Preview The New Audrey Hepburn Anniversary Exhibition

Trends A to Z

IF it was a season of goodbyes - Raf Simons from Jil Sander and Stefano Pilati from Yves Saint Laurent - it was as much about returns and beginning again: Jil Sander to Jil Sander and Hedi Slimane to YSL where he was in charge of menswear more than a decade ago. But despite the rumblings of designer movements and the grumblings of those that disapprove of designers being cast as pawns in the higher echelons of fashion politics, it was also a celebratory season of brilliant designers doing what they do best even better than ever: Stella, Sarah Burton, Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Victoria Beckham, Phoebe Philo, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou - even Bill Gaytten is being heaped with praise for his work at <a href="http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/designer/christian-dior">Dior</a> and <a href="http://www.vogue.co.uk/search?q=keller">Claire Waight Keller</a>'s second go at <a href="http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/designer/chloe">Chloe</a> went down rather better than before. From the big guns to those newer to the game, it's clear that in spite of wrangling and recession, fashion continues to inspire and explode with ideas and the promise of success.

So how will all that play its way into your wardrobe next winter? Here's the A-to-Z checklist we promise every season so you're armed and ready when it comes to autumn/winter 2012-13, be it names to drop, accessories to covet or the colour to start injecting into your safe separates now to keep you on the cutting edge.

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In short, you can play safe with shapes - utilitarian, military-inspired and plenty covered up. But where that could be austere, next winter it will be played out in the richest and most ornate fabrics - velvet, jacquard, lace, damask, embellishment - so don't hold back. <a href="http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/designer/stella-mccartney">Stella McCartney</a>'s Team GB set up is leading a sportswear revolution too for those for whom brocade is a dirty word.

If you buy one thing, buy a hat - a big floppy one preferably. Bring out your best leathers and prepare them to take on a new season and, if you're feeling nostalgic a touch of glam rock will do no harm. If budgets are tight but you still want cutting edge statements, take <a href="http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/designer/stella-mccartney">Stella</a>'s lead and get back into bright blue mascara. Shoes? Mary Janes - wear them sparkly and wear them high. Add a skater skirt, a swathe of tweed, some Perspex heels and a pair of what we're now calling investment trousers (more of that in the A to Z) and layer up your look with trousers under a skirt under a coat with a cape on top. Oh, and wear your trousers a little shorter than before, as a rule.

D is for Dyed Hair: Prada brought the dip-dye trend back to great acclaim, Pringle, Meadham Kirchhoff, Haider Ackermann, and Jean Paul Gaultier all went for various shades of the rainbow (with glitter if required), plus a still blue-haired Katy Perry turned up on the front rows in Paris – is it us or have her style credentials improved since she dumped whatshisname?

E is for Entertainment: If you’re going to show, think of it as a party. Stella’s A-list magic show and flash mob in London; Alber’s birthday party in Paris to celebrate 10 years at Lanvin; McQ’s after party in the woods in London; Louis Vuitton’s train – they’re getting bigger and better and everybody wants to come even more than ever.

I is for Eyebrows: Just look at leading girl crush Cara Delevingne's untamed versions. And Chanel’s that were embellished by the Maison Lesage. Definitely one to remember – let them grow next season, and if you don’t, then accessorise them instead.

K is for Karlie Kloss: There were rumours of her taking New York, London and Milan off because she’s bagged a mega deal, even rumours that designers has been asked not to work with her because of her weight (not that we believe that: slim she may be – but she’s also the picture of glowing health). She was back on top by Paris Fashion Week and looking glorious. Follow her on Twitter - it’s real model stuff.

N is for Natty Prints – Miuccia Prada’s into multicoloured mosaic prints, Mary Katrantzou went for everything from cutlery to typewriter keys (which someone was already wearing top-to-toe on the front row of Chanel) - so do with this one what you will.

O is for Online: Record high traffic on VOGUE.CO.UK during February and March already and KCD launches its Digital Fashion Shows. Is fashion becoming more at home on the web? Plus the iPad3 launches on the last day of Paris Fashion Week – who won’t have one by next season?

Q is for Question Marks: Still no confirmation about Dior as the curtain went down on Paris Fashion Week. And where will Raf and Stefano be seen next? (Plus Alber Elbaz made Que Sera Sera his 10th anniversary celebration song which was apt).

X is for X men: Raf leaves Jil Sander and Stefano waves goodbye to YSL. Is it time for an overhaul of the men in your life? (but always remain friends – you never know when you might want to invite them back, after all). If you’re bored with the fashion job hunt, think XXXL coats – we first spotted Big Bird on the Fendi catwalk; then Anna Della Russo wore one on the front row at YSL and Alexander McQueen, Fendi, Pucci, Blumarine, Loewe, Giorgio Armani and Gareth Pugh followed suit with huge coats.