looking for left hand tap and dies in 5/8ths by 18 thread count for tie rod and drag link for T's and A's and model B cars with hair pins or radius rods. I won't really use them if I'm going to use wish bones,eh? Don't know for sure.Don't think I would. but I know I'll need them for tie rod and drag link tho. Also need manual operated vertical milling machine and lathe. I think a turret would be a bit much. Should be in good shape. Shippings gonna be costly though. Lemme know. Mikey

I have been ordering my taps dies and reamers from a place in Canada for about 30 years. They use high speed steel and the quality is amazing! Sometime I will even tap more than 1 hole with thier taps...... hehe

If you are looking for a great quality tap reamer or die try Taylor Tool ---> www.taylortool.com . They have a huge stock selection but also manufacture specials. So no matter what the size they can most likely do it.

There sales staff is so great and knowlegable, if you are having a hard time finding the part or are just really confused and need some help call (or email) Colleen. She has been working with taps dies and reamers for over 40 years and can more than likely anwser your questions. the number is 519-658-9378 (there is a toll free one, but I dunno what it is) and her email is sales@taylortool.com

If you are using 7/8 DOM steel tube and don't have a lathe, a tip I posted in the WIKI...

How to build hairpins. I use 7/8 DOM steel tubing for hairpins and steering components. If you have high horsepower and big tires you should probably use 1 " DOM for the rear. Use a piece of cardboard to mock up the design and shape. Make sure rear hairpins will not hit the body during suspension movements. I use my Harbor freight pipe bender to make the bends. You need extra length tubing to fit in the bender to get the bend in the right place. Since I don't have a big lathe I cut the pieces one inch longer than the finished size For the threaded ends. I use a large slow right angle electricians drill and start with the smallest bit that will just remove metal Use plenty of tapping or thread cutting lubricant. I keep changing bits to remove a little at a time until I get to the size required for the tap. In most of mine I use 5/8 threadesd clevis or heim joints. I next drill that extra 1 inch with a 5/8 bit just that extra one inch. Now I use the tap and that extra 1 inch bore aligns the tap and you can make good straight threads. Sometimes you have to back the tap out after a few turns to clean out the chips, when you have tapped as deep as you can, cut off that extra one inch, re drill with the correct size for the tap then tap the extended length. If you have trouble holding the tubing in a vise you can weld a piece of scrap metal to that extra inch, just have to be careful the tubing doesn't slip when you are doing the final drill and tap process. I lay out the pieces on my cardboard patern and figure where the intersection points will be and set up the tubing notcher and use a holesaw and plent of oil to make the cut. I bolt the notcher to a steel top table and use scrap pieces of angle iron or clamps to hold the pieces to make the cuts. prep the areas to be welded. Tig welding works best

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