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May 15 - 21, 2009 eat Ann Oliver ann.oliver@galaxyguides.com Pam’s perfect sponge S ponge cake, custard and fruit is most people’s idea of heaven. Add some soft meringue and they may even fall in love with you. But seriously,what’s not to love about a dessert cake that can be prepared completely the day before? Pam Field was a work colleague in another life atTeknis, a small company that built sophisticated electronic equipment. Pam used to bring her sponge filled with strawberries and whipped vanilla cream for morning tea for the starving plebs (us) in the technical publications department. Her grandparents had owned a country bakery well before the ubiquitous pre-mix cakes and bread became the norm. A tightknit, small group, we often brought food to work, but were all wise enough never to compete with Pam’s perfect sponge and Pam, in return, was generous enough to give us all the recipe. She never mocked us, despite the fact it took us a few years to make anything that came close to hers. The gift of a great recipe is something to be treasured and respected, though it is rare that someone can actually reproduce the recipe in the same way. If you take eggs from the fridge and use them without warming them, her sponge will have the texture of foam rubber. Warming the eggs is critical to the success of the sponge, as is beating the eggs long enough to achieve the proper volume and ribbon of egg and sugar foam. For the recipe, go to www.galaxyguides.com. Pam’s sponge is the basis of the late Lucia Rosella’s favourite cake, the Strega cake,a vanilla-cream- smothered sponge filled with orange custard and drenched with Strega syrup, and about 20 other cakes in multitudinous combinations. Our most recent invention is a raspberry and passionfruit custard sponge – a fabulous combination that has richness without sweetness, and respects and retains the acidity of the passionfruit and tartiness of the raspberries. Some people will be shocked that we admit to using a microwave in our kitchen but wemake no apologies. We are modern cooks open to all innovation; we temper chocolate, melt toffee, make choux, polenta, rice KITCHEN TIPS Now’s the time to buy pomegranates and freeze the seeds to use later in the year. The best we have found, with real ruby hearts, have been at the Adelaide Lebanese Bakery, Anne Street, Thebarton. and all of our ice-cream bases with a microwave technique. No burnt cream, no throwing out expensive eggs, cream and sugar because someone has forgotten to stir and scramble the eggs. Wemake all of our patisserie creams in the microwave for the very same reason. What is important to understand is that none of these end-products require the chemistry of caramelisation, which is not achievable with a microwave. This new passionfruit patisserie cream is a stunner. Not too sweet, it is heaven with raspberries but we think it would be blissful with ripe persimmons, which are cheap and plentiful at the moment. Passionfruit patisserie cream Full batch makes about three litres, half-batch 1.5 litres. 1L/500ml cream 500g/250g Paris Creek full cream milk 1kg/500g fresh or frozen passionfruit pulp 60g/30g unsalted butter 500g/250g caster sugar 160g/80g plain flour 24/12 egg yolks (68g eggs add 2/1 for 61g eggs) The success of this recipe relies on each step being done without delay or the cooking time will be thrown out of kilter. Put the cream, milk and passionfruit pulp into a microwave-safe bowl and microwave on high for 20/13 minutes. Immediately weigh all of the other ingredients and separate the egg yolks. Strain the passionfruit through a coarse sieve to remove the seeds. We use a large ladle to press against the sieve because it makes quick work of the task but doesn’t crush the seeds. Return the mixture to a clean microwave bowl, add the butter and microwave on high for 4/3 minutes. Do not stress if the mix appears to be curdled – it will come together again. Photos: Ann Oliver Put the flour and sugar into the large bowl of your electric mixer and combine with the balloon whisk. Immediately the microwave finishes, whisk on slow speed and slowly add the boiling cream, milk and passionfruit. Thoroughly combine and, if your mixer bowl is microwave-proof, put it straight back into the microwave (otherwise transfer it to a microwave-safe bowl) and cook on medium high for 10/6.5 minutes. Whisk in the egg yolks and microwave for a further 10/6.5 minutes on medium high. Whisk until smooth and then scrape into a container and stand it on a cake rack. Contact cover the patisserie cream with freezer-go-between, allow to cool, cover and refrigerate. TIP: Both the sponge and the patisserie cream freeze brilliantly, and the patisserie cream keeps very well when vacced, so if you’re having a big party and want to get ahead, they are perfect items to choose. Four layers are maximum. To assemble cake Raspberry syrup (keeps indefinitely) 500g fresh or frozen raspberries 850g caster sugar 1500g water Bring everything to the boil and stir just until the sugar is dissolved. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then strain without pressing against the berries. Weigh the syrup and top to 2225g with boiling water; mix well and store in airtight bottles in the fridge. Spoon syrup onto the cake layer and thickly cover with the passionfruit patisserie cream, then cover that with fruit and repeat the process. To finish Cover the cake with the patisserie cream, smooth it out, contact cover with freezer-go-between, pressing it against the cream. The cake can be served with the patisserie cream and some fresh passionfruit pulp added at the last minute or it can be covered with whipped cream. We love to smother it with Italian meringue and torch it at the last minute. Italian meringue holds stable better than plain meringue and the cake can be decorated and out of the fridge for four to five hours. The Independent Weekly 33 www.independentweekly.com.au Adelaide Hills Newest Cellar Door, Bistro and Winery There are great piles of wonderful persimmons at the Adelaide Central Markets and, while they might look beautiful in a bowl, the chances are you’ll end up composting them rather than eating them. To ripen, sit in a single layer a little apart on a paper towel and, as they become ripe, refrigerate in the same way. Anyone with a reliable drying technique they can share, please email ann.oliver@galaxyguides.com Savour Modern Australian, Regional,Seasonal Dishes. See a new state-of-the-art small batch winery. Discover sweeping views. Friendly service.Casual Bliss! OPEN 7 DAYS FROM 10AM Ravensood Lane,Hahndorf, SA 5245 phone (08) 8388 1250 cellar@thelane.com.au www.thelane.com.au For your next event 262 Carrington Street, Adelaide SA 5000 T (08) 8223 2417 www.italiancentre.com.au Contemporary Italian dining 262 Carrington Street, Adelaide SA 5000 T (08) 8227 0766 www.enotecacucina.com.au Appreciate Exquiste Single Vineyard Wines. Linger over lunch in the Bistro,Open 7 days.