Moidules are 3d printable connectors for creating your own custom made shelving system at home! Here you can find the original set of 6 moidules in stl. -format and a catalogue with information and instructions. With Moidules you can basically custom make your shelving system for any space or purpose. In the catalogue I have 3 example bookshelves just to give an idea of what you can build with moidules. This original set works best with small/madium sized installations.

This original set of moidules is to use with 9mm board.
Click here to find moidules options (with screw holes) for 12mm board
---> thingiverse.com/thing:725671
Click here to find moidules options (with screw holes) for 1/2 inch board
---> thingiverse.com/thing:736398
For tiny/small installations I uploaded also set for 1/4 inch board.
---> thingiverse.com/thing:736403
(If you want to build sturdier and stronger shelf I recommend using 9mm, 12mm or 1/2 inch board.)

Tons of other great upgrade suggestions (like option for back panel, wall mount, drawer) on the list.

I’m waiting to see pictures of assembled Moidules bookshelves from around the world, in new colours and new designs, and I hope other designers get inspired, create and share accessories and new types of Moidules to let the project I started begin to have a life of its own!

ps. I dont recommend using very long boards as when unsupported they tend to bend in the middle if heavily loaded. With tall installations I recommend adding X-shaped structure to the back side to make it more steady. If somebody has time to model accessory for this that would be awesome!

This is the 5 speed transmission that comes bolted to the back of a 22RE. This is the 4WD version of the transmission so it has a mounting surface to bolt a transfer case to. I'll work to get a 2wd housing designed up, since the only difference is the rear section of the transmission. The transfer case will be the next thing I will upload

Fully working. All 5 speeds plus reverse. It uses a good amount of 3mm rod and 623zz bearings. M2.5 x 5mm set screws and nuts were used due to the small size of some of the parts.

Business card with touring bike plastic model, japanese size(a bit larger than U.S. card). Small plate for your name. Optimized for FDM printer with 0.4mm nozzle.
It's better to fix parts with instant glue in each assemble steps.

Generate your own nuts, bolts, washers and threaded rod by simply typing the required parameters into customizer. Great for replacing metal equivalents in many applications such as the ROLLER RING | Universal Filament Spool Holder thingiverse.com/thing:176442.
Includes options to generate WingNuts for easy hand tightening and removal. Now includes socket cap, socket button and socket countersunk head types with support for socket, phillips and slot drives.
You can also join threaded rod to form unlimited lengths by creating a custom extended joiner nut.
Uses the PolyScrewThread library from thingiverse.com/thing:8796

there could be a lot of things go wrong, here the most common ones
- your printbed is not leveled (should be better than layerheigth you're printing, e.g use a Micrometre)
- your axis (Y/X/Z) clearence (with higher speed you also get problems with the moving mass)
- your slicer and configuration (every slicer handles things different and could contain bugs)
- retract settings (not correctly set you will see blobs or holes on every retract position)
- to high temperature (small details will get overheated)
- to reach this time, your printer should run between 60-200mm/s, infill as fast as possible. not every printer works in this range, so try to figure out where you're printer limit is.
- text is hard to read > use a smaller nozzle/other slicer

No fiddling with screws and levers - this one-piece capo clips on with one hand. The presser bar is contoured for a radiused fretboard. Don't have a guitar? Print these for your friends and they'll stop laughing at you for being a geek! (Or, just print your own guitar: thingiverse.com/thing:710561)

A clever to tool to mark the center of a wooden sheet or beam. Just place the two legs around your piece you like too have marked in the center and mark a point or draw a line with a pen using one of the holes in the middle. THis tool is inspired from a a one time tool from woodpeckers, unfortunately not available any more, so I made one by myself using a 3D Printer.

Update - In the _v2 large corner pieces that I just uploaded, I removed the overhang that was causing the captured pieces to stick together in some prints. I have test printed another cube and the new _v2 pieces work great. I did have to tap the bottom of two of the large corners lightly with a pair of pliers to pop the middle loose. It took much less effort than before and I think they would have stayed separate if I had turned the temp down a little more during the print. The gold pictures are of the new one. I also realized that the one corner makes a nice little stand!

I was getting ready to print another copy of my Amazing Gyroscopic Cube Gears and got to thinking that while it is very cool that it is able to incorporate all of the motions it has, it is actually pretty plain. I incorporated a ton of hearts in many different ways when I created the Fantastical Gyroscopic Heart gears, but I wanted to something more artistic. 3D printing is after all a great platform for art work. So, I started thinking about what kind of styling really fit with it and immediately thought that a steampunk style would be perfect!

Given that the cube gears is the center piece of the Amazing Gyroscopic Cube Gears (I really need to think of shorter names) I decided to start there and got to work.

All eight of the corners and even the center piece have been steampunked. For the large gears, I wanted to add another level, so I modified them to print as two captured parts where the middle is tied to the cube center while the outside moves. This allowed me to add some interesting aspects. I felt that it wouldn't have the full effect without being painted to fit the style, so I went to the store and got an assortment of metallic acrylic paints and a fine point paint brush. I think that it turned out great!

Update - I added a couple of pictures of the progress I have made on the Steampunk gyroscopic cube gears I designed this cube for. The small and large rings and gears are complete and turning well. They are unpainted in the picture though. I am working on the uprights now.

Completely reverse engineered Toyota 22RE 4 cylinder engine. Can completely print a fully rotating model. Working crank, pistons, and valve train. The valves open and close!!!. It may not be the most exciting engine but its the only one I had in my garage. Great if you want to learn about engines and how the moving parts in them work. All parts are printed except for a few bearings and fasteners.
More than 3 days of total print time.
The block alone was 34 hours. So make sure you have a well calibrated and reliable printer.

UPDATES:
(3/8/15) PDF drawings detailing how to construct the USB controller for this project have been added under the source files. To create the PCB follow the 'Controller Perf Board' drawing. To assemble the controller follow the 'Controller Assembly' drawing as well as the pictures in the build album. For wiring the controller a schematic has been added under 'Controller Schematic'.
(3/14/15) Added zip files containing all parts as both Solidoworks and STEP part files in case anyone would like to modify some parts. Also added the Arduino code for the Teensy in the controller.
(3/29/14) Added PDFs of schematic for routing board as well as wiring guide for Raspberry Pi A+ to Thing Files. Also added link below to Youtube video (Credit to Floob) to help set controller in Retropie.

Intro:
Presenting my second handheld emulator project based on everyone's favorite sentient game console. The specs are as follows:

Video of the console in action can be found [HERE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZoUYxFBfE0)
Video of the first boot can be found [HERE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4L3Kxcf9RQ)
An overview album for the project can be found [HERE](http://imgur.com/a/TKhgi#0)
An album of the powered up pics can be found [HERE](http://imgur.com/a/P67BG)
An album of glamor shots can be found [HERE](http://imgur.com/a/20kVR)
A (massive) construction album is located [HERE](http://imgur.com/a/PugAX#0)
An album detailing construction of a charger adapter is [HERE](http://imgur.com/a/lK65T)

A detailed Bill of Material can be found [HERE](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ZtT_-XeWTKC-t4HU5V-r9FB1yQJsU7XtBpfnPrjJQCw/edit?usp=sharing)
A video link to help set up the controller can be found [HERE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBloKEbBRAU)

A small write-up of the project can be found in the instructions section.

As a specialist, le FabShop knows how to recognize a good 3D printer. We were impressed by the quality of the Zortrax M200 and its high quality ABS. Le FabShop's creative director, Samuel N. Bernier, designed a lamp that would use its entire build volume (an impressive 20x20x18.5cm). The lampshade he imagined has an aesthetic inspired by folded paper, the layers created by the M200 being so smooth they actually feel like a completely flat surface. The Susanna lamp can be used as a suspension or a table light. All you need to ad is an e27 socket with cable and an LED lightbulb to complete it.

Note:
Tolerances are tight - you will need a well calibrated printer.
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*Included are the following parts:
(You will need to print two of any side, or combination thereof)

*Outer side 1: a blank side, that forms the outer "handle"

*Outer side 1 with text: A customised "handle" with "dranoweb" embossed in, to remind you who made it (optional)

The gyro designs I saw on the internet were too heavy looking and used a lot of material, so I set out to make one that looked elegant and thin. It had it´s challenges, but after 5 prototypes and a lot of PLA, I arrived at Gyro Air. I don't like supports, so I made every form nice and round. The nipples that worked best are derived from the parametric gyro cube from smorloc

This is a 17 piece printable trumpet. It was modeled somewhat after a Bach Stradivarius. I have printed one myself and the sound quality and playability is honestly pretty bad. The reason I am posting my files is so people can try their hand at improving the design and to print it for themselves.
You can see more pictures of mine here: imgur.com/a/k68R2

It is a long difficult process to make this. Almost all the parts require post printing work and some require a lot of it. It's not something you're gonna make in an afternoon, or two, or three, or a week.

**Edit (3/8/15)** I have redesigned everything and started printing a new trumpet. The new version will be much more printer friendly (all the pieces will be under 5.5 inches) and I am fairly confident It will have a significantly better sound. For anyone who wants to print the new version send me a message on thingiverse and I will link you to a drop box with the files.

Perfect for a straight cut with the materials such as wood, steel, epoxy or small screws.
Use the table extension for larger piece or for more stability and control, but also protects spark when cutting steel.
The support of the drill is not of me, but it was made by a "mstrperson", you will find it here: thingiverse.com/thing:599893

We created this cute little articulated elephant last month for our friends in Nante, at IRT Jules Verne (France).
Their city is well known for their giant puppets. The most famous one is a huge robotic elephant, the size of a building.
Since they bought a lot of material from le FabShop, including a ton of MakerBots, our creative director, Samuel N. Bernier designed this little toy to be used as a goodie.
It had a great success, so we decided to share it with you.

Simple Bow Tie designed and simplified for 3D printing. Easy to print and assemble. We are taking advantage of flexibility of thin walls to form the structure of bow tie. Lightweight accessory with as little material as possible.

Business card that assembles into a Velociraptor. Small area to add information on tail.
Simply extrude cut into the stl file after import. Do not cut through all. Best results found to be using a depth of around .4 to .5mm.
Update: Added mirror images of parts to increase external quality. and small jaw pincher.

The redesigned 3D printed MHQ2 folding mini quadcopter frame has arrived! Building on the success of the original MHQ frame, we have improved the functionality, durability and stability of this frame. The MHQ2 uses the same arms and hardware from the MHQ with the addition of 4x more 18mm screws and 4x locknuts. The use of 6" props is possible with the new XL arms. Flight compilation video: youtube.com/watch?v=vrj7iZE8P1M

KEY NEW FEATURES:
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- Redesigned base with greatly reduced torsion for better flight stability.
- Camera and battery have a lower center of gravity. Both now mount down on the flight control deck.
- Hardtail mounting: you can skip the clean layer and mount the top plate directly to the base.
- Wider landing gear and slots on the underside of the baseplate for mounting the battery if preferred.
- Improved landing gear thickness and durability.
- Mounting holes for SMA extension cables.
- Integrated GoPro and Mobius mount. Reinforced structure reduces damage in a crash and elevates the GoPro for the use of a USB live-out FPV cable.
- Support for M3 "bobbin" style vibration dampeners.
- Now with 35mm spacers to support flight controllers with straight header pins.

[Video](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VX-0Laeczgk).
Stereographic projection is a map from the sphere to the plane: Imagine straight lines going from the north pole of the sphere down onto the plane. Each line hits the sphere in one point and the plane in one point. Stereographic projection maps that point on the sphere to the point on the plane.
If you put a light source at the north pole of this sculpture, the rays of light effectively do stereographic projection! The curves on the sphere cast shadows, mapping them to a straight line grid on the plane.
Stereographic projection is also available at [Shapeways](http://shpws.me/q41V).

Update: added a version of the file with a wider base for easier printing.

Simple sleeve to protect a Raspberry Pi B+ from falling screws. The main part of the case slides over the Raspberry Pi, and a cap fits around the connectors. The parts are only held in place by friction so it probably isn't a good option for transport or if you frequently plug / unplug devices (mine just sits under my printer running [Octoprint](http://octoprint.org)). Only the ports along the sides are exposed.

The cap part may need a small amount scaling on the z axis since the height can vary significantly with layer height and first layer thickness.

This safe / money box has a customisable five digit combination to be selected by the user.
Using the tool provided the safe can be disassembled only from the inside out, in order to change the combination.

The uploaded STL files are the once I’ve been using for my prototypes, as seen in the pictures, these are only 50% of the size I had untended that the final thing to be.
However I figured u guys would want to try out the merchandise before investing all the time and materials required for a full scale version.
If anyone dose have a mind to play about with the scale, it occurs to me that the Z value could be changed relative to the X and Y values to make the safe ether taller or more stout.