Found: The Anatomy of a Burberry Trench Coat

This April and May I’m sewing along with Sherry at Pattern~Scissors~Cloth. A bunch of other talented seamsters and I are all making coats following the construction methods used in ready-to-wear tailoring. Mine is a Burberry-inspired trench coat, and here’s a reflection on my efforts to sew well.

I drafted the collar for my Burberry-inspired trench coat early in the process of this Sew-Along. I used Sherry’s tutorial and my own best guess as to the height and width the two collar pieces needed to be. I intended to cut the underside of the collar from the Burberry rainwear that I used for the lining, but in all of the cutting, I forgot and just cut two of the exact same top collar pieces from the camel gabardine. I figured it was what was meant to be.

The collar stand and under collar are both made of two pieces and both look to be much wider and taller than the pieces I drafted.

The underside of the collar is cut from the Burberry print on the bias, matching my original intentions.

The under collar is stabilized by parallel rows of stitching.

The buttons are stabilized on the reverse side by small plastic buttons.

The buttonholes are done with a machine and are not bound buttonholes.

The sleeves are three-piece raglan, not the one piece like my pattern.

The sleeves are not lined with Burberry fabric, instead they’re lined with satin twill.

The lining is bagged, which is what I intend to do… soon.

I wish I’d known the details of the collar before I’d started the drafting process, but I’m very happy with the coat that I’ve made so far. As I said, I figure what I’ve made is what was meant to be. But, I’ll definitely save away these tidbits of information for future coats.

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Published by Amy

Amy started the blog Sew Well in 2011 to reflect on her journey to learn how to sew well. She is a scientist by training, and she also enjoys running and renovating her 100+ year old home with her husband and daughters in Seattle, WA.
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Hello! I’m Amy.

Welcome! Join me as I learn how to sew well while taking time to reflect on the process.

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