The French wine industry is heavily regulated by government rules about what grapes can be grown where, what kinds of wines can be made from what kinds of grapes, how those grapes are to be treated in the vineyard and the winery and so on. Indeed, most European countries operate in the same highly regulated manner, a situation becoming more complicated as the EU itself imposes its will on the continent’s grape-growing, winemaking and labeling. One can make wine in France outside the permitted practices for a particular appellation, but one cannot label or market such a wine as originating in that appellation. Working outside the system of permitted grape varieties and methods entitles a wine to the simple categories Vin de Table or, recently authorized, Vin de France. Labels for Vin de Table cannot carry a vintage date or the names of grapes; wines coming under the designation Vin de France, which will eventually replace Vin de Table, can convey that information, a change greeted with approbation by many French winemakers for the flexibility it affords.

Today I offer five “outlaw wines” from France. One is Vin de Table, three are Vin de France (one of these is sparkling), while another sparkling wine is entitled only to the term mousseaux. Domaine Viret Paradis Dolia Ambré was made in large clay amphorae; it’s an example of the new “orange wine” phenomenon.

4 Responses to “Friday Wine Sips: Five “Outlaw” Wines”

Hi, Ed, sorry about that; you know it’s my standard practice to supply that information. At the tasting, however, which was very crowded, in order to record the alcohol level I would have had to pick up every bottle, examine the fine print and write it down while being jostled by people also waiting to try the wines.

My wife and I have the same problem with the “fine print” when we attend tastings. But thanks so much for regularly providing the information. I’m not very optimistic, but perhaps some day restaurant wine lists will include it routinely.

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