Anatoli Boukreev

Anatoli Boukreev was a Russian Kazakhstani mountaineer who made ascents of 10 of the 14 eight-thousander peaks, i.e., peaks above 8,000 m (26,247 ft), without supplemental oxygen. From 1989 through 1997, he made 18 successful ascents of peaks above 8000 m.

Boukreev had a reputation as an elite mountaineer in international climbing circles for summiting K2 in 1993 and Mount Everest via the North Ridge route in 1995. He became even more widely known for his role in saving climbers during the 1996 Mount Everest disaster.