Mercury Cougar Engine Questions

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I have a 2002 Cougar that seems to be having the same problem. Chugging, engine light flashing or staying on. It was very minimal starting out but has since gotten much worse. Brought it to a mechanic who first thought there was a misfire in cylinder 3 but after fixing that, the problem continued. Now it is believed to be the camshaft. Getting this fixed tonight hopefully! If you have found another solution/problem, please let me know!

Well, it seems like you are jumping the gun a little bit. You should post your question, wait for a series of answers then go about fixing it. You shouldn't just go to a mechanic, let him diagnose and then immediately tell him to start fixing stuff. They love when people do that because when it doesn't fix the problem, you're stuck paying for something that didn't resolve the issue.

You have added some description of your problem (Chugging, engine light flashing/staying on), but that still is pretty vague.... can you describe more?

Our 1999 Cougar was "bucking" hard! but only after driving normally for a good 10 minutes or so, and it really felt like a bad transmission (which I had already ostensibly rebuilt twice). It turns out I only needed to replace a $45 Sensor, I think it was the Neutral Safety Switch or Manual Lever Position Sensor. The dealer wanted to charge me $150 to replace this, but I did it myself in the driveway in about an hour. FREE, and is totally solved the problem.

Well I haven't had to pay for anything....yet... I brought it in and they hooked it up to diagnostics machine to see why the check engine light was on and they told me (misfire cyclinder 3) so I replaced all the spark plugs (which were pretty shot) and that seemed to help for awhile but the problem started again. The problem being the engine chugging during idling, slow accelerating, and pretty sporadic times while driving. The chugging gets much better or goes away the harder you accelerate. Also, the check engine light would flash several times after a series of chugging and sometimes it would turn off but sometimes it stays lit after the flashing has stopped. Again, brought it in to try to diagnose the reason for the check engine light flashing/staying on and it still read misfire cyclinder 3. Replaced coil for the 3rd cylinder but problem still exists and seems to be worsening. Now, my car bucks me pretty hard during the periods of chugging and it doesn't seem to respond right to acceleration. Sometimes the acceleration is way behind, or almost flooring it will only cause the car to speed up very slowly and steadily.

At this point, I am just worried that if the problem gets much worse I will end up stalled on the side of the freeway when it's below zero outside! My uncle is the one who thought it was a bad cam sensor, but we really have no idea. I have been searching for answers/possible avenues all day but I am planning on bringing it in for an $85 diagnostics test today to see if we can figure out the real problem, then hopefully I can just take care of it myself without paying $200+ for the mechanic to do it.

Look, same thing was happening to my 1999 (200,000 miles).. I first did a diagnostic OBD check, then I brought it to Pep Boys brand new Garage; they charged me 100 for a diagnostic check, then they said there was an exhaust sensor disconnected. They hooked it up and told me to run it for a while... well I did.. After 10 minutes it started bucking again - HARD bucking, it actually felt like someone was bumping me from behind, that hard. So I just told myself I would research it myself since these guys couldn't do it. I searched all over the web, read everything I could (took 1 day or so). Found people complaining about the same thing and the result was they replaced the sensor that is directly under the thermostat in the engine. It is basically a triangle shaped sensor that is difficult to get at, you need a long socket extension. You'll have to take out the thermostat, push the two hoses aside and there it is... basically just left of the battery.I replaced it myself (and I'm an I.T. tech, not a car mechanic). It took about 2 hours cause I was working slow.

My car seems to have stalled out. I will turn it on to heat up in the morning and go inside and then when i come back out it isnt on. When it does this the brakes go out on it and I lose all steering. My RPMS drop below one unless I keep my foot on the gas. My heat wont work and my lights flash. What could this be?? I am about to have a baby and very frustrated with my car... kinda scares me to drive it and it is makin me mad!!! :mad:

I brought my car in for wheel bearing replacement. I had absolutely no symptoms of transmission issues. when bringing the car around the dealership, the tech suddenly couldn't drive the vehicle. it made a horrible crunching noise. they decided that my transmission/differential is shot. the car is not made anymore so no one can rebuild a transmission. my issue is it's a standard transmission, 100k, no symptoms prior to them having my vehicle. is this really possible? any advice?

hello my friends mercury cougar overheaded when the thermostat was put on backwards. sadly she kept driving it until it stopped on its own. when i put the diagnostic code reader on the car it said that cylinder number 2 was misfiring. i pulled the spark plugs out to see if they were damaged but it turns on they are in great shape the only thing is they smell and feel with gasoline. i had a mechanic stop by and look at the car and he said that the head gaskets are proubly just shot out and that it needs a new engine. my question for all of you is do i really need a new engine or can i just buy the head gaskets and replace those...all i am missing is combustion, so would that fix the problem???

I assume the engine won't start at all? Otherwise, white smoke from the exhaust would indicate a blown head gasket (that's what we had).Now that we have done it (2 times, actually), I tend to say it is not TOO big of a job: intake, upper intake manifold, lower intake manifold, motor mount, power steering, AC, crank pulley, alternator (?) (and maybe other stuff I forgot) have to come off to get the cylinder heads off. While off, we had them flow tested and 'squared' (just in case they got warped), and a valve job done. I forgot what the shop estimate was, but my guess is $1,500 or there about.

if the cougar 2000 sits for a few days it might not start. But sometimes it will. Lights and battery look good, cranks nice and easy . Almost like it has no fuel. Last yr the fuel pump was replaced under recall . So dealer is hesitant to do it again. They say it "might" be the idle auto control valve. Can't see why that would prevent starting > any ideas ?

I had driven 4 miles when my 1993 Cougar overheated & started to smoke very badly, also the heater went to cold air. Someone said the therm. was broken into & then replaced it. Last night the car started fine got about 10 miles and done the same thing. I left it on the road, went to move it later but as soon as it started up so did that knocking sound. Would someone please tell me if there is any hope for my car?

If you haven't fixed your issue: Your misfires could come from the spark plug wires. On NECO forum, they advise to use the original wires (expansive), but for me it also worked with the less expansive Duralast (Autozone).

That would be the first (and easy) thing to do, since you already replaced the spark plugs (hopefully using the double platinum ones).

H just pulled the oil pan on a 1999 mercury cougar 2.5 v6 dohc 99k mi found a amount of sludge two parts of the timing chain guide, plus some brass fileings .. pulled a rod bearing good babbit what in the engine could be wearing ? brass?

My daughter's 2002 mercury cougar has been running fine until the other day, it just died and now wont crank at all. It doesnt turn over at all. We put a new starter on it, thinking that may be the problem, and it has a new battery. All of the lights come on and the door dinger still dings. Not long ago had a bucking issue and we replaced all of the spark plugs and it has been running great ever since, but now this problem...Please help, anyone.

Have you tried to see if the starter gets voltage when you attempt to crank?I would assume not, since a new starter did not fix the problem.I know that you have to press the brake pedal to close a relay to get voltage to the starter, AND the shifter has to be in P or N.

since no voltage gets to the starter, I would check on those circuits (brake pedal switch/wire/relay, shifter position switch/wire/relay.

If those are ok and want to send voltage to the starter motor, I am sure there is a big fat relay that handles the full amps of the starter. If that relays gets voltage (from the ECU/PCM) to close, its either the relay or the wires from the relay to the starter. If it does NOT get voltage to close, its in the circuits before (brake switch, shifter).

on 97 cougar xrl 93K miles. had tune up new plug and wires, then check eng light came back on. mechanic put it on computer and checked and got E vap (vac?) code. He told me it was OK to continue to drive and not do anything about this code unless i want to investigate further as it is related to the emissions, said I can ignore check engine light and specifically said " this will not harm your engine in any way". so i ignore the check eng light and keep driving car. since he did tuneup it runs better. but i am worried about the check eng lite and ignoring it. any takers on this one? also - the other day i pulled into a gas station and when the attendant was unscrewing the gas cap my auto door locks started going up and down and the trunk popped open. never had this before. anyone ever heard of this and what could have caused it? a fuse maybe? engine was still on. :confuse: thanks in NJ

I would also agree the Evap code (what is the code number, like P0320). But one word of caution: on my previous older car, I had the check engine light on (ABS sensor). Then let kids (own and others) use the car for a month. No one noticed (since the CEL was always on) that the oil pressure had dropped to near zero and check the engine oil. Lost the engine in the process.

Lately this Cougar (150,000miles) has a slight misfire at 2000 rpm at low speeds and twice the CEL came on with code P0401 which seems to be EGR Flow Insufficient. I replaced the EGR valve but the misfire still exists. The CEL has not come on again yet but probably will eventually. Any suggestions?

I may have solved it myself. I found another message that if the throttle body is taken out there are three control holes right inside that get clogged with carbon. All three holes were really caked up on mine. The car has never liked coasting at 2000rpm and then being accelerated even just slightly and that is still there, but the more noticeable misfire seems gone. I'll have to drive it awhile

i have a 97 cougar v-8 4.6 L. The problem is erratic idle in park91100 rpm) and 8-900 rpm in drive. i have replaced the IAC. the problem is not continous. the check engine light does not come on. please help thanks

Hi there,My daughter has a 1995 Cougar. For a few days her key was not turning and she had to wiggle it and pray to get it to turn. Today when she did get it to turn it not only DIDNT start the car (good battery and started been tested) its making a grinding type noise. HELP please!!!!!!

The key not turning is one issue. Ours is getting worse too. Wiggling the steering wheel still helps. Ultimately, a new lock may be needed (quite expensive I would assume).

The grinding noise is worse: we had this issue, put a new starter in, but didn't help. Over time, it got so bad that we had to 'wiggle' the car back and forth (transmission in 'drive' to move the gears of the flywheel a bit to allow the start teeth to mesh in. That worked for a few month, progressively getting worse (since all the grinding naturally wears the teeth of the flywheel/flex plate out even more).

At the end, we had to pull the engine out and replace the flywheel/flex plate.

You can start with a new starter (already quite some work to remove parts to get to the starter), hoping its the starter.

When we pulled the motor, we decided to install a new motor at that time (much less miles; ours had already 140,000 mls on it).

Assuming the key has something to do with this, spray some lock lubricant or WD40 or something like 3and1 oil into the lock. Work the key in and out a number of times.I did eventually have to replace the lock on my 2001 Cougar. Any good locksmith can order that lock. If you go to Ford they only have a set of all locks on all doors for about $300.

Back again. Have returning P0401 CEL. Getting some misfire at 2000 rpm with slight acceleration. Also may have some misfire at higher speeds but not sure. Replacing EGR valve did not help. Some posts suggest replace the DPFE but some guys report not finding that and I can't find it either. I have the shop manual which shows it under the egr valve mounted on the engine. Does not seem to be there. There are two devices mounted on the manifold, one nearest the EGR valve but unidentified and then next to that is the Vacuum regulator.Any suggestions? Thanks.

Went to a Ford dealer and his photos are the same as my manual with the DPFE under the EGR valve bolted to the engine block. The parts guy was kind enough to go out to the car and point out a very small plastic DPFE that is not attached to anything and is just around the corner under a cylindrical sensor (which has to be removed to get to the DBFE). This smaller version has one electrical connection and two short hoses that go down to outlets from the EGR tube. Engine runs a lot better now. Apparently they used this plastic version for part of the 2001 model year.

I have a 99 Cougar V-6 with a manual trans and I am only getting air to the defrost vent in the dash. I have read in this forum that it could be a vacuum line. If anyone knows which one or can send pics of the location, that would be great. I have a couple of vacuum lines that are broken or unattached and I am sure one of them belongs to this problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks