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I have a 2002 Explorer. The A/C and Heat control works fine. Cold air when I want cold and hot air when I want hot. But the air will only blow through the cabin vents. If I turn the controls to floor or defrost, the air stills flows through the cabin vents. The controls do not change the direction of the air flow. I recently replaced the motor blower resistor and the blower speed control now works as it should. Can anyone give me some insight on what the problem may be. Thanks

Hi stimm I have a 2004 Ford Explorer but yours could be the same. Open your glove box ans gently push the back sides in to each other and then your glove box will drop down some more.Then look with a flash light right in the left top corner behind the glove box. You will see a vacumm rod that is suppose to slide into your vent changer, that could be broken. What I did was pull gently on the rod and try my vent dial , when i could get my rod to give me all vent air. I then pulled off the vent dial in that posistion and put a piece of plastic that I made round to fit so that I would not turn that dial for defrost, floor or center vent. I am getting air condition this way and also all vents are on. I know this is a major problem with Ford Explorers but i read that Ford is not fixing it. willjk

Symptoms: AC and heat controls work fine. Fan speeds work fine. But air flows only through front vents. When I attempt to change air flow to floor or defrost, the air continues to flow through the front vents.

Observations: There is a flow control valve located to the upper left of the glove compartment box. When I turn the flow control switch on the front panel from floor to vent to defrost, the valve rod moves in and out as it should. The valve rod though is to be connected to a plastic lever arm that pivots a flow control door or flapper. This plastic lever arm has broken and is not connected to the valve rod. Can anyone tell me how I could replace this plastic door and reconnect it to the valve rod.? Thanks

Hi Stimm You would have to remove the console and part of the dash to get to the plastic control. Look up Youtube on how to remove dash on your year. I left mine alone because of the cost, I was able to pull on the control valve and keep trying your flow control switch. I was able to get air from all vents at once. So I pulled off the flow control switch and cut a piece of black plastic and placed sticky tape inside and placed round piece of the black plastic disc that I made to cover that opening so that I would not use the vent control and my vents are fine, as long as I don't touch that flow control switch again. I also get air condition through all the vents also. Willjk

I have a 2008 Eddie Bauer with 3 rows of seats, 4.0 liter engine with 43,000 miles and my A/C is blowing hot air. I brought it to a dealer who told me the that the "lines to the rea rA/C unit need to be replaced" The cost is out through the roof. 1) Is this a common problem with the ED "rear A/C unit and 2) can I simply seal off/plug off the rear A/C unit as no one ever sits in the 3rd row of seats.

That's ridiculous! There surely is a leak, but very very doubtful it's the lines to the rear evaporator unit. Go somewhere else and get another diagnosis. I think you're getting taken for a ride. Those lines should last 20 years.

First, check your coolant level. Sounds like you are low, and not getting any water to the hot water lines. If it's not that, there may be a valve under the hood that is stuck closed preventing the hot water to get to the inside coil. Not sure about that. And could be a blend door stuck under the dash, that's the worst scenerio, because it's the most costly. Also, could be in the electronic controls, broken and not demanding heat. If it's full of water, you're going to need someone to look at it.

Please help, I have a 2000 Limited and just had my Blower Motor stop working. I thought it was the Blower Motor that was bad, but once I took it out and hooked it up to a power source it began to work. This leads me to believe that the Blower Motor Resistor is bad. Is there anything else that could be wrong? I have checked the fuses, wiring, etc... I am stationed in Italy so finding a ASE certified Mechanic that knows Fords is pretty difficult. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Signed, Melting in Italy!

I have a 99 Ford Explorer&#151;the a/c quit working replaced the blower motor resistor and it worked fine for about 3 weeks, started the same as in the beginning, would come on and off, then off, that is when I replaced the resistor&#151;it didn&#146;t work so cleaned the connections to it and worked for about 10 minutes&#151;now it blows on low ac, very low air coming out and not at all on max,,what do I need to do now??

I had this same problem. The valve rod snaps on to the plastic lever arm. The clips on the plastic lever arm have sheared off. If the plastic lever arm is still entact, you can attach the valve rod to it with a screw. It worked for me.

There is a clicking noise coming from the blind door actuator we believe? The clicking starts when turning the temp control from cold to warm/hot. When it's on cold it does not click but it does when turned to warm. There is no heat in front but heat works in back seat.

I'm having a problem with my 2002 Explorer. I can't get any heat up through the defrost vents. The fan works find and II have opened the glovebox and verified that the vacuum controlled actuator is moving when the selector is changed but no change in airflow to the defroster vents. I guess it's starting to look like the mode door. Any advice?

Haven't seen this one on here yet. The rear AC fan on my Explorer doesn't blow. Hasn't worked since I bought it. Just replaced the blend door actuator on the front to get heat, and remembered the back fan doesn't work. I checked the "Auxilary blower" fuse. It is "Good". There is no power to the Fan Motor at the connectors. Anybody know if there is a relay controlling this fan. Controls all light up like everything is fine, but no fan using either front or rear controls. Help!!!!!!

hi i have the same problem with i 2003 ford explorer. were u able to fix it? n if so how did u fix it? i've been trying to fix it for a very long time but untill now i have not been able to. i will be waiting for ur responce thanks

My Dad fixed it...he had to take the dash off to get to the piece he needed to replace, I believe a $70 plastic piece. It was no easy task. I can get more detailed info on how he fixed it and what part he replaced if you're interested. I no longer own the vehicle, however it was working find when we sold it.

I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and when the car heats up it will blow hot air but after about a minute or two the air starts getting colder and then blows only cold air - i turn the controller to cold and after about a minute i turn it back to heat and it will blow heat for about a minute and then go back to blowing cold air - any ideas what could be the problem. Thanks!

Unfortunately, it's been so long ago he can't remember the part and we no longer have the receipt to check on the part number. He only recalls how much work it was removing the entire dash just to get to this tiny piece and that the piece he replaced was no bigger than a pencil eraser. Sorry we can't be of more assistance. Good luck!

It may be a faulty blend door or control for the blend door (I believe they are electric on this car, but not positive). But before you tear out the dash, check your coolant level. It's possible your coolant is low enough that it won't always go through the hoses to your inside radiator that delivers heat to the cabin..... Seen it before. And you'd better hope I'm right, cause that's very cheap. The other possibilities are not. :shades:

Go to this site. I just fixed mine a few weeks ago. This is great step by step instuctions. The problem is the blend door actuator. I bought mine off ebay for $41. The model is a DORMAN 604-202 (at least that is the one for the 2002, go to the dorman website and look yours up).

Here's what's happening with mine. If I turn the heat all of the way up and leave the fan speed on low, then I'll get continuous, mostly hot air, which doesn't do much on really cold days. If I turn the fan speed up then the air gets cooler. Also, the temperature knob is hard to turn. I've checked under the glove box and all door mechanism seems to be functioning correctly.

Last year I would have to accelerate as fast as possible to get the heater working good enough. This year that doesn't do anything and the temperature gauge never goes above the halfway mark.