Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Insurance

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

07-23-2012 03:22 PM

cyclopsblown34

Try wiping the base off with rubbing alcohol on a rag before advancing to lacquer thinner. If you didn't activate the Chromabase and just reduced it, this ought to work. If what I think I read is correct, you'll have to step up to lacquer thinner but try rubbing alcohol first since it is way less aggressive and cheaper. The alcohol(like you can buy in any pharmacy off the shelf) will remove uncatalyzed base and clear, I just learned that trick due to an airbrush artist friend of mine having a learning experience on my son's hood. Talk to the store mangler at Slo Reilly and ask him if there's anything he can do for you, they'll usually jump through hoops to please you if you're a regular customer and courteous. Our local Slo'Reilly mixes nason, Chromabase and Spies-Hecker. Chromabase is a premium base and in 20 years of spraying as a hobbyist, I've not had bad luck with it. As for sanding, wet sand it to no finer than 600 grit so the new base has something to bite to.

Good luck,
Chip.

07-23-2012 06:15 AM

deadbodyman

Quote:

Originally Posted by jam17150

Lizer thats a good question. I think it has something to do with the fact I'm ate up with the dumb a.. The little light bulb did come on and I thought for a moment this didnt look right at all. I guess I talked myself into it because I ran it through a filter. I did not inspect the chunks close enough to realize they where granulated chuncks stuck together. I have no experience with this stuff. Hell I never used bondo before this learning experience. I must say damn that **** dries in a hurry. I spent about a month reading as much as i could. You cant beat good old experience. Maybe in my case just good old common sense(which ever way you want to look at it). I'm pretty bumbed about it but I dont see it as a total loss now. I have learned some very good knowledge and I feel like i could do some grade A body work/ paint job on the next one.

I'm going to give some of the advice i recieved a try and chalk this up as a learning experience.

Yup, Thats all you can do...we've all been there ...

07-23-2012 06:13 AM

deadbodyman

Quote:

Originally Posted by jam17150

Thanks dead for the advice. I'm going to give lacquer thinner a try. I guess I should wipe way base and wetsand 500 grit reshoot base and clear? Will I have to put more primer on. Thanks again guys have a very helpful community
sorry for spelling and grammer doing this on a phone

Did you shoot clear on it? That wont wash off with thinner niether will a 2k primer..if its cleaerd you'll have to sand it off ,doing it by hand will be a pita ,I'd go with 400 wet or maybe 320 wet to get the clear off and then 400 wet for the rest.it'll take time but you wont have to reprime and sand.
I'm very surprised to hear they mix the paint at the store...

07-22-2012 11:05 PM

jam17150

Lizer thats a good question. I think it has something to do with the fact I'm ate up with the dumb a.. The little light bulb did come on and I thought for a moment this didnt look right at all. I guess I talked myself into it because I ran it through a filter. I did not inspect the chunks close enough to realize they where granulated chuncks stuck together. I have no experience with this stuff. Hell I never used bondo before this learning experience. I must say damn that **** dries in a hurry. I spent about a month reading as much as i could. You cant beat good old experience. Maybe in my case just good old common sense(which ever way you want to look at it). I'm pretty bumbed about it but I dont see it as a total loss now. I have learned some very good knowledge and I feel like i could do some grade A body work/ paint job on the next one.

I'm going to give some of the advice i recieved a try and chalk this up as a learning experience.

07-22-2012 09:51 PM

Lizer

That's kind of a serious boo-boo on O'reilly's part. They messed up your entire paint job. You can bet I'd be taking this higher up the food chain to get some more kick back for my pains.

The question remains...when you saw all the gray crap and chunks, why did you still spray?

07-22-2012 03:36 PM

jam17150

Thanks dead for the advice. I'm going to give lacquer thinner a try. I guess I should wipe way base and wetsand 500 grit reshoot base and clear? Will I have to put more primer on. Thanks again guys have a very helpful community
sorry for spelling and grammer doing this on a phone

07-22-2012 02:46 PM

deadbodyman

You HAVE to use the basemaker.bring your paint down to the store and have them reduce it with a little basemaker (no activetor) and see if it does the same thing...what your reducing it with is for acrilic enamel single stage (if I remember the numbers correctly)..
The only problem with sanding the base off is it clogs the paper too fast..it can be done if you slow the DA down as slow as it can go but its slow and expensive.thinner works like a charm (I've screwd up a few too)..When doing the plastic be quick about it and dont leave the thinner soaked rag on the plastic parts. It shouldnt be any problem getting it off plastic as long as you used a 2K primer.These guys at O'rielys dont know jack about paint,They can bairly order the right parts for your car....I knew they had Nason but its just factory packs here and they dont mix anything themselves.Our store dosent sell Chroma base...I went there one time on a sunday for an emergancy job and got so frustrated with the guy ,i never went back..

07-22-2012 02:28 PM

jam17150

well I went to O'riellys. I had them take a look at the filters and they didnt seem to have a clue what it was. Then they went to go shoot me some more paint and noticed some grey crap in their yellow dispenser. They cleaned it out and the new paint filtered with nothing in it. I dont have the time or money to start over and some of the plastic pieces will not survive harsh strippers. Guess I can help put an end to the debate about sanding chromabase. I just hope this experiment does not prove there will be adhesion problems. What grit should i wet sand? Was thinking of using 800. Would that be best to get the debris out? Going to sand as light as i can to remove debris but not sand it flat. Then im going to shoot another base coat and clear.

07-22-2012 09:30 AM

jam17150

Thank you so much for the reply's freaking out over here. Mitmaks I read the tech sheets and was wondering the same thing. It says to use basemaker and an activator. I went back in to double make sure there was not a screw up and they said I was good to go to mix chromabase 7785s activator reducer in a 1:1 ratio. I just figured he was saving me some money. Even if that was bad info this grey stuff was in the base color before I mixed anything. I even filtered the activator reducer seperatly and nothing was in the filter from that stuff. BarryK I am not blaming dupont for this I realize that the chances of just my paint coming from the plant is slim. If they made a bad batch there would be a crap ton of complaints I could find online. As far as this stuff getting pass a 25 micron filter I dont know. Its extremly fine but its stuck together in chunks. I dont have the tech knowledge of what an amine and iso is so if you could explain further that would be great. This stuff was in the can and i have no idea how it could have ever gotten in there. It was in there before I ever opened the can. I figure it was something mixed incorrect at orielly's since this is not a color straight off the shelf. Dead can i use lacquer thinner to remove this stuff on plastic? Tim thanks for your response I wish I could just sand this down but chromabase will have some serious problems if I do from what I have read. Thank you guys so much for taking the time to respond I really do appreciate it.

07-22-2012 08:52 AM

timothale

gunk paint.

you are painting plastic parts. some of the thinners-solvents are not compatable with certain plastics. the last car I painted was 15 years ago , I got the color free. My son was taking an auto painting class at the college and the fire dept did an inspection of an auto body shop in town and they had way too much materials not stored in fire rated cabinets. The shop had 24 hour correction notice so the owner loaded up his truck and took it to the class and everybody got to pick out what they wanted. Junior picked out 2 colors of the same mfg and type of paint. I went to the auto body-paint supplier in town with the cans and still spent $ 300 for the correct primers for metal, plastic and aluminum trim, reducers. etc. 40 + years ago I spent all summer getting my car ready for paint, I had 2 days before having to go off to college, I rented a compressor and gun. My sister had a brand new house and she let me use her garage. It was over 100 degrees and when I mixed the reducer and tried to spray I blew cobwebs out of the gun. ai panicked and asked a couple guys that I knew and they said wait until it gets below 80 * but no time. so I thinned and thinned and thinned but the acrylic laquer still came out very dry. I went ahead and sprayed it on anyway. It looked like tinted primer, very dry finish. after a couple months to cure I thought i would start to sand it down and recoat. I was using 400 wet paper and the finish looked excellet wet. the surface was smooth as glass . I rubbed out a spot and it looked like clear glass over fine sand . I finished sanding and hand rubbed it out and everyone asked how I got the custom finish.

07-22-2012 06:02 AM

deadbodyman

Chroma base has to be reduced with their own " Base maker" ONLY...Thats your whole problem...(I've done it) What you painted has to come off so I hope you used a 2 K primer because washing the base off is easiest and fastest with lacquer thinner and if you used a" lacquer" primer that'll come off too.

07-22-2012 03:58 AM

BarryK

Not knowing what you are doing, I don't understand how you can trash Dupont as having sent you some trash????

I can tell you this from looking at the picture, Dupont could not have sent you anything that looks like the mess you HAVE as it would have never made it through the filling machines or the 10-25 micron bag filter they may use.

What caused this is plain as day, two very incompatible items were mixed together.
Looks like an amine and an ISO got mixed.
Or primer was drying in a cup for a few hours and then base was mixed in same cup.

Strip it buy more and read the directions before you use the stuff, not after you have a problem.

07-22-2012 01:14 AM

mitmaks

Quote:

Originally Posted by jam17150

hello,
Been lurking the forums reading as much as i can to educate myself on how to paint. I followed all the advice with my prep work and everything was going well. Then I purchesed some paint from O'rielly's..... This was my first paint job so I had no idea the paint I was about to spray onto my perfect primer job was total garbage. I baught some chromabase paint and mixed it 1:1 with a reducer/activater. I pored it through a filter and was suprised that it stoped straining because the filter was clogged. I had to change filters four times to get one pint of paint in my cup. Well being the newb I am I had no clue that was not normal. Just figured thats why u filter it like an idiot. Well when I went to go paint my parts I sprayed air then took a tac cloth to each part to double make sure there was no debris left on the parts. I sprayed the paint and there is a ton of debris being sprayed along with the paint. I am not sure what it is. Its a grey gunk that was in the paint. When you rub it between your fingers its almost like bondo without the hardner. If anyone can figure out what it is so I can let them know at O'rielly's that would be a big help. I think I may have just gotten the shaft and destroyed some parts since they are plastic. If anyone can tell me how to fix this would help as well. I can not color sand this paint and the whole thing needs sanded down. I could strip/sand the metal parts and start over but I dont know what i could do with the plastic parts????. Sorry for the wall of text just bumbed about this if anyone has any advice I would greatly appreciate it.

You mentioned 1:1 reducer/activator? Reducer and activator are two different things.

07-22-2012 01:13 AM

mitmaks

You're going have to redo this, resand all the parts that got ruined and start over. Next time might want to use better quality materials.

07-22-2012 01:01 AM

jam17150

The paint job doesnt need to be perfect is it possible to spray clear on top of the debris and wet sand the clear? The particles are sand grand size. Thats the reason they got past the filter small enough to fit through screen. I cant color sand this base but I can sand the clear. Would this help at all?

This thread has more than 15 replies.
Click here to review the whole thread.