If you have become a Master Gardener through the Iowa State University Extension Service's program, you are invited to meet with us each month! We are meeting on the "third Thursday," at the Jefferson County Extension Office, 2606 West Burlington Ave., Fairfield, Iowa. This blog will include information about both community service and educational opportunities as they become available.

Friday, April 20, 2012

Cardboard helps transform lawn into planting space

By COLLEEN T. BELL, Master Gardener Intern | Apr 19, 2012

Photo by: JULIE JOHNSTON/Ledger photo

Trees are being planted at the Maasdam Barns using the cardboard method.

My goal is to phase out turf grass
except for pathways between beds of a wide range of edible fruit and nut
trees, berries, herbs, and flowers (some edible). It’s easy to transform lawn space (or just about any flat space
that’s a good garden site) into planting space with little to no digging
and no rototiling. Use cardboard!

Why cardboard? Cardboard blocks light and air from turf so it dies.
It does let water in and that helps the grass break down. This creates a
4- to 6-inch layer of compost, which attracts worms that will eat the
wet cardboard. It’s amazing how loose and “plantable” the soil is within
a few months. The worms naturally aerate the soil, which makes it
easier for things to grow. The roots need oxygen. (When we rototill, it
not only destroys any worms, it breaks down the soil structure, and it
takes a long time to build up again. It causes compacted soil.)

This is especially useful for fruit trees because their young roots
grow laterally just below the surface. Take away that competition of
turf to give them a good start in their new home.

How to do this? If planning ahead, water the area for the new growing
space. Mow as close to the ground as possible. Then layer and overlap
the cardboard over the entire area to be planted. Leave no grass
showing, please. Be sure to remove tape and staples that won’t decompose
with the cardboard. Water thoroughly.

The second step is covering the cardboard with about 2 to 4 inches of
compost if possible and topsoil if necessary for weight. Water again,
thoroughly. This facilitates decomposition and holds the cardboard down.

The third step: Cover area with a layer of mulch to retain moisture
until your living mulch is established. This mulch will vary depending
on what you are planting.

When you plant in the new bed always leave at least 3 to 6 inch
breathing space between cardboard and stem. Don’t let wet cardboard be
up against any growing thing, please! Pull the cardboard away from the
tree trunk or plant. Tear it out or tuck it under.

If you haven’t done this technique ahead of the time of planting your
tree, it’s OK to do it all at once when you plant the trees or soon
after. Follow the tree planting instructions as usual. Then mulch with
cardboard!
This technique also is useful for making a new flower or vegetable
bed. Follow the same instructions for any size bed. If there are a lot
of smaller plants in a row just cut a strip out to plant. Then I use
folded multi layers of newspaper to go between the small plants because
its easier to work with around small plants.

Here is how to use it for fruit trees: Create a circle about 5 to 6 inches in diameter. Figure the center
and measure a 3-foot string and draw a perfect circle to be covered with
cardboard. Ideally when you plant your fruit or nut trees, plant a
circle of daffodils around the trunk. They are poisonous, so the
critters won’t burrow up to the trunk to snack. Do this when you plant
the tree. Transplant them from places where they have gotten too
crowded. Once you have planted, don’t walk in that circle. It compacts
the soil. If you need to get close use a board or stepping stone.

Now the tree needs some company! Plants that will support and aid in
its growth and survival! Permaculture design uses the term guild to
describe such a group of plants. Comfrey is a good example that fills
several functions. The Fairfield Public Library has several books on
permaculture and edible forest gardening.

Colleen T. Bell is a Master Gardener intern, a graduate of the
permaculture design program and owner and manager of Earth Wisdom.

For orchid success, duplicate plant's natural conditions

Mar 29, 2012

Orchids have long been a symbol of
love. Since selling so many of them in the floral department during
Valentine’s Day, I thought that people who received them would like more
information on how to care for them. I have to admit I didn’t know
much about how to care for my own orchid.
The golden rule for orchid success is to duplicate the plant’s
natural conditions as closely as possible.In nature most orchids are
epiphytes, meaning they grow on other objects, clinging to rough bark or
even stone. The showy orchids favored by most people are usually either
phalaenopsis hybrids — so called moth orchids or dendrobium hybrids.
They like;
1. Strong light, but not direct sunlight
2. High humidity
3. Good air flow around the roots
4. Regular periods of drying and watering (one trick I learned is to use 3 to 4 ice cubes to water the plant slowly)
5. Keep temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees
The first step with any store-bought orchid is to enjoy the
bloom.Don’t re-pot a flowering plant. After the bloom is gone, cut off
the dead flower spike (I pinched mine off like dead-heading) and re-pot.
Orchids should be potted into specialized orchid pots using an orchid
soil mixture. Orchid pots feature drainage slits so water will run
through the pot. They are widely available. During the growing season,
feed the plant weekly with orchid fertilizer. In the summer, give it
more water.
In the winter months, keep your plant warm and cut back on the water.
Don’t fertilize it. Mist your orchid every so often to keep it hydrated
(but all my research says not to get water on the leaves).
If you see signs of distress, such as yellowing leaves, wrinkled
leaves or no blooms, move the plant and keep tweaking your conditions.
Once an orchid finds a happy spot, and falls into a routine, the plant
should regularly throw new roots and leaves or canes depending on the
type of orchid. Do not be concerned if the roots are coming out of the
top of your plant. Orchid’s like to have their roots crowded. Your plant
should reward you yearly with beautiful blooms.

Saturday, April 7, 2012

The concern was last year's drought. We did water often. I'm sure that pulled it through!

I'm not sure this "panoramic" shot will work... but click on any photo to enlarge it!

See the cute little muscari (grape hyacinths) in the lower right hand corner? Hopefully they'll sow seeds and multiply! :-) And yes, Joan and I planted some hyacinth. They were a little droopy after a couple of days, but perhaps the bit of rain helped today (Saturday, April 7th).

Public Gardens of Iowa

2012 calendar features 12 public gardens in Iowa, as well as a list of others around the state. Website locations are available. The calendar itself contains gardening tips and ideas. Purchase your copy at the Jefferson County Extension Office.

ISU Extension Service - Master Gardener Activities - Check It Out!

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About Me

We are a number of gardeners with a variety of interests and expertise, each of whom has achieved (or are working on)their Master Gardener status through study with the Iowa State Extension Service, Ames, Iowa.