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Topic Review (Newest First)

04-07-2004 07:14 AM

Rhansen

I'm going to stick my neck out here and say that is too much duration for 8.5:1 CR. The motor will have little or no bottom end, I'd recommend another point of compression before using that much cam. Use 270 or less adv. dur and you should have more useable power. (I tried a similar cam in an 8.5:1 motor and it was a dog below 3000 rpm, changed to a 267 adv. dur. and was MUCH better, according to DD 2000 the smaller cam was worth 30+ hp and tq.)

04-07-2004 01:00 AM

jimfulco

Yep.

04-06-2004 05:37 PM

cutt83

hey guys i just bought the 10066038 targetmaster block too, was wondering if anyone had any stock specs for this engine. cam, heads, valves, hp , torque
i looked everywhere and couldn't find anything, i wrote goodwrench and they told me it was the same as the 350 LM1 is this true?

thanx

12-11-2003 03:46 AM

Frisco

Screw-in adapters are sold thru Summit and Jegs and others. I made my own by removing the core from an old spark plug and silver soldering a quick dis-connect for the air line. I set the regulator on my air compressor to 125 psi and everything worked fine. Be sure that the piston in the cylinder you are going to apply the air to is at the BOTTOM of its stroke before applying the air. The air will rotate the crank otherwise. If the pan is off when applying the air you will hear air leaking. This is 'normal' and should be no cause for alarm.

12-10-2003 06:07 PM

Grant209

Quote:

Originally posted by lluciano77 Don't use the rope trick. I had a keeper that was stuck in the retainer and I wanted to change it with the heads on. The air compressor wasn't enough to hold the valve closed. I decided to use the rope trick. The rope got stuck in the chamber. I eventually got it out but the valve must have cut a piece of the rope off. It was left behind in the chamber. I ended up with a full teardown to fix a bent piston. If you can't do it with the compressor then take the heads off.

do you got anymore tips on how to change the valve springs with the heads on the engine with an air compressor....because soon i will be changing my cam and i want to change my valve springs too....thank alot in advance.....

12-10-2003 05:58 PM

72chevy240z

Ok thanks for the tip about the rope.

The guy at summit said the springs I mentioned above would require no machining of the head and I could use the stock retainers, is this true?

12-10-2003 05:53 PM

lluciano77

Quote:

Originally posted by 72chevy240z I called summit tech line and they said with the sumk1104 cam I should get these http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1515&view=1024 springs rated at .490 max lift so I did. Only 43 bucks.
Whats the best way to install the springs with the heads still on the car? With the rope trick or the air trick. With the air trick what and where do i get the valve to put the air in the cylinder. Give me all u know about this. I don't want to mess it up. And any tips on the cam too. thanks for all your help, bob

The compression of the stock crate motor of 8.5..will this be enough for this cam?

Don't use the rope trick. I had a keeper that was stuck in the retainer and I wanted to change it with the heads on. The air compressor wasn't enough to hold the valve closed. I decided to use the rope trick. The rope got stuck in the chamber. I eventually got it out but the valve must have cut a piece of the rope off. It was left behind in the chamber. I ended up with a full teardown to fix a bent piston. If you can't do it with the compressor then take the heads off.

I called summit tech line and they said with the sumk1104 cam I should get these http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1515&view=1024 springs rated at .490 max lift so I did. Only 43 bucks.
Whats the best way to install the springs with the heads still on the car? With the rope trick or the air trick. With the air trick what and where do i get the valve to put the air in the cylinder. Give me all u know about this. I don't want to mess it up. And any tips on the cam too. thanks for all your help, bob

The compression of the stock crate motor of 8.5..will this be enough for this cam?

I'd expect the springs to be these (pn 3911068) or equivalent. Same as they used in most all SBC's from the late 60's through the 70's & even into the late 90's on some. GM used them with valve lift up to .460", but the cams had gentler ramps compared to modern aftermarket stuff, so I'd change them to whatever your cam maker recommends.

I have no idea if these people will be able to help you at all, but it is a place to start at least.

Good luck

Adam

12-09-2003 06:29 PM

72chevy240z

ok. wow, I have read and read tring to find out what the springs are rated at in these heads till my eye bleed. What do u guys think <i know I'm asking the same question over > if this cam will work in the goodwrench heads if i keep it under 5,000rpms?

12-09-2003 03:42 PM

firestone

Ok, if the heads are from a 1992 crate motor, then they are not vortec. The Vortec heads werent used until 1996. As far as the springs in the heads go, I would try getting a hold of someone who deals with GM performance parts directly.

Adam

12-09-2003 02:36 PM

72chevy240z

I popped the valve cover off and the heads are
33417369...90-up...350..........Gen.I Good wrench crate motor,
"Hecho en Mexico", 76cc
You guys still say I will be ok with a summit 1104 224/224 @.050 and .465 lift on both intake and exhaust?

12-08-2003 10:38 PM

72chevy240z

thanks

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