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2:1 or 1:1 lever pics for PTO/Hyd Pump?

11-13-2008, 05:19 PM

Looking for som pics/ideas to make a 2:1 or 1:1 lever to move a shaft to engage a hydraulic pump on a crane truck. It was direct pill off the end of the shaft via a 5/16" solid end cable but we are reversing and pulling from the opposite side and the shaft is irreversible. So now the cable comes from the other direction and will have to be about 2" minimum above the shaft center and I need a way to pull it. I tried welding an arm on a bolt that went sraight up perpindicular from the end of the shaft but it puts an odd tension on the shaft and won't engage it. Dave

Do you have an air shift pto or is it cable? I built a dump truck last spring and the pto was air shift, so i went to a parts store called tebco, they build dump trucks too. They sold me a ''tower'' that the lever for the air shift pto lever mounted into, and i bought a pump kit that also mounted in the tower. It is a locking T-handle that has a cable slide that bolts to a lever that pulls and pushes to engage and disengage the pump. I made the bracket the pump mounted on so I welded the bracket from the kit on to it, but it can also be bolted to something. It is a lot harder to explain than it is to install. The whole kit, tower and cable was $220, and it took a couple of hours to put it on. I'll see if I can put pictures of it on here tomorrow.

Comment

Ok, this is what I have started to make. It's my poor attempt at ms paint LOL. I have the parts made and my drawing is not nearly to scale. The shaft that needs to be pushed/pulled to engage/disengage pump is 3/4" diameter with a detent ball. It takes a good whack with ur palm to engage/disengage. Orinally the cable had some brackets and pulled directly off the end of the shaft where the lever hooks to it. No, I am keeping the same engage direction but reversing where the cable is coming from. At the same time I am increasing leverage at a a 2:1 ratio. It's pretty simple but hope it works. Th shaft needs to throw1 3/8" overall, so the cable end of my lever needs to move approx 2 3/4" overall. The holes in the lever are at 3 5/8" center to center for the outside and the middle hole is about 1 3/16" from either hole on center. The link that attaches to the shaft and lever is to allow the slight vertical movement of the pivot point on the lever as it is pulled and the angle changes. Otherwise you would be attempting to pull the shaft upwards. Does this make sense? Does anyone think it will/won't work? Thanks. Dave

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My bad I wasnt paying attention to the picture or that you all ready have the cable. That is simalar to what I did on the dumptruck. I have mine set to where it does not fully disengage, so if I don't dump the whole load the bed doesn't slam down.

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My bad I wasnt paying attention to the picture or that you all ready have the cable. That is simalar to what I did on the dumptruck. I have mine set to where it does not fully disengage, so if I don't dump the whole load the bed doesn't slam down.

Comment

You might want to put a slot in the end of your pivot arm that conects to the pump rod. also the pump will blow sooner our later running the truck at any speed for very long with the pump engaged.d.o.t. says you have to have a light on your dash when the pump is engaged, not a bad idea I've forgotten about mine more then once.

Comment

You might want to put a slot in the end of your pivot arm that conects to the pump rod. also the pump will blow sooner our later running the truck at any speed for very long with the pump engaged.d.o.t. says you have to have a light on your dash when the pump is engaged, not a bad idea I've forgotten about mine more then once.

Comment

Ok, this is what I have started to make. It's my poor attempt at ms paint LOL. I have the parts made and my drawing is not nearly to scale. The shaft that needs to be pushed/pulled to engage/disengage pump is 3/4" diameter with a detent ball. It takes a good whack with ur palm to engage/disengage. Orinally the cable had some brackets and pulled directly off the end of the shaft where the lever hooks to it. No, I am keeping the same engage direction but reversing where the cable is coming from. At the same time I am increasing leverage at a a 2:1 ratio. It's pretty simple but hope it works. Th shaft needs to throw1 3/8" overall, so the cable end of my lever needs to move approx 2 3/4" overall. The holes in the lever are at 3 5/8" center to center for the outside and the middle hole is about 1 3/16" from either hole on center. The link that attaches to the shaft and lever is to allow the slight vertical movement of the pivot point on the lever as it is pulled and the angle changes. Otherwise you would be attempting to pull the shaft upwards. Does this make sense? Does anyone think it will/won't work? Thanks. Dave

The old school Military 5 Ton Wreckers had a clevis and pin setup.
What if you applied that to both the cable(top of your drawing) to the lever,if possible,
and also at the main push/pull shaft?.
Maybe on your shaft one you ran two of them back to back with threaded rod in between, so you can adjust your travel?.

Comment

What are you using on the other end of the cable? Is it just the "shift knob" that slides in and out or can you put another lever on that end also. More leverage will give you more control so you dont have to "whack" it.

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thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
sigpic feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.james@newyorkmetalart.comsummer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES