This main thoroughfare puts the ‘eat’ into street. Its plethora of nondescript Vietnamese shopfronts, restaurants and grocers makes dinnertime an Olympic sport. So if you think you’re spoilt for choice outside Thanh Phong, then wait until you head inside.

The little hidey-hole with the blue-green sign and rock-hard furniture doesn’t stand out from the crowd until you count up the items on the menu. Spring rolls, beef balls in betel leaves, salted squid, pork and prawn rice-paper rolls with peanutty dipping sauce, bulging Vietnamese pancakes doused in fish sauce, broken rice with shredded pork, and nearly 200 other whopping-great choices that make reading them an hour-long event.

By the time you’re ready to order, you’ll be gnawing off your arm. Yet, surprisingly, the service here is faster than a 100-metre sprinter, but it doesn’t mean that taste or staff friendliness is compromised. This is cheap and cheerful Vietnamese food with above-average service and a selection that deserves a gold medal.