What climbing skins should I get for my Rossi BC 70 xc skis? They're 189 cm, waxless, fish scale kick zone, metal edges. Should I just get whatever full-length Black Diamond skin fits them? Can I just leave the skin on the entire time?

Right now, I can barely make it up gradual slopes without needing to herringbone. For constant uphills, it's easier for me to just remove the skis, but that wouldn't work in deep mountain snows.

Roger: In that case, it is odd! I'm quite a newbie at skiing, so I shouldn't dismiss lack of proper technique so quickly. Even with significant weight on one ski, it doesn't seem to grip very well. (Edit: I can kick and glide decently on flat sections though.) I'm pretty sure the skis are matched to my weight (240 lbs/109.1 kg with daypack). I encountered two other skiers on the way back, and their tracks indicate they skied up sections I herringboned (and walked before donning skis). I'm pretty sure they didn't have skins.

Uh oh. I was just thinking and reading about what I may have done wrong. I waxed the entire ski with Swix universal rub-on wax, including the scaled area (but with the scales, not against). I guess I was thinking that the grip was purely mechanical from the scales, but one website says not to wax this area.

You've ventured into a complex subject, Andy. I'll go over a few points in order of complexity.

It may well be technique. When your skis start to slip it's natural to lean forward at the waist. Unfortunately this moves your weight even further forward, lessening the weight on the skis and thus their grip. Keep your spine upright, and bend at the knees when going uphill. Practice, practice. Do not look at your skis, a sure sign you're leaning forward.

Rossi fishscales are not the most aggressive out there. Alpina and Karhu skis have more aggressive patterns that will climb a little bit better.

Fishscales work best in dense, moist snow. Early season snow tends to be light and dry.

I use iron-in glide wax on the fishscale areas of my skis, because it stops sticky snow from icing up on the bottoms. This is only a problem in certain conditions. I iron the wax into the fishscales as usual, then pass over 10" areas with the iron on high heat, using paper towels to soak up the excess wax, then a razor blade to clean the final bits of excess wax out while it's still warm. This is a pain, but worth it, and doesn't have to be done too often. Spray on waxes are, IMO, worthless.

You might consider kick skins, rather than full length skins. In either case, you'll want skins the full width of the ski underfoot, with the metal edges just exposed.

Aside from kick waxing (which is very effective in light, dry snow), kicker skins might be your best option.

> I waxed the entire ski with Swix universal rub-on wax, including the scaled area Um - that's not my recommendation!I wax the tip and tail (the non-fishscale) sections. I put a small amount of 'anti-freeze' on the fishscale section to prevent snow from sticking and freezing up there, but not much.

Either Black diamond or (my favorite) G3 skins. G3 makes the longest skins and I got them to fit my 210 cm. Asnes Combi Combat Norwegian army skis. NOW I have grip!

I'd recommend trim cutting any skins to the exact profile of your skis to get the max grip. No sense going narrower sinc you've already paid the for grip. Be sure to use a good spray-on ice preventer.

Also, wrap the stored skins around your waist under your coat to keep them warm and easy to peel apart. Failing that keep the factory package backing and stick one strip between them. (Not alaways easy to do in the wind.)