Year of beer: Craft craze means more options in 2016

Before the recent craft beer renaissance, there weren't a lot of options for Tallahassee consumers looking for something other than a skunked lager. A small band of beer lovers desired more from their malted beverage than mundane, mass-produced, watery suds. They demanded dynamic flavors.

Sadly, they couldn't find bold beers in local liquor or grocery stores. When connoisseurs wanted a stout with rich, chocolate flavor or full-bodied IPA, they had to find a bar. Most local bars seemed unwilling to sell craft brews.

There was a lone lighthouse in the sea of swill.

Deep Brewing Company(Photo: special to the Democrat)

Leon Pub, an unassuming, dimly-lit and smoky bar with an international selection of bottles and taps, was the choice for those with different tastes. It's a small place with a parking lot that barely holds five cars. In spite of the bar's unpretentious appearance, its beer selection was elite. For more than a decade, people drove from throughout the Big Bend to get to the Midtown location.

"It was where you went for a good beer," said Robert Galloway, a local beer enthusiast. "I had friends driving from as far north as Georgia and from darn near Panama City to drink good beer on tap. If you didn't go to Leon, you were drinking PBR (Pabst Blue Ribbon)."

Some daring souls took matters into their own hands. They brewed their own beer. Those intrepid home-brewers frequented places like HomeBrew Den for their supplies and fellowship. Local enthusiasts Sarah Bridegroom and John Larsen started the haven for brewers back in 1993.

"People wanted to have beer at home that they couldn't get in stores," Bridegroom said. “It started as a hobby and for a select few, it's become a big business."

Larsen decided to get in on the production end of the business. In 2012, he joined with Momo's Pizza to create a brewpub. It allowed Larsen to push the limits of beer. He would brew Irish reds, porters and India pale ales. Each beer would have a special touch. The recipes have to be well-executed or Bridgegroom, a master ranked certified beer judge, wouldn't allow them to be produced.

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Jonathan Pacha walks past large fermenters inside the Proof Brewing Co. on Friday just before the grand opening and celebration.Proof is Tallahassee's first production brewer and is located in the Railroad Square Art Park.<br />
(Photo: Mike Ewen/Democrat)

The master rank is the highest and most difficult to achieve in the Beer Judge Certification Program - an organization that evaluates beer quality. Approximately 1 percent of the more than 9,000 certified beer judges internationally hold the master rank.

"It's great to see Tallahassee becoming a craft beer town," Larsen said. "I'm glad we have a hand in the growth."

Times have changed since Larsen started brewing at Momo's. Bars like Andrew's, Growler Country, The Brass Tap, Madison Social and Fermentation Lounge have also become destinations for craft beer fans.

These days, craft beer is more than a hobby. It has become an economic driver.

Show me the money

According to the Brewers Association, in 2014, craft brewers produced 22.2 million barrels in America. They saw an 18 percent rise in volume and a 22 percent increase in retail dollar value — estimated at $19.6 billion, representing 19.3 percent market share. Craft beer represents 11 percent of all beer produced in America. In 2014, Florida craft breweries employed 16,686 people, with an economic impact of more than $2 billion.

One of the inspired home brewers was Gabe Grass. In 2008, he bought his first brew kit from Larsen and Bridegroom. In that moment, a love affair with beer was born. After years of study and trials, he decided to quit his job as grant writer at Florida State University and open Grasslands Brewing on Gaines Street.

Grasslands Brewing(Photo: special to the Democrat)

"Becoming a brewer is the new American dream," Grass said. "Most of us start the same way. First you find a good product, then you brand it and sell it. We're able to make a living from our passion and help others."

Grasslands began commercial brewing in July and operates a small system that makes just enough beer for its taproom. That will change by the end of January as the brewery will install a 15-barrel, production-sized brewing system. Once the system is running, Grass plans to begin selling growlers and kegs. His beer will also be available on tap at local bars.

"We want to grow the right way," Grass said. "I want to make sure we're making a good and consistent product. We want to make a living, but it's not about the money as much as it making good beer."

Proof of Concept

The path for Grasslands is made easier by the outstanding growth of Proof since it started brewing in 2014. If Bridegroom and Larsen are the godparents to Tallahassee's craft beer scene, Proof's founder Bryon Burroughs is the Michael Corleone (minus the criminal enterprise).

Crowlers from Proof Brewing(Photo: special to the Democrat)

His bar and bottle shop opened eight years ago and joined Fermentation Lounge, Leon Pub and Momo's as places to get unique beer. Not only is he a brewer, but Burroughs also advocates on behalf of the state's other brewers.

"I want Tallahassee to become a great beer town and great beer producing town," said Burroughs, who is vice president of the Florida Brewers Guild and visits the Capitol to lobby on behalf of his fellow brewers. "I want this city to become a beer destination town."

The more Burroughs drank craft beer, the more he became inspired to brew his own. Proof's development and launch required an investment of about $1.5 million. The 10,000-square-foot plant at 644 McDonnell Drive has a 20-barrel system. Proof's beer is available as far away as Miami. The brewery's main market stretches from the Panhandle to Jacksonville. By the end of February, Burroughs expects his beer to be selling on tap in Orlando bars.

Proof is looking to be the first Tallahassee brewery to package beer by the middle of 2016. One of the first beers Burroughs wants to can is the Mango Wit, a full bodied, creamy Belgian Wit brewed with ripe organic mangoes. Fresh fruit adds tropical flavor, revitalizing aroma and drinks easy.

"We want our cans all over the place," Burroughs said. "We want to be known as one of the best, if not the best brewery in the Southeast. In order to be recognized as such, we have to be available and consistent."

A member of the Lake Tribe

If Proof is to become the king of Southern beers, it'll have to best breweries like SweetWater Brewing of Atlanta. It was at the taproom of SweetWater where brothers and Tallahassee natives, Jesse and Jason Ross, launched the idea for Lake Tribe Brewing. They named the brewery after the YMCA Indian Guide tribe they participated in with their father Connor, who is also a partner.

"It's so fun to do this with my family," said Jason, the older brother. "We were sitting at SweetWater, enjoying the energy and decided we wanted something like this for our friends. We wanted to be the cool place for people to hang out, drink and laugh."

The beers are named after family members and friends. Jesse still works full time as an engineer with the facilities department at FSU. He's the head brewer; Jason handles marketing and social media. Their dad is a local builder. He helped his sons navigate the zoning regulations to open a brewery.

Lake Tribe is available on tap throughout Tallahassee. The Red Cloud IPA has become a favorite of local drinkers and can be purchased at the Donald L. Tucker Civic Center. Red Cloud IPA is a very "hop forward" IPA with lots of pine and earthiness. When the beer warms up a bit, some citrus notes come out of hiding. The malt bill has just enough caramel malt to give it a signature red hue; a dash of rye adds a subtle spiciness to play off the hops.

"It is red and cloudy like a good IPA," Jesse said. "I wanted to call it Red Cloud and it's taken off. It still makes me smile to see my beer on tap. It has to feel like a musician hearing his song on the radio for the first time."

Unlike Proof, Lake Tribe wants to stay local.

"We want to be the top beer in Tallahassee," Jason said. "If we can do that, we're good. We want people to come down here to get our beer, go to the other breweries and find us at the local bars."

Going Deep

Ryan LaPete had an epiphany on March 22, 2013. He remembers the date well because he was leagues underwater. LaPete is a commercial and scientific diver by trade. He grew tired of the 90-day assignments in the underwater barrier reefs. He wanted to make his hobby of brewing into his profession. So he created Deep Brewing, which is a tribute to his days as a diver.

Deep Brewing.(Photo: special to the Democrat)

"I'm at my best drinking, brewing and talking about beer," LaPete said with a grin. "I love the work that goes into making a great beer. I'm still using all my skills, just in a different way."

For most people, starting a business would take them away from their family. But for LaPete, it brought him closer.

“My wife is glad to have me home, so she's supportive of my dream," he said. "She's into beer too, so she makes sure everything is good and will tell me when it isn't."

LaPete plans to brew commercially by April. Once he's granted the appropriate licenses and permits, he plans to open the taproom about three weeks afterward. LaPete wants to be on tap for growlers and in bars by early summer.

"I'm ready to brew today," he said. "As soon as the permits come through, we will have the hops, grain and malt ready to go in the brew kettle."

A journey to Canopy Roads

Ben Ralys, George Henning, and Phil Homann have pushed their Canopy Roads Brewing brand by exhibiting at craft beer events throughout the region. Fans smile when they see the distinctive hats. They know beers, such as the Pigash porter, are nearby.

Lake Tribe Brewing(Photo: special to the Democrat)

Pigash has cocoa powder and cocoa nibs blended with coffee beans to give this porter a smooth taste to assuage the rough edges. This is a dark brown colored beer and smells like a candy bar. It has a 6.3 percent ABV and has become a trademark of the brewery. But they can't sell the brew and can only make limited quantities until they secure a license to become a commercial brewery.

"We are in pre-lease negotiations right now. If everything falls into place, we could be open as a craft beer bar as soon as April," Henning said. "Our intent is to basically mimic GrassLands. Open as a craft beer bar to generate interest, awareness and revenue while we wait on our federal permit to come in."

Once the permits are acquired, Canopy Roads will brew on a 2.5-barrel pilot system, then later on a 15-barrel system. According to Henning, the brewery should be fully operational by the summer.

You’re in Growler Country

If everything goes as planned, by the end of September, there will be five Tallahassee breweries distributing beer. This would make Bobby Carbonelle a happy man as he would love to have his taps filled with local beer. Carbonelle is one of the owners of Growler Country and a supporter of Tallahassee's craft beer scene.

His Capital Circle location has 32 taps and sells 32- and 64-ounce growlers. He recently opened a second outpost at the New Leaf Apalachee Parkway store. The self-contained unit, located across from the refrigerated beer cooler, will provide growlers of Florida craft beer as well as cold brewed coffee from locally owned Lucky Goat Coffee Co.

"Tallahassee has come a long way in such a short time," Carbonelle said. "I'm so excited to see what's next."

Contact Nubyjas Wilborn at nwilborn@tallahassee.com or follow him on Twitter @nwilborn19