Hi im still pretty fresh here, so hopefully this hasnt been asked a million times before (I couldnt find it on this website).

My question is; are my scandium frame revolvers less durable than a stainless revolver or is it the other was around. Ive been reading from other websites and people continualy comment about the non durability of the scandium/titanium guns. I would love to know how people more informed on Smiths revolvers would call this.

The reason im asking is, I have nothing but scandium frame guns, (weird yes but im not into blue or shinny guns or older models, although I do need to make an exception for the shinny stainless 627 UDR) I have three smiths a M&P 340, 327 pc and a 327 trr8 and I really want to make sure they hold up. I not a serios shooter I run probably about 1,500 through
each of the snubs per year and maybe 500 throught the trr8.

PS: I know these guns have locks and posible MIM parts, I have read everthing about this matter and would apreciate any Lock or MIM comment to be withheld. thanks

I think the jury is still out on the long term durability of these guns. Smith and Wesson thought enough of them to extend a lifetime warranty so that suggests the manufacture has faith in the product. That's certainly worth something. I personally have only one, an M&P 340, that I really like but don't foresee buying anymore either until they are more proven.

Your 327 PC and 327 TRR8 have triggers and hammers that are forged, since they are from the Performance Center. MIM parts are in no way inferior to the older non MIM parts, that perception is a myth.

As for durability, I have a few scandium framed revolvers (three of them) and they have held up just fine to my level of use. IN particular, my 327 M&P R8 (similar to your TRR8) has seen in excess of 6000 rounds in the last 12 months and is running like a top. At one point the barrel nut became loose, and a quick trip back to the factory resolved that.

All of the scandium guns have Smith and Wesson life time warranty, if it breaks send it back! Smith is great about their warranty and I would shoot and carry away with confidence.

I think the scandium itself is very strong. However, that fact that it is lightweight means that it does not have the recoil absorbing mass of steel and that such recoil is now being transferred to other, possibly less durable or poorly designed areas of the revolver.

It is possible that Scandium is less durable than carbon steel or stainless steel, but the real question is ....... Does it matter?

A large percentage of steel firearms, especially S&Ws last two or three lifetimes. So if a scandium or titanium firearm only lasts one or two lifetimes, is that really an issue to be worried about?

As with any new material or construction technique, things may turn up. S&W will fix them

When stainless revovlers were introduced in the 1960s it was quickly learned that the sear engagement would get ruined after several thousand rounds went through the firearm. So S&W stopped using stainless steel to manufacture triggers and hammers. Problem solved.

Scandium has been around long enough that the little things have already been worked out. How long scandium revolvers will last probably won't be known in our lifetime.

BTW, I have about a dozen scandium revolvers myself. Amazing that an 5" N-frame can weigh in a few ounces lighter than a model 19.

Thanks for your feedback, this is really the information I was looking for. The reason I was ever so slighly worried is I sold my auto's (hk usp45 and glock 17) and decided I wanted nothing but Smith and Wesson revolvers and one carry auto (walther PPS). So now I depend on my revolvers for any posible need that materializes. I also just purchased a full reloading set and the supplies to make about 8,000 38/357 rounds, so Im really locked into this set up.

I totaly understand the comment about the decreased weight transfering recoil to other components, however I cant really imagine what components would be affected but it does seem like a vailid posibilty.

Thanks I do feel more confident in my choices. Im really glad I made the switch back to revolvers, Im a much better shot with my wheel guns and I feel more confident carrying them. I did have to keep my walther PPS the slimness and power of 9rounds of 9mm plus p is pretty hard to let go of.

PS: Hey Colt saa, I noticed you have my favorite the 327pc in your second photo with some rubber grips. I love wood grips but I tend to have a sore webbing if I do my speed drill of two reloads with 24 rounds total with 357. I was about to buy some hogue bantams with a top finger grove to see if I could negate some recoil do you think this is a good idea? How are those rubbers in comparison? do you think some bantams would tame recoil over the factory cocobolo or would rubber be better? I do IWB my 327pc so do your rubber grips stick and are they harder to pull out quickly?

Hi im still pretty fresh here, so hopefully this hasnt been asked a million times before (I couldnt find it on this website).

My question is; are my scandium frame revolvers less durable than a stainless revolver or is it the other was around. Ive been reading from other websites and people continualy comment about the non durability of the scandium/titanium guns. I would love to know how people more informed on Smiths revolvers would call this.

The reason im asking is, I have nothing but scandium frame guns, (weird yes but im not into blue or shinny guns or older models, although I do need to make an exception for the shinny stainless 627 UDR) I have three smiths a M&P 340, 327 pc and a 327 trr8 and I really want to make sure they hold up. I not a serios shooter I run probably about 1,500 through
each of the snubs per year and maybe 500 throught the trr8.

PS: I know these guns have locks and posible MIM parts, I have read everthing about this matter and would apreciate any Lock or MIM comment to be withheld. thanks

Advise or feedback is greatly apreciated

thanks

Dan

Engineering-wise, stainless will be stronger that any aluminum alloy. Application-wise it may not matter.

You can't make a 26oz 44 mag as strong from stainless as you can aluminum alloy and titanium. The application here is a ultra-lightweight carry pistol.

Lets have this discussion in another 5 years and share our experiences. Then we'll know how our scandium frame pistols have held up.

Thanks Colt saa, YOU POCKET CARRY AN 8 SHOT SNUB, those 511 pants must have some serios pockets. how is the recoil managment. I gota say that matched set of snub 45lc's is absolutly awsome. Can you actualy fire them one in each hand? In my forteen years of shooting ive never seen anyone pull off double fisted shooting well but it would be a sight to see.

I just read that the scandium blends into the aluminum increasing its strenght my up to 300%, smith product manager belin said it wasnt the strenght of steel but not that far off.

I can shoot fairly well with my week hand. It is something that I have always practiced.

However, it was not my intent to be a double fisted shooter. The second revovler is the reload.

The is a leather manufacturer that has a holster called the NY Reload. It places two identical firearms on the strong side with their butts facing in opposite directions. That is what inspired me to pick up two of these wheelguns. S&W only made 103 in 45LC. I have just never gotten around to ordering the holster.

The new york reaload is a great looking holster! I used to covet those before I started doing leather work, now I just make whatever I want. I might make myself one of those holsters if I pick up a 627 UDR, I know its not a perfect match for the 327pc but its good enough for me.

I also practive with my weak hand yet I never get anywear close to my strong side profeciency. I can get off all 8 at center mass within 7 yards but its nowhere near as fast and theres nothing resembling a nice grouping. Its good to practice and I should probably do it more often.

Engineering-wise, stainless will be stronger that any aluminum alloy. Application-wise it may not matter.

You can't make a 26oz 44 mag as strong from stainless as you can aluminum alloy and titanium. The application here is a ultra-lightweight carry pistol.

Lets have this discussion in another 5 years and share our experiences. Then we'll know how our scandium frame pistols have held up.

I was rootin around on here looking for threads about Model 329's as I just purchased one. I went on S&W website and found a recall for the 329 from the performance center. Luckily I think anyway mine is a 329 PD. I think I paid a bit too much for it but I think it will be a great woods walker.
I was just reading an article about the scandium Smiths and this metallurgist says there can't be very much scandium in them with its current price around 6000 per kilogram if I am reading this right.

So in light of your lets check back idea, how many rounds have you guys got through your Scandium framed revolvers? I don't plan on shooting thousands of rounds through it but it would be nice to know it won't grenade on me. I have already had a model 29 blow the cylinder and top strap and a chunk of the barrel off, and while no one was hurt, I sure don't want to experience it again.

You get to a point in your life where almost anything you buy will outlast you. I am not sure it matters. My big problem with scandium revolver frames is the cost, not the durability. My big problem with titanium cylinders is the warning about special care required for cleaning the titanium, not the durability - although durability is certainly an issue if the wrong type of cleaning solution or scrubbers are used. If you can get past those issues, then scandium will probably do just fine - perhaps longer than Airweight aluminum, perhaps not as long as carbon or stainless, but who cares?

S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present Thread, Are My scandium framed revolvers less durable? in Smith & Wesson Revolvers; Hi im still pretty fresh here, so hopefully this hasnt been asked a million times before (I couldnt find it ...