Shanghai Business Travel Guide

Hailed during the 1930s as the "Pearl of the Orient" — one of its repeatable nicknames — Shanghai is experiencing
a renaissance worthy of its pre-WWII heyday. Despite decades
of shouldering the deadening weight of Communist rule,
this city never lost its vitality. Yes, it may have been
dormant for a while, but when the party ended, so to speak,
it quickly returned to life. It now simmers with a buzzing,
21st-century energy, from its traditional Chinese District
and elegant French Concession to its dignified Bund, a
waterfront lined with regal, British-style buildings.
It also added a new act to its repertoire: the Pudong
District with its free-trade zone. Located across the
Huangpu River on what was recently a sprawl of shanties,
this area is concrete evidence of Shanghai's business
boom, as is the city's selection as the site for the 2010
World Expo. From industry and e-commerce to finance and
manufacturing (clothing and cars, the latter for the local
market), Shanghai is racing to catch up with Hong
Kong and Singapore.
At the rate it's going, we're sure it will soon arrive.

Facts
to Know Before You Go

Currency:
Yuan

Commonly
known as yuan, the renminbi (RMB) is pegged to U.S.
currency at ¥6.53 per dollar. Yuan is available
in bills valued from two to 1,000; one yuan can
be divided into 10 jiao and 100 fen. Because RMB
is not a hard currency, you cannot obtain it before
arriving in China
unless you are coming through Hong Kong — except if you’re from Canada, where you can buy RMB
at Canadian banks. You can exchange money upon arrival
at Pudong International Airport (there are exchange
counters and ATMs), as well as at most Bank of China
branches and the front desk of major hotels in the
city. ATMs can also be found around the city, but
they are not as plentiful as they are in many other
major metropolises. Because of strict currency regulations
(foreign currency is not allowed to circulate in
China), it is recommended to use an official outlet
when changing money. RMB cannot be changed back
into foreign currency, except at banks in Hong Kong,
so exchange only what you think you'll need.

Transportation:

Although
Shanghai has two international airports — Pudong
and Hongquio — only Pudong is used primarily
for international flights. The older Hongquio caters
mainly to domestic traffic. Once you arrive, transportation
options are numerous: bus, subway, light rail and
taxi. Since public transportation is often jam-packed,
as well as circuitous and limited in its choice
of destinations, taxis are your best bet. Avoid
the taxi touts that wait outside the airport and
instead hire a metered taxi from the line-up; the
rate should be approximately $20 from Pudong to
the downtown area. Of the most honest and efficient
taxi companies in town, Da Zhong (turquoise) is
ranked first, followed by Qiang Sheng (yellow) and
Jin Jiang (blue). Carry small bills to pay your
fare or pick up a taxi card at a ticket counter
in a subway station. Also, most drivers don't speak
or read English, so carry the address of your destination
and the address of your hotel in Chinese characters.

Information:

The
South
China Morning Post published out of Hong
Kong is the region’s major newspaper, offering
international coverage with an emphasis on China.
For more localized news, check out the Shanghai
Daily, which also has a Saturday arts
and entertainment section. Additional sources for
finding out what's going on around town are City
Weekend, Shanghai Talk and Metrozine.

While not a mega-business hotel like the others on our
list, this tasteful property — featuring 53 executive
residences — is highly recommended if work brings
you to Shanghai. Located in the historic French Concession
in the bustling Xintiandi entertainment district, it
offers a soothing residential atmosphere. Accommodations
consist of dining areas, stylish kitchenettes (complete
with microwaves, refrigerators and utensils) and bedrooms
separated from living areas by gauzy curtains. Basic
amenities complement business extras such as in-room
fax machines, voice mail and broadband Internet. Although
rooms are more like small apartments, they come with
daily housekeeping, concierge and room service. There
is also a full complement of business services and an
Executive Lounge for breakfast, afternoon tea and evening
cocktails. The adjacent Alexander City Club has a lap
pool, massage pool, squash court and more.

Reliable Four Seasons service and style make this hotel
a solid choice for traveling executives. Its European
ambience is reminiscent of the city's grand old hotels,
but its facilities are pure 21st century. The 439 guestrooms,
including 79 suites, are striking and well-equipped
with high-speed Internet access, laptop safes, multi-line
phones, speakerphones and voice mail. Complimentary
amenities in the Executive Club Lounge on the 37th floor
include breakfast buffet, cocktails, all-day refreshments,
pressing, local phone calls, dedicated business and
concierge services, and use of a boardroom. Included
among the 13,778 square-feet of meeting space (equipped
with Wi-Fi access) is an opulent Grand Ballroom; there’s
also a full business center. The indoor pool is paired
with a beautiful landscaped rooftop garden. The luxurious
spa
features Balinese masseurs who are considered the best
in Asia. The elegant Si Ji Xuan restaurant serves traditional
Cantonese cuisine combined with Shanghaiese favorites
in a refined atmosphere. Both traditional and modern
dim sum is served at lunch along with other Cantonese
delicacies, and at night it’s a seafood
restaurant.

Magnificent views set this hotel apart, although if
you’re afraid of heights this is definitely not
the place for you — it’s located on the 53rd
to 87th floors of Jin Mao Tower. The atrium soars 33
stories high, and the décor gives more than just
a nod to the Art Deco movement. Claiming to be the most
spacious in Shanghai, the 555 guest rooms and suites
are contemporary in style with Asian touches and, naturally, amazing
views. They feature two-line phones, voice mail, broadband
and high-speed Internet access and interactive TVs with
email, Internet and remote keyboards. The Grand Club,
which comprises seven stories, offers business extras
such as complimentary boardroom use. The business center
is open 24 hours, and three floors of flexible meeting
space can cater groups up to 1,200. Of note: the collection
of international buffets on the 54th floor, and the
87th-floor Cloud 9 for cocktails.

Well-known for its excellent business amenities, this
hotel is a favorite with more conservative business
travelers. Old school offerings such as the cigars (there's
a walk-in humidor with private lockers) and malt whiskeys
in the bar have traditional appeal. The 578 guest rooms
and suites include Club Rooms on the 39th to 44th floors;
the latter enjoy their own lounge and five complimentary
food and beverage presentations daily. Two-room Executive
Suites enjoy access to the lounge, as well. Along with
meeting space for up to 500, the hotel features the
Sheng Rong Guo Ji luxury cruise boat for up to 250 — ideal,
and impressive, for private upscale events. Additional
facilities include a 24-hour business center, six restaurants,
a truly beautiful pool area and a health club with indoor
tennis, squash and racquetball courts.

Surrounded by the Bund's landmark buildings, this modern
hotel stands out — we're not sure how we feel about
its crown, which resembles the top of a pineapple,
but we do have to admit it's distinctive. Inside is
a tamer story, with tasteful décor that follows the Westin's signature style. The 301 guest rooms
and suites are furnished with all the basics; for more
business-oriented amenities, check into a Westin Executive
Club Level Room. The 1,410-square-meters of meeting
space are comprised of the Diamond Ballroom (capacity:
up to 800 for a reception) and twelve function rooms,
including a boardroom. A full business center and Wi-Fi
are available. For relaxation there’s a fitness
center, an Asian-style spa and a contemporary and light-filled
indoor pool area.

Situated
on the Pudong side of Shanghai in Lujiazui finance and
trade zone, the ultra-luxurious Shangri-La is a perfect
location for business travelers. The 981 modern rooms
in two 28-story towers feature floor-to-ceiling windows,
flat screen TVs, and marble bath facilities. Many rooms
overlook the Bund and the Huangpu River. Yi, the largest
of the hotel’s restaurants, features ten international
cuisine stations. The signature restaurant, Jade on
36, is an elegant, modern dining room and bar. The hotel
has large banqueting facilities and an always-open business
center. The award-winning holistic Chi spa is one of
the most beautiful and relaxing in China. You’ll
also enjoy an indoor swimming pool and tennis courts,
along with a well equipped gym. The executive floor
Horizon Club, which boasts breathtaking city views,
provides the many extra services that business travelers
require: Personal concierge, valets, breakfast and sumptuous
hors d’eouvres and drinks in the evening. The
hotel also offers Rolls
Royce transfers to and from the airport.

Where
to Dine

1221
1221 Yanan Xi Lu
86 21 6213-6585

$$$$$

One
of the first restaurants to capitalize on the city's turn-of-the-21st-century
expat invasion, 1221 has stood the test of time. Both
expats and locals remain loyal to its homey attitude,
vast menu of Shanghainese and classic cuisine and moderate
prices. The convivial, bustling atmosphere is reminiscent
of a traditional Chinese restaurant, without the fluorescent
lights and sensory overload. It’s well suited for
a casual business lunch or dinner.

Jean-Georges
Vongerichten's first eponymous restaurant outside New
York City, this venue blends Shanghai's romantic French
influences and urban Asian style. The dining room is imposing,
with its dark wood pillars and rich tones. In contrast,
the cuisine emphasizes simplicity — light French flavors
enhance organically grown local produce and fresh local
seafood. An excellent wine
cellar (over 5,000 bottles) and a hip, attractive clientele
make this the place for impressing on an expense account.

Founded
in 1979, this state-owned eatery is the real deal. Pay
no heed to the hordes of tourists. There's a reason they
line up with the locals here. In a word (or two): dim
sum. The three-story, faux Ming Dynasty restaurant
(complete with upturned eaves to deflect evil spirits)
resides in the Old Chinese City. Although not the hippest
spot in town, it's definitely worth a visit. Just ask
Castro, Queen Elizabeth II and Clinton — all have
raised their chopsticks here.

In
a city that has seen its fair share of revolutionary changes
over the past century, it's nice to know that some things
remain the same. Meilongzhen, established in 1938, is
considered an institution both by locals and in-the-know
travelers. Szechuan style influences the cuisine, providing
a variation on the typical Shanghainese dishes served
at many other upscale Chinese restaurants. Because the
dining room is divided into smaller, traditional Chinese-style
eating areas, it makes a good choice for a quiet business
meeting.

While
this isn't the place to go to seal a lucrative business
deal, you can sample the city’s authentic Chinese
dumplings here. Located in Yuyuan Bazaar in the Old Chinese
City, the shop has been drawing crowds for almost a century.
Locals line up at the downstairs counter for dumplings
to take away, but you can grab a seat upstairs and dine
in on buns stuffed with pork and crab meat. Fun facts:
dumplings originated in Nanxiang in Jia Ding District,
and Nanxiang Steamed Bun's popularity has turned it into
a brand name.

Full
of trendy young Shanghai sophisticates, this bustling
hot spot serving spicy Hunan and Sichuan food takes stylish
dining to a new level in Shanghai. Situated in an elegant
1930s-style mansion, the front features comfortable white
and beige banquettes for lounging and relaxing. The back
of the restaurant, the shimmering Glass House, has a more
traditional layout enhanced by 19 private dining rooms.
The elegantly presented and served cuisine is modern,
leading-edge Sichuan. Try the fiery dan dan noodles and
the tongue-numbing tofu. Fish and seafood preparations
are wonderful, but the most popular dish is beef cooked over hot
stones with a heat-defying sauce of garlic, chilies and
peanuts. Service is professional and helpful, but you’ll
want to ask for an English speaking waiter. There are
other South Beauty restaurants in Shanghai, but this is
the flagship property.

T8
is one of those restaurants responsible for bringing the
phrase "reservations required" to Shanghai.
It belongs to the mass of sleek new eateries in the Xintiandi
Entertainment District, and it is also arguably the most
popular. Aussie chef Patrick Dang crafts Western cuisine
with Asian influences, and the wine list showcases boutique
vintages. The kitchen is open, the décor dignified,
the clientele stylish and the menu worthy of both discriminating palates and expense accounts.

Three
on the Bund is the place to eat Chinese. It serves
serious, sophisticated modern Shanghai food in an Art
Deco atmosphere with Asian touches. Look for the chandelier
in the dining room that practically touches the floor!
Jerome Leung, the executive chef, is one of Asia’s
youngest master chefs. His contemporary Shanghaiese dishes
use the finest ingredients, and he applies his natural
talent and flair to make the old seem startling new. Specialties
include contemporary interpretations of drunken chicken
and stuffed crab claw with shrimp mousse, crab meat and
roe jelly. Shrimp, stir fried with the extraordinary
Long Jing tea, are delicate and light; his Shanghaiese
dumplings are among the best in town. The best way to
experience the complexity of his food is through the tasting
menus. Service is attentive, but attempting a few words
in Mandarin usually improves it.

Off
the Clock

Old
Chinese City

Planned entertainment developments are sprouting up all
over Shanghai, but this neighborhood—by far the
most entertaining of all—is as organic as they come.
Isolation during the years of French and British rule
helped the area maintain its traditional look and feel,
and today it offers a taste of ancient China. It's also
home to great shopping and dining. A cup of green
tea at the pagoda-style Huxin Ting Lake Teahouse is
a must, as is a browse through the fake (and occasionally
real) antiques at Fuyou Market. Most fun of all: wandering
the narrow back lanes for a glimpse of a world that time
forgot.

Jazz
& Blues

One
of the most fascinating things about Shanghai is its
longstanding love of jazz, which has remained strong
ever since it gained a foothold here in the 1930s. You
can hear cool jazz, smooth jazz, Dixieland jazz, improv
jazz … even jazz from the '30s and '40s played
by a band of musicians whose average age is older than
the Cultural Revolution. Although this group, which
plays at the Peace Hotel, is worth an evening out, aficionados
may also want to check out the Cotton Club, Club JZ
and CJW, which stands for Cigar/Jazz/Wine. The latter
sits atop a fifty-story building with 360-degree views;
it features fusion cuisine, vintages wines, Cuban cigars
and a house band.

Shanghai
Museum
201 Renmin Da Dao
86 21 6372-3500

When
walking the streets of Shanghai, it sometimes seems
as if the city has lost interest in its own history
beyond the 1930s. But this museum will make you think
otherwise. This monumental tribute to Chinese craftsmanship
boasts over 120,000 works in eleven galleries, which
focus on ancient bronzes, ceramics, calligraphy, jade,
Chinese seals and minority handicrafts. The museum is
well laid out for perusing, and it provides a hushed
respite from the crowds outside. When you're done, if
you still have the energy, cross the square to the Shanghai
Art Museum (a beautiful, 1930s Neoclassical landmark)
to gaze at some contemporary pieces, and to grab a bite
at Kathleen's 5 Rooftop Restaurant & Bar, overlooking
the square.

Although
this dining/shopping/art center may be a little too
urban for some, there's no denying that Three on the
Bund is upscale and that it represents the face of the
new Shanghai. The few shops it has are exclusive: two
by Armani among them. And the restaurants can be included
in the city's best, including Jean-Georges, the Whampoa
Club (with its dramatic modern take on Shanghai cuisine
and even more dramatic interior), and the intimate Cupola
in a former bell tower. There is also a classy barber,
Evian Day Spa, Shanghai Gallery of Art and Third Degree
music lounge. As for the seven-story building itself,
it's a beautiful historical property right on The Bund.

Xintiandi
Entertainment District

This is urban development as it should be — restorative,
respectful and fun. Formerly a tenement-like neighborhood,
this district is fashioned around (and in) a collection
of pretty stone Shikumen houses — an architectural
style found only in Shanghai. Gone is the laundry hanging
from the windows; now boutiques, cafés, restaurants
and clubs vie for the title of hippest locale. American
designers have done dynamic things inside these buildings,
and the maze of walk streets is lively and picturesque.
You can dine on French, Italian, Cuban and more, as
well as visit the First National Congress of the Communist
Party of China — the birthplace (now a kitschy museum) of
the Communist party, this structure anchors the district.
And no, the irony is not lost on us.

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