A light appetizer of leeks that have been cooked and left to cool in a fragrant mixture of broth and wine, this dish is typical of the simple bistro fare that visitors to France in the 1950s would try to re-create when they returned home. The easy "Greek-style" treatment was also a popular way for the French to cook other vegetables such as mushrooms, artichoke hearts, celeriac or fennel. Once the leeks are combined with the onions and seasonings, simmer them very gently so they'll hold together and develop a good flavor.

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