Trailer size needed?

This is a discussion on Trailer size needed? within the Full Size Ranger Discussion forums, part of the Polaris Ranger Forum category; I just bought a 2011 Ranger 800 Crew...what is the best size trailer? Will 5 ft wide work, or do I need to go wider?...

Unless they changed the width of the machines, 5' wide will work, but it had better be at least 5' wide INSIDE of the rails. Take a tape measure when you're trailer-shopping, to make sure. And that is a snug fit - have to be real careful loading & unloading, to keep the machine straight and true with the trailer sides, etc.

Not sure on the length for a crew. My trailer that I use most is about 5x8 and I had to modify it to haul my 2006 500 4x4 Ranger. It barely fits. So you will probably be looking at a minimum of 5x10.

I wanted a trailer large enough to haul my Ranger, and light enough to pull it WITH the ranger. I had a local trailer mfg. custom build a 5X10. It's 64 inches wide inside, made from 1-1/2 inch angle iron, with a 18 inch beaver-tail in the rear, and a 3 foot expanded metal gate. The floor is 3/16 inch steel, which I've painted with "Herculiner" from War-Mart. The tires are 15 inches, with a 3500 lb. axle. This gives me two inches of clearance on each side of the Ranger. The trailer is light enough so that the Ranger handles it with no problem.

I have a 77" x 12' tandem trailer with ramp gate that fits my 2011 Crew 800 perfectly. Tires against the front rail, with the ramp closed. Just enough room on each side to step out. The only problem is that I ordered a rear "brush guard" (which is really just a bumper)... and the ramp won't close with that thing installed. So, if you have a ramp gate and no bumper, then 12' is fine. If you have a bumper and no ramp gate... still fine. If you want both, you are going to need a 14' or a custom job that is a few inches more than 12'.

I have a 77" x 12' tandem trailer with ramp gate that fits my 2011 Crew 800 perfectly. Tires against the front rail, with the ramp closed. Just enough room on each side to step out. The only problem is that I ordered a rear "brush guard" (which is really just a bumper)... and the ramp won't close with that thing installed. So, if you have a ramp gate and no bumper, then 12' is fine. If you have a bumper and no ramp gate... still fine. If you want both, you are going to need a 14' or a custom job that is a few inches more than 12'.

Just a thought... a friend of mine built a custom trailer for his ATV, based on dimensions from someone else. The trailer turned out to be too short, and he couldn't close the ramp gate. He solved the problem by extending the points where the ramp gate latches to the sides of the trailer, so that when the gate is up, it's angled and leaves enough room for the machine. You might be able to do the same.

Just a thought... a friend of mine built a custom trailer for his ATV, based on dimensions from someone else. The trailer turned out to be too short, and he couldn't close the ramp gate. He solved the problem by extending the points where the ramp gate latches to the sides of the trailer, so that when the gate is up, it's angled and leaves enough room for the machine. You might be able to do the same.

Now that's not a bad idea... any clue what it cost him? seems like someone with a welder (sadly, I do not have one) and some steel could make it work in an hour or so...

Now that's not a bad idea... any clue what it cost him? seems like someone with a welder (sadly, I do not have one) and some steel could make it work in an hour or so...

I didn't cost him anything. He worked in a sheet metal shop where he could make the steel extensions, use the welder, etc. But it shouldn't cost too much, depending on how your trailer is designed. Might be easier to put the extensions on the ramp vs. on the trailer... hard to say without seeing it.

I'm in the Dallas, TX area. The way the ramp latches is via two bent rods, one at either side. They push through loops on the frame and rotate, securing the gate. I hope that is enough info to make sense... as far as I can tell, the loops would either need to be replaced or another, larger loop added to them. I'm sure a talented welder could figure it out pretty easily. I'm going to call the place I bought it from and see if he can do it for a reasonable price. Thanks for the idea!