My latest E-bay purchase.3 Diebold locks. Two (left handed) 177-23, one 177-23B.Not sure what all is different on the 2 models? Cam and lever and lever spring. My plan is to clean and mount one 177-23 and the 177-23B.Dialing instruction for the 177-23...guessing it would be?R 4x to first #L 3x to second #R 2x to third #Left to retract bolt.I like how the dial goes to 100.

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Sooner or later I will be looking for 2 spline keys and a change Key.The locks didn't come with instructions....so how do you change the combo?There is no Change index as found on the other locks I have?

To change the combo just dial the combo to the opening index, then insert and turn the change key. Its flag should lift the fence, preventing it to drop into place while you set the new combo. Hope this makes sense.

Cheers

An old post of mine that you'd like to read is missing pictures? PM me and I'll fix them.

dial open by using old combo and stop when last number comes to opening index. insert change key through hole and press key in until end comes to a stop at case bottom. turn key CCW (left) approx 1/2 revolution to stop. pick your new combo numbers. (last number can't be between 75-100). dial new combo 4 left to 1st #, 3 right to 2nd #, 2 left to 3rd #. STOP. now turn change key CW (right) approx a 1/2 revolution to stop. remove change key. this is for RH mount. LH mount would be 4R-3L-2R.

"I dream of a world where, chickens can cross the road without having their motives questioned."......Ralph Waldo Emerson

Very interesting location and arrangement on the lever springs (pulling from opposite side on the right hand lock)Also is it just the the wheels were turned for the pic?, I can't see any of the gates on the wheel.

I haven't seen (or touched) many Diebolds, what's the general consensus on them?(Group 2 Between an S&G 6700 and a Lagard oval wheel or?) i kind of like the round lever toowonder was that older or newer design than S&G?

jharveee wrote:.....Not sure what all is different on the 2 models?.....

Not much I don't think. I know that many of the locks within this series were nearly identical.Even the smallest changes though would bring about a difference in the model numbers.For example, the 'B' suffix simply means a ball detent was added for stabilizing the bolt.

Of the few Diebolds I have, none of them came with that particular dial/dial ring setup.So I'm not familiar with it. If I had to guess though, I'd say it's not missing any parts.

Looking at your last picture it appears the portion at the base of the spindle wouldseat perfectly within the hole in the dial ring with no room for any additional parts.

Which doesn't leave you with many options. Threading the dial in or out some, or,moving the dial ring -- I'm sure you've already endlessly tried these tweaks. How about the other two dials? Have you tried placing them in that dial ring to see ifthey run any smoother? Maybe it would at least help narrow down the problem.

Hopefully someone that is more familiar with those will have some better thoughts.Great to see you're still at it my friend! Although it appears you've had about as much time as me this summer, lol. Hopefully this winter brings us both more spin-time.

Rough all the way around. I was thinking maybe a small flat Brass washer or spring washer. Grease, got any favorites for this purpose?Lock works great, just the metal on metal where the dial meets the base of the dial ring is a bother. The old pictures show globs of grease being used at the location where the back of the dial or start of the spindle meet the dial ring. I'll try lube before I go adding parts.Thanks for the tips. Yeah, I really like that stone paint for safe mounts.

I would suggest taking out the spline key and taking it out 1 turn. If that leaves too much back and forth play you could make some thin washers out of something as simple as a pop bottle and put those on the spindle between the dial and ring.

I would suggest taking out the spline key and taking it out 1 turn. If that leaves too much back and forth play you could make some thin washers out of something as simple as a pop bottle and put those on the spindle between the dial and ring.

Or purchase washers that are used for shimming ball bearings. They come in various sizes (mostly in ball bearing OD/ID plus tolerances) and usual thicknesses I've seen are 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.5, 1.0 and 2.0 mm. Cost is cents each.