Suneet Varma: I find that when you collaborate you succeed

They say the thirties are the years you really find yourself. Three decades in, veteran designer Suneet Varma discovers a hidden passion.

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Image: Colston Julian

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Image: Colston Julian

It’s hard to trace the trajectory of Indian fashion without talking about Suneet Varma—the two have, after all, grown together. In the last three decades, both the Indian fashion industry and Varma have come a long way. With headline-grabbing collaborations—Swarovski, Judith Leiber and BMW, to name a few—and a client list brimming with leading ladies (Sarah Jessica Parker included), there’s little he hasn’t checked off the sartorial bucket list. On the eve of his label’s 30th anniversary, amidst a celebratory collection of ethereal evening gowns, Varma sits down with Vogue to talk about what continues to drive him.

Take us through the collection. Why did you decide to focus on gowns?
Three years ago I introduced a gown line and it received an overwhelming response. So, for our 30th year I decided to dedicate an entire collection to Western couture. It’s called the Shining Star, as it also happens to be my 15th year working with Swarovski. They have been a massive collaborator and I wanted to credit them for helping me reach where I am today.

If you had to pick one thing that has been a constant source of inspiration, what would it be?
I just love fashion too much. I used to go to shows all over the world and visit flea markets to look at feathers, costumes and old buttons. I still follow every collection, everywhere.

Do you have a favourite runway moment?
My first show in 1991, when I designed the metal breastplate. I was only creating my version of Botticelli’s The Birth Of Venus and suddenly the whole of India got titillated, pun intended! Great runway moments are made when you don’t strive to make a statement.

As a former teacher and one of the country’s most respected designers, what’s the one piece of advice you would give aspiring designers?
There’s no substitute for hard work and discipline. I know it sounds terribly scholarly but it’s something I have come to realise over the years. You can be very lucky but if you don’t work hard it probably won’t work out.

What keeps you happy after all these years?
I think I am happy because I see the good in people. Also, I’ve been blessed with an amazing husband, a mother who I get to take care of and four nieces I can spoil rotten. Of course, like everybody else I have moments when I’ve made the wrong decision but I think the great thing about life is that you just have to get on with it.

What are your plans for the 30th year?
I have a lot coming up but what I really want to focus on is photography. By next year, I want to be photographing for Vogue [laughs]. So, every weekend I go for classes and my photographer friends give me their opinion on my work. And that’s really how I built my career. I find that when you collaborate you succeed.