After thundering over the 1708m-wide Victoria Falls, the Zambezi River froths and boils its way through a zig-zagging canyon of basalt rock, creating 25 rapids with names such as The Gnashing Jaws of Death.

I'm here in March, when the high water flow means we can only tackle rapids 11-25. Visit between July and January and you can often run all 25.

We're in safe hands. Tembo has rafted the Zambezi more than 3000 times but even he can't predict what the river will do.

Fifteen minutes later, we're all in the water, this time at the Class 5 Oblivion, where a mountainous wave appears out of nowhere and flips the boat like a tiddlywink.

After three adrenaline-fuelled hours of paddling, we stumble wearily out of the rafts and into a cable car that whisks us out of the canyon.

When you've just spent the morning battling The Gnashing Jaws of Death, there are few more welcoming sights than The Royal Livingstone Hotel.

Located on the Zambian side of the Zambezi River, just a few hundred metres from the falls, it's a colonial-era haven of antique furnishings, lazy ceiling fans and impeccable service.

Were it not for the wide range of activities available, I could easily have whiled away my stay in a haze of riverside massages, afternoon teas and sunset cocktails.

The hotel's proximity to the falls is one of its biggest drawcards and the following morning I walk there with a local guide.

While Victoria Falls is not the highest or widest waterfall in the world, it is the largest sheet of falling water anywhere on the planet. On average, 1000 tonnes of water a second comes crashing down into the 108m-deep canyon, creating a swirling mist of vapour that rises 500m and can be seen 50km away.

We battle through the mist, passing a series of lookouts before getting buffeted by spray-soaked winds on the disconcertingly narrow Knife Edge Bridge that vaults the river.

While being this close to the falls is impressive, you're almost too close to fully appreciate its scale and grandeur. Fortunately, there are many other ways to marvel at this natural wonder.

The next day, I'm speeding down a makeshift grass runway in what looks worryingly like a cross between a hang-glider and a hairdryer, with a strapping young German called Heiko.This is my first time in a microlight and I'm astonished at how quickly we're airborne. Thirty seconds later we're over the Zambezi River; five minutes after that we're swooping majestically over the falls.

Unlike in a helicopter, where you're cocooned from your surroundings, there is nothing between me and one of Africa's most spectacular sights.

Not only can I see and hear the falls, I can smell, taste and feel them.

From this vantage point, I can clearly see how the falls have moved upstream over thousands of years.

On the way back, Heiko lets me steer, a delicate process of moving the wing to the left and right. Despite only lasting 15 minutes, the flight is the highlight of my trip.

For my final encounter with the Smoke That Thunders, I'm collected by speedboat from the dock in front of The Royal Livingstone and whisked across the Zambezi.

In a small way, I'm re-creating the journey taken by the first European ever to see the falls, Scottish explorer Dr David Livingstone, when he was brought here by dugout canoe in 1855. Legend has it the natives told him it was smoke he could see in the distance, so as not to spoil the surprise.

Stepping on to the island that bears his name, I try to imagine how he must have felt when he first saw it.

Eustace, my guide, takes my hand and beckons me towards the edge. There are no railings, no safety nets, just a furious torrent of water plunging into an impenetrable cloud of mist. I pose nervously for a photo before retreating. I had no idea it was possible to get this close to the edge.

It turns out that Eustace has even more adventurous plans for me. We walk to the other side of the island where, to my horror, he starts wading into the river, just metres from where it cascades over the falls. It turns out we're headed for Champagne Pool, a natural jacuzzi sheltered by rocks.

Thankfully, the river is too high to make it to the more famous Devil's Pool, which is even nearer the edge.

I sink back into the swirling warm water, feeling quietly relieved. The falls are spellbindingly beautiful but this is quite close enough for me.

The writer was a guest of The Royal Livingstone Hotel.

Go2 - ZAMBIA

Getting there: Qantas (qantas.com.au), South African Airways (flysaa.com) and Emirates (emirates.com) all fly to Johannesburg from Australia. SAA also flies from Johannesburg to Livingstone.

Staying there: The 5-star Royal Livingstone Hotel is located on the Zambian side of the Zambezi River, walking distance from Victoria Falls.

Touring there: Safari Par Excellence runs a range of rafting trips on the Zambezi River. Rates start at $US135 a person. See safpar.net

Livingstone Adventures offers a 15-minute microlight flight over the falls for $US140 a person. See livingstonesadventure.com Tongabezi Tours runs five trips a day to Livingstone Island from $US70 a person. See tongabezi.com

There are also more sedate activities available such as a sunset Zambezi cruise on the African Queen riverboat and a six-course dinner onboard the Royal Livingstone Express, a beautifully restored 1920s locomotive. See livingstonesadventure.com and royal-livingstone-express.com

A NOTE ABOUT RELEVANT ADVERTISING: We collect information about the content (including ads) you use across this site and use it to make both advertising and content more relevant to you on our network and other sites.