Might be able to ask them. It looks like they should be able to do it (from a glance at work). Ask what type of file they would use to cut these from. I would assume Illustrator, but that's just what I use.

It might be a bit pricey to do that I recommend getting a scalpel there only like 20-30 at most and a metal ruler. I'll upload a few pictures of my one later, also if you have some trouble fitting the pieces after you have the correct size I found separating the keypad and the 18 macro keys works well. Use glue if you want the paper to stick to the keyboard base well, also go for a thicker paper so it is more reflective

It might be a bit pricey to do that I recommend getting a scalpel there only like 20-30 at most and a metal ruler. I'll upload a few pictures of my one later, also if you have some trouble fitting the pieces after you have the correct size I found separating the keypad and the 18 macro keys works well. Use glue if you want the paper to stick to the keyboard base well, also go for a thicker paper so it is more reflective

This is good advice. It's exactly how I made my first one from paper before I learned the laser cutter. The G keys are tough to place correctly because they don't line up with the rest of the rows on the keyboard. Most of the error in my design is probably around the G keys.

Also - about the glue.. I would recommend using something you can get off the keyboard in case you need to RMA. Maybe put down some painters tape on the board first and glue to that. The point of this mod was to keep the board under warranty while making it look better. It's your board though, so do what you want with it :)

This is good advice. It's exact how I made my first one from paper before I learned the laser cutter. The G keys are tough to place correctly because they don't line up with the rest of the rows on the keyboard. Most of the error in my design is probably around the G keys.

Also - about the glue.. I would recommend using something you can get off the keyboard in case you need to RMA. Maybe put down some painters tape on the board first and glue to that. The point of this mod was to keep the board under warantee while making it look better. It's your board though, so do what you want with it :)

Do you think the base plate could be 3D printed? We have an (relatively cheap) 3D printer at school, and I think I am allowed to use it (I've used the modelling program before). But, I think the print must be 3-5mm thick to have a bit of strength.

To be clear; I don't own the K95 RGB yet, so I have no idea at what height the keykaps are when they are pressed in. I hope somebody could measure this for me, so I can start working on the model. I want to order an vengeance K95 RGB with brown switches, and I've been promised by Corsair that it will come in Q4 of 2015. I want to have the print ready by then if possible.

Could somebody confirm that 3-5mm can fit under the pressed keycap? That would be amazing!

Do you think the base plate could be 3D printed? We have an (relatively cheap) 3D printer at school, and I think I am allowed to use it (I've used the modelling program before). But, I think the print must be 3-5mm thick to have a bit of strength.

To be clear; I don't own the K95 RGB yet, so I have no idea at what height the keykaps are when they are pressed in. I hope somebody could measure this for me, so I can start working on the model. I want to order an vengeance K95 RGB with brown switches, and I've been promised by Corsair that it will come in Q4 of 2015. I want to have the print ready by then if possible.

Could somebody confirm that 3-5mm can fit under the pressed keycap? That would be amazing!

Thanks

~ML

I believe it can be 3D printed. The clearance between a pressed keycap and the aluminum plate is 1/16th of an inch - 1.588 mm, so 3 or 5 mm is definitely way too big. The plate does not need to be strong at all. What resolution does your 3D printer print at? I'm thinking 1 mm would be good enough. The keyboard cover is supported by the aluminum plate and the keys pretty well. you just don't want your model to fall apart while moving it.

Anyways, I have not used this design with a 3D printer. It was designed for laser cutting, which has a kerf of 1/1000 of an inch. I think if you 3D print it then it might be too tight, but I dont know of anyone that has tried this yet. If you want to try it, please let us know if 3D printing using this drawing works or not.

I believe it can be 3D printed. The clearance between a pressed keycap and the aluminum plate is 1/16th of an inch - 1.588 mm, so 3 or 5 mm is definitely way too big. The plate does not need to be strong at all. What resolution does your 3D printer print at? I'm thinking 1 mm would be good enough. The keyboard cover is supported by the aluminum plate and the keys pretty well. you just don't want your model to fall apart while moving it.

Anyways, I have not used this design with a 3D printer. It was designed for laser cutting, which has a kerf of 1/1000 of an inch. I think if you 3D print it then it might be too tight, but I dont know of anyone that has tried this yet. If you want to try it, please let us know if 3D printing using this drawing works or not.

Ok, that is waaay tighter then I thought. I know it doesnt have to be strong to stay under the keyboard, but the 3D printer at school will print to an strange base, which will make the plastic stick to it. I think it will break when I print only 1 layer, but maybe the printer can go thinner. Need to have a look at the software again (last used it over a year ago ;)). I'll keep you up-to-date on how it works out.

Ok, that is waaay tighter then I thought. I know it doesnt have to be strong to stay under the keyboard, but the 3D printer at school will print to an strange base, which will make the plastic stick to it. I think it will break when I print only 1 layer, but maybe the printer can go thinner. Need to have a look at the software again (last used it over a year ago ;)). I'll keep you up-to-date on how it works out.

~ML

Well, if you think cm instead of mm, then a 5 mm clearance would be half a centimeter!
I know I have printed things 1/16" thick before. They were small coins, and seemed pretty strong. Post pictures if you get the chance to 3D print this! I know others wanted to 3D print it in the past, so they might be interested in a model that's confirmed working too!

Well, if you think cm instead of mm, then a 5 mm clearance would be half a centimeter!
I know I have printed things 1/16" thick before. They were small coins, and seemed pretty strong. Post pictures if you get the chance to 3D print this! I know others wanted to 3D print it in the past, so they might be interested in a model that's confirmed working too!

I know the printer should be able to get the job done, but I'm not sure if I can get the print off of the printing base. I'll have to try.

I still need to make the whole thing in solid edge, since it's being an doosh and doesnt want to import your files xD

Oh well, I still need to ask the teacher if I'm allowed to use it again for this project, since they probably need to leave the printer running during night...

I know that Google sketchup can import .dwg files (though I think it was removed recently, you would have to find an older version)
If the printer takes .stl files, that might be easier than rebuilding the whole thing. Though, rebuilding the model shouldn't take too long either. The hard part was measuring the spacing :P
Good luck :) if I can help at all feel free to PM me or post here if you think others can benefit from the question/solution

I know that Google sketchup can import .dwg files (though I think it was removed recently, you would have to find an older version)
If the printer takes .stl files, that might be easier than rebuilding the whole thing. Though, rebuilding the model shouldn't take too long either. The hard part was measuring the spacing :P
Good luck :) if I can help at all feel free to PM me or post here if you think others can benefit from the question/solution

I have to measure all the things again with illustrator, because they need to be extremely exact... Yaay :D. The measuring is the hardest part. I've printed out the paper version to write my measurements on. Since I HAVE to cut the print in 3 pieces, I decided that I'm going to try to print the G-key's first, since they are (relatively) easy to measure, and can be used as a good test-print in my opinion. I have school in a few hours, so I can hopefully confirm today that I'm allowed to use the printer

Do you know of an easier way to measure all the things out then to have to draw the guidelines for all of the keys? I'm not that skilled with illustrator (lol, I didn't even have it before this xD).

I have to measure all the things again with illustrator, because they need to be extremely exact... Yaay :D. The measuring is the hardest part. I've printed out the paper version to write my measurements on. Since I HAVE to cut the print in 3 pieces, I decided that I'm going to try to print the G-key's first, since they are (relatively) easy to measure, and can be used as a good test-print in my opinion. I have school in a few hours, so I can hopefully confirm today that I'm allowed to use the printer

Do you know of an easier way to measure all the things out then to have to draw the guidelines for all of the keys? I'm not that skilled with illustrator (lol, I didn't even have it before this xD).

~ML

I have the models already in illustrator. Would that help?
I also have .DWG files. If you're going to a U.S. college you can get AutoCAD for free for 3 years (educational license)
Both the illustrator and AutoCAD files have the exact dimentions and can be measured in the applications.