Recently my driver's side window started giving me problems. It would work, then it wouldn't, then it would again..however, it is now stuck in the down position. When I push the switch to the up position, I hear a faint click but nothing happens.

I've taken off the door panel and have tried to push the window up by hand to no avail. Any advice on how to at least get the window up and stay up? More likely that the motor is bad or something else?

Thanks and if there's no voltage at the plug, what needs to be replaced? The relay? If there is voltage, how in the world do you replace the motor? I have the interior door panel off and the unit is riveted to the inner door panel..

Exciter570 wrote:Thanks and if there's no voltage at the plug, what needs to be replaced? The relay? If there is voltage, how in the world do you replace the motor? I have the interior door panel off and the unit is riveted to the inner door panel..

Replacing the motor: My best guess is to carefully cut the rivits and buy the right sized screws/bolts and locking nuts at a hardware store. I know the motor can be disassembled without removal as we have done that in the past and repaired a seized motor.

Fixing the voltage: If no voltage at the plug going to the motor from the switch then I would check for voltage on the plug going to the switch from the battery.If that supply is dead as well then check the breaker, I believe power windows get an auto resetting breaker (Rear window defogger gets its own too, I've had them go bad before).Also verify grounds and check the switch itself to see if it works or not when moved with the diode check function, it usually has a little speaker next to it as it makes a beep indicating it has a connection. Check for beep on leads before checking switch to see if the meter beeps first as some do not have the beeper function and display numbers only.

Worst case you can try applying 12 volts and ground directly to the motor to see if it moves at all, but be careful you do not break the window.I would also verify the window isn't stuck or binding on the tracks.

In some of my GM cars, the regulator motor has a internal circuit breaker which becomes sensitive. The window goes down but won't go up or goes up in short bursts. This is that circuit breaker device tripping. To get the window back up, you can try having someone pull up on the window while another person pushes the switch to the up position. By lifting the window, the motor pulls less current and the circuit breaker won't trip. The fix for this is to bypass the internal circuit breaker. It's a bit involved to explain but there were kits out there. You may be able to find more info on this at a G-body forum. I've come across this problem in my 94 Lumina van passenger side, 93 Lumina van drivers side and an early 90s Buick of my neighbors. I haven't had this problem with any Beretta's yet but that doesn't mean it can't happen. I assume GM uses the same regulators in all of it's cars.

Thanks guys, I had a mechanic test the motor today, I guess he put power to it directly and the window went up and told me it was the switch that is faulty.. that being said, I could not find a part on Rock Auto for a power window switch.. but did find this:

I have a 1992, the switch is similar looking to the one you posted, but not the same. I think I'm in for a junk yard hunt. I'm not sure if the mechanic checked the fuse/breaker to the switch, I will check that before finding/ buying another switch.

This is a zoom from one of my older photos of my 96 Beretta.That is the newer switch design. Sadly I can't seem to find a clear image online.

Unfortunately these newer switches are not being reproduced. I think another member may havemade a adapter to attach the older switch on the newer car at one point, but I can't find that at the moment.

Yup, that's the same switch I have in mine. I found some used ones online. Going to take my chances with one of those.. It's too bad the newer style is not being reproduced and strange that the old style is when the newer is not.

Exciter570 wrote:Yup, that's the same switch I have in mine. I found some used ones online. Going to take my chances with one of those.. It's too bad the newer style is not being reproduced and strange that the old style is when the newer is not.

I think its because the older style is simply 2 switches while the newer style I believe has a little extra and the auto down feature for the drivers door. Not sure as I never looked inside the newer switch before.