Geneva travel guide

Author: Brian Johnston

STAYFour Seasons Hôtel des
Bergues
Opened in 1834, this grande dame of Swiss hotels has a city-centre
location on the Rhône River at its junction with Lake Geneva. Some
guest rooms have contemporary interiors; others are Louis Philippe
style. Many rooms have snow-capped alpine views. Public areas are
lavish, and service is impeccable but never stuffy. The hotel's
northern Italian eatery, Il Lago, has a new Michelin star; the
terrace of Le Bar des Bergues is a perfect summer hangout. 33
Quai des Bergues.

DOInternational Red Cross Museum
This compact, innovative museum, revamped in 2013, outlines the
history of the benevolent society founded in the 1860s by Geneva
businessman Henri Dunant. It explains its worldwide activities and
vividly illustrates the horrors of warfare through the ages.
Personal stories in the "chamber of witnesses" are compelling. It's
what a museum should be: thought-provoking and challenging. 17
Avenue de la Paix.

Promenades and parks
To take in the beauty of Geneva's lakeside setting and stunning
alpine views, start walking at Parc William Rappard in the city's
north through parks and along promenades to the city centre. Cross
the Mont Blanc bridge and continue past the floral clock and
through the Jardin Anglais to Parc des Eaux-Vives on the opposite
shore. This park is one of Geneva's most romantic spots,
particularly on a sunny day, surrounded by roses and towering
cedars.

SHOPLa Halle de Rive
Looking for fine fare for a park picnic? This covered market is
known for its regional cheeses, cold cuts, garlicky sausages,
chocolates and wines. On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, the
fruit-and-veg action expands outdoors. 29 Boulevard
Helvétique.

Auer Chocolatier
Queues form outside this city-centre shop for the truffles and
pralines that are made by hand each morning. 4 Rue du
Rive.

EATAuberge de Savièse
The down-at-heel Pâquis district, between the main station and
Lake Geneva, is favoured by locals for its authentic eateries. This
busy, family-run auberge serves popular Swiss dishes, including
raclette, lake fish and fondue; the combination of Gruyère,
Emmenthal and Vacherin cheeses is traditional. 20 rue des
Pâquis.

L'Olivier de Provence
This Provençal restaurant in fashionable Carouge has wooden beams,
starched linen and an open fire. The menu ranges from fish soup to
lamb with couscous; we like the guinea-fowl thighs with morel
mushrooms. The 50-franc lunch menu is a bargain. 13 rue
Jacques-Dalphin, Carouge.

Restaurant de l'Hôtel de
Ville
This upmarket brasserie is resolutely old-fashioned, with brusque
waiters perfecting Gallic impatience. Travel into the time warp for
regional cuisine that includes the lake fish omble chevalier in
butter sauce, seasonal game and local wine. 39
Grand-Rue.

DON'T MISS
Take a tram from the city centre to the Italianate suburb of
Carouge, founded in 1786 as Savoy's trading town. Go for the
relaxed vibe and the restaurants, cafés and boutique clockmakers
and chocolatiers.

SEASONAL SPIRIT
The festival of Escalade, held annually in early December,
celebrates the city's victory over Savoy in 1602 and features a
lamp-lit Old Town, food stalls, marching bands in historic costumes
and a horseback parade.

GETTING THEREEtihad and Emirates operate one-stop flights from
Australia to Geneva. The airport is four kilometres from the city
centre; taxis are plentiful, a train takes six minutes.