So I did the "disconnect the linkage a put it in forward to see if it'll crank" test and yes, it cranks when in gear...dangit....

Q: is the neutral "lock out" a mechanical thing or an electrical thing?

I took some pics of the trans. - you can see the "sender" unit with one white/orange stripe wire going to it from the distribution/circuit breaker block on the rear of the motor. The other white/orange wire (with the ring terminal end fitting) was disconnected by someone for some reason... it looks like it's about the length to be able to reach up to one of the posts on the solenoid, but why?

Is this purpose of this "sender" some sort of mechanical/electrical unit telling the trans. not to start?

I don't want to just going hooking that wire up and "testing" things without a bit of direction from those more knowledgable than I.

Help please -I really don't want my daughter running over me accidently when the boat stalls and she inadvertantly starts it in gear, panics and then,well, you have one less wakeboarder to worry about.

Wes

Engine Nut

05-13-2005, 01:45 PM

The way the switch is supposed to work it that it is in series with the yellow/red wire that comes from the keyswitch through the boat and engine harness to the neutral safety switch to the starter solenoid. The switch only has continuity when the trans is in neutral which allows the starter to activate. I have attached a simple diagram.

Engine Nut

wesgardner

05-13-2005, 02:19 PM

Hey Engine Nut,

I'll hook it all back up this weekend and see what happens...there is some "suspicious" new wiring from the key switch down to the solenoid...gets me thinkin' - someone couldn't/didn't want to bother to figure this out and/or decided to jump the safety switch out and/or the safety switch went bad so they jumped it out? Possible?

My guess is IF the safety switch is bad, I can get a new one from Borgw/Warner...thanks a million for the clarify...I REALLY think its a bit dangerous in its current config.

Thank again

Wes

wesgardner

05-13-2005, 02:23 PM

You might also get a chuckle out of this...my family built these things awhile back - 1913...The small side wheels retracted once you got going...pretty cool styling....

The Bi-Autogo was the world's first large, experimental, two-wheeled automobile. It was intended for exclusive production only, and is powered by the first automotive V-8 engine built in Detroit. It featured an aluminum body, the first on-wheel horn button, the first disappearinng arm rest and invisible door hinges.

I'll hook it all back up this weekend and see what happens...there is some "suspicious" new wiring from the key switch down to the solenoid...gets me thinkin' - someone couldn't/didn't want to bother to figure this out and/or decided to jump the safety switch out and/or the safety switch went bad so they jumped it out? Possible?

My guess is IF the safety switch is bad, I can get a new one from Borgw/Warner...thanks a million for the clarify...I REALLY think its a bit dangerous in its current config.

Thank again

Wes

Just take the wires off the switch and hook a continuity tester or ohmmeter across the terminals. When the shift arm is in neutral you should have continuity through the switch. When you shift to forward or reverse you should not have continuity. If yours does not work like that, get a new switch.

Engine Nut

wesgardner

05-14-2005, 10:16 AM

Hey Engine Nut,

You fixed it! Don't know why the thing was taken out of the circuit.....perhaps as the old shifter/throttle wore out (and was abused) someone couldn't (or didn't want to bother) figure it out so they just jumped it out...