Winery of the week: Borjon, Amador

Winegrower Isy (Iscander) Borjón has a deep love of farming, imparted by his father, Jesus, a champion bull rider from Mexico who moved to Stockton to grow crops.

"Dad is retired now, but he's still the lead supervisor around here," says Borjón, who farms multiple vineyards throughout Amador County, including the famed Story vineyard, from which he sources barbera. He gets premium cabernet from Oak Knoll and St. Helena, which is transformed into the top-of-the-line "Bull Rider," an homage to Dad, whose image graces the label.

The lineup in the Plymouth tasting room, which is like stepping into old Mexico, will take you on a wild ride of depth and breadth. When you enter, an enormous tequila showcase (not open for tasting) greets you, along with bull-riding regalia and exquisite saddles that exhibit an attention to detail and polish equally apparent in the wines.

Begin with winemaker Joe Shebl's (Renwood, Helwig) strawberry-watermelon rosé of zinfandel and barbera, redolent of lilacs and roses. Lovers of sangiovese will enjoy the succulent 2011 Sangiovese Reposado, and barbera fans will adore the 2012 Barbera "Seleccion," which has strawberries, blood orange and lavender flavors.

The Los Portales line, a nod to Iberian varietals, is available for purchase, too. Choose from four different flights, including barbera, zinfandel, Reposado and Coleccion. I'd advise starting with the Reposado flight. You'll just have to come back again.

The sips: The 2012 Primitivo Reposado is a super-smooth dark cherry cigar with wallops of pepper, while the 2012 Petite Sirah Reposado, an intense bullwhip of dark leather and blackberries, will snap your taste buds to attention.