Food fads come and go. Some are good -- hello, Cronut! Some are everlasting -- bacon on everything! And some are just WTF -- flavored infused foams? Why, Ferran Adria, why? The latest craze sweeping across the country falls squarely into the last category. Yes, I mean “bone broth.”

In an essay response on how, when, and why she fell in love with grilling, Eatocracy managing editor Kat Kinsman expounded upon why exactly that Bon Appetit manly grilling guide for men ruffled her feathers quite so much. After a grill-less suburban childhood, a bout of vegetarianism, and living in a fifth floor walk-up New York City apartment (ie., a grilling wasteland), Kat writes:

“I regret the two and a half decades I spent thinking that somehow grilling was off-limits to me, for reasons of gender, locale, dietary restrictions or budget. I suppose that’s what upset me about that dude-centric article: the notion that any cooking method would be the domain of any particular group, and that some young woman might read it and assume that her father, brother, uncle, boyfriend, guy pal or any random fellow might somehow be better equipped for the task.

So far as I’m concerned, the more hands on spatulas, the more tasty grilled food there will be for all of us to eat. Can’t we all just grill along?”

Bonus: there’s a killer anecdote about a grill-savvy drag queen in there. It’s a must-read. You can check out Kat’s essay in its entirety here.