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I can't think of any reason not to use a regular valve but that doesn't mean their isn't one. I'd wait for a definite answer from one of the other guys.

If you do go this route one thing you do not want is direct contact between the cast iron and copper. I'd use an IPS ball valve, and put a male IPS to sweat adapter in one side and a black nipple in the other. It wouldn't be a bad idea to put a union in there as well to make changing the valve or removing the radiator easier.

Wetboots the enclosure not to secure the valve in any way, it's just for looks. With it on you can install the finish carpentry (baseboard) right up to the radiator and run the top cap up and over the device. It's a nice finished look.

I had not checked how much clearance I gain by removing the wheel, I'll see.

One guy at the plumbing supply house thought the primary difference between a "radiator" valve and regular plumbing valve is ability to withstand heat. My boiler runs at about 140 degrees, which isn't that far from some domestic water heaters, so I'm not sure that's a legit concern.

I think I'm going with the gate valve. Thanks for the information all. Phil

A lot of radiator valves have the union built into them, for close work and they can also be used to control the flow into that individual radiator if the system is plumbed right for that. They also make thermostatically controlled valves now too. They do take the heat better, but a gate valve should too. I have had gate valves that didn't turn the water off all the way, that can be a pain if you need to use it.

Well I hate leaving threads unfinished, so wanted to pass on that I did locate a straight 3/4" radiator valve online at pexsupply after a lot of searching. Finished the whole basement project a year ago, but just remembered these pics.

I think the built-in union is really what makes this the best valve (versus standard ball valve) for connecting up a radiator and I'm glad I kept looking until I found them.

Someone asked about the enclosure. I added a pic of the "finished product" with the baseboard cap wrapped up and over the baseray unit. The Burnham literature talks about doing there aren't any pictures. I think it's a very nice finished look, even though I'm not the worlds greatest finish carpenter.

One other item: since the lines to this radiator run "down" from an overhead branch, I installed a hose bib bleeder on the opposite side of the radiator so I can bleed it out. Once bled, heat flows through great.

I can only find one supplier here in Wash DC area still stocking Burnham cast iron radiant parts, I'm a fan and hope to continue using it with future renovations.

Thanks for all the assistance with this and my other projects. Phil P.