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Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Sew-Along Prep: Gather Your Muslin Materials

We're going to start our coat muslins next week, so it's time to gather your supplies. Muslin-making can often seem tedious, but I hope it will be more fun as a group! Besides, muslins are invaluable. Along with helping you make fitting changes before cutting into your fabric, they give you an extra dose of confidence to start your coat with. And who couldn't use some added sewing confidence?

If you're new to making muslins, all you need to know is this: a muslin is a test version of your garment. You can make it in unbleached cotton (called muslin), but the best rule of thumb is to make it in a fabric of similar weight to your fashion fabric. Muslin generally comes in three weights: light, medium, and heavy. I'm pretty sure I'll be making my Lady Grey in this heavy tweed, so I'm going to opt for heavy tailor's weight muslin.

There's certainly no need for your muslin to be made of actual muslin, though. I've made muslins out of old curtains, and sheets from Goodwill are a reader favorite. Again, just make sure that your muslin fabric is of a similar weight to your fashion fabric. This will help you see how the coat will drape. As Sarai—the pattern's designer—pointed out, the peplum of this coat can look anywhere from subtle to very dramatic, depending on the weight of fabric you use.

Here's your supply list for your muslin:

Muslin (or equivalent) in same yardage required for shell of coat (Note: we won't actually be making all of the pattern pieces in the muslin stage—facings and pockets will be omitted—but it doesn't hurt to have a little extra.) You can buy muslin at any fabric store.

Thread in two different colors; make sure they both show up well on your muslin fabric. The first will be for thread-tracing your seamlines by machine, and the second is for actually assembling your muslin. This is a good opportunity to use up weird odds and ends of thread that you have lying about.

That's it! Interested in reading up on the muslin-making process before we start? Check out the muslin chapter in my preferred tailoring handbook, Tailoring: the Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket. I also highly recommend Susan Khalje's article "Muslin Refined" in the latest issue of Threads (on newsstands now).

P.S. The Sew-Along Flickr Pool is up! Make sure you join up. And hey, why not introduce yourself with a pic of your fabric choices?

31 comments:

I'm getting excited about this! I definitely have to stop at the store this week and pick up some muslin; although I'm still waiting for my gabardine to arrive (darn, holiday weekend ;) rofl.). I agree that it is really important to stress that your muslin fabric is similar in weight/drape to the fashion fabric you plan on using for the final. One of the mistakes one can make is using something that is either softer or crisper than the fashion fabric, which can result in some fitting errors. Best to play it safe and go with something similar to avoid headaches down the road! ;)

I think I may have to join in later. I'm still waiting to get the pattern (that's totally my fault, I ordered it only last week). I'm also waiting for my fabric swatches, to see how heavy the fabric is (it is a wool coating) and chose a color.

I just bought a vintage tracing wheel. Whats it for? I bought it becasue it was a vintage sewing accessory still in the little box!! It even has a seam allowance guide, very high brow. So what do I do with it? :)

My local fabric shop is pretty limited in terms of muslins, so I was thinking I might do mine (not of Lady Grey, but of Simplicity 2812) in fairly cheap fleece. Is this a terrible idea? I'm tracing out the pattern this afternoon and may pop out for the fleece later. If not, it'll be tomorrow.

Also, for the photo group - does a flickr account mean you have to use yahoo mail? I don't want yet another email address and would prefer to use my google account if possible?

Hmn, I have a medium-to-heavy wool, and a bolt of lightweight muslin I got at Walmart.com last summer for $4 (for 25 yards! :faint:). I'll have to rummage through the stash to see if I have some heavier fabric for a coat muslin. I don't think using a double layer of the lightweight stuff would really cut it. Maybe there's some plain home dec stuff on Joann's cheap rack :-)

I am just waiting for the fabric to arrive. Won 10 m of navy wool on ebay.btw. Measurements for the patternsize, is that as normal. The measurement taken in underwear. Or should I take the measurements wearing the clothes I would wear under the coat? My first coat ever.Tania

ack! I haven't gotten my fabric delivered yet, so I don't know what the 'real' weight is like. I'll have to con someone into taking me to the store, too. Hm..unless someone wouldn't notice if I hijacked a heavier table cloth or two...Also, I've decided to use Pat's Custom Belts and Buttons to order my buttons from. I like that look, and am unskilled in button-making. I can't wait to see everyone's choices!

I just bought my fabric and lining today and I should have picked up some heavy muslin on my way ;)

I'm excited to see how the Lady Grey will look done in tweed and other different fabrics. I bet there's going to be a few of us who end up making a second Lady Grey in a different fabric right after this one!

Hi Gertie, what a coincidence, I just placed an order for the same tweed fabric last night. I've been searching for the heavy tailor's weight muslin that you mentioned and couldn't find any. Could you please link a good example of such muslin? what's the alternative? thanks. Also, on lining. According to the tailoring book, it is best to use rayon bamberg as opposed to silk because silk will wear out due to sweat. what's your take on that?

yikes! I'm still in california so I haven't gotten my fabric yet or anything - heck, I haven't even opened the pattern yet - it's in NY, waiting for me to come back!

As far as fabric, I was going to do a lightweight red wool, but then I've been thinking that I could use another raincoat....I'll probably end up going to mood and making a snap decision and paying way too much money :)

I'm picking up muslin today and crossing my fingers that I'll be selecting the correct weight. My wool is making it's way cross country and all I can figure is it's heavier than flannel but lighter weight than blanket weight melton...yikes! The wrong muslin could really through off my upper arm fitting and peplum so I'm winging this with a prayer! I may try some light weight corduroy from the sale table at Joanne's.

@ Sulovessew, I'm not Gertie but I've never had problems with using silk as a lining on outerwear. I've used it to line Victorian bodices and have gotten sweat damage on those, but never on something that didn't come into direct contact with skin.

I've ordered a midweight melton, which was described as lighter than the flannel coating available on Gorgeous Fabrics so I'm hoping it isn't too heavy. I don't have the pattern yet so I'm just spectating at this point.

Melissa, I generally do cut my patterns. (You can trace it onto pattern paper if you like, though.) The tracing wheel is for copying pattern marks onto the muslin.

I can't seem to find another online source for the wax tracing paper. Any dressmakers tracing paper is fine though. You can get the professional sort at any garment district notions shop like SIL Thread or Steinlauf and Stoller.

Also, don't fret too much about your muslin weight. Just don't use a super thin muslin in place of a super heavy fashion fabric.

Man, I was just at the fabric store yesterday! I was going to use an old sheet, but think that's not a good approximation of my wool twill. Given that I've already gone over budget on my actual fabrics, I'd love something very cheap!

What do you think about using a lightweight wool with a very thin windowpane plaid pattern? Would it look right with the curved seams? Or should I stick to a solid? Thanks for the advice. Wasn't going to make a muslin but I am so between 3 sizes that I think I should. Can't wait to get started. Julie