The toggles switch is just in the acc line that triggers when the comp comes on. If switch is on = normal operation, switch off = comp doesn't start. The other switch is just hooked to the power switch on the computer.

10-31-2005, 11:49 PM

the_realscott

1 Attachment(s)

Hi all!

This is an interesting thread, and one that I'd like to use if possible to make a cheap-o software monitored PC shutdown and a timed forced shutdown. So I'd like it to send a signal to the comuputer asking it to shut down, using the serial port as people have discussed, but also have a timed shutdown on the power inverter, so after say 1.5minutes it will cut off the power and completely turn off everything.

So having read what I can find in this and other threads, does this look OK? It seems OK by my (extremely limited, high-school level!) electronics knowledge.

Can anyone go over it and see if there's anything wrong?

Cheers,

Scott.

11-01-2005, 08:50 PM

the_realscott

Anyone?

11-01-2005, 09:24 PM

vettejock99

FWIW, I'd love to know the answer as well.

11-01-2005, 11:40 PM

the_realscott

Ok, well maybe I'll build it outside my car for a test-run and see how it goes. Maybe I'll blow somthing up (:

11-02-2005, 01:11 AM

lexanite

Quote:

Originally Posted by the_realscott

Hi all!

This is an interesting thread, and one that I'd like to use if possible to make a cheap-o software monitored PC shutdown and a timed forced shutdown. So I'd like it to send a signal to the comuputer asking it to shut down, using the serial port as people have discussed, but also have a timed shutdown on the power inverter, so after say 1.5minutes it will cut off the power and completely turn off everything.

So having read what I can find in this and other threads, does this look OK? It seems OK by my (extremely limited, high-school level!) electronics knowledge.

Can anyone go over it and see if there's anything wrong?

Cheers,

Scott.

Yes, there are some mistake with your schematic diagaram around the power relay (supply to the inverter).
Corrections:
1. Cut the wire which connect the tip3055 collector and the diode anode.
2. Cut the wire which connect the relay coil and the relay contact, keep the connection between diode cathode with the relay coil.
Now the relay coil pins only connect to the diode Anode and Cathode.
3. Wire the collector to diode cathode.
4. Wire the diode anode to batt +ve.

Or you can do it graphically.
Actually its only moving two lines in your drawing.
First, move the horizontal line connected to diode cathode up, to diode anode.
Second, move the horizontal line connected to the tip3055 collector down to diode cathode.
Confuse? ....... better use no 1234 above..

11-02-2005, 01:40 AM

Curiosity

I think I see what you see. The relay coil should be connected to the batt (+) and transistor (-) rather than after the relay contacts, otherwise it won't work unless the contacts are closed. Not sure about all the diodes and LEDs in line either. Seems like too much of a drop but too little would pop an LED?

11-02-2005, 06:22 AM

lexanite

You are right. I suppose the two LED can be omited, replace with wire link, replace the 470K resistor with 470 ohm, and 9.2K with 1K. The left 1N914 replace with 1N4002.
If an LED indicator still required, a 1K2 resistor in series with a LED can be paralleled to the power relay coil. Suppose somebody can calculate more accuratelly if have the tip3055 data, also the relay.

11-02-2005, 09:53 AM

vettejock99

Quote:

Originally Posted by lexanite

You are right. I suppose the two LED can be omited, replace with wire link, replace the 470K resistor with 470 ohm, and 9.2K with 1K. The left 1N914 replace with 1N4002.
If an LED indicator still required, a 1K2 resistor in series with a LED can be paralleled to the power relay coil. Suppose somebody can calculate more accuratelly if have the tip3055 data, also the relay.