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Written by

Amanda Antinore

The sea scallops arrive with beautiful grill marks, a variant from the mainstream sear. They are melt-in-your-mouth fork-tender and finished with notes of char, which pair agreeably with their delicate sweetness. They sit atop a creamy and terrific sauce of sharp feta cheese and smoky applewood bacon. A large bed of orzo with spinach and tomatoes is an accompanying starch. / AMANDA ANTINORE

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If you liked Hamlin Station, you might want to try... Park Avenue Pub. 650 Park Ave.; (585) 461-4140. Fine dining choices in a casual setting with a nice outdoor area. Castaways Restaurant. 244 Lake Road, Webster; (585) 323-2943. Favorite summer spot with great views, higher-end entrees and casual setting. Stoneyard Bar and Grill. 1 Main St., Brockport; (585) 637-3390. With a great view of the Erie Canal and a relaxing but upscale interior, this is a nice stop for higher-end casual food.

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Trains haven’t been making stops at this renovated locomotive station since the mid-1970s, but there is plenty of activity going on inside the Hamlin Station Bar and Grill, which is busy rolling out reinvented classics.

Owners Christine and Kevin Manna opened in November 2010 after 13 months of renovations.

A fully stocked bar and humble yet well-balanced wine selection is available at the bar, 50 feet of pinewood and handmade by Christine’s woodworking brother, Anthony Valenti of Niskayuna, Schenectady County.

The night we were there was wing night, and it drew a plentiful crowd. Initially, we settled in at the bar and enjoyed a round of drinks and an order of wings with sauces on the side. The chicken was steamy and tender on the inside with a nice crisp skin. Their hot and medium sauces were rightfully spicy, while an original sweet and tangy Golden sauce was an improved honey mustard.

After shifting to our table we gazed over the dinner menu of conventional classics but with distinct preparations. All entrées are served with a house salad.

We begin our meal began with two appetizers: the Vermont butter creamed goat cheese and Sicilian calamari.

Acidic and sweet house-made marinara was matched sublimely with a tangy, buttery goat cheese round, slightly softened from a quick bake. The simple combination resulted in a perfect alliance of flavors. A loose interpretation of garlic crostini was welcomingly soft and chewy, making it much easier to eat than traditional crumbly sliced baguette.

The Sicilian calamari comprises lightly breaded and fried squid, hot banana pepper rings and Mediterranean olives. Precisely tender squid was tossed in garlic-infused olive oil that also coated the bottom of the dish, useful for mopping up lingering pieces of peppers and olives. It was similarly served with the restaurant’s robust marinara.

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Our main course took a surf and turf direction as we opted for grilled prime rib of beef and sea scallops. Available one of three ways, we selected the beef moody bleu style, crowned with bleu cheese and bacon. Our request for medium-rare appeared instead as medium-well. When our server discovered the mistake she offered both that the dish be remade and a complimentary dessert — a highly impressive consolation. Nevertheless, we kept ours because the bold, smoky flavors countered the over-doneness of the prime rib. Plus, a delightful distraction came from our choice side of creamy garlic mashed potatoes.

The sea scallops arrived with beautiful grill marks, a variant from the mainstream sear. They were melt-in-your-mouth fork-tender and finished with notes of char, which paired agreeably with their delicate sweetness. They sat atop a creamy sauce of sharp feta cheese and smoky applewood bacon that easily could have been excessive, but in fact was terrific. A large bed of orzo with spinach and tomatoes was an accompanying starch.

We couldn’t resist dessert and ordered the peanut butter pie and three-cheese cheesecake. Both were utterly light and airy.

The peanut butter and chocolate collaboration hardly goes wrong, and here it went very right. An extremely light peanut butter mousse sat atop a chocolate cookie crust, so buttery and crisp. It was coated in chocolaty fudge and crushed peanuts and peanut butter cups — the ultimate alignment of sweet and salty.

Our server was engaging and knowledgeable, showing a real sense of pride in the food and the restaurant. It was apparent that Hamlin Station’s customers come from near and far to enjoy their culinary creations and to relish specials, like Wednesday steak night, featuring a 12-ounce New York strip, garlic mashed potatoes and house salad for under $10. Or 2 for $30 Thursdays including two entrees, appetizer platter, house salads, one glass of house wine or draft beer for each guest.