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There might be access to the back of the tank. Look underneath first and see if you can see the back of the tank. There might be an access from inside the RV. Look for a panel that might be screwed or velcro'd in place. The tank is about 20" deep, so look about that far from the sidewall.

Are you sure the element is burned out? Perhaps your E.C.O. (energy cut off) was tripped by the heat. They switch off power when temps get too high. Unfortunately in older models the E.C.O. is on the back of the tank, near the electric element. Newer models have them on the tank front.

Making progress I looked at you tube video and was able to check element for resistance and got 10.4 ohms which I believe means it's a GOOD element unless there is ohms coming from circuit board or something as I left black and white wires attached to screws in element while taking reading

Logically I think my next step would be to learn how to check for voltage at the element and turn power on and verify if any electric is getting to the element

I'll learn that and try it next

Any suggestions as to why this failed Two days ago appreciated I was using a lot of hot water from out side shower to fill bucket to wash RV and next day no hot water

If you drained the tank, it could have overheated and tripped the E.C.O. It could be the issue or the thermostat since element tests O.K. When you turn on the electric element, are you flipping a 120 v type light switch or a 12 v switch? If a 12 v switch, then there's a relay in the circuit that could be the issue.

You need to take the wires off when you take the reading, otherwise you will get a secondary path measured. You need only take one wire off - if you have any resistance at that point you will have a good element.

Since the WH switch looks the same as the water pump switch next to it which we know is 12 v, I'm guessing the WH switch is 12 v controlling a relay. Before tearing into the panel, check for 120 v at the WH when the switch is on. If it's not present and you've tripped and reset the circuit breaker for the 120 v WH circuit, then you'll have to remove the panel or access the back and see where the wires from the WH switch lead. They should go to a relay that does the actual switching of the 120 v power to the WH.

Most electric water heaters are shut off at the breaker panel to make sure you don't turn it on without water. If there is no water in the water heater - DON'T TURN IT ON! Check the breaker panel and see if you have one marked 'water heater'...and yes, it you have one wire off and still measure 10.4 ohms, the element is good.

I have verified that the element is good after removing both white and black wires at element and two ground wires attached to tank. Got 10.4 ohms at element and zero ohms between black lead at element and tank (ground)

don't know where to go from here. If you look at above photos you will see that there is a relay at back of tank inside element cover. can this go bad causing no AC power or is it the control board? I don't seem to have an ECO at the rear but see photo and you see an eco at front but that seems to attach to the gas valve? This is a atwood gc10a 4e model

I want to mention that when the electric side of heater failed I was using about 10 gallons of Hot water to wash RV. I read in other posts about Hi Limit over load thermostat going bad. Could it be that high usage could have created this problem and how do I check cause of failure of having any 120 volt across the white and black wires on the element?
I don't seem to have an ECO for electric but there is a relay at back and a control board at front

Maybe this can help you. The ECO and Tstat for the 120v element are on the tank above the element. The ones I've seen have a black wire connecting to the Tstat the a short jumper from Tstat to ECO then the black wire continues to element.http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Atwoo...er-Service.pdf