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Admirer Howard Ing calls Goga—the tiny restaurant named after San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge— "a no-frills establishment that's all about the food." In fact, the 20-seat French Concession eatery is so bare-bones that it doesn't even have a bathroom on its premises. But regulars don't mind, lauding the fact that chef Brad Turley is always in the kitchen (in his Hawaiian print shirt), turning out delicious Cali-Asian dishes like torched tuna sashimi and the lobster roll with green papaya salad.