Tuesday, November 15, 2011

In review: Joynoelle's "The Caged Bird" Spring 2012 Collection

In lieu of a high-production runway show, Joy Teiken of Joynöelle presented her Spring 2012 collection in an intimate showcase at The Grand Café on Monday evening. With its limited capacity, the bistro was an unconventional choice, but the warmth and style of the venue served as a natural compliment to the collection.

Models wove the through the restaurant in cocktail dresses and evening gowns in a simple palette of black, ivory, brown and deep red. Teiken had drawn inspiration for the collection from "the caged bird," ornamenting garments in cascades of wispy feathers. In the evening's most literal moment, a delicate black cage pattern subtly echoed a windowpane plaid.

Several of the black and white looks veered perilously toward french maid territory, but Teiken exercised restraint before any of her work became costume. The designer knows her aesthetic and her audience, and she knows the right moment to pull back.

A selection of bridal gowns closed the show, including an incredibly detailed finale gown that earned frenzied whispers of approval from the audience. The look was classic Joynölle, vintage-inspired whimsy and fine detail. But above all, the elegantly constructed gown looked expensive, which is one of the highest compliments a designer can receive.

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