But a recent taste test by The Washington Post had some surprising results. Tasters sampled 10 kinds of salmon, from wild king from Willapa Bay, Wash. to frozen, farmed Atlantic sold by Costco. The foodies then crowned an unlikely, $6-a-pound champ.

“Farmed salmon beat wild salmon, hands down,” The Post wrote. “The overall winner was the Costco frozen Atlantic salmon (Norwegian), added to the tasting late in the game – to provide a counterpoint to all that lovely fresh fish, we thought.”

So how did Willapa Bay’s wild, netted king salmon fare? It ranked No. 6 for best-tasting, below most of the farmed samples.

Of course, you might be paying up to $20 a pound for wild-caught Pacific salmon for other reasons (i.e. sustainability). Here’s the low opinion of farmed salmon by Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch.