The 17th arrondissement of Paris lies slightly off the beaten path, directly north of the Arc de Triumph. However, if you want to see real Paris at some of its finest and wealthiest, this is where to go. There are no major sights to see, museums to go to, just amazing Haussmannian architecture, real French people, and that atmosphere of the quintessential Paris you've always imagined.

+

The 17th arrondissement of Paris lies slightly off the beaten path, directly north of the Arc de Triomphe. However, if you want to see real Paris at some of its finest and wealthiest, this is where to go. There are no major sights to see, museums to go to, just amazing Haussmannian architecture, real French people, and that atmosphere of the quintessential Paris you've always imagined.

Beyond this the south-western and north-eastern ends of the arrondissement have quite different characters, with the south-western mainly known as a midrange to high-end shopping district named for two major avenues which are lined with shops: ''Wagram-Ternes'', feeling much like an extension of the Champs Élysées.

Beyond this the south-western and north-eastern ends of the arrondissement have quite different characters, with the south-western mainly known as a midrange to high-end shopping district named for two major avenues which are lined with shops: ''Wagram-Ternes'', feeling much like an extension of the Champs Élysées.

−

The north-eastern end, known as ''Batignolles'' is quite different with a grungy bohemian feeling and lots of bars and bistros which are popular with ''BoBos'' (short for ''bohemian-bourgeois'' aka "hipsters") from the 17th and elsewhere.

+

The north-eastern end, known as ''Batignolles'' is quite different with a grungy bohemian feeling and lots of bars and bistros which are popular with ''BoBos'' (short for ''bohemian-bourgeois'', a social group as fascinating for the observer than the "hipster" population) from the 17th and elsewhere.

==Get in==

==Get in==

Line 19:

Line 19:

The '''Parc Monceau''' is one of Paris's best kept secrets, painted by Monet numerous times. It is a very elegant centre of green in the middle of cosmopolitan Paris. Make sure you check out the statues, entrance rotunda and the surrounding mansions. Thanks to Haussmann himself this precious slice of parkland was reserved for the enjoyment and leisure of the people of Paris. It is unusual in France due to its casual, informal "English" style planning, and is a contrast to other Parisian parks such as the classically laid out and formal Luxemburg Gardens and the Tuileries. Randomly placed throughout the park are scaled-down architectural replicas including an Egyptian pyramid, Dutch windmill, and a Chinese fort.

The '''Parc Monceau''' is one of Paris's best kept secrets, painted by Monet numerous times. It is a very elegant centre of green in the middle of cosmopolitan Paris. Make sure you check out the statues, entrance rotunda and the surrounding mansions. Thanks to Haussmann himself this precious slice of parkland was reserved for the enjoyment and leisure of the people of Paris. It is unusual in France due to its casual, informal "English" style planning, and is a contrast to other Parisian parks such as the classically laid out and formal Luxemburg Gardens and the Tuileries. Randomly placed throughout the park are scaled-down architectural replicas including an Egyptian pyramid, Dutch windmill, and a Chinese fort.

*<eat name="Jaipur" alt="" address="25, rue des Dames" directions="Métro: Place de Clichy" phone="+33 1 42 94 13 14" url="" hours="noon-2:30pm 7pm-midnight" price="€20" lat="" long="">The brothers who operate this Indian/Mexican restaurant are actually from Shri Lanka, but that doesn't seem to impact their ability to deliver on both of their favorite ethnic cuisines. When asked why Mexican, the youngest of the three (and the usual waiter) explained "because we like it". You will too.</eat>

+

*<eat name="Jaipur" alt="" address="25, rue des Dames" directions="Métro: Place de Clichy" phone="+33 1 42 94 13 14" url="" hours="noon-2:30pm 7pm-midnight" price="€20" lat="" long="">The brothers who operate this Indian/Mexican restaurant are actually from Sri Lanka, but that doesn't seem to impact their ability to deliver on both of their favourite ethnic cuisines. When asked why Mexican, the youngest of the three (and the usual waiter) explained "because we like it". You will too.</eat>

*<eat name="La Gaieté Cosaque" alt="" address="6 rue Truffaut" directions="" phone="+33 1 44 70 06 07" url="" hours="" price="€20" lat="" long="">Traditional Russian food which runs heavily into various roasts and stews. This one is definitely for the carnivorous. After dinner the very Russian ''patron'' will surely coax you into enjoying a few too many of his fabulous vodkas. Save a little room for a glass of wine around the corner though...</eat>

*<eat name="La Gaieté Cosaque" alt="" address="6 rue Truffaut" directions="" phone="+33 1 44 70 06 07" url="" hours="" price="€20" lat="" long="">Traditional Russian food which runs heavily into various roasts and stews. This one is definitely for the carnivorous. After dinner the very Russian ''patron'' will surely coax you into enjoying a few too many of his fabulous vodkas. Save a little room for a glass of wine around the corner though...</eat>

*<eat name="Le Bistral" alt="" address="80 rue Lemercier" directions="" phone="+33 1 42 63 59 61" url="" hours="" price="€35" lat="" long="">Inventive cooking in the Spanish tradition and an intimate atmosphere are what distinguishes this little place from the dozens of bistros in the neighborhood, but it's probably the genuinely caring, warm, service which will bring you back again and again.</eat>

+

*<eat name="Le Bistral" alt="" address="80 rue Lemercier" directions="" phone="+33 1 42 63 59 61" url="" hours="" price="€35" lat="" long="">Inventive cooking in the Spanish tradition and an intimate atmosphere are what distinguishes this little place from the dozens of bistros in the neighbourhood, but it's probably the genuinely caring, warm, service which will bring you back again and again.</eat>

*<eat name="l'Abadache" alt="" address="89 Rue Lemercier" directions="Métro: Brochant" phone="+33 1 42 36 37 33" url="" hours="" price="€30" lat="" long="">A French-English collaboration, the cooking is mostly in the French tradition but with a English cheddar and quite a bit of English inventiveness. Go for the polenta with sun-dried tomatoes.</eat>

*<eat name="l'Abadache" alt="" address="89 Rue Lemercier" directions="Métro: Brochant" phone="+33 1 42 36 37 33" url="" hours="" price="€30" lat="" long="">A French-English collaboration, the cooking is mostly in the French tradition but with a English cheddar and quite a bit of English inventiveness. Go for the polenta with sun-dried tomatoes.</eat>

−

*<eat name="Aux Couleurs du Monde" alt="" address="118, rue Truffaut" directions="Métro:Brochant" phone=" 01-43-87-34-55" url="" hours="" price="€25" lat="" long="">A Laoasian/Honduran restaurant with a superb atmosphere, trendy decor, friendly service and good food. It's not hard to understand why it's one of the most popular places with Batignolles BoBos as well as people from outside of the quarter, at least judging by the number of taxis queued up late in the evening.</eat>

+

*<eat name="Aux Couleurs du Monde" alt="" address="118, rue Truffaut" directions="Métro:Brochant" phone="+33 1-43-87-34-55" url="" hours="" price="€25" lat="" long="">A Laoasian/Honduran restaurant with a superb atmosphere, trendy decor, friendly service and good food. It's not hard to understand why it's one of the most popular places with Batignolles BoBos as well as people from outside of the quarter, at least judging by the number of taxis queued up late in the evening.</eat>

*<eat name="O Batignolles" alt="" address="89, rue Truffaut" directions="Métro: Brochant" phone="+33 1-42-29-70-69" url="http://www.obatignolles.fr/" hours="" price="€15" lat="" long="">A new favorite among foodies in the area, O Batignolles wins high praise from reviewers not just for the inventive and ever changing menu, but also as a wine bar.</eat>

+

*<eat name="O Batignolles" alt="" address="89, rue Truffaut" directions="Métro: Brochant" phone="+33 1-42-29-70-69" url="http://www.obatignolles.fr/" hours="" price="€15" lat="" long="">A new favourite among foodies in the area, O Batignolles wins high praise from reviewers not just for the inventive and ever changing menu, but also as a wine bar.</eat>

[[Image:Paris_17th_arrondissement_map_with_listings.png|thumb|350px|print=split|border=17ème arrondissement|is_in=Paris|relid=9519|listings_placement=manual|expand_for_listings=no|box_width=78|box1_x=4|box1_y=186.8|box1_h=100|box2_x=86|box2_y=231|box2_h=56|box3_x=264|box3_y=202.8|box3_h=0|box4_x=264|box4_y=4|box4_h=36|Map of the 17th Arrondissement]]

+

[[Image:Paris_17th_arrondissement_map_with_listings.png|thumb|350px|border=17ème arrondissement|is_in=Paris|relid=9519|listings_placement=manual|expand_for_listings=no|box_width=78|box1_x=4|box1_y=186.8|box1_h=100|box2_x=86|box2_y=231|box2_h=56|box3_x=264|box3_y=202.8|box3_h=0|box4_x=264|box4_y=4|box4_h=36|Map of the 17th Arrondissement]]

*<drink name="Sans Gêne" alt="" address="112 rue Legendre" directions="" phone="+33 1 46 27 67 82" url="http://www.sansgene.fr" hours="" price="" lat="" long="">The name means "Without annoyance", but given the shared toilet space perhaps it should be rethought. Still this second location for the popular Oberkampfian drinking spot has a lot going for it including clean trendy decor and more importantly free WiFi.</drink>

*<drink name="Sans Gêne" alt="" address="112 rue Legendre" directions="" phone="+33 1 46 27 67 82" url="http://www.sansgene.fr" hours="" price="" lat="" long="">The name means "Without annoyance", but given the shared toilet space perhaps it should be rethought. Still this second location for the popular Oberkampfian drinking spot has a lot going for it including clean trendy decor and more importantly free WiFi.</drink>

*<drink name="Lush" alt="" address="16 rue des Dames" directions="" phone="+33 1 43 87 49 46" url="" hours="" price="" lat="" long="">Grungy atmosphere and a well thought out selection of beers and tunes have made this a popular space with the bobo crowd. There's not much in the way of furniture, so it's standing room only when the place gets hopping. Of course that means you can fit more hipsters per square meter.</drink>

*<drink name="Lush" alt="" address="16 rue des Dames" directions="" phone="+33 1 43 87 49 46" url="" hours="" price="" lat="" long="">Grungy atmosphere and a well thought out selection of beers and tunes have made this a popular space with the bobo crowd. There's not much in the way of furniture, so it's standing room only when the place gets hopping. Of course that means you can fit more hipsters per square meter.</drink>

Line 56:

Line 56:

* <sleep name="Hotel Eldorado" alt="" address="Rue des Dames 18" directions="Métro: Place de Clichy" phone="+33 1 45 22 35 21" tollfree="" email="" fax="" url="" checkin="" checkout="" price="23/55 € - 49/79 € (''singles/doubles''). Confirm rates before booking, though - their website is not frequently updated." lat="" long="" tags="">The Eldorado, a former ''maison de rendez-vous'', was once home to the kept women of the 19th century bourgeois. Now a very cute ''no'' star hotel, its charm more than makes up for what it lacks in amenities (who needs a TV in Paris anyway?). The staff is super friendly, the decor is garage sale chic, and there's a lovely courtyard that fills with neighbourhood hipsters on warm evenings. It also has a very good location & you can easily avoid the noise of Pigalle or Montmartre's high prices, but they're within stumble distance if you decide to explore. For early risers breakfast (€5, until 10 am) is served in the attached restaurant/bar. Some English spoken, especially for those who pet the cat sprawled across the reception desk. </sleep>

* <sleep name="Hotel Eldorado" alt="" address="Rue des Dames 18" directions="Métro: Place de Clichy" phone="+33 1 45 22 35 21" tollfree="" email="" fax="" url="" checkin="" checkout="" price="23/55 € - 49/79 € (''singles/doubles''). Confirm rates before booking, though - their website is not frequently updated." lat="" long="" tags="">The Eldorado, a former ''maison de rendez-vous'', was once home to the kept women of the 19th century bourgeois. Now a very cute ''no'' star hotel, its charm more than makes up for what it lacks in amenities (who needs a TV in Paris anyway?). The staff is super friendly, the decor is garage sale chic, and there's a lovely courtyard that fills with neighbourhood hipsters on warm evenings. It also has a very good location & you can easily avoid the noise of Pigalle or Montmartre's high prices, but they're within stumble distance if you decide to explore. For early risers breakfast (€5, until 10 am) is served in the attached restaurant/bar. Some English spoken, especially for those who pet the cat sprawled across the reception desk. </sleep>

* <sleep name="Hotel Champerret Héliopolis" alt="" address="13, Rue d’Héliopolis" directions="" phone="+33 1 47 64 92 56" tollfree="" email="reservation@champerretheliopolis.fr" fax="" url="http://champerret-heliopolis-paris-hotel.com" checkin="" checkout="" price="" lat="" long="" tags="">Hotel Champerret Héliopolis is a tiny hotel with tiny rooms, so if you're planning to spend much time at your hotel whilst in Paris, this is probably not for you. But if you appreciate decent and not to pricy accommodation for an oval weekend, hosted by a friendly staff this hotel is highly recommended. It's tidy and clean, and the rooms are always fresh when returning from shopping or sight-seeing. It's located close to the Metro, and should you choose to go for a walk, you'll get to the Arc d'Triomphe/Champs Elysees in about 20 minutes. The area is somewhat busy, but even with open windows during the night, there's not too much noise. Free WiFi</sleep>

Revision as of 16:42, 18 March 2014

Palais des Congrès

The 17th arrondissement of Paris lies slightly off the beaten path, directly north of the Arc de Triomphe. However, if you want to see real Paris at some of its finest and wealthiest, this is where to go. There are no major sights to see, museums to go to, just amazing Haussmannian architecture, real French people, and that atmosphere of the quintessential Paris you've always imagined.

Beyond this the south-western and north-eastern ends of the arrondissement have quite different characters, with the south-western mainly known as a midrange to high-end shopping district named for two major avenues which are lined with shops: Wagram-Ternes, feeling much like an extension of the Champs Élysées.

The north-eastern end, known as Batignolles is quite different with a grungy bohemian feeling and lots of bars and bistros which are popular with BoBos (short for bohemian-bourgeois, a social group as fascinating for the observer than the "hipster" population) from the 17th and elsewhere.

Contents

Get in

By Métro

Line 3 has stops at Pereire, Porte de Champerret, and Wagram among others.

See

Make sure you admire the many luxurious townhouses along the avenues, and relax in hidden small parks and squares sprinkled throughout the area. Many of Paris's upper class live in this district, and the architecture proudly shows this!

The Parc Monceau is one of Paris's best kept secrets, painted by Monet numerous times. It is a very elegant centre of green in the middle of cosmopolitan Paris. Make sure you check out the statues, entrance rotunda and the surrounding mansions. Thanks to Haussmann himself this precious slice of parkland was reserved for the enjoyment and leisure of the people of Paris. It is unusual in France due to its casual, informal "English" style planning, and is a contrast to other Parisian parks such as the classically laid out and formal Luxemburg Gardens and the Tuileries. Randomly placed throughout the park are scaled-down architectural replicas including an Egyptian pyramid, Dutch windmill, and a Chinese fort.

The Park has free Wi-fi for the internet-conscious.

Do

Marché Poncelet. Street market.

Parc Monceau. Great place for a walk or picnic.

Buy

Marché des Batignolles, rue Lemercier at Rue des Moines. Tue-Sat 8:30am-1:30pm, 4pm-7:30pm. This covered market is known for its organic produce, and has fish and meat and a supermarket (G20) as well.

Eat

The XVIIe arrondissemnt has some of the finest Algerian cuisine in Paris- if you want a twist on the French wine and food, go try some!

Jaipur, 25, rue des Dames (Métro: Place de Clichy), ☎+33 1 42 94 13 14. noon-2:30pm 7pm-midnight. The brothers who operate this Indian/Mexican restaurant are actually from Sri Lanka, but that doesn't seem to impact their ability to deliver on both of their favourite ethnic cuisines. When asked why Mexican, the youngest of the three (and the usual waiter) explained "because we like it". You will too.€20.

La Gaieté Cosaque, 6 rue Truffaut, ☎+33 1 44 70 06 07. Traditional Russian food which runs heavily into various roasts and stews. This one is definitely for the carnivorous. After dinner the very Russian patron will surely coax you into enjoying a few too many of his fabulous vodkas. Save a little room for a glass of wine around the corner though...€20.

Le Réfuge, 34 rue Lemercier, ☎+33 1 42 93 46 16. until 5am. The drinks speciality here is an assortment of flavoured vodkas. The food, served in the spacious seating area in back is traditional, including a huge cheese platter.

Le Bistral, 80 rue Lemercier, ☎+33 1 42 63 59 61. Inventive cooking in the Spanish tradition and an intimate atmosphere are what distinguishes this little place from the dozens of bistros in the neighbourhood, but it's probably the genuinely caring, warm, service which will bring you back again and again.€35.

l'Abadache, 89 Rue Lemercier (Métro: Brochant), ☎+33 1 42 36 37 33. A French-English collaboration, the cooking is mostly in the French tradition but with a English cheddar and quite a bit of English inventiveness. Go for the polenta with sun-dried tomatoes.€30.

Aux Couleurs du Monde, 118, rue Truffaut (Métro:Brochant), ☎+33 1-43-87-34-55. A Laoasian/Honduran restaurant with a superb atmosphere, trendy decor, friendly service and good food. It's not hard to understand why it's one of the most popular places with Batignolles BoBos as well as people from outside of the quarter, at least judging by the number of taxis queued up late in the evening.€25.

O Batignolles, 89, rue Truffaut (Métro: Brochant), ☎+33 1-42-29-70-69, [2]. A new favourite among foodies in the area, O Batignolles wins high praise from reviewers not just for the inventive and ever changing menu, but also as a wine bar.€15.

Drink

James Joyce Pub, 71 Boulevard Gouvion St. Cyr., ☎+33 1 44 09 70 32, [3]. Across from the Palais de Congres. Also serves standard Irish pub food. They screen Irish and English football and soccer.

Map of the 17th Arrondissement

Sans Gêne, 112 rue Legendre, ☎+33 1 46 27 67 82, [4]. The name means "Without annoyance", but given the shared toilet space perhaps it should be rethought. Still this second location for the popular Oberkampfian drinking spot has a lot going for it including clean trendy decor and more importantly free WiFi.

Lush, 16 rue des Dames, ☎+33 1 43 87 49 46. Grungy atmosphere and a well thought out selection of beers and tunes have made this a popular space with the bobo crowd. There's not much in the way of furniture, so it's standing room only when the place gets hopping. Of course that means you can fit more hipsters per square meter.

Les Caves Populaires, 22 rue des Dames. until 2am. Another major bobo hangout, this one specialized in wine as opposed to the more beer oriented lush.

Le Bar Belge, 75 avenue Saint Ouen (Métro: Guy Moquet), ☎+33 1 44 70 06 07. Opened in 1954 as Paris was finally recovering from the occupation, the bar Belge serves dozens of different Belgian beers, ales, and lambics in locals-dominated, but very friendly room. They also have Vlaams Frites, the original "french" fries. Free Wifi.

Sleep

Budget

Hotel Eldorado, Rue des Dames 18 (Métro: Place de Clichy), ☎+33 1 45 22 35 21. The Eldorado, a former maison de rendez-vous, was once home to the kept women of the 19th century bourgeois. Now a very cute no star hotel, its charm more than makes up for what it lacks in amenities (who needs a TV in Paris anyway?). The staff is super friendly, the decor is garage sale chic, and there's a lovely courtyard that fills with neighbourhood hipsters on warm evenings. It also has a very good location & you can easily avoid the noise of Pigalle or Montmartre's high prices, but they're within stumble distance if you decide to explore. For early risers breakfast (€5, until 10 am) is served in the attached restaurant/bar. Some English spoken, especially for those who pet the cat sprawled across the reception desk. 23/55 € - 49/79 € (''singles/doubles''). Confirm rates before booking, though - their website is not frequently updated..

Hotel Champerret Héliopolis, 13, Rue d’Héliopolis, ☎+33 1 47 64 92 56 (reservation@champerretheliopolis.fr), [6]. Hotel Champerret Héliopolis is a tiny hotel with tiny rooms, so if you're planning to spend much time at your hotel whilst in Paris, this is probably not for you. But if you appreciate decent and not to pricy accommodation for an oval weekend, hosted by a friendly staff this hotel is highly recommended. It's tidy and clean, and the rooms are always fresh when returning from shopping or sight-seeing. It's located close to the Metro, and should you choose to go for a walk, you'll get to the Arc d'Triomphe/Champs Elysees in about 20 minutes. The area is somewhat busy, but even with open windows during the night, there's not too much noise. Free WiFi

Mid-Range

Hôtel Acacias Etoile, 11, rue des Acacias (Métro: Argentine), ☎+33 1 43 80 60 22 (hotel.acacias.etoile@wanadoo.fr, fax: +33 1 48 88 96 40), [7]. A clean, well run hotel in the side streets near the Place Charles de Gaulle. The staff is friendly, the rooms aren't large, but they are immaculate.€129/night for one person, without breakfast; breakfast is €12 extra.

Hotel Ampère****, 102, avenue de Villiers - 75017 Paris, ☎33 1 44 29 17 17, [8]. One of the most inexpensive luxury 4 star hotels in Paris. A garden in the heart of the elegant 17th arrondissement, not far from the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysées.

Splurge

Contact

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!