Oso

Sonoma is a sleepy town, but Oso is waking it up. With its black walls, charcoal-gray wainscoting, and scrap metal and lumber interior, Oso has a cutting-edge vigor that reflects the small-plate menu by David Bush, who for six years was the chef at St. Francis Winery. His talent for pairing wine and food is on full display on the eclectic, well-priced menu, whether it’s a rich lamb taco in a silken mole sauce; brightly flavored pickled shrimp with horseradish and tomato aioli; or harissa-coated salmon served with couscous and shishito peppers. Oso is a near-perfect Wine Country restaurant, one that pushes the envelope just enough to be exciting. With its well-chosen wine list and great food, its a prime place to relax after a day of wine tasting.

Michael Bauer has been following the food and wine scene at the San Francisco Chronicle for more than 28 years. Before working at The Chronicle, he was a reporter and editor at the Kansas City Star and the Dallas Times Herald.