Sounds like what is normally called a bypass hose. It however is normally made of rubber, like the radiator/heater hoses are made of. If it runs from the water pump to the intake manifold, then a bypass hose would be it, regardless of its composition.

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Tools: 10 mm 13,mm,15,mm sockets and a straight screwdriver if you need to pry, a shop light, you will need to get the air out running a while while you add coolant back to level.It's usually the top elbows that leak, if its the 3800 drain coolant into something, go to AutoZone tell them u need the elbows for the 3800, remove your coolant tank, and your alternator, pretty simple, loosen alternator, then slide belt off, then move alternator out of your way, remove the 3 bolts, pull loose, place in new parts, press back in place, then tighten everything back. Discard your bad elbows with bad seals. Check for leaks, if all good, your done.

Engine is overheating. When the engine is cool, check coolant lever (remove radiator cap to check. If o.k. first repalce htermosatat and radiaotr cap. If problem continues, remove fan assy when engine is warm and feel the middle area of radiator (fins). If cold and the rest of the radiator is hot, you have a clogged radiator. Replalce it with a new one.

Also, there are two plastic "elbows" that couile coolant to the heater core (eventuallty). They are located in the area beneath the alternator. They are prone to leaking or outright breaking. Good preventive maintenace require them tobe be replaced The fix is to replace both of them with aluminum elbows, commonly available now in parts stores for that purpose. Don't replace them with new plastic ones! They will break just by looking at them!

There is 1 or 2 elbows (plastic from factory) that connect the coolant channels from the engine block to the tensioner pulley housing. Mine only had one (in front, visible and disintegrated) and in the back, the pulley housing had a nipple (cast) that had o rings and was inserted into the back coolant hole in the block.

You need to make sure to remove all bolts holding the tensioner housing on.

Swivel and/or wiggle the pulley housing off very slowly so as not to break that nipple off of the pulley housing.

The parts stores only sell the elbows in 2 packs, but they do have metal instead of the original plastic.

you should have a block test done. there are different names for it but it requires a special tool that you set over the radiator or reservour cap opening and a special fluid changes colors if exhaust gases are detected in the coolant. this usually signals that you have a warped head or crack in the cylinder head. your car may also have a warped intake manifold. these 3.8 liter intakes warp in the EGR passage area and allow coolant to drain into the crankcase and into your oil pan mixing coolant with the oil. does your oil level seem a little high or is the oil a funny color? btw there are a couple of plastic coolant (elbows) under the alternator area that always leak coolant. you might take a mirror and try to look down there for a leak.

There are several areas of possible leakage. One is the hose and plastic outlet from the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. The hose runs low, underneath the alternator. The plastic outlet cracks, the hose gets old, the clamps on the hose can also be loose. The replacement outlet from the dealer is steel, not plastic. Another possibility for leakage is on the driver's side of the intake manifold. Underneath the air inlet is a metal cover on the end of the intake manifold. This covers the coolant passages at the end of the intake. Mine was oozing antifreeze..you don't have to pull the intake to replace this. The other place for leaks is the intake itself..requiring removal of the intake. I've done this...I don't think it is that bad of a job. However, if you put in a new intake, don't forget to put in a pcv valve..it fits under a small cover at the right rear of the intake manifold.

Buick 3.8's are notorious for intake manifold leaks. If you are sure you are not leaking externally (look under the alternator and on the top of the transmission), it could be an intake manifold leak. I've replaced mine...I didn't think it was too hard a job for an amateur. It could also be a head gasket, but the intake leaks are much more common.

These plastic elbows (3.8L Engine) do fail. To the best of my knowledge this is a dealer only item, which is not a big deal as the cost is low (in terms of car repair). Remove the alternator to gain access to the elbow. Monitor the coolant level following repair.

As you probably know, don't let the engine run low on coolant as engine damage will follow.

YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE BELT TENSIONER.
IF YOU BUY THE CARTER BELT TENSIONER AT ADVANCED AUTO, IT COMES WITH: A PLASTIC ELBOW WITH O RINGS, TENSIONER, PULLEY, NEW O RING WHERE THE BELT TENSIONER MATES TO THE ENGINE BLOCK AND NEW O RINGS FOR THE INLET AND OUTLET CONNECTIONS ON THE BELT TENSIONER TO THE HEATER CORE (COST $72).
IF YOU DON'T REPLACE ALL THE ABOVE O RINGS THEN YOU CAN EXPECT MORE LEAKS.
IN ORDER TO REPLACE THE PLASTIC ELBOW YOU MUST REMOVE THE BELT TENSIONER ANYWAY. IF THE BELT HAS SEVERE CRACKS REPLACE IT ALSO.
STEPS:
-REMOVE BELT
-DISCONNECT BATTERY
-DRAIN ANTIFREEZ AND DISCARD
-REMOVE ALTERNATOR
-REMOVE BELT TENSIONER
-REMOVE PLASTIC ELBOW (DO NOT ALLOW BROKEN PIECES PLASTIC OR DIRT TO GET INSIDE THE ENGINE WATER CAVITIES.
-CLEAN ALL CONNECTION WHERE O RING WILL MATE.
-TO REASSEMBLE GO IN REVERS ORDER
-REFILL THE RADIATOR WITH COOLENT 50% MIX USE THE 5 YR GUARANTEE TYPE.
-MAKE SURE THE COOLENT RESERVIOR IS
FILLED TO THE HOT LEVEL MARK.
-RUN THE ENGINE UNTILE IT IT REACHES THE 1/4 % TEMP MARK ON THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE THEN TURN THE ENGINE OFF AND OPEN THE BLEED SCREW ON TOP OF THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING.
ALLOW THE AIR TO EVACUATE, YOU WILL SEE COOLENT COME OUT THEN CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW.
-BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN YOU OPEN THE RADIATOR TO REFILL TO THE TOP.
-REPEAT THIS ONE MORE TIME.
-RUN THE ENGINE AND KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE' IF THE TEMPERATURE GOES BEYOND THE 1/2% MARK, SHUT DOWN THE ENGINE QUICKLEY AND LET THE ENGINE COOL.
THIS MAY TAKE HOURS TO COOL DOWN BUT THE COOLING SYSTEM WILL TURN FROM PRESSURIZED TO VACUUM AND DRAW COOLENT FROM THE RESERVOIR TO REFILL THE SYSTEM.
YOU WILL NOTICE THE LEVEL DROP IN THE RESERVOIR.