Thread: Clay like soil

Another option in dealing with clay soils is to use a soil conditioner. We use a product called Aqua-Save. Conditioners work by altering soil chemistry, in this case allowing water to be absorbed by the soil rather than repelled at the surface. In combination with other procedures (aeration, dethatching, ...) it helps eliminate many of the problems associated with clay soils.

I do not claim to have any type of degree in the chemistry of soil. In saying that, I am learning as I go, and this post has grabed my attention. Reason being: there is a whole lot of clay in this area, I mean so bad, I could probably sell it to walmart as molding clay. I have talked to many people in the business asking them about how to resolve the problem and all that I have heard so far is fertilizer and lime. But, I know that soil is like any ecosystem, and needs many factors to be at its best.

Well sorry about the lengthy opening. My question to those of you that might really be able to teach me somthing. (in this posting, it is mentioned to add organic material and sand to the existing clay then combine) well, what do you mean about the organic material? What exactly are you using and how are you using it? Where do you obtain this organic material?

Horticulture Gypsum not lime will break down clay. But this can take years and repeated applications. Alway fertilizer about 5 day after applying Gypsum. no I am not going into a chem lesson here.

SOM (Soil Organic Matter) is anything Organic in the soil. This can be old roots from plants slothing old roots. or decomposed plant clipping, etc. However your question is what to use. Soil analysis can tell you a lot. However organic material (the parent to Organic Matter) is a matter of economic. Compost, Peat Humus, reed Sedge Humus, Sphagnum peat moss, sawdust, and manure are all sources of organic material.

In my area the horticulture dump grinds the plants clipping and resells it. I buy it for $ 10.00 loading fee 14 yard loads. I take it back and dump it on the ground and put 46-0-0 on top of it so it composts faster. I also turn it over every now and again to keep air in it. This is a very cheap source of organic material.

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it is one thing to do a off label applications. It is total stupidity to post it on the world wide web and expect people to approve.

Chad - I have quite a bit of experience with the clay soil you are describing. Fertilizer and lime won't help your situation much. I took 12" of compost and spread it over the clay. I then plowed the compost in ( a roto-tiller would only scratch the surface). This was repeated every year, spring and fall, for 5 years. I also added gypsum every spring. After 5 yrs., this soil is now a very nice clay loam that is easy to work in. I should mention that this was done in an area to make a garden, not a lawn, but the same principal could be done with an existing lawn if the lawn is aerated then topdressed with compost. As TimTurf mentioned, DO NOt and sand to clay - you'll end up with soil as hard as concrete. Once you've added quite a bit of compost to the clay however, you may add some sand. TimTurf, Ric, and GroundKpr are the most knowledgeable on this site when it comes to soils. Follow their advice.

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Mike
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Originally posted by ztoro if you read the whole post you will notice in the 4th post I say "I live in New JErsey......"

Therefore "My Desk" is in NJ

Take the time to read my posts...

Take a second and fill out the profile correct. I don't have time to sort thru all your post trying to figure out where you are from, I missed the NJ. A quick glance in the profile will let people know and they can help you with your problem. I read your first post and know what your issue is, just wanted to make sure correct advise was given.

However, if you think it's my job to sort thru and find it then, well....keep waiting.