Fuel protests Act now to
Facts and figures reduce tax
behind the rises rate for 2019

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French law
will protect
Britons in
Brexit chaos

My pain
living far
from my
old mum
in the UK

P15

Draft deal ‘changes everything’ says ministry source

KEY rights for Britons living in France are
protected under the draft EU Brexit deal but
other factors affecting Britons abroad in the
EU continue to be in doubt.
One significant step forward is that the
Senate has passed a bill giving the French
government powers to make laws securing
Britons’ residency rights, among other issues,
in the case of a no-deal Brexit – although it
requires the UK to treat French expats well.
The bill stresses the need for emergency laws
as the rights of Britons to live, work and claim
benefits here would all be lost in the event of
a no-deal. It is set to be debated by MPs on
December 10 before becoming law.
Olivier Cadic, senator for the French abroad,
told colleagues: “Five million people [Britons
in the EU and EU expats in UK] are living in
great anxiety. This nightmare must cease. We
must be flexible and pragmatic.”
The draft deal covers the right to an annually-uprated UK pension and for Britain to
continue to pay for pensioners’ healthcare. It

still faces the challenge of passing both the
UK and EU parliaments.
Omissions include local and EU election
voting and the right to freely move to, or
work in, other EU countries. 1,715 British
people who work in France as fonctionnaires
including teachers also face losing their jobs.
A French Foreign Ministry source said the
draft deal “changes everything”, adding: “The
situation for British people here, and for the
French in the UK, is sorted if we have this.”
The UK has said it wants to continue funding expat pensioners’ healthcare and participating in the EHIC scheme in the case of a
no-deal but it has not issued specific contingency no-deal notes to help expats as it has
on other subjects. It stated in July in a white
paper on the future UK/EU relationship that
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December 2018

Anger at fuel prices: why the rise?
AROUND 280,000 people, the selfnamed gilets jaunes (yellow vests), took
to the roads across France on November
17 to protest at fuel price rises, although
it widened into a general protest at taxes.
They say sporadic blockades and
demonstrations will continue until
action is taken. Nurses vowed to join in.
The protests were organised through
social media and several were not
declared, as legally required, to prefectures. A woman protestor was run over
and killed by a driver trying to pass and First fuel protest on November 17
14 people were seriously injured on sive European country for petrol.
Italy is the highest with a litre
November 17.
reaching €1.65. The UK is cheaper
Below we analyse the fuel price rises.
at €1.47.
For diesel France is the fifth most
How much have fuel prices increased?
In mid-October when protestors began to expensive. Sweden is the highest
voice anger, fuel prices were 19 cents per with an average price of €1.58.
litre higher for petrol than in May 2017
when President Macron was elected Billions go into general budget
(SP95 €1.37 to €1.56) and 31 cents higher The main fuel tax, the TICPE, raises
for diesel (€1.21 to €1.52). The extra tax €34billion a year for France – 61%
in this is 7 cents for diesel and there will goes to the state, 18% to the regions,
be another 7 cents in 2019. The tax on 18% to departments and 3% finances
transport infrastructure. Of the state’s
petrol will also increase, by 4 cents.
Photo: Dupont Lajoie-matricule 9279_
dupont_lajoie_Twitter

HIGHLIGHTS

The Connexion

Is it all tax?
For petrol, 34% of the rise is due to new
tax and 37% for diesel. The rest is down
to rises in the price of crude oil, which
has tripled since February 2016.
Although the price of crude oil in dollars is lower than five years ago, currency fluctuations mean euro-buyers are
not benefiting from this fall.
Why has diesel gone up more?
France decided under the Hollande
government to neutralise the tax advantage given to diesel cars so they are
treated in the same way as petrol cars.
President Macron has maintained this.
Diesel cars burn fuel more efficiently
than petrol ones and so emit less carbon
dioxide, the gas blamed for most of the
“greenhouse effect” responsible for
global warming. But older diesels, especially those using mechanical injectors,
emit more fine particles of pollutants
which are small enough to enter the
bloodstream via the lungs. Researchers
have linked these particles to 48,000
deaths from pollution each year.
In percentage terms, tax has dropped
In percentage terms the amount of tax
applied on fuel has not changed much
since 2008 – in fact, it has fallen. In 2008
taxes made up 64% of the price of a litre
of petrol. The percentage now is 61.4%.
France is eighth highest in EU
European Commission figures show
that the average price of petrol in
France on November 12 was €1.48 a
litre, making it the eighth most expen-

share, €7.2bn is used directly for
measures to protect and improve the
environment, the rest entering the
general budget (some of which is used
for environmental initiatives).
We are better off than 40 years ago
Relatively high pay in France means
petrol is cheaper in real terms than
40 years ago. An hour’s pay at today’s
minimum wage buys six litres of
petrol. It bought three litres in 1978.
Will the protest change anything?
The government says not. Prime
Minister Edouard Philippe says
they will be sticking to their tax
policies. He said that not to do so
would be to be acting without taking into account the risks we face.
Will there be more protests?
Around 140 protests took place on
November 18 and more were promised in the weeks to come.
Get over it, drivers: Comment page 14

‘We just cannot afford to drive’
THE gilets jaunes movement was organised
through social media
and fuelled by YouTube
videos so it is difficult to
identify leaders or official spokespeople.
One who did emerge
was Thierry Paul
Valette, founder of the
Égalité Nationale movement which fights corruption in public life.
“All we want is an
immediate drop in taxes
at the pumps,” he said.
“The French feel they
are being taxed and taxed and
taxed, and when fuel prices shot up
as tax rose, it was the drop which
caused the vase to overflow.”
Mr Valette said political parties,
unions and other institutions were
not included in the gilets jaunes
movement “as they are part of the
problem”.
He said comparisons showing
petrol was more expensive in real
terms 40 years ago did not address
the feeling of being over-taxed.
Another leader to emerge was
Jacline Mouraud, pictured, from
Ploërmel, Morbihan, who says she
earns around €1,000 a month as a
hypnotherapist. She made an
impassioned plea to President

Macron on YouTube
against the rises.
“I drive 25,000 km
a year, almost all of
which is work-related,” she said. All the
taxes that we have to
pay now make it
impossible for people like me, and others who are worse
off, to live decently.
“For me, the fuel
price rise was just
too much and it is
obvious that others
feel the same. It is no
good offering incentives to buy a
new car when people struggle to
put fuel in the one they have.”
Many accused President Macron
as being a ‘president of the rich.’
In spite of the antipathy towards
politicians from the gilets jaunes,
representatives of both the far right
Rassemblement National and the
far left France Insoumise attended
the demonstrations.
Les Républicains’ leader in
Charente François Bonneau said
leaders showed their backing for the
protesters. He criticised the government for “punishing” owners of
diesel vehicles, saying current
measures were hitting rural areas
particularly hard.

Social network Jacquerie?
THE protest of November 17 mobilised almost 300,000 people but
with a heavy human cost – one
death, hundreds injured, 282
arrests.... the figures show its
success and its danger.
Some commentators compared it
(with exaggeration) to France’s
Jacquerie revolts of the Middle
Ages when peasants facing taxes
and seeing their fellow countrymen
starving rose up – with the boost of
social media for today’s version.
But they add that the Jacqueries
always ended badly (for them)...
The protest is not centralised, it is
random, sporadic and without leaders and thus there is no one with
whom the powers-that-be can
negotiate. The relative success of
the social mix (retirees, farmers,
bikers, employees, independent
workers) was carried by the unifying feeling of anti-Macronism.
The question is: will it be able to
organise itself into a real political
movement and, if so, will it echo
the speeches of the far left or far
right heard on November 17? B.L.

President’s driving
cheque plan ‘idiotic’
PRESIDENT Macron’s proposal for a “car
fuel cheque” for employees hit by the rises
has been called “idiotic” by France’s main
motoring organisation.
President Macron said he was in favour
of extending a system in place in Hautsde-France, where workers who drive
more than 30km per day and earn less
than twice the minimum wage (currently
€1,498 per month before deductions),
would receive a monthly bonus of €20.
Pierre Chasseray, of the lobby group 40
Millions d’automobilistes, told Connexion:
“It is completely idiotic. On the one hand
they slap on taxes and then, instead of
lowering the taxes when they become
insupportable, they introduce a ‘payment’
as if it is a present.
“If they give the credit to everyone who
earns below €2,996 gross per month,
there will be hardly anyone who does not
get repaid. It would be simpler to just
admit the mistake and lower taxes.”
Mr Chasseray was dismissive of the
November 17 protest. “It has no support
from serious organisations,” he said.
Elsewhere, President Macron said he
was in favour of extending the current
bonus to help buy cleaner vehicles,
including second-hand ones.

Diesels face stricter CT tests in pollution crackdown
OWNERS of diesel vehicles face stiffer
new contrôle technique tests from
January 1... the second major change to
the French MOT in eight months and
aimed at ridding streets of vehicles
putting out black smoke.
More than 15 million diesels will face
extra tests targeting pollution, cutting
emissions to almost the same level as
when the vehicles were new.
Only post-2005 vehicles – meeting
Euro 4, 5 or 6 – are affected and cars
need a test from four years old.
Test centres expect a rush of owners
trying to beat the test as a pass is valid

for two years. Petrol cars will also face
tests on emissions of carbon monoxide
and CO2, unburned hydrocarbons and
nitrogen oxides.
The moves follow May’s change to
bring France into line with EU road
safety standards. Some diesel drivers
could face bills of up to €4,000 for work
– especially those with défapée cars
with the particulate filter taken out.
Renewing this or an exhaust gas
recirculation (EGR) valve is expensive,
but the vast majority will gain a pass.
Rémi Courant, quality control head
at major CT chain Dekra, said: “The

aim is not to put cars off the road but
to cut pollution by reducing emissions
to near the level when the car was new.
“If vehicles are well maintained, they
should pass with no problem – and the
test should cost only a few euros extra.”
Vehicles doing only short runs in
town can soot up emissions filters, but
drivers could avoid this by doing
longer journeys.
Chemical treatments for the fuel tank
are available but some garages offer a
“green” décalaminage, where hydrogen
is injected into the engine to “burn”
soot. Elsewhere, garages offer a check

and clean-up décrassage for about €50.
Fabrice Godefroy, of Diéséliste de
France group, said tighter emissions
rules should mean manufacturers
change their servicing routines to do
more to cut emissions.
Some owners may also opt out and
plump for a new car via the state prime
à la conversion that gives up to €2,500
towards a low-polluting car, with manufacturers adding incentives of several
thousand more.
Diesels have much better fuel
consumption than petrol but are better
suited for high-mileage use.

December 2018

France takes lead
in call for a better
and safer internet

connexionfrance.com

Update tax
office to avoid
overpayment

Photo: ArchiGraphi

An architect’s impression of the
village which will feature a typical
square and a concert hall and cafe

FRANCE was one of the first countries to sign
up to World Wide Web inventor Tim BernersLee’s Contract for the Web pledge to protect
online freedoms and rights.
It comes as President Macron told big web companies to expect more regulation from France and
Europe, saying he wants a middle way between a
self-regulated, ungoverned “Cali­for­nian” internet
and a highly controlled “Chinese” one.
Remembering the optimism of the early days of
the web, Mr Berners-Lee proposed principles to
be agreed by governments, firms and individuals
to rebuild trust and end “online abuse, prejudice,
bias, polarisation and fake news”. He said: “The
web’s undeniable benefits seem to come with far
too many unacceptable risks: to our privacy, our
democracy, even our mental health.”
France’s Digital Minister Mounir Mahjoubi was
one of the first signatories to the contract, which
Mr Berners-Lee likened to a Magna Carta “for a
free, open and safe web that benefits everyone”.
Google and Facebook also signed, along with
Internet Sans Frontières (a French network
defending freedom of expression) and individuals such as Richard Bran­son and Gordon Brown.
Meanwhile, Mr Macron, speaking at the
Internet Governance Forum at Unesco’s Paris
headquarters, said there will be new rules on
matters such as fair taxation, copyright, protection of private life, the “right to good quality
information” and online security. He hoped to
address the issues in cooperation with the big
firms, on a voluntary basis and not just with laws.
The state will work with Facebook to examine
how to moderate hateful content on its site.

Test ‘Alzheimer Village’ prepares to greet residents
WORK on France’s first “Alzheimer Village”, where
people with dementia can live in a stimulating,
non-medicalised environment, is progressing with the
first residents expected in 2020.
If a scientific evaluation of the ‘village,’ at Dax in the
Landes, finds there are substantial benefits, it may
become a model for other similar projects.
The complex is inspired by one near Amsterdam and
is based on a typical south-west France bastide village.
The five-hectare site will include a central square cafe,
a concert hall, store and hairdressers and staff will wear
ordinary clothes.
Project spokeswoman Mathilde Charon-Burnel said:
“Being in a familiar environment has been shown to
help Alzheimer’s patients feel comfortable.”
There will be 120 residents, with an equal number of
carers giving 24-hour-a-day cover, plus, it is hoped, a

‘Stingy’ Ryanair kept
€678 from bailiffs
A PUBLIC body running Angoulême airport has
accused Ryanair of penny-pinching after it withheld a few hundred euros from a sum of more
than half a million it owed to get bailiffs to release
a plane blocked on the tarmac at Bordeaux.
A dispute between the SMAC (Syndicat Mixte
des Aéroports de Charente) and the low-cost
airline ended with bailiffs boarding a jet at
Bordeaux airport just as it was about to fly to
London Stansted airport.
They put seals on it and gave an order that it
should not move until the money owing was paid.
However Ryanair refused to pay €678 of the
€525,585 total, saying interest charges on the sum
should have stopped in September.
SMAC president Didier Villat said: “We will not
go to court over it but what meanness. We are a
small airport but, by taking the action we did, we
showed we stand up for what is right.”
The 149 passengers spent five hours in Bordeaux
waiting for another aircraft to arrive to fly them
on. Ryanair paid the money owed the next day and
the seized aircraft was released to fly away.
The payment brings to an end one of the legal
battles which have raged between Ryanair, the
SMAC, and French civil air authority the DGAC.

Ryanair formerly ran a service to Angoulême
airport until the Charente departmental council,
part of the SMAC, baulked at the promotional
sums the airline asked to be paid.
Since then, European courts found the sums
amounted to illegal state subsidies.
A separate legal battle is continuing over the
contracts in London, where SMAC was ordered
by an arbitration panel to pay €400,000 for allegedly breaking the contract with Ryanair. Mr Villat
said French courts had found that they did not
have to pay and Ryanair has declined to appeal in
the French courts. Ryanair did not respond to
requests for comment from Connexion.
Mr Villat said there was no hope of a renewed
service to the UK from Angoulême, adding that
the battle with Ryanair had been “very damaging”.
Other airports in similar disputes with Ryanair
include Montpellier, Nîmes and Pau, but they
have not taken matters further so far.
Ryanair chief executive Michael O’Leary has
predicted a difficult winter for the airline industry, blaming strikes and rising oil prices. The firm
reports that its net profits have dropped, though
they were still €1.2billion in the six months to
September this year.

News 3

similar number of local volunteers. There will also be
10 day-care places and arrangements for respite care to
give home carers a break.
It would especially suit people who had previously
lived in similar villages and small towns, said Ms
Charon-Burnel. The cost will be around €60 a day,
equivalent to a state nursing home.
There will be 16 homes of 300m2, with each building
having seven to eight residents. There will also be vegetable gardens where residents can work and poultry
and other animals for them to look after.
With a budget of €28.8million, the project is much
more expensive than a normal new-build nursing
home but these are usually only for around 20-30
residents. Funding is coming from the department and
regional and national health authorities, and running
costs will be €6.7million a year.

IF YOUR family situation has
changed recently, such as a new baby
or marriage, you should tell your tax
office so it can apply the correct rate
under the at-source system which
begins in January.
If not, you may pay more and have
to wait to be reimbursed in 2020.
Tax at source will apply to any
French salary or pension income you
receive, starting next year.
For many other kinds of regular
income known to the tax office, such
as a pension or salary from abroad
or income from rents, an amount
will be taken from your French bank
account each month based on the
previous year’s declaration.
Under the new system, you still
have to make an annual declaration.
Direct debits for these “other
incomes” will start on January 15, or
February 15 if you pay quarterly.
A tax service adviser said if your
situation changed in 2018 you can
make a modification - either in your
online space or by going to the tax
office in person - as of January 2.
It is best to do it as soon as possible, though he said the change will
not be processed for another two or
three months. If you are due a refund
because you paid too much at the
start of 2019 because of this, he said
this would come in 2020.

Making your
savings work
harder for
you.
Contact us for
more information
+33 (0) 422 326 240
connexion@currenciesdirect.com
currenciesdirect.com/theconnexion

Photo: screenshot culturebox.francetvinfo.fr

See 1918 peace treaty
THE CEASEFIRE treaty signed by the Allied and
German leaders on November 11, 1918 is on display
at the Château de Vincennes until January 22 as the
centrepiece of an exhibition on the armistice.
The document, usually kept in a safe at the service
historique at the château, consists of 13 typed pages,
which were bound in a book with other related documents such as maps and reports in the 1930s. It
marked a truce and the war was then officially ended
by the Treaty of Versailles on June 28, 1919.

it wants to continue pension uprating
and aggregation sytems as part of reciprocal agreements.
The EU Commission has said with or
without a deal it does not want tourist
visas brought in for short stays (defined
as 90 days in any 180 day period) for
UK visitors.
UK Prime Minister Theresa May said
the choice is between her agreed draft
deal, no deal or no Brexit.
European Council president Donald
Tusk said: “The EU is prepared for a
final deal with the UK in November.
“We are also prepared for a no-deal
but are best prepared for a no-Brexit
scenario.”
The British in Europe (BiE) coalition
of campaigners said the draft deal
“fails to deliver the promise of a deal
that would allow people to carry on
living their lives in exactly the same
manner as before”, notably because the
continuing right to free movement to
live and work across the EU is not
protected as they had repeatedly
requested.
Although the deal protects ‘frontier
workers’, who live in France but travel
daily to work in a neighbouring country, BiE says the loss of free movement
will affect those who need flexibility to
work in different countries.
An EU leaders’ summit is expected
on Novem­ber 25, at which the agreed
draft deal would be formalised, if no
states made major objections. A statement of aims for the UK/EU future
relationship, to be attached to it, was
being finalised.
The French Foreign Ministry source
said: “There must be final checks that
the interests of companies and citizens
are properly preserved. In parallel, we
continue to prepare for all hypotheses.”
Nothing is finalised about the formalities for Britons to benefit from the
deal, the source said, but during the
transition period until the end of 2020,
“their rights would be fully preserved”,
then “we’ll see when the time comes”.
In the meantime, he said, it remains
advisable for British residents to obtain
a carte de séjour, to prove they are living here according to EU rules.
“All the procedures that people can
carry out now, in France, in advance,
are a very good idea,” he said.
Speaking to senators examining the
bill to allow the government to make
laws in the case of no-deal, Europe
Minister Nathalie Loiseau said even
“permanent residency” rights obtained
by Britons living in France long-term
would “disappear” in a no-deal.
But she said France would take intelligent measures and that “it’s in our
interest to keep British people on our
territory… but let’s see first what
measures the British take before
revealing ours”.
She also spoke of the 1,715 British
fonctionnaires (civil servants), including
school English teachers, saying non-EU
citizens cannot be fonctionnaires. She
said France would try to see how they
could continue to work, such as by
moving to different contracts. It was
also possible and relatively simple for
them to apply to be French, she said. It
is likely in any event that they will be
able to remain in their jobs during the
transition period until 2021.
The ministry source said that, if necessary, specific measures arising from
the no-deal bill will be worked out
from January or February.

Why my councillor role matters to me

THE 900 British people who hold
positions as town councillors in France
will be able to retain them until at least
the next local elections in 2020, whatever the outcome of Brexit.
This was confirmed by the French
government during an examination
of a French no-deal contingency
planning law in the Senate.
The news will be welcomed by many
of the Britons sitting on councils, such
as Karen Blakemore, from Saint-Merdde-Lapleau in Corrèze, who has been a
local councillor since 2014.
It means, though, that time is limited
for those seeking to sit again after
spring 2020 as they will need to obtain
French nationality. Mrs Blakemore
recently put in an application and is
hoping it will be processed in time.
“It would have been a very sad
situation, had we not been allowed to
continue,” she said.
“I always planned to apply for
nationality but it’s made me concen­
trate my efforts. We’ve both
got 10-year cartes de séjour now.”
For Mrs Blakemore, 57, a former
university administrator, it was a case
of “in at the deep end”, after she was
asked if she would like to join the
mairie council just a year after she and
her husband Tim moved to France.
The village of 173 residents has
special traditions for elected councillors, including having a procession to
“The aim of the bill is to preserve,
more or less, the same rights that
Britons have now – in a spirit of
reciprocity and parallelism with what
is done in the UK for the French.”
He said: “It’s in the interest of the UK
to give the best rights to Europeans
and it’s in the best interests of France
to give the best rights to the British.”
Speaking about Mrs Loiseau’s statement that permanent residency rights
would disappear in a no-deal, he said
the issue arises because there are two
types of permanent residency rights:

“

All the procedures that
people can carry out now,
in France, in advance, are
a very good idea
for EU citizens and non-EU citizens.
Govern­
ment orders would permit
France to sort out the status of British
people who have been living in France
for more than five years, and their
families, he said. “They would in principle be eligible for a permanent residency card for a third-country resident.”
As for those resident for shorter
peri­ods, it remains to be worked out.
“But the objective is not to need
visas,” he said. “The point would be to
take measures to simplify everything
and that everything should go well.”
He added: “Both sides have given
assurances of their good intentions
[towards expatriate citizens], but first
our aim is to arrive at a good deal.”
munity Committee of
British Com­
France
chairman
Chris­
t opher
Chantrey said: “We’re relieved to have

Karen Blakemore with her
councillor’s plaque and tree
each new councillor’s home to plant a
tree (see photo). “It’s to bring you good
luck for your future role and elections,”
she said. They also install a plaque with
a French flag attached – she originally
a deal rather than no-deal. It’s a safety
net but it’s inadequate. It’s no better
than what was announced a year ago
and they’ve not plugged the holes
we’ve been asking about.
“Uncertainty continues as it will
have to be approved by the UK parliament, the EU27 and the Euro­
pean
Parlia­ment. It could still fail and the
UK government could fall. We’re keeping our options open regarding a
People’s Vote [a referendum, including
a Remain option] and trying still,
through the European parliament, to
see if they can amend the text.
“We want to strengthen the provisions without undermining what’s
been achieved so far. It has been
underestimated in the UK as to the
number of vulnerable people who are
at risk, if there is no deal. Or indeed
the professional people who are at risk
if the deal is not improved.”
The chairwoman of BiE, Jane
Gol­ding called the exclusion of free
movement “unacceptable”, saying it is
“a life­line for many of us”.
She said: “It is now up to the Euro­
pean Parliament to walk the talk on its
red lines – free movement in our case
– but also to put pressure on all sides
to ring-fence the agreement on
citizens’ rights so 4.6 million people
can sleep at night, whatever happens
on Brexit.”
Senator for the French abroad Olivier
Cadic, who lives in Kent, said it might
be hard for Theresa May to win support and no-deal cannot be excluded.
He is backing a referendum, in which
he hopes EU citizens in the UK would
be able to vote.
He said: “The people created the
original decision, they must have the
final say, but only once everything’s
clear. For the moment, things could
still change.”

asked permission to add a St George’s
flag but now has decided to have two
French ones instead.
The couple are the only residents of
non-French origin.
“We got as integrated as we could
very early on,” she said.
“In the first three years, my jobs
included managing a 20-person gîte
belonging to the commune. We’re on a
popular hiking route and people come
from all over France.
“It was a challenge because I only
had O-level French but I’m very
enthusiastic about speaking it and am
not afraid of making mistakes or being
corrected. The added difficulty was
getting used to the Corrèze accent and
the patois the older generation use,
like à demo for à demain (see you
tomorrow) or mershi instead of merci.”
In addition to around eight meetings
a year, plus ceremonies on special
occasions such as Remembrance Day,
she now works on some of the larger
projects at the mairie.
“I have particularly enjoyed being
involved in the project to name all of
the roads in our commune and
the allocation of house numbers prior
to fibre being delivered to our area.
“I also help deliver Christmas food
parcels to the elderly and housebound
and take part in a senior citizens’ meal
each year and each July I help run a
stand at the village brocante.”

UK acts to help
with healthcare

BRITAIN has introduced a bill in which it
offers to continue to pay for the healthcare of
its state pensioners living abroad in the EU
– including those moving after Brexit – and
to keep funding EHICs for travellers.
The pledge would apply regardless of a
Brexit deal but Britain would expect it to
involve reciprocal deals with the EU and/or
individual member states.
It came as the EU issued more contingency
planning notes about a no-deal scenario,
saying that EU states should take a “generous
approach to the rights of UK
citizens already resident in their territory”.
It said, for example, that periods of legal
residence as EU citizens in their adopted
countries should count as legal residence
periods under residency rules concerning
non-EU nationals, helping them to secure
long-term resident status in the case of a
no-deal.
The Commission also said it does not want
British visitors to EU countries to have to
have visitor visas in the case of a no-deal.
The proposal has yet to be agreed by the
Council of the EU and the European
Parliament but would mean UK visitors
could come to the Schengen zone for up to
90 days in total over any 180-day period, like
other states that benefit from being on the
visa-waiver list (all non-EU country visitors
need a visa to stay more than three months).
This is conditional on the UK also offering
all EU visitors visa-free entry for short trips,
which looks likely as the UK has already said
it would not require visas from EU citizens
coming on short tourist or business trips.
The proposal would not, however, exempt
British travellers from the stricter entry
checks for non-EU visitors or from the
fee-paying Etias online visitor permission
scheme coming into force in 2021.

December 2018
In Brief
n A WOMAN from the northwest who was refused a carte de
séjour because her small business had a low, irregular turnover due to ill health, is fighting
the decision with an appeal supported by ecas.org, a Brusselsbased rights organisation.
An Interior Ministry source
said the ministry favours “a
maximum of flexibility for the
British” on residency rules after
Brexit but the prime minister
will have the final say.
Connexion spoke to a widow
served an order to leave France
due to her having lived on benefits (see November issue) and
therefore having a carte de
séjour refused. She has now
returned to the UK.
n THE BRITISH Embassy has
Brexit outreach meetings at
Annecy on December 3 (tinyurl.
com/ycog48l6) and at Dijon on
December 10 (tinyurl.com/
y7yuryn2).
n FREEDOM of movement
and its importance to Britons in
the EU is the subject of a study
by Brexit Brits Abroad, a British
project looking at the impacts of
Brexit on Britons across the EU.
See tinyurl.com/ycnfjsn3.
n MEMBERS of the British in
Europe coalition joined
the3million group for EU27
citizens in the UK for the Last
Mile citizens’ lobby in
Westminster and handed a
letter to 10 Downing Street
(tinyurl.com/y8uux2to) after
forming a human chain from
Parliament Square. UK MPs
from all main parties spoke in
support – as well as French
Senator Olivier Cadic, who has
asked the French to guarantee
the citizens’ rights agreement
for British people in France.
n THE General Court of the
EU was set to rule on Novem­
ber 26 on French barrister
Julien Fouchet’s case on behalf
of Britons in the EU, including
veteran Harry Shindler. It calls
into question the legality of the
Brexit negotiations due to the
exclusion of long-term expatriates from the referendum.
There was also to be a hearing
in the European Court of Justice
on November 27 about whether
the UK can withdraw unilaterally and unconditionally from
the Brexit process.
The UK government has
sought leave to appeal this to
the Supreme Court.
Mr Fouchet has also been
seeking to obtain the right for
Britons to vote in the EU elections next year, and has written
on this at tinyurl.com/ybvqnqw6.
n A PRIVATE member’s bill to
end the 15-year limit on Britons
abroad voting has completed a
period of in-depth ‘committee
stage’ scrutiny by MPs. It goes
to a report stage at the House of
Commons on January 25.
Dr Sue Collard of the Univer­
sity of Sussex’s politics department is launching a website,
britonsvotingabroad.co.uk, about
the bill and the 15-year rule.

The Connexion

December 2018

connexionfrance.com

Christmas and the New
Year holidays are prime periods
for burglaries, with the number
of break-ins second only to
summertime.
Official statistics show the
number of burglaries in France
have been largely static since
2012, after a 12-year period
which saw a 37% increase.
The number of burglaries and
attempted burglaries in 2017
rose 2% on the previous year,
according to official statistics,
but the crime rate has slowed.
The final figure of 249,000 is
lower than the historical peak
of 2013.
About 30,000 households
were the victims of more than
one break-in.
Violent home intrusions,
known as home-jackings,
remain relatively rare, with
3,400 reported in 2017, a figure
that has changed little in 12
years.
July, August and December
accounted for 27% of burglaries
on main homes in 2017.
Police and gendarmes started
proceedings for burglary
against 20,800 people, almost
all of them young men, with a
quarter under 18.
More than half of targets were
main homes (59%), with the
rest being second homes,

News in brief

Still time to write
your letter to Santa

THERE is still time to send
those all-important lists to
Father Christmas – but do not
leave it too late.
Letters simply addressed to
Santa Claus, with or without a
stamp, will be delivered by the
elves at La Poste as long as they
are posted by December 17,
while emails can be sent via the
pere-noel.laposte.fr website.

Prehistoric treasure
found in city centre
MORE than 200,000 objects
dating back 14,000 years have
been uncovered in the centre of
Angoulême.
The discovery, including
200,000 flints and 400 arrowheads, was made during a
routine excavation prior to the
construction of a business
centre a few minutes from the
station in the Charente city.

Schools to teach
Highway Code
THE Highway Code will be
taught in schools as part of an
attempt to slash the cost of
learning to drive for young
people, President Emmanuel
Macron has said.
Mr Macron said he “wants to
help get the permit faster and
cheaper”, and promises a “drastic” reduction in its cost. The
measures will be introduced in
a mobility law to be presented
to MPs by the end of the year.

Photo: S_Salow-Pixabay

Burglary figures stable - but beware

Most burglaries are carried out on main homes by young
men, with a quarter of the thieves under the age of 18
businesses or other buildings
such as schools.
Almost three-quarters (74%)
of the burglars identified were
French, 11% came from African
countries and 11% from other
European countries.
Several involved gangs. In
August 2017, a gang of four
Albanian men were arrested,
with investigators linking them
to 120 burglaries in the
Angoulême area between
October 2016 and their arrest.
A report in Le Figaro newspaper claims another gang of
five Albanians arrested in
October this year committed 98
burglaries
in
NouvelleAquitaine and Occitanie
between November 2017 and

October 2018, with stolen
goods totalling €423,000.
Overall, most of the burglaries
were in two main areas: Ile de
France and the South East.
Brittany and Corsica had the
lowest rates, figures reveal.
Money, jewels, hifi equipment
and computers were the objects
most often stolen.
To reduce risks while you are
away, police and insurance
companies advise simple common sense.
Lock the house well, and use
an alarm if you have one.
Having a radio and lights fitted
to a timer to go off at random
times is an effective deterrent.
Ask trusted neighbours to
keep an eye on your property.

Cities not interested
in urban toll on cars
FOUR of France’s major cities
say they have no plans to bring
in urban tolls from 2020, even if
they are allowed to do so.
Under the proposals, tolls –
similar to London’s congestion
charge – could be set at between
€2.50 and €10 per vehicle.
Green vehicles would face the
lowest charges.
When news leaked out, the
mayors of Paris, Bordeaux,
Marseille and Nice all said they
were not interested.
Bordeaux mayor Alain Juppé
said: “The Bordelaise are touchy
on problems of urban mobility.
There are already tensions
between the town centre and
external areas. If we imposed an
urban toll, they would say we
are barricading ourselves to
keep them out.”
He said tolls might eventually
apply to lorries but “certainly
not” for privately owned cars.
Other mayors expressed similar views and, with municipal
elections in 2020, it is likely to

be difficult to find local politicians who will say they are in
favour of the tolls.
Urban tolls would be “a social
disaster”, says 40 Millions
d’Automobilistes.
The organisation’s Pierre
Chasseray told Connexion:
“What they say is that only the
rich are welcome to move freely
around cities. We have no wish
to have the rich people in cars
and everyone else in public
transport, like in London.”
Ecology minister François de
Rugy said the new measure
merely gives substance to existing laws, so cities can implement tolls if they want to.
Senator Fabienne Keller said
French cities should follow the
example of Stockholm, where
tolls have been in place since
2009 and have led to a 28% fall
in traffic, with variable tolls
highest at rush hours.
The decree could be sent to
parliament for approval in the
spring.

Village flats-for-pupils plan
CHEAP apartments are being offered to families by the mayor of a
Var village to save the commune’s school from closure.
The school at Ascros, 45 km northwest of Nice, has 11 pupils. A
neighbouring village school has just 10. Both could be closed as
they have fewer than the officially mandated 12 students.
Authorities in the 160-resident village own two three-bedroom
apartments and one two-bed property, which have been offered for
rent at no more than €200 a month to attract more families.

The gendarmerie – and police
if you live in a town of more
than 10,000 people – operate a
formal programme Opération
Tranquillité Vacances during all
school holiday periods.
Residents and businesses can
ask their local gendarmes to
keep a watch over their properties. Gendarmes then visit at
various times during the day or
night, checking shutters, gates,
and back gardens to make sure
all is as it should be.
The idea is that burglars often
watch houses before breaking
in and if they see a gendarmerie
vehicle in the area, they are
likely to be dissuaded. It is a free
service.
There are also 800 communes
in France which have Voisins
Vigilants organisations, based
on the Neighbourhood Watch
schemes in the UK.
If your commune has one,
letting the co-ordinators know
you will be away will mean
extra attention for your home.
For the unlucky few who are
burgled, it is likely that your
household insurance will cover
you for some of the loss.
Exceptions – dependent on
insurer – include if the house
has been left empty for some
time (90 days is common).
Many contracts have a maxi-

For

mum value for repayment of
stolen goods so if you have
expensive items, check you are
covered adequately.
You will have to make a declaration of the burglary at the
nearest gendarmerie or police
station, and obtain a receipt.
In rural areas, gendarmeries
are often open to the public for
only a couple of hours a week,
but you can usually make an
appointment to report burglaries by telephoning a local
number. Your mairie will be
able to give details.
Then, within two days, you
must make a claim with your
insurance firm by letter.
Examples in French are easily
found on the internet.
This must be followed, usually
within a fortnight, by your estimate of the value of the goods
stolen, supported by documentary evidence – sales receipts,
photos, identity numbers if you
have them for computer equipment. It is also important to
keep any objects damaged by
the burglars.
The psychological shock of
burglary can be significant. If
you are affected, see your
doctor, who in most areas can
refer you to specialised services,
paid for by the health system, to
help you to cope.

News 5
Holiday home
agencies unite
against Airbnb
TWO of France’s best-known
holiday property organisations
have joined forces to consolidate their position in the face of
rising competition from rental
websites such as Airbnb.
Gîtes de France and
Clévacances, after months of
talks, are to create a joint venture, creating the largest marketing platform dedicated to
certified self-catering accommodation in France from next
year. Properties run by both
groups will be centralised on
one website, clevacances.com.

War memorial
a first for Paris

THE first monument honouring all 94,415 of Paris’s victims
of World War One was inaugurated on November 11.
The 280m monument at the
Père-Lachaise cemetery consists of 150 blue steel panels,
engraved with the names of the
city’s war dead in alphabetical
order. There are many smaller
monuments in the city but until
now not one with all the names.
It took eight years to identify
all the names from lists in each
of the city’s arrondissements.

one who knows France

Mont St Michel, Normandy

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NL173 Connexion 129x170mm - June 2018

LANDLINE phone and network operator Orange faces
fines of up to a billion euros
over successive failures of its
ADSL service.
Orange admitted to MPs that
600,000 users across France had
lost internet, TV and phone for
hours and even days.
Telecoms regulator Arcep saw
a “significant growing degradation in service” and reminded
Orange it had a duty to provide
a quality national service.
It could be fined up to 5% of its
business – possibly €1billion – for
missing seven of its 12 obligations, including quick set-up of
new lines and prompt response to
repairs and complaints.
Orange blames weather and
cable thefts but consumer
groups noted a lack of spending
on the copper network as it was
replaced by a faster and more
reliable optical service.
Anyone with problems can
ask Arcep (jalerte.arcep.fr) for
action and compensation.

Car site helps buyer beware
BUYERS of secondhand cars
may be helped to avoid duds
and frauds by a new official
website containing background
details on vehicles for sale.
HistoVec is aimed at stopping
cheating in personal sales or via
small garages, where the kilometrage is wound back or a
crash-damaged or written-off
car is tarted up to look new.
Consumer protection agency
DGCCRF said “half of secondhand sales involved serious or
minor fraud” in 2015. Last year
5.7million vehicles were sold on
the véhicules d’occasion market.
Investigators have broken up
criminal rings that sold more
than 6,000 dangerous vehicles
in the past five years.
The Interior Ministry wants
buyers looking at adverts on
sales sites to be able to access
vehicle details supplied “in
good faith” by the seller for
HistoVec.
A version of the site, at the
histovec.interieur.gouv.fr/histovec/home address, is open as a
test for buyers and sellers to see
what is involved. Sellers can

December 2018

€21m more
for heritage
Bonus-malus will apply to pick-up trucks from lottery

Photo: Renault Yannick BROSSARD

€1bn threat
over ADSL
line failures

The Connexion

connexionfrance.com

Loophole for pick-ups closes with serious costs for buyers
create a file on the site with
information from the carte grise
registration document, such as
the first registration, list of
previous owners, any accident
damage or work done, plus the
warranty and if it has been
previously stolen.
Buyers contact the seller to be
sent a link to read the file.
However, the site has flaws: it
will not be fully working until

A LOOPHOLE allowing buyers of
pick-up trucks to avoid certain
taxes and anti-pollution bonusmalus payments will be closed on
January 1.
In 2019 buyers of trucks such as
the No1 seller Ford Ranger or
Renault Alaskan must pay the
taxe sur les véhicules de société
based on taxable engine power
(from €750-€4,500) and, as they
put out more than 200g/km of
CO2, must also pay a malus of
€10,500 on top of the price.
It is estimated the malus will
bring in €200million a year.

early 2019, it is not mandatory
for sellers to upload details, and
it covers only vehicles after
2009 with AA-123-ZZ plates.
Critics have long maintained
kilometrage should be noted at
every contrôle technique (MOT)
and updated to the carte grise,
along with any repaired faults
that previously prevented the
vehicle passing its contrôle.
Meanwhile, the year-long saga

of carte grise problems goes on,
with delays of several weeks in
getting vehicle documents.
By April, 450,000 applications
were delayed but industry
sources say recent changes have
improved response times.
n Owners of electric bikes
rated over 250W or faster than
25kph need a carte grise, as it is
seen as a cyclomoteur électrique
and also needs a number plate.

Macron joke site’s making
crazy money for homeless
Enlyseeboutique’s T-shirt
reuses a Macron quote he
used to criticise welfare
spending, which he said cost
‘crazy money’ for little benefit

This official T-shirt has
a phrase used by Mr
Macron about rival
election pledges, worth
no more than snake oil
T-SHIRTS making fun of the
Elysée Palace souvenir shop
have raised €30,000 for homeless and migrant charities as
they parody some of President
Macron’s outspoken comments.
The €20 T-shirts, mugs and
bags on the enlyseeboutique.fr
site ape the boutique.elysee.fr
site which sells watches at €149
and T-shirts at €55.
Enlysée Boutique spokesman
“Manu” said: “We could not
believe the Elysée had set up a
shop; we thought it was a joke...

so we decided to have some real
fun and set up our own shop.
“So far, it has exceeded hopes
and we have set a new target of
€50,000 to help the gens de la
rue. We have had 5,000 orders
and our new Christmas packs
should help us on the way.”
He said they would be delighted if Mr Macron could “speak
out some more” to help sales.
The parody site, based in
Calais, handed €10,000 cheques
to each of three migrant and
homeless charities in November.

It is run by 15 volunteers and
their festive season packs take
aim at two government policies,
with the €50 pack targeting the
RSA poverty benefit and the
€100 pack the ISF property
wealth tax. Both offer a choice
of T-shirts, sweatshirts, bags,
mugs and beanie hats.
However, their takings are
dwarfed by the official Elysée
shop, which sold €350,000 of
products in three days after
opening, with profits used to
fund palace restoration work.

IT LOOKS like a shark painted on to a Paris map but it
took endurance athlete Marine Leleu two weeks to plan
and 10 hours to walk more than 50km of the capital’s
streets to “paint” the design using her GPS tracker.
Marine started in the 8th arrondissement and continued along streets and across parks to the ChampsElysées, with a circuit of the Arc de Triomphe for the eye.
It is not her biggest effort, as in September she became
the first woman to complete the Enduroman race from
London to Paris – running 140km to Dover, swimming
across the Channel, then cycling 290km to Paris.

AN EXTRA €21million has
been awarded for historical
monument restoration after an
outcry about the tax take from
the Loto du Patrimoine lottery.
Scratchcards and weekly draw
sales raised €200million and
there was anger as the state
took €14million in tax, leaving
just €20million for restoration.
Finance minister Gérald
Darmanin said the tax rate was
reduced from normal and
€144million of the money was
returned as prizes, while Loto
organiser FDJ got €22million.
However, after the €20million
was criticised by a leading heritage TV presenter as a “drop
in the ocean”, he loosened the
purse strings and announced
the extra €21million.

Phones locked away
for comedy shows

COMEDY fans will be forced
to put mobile phones into a
locking case if they go to a
show by Florence Foresti, who
wants to end the “pirating” of
her routines on the internet
People arriving to see her at
Paradis Latin in Paris received
a pouch for their phone that
locked until the show’s end.

Banks’ good and bad
results in stress tests
FRENCH banks have passed
the European Central Bank’s
stress tests that assess whether
they can cope with financial
shocks such as the 2008 crash.
Crédit Mutuel, BPCE and
Cré­dit Agricole got good marks
but BNP Paribas, Banque
Postale, and Société Générale
were below average. Barclays
was bottom of 48 banks, just
ahead of Lloyds.

Few pupils wearing
new school uniforms
ONLY about one in 10 pupils
in primary schools in Provins,
Seine-et-Marne, is wearing the
uniforms the mairie suggested
could help community spirit.
This follows 62% of parents
backing the uniforms, which
cost an average €137.

Beehives to boost
lemon production
BEEHIVES have been set up in
town gardens in Menton on the
Côte d’Azur to help ensure production of citron de Menton.
The mairie plans 30-40 hives
after lemon growers said they
helped boost fruit supply.

Diesel thieves rigged
pumps to charge €0
SERVICE stations lost thousands of litres of diesel after
thieves reset pumps using simple internet passwords to charge
€0 per litre. One man in Oise
was jailed for seven months.

The Connexion

December 2018

News 7

connexionfrance.com

ANIMAL cruelty campaigners are
stepping up demands for a ban on
hunting on Sundays after the deaths
of five people already this season.
France is the only country in
Europe not to have a hunt-free day
each week. The UK, for example, has
had one since 1831.
The deaths since the season opened
in September include British offroad cyclist Marc Sutton in HauteSavoie and a beater in Meuse eight
days later – the same day another
cyclist was hit in the shoulder and
two surfers were peppered with pellets by a hunter onshore.
A 10-year-old girl has also been hit
while enjoying a picnic with her
parents in Limoges, a hunter in Cher
shot his wife in the throat, and a
window in a Bordeaux suburb was
broken by a bullet fired 300m away.
Two days after Mr Sutton was
killed, an Aude MP called for an offroad cycling ban during hunts but
the Haute-Savoie hunt federation
suspended nine hunters and banned
hunting for the rest of the season.
Some communes elsewhere
banned walkers in the forest, while
others ordered them and mushroom
pickers to wear hi-visibility clothing.
In Alsace, hunters gave out hi-visi-

Photo: Torry Wiley

Photo: SantéVet

New calls for hunt ban Pets are not just for home
after death toll grows

Hunters told of need for caution
towards ‘other users of nature’
bility jackets but also asked members
to use lead shot, not bullets.
Lead will not kill at more than
100m whereas bullets travel miles.
Now 76 groups including Fondation
Bardot, SPA, Aspas, Peta, L214, 30
Millions d’Amis and the Ligue pour
la Protection des Oiseaux have written an open letter denouncing hunt
cruelty and provocations. A petition
by Aspas has 204,000 signatures.
Aspas spokesman Marc Gir­
aud
said: “Less than 2% of the population
hunt and the government speaks to
them... but does not talk to anyone
from the many millions who enjoy
nature and want to protect it.

“Hunters are getting fewer and
fewer but more and more powerful.”
Ecology minister François de Rugy
met leaders of the Fédération
Nationale des Chasseurs to demand
better hunt safety and training but
has failed to meet anti-hunt groups.
Each year there are 100-200 hunting accidents with 10-20 deaths,
although the hunting and wildlife
agency ONCFS says the number of
accidents has fallen, from 203 in
2013-14 to 113 last year.
At the same time, the number of
hunters has also fallen, from 1.3
million in 2002 to a million today.
Willy Schraen, president of the
Fédération Nationale des Chasseurs,
told Connexion he will meet other
nature-users to improve safety.
“We will look at putting up more
signs to warn there is a hunt taking
place. We would also hope other
users would dress in hi-vis clothing
– as hunters do – to avoid accidents.”
He reminded hunters “that communication and caution towards
other users of nature must continue
to be a golden rule of hunting”.
Meanwhile, a petition calling on
sports store Decathlon to stop selling
hunt equipment as it ‘is not a sport’
has been signed by 92,000 people.

SantéVet office worker Erika Schaitl at her desk with her Shih Tzu Jetsan
STAFF in an insurance office have found
the ideal way to deal with stress at work...
they bring their pets in with them.
The 150 staff at animal insurance firm
SantéVet in Lyon can take pets to work –
but only four at a time, for safety reasons.
Dogs are regular visitors, and a parrot, but
no cats in case people are allergic. For

SantéVet boss Jérôme Salord, it is not a
problem: “Having animals in the office is
good for us all, it helps us relax.”
Businesses that welcome animals are
honoured in the Pet Friendly awards and
this year the winners were Royal Canin
France, Campings Sites et Paysages,
Groupe Domitys and pet website Wamiz.

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Brexit brings uncertainty, including for expatriates holding
UK pensions. To determine if a transfer is in your best
interests, and to understand the possible benefits, please
contact us to arrange a personal evaluation
(which is provided free of charge and without obligation).

Pesticide ban helps towns find ‘new’ ways to beat weeds
After farmers using the common pesticide metam
sodium had difficulty breathing, it was banned in
France until February for tests. Similar fears on
other pesticides prompted a national ban on
councils using chemicals in parks and, as Brian
McCulloch finds, encouraged other ways of working
COMMUNES have had to find
new methods of killing weeds
since pesticides and herbicides
were banned in public parks and
gardens 18 months ago.
That has meant blow-torches,
hot water or even councils going
back in time and getting their
workers to hoe out weeds.
Even before putting the ban in
place, the government had been
encouraging communes to go
“zero-pesticide”.
Since 2015, those doing so can
use the label Terre Saine
(healthy ground).
So far, 317 communes have
won the label, and another
4,200 are aiming for one.
It means not using pesticides,
including anti-moss preparations on roads and paths, for at
least a year.
One Terre Saine village is
Blanzac in Charente, which
meets all the criteria and was
awarded the highest distinction, a four-butterfly symbol.
Mayor Jean-Philippe Sallée

said their solution was simple.
“Elbow grease! Our team in the
parks and gardens uses gas
blow torches at the start of the
growing season, then mainly
the hoe.
“But what is important, too, is
we ask the population to look
after the weeds in front of their
houses and businesses, and that
means the workload on our
staff remains reasonable.
“Most do... but some say they
pay their taxes for the town to
do the work.”
The town’s streets have a
slightly shaggier look but the
move has had support in spite
of the extra cost, with an extra
gardener hired.
A sit-on strimmer was also
bought, but did not cope well
with the medieval streets’
narrow and uneven pavements.
The cemetery is the biggest
problem, with residents refusing to accept weeds in the paths
and around graves.
“We have put in Japanese-

Blanzac mayor Jean-Philippe Sallée shows the four-butterfly
Terre Saine label, given to ‘zero-pesticide’ communes
style stepping stones in what
used to be gravel paths and it
has made things look better,
and calmed people down,” Mr
Sallée said.
“Using less pesticides is
important for all sorts of
reasons and we, as elected
We ask residents to members, have to take a lead.”
move against weedkillers
look after the weeds in hasThealso
encouraged the use of
front of their houses.
new machines in vineyards.
For a long time, vignerons
Most do... but some have
sprayed weedkiller, usually
say they pay their twice a year, along the foot of
row of vines as yields are
taxes for the town to each
higher if there is no grass there.
do the work
Now powered hoes, driven

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Oeliatec machines use very
hot water to kill weeds
from a tractor drive, can clear
weeds at the vine base – but vignerons say they are costly to buy
and use and damage the vines.
Brittany led France 10 years
ago when it banned pesticides
in public parks and gardens and
that gave inventor Jean-Pierre
Barre the push to manufacture
an alternative weedkiller, using
very hot water.
Called Oeliatec, it is fed by a
mobile boiler, fuelled by central
heating oil, to heat and pressurise water to 120C.
Using a lance, the operator
squirts scalding water on to
weeds, killing them quickly.

Shoppers force
up food quality
PRESSURE from shoppers for
safer and better quality supermarket food is working – with
price no longer the only selling
point, an industry whistleblower believes.
Christophe Brusset, who
worked as a food buyer for 25
years said: “For the first time I
have heard a supermarket ad on
the radio using quality as the
main argument and not price.
“It is a sign that pressure from
the public for better and safer
food is finally getting through.”
Mr Brusset has written two
books exposing horrors he came
across during his career.
His first book, Vous êtes fous
d’avaler ça (You’re mad to eat
that) three years ago, exposed
how chilli powder from India
went on sale containing mouse
droppings and dead mice.
A widely-sold green tea was
heavily contaminated with pesticides, and Chinese meat products
included rat and fox.
He said: “Price dominated
everything. Supermarket annual negotiations were all about
low prices and how much suppliers and manufacturers would
pay to be in adverts or to contribute to new displays.
“Suppliers then put price pressure on the producers and quality plummeted. It was evident.
“When I worked with spices,
some ended up little more than

coloured dust.” Manufacturers
are equally to blame, boosting
cheap ingredients with sugar
and water, which then require
thickeners and other additives.
He said: “One interviewer
brought the food she had served
her young son for breakfast,
Nestlé drinking chocolate in
milk and cereal.
“The chocolate powder was
80% sugar and the cereal 46%.”
In his new book, Et maintenant on mange quoi? (What are
we eating now?), he advises
avoiding processed food or, if
you cannot, choosing food with
the shortest list of ingredients.
Even organic food is suspect if
it comes ready processed, with
dishes having added water, gum
and other strange ingredients.
“Prepare food yourself if you
able to,” he said. “It is far healthier, often tastier and in the end
cheaper.”
Mr Brusset called on shoppers
to continue to question stores
about what they sell so the
message that people care about
what they eat gets through.
“A survey from the French
research agency Insee this year
showed that eating mainly biofood decreases the risk of getting certain cancers by 80%.
“It is that sort of information
which people must act on when
they buy and they must pass on
their concerns to the stores.”

Units cost €16,000-€78,000 and
are bulky and heavy, needing
batteries and electric motors to
lug them around, which
involves using a trailer.
So far, 700 have sold, mainly
to local councils, and one
satisfied customer is Le Rheu
garden city, outside Rennes,
where the Oeliatec unit has
been used daily for three years.
Town general manager
Damien Carlo said: “We are
very happy with it. It is one
method among others and it
complements the manual methods, using hoes, which we use.”
Its main drawback is the time
it takes to manoeuvre, so it is
slower than using a hoe – but
more efficient at killing weeds
in hard-to-reach corners.
Despite the positive experience, he said the town still
needs to use chemical weedkillers on paths which are not
asphalted and on its sports
fields.
He said: “With the paths, they
are not sealed, being chalk and
gravel, so finding an alternative
is difficult.
“We do not want to have to
asphalt over the pavements in
order to reduce pesticide use, as
the environmental damage will
actually be greater if we do so,
especially with increased runoff into the rivers.”

Ouigo TGV adds new
destinations in south
SNCF’s low-cost TGV service
Ouigo is to offer more services
from Paris to south-east France
as it launches operations out of
the Gare de Lyon.
From December 9, services
between the station and
Antibes, Les Arcs-Draguignan,
Cannes, Nice, Saint-Raphaël
and Toulon will be available,
with prices starting at around
€19, as well as to Lille-Flanders
in the north.

Restaurants ‘must
offer doggy bags’
RESTAURANTS, cafés and bistros across France will be
obliged to supply diners with
“doggy-bags” if requested from
July 2021, under a new law to
reduce food waste.
Some 10million tonnes of
food, worth an estimated
€16billion, is thrown away in
France every year. The law says
diners must have the chance to
take home uneaten food.

MPs try again to ban
smacking children
A law which would make
France the 55th country in the
world, and the 23rd in the EU,
to legally ban the smacking of
children was due to be debated
by MPs at the end of November.
The latest anti-smacking proposal comes nearly two years
after France’s Constitutional
Council struck down the last
attempt to outlaw physical
punishment against children on
technical grounds.

The Connexion

December 2018

News 9

connexionfrance.com

AN angry father has demanded
a government rethink on medical tests for older drivers after
his daughter lost a leg in an
accident with a 92-year-old.
Seven others were hurt in the
crash that severely injured
Bertrand Déroul­ède’s 27-yearold tennis teacher daughter.
Mr Déroul­ède called for tests
for over-75s to check their
vision and driving aptitude, but
the government rejected this.
Interior Minister Christophe
Castaner said he had no plans
to make all over-60s pass tests.
He said drivers and families
should act responsibly – but Mr

Déroul­ède called on the government to reconsider.
He said he was not targeting
old drivers but that other major
European countries had tests
and he felt France should have
the courage to do the same.
Previous calls for change have
failed as ‘“discriminatory” and
for fear of pushing a person into
dependence.
In the UK a licence is valid to
the age of 70 and then renewed
every three years if the driver
passes an eye test (photocard
photos must be renewed every
10 years), but in France drivers
have a licence for life.

Iron Age farmers’ saltmill
found on Dune de Pilat
IRON Age farmers lived on
Europe’s highest sand dune,
Dune de Pilat in Gironde, and
heated seawater there to get
salt, archaeologists have found.
A dig at the site found traces
of huts, a fire to heat seawater,
and a saltmill on two sites a few
metres from the shore.
The team, led by archaeology
volunteer Philippe Jacques from
the Arcachon local history

group Shaapb, uncovered evidence that Iron Age people
came with animals to the site in
around 700BC, set up home
and started farming.
In all, 22 post holes were
found, showing there had been
a succession of small buildings.
Mr Jacques has studied the
dune for years and the latest dig
comes after a funerary urn was
uncovered by a storm in 2014.

A HIGH tech solution had to be found
when Toulouse residents voted to move a
statue to the city’s renovated Place Mage but
the artwork was too fragile for the task.
La Déesse, made in plaster by José Clara in
1909, is kept in the Musée des Augustins
but is so severely damaged that it cannot be
put on public display.
The mairie did not want to disappoint the
community, so it opted to make an exact
copy without damaging the original.
Toulouse firm IMA Solutions, which
installs 3D interactive and multi-

media works worldwide, including in the
Acropolis Museum in Athens, the Louvre
in Lens, and London’s British Museum, was
brought in and decided to make a detailed
3D scan, then carve a new statue with a
robot sculptor.
IMA Solutions director Benjamin Moreno
said: “It wasn’t the first time we had scanned
a statue, but it was the first time we had
made a stone statue.”
After the 3D scan, a 4.2-tonne block of
Lavoux stone (a very finely grained white
sandstone) was carved to rough shape by a

THE opening of a huge new
bookshop in Paris recently
made national press headlines
due to its rarity and raised questions about the mixed fortunes
of librairies around the world.
Ici Librairie’s owners AnneLaure Vial and Del­phine Boué­
tard are trade veterans who met
while working at now-closed
Virgin Megastore in Paris.
They say that experience has
given them three key strategies
to succeed: a large floor area
(500m2) with 40,000 books
arranged in modular style with
mobile furniture to make comfortable customer areas; an
in-store speciality cafe; and regular author events to make it a
centre of cultural life in the area
around Boule­vard Poissonnière.
Ms Vial said she is “delighted
and very excited that our dream
is finally reality.”
Between 2011 and 2014, however, Paris lost one in 10 of its
bookshops.
Across France they are often
few and far between, with
supermarkets such as Leclerc
often the only booksellers – if
the store has a “media” section.
It is not all bad news. In Paris,
La Hune – founded in 1949 and
key to the “Left Bank spirit” –
reopened in November following renovation after a fire.
Brentano’s, opened in 1895

Lang’s Law has kept stores going
PRICES of new books in France are governed by law, with
the Loi Lang (named after 1980s culture minister Jack
Lang) saying that publishers set the price and this cannot
be discounted by more than 5%.
Similar arrangements exist elsewhere and, until the
1990s, the UK had the Net Book Agreement. The Loi Lang
is exceptional for the level of government involvement and
it has survived many legal challenges in European courts.
Initially seen as good for independent bookshops, as it
stops aggressive pricing from large chains, it led to a large
increase in the number and variety of publishers.
But it is now criticised because publisher prices are too
low and the average 6% profit margin is not enough when
taxes and shop rents have shot up.
near l’Opéra, specialises in
English language books, usually
from US publishers. It shut in
2009 before reopening with a
smaller area for books.
Manager Bruno Giambona
said: “We have had to adapt and
are no longer a pure bookshop.
“Books occupy just 60m2 out
of 200, and we only survive
thanks to sales of stationery,
cards, and souvenirs.”
He admitted the accountants
wanted to end book sales.
“Here, in Paris on the main
shopping streets, rents have
shot up due to demand from
groups and chain stores which
you find everywhere in Europe,”
he said.
“There are few independent
shops and the 6% margin on

books, if you are lucky, is not
enough to sell on their own.”
In Poitiers, similar pressures
of high rents, increasing staff
costs and online competition
bear down on the town centre’s
only remaining bookshop, La
Belle Aventure.
Owner Christine Drugmant
set up a cooperative to try to
ensure its future after she
retires. She likes “the joining of
clients, employees, publishers,
suppliers and local associations
and authorities around this love
of solid paper books”.
She said: “French people love
books and created, thanks to
laws from [1980s minister] Jack
Lang over pricing, a system
unique for the number and
diversity of books published.

Ici Librairie has just opened
But, unless something is done, a
key part, the independent
lib­rairie, will be a thing of the
past. We need to unite people
around books.”
Not all regional bookshops
are at risk.
A key factor is whether they
own their premises – as is the
case with Mollat in Bordeaux,
which covers 2,700m2 over several stores in the city centre but
also has a large and active
online business.
The Salle des Machines bookshop in Marseille is in a cooperative of associations working in an old tobacco factory
site seeking to improve the area.
Sitting above an upmarket
cafe, it is now going strong and
is a key part of the project.

The original
La Déesse
robot sculptor in steps of about 1cm, before
being hand-finished.
Mr Moreno said: “It took five weeks, and
now we have a stone replica of how the
statue would have looked when it was first
carved, because apart from being cracked,
the original has bits missing. We did it
without touching the original and, now it
has been scanned, it can be reproduced in
any material, including plastic or wood.”
The new statue has been well received. Mr
Moreno said: “People are pleased. It’s what
they voted for. It’s become quite a landmark.”

Stand up for historic
forests... or face a
degraded wasteland
FORESTRY workers have taken
to the streets to raise awareness
of the “dangerous industrialisation” of woodland.
France has 169,000km2 of
forest – the fourth largest area
in Europe – but workers from
the Office National des Fôrets
are concerned about ecological
damage caused by exploitation.
One march organiser, Philippe
Berger, said: “What we are seeing with the forests now is
similar to what happened with
agriculture in the 1980s.
“There is increasing industrialisation, with larger and more
powerful machines, the buyingout of small forests by large
groups, and a lack of concern
about the ecological effects of
exploitation.”
Mr Berger and other workers
organised marches to call for
laws to simplify and limit forest
exploitation and for more state
officials to control them.
Numbers of ONF agents have
fallen from 14,000 in the 1980s
to around 8,500 today, when the
forestry resource is at its largest.
The marches from the south
and east, home to the biggest
state forests, met in the centre
of France at St Bonnet Tronçais,
Allier, to plan a manifesto to
call for elected officials to act to
save the forests and limit the
actions of private companies.

Until the last couple of years the
amount of land classed as forest
had been rising steadily, but Mr
Berger said that has changed.
“The increase was mainly due
to farmers abandoning land
where they could not use
machines. Now they have used
most of the flat land and are
starting to look to expand into
forested areas.
“If France is to have forests
with management close to the
ground, the state has to put
more resources into our work.”
He said it was like Quebec,
where control of forests was
taken out of state hands and
given to private companies:
“There are whole swathes of
what used to be well-managed
forest which are now wastelands with very degraded soil.
“We absolutely do not want a
similar situation in France.”
Concerns have also been
raised about changes in the
Landes forest, the largest continuous forest in Europe, which
was created in the 19th century.
“There used to be an 80 to 90year cycle to grow maritime
pines, which has now been
reduced to 35 years by clear
stripping whole areas, replanting quickly and using very large
amounts of fertiliser,” he said.
“This is obviously changing
the soil and alarming scientists.”

Pyrenees bears
‘in perfect health’

Lille is to introduce a “trial
shop” system for budding
entrepreneurs, allowing them
to test business ideas in vacant
units in the centre of town for
up to a year.
Business owners will get
access to a prime location at a
low rental price, and can
receive a grant for costs, or an
interest-free loan for the site.
An initial six-month lease can
be extended to a year.

Two brown bears released
into the wild in the Pyrenees in
early October are “in perfect
health” on the French side of
the mountains, according to
the Office National de la
Chasse et de la Faune Sauvage.
The two females, which have
GPS collars “moved around a
lot” in their first few weeks in
their new territories. A total 43
bears now live in the wild in
the Pyrenees, officials said.

Public opinion shifts
away from nuclear

Call for €1 tax on
online shop delivery

More than 50% of the French
public are against the country’s
continuing reliance on nuclear
power, according to a study.
Five years ago, 67% of the
population were in favour of
nuclear power, but now – as
renewable energy systems
improve – 53% of those polled
by Odoxa were against the
continued use of nuclear
reactors to generate electricity.

Mayors have called for a €1
tax on each parcel delivered to
people’s doorsteps, with the
money raised going to support
local shops.
The €1 tax – dubbed the
fiscalité locale commerciale
équitable – would apply to
every online shopping parcel
delivered to your door. More
than 500 million parcels were
delivered in France last year.

Record pay days
for French bosses

E-scooter scheme
halted after month

Bosses of large companies in
France are taking home record
levels of pay – an average of
€3.8million a year.
All forms of payment, including salary, annual bonus,
tokens, perks, stock options,
gifts related to their role and
other forms of remuneration,
were taken into account in a
study by finance firm
Proxinvest. Fixed salaries have
risen by 3%, variable annual
wages by 6%, and perks by 6%.

An electric scooter-share
service in Bordeaux was suspended just one month after it
was launched – and shortly
after France banned electric
foot scooters from pavements.
Operator Lime said it had
stopped its service and pulled
its scooters off the streets to
allow time for a consultation
with city officials over a
“sustainable framework” after it
launched the service without
prior arrangement.

MEPs vote against
single-use plastics
A DIRECTIVE that will ban
the use of single-use plastic by
2021 has been voted in by the
European Parliament.
The directive, which is aimed
at items such as cotton buds,
straws, and disposable cutlery,
was passed by 571 votes to 53,
and has been welcomed as “an
enormous step forward”.

Drivers warned of
‘€50 bill’ scam
Drivers have been warned
to watch out for a scam in
which a fake €50 note is left on
windscreens. When motorists
get out to check it, leaving the
motor running, thieves steal
their car. Police advise drivers
to check windscreens before
they get in their vehicles – and
never to leave a car unattended
with its engine running.

December 2018

Mechanical
giants roam
Toulouse

TOULOUSE was invaded for four days in
November by a giant spider and a 46-tonne
Minotaur – and visitors and locals loved it.
An estimated 600,000 people flooded the
centre of the Pink City to see the incredible
beast perform the Gardien du Temple

Curfew imposed
after car fires
A curfew has been imposed
on children in a town in
Saône-et-Loire following a
spate of car fires.
Youths under 18 must be at
home between 10pm and 6am,
according to the curfew decree
issued in Montceau-les-Mines.
Police patrols have been
supported by reserves from
the CRS.

Soldiers buried 101
years after they died
The bodies of two Australian
First World War soldiers were
buried at a military cemetery
in Pas-de-Calais the day after
the Armistice centenary – 101
years after they were killed in
May 1917.
Privates James L Rolls and

Hedley R. MacBeth, who were
with the 24th Battalion
(Australia), died when the
underground bunker they were
resting in after a day of fighting was hit by a shell. Their
descendants attended the ceremony at Quéant war cemetery.

spectacular, all accompanied by live music. The
event marked the grand opening of a cultural
venue in the city, La Halle de La Machine.
Officials said the tourist office was twice as
busy as normal, while hotel occupancy rates
were around 90% for the four days.

Photo: Tango7174 / CC BY-SA 4.0

Shop trials to stop
city centre decline

The Connexion

connexionfrance.com
Photo: James Harrington

10 News in brief

Time changes for
warning siren tests
The French have long been
used to hearing warning sirens
at noon on the first Wednesday
of the month – but for a brief
period there will be a change
in the timings, according to the
Ministry of the Interior.
During an unspecified test
period for the new software,
warning sirens will sound at
11.45am in the northern band
of the country, at noon in the
central band, and at 12.15pm
in the south.

Postie could not find chateau
Letters and packages often go astray – but one parcel that was
returned to sender due to an incomplete address was reposted
with a waspish note.
The redelivery note from the sender read: “The Château de Blois
[pictured] has not moved since construction started in the 13th
century. It is also one of the most well-known chateaux in France
(except, clearly, for your delivery person).”
Over the years, the chateau has been the residence of seven
kings and 10 queens of France. It is hard to miss, with its 564
rooms, including 100 bedrooms. For the record, the full address is
Château de Blois, 6 Place du Château, 41000 Blois, Loir-et-Cher.

‘Spiderman of Paris’
becomes French

December 2018

News in brief 11

connexionfrance.com

Balcony falls on building collapse protestors
Photo: Google Maps

The Connexion
The Malian man who climbed
the outside of a building to save
a four-year-old child dangling
off a fourth-floor balcony has
been made a French citizen.
Mamoudou Gassama, dubbed
“Spiderman” for his heroic act,
was an illegal immigrant at the
time. He received his naturalisation document at a ceremony
at the prefecture of Seine-SaintDenis in Bobigny, just over a
year after he arrived here. He
will now complete an internship with the Paris fire service.

January

FRANCE’S ENGLISH-LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER

Your practical Q&A

n How can I future-proof
my finances in 2019?

‘Unknown face’ of
WW1 will evolve

n Is it OK to use a British
speedo on my motorbike?
n Is subsidence covered
by home insurance?

The rundown buildings on rue d’Aubagne before they collapsed, killing eight people

On track for roll-out
of hydrogen trains

Taxman to watch
Google Maps plan to
social media activity show camera sites

Hydrogen-powered
trains will be tested on four
lines in New Aquitaine, MP
Michel Delpon has confirmed.
The trains will operate
on the Bordeaux-Soulac,
Angoulême-Saintes-Royan,
Bordeaux-Bergerac-Sarlat,
and Bordeaux-PérigueuxLimoges lines. The trains will
be operational by 2022.

Tax officials plan to monitor
social media accounts in a
crackdown on fraud, Public
Accounts Minister Gérald
Darmanin has revealed.
The Commission nationale
de l’informatique et des libertés
has yet to give the green light
for the plan, but social networks are examined to build
cases in criminal investigations.

Photo: François Le Berre / Accessible Pour Tous / Twitter

A DIGITAL image made up of
thousands of photographs from
World War One, revealing the
“unknown face” of the conflict,
will evolve as more pictures
are added to the database that
produced it.
A computer algorithm
was developed to create the
composite (above), which
was officially unveiled on the
centenary Armistice Day by the
Historial de la Grande Guerre
in Péronne, in the Somme.

The search was halted for 24 hours after neighbouring buildings showed signs of collapsing.
Xavier Cachard – a member of the conseil
regional – resigned after being identified as the
owner of no 65 rue d’Aubagne. Prosecutors also
searched offices in City Hall, and at the headquarters of Marseille Habitat, which owned one
of the abandoned properties.
Interior Minister Christophe Castaner has
ordered a citywide building-by-building audit.

Bus driver orders passengers off
after they ignore wheelchair user
A Parisian bus driver who took the unusual decision to order all
of his passengers to leave the bus to allow a wheelchair user to get
on has said he did it because “no one was moving”.
Wheelchair-user François Le Berre (above), who has multiple
sclerosis, could not get on the bus in the capital’s 17th arrondissement because none of the passengers would get out of the way.
Buses in the capital usually have only one or two places where
a wheelchair can go, and other passengers should give priority to
them by moving and allowing a user to get on.
The driver said “Terminus! Everyone off!”, and made all the
passengers leave the vehicle. He then went to Mr Le Berre and said:
“You can get on, and the others can wait for the next bus.”
Mr Berre said: “No one wanted to move despite the access ramp.
The RATP driver quickly intervened. He got up and said ‘Everyone
off ’. Everyone did it, but some people did grumble a bit.”
A tweet describing the incident from an account named “Accessible Pour Tous” – a disabled support network – has since been liked
and retweeted thousands of times and has received almost 4,000
comments, most of which congratulate the driver.
“I believe there is still a little justice for people in wheelchairs,
even if it is rare in Ile-de-France,” Mr Le Berre said later.
He said the driver told him that anyone on the bus might need a
wheelchair one day. None of the driver’s family members is
disabled but “it was just a matter of civic-mindedness”.

Speed cameras and real-time
information on accidents could
become alerts on Google Maps
in France, helping drivers who
use the online service to
navigate the country’s roads.
The roll-out of the service
has yet to be released, but tech
news service Android Police
began reporting changes in the
code of Google Maps in June.

Concern over birth deformity
clusters in three departments
The number of children
confirmed as being born
without arms in the Ain
department has risen to 18.
About 150 children a year
are born with physical
deformities in France, but
the size of the cluster in the
department, as well as two
others in Brittany and Pays
de la Loire has prompted a
national investigation.
The defect is known
medically as transverse
upper limb agenesis
(agénésies transverses du
membre supérieur, or
ATMS, in French).
This means the hands, and
sometimes the forearm,
have failed to develop
properly while the foetus
was developing in its
mother’s womb.
All the children identified
so far in the eastern department were born between
2009 and 2014, and within a
few kilometres of each
other, according to local
register, le Registre des
Malformations en RhôneAlpes (Remera).
According to Remera, the
number of babies affected

by the deformities is 50
times higher than normal in
such a small area, leading
them to suspect an external,
environmental problem as
the cause.
Elsewhere, parents in one
town in Morbihan are
taking part in a study
after four babies were born
without arms between 2011
and 2013.
A third cluster, in Loire
Atlantique, where a number
of children were born with
similar deformities between
2007 and 2008, is also being
investigated.
The cause of the deformities and why babies born
with them have clustered in
certain areas remains a mystery, officials have said,
despite claims from a number of environmentalists
that pesticides could be the
origin.
Authorities have insisted
that, at this stage of the
investigation, no evidence
supports these claims.
The inquiry aims to discover whether genetic,
physical or environmental
causes are to blame.

n How much spare diesel
or petrol am I allowed to
keep in my car?

PLUS... The CRS

What is the role of
France’s riot police?
Photo: Brigitte Breuillac/MSF

A balcony collapsed on Marseille residents
as they marched in protest against the state of
the city’s dilapidated buildings, leaving three
people with minor injuries.
The march was organised after eight people
died when two rundown buildings collapsed
on rue d’Aubagne in the Noailles district of the
city. Marseille city council rehoused 100 residents from nearby buildings and said heavy
rain might have contributed to the collapse.

n Can non-residents use
CESU scheme to pay for
domestic workers?

War zone medic
INTERVIEW: The selfless life of a
Médecins sans frontières surgeon
+ In praise of Unesco’s Paris HQ
+ The legacy of Louis Pasteur
+ Cook in style... like a Ritz chef
+ Becoming a kids’ book illustrator

Skiing for beginners...

How to pick a resort
+ Christian Dior’s country pad
+ The new face of brocante
+ Why France loves olive oil

These and many more practical tips and topics
about life in France. Don’t miss out on a copy:

subscribe
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at your home. Only €49 to a French address

www.connexionfrance.com

Call Nathalie on 06 40 55 71 63

12 Heritage

connexionfrance.com

by NICK INMAN
IT IS the name that’s so endearing.
Chateau d’eau sounds so much more
dignified than the common English
term “water tower”. But it’s not just
that. It’s the huge variety and versatility of these structures that
characterise the French landscape.
There are an estimated 16,000 of
them, either still in use or serving
purposes other than the storage and
supply of water. Some have been
converted into homes or holiday
accommodation, exhibition spaces
and tourist information offices.
Wherever you are, there always
seems to be one not far away, on a
ridge, mound or hilltop.
They are distinctive landmarks and
some have even been adopted as icons
of a particular town or city.
They come in a bewildering number
of shapes: cylinder, Martini glass,
champagne cork, globe on a stalk,
parabolic curves, hourglass, chanterelle mushroom and many others.
Most are, by their nature, conspicuous but some are hidden from view
on a wooded hillside and are noticed
only when you hear the sound of
flowing water.
Many of them are starkly, unpretentiously modern but more than a
dozen have been classified as ancient
monuments. All form part of France’s
industrial heritage.
Even the oldest are relatively recent
constructions, dating back to the 19th
century, but all are testament to an
ancient heritage.
The Romans are credited with building the first domestic water systems,
including reservoirs close to or just
above ground level, as can be seen in
many excavated villas and towns.
In the middle ages, the skills of
water management were preserved by
the Islamic civilisation, still visible in
southern Spain. It was only much later
that Western Europe returned to the
idea of creating collective systems to
supply running water to homes.
The expression chateau d’eau, a
translation of the Latin castellum
aquae, was first used in 1704 to
describe a reservoir raised above the
ground. However, it wasn’t until the
building of the railways that water

More than a dozen
have been classified as
ancient monuments.
All form part
of France’s heritage

Many of the 16,000 landmark chateaux d’eau dotted around France have been turned into works of art

France’s most interesting water towers
Fontaine du Chateau d’Eau,
Montmartre, Paris
Elegant octagonal structure built in
1835, now headquarters of a wine
society.

Mauguio (Hérault)
Round tower rising from the castle
mound in the centre of the “post
romantic” garden, the Jardin De La
Motte. It now serves as a viewpoint.

Houdan (Yvelines)
A medieval castle keep transformed
into a water cistern in 1880.

Phare de la Méditerranée,
Palavas-les-Flots (Hérault)
Massive structure rising to 43m high
which was turned into a business
centre in the early years of the new
millennium.

Issoudun (Indre)
Brightly coloured rectangular water
tower painted by an artist to look
like a giant children’s toy.
Lagraulet-du-Gers (Gers)
A small water tower, brightly painted
with murals and converted into a
self-catering gite sleeping seven.
Luçon (Vendée)
Highly unusual late Art Nouveau
water tower and electricity power
station dating from 1912-13.

Peyrou, Montpellier (Hérault)
Perhaps France’s
most famous
chateau d’eau which
stands on the promenade of the same
name. Built in 1768
and adorned with
Corinthian columns.
It is, or at least was,
fed by an aqueduct.

Phalsbourg (Moselle)
Now a self-catering gite sleeping two
or three people 10m above ground,
and reached by 53 steps.
Philolaos, Valence (Drôme)
A giant example of modern art
named after the Greek sculptor who
designed it. It consists of two white
towers 52m and 57m high.

Photos: Pierre Selim / CC BY 3.0

“

tanks spread through France. Steam
locomotives had an unquenchable
thirst and many of the oldest chateaux
d’eau stand along railway lines.
Into the 20th century, most people
in France were still fetching their
water from the local river or spring,
or pumping it out of wells.
In 1930, 23% of communes had
running water. In 1945, 70% of rural
communes still lacked mains supply.
From the 1950s onwards, there was
a massive programme of building
water towers.
Today, many communes are proud
of their chateaux d’eau. They are celebrated as distinguishing features, as
well as being reminders of the benefits
of modernity.
Every chateau d’eau functions in the
same way. When the consumer opens
a tap down below, the pressure drop
causes the water to flow. The tank is
topped up by pump at the water
collection or filtration station.
Normally, a chateau d’eau will contain
enough water to keep the supply constant for 12 or 24 hours, or to ensure
there is a reserve in case of fire.
Chateaux d’eau are not often found
in the cities because the higher
demand from a higher density of
population is better served by
pumping than by gravity.
A relatively recent idea is to decorate
what would otherwise be something
dull or jarring with an original mural.
Many chateaux d’eau, therefore, are
painted with designs that refer to the
local identity, act as welcome signs for
the tourist office, or reflect some
mainstay of the region’s economy.
No wonder that the country’s
chateaux d’eau have drawn bands of
enthusiasts to catalogue and study
them. Website chateau.deau.free.fr,
created by Roger Iribarren, is a
compendium of reports, pictures and
research that answers almost every
question on the subject.
One good thing about chateaux
d’eau is they are always conspicuous
and accessible.
And even if you can’t get to the top
– most are closed to the public but a
few have panoramic viewing
platforms – you are guaranteed a
good view from the bottom.
Claude Miqueu, chairman of the
board of regulation for the Comité
National de l’Eau (National Water
Commission) said: “France’s chateaux
d’eau have evolved, along with the
communes, and adapted to the
contours of the territory.
“Today, this inheritance has become
a rich part of our heritage, still
technologically relevant while new
techniques of water distribution are
developed.
“They acquired new value as they
are adapted for other uses, such as
accommodation and tourism.”

December 2018
Photos: Nick Inman

Chateaux d’eau...
from the plain
simple to the
castles in the air

The Connexion

Romorantin-Lanethenay
(Loir-et-Cher)
The cutest, if not the most frivolous,
chateau d’eau in France, this faux
Chinese pagoda is in a park.
Sélestat (Alsace)
Attractive tower, 50m high, topped
by a tank containing 500 cubic
metres of water. It was built in the
middle of town in 1906 in a vaguely
neo-Romanesque style using yellow
and red bricks.

The Connexion

December 2018

connexionfrance.com

‘Franco-British’ novelist
and journalist Tatiana de
Rosnay talks to Samantha
David about Brexit, Paris,
her long, bumpy road to
overnight success
– and why writers have to
take a stand
SARAH’s Key author Tatiana de
Rosnay says success did not come
easily for her. And when it did come,
it was a struggle.
She attracted both fans and haters while also coping with teenage
children who weren’t that keen on
having a famous mum.
She told Connexion: “I lead the life
of an ordinary person, with my ups
and downs, just like anybody else.
The only difference is I have a lot of
imagination.”
There can be no doubt she has put
that imagination to good use as a
novelist, journalist and screenwriter.
Sarah’s Key was made into a film
with Kristin Scott Thomas, and her
biography of Daphne du Maurier,
Manderley Forever, resulted in all of
du Maurier’s books being republished
in France.
But she said: “Don’t forget that my
first success, Sarah’s Key, was the
seventh or eighth book I’d had
published. I was already 45, so it was a
difficult struggle. I was a mum like
anyone else and my job wasn’t very
important to my kids. It wasn’t easy,

and nor was the huge success of
Sarah’s Key. They didn’t like people
talking about their mum. They were
teenagers at that point and they found
it difficult having teachers at school
mentioning the book.
“It took some adjustment, and I had
to learn to draw the line between my
private and my professional life. It’s a
bit of the old French saying ‘pour vivre
heureux, vivons cachés’ (to live
happily, live hidden).”
She said she was amazed at how
many people wanted to meet her
when her writing career took off.
Many want to be writers, and asked
her to read manuscripts. Others asked
if she can include them in her books.
“I also get people who want to tell
me how much they hate me. It’s not
frequent, but writers do get haters.”
She is particularly outspoken about
gay rights – her latest novel The Rain
Watcher is about overcoming homophobia within a family when the lead
character is coming out.
“I can’t tell you the amount of hatemail I got for defending mariage pour
tous. I even got handwritten hate
letters, and that hit home.
“But regardless of the hate, I think
writers should make a stand. I don’t
do feel-good books, I’m a feel-sad
writer. I tackle dark, deep stuff.”
Daphne du Maurier has always been
a major influence, she said. “Bookworming my way through her books
as a child was what made me want to
write, and the obsession with the
personalities of buildings and the
dark family secrets within their walls
comes directly from her.” Ms de

Rosnay, 57, was born in Paris, to a
French father and an English mother.
She grew up in France, Britain and the
US, and thinks of herself as
bicultural as well as bilingual. “I consider myself Franco-British, although
my official nationality is French.
“My mother believed because she
was born in Rome, she could not pass
her nationality on to her children.
Now, with Brexit, I don’t want to try.”
She described Brexit as depressing.
“I didn’t believe for one minute Brexit
was going to happen. We were all
shocked, just like when Donald
Trump was elected. I’m sad to see the
mess the Brexit vote has caused.
“Britain seems very divided and I
think, increasingly, people are
unhappy and want to vote again, but
some are convinced Brexit is the
answer – which is a disaster. It’s really
ruined England’s image for me.
“The killing of Jo Cox shocked me
intensely.”
She is even more sad as she loves
Britain, she said. “When I was studying at the University of East Anglia in
the mid-80s, you could walk around
wearing anything and nobody would
take any notice.
“It was refreshing, being able to
dress how you like, and the music was
so fascinating and different.
“Artists like The Cure and Bowie
and Depeche Mode were so creative,
they had what we call a ‘grain de folie’
(a grain of madness).”
On the other hand, she said she has
learned to be proud of being French.
“Paris and the rest of France are
different things. Paris is a country in

Photo: Charlotte Jolly-de Rosnay

I can see the Eiffel Tower
from my window – it
watches over me as I write

French Life 13

Author, journalist and
screenwriter Tatiana de
Rosnay beside the River
Seine in Paris, which plays
a key role in her new book,
The Rain Watcher
itself. I love living here because a
whole new generation of creative
people are emerging.
“I can see the Eiffel Tower from my
window and it’s like my friend. It
watches over me.”
The Rain Watcher is set in Paris
during a fictitious period of massive
flooding.
“When I started writing the book, I
didn’t realise how central nature
would be to the plot. I was interested
in the idea that if the Seine floods,
nothing can prevent it. Nobody can
prevent a storm, a hurricane, a flood.
“For centuries Parisians have taken
for granted they can control the Seine,
but as I was writing the book, it

flooded badly and just as the book
came out, it flooded again. We have to
realise that the Seine will flood again,
as badly as in 1910 and as in my book,
which is sobering, especially as I live
near the river. If Paris seriously floods,
it will be like the Titanic going down.
The city will have to be evacuated,
which will be hell.”
The US edition of The Rain Watcher
has been published and is available
online, while the UK edition comes
out in March.
Her coffee table book about artist
Tamara de Lempicka (illustrated with
photographs by daughter Charlotte
Jolly de Rosnay) was published by
Éditions Michel Lafon in October.

Art of water divining in France is local sourciery
by BRIAN McCULLOCH

Diviner Laurent Cassé at work

WATER divining is an ancient art but
the local sourcier is still in demand –
and these days can often be found on
the internet.
Most towns and villages have one
and there might also be a magnétiseur,
or faith healer, who specialises in pain
relief. They could be the same person.
In the past, the only way to get to
know who they were was by word of
mouth. Now, with the internet, the
search is easier.
Sourcier Laurent Cassé, who lives
and works in the Gers, has a website
and videos on YouTube. He told
Connexion he did not believe in water
divining until he saw a sourcier at
work, and tried himself.
“I was surprised by the reaction of
the baguettes (divining rods), which
genuinely seemed to move by themselves,” he said.
“I wanted to learn more and so
started years of training to understand
the movement of the baguettes and
how to interpret what they mean.
“In the old days, the sourcier would
be called in to determine where the
well should be dug before the house

was built – but also to ensure that,
when the house was built, it was not
over an underground current, which
is bad for sleep patterns. Now it is the
other way round. Houses are built
anywhere, and afterwards people call
in a sourcier to find out if there are
underground currents.
“Often just moving a bed a couple of
metres so it no longer straddles a
current is enough to let people sleep.”
There are now training courses to
learn how to become an effective
sourcier but Mr Cassé said many of
them try to explain in scientific terms
the inexplicable. “I find the most
effective sourciers are those who
trained themselves,” he said.
For finding water he says his success
rate is 90%, similar to universitytrained hydrologists. “Borers and well
diggers consult me before starting
work,” he said. “I email my findings
before they start work so everyone
knows if I am right or wrong.
“Even when I am wrong, I get repeat
business because people know it is not
an exact science.”
He described the sensation of crossing water as an “ill feeling” similar to
vertigo, and believes involuntary

muscle contractions make the rods
move. “Everybody feels the slight
illness but sourciers have trained
themselves to interpret it. It is why
people sleep badly if there is a water
current under the bed.”
There is no formal list of sourciers in
France. Many are known locally, while
a few, like Mr Cassé, have websites.
He said he understands the sceptics
who doubt sourciers’ ability to find
water, as he thought it was trickery
too, until his own experience.
“I think the reason is found in some
of the explanations you hear to
explain the phenomena. If you try to
use science to explain it, there is
already a problem because there is
nothing scientific about it.
“Science relies on being able to
reproduce experiments. But the techniques of a sourcier depend on much
more than them and their techniques.
The result is the fruit of a conjunction
of many parameters which escape
most people, including the sourcier.”
He also does some work as a
magnétiseur (specialising in easing
pain by sensing a person’s vibrations
and trying to change them) and as a
coupeur de feu (helping the pain of

burns to go away, often using old
prayers and spells) and says this came
about as a result of his sourcier work.
“It comes from the same source,
working with the immaterial. I lay my
hands on people and sense their
vibrations. The difference with water
is that working as a sourcier I just
have to read the situation. To give
people therapy you have to try to
change the vibrations they give and
you cannot just do anything.
“It helps some people with the pains
associated with radiotherapy and to
cope with chemotherapy,” he said.
Mr Cassé charges a fee and expenses
to find water sources for boreholes.
Prices vary between €50 and €200.
He does not charge people disturbed
by flowing water under their beds.
Coupeurs de feu by rule do not take
money – and he follows this tradition.
While magnétiseurs operate outside
the health system in France, he said
the number of a coupeur de feu is
always available in hospital burns
units. “Some nurses in the units
practise coupeur de feu techniques but
do not talk about it. It is no longer
part of our culture, but it might come
back, as it has in Switzerland.”

14 Comment

December 2018

Simon Heffer, the renowned political commentator
and historian, turns his gaze to French politics

Nabila Ramdani is an award-winning

French-Algerian journalist who specialises
in French politics and the Arab world.
Her articles feature in the French national
press as well as internationally.
She is a regular columnist in The Connexion.

Simon Heffer is also a columnist for the Daily and Sunday Telegraphs

Fuel militants have
to change their ways
because a green new
world waits for no one
A DEATH and multiple severe injuries were the horrific consequences of
illegal road blockades by French car
owners protesting at rising fuel prices.
The nationwide toll during the main
day of action – November 17 – was
one run over and killed, up to 400
wounded and more than 282 arrested.
Grassroots militants calling themselves the gilets jaunes (yellow vests),
after the brightly-coloured safety tops
all motorists are obliged to keep in
their boots in France, were prepared
to risk all on a Saturday when the
country ground to a halt.
Beyond gambling with their very
existence on roundabouts and at
other busy junctions, some fought
running battles with riot police on
streets including the Champs-Élysées
itself. Serious trouble in Paris also
threatened President Emmanuel
Macron’s official home, the Élysée
Palace, where a sizeable mob had to
be held back by tear gas and batons.
Yes, petrol has gone up by 15 per
cent over the last year alone, and the
figure is 23 per cent in the case of
diesel. The cost for both at the pump
is more than €1.50 a litre – among
the highest in Europe. See page 2.
And yes, the blockages have wide
support too. Some polls commissioned by motoring organisations
show up to 80 per cent are in favour
of protests, while petitions against
fuel tax hikes are garnering more
than half-a-million signatures.
Demonstrators argue that those
living in the countryside, or in the
suburbs of major cities, have no other
choice but to use their cars because
of the lack of reliable public transport
links, and that they cannot afford
expensive alternatives.
But those who are presenting this
campaign as a political struggle
against an unfeeling ruling class that
is immune to the suffering of the
poor need to think again.
President Macron’s principal motivation for placing extra tax on fuel
was to open the road to the abolishment of all high-polluting cars.
Expressing his abject lack of sympathy for those involved in the
action, he said last month: “People
complaining about rising fuel prices
are the same ones who complain
about pollution and how their
children suffer.”
The goal of 2040 has been set as
the deadline for outlawing all petrol
and diesel vehicles and to replace
them with electrical ones, while big
cities are being even more ambitious.

The Connexion

connexionfrance.com

Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo has
pledged to get rid of all diesel cars by
2020, and she is also introducing
some of the toughest anti-car legislation in the capital’s recent history.
Last month saw her win a significant legal victory, as the Paris administrative court ruled that roads on the
historic and UNESCO-protected
Right Bank will be closed to traffic
permanently.
London Mayor Sadiq Khan is
among many in Britain who have
welcomed such French initiatives.
Commenting on the 2040 time limit,
he said: “This radical step shames the
timid and insufficient response
of our own government to the
health threat
posed by poor
air quality”.
Anybody
It’s all part of a
examining
green offensive
that Mr Macron Paris traffic
describes as an
jams at
“ecological tranalmost any
sition” for a
country that cur- time of the
rently depends
day or night
far too much on
will see
fossil fuels.
Meeting global hundreds
commitments
of single
mapped out by
the Paris Climate occupant
Change Accord
cars, many of
is also of parathem doing as
mount importance.
much to clog
Clean energy
of course comes up the streets
at a price, but
as the gilets
there are proposjaunes
als to provide
grants for those
who won’t be able to afford the new
types of cars. Electric and hybrid
vehicles are not the only suggested
options for the future, either. As in so
many other parts of the world, there
are currently far too many French
who rely on the internal combustion
engine for the most basic journeys.
Anybody examining Paris traffic
jams at almost any time of the day or
night will see hundreds of single
occupant cars, many of them doing
as much to clog up the streets as the
gilets jaunes.
The situation as it stands is unsustainable. Wholesale change is coming, and risking life and limb to
oppose it is as shortsighted as it is
extremely dangerous.

“

T

hey were touching pictures at
the centenary of the Armistice,
when Emmanuel Macron and
Angela Merkel held hands in a gesture of reconciliation between the
two former combatants.
Mr Macron looked both respectful
and a little proprietorial; respectful
because he knows who calls the shots
in Europe, but proprietorial because
he is a young head of state with a
future, whereas his German partner
is a head of government with, by her
own admission, mostly a past.
Days before the Armistice
commemorations, Mrs Merkel’s coalition suffered the latest of a series of
reverses in local elections.
That defeat prompted her to
announce she would stand down
from the leadership of her party, the
CDU, this December, but that she
planned to continue as Chancellor
until the end of her term in 2021:
though even colleagues think that an
ambitious plan, and she may be gone
before then.
But, of course, Mrs Merkel is not
merely the leader of Germany; she is
the leader of the EU. That is because
Germany is the most populous, and
more to the point the richest, country of the 28 currently in the bloc.
Does it, therefore, follow that whoever succeeds her, not necessarily as
CDU leader but as Chancellor, will
automatically assume the leadership
of the EU – or could it be taken by
Mr Macron, on behalf of France?
After all, that leadership is not a
constitutional office, it is leadership
by perception: Mrs Merkel has it de
facto rather than de jure.
It falls upon the head of state or
head of government within the
European Union to whom all others
naturally look to give a lead to the
Commission and those other institutions that either run or are central to
the European project – and that leader, for the last 13 years, has been Mrs
Merkel.
However, the sureness of touch that
won her such widespread respect in
the early years has been a little
flawed in the last year or two.
The main opposition in Germany is
now Alternative für Deutschland
(AfD), a hard-right party whose lease
of life appears to have been strengthened by Mrs Merkel herself.
Her unilateral decision to give a
million German (and, indeed, EU)
passports to refugees from the war in
Syria was widely criticised even by
people not on the hard right; but
AfD seized on it as an example of her
habit of acting without consultation
and without regard for the sensibilities of the German people.
There was already concern about
the way in which she had put the
resources of Germany at the disposal
of the EU for bailing out the indigent
government in Greece.
Aware of the difficulty this has
caused, European officials, earlier
this year, were keen to publicise a
statistic that Germany had made a
“profit” of €2.5billion on the loans it
had made to Greece.
“Profit” was another word for
“interest”, and the sum is small compared with the estimated €47.5billion
that the German taxpayer has poured
into Greece during its bailout pro-

Macron may
crave Merkel’s
EU crown – but
first he must
ask if France
can afford it

gramme, and which is yet to be
repaid.
Those figures are important,
because if, when he meets Mrs
Merkel, Mr Macron is eyeing up the
future vacancy for the de facto leadership of the EU, he needs to be
aware of what it takes – and what it
costs – to fulfil that role.
She has had this EU leadership not
merely because for most of the 13
years she has served as Chancellor
she had exhibited, for the most part,
a safe pair of hands; she has had the
leadership because she has controlled
the purse strings of the EU.
She has been, effectively, its lender
of last resort.
Before Mr Macron decides that he
wishes to become the focal point of
future European policy, he needs to
ask whether France can afford it.
France’s contribution to the
European Financial Stability Fund
has been in excess of €30billion, and
it has had about €1.6billion in interest payments.
However, the Greek bail out may
not be the last the EU has to manage,
and certainly not the last financial
crisis it will have to deal with –
events in Italy, whose budget the EU

“

Merkel has had the
leadership because
she has controlled the
purse strings of the
EU. She has been,
effectively, its lender
of last resort

has rejected, have without doubt yet
to reach their worst.
If France, where unemployment is
far higher than in Germany, and
where – unlike in Germany – the
economy is not helped by a currency
that is weak in relation to the nation’s
domestic economic performance –
wants to assume leadership of the
bloc once Mrs Merkel goes, it may
have to be prepared to put its hand
in its pocket rather more deeply.
What’s more, nobody believes the
Greeks will ever pay back the money
they owe – something Germany
would find painful to absorb, but
France could find deeply damaging.
Like Mrs Merkel, Mr Macron has a
hard right party as his main opponent too – the Rassemblement
National would express outrage at
any form of greater European integration, particularly an integration
that sent French taxpayers’ money to
other European nations where they
signally fail to collect their own
taxes.
When Mrs Merkel finally leaves the
Chancellery, Mr Macron will be the
more experienced leader of the
Franco-German couple, but his
country will still not have the economic clout of Germany.
For that reason Mrs Merkel’s successor – who, the way things are
going for the CDU, might not even
be from her party – will effortlessly
assume the reins of EU leadership.
Mr Macron would be wise to get to
know Annegret Kramp-Karrenbauer
– known in Germany as “miniMerkel”, and the Chancellor’s own
preferred successor – and Jens
Spahn, the health minister, who is
highly conservative and was a vocal
critic of Mrs Merkel over her passports handout.
Either is more likely to lead Europe
than he is: not because of any personal shortcomings, but because for
reasons of culture and population,
France still cannot match Germany’s
ability to create wealth.

The Connexion

December 2018

I’m there for you, whatever it takes

Moving to France brings many
changes, not least to family
relationships which will evolve
with distance... but for some,
such as Jill Foxley, the desire
to help care for a loved one
means long-range challenges

It is six years since my husband Simon
and I upped sticks to rural south-west
France. I always knew I would be returning to the UK reasonably often to help care
for my ageing mother and my first trip
back was four weeks after we moved.
Thus began a relationship with airports I
never expected, with more than 100 flights
between Bergerac and Stansted. Like
growing numbers of younger expats, we
return on a very regular basis.
There’s no doubt my mother is a lucky
lady. Born in London suburb Hillingdon in
1917, she married my father during the
Second World War and they moved to an
Essex farmhouse. My two sisters were born
11 and eight years before me so I spent
most of my early childhood running wild
with my best friend nextdoor, soaking up
her colourful Bohemian family life.
My mother knows she’s lucky but it’s still
not easy. She wants to remain in her home
until carried out in a box. Her GP calls her
Lazarus.
She is in pretty good health, apart from
being 101. Almost clapped out, she agrees.
One sister is retired and lives across the
road from her, the other is retired and lives
next door. Yes, no need to ask. I feel guilty.
Arguments start, tempers fray, relationships strain; ingrained behaviour forces
itself through all our relationships. On a
bad day it’s hard.
So my commuting has become a way of
life for us all. When I expected to be slowing down, I am working harder than ever,
with regular Ryanair trips to give my sisters a break, plus fitting in a full-time job.
My sisters bear the brunt of this daily.
It’s very stressful, the relentless knowledge their days are dictated by caring for
our mother for an unquantifiable number
of weeks, months or, dare I say it, years.
As bickering sisters, we are not pretty. It’s
hard for us all, and so much better when
we can all pull together.
Perhaps, though, it’s hardest for my
mother, who experiences frustrations, but
cannot now always communicate them.
Stepping into her house, my hectic life
goes into slow motion. Toilet visits need

assistance and take 10 minutes at least.
Meals, enjoyed one day, can be devil’s food
the next.
Every day is spent either in bed or sitting
in an armchair in front of tennis on the
TV, depending on how she feels, which is
mostly exhausted and sad.
Mummy has become thinner between
my visits. It’s not something my sisters
would notice as readily, as they see her
more often.
Changes in her behaviour become more
frequent and more exaggerated, switching
one minute to the next. Tears happen daily,
like the often childlike manifestations.
However, she’s not a child. She’s a fully
grown woman and as her mind comes and
goes, so does her physical ability. Some
days, for some moments, she is able to
walk a few steps with her two sticks.
On a bad day, everything has to be done
for her. And I mean everything. Often
now, it’s 24-hour care, seven days a week.
Today, during a new worrying spell, she
was trying to recite the 12 times table
while pulling at her sleeve for over an
hour. There’s the head nodding, too, which
goes on for hours. The Bitch Daughter
From Hell in me just wants to scream
“Don’t do the head thing!”, but of course I
don’t and I won’t.
Bowel movements assume monumental
importance, as does denture fixative.
Her frustration is immense; as is ours.
Seeing gnarled, arthritic hands struggling
with fiddly hearing aids and batteries, I
want to step in and help. Sometimes I do,

but others, I feel I am eroding her failing
independence even more.
No doubt, she’s a tough old bird. There
are urine and chest infections aplenty. It
was on my visit prior to her 100th birthday
celebrations when one of those reared its
head. Amazingly, as her fever peaked, the
frail and feeble centenarian found strength
to start running round her bedroom like a
five-year-old. A 100-year-old child.
Her eloquent lucidity confirms her as an
adult. Just today she was telling me of
happy times when she was the only female
civilian working at Bomber Command in
Uxbridge. Times when everyone was kind
to each other, as you never knew if it
would be your or your colleague’s or
neighbour’s last day.
Yesteryear so vivid; yesterday a mystery.
Her wish to get stronger increases with
her inability to do so. We know it’s not
going to end well but how much more
does she have to go through?
It’s the hardest thing in the world hearing
her begging to be released from her life.
Knowing you want it, too, floods guilt
through every blood vessel.
We hang on to the rarer and more
precious times when she is the mother I
recognise. Yet, despite her deepest wishes,
life is hanging on to her.
Perhaps packing her off into a care home
would have seen her off years ago, but
that’s not what she wanted.
Perhaps lesser care would have seen her
off earlier, but I couldn’t have lived with
myself if I had done that. I do it because I
love her without question and totally
unconditionally.
The stress and strain is enormous but I
would do nothing else.
One day the telephone call will come, or
I will walk into her bedroom and find she
has started The Big Sleep. Mummy will
have breathed her last.
Will I miss the ear-splitting TV volume?
Not a bit.
Will I feel guilty that I wanted to be
doing something else on those days she
needed me? Doubtless, but I hope I
remember I was there when I could be.
Will I yearn for just one more touch of
her wrinkled hands? You bet.
Will I cope? I presume I will have to.
Will remaining relationships that have
been tested to the limit and back restore
themselves? Who can say? But I know one
thing: life won’t be the same without her.
Until then my commute continues, out of
duty, responsibility and courtesy but most
of all for love and to say thank you.
Because now, Mummy, it’s my time to care
for you as you did for me.

Are we making a mountain out of parental equality?
As France debates
extending paternity
leave, Nick Inman
ponders equality rights

“What do you mean there is
no baby changing station in the
Gents? What am I supposed to
do if I am a man travelling alone
with a baby? Use the Ladies?
That’s discrimination.”
We have to stop overcomplicating this man-woman,
father-mother thing. We’re
human beings and we need to
treat each other with respect.
Many people have a problem
with the word “equality”. “How
can we be equal?” they ask,
“when we are not the same?”
There are obvious biological

differences, but beyond those
you have to contend with
endless exceptions – because
we are so varied.
We must avoid generalisations such as “men have got it
coming because of their bad
behaviour”, or “women should
be believed in court cases more
than men” (assertions made
recently in UK newspapers).
Equal does not mean identical; it means “doing as you
would be done by” and “each
according to their needs”.
As a man, I expect certain
rights and opportunities. If I
have them, who am I to deny
them to women?
Feminism is not just about
liberating women. It must also
be about liberating men from

Comment 15

connexionfrance.com

burdens of expectation placed
upon them.
All this applies to parents.
They should be free to choose
how they divide up or share
the duties associated with the
raising of a child. Often – but
not always – mothers and
fathers provide complementary
emotional functions in a family.
If a woman is entitled to
maternity leave as a new parent,
the father should be eligible for
the same. The Macron government is wrestling with the
implications of this. It fears that
giving fathers and mothers
equal rights to time off work
after a birth will stress the
economy, but accountancy
should never outweigh ethics.
A father can be just as active a

parent as a mother and society
should aid him, not stand in his
way. We may never get things
perfectly right but men and
women should champion each
other’s interests in solidarity.
Whether each of us has a
good or bad experience of
being a mother or father
depends on the attitudes of the
individuals around us.
All we can do is do our best.
That means we need to develop
interpersonal skills that are not
gender-dictated: empathy, listening and the ability to know
when and how to offer help.
Only when we have halfway
mastered these skills ourselves
can we pass them on to our
children who, we hope, will be
less confused than we are.

Les Routiers – the
dining concept that
is uniquely French
by ‘Ross Beef’
The point of a themed
restaurant is that its concept is
transferable and marketable.
But in France there is one
kind of dining experience that
just wouldn’t travel – those
small, independent roadside
eateries, les routiers.
Leave the autoroute and head
into rural France and from 12
until 2pm you’ll find arrays of
white vans, trucks and tractors
parked up outside inauspicious
restaurants.
We’re in south Normandy – a
largely agricultural area with
small towns between fields of
maize and grass pastures.
Halfway between two towns,
along a main road, there is an
unbranded, two-pump service
station with a couple of traditional stone houses either side.
Across the forecourt, a building with a large window and
glass door bears the sign Bar –
Tabac –
Restaurant.
Lunch is in full
swing and the
restaurant is
packed. Roofers,
builders, road
workers and
electricians sit
shoulder-toshoulder on
spindly chairs at
square tables arranged in rows
of three or four.
It’s la pause déjeuner in the
unofficial staff canteen of the
artisans, workers and drivers of
the area.
Behind the bar, opposite the
entrance, a woman acknowledges our presence. “C’est pour
manger,” I say, as she serves a
beer, gives change to a cigarette
customer and processes a
credit card transaction. “Allez
y,” comes the response, with
gesticulation. “Installez-vous.”
We find two places at the end
of a row, and “install” ourselves
among les ouvriers.
We exchange nods as the
waitress plonks a small bread
basket and bottles of red wine,
cider and water between us.
“Pour l’entrée nous avons
rillettes de porc, ou croissant au
jambon, et pour le plat escalope
à la normande, ou steak frites.”
In this male-dominated
arena, she seems to have everyone firmly under control with
a finely honed combination of
energetic efficiency, authority
and charm.
We opt for the savoury
croissant, with ham, cheese and
a white sauce, with the
escalope for the main course.
The starters arrive almost
instantaneously and are soon
devoured, being extremely
good – accompanied by a
couple of glasses of cloudy
cider, which we have managed
to keep within reach.
Our knives and forks are

unceremoniously removed
from our plates and placed on
the paper table-cloth in
readiness for the main course,
as the waitress clears our plates.
The escalope consists of a
flattened turkey breast sautéed
in butter, flambéed in calvados
and cooked in cider with
mushrooms and a reduced
cream sauce.
A glance along the table
reveals similar escalopes and
steak frites, as well as several
other dishes – some fish with
rice and a pork chop with
pasta, both with similarly
buttery appearances.
Crusty bread is ripped apart
and often being used to help
food on to the fork and mop
up sauce at the same time.
“Pour dessert c’est mousse au
chocolat ou crème brûlée.”
Varying size groups are starting
to leave le routier, often without paying for the meal. The
last of each group signs a little
book and
receives a yellow
copy of the page.
Companies
often pay for
their employees’
lunch and have
an account with
the establishment, such is the
importance
accorded to
the institutionalised French
déjeuner.
By this time the dining room
is mostly empty. The observation of our co-diners at close
quarters has slowed our own
departure and the task of clearing the detritus of 50 workers’
lunches has begun around us.
We opt for coffee. A stout
espresso arrives, the only
option being the number of
sugar cubes one adds from the
stainless steel receptacle placed
on the table.
And that’s the point. It’s
unpretentious. You’ll not find a
latte or macchiato here.
The reality is le routier is not
a concept restaurant at all. It
fulfils a primordial function
anchored in the French tradition of good simple food without embellishment. It’s not
haute cuisine with chic decor,
nor is it designed to be.
It is an oasis between work
and home with a community
and network of diverse manual
trades people sharing time in a
convivial atmosphere.
We pay the €24 bill, say our
au revoirs and cross the forecourt. Most of the vans and
trucks have gone, and with
them the soul of the restaurant.
It’s the clientele and their
upholding of French culinary
traditions that make the place
what it is, and that’s why les
routiers, dedicated to serving
the transitory gastronomic
requirements of the French,
wouldn’t work anywhere else.

16 Letters

The Connexion

connexionfrance.com

December 2018

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January
Janvier
The view from Tour Montparnasse, a 210metre
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viewing platform on the
top, is deemed by many
as the best in Paris.
The Eiffel Tower’s observation deck comes close,
and draws seven million
visitors a year – but, obviously, one cannot see the
Eiffel Tower from it.
Tour Montparnasse was
completed in 1973 and
was France’s tallest building until 2011, when its
crown was taken by the
Tour First in La Défense.
Many noteworthy landmarks are clearly visible
from the top, including
the Dôme des Invalides.
This gold-topped former
church in the centre of
the Les Invalides complex of military buildings
stands 107metres high.
Inspired by St Peter’s
Basilica in Rome, it
houses the body of Napoleon. He died on May 5
1821, aged 51, but was
not entombed here until
April 2 1861.

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Reader photo above: Alison Howells

Monday
Lundi

Tuesday

Wednesday

Mardi

Mercredi

FR Bank Holiday
New Year’s Day
Jour de l’An

7

Raymond

8

Lucien

Jeudi

Friday
Vendredi

Saturday
Samedi

5

3

4
Odilon

9

10

11

12

2
Basile

1

Thursday

Alix

Geneviève

Guillaume

Edouard

Pauline

Tatiana

Sunday
Dimanche

6

13

Yvette

15

16

17

18

19

Marius

Sébastien

21

22
Vincent

23
Barnard

24
François de Sales

25
Convention

26
Paule

Angèle

29
Gildas

30
Martine

Marcelle

Agnès

28

Thomas
d’Aquin

Photo: Davric

Puzzler

Marcel

??

THE French Foreign
legion’s official march is
called ’Le Boudin’ – the name
comes from the sausage-shape
of their blanket when attached
to their backpacks (left).
Which Ardennes town is known
for its boudin blanc?
Answer on the Back Page

Roseline

Prisca

de Paul

20

27

31

“

January 6
Epiphany

Sec janvier
Heureux fermier
Dry January
Happy farmer

non-existent. The process for
me has so far taken nine
months and still no licence.
The solution for my foreign
travel problem is to apply for
an international licence and to
do this you need... your current
licence. I would advise anyone
wishing to change their licence
to get an international drivers
permit before they surrender
their actual driving licence.
Jon Lethbridge
Maine-et-Loire

I SENT off my application in
May this year and thanks to
the email contacts you made
available I got an email reply in
September which confirmed
that the recorded delivery of
my application had arrived at
the office in Nantes.
Since then I have heard no
more and am still waiting to be

processed. But with time rapidly running out for these driving licences to be processed,
how do we obtain a British
International Driving Permit
(IDP) so that at least we are
effectively still allowed to drive
in France and the rest of
Europe after Brexit?
Can we get assurance from
the French authorities that as
long as our applications for
exchange have been acknowledged we can carry on driving
on our UK licence even after
March 29, 2019?
Anna Brunsdon
By email
Editor’s note: The prefecture at
Nantes admits it has not yet
been able to deal fully with the
backlog but hopes to clear it ‘as
soon as possible.’ It is prioritising demands where the licence
is expiring. Officials previously

told us that if you have an
attestation de dépôt, which lasts
12 months, you can drive while
waiting for the new licence.
It says gendarmes are aware of
the delays and should be
understanding if someone is
driving on a recently-expired
licence while waiting for an
attestation.
We are not aware this would
change, even in the case of a
no-deal Brexit, but the prefecture did not respond to request
for clarifications on this. As for
obtaining an IDP, a document
which should usually accompany a non-EU/EEA licence in
France, the UK does not issue
them to people without a UK
address. An alternative, should
it become necessary, is a sworn
translation of the licence.
See page 18, about car insurance during a swap.

Mélaine

14
Nina

Rémi

HERE is an update to your
article on delays when
exchanging a UK driving
licence (Prefecture explains permis delays, September).
My application was received
in Nantes on January 11, 2018.
I received a letter saying my
application had been registered
on August 7 and with a request
to send in my licence. Nantes
received my licence on August
14 by recorded letter. I now
wait but contacted them (using
the email you gave: cert-pc-epe44-usagersepe@interieur.gouv.
fr) to try to speed the process
up as I need a licence for travel
outside of France.
I have now been advised in
an email that they are currently
dealing with applications
received in December 2017!
So the improvement you
report in your article is

Post-Christmas diets are put on hold
until after the last Galette des Rois
has been eaten. The cake marking
epiphany is either flaky pastry with
almond paste or a brioche-style loaf
with candied fruit. Whoever gets a
slice with a small porcelain figurine
becomes King or Queen for the day.

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Mulch ado...
In response to November’s
Garden Diary, and following
this summer’s drought, I concur with all recommended
plants suggested and would
like to add Nepeta Sp (catmint), which I have found
thrives during dry conditions.
I am now dividing my existing stock to put elsewhere in
the garden. In addition, I only
watered pots and not flowerbeds.
All pruning and cutback of
plants was directly returned to
the ground as mulch in addition to the homemade compost. All plants have survived
and I have found the soil in
excellent order despite many
weeks without rain.
Jane Shaw
Tarn et Garonne

Seeing reds
I enjoyed your Around
France in Wine feature in the
November edition. However, I
took exception to one phrase
referring to “a few pale reds” to
describe the Cabernet franc
wines of Chinon, SaumurChampigny and so on. Worth
more than that, surely? And
the sweet wines of the Layon
Valley south of Angers are
world-class – indeed the
qualities of chenin blanc are
almost unique, not only for
Bonnezeaux but also for the
dry Savennières for example.
Jon North, Hérault

Netflix and skills in Watch out
English don’t add up at lights
Re: teaching languages in
France (November edition).
Until last term my wife (a UK
national) was an English teacher in state collège in the Gers.
What Alex Taylor was advocating for children to learn
English fluency seems ideal,
however I heard daily from my
wife about the admin reality.
Her rectorate decided that
Spanish would be taught in
parallel with English, as an
experiment. For example, when
learning “a table” the kids
would also see and learn “una
messa”. Admirable, you think.
Yes, it created more teaching
posts for the Spanish teachers
and put pressure on English,
Latin and Occitane teachers
who were fighting for their lost
teaching hours.
English was put on the
back-burner because “it is
easy”, the other language
teachers would say, just give
them a video and chill out.
But we all know that English
is only deceptively easy until
one screws it up.
The motivated children are
overwhelmed as to what is
expected from them and the
unmotivated ones make the
classroom hell.
I don’t have a solution but
here is my experience.
I was a secondary mod guy
who emigrated to work in

Bremen as a guest worker
many moons ago. They gave
me a two-year contract with a
proviso that I take and pass a
German exam after two years
in order to have a full-time
contract. They gave me a “one
to one” teacher to help.
My teacher quickly realised
that I did not know, from a
grammatical point of view, my
own mother tongue. She made
me dissect English literature
and taught me English grammar in German. Once I
mastered it, it was just a case of
building up my vocabulary. I’m
forever grateful to that teacher.
The German company then
seconded me to France. I
found French orthography and
pronunciation more difficult,
but my German grammar
lessons provided a basis to
become relatively competent in
writing and conversing.
It’s obvious that Germanic
speakers like the Dutch,
Scandinavians and Germans
grasp English faster due to
similarities in structure and
pop culture. Latin speakers
master homologue languages
faster than the northerners.
What counts at any age is:
motivation, basic grammar
grounding and social insertion
... not Netfix.
Jim Scott,
by email

They said it …

RE: the Article regarding
Traffic Radar Cameras
(November issue), I would like
to add the following.
It is not just speed cameras –
twice in a year I have been
caught “infringing” a “red”
traffic light. I do not believe I
did but it is a situation where it
is impossible to argue the contrary. The notice arrives 10 to
14 days after the offence, there
are no witnesses you can call,
and these cameras are not
advertised in the same manner
as most “speed trap cameras”.
I now have eight points due
to traffic light cameras, which I
would dispute, and am scheduled for a course to recuperate
some of them at a cost of €180.
There appears to be no flexibility – there used to be a small
percentage speedometerallowed error, but this appears
now not to be the case, similarly with amber lights.
A French acquaintance told
me he had received points for
the same offence and thought it
was because he had stopped
slightly ahead of the white line.
In future, even if I consider it
would be safer to carry on
through an amber, I will stop
and if someone behind cannot
cope with it, then let us hope
they are insured.
Tony Lea,
by email

We’re playing
“50 shades of brown”
in Europe

At Charlie Hebdo,
everyone was waiting
for me, even the dead

Current
feminism is
not for
women but
against men

Nathalie Loiseau

Luz

Brigitte Lahaie

Minister for European Affairs on the
rise of far-right politics in Europe

The cartoonist, who was late for
work when staff at the magazine were
killed, in an interview with JDD

The broadcaster and actor discusses
feminism during an interview with Le Point

The Connexion

December 2018

The Connexion letters pages are

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year

sponsored by

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Many of your letters concern
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The answer is simple: take
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from all of us at Blevins Franks

British cannot cast Pôle Emploi phishing
first language stone

I FOUND your article about
how terrible the French are at
teaching and speaking English
a bit of a cheek (Solving a problem like teaching languages in
France, November edition).
As a French national who
taught French in Britain for 40
years, I can tell you the Brits
should keep quiet about others’
inability to learn languages.
As to the way French teachers
mark pupils’work, so-called
“negative marking”, it beats
having to give a mark to
reward the pupil for having
written their name on the
paper.
Furthermore they, and their
parents, show no interest in
languages because “everybody
speaks English”. In France,

Added extras Letter
on car import of the
We live full-time in France
and recently bought a new car
in the UK to export here.
It was first registered in June
2018, and ecotax was paid in
the UK, but what really shook
us was when we came to register the car in France, the cost
of the carte grise was – with
regional tax and malus (ecotax
on CO2 emissions) – €7,268.
The detailed breakdown is on
the ANTS website where a
simulator allows you to calculate the cost of registration.
We were fortunate that we
could afford an additional
£6,600 on top of the purchase
price – others may be less
fortunate.
There seems little on the
internet to alert Britons to this
substantial cost of registering a
UK car in France.
Jeremy Morton
Deux-Sèvres

Letters 17

connexionfrance.com

month

English is compulsory up to
the age of 18 and most students
study two languages.
I now live in France and I am
appalled by so-called “expats”
not interested in learning
French! I offer lessons in my
area, which is full of retired
Britons and have no students.
Put your own house in order
before you criticise others.
Daniele Lebreton-Travis,
Morbihan
Editor’s note: The article
referred to is an interview with
one of the authors of a report on
the future of language teaching
in France, which was commissioned by the French Ministry of
Education. It is available to read
on the Connexion website, by
searching for “Alex Taylor”

Daniele Lebreton-Travis wins the Connexion letter of
the month and a copy of the Connexion Puzzle Book.
Please include your name and address in any
correspondence; we can withhold it on request.
The Editor’s decision is final.
Write to: The Connexion, Patio Palace,
41 avenue Hector Otto, 98000 Monaco or
email news@connexionfrance.com

Humiliating faff for carte
I have just finished applying
for a carte de séjour, and feel
angry that as a resident in
France for 12 years, I should be
subjected to such difficulty.
I was asked to provide two
copies of marriage certificate
(translated), carte vitale, mutuelle, tax bill, photos, passport,
attestation from the authorities,
proof of house ownership and
CPAM attestation.
I also took bank statements
and proof of ownership of a
house in UK and rental
statements.
On arrival at the prefecture,
we were told the papers were
incomplete. They needed

You said it …
Curfew imposed in French
town after car fires
“It should be put into place in all French towns
and cities. Then there would be a lot less
problems at night” K.F.
“Why should young people in particular be
targeted? The natural corollary is that no one
should be allowed out after dark because that is
when most burglaries and crimes of violence are
committed” M.M.
“Should be earlier – 9am would be better! And
the same for the UK, then it might stop some of
the vandalism” G.B.
“It’s because teenagers are bored. There’s nothing
for them to do after 8pm in a lot of towns” N.C.

income tax forms for the last
FIVE years, again in duplicate.
Finally, all papers were in
order and our fingerprints
checked. We will have to see if
our application is accepted.
Having not made any
demands on the state in my 12
years of residency, I found the
whole process unnecessarily
complicated and designed to
be as humiliating as possible.
I see that Europeans in the
UK have only to answer three
questions online, submit a
photo and will receive permission to remain in two weeks.
Name and address
withheld on request

Is anyone else having problems with Pôle Emploi?
Recently I was told that I
must put my details online so
employers could see my profile
and contact me directly.
As soon as my profile went
online, I was inundated with
job offers (obviously spam and
phishing). I sent them on to
Pôle Emploi, who asked: “How
do you know they are spam?”
When the same person with
different email addresses
contacts you for different jobs,
you know it’s wrong.
I also received a job offer
from Pôle Emploi which
corresponded with my profile.
If I didn’t apply for it, I would
lose my benefits unless I had a
good reason to turn it down.
The job involved a 135km
drive twice a week to give two-

hour English lessons. The rate
was below the minimum wage!
When I pointed out the pay to
the agent, he told me I was
mistaken. Having worked as a
formateur for 30 years, I know
the pay structure. I explained
about conventions collectives
(the rule book for any job in
France) but was dismissed, presumably because I’m English
My final beef with the Pôle
Emploi is receiving minutes of
meetings and/or telephone
conversations I am supposed to
have had with my conseilleur.
Each month I am sent a compte
rendu of these meetings, which
have never happened – no
doubt a box-ticking exercise
which shows the agent has
done their duty.
Margaret Lawrence
Dordogne

Brexit credit refusal?

Fees lost in
translation
I think “official translators”
are ripping off people using
their services.
All UK marriage or birth
certificates have standard field
and column headers.
Those parts of the translation
document are almost always
identical.
The variables are dates,
addresses and names, which in
most cases cannot be translated
so, apart from the “Official
translator” stamp, we are paying for a copy of a previously
translated certificate with the
addition of appropriate UK
addresses, names etc.
Hardly heavy work, copying
something that has been copied
many times before!
I have no objection to paying
for these specialists for documents that don’t have such
standard formats, but for birth
and marriage certificates,
charges appear excessive.
Barry Moffat
by email

I recently applied for an increase on my credit card limit with
the Nationwide Building Society in the UK.
I was declined and appealed. I have now been informed that my
appeal was unsuccessful and the reason was that I “live abroad”.
I have asked for confirmation in writing, which to date has not
come. I have lived in France permanently since November 2012
and have obtained three increases on my limit in November 2014,
February 2016 and February 2017. I am sure this is one of the
Be aware, if you have private
many consequences of a “No deal Brexit”.
car number plates you wish to
Mark Workman, by email sell and are about to move to
France, make sure to sell them
BEFORE the move.
I had hoped to sell mine but
was informed by the DVLA
problems police have in trying
that this was not possible as the
In general, TV news on
to control hooligans who insist
car had been officially exported
the France 2 channel offers
on disrupting the peace.
and needed to be “available for
reasonable coverage of what is
Yes, the UK has its problems,
inspection”.
going on in France and elsebut so does every other counTheir advice was to take the
where in the world.
try in Europe and the world.
car back to the UK, re-register,
But, whether it is Brexit or
It’s time France 2 looked elseMOT the car and then the
some other agenda, France 2
where other than the other side plates could be sold – highly
seems to go to extraordinary
of the English Channel.
impractical!
lengths to highlight UK’s gangKnives, drugs, and all manner
Interestingly, the UK website
land culture, with a new exposé
of unsociable goings-on are not through which I had hoped to
at least once a month.
exclusive to Great Britain.
sell seemed unaware of this.
The day I write this we were
Tony Lively
Peter Hays
presented with gangland’s “love
Charente Maritime
by email
of knives” and the continuing

Problems of
private plates

Knives out for the UK

You can debate and comment on articles either at our website:
www.connexionfrance.com or via our facebook page: www.facebook.com/TheConnexion
Here is a selection of recent popular subjects and readers’ comments...

Macron defends rising fuel prices
“Macron needs to explain why he is making
these changes. At the moment he appears to be
hurting those living outside big cities” J.H.
“When you live a 15-minute drive from
civilisation and there’s no public transport,
you need a car” S.C.
“I’m a frontalier and I live in a village but
with a 40km commute each way to work,
I have no choice but to use a car” K.H.
“I paid €1.22 per litre for diesel in November
2017 and this month the price reached €1.48.
That’s a 21% hike in price for the year. Does
our pension increase by this amount or dare we
charge our clients an extra 21%? No chance” N.C.

French town: Mushroom
pickers must wear high-vis vests

“When will the authorities, including the
mairies, realise that it is not the fault of the
victims but the irresponsible (not accidental)
fault of the hunters?”
“It is likely that hunting accidents will continue
to happen (although one can only hope that they
become a very rare event).
“But there are also accidents in other aspects
of life. Should we ban driving, skiing, climbing,
DIY .... simply because fatal accidents occur?
I learned to hunt in England in an area where
there was mixed use of the forest by cyclists and
walkers as well as deer stalkers. There were no
accidents.”

French mayors call for €1
tax on online shop delivery
“People who live in rural areas already pay
extra in travel and taxes etc and it is not always
practicable for some to travel to their nearest
town to shop” A.T.
“I am really happy to support local businesses
and even pay higher prices to support them, but
it is not always possible.” S.A.
“This delivery tax is an attempt at perpetuating
high retail prices, trying to defy an inevitable
change to 21st-century shopping habits” D.C.
“I get things delivered as it’s cheaper than
spending an hour in the car each way travelling
to the nearest city” C.S.

18 Practical

Q& A

The Connexion

connexionfrance.com

Does household insurance
pay to remove wasps’ nest?

Readers’
questions
answered

Send your queries about life here to Oliver Rowland
by email to news@connexionfrance.com

call the pompiers but they will
usually only come if they
consider it is an emergency and
they will bill you, towards the
lower end of what a private pest
control firm would charge.
In certain areas of France the
mairie, departmental council or
intercommunal body will pay
part of the cost of destroying a
nest if you use an approved
company, so check with your
mairie to see if this applies.
As for the possibility of the
wasps coming back, ask the firm
you use if the work is guaranteed
in case you find the wasps return
within a certain period of time.
There is a specific rule regarding how the cost should be borne
between a tenant or landlord in
the case of a rental home. The
part of the fee for the products
used should be paid by the tenant
and the labour by the landlord,
but the tenant should obtain the
landlord’s agreement first.
If it is clear that the nest was
there from before the start of the
tenancy, then the full cost should
be paid by the landlord.

Is insurance valid during licence swap?
I APPLIED to change my
UK driving licence to a
French one [which now
has to be done in writing
to a centre at the Nantes
prefecture] and have
been waiting months for
an attestation acknowledging my application.
I am now driving on an
expired licence and with
no attestation. Is my car
insurance still valid? H.F.
THE PREFECTURE in
Nantes previously assured
us that it is speeding up
processes for this after
teething problems with
new computer systems.
However, it advises not to
wait until your old licence
is about to expire before
applying to swap it and also
not to send your British (or
other EU country) licence

until you have received the
attestation de dépôt letter
that you can show to police
in case of being stopped.
Once received, this attestation lasts up to 12 months,
the prefecture said.
The prefecture told us
that gendarmes are aware
of the problems and will
usually not be strict about
an EU citizen driving on a
recently-expired licence
because they are waiting
for the attestation to come.
As for your car insurance,
an adviser from AXA
Agence International, which
provides an Englishspeaking insurance service
in France, said it is not a
problem if your photocard
licence has expired as long as
your right to drive is still
valid (if your right to drive is
subject to a limit, this is

December 2018

shown with a different date
on the back of the card).
In the case of British
licences, the photocard
expires after 10 years but
the validity date of your
right to drive is shown on
the back (usually at age 70,
after which the card needs
to be renewed if you live in
the UK. It is not possible to
renew it without a UK
address and you must swap
to a French licence).
The AXA adviser said: “In
the case of a UK licence, if
it’s only the photocard that’s
expired, you’re still legally
allowed to drive.”
She said the same would
apply on a trip back to the
UK (although there could
be issues with police or car
hire firms if you cannot
show a current licence).
See also Letters, Page 16

You should never try to remove a wasps’ nest on your own
Does household insurance
cover having a wasps’ nest
removed from my roof? What
if the wasps come back? G.B.
Unfortunately, the cost of
removing a wasps’ nest is not
usually covered by household
insurance and you will have to
pay yourself, in the region of
€90-150. This also applies to any

damage caused to the roof or
other parts of the home by the
presence of the nest as insurance
policies do not cover repairs of
this type as standard (although it
is worth double-checking).
Removing a wasps’ nest should
never be attempted on your own
and you should call a local pest
removal company (société de
désinsectisation). You could also

Are French classes smaller? Can shops refuse Is my expensive new
to take change? drug ‘free’ in France?
I HAVE heard that class sizes in France
are smaller than the UK. Is it true? J.B.

YES and no - class sizes are slightly smaller
in France on average than in the UK in
primary school, and much smaller in certain
primary school classes, following a measure
by the Macron government which started
this rentrée. However, secondary school
classes are on average smaller in the UK.
A spokesman for the Unsa teaching
union said the average size in primary
schools is about 25. Since the rentrée, in
certain less socially advantaged areas,
called zones d’éducation prioritaire, classes
at CP level (the first year of elementary
school and first year of obligatory schooling – though this is planned to drop to age
three next year) classes have been cut in
two, so there are 12 pupils per class.
This is known as dédoublement and has
been welcomed in theory, though some
schools are reportedly having difficulty in
terms of where to teach the separate classes
and questions were raised about the
availability of teachers for the new posts.
The smaller sizes will continue to apply in
CP and also the following year, CE1. Unsa
said teachers say children are learning
better thanks to the smaller size.
Primary teaching union SNUipp-FSU
said the latest figures across the whole of
primary school from age three to 10 were
23 per class, but too many were over 25
and in maternelle many have more than 30.
They favour a general target of 20 in all
classes in éducation prioritaire, rather than
certain classes being restricted to 12.
A spokesman said: “The new measures
have allowed for smaller classes but as few
teaching posts have been created for that, it

FUTURE QUESTIONS
- SEND IN YOURS...

CAN a shop refuse payment in small
change? J.P.

Primary classes are smaller in France
means staff have been taken away from
some other classes – ‘extra teachers’ who
had been helping with projects in schools,
in maternelle, in rural areas…”
Recent government figures for secondary
show that there are also 25 pupils on
average in collège (at this stage sizes are
marginally higher on average in private as
opposed to state schools – 24 and 26). In
lycée they are 30 in state schools and 27 in
private schools. Classes are reportedly
often larger for science Bacs than literary
ones, though there are plans aimed at
evening this out.
Recent UK government class size figures
(state and private combined) show there
are an average 27 pupils in a primary
school class and 21 in secondary.
There are set legal limits on infant school
classes, which are deemed to be “large” if
there are more than 30 (this is allowed only
under certain exceptions).

Are there rules on how much
spare diesel or petrol you
can keep in the car?

NO, the law (R.642-3 of the Code penal)
says it is an offence to refuse to accept
payment in coins which are legal tender.
However, an EU law (regulation CE no.
974-98 of the Council of May 1998)
which was put into French law (Code
monétaire et financier article R112-2)
states that a shop may refuse this if there
are more than 50 coins.
The shop may also require another
form of payment if they ask you to pay
the exact price and you cannot.
As a matter of interest, shops are also
not allowed to refuse payment in notes,
no matter how high the value (eg. if
someone pays for shopping with a €500
note) and as long as the price to be paid
is not more than €3,000.
They are, however, within their rights
to refuse payment by card, or below a
certain level, as is common in small
shops. Cards and cheques, unlike cash,
do not have to be accepted as payment as
a matter of law.

Is the CESU scheme for paying
for workers in your French home
available for non-residents

I READ with interest the
response in the August
edition to a question about
100% reimbursement for
the arthritis treatment
Adalimumab for someone
moving to France.
My situation is similar but
I have been prescribed a
newer drug, Cosentyx.
Would this also be available
to me? Also, as I am moving
as a pensioner, I am worried
that there would be a period
during which I would not
qualify as a resident for the
purposes of medical treatment and that I may need
to take out a private policy.
Is that right? C.J.
YES, this treatment, which is
also fairly new in France, is
reimbursable here, at the usual
65%, or 100% in the case of
someone with a recognised
affection de longue durée (ALD),
which would be the case if you
suffer from certain serious
arthritic conditions such as the
first reader.
However, rheumatologist
Charley Cohen from Paris said
it is considered an exceptional
treatment, to be used because
other standard ones have not
worked. To be prescribed it, you
need to see a rheumatologist in

Do you need to change the
speedometer to use a British
motorbike in France?

a hospital. It costs around €600€1,200 per monthly injection.
He said the treatment is a kind
of biothérapie which stops the
development of the illness. “It’s
only used in severe cases, when
we’ve tried other local injections
or pills, and we need to act
quickly.”
Most people who move to
France initially use cover from
an EHIC form, aimed at treatment that becomes necessary
during a visit to the country,
and then move fully into the
French system once they have
settled in. If you are a UK state
pensioner, make sure you have
an S1 form from the DWP,
which guarantees your right to
join the system in France and
which you can use to register
with a local state health insurance body (Cpam). Only early
retirees need a private policy.
Brexit is creating uncertainty
but if there is a deal, healthcare
arrangements would be protected for pensioners
coming before 2021.
If there is no deal, it would
depend on what measures the
UK and France and/or the EU
take to remedy this but those
established before Brexit day are
expected to be prioritised in
terms of protection of their
rights, including healthcare.

Is it true that ground
subsidence is not covered by
household insurance policies?

To receive the next issue at home... subscribe at www.connexionfrance.com by December 12

GIANT boars, cockerels,
horses and strange geometric
shapes sprout from the roadsides of the motorway network.
Why? Because of the 1%
artistique, a law dating from
1951 which aims to support
artistic creation and encourage
the populace to appreciate
modern French art.
The law says that whenever a
new public building goes up such as a school, police station,
court or library – 1% of the
cost of construction should be
spent on one or more works of
art to be integrated in the
building or located near to it.
The 1% is calculated on the
total, pre-tax cost of the work
minus architect’s fee, roadworks and furnishings. If the
money is less than €30,000, it
may be limited to buying a
ready-made piece. If it is more
than this, an artistic committee
is set up to put the work out
for tender and commission the

Image: Alacoolwiki, fr.wikipedia.org

Image: perrytaylor.fr

Q. I am aware that France is
in the middle of a major
investment in its telecommunication network. How
soon will this affect the
average customer like me?

(left). Others leave you scratching your head, such as the
25m-tall Signe Infini (1994) to
the north of Lyon – a version
of the infinity symbol in steel –
or the Vrilles Lumi­neuses
(1995) at Rogerville in SeineMaritime, which is two big
screw-shaped lit-up masts.
Some art inspired by local
culture is still not obvious at
first glance: Sur la trace des
Vikings (On the trail of the
Vikings) on the Autoroute de
Normandie at Tourville-laRivière, looks like a ball with
arrows attached (bottom left).
Les Chevaliers Cathares
(1980) near Narbonne in the
Aude (top right) has been
described as resembling
bunkers or burqas and is
probably the only motorway
art immortalised in chanson –
Francis Cabrel wrote an
unflattering song about them.

A. The first sign will be for
those wanting to have a new
line. Analogue line installations
have ceased and a new service
is offered. Most homes that
already have a line will not be
moved on to it until 2023.
This is something those able
to have a fast broadband service (2Mbps) already use.
Known as VOIP, all their calls
are carried by their broadband
service, which has the benefit
of no monthly line rental.
It is possible these improvements will not reach all those
in rural locations. They will be
offered a connection to the
national network using a 4G
box but this will require a good
4G signal to be present.
For those in urban areas, the
Fibre To The Home service
continues to expand. This is

much faster and generally more
stable. It is perfect for those
who enjoy gaming and downloading films, although it will
come at a higher cost. For now,
Orange and SFR are the only
owners/operators of the fibre
networks, with UKTelecom
partnering with SFR to bring it
to eligible customers.
Many other companies will
make similar arrangements so
you may not have to change to
sign up.
There have been some other
significant changes at SFR.
They have been buying TV
channels and have reached an
agreement with Netflix (access
to the French film library) to
provide video on demand and
they have exclusive broadcasting rights for major football
competitions. Telecom companies that partner with SFR, as
we do, will be able to offer subscriptions.
There may be further changes as telecom firms move
towards a broader entertainment service.

material. A boar is the
Ardennes’ symbol so this one
had an obvious local significance as does the Poulet de
Bresse (1999) at Dommartinlès-Cuiseaux in Saône-et-Loire

Q: My husband and I have decided to bite the bullet and move to
France now in case residency rules become more difficult. Our
house in the UK is on the market and we are hunting in France.
What is the best way to bring funds over?
Image: Util5814 fr.wikipedia.org

schools and higher education –
the next one will be March 30
to April 5 2019 – promoted by
the education, culture and
agriculture ministries, to
celebrate the 1% art associated
with educational buildings
around France.
It was extended to buildings
associated with other ministries during the 1970s and
finally autoroutes in the 1980s,
although because of their very
high cost it is technically 0.1%
in their case. As a result,
so-called art autoroutier has
art, with advice from the
flourished, a cousin of the art
conseiller en arts plastiques (art
giratoire that can be seen on
adviser) from the regional
many French roundabouts and
directorate of cultural affairs
which is funded by local
(Drac). In theory, any branch
authorities. As it is very visible,
of art can be involved, whether
it reaches people who would
sculpture, painting, light or
not go to art galleries.
sound installations. The artist
The artist benefits from a
does not have to be French but
“right to have their
art respected”, and it
Our main image
cannot be moved or
was drawn for
changed without
Connexion by
artist Perry Taylor. their permission.
Regional committees
For more of
and the private
his work see
motorway managewww.perrytaylor.fr ment companies
are involved in
commissioning the
art for motorways.
should be set up for tax and
“Motorway art” ranges from a
social charges in France.
classical column broken into
The 1% artistique concerns
pieces between Saint-Etienne
all central state constructions
and in some cases local author- and Clermont-Ferrand (called
ity ones. It also comes into play La Colonne Brisée, 1984), to a
horse sculpture l’Archeval
for major renovations of a site,
(1997) at Vivy, Maine-et-Loire,
if a change of use is involved.
or Woinic (2008), a 50-tonne
It is estimated that more
piece at a service station at
than 12,000 projects by 4,000
Saulces-Monclin in Ardennes
artists have been involved in
(pictured right) said to be the
total since the law was passed.
“world’s biggest boar”.
The scheme was associated
Woinic cost the Ardennes
first with schools and was
council no less than €650,000
championed by sculptor René
and it has trademarked its
Iché. Les Journées du 1% artisimage to use in promotional
tique is held in some years in
Image: BlueBreezeWiki . fr.wikipedia.org

As you drive around
France you may see
large-scale art on the
sides of motorways –
due to a typically French
law, the 1% artistique

Practical 19

connexionfrance.com

A: There are various ways in which you could transfer your funds
to France but one of the most cost-effective methods is to use a
specialist currency broker, avoiding the transfer fees charged by
banks while also securing a more competitive exchange rate.
As even a slight discrepancy in the exchange rate you secure
can mean a difference of thousands on large transfers, achieving
the best rate is essential if you want to get the maximum return.
On top of this, leading currency brokers also offer a range of
transfer options to help you make the most of positive rate movements and plan your transfers for the right time.
One particular service that may be of interest to you is a forward
contract. Any transaction involving property – whether you are buying or selling – can be fraught with delays and it can take time for
everything to be finalised. The exchange rate could weaken, which
in the era of Brexit is an all too real possibility. However, with a
forward contract you can freeze a rate for up to a year.
While this means you would miss out if the rate suddenly
strengthened, it should provide you with time to hunt for your
dream home, knowing exactly how much the proceeds from the
sale of your UK one will be worth when transferred.
You could also use a rate alert service to target a particular
rate. Tell your provider what exchange rate you want to achieve
and they will let you know if the market moves to that level.
While Britain’s future outside of the EU remains unclear, the right
currency provider can help you navigate these uncertain times and
ensure you maximise the returns of your pounds to euro transfer.
 Email your currency queries to news@connexionfrance.com

For more information about making international
money transfers with Currencies Direct
visit the website www.currenciesdirect.com/france
or call +33 (0)4 22 32 62 40

20 Practical

The Connexion

connexionfrance.com

December 2018

Educating future stars of sport, stage and art
If youR child has an interest or gift
in sport or the arts there are state
schools where they can mix normal
school work with additional lessons in
their specialist subject.
Some 2,000 secondary school
collèges and a smaller number of lycées
have a section sportive (you may also
hear them called sport-études) and
they cover about 90 sports.
Many specialise in football – there
are 615 across the country that focus
on “the beautiful game”, followed by
281 in handball and 218 in rugby.
Others teach swimming, tennis,
gymnastics and skiing, while two
schools are specialists in squash and
one in boxing. Four schools have a
sports section for disabled pupils.
Pupils follow the same mainstream
lessons as everyone else in the country
but with an extra three to eight hours
of sport a week, plus competitions at
weekends or in the evenings. This is
on top of EPS sports lessons written
into the timetable for all pupils.
It is difficult to get a place, however,
as they are popular and accept only
between 15 and 20 in each class.
Students must have good overall
marks to show they can cope with

“

My children said it
was magical because
they did not have to sit
in a classroom all day
and it kept them
constantly challenged
Parent Murielle Mahé

general lessons as well as their sport.
They also have to show they have
regularly taken part in a sport and
belong to a club. Recruitment may be
at local, regional or national level.
Interested parents are advised to
contact collèges at the beginning of the
second term of CM2 at primary
school or get in touch with potential
lycées while children are in quatrième.
It may be possible for children to
board at the school if the nearest one
is not within easy travelling distance
or if the sport needs it, eg. a mountain
location for skiing.
There is a higher-level intensive
sports education system for those who
have already been spotted as potential
national sportsmen or women.
They are the Pôles Espoir (for those
who hope to represent France) and
Pôles France (international competition hopefuls). They can train for
up to 20 hours a week and will either
do their academic work in a school or
by CNED (distance learning).
Sport prodigy
Romane Zillhardt, 14, is in her first
year of lycée at Bordeaux in a Pôle
Espoir, where she specialises in volleyball. She was spotted as a potential
future national player at her club in
Sarlat and, after a rigorous selection
process, was picked to follow an education regime unlike regular lycées.
Every day, she has four hours of
academic lessons, two in the morning
and two in the afternoon, and has to
catch up on some lessons via distance
learning. She also has to do four hours
of training – two hours in the
morning and two in the afternoon or
evening. She has a further 90 minutes
of personal study time for her homework in the evening.
She will do the same bac as other
students and has to keep up with her
studies to ensure she does not miss
out on a quality education and future
career options after her sporting life
has ended.
Romane is one of a class of 18, who
all do different sports and who have
different timetables as the hours of

Photo: Jane Hanks

Options are available for
children who show an
aptitude for, or interest in,
sport, music, art, dance or
theatre, Jane Hanks learns

Promising volleyball player
Romane Zillhardt trains for
four hours a day as part of her
daily school routine

sport they do depends on their
speciality and their trainer.
She studies in one school which has
a sports section, boards at another
and trains at the Centre de ressources,
d’expertise et de performance sportive
(CREPS), where many high-level
sports people in the regions train.
At weekends she plays at least one
match with her club. Despite the
heavy schedule, Romane says she is in
paradise: “I have less school and more

sport; more autonomy
as I board and have to
look after myself. I have
met lots of people who
love sport as I do and
because I am in a team
sport, there is a really
good atmosphere.”
Her mother, AnneCécile, says such commitment requires support from the whole
family: “The education
is free, but it will cost
us around €6,000 in
boarding fees, plus €300
a month to CREPS,
train fares to and from
home, and we will have
to find a family for her
to stay with at weekends so she can go to
her sports club as
school boarding is
closed and her club is
far from home. There
are some grants we are
looking into.”
Despite the high
financial price, Mrs
Zillhardt believes it is a
wonderful opportunity
for Romane: “She will
have a good education
and a good chance of
playing in competitive
sport for her career,
which is what she wants
to do, and the CREPS
and the lycée take good
care of their students.”

Music and the arts
For pupils interested in the arts, there
are special classes in certain primary
schools and collèges where you can
have music, dance, theatre or art
lessons that are not available to other
students in the school timetable. They
are called classes à horaires aménagés
(CHA) and are CHAM for music,
CHAD for dance, CHAT for theatre
and CHAAP for art (arts plastiques).
The 120 conservatoires countrywide
have to offer them as part of their

remit. Parents are free to apply for a
collège or primary school which is not
in their town, but there will be a
selection test in the chosen field.
Murielle Mahé, president of FUSE,
an association which represents
families with children studying the
arts, said: “It gives an opportunity for
children who might not otherwise
have been able to learn an instrument,
because it is free or very low cost and
because parents do not have to find
time to take their children to lessons
outside school hours.
“We’d like to see more. It is difficult
to find out how many of these classes
there are but most are in music, with
some in theatre, dance and art.”
She says there are other schemes:
“Some primary schools and collèges
have classes orchestres and classes
chorales which you cannot apply for
from outside the school, but you
benefit if your child happens to be in
a school with that facility. There will
be music lessons for the whole class
within their curriculum.”
Mrs Mahé lives in Paris and her four
children have all opted for a system
that is so far only available in the
capital.
They go, or have been, to state
schools linked with two conservatoires in Paris (music), the Opéra de
Paris (dance) or la Maîtrise de Radio
France (choir), where students have
school in the morning and their
specialist lessons all afternoon.
They can start when they are in
primary school.
“My children said it was a magical
opportunity,” says Mrs Mahé,
“because they did not have to sit in a
classroom all day and it kept them
constantly challenged.
“There is a lot of competition. At the
Conservatoire de Paris there are up to
1,000 auditions a year for 200-300
places. It shows there is a demand and
we would like to see more set up in
other parts of France.
“Funnily enough, there are a lot of
Japanese children but not many
British, so perhaps they don’t yet
know about this scheme.”

Robert Kent of
Kentingtons explains.
www.kentingtons.com
MANY of you who have read this column for
the years we have been writing it have noted that
we have never discussed saving or investing
money. Instead we have focused on French tax
and legislation affecting the lives of those
moving to, or living in, France.
What better time to discuss it than the festive
season, when manic retail therapy and overindulgence makes finances go a little awry?
When it comes to money, few people actually
plan their futures beyond next week, let alone
next month or decade. This is where the outside
view, given by a professional, is useful.
What we see is many people using UK-only
investment and saving structures, saying they do
not know the options in France.
Let’s see if we can remedy both of these at
once. Separate your money into different “pots”.

As a guideline I suggest three: short term,
medium term and long term.
Short term: this should be where you have
immediate access, so instantly available. I
generally suggest six months forward income,
with three months being the absolute minimum.
This can be a savings account, so we suggest
the Livret A or Livret de Développement Durable
(LDD) as these are income and social charge
free. There are limits, but for a couple this
amounts to around €70,000, which is good
enough for many people.
A useful hint: these accounts may lose up to 15
days’ interest when you take money out, so to
stop this loss of interest, withdrawal is best after
either the 15th or 30th of the month.
It is not advisable to leave too much on a
current account, for reasons of poor return and
banking security.
Medium term: this is where access is not immediate, maybe taking weeks. This may be a compte
à terme (term deposit), or a long-notice account,
where interest rates (insulting though they are
these days) are higher than in instant access.

This can also be in an assurance vie, using the
fonds en euros, which gives a better return than
many deposit accounts.
Such funds should never be deemed instant
access, especially since they are not cash. The
amount you place here is more a buffer for the
next pot, and depends on your aversion to
investment risk/volatility.
Long term: this is investing, so should be money
that you have no plans to touch for the next five
to 10 years. In France, it is common to use an
assurance vie for this purpose, but a PEA (plan
d’épargne en actions) or a compte titres, akin to a
stockbroking account, may also be used.
These are generally stock market-related,
investing in funds, stocks and bonds, so you
need to be happy that values are volatile. A full
analysis of your tolerance for volatility is vital
before placing any money at all.
For this critical pot to work properly, the other
two pots are essential and need to be managed,
or the long-term pot will end in catastrophe.
It is easy to mix the medium and long-term
pot with an assurance vie, as they can hold the
fonds en euros and funds, known as unités de

compte. Note that an assurance vie is never
suitable for short term. For those who plan to
draw an income, it is a question of planning
what is required for the next few years and
keeping this in the fonds en euros, with the
remainder (or what you are comfortable with)
in market-based investments.
Many years ago, I had a colleague who
described saving as being like storing food.
We have the larder, for things that will be eaten
soon, the fridge for things we want to last a little
longer, and the freezer for things we might keep
for a while. Prior to the existence of microwaves,
this was an accurate analogy, but it still paints a
picture and serves as … well, food for thought!
Long-term investing is often the pot people
ignore the most, but it is more important than
ever because of low to zero interest rates, and
remains important no matter what the economic
environment.
Keeping things in the UK is rarely a good
option for French residents, causing complications for currency, succession and inheritance as
well as losing out on significant tax savings.
Now I have made you feel bad about spending
your money, Joyeux Noel!

Stellar journey: France’s
place in the space race
With a film about the moon landings and lunar anniversaries coming up, Samantha David
examines France’s space-bound history and talks exclusively to its only female astronaut
Photos: ESA

I

n this coming year people all over
the world will be celebrating the
50th anniversary of the first human
to walk on the Moon. On July 20,
1969, the Apollo 11 Mission astronauts, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin,
landed the lunar module (codenamed
‘Eagle’) on the Moon’s surface and the
next day Armstrong became the first man
to walk on the moon.
A biopic about Neil Armstrong (First
Man) has already been released and
throughout 2019 we will see a plethora of
other space-exploration events commemorating the first moon walk. Officially,
the US won the Space Race – but France’s
contribution to space exploration has
always been substantial.
Exploring the universe through science, engineering and technology has
been a French obsession for centuries;
an item looking exactly like a rocket even
features in a French tapestry dating back
to 1664.
Jules Verne wrote De la Terre à la Lune
in 1865, George Méliès’ film Voyage dans
la Lune was made in 1902, and throughout the 18th century Frenchmen including the Montgolfier brothers attempted
to take to the skies.
Joseph-Louis Gay-Lussac managed to
reach 7,016 metres above the earth in
1904. Between the wars, several French
aerospace engineers were designing rockets and who knows what the outcome
might have been, because of course the
outbreak of the First World War effectively grounded their dreams.
As soon as the First World War was
over, however, the French love affair with
space began again: the Laboratoire de
Recherches Balistiques et Aérodynamiques
(LRBA) was set up in 1946, and in 1961,
Charles de Gaulle’s government created
the Centre National d’Etudes Spatiales
(CNES) to coordinate French space
exploration efforts.
It is based in Toulouse
rather than Paris, in
order to take advantage
of the clearer skies.
French researchers
started developing
Europe’s first carrier
rocket, the Diamant,
and by 1965 France
was launching beta
satellites.
Space exploration is
expensive, however, and
success depends on international cooperation. It is
pointless researching information
which has already been discovered in
another country; scientists and researchers need to work together.
So in 1973, France was instrumental in
setting up the European Space Agency
(ESA), and the French contribution to its
budget remains the largest amongst the
agency’s member countries. In fact, at
€2,438billion, (or €37 per year per inhabitant) the French space budget is the second largest in the world after the USA. It

is even larger than the Russian, Chinese
and Japanese budgets respectively.
ESA’s main spaceport is in Kourou in
French Guiana (before which it was in
Algeria) and it boasts the world’s most
successful record of space launches. The
French were amongst the collaborators
on the Herschel Space Observatory, and
the Planck Space Observatory as well as
the Copernicus Programme (which monitors the earth’s biology). CNES has even
provided cameras for an Indian mission
to the moon which was launched in
January 2018, and they collaborate with
China too, notably on the France-China
Oceanography Satellite which studies
ocean surface winds and waves.
France was also a major player in
the 2018 InSight mission to
Mars and is involved in
multiple future projects.
French space exploration has also
launched a few
slightly more frivolous quests. French
chef Alain Ducasse
worked with Hénaff
to provide gourmet
French cuisine on the
ISS (International
Space Station) and
Mumm champagne hired
Parisian design firm Spade to
come up with a bottle and glass
which would make it possible for space
tourists to drink champagne in space.
(Yes, it’s tricky, but tests in September
2018 showed it can be done.) And when
young French astronaut Thomas Pesquet
spent half of 2017 on the ISS, his social
media posts from space ensured that he
was a star in France even before his feet
touched the earth again.
France has produced ten astronauts (the
UK has produced six), including their

I was just
12 in 1969
when the
Americans
landed on
the moon.
I longed
to go into
space like
them
Claudie
Haigneré,
Astronaut

only female astronaut, Claudie Haigneré.
A qualified medical doctor and neuroscientist, she was an astronaut with the
CNES from 1985-1999 and with ESA
1999-2002. She spent 16 days on the Mir
Space Station in 1996 as part of a
Russian/French mission and became the
first European woman to work on the
ISS, spending 10 days there in 2001.
“Going into space was a fantastic experience,” she told Connexion. “I was just 12
in 1969 when the Americans landed on
the moon, and I longed to go into space
like them. I became a doctor, and then
one day I saw an advert recruiting people
to become astronauts with CNES and I
jumped at the chance.”
The selection process was extensive, she
says. Candidates underwent tests to certify their medical fitness to go into space,
as well as their psychological aptitude.
“But I made it and had the honour of
being selected. I was the only woman,
but think it’s very important for women
to take part in space missions, in all
scientific projects actually. I was very
pleased to see Donna Strickland win
the Nobel Prize for physics, and Frances
Arnold win the Nobel Prize for chemistry
last October – it’s a step towards women’s
achievements being recognised.”

The making of an astronaut

Astronauts need nerves of steel and a
background in science, but they are also
selected for their psychological qualities.
They need to be adaptable, to find solutions to complex problems fast, and they
need to be team players, neither too passive nor too active, able to find consensus
in the group. “And astronauts have to be
able to learn languages,” says Claudie
Haigneré. “We all had to learn Russian
because the training for the Mir Space
Station was all done in Russian. We did
part of our training in Russia in fact, so

it was very much a linguistic immersion,
but also a cultural one.
“You have to be able to learn how
Russians think and interact... you need
people who can operate efficiently in
international teams. I love that. Learning
Russian was really hard but I really
enjoyed my time in Russia.”
She says that the relationship between
the French and Russian space agencies
went back to the end of the Second
World War, when De Gaulle was very
keen for France to take a leading role in
space exploration.
“Relationships have evolved today, and
now the scientific community cooperates
across borders despite the politics of the
day. The ISS is not only a fantastic scientific laboratory and a wonderful technological achievement, it is a magnificent
diplomatic tool; it’s where an international community – who trust each other
implicitly – work together.”
She says being launched into space
wasn’t frightening. “After so many years
of training I was completely prepared and
looking forward to it, but it was an
extraordinary experience. The physical
sensation of lift off, the acceleration, getting into orbit in just over 8 minutes...
and then you experience micro-gravity
and that’s an extraordinary freedom.
The reality is more beautiful than you can
imagine, because without gravity you use
three dimensions, you have complete liberty of movement and from the window
you see the earth, isolated in space but
so beautiful; blue and white, stunning
colours. You see its fragility, all alone
in space, the vulnerability of the thin
atmosphere which protects it.”
She admits to a tiny tear in the corner
of her eye, but says she had complete
trust in herself and in her colleagues during the launch. “I was excited, focussed,
vigilant, concentrated, and because

France in space 3
Photos: Samantha David

Photo: Cité de l’Espace/Manuel Huynh

December 2018 I French Living

How to be a space
tourist...on terra firma

Keen to explore France’s long history of space exploration,
intrepid Samantha David visits Cité de l’Espace in Toulouse

T
everything went well, with no glitches,
in some ways the real flights were easier
than the training because in training you
prepare for everything which could go
wrong, so it’s more stressful.
“The Soyuz capsule is very small, it’s an
exceptional experience curling up in the
seat, and the journey to the ISS takes 48
hours, which is quite a long time. It’s not
very comfortable but when you look out
of the window, it’s magic. I first saw the
northern lights from space.
“I had the impression of being in a
science fiction film. Watching the space
station get bigger and bigger as you arrive
is amazing and when you get there, you
have to learn to get around without gravity, so the first day is weird because you’re
learning to control your movements, and
adapt to being weightless.
“But within 24 hours you feel like
you’ve always lived in micro gravity.
And then you have to start work. The
ISS is basically a huge laboratory for
researching micro-gravity.”
She says sometimes astronauts amuse
themselves by letting a ball of water float
around the space station. “And if you clap
your hands and smash it, little droplets of
water fly everywhere.” If someone ever
cried in space, their tears would float.
“But I’ve never seen anyone really cry.
Water is in short supply, and you have
to be very careful about liquids,
you can’t get things wet. Once a week
you have to clean and tidy the station,
wipe it down, clean it up.”
Astronauts can take a few small items
into space with them. “I took photos of
my family, plus my daughter’s little teddy
bear,” she says. “My husband [the astronaut Jean-Pierre Haigneré] took the same
bear on his space missions. We shared
him. I also took a few books and some
music but you don’t really have personal
time in space. You work quite a lot and

also you spend time sharing your feelings
and sensations with the other astronauts
on the station.
“Of course, most are men, only 10% of
astronauts are women, but female astronauts have held all available positions
on board; engineer, scientist, pilot, and
commander. We all return to earth very
aware of what a marvel the earth is, how
fragile and isolated. It doesn’t have infinite
resources, and the cosmos is quite hostile,
there are no protecting elements there,
there is no way to live without our planet.”
Claudie Haigneré still works at ESA,
developing new ideas for future space
exploration, one of which is a ‘Moon
Village’ by which she means a concerted
effort from national and international
space agencies, academic communities,
commercial space tourism companies,
and other commercial ventures who
might want to use the moon’s resources,
increase knowledge of the moon, or
establish commercial ventures there.
“The idea of establishing an outpost on
Mars is still very far off, it’s technically
so complicated that it won’t happen any
time soon. But it might be possible to
establish a permanently inhabited base
on the moon by 2030. The longest time
a human has spent there is just 72 hours,
but it could be possible to live up there
for up to six months at a time.”
It’s a wonderful adventure, she says,
an amazing project, a partnership
between government agencies and private
companies. “Such a project would have
to involve all countries. I hope we can
all cooperate and do it together. It’s a
peaceful, collaborative
concept with a range of diverse partners.
“And why not? So much the better if
our work makes people dream, excites
them, expands horizons and possibilities.
We need dreams, we need aspirations.
It makes us excel and surpass ourselves.”

Above: Educating
and entertaining
the next generation
of space explorers
at Toulouse’s Cité
de l’Espace

he ‘Cité de l’Espace in
Toulouse is not just another
theme park. It aims to provide
real education about space
exploration in a way that is
accessible and interesting to everyone
from children to space geeks.
The history of space exploration is
described in detail, as are all the technical
developments, and daily life in space.
What is it really like spending Christmas
Day on the ISS? Do they get Christmas
dinner? (Yes, but if you hold your nose
while you eat you’ll get an idea of how
tasteless food is in space). How do you
go to the loo in space, where everything
(yes, everything) floats? (The answer is:
with caution!) It is a fascinating trip
through a completely different world.
When I visited, the highlights were
definitely the “walking on the moon”
experience and curling up in a real, genuine Soyuz capsule (inset). On the ISS
there is almost no gravity, but there is a
little more on the moon. Astronauts
walking on the moon weigh six times less
than on our earth. To see what that is
like, you are strapped into a seat attached
to the ceiling by massive springs, which
then allows you to walk on a replica of
the moon’s surface. It’s a very bizarre
experience, and hugely fun of
course. You only need the
slightest touch of your
foot to send you
bouncing high off
the ‘moon’.
You can also
explore a Russian
training replica of a
Mir space station,
exploring the controls and seeing the
upright pods where
astronauts sleep, but for
me the highlight was curling up in the seat of a Soyuz
capsule, ready for take-off. The
Cité de l’Espace has a real capsule, which
was constructed for training purposes,
but which has never actually flown.
A Soyuz rocket has three sections; an
orbital module which provides accommodation for the crew during their mission, a service module containing instruments and engines, and a re-entry module which returns the crew to earth. Here,

astronauts lie on their backs in an almost
foetal position in order to withstand the
vibrations of take-off and landing. Each
one is tailor-made for each astronaut,
again in order to give maximum support
and protection, so the Soyuz capsule
which transports crew members to the
ISS then stays there until the same people
use it to return to the earth.
The orbital and service modules are
destroyed during re-entry to the earth’s
atmosphere; only the re-entry module
survives, but it is so heat-damaged that
it cannot be used again.
At the Cité de l’Espace you can climb
into the Soyuz module and curl up in an
astronaut’s seat. Imagine what it must be
like to know that you’re about to be
launched into space – it gave me a tantalising glimpse of the fear and excitement
that astronauts must feel, however welltrained and prepared they are.
Elsewhere in the Cité, there is an interactive exhibition explaining some of the
skills astronauts learn, including doing
dexterous tasks upside down, and catching a ball you can only see in a mirror.
The Cité de l’Espace also keeps up with
current events in space. Philippe
Droneau, the Special Advisor to the CEO
says, “We don’t aim to be a theme park
or even a museum. We aim to
provide a window giving a
view of space exploration
as it happens. For
example, this autumn
when the FrancoGerman robot
MASCOT landed
on an asteroid, we
did an all-day live
broadcast open to
the public.”
If you want to meet
an astronaut, he suggests attending one of the
evening events. “We often
have talks where the public can
ask questions. Last year we had 110
astronauts here for a conference.”
For the 50th anniversary of the first
human steps on the moon, the Cité de
l’Espace is planning a series of special
events and celebrations throughout the
year, plus a major commemoration on
July 20. Full details will be available at
www.cite-espace.com nearer the time.

4 Rencontre

French Living I December 2018

‘You need to know about colour and
form and each window is a creation’
Jane Hanks meets a
window dresser whose
job is to tempt you into
shops this festive season
One of the Christmas traditions is to
admire the beautifully decorated shop
windows in the big cities across the
world. In Paris, the Galeries Lafayette’s
vitrines are the ones to see. Dressing
windows is an art and a job. Morgane
Cordillot is a Décoratrice Merchandiser
and she runs a busy agency working for
brands and chains such as Etam and
Optic 2000 and teaching her skills.
How did your passion for
creative work begin?
I come from a family where my parents
thought I should get a proper job, and so
after I left school I began a university
degree in literature. However, I did not
enjoy it and found myself spending more
and more time walking up and down the
Boulevard Haussmann in Paris and staring at the shop windows.
One day I saw someone actually making up a window for Repetto. I plucked
up my courage and asked if I could watch
her and help her, to learn how she
worked, even though I was not even sure
that this could be a job for me. She was
very kind and helped me a great deal.
I signed up for the Ateliers du Louvre to
learn about everything artistic and I loved
it. I discovered that I was not an intellectual and that the world of art and making
things with my hands was for me.
I then applied for a place at the Ecole
de la Fabrique, which is a Paris Chamber
of Commerce school teaching Fashion
and Decoration. However, I did not get a
place because I did not yet have the right
qualifications and background so I
enrolled for a Mise à Niveau en Arts
Appliqués, MANAA, which gives students
who have not studied art at school the
chance to catch up on their skills.
After that I was able to get a place in
the school, and ten years later, I
teach the art of window
dressing at the very same
school, as well as working to create windows
for shops myself.
Are there many
places where you
can learn this job?
There is just one public
school in Paris, but several private ones throughout
France. Many people may be
surprised that you have to study to
become a window dresser and perhaps
think it is the shop’s sales staff who do
the work. People do not realise it is a real
art and requires several skills. You need
to know a great deal about colour and
form and each window is a creation.
What is the importance of a
well dressed window to a shop?
My job is to attract people on the street
to enter the shop, where they might then
be tempted to make a purchase. 50% of
clients in a shop are there for pleasure

not to make a specific purchase, so you
have to tempt them in.
It is a challenge because people no
longer walk leisurely but walk fast and
if they stop in front of a shop it will be
for an average of just five seconds. Each
shop window must tell a story, so that
the person will want to go in.
What elements do you consider
when you create your window?
You must make sure the products on
display are at the ideal height of 1.60m
– at the level of the passer by’s eyes.
Colour is very important. One
rule is not to use more than
three colours unless it is for
a carnival display or for
children. Some colours
give strong messages.
Red attracts attention,
yellow announces the
sales, and green is associated with organic
products, for example.
The fewer the colours and
the more neutral they are,
the higher the quality and the
more expensive the product or brand.
The colour you use in the window does
not have to be the one the customer is
most likely to buy. In a clothes shop I
might use an orange jumper to attract
attention. Inside the shop a customer
might choose the same style, but perhaps
in a more sober colour.
One method is to use the triangulation
principle, as when objects are placed in
a pyramid the eye travels to the top, then
moves down to the right and back across
to the left and this makes people really
look at the goods in the window.

Above: An example
of Morgane’s festive
window dressing at
Laura Ashley; Inset:
Morgane at work

“

The colour
you use in
the window
does not
have to be
the one the
customer is
most likely
to buy
Morgane
Cordillot

How long before a window
needs to be changed?
Between one month and six weeks.
Customers are always looking for new
ideas and if you change your window
frequently they will want to see what is
new inside.
It also depends on the type of product.
In a pharmacy, for example a client will
come back once a month to renew their
prescription. Whilst in other shops, such
as a patisserie, the theme will follow the
seasons with the Christmas bûche, and
perhaps a bell at Easter.
Do fashions in presentation change?
All the time. At present the fashion is
linear with for example the same products lined up, in different colours, so
you have to be aware of the trends.
How long does it take
to create a window?
First you have to design it on a computer
and send a proposal to a client who will
choose which window dresser to employ.
Then you have to create the décor, either
yourself, or you will have to research it
and buy it.
The actual window itself can take
between two hours and three days,
but I would say about five hours on
average. It is a very physical job because
you are always on the move. I walk
between nine and 10 km a day!
Do you specialise in certain
types of products?
You have to be a bit like a doctor who
is a General Practitioner and be prepared
to work in every sector. However, there
are areas I am happiest in which include

interior design, opticians and women’s
clothes and I would prefer not to do a
man’s clothing shop as I would not feel
at home with it.
When is your busiest time of year?
September to December is very busy
because there is a lot of demand for windows for the Rentrée and then, of course,
there is Christmas. That starts at the
beginning of November and lasts until
mid-December.
During that period I often do 2 windows a day, whereas the rest of the year it
is more likely to be one a day. Christmas
themed windows are essential, if not the
shopkeeper looks as though he has made
no effort at all and no-one will want to
buy from him. It makes people happy
to see a beautiful Christmas window.
Is it difficult to come up
with new ideas every year?
In fact it is a period of the year when
people prefer to keep with tradition, so
innovation is not a must. There are different trends though. This year wood is
really big. Pools of iridescent colour
and gold and bronze are also popular.
What do you like about your job?
I love my job and I would not want to
change, because it is different every day
in every way. I meet different clients,
work on a huge range of different products and I am in different places. I can
be creative and earn a living at the same
time and my parents have now come to
terms with my job and are very supportive. It is worth finding what you really
want to do. Above all, what I love is that
this job gives me freedom to create.

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Jane Hanks speaks to the new head gardener at the late, great artist’s wildly popular garden in Giverny, Normandy

H

Ice-free record at Pic du Midi
The Pic du Midi de Bigorre (HautesPyrénées), the 2,877m high mountain
peak and home to an astronomical
observatory, was frost-free for a record
108 consecutive days from June 14 to the
end of September.
Météo France said this is the first time
since 1882 – the year when temperature
measurements began – that the unenviable milestone has been passed. The previous iceless record was 77 days, in 1999.
Maximum temperatures in the Pyrenees
could rise by up to 7.1 degrees by the end
of the century, according to a scenario
based on the current trend identified by
by Climpy, a cross-border research project between France, Spain and Andorra.

The Le Clos Normand area, first planted by Monet with iris,
narcissus and tulips; Inset: the pond and Jean-Marie Avisard
ed an oriental theme by planting bamboos, maple trees, Japanese peonies,
white lilies and weeping willows and then
he planted the waterlilies. He did so, he
said almost by chance: “I love water, but I
also love flowers. That’s why, once the
pond was filled with water, I thought of
embellishing it with flowers. I just took a
catalogue and chose at random, that’s all.”
After his death,
the property fell
into disrepair until
Monet’s family left
it to the Académie
des Beaux Arts in
1966. It was not until
1977 that enough
money could be gathered together to start
restoration work on
the house and garden.
Much of the money was given by rich
American patrons and work was overseen by Gérald Van der Kemp, who had
been involved in restoring Versailles.
Using archive material, paintings and
memories from people who knew the
garden, the plants he used were found,
whole areas were cleared to be replanted
and the Japanese bridge, which had rotted was identically reconstructed. In
Photo: Pascalou Petit

Green news

Photos: Fondation Claude Monet

alf a million visit Giverny
in the Eure every year to
see the garden created by
Monet. It is unlike any
other garden because it was
designed like a painting, where colour is
of supreme importance. To achieve the
natural look of the garden, which
requires thousands of plants to make it
look so colourful, requires an immense
amount of work from the gardening team
who toil all year long, unseen for the
most part by the public.
Jean-Marie Avisard is head gardener.
He has worked at Giverny since 1988 and
took up his new responsibilities in April
this year when the previous head gardener retired. He says this garden is so special
it takes years of experience to understand
it: “One of my challenges in taking up this
role is to put together a new team of gardeners as many are nearing retirement
age. It is not the kind of garden you learn
about at horticultural college. You have to
know about plants but also have an artistic streak. There is a great deal of creation
involved. It is a garden with its own style,
neither classic French or English.”
Claude Monet lived at Giverny for over
40 years, until his death in 1926. When
he first came to the house there was a one
hectare garden with an apple orchard, a
kitchen garden, a long alley and flowerbeds bordered with box. This area is now
called the Clos Normand, and Monet
immediately set to work to make it the
garden of his dreams. He replaced the
apple trees with cherry and apricot,
got rid of the box and
introduced the metallic
frames which are still
there. In a garden
which continually
evolved he planted
daffodils, tulips, narcissus, iris, oriental
poppies and peonies
and many others.
On the left side of
the garden he created rectangular beds of single colours,
which resemble the paints on an artist’s
palette. He would continually experiment
with new plants he discovered.
The water garden with the famous lilies
came later. In 1893, he bought a piece of
land situated at the end of the Clos
Normand and diverted water from the
river Epte to create his pond, because he
loved studying the play of light and
reflections of cloud on water. He recreat-

“

Monet
had eight
gardeners
but we
need more
as it has to
be perfect
every day
for a huge
number of
visitors
Jean-Marie
Avisard,
Head gardener
at Giverny

Nice tops most polluted list
Nice in Alpes-Maritimes has come bottom in a poll of the most polluted cities
in mainland France, according to a study
conducted by L’Express newspaper.
For a year, from April 1 2017 to March
31, 2018, L’Express collected air quality
data for the 100 largest French cities.
Nice has ‘very mediocre air’ for a total of
67 days according to the ATMO index,
which provides daily information on ambient air quality in major French cities.
Other cities from the Region Sud just
behind Nice are Avignon (60 days),
Marseille (57 days) and Aix-en-Provence
(54 days).
“Pollution episodes are caused by high
levels of ozone, linked to sunlight, or by
high emissions of primary pollutants
from industrial activity and road traffic,”
explains Florence Péron, (air quality monitor) Airpaca’s manager in Nice.

1980, Giverny opened to the public.
Mr Avisard has a team of 11 full time
gardeners plus apprentices and others
who are on internship. “Monet had eight
gardeners, but we need more as it has to
be perfect every day for a huge number
of visitors, and we have less time as our
main work has to be done when the visitors are not there. This means we have to
start very early in the morning.”
Next to the garden are greenhouses and
polytunnels where 180,000 annuals, bi-annuals and perennials
are grown from seed every
year. “We do not buy
plants from nurseries
because we want to be
sure we can get the
varieties we want.”
Throughout the season there are several
time consuming daily
jobs: “If you want continuous colour, you must take off
the dead flowers, so the plant
does not produce seed heads and stop
flowering, so dead heading is one of our
most important jobs. This year we also
had to do a great deal of watering,
because of the unusually dry summer.”
The water lilies need cutting back.
Plastic cutlery banned by 2020
Having already banned in June the use
of plastic straws and twizzle sticks, the
French government has now voted to outlaw the use of single-use plastic cutlery
and containers – meaning no more disposable knives and forks for your picnic.
“Let’s make sure we attack the next decade by moving away from this plastic
dependency,” said MP François-Michel
Lambert after the vote in the Assemblée
Nationale. There will also be a ban on
“food containers for cooking, heating
and serving in plastic” by 2025.
Sea tyre ‘reef’ is an environmental failure
A ‘reef ’ made of 25,000 old tyres aimed at
rejuvenating wildlife off the coast Antibes
in the 1980s has been removed from the
Mediterranean over pollution fears.
The tyres were deposited with the agreement of local fisherman and regional

“Every day someone goes out in a boat to
trim and tidy the lilies, so they keep on
flowering and so they look as much like
the paintings as possible.”
The gardens are closed to the public
from November to the end of March,
which gives time for the gardeners to
prepare for the next season: “From
November 1 onwards it is a race against
time. First we take out all the annuals and
dig over the soil and at the same time we
dig in manure. Then we plant the bulbs.
First the tulips and then the smaller ones.
We plant 15,000 every year and dig them
up again after they have flowered. Even
though this is labour intensive, we do this
to make sure that we will have strong
flowers every year and to enable us to
change stock and variety.”
The water lilies have all their leaves cut
back and the rhizomes are left underwater in the pond. They will start to grow
again once the temperature reaches 16°C.
The roses and trees are pruned and the
annuals are sown and other plants are
potted up to be planted out later.
Since Mr Avisard took over, he has
stopped using any chemical products and
uses auxiliary insects to kill any unwanted
pests and makes up nettle, comfrey and
other natural solutions to act as fertiliser.
Giverny is a garden that is constantly
changing with the seasons. In the spring
there are pansies, blossom and many different bulbs. In early summer there are a
multitude of poppies, irises and peonies.
June is the month of the rose and the
water lilies begin to flower.
In July, there are snapdragons, begonias,
geraniums and many more followed by
dahlias and gladioli in August. In autumn,
the Clos Normand area is covered
in nasturtiums of different
varieties and purple dahlias
stand out. There are rudbeckias, cupheas and
aster and the sages are
purple and blue.
This requires planning:
“We always have to be
looking ahead,” says Mr
Avisard. “We have to order
seed many months before
the plant will be in the garden.”
Mr Avisard says most visitors
come in May and June, but that there is
always something different to see in this
most beautiful and unique garden.
fondation-monet.com
Open November every day
except Thursday 14.00-18.00.
authorities but by 2005 studies found that
toxic heavy metals were being leaked into
the sea. And local fish never took to their
new home.
“We hoped (back in the 1980s) that we
could restore aquatic life there, but it
didn’t work,” the deputy mayor of
Antibes, Eric Duplay said.
Périgueux crèches clean cleaner
In the latest move towards eco-crèches
in France, 15 crèches in the town of
Périgueux, Dordogne, have opted to
use only cleaning products that have
no potentially corrosive, allergenic or
carcinogenic properties.
Instead, the 200 employees will use
white vinegar and black soap as well as
a detergent and a dishwashing product
bearing the Ecocert label.
The move is aimed at protecting the
health of both employees and pupils.

Gardening 7

Photos: Pixabay

Photo: Gardena

December 2018 I French Living

Hellebore, a fine festive flower

Grower’s digest
The woodcutter’s story
Bûcherons (woodcutters) preparing for
some dormant winter tree chopping or
heavy branch pruning might need a new
élagueur (pruner) or tronçonneuse électrique (electric chainsaw).
A handy alternative for those trickier
high branches is this telescopic pruner
(Elagueuse sur perche) by Gardena
(pictured above, model TCS 720/20,
price €152.90 from www.gammvert.fr).
Pruning of trees is not recommended in
autumn unless branches are dead or hazardous. Also, in winter, branch structures
are easier to spot.

Photos: DR/Zara Home

Create your own interior Eden
Winter gardens were originally huge
conservatories built by European nobility
in the 17th to 19th centuries to house
tropical and subtropical plants.
The more modest domestic equivalent
is, of course, a furnished conservatory
(called a veranda in French) that also
houses plants not hardy enough to
weather the ravages of winter.
The price you pay depends on build
quality and spec, with places such as
Leroy Merlin offering entry-level verandas in kit form with a 10-year guarantee.
Do not forget to adhere to the correct
planning protocols via your mairie.
As for which plants to choose, passion
flowers, lemon or orange trees and
mimosa can lend some much-needed
colour for those gloomy winter days.

They are picky but Christmas roses are great inside and out, says Cathy Thompson
Insta-jardins

Social media app Instagram is a brilliant way
to enjoy other people’s
gardens in France, with
everyone from chateau
visitors to chambre d’hôtes
owners posting seasonal
snaps of their gardens
(users can search using
the hashtag #jardins).
This month’s pick
features some autumn
colours snapped at Parc
de Sceaux by ml.c58. The
house and gardens are just
30 minutes south of Paris
and ideal for a day out
from the capital.

French garden diary

D

o you know the story the
little shepherdess called
Madelon who met the
three Magi on a hill above
Bethlehem? At first excited, she then wept because she had no
gift for baby Jesus. But hey presto, an
angel turned her tears into the
Christmas rose, Helleborus niger.
It will soon be everywhere in the shops
– so Madelon’s lack of gift has bloomed
into our ideal present for someone who
loves flowers in the home at Christmas.
Better still, after it has finished flowering
it can go into the garden.
The reality is a little different, isn’t it?
For a start, H. niger rarely blooms at
Christmas. You can wriggle out of this
small problem by pointing out that
the Fête des Rois is January 6 – and
the hellebore does often seem to make
this calendar appointment.
The next problem is that it does not
always do so well in the open garden.
This is a plant that comes from woodland edges in the mountains of southern
Europe and it really does best in quite
an alkaline, rich, loamy soil with good
drainage. A wet spot, or one in full sun,
is unlikely to suit.
Due to its aversion to excess water
around the neck, you must be sure not
to set the collar of the plant below
ground and ensure it gets plenty of
water up until midsummer and a fair
old bit of drought after that. Oh, and it
does not like wind either.
Do not lift and divide once in more
than every eight years – it does not like
being disturbed in the garden (do any
of us?). If you really want to make more,
do this in spring while the soil is still

moist and make sure your divisions are
large enough – better still, you could try
putting them in pots of potting compost
until they are growing on strongly.
If you save seed, sow it as soon as ripe
in July or August. Put the pots of seed
outside in a sheltered spot and keep
them moist. No germination will occur
until the following spring, since the seed
needs winter cold to break dormancy.
It takes plants 2-3 years to flower.
The specific name ‘niger’, by the way,
refers to the black roots. From the time
of the ancient Greeks the Christmas
rose has been included amongst the four
classic poisons – the other three being
nightshade, hemlock and aconite.
Do not be afraid, however, the
real plant is not as toxic as it
sounds, although in the Middle
Ages it was used to provide
poison arrow tips.
Nevertheless, it has been used
by herbalists for centuries. John
Parkinson wrote that the plant is
‘good for mad and furious men,
for melancholy, dull and heavie
persons, and briefly for all those with

“

It does not like
being disturbed
in the garden
(do any of us?)

blacke choler, and molested with melancholy.’ Quite a claim, but does it work?
There is a much more positive, centuries-old belief, however, that if you bring

the flowers of Christmas rose into a
room they will banish an unpleasant
atmosphere and promote peace and
tranquillity. It all seems a little contradictory, does it not?
And here we have our next problem –
bringing them into a room if you have
not bought them in a pot. My hellebores
usually flower too late, the stems are
often too short and the flowers are
never the pristine white you want.
Fortunately, there are solutions. This
is perhaps a perfect plant for forcing in
pots in a cold greenhouse. Alternatively,
set glass bell jars or cloches over the
plants when they begin to
flower and use a slug/
snail deterrent. There’s
nothing so awful as
a flower that’s supposed to be pristine with half its
face eaten away.
Some recommend
that you watch out
for Helleborus niger
ssp macranthus in order
to guarantee long stems,
but there is a modern alternative – a
‘new generation’ of Christmas rose that
breeders have worked on for our delight.
I’ve discovered two cultivars called
‘Joshua’ and ‘Jonah’, although it is
hard to purchase them.
Dutch nursery Kwekerij Verboom has
bred a plant guaranteed to flower with
decent stems at Christmas – ‘Verboom
Beauty’ is available from those lovely
hellebore people at Ashcroft nurseries in
England – and they mail order to France.
OVER TO YOU
What’s your favourite Christmas plant
and how do you look after it after it has
flowered? Email me at:
editorial@connexionfrance.com

Attract more wildlife
to your garden
with high quality food, feeders, nest
boxes, plants and more!

visit www.vivara.fr

Proud to support Open gardens/Jardins ouverts

8 Big interview

French Living I December 2018

‘In the end, the power of love is all’

As one of France’s most admired environmentalists, Pierre Rabhi advocates a simplified existence in
order to live a sustainable, happy life. Jane Hanks falls under the sage’s spell in an exclusive interview

Photo: LAZIC

P

ierre Rabhi is a French farmer,
writer, philosopher and environmentalist who is well known
to the French as a man who has
been promoting an alternative,
simpler way of life for many years, long
before it became fashionable. He is now
80, but retirement is not for him as he
continues to strive to create what for him
would be a better world, with less emphasis on making money and more on being
happy with what we already have.
Just recently a report from the government environment and energy management agency body Ademe quoted an
Ipsos study which found that most
households thought they had a total of
34 electronic pieces of equipment, but in
fact the figure is closer to an astonishing
99 and that people buy three times more
now than in 1960.
One of Pierre Rabhi’s many books,
Vers la Sobriété Heureuse, was translated
into English last year, The Power of
Restraint. What did he mean by this title?
“We live in a world where there is part
of it which is suffering from over consumption and throws too much away, and
another part where there is still famine.
We produce 40% more than we need.
“One fifth of our world, of which I am
a part, uses four fifths of the world’s
resources. I cannot morally accept that
situation. To change that we need to
adopt more modest lifestyles. In our
society we have more than enough to
eat, but even then we are not happy.
“There is no joie de vivre. People in the
West are always worrying about what
they do not have, rather than enjoying
what they do have. If we were producing
all these goods and people were satisfied,
then maybe our civilisation would have
been successful, but people are not happy,
so we must change things.”
Pierre Rabhi’s image is that of a benign
ascetic man, who wears simple clothes;
one of his trademarks is the check shirt,
cord trousers and braces he nearly always
wears. Prime Minister, Edouard Philippe,
Culture Minister, Françoise Nyssen and
former Environment Minister, Nicolas
Hulot, have all been quoted as saying
they have been influenced by his work.
Showbiz characters too, such as actress
Marion Cotillard have said he has guided
them for years.
He has not avoided criticism and one
journalist for Le Monde Diplomatique,
Jean-Baptiste Malet, wrote an article
pointing out that the agricultural methods he promotes have been marked as
unscientific by some, that the success of
his farms depend on unpaid volunteers
who are there to learn the new techniques
and that for someone who leads a simple
life he rubs shoulders with rather too
many millionaires.
When you talk to him though, there is
no doubt about his sincerity in the message he is trying to get across, despite the
complexity any social theory confronts.
He recognises that he is now one of the
people in the world who has a comfortable income, and he agrees there are levels
of poverty in the western world which are
too low as money is necessary to provide
basic needs.
He is convinced of the virtue of the
agricultural policies he is promoting.
When I talked to him on the telephone I

was struck by the genuine tone of his
voice and his willingness to give up time
to talk at length to me, and in consequence Connexion readers about the
urgency of his simple message that we
must do something to change our society.
Frugality was the norm
He was born in Algeria, where his
father was a blacksmith and he remembers those early days with pleasure as he
saw his father working his forge and welcoming friends in front of his shop where
they talked, drank tea, told jokes, laughed
and also discovered serious issues. He
remembers also the square in his town
lined with shops and other artisans
premises and that every day, songs
wafted out of the workshops like small
bits of serenity.
He says frugality was the norm but the
people living in extreme poverty lived
also in a culture of hospitality and charity.
He recognises that it was not perfect,
but that it was better than the alternative
when the French found coal mines and
the local people went to work in them,
including his father, who he says then
became sad:
“I was influenced by my childhood,
where I saw people who lived a simple life
and who helped each other and when they
had enough to eat they were happy. There
was a kind of joy in their simplicity.”
His mother died when he was four years
old and his father was worried about his

“

I do have
faith in
women in
the future
because
they are
not like us.
I think it is
women who
will help
bring about
change

son’s education and sent him to live with
a childless French couple in the north of
Algeria. Later he went to Paris and found
work in a factory, which he says made
him realise he could not subscribe to a
“model of society that clearly alienated
the individuals within it.”
He met his wife
Michèle there and
together they
decided to get
back to nature
and in 1961 they
moved to the
Cévennes hills
in Ardèche,
where they
have lived
ever since.
He could not, at first, get a loan to buy
a farm without an agricultural qualification and so studied for a Brevet d’Aptitude Agricole (BAA, agricultural competency certificate) before launching into
a life on the land. His aim was not to
make a fortune from farming, but to
provide enough to live on. They did
not have mains water for seven years or
electricity for thirteen years.
This was at the period known as the
Trente Glorieuses, when the French economy was booming and people were leaving
the countryside for the towns while Pierre
Rabhi was doing the exact opposite.
Anyone who has come to live in
France for the good life will know that

you quickly learn that living off the land
is no bed of roses and Pierre Rabhi does
admit there were difficult moments: “At
the beginning when we started our farm
it was hard. We had no money, but I had
a brave wife and I was good with my
hands and could get other work to make
ends meet and we pulled through. My
children helped too. We were
always encouraged
when people came
to visit and who
were appreciative
of the way we had
chosen to live.”
We can’t get
no satisfaction
In The Power of Restraint,
Pierre Rabhi talks about
money not being able to fulfil every
desire, the disaster of chemical agriculture
and a disconnection between mankind
and nature. In fact, for him a key to
changing the way we live is for more and
more of us to adopt a back to the land
approach, where we grow as much of our
food as we can, or at least buy locally,
using, of course organic means to do so.
He has developed a form of farming
called agroecology and he says you can
grow anything anywhere, even in the most
inhospitable of climates using these methods: “With agreocology, you produce food
in line with nature and not against it. I
have set up many organisations, which

Big interview/Trending 9
Photo: Jane Hanks

December 2018 I French Living

Leaving home: coworkers
reap benefits of office use
experiment to get the most out of the
earth. It is not just with permaculture,
but uses many techniques. All of it uses
zero pesticides. I do not believe in reasonable agriculture, where some chemicals
are used sometimes; I think it is too
ambiguous.
“One of the most important books
I have written, which was awarded a
prize by the Ministry of Agriculture,
is L’Offrande au Crépuscule [The Dusk
Offering] published by L’Harmattan and
describes how we used agreocology to
produce food for local people in one of
the most inhospitable areas, the Sahel
region adjoining the Sahara Desert.
“The ideal is to keep on experimenting
and finding new ways of producing food
in line with the laws of nature instead of
allowing our agriculture to be dominated by the Petro-Chemical industry.”
He says the food we eat in the western
world is tainted: “At present what we
produce is toxic with too many pesticides. Somebody said to me that when
we eat we should not be saying “bon
appétit” but good luck, because you don’t
know what is in your food. It is why
there are so many cancers and other diseases. If you pollute the air you breathe,
the water you drink and the food you
eat, people will be ill. We are destroying
our world everywhere.”
He says that talking is not enough: “I
think it is urgent that we do something
to save our planet. I have written alot of
books but you cannot just have the bla,
bla, bla. You need action too. That is
why I have set up so many associations
which are out in the field trying to introduce new ways of providing food.”
The associations he has set up are:
Les Amanins, an agroecology study centre at La Roche-sur-Grâne in the Drôme;
Colibri, a platform for meetings and
exchanges; the Ferme des Enfants, a
school using Montessori methods on a
farm at Lablachère, Ardèche; the Solan
Monastery, in the Gard, where fifteen
nuns from seven different nationalities
were among the first to adopt agroecology; and Terre et Humanisme, which
practises and teaches agroecology.
He has taught his agroecology in
Mali, Senegal, Tunisia, Burkina Faso
and Cameroon among others, to improve
the food autonomy of local populations
so that they need not depend on humanitarian aid.
He has written a charter for the earth
and humanity, with a subtitle: What kind
of planet will we leave to our children?
What kind of children will we leave to
our planet?

He is particularly savage when he
criticises the present education system.
“Education is very important. I deplore
the system of education when instead
of teaching children to support and help
each other, we teach them to be competitive and do better than the others.”
And he is convinced that women will
play an increasingly crucial role in ensuring the future of the planet, saying that
the subordination of the feminine to an
extreme and violent masculine world
remains one of the major impediments to
the positive evolution of mankind: “I do
have faith in women in the future because
they are not like us. They gave life and are
less aggressive and are beginning to show
their strengths and I think it is women
who will help bring about change.”
His view on our present lifestyle is
bleak: “To move forward we need intelligent people who understand that something needs to be done. There is a huge
imbalance between urban life where
there are too many people and the countryside, where there are not enough to
produce the food we need in a sane way.
“I think at present there are both unintelligent people who are leading us in the
wrong direction and intelligent people
who can see the problems. I think there
is some hope as there is more and more
demand for a new way of life. My assistant has 600 requests a year for conferences where I talk about changing lifestyles, so a great many people want to
think and hear about it.”
So what can we do as individuals? He
feels that if everyone changed just a little
things could be different and that individual effort is worthwhile.
One of his favourite fables is that of
the humming bird who faces a forest
fire. All the animals flee, but the humming-bird continues to take tiny beakfuls of water to the flames. “Are you
mad?” cry the other animals. “You
cannot put the fire out on your own.
“I know,” says the hummingbird,
“but I will have done my bit.”
“But it has to be done with love and
respect for humanity”, says Pierre Rabhi.
“It is no good eating organic food and
installing solar panelling, if you do not
embrace the rest of mankind and share
your experiences with them. In the end,
the power of love is all.”
For the moment he has no intention of
stopping his work. “I cannot give up yet.
As long as I have enough energy I will
continue. Also, if I did stand down I am
not sure who would replace me so I have
to keep going.”
www.pierrerabhi.org (French only)

Above: Pierre Rabhi
visits Burkina Faso
for an international
agroecology meeting
Opposite, bottom:
Centre Amanins,
an agroecology farm
and school in Drôme

Every edition we assess an emerging aspect of French zeitgeist.
This month: freelancers who share office space, by Jane Hanks

#trending

C

oworking is becoming an
increasingly popular way to
work, so that even if someone is self-employed they can
leave home to go to the office
where they can meet up with other people, both socially and for business contacts. They will rent a place in a shared
office, instead of working from home or
renting expensive premises.
The concept and the word coworking
was used for the first time in 1999, by
Bernie de Koven, an American game
designer and it quickly took off in AngloSaxon countries.
Now it has also become an established
alternative way to work in France, and
the number of available spaces has multiplied by ten in the past five years. When
the government asked for a study into
coworking in France this year they
thought there were 600 centres, but discovered there were 1,800, including just
over 400 Fablabs which offer shared technical equipment, rather than just a desk.
The author of the report, Patrick LevyWaitz told Le Figaro he had been surprised by the huge growth in this field:
“What was also striking, was the extent to
which the way people work is important
to them. There is a significant desire to
create something different.”
As a result of this report into what official documents call tiers-lieux, the government has recognised it as a way to
attract new businesses and workers in low
employment areas and has promised to
invest €110million over three years from
2019. The aim is to create 300 centres in
small and medium sized towns, rural
areas and deprived city suburbs. The
report found that at present the vast
majority are in Paris, with the NouvelleAquitaine in second place.
A coworking space, Le 400 in Brive-laGaillarde, welcomes the new government
investment: “We are happy! Happy for us,
because we need support, but happy for
all the places in France, which believe,
like us, that there is another way to work.”
Their slogan is “A place where you feel at
home even though you are at the office.”
Sabine Chouffour works designing heating systems in eco-housing and says she
really appreciates Le 400. “I worked at
home for eight years but then wanted to
be in contact with other people again.
Here it is affordable, so I come three days

a week and it is interesting to meet other
people with different jobs and we talk
about a whole range of subjects.”
Micha Cziffra is a translator: “I have
been able to get involved in new projects.
When you want to work people respect
that, but there is always someone to chat
to when you have a break.”
You can rent a desk with free access to
WIFI for €9 a day, €125 for one month,
or €100 a month if you agree to stay there
for a year.
bureauxapartager.com is a website
which posts spaces to rent. It has studied
600 coworking spaces and found that
coworkers are made up of freelancers,
start-ups and small businesses. However,
20% of places are rented by big companies, who need to send an employee to
another location, for a short period of
time, for example. Reasons given for people to cowork were firstly to meet people
and develop networks, secondly for the
situation and to have access to good
working conditions and thirdly the price.
A real estate market research company
JLL study says the coworking market has
seen an 80% increase in operator activity
in coworking between 2016 and 2017 and

“

It is interesting to
meet other people
with different jobs
and we talk about
a range of subjects
Sabine Chouffour,
Coworking space user

says there is no reason to think this trend
is slowing down.
The report points out that in the UK,
there are now 3,300 centres, far more than
in France, and the growth in independent
workers will demand more and more coworking structures. Eurostat figures show
the number of freelancers has grown from
700,000 four years ago to 830,000 in 2017
and that by 2030 independent workers will
make up between 13 and 14% of the working population, many of whom might prefer to go out to work in a shared office
space, rather than staying at home.

This weekend sees Lyon swell with visitors, making the hypnotic festival
of lights the third most attended event in the world after Rio Carnival and
Munich’s Oktoberfest. Rooted in the traditional celebration of the Virgin
Mary on December 8, nowadays the enchanting spectacle spills across
four days. Tea lights placed on window sills cast a golden glow over the
city, where more than 50 installations captivate crowds in squares, parks,
on bridges and across historic façades.
The festival’s push on sustainability means that miraculously, only 0.1%
of the annual energy consumption of the city’s urban lighting is used.
Keep an eye out for installations at the newly restored Place des Terreaux,
which will be transformed into an outdoor cinema with movies projected
across the famous Lyonnaise landmark: the Hôtel de Ville.
fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr/en

More December events
Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fashion Freak
Show, Paris, until December 29

The convention-defying designer,
responsible for Madonna’s conical bra
and the iconic bust-shaped perfume
bottle, breaks the boundaries yet again
with this show that takes on 50 years
of popular culture.
Through a combination of dance,
cinema and circus, Gaultier revisits
his inspirations in this 15-person
performance with a soundtrack
masterminded by Nile Rodgers.
jpgfashionfreakshow.com/?lang=en
Les Rencontres Trans Musicales,
Rennes, December 5 – 9
Since 1979, Rennes’ eclectic musical
festival has been reputed for putting
some of the biggest names in music on
the map: the likes of Björk, Nirvana and
Daft Punk played here on their first
European tours. Originally a rock festival,
now the mixed-tape approach to
programming incorporates rap, folk,
hip hop, techno, jazz, world music and

electro. Expect a diverse array of music
from international musicians in the Parc
Expo, just outside the city centre.
lestrans.com
Critérium de la Première Neige,
Val d’Isère, December 7 - 16
The major rendez-vous celebrating
the first snows of the season sees ski
champions descend on Val d’Isère, to
compete in the World Cup men’s and
women’s ski championships. Join in with
the animated atmosphere as athletes fly
down the pistes.
worldcup-valdisere.com/en
Les 24 Heures des Menuires,
Les Menuires, December 8 - 9
From 9.00 to 10.30 the pistes of Les
Menuires in The Three Valleys are
open with an abundance of snowy
activities for the opening of the ski
season. The programme includes a
ski slalom, cross-country race and the
descent of the flaming torch, as well as
concerts, fireworks and fondues.
lesmenuires.com/hiver/activites/grandsevenements
Habits de Lumières, Epernay,
December 14 – 16
This sophisticated celebration of champagne is anything but humble. This year
futuristic flying machines inspired by
Jules Verne will parade down the Avenue
de Champagne, where illuminated popup bars from the grand champagne
houses sell flutes of bubbles.
Fireworks, musical performances, video
installations and art displays ramp up
the festivities. Highlights include champagne-themed culinary performances
from the region’s Michelin starred chefs,
a Christmas-themed dessert competition
and a vintage car procession.
habitsdelumiere.epernay.fr/en
Jazz au Fil de l’Oise, Val-d’Oise,
until December 16
For 22 years, winter along the river Oise
has been welcomed with the jazz festival
that takes place in towns dotted along its

banks. A range of jazz and improvisation
musicians play intimate concerts:
highlights this year include flautist
Joce Mienniel performing his ethereal
melodies during an evening of music
and gastronomy at the 13th century
Abbaye de Royaumont and experimental
jazz group GoGo Penguin in Cergy,
December 1.
jazzaufildeloise.fr/programme.html
Christmas markets, Grenoble,
until December 24
Grenoble’s diverse Christmas markets
leave you spoilt for choice. Foodies
should head to the Place Victor Hugo
where fine food purveyors sell cheese,
meats and hot cider. Try a tipple of
Chartreuse, the local herbal liqueur
brewed by monks. Then there is an
artisan market, international craft stalls,
music, circus performances and plenty
of locally grown walnuts to snack on as
you browse.
marches-noel.org/marche-de-noel-agrenoble

Christmas in the capital, Paris,
throughout December
The lights of Christmas transform the
French capital from the end of November
until the New Year. The Champs-Elysées
dazzles with grand lighting installations
and all Paris’ districts from Place
Vendôme to Saint-Germain-des-Prés
have their annual lights-on celebrations.
Ritzy department stores Printemps
Haussmann, Galeries Lafayette and BVH
Paris curate beautiful window displays
and a 300-stall Christmas village comes
to the esplanade of La Défense.
A little outside the city, festivities of a
gourmand nature take over the Château
Vaux-le-Vicomte, where gingerbread and
candy canes adorn ceremonial rooms.
en.parisinfo.com/what-to-do-in-paris

Romeo and Juliet Ballet, Versailles,
December 28 – 30
The star-crossed story of Shakespeare’s
most famous tragedy is translated into
dance, set in the sumptuous surrounds
of the Palace of Versailles’ Opéra Royal.
The Italian-inspired setting lends itself
perfectly to the Veronese plot, the choreography for which Ballet Preljocaj was
awarded a Victoires de la Musique in 1997.
tinyurl.com/y9524gl2

Truffle markets, Richerenches,
until March 10
Winter is the season of France’s favourite
mushroom and sees a flurry of trufflerelated activity across Dordogne and
Provence. Over 70% of the aristocratic
fungi are grown in the Vaucluse region,
grown most commonly around hazel
and oak trees.
In Provence, trufficulteurs descend
on the Knights Templar village of
Richerenches. The woody smell of truffles
pervades the market, held in the l’Avenue
de la Rabasse (truffle in Provençal) where
connoisseurs sell, sniff and talk truffles.
Tastings of omelette made with freshly
dug-up truffles are a highlight.
richerenches.fr/richerenches-in-english.html

Soleils d’hiver, Angers,
until December 31
The seat of the Plantagenet family and
home to the impressive Château d’Angers,
Christmassy festivities take over the town
in the form of fanfare parades, a glittering
Ferris wheel, carousels, Santa’s grotto, an
ice rink and wintery gift stalls.
Shop for stocking fillers or simply
enjoy the fairytale ambiance of Anjou’s
medieval capital with a mug of steaming
chocolat chaud.
tinyurl.com/ybrwn6rt

Chinese Lantern Festival, Gaillac,
until February 6
Gaillac is twinned with Zigong in Sichuan
province, hence the town hosts the largest
festival of Chinese culture in France.
Among the 500 illuminated sculptures
on display, a glowing bamboo forest lights
up the night, there are performances of
traditional Sichuan dance, a lit up ‘sky
temple’ and a Franco-Chinese Christmas
market, as well as a multitude of Chinese
food vendors.
festivaldeslanternes-gaillac.fr

The Connexion works
with local tourist offices
for the information on
this page. Due to
possible last-minute
changes to programmes
and event timing we
recommend that you
always check with
individual organisers
before making a trip.

December 2018 I French Living

What’s on/Cultural digest 11
Big art and the voice of Johnny
A round-up of news, and those creating ‘le buzz’ in French cultural life

housed in a former warehouse. Its
Gustav Klimt show has proven so popular it has been extended until January 6.
The paintings are projected up to 10
metres high and enhanced by a bespoke
soundtrack featuring Beethoven and
Chopin, piped in through loud speakers.
“I am convinced that the marriage of
art and digital technology is the future
of the dissemination of art
among future generations,”
said the museum’s director
Michael Couzigou.

who still love each other, who decide to
separate, but carry on living in conjoining apartments. Only their childrens’
rooms separate them – the ‘air lock’ they
call it – and even the kids and the family
dog play ‘versions’ of themselves.
This family comedy is inspired by the
amusing experiences the couple encountered during their own separation, and
makes for an off-beat modern comedy,
with the kids’ interests to the fore.

Christmas in a Castle, Loire Valley, until January 6
During the festive period, the magnificent chateaux of the Loire
Valley transform into real-life fairytale castles. Famed for its
double helix staircase and Renaissance architecture, the Château
de Chambord is even more spellbinding when fires crackle in the
hearths and a myriad of lights adorn its interiors.
Renaissance theatre evenings, (December 15-16; December 22
through January 6) costumed characters and traditional games
such as Louis XIV billiard and troll-madam all take place beneath
the Christmas tree, at no extra cost. Expect illuminations in the
impeccable French gardens and an elegant display of Christmas
trees inside the château designed by prestigious French brands.
Meanwhile, Château d’Amboise celebrates 500 years of royal
festivities with a programme of musical events named “Christmas
through the centuries.” The oldest Christmas market in Western
France arrives in the grand salon of the Château de Brissac and
local artisans set up shop in the feudal wine cellars of the Chateau
de Brézé, offering tastings of the region’s fine wines.
chambord.org/en/discovering/programming-and-events

2. It’s a rap!
The maxim ‘there’s no such thing as bad
publicity’ certainly rings true for one of
France’s most popular rappers, Booba.
Along with his entourage, this summer
he was involved in a very public bust-up
at Orly airport with rival rapper Kaaris.
Footage of the unsavoury scenes, which
saw fists and duty-frees flying, was widely shared on social media and resulted in
the pair appearing before a judge. Both
received 18-month suspended sentences
and fines of €50,000.
Booba’s fans, however, were less outraged – 32,000 of them were in raptures
as the rapper, who has enjoyed a 20-year
career, played a sell-out show at Paris La
Défense Arena in October.
His latest single ‘BB’ topped streaming
platform charts in France.

Christmas markets, Strasbourg, until December 30
Take a trip to Strasbourg in December time and it is instantly
clear why the Alsatian town has earned itself the moniker of
‘Capital of Christmas.’ This is Europe’s oldest Christmas market
dating back to 1570. Previously the market was held on
December 6 called a klausenmärik (Saint Nicolas market) but
became a christkindelsmärik when Alsace became Protestant.
Over 300 wooden chalets dotted about the twinkling town
sell artisan gifts, stocking fillers and serve the hearty traditional
fare of the Alsace region. Chandeliers and festoons of lights
illuminate the streets of the Grand Île, which come alive with
concerts, nativity scenes and the towering Christmas tree that
sparkles in the Place Kléber. Get your skates on at the ice rink
before warming up around a cup of hot Riesling (glühwein)
and soaking up the cinnamony smell of Christmas with some
homemade bredele biscuits.
noel.strasbourg.eu/en

3. Art on the walls, not just canvases
A new trend among museums and art
galleries in France is to project artworks
onto walls so that visitors can better
appreciate the brushwork detail and
skills of the artists.
The idea is that the grandeur and funky
layouts of spectacular displays lure those
who do not normally visit galleries.
Among the pioneers is Paris’ first digital art museum, the Atelier des Lumières,

4. Fashion life’s a beach
Fashion house Chanel’s
seasonal shows at the Grand
Palais in Paris are not only
eagerly awaited for their clothing trends – every spectacular
transformation of the building
itself is also much-anticipated.
In the past, Karl Lagerfeld
and his team have turned the vast space
into a supermarket and a rocket ship.
October’s Paris Fashion Week show,
however, trumped the lot – it became an
indoor ‘Paris Plage’ complete with tonnes
of sand and even real waves lapping at
models’ bare feet. Lagerfeld waved from
a beach hut at the end of the show.

1. A family affair
The directorial debut by actress Romane
Bohringer is a contender for best ‘Life
imitates art’ film of the year, with a subject matter exceedingly ‘close to home’.
Amour Flou (Fuzzy Love), co-written
and co-starring Bohringer’s real-life
ex-husband Philippe Rebbot, tells the
story of a couple, no longer ‘in love’ but

3

12 Recipes

French Living I De

Apple man’s core belie
Prime apple season is the perfect time to speak to the pastry chef
Christophe Adam about his passion for baking with pommes

B

y the time he was sixteen
years old, Christophe
Adam knew that he would
be a pastry chef. Born in
Brittany, in the Cornouaille area, he received his basic
training at the Pâtisserie Chocolaterie
Le Grand in Quimper as soon as he
had finished school.
Two years later, he was in London, in the pastry kitchen of the
triple-Michelin-starred Le Gavroche
restaurant. He had set out on his
quest to master his niche of refined
gastronomy.
Back in Paris, he worked at the
luxurious Hôtel de Crillon with
Christophe Felder, honing his art and
becoming ever more demanding of
himself. After a three-year stint with
Laurent Jeannin, one of France’s most
talented pastry chefs, he continued
on to the Beau-Rivage Palace in
Lausanne to work as its pastry chef.
In December 1996 Adam moved to
Fauchon, the Paris food emporium.
There, he began asserting his individual style, his energy and creativity
taking him to the position of head
pastry chef in 2001. He overhauled
the classic éclair, transforming it in
a multitude of shapes and flavours.
When Fauchon opened its bakery
in 2007, he was in the vanguard of
the creation of le snacking chic:
upmarket, easy-to-eat nibbles for
people on the go. With Adam overseeing operations, Fauchon opened a
string of stores in Monaco, Bordeaux,
New York, Moscow, Beijing, Dubai,
Tokyo, and Casablanca. After this fifteen-year adventure, Adam decided
to embark on his own ambitious
enterprise, focusing on new themes.
Discreet yet determined, he worked
on a boutique focusing on a single
genre. L’Eclair de Génie (literally, “a
stroke of genius”) was born, with his
first boutique opening in the Marais
district in Paris. Here, he worked on
his concept that included éclairs of
all types, chocolate bars, spreads,
and chocolate candies. There are six
Eclair de Génie boutiques in Paris
and a number of others spread
throughout Asia, in Tokyo,
Yokohama, Osaka, and Kyoto,
as well as Hong Kong and Seoul.
Adam has authored several books,

“

The apple is the
basic fruit of every
pastry chef, the
one grandmothers
turn to when they
bake for loved ones

including Éclairs, Tartelettes, Very
Important Pots, L’Éclair de Génie,
Caramel, and Workshop l’Éclair.
In collaboration with Christophe
Michalak, another star on the French
pastry scene, he founded the Club
des Sucrés, a club that brings together
chefs from the top echelons of French
pastry-making so that they can
exchange their savoir-faire.
Adam is also a member of the jury
of the weekly TV show, Qui Sera le
Prochain Grand Pâtissier? (Who’ll be
the Next Great Pastry Chef?)
In addition, he is a commentator on
Stéphane Bern’s weekly radio show,
Comment Ca Va Bien!, where he
reveals his chef ’s secrets.
Why write a book about apples?
Mr Adam explains: “This cookbook
is all about apples, nothing but
apples, in every form and shape
imaginable. In my recipes, I put
this fruit through every transformation a pastry chef – and food lover –
can imagine.
“Apples are the fruit most widely
grown and consumed in the western
world. The apple is also the basic
fruit of every pastry chef, the one
grandmothers and mothers turn to
first when they bake for their loved
ones. In fact, it’s the go-to fruit for
most homemade tarts. Sad to say,
the number of regional varieties has
diminished, but there is still a wide
range to choose from.
“You can select from those apples
generally available in mainstream
stores and the heirloom varieties you
might stumble upon at a farmers’

market or while on a walk in the
country.
“This book of apple recipes will
open up new horizons to you for a
familiar, appealing, easy-to-find, and
easy-to-bake orchard fruit. We may
think we know everything there is to
know about apples, but there are surprises in store. The fascination grows
when you learn that there are some
twenty thousand varieties of apples
around the world, each with its distinctive features and uses.
“There are dessert apples, cooking
apples, apples for hard cider. Apples
have varying degrees of crispness,
softness, firmness, and juiciness;
they are sweet or sour, or both. Their
palette of colours ranges from grey to
red, with hues of green, yellow, and
orange. The recipes here include a
ll the textures that the art of pastrymaking can imbue: soft, crunchy,
smooth, liquefied, or quite simply,
crisp to the bite.
“I have included classic recipes such
as apple upside-down cake in its wellknown French version of Tarte Tatin,
traditional apple pie, candy apples
(pomme d’amour, “love apples” in
French), apple cheesecake, and several types of tart, but I have extended
the repertoire to create more unexpected recipes, both from home and
abroad: a trompe l’oeil apple ice cube,
peel tempura, apple gratin dauphinois, Hungarian apple soup.
“A few of France’s finest pastry
chefs, like Christelle Brua, Laurent
Jeannin, and Cédric Grolet have
entrusted me with some of their
secrets to share with you.”

Roasted Apple in
Chestnut Milk

Apples and chestnuts are not often
paired, but they make a fine duo, with
chestnut honey adding a note that is
rustic yet refined. All of the Pippin
varieties, the Chantecler, and heirloom
apples may be used for this recipe.
Serves 4
Ingredients
4 Pippin apples
2 eggs
100g chestnut honey, or other richly
flavoured honey
125g almond flour
80g butter
10 fresh chestnuts
100ml whole milk
100ml whipping cream, 35% butterfat
200g chestnut spread (crème de
marrons)
Olive oil to taste

Extract and recipes from Apples
by Christophe Adam, published
by Rizzoli, 2018. Photographs
by Laurent Fau

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
Peel the apples and core them with a
corer.
2. Whisk the eggs energetically with the
honey to dissolve it completely.
3. Dip the apples into the egg-honey

mixtu
almon
4. Place
and do
5. Bake f
on the
need t
to roa

For the c
While th
the oute
a small k
in boilin
and drai
When
remove
the ches
(3-mm)
ing shee
Place in
until nic

For the c
Bring th
and pou
Whisk
apple in
Pour the
with a lit
the ches

Food notes 13

ecember 2018

ure and then roll them in the
nd flour to coat.
the apples in an ovenproof dish
ot with a few knobs of butter.
for 30 to 40 minutes, depending
e size, until softened. You will
the oven at the same temperature
ast the chestnut chips.

chestnut chips
he apples are baking, remove
er shells of the chestnuts with
kitchen knife. Blanch them
ng water for 2 to 3 minutes
in.
they are cool enough to handle,
the skin with the knife tip. Cut
stnuts into slices about 1⁄8-inch
thick and place them on a baket lined with parchment paper.
the oven for 15–20 minutes,
cely browned, then remove.

chestnut milk
he milk and cream to a boil
ur over the chestnut spread.
k until combined and place each
the centre of a large bowl.
e chestnut milk around, drizzle
ittle olive oil, and garnish with
stnut chips.

Photo: isabelledenimal.over-blog.com

efs

Baby brioche is true taste
of a northern Christmas

In our new series providing a sideways look at French
food, we examine the north’s doughy dedication to Jesus

ust as nothing says ‘Easter’ quite like
a surfeit of chocolate eggs, few things
evoke the miracle birth of baby Jesus
quite like a sugar-coated brioche,
washed down with a steaming
cup of hot chocolate.
Which is why in the north of
France, usually from the beginning of December onwards – but
as early as St Martin’s Day (11 November) in some places – boulangeries will be serving up their own
particular version of a coquille or a
cougnou: a pastry formed into baby
shapes and sprinkled with sugar nibs.
Made with flour, eggs, milk, yeast, raisins
and sugar, a coquille is popular throughout
the low countries, especially Belgium.
The cooking and distribution of the cake
is a tasty blend of ritual and symbolism,
with some experts believing it even predates Christianity to Jewish Mishna

or Saturnalia, the Roman mid-winter
festival. Other historians believe that the
shape of the baby has over time morphed
from the original female adult form.
Later the writer Jacques Thiroux, in his
history of Lille published in 1730, wrote
about the celebrations that took place in
1579, during which small shell-shaped
cakes were thrown to the people below
from the city’s huge belfry.
As for its name, there are two
possible origins. The word coquille
(as used in coquille St Jacques,
a scallop) is a diminutive of
coque, meaning shell, the shape
that this cake originally took.
A second theory is that the
word comes from the Flemish and Dutch word kocke,
pronounced “couque”, and
which means cake.
Special moulds (inset) are
available in good kitchen shops, should
you wish to craft your own baby brioche
this festive season. Aim for a golden
crust, a yellowish interior and soft crumb.

Gadget inspector

Now available

Sweet! Precision cutter
gives éclairs a perfect finish

Noël house party is not
complete sans sweet treats

What do you buy the home cook who has
everything? If they want to create the best
possible patisserie, then what better gift
than a bespoke oval mould for the chocolate glazing on top of their delicious éclairs
– after all, it’s the detail that counts.
Made by family-owned firm Matfer
Bourgeat, the cutter includes a reinforcement belt to provide greater strength and
precision in cutting. Matfer serves the catering trade but products can be found on
many websites. €28.60, www.laboetgato.fr

As any self-respecting festive dinner host
is aware, offering a selection of post-prandial, fine French chocolates is an easy way
to melt the heart of any guest. Provençal
confiseur François Doucet is well known
for his candied fruits but other offerings are
equally appealing. This Ecrin festif (€20 for
250g) includes grape seeds macerated in
Marc de Champagne, dressed in marzipan
and then coated with chocolate, as well as
chocolate hazlenuts and pralines. Joyeux
Noël! www.francois-doucet.com

Food notes

Apple-Calvados Cake

A tart-tasting apple is ideal for this recipe: Belle de Boskoop, Reinette Grise du
Canada, Granny Smith, or any tangy heirloom varieties you might be lucky to find
– or just go ahead and use your favourite.
Makes one 7 to 7½inch (18 to 20cm) cake for six (use a springform pan)
Ingredients,
2 large apples
1 tablespoon lemon juice
30g butter
3 tablespoons Calvados or other apple brandy
Batter
80g almond paste, 52% almonds
150g all-purpose flour
80g sugar
11g baking powder (if you are using French sachets, 1 sachet)
2 extra-large eggs
150ml milk
80g unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus 20g butter for the pan
Topping
80g lightly salted butter, well softened
4 tablespoons light brown sugar
½ teaspoon cinnamon
Method for the apples
1. Peel the apples and cut them into thick slices, then into small dice.
2. Drizzle them with the lemon juice, tossing them well, so that they do not brown.
3. Melt the butter in a skillet and sauté the apple cubes for six minutes, until golden,
stirring carefully from time to time. Pour in the Calvados and carefully flambé the
contents of the skillet.
Method for the batter
1. Cut the almond paste into small cubes. Sift the flour.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, place the sifted
flour, sugar, and baking powder and beat just to combine. Add the eggs, one by
one, then 1 tablespoon (20 ml) of the milk.
3. When smooth, swap the paddle attachment for the whisk and pour in the
remaining milk. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a scraper or flexible
spatula to ensure that the milk is evenly incorporated. Whisk in the melted butter
and stop when just combined.
4. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter the base and sides of the springform
pan. Cut out a disk of parchment paper the same diameter, butter it, and place it,
butter side up, at the base of the pan.
5. Pour the batter into the pan, then arrange the apple cubes evenly over it,
without pushing them down. Bake for 35 minutes, keeping an eye on the colour.
Method for the topping
When the cake is almost baked, combine the salted butter with the light brown sugar
and cinnamon. As soon as the cake is done, spread this mixture over the top.

J

14 Marrons glacés

French Living I December 2018

Marrons glacés: sweet taste of success
Photos: Clement Faugier;

As we approach peak
marron glacé season,
Jane Hanks spoke to the
original transformers
of chestnuts into sweet
treats: Clément Faugier

M

arrons glacés are a
French speciality, eaten
at Christmas. The first
ever manufacturer was
Clément Faugier, at
Privas in the Ardèche and the company
has been making them since 1882. 95%
of their production is sold in a fifteen
day period at the beginning of December.
Jean-David Boiron, Managing Director
of Clément Faugier says they are strongly
linked with the festive season, firstly
because chestnuts are in season during
the winter, and secondly because it is a
luxury food: “Marrons glacés are appreciated as a gift because they are expensive
and this is because they are made by
hand and involve several stages in their
production, each one demanding a high
level of skill and time.”
First, he explains why they are called a
marron glacé and not a châtaigne glacée.
“We have two different names for the
fruit from the chestnut tree. If you have
ever picked chestnuts you may have
noticed that some casings contain two
or three small chestnuts, which are often
flat on one side, and some have just one,
which is rounder and fatter.
“The latter are the ones we call marrons
and which we use for our marrons glacés.
There are fewer marrons than châtaignes
and they are a better shape, though both
taste the same. We use the châtaignes
and any broken marrons for our Crème
de Marrons.”
Marrons glacés were first appreciated at
Versailles during the reign of Louis XIV

“

It is a very
time-consuming
process and there
are no short cuts

and a recipe for them was included in
a book about candied fruit, written by
Pierre Gaultier de Varennes in 1667.
In the late 19th century the thriving silk
worm industry in the
Ardèche was hit by disease and one man,
Clément Faugier,
came up with a
new way of making money which
could use both the
now unemployed
skilled workers
from the textile
industry and abundant
harvests from the local
chestnut trees. He developed a way
to produce marrons glacés in quantity,
and his methods are still used today.
The first of the many tricky tasks, once

the nut is revealed from the prickly casing, is to remove its two skins. First incisions are made in each nut. Then they are
either steamed or grilled at a very high
temperature which explodes the outer
skin and then the remains of the inner
skin are removed with brushes. “Even
then,” says Mr Boiron, “tiny bits of skin
will be left and these have to be taken off,
little by little by hand with a knife. It is a
very time consuming procedure and
there are no short cuts.”
They then have to be boiled in big vats
of boiling water for between three and six
hours. Another step which requires a
remarkable amount of care. “The marrons are extremely fragile and so they
are sewn, by hand, four at a time, into
tiny cotton bags, which are then placed
side by side, against each other so they
do not move in stainless steel containers
which are then put into the water.
“A confectioner needs years of experience to judge how long to cook the marrons, and length of time depends on the
nature of each batch. Getting it right is
essential to the success of the end product. This is because the principal of a
marron glacé is to preserve it by exchanging its water content with sugar. If it is
not cooked enough the sugar will not
go to the heart of the fruit, if it is
overcooked it will take on too
much sugar.”
After boiling, the marrons are
placed in vats of syrup, and the
glucose levels are increased over
a two to three day period until
the process is finished. This is
another stage when the confectioner needs to use all his experience to
know when enough is enough.
“Every chestnut is different,” says Mr
Boiron. “Their composition depends on
many factors during their development
on the tree, including the weather that
year and their position on the tree. It is

Above: An original
presentation box
illustration from
Faugier in Privas;
Right and inset:
Putting marrons
in cotton bags
before boiling;
the final product
ready for Christmas

a natural product and so variable and
that has to be taken into account during
the process.”
Once “confit”, the marrons are left in
buckets of syrup to mature “just like wine
in oak barrels”, and then, finally they can
be taken out of their little bags. Another
time consuming procedure as they are
quality controlled
one by one and
any broken pieces
are rejected and
used for other
products.
They are then
ready for the last
procedure before
being packaged.
This is a final very
thin coating of
sugar which is set
during a brief passage in an oven
and which was
invented in the
1950s to prevent stickiness when
handling and to give them a glossy
appearance.
However, Mr Boiron says they are very
careful to avoid adding too much sugar:
“Cheaper marrons glacés, which are often
imported from Italy and Spain have a
much higher ratio of sugar in them as
sugar costs far less a kilo than chestnuts,
but for me it makes them far too sweet.
“What I love about our marrons glacés
are that each one is unique and I love
to see them before the final sugar layer
when their different textures and shapes
make them look like a sculpture.”
Mr Boiron says it is increasingly difficult to get good quality marrons. He
knows all about chestnuts as he comes
from a family who has been in the business since 1807. His family worked closely together with the Faugier family from
the very beginning and via the marriage

of one of his aunts, the enterprise, still
called Clément Faugier, is run by the
Boiron family.
Whilst chestnuts were abundant in the
19th century, it is a different story now
as chestnuts are yet another European
species threatened by the introduction of
pests from overseas. The Asian Chestnut
Gall Wasp arrived
in Italy 12 years ago
and is now throughout Europe. There is
no real antidote and
Mr Boiron says they
are having to learn
to live with it.
The long procedure and increasing
rarity of the marrons is reflected in
their price – around
€100 a kilo, compared to €60-70
a kilo for mass produced ones. You can
buy them via the internet from Clément
Faugier whole or broken and in wooden,
paper or tin boxes.
You could pay just over €100 for a
wooden box containing 84 individually
wrapped whole chestnuts or 1kg of broken pieces in a plain paper box for €25
or just three perfect ones for €4,50.
They keep for five weeks if kept in a
cool place.
They are a luxury for Christmas that
Mr Boiron continues to appreciate: “I
like to cut them in half first to see their
slightly shiny texture. They melt in the
mouth, though each one is different and
some are firmer than others and you can
enjoy the subtle chestnut taste.”
The fruit itself is very good for you
with plenty of vitamin C and fibres and
no gluten. Marrons glacés are a friandise
[sweet treat] to be eaten for pleasure,
but not a guilty pleasure.

Wine and Cheese 15
Photos: Jonathan Hesford; Pixabay

December 2018 I French Living

E

rick Schreiber produces
biodynamic champagne from
his own 6.5 hectare vineyard
in Champagne, 45km south of
Troyes in the Vallée de la Seine.
“I can’t explain why, but I always wanted
to make wine. Ever since I was a kid, it
was my dream, even though my family
have nothing to do with wine production.
So when I left school I trained at college,
and in 1987 I planted my vines and set up
my own production.”
He now produces 35,000 bottles of
Champagne Schreiber per year, most of it
sold in France both to hospitality professionals and the general public, although
he also exports extensively.
He goes to several large wine fares as well
every year in order to publicise his wines,
which are ‘biodynamic’ – which is close
but not exactly the same thing as being
organic. ‘Biodynamic’ viticulture means
cultivating wines according to principles
laid out by Rudolf Steiner (who also set up
Steiner Schools) – which treats soil fertility
and plant growth as interrelated.
Biodynamic viticulture focusses on the
use of compost and manure instead of
artificial chemicals. It works in harmony
with the lunar calendar, and uses herbal
and mineral additive for field sprays.
Overall, the idea is to harness the forces
of nature in a holistic way in order to
produce the best, most natural crops
whilst also taking care of the soil.
The aim is to connect rich, bio-diverse
soil to the light and the rain which fall
from the sky. So far, so good, but some
elements of the theory stray into spiritual,
mystical and astrological territory, leading
critics to scoff at the method. In blind
tastings, however, biodynamic wines
consistently outdo wines produced by
more mainstream methods.
“We went biodynamic in 1990, and it
works for us,” says Erick Schreiber. “I don’t
want to say biodynamic wines are better;
they’re just different. More expressive,
more drinkable.” His wines are Demeter
certified biodynamic as well as organic,
making them as natural as a wine can be.
Erick Schreiber is proud of them, and
also of his son Gaël who plans to take
over the business. Many people drink
Champagne at Christmas and New Year,
but he says that it can be enjoyed all year
round. “Champagne can be drunk at any
occasion, from apéros right through to
pudding,” he says. ‘And most of it can be
drunk at any time of the day!’

Photo: Maison de la truffe

Meet the producers

Artisan cheese
of the month:
Brie truffé

When the cheeseboard
comes out at a New Year
party, the canniest of
gourmands around the
table will seek out the
shining beacon of seasonal indulgence: Brie truffé.
This luxurious blend of
delicately creamy Brie de
Meaux, which has been
sliced horizontally and
slathered with an unctuous blend of cream or
mascarpone and chopped
black truffle is an indulgent, if acquired taste
and very rich.
For an artisanal touch,
try the truffled cheeses
made by Gilles Cénéri
at La Crèmerie Royale –
the family has boasted a
Master Cheesemaker for
three generations. Their
twist is the use of olive oil
and a little white truffle.

Local speciality:
Paupiettes
de Veau

Paupiettes de veau are
veal olives (rolled or
stuffed veal fillets) that
can be cooked and
served in an array of
sauces. A la Normande
is the Normandy version
– made with onion, tomato, herbs, butter and
flour, cider (or wine)
and cream from Isigny.
Available to buy ready
to reheat from www.
bienmanger.com

Some of the fizzies that Jonathan
keeps in his own wine cellar

Are cheaper bubble options any good?
There are lower cost fizzy alternatives with plenty to offer says Jonathan Hesford
A year in the vineyard

L

ast month I wrote about the
way Champagne is made and
what makes it special. This
month I am going to talk
about how those special things
do make a difference to the taste and
what alternative sparkling wines are on
the market.
When I buy a bottle of Champagne, I
am hoping for several things. Firstly, I
want to be able to smell a sort of biscuity
aroma mingled with creamy, delicate
fruit. I then want the wine to have
vibrant, refreshing acidity, for it to taste
dry without being drying and for the
bubbles to give it a fine mousse, rather
than a powerful fizz.
The peculiar aroma of biscuits or
cream crackers comes from autolysis.
This is the process where the dead yeast,
which was in the bottle during the secondary fermentation, breaks down and
releases amino acids and other molecules into the wine.
Champagne isn’t the only sparkling
wine that is made by secondary fermentation in the bottle. Cava, made mainly
in the Catalan region of Spain, uses the
same method but with different grape
varieties. Cava is made from Macabeu,
Parellada and Xarello. The best Cavas,

“

While Champagne
occupies the top
rung of the ladder,
there are some
interesting Crémant
alternatives from
other regions

often from base wines aged in oak, are
rich and textured. However, a lot of the
cheaper, mass-produced versions are
just fizzy wines which lack the crispness
and freshness of Champagne.
Limoux, in the Languedoc Pyrenees,
claims to have invented the bottle-fermenting method of making sparkling
wine decades before Champagne.
Unfortunately it chose to use the
Mauzac grape, which is rather bland and
seems to give the wine a slightly stale
apple aroma. In recent times,
Chardonnay and Chenin blanc have
been planted in Limoux to help improve
the flavour and freshness of the wines.
Today you can buy both the traditional
Mauzac-dominated version, known as
Blanquette de Limoux, or the Crémant
de Limoux which has a majority of
Chardonnay, supplemented by
Chenin blanc and Mauzac .
There is also a Limoux
style called Méthode
Ancestrale where the wine
is not disgorged after bottle fermentation, leaving
the yeast in the bottle and
therefore potentially making
the wine cloudy, just like in
bottle-fermented beers. This
gives a distinctly powerful aroma from
the yeast autolysis after a period of time.
Méthode Ancestrale has found a new
lease of life outside Limoux in trendy
“Pet-Nat” wines. This is short for
Pétillant Naturel. They can be made
by bottling partially-fermented wine
or by adding juice or sugar to the bottle,
resulting in wines that are cloudy, rustic
and fun.
The term “Crémant” is used to
describe all forms of bottle-fermented
sparkling French wines that are not
Champagne. They are controlled by
AOP rules and use local grape varieties.
Therefore Crémant de Bourgogne uses
Pinot noir and Chardonnay (just like
Champagne), Crémant d’Alsace adds
Riesling and Pinot gris. Crémant de
Loire is based mainly on Chenin blanc
with Chardonnay and Cabernet franc.
Crémants are also made in Bordeaux,
Savoie and Jura. They may be dry or

demi-sec, often annoyingly omitted from
the label.
Vouvray, along with neighbouring
Montlouis, is another sparkling wine
from the Loire which is uniquely
Chenin blanc and made with the
Champagne method. The Loire has
other sparkling wines from Anjou,
Saumur and Touraine. These wines
use the term “Mousseux”, which means
the bubbles are created not by the traditional Champagne method of bottle-fermentation.
They are made using the Charmat
method, where the wine is refermented
in a large, pressurised tank and bottled
directly. These wines therefore don’t benefit from any yeast autolysis and are
therefore simpler in nature. They should
also be cheaper because the process is so much quicker.
Prosecco and Asti
Spumante are also made
in this way.
Finally there are sparkling wines made without any secondary fermentation but by the
same technique as fizzy
water, by injecting carbon
dioxide. These represent the
bottom end of the market both in
terms of price and taste. They can be
made from virtually any base wine from
anywhere in France. They are usually
just labelled by their colour and level
of sweetness.
So while Champagne occupies the top
rung of the ladder in both price and
quality, there are interesting Crémant
alternatives from other regions that
often represent better value for money
for a celebratory drink than the bigbrand Champagnes. While for those on
a particularly tight budget there are carbonated wines that may be sufficient for
a teenage party.
Jonathan Hesford has a Postgraduate
Diploma in Viticulture and Oenology
from Lincoln University, New Zealand
and is the owner, vigneron and winemaker of Domaine Treloar in the Roussillon –
visit www.domainetreloar.com.

16 Homes

French Living I December 2018

Converted mill has style and comfort
Photos: Claire Richardson

Author Josephine Ryan
explores a renovated
rural home and finds
plenty of inspiration
for antique buys

L

a Fabrique is set deep in the
French countryside in a lush,
green valley, with a fast-flowing
river running alongside. From
the outside, the building looms
up, large and imposing, giving no indication of the chic and whimsical family
home inside.
La Fabrique is enormous. The home
(and antiques business) of Bernard and
Maxime Cassagnes was originally a paper
mill, hence its size. Bernard, a trained
architect, bought the 1890s mill in its
original state and moved there in 1981;
Max, his bohemian wife, joined him in
1985. Using his architectural skills and
unerring eye, Bernard has created a truly
remarkable and unusual home.
Famous in the trade as Le Baron, a term
of affection given to him by his fellow
architecture students, Bernard runs his
antiques business from the mill. His speciality is art forain – fairground art – and
there are plenty of examples in the shop,
as well as in the living space, but he deals
in all things large, strange and beautiful.
The couple live in only a small section
of the building, although the ghosts of
the mill workers seem ever-present in the
cave beneath the living accommodation.
This huge vaulted cellar is where Bernard
stores his restoration equipment, from
piles of wood and crates of chair springs
to sheets of mirror and antique glass
panels. Small in stature but larger than
life, Bernard is passionate about his collections and never throws anything away,
believing that there’s a use for everything.
The faded red front door with a
Georgian fanlight opens onto a gargantuan hallway, where you are greeted by
a giant-sized plaster theatre prop of St
Marc Antoine. The ground floor is shop
space, complete with
a pou du ciel (flying
flea) aeroplane and a
church organ.
A sweeping staircase with beautiful,
aged wooden treads
leads to a small door
to the living space,
with a discreet notice
requesting incomers
to Essuyez vos pieds
(Wipe your feet).
Although taking up
only a fraction of the
mill, the living space
is vast. Absolutely
immaculate, it is in
contrast to those
areas used as work,
storage or shop
space, and equally, if
not more, beguiling.
In the kitchen/
breakfast room/dining room, collections of stuffed reptiles
cling to the back of the door, while the
mix of wine and beautiful glass apothecary bottles displayed on a shelf beneath
a stuffed fish is the lightest decorative
touch. The main dining table is covered
with a 19th-century yellow embroidered
cloth from Morocco. The disguise is appropriate for more sensitive diners – the

Get the look
table was originally an operating table –
but for those with a hospital background,
it is only partial, because the pedals are
still visible. To complete the scene, there
is an operating theatre light above.
Outside the window is a long cord
attached to a brass bell that Max pulls to
summon Bernard to the phone or for dinner. Off this room, an enormous terrace
overlooks the river where Max swims in
the summer.
The grand salon
is, as its name might
suggest, the biggest
room of all, with a
beautiful polished
wood floor, which
means that shoes
are forbidden. It is
dominated by a coffee table made from
a roulette board of
inlaid wood, covered
with glass for protection. Even the humdrum is disguised to
look attractive: the
television is hidden
behind tall double
doors, and the heater
on the window wall is
covered by an ornate
ironwork grille. This
originally formed
part of the Art Nouveau arch above the
entrance to one of the Paris Metro stations,
designed by Hector Guimard in 1900. All
this is presided over by a 1930s life-size
equestrian statue of Maréchal de Bassompierre, used as an advertising emblem for
Vin tonique de la Durante.
Climbing the creaky staircase to the
next floor, one is greeted by two stuffed
lions flanking a door.

Above: The main
bedroom is calm and
intimate. With low
ceilings and panelling, there is little to
distract from slumber
bar a large painting
Inset: The white-tiled
kitchen has a clinical
feel – utilitarian,
practical and lowmaintenance

Extracted from
Essentially French
by Josephine Ryan
with photography
by Claire Richardson (published by
Ryland, Peters
and Small).

With their back halves missing, they
look as if they’re emerging through the
wall. As you go through the door, you feel
as though you’re entering the world of
Narnia. Eight rooms, including bedrooms, Max’s studio and a huge bathroom, lead off the long corridor.
The magnificent slate-floored bathroom
has a bank of four basins set in marble
and lit by bare-bulb lights, creating the
magical feel of a theatre dressing room.
The claw-foot, cast-iron bath offers an
unobstructed view of the river and countryside beyond – utterly romantic. If time
is short, there’s also a walk-in shower with
antique fittings and slate walls. The equally
impressive bathroom on the ground floor
has ochre-yellow walls and an enormous
red, antique cast-iron slipper bath.
The master bedroom has an intimate
feel, with beautiful wide wood floorboards and subtle paintwork in cream
and yellow. The conservatory off the
room, a 1920s addition, is home to Max’s
impressive collection of orchids and pelargoniums. The windowless guest room
is illuminated by a huge, square skylight.
An eccentric collection of antique musical instruments is displayed on one of the
walls, beneath which there is a beautiful
miniature carousel.
Max’s studio is reached through two
impressive Art Nouveau doors and by
tripping across a seemingly enchanted
doormat. One step on it and the lights go
on; step on it again as you leave and the
lights go out!
Antiques dealers could be described as
the last gypsies or consummate recyclers,
and Bernard must be the ultimate example of both. Although a self-confessed
hoarder, he has a sophisticated eye, which
is immediately apparent as you step
through from the business part of the
mill to their elegant home.

With nifty French high street and online
purchases, you can steal the stripped-back,
simple style of La Fabrique. Prices and
availability correct at time of going to press.
Make light work
The clinical feel
of Bernard and
Maxime’s kitchen
is lent industrial cool by the
use of a former
surgeon’s lamp.
As an alternative,
try this €109 zinc
suspension light,
called ‘Hector’,
from www.lumidora.com
Get that sink king feeling
Add to the
modern
utilitarian
feel of La
Fabrique’s
kitchen with
a simple white
evier (sink). This one from Leroy Merlin
is called ‘Trendy’ and costs €249.90.
www.leroymerlin.fr
Duvet dreams
Uncomplicated layers of
grey elegance
complement
stripped
floorboards in
the bedroom.
This Scenario
duvet cover
(housse de
couette) costs
€27.99 from
www.laredoute.fr

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18 Puzzles

French Living I December 2018

Bilingual cryptic crossword

by Parolles
Answers are in French and English
Across

Down

1 The best part about the earliest of engines
becoming obsolete in France (6)
4 Parolles taking in leading Parisian market (6)
8 Six sons going around Swiss town to find
what Joan of Arc had (7)
9 Right to include time on the way back to
meet volunteers for sporting event (7)
11 I’m to consider describing current fashion as
extravagant (10)
12 Rubbish about imprisoning unionist in
Saint-Jacque’s tower (4)
13 Fight to establish oddly ignored ethos (3-2)
14 Language lab created by an American in
Split (8)
16 Bill returned leaflet covering a condition of
the eye (8)
18 Free French leaders of Limoges insurgents
backing resistance enthusiastically (5)
20 Go over rule with Marcel’s father (4)
21 Acknowledgement of reproduction of
carcinogens right away (10)
23 Prost’s back with a posh car that’s extremely
reliable (7)
24 Unexpected advantages attached to lining
large passenger carrying vehicles (7)
25 Small slice left by fictional detective (6)
26 French butter and beer produced outside
ancient town (6)

1 Answer framed by prudishly disapproving
Trojan king (5)
2 Rex struggled by the sound of it to obtain
first-class horseradish in Lille (7)
3 Nominate Dicky to tour South American
state (9)
5 Hubert’s bitter about mother turning up with
Earl (5)
6 Discipline fictional detective after loss of
new gun (7)
7 A group of attendants on either side of the
Channel (9)
10 The first couple in profit switching places to
make more in Nantes (9)
13 Caught with odd musical
instrument (5,4)
15 City fellows overwhelmed by
steep-fronted wave (9)
17 Tale about the queen obtaining one
from Poussin’s studio (7)
19 Hold up French artist say to a bit of
ridicule (7)
21 Former US president runs
off with de Gaulle’s map (5)
22 Hint of circumspection
with reference to note
showing duc de Bourgogne’s
crest (5)

?

?

?

French-themed crossword

by John Foley
Note all answers are words or names associated with France
Across

Down

1 Small quantity, just to give a taste (7)

1 Acronym for the salaire minimum (4)

3 Marque de politesse ou de respect (5)

2 Kitchen master (4)

6 What the mirror reflects (5)

3

8 Common street name (3)
9 Où le soleil se lève (3)
11 Paris-born composer Ferdinand ______,
best known today for the ballet La fille mal
gardée (6)
14 Spa city in North Rhine-Westphalia other
wise known as Aix-la-Chapelle (6)
15 Cunning carnivore – au museau pointu et au
pelage roux (6)
18 Title for une femme mariée (6)
19 Potent spirit absinthe once known as ‘la ___
verte’ (3)
20 One that is faux confuses English prune with
French prune (3)
23 To clean or scrape out (5)
24 For some people, this is all you need (5)
25 Quantity of wood – wise to order an extra
one for the winter (5)
26 Young artillery officer Alfred _______,
whose trial and conviction for treason
created a political scandal (7)

Q: The place on which the city hall sits was renamed in 1803. But what did
it used to be called and what was its linguistic significance?

THE annual literary Prix
Goncourt, is France’s
most prestigious award
for prose. Since 1903 it
has been handed out by
the Goncourt Academy,
created by writer and
publisher Edmond Louis
Antoine Huot de Goncourt.
Q: For which book did Marcel
Proust win the prize in 1919?

Former burlesque dancer and
model Dita Von Teese released
her first,
self-titled album in February
2018.
Q: Which French singer, who represented his country at the 2008
Eurovision Song Contest (pictured) –
in a left-field move for the mainstream
event – wrote and produced the
record?

Since 1357, Paris City Hall has been
the seat of Parisian municipal power.
The current neo-Renaissance-style
building was rebuilt by architects
Théodore Ballu and Edouard
Deperthes on the site of the former
Town Hall, which was burned down
during the Paris Commune in 1871.

Guess the region...
France has 13 regions, some recently
formed by combining previous ones.
Every issue we pick a spot, all you need
to do is work out which region it is in...

Clue: Mille ans de Martin

Test your knowledge of France with our Connexion quiz

6 Which Olympic hurdles gold medallist
and former Minister for Youth and
Sport was convicted of dishonest
political dealings in 2005 but received
a controversial pardon from Jacques
Chirac?
7

The richest woman in history
according to Forbes magazine in 2017,
95 year-old Liliane Bettencourt is the
daughter of the founder of which
French cosmetics company?

12 Completed in 1998, extended in
2007, and running between the
Saint-Lazare and Olympiades
stations, what is currently the
highest numbered line on the
Paris Métro?
13 What is the name of the French
Academy of Magic which sends
Fleur Delacour to compete in the
Triwizard Tournament in Harry
Potter and the Goblet of Fire?
14 Anvers is the French name for
which major port city situated
in one of France’s neighbouring
countries?

19 A medley of songs by which duo
was played at the Bastille Day
parade by a composite French
military band as part of Donald
Trump’s state visit to France in July
2017?
20 What was the surname of the
defiantly nonconformist
Canadian ice dance pair
Paul and Isabelle
who won an Olympic
silver medal in
1992, after switching
to their mother’s country,
France?

?

?

Answers

What nine-letter French word used in
English for a nickname, differs from a
nom-de-plume in that it emphasises or
mythologises identity, rather than
disguising it?

18 Which elegant actress and model
known professionally by a one-word
name, was the only French cast
member credited in the original
Pink Panther film, in which she
played Clouseau’s wife?

Guess the region
Abbey of Saint-Martin-du-Canigou in
Pyrénées-Orientales, Occitanie.
It was first consecrated in November 1009.

5

11 In 2011, in the first ever episode of
the BBC TV show Fake or Fortune?,
the Wildenstein Institute in Paris
controversially refused to authenticate
a 19th century painting by which
artist?

17 Stretching from the Pyrenees as
far north as Anjou, what is the name
of the new administrative région
of south-west France, now the
country’s largest in area, whose
préfecture is in Bordeaux?

Photo: Pixabay

Jesuit missionary Jacques Marquette
together with explorer Louis Jolliet are
credited with being the first Europeans
to visit and map the northern reaches
of which major world river, in 1673?

10 What French six-letter word used
in English to describe barely
acceptable sexual suggestiveness –
often in comedy - has none of the
same connotation when used in
French?

16 In a mutual display of cross-Channel
respect through language, what is
the equivalent English term for the
unsanctioned act which the French
call filer à l’anglaise?

Which French-born writer whose
relationship with Henry Miller was
chronicled in her diaries, also had
erotic short story collections such as
Delta of Venus published after her
death in 1977?

Take the first letter
from the answers to the
questions indicated below
and rearrange the letters
to spell out the name of a
département of northern
France. When a person is
the answer, use the first
letter of their surname.
Questions 2, 3, 5, 9, 10,
14, 17, 19

What name would an English-speaking
musician give to the orchestral
instrument known in French as the
cor d’harmonie?

Fun French facts
1 In the 17th century it was called Place de Grève,
the word for gravel or fine shingle. Workers would
head there to find work.. 2 À l’ombre des jeunes
filles en fleurs (Within a Budding Grove) 3 Sébastien
Tellier.

French Living I December 2018
The Queen’s Embroiderer, Joan DeJean, Bloomsbury Publishing, $30 ISBN: 978-1-63286-474-1
THIS UNUSUAL non-fiction book gives a unique
insight into life in the 17th-18th centuries, from
Versailles to Louisiana, via research into a ‘Romeo
and Juliet’ tale the author came across by accident.
Working in the national archives she found a letter
appointing one Jean Magoulet as embroiderer to
Louis XIV’s queen - and then saw a royal decree to
lock up his daughter and send her to the colonies...
The book details the lives of the Chevrots and
Magoulets, who rose to riches in finance and
embroidery, and in particular Louis and Louise
who fell in love against their fathers’ wishes.
Embroidery was a key way in which wealth was

displayed and the ‘Sun King’ himself ‘seemed
garbed solely in gold and silver, reflecting light at
every turn’. When ‘a taste for fabulous garments’
spread to the middle class too, the haute couture
industry was born, but no modern fashion compares to the extravagance of outfits, which could
include over 10 pounds of precious thread.
Despite success the Magoulets and Chevrots
got into trouble with risky stock market investments and were ruthless with disobedient family.
This densely researched book is not a light read
but is full of first-hand glimpses into what life was like
in the days of the most famous of all royal courts.

Editor’s
choice

Books – The 20 minute review

We read recent releases with a link to France. To be fair, each gets 20 minutes’ reading time
Stéphane Brizé; 113 mins
Four years after making the emotionally
gripping and socially charged unemployment drama La Loi du Marché, director
Brizé again teams up with actor Vincent
Lindon to bring another visceral tale of
striking and job loss to the screen.
A German-owned car parts factory in
Agen with 1,100 staff is under new threat
of closure, despite its management team
having agreed only two years prior that
that employees could stay on for five
years if they agreed to wage cuts and
waived bonuses. Now the firm is citing
impossible market conditions and wants
to pull the plug. Cue union anger.
Union boss Laurent Amédéo is played
with a brilliant sense of betrayal and
later desperation, by the intense and
macho Lindon, who must attack not only
the bosses but also a slowly drifting sense
of defeatism amongst his own colleagues.
There is a lot of shouting at picket lines,
and anger spills into violence (which further alienates the public and some unions
members), making this a difficult film to
watch at times.
However, what it does achieve is to
bring a human story to the often clichéd
notion of ‘the French on strike again’, and
to cast light on modern labour relations.
Many of the actors playing supporting
roles are amateurs or actual factory workers, bringing Loach-like authenticity.

Also out: La Mante (The Mantis)

This thrilling Netflix drama is also now
out on DVD. So binge-watch as Carole
Bouquet plays a terrifying killer behind
bars whose crimes are being copied by a
new serial killer. But maybe she can help...

BRITISH novelist
Sebastian Faulks,
known for historical novels set in
France, has this
time chosen a setting in the recent
past. The book
tells intertwining
tales of a Moroc­
can man and an
American woman
in Paris, taking us to districts away from
the tourist trail, with a gritty, realistic feel.
Tariq hides on a freight ship to Marseille
and hitches to Paris seeking opportunities
and to see where his mother grew up. But
his first experiences, of messy service station loos and tasteless plastic-wrapped
sandwiches, are unglamorous.
Post-doctoral history student Hannah, is
back to meet survivors of the Nazi occupation after her last stay ended with an
unnamed trauma a few years ago. She
picks up the threads of her old life as she
meets with a British friend now living
over a brasserie in a northern district after
splitting up with his wealthy French wife.
Talk turns to literary eccentrics, like
Gérard de Nerval, who was known for
walking his pet lobster on a pink string.
Creating an itinerary around the capital,
each chapter is named after a Metro station in an area which features in it.
The low-key and unromanticised start,
with realistic and nuanced characters creates interest to find out more about how
their lives develop in the capital and
where (and why) they go next.

COINCIDENTALLY this book by American
writer Jane Delury also starts with a young
American woman coming to France, but this
time to stay in a village outside Paris as an au
pair (she dreams she will integrate, perfect
her French and later become a Frenchwoman
with a flat overlooking the Seine, with lovers
and fresh croissants every day).
The jacket blurb says she stays on a small
estate – but rather than some tower block in a
banlieue the story revolves around a country
manor house with sprawling grounds and staff cottages.
Delury is a prize-winning writer of short stories and while this is
described as her first ‘novel’, in fact each chapter deals with different
episodes in the history of the place and the stories of those who
have lived here. The opening chapter sets the scene and gives hints
and snippets from history of what is to come. The balcony of the
title is clearly a focal point, being a distinctive feature from which
one can look out across a pond and woods which we can tell – from
chapter names – will feature again in future (or past) episodes.
In one of the vivid descriptions which are a feature of Delury’s
style, we are told it has an iron railing “which was supported by
spindles that looped and twisted in a rusted web” and which had
originally been designed to resemble silk thread by the first owner
who made his money in silk.
However in the opening story, in 1992, it is a place of faded glories, whose statues and valuable furniture were stolen after it was
abandoned post-war when its then owners, Russian Jews, family
of the current owners, were deported to a concentration camp.
There are enjoyable details as the au pair, who finds herself attracted to her intellectual, alcoholic employer, discovers French life
(learning to make home-made crêpes and mayonnaise...) and some
ominous evocations of historic traumas (the society courtesan who
leapt from the balcony; a tragedy associated with the lake…) which
leave us interested to read on. However it seems the estate will be
the main character, not the people – who will change from section
to section, and after we leave the former au pair in a disillusioned
middle age, still in France, one is left wondering if it will be enough
to hold our attention to the end.

From Source to Sea, Valerie
Thompson, Valerie-thompson.
co.uk £14.99 ISBN: 978-0244-68951-3
YOU feel a little bombarded with French
history when reading the opening chapter
of this book – if going for French nationality it is ideal pre­
paration for a prefecture interview…
This labour of love
is based on notes
made while exploring the Dordogne
river, supplemented
by reading of books
by past travellers.
The account opens
with Ligurians from
Italy, described as the first settlers to the
south-west known to the history books,
followed by waves of Celts and Germanic
tribes. Interestingly, we learn that the river
has two sources up adjacent Auvergne
mountains, the Dore and Dogne, which
mingle in the valley at the start of the river’s journey to the sea north of Bordeaux.
The book is full of historical anecdotes
from how Vercin­getorix, who united the
Gauls against Caesar, came from the area,
the first skiers on the mountains there put
cowskin on their skis to go uphill and
patients at the spa at Mont Dore, one of
the first settlements along the route, used
to have to wear white outfits with felt
boots and ‘pointed elf hats’ at all times.
This ‘fluvial adventure’ would especially
appeal to those who love the area and
want to know more but also has enough
to interest other readers who enjoy learning new facts about France. It is illustrated
by the author’s own deft drawings.

Become practised in the fine art of receiving
Language notes

T

is the season for giving (une
période de partage) so in the festive spirit, here we share some
handy phrases based on themes
of generosity and gratitude.
The first point is generic: how to be grateful (reconnaissant) when you benefit from
un beau geste (a simple act of kindness or a
nice gesture). Perhaps the most important
lesson is similar to the English: ‘do not look
a gift horse in the mouth’. In French, it is ‘à
cheval donné on ne regarde pas les dents’ –
which contains specific instructions to not
look at said gift horse’s teeth!
Want to say thanks? “Merci pour le
cadeau!” is the obvious one while a ‘gift that
keeps on giving’ might be translated as “le
cadeau qui dure toute l’année” (the gift that
lasts all year). A nice way to express hearty
gratitude in an informal setting without

“

The French
say ‘Do not
look at a
gift horse’s
teeth’

using the stock ‘Merci beaucoup’ is to say
‘Mille fois merci’ (‘A thousand thanks’)
or ‘Merci infiniment’ (‘Thanks a lot’),
while more formal is “Avec tous mes
remerciements” (‘With all my thanks’).
How about phrases relating to those
less generous of spirit? There is a popular saying that goes: “Donner c’est donner,
reprendre c’est voler”, meaning “to give
is to give, to take back is to steal”.
Likewise, someone can take the idea
of receiving a little too far: “Give him an
inch and he’ll take a mile”, we would say
– this is translated as: “Donnez-leur en
long comme le doigt, ils en prendront long
comme le bras” – meaning ‘give them a
finger and they’ll take an arm’.
We must leave the final word to the
late, great and very generous Abbé
Pierre, founder of Emmaüs: “On n’est
jamais heureux que dans le bonheur
qu’on donne. Donner, c’est recevoir.”
‘We are only ever happy in the happiness
we give. Giving is receiving.’

Shopping/Did you know? 21

December 2018 I French Living

The Waldseemüller map from
1507 is known as the first map
to use the name “America”

New products, designs and ideas from around France

Pure fabrication

Toulemonde bochart has been
making rugs since 1946 and today
works alongside renowned designers to create original, contemporary
designs. Among these creative
minds is Florence Bourel, whose
dazzling Japanese-motifed Osaka
rug (pictured) is crafted
from New
Zealand wool
and silk.
This is
among the
many high
quality, Frenchmade products
sold by La
Camif, an online
shop for decoration, furnishings and equipment for
interior and exterior use.
The website, which has over 8,000
‘Made in France’ products, emphasizes quality, durability and a sense
of environmental responsibility.
Osaka rug from €1,150.
www.camif.fr

When 13 is lucky for some
THE RITUAL scoffing of 13 desserts following a Christmas feed
in Provence has assumed legendary status, in both the gluttony
and taste sensation stakes. Variations on the dishes’ content vary
locally but usually they include dried fruit and nuts like figs and
almonds (said to represent monks) as well as sweeter treats such
as calissons d’Aix and candied fruit.
Bringing this tradition to the table in a handy ‘coffret’ is notable
purveyor of sweet treats Le Roy René. The box includes calissons,
nougat, dried figs and apricots, dates, slices of candied orange
and clementines, fruit pastes, almonds, hazelnuts and raisins.
www.calisson.com

Finders keepers

America got its name
from a French town
Did you know?

French TECH innovators are very good
at finding simple solutions for everyday
problems – none of which is more annoying
or inconvenient than losing a purse, wallet
or passport.
An example of this ‘can-solve’ attitude is
Wistiki Hopla!. This slim tracking device
with aesthetic input from by Philippe Starck
combines elegance with technology to
ensure important items can always be found
– just use an app on your smartphone to
call it or vice-versa for a lost phone.
At just €39.99, this is the ideal Christmas
gift for travellers, absent-minded or not.
www.wistiki.com

Welcome
to the fold!
Bernard the fox, Edward the
panda, Gaston the raccoon – these
are all popular members of the 3D
animal family created by Agent
Paper, an eco-friendly brand of stationery and creative leisure products enjoying great success after
launching in Rennes, Brittany.
The environmental angle is clever –
the company uses unwanted paper
stock from local supplier Micro Lynx
and transforms it into postcards,
notepads, diaries and calendars.
Its most popular products, however, are the decorative 3D folded (by
you!) animals which can be put on
the wall – friendlier in so many
ways than taxidermy versions! Fox,
€35: 50cm tall, 40cm deep; build
time around three hours.
www.agentpaper.com

A

small town in the Vosges,
not far from Strasbourg,
is famous for having given
America its name. In 1507
a map was printed in
Saint-Dié-des-Vosges which was the
first one to include a fourth continent
in addition to Europe, Asia and Africa.
The name America is written on this
new piece of land.
The map was the work of a German
cartographer, Martin Waldseemüller,
who was one of a group of scholars
called the Gymnasium Vosagense
which met at Saint-Dié-des-Vosges.
A book explaining the map was
published at the same time and was
most likely written by another member
of the group, German humanist,
Matthias Ringmann.
The map and book were based on
documents and discoveries from the
late fifteenth and the first years of the
sixteenth centuries and included data
gathered during the Italian Amerigo
Vespucci’s voyages of 1501-1502 to the
New World.
When Christopher Columbus died in
1506, he still thought he had found a
new way to reach Asia and so it is not
he, but Amerigo Vespucci, who is recognised as the first man to have discov-

ered the existence of a fourth continent. In the book, written in Latin, a
passage suggests this new landmass
should be named after the man who
discovered it and as the other three
continents have feminine names
Europa, Africa and Asia, Amerigo is
changed to America.
It was a huge leap forward in knowledge, describing a new continent and
the Pacific as a separate ocean. At that
time the accepted knowledge of the
shape of the world was still based on
the second century AD work of the
Greek geographer, Claudius Ptolemy.
It is thought that 1,000 copies of the
map were made, but only one has survived and it is kept in the Library of
Congress in Washington under its full
title Universalis Cosmographia
Secundum Ptholomaei Traditionem et
Americi Vespucii Aliorum que lustrationes, St Dié, 1507. (A drawing of the
whole earth following the tradition of
Ptolemy and the travels of Amerigo
Vespucci and others). The map is
regarded as America’s birth certificate
and in 2003 the library paid 10 million
dollars to have it in its collection.
At Saint-Dié-des-Vosges visitors to
the library can see a copy of the map
and one of the original books that went
with it. Alexandre Jury, responsible for
the town’s written heritage says it is not
clear why the town was chosen for the
publication of the document, though it
was a known centre for intellectuals.

Map: Martin Waldseemüller/Library of Congress

QUOI DE NEUF?

22 History

French Living I December 2018

The aristocrat revolutionary
turned angel of assassination
Revolutionary figure Charlotte Corday is known for murdering a rival political figure in his bathtub.
Samantha David looks at her extraordinary, if short, life and what motivated her ultimately fruitless act
in Caen, she became a strong supporter
of their faction.
Initially, the Girondins had been pretty
much in step with other groups including
the Montagnards and Jacobins (who both
took an extreme view about stamping out
resistance to the Revolution) but gradually they were side-lined and in May 1793,
the Montagnards, led by Robespierre,
took control of the government and the
Reign of Terror began.
Their aim was to kill anyone who might
oppose them, superficially in order to
consolidate the Revolution, ward off any
possible civil war, and to stamp out counter-Revolutionaries and their sympathisers. It is impossible not to note, however,
that as a convenient side-effect it would
also wipe out all political opposition
and hand almost absolute power to
the Jacobins.
Charlotte Corday was horrified by this
State-sanctioned violence, and felt that it
was a step towards destroying the soul of
France. In her mind, the radical journalist
Jean-Paul Marat, who had called for and
approved of the killing of thousands of
prisoners in the 1792 September
Massacres, was directly responsible for
cultivating and spreading these radical
ideas. His publication, L’Ami du Peuple
(The Friend of the People) was the Jacobin’s
loudspeaker to the ‘sans-culottes’.
A doctor, scientist and political
theorist, Marat was then 50 years old
and uncompromising in his views. His
background was poor, his childhood
education scant, but his drive, hard work,
and ambition had elevated him through
society. He had spent many years living
in Britain, and returning to France in
1777, he got the job of physician to the
bodyguard of King Louis XVI’s
youngest brother.
He used his handsome salary to
pursue various scientific studies but fell foul of other scientific experts who did
not always agree with
his findings. He
attempted to
disprove Newton’s
theory that refracted
white light breaks
down into seven
colours, for example.
On the eve of the
Revolution, perhaps seeing it coming, he abandoned science and medicine
to enter journalism and politics,
becoming a powerful Jacobin voice and
calling for the use of violence against the
monarchy and the Girondins.
The times were turbulent; during the
upheaval and chaos of the Revolution,
Marat was several times forced to hide
in the sewers of Paris, and at one point
he was arrested. But he did not care –
throughout it all, he kept to his radical
opinions.
From Caen, his voice was so loud that
it seemed as if he were the star of the
show, rather than the leader of the claque.

as Charlotte Corday
misguided? Insane?
Politically naive? Or
was she just a murderess, plain and simple?
It’s undisputed in fact, that she did murder Jean-Paul Marat as he lounged in
his bath. But what kind of woman kills a
man she hardly knows because she disagrees with his politics? Much as we might
dream of murdering certain politicians,
it’s a fantasy not a plan.
“Her actions have been interpreted
differently by various people over the
years,” says Alain Chevalier, the curator
of the Musée de la Révolution Française
in Vizille, just south of Grenoble. “She
was provincial, a small-town aristocrat,
well-educated and felt she was on a mission to save ‘The People’. I think she was
vulnerable, fragile in her thinking, not
really capable of following all the details
of an argument. She thought that by killing the voice, you could kill the message.”
Marie-Anne Charlotte de Corday
d’Armont was born in Normandy in
1768, into a family of local aristocrats.
After her mother’s death, she and her sister were packed off to a convent school
in Caen, where she read her way through
the library. So we can deduce that her
childhood was probably not filled with
close warmth and love.
In 1791, two years after the French
Revolution started, she left the convent
and went to live with her cousin,
Madame le Coustellier de BrettevilleGouville. She was 23 and like everyone
in France at that time, followed news of
the Revolution avidly.
In the two years since the overthrow
of the monarchy, radicalism had reared
its ugly head, and different factions
had emerged with varying ideas
on which direction the
Revolutionaries should
take. The Girondins
(so-called because
many of the faction’s
leading lights came
from Gironde in
south-west
France) were for
ending the monarchy, and for
spreading the
Revolution internationally via military
action (against the
Rhineland, Poland,
Netherlands, Austria and
eventually Britain, Spain and Italy) but
against burning chateaux and against
executing anyone suspected of being an
‘enemy’ of the Revolution.
It is easy to see why this stance would
appeal to Charlotte. She was a democrat
and a republican, but her background,
albeit not fabulously rich, was aristocratic, her education thoroughly classical,
and she was in line to inherit her cousin’s
estate. She had not approved of the execution of King Louis XVI and as she listened to the Girondins at their meetings

Above: the Normandyborn Revolutionary
Charlotte Corday
died aged just 24
by guillotine; inset:
the Jacobin writer and
politician Jean-Paul
Marat, whom Corday
killed in his bathtub

“

She never really
had the chance to
explain herself and it
appears she did not
really try. Perhaps
she thought her
actions would speak
for themselves

To Charlotte Corday he seemed to be the
head of the serpent. If he were eliminated, untold thousands of French lives
would be spared and some of the choppy
waters would be calmed. A more moderate and reasonable, Girondin, version of
the Revolution would triumph.
So on July 9 1793, Charlotte Corday
travelled to Paris, where she bought a
6-inch kitchen knife and set about tracking Marat down. She had initially considered killing him in front of the National
Convention in order to make an example
of him, but he no longer attended meetings there. So she went to his home,
claiming to have details of a Girondin
plot in order to gain admittance.
Marat had contracted a painful and
debilitating skin condition, and in an
attempt to alleviate the symptoms,
spent much of him time in medicinal
baths. It was not unusual for him to
receive visitors whilst still in his bath.
Charlotte stabbed him just once in the
chest, and alerted by his screams, the
room filled with people. Marat died
almost immediately and Charlotte was
arrested and taken to prison. Did she
expect to be executed, or did she think
she would be able to explain her actions
and go free? It is impossible to say, as

Local history 23

December 2018 I French Living

Village’s long-lost legacy
of mines and Médecys
In the latest of her explorations of small French villages with
secret histories, Jane Hanks visits Peyrusse-le-Roc in Aveyron

Secret history of buildings

W
subsequent events moved very fast.
She never really had the chance to
explain herself and it appears she did not
really try. Perhaps she thought her actions
would speak for themselves. Perhaps she
thought that she would be remembered
as having martyred herself to save France.
Whatever she thought, within four days
she had been interrogated, had undergone a virginity examination to ascertain
whether or not there was a lover somewhere in the plot (she was found to be
a virgin), had had her portrait painted,
and been guillotined.
Charlotte Corday was executed in July
1893, but Marat had already done his
work; Robespierre had already begun his
Reign of Terror which officially continued until July 1794, when he fell from
power, by which time 16,594 French citizens had been executed.
For many years Charlotte Corday was
forgotten, but her actions did have
repercussions – many of them negative.
“She discredited a lot of people, and
made Marat a martyr,” says Alain
Chevalier. “And because she killed him in
his private chambers while he was in the
bath, the affair always seems sordid, people always wonder if there wasn’t a sexual
element.”

He notes that Charlotte Corday changed
the role of women in the revolution,
reminded the world that women could be
fearless political actors rather than simply
being fragile wives and mothers. She
stirred up a misogynistic image of
women as manipulative, deceptive and
dangerous. Her murder of Marat may
even have been a contributory factor in
the execution of Marie-Antoinette a few
months later in October.
“She didn’t achieve anything positive.
People who kill journalists and politicians
never change anything. When we look
at a tragic modern example, the killing
of the Labour MP Jo Cox in 2016, we
draw the same conclusions. The personal
effect on people who knew Jo Cox
was enormous, but murder doesn’t
change political ideas. Her death hasn’t
silenced the conversation about EU
membership.
“Nor did Marat’s death change the
direction of the French Revolution.
Violence is the result of confrontational,
binary, black-and-white thinking. Murder
is an absolute impasse; it never leads to
anything. Charlotte Corday simply didn’t
understand that the only way to change
ideas is to engage, discuss, persuade,
explain and listen.”

Above: an imagined
depiction of the grisly
murder scene. Under
the Second Empire,
Marat was seen as
a revolutionary monster
and Corday as a true
heroine of France, but
more recent thinking
questions her act

hen you arrive at the
pretty hilltop village of
Peyrusse-le-Roc in the
Aveyron, you could be
forgiven for missing its
hidden history, which for the most part is
out of sight on the densely wooded slopes
leading down into the valley below.
You might just have caught a glimpse,
though, of the ruins of one of its chateaux
with its two remaining towers perched
perilously on the top of a rocky outcrop,
which in days gone by was a strong and
impenetrable defence against marauders.
The village now has around 230 inhabitants, but at the height of its prosperity
in the 13th century, 3,500 people lived
there and it was an important town in the
region from the 8th to the 18th century.
Much of its wealth came from its
silver and lead mines. At that
period the people of
Peyrusse-le-Roc lived
on the slopes leading
down into the valley;
it was not until its
decline that the
population moved
to its present situation on the top of
the hill.
Thus the ruins of
the earlier settlement,
including a church, covered market, a bell tower, a
barbican tower, a hospital
known as l’hôpital des Anglais (no
doubt because of English occupation
during various periods), a synagogue, a
leper’s house, a bridge, and a carved stone
tomb called the Tombeau du Roi (it is
assumed the unknown buried person
had connections with the king), can only
be seen if you leave the centre and walk
down the steep footpaths leading away
from the contemporary village.
The village began its rise in 767,
when the armies of Pépin le Bref, the
King of the Franks who was extending

his territories south managed to seize the
château of Peyrusse. From then on its
destiny
was linked to the history of the County
of Toulouse.
For a short period, when Eleanor of
Aquitaine divorced the French King,
Louis VII and married King Henry II,
the village came under English rule.
However, this was not to the liking of the
local population and the Médecy family,
who may or may not have been linked
with the Italian Medicis won back control
for the French.
The village was at its most prosperous
in the 13th and 14th centuries when it
became a bailiwick, the chief administrative centre in the region responsible for
109 parishes. It was home to around 40
noble families and other rich families settled there. There was an important Jewish
community, hence the synagogue ruins.
Its position and strong walls also attracted people because it protected the
population from the constant
wars in the country. It
must have been a bustling place, unlike
today’s sleepy village,
with two markets a
week and several
fairs during the year.
However, its fortunes began to wane
with the Hundred
Years War, the
Religious Wars and the
decline of the mines as
the precious ore began to
run out. In 1719, the village lost
its bailiwicks right and its nobles and
rich inhabitants began to leave.
The artisans lost their clients and little
by little the population went into decline
and with it its buildings. In 1783, records
show that the church roof and its separate
bell tower were in danger of collapsing.
It was not until the 20th century that
the richness of its heritage began to come
to light and now there are efforts to
restore it. You can visit it for free but you
are advised to wear hiking boots for the
visit peyrusse-le-roc.ucom.fr

The lovingly restored
Queen’s House is now
open to the public.
By Samantha David

T

he Queen’s House at Versailles has been renovated and
reopened thanks to financial
support from Dior. Before
the works were carried out,
the interior was degraded and the structure was in such bad shape that it was not
safe to open it to visitors.
Now it has been restored to its former
glory, and is open so that the public can
enjoy the deliberately fabricated contrast
between the bucolic, dreamy exterior and
the glitzy luxurious salons occupied originally by Marie-Antoinette and then later
by Empress Marie-Louise, the second
wife of Napoleon I.
Jérémie Benoît, the curator of Versailles,
says the restoration was very much a
discovery of the people who used it.
“We have to put ourselves in the skin of
the actors of the past. Our skill is to link
the past and the present. We base our
work on all the available documents, including archives, engravings and images.”
It was not just a case of restoring the
buildings. The furnishings had to be recreated too. “It was a major challenge. We had
to research the items mentioned in various
accounts, and with the decor recreate the
atmosphere designed by Parisian cabinet-maker Jacob-Desmalter, who supplied
much of the Empire-style furniture.”
The hamlet was built in the grounds of
Versailles, partly as an escape from
the strains of court life, partly
as a place where the royal
children could learn about
agriculture, and partly as a
must-have accessory.
The entire development
was built in carefully
landscaped countryside
and gardens, following the
English model which was
the height of fashion when
Marie-Antoinette commissioned
its construction. The very formal French
style of gardens, straight lines of gravel
paths, closely clipped hedges, ornamental
fountains etc, can be admired at Versailles,

but rolling hills, tumbling brooks, ‘natural’
planting schemes and elaborate follies
were all the rage when the hamlet was
built round a specially-constructed lake.
In the same way, nobles of the time
delighted in ‘surprise’ thatched cottages;
from the outside they looked thoroughly pastoral and simple but
inside they were richly decorated and equipped with
all the latest luxuries.
The house was designed
to minimise all contact between its owners and their
servants. The kitchens for
example, are in a separate
building called the ‘Warming
House’, also now restored.
The hamlet contained a farm and
all its outbuildings, working dairy, a mill, a
‘boudoir’, a barn, a dovecot, a games house
(containing a billiards table) and accommodation for the Queen’s guards. The

The Queen’s House,
in its own hamlet
on the Versailles
grounds, provided
an escape from the
bustle of the royal
court, and was
based on the then
fashionable image of
English pastoralism

paths connecting the various houses were
laid out to give the walker the best possible
views of the lake, the hamlet and the surrounding landscapes. There were cottage
gardens, vegetable patches, espaliered fruit
trees, and pots of flowers everywhere.
It was in this hamlet that news was
brought to Marie-Antoinette: an armed
mob was marching towards Versailles.
She and her family were arrested awaiting
execution and the hamlet was sequestered
as part of the 1789 French Revolution.
The furniture and fittings were auctioned off, and the hamlet rented out
for festivals and parties, squatters moved
into the cottages, and the Petit Trianon
was turned into a hotel and restaurant.
In 1810, when Napoleon 1 had divorced
Josephine and married Marie-Louise,
Marie-Antoinette’s great niece, he had the
Petit Trianon and the hamlet completely
refurbished for his second wife’s use.
Some of the cottages were so dilapidated

they had to be demolished, but the rest
were carefully restored, albeit with much
simpler furnishings and interior design.
This is the design which has now been
recreated according to descriptions and
notes left from the time.
The rising damp has been treated,
plasterwork renewed, stonework replaced,
rotting woodwork replaced, and the whole
building strengthened to make it safe for
visitors. The gardens and landscaped areas
have been replanted, the lake has been
cleaned up. The furnishings, furniture
and fittings are exquisite, so that the ‘surprise’ element has also been recreated.
Because the contents of the house are
so fragile and precious, the Maison de la
Reine can only be visited in guided groups,
and it is best to book ahead as all the tours
have been full since the house opened to
the public last May. “I think this shows
just how interested the public are in the
Maison de la Reine,” says Jérémie Benoît.

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as risk-free as possible and yet have better-than-average levels of return.

GP saved me from blindness
with double-vision diagnosis
The inside story of readers who
have had operations in France
– and how they found the
health service, by Gillian Harvey

Former engineer Alexander Prette, 71,
moved to Mesnil Mauger in Seine-Maritime
in April 2005 with his wife Toni, 71, a former lecturer and exam moderator. They
chose Haute-Normandie to retire to as it is
close to their former home in Kent.
They had worked abroad – in Europe and
beyond – for 25 years and both had a reasonable knowledge of French.
Initial symptoms
In 2016, I began to feel very unwell. I lost
my appetite and experienced weight loss,
fatigue, dizziness and nausea. My doctor
sent me for various blood tests, which
proved inconclusive and medications to
alleviate the symptoms, including antibiotics and anti-nausea tablets, did not help.
The GP continued to support me with
my symptoms over the months that followed, but the cause remained a mystery.
However, six months after my initial
visit, I began to experience double-vision
and alarm bells rang. The GP sent me for
an immediate brain scan, which revealed I
had a macro adénome hypophysaire (a
tumour on the pituitary gland). This had
grown rapidly and it was affecting major
arteries and pressing on my optic nerve.
At the hospital
My scan took place just before Christmas
2016 so there was an initial delay in treatment starting. In early January, my doctor
arranged an appointment with a neurosurgeon at Charles-Nicolle hospital in Rouen.
After tests, the neurosurgeon set another
appointment for the end of January but
almost as I arrived home, the hospital
called asking me to return within a few
days to see the neurosurgery professor
In the next two weeks, I made several
visits to the endocrinology clinic affiliated
with the hospital at Bois-Guillaume CHU
plus full examinations with another MRI. I
was put on medication to alleviate my
symptoms, but told I needed an operation
to stop the growth of the tumour, as it
could eventually destroy my optic nerve.
The operation
The operation was carried out in February

FACTS ON
Pituitary tumours

The Pituitary Foundation. Further information
can be found in Surgery & Radiotherapy booklet

The operation
The majority of pituitary gland operations are carried out through the nose,
known as “transsphenoidal” surgery.
The aim is to remove as much of the
tumour as safely as possible, without
damaging delicate nerves and blood
vessels in the area. Surgery can, in
some cases, remove all of small
tumours but complete removal of large
tumours can be difficult. The operation
is carried out under general anaesthetic and takes several hours – although
this will depend on the size and accessibility of the tumour. Patients are usually kept in hospital for about a week.
Aftercare
Regular blood tests will be carried out
to ensure hormone levels haven’t been

Alexander Prette praises health service
2017, under general anaesthetic. The
tumour was accessed via my nostril using
micro-surgery. On the same day, I was on
the phone to my wife by 2pm, but stayed
in Intensive Care for 24 hours.
There, I was required to lie flat on my
back and was monitored constantly.
I remained in hospital for six days and
cannot fault the wonderful care I received.
In fact, I became quite famous – on one
occasion a nurse came in, spoke to me
and, when I replied, she said with a big
smile: “Ah, vous êtes l’homme avec le bel
accent!”

adversely affected; if they have, medication may be required. Some patients
may develop diabetes insipidus, but
this can be temporary. After the operation, you are likely to have a painful
nose, perhaps a headache or bruising
of your face. You will be asked routine
questions by the nurse, such as what
day it is and where you are. They will
also test your eyesight.
Outlook
Radiotherapy is sometimes used as
part of the overall treatment for pituitary tumours (also called pituitary adenomas). The aim is to control the
growth of the tumour and prevent it
enlarging. In some cases, radiotherapy
also results in shrinkage of the tumour,
but this can take months or years.

Aftercare
After discharge, I continued to experience
a little bleeding from my nose, but no
other ill-effects. However, at my follow-up
appointment four months after surgery in
July 2017, the neurosurgeon explained that
although the operation had been a success,
he hadn’t been able to remove the whole
tumour because of its vulnerable position.
So, every six-months, I go for a check at
the endocrinology clinic, see the professor
in charge once a year and see my neurosurgeon twice a year. I also have MRIs to
check the tumour isn’t causing problems.
So far, he is satisfied with my progress,
and it’s a relief each time he tells my wife
and I “all is good; see you in a year!”
Because both my pituitary gland and thyroid are now not working, I am on medication for the rest of my life. However, I
feel better than I have for years – with so
much more energy. My wife tells me I’m a
new man!
I do not have the words to express my
gratitude to our GP, neurosurgery at
Charles-Nicolle, endocrinology at BoisGuillaume for not only the speed with
which I was treated, but the care and efficiency of everyone involved.
If my doctor had not diagnosed my condition so quickly, I may have eventually
developed blindness.

MYTHBUSTER

France is a strongly Catholic country
This is partly false
France is regarded as a
Catholic country, but the actual number of people who go to
church every week is the lowest
of any ‘Catholic country’, and
surveys show religion is not
part of life for most people.
There are no government statistics for churchgoers as it is
regarded as counter to freedom
of choice to ask anyone about
their religious beliefs. Any
information that exists, therefore, comes from opinion polls.

In this column we look
at the ‘truths’ everyone
‘knows’ about France
In 2017 a survey for La Croix
Catholic newspaper, showed
1.8% of the population went to
Mass every Sunday.
This is down from a similar
2009 study showing 4.5% went
to Mass, while in 1952 some
27% were weekly churchgoers.
In Spain by comparison,
about 20% of the population go
to Mass once a week.

Practical 21

connexionfrance.com

Statistics from the Catholic
church also reflect this downturn. The number of baptisms
has decreased from nearly halfa-million in 1990 to just over a
quarter-of-a-million in 2015.
In the same period the number of confirmations has
halved and church weddings
have more than halved.
Just after the Second World
War an early Ifop poll found
eight out of 10 people said they
were Catholic. By 2016 this figure had dropped to 64%, mainly made up of people who iden-

tify with the church even if they
were not regular practitioners.
A Gallup poll in 2009, found
30% said the religion was an
important part of their lives.
It is thought that between
seven and 10% of the population are Muslim in France and
2% are Protestant.
In terms of the numbers who
say they are Catholic, rather
than the numbers who go to
church, Catholicism remains
the number one religion, but
whether it is still a Catholic
country is open to debate.

MPs vote down drugs plan
MPs have rejected an MP’s
proposal to allow pharmacists
to dispense certain drugs for
minor illnesses without a doctor’s prescription.
The idea was an amendment
to the projet de loi de financement de la Sécurité sociale
2019, put forward by LREM
MP Delphine Bagarry.
Under the plan, pharmacists
would have been allowed to
dispense particular drugs for
certain illnesses such as cystitis, conjunctivitis or eczema in
order to speed up treatment.
Ms Bagarry said the aim was
“to make it easier for the
French to access the care they

need by drawing on everyone’s
skills”. It followed a decision to
allow pharmacists to perform
vaccinations.
Pharmacists supported the
plan and it also received cautious approval in public consultations but MPs agreed with
doctors who had voiced strong
opposition.
“This is a complete questioning of the contours of the profession: it amounts to giving
the pharmacist responsibility
for a medical diagnosis and the
prescription of drugs usually
prescribed by a doctor,” said
Jean-Paul Ortiz, president of
the CSMF doctors union.

MONEY-SAVER

Reduce your energy bills
Energy bills are soaring
with a 5.4% rise for gas last
month, taxes on oil (fioul) due
to go up in January and electricity rates at an all-time high.
Consumer champion Que
Choisir and independent energy mediation service at www.
energie-info.fr have non-commercial price comparative sites
for electricity and gas.
It is worth taking time to
study the details of each offer
and though there are fewer
savings to be had from electricity at present you could cut
€100 off your gas bill. You can
change supplier with no cancellation charge at any time
and the new supplier must do
the paperwork to terminate
your previous contract.
Que Choisir says there is no
need to fear the smaller energy suppliers as they have the
same controls as for EDF and
Enedis, but to study the contracts carefully. They advise
fixed-price contracts to avoid
market fluctuations.
Leading oil supplier fioulmarket.fr warns that 2019 tax
increases will add €80 to a
2,000-litre oil delivery and
that 42% of your bill will go

in taxes, so it is best to buy
before the tax rise in January.
You can follow market
trends by looking at oil sites
www.fioulmoinscher.fr,
www.fioulmarket.fr and
www.fioulreduc.com which
indicate whether prices are
rising or falling.
Que Choisir has set up a
group purchase scheme
which negotiates a discount
price from suppliers, and says
it can save €50 on each order,
including the €5 join up fee.
www.choisirsonfioul.fr
If you do decide to change
from oil, the government is
offering income-related
grants of up to €3,000 to help
you change to renewable
energy methods. Log on to
www.ecologique-solidaire.
gouv.fr/coup-pouce-economiesdenergie-2018-2020
Tips from www.energie-info.
fr include cutting consumption by 7% by lowering the
temperature by 1°C, leaving
shutters and curtains closed if
you go out for the day, purging radiators regularly and
having your boiler checked
each year to make it last
longer and operate efficiently.

No to carte grises for bikes

CYCLIsts will have to ensure
their bicycles are correctly
‘marked with a unique code’ in
a bid to cut down on crime,
under new government plans.
Up to 500,000 bicycles are stolen every year in France and fear
of theft is often cited as a reason
for people not wanting a bike.
But Transport Minister
Elisabeth Borne said owners
will not have to carry carte
grise-style ownership certificates every time they ride their

bikes, as had been reported.
Once a cycle is marked with a
unique code, its owner will be
given a certificate which they
can present to police as proof
of ownership if the bike is stolen, or if they want to sell it on.
Bicycles produced from 2020
will have the code number
marked as standard, while
cycle-owners have until 2021
to get their bikes registered. To
find a shop to mark your bike and the fee see bicycode.org.

Electromagnetic surveys

ANYONE concerned about electromagnetic radiation levels can
now have their home – or any public space – checked out for free.
L’Agence nationale des fréquences (ANFR) began offering the
service in June. Homeowners and tenants, with the approval of
their landlord, should apply via form Cerfa n°15003*02 which is
available from the website service-public.fr. The form must be
countersigned by an authorised body, such as a local authority
official and the survey will be carried out within a month.
The results will be published at the government site cartoradio.fr
which shows radio mast implantations throughout France.

DIRECTORY

Use these pages to find English-speaking tradespeople and firms across France.
For your security, we check that all French businesses listed in this section are registered.
The listings are arranged geographically by the 5 landline telephone zones of France.
P23 All of France
All Tel Codes

P25 North France

Tel Codes 01 - 03

P25 South East France
Tel Code 04

P26 South West France
Tel Code 05

P26 Classifieds

P27 Community

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Due to the ever-increasing costs of fossil
fuels, people are now looking for more
energy-efficient and cost-effective methods
of heating their homes. A wood-fired system
is the obvious choice, either as a stand-alone
system or in combination with other heat
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There are many different types of woodfired systems available and Enershop
discusses each client’s needs to ensure
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pellet-fired boiler, there is a model to suit
every property. Boiler stoves are aesthetically
pleasing and are usually located in the main
living area.
Whether a traditional or contemporary
style, all the boiler stoves supplied by
Enershop incorporate the latest stove
technology. Log gasification and pellet
boilers must be housed in an outbuilding or
uninhabited, well-ventilated room.
Michael said: “Gasification boilers produce
large amounts of heat at high efficiencies,
which is stored in an accumulation tank.
They have a burn cycle of between four to
six hours depending upon the wood, so are
easily managed.
“Pellet boilers are programmable and are
easy to use and control with automatic fuel
feeding and ignition.”
Enershop also has a range of combination
boilers which can use both logs and pellets –
offering the best of both worlds.

Wood-fired systems can source domestic
hot water, central and underfloor heating
and can also heat a swimming pool.
Michael said: “We have a demonstration
system at our property comprising of a log
gasification boiler with solar thermal panels
linked to an accumulation tank. Both the
gasification boiler and solar thermal panels
work effectively at different times of the
year, so complement each other perfectly.”
Enershop holds the QualiBois and
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The Connexion December 2018

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Furniture for France works with its customers all the way from the initial enquiry
through to installing the furniture in their
homes.
Offering advice on all aspects of a customer’s order, such as sofa coverings, wood
finishes and delivery schedules, ensures they
are kept informed every step of the way.
“With 15 years’ experience and thousands
of deliveries under our belts throughout
France, we have encountered almost
everything and put that to good use when
advising and helping customers find the
right furniture for their property in France,”
said the company’s managing director Brian
Muir.
The delivery service offered includes room

by room installation of all furniture ordered,
this includes assembly of all oak beds and
wardrobes as these come in sections for ease
of access to difficult staircases. All other
items are solid, no assembly pieces. Our deliveries are timed to the hour on the agreed
date of delivery. The Furniture for France
face book page will keep you up to date with
all the latest news.
Six new ranges of oak have recently been
introduced, including traditional styles in a
rustic finish. With competitively priced solid oak furniture it is no wonder Furniture
for France had its best ever year in 2017.
In addition to the new oak furniture a
choice of 12 different paint colours are
now available on all pine furniture. Wood
samples can also be sent out to customers
if required.
“With delivery costs starting at just £59 for
any quantity of furniture, there really isn’t a
better or easier way to furnish a property in

France,” said Mr Muir.
Throughout 2017
sofas continued to be the
best-selling individual
item for the company.
Loose-covered designs
are always top of the list
with the introduction
of more complex fabric
patterns and colours
allowing customers to
custom cover the sofa
of their choice. “This
process can take some
Stylish Highcleare fixed cover sofa design
time to work through,
but as the product has a life expectancy of
introduce great ranges of furniture for
over 15 years, it pays to get it right,” said Mr delivery to our customers in France without
Muir. Furniture for France makes deliveries compromising on quality or service.”
as far afield as Geneva and Nice, as well as
locally to customers in the Dordogne, the
06 46 49 73 45
Lot, Charente and Limousin.
info@furnitureforfrance.co.uk
Mr Muir added: “We will continue to
www.furnitureforfrance.co.uk

SSAFA
FRANCE
The Soldiers, Sailors, Airmen
and Families Association

Help
available

All your home’s mobile phones,
laptops, iPads, cameras, etc.
covered for damage or theft
at home or elsewhere
No claims excess

Penny at GSAR Insurance Brokers

pennym.gsar@orange.fr
05 53 40 15 71

professional and
efficient French legal
advice in English
Tel: +44 (0)113 393 1930
contact@heslop-platt.co.uk

Specialists in supplying quality
New and Pre-owned
French registered vehicles
We buy LHD/RHD vehicles
Part-exchanges welcome
Unlike UK LHD specialists we
handle all the paperwork and
re-register the vehicle in your
name at our premises!
French registered, English owned company

Suppliers of German
kitchens by Häcker
And English Kitchens and
furniture by Neptune
Plus a range of work surfaces
and appliances
Visit our website:
www.justkitchens.fr
Or call for a chat:
05.62.58.03.64

Also part-exchange. Collection in
the UK or France. Polite service.
Please email, text or telephone
and we will call you back.

Top tractor and machinery deals delivered to France
Cowling Agriculture prides
itself on friendly advice and
excellent aftersales service –
and all at competitive prices
With 20 years of experience, Cowling
Agriculture supplies tractors and machinery
to smallholders and farmers in the UK and
Europe.
The company keeps 80 to 100 tractors
in stock, both new and used, along with a
comprehensive range of machinery. It also
has a well-equipped workshop and proficient
staff who service and repair used tractors and
machinery.
It specialises in putting together tractor and
machinery packages for first-time tractor
owners. Kim Cowling from the company
said: “We take the time to listen to customers’
requirements so that we can supply a

competitively priced and suitable package.
We are often able to supply tractors and
machinery to customers in France for a much
lower price than they could source them
locally. We pride ourselves on our friendly
advice and excellent aftersales service.”
Cowling Agriculture has been a dealer for
the Landlegend range of tractors – which
Kim says are the best value and most popular
compact tractor on the market – for more
than 10 years.
“The Landlegend 25hp tractor provides a
very good spec for a very good price,” she
said. “It is £5,395. It can easily be fitted with
a 4in1 loader and backhoe, making it ideal
for farmers, smallholders, self-builders and
equestrian yards. Our second-hand tractors
start from around £2,500 and come fully
serviced, checked over and with a minimum
of six months warranty. We can team these
up with toppers, chain harrows, logsplitters or

rotovators etc.”
For customers in France wanting to see
the tractors and machinery in action, the
company can put them in touch with one
of its many existing tractor owners. Kim
said: “We have 50-plus Landlegend tractors
working in France, plus many other used
tractors and individual machinery items. We
have many customers who come back to us to
add new machinery.”
The company regularly has deliveries
covering the UK, Ireland and France and the
driver is able to fully demonstrate the tractors
and machinery on arrival.
It keeps machinery for all seasons and often
runs special seasonal offers. The stock list can
be viewed on the website.
www.cowlingagri.com
www.landlegend.co.uk
+ 44 1458 269210

Everything from repairs and maintenance to
complete A-Z renovation and decoration.
References – Professional – Reliable

Karl - 06 04 45 63 57 / Paul - 06 34 95 19 71

longden888@lycos.com
www.roofingbuildingservices.com

26 Directory

05 SOUTH west

www.connexionfrance.com

The Connexion December 2018

COMMERCIAL FEATURE

Is your Top Up health insurance up for renewal?
Prior to your health insurance
contract in France renewing for
a further year always take the
time to compare prices and to
look for better cover.

Top up health insurance contracts run for
one year and are automatically renewed each
year. There are two options to cancel a top up
health insurance contract. The first is to send
a letter of cancellation, by recorded delivery,
which must be sent two months before the
anniversary date of your contract.
SwissLife’s Peter Musto explains the other
means of cancelling. “The second option is
by “loi Chatel”. Every year when it gets close
to your anniversary date, your insurance
company will send you a letter or an email

called “Appel de Cotisation”. This is the
renewal information about your health
insurance contract. On the envelope you will
have a date stamped by the post office; if it
is by email the date will be on it. You have
20 days only from that date to cancel your
contract.
“A letter must be sent by recorded delivery
in which you must mention that you wish
to cancel your contract by loi chattel. Peter
continues, “But don’t worry, we will do this
for you and we will also pay for the recorded
delivery”.
Specialists in personal insurance,
SwissLife is a leading provider of Top Up
health insurance, home and car insurance,
investments and private banking for expats
living in France. Their experience and
professionalism constitutes the foundation
for their leading position in the market and
over 2 million customers place their trust
in SwissLife’s products and services. Based

in Bordeaux, Peter and colleague Lawrence
are members of the only SwissLife agency
in France to work with English speaking
clients offering a wide range of Healthcare
Insurance and General Insurance solutions
backed by one of Europe’s leading Insurance
providers.
Peter says, “Our British staff pledges to
work very hard to provide you with quality
insurance and excellent service. We offer a
fully flexible menu of healthcare insurance
options so clients can use health insurance to
their advantage.
“Customers choose what suits them best.
For example you can choose to have a higher
level of cover for hospitalisation and less for
dentistry, or the opposite. In addition there
are no medical questionnaires, no age limits
and the guaranties are effective immediately
so why not check what we have to offer”.
For more information contact either Peter or
Lawrence; they will be delighted to help.

Les Amis Des Chats
promotes sterilisation to improve
the well-being of stray and pet cats
in the rural villages of SW France.

WE NEED VOLUNTEERS

to help run our
charity shops and events.
Donations are also gratefully received at
Les amis des chats, 82150 Roquecor.
See how you can support us by visiting
www-les-amis-des-chats.com
Registered charity no: W821000447

New! Brexit and Britons
in France helpguide
What’s next
and what
to expect
with interviews,
analysis, reader
stories and an
overview of the
practical issues.

Order at connexionfrance.com

The Connexion December 2018

www.connexionfrance.com

COMMERCIAL FEATURE

CLASSIFIEDS/community

Directory 27

Property Searching Takes off Every December
It seems a bit of a mystery
why every December sees
an increase of interest in
purchasing a property in
France and this continues
into the following spring. Bob
Elliott, Commercial Director
at UK Telecom, reviews what
prospective buyers should
firstly consider.
One of the important changes for
home hunters that want a telephone and
broadband service is that the basic service
of a telephone line with a broadband service
running over, known as ‘degroupage partiel’,
was withdrawn from the market on 15
November. Many will find this of concern
as today’s world almost dictates that every

home must have access to the internet.
Those most affected by this change will
be house hunters looking for property in
more rural areas where broadband speeds
are generally slower as they are often
further away from the local telephone
exchange. Those that are closer can have
the ‘degroupage total’ service where the
broadband speed is at least 2Mbps. This
service uses the broadband service to carry
the telephone calls as well. This service does
not require a line rental payment so whilst
faster it is also cheaper.
90% of our new customers subscribe to
the degroupage total service; the remainder
have to consider alternatives. These 10% of
properties being purchased which fall into
the zone where they can no longer get the
traditional broadband connection must
review the other options. One of the most
popular of which uses a mobile service
with SFR’s offer called 4G. You do need a

jobs OFFERED

For unique,
French-themed
gift ideas
see our shop at
connexionfrance.com

Community events
Move fast to catch a secondhand clothes
sale on Saturday, November 24, between
10am and 4pm, at Salle des Associations Claude Albinet, Mézin, on behalf
of Médecins Sans Frontières. For further
information contact Lynne Johnstone 05 53
97 38 17, or email
lynne@johnstonesinfrance.com
A taste of Christmas, US-style is on the menu
at the American Church in Paris at 65, Quai
d’Orsay on December 1.
Between 10am and 6pm, organisers
have promised a ‘mind-blowing’ one-day
rummage sale. Quality ‘pre-loved’ clothes,
jewellery, handbags, accessories, English
books, toys, children’s and baby clothes are
all on sale – while the baked goods stand,
offering fresh home-baked carrot cake,
mouth-watering brownies and seasonal
cookies is a must-visit. US-style holiday
food is available at the snack bar, while the
children can enter the ‘silly sweater party’
and take selfies with Santa: www.aaweparis.
org/bazaar https://www.facebook.com/
events/309572326533028/
Homemade Christmas cakes, puddings,
mince pies and crackers will be available
at the Great Annual Christmas Market in
Bertric Burée on December 1, between
10am and 3pm. Members of Dronne Valley
Church are hosting the event, and say you
are sure to find an ideal present or two

reasonably good mobile signal to use this,
and if not you will have to look at alternatives
such as satellite broadband.
More than ever before those looking to buy
property and requiring internet connection
need to find out where the service is available
and which service they would have to
subscribe to. If they are in urban areas they
may be able to subscribe to the new fibre
services that give super-fast speeds, TV, pay
per view sports events and access to Netflix
and more.
UK Telecom offers our prospective
customers all the information about
available services at the time they make
an enquiry. This can be a general enquiry
about broadband and mobile services in
a commune, to the actual services which
can be installed in a property they want to
buy. This free service enables them to avoid
buying a home in an ‘internet black hole’ –
and could be a reason why the property’s sale

price is lower than expected if they cannot
get connected.
So if you are about to buy for the first time
in France, or are looking to move, we can
make sure that you get the best information
on how to stay in touch.
BOB ELLIOTT, UKTelecom
www.uktelecom.net
enquiries@uktelecom.net
+44 (0)1483 477100
Free from France: 0805 631632

You can see more events and post your own at connexionfrance.com/community/events
among the stalls selling arts and crafts,
children’s books and toys, and lots more.
Refreshments are available. For details
contact Ann Knight on 05 45 98 22 17, or
email ann@annanddaveknight.co.uk

TV’s Military Wives choir
seeks help finding a place
to perform in Normandy

Come along and join Cantabile, the ACFAA
choir in Eymet, as they present Christmas
carols and songs in Place Gambetta in the
Dordogne town, on December 19 at 7pm.
For further information contact Philippa
Tillyer at cogulot@yahoo.co.uk

The Chivenor Military Wives Choir, is
hoping Connexion readers can help them
find a choir to sing with for their planned
tour of the Normandy Beaches next
October, to coincide with the 75th
anniversary of the D-Day landings.
They performed in France and Belgium
in each of the past two years, and in 2019
they feel a visit to Normandy would be
special as the North Devon beaches near to
where they live were used to train soldiers
for the D-Day landings.
The Chivenor Military Wives Choir is
made up of wives, partners and girlfriends
of British Military personnel and veterans.
It was set up in 2011, when Gareth
Malone visited RMB Chivenor to form a
choir for the BBC TV programme, The
Choir: Military Wives.
It was such a success that the song they
sang at the 2011 Festival of Remembrance,
Wherever You Are, was released as a single
and became the Christmas number one
that year, raising more than £500,000 for
the military charities SSAFA and The
Royal British Legion.
Since then the choir has released two
number one albums, In My Dreams and

You are invited to a non-denominational
traditional Service of Nine Lessons and
Nine Carols, sung in French, English,
Provençal and German in Vaucluse on
December 22. Afterwards, vin chaud and
mince pies will be served in the Cafe de la
Poste, Goult.
Proceeds go to the Fundraising Effort
in support of the Pays d’Apt Hospital. Contact
Michael Timperley mtimperley@yahoo.com,
06 33 74 82 70, or Fran Goodwin frangow@
wanadoo.fr 04 90 72 29 83 for details.
Start the New Year in style with an evening
of popular Viennese music presented by
Cantabile and guest singers at the Espace
Culturel, Eymet, on January 5. Tickets are
available from the Tourist Office in Eymet,
or at the door on the night – €10 each, free
to under 12s. Contact Philippa Tillyer at
cogulot@yahoo.co.uk for more information.

The choir at a performance in Ypres in 2018
Stronger Together and has been involved in
national events including the Diamond
Jubilee Concert.
They continue to perform to raise money
for charity, but tend to favour smaller
venues now. As Treasurer and Overseas
Visits Co-ordinator, Jane Batchelor says,
their main concern is the welfare of the
wives when the men are away: “None of us
were in a choir before we started in 2011
and the experience has given many of us
increased confidence.
Jane Batchelor, says that because of the
choir’s geographical and historical links
with Normandy, they would like to sing
there: “It is very relevant for our group
because of where we live and the 75th
anniversary timing.

“We would like to be able to pay our
respects on behalf of all the military wives
and the people of North Devon.”
The choir has a repertoire ranging from
Coldplay and Queen to classical and
religious music, which they vary according
to the type of concert and venue.
They rehearse once a week with their
musical director and more before a big
performance.
They intend to come for a weekend in
October 2019, travelling on Thursday
October 3, hopefully singing on Friday and
Saturday and going home on the Sunday.
Anybody who would like to link up with
them can contact Jane Batchelor at
janegreg@aol.com or Peter Jones at
peter@singlesteptours.com

28 Directory

features

www.connexionfrance.com

The Connexion December 2018

COMMERCIAL FEATURES

Private property for sale company reports record year
ARB French Property are
pleased to say that they have
had their busiest year ever.
So much for Brexit! ARB
French Property is based in
the UK and was created by
husband and wife team
Adrian and Jacqueline Bunn,
as a low cost private for sale
property marketing platform.
Adrian says “We take a pro-active
approach to finding buyers for our sellers.
We email our extensive database with
regular property listings, we ensure every
home is seen on leading third-party
sites such as Rightmove, Zoopla, French
Property Links, A Place in the Sun and

more. We find most our buyers from
the UK, France, Holland and Belgium.
Our buying clients will be mostly cash
or cash subject to sale, over 50, retired or
contemplating retirement and looking
to buy a property to enjoy with friends,
family and grand-children.
“Many sellers often ask Is Brexit having
an effect? The simple answer is YES –
mostly positive. This year we have seen a
marked increase in full time movers from
the UK – leaving because of Brexit. We
call it the Brexit Exit! There is no flood of
sellers going back to the UK, just the usual
numbers for the usual reasons, such as
family and health. Brexit has seen us move
from 50/50 holiday home and full-time
enquiries to 90% full time. This has a very
positive effect. When buyers are searching
for a full-time home budgets increase, and
timescales shorten, so sellers are reporting
negotiation is down”

Jacqui continues “We now need more
stock throughout all areas of France.
Whether you are new to market, feel
your current marketing has stalled, are
frustrated and simply want your home
to have the attention it deserves, contact
us. Our Platinum Plus service is our
best-selling plan. It includes a visit by us
to photograph your property, an extensive
description and a floorplan. There is no
commission to pay, saving buyers and
sellers thousands. Plus, buyers like the
idea of dealing directly with the seller,
after all you know your home better than
anyone”
Give your home the attention it deserves
- Call us or visit our web site for more
details.
+44 (0)1803 469367
info@arbfrenchproperty.com
www.arbfrenchproperty.com

HARS help up-and-coming athlete
The Hearing Aid Repair Shop
(HARS) helps people of all
ages, by expertly repairing
their hearing aids.
The day after Boxing Day we helped a
young athlete by repairing her hearing aid
so she could study for an important
German GCSE mock exam at the start of
the spring term.
A member of Berkshire’s Newbury
Athletic Club, Charlotte Payne has earned
numerous accolades for her sporting
achievements and was runner up at the
Young Deaf Sports Personality of the Year
in November 2016.
Charlotte’s mum, Denise, said, “We
turned up in the snow with my daughter’s
hearing aid which had died over Christmas.
We were met with a smile by the wonderful

team at HARS who helped us out on the
spot. We were overwhelmed by their
kindness and won’t go anywhere else from
now on.”
Charlotte competes in the
throwing events – discus and
hammer. In 2016, Charlotte
was UK National Champion
and UK No. 1 in Under 15
Discus and UK No. 3 in
Under 15 Hammer.
Last year Charlotte moved
into Under 17 category and
became UK No. 1 in Under 17 Hammer
4kg, UK No. 3 in Under 17 Discus, South
England Under 17 Hammer Champion and
championship record holder. She was also
a silver medallist in hammer at the School
Games and a bronze medallist in Under
17 Discus at the English Schools
Championships.

As well as all that, Charlotte has been the
best UK deaf female thrower in hammer,
discus and shot put, for all age groups, for
the past 2 years.
Denise said, “Charlotte
is now the youngest in
her age group and has yet
another year at this level
to improve on her
amazing achievements.”
This year Charlotte has
set her sights on being
No. 1 in the UK in
hammer and discus, representing the UK in
the Under 18 European Championships in
Hungary in August and competing in the
School Games and Schools Track & Field
International.
Denise said, “Hopefully Charlotte will
have a busy summer, competing in various
national and international events, if she can

successfully win all the necessary qualifying
events beforehand. She’s capable, so it’s
definitely on the cards. Fingers crossed!
You rarely find a thrower who does both
hammer and discus to a high standard, so
Charlotte will probably have to decide
between them. It’s going to be a tough
choice to pick which one.”
The HARS team wish Charlotte all the
best with her studies and athletic
aspirations over the coming years. We hope
to be watching her compete at major
championships in the future.
If, like Charlotte, you need your hearing
aids repaired you can send them to us for a
free, no obligation quote.
For more details go to
www.hars.co.uk,
email info@hars.co.uk or
call us on 00 44 1635 48724.

Box clever and even arrange for UK purchases to be delivered to you
Watson European are
expanding their current service
of removals and storage to
include the delivery of packing
materials to your door.
Andrea Watson, the proprietor of
Watson European, explains.
“Many customers find it difficult to locate
suitable packaging material for their removals.
Being based in the UK means that Watson
European are able to source a wide variety of
boxes in quantities to suit a client’s individual
needs.”
From full home removals to the individual
pieces of furniture, Andrea’s team have the
trade contacts to supply boxes, wrapping
material and tape to ensure your belongings
can be transported in perfect condition.
With weekly services to France the Watson

European team can deliver the packaging to
your door and collect the filled packages at a
time to suit you ready for direct delivery to
the UK.
Andrea continues: “We also cater for those
not in any particular hurry to move into
their new home in France or who want to
put affairs in order first by offering up to 60
days’ free UK based storage. Many clients take
advantage of this offer.
“Also due to the increased demand we have
been experiencing, Watson European has
invested in yet more specialised equipment to
transport vehicles, home removals and even
plant and machinery. With Brexit looming
ever closer people are taking advantage of our
services, both those establishing themselves in
France or returning to the UK.
“We also offer a delivery service to our
regular customers in France when they
wish to make purchases in the UK. Where

our customers order online from different
suppliers in the UK we take delivery of the
items and can store them for up to 60 days
without charge. Once all the different orders
/ packages have arrived, our team delivers to
the customer’s door in France.”
With Watson European, you can rest
assured that your belongings – and your stress
levels – will be looked after. Andrea concludes:
“For us it’s the small things that make the big
difference. Moving home is often a stressful
experience where the best-laid plans can go
astray. Many of our clients remark on how
having our friendly staff available at the end
of phone is one of the most reassuring aspects
of our service. Being there to deal with the
smallest of detail is what our job is all about,
whether you require relocation services,
partial house removals of pre-packed items or
a complete packing and delivery service of a
full home.”

Take the wider view in the approach to sell your property
The cloud of Brexit hangs
over many people who are
trying to sell their French
property. Sue Adams, the
founder of French Properties
Direct, explains how property
sales are being influenced by
the current situation and
what vendors can do about it.

“Clearly, Brexit has an impact on the
property market, because it is a major
political rupture within the EU”, said Sue,
“but vendors who are concerned at the
effect it is having should take a wider view.
It is easy for a British vendor to forget that
the majority of people who are looking to
buy a French house are not British, so they
are not going to be affected by Brexit to the
same extent. Property is continuing to sell
despite Brexit.
“Most buyers of property in France
will be French, followed by other EU
nationals, such as Germans, Belgians and
the Dutch. Furthermore, currently buyers
are encouraged to seek out British vendors.
They sense that those who want to move
back to the UK will be prepared to negotiate
because they are anxious to leave France
and because of the financial benefits to the
vendor of a weak pound.
“What is important is that vendors

advertise their properties to as international
a market as possible. Over half of our
enquiries come from buyers who are
French and we still have a high percentage
of British buyers who are determined
not to let Brexit cloud their dreams of
owning property in France. We also have a
significant stream of enquiries from other
European nations and the rest of the world.”
French Properties Direct markets property
which is for sale privately, targeting as wide
an international market as possible. They
advertise on international property portals
and social media, plus use e-mail campaigns
and bespoke marketing packages.
Advertisers are helped to create and manage
their adverts and enquiries are forwarded
to them after screening by the company.
The company is on hand to help vendors
throughout their period of advertising and
any subsequent transaction as they work
closely with trusted professional partners

such as solicitors, mortgage brokers and
currency specialists. Fees are fixed and there
is no subsequent sales commission payable
to French Properties Direct by either buyer
or seller. Furthermore, the company is
currently running a Christmas promotion
– anyone paying for a six or twelve month
advertising package between now and
December 21 will receive one months’ extra
advertising free.
So if you are concerned that your property
will not sell because of Brexit, take heart,
take advantage of this promotion and grasp
the opportunity to market your French
property to a wide pool of international
buyers now.
Contact Sue for more details on:
info@frenchpropertiesdirect.com
Tel: +33 (0)6 71 61 09 26
www.frenchpropertiesdirect.com

The Connexion December 2018

www.connexionfrance.com

COMMERCIAL FEATURES

Maximise your house sale proceeds
Pioneer France ensures
sellers receive the best
currency rates possible for
the transfer of their house
sale proceeds

“It is shame when house sellers who have
tried so hard to achieve the best price for
their house then relinquish an unnecessary
chunk of these funds by using old
fashioned, expensive banking methods to
repatriate their money back into sterling,
dollars or whatever”, says Harris Raphael,
Managing partner of France-based Pioneer
France.
“The seller often relinquishes thousands
which could have been so easily avoided

had they used a specialist Foreign exchange
broker. Our historic data shows that the
average loss is around €3,500”, comments
Harris.
Historic data shows that sellers are much
less likely than buyers to use the services of
such a specialist. Harris believes that this is
primarily because the profile of a typical
seller is usually older than that of a buyer,
with sellers more likely to have traditionally
used a bank for their transfers, while being
reluctant about using ‘newer methods’.
“I understand this completely, especially
when it concerns one’s major asset!”, says
Harris “However, Pioneer France’s foreign
exchange brokerage has been operating for
over 35 years, is one of the world’s largest,
trading over €13billion on behalf of over
20,000 clients a year, in over 80 currencies.
“ It is also one of the very few that is fully
authorised and regulated by the FCA, with

Directory 29

features

the right of establishment in France”.
“As such, our brokerage can provide our
clients with security of funds and can give
expert currency exchange guidance to aid
our client’s decision making, which the
banks are not licensed to do”, advises
Harris.
Pioneer France was recently voted
number one for foreign exchange rates and
service, so contact Harris and his team to
find out more about saving thousands.
05 53 07 06 27
info@pioneerfrance.com
www.pioneerfrance.com
The Pioneer France FX team, from left:
Harris, Simon, Tanya, Zoe,
James and Steven

Taking the paperwork and pain out of a left-hand drive vehicle purchase
At Gary Automobiles near
Lyon, convenience and quality
are assured for customers
buying a left-hand drive car
ARE YOU looking to buy a left-hand drive
vehicle for your new life in France?
Gary Automobiles is an English-owned
motor dealer based just outside of Lyon in
the Rhône-Alpes, specialising in the supply
of quality new and pre-owned, left-hand
drive, French registered vehicles to expats
moving to France.
The company has been operating in
France since July 1 2003 and customers
only ever deal with Gary personally.
Convenience for the customer is a key
element in the company’s ethos, which is
why Gary Automobiles now has the facility
to register your vehicle in your name at

their premises – meaning there is need to
worry about translation and paperwork
issues. Gary will issue your new carte
grise directly from his
office and can even
arrange your French
motor insurance and
transfer your no
claims bonus.
“I remember how hard
it was to understand the
French paperwork and
red tape when I made the
move over to France in
2001. I am happy to assist
fellow expats and take
that burden away,” says Gary.
Reassuringly, they are fully French
registered company with Siret / Siren / and
TVA numbers and only supply vehicles with
European specifications.
For customers wishing to stay over and

visit the area (easyJet and Ryanair fly into
nearby airports), Gary can come to collect
you from the airport or train station, as
well as arrange
reservations or
advise on local
Lyonnais hotels.
Another part
of the service
offered by Gary
Automobiles is
that they do not
put people under
pressure to make
a purchase. They
understand the
logistics of moving abroad, so if they have
a suitable vehicle in stock they we will keep
it until you are ready to collect – with no
time limitations.
Part exchange with your right hand drive
vehicle is also available, while the company

also provides a car sourcing service –
meaning if they do not have the vehicle
you want in stock, they will find it for you.
For further recommendation, here are
some previous customer comments:
“Gary Automobiles made the whole
process as painless as possible.”
Colin Edwards
“I have used Gary Automobiles to source
and deliver a new car in France. Since I
don’t speak French it was a delight to deal
with Gary himself.” Tom Wall
“Gary’s personal and English-speaking
service has been really helpful and taken
the hassle out of buying and keeping a car
in France.” James Greig
Gary Automobiles EURL
Telephone: 0033 4 74 43 89 51
Mobile: 0033 6 84 85 04 61
Email: gary.automobiles@wanadoo.fr
www.gary-automobiles.com

Gary at his office near Lyon

SATATISFFACTTION
87 500 €

128 125 €

112 750 €

148 625 €

121 975 €

164 000 €

WITH WEEKLY SERVICES
FRANCE
NCE
TO
AND
FROM
T
OA
ND FRO
FR
OM FRA
AND SPAIN,
SPAI
P N,
PAI
N, OUR
SPECIALISED VEHICLES
CAN ACCOMMODATE FULL
OR PARTIAL HOME
REMOVALS, CARS,
CARAVANS AND MUCH
MUCH MORE.

Inspirational athlete Franco-English Catholic-Anglican surprise Benefactor
ATHLETE Valérie
Hirschfield has a
packed agenda for
2019, taking part in
several charity sporting events, despite losing her left leg to a
staphylococcus infection 13 years ago.
The 54-year-old
from La-Seyne-surMer who grew up in
south Africa plans to
take part in charity
Tower Runs (running
up the steps of all
floors) at the Eiffel
Tower and La
Défense.
In 2018, she took
part in a similar event
in Marseille, and in
September she
climbed 60 storeys of Paris’s Tour Montparnasse.
Valérie also plays tennis, surfs and competes in
a range of other sports. She took part in a ‘No
Finish Line’ charity walk / run in Monaco in
November, where entrants are sponsored for
each kilometre they complete of a circuit that is
open for eight days, day and night. She said: “I
meet too many people who have a handicap and
say they can’t do anything. I want to show them
they can. It is an effort but that’s true of all sport.”
See also facebook.com/val.hirschfield

Christopher Morgan has lived in
the village of Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt,
Vaucluse for 30 years. About 14
months ago, he and a friend, Duncan
Goodwin decided to set up Church of
England services in the Luberon area.
Their efforts resulted in a successful
bringing together of the Church of
England and Catholic churches – but
in a way they had not anticipated.
First they negotiated with the
Catholic Church and met twice with
the Archbishop in Avignon.
“He very generously gave us permission to hold Holy Communion
once a month in Oppede, a pretty village at the base of the Luberon
Mountains,” said Mr Morgan.
They then decided to come under
the Chaplaincy of Marseille. After
about a year an incident happened
which strengthened ties between the
two Christian faiths.
Mr Morgan said: “Sunday,
September 9, was our slot in the RC
Church in Oppede.
“The Reverend John Smith, new to
the Chaplaincy, was going to officiate,
and celebrate the Church of England’s
Holy Communion.
“As we were getting prepared, into
the church entered a rather worried
verger the new RC priest for Oppede,
Father Emmanuel, who had not been

who saved
thousands
honoured

From left: Verger Philippe Sabet, Père Emmanuel Kinda, and Father
John Smith, with Christopher Morgan and Duncan Goodwin

informed of the situation. What was
perhaps more disconcerting was that
the church was filling up and had
more than 80 Catholics and
Anglicans sitting side-by-side waiting
for a service. The two priests decided
to hold a joint Mass which was possible as our service sheets are printed
in both English and French.
“The RC verger Philippe Sabet got
together with our organist Duncan
Goodwin and organised hymns in
both French and English.

Join Britain’s only French
regiment under Wellington
VOLUNTEERS to take the King’s Shilling can
join the Duke of Wellington’s army as a member of the Chasseurs Britanniques Regiment
re-enactment group, the only France-based
Napeoleonic living history group.
Chairman Marc Middleton said the regiment was made up of Frenchmen who fought
on the royalist side in the Revolutionary war
then for the British army in the Napoleonic
War against France. They fought for the
British in Egypt, Italy, Portugal and France
and the regiment was disbanded in 1814.
By that time it had soldiers of all nationalities, including Germans, Italians, Spanish,
Russians, Danes, Romanians and Americans.
Mr Middleton, a historian who lives in
Colmar, Alsace, has a French mother and a
British father and lived in the UK until 2004.
He said his group aims to help French groups
to give more interest to reconstructed battles.
So far there are six members in France plus
others who have joined his Facebook group
from all over the world, including two from
Leeds who plan to come for events in France.

He said: “The re-enactment scene in France
is vibrant. Groups are not very big, around 20
at a time, but there are several.
“They mostly cover the Napoleonic wars
and the Medieval Period and often members
will take part in different groups for different
events. We do re-enactments among ourselves
for our own interest but also put on shows for
the public. Communes are often keen for us
to represent history in a realistic way at village celebrations. I also often go into schools
dressed as a French soldier to bring history to
life for pupils.”
Mr Middleton says being in a re-enactment
group is a different way of looking at the past
he has read all about.
It is also very sociable: “It is a fascinating
hobby when for a while you can cut yourself
off from the modern world, meet like-minded
people and make friendships that last a lifetime. We would be happy to have more
people join us and they can contact us via our
Facebook page.”
facebook.com/chasseursbritanniques/

Chasseurs Britanniques join in re-enactments with other French living history groups

“Both priests cooperated superbly
and both shared in the distribution of
the Host. Their homilies were
inspired blending to acknowledge
that there is only one God.
“When all was explained to the two
congregations there was instant
applause and the singing matched the
enthusiastic acceptance of what might
have been an embarrassing non-event.”
And, as it was such a success, they
hope to hold more joint masses in the
future – only this time planned!

Riviera run is unusual, but fun

No rushing for the Riviera Hash House Harriers while on a ‘run’
RIVIERA Hash House Harriers
has celebrated its 30th anniversary, meaning 30 years of what has
been called a “drinking club with
a running problem.”
There are thousands of hash
clubs worldwide and the aim is to
combine modest exercise with
socialising and partying. The
Riviera Hash meets every other
Sunday year-round and most runs
are within an hour of Antibes.
There are both runners’ and
walkers’ courses with a total distance of around 10-12km. The
courses are challenging because a
‘hare’ sets the trail, most often
with flour, and will set false leads.
“We take it in turns to hare the
trail”, says Peter Owen, known by
his hash name, Perpetual Motion,
and a member for 25 years.
“Though it is a good form of
exercise it is not necessarily for
potential Olympians. It is above
all a social thing and we tend to
party quite a bit.”
Two-thirds of the way round the

trail there is a beer stop, “though
we do offer soft drinks as well”.
“At the end we gather for a ceremony where ‘crimes’ such as competitive running or failing to refer
to a hasher by their hash name,
are punished by taking a drink.
“We have a meal in a local restaurant or perhaps a picnic or
BBQ at the home of a hasher, with
about 25 meeting up at one time.”
The Hash House Harriers began
in Malaysia in 1938, when British
expats started a hare and hounds
group. It spread after the Sec­ond
World War to Singa­pore, Indo­
nesia, Australia and New Zealand.
Mr Owen said he knows of three
other clubs in France, two in Paris
and one in Gers.
They always welcome new
members: “Our activity is a little
unusual as you don’t need experience or a qualification to join. We
are a group of people from all
sorts of backgrounds. And it is
modestly priced”.
facebook.com/pg/rivierahhh

THE British Charitable
Fund has, in 2018, been celebrating the bicentenary of the
birth of one of its most famous
benefactors, Sir Richard
Wallace, who gave both his
money and time to help starving British men, women and
children during the Prussian
siege of Paris, between
September 1870 to June 1871.
He was chairman from 1870
until his death in 1890.
The British Charitable Fund
was founded in 1823 to help
British residents living in hardship in France. It has no government or institutional funding but depends on donations,
legacies and fundraising events.
The charity gives top-up long
or short-term monthly grants
to help with outgoings such as
rent, electricity, food and heating. They sometimes also pay
for essential repairs, basic
household equipment, clothing,
medical expenses, education

See also Page 27
for Community events
and training to help someone
get back into the job market. In
December, they will send out
Christmas and heating grants.
BCF chairman Julia Kett said:
“Sir Richard was an extraordinary man, a great art collector
and philanthropist whose commitment to the well-being of
the poor in Paris should never
be forgotten. At the BCF we
aim to carry his spirit forward, addressing to the best of
our ability the changing but
ever-growing need within the
British community in France.”
The charity said applications
have increased sharply since
2006. Now there is the added
anxiety of Brexit and what it
may bring. The Connexion
supports the BCF by giving
some of the proceeds of the
sale of calendars to the charity.
www.britishcharitable
fundparis.org

Have your
group
featured
The Connexion regularly
features news and events
from community groups all
over France.
We would be pleased to
publicise your association
(non-commercial) – it’s a
great way to bring in new
members and it is free!
You can submit events via

connexionfrance.com/
Community

To have your association/
group featured email details to

news@connexionfrance.com

32 Practical

The Connexion December 2018

connexionfrance.com

RESIDENTS in care homes may be used to
having guide dogs around or seeing a “retired”
dog taken in for companionship... but one home
has gone further. Residents and staff are training
a young guide dog.
In what is thought to be a first, the Orpéa
Mimosas Ehpad at Magagnosc in Alpes-Maritimes
has worked with a guide dog training school to
train Nestlé, a golden labrador. The initiative has
since won a prize at the Silver Show 2018 in Paris.
The idea to become a famille d’accueil came
from residents who wanted a companion and to
do something to
help others.
Working with
events coordinator
Célia Ghalem,
home manager
Alexia Pratensi contacted L’Ecole Méditerranéenne de Chiens
Guides D’Aveugles in Biot a year ago.
Residents and staff have helped to train Nestlé.
Staff said people react happily to seeing her and
give plenty of hugs and affection. Visiting children
also love playing with her in the garden.
She has helped patients in reviving family
memories but also with their own memory as
each remembers her name, breed and age, plus
how to care for her. Visits to the vet and other
training routines also boost residents’ esteem as
they rediscover forgotten social habits and get
enjoyment out of making a social contribution.
A special day was being planned for Nestlé to
meet her new visually-impaired owner, Pedro.
See photos of Nestlé at our website.

Online medical records
relaunch on phone app
AN ONLINE medical records system which has
had a low take-up has been relaunched with a
phone app in the hope that 40 million patients
will be using it in five years’ time.
The DMP (dossier médical partagé) is now
more user-friendly. Instead of asking a doctor
to set it up, you do it yourself, though help is
available from a pharmacist, doctor, or health
authority (Cpam). Pharmacies are being given
€1 per dossier that they help set up.
Lack of enthusiasm from doctors, who found
previous versions too time-consuming to use,
was partly blamed for the low up-take.
It was previously on offer only in certain trial
regions, but the latest version has been made
available nationwide via website www.dmp.fr.
The DMP is free and optional, and only you
and professionals to whom you give access may
consult and add to it. You can hide items, track
additions or changes and, if you wish, close it –
or reactivate it.
It can contain hospital and X-ray notes,
doctors’ notes from consultations, blood tests,
allergies, important medical procedures undertaken, and medicines prescribed and delivered.
Cpams will add details of the last two years of
reimbursements and patients can add to it with
photos or any other documents about their
health – for example, by scanning paper
documents they would normally keep in a file
at home.
Patients who have a DMP can have a sticker on
their carte vitale and they will be able to consult
it via an app on phones. The app will also notify

Photo: GettyImages

Smiles all round as
care home residents
train a guide dog

Records can now be accessed via the app
them when a document is added. Doctors will
still be able to make personal notes but the DMP
will make it simpler for key health details to be
shared between professionals.
This ties in with aims to make more use of
“telemedicine” technology.
Patients will be able to see the whole of their
DMP, but the government says that medical
professionals will only be able to see the parts
relevant to them – for example, a doctor will see
it all, but a dietician or optician would not.
Administrative staff will not be able to see
medical information, and work and insurance
company doctors will not have access at all.
The Puma
system
explained

FRANCE’S ENGLISH-LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER

This topic and much more is
covered in our 64-page 2019
Healthcare in France helpguide,
priced €12.50. To order, see the
Helpguides section of our website
or call 0033 (0)6 40 55 71 63

Women urged to
join pension fight
A CAMPAIGN for women born in the 1950s
whose UK state pension ages were unexpectedly
hiked is urging women in France to join its international group (facebook.com/groups/Francewaspi).
Since 2015 Waspi has been seeking compensation due to pension ages being raised by up to six
years. They say they had little prior notice, other
than notices in newspapers that most did not see.
Waspi International spokeswoman Lynda
Armstrong lives in Ariège and has just started
receiving her pension “four years late”. She said
many members moved to France in expectation of
drawing pensions, only to face years of having to
pay for their healthcare and difficulties in finding
employment or accessing benefits. The drop in the
pound has also made it harder by lowering the
value of sterling savings or other incomes.
She said: “Some stories are horrendous and one
member had to sell up and go back to the UK.”
The international group hope the government
will start to listen after they wrote to their UK MPs.

Home help wage rise

PEOPLE who pay workers for services in the
home, such as a cleaner or gardener, can now use
a simulator on the official Cesu website to check
they have properly calculated a salary rise which
should have been applied on October 1.
The increase is proportional to a rise in the
homeworkers’ minimum wage from €8.45 net to
€8.55, factoring in 10% towards paid holidays.
This came with the removal of a part of the
employer’s social charges (towards unemployment
benefit) and does not affect the amount of the
gross (brut – before social charges) salary.
The simulator is at tinyurl.com/ycxujwux.

Should we apply to
bank mediator over
missing sale funds?
SINCE selling our French holiday home we have
been unable to access the proceeds of the sale
from the bank. Our notaire transferred the money
to our account in February. Since then we have not
returned to France and despite attempts to get a
response from our account manager, we have not
heard from him – recent requests, including for
a new cheque book or to change the account to
joint names, have also gone unanswered. Fearing
we may have a problem, we referred the matter
to the bank’s mediator. Have you heard of such
problems before and have we done the right thing
by going to the mediator? L.C.
WE HAVE not heard of such a problem before and are
not sure why you are unable to access the funds despite
them being transferred to the bank by the notaire.
There is no problem with going via the mediator but
we also suggest you telephone the bank directly or visit
in person to find out what is happening.
Usually, before applying to the designated mediator
for your bank, you should write an official réclamation
(letter of complaint) to your branch (you could address
it to your account manager (conseiller) or the branch
manager (le directeur d’agence ).
If the response is not satisfactory, you should usually
write to the bank’s customer service team and only
then, if the problem is still not resolved, should you
apply to the mediator.
An application to the mediator is also in writing and
they must reply within three months. Details of the
mediator can be found on a bank’s website (probably
under Réclamations) or on bank statements.

What is secure way to receive cash?
WHAT is the most secure way of receiving French
house sale money? We wish to buy in the UK in the
next couple of months. Is our French bank a better
option to pay the house sale money into on completion day than a currency exchange company?
We feel anxious about putting such a huge sum
into a currency company for future exchange to
sterling. Is it as secure as a French bank? D.R.
NORMALLY the notaire should only transfer the sums
to an account in your name, which is partly to avoid
the possibility of eventual fraud. What you then do
with the funds is up to you. So the issue is not so much
what you wish to do but more what the notaire will
be prepared to do. Same with the currency exchange
company as their rules may require transfers to them
to be made from private accounts, again – a general
comment – to avoid the possibility of fraud and them
being linked to such fraud in any way.
It is in any case most usual to make use of currency
transfer companies by making a transfer from your
own bank account to the company, either for an
immediate transfer or at a later date. We have not heard
of any problems with sending large amounts via one of
the reputable, regulated companies, if the service and
rates they offer suit your needs. Check UK-based firms
by a register search at tinyurl.com/y9toyxfy.

I bought via firm - what is tax position?

CAN YOU please tell me what a changement de
domiciliation means? I received a bank statement which debited several hundred euros from
my account under this heading. I live in England
but have had a holiday home for 26 years and my
mortgage, paid off now, was with this bank. A.M.

IN THE 1990s I retired in the UK, then was rehired
as a contractor but had to set up a limited
company. In 2001 we bought a French village
house but the purchase was made through the
company name. It is owned by myself, my wife, two
sons and three grandchildren, with me now having
a minority share. I am now in my 80s and if we
need to sell the house and change to a
bungalow, rather than having a lot of stairs, how
do we stand for French tax? D.L.

THIS can refer to either transferring your account to
another bank or moving it to another branch of the
same bank. However, as you do not mention this
happening, we cannot say what the charge may relate
to if not this. We suggest you check directly with your
bank – if you have online banking, you may be able to
do it via an online message to your account manager.

ON ANY sale of the property, as a company asset, it
would be taxed within the company, which may cause
issues if the company no longer has any income and
would not be able to pay the capital gains tax.
The principal private residence exemption may not
apply if the objects of the company have not been
changed to accommodate the possibility of holding a

What is changement de domiciliation?

CFE business
tax to be paid

The Connexion welcomes queries and publishes a selection with answers every edition.
However, please note that we cannot enter into correspondence on money topics.
Queries may be edited for length and style. Due to the sensitive nature of topics, we do
not publish full names or addresses on these pages.

Send your
financial queries to

Hugh MacDonald at

news@connexionfrance.com
private residence.
However, the tax due would be different whether the
company was liable to corporation tax or the business
profits liable to income tax. In that case some abatements could apply but conditions would apply for these
to be granted.
As such, one would advise consulting a professional
who can look at the totality of the facts.

Limits on Livret A account withdrawals
I UNDERSTAND that with Livret A savings accounts
there is a daily limit on cash dispenser withdrawals. Do you know, can you withdraw as much as
you like if you go to a counter in the branch? Also
is there any limit on how much you can transfer
from the Livret A to another account with the
same bank? B.S.
YOU WOULD have to check with your own bank but
there is often a standard limit of a maximum withdrawal of €800 from the bank counter per seven-day
period, and a withdrawal maximum of €500 using a
Livret A card at a machine, again in a seven-day period.
This said, these limits can be varied by separate agreement with the bank.
There would not usually be limits if making a transfer
to your own current account with the same bank but
there may be a limit or ban in the case of transfers to
an “external” account, including, in banks which are
organised regionally, to your own account with the
same bank in another region.
As a matter of interest, there are also minimum withdrawal amounts, set at €10 with all banks except the
Banque Postale, which has a minimum of €1.50.

The information on these pages is of a general nature. You should not
act or refrain from acting on it without taking professional advice on the
specific facts of your case. No liability is accepted in respect of these
articles. These articles are intended only as a general guide. Nothing herein
constitutes actual financial advice.

BUSINESS tax Cotisation
Foncière des Entreprises
(CFE) for 2018 must be paid
by midnight on December 17,
unless you have been paying in
instalments.
The tax, which funds local
councils, is payable by all
businesses, including microentreprise sole traders.
The calculation of the bill is a
“base” multiplied by a
percentage rate set by mairies or
intercommunal bodies. The base
is either the theoretical rental
value (VLC) of the business
premises or, if you work from
home, a set minimum also fixed
by the council.
For example, it is €218-519 for
a firm with an annual turnover
less than €10,000 (see: tinyurl.
com/ybqbmcds).
Firms with a turnover of less
than €5,000 are exempt. CFE is
also not payable in the first year
of business, then only 50% in
the second year. For some
exempt business types, see
tinyurl.com/yd7kh7m5.
You are not sent a postal bill
but must create a personal space
in the professional part of the
website impots.gouv.fr, activated
by a code sent in the post.
It is too late to opt for instalments and the end of November
is the deadline to choose payment by direct debit a few days
after the deadline (prélèvement
à l’échéance). Otherwise pay
online by clicking on Payer.

Promises made
on fuel money

PRESIDENT Macron has
insisted he wants to help less
well-off households with fuel
bills despite standing his ground
over higher taxes on vehicle fuel.
He said he wants to roll out
nationally a scheme in Hautsde-France giving €20/month to
those earning less than twice
the minimum wage who
commute by car more than
30km/day. It also wants it to be
made tax-exempt.
The chèque énergie, which
helps households on modest
incomes pay heating bills, is
also being boosted, rising from
an average €150 to €200 next
year and being given to 5.6million households up from 3.6m.

This column is by Bill Blevins
of Blevins Franks financial advice
group (www.blevinsfranks.com).
He has decades of experience
advising expatriates in France
and co-authored the Blevins
Franks Guide to Living in France

Anyone who has been living in France for a
while knows how frequently tax rules can
change – and how significantly, too.
In the last 10 years, we have seen wealth tax
reformed to make it less of a burden, then that
reform reversed, then a complete overhaul to
create a new tax.
We lost a fixed rate of tax on investment
income, then a few years later a new one was
introduced…
All this can create headaches for effective tax
planning.
You need to carry out regular reviews to make
sure your tax planning is up to date and you are
taking advantage of the tax mitigation opportunities the French tax regime has to offer.
2019 draft budget
A new President usually means tax reforms, and
we had that with the 2018 finance bill.
The 2019 budget, however, is one of those rare
occasions where very little changes.
The budget is not normally fully approved
until the end of the year, but from a tax point of
view we do not expect any significant announcements.
There is one big change in 2019, which is the
introduction of a pay-as-you-earn (PAYE) system in France (as discussed later in this article),
but that was part of the previous budget.

Income tax and social charges
There are no changes to income tax rates,
though the bands have increased very slightly
with inflation.
The 0% rate will cover income up to €9,964
and the highest 45% rate income over €156,244.
Social charges remain the same as last year:
9.7% for employment income, 9.1% for pensions
and 17.2% for investment (including rental)
income.
Investment income
2018 saw the introduction of the Prélèvement
Forfaitaire Unique, or ‘flat tax’ as it is commonly
known. This applies to interest, dividends and
capital gains on the sale of shares and securities.
It does not apply to rental income.
The rate is 30%, which includes income tax
and social charges.
The draft 2019 budget does not change this
rate. Lower income households can opt to use
the scale rates of income tax instead (plus social
charges), though this would have to apply to all
your income.

Assurance-vie
The draft 2019 budget does not include any
changes to assurance-vie. This is great news for
savers and investors who are looking for an
arrangement that provides both tax-efficient
income and estate planning advantages.
The 30% flat tax applies to policies set up after
26th September 2017.
Older ones can continue to opt for the previous flat tax system.
The allowance for policies held for more than
eight years stays in place for all policies (€4,600
for individuals and €9,200 for married/PACS
couples).

Wealth tax
2018 also heralded a big reform for wealth tax.
Instead of covering most of your worldwide
assets, it now only applies to real estate assets.
Savings and investments (including assurance-vie policies) are no longer subject to this
tax. Again, no changes have been proposed for
2019. The current threshold of €1,300,000
remains in place. Tax rates start at 0.5% for
assets between €800,000 and €1,300,000, rising
progressively to 1.5% for assets over €10,000,000.
This reform put property at a significant disadvantage to capital investments, particularly when
you consider that rental income does not benefit
from the 30% flat tax either.
If you are wondering where to invest, weigh
the tax considerations carefully. If you already
own more than one property, it may be worth
downsizing your property portfolio.

Succession tax
No changes have been announced for the succession tax regime. If you have not reviewed
your estate planning for a while, though, it is
always worth doing so to ensure you are taking
advantage of all the opportunities to lower this
tax for your family and heirs – particularly
where heirs will face the higher tax rates.
PAYE finally comes to France
After being in the pipeline for a number of
years, the new PAYE system start next year. It
means that from January 1, 2019, French tax residents will be subject to a monthly withholding
tax on income.
Note, however, that the French system is different from what you may be used to, for example
in the UK. The amount of PAYE deducted each
month in 2019 will be calculated on your 2017

income, as declared in May 2018. Any balance of
tax must be settled by the end of year.
Income subject to PAYE includes (but is not
limited to) employment income, retirement
income (pensions, lifetime annuities) including
UK pensions, other overseas income which is
taxable in France and rental income, including
from French properties earned by UK residents.
Investment income – interest, dividends, capital gains and gains from life insurance policies/
non-French assurance-vie – is excluded from
PAYE. It also does not apply to non-French
income that receives a tax credit in France under
a double tax treaty (eg. UK rental income earned
by a French resident).
For French source income, monthly PAYE will
be collected by the paying agent. For all your
other income, you will need to set up monthly
or quarterly direct debits to pay it yourself.
No-one ever said French tax was easy. Last
year’s reforms were welcome, and many people
who have savings and investments will see a difference in their tax bills this year. But this does
not lessen the need for a good understanding of
the complex regime and considered tax planning. With different assets being taxed quite differently now, it is worth, with the help of a tax
and wealth management adviser, reviewing your
investment assets.
As always, your tax planning arrangements
should be structured around your specific family
situation and your objectives.
n Tax rates, scope and reliefs may change.
Any statements concerning taxation are based
upon our understanding of current taxation laws
and practices which are subject to change. Tax
information has been summarised; an individual
is advised to seek personalised advice.

Selling your house in France?
Advertise your property at the France
Show Exhibition at Olympia, in January
For £170+VAT, we will:
•

Design and produce an A4 full colour leaflet

•

Print 150 copies of your leaflet

•

Display them on the Private Sellers stand

•

Display your property for sale for 3 months
on www.francepropertyshop.com

•

Include your leaflet in a
digital supplement sent to
French Property News
subscribers.

Deadline to book your private sales
package: 4th January 2019

Contact The France Sales Team for information on +44 (0)1242 264750 | privatesales@thefranceshow.com

www.thefranceshow.com

The Connexion

December 2018

Work 35

connexionfrance.com

Horses for courses... Holly’s route to a legal career
by JAMES HARRINGTON
HOLLY JESSOP is a Paris lawyer but
could not speak any French when her
family moved to rural Mayenne from
Dorset nearly two decades ago.
She was 11 at the time and went into
cinquième year at a local school with
what she described as “zero” French.
“I think I got through my first year
because I learnt everything by heart,”
she said. “I didn’t understand a word.
“This was rural France more than 15
years ago. The reaction was that I had
to learn French and that there was
nobody to help me.”
She added: “I was good at languages
which helped and it wasn’t too too
bad for me. It was more difficult for
my younger brother. He was two years
younger and he’s not a language
person like me so it took more time.”
The move itself had been a big
undertaking. The family was made up
of Holly, her two brothers, her mother
and stepfather – plus seven dogs and
two horses. But they managed it in
just two months.
“You just go with the flow. We got
here at the beginning of September.
By the middle of September, I was in
collège,” she said of the initial whirlwind that follows a big move. “I didn’t
have much time to think about it. All
that I wanted to ‘do’ was horses.
“As long as we brought the horses
with us, being in France rather than
the UK didn’t make much difference.

Growing up
in France...
A six-month series of
interviews with people who
moved here as children
2: Lawyer Holly Jessop
I’ve never really asked my parents why
they decided to make the move, but I
think it was the promise of selling a
small house in England for a lot of
money, buying a big house in France
and having a better life.”
That dream, initially, did not go to
plan. The sale of the family’s Dorset
home fell through shortly after they
had crossed the Channel, and the cost
of renovating their French property
was rising rapidly – but the family
stuck it out.
Meanwhile, Holly’s love of horses
would quietly mould later career decisions – though an early ambition to
become a vet fell through because her
maths and science marks were not
high enough. “Being a lawyer was
never something I wanted to be from
a young age. I fell into it,” she said.
“I had always wanted to work with
horses professionally, but my mother
wanted me to do something else with
my life. She said it’s too dangerous,

Holly Jessop (second right) says she ‘fell into’ being a successful lawyer
and told me to work and find a way to
own a horse. I finished lycée and
didn’t know what I was going to do
with my life so I went into law – I had
good enough marks.
“I did my degree in Nantes, then I
did my Masters in Paris because one
of my law teachers said that if you
ever do anything in the law, you have
to have a Masters from a Paris university so I went to Nanterre and did

Gazelle is boldly going where
no car-maker has gone before

Does your
tax planning
travel well?

by BRIAN McCULLOCH

The Gazelle prototype at the Bordeaux factory
When those cars have been put together, the
empty container can be detached and replaced
with another one full of kits. Gazelle Tech is
confident that it will sign an agreement with a
partner in North Africa for the first micro-factory in early 2019.
There is still some way to go: ground clearance,
essential for less developed countries, is 4cm
lower than planned due to a misunderstanding,
and the fit and finish of the panels is a long way
from what buyers will want from production
models, though the interior looks excellent.
The car has air conditioning and a sound
system as standard.
When Connexion visited the company’s premises in a “green” industry nursery near Bordeaux,
a test car had a problem with its clutch cable,
which meant only two usable gears, but that was
still enough for Mr Lavaud to take us for a spin.
Mechanics manager Emeric Bouteiller said:
“We will be offering training packages, and we
are able to tweak the design and the kits for each
customer. That way, if a local supplier is able to
find a source for a part locally, cheaper than we
can provide, they can do so.”

The tax planning vehicles you used
in the UK are unlikely to be effective
in France; ISAs are fully taxable
here, for example. You need to set up
new arrangements to make France a
tax-efficient place to live. Likewise,
French tax planning may not work
if you return to the UK. Blevins
Franks specialises in cross-border tax
planning and can provide solutions
for both countries.

A French start-up has a fresh idea – to design
a lightweight and thus fuel-efficient car which
can easily be converted into an electric version
and then to sell complete factories to make the
cars to countries with no motor factories.
The Gazelle, just 800kg with a one-litre, 85hp,
three-cylinder petrol engine, should use less
than three litres of fuel per 100km - with the
performance of a “normal” 170hp engine.
Early indications predict fuel savings of
30%-40% compared to similar-sized cars.
Around €1million has been invested in the car,
which is designed so its petrol motor can be
taken out and substituted with an electric one
and a battery, adding just 110kg to the weight.
The guide price for the Gazelle if it were to be
built in France, is around €15,000, which is
similar to a Dacia Duster.
Gazelle Tech founder and chairman Gaël
Lavaud said: “Our intention is not to build the
cars but to sell micro-factories and the kits to be
assembled in them, which we will make or have
made ourselves. They will let a team of four
people build around 200 cars a year.”
The Gazelle, looking a little like a 1950s hotrod
station wagon, is built out of patented sandwich
composite material, which is mainly glass fibre.
Parts are glued together, using techniques and
materials similar to those used to build commercial aircraft such as Boeing’s Dreamliner.
The Gazelle is expected to receive the go-ahead
to make it legal on French roads next year.
If all goes to plan, the company, which was
founded in 2014, will sell micro-factories, which
can be built on 100m2 of land, as well as receiving a licensing fee for each car sold.
The factories will arrive in the form of three
containers joined together for the factory space,
and a fourth detachable one which contains kits
for three or four cars.

business law. By the time I got to the
end of my Masters, I still didn’t know
what I was going to do but law school
entrance exams were opening so I just
put my name down.
“I worked really hard all summer. I
did two months non-stop studying
while working at a McDonald’s. I did
the exams and by January I was in law
school.”
Combining law and horses was not

as far-fetched as the idea might first
appear. “As soon as I started working,
I got back into horses,” Holly said.
“Then at the end of 2015 I went to the
races, and I saw all these horses
around me and it just hit me. Why
don’t I go into ‘horse law’? There’s
litigation, contracts, sales – sometimes
there’s a lot of money at stake.
“I played around with the idea, and
by early 2016 I had convinced myself
that’s what I wanted to specialise in.
Then I just went from there, networking and developing the concept.”
Holly, now 29, has now spent more
than half her lifetime in France, but
she finds her “very English” name still
marks her out.
“Even after having a degree, Masters
and going through French law school,
I’d go to interviews and they’d ask me
if my French was OK.
“I’ve been here more than I’ve been
in England, so I can’t compare the two
countries any more. I’m so used to
French ways, I don’t realise whether
they’re weird or not.
“It’s never easy, because there is a
system in France – it starts when
you’re in school and you have to be
part of it. If you’re not, you get
nowhere. You have to change yourself.
You have to put yourself in the system. You can’t exist out of the system
– I think that’s the most difficult part.
Once you’re in it, life is pretty easy.”
NEXT MONTH:
Chef Adam Smith

How self-employed
can access training
Can you outline the training
changes that begin in 2019 – I
am an English teacher
(self-employed) and hope to
benefit from them?
AS YOU are aware, microentrepre­neurs pay a professional training contribution as well
as a small levy towards the
expenses of the chambers of
commerce and trades.
Since January 2015, anyone
who sets up as a self-employed
artisan has been required to
undertake a four or five-day
business training course (stage
de préalable à l’installation or
SPI) organised by the
Chambres de Métiers et de
l’Artisanat.
Similar courses are available
to those setting up commercial
and industrial businesses,
though these are optional.
But training available to the
self-employed is not limited to
this initial course – and any
self-employed person can
access continuing professional
training of any kind whenever
they want. For some – such as
doctors or lawyers – it may be
a legal requirement.
It is also possible to receive

The Connexion

connexionfrance.com

financial help with some or all
of the costs of any training
courses.
Training funds are administered by different groups,
depending on the business you
operate in. Log on to the website https://www.service-public.
fr/professionnels-entreprises/
vosdroits/F31148 for a list of
options.
To apply for financial help,
submit a request to the appropriate body at least one month
before the start of the training
programme.
Be aware that only teaching
costs, including distance
learning, are reimbursed.
You cannot claim for meals,
hotels and transport – and
there is an annual training
course ceiling of funding for
every self-employed person.
Organisations such as
chambers of commerce and
industry, chambers of trades
and crafts, business schools,
universities and vocational
training organisations offer
short, medium and long-term
training courses.
They may also be able to help
with funding. Contact details
can be found online.

Small business
and tax advice
Letting a home in France
Q: I LIVE in the UK and have a holiday home in France, which I
would like to let. How would the letting income be treated by
France? How do I get a tax form and what must I complete?
A: You can obtain the relevant forms by searching at impots.
gouv.fr. In the first year declarations must be made in paper format and sent to: Service des impôts des particuliers non-résidents,
10 rue du Centre, TSA 10010, 93465 NOISY-LE-GRAND Cedex.
The next year, once you have received a second declaration
form and an assessment for the first year, you can declare online
using reference numbers and codes found on these two forms.
Income from furnished letting in France, if it is within certain
thresholds, may be taxed under the micro system, with fixed
abatements of 30% (unfurnished) or 50% (furnished) to cover
expenses and it is declared on the 2042C PRO form (you can opt
to declare under the réel system if you have a lot of expenses you
wish to offset - but this option must be taken up for at least three
years and it involves extra accounting formalities).
French income of all non-residents is taxed at a flat rate of 20%
(plus social charges) unless your French income is of a size to
merit a higher French tax band. However, if you believe that
France would give a lower percentage rate if it assessed and
taxed your worldwide income you can apply for that rate instead.
Q: IS IT possible to rent out my home in France for a few weeks
to holidaymakers (when I am away) without any tax implications?
A: THE RENTAL income of property, including for tourism, is declarable and the income may be taxed, usually after the application of an
abatement for expenses. Whether this attracts income tax depends on
the level of your other income. Part of your main home can occasionally be rented and the income is exempt from tax if it is less than €760.
Determining a tax regime and/or bands can be complicated and as
with any tax declarations you may wish to seek assistance from an
appropriately qualified firm.
This column is sponsored by Olaf Muscat Baron who is a Fellow
of the Chartered Association of Accountants UK, a French
expert comptable and an International tax advisor. He is the principal
accountant of Fiscaly, an accountancy firm based in the Dordogne
which serves individuals and businesses in or out of France.
See www.fiscaly.fr or call 09 81 09 00 15

December 2018

Woodwind-makers need good
hands - and real love of music
CRAFTS

“

in focus

It is important to
go and see your
musicians face to
face ... to spend
time building
relationships with
the people who are
going to play your
instruments

by JANE HANKS
RECORDER-maker Etienne
Holmblat is self-taught but his
high-end musical instruments
are now sold all over Europe.
Mr Holmblat, 62, learned the
basic techniques when he
studied mechanics and
draughtsmanship at school and
on an instrument repair course
– then went on to develop
much of his art by trial, error
and persistence.
He fell into the business as a
young man when a flute he was
learning to play needed
expensive repairs and his
teacher suggested he fix it himself. He went on to get a qualification to mend instruments
and opened his shop in Pau, in
the Pyrénées Atlantiques.
His love of the recorder also
came from his teacher.
He said: “One day he gave me
a disc of someone playing the
recorder. It was a revelation. I
instantly fell in love with this
instrument.”
So he started making them:
“The first one was a simple,
three-hole traditional flute.
Fortunately, it played well.
“From then on, I worked at it.
When you make instruments,
you have to remain humble
because you can never learn all
there is to know about making
the perfect instrument.
“To be an instrument-maker
you do not have to be a musician, but you do have to have a
real love of music.
“You need to be good with
your hands and have a good
technical and mechanical
knowledge to know how to put
things together. You need to be
meticulous.”
Mr Holmblat’s recorders,
made in the workshop at his
home near Pau, cost from €200
to €1,870 depending on the
materials, complexity and time
needed to make them.
He said: “I think it is important to go and see your musicians face to face, so that takes
time away from the workshop,
but it is important to spend
time building relationships with

Recorder-maker
Etienne Holmblat
the people who are going to
play your instruments.”
Mr Holmblat makes about
two instruments a month, and
he has four on the go at any
one time.
Choice of wood is important.
Most of his are made from
boxwood from the Pyrénées,
which has to be cut at the right
time of the year and during the
right phase of the moon.
His preferred wood grows at
altitude, which he says makes it
denser than faster-growing
boxwood found on the plains.
One of his most extraordinary recorders, made in 2010,
is in tortoise shell and ivory,
which is a replica of an 18th
century one he saw in a museum. He had to adhere to the
strict regulations in force for
these precious materials and
had to learn how to work the
tortoise shell, which few people
in France know how to do. It is
a remarkable, beautiful piece.
His reward is hearing his
recorders, each one of which is
unique, played sympathetically
by a musician who really
understands and appreciates
the instrument.
“When I go to a concert
where someone is playing one
of my recorders I am always
concerned that something will
go wrong with the instrument.
But when I hear it, it is an
immense pleasure,” he said.

Etienne
Holmblat
at his
workshop,
creating
his
tortoise
shell and
ivory
recorder

The tortoise shell and ivory recorder being made
French wind instrumentmakers are regarded as among
the best in the world. The
Institut National des Métiers
d’Art says that 90% of professional musicians play French
instruments.
The main competition is
from Asia but as their makers
concentrate on beginner and
amateur instruments, France
still dominates the high-end
market. Three-quarters of
woodwind instruments made
in France – from bassoons and
clarinets to recorders and
oboes – are exported.
There are a few semi-industrial manufacturers, such as
Buffet Crampon, Rigoutat,
Marigaux and Selmer, but most
woodwind instrument-makers
in France are sole-trader
artisans, making, repairing,
and restoring instruments.
A maker must master several
disciplines - from knowing the
type of wood to use, how to
season it and work with it to
having the skills to produce
each instrument’s distinctive
shape, using precision tools.
Making the borehole through
the main body cylinder is
important to achieve the sound
required. Understanding the
mechanics and the science of
the instrument is vital to be
able to make the finger holes
the right size and the right
distance apart.
The maker must have musical
knowledge to be able to fine-

tune the instrument. Finally, as
many instrument-makers work
on their own, they must be
able to sell their finished result,
which can include making
contacts with musicians,
creating websites and going
to trade fairs.
There are opportunities to
learn the craft but available
courses are designed more for
repair and factory work than
for being an independent
maker.
The basic qualification is a
two-year Certificat d’Aptitude
Professionnelle, CAP: Assistant
technique en instruments de
musique, option instruments à
vent, which teaches repair
techniques.
This can be followed by a
two-year Brevet des Métiers
d’Art called BMA Technicien en
facture instrumentale, option
instruments à vent, which
introduces more techniques
but leads to work in a factory.
After this there is a two-year
DMA (Diplôme des Métiers
d’Art), the equivalent of a BTS,
called DMA de facteur d’instruments à vent.
The Institut Technologique
Européen des Métiers de la
Musique at Le Mans is one of
the best-known places to study.
However, no one needs a
qualification to make and sell
instruments. Most instrumentmakers learn by getting in
touch with a maker and by
watching him or her at work.

The Connexion

December 2018

Photos: Simon Hanks

The empty houses in Ménéham on north Finistère coast have been turned into a historic monument to 19th-century life

The corps de garde building between two huge boulders

The Maison Salou is named after the last family to live there

Remembrance of times past

The village of Ménéham on Brittany’s
north Finistère coast has been restored to
show visitors the typical lifestyle of peasant
farmers and fishermen in the 19th and
20th centuries.
The 14 houses, where around 80 people
used to live but which were falling into
ruin, were restored from 2004 to 2009 to
showcase the traditional rustic architecture
of the region.
The last person to live in the villageturned-tourist attraction (meneham.bzh)
moved out in 2001. Similar homes can be
seen in villages and towns along the coast,
though many have been knocked down
and replaced by more modern housing.
The first houses were built around 1840.
Peasant farmers’ houses in many other
parts of France were large and shared with
animals during the winter – often including a barn to stock hay, crops and
provisions – but these houses are
noticeable for their small size.
They were made up of one room on one
storey and barns were built on either side
of the dwelling place. Additional houses
would be built on as the family grew.
The building stone was the local granite
and they were thatched.
Jessica Marrec from the Office de
Tourisme de la Côte des Légendes says that
though the roofs look perfect today, they
were not as pristine for the people living in
them. “The reeds came from the local
marshes and were not very strong and so
they had to be repaired frequently.
“One side would be patched up one year
and the other side the next. When the
cottages were restored, better quality reed
was bought from other parts of France to
make the thatch longer-lasting.”
The Maison Salou, named after the last
family to live there, was turned into a
museum following the restoration of the
village by the Communauté de Communes
Pays de Lesneven et de la Côte des
Légendes and the Finistère Conseil
Général.
It is a perfect example of this type of
housing. Mrs Marrec says: “It is interesting
to note where it was built.
“It is behind some huge boulders, typical

Property 37

connexionfrance.com

Architecture
of France...
Coastal
Brittany

By JANE
HANKS

of the region to protect it from the strong
prevailing coastal winds, and all the doors
and windows face inland. On the coastal
side there are no openings at all.”
The windows are small, to keep out the
weather and reduce window taxes, and
they and the door are painted white
around the opening. Mrs Marrec says this
was deliberate to reflect any light from the
outside into the dark interior.
Inside the furnishing was rudimentary,
with a fireplace at both ends of the room, a
plain table and benches and box beds.
“Often three generations would live in
the same room, so to give some warmth
and privacy there would be on average
three box beds in a house: one for the
grandparents, one for the parents and one
for the children.
“If there were several children, some
would have to sleep out in the room.”
Life was hard but they took care of what
they owned and every Saturday all the
furniture would be taken outside, the mud
floor swept and everything else cleaned
with white vinegar. Whenever they could,
the family lived outdoors.
They made their living from the land and
the sea. Now the village is surrounded by
green turf, but when people were living
there, all available land was turned over to
vegetable gardens near the houses and
grain crops further away.
The soil was poor and the weather
unkind and they could not live from
farming alone so they turned to fishing.
“The women would use nets for fish and
the men were in charge of catching crabs,
lobsters and shellfish using baskets they
made themselves.
“They did not eat any of the fish, other
than ones which people would not buy, as

they were too valuable. They also collected
seaweed and were called paysans-pêcheursgoémoniers, from the word goémon, meaning seaweed collected for use by man.
“First it was used to fertilise the land and
then, when it was discovered that it was a
natural source of iodine and sodium
alginate, used in pharmaceuticals, food
and textile printing.”
Despite their harsh life, Mrs Marrec says
people who are still alive and who lived
there have good memories: “We have
talked to the old villagers and they say that
even though they worked hard, there was a
good atmosphere and they were happy.
“There were no shops. They made
everything themselves and shared. There
were three bread ovens and when a pig was
killed, the meat would be handed around as
without fridges they knew a family couldn’t
keep it all for themselves. There was, of
course the bistrot. No Brittany village was
complete without a bar.”
The first building on the site was an
army look-out post built as part of the
coastal defences during the 18th century.
Called the corps de garde, it is famously
built between two huge boulders and looks
out to sea, across the Channel towards the
British enemy at the time.
It has an unusual roof, built out of flat
slabs of rock. Legend has it that whenever
the soldiers were away, locals would steal
the wooden roof beams, as wood in that
treeless landscape was rare, and so the
army decided to thwart the robbers by
using stone.
They filled the building with sand and
laid the stones, only emptying the building
of sand once the mortar was set.
First the soldiers lodged in nearby
villages. Then a barracks was built, and it
is recognisable as the only housing with
windows looking seaward rather than
landward. At the same time other housing
was built for the farming families and little
by little they were added to.
During the second part of the 20th
century the population waned. Now the
village sees more people than ever before
as the site attracts between 120,000 and
150,000 visitors a year.

Property Watch
in

Pays de la Loire

REGIONAL CAPITAL: Nantes
DEPARTMENTS: Loire-Atlantique, Maine-et-Loire,
Mayenne, Sarthe, Vendée
MAIN CITIES: Nantes, Châteaubriant, Saint-Nazaire, Angers,
Cholet, Saumur, Segré, Laval, Château-Gontier, Mayenne,
Le Mans, La Flèche, Mamers, La Roche-sur-Yon,
Fontenay-le-Comte, Les Sables-d’Olonne
The name may sound historic, but Pays de la Loire is a
relatively new region of western France that overlooks the
Bay of Biscay and encompasses part of the Loire Valley,
famed for its vineyards and chateaux.
It was created in the 1950s to serve as a zone of influence
for its capital Nantes, the former capital of Brittany, and
is one of a handful of so-called “balancing metropolises”
(métropoles d’équilibre). It contains a 20% slice of historic
Brittany and all of the former provinces of Anjou and Maine,
as well as parts of Poitou, Perche and Touraine.
It offers the best of most worlds. The wild and rugged
Atlantic coast contrasts with the lush, green countryside and
rivers of the Loire valley in the centre.
There are vast rural areas plus large urban conurbations
and economic centres. It enjoys a temperate climate, with
generally mild winters and warm summers.
It also boasts good transport links – Nantes airport
has services to airports across the UK, while ferry ports
at St Malo, Caen, Cherbourg and Le Havre are within
straightforward travelling distance.
Property prices range from highs of €2,210/m2 in the
Loire-Atlantique department, with prices mainly driven by the
attractiveness of Nantes – where prices rise to an average of
2,820/m2, and can soar well past the €3,000/m2 mark – to
the much lower €1,120 in rural Mayenne.

What your money buys
Under €100,000

Fantastic opportunity to purchase
a pretty two-bed stone village
house, complete with furniture!
On the edge of a village with bar
and with great kerb appeal, a goodsized garden, private parking and furnished, a great opportunity for you to
own a holiday home in Carelles.
€65,000 Ref: 90227AFE53

A delightful country house
near the centre of the village
of Saint-Quentin-les-Anges
A very private setting with the chance
to create something really special. At
the end of a farm track surrounded by
farmland, with 4000m² of land, this
would be ideal as a smallholding.
€99,000 Ref: P182988DSF

More than €200,000

Fabulous six-bed maison de
maître with indoor heated swimming pool – superb B&B potential
With its walled gardens, large plot,
and huge separate annexe, this
property is ready to be updated as
the new owners see fit. Within walking
distance of the centre of Pré-en-Pail.
€240,750 Ref: 92028DWR53

Four-bed villa with private garden
and pool set in a gated golf
residence in L’Aiguillon-sur-Vie
Here you will be able to enjoy all the
benefits of the golf site, including
the outdoor swimming pool, tennis
courts, restaurant and the course
itself. Just 80km from Nantes airport.
€318,000 Ref: 59640SG85

Q: My sister has gone through
a divorce in the UK. The judge
awarded their house in France to
him. I read a post which said that
French law takes precedence
over English law in France and
the judge cannot force her to
sell. My sister’s ex-husband says
that the house is now his and
he can do what he wants with
it – but would he still need my
sister’s permission to sell? He is
in the process of selling. P.H.
A: I cannot comment on
the specific UK court order
which you say awarded ownership of the French house
to your sister’s ex-husband.
What I can say is that we
often deal with transfers
of ownership following a
divorce where either the UK
court orders the transfer of
ownership from joint names
into the name of one party,
or where the parties agree
in a Consent Order that one
will transfer their half-share
of a French property to the
other as part of the overall
settlement.
A notaire in France will act
on a UK Court Order or a
Consent Order. If one party
refuses to co-operate, it is
possible to go back to the

UK court to force the reluctant joint owner to act. In
your sister’s case, she could
be forced to co-operate.
If she has not yet signed
any French document to
transfer her share of the
house to her ex-husband,
the house is still jointly
owned by the two of them.
If her ex wishes to sell, your
sister will either need to sign
both a sale contract and
the final sale deed, or will
be asked to sign a Power of
Attorney authorising one of
the clerks of the notaire’s
office in France to sign on
her behalf. The notaire will
need to see the Court Order
and is likely to require a
certified translation.
In summary, if the property
is jointly owned and she has
not signed any French deed
transferring ownership to
him, he cannot sell without
her involvement.
If the property has been
marketed via an estate
agent, the agent should
have obtained your sister’s
consent as a joint owner before starting any marketing
and your sister should have
been asked to sign a sale
mandate.

Q: I have been advised to only
use renovation professionals
who are ‘RGE’ registered – does
this mean other workers are not
legally registered? T.B.
A: NON-RGE workers can be
legally registered but there
are several advantages to
having work carried out by
RGE artisans.
For example, if you are applying for certain tax breaks
or government assistance
on materials to improve your
home’s energy efficiency,
the work must be carried
out by correctly registered
workers and this is guaranteed by the RGE label.
Regardless of whether
you are applying for aid, the
RGE label, which stands for
Reconnu Garant de l’Environnement, is a guarantee
of professional, technical

and financial capacities
for quality work. To be
registered, professionals
must comply with a range
of administrative and legal
obligations, including in
terms of insurance with the
10-year guarantee.
RGE-registered artisans
are not difficult to find.
There are nearly 60,000
currently working across
the country. The label last
four years before needing to
be renewed and there are
frequent checks.
There is a caveat. RGE
certification covers a range
of specific jobs. For example, a professional may be
certified to fit a heat pump
but not necessarily a condensing boiler. An RGE-registered artisan will be able
to show you what they are
‘qualified’ to work on.

Tel: 05 61 57 90 86  www.brightavocats.com
contact@brightavocats.com
If you have a legal query send it to news@connexionfrance.com
We select questions for answer every edition

December 2018

empty churches back to life
THEY may not be the most
obvious choice for a new home
or business, but about 20
churches a year are being
turned into hotels, restaurants,
houses – and even a gym.
There are about 90,000
édifices religieux in France,
according to the Observatoire
du Patri­moine Religieux, and
about 500 are at risk.
Many are for sale after years
of low maintenance have left
them needing costly repairs
and upgrades.
They are often in key sites,
have lots of space, inside and
out, and beautiful features,
and are available at a wide
range of prices.
One in Nantes caught the
eye of businessman Benoît
Boiteau who, after years in
drinks distribution, was
looking for a new career and
recognised that a 630m2
church near both railway
and tramway could be turned
into something special.
Now the old Chapelle de la
Petite Sagesse has been turned
into the four-star Sōzō Hotel,
with 23 rooms and a suite, all
built on different levels and

Stained
glass gives
the Sōzō
Hotel in
Nantes
a very
luxurious
feel that
seems
worth its
four stars...
some of the
rooms on
the second
floor have
ceilings
that are
5.5m high

Photo: Sōzō Hotel

Your questions
answered

The Connexion

connexionfrance.com

each having a close-up view of
the church’s interior features
under the 17m high roof.
It is not alone. An old church
in Angers is now a nightclub,
one in Tavey, Franche-Comté,
is a family home, another is a
restaurant in Aix-en-Provence,
one in Sarlat, Dordogne, is an
indoor market, and the one in
Courrières, Pas-de-Calais, has
become a police station.
The majority of churches are
owned by the mairie but are

often much-loved buildings
where the religious community
will have a say in their future
use. That is why a church in
Tourcoing, Nord, was sold for
€20,000 and turned into a
community cultural centre and
not the proposed chip shop.
Churches are also selling off
buildings as they become
uneconomical – and especially
expensive to heat. Eglise SaintJules in Longwy, near Nancy, is
for sale at €190,000 as its

renovation would cost
hundreds of thousands and
annual heating bills for the
150m2 of space can hit €30,000.
Tight finances in communes
often mean unused religious
buildings can quickly fall into
disrepair and the Confér­ence
des Evêques de France
organised a nuit des églises to
highlight the situation and
push for crowdfunding to be
used to keep such local features
alive, rather than demolished.

We did it!

A home AND a
concert venue?
That’ll do nicely

American-British classical pianist
Kit Armstrong has no particular religious
attachment, but the practical possibilities
of living in a church attracted him and
his mother, May, when the idea was first
put to them.
“We were looking for properties and the
estate agent suggested this church, so we
went to have a look,” he said. “Once we
were there, the possibilities opened up
and we decided to buy it in 2012.”
Although not a churchgoer, Kit is familiar with churches due to his work as a
concert pianist. “They are often used as
venues for concerts,” he said. “In smaller
towns they are sometimes the only venue
suitable for a concert. The acoustics in
churches are usually very good for music
because they were built with music in
mind. And of course, over the years there
has been a lot of music written for the
church, which sounds best in churches.”
Kit and May approached the town
council in Hirson, Aisne, where the art
deco, reinforced-concrete Sainte Thérèse
de l’Enfant Jésus church is an important
building opposite the railway station.
“The town council was keen for the
building to be used for cultural purposes
and when we first approached them with
our idea for the main body of the church
to be used as a concert venue, as well as
my practice area, they gave us full-hearted support,” said Kit.
“The help of the town has been invaluable in getting all the planning permissions and other administrative help.”

Concert pianist Kit Armstrong in the
church he bought and converted into
a concert venue and six-bed home
The main body of the church has
remained largely untouched. It is where
Kit practises and where concerts are held.
He and May live in what was the sacristy,
which they have converted into a six-bedroom apartment. “We needed space to
put up the visiting musicians and friends
who we invite for concerts,” Kit said.
Being of relatively modern construction
and in the centre of town, the church was
fully supplied with water and electricity.
Work on the building had started in
1929 and it was designed and paid for by
the inventor of reinforced concrete pipes,
Aimé Bonna, who grew up in the town.
Kit left most of the work to professionals, but did and does, some DIY projects.
“When you own a building there are
always things which come up,” he said.
He and May spent €125,000 to buy the
church in 2012, but the work has added
to the bill ‘by several factors’.
Grants from the town, department and
cultural organisations have helped with
the public part of the building, especially
in meeting the standards for fire safety

and other public access requirements.
They have also helped with the promotion of concerts held every year since
2014, which have been packed out.
Kit formed an association to promote
music in the town, which also provides
help and support. His contacts in the
music world have helped get some big
names to Hirson, a small town of around
10,000 people, which was not previously
known as a cultural centre.
“Everyone who has come to play has
been very enthusiastic.
“It is a very nice town, and the countryside around it is wonderful.”
While there is a lot of on-going maintenance, (and a roof which will need repair
work in the future) the experience of living and working in the church has been
overwhelmingly positive.
“There are times when you get up in the
morning and come out into this magnificent space which is our living room, and
you are just conscious of how very special
it is,” said Kit.
“They are moments to live for.”

The Connexion

December 2018

connexionfrance.com

Some buyers fear renovation
but others welcome it... our
writer Nick Inman has a foot in
both camps, as he tells in this
first of a series of articles
THERE is a vast difference between
repairing a two-and-a-half-bed interwar terrace house in north London and
renovating a farm in Gascony. But while
it may be obvious to many, I only
realised what I had let myself in for
when I arrived 16 years ago, bridges
burned and with grand visions of what I
was going to do to the new place.
Everything was unfamiliar – not least
the language and the DIY shops – but
there were two other major differences.
One was the architecture: the materials
of which the house was built and the
traditional construction methods. The
walls made of round river stones and
the oak roof timbers held together with
wooden pegs were exotic and alien.
But the really big difference was the
space I had acquired. I found myself
with a lot more building to be
maintained or transformed.
The estate agent who sold us the house
– now a friend – saw the daunted look
on my face as we stood discussing what
to do to realise the property’s potential
and gave me a piece of good advice:

Plans to change the CITE tax
credit for energy efficiency renovations into a grant have been
delayed by a year, so residents
must still apply for a credit.
Ministers also said that while
the CITE to swap single-glazed
windows and doors for double
glazing was ending the reduced
5.5% VAT rate continued for
replacements and also for work
such as plastering and painting.

Tenant owes landlord
€46k in ‘Airbnb rent’
A TENANT who sublet her
Paris property on rentals website Airbnb without proper
consent has been ordered to
pay her landlord all the money
she received in illegal rents.
The tenant was found to have
breached a clause in her rental
lease, and was ordered to pay
€46,000 plus €1,000 damages.
The court also ordered that she
should be evicted.

Fraud alerts on rise –
but not by enough
AN increasing number of
fraud and money-laundering
alerts from property professionals have been logged by the
Tracfin anti-corruption agency.
Notaires signalled 1,400 sales
in 2017, up 34% on 2016,
mostly for international buyers
and tax fraud. Although estate
agent alerts were up 140%, this
was too few given the market
rise and all sizes of company
were warned to be attentive.

When you
don’t have
a ...clou

“The first thing you need to do is get
yourself to the Big Ladder Shop.” (He
really did say it with capital letters.)
My first DIY purchase therefore was
an extending aluminium ladder long
enough to reach the barn gutters but
light enough to manhandle without aid.
The ladder shop also made and sold
something much more interesting:
scaffolding. I was not at that moment
the sort of person who owned scaffolding. It would be an expensive item and I
wasn’t sure I would ever use it. But there
was a lot to do to the house and much of
it was a long way above ground level.
Besides, I had plenty of storage space
for such a bulky item... I had to fill the
cowshed with something.
I ummed and ahhed over buying the
scaffolding but it was being sold at a
discount during the local agricultural
fair and I bought it on a whim, expecting it to be little more than an adult
climbing frame. Looking back, it is the

best purchase I ever made. It’s constantly
being assembled or disassembled and
moved around the property.
I use it inside sometimes – putting up
plasterboard ceilings – but mainly outside where an elevated platform is a
better place to stand while doing
extended heavy duty jobs than a ladder.
It has also proved useful for barter: I
lend it to friends when asked and they
give me help and advice when needed.
I did not shop around and do not
know how it compares with other
models but I know my rig suits me.
Extremely light and easy to put together in various combinations, it stores flat
and fits piece by piece in a hatchback
with the seats down. The design has
been improved since I bought it but the
company still makes extra components
for the old model on demand.
Working at height requires care but I
have had only one nasty scare, caused by
my own overconfidence. That was
enough. For security, I wear a climbing
harness bought in Decathlon and clip
myself on to the building wherever I
can, using climbing rope and carabiners.
Back in London, only real workmen
clamber around on scaffolding. Looks
like now that I have moved to France, I
have become one of their number.
n The Big Ladder Shop [Neressy] can be
found at echelles-neressy.fr

Scale of farm renovation was a shock... as were the techniques used

Rooftop gardens give fresh
food and breath of fresh air
PARIS is in the middle of a giant project to
clear the city’s air by creating urban farms
on rooftops and open spaces.
With memories of this summer’s stifling
heatwave still fresh, it is hoped that plans
to plant 30 hectares of gardens will help
cool parts of the city as vegetation cuts
reflected and absorbed heat in buildings.
It has the added advantage of providing
fresh herbs, fruit and vegetables - and even
hops for beer and grapevines for wine.
Although about 30 hectares is a drop in
the ocean in the 105km2 of Paris, the city
has plenty of green spaces and wants more
as it is also planning to plant 100ha of
greenery on municipal building walls.
The city’s Parisculteurs scheme has more
than 60 projects in place or starting and
more businesses are coming up with their
own plans to help ease the “urban heat
island” effect, where cities are warmer than
the surrounding land, making for
especially difficult conditions in summer.
In the centre, a new batch of 33 projects
has been approved and the scheme has so
far given a total of 1km of walls covered in
hops, a herb and hydroponic garden at the
Bourse producing 12tonnes of cauliflower,
cucumber, peppers and strawberries, plus
a 2,500m2 market garden at Opéra Bastille
that has hundreds of hop plants which will
be used to make Paris beer in the cellars.
The 33 new projects are intended to
produce 1,000 tonnes of fruit and veg, one
million cut flowers and 1.3 million plants.
A new aquaponics farm at the Centre
sportif Poissonniers will have fish tanks
producing four tonnes of rainbow trout,
with waste providing minerals for six

Photo: Very Happy Media

Green efficiency tax
credit move delayed

DIY

Photo: Nick Inman

Mistakes and ladders... building
a new life as a budding artisan

Property 39

Bank’s rooftop garden keeps building cool and staff in supplies of fresh produce
tonnes of vegetables and strawberries. On
the outskirts, BNP Paribas has just opened
an urban farm above its offices at Issy-lesMoulineaux and staff are already helping
themselves to fresh produce.
Two buildings have rooftop gardens: one
is open to all staff to pick-their-own while
the other is for workers who subscribe to a
scheme to care for the garden and harvest
tomatoes, raspberries and herbs.
It is a pilot for further schemes in the city
and further afield, working with the
community farm group Peas&Love and
gardening consultant Mugo, known for its
inventive green projects in commercial
centres, offices and supermarkets.
Antoine Guibourgé of Mugo said: “We

develop expertise in urban farms; cultivating market garden sites as productive
farms with a sustainable business model.
“Projects contribute to reclaiming urban
land by flora and fauna. Each recreates
ecosystems – the biological machines with
depolluting functions that serve the city
and its inhabitants – and we want to
transform towns into a living landscape.”
Paris has also called on would-be gardeners to apply for a permis de végétaliser to
create and maintain green space on street
corners or other unused land. In return, it
will give them a planting kit with seeds.
Deputy mayor Pénélope Kom­itès said
Paris would need “one and a half times the
city area” to be totally self-sufficient.

Chateau
owners lose
fight to halt
wind farm
A WIND FARM must directly
affect the use of a property –
and not just be visible from it –
in order for the property owners to object to its construction,
a recent ruling by France’s
highest administrative court
has found.
P&T Technol­ogie applied for
planning permission for a wind
farm with five turbines at La
Chapelle-Glain, in LoireAtlantique.
Owners at nearby MotteGlain Château objected. They
tried to get permission refused
and then, when it was granted,
overturned, as the 116m
turbines would be visible from
the second floor in the western
part of the chateau.
They won their case to overturn the permission, but P&T
Technol­ogie appealed to the
Conseil d’Etat.
Judges there ruled that, as the
chateau was 2.5km from the
wind farm, and given the
building’s layout, the owners
did not have significant reason
to object. The ruling said: “The
mere fact of being able to see
wind turbines is not enough to
challenge a building permit.
“It is only when it affects the
use of the property that they
would have the right to object.”

The Back Page

The Connexion

connexionfrance.com

December 2018

A ‘little bit of artwork’ on every envelope
by BRIAN McCULLOCH
LA POSTE has a tradition of inviting
artists to create stamps and one of
the most popular ever produced
commemorated the 70th anniversary
of the D-Day landings in 2014.
The €0.66 stamp, available for postal
use and for collectors, was created by
noted illustrator Nicolas Vial, one of
16 artists who have designed stamps
in recent years for La Poste.
Mr Vial says he designs stamps the
same way he thinks of posters.
“You have to think of the message
you want to get across and how to do
that with the maximum impact,” he
told Connexion.
He uses a large piece of paper to
design his stamps but, as he works,
imagines how it will look as a stamp
on an envelope and of the graphic
processes it will go through.
“You have to be clean and precise for
most stamps to work,” he said.
His personal favourite is an €0.85
one which went on sale in May to
mark the 50th anniversary of the
Société Nationale de Sauvetage en
Mer. “It is very vertical and I think it
works very well,” he said.
Claude Désarménien, president of
the Fédération Française des
Associations Philatéliques (FFAP),
said: “For most stamp collectors, the
special issue artist stamps are not for
their albums, but they can attract a lot
of interest from the public. When the

Above, Nicolas
Vial’s D-Day
70th anniversary stamp.
From far left:
Mr Vial’s
favourite
design; the
‘Marianne de
Macron’; and
‘art’ stamps
on sale now
artists are at exhibitions, people line
up to have the stamps signed by them.
It is a way of having your own little bit
of artwork.”
Mr Désarménien said: “The passion
is the same for collectors all over the

world and when I go to international
events, the French collector is just like
the British or Czech one.
“Most French enthusiasts collect
French stamps but one member has
an award-winning collection of New

Zealand stamps.” The number of
stamp collectors in France is falling.
“In the 1970s we had 55,000 members, now we are down to 22,000 and
most of us are elderly,” he said.
“When you send most of your com-

munications by email or telephone
messages, and do not have the simple
pleasure of receiving a letter with a
stamp from a foreign country, it is
difficult to get bitten by the bug.”
One of the traditions of La Poste is
the continuing use of Marianne as a
symbol of liberty, instead of a portrait
of a politician or head of state.
Over the last couple of decades, the
features of Marianne have changed
each time there is a new president.
Emmanuel Macron unveiled the
new Marianne at a ceremony at La
Poste’s stamp printing works in
Périgueux.
Nicknamed the “Marianne de
Macron”, the stamp was drawn by
Franco-British street artist Yseult
Digan and engraved by Elsa Catelin.
This new Marianne has been
described by experts as austere,
despite her tangled hair.
At the same time La Poste unveiled
its latest limited edition of “artistic”
stamps.
One of the most striking is a
€1.30 stamp celebrating the craft of
ceramics.
Renovation of the French postal
museum in Paris is almost complete.
The building has been shut since
2015 after work to make it more
accessible turned into a major
structural renovation.
The building at 34 Boulevard de
Vaugirard, opened in 1973, was one of
the off-tourist trail gems of Paris.

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