Hair trends: 1997

Summary: Hair stylists travel the country attending trade fairs to stay on top of trends

Anyone who looms over your head with scissors in hand gets your attention. But a hair stylist who combines the craft of cutting with the art of listening gets your return business. The Good Groomer Man (or woman) is one who keeps current on cuts, color and curl and gently leads the customer forward. We talked with several stylists on the cutting edge of the cutting edge. Most of them travel the country to attend trade shows and enter creative competitions to sharpen their skills. They offered the following advice on how to stay ahead of the crowd. -- Vivian McInerny

Evolution Hair Design

Mark Putnam,. co-owner

``We are really trying to mimic what natural hair does on its own, the little inconsistencies that make every curl different.

``To get that look you have to incorporate new tools and new techniques. Instead of perm rods, we use aluminum foil, rubber bands and the stuff you put under rugs so they don't slip. This technique is great for clients who don't want that `poodle' look perm.

``For people who want to wear their hair smooth one day and tousled the next, this is the new thing.

``It used to be that you couldn't combine color and perms at the same time. Now you can get great results that are shiny and look natural. The technology has improved 100 percent.''

Magnum Opus.

Les Madden,. co-owner with wife, Mary

``We are working with a French cutting technique. We stand people up and look at their bone structure and see how the hair falls on the face. The cuts we're doing have a solid base but are layered on top and look really fresh.

``While the classic English technique, like Sassoon, is architectural, this is more like painting a picture. It's softer.

``We are doing more coloring than ever before. For both men and women.

``It's not just the boomers covering gray, but the youth are doing it just for fun.''

Europa, Portland

Crae Hasler-Elliott,. stylist

``Layers used to be too Farrah Fawcett until Rachel from `Friends.' Her cut was the icebreaker. But it has served its purpose.

``Now there's a return to geometry. The outside perimeters of the hair are going to clean up and become more geometric.

``It's not exactly the China bob look. It's wider or fuller with a softness to it.

``We're working back into curl and wave, though not immediately. We'll start with fullness and go from there.

``Colorwise, multiple tones within the head give a lot of visual interest. It's not a big, stark chunk of color, but many colors.

``And the reds will probably move away from the orange and apricot to woody auburns.''

Salon Essex, Portland

Steven King

``It seems like people are getting hedonistic about their hair.

``We are seeing a lot of the real precision haircuts again that we got away from with the `Friends' look, which was more about the finish (styling) than cut. Now the look is created more in the mechanics of the cut as opposed to the finish. It's very similar to the classic cuts I learned at the Sassoon Academy in the '70s in London.

``Men are starting to grow their hair out. Maybe it goes along with the tattoos and cigars -- they want to do something a little naughty.

``I have been around short hair for so long that I want to grow my own out now.

``The manufacturers keep telling me perms are coming back, but I don't see any indication of it yet.

``It's a shame because the perm technology is really advanced now.

``Colors: Reds were real popular last year, and they'll still be around, but I see a lot of dark, sultry shades, brunettes.''