Dona Maria: Mexican Bright Spot in Suffern, NY

Dona Maria, open since spring, brings something different–and welcome–to Suffern. It’s Mexican food, “but nothing like Rockland has ever seen,” reports Deven Black; “much, much better than the canned beans and reheated glop” slung by some local competitors. Expect bright, authentic flavors in inventive, slightly dressed-up dishes that really work–like seared salmon, seasoned with a dusting of chiles and herbs, or a Mexico-and-beyond cheese plate of anejo, cotija, and Manchego, among other choices. “Everything is cooked fresh,” Deven adds, “except the beans and sauces, which are made the way they should be…very slowly.”