Although service here is fast and courteous — water was always refilled before requested — the kitchen seemed slow, particularly when Fulvio Jr. was not around. On both visits, my guest and I waited more than 20 minutes between some courses.

The long wait was intended, Sardelli said later. "We're not trying to turn and burn," he explained. "It is supposed to be an experience that may last an hour or two."

Sardelli Jr. said regulars make up about 80 percent of his business, and most of them don't even bother to look at the menu anymore. "They come in and say, 'Fulvio, cook for me,' " he says, "and I cook them four-, five-, six-, and seven-course meals."

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When you say: "This broccoli, also called broccoli rabe, is more bitter than the traditional spears," you are not comparing rapini to actual broccoli? The two are not related, although they share the word "broccoli" the rapini is actually of the turnip family, while broccoli is more closey related to cabbage. My point? Don't compare the two in reference to taste and texture -- that's like comparing apples to oranges. A food critic should know this.