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New to this and Beemers, love my bike, trying to figure out gas mileage, currently looks like I'm getting 14 miles per gal. based on specs should be getting 35-40mpg, after topping off tank set odometer and got 66 miles before the green reserve light came on, should have gotten 166 miles before reserve light came on, any ideas?

Any independent mechanics in the area of Asheville,NC, gurus out there?

I have a 1995 R1100RS (similar engine) that routinely gets about 43 mpg during "highway" riding (on premium gasoline). Your bike is obviously running WAY too rich. You did not provide any info about the bike (such as mileage, last throttle body sync, last valve adjustment, last spark plug change, any engine running issues), so a little hard to analyze.

The first thing I would do is inspect your spark plugs to see if they show signs of too rich mixture (i.e., are the insulators and electrodes black). If so, then you've probably identified the problem area. Since your bike is fuel-injected with lots of sensors that affect fuel mixture, these will need to be checked to find the fault(s). A good dealer should be able to plug the bike into the BMW computer and quickly identify the fault(s). Depending on the fault(s), the actual repairs may be something you can do yourself.

Third owner, Had its 24,000 check up ,needs 34,000. check up, previous owner put 2,000 miles on it, but bottom line,
it needs to go in and get hooked up to the computer , I know motors had all Jap bikes in the past and none fuel injected. Pulling the plugs I read I need a special boot wrench, is that true
or can I use a needle noose, The bike has a Remus exhaust, nothing black coming out or coating exit holes, no leaks.

It makes a popping sound when I get off the throttle, sounds cool, thought that could have been bad gas, Always put premium in now going to BP or Exxon.

Who knows what the air filter looks like, following your advice, thanks.

What does your dealer in TX charge for an hourly rate, whats fair?

The bike is a beast, I tend to run out of road here in the mtns. But feel I've got great excelleration, cant imagine what if it was tuned, OMG.

Third owner, Had its 24,000 check up ,needs 34,000. check up, previous owner put 2,000 miles on it, but bottom line,
it needs to go in and get hooked up to the computer , I know motors had all Jap bikes in the past and none fuel injected. Pulling the plugs I read I need a special boot wrench, is that true
or can I use a needle noose, The bike has a Remus exhaust, nothing black coming out or coating exit holes, no leaks.

It makes a popping sound when I get off the throttle, sounds cool, thought that could have been bad gas, Always put premium in now going to BP or Exxon.

Who knows what the air filter looks like, following your advice, thanks.

What does your dealer in TX charge for an hourly rate, whats fair?

The bike is a beast, I tend to run out of road here in the mtns. But feel I've got great excelleration, cant imagine what if it was tuned, OMG.

The R1100S is a fine motorcycle. I had one on an Alps tour a few years ago, and it was a great bike for carving the mountain passes. If I did not have my Ducati 916 I would probably have an R1100S instead of my R1100RS.

The bike does not need an excessive amount of maintenance, and the good news that almost all of it can be done by a reasonably competent DIYer at home. Valve adjustments are especially easy compared to a Japanese inline four or a Ducati V-twin. There are a few special tools that make the work easier (e.g., oil filter wrench), but most the tools needed are either in the BMW tool kit (if complete) or in the tool set that most DIYers should already have.

But, you do need to make sure that the recommended maintenance has been done, and if you do not have documentation that all the maintenance is up to date, especially on a bike with 34,000 miles, then the first thing to do is bring the maintenance up to date so that you will know FOR SURE. The owner's manual lists the required maintenance, so it's pretty easy to make yourself a maintenance chart and then follow it. A quick check of the forums will indicate additional recommended maintenance that is not specified in the owner's manual (e.g., spline lubrication).

I'm not sure what my local BMW dealers charge for shop labor. I do almost everything myself at home. I doubt that your dealer is charging an hourly rate that is out of line with your area. Your dealer will have (or should have) some special BMW computer diagnostic tools that you cannot afford to buy for home. One hour at the dealer for this analysis will tell you what faults you have, if any.

The popping sound on closed throttle (or almost closed throttle) deceleration is common, although if it is excessive it can indicate the need for a throttle body sync.

There should be a little black plastic tool in your BMW tool kit that is used to pull the spark plug boot. If you do not have this tool, instead of trying to use metal pliers I would just get a replacement tool from the dealer. It makes removing the spark plug boot a simple job and avoids the risk of damaging the rubber boot. The BMW tool kit also should have a spark plug removal tool, but I would get a spark plug socket (it will need to be small diameter to fit down into the hole in the cylinder head) so that you can torque the spark plugs properly with a torque wrench.

Use high quality premium gasoline from a major brand oil company and from a clean, new-looking station. That's my personal opinion. Some feel all gasoline and stations are the same, so just pump the cheapest gas you can find, but that's not what I do. The fuel filter is inside the gas tank, and one tank of fuel with water or other contaminants can stop you dead if the filter clogs.

So much great info, will look through the tool kit, alway agree to use a real socket, going to get some compressed air and blow out the area before removing the plug, I dream for a garage, had the bike in the living room as art, had to pet it everyday . Condo ass. found out and its outside under a cover, hurts.

Talked to the previous owner today, all he did was change the oil and battery to a dry one, I asked about the airfilter, weird he didnt change it or see if it was a K&N, good guy , he's got a Ducati, 1200BMW, and a Triumph, jealous.

On a blog found out BMW stands for buy more wrenches, true ,true.

My dropped off the BMW in Charlotte, 1,300 and two weeks later, seems anything from a dealer is a minimum of a grand.

Calling a dealer Monday and will find out how to proceed with the computer check.

Again, if you do not have documentation that all required maintenance and service is up to date, then the FIRST THING to do is perform the required maintenance (engine oil and filter change, transmission and rear drive oil change, brake fluid change and bleed, air filter, fuel filter, alternator belt check/replace, valve check/adjustment, idle adjustment and throttle body sync). Either do it yourself (to save money and ensure that it is done correctly) or have a dealer, independent shop, or knowledgeable friend do it BEFORE you take it to the dealer to hook up to the computer. No sense paying for dealer shop time if your problem is a bad spark plug or a black air filter.

If you do not already have one, buy a good workshop manual for your bike (Clymer or Haynes - I have both for my R1100RS).

Frankly, I would stay with BMW parts for things such as air filters and oil filters. No K&N air filters. BMW does not use crap OEM suppliers.

For routine maintenance, BMW motorcycles (at the least the R1100S) do not need a lot of "more wrenches".

Everything from the dealer does NOT cost a grand. What did the Charlotte dealer do for $1,300? That sounds like it should have bought a lot of routine maintenance.

Good luck with your garage dream. No motorcycle, including BMW, likes to be stored outside, and working on a motorcycle is much easier under cover.

Seems if you are enjoying the acceleration more than most, playing on the twisties, you cannot expect 40+ mpg, which is about what I see on my 5-spd R100RS, but that is largely highway, constant speed cruise.

My Smart car taught me that low RPM is what saves gas, and DOH, being an air pump, the less air.fuel that passes through the engine, well..... I can get 28 mpg or 45 mpg with it.