A few videos ago, we asked the question which frame should we use to build our 3-Inch Micro FPV Quadcopter, the FlexRC Ascent 3 HD or the HGLRC Arrow 3 Hybrid. At that time "The People's Choice" was the FlexRC Ascent 3 HD and it has turned out to be my favorite flyer-Thank You!

Now, we build out the other 3 inch drone frame, the HGLRC Arrow 3 Hybrid. Why is it a “hybrid?” The front arms are a stretched-X type (narrower) and the rear arms are a “normal-X” type (standard). Theoretically, this "hybrid configuration" should create more stability on the pitch axis and enable smoother and tighter cornering around turns (like on rails!). FPV FlightClub has used this hybrid configuration in their latest racing frames the 5" Proton-R and Neutron-R. One of the (if not, THE) best FPV Race Pilots in the world, Captainvanover, is running this hybrid setup starting this race season!

We complete our Hybrid 3 Inch Drone Build with our own custom components (not the ones which come with the BNF version of this HGLRC Arrow 3 Quad). In the video, we show a complete list of the components we use along with each of their weights, the overall dry weight of the build and the All-Up Weight along with the Thrust-to-Weight Ratio of this build in comparison with that of the FlexRC Ascent 3 HD. Guess which one wins that contest! What do you think of this Hybrid configuration? Also, the 2nd of 3 “Keywords” is revealed to unlock the Mystery of our upcoming announcement. Take a Guess for your chance to Win!

I think the Caddx Ratel coupled with a Turtle (if you already have one) may beat buying a new Tarsier. No HD footage for a change but the image captured from the goggles is good enough in low light.

This was my first day flying with the Ratel Starlight camera and I got stuck in a tree with my first lipo. After 5 hours I managed to get it back with some rope and a stick but I just about found the energy to fly a couple of lipos after sunset and before total darkness. Great to have a dedicated FPV Camera especially as I've been flying a lot with the Caddx Turtle lately. it makes such a difference to be able to see in low light and have no latency issues!

Personally , I feel the stock footage is great for visibility in the shadows and makes the early evening feel like daytime; great for Golden Hour flights. Amazingly the footage from my old TopSky Prime 1S Goggles is really good and better than the image produced by my trusty VRD2-Pro Goggles (Topsky sent me a new board to rectify the receiver issue).

Remote Control Toy Tractor (1:16) with a wide range of accessories: dumper, sprinkler and windrower!!! Remote Control Toy Tractor For Kids and RC Hobbyists!!!

Item No.: E351-003
Model Name: 1:16 Remote Control Toy Tractor
2.4GHz
Simulated lights/sounds (mute button)
RC distance: 25meters
Speed: 2.16km/h
Tractor rechargeable battery and charger included
Radio control：dumper, windrower, and sprinkler
Double Eagle (China) Ltd. is a professional toy manufacturer, with over 30 years of history, specialising on the manufacture of RC and functional toys. We have a wide range of remote control toys for kids and for rc hobbyists too.

Currently trying to understand the RC Electronics T3000 drop out issues: I am interested in other flyers experiments with the Ariels both air borne and the one on the T3000 base station: what changes have you done why? and what improvements have you found? It appears to be a good system let down but Ariel related issues? or am I wrong?
regards
Chishp

Images

I came across these earlier this year at the AMA Expo East. They are made by the following company, E-aeromotive.com, run by Dennis Andreas. I grabbed a couple to bring back home to fool around with. A few weeks later I took them an indoor free flight event I was co-CD'ing and they were a big hit. I gave some to kids who came through, and a few to other modelers. They really do glide very nicely indoors, an easy 30-40 feet nice and level.

They come in foam sheets very similar to depron, but a little more flexible. The sheet is a about 11 by 14 and has 5 pieces laser cut into it. The pieces pop out and go together very easily. I've used Foam Tac and tape to put them together. I'm going to experiment with making them a bit lighter, not that it really needs it. Also, I think I'll make a notch to let these be launched with a rubber band/catapult.

I ended up buying 100 of these they were so much fun. We'll save some for give aways at events, perhaps for some classroom/Cub Scout demonstrations as well. They would be a great little fundraiser too at events for clubs, they are less than $2.00 and could easily be sold for $3-5 bucks. Id' rather have this than the small balsa planes that break almost immediately.

We had some fun painting a few up with some old paint and stickers we had laying around. We'll use these as our display models at events.

Once built, the plane is about 13.5 inches long, and has a 10 inch wingspan.

Dennis can be reached here. I have an order in for some more of these which I believe he makes to order. Shipping is pretty reasonable too depending on how many you buy.

Hello all,
first I am so happy I found you guys because I am sure I will need your experience.
I am very new at this, just starting.
I got a super cub S and I tried it once and guess what I crashed, so I fixed it and spoke to some of my friends who's suggesting me to get a simulator and learn on it.
can anyone please advise me if it would be good to get a SIM and witch one for a beginner like me. Any suggestions?

Protocol = the old Flysky protocol used by the 9x and other transmitters .
Only fly in the ointment is the need to rebind the Tx to the flight board every time you want to use it .
This is probably because of the Factory Tx , which sends out a bind signal on start up .

Still , a very interesting board for RC projects that might need 4 channels . Especially Micro Models maybe around 500mm span .
The old V911 boards are just about gone , or simply premium priced . A F949 board just might be what the project ordered .

there are 2 choices:
1-if it doesnt break, dont touch it.
2- better try to make it so does not break!
which 1 you choose?
the truth is, both have valued points.
and we do 1 or the other all the time
lets consider 1 situation:
you have been flying certain plane without making any change or 'improvement' and it has been doing just fine...
or another: something has happened to you and you want to take measures to prevent it to happen again (or some say that this or that failed to them so you better do something to prevent it to happen to you).
so, what will you do?
i have some planes that have been flying without fault and keep them as they are.
on the other hand, i have had some failures with a plane and try to prevent that to happen again by doing whatever i can.
isnt this confusing? why 1 with 1, and another with another?
what do you do?
are we a puzzle or what?
or is this a matter of probabilities and risk factor?