Am well underway to getting this amp built now and am hoping to have it finished within the next few weeks.

I decided on a hammond 260m power transformer which is capable of 250mA to the B+ so should be more than ample for stereo kt88's For the output transformers i decided on james 6123hs and bought a matching james choke. Unfortunately the hammond was part of the "ugly" range of power tx's but hopefully wont look too bad come the end.

I can thouroughly recommend thlaudio for ordering components, its a bit of a pain ordering but prices, delivery and communication were very good.

I wanted the top mounting plate made from polished stainless, but i have little patience when it comes to cutting holes into 6mm steel so decided to get the thing laser cut

I drew the plate up in solidworks and then sent it off to be cut, now its back im very happy with the finish, the reflection is absolutely 100% and the reflection of the components can be seen perfectly.

For the base I am going to use a product called avonite, its a kind of fake granity looking resin. With the stainless resting on top of this the look is incredible - will try and find a camera later on today

Now going to start the electronics and get the mounting plate finished off and start assembling

Great looking project so far! I heartily approve of your choice of the James OPTs. They are what I used on my monoblocks and they sound great (they look great also).

You should definitely have enough current capability with your PTX as well. I have my KT88s biased at 82mA and the 6N1Ps draw about 8mA (each triode, though I'm using two separate tubes of course due to the monoblock configuration).

I used 1/8" 6061 aluminum for my top plates and found it relatively easy to drill the holes. Stainless is a whole other animal!

I like the base! I have a big piece of Corian laying around that I've thought of using as a base. After seeing your mockup I may pull it out and have a go.

For my amps I built a wooden base from maple and walnut dovetailed together. Also with a rebate around the top so the top plate sits flush.

I see you are also going with tube rectification, looks like a 5U4-G? If so be careful of the input cap in the filter, 40uF max in that position. (You may already be aware of this but I had to buy new caps, I had not paid enough attention to the datasheet and originally purchased 60uF for that position. )

Also my cheap Chinese 5U4-G tubes arced a bit on power up. No adverse affects that I could see but it was disconcerting so I changed them for Sovteks and the problem went away. I used the Chinese tubes in a lower current, lower voltage, lower value input cap EL84 amp and they have performed well for almost 2 years. Recently I put one in one of the KT88 monoblocks and it worked perfectly, no arcing, just a nice even warmup. Maybe they needed a break-in period?