Kawah Ijen: a lethal beauty

by James on February 22, 2016

The hike to Kawah Ijen begins with a struggle. It is most likely the sulphurous fumes rising from the depths of the volcano, combined with the effects of little sleep. Bama tells me he doesn’t feel well – he is gripped by nausea. We limp along a trail of volcanic ash, taking refuge on the gnarled, low-slung branches and tree stumps beside the route.

All this time I am wondering if we should give up and turn back, but Bama refuses. When the trail mercifully levels out, I stop to fix my eyes upon the heavens, admiring the multitude of stars that fill the midnight sky. I recite several lines from a psalm and say a prayer for my companion.

On the crater rim, we bundle ourselves against the cold and wait for the sunrise. From our perch I can make out the darkened mass of Kawah Ijen’s highly acidic lake – the largest in the world – and surreal wisps of blue flame far below. Many of our fellow hikers venture down into the crater for a closer look, but it is a risk that Bama and I are not willing to take.

Kawah Ijen has gained some notoriety as a hazardous workplace for nearly 300 local men. With wet scarves as their only protection against the clouds of caustic gas, they harvest the crater’s precious sulphur both day and night. In its molten form, the material pours out from a series of pipes connected to an active vent above the lake. Once the sulphur cools and hardens it is then broken into chunks, loaded into baskets and carried down the mountain to a factory.

The sulphur miners come twice a day, slinging 70-90 kilos across their shoulders on each trip for a pittance – every 10 kilos will get them 10,000 rupiah (74 cents US) at the factory, where the sulphur is melted again. For extra income, some miners pour the liquid sulphur into moulds, creating pale yellow turtles and other souvenirs for the stream of tourists who come to the crater.

It is a sobering thought – that we are here by choice while the local miners eke out a living. We are on holiday; they endure backbreaking work that will shorten their lifespan and possibly kill them. The world, as one fellow blogger recently put it, is both a beautiful and terrible place. ◊

I guess I walked too fast that morning, sorry for that and thanks for the prayer! I’m glad that we did see the blue fire, even though we were high up on the crater rim. But the most memorable experience of the hike was seeing Mt Raung erupting.

Seems that worldwide (and throughout history) the people who physically work the hardest earn the smallest amount of money. A sad but true statement about humanity. Excellent post.
Thanks also for steering us to the Compass and Camera blog, another informative blog full of super photos and wise words.

You are right, Marilyn – and it speaks to the unfairness of human society as a whole. We are so privileged to have access to good education and many opportunities for work.
It has been an eye-opening experience to follow Kelly at Compass and Camera over the past year or so. I especially enjoyed reading her posts on less-visited countries like Oman and Bhutan.

I completely agree – it is as though they are ‘living mountains’.
Seeing the miners’ harsh working conditions makes me wonder if there is some way to get them out of the crater and into a better place that will earn them more money.

You seem to have a knack for encountering forest fires in Indonesia – first Ijen and then Rinjani? 😉

That is an interesting question. They must think we tourists are crazy for going to the sulphur mine and taking pictures. I saw someone on the crater rim doing what you did… he seemed fit and strong but clearly the load was a lot heavier than it looked!

Kelly is absolutely right of course – the world is both a beautiful and terrible place. This post was both heartbreaking and uplifting at the same time – the plight of the miners, and the beauty of the area. Where is it ? Indonesia?
Alison

Ah yes, I forgot to mention that in the text – you’ll find this place in Indonesia, near the eastern end of Java. Bali is just a short ferry ride from the nearest town (Banyuwangi). We saw people of all ages hiking… you and Don are in good shape so you could go the next time you’re in Bali.
James

70-90 kilos!!?? Really? How big are those guys? I have a hard time with a 30 kilo backpack. And it smells better. I truly love the shot of the volcano smoking in the distance. And the first shot of Ijen (how do you pronounce that anyway…I-yen?). And I too, loved Kelly’s line from that post.

That’s amazing. But I have always said nothing is impossible. In fact, I’m writing the second half of a story I posted the first half to, and in the 2nd, I say something just like that…after seeing my gelded horse mount a mare.

The guys were not big at all – and one we passed on the way down looked over 50. That was my first sight of an erupting volcano so I ended up taking way too many photos! Oh, Ijen is just pronounced “E-jen”, very simple. Indonesian is a lot easier to read now that the Dutch spelling system is no longer in use. Otherwise Uluwatu in Bali would still be “Oeloewatoe”.

This is fascinating, James. Your words and photos are equally beautiful. I’ve never seen chunks of sulphur before, nor did I know that it’s mined in a place very close to Bali. What a treacherous way to make a living. Thanks for the link/credit to my blog. ~Kelly

You’re welcome, Kelly. It was humbling to see the miners plodding down the mountain with their baskets of sulphur – we have it so easy compared to what they go through on a daily basis. The quote from your tribute to Asia summed up my feelings perfectly.
James

I once climbed a different volcano in Java, and like you, the combo of waking up well before dawn and the sulfuric fumes (additionally I woke up awfully congested) made the trek up a grueling experience, and feeling so unwell made it difficult to fully take in the surrounding beauty. But still a great experience! Your photos are wonderful; I love the mix of yellow sulfur and turquoise lake.

Thanks! That sounds pretty crazy – I might have given up had I been in the same position! Was it Semeru or Merapi? I haven’t climbed either of those volcanoes, but people say they’re both a real challenge.

Looks to be an incredible trip ~ I always wonder in a situation like this, where one travels as a tourist and can come across something so impressive, intriguing but yet notice the people who live there and make a living in less than ideal conditions. As you say, it is a sobering thought and it shows empathy – and interacting within this culture/area is the best respect you can give. You do travel very well James, great post.

Thank you so much, Randall. When you do get to Ijen (I have a feeling it is only a matter of time) you will no doubt return with a series of arresting portraits. Words can stir empathy, but pictures that draw us into the eyes of another human being still do the best job.

“Words can stir empathy, but pictures that draw us into the eyes of another human being ” ~ Those are some pretty powerful words right there I think no photo could duplicate 🙂 Look forward to the day when I do get to Ijen. 🙂