From the weather to the rules of the road, Helen McClure, from
expatexplorers.org, gives us a rundown on life in Dubai.

How hot can it really get? That’s one of the first questions I hear when I tell people I live in Dubai. In reply I can give you three examples:

1. In the summer, we don’t heat our water. In fact, we shower using the hot tap, as it’s cooler than the water coming out of the cold tap.

2. My car thermometer registers temperatures I didn’t even think were possible. In the height of summer, it will be 30C when I wake up at 6am and reach nearly 50C at midday. For three months of the year it’s impossible to be outside even at night.

3. Excuse my crassness, but when you sit on the toilet, the water is so hot your derriere is treated to a steam bath.

So what you should take away from this is that when choosing your new home, check that there is proper air conditioning in every room. And when buying a car, ditto.

It’s very British to talk about the weather, but when chewing the cud over a glass of wine (once you’ve got an alcohol licence) the topic of conversation is often about driving. Traffic jams, poor road layouts, crashes and pile-ups. And it is little wonder that the habits of some leave a lot to be desired. There are generally two main issues: the road layout and the quality of driving.

If you don’t want to become road ratatouille you’ll need to learn the rules of the road. And I don’t mean the official ones. Don’t be surprised if someone sits in your blind spot, cuts you up leaving paint on your bonnet so he can reach his exit, or undertakes you at high speed. Drivers are generally only thinking of one thing – their destination. Fifty years ago Dubai had fewer than 50 cars. Today there are more than 1 million, including more than 17,000 taxis.

If you see a car weaving around, it is unlikely to be a drunk driver, given the rules on alcohol here. Despite it being illegal, he is probably texting. But it may be hard to see as most windows are blacked out to give better protection from the sun.

Dubai has grown faster than almost any other part of the planet. Road networks have been laid overnight and in this jungle of tarmac it is easy for people to get lost. Your satnav will not save you either. It will be outdated before you’ve even had the chance to plug it in, and the bossy lady (or man) will forever be telling you to “turn round when possible” as she (or he) assumes you are driving across a sand dune, when all you can see is pristine asphalt.

Instead you will learn to navigate by landmark. The UAE used to be part of the Trucial States administered by the British, and so roundabouts are a part of this legacy. These concrete halos are often adorned with creative sculptures such as a pearl and oyster, a lantern, a clock tower, and more bizarrely, a fish.

So once you’ve got your bearings you’ll probably want to get out and about. Well, contrary to popular belief, it is all on offer here. Tallest building in the world? Check. Biggest fish tank in the world? Check. Biggest indoor ski slope in the world, with real snow? Check. But it’s not all water parks and shopping malls. Just going for a bonfire in the desert is a great way to entertain the children, and the mountains are only an hour away. If that’s too far there are plenty of free beaches. Or if you’re looking for culture, try Jumeirah Mosque or a trip on an abra on the Creek.

Dubai is a very progressively Emirate, but you would be mistaken if you think this is England in the sun. There are strict rules, but these can change depending on who you are talking to and what time of day it is. Moving to a new country is always stressful, and after eight houses in eight years, I think my stress levels have been tested. The best advice is to expect things not to run smoothly and then you may be pleasantly surprised when something does work. Systems and processes change all the time. I’m not being a pessimist, just a realist. This is a very fast moving, and exciting, place to be.

To help you on your way, here are my top tips:

Communications

There is no door-to-door postal system in Dubai and so a PO Box address is a necessary investment. Try to get into a routine by Skyping home and staying in contact that way.

Transport

Dubai is not a place you can walk around, and although there is an impressive metro, generally it’s not very easy to get around on public transport. Consider this when deciding where you want to live.

Activities

Life moves indoors in the summer months. It’s sometimes difficult and frustrating to adapt to the change in routine. Accepting it is the best policy, and remember in the winter the weather is perfect.

Days of the week

The working week is Sunday through to Thursday. Friday is a day of prayer and an official day off. This will affect your mind. You will be lulled into a false sense of security when you lounge in bed thankful for a restful Sunday morning until you realise you’re late for work. But equally, when you throw your briefcase in the corner on a Thursday night you know it’s time for a weekend aperitif.

Cover up

Compared with other Emirates and Middle Eastern countries Dubai is liberal, but cultural sensitivities must still be observed. Western dress is acceptable, with knees and shoulders covered in public areas, but it’s a good idea to carry a pashmina or scarf. It is useful as a cover up if your car breaks down, to keep the sun off your head, as a makeshift beach towel, and to protect you from the brutal air conditioning.

Food and drink

Pork is readily available in some Western supermarkets for non-Muslims, usually in a discrete corner of the store. Alcohol is only served to non-Muslims and at licenced outlets associated with hotels and clubs, or at liquor stores if you have a licence.