Since you just get it Sunday, you shouldn't have to worry about this. Let the store worry about it. Don't even tell them what you've learned, just tell them it doesn't fly right from the start. Show them what is not flying right, which is obvious and let them deal with it. This are the perks of buying hobby grade Blade stuff.

But between you and us in this forum, I think the motor in your picture is sliding up. If all you could do was push it down my less than an mm, and it rode up again, that's not gonna solve the problem. To fix the problem, we need a pinion puller, or something like that to lower the pinion. Like I said, you shouldn't have to worry about that.

one of my motors has been loose in its mount for almost as long as I've owned my mcx2. In certain crashes it'll not only slide the pinion toward the path of the opposite rotating spur gear it'll actually contact it enough to completely bind the entire system up. I just push on the end of the motor can (which end depends on which motor is slipping and in which direction) with the tip of a table knife, screwdriver, ball point pen etc. At first it was quite difficult to push (actually a good thing) but it's been getting more loose over time. If it gets bad enough to become bothersome I'm just going to hot glue or epoxy it like the original black stuff (I'll remove the factory black stuff first)... probably epoxy as heat will just melt the glue

You mentioned your tail is vibrating... that's a whole other long winded discussion that sometimes rears its ugly head when people put on the carbon fiber tail boom. I have a long winded post somewhere about the causes and fixes for it and have also explained that the vibration is caused by one or a number of various things going on in the heli and is not caused by the boom itself (just a symptom) and is still present with the full body tail although not as visible to the eye... your observation is verification of that...

One of the many possible causes of vibration, many of which can be fixed or lessened, as you've noticed and rectified, is to prevent the bottom of the main shaft from contacting the battery cage brace. Some people have fixed this by, like you said, lowering the skids with grommets or o-rings... I elected to go right to the source and grind off the extra length of the shaft with my Dremel... I made it flush with the metal collar.

Thank you all for the help! I guess I was a little unclear in my earlier post.

What I meant is that I was able to (it took a decent amount of force) move the right side motor downward as that was the one I thought was coming in contact. I pushed it as far as I could, and that left it with a gap similar in size to the left side motor, so I thought I was in good shape.

I went to fly it, and it had the same "spazzed out" characteristics. I took it all apart and was able to confirm that the motor HAD stayed in place. Meaning that it was still showing an ample gap between the (lower) pinion gear and the (upper) main gear.

This was a gift to me, so returning and exchanging will be a bit of a hassle, but for the price I think there shouldn't be flaws like this right out of the box and I think an exchange is the approach I will take.

Also, my kit only had one battery door, but 2 screw driver kits with the grommets etc. Is this normal?

So I took mine outside today, very, very, light breeze. Man, this thing will NOT fly against the breeze straight on at all. I did not really have any problem controlling it and I am using the long swash ball position and the dx6i settings in MCX2 mod thread. If I got it flying sort of sideways and then got it going it would really start hauling A. But against the wind? Couldnt make any foreward progress at all. I know it's not an outdoor heli.

So I took mine outside today, very, very, light breeze. Man, this thing will NOT fly against the breeze straight on at all. I did not really have any problem controlling it and I am using the long swash ball position and the dx6i settings in MCX2 mod thread. If I got it flying sort of sideways and then got it going it would really start hauling A. But against the wind? Couldnt make any foreward progress at all. I know it's not an outdoor heli.

I can fly mine outdoors in a very slight breeze and get forward into the wind with a 1g weight in the nose. In combination with high rates, long swash balls, lubing the crap out of everything with Tri-Flow (much higher head speed), setting my static swash position tilted forward 5 full turns on my ELE servo arm... when I shove my ELE stick full forward and push the throttle to full it tilts the heli forward aggressively. Doing that combo in the house makes it take off forward like a bat outa hell... almost msr style

There's an outdoor video of it on my blog... I can find the exact time(s) in the video to look for it if you want.

That's alot of prep for flight! This Tri-Flow, what is it exactly? I use a product called Deoxit on my servos and for lubing plastic to plastic and plastic to metal surfaces. And I have used Corrosion X, a tiny drop on my motors for lube and protection. Seems to work well. But I have not heard of this Tri-Flow before. I am a lube and adhesive junkie, lol. I have so many lubes, oils, and adhesives it's crazy. I have it all for RC too, well 95% of it.

Thank you all for the help! I guess I was a little unclear in my earlier post.

What I meant is that I was able to (it took a decent amount of force) move the right side motor downward as that was the one I thought was coming in contact. I pushed it as far as I could, and that left it with a gap similar in size to the left side motor, so I thought I was in good shape.

I went to fly it, and it had the same "spazzed out" characteristics. I took it all apart and was able to confirm that the motor HAD stayed in place. Meaning that it was still showing an ample gap between the (lower) pinion gear and the (upper) main gear.

This was a gift to me, so returning and exchanging will be a bit of a hassle, but for the price I think there shouldn't be flaws like this right out of the box and I think an exchange is the approach I will take.

Also, my kit only had one battery door, but 2 screw driver kits with the grommets etc. Is this normal?

If you can, take the canopy off, hold it in your hand by the bottom and spin it up and see if it tries to spaz out on you in your hand. That way you might be able to see what is trying to bind up. as for battery door? what are you talking about there? If you mean cage as in being on the landing gear, then yes thats normal. 2 screwdrivers however isn't. They usually only give you one.

One of the many possible causes of vibration, many of which can be fixed or lessened, as you've noticed and rectified, is to prevent the bottom of the main shaft from contacting the battery cage brace. Some people have fixed this by, like you said, lowering the skids with grommets or o-rings... I elected to go right to the source and grind off the extra length of the shaft with my Dremel... I made it flush with the metal collar.

On your advice I did this too. Another thing that makes me go HMMMM....... Why don't they just shorten the shaft by 1/2mm? Hey, they could maybe save .000001% of the cost of a shaft!

That's alot of prep for flight! This Tri-Flow, what is it exactly? I use a product called Deoxit on my servos and for lubing plastic to plastic and plastic to metal surfaces. And I have used Corrosion X, a tiny drop on my motors for lube and protection. Seems to work well. But I have not heard of this Tri-Flow before. I am a lube and adhesive junkie, lol. I have so many lubes, oils, and adhesives it's crazy. I have it all for RC too, well 95% of it.

Tri-Flow Pinpoint Lubricator is a light machine type oil with Teflon similar to 3in1 oil but it's plastic safe and is very highly recommended and regarded here in the various forums. Never use actual 3in1 oil as it will eat certain plastics... at least in its original formulation. Mike will probably see this and pop in to recommend Break Free CLP... another fine lube option. I recently found out that for some reason Tri-Flow is no longer is offered in the stand alone applicator but can still be sourced packaged with the tube of red grease... which I recently purchased... just to get the oil, I like it that much Your LHS or online store might be sitting on some old stock.

On my first flight after the first time I lubed up my mcx2 with it (put it everywhere and not sparingly) I almost shot my mcx2 into the living-room wall... the headspeed was that much higher and caught me off guard... I'd say approaching 50% higher at full throttle and with my 1g weight in the nose

If you can, take the canopy off, hold it in your hand by the bottom and spin it up and see if it tries to spaz out on you in your hand. That way you might be able to see what is trying to bind up. as for battery door? what are you talking about there? If you mean cage as in being on the landing gear, then yes thats normal. 2 screwdrivers however isn't. They usually only give you one.

It shakes too much to accurately see what is happening when I hold it down.

The battery door I was referring to is the one that goes on the back of the controller and the charging dock. They are the same size but I only got one.

It shakes too much to accurately see what is happening when I hold it down.

The battery door I was referring to is the one that goes on the back of the controller and the charging dock. They are the same size but I only got one.

Unless they have changed something, they have never come with spare battery doors. Now if it shakes so bad when you are holding it and trying to spool it up, then you either have way to much slop in the shaft or you have bent the crap outta it. While this heli is pretty tough, a wrong hit or landing can sometimes cause you to bend the shaft, especially if you still had the blades spinning after the crash.

To see if you have a bad motor, try pulling it past the gears and spinning the motor, if it spins freely it should be good but if you hear any clicking in it, its probably bad. I had one that went out after a few days of flying, just a bad motor and it will happen on occasion.

Well a little update. I was able to push the motor down a bit to give the gear some clearance as mentioned in my previous post. I estimate it to be maybe 3/4 of a millimeter, about the same as the other. I also tightened up the lower gear against the bottom and got rid of the play. I was able to space out the landing gear using a spare grommet like the link depicted and that gave me enough room to slide the battery forward. I was stoked!

...until I flew it again. Problem is still there.

If I go to about replacing it, should I go to the place of purchase or straight to blade?

EDIT: I guess I should mention that I looked at the gap between the gears and the opposite motor and it appears to have remained "enlarged" so the motor did push back up.

Try removing the black plastic like adhesive that holds the motors in place with a sharp knife, line the motors up correctly, then hit them with a bit of epoxy or something.

Depending where you live returning it to blade may not be an option. I live in Germany so to get my warranty I have to send stuff back to the US. I have only done this once with my p51 mustang, and never again. It took months before I got my plane back, and even then they said that there was nothing wrong with it. So I cut it open and found a small piece of foam stuck in the servo which was making it jam. Moral of the story is if it is easy to fix do it yourself, unless you can live without your mCX2 for a considerable amount of time

Tri-Flow Pinpoint Lubricator is a light machine type oil with Teflon similar to 3in1 oil but it's plastic safe and is very highly recommended and regarded here in the various forums. Never use actual 3in1 oil as it will eat certain plastics... at least in its original formulation.

I just scored some off ebay

I used WD-40 on my old mcx2, which worked but is not recommended. My new mCX2 sits on the shelf collecting dust in between flights, so I thought it was about time to lube her up. I was actually gonna ask you what lube you used, cause I remembered you speaking highly of 1 in the past, but alas you posted the above and saved me the leg work out of coincidence

Thank you all for the help! I guess I was a little unclear in my earlier post.

What I meant is that I was able to (it took a decent amount of force) move the right side motor downward as that was the one I thought was coming in contact. I pushed it as far as I could, and that left it with a gap similar in size to the left side motor, so I thought I was in good shape.

I went to fly it, and it had the same "spazzed out" characteristics. I took it all apart and was able to confirm that the motor HAD stayed in place. Meaning that it was still showing an ample gap between the (lower) pinion gear and the (upper) main gear.

This was a gift to me, so returning and exchanging will be a bit of a hassle, but for the price I think there shouldn't be flaws like this right out of the box and I think an exchange is the approach I will take.

Also, my kit only had one battery door, but 2 screw driver kits with the grommets etc. Is this normal?

Sounds to me like your bushing holder slid down. This will give your top blades up and down play. First pull your top blades up then grasp both of the large gears (A & B). Now with a pair of needle nose pliers grasp the bushing holder (EFLH2213) and twist it back and fourth gently with some "upward" pressure. This will bring the bushing holder up closer to the top blades and take out the slop. You don't want it too tight. I use a dab of Sally Hanson Hard As Nails (clear) to keep this bushing in place so it doesn't slide down on the outer shaft.

Sounds to me like your bushing holder slid down. This will give your top blades up and down play. First pull your top blades up then grasp both of the large gears (A & B). Now with a pair of needle nose pliers grasp the bushing holder (EFLH2213) and twist it back and fourth gently with some "upward" pressure. This will bring the bushing holder up closer to the top blades and take out the slop. You don't want it too tight. I use a dab of Sally Hanson Hard As Nails (clear) to keep this bushing in place so it doesn't slide down on the outer shaft.

Mike.

Are you talking about the upper bearing? If so it should be pushed all the way down and doesn't require glue. You then push both the rotor gears up and tighten.

When building my mCX2's I take out the outershaft then use a flat surface to press down the upper bearing as much as possible