TTR 250 Won't Start when frickin cold

By Ordrock, Posted January 22, 2013

I have had the carb cleaned and still not much luck with starting this thing when it’s cold. Are there some suggestions for correcting my problem? It has a new petcock with the filters, and a new sparkplug.

With the chock pulled out and a couple of twists on the throttle, we hit the start button, and it’ll catch for about 1 second then die. Do the same thing over again and it’ll catch then die.

The damn battery goes low so we have to put it on the charger for a while to try it again. I rode the bike after cleaning the carb. After putting it on, turning on the fuel and hitting the start button it fired right up. I took it on a 20 mile over the road ride, watching for the PO PO, and it ran fine.

The next morning, confident of my work and with the temp at 20 degrees F, the damn bike would not start, just catch for about a second and run the battery down.

What can be the problem? Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks

Scott

Semper FI

IYAOYAS

By William1, Posted January 22, 2013

Try a larger starter jet, go up three sizes

By Ordrock, Posted January 23, 2013

What the &%$#@! happened with this posting?

By shrubitup, Posted January 23, 2013

richen your fuel screw by turning it outwards. also, buy a new pilot jet as old was just jam up. buy a range for the weather you typically ride in.

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This replaces the tube that connects the two carbs on a 1987 Honda XR600R (it may fit other years).
Made in the USA.
Constructed of TPU (solvent safe plastic.)
Its durable stiff abrasion resistant yet flexible enough you never have to worry about breaking it when you're taking apart your carbs.
Fits the o-ring perfectly and slips into the carb nice and tight.
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If you would like to buy one contact me via e-mail. They cost $20 Shipping is free (anywhere in the USA). $10 off for active duty or retired military.
Cjmrizek@gmail.com
Make your subject: XR600r

This replaces the tube that connects the two carbs on a 1987 Honda XR600R (it may fit other years).
Made in the USA.
Constructed of TPU (solvent safe plastic.)
Its durable stiff abrasion resistant yet flexible enough you never have to worry about breaking it when you're taking apart your carbs.
Fits the o-ring perfectly and slips into the carb nice and tight.
Matches the rear shock coil.
length is Aprox. 34mm
If you would like to buy one contact me via e-mail. They cost $40 Shipping is free (anywhere in the USA). $10 off for active duty or retired military.
Cjmrizek@gmail.com
Make your subject: XR600r

This replaces the tube that connects the two carbs on a 1987 Honda XR600R (it may fit other years).
Made in the USA.
Constructed of TPU (solvent safe plastic.)
Its durable stiff abrasion resistant yet flexible enough you never have to worry about breaking it when you're taking apart your carbs.
Fits the o-ring perfectly and slips into the carb nice and tight.
Matches the rear shock coil.
If you would like to buy one contact me via e-mail. They cost $40 Shipping is free (anywhere in the USA). $10 off for active duty or retired military.
Cjmrizek@gmail.com
Make your subject: XR600r

I bought a 2006 YZ250, have ridden it 5 times. It needs some tuning, but I am not sure I'm keeping it so don't want to spend much on it.
Has fmf gnarly expansion chamber and turbine core silencer.
I ride about 1000 feet above sea level.
I'm going to clean the carb and check the jetting. What is a good jetting for me? 85 main jet?
Also check the reeds. Is there a big difference between getting aftermarket reed cage and reeds or just getting a cheap aftermarket set of reeds that fit the stock cage ie. Boyesen Power Reeds?
The other things I'm going to do is permatex all the joints in the exhaust system and a compression test. It was 220psi 5 rides ago so I'm guessing itll be fine. Its bogging a bit but I'm thinking its carb and definitely exhaust joint related.
Let me know if I'm overlooking anything that could make the bike run crisper and more bottom end without throwing much money on parts

I bought a 2006 YZ250, have ridden it 5 times. It needs some tuning, but I am not sure I'm keeping it so don't want to spend much on it.
Has fmf gnarly expansion chamber and turbine core silencer.
I ride about 1000 feet above sea level.
I'm going to clean the carb and check the jetting. What is a good jetting for me? 85 main jet?
Also check the reeds. Is there a big difference between getting aftermarket reed cage and reeds or just getting a cheap aftermarket set of reeds that fit the stock cage ie. Boyesen Power Reeds?
The other things I'm going to do is permatex all the joints in the exhaust system and a compression test. It was 220psi 5 rides ago so I'm guessing itll be fine. Its bogging a bit but I'm thinking its carb and definitely exhaust joint related.
Let me know if I'm overlooking anything that could make the bike run crisper and more bottom end without throwing much money on parts