just finished today. Not mentioned in the instructions is the potential for interference between the top tailbone fairing and the gusset at full displacement of the stabilator. Mine did interfere and I had to file an eighth of an inch of the fairing above the gusset.

On the last page of the SB.... I guess you missed it.

Install the F-1294A and F-1294B Upper and Lower Tailcone Fairings and check for clearance at extremes of travel. See KAI Section 12

It is assumed that if you discover interference that you will correct it to gain the clearance described in Section 12

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I finished the mod today, and now need to reinstall the stabilator. I see what you mean, John. The gussets would be tough if not impossible to install after the stab is back on. I really hate messing with those hinge bolts. They are extremely frustrating to put in.

I finished the mod today, and now need to reinstall the stabilator. I see what you mean, John. The gussets would be tough if not impossible to install after the stab is back on. I really hate messing with those hinge bolts. They are extremely frustrating to put in.

I finished the mod today, and now need to reinstall the stabilator. I see what you mean, John. The gussets would be tough if not impossible to install after the stab is back on. I really hate messing with those hinge bolts. They are extremely frustrating to put in.

Ah yes, I remember those bolts from the build! As I recall, one technique I used was to clean the parts real good and then super glue the washers in place until I could slide the bolts in. Just don’t get the glue on your fingers!

As to the table, I reckon one of the adjustable tables would be nice, but one can achieve almost the same result with a small table and various thicknesses of blankets, pads, etc.

I’m in no big hurry to start this project. Sure am looking forward to it though! 😫

I got the stab back on today and the end of travel seemed “squishy”. Then I realized the issue brought up here about the fairing interference was the problem. The fairing was stopping the stab travel before it hit the hard stop. This blog is worth it’s weight in gold!

Just finished this up today and it probably took closer to 16 hours than 6. I prepped, primed and painted all parts before disassembly of the tail. No real pitfalls until reassembly.

Then spent hours getting the pivot bolts and spacing washers in. The newly boxed in structure makes access much more challenging and only from underneath. Connecting the stabilator cable tensioner solo is extremely challenging but I eventually worked out a way to do it solo. Connect the top, pull the lower cable as far forward as possible, wrap tape around the clevis body and clamp lightly with vice grips from the bottom. Insert a piece of cardboard at rear bulkhead to protect it from the vice grips. (the vice grips will push against the bulkhead and lock the lower cable position) With your right hand use the tail leverage to match holes by pulling down on the rear of the stabilator. When aligned insert a short #3 bolt in from the trim motor side. Then slowly from the right work in the correct bolt to the right clevis side to put in the spacer washer and then to the left to install washer followed by outside washer and castle nut/counter pin. Probably is impossible solo to pull the cable tension directly from the clevis and put in the bolt.

Also plan on a lot of trimming to the top rear fuselage cap faring if built per plans. The exposed plates are notched but the notch ends probably 3/8" farther to the front than the clearance previously required for the box spar. Bottom is easy, just the plate thickness.

I got the bolts in from the top using forceps to get them into the hole. I set up my endoscope so I had a good view to manipulate the bolts. It also helps to chamfer the last 1/8” of the bolts so you can tap them into place. The spacing washers are a challenge. I used the endoscope to estimate the spacing with the stab centered. Then I pulled it off and super glued the washers in . It worked well, but it really hurt taking the stab off to do it after going through the gyrations to get it reattached to determine the spacing. The control cable turnbuckle locking clips are a pain because the alignment has to be perfect to form the groove for the locking pin.

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