It looks like our friends from across the pond are having problems with the cvds. A couple of my friends and I have been running the SSG both on carpet and asphalt since they came out and never had that binding cvd problem I run 8x2 and brushless, no problems. I broke a bone and an axle a couple of times when I brushed a board on power with one-ways. Can it be your cold weather binding things up? Or maybe the wooden floors you guys race on?

Originally posted by Kenshin So you bore out the Ti dogbone to fit the actual barrel that holds the setscrew?

Yep. I'm actually going back to steel dogbones though. The pins that go into the 1 way drive cups wore extremely fast, and I was able to bend both dogbones. It was a hellish time in practice to get them bent, but 15 other drivers on the track with me bieng the only car running mod can do it in a hurry.

ive been running a sd for 6months now and only done one rear
a arm in and that was from hitting a board realy hard.
and just replaced the oneway pinion and spur as it was a bit chewed up.
ive stocked up on spares but dont use them.
no probs with cvds ether.
more money for hopups lol
rayspeed conversion and springs
alloy mip front cvds
alloy rear yok cvds
graphite shaft
ss shocks
this car rocks
one thing everyone on here has said you need
the associated spring retainers for the rs springs ive found thay
fit the standard ones fine had no probs but the springs are loose on the threaded collars.
has any one run a spool on there yoke and is a spool just a locked diff .
ive noticed you can get locking rings for the diff as a yok part.
yoks have taken off in aus again since thay brought out the sd.
good luck racing

The standard Yokomo driveshafts worked well initially - they seemed smooth enough and I just didn't worry about them. However on the 3rd run I noticed a rear arm broke during a very light glancing blow to a plastic track marker. On my 4th run the handling seemed weird and a c hub broke without me hitting anything. On closer inspection I found that 3 out of 4 drive shafts were siezed SOLID. To take them apart, the barrel actually had to be punched out with a pin-punch and hammer.

I doubt that the cause of this severe seizing is anything to do with temperature, track surface or what type of motor is used. I think that it's far more likely that the driveshafts provided in the kit that I assembled were just manufactured 'wrong'.

The fit of the barrel in the bone appears to be closer to an interferance fit rather than a clearance fit. I'm certain that the reason for this is that the coating (presumably this is added AFTER the machining has taken place) closes up the fit slightly, causing increased friction. CVDs on all the other cars I own (including other Yok's) last really well and I've only experienced this problem with the SD. Go figure. As I've already said, perhaps this problem is unique to certain batches of drive shafts.

yes...I just sold it over the weekend... it was so much smoother than the stock YOK's.... You'll need to get the set for the MR4TC.
front and rears... no need to change to front bones with the rears. the fronts work as they are. I've found that by moving the rear bones to the front the drive pins are at the very edge of the drive cups....

Originally posted by wcoyote I've found a really simple solution on breaking diff screws I used this on my YZ. I went to the hobby shop and actually got some same size mm screws that were for Model R/C Airplanes. Haven't broken one since. And that would be in years. Remember cars aren't the only RC things that need screws.

Thanks, good advice. Which hobby shop did you find the screws? Is it in Washington State? If not, I'm sure I can find them at one of the local shops I go to.

I Wanted to chime in on the Yokomo bones issue and say that I also have had an occasional problem with the Yok (as well as Tobee) bones bending and breaking. Since buying the car late summer, I have gone through about 5 sets of front (3 Tobee and 2 Yok --from the kit) CVDs. That's 10 total!

I recently picked up some of the old style hardened universal cvds from Yokomo in the hope that this will alleviate this annoying (not to mention expensive) problem. So far, so good.

I also had this problem with the old MR4TC and ultimately picked up the hardened Yok universals and that solved the problem for me...you might try doing the same.

Originally posted by rc-zombies yes...I just sold it over the weekend... it was so much smoother than the stock YOK's.... You'll need to get the set for the MR4TC.
front and rears... no need to change to front bones with the rears. the fronts work as they are. I've found that by moving the rear bones to the front the drive pins are at the very edge of the drive cups....

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