What size bore brush do I need for turk?

I've been shooting and cleaning the turk, but sometimes the shells seem hard to come out after firing - got some kroil to use and wanted to use a brass brush I think. I use the 8mm for the barrel, but what size should I used to work on the bore - part where the shell sits. Heard JB paste is good, but cann't find any.
Thanks for your in put.

i use a 38-9mm chamber brush from cheaper than dirt (1.97,part nmbr 1750),as far as the j-b bore paste,try brownells.com(hint:spring for the catalog,it's the best 5.00 investment any shooter can make,you'll spend hours looking at all the goodies!).

Hans,
Tell my how you do it, my is just brute strength and awakardness as my dad used to say. Smack it up and smack it back. Got to be a better way. Talked to a gun smith, said I was probably wasting my time and that it probably needed polished - cost $30.00, hope I can do something cheaper than that.

Originally posted by JDW Hans,
Tell my how you do it, my is just brute strength and awakardness as my dad used to say. Smack it up and smack it back. Got to be a better way. Talked to a gun smith, said I was probably wasting my time and that it probably needed polished - cost $30.00, hope I can do something cheaper than that.

Click to expand...

To polish the chamber , put some VERY FINE steel wool on a wooden dowell rod . Spin , carefully , with an electric drill . Use oil on the steel wool . Clean very well .

I do not know this for sure , but I bet some tooth paste on cotton or cloth would give a very fine polish . If you do this , clean well dith water and patches , then dry very well . then please let us know how the tooth paste works .

After the shot has been made, take your finger off the trigger, then lift your hand up until it's resting between the bolt handle and the stock, with your hand and fingers out like you're about to shake someone's hand, fingers pointing toward the target. Your thumb should be pointing straight up, positioned just behind the bolt handle.

Take your thumb and hook it over the wing safety as leverage.
"Swing" your entire hand up as if you're going to look at the time on a watch, using your hooked thumb as a pivot...let your forearm and elbow pivot as well for extra leverage. Let the bolt swing all the way until it unlocks and re-cocks.

Now grab the bolt knob and pull back, then reload as normal.
This technique allows you to keep the gun close to your shoulder in its original firing position, whether prone, standing, or sitting. It generally works best from standing and sitting positions.

This technique also lets you use almost all of the muscles in your arm and shoulder to release that tight bolt...I hope this wasn't too confusing...I learned this one from a Viet-Nam veteran...he is one bad motor scooter.

I use water and ammonia to clean out the chamber and the bore. It neutralizes the corrosivness of the ammo and it cleans out all the crap that is built up. Ialso use an 8mm boresnake soaked with cleanzoil.

I misspelled it. The stuff is called Clenzoil. It cleans, lubricates, and prevents fust from forming. I will use ammonia and water in the chamber and bore to get rid of all the corrosive material. Then I use an 8mm bore brush first to loosen up all that crap in the bore. Then I run a boresnake thru soaked in #9. It will come out black, but these are reuseable because they can be washed. I then will use another boresnake with a little Clenzoil on it to lubricate the chamber and barrel. You cannot beat a boresnake over patches. Go to www.clenzoil.com to get more info on the product.