I don't understand this at all. The emitter is supposed to go on top of the projector and point towards the screen. PJ is 17' away so the cord wouldn't be long enough anyways even if this was a solution.

Paradigm, did you get your 3D system to work right. If something is not working right a solution may not be the normal way and that is why I was offering something different. I would sure think there is a longer cord made by an after market company, extension cord per-say. As noted by another member they where guessing you had 33FT of IR travel.......that is a long way for IR to travel as they noted. I would wonder if an IR extender like this below could help in an extreme case when a client has a "different" situation as you are having. Of course I guess the question would start rolling in on what all the little pyramid things are all over the room are. However in an extreme case it's a cheap, quick solution ( possibly ).........

I dont fully understand it either and I dont mean to imply that I do. Maybe the streaking is harming actual content more than I think, who knows. From the discussion last year though, this was shown to be a type of lens issue. Be happy you have one that does not show it or your zoom, throw and setup dont reveal it for whatever reason. What is your zoom/mounting situation like again?

Sorry if I sounded disrespectful, that was not my intention. I certainly respect your thoughts and opinion as you are much more knowledgeable than me about projectors in general. I enjoy reading your posts.

You didn't sound disrespectful at all, actually I am the one that comes off too brash in the forums sometimes. I don't mean to.

Other stuff
I have been in a few different zoom positions, right now I am nearer at a closest throw, but I am in a temporary room. Once I move it back, I will be more halfway between mid-zoom and farthest throw. With 2 projectors and 2 HTPC's, and all my other equipment, I have a cooling problem in my HT room, I had to move the JVC temporarily, I was worried about the heat in the room. I am still enjoying the JVC very much in my non-bat cave living room (still well light controlled though). I also use my Viewsonic DLP quite often though as well.

I watched Kung Fu Panda 2, a little on the DLP, a lot on the JVC:

My thoughts:

1) The DLP did POP a little more in some bright scenes, but not much more, and of course the DLP is less forgiving overall because when you hit a darker scene it takes you out of the film a little. I would have to split-screen and A/B it to really have a better feel for it though.

2) The JVC looked fabulous overall and the dark-scene contrast in this animated film was truly mesmorizing at times. I love owning both projectors and going back and forth.

I am working on a review, a DLP vs. LCOS thing, but it is slow coming, I have to spend a lot of time with both.

So after 2 full weeks of having the RS45 sitting in my theater room and driving myself insane, I decided to keep the JVC for 2D only and return the 3D stuff. Initial impressions are very positive and it reminds me a lot between the Sony HW30 and the JVC HD250. Black levels are outstanding and really made me smile on certain scenes in Transformers 3. I will admit I was expecting the unit to be a tad sharper after all the hype I was hearing, but I think it has to do with the fact I just packed up the BenQ W7000 tonight and the two are pretty close in this category. If DLP has anything going for it, it is definitely how sharp the image can get.

My unit does not have any of the streaking issues that have been popping up as of late. I tested the AVS patterns along with the built-in ones and nothing has any streaks, not even a hint of them. Mine was one of the ones where the image was projecting onto the ceiling when I got it if that helps or makes sense. I did notice that the bulb said it had 1 hour already clocked on it fresh out of the box, is this normal?

I can't wait to get this calibrated but I think I will wait until I have at least 10 hours on the bulb before messing with it. What settings are you guys using for regular tv viewing vs. movies? Cinema definitely looks the best for bluray but I find natural or stage the best for DirecTV. I definitely noticed a difference in quality when watching certain DirecTV content vs. bluray and it mainly looks like more noise is introduced into the image.

Overall for the pre-order price @ AVS I think I made a good decision keeping this for 2D.

DLP's have a more visible pixel fill, so if you take an LCOS and DLP that are equal in sharpness, the DLP will look a tad bit sharper even when they are equal (not that these 2 are equal, just saying).

The w7000 (if going by the w6000) is going to likely be one of the sharpest under $5000 projectors out there (some Runcos, older Sharps, Planars can probably compete), so then you take a tiny bit of added sharpness and a more defined pixel grid and you get a sharpening like effect to the image. For some stuff this may add a bit of punch, but it can also detract from the image at times slightly. For a sharper looking image on the JVC, you can turn the sharpness and detail enhancements up, and then try to compensate with the NOISE reduction filter. The sharpness control actually works with few side effects for animated films and CG since there is really no noise to exaggerate (because more solid and less random colors).

The JVC RS-45 is pretty dang sharp, but every unit has variances so we cannot say exactly how sharps yours is compared to others. It does take a bit of time to adjust from a DLP to an LCOS. I am going back and forth like twice a day, and it is kind of weird at times.

Just trying to put some perspective on it. All 3 units I have seen had this streaking....it is far from unusual. I would agree that an extreme case like the picture shown recently in this thread is cause for concern.

Either way, you need to chill

I did more testing of mine over the last few hours and my findings are as follows:

I am at a TR of about 1.4, ie min throw for the image I am projecting. However I have the lens aperture clamped down at -13 for now. So take that as you guys please regarding brightness effect on the streaking.

It is clearly visible on my unit from more than just 2-3 feet away (very similar to the pics previously posted) BUT ONLY on text (as far as I can tell).

Lens shift did not have an effect on the streaks as at least one other reported. I should have tested different zoom levels but did not think of that, I simply tested a min throw ratio.

If I try, I can make out the streaks from about 9 feet away, where I am sitting temporarily until my screen is finished. It is not just white on black background, I even saw it on yellow text on blue background.

I will say that the bigger the font/text size, the more easily viewable the streaks are, that much I did notice. It also affected just straight lines, but only at the tips of the lines, not along the length of it, ie it did not really cause bluriness or anything like that.

I have a feeling once I move to final seating position (~13 feet), it will be even less visible, if visible at all. It doesnt really distort/ruin actual moving images as far as I can tell. Actual movies look damn sharp, life-like and depth is unreal (and I need to do some work on on the color settings and then get going on gamma). I will do a bit more testing over the next week once I get the PJ in its final mounted position, but for now will hold onto this unit because from even 5 feet back, the image is crisp, sharp, and any mis-convergence is a non-issue.

That said, if I used this for any type of text-based work or worked with hard angles/shapes or for whatever reasons enjoyed watching scrolling white credits on black backgrounds (I dont ), I would probably send this one back. But for now I am more than willing to take the convergence and focus pluses vs this streaky negative.

If I find any nagging issues once it is permanently mounted and seats are at 10+ feet away, however, I can assure you I will be calling JVC on this, even if it has 50 hours on the lamp at that point because to me it would be a defect that should be covered under warranty even if the lamp was 1000 hours old (as long as I was in a 2 year time period, particularly since this doesnt appear to be a lamp issue but a lens or light engine issue). I don't expect to have to do that because I have a feeling at final seating position, this will be a non-issue; it really is practically a non-issue even at 8-9 feet unless you look hard for it or stare at very large fonts, or unless you think "hey I paid $x,xxx and I want perfection" .

EDIT: I didn't take any pics because my point and shoot would probably be worthless and I have no clue how to photograph properly in the dark to capture this stuff.

So after 2 full weeks of having the RS45 sitting in my theater room and driving myself insane, I decided to keep the JVC for 2D only and return the 3D stuff. Initial impressions are very positive and it reminds me a lot between the Sony HW30 and the JVC HD250. Black levels are outstanding and really made me smile on certain scenes in Transformers 3. I will admit I was expecting the unit to be a tad sharper after all the hype I was hearing, but I think it has to do with the fact I just packed up the BenQ W7000 tonight and the two are pretty close in this category. If DLP has anything going for it, it is definitely how sharp the image can get.

My unit does not have any of the streaking issues that have been popping up as of late. I tested the AVS patterns along with the built-in ones and nothing has any streaks, not even a hint of them. Mine was one of the ones where the image was projecting onto the ceiling when I got it if that helps or makes sense. I did notice that the bulb said it had 1 hour already clocked on it fresh out of the box, is this normal?

I can't wait to get this calibrated but I think I will wait until I have at least 10 hours on the bulb before messing with it. What settings are you guys using for regular tv viewing vs. movies? Cinema definitely looks the best for bluray but I find natural or stage the best for DirecTV. I definitely noticed a difference in quality when watching certain DirecTV content vs. bluray and it mainly looks like more noise is introduced into the image.

Overall for the pre-order price @ AVS I think I made a good decision keeping this for 2D.

I think you made a good decision. I got the 45 for 2d. I love the black levels.
My unit also had the picture on the ceiling out of the box and 1 hour on the bulb. If I see a great deal on a cheap DLP I might get it for 3D only. Most of my viewing will be in 2D and so far I am very happy with it. I have no streaking and very good convergence.

So I am sure this is going to start a religious war, but does anyone have any actual reasons why I would buy am Eye One vs. a Spyder to do my calibration for my RS-45? I am planning, for now at least, to use HCFR if that makes any difference.

Down the road I plan to, most likely, buy a Lumagen. At that time I will probably get one of the better calibration packages, like CHromaPure, but for now I think HCFR is free and will let me learn a little about calibrating before I drop more cash into it.

Though more money, there are some promos going on now that you might be interested in. They end on the 31st though.

I know there is a seperate calibration thread but I haven't seen many user settings over there. Anyone have a good starting point for a 1.2 gain screen? I know it is best to calibrate based on one's own room environment and screen, but I have family in town for the new year and won't have time until after to really mess with it.

several members have asked me to repost this. It's a cable I made that splits the 3 Pin connection that allows us to run both the JVC IR Emitter and the Monster Vision 3D emitter at the same time. I've had up to 8 pairs of glasses (4 MVD 3D and 4 Xpand 103) running without a problem.

unfortunately, no one makes a pre-made splitter, but it's easy to make. There is nothing special about the connections, it's simply splicing the connection together.

You can get the cables from here (3 are required to make the splitter):

Oh, you mean the Onkyo pr-sc5508 won't accept IR from his remote controller when the X30 is on 3D?! This may be an annoying issue for me too I have RS45 and Onkyo 5509 still in the original boxes.

Needs to look at this piece. Our gear runs thru 2 floors, countless walls, and about 200FT of space. So I would guess it can help with your issues. Under $75 too ! >>>> Next Generation Remote Control Extender >>> Click Here Buy from Amazon, if it does not help, easy return.

Quick question: is there any way to know how many times a lamp reset has been performed on a JVC unit? Is there a counter in a service menu or something?

I have an RS45 on order, my first ever JVC PJ, which will get calibrated by the dealer once it arrives. However I've been informed that it won't arrive until the second or third week of january, end of January if I'm unlucky. Paranoid as I am, I'm worried my dealer will actually receive it sooner and use it as a demo in the meantime. Since it looks easy enough to reset the lamp without leaving traces from what I've seen in the manual, added to the fact that he is allowed to open the box for calibration purposes, I don't know how I would be able to verify this... :S

Quick question: is there any way to know how many times a lamp reset has been performed on a JVC unit? Is there a counter in a service menu or something?

I have an RS45 on order, my first ever JVC PJ, which will get calibrated by the dealer once it arrives. However I've been informed that it won't arrive until the second or third week of january, end of January if I'm unlucky. Paranoid as I am, I'm worried my dealer will actually receive it sooner and use it as a demo in the meantime. Since it looks easy enough to reset the lamp without leaving traces from what I've seen in the manual, added to the fact that he is allowed to open the box for calibration purposes, I don't know how I would be able to verify this... :S

Perhaps you should be looking for a new dealer if you have these fears or maybe have it calibrated in your own theater once it has a few hours. I would think the calibration would be better and probably not that much more in cost.

I actually already have this. My equipment is in the basement and I have HDMI running to an upstairs bedroom set. The remote receiver is in the room with the projector. Usually if I use the remote with the extender battery in the same room it is sluggish because it is getting 2 sets of IR commands at the same time. I was wondering if changing the remote codes on the Onkyo would work. I will also post in the Onkyo 5508 forum.

I have a uh-380 on a manual sled in front of mine. Did you have some specific question or concern?

FYI - I use a lumagen for scaling so I have not tried the jvc anamorphic modes.

No, no specific concerns...just trying to gather information as I design my theater! Thanks for the response! A dealer whom I have been in discussions with gave me a quote for an "anamorphic lens" at $3000 but didn't specify a brand name (bells went off in my head), so I am curious as to what brands are out there for anamorphic lenses besides Panamorph and Primasonic.

Has anyone besides me had an issue with the emitter putting out so much IR, control of other components (ie Onkyo 5508) is almost disabled? If so, how did you combat it?

Yep it is flooding my equipment too. I noticed it on both my Oppo and Anthem. I think it is because I have my Xantech IR sensor on my screen wall. The 3D emitter is on top the projector pointed at the screen. I'm in the process of getting all my equipment controlled by IP/IR (iRule) once that is done I may be able to live without the screen sensor or at least cover it during 3D use.