New on the bench this week is a StuH 42 04.43 production. An early production version. No commanders shot delflector, no shurzen, rubber return rollers, 30mm bolt on armour. I'll be using the decals from the Tamiya StuG III Fruhe kit (finding those is what inspired me to start this one)

Done a bit over the last few days

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Love it. Heehee, I have the same problem. I've started the JagdTiger conversion (Tamiya Tiger II lower hull spliced and diced and attached to the DML upper with zimmerit), just as an aside while I work on airbrushes and Lysanders. Even worse, I'm already hankering for another big tank to work on. Watching this closely.

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Update In Stash:
Lots of 1/35 Armor mainly WWII German and a few Modern British/American pieces, 1/32 Aircraft and 1/48 Aircraft. Aircraft chosen to replicate RNZAF and RAAF types through the years. Some RAF & USAF types exist also.

Thanks Powder. I get mixed emotions seeing that video. That is a very early Ausf G. DML actually make a kit of it (Cyber Hobby White Box)

What is gutting is how complete it is when they pull it out. Even all the tools are in the box mounted on the engine deck, and now it has been plundered and so many of the details have been removed by scavengers

Just wish they had got it into an inside museum a lot earlier

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Terry wrote: I'm curious about your track sag technique Andrew. Do you wedge the tracks down with the iceblock sticks and superglue the tracks to the return rollers?

Terry, I use the popsicle sticks and toothpicks to force the sag on the tracks. At this stage the tracks and wheels are just sitting unglued. This way I can pull them off to paint, then fit them all back on.

I'll post a short SBS showing my procedure for assembling indi tracks

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Step 2. I use the ruler to keep the first link in a flat position, then start adding links. depending on the fit, I sometimes place 2 or 3 links together before adding glue. Use the glue sparingly. You don't want too much, otherwise the tracks will melt on the underside (but you need to use enough that the links stay together)

Step 3. Once you have completed the run, leave the glue to set for approximately 10 minutes.

Step 4. After the 10 minutes has passed, loop the track together and glue. Leave this to set for around 5 minutes

Step 5. Fit the track run carefully to the tank. I normally place the drive sprocket where I closed the loop. Add in the idler, road wheels and return rollers

Step 6. Using popsicle sticks (and or toothpicks) place between track fenders and tracks. Leave this overnight, or for several hours

Step 7. Remove sticks and you are done

Once the glue has full set, you can pull the tracks and wheels off to paint, then slip them back on. Remember to mask the pins that the wheels for on. Too much paint on them will not let the wheels fir on cleanly.

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Was a bit of a mission to get the barrel to fit. The mantlet is only shaped to accept the 7.5cm barrel, not the 10.5cm. I had to hollow it a little more to show the gap for allowing the barrel to recoil

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