Discussion Topic

Curious if anyone has factual information regarding how long the shelf life would be or if there is one, for a spool of static rope that has been stored properly in a cool, dry, non U.V. area? I believe Sterling is the manufacture.

Manufacturers like to cover their buts but it's UV, use, and chemicals that wear down ropes. None of those things and you only have to worry that rope technology has improved over the years. (but it's a static line, so you should be well, well, well, within tolerances for any use you have in mind)

Here is some test data from an investigation I conducted last summer. Ropes were provided by a customer who was asking similar questions as you all are.

All ropes were used slightly. I conducted a pull test on a loop of rope with an overhand followthrough knot (used this knot to minimize knot tightening and test machine travel). I did not conduct drop tests because we do not have this capability at this time.

Conclusions. Don't know how strong these ropes were when new. Single strand strength of these ropes is conservatively half the loop strength (big assumption on my part). I would say this is pretty good overall. I do not know what the dynamic properties of these ropes were nor do I know how time affects the dynamic properties. My recommendation to the customer was to not take any chances with the ropes in lead climbing. I would use them for top roping without any reservations.

Data from a test I conducted on 12/22/98 (research into Dan Osman's failed rope--to be published later so don't ask questions about this right now please). Loop, knot was a quad followthrough figure 8 (I have a new machine now and can test with longer travel).

Last week, Lucho and I hauled to the Alcove on the Salathe on a four year old static line that'd hung outside on the wall. We got a core shot on the Hollow Flake, another on the pitch after, and a third on the pitch after that. Scary stuff. Thought the whole shebang was gonna cut loose and smash down to the base. I grabbed my cellphone from the bags and my dope.

The webbing on your cams, your harness, your runners and your rope are all made out of nylon. Would you trust a runner in that condition? Would you trust a rope in that condition?

Climbers frequently worry about a rope which has held a few falls and gotten a little frayed, and feel the need to replace it. But for some reason, they will climb on an old, frayed, tattered harness. They figure, "It hasn't broken yet, so I can still trust it." That hasn't always worked out so well.

(The following does not necessarily apply to the OP)
When one really thinks that such an important piece of equipment is no longer trustworthy, why do they so frequently go looking for someone to tell them that it is OK and to ignore their instincts? Are they seeking to put the responsibility for their bad decision on someone else? Crazy.

Dynamic load and pull tests are two very different tests, and normally have very different results.

Bernt Prause and Claus Benk at Edelrid
tested an Edelrid classic 11mm with a five fall rating after 15 years of storage in a cool dry dark place.

The first UIAA fall test broke the rope, 80kg on roughly 10' of cord with a fall factor of 2.
Bernt, the chemist cited ozone's effect on nylon fiber.
This is not hearsay, he told me this at the Edelrid factory and test facility in Isny, Germany.

I don't recall the numbers for the static test of "rope strength, but I think it was in the neighborhood of 2000kg.
WHAT?

ok then think on this,
I was appalled to see the rope I was jugging on might be the old Goldline Roger and I had climbed on 15 years before, it was so worn and thrashed that the twisted rope was nearly smooth.
Since I was in lost soldier cave, I jugged gingerly.
After getting out of there I tested the cord myself. That old thrasher cord, still tested at over 4,000 pounds!! impossible! it looked like crap!
I know if I had done a drop test, it would have failed.
I never climbed or caved with Roger again.

Nylon fibers retain strength as tested under static load, and over time the numers don't change much.
Over time Nylon fibers lose the capacity to elongate and sustain dynamic loads.

I used to help develop rope, Imported and sold a ton, had a store, plenty of old cord, some friends want to go slab padding at Big Rock six months ago, I went to rei and bought a new cord.

OK you say it is static, but just when you didn't plan it, you fly ten feet, too late tie into the good one, haul your pig with it, or tie up boats.

i have a couple of spools of bluewater static i keep stored at the hancock and get out once a year for the inspection. been there i think 6 years? arrrg... this thread makes me want to replace them now...