Car Talk: Carbon monoxide detector is best way to test for a leak

By TOM AND RAY MAGLIOZZI, SYNDICATED COLUMNISTS

Published 10:00 pm, Thursday, February 21, 2008

Dear Tom and Ray: I recently had my 1994 Toyota Camry XLE in for a front exhaust leak. The main symptom was a muffled noise coming from the front. After the repair, I still heard the noise, though not as bad. And call me crazy, but I feel lightheaded and dizzy, and I have a weird feeling in my throat. Could they have done something wrong with the repair and now carbon monoxide is leaking into my car? Is there a way to test for a carbon monoxide leak in the car? -- Kelly

Tom: Kelly, go to a hardware store with your windows rolled down and buy a carbon monoxide (CO) detector for your car.

Ray: For $20, you can get a battery-powered one. Put it in your car, let the car run for 10 minutes (without you in it), and then check the reading. I'm guessing you've got CO.

Tom: Carbon monoxide is deadly stuff, Kelly. It's also invisible, odorless and tasteless. So the only way to know whether it's present is with a CO detector, or via autopsy (we're assuming you prefer the former option).

Ray: The noise you were hearing was exhaust escaping, under pressure, from a cracked exhaust manifold under the hood. And it's certainly possible that your mechanic botched the job. He may have been wrong about where the leak was coming from, he could have replaced your manifold with a used one that was also cracked or he may just be a moron.

Tom: So get it back to him right away. Like today. Like now. And leave all the windows down when you drive it there. After he fixes it, test it for CO again -- right there at his shop, before you drive it away.

Ray: And when you're convinced that your car is completely CO-free, take the detector you bought and give it a new home in your bedroom, Kelly. And don't wait. Seriously.

Dear Tom and Ray: I have a problem I'm sure you can help me fix. The power steering on my 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon doesn't seem to work on cold mornings. The steering is very stiff until I reach the first traffic light on the way to work. Then it works fine. The dealership says the seals are fine and the pump is working OK. The belt is also OK, and the reservoir is full of fluid. This problem shows up only when it's below 40 degrees outside, and it gets bad below 30. This is a real safety hazard. Help! -- Bob

Tom: We think you have a bad steering rack, Bob.

Ray: Unfortunately, you have the classic symptoms. I still remember when the first car with these symptoms presented itself to us, about 1982. It was a GM X-body car, like a Chevy Citation.

Tom: And years later, about 14 zillion GM owners had new power-steering racks, at 600 bucks a pop. And wait 'til you see what it costs on a Volvo!

Ray: But before you panic and take out a home equity loan, have your Volvo mechanic check out the pump more thoroughly. The only way to really check the pump is to put a gauge on it and measure how much pressure it's putting out. So insist that your mechanic do that. And even if the pump seems to be OK, you might ask him to try a new one, anyway, since it's relatively inexpensive.

Tom: But if all else fails, start saving your pesos, Bob, because a new Volvo rack can get pretty expensive.