Step 17: Place camera adapter on pole

Step 18: Finished! Now, use it to take some pictures.

Congratulations! You have finished assembling the rig. Test it out by pushing the base back and forth, it should orbit smoothly around the platform. ...

123D Catch is a new application and service from Autodesk that turns a series of photographs into a 3D model of an object or space.

The rig described here helps you structure the photos for best results. It lets you spin the camera around the object at a constant height and distance, while the object stays still. You can easily move the camera up and down to get top and bottom angles.

I have read several of your comments and given the problems listed some thought. It seems to me that one could just have a stationary table. Bevel the outer edge of the table top. Bend pvc into the bevel. Use a three way connector to attach the ends together. Attach another length of pipe to the third opening in the connector (the opening sticking out and away from the table top). Insert another pipe ( smaller in diameter) (longer in length) into that one. Drill pin holes at intervals into the outside pipe and a single set into the inside pipe. Use an adapter coupling on the inside pipe to add another very short piece of pipe that is the outside pipe's same size. Put another t connector on the very short pipe so that there are two ends aligned vertically. Attach a length of pipe to the bottom (enough so that it can rest on the floor). Slide the smaller pipe into the top. Make pin holes as before. Attach camera to top of small pipe. The end result should be something like a large, side ways T attached to a hoop that is wrapped around a table. Each leg of the T is adjustable (via the pin holes) and the hoop should spin freely around the table. Below is a simple hand drawn picture to give you a better idea of what I mean. I hope this helps. If any one is interested in this I would be willing to make a video on how to do this or make a 3d model of it. Either one may take some time since I work offshore and will only be able to work on this once I get home.

I agree. I've used 123D Catch with a turntable. I made a background for the turntable (with a unique geometric colored shape for each corner). The lighting was consistent and 123D Catch had no problems. I suppose a large object may be more suited to having a moving camera mount.

You are absolutely right!I have tried to use 123D catch with a turntable and did not work even after giving it several tries.

Then I found the trick and the turntable method worket very fine.I used a colored surface with large pattern for the turn table. I clicked photos with such angles that the background other than the turntable does not get into the photo. Also focused it nicely so that, the background was totally out of focus

Your method seems to be very useful one.

but clicking photos by holding the camera by hands, doen't give bad results in 123D catch. If you click photos with progression near 10% (90% prev data, 10% new data), then you can scan the objects with very sharp details.

An intriguing and well-executed, if a little impractical, project. The horizontal 'swing-arm' effect requires a lot of floor space (though that would be good for lots of (natural) light), and does demand a FLAT floor.

It does, however, seem a reasonable solution to modelling larger objects than might be practical on a turntable. Four more pieces similar to the 45-degree(?) braces for the vertical pole, but pivoted by their flats, to allow for larger platforms, could connect by dowels to the sleeve on the platform-support (possibly, it would also need pivoted attachments), to support larger platforms without blocking the 'swing-arm'.

I would like to see some length/distance markings ruled on the 'swing-arm', and height marks on the vertical pole (so that you can set-up regularly-used points more accurately), as well as a line along the upright's entire length, which could be matched up with a mark on the camera collar, to keep it always pointed in the same direction .

It has, indeed, been said before - by many users - and I'd hope that the programmers are working on what seems to be a problem of scale.

I say "a problem of scale" because this is, essentially, a giant, stripped-down, turntable - albeit with the camera moving, rather than the 'table' and subject - and 123D Catch doesn't seem to have a problem with it.

The main issue with this particular rig is the need for a flat, smooth, level (circlular) space, something over 6-ft in diameter, which doesn't seem particularly suited to 'home use' (not that I think it was/is intended to be such).

Right, I agree, a turntable version of this would not be useful with the current 123D Catch software.

Sure, you need space to use this rig; no question about that. I like this Instructable because in my experience 123D Catch has worked best with consistently lit, well overlapped photos. This rig can help the less experienced user get that right. A person might attach lighting to the stable central platform to provide unmoving light on the subject.

I wonder about your suggestion to enhance the program to allow for a rotating subject with stationary camera. One beautiful feature of 123D Catch is that the photos can be taken with a handheld camera in arbitrary positions. I don't want to lose that. If the software needs consistent lighting cues to be able to handle the camera motions, that's a tradeoff I'm willing to accept.

You're right - it would be a pity to lose the flexibility - hopefully a not-too-distant update will come with either a 'mode'(?) option so you can tell it if you're working freehand or static, or it might have to be 2 different 'versions' (though I'd hope - and assume - not, as they might conflict if you tried to install both on the one machine).

However, looking anew at previous comments, some people are claiming success with turntables, so maybe there are ways around the problem, without waiting for software fixes that may never come (even if they are possible)...

I'm interested to know if anyone has practical experience with this rig? Did it improve the quality of your captures? I'm using a tripod and remote trigger at the moment but I'm looking for something better.

I really need/want a 3d printer. I am jealous (in the nicest possible way) that you are to bring your 3d ideas to life. One day, I will join you (figuratively speaking) in making good ideas into useful ideas. Keep up the nice work. Keep posting Instructables. And thanks, by the way, for including the stl files.

Great work and nice prints. I especially like the red fittings. I'm waiting for my Replicator to arrive and am experimenting with both the Autodesk imaging system and the David laser system. I'll be working with smaller objects and am wondering, have you experimented with a turntable and stationary camera?

I'll be posting models shortly! I think the Makerbot blog has images of some scans already.

I looked at PVC initially - the problem is that it is difficult to find PVC pipe fittings (especially flanges) with a 45 degree angle, and slip joints don't exist. PVC couplers generally contain a small ring inside to keep the pipes from sliding through, and for this design I need the pipes to slide.

However, the build stage lends itself to being built from metal plumbing fixtures, a pipe and two flanges. That would make it more stable. However, it would cost more than all the printed plastic parts put together...

I would respectfully disagree although I do live in an area where PVC supplies are rather abundant. Printing 3D unfortunately is exorbitantly expensive...assuming one can actually find a place with one of these devices for public use. Buying a machine is just straight out of the question considering huge expense. Sure, there is a really big coolness factor to 3D printing but it is just plain expensive. I think I will try this great project but I will use PVC and improvise wherever needed.

An adjustable pole, a level,a camera, 123D Catch, and a piece of string.

1) Attach the camera and the level to the top of the pole.2) Loop the string loosely around the object and tie a knot.3) Tie string to the top of the pole securely at a distance from the object that suits your need.4) Use the level (attached to the top of the pole) to ensure the camera is level.5) take picture6) move around object until you have photographed all aspects.7) Detach string from subject and wrap arounf pole. 8) Detach camera.7) input pictures to 123D catch.9) Done!

Okay work with me here - I can see a potential application / adaptation of this that would really rock! Don't forget where you heard it...

What if you built a structure or booth that the object - or even a person! - could sit in. The rig as described in this instructible would be flipped upside-down so that the axis is directly above the object (or person's) head. You could actually do a 3-D bust of an individual and from there create a mold to cast the likeness in plaster, cement or bronze!

It took about 12 hours to print all the components, at stock Thing-O-Matic settings. I've had some success with using an experimental firmware that supports acceleration, and thus higher speeds, using that I estimate all parts could be printed in 4 hours.

Actually, putting a light on the rig would really throw things off, since the shadows would be in a different position from picture to picture, and would confuse the stitching algorithm. I tested running a string of LEDs up the pole.

If this didn't matter, then it would be a simple matter of putting the target object on a turntable.