If you have a Totem or Lyric fork that uses a Mission Control damper with the Floodgate feature, but don't take advantage of it and would like your fork to be more sensitive, this is the Tech Tuesday for you. Inside you'll find a great video that guides you through the process of removing the Floodgate for more active suspension.

There are lots of riders out there who's bikes are equipped with either RockShox Totem or Lyric forks, and of those a lot of riders don't bother using the Floodgate feature. By removing the Floodgate unit from your fork entirely you can increase your fork's sensitivity which is never a bad thing. The great thing about this mod is that if you don't like the results, it's easy to put it back to factory spec. While performing this job is relatively easy, it does take some basic knowledge and tools to do correctly. It is very important that the parts are reassembled in the correct way and that the oil stays at the proper height. If you don't feel confident that you can do this mod, please hit up your local shop and have their trained mechanics do the work for you.

The guys at SRAM know that riders out there love to tinker and fine-tune their suspension to get it exactly how they want, but it's important to do that tinkering correctly. Below you'll find some tips directly from SRAM that expand on the process of removing the Floodgate component from your Totem or Lyric fork, as well as some technical info about their 2010 dampers.

• Instead of using channel lock pliers, the SRAM flat 24 mm wrench is the correct tool for the job. Channel locks can damage the low speed adjust. Simply turn the high-speed compression knob until you can fit the flat 24mm wrench underneath.

• A note on the "excess oil" - This is NOT excess and should be taken into account when re-filling. Always remember to put this amount of damping fluid back in. You can also lightly push on the shim with a 2mm allen. This drains the damping fluid directly into the upper tube. Oil hight in this system is crucial for proper performance.

• Please do not grab the Pop-it with sharp metal tools. This is technically a sealing surface and should be handled accordingly to prevent any damage.

• The system does not require Teflon tape. The sealing comes from the o-ring at the top of the treads. We suggest that you never use Teflon tape in any RockShox product.

• Please refer to all torque specs when reassembling the fork.

We here at RockShox, understand the diverse conditions, the crossover in this particular category, and the quest for performance. This being said, we are all about choice. We offer three different damper choices for the Totem and Lyric forks:

The best way to educate you guys on the ride quality or feel of the two Mission Control dampers we offer is describing what we changed for model year 2010. First is the re-valved Mission Control damper. The mentality behind this damper stays the same, the floodgate is intact as one of the quickest and easiest climbing tools in the all mountain realm, while we slightly changed the compression tune for better bump performance. The second completely new damper, Mission Control DH, is aimed at the rider who prefers the descent. This option is purely focused on bump performance. The Mission Control DH shares a lot of similarities to the video shown above. We have made some adjustments to the shim stack that really optimizes the ride feel and quality. Both dampers share updates to their rebound damping, which now features a larger displacement shaft and the removal of an internal tube, so a larger rebound piston can be utilized. The third damper is the Motion Control IS. This is an easy to use compression damper that we have used in other forks such as the Domain and Domain Dual Crown.

100 Comments

Wow, this was a very well made video. I like the "Blue Peter" style, you will need section at the beginning. No messing around, just the information you need. Excellent use of the syringe to remove the need for fluid replacement. 10 out of 10! Hummeroid for the WIN!

Bro, I have to say... that is literally the best diy bike tech vid I have seen to date... anywhere.

Great stuff, great quality, well thought out and prepared. Edited good. Awsome! I really wish someone would have done this for shiv's or marz forks back when. Maybe I will have to donate one for the greater good.

Ride on

btw, I don't even own a set of either... and watched the whole vid. That should say something

well, i removed it, but i'm not feeling any difference. the lsc and hsc still don't work, or at least i'm not feeling it. what can i do to make the compressions work better, different oil maybe, one with higher "w"?

I read that you have to measure your oil-level. Remove the top cap on the suspension side (or air) and compress the fork completely. Then remove the damper and measure the oil level. 73mm from the top of the crown to the oil would be correct.

Just done this mod to my totems, was fairly straightforward, however the floodgate widget wasnt the easist to flick out. Got it all back together fine and had a little pump around the drive and it feels slightly different. Will go for a blast soon to test fully.

Tx. Mod rocks. 2-step w Mi-Co already amazing. Now perrrfect. Turned low-speed up a couple clicks, high-speed down a click and tiny bit more air w better performance all round. Plush on small stuff but less brake dive. Couple mm less sag means more left for hits. Less bob thanks to extra low-spd & psi = no need for FG anyhow. Shaved 3.6g! YEAH! Lol. One obvious tip. Give your knarb-area a good clean before cracking the damper or knarb-dirt will foul your hole.

i know this is an old post but i just came across it looking for a vid on how to change the springs in totems as i have a medium or soft (not sure which is in it atm think its a medium spring) and i also have a firm spring for my totem. i'm in two minds weather or not to change the spring in mine but i guess i'll see how it rides more when my bb7 frame comes.

and not to be negative or anything: but what is the point of removing the floodgate/mission control? i mean doesn't the "if its not broke don't fix it" rule apply here? is taking the floodgate/mission control just to unrestrict the flow of oil in the fork to make the suspension more free? they may be times when you need high speed compression at a more controlable level because wouldn't the fork me more likely to bottom out or something if the floodgate/mission control was took out?

and more importantly is there any drawbacks? (silly question..)

RAMBLING OVER lol sorry for all the questions but there must be downsides to this in terms of compression

Oh yes. This worked awesome. Did lose a little oil that was trapped in all the knooks and crannies of the damper. More than I felt comfortable with. Maybe have to add a couple of cc's. But the fork now is breezing thru the initial travel. The fork was a bit sticky, even right out of the box (09). I was starting to notice the floodgate would back out of it's adjustment during runs til it was completely locked up at the bottom. Kept having to adjust in between runs. Perfect now. May have to bump up 1 more spring size, though. It is a little to soft now.

They should a Technical Tuesday on lowering fork I have done this to almost all of my bikes. So need on a Technical Tuesday a lot of people get freaked out when opening up a fork but its simple. I would remove the Floodgate if I ran that fork is seem like a XC fork would work well on the up hill but coming down seems like it would become active when you don't want it to. That's why the have a video to take it out. Hum. . .

I would like to see a Technical Tuesday on lowering forks. I know how to but I would still like to see it on a Technical Tuesday. Dose anyone run this fork? Sounds like a XC fork, not a all mountain. What don't you understand.

You'd think 180mm try 140mm there reason for this Technical Tuesday the Mission Control damper with the Floodgate feature fail. I have 3 friends that this has happened to had to send them back. We had removed the floodgate in one but never felt any real change besides it didn't lock up at 100mm. I have never seen this for travel past 140mm so it is a XC fork in my mind. Shops get sick of my friends bring in this fork again and again, hours after they get them back from Rockshock. Out of the box one of the worst forks I have ever seen. Sorry bro just think this fork isn't worth the time to fix the floodgate feature (aka the lock-out feature). Got to give hats off to Rockshock tech and service teams they are super cool, really do stand by their products.

Very easy mod, bit tricky with all the sticky oil but not much to screw up on. Or mayb if you drop your mission control damper lol. After a quick street run does seem to be picking up just a bit nicer, less initial force needed to make the fork work. Hope it works on the trail will be testing it out soon.

yes did the same, try onto road and seams way better it's like having a Ndee but with rock shox wanted 1er to change spring from hard ( yellow) to medium(blue) but don't need to do it knowhope soon a real test

I just did this mod and it feels incredible. Like a completely different fork. I was having a really tough time using the top 2 - 3" of travel on my fork even with it on the softest setting. Now, it's perfect!Thanks man. Awesome Vid.

Its a threshold valve that will keep the fork semi locked out until a hard enough bump comes to overcome the threshold setting, then it opens up and acts like suspension again. It also limits oil flow for people who dont care about that lockout feature.

i've succesfully loosen those kind of clips with a tiny flathead screwdriver. Be carefull not to poke through your hand tho as it slips easely. The tool isn't that special and i'm pretty sure any decent tool shop sells them for like 20$

They're not "tweezers". They are called "snap-ring pliers", and are a specific tool that can be purchased at nearly any hardware store. Some models may have bent ends, but many models actually come with replaceable tips, so that you can choose between using straight tips, or a variety of differently bent tips. The latter is the recommended tool, since, depending on application, you might need a different length or degree of bend in the tip in order to reach the snap-ring you're trying to remove/install.

Totems are absolute pieces of junk. Bought some 3 days ago and have already had to replace the seals, because the clowns at the factory didn't notice that they put a shredded one in my forks. Go with a Marzocchi instead....or a Fox. Save your money and time.

NO - the 2010 damper is opened up even more and also has the proper shimming for it AND proper rebound. The mod doesn't take into effect either which is why some of us went back (I missed the ability to slow oil flow for bigger FR hits to prevent bottoming as it adds to the high speed compression circuit; have since switched to the 2010 dampers and is 100% better than the mod).

It is not applicable for Pike. There are other mods to the Motion control you can do but this is only for the Mission Control systems. And Deryck, there is no consequence. The lockout forces the button up or down to close off ports. With the button removed (results of this mod), it will have no effect whatsoever what position the actual lockout dial is in.

I did this mod about a year ago on my Lyrik, fork came alive afterwards. I was able to effectively use the low speed afterwards to dial out fork dive and it is more active on the brake bumbs and quick, successive hits. Some people have played with oil weights after removing floodgate but I did not have the need to. I bought some different weights but never went about messing with it. Highly recommend for those running the mission control who don't use the lockout.