My friend has an 04 6.0 that he has torn down to replace the oil cooler that is under the intake. I advised that he remove the egr system while it is torn apart.
So, is there a kit or instuctions on doing this?

Thanks Bones,
I know it is lazy, but I was hoping someone could give me something where I did not have to join a new forum for. I do not own a powerstroke, nor plan on it. That sight won't give me any info. unless I sign up??

Well, I hope we made the right decision. We just ordered the block off plate because it is an 04. His egr cooler did not leak, He is changing the inner engine oil cooler and wanted to address this at the same time.

sorry I didnt get back to you sooner work has me in Mexico. The EGR cooler delete is not that hard to do. I can give you some sights to go to, but you really need to do some reading to let the idea sink in real well. there are a few kits you can buy to delete the EGR cooler, if you dont want to make one your self. A few tips....get a real long 3/8 inch extension to get up to the uppipe where it conects to the turbo Y pipe. If you have two sets of hands it will help. to get to where you can remove the Intake manifold and remove the EGR cooler will take about 5-8 hours total. Then depending on how well you can fabricate a delete kit will depend on the total time to do the kit. Me and a buddy can do this from start to finish in about 4 hours, and that includes removing the Uppipe and cutting the EGR port scoop from the uppipe. I dont believe the 04's had that. I would pressure test the intake manifold before you reinstall to make sure you dont have any leaks.

This isnt a hard mod to do, but I reccomend reading a lot so you are prepared for it. This is something everyone with a 6.0L should do. Dont listen to the BS people say about the 6.0L being a bad motor. Most of those people dont understand the first thing about diesels. I have a 02 duramax right now, and have owned 2 dmax's and cant wait to sell it to jump back into another 6.0L.

Of course the guys at the ford dealer told him the new stuff is great.

I would compare the cost of ARPS to the ford Headbolts and see how much more it would cost him. I have had 3 ID tuned 6.0Ls with extreme race tunes, as well as the Famous Looney tune and didnt take it easy on each of those trucks. Never had one issue with puking or the factory headbolts. Most people dont realize that the majority of puking issues comes from a bad EGR cooler, or an exhausted Oil cooler. Now if I were going to be using different injectors, and really bombing it I would opt for the ARPs. By the way Im pretty sure There is a special torquing sequence with the ARPs. I believe you have to torque the ARPs like 3 seperate seperate times with heatups in between. Not 100% sure on that, but I have heard that rumor before.

I would compare the cost of ARPS to the ford Headbolts and see how much more it would cost him. I have had 3 ID tuned 6.0Ls with extreme race tunes, as well as the Famous Looney tune and didnt take it easy on each of those trucks. Never had one issue with puking or the factory headbolts. Most people dont realize that the majority of puking issues comes from a bad EGR cooler, or an exhausted Oil cooler. Now if I were going to be using different injectors, and really bombing it I would opt for the ARPs. By the way Im pretty sure There is a special torquing sequence with the ARPs. I believe you have to torque the ARPs like 3 seperate seperate times with heatups in between. Not 100% sure on that, but I have heard that rumor before.

Thanks

He thinks he can save close to $500. if he goes with ford parts.

He is not into much tuning and it is still stock. He is eliminating the egr, and has a new oil cooler. From what you are saying, he would be ok with the ford parts.

Well, this truck still has problems. Now it hates to start. Pretty sure it is a FCIM problem. He did the solder repair found online (he is a competent solderer), that did not fix it. He has now had the fcim tested, and it is bad.

Well, this truck still has problems. Now it hates to start. Pretty sure it is a FCIM problem. He did the solder repair found online (he is a competent solderer), that did not fix it. He has now had the fcim tested, and it is bad.

Well, this truck still has problems. Now it hates to start. Pretty sure it is a FCIM problem. He did the solder repair found online (he is a competent solderer), that did not fix it. He has now had the fcim tested, and it is bad.

I would def. do the ID ficm over a refurb or new. Its higher voltage is supposed to be much better for the injectors and what not. I would also reccomend looking online by other companies. Many are doing this mod now, and you can sometimes find them in the 500 range. FICM repairs are easy, and once you do this mod, you should be good for a few hundred thousand miles.