next wek i have jdm camshafts going in, that should help even things out
also i will zero out the camgears(i running a milled head )and add a cutout to the equation. i am shooting for 200whp with the oem exhaust.
it chokes after 7000 rpms.

torque is great for a stock exhaust engine.
wheel hp is also acceptable for a stock muffler.
the automatic cams is the reason power stoped climbing sharply at 6000 rpms
and the stock exhaust is chokeing it up at 7000 rpms.
i am getting a e cutout and replacing the small auto cams with larger oem jdm cams.
should see well over 200 wheel hp and a redline of 8500 rpms. on all oem internals
nice oem reliabitly on a daily driver

i appreacheate your comments but this is by no means the final product. it just a baseline run. no tuning was done on the dyno.
we only did street tuning so i could break her in.
of course a intake and exhaust would make more hp but i dont care . i like it quite for now.
right now i am shooting for 200whp + with some real dyno tuning and some extra tidbits.
i am very pleased with the baseline dyno.
as i will state again their was no dyno tuning involved

the red run is with the stock airbox and filter along with the stock exhaust and i made 176hp to the wheels and 154 ft of torque
and plus the car drives like stock. no noise what so ever.
compare that to a oem h22 dyno and you will see the difference.

the green run is with the intake arm disconected and
my hp jumped from 176 to 187 without any tuning.
in the summertime i will pull off the exhaust but in the mean time i will make as much power thru it as posible

i would imange that why it looks so peaky.

also the 1997 h22 automatic cams have the smallest vtec lobes of all production h22 engines that why i am switching to jdm cams.

i am going to install a exhaust cutout before the next dyno
That alone will get me 200whp+... but i am going to try to hit that with it closed. i cant complain since i am using oem honda parts.

with the better exhaust/e-cutout i am looking for power between 6000 rpms- 8500 rpms. also the jdm cams will help out alot
even with the torque being alittle peaky i am still making 148ft at 2000 rpms. pull up hills very nicely

lol, pretty worthless post and expected by you.
because i dont want to put on a exhaust and a intake i am a moron, lol
the funny thing is that your wining about someone not taking your worthless advise.such a sissy. lol
my tuner chris at xenocron did a great street tune. i am a very happy custumer

he even told me that my engine hasn't seen the last fuel, timing coloum because of the intake and exhaust.lol
i dont mind my torque curve being the way it is seeing that i still make more torque thru out the entire graph over a cammed h22.
i make more torque over built b and h series engines and i am keeping the factory exhaust, i guess that make you mad. what a sucker.
imagine i keep my car quiet and change my OEM AUTOMATIC CAMS(i know it upsets you to see this) to JDM CAMS and put a K&N DROP IN FILTER in the STOCK AIRBOX and pull over 200whp. I dont know what honda engine putting so much torque and hp thru the FACTORY EQUIPMENT.
Because i dont want to draw any unwanted attention i must be a fool.
you say my car isn't breathing well enough...GREAT. SO.....IF I CAN MAKE SO MUCH HP AND TORQUE ON A ENGINE THAT ISN'T BREATHING WELL THEN I MUST HAVE DONE A GREAT JOB. IMAGINE WHEN I DECIDE TO LET HER BREATH.......IT WILL ONLY MAKE MORE POWER.. OF COURSE . YOUR JUST THE DUMMY WHO FIGURED IT OUT.
GO SUCK ON MY ROLLER COASTER TORQUE CURVE WHILE I CONTINUE TO MAKE QUIET HP.

My tuner has only been tuning on a dyno for about six months. His street tunes are excellent, but then he's also a graduate of EFI University. You can blame the tuning, but your engine isn't breathing well enough.

I'm going to say this and then I'm not replying in this topic again. You are fucking idiot. The reason why your graph looks like shit is because you built your engine like a moron, don't even begin to listen to people who know more than you, fucked up your ports with a bad port job (which is screwing up your flow in the midrange) and yet you blame it on your cams, tune, and tuner? You aren't even intelligent enough to realize that you're losing almost 25wtrq. at 4800rpm and around 20whp at 5000rpm...from where the curves should be. Your engine sucks, compared to what it could be, because of your mindset. Now, I'm completely done banging my head against your brick wall.

Click to expand...

my fucked up ports and factory air box and exhaust probley still make more power than your loud riced up hoopty. go and kiss your efi tuner you:fr: fag

My tuner has only been tuning on a dyno for about six months. His street tunes are excellent, but then he's also a graduate of EFI University. You can blame the tuning, but your engine isn't breathing well enough.

I'm going to say this and then I'm not replying in this topic again. You are fucking idiot. The reason why your graph looks like shit is because you built your engine like a moron, don't even begin to listen to people who know more than you, fucked up your ports with a bad port job (which is screwing up your flow in the midrange) and yet you blame it on your cams, tune, and tuner? You aren't even intelligent enough to realize that you're losing almost 25wtrq. at 4800rpm and around 20whp at 5000rpm...from where the curves should be. Your engine sucks, compared to what it could be, because of your mindset. Now, I'm completely done banging my head against your brick wall.

Click to expand...

also if you read the first post you would see that i put a special note (just for idiots like you to see) saying
"note: when street tuning with the oem equipment the car never reached the last colum of the fuel and timing maps. so the engine is not seeing maximun air flow due to the oem airbox and exhaust.
"
BLANCO REALLY IS A IDIOT

lol
BMW 's were always better engineered than honda's, thats just plain common knowledge.
but I dont care about your BMW

also any modifed engine honda will never reach 100% VE with the oem restricting eminissions equipment.
i would be a fool to think the you were aware that all of this info is common knolwedge.
sigh
this is showing a baseline run that i am very happy with. you had better compare it to some other h22 graphs before you pop shit.
when i put on a smsp header or maybe one from the other 3 companys that make power on a h22, along with jun cams or maybe pro2's in the summer then i would be concerned with a peaky torque curve. but when i am trying to stay low key the only thing i am concerned with running my engine safely.

instead of you mentioning type-s cams to me when i talk about switching to more agressive OEM cams you tell me to take off my muffler.(I AM NOT PUTTING A EXHAUST ON THE CAR). i will finish her up enternally so when i decide to put on a muffler it will be the last thing i do.
grow up, for a guy(if you are) you ack worse than my 5 month old daughter. and you never even had the balls to try to port a head while i am sucessfull at it. sad

to Torco SR-5 and RTF fluid.. simply the best.
don't forget Blanco is a Fucking Idiot

You're an idiot because you miss things that are right in front of your face because you're so concerned with reving high and making peak numbers. Like I already said, your peak numbers look good but the rest of your graph looks like shit. Go look at the dyno of my Z6 in the Multi-Media forum. You'll notice that the curves are fat. That was done with eight pulls and only three cam gear adjustments. After you're done looking at that, read the list of mods. The remind yourself that this was my FIRST build and they will only get better.

It isn't that I'm scared to port a head, it's that I wouldn't brag about the work that you do. When I start porting heads, it won't be what I think works. I'll actually listen to people who are more informed than me...like you don't do on Honda-Tech. See the first sentence of paragraph two. You don't listen to people who've been building engines and porting heads for years because you've got this dumbass idea that you're right because you're confident. That's called arrogance, not confidence. The proof of the build is in the dyno. My build is better than yours because I used what works, not what I think works. You really should listen to people instead of doing R&D that was done over a decade ago.

There's no reason why you shouldn't be able to hit 100% VE just by porting the head. I hit 109% with bolt-ons and a fairly mild cam. You're only hitting 93.4% with head work. What's the problem there?

Now, to the actual point of what I was saying. If you can follow a damned thing. If you put the i/h/e on your engine, it will perform far better and you'll pick up significant power through the mid-range. Put better cams in and it gets even better. Nowhere, other than in your head, did I say that you should get rid of your muffler. You're the one talking about a cut-out instead of spending a few hundred on i/h/e. Fuck man, buy the shit from eBay and it'll still make your engine breathe better than the restrictive stock shit.

You're now added to my ignore list and your private messages will be blocked. I can't wait until you blow your engine up by being a dipshit.

Hey Blanco ,Dont pm me you fool
all you keep saying is to put on a intake headers and exhaust, "I/H/E"
no not at this time, is the summer i might open her up but i like my car quiet for now.
if i were to listen to you then you would be my friend? lol i dont any more fucking friends. get over your self. the the engine is restricted so thats why the graph looks like that. i am happy with it , pretty much all that counts.
and i listen to the people who know what their talking about, and dont get upset and cry like babies when we share a difference in opinion. .

blanco id be interested in how you calculated VE? imo thats something that should be measured and not calculated as VE = (volume IN)/(volume OUT). how are you calculating this? breaking 100% is actually quite hard. only engines ive seen doing it are race motors and some motors built by endyn. unless VE was measured, i wouldnt believe 109% on a lightly modded motor.

Blanco This isn't a comptetion. i seen many d16 get 135whp. with out buying a cam. it really sad, i even built a y8 all oem internals that would pull from a gsr in every gear except 5th. and it took you 8 pulls with tuning to squeeze it out.
i have taken 4 pulls without and ecu tuning, camgear tuning.
i did one base like run(red) with all of the ome stuff connected.
second run (green) was with the airbox unattached
third run (blue) was with the vacume hose taken off of the fuel pressure regulator.
more than happy with the results. i built my engine with a goal.
to see what the rpm capibility of this engine is, Itold you were my rpm zone is and if you look at the graph it exactly how i intended it to look

hp starts coming on after 5000rpms and due so factors i am well aware of it stops at 7 grand. its ok when i am ready to open her up then i will be concernd about extending the power. i have plenty of torque down low so street cruising is a pleasure, exspecially when you so QUIET.

i changed out the 1997 automatic odb2 camshafts for some jdm cams
the lobes on the jdm cams are noticeably larger than the odb2 stuff.
i also installed a k&n drop in air filter into the stock air box.
power improved before vtec but at vtec engaugement and up it runs leaner
Chris at Xenocron will take care of the tuning.
we will use a mustang dyno.
in the summer i have a set of headers and a full 2 1/2 inch exhaust and i will try either skunk pro 1's or rocket m22x cams.
well see how much i can get out of her before then

lets see.
tonight im going back to T&R racing to see what hp my changes have made.
i will be going with the same street tune as before. this is only for three pulls,
with no dyno tuning will be done.
lets see what kind of QUIET hp my idiotic ideas and stupid jagged ports h23 vtec engine is giong to make.
i might have hit my goal with the changes i made

i only changed the cams to jdm honda cams, installed a drop in k&n filter
and made a timing adjustment. i also have taken out the #8 spark plugs gapped to .035 and replaced them with factory part #6 ungapped ngks.