i would love to see this a duel engine set up...i know u did balancing on the weight distribution b4..but with u adding all this sheetmetal and i know ur probaly gonna add more stuff wont u need to do some re balancing.

Your point is well taken, but I'm using very thin (24 ga. ~0.024" thick) sheet metal and it is very light. The entire cover will add approximately 20 lbs. (3 gal. fuel) to the total weight. Believe me, I'm making it as light as possible, and still maintain a reasonable safety factor.

only 6-7k? that doesnt seem to be that much. any idea how much youve spent on raw metal?? and forgive me if you already answered this in one of the 75 pages that i havent read, but how much money are you spending on performance parts?

Raw metal costs, including shear and brake work, is about $350. As for "performance parts", if I assume you mean aftermarket engine performance enhancements, everything is stock, except for a K&N air filter.

I have an Idea that might sound stupid to you but oh well... here it goes. you can modify the the hatch and make it look kinda like a ferrari an engine cover that is see through plexiglass. I dunno if you wanna keep the exterior "stock lookin" but its just an idea.

Dave, Sir, I want to shake your hand. I have read and kept up with this post from day one, but am just getting around to making a post about it. You have taken under the task of the impossible, and are making it possible. You are doing something I'm sure we all wish we could do ourselves if we had the time, money, and most importantly, skills. I can't wait to see this published in a magazine. Then we can all say, "we know that guy!" lol. Best of luck with this project, and future endeavors.

I went to Wilmington last Monday to have the engine cover hood skin made. Unfortunately, Billy Vaughn, at Wilmington Sheet Metal, had fallen ill and was in the hospital. He’s fine now, but I decided to wait until next week. Hopefully he’ll be 100% by then.

In the mean time, I decided to mount the cruise control actuator, which required modification of the stock Prelude bracket to fit the Integra.

That didn’t take too long, so I decided to start on the LSD installation…

…besides, I know how nice it is to look at transmission parts. They’re so pretty!

Original, open diff. on left, torsen LSD from Euro-R on right.

I needed a bearing driver, so I rigged up a “precision” grinder to back cut a relief into an old bearing race to fit over the collar on the diff. I also found an old axle (I think it’s from a lawn mower transmission) to use to drive it on. These pics show how it fits on the open diff. New bearings will be here tomorrow for the LSD.

I wanted to measure the original bearing pre-load on the open diff., so I made this tool from a piece of EMT and an old socket for an adapter.

It reaches down over the spider gear shaft to turn the carrier. According to my measurement method, the starting torque was a little light at 8.5 in.-lbf. (spec is 12 - 23 in.-lbf.) As long as I use the same method to measure pre-load installing the LSD, it should be ok. I just might have to extrapolate the shim chart if I need a different one.

As you all know, the LSD has no spider gear shaft, so I came up with an idea to use a bolt with some washers to adapt a socket to the carrier.

We’ll see how it works.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone, and again, thank you all so much for your support, encouragement, and continued interest!

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