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I would like to add that January 6 2017 we are releasing Bones Super Glue. Works on Metal and Plastic (Bones) and, because it's cyanoacrylate super glue, works on other things too, just like any super glue you'd buy would.

The cap includes a pin to prevent/reduce clogging at the aperture, and it's a nice large .7 oz (20g) bottle so it'll work on hundreds of models.

It has a near-instant cure on Bones material, slightly longer for metal models, and (I learned the hard way) adheres models to skin painfully easily.

Sounds like it will close cuts from the hobby knife quite readily too!

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I found filing/ sanding mould lines much easier if the figures are dipped in ice water put in freezer for a few minutes. This makes the figures less rubbery and more like traditional resin cast figures. Sanding and filing much more like what I was used to doing.

Appreciate the post. I have much trouble with shaving/sanding Bones mold lines ... I get a sort of clumpy, rubble-like finish. Because they are so soft. I'll try this.

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Ok, here is my first NMM paint job. I'm not sure if I dislike the technique, or just picked a bad mini to try it on first. I found it a bit fiddly and frustrating with all of the dully cast spikey bits. I did a pretty quick TT quality job on everything not NMM, so I know there are a lot of places to improve there.

Also, I feel like the photos make it look better than it really is. I'm pretty happy with how the front of the armor turned out, but the shield and shoulder pauldrons were frustrating.

Would truly appreciate any feedback on improving the quality of my NMM!
I'll be doing Mangu next and tracking in the same WIP thread.

I was using this to try a different skin color which I like and I believe I was going to do a bit more detailed TMM but got side tracked. After several months of no work on him, I decided to get him "done" to tabletop level. Here are some shaky iPad photos. C&C welcome.

This guy was to experiment on achieving realistic light colors on a fairly smooth surface (the apron in this case). After several different tries I was happy with the result...then like normal he sat on the paint desk for months. So I decided to finish him to low tabletop level and wash him in ArmyPainters midtone shade which led to a big tied mark. But he is good enough for my sons toy box. C&C appreciated.

The third and final mini from the Layer Up! LTPK, Julie Guthrie’s Hajad the Pirate:

Not gonna try for any better images, because then you would see how badly I messed up the eyes...

Mostly by the book, but I skipped the lining as my little brush was becoming temperamental. Of the three minis in this kit, this is the one I was most looking forward to, as it has the most exposed skin of the three (one of my problem areas). Think I oversold the abs a bit too much though.

Based on issues with the previous minis, I elected to basecoat both weapon blades with Ebony Flesh before applying the metallic. The Filigree Silver included in the kit was too watery to play nice with bare Bonesium, and in any case it was difficult for me to see where the paint actually stuck. Plus, it makes lighter metallics pop.

It was nice to see darker flesh tones included in this kit. The darkest (non-dark elf) skin tone I had available before was Tanned Skin, but my attempts to mix in darker paints always resulted in a weird shade of sadness.

All in all, this kit was a good learning experience. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, and it was neat seeing the colors build up with each layer. The cartoons were cute too. I just hope that my technique improves moving forward. And that painting eyes gets easier.