What is the first item to break?

I have a 98 1/2 ton and have just started to take it on the trails. After reading other peoples rants (on other forums) about people not going prepared for breakage I don't want to hold anyone up because I did not come prepared. So back to the question.. what breaks first? Do I need to cary spare shafts for the 10 bolt? Do I need to bring something for the front? I still have open diffs F &amp; R if that matters. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
/forums/images/icons/confused.gif

Admiting my ignorance here but are the front shafts and u-joints interchanable from side to side? I should get out the Haynes but thought I would ask. Thanks for the advice BlazerGuy. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

U-joints from side to side.....No. you got CV joints. those can go on their own, right at the boot /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif i'm not sure if the half shafts are interchangeable from Pside to Dside...I want to say no, but I can't remember.

take ujoint for your F and R dshafts. usually when the 10blt goes, it grenades the spider gears inside the diff, so spare shafts really wouldn't help there.

Take a look under the front end and you'll see that the passenger side output shaft, that's part of the diff assembly, is longer than the drivers side. This makes up for the diff offset, so that both sides take the same half shaft. /forums/images/icons/cool.gif A rebuilt half shaft is about $100 plus a core deposit at Autozone.

Well then that answers the question I had yet to ask about the full float kit for the 10 bolt. So I still have yet to grab the haynes so I have to ask, is the ujoint the same front to rear and end to end? Also is the CV joint a field fix? I know I have a lot to learn but if a CV joint fails is the vehicle still drivable? Without the ability to disconnect the wheel from the shaft (locking hubs) can it still run in 2WD? /forums/images/icons/confused.gif

The CV joints are held on with 6 bolts at the diff and one very large nut at the wheel end. They can be done in the field. The wheel end is 1 3/8" so you'll need that and I think the diff bolts are 5/8".

The U joints are the same all around. They can be changed in the field but from the factory they're held in with a plastic injected into the yoke. You need heat or a big press to get them apart. A small propane torch works fine. If a CV goes in the field it's possible to still drive for very short distances and also very slow. The problem is the shaft will bang around because part of it is always attached to the wheel and will turn with the wheel.

If you're interested, I have an extra set of front axle shafts that have around 10K miles on them. They came off an '89 light duty 3/4 ton but I think they're the same. You'd have to call your local dealer or auto store to verify. Send me an email if you're interested, we'll work something out.

How wild do you expect to get with it?
The truck's wheeling abilitys are kinda limited. It just wasn't built to take on Moab/Rubicon type trails (where brakeing parts is part of the game). It's fine for mild trail rides, and will probably hold up quite well.
I really have no idea what would brake first, but I would swap-out U-joints before-hand. As stated above, the factory U-joints are held inplace by a injected plastic that can be all-most impossible to remove without heat.

I would consider buying another "trail-only" rig.
It doesn't have to be fancy, high-perf, or cost alot. Simplisity is the name of the game.
You might be able to find a clapped-out, rusted down, dirt-bag K-5 for a few hundred dollers- and I'll bet you will have far-more fun in it, than you will in your "clean" '97 truck. If you dent or scratch the beater - who cares! If it is damaged beond repair, no-big deal. Do you see where I'm going with this.
Just my opinion, but I think it's something to think about.

ALL, Thank you for all of the information. Yes I have considered getting a trail only rig but if I went that way I might go with two wheels instead of four. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif

I do have another question. /forums/images/icons/confused.gif
What years are the half shafts interchangable. I call NAPA to get a rebuilt one and they say they are the same from 1988-1999 and then I call a salvage yard that says the 1998 and 2000 are unique. NAPA wants a bunch for the core so I don't want to just hand them cash I don't need to.
Thanks in advance for your help. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

Although if you do have to pay a core charge for them, when you buy a CV shaft it comes with a lifetime warranty. When you break one in the field save it and bring it back and they'll give you your deposit back. Then after that all that you will have to pay is the core charge and tax.

Maybe not on the trail, but shortly there after! Wheel bearings in the front! I have a 90 GMC and the bearings are 300 CDN! they are the nogreasable ones! Watch out. only took me 6 month to cook a set!

Useful Searches

>
About Us>
>
In May of 1999 CK5 started out as a tribute to America's favorite 4x4 utility truck. Since then it has grown to be
a leader among full size Chevrolet K5 Blazer and GMC Jimmy web sites across the Internet. CK5 has since expanded
to include the C/K series GM Truck and Suburban as well as past and present GM models.
>>
With its technical articles, factory specifications, photo gallery, classifieds, active message forum, product
reviews and original automotive content it's an unbeatable source.