European Culture - 15th Century

Fifteenth-Century Clothing

The fifteenth century saw transformations in the nature of costume and
culture that are key to our understanding of Western fashion. Up until the
fifteenth century, the clothing customs of most cultures had been
determined by tradition, the availability of certain kinds of fabric, and
the skill of the tailor. Ancient Egyptians wore similar clothing for
nearly thirty centuries, for example, and the long wool garments worn by
Europeans in the sixth century were not that different from those worn in
the fourteenth century.

During the fifteenth century, however, the nature of European costume
began to emphasize fashion, the current style or custom of dress.

In the late Middle Ages (c. 500–c. 1500), only the wealthiest
members of a royal court had the resources to regularly change their
costume and accessories. But during the early years of the Renaissance, or
cultural rebirth, which started in the fifteenth century, more and more
people began to acquire the wealth that allowed them to dress more
extravagantly and keep up with the newly popular styles. In Burgundy, a
kingdom in present-day France, and in Italian states such as Florence,
greater numbers of wealthy merchants, nobles, and others competed to wear
the most striking and elegant clothes. Certain people, such as Philip III
(1396–1467), duke of Burgundy, who ruled from 1419 to 1467, became
trendsetters, people who introduced a fashion that others followed. The
clothing styles and customs that were introduced in Italy and Burgundy
began to spread and by the end of the century, the emphasis on fashion and
the wealth that was required to pursue fashion had stretched throughout
Europe.

Costume of the early fifteenth century

The clothing of the early fifteenth century continued the traditions
from the late Middle Ages. Both men and women continued to wear the
houppelande, a long gown that covered the body from the neck to the
floor. Houppelandes were made in a variety of fabrics, from simple wool
to rich silk and velvet. Women's houppelandes were increasingly
tailored so that the gown fit closely across the upper body, while the
skirt billowed outward. Women also wore the bliaut, another long gown.
Increasingly men choose to wear hose and breeches on their legs, and a
tunic or a pourpoint (a closely fitted, padded overshirt) on their upper
body. The pourpoint evolved in the fifteenth century into the doublet,
the most common male garment of the century. Both men and women also
wore a variety of overgarments, including a light cape called a mantle,
and the cote and cotehardie, similar to the ones worn in the Middle
Ages.

The costume revolution of the late fifteenth century

Several important trends came together in the late fifteenth century to
mark a real change in costume styles across Europe. The first, mentioned
earlier, was the general rise in wealth across the continent.
Increased political stability and expanding trade meant that more
people in the growing European cities could afford the finer things in
life, notably clothing. The growing wealth allowed people to wear a
variety of different fabrics, including silk, taffeta, and velvet, along
with the traditional cotton, wool, and linen. Some of the wealthiest
industries in early Europe grew out of the production of textiles, or
fabrics.

This general increase in wealth allowed the tastes and preferences of
the wealthy in Italy and Burgundy to spread across Europe. Following
these trends, men wore more closely fitting hose and doublets. Their
doublets, which had once been buttoned to the neck, opened to an
ever-deeper V neck, with long laces crossing the V and revealing a shirt
beneath, usually made of white linen. Men's hose were sewn
together at the genital area, and we see the first use of the codpiece,
a padded covering for the genitals. At the end of the century, padding
in men's clothes created the appearance of broad shoulders.

Women's clothing also saw changes late in the century. Gone was
the bunching of fabric in front of the stomach, which had created a
pregnant look, and the billowing sleeves. Women's gowns became
much more closely fitted in the torso and arms, while skirts billowed
outward. Beginning in 1468 women in Spain began to use round hoops worn
inside their skirts to give the skirt shape and make it swish when they
walked. These hoops, called farthingales, would be very popular in the
sixteenth century.

Increasing wealth and a desire on the part of people to use dress as a
marker of status led to the relatively swift changes in clothing styles
that we know today as fashion. In fact, one of the first fashion crazes
began in 1477 when Swiss soldiers introduced a trend called slashing, in
which small cuts were made in an outer garment to reveal the rich fabric
beneath. Soon this style was copied throughout Europe and used on all
varieties of garments.

The trends that began in the fifteenth century truly became widespread
in the sixteenth century, when all of Europe flowered during the period
known as the Renaissance.