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Brief Explanation: Although about 30% larger physically, the 130 amp alternator is a direct bolt-on upgrade with no modifications needed. My 95 amp alternator was starting to fail in my truck. When I went in to the parts store to get a new one, the guy at the counter told me the 130 amp was the the same price. Needless to say I got the 130 amp one.

Step 2: Using the 8mm socket and 1/4" ratchet, loosen the hose clamps on the air intake hose. Undo the electrical connectors so you can move the hose out of the way.

Step 3: Using the 3/8" ratchet move the belt tensioner counter-clockwise to relieve belt tension and remove the belt. (You may want to make a drawing of your belt routing if your sticker on the rad support is missing/unreadable)

Step 4: With the 3/8" ratchet, 1/2" socket and extension remove the 3 bolts holding the alternator. (Penetrating fluid may be helpful) There's a Christmas tree pin holding a coolant hose on the side of the alternator, pop it off.

Step 5: Using the 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet remove the main power cable. (If you didn't disconnect the battery, wrap the end in a rag to prevent shocks) With the small flathead undo the two connectors.

Installation

Step 6: Reconnect the two connectors and the power cable.

Step 7: Line up the alternator on the motor, start the bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading and ensure proper alignment. Pop the Christmas tree pin back in the hole on the alternator.

Step 8: Tighten the bolts. They don't need to be reefed on, just good and tight.

Step 9: Re-install the belt, make sure its routed properly. I used a new belt. My old belt was still in decent shape so I'm keeping it as an emergency back-up.

Step 10: Re-install the intake hose. Make sure you tighten the hose clamps and re-connect all connectors.

All done!

__________________
Elwood: "It's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses."
Jake: "Hit it."

I realize this is a very old thread, but it fits the question I can't see answered anywhere else:
I have a 99 3.0L FFV. This has the 95A alternator. I read that upgrading to a 200A requires upgrading the wires to 0 gauge. Of course 130A is much less than 200A - but it's also much more than 95A! Is there no safety concern with the "direct replacement" upgrade from 95A to 130A? If not, why not?
Thanks!
Todd

I never upgraded my wiring, drove it for over a year before I scrapped the truck, never had any electrical issues. If you really wanted to upgrade you wiring it wouldn't be that hard, just search in the electrical section and I'm sure you'll find a thread on it.

__________________
Elwood: "It's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses."
Jake: "Hit it."