How to Use Your Measurements to Sew Great Fitting Clothes

By Julia Garza

If you’ve been sewing for yourself for any length of time, you know that sewing a garment
from a pattern straight out of the envelope is about as likely to fit as perfectly as grabbing a garment off the rack at the mall. You might get lucky, but more often than not, there will be some fit issues to contend with. Fortunately, there are many resources available on Bluprint to help you resolve any fit issues.

Petite and plus-size

Some body types are more prone to specific fit issues than others. Petite women (like me!), for one, will always struggle with length and proportions when using commercial patterns. One of the most important things to understand in regards to great fit for petites
is how to make adjustments without losing the lines of the garment.

Know your numbers

Regardless of whether you identify as a specific body type or not, you probably have an area or two that needs special attention when fitting a garment. The first step in this process is to take your measurements
. This can go a long way in helping you to account for more difficult fit issues and strategizing a fit plan. Depending on the adjustment needed, you have several options.

Make adjustments

The first is to alter the pattern
. This is a good option when you have a situation as I did when sewing my wrap dress. My waist and hip measurements fell into different sizes, but because of the style of the dress, I was able to easily and quickly alter the pattern by creating some small darts. This technique is covered in more detail in Fast Track Fitting with Joi Mahon, which discusses modifying flat pattern pieces.

Another option, which is better for garments with a more tailored fit, is to make a muslin
. Once you’ve fit the muslin, you can transfer the adjustments to your pattern before making the final garment (which should then be pretty close to fitting like a glove). For more detailed information on making and fitting a muslin, check out Sew the Perfect Fit with Lynda Maynard.

Finally, minor adjustments (like hems or a sleeve that’s just a hair too long), can usually be addressed after a garment has been constructed.

Addressing specific fit issues

Some areas require more attention than others, particularly if a garment is very tailored in that area. If your bust is not proportional to your hips (and it probably isn’t), you will need to make bust adjustments for most patterns. Adjust the Bust with Kathleen Cheetham addresses this issue and shows you how to adjust patterns for any bust size -- large or small.

Your torso can also be a tricky area too. Custom Fitting: Back, Neck and Shoulders with Kathleen Cheetham covers tailoring to your torso to achieve proper fit. Darts can definitely be your friend in this instance!

Do you have any specific tricks or resources you use when taking measurements or fitting garments? Be sure to share in the comments.

Pattern grading is an easy way to replicate a pattern to scale, saving you from having to draft the whole thing. It can be your go-to if you need to size an entire pattern up a smidge. (Though you shouldn't try to go more than two sizes up or down, as that would disrupt the balance of the pattern.) There are a couple different ways to pattern grade, but let's focus on two of the most common methods.

For kids who want to sew — but may not be ready for a sharp needle or complex sewing machine — this personalized piece of wall decor is a great starter project. Not only will they be proud to gift it or hang it in their room, but working the stitches helps them practice an even, repeating pattern that builds fine motor skills. It's a win all around!

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Given all the uncertainty swirling about COVID-19, there's a lot of desire to help. While the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention say staying home, washing your hands and practicing social distancing are some of the best things to do at this time, they're also encouraging everyone wear a cloth face cover when out in public.

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Selvages run the entire length of a fabric bolt, and many people consider them to be garbage, cutting them off and throwing away without a second thought. But this finished end of your fabric can be handy in a project. After all, it's so tightly woven you don't have to worry about fraying. Here are some tips for putting 'em to good use.

Picture this: you go to the fabric store, pick out the perfect materials for your next project, and come home only to realize that — doh — you already have great fabric you could have used tucked away in a forgotten corner of your sewing room.

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Getting the fit just right is one of the most challenging parts of sewing clothes, mostly because the process isn't a singular step. Rather, it begins before the first pattern piece is even cut, and continues throughout your sewing.