Description

A small 40-50 ft rock next to a small creek with 4 bolted routes from 10a to 11c. The rock is like metamorphic granite, it is pretty smooth and has features like new jack.

Getting There

The craig is about 2 miles east of Williamson on Angeles Crest Hwy 2. The gate is usually shut at Islip Saddle/Hwy 39 for the winter, when the gate is open drive about a 1/2 mile past it and park next to a old rock wall with a hand rail. Hike up and right on a climbers trail for about 10 mins and then cross the stream when you see the crag on the left.

You can get to the top easily, but the bolts to set up Loose Nut are kinda sketchy to get to to TR. We built a trad anchor at the top to clip into to get down to set it up. From there with another rope you can swing and climb over to set up Stripped Nut and Bandwagon. It looks pretty hard to try and set up Mount up for TR.

The names and ratings seem all mixed up. The guidebook is (L. to R.) 11c, 10a,(no two-bolt var.listed), 11a, 10b/c. The 10 b/c I thought was a TR. But what do I know? I didn't put these up. Ask Troy Mayr, or Jack et al.

Sorry, I never saw the guide for it. I Just got the names from RC.com, then went out and climbed them. I posted some comments about how some felt harder than what they were so maybe they are mixed up. Either way it's a real small place and all the routes are about the same rating. It's not like some beginner is gonna accidently hop on an 11+ thinking it's an 8. But I can try and edit it if you or someone knows the correct info.

Nice work, Tristan. As David indicated the old Williamson Rock guidebook lists the routes; 11c, 10a, 11a, & 10b/c, but they all seemed a bit harder. "Stripped Nut" was fun and exciting, on great orange rock, while "Loose Nut" climbs a challenging face with holds that lean awkwardly, to a great powerful tiered upper section. Definitely, worth a visit, but the routes are relatively short and as you state tumbling down the slope is a definite possibility.