Fascinating food in New York and occasionally farther afield

Singh's Roti Shop & Bar

The colors of Guyana, Trinidad, Jamaica, and the United States hang above the small bar, but whatever flag you fly, there's room enough for a crowd in the sprawling dining area.

The servers at the counter — once you reach it; the line can be very long on weekends — are very friendly with newbies. On a first visit, years back, a handful of us shared the (poorly documented) plates below, one vegetarian, one chicken and rice, one curry fish, maybe kingfish, perhaps enlivened with a pickled mango.

The dessert shown at bottom is paynuse ($2.50), curdled milk reduced with sugar, cinnamon, and sometimes ginger or clove. Its constitution is similar to that of burfi; though more crumbly, it's nearly as moist.