IACV.. they seem to work forever.. I doubt that is the problem if you replaced it and have exactly the same symptoms..
also IACV will not do anything for a CEL light..

mine still stalls occasionally -
TPS, also is normally a red herring - they work or don't

my list of things to do..

Check all wires for tightness and corrosion
check battery cables for tightness - Bad grounds can do all sorts of havoc.
Check o2 sensors - make sure they are not loose or damaged (feel them if they ae beat up replace them)
check main MAF hose for leaks
check other Vac hoses for leaks - age will kill them and they can develop leaks/cracks

you may have a Vac leak - the brake booster can do this as well. Mine needs to be replaced at some point - but it only is an issue every once and while.

Also.. Check ignition amp module
cap and rotor (if your rotor does not come off with the smallest of force - stop!!! - if it looks ok then its probably ok. You generally have to cut them off to prevent damage to the distributor)

So hard to guess, but my #1 is a vacuum leak, not a sensor. Cracked hose is first guess. After that, plenum leak. What else at idle? Let's rule out IACV, so speed sensor? Not likely, but next on list. But really, IACV, VSS, MAF, all pretty solid. You can't just idle and spray with choke cleaner to find a vacuum leak...but I'd still start there.

How many miles? Slowly a worn cam can even cause it... But that's a lot of miles...

Check main MAF hose connection. Check the underside for hole that can develop from steering shaft bolt that is too long and rubs on the underside of the MAF hose. I put a tire stem cap on that bolt to keep it from rubbing on the MAF hose.

Check main MAF hose connection. Check the underside for hole that can develop from steering shaft bolt that is too long and rubs on the underside of the MAF hose. I put a tire stem cap on that bolt to keep it from rubbing on the MAF hose. Report back one you fix the problem

Those hoses rot out underneath ... Probably from moisture pooling at the lowest point. So even if it doesn't look rubbed it may be leaking. A smoke test is probably a good idea.

No it can't! A worn camshaf doent cause the CEL to come on. There is no sensor monitoring it!

I was referring to the idle/stall, not the CEL as per the original post. And yes, a worn cam can cause bad idle and stalling (and there are a host of other things that can as well). I see some posts mention code 45--but that wasn't from Greg so I don't know if that was just randomly thrown out there. Greg, did you ever check your code reader box in your footwell?

Isn't the Idle Air Control Valve what you just tried replacing? Or did I miss understand.

Sorry - I meant I will be checking Idle Air Bypass Port as per the recommendation of Overlander in post #11. Next it was suggested to check vacuum lines and ignition amp as per some nice PMs I received too.

Thanks for all the help thus far. I will report back as I chase it down so hopefully this string will help others in my predicament.

------ Follow up post added February 2nd, 2016 09:10 PM ------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davis

I was referring to the idle/stall, not the CEL as per the original post. And yes, a worn cam can cause bad idle and stalling (and there are a host of other things that can as well). I see some posts mention code 45--but that wasn't from Greg so I don't know if that was just randomly thrown out there. Greg, did you ever check your code reader box in your footwell?

Sadly I cant get to the code reader as the previous owner sealed all the electrics very nicely and completely in a plastic epoxy'd box. I will have to likely destroy the box to get to the code reader. Though, a small price to pay to fix the problem. Will report back ASAP. Thanks!

A few of the posts above alluded to the ignition circuit, but forgot to mention the distributor itself.

I started having the exact same problems as described by the OP above with the exact same engine. I ruled out vacuum leaks, intake manifold leak, MAF hose leak, etc. I have a brand new VSS, 2 new O2 sensors, and a new IACV. Cap, rotor, wires, coil, etc. all checked out ok.

If you haven't done so yet, check the distributor itself, mine turned out to be the problem all along. Water had gotten into it and had been sitting for a while with resulted in a corroded interior.

Changed that along with the amplifier, and it's now running like a top.

I replaced the cap and wires. I tried to remove the rotor but it would not come off. I found this common link from Rovers North about that issue: https://www.roversnorth.com/info/45

I opted to clean the rotor tip and leave it in place. I used some steel wool and that cleaned it up a bit. I am concerned though as some owner previous to me has silicone'd up the seal at the cap (pic 1 below). The previous post, #29 here references a bad distributor as a potential issue. That seems to be a pricey fix. Hopefully not to be....

Next, what I was hoping was the culprit, was a major split in the Plenum Air Hose (pic 2 below)

Im not sure if I cracked it or it was that way but after a lengthy search for the part(s) (OEM: ESR1316 or Substitute part PHH100290) neither of which can be located, I decided to tape it with silicone tape. Sadly, this has not improved the situation.

Greg: I have a source for a distributor and amplifier used for around $100. That's what I went with because the brand new parts are $$$, and because I want to eventually upgrade to an HEI setup. From the looks of your rotor and the silicone, I would say it's worth the expense to replace both parts and install a new cap and rotor as well.

Had similar issue in RRC, ran great at hwy speed, but as soon as the engine speed dropped, it would want to stall. Starting was gruesome also. I was on a 1200 mile trip across country, and it started the trip fine, then progressively fell further and further out of time until I was doing 60 MPH and it cut out and wouldn't purr back to life.

My suggestion #1: Check the timing. Throw a light on it and see what happens. I had an ignition module that had fallen out of time(Badly). Replaced dizzy, amp, coil, etc and set the timing. All better.

Hello - Small update and positive news. The stalling on stop issue seems to be resolved after I repaired the crack in the air tube from the MAF to the engine intake. The check engine light remains on and it is not running perfectly but it is improved. See pictures, I used silicon tape to repair.