When Branchline Brewing Co. recently celebrated its first anniversary, it concluded a year that in many ways exemplified what it means to be a startup microbrewery in the era of the craft beer boom.

The company counted on 650 special stemmed glasses being enough to cover everyone who would show up for the event, but barely over halfway through, all the glasses had been sold, plus about 300 regular pint glasses.

Branchline brought out 19 beers for the celebration, ranging from its standard Shady Oak Honey Blonde, Evil Owl Amber and Woodcutter Rye IPA to unusual creations such as a pumpkin hatch rauchbier and “1 Anniversary Ale,” a wheat barleywine aged in white wine barrels. Five years ago, a startup brewery serving such an array of beers would have been uncommon, but the need to stand out in an increasingly crowded craft beer scene has driven the creativity of many breweries.

The enthusiasm that head brewer Les Locke puts into creating unique beers is evident when they're in your glass. The pumpkin hatch rauchbier was quite nice. Smoke and capsaicin can easily be overdone, but in this beer they were in proportion and allowed the beer underneath to be a part of the taste.

The Nightsky Eggnog Stout served from a firkin was smooth and roasty, even without the higher draft-level carbonation (or any actual eggnog).

The anniversary beer was malty like a barleywine should be, though the oak flavor was a bit harsh. I hope they set some aside because I'd love to taste it again in a few months after it's had time to mature.

Branchline also followed the typical new microbrewery experience by immediately needing to grow to meet demand. In the first year, it more than doubled its capacity and is now supplying more than 100 bars and retail stores. The microbrewery has concentrated efforts here at home but does distribute a limited amount of beer at establishments in the Interstate 35 corridor as far north as Austin.

In the coming year, expect more of the same. Locke is a keen teacher for his assistant brewers, so they will increasingly be able to bring their skills to bear as well. Branchline plans to continue its roadmap of making barrel-aged versions of its beers or ones served from a cask in the style of the English real ale for its tap room and select locations around the city.

Winter warmers

A quick footnote about Winter Warmer beers is in order. If you time it right to hit one of our occasional cold days, this kind of beer is a treat.

Winter Warmers can vary widely in character, but their common thread is that they are rich and malty with alcohol in the 6-9 percent range. Samuel Smith's Winter Welcome, Harviestoun Old Engine Oil or Harpoon Winter Warmer are good choices to stay toasty on a cold night.

Markus Haas is the beer writer for the Express-News. Follow him on Twitter @saen_beerguy or email mhaas@express-news.net.