When Emperor Tenmu established Buddhism as the nation's official
religion back in 676 AD, he issued a nikushoku kinshirei banning the consumption
of meat and fish. Since meat was never a part of the Japanese diet and
only coastal residents had regular access to fish, it was a pretty token
decree; vegetables were and remained the staple food. Six centuries later,
Zen monk Dogen returned from a trip to China with a set of precepts that
beefed up Tenmu's (long forgotten) original ruling to create shojin
ryori, a vegetarian diet based on key Buddhist themes of compassion and
self denial.

The theory, at its most pious, is that we grease loving heathens know
only temporary fulfillment. A big slab of pizza can plug our bellies,
but will soon leave us feeling empty, both physically and spiritually.
The Zen meal goes deeper. Instead of rocking up to a fancy restaurant
and ordering whatever their taste buds crave, Zen disciples take an ascetic
approach and forgo extravagance and instant gratification. The fat laden,
heavy flavored grub of most Western dishes are deemed poisons for the
body and spirit. Food in Zen theology is no more than a medicine to stave
off disease. This medicine is delivered kaiseki style-one tiny
dish at a time, spread over two or three hours, with ingredients carefully
chosen to deliver the essential life sustaining nutrients without excess.
The aim is not to fill but to fulfill.

Then comes the rule of fusesho, the Buddhist version of "thou
shalt not kill." Unfortunately most monks draw no distinction between
human life and that of an animal, an insect or even a plant. For the shojin
ryorist this poses the obvious problem of excluding everything from the
diet. The compromise is to create a delicate balance between killing and
dying. Take as little as possible, appreciate the sacrifice and be certain
not to waste even a grain of rice. To avoid excess cooking, and therefore
wasted food, restaurants demand reservations up to a week in advance.
And since the chefs take painstaking care to avoid waste, leaving food
on your plate is taboo, although, says Ayako Nishii, shojin chef at the
Sanko in temple in Koganei, "It's never happened."

To the burger munching masses a gentle trickle of "medicinal"
veggie dishes with no room for selection may sound less than tempting.
In fact, with nearly 4,000 golden arches and Japan's status as
the world's largest consumer of fish revealing the depth of dietary
change, the old emperor and monk must be spinning in their graves. But
in Tokyo's handful of shojin establishments business is brisk.
Sanko in's Nishii says "Buddhism has lost its deep meaning
for many Japanese, but shojin ryori appeals not only to Buddhists and
other vegetarians but to anyone interested in Japan." Most of our
modern Japanese food stems from shojin ryori, and despite its austere
roots, shojin ryori draws fans with its flavor. Shojin chefs go to great
lengths to combine ingredients in novel ways to maximize taste, color
and nutrition. A successful platter will feature six tastes, five colors,
five cooking methods and three virtues (lightness, freshness and care)
according to traditional shojin theory.

The ideology may have all but disappeared, but luckily for us the food
has survived. Check out this slice of Japanese culinary heritage with
our guide to Tokyo's finest shojin restaurants:

Itosho

The New York Times called this a "superb dining experience"
with a "lustily seasoned, opulent feast." It's true.
All the traits of a typical shojin restaurant are here: private tatami
rooms, beautiful lacquer trays, prices to choke on, but it's the
grub that makes this place special. Peanut or edamame tofu and the house
original deep fried veg in crisped rice batter form part of the 13 plate
procession of chow you've probably never seen or heard of before.

Ryuzo Furukawa, proprietor and cook of this exquisite shojin joint,
trained at Kyoto's Manpukuji temple, and his restaurant could have
been plucked from those picturesque streets. The stone corridor, dotted
with miniature gardens, runs between eight immaculate rooms decorated
simply but beautifully. As with all shojin ryori, the dishes change with
the season, but expect chilled sesame tofu, vegetable tempura and a trio
of soups among the nine offerings.

Daigo
Maybe someone mistook ascetic for aesthetic when they created this elegant,
eye pleasing eatery whose 16 course, ¥18,000 sets suggest indulgence
more than self denial. Still, the filthy rich clientele turn up for the
kimono wrapped staff, pristine tatami rooms and miniature garden view
rather than any spiritual enlightenment. Just as well, since the ryori
here is only tenuously shojin with fish stock and onions spicing up the
menu and the religious stuff left to the monks in the grand (unrelated)
Seishoji temple next door.

Sanko in
Get more Zen for your yen at the most authentic shojin spot in town. Up
to 40 diners share a large, airy dining room in the back garden of a picturesque
Buddhist nunnery. Each setting begins with a bowl of the highest quality
whipped green tea and a bean paste cracker-a perfect bitter/sweet
match up. Gradually the rest of the meal unfolds, with the chef explaining
each dish as it arrives. In truly orthodox fashion, if you cancel a reservation
at the Sanko in, the nuns will reheat your food and consume it themselves
over the course of several days.

New Page 1BuylineShibuya’s Zenmall (29-4 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku; 03-3770-1641), known for offering large clothing for men, is holding a two-day Early Bird Pre-Summer Sale. The sale will take place on the mornings of April 12 (Sat) and 13 (Sun) for three hours (9am-noon) each day. During these times, nearly everything will be marked 20-80 percent off. Some of the bargains include suits with a spare pair of pants for \9,800 (sizes 3-8L), and summer casual jackets for \8,000 (3-6L). Imported designer suits by makers like Calvin Klein and Boss are also marked down to \39,000 and \59,000, respectively. Those who spend over \10,000 can take part in the Cash Grabbing Contest, where shoppers can dig into a box full of cash. Spend over \30,000 for two chances to grab, and \50,000 for three. Don't miss this rare opportunity, as it could be one of the few chances for those looking to buy large sizes in Japan, especially at affordable prices.