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ha! so i read this thread the other day and though "what the hell is a micro-cd?" then today while cleaning in my garage i ran across an original level 10 kit box with the micro CD in it. LMK if you are still looking as i have one and clearly have no use for it!

I just need a video showing how to fix my lvl 10 bolt, i got it used with the ule kit installed but it leaks down the barrel and i ony have so much air to tech it. any tutorial videos that cover that??

Here is a short level 10 tuning procedure that I wrote a while back. It might help you.

Don't follow the AGD instructions exactly. We have found a few tweaks over the years that negate some of the original thoughts that are in the original instructions.

The carriers are sized using lines and dots. Each line represents a 1 and a series of dots represents 0.5. Eg; 2 lines and dots equals size 2.5. Carriers range from size 0 to 3.5 but most people only have from 0 to 2.5 and most new kits have even less.

When tuning your level 10, remove all the shims from the powertube before starting. They don't affect the operation but they can cause false leaks which cause you to use a carrier size that is too tight. Don't put them back when you are done. You shouldn't ever need them.

For carrier sizing:

Find the carrier size that causes the installed oring to fit freely over the bolt stem. The carrier should sit on the bolt stem without moving if the bolt is held in a vertical position. If you tap the valve on a hard surface, the carrier should be loose enough to allow the bolt to move. If you have to force the carrier onto the bolt stem with any force at all, then it is too tight. Install the bolt and valve into the gun. When aired up there should be no leaking. If it leaks, take the carrier out and replace it with the next smaller size. Always use the same white carrier oring in each carrier that you use. It is the orings that you are adjusting. Try it again. You want to use the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak.

Any time that the gun fires and does not reset or short strokes and does not reset, or just chuffs and does not reset, the problem is most likely a carrier that is too tight. Installing shims will not help. Shims only help if the bolt moves, hits an object but does not vent any air, and then cannot reset because the chamber is still fully charged. Most of the time the bolt always moves far enough to expose the vent hole, get rid of excess air, and then reset.

For spring adjustment:

You want to use the bolt spring that allows you to shoot about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will cycle at. So, if you want to use the gun at 280fps, then your desired lower limit of operation is 260fps. Insert your long bolt spring. Turn the velocity adjuster down before you air up the valve. Then gradually turn up the velocity until the gun will cycle. This is your lower velocity. Measure it. If it is above 265fps, then you will need a shorter spring or you will need to clip the one you have (unless you have red one. They are usually in the correct range). If you clip a spring, only clip half a coil at a time and then try it using the same procedure of starting with a low velocity setting. Make sure you put the cut end of the spring towards the bolt. If you have the short spring installed, and the lower range is 30fps below the desired shooting velocity, I wouldn't worry about using a stiffer spring and would just go with the short bolt spring. If it was much lower than that, I would definately clip a long spring to get closer to the desired range.

ok, so now it shoots but it also sounds like it lekaing when i shoot. it only lasts until the trigger returns. thougths? I have a logic ultimate mech frame on the new cuatom ver minimag body if that matters.

A leak sound until the bolt returns is normally caused by bolt stick. The bolt stick slows down the return of the bolt. The vent hole leaks out residual air until the bolt spring has more force than the pressure left in the chamber. Then the bolt fully resets allowing the on-off to push the sear and trigger rod/trigger back into position.

when i got it I was unable to pull the trigger becuase the sear wasnt pushed forward after being aired up. I got the rail and sear used but it doesn't look that bad. I am getting a tacone rail and rt sear soon, will that help the issue? it leaks until I let go of the trigger as of now. I'm using the longest spring, didn't come with Red one, and no shims in it. Thoughts/ comments?

when i got it I was unable to pull the trigger becuase the sear wasnt pushed forward after being aired up.

That is caused by bolt stick. The bolt isn't fully resetting which prevents the sear from rotating forward and pushing the trigger pin out. Bolt stick is almost always caused by a carrier that is too tight. But, there can be other issues such as a leaking on-off pin or regulator pin assembly oring that can cause input air to continue flowing into the front chamber which will also prevent the bolt from resetting.

Originally Posted by Mr. Sinister

it leaks until I let go of the trigger as of now.

So, it leaks when you hold the trigger back but not when you release it? It usually doesn't work that way.