While the extensive menu covers the basics, it also offers a range of lesser-known regional delicacies, such as the “famous appetizer” of curry puffs filled with carrots, onion, corn and a potato mixture combined with curry powder.

There are Sino-ized dishes like the rich pork braise that is muu paloo, and the iconic appetizer called miang kum---delicate spinach leaves topped with nubbins of kaffir lime leaf, pork cracklings, peanuts, garlic and shallots.

There is a good selection of vegetarian dishes, too. Upon request, flavors are amplified in the same fashion as one would find on a street in Bangkok. Finish your meal with baked taro custard or durian ice cream.

We like the pu pad pong garee --- a stir-fried soft shell crab dish with shrimp and curry powder --- as well as the tom khar gai, the ubiquitous chicken-and-coconut milk soup, balanced with lime juice, galangal, chilies and mushrooms.

The dessert menu is varied, with selections such as sweet taro custard; coconut, ginger or green tea ice cream; and a fried banana. We can’t get enough of the deep-fried ice cream topped with honey syrup and sesame seeds.