathe (but a drill would work just as well) and used the dremmel to lightly contouring the shoulder slightly back keeping the radius in the step. After I get the hammer slot done I plan on reharden both the bolt and the firing pin bushing then pressing in the bushing using red loctite and the pin that originally held it in. Then I'll run a drill bit down the firing pin hole to remove the section of the bushing retaining pin that will pass through the firing pin hole.

I was thinking the same thing, but this might be to much for me at this time since I don't have a lathe. I'll have to think it through before I do anything, I don't want to turn a good part into scrap.

I also think there will be a lot of variations, people will just use the article as a rough starting point.

If you have a drill press I think you could make the bushing pretty easy by making a drilling fixture. Just drill about a 1/2" blind hole the same size as the old fixed firing pin in a piece of metal held in the drillpress vise. Without moving the piece change the bit to the .062" bit and drill the rest of the way through. Repeat making another hole only using a .108" bit. I would secure the pin in a vise and place the drilling fixture over it and drill it with a hand drill/drill press and the same drill bits you used to make the fixture. I'd drill 1/2 way through both ends with the .062" bit and then use the .108" bit to set your firing pin protrusion. You may or may not have to set back the shoulder on the firing pin like I did. I'm sure someone here could help you out with turning down the bolt and making the barrel bushing. I've used this method to replace the Lee "unbrakeable decapping pins" that usually start braking after about 50,000 rounds.