[color=#BF0000]Disclaimer: [/color]This is by no mean 100% accurated due to the fact that each preheater/hot air station is a tad bit different. This guide is intended for educational purposes. This guide will be used as a starting point for those of you interested in doing rework/reballing. Keep in mind that each state/country has a different temp and humidity rating that can/must be factored into the reball/rework process. [b]PICTURES TO COME LATER[/b]THERE WILL BE A FEW THINGS LEFT OUT FOR NOW THAT I WILL ADD LATERI AM DOING THIS GUIDE IN A HURRY AS I AM AT WORK.YOU WILL NOTICE THAT THE CLEANUP PROCESS ISNT INCLUDED YETThere are a few other issues as the trained eye can see,but bare with me.I will get it sorted out soon.This guide is similiar to the guide that used to be on the site. I simply tweaked it a bit. Its not perfect,but its a start.

[color=#BF0000]Flux[/color]: A good flux is absolutely neccesary when it comes down to reball/reworking.Insat RMA liquid super flux for detachAmtech 4300 for chip attach and cleaning up old solder on the chip and board.A good flux will be visible at the end of the reflow/reball procedure so if it just burns off really quick then you know its not good flux and most likely has been watered down with ipa(isopropyl alcohol)Flux can be highly corrosive so it is highly important that the bga(ball grid array) is cleaned properly. Using 99% IPA or MEK(Mehtyl Ethyl Ketone) to clean the board area/cpu/gpu and for flushing under the chip after the reattach.After doing do you can used compressed are to get the residue out from under the chip([color=#0000FF]80 degrees celsius is a good temp to clean off residue[/color])

[color=#BF0000]The Necessity of Board Jigs[/color]Board jigs sometimes come with your setup depending on the system you purchase,however this is not likely. So it is reccomended that you purchase a good jig for this type of work.A jig is used to secure the motherboard so it doesnt warp during the heat up/cool down process.[color=#FF0000](There are two jigs for the 360 consoles)[/color] One for the Phat and one for the Slim For the Ps3 there are several different board revisions for the phat and slims.[color=#0040BF]Avoid Chinese aluminum jigs because they warp very quickly and can damage the board your working on.Laser cut mild steel is the way to go[/color].

[color=#FF0000]TC Positioning[/color]Omega TC (thinest version)Can be used on the top and bottom of the board to monitor temperatures.The thermocoupler can be positioned next to the chip that your going to be reflowing/reballing.The thermocoupler does not need to be directly on the chip as this can cause your TC to become damaged.The bottom thermocoupler can be positioned on the bottom of the board near the bottom of the chip that your going to be reflowing/reballing.Kapton tape is suggested for keeping the thermocouplers in place.

[color=#0000BF]This guide will be explained in two stages[/color][color=#BF0000]One for room temperature to the 200 Celsius stageThe other for the 200-225 Celsius stage[/color]

PREHEAT AND REFLOW STAGE 1

1. Turn the preheater on to 180 Celsius and leave it until the top side TC temp reaches 180C then hold the temp there for 2 minutes.

2. Turn your Aoyue onto 90C at this point and hold for 1 minute

3. Turn your Aoyue up to 150C and hold for 1 minute

4. Turn your Aoyue up to 201C and hold for 1 minute

5. Turn Aoyue up to 250C and hold for 1 minute (May or may not be required, if you hit 200C before this step you can disregard Step 5 entirely)

[color=#BF0000]KEEP IN MIND[/color]

The top side thermocouple temp is the one that you want to keep an eye on and if necessary your preheater may need to be set to a different temp to hit 180C on your TC.Every machine is slightly different so make sure to keep an eye on that top TC temp as it will be important in every stage of the processAlso be aware that you may see a drop in temps when you first apply the top heat from the ayoue.This is normal and is only happening because the Ayoue is blowing cool air when it first turns on.You can bypass the 90C stage is your worried to much about it,but it is a good idea to allow the nozzle to heat up evenly by building up to the proper temp.

[color=#FF0000]A Brief Summary Thus Far:[/color]

Always keep your eyes on the topside TCUp to 180C should be done by the preheater aloneFrom 180C to 200C increase is handled by the Aoyue so keep increasing the top heat from your Aoyue by 50C every minute until the topside reaches 200C.Again this will vary from machine to machine.

At 200C step the temp on your Aoyue up 3C every second until the topside reaches 217C then start a 20 second countdown.

After the 20 second countdown keep increasing by 3C every second until topside reaches 225C and hold it for another 20 seconds.While your waiting out the 20 seconds you can use a small wooden dowel or long tooth pick to gently nudge the chip on one corner.If you see movement then you know that the solder balls have liquified and that its a good reflow on the chip.Dont worry the surface tension of the chip will keep everything in place,just dont get to rough while nudging it.Keep in mind your only looking for a slight movement of a half milimeter at most.[color=#0000FF]NOTE* If you are having issues with the chip not budging you can up the temp to 230 to allow for a clean lift[/color][b]If your going to be doing a reball on this chip.Now would be a good time to lift the chip off the board using a suction pen.[/b][b]THATS ONLY IF YOUR PLANNING ON REBALLING THE CHIP[/b]

After the 20 second countdown drop the Aoyue temp to 201C and hold for 2 minutes

(Afte 2 minutes) Raise the Aoyue nozzle to a half inch

Switch the Aoyue off and the temp will start to decreaseonce the station is cool enough it will shut down

Switch the black switch off on your preheater and it will begin to cool downAt 65C switch the preheates main power off

[color=#FF0000]FINISHING UP[/color]

1.Leave the board alone until topside temp reaches 45C2.Remove the board and allow it cool for 5 more minutes after which you can examine the board for warpage. If all looks good then CONGRATS!

[color=#FF0000]RE-SEATING THE CHIP STAGE 1[/color]

1.Turn the preheater on to 170C and leave it until top TC temps reach 170C then hold for 2 minutes.

2. Turn the Aoyue on to 90C at this point and hold for 1 minute

3. Turn Aoyue up to 150C and hold for 1 minute

4.Turn Aoyue up to 201C and hold for 1 minute

5.Turn Aoyue up toe 250C and hold for 1 minute

[color=#FF0000]RESEATING THE CHIP STAGE 2[/color]

1.Always keep your eye on the topside TC and keep increasing by 50C every minute until the topside temp reaches 185C

2.At this point step the Aoyue temp up 3C every second until the topside reaches 197C then start a 20 second countdown

3.Keep increasing by 3C every second until the topside temp reaches 205C and hold it for 20 seconds

4. After the 20 seconds countdown dtop the Aoyue temp down to 190C and hold for 2 minutes

5. Raise the Aoyue nozzle up a half an inch

6. Switch the Aoyue off and once the machine reaches 90C it will turn off

7.Switch the black switch on the preheater off. The preheater will start cooling down.

8. At 65C switch the preheater main power switch off

[color=#FF0000]FINISHING UP[/color]

1. Leave the board alone until the topside temp is 45C

2. Remove the board and allow it to cool for 5 minutes and then exam the board for warpage.

[color=#FF0000][b]Final Notes[/b][/color]

Never take the temps you set on your machine as 100% when your setting up your machineAll machines will differ depending on the evironment,airflow level,gap between the chip and nozzle. Evironmental factors such as draughts and room temperatures will factor into what you actually see at the boards TC.Testing and practice makes perfect!!

I put this guide together from some of the info I had from the old thread that was here and some from memory...oww my head hurts.