Serge Lutens: Cuir Mauresque

December 8, 2010

This winter at LES SENTEURS, the Ape will find himself well placed to select unusual new releases from the most adventurous and prestigious niche perfume houses of the world.

Take SERGE LUTENS, for instance: for over a decade now, Lutens has been synonymous with striking, dramatic and oriental eaux de parfum which reflect his palatial home in Morocco and admiration of the arts and colours of North Africa.

Rich, smoky and fruity, CUIR MAURESQUE has for many years been obtainable only at the Lutens Paris salon in the Palais Royal; now we Brits can explore this ambiguous blend of jasmine, orange blossom and mandarin which flowers on an intense and intricate base of amber, musk, cinnamon, nutmeg, civet and pepper. Dark burning notes of sweet smoky incense prolong this triumphantly florid experience.

Not for the beginner, maybe, although the total immersion method CAN work – like throwing a non-swimmer into the pool. By and large, Lutens suits an uninhibited, confident man with a sense of style and adventure. If you think you might have a go, bear in mind the provenance of the fragrance: remember that the creator is dark, olive-skinned and working with Near Eastern oils. His creations therefore may seem alien or outlandish to a very fair Anglo-Saxon, and not sit well on pale skin.

You’ll need to experiment but these are often germane considerations when choosing a scent: try and find a photo of the creator.

Remember he will be to an extent creating for himself, trying drafts of his perfume on his own skin. If you share the same style and complexion, chances are the scent will be a perfect fit.

Written by James Craven, LES SENTEURS’s nationally quoted fragrance archivist and expert chronicler of all things culturally fragrant, lends his invaluable service to the business as it continues to guide customers through its unparalleled collection of fine fragrance and scented accessories. Please visit Les Senteurs here: