Category Archives: Patterns

The steuchlein is quintessential headwear for 16th c. German women of virtually all classes. You see steuchlein on Landsknecht trossfrau, farmer’s wives, and burger’s wives—in other words, married German women. I am wearing a steuchlein in the image on the right. A steuchlein is composed of four parts: Umbinderlein – linen strip at hairline Unterhauben – linen undercap Wulst – round… (more…)

One of the iconic German hats seen in paintings and woodcuts is an oversized, brimmed hat with cuts/overlaps in the fold of the brim. They appear frequently in Cranach paintings, for example. To my knowledge this hat has no name, so I’m naming it the German Split-Brim Beret! Knitted versions of this hat, or ones very like it, appear in… (more…)

My son needs a new wams (doublet). He’s been happily wearing two doublets for the past three years, but they were made from commercial patterns and it’s time to see if he’ll go for something more historically accurate (he’s nearly 10 years old, so the days of dressing him in clothing he does not like are over). And I just… (more…)

One of the few extant pieces of early 16th century female garb (1521) remaining today is Mary of Hapsburg’s wedding dress. Mary was the granddaughter of Holy Roman Emperor Maximillian. The gown and chemise are housed in the Hungarian National Museum. The hemd (chemise) may or may not go with the gown (according to museum docents), but it is believed… (more…)

The lovely 16th century Saxon court gowns, made popular by Lucas Cranach, his son, and his workshop, are a study in feminine charms. They are curvy and luxurious, emphasizing the swell of the breasts, flattening the midriff, and creating gracious, flowing lines to the ground. The Saxon court gown is also one of the more complicated German styles to create,… (more…)

Tabards (wappenrock) are popular for SCA fighters because they’ll cover up less-than-period armor and just generally make one look good without a lot of effort. And while my fighter (Gregor) has plenty of good things to wear, he tends to go back again and again to the tabard for comfort and ease. There’s just one problem — tabards aren’t something… (more…)

After months of research, I’ve successfully managed to create a lovely “goldhaube” (golden cap) that looks like the caps seen in the many Lucas Cranach paintings of 16th century Germany. During my research and trials I had many people contact me to ask about it, and I’m happy to share what I have learned. In addition to the pattern, instructions,… (more…)

I’ve had several people ask for the pattern for my dark red German goldwork gown, which is based off Dorothea Kannengiesser Meyer’s gown as painted by Hans Holbein the Younger in 1516. To make a basic version of this gown without any fancy embroidery, you’ll need the following: 6.5 yards of outer material, such as wool (60″ wide) 1 yard… (more…)

Last summer I came across a photo of Prince Elector Moritz of Saxony’s Parade Cloak, which is an extant mid-16th century garment lovingly preserved and restored. Here’s a photo of it: Sadly, this was the largest photo I could find. I found a closeup of the collar area at the Staatliche Kuntsammlungen Dresden museum, which had it on display in… (more…)

For Pennsic this year I packed seven smocks for myself — some call them chemises or white linen underdresses, the German might say unterhemd (underdress) or Wäsche (the wash). My smocks are in a variety of styles and weights of linen, all worn before with success and all in good repair. Did I wear all seven over the course of… (more…)