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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Well, after many requests, I finally made Snorlax. (I know he's not blue, but in my fire-red game he's a deep olive green, and I didn't have the right blue for him LOL). You of course, can make him any color you like :D

I posted only this one picture of him, because frankly, that's pretty much everything there is. The pattern is pretty straightforward, with maybe a little fancy footwork on the face part, but it's very easy really.

I made mine in the sitting position because he fits on the shelf better that way (and I couldn't see his little face if he was laying down up there). But of course, you can make him in any position that pleases you. As usual I'm not really happy with his face, but faces have always been the bane of existence. I know y'all will do better on the face than I did :D

As always, if you have any trouble, have a question or find a problem in the pattern, let me know and I'll get back to you ASAP.

Snorlax

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in your main color (green in example) and lighter color (tan in example) and a few yards of white for claws and 'toenails'

G hook

Fiberfill

Needle and thread to match yarn colors

Small bits of med brown felt (or yarn of similar color)

small amount of black embroidery thread

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important as long as your choice of yarn, hook and your individual tension result in a consistently firm stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

I join my rounds, but if you're most comfortable working in continuous rounds, then that's fine too.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

BODY:

Begin with lighter color:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around, change to main color in last sc of round (64)

Rnd 9-17: sc in each sc around (64)

Rnd 18: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (56)

Rnd 19: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)

Rnd 20: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

You can begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 21: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)

Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 23: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)

Rnd 24: dec over next 2 sc around (8)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping. Weave tail through final round and tug gently to close. Secure and weave in end.

HEAD:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7-14: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

You can begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (24)

F/O. Do not close neck opening. Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping.

EARS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

FACE INSET:

Using lighter color:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 6 sc (40)

First point:

Sc in next 6 sc. Ch1 turn (turning chain does not count as first sc of next row) (6)

Dec over next 2 sc, repeat twice more (3)

Decrease over all three sc in row (1)

F/O. Weave in end.

Second point:

Attach yarn to next sc next to first point. Ch 1. sc in same stitch as joining, sc in next 5 sc. Ch1 turn (turning chain does not count as first sc of next row) (6)

Dec over next 2 sc, repeat twice more (3)

Decrease over all three sc in row (1)

F/O. Weave in end.

Attach yarn to any sc (except either of the 'points). Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. Sc evenly around, putting 3 sc in each of the 'points'. Join to first sc with slip stitch. F/O.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 5-9: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 11-13: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 15-16: sc in each sc around. (12)

Stuff moderately firmly while shaping.

Rnd 17: Flatten end. Working through all layers, sc across end. (6)

F/O and weave in end.

CLAWS:

(using white)

Attach yarn between rows 2 and 3 of arm. Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch between rows 1 and 2.

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in nearest side of center of beginning rnd (this may require a little manipulation).

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch on other side of center of beginning rnd. (again, may require some manipulation.)

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in between rows 1 and 2.

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in between rows 2 and 3.

F/O and weave in ends.

(Alternately, you can cut a piece of white felt in a strip with five small points and sew to end of arm)

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next 8 sc, sc in last 12 sc (40)

Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (40)

Rnd 10: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 7 more times, for a total of 8 decreases) sc in last 12 sc (32)

Rnd 11: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around, change to main color in last sc of round. (16)

Rnd 13: working in front loops only for this round, sc in each sc around (16)

F/O. Trim ends to about 2 inches or so and stuff them inside the 'nail'. This is probably all the stuffing you'll need for these.

Sew three toenails on the top side of each foot (as shown). Cut a circle of the medium brown felt and sew to the center of the foot (as shown).

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before you sew them on. This gives you the opportunity to 'play' with positioning, and make small adjustments.

Face inset is sewn to head as shown. Ears are sewn to top of head placed as shown. Head is sewn to body (if making him in a sitting position, you may wish to consider having his head tilt down and to the side as if he'd just dozed off).

Arms are sewn to the sides of the body near where the head is sewn on.

Legs are sewn to body either in sitting position or in sleeping position.

Facial features are simply embroidered with black thread. Two tiny triangles are the 'fangs'.

awwwwww it soo cute!!!i love him or her!i realy love you work and was wondering if you could makeskitty and rouge the bat?they are both fairly easy but i havent made a pattern that works!so if you could that be great!b.t.w i love all of your work your soooooo good!!!

The Lugia I will have up as soon as I can get it finished... the Espeon is not my pattern (well, not entirely)It's an adaptation of my Umbreon pattern by another crafter, and you can find the pattern here: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=356831.0 --- it's a very good adaptation :D

Hey! I absolutley LOVE your patterns :D ive made qute a few of them n.nim making this snorlax for somebody for christmas :DYou do a awesome job at making the patterns!Id love to see a pidgey pattern, or a skitty! Sorry if you get alot of requests and its annoying or something but i really love your patterns :D

I love all your pokemon patterns! (well all the patterns in general but, pokemon are just awesome) I've already made myself a psyduck. I was wondering if you could make a Dragonite pattern? My boyfriend really wants one, and I can't make patterns (lol). Thanks so much!

When I do the first 7 rows of this for the belly (and when I try to do all your other patterns) my circle is not flat at all. I've checked and double checked, and I can't seem to figure it out. Thanks!

Good morning from the East Coast, I love your pattern! I am getting stuck on his face. I used a smaller hook and it seems like the face insert is too big, so I dropped down to the next hook size. I am not really sure how to make it look right? Also is the face insert sewn to the bottom round of the head where it is attached to the body? And could you help with the point, mine look nothing like yours. In other words, I need help :) Thank you

Thank you for the pattern. The only problem I have had so far is the face instructions seem a little vague (fasten off, then attach yarn, but to which side of the first point, and why not slip stitch down one side of the point, how long of an end to leave at any point)

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