Vortech Supercharger Install - 5th-Gen Thumper

Making Big Power With A Vortech Supercharger

The fifth-gen Camaro has really made a name for itself, and lately we're starting to see them everywhere. While some folks are completely satisfied with a set of louder pipes and a more aggressive stance with a set of aftermarket springs; some enthusiasts command more from their performance vehicles. Instead, they want to take their rides to the next level by pumping out big horsepower numbers.

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Bone stock, the SS comes with enough oats to tickle the 12-second zone with its factory rated 426hp LS3. If that isn't enough, the easiest way to bolt on a significant amount of power is to invest in a supercharger system. We say invest because understandably you can expect to shell out another $7,000 above the factory sticker and a little bit more if you need to farm out the install. Even so, it's hard to argue the bang for the buck when it comes to dollar per horsepower figures.

Not long ago we took a quick trip to Vortech Engineering in Channel Island, California, where engineer Russell Davis took us through a complete install in a fresh 2010 Camaro with the six-speed automatic transmission. At the time, this was one of the first installations into the modern-era fifth-gen; while everything shown here is what to expect, there are very subtle differences from the final production systems that are available today. The biggest difference being each system now comes with a programmer to accommodate the supercharger.

And when it came to the chassis dyno figures-they were fun to witness, but it was having the opportunity to take the end product for a spin that ingrained an everlasting impression. Saying the drive was fun is putting it lightly; the power on tap is more than enough to make the heavyweight feel nimble in every gear, and those aggressive off-the-line launches will put a grin on your face every time you stab the loud pedal. We should mention that this was Vortech's entry-level package that produces between 6.5 and 7.5 psi of boost with the V-3 Si-trim supercharger. If this isn't enough, they also offer this system with their V-7 YSi-trim head unit that's good for 1,200 hp-yes, a reinforced bottom-end is required. Beyond that, we'll leave you with one word of caution: hold on and don't turn off the traction control unless you know what you're doing.

What is it
Complete supercharger system for the 2010 Camaro

Final Thoughts
Definitely a must have item

Cost (APPROX)
$6,951 for a complete V-3 Si-trim system with a Charge Cooler, $7,251 for a polished head unit

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Vortech Supercharger Install - 5th-Gen Thumper

To begin the install, the factory intake system and serpentine belt was removed.

Next, you'll need to remove the alternator bolt with a 17mm socket. In its place goes a supplied bolt that's longer and comes with a sleeve that's required to clear the factory six-rib serpentine belt.

From here we removed the power steering pump and its bracket by taking out the three bolts with a 13mm socket.

In order to make room for the supercharger, the radiator hoses and power terminal need to be relocated. Again, the Vortech kit comes with all the hoses and fittings to make the necessary changes. At this time, the factory damper was replaced with the supplied steel SFI-approved replacement damper from ATI Performance Products.

With the power steering pump pushed out of the way, we could then install the supercharger head plate. To secure it into place, four bolts were tightened onto the cylinder head with a 13mm socket. Be sure to use the supplied washers.

To remount the power steering pump, you can toss out the factory cast mount. In its place is another bracket specifically designed by Vortech for this application.

With the brackets in place, we went ahead and remounted the power steering pump and its reservoir using the three original factory bolts.

This is where it gets a little tricky and an extra pair of hands can come in handy. To install the supercharger plate, it takes five 3/8-inch bolts, six spacers, and three long bolts to help guide the spacers. The spacers are used as extra mounting points for additional rigidity. Just remember flex is bad and it's what can cause potential belt issues, which isn't a problem with this well thought out design.

At this point, you can go ahead and reinstall the factory belt.

Installing the head unit is next. Simply lower the supercharger and use the three supplied 3/8-inch bolts to hold the blower in place.
supercharger

To mount the front plate with the tensioner, start by placing the two lower bolts with the spacer. Since you have to come in at an angle and won't be able to do it later, it's important to do this in this order.

There are eight spacers that are placed in between the front and rear plate. Note: use a longer bolt to locate the spacers into place.

Be sure to use extra caution when installing these two spacers (arrows).

Bolt placement is crucial; you'll notice that two bolts in particular are called thin heads that are used to clear the belt. Two bolts go into the gearbox cover without the use of washers and the remaining bolts secure the front plate.

To install the idler, all you need to do is find the locating pin behind it and match it up to the plate. After it's in place, use a 17mm socket to lock it down.

Next, install the supercharger belt by first wrapping it around the damper and then placing the belt over the supercharger pulley.

With everything in place, go ahead and add the second idler and use a 17mm socket to tighten it into place.

The Vortech kit comes with 65lb injectors. In order to swap the factory pieces for these, just remove the fuel rail and swap out the new for the old. Another trick component included with the kit is the harness adapter. This harness plugs directly into the new injectors and then connects into the factory fuel injector harness-that's all you have to do and your fueling needs are handled.

In order to install the air-to-air intercooler, the front fascia needs to be removed. If you're doing this at home, don't let it scare you. It doesn't take long to remove, but there are a few steps you need to follow. First, there's a total of six push-pin retainers on the upper support that need to come out.

With the front wheels turned, there are two more push-pin retainers, including five 10mm bolts, three 220 torx bolts, and one 7mm bolt that need to be removed from both sides of the fascia.

Lastly, remove the two remaining 10mm bolts underneath the nose.

Before removing the fascia completely, you'll need to reach behind and unplug the single electrical wiring connector that operates the entire lighting system.

Ultimately, this is how you want the intercooler to rest. There are three 13mm bolts on each side of the bumper reinforcement that need to be removed first. Once out, you can rest the intercooler on the front framerail, however once the pipes are connected, it will locate and center itself properly. The supplied intercooler is good for up to 900 rwhp; should you opt for the YSi down the road, Vortech also offers a larger intercooler as an additional option.

On The Rollers
Baseline numbers showed 335 hp at 6,000 rpm with 337 lb-ft at 4,430 rpm. Post results revealed a gain of 169 hp and 109 lb-ft with 504 hp at 6,050 rpm and 446 lb-ft at 5,480 rpm.

The bypass is included with the kit and purges the excess air into the atmosphere when lifting off the throttle. The only work required is to tie in the vacuum line onto the brake booster.

The only other modification required is relocating the factory ambient air temperature sensor. All you have to do is drill a hole into the plastic adjacent to the original mounting area and press in it.

Moving back up top, it's just a matter of installing the MAF sensor into the supplied air inlet pipe and reinstalling the factory engine cover. Note: the engine cover will need to be trimmed slightly to clear the blower housing.