Osteria Mazzantini's executive chef Paul K. Lewis has worked at Quattro at the Four Seasons Hotel Houston and Cullen's. (Photo: Paula Murphy)

Osteria Mazzantini's executive chef Paul K. Lewis has worked at Quattro at the Four Seasons Hotel Houston and Cullen's. (Photo: Paula Murphy)

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John Sheely, owner and chef of Mockingbird Bistro, poses outside the BBVA Compass Tower, 2200 Post Oak Blvd., where he will open a new Italian restaurant called Osteria Mazzantini. (Melissa Phillip)

John Sheely, owner and chef of Mockingbird Bistro, poses outside the BBVA Compass Tower, 2200 Post Oak Blvd., where he will open a new Italian restaurant called Osteria Mazzantini. (Melissa Phillip)

Photo: Melissa Phillip / Houston Chronicle

Osteria Mazzantini: First look at John Sheely's new restaurant to open Sept. 2

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They’re cooking on all burners at Osteria Mazzantini. Quite literally. Only days ago they were able to turn on the stoves at the soon-to-open restaurant from John Sheely, chef/owner of Mockingbird Bistro.

“I’m ready to explode. I’ve been tasting all day,” said Sheely, whose new Italian restaurant is set to open next week at 2200 Post Oak in the new BBVA Compass Bank building.

This week Sheely and his executive chef, Paul K. Lewis, have been testing and perfecting recipes that had “existed in paper and in our heads.”

“It’s pretty intense,” Lewis said of the flurry of activity before opening. Sheely has no worries, though: “Everything I’ve tasted so far has been a home run. It’s going to be something spectacular.”

And that’s precisely what he’s looking for with the sleek Osteria Mazzantini, named for the maternal side of Sheely’s family who generations ago left Italy and settled in Galveston. The menu will be an homage to the flavors and culinary traditions of Italy.

So when will Houston get to taste? Next Monday through Wednesday – Aug. 26-27 – Sheely plans to open just the bar area to the public with a limited menu to get the kitchen cranking. The restaurant will then have private dinners Aug. 29-31 and open the full restaurant to the public for dinner on Monday, Sept. 2. Yes, Labor Day. (The restaurant will serve only dinner until Sheely decides his staff is ready for lunch service; but eventually the restaurant will be open for lunch and dinner.)

Osteria Mazzantini was still a physical work in progress during a recent visit. But the space promises elegant design. There is a bar at the entrance with a glass wine vault separating the bar from the dining room that features a ceiling of colorful glass lamps. The space is intimate: only 90 seats. Lewis said he dislikes the word “upscale” to describe the restaurant. “It’s not fine dining, it’s not casual,” he said. Sheely adds: “It’s Mockingbird without the tablecloths.”

Bread service will feature a “tortone” – a potato/honey bread with rosemary from Slow Dough – that will come with olive oil and lardo butter. There are 1,200 wine selections; a high-end coffee service for end of meals using Katz Coffee; an “old school” cheese cart with Italian cheeses served with mostarda and toasted fruit and nut bread; and even sparkling limoncello on tap.

Lewis said it’s both daunting and humbling to tell the story of the Mazzantinis through food. “It’s a great story with the family a great story with the food,” he said. “It’s great ingredients cooked with soul and with love. It’s about ingredients and love. To me that’s what Italian food is.”

Sheely said to expect elegant service – “what we’re known for” at Mockingbird – and a menu of Italian classics done with great finesse.