Ford Taurus A/C Compressor Clutch Replacement Tips

The Ford Taurus A/C Compressor clutch plays a vital role in keeping the air-conditioning system running efficiently. The function of the compressor clutch is to connect the compressor with the engine crankshaft, so that power can be transmitted from the engine to the compressor, which in turn compresses the refrigerant needed for the AC system. If your AC is blowing hot air, even if the refrigerant level is appropriate and there are no leaks, the reason might be the compressor clutch, which you can easily replace using the below mentioned procedure. However, make sure to not mess with the other AC components while you perform the replacement.

Procedure:

Park your car on ground level and put it intofirst gear in order to avoid movement during the replacement procedure.

Open the engine hood and disconnect the Negative battery cable.

Raise the car, place the jack stand under the rear sub frame rails and support the car on jack stands.

Disconnect the dog bone dampener.

Remove the engine serpentine belt from engine parts assembly.

Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly.

Disconnect the right side end link from either end.

Remove the right side strut bolt and small bolt that holds the brake line to the strut.

Place your jack under the passenger's side of the sub-frame near the control arm and remove the two sub-frame bolts on that side.

THANKS FOR THE GREAT INFO. I DIDN’T KNOW WHAT THE DOG BONE WAS ,BUT I LOOK IT UP ON THE NET AND I DID FIND THAT IT WAS UNDER THE HOOD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE AND IT LOOKS LIKE A TWISTED DOG BONE.
ALSO YOU WILL NEED METRIC TOOLS AND SNAP RING PLIERS AND A JACK AND JACK STANDS

Jim U

This works. It’s time consuming, but much cheaper than having it done. I did this step “Remove the right side strut bolt and small bolt that holds the brake line to the strut.” but nothing ever came loose, so you may be able to skip it. My car is the 2005 Taurus.
The strut and brake line stayed in the same position after I dropped the subframe. I didn’t have to remove the subframe bolt on the driver’s side, either. It’s close. I also had to disconnect the positive battery terminal and unplug the wiring harness from the intake, since they were being stretched as I dropped the subframe. Just be careful and take your time and look things over as you go along.

admin

Thanks Jim for this additional information.

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Joshua Austill

This worked for me exactly as described, plus the addition of the help of Jim U's comment. The only other thing I ran into was the coolant line on the front passenger side was wrapped under the subframe, so when I started to lower it it stretched the heck out of it until I lifted it back up and jockied it out of the way. I hope i didn't work the rubber to much so it fails. Got this done in 4 hours 3 minutes start to finish, including a lunch break. Not bad for what they quoted me in labor!!!

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Indeed. I keep min in shape all the time. I also set schedules for check up and maintenance/