Hey all, this is the build thread of my 2007 Honda Fit LX 5 spd which I call "The Grey Goose" mostly because it's not that pretty, makes a lot of noise and isnt very fast. Not to mention most (not all Chantainge!) Fit owner's around here are little old ladies.

My goals for this daily driver is a consistent 15 second 1/4 mile naturally aspirated with bolt-ons and weight reduction, 14s with nitrous. Plus I'd like for it to handle well also.

I paid $3200-ish CAD. It had 250,000 kms, was parked in a snow bank, full of dog hair/stink, had rust repaired and repainted the wrong color, leaked in the trunk and 3 doors and had an automatic ECU. I assume water somehow got to the ECU and the owner accidentally bought an auto ECU. Needless to say it had CELs for the O2 sensor and a few other things. Most were fixed by putting in a manual ECU and replacing the O2 sensor. All leaks were painstakingly fixed and I weighed most interior pieces in the process.

My first modification? A super stubby 1.5" antenna!

Sometime after that I got a set of VX wheels, repainted them flat black and proceeded to spend way too much time grinding down the stock front calipers to make them "Fit." It worked well enough. Yes, those are winter tires. Also painted the headlights and eventually the emblems and tailights and interior trims.

Little did I realize, all that steel dust embedded itself into my paint. Time for IronX!

Next on the list was T1R S-coils and new tires. I wanted to try smaller diameter tires and went with 175/60r13s. This gave lots of noticeable low-end torque and the light weight (22 lbs total per corner) improved mileage.

T1R s-coils on winter tires 175/70r13

175/60r13 tires

The drawbacks to this size: Only R compound or All Seasons, more fender gap, lowered the car another 0.6"

So after a couple weeks, my front passenger strut blew. Rather than paying $800 for new front struts, I decided to get with Function and Form Type IIs.

Due to the tiny tires, I was scraping on lots of stuff. Very stressful to drive this way! I decided to raise the car up so there was a 2 finger gap all around between tire and fender. Prior to this I had Unorthodox Racing pullies, an eBay cheapo CAI, and ballistic 8 cell battery installed. Also bought a Summit G2100 seat and made my own brackets to install it (check out my sig). And somewhere along the line I removed all A/C components! Oh and I found a great deal on a Tanabe Concept G axleback, which sounds perfect I might add.

Had the rust on the floorboards near the driver's and passengers' feet sanded off and repainted.

On my family trip to Japan I found great deals on LED taillights and 3rd brake light:

After being advised that my newly grinded brakes might not pass vehicle inspection, I decided to buy the Wilwood DPHA calipers (not installed yet). This needed 15" wheels so for now I am rockin Integra LS mesh wheels (which were sitting outside in someones yard, bought for $150) and new Toyo T1Rs in 195/45R15.

Here is after a few hours of sanding with a drill and brass brushes:

Tires waiting to go on

Installed, repainted gloss black, sorry not the clearest shots:

Decided to sell my eBay CAI, and bought a PRM intake to make my own ram air style intake. This is definitely function over form, not everyone's cup of tea but i like it.

Next I wanted to reduce more weight so I found this gnarly wheel that weighs 0.9 lbs. Unfortunately it was 5 bolt or 3 bolt only, so I found a 0.5" adapter from Forever Sharp steering online. Magically, it also works with regular momo style horn buttons, joy. Again, more for function than form. The momo wheel I am replacing has such a great feel to it but alas, I need to lose that weight!

What's next?

-Install Wilwood DPHA calipers (reduce weight by about 8 lbs total)
-Install Civic R18 throttle body ($63 CAD shipped to my door, totally worth it)
-Either finish exhaust with custom piping OR buy a catback exhaust (skunk2 looks nice, awaiting a deal on a used one as it is discontinued)
-Wait patiently for a Weapon R 4-2-1 long tube race header (5-10 whp across the powerband, don't mind if I do)
-Possibly build a conversion harness for using the JDM Fit gauge cluster
-remove more surface rust around the bumper supports and engine bay

And someday...have the car repainted! And actually get to the 1/4 mile track to race. Nearest one is about 2 hrs away unfortunately and with my work schedule its hard to get weekends free.

Thanks, if the strup is bigger than stock i'll buy yours. If you got the oem heatshield still, can you check if it'll be able to mount perfectly if mounting points were welded onto it.

Thanks.

Will do! Don't have the heat shield anymore tho. I'm fairly sure the primaries are 2-3 mm bigger than stock, if you search posts on the DC header on here you will find that as well. This explains the little or no loss on the low end but gains at the top end. I'll compare it to the weapon r race also.

I am guessing the Strup header is a DC replica. From what I have read the DC has primaries that are 3mm larger (31mm) than OEM (28mm). Probably also has a better flow path than OEM.
Are the primaries actually even with the manifold mounting surface? Most I have seen are usually recessed a little bit but in the pics of the Strup it looks...strange I guess.

I am guessing the Strup header is a DC replica. From what I have read the DC has primaries that are 3mm larger (31mm) than OEM (28mm). Probably also has a better flow path than OEM.
Are the primaries actually even with the manifold mounting surface? Most I have seen are usually recessed a little bit but in the pics of the Strup it looks...strange I guess.

On another note, how are you feeling about the F&F2 coilovers so far?

Looks good to me:

I like the F&F Type 2, price is great, ride is a little rougher than stock, comparable to the T1R springs actually. I haven't turned the damping up past 8 clicks yet but I imagine full stiffness will be great at the drag track.

Not sure if I mentioned that I installed an Ingalls engine torque damper a while back. I turned it on near full stiffness and I love it, shifts are smooth, no strong vibes in the cabin but it is noticeable. It's also a worthwhile investment. I plan on getting the innovative mounts when the stock ones fail.