Steamed mussels, a classic bistro staple, are a delectable treat that also happen to be practical, inexpensive, and fun. You don't need a special utensil to eat them; just use an empty shell as a pincer to extract the meat from open mussels. The version traditionally served in France is moules poulette, whereby the shellfish are steamed open in a silky broth of dry white wine, cream, shallots, leeks, and chives. You also can give mussels an Asian twist by preparing them in a curried broth of coconut milk that is spiked with cayenne pepper, ginger, and lemongrass. A spicy Spanish version incorporates chorizo, basil, and various peppers. All three options below are delicious, but whichever you choose, remember to serve it with a toasted baguette lavished with butter, because soaking up the broth is half the pleasure. And if there are any mussels left over—which I sincerely doubt—use them to fill an omelet for breakfast the next day.

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

To prepare the fresh mussels:

Discard any mussels that are cracked or open and will not close with a tap on the counter. Place them in a large container and cover with cold water for 20 minutes to filter out any sand. Lift the mussels from the water, leaving the sand behind. Remove the beards—the visible fibrous threads—by grasping them with a dry towel and pulling toward the hinges of the shells. Finally, scrub the mussels with a brush and rinse them in cold water before steaming. After cooking the shellfish, always discard any unopened shells.

What to Drink

Three versions of steamed mussels require three distinctly different wine selections, according to Daniel Johnnes, wine director of Daniel restaurants. "A white Burgundy would go well with the creaminess and smoothness of moules poulette," he explains, recommending the "elegant, understated" 2006 Domaine Matrot Meursault by the husband-and-wife vintners Pascale and Thierry Matrot ($38). The Granny Smith apple in the Asian curried mussels suggests a fruity-fresh German Riesling, namely Gunderloch's 2007 Riesling Kabinett Jean-Baptiste ($20). And the "heartiness and heat" of the Spanish-style mussels, Johnnes notes, call for "a wine with more body, more weight, and a warm character." His choice? Bodegas Muga Rioja Rosado 2007, a rosé that combines Grenache, Viura, and Tempranillo grapes ($10).