There is great information here about upgrading running lights to LED, so I am making the attempt. I am curious how others have routed the wire in the back of the LED. As you can see in my pictures, on the new LED light the wire sticks out the back in a way that the light can not lay flat against the skin of the Airstream.

Also on the Airstream, the grommet for the existing wire sticks out. This also interferes with mounting the new light.

There is great information here about upgrading running lights to LED, so I am making the attempt. I am curious how others have routed the wire in the back of the LED. As you can see in my pictures, on the new LED light the wire sticks out the back in a way that the light can not lay flat against the skin of the Airstream.

Also on the Airstream, the grommet for the existing wire sticks out. This also interferes with mounting the new light.

Should I be drilling a new hole and rerouting the wire?

Did I purchase the wrong running lights for my year and model?

Any advice is appreciated!!

Open up the hole to accomodate the new location of the wiring.

Make sure you also "ground" one side of the new LED clearance lights.

After the lights are installed, add a small bead of sealer, completely around the base of the light.

I am not aware of any LED clearance light that has wiring that matches the original lights. In that context, no, you don't have the wrong lights.

I think consensus will be that drilling more holes in Airstream skin is invitation for more water to move in and make floor and upholstery damp...

Not sure how those were matched to your trailer, but we've had success just replacing small press-in bulbs with LED versions... If You really want to surface-mount, I'd consider making a spacer plate under the new light wth a channel for the wire, and seal it well with non-silicone sealant when you put it together...

(Wetness is to be feared more than a little darkness... )

__________________Condoluminum

In Theory, there's no difference between Theory and Practice, but in Practice, there is usually a difference...

I used the base from the original lights. Cleaned out the old sockek and connections. The new light matched up to the old base. Used stainless sheet metal screws thru the new light and the old base. One of these is where you put the ground. Between the new fixture and the old base there is 1/4 inch for the hot wire connection. Like Andy said be sure to butter everything up. Sal.

__________________Sal & Nora
Let us live so that when we die even the undertaker will be sorry. Mark TwainAIR 42483TAC N.J. 17 WBCCI 24740

I didn't want to make another hole (I've got enough leaks), so I played with the light itself and found I could etch away some plastic enough to make the wire lie flat. I tried to work with the grommet and realized I couldn't get it to work. I ditched it and just made sure I sealed everything up well.

I am happy with it. The first one took 3 hrs. The second took 30 minutes.

As Andy said seal the edge. I would run a bead of sealant from the left side around the top to the right side but not along the bottom. Use grey Parbond Aluminum Sealer 5524 I believe is the better one to use on the outside skin.

As Andy said seal the edge. I would run a bead of sealant from the left side around the top to the right side but not along the bottom. Use grey Parbond Aluminum Sealer 5524 I believe is the better one to use on the outside skin.