First, a bit of advice. If your bushings are good, I'd still remove the vertical bolt and dope it up with permatex #3
if you plan on keeping it or just want to do a major favor to humanity. Likewise, anything under chassis.

Here's what we're looking at:

First, block wheels & set parking brake.

Loosen wheel
Jack up car
Remove wheel and place under car & or use jackstand etc
Spray / oil end of sway bar bolt, ball joint clinch bolt, and horizontal LCA bolt
Loosen & remove four fasteners, no particular order:
Sway bar end (9/16 wrenches or Sockets)
18mm Nut on ball joint clinch bolt, you may need a 15mm wrench socket to hold the bolt. Tap bolt out with drift
Horizontal Control Arm bolt 13/16" or 21mm (Nut is semi-captive)
15/16" socket on vertical bolt. This takes EXTREME torque to break free,
and considerable force to loosen.
I was deeply concerned the expenso Snap-On breaker bar would fail. I've NEVER loosened
anything this stuck before, never.

Use a crowbar to remove the ball joint from steering knuckle

The bushing fell out:

Note the notch for ball joint clinch bolt.
Now is the time to replace the boot if it's ripped
You can use anything to drive the sleeve out. This is part of a wheel bearing
Ford tool drives it out
Here's a socket to drive it in, you can use a piece of pipe, or the old sleeve:
And Ford tool.

Note the notch is pointing towards front, I could find no instruction anywhere, AND the the old ones where in different locations ...
(Make sure you install from correct side!!!

Grease up everything, and re-install. Use Permatex #3 if you want it to
come loose in the future, beats anti-seize, it'll never wash off.

Things that can go wrong:
1. Sleeves rust to bolts:
The car is sitting on the socket. The sleeve is so badly rusted that 1000 lbs wont push the sleeve up.
(see gap between bushing and frame)
2. Captive nuts break, see appendix, HAVE FUN!!!

I don't know how the vertical retainer's made in a PT.
I assume it's similar, and with corrosion it could be the same problem
Here's how it went in the Neon:
SUBJECT: Creak/Rattle From Front Foot Well
NO: 23-47-97
GROUP: Body
DATE: Sep. 26,1997:
MODELS: 1995- 1997 (PL) Neon
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Creak/rattle from driver or passenger front foot well. The creak/rattle is more pronounced overbumps.
DIAGNOSIS:
Drive the vehicle over a bumpy road and listen for a creak/rattle in the foot well area. If creak/rattle is heard proceed with the repair procedure on the side that the noise is heard. If the side the creak/rattle is coming from cannot be determined by sound, torque each Crossmember bolt to 163 Nm (120 ft Ibs). If the bolt was at 163Nm (120 ft.lbs), the torque is acceptable and no further action is needed on that side. If the torque was not at 163 Nm (120ft. Ibs), proceed to the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
AR(1) 05011650AA Crossmember Bolt/Nut Repair Kit (Right)
AR(1) 05011651AA Crossmember Bolt/Nut Repair Kit (Left)
Each kit will include one of the following components:
Cage Nut, Crossmember
Bolt, Crossmember
Mastic Patch
Drain Plug
Access Hole Template
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves drilling an access hole to replace the cross member bolt and cage nut,then sealing the access hole.

1. Raise vehicle to gain access to the cross member bolt.
2. Remove the cross member bolt.
3. Lower the vehicle and open the door.
4. Slide the seat to the full rearward position. Remove the floor mat if so equipped.
5. Remove the scuff plate and kick panel.
6. Pull the carpet and pad away to access the floor.
7. Prop the clutch and brake pedal to make room for drilling (drivers side only).
8. Insert the template, mark and center punch the floor pan (Figure 1).
9. Using a drill and 70mm (2 3/4 ") Dia hole saw, drill in the floor to access the cage nut.
10. Pry up on the cage surrounding the nut and slide the nut out. Insert the new nut and bend the cage back into position to secure the nut.
12. Raise the vehicle and install the new bolt, torque to 163 Nm (120 ft. Ibs.)
13. Lower the vehicle and vacuum all drill shavings.
14. Install the drain hole plug into the hole in the floor. Use a heat gun to seal the plug to the floor.
15. Center the mastic patch over the drain hole plug and install (Figure 2).

To install, remove backing paper and apply firm even pressure across the entire patch to seal.
16. Position pad and carpet into proper location.
17. Remove prop holding brake and clutch pedal if applied.
18. Install the scuff plate and kick panel.
19. Install floor mat and reposition seat.
20. Repeat procedure for other side if needed.
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

Mastic Patch --> is there any P# or place that sell it?
Drain Plug --> is there any P# or place that sell it?
Cage Nut for vertical bushing. I went to the dealer and they sold me a regular nut. will this work same way?

Mastic Patch --> is there any P# or place that sell it?
Drain Plug --> is there any P# or place that sell it?
Cage Nut for vertical bushing. I went to the dealer and they sold me a regular nut. will this work same way?

If your talking about black mastic,we used to use it on construction sites,and we always called it 'pookey'......The sell it at almost any hardware store;I'm not sure if it comes in any size smaller than 1 gallon can;We always bought it in 5 gallon buckets.