Just finished reading the latest edition of Rock and the two page picture of Steve Moon on pitch 3 of Rutger Hauer is freaking awesome.... The picture and Francois's TR paint an inspiring picture. All I need to do now is learn how to climb 23's...

On 2/03/2010 egosan wrote:>On 2/03/2010 mikllaw wrote:>>well, one person knew...>>I think you are underestimating the level of geekiness in the climbing>community. There maybe a few beer swilling bogans, but they are the minority.> For most of us all the beer in Adelaide wouldn't be enough to blot out>our geeky natures.

Has anyone else read the book "Do Androids Dream Of Electric Sheep?" ? I thought it was much better than the movie.

I watched the movie again last night. Amusingly it's set in the grand future of 2019. So apparently in 9 years time we should have flying cars, perfect humanoid replicants and have civilized other planets. I think we might be a little behind the 8 ball. They didn't have iPhones though... and everyone smokes indoors - even in the workplace.

On 11/07/2010 Miguel75 wrote:>Just finished reading the latest edition of Rock and the two page picture>of Steve Moon on pitch 3 of Rutger Hauer is freaking awesome.... The picture>and Francois's TR paint an inspiring picture. All I need to do now is learn>how to climb 23's...

I was browsing through that same issue yesterday: that picture is indeed awesome! Somehow I was thinking, this could be me! ME!

On 11/07/2010 Miguel75 wrote:>Just finished reading the latest edition of Rock and the two page picture>of Steve Moon on pitch 3 of Rutger Hauer is freaking awesome.... The picture>and Francois's TR paint an inspiring picture. All I need to do now is learn>how to climb 23's...

On 12/07/2010 ajfclark wrote:>(Do Androids Dream of) Electric Sheep is one of my favourite screen savers...>http://electricsheep.org/>>I think Phillip K Dick's stories are better told as books; A Scanner Darkly>was also better as a book than a film ...

I agree, I think it's because he really goes into the characters' psyches to an extent that's simply not possible on film. I have quite a few of his books on my shelf at home, probably my favourite is VALIS.

My two Replicant friends, Alex and Dominik, suggested we did Rudger Hauer over the weekend. The weather was good in the Blueys on both days but I had to work on Saturday sanding 210 meters of blackbutt for my carpenter Richie: so Sunday was the day. I re-read this very trip report before we left and I was curious to see if my perception of the climb would have changed (would change? will have changed? whatever).

Dominik was particularly keen to try this one as he missed out the last time. For reasons I can't remember exactly, we did the climb at the time with the diminutive, yet impressively muscular and sparkling, Replicant Shaz (better known a Shazza to some of you).

Three years ago, the climb was graded (105m, 20, 22, 23, 19) and now, according to 2010 edition of the Blue Mountains Climbing (BMC) guide, it stands as (105m, 19, 21, 23, 19). I think with hindsight, the latter grade is indeed closer to reality.

The first pitch is definitely not a 20 but is very consistent over the whole length: pumpy on big holds but offers no particular difficulties. Alex did found it pumpy but hardly broke a sweat seconding it. The second pitch was almost exactly as I remembered it with a hard crux just below the belay. Alex lead that one and to Dominik's despair ("Nooo....") took a break just before finishing. I think Alex regretted a little his decision (un petit peu).

The money pitch was and still is the third pitch. Dominik was in charge of this one since he missed out on the first time. If you ask him, he'd probably tell you that he's not too proud of his performance but, on the other hand, he loved it: "Fantastic pitch, loved it". BTW, the photo of Steve Moon on page 281 of the BMC guide in not only very impressive but shows exactly where the crux of the pitch is. By then, you are pumped after a good 20 meters without rest and you face a slight overhang veering right to the belay ledge. This one deserves its grade and a few stars next to it.

The last pitch is still only a formality: big holds (mainly iron stone) to freedom.

I don't think Rutger Hauer has seen much traffic since I last wrote my trip report 3 years ago. The footpath along the cliff is now, well, inexistent and there was no trace of chalk anywhere. Now it's all chalked up cos Alex has got some weird fetish. So, all you have to do now is follow the chalk marks. You won't regret it.

François, great TR as usual! You are right, I wasn't happy with my P3 performance. But then again, why complain? You are out there in one of the most beautiful parts of the world with your best friends, climbing amazing pitches (thanks ML and SM!) having lollies on the ledge. I mean, really, is it important to tick a route, if you have all of the above? Hmmm, I guess yes :-) Anyway, life's good, this no one can take that away from us!