Ivydene Gardens Photo RV Roger Roses 2 Gallery:Page 17 has photos of Roses from the rose rv roger july 21-25 2014 Folder taken on 25 May 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger.

Photos taken by Chris Garnons-Williams using a digital camera in the original size and as a thumbnail. These can used in the Public Domain for educational purposes in schools, or at home, to:-

Assist in selecting a plant.

To be used in providing details of plants and their colours for use in a painting,

in Jewellery,

in the shape of plants in stone, metal or ceramic statuary,

pictures on homemade greetings cards, or

posters for display on walls at home.

Row 1 has the Pass-Through Camera image of Thumbnail image named in Row 2 and is usually 4000 x 3000 pixels.

Row 2 has same image reduced to fit the image frame of 160 x 120 pixels as a Passthrough Thumbnail to show all of the Camera Image. This image has been reduced to 72 pixels per inch by Freeway before I stored it as a Passthrough image for use both here (from August 2019) and as the image in Plant with Photo Index of Ivydene Gardens A 1 Gallery.

Click on either image and drag to your desktop. Then you can crop the Pass-Through Camera image to obtain the particular detail that you require from that image, before using that cropped result in your endeavour.

Copying the pages and then clicking on the images to drag them may not work.

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Ballerina' IMG 9400.JPGtaken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Ballerina' IMG 9401.JPGtaken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Ballerina' IMG 9404.JPGtaken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Ballerina' IMG 9407.JPGtaken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Barbara Stack' IMG 8358.JPG - Floribundataken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams.See details in index of Rose Other A-F Roses Gallery, where it used is for bedding, to grow in pots and as a cut-flower.

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Barbara Stack' IMG 8351.JPGtaken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Barbara Stack' IMG 8353.JPGtaken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Barbara Stack' IMG 8357.JPGtaken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Barbara Stack' IMG 8359.JPGtaken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Barbara Stack' IMG 8360.JPGtaken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is Rosa 'Barbara Stack' IMG 8362.JPGtaken on 21-25 July 2014 at the Rose Nursery of RV Roger by Chris Garnons-Williams

I have copied the archived post below, because what is stated there is extremely important, since 99.99% of gardeners in the UK totally ignore the fact that plants require humus and think that double-digging is beneficial every year. That is why they are killing their soil and their plants do not grow well.

"Nature’s plan is to build up the humus year after year and this can only be done by organic matter. There is need to replace and return that which has been taken out. The Chinese, who are the best gardeners, collect, ‘use’, and return to the soil, every possible kind of waste, vegetable, animal and human. In over 4000 years of intensive cultivation they still support more human beings per hectare than any other country in the world! On the other hand in areas like the Middle West of the U.S.A. And the Regina Plain of Canada, where the Wheel of Life has not been recognized, tens of thousands of hectares which once grew heavy crops are now useless, or practically so.

Every flower crop grown reduces the organic content of the ground. Every piece of work done helps to break down the humus. The value of the soil in your garden, therefore, is not the mica particles or grains of sand. It lies in the humus that the soil contains. Humus makes all the difference to successful gardening. Have plenty of humus present and the soil is in good tilth. Humus is the organic colloid of the soil. It can store water, it can store plant foods, it can help to keep the soil open. It can help to ensure the right aeration. It will give ideal insulation against heat and cold.

Using Compost

Garden owners proposing to dig their land shallowly in preparation for flower growing, should realize the importance of adding ample quantities of organic matter before they start. Composted farmyard manure, fine wool shoddy, properly composted vegetable refuse, or hop manure should be added at the rate of one good barrow-load to 10 m2 (12 sq yds) and in addition into the top 25 or 50 mm (1 or 2 in) of soil finely divided sedge peat, non-acid in character should be raked in at about half a bucketful (9 litres) per square metre (2 gallons per sq yd). This organic matter in the top few millimetres of soil gives the little roots a good start and so sends them on to find the organic matter below.

It is when the organic content of the soil has been helped in this way, that the gardener dares to add plant foods of an organic origin. These are usually applied on the surface of the ground and raked in. Fertilizers with an organic base are particularly useful. Fish Manure may be applied at 105 to 140 g/m2 (3 oz to 4 oz per sq yd), or a meat and bone meal or even hoof and horn meal mixed with equal quantities of wood ashes may be used at a similar rate. These plant foods can be supplied not only when the flower garden is first made but every season very early in the spring. A good dried poultry manure to which a little potash has been added is another fertilizer that is very useful when applied at this time.

Minimum Digging

Flower growers must realize that proper soil treatment is the first essential to success. The millions and millions of soil bacteria that live in the ground to help the gardener, much appreciate little or no digging. It enables them to work better, for they need conditions which are natural. So do give them what they need.

Liming

Lime should be regarded as an essential except in very definite cases where acidity is demanded, e.g. the heaths and heathers, rhododendrons and azaleas.

Lime not only prevents soil from being acid but it ‘sweetens’ it, as well as playing its part as a plant food. It improves the texture and workability of heavy soils. It helps to release other plant foods, and it decomposes organic compounds in the soil so that they can be used as plant food also.

Generally speaking it should be applied at about 245 g/m2 (7 oz per sq yd). It should not be dug in, as it washes down into the soil very quickly. It should be sprinkled on the surface of the ground after the digging and manuring has been done. Do not mix lime with organic fertilizers. There are three main types of lime: Quicklime, sometimes sold as Buxton Lime or Lump Lime, which has to be slaked down on the soil; Chalk or Limestone, often sold as Ground Limestone, only half as valuable as quicklime; and Hydrated Lime, which is perhaps the most convenient to handle and is therefore most usually used by gardeners.The quantity of lime mentioned previously i.e. 245 g/m2 (7 oz per sq yd), refers to hydrated lime."

The following is the opinion of Chris Garnons-Williams to the above:-

If you walk through an old wooded area, which is not intensively managed, you will see dead leaves on the ground, together with fallen branches, brambles, nettles, other weeds and juvenile plants. There will be waste material from birds and animals and this has not been cleared up and disposed of. This mulch then provides the organic material to be recycled via the ground with its different organisms to the roots of those same trees for them to continue to grow. Nobody digs up the ground to push this material in a few inches or to the depth of the topsoil, nature does it with earthworms and other organisms at the rate required by the organisms down below to then use it. The trees in this wood then grow fairly uniformly using the available resources.

So, do not dig the manure, wool shoddy, vegetable refuse or hop manure or anything else in. Leave it on top as a mulch and that includes the organic fertilizers and the lime.Instead of adding finely divided sedge peat, add spent mushroom compost which contains peat which has already been used; and so you are using their waste product for recycling, instead of destroying more peat bogs which have taken 1000's of years to be created. You could use bracken instead of peat.

The topsoil is full of organisms, either the waste products from are used by another or they are. If you turn them up from the bottom of the topsoil to the top, then those new top ones will starve to death and the ones who were at the top are now at the bottom and they will as well since it is only waste down there which is not their normal fare. They do have a bus transport system to get them back to their original levels, since water is the only transport system down there, which unfortunately normally goes downwards.

So why do you not use the companion planting cultivation method as further detailed in Companion Planting? You may follow this with the following which is normally used for the vegetable garden:-

"Spinach is sown in spring in rows 50cm apart over the whole vegetable garden area for the following purposes:

these rows divide the vegetable garden up for the whole year,

the spinach roots prevent erosion, so the usual paths between beds are omitted,

young spinach plants provide protection and shade for the vegetable crops to be grown between them,

spinach provides ideal material for sheet surface composting, which becomes an intermediate space, a footpath, and

it is in between these lines of spinach that the other vegetable varieties are arranged."

This could be used in the flower beds as the system between the permanent plants of trees, shrubs and perennials, which is where you may put bedding. This will also provide you with access to the bedding and the permanent plants together with the nitrogen fertilizer for the other plants from the legumes of spinach. You plant your bedding, bulbs or vegetables through the mulch between the lines of spinach. The damage you do to where you plant is fairly quickly repaired by the organisms in the surrounding soil, who each come into the level below the ground level where they normally reside, until they meet their relatives onthe other side of the planting hole. The ecosystem is then restored.

Click on thumbnail to change this Comparison Page to the Plant Description Page of the Bedding Plant named in the Text box below that photo.

The Comments Row of that Bedding Plant Description Page details where that Bedding Plant is available from.

Bedding Plant INDEX .

See also the Bedding Plant INDEX of the Bedding in the Mixed Borders of the Royal Horticultural Society Garden at Wisley in 2013. This gallery also compares the Flower Colours, Foliage Colours, Bedding Use and Flower Shape of the bedding plants in those Mixed Borders.

Topic - Camera Photo Galleries showing all 4000 x 3000 pixels of each photo on your screen that you can then click and drag to your desktop:-