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The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 Plus that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 4.

If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6 Plus.

Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction cup jaws.

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, near the home button.

Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

I don't recommend replacing the home button. HOWEVER, I would purchase an iSesamo tool (I paid $8 for a 3 pack on FleaBay) and jam that in between the frame and bezel. Most effective way to open a iPhone. Once you get used to it an iSesamo becomes an extension of your arm.

I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

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Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?

Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

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Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.

When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

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When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

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Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

I had the same issue. My screen quit working and I could feel heat coming through my phone at the earpiece. I took the phone apart again and realized that the data cable for the screen had come loose. When I reattached the data cable and starting working steps 12-18 backwards to replace the shield, as noted in the very last step, I see that youhave to keep the screen at an inclinewhen replacing the shield over the cables. Otherwise, you stretch the display data cable and it can come loose. My screen works fine now and there is no heat coming from my earpiece.

Just completed this repair. My front facing microphone next to the ear piece had gone bad causing siri to not hear me and front facing videos had no sound. Definitely reccomend getting replacement parts from ifixit. Have had good experiences with all their parts unlike many other suppliers on the internet. Hate to admit it (don't want them to raise prices) but even though you pay a little bit more, you save frustration not getting DOA parts from cheaper sources. All of ifixit's parts are top quality and they even pack them in anti-static packaging. That says alot. Thanks ifixit!

After this repair, my screen quit working and I could feel heat coming through my phone at the earpiece. I took the phone apart again and realized that the data cable for the screen had come loose. When I reattached the data cable and starting working steps 12-18 backwards to replace the shield, as noted in the very last step, I see that you have to keep the screen at an incline when replacing the shield over the cables. Otherwise, you stretch the display data cable and it can come loose. My screen works fine now and there is no heat coming from my earpiece.

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My front microphone had completely stopped working exactly a week out of warranty. I replaced the front assembly with a new one from Fixit and afterwards it still did not work. Then I realized the microphone did pick up very soft sound if I shouted directly into it. I eventually repeated the entire disassembly and found a very thin yellow film glued to the microphone grill which had been muffling 97% of the sound. After peeling this off my microphone is working perfectly! I did not notice this on the microphone the first time and assume it was the backing for the self adhesive. Make sure you remove this - it is not obvious to spot!

ave did wrongSo I replaced my iphone 6 plus screen and after i was done my front camera and my earpiece was no longer working. Any advice on what i might have did wrong ? I have another iphone plus to replace the screen and im a little skeptical now. =\

Fantastic instructions! fixed my problem first time. Just be patient and try not to touch anything to roughly. Thanks for the tip from a previous comment saying to remove the yellow piece of film over the microphone. This saved me a lot of hassle. Thanks

Glad to have siri, dictation, sound in videos and hansfree calls back :)

I have followed the directions. However, my screen now has vertical lines all through it. Did I ruin a sensor or did I not connect something right. The touch screen doesn't seem to work anymore either.

You should probably start by disconnecting the battery and re-seating all the display cable connectors (disconnect them and then carefully re-connect them, making sure they snap fully into place). Re-connect the battery and try again. If that doesn't do the trick, post your question in our help forum—you'll get much quicker/better responses there!

Hi everyone. I need help on an iPhone 6 Plus front facing camera not working. But when I take the screen out and put to another iPhone 6 Plus it work. So that mean the not working phone has the logic board problem with front facing camera connector???? I guarantee the facing camera on the screen is worked

Works like a charm. Thanks for the detailed and very clear step-by-step guide. This was my first DIY iPhone repair experience. Took me about 1.5h from start to finish, and I found it essential to have a good lighting.

Step 24 was the trickiest: the microphone portion is strongly glued to the front grill, and one should be careful not to destroy the adhesive, as it will be needed to hold in place the replacement microphone (and, I'm guessing, also to maintain moisture protection after the repair).

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