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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

I finally decided to make a Cyndaquil. It's my starter pokemon in HeartGold, and I really do love it :D

The flames on the back are made a little differently, but it's not hard to do. If you have any questions or find any problems with the pattern, please let me know and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.

Cyndaquil

Materials

WW Yarn yellow , blue, red and gold (or a light orange)

G Hook

Black Embroidery thread

Fiberfill

Yarn Needle

NOTES:

Gauge is not very important as long as your hook and yarn choice results in a consistent stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from coming through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

HEAD and BODY:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 13: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Begin stuffing here, stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress down the body.

Rnd 16: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 17: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 18: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 19-21: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 22: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 23-30: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 31: sc next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 32: sc next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 33: sc next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 34: sc next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 35: sc next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 36: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body. Weave end through final round and gently pull to close opening. Secure and weave in ends.

SNOUT:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)

Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)

Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Rnd 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 8: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 12 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16)

Rnd 9: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 14 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 11: 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of next 14 sc, 2 sc in each of last 2 sc (22)

F/O. Stuff snout firmly to shape. Pin to front of head with ‘longer’ end close to the neck portion of the body. (see images for help with placement). Sew securely to head. Add any stuffing around the edges as you sew if you see the need for it to help the snout maintain its shape.

STRIPE:

(using blue)

Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch. (2)

Row 2: sc in both sc (2)

Row 3: 2 sc in each of sc across (4)

Row 4-6: sc in each sc across (4)

Row 7: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Row 8-10: sc in each sc across (6)

Row 11: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)

Row 12: sc in each sc across (8)

Row 13: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)

Row 14-24: sc in each sc across (10)

Row 25: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Row 26-34: sc in each sc across (12)

Row 35: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

Row 36: sc in each sc across (14)

Row 37: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 12 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16)

Row 38: sc in each sc across (16)

Row 39: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 14 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18)

Row 40-50: sc in each sc across (18)

Row 51: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 14 sc, dec over last 2 sc (16)

Row 52: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 12 sc, dec over last 2 sc (14)

Row 53: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 10 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12)

Row 54: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 8 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10)

Row 55: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)

Row 56: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6)

Row 57: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4)

F/O. Weave in ends.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)

Begin Shoulder:

sc in next 6 sc, (leave remaining sc unworked) turn (6)

dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across, turn (5)

dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across (4)

F/O. Weave in ends. Stuff arm firmly while shaping.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)

Rnd 5-8: sc in each sc around (21)

Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 10: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Begin stuffing here if you haven’t already. Stuff moderately firmly (you’ll need to be able to slightly flatten this part of the leg when sewing it to the body, so don’t over-stuff)

Rnd 11: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O and add any stuffing needed to finish the shape. Do not close the opening.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring, join with slip stitch to first sc of round to form circle (6)

Rnd 2: In same sc as joining, ch1, sc, dc, sc; slip stitch in next sc

F/O. Weave in ends and sew the foot to the opening of the leg. Foot is sewn with round 1 over the opening, leaving rnd 2 ‘free’ for the ‘toes’

FLAMES:

RED flame (make 2)

The flames are made with a base, and randomly placed points. First, make your base which is more or less a ‘half circle’:

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Turn (6)

Row 2: 2 hdc in each hdc across, turn (12)

Row 3: hdc in first hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc across , ending with 2 hdc in last stitch, turn (18)

Row 4: repeat row 3 (24)

Do not fasten off. Begin making the points. Add your points randomly from the sizes below. When you reach the end of your row, add whatever point will fit nicely there. Try to vary the sizes across the base, so that the effect is more like an ‘explosion’ rather than a contrived or patterned look.

The points are made as such, there are several different ‘sizes’ that I used. I tried several patterns of points, but they all looked too stiff and un-natural. I found that randomly adding the points gave a far nicer ‘explosion’ look. The different sizes of points I used are as follows:

1: Ch 5. Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch. Skip 2 stitches on the base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

2: Ch 6. Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, trbl in last ch. Skip 3 stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

3: Ch 8. Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, dc in each of next 2 chs, trbl in last ch. Skip three stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

Experiment with different random patterns of the points until you are happy with how it looks.

After making the last point, F/O and weave in ends. (the points will want to curl some, that’s normal and adds to the ‘effect’… but I did use an iron to ‘VERY GENTLY’ press the points with a little spray starch so that they wouldn’t curl too tightly. If you don’t have an iron that’s ok, you can just pull the points straight… they’ll curl back up, but if you pull them out several times, over time the points will relax and stay a good bit straighter.

GOLD flame (make 2)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Turn (6)

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc across, turn (12)

Row 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc across , ending with 2 sc in last stitch, turn (18)

Here again, use the same points described above to create a random pattern on each of the Gold bases in the same manner as for the red ones. This is basically the same as the red flame, just smaller.

Place the 2 red flames together with ‘wrong’ sides to the inside, sew them together along the ‘domed’ base leaving the points free and the bottom ‘edge’ open. (just sew along the row 4 of the base)

Take one of the gold flames, and place in front of one side of the red flames (as shown in the pictures) and sew along the base around the domed part attaching it that side of the red flame. Repeat on the other side with the other gold flame.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Carefully pin the blue stripe to the body beginning at the tip of the nose pin along the snout, over the head (pulling slightly at the neck to keep it taught as you pin) then pin across the back to the bottom end of the body. Take care to keep it straight and taught across the head/body as you pin.

When you’re pleased with the position of the stripe, sew it carefully and securely removing the pins as you go, and making sure that you keep it taught, straight and even down the body.

Place the arms as shown on the front of the body (the ‘shoulder’ will allow you to place the arms facing forward instead of straight out. Pin to the body and adjust as needed. When you’re happy with how they look, sew them securely to the body.

Determine which leg goes on each side (making sure ‘toes’ face forward) and gently flatten the side of the leg that will be against the body. Pin to the body as shown in the pictures, adjust as needed. When you’re happy with the placement and position of the legs, sew them securely to the body.

Eyes are embroidered as shown using a back stitch. Nostrils are just a couple of whip stitches placed at the end of the nose as shown.

Place and pin the flames as shown down the center of the back of the body. You may wish to add a very small amount of stuffing inside the base (dome) of the red flames to give it a little more ‘size’, but that’s optional. Be certain the flames are centered and straight. Sew carefully and securely to the body, removing the pins as you go, and making sure it doesn’t get off–center as you sew.

Cyndaquil and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Oh! I just love your plushies. :) I'm trying to make all of them! I made my first one (mario) and I'm very pleased with the way he turned out! A little girl is really going to enjoy him. Quite a few people have asked me if there's a charmander pattern... If you were looking for a new pokemon to do, I might suggest him. :) I think I'm going to make a sonic now! My boyfriend loves the pattern!!

I just started making one, and I was wondering - how far down does the stripe go? I'm already at row 53, and the stripe is about one inch from the circle at the bottom. It might just be because the yarn I used for the stripe is just a teeny bit thicker than the yarn I used for the body, but I just wanted to check.

Yes, if you use a thicker yarn for one part of a doll, that part will be bigger. You will probably want to pin the piece as you have it to the doll and see how it's fitting, chances are, you're going to need to go back to the beginning and make adjustments on it. It's probably going to be too *wide* as well, so you'll have to make some adjustments in how many stitches across.

It's generally always best to use the same exact type of yarn for all the parts, (unless otherwise indicated in a pattern). That's so that all the parts and pieces remain consistent. :D

I've gone back and counted and recounted, and the count I have is the same as it's written. My thinking is that my tension is just tighter than other peoples, and this is going to make a much greater difference in the 'rows' than in rounds. You will probably then need to 'adjust' the stripe as needed to fit on your doll (based on your individual tension and crochet style) Sometimes it just requires making a few little changes to fit the style that each person has :D

Well, I've been crocheting for more than 35 years :D There are some great places online to learn how to crochet, you can type 'learn to crochet' in your search bar and find hundreds of places to check out. There are *many* video lessons on youtube as well and those are often very helpful at teaching. :D

I would recommend learning how to read crochet patterns, you'll find that helpful while mastering different techniques :D

I absolutely LOVE your patterns. My husband and his friend are pokemon crazy. So I was planning on starting with Cyndaquil but I am having a lot of trouble. I keep messing up his neck/body. I have tried 3 times and they all still really bad. Any tips on getting to look better? I followed the pattern as best as I could.

hmm, hard to say without more specific information about the problem. But in general, if you watch your stitch count (using the numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row, it is your best bet. Remember though, yarn choice, hook choice and individual tension can create some differences, so you might need to make small adjustments. :D

I think I found a slight typo in the pattern for the tail...For every row at the beginning, you tell how many hdc to make, and then turn. ie, "2 hdc in each hdc across, turn". Shouldn't it be ch2 and turn?

Great crochet creations! I have a question on Cyndaquil. So far every thing is coming along great except for I just got stuck on the red flames. At the end of row 3 it says I should have 18 and then to repeat row 4 and at the end I should have 24 but that math doesn't work out? Shouldn't it be 27 or am I not understanding row 4?

Yes it should say 27. I don't know how that typo stayed there for so long without anyone mentioning it... LOL. (That's the kind of mistake I make when I'm typing late into the night when probably should be sleeping :) )

This time I'm posting for my sister. She"s having trouble with the stripe. When she does it it comes out to narrow. Oh, you've been ignoring me about the snivy. So can you. You haven't answered at all. It's a simple yes or no question.

It's common with this type of crochet, for certain items to come out smaller or larger than someone else's. This is because different yarns, hooks and each crocheter's individual tension can make a considerable difference in the overall results. It's possible a small adjustment will be needed by adding a stitch or two to the stripe where it seems to be too narrow.

As to the snivy. I have posted dozens and dozens of times... I make these patterns in my free time. I generally use yarns leftover from work projects or yarn that I happen to have. I can tell you that snivy is on my list...the list is long. I'm currently working on several free patterns that will be coming up over the next few weeks (the first one in a few days or so)...and then after that, it will greatly depend once again on what I have here.

I'd just like to say a massive thank you for all your wonderful patterns - they've been true inspiration for an amateur crocheter like me! I'm halfway throught the Cydnaquil pattern which I've found really fun to make. I think I've got the crochet basics down now, the only problem I seem to have is making things up properly. I don't really know any proper sewing techniques so things look messy with stuffing sticking out etc! Do have any hints or tips for how I could improve? Or perhaps a website that might help? Thanks again, it's really appreciated!

Thank you for posting this! :D I actually crocheted it back in May, and I just haven't had the chance to add my thanks and post a picture of how mine came out. XD So...thanks again! It was fun to make! And the friend I made it for absolutely loved it! Here's mine:http://www.flickr.com/photos/marisalynn25/5980531248/in/photostream/

Thank you so much for your patterns! I just finished Cyndaquil for my son's friend as a Christmas gift. When my son took a look at the finished product, he said, "Wow! It looks just like the real thing!" I so appreciate the work you've put into these patterns, and so does my son!

Used this pattern to make one for my son. He adores it! Thank you for making all these pokemon patterns. I'm trying to piece together shapes to make a convincing Gyarados next. Not many out there brave enough to write a pattern for that one ;)

I LOVE your things!I have been following your pokemon creations for a long time now and you've been my inspiration crochet-wise. I started following your patterns and got inspired to do my own and even create my own blog :)Thanks for being awesome :D <3

I LOVE your things!I have been following your pokemon creations for a long time now and you've been my inspiration crochet-wise. I started following your patterns and got inspired to do my own and even create my own blog :)Thanks for being awesome :D <3

Hi, I love your crochet pokemon so much that I just HAD to start making them :D! I already made pikachu (I kinda made up my own pattern for him because I didn't find your website yet before I made him), and now im making cyndaquil cause it's my favorite pokemon lol and i'm following your pattern for it and it's turning out great! thank u so much and keep up the good work :D

Lol love ud pokemon hoping when I am good as you aljost I will maks some of my own for friend niko with pokeball to keep pokemon inside love ur work keep it up could you make a swablu easy small pokemon for a pro like you

I love you patterns so much! it's really helping me out with practice and free time and I just wanted to thank you for all the patterns you make, I am a huge Pokemon fan (first and second gen are the best) and it's cool that I can make my favorite Pokemon and take a break from trying to hatch a shiny Eevee!

First of all, Thank you for the time you take to post these patterns for us to try. I loved the Jolteon and made it with great ease. However, I am trying the Cyndaquil and I am having difficulty when it comes to the legs. I have taken it apart 4 times now. I follow the directions around and it is too big....follow number of stitches only and comes out too small. Like rounds 5-8 where it says to go sc around but only 21 stitches. Please help! Julia

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