1999 Henri Bourgeois, La Porte Du Caillou, Sancerre ($12.99 on sale at Tanza for $9.99). Floral on the nose with a blast of tropical fruit upfront that caused our host to state, "It's a sweet wine!" Had to explain all about the illusion of sweetness. Lovely finish. We drank as an aperitif, but would marry nicely with a wide variety of light, acidic dishes.

Had another last night with poached sole. It is getting even better. A little less acid and a little more spice. The sole sprinkled with paprika married perfectly. Has to be just about the best value found in a long time.

Sorry, didn't mean to say you had to have an acidic dish with it. But if you had an acidic dish you needed a wine for, this would be a good choice. The sole, as we fixed it was not acidic, but if we had napped it with a light lemony tomato sauce, the wine still would have done it justice.

Had the last of these tonight with smoked chicken parts is parts. Still wonderful. Notice that our friends at WS had lots of nice things to say about the Henri Bourgeois Sancerres. They can be right now & then.