Hobie is so busy right now I am not sure anyone there has time to transfer at this time. This is a good thing it means our sport is growing by leaps and bounds! Matt will get to it in due time he always some through on his word!

Is this the only way to drill these? I just got the EPO2 rudders, but I am really nervous about drilling them out wrong...Clarification, this drill template is to start the drill holes only. The final drill all the way through will be made on the boat? Also, is there a way to confirm the template prints in the right "scale"...Please help..and thanks..

Ideally, you should drill the holes using a drill press so you know for sure they're true. Put a block of wood under the rudder so you don't splinter on the underside and check to make sure you're using the correct drill speed.

I wouldn't try to drill them on the boat, too many opportunities for things to move around and it still won't guarantee you get the hole straight. If you don't have a drill press, clamp the rudder in a vice and carefully use your hand drill.

Confirm the template is to scale by printing it out and then verifying that the dimensions called out on the template are what they're supposed to be- i.e. measure the 6-3/8" dimension to see if it is actually 6-3/8". If it isn't, adjust the scaling of your print accordingly and re-check. You can also use your old rudder to check against the template if there's any concern there.

Last, remember that if you really screw up, you can always fill the holes with epoxy and re-drill...no big deal. You've also got the rake adjustment that will allow you to make minor corrections.

When I did this, I used the old rudder as the guide for the pivot hole, then the upper hole I used the locked down casting as the guide. I have done several hundred plastic rudders this way back in the days of working at a busy dealer, but this low tech method still works fine.

By the way, the rudders are a few seasons old now and show no signs of wear or failure other that one rudder tip I smashed in the parking lot. Even this ding show no sign of problems. These blades are really the way to go if you need/want new blades. As the wind builds, these blades just get better and better.

But is Jeremy will drill them for you, that is probably the way to go.

I have a set of yellow and black EPO2 rudders for a H16. Will they work with a H20 or should I get a set of EPO rudders specifically for a H20. The HCat catalog lists EPO rudders for a H20. Are they still available?

When I compare the stock H20 blades against the EPO H16 blades they are different. I measure that the EPO blades are about 1/16" thinner than the stock blade.

If I try and use the H16 blades it looks like I will have to put shims in the rudder castings? Thanks,

Phil Collins has won at least two H20 National Championships with EPOs, but then he's Phil, he'd probably have won anyway. I bought a pair of slightly used EPO2s on ebay that I'm sticking on my '20. I may be beyond being helped by a pair of EPO rudders but they look really cool! Nevertheless, I've heard from several H20 sailors that the EPOs are stiffer and will help you point a wee bit higher. Just by eyeballing them I can tell their design is a bit sleeker.

I am trying to use an old stock rudder as a template for drilling holes in my new EPO rudders. I need a jig to hold the two rudders in alignment but the profile of the H20 rudder is very different from that of the EPO rudder. Because the profiles are so different I don't see how a jig can hold the two in alignment. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks,

I have the Hotline with the article about drilling rudders. The article suggest building a jig to use an old rudder as a template for drilling a new EPO rudder. The profile of the H20 rudder is very different from that of the EPO rudder. Given these differences I don't see how to build the jig.

An unrelated question is about the tiller bar. How do I tighten the swivel fitting at the end of the bar? The part that rotates and connects to the cross bar has what seems like a lot of play in it.

Initially, I planned to use my standard H20 rudders as a template for drilling my new EPOs, but the rudders are so different I soon gave up on that plan. I used the paper template, like the one in one of your photos. I found that it's best to move the lower hole just a half of a hole's width forward of where the template would have you drill it. This will allow for a little more rudder rake. Once the bottom hole is located and drilled (recommend Matt's method of drilling 1/4 inch at first) hold the rudder where you want it as far as rake is concerned in the locked down position, then mark the spot for the upper hole using the upper casting. An extra set of hands will be a huge help. Almost impossible to do this solo. Good Luck!