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Seems as though you need more woofer... either more than one pair of Sub1500s, or simply more woofer. Personally I do not like the sound of the 2242 as much as I like the Sub1500 or W1500H, but they are nearly indestructible. In addition to having a different sound, they also require much bigger boxes.

Widget

The problem with smaller boxes is the higher excursion needed from the the woofer. This is a likely cause of failure.

I pulled out my other Sub1500 and it's spider is separating from the cone as well.
BUT, the spider has not ripped. The glue bead has detached from the surface of the spider and I can clearly see that the spider is not damaged at all.

Bummer, my bottle of 422 Loctite is hard as a rock so I guess it's shelve life is well under 6 years. I'm going to order some more and try and fix this one Sub1500.

Originally Posted by Mr. Widget

Seems as though you need more woofer... either more than one pair of Sub1500s, or simply more woofer. Personally I do not like the sound of the 2242 as much as I like the Sub1500 or W1500H, but they are nearly indestructible. In addition to having a different sound, they also require much bigger boxes.

Widget

No more room for additional speaker boxes in my living room. I have 4 more 18's stored but can't do it. I like the Sub1500 better for HT as well.

I have to admit that the failures on these two were most likely my fault.
see my quote from 2005 below. That amp puts out around 1300-1500 watts bridged into the 2 Sub1500's

Originally Posted by maxwedge

Thanks for the tip to R.S. Hughs.

I had one of my sub1500's spiders lift from the frame as well. I was drunk one night and was trying to get one of my pc's to output into my system and it wasn't working. So then I hit some button and there was sound, with everything maxed out, but I couldn't pull the sliders down fast enough on my board. Sounded like aliens were landing!!

I have 2 sub1500's in a single 5 cu ft sealed box powered by a QSC rmx2450 amp. 1 failed and the other is ok. The failed serial # is J864-05990, if anyone is keeping track.

Bummer, my bottle of 422 Loctite is hard as a rock so I guess it's shelve life is well under 6 years. .

I keep all my various Loctites and CA (Super) glues in the fridge, it greatly extends the shelf life. Just be sure to let it come up to room temp before you open it or you can get condensation on the inside of the bottle which is especially bad for CA.

Seem like the power level should not be an issue so long as they weren't bottoming out or over-excursioning, which you should have heard.

He ripped the coils off of the cones! That means they were trying to exceed xmax... as you must know these things are thunderously loud at high power levels. It can be hard to tell if that god awful racket is the cone tearing or your house protesting as the drywall is bending and flexing, the floor creaking, windows and doors rattling etc.

Originally Posted by maxwedge

I have to admit that the failures on these two were most likely my fault.
see my quote from 2005 below. That amp puts out around 1300-1500 watts bridged into the 2 Sub1500's

On a tangential subject... a single bridged amp running a pair of 4 ohm speakers? Is your amp stable into 2 ohms when bridged? Almost none are. Or did you wire the pair in series so that your amp saw an 8 ohm load?

Two of the six of mine have that opaque glue on the spider / cone / former junction and what ever it is, it does not penetrate the pourus materials at all, it sits on top like hot glue would and does not give a buttressed joint at all. You just know without some kind of rework it's going to fail and that sucks!

If we knew what the hell we were doing, we wouldn't call it research would we.

I think! Its the unnecessary power that was being used to not only hear the tones but feel them as it should be in an ideal situation where frequency response is smooth and both uniform over the seating area.

Common failure is not seeing what the frequency response is like against the LCRS or LCR where it should only tickly the bottom end where LCR hands it over to sub should be at the same frequency response with minimal power being used up.

Start running it without realizing you have sloping frequency dip starting at such and such frequency covering several bands then rising up to smooth with peak or two. But its that tone that tells the user something missing or maybe its not loud enough!?

If you looked the internal frequency against the in-room its miles apart if for some good reason it mirrors what it is on RTA or spectrum lab then with all fairness you hit the jackpot.

The sub as it is, is playing super fine its when you move away from Mr Null sigh I wish there was an anti-spray for this issue. Only way around it is more of the same sub to counterattack the issue and yes up goes the cost for that narrow band limited LFE.1 channel that seems to be the biggest pain the home cinema ass to get truly sorted!

Boast the issue on the sub is like the death sentence for the sub it will limit the headroom and place critical clipping and bottoming out before you’ve had chance to get a few years enjoyment out of it.

As for other mechanical workings of the sub that’s down to lousy cheap craftsmanship and we should go after them with soldering iron.

Easy to overdo xmax if 1) you're not running a sealed box, 2) are playing
content below system resonance (which one might tend to do showing these off),
but yeah... kind of like running low on air in a 40-series tire (difficult to tell until
it's too late).

It's uh... uh... it's down there somewhere, let me take another look...

He ripped the coils off of the cones! That means they were trying to exceed xmax... as you must know these things are thunderously loud at high power levels. It can be hard to tell if that god awful racket is the cone tearing or your house protesting as the drywall is bending and flexing, the floor creaking, windows and doors rattling etc.

On a tangential subject... a single bridged amp running a pair of 4 ohm speakers? Is your amp stable into 2 ohms when bridged? Almost none are. Or did you wire the pair in series so that your amp saw an 8 ohm load?

Widget

Series for 8 ohms.
I think that the amp was most likely clipping that night but I was too busy grabbing for the sliders on my mixing board to look.