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How To: Inserting a side seam zip with pocket

This skirt was meant to have a center back zip along with side seam pockets. Instead I put the two together and combined the zip into the side seam pocket and thought I would share with you how I did it or basically winged it ;)

What You should Know First:

This is easier than it looks all you need to do is be able to insert an invisible zip.

The waist band was faced but I found it easier to attach the facing once the zip was in place.

This skirt also had lining but the lining fabric is treated as a single layer with the fashion fabric.

Prep:

Prior to inserting the zip and pockets and treating the lining and fabric as one layer, I made sure both side seams were over-locked

Construction Tips:

These are by no means a definite way to do this, just the way I did it.

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1. Pocket pieces should be kept separate, which makes it easier to place on the the skirt.

2. Taking the one pocket piece (Ignore that I have two in the pic) I lined it up on the right side of the skirt, with the corresponding notes. The pocket slightly extends onto the waist band but as long as the notches matched it's fine. I then pinned the pocket in place between the notches only.

3. I stitched in-between the two notches and then sniped further into the notch itself so it was almost touching the stitching line. This just makes the next part easier.

4. Once I'd stitched between the notches I flip the pocket over to the inside of the skirt. With a little wiggling around either side of the notches this will bring out the seams allowances above and below the pocket opening. . At this point I also stay stitch the pocket opening to the seam allowance, beneath it. (not seen in the pic)

5. whilst the pocket is now flipped into place. I took the second pocket piece and pined this one directly on top of the first one. Pining all along the outside edge of the pocket and then stitching the two together, outside edge only.

6. After stitching the pocket bags together I over-locked around the edge of the pocket. The top pocket bag will have it's opening edge extending out past the skirt. I fold this seam allowance back making sure to line it up with the pocket opening beneath it. I give it quick press to act as guide to where to place the zip.

Inserting the Zip.

Working on the side where the pocket is attached I started pining the zip in place by first pining it onto the waist band. As I reached the pocket opening I then pined the zip directly onto the extending pocket piece. Once past the pocket opening, I pin directly back on to the fabric.

I then stitched the zip in place and that's the tricky bit done. All I did then was attach the other of the zip to the remaining side seam, stitched the rest of the side seam together below the zip and attached the facing to the waist band and I was done.