il padrone wrote:I think more of a concern could be the chainglider rubbing on the alloy shell of your Rohloff. This has been discussed on the Thorn Rohloff forum and is an acknowledged limitation. Rohloff advice is not to use the Hebie chainglider I believe.

Hebie have now manufactured a rear end of their chainstay that doesn't rub and I can see it moves around very freely after just putting it on.

Hebie wrote:The classsic rear section fits after gear alteration for Alfine (350 RD 18). For i-MOTION the rear section 350 Ri 18 was developed and the model 350 RS 15 is now available in perfect adaption for Rohloff.

footloose wrote:And what about you, RonK? How is that Pioneer thing going? Hasn't started to rust in the shed after that damp spell you had up your way, has it?

Titanium? Rust? No way! I'm still acquiring components - so far I have the frame, fork, headset, lighting, SS Velo Orange fenders, Reecharge charging system, v-brakes and the Rohloff Speedhub and Son Dynamo hub are built into the wheels and ready to go. The titanium seatpost, stem and handlebars I will probably order in a couple of weeks, and also the brake levers, grips, cables, rim tape, tyres and tubes, chain, pedals, and racks. Also I didn't much like the first chainset I ordered so another one is on the way.

It will probably be another couple of months before it's on the road, but it will be worth the wait - in the mean time I'll just have to make do with riding my Sabbath Silk Route.

Not only is it neat technology, it's the most durable mtn. bike drivetrain that exists today. Hard XC riding?:) Yeah, you could say that...

As a heavy rider (210-215 lbs is my average body weight, plus gear) with long legs & cranks (180mm), I was having drivetrain reliability issues on my heavy trail bike. Riding year round in New England is probably as heavy duty use as a bike drivetrain can get-mud, snow, ice, water, road salt don't make it easy on anything that's exposed and under an enormous load. Warped cassettes and a fistfull of worn chains used to clutter my bike workspace..Well, since I got off the Shimano wagon & switched to a Speedhub 2 seasons ago the drivetrain maintenance on my heavy duty trailbike/freeride bike (an Uzzi SLX) has been reduced to virtually nill In 2 seasons I've had to replace a cable set and a chain tensioner spring. On my XC race bike during the same interval (Shimano/SRAM 3x9 drivetrain) I've had to replace several chains, cassettes, chainrings, shifter cables, and a rear derailleur.

Speedhubs are sealed against the elements and run in an internally-lubricated oil bath. Heavier? Sure, but last year's maiden voyage in Moab proved it to be a sound investment. On our first mid-March ride on vacation, we embarked on what would turn out to be a 35 mile epic ride, through several hours of heavy, wet snow, suck-your-boots-off mud, and finally with several screaming downhill fireroads and high speed stream crossings. During the ride my bike shifted perfectly the whole time. Several friends with conventional drivetrains had to stop, scrape the mud from their chainrings & cassettes, and after the ride more than one had to do a drivetrain overhaul to get original shifting behavior again. I just hosed off the Speedhub & chain & hit the hot tub:)

Conventional drivetrains are fine for many riders-lightweight, very careful shifting, favorable weather/riding conditions, regular cleaning, and luck can contribute to great performance and long drivetrain life. I'd rather ride more & be lucky less:) There's a Speedhub#2 in my garage that's going on my XC bike this spring...

Well it's 10pm here and my bike is also ready now. So I took it out for a little trip. Road up the hill for 100m and down for 400m and back 200m back to house. OMGosh 1 on the rohloff is soo easy and I love the light from the new Supernova E3 triple now. It was lighting up the road very nicely with 1 led! When I get commuting on it, I have a dark area with no lights I'll show difference from the Supernova E3 triples and older Ayup's lights on different nights with speeds as well. Can't wait to take it on a proper ride!

Bought mine with the multi-mount thinking it would bolt onto the tube at the top of the forks. My plan was to lock it on using a Pitlock. Sadly the diameter of the hole in the Nomad was too small and doesn't go through both sides of the tube. Briefly considered drilling through, but ended up getting the handlebar mount. It's convenient because I can easily dip the lights, but too easily snaffled with just a rubber band holding it in place. The only solution seems to be getting the gold connectors and removing the light every time I leave the bike for 30 seconds or more.

Bought mine with the multi-mount thinking it would bolt onto the tube at the top of the forks. My plan was to lock it on using a Pitlock. Sadly the diameter of the hole in the Nomad was too small and doesn't go through both sides of the tube. Briefly considered drilling through

Never a good idea to go hitting up a new frame with a drill.

I found similar problems. The hole in the fork crown is actually a threaded 5mm bolt-hole, so any common hex-key bolt will do. Can't quite see the bolt in this picture.

My added problem was a glitch with my Nomad - just one flaw, the hole in the crown had not been drilled/brazed correctly in-line. So my light when fitted shone off at 5-10 degrees to the left, just enough to be fairly disconcerting when riding. I have ended up heaving on the multi-mount enough to line it up, without breaking it

Bought mine with the multi-mount thinking it would bolt onto the tube at the top of the forks. My plan was to lock it on using a Pitlock. Sadly the diameter of the hole in the Nomad was too small and doesn't go through both sides of the tube. Briefly considered drilling through, but ended up getting the handlebar mount. It's convenient because I can easily dip the lights, but too easily snaffled with just a rubber band holding it in place. The only solution seems to be getting the gold connectors and removing the light every time I leave the bike for 30 seconds or more.

Would you believe 4 small things that are absolutely critical on a bike called brake pads! In disgust I ended up getting the Kool Stops from Wiggle that are suited for CSS rims. Unfavourable reviews, but I'll see how they really go myself. I also have some SwissStop Blues coming from Bike24, I just hope they don't screw up like starbike did...

I have my Supernova E3 where il Padrone has it. I too was looking for the hole through the forks... I wonder why Thorn have done it like this, means I'm going to have to modify the standard installation of the SKS chromoplastics to have them bolted on underneath. I have the gold connectors installed for my rear light already and considering installing them in on the front.

Postby Baalzamon I also have some SwissStop Blues coming from Bike24, I just hope they don't screw up like starbike did...

The only problem I've had with Bike24 is slow delivery. I ordered the E3 from them before ordering the Nomad and it arrived two weeks after the Nomad. Could be because they use Australia Post to deliver at this end.

Baalzamon wrote:In disgust I ended up getting the Kool Stops from Wiggle that are suited for CSS rims. Unfavourable reviews, but I'll see how they really go myself. I also have some SwissStop Blues coming from Bike24, I just hope they don't screw up like starbike did...

I've been using the Swisstop Blue pads, but got a bit concerned about braking grip losses on some of our recent wet day commutes. They seemed to feel disturbingly like the old steel rims , so I'm hoping the Koolstops for CSS that I've recently received will be better in the wet. In 2 weeks I am running a ride up Mt Donna Buang with good chances of snow and/or wet conditions and I want brake grip on the 16km steepish descent.

There was also another more recent post where someone cleaned up the surface of their Swiss Blues with some agent or other and experienced greatly improved performance in the wet. Might be worth trying meths as they are obviously the bees knees when it comes to longevity.

Baalzamon wrote:In disgust I ended up getting the Kool Stops from Wiggle that are suited for CSS rims. Unfavourable reviews, but I'll see how they really go myself. I also have some SwissStop Blues coming from Bike24, I just hope they don't screw up like starbike did...

I've been using the Swisstop Blue pads, but got a bit concerned about braking grip losses on some of our recent wet day commutes. They seemed to feel disturbingly like the old steel rims , so I'm hoping the Koolstops for CSS that I've recently received will be better in the wet. In 2 weeks I am running a ride up Mt Donna Buang with good chances of snow and/or wet conditions and I want brake grip on the 16km steepish descent.

Now having ridden in the wet on my Koolstops in the yucky colour I can comment. There is a definite loss of braking power I have noticed compared to dry. They take longer to grip as well. Just checked brake wear and I believe I can see some. On wiggle the reviews say they didn't last 50 miles, well these have done 115kms so far in dry & wet conditions and there is definite loss of brake pad material

Baalzamon wrote:In disgust I ended up getting the Kool Stops from Wiggle that are suited for CSS rims. Unfavourable reviews, but I'll see how they really go myself. I also have some SwissStop Blues coming from Bike24, I just hope they don't screw up like starbike did...

I've been using the Swisstop Blue pads, but got a bit concerned about braking grip losses on some of our recent wet day commutes. They seemed to feel disturbingly like the old steel rims , so I'm hoping the Koolstops for CSS that I've recently received will be better in the wet. In 2 weeks I am running a ride up Mt Donna Buang with good chances of snow and/or wet conditions and I want brake grip on the 16km steepish descent.

Sorry for the thread revival but can I ask whether anyone has resolved this wet weather issue with the CSS rims? I'm considering going this way but wet weather braking performance is a definite requirement...

I have looked at the Troll, but there were a number things that put me off. The frame is cluttered with a multitude of mounts that I'll never need. The rear dropouts are not ideal for a Speedhub, and once again it is heavy. I'd pick the Nomad first.

RonK wrote:I have looked at the Troll, but there were a number things that put me off. The frame is cluttered with a multitude of mounts that I'll never need. The rear dropouts are not ideal for a Speedhub, and once again it is heavy. I'd pick the Nomad first.

The problem with the rear drop-outs is that as your chain wears and you need to adjust the chain tension via the QR axle position, your wheelbase varies and you'll need to reposition your disc brake calipers. Simpler with the Thorn and the EBB for chain tension.

RonK wrote:I have looked at the Troll, but there were a number things that put me off. The frame is cluttered with a multitude of mounts that I'll never need. The rear dropouts are not ideal for a Speedhub, and once again it is heavy. I'd pick the Nomad first.

The problem with the rear drop-outs is that as your chain wears and you need to adjust the chain tension via the QR axle position, your wheelbase varies and you'll need to reposition your disc brake calipers. Simpler with the Thorn and the EBB for chain tension.

Yes, that is exactly what I was alluding too. And how fiddly must it be removing the wheel to fix a flat.

Well, we all know that since I made that comment, Wingnut has acquired a Troll of his own, so I wonder why he didn't show us a picture of the dropouts on his bike.

But in any case there was no need for him to feel defensive about it. In fact, he has obviously forgotten about it now, but I paid him this compliment:

I've never seen a picture of a completed Troll before - and looking at pics of the bare Troll frame I thought all the unused attachment points would be a little fussy and untidy. But now I can see they are hardly noticeable. For anyone looking to build a bike your example gives plenty of incentive to consider the Troll.

However, after looking at Wingnut's close-up shot I've changed my mind - they do look fussy! Now, let me share a couple of pictures showing how the dropouts will look on my soon-to-be-completed project, which uses an EBB similar to the Thorn.

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