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Difficulty: Moderate

Two 8-hour days

$2 to $15 per square foot

Step 4: Add Sand Layer

Make a screed, which you can also use as a spacer when installing the side guide rails: Using a handsaw, cut down a 2x4 so it is 6 inches longer than the finished width of your path. Then cut notches at either end that are 3 ¼ inches wide and as high as one of your bricks laid flat.

Using a spade, create narrow trenches along the edges of the graded base to fit lengths of 1x4 composite lumber turned on edge. Position the 1x4s along both sides of the walkway, then space them evenly
by wedging the notched screed between them. Using a dead-blow mallet, pound the 1x4s in until they are level with the existing grade. Work your way down the path until both sides are lined. To hold these rails in place as you go, drive wooden stakes about a foot into the ground against the outside of the rails every 3 feet. Secure each stake to the lumber with two 1 ¼-inch deck screws, then cut it flush with the rail.

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Tools List

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Spade

Handsaw

4-foot level

Hand tamper

Drill/driver

Deadblow mallet

Push broom

Shopping List

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1. BRICKS Choose bricks rated for severe weather (SW), also called "clay pavers" at the stone yard. Modular bricks measure 8 inches long,
4 inches wide, and 1½ inches thick, but actual dimensions can vary by as much as half an inch. Measure the bricks you like and figure out how many you'll need for your pattern. Depending on the pattern's waste, figure about five bricks per square foot

3. MASONRY SAND or stone dust, for creating a smooth, porous base between the graded base and the bricks

4. 1x4 COMPOSITE LUMBER to use as temporary guides along the edges of the path as you set the bricks. Composite lumber is easier to bend for curves than standard lumber, though the latter
will also work

5. WOODEN STAKES at least 1½ feet long, to secure the guide rails in place