How to Replace a Treated Wood Deck

Replacing rotting deck boards extends the useful life of a deck.

A deck adds usable, outdoor space to a home. But it is exposed to the elements 24 hours a day. A deck must endure direct sunlight, ultraviolet radiation, rain, dirt, hail, snow and foot traffic, all of which takes their toll on the wood surface. Over time, the deck boards may wear, turn gray, splinter or rot. If the joist framing underneath is still solid, replacing only the deck boards is a less-expensive alternative to give your deck new life.

Remove Old Decking

Removing the existing decking without destroying the joists underneath is perhaps the hardest part of this project. If the boards are secured with deck screws, unscrew them and lift the boards off. If the boards are nailed in place, make cuts with the circular saw -- parallel to the joists -- and pry the deck board sections out in small pieces. Pry out or pound down any remaining nails that stick up from the surface of the joists.

Preparing for New Decking

Now that the framing is exposed, this is the perfect opportunity to closely inspect the joists, joist hangers, attachment brackets and posts. Replace any rotted lumber. If the deck has sunk or heaved on its footings, fix those problems as well. Lay a 4-foot level along and across the joists to make sure the deck is still level. Place wood shims in low spots or plane down high spots.

Cut and Install Deck Boards

Measure the width of the deck and cut the first deck board to this measurement. Because the fascia boards and railing are not being removed, it is important to take exact measurements for cutting the deck boards so that they butt up to the fascia board along the sides of the deck. Lay the first board parallel with the outside fascia board and screw the board with two 2 1/2-inch deck screws to each joist that it overlaps. Predrill holes at the ends of the boards prior to screwing them down to avoid splitting the ends. Lay the second board down next to the first, but space it away by placing a 10D nail between the boards prior to screwing it down. You may also use the width of a carpenter's pencil for a little more clearance between boards.

installation Tips

Continue to install boards in the same fashion as you work your way from the outside of the deck toward the house. Take measurements from the beginning, middle and end of each board to the house to ensure the boards are parallel to the house. If the distances are not the same, make small adjustments over multiple boards to make up the discrepancy. When you get to the last board, the one adjacent to the house, you may need to rip it down to size prior to installation.

Stagger Boards If Necessary

If the deck is wider than the length of the deck boards, cut the boards to different lengths and stagger the seams as you install them. For example, for a 20-foot-wide deck, use 12-foot and 8-foot decking. Start at one side and install a 12-foot, then an 8-foot board. Start the next row on the opposite side of the deck and install a 12-foot and then 8-foot board in the same fashion. This will give you staggered seams, which is more pleasing to the eye. Always have butted seams overlap on the center of a joist.

About the Author

Emrah Oruc is a general contractor, freelance writer and former race-car mechanic who has written professionally since 2000. He has been published in "The Family Handyman" magazine and has experience as a consultant developing and delivering end-user training. Oruc holds a Bachelor of Arts in political science and a minor in economics from the University of Delaware.