I went to surf at low tide. I expected bad waves but they were really good !

I started on a left, very good, long and hollow (i got a barrel) but it was in the current. After one hour, I crossed the channel to surf the right : no current and very good turn. I got a good backside barrel (but I diden't get out)

The swell was small and long. The tide was big (coef 100 ! ). But We found a small left that was very fun to surf ! It was in the current but it was rippable. after weeks of big swell, it was a real pleasure to surf like this. I put only 2 stars because it was other after 1 hour because of the tide.

The swell was annouced BIG (2.5m, 13s). Tibok thought it was possible to surf on a specific bank. I was not agree but I was wrong...

When we arrived, it seemed impossible to surf : too big, too much current, to much close outs. But a right seemed to break always at the same place.

We decided to jump into the water. It was huge and hard to pass outside. But we found really good waves to surf, big and hollow. Some ghost sets (3m...) washed from time to time the peak.It was a hard session.

The swell was very long (12s period). Waves at le gurp were not big enough : only 1.20 - 1.50 m. But it was barreling !! Waves were very fast : the take off was hard because the peak was moving all the time. As they were nobody in the water, I made a mistake about the size and took a board too big : the 6'8". Nethermind it was ok and I got 2 big tubes. A good session.

What a cold surprise, if seems that sans banks are back. I got fun walls and very waves. It was pretty to catch them. I got one good tube. In fact I took my biggest booties and it was hard to surf with them.

Was stayin in Ballina about 15km from Enniscrone so decided to go check it out.. managed to get a good few waves.. nothing massive but some nice clean left handers up neat the harbour. Was good to surf somewhere new. wouldn't mind headin back again on a bigger day to see what it's like!

I woke up at night and went to the north. I was not sure that it was the good plan. But when I arrived, I disovered perfect hollow waves whithout any surfers ! I jumped into the water and surf alone for 45mn.

I got maybe the longest waves I ever had in Bordeaux : 200m ! (long paddle back)/ After people came but it was not a problem. The most interesting sets took time to come in so I didn't took so many waves.

Sometimes every elements are here but it doesn't mean a good session. Long swell but too long (13s period), no wind. I went to Le grand Crohot and found perfect waves but they were unsurfable: the peak moved too much and it seem impossible to catch a wave.

I decided to go up north to Le Pin Sec. There was an incredible left, with a long hollow tube. I went at this peak with few other surfers. it was hard to catch waves but when you got it, it was superfast. My problem was a bodyboarder at the inside who tried to catch waves but refused them ! So it was very very frustrating as I let pass few bombs because of this... After the tide was too low...

After my failure at Nez Bayard, I cruised along the coast and went to Jx, a semi secret spot. I have heard about it since several years but never saw it worked. It was a big target for me. When I arrived, I discovered a fun pointbreak (in Normandy !). What a surprise !

The wave isn't very difficult and very fun with long walls. It breaks along the point. The landscape is great. Waves were only 1m but they were enjoyable. I think the wave can be very good at 1,5m height with a tube at the start.

I got plenty of waves as I was alone. My best memory this year in Normandy !

But it was just too big : waves closed out in the middle of the cove where it's usually the channel to paddle out to the reef.

I jumped into the water and I have been caught by this close out. In fact, it was not so difficult to paddle out but I felt a styrong current going out the cove. As I was alone, I didn't took the risk to have a problem and not being able to paddle back

2 years after my last session here, the wave started to break again. We were 2 surfers in the water. Waves weren't completely regular but it was more than surfable. I got a really good one next to the rocks.?

People, please start making an effort to get out of the way when people
are up and riding waves. This starts before the wave is 10 or 20 feet
from you. You should be able to tell long before the wave gets to you
whether you should go into the whitewater or over the shoulder away to
the left of the curl on a right breaking wave. If you can't get clear
of the rider's path, and the rideable part of the breaking face, you
should be paddling into the whitewater. If you are paddling to the
shoulder, you should be paddling AWAY from the rider so that you don't
interfere with the rider's cutback, or force them to slow down.

When you position yourself in the water, waiting for waves, if the
surfer to your left is better than you, you're in the wrong spot.
Skilled surfers sit as deep as their ability allows them to sit without
ruining waves for others. If you're less skilled than the surfer to
your left, all you're likely doing is paddling for a bunch of waves you
don't know yourself whether you'll make (because your ability level's
not good) and making life miserable for surfers who would be allowing
waves to pass to you if you would just be respectful and sit to their
left. You can't get down the line as fast as a surfer with a better
skill level than you, and that means you really have no business sitting
deeper than them. It's a kook move to even try, so don't be surprised when they guy who surfs pretty well that you've been trying to sit inside of all days yells at you the first chance he gets.

When you surf with consideration for others, everybody gets more waves, especially you if you're not as good as others in the line-up. It's been way out
of hand for years, but lately it's been really, really, really bad.

All time uncrowded session at the cave. Surf was getting bigger to the point where my 5 '11 stopped working.All the local boys were super cool. I loved Maui so much I am now back in California depressed because I scored amazing surf for 3 days at the Bay. The surf is cold, gutless, and small in Cali. I see why surfers from Maui hate California. I wish I had a wave like this in San Clemente. I wish I could live on Maui!

It was my first session on this semi secret spot. Actually, the surf and this spot are pretty bad but the landscape and the access were so beautiful that I was very happy to surf here. Pierre was with me.

It was my second session on the same spot but at high tide. We were only two ! I got fun waves, less fast than the morning but the take off was hardier a, with the tide, you had to take off nearly on the rocks then turn...

Managed to get a class wee surf sesh at East Strand, Got in about 11.30 am for about an hour and 45 mins. and managed to get some nice lefts and rights.. threw out a couple of bottom/top turns and a bit of a cut back.. lovin it.. then went for lunch and headed back in about 3pm for about 2 hours and the waves had gotten bigger in the sets.. was packed but still managed to get my fair share of waves.. lot of familiar faces in the water and good banter! Can't wait to get back up again now that the swell is startin to kick in properly after the summer lull!

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday October 30 2012 04:31:19 PM

Modified: Tuesday October 30 2012 04:31:19 PM

Hits: 2879

Session:

traditional beach resort on the stunning
and hidden island of Nyang-Nyang. The camp can sleep up to 2 people
until 10 person and provides a traditional feel with modern facilities.
Accompanied by an Indonesian family atmosphere, Camp Siberut offers a
unique and memorable stay. The Mentawai Islands have plenty of amazing
surf and breaks such as E'bay, Beng-Beng, Nipussi and Pitstop are all
within walking distance from camp. With white sandy beaches, palm trees
and coral reefs, Camp Siberut offers an exciting and priceless
experience.

THE ROOMS
The
rooms are basic and clean with mosquito nets over every bed. Bed sheets
get changed regularly while you stay. Fan in every room. Power jacks in
every room to charge your gadgets.

THE SURF
The Mentawai
Islands offer some of the best surf to be found anywhere, with more
perfect left and right handers in one region than anywhere on earth. The
surrounding water region attracts swells all year round with the most
consistent season generally being between March and November

my surf camp wave close (just onfoot)
Beng
Beng=>A very consistent world class wave, an extremely rippable
left. This spot is loads of fun and probably one of the easiest waves to
surf in the Mentawai's. It's the deepest and safest wave in the area
and also pick up a bit more swell than other locales. 5 more breaks in
the area, including E-Bay and Pitstops. Nestled inside a small bay with
one of the most scenic views imaginable all around you.

E-Bay=>This
is a hollow left that barrels off the take-off with a short wall down
the line. A great option when a lot of swell is hitting. A hollow, fast,
powerful left. A world class wave for experienced surfers. Watch out
for the two rocks on the inside. Great barrels, and turns into a surfing
paradise at 6 feet offshore. There is a heavy warble that hits as you
are taking off. Make the drop and don't get thrown by that first warble
and chances are you'll get a mean aqua blue barrel. The scenery alone
will blow you away. Besides its aesthetic beauty, double overhead E-bay
is a beast and forces to be reckon with.

Nipussi or Pussies=>A
shorter right that breaks down the point from Bank Vaults. Definitely
fun and rippable. Usually has fairly deep water from the takeoff to the
inside. Ends in a riptide that sucks all the water back out to sea. A
good option when there’s not much swell, and usually the most consistent
spot in the area.

Pitstops=> This is the right off the peak
at E-Bay. A playful right that can offer some cover-ups off the
take-off, but mostly a high performance wave with air sections at the
end. Ends in a sandy channel.

if you need flight from kuala lumpur to padang
All
access to the Mentawais is through the Sumatran city of Padang, which
fields international flights Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Flights into these
hubs will vary in price depending on where you are coming from and who
you are flying with, but Air Asia, a low cost carrier based out of
Malaysia, has been known to offer incredibly low fares that include
little more than taxes and airport fees. 30-day Indonesian visas are
available to practically everyone for a fee of around $25. Airport code:
PDG.

from from kuala lumpur to padang with flight then from
padang to siberut with ferry boat from harbour siberut to surf camp with
speed boat

if you need flight from jakarta to padang
=>www.garuda-indonesia
=>www.liaonair.com
if you need flight from kuala lumpur to padang
=>www.airasia.com

THE SURF
The
Mentawai Islands offer some of the best surf to be found anywhere, with
more perfect left and right handers in one region than anywhere on
earth. The surrounding water region attracts swells all year round with
the most consistent season generally being between March and November

this schedule about ferry boat from padang to mentawai islands and mentawai islands to padang

Took the day off for my B'Day and tried to get a birthday surf.. it wasn't happenin, So didn't actually get surfin myself but have just fnished the 1st part of my surf instructors course and called round to visit the guys at Troggs Surf School and ended up goin in to coach a group with them.. pure class.. It's awesome watchin some of the kids gettin standing for the 1st time and the smiles on their faces are priceless. Cant wait to get back up and do some more coachin!

Headin to Mullaghmore this weekend for a wee trip with the wife.. hopefully get a bit of surf while im down there and even if I do or don't I reckon a trip back to the port on Sunday is in order! lol

I came back here to verify if the sandbanks get better : not, it's still pretty bad... But the waves were good and 1 wave on 3, it was a good hollow run !

I got my BEST and most technical backside tube in my life : jump on my front feet (parallel to the stringer, important point), the backside arm in the wave face to slow down and the speed control. I was very happy because it means that I have recovered all my balance and it's maybe the best news.

And during the afternonn, I took a small airplane along the whole coast from montalivet to biscarrosse to find new sandbanks.... pretty efficient....