Sewing Tricks Quincy MA

For trousers, the pant leg should fall to the floor at the back of the heel when you're standing without shoes. A narrower pant that's cut the same length will bunch up too much at the ankle. Read on for more solution.

Sewing Tricks

How ToSandra's Solutions

TOP SEWING Tips from Sandra Betzina

Long & Short of ItFor trousers, the pant leg should fall to the floor at the back of the heel when you're standing without shoes. A narrower pant that's cut the same length will bunch up too much at the ankle. So for a shorter pant, hem the pants to just under the anklebone or 2" to 3" above the floor. A good length for a cropped pant is 7" to 9" above the floor; if you're petite, 5" to 6" inches above the floor is a more flattering length because it lengthens the leg.

Same Place, Same Time When altering pattern pieces that join, make the alteration in the same place on each pattern piece. For example, if you're upsizing a detailed yoked skirt pattern for a total of 3": Split the skirt front between the darts and add I", and then split the front yoke in the same area and add I". Split the skirt back between the darts and add I", and then split the back yoke in the same area and add I". Downsize a skirt in the same manner.

If the altered curve on the yoke and the skirt upper edge causes a slight jog, smooth out the jogs. If you added to one side of a pattern piece, take out the same amount you added from the piece that joins it so the end result is the same as the original.

Life LineExtend the life of fusible notions, such as fusible tape, fusible web and fusible thread, by storing them in sealed plastic bags. Two-gallon plastic zip-top bags rate top marks for storing patterns.

You've Got a FriendIf you have a friend who sews, set up regular sewing times to get together and sew. You'll accomplish a lot more and get to know each other better. And two heads are better than one for solving sewing and/or fitting problems.

Stock Up Every sewer needs a good needle stash to avoid puckered seams. Stock your stash with the following:

70/10 HM for microfibers

70/10 HJ for silks and buttonholes

75/11 HS for all knits

70/10 SUK for bathing suit fabrics

90/14 HJ for denim and upholstery fabrics

90/14 N for topstitching with heavy thread to avoid thread shredding

Stretch twin needles for knits to avoid skipped stitches

Regular twin needles for wovens

70/10 HE when sewing with metallic threads

This is a TestIf most of your fitting problems occur in the tummy and high-hip areas, test skirt and pant patterns by cutting the upper 10" of the pattern from scrap fabric. Apply stabilizing tape (such as Stay-Tape) to the waist so it won't stretch during the fitting. Machine baste the pieces together. The gap at center front or center back indicates how much to add when cutting out the pattern from the fashion fabric.

Cut It OutWhen cutting, use your left hand to hold the pattern and fabric flat against the cutting surface. Cut with your right hand using long smooth cuts; be careful not to lift the fabric off the cutting surface higher than the blade ...