Thought this might be of interest to fellow bunny-bashers. It's the ballistics for the Eley .22 subsonic hollowpoint round, assuming the rifle is zeroed at 50 yards. I worked it out to give me accuracy out to 100 yards, at 5-yard intervals.

Out of interest what sort of barrel length do you use? I was reading the other day you can get away with very short barrels on a .22LR without affecting accuracy. I'm also curious to know what make of ammo you prefer as the .22s I've shot have a tendency to jam or misfire and I think it's often down to the cheap ammo used.

Out of interest what sort of barrel length do you use? I was reading the other day you can get away with very short barrels on a .22LR without affecting accuracy. I'm also curious to know what make of ammo you prefer as the .22s I've shot have a tendency to jam or misfire and I think it's often down to the cheap ammo used.

I use a 16" barrel for my CZ, but a 20" barrel on my Browning t-bolt. I don't use semis as they're a bit inaccurate for the sort of shooting I do. Semis are great for 50-yard shooting with a lamp from a landrover, but not so much for walked-up shooting.

I always use Eley hollowpoint subs, as they're made on the same machines as some of Eley's higher grades of match ammo. They're much more consistent than Winchester. If you are taking longer head shots, then Eley is certainly worth the few pence more they cost.

If you are using a Ruger semi, then these are a bit prone to jam, especially as the .22 is a very dirty round. Strip out your mechanism every 300-400 rounds or so, remove the trigger assembly and spray it clean with some teflon-containing lubricant like Rem Oil, clean out the reciever well, reassemble and check zero. Most jams and misfires come from the trigger/hammer assembly clogging with unburned powder.

If you are using a Ruger semi, then these are a bit prone to jam, especially as the .22 is a very dirty round. Strip out your mechanism every 300-400 rounds or so, remove the trigger assembly and spray it clean with some teflon-containing lubricant like Rem Oil, clean out the reciever well, reassemble and check zero. Most jams and misfires come from the trigger/hammer assembly clogging with unburned powder.

I've certainly found the semi-autos often jam and also had plenty of misfires on simi and bolt actions. Some of this I expect to be down to cheap ammo but a fair bit down to an unclean rifle. Unfortunately the rifle club I go to doesn't keep the rifles as clean as they should. Time has come to get my own so I can look after it and get used to it before I shoot live quarry.

I'd recommend you have a look at the Browning T-bolt. The straight pull action makes it a lot faster than a standard bolt action, but more accurate than the semis.

When you want a scope, the Falcon Merlin is well worth a look. The sidewheel parallax makes it possible to add a night-sight if you wish, and in any case it's a lovely clear scope. Head shots at 100 yards are well within the capabilities of this combo. But I'd say the eley subs are a must. Winchesters supposedly pack a heavier punch for chest shots, but if you can nail the buns in the head, you avaoid meat damage and get a cleaner kill.

Not sure - they're only just reintroducing it. If you want the CZ, I'd recommend the one with the synthetic stock and the stainless barrel. It's a good rifle, but the only fault is that the blueing is so thin on the non-stainless models they're a bit prone to rust.

If you want the CZ, I'd recommend the one with the synthetic stock and the stainless barrel.

That's the one I thought I'd go for, quite cheap too. I think the barrel is nickel plated rather that s/steel though.

I think the barrel is stainless, and the other parts nickel plated. A tip with stainless barrels - when you get your rifle, clean it with a jag, patch and 009 solvent (removes grease), then fire five shots. Then brush and clean, then ten shots and so on until you're firing about forty shots. This should be enough for a good zero, and will also help condition the barrel. Stainless is harder than normal barrel steel and benefits from gentle breaking in to prevent excessive wear on the rifling when it's new.

If you want extra mags for it, I've got two ten-shots, nearly new, you can have for a tenner each.

I disagree on the 10/22 as not as good as I also have a 452 and co incidently also use Eley SS. In fact the Eley with its better lubricant cycles whereas others don't as reliably.

The CCI SS jams the breach in the 452 after about 30 rounds and has to be wire brushed, best to avoid CCI SS altogether.

I also stalk with a rest the same as Brownbear, probably use same tactics, field to field, quiet to fence line, then usually only get one or 2 off as bunnies, later in year, catch on and dissapear but the 10/22 does get you more than one if they are close together, a bolt re load loses aim and takes too long, although is quieter, at 75M the semi cannot be heard anyway at the target.

The CZ 452 with moderator is almost completely silent though, its a lung shot or a pass through that make sth noise, same with a 10/22

I got groups of 10mm at 50M with the 10/22, so it is very accurate although, as Brownbear says, heavy trigger, but you can alter this with any number of aftermarket parts. You can make a 10/22 using these and not have a single Ruger component...expensive though..

For bunnies though I don't adjust the clicks, I have worked out the mil dots on the scopefor the ranges, its quicker and for bunnies, speed is everything in daylight.