San Francisco police pulled the plug on World Cup parties in several Richmond District bars early Friday, minutes after the 4:30 a.m. start of the U.S.-Germany quarterfinals match.

The barkeeps' crime? Throwing open their doors and serving coffee without a "cabaret" permit.

"It's ridiculous," said Erin Freer, a 25-year-old bartender who, with 80 other fans, was turned out of Abby Tavern at Fifth Avenue and Geary Boulevard about 15 minutes into the game. "The police are there to protect us. They shouldn't be wasting their time trying to get people in trouble."

Many San Francisco bars have been staying open to show games throughout the World Cup tournament without a peep of protest from police.

But Friday, when crowds flooded bars to watch America's first appearance in a quarterfinals game in 72 years, the vice cops stepped in and asked several bars to produce an after-hours permit, allowing them to stay open past 2 a.m.

"We're not the grinches who stole the World Cup," said Capt. Marsha Ashe, who works in the Richmond police station. "But they failed to cooperate with the police."

POLICE OFFICERS WERE WATCHING

Bar owners say the police have known what they are doing all along and never even hinted they needed a permit, especially since the celebrations were alcohol-free. There were even police officers in the crowd watching the game.

That's why, they say, they were taken off guard Friday.

"The game was on for about 10 or 15 minutes, and they made us put everyone out. It's terrible, especially with the U.S. playing," said Brendan Daly, co- owner of Irelands 32 on Geary Boulevard, where 100 people had gathered to watch the game.

"We weren't even charging," Daly said. "We were just giving out coffee."

OWNER CITED

One bar owner was cited by police. According to police reports, at 4:32 a.m.

an officer stopped by O'Rourke's bar on Clement Street to make a permit check where she found "40-50 patrons inside the bar watching television and consuming nonalcoholic beverages."

Police asked the bar's owner, 24-year-old Emma O'Rourke, whether she had an after-hours permit for the event. O'Rourke argued she didn't need one because it was a private party. She refused to close.

Police, who said O'Rourke strongly protested with "colorful" language, cited her for keeping a bar open after hours and resisting arrest.

Disappointed fans have deluged the Police Department with complaints, including the criticism that a department that ranks dead last among the nation's 20 largest cities in solving violent crimes would go to such effort to crack down on soccer freaks.

And yes, conceded police spokesman Sherman Ackerson, "This is not the crime of the century."

But, he said, "The law is really simple. At 2 a.m. the bars have to be closed, period. True, it's a very special occasion, but the owner could have filed for a cabaret permit ahead of time."

LONG LEAD TIME FOR PERMIT

Way ahead of time. Police say it takes 30 to 45 days to get a cabaret permit.

Ashe said the police action was prompted in part by neighbors' noise complaints. "We cannot in good faith to our public ignore these types of activity," she said.

"We won't be showing any of the games," lamented one bar owner. "We're finished."