Plant tomatoes in August to beat first frost

August 11, 2013|Tom MacCubbin, IN THE GARDEN

Q. You have recommended planting tomatoes in August. Why is this the best time?

A. About 90 days are needed to produce a colorful, ripe and juicy tomato from a young transplant. If your plants are set in the ground around the middle of August, you could be harvesting the first fruits in November.

During fall the days grow shorter and cooler, which can sometimes slow the production of tomatoes and similar crops like eggplant and peppers down even more. Gardeners would like to harvest these crops before the first average frost, which occurs around the middle of December. If you cannot plant a young transplant in mid-August, then select a larger and more mature one for early September.

Q. I would like to know why I should start my tomato seeds in pots and in full sun. Why can't I just start them in the garden?

A. Feel free to start your tomatoes from seed in the garden, but there are risks. Florida soils seem to swallow seeds that are never seen again. What really happens is they may sink further into the sands, are eaten by insects or affected by diseases. This is less likely to happen when seeds are planted in a relatively pest-free potting mixture or germination mix.

By growing the seeds in cell packs or small pots, you have better control of the water, fertilizer and light levels. A full-sun location is needed to have sturdy and garden-ready plants. The seedlings, which need about four weeks at this time of the year to produce transplants, can then be ready for the garden when you are. You can also place each plant where it is needed in the garden rather than waiting for seeds to hopefully germinate and grow in the space.

Q. I planted cucumbers the past couple of years and had good results. This year the plants started yellowing early and only produced a few nubby cukes. Why?

A. Most likely the answer lies with the roots. It is a good idea to always take a look at the roots of garden crops that lack vigor. Cucumbers and their relatives of squash and melons are very susceptible to root-knot nematodes. These pests cause the roots to become swollen and the plants cannot be productive and yellow as you describe. If nematodes are present, now is the time to bake these tiny roundworms out of the ground using soil solarization techniques. Too much water and fertilization problems can also cause the symptoms you describe.

Q. Our azaleas have thin worms with long black and green stripes and a red head that are killing the bushes. How can I get rid of them?

A. Healthy bushes can withstand some defoliation from the appropriately named azalea caterpillars but the plants can certainly look bad. These critters normally cluster in groups along the stems when young and can be easily removed by hand pruning. But when too numerous or spreading out to feed an insecticide may be needed. Two very effective and natural products are available. You can select either Thuricide or a spinosad-containing insecticide from your garden center to apply as instructed on the label. The latter product is marketed under several brand names and usually found at independent garden centers. Both need a few days to give good control.

Q. I have planted amaryllis gift plants in the ground where they have grown and flowered well. Do I prune back the green leaves or let them grow?

A. Amaryllis can be considered care-free plants in most landscapes. Gift varieties seem to grow very well when continued in a large container or planted in the ground. They seem to grow best in a lightly shaded location but can tolerate the full sun. It is probably best to allow the green leaves to continue growth as they produce foods needed by the plants. If the leaves grow out of bounds, they can be cut back or removed as needed.

Keep the amaryllis plants moist March through October and apply light feedings every other month or use a slow-release fertilizer as instructed on the container. When fall arrives, allow the plants to be a bit drier and discontinue feedings. Allowing the plants to rest seems to encourage better flowering. Also, if the plants are damaged by cold remove the yellow leaves as needed.

Q. I noticed the bark is peeling on my crape myrtles. Is there anything I should do?

A. While some trees and shrubs slowly shed their bark, the crape myrtles prefer to make a dramatic statement. It's a bit scary if this is your first time with these shrubs, but seasoned gardeners find it a normal and often attractive yearly occurrence.

Such a sudden shedding of bark, or exfoliating bark as it's known in the trade, may have some real benefits. First, it could help eliminate clinging pests like scale insects. The peeling also helps remove lichens and moss that many gardeners feel mars the beauty of the trunks.

Some varieties of crape myrtles have very attractive underlying bark, from light tan to cinnamon in color. Other trees and shrubs that dramatically shed their bark include the Chinese elms, sycamores, wax myrtles and Simpson stopper.