Bazar-e-Tabriz

Spend a day at one of the oldest bazaars of the Middle East in Tabriz, Iran

Marco Polo was here. Arab traveller Ibn Battuta was here. Even the Russians were here, till as recently as the last century. The Grand Bazaar of Tabriz in Iran is one of the oldest bazaars of the Middle East, and has been a key centre of trade and cultural exchange since ancient times. With its intricately spread alleys and grand arches, UNESCO inscribed Bazar-e-Tabriz as a World Heritage Site in 2010, both for its role in history, as well as the architectural expertise that went in designing its brick domes. Condé Nast Traveller gives a list of what to eat, buy and do at the bazaar.

Haji Ali’s Kebab shopThere are many shops selling plates of chelo kebab — tender charcoal-grilled meat with fragrant rice — in Tabriz, but Haji Ali is the most famed of the lot. The moustachioed owners personally welcome you into a warm little corner of the dimly lit bazaar. Soon you’ll have glasses of doogh, a yoghurt drink that is aerated at times, along with substantial portions of food. Eat your fill, and indulge in hearty conversations with local traders and shopkeepers.

Sit over a cup of chayWe found a kindly old man inside a shop who liked to hum long-forgotten Hindi film songs, and whose vocation was to mix interesting fragrances with tea imported from India. He let us sit on a warm rug, and brought out his kettle to meditatively pour some tea for us. A crystalline, treacle-sweet called shirini is a popular accompaniment with tea.

Buy a Tabrizi carpetIf anyone tries to sell you a full-length rug for less than Rs 1,51,737, it is most likely a fake! Rugs from this part of the world are known for their elaborate weaves and centuries-old designs. Locals take their own time in choosing one for a special occasion. Continue making small-talk with the owner over a cup of chay, and he is bound to relent to a much lower price.

Shop for handmade woollen articlesWe spotted thick, bright-coloured socks and mufflers, and motley homemade articles hanging from one of the shops. The woollen products are carefully woven with trendy designs and are a great addition to your travel souvenirs. Sometimes costing as little as Rs 202, the weaves held us good during the cold rides in the Iranian plateau.

Sample local sweetmeatsA clear Turkish connection, we found sumptuous trays of baghlava (Turkish baklava) sitting next to samovars of tea. The hard little rhomboids of phyllo pastry were packed with various nutty flavours, and were the perfect accompaniment to yet another dark little cup of chay.

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