How to Make Ham and Cheese Like a Parisian

Not all hams are created equal. So in the March issue, when we call for ham slices in our recipe for Mushroom Croque-Monsieur (pictured above), we’re talking about the good stuff. Don’t even think about using the sliced kind you find near the shredded cheese (don’t use that cheese, either). It can be slimy and expensive for what you get. You’re better off heading to the deli or, better yet, a local butcher. Tell him or her that you want your ham sliced feathery thin. If it’s too thick, it’s tough to chew and you’re more likely to rip the ham out of the sandwich on the very first bite.

My current go-to ham is the French-style ham (Jambon de Paris) from American-based Les Trois Petits Cochons. It’s juicy, low in sodium, and not too pricey.

For special occasions or when I’m treating myself, I’ll order a five-pound piece of rosemary ham from Fra’Mani (located in Berkeley, California), a specialty producer of all kinds of salumi and meats. D’Artagnan sells a wonderful boneless applewood-smoked heritage ham, which is a favorite as well. The point is that when it comes time to make a sandwich, chose your ham wisely.