Iran: Tales of Gloom

Mostafa Hakimian is the pseudonym of an Iranian diplomat who held
several senior positions in Ayatullah Ruhollah Khomeini's Islamic
government until he was ousted last year. Since then, Hakimian has
traveled to Iran secretly half a dozen times. Last week, after his
latest visit there, he shared his impressions with TIME.

When I went to Iran three months ago, I thought the situation could not
get any worse. I was wrong. The ruling clergy have turned Iran into one
huge funeral parlor. Death and the related ceremonies are the only
diversions available. A thick miasma of repression...