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belgrade fashion week: jovana marković

i’ve expressed a little frustration at this season’s edition of belgrade fashion week, and that continues into the right now. seeing jovana marković present her range during the a/w 2013 exhibition was exciting, as she was one of the few names of with which we’re familiar (although she definitely wasn’t in her usual, dark balkan groove, for which i’m generally more appreciative and with her; see s/s 2012 & s/s 2013), but the coverage was quite minimal. sigh. so we’ll have to do most of the work ourselves, or maybe instead we’ll just skim through quickly on our way to an event that wants us to talk about. hmpf.

anyway, as per the norm, the seasons seemed flipped from last season to this, and save for a little bit of her trademark black, the designer appeared to be grabbing at all of the acid hues that seem to be adorning the shops of late–or, as wannabe magazine put it (trans.), “(m)aterials are natural, bright neon colours with a metallic sheen, [with a] snaking line of interesting cuts.” and in lieu of that dark, rather stiff outerwear we saw last season, this one was all about the flippy lightness, with plenty of silk or viscose strapless frocks sliced with those classic menswear-style shirting pieces, and various footballers’ girlfriend-style minis to accompany them.

and as ever serving as one of my favourite critical analysts (particularly as they’re representing the event! and you’d think they would be all ass-kissing, but no! how much do you looove the serbians?), the bfw site was on-hand to slam the designer’s execution, reflecting that (trans.) “the big problem is the design and processing of materials, which are cumbersome and extremely imperfect, [as though they] have the intention to remain theoretical.” i’d say it was done up okay, but honestly, oftentimes reminded me of high street-type stuff, and in my opinion, the greatest drawback wasn’t that so much as it was the fact that…are ms. marković’s customers going to go for such a shakeup? i mean, i found it cute, but i wasn’t on about it the way i was her work from last season, and if i were just casually glancing by, i wouldn’t have even known it were the same designer.