TV suddenly turned off and won't turn on for more than nSec.

Model is Actually a SRT2232X 32" TV (CRT).
(I think the "X" is just a chassis color option).
I am having a problem similar to other TV's.
Last night there was a loud pop, then it shut off.
I tried to turn it on again, and got an arcing (clicking) sound with a bright vertical signal centered on the CRT.
It looked like an audio wave form, but running top to bottem, possibly retrace?
Today, same symptoms.
I purchased PDF Schematic online last night.
Main Board = BL6509F01012-1
I discharged the CRT, removed main board and visually inspected it for obvious damage. Only R552 has slight discoloration on the PCB. Q552 may be damaged (not sure).
I suspect Q571 (H-Out), Q572 (H-Drive), Q551 and/or Q552 (H-Control).
Anyone had a similar problem with this PCB and fixed it?

If I post the pdf service manual on the internet, could you check it and point me in the right direction?

The manual is a little vague, but has a great section on changing a jumper in the remote to turn it into a service remote! Lists test points and measurements, too.

I have 2 Sylvania TV's, so I tested it out.

You can change "color convergance", "pincushion", and other settings that are not available in the normal menu!If I post the pdf service manual on the internet, could you check it and point me in the right direction?
The manual is a little vague, but has a great section on changing a jumper in the remote to turn it into a service remote! Lists test points and measurements, too.
I have 2 Sylvania TV's, so I tested it out.
You can change "color convergance", "pincushion", and other settings that are not available in the normal menu!

Hello kd6aaj,
You are on the right track, a vertical line usually means that you lost horizontal deflection which is supplied by the horizontal/High voltage section.The thing that puzzles me is that you did not lose high voltage. Let me explain. In modern TVs the horizontal section uses scan rectification or a process similar to a switching power supply to convert a lower voltage tapped off of the hoizontal/HV section to provide B+ for the rest of the television. So if you lose your Horizontal voltage you lose your B+ also. So you will never see the vertical line because you low voltage power supply if off also.
Now I think your Q571 (H-Out), Q572 (H-Drive), Q551 and/or Q552 (H-Control) might be good.
However check them anyway. I would also advise you to check your yoke transformer for an open or shorted winding. This would cause you to lose deflection without losing high voltage.
You are definatly in the right section just add the deflection section to your scope of troubleshooting.

I am guessing that you do have a multiment and a oscilloscope which you will need to troubleshoot this.

First lets check for proper bias on the H-Drive transistor Q572 (Emitter(gnd)0v, Base .3v, Collector 22.0v. If these bias voltages are correct then Q572 is good, also check with the oscilloscope and see if a pulse waveform is present on the base of Q572 . if not (good bias and pluse) take Q572 out and test it with a transistor tester (there is another way by testing the reverse and forward bias of the diode junctions C-B, B-E, C-E, B-C, E-B, E-C but that would take too long to explain here properly), so the best way to test the transistor would be with a transistor checker.Do the same for Q571 Emitter (gnd) 0v, base (not gnd) but still 0v but use Oscilloscope to look for waveform 8(WF8)which is your horizontal drive. Then I want you to check DY551 (delecetion yoke pin 1 for waveform 9 WF9 which should be your horizontal delection pulse. If the pulse is not there at deflection yoke pin one then the one cause of this would be Q571 being open (not shorted)This is unlikely but not impossible.

Let me know how these readings go and I'll be able to tell you more once I know whow these look.I got it and I am going to give you some things to look for.
I am guessing that you do have a multiment and a oscilloscope which you will need to troubleshoot this.
First lets check for proper bias on the H-Drive transistor Q572 (Emitter(gnd)0v, Base .3v, Collector 22.0v. If these bias voltages are correct then Q572 is good, also check with the oscilloscope and see if a pulse waveform is present on the base of Q572 . if not (good bias and pluse) take Q572 out and test it with a transistor tester (there is another way by testing the reverse and forward bias of the diode junctions C-B, B-E, C-E, B-C, E-B, E-C but that would take too long to explain here properly), so the best way to test the transistor would be with a transistor checker.
Do the same for Q571 Emitter (gnd) 0v, base (not gnd) but still 0v but use Oscilloscope to look for waveform 8(WF8)which is your horizontal drive. Then I want you to check DY551 (delecetion yoke pin 1 for waveform 9 WF9 which should be your horizontal delection pulse. If the pulse is not there at deflection yoke pin one then the one cause of this would be Q571 being open (not shorted)This is unlikely but not impossible.
Let me know how these readings go and I'll be able to tell you more once I know whow these look.

Excuse the typos it's 3:01 am here and I need some sleep, remember let me know how those readings go. If you know how to do a ring test, do one on the Horizontal side of the deflection yoke to see if the yoke sustained any damage.Excuse the typos it's 3:01 am here and I need some sleep, remember let me know how those readings go. If you know how to do a ring test, do one on the Horizontal side of the deflection yoke to see if the yoke sustained any damage.

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Wow that's interesting, was there anybody watching your home while you were gone? There is a possibility that someone simply turned down the color level with the color control? Check that first. It's an unusual symptom. With composite video, component video or HDMI it's not usually possible to experience that defect. Since the color (chrominance signal) is usually inseparable from the luminance (black and white signal) I would check the color setting first. Other wise your set has become unable to detect that color signal... I bet it's a setting rather than a defect.

some of those chassis develope small cracks or cold solder joints
should be resoldered in several areas know to have that problem
transformer pin connectors-heatsink transistors/ic's have to be checked

Is this the actual model # AV-32F475?
If so, sounds like you have a shorted color filament within the picture tube. Could also be a video output going bad, causing intermittent shutdown when the CRT's beam current reached overload.

Same problem. The power button does not work. The volume and channel buttons turn the tv on. the tv then shuts its self off 15 seconds later. the red light blinks in second intervals while this happens.

If still under warranty or if you have no electronic repair experience you should take the set back to the shop or to a repair person. Some of the solutions described below can be dangerous, TV's are very hazardous to service. Even when plugged out, TV's can store very high voltages.
Generically speaking anything in the horiz deflection, hv development area will cause a no pix symptom, also a problem in the signal processor section, video river and output section as the crt/socket assembly.
I would also check the lopt transistor and probably the fuseable resistors around the lopt.