It also came with a green "call" sticker, and a red "end-call" sticker. I don't think I'll be putting these on my steering wheel, but if anyone has an extra set of the the 2009 steering wheel controls with the phone call symbols I'd be interested in buying .

The install was very simple. I didn't take pictures, but I used this pdf guide for reference, and it was very helpful I think it was created by lorennerol, or at least he posted it. The dash wasn't too difficult and I didn't even manage to break anything. Getting the various wires disconnected without a lot of slack was the most difficult part.

After the dash dis-assembly it was as simple as plugging the factory wires into the splice harness, plugging the connectors on the harness into the back of the stereo, and then plugging the harness and mic into the bluetooth module. There was just enough room behind the brace panel to stuff the module and excess wiring.

(this is from a Solstice, but ours looks the same)

I ran the mic wire out the left side behind the center console and clipped the mic on the plastic trim panel on the transmission tunnel. It sits about mid-thigh. It picked up my voice well on the few test calls I made, and worked well for voice recognition. I figured having it down lower might make it function acceptably with the top down, but haven't tested it yet.

The interface works through the steering wheel controls whether the radio is on or off. If the radio is on/playing a cd it mutes that audio and switches to the bluetooth audio. A long press of the mute button still brings up the OnStar call dialog, so I figure you still retain full OnStar functionality. I'm not subscribing to OnStar so I couldn't do any further testing.

The bonus of this module is it also supports A2DP audio streaming and works with the steering wheel controls as well. Now the big downside to this is that the audio only plays over the front speakers. I imagine that it's a power-out issue from the module (not enough juice to safely power all the speakers). I emailed the company to ask if it would cause issues, but I'm considering splicing the audio out from the module to the low-level rear audio inputs to see if I can get that signal to my amp. I figure since the audio out from the stereo with the Monsoon system is a low power signal to the amp, the module should have enough power to send the low power signal too with out overloading.

I have the wiring diagram for my car, but not the module. Before I put it in I did some tracing with my multi-meter and it seemed that there was a connection between the low-level inputs and the module, but obviously I was missing something because the rear audio no-worky.

The box unexplainably quit working on Monday (12 Mar). I suspect it may have over-heated, but can't be sure. When I went back to my car several hours after I got home it worked fine, and worked with no problems yesterday and this morning. We're getting up to about 80 degrees here today so I might be able to check the overheating problem.

In call performance is just fine. I've made a few calls with the top down (Yea NW Florida) up to 45mph and had no complaints from the person on the other end.

The only other strange thing that I've learned is the audio system generates the click for our turn signals and it comes out of one of the pillar mounted tweeters (I think). I figured this out because when the bluetooth is over-riding my audio you get no click from the turn signal. When this happened I thought my turn signal might be broken, but saw the light flashing. A little further down the road when Google Navigation wasn't talking to me the click was back. I also noticed that if you were streaming audio when you shut the car off (BTW the module doesn't get power under the RAP circuit, only in ACC or IGN). The "Hey dummy you hit the lock button with your door open chime," doesn't work until you cycle the ignition.

The spare harness arrived yesterday afternoon and I got it spliced up last night. I did notice as I was tracing out the wiring, that no front audio passes from the Stereo directly to the amp. The front audio out + and - from the stereo is routed to the BEEBG Module, and then from the Module to the amp. The Rear + signal is pased through directly from the stereo to the amp, but there's also a splice from the amp side C1 (male) connector to the Module 24 pin connector. The Rear - signal is wired exactly like the Front + and -. I guess this is what allows the module to mute the audio from the Radio, but it's strange as the Rear + signal is always connected to the amp, whereas when the front signal is muted it is completely disconnected. Since they already have the pass through circuit in the module it shouldn't have been difficult for them to add the streaming audio out to all speakers.

What I spliced (unfortunately Crux did not color code the wires to the car harness the same as the factory wiring):Crux #5 (R+ Gray) to C1 #5 (RR+ Purple/Black) (Dark Blue on the factory harness)Crux #6 (R– Gray/Black) to C1 #4 (RR- Purple) (Tan on the factory harness)Crux #7 (L+ White) to C1 #7 (LR+ Green/Black) (Brown/White on the factory harness)Crux #8 (L– White/Black) to C1 #6 (LR- Green) (Brown on the factory harness)

I should be able to do some testing with my modified harness tonight, so stay tuned for an update.EDIT
I don't think I'm going to get around to messing with the wiring tonight. I just finished up changing the spark plugs on my '93 F-150. After 3.5 hours I'd certainly like to choke the retarded monkey that designed that engine bay. Between the angle the plugs go into the cylinder head, and all the extra junk in the way, it was a pain in the butt. I even had to go underneath to get the plug into the 8th cylinder, and even though it's the 4x4 I needed about an extra 1/2 inch of clearance to get under the front on my creaper, so I had to jack the front up . I will say, however, I am much relieved. The truck is running much better on spark plugs that aren't 10-15 years old and gapped to .072"

Good news is that my base is running a massive security drill, so no work tomorrow. I should be able to get it done in the morning

Whats going on Sir! I decided that i will be ordering this kit. Im on duty right now as OOD and its on lock down here as well.

If you haven't ordered yet try this discount code: TY15 I got it in my email, and it's supposed to be 15% off, Friends and family discount, so I don't think that you'd need my order number or anything. I think even if you've already ordered you can contact them and request a refund of the discounted amount.

Thanks marlboromike, I'm just trying to contribute to the community , unfortunately I don't have good news.

With the spliced wires the stereo audio does not mute completely when streaming or using the phone. I'm guessing this is because the Rear + lines are directly connect to the amp. Also, the volume is waaaaay too low, and once you get past about half-way up on the phone controlled volume there is a lot of clipping. Besides not muting and the fader not working properly from CD/Radio/Aux sources, everything audio wise worked audio came from all 7 speakers and it sounded good, it just doesn't get loud enough.

The good news is that I didn't break anything (no magic smoke ), and everything functions normally with it back in the original configuration.

Con's
-Streaming is more of a marketing gimmick (TomatoSoup's idea, and confirmed) than useful, unless you enjoy your audio from the front speakers only and lacking in the bass department
-External mic that you have to clip somewhere in your car (didn't feel like taking my upper dash apart, so it's clipped on the parking brake trim about mid-thigh)

Verdict: Even though I couldn't get it to do exactly what I wanted, it's a great product, does its primary function very well, and the price isn't too bad for the features you get.

I think I'm going to try finding one of those 2009 USB radios from the Cobalt as my next project.

I think I'm going to try finding one of those 2009 USB radios from the Cobalt as my next project.

Sorry to hear it didn't work out, Brad. The promise of A2DP would've had me reconsidering my OEM BT install, especially since I got a Samsung BT headset that can be "morphed" with an included adapter to become a dongle and turn an MP3 player into a BT streaming unit.

That being said, I'd forgo the Cobalt/G5 radio in favor of a USB radio from the HHR. Whoever designed the radio for the Sky/Sol also designed the HHR radio. Bottom line, you can relocate the USB port on the HHR radio and use your original faceplate if you like, unlike the Cobalt/G5 radios where the USB port is part of the PCB and can't be moved.

the usb radio from the cobalt...I am the expert. I have one installed in my car...it is terrific but here is the downside...the chimes to the car when u have the keys in your ignition...and u open the drivers door and the engine is not running...it is quite loud. You can live with that...Also, the volume of the radio is deafening...u have to keep the volume very low. You can get used to that also...remember also that the LEDs are blue in the Chevy...actually all LEDs are identical in color for all GM vehicles...what changes the apparent color of the readout LEDs is the different color faceplate that covers the LED portion of the radio...the LEDs are basically a neutral color in all GM cars.

Meanwhile, inside my garage is sitting a Brand New Uninstalled USB radio from the SKY...of course it is not for sale.

Forgot..one more thing. When u r driving and put on your directions...the clicking is louder than normal.

That being said, I'd forgo the Cobalt/G5 radio in favor of a USB radio from the HHR. Whoever designed the radio for the Sky/Sol also designed the HHR radio. Bottom line, you can relocate the USB port on the HHR radio and use your original faceplate if you like, unlike the Cobalt/G5 radios where the USB port is part of the PCB and can't be moved.

That's good info to know. Is the radio part number for the HHR USB 25964501? Also, it's the 2009-2011 HHR radios? Doesn't seem like ebay has too many HHR radios .

the usb radio from the cobalt...I am the expert. I have one installed in my car...it is terrific but here is the downside...the chimes to the car when u have the keys in your ignition...and u open the drivers door and the engine is not running...it is quite loud. You can live with that...Also, the volume of the radio is deafening...u have to keep the volume very low. You can get used to that also...rembmber also that the LEDs are blue in the Chevy...actually all LEDs are identical in color for all GM vehicles...what changes the apparent color of the readout LEDs is the different color faceplate that covers the LED portion of the radio...the LEDs are basically a neutral color in all GM cars.

Meanwhile, sitting inside my garage is sitting a Brand New Uninstalled USB radio from the SKY...of course it is not for sale.

Forgot..one more thing. When u r driving and put on your directions...the clicking is louder than normal.

Did you install a non-monsoon radio in a monsoon car? I thought you could have them reprogrammed at the dealer with a tech II for your car's specific audio system?

That's good info to know. Is the radio part number for the HHR USB 25964501? Also, it's the 2009-2011 HHR radios? Doesn't seem like ebay has too many HHR radios .

I believe that's the original part number. I also have searches active for the following, which are all producing results: 20788673, 20788674, 25964502.

I missed out on a faceplate-less one from oemradios for $0.99... still kicking myself over that one... But I got mine for less than $60. If you're patient (and beat me at the bidding ) they come around pretty cheap. Moreso than the Sky USB radios... saw one sell on ebay in October for $400.

Quote:

Originally Posted by marlboromike

the chimes to the car when u have the keys in your ignition...and u open the drivers door and the engine is not running...it is quite loud.
Forgot..one more thing. When u r driving and put on your directions...the clicking is louder than normal.

Another reason to go with the HHR radio. According to multiple sites, GM changed radio suppliers in 2009 and some radios lost the ability to have the chimes adjusted. The HHR USB radios (RPO code UUI) retained the feature.

Quote:

Chime Level Adjustment:
The radio is used to adjust the vehicle's chime level. To change the volume level of the chime, press and hold push-button 6 with the ignition on and the radio power off.

The volume level will change from the normal level to loud, and LOUD will appear on the radio display. To change back to the default or normal setting, press and hold push-button 6 again. The volume level will change from the loud level to normal, and NORMAL will appear on the radio display.

Notice: Each time the chime volume is changed, three chimes will sound to indicate the new volume selected.

Here are the programs that do NOT have the chime volume adjustment feature.

It's great, you basically plug it into your cig adaptor, and into your 3.5mm jack and you bluetooth your music.

It's a bit of a mess with the cords and such, however if you got really creative, you could set this up so it would all be behind the radio. Run a power line into the glovebox and a 3.5m line by opening up the radio and soldering a connection to that point.

Did you install a non-monsoon radio in a monsoon car? I thought you could have them reprogrammed at the dealer with a tech II for your car's specific audio system?

I'm pretty sure that's what happened in MM's case. I installed the Sky radio in my Sol and had the opposite problem... Sky must've been Monsoon but my car wasn't, so the volume of everything was too low! I had to retrofit an amp instead.

I did try asking the dealer to reprogram the radio, but they were clueless as to how to do it. They called into GM too (they said) but no luck. GMTech has said it IS possible, but good luck on finding a dealer with a tech that knows how to do it!

...rembmber also that the LEDs are blue in the Chevy...actually all LEDs are identical in color for all GM vehicles...what changes the apparent color of the readout LEDs is the different color faceplate that covers the LED portion of the radio...the LEDs are basically a neutral color in all GM cars.

Just to clarify here... the display area is the same for all the radios (vacuum fluorescent display) and changes color per the faceplate filter. The LEDs however, that backlight the buttons and knobs, are not! The Sky radio's are amber, the Sol red, others green or white, etc.

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