Description

The first pitch is perhaps the most fun .10+/.11- on the Front Side. The second pitch is 5.9. The last is "one of the wildest pitches at Hueco Tanks", 5.11r. (Sherman, Head, Crump, Head, 1991)

Pitch one starts in an open, grassy, area below the oak tree and cave ledge of Tree Crack. Follow six bolts up right on clean gray rock and along a bolted right leaning crack. After connecting with Deliverance, #2 and #3 Camalots are nice for protecting the 5.9 crack to the belay bolts. It is a 25 meter rappel off from here. (Now your set to top rope Deliverance)

Pitch two starts with a 5.8/5.9 step right onto a black rib. 50 feet up to the belay bolts. Small stoppers are useful on this pitch. (Paul Piana, 1992)

Pitch three climbs the overhung buttress right of Indecent Exposure. Move right off the ledge, then up to the first of two bolts. Move right to the second bolt and a rest. Next move up to a bulge and pass it on the left. After the bulge, climb straight up easier rock to the summit.

Location

Walk the road past the Mushroom Boulder restrooms and take the trail into the Deliverance Boulders. Then follow the cliff left (north), high-stepping up some easy talus. Before reaching the Tree Crack/Indecent Exposure belay zone, spot a line of bolts in gray rock that angle up right.

Protection

In addition to the #2 and #3 Camalots for the end of pitch one, my notes tell me to bring a .75 Camalot and steel nuts too.

I agree with the description - the first pitch is super-fun and varied. My favorite at Hueco and as good a pitch as you'll find anywhere. It's full value - I thought the crux move was 5.11b/c. The rack I used is a few draws, a 0.4 deep in the undercling/pocked to protect the traverse to the finishing handcrack, and a #1 and #2 for the crack itself. There is a fixed nut high on the route. You can rap to the ground with a 60m.