I would appreciate it if someone more experienced could comment on the following situation: there is a knocking sound, coming from the strut assembly when the car is lifted up and someone fiercely sways the strut assembly, applying the impact to the spring. The mechanic who checked the struts said that it is necessary to replace strut mounts but he personally does not have experience with Mazda. In 2 day he called and said that he had found strut mounts (72$ each) and ready to install them (180$ + alignment). When I asked him about the strut bearing (as I personally think that they cause the problem), he said that it might be a part of the strut mount or may be not.
Here is my question: is the bearing comes with the strut mount (in fact, I yesterday spent several hours looking through different on-line catalogs from ACdelco, Monroe (part #904958, KYB (SM5127))) they confused me even more than I was before, none of their parts look like a strut mount I saw on my VW, it seems they name “strut mount” the bearing plate, which actually may or may not come with the bearing. Therefore, I would appreciate if someone could define for me what is the strut mount in case of MAZDA MVP 2000. Does it look like the strut mount, shown on the picture? Looking into repair manual I would think so, but I am not sure.
Let me show what I have found...Best,
Dmitry
MAZDA 2000 LX, 142000 miles , looks cool, runs great.
AUTOPAGE RS-900LCD
self-installed DRL (USA->CANADA)

Another variant of bearing plate, it seems to be very close to the original Mazda MPV bearing plate.generic_oes_3232.jpg - File downloaded or viewed 3924 time(s)

this strut bearing is very different from the strut bearing coming with Monroe kit, shown on another picture. Well, those bearings seem to have different shape.bearing.jpg - File downloaded or viewed 3944 time(s)

this is the strut mount, which is very similar to the one I had on VW. Does MVP have something similar?strut_mount.jpg - File downloaded or viewed 4015 time(s)

The diagram from the MAZDA 2000 repair manual. What do you call strut mount here? Item N10? Item N8 (this seem to be the bearing plate).MVP_2000_manual.jpg - File downloaded or viewed 4368 time(s)

Ok, it seems I am going to ask questions and answer them myself, may be it will be useful for someone else. The closer examination made clear the following things:Best,
Dmitry
MAZDA 2000 LX, 142000 miles , looks cool, runs great.
AUTOPAGE RS-900LCD
self-installed DRL (USA->CANADA)

I have finally bought Monroe "Strut.Mate Mounting kit, part #904958 (Made in Taiwan), Tenneco Automotive. The content of the package is shown below. I hope that the nasty knocking sound will go away. But we will see, I am going to install the newt strut mounts and the bearings this weekend.

PS: Administrator, I would appreciate it if the topic could be moved to the "Suspension" section, my mistake! Thanks!Best,
Dmitry
MAZDA 2000 LX, 142000 miles , looks cool, runs great.
AUTOPAGE RS-900LCD
self-installed DRL (USA->CANADA)

one side of the strut mountIMG_1679.gif - File downloaded or viewed 3810 time(s)

another side of the strut mount + the bearingIMG_1681.gif - File downloaded or viewed 3759 time(s)

Well, the job was neither complex nor too hard, everything was within reasonable limits. It seems I was able to preserve the alignment - at least I think so, because the van runs good, the tires seem not to be affected by 300 km travel. I marked all parts (with white correction fluid, "Wite-out" ) and put them back, exactly as they were originally assembled (the strut mount has a special groove). I removed ABS sensor and think that it was a good idea - it can be easily damaged when one (an expert like me ) removes the strut assembly. As I recall, I used only 12/14/17/21 metric sockets/a good piece of metal pipe/a lot of WD40. There is only one aspect - when you try to remove the strut shaft nut (NEEDLESS TO SAY - SPRING COMPRESSORS MUST BE USED, if you do not know what are they or you do not have them - you had better ask a car mechanic for help), some additional tools may be needed. For example, I used a screwdriver and a small metal rod (please see the picture) and only after that, I gently removed the strut shaft nut (THE SPRING COMPRESSORS HAD BEEN ALREADY INSTALLED).
When I disassembled the strut assembles I was unpleasantly surprised by the fact that the strut mounts, strut bearings (on both sides) were like new. Since I spend the whole weekend for this job (I must admit, I clearly saw that I should not replace any parts) I stubbornly replaced the strut mounts and 1 strut bearing with the parts from the kit, shown above), expecting a miracle. Test drive proved that all that titanic job/the replacement of the parts was done in vain, the knocking sound is still present. I contacted the mechanic who performed the diagnostics of my car and was promised "free alignment", his advice - "just bring the parts back" was given too late.
Conclusion:
I got some new experience, it was interesting job. Everything was done accurately, I used the torque wrench, the thread lock, nothing was damaged. But I spent the weekend and about 230$ (part + tools) and did not fix the problem, though. I think, next time it will make sense to go to a local Mazda dealer and ask them to diagnose the problem first, they know the car, most likely they will not make such a mistake.

PS: I am not sure if I am allowed to do that here, but anyway, if not, the message can be edited by Admin: I have at hands 2 secondhand strut mounts (I simply do not see any difference between my OEM strut mounts and the newly installed Monroe ones) and one brand new strut bearing (from my Monroe kit, I did not unpack it), Vancouver area, CA. If someone (from my area) needs those parts he can get them for a symbolic price.Best,
Dmitry
MAZDA 2000 LX, 142000 miles , looks cool, runs great.
AUTOPAGE RS-900LCD
self-installed DRL (USA->CANADA)

Strut assembly was removed, I used the second jack to support the lower suspension.IMG_1682.gif - File downloaded or viewed 3750 time(s)

the strut bearing can be seen. It is a little bit dirty, but there is no any clearance, it sits tight.IMG_1691.gif - File downloaded or viewed 3727 time(s)

A combination of the screwdriver and a small metal rod helped me to remove the strut shaft nut .IMG_1690.gif - File downloaded or viewed 3684 time(s)

We mark everything, we want to put all bolts to their original positions, we even want to distinguish between them (2 and 3 marks on the photo).IMG_1697.gif - File downloaded or viewed 3750 time(s)

If you still have that "clunk" in the front, you may want to check your sway bar endlinks. Those things will cause the noise going over any kind of bump or "quick" steering.
I think they cost about 45/each at the dealer
Where in vancouver area are you?

If you still have that "clunk" in the front, you may want to check your sway bar endlinks.

Of course, I have checked them then I removed the strut assemblies (actually, even before, because I was thinking that they could damaged). In my view they are OK, since they do not have any clearance at all.

mtbr wrote:

I think they cost about 45/each at the dealer

I changed them less than one year ago at Mazda dealer in the USA (the cost of each was 40$, the total cost was 280$ (labor + diagnostics)).Best,
Dmitry
MAZDA 2000 LX, 142000 miles , looks cool, runs great.
AUTOPAGE RS-900LCD
self-installed DRL (USA->CANADA)

i just bought a MPV ES and had the same noise in the front end driver and passenger sides replaced both lower control arms cause bushings were shot in them . immediate alignment and now smooth a quiet as new. got bot control arms for 100.00 on ebay

I have an 05 ES that I just replaced sway bar end links and both lower control arms, now it's on to both tie rod ends and strut mount and strut bearings, hopefully it will be as quiet as new! It's got 196,000 miles on it.

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