Another upgrade has been done.
Domino throttle ...... a linear throttle

This was the stinky half throttle I had before:

This is Domino:

The wiring is the following:

I didn't use the micro-switch for the e-brake and to connect it to the Adaptto controller I placed the white to the ground, the black to the throttle signal and the light blue connected to +5V.
In the throttle limits it seems that Adaptto do not like an upper limit (full throttle) > 4V but I have set it there and I have a very smooth operation.

Here is how it looks on the Bomber:

Now is the time for some wheelies

Last edited by bigbore on May 10, 2018 12:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

nice!
i have once had my max-e re set its throttle linear on me, all by itself.
i noticed when it was surging, checked and the output signal was gone crazy again. re-did the linear funtion and has been all good since.

I also have the domino throttle together with a shimano saint which has about the same lever length as this hope has. yes it could be longer, but it doesn't feel uncofortable.

for my next bike think i will thake the Magura MT5e. It has a longer 4-finger lever and integrated e-brake switch. Additionally it has a ball at the end of the lever that is something you want to have if you plan to make the bike registered.

madin88 wrote:I also have the domino throttle together with a shimano saint which has about the same lever length as this hope has. yes it could be longer, but it doesn't feel uncofortable.

for my next bike think i will thake the Magura MT5e. It has a longer 4-finger lever and integrated e-brake switch. Additionally it has a ball at the end of the lever that is something you want to have if you plan to make the bike registered.

does it have a little fluid level inspection window on the levers?
this is a requirement here in Aus for registration.

MOTOR UPGRADE .....
This is my motor upgrade from stock 5403 to QS 205.
I chose the extra/V3 type with winding 30X4T 11.39kV hoping it will deliver a good amount of torque without overheating.
To center the motor in the swingarm I need a spacer of 5.5mm on the left side and one of 7.2mm on the right.
My idea was to prolong that plates on the swingarm so they will work as torque plates when the light blue bolts are tightened.

I will need to build also two new plates on the outer side of the swingarm because the QS205 motor shaft has a M16 thread.

This is the tightening procedure that I designed:
First of all I need to adjust the position of the motor for the correct chain tension, then tighten the two light blue bolts (at this point the shaft of the motor is blocked in the swingarm and can not rotate backward) the last thing is tightening the nuts on the motor shaft.
Once the shaft is locked in a regenerative braking position when regenerative brake is applied the reaction torque is provided by the swingarm.

Mounting QS205 motor ...
I'm pleased with how it turned out motor assembly in the swingarm.
The torque plates works as expected and the motor is centered better than the stock 5403.
There are two potential problems that bother me, the first is that the brake disc bolts may rub on the large bunch of wires coming out from the shaft and the second is the little distance that there is between the brake caliper and the left side of the motor. The gap is about 1mm.
For the brake disc bolts I thought to countersink the holes in the brake disk to house the flat-head screws.

The brake disc will be mounted with a carbon disc of 1mm thickness that flush the recess of 1mm in the center of the brake disc and I will use the brake disc spacer provided with the motor.

Countersink the disc brake holes:

Tried to mount this 2.3mm thick disc spacer :

But reducing the clearance between swingarm and disc is not a good idea.

So I went back to the first 1mm thick disc spacer and also I filed the edge of the screws in the center near the shaft.
This is what I'm going to use to do Adaptto autodetect then I will open the motor and will remove the spare set of halls/thermo wires provided with the motor.

After motor autodetect done for both the main and spare halls sets all went in the correct way and now I will open the motor to remove the spare set of halls wires to see if is possible to use the motor on the Bomber swingarm without wrecking halls and phase wires.
This is what I have just after the first autodetect:

Motor opened:

Bearings look good:

Here are all the parts finished.
This is what I have built to protect the phase and halls wires from rubbing on the brake disc bolts:

I'm now ready with my next upgrade to this wonderful e-bike Real carbon fiber side covers
I've been working at these covers from 5 months and it took very long because of the little free time I have in this period.
These covers are made with pre-preg carbon fiber polymerized in autoclave as always when I decide to make something new with this nice material ... there isn't much to say apart the fact that I also decided to replace the screws with titanium ones ... only for the bling factor.
This is the molded "L" just out of the molds:

Here is the cut panels:

Side covers ready:

They weight only 510 gr:

557gr with foam pads and the stock are ....

And finally on the bike....

Last edited by bigbore on May 10, 2018 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

The battery is still the same you sent with the Bomber and the charge setup is still what you set. I was wrong about the current flowing through the charge connector; it's a bit lower at 26A yesterday I checked and this is what I have during charge:

Last edited by bigbore on May 10, 2018 12:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

The A rating of the Speakon connectors is overstated.
There are ones with brass contacts which are rated for 30A RMS, and ones with copper contacts rated for 40A per contact.
I usually use the 4-pole speakon with brass, so 60A in total, and the wires coming from the coil/PSU have 5mm².

If i now take the full current from my EATON (about 1730W, 33A), and charging an empty battery for an hour or longer, i almost burn my fingers on the connector and the wire also gets quite hot.