How To Make A Shirt

Aldijana.Draganovic

How To Make A Shirt

Aldijana.Draganovic

Shirt Block

Using a size 10 block for the front; back and sleeve, Move the shoulder dart by pivoting 5cm below the armhole and closing the shoulder dart to make the yolk which is Cut On Fold. The top front sleeve remove 2cm and off the neckline remove 1cm. Back block remove the darts and on the shoulder add 2cm on. Sleeve bottom of the sleeve remove 1cm off each side then mark 5cm along the sleeve and mark up 5cm and make a line; measure 2.5 cm mark then 1cm and do that 2 more times along the sleeve. From were you removed 1cm on each side mark down 5 cm along 22cm and 8cm for the cuff. Mark all the notches and darts. When you marked it all down you can finally re-trace around them on a new sheet of paper and add a cm seam allowance on all the pieces seperately the cuff sleeve front block; back block; collar. Before cutting out onto Fabric steam iron so the fabric shrinks a little bit and place the pieces close together as possible so you don't waste no fabric. Also interfacing cut out for the collar; cuff and a strip for the right side of the front body down the longer side. and fuse the interfacing and pieces together.

Darts

Match the notches on the bust dart and machine stitch back tacking. Once stitched steam press to the centrefront.
Body dart pin down matching the lines carfully and machine stitch back tacking also steam press towards the centrefront. Do the same for the Back match the notches up and Machine stitch the darts steam pressing to centreback.

Yolk

On the Yolk machine stitch the darts in and iron to centreback. pin wrong side of the yolk to right side of the back and pin then stitch a cm seam allowance. Top of the yolk fold 1cm and steam press to hold in place. With the front and back match the shoulders together and stitch 1cm away back tacking then with the yolk pin on top and stitch a foot space away a cm away.

Shoulder

What the yolk and front of the body should look like once stitched together neatly and steam pressed.

Darts

Match the notches on the bust dart and machine stitch back tacking. Once stitched steam press to the centrefront.
Body dart pin down matching the lines carfully and machine stitch back tacking also steam press towards the centrefront. Do the same for the Back match the notches up and Machine stitch the darts steam pressing to centreback.

Yolk

On the Yolk machine stitch the darts in and iron to centreback. pin wrong side of the yolk to right side of the back and pin then stitch a cm seam allowance. Top of the yolk fold 1cm and steam press to hold in place. With the front and back match the shoulders together and stitch 1cm away back tacking then with the yolk pin on top and stitch a foot space away a cm away.

Shoulder

What the yolk and front of the body should look like once stitched together neatly and steam pressed.

Shoulder

What the inside of the shoulder should look like when you stitch the yolk, back and front together.

Front Shirt

how it should look with the darts and the back attatched

Back Shirt

Shoulder

What the inside of the shoulder should look like when you stitch the yolk, back and front together.

Front Shirt

how it should look with the darts and the back attatched

Back Shirt

Collar

pin wrong way round long sides together stitch along the sides and long part of the collar stitch 1cm away. When stitched trim off any excess fabric off the edges using a point presser open the collar seams and steam press. Steam press with the interfacing is on the top roll the edges abit so it goes over the non interfaced side then top stitch a foot space away.

Collar stand without interfacing pin from the inside leave a cm on each side loose when stitching nice and flat make sure there is no creases. Once the collar and collar stand is done fold in half and mark the centre same as the actual shirt fold and find the centre and mark the stand with interfacng place on the other side of collar folded edges has to match and follow the curve around. Edge stitch the band all the way around start from the middle and go around.

Sleeves

Sleeves pair and put an "X" on the wrong side; continues strip on the slit right side of the strip to wrong side of fabric. Strip sits underneath stitch a foot space away when ironing press strip into the seam fold over to sit on the edge and press, once folded and pressed edge stitch right side down all top stitching is done on the right side for a near finish.

Right sides together and stitch at an angle all the stitching is done on the strip. Tucks should be marked in and should be folded towards the strip, match the notches fold and pin down stitch a foot space along the bottom to hold the pleats in and don't back tack.

Right sides or the sleeve together and stitch a cm all the way to the bottom of the sleeve and overlock on the front side.

Next sleeve edge-capping wrong side small piece turn abit over and stitch as narrow as possible and repeat again. sew the rectangular piece on the wrong side of the main sleeve not the small piece stitch just passed the cut a foot space away back tacking. Turn the sleeve over slit to the end of the stitch line using a small pair of scissors and snip a little pull the placket away and steam press.

Bring placket through the right side give it a press roll over half a centremetre the top placket fold and the long side also fold a cm and press then fold again in half press again. along the edges place pins to hold and edge stitch all the way around till you get to the top of the cut and stop.

Matching the notches together and sewing along

Continues strip

Matching the notches together and sewing along

Continues strip

Cuffs & Sleeve

Fold over to the interfacing 1cm and stitch a foot away place on the edge of sleeve a cm over pleats should be sewn in and go around the sleeve you should have a cm excess fabric on each side stitch from the very end a cm space wrong side of cuff looking at you and right side of the sleeve facing you. Do the same to the other cuff aswell then fold over the cuffs inside out stitch along the sides snip off any excess fabric using a point presser open the seams and turn inside out and edge stitch.

Put your machine on the largest stitch make a stitch around the top edge of your sleeve and repeat it making the second stitch as close to the first as possible. Put your machine back to the stitch number it was before pin the sleeve to the main body making sure the seams match top notches also match pull the threads of the sleeve to gather up if needed and when you stitch a cm along use a pin to flatten it out so it is not gathered.

Overlocking from the inside you must always keep an eye no fabric on the outside gets caught into the machine there will be creases showing which you can easily iron out. Overlock the bottom unfold the button stand and stitch a cm along the piece you unfolded turn up a cm and stitch along follow the curves because the shirt is not straight. Button hole measure 5cm inbetween each of them and the cuffs aswell and use a machine to cut the hole for you and just hand stitch the buttons on.