Well, my canoe is light, and it's not too difficult to walk it right on to the rack and off my shoulders.
The rack I have in mind for next year is like this:Kargo Master Pro III Truck Bed Racks - Truck Rack
Another idea is this:https://www.usrack.com/beachcomber_rack.php
Anyway, if your trailer is hooked up, you could walk in on from the front of the truck, resting the bow on front bar of the rack, and feeding it rearward. Rollers or foam pipe insulation would be a very good idea.

I can understand your concern for the current rack system. A large degree of the canoe's weight is on the front hanger, right in the middle of the canoe. Until you decide on which of the new mounting systems to buy, you may want to place a long 2 x 4 along the hangers so that there is more support forward along a greater length of the canoe.

I've hauled my canoe using foam blocks, on a soft top Jeep Wrangler, factory roof racks, on Jeep Grand Cherokees and on my Toyota, a Yakima roof rack. All systems have worked well for me, as I believe the key is finding good solid tie down locations, especially at the front. The 2003 Tacoma had the chrome bumper package, which provided a well located hole on each side through which to pass the ropes. Then at the back, I used the Factory tie down points at the front of the bed. The ropes at the back are angled to keep the canoe from moving back, and the ropes at the front, angled to keep the canoe from moving forward.

You often see people carrying a canoe tied like this \-------\. Rope from stern to rear of vehicle and from bow to front of vehicle. That keeps the canoe from going backwards, but there is nothing keeping it from going forward in a panic stop.
It should be tied /-------\ with a rope from a thwart to back bumper and from bow to front.

__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht

After losing two kayaks off the top of our Honda CRV (my fault, wrong rack parts) I went with a different rack setup and tie them down individually with the Thule straps. Better than bungees, which I like to use a lot.

I don't trust straps or bungee. I use a poly rope and employ the "trucker's hitch". Never been able to describe, in words, how to tie it. Best learned by watching.

I totally agree! Ropes with very little stretch are the way to go. I do; however, use a ratchet strap or two acrossed the canoe and fasten each end to the rack. I've seen racks come loose from cars, so I want the canoe and rack, blocks, etc. securely tied down.

You often see people carrying a canoe tied like this \-------\. Rope from stern to rear of vehicle and from bow to front of vehicle. That keeps the canoe from going backwards, but there is nothing keeping it from going forward in a panic stop.
It should be tied /-------\ with a rope from a thwart to back bumper and from bow to front.

Scamper Jim,
I don't think my canoe is in danger of falling off, but the forward end wiggles when I pass big rigs on the highway.

Dennis,
I think a canoe that is strapped fore and aft to a rack that is bolted to a truck bed is enough. Running straps to bumpers or tie downs is really for peace of mind. Just my opinion. However, on a car top with little distance between the rods, they are essential. Don't bring your new boat home on those foam gunwale blocks. Buy the rack first.

You might look at the Yakima & Thule web sites. They have solutions to loading / unloading watercraft from vehicle roofs.

Our Yakima rack has an extension which pulls out of one of the cross tubes, extending about 3 feet beyond the side of the vehicle. That allows me - alone - to lift one end of our kayaks up onto the extension, then go to the other end of the kayak(s), lift it onto the rack, then push the first end over onto the rack. Reverse the process to single handedly unload the kayak. It's really a simple solution.