Apologize for asking but my google-fu is not producing the results I'm looking for. I have had my F8000 since 2014 and love it. However, yesterday I wanted to make some changes based on the wonderful settings I found in this thread.

Long story short, my lovely wife has misplaced the F8000 remote. I downloaded an Android app and once installed, the F8000 requested that I give permission to the Android app for control. Needless to say that without the F8000 remote, I couldn't do a thing to grant that permission.

Question. Do any of you use an Android TV remote app to run your F8000 and if so, which? I do not have an IR Blaster on my Note 5, so I'll have to go IP based/Wireless and I know quite a few on Google Play will do that. But would love to hear from you all!

Apologize for asking but my google-fu is not producing the results I'm looking for. I have had my F8000 since 2014 and love it. However, yesterday I wanted to make some changes based on the wonderful settings I found in this thread.

Long story short, my lovely wife has misplaced the F8000 remote. I downloaded an Android app and once installed, the F8000 requested that I give permission to the Android app for control. Needless to say that without the F8000 remote, I couldn't do a thing to grant that permission.

Question. Do any of you use an Android TV remote app to run your F8000 and if so, which? I do not have an IR Blaster on my Note 5, so I'll have to go IP based/Wireless and I know quite a few on Google Play will do that. But would love to hear from you all!

Thanks

I read that a number of people got 2 remotes with their F8000s, the pad and a standard type remote. I was jealous so I bought the standard
too. :P They both have their advantages/disadvantages. ...anyway, what i'm getting at is you should still be able to find it. You want model
"BN59-01054A". As of this writing I see one in stock at amazon:https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-BN59-...ds=BN59-01054A

It's not cheap, but the quality is top notch. There are cheaper generic copies, but I don't know how well they work.

Apologize for asking but my google-fu is not producing the results I'm looking for. I have had my F8000 since 2014 and love it. However, yesterday I wanted to make some changes based on the wonderful settings I found in this thread.

Long story short, my lovely wife has misplaced the F8000 remote. I downloaded an Android app and once installed, the F8000 requested that I give permission to the Android app for control. Needless to say that without the F8000 remote, I couldn't do a thing to grant that permission.

Question. Do any of you use an Android TV remote app to run your F8000 and if so, which? I do not have an IR Blaster on my Note 5, so I'll have to go IP based/Wireless and I know quite a few on Google Play will do that. But would love to hear from you all!

Thanks

Hi ,

Go to your local Best Buy , and pick up the cheapest RCA universal remote they have , that should help.

TS01 is the original panel that got rave reviews from critics. I have a TS01 panel as well so our picture characteristics should be fairly similar.

Sorry again for that mix up, I cannot believe that went over my head for so long. Your picture should look stellar.

You'll probably notice the white balance values changed, after doing further experimenting it appears Red is the most adjustment sensitive and clips after 30, while green is slightly less sensitive and clips after 35-40 and blue is the least sensitive and doesn't clip at all. So for the contrast ratio boosting trick setting blue to 50 and red to 30 gives the absolute highest contrast ratio possible on the F8000. Then of course you adjust the green accordingly until white is "pure" and close to the D6500K (this is in side by side comparison to the factory calibrated 2014 F8500, Tom's Hardware found this to be nearly perfectly calibrated out of the box, one of the most accurate factory calibrations from Samsung ever).

Keep in mind that with the contrast ratio boosting trick gamma drops on the higher end lending to slightly brighter than normal white detail. To my eye and I would think many others this slight brightening makes the picture have an HDR like pop to it. If you want true reference gamma then you'll have to invest in a meter.

One thing I should point out, my F8000 has a slight greenish/yellowish tint in the center portion of the screen and a reddish tint on the left and right sides. This is normal for edge lit displays as the yellow phosphor'ed LEDs diffuse across the screen. The affect is less pronounced on most TVs but for me the center portion of the screen is what was "calibrated" and the peripheral sides are not. Unfortunately I discovered this tint a couple years after I got the F8000 so I couldn't do anything about it and since I went that long without noticing it goes to show that it's probably not anything to worry about anyways.

The point is you will need to adjust green accordingly to your F8000's tint uniformity. If you don't have the green tint in the center you may need to increase the green gain.

After that your picture should look stunning and almost "mimic" HDR with the added pop on the bright end of the picture.

I will recheck the green tint issue, but haven't noticed anything overly obvious. Thanks for the heads up.

On another note, I meant to mention this a while back, but as I only recently updated my firmware I noticed some peculiar things associated with it.

As of the latest firmware update ( I had not updated for a year or so prior to this ) I've noticed several substantial changes to my picture settings.

1: game mode used to have many of the processing features greyed out and disabled. But now game mode retains "smart led" to "high" from our movie mode settings. I now have to always disable this.

Also game mode allows for auto motion as well as Color space control. It used to default to native.

I may be wrong but I believe most of these if not all were disabled to decrease input lag. Especially smart LeD and the fAct that the setting is not exclusive to the input mode.

2: "natural" picture mode used to be much brighter than movie mode and second only to dynamic. Now I find that natural is very dark , even darker than standard.

Also I did a browser check to test black levels and it appears "natural " is crushing the black levels badly even with the correct hdmi settings.

Not sure what these changes were for but if you have a chance I'd appreciate a comparison.

Also, my tv's picture quality is better than ever. Your settings combined with a great tv have kept me a happy customer. I've also got media player home cinema switching the f8000 to 23.676 (24p mode) anytime I watch a movie on my PC. And the "clear" setting takes care of the motion blur without the induced judder nicely.

I'd like to get a brand new 4K TV but honestly I'm having trouble justifying it with as good as the 8000 is, even 3 years later.

4K`s are ok , but think about source material , not that much , some yes , more tomorrow , yes.

Now think of all the sub formats like :

HDR needs 10bit panel

HDR10 needs 10bit panel and high color gambit ( software upgradable )

DolbyVision , a whole other deal that is hard wired to the main board and is not HDR10 compatible , so you throw all that into the mix and it starts to look like HD-DVD versus Blu-Ray all over again

Will I buy , yup , not because I want to , but because all electronics are a ticking failure.

Sad , but true , look at the K8000 compared to the F8K , it`s like the "K" is missing all the good stuff that makes the F8K special , 3D , animated menus , has camera ( albeit a bad camera ). and HDR10 , but no DolbyVision.

The F8000 represents the pinnacle of 1080p televisions. We have not seen the pinnacle of 4K HDR TVs just yet, we've seen great TVs but by no means pinnacle ones.

I have a rough prediction that we won't see a 4K HDR TV that hits the entire rec.2020 color space as well as hit 4000-10,000 nits for several years. When that pinnacle 4K HDR TV or the generation after drops then there will be a compelling reason to replace or displace the F8000. Until then, happy viewing on the F8000!

The F8000 represents the pinnacle of 1080p televisions. We have not seen the pinnacle of 4K HDR TVs just yet, we've seen great TVs but by no means pinnacle ones.

I have a rough prediction that we won't see a 4K HDR TV that hits the entire rec.2020 color space as well as hit 4000-10,000 nits for several years. When that pinnacle 4K HDR TV or the generation after drops then there will be a compelling reason to replace or displace the F8000. Until then, happy viewing on the F8000!

Agree 100% ! I was at Best Buy and looked at their 4K sets while passing by, sure they look great ...with their 4K content demos! A friend of mine recently bought a LG 4K (55UH6550 ...ok not top of the line but still ), when hooked up to every day cable, it still doesn't look as good as a F8000. Plan to hold on to the F8000 for a number of years

The F8000 represents the pinnacle of 1080p televisions. We have not seen the pinnacle of 4K HDR TVs just yet, we've seen great TVs but by no means pinnacle ones.

I have a rough prediction that we won't see a 4K HDR TV that hits the entire rec.2020 color space as well as hit 4000-10,000 nits for several years. When that pinnacle 4K HDR TV or the generation after drops then there will be a compelling reason to replace or displace the F8000. Until then, happy viewing on the F8000!

The only current 4K TVs I'd be really inclined to splurge on would be LGs OLED. But knowing that (as many of you said) there are some technologies that haven't had time to mature as well as high costs-- will keep me from buying.

The HDR format war is an issue, even though with Dolby you have a bit more flexibility assuming your panel supports it.

I also find it extremely annoying that none of these displays support native display port that I'm aware of. It's time for HDMI to go.

Did anyone notice the picture changes I listed to the f8000 in my last post?

Some 4K still are using 8 bit panels , however the more costly and much better ones , like LG OLED / > 8500 Sammy`s / > 850 Sony`s all use 10 bit panels , but only LG OLED`s are both hardwired for DolbyVision and HDR.

Vizio P`s are said to be 10 bit with DolbyVision and software upgradable HDR , not sure if it would be HDR 10 , for that point not sure about Vizio

Later

Gary 

Physiology plays a ton in what people buy , and what those same people see !!!!

We AV Geeks see the numbers , and so do our bodies , but the math is different !! LOL

My tv keeps blinking off the picture for second with hdmi information appears on top when it comes back on any fix for this?

My F8500 Samsung plasma does this with my computer HDMI connection only, my PS4 and everything else it does not do this. I think it is a very rare and weird HDMI handshaking glitch which is very annoying!

I've tried resetting the TV, changing HDMI ports, changing my PC's HDMI output settings, nothing seems to help it. I wish I could offer you a suggestion but if we both have the same problem on two different Samsung TVs then it must be an HDMI driver handshaking issue of some sorts that may be beyond our ability to fix!

My F8500 Samsung plasma does this with my computer HDMI connection only, my PS4 and everything else it does not do this. I think it is a very rare and weird HDMI handshaking glitch which is very annoying!

I've tried resetting the TV, changing HDMI ports, changing my PC's HDMI output settings, nothing seems to help it. I wish I could offer you a suggestion but if we both have the same problem on two different Samsung TVs then it must be an HDMI driver handshaking issue of some sorts that may be beyond our ability to fix!

Hi everyone, so I know this was a big topic back last year but I recently found out that samsung released a new Evolution kit for the F8000 TV's. Has anyone else heard any info on how it works or what is new with it? I see it's on Amazon for about $220. I believe the picture is wrong on Amazon though because on the official Samsung website it looks different. Anyway, would love to hear sme details if anyone has gotten it.

I have a UN55ES8000F and it recently started having issues where it would black out and have green artifacting after about 10 minutes of use. Is there a fan or something that goes bad in these things? Thanks in advance

I have a UN55ES8000F and it recently started having issues where it would black out and have green artifacting after about 10 minutes of use. Is there a fan or something that goes bad in these things? Thanks in advance

Impossible to really tell what exactly is failing but it is likely the result of thermal expansion of some component or connection. Are the artifacts vertical, horizontal, or defined geometry within the screen? Vertical could be T-Con or related to surrounding connection ribbons and horizontal and within-the-screen artifacts could be Main Board, Panel, or related connection problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by boltonic

Does anyone know what screws are used to to secure the frame to a 60 inch tv?

Are you referring to the F8000's screws that connect the clean back of the chassis to the panel? If you have at least one screw you could take it to a hardware store and find a matching one.

I know this is a long shot but does anyone use hdmi cec devices through an avr and this tv? On my older samsung (2014) i could select the cec device through the tv's interface and it would turn it on and switch to it even with it connected to an avr (since the avr also supports cec, i have used denon and yamaha), can you still do that through the 2016 model using sources menu even if its connected through an avr first then to a tv?