THE TEMPORARY VEGETARIAN

By ELAINE LOUIE

Published: December 30, 2009

ON a bone-chilling winter day, Michael Psilakis can make a dish of braised mushrooms, pearl onions and tiny green peas taste startlingly fresh.

''If you want to bring spring into winter, add fresh herbs and acidity,'' said Mr. Psilakis, the executive chef and a partner in Anthos, Gus & Gabriel, and Kefi in Manhattan, and the executive chef at Eos in Miami.

Moments before serving the dish, he throws in a handful of minced fresh mint, dill and scallions, and as the final embellishment, a squeeze of lemon juice. ''The lemon juice and herbs brighten the dish,'' he said.

''Acid is not an ingredient. It's a seasoning, like salt and pepper.''

Mr. Psilakis, 41, was born in Queens and grew up in East Northport, on Long Island. His father, Gus, worked as a furrier in Manhattan, and each night around 8:30, his mother, Georgia, had dinner ready just as her husband walked through the door.

''Food was the vehicle she used to bring us together,'' Mr. Psilakis said. ''The women were the last to sit down at the dinner table, and they sat closest to the kitchen.''

It was his mother, now 65, who taught him this dish. If extra guests show up for dinner, Mr. Psilakis suggests stretching the meal by cooking some orzo, the rice-shaped pasta, seasoning it with a little salt and pepper, and mixing it with the peas and mushrooms.

Recipe: BABY PEAS AND MUSHROOMS WITH MINT Adapted from ''How to Roast a Lamb: New Greek Classic Cooking,'' by Michael Psilakis Time: 30 to 40 minutes

Adapted from ''How to Roast a Lamb: New Greek Classic Cooking,'' by Michael Psilakis

Time: 30 to 40 minutes

8 ounces small button mushrooms

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, more for drizzling

1 large shallot, chopped

8 ounces whole pearl onions, peeled, or thawed frozen pearl onions

1/2 cup white wine

1 large sprig thyme

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

20 leaves fresh mint, minced

1/4 cup small sprigs dill

2 scallions, thinly sliced

10 ounces frozen baby peas

Juice of 1 lemon.

1. Rinse mushrooms in a bowl of cold water, drain and spread on a towel until dry. If they are larger than bite size, halve or quarter them. In a braising pan or large, heavy skillet over medium heat, warm olive oil. Add shallot and saut?ntil just softened, then add mushrooms and cook until slightly golden, shaking pan, about 5 to 7 minutes.

2. Add pearl onions and cook for a minute, then deglaze pan with white wine. Add 2 cups water (one cup if using frozen onions) and the thyme, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover pan and simmer gently over low heat until onions are soft, 10 to 20 minutes if using fresh, 5 to 10 minutes if using frozen. Check occasionally and add a little water if needed. Season with kosher salt and pepper.

3. When sauce has almost completely reduced, add mint, dill and scallions and stir for 30 seconds. Add peas and stir for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until peas are bright green and warmed through. Drizzle liberally with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and squeeze lemon juice over top. Toss again and serve.