Follow the "oom pah" music echoing up the stairs to this basement beer hall restaurant in the Municipal House, which is the city's finest example of art nouveau architecture. A favorite of tour groups (especially Germans) as well as locals with a taste for nostalgia, it serves up Czech dishes alongside traditional pilsners. The socialist realism of the tiled wall scenes adds an off-beat twist. The friendly, chatty staff are attentive and will be happy to tell you the history of the pub and building.