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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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Turn ignition switch to the OFF position. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery. 2) Disconnect the wire at the coil which runs down to the points. Remove the point cover plate. 3) Note the position of the slots in the point plate. When the Mallory UNILITEfi plate is installed, use the position of the slots to approximate the timing. 4) Remove the wire to the points. Remove the O.E. standoffs and washers. Remove the point plate assembly. 5) Remove the O.E. cam sleeve from the advance assembly. Place a small amount of oil on the advance shaft which supported the cam sleeve. 6) Slide the Mallory shutter wheel onto the advance shaft. Make sure the shutter wheel is all the way down into the advance assembly (it will only go one way due to the roll pin in the advance assembly). 7) Install the advance and shutter wheel into the nose cone. Make sure that the pin on the bottom of the advance engages the slot on the end of the camshaft. Apply Loctite to the threads and install the advance bolt. Torque to 25 in.lb. 8) Rotate the shutter wheel by hand (counter-clockwise) and release. It should rotate about 10 degrees and “snap” back when released. 9) Install the two Mallory standoffs. Place Loctite on the threads and torque to 16 in.lb. Do not use any washers with the standoffs. 10) Start the three wires of the Mallory UNILITEfi Module through the hole in the nose cone housing. (The module goes in towards the advance assembly with the flat plate outward). Pull on the three wires to remove any slack and prevent the wires from rubbing on the shutter wheel. 11) Rotate the UNILITEfi plate assembly until the slots in the plate are in the same position as the point plate was. This should make the timing close enough to start the engine. Slide the two Mallory 8-32 sleeve nuts (supplied) through the UNILITEfi plate and onto the male threads of the Mallory standoffs. Tighten the sleeve nuts just enough to prevent the plate from moving. 14) Route the wires from the UNILITEfi Module to the ignition coil, carefully avoiding the exhaust system. Connect the red wire to the positive (+) terminal (12 volts) on the coil. Connect the green wire to the negative (ñ) terminal on the coil (where the point wire was connected). Connect the brown wire to ground. The best place for the brown wire is the negative (ñ) post on the battery, however, any part of the frame or engine which is grounded to the battery will work

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Removing the Cam Chain Drive System. NOTES Changing camshafts and cam drives in the 2006-up Harley-Davidson® Twin Cam 88® engines is different than in pervious engines. Procedures require use • of some special tools. Installation should be done by an experienced mechanic with access to factory service manual and required tools. Tighten all fasteners to the correct specifications and in order described. Always use an accurate torque wench. • Incorrect installation can cause engine damage not covered under warranty. CAUTION Failure to install components correctly can result in sudden engine seizure. Engine seizure may result in serous injury to motorcycle operator, passenger, or others. A- Disconnect the battery ground cable to eliminate potential sparks and inadvertently engagement of the starter while working on the motorcycle. B- Remove spark plugs and pushrod cover clips. Collapse the pushrod covers to expose the pushrods. C- Safely elevate and stabilize the rear of the motorcycle. Place the transmission in high gear. Turn the rear wheel to rotate the engine until both lifters and pushrods for either cylinder are at the lowest point on the camshaft (TDC of compression stroke). Both intake and exhaust pushrods for that cylinder will be under pressure from the valve springs and will rotate with light finger pressure. NOTE: 510G camshafts may use stock style non-adjustable pushrods instead of adjustable pushrods. If installing non-adjustable pushrods, disassemble and assemble rocker boxes per H-D® instructions. All other S&S® gear driven cams require installing adjustable pushrods. As a time-saving measure, the stock pushrods can be removed with bolt cutters. Be sure to head caution and warnings of these instructions. D- Cut the pushrods for the cylinder that is at TDC with the bolt cutter and remove the pushrod covers from the engine. Rotate the engine to place the pushrods for the other cylinder at their lowest point. Cut and remove the remaining pushrods. WARNING CAUTION Cutting pushrods with a saw or cutoff wheel may result in debris entering the engine, causing engine damage not covered under warranty. WARNING Cutting pushrods without releasing spring pressure, by rotating the engine until tappets are at the lowest point of travel can result in bodily injury. E- Remove the pushrod covers and lifters form the crankcase. F- Remove engine cam cover and gasket. Secure lifers with a tool made from a large binder clip

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1. Turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the battery ground cable before proceeding. 2. For applications with Harley-Davidson OE ignition modules, simply replace the existing OE VOES switch with the new Twin Tec switch. Use the supplied crimp terminals to connect the new switch in place of the old switch. The wiring is not polarity sensitive and the two wires from the new switch can be interchanged. 3. For Twin Tec ignitions, refer to the installation instructions supplied with the ignition module for VOES switch hookup. Use the supplied crimp terminals to connect the new switch. The wiring is not polarity sensitive and the two wires from the new switch can be interchanged. 4. Reconnect the battery ground cable when you have completed the installation

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INSTALLATION ON 2004 MODELS 1. Turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the battery ground cable before proceeding. 2. Refer to Figures 2 and 3 for wiring details. 3. Remove the Gill Module. 4. Cut off the OE 18 terminal AMP connector used with the Gill module. Refer to the terminal list. Crimp new Deutsch terminals on the wires, and install into the 12 terminal Deutsch connector required by the TC88A-IH module. 5. Install the new TC88A-IH module. 6. Reconnect the battery ground cable. INSTALLATION ON 2005 AND LATER MODELS 1. Turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the battery ground cable before proceeding. 2. Refer to Figures 4 and 5 for wiring details. 3. Remove the Gill Module. 4. Cut off the OE 18 terminal AMP connector used with the Gill module. 5. The crankshaft position (CKP), MAP, and engine temperature (ET) sensor share a common ground Daytona Twin Tec LLC, 933 Beville Road, Suite 101-H, S. Daytona, FL 32119 TC88A-IH (386) 304-0700 www.daytona-twintec.com 10/2009 Page 2 return. This is not compatible with the TC88A-IH and some rewiring will be required. The temperature sensor is not used, but does not require removal. 6. Trace the BK/GN ground return wires from terminal B of the ET sensor and terminal A of the MAP sensor to where they join the BK/GY ground return wire from the CKP sensor. Cut the ET and MAP sensor ground return wires off at this point. You can tape up the ground return wire from the ET sensor – this wire will not be used. 7. Extend the ground return wire from terminal A of the MAP sensor up to the ignition module, crimp on a Deutsch terminal and install in position 4 on the Deutsch connector. 8. Refer to the terminal list. Crimp new Deutsch terminals on the remaining wires, and install into the 12 terminal Deutsch connector required by the TC88A-IH module. 9. Use a DVM to verify isolation (no continuity) between terminals 4 and 9 on the Deutsch connector. 10. Verify continuity between terminal A at the MAP sensor and terminal 4 on the Deutsch connector. 11. Verify continuity between terminal 2 at the CKP sensor and terminal 9 on the on the Deutsch connector. 12. Install the new TC88A-IH module. 13. Reconnect the battery ground cable. Terminal List for American IronHorse Ignition Conversion TC88A Deutsch Connector OE AMP Connector Signal Wire Color Code 1 2 +12V Power W/R

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1. Remove the seat and disconnect the cables at the battery. Remove the ground cable first and then the positive (+) cable. 2. Drain the oil in the outer primary case and remove the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual. 3. Bend the tab on the jackshaft bolt away from the bolt head. Remove the starter pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and washer. 4. Remove the clutch assembly using the procedure found in the Factory Shop manual. 5. Remove the original equipment ring gear from the clutch basket by drilling out the rivets with a 5/16-inch drill bit. Drill through the rivet head and tap the ring gear off the clutch basket using a hammer. 6. Drill out the six holes in the clutch basket with the 5/16-inch drill bit. RING AND STARTER PINION GEAR INSTALLATION 1. Attach the new 84-tooth ring gear to the clutch basket using the six 5/16×24 socket head cap screws supplied. NOTE… The bevel side of the ring gear (identified by the three dots) faces away from the starter motor. Torque the socket head cap screws to 29 ft lbs. 2. Assemble and install the primary drive assembly following the instructions in the factory Shop manual. 3. Install the new 10-tooth pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and thrust washer. Torque the jackshaft bolt to 7 – 9 ft lbs. Bend the lock tab on the lock plate against a flat on the jackshaft bolt head. 4. Measure and adjust the air gap between the ring gear and the pinion gear. See Fig-1 . The correct gap is .075 – .125 inch. If the gap is larger than .125 inch, use the supplied shim washers inside the jackshaft coupler. See Fig-2 . If the air gap is smaller than .075 inch, the jackshaft must be shortened by removing material from the splined end of the shaft. See Fig-3 . 5. Install the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual and refill the primary case with the proper amount of primary oil. 6. Re-install the battery cables in the reverse order they were removed. Re-install the seat

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GENERAL CAUTIONS A. DURING THE USE AND MAINTENANCE OF THE MACHINE IT IS MANDATORY TO COMPLY WITH ALL LAWS AND REGULATIONS FOR ACCIDENT PREVEN- TION. B. THE ELECTRICAL POWER SOURCE MUST HAVE A GROUND CABLE AND THE GROUND CABLE OF THE MACHINE MUST BE CONNECTED TO THE GROUND CABLE OF THE POWER SOURCE. C. BEFORE ANY MAINTENANCE OR REPAIRS ARE ACCOMPLISHED THE MACHINE MUST BE DISCONNECTED FROM THE AIR AND ELECTRICAL SUPPLY. D. NEVER WEAR TIES, CHAINS OR OTHER LOOSE ARTICLES WHEN USING, MAINTAINING OR REPAIRING THE MACHINE. LONG HAIR IS ALSO DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE KEPT UNDER A HAT. THE USER MUST WEAR PROPER SAFETY ATTIRE – GLOVES, SAFETY SHOES AND GLASSES. 2.0 INSTALLATION Your new JBC 8950 or 8960 Series Tire Changer requires a simple installation procedure requiring only a few moments. Follow these instructions carefully to insure proper and safe operation. The Tire Changer is delivered mounted to a wooden skid. Remove tire changer from its mounts carefully, taking care to avoid any back strain. Place Changer where proper operation will be unobstructed to all sides. Install the machine in a covered and dry place. 2.0.1 Models with SRA attached (8955IN, 8965IN) Once placed in the desired location the tire changer must be bolted to the floor using only the rear two mounting holes. Mounting anchors are provided with those machines with a Safety Restraint Arm. Tire Changer must be anchored to concrete floor if equipped with a “Safety Restraint Arm” BUILDING ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION MUST BE MADE BY A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN. Check that the electrical specifications of the power source are the same of the machine. The machine uses 110v, 60 hz, single phase 20 amp source. Electric specifications are clearly marked on a label at the rear of the machine. FAILURE TO PROVIDE PROPER ELECTRICAL SUPPLY AND GROUNDING WILL CREATE A SHOCK HAZARD TO THE OPERATOR

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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Remove tappet assemblies from engine being sure that each one is kept with it’soriginal tappet block. NOTE: This procedure is the preferred method of installation. However, kit can be installed without removing lifters from engine. 2. Remove hydraulic piston retaining wire clip from one assembly at a time. Be careful not to bend wire clip during disassembly. 3. Completely disassemble tappet removing all parts. 4. Thoroughly clean all parts including tappet body. Remove any oil which might prevent hydraulic unit from fully collapsing during adjustment. 5. Insert one spacer from S&S HL 2 Tkit in tappet body. 6. Reassemble tappet in reverse order making sure original parts arereturned to their original positions. See Picture1. 7. Replace wire retaining clip in tappet body. 8. Put tappet back in original tappet block. 9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 for three remaining tappets. 10. Reassemble engine with modified tappets. 11. Adjust pushrods. NOTE – In all cases engine must be cold and lifter must be at lowest point of travel for pushrod adjustment To prevent accidents, remove ground cable from battery. A. Remove spark plugs. B. Bring piston to TDC on compression stroke in cylinder to be adjusted. Normally both tappets will be at their lowest point of travel. C. Extend pushrod adjustment, collapsing lifter until piston assembly is in contact with HL 2 Tspacer and pushrod is tight. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are readjusted after engine has been run, or if all oil was not removed during installation, extend pushrod adjustment until valve is open (about five additional turns of adjusting screw). Allow 5 minutes for hydraulic unit to bleed down. If pushrod can be turned with fingers after bleeding down, lifter is not completely collapsed, and this step must be repeated. NOTE – perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn engine until pushrod adjustment is complete. Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in valve to valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve train damage. D. Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated with the fingers with slight drag. NOTE – Shortening adjuster an additional six flats or full turn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This provides additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve the ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zerolash under normal operating conditions. E. Tighten lock nut. F. Follow the same procedure for all four push rods. G. Recheck pushrod adjustment after a few hundred miles. NOTES ● It is a good idea to recheck pushrod adjustment in a new engine as valve train may tighten up due to gasket compression and valve seat wear. ● Upon initial start up after modification, HL 2 Tequipped lifters may be somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles. If lifters are still noisy after 20 miles it is recommended that pushrods be adjusted 1⁄2 turnlooser. See step D