Enrique Olvera Brings His Genius to Oaxaca, Mexico

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Sardines with chilhuacle powder at Criollo, a new restaurant by the chef Enrique Olvera.CreditCreditAraceli Paz

By Shaun Pett

Jan. 27, 2017

Though helmed by one of the great chefs of the world in one of the great food capitals of the world, Criollo doesn’t advertise its presence. Tucked away from the historic center, it has no sign or website, despite being opened since July. Perhaps it doesn’t need the added attention; it’s the work of three high-wattage partners: that chef, Enrique Olvera (Pujol in Mexico City, Cosme in New York); Luis Arellano, another chef; and the architect Javier Sánchez.

For Mr. Olvera, a native of Mexico City, the restaurant is a way to return to his roots. And for Mr. Arellano, it’s a homecoming after working as “head of creativity” for Mr. Olvera.

Once you do find the restaurant, in an old colonial mansion, the entrance leads you through the kitchen and into a tranquil courtyard dining room. There’s Piaf and Simone on the soundtrack, and tables run along the edges of the courtyard. Mr. Sánchez’s modern touches — a concrete awning, minimalist wood furniture — add a refined touch, while a clay comal, where a cook makes tortillas, speaks to the humbler origins of the cuisine.

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CreditAraceli Paz

Though there’s the complexity and creativity of Pujol on display in the seven-course tasting menu (as well as the great weekend brunch), Mr. Arellano’s cooking aims to satisfy as comfort food does, with dishes served family style. “I think Criollo is our anchor in tradition and in Mexican food,” said Mr. Olvera, who worked with Mr. Arellano on the concept, but otherwise is a respectfully silent partner.

During a recent visit, the menu distilled and played with Oaxacan staples: a simple and delicious tamale filled with huitlacoche, a fungus often called Mexican corn truffle; a taco packed with the surprise of wild greens. Mullet, a fish, featured the sweet and spicy Caribbean flavors of the Isthmus region and the chichilo mole of beef dug through layers of burned chiles. Desserts were no less memorable, with a feather-light ice granizada of pineapple and coconut followed by a deep-fried hot pocket of creamy maiz.

The concise drinks list features local beer and wine from Baja California, but the small-batch mezcals are a revelation for their food friendliness. One, distilled with the saddle of a rabbit, paired wonderfully with the sweet earthiness of the tamale.

As satisfying as the food is, Criollo aims to be more: There’s a planned garden in the back that will grow everything from maize to coffee, and the restaurant will act as a training facility for Pujol’s cooks to learn the Oaxacan ethos. SHAUN PETT