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and to stay on topic... the polish and slight filing of the shoulder didn't fix my erratic ejection. i have a glock .40 extractor on the way to try, since it's been reported to fix the problem on a g19.

I polished my extractor in my Gen4 G19 with all the updated parts the other day and tried the gun out. With just the top and bottoms polished until it was pretty shiny the ejection was alittle better but I was still getting a few cases to the head. So then I started taking some off the step, it took a couple of tries and I think I got it right now. I only had 5rds left after making the second adjustment to the step, but all 5 casings ejected to the right and made a high arc out of the gun and landed in a fairly nice pile.

Also, I was wondering how will the extractor act if you remove too much material? I have enough taken off the top/bottom so that the extractor falls out under it's own weight. I only took enough off the step to remove the blueing and maybe a touch more.

I have not heard anything about how the spent brass looks. On my late model G19 test fire date 10/10/11, with the stock recoil spring, my fired brass shows a mark on the rim at 3 o'clock From the extractor and then a small dent about 4-5 o'clock from what appears to be hitting the bottom of the ejection port. There are also brass marks left on hood of the slide. SS recoil spring eleminated this. I have the 336 ejector and non updated recoil spring. This was with Winchester WWB. FWIW

I polished my extractor in my Gen4 G19 with all the updated parts the other day and tried the gun out. With just the top and bottoms polished until it was pretty shiny the ejection was alittle better but I was still getting a few cases to the head. So then I started taking some off the step, it took a couple of tries and I think I got it right now. I only had 5rds left after making the second adjustment to the step, but all 5 casings ejected to the right and made a high arc out of the gun and landed in a fairly nice pile.

Also, I was wondering how will the extractor act if you remove too much material? I have enough taken off the top/bottom so that the extractor falls out under it's own weight. I only took enough off the step to remove the blueing and maybe a touch more.

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I am very confused why people are removing material from this step, the only thing that step does is locate the position of the extractor when there is NO round in the chamber. Once there is a round under the extractor this step is OUT of the process.I believe that too much messing with this step people are going to have issues with the extractor being in the correct location while CHAMBERING a round.

i installed the glock .40 extractor into my gen4 g19 9mm about a half hour ago. i loaded 10 speer lawman cartridges to see how it would eject. first cartridge got stuck on the extractor, oops not a good sign! so i took an arkansas stone to the claw and filed the top part of it thinking it would help slide onto the cartridge case. it worked. i loaded about 4 magazines worth of speer lawman and snap caps, and they all ejected to the 4 o'clock consistently, almost within a 1" landing zone.

i'm planning to take it to the range saturday morning and i'll report back how it goes, but so far it looks like the .40 extractor is a viable fix for the g19.

edit: it was actually the top part of the claw that was too tight. i initially thought it was the lower part of the claw that i filed down, but it was the top part of it.

I am very confused why people are removing material from this step, the only thing that step does is locate the position of the extractor when there is NO round in the chamber. Once there is a round under the extractor this step is OUT of the process.I believe that too much messing with this step people are going to have issues with the extractor being in the correct location while CHAMBERING a round.

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One other thing in addition to what you've already written: The size of the extractor's shoulder also determines how much, 'bite' the extractor claw takes on a cartridge rim.

If a small amount of material is removed from this shoulder then cartridge cases are going to be more positively grabbed by the inward-directed claw.

Where the extractor claw rests when there is no cartridge in the chamber is, consequently, irrelevant.

If a small amount of material is removed from this shoulder then cartridge cases are going to be more positively grabbed by the inward-directed claw.

Where the extractor claw rests when there is no cartridge in the chamber is, consequently, irrelevant.

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I disagree. When there is a case under the extractor, that shoulder contacts nothing, so there is nothing to retard its inward travel. As MNBud stated, it only comes in contact with the slide when there is no case present.

You can remove the whole shoulder, and it wont have any more inward travel than a factory extractor if a case is present. The more you remove, the more likely youre going to have a feeding issue due to the extractor being improperly positioned in the slide, which is what I believe MNBud was getting at.

I disagree. When there is a case under the extractor, that shoulder contacts nothing, so there is nothing to retard its inward travel. As MNBud stated, it only comes in contact with the slide when there is no case present.

You can remove the whole shoulder, and it wont have any more inward travel than a factory extractor if a case is present. The more you remove, the more likely youre going to have a feeding issue due to the extractor being improperly positioned in the slide, which is what I believe MNBud was getting at.

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Exactly. Well-stated.

Removing material from that shoulder will not tighten the grip on the case at all & may cause problems with the next round feeding up from the mag... not to mention someone trying to drop the slide on a round in the chamber (never a good idea, of course).

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