Review: Sneaky Pete's food as good as its cocktails

Thursday

Going beyond cocktails, this former speakeasy now offers three different menus that include specials, appetizers, sandwiches and charcuterie boards.

Small and cozy with a roaring fire in the fireplace, Sneaky Pete's Speakeasy Cocktail Lounge Restaurant Bar is a Fairview gem with a lot of history, and it gets better every year.

Originally known as the Blind Pig — a speakeasy during Prohibition, according to the website — Sneaky Pete's has the feeling of a home. It was called the Colonial Inn and owned by Pete and Laura Ciacchini for more than 50 years, with Pete as the bartender and Laura serving the drinks. Sneaky Pete's was the bar's longtime nickname, and general manager Darrell Knopfel made it the official name when he took over in 2016. A likeness of Pete is on the menus and aprons.

With only 47 seats including the bar stools, this quaint establishment always had a crowd for drinks, but now food is the big draw. Knopfel offers three different menus: the blackboard has four daily meal specials that are culinary delights while the pub menu has appetizers, salads, sandwiches and flatbread choices, and the charcuterie menu offers meats and cheeses with international origins.

There's no such thing as fast food here. "Good food takes time. Everything is made fresh, and this is not the place to go if you're in a hurry," Knopfel said.

My husband, Kim, and I joined my brother, Walt Strosser, and his friend Nancy Durst for dinner on a recent Saturday evening. Dinners are impressive and served with a choice of salads, and our crew opted for the house salads loaded with veggies and topped off with a creamy leek house dressing that was light and not overwhelming. Kim had the slow-roasted pork tenderloin dinner, and it looked like a roast wrapped in bacon with homemade fig spread. Although it sounds rich, it wasn't too heavy, but it had a lot of flavor. We all agreed it was a keeper, and we took part of it home.

Walt and Nancy ordered Manchego chicken, a breast stuffed with buttery Manchego cheese and topped with honey sauce. The entree usually comes with smashed parsnips, but our diners chose seasoned rice as an alternative. It was a perfect blend of flavors, and the honey added a nice complement to the brie-ish cheese.

I chose the filet medallion sandwich with Gorgonzola cheese and roasted red peppers. It was so tender and flavorful. Served open faced on a split croissant with roasted potatoes, it left room for other goodies, and there are a lot of those.

The drink menu is so extensive, it's a 14-page book, and it's entertaining. The French 75, “named after a small powerful gun used during World War I,” called to me with its blend of gin, champagne, lemon juice and sugar. I'm not a fan of sweet cocktails, and our server delivered on her promise that it would not be too sweet. She added that the owners grow their own herbs and make their own syrups for the cocktails, too.

I also had the Sneaky Pete — it's basically an adult milkshake (a secret recipe) and it includes booze, cream and whipped cream. At least I think that's what's in there. Some patrons have it for dessert, but we also had dessert because the mention of warm apple crisp with whipped cream had us all salivating. We split it four ways, and it was a light, sweet finish to our meals.

In Prohibition lingo, dinner was the bee's knees — and that's one of the signature cocktails, as well. I'll try that next time.

QUICK BITES: Sneaky Pete's

What to know: 6116 Swanville Road, Fairview; 790-5254; www.sneakypeteserie.com. Also find it on Facebook.

Hours: Open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 4 p.m. to closing; dinner served Tuesdays through Thursdays until 9 p.m., and Fridays and Saturdays until 10 p.m. Charcuterie menu is available all the time.

Reservations: No. First come, first served.

Credit cards: Yes.

Wheelchair accessible: Yes.

Child-friendly: No.

Dietary options: Ask while ordering.

Also notable: Sneaky Pete's has one of the oldest liquor licenses in the county. While Frank Sinatra and Michael Bublé music can be heard on the jukebox, live entertainment is available on Wednesday and Thursday nights. Pairing dinners are available two nights per month at $75 per person; check the website for dates and pairings.

WHAT'S SO SPECIAL?

The atmosphere is homey, cozy and intimate. It's a perfect date night in a quaint setting with a replica tin ceiling, roaring fire and elegant chandeliers. It's always been known as a popular stop for a nightcap, but the food is making a new name for this place along with signature cocktails and impressive wine and beer offerings.

Never miss a story

Choose the plan that's right for you.
Digital access or digital and print delivery.