avid sram xx brake drag w non oem pads

Hey Folks,
Had some sram xx (not 2012) that came off another bike
Running a regular avid rotor (not the xx rotors)
Super noisy so I check and pad material was spent and pad backing contacting rotor
I tried Kool stop and trucker co pads
I could not even get the rotor in the caliper w new pads Kool stop
so i gave up and got some trucker co pads

I forced the pistons back to flush with plastic tool, then screwdriver (carefully) on pad backings
Even let out some fluid of the system
The tool-less rotating "pads in" adjuster on the lever backed all the way out

Does anyone know if the xx series expects an xx rotor (w alum carrier) and that it's actually thinner than say a standard rotor

Or do I just have to wait for pads to wear down on my commuter
6 Rotor is fairly true but fork alignment is fairly wonky Kona rigid dj fork with locking skewers and washers to make up for the recessed sections (i think fork wants a solid nutted axle)

I would try bleeding them with a red bleed block in place. You should be able to run any pad made for Elixir. And the Cleansweep and Cleansweep X rotors are the same thickness. You might have to reposition the calipers too.

+1 ^^ almost always have to re-align the calipers with new pads esp pads that aren't OEM. The fact that you opened the system to let some DOT fluid out makes me think you probably got air in there now. You need to get the bleed kit and bleed your brakes.

Yup good idea, thank you
I do have air in there now actually since when i put the bike vertical on my bike tree then put flat
the lever hits the grip untill i pump it a few times
but its my understanding that the avids are an open system? unlike the older hayes? and more like new saint or older gustav m (but I could be wrong)
So air wont kill the brakes, but still not a good idea to have in there

I have the bleed kit and need to find those red thingys
I'll lube the pistons w brake fluid too and cycle them a bit too
I think they look like this

quick update
bleeding helped with the air i introduced into the line, but even with the bleed block (i used the shimano yellow one since the other one was on order) was still getting a lot of drag
So much so that the front wheel would stop if doing a short wheelie

Once i got those red things, i jammed the thin part in between the pads and loosened the bleed screw on top, pushed out some more fluid and was able to further push the pads into the calipers

Finally! they are not dragging but need to see what happens on the commute today

xx completely suck. Mine worked beautifully for a month, great initial bite, powerful, smooth, just awesome. And then they didn't work regardless of what i tried. Requires a perfectly true rotor and then maybe i could spin the wheel without rub but after a ride it would be off, stupid pistons dont retract correctly

If the pistons are all the way back into the bores and there is still drag, then the rotor may well be a fraction too wide for those brakes. The system will be setup for there to be the perfect pad/rotor gap with new pads and a new correct brand rotor of full thickness.
The non oem pads could have some more material on them, but it would seem to make sense for aftermarket manufacturers to match the stock pad thickness for best operation.

Is there a chance one or both pistons are sticking? If so, it would allow you to push the pads apart, but after the first time you apply the brakes they would rub again. Unless someone overfilled the system while it had worn pads, you shouldn't have to remove fluid from the system.

The 'pads in' adjuster on the lever does not affect the position of the pads. It only affects the lever position at which the pads begin to move. It's essentially a control for the amount of dead space in the beginning of the lever travel.