Mad Men Style Report Card: S7E5

Vietnam War debates, computer brainwashing, threesomes, and nipple slicing somehow made their way into last night's Mad Men. Strange plot twists aside, though, the episode was the probably season's best, style-wise. Ascots, polos, plaids, tie bars, and porkpie hats were all contained within. All in all, it perfectly demonstrated the program's style evolution, from classic '60s ad-man to hippie chic to '70s accessories.

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Below, we grade the best and worst men's clothing options from Sunday's episode.

Stan Rizzo

Stan went for the flamboyant cowboy look last night with a jean snap-front shirt, gray chinos, and a cream-colored belt with a copper buckle. Unfortunately, things take dive when you turn to the accessories. Really, it's the scarf. Well, and the man jewelry. Sure, the scarf's color works, matching both Stan's belt and shirt, but it's clashing with his grizzly man beard. The two look like they're fighting for neck space. Let it breathe, Stan.

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Grade: C

Harry Crane

If you ask someone to name the best-dressed folks of Mad Men few would likely name Harry Crane. He's like the show's style underdog. Really, it's too bad his outfits aren't more appreciated, because he usually has a few interesting looks up his sleeve, like this orange jacket and white button-down he wore out to California. And hello, ascot! That's some mighty fine styling there, Harry. Stan could take a cue from you in the neckwear category.

Grade: B+

Henry Francis

Despite Henry's rampant sexism (he was upset that Betty had an opinion on the Vietnam War that he didn't agree with), he did do something right last night, and that was picking this dark blue windowpane jacket and white button-down. But the good news ends at the tie. What's throwing me off is the red pattern, which looks out of place with the rest of his outfit. Instead, Henry should have gone with something solid to help balance it out.

Grade: B-

Henry and Betty's Neighbor

While Henry and Betty were discussing the recent Vietnam War protests, their neighbor's ridiculous getup was attempting to butt itself into the conversation. Hey! Blue plaid sports coat and striped tie over here! Let's talk about me!! Look, the coat isn't terrible on its own, and neither is the tie. But when you pair them together you get a terrible—and terribly loud—ensemble.

Grade: C-

Don Draper

Don looked goodthis episode, wearing several of those sharp suit-and-tie combos he's best known for (also, as opposed to last week's apisode, they all fit him this time). However, the outfit we'll focus on here is this plaid sports coat and blue polo shirt he wore out to Megan's party in L.A. Sure, Don's sour attitude may have stuck out like a sore thumb during the shindig, but he at least tried to dress for the occasion, pulling something from his likely growing California collection. Unfortunately, this was a party filled with actors and artists, not studio executives and agents. Perhaps he should have asked Stan to borrow a scarf and jean jacket?

Grade: B+

Lou Avery and Jim Cutler

It appears hanging out with Jim is beginning to rub off on old Lou. Though he began the episode with his signature gramps look—baby blue sweater, tie, reading glasses—he eventually transitioned into something a bit bolder, with a green sports coat and cream colored button-up. Unfortunately, he looks a bit awkward in it ... and not just because it's in need of a good pressing. Lou's personality just isn't suited for something outside his comfort zone.

Grade: C+

Jim nabs his second Style MVP of the season with this beautiful sky-blue jacket and yellow shirt. He's even smart enough to offset it with a pair of khakis; Jim's going for a bold look, not an outrageous one. Seriously, this man knows how to dress with the best of them.