Quick Links

To create sleeves, start with the same width tube as before and the same cowling process (see the facing page). Measure off the same distance on each side between front and back drape when pinning to create the cowl (left); the amount is your choice. Place well-spaced button-covered pins down each upper arm to create sleeves (center); then carefully arrange the excess at each side into wide box pleats, with the folds equally distributed front and back (right). A belt holds everything in place. A one-shoulder drape was recorded only in images of Amazon women, but it's hard to believe no Grecian beauty ever tried it. The rectangle needs to be body length and twice the body width plus twice the desired drape width. In this case, 4S-in.-wide fabric was adequate to wrap the model, so the selvages run up and down (left). One shoulder pin holds the fabric up, and a few pins or stitches hold the side closed to whatever width suits you. To add a belt, make slits or buttonholes through the drape at the waist, and insert your cording (right). Let's try it Working with the basic rectangle in the traditional way is fairly simple. First choose your fabric. You will need something that drapes well and has some heft to it. Among the many possibilities are rayon challis, tissue faille, or lightweight twill; silk broadcloth, charmeuse, or twill; and washed rayon or silk. Be- ware of finely woven silks or any other fabrics that pin-mark easily, because these garments are pinned together at the shoulder. If you use those fabrics, always pin in the same place; if you'd like to use the same rectangle for several design variations, then choose a looser woven fabric that won't pin-mark. Next you'll need an assortment of pins. The basic garment is pinned at the shoulders with matching pins. These can be purchased or made of buttons, handmade flowers and leaves, or odd pieces of metal, as in my collection shown on the faCing page. For one-shoulder deSigns, look through your collection of vintage brooches for striking pieces. If you want to pin the december 19 99 /j an uary 2000 55