Fitting Instructions for the RB20 Cylinder Kit

Now that you are the owner of the most advanced engine kit ever designed for the small block Lambretta, please read and follow the instructions listed below, so that the future will hold thousands of trouble free scootering miles. Due to the nature of the RB20 and it’s intended use, NO guarantee can be given against wrong assembly, incorrect petrol oil mixture (4% No Less), incorrect timing, general abuse in driving causing excessive wear and tear, or any other part in the engine that fails causing damage to the kit. The only warranty offered on this kit is against manufacturing fault, in which case the parts must be returned to us before assembly. By fitting the kit you are accepting our terms for its use and warranty, if you do not accept these terms please send the kit back immediately for a refund.

Recommended Minimum Engine Spec.
Based on a brand new GP 150 Engine the following is the minimum engine specification required to reliably run the RB20. Cutting corners will result in greater expense and possibly life threatening failure. This is a high performance kit not for the foolish or faint hearted.
RB20 Kit, RB20 Head, RB AF 58mm Race Crank with 116mm rod, Machined Crownwheel, GT Clutch Springs, Centre Spring and quality clutch plates, Aluminium Top Chain Guide, possibly a Strong Selector Spring. This kit should only be run with an appropriate Expansion System and Suitable Open Carb, we recommend our RB Rally NK Expansion or our RB Road Race NK Expansion and the 34mm VHSB Dellorto or the 30mm VHSH Dellorto.

The engine should be thoroughly checked to ensure it has no other problems with repairs and replacement components fitted as required. The crankshaft is especially important. We can up-rate some existing crankshafts with a special 15 roller big end bearing and replacement 116mm rod or supply a complete replacement RB20 AF Race Crank with 116mm rod that has been developed specifically for the kit. Check rotation of crank in your casing before fitting the kit, some may require a small amount of filing at the top and bottom of the crankcase mouth to prevent the big end fouling on the casing.

Assembly of kit

1. Remove the engine bar and lower the engine to ensure ease of assembly and for checking frame clearance.

2. Clean the crankcase base gasket surface completely. Take the new cylinder base gasket, lightly grease and fit to neck of crankcase.

3. Fit piston complete, make sure the arrow on the crown of the piston points towards the exhaust port and that the circlips have positively located.

4. Fit RB cylinder on to the engine, take care not to damage the piston or rings, Do not fit the reeds or inlet manifold until the piston rings are above the inlet port. You may need to push down on the piston rings through the inlet manifold to ensure they do not catch and break. Check to make sure the cylinder is sitting down flat on the base gasket. If there is any resistance find the cause, do not apply excessive force. Hold the cylinder in place and gently turn the flywheel and feel for any resistance or problem as you watch the piston travel through its stroke.

5. Check the bolts holding reed petal stops are tight. Pinch the dual reeds together, and fit the reed valve assembly in to the cylinder. Lightly grease the inlet gasket and loosely fit the inlet manifold to the cylinder. Fit the six inlet bolts with loctite, clamping the inlet manifold to the cylinder. Fit exhaust studs with loctite.

6. Fit the head gasket and secure the RB20 cylinder head to a torque setting of 20 ft.lbs. If you are fitting a skimmed head please ensure that it has been opened out to the correct diameter. Check your squish clearance (smallest distance between piston crown and cylinder head at TDC) is not less than 1.5mm and not greater than 2mm. Alternate gasket thicknesses are available to help you set this.

7. Loosely offer up the cowling, mark around the cowling the inlet manifold position and the exhaust port position and cut the cowling to suit.

8. Lift the engine back up and locate the engine bar. Check you have sufficient clearance between the inlet manifold and frame by removing and refitting the rear shock (to simulate full suspension travel). Make any modifications as required to the frame, remove battery tray if fitted, fit series III rear shock (300mm) if series II is fitted.

9. Fit the exhaust stub and cowling. Proceed as normal for the complete engine assembly. You will require a piece of petrol pipe approx. 18’’ in length. Thread the pipe under the frame, across the head cowling to the carburettor. You may use cable ties to ensure the pipe stays in location and will not be trapped.

Plug and Oil mixture
Run the machine using a Champion N2 plug with 30 thou plug gap, or equivalent from another manufacturer, you may need the hotter N3 in winter. Use a petrol to oil mixture of 25 : 1 (4%, or two AF mixing jugs per 5 litres). Never drop below 4% mixture regardless of brand of oil or what “your mate said”!
Always use 99RON Unleaded if the head has been skimmed to a higher compression. Regular 95 RON unleaded should be okay with the standard RB20 Head.

N.B. Do not fit an inline fuel filter. This jetting is not suitable for running with an air filter.

Expansion System and Gearbox
The expansion system you use will affect the final drive ratio you will need, and the desired final drive ratio will dictate which front sprocket, and crownwheel you will need to make your gearbox work well. Ask the supplier of your expansion system what they recommend letting them know your weight, if you are using the bike two up and the area you will be riding the bike in, i.e. Hilly, Flat, Town, etc.

Chassis, Forks, Brakes, Tyres and Suspension
A correctly set up RB20 is substantially more powerful and significantly faster than the standard Lambretta. It is prudent to ensure your Lambretta’s handling is adequate. A powerful front brake, good quality tyres, and a well-maintained machine are essential to your safe enjoyment.

Important Concerns
Clean out your petrol tank and petseal it before use, especially if you are fitting a new petrol tank or a long-range tank. If it contains any abrasive it will rapidly destroy your kit. Blasting grit is the worst offender but polishing compound will have the same result. Also check your fuel flow and filter in your carb regularly for contamination. Fuel starvation will cause a number of expensive problems. Check your head cowl is the late GP type with the large air outlet, and that your flycowl is a close fit with your flywheel to ensure you have the best cooling you can. We do not recommend you set your bike up on a dyno. We did extensive dyno testing in the development stage of this kit (and build those engines with this in mind), and I expect other dealers to do similar levels of dyno work whilst they develop their own set ups to suit the kit. We do this so we can give you the correct answer and the best performance without you having to so load your engine. We have never dynoed a customer’s bike and do not intend to. We recommend jetting changes be judged by road testing.

Running in Your RB Kit
During the running in period adhere to the following:

Try to use the bike for short journeys (i.e. less than 12 miles) or break longer journeys in to smaller chunks.

Vary the rpm while riding i.e. do not just sit at 40mph all the time.
First 100 miles: Stay below 45 mph and vary the rpm.
Next 200 miles: Stay below 55 mph and vary the rpm.
Next 200 miles: Stay below 65 mph and vary the rpm.

At 500 Miles give the bike a check over, 1st service & oil change. Next 500 miles: Do not hold the bike flat out for any length of time. Have fun.

Servicing your RB Kit
The RB Kit is significantly more powerful than the standard engine. As a result servicing is even more important in order to maintain a safe and reliable bike. We recommend the following as a minimum level of care to ensure you get the most enjoyment out of your bike. Please show this information to your servicing dealer, and make them aware of any considerations or areas of concern before the service.