Current affairs in Istanbul

The mighty waters of the Bosphorus flow through the very heart of the Turkish city, dividing the romantic ideals of Europe from the intoxicating hubbub of Asia. Along these shores empires have risen and fallen, myths have been born and voyages have begun. Stanley Stewart takes to the shimmering straits in all manner of vessels to trawl the city's waterside delights, criss-crossing from stylish modern enclaves to traditional neighbourhoods little changed for hundreds of years.

The harbour master was that sweet but erratic creature: a man in love. He tended the little dock at Çengelköy, on Istanbul's Asian shore, and when I appeared one morning on the quayside to watch the passing ships, he invited me into his whitewashed station for tea.

Within five minutes, he was pouring out his heart, waxing lyrical about life, love and the Bosphorus. He had met the most wonderful girl. Skipping any talk of courtship or a possible wedding, he moved straight to the honeymoon destination.

'The Bosphorus,' he smiled. 'Right here on the Bosphorus.'

I marvelled that he should want to honeymoon where he lived and worked.

'But I only live here at Çengelköy. a small place,' he said. 'We will explore. We will go down to Büyükada in the Princes' Islands. And up to Yoros Castle on the Black Sea. The Bosphorus is a whole world.'

He spread his hands to encompass the view from the window: the arching suspension bridge, the parade of passing ships, the ferry chugging towards us from the direction of Bebek. 'And nowhere in the world is as romantic.'

'What does your bride say?' I asked.

He paused. 'I haven't asked her yet,' he said.

'The honeymoon can be a surprise,' I replied.

'Well...actually, I haven't asked her to marry me yet.' A frown of anxiety crossed his face. Then he brightened. 'I will ask her tonight. Come tomorrow. I will tell you the good news.'

Fourteen hundred years ago, the Greek historian Procopius described Constantinople as beign 'garlanded by water', and it is water that still makes Istanbul so beautiful. Dividing Europe from Asia, the Bosphorus is Istanbul's Grand Canal, commanding the very heart of the city. But this is no murky waterway of tourist gondolas. The Bosphorus is an ocean strait full of ocean-going ships, bringing the idea of voyages and destinations of high seas and distant ports, into the confinement of the city streets.

The name means ox ford, and refers to a legend of Zeus' infidelity; his wife Hera, on discovering he kept a mistress, turned her into an ox, then had horseflies chase her across the straits, biting her rump. Odysseus crossed it, Jason and his Argonauts followed it in search of the Golden Fleece, Darius spanned it with a bridge of boats, it was even said to have been the source of the biblical flood.

On its shores Byzas built Byzantium and Constantine built Constantinople. The city became Istanbul when the Turks swept across the straits in the 15th century, making it the capital of the sprawling Ottoman Empire that lasted, miraculously, from well before the time of Columbus until the eve of World War I. When the new Turkish Republic was forged in the 1920s, they gave Istanbul a break, moving the capital east to Ankara. But the city on the Bosphorus remains Turkey's pre-eminent presence, the focus on all culture and commerce, and witness to the greatest shipping lane within hailing distance of thousands of bedroom windows.

More than 50,000 international vessels transit the straits every year - almost 140 a day or one every 10 minutes - from oil tankers to tramp steamers, from Chinese container vessels to cruise liners. Add to this the local boats - ferries, water taxis, yachts, dinghies, motor launches, tiny fishing caiques - and it amounts to a thrilling panorama of ships. At the end of the best streets, there will always be boats bobbing by. If the Bosphorus is not the backdrop to your visit to Istanbul, you are in all the wrong places.

Thirty-one kilometres long, the straits join the Black Sea, via the Sea of Marmara, to the Mediterranean. Barely 700 metres wide at its narrowest point, and prone to swirling winds and rogue currents, the Bosphorus is a challenge to the best pilots. Navigation aids have made it safer, but I remember a time when residents of the Ottoman yalis (mansions) along the shores told amusing anecdotes of being awoken in the middle of a foggy winter night to find a Russian freighter parked in the living room.

But the straits have always been more than just a waterway. They are also an idea. It was with the 'enlightenment' of Ottoman culture in the 18th century - a time known, rather sweetly, as the Tulip Era - that Istanbul began to embrace the Bosphorus. Aristocrats built pavilions along its airy shores, and the sultan moved into a new European palace on a quayside. No longer a defence, the straits came to be seen as a connection to the outside world. The Bosphorus became a metaphor for openness, a way of looking at the world.

For me, it was an opening to Asia, lying on the far banks, and the starting point for my two longest expeditions. I drove a Land Rover across its newly opened bridge into Asia to begin an 18-month search for the ancient Persian Royal Road, and I caught a Russian freighter from the old docks at Tophane to Sevastopol, wending up the dark Bosphorus in the middle of the night, to start a journey through Asia that would end in a 1,000-mile ride across the steppes of Mongolia.

Every time I come to Istanbul, the Bosphorus is the first thing I want to see. Every time, I am thrilled by this great slice of ocean running through the centre of the city with its ever-changing panorama of ships. All the best outings in Istanbul begin or end at the water. Boats are one of the city's great pleasures, and I go everywhere they can take me.

This time there were little wooden ferries, still the lifeblood of Istanbul in spite of the new bridges, shuttling between Europe and Asia. There were local cruise bots, weaving upstream between the two continents, as the docks and harbours diminished from bustling cargo ports to quiet backwaters. There was a river-taxi trip up the Golden Horn to the Eyüp shrine with an old hadji in a woolly cap and a silk waistcoat, and another to Kanlica with a voluble fisherman who caught five bluefish trawling lines from the stern. There was the weekend ferry to Büyükada in the Sea of Marmara, where the houses are as ornate as Mississippi steamboats and the only traffic is horse-drawn carriages. And the vision, coming home, of the spectacular silhouette of Sultanahmet, garlanded with lights, rising from a dark sea.

I sought out quayside restaurants to savour the view of the dark water with its trembling reflections. I ate in Asia, in restaurants in the districts of Kanlica and Beylerbeyi and Kadıköy, just because Bosphorus crossings bookended the evening. There is no greater pleasure than coming home by boat after a long dinner, standing out on the deck as you weave between freighters and ferries, feeling the Kozkavuran Fırtınası, the Wind of the Roasting Walnuts, blowing across the straits from the hills of Anatolia.

It was a few days before I caught a ferry from Eminönü to Çengelköy, back to my new best friend, the harbour master. In the harbour building I found him playing solitaire by the window. He put the kettle on.

His expression gave no clue, and I did not ask until we had our small tulip-shaped glasses of sweet black tea in front of us. He took a deep breath.

'She says she must speak to her family.' He shrugged. 'You know what families are like. They are keener on doctors than boatmen.'

'Did you mention the honeymoon?' I asked. After a few days in Istanbul, I had come to see it, like him, as the deal-maker.

'I did,' he laughed. 'Let me just say, she is not so in love with the Bosphorus.'

He gazed out across the straits at the lights coming on along the European shore. 'It makes me wonder - how can someone not love the Bosphorus?' He seemed hurt suddenly. 'Perhaps she is not the right girl after all.'

Istanbul Modern This contemporary art museum inhabits a stylishly restored warehouse in the old dock district of Tophane. Permanent exhibitions tracing the emergence of figurative art in Turkey are complemented by conceptual installations, a cinema, an art library and photographic exhibitions that chronicle the changing face of Istanbul. There is also a splendid restaurant with a terrace on the Bosphorus and one of the best views of the city. But a warning: ring ahead to make srue there isn't a cruise ship moored at Tophane or your only view will be rows of cabin windows. Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi (00 90 212 334 7200; www.istanbulmodern.org)

Eyup and the Pierre Loti Café The Golden Horn is the Bosphorus's little sister, a short tributary along whose bankst he oldest parts of the city were built. Take a ferry upriver beneath the minarets and domes of the magnificent Süleymaniye Mosque and disembark at Eyüp Ensari, the holiest shrine in Istanbul. The surrounding stalls and shops provide a fascinating selection of street food and gifts for pilgrims. A funicular takes you up to the hill at the atmospheric Pierre Loti Café, named for the French writer who loved to sit here beneath the trees enjoying one of the world's finest panoramas - the view down over the Golden Horn to the domes of Sultanahmet and the mouth of the Bosphorus. [i]Gümüşsuyu Karyağdı Sokak (00 90 212 581 2696)

Dolmabahçe Palace Built in the mid-19th century, the Dolmabahçe was a last-ditch attempt on the part of Ottoman sultans to sit up straight. They moved here, from the cushioned divans of the Topkapi Palace to straight-backed Louis XIV chairs, with the idea that they should remodel themselves as progressive modern monarchs. Naturally, the idea didn't include cutting back on royal expenditure. The palace's interiors were designed by the chap who did the Paris Opera, and it has the world's largest Bohemian crystal chandelier, a staircase with Baccarat crystal balustrades, a terrace that seems to run for several miles and 285 rooms. Most of the rooms were devoted to the ever-expanding harem. Sex, presumably, was some consolation for growing political impotency. Dolmabahçe Caddesi, Beşiktaş (00 90 212 327 2626; www.millisaraylar.gov.tr)

Kilic Alipasha Mosque One of my favourite mosques in Istanbul, this gorgeous place sees few tourists but plenty of local worshippers who hustle in from the surrounding streets at prayer time to make their ablutions at the beautiful fountains in the courtyard. Designed by the great Sinan, it is based on Hagia Sophia and dedicated to an Italian slave who, when freed, became a Muslim and an Ottoman admiral. A few metres from the water and the old docks, the interior is flooded with Bosphorus light. Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi, Tophane

Beylerbeyi Palace Originally a royal summer residence and guest house, this 19th-century palace is where the last sultan lived out his final years under house arrest. A smaller and more pleasing version of the colossal Dolmabahçe, it still has all the usual extravagances - Bohemian chandeliers, Chinese vases, vast Russian murals and gilded ballrooms the size of football fields. Among the great attractions are the terraced gardens, which include a large 19th-century swimming pool. Abdullahağa Ağa Caddesi, Beylerbeyi (00 90 212 327 2626; www.millisraylar.gov.tr)

Sakip Sabanci Museum The trip here by ferry is half the fun, but this museum of fine arts, set in a sumptuous private villa, is one of the best in the city. It hosts touring exhibitions (recent ones have included Picasso and Rembrandt) and its own collection concentrates on exquisite Ottoman calligraphy. Plan your visit in time for lunch; the restaurant, MüzedeChanga, has a terrace overlooking the straits. Sakip Sabanci Caddesi 42, Emirgan (00 90 212 277 2200; http://muze.sabanciuniv.edu)

Tugra Restaurant and Lounge A formal dining room in the Çırağan Palace Kempinski hotel, a 19th-century royal residence, Tugra comes with bags of atmosphere, live music and some of the finest food in the city. The menu is in two parts, with traditional Ottoman-palace dishes for the purists and a contemporary take for more modern palates. Grab a table on the balcony. Çırağan Caddesi 32. About £80 for two (00 90 212 236 7333; www.ciragan-palace.com)

Park Fora Set in a waterfront park in Ortaköy, this elegant fish restaurant caters for a sophisticated clientele. Waiters in black waistcoats and white aprons ferry plates of grilled fish and platters of meze to the tables on its Bosphorus terrace. Atatürk's elegant boat, the Savarona, is moored nearby. The great man would have loved this place. Muallim Naci Caddesi 54. About £110 for two (00 90 212 265 5063; www.parkfora.com)

Ismet Baba Restaurant This little place at the water's edge on the Asian shore, a five-minute taxi ride from the dock at Üsküdar, is as local as they come. A display case at the entrance contains photos of regulars who have gone on to the great tea house in the sky: Carpenter Vasil, Policeman Cevdet, Poet Can, Boat Captain Fazli, Actor Arciman, and so on. The waiters, who look like they might join them soon, are old pros who will guide you through the menu. Carsi Caddesi 1A. About £30 for two (00 90 216 341 3375; www.ismetbaba.com.tr)

Banyan In bustling Ortaköy, close to the First Bosphorus Bridge, this fusion restaurant with a South-east Asian bent has a splendid terrace on the straits and glass partitions to protect you from rogue winds. Muallim Naci Caddesi. About £40 for two (00 90 212 259 9060)

Aqua The restaurant in the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus has an imaginative menu that combines Turkish and Italian influences. This is impeccable dining with great service, great food and great waterfront views. Highly recommended.ÇırağanCaddesi 28. About £90 for two (00 90 212 381 4059; www.fourseasons.com/bosphorus)

Ciya This place in Kadıköy is not on the waterside, but the ferry trip back and forth gives you all the fun of the Bosphorus, so we will make an exception for what is one of the best examples of a classic Turkish restaurant. There are great kebabs, hearty mains and wonderful meze. Pick what you want and they weigh your plate. Guneslibahce Sk 43. About £20 for two (00 90 216 330 3190; www.ciya.com.tr)

Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus In a converted Ottoman palace, the Four Seasons is easily the smartest of Istanbul's Bosphorus hotels. Stylish and sophisticated, it offers unrivalled service and an unrivalled position, with a long waterfront esplanade. The spa is the city's finest. Çırağan Caddesi 28. Doubles from about £310 (00 90 212 381 4000; www.fourseasons.com/bosphorus)

Ciragan Palace Kempinski This prominent waterfront property consists of two parts: the old restored Ottoman palace, containing only 11 suites, and a modern annexe. The location is fabulous and the Tugra restaurant is world-class. Çırağan Caddesi 32. Doubles from about £355 (00 90 212 326 4646; www.kempinski.com)

Sumahan on the Water Set on a former raki distillery, this place has plenty of modern touches, from exposed girders to a glass lift. The rooms have vast windows from which to admire the views. Sumptuous breakfasts on the terrace, keen service and a private launch to whisk guests across the straits make this one of the best options on the Asian shore. Kuleli Caddesi 51. Doubles from about £140 (00 90 216 422 8000; www.sumahan.com)

A'jia The first boutique property on the Asian side, A'jia is a restored 19th-century yali that combines white minimalism with traditional features. There is a terrace for dining and daydreaming. Top-floor rooms have the nicest views and, curiously, the best prices. Cobuklu Caddesi 27. Doubles from about £120 (00 90 216 413 9300; www.ajiahotel.com)

A string of villages, now absorbed by the city, runs along both shores of the Bosphorus. For Istanbullus, each retains a distinct character.

Bebek An affluent suburb set on a Bosphorus bay, Bebek is one of Istanbul's smartest addresses. Yachts lie at anchor overlooked by the iconic Egyptian consulate. Steep streets climb away from the promenade into leafy districts of old houses, and along the waterfront there are trendy cafés. Head to Mangerie (www.mangerie.com), Lucca (www.luccastyle.com) and Kitchenette(www.kitchenette.com.tr) for skinny lattes and pastries.

Ortaköy Famous for its lovely waterside mosque, this is the closest village to the city centre. It was described by a 17th-century chronicler as 'full of infidels...[and] a great number of taverns', and not a lot has changed. Abuzz late into the night, the waterfront square is lined with bars, open-air cafés and restaurants, as are the narrow gentrified alleys that lie behind. It's a great place to go for a beer and a nargile (water pipe), or dinner overlooking the water.

Arnavutköy [/b] Quieter than Ortaköy, this neighbourhood retains more of its original character, with wooden houses, overhanging balconies and cobbled lanes. Ali Baba Köfteci (00 90 212 265 3612), a block back from the waterfront on Arnavutköy Caddesi, is one of Istanbul's msot famous köfte restaurants.

Rumeli Hisari This sleepy village takes its name from the fortress that looms above it, built in the 15th century as part of the Ottoman siege of the Byzantine city. Climb the crenellated towers for great views of the Bosphorus or chill in a traditional café, such as Sade Kahve (www.sadekahve.com.tr), beneath the ramparts. In summer there are concerts in the fortress courtyard.

Asian Istanbul is largely residential, and its villages feel more distinct. Less connected to the city's hurly-burly, the residents are ferry people for whom boats are a way of life.

Kadiköy Once a district of wealthy summer villas, Kadiköy has developed into a lively place with a new-found trendiness. Boutiques, bookshops and bric-a-brac shops abound, but the colourful markets are the star turn. Come to shop, stay for lunch.

Haydarpaşa [/b] The grandiose Haydarpaşa Terminal dominates the waterfront here. It was a gift from the Kaiser to the Sultan in 1909 as part of the new Berlin-to-Baghdad railway. North of the station is leafy Haydarpaşa Cemetary. And nearyby, in Selimiye Barracks, is the former hospital where Florence Nightingale worked. To visit the small Florence Nightingale Musuem, fax the time and date of your proposed visit, along with the photo page of your passport, to 00 90 216 310 7929.

Uskudar This area has a selection of fine mosques within walking distance of the ferry terminal. The best, designed by Sinan, is Iskele Cami, opposite the pier. Others include the waterfront Semsi Pasha. A short walk away on Cavusdere Caddesi is Cinili Hamam, voted one of Turkey's 10 best bathhouses.

Beylerbeyi Alleys lead down from the main drag to the old heart of Beylerbeyi, a little square overlooked by a harbour building, cafés and a splendid mosque. This is timeless Istanbul. Come for dinner at the delightful Inciralti restaurant (www.inciralti.com.tr).

Cengelköy Down by the water, the old hub of Cengelköy is now given over to charming fish restaurants and cafés. Load up on pastries from Seval Pastanesi (00 90 216 321 5546), then head to the Tarihi Cinaralti Aile tea house behind the Hamdullah Pasa Mosque.

GETTING THERE British Airways (www.ba.com) flies to Istanbul from Heathrow. Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) flies from Heathrow and Gatwick. Abercrombie & Kent (0845 485 1143; www.abercrombiekent.co.uk) offers five nights in Istanbul, including two nights at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul, including two nights at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus and three nights at Sumahan on the Water on a bed-and-breakfast basis, return British Airways flights and private transfers from £1,495 per person.

GETTING AROUND Istanbul's electronic travel card, the Istanbulkart, operates like London's Oyster card for public transportation, including ferries. Cards are available from all bus, metro and ferry stations, as is the IDO ferry timetable. Alternatively visit www.ido.com.tr or call 00 90 212 444 4436 for ferry routes and times. IDO also operates short and long cruises up and down the Bosphorus from the Boğaz ferry terminal just east of the Galata Bridge in Eminönü. Private cruise companies include Turyol (www.turyol.com) and Dentur Avrasya (www.denturavrasya.com). Water taxis are another great option. They operate from 27 public piers and many private quays. Call 00 90 212 444 4436.