The Basement Tapes: Orhan Pamuk’s IstanbulBy Mark Mordue
For the Turkish writer Orhan Pamuk that crucial city is Istanbul. I’ve visited the place myself, and been taken with its minarets, mosques and fish markets, its sprawling yet oddly gnarled agglomeration of West and East, the traffic and

Gravel and Rust: Why Istanbul?By Roxie
So then the plan became I was going to fly into Athens, Greece, got to an island and rent a small room for a while, then make my way to Turkey and fly out of Istanbul. Which became far too complicated – planes, trains

Our first morning in Istanbul, the waiter in our small hotel served us the traditional Turkish breakfast of olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, crusty bread and steaming tea. As we finished, he beckoned us up the stairs to the rooftop.”