Approach

The Northeast Ridge (or Spur) itself can also be approached from the Matier Glacier via Joffre Lakes. To get to the Cerise Creek approach, see "Getting There" on the main page. The Cerise Creek trail in summer is a gnarly, rocky, rooted, muddy, mosquito infested trail that takes less than two hours to reach Keith's Hut. There is one short steep rock scramble with a fixed rope to help you up.

Once at Keith's hut, paradise begins, and the slog in becomes worthwile. Continue west alongside the Anniversary Glacier. There are great places to camp here with spectacular views!

Route Description

Staying to the right on the Joffre side of the Anniversary glacier, continue up to the col between Joffre and Matier. Traverse the glacier to the Matier side and continue a little farther west until you can see a clear line up the mountain.

The initial part of this ascent is up a 45° slope up the northeast face of the mountain. At the top of the slope, you will see an exposed ridge heading southwest. Traversing this ridge will take you to the summit.

Essential Gear

You will be traversing the Anniversary Glacier so ice axe, rope, harness, and crevasse rescue equipment are necessary. Snow conditions dictate whether skis, snowshoes or crampons are necessary. In early July, we did the entire route in mountaineering boots and did not need to use our crampons. I would always bring them anyway. We were also able to find a route that didn't cross any crevasses, but you can't bank on that when leaving gear behind. We all wore helmets for the 45°climb and final ridge.