Going to do my T-Belt (actually all belts), W-Pump etc. For all I know, this truck could be running on the original factory belt I know the PO did not do it and he had the truck between 110k and 138k - when I bought it. So I'm either 20k late (by earliest specs) or 140k late. Even if I assume that belts can go 100k, this is still an issue. I don't have a loud knock - YET - but I want to get ahead of the curve.

I have searched manuals, sites (this and ITOG) and feel like I understand what I should see once I get in there. It really is just a matter of making sure the timing marks are correct and making sure the belt goes on correctly.

Anyway, what size is the crankshaft pulley nut? - I have socket/wrench sets up through 19 mm and a few oversize, but I am not sure I'll have what I need when I get in there.

Also, apparently there is an upgrade in the tensioner area - anybody done this? - Any gotcha's?

Lastly - my parts guy included 2 camshaft seals and a crankshaft seal. I know he did that because he knows I want to keep this truck - but if anyone has any input on these, I would apprteciate it.

cloudnine233 wrote:Lastly - my parts guy included 2 camshaft seals and a crankshaft seal. I know he did that because he knows I want to keep this truck - but if anyone has any input on these, I would apprteciate it.

I've got the same question, should I be changing these while I'm in there? How hard is it?

Im not too sure about the size of the bolt. It was pretty big though.
As for the seals. Since your in there it is a very good idea to change them out.
That way if you get an oil leak later on, you dont beat yourself up for not doing it while you were there.
They are very easy to change out. I got the two camshaft seals and the crankshaft seals from JLEMOND.
Its a good idea to use OEM parts in there, especially on the waterpump.

Dae wrote:Im not too sure about the size of the bolt. It was pretty big though.As for the seals. Since your in there it is a very good idea to change them out.That way if you get an oil leak later on, you dont beat yourself up for not doing it while you were there.They are very easy to change out. I got the two camshaft seals and the crankshaft seals from JLEMOND.Its a good idea to use OEM parts in there, especially on the waterpump.

Besides, the OEM seals are not pricey at all.

I haven't seen instructions on changing them out on any of the trooper timing belt DIY's.

How do the pulley's come off with out ruining the TDC, or do they only fit in one direction?

Is there just a cover and the seal behind that? Yank out old, push new in?

Well mines non-interference, so I didnt worry about messing the timing up, not sure if yours is the same.
I just wedged the cam sprockets with a screw driver, removed the bolt, removed the sprocket, then the oil seal is exposed.

Your correct, you just take the old seal out (be very careful to not nick the sealing surface) and install the new one, by putting it in the same depth as the old.
Grease the inner lip of the rubber seal(not the outer one!)with a little oil.

Wasn't sure if I should post to this or start new so I figured I'd stay in the original post.

I bought a TB Kit and it too came with Cam seals, crank seal, pulley, tensioner, idler, etc.. I understand the cam seals are behind the sproket but I also rec'd 2 thin O-rings about 1.5" in diameter. I have a Haynes and it doesn't show where these may go. The parts are also listed as Cam seals. Any clue?

If I am able to hold the cam drive sprocket with a band wrench and loosen / tighten the sprocket bolt , it is necessary to remove the valve covers if I keep things in time and my VC gaskets are not leaking?

Wasn't sure if I should post to this or start new so I figured I'd stay in the original post.

I bought a TB Kit and it too came with Cam seals, crank seal, pulley, tensioner, idler, etc.. I understand the cam seals are behind the sproket but I also rec'd 2 thin O-rings about 1.5" in diameter. I have a Haynes and it doesn't show where these may go. The parts are also listed as Cam seals. Any clue?

If I am able to hold the cam drive sprocket with a band wrench and loosen / tighten the sprocket bolt , it is necessary to remove the valve covers if I keep things in time and my VC gaskets are not leaking?

I appreciate any info you can provide.

Scott

Not unusual to get different seal types since the kits usually cover a variety of models.

You should not need to remove the valve covers at all, just make sure all your timing marks are lined up BEFORE you remove anything. then you just have to keep the sprocket from turning while you remove it. Use a marker and mark the alignment too just in case between the sprocket ans shaft, AND engine/timing cover. Take your time so you don't get confused.

Do a search here and you will find great posts on doing the timing belt and waterpump WHICH is highly recommended due to the ease of doing it now rather than 20,000 miles from now and having to do all this work again!

I found other things to change out when you do this. There are two small coolant bypass hoses attached to nipples in the heads- one to each head, that are joined by a tee and then to a nipple under the 90deg. pipe that the upper radiator hose attaches to. The nipples in the heads are buried behind the back covers of the cam sprockets. When mine started leaking it acted just like a bad water pump dribbling down the timing covers. Just a thought!