Has anyone taken into account that 340's are so big they don't go under some bridges? When we had ours delivered on a low-loader they had to take some of the electronics off the radar arch to get under some of the bridges enroute (I know it depends on where you are going). If you had to do that to take a trip out for the week-end it would just be a big PITA without regard to any permits that may be required for a wide load. Understand it's not the trailering heavy loads it's the stopping you have to worry about and climbing back up the ramp lol. And, if you tow anything that's considered too heavy for your tow vehicle's rating just watch your insurance company do a "crab like" maneuver. The thought of an accident and the repercusions are mind boggling :smt101.

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Very good point. Its important to know the 'loaded height' of your boat. It can vary widely from trailer to trailer, depending on wheel/tire diameter, bunk positioning, etc. A full fuel load will cause a trailer suspension to 'squish' - conversely a light boat can 'load out' taller than the last load, on the same trailer.

13'6" is legal height nationwide without permits. This does NOT mean 13'6" of vertical clearance is provided, however. Low railroad bridges abound, for example. Its best to know your route in advance if you are taller than 12' loaded height. The same permit you pull for overwidth (beams >8'6") can also serve for overheight loads. We specialized in beams up to 12'6" and heights up to 14'6". Many states require escort cars front or rear for loads larger than this.

Wide is relatively easy for a careful and experienced driver. Tall is more challenging due to tree branches, cable/telephone wires, and other overhead obstructions not part of infrastructure that the state knows about.

In any case, the hauler (private or for-hire) is responsible to check and maintain clearances. A permit does not absolve the hauler of liability for striking an obstruction. The permit is just that - permission to move an oversize load.

I have never seen the attachment points on the radar arch and know nothing about them. I've read several other sites and this seems to be a common problem. From what I can gleen, it appears that the radar arch is attach to the gunnel by using a 1/2" thick "L" shaped aluminum flange with the small part of the "L" attached to the gunnel with the arch attaching to the upright vertical part with four bolts. Is this correct? If so; why couldn't you remove just three bolts on each side and loosen the fouth bolt using the last bolt to swivel the arch forwards or backwards ? If this would work, by using a few ropes and a come-a-long/winch couldn't this been turned into a fairly quick one man job ? If the aluminum flange is too soft it could be replaced with stainless steel flanges. If the arch hanges up because of some horizontial obstruction near the flanges you could put several washers on the "swivel bolt" to act as a bearing surface and add and extra inch or two of clearance to each side of the arch ? What am I missing here? Without some solution such as this, trailering a 340 becomes a real problem.

I am fairly confident that your boat on the right trailer will not be 14' tall. If you are close most of the time you can lower your bunks on the trailer. Where are you going with it. Legal height in TX is 14'. most everything now is being built at 16' across the country. Here is a nice site for TX http://www.txdmv.gov/motor_carrier/overweight_permit/roadways/low_clearance/default.htm They have documents that show the bridge height of every bridge so you can plan your route. If you are on interstates and decent roads you should not have an issue. The older boat design had the backward leaning arch. It is not as high as the modern boat design with the forward lean. I was looking at the manuals trying to find the specs and man the old manuals have sooooo much more in them about maintenance! I wish they still did that.