If you're going to wax the thread, after running it over the cake of beeswax, you should put the thread in a piece of folded paper and iron the paper with the thread inside. If you don't, the wax may come off on the fabric.

I personally don't think it would be necessary to wax the thread in this situation.

I doubt it matters, but the only time I've ever been taught to use a double strand of thread was on buttons. Although people don't always do it, in that situation I would wax the thread for strength and to keep it from tangling.

Sorry to drag you all back a few stages ut can I ask why we are fusing the arm facings? The pattern instructins don't require it - will the cap sleeve become too stiff and a bit sticky-outyas a result? I have done mine but just wondered about the rationale?

In addition - would you bind the edges of the facings rather than just pinking or will that make them too bulky and create problems when ironing the garment? Its just that I know I will need to bung this dress in the machine so I want it to be as durable as possible.

Hi Gertie. Another great tutorial. I was a bit confused by the pattern instructions concerning the side seam and facing, but now all is clear.

I stitched very patiently and evenly in those tight curves of the facings, pressed, clipped, understitched etc. etc. yet i am getting wrinkles in the tight curves when I turn the facing inside the garment. Any idea why this is happening and how to keep it from happening next time?

In the video it looks as if the bust dart is not sewn down. Did you sew the side seam up to the dart, stop, and restart the side seam with the dart out of the way? If so, why? Or am I just not seeing this correctly?

sewsister, I don't wax my thread before doing small jobs like this one.

I always use a double strand for jobs that require extra strength. Zippers are another good example of a place you use double strands.

Lin2too, I fused the facings only because I inadvertently ignored the pattern instructions! I do worry that they'd be too flimsy without interfacing, though. They might be more apt to flip out. It's up to you though!

Jilly, you might need to trim even closer to the stitching line, especially around those tight curves.

Lin2Too, why not do a test scrap and see how it presses? I tend to avoid binding lightweight fabrics because I don't want ridges pressed into the outside. But I usually wash my dresses by hand, so I don't have the same durability concerns as you. I would give it a go with a little scrap. It might be totally fine!

Or you could zigzag, which is lower-bulk than binding. Let me know how it goes!

Hi, I just wanted to tell you how much I appreciate all of your wonderful tips and tutorials. I am not doing the sew-along. However, I am making a sheer georgette dress that is also underlined. I have been sewing for more than 15 years, yet I am gaining new skills with all of your advice. Thanks again!

Wonderful tutorials...I'll be coming back to them once I finish making muslins....I posted more muslin pics on the flickr group (name is krncpa), still need more adjustments....however, determined to figure out my fitting problems on this...

I'm also not doing the sew-along, but these posts have helped me a lot on my current project anyways! Tacking down is something I've never been sure whether I was doing correctly or not - thanks for the video!