Hobie never did respond with an official adjustment procedure for the V2 x-bar v-brace.

Maybe not in the thread referenced, but has been noted in the past...

There is no adjustment to the V brace that effects the mast vs bearing plate dimension as was done for the Original (fiberglass) receiver or V1 akas. The V2 mast receiver is bolted to the crossbar, so is a fixed dimension.

The V frame adjustment would only be to push / seat the V frame base down onto the stud / base of the mast receiver.

Tom, I don't think "crazy" was actually used, but without a doubt, you felt many of us were at the time.

That comes from clinging to the "logic" that there is a fixed, immobile relationship between the bottom of the mast cup (the "step plate" I believe) and the roller bearing plate. On the V1 AI boats, clearly there is not. The turnbuckles can easily be used to + or- the clearance. Center a ruler in the mast cup, adjust the V-brace and see for yourself.

Yes - on the TI's there is a "solid" connection, but it is highly offset to the mast opening (as are the turnbuckle connections inside) and most of that opening is based in plastic, so it can, and does flex. Not as much as the V1, but enough to make the often-needed adjustment to keep the furling ring from dragging on the roller bearing plate.

I've said all I can. Whatever causes this magic to occur, in the end, you only need observe it for yourself.

Apparently mine is made differently. No matter what I do with the turnbuckles, the top plate of the mast support remains in the same place. It's fixed. All the pieces are affixed to each other. I put up an illustration of this previously.

Wanda:If it were me I would get a replacement collar on order as soon as possible, I'm sure Hobie and the dealer will feel for your situation and get a new collar to you, It's just a molded part so it won't be expensive. The area of the mast you are messing around is by far the highest stress point on th carbon mast, you absolutely do not want to comprimise a thousand dollar carbon mast by heating, cooling, pounding with 2x4's etc. just move on, cut the old one off, and clean up and prepare the carbon mast for the new collar. Be very careful not to nick or scratch the mast itself in any way, as even a small horizontal scratch can concentrate stress ( a bad thing). Not being careful and meticulous at this point means the difference between an inexpensive mistake or a very costly thousand dollar repair. I know some of the guys are just trying to help, I'm just sayin cut the dang thing off (vary carefully) and move on. Hang the darn thing by your work bench as a reminder of what not to do, I know the wall around my bench is pretty crowded.Bob

If it were me unless your highly skilled with a die grinder, I would'nt go near it with any power tools, keep in mind one nick in the mast and it is scrap. I would by hand with a hack saw cut vertical cuts into the collar, around 4 or 6 cuts like your cutting a pie. Wrap tape around the mast above and below the collar so you don't scratch or damage the mast with the hack saw frame. You shouldn't have to cut completely down to the mast, a thin web will easily break when you start prying the pieces off. Just take your time.Bob

WHOOW WHOOOO!!!!!! The furling drum is off!!! I wasn't able to get back to the removal of the drum until yesterday. I cut two diagonal cuts with a hack saw about an inch apart and tapped a small screw driver between the drum and the mast. Then slowly lifted up on the driver. I had to do some more gentle cutting to get the strip loose. When there was enough of the loose strip, I pulled the rest of it down with a pliers. I tried then to gently pry up the rest of the drum so it would release itself from the mast, but was uncomfortable with that. So I cut two more diagonal lines an inch apart on the other side of the drum and pulled that almost all the way off with the pliers when the drum started to slide on the mast. It then just slid itself off the mast. There was a lot of epoxy left on the mast. I've been gently tapping it off with the small screw driver and hammer. I now will be sanding and then cleaning it off. (As per Tom's instruction on the web. Which I should have looked at more than once when I first started this project ) I have ordered a new furling drum, thank you for the item # Stringy. I did take some photos when I realized I was in denial. I'll post those in the near future. So many of you have replied with advice and encouragement. Thank you so much. I won't have to purchase a new mast! Wanda

OK now could we clear up this apparent discrepancy in how to adjust the V2 x-bars so that the mast clears the bearing plate.

mmiller wrote:

Quote:

Hobie never did respond with an official adjustment procedure for the V2 x-bar v-brace.

Maybe not in the thread referenced, but has been noted in the past...

There is no adjustment to the V brace that effects the mast vs bearing plate dimension as was done for the Original (fiberglass) receiver or V1 akas. The V2 mast receiver is bolted to the crossbar, so is a fixed dimension.

The V frame adjustment would only be to push / seat the V frame base down onto the stud / base of the mast receiver.

I have not been able to find Hobie's official adjustment procedure anywhere. It's not in the support pages as far as I can see.So if the furling drum is rubbing on the bearing plate with a V2 aka assembly how can that be fixed? It seems Hobie (and Tom) are saying you can't adjust it with the V-Brace, whereas Nohuhu and others are reporting you can.So Matt how would you recommend Slaughter adjust his V2 drum clearance?

Stringy I could be a bit cheeky here and suggest that Slaughter's clearance issue is self-healing once a couple of the delrin balls fall out and drop to the bottom of the cup, and the mast then sits on them, so clearance at the top is increased...

Righto, having chucked off my "facetious cap", I would like to ask Matt the corollary question.....

How do I REDUCE the clearance between the drum and the bearing plate on my 2012 TI, to prevent the furling line getting caught?