The unique design of this mold incorporates a top and back clamping method that rivals those used in full-scale production shops.

The KIT includes all the mold components and the flexible top/back recessed clamping caul. All parts are precision machined on our CNC equipment.

READ THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING ASSEMBLY – WORK METHODICALLY AND YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A PRECISION ASSEMBLY MOLD.

The mold is assembled using 1 ½ “ finish nails and plenty of TiteBond glue. Begin by placing several of the mold slats in one of the profile forms DO NOT GLUE at this time.

Apply glue to the tops of the slats --- apply glue to the corresponding slots in the matching profile form. Position the profile form to the slats. The slats must be even or slightly proud of the profile forms (SEE PICTURE BELOW) any overhang will be trimmed later in the assembly process.

As you progress frequently check to make sure the assembly is square to the bench top and that the top and bottom profile forms are aligned. Use two 1 1/2" finish nails in each slat. Drive one nail straight and angle the second nail to create a slight wedge effect.

Continued the process adding slats by locating them in the lower profile form and nailing the top form. Note that the end slats for some style molds will have to be trimmed because the ends of the profile pieces are narrowed slightly. Slats are doubled up at the ends of the mold sections.

Take care and make sure the end slats are flush and DO NOT GO BEYOND THE ENDS OF THE PROFILE FORMS doing so would change the size of the mold inside dimensions.

The slat over hang must be uniform and matching top and bottom profile form.

Flip the assembly over apply glue to the slats and slots – nail in place as before – check alignment and square frequently. Repeat the above process for the other half of the mold

Allow the two halves to dry for at least 30 minutes before continuing. The next step is to mate the two mold sections using the provided splice plates. Use clamps and bar clamps to align the two halves. The centerlines of the plates will match the centerlines of the mold. PRE-DRILL all the holes than secure the plates with the 2” screws.

The slat contours must now be refined. Using a ¼” wood chisel and sanding drum, shave the slats even with the profile form. Start at the outer edge; take shallow cuts, work toward the center. Work from the top and bottom of the mold. Keep the chisel at a slight angle to the slat; this will keep the chisel from digging into the wood. For the final cuts place the chisel directly on the profile form and slide it across the slat – again from the top and bottom side of the mold. ITS BEST TO LEAVE THE END SLATS UNTIL LAST.

An excellent finish sanding tool can be fabricated from a 6” piece of 2" dia.PVC pipe. Using 3M Super 77 adhesive, glue a 3 ½” piece of 80 grit sandpaper to the center of the pipe. Wrap both end of the pipe with duct tape along side the sand paper NOT ON TOP OF THE PAPER use enough layers so the tape is even with the grit on the sand paper. The tape will act as a bearing surface guided by the profile form – the high spots on the slats will be sanded flush

During the rim assembly process the top and bottom of the mold should have been defined, the rim should always be placed in the mold in the same orientation.

Re-drill the rim leveling blocks to enlarge the holes to -------- than cut the blocks into individual pieces.

The leveling blocks will have two different positions one for gluing the top plate and a different location when gluing the back. Start with back plate gluing position.

Since the plane of the top edge of the rim is almost flat, set the rim in the mold 1 ½” from the profile form surface around the entire perimeter.

When the rim is positioned properly secure in place with the waist clamp RE-CHECK ALIGNMENT!!

Place a leveling block along the rim edge --- center the hole on the slat and drill an 1/8” pilot hole.

Fasten the leveling block to the slat with a #6 x 1” pan head screw.

Repeat this process along the rim edge, 5 slats per side, Its best not to place a leveler on the inner most waist slat.

To set up the mold for gluing on the top the same levelers are use in a different position. Unscrew all the levelers and set aside. Slide the top edge of the rim ¾” above the surface of the profile form --- a small block of wood works good as a gage.

Pre-drill and screw the levelers along the back edge of the rim using the above procedure. Note that the levelers will follow the contour of the back and thus completely support the rim assembly when gluing on the top plate

Gluing the clamping caul together is just a matter of appling liberal amounts glue and aligning the perimeter reinforcement with edge of the 1/8” profiled layer. The more clamps the better.

Make a mark on the mold upper bout centerline 1 ¼” from the inside.

Mark the centerlines on both ends of the clamping caul using the END MOST pilots as reference. Position the caul to the mold using the mark at the upper bout and the centerlines to locate --- clamp in place

Drill 1/8” pilot holes through the caul and into the mold – use the holes in the caul as guides all the way around.

The above procedure is repeated on the opposite side of the mold. After that is completed the holes in the clamping caul must be drilled slightly over size using a 3/16” drill bit. This will allow for minor adjustments when actually gluing the top or back to the rim

Using the clamping system is straight forward – the levelers are secured in the top or back locations that we pre-drilled the top or back is placed on the rim, pinned, taped or rubber banded to keep it from moving out of position. The caul is placed on top with the recess down to allow for the contour of the top or back. Fasten with 2 ½” screws. Final tightening should be done by hand.

Viewed from inside the rim, it can be seen that the clamping caul applies pressure directly to the perimeter of the rim and also allows clearance for the top/back contour

Careful hand tightening will result in a perfect plate to rim contact.