First check the exhaust vent to the outside do you have a strong flow of air?Is the lint passage free of lint? Are the blower vanes clear of lint?

A simple test for the sensors, bypassing the wires to the thermosensor and operating the dryer to test. If the heat now stays on the sensor is usually bad. Also if the flame backs up the safety thermo can kick out to protect against fires. Usually due to plugged lint somewhere.

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Bad igniter? When you 1st try it the gas valve will give enough gas that you would get the burner lit if the igniter was glowing red. If you're desperate you can light the igniter area w/ an aim n flame, but you definitely want to do that w/ caution and crank up your t-stat so the furnace stays on awhile Cuz you'll have to do it again for heat or buy an igniter($40 or so)

if you hear the valve clicking but no gas the valve is bad.when the burner lights theres a probe that senses that it is lit and sends a microvoltage back to the controller to tell its lit.check to make sure all ground wires are grounded to a clean metal surface.

It may be your dryer vent piping. If the piping from the dryer to the outside of the house is clogged with lint (which happens periodically) the dryer cannot get rid of the heat generated by the gas burner. When the temperature reaches a certain level the high limit switch opens and shuts the burner off. The switch closes again after the dryer cools down. Check the lint filter and all the vent piping for any obstructions and clean out thoroughly. This should solve your problem. Hope this helps.

get in a gas fitter to properly diagnose the problem,
igniters in ovens normally click / flash as that ignites gas quicker than a hot wire so I suspect that is problem 1
problem 2 indicates that there is a gas flow problem, probably a faulty hose or regulator
what ever it is , gas is not in the domain of diy so an accredited professional gas fitter is required to do the fix

Watch the
igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the
gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there
may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern
gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when
energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are
defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because
it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to
replace both (all) of them at the same time.

There is a thermoelectric eye that says it is OK to keep the gas burner on. If this sensor is defective or blocked from "seeing" the gas flame is properly lit, it will turn off the gas flow (safety) override solenoid. With the unit unplugged make sure that the optical path on the upper right (1:30 CW position) flame tube inside sensor window is clean. The rattle you hear is probably the safety gas shut-off solenoid engaging. If you need more help, please ask -- SWT