With each season, the spotlight on Ohne Titel's Alexa Adams and Flora Gill grows more intense. A favorite of the arty-fashion set since its inception three years ago, the label's show has achieved distinct can't-miss status—even on a gorgeously sunny Saturday morning. The hothouse glare has seen hothouse growth. Their Fall collection resulted in a 300 percent jump in sales, and this season they're launching a handbag line that's long been in the works. These girls mean business. And that meant that their Spring inspiration of Japanese woodcut artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi—sparked by a Japan Society exhibit earlier this year—was rendered with a very subtle hand.

Adams and Gill worked in a tight palette of black, navy, and white. There were flashes of fluorescent on the fiercely cool sandal-boots and the geometric tubular necklaces that were a collaboration with artist Tauba Auerbach. There was a vague Eastern sensibility in the simple silhouette of the belted pants and the egglike kimono curve in cropped jackets and drapey striped knits. But that merged with the punch of graphic sportiness in color-blocking and a sort of race-car sleekness. Much of the latter came from the neoprene bodysuits tucked into pants and layered under Alaïa-esque pleated knit dresses and skirts. They were such an integral part of the show that it was a disappointment to learn that they're relegated to special orders. Perhaps that will change once retailers have their say, but as it stands, it's the sole miss in an otherwise hit-filled collection.