Nobody's addressed the main thrust of this question: Cleaning off sand as opposed to normal road gunk. @deemar is saying that there's nothing different to be done, just a normal thorough cleaning. Am I on target?
–
Neil FeinOct 11 '10 at 4:57

The only difference I would see is that sand, specifically, can really wear out the chain and the drive train so extra care should be taken when cleaning. I like to use compressed air and ensure all chain rings etc... are cleaned properly.
–
tplunketOct 12 '10 at 12:57

Best thing for cleaning sand off a chain would be a hose. Failing that, a water bottle.
–
Daniel R HicksJul 16 '12 at 11:37

8 Answers
8

You can use a spray bottle with diluted degreaser to spray down the chain and wipe it with an old towel to get most of the dirt off; or if it's really sandy or muddy you can use regular soap and water and a sponge. Then clean and lube the chain the way you normally would.

After using several different plastic mechanical chain cleaners my favorite method is also one of the cheapest. I use a small can, like a soup or a tomato sauce can, put a little degreaser in it and clean the chain with an old toothbrush.

Using the bottle is okay, but stay away from using gasoline, kerosene, paint thinner or other harsh liquids. These will penetrate deeply into the links and will displace the lube you try to reapply, as well as creating a significant fire hazard. Some people like to use diesel fuel which is okay. In my opinion, I'd stick to a quality degreaser product.

I've used the chain cleaning machines, and while they do seem funny, they do tend to do a pretty good job at it. I've used this to clean off dirt, metal shavings, and some pretty serious road grime with great success.

I would go about this as I would my regular chain cleaning with a bit of a variation.

I would grab a clean rag and apply degreaser onto it. With the chain on large ring/small cog grab the lower portion of the chain with the rag (making sure the chain is contacting the degreaser) and then spin the crank backwards running the chain through the rag. As other answers have indicated this would accomplish removing the material which is holding the sand to the chain (and removing the sand from the outer plates).

Having done that I would then be sure to wipe down the pulleys. A small but important detail.

With the sand removed from the outside plates grab the air hose and (in a well ventilated room w/ a mask of some sort on for safety) position a garbage can below the chain. While moving the chain backwards you blow the compressed air down through the lower chain (blowing the air from the chain stay down through the chain) removing the grit that is on the inner portion of the chain.

Take the wheel out of the bike and clean the cassette thoroughly otherwise ... pointless endeavor. Remove the chain from the chain rings and wipe these down as well.

Typically I will then repeat the first step of wiping down the external portion of the chain with a rag/degreaser combo.

Lubricate the chain and you are done. You have removed the schmutz from the chain. Haha.

This is a toned down version of the answer I gave for a similar question with the added step of the compressed air. I do realize that not everyone has a compressor sitting around but, if you do, indispensable tool!

Since sand is "gritty", you should spend extra time making sure you have absolutely removed every bit of sand from the chain links so you get better wear from your chain and gears! You can do either a "on the bike cleaning" and lubrication or a complete removal of the chain to clean and lubricate it. If you continually ride in this type of environment, a complete removal/lubrication would be best. Here are the two different methods.

Method one:
On-Bike Cleaning
Before each ride, look at the entire chain by standing to the side of your bike and lifting the rear wheel off the ground. Using your free hand, rotate the closest pedal slowly backward, inspecting the individual chain links for dirt buildup, rust and/or tight links (links that do not bend easily as they pass through the rear derailleur). Check for adequate lubrication by listening for squeaks while riding. If you find either condition, your chain needs at least a spot-cleaning.
To spot-clean the chain while it's still installed on your bike, simply brush out the links with a firm brush (toothbrushes work well) and relubricate the links from time to time with a chain lubricant. Remember to wipe off excess lubricant with a clean, dry rag so that it doesn't pick up new dirt. Over-lubricating can cause as many problems as under-lubricating.

Method two:
Off-Bike Cleaning
Every few months or so (more often for mountain bikes), completely remove your chain (using a chain-removal tool), brush it well and completely immerse it in a chain solvent to get rid of built-up grime that brushing can't remove. Let the chain soak until most of the dirt has been freed from the links and bushings. Dry the entire chain using a clean rag. Make sure that the solvent has completely evaporated, then relubricate the chain and re-install.

Remember to use a recommended lubricant on the chain, and follow the directions for applying and removing excess lubricant. Just remember...WD-40 IS NOT a lubricant!

If the chain is not very dirty, just clean it off quickly with a rag and see if it helps first.

Chain cleaning machines work passably well and save some time over manual chain cleaning methods. So if you find yourself having to clean your chain often (MTBing in mud, typically) it's worth it to invest in one.

Alternate method is to take the chain off, put it into a plastic container with some chain cleaning fluid or just plain old unleaded, and shake vigorously for 10 minutes. Save the fluid/petrol for future use, the old grease and sand will fall to the bottom and whatever's left above can be used again.

If you use either of the last two methods, you have to apply grease to the chain again.

I've never heard of using gasoline; I always use a dilute citrus degreaser.
–
Neil FeinOct 11 '10 at 1:43

1

I strongly advocate NEVER using gasoline as a degreaser. It has high 'flash' flammability as well as high contact and inhalation toxicity. The risk isn't worth it. Spend the extra dollar on a nice citrus degreaser.
–
Gary.Ray♦Oct 11 '10 at 3:28

The main reasons I use citrus degreaser: It's available in my local auto parts store inexpensively, and it also has a nice smell. Well, yeah, okay, not a horrible smell.
–
Neil FeinOct 11 '10 at 4:56

People often use diesel or kerosene over gasoline (both have a much lower volatility than gasoline)... however, both are toxic and are more difficult to dispose (and cost nearly as much as a citrus degreaser).
–
WTHarperJul 17 '12 at 16:06

I have used Dawn diswasher liquid for cleaning oil and grease off of many things, including my bike's gears. Just remember to use a good clean lube when it's all dry. I use a small bottle brush to get between the gears in the cassette. Most auto parts stores carry small brushes or the grocery store for cleaning baby bottles. After all dont we all 'baby' our bikes???

You can water and soap or use dish washing liquid. After spraying water don't let it dry. Use gasoline and toothbrush or paint brush. Gasoline easily evaporates and it helps the chain, crank, and cog from rust. Gasoline can also eliminate oil and grease from chain and cog. Hope it will help lot a mtb rider.