(Also if any of you know of a good place to buy these parts from that would be great to know thanks)

If not will it work with any of these lt1 cylinder heads,LE Trickflow «

What type of camshaft, rocker arms, pistons,valve springs,or crank should I buy to support around my goal of about 500rwhp, I am having the block hot tanked tomorrow, I could also have it bored over to like a 355 or something. As of right now I am taking the engine Apart on an engine stand and plan on doing more research on everything I have asked. I also know I will half to have a forced induction to reach my goal I plan on building this engine for a while and realize how much money it will cost, if any of you have experience with it and would like to help me out by pointing me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

__________________Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them.

You got the heads right. Do not buy the Edelbrock intake. The factory one flow just as good if not better. If you want a even better intake, just send your factory intake to LE (http://elliottsportworks.com/) as well and he ports them and opens them up to accept a 58mm TB for 200.00. Give Lloyd a call and talk to him personally about your goals for your motor and he will point you in the right direction. He knows his stuff.

If you read the info in the link you posted it specfies that it will work with OEM heads but a gasket kit is recomended

"This intake is designed for 1994-95 LT4 engines but will also fit the 1992-97 LT1 engines with LT4 style cylinder heads. It is port matched to the factory LT4 cylinder heads and Edelbrock RPM XT 350-61939 heads. This intake may also be used with Edelbrock Performer LT1 cylinder heads 350-61909 or factory/OEM cylinder heads but gasket matching is recommended for optimum performance. "

Keep your factory intake. I'm still running a P&P factory intake you can make 500whp N/A.

You will have to have your factory heads ported r go with a set of AFR or TrickFlow heads and a pretty big cam if you stay with 350 or 355 CI. Going 383 you can pretty easily make 500 N/A. If your going FI with a 383 the power possibilities are only limited by your budget.

If you read the info in the link you posted it specfies that it will work with OEM heads but a gasket kit is recomended

"This intake is designed for 1994-95 LT4 engines but will also fit the 1992-97 LT1 engines with LT4 style cylinder heads. It is port matched to the factory LT4 cylinder heads and Edelbrock RPM XT 350-61939 heads. This intake may also be used with Edelbrock Performer LT1 cylinder heads 350-61909 or factory/OEM cylinder heads but gasket matching is recommended for optimum performance. "

Yea I saw that but I read somewhere else that it wouldn't line up with the holes right, I think I'm going to keep the stock one if it doesn't make a huge difference.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94 T/A

Keep your factory intake. I'm still running a P&P factory intake you can make 500whp N/A.

I like that idea of keeping the stock intake, I also would like a a 355ci but I like the way a 383 is sounding because I don't really have a set budget only a time restraint of cash flow lol, def. keeping it FI, and I'll check out the AFR and TrickFlow heads.

You will have to have your factory heads ported r go with a set of AFR or TrickFlow heads and a pretty big cam if you stay with 350 or 355 CI. Going 383 you can pretty easily make 500 N/A. If your going FI with a 383 the power possibilities are only limited by your budget.

Thanks for the help

__________________Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them.

You got the heads right. Do not buy the Edelbrock intake. The factory one flow just as good if not better. If you want a even better intake, just send your factory intake to LE (http://elliottsportworks.com/) as well and he ports them and opens them up to accept a 58mm TB for 200.00. Give Lloyd a call and talk to him personally about your goals for your motor and he will point you in the right direction. He knows his stuff.

I figured it wouldn't matter but some other post was talking about an lt4 build and the dude got a lot of hate for having the wrong info so idk, I also was on the elliotts port work site but didnt think anything of it, I'll give him a call and see where I go from there.
Thanks for the input!

__________________Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them.

Will these be fine after boring the block or would I need a different set of heads, these say there rated at 65cc combustion chambers, @ a 2.1 intake valve. And I also saw one with 70cc combustion and a 2.125 intake valve. Or should I go with a smaller one, either way will this one fit on a 383 bor for the lt1 350.

__________________Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them.

Will these be fine after boring the block or would I need a different set of heads, these say there rated at 65cc combustion chambers, @ a 2.1 intake valve. And I also saw one with 70cc combustion and a 2.125 intake valve. Or should I go with a smaller one, either way will this one fit on a 383 bor for the lt1 350.

Are those meant for the LT1? I didn't read anything in there but "standard 350"...LT1 are reverse cooling setups...different makeups entirely...

Are those meant for the LT1? I didn't read anything in there but "standard 350"...LT1 are reverse cooling setups...different makeups entirely...

Guess not I don't see anything about lt1 either I'm completely lost when it comes to cylinder heads and what to buy those were just the biggest intake valve for the cheapest I could find I'll keep searching and posting on here just to make sure but now that you mentioned that Ima look out for that

__________________Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them.

Guess not I don't see anything about lt1 either I'm completely lost when it comes to cylinder heads and what to buy those were just the biggest intake valve for the cheapest I could find I'll keep searching and posting on here just to make sure but now that you mentioned that Ima look out for that

What cam are you planning on? There are a lot of options for heads, but the cam, heads, injectors, etc., are the heart of it all....if the build plan is off...well, it may turn out to be a high priced boat anchor with half the potential it could have had...

For instance, the 210 cc'd runners with 2.10 intake valves is better used under forced induction...the velocity of that engine will be greatly reduced for a N/A application...not conducive to power making.

The best bet (and cheaper too) is just get a stage 3 port done on your stock heads with a 5 angle valve job and port out your stock intake...with a decent cam and some custom machine work you'd be knocking on about 475 to 500 hp right there...

What cam are you planning on? There are a lot of options for heads, but the cam, heads, injectors, etc., are the heart of it all....if the build plan is off...well, it may turn out to be a high priced boat anchor with half the potential it could have had...

For instance, the 210 cc'd runners with 2.10 intake valves is better used under forced induction...the velocity of that engine will be greatly reduced for a N/A application...not conducive to power making.

The best bet (and cheaper too) is just get a stage 3 port done on your stock heads with a 5 angle valve job and port out your stock intake...with a decent cam and some custom machine work you'd be knocking on about 475 to 500 hp right there...

Thats the thing I have been researching on cams and what I want done with my cylinder heads, I want to turbo, supercharge, or nitrous the engine. I dont really have a limit of money to spend and no limt of time it takes to spend i just have to figure out what to do to reach 500hp, I like what you said about the stock heads being ported and all buy not sure of how to go about doing that because I dont know if I can have the local machine shop do this or not. I was wanting to bor the engine and run bigger cylinder heads (intake) and a big cam(I am lost as to what cam i want something with a longish duration), turbo ect., pistons, crank, injectors, tune and be done. I wasnt really looking for a lot of power out of the heads but a whole lot of small things that would equal up to 500.
I'll look into what you said and I will check out cams.

I'm not trying to have people on the forums tell me everything because I know how annoying that is but i dont really know much about performance with this engine other than than the basics lol but if any one could suggest a cam for what i'm wanting (like if someone has a really good one and thinks it would be good for me) that would be awesome.

Sorry for such the long posts i probably should have been more specific from the begging lol.

__________________Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them.

Now don't take this wrong, but that is exactly what I was talking about...engine building (or blueprinting, really) is an art and a science...different arguments on which it is more of...

The heads you initially picked out wuld take you well into 700 hp range...not needed...

if you want forced induction, you can build a 350hp engine and drop some "boost" of some sort on it and produce the desired 500hp...but the cam, pistons, and CR are ENTIRELY different from a N/A car

You don't have a clue as to what to put and where (again, I'm not knocking you just saying what you already have), and with an unlimited budget why don't you just have someone build the engine for you?

The cam is the last component you get when building a motor. You have to decide of your going to have FI or nitrous and if FI turbo or supercharger and you will need to know how much boost, when it will come in etc...

Your best bet will be a custom grind. There are tons of people that will spec one out for you, personally I knew what I was looking for and spent some time on the phone with the reps from Comp Cams and we came up with a custom grind.

The cam is the last component you get when building a motor. You have to decide of your going to have FI or nitrous and if FI turbo or supercharger and you will need to know how much boost, when it will come in etc... Your best bet will be a custom grind. There are tons of people that will spec one out for you, personally I knew what I was looking for and spent some time on the phone with the reps from Comp Cams and we came up with a custom grind.

Yea that's what I'll do so I know from the start of the build what I'm doing with the engine Thanks

__________________Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them.