PLAN 1 "Original" - The first set of plans identified as "Original" are the plans based on the cabinet design that uses all Taito hardware. These plans hold the cabinet together with "L-Brackets" and require multiple drill holes for cabinet assembly. These plans have multiple penetrations on the side of the cabinet for carriage bolts. Original hardware is also needed for the monitor frame.

Plan 2 "No hardware" Uses no custom hardware outside of the reproduction monitor glass / monitor shroud clips and coin door. There are a minimal number of penetrations to the cabinet.

DXF File (CAD file.)

NO HARDWARE

Original

Files to Print

The below files are PDF documents of the plans that are printed to scale. These documents can be taken to your local print shop and printed on 36" wide media. The prints can then be applied to the wood and used as a template to cut the side panels of the cabinet. I have only included the side panels and any other panels that may be more difficult to cut.

Cabinet Art Files

Drawing specific notes

Bellow will be cutting notes for the cabinet. Unless otherwise specified, assume the below drawing specific notes apply to both sets of drawings.

The depth of cut of the pink highlighted areas is 1/2"

The depth of the cut in the pink highlighted areas is 1/4"

The depth of cut of the pink highlighted areas is 1/2"

This it the top of the cabinet. The depth of this cut is 1/4" (I do it .375"). The issue is that the cut is on the back side of the panel with respect to all of the other cuts. It will have to be cut twice.

On both sets of drawings, the highlighted area are drawn in only to assist with placement. The trapezoidal piece is 3/4 material (plywood) in the original.

The rectangular piece is 2" thick and bolted through the side of the cabinet in the original drawings only. It is used to support a monitor. Two bolts per side going "top down" are also used to hold the factory monitor frame in place. These are not pictured in the drawings.

This note only applies to the plans not using original hardware.

The areas highlighted below are for blocking. You can use whatever blocking you want, but this is how I did it. Using a Kreg Screw set, I cut 3 pockets in each of the larger blocking, and 2 in the smaller. I then glue the blocking in place and surface screw the blocking down. I then use Kreg Screws for assembly.

On the speaker panel and top, I also use Kreg screws. Just remember to set your panel thickness at 1" instead of .75" This is needed to offset the 1/4" groove.

If you aren't using these screws, you will need to do some blocking for the top and speaker panel.

This note only applies to the plans not using original hardware.

We need to create a shelf for the monitor. The area highlighted in pink is 3/4" plywood. this piece goes against the cabinet.

This note only applies to the plans not using original hardware.

The piece highlighted in pink is 3/4" plywood. This is the shelf for the monitor frame to sit on.

When installing the monitor, I would insert a screw to keep the frame from sliding too far forward during installation.

This note only applies to the plans not using original hardware.

The wooded frame for the monitor will fit in the shelf above. It is perfectly square, so it should allow you to easily rotate the monitor for horizontal and vertical games.

REFERENCE PHOTOS

Miscellaneous

This was a video I stumbled across cutting a Taito cab using the above plans. It is nice to see the plan being used.... and I am a little jealous of the space and CNC setup. As far as the Taito plans, hopefully everything fit together when completed.... =-)

Last updated 6/21/2016

Special thanks to the contribution by: Drew L. for verification of the Star Castle plans,KLOVer IVANX for verification of the Moon Patrol plans and cabinet pictures and Peter L. for Track and Field.

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