But New Manchester Joint Offers All The Favs

Manchester's new barbecue restaurant traces its roots back to the mid-1990s at a University of Connecticut fraternity. That's when Matt Runko and Joe Micoletti met as members of Lambda Chi Alpha, where Micoletti would host pig roasts for the brothers in their house's backyard.

About 15 years later, the friends, now business partners, sought a memorable name for their new downtown barbecue joint. Micoletti's wife suggested "Rockhouse," an homage to the fraternity house's nickname for its stone exterior.

Rockhouse BBQ & Wings opened in early July, replacing Glazier's Corset and Uniform Shop and bringing a new cuisine to the town's restaurant-heavy Main Street. The 1,200 square-foot space turns out all kinds of carnivorous thrills, with dry-rubbed meats cooked low-and-slow in a hickory wood-burning smoker for at least 12 hours.

While the barbecue-crazy areas of the country boast their own regional styles – Texas, Kansas City, Memphis – Micoletti says his style is a hybrid of several.

"There's a Texas influence on the ribs; a Carolina influence on the pork," he said. "But it's a mix of what I've tried over the years, I've taken things that I've liked here and there, and trial and error."

The meat lineup includes classic smoked brisket, pulled pork bathed in a mustard-based sauce, baby back ribs and smoked chicken sold in half and whole portions. Sausage also gets the smoke treatment, available as single links or in a grinder with peppers, onions and cheese. All of the meats are sourced from Bogner's, right in Manchester.

And for the truly gutsy pork lovers, there's the gluttonous Bacon Blast: ground sausage and bacon wrapped in thick slices of bacon, smoked and sliced – served as individual pieces or as sliders on potato buns.

"It's not something for everyone," Runko said. "But if you really like bacon, it's delicious."

At lunchtime, sandwiches ($7.49 to $8.99) dominate sales, with a choice of meats piled onto a hard roll. Salads are available for those seeking lighter fare. Barbecue dinners and combo platters ($10.99 to $19.99) come with two housemade sides (baked macaroni and cheese, baked beans, potato salad, macaroni salad, hand-cut fries) and cornbread.

Wings are another big seller, with a choice of bone-in or boneless chicken and a dozen sauces ranging from mild buffalo to teriyaki. They're sold in increments of 6 to 100 ($5.99 to $64.99) for the boned wings and by the half-pound ($6.99 - up to $63.99 for 5 pounds) for the tenders.

The restaurant is the first venture for the two partners, who stayed close friends after college. Runko moved to Bangor, Maine, where he worked for FedEx. Looking for a career change, he told Micoletti he'd thought about opening a restaurant franchise in the city. Micoletti convinced him to move back to Connecticut and start a business there.

Runko brings management experience to the table and handles day-to-day operations. Micoletti, the longtime hobby chef and barbecue enthusiast, designed the menu and oversees the recipes and consistency of the food — while keeping his full-time insurance job. "Sleep is at a premium," he said, especially with a newborn at home.

A solid crew helps the two partners balance the new business and its long hours, Runko said. "They're just great people. Trustworthy, on-time, and really want the place to survive. I couldn't ask for anything more…our core group has just been spot-on."

While Runko admits that barbecue is more of a culinary religion in the South, he thinks the cuisine is growing in popularity up North, thanks to an interest in food and travel TV shows. Customers have even come in and quizzed him on particulars of Rockhouse's barbecue style.

"There's not a lot of barbecue in the Northeast in general," he said. "But it's becoming more common."

>>Rockhouse BBQ & Wings is at 631 Main St., in Manchester. It's open from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday. The restaurant offers free delivery in Manchester. Information: 860-643-4545; rockhousebbq.com.

Small Bites

>>As part of the upcoming "Month of Discovery" at Fleming's Steakhouse and Wine Bar, the restaurant hosts a series of weekly wine tastings each Friday in September. Guests will taste and compare 8 to 10 wines from "rival" regions. Each tasting begins at 5:30 p.m. Cost is $25, plus tax and gratuity. Fleming's is at 44 S. Main St., in West Hartford. Information: 860-676-9463; flemingssteakhouse.com.