This is a discussion on SheRa within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by 11blackwrx
lol i think the spt is nice but far too quiet for me, i like crazy ...

I'm a cop magnet everywhere I go, so northern Virginia doesn't seem much different, but they are VERY strict about tint. Got a ticket in my WRX for tint, and a week later got a ticket in my wife's GTi for the same thing!

Funny story about the exhaust, I was pulled over twice in 20ft recently. I got pulled over for going faster than a cop. He didn't know how fast I was going, but he said he was speeding and I was pulling away so I must've been going faster. I say optical illusion Anyway, he let me off with a warning, which never happens, only to flip his lights back on right when I pulled out to give me **** about my exhaust. I had to show him my original window sticker, which says "SPT performance exhaust" thank God, and the "SPT" on the side of the exhaust tips.

Edit: And no, I'm not one of those guys who acts like a **** when I get pulled over.

A 20G is a 45lb/min turbo. At this flow rate, the 90 degree bend in the intake will start to become a restriction. The 20G-XT (now available from Blouch) is a 49lb/min turbo, and this effect is further exacerbated. A rotated kit will help to reduce your restriction, and the Speed Density fueling will assist in improving the consistency of your fueling.

A 20G is a 45lb/min turbo. At this flow rate, the 90 degree bend in the intake will start to become a restriction. The 20G-XT (now available from Blouch) is a 49lb/min turbo, and this effect is further exacerbated. A rotated kit will help to reduce your restriction, and the Speed Density fueling will assist in improving the consistency of your fueling.

I'd agree with that in a perfect world. I still think a used Dom1.5XTR or such would make a decent upgrade (i.e. cost effective) before going with a full rotated setup. Ideal? Nah. Still, that's a huge jump in cost and initial complexity when you go to a rotated setup.

Nice thing about a rotated setup cost wise though... you have a much broader selection of turbos at that point - and I wouldn't have a problem going with a cheaper journal bearing one to save some cash. Those fancy compressor wheels and high end bearings are pricey. I say that... but I'd probably end up with the fancy one anyhow.

Originally Posted by Trainrex

He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.

A 20G is a 45lb/min turbo. At this flow rate, the 90 degree bend in the intake will start to become a restriction. The 20G-XT (now available from Blouch) is a 49lb/min turbo, and this effect is further exacerbated. A rotated kit will help to reduce your restriction, and the Speed Density fueling will assist in improving the consistency of your fueling.

Nice perspective, thanks. I had just started thinking about that when installing my FMIC and realized how many 90s and 180s there are in the piping. I took fluid dynamics, and I know what those do. Sure, you have less pressure drop across the core, but less drop across the whole system? Doubtful.

Understanding that it would be restrictive at the higher flow rate, wouldn't it still make plenty more power than the stock turbo anyway? I'm not looking for 400+, just want to build a fun daily driver. I'd be perfectly happy with 360-380. And since e85 isn't an option in my area, I'm looking for a modest turbo upgrade. Cost is a factor, certainly no the main factor, but it is a factor nonetheless. And I don't know that a complex and expensive rotated setup would make a good ROI for what I'm trying to do. Then again, running 360-380 on a rotated setup would ensure it has plenty of room for growth in case I get bored down the road.

They are pricey for a reason. Compressor efficiency is greatly improved with a billet wheel, and they aren't all that pricey!

I agree. I think that decision needs to be done one a person by person basis. I'm a bit OCD and would want to spend the cash personally. I know many of the time attack cars out there run journal bearings, on the flip side actually. I know Element Tuning for example is a big pusher of journal bearings to save some cash. Most of what I've read literature wise pushes the ball bearings and the billet wheels though, as you've said.

Originally Posted by bbrock171

Understanding that it would be restrictive at the higher flow rate, wouldn't it still make plenty more power than the stock turbo anyway? I'm not looking for 400+, just want to build a fun daily driver. I'd be perfectly happy with 360-380. And since e85 isn't an option in my area, I'm looking for a modest turbo upgrade. Cost is a factor, certainly no the main factor, but it is a factor nonetheless. And I don't know that a complex and expensive rotated setup would make a good ROI for what I'm trying to do. Then again, running 360-380 on a rotated setup would ensure it has plenty of room for growth in case I get bored down the road.

Keep in mind, the rotated setup will make more power with an additional safety margin. All things being equal, the rotated setup is easier on the car as a whole. Same sort of idea as using a larger turbo at a lower psi.

To answer your question, the 20G turbos will definitely give you a nice boost over the stock turbo. The higher RPMs where the stock runs out of CFMs will continue to pull harder with any of the larger turbo selections out there.

Originally Posted by Trainrex

He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.

I agree. I think that decision needs to be done one a person by person basis. I'm a bit OCD and would want to spend the cash personally. I know many of the time attack cars out there run journal bearings, on the flip side actually. I know Element Tuning for example is a big pusher of journal bearings to save some cash. Most of what I've read literature wise pushes the ball bearings and the billet wheels though, as you've said.

Keep in mind, the rotated setup will make more power with an additional safety margin. All things being equal, the rotated setup is easier on the car as a whole. Same sort of idea as using a larger turbo at a lower psi.

To answer your question, the 20G turbos will definitely give you a nice boost over the stock turbo. The higher RPMs where the stock runs out of CFMs will continue to pull harder with any of the larger turbo selections out there.

I think the rotated setup is out of the question for me. I just remembered what a crappy area I live in (tint, exhaust, nitpicky cops) and have to get emissions inspections every year. If I can't quickly swap back to my stock downpipe for an emissions test that is a dealbreaker

I wouldn't get a Competition Clutch.. heard too many bad things about them. If it were me I would stick to ACT or Clutchmasters. I have personally ran four different clutches in my WRSs, and ACT has been the best of the bunch.

I wouldn't get a Competition Clutch.. heard too many bad things about them. If it were me I would stick to ACT or Clutchmasters. I have personally ran four different clutches in my WRSs, and ACT has been the best of the bunch.

Thanks, I'm still trying to decide. Leaning toward an ACT Street or 6 puck. Have you used these? Whatever I get I need it to hold up to normal usage with a stock location turbo upgrade and still be wife-friendly. No clutch dumps or high slippage - learned my lesson with the WRX.

I wouldn't get the six puck, engagement is harsh. I have the ACT HDSS right now and it feels great (some say the pedal is heavy, but it doesn't bother me) . . It would hold 20g power just fine. I'm about to upgrade it with the XT pressure plate for my newest build, so hopefully it doesn't start slipping.

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