The time has come for me to put together a comprehensive Oaxaca food guide of all the best restaurants in Oaxaca, a place that has pulled me into its orbit again and again.

I’ve spent many collective months visiting this city over the last few years and am now here full time - so I've been able to experience living in different neighborhoods as well as villages outside the city, eating on the street, in traditional comedors, and in trendy restaurants.

A couple of years ago, after my first visit to the city, I wrote a blog post - 11 Must Eats in Oaxaca. I've just majorly updated it, so that post is relevant - but it focuses on 11 must eat Oaxacan dishes and where to find them. But after many more months and many more restaurants, markets, and food stands, I wanted to write something much more comprehensive - an ultimate Oaxaca food guide.

So this aims to be a complete list of my favorites, broken down by category. I’ve included bakeries, street food, market eats, traditional restaurants, mid-range cute spots, upscale restaurants, coffee shops, and where to drink cocktails, mezcal, artisanal beer, and coffee in this Oaxaca food guide.

It’s looking like I will be spending much, much more time in this delicious city, so I’ll continue to keep this updated as I try new places or restaurants close and open. I want to keep this Oaxaca food guide current and relevant for the best restaurants in Oaxaca. Of course I’m one person who hasn’t been everywhere, but I’ve been many places, developed a long list of favorites, and will continue trying new places in the years ahead.

Happy eating! You picked one of the best places in the world for it. 🙂

For tons more Oaxaca posts including: where to eat, where to stay, what to do,

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Bakeries: Best Restaurants in Oaxaca

If you’ve done any Googling about best restaurants in Oaxaca, you’ve most likely already come across this local institution in a Oaxaca food guide. The Mexican owner perfected his European style bread and baked goods before opening Boulenc in 2014. Their emphasis is on locally sourced and healthy ingredients.

Grab some fresh baguettes and croissants from the bakery, or head next door to the restaurant and sit down for some tasty food. This isn’t a place for traditional Oaxaca food, but fresh, well prepared and delicious dishes that often have a traditional influence.

Their space is lovely - very shabby chic. They also sell jams, and other locally made artisan food goods in the bakery.

This is one of my favorite bakeries in the world. This tiny spot is located in the centro, but away from the hustle and bustle in the Northwest corner. This is also a European style bakery. My favorite things here are the focaccia (omg), the fresh english muffins, and the whole wheat loaves.

Besides that, they have an absolutely excellent homemade granola. They also often sell coffee by the kilo here.

Street Food: Oaxaca Food Guide

Las Tlayudas de Mina y Bustamante: Best Restaurants in Oaxaca

I don’t think anyone actually calls this tlayuda stand by the above name, but that’s its location - at the NW corner of Mina y Bustamante, just a block from 20 de Noviembre Market.

These tlayudas are super legit and one of my favorites in the city. Order one and have a seat at the tiny cart counter (if you can find a spot) or a plastic stool nearby. Be sure to order some “chocolate” (chocolate atole), too - it’s delicious.

This one isn’t a secret, you can find it here and there in lists of the best restaurants in Oaxaca, but it’s absolutely delicious and a classic so I had to include it in my Oaxaca food guide. They make perfectly grilled tlayudas on the grill outside and have some seating inside off the street. This spot is also open super late, so if you need a snack after a few mezcals, this is a solid solution.

Speaking of late night delicious food, Lechoncito de Oro has some of my absolute favorite tacos in Oaxaca. They make only two types of tacos: pierna (pork leg) and chicharron (pork skin). Both are incredibly delicious. Definitely try both.

They also have another location east of the centro - I haven’t been there, but am sure it’s delicious as well.

This is an absolute must in my Oaxaca food guide for tacos.

Lechoncito de Oro

Calle de los Libres y Murguia

Esquites Stand in El Llano: Best Restaurants in Oaxaca

Esquites are boiled corn served in a cup. Add crema, mayo, chile pepper, salt, lime - and presto, you have a tasty snack. It’s much more delicious than it sounds, and a very popular Mexican evening snack.

There are many esquites vendors in the Zocalo, and on random street corners. Many are good, but the best, in my opinion is in El Llano park. You will be able to tell because they always have quite a long queue.

Check the map above for the approximate location. Generally opens after dark.

Esquites Stand in El Llano

Ave Benito Juarez close to intersection with Humboldt

Market Food: Best Restaurants in Oaxaca

I loooove visiting markets when I travel, and the ones in Oaxaca are some of my absolute favorites, jam packed with delicious food.

I wrote an extensive blog post already about what to eat in Oaxaca markets: Mercado Benito Juarez & 20 de Noviembre - highlights include tlayudas at Marie Alejandra’s and the tastiest grilled meats ever in the Carne Asada hall. Full details in the post including where to get tamales, chapulines, drink tejate, and more.

Traditional Casual Restaurants: Oaxaca Food Guide

Biche Pobre is one of the first restaurants I tried in the city, and in my opinion still one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca. It’s a traditional local spot, filled with families having a big shared lunch. It’s no frills, but still very comfortable and a great place for taking in the local culture.I love the mole negro here (which is a dish you really have to try when coming to Oaxaca). They also have great tamales and chiles rellenos.

Tacos Roy is another classic in my Oaxaca food guide. It’s a small local chain that has several locations in the city. The tacos here are tasty, but my favorite thing to order here is pozole. What’s pozole? A suuuper delicious traditional soup that includes hominy, your choice of meat, and is often topped with cabbage, crema, onion, radishes, and other tasty toppings. If you’re wondering why you would eat soup on a hot day, just do it anyway - it’s delicious.If you are looking for one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca to try pozole, Tacos Roy is a great choice. My other favorite pozole spot below...

Xuncu Choco is unique in this Oaxaca food guide because the cuisine is mainly from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in Oaxaca state. This area is quite far from Oaxaca city, and very different geographically - instead of being in the subtropical temperate mountains, it’s hot and tropical lowlands.

The region’s cuisine has some similarities with the typical cuisine in the Valles Centrales, but includes ingredients indigenous to the tropical lowlands, seafood, and flavors that are just a bit distinct. One of the dishes I tried at Xuncu Choco included a sauce that was both sweet and savory - and super delicious.

Definitely one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca to try casual Tehuantepec cuisine.

This is my favorite Oaxaca restaurant for pozole I always order the green pozole at this popular local spot. Pozole verde isn't very common in Oaxaca (it comes from the neighboring state of Guerrero), so it feels like a treat to have it here. It also comes with chicharron and avocado - yum.

This restaurant is on a popular corner for my Oaxaca food guide - right across the street from Boulenc, and around the corner from two of my favorite mezcalerias - In Situ and Archivo Maguey. You can easily make a whole night hopping from one spot to the next.

La Gran Torta

Porfirio Diaz No. 208

Tlayudas Las Animas: Oaxaca Food Guide

This tlayuda spot is only open 3 nights a week - Thursday, Friday and Saturday for dinner. It's very simple - walk in the hallway passing the tlayuda grill and have a seat in the open courtyard.

The tlayudas here are absolutely delicious - perfectly grilled, crispy and smoky. They also have a tlayuda enmolada - or a tlayuda with mole sauce instead of the normal aciento. The tlayudas are on the smaller size (or rather, they are about the appropriate size to eat in one sitting. but you will find them much larger just about everywhere else).

Since this is open late on weekends, it's a good Oaxaca food guide choice for before or after some mezcals.

Mid-range Restaurants: Best Restaurants in Oaxaca

Curious which restaurant is my absolute favorite on this Oaxaca food guide list? Well ya found it.

Cabuche has it all: a lovely, simple atmosphere, great staff, and totally delicious food. Everything I’ve had here has been superb - and I’ve been here many times.

The standouts here are their pozole (super super good), cochinita pibil tacos, and the enmoladas. Be sure to also order their agua of the day (flavored water) or maybe an artisanal beer or house-made pulque.

Cabuche is open for breakfast, lunch or dinner, so is perfect for anytime of day. This is a can't miss on my Oaxaca food guide!

I mentioned Boulenc earlier in the bakery section, but they have an adjoining dining room for eating in as well. It’s a cute spot with rustic decor, and an indoor/outdoor space.Their sandwiches, salads and pizzas are all delicious. The pizzas are made in a wood-fired oven in the corner and are very legit.

It’s a cool spot, and they also occasionally have live music or popups. Check their Facebook page for current events.

Itanoni has gained a little online buzz as well, and for good reason. This restaurant’s claim to fame is the heirloom corn varieties they use to make each and every dish in the house. From the freshly made tortillas, to the tamales, to the traditional drinks made from corn, to the corn cake for dessert.

Technically this Oaxaca food guide restaurant is outside of the centro (so maybe should be in that section below), but it's really only a few blocks from the Centro in a neighborhood called Reforma. Plus it's a must visit, in my opinion.

The menu here is huge, but here are my favorite things to order at Itanoni, one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca:

Tascalate - this is a beverage (pictured above) and is my favorite thing at Itanoni. It’s a traditional non alcoholic drink made from toasted maize, chocolate, ground pine nuts, achiote, sugar and vanilla. It’s amazing - trust me. If you’re in a group - order the jarra (pitcher) to share.

De ese - this unusual snack is a tortilla stuffed with a hoja santa leaf (adding an anise/peppery flavor) and whatever other ingredient you choose.

Pan de elote - for dessert, the subtly sweet corn cake is perfect. If you still have any room.

Itanoni is definitely one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca to indulge in all things corn. It also has a cute casual atmosphere open to the street and colorful streamers strung up and down the side dining room.

La Popular a very simple and small dining room that always feels lively (mostly because it’s, well, very popular!), and also doubles as an art gallery. The food is good, the atmosphere is great, and it’s very centrally located just one block from Santa Domingo.

I like to order the tacos de cochinita pibil or the quesadillas de huitlacoche.

Cactus Loncheria is a cute little cafe on the east side of the centro. They mainly serve sandwiches, toasts, tostadas, freshly made juices and coffee. They have a large communal table, lots of leafy greens, cute decor, and great service.

Ever since I finally tried this adorable restaurant tucked in the quiet neighborhood of Xochimilco, it's become one of my favorite breakfast spots. The large leafy green courtyard has spread out tables and the decor is simple but cute. The dishes are beautifully plated and just as tasty. It's definitely worth the extra couple minute walk from centro.

This rooftop taqueria and cocktail/mezcal bar is above El Destilado (see upscale restaurants below). This is the more casual spot to hang out for awhile, drink, snack, chat, and enjoy the view of Santo Domingo. The cocktails here are excellent and the tacos are tasty. Open evenings Thursday-Sunday.

This lovely restaurant straddles the line between mid-range and upscale, but keeps a casual atmosphere. Their roof has amazing views and is a comfy place to hang out. The food is very good, fresh, and well prepared.

Teocintle also is somewhere between mid-range and upscale. They serve a set menu del dia, but the goal is a modern and innovative interpretation. The space is lovely, you walk through a large building near the zocalo and wind up to the top floor. There is a nice view and lovely decor. They just moved into a new location, and during my last visit the price was 250 pesos for a 6 course menu del dia/tasting menu. Upscale for a menu del dia, but very reasonable for a tasting menu. The food was fresh and interesting.

Los Danzantes is a classic Oaxaca restaurant that serves excellent traditional food. You’ll certainly find them on most best restaurants in Oaxaca lists, and for good reason - they do traditional food well.

Their outdoor terrace is lovely and chic, perfect for a romantic dinner.

Criollo is a word used in Mexico to denote that some food ingredient is indigenous to the area and an heirloom variety. This name seems to reflect the restaurant’s connection to Oaxaca’s traditional cuisine. It's also one of my favorite restaurants in Oaxaca.

The restaurant was created by 3 partners, one of which is chef, Enrique Olvera, of Pujol fame. That should be enough to convince you to head to Criollo asap.

The location is tucked away at the edge of the centro, but finding it is well worth the work - it’s a gorgeous space with a lovely courtyard. And the food is wonderful - inventive and still respectful to its Oaxacan roots.

I had the pleasure of dining here when it was still in its soft opening and then again recently for the tasting menu. Everything was incredibly delicious, interesting, and beautifully plated. I would definitely say it’s one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca for upscale dining. Reservations required.

I don't know if "upscale" is the right category for Tastavins in this Oaxaca food guide because the prices are actually great for what it is, but it's a cute place that is great for a nice dinner or date. Their specialties are Spanish tapas and wine. Finding wine in Oaxaca is not the easiest, so I love that they have a big wine list to choose from. There prices are excellent - for the tasty food and for the wine. I recommend a pasta dish and tasting some of the Mexican wine from Baja California.

La Biznaga is a well-decorated restaurant with a pleasant courtyard, great service, and tasty food. They have some really great mezcal here and the food is fresh and well prepared.

La Biznaga

Garcia Vigil 512

Outside of Oaxaca Centro: Best Restaurants in Oaxaca

Chances are you will be spending most of your visit in the centro, where most of the tourist attractions, hotels and tourist amenities are. But if you find yourself venturing out, have a rental car, or are just curious about typical Oaxacan life, check out some of the great Oaxaca food guide choices outside of the tourist zone.

Tlayudas Doña Flavia is one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca (in my opinion) and also one of the best places to eat tlayudas in Oaxaca.

Tlayudas are giant round tortillas topped with asiento, quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese), and often cabbage, tomato, and avocado, then grilled to perfection. They are sometimes served open faced (like a pizza), or folded.

One of the tastiest tlayudas in Oaxaca is at Doña Flavia’s - an unassuming local spot on the highway heading out east towards Tlacolula.

Luz de Luna is one of my favorite restaurants in this Oaxaca food guide, but a big reason for that is that I’ve spent many months living in San Andres Huayapam, the little village outside of Oaxaca city where this restaurant is located.

But this restaurant is also super delicious. Everything I’ve had here is wonderful - from the tlayudas, to the pozole, to the freshly made aguas del dia.

It’s also an adorable restaurant. Very cutely decorated, without being over the top. The staff is warm and friendly, and the restaurant can get quite busy on weekends when city-dwellers come out to Huayapam for a visit.

This is another spot that might not make your itinerary if you just have a couple days in the centro. But if you plan to do any exploring of the Sierra Norte, you might want to make a stop at Luz de Luna for a tasty meal on your way back to the city.

Consejo Cervecero is a brewery and a pub. It might seem like an odd choice on a Oaxaca food guide since it doesn't serve traditional Oaxacan food, but it’s a great place to experience modern Oaxacan beer and bites.

Consejo Cervecero brews the most famous local artisanal beer. You’ll see their two most popular varieties all around town - Boy Stout and Rey oh Baby (2 amazingly cute names).

They also serve typical bar food, but their burgers are super super delicious.

If you’re looking to see what locals eat when they aren’t having tlayudas or mole or to see where young people are hanging out, Consejo Cervecero is a great place to try out! And since it’s in Reforma, it’s not too far from the Centro.

Consejo Cervecero

Av Belisario Dominguez

Where to Drink Mezcal: Oaxaca Food Guide

I’ve written an extensive post with my favorite places to drink the best mezcal in Oaxaca: 8 awesome mezcalerias. Head there to the full details! And if you're interested in learning lots more about mezcal, consider taking a Oaxaca mezcal tour to some of the best and most traditional distilleries. Or peek below for where to drink cocktails, artisanal beer, or coffee in this Oaxaca food guide.

Where to Drink Cocktails: Best Restaurants in Oaxaca

Casa Estambul is one of the cutest and loveliest places to hang out on a lazy afternoon. The space is beautiful and cool. Lots of murals line the wall, the floors are covered in pretty tile, and the middle courtyard is giant and lovely.

Their cocktails are delicious and carefully crafted, and the space can’t be beat.

Where to Drink Artisanal Beer: Best Restaurants in Oaxaca

La Mezcalerita is one of my favorite bars in Oaxaca so it definitely needs a spot in this Oaxaca food guide. There are a couple bars in small rooms in front, a small courtyard inside, and a large roof terrace.

The amazing thing about La Mezcalerita is the sheer size of their artisanal beer and mezcal menu (they also earned a spot in my best mezcalerias in Oaxaca blog post). And not only are there a lot to choose from, but all are from Mexico - divided out in the menu by regions of the country. I couldn’t begin to guess how many there are to choose from, but it’s fun to try new varieties each time. They also serve pulque.

Santisima Flor de Lupulo is another of my favorite beer spots in this list of the best restaurants in Oaxaca. They brew their own beer here, and always have a few varieties on tap to try. The tiny bar only has a couple tables, but has a warm and friendly atmosphere.

This little brewery just opened up and I think it has some of the best artisanal beer in the city. Don't be fooled by the English name - the brewery is owned and run by 2 Oaxacan locals and the brewer is from Baja but lives here in Oaxaca now. They are super sweet and friendly people and the beer is delicious. Definitely a must stop on this Oaxaca food guide!

I mentioned Consejo Cervecero above in the "Outside of Oaxaca Centro: Best Restaurants in Oaxaca" section. Consejo Cervecero is the biggest artisanal brewery in Oaxaca, and for good reason - they make great beers.

Consejo Cervecero

Av Belisario Domínguez 405

Coffee Shops: Oaxaca Food Guide

It wouldn't be a complete Oaxaca food guide if I didn't include cafes that serve some of the delicious locally-grown Oaxacan coffee.

Cafeto y Baristas is one of my favorite coffee shops in Oaxaca. It’s a tiny room, but cutely decorated with little cacti and succulents, and kitschy wallpaper. The baristas know how to make a mean cup of coffee and they also have excellent cold brew. You can also buy beans to go.

Cafe Brujula is another very popular Oaxacan coffee shop. They have several locations - my favorite is the one near the Zocalo (address below). It’s a big space, and pleasant to spend time in for awhile. They have a large central courtyard lined with tables that is great for catching up with friends over coffee or working from your laptop.

I'm really excited about this coffee shop - they really know their stuff. Every time I visit, the baristas spend lots of time telling me all about the beans they have (usually 4 different varieties from Oaxacan growers in different regions of the state - they seem to know everything about the beans, from the farms' history to how long they have been growing the coffee). They'll also explain which bean is best brewed in which method (Chemex, Aeropress, V60, etc.). The coffee is well balanced and delicious. And the space is cute in a quieter residential part of the centro. You can also buy this delicious coffee by the bag. One of the best coffee shops on this Oaxaca food guide!

Cafebre is a great coffee shop super close to all the big sites in the centro. They make a great espresso and the staff is friendly. The space is a big open courtyard and is a lovely place to work or hang out for awhile.

This is a coffee shop that was recommended to me by my favorite tour guide, and I love it. They have a great cold brew and a cute little space. They are in the north of the centro, in a leafy residential area that is lovely to stroll through.

This Oaxaca coffee shop is located in the same pretty plaza as Nativo (the restaurant in the "Mid-range" section in the Oaxaca food guide above). They have a tiny but cute space with some fun art on the wall.

This coffee shop and bar is right next to the Textile Museum (a recommended stop). Duck into this cute space before or after the museum for an espresso or a mezcal.

Muss Cafe

Miguel Hidalgo 911

And there you have it! My Oaxaca food guide from my last few years spending many months (years?) in my favorite city in the world. I’ll continue to update this best restaurants in Oaxaca list, but please feel free to drop me a note below if you have something to add!

[…] dishes and where to find them. If you are looking for a more exhaustive, check out my complete Oaxaca food guide post that includes everything from bakeries, to street food, to upscale experiences, coffee shops, […]

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