Messages - GhostCat

Yes Betty the 3rd runway would increase all traffic by 50% but corporations can profit from that ! And kerosene is still untaxed ! And unfortunately what passes for s consultation is more like a warning - they completely ignore all feedback and public opinion, all about the ££

We are consulting on the next stage of the Mayor, Sadiq Khan’s plan to help tackle London’s toxic air pollution, which contributes to thousands of early deaths in our city each year.

To have your say visit tfl.gov.uk/airquality-consultation

From 8 April 2019, the Mayor is introducing the Ultra Low Emission Zone in central London, replacing the T-Charge with an even tighter emission standards for diesel vehicles.

To help further reduce toxic emissions in London, the Mayor is also now proposing to: • Extend these tighter emissions standards to the whole of London for lorries, buses and other heavy goods vehicles only in 2020 • Expand the ULEZ for all vehicles including cars, vans, motorbikes and minibuses up to the North and South circular roads in 2021

Thanks chaps ! Both great bikes I wouldn't have otherwise considered ! The FZ6 doesn't seem to well liked by the reviewers tho and is quite fugly (I know, pot calling the kettle black) the CBF though... cheap ! Same HP as the FZS and worse mpg, but a definite contender !

[size=78%]I've had my Fazer for a year - first big bike.. and absolutely love it. Comfortable, reliable, low maintenance, powerful, easy on petrol. But the London Mayor has proposed that, being a pre 2007 (not a Euro-3 bike) it will be subject to Congestion charge and ULEZ charge from next year. So I have been looking around to replace it, but I can't find anything post 2007 that is nearly as good ! MPG drops from 50's to 40's, and power drops even in an 800 like the Fazer 8. Also looking at the Honda CBF600S, the Fazer 8, Suzuki GSF1250SA, and the FZ1.[/size][/size] Anyone made the jump and fancy sharing their thoughts ?[size=78%]

This morning I waited for the carbs to fill.. ran for 3 secs then stalled. Ignition off. Ignition on again, the pump ran for another 5-6 secs as if the carbs were empty. Not sure if that's normal. I feel the battery is on it's way out but there's something else going on going to lift the tank up and see what's going on, but at the mo leaving and arriving home in the pitch black !

Hi my 2001 5DM Fazer is being a PITA on cold mornings.. starts for a second, then dies and won't start again until the battery is virtually flat. I can hear the pump clicking away. Maybe not giving it enough time to prime itself or something ? Once it goes it's fine.. normally starts on the button without choke - any pointers ?

Hi I met up with a friend who has the exact same bike as me and I was amazed at how much smoother and quieter his engine was, I don't know what to do to mine to make it sound so good. Mine "chugs" a bit on tickover and there is a rattle coming from below the camshaft. The thing is, mines only done 10,000 miles and his has done over 40k. I know my carb rubbers were replaced last year. Regular oil changes etc. Standard exhaust (he has aftermarket sports)Sorry if this seems a dumb question, hoping someone has had the same problem.

Hi TerjeWell Ive seen a few streetfighter type mods that frankly look terrible, trying to figure out why this one looks so damn good ? Could you post up a couple more pics of the front end ? And give us some details of the instruments & headlight please ?

If you spray that primer on old paint, it dissolves and puckers up off the metal. Try it yourself on a small area. I would be inclined to just do your deoxidising and spray the PJ1 - its designed to be used without primer.I hope I wont need the engine out any time soon... happy to live with it at the moment.

A word of warning, if you are going to use that acid etch primer, it requires that every last scrap of black paint is removed, which is really an engine out job. Mine looks a bit like a dogs dinner now. all the other bits are done, water pipes, headers, snapped the bottom radiator bolt off trying to remove the rad, so back to the shop for drilling ! And waiting on the correct exhaust stud to arrive, they sent an M10 !

Heres the link http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,181.0.htmlI have some spare flag connectors to connect up the dipped bulb in the right hand headlight - but easier to just buy an H4 connector as per the last post in that thread

My local mechanic got the stud out. He said "lots of heat". Cost me an hours labour. Let the refurb begin !Next question - is draining the coolant a pain as I need to refurb a couple of the coolant pipes

Well the inevitable happened. After 6 days of religious and thorough plus gassing I took the plunge and snapped a stud on the second from left cylinder - the top stud. Its snapped off flush with the nut so praying that some purchase can be got on the stud. its an awkward spot but i got a socket spanner on it. I stopped trying there ! hope you dont think i was ignoring your advice but i would rather sort it out now then when an mot is looming i have alternative transport at least. booked into my local mechanics next week

Hihaving just done the mod with the help of these instruction hoping it cant hurt to add my 2p worth you can learn from my mistakes !

Johns original instructions refer to a Fastin-Faston 8mm right angle connector. Having spent a while searching for the right part I figured out there is actually no such thing which is why everyone had trouble finding them ! They are 7.8mm AMP Fastin Flag Terminals. But there are plenty of them on Ebay, just need to search for "H4 connector" I bought a Durite one which had the correct terminals in brass and the terminals in the correct orientation.

Also, to open up the old connector, you just need to push a flat screwdriver into the central hole between the 3 pins to push the flap open.

If you look at the terminals, you see the small tab which holds the connector in the block. If you want to use your new block you get the old ones out by inserting a thin strong object to push the spring tab back so you can withdraw it from the back.

Here is the power end that plugs straight in to the connector that has a green wire going in one side and no corresponding connection on the other side of the block, that is in the junction box under the fuel tank. It is a 2.8mm crimp terminal. I crimped it, then soldered it for good measure. No need to cut any of your existing connections. The fuse can be removed for MOT's if required. I searched on ebay for "2.8mm terminal latch" - the ones you need have the small locking tab poking out of the bottom to click them in place.

Thanks for the tips chaps, but the collector part is looking pretty ropy and I am looking to fit stainless headers when funds allow, so I need to sort out the nuts/studs anyway. Thing about the Yamaha nuts is, they are rusty as hell so they must be made out of recycled Austin Allegroes

Histill got the original headers on my 2000 Fazer, I have got some exhaust paint and I've started plus gassing the nuts. Just wondering whether I should get new gaskets, and if so what type, copper or fibre ? Also could I replace the nuts with stainless, and if so where would I get the correct spec nuts. M6 stainless.. flanged ? Connector nuts ?