Egypt cruise: Alone on the Nile

In the gilded, graciously old-fashioned surroundings of the Mena House hotel we sat almost alone at the sunken bar and watched the violinist stifle a yawn as he played. It's been a flat time for tourism in Egypt since the revolution of early 2011, but while visitors may well pause for thought before going, there are currently no Foreign Office restrictions in place and the Egyptians themselves are intent on welcoming their guests with open arms and looking after them even better than before.

After a tiring day's travel, peace descended at Mena House, comprising the historic Palace and modern Garden wings, along with a palpable feeling that we had been transported to a bygone age, reinforced by the knowledge that the likes of Winston Churchill and Field Marshal Montgomery had slept in the vast, lofty and wonderfully retro rooms and suites upstairs.

Built as a royal hunting lodge in 1869 and a hotel since the 1880s, Mena House and its famously situated golf course stand in the shadow of the Pyramids of Giza, nowadays encroached on one side by the unsightly urban sprawl of greater Cairo, unfettered on the other by the vastness of the Western Desert.

Hazy in the evening light, the pyramids had momentarily appeared on the horizon as we crawled our way through the shambles that is Cairo's traffic system (and the near-shambles, frankly, that is Cairo itself), all the while listening intently as our tour manager described how he and his colleagues had calmly managed to evacuate 500 clients in four days when the revolution took hold. He talked of his pride in the peaceful uprising itself and his joy at being able, at last, to take part in the country's political process, sentiments echoed by everyone to whom we spoke.

By the time the Duncan family arrived, night had fallen. Next morning, the only surviving wonder of the Seven Wonders of the World made a startling reappearance.

"Wake up," someone called, "there's a giant pyramid out there." The Great Pyramid of Cheops, framed by the bedroom window, was indeed a gripping sight and had all four of us instantly hooked. The story of ancient Egypt, its gods and kings, tombs and temples, hieroglyphic puzzles and stunning discoveries, is hardly a difficult one to sell, even to my offspring; when recounted by our academic yet communicative Cairo guide, it quickly came alive.

At breakfast in the hotel's splendid Khan-al Khalili restaurant we found plenty of British and European fellow travellers, but the crowds and the queues at the major sights were gone. It was a doddle, at the Great Pyramid, to be among the first 150 visitors per day allowed to penetrate the limestone monolith, then bend double and climb vertiginously upwards and into the tiny tomb at its core.

In the enigmatic, dusty Egyptian Museum – now firmly on every tourist itinerary – it took seconds rather than the usual 10 minutes to stand before the mask of Tutankhamun. In front of the Narmer Palette, carved in 3200 BC to celebrate the unification of Upper and Lower Egypt, we paused for thought. "We are valley people, not desert tribes like our neighbours," explained our guide, "and we have been united as one country for longer than any other nation on earth."

In the days of the Grand Tour, European travellers would take weeks to sail in dahabiyas along the Nile from Cairo to Aswan. Nowadays, trips are only available from Luxor (to which we flew) and most people spend three to seven days afloat, sharing one of 400 cruise boats, some huge, ugly and battered, others small, attractive and well-kept but not small enough for a single group as on a charter yacht or a Turkish gulet.

Until now. The luck, not the curse, of the pharaohs was with the Duncans in Egypt. Luxor and the Nile, like the pyramids, were as quiet and unhurried as they must have been in the 19th century. So quiet, in fact, that we found ourselves transferred from the cruise boat we had booked to something new to the Nile, and wonderful; and we had it to ourselves.

It was a modern-era dahabiya. These gaff-rigged craft, larger versions of the traditional felucca, had all but disappeared but have been reintroduced in the past four years to suit private groups of family or friends. Altering the face of Nile cruising, they are able to tie up in shallow places where conventional boats can't.

Thus we wandered around the fascinating dock and quarry where the sandstone was mined for the temples and an island, grazed by water buffalo, filled with groves of mango, lemon and banana, lost in time, where we barbecued by candlelight on the beach and the boys swam in the river.

Our dahabiya, the brand-new Zein Nile Chateau, was an airy, glass-encased, creatively decorated delight, with five double bedrooms and the beautiful King Farouk Suite (parquet floor, crystal wall lights and framed old photographs of the deposed Egyptian king and his family). Towed by tugs when not under sail, it had no noisy engine, but instead floated serenely on the carpet of blue water that bisects the emerald green valley that cuts dramatically through the yellow desert.

The brand-new Zein Nile Chateau

From the tiny, weathered rais (captain), in pale-blue gallibaya and snow-white turban, who could have navigated the quixotic waters of the Nile with his eyes shut, to the comic belly-dancing maître d', there was the gentlest of crew, as well as exceptional food, a hot tub on the spacious roof deck, an elegant sitting room for evening games of cards and backgammon and a shaded terrace beyond.

Best of all, Bahaa, a hugely entertaining Egyptologist, popped up every time there was a pause and another entrancing ancient monument to visit along the way. "I always hated sightseeing," commented one son, "until now." The combination of seamless, private and relaxing transport and some world-class sights was, we all felt, without parallel.

Days were spent drifting on the Nile, pausing to visit temples and do battle with the peddlers for whom "no thank you" is not an answer. But even that tiresome hassle was soon forgotten as we lolled on the rooftop watching the lush banks slip by.

At the principal Luxor sights, including the Valley of the Kings and Queens and the temples of Hatshepsut and Karnak, we were all but alone, coach parks deserted, guards dozing. Only Luxor Temple was packed – with a large, orchestrated group of Malaysians sprinkling water and waving their arms in some strange ritual.

In post-revolution Egypt there is a vast amount to tackle, and doubtless there will be many pitfalls along the way. But tourism is vitally important in Egypt and we certainly felt welcomed and safe; indeed, with new-found freedom of speech on every citizen's lips, Egypt has become more than just a classic sightseeing destination, concentrating on the long-dead past. If you want a flavour of what we experienced, at knock-down prices, you should visit soon.

To book a cruise or guide with driver while in Egypt, contact local operator Marhaba Tours (0020 2 2632 9739; marhabatours.com).

PACKAGES

The simplest way to holiday in Egypt, especially for first-timers, and for extra protection during periods of political uncertainty, is to take a package with a reliable tour operator.

Abercrombie & Kent (0845 618 2143; abercrombiekent.co.uk) has a six-night itinerary (three nights in Cairo, three nights on a Nile cruise) from £1,995 per person based on two sharing, with return flight, b & b in Cairo and full board on the cruise.

A seven-night charter of A & K’s Zein Nile Chateau costs from £17,500, with all meals, guides and excursions. Based on full occupancy (12 people), the cost is £1,460 per person. A seven- night cruise on Sun Boat IV costs from £1,230 per person, with all meals and excursions.

WHEN TO GO

High season is from October to April, when the weather is often perfect: warm, dry and insect free, with sunny days and cool evenings. Check the Foreign Office website (fco.gov.uk) for any travel warnings before departing.

THE INSIDE TRACK

In Cairo, hire a felucca from the Dok Dok landing stage across from the Four Seasons hotel. Agree the cost first (about £3 per hour), take a picnic and sail into the sunset.

Deal with accosting trinket-selling peddlers by staying silent or, if you do wish to buy, when asked where you are from, say Moldova or similar, not the UK. The price will halve.

Shopkeepers accept almost any currency, certainly sterling and dollars, but it’s best to keep a stash of £1 and £5 Egyptian notes for small purchases and tips, which are relied on and expected everywhere.

Aim to visit the star sites first or last thing, when visitors are fewest.

WHAT TO BRING HOME

It’s tempting to keep your purse or wallet firmly shut in tat-choked, hustle-heavy Cairo, but at Nagada (13 Refa’a Street, Doqqi; nagada.net) you’ll find lovely handwoven silks, cottons and linens in a grand villa, and in Al-Khatoun (3 Mohammed Abdu Street), stylish Egyptian lighting, handicrafts and shawls in an old Ottoman House in the Islamic quarter. The Mounaya Gallery (14 Montazah Street, Zamalek; mounaya.com) has a fine selection of accessories and housewares.

RELIABLE GUIDES

The best guides to the sights are university-educated Egyptologists, who tend to be extremely knowledgeable and good communicators. Their fees vary, but they are not expensive, and they can arrange transport as well.

Two highly recommended guides are Bilal Sedky (for Cairo; 0020 2 2507 3334) and Bahaa Gaber (for Luxor and the Nile; 1 0652 5860). Expect to pay around £125 per day for guide, driver and car.

THE BEST HOTELS, CAIRO

Semiramis InterContinental £

If you are prepared to forgo a Nile view and make do with a city panorama instead, then a top Cairo hotel becomes yours for an affordable price, and a hotel that offers a long list of amenities into the bargain (0020 2 2795 7171; ichotelgroup.com; doubles from £122).

Mena House Oberoi ££

The Mena House in Oberoi

The historic “Palace” portion of this hotel is currently closed for refurbishment but you can stay in airy rooms in Mena House Garden, swim in the superb pool and eat in the new restaurant, which offers six different cuisines and Pyramid views (3377 3222; oberoimenahouse.com; doubles from £160).

Four Seasons at the First Residence £££

Hear the lions roar and spot the hippos in the zoo from your spacious room on one side, or look over the Nile on the other. Excellent restaurants, including Thai; also has outdoor pool and exclusive mall (3567 1600; fourseasons.com; doubles from £210).

THE BEST RESTAURANTS, CAIRO

El Fishawi £

Found at the heart of the Islamic quarter of Cairo and open 24 hours a day, the city’s oldest coffee house, founded in 1773, makes a wonderfully atmospheric place for tea and sheesha (al-Hussein Square).

Abu El Sid ££

Smoke sheesha and drink beer while enjoying Egyptian dishes such as stuffed pigeon, all in gorgeous Arabian surroundings (26th July Street; 2735 9460).

Moghul Room £££

Cross continents and opt for some superb traditional Indian cooking from a renowned and long-established chef (Mena House Oberoi; 3377 3222).

DID YOU KNOW?

Nile may come from the Greek neilos, or valley. Egyptians called it Ar (black), after its sediment.

WHAT TO AVOID

Cairo traffic. It’s simply appalling.

Camel touts at the Pyramids: it’s been known to cost £1 to be hoisted up, and once aloft, £10 to be retrieved.

The awful sound and light shows at the Pyramids of Giza and major temples.