My latest project was to create a base for the TV to sit on so that we could ditch the over large entertainment center and still have somewhere for the DVD player and satillite TV box.This is my 1st attempt at this type of work and while it came out ok, there are some things I learned for next time.

Here is the dry fit after cutting all of the parts:

Yes my work bench is an old door on saw horses, not ideal but does work.And the finished project before installation:

And the project installed, sorry about the crappy quality of the picture (I could go take a new one but I am too lazy):

Oddly enough, despite the front center piece being installed in the EXACT center of the box (I measured it like 5 times) the stupid thing still looks to be off center when compared to the doors on the cabinet below it.

BTW, I would say that my post is probably not a reason to keep this thread sticky

I should note that the finished pictures are how the bathroom started out. When I get the walls repainted I will be putting down some heated flooring and natural slate with a vessel sink. Hopefully I'll get to that part this month.

I should note that the finished pictures are how the bathroom started out. When I get the walls repainted I will be putting down some heated flooring and natural slate with a vessel sink. Hopefully I'll get to that part this month.

If you think from the picture it looks just like a uniformly black box, then it did work out well. Inside is a mid sized amp and some speakers, outside connections are wallplug and a 3.5mm jack. Yes, the cabling to the right is ugly and needs to be redone...The thing has been dubbed "the coffin" by my GF and stands on wheels. You can roll it in front of the house and it doubles as a bench to sit on when the neighborhood sits together for a beer.

Since today it stands closer to the wall than before. There's a hole in the back for the woofer and apparently our furry sovereign went into that, head sticking out, and was making the same face as he does on his potty. He did not do what I was afraid of he did, but no taking chances here...

What I might do once I get the spare time is adding an old Netbook with a touch display as an integrated audio source and also a battery to make it usable without a wall plug.

If you think from the picture it looks just like a uniformly black box, then it did work out well. Inside is a mid sized amp and some speakers, outside connections are wallplug and a 3.5mm jack. Yes, the cabling to the right is ugly and needs to be redone...The thing has been dubbed "the coffin" by my GF and stands on wheels. You can roll it in front of the house and it doubles as a bench to sit on when the neighborhood sits together for a beer.

Since today it stands closer to the wall than before. There's a hole in the back for the woofer and apparently our furry sovereign went into that, head sticking out, and was making the same face as he does on his potty. He did not do what I was afraid of he did, but no taking chances here...

What I might do once I get the spare time is adding an old Netbook with a touch display as an integrated audio source and also a battery to make it usable without a wall plug.

Internally there's small compartments on the left and right and big one in the middle.The sub is in the middle, along with the amp, the PSU and some excess space. Left and right, and also pointing left and right, are the other speakers, hidden under the cloth.

Trying to get an O-Navi sensor working in Debian on a Raspberry Pi is currently kicking my ass. When that's up and running, a custom case will be designed and I'll be working on getting a wireless adapter installed. A battery/solar charger setup will be designed as well.

Basically, the circuit kit uses a PIC microcontroller to do the bulk of the multiplexing and for the additional functions, and then uses a Nixie driver IC, along with a few amplification transistors, to output the correct voltage (150VDC, 2mA) to each tube. There are 6 anode connections, and each number inside the tube is a cathode, so there are a total of 10 cathodes in each tube.

The kit itself is a pretty slick thing - comes with all the components and a very well marked up board so that you can easily identify what parts go where. The guide also is very well written for it, and the additional features it has are surprisingly useful. It can do time sync via GPS or via radio, you an adjust the clock if it's running fast or slow by .2s increments, you have the option to use it for showing the date, there's an alarm you can set, it has built-in an algorithm for eliminating cathode poisoning, etc.

It was a bit tough getting the wiring put into the wood - I had a 1/2" postholing bit that I used to drill from the mount points of the tubes into the wiring pocket I had to hollow out in the back of the clock. Overall, about 100 feet of cabling put into this clock, 22ga wire - I could *barely* squeeze the wiring through the channels, but barely still works .

I own a house near Fenwick Island Beach in Delaware and what's a beach house without and old convertible? The '72 Mercury Cougar I bought on eBay runs pretty good with the 351-2V Cleveland but I'm thinking of a new Edelbrock intake manifold and 4-barrel carburetor with a nice dual exhaust of course. Even though it's not a real muscle car, it got a lot of attention at the two Ocean City car shows I took it to. There was only one other Cougar at the two shows (not a convertible) and literally hundreds of Mustangs, Camaros, Chevelles, etc. A real nice cruiser, and with a 40+ year old car there always some project hidden under there somewhere. Oh yeah, I also want to rebuild the front end and ..................................

Don't have the documentation for it here, all the car stuff is at the Beach house in Delaware. With the 2 barrel it's pretty weak on HP, but has nice torque. The 351 Cleveland can be worked to over 400 HP but I have no reason to do that. Down by the beach, the speed limits mostly go from 25 mph 40 mph going up to just 55 mph between beach communities. The car only has 56K original miles and was kept garaged all it's life. The glass window in the convertible top has still has a sticker from 1978 for military base in Indiana. It's got the sequential turn signal that Ford just brought back for the Mustang - originally back in the 60s and 70s they were exclusive to T-Birds and Cougars. The top is in really nice shape and the motor works fine. I keep it down all summer with a tonneau cover on and put the top up for winter storage.

Oh, and one more thing. They are a good choice for classic car project because you can pick them up cheap, and all the mechanical parts are shared with the Mustang so parts are readily available and cheap!

Don't have the documentation for it here, all the car stuff is at the Beach house in Delaware. With the 2 barrel it's pretty weak on HP, but has nice torque. The 351 Cleveland can be worked to over 400 HP but I have no reason to do that. Down by the beach, the speed limits mostly go from 25 mph 40 mph going up to just 55 mph between beach communities. The car only has 56K original miles and was kept garaged all it's life. The glass window in the convertible top has still has a sticker from 1978 for military base in Indiana. It's got the sequential turn signal that Ford just brought back for the Mustang - originally back in the 60s and 70s they were exclusive to T-Birds and Cougars. The top is in really nice shape and the motor works fine. I keep it down all summer with a tonneau cover on and put the top up for winter storage.

Oh, and one more thing. They are a good choice for classic car project because you can pick them up cheap, and all the mechanical parts are shared with the Mustang so parts are readily available and cheap!

Gotta love Ford for that . I used to own a '63 galaxie, and the shop manual for that and the '63 monterey was literally the same manual.

Ford was notorious for re-using parts or keeping an identical design for years. the FE engine, of which the 351C is one, was largely unchanged from '59 through '75. Many parts are just bolt-on pieces that can be interchanged with no major modifications across that entire period too - one popular conversion for older Fords is to make the front brakes disc brakes instead of drum, and all that's required is an 80s era front brake set from a Crown Vic, and you make one hole on the A-arm that's 1/8th of an inch over from the orignal hole, and that's it. Everything else is bolt-on.

Mine came from the factory with front discs, so no need to change that. The previous owner had changed the shoes in the rear drum brakes, but left the old drums so they weren't even touching. After installing some new ones, the brakes are really pretty good. I immediately replaced the front and rear shocks since they were gone with Monroe load levelers with spring shocks on the rear. So now is sits nice, rides smooth even with two heavies in the rear seats. New wheels and tires were a necessity of course!

It was an interesting project to do - especially the mock-up and measuring to ensure the sub would fit in the wheel and then get it located correctly in the enclosure. Great way to learn fiber-glassing .... all self taught off youtube haha. I found some TAFE/College lecturess on there by a professional which were great (and shit-canned the majority of the other videos of guys doing DIY glassing for cars lol).

The enclosure design was easy as it's sealed. Much good luck too in terms of the perfect height and things fitting together with the space for a full depth driver rather than a doof-doof sub with no range ad all boom.

Rest of thesetup is an amp and equaliser to sort out the in-car dynamics as much as possible. VW ship to Australia with pathetic options .... unless you are a soccer mum buying an SUV in which case you get the awesome audio options.... go figure.

Most of my other changes are just small.... plate metal foot rests, improved LED lighting internally etc. No major changes to the mechanicals though I have considered going stage II or III. I can't justify the money though for the amount and type of driving I do now. Maybe if I lived in Europe with autobhans .

Ahh ok, so not too much crazy with the rest of the audio build? I haven't ever done any fiberglassing myself, but a friend has done a nice job on his two cars (I'd link to his DIYMA builds, but they're not mine, so that feels not relevant enough). The active EQ stuff has come a long way recently, too!

Ahh ok, so not too much crazy with the rest of the audio build? I haven't ever done any fiberglassing myself, but a friend has done a nice job on his two cars (I'd link to his DIYMA builds, but they're not mine, so that feels not relevant enough). The active EQ stuff has come a long way recently, too!