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Friday, May 3, 2013

Just as an info:
Murgtal has now really started. The barrier is open since a few days. On Monday this week the barrier was still closed... but on Wednesday it was possible to drive up to the lake.

Last Monday Aldo and myself went up to Murgtal, despite of some risk for rain. Luckily it stayed dry and we were able to start some new projects. Aldo wanted to have a look to my boulder "Sojus, 7C+" and myself wanted to have a look to another variant to Sojus, which was still unclimbed.
As I climbed "Sojus", I was not able to upload some pictures for this blog. Now I can give you some impressions of this boulder. ;)

Aldo is trying Sojus...

Same position, other view...

Myself before the last move up to the final jug (dyno)...

In the last picture you can see the final jug, quite a distance above the last holds. It is not possible to get it statically... you definitely have to jump!
This is also the reason for the name "Sojus". Sojus is a Russian carrier rocket and also for this last move you have to ignite the rocket. :)

While Aldo tried Sojus, I started to work on another variant to it. It is possible to start at "Chüngel, 7C", cross "Sex & the city, 6C+" and do then the final crux moves of "Sojus, 7C+". This start-variant has some more moves and feels a bit harder than the original start at Sex & the city. To get a comparison I did this version again, but the difference is not big and the new line could also be the same grade.

Anyway... a few attempts later I got the final jug and added "Taurus, 8A" as a new line to this nice boulder. Compared to other lines at Murgtal I think 8A is appropriate, but the future will show the truth.
Also Taurus is a carrier rocket... however, an American. ;)