Had a great day, After the customary Beckey route a few of us went up the north face then traversed right at the top of the first pitch and plumb lined up to the cave, fun easy climbing. Great spot, only got rained(or snowed) on 5 outta 6 days, keeps the bugs away!

I believe on the second pitch we kept going left where the route heads to the right. This pitch ended up using pretty much the entire 60m rope, So the third pitch was only about 10ft. There was a tough move to make, but we were able to get a couple of pieces in. Very fun, but short climb.

I found the description of the Cave route scarier than the actual climbing. Beckey describes it as 5.8+ with poor pro. I fouond that the rating was accurate, but the crux move protected well with a #3.5 or #4 camalot. The second pitch was an enjoyable 5.7 on OK rock to the cave. The final two pitches are low fifth class and can be simo climbed. I would recommend the climb if you are comfortable at the grade climbing trad.

Cave Route - 8/27/05 - With Bala, did not like it. Bad rock and some bad climbing. Easily doable in 3 pitches with a walk through the cave. Atleast the views were nice. :-)

South Face - 6/20/04 - We climbed a variation to the left of the south face east side on Concord. The start of the route had nasty rock with veritcal kitty litter in some spots, and expanding flakes which gave no protection. After about 40 feet the rock improved, and offered some fun climbing up to about 5.4. I moved left up a dihedral slab with a finger crack for pro. This section was about 5.6 or 5.7. After that I climbed an interesting but short 5" offwidth that was atleast 5.7. I didn't bring my large cam, so I had to solo through this section. The next pitch I lead off on 4th class accross the summit ridge. The third pitch was really nice, and consisted of ridgeline traversing on a sharp low 5th class arete with no pro, and plenty of exposure. I dropped in a couple pieces, then did the bouldery 5.6 summit block, before belaying Lee up. We rappeled the summit block then traversed the sharp arete again, before rappeling down.

North Face variation - 7/20/03 - Matt and I climbed a 5.7 variation to the standard North Face route. It took 3 pitches plus a 15 foot unprotectable 5.6 climb to reach the small summit block. The crack system we used was very sustained 5.6 to 5.7 climbing with possibly a 5.8 move. Matt led the easier, short first pitch to the flat area. The second pitch had lots of awkward moves, but protected well. The lieback crack on the third pitch was quite interesting. I lead the second pitch and the summit block climb, which was interesting with no pro. We got our rope caught up a bit on the rappel, but managed to get it figured out. I sprained my ankle on the descent out from the notch.

Rain first chased us from Triumph and then from WA Pass and we ended up doing some uninspiring climbs at Mazama. Midday Jim and I were so bored and decided to try WA Pass again and salvage the day. Got to the notch at 5pm and started climbing, on the second pitch went right and ended up in some wet mossy crack which gave me much grief, but it lead into a very nice 3rd pitch and soon after we were on the summit, nice tower, love this place. Got back as it was getting dark, having dinner at the view point was great.

A bit unhappy that we had driven 7 hours only to end up in the rain, Haydar and I spent a few hours in Mazama climbing some single-pitch bolted routes. But by mid-day we were bored and the rain had cleared so we headed back up to the pass and hiked to the LB-Concord col. We took a "variation" on the second pitch, to the right of the actual route, which was mossy and dirty. The third pitch, though, was fantastic, and met up with the real route just under the summit block. Snapped a few pictures and got back to the car just as it was getting dark.