Today I pulled the bolt out with my hand. I removed it so no one would haphazardly clip it. Once replaced, a 60 meter rope barely makes it back to anchors. From there down climb the second pitch. A final rappel just makes it to the ground at the highest point - tie knots!

Comments: I left two quickdraws at the top of this route on the chains last week. If someone picks them up I would love to get them back. I forgot them because my partner fell and got hurt. Thanks, returning gear is good karma!

Comments: I left two quickdraws at the top of this route on the chains last week. If someone picks them up I would love to get them back. I forgot them because my partner fell and got hurt. Thanks, returning gear is good karma!

Comments: Has anyone climbed the route under the giant roof between Dike Wall and West Butress? The one route that goes under the roof is called "Bad Girls Dream" and according to the new guide book, it's a 10a. It's the only 5.10 in the canyon I have not been able to climb. (Had to downclimb it, not easy in a horizontal roof.) Does anyone know if the 10a rating in the new GB is an error, or have any general info about this line?

Comments: Did this route today, lots of fun. The new BC guidebook, and this page for that matter, say you need a 70 meter rope and 14 draws. Neither are true. Once you are on the upper ledge, climb another 10 feet to belay at the base of the climb (great belay seat). You can easily skip the first bolt, then it's only 11 draws to second set of anchors which are about 90 feet from the ground. Highly recommended, needs more traffic to help it finish cleaning up a bit.

Comments: I did this route over the weekend. Look out for the number of wasps on the left face right before you exit the crux up high. I thought I was going to get stung for sure, but got lucky and hurried through. As far a PG13 rating, the face moves do protect well to the right. I slotted a 00 C3 and a #2 nut right next to each other, both very solid. After the face moves its easy climbing to a fixed pin.

Comments: I had a lot of fun on this route last week. Although the 5.11 rating is too high I think. I am just under 6 feet and had no problems reaching the good holds. Superb feet everywhere. Fun climb, 5.10+.