I”m curious as to what, if anything, one could take from this collection and translate to a retail collection.

marlie

Probably the only think they’d use is some of the fabric. I could *maybe* see some of the plaids rendered in a “regular” suit.

bitchybitchybitchy

I’d be interested to see some of the fabrics rendered in more conventional clothes.

Kristin McNamara

I’m hoping those peepee pyramids become a thing.

bitchybitchybitchy

Thom Browne’s update of codpieces;they look as if they’d be uncomfortable, but then again, I’m not a male.

marlie

See, I’d think that having the extra room might be extra comfy, but yeah, not a dude here either.

evave2

Oh yeah, codpieces. An idea who time has not and will not come again.

bitchybitchybitchy

Whenever I saw portraits of males wearing codpieces I always thought that they looked uncomfortable, but as I said, as a female, I have no firsthand eperience.

FrigidDiva

It looks like the wee-wee tepee I got as baby shower present for my son: it fits over the wee-wee while you change their diaper so you don’t get sprayed with pee-pee.

H2olovngrl

I was gonna say the last pair of plaid shorts, maybe, then I went back and was reminded of the *delightful* plaid codpiece, and well, no…

barbarienne

The saddest Transformers ever. The Depressedagons.

bitchybitchybitchy

Optimus minus prime, I presume.

ChelseaNH

My immediate thought was “clowns playing rugby.”

Latin Buddy

The prints are amazing. Note that I said “prints” and not the cut or structure.

I’ve tried on some of the prices and they’re WAY too boxy.

Inspector_Gidget

Those models all look SO thrilled to be cosplaying.

Sam Smith

I like the showiness of the show.

sleepycat

LOVE the patterns, the clothes, however…

gabbilevy

I do always enjoy seeing his runway shows versus how they translate when they are actually put on real people.

marlie

I think that’s the only reason why his brand of WTFery sort of gets a pass. He does the artistic runway show, and then he take elements (like fabric) – as small as they may be – and translates to the real world.

Thomas

And we’re back to WTFuckery. The shapes don’t do anything for the figure and who wants to look like they’re wearing a cup or codpiece?

jonnyf8

Eveyone else is looking like what this collection normally looks. But once again Thom Browne’s is the most outrageous. The colors are great.

kimmeister

Half look like Transformers suits, the other half are superhero uniforms, complete with added-on abs rendered in glen plaid. I kind of love it and am curious to see how it will translate to RTW. However, the sheer plastic masks seriously creep me out.

I do love the shoes in the first pic, and the color combo of the first pink/gray/white colorblocked suit.

bitchybitchybitchy

The models are giving such sad clown faces.

FibonacciSequins

The artistry of the tailoring is a thrill! Loving the shoes. What about the more wearable/sellable items worn by the seated models? I’d like to watch a video of this show to get a better sense of presentation.

Fanny_Trollope

Will no one think of the marionettes?

bitchybitchybitchy

The Marionette Liberation Front has not yet issued a comment.

MoHub

“You hold yourself like this; you hold yourself like that.
By hook and crook, you try to look both angular and flat.
To cultivate the trim rigidity of limb,
You ought to get a marionette and form your style on him.”

I get that he’s creative, but I find this more art than fashion. This is like stuff for the male Lady Gaga. I think Alexander McQueen did a better job than Thom Browne at mixing art and fashion.

andi56

But the greatest designers always emphasized art over fashion, like McQueen. Imagine it as fashion for the stage, like Delaunay and the Orphism movement, which married art with dance. I think it’s no different with Thom Browne, and he’s so far beyond the cheapness of Gaga, heading off into Diaghilev territory! I had to interview a designer once (for what else? Interview), and he kept going on an on about art and structure. he was also no different than Thom Browne.

Thomas

I guess. I just wish it was a little bit more wearable. It comes off a little costumey to me. I know that everything is dramatically changed and toned down before it hits retail, but I don’t think the shapes are particularly flattering in this collection. And I appreciate the construction of some of the pieces, but in some cases I think there’s TOO much going on with the construction.

andi56

I think you’re absolutely right! In these pieces, it’s all about construction. It’s almost like some of the better designers of the early 20th century, especially the French, were prizing construction and elegance, but construction *serving* elegance, rather than construction for its own sake. His are like costumes for the opera. His retail stuff is amazing, in how well done it is.

andi56

Thomas, you’re so thoughtful about these things. Are you a writer?

Thomas

No lol My parents are though. I’m an arts management major at SUNY Purchase. Thank you though 🙂

Aurumgirl

I never look at his clothes as garments. They’re art. I’m sure they’re then “toned down” into wearable pieces but when he puts on a show he’s putting some great ideas out there for you to ponder, not some separates for you to add to your wardrobe. When he does that, he’s spectacular.

In truth I’d love it if people decided these clothes reflect their thoughts exactly, and wore them around just so that others would be provoked to think a bit, too–but realistically we don’t really have a culture that accepts that. So I’m awfully glad Thom Browne does things the way he does.

barbarienne

I’m not sure if people dress exactly like this in my wildest dreams, but I’m with you in wanting people to wear some crazy stuff. I’m still hoping codpieces come back into fashion.

andi56

It’s like a couture acid trip!

Agent Sculder

See, now this kind of crazy, I can embrace. Thom Browne doesn’t make regular clothes for his runway shows, and he puts on a real show. It’s haute couture for men, and nobody does it quite like him. While non of this is wearable in the real world, the tailoring on clothes is just impeccable. Great color and great prints too. I think it’s great that at least one designer does this sort of thing for their men’s collection.

Thomas

I preferred Walter Van Beirendonck’s brand of crazy this season.

Grumpy Girl

And there’s not the resorting to cheesecake in it, either. And while I understand that swimsuits are part of (late) Spring, it’s still cool to see something clothed and outrageous.

Jessica Freeman

I noticed all the stuff going on in the background and would love to see the actual show. It looks really interesting.

Monica

Mecha Military Clowns in Codpieces

marlie

?…I…?…um…? Codpieces??

demidaemon

Not just codpieces, but limp fabric codpieces (I was trying to find a better way to describe them, but failed). I wonder what the models thought when “no underwear” was one of the stipulations of the show. Because there are some defined crotches in this collection. Which on the one hand entertains me and, on the other, makes me sad for the models.

sienna elm

I thought they looked like slightly padded codpieces. As much as I admire the artistry I have to admit I laughed heartily and out loud at the sight of the first one.

FrigidDiva

Some of them look like they stick out though…maybe it’s not the material? I must back away from the computer screen. I’m at work and getting odd looks. Also, the codpieces decorated with butterflies? Too awesome for words.

demidaemon

Heh. Well, the original purpose of the codpiece was to help enhance a man’s personal parts, especially if he was lacking. I’m thinking it may either be some combination of the seaming and fit or the model’s are wearing cups. Or, they are just THAT well-endowed. Or, these codpieces are doing what codpieces were intended to do. Take your pick.

ETA: Structural-codpiece pants aside, I’m interested in the potential of a lot of the jackets. It’s pointless to throw a fit about Thom Browne showing outlandish clothes. It’s what he does, darlings. I have to give props for a designer who still manages to push the envelope in an interesting way during a season that’s been awash in WTFuckery.

MilaXX

I often imagine what Michelle Obama will have adapted for herself when I see his collections.

Alloy Jane

I would love to see someone rock the brain hat the model in the bottom row of thumbnails is wearing.

Heather

I love, love, love how weird Thom Browne is. Also, as an added bonus, all of those shoes are gorgeous and totally wearable.

demidaemon

THE KING OF WTF HAS RETURNED! ALL HAIL THE KING!

Now that that’s out of my system, the way everything is pieced together and you can see the seams just doesn’t work. Fabric codpieces are kind of a big NO in the real world, even if they are amusing to look at. And I’m going to call the pastel striped Stay Puff suit a big ol’ miss.

t bell

Got that right, baby.

P M

I love the models’ expressions, some of which seem to say ‘What did I do to deserve this?’ HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

BKM

I think the inspiration was actually the muscles/anatomy of the human body. You can see it clearly in the 16th image and more abstracted in the other ones. It’s really clever.

smayper

I love the crazy socks. I know some young women who could and would rock the hell out of them with thrift store denim or short black skirts.

KendraMR

Zelda realness

Mad_Van_Red

This reminds me of organ grinder monkeys. It must be the combo of little caps+creepy masks.

bitchybitchybitchy

I’m now imagining a movie about the revolt of the organ grinder monkeys and their attempt to take over the world

bluefish

Harlequims! I love the Thom Browne craziness for men and boys because one can either go full on or just incorporate a touch here or there. Love the chances taken and the artistry of the runway looks.

conniemd

I expect kinda cray cray and costumy from Tom Browne as he really is an artiste. But I don’t see anything redeemable in this collection as art, design, costume, etc. Just absurdity.

Kimmu

I actually sort of love the less organic, sharp boxy ones because they make me think of Gundams as designer suits. I am 100% ok with Shin Kidou Senki Gundam Thom Browne.

MaggieMae

I always look forward to seeing his collections. This is not one of my favs though.

t bell

Okay, I have stopped laughing and cleaned the spewed scotch off the screen. This is beyond bizarre and there are no words to describe it.

Imasewsure

OK this is suitably hilarious so I love it. I also assume that none of this is ever duplicated for stores or anywhere else so I can live with it. He just shows this stuff for fun and then sells slightly edgy suits, right?

Mona_Visa

Someone find the oilcan, the Tinman needs help!!!

rh33

Are these the costumes from a German Expressionist movie? (Love the shoes.)

MilaXX

LOVE IT! It’s Thom Browne and I would expect nothing less than peen pants from him. SHOES!!! Love the footwear and honestly hope at least one savvy boy star to wear a pair of these shoes/boots.

Shawn EH

Some of those jackets are going to show up at events, I’m sure. Maybe not the striated muscle ones.

YoungSally

Paging Max Headroom

Shawn EH

Well, it’s definitely a more fresh way to do 1980s.

throwslikeagirl

Oh, now he’s just ****ing with us. Reminds me of the costumes for cubist, dadaist, and Russian constructivist performances in the teens and twenties. I’m sure there are concepts there, but I can’t find them.

BobStPaul

I suspect there’s a whole generation of prospective male models reconsidering their career possibilities after this season.

Feral Fremen

I think the masks (or whatever facial harness things are happening) were necessary because these models would otherwise never be able to keep a straight face thus clothed.

KateShouldBeWorking

Maybe this collection was designed to make the women’s collection seem more reasonable.

David Calder

I feel like Thom Browne is calling us out on our culture’s celebrity bulge obsession…?

Jangle57

As soon as I saw the name Thom Browne, I thought, ‘this is going to be some wackadoodle collection’ – and I think wackadoodle is an understatement. Hard to believe he grew up in Allentown, PA (next town over from me); he so doesn’t fit the vibe….

ankali

Dude, seriously? Allentown, where they’re tearing all the factories down? That is incongruous. I always figured he sprang fully formed from the head of, like, Popova or Dali.

Tanya Wade

The 13th look reminds me of Ilia Kulik’s figure skating costume for his gold medal-winning performance in 1998— the vinyl giraffe look.
Other than that, I got nuthin’. Oh, flowers on the crotchtal. I got that.

boweryboy

I’m really feeling this collection. He’s still bringing the craycray like I like it, but at the same time it’s his most graphically bold collection to date. When broken down to individual bits there are some pieces that are going to translate well to ready-to-wear.

Jacqueline Wessel

Oh the poor sad robot clowns. I’m intrigued by the suits that are constructed to reflect the planes of the body. Hate the muscle suits. And those three-legged pants seem like a good idea in theory, but I think they draw the eye “there”. (But not a much as Eldridge Cleaver did.)

ItchyInAppalachee

Thunderdome in the Hamptons

PastryGoddess

Want those shoes for myself, and I kinda love the color palette and patterns here

SewingSiren

Difficult yes?

Trickytrisha

‘Cause doesn’t every man want to be dressed with a flappy fabric butterfly covering his junk?

Alloy Jane

Dear lord help me I LOVE it! It reminds me of the Twilight Zone. Love the “muscle” suit and that he also gave men hosiery with appliqué butterflies.

Glam Dixie

It will be quite interesting to see how this gets interpreted for ready to wear. I’m actually loving the shoes.

Aidan B

Well OK then.

quiltrx

I saw Thom Browne as ‘next post’ and was all BRING ON THE CRAZY, BABY!!!
The face things will probably be nightmare fuel for tonight, so thanks TB.
Of course it’s batshit, but there are odd little bits that I like–like the tuck panels and origami shoulders on some of the jackets. I will be interested to see how some of this gets translated, if it all, into sellable clothes.
And am I the only one who gets a “True Faith” video vibe from some of this?

Lower L

True Faith–nailed it!

AnaRoW

I think the sellable clothes are on the sitting models.

quiltrx

That well may be! The plaid schoolboy suits look relatively normal from what I can see.

I’d be wearing my sad clown face if I were dressed like that, too. So far, this takes the cake. I triple dog dare a menswear collection to make me belly-laugh harder.

snarkykitten

I love that the models’ faces run the gamut from utter shame to rage.

wunderkind17

I thought Dragon Ball was the inspiration

ankali

I feel like the tailoring isn’t up to TB’s usual impeccable standard. I adore him, but this one’s my least favorite of his last several collections. I’m sure he’ll be devastated to hear it.

Gatto Nero

The deconstruction in these pieces is intriguing, but too much of this veers into Klaus Nomi costume territory.

MightyMarshal

I can’t roll my eyes hard enough at Thom Brown’s desperate and vain ploys for attention. He hasn’t produced an attractive collection in how long? This is beyond unwearable; it’s just ugly.

robin-m

Plaid codpieces? Are the men’s collections always this nuts, and I just never noticed before?

poorellensmith

These look like costumes for some upcoming Johnny Depp/Tim Burton collaboration.

Ghost of Ike Turner

I…what?

MandyM

OK, Project Runway designers, here is a stack of post-it notes, origami paper, and newsprint. You have 2 days to make some killer menswear inspired by the Lollipop Guild from the Wizard of Oz. Aaaaand GO!

icm

WTF!

vickilu

I mean, as art it’s not even that interesting. The hell am I supposed to see with this collection? Moldy trees with tiny abs?

These suits remind me of the Teenage Mutant Ninja turtles in all the wrong ways- the built in “abs”, the shape of the puffy suits- pure “heroes in a half shell.”

Martha Anderson

why?

there comes a time where the consumption of resources “just because we can” needs to be re-thought

where did these fabrics come from ? At what cost to the land, the people?

RescueMe23

I have to stop viewing these collections at work or I’ll get fired for laughing so loud. Looks like the Tin Man meets a Paper Crafter…

Lily

At this point, we’re all just being trolled.

Laurieandclaire

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. I just do not get Thom Browne. As performance art, possibly. As influential fashion, nope!

boweryboy

Oddly enough he is kind of influential fashion wise. The highwater pants/no socks look that’s all the rage right now can be attributed to him.

Wink

My eyes are over-stimulated and need a rest.

mar

Thank you! Just had a good laugh with my morning coffee! These guys
look like they’re wondering if their careers are over after being in
this show.

little britches

It’s the 100th anniversary of the start of the First World War. I feel like this collection takes that theme and runs with it, wildly. It feels inspired by Dada and Thunderdome, corpses, soldiers toy and real, and masculine looks from mostly the 20th C. but other times as well. Scary, exciting, pretty.

Gatto Nero

Thank you for this. For all its modernist touches, there is a nostalgic (and even elegiac) tone to this collection that I couldn’t quite identify. Well said.

Grumpy Girl

Wow, that brings the whole mask thing to another level, thinking in a WW1 context, where the prosthetic masks were major for so many of the “broken mugs.” Reading what folks post here really is such a fun mix of thoughtful and amusing (codpieces).

Shawn EH

There’s a plastic surgery, self-improvement, even gym-culture vibe as well, which dates back to that era and the Youth Movement; machine men, perfect robot bodies.

I always get a kick out of Thom Browne collections. They’ve been bringing us madly creative WTFery since long before every Thom, Dick and Harry jumped on the bandwagon.

Audrey Lee

Holy fucking lol, this is outstanding and terrible and everything at the same time. Oh my god.

lecoffeeaddict

He’s fucking with us, right?

traceyishere

Stupid.

Bernadette

If I could get away with wearing a butterfly on my codpiece this would totally work for me.

Shawn EH

Beautiful, editorial, love the influences.

Mary Lauer

Ack fodder for my nightmares. Those plastic faces!! And the clothes! They look like something Alex and his droogs would wear, complete with protective cup!

Snailstsichr

I’m digging the shoes.

evave2

Every single one of the jackets is just horrible.

Normally when Thom Browne gets into the rotation, I am prepared to overlook how the models looks, because THOM BROWNE.

I THINK this is insulting to African potentates AND soccer fans.

The only thing I could stand was one plain black short in the middle.

But every jacket and every mismatched print (or matching print) short pair of pants was just no no no no NO. What is this/

Does anybody know who buys this stuff? I am curious, can anybody tell me who wears this stuff, so that I can see it without the horrible model makeup which I have to struggle mightily not to overwhelm me? I just want to see it is some other habitat.

Who is Thom Browne designing for? Does everybody run around going This is FABULOUS and I can’t see it?

My fault! HAD to look after swearing NOT to look at anymore menswear collections — EVER! I’m done.

ThaliaMenninger

The models look miserable and it’s no wonder. Hideous, ridiculous and stupid are the first words that come to mind.

Linda LaPaz

I wonder WTF is going thru their minds?

ThaliaMenninger

They are repeating “It’s exposure, it’s exposure, it’s exposure,” or “I’m so glad I did the for-money contract instead of taking these clothes in trade.”

Therese Bohn

The first picture and the masks in all of the pictures sent my mind straight back to The Twilight Zone where evil little Billy Mumy turns the drunk party guest into a jack in the box with only a head and a bobbing from a spring. The puffy pants and jackets remind me of the Grey’s Anatomy book cover where the muscle layers are revealed. So, this is how one looks turned inside out? The sitting models make me think of POWs or concentration camp inmates awaiting their death. So much darkness here — and the butterfly codpieces are what? Liberation? I always appreciate the building skills that go into these pieces, but Thom Browne stuff always strikes me as less fashion than theater. (and really dark theater at that!)
This is total nightmare fuel and WTF-ery. So I suppose he succeeded in whatever his goal was…

save_the_hobbit

His collections literally give me nightmares…

prettybigkitty

Oh man, I’m embarrassed for those models. They look ridiculous.

BigWhiteGrannyPanties

“If I only had a heart…”

ktr33

Digging, searching for the off-the-runway possibilities. Just the white shirts, as far as I can tell.

Renaissance_Man_ATL

I’d kill for a pair of each of the shoes and boots. The rest is typical Thom Browne fuckery.