another question...I already have a Color DMD in my ATF. It seems ok. But I understand that there is an "update" for it. How do you know if you need it or is it necessary? Watched your videos on other things and have a better understanding for installation and the thumb drive thing....

another question...I already have a Color DMD in my ATF. It seems ok. But I understand that there is an "update" for it. How do you know if you need it or is it necessary? Watched your videos on other things and have a better understanding for installation and the thumb drive thing....

Like most things... if your display is working fine and you don't see any problems there's no need to update. On our SUPPORT page, we provide a list of all updates and what fixes or features were added.

As I told Randy yesterday (in another thread), I spent some hours today making a spacer to mount the colorDMD in my Star Trek LE.
So, here are some pictures and details:

This is the back of the original speaker panel:SpeakerPanel_Led1.JPG

This is the MDF that will serve as spacer. Its 18mm thick which will just cover the thickness of the speaker panel.
The size is 39cm x 18 cm. I could have made it smaller, but I think it's better this way as it fills up the entire height.SpeakerPanel_Spacer1.jpg

I measured and drilled the 2 holes for the studs that are welded to the speaker panel to make it fit inside, so i could mark the other holes and the DMD window:SpeakerPanel_Spacer2.JPG

On the bottom, you can see the 2 holes to accomodate the screws and nuts of the LE plaque.
On the top of the image you can see the clear plastic I made using the original one as a template:
I removed 3mm from the wood panel where the plastic is located. This is not absolutely necessary, but I didn't wanna make the spacer any thicker than absolutely necessary.SpeakerPanel_Spacer3.JPG

Here the spacer is placed in the speaker panel. As you can see, I made some holes (about 5mm deep, to accomodate for the nuts.SpeakerPanel_Spacer4.JPG

Some foam to protect the LCD screen and avoid light leakage:SpeakerPanel_Spacer6.JPG

The ColorDMD mounted. Currently, I just used some wood screws and spacers to compensate for the foam.
Maybe screws like used in the B/W to hold the DMD would be a better option...
Or, with a new mounting frame, you could use threaded studs instead of the nuts on the corners and attach the frame on the studs.
I attached the 2 cable holders to the speaker screws (insted of the DMD) and replaced the middle one with an adhesive one.SpeakerPanel_ColorDMD1.JPG

As you can see the LCD panel sticks out a little. No way to avoid this as it sits flush against the bottom of the backbox...SpeakerPanel_ColorDMD2.JPG

But as you can see here, this doesn't block the light of the backglass in any way:SpeakerPanel_ColorDMD8.JPG

Only problem is the alignment of the DMD image:SpeakerPanel_ColorDMD3.JPG

SpeakerPanel_ColorDMD5.JPG

Randy, I think this is where you come in. I think lowering the image by 3 'dots' (that is the classic DMD dots) would do the trick until you come up with a user adjustable position.

That's it for now. ColorDMD is properly mounted in my STLE. No cutting the studs, no drilling holes in the ColorDMD frame, all original screws and studs are used. All it took was a piece of wood and 4 spacers. And of course a custom made power cable.

Finally the Star Trek LE as it's supposed to look! Shame on Stern for putting in that UGLY Red DMD. Especially in the LE!
Hopefully we will can enjoy some day a full color DMD in the Star Trek. Hint...

Nice work tatanka1961, that was my option #2 using wood for the spacer, a lot more work unless you have the woodworking skills and equipment to pull it off. I am still leaning for option #1 using hex spacers and thicker foam to seal around the window. either way I figured the video frame would have to be adjusted to make it line up. I am almost ready to buy my ColorDMD and join the club. For now I have been working on lighting up the speakers with LED strips but I found out in the new 1.41 code release the speaker flashers also light the speakers solid as well as flash but not all the time but under control of the program. Wile this is great the speakers are still dimmer than I would like so I think I will add the LED strips and now might power them off the flasher circuit. The LED strips only add .5 amps and the driver transistor is rated at 40 amps @ 200 volts so it should not be a problem.christmas2013 025.JPGSTLE 013.JPG

Can you post a drawing of some type for your mdf spacer?
If you can; I'll generate a DXF and post it free for any person to use.
I'll also release shopbot files for cutting the spacer :D.

I'll try to make a drawing today and post it. I would have to take some more accurate measurements though. As I was making the spacer, I just took the actual speaker panel and plastic window as a template...

I'll try to make a drawing today and post it. I would have to take some more accurate measurements though. As I was making the spacer, I just took the actual speaker panel and plastic window as a template...

Ok, So here's a "quick and dirty" drawing with the measurements. Please note that I took the measurements as best I could, but I cannot guarantee they are 100% accurate.
Also, measures are metric...

As promised; here's a drawing based on the DXF file I created from tatanka1961's drawing:
In PDF form:http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/STLE_ColorDMD.pdf
Taranka, If you can confirm it looks correct to you and mark the holes where you placed the wood screws for the ColorDMD bracket; I can put those in the DXF drawing.
From there; I can provide a DXF for the clear bezel and the CNCed piece.

Very nice drawing there.

I do have some remarks though:
* The distance between the screws of the LE plaque: you put 120.396mm, while I measured 120.8mm
* I don't see the distance form the top of the spacer 17.4mm
* The vertical distance between the screws of the display: you put 118.366mm, while I measured 117mm
* You put 96mm as the height of the display hole I actually made it a little larger than the hole in the speaker panel. This way, if it's not completely accurate or aligned, it will not show. 98mm x 344mm
* You've drawn the holes for the LE plaque on the same side as the 6 holes for the display, while they are actually on opposite sides. A look at the pictures will probably make this clearer.
* The depth of the inlay ~3mm for the plastic bezel depends of course on the thickness of the plastic you are going to use...
* Maybe it would be advisable to make the holes for the screws 5mm instead of 4 to compensate for inaccuracies.
* I changed the wood screws for speaker studs (Like this http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=240). These can be found at most pinball stores. They are 369mm x 104mm apart. Lowest = 59mm from the bottom. This allowed me to use the 'old' mounting frame.ColorDMD_Studs.jpg

I'll look the drawing over again. it's proably right; the dimmention tool in CorelDraw sometimes calculates the distance wrong. This most-likely accounts for all "differences" you see. But will verify.

For the LE plaque holes; wouldn't it just be easier to drill a 13mm hole all the way thru the wood?
If I understand correctly; the holes are on the 3mm side not the back side where the colordmd mounts.

For the LE plaque holes; wouldn't it just be easier to drill a 13mm hole all the way thru the wood?
If I understand correctly; the holes are on the 3mm side not the back side where the colordmd mounts.

Yes, if you drill the 13 mm hole all the way through that would also work. As I made it, they are indeed on the side of the 3mm inlay.

<<* The distance between the screws of the LE plaque: you put 120.396mm, while I measured 120.8mm>>
Corrected.

<<* I don't see the distance form the top of the spacer 17.4mm>>
Was correct in drawing.

<<* The vertical distance between the screws of the display: you put 118.366mm, while I measured 117mm>>
Ah. Couldn't read that number so I measured on my machine. Fixed.

<<* You put 96mm as the height of the display hole I actually made it a little larger than the hole in the speaker panel. This way, if it's not completely accurate or aligned, it will not show. 98mm x 344mm>>
Corrected height.

<<* You've drawn the holes for the LE plaque on the same side as the 6 holes for the display, while they are actually on opposite sides. A look at the pictures will probably make this clearer.>>
Drilled thru wood. 13mm hole.

* The depth of the inlay ~3mm for the plastic bezel depends of course on the thickness of the plastic you are going to use...

<< Maybe it would be advisable to make the holes for the screws 5mm instead of 4 to compensate for inaccuracies.>>
Set to 5mm.

<<* I changed the wood screws for speaker studs (Like this http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=240). These can be found at most pinball stores. They are 369mm x 104mm apart. Lowest = 59mm from the bottom. This allowed me to use the 'old' mounting frame.>>
Pilot Holes added.

No commitments, No schedule... however, if tatanka1961 is ok with it; it'd be just as easy for me to make one as to make 20 or so. I need to source some MDF and the plastic for the clear bezel. In "theory"; I could do a whole sheet 4x9ft of these spacers if I can find a good MDF source and the time at Techshop.ws . Is there interest? Cost would depend on materials, time, etc.

No commitments, No schedule... however, if tatanka1961 is ok with it; it'd be just as easy for me to make one as to make 20 or so. I need to source some MDF and the plastic for the clear bezel. In "theory"; I could do a whole sheet 4x9ft of these spacers if I can find a good MDF source and the time at Techshop.ws . Is there interest? Cost would depend on materials, time, etc.

You might want to start a new thread for better visibility and to make it easier to track, but either way please count me in for a set. Thanks!

I still haven't decided which mounting system I want to use, the MDF wood or the threaded hex spacers.
The hex spacers would be simpler over all but would require drilling mounting holes in the DMD bracket. Using the wood panel you could simply use the stock holes already that's in the new DMD bracket but not everyone had access to a CNC machine but if you could make them I might go that route. As for the clear plexi I under stand Pinbits now has made one that should fit the new Stern metal DMD speaker panels which would be an option for anyone not willing to cut their own.http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=62&products_id=573
On a side note, I have already made my mod for adding blue LED light strips to the speakers so the Color DMD is next on the list.» YouTube video

I have to ask a "color dmd newb question".
For the games such as Addams Family or titles these color dmd's are available for, I assume someone had to go into the animation frame by frame and add the "color" information?
In other words, no matter if it fit the frame or not, if you plug a color dmd into a game like Star Trek, its simply not going to be in color like TAF is, correct?

I have to ask a "color dmd newb question".
For the games such as Addams Family or titles these color dmd's are available for, I assume someone had to go into the animation frame by frame and add the "color" information?
In other words, no matter if it fit the frame or not, if you plug a color dmd into a game like Star Trek, its simply not going to be in color like TAF is, correct?

I have to ask a "color dmd newb question".
For the games such as Addams Family or titles these color dmd's are available for, I assume someone had to go into the animation frame by frame and add the "color" information?
In other words, no matter if it fit the frame or not, if you plug a color dmd into a game like Star Trek, its simply not going to be in color like TAF is, correct?

No, but it will still offer some advantages over a regular or LED DMD, like the choice between 96 different colors and the HD upscaling. And obviously full color if and when it becomes available.

We now have our Color DMD mounting kit available on the website. Everything you need is in the kit (except the Color DMD and Display Shield). We have both clear, and blue available. The blue display shield pairs up nicely giving you excellent contrast at the cost of a somewhat dimmer overall display. We like the blue however it is quite a bit dimmer.

Hello All,
We now have our Color DMD mounting kit available on the website. Everything you need is in the kit (except the Color DMD and Display Shield). We have both clear, and blue available. The blue display shield pairs up nicely giving you excellent contrast at the cost of a somewhat dimmer overall display. We like the blue however it is quite a bit dimmer.http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_77&products_id=583
Thank you!

Looks great!
Can we see a video of it in dots v hi-res mode?
This is a must have mod for this game.
So, is anybody producing this in a kit, with everything needed plus instructions so that even I may be able to fit it?!

I have made today three Videos with all possible Video Styles of the Color DMD.
I am not an Video Expert and don't know which Freeware Program is the best to compressed the avi for smaller File Size for YouTube.
atm the file size is 2,2 GB with 10 Minutes Lenght with 720p.
Someone a tip for me for an good and working freeware Tool?

Did you get the clear or the blue cover? Which are people prefering? Seems like blue might be too bright so the blue cover would be a good idea? On second thought it might be best to order both. Eventually they will hopefully have a colorized version for ST, so the clear one will be needed...

I bought the blue Cover and i like it.
I have also a Color DMD installed at my Avatar with Clear Panel and there isn't a huge Difference.
The Contrast on the ST is a little bit better for the Black Background.

Managed to upload the Videos now.
Sorry for the Quality of my Camera which is not the best
Will get a better one the next Days
First Video with the Interlaced Mode which i personally prefer
» YouTube video
Second Video is with normal Dots
» YouTube video
Third Video is with full scale Mode
» YouTube video

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I like the dots the least.

Think I prefer the full scale mode as it looks more futuristic.

Is it possible to display using the color purple? Just curious what it would look like.

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