Sandwiched between Vietnam and Thailand, two culinary giants, the cuisine of Cambodia is largely a forgotten stepchild.

It is not as spicy as Thai food and not as well known as Vietnamese cuisine. There may be a Thai restaurant or a Vietnamese pho place in your local strip mall, but you have to do a little digging to find a spot with Cambodian fare.

This small country draws its culinary influences from China and India, as well as Thailand and Vietnam. The French ruled the country for more than six decades, and a crispy baguette is a common sight in the many open-air markets.

We have always avoided the more exotic Cambodian delicacies such as garlic-fried spiders, but there are a couple of staples that are easy to make and very delicious.

In the middle of Cambodia is the Tonle Sap, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. The lake expands and contracts with the seasons, and the fish that are caught there are a vital food source for the entire nation. So it stands to reason that one of the nation’s most well known dishes is Fish Amok (or Amok Trey). This consists of white fish covered in coconut milk and a mixture of spices, called Kroeung. The dish is steamed in a banana leaf.

For most Cambodians, fish is more common than beef or poultry.

Emerald-green rice fields are abundant in Cambodia. Some studies suggest that 70 percent of the caloric intake for a typical rural Cambodian comes from rice.
Cris Peterson

Emerald-green rice fields are abundant in Cambodia. Some studies suggest that 70 percent of the caloric intake for a typical rural Cambodian comes from rice.

As in most Asian nations, rice is abundant. There is no more beautiful sight than an emerald-green rice field swaying in the breeze, and the pristine paddies are everywhere in Cambodia. Some studies suggest that 70 percent of the caloric intake for a typical rural Cambodian comes from rice. Bai Sach Chrouk is the Cambodian version of fried rice with pork — consider it Cambodian street food.

Cambodians use many spices: cardamom, lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, turmeric, but pepper is king. Specifically, Kampot pepper from the far southwest near the Vietnam border.

I first tasted organically grown Kampot pepper about four years ago when touring a pepper farm in Kampot Province, Cambodia. The weathered farmer held out his hand and offered a taste of his prized peppercorns, and I was hooked. So enamored, in fact, my husband and I started selling Kampot pepper in the United States through our not-for-profit business the Pepper Project (pepperproject .org).

Flavorful, pungent and spicy, Kampot pepper is valued throughout Cambodia and is becoming the pepper of choice for gourmets worldwide. We have become addicted at our house. We rarely cook a meal without adding a little Kampot pepper to spice things up.

Kathy Taing fled Cambodia in 1980 to escape the slaughter of the nation’s civil war. She made her way to the United States, and, along with her husband Khieng Taing, they operate Trieu Chau restaurant at 4653 University Ave. in City Heights. They have been going strong since 1982, serving up various Southeast Asian cuisines.

Among the Cambodian specialties they offer are Lemongrass Chicken, Basil Chicken, flank steak and noodles.

“Cambodians use a lot of herbs and spices like lemon grass, lemon leaves and pepper,” Kathy Taing says. “It’s pretty much like Thai food, but not as spicy.”

Her most popular dish is Cambodian noodles, a stir fry with noodles, eggs and sweet soy sauce. She guards the recipe: “We want people coming back here for the noodles.”

“Cambodian food is very healthy,” says Taing, “because they don’t deep fry things. They stir-fry. They use many fresh ingredients and a lot of vegetables.”

In Cambodia, Prahok, a paste made from fermented fish, is an everyday ingredient for many dishes. For Western tastes, let’s just say it takes some getting used to. Says Taing: “We don’t use the stinky fish here.”

Kroeung is a paste that is cooked with pork, chicken or beef as well as fish. It’s an explosion of flavors probably more suited to American tastes than Prahok. Typically, Kroeung is made of garlic, lemon grass, pepper, lime leaves, turmeric, salt, sugar, a hot pepper and water. As the water cooks away, the spices adhere to the bite-sized pieces of meat. Stir-fry in some bell peppers and onion and you are ready to go.

Meric means pepper in the Khmer language, and Tuk Meric is a simple dipping sauce made from lime juice, Kampot pepper, sea salt, sugar and red pepper flakes. It is a lively sauce to accompany fish or poultry.

Taing says you can get most of the ingredients for Cambodian dishes at 99 Ranch Market, 7330 Clairemont Mesa Blvd. in San Diego (Kearney-Mesa area), although most other Asian markets should have what you need.

The following are a few recipes that are simple, flavorful and suited to American tastes.

In a bowl, combine sugar, Kampot pepper, soy sauce, garlic, red pepper flakes, and half the lime juice. Stir well and add beef. Marinate for at least one hour.

In a skillet or wok, sauté beef in hot oil. Cook steak to desired doneness.

Add fish sauce and remaining lime juice to the beef and mix well.

Serve over a bed of lettuce leaves and sliced onions. The hot meat will cook the onions.

Tuk Meric

2 teaspoons black Kampot pepper

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Red pepper flakes to taste

Juice of 1 or 2 limes

Mix all ingredients together.

Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Use as a dipping sauce for meat, poultry or fish.

Fish sauce

Fish sauce is made from fermented fish, but that is no reason to be afraid of it. It’s huge in Asian cooking, and chefs everywhere are using it these days. Fish sauce is available at most supermarkets and at all Asian markets. Red Boat is a premium brand.