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Thursday, March 22, 2018

In the Market Report by Marilyn Kirschner

March Madness

There are a number of things that make me MAD. But I prefer not to dwell on the negative but rather focus on the positive side of things. These are some of the things that I am particularly ‘mad’ about at the moment:

‘Faux’ Real

All photos Vogue.com

More and more designers are foregoing real furs in favor of faux and while it has been increasingly hard to tell the real from faux, on the fall 2018 runway of Givenchy, now designed by Clare Waight Keller, the faux furs were especially fantastic and really appealing.

Dries Van Noten’s Patterned Boots

Two of the big stories on the runways of the fall winter 2018 ready-to-wear collections, which ended in Paris earlier in March, were boots and patterns. Dries Van Noten’s patterned boots, which sometimes matched, sometimes clashed with his Art Brut patterned ensembles, stood out.

Bad Hair Don’t Care!

With all the fabulous looking scarves, hoods, caps, fedoras, berets, balaclavas and hats shown on recent runways for day and for evening as at Saint Laurent, worrying about having a bad hair day (or spending hours at the hair salon) may be a thing of the past. In many cases, the headgear not only completely covered the hair, but practically obscured the face. FYI, Oh, and yes, I am also 'mad' about head to toe black, which has never looked better after so much color!

Demna Gvasalia’s Sweet Spot

After two seasons at the helm of Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia has finally got it together with a collection for the revered label that was perhaps his most normal, less exaggerated to date. The emphasis was on controlled volume and refined, razor sharp tailoring most often played out in classic menswear patterns. His use of high tech computer molded tailoring resulted in coats and jackets made of one layer of fabric and only two side seams (no darts, no construction). Pretty fabulous.

The Moncler Genius Project

The common nylon puffer is a ubiquitous unisex streetwear item and an indispensable one at that, thanks to the winter that absolutely refuses to go away. This season in Milan, Moncler took this standard fare item and elevated it with their Moncler Genius Project titled, “A Republic of Imagination”. Of the 7 installations, Valentino designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s museum worthy, dramatic, and evening appropriate versions truly stood out. Genius indeed.

Leopard

We can never get enough of leopard and this season, there will literally be something in leopard for everyone. It was not only used conventionally (handbags, boots, traditional belted coats included), but in more surprising, sportier ways like at R13.

Kara Bags

What is there not to love about a collection of minimal clutches, satchels, shoulder bags, belt bags, backpacks made in NYC (Chinatown to be exact), completely devoid of logos (logos shmogos) or obvious distracting hardware, that are smart, chic, simple, easy to use, of high quality, and well-priced to boot (most fall in the $275 - $395 range)? Most are made of polished cowhide leather but there are shearling versions as well. For more information, go to www.karastore.com

Bags That Match Coats

If you are going to carry a big roomy bag, it might as well match your coat and look fabulous as they did at Sies Marjan (in glossy patent) and Victoria Beckham for fall/winter 2018.

Vans Checkered Past (and present)

If you, like me, are a fan of Van’s iconic unisex checkerboard slip-ons in off white and black, but always wanted a version in bright white, you are now in luck with their updated mixed checkerboard iteration. And at $55, you can’t go wrong.

November Rain’s Stylish Rain Ponchos

Capacious capes and ponchos were all over recent runways, most notably at Ferragamo, Derek Lam, Givenchy, but you don’t have to wait months to get them; November Rain’s stylish ponchos are available right now. Designed in Australia, they are made using ecologically sound waterless printing methods, and thanks to heat sealed seams, are completely waterproof. Available in a number of solids and prints, they are one size fits all, $59.

LOOT: MAD About Jewelry

The Museum of Arts and Design’s annual and wildly popular exhibition and sale (www.madmuseum.org), now in its 18th edition,- has become known as THE ultimate 5 day pop up shop for contemporary artist-made jewelry representing more than 54 emerging and acclaimed international jewelry artists from 21 countries. It’s like a jewelry “League of Nations” right here on Columbus Circle.

Each year, the LOOT Award is presented to luminaries in the field of jewelry, including artists, collectors, and designers. This annual prize is in keeping with the long-standing commitment of the Museum of Arts and Design to presenting jewelry as an art form. This year they will honor writer, producer, and philanthropist Loreen Arbus, whose career achievements include becoming the first woman to head programming for a major television network; Carolee Lee, former CEO and founder of Carolee Designs and AccessCircles; and collectors Karen and Michael Rotenberg. The LOOT 2018 Opening Benefit will take place on Monday, April 16th from 4:30 to 8:00pm. The evening’s events include first access for patrons to meet the 2018 LOOT artists and acquire their designs, a cocktail hour and reception, as well as a dinner honoring the 2018 LOOT Award recipients. The dinner begins at 7:30pm.

Stuart Weitzman White Irises Loafer

I have to admit that I am obsessed with white shoes. In my opinion, they make everything, especially an all-black ensemble, look that much better. There are endless choices in every category but one shoe in particular, has really caught my eye:Stuart Weitzman’s Irises loafer, a modified mule with a holdover quarter, in white textured leather, with a crystal fringe embellishment and sculptural block heel, $498.

The Idiosyncratic, Exuberant Personal Style of Iris Apfel

Iris Apfel windows at Bergdorf Goodman

I dare even the most minimal amongst us to take a trip to Bergdorf Goodman, which is celebrating ‘All Things Iris’ through March 26th (smashing 5th Avenue windows included), and NOT be inspired to break out the color and pile on the accessories. The tireless, ageless fashion icon who has spent most of her life collecting everything from fashion and accessories to art and textiles, continues to inspire all age groups (she even has her own Barbie doll to prove it) and will be honored with the National Arts Club Medal of Honor for Fashion, on May 11.

You gotta love her wise, sage quotes on personal style which were taken from her new book, “Iris Apfel: Accidental Icon” and are posted throughout the store. Among my favorites:

“When you don’t dress like everyone else you don’t have to think like everyone else.”

“I don’t have any rules because I’d only be breaking them!”

“If you’re not RISKING you’re not LIVING.”

“You don’t find out who are unless you work at it.”

“Listen to your inner muse and Take a Chance.”

“Color can raise the dead.”

“You have to be INTERESTED to be INTERESTING.”

“Why do I wear such large glasses? The bigger to see you with my dear.”

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New York Market Reports

Marilyn Kirschner our editor-in-chief and former senior Market Editor of Harper's Bazaar for many years reports on the Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer New York collections for every season going back over 15 years. These kinds of reports are found no where else and are offered free to our readers. Additional past commentary was written for us by Bernadine Morris the former senior fashion writer of the New York Times.
Click here for the latest fall/winter 2018 report and links to all the other past reports..

About Me

Lookonline.com is the longest publishing online fashion site in the world. It was launched first as a BBS service in 1993 and has been on the Internet since December 1994. The DFR: Daily Fashion report is also the first fashion blog and was started in early 2002 as the site's main news page. Before launching the site, I was for many years a New York fashion photographer.