A Sangiovese primer with Colleen McKettrick

(posted 7/22/2011)

Though Sangiovese is commonly held to be a single grape variety it is in fact more like a clan of grape clones whose familial resemblance is as telling as the Medici profile and yet each variety brings its own charms. Here Colleen McKettrick shares with us the nuances of the Sangiovese clones: Prugnolo, Sangiovese Grosso, Brunello, and Morellino.

Featured Wines

Characteristics: Filled with intense red and black fruits in the nose, with hints of perfume. Flavors are dark cherries and coriander. The wine finished with a nice combination of sweet tannins and firm acidity.- Wine Tasting Notes by CM, February 2011

Characteristics: Sangiovese is Italy's most widely planted red grape and happily calls vineyards all over the southern 2/3rds of the country home. It is in the central province of Tuscany, however, that Sangiovese reigns supreme. Brunello di Montalcino is perhaps the greatest and most powerful expression of 100% Sangiovese, but the winemakers of the hill town of Montepulciano (Vino Nobile), those from all over the Chianti region, not to mention the new hotshots from the coastal Tuscan areas of Bolgheri and Marema would likely argue against categorically awarding that title to Brunello before (re)tasting their wares as well. Sangiovese at its best is far more than a "nice escort for tomato sauce", although the grape's natural acidity and savory herbal qualities really do make that pairing much more fact than caricature. Ranging from juicy, zesty, unwooded (and inexpensive) bottlings to full bodied, full throttle, 100% new French Oak presentations which are often as not blended with traditional French varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah Sangiovese today runs the gamut and can be a supremely enjoyable and useful partner at the dinner table.

Characteristics: Tradional winemaking yeilding tradional flavors. 100% Sangiovese from and excellent vintage. Soft and food-friendly with lively notes of wild berry, anise, almond and cola. The velvety mouthfeel is cleansing and bright yet there is enough structure and acidity to stand up to meat or cheesy pasta.- wine tasting note by JN, 9/9/11

Ripe black cherry and wild strawberry on the nose backed by black, candied licorice and a little spicy wood. Not heavy in the nose but plenty dark. The mouth today has tangy acidity and nice grippy tannins. Again, it's not heavy, but it's definitely a wine with edges. The fruit in the mouth echoes the nose nicely and finishes clean and bright. I think this wine will soften nicely in the coming 6 - 12 months. -WB, tasted March 2009.

The nose has flowers, ripe berries and minerals. This screams Brunello! Light, dried fruit on the palate. Great full body, round and fruity. A heady and decadent finish with lift and a little dried porcini.- Wine Tasting Notes by SM, 4/1/11

Characteristics: Explosive Brunello nose that just pulls you in; lead pencil, stoney, dusty country roads in the fall, well s[iced roasted meats. In your mouth the impression is mighty flashy with such an amalgam of things going on that it is hard to dissect into describable bits but here it goes. The fruit is marvelous and lush but in itself is not the dominate component. What impresses is that the acidity and alcohols propell the flavours all about in your mouth like a laser in the Hall of Mirrors. This is an excellent Brunello vintage and the Casanouve di Neri is a prize. Alcohol 14.5%. Notes by LAC. 9/20/2011.

"Intense ruby red color with whiffs of cherry and fresh berries in the nose. The dry wine, with elegant, balanced tannins and minerals, ischaracterized by a good acidity and a long,persistent finish."- Wine Tasting Note from the Winery

Characteristics: This wine shouts the pleasures of Tuscan earth. Beguiling aromas of mushroom and the ground. Layered flavors of the same with the addition of stewed fruits and spice. Plum, cherry, vanilla…it all keeps on coming and reminds one of what all the fuss has been about in Chianti for centuries.-wine tasting note by JN, June 2011

This wine is dark, as transparent as Italian lawmaking; deep, deep purple and black. Its colour is a powerful precursive... what is to be expected from a Chianti this dark? The nose introduces the wine with pomegranates but ultimately a mélange of figs and dark chocolate. The mouth is dense and sensually textured; the flavour is black fruits and dark roasted coffee beans. I find the tannins meaty and the acids in good balance. All this promises a wonderful and long future. I will definitely add some bottles of this to the wines my sister is saving for her grand-daughter, Aleyah, who was born in 2006. A caveat; a good number of people feel that no sangiovese based wine is suitable for long aging. I concur that they don’t take very many years to peak but well made ones are persistent. - Wine review by LAC. August, 2010.

Characteristics: Delicious traditional style Chainti. Tart cherry flavors with soft tannins. Dusty character with exceptional finesse on the finish. Excellent with any wild game or red sauce pastas!-wine tasting note by PCD, July 2011

This Chianti is very fragrant in the nose, with scents of violets, rose and eucalyptus. The flavors are filled with dark fruits, cedar and winter-mint. Tannins are firm on the finish, indicating nice aging potential for the next 4 to 5 years.- wine tasting note by CM, August 2010

Characteristics: A classic, easy drinking Chianti. Bring on the spicy sauce or sliced salami. The nose is plenty fresh but still has typical forest floor and tobacco aromas. Generous fruitiness in the mouth and nicely balanced. A fresh red wine with good flavour. - LAC 3/22/2010

The Corsini family has every right to claim the mantel of “the true Chianti” - their sons have taken time away from their roles as Princes of Florence (and as Pope) to make the wine at their home “Le Corti” since 1427 - before Columbus sailed to America! Even today there is something casually aristocratic about this classic Chianti – it envelopes you with supple fruit, luxuriously ripe black cherries and plums. The scents are sophisticated, the subtle smoke of hazelnut and butternut. The flavors are racy and elegant, full of tension and lean energy. The tart cherry last flavors linger on and are seductive - this wine is so harmonious and effortless that you might be a bit startled when the bottle is finished and you think back: this wine has captured all of your attention, without ever demanding it. Good Chianti is magic. -Wine Review by PD (tasted January 2009)

Characteristics: This is a high energy and vibrant, representative Morellino! Chiefly Morellino (read a special clone of Sangiovese that does well in this coastal clime), this has a bit more structure from 10% Syrah & Merlot. Albeit nervy (for which the great Sangiovese are known), this has a density and a richer quality than many of its Tuscan cousins with roasted notes, minty cherries, chewy tannins, and floral top notes that together make for a sensuous and textural wine I could drink for hours on end.Wine review by Nicholas D. Livingston, August 2011

"The colour is a brilliant ruby red. The bouquet is intensely fruity and the taste is full flavored with a wonderful freshness and harmony. Pair with a variety of plates, meats, pasta, or spicy dishes." - Tasting note from the winery

Characteristics: Typical, perfect expression of the Brolio terroir with its mineral nuance and intensity. Recalls mature fruits like black cherries and blackberries on the nose, with hints of chocolate. Full, round and structured on the palate, with toasty hints and sweet tannins. Lingering and very pleasant finish. - notes from the winery

An addendum: The winery notes are mostly right on but I feel they give the nose short shrift. Additionally there evolves with a bit of air a nose of cumin and Asian spice that is very satisfying. LAC. 11/07/2011

Characteristics: I'm just guessing but might this be governo Chianti? I mean 2009 in August 2010. I left my note taking to see if I could confirm this on the web but no luck. Anyway it is my suspicions are only reinforced at tasting the wine. Governo is where grape must is added to a wine just as it finishes alcoholic fermentation. It was originally used to reinvigorate a stuck fermentation but it produces a wine that is very pleasant early in its life. Rare in Chianti these days but great fun.

The nose is dark cherries, not a clear red cherry though the classic red cherry is a lovely component of the flavours. A really fun Chianti for early enjoyment; 2009 how much earlier could you get? If you haven’t had a governo before you owe it to yourself. – Wine review by LAC. September 2010.

Characteristics: This medium bodied Chianti is made from organically farmed Sangiovese. First is a floral plumy nose with enticing hints of licorice and leather. On the palate you get to enjoy fresh cherries - yum. It is an elegant wine with concentration and length.-wine tasting note by JN, August 2011

Characteristics: Made from 100% single vineyard Sangiovese, Selvapiana Bucerchiale achieves all that great Chianti should. It is expressive of place…showing terroir in the nose, along with a harmonious balance of strawberries and wild raspberries. The structure and backbone to this wine indicate it will age nicely for several years to come. Having tasted other bottlings of this wine that had over 25+ years of age, I can attest that Selvapiana is making some of the best handcrafted wines from Chianti today.- Wine Tasting Note by CM, February 2011

Characteristics: 100% Sangiovese Grosso, this wine is made by the Nardi family in northwest Montalcino, and is a screaming deal from a great vintage for Brunellos. The nose exhibits dark yet bright floral/wood aromatics – lavender and sandalwood. The palate lends red berries and with great acidity and structure. Clearly a wine with time in the bottle, but a sexy and youthful wine to drink now.- wine tasting note by DYB, March 2010