Location

Protection

The third bolt, the one that protects the crux moves, had a spinning loose nut on it today, May 31, 2014. My partner hand-tightened it when she rappelled. It would be good to bring up a tool to tighten it with.

Also, consensus here on MP seems to be that the crux move on this route is harder than on Ten-ish Ooze, and I agree. Probably both 10b.

If you show up and the 5.9 is occupied, resist the temptation to warm up on this climb. Unless you know the beta well, you'll get pumped trying to figure out how to traverse far right to follow the flake to the chains. There's so many other high quality routes here that this one just isn't worth the time unless there's absolutely nothing else open.

Climbers were struggling on this one all day while we were there, with many trying to take the 10c (left route after second bolt) and transfer over, with little luck. I only safely sent it by knowing the beta, which still barely makes the route enjoyable.