A soft, pillowy start with those off-dry savoury notes seen on the nose along with fruit compôte, nut and some gingery spice. Quite chewy mouthfeel with light drying on the sides of the tongue. Diluted shows real generosity, balance and an extra – and surprising – sprig of mint.

Finish

Dusty and nutty.

Conclusion

A beautifully balanced and medium-rich Bunna. Ideal for lovers of the 18.

Well-controlled peatiness and some wine notes, with just a hint of struck match in the background. Though slightly prickly with smoke, heat and cask, this gives a granular element which balances the sultana, raisin and gingery sweetness.

Finish

Soft, then drying. Smoked fruits.

Conclusion

This is Moine settling down and, while it might just need a little more time to fully cohere, I like this mix of sweetness and smoke.

Right place, right time

Just as things slip into sweetness there’s a catch in the throat. It can only be Kathleen MacInnes.

Silky (but raw silk). Crisp and frisky. Sweet too – vanilla syrup – but the alcohol gives a fizzy bite. White chocolate bar when a dash of water is added. The smoke lingers on the tongue with a dusty feel.

Finish

Dry, slightly astringent.

Conclusion

An assertive Caol Ila, the whisky of cold, blustery days. Water is needed to cut the edges. It does not have the versatile charm of the standard version. There is a dose of austerity in this whisky.

Right place, right time

Before heading out on a stormy day, to give you the courage to face the elements.

Martine Nouet

Jura Tastival 2016 Triple Sherry Finish

A slightly edgy and uncertain beginning, before spice and tanned leather come in, backed up by stewed fruits of the forest and darker notes of liquorice. Water brings ripe plum and sun-dried tomato skins, then treacle toffee and light mocha coffee.

Palate

At 51%, the prickle of relatively high strength, bringing in a slightly bitter edge of dark chocolate. Water helps enormously, soothing that bitterness, calming, sweetening and smoothing off the sharper edges. Still quite powerful and persistent. Needs time in the glass.

Kilchoman Fèis Ìle 2016 Release

Warmth from the outset, a richly Sherried character with ripe plum and peppery spices. Then we move into darker, more opulent territory with sultana and date. All the time, brooding, maritime smoke sits behind the fruit like a storm cloud on the horizon that never quite blots out the sun. With water, the skies brighten further – ripe tangerine and citrus lift.

Palate

Obvious iodine from the outset, brine-like, with the rich fruit giving an air of seaweed on warm rocks. Thick, almost treacly in texture, with rich spices and an elusive smoked meat character somewhere in the background. Water gives some added structure and a note of old books and burnished wood – but don’t add much or you lose the power.

Finish

Nicely poised smoke and Sherry.

Conclusion

This is a single Oloroso Sherry cask filled in December 2007 and bottled in May 2016. A grown-up, muscly Kilchoman, and hugely impressive.

Right place, right time

Browsing the tomes of an old library as the scent of seawater and kelp drifts in through an open window.

Richard Woodard

Lagavulin 18 Years Old Fèis Ìle 2016

Fresh and open. Gentle smoke, like the last smoke swirling up from a bonfire after a summer shower. Sea breeze. A distinctive freshly pressed cider note with a hint of apple blossom in the back. Intense but mellow.

Palate

A rich satin-like texture at the start, followed by a crisp, fizzy feel. The smoke is more intense, with a sooty touch. A sweet note of dried figs. With water, a lovely grassy twist. Curry plant (dune plant).

Finish

Long, still fizzy and refreshed by liquorice.

Conclusion

Bourbon maturation talks on the nose and Sherry whispers on the palate. A Lagavulin appeased and self-assured.

Right place, right time

Facing the sea, on a warm summer day, Walt Whitman’s Leaves of Grass by your side.

Martine Nouet

Laphroaig Cairdeas Madeira Cask

Immediate burnt elements which could be both Madeira- and distillery-induced. The finishing cask makes itself known from the start, resulting in the slightly peculiar mix of stewed berries, red liquorice and seaweed. Water makes things drier, with treacle and a smear of Germolene, then a touch of firelighter.

Palate

Quite bold, albeit crisp, with more of a malty element developing. Some blood orange, but there’s also a green, angelica-like note in the background alongside arame seaweed. Then come silky fruits and a burnt butter element, clove and light.

Finish

Smoke, black fruits.

Conclusion

I was unsure of this when I tried it first, but subsequent tastings show there is some good layering. Laphroaig on the sweet side.