1. Internet aces. I'm thinking about picking up a small Class B for ski bumming and dirt bike riding in the states. I would like Internet in the evenings but will be dry camping most times away from any wifi. Sooooooo how is internet accessed from a motorhome (with no cell phone contracts)? Is it possible to do without yearly contracts as I'm planning on being in the motorhome for 3-4 months per year?

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ftb, I started a thread about this a while ago. I didn't reach any real conclusion though. Might see something that will help.

Thank you for the link hppyfngy. That thread was both revealing and sad. I had no idea in a country packed with as many motorhomes that we have really no wealth of choices for internet access other than leeching from Starbucks or through cell phone contracts.

PirateJohn - Since i will only be in the states 3-4 months per year I was trying to get around without a yearly cell phone contract. Right now I'm getting together a few Terrabytes of movies N stuff to keep me entertained in the evening since internet access may be difficult. Now I need to find if any carriers have pay as you go options for Cell service.

Thank you for the link hppyfngy. That thread was both revealing and sad. I had no idea in a country packed with as many motorhomes that we have really no wealth of choices for internet access other than leeching from Starbucks or through cell phone contracts.

PirateJohn - Since i will only be in the states 3-4 months per year I was trying to get around without a yearly cell phone contract. Right now I'm getting together a few Terrabytes of movies N stuff to keep me entertained in the evening since internet access may be difficult. Now I need to find if any carriers have pay as you go options for Cell service.

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There are several smaller carriers that will offer a month to month contract on an Internet service. I had a contract with Cricket for a USB device but they don't have any signal out in the desert regions where I have been working so I had to go to AT&T, which is pretty pricey. I think that AT&T also offers a month to month USB device but be careful - some of these services make it difficult to impossible on a short-term basis and they manage to stick you with extra months.

I was chatting with the folks that have the company whose link I sent to you and they told me that satellite service for RVers has practically died this year. Reasons? The US economy has made it difficult for retirees to travel (very sad), and that more and more RV parks are offering wireless. That, and cellular Internet is becoming more and more available.

Personally, I haven't been on a site that didn't have cellular Internet since last Fall, and at that time I was 40 miles down a dirt road from any grocery store, gas station, or anything except maybe a hunting lodge or two.

When I go into town I take my iPhone and iPad and go somewhere that has Internet and download as much as I can.

If you want to watch movies and television consider getting a Dish satellite system. $250 for the receiver, about $100 for an antenna on a tripod. They do offer a month to month service for RVers.

There are several smaller carriers that will offer a month to month contract on an Internet service. I had a contract with Cricket for a USB device but they don't have any signal out in the desert regions where I have been working so I had to go to AT&T, which is pretty pricey. I think that AT&T also offers a month to month USB device but be careful - some of these services make it difficult to impossible on a short-term basis and they manage to stick you with extra months.

I was chatting with the folks that have the company whose link I sent to you and they told me that satellite service for RVers has practically died this year. Reasons? The US economy has made it difficult for retirees to travel (very sad), and that more and more RV parks are offering wireless. That, and cellular Internet is becoming more and more available.

Personally, I haven't been on a site that didn't have cellular Internet since last Fall, and at that time I was 40 miles down a dirt road from any grocery store, gas station, or anything except maybe a hunting lodge or two.

When I go into town I take my iPhone and iPad and go somewhere that has Internet and download as much as I can.

If you want to watch movies and television consider getting a Dish satellite system. $250 for the receiver, about $100 for an antenna on a tripod. They do offer a month to month service for RVers.

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Fantastic information, thank you.

Todays economy has certainly put a strain on a lot of industries. The RV sector is most likely feeling it even worse as it is usually discretionary income that stimulates most RV usage.

Good news about RV sights increasing usage of wireless, unfortunately most of my camping will be dry docking (4 days avg. stay) and not making use of RV sights. I have got now 3 terabytes of movies and TV to keep me occupied but what I'd really like is internet access to pass some time. However it looks like its not really available cost effectively without a yearly cell contract. I'll check into the options you listed and thanks for the insight.

Just missed out on an Ebay Class B by $800 today. So the search continues.

I'm finding most inexpensive Class B's (under $10k) often don't have a generator. Knowing nothing about approximate amperage draw would you be able to power enough LED lights to function inside a B for a few days? Say if its only for lights and computer usage and using deep cycle battery(ies)?

I would suggest that you keep looking; I have a relatively junky Southwind RV that's worth about $5K and it has a good generator. Good enough that I may scrap out this RV rather than sell it simply because the parts are worth more than the whole (with that said if your travels take you to the San Antonio, TX area and you need an occasional RV then drop me a line and we might kick something around).

Good places for RV bargains are eBay (search for repos and no reserve sales - you see some bargains every so often), Craigslist, and www.RVTrader.com

When looking for something in the USA remember that this is a big country (although I am sure that you know that) and even Texas is big enough that some RVs may not be economical if you have to travel across the state to pick it up.

I'm finding most inexpensive Class B's (under $10k) often don't have a generator. Knowing nothing about approximate amperage draw would you be able to power enough LED lights to function inside a B for a few days? Say if its only for lights and computer usage and using deep cycle battery(ies)?

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You can also pick up a nice Honda or Yamaha generator for under $1k that would keep you in business for weeks.

Or install deep cycle house battery and a simple charging system. That would get you several days.

Hi gang, we recently purchased a 1986 Mini Winnie class C on a Ford chassis and although in generally good condition, the furnace will not light up. Have been reading the trouble shooting info and for starters, it looks like I need to test the "sail" switch, but in order to reach this switch, it looks like I will need to pull the furnace out of its cubby. Does that sound correct? If this is not the right thread fort his question, please point me to a correct one. Thanks very much!

Hi gang, we recently purchased a 1986 Mini Winnie class C on a Ford chassis and although in generally good condition, the furnace will not light up. Have been reading the trouble shooting info and for starters, it looks like I need to test the "sail" switch, but in order to reach this switch, it looks like I will need to pull the furnace out of its cubby. Does that sound correct? If this is not the right thread fort his question, please point me to a correct one. Thanks very much!

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i'm not sure about the location of the sail switch, but when you say that it will not light, do you mean that the pilot won't light? does it have a pilot? will the pilot light, but the burner won't light? burner lights, but doesn't stay on?

Someone went around and sold a bunch of Honda generators out here in the oil patch and one thing that I have to say is that most of them start easier than any other generator that I have ever seen.

With that said your aren't going to run air conditioning or electric heat or electric kitchen appliances without a healthy generator or a huge investment in batteries and an inverter.

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I always forget that I go much more minimal when I'm boondocking, or camping in general, than a lot of folks. No kitchen appliances at all except the gas cook top. Battery is fine for occasional fan and lights and laptop.

My little Honda EU 2000i covers any other longer term needs. Would like to get solar going but not a real priority for me...

i'm not sure about the location of the sail switch, but when you say that it will not light, do you mean that the pilot won't light? does it have a pilot? will the pilot light, but the burner won't light? burner lights, but doesn't stay on?

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When you turn the furnace "on" at the thermostat, then advance the temp setting until it "clicks", you then wait a second or two and the blower begins to circulate air (cold). Up to this point it is all text book, then what is supposed to happen (according to the manual) is the air pressure from the blower pushes a "sail" switch shut, and this completes the circuit to a micro-switch (overheat switch?) and in turn powers up the module and then furnace ignition is supposed to take place. No matter how long the blower runs, nothing else ever happens. According the trouble shooting guide, the first thing to check after verifying blower is supplying air pressure is to ensure the sail switch is closing and providing a circuit. I can see no way to access the sail switch without removing the furnace from the pocket it is built into under the counter, there does not appear to be any access door or anything,. This is my first attempt at a furnace repair so wanted to make sure I was on the right path here. By the way, it is a Suburban NT34S furnace.

When you turn the furnace "on" at the thermostat, then advance the temp setting until it "clicks", you then wait a second or two and the blower begins to circulate air (cold). Up to this point it is all text book, then what is supposed to happen (according to the manual) is the air pressure from the blower pushes a "sail" switch shut, and this completes the circuit to a micro-switch (overheat switch?) and in turn powers up the module and then furnace ignition is supposed to take place. No matter how long the blower runs, nothing else ever happens. According the trouble shooting guide, the first thing to check after verifying blower is supplying air pressure is to ensure the sail switch is closing and providing a circuit. I can see no way to access the sail switch without removing the furnace from the pocket it is built into under the counter, there does not appear to be any access door or anything,. This is my first attempt at a furnace repair so wanted to make sure I was on the right path here. By the way, it is a Suburban NT34S furnace.

Thanks for any help or guidance you or other ADV'ers can provide!

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My experience is that "sail switches", which cost about $3 in bulk, are all pieces of shit in a can. I would bypass the sail switch at the controller and see what happens.

PS: if that fixes it, replace the sail switch. It does serve a very useful purpose.

Someone went around and sold a bunch of Honda generators out here in the oil patch and one thing that I have to say is that most of them start easier than any other generator that I have ever seen.

With that said your aren't going to run air conditioning or electric heat or electric kitchen appliances without a healthy generator or a huge investment in batteries and an inverter.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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I have a Honda 1000 generator that runs a 5500 BTU window unit just fine, Using the rule of thumb that it takes 20 BTUs per square foot of living space that would be plenty for most RVs up to 30 feet or so. It will freeze me out of my class B in 90 degree weather.