Stain Removal Guide

It's a good idea to try to remove stains while they are fresh.
They become increasingly difficult to remove as they grow older.

Before you use any chemical on a colored fabric, test stain removal agent on a seam or hidden area
to make certain that the chemical will not remove the color or adversely affect the finish of the fabric. Before attempting to remove a stain, first determine whether the fabric is washable or not. The process to be used varies radically for each type. The procedures described do not apply to garments labeled dry-clean only. More General Tips

Dampen the area of the stain with water, sprinkle with table salt, rub in and then wash.
If persistent, add 3 drops of ammonia to solution. To bleach out, dampen and leave in
sun or swab with hydrogen peroxide and let sit overnight, then wash.

Alternative: Flush with water, then soak briefly in solution of meat tenderizer and cold water.

Remove blood stains from upholstery by covering the spot immediately with a paste of cornstarch and cold water. Rub lightly and place object in the sun to dry. The sun will draw the blood out into the cornstarch. Brush off.

Alternative: Place a paper towel or a rag under the stained area to absorb excess ink. Spray and saturate stain with a non-oily, alcohol based hair spray. Blot with a rag and repeat until the stain disappears.

Dyes

Fresh stains may respond to cold water.

Eggs

Scrape away as much as possible. Sponge with lukewarm water. Never use hot water, as heat hardens the stain. If this does not succeed, spread the stain with a paste of cream of tartar and water, adding a crushed aspirin to the paste. Leave for 30 minutes. Rinse well in warm water.

Swab with warm water. If persistent, sponge with cold water, rubbing in a few drops of vinegar. Allow to stand for 3 hours, rinse with water.

Glue

Dampen, then sponge with vinegar or 10 percent acetic acid, then rinse.

Grass Stain

Sponge with denatured alcohol, white vinegar, or benzene.

Alternative: Grass stains can be removed from clothing by pouring a little Karo syrup on the stain. Rub fabric lightly, toss it into the washing machine, and the grass stain should wash away.

Grasshopper

Apply oxalic acid solution; wash immediately.

Gravy

Saturate area with pretreatment laundry stain remover product containing enzymes. Wait for a minute and launder. If stain remains, use an aerosol pretreatment product or cleaning fluid. Wash with detergent in the hottest water safe for fabric.

Grease (food)

Swab with a little shampoo and then put it through the wash as usual.

Alternative: Soak in a solution of 3 parts detergent and 1 part ammonia. Lighter fluid usually works well, too. Then, wash thoroughly.

Alternative: Stains from ballpoint pens can sometimes be removed by sponging the area with milk until the stain disappears.

Iodine

If still wet, use soap and water; otherwise, use ammonia solution.

Alternative: Apply dry starch, moistened with cold water.

Also:
Iodine can be quickly removed with sodium thiosulfate, a product sold in photo supply stores as "acid fixer." However, if the photo supply fixer solution contains other chemicals in addition to sodium thiosulfate, it should not be used.

Sponge or swab with clear water. If persistent, immerse stain in chloroform or alcohol, brush off with soft cloth.

Lipstick

Soften by rubbing in Vaseline or lard.

Alternative: Sponge with equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and household ammonia. (Test on coloured fabrics first and do not use at all on acetate rayon). If colour fades, reduce ammonia by half and test again. Rinse in warm water, or wash if possible.

Machine Grease

Rub on a little lard to "float" the stain. Sponge with lighter fluid.

Mercurochrome

Use sodium thiosulfate crystals then rinse and launder.

Alternative: First,pretreat the stain with a heavy-duty liquid detergent, then rinse thoroughly. Soak the stained garment in a dilute solution of all-fabric powdered bleach.
If the stain persists, and the garment is white or colorfast, soak in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. Bleaching damage to colored garments is irreversible. If the stain is not removed in 15 minutes, it cannot be removed by bleaching and further bleaching will only weaken the fabric. Caution: Since bleaches can alter the color of a fabric as well as the stain, remembre to bleach the whole garment and not just one spot.

Mildew

If new, wash off, or apply oxalic acid and household bleach or liquid detergent and bleach. Wash in hot water with more detergent. Note: Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth, darkness, and moisture to survive. Mildew eats cellulosic fibers, causing permanent damage and weakening of fibers and fabrics.

Paint-latex: Treat while wet. Put stain down on pad, apply soft soap jelly on reverse side until some of the color is removed. Soak in cold water; wash in cool water with heavy-duty detergent. After paint has dried 6 to 8 hours, removal is very difficult. Wash in hot water, Rinse. Repeat treatment.

Paint-oil-based: Treat while wet. Use sponge method with turpentine, other thinner recommended for paint or alcohol on spots until paint is softened and can be flushed away in heavy-duty detergent wash.

Perspiration

Restore color by holding over open ammonia bottle. To remove odor, sponge with warm water and 1/2 teaspoon of vinegar. Then apply pepsin, allow to stand for ½ hour, then brush off.

Pine Pitch

Swab with acetone-based fingernail polish remover on a cotton ball, then rinse.
Note: Do not use nail polish remover (or acetone) on acetate fabrics, triacetate fabrics, or modacrylic fabrics as they will dissolve. Take these synthetic fabrics to professional dry cleaners and identify the stain.

NOTE: Nail polish also works really well for removing pine and other tree sap from car exteriors, paint, window glass and chrome. It quickly dissolves even very hardened sap without damage to the surface. Rinse the car's exterior well after removing the pine pitch or other tree sap.

Apply oxalic acid solution or lemon juice and salt. Place in the sun, if possible, and keep the fabric moist with lemon juice until the stain disappears. Commercial rust removers generally work well, but many contain hydrofluoric acid and are extremely toxic, can burn the skin, and can damage the finish on furniture and appliances.

Note: Do not use chlorine bleach on a rust stain. It can make the rust stain permanent.

Scorch

Some colored materials which have changed color, may regain their shade when cooled. Woolens and silks may respond to water. A cloth dipped in 3% peroxide and used as a press cloth can remove scorches. Household bleach can also be used on white fabrics.

Treat washable fabrics with a paste of powdered detergent and water.
Rub lightly between the hands, leave for half an hour, then wash or rinse in warm water.
On unwashable fabrics or for very stubborn marks, sponge with equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and household ammonia. (Test on coloured fabrics first). Then sponge with warm water.

Alternative: Apply denatured alcohol. If necessary, use lard as a "floater".

General Stain Removal Tips

Avoid rubbing the stained area with a linty terry towel or a dark-colored cloth. These may complicate the problem.

Avoid excessive rubbing unless fabric is tough and durable. Rubbing can spread the stain and damage the fiber, finish, or color.

Lemon juice can bleach some colors.

Inspect wet laundry for stains before drying. The heat of drying can make any stain more permanent.

Some chemicals are inflammable, have caused very serious accidents and should be handled with care. Many chemicals are poisonous. Highly inflammable chemicals should be used out of doors where possible, or in a room with windows opened. Chemicals should be applied sparingly with a light pressure or feathery stroke. Cloths used should be lint free. In general, use the chemical with the least strength that will do the job. Use the absorbent method on all material too heavy to soak.

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