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King of Wines

19 January 2013

Spurrier's World: Decanter's globetrotting consultant editor gives a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world, top bottles to drink or keep, and why Royal Tokaji produces 'The King of Wines, the wine of kings' with its 2007 single vineyard wines.

The king of wines, the wine of kings

Such was the description Louis XIV gave to the wines of Tokaj, whose vineyards were classified into first and second growths in 1700, the first vineyard ranking until that of the Medoc in 1855. This classification still exists, and the Royal Tokaji Wine Company (RTWC) owns vineyards in four first growths, all of which were present, from the superb 2007 vintage, at a recent Berry Bros & Rudd tasting.

These golden-coloured, honeyed wines have great richness combined with a quince-like acidity that gives them terrific energy and staying power. All were six-puttonyos aszu wines, and all were beautifully concentrated.

My preference in ascending order was Betsek, Nyulazso and Szent Tamas, all at £65 for a 500ml bottle, and the extraordinary Yquem-like Mezes Maly (£85), whose 19 hectares are jointly owned by the RTWC and Decanter's Hugh Johnson, co-founder of the RTWC.