Grapes have an ancient feel about them. Cultivated for thousands of years, they're firmly ensconced in the cuisines of many cultures, from the fresh fruits themselves to the diverse array of delicacies they yield: wine, raisins, subtly-scented oil pressed from the seeds, and the forest-green leaves, which are most often served stuffed with rice.

American supermarkets are typically stocked with only one or two types of grapes, but there are thousands of varieties grown worldwide. Some, like the common green Thompson Seedless or Red Globe, are cultivated specifically as table grapes, while others are grown for pressing into juice, fermenting into wine, or drying for raisins. The grape harvest starts in early summer in parts of California, which grows this country's lion's share of the fruit. But for many varieties, such as the fragrant Concord and sweet Niagara grapes that thrive in the Northeast, late summer and early fall is the perfect time to indulge.

I love to use grapes at this time of year to liven up desserts, appetizers, and main courses alike; their tart juiciness makes them ideal as an addition to cakes and pies, and savory dishes like chicken salad and foie gras get a welcome pop of sweetness from a few fresh grapes. But don't overlook them as a star ingredient: Stirred with chopped fresh cilantro, lime juice, honey, and a little jalapeño for heat, grapes transform into a lightly-sweet fresh salsa that's an ideal early autumn accompaniment to baked fish or chicken, and deliciously refreshing scooped up with tortilla chips.

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