I recently gave a friend a Craftsman 9-inch Motorized Table Saw. It was free to me and my friend needed a small table saw. The model number is 113.24140 and it looks like it is a 1974 model from the owner’s manual. Here is a picture of it.

As you can see, it has a small wonky rail and fence on a rather large outfield table for it’s size. Even keeping the fence on the actual metal of the table saw, as it moves to the right, it is less and less square to the blade and can sometimes even come loose…probably from years of use with rough lumber.

What I’m looking for are some suggestions about an aftermarket rail and fence system that we can adapt to this saw and outfeed table. It doesn’t have to span the entire table but must be sturdy enough to stay square to the blade at the edge of the metal table and be safe to use.

Any ideas much appreciated. I know there must be some aftermarket fences that might be able to be adapted without too much difficulty.Thanks,Ellen

are you sure this one is motorized, they do make a model like this that you pedal to run, those who owned this type were always in shape, well i just wondered….LOL…..hi ellen….im going to write to you, ive got some news to share..

Takes three pieces of scrap lumber. Plywood triangle, a hardwood cleat that rides on the rail for the fence, and a 1×2 pine to raise the edge to the height you want..

There is the cleat, it is exactlly 90 degrees to the long edge. Cleat set lower than the top of the saw. 2 “C” clamps to clamp the fence where it needs to be. First to set the width of the cut. second to keep it squared up.

Now, IF you can get a “factory edge” at the corner. It will help. Factory edge, you also follow that to attach the 1×2 with screws to, It can be as tall as you want. Plywood sits right ON the tablesaw’s top. Counting screws….mine cost…$3 to make.

You CAN add plastic along the 1×2 to make things slide better. Might add a bit to the cost.

BTW: my Dad used this same saw for years. Fence was junk, adapted things to make it work.

I bought a besmier-type import from Busy Bee in Canada (allsame as Grislsy)and fitted it to an older Crapsman saw and once aligned worked perfectly. Ya I haqd to drill a feww holes, but worked like a charm.

until…..the arbor bearings started going jusdt a tad, Tried to sell it as a precision saw which would suit the weekend warrior for a couple of decades. Pay attention here…..no-one would take a bite on a saw set-up that would crank out cuts accurate to .002” they looked at the value of the saw not at all of the value of the fence. Sold for a pittance to someone who had no idea what kind ov value they got. In other words, if you want to invest in modifying a fence to fit, 5 yrs later when yu upgrade, yu might not get your investment back.‘And the fence, ya I used a hacksaw to cut down the rail, . after all it became a secondary saw which slipped under the outfeed table of the main saw.

Bottom line. look at import fences and don’t be afraid to use a hacksaw!If the hack will suit your needs for 10 years or so, go for it. . If yiu think you might upgrade to a more substantial saw with 5 years. think again about doing it now

If you want to ask if an old cradtsman saw will suffice for your needs, if yer a hobbiest, it will indeed last into your dotage. Mine saw easily 10 years of commercial service before it got retired. They don’t make low-ed saws like that anymore…..Parts are gonna be a problem., but 150 $ for a new fence and a little asattention to set up willl yield a great deal of precision to you r cuts.

Wish I could add a photo. It served me well commercially for more years than I would believe possible

Thanks everyone. This is a little old saw but it was free and the person who has it is comfortable using it (as opposed to my saw stop or my old grizzly). I’ll look at the plans to make a fence but I like the idea of buying one better. Your suggestions should work.Thanks.Ellen