It turns out we’re too dainty with our ramen stateside. Ivan Orkin would have us approach our bowls more fast and furious; he says ramen is meant to be eaten while it’s hot. Otherwise, we might as well being eating “baby back ribs with a fork and knife, constantly folding [our] napkin, fingers clean.”

This makes ramen one of the few foods we’ve co-opted as fast food where we’re just not quick—enough—with it.*

The chef-owner of Ivan Ramen in Tokyo is back in his hometown New York City for a spell and will take over the kitchen at Momofuku Noodle Bar for one night only. Anyone who wants to check out how he throws down will want to keep July 17 in mind; three types of ramen will be available at dinner from 5:30 p.m. to close.