IMPLEMENTS,TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

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Transcript of IMPLEMENTS,TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

IMPLEMENTS.TOOLS & EQUIPMENT All of the instruments and accessories used in the practice of barbering are categorized as the implements,tools or equipment of the profession. Non-motorized items: combs,shears etc ,are referred to as implements. Electrically powered items; clippers,trimmers,etc, as tools; and anything from barber chairs to steam towel cabinets are considered to be EQUIPMENT. COMBS Combs are available in different styles ans sizes.The correct comb to use depends on the type of service to be performed and the preference of the barber. Combs are usually made of bone,plastic, or hard rubber. Since bone combs can be costly and plastic combs are not as durable as bone or rubber, MOST BARBERS PREFER COMBS MADE OF HARD RUBBER. The teeth of a comb may be fine or coarse.Fine toothed combs may be used for GENERAL COMBING PURPOSES, while wide-toothed combs can be used for detangling or chemical processing.In either case, it is important that the teeth have rounded ends to avoid scratching or irritating a client's scalp. All purpose comb may be used for general hair cutting and styling. A taper comb is used for cutting or trimming hair in those areas where a gradual blending of the hair is required.The tapered end is especially useful for trimming mustaches,tapering necklines, and blending around the ears. A flat handle comb work best to achieve a flat-top style. WIDE TOOTHED COMBS CAN BE USED IN HAIRSTYLE FINISHING OR TO SPREAD RELAXER CREAMS,DETANGLE HAIR, OR COMB THROUG CURLY HAIR. THE TAIL COMB IS THE BEST CHOICE FOR SECTIONING LONG HAIR OR WHEN MAKING PARTINGS TO WRAP ON PERM RODS OR ROLLERS. THE PICK OR AFRO COMB IS USUALLY THE MOST EFFICIENT COMB FOR COMBING THROUGH TIGHT CURL PATTERNS OR PERMANENT WAVED HAIR. STYLING BRUSHESAre used to smooth,wave. or add fullness to hair or to stimulate the scalp.The choice of bristle texture,spacing, and material will depend on the hairstyle to be achieved.Most hairbrushes are manufactured with plastic,wood, or metal bases and contain either natural or artificial bristles. Brushes are cleaned and disinfected in the same manner as combs. HAIRCUTTING SHEARS There are two types of shears :The French style,which has a brace(finger rest)for the little finger. And the German type;which does notinclude the finger rest. Haircutting shears are composed of two blades;ONE movable and the other a stationary or still blade.These blades are fastened with a tension screw that acts as a pivot.The other main parts of the shears are the points,cutting edges,shanks,finger grip,finger rest and thumb grip. THE SET OF THE SHEARS REFERS TO THE ANGLE OF THE BLADE FROM ITS TIP TO BACK,AND THE ALIGNMENT OF THE BLADES IN RELATION TO EACH OTHER.TENSION AFFECTS THE SET AND ALIGNMENT OF THE BLADES AND CAN BE ADJUSTED BY TURNING THE PIVOT SCREW. THINING SHEARS,ALSO CALLED BLENDING,TAPERING,OR TEXTURIZING SHEARS,ARE USED TO TAPER HAIR ENDS,REDUCE HAIR THICKNESS, OR CREATE SPECIAL TEXTURIZING EFFECTS. HOW TO CHECK THE TENSIONOF THE SHEARS.hold the shears horizontally by thethumb grip,with the thumb and index fingerof the left hand. Raise the finger grip(still blade)to an open position with the thumb and index finger of the right hand.Release the still blade.The still blade should drop 1/4 to 1/2 of the way closed before stopping.If the blades do not drop at all,the tension is too tight;if they closed completely,they are too loose STRAIGHT RAZORSAs the sharpest and closest cutting tool,razor are used for facial shaves,neck shaves,finish work around the sideburn and behind the ears. There are two types of straight razorsused in barbering;Conventional straight razorchangeable-blade straight razor TO PALM A RAZOR,CURL IN THE RINGFINGER AND LITTLE FINGER AROUND THE HANDLE.HOLD THE COMB BETWEEN THE THUMB,INDEX, AND MIDDLE FiNGERS. THE CONVENTIONAL STRAIGHT RAZORis composed of a hardened steel blade,attached to a handle made of hard rubber,plastic or bone. STRAIGHT RAZOR BALANCERefers to the weight and length of the blade relative to the handle. RAZOR TEMPER:Tempering the razor involves a special heat treatment included in the manufacturing process.When a razor is properly tempered,it acquires the degree of hardness require for a good cutting edge. RAZOR GRIND:the grind of a razor is the shape of the blade after it has been ground.there are 2 types: CONCAVE GRIND(Often referred to as thehollow ground)is available in full concave,one-half concave, and one quarter concave forms. WEDGE GRIND: is neither hollow nor concave.Both sides of the blade form a sharp angle at the extreme edge of the razor. RAZOR FINISH:the finish of a razor is the polish of its surface.may be plain,CROCUS(polished steel)or plated with nickel or silver.Crocus finish is more costly,it last longer and does not rust as easily as other finishes. THE SIZE OF THE RAZOR IS MEASURED BY THE LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE BLADE.THE WIDTH OF THE RAZOR IS MEASURED EITHER IN EIGHTHS OR SIXTEENTHS OF AN INCH. CONVENTIONAL STRAIGHT RAZOR ACCESORIES THE HONE AND STROPE A hone is an abrasive material that has the ability to cut steel.It is used to grind the steel and impart an effective cutting edge to the razor's blade. Since the abrasive material of the hone is harder than the steel,it will cut or file the edge on the blade of the razor. THE WATER HONE IS A NATURAL HONE CUT OUT OF ROCK FORMATIONS, USUALLY IMPORTED FROM GERMANY.The water hone is used with a piece of slate called a RUBBER.When the rubber is applied over the hone,which is moistened with water,a proper cutting surface is created. Synthetic hones,such as the SWATY honeand the carborundum hone, are manufacturedproducts.These hones may be used dry or lather may be applied before use. STROPS ;A re used to remove small metal particles from the blade,smooth the edge, and polish the razor. Most strops are made with layers of material:ONE SIDE OF LEATHER AND THE OTHER SIDE OF CANVAS. THE LATHER SIDE IS MADE FROM COWHIDE,HORSEHIDE,OR SYNTHETIC MATERIALS. THE CANVAS STROP IS MADE OF HIGH-QUALITY LINEN OS SILK,WOVEN INTO A FINE OR COARSE TEXTURE. When finishing a canvas strop, dry soap is worked well into the canvas grain, and a smooth glass bottle is rubbed over it several times,each time forcing the soap into the grain and also removing any excess soap. THE RUSSIAN STROP,,MADE OF COWHIDE ORIGINALLY IMPORTED FROM RUSSIA..ALSO THE RUSSIAN METHOD OF TANNING WAS EMPLOYED..THE RUSSIAN STROP IS CONSIDERED TO BE ONE OF THE BEST. HORSEHIDE STROPS ARE DIVIDED INTO TW0 MAIN GROUPS;The ordinary horsehide strop and the shell strop. THE RUSSIAN SHELL STROP,IT IS A HIGHQUALITY STROP TAKEN FROM THE MUSCULAR RUMP AREA OF A HORSE. Imitation leather strops has not proven very satisfactory and should be AVOIDED in the barbershop. WHEN HONING A RAZOR, USE A DIAGONAL STROKING MOTION. Care of the Hone Always clean the hone before using. Whenever a hone fills with tiny steel particles they must he removed. In order to obtain satisfactory results the best method is by using water and a pumice stone. If a new hone is very rough, the same method can be used to work it into shape.When wet honing is done, the hone should always be wiped dry after each use. This aids in cleaning the hone and also wipes away the tiny particles of steel that adhere to its cutting surface and clog the pores. TESTING A HONE RAZORa HONE razor may be tested by lightly passing it over a thumbnail moistened with water or lather.A PERFECT OR KEEN EDGE HAS FINE TEETH AND TENDS TO DIG INTO THE NAIL WITH A SMOOTH,STEADY GRIP.