Fascinating food in New York and occasionally farther afield

Dua Kafe

"A sponge cake soaked in three kinds of milk" is a common dessert in New York, hardly unexpected at a cafe so close to Loisaida. But only here, where the walls are hung with dozens of photos of Albanian celebrities, have I ever seen "tri leçe." The moistness of the cake became apparent the moment I cut through the caramel.

Also shown: my previous course, a slice of spinach byrek with yogurt; a portrait of Gjergj Kastrioti (the national hero better known as Skanderbeg) overlooking a video of the Kosovar singer Nora Istrefi.