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New Warperior Rail discussion

I received permission from the better half to front the money for the prototype.

I am creating a list of items to start conversation. Feel free to add your thoughts.

Do you have video?
Hope this post works...sorry for the pathetic trigger work. It was hard enough for me to figure out how to video. This is using Procap paint I bought at Goodwill for $2.99. Many dimples and smelled like rotten fish. I forgot to turn the loader on, but die corn die!

Can't do the hopper mod? You could still use your warpfeed muscle man.
It is cheap to do, but takes time and patience. You really only need a couple fittings and epoxy from hardware store. I would love to see someone come out with a shell and inverted feedtube made for this mod. No feedtube on bottom and add some screw holes to customize attachment location.

Rail to hold hopper? Prototype to come...
I used part of PTP warp bracket (standard warp bracket works too) and the front of a KAPP Cradle (< $8). A few wraps of electrical tape and it holds it solid. I wanted to bring this out with the rail as a kit, but interest in one would set interest of the other.

Minimum quantity too high?
I willl be buying one of each setup so the number will come down. I just didn't want to be the first 2 and now the only 2 on the previous presale list.

Priced too high? Body mod costs...
See my post about the lowest price opportunity. XMT has a lot of time into it and deserves to be compansated for his great final product.

Another body option you say?
I didn't want to bring this up unless sales were slow... Well, the rail could be milled, leaving the feedneck portion unmilled. This opens up a completely new setup for warp right (still needs to be tested) & vertical ULE bodies (new pics posted). This would offset the feedneck for stock class. A custom feed tube mod could be attached to the rail securely.

Would the AM/MM length be a better option?
I decided on RT to offer more options. If AM/MM would sell better the change can be made.

i know this is for the rail, but would you be able to do that nifty mod to a rotor?
i have about ten of them lying around here from my shops extras i pick up avery 6 mo or so, and since i havnt actually played ball in a while now, maybe somthing to consider getting done.

if so great, if not no biggy,

now on to the rail, is there a way to get this rail just in slug form? solid state? but with the desired warp side milled?
edit:
i know it says in the first post that there is a slug option, but will the slug option include the front be milled down on the sides like the prototype indicates?

i know this is for the rail, but would you be able to do that nifty mod to a rotor?
i have about ten of them lying around here from my shops extras i pick up avery 6 mo or so, and since i havnt actually played ball in a while now, maybe somthing to consider getting done.

if so great, if not no biggy,

now on to the rail, is there a way to get this rail just in slug form? solid state? but with the desired warp side milled?
edit:
i know it says in the first post that there is a slug option, but will the slug option include the front be milled down on the sides like the prototype indicates?

lmk,
thankyou,
KNM

Unfornunately, I don't think the ROTOR would work. The hopper mod in general would be too expensive to offer my (& my buddies) services. I would rather see someone make a new plastic insert with the feedtube inverted. Anyone with plastic molding connections or connections to the company that makes the loaders?

I am sure XMT can leave the front milling off (SLUG). I will touch base with him to find out for sure.

i know this is for the rail, but would you be able to do that nifty mod to a rotor?
i have about ten of them lying around here from my shops extras i pick up avery 6 mo or so, and since i havnt actually played ball in a while now, maybe somthing to consider getting done.

if so great, if not no biggy,

now on to the rail, is there a way to get this rail just in slug form? solid state? but with the desired warp side milled?
edit:
i know it says in the first post that there is a slug option, but will the slug option include the front be milled down on the sides like the prototype indicates?

lmk,
thankyou,
KNM

you have 10 rotor's sitting around? PM me ill take one

Cool Idea Jimmy, wish I had a warp body for this but I can't afford to make that switch right now.

Unfornunately, I don't think the ROTOR would work. The hopper mod in general would be too expensive to offer my (& my buddies) services. I would rather see someone make a new plastic insert with the feedtube inverted. Anyone with plastic molding connections or connections to the company that makes the loaders?

I am sure XMT can leave the front milling off (SLUG). I will touch base with him to find out for sure.

im not worrried about paying you or anyone else, i will do all the work my self since i have rotor shell molds i made. i was just looking for your opinion, before i dable in this mod.
these molds are easily modified to accept the mod you have tailored. just checking base to see if a rotor is doable.

thankyou, and let me know about the slug setup.

i have plenty of uses in my mold shop to be able to acomidate myself., of course i run into problems if i offer the services to others for a price, since the shells of the rotor are not mine to sell. so i do my work for myself, sellfish i know but, yeah.

Cool Idea Jimmy, wish I had a warp body for this but I can't afford to make that switch right now.

oh sorry didnt see you there kcombs,
didnt elaborate much on that, 2 complete rotors the rest are parts .

so i recall my statement of 10 and say i have 2 working and enough parts to resemble 10 rotors, been working on some mobile projects for the mag lately, so i obtain alot of misc parts. its handy, but much more useless.

I hope I'm not taking this thread in the wrong direction, but what brass piping are you using to connect to your halo guts? It looks like it fits in there very well.

Thanks.

I used a 3/4" 90* street elbow and a 3/4" 45* street elbow from the plumbing dept. The 90* elbow was cut shorter (should be able to see in the picture). The 90* was epoxied (use a little on flat edge and lots on the outer edges) to the blue housing. Also, let the epoxy setup for awhile or you may find yourself holding it together and getting frustrated with every movement. I left the 45* to move freely. Makes it easier to line things up and allow for easier disassembly. You need to cut out a section which removes the center screw location. The dremel attachment we used would melt the plastic more than cut it. It is always difficult to do a permanent mod. Small calculated cuts and piece things together as you go through the stages. Measure twice or 10 times if needed. Lots of eyeballing.

That looks identical as pictured. The smaller OD fits in the bigger ID so I just thought it was 1". It was just called a 3/4" street elbow.

I used a 90* and 45* to get the angle I wanted. You could probably line it up with just one fitting. The hose melts easy so it is a slow process to get it over the fitting(s). Hence, why I used the ULE standard feedneck.

DAMN YOU! This is one of those things I have been meaning to try for a long time! Big time props!

I bought a clear halo shell about 2 years ago so i could do that very hopper mod i had in mind,
Of coarse things came up ,& i put it on hold .Now that i see this thread ,...im gonna finish it
Thanks TimmyJay

1. This mod will not work with a rotor. The rotor has a different deck than a Halo style hopper.

2. This mod will only work correctly with a Reloader B2 or a Invert Halo Too loader. These are the models that you can turn off the tension sensor on them. This will not work at all with a regular Halo B since it has eyes.

I think that was all but just wanted to put that info out there so people aren't chopping up their loaders and then find out it won't work.

1. This mod will not work with a rotor. The rotor has a different deck than a Halo style hopper.

2. This mod will only work correctly with a Reloader B2 or a Invert Halo Too loader. These are the models that you can turn off the tension sensor on them. This will not work at all with a regular Halo B since it has eyes.

I think that was all but just wanted to put that info out there so people aren't chopping up their loaders and then find out it won't work.

Wouldn't it also work with Magna internals in a Halo shell? I know you can turn off the tension sensor on it. I do that with my Smartguide setup.