I was surprised by the fitment options of the BBB XL Fueltanks. I expected to fit one on the seat tube of the frame but no can do. Its placement of the securing bolts negates its fitment so it had to go on the down tube, both above and below. I'll have to see whether the "below" can stay once I make the addition of fenders.

Last edited by rifraf on Sun May 12, 2013 1:54 am, edited 1 time in total.

Thanks Ricky,I've a strong suspicion I'll be ordering the next size down frame but I'll try a couple of weeks riding before making a final solution.At least now I know what to expect with regards to wait times.With the Aus pricing of the Ogre frame I dont think I'll be too out of pocket if I have to buy a new frame and sell this one.I'm feeling pretty relaxed about it.I've very nearly completed the package with the componentry I wanted so its good to be in the final assembly scenario of the build.I'm very happy with the selection I've picked although as you've pointed out, time may show up the odd exception.Hope your enjoying your tripAnd again watch those big km's dont stop you from smelling the roses, enjoying the views and vistas.

There a few reports of Dyad rims failing (like Ricky's) on the web if you look for them. There are various theories as to the cause, but I think the Velocity simply had a quality issue with certain rims at the time.

The position of the labels (get rid of 'em) and alignment of the drain hole are purely cosmetic, and nothing to be concerned about.

But stop messing about with bike shops - go to Bunnings and get some 12mm threaded rod, a couple of heavy square plate washers (bridge washers) and a couple of nuts. You will be able to pull the headset cups into the frame, one at a time, in about ten minutes. If you bought the right headset with a split crown race then it'll go on by hand, other wise go back to Bunnings for a piece of pipe, and while you are there buy two worm drive hose clamps to use as a cutting guide for the steerer, and a fine-toothed (32tpi) hacksaw blade to cut it.

I've some white spirits for chain cleaning which might work a treat for sticker removal.

I really like my silver wheels and think they help add to the "old school" classic look I was trying to achieve.Of course the black frame contributes to this ideal most, but I think the details help.

I'm not going to lose sleep worrying about the rims. I'll be vigilant in their periodic inspection but not paranoid about it.I can be hopeful that they are from a different batch than Ricky's but at the end of the day, they are built and are what they are. Theres no going back in time second guessing myself.I'll consider 40psi to keep some pressure off them (the tyres have a rating of 30min to 50max from memory) but other than that there's nothing I can do except ride them.

I think I'm fine with the steerer uncut but will make a final decision once your SJS Cycles Thorn adapter has arrived and installed to see whats what.

Actually been down the Bunnings route and currently no threaded rod available in metric according to three Bunnings stores and my local hardware store. On back order. Baalzamon had suggested exploring this idea when he came around. Apparently there is a specialty store dealing in fasteners (nuts and bolts) which I need to find anyway for some more stainless hex bolts so will try for the threaded rod there as well.

Sitting astride the bike, I think I might be ok with the sizing after all. I was in bare feet the other day and was worried about how close the top was was to "the jewels". Not so extreme when in footwear. You were right in that reach doesn't appear to be an issue.She's a big girl though and those big hoops are going to take some getting used to after the Moultons furniture coasters.

Baalzamon wrote:And I checked my local bunnings as well and they only had imperial....

C'mon guys - it doesn't matter what thread. If they don't have 12mm get 1/2 inch.

I just googled "allthread Perth" and got plenty of hits.

Yeah I think I had the star nut installation in the front of my head when I was looking at the threaded rod.I'm about an hour and a half via public transport from Joondalup RonK so getting about isnt as easy as jumping in a car. Getting to two Bunnings in a day and one other hardware store was a major undertaking for me.

Get a bolt about 4 inches long to fit the thread, so you can hold it straight. Then give the bolt head a sharp tap with a hammer or a block of wood. It's springy, so needs a sharp tap to get it started.

RonK wrote:Get a bolt about 4 inches long to fit the thread, so you can hold it straight. Then give the bolt head a sharp tap with a hammer or a block of wood. It's springy, so needs a sharp tap to get it started.

Will do.Thanks for the heads up.

RonK wrote:

rifraf wrote:Its finally cool enough to actually get on the bike. No more than a couple of weeks ago I was loathe to leave the house due to the intense heat.

Hehe, funny I remember warning you about that before you left Mudgee.

Yes you did.Saying that the Queensland weather looks like it has its challanges too! I imagine the local cyclist keep a set of waterwings (floaties) handy in their tool bag for the regular flooding.

RonK wrote:Get a bolt about 4 inches long to fit the thread, so you can hold it straight. Then give the bolt head a sharp tap with a hammer or a block of wood. It's springy, so needs a sharp tap to get it started.

Will do.Thanks for the heads up.

RonK wrote:

rifraf wrote:Its finally cool enough to actually get on the bike. No more than a couple of weeks ago I was loathe to leave the house due to the intense heat.

Hehe, funny I remember warning you about that before you left Mudgee.

Yes you did.Saying that the Queensland weather looks like it has its challanges too! I imagine the local cyclist keep a set of waterwings (floaties) handy in their tool bag for the regular flooding.

Well, I live no more than 100 metres from the Brisbane River and have yet to get wet feet.

I didnt remember to stipulate rim sticker or general orientation as my head was filled with other things this morning.

That's pisspoor by the builder Rif. You shouldn't have to tell them that but I've had wheels built that you'd think a work experience kid did them. A mechanic at a well known Melb shop even built an OCR rear the wrong way round! That's why I build my own now. And (btw I use Velocity exclusively road and MTB w/o probs) I always check the front rim at the join prior to purchase for smoothness, as you want to minimise any shudder under braking.

Hi Uncle Just,yeah lesson learnt.I'll be paying for that download RonK pointed out about wheelbuilding and learning to do it myself althoughI wish I'd just gotten my hubs sent to wheelbuilder.com like I did last time and left in the hands of the professionals.I've gone disk-braked with this build (wanted to see what all the fuss was about), so didn't worry about stipulating machined brake surface.

singlespeedscott wrote:I haven't had much luck with Velocity rims myself. No spectacular failures as above. But I have found them to be very easy to dent when running low pressures on the MTB.

Now that does appear to be a fairly common complaint when reading online reviews on pages like forums.mtbr

Thanks to RonK's generosity in providing a Thorn handlebar bag adapter which is now adorning the Ogre.I determined it was easier to get the bike to the shop than do any more day outings to Bunnings.I had help in that my Landlady felt sorry for me and offered to drop me off first thing this morning so I could be at the door at opening.The worry was that if they took too long I'd not be allowed on the bus with the box during a busy (peak) time.No worries, the job was complete by noon, and I killed the time by taking the train into town and picking up a new Macpac tent.Long story short, I'll let the pics tell the tail such as it pertains to the headset completion with barbag adapter.

Looks good Aidan. Well out of the way of the bars. It doesn't look as out of place as it did on my bike. Perhaps black spacers would make it even more unobtrusive. Is it high enough to clear the rack and fenders?

Thanks Ricky,with the headset done now as well as the wheels, the most obvious things that I cant do are now out of the way and I can get on with the things that I'm not afraid to have a crack at.Came unstuck already and am off today to the city in search of a Torx kit for both the Rohloff shifter and the ability to remove the Oem2 plate so I can add my brakes disk.

RonK wrote:Looks good Aidan. Well out of the way of the bars. It doesn't look as out of place as it did on my bike. Perhaps black spacers would make it even more unobtrusive. Is it high enough to clear the rack and fenders?

Thanks RonK, I'll be finding out later today if I've the height correct in relation to the front rack - fingers crossed.Currently in a situation where I cant order parts from OS due to may be moving, so no fenders till this is rectified.I considered black spacers but wanted some additional chromey bits and bobs to liven up (visually) the black frame and to complement the SS racks (and potentially SS fenders). I'm trying to achieve a "Classic" look and with the addition of my silver rims, spokes and hubs, might just get close to achieving it.

RonK wrote:So what is the verdict now you can see how the bag fits - will you splash the cash for the Jones bar?

I think the bag fits well and I'm happy I didnt go for the shorter length size that Thorn offers.As to the question of the Jones cash splash............ I think so, but the question is which one. I'm still undecided.No matter as the bike still has a ways to go. I was back in the shed today seeing if I could find the best fit for the racks. Your question: "Is it high enough to clear the rack and fenders?" brought on a cold sweat earlier but my heart is no longer in my mouth and neither is my spleen.

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