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NAV5800AWW Amana Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for NAV5800AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Water leaking on floor from "mysterious place underneath washer"

Water was leaking on the floor during the wash cycle and especially during draining of the washer. I removed the front panel at ground level and watched while draining after a rinse.

I t was obvious that water was spraying from a hole in the rubber end of the hose (the hose is a fused assembly of a plastic section and a rubber section).

So, I finished draining, removed the hose (required pliers to squeeze off a hose clamp).

Upon inspecting the hose, it was also apparent that the hole was caused by rubbing against a support bracket for the motor. This should not happen, but it did because the plastic standoff supposed to keep the hose away from the bracket was installed 180 degrees backwards.

So, I simply replaced the hose and turned the bracket around to the correct orientation.

Everything worked as planned and my repair cost was much less than if I had called someone out.

sneakers broke fins off the agitator

I first grasped the fabric softner dispenser and pulled it up and off agitator. I then removed the bolt from the center of the agitator with a 1/2" socket, 8" extension and ratchet. I grasped the agitator assembly and pulled it up and off. Reversed the procedure to install. The bolt can be started by placing a piece of paper towel over the socket, then inserting the bolt into the socket. It will hold it there while you start the bolt. I also took the opportunity to clean the accumulated soap scum from under the agitator while it was disassembled. An easy fix!!!

removed outer enclosure to expose inside workings. removed all retaining springs to tub and transmission housing. Inverted tub to access agitator pulley and belt. Removed pulley and cut belt off.(I knew I was replacing it, anyway.)Had to remove large tub bracket to exchange new pulley for old. Disconnect bleach reservoir filler tubing on tub assembly. Disconnect power connector to drive motor. Removed water pump to access drive pulley where new belt belongs. Aligned belt to pulleys and checked idler pulley tension which was acceptable. Replace helix drive lug against spin/agitator and tightened retaining bolt. Assembled components in reverse order and conducted test run. Success. Smooth running machine and saved about $200 on professional labor costs. I had no repair manual but you should have a personal confidence in general repair work. Something like a history of taking things apart and putting them back together successfully. I had an independent appliance repair guy examine the washer and he said it was too complicated for him. Once I had it apart, it seemed fairly basic. Good luck!

removed front, top & loosened side covers, removed agitator, removed inner drum & removed outer drum. had to release balance springs, it is a good idea to silicone in the new seal in the drum. this will prevent future leaks. removed lower plate containing the bearing & replaced. re-assembled in opposite order. i gave the silicone a day to cure before use, it works fine now. they say you need a special tool to remove the nut for the drum. i just used a pair of channellocks & tapped the handle, & it came right off.

This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as this is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.

I was doing laundry one day, and noticed that the washer did not drain. I drained the water via a shop vac and checked the hoses. There was a baby sock stuck in the hose leading to the pump! I cleared the jam and the washer finally drained again. Once I ran another load, the washer wouldn't drain. I repeated the procedure, and found that the motor was spinning but the pump was not working. I disconnected the machine and proceded to remove the pump. I found that, due to blockage, the motor had reamed out the housing that turns the pump. So, at the advice of my father, who has used this site for other repairs, I entered the model make and number. I was able to view an exploded schematic of the washer in order to correctly identify the part I needed. I found the part, ordered it, and it came to me in about 2 days. I replaced the pump, and my washer has worked great ever since. Thank you PartSelect.com.

Washer wouldn't fill on hot selection, OK on cold

Remove the electrical power plug and disconnect the water hoses at the back. Remove the lower front panel by taking out the two screws at the bottom edge. Then lift out the upper front panel which exposes the two sheet metal screws holding down the top panel. Lift open the top panel and secure it up about 90 degrees so it doesn't flop over backwards. Twine tied to something overhead works fine. Replacement procedure for the valve is obvious, once exposed.

I first unplugged the washer. I removed the 2 screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel, they are located at the very bottom outer edges of the front panel.I then removed 4 of the large springs that are attached to the drum, this washer has six but I only removed the front 4. Removed the two hoses going to the water pump and drain hose, removed 4 bolts that attach the motor to its mounting bracket. Unplugged the wiring harnesses going to motor and what looks like a capacitor mounted to the side of the motor.Then I removed the drive belt. ( when the machine would first start to spin it would make a clacking noise which ended up being a chunk out the the drive belt causing the belt tenshioner to slap causing that noise and letting the drum spin during the wash cycle. So far very easy. I then removed the motor and when it is disconnected you can then remove the water pump. Three hex head bolts need to be removed and it pulls right off. I then removed the six bolts that hold the brake pads in place. I applied silicone grease to the new brake pads and installed them. The pad at the back of the drum was very hard to line up with the holes. I used a very small screwdriver to line up the disc brake mounting holes to get the bolts started and it worked fine. I then put it all back together and it works great. I have to add that I have been an auto mechanic for 28 years and not to brag but this is not your average repair job.

As the other posting said, it appears our problem was due to constant overloading, as an inspection of the machine with the bottom service panel removed clearly revealed all three milkstool legs broken away from the round center piece. My teen-agers are now aware that I am somewhat displeased about this.My first action was to order the repair manual. In retrospect, it was only marginally useful as a job aid, but was essential in verifying ID of the part and understanding details of how the machine works. I started by following the manual which said to remove the agitator. The agitiator didn't want to be removed, even after repeated attempts and applications of varying amounts of both physical and vocal persuasion. So, I reconsidered what I really needed to be doing, and dislodging the agitator (and subsequently all of the spline seals) really wasn't necessary. I just needed to get to and replace the crushed milkstool (and leave everything with a seal alone!). So, Phase 1 - I removed the front panels, and tilted up the top. I then disconnected the power cable to the motor and the inlet/outlet hoses to the pump (more on my haste in this step in a moment...). The wiring harness is held in place on the machine back and milkstool by plastic retainers that release when compressed. I then disconnected the green ground wire, the panel that holds the blue water inlet valve assembly, the black hose on top of the tub and the clear air pressure hose (just pulls straight out of the tub side connector). This allowed the top to be removed and set aside. I then pulled the drain hose through and pulled the plate that holds it in place from the back, then removed all the screws that hold the cabinet to the base, then set the cabinet aside. Next, I disconnected all 7 springs from the base to the tub, and the tub was free. I pulled the tub from the base (not too heavy) and inverted it to get at the motor/pump/milkstool. Phase 2 - gently removed the idler spring and removed the belt from the pulley. Pulled 10 1/2" self-tapping screws that hold the milkstool to the tub and the motor to the milkstool (these can be discarded as you get new ones with the milkstool). Now pulled 6 screws that hold the brake pads in place, and pulled the brakepads. The manual says to replace the pads whenever pulled, but these didn't look terribly worn, and work just fine after reassembly. The pulley then came off easily, and then subsequently so did the milkstool (with integrated bearing). Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly, and all seemed logical enough until I got to reattaching the hoses to the pump. The manual does not make it clear which one goes where, and I forgot to take a picture of that part of the machine before dismantling. Long story short, I put them on backwards, and you'll probably not be surprised to hear the machine didn't work as anticipated when we turned it on! (wouldn't spin, wouldn't pump out the water and made a nice puddle in the laundry room). Once we ladled out all of the water from the tub and reversed the hoses, everything worked fine. So - words to the wise (1) mark hoses, wires, etc with tape, grease pencil, whatever works for you BEFORE disassembly and (2) take close-up digital pics as you progress.

Washer leaked water on the floor. Seal nut assembly rubber and o-ring were worn out.

Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

Replaced the motor.Opened the front panel to gain access to the motor. Removed the motor assembly by removing the four steel screws holding the assembly in place. Removed the motor from the assembly (very easy) put the new motor in place.ZZZZooom-ZZZZoom off and running. I would like to add I was very pleased with the service received from Partsselect.com. I got the part 20% cheaper than ANYWHERE else and got it delivered the next day for no additional charge. The shipping charge was also very resonable. GOOD JOB GUYS!!!