The Maconnais

The Mâconnais is arguably Burgundy’s most dynamic region. Once, only Pouilly-Fuissé stood out from the crowd; today, appellations such as Pouilly-Vinzelles and the newly-created Viré-Clessé are coming alive, while a new generation of growers are producing some excellent Mâcon Villages. Furthermore, one or two growers in each village are making proper, oak-aged, complex and reasonably-concentrated wines which will develop well in bottle.

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The Mâconnais is currently perhaps Burgundy’s most dynamic region. In the past only Pouilly-Fuissé – source of rich and ripe white wines – stood out from the crowd, but not only are such satellite appellations as Pouilly-Vinzelles and the newly-created (ie in 1998) Viré-Clessé coming alive, but a new generation of growers are also now producing some excellent Mâcon Villages.

These wines used to be cheap and simple, rarely lasting more than a year or two after the vintage, but now one or two growers in each village are making proper, oak-aged, complex and reasonably-concentrated wines which will develop well in bottle.

A blend from a number of excellent vineyard sites in the villages of Chaintré and Vergisson, we have worked again with the renowned “wizard of the Mâconnais” Olivier Merlin to create this benchmark Pouilly-Fuissé. Generous stone-fruit ¬flavours combine with a saline minerality and toasty oak notes to give a poised and restrained white Burgundy, one which will pair beautifully with seafood risotto.Adam Bruntlett, Win Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd

There is plenty of fresh citrus and stone fruit here. Jean-Michel favours used oak for this cuvée, which adds texture and a subtle buttery note to the palate. A great introduction to the charms of the Mâconnais.

The vines here are relatively young, having mostly been planted since Olivier and Corinne set up the domaine in the late 1980s. This youthful vigour gives the wine an impressive freshness and fruitforward approachability. Fermented and raised entirely in tank, this shows the purity and vibrancy of Chardonnay, with a pleasant citrus bitterness on the finish. Drink 2018-2020.Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

The 2015 Mâcon-Prissé debuted in 2014 and Dominique Lafon told me that it was originally intended to be blended into the Mâcon Villages. It has a sharp, easygoing orange zest-scented bouquet that feels a little constricted at the moment. The palate is balanced with crisp acidity, moderate depth and a tang of orange rind on the short finish. I suspect that there will be better to come.Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate (summer 2017)

As discussed earlier, one should never underestimate the ability of this wine to age. It sees between 10 and 15 percent new oak during the élevage, which serves to add a touch of complexity and breadth to the vibrant citrus fruit. For such a humble wine, there is excellent concentration and a focused, mineral purity which shines through. Drink 2019-2022.Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

The nose is downright flamboyant with aromas including peach and – as Olivier rightly points out – tangerine, as well as a well-judged dose of toasty oak. The palate is at once ripe and voluminous yet fresh. Best of all is the long, salty finish, which seems to be a hallmark of Olivier’s 2016s.

From a cool, four-hectare parcel facing due east at 350 metres above sea level, this sits at the taut, mineral end of the spectrum of styles produced by the domaine. At present, it’s fairly discreet on the nose, with an appealing hint of reduction alongside aromas of lime and grapefruit. The palate is crisp and saline, and suggests this wine will reward cellaring for five years or more. Aged for eight months in an array of large (600L+) oak casks.

Two-thirds raised in foudre with the remainder in large barrels, this is a standout cuvée in warmer vintages such as 2017. There is gorgeous stone-fruit on the nose and palate, along with sizzling energy and tension. The finish has a pleasant citrus bitterness and a touch of toast. Drink 2019-2022.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

From 55-year-old vines with a high proportion of Chardonnay Muscaté, there is a floral ripeness to the bouquet which leads seamlessly to the broad and open palate. Generous and suave, with just the right amount of restraining acidity, this wine flirts with hedonism before tightening up to give a nod to an underlying seriousness. Drink 2019-2022.Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

Primrose in colour, this has an immediately pleasing, floral nose. With lively, generous fruit, there is plenty of energy here; very good weight at the back of the palate and a perfectly judged fruit- acid balance, leading to a fine quality finish. Drink 2019-2022.Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier, who normally picks after his neighbours, was out harvesting before them this year, starting at the end of August. The hot, dry wind in that period really concentrated both the sugars and the acidity in the grapes. Everything ripened rapidly so Olivier made sure to privilege his best terroirs, and completed the harvest in five fewer days than usual.

The fruit is mostly from 75- to 80-year-old vines in the village of Fuissé. These south-facing plots are chalky but also reach high temperatures in the summer. The wine is broad-shouldered and powerful, yet with spine-tingling acidity. Packed with ripe peach, apricot and a flinty mineral feel, this is weighty without being clumsy. Drink 2020-2024.Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

With freshness atypical for St Véran, the nose is inviting with plenty of white stone fruit. This follows through onto the palate alongside intense, crisp acidity which builds to give a clean finish. Drink 2018-2022.Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Grandfather Bret bought this property in Vinzelles in 1947. In 2000 Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret took their vineyards out of the local co-operative and established Domaine de la Soufrandière with four hectares of vines in Pouilly-Vinzelles. They also have a négociant business, Bret Brothers. Their vines are, mostly, on a perfectly situated eastfacing slope of Vinzelles called Les Quarts, on Bajocian limestone with a high silica/quartz content. They are organic and biodynamic. The Bret brothers dub 2016 a “vigneron’s vintage”, which is to say that the key was to be in the vines. The hail on 13th April did significant damage but hard work in the vineyards (spraying biodynamic treatments from a backpack) paid off and ensured quality fruit. The Brets have added new vineyards in St Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé to the Soufrandière domaine, thus the whole range we buy is now from estate-grown fruit.

This comes from two parcels of 60-year-old vines in cooler sites in Vergisson. Having been hit by hail, the yield here was a modest 35hl/ha, adding an extra layer of concentration. It does not, however, lack freshness. This fine-boned wine is defined by its acidity and gorgeous orange-blossom aromas. Drink 2020-2026.Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

The Maranches vineyard has a significant proportion of Chardonnay Muscaté, a variety which adds a floral note. This wine displays a seductive perfume of honeysuckle and apricot. It’s peachy and generous on the palate, yet with cleansing acidity on the finish. Drink 2018-2021.Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

This 2.6-hectare walled vineyard is situated in the village of Chardonnay, in northern Mâcon. It was the first vineyard to be picked to preserve elegance and freshness. It’s a wine which always displays ripe, sunny fruit thanks to its south-facing exposition, but which has excellent tension and freshness thanks to the limestone bedrock. This year it is suave and elegant with lemongrass notes. Drink 2018-2021.Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

The Maranches vineyard has a significant proportion of old Chardonnay Muscaté vines, a variety which provides a floral note to the fruit. This gives a perfume to the nose and a spicy, peachy feel to the palate, while the old vines resisted the drought stress and provide a balancing tension. Drink 2019-2022.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

The warmest part of this early-ripening vineyard was the second to be picked, to preserve freshness. The nose has a charming oyster-shell reduction reminiscent of Chablis, a mineral thread which runs through the wine. There is good fruit weight and a precise finish, very elegant. Drink 2019-2022.

Two-thirds of this is raised in demi-muids, one-third in a small foudre. This really shines in 2017, seemingly unaffected by the vintage and – as always – giving a tangy, nervy and mineral expression of the Mâconnais. With remarkable freshness and precision, it’s very long too. Drink 2020-2025.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

This wine includes a new parcel which came as part of a deal with the Bret Brothers to jointly manage another estate. These old vines at higher altitude give the wine more freshness and complexity. The nose is opulent and expressive with white flowers. The palate has some rich orange fruit, but there is plenty of tension which keeps things balanced. Drink 2020-2025.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

In 2017 this vineyard was harvested on seven different dates to ensure optimum ripeness. The nose has a touch of the exotic, but with more restraint than in the past. The palate has a salty freshness running through, with saline, iodine notes accompanying the powerful structure and a chewy finish with plenty of dry extract. Dominique thinks it’s the best Viré he has made. Drink 2020-2026.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

Raised in a mixture of foudres and demi-muids, this is quite a new cuvée for Lafon (the first vintage was 2014). This wine is a blend of two south-facing parcels and one north-facing plot. There is real ripeness to this wine, with notes of orange blossom on the nose, along with a touch of smoky bacon. The palate is rounded and exuberant, with orange peel flavours; the firm, mineral core keeps the ripeness in check. Drink 2019-2023.Adam Bruntlett, Brugundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

The name “Cras” comes from the word “Craie”, which translates directly as chalk or limestone. It’s therefore no surprise that there is a high active limestone content in the soil in this vineyard. This combined with the southwest exposition of the vineyard, gives wine which is a harmonious balance of ripe stone fruit and chalky mineral backbone. The 10 to 15 percent new oak is seamlessly integrated. Drink 2020-2025.Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

A faint touch of reduction on the nose adds complexity here, while the palate has crisp pear notes and vibrant energy. There is just a touch of phenolic grip on the finish, extending its length. Drink 2020-2025.Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Grandfather Bret bought this property in Vinzelles in 1947. In 2000 Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret took their vineyards out of the local co-operative and established Domaine de la Soufrandière with four hectares of vines in Pouilly-Vinzelles. They also have a négociant business, Bret Brothers. Their vines are, mostly, on a perfectly situated eastfacing slope of Vinzelles called Les Quarts, on Bajocian limestone with a high silica/quartz content. They are organic and biodynamic. The Bret brothers dub 2016 a “vigneron’s vintage”, which is to say that the key was to be in the vines. The hail on 13th April did significant damage but hard work in the vineyards (spraying biodynamic treatments from a backpack) paid off and ensured quality fruit. The Brets have added new vineyards in St Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé to the Soufrandière domaine, thus the whole range we buy is now from estate-grown fruit.

Coming from 60-year-old-plus vines, this was harvested not overly late in order to avoid the ultraripe, honeyed style of Viré-Clessé. Indeed, the nose is bright and balanced. On the palate there is yellow fruit – a huge volume of it – yet with a crisp, crunchy finish.

The 2014 wines were all bottled just before the 2015 harvest using Diam10 corks, and the crus – such as Viré-Clessé – have a slightly different label (effectively the same as those for the other Mâconnais wines but with the colours inverted). Dominique thinks that 2014 is not only an excellent vintage, but also remarkably consistent for every part of the Mâconnais. The entire range is a joy this year.

The Vieilles Vignes cuvée was formerly known as Terroir de Fuissé. This is the heartland of Pouilly- Fuissé, delivering the richest wines of the appellation – as this bottling shows. It has lovely weight, with classical, dense white fruit, fine balancing acidity and a succulent finish.

Olivier concurs with the view that 2014 is a top vintage for white wines. The weather was good throughout the harvest, so he was able to pick each vineyard at a time of his choosing. There has also been some evolution within the range, with the introduction of an excellent new cuvée, Pouilly-Fuissé, Les Chevrières.

Fine, bright, pale yellow, the rich fruit is enlivened by a touch of baked apples. This is fairly powerful by Mâcon standards but has the necessary acidity to retain freshness. Drink 2017-2019.Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier, who normally picks after his neighbours, was out harvesting before them this year, starting at the end of August. The hot, dry wind in that period really concentrated both the sugars and the acidity in the grapes. Everything ripened rapidly so Olivier made sure to privilege his best terroirs, and completed the harvest in five fewer days than usual.

Caroline Gon (winemaker at the domaine) is delighted with her second vintage of St Véran. As she points out, the Montchanin vineyard faces due south and its wines can be prone to corpulence, so timely harvesting is essential: the pickers descended on August 28th in 2015. At present, this shows more than a little reduction, but there are lashings of ripe white fruit beneath. On the palate, a streak of acidity provides the tension to match its gorgeous, rich texture. Enjoy now and over the next five years.Will Heslop - Wine Buyer

Pale lemon in colour, this has a fine, elegant, floral nose, immediately classy. The fruit stretches out beautifully across the mid-palate, remaining fresh all the way through, with perfect poise and no sign of the heat of the year. Drink 2019-2022.Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier Merlin chose to harvest the Clos des Quarts before his own vines, on 29th and 30th August, starting each day at dawn and finishing at lunchtime so as not to pick during the heat of the day. As the note shows, this policy has paid off. Yields were acceptable but the fine late summer weather has concentrated the juice admirably.