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Browsing through all of these threads, I have yet to see a major electrical or mechanical repair on these cars that most seem to run into and complain about (beside the HPFP which has seemed to calm down on the latter series vehicles). On other forums I paruse due to my other vehicles' issues, it's all about every different problem you can think of and the cars are of the same vintage as ours. So what I have become of aware of to this point is:

-I may have to replace my mechatronic sleeve (can do myself!) down the road for a
leak.
-If I go beyone 120K and my HPFP fails I will have to replace myself which I have a
link to a DIY for saved (looks easy enough).
-Tires are expensive.
-Turbos will eventually go out (but my SA repaired my waste gate acuators under
a TSB which may or may not help extend life...IDK). These seem the most pricey
potential replacements at 7K.
-electronic waterpump may go out around 80-100K (and is also a DIY and separate
from the inside of the timing cover and easy to replace but unit is pricey).
-Need to replace my spark plugs around 45K (easy).
-do oil and filter changes more frequently yourself.
-EXPENSIVE Battery replacement is possible at one point and a little complex!
-Transmission filter and drain needs done at approx 100k (there is a DIY on You Tube
and kit available for around $250.

From the cars I've owned over the years, these issues seem normal and I have done more and harder ones. Anyone have any other common more complex and pricey repairs that can lay you flat on this bad boy?

Water pump failures are not caused by lack of coolant changes which is an internal fluid problem issue. The ones reported with pictures show the electronics shorting out do to water infiltration especially salt water from those states that use it. Also the plastic housing is prone to cracking which again is more related to heat than any coolant issues.
Heat and water infiltration seem to be the common theme.

Intake valve cleaning. Hard to say because GM does not have this issue on their DI engines but VW and Audi have the worse issue BMW some as well. It has been reported by one poster that has 180K miles on his car that he had to have the valves done at 50K or so miles and changed oil to one with a higher flash point and changed more regularly than BMWs CBS recommends and has not had that return.

Turbos last forever unless you beat hell out of them. Most turbos will be fine when the engine is toast unless---you run the crap out of the engine when the oil is cold and I guarantee you will blow turbo seals and have what is called a lazy turbo(s) requiring replacement since they will not boost or boost to the psi the DME is requesting.

I don't have any issues with mine period. However I don't beat hell out of it or mod hell out of it either...

I'm definitely replacing the run flats with non run flats! This thing is way too stiff! Good call. I don't beat on my engine when cold so hopefully no Turbo issues and mostly freeway driving. What is "DI design" regarding the intake?