This post is actually for P-J. Sorry to start a thread for this, but I couldn't figure out how to attach a file to a private message. Everyone is welcome to view and or comment on my panel design. Attached is a control panel design for the Rims system that I am in the process of putting together and hoping that P-J can provide a wiring diagram for as a follow up to the message I sent earlier. Thanks everyone.

With a few posts and PMs on the forum, I guess that you think it is an easy task to develop a diagram from scratch. It took me a few days and many many hours to put together this solution for your request.

Here is what you were looking for:

Quote:

I'm looking for a drawing that you most likely already have, but I haven't located yet. I'm hoping that if I list what I have you can provide, so here goes,

All switches and PID/Timer were purchased from Auber (except toggle for alarm on/off) those will be Radio Shack.

My preference will be to use DIN Rail and Breakers in the box. Your help with this would be most appreciated and I thank you in advance for your service to everyone who has benefited from your generosity. Thanks again. Brew52

With that said, it took me quite a while to draw a diagram that I hope fits your needs. As a Note: Using a 240V element and powering it with 120V throws the power balance out significantly on a 240V system. I drew the diagram using a 2000W 240V RIMS element. I have interlocked the RIMS element with the RIMS pump so that the element cannot be fired unless the pump switch is on. Also: Before you fire the element, be sure that the fluid flow through the pump is full flow (proper pump priming).

Another really tricky part was including the 3 alarm control switches. They are there (just look carefully - I was out of room on the diagram plan).

Anyway - As always click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper. (11" x 17")

P-J,
First I would like to say that I didn't in any way expect you to do this for me as fast as you did, I was only trying to provide you with as much detailed information as possible before you started on the diagram so you knew exactly what I was trying to accomplish and I figured that a picture is worth a thousand words and like I said I couldn't figure out how to respond to your PM reply with my .PDF attachment. With that being said, all I can say is: WOW! WOW! WOW! - You did an awsome! job for me and I'm sure several other people who are or will do a system similar to mine will benifit from this diagram and I am very thankful for what you have done. I honestly think that I can wire this thing myself now. I also will take your advice about not running the 5500 watt 240v element at 120v. That's why I looked to you for help. Again - Thank You

Quote:

Originally Posted by P-J

With a few posts and PMs on the forum, I guess that you think it is an easy task to develop a diagram from scratch. It took me a few days and many many hours to put together this solution for your request.

Here is what you were looking for:
With that said, it took me quite a while to draw a diagram that I hope fits your needs. As a Note: Using a 240V element and powering it with 120V throws the power balance out significantly on a 240V system. I drew the diagram using a 2000W 240V RIMS element. I have interlocked the RIMS element with the RIMS pump so that the element cannot be fired unless the pump switch is on. Also: Before you fire the element, be sure that the fluid flow through the pump is full flow (proper pump priming).

Another really tricky part was including the 3 alarm control switches. They are there (just look carefully - I was out of room on the diagram plan).

Anyway - As always click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper. (11" x 17")

P.S. Thanks for wiring the RIMS element so that it can't be used without first turning the pump on. I was hoping that I could do that and forgot to ask you. Is there a way that I can do the opposite for the boil element? meaning so that I cannot turn on the chill pump unless the boil element is powered off in order to avoid dry firing while draining the boil kettle? Just curious, but not a big deal you have done enough already. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brew52

P-J,
First I would like to say that I didn't in any way expect you to do this for me as fast as you did, I was only trying to provide you with as much detailed information as possible before you started on the diagram so you knew exactly what I was trying to accomplish and I figured that a picture is worth a thousand words and like I said I couldn't figure out how to respond to your PM reply with my .PDF attachment. With that being said, all I can say is: WOW! WOW! WOW! - You did an awsome! job for me and I'm sure several other people who are or will do a system similar to mine will benifit from this diagram and I am very thankful for what you have done. I honestly think that I can wire this thing myself now. I also will take your advice about not running the 5500 watt 240v element at 120v. That's why I looked to you for help. Again - Thank You

P.S. Thanks for wiring the RIMS element so that it can't be used without first turning the pump on. I was hoping that I could do that and forgot to ask you. Is there a way that I can do the opposite for the boil element? meaning so that I cannot turn on the chill pump unless the boil element is powered off in order to avoid dry firing while draining the boil kettle? Just curious, but not a big deal you have done enough already. Thanks.

You are more than welcome. (Please forgive this old grouch.)

With the BOIL kettle interlock, it can be done but it would require the installation of a float switch to accomplish that. Me? I would not do that as it makes the system more complex and very problematic when done in the BOIL kettle. With a HLT it would be ok as you are dealing with plain water. I think it would also require a seperate pump for that process stage. (I think.)

Edit: After reading this again, What you want to do (Interlock the pump to drain the BOIL kettle) can also be done with a dedicated pump for that task. With that, the price to accomplish it also jumps.

Thanks for your response. I think I can manage to remember to turn off the heat before I drain the boil kettle, but if I do forget I'm sure the element will let me know and I won't make that mistake twice. My system is actually being purpose built as a "No Sparge" so there will be no HLT. I have one pump for each kettle and both kettles drain from the bottom into an in-line strainer from Darrin @ Brewers Hardware before the wort enters the pump heads. I am currently slightly more than half way done with the system and will post pics for everyone to see when finished. I expect to have about $2500.00 invested before it's all done. It is 100% CIP and hard plumbed with Tri-Clamp fittings. Thanks again for the wiring diagram. You saved me alot of stress in the electrical area of this build. Take care.

Quote:

Originally Posted by P-J

You are more than welcome. (Please forgive this old grouch.)

With the BOIL kettle interlock, it can be done but it would require the installation of a float switch to accomplish that. Me? I would not do that as it makes the system more complex and very problematic when done in the BOIL kettle. With a HLT it would be ok as you are dealing with plain water. I think it would also require a seperate pump for that process stage. (I think.)

Edit: After reading this again, What you want to do (Interlock the pump to drain the BOIL kettle) can also be done with a dedicated pump for that task. With that, the price to accomplish it also jumps.