Mikl bolted and cleaned the top pitch and I led it, and I cleaned and bolted his lower pitch! A bit of pre-placed (bad!) gear was placed on rap (thus the route name). It was a fun day out. This was my first new route in the Bluies.

The rock quality was pretty average on the lower half of this route, but the climbing was rad. Looks really intimidating and blank from below but there are holds aplenty. Felt soft at 24 in today's superb conditions.

Amazing scoop that is fairly unrelenting but never very hard. Just takes a lot of concentration to not botch the final moves. One of my best new routes in ages. Could even argue this is grade 22 if the holds are chalked up.

Never have I worked so hard on an "exit route". Really long involved pitches, but the rock quality is mostly grey gritty stuff. Both Paul and I were wearing tight technical shoes and were crying with pain by the end of the day.

2nd shot. Really quite unlikely orange face seam crack thing. Very different to all the other sport routes here. Felt more old school and technical. Supersustained until the very end. Several moves felt very reachy - tippy toes and finger tips!

Novelty climbing par excellence! Nice rock and moves. Bolting was plain wierd - the first bolt is halfway up the cliff, then the next 3 are a metre apart. Could really do with a belay bolt on the ledge at minimum.

1 shot only. Clean to last bolt then a few goes to do the last move. The crux on this felt a lot more 'positive' and in control then the mess i made of the 25 to the left. Not sure why this routes first bolt is so high?

Excellent well protected and sustained crackline. The only downside is the lack of an anchor. Guide says traverse off to Jezebel's first anchor - don't do what I did and mantle out onto the super nasty shale ledge! Instead, traverse left along horizontal break 2m BELOW the ledge and DOwNcLiMB to Jezebel's hidden anchor. I ended up crawling right along shale ledge to anchors on Blast Off as the mantle was irreversible. Would be an absolute trade route with an anchor at the top of the crack below the shale ledge.

P1 - clean on 2nd. Really enjoyed this pitch. Felt like a wierd Moonarie old school line - polished rock. P2 - speed french free ascent on 2nd to beat the setting sun. Incredible waterwashed rock and burly climbing. Unique in every way. So much better/harder than it looks from below. The tree you rap off is highly dubious.

After the log snapped off when I was standing on it (!) it didn't bode well for the ascent. I struggled on the slab cruxreachy section with a few falls - the rest was reasonably straight forward but pumpy (great finish). I ddn't really enjoy the flow of this route - a lot of moves kind of felt awkward or something. Will try again for the redpoint though when don't have toddler in tow. Good fitness route!

Not sure how legit my tick was. On the flash clipped anchors with a draw on from the desperate little undercling. The holds past this seemed uber minging (no obvious finish jug). I tried and tried this sequence for about 15 minutes and never got further than the undercling. Really nice 23 apart from that.

The approach to Big Top is quite hideous with a 3 year old. I think it took us an hour. This route is quite cool - nice feature but a bit short and the bolts next to the crack knock a star off. Im confused why it took until 2008 for this to be climbed?

Alz onsight (I really should have checked thecrag before I picked my routes today!). The upper 2/3 of this route is spectacular and reminded me quite a bit of Taipan (runouts, ripply rock, insecure but not powerful moves). The bottom is pretty loose and shale and bolts in wierd spots.

Dogged to last few metres but ran out of steam and tips. Cool route - not as nice as Toyland - felt more old school 80s wall climbing. Runouts aren't too bad. This route has a lot of horizontal breaks which aren't. Keen to get back on it this season.

2nd shot today. Felt like an impossible amount of climbing on first go - scrapped through on next shot. The 3rd bolt really is a stupid dangerous clip - especially since all the other bolts are closely spaced.

Slightly scary knowing the first bolt had fallen out on someone (and the 2nd bolt is upside down in a roof). The first few moves are hideous grovel onto a ledge with swampy feet - but past the first bolt its actually quite funsteep climbing - 3rd bolt is scary with a big potentially ground fall. There was no chalk and it was dirty - but now its sort of clean and chalked up. Try it if you dare.

Sun, queues, no breeze. Not sure I did any better on this today. Still enjoy the climb - but the whole Shipley on a sunday is a bit a of a catastrophe. Good social outing though. 2 shots - one as my warmup.

There was moments of fun unusual climbing on this up the huge dyke feature - but the rock quality is quite poor on black snappy edges I was fairly frazzled by the end (the novelty of the line had well and truly worn off at 30m). Not sure traffic would ever improve this.

A huge soaring ironstone "tufa" splitting the entire cliff. What a cool climb! Rock quality is brittle a lot of the way up - had to tread carefully but the climbing, position, length, location is brilliant. Mostly grade 22-23 moves - with a only one proper hard move down low.

Originally climbed this by piking left into Shakes and Flakes at the 3rd bolt - then doing the finish. Stripped the gear and felt up some holds on the rap down - then decided what the hell lets try the actual line. Scaryrunout doglegging into Racers Edge at the 3rd bolt and committing no chalk moves above that! The climbing is fun but I highly recommend putting a long sling on 4th bolt. Anyone know whos route this is?

2 goes to just above bolt 6 (grade 25?). Really nice with lots of long moves. A little seepy and I have no idea how you clip the bolt on the lip of the roof without a Panic draw? I was scared even with one!

Yere no. Got to third bolt and packed it in. Looked like it gets zero traffic - no chalk on the holds (a few faint tick marks) and lots of the rock was kind of snappy and untrafficked. Upper runouts just look silly!

Happy with a one sit ascent (apart from jumaring past the first dyno move so I didn't deck on rope stretch). I felt so much happier on this today than the first ascent due to better fitness and icy sticky friction. Lovely rock.

Brilliant little arete route - felt like I was at Nowra! These routes would be uber popular if they were above the walking track - but they get nigh all attention hidden away 50m from the hoards. Check it out everyone!

The route that inspired me to visit Sublime for the first time (Thanks to a pic of Pipertron taken by JJ) Spectacular position and moves - but the rock quality and total mission of an approach (and clean!) knocked the stars down. My attempt to get back to the belay after sending the pitch was mildly amusing/scray as I climbed up and down and left on black choss valiantly trying to find someway to lower-off without cutting my rope or dropping rocks on Paul. Ended up backjumping the whole thing. Read Paul's comment for all the beta.

What Paul said. Lack of any trundling or brushing, messy bolting and generally unpleasant climbing didn't do it for me. I also worry that people standing around racking up at base of Sweet Dreams are well and truly in the firing line (I had to shoo away several onlookers when belaying). There are plenty of other routes at this crag at this grade that are superior. Linked pitches 1 & 2.