I quess I should ask the question if this line folds back and forth like the SBB over the Gothard Pass?

Since the discussion also included your back yard, how many tulips do you have in the yard?I remember back in the 90s on a mission layover in the spring and driving through Holland and viewing the fields of tulips.

Thanks a lot.I realy enjoyed the video very much. I noticed the 4 car regional trains and the stations have sidings so the expresses can pass.Do you know if the fare is less on the regional trains compared to the expresses?

Hi Rinus. I've watched the first half of the video so far. Just great! I rode that railroute way back when I was still a teen in 1972 only in the other direction. I remember beingin a compartment coach and people were bi-lingual, speaking German to some and Italian to others.Looking forward to the rest! Cheers,Peter

Cork bedding is positioned and the opening between the helix and the upper module closed! The outer cork bedding is 5 mm high the inner one 4 mm. Cork beddings are from Jehewa, which delivers superbly finished products.

Soldering each individual rail power suply together. I don't want to have any problems later on after ballasting concerning bad power supply.

Finally positioning the track to the cork bedding. The hart tot hart distance between tracks is 57 mm. The inner curve is a K track 2274 the outer one flexrail.

And this is what is should be like in the future, the St Jodok bend in Austria!

I have just finished watching your video of the Brenner and thoroughly enjoyed it. It was interesting to see the succession of facing and trailing croossovers for bi-directional running.

I went over the Brenner many years ago though unfortunately by motor coach rather than train and Innsbruck remains one of my favourite cities. With trains, trams, light rail and beautiful scenery it just about has everything. A trip up to Igls through the pine woods, sitting on the back balcony of a tiny tram trailer was a journey to remember. There were also at the time of my visit a couple of nice model shops. I wonder if they are still there?

For anybody interested in that part of the world, I would recommend Ray Deacon's "Innsbruck's Alpine Tramways" and Martin Bairstow's "Railways in the Austrian Tyrol". The latter is probably getting a little bit dated now but it is still of interest.

@ Bob, I think you havbe more experience in austria than I have. I've never been in Tirol unfortunately myself . I wanted to go this year, but the house needs a new roof ... etc, etc ... But I'll certainly do some home work on your sugestions concerninig your literature sugestions!

I have been a customer of Fohrmann for many years, excellent service, friendly, easy, dependable!A place every model railroader should take the time to visit in details!Cheers

Gents- maybe I'm missing something here. Is that tool meant for curving the track somehow, or to hold two sections together in order to bend one long piece into the desired radius? Or something else?

Yes it is and designed for, in our case, the k-flexi track (900mm).

How to use it:

I've used a method of clamping the clamp between a fixed track and the flexi track and the reason for it is: the track joint between the 2 tracks will stay in its straight form and you will not find having a sudden kick in it.the flexi track also has one fixed side and one open side, so the open side should always be on the other end because this is the end (if curved) you will cut shorter).When you've set the radius you than can (I have 3 clamps) put one in the middle and one at the other end.

If you have a track plan underneath your tracks you can than follow exactly the curve according to your marked line.

I have been a customer of Fohrmann for many years, excellent service, friendly, easy, dependable!A place every model railroader should take the time to visit in details!Cheers

Gents- maybe I'm missing something here. Is that tool meant for curving the track somehow, or to hold two sections together in order to bend one long piece into the desired radius? Or something else?

Yes it is and designed for, in our case, the k-flexi track (900mm).

How to use it:

I've used a method of clamping the clamp between a fixed track and the flexi track and the reason for it is: the track joint between the 2 tracks will stay in its straight form and you will not find having a sudden kick in it.the flexi track also has one fixed side and one open side, so the open side should always be on the other end because this is the end (if curved) you will cut shorter).When you've set the radius you than can (I have 3 clamps) put one in the middle and one at the other end.

If you have a track plan underneath your tracks you can than follow exactly the curve according to your marked line.

regards.,

John

Thanks John! I was curious. I usually stagger my joints anyways for conductivity reasons (with DC track, never used Marklin K) and rely on that combined with a lot of headaches to keep my curve steady. Nice tool!

Testing is allways a bit dull. Unfortunatelly I ran into a bit of a problem!

The inner curve of the largest hellix is made out of flexrail 2205 to match the outer curve (radius 4 k 2241). At the joints of two flexrail I noticed that the connection is not very smooth. The curve tends to go over in a straight line for a few inches, which leads to a not very smooth connection with the next rail. Co' Co' locomotives derail on it. To make matters worse, the felxrail is glued in place with hot glue

I think there are 2 options:1. Remove the hotglue and re-position the flexrail and fasten it in the right place with srews.2. Remove the whole innercurve and rebuilt it with 2231 and 2201 pieces.

Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)Posts: 10,796Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square

Rinus,

You can purchase rail clamps, especially designed for exactly what you are trying to do or prevent it from. the clamp would secure enough width on either track to keep both of them tied together.

by placing the railclamp between 2 flexitracks stops it from forming a straight track, just make sure you 've got the open end at the right end.Hot glue is not a problem but you have to leave it until it's fully firm. by not using ballast I would recommend screwing them down.

Another thing I've noticed, your hot glue covers a wide range of sleepers, I used to put drops on both sides at intervals of a curved standard track. (.e.g. 2241).Although I'm using a hot glue gun, the glue sticks are not the average stick you buy in hardware stores it's a more commercial quality and product.

You can purchase rail clamps, especially designed for exactly what you are trying to do or prevent it from. the clamp would secure enough width on either track to keep both of them tied together.

by placing the railclamp between 2 flexitracks stops it from forming a straight track, just make sure you 've got the open end at the right end.Hot glue is not a problem but you have to leave it until it's fully firm. by not using ballast I would recommend screwing them down.

Another thing I've noticed, your hot glue covers a wide range of sleepers, I used to put drops on both sides at intervals of a curved standard track. (.e.g. 2241).Although I'm using a hot glue gun, the glue sticks are not the average stick you buy in hardware stores it's a more commercial quality and product.

regards.,

John

Hi John,

Do you got an example or article numper for these clamps? If I think I know what you mean, then I'm almost sure I've used them. I must have aplied them incorrect then. The clams I use are shown somewhere above.

I fixed quit a number of the defects yesterday. I noticed that the glue under the cork bedding was faulty on a number of occaisions. It was pressed outwards entirely at the joints.

Regarding the hotglue. At a start I used too much glue. Way too much. The helix was one of my first projects using it. Now I use just three dots per rail.

Yesterday I solved most problems with the helix. One secti0n remains troublesome however. I'll replace the flextrack there with 2231 k rail. Unfortunatelly I had to order that item, so that will take some time.

This gave me some time to givre a little thoughts to the signalling. As it is a öbb track it wouldn't be realistic to use DB signals.

I've chosen to order some of Krois model. I read they were all metall. Also important is that they are from the present era. Which enables me to look at the prototype in order to get the right signals. Video's on youtube helped me alot t odetermin which signal is used.

Sorry to read about the problems you've been having with your track. Joining sections of flex track on curves is always problematic. I would always use sectional fixed curves for helixes and hidden reverse loops.

Ray

Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.

Sorry to read about the problems you've been having with your track. Joining sections of flex track on curves is always problematic. I would always use sectional fixed curves for helixes and hidden reverse loops.

yup, me too after this. I also think breaking it apart when moving houses, did not do the helix much good either. I'm glad helix # 2 isn't having the same problems. Maybe it would have been better to use c track there.

Can't wait to get these signals! Allthough it will be quite a job to put them in place nicely. The foot of the signal seems quite large an square.

Rinus

Hi Rinus!Great progress on teh layout.I like the way you run your trains at (scale) speed!Isn't that 39560 Croc the best ever? I do love it!!

For the Krois signals: as far as I understand they are designed so that you can either sink their base in the baseboard (after cutting a corresponding square opening) or simpler in my opinion , glue them, then ballast around.That will make them look like the real thing with a concrete base.Keep up with the good job...your project is ambitious, but you are taking your time...and you're right!Cheers

Jacques Vuye aka Dr.EisenbahnOnce a vandal, learning to be better and had great success!

Croc is great. It was the last gift from my grand-pa before he passed away some years ago. It reminds me of his stories about the Gotthard and other Swiss mountains. Allthough I'm concentrating on öbb I keep some of my beloved non-öbb modell of which I have dear memories.

I think I go for the option to sink the signals baseplate. On the video's I saw on youtube, the signals have no concrete footplate, so I can't make a compromise there

I got a message the signals were shipped today. Cant wait to get home. The order aslo included some lasercut scaled switch engines and km stones. I'm very interested to see how they look. Also there is a LS Model T2s sleeping coach included

As with the pace. Yess, its going slow. I have to devide my few free time between so many things, and when I get going I don't want to do things I later regret. If something is not 99% OK, I'll rework it untill it is. And above all, I like the slow pace, It's a nice diversion from my sometimes hectic working days. I think that sounds familiar to most of us. I hope to get ready with the rest of our house soon, which will give me some more time.

Their e-mail told me it was shipped one week ago. Still no sign of it to arrive however. No track and trace code too. Seems a bit strange.

I've send an e-mail last night to inform them.

I also ordered some Viessmann servo control units and servo's to operate the switches on the main level, together with some replacement marklin K2231's for the helix.

No sign of that shipment either. They are still awaiting to be delivered from the manufacturer.

I think that the main downside of low-price internetshops is their low inventory.

Rinus

Eventually all good things come to he who waits.

Nev

wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now have a new shiny tin Hip that is badly in Need of Repair Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around

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