There's always summer somewhere. With the May Bank Holidays looming many of us will now be thinking how to make the most of it. Looking outside of the window it's hard not to book a holiday somewhere nice and warm. Grit Spring 17 issue features swimwear by a London based designer duo Neoss. Grit's Contributing Editor Adjoa Gharban found out more about the label and especially about their first swimwear collection. Some of their pieces come with great acid green details making it tempting to wear it for a full moon party at Goa for instance. Packing light has never been so easy.

Neoss bikini top "The Ray Top" with acid green tabs. Image is taken from Grit Spring 17 shoot out next week.

Neoss "Ryder Top" with two snap fastenings

Who is the woman who wears Neoss?

We cater to a lot of people. There are several garments in the autumn winter collection that are unisex but the swimwear collection was designed around our group of friends, our girls. It celebrates friendship and feeling confident; they represent a cross section of women and we feel there is something for everyone in there.
We want people to invest in neoss with the idea that it will take them through the seasons. We build upon our collections, to eliminate the disposable attitude towards buying.

Our consumer is someone that thinks like we do; inquisitive about where their clothes are made and willing to spend a bit more money to ensure quality and sustainability.

Why swimwear?

Swimwear felt like a natural progression from our Autumn Winter collection. We used neoprene which of course has an instant link to swimwear. Natalie studied Fashion Contour at London College of Fashion so it was always something we wanted to explore. We developed some really interesting shapes in our ready to wear collection and wanted to apply those to swim!

Where do you look for inspiration?

There isn't a place we don't look. It's everywhere really; film, dance, people we see, sometimes it's not even a physical thing it could just be explaining how we want to feel in something. And then of course there is the textural side of every project that is the undercurrent driving our ideas. We want to create sensory experiences with our clothes and swimwear.

Detail from Neoss swimwear collection moodboard

So many designers are developing their own swimwear lines. Why do you think everyone is falling in love with it?

Well I guess you have to work hard to create something different, it is quite a saturated industry so that makes it challenging and therefore alluring. Plus you are working with small bits of fabric so it's harder to create something dimensional. All these things encourage you to be more thoughtful towards detail. Swimwear also has strong intangible associations, it transports us to summer, holidays and fun!

The Grit shoot featuring NEOSS is broadening the idea of where and when swimwear can be worn (imagine the late hours of a Goa full moon party). What do you think of broadening the function of swimwear?

We don't put limitations on our pieces. You can wear them wherever and however you want.
We are constantly thinking of innovative ways to style garments to get more from them. If you can wear something in a different way then it’s like a new item of clothing, but better! 2 4 1!

When designing swimwear what are the key elements?

Functionality, fit, comfort and aesthetic, seems like a bit of a standard answer but really it has to be all of those things otherwise you’ll never want to wear it.

Swimsuit or bikini?

NATALIE:
Last year it was bikini for me… ours of course! The 'Racer' gave me the same confidence and security you get when you wear a swimsuit. It really depends on the mood but I have to say ultimately I don’t think you can beat the swimsuit, there is something so undeniably SXC and effortless about them.
GEORGIE:
Teeny weeny bikini for me!

Is it easier to design when there are 2 of you?

Not really but it is more interesting! You have to articulate and draw an idea so well that the other person knows exactly what you are talking about, so you are visualising the same thing. But this makes for really good editing. We go through concepts so thoroughly, colliding ideas, that we end up with designs that we couldn't have done alone. We sketch and reference a lot but that’s probably one of our favourite parts of the process. It also helps that we have been friends for over 14 years so we can be honest with one another.

Q+A by Adjoa Gharban
All the swimwear is available to purchase now at: http://www.neossldn.co.uk

We're closing the office for three weeks and will be back by the end of August. While we're on holiday we'll be blogging holiday images from our friends and contributors, like the above images by Hannah Rose, who's one of the many exciting new talents we've been working with for AW16 projects.

Tuesday August 2nd, Rocks, stones & ice creams

Foreword by Adjoa Gharban

Suit Up, Dive in.

Summer calls for swimwear. Often dreaded and rarely celebrated swimwear is enjoying
somewhat of a renaissance and we thought we’d jump on the bandwagon. Designers have
been experimenting with swimwear’s new couture tendencies and many fashion lovers
can be spotted beachside in a challenging wraparound look or off the shoulder
bikini, so naturally for this month’s shoot we needed to reflect swimwear’s new
stance.

Our watery editorial is made up of dreamy ice-cream shades and emerging Spanish
designers from SS17, contrasted with beautiful vintage pieces. Think transparent
suits from Cristina Torrent and Pau Esteve pieces with dramatic cut-outs -
essentially the perfect looks for hedonistic, European getaways with plenty of chic
thrown in. Escape to your very own dream summer with a stylish one-piece to match.

"Your gaze hits the side of my face" This phrase first appeared in Barbara Kruger's 1981 artwork next to the profile of an anonymous classical bust. To quote Whitney Museum: "Presented on sunglasses, the wearer transforms into both a voyeur and an object; a play on themes of looking, power, and the gaze."

Whitney Museum also sells the above Yves Klein round sunglasses. It is the first time when Yves Klein archives has authorised a brand to use Klein's patented electric blue.

Friday June 30th, Gucci AW16 campaign by Glen Luchford

Friday June 30th,Serpentine Gallery Pavilion

The 2016 Serpentine Gallery Pavilion by Bjarke Ingels Group

Tuesday June 27th, The Floating Piers by Christo & Jeanne-Claude

Project for Lake Iseo, Italy until 3rd July.

Saturday June 25th, Paris Fashion Week SS17 highlights

Louis Vuitton SS17

Balenciaga SS17

Y Project SS17

Dries van Noten SS17

Tuesday June 21st, Pitti Uomini & Milan Fashion Week SS17 highlights

Prada SS17

Salvatore Ferragamo SS17

Gucci SS17

Versace SS17

Raf Simons SS17

Tuesday June 14th, Marc Jacobs AW16 campaign

Marc Jacobs AW16 campaign photographed by David Sims

Sunday June 12th, LC:M highlights

Christopher Shannon SS17

JW Anderson SS17

Wales Bonner SS17

Feng Chen Wang SS17

Tuesday June 6th, Q+A with Hermione Flynn

Hermione Flynn is yet another new label in our Summer 16 issue. Like Fomme, Hermione Flynn is also based in Berlin and a unisex label. Grit wanted to find out more about the concept of the label and also asked about unisex fashion.

1.How would you describe your label with three words?

Conceptual, unisex and unpredictable

2.You define your label as unisex. Why did you decide to start designing unisex collections rather than separate collections for men and women?

I don’t think clothing ever needed to be gender specific in the first place. It becomes much more interesting as a designer when you don’t design for a specific gender but keep the clothing open to each person.

3. What do you think is the best thing about being a man? How about being a woman?

That men don’t have to give birth and that women are able to!

4.There seems to be several unisex labels coming from Germany. Why?

I can only really speak about my experience in Berlin and not the whole of Germany, but I think it is due to Berlin’s history. it is a city that was essentially rebuilt in in the 20th century. In a way, it feels like a very young city, its nature feels very liberal and not tied to tradition, this allows from some really fresh thinking.

5.Gender fluidity is very popular in fashion right now. Moreover, there’s a lot of talk about transgender these days and labels such as Givenchy and &Other Stories have used transgender models for their campaigns. To quote Valentijn, the campaign model for &Other Stories
“The thing that you have to be worried about is that it’s not just a fad. It’s not a fashion trend to have transgender people in a youth campaign, then after two seasons not have them anymore." (REFINERY29.com AUGUST 14.2015) are unisex clothing and the use of transgender models in campaigns just a phase?

No, I don’t think so. With any big social change, especially one that has been discussed so much in the media, there is always a "fad" element. It’s a process … I don’t believe it’s just a fad but initiating a long lasting change and discourse that is having real effect on society.

6.What’s next for Hermione Flynn?

We are about to release a new campaign that is kind-of a response to the (IN)DIFFERENCE collection. If you think the (IN)DIFFERENCE campaign was about a female perspective, then this new collection both conceptually and clothing wise, is from a more male perspective. We are also collaborating with a 3D animation company following up with a new conceptual collection revolving around the lawlessness of technology.

Friday June 3rd, Q+A with Sarah Effenberger

One of the new labels featured in our Summer 16 issue was Fomme by Sarah Effenberger (see below). We caught up with Sarah and talked about unisex fashion and gender fluidity in fashion.

How would you describe your label with three words?

Simple, but loud.

You define your label as unisex. Why did you decide to start designing unisex collections, rather than separate collections for men and women?

Actually, I am not so interested in women clothes and silhouettes. I see myself as a men’s fashion designer, but I observed that I am actually designing for myself as a man. In the end I am a woman more interested in menswear that’s also for myself. Maybe this is what makes it accessible for both genders, because I can’t escape my girlish tendencies in the design process. As a female customer of menswear I always find myself not fitting into the clothes or losing the style men have when they wear the same piece. This obviously has to do with my curvy body, so I was thinking about how it would be to serve women with my clothes, but in the right sizes for them with female pattern cutting. In the end the same collection will be offered in sizes for men, but also in the right sizes for women. I am not interested in doing a classic unisex collection as they always negate the sense of the body for me.

images from Fomme AW16 lookbook

What do you think is the best thing about being a man? How about being a woman?

Best thing about being a man would definitely be the fact that you can date Sarah Effenberger! No, let’s be honest. I was raised very aware of the gender discussion. My parents didn’t think in gender prototypes or roles. I always had a role model of a strong and independent woman in front of me as my mother and grandmother were always the doers in the family and very strong women. The men actually were too. I still see problems out there and there is still a lot to be done in Europe. More rights and equality for women, but I will say men are also struggling in these times as the traditional picture of a man is changing, but a weak man is still not accepted in society. I don’t have a favourite.

There seems to be several unisex labels coming from Germany. Why?

I haven’t thought about this yet and I have to admit I hadn’t observed that yet! Hmmm, it’s a hard question. Maybe because Germans are very good at dressing up, so you don’t see the difference that much on the street yet. Maybe there is a special force out there making us think more about social equality.

Gender fluidity is very popular in fashion right now. Moreover, there’s a lot of talk about transgender these days and labels such as Givenchy and &Other Stories have used transgender models for their campaigns. To quote Valentijn, the campaign model for &Other Stories “The thing that you have to be worried about is that it’s not just a fad. It’s not a fashion trend to have transgender people in a youth campaign, then after two seasons not have them anymore." (REFINERY29.com AUGUST 14.2015) Are unisex clothing and the use of transgender models in campaigns just a phase?

I would say, maybe it is a fad, most likely it is! The fashion industry turns every discussion into a fad eventually. It could be as intellectual but it always ends in a fad doesn’t it? Probably it is just a phase and I have to say it would not surprise me. But I definitely wouldn’t say that this is necessarily a bad thing. We have to see it in a positive way. Fashion always has the power to make things cool, so we should see it as a tool of acceptance in the society. This is what makes it so precious being a fashion designer, you are able to change deadlocked prejudice and point out social and political disorders and turn it slightly into something else, something more positive. I hope this trend helps the people involved to live a free and happy life beyond fashion.

What’s next for Fomme?

Spring/Summer 2017 :)

Edited by Adjoa Gharban

Tuesday May 31st, Louis Vuitton Cruise

Friday May 27th, Araki at Musée Guimet

Araki exhibition at the Musee Guimet until September 5th.

Wednesday May 25th, Balenciaga Pre AW16

Tuesday May 24th, Behind the scenes of one of our Autumn 16 editorial shoots

Monday May 23rd, Gucci Men's Cruise 2017

Tuesday May 17th, Helena Almeida

The Portuguese conceptual artist Helena Almeida (born 1934) started her career as a painter. In her work Almeida uses her own body to question spatial constructs and the relationship between artist and viewer blending photography with her previous media.
Last chance to see Helena Almeida's exhibition at Jeu de Pomme. The exhibition closes on Sunday (May 22nd).

Friday May 13th, How to Wear Scarves with Modernity
foreword: Adjoa Gharban

High fashion is rarely considered practical, however our latest shoot highlights how to wear fashion’s most multi-purpose item – the humble scarf. Why not try traditional African queen-style, complete with batik printed scarf wrapped and and twisted into shape around the hair? Or you could take a notes directly from the shoot. Your summer wardrobe will barely be in use, thanks to the stunning architectural looks that can be created with a scarf – from skin exposing cross-over crop tops, to chic wrap-around skirts, be inspired by summer’s freeness and tie your scarf the Grit way.

The seventies is very much at the forefront of fashion’s mind. There isn’t a designer who shied away from it’s fluid, carefree appeal for spring/summer. From Gucci’s floral print long ruffled dresses to Chloe’s oversized interpretation of double-denim, the seventies mood promises a very dreamy summer indeed. Taking on this theme our latest shoot photographed by Nick Quine and styled by Andrea de Saint Andrieu evokes something of a seventies dream conjured up by Andrea’s own childhood: ‘I was influenced for the bikini, the 70's, by my mom coming from California and the band "groupie" vibe from the fact my dad was a roadie when he was younger.’ Thanks to crocheted pieces from Michela Buerger, vintage shorts and Rolling Stones t-shirts featuring in the shoot, the mood was retro with a fresh and modern point of view.

Some of you remember Franziska Frings from the Grit editorial by Johannes Kuczera earlier this year. You may not know this but Franziska is also a photographer. We caught up with her during Paris Haute Couture shows.

Can you remember the moment you realised you wanted to be a photographer?

Actually I was always painting or sketching, then I spent some time in Buenos Aires where I was surrounded a lot with film and someone gave me a little point and shoot. I loved it so much that decided photography will be my new tool and I will study that!

Part of the beauty of your photographs appears to be the natural state of the subject and the settings. To what extent would you describe your images as planned?

They mostly are the natural state of the subject and setting, but also how I feel with the setting or communicate with the subject. If I shoot a fashion story I have to plan, but I always leave some space to be spontaneous!

What is the concept behind your bathroom series?

There was always a bathroom image from Deborah Turbeville in my head, and through living in model apartments, I had girls and bathrooms. Somehow I discovered there is something nostalgic and at the same time anonymous, and clear and for sure very intimate that fascinated me.

From "Bathroom Stories" series

From "Bathroom Stories" series

Nudity in fashion is popular at the moment. What's your approach as a photographer when taking nude images? How does it differ from being a subject in a nude image?

It's very simple - I want to photograph the person and not fashion in those pictures. If I use clothes it very easily becomes a fashion image or it can distract from the actual intention.

You can "read" a nude picture like a poem; there is so much content, vulnerability, sensitivity and strengths!

Are you able to develop a relationship with the model prior to shooting them?

I love to photograph people I already have some kind of relationship with already, it allows me to capture very personal moments. But even when I shoot someone I don't know, I will find something that connects us, and I try to build on that.

Can you remember what led you to represent strong female characters within your work?

When I started with photography I was living with my best friend Nici, so she naturally became my main subject. Through that experience I discovered that I love to show the strengths and beauty of these girls. But to be honest I never really tried to photograph boys, which may be because I know what girls are like, I know how to direct them and I know how they feel.

Can you pinpoint any personal moments or influences which you can identify as affecting your work?

I could list you many photographers that I love and inspire me.

What has been your favourite series so far and why?

One of my favourite series I’ve shot is still my Dubai series. I had to stay in Dubai for 2 months and I hated that city so much. So I started to look through my camera at that place and I was trying to find something natural, something with content. It was a challenge in a plastic city but it fascinated me at the same time!

Diane Arbus or Cindy Sherman. Why?

That's not fair I can’t decide between those!

Are there any particular reasons you seem to favour film over digital?

Of course! There are many reasons why I shoot film. I always used to paint, to work with my hands, a brush and colours and to shoot with film comes really close to painting. I like taking pictures wisely and not shoot 100 pictures in 60 seconds.

Do you have a particular favourite photo you have taken?

Maybe the one I shot on a pool roof in Dubai and you see a tanned man laying on a chair.

How does your personal experiences as a model relate to your own work?

I think it makes me really sensitive when I shoot someone. I know exactly the feeling of having a camera in your face and I know what I expect from the photographer. Beside this I have all the poses in my head and I can watch the whole process of a shoot so often as a model, that gives me a sense of certainty.

Do you have a personal editing process or do you prefer to leave the images untouched?

Untouched!

Where can you see the future and the natural progression of your photography heading?

I kind of slipped into the fashion photography through modelling. But my other photography means also a lot for me. My dream is to do "art" photography and live with that.

Fashion is not only about the West. Every designer takes global inspirations from around the world. There is no doubt that Africa is influencing SS16. Far from being a flash in the pan “trend” African fashion has been an important part of style since…well forever – whether it’s safari suiting complete with waist cinching belts or the vibrant bright colours of the Masai.

For our approach, we looked to the East side of Africa and gave something traditional a real street edge. From our street cast model to the oversize tunics complete with classic stitching paired with fitted roll necks, we see Africa as bold, fresh and bursting with beauty.

January is not always the best. It is difficult coming back to reality after all the glamour of December and being faced with a whole New Year - that said, you can rely on the transformational quality of clothing to lift your mood. Grit is speaking in volumes this time around thanks to the unexpected ruffles featured in our shoot by Sophia Aerts and Kyanisha Morgan. Banish your January blues completely thanks to the optimistic tone of next season’s modern femininity. We’re dreaming in blush pinks inspired by Ashish and falling in love with the idea of JW Anderson’s polka dot dress complete with tiered ruffles and pastel blue hues. Why not wear that instead of your go to shredded denim? January is the perfect time to try out something new and experiment with style. Don’t be afraid to be different. Make this Spring/Summer a time to expect the unexpected and where better to start than with a ruffled piece of fabric somewhere on your person, be it soft silk or classic cotton.

Brand New
Press reset. Start again. It’s a new year.
In terms of fashion thoughts turn to a brand new season and the optimism Spring/Summer 16 is set to bring. Colour spells out newness in an instant. Grit has been experimenting with flashes of red teamed with faded blue ripped denim and crisp white cotton - effortlessly refreshing our fashion palette. Newness isn’t always about reinvention though, sometimes it’s about revisiting something that has been left behind and suddenly feels relevant once more. Think new retro style Gucci or the most recent skateboard influenced Ashish collection. Exposed shoulders and ruffles evoking that Latin vibe feels especially daring for spring. Even the peasant chic look borrowed from the mid-nineties is making fashion spines tingle – now that is a feeling worthy of the New Year.

Leather. It used to be a fabric for the brave – think bikers, hard edged rockers and such, till about ten years about when fashion turned around its fortune. A black leather legging is a staple in every stylish woman’s wardrobe, whether teamed with an oversize knit in the winter or a crisp white shirt for spring. With leather fast becoming many a millennials replacement for a distressed pair of 501 jeans, it’s almost time to move onto something new and this SS16, it’s colour.

Black leather is classic. It shocks no one and also suffers from appearing hard. By introducing colour into leather’s repertoire it becomes fun, feminine with an edge, the person wearing it turns into into a living editorial. Brightly coloured leather is irresistible this spring and it is an easy way to transform how you wear fashion’s favourite skin. Hang up that Saint Laurent black leather…the future’s bright.

Friday November 13th, A little bit of Paris in London
Grit at Lucien Pages Press Days in London
clockwise from top right corner: top - Sacai, a detail shot of Courrèges vest, sandals - Julien David, jewellery - Charlotte Chesnais
photos by Lia Gebremariam

The stylist Francesca Turner and Photographer Niclas Heikkinen collaborated with the Prop Stylist Miranda Latimer for the Grit Autumn 15 issue. Here's a still life shot from their upcoming editorial.

Tuesday July 28th, Rain or shine

Rain or shine, we'll be shooting. Avery Tharp @Next by Anna Alek and styled by Ron Hartleben for the upcoming Autumn 15 issue.

Friday July 24th, Marni AW15 by Jackie Nickerson

Tuesday July 20th, Q+A with Sophie Willison from Terra Firma Magazine

Congratulations on your second issue of TFM. Our readers might not know but you had a launch party at Claire de Rouen’s a couple of weeks ago. Claire’s bookshop has been one of our all time favourite book stores in London and Claire obviously is a true legend. Could you tell us what impact Claire’s legacy has on you as a young editor-in-chief?

Thank you! Yes it is one of my all time favourite book stores too!
Unfortunately I never had the pleasure of meeting Claire as she passed away before I got into photography, Lucy is doing a great job to preserve Claire's legacy, continuing a commitment to stocking rare, and high quality photography books. It is a real privilege to be stocked in the store!

Let’s discuss more about your magazine Terra Firma. Could you tell us the story behind the name?

When I was younger I always remember my mum being afraid of flying and saying "ah gosh, I can't wait to be back on terra firma". I certainly have a fondness for the word as it is connected with my memories of flying to Australia. Plus it has an exotic feel to it which hopefully makes it stand out a bit. I came up with it quite instinctively without too much thought, which I think is probably the best way otherwise you can really overthink.

If you had to describe the Terra Firma reader with 5 words, what would the words be?

Enthusiastic, kind, curious, social, collaborative.

I’ve been told your favourite colour is red (Terra Firma’s red font, red lipstick). Which other red objects or things do you like?

I have recently just become the delighted owner of a beautiful red COS dress, which is my new favourite item in my wardrobe. I also really love the deep red of Ayres Rock and Australian soil.

What was the first photography/design magazine you ever bought?

It was IMA magazine, I bought it in Paris, Colette 2 years ago. I bought it because it had a story about Alec Soth & Steidl and (what I thought at the time was revolutionary) a mini booklet insert inside! Since then my collection has grown enormously!

There are so many zines these days. Why do you think making a zine is so popular at the moment?

I think because it has become a lot more accessible and it is a way to cheaply express yourself and share you ideas.

Tuesday May 26th, "Mannequin d’artiste, mannequin fétiche"
The brilliant exhibition on mannequin's many lives "Mannequin d’artiste, mannequin fétiche" at Musée Bourdelle was curated by Jane Munro. Ranging from the works of Hans Bellmer to photographs of Oscar Kokoschka’s Alma Mahler doll (the doll resembles his ex wife and the story has it that Kokoschka used to bring the doll to social events etc until one night the doll irritated him so much that he chopped its head off and only few photographs remain) the exhibition run until July 12.

Tuesday May 19th, Gregoire Dyer "It's Almost Impossible..."
The Paris based Film Director Grégoire Dyer together with the stylist Pauline Croce created this amazing film for Grit Spring 15 issue "Sweet Nothings".
Gregoire Dyer directed this film for the Grit Summer 15 issue "Sweet Nothings". Styled by Pauline Croce.

Tuesday May 12th, Frida by Ishiuchi Miyako"
Frida by Ishiuchi Miyako at Michael Hoppen Gallery from 14 May to 12 July

London Fashion Week this season was slicker than ever. The city once renowned for creating catwalk shows on a shoestring had Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell sitting front row at Burberry and the holy trinity of innovative designers in the shape of Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson and Simone Rocha attracting international press and buyers alike. The huge catwalk shows will always be the headline snatchers, but there’s competition on the horizon – the unassuming presentation.
There were more than a few standout presentations this season. Orla Kiely, once a tent regular, scaled back for AW15. Her presentation was in a fantasy library with every model walking between shelves of books. Dressed in classic Kiely geometric prints there were voluminous culottes and 60s shapes aplenty, but the best thing about the collection was the beautiful leather bags that could be seen in all their colourful glory.

Orla Kiely AW15

Rejina Pyo launched her label in 2013, her AW15 presentation staged in an empty library consisted of contemporary suiting in amazing colour and eveningwear that defined modern sexiness. Velvet was intertwined with sheer fabric and moved effortlessly on the models. The detail was something to be relished.

Rejina Pyo AW15

There were some impressive editors rushing to Danielle Romeril’s presentation at the BFC space and it was clear why. The models walked mere centimetres from the audience and every detail of the futuristic-dystopian themed collection was worth watching. Even the earrings, which looked like ribbon belts, added an exciting edge to the already high energy show. The fabrication was opposites attract as lace dresses were trimmed with elaborate quilted material. Everything felt earthy, yet ahead of its time. The dropped hem detailing on some of the skirts will surely be a street style favourite come next season.

Danielle Romeril AW15

The power of the presentation lies in its simplicity. The long queues and waits are over. The scramble to get a good seat, also over, but the best thing about this year’s presentations was the detail that you can see in the looks: accessories, beauty and designs. You don’t miss a thing.