Friday, April 27, 2012

Villa's Franciacorta Selezione Brut is, as one might guess from the name, a selection made only in the best vintages, to show the finest that the winery has to offer. Production is very low, 2-4000 bottles per year, made from the best bunches grown in the estate's vineyards.

As a rule it's 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, which are barrel fermented using a mix of mostly old and some new barrels; the cuvée is then assembled and the wine spends 5-6 years on the lees. The liqueur is fairly light; residual sugars are about 6%, and the wine is disgorged about a year prior to release. The 95 Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut has been available for 15 years by now, whereas the 2005 has not yet been released.

Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut 1995

This is the last of this wine -- they thought they had more, but they don't. Fairly brilliant yellow gold with brilliant brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights. The bouquet is rich, with caramel and spice mingled with minerality and pleasingly minty balsamic accents, some underlying bitterness, slight honey, and hints of peat smoke of the sort Isla whiskeys exhibit. On the palate it's full and creamy, with rich caramel laced savory notes mingled with some melted butter and pleasant dried apple, while the sparkle is deft and savory, and flows into a long slightly sweet zabaione laced finish. It's very fresh, and if one were asked to guess the vintage one would likely get it wrong. These are wines of the sort one remembers eagerly.
93

Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut 2000

Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and faint hints of green, and also fine perlage. The wine looks a touch younger than the 2004. The bouquet is powerful, with intense gunflint and hints of caramel mingled with dried apples and some pungent bitterness. Graceful and quite elegant. On the palate it's quite mineral, with very clean mineral fruit supported by peppery accents from the sparkle and slight vegetal accents - celery - mingled with sea salt and spice, and it all flows into a fresh mineral laced finish. Tremendously fresh, and given the reputation of the vintage, which saw an extremely hot August, it comes as a bit of a (positive) surprise. It invites large sips.
93-4

Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut 2001

This was disgorged in 2007. Brilliant brassy gold -- it's more charged and more yellow than the other wines served to before it -- and fine steady perlage. The bouquet is intense, and ripe, with caramelized notes and savory notes mingled with spice and slight bitter accents. On the palate it's fresher than the nose, with considerable minerality supported by savory notes and sea salt with hints of bitterness, but only hints, supported by creamy sparkle and by deft minerality with hints of green apple crispness and slight butterscotch laced honey as well. Great depth and extremely elegant, and a wine that is very pleasant to drink. The palate is a little richer and more interesting than the nose.
91-2

Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut 2004

Brilliant brassy yellow with slight greenish highlights and fine steady perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with gunflint laced with honey and spice mingled with some hardwood ash and pleasing spice. On the palate it's crisp, with bright mineral laced dried apple fruit mingled with savory unripe peach, supported by a sparkle that starts our creamy and then gives way to peppery notes, and flows into a fairly long honey laced finish with pleasant mineral accents and slight spice. Nice length, especially of the savory notes in the finish. It's more savory than the 2005, and brighter, and while this is in part youth, it's also attributable to the vintage.
90

Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut 2005

Prerelease sample, unlabeled as of yet. Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections and moderately intense fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory lemony fruit supported by gunflint and some spice, and by some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by peppery sparkle that isn't quite integrated yet, but rather stands out and flows into a fairly long peppery finish with a savory citric underpinning. It is still recovering from having been disgorged, and is in an angry phase; but promises well for the future. It needs another year at least to come together.

After the vertical I stopped at Villa's stand, which was, as usual, mobbed.

I began with the still wines and then progressed to the Franciacorta:

Villa Campèi Sebino Chardonnay IGT 2010

Lot 04.11
Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet s fairly intense and rather ripe, with tropical fruit, in particular slight banana supported by greenish vegetal accents and pleasant underlying savory notes, followed by some gunflint as it opens, while tart wild strawberry also emerges. On the palate it's ample and full, with fairly rich savory gunflint laced wild strawberry supported by warm peppery spice and moderate minerality that flow into a fairly mineral finish with underlying wild strawberry fruit. It's fairly direct, a wine that one could set out with vegetable or fish based dishes, and be fairly certain of soon needing another.
2 stars

Villa Pian della Villa Curtefranca Bianco DOC 2008

Lot L08.09
Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with pleasant minerality laced with loquat and some dusky shadowy accents with some greenish savory overtones. Nice balance. On the palate it's fairly full and quite mineral, with gunflint laced struck granite more than fruit supported by fairly bright minerality and slight citric accents that flow into a fairly long bitter mineral finish. Pleasant in a fairly rich though not opulent key, and will drink nicely with lake fish or white meats, and also with roasted sea fish. Quite a bit of power, well balanced by minerality more than acidity that provides guidance.
2 stars

Villa Gradoni Curtefranca Bianco DOC Rosso 2007

Lot 07.009
Deep black almandine black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is heady, with ripe cherry and berry fruit supported by greenish slightly balsamic accents and acidity, cedar, hardwood ash, and by quite a bit of peppery spice with underlying alcohol. Quite charged, and very intense. On the palate it's bright, with lively graphite laced forest berry fruit supported by considerable minerality and tannins that have a graphite laced peppery burr and flow into a long worm mineral berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a powerful and rather brooding key, and will drink well with roasts or stews; the tannins have a pleasingly smooth feel to the, while the fruit is ripe but not into opulence. Quite substantial.
2 stars

Villa Bianchi Roncalli Barbera Sebino IGT Barbera 2007

Lot 0009
Alessandro Bianchi made this to demonstrate the potential of the estate's terrains, and it's a one time thing, a Barbera from the Gradoni vineyard that is going to be released only in Magnum-format bottles. It's aged in oak, and then in bottle. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to brownish white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced red berry fruit supported by greenish notes, spice and some alcohol, and by considerable warmth as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright peppery spice and by tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a fairly long hot peppery finish with powerful greenish alcohol and some underlying sour berry fruit. It's a classic well oaked Barbera, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably. If you are more of an unoaked Barbera fin it won't work for you. A wine that takes no quarter, but is what it is. This in a tasting situation; if you serve it with a steak or grilled lamb chops your guests, unless they are hopeless wine geeks, will be very happy regardless of their feelings about oaked wines.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Satèn 2008

30 months on the lees, Lot 12.11
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and greenish highlights, and fine steady perlage. The bouquet is elegant, and rather luscious, with honeydew melon and minerality mingled with some citric accents and some greenish notes. Welcoming and rather seductive. On the palate it's fairly full, with pleasant loquat fruit supported by deft mineral loquat acidity and by the sparkle, which contributes creamy peppery accents, and flows into a clean fresh seductively soft finish in which citric accents emerge. Quite pleasant in an easily approachable key, and a wine that those who like sparkle but are not fans of the bone dry end of the spectrum will enjoy very much. It is also a good wine for a romantic occasion.
88-90

Villa Emozione Brut Franciacorta 2008

Lot 10.11
85% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Bianco, 10% Pinot Noir. This is the 30th vintage this wine, and to celebrate the occurrence they changed the packaging, devising a new label and giving it a new name, Emozione, which sums up what they feel about it. Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and brassy reflections, and wine steady perlage. The bouquet is deft, with savory minerality mingled with gunflint and some heather, and also some brambly accents with some greenish overtones. Quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's mineral, with moderately intense citric acidity supporting minerality and the sparkle, which fades gradually through pepperiness into clean minerality with a moderate citric mineral underpinning and moderate sweetness that continues at length. It's quite elegant, with quite a bit to say in a fairly seductive key.
92

Villa Cuvette Franciacorta DOCG 2006

Lot 2 10-11, 42 months on the lees
85 % Chardonnay, 15 Pinot Noir; some of the wine spends time on oak. Pale brassy gold with greenish highlights and brilliant brassy reflections, while the perlage is fine and continuous. The bouquet is intense, with minerality and some gunflint laced with ripe white fruit, some honey laced greenish accents, and slight butterscotch as well. On the palate it's bright, with considerable minerality supported by some dusky graphite shaving bitterness and conisderable salinity, and it flows into a clean slightly savory decidedly mineral finish with peppery sparkle that gradually fades into savory citric notes. Quite pleasant, and is a wine that has a lot to say. One could simply open it with friends, but it also has what is necessary for it to work well with foods.
92-3

Villa Extra Blu Franciacorta Extra Brut 2007

Lot 03 12
This is 90% Chardonnay, 10 Pinot Noir, and 30% goes into wood briefly prior to bottling; it then spends at least 42 months on the lees. Pale brassy green with brilliant brassy reflections, greenish highlights, and fine continuous perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with caramel supported by slight greenish vegetal accents and some gunflint, and by pleasantly tart mineral spice. On the palate it's dry, with considerable crisp minerality supported by peppery sparkle and pungent vegetal acidity that flows into a fairly long very mineral finish. Very pleasant minerality, and it will be a very fine aperitif, or a wine to drink with fish or white meats. The first sip seems fairly direct, but there's a lot going on and it is quite refreshing. I hated to pour it out.
90-93

Villa Diamant Pas dose Franciacorta 2005

Lot 202 - 11
85% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, 48 months on the lees. Pale brassy greenish yellow with brassy reflections and greenish highlights, and fine steady perlage. The bouquet is intense, with gunflint and struck granite mingled with spice and greenish vegetal accents, and pleasant underlying minerality. On the palate it's quite dry, with lemony minerality supported by mineral acidity and slight pungent accents that flow into a long savory decidedly mineral finish. Quite nice, with very pleasant savory accents that flow into a clean decidedly savory finish. Quite pleasant, and a wine that one could drink with foods, especially antipasti, but that would also be nice far from the table. Much to think about.
92-4

Villa Selezione 2004 Franciacorta Brut

Lot 04-10
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and greenish highlights, and fine steady perlage. The bouquet is intense, with deft greenish accents mingled with butterscotch and minerality, and by greenish accents and peppery spice, with some underlying gunflint. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with bright minerality and some dried apple fruit supported by clean peppery notes and hints of caramel that flow into a fairly long decidedly mineral finish. Very pleasant, and will drink quite well as an aperitif or with friends far from the table.
90-91

For more about Villa, which is also a beautiful place to visit, with a fine agriturismo and a nice restaurant, check their site.

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Fortunately, despite years spent seeking out restaurants that enrich my gastronomic knowledge and feed my emotions, I can still be surprised, all the more if the restaurant that stimulates my enthusiasm is located in my region, and in a town not usually mentioned in the more influential Italian restaurant guides: Cisterna di latina, home of the Butteri, the cowboys of central Italy. Yes, because butteri are not just to be found in the Maremma, but also in the Roman countryside,a nd more particularly in the Agro Pontino.

I just discovered RistorArte a few days ago, during the lunch break of Wine Expo, an event that took place in the chloisters of Palazzo Caetani. At 1:30 hunger pangs forced me, my wife Laura, Maria Luisa (yes, the one who is Queen of La Rocca del Gusto, another gastronomic jewel at Monterodondo), and Alessandro to seek out a place to eat. One of the participants at Wine Expo, who wasn't from the area, suggested RistorArte: "Don't be fooled by the entrance, which isn't particularly inviting -- once you're in, and more importantly, seated, you'll be quite happy. I've gone two nights running."

We left Palazzo Caetani, and following his frighteningly precise directions (200 meters up this road, 50 meters after the light....) turned left onto Corso della Repubblica, right onto Via Quattro Goirnate di napoli, and found the place at # 35.
Upon entering we were welcomed by Andrea Iacoangeli, who seated us in a simple, nicely laid out room. He then told me how the idea for RistorArte developed:

"We're four almost thirty-somethings who have been in the restaurant trade fro a while, involved in all sorts of things, from small agriturismi to luxury hotels, to clubs to banquet services for top-tier events. And it all began with banqueting; in 2008 we founded E-Mangio Catering & Banqueting (E-Mangio is an acronym cobbled from Emiliano, Andrea, and Giorgio -- Gerry, who developed the graphics of the logo, is missing).

It was a quick step from banquets in private houses to larger events in prestigious locales, and what began as a passion became jobs before they even realized it. The dream of having their own restaurant developed day by day; it took time but finally came true on March 3 2011, and the adventure began!

The goal of RostorArte was to bring together the conjunction between "Art" and "Table," bringing the table into art, with a small gallery whose artworks change periodically. The menu, in addition to listing the dishes, provides information on the artists exhibiting to make the sensory experience complete.

An experience patrons can enjoy as they please; early in the morning with a muffin and a drink... during the day, with a drink and some finger food... at lunch, with a quick, quality meal... at dinnertime, with an antipasto (e.g. "The Land Hugs the Sea"), with a first course featuring home-made pasta... or late, with cheesecake served with wild berry fruit sauce and a Visciola cherry liqueur, or a cheese plate and one of the more than 80 wines they have in their cellars...

The four of them run the hall of RistorArte, taking turns depending upon their catering jobs, while the kitchen is in the hands of the young chef Marco Berrettoni, with the assistance of the equally young Patrizia Bellisari. The menu is evenly divided between fish and meat, with a not do locally produced ingredients. They make their own desserts and most of their pasta (gnocchi, fettuccine, tagliolini). The goal is a creative cuisine firmly rooted in tradition, using quality ingredients and pricing to be accessible to all.

As is our habit, Laura and I ordered different dishes to double our experience, and the four of us ordered: A Sformatino of Baccalà alla Siciliana, Eggplant Parmesan, Eggplant with Tonnarelli alla Norma dusted with salted ricotta, Gnocchetti with squash, porcini mushrooms and rosemary, Raviolacci stuffed with sea bass and orange aromas, Mackerel Millefoglie with citrus and Carasau bread, and Pork fillet in a mustard and herb sauce.

I may have left something out; since we were all stuffed for dessert we divvied up a single portion of an excellent chocolate tart. All the dishes nicely presented, balanced, and much better than one often finds. 5 coffees (someone had two), two bottles of water and one of wine, Cà Dei Frati's Lugana Brolettino (2010), which never fails to please. The cost? 95 Euros, 18 of which for the wine, which means that the food cost 77 Euros, or less than 20 per person. What more could one want?

I forgot -- the restaurant isn't just open for lunch and dinner: There's a nightly Apricena (Predinner) at a "antidepression price" of 12 euros that includes a drink, a substantial antipasto, and a half-portion of pasta.

Beginning May 2 there will be live acoustic music Wednesday nights, beginning at 9:30. And Sundays starting at 6:30 there's a Happy Hour, with a great selection of cocktails and a rich buffet for 5 Euros, with lounge music in the background.

Saturday, April 21, 2012

You may or may not have heard about the earthquakes that shook the Pianura Padana this winter, but I was in Tedeschi's offices talking with Sabrina when the floor began to ripple, and we sat quietly watching the floor lamps sway for a few seconds. It's not something I'm used to. Fortunately that was it, and when we finished talking I headed into Verona for the Amarone Anteprima.They, like the others in the Famiglie dell'Amarone, chose not to participate, also because their wines were not yet in bottle, and I therefore was quite happy to stop at their stand at Vinitaly and taste everything.

Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave Classico 2011

Lot L2Brassy greenish gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights, paling to white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with a great deal of gunflint supported by minerality and spice, and by clean greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and quite mineral, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by gunflint and a certain stoniness that brings struck granite to mind, and flow s into a fairly long slightly bitter gunflint laced finish with underlying lemony grapefruit acidity. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with foods.1 star

Tedeschi Valpolicella Classico 2011

Lot 162Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with deft slightly greenish berry fruit -- cherry mostly, though there is also some raspberry, and supported by bright greenish vegetal acidity that has that classic Valpolicella tang to it, and pleasing fresh floral accents as well. Extremely inviting. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by tannins that have a slight dusky greenish burr, and flow into a long greenish sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and will go very fast with foods, ranging from fried meats and vegetables through quickly grilled meats. A perfect cookout wine too, one that one could drink by the bucket.2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore 2010

Lot 161The label says, "Appassimento," which means drying -- the grapes are allowed to dry some before pressing. The wine is deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by some sweetish accents and pleasant greenish vegetal notes mingled with wood smoke and peppery accents, and some sea salt and cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate minerality and slight dusky accents more than acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth with some dusky accents that flow into a clean rather dusky savory finish. It's not as bright as it has been in some other vintages, but displays pleasing depth; it's quite approachable and will drink nicely with grilled meats and light stews.2 stars

Tedeschi Corasco Rosso delle Venezie IGT 2009

Lot not apparentThis is a blend of Corvina, Raboso and Refosco (75%, 5% and 20%), traditional varietals of the Veneto, and is deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal laced prune fruit supported by spice and sandalwood with greenish accents as well. Pleasant complexity and very young. On the palate it's rich, with powerful slightly smoky prune fruit supported by deft prune and berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long savory prune finish. It's more direct than the Valpolicella wines, and also eminently approachable, a wine that one can drink without thinking overmuch and will be perfect with roasts or stews. The imprint of the Corvina is quite apparent, and it leads the way, though the other two contribute nicely. The Italian word would be ruffiano, which is ingratiating, and that it is.2 stars

Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2009

Lot 553Deep black cherry almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by sandalwood and pleasant greenish spice with underlying sea salt and hints of nutmeg and brown sugar, it's quite harmonious and very enjoyable to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively prune cherry fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and rather glancing, with licorice root accents, and flow into a clean bright finish with sour prune accents and deft tannic support and warmth that continue at length. Quite pleasant, with considerable complexity and will work very well with grilled meats or roasts, and also with substantial strew, and is also quite young; it will drink nicely now but will reward you if you decide to give it a few years.88-90

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008

Lot 141Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and rather exotic, with sandalwood spice mingled with smoke and slight nose tingling acidity, and with warm sour notes that bring grilled peppers to mind though are not quite that. Harmonious, and quite interesting to sniff. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by bright prune acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, with a slight dusky burr, and flow into a sandalwood laced prune finish that lasts and lasts, gradually revealing peppery accents as the fruit fades. Very pleasant, and is a wine that will drink very well wit roasts or stews; one could press it into service today, but it will reward those who have the patience to give it 3-5 years. It's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.90-91

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Lot 354Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is quite young, with prune fruit supported by sandalwood and sour berry fruit acidity with underlying greenish notes and alcohol, and also a fair amount of licorice root. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr and carry at length into a fairly long bright finish. It is drinkable, but will reward those who are willing to give it time. I would think about opening it in 1018 or so. Expect it to age well for at least 10 years thereafter.88-90

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Prerelease sampleLot 1t2Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with berry fruit supported by licorice root and greenish accents that are supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol. It's woefully young and really didn't deserve to be opened for tasting yet. On the palate it's ample and powerful, with rich savory sour cherry fruit supported by warmth and peppery spice, while the tannins are ample with a bright peppery cast, and the real question that comes to mind is why anyone would want to open this wine in this decade. It's like a toddler, good natured but still a toddler, and it needs at least 5-7 years to get its bearings and begin to be drinkable. One could now if one had no other choice, but it is a pity. Expect it to age well for 15 years at least. The score reflects the present.90

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Prerelease sampleImpenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pigeon blood ruby rim. The bouquet is elegant, with prune fr supported by sandalwood and spice with underlying sweetish accents and warmth, and deft spice and slight acidity. Quite young, but already pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, and moderately sweet, with cherry prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate rather mineral acidity; it's quite harmonious, and though the tannins dry the finish -- an effect of its considerable youth -- is already pleasant enough. It will be much nicer in the future, but if you felt you had to you could drink it now. I wouldn't, and would hold onto it for at least 5 years before I even thought about opening it. Because the potential is there.90-91

Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Recioto Della Valpolicella Classico 2006

Lot L2Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim with some almandine reflections in the nail. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by prune acidity and brown sugar sweetness with some pleasant slightly greenish sandalwood accents. Quite pleasant to sniff in a ripe sweet key, and as it opens some licorice root also emerges. On the palate it's full and sweet, with powerful prune fruit supported by fairly bright prune acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a lasting slightly tannic fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a fairly voluptuous key, and will drink very well with cheeses, especially more piquant cheese and softer well herbed cheeses, or far form the table.88-90

Thursday, April 19, 2012

My in-laws have a summer home at Cinquale, a beach town on the thin strip of flatland between the sea and the Apuans, and if you swim out a ways and look inland, you'll see (on a clear day) a mountain with a spot of blue in it: it's called Monte Forato, The Holed Mountain, and over the years I spent quite a bit of time looking at it.

One day I asked the people at the next umbrella, who live in nearby Montignoso year round, about it. "My father laid out the trail, came the reply. It's an easy hike from Stazzema. Takes about 3 hours."

So I procured a map, got my hiking shoes, and decided to go one morning. A hike is not the sort of thing one can write volumes about, but one can accompany notes with pictures. Briefly:

If you are driving to the area, you will want to take the A 12 (Genova-Collesalvetti) and exit at Versilia. From there, follow the signs for Stazzema, which lead into the mountains, stopping at some point to fill your water bottle and buy lunch (I got a sandwich and 2 peaches).

You can drive all the way up to Stazzema (439 m ASL) and park in the square, and I did, driving past Santa Maria Assunta, a pretty Romanesque church built where the Madonna is said to have appeared, whose foundations date to the IX century, while the façade has a 14th century rosette.

However, parking in Stazzema means you will have to walk through town -- there are some pretty houses, some dating to the 1700s, and there's a bell tower with the Medici coat of arms, dating to 1739 -- because the road narrows considerably, and then up a steep hill, adding about a hundred (or so it seemed) meters to your climb.

So I suggest you bear right at one of the hairpin turns below Stazzema, following a sign for Casa Giorgini, an Agritursmo located in what was once the home of Admiral Giorgini, who wanted a place that offered spectacular views of mountains and sea.

The road leads up past a sawmill, and you should park where it becomes dirt, at the mouth of the number 6 trail (you'll see a red and white CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) maker with a 6 in it). The trail is the old mule track that led up, over the pass, and down to Fornovalasco, a town in Garfagnana, and as such it is paved, with steps in the steeper parts, and though it does climb steadily it is easy going, also because it is almost entirely in shadow in the morning.

Initially you'll be walking though woods, but after about 45 minutes you'll come to Casa Giorgini (735 m ASL), and begin to see the mountains (Pania and Corchia) on the other side of the valley though the trees. A bit a bit after that you'll note that the bedrock has changed from black to white; you are now walking on the calcareous rocks that form the backbone of the Apuane and are responsible for both the marble quarries and - where water infiltrates and dissolves - the region's spectacular caves.

More beautiful views, a spring with bracingly cold water, and you will climb steadily; remain on the number 6 trail until you come to the pass, the Foce di Petrosciana (960 m ASL) and behold all of Garfagnana laid out below you.

By the time you reach the pass you will have walked for about 2 hours, and be 2/3 of the way there. Exactly at the pass you will see, to your left, trail 110, which goes up the naked rock. Scramble up (at least I did), and the first quarter mile or so is steep, with a couple of sections I did on hands and knees, and one section with a rope to hold on to, and then the trail becomes wooded again and easy, though it again climbs steadily. After about 45 minutes you will come around a bend, and see a cliff. Look closer and you'll realize you're looking at the arch, and it is big.

The trail circles around to the back of the arch, where I found a great many people, including a church youth group, relaxing and having lunch.

I climbed up the scree slope to slightly above the arch, found a spot (at about 1200 m ASL) with a beautiful view, ate, and relaxed for about a half hour before starting back down.

(A brief aside: The arch is impressive, at least 50 meters (150 feet) in diameter, and though one could cross it I decided not to. Legend has it that the mountain was pierced in the course of a battle between demons and hermits, or perhaps demons and the Madonna. As you behold the span, the legend doesn't seem so far-fetched.)

The walk down took about the same as the walk up - 3 1/2 hours, and was noticeably warmer, because by then the sun had come around and was shining on the trail.

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

A couple of years ago I visited Raffaella and Giuseppe Trabucchi, who are located in Illasi, on the eastern edge of the Valpolicella Appellation overlooking Soave. A beautiful place, and a most impressive extremely modern winery that is under their home, an elegant country villa. Fine wines too, and I was pleased to have the opportunity to taste the current vintages at Vinitaly.

Trabucchi D'Illasi Valpolicella 1 Anno 2010

Lot L 1212 - 11This was introduced because they had requests for a young quaffing wine It's pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and fairly vegetal, with cherry fruit supported by greenish sandalwood accents and spice. Quite light. On the palate it's light, with bright slightly greenish sour cherry fruit supported by warmth and by tannins that are warm and slightly splintery, and flow into a clean greenish berry fruit finish. A classic, simple, easy to drink Valpolicella of the sort we could use a lot more of.2 stars

Trabucchi D'Illasi San Colombano Valpolicella Superiore 2007

Lot 04 - 12Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents and some sandalwood and licorice root, and also a fair amount of warmth It is pleasant but clearly still developing, and this makes sense given that it was just bottled. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm splintery burr, and by moderately intense fairly bright mentholated acidity that flows into a fairly long warm finish. It's still coming together, but will be quite pleasant in a fairly delicate key when it has its bearings. It needs another year at least.2 stars

Trabucchi D'Illasi Terre del Cereolo Valpolicella Superiore 2005

Lot L05 09This is their answer to Ripasso, which they do not make; they dry the grapes for a month or slightly more and then press them. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim with dusky ruby accents. The bouquet is fairly intense with greenish berry fruit laced with cedar and some licorice root with underlying spice; with respect to the San Colombano the wood stands out more, and this is because here there were barriques. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by tannins that are quite dry, and flow into a dry tannic finish. It's conditioned by the vintage, which was cooler and damper, and the fruit is as a result less intense than it might have been. Because of the dryness of the tannins it will work best with succulent meats that need something to balance them.1 star

Trabucchi D'Illasi Amarone della Valpolicella 2004

Lot 77 08Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and young, with bright greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour prune accents and considerable licorice root with underlying minerality and spice. Pleasant, and harmonious, but a toddler. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright sour cherry prune fruit supported by tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a warm licorice root laced finish with lasting warmth and a slightly peppery tannic underpinning with slight smoky accents. It's very, very young and needs another 3-5 years to come together. It will be worth the wait.2 stars

Trabucchi D'Illasi Amarone della Valpolicella 2006

Lot 07-11This has a new label. The wine is deep black almandine with slim reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and spicy, with powerful greenish accents mingled with balsamic notes and slight savory accents, there's also a slight barnyard tang. Harmonious and holds together quite well, in a youthful key. On the palate it's richer and much more along than the 2004, with bright elegant prune cherry fruit supported by bright prune acidity and by tannins that are smooth and dusky with slight greenish accents, and flow into a clean bright prune laced finish. It's more approachable than the 2004 is at present, and one could drink it with a succulent roast or stew, though it will reward those blessed with patience.90-91

Trabucchi D'Illasi Recioto della Valpolicella 2005

Lot 08 08Impenetrable pyrope ruby with some brick in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with prunes mingled with sweetness and some rather penetrating vegetal notes at the fist swish that rapidly fade, leaving spice to brown sugar and some oatmeal, which nicely balance with the fruit. On the palate it's full and voluptuously sweet, with elegant smooth sweet prune fruit supported by sweet moderately intense brown sugar laced acidity, and by tannins that are fairly dry, and flow into a clean sweet rather dry finish. Very pleasant, especially the sweetness of the fruit, while the tannic underpinning is such that I would be tempted to enjoy it with flavorful creamy cheeses than by itself. If you like sweet wines you will enjoy it.88-90

Trabucchio D'Illasi Recioto di Soave 2006

Lot 03 - 11Pale tawny gold with brilliant old gold reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with sweetness laced with slight botrytis and some honeydew melon with slight passion fruit as well, and a re3freshing coolness too. On the palate it's full and quite sweet, with rich honeydew melon supported by sweetness and moderate acidity that is enough to keep it from being cloying on the outset, and as it fades into honeyed sweetness very fine candied melon rind, which is one of those things that not everyone likes, but if you do it is a very pleasant surprise and lasts and lasts. Very pleasant, and if you like sweet wines you will enjoy it very much because it's not simply sweet, but plays within the sweetness register. I didn't pour it out.90-91

Friday, April 13, 2012

Lorenzo Begali is an old friend of Elisabetta Fagiuoli's, and I was fortunate enough to meet him and his family many years ago when he invited Elisabetta and Sergio to dinner the last night of Vinitaly, and I tagged along. It was a memorable meal, and at the end of it I found myself jotting down recipes, which you will find listed here.

I have since made a point of keeping an eye out for his wines, and am quite glad that I stopped at his stand to taste this year.

Lorenzo Begali Valpolicella Classico 2011

Lot 20 131Deep black almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright berry fruit supported by peppery spice and greenish acidity that mingle with slight animal accents and fairly bright acidity. Zesty. On the palate it's light and deft, with bright light cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents, fairly bright strawberry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a warm slightly greenish strawberry laced finish. A simple lark of a wine that you will need a second bottle of because the first will just go.2 stars

Lorenzo Begali La Cengia Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2010

Lot 20 130Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense,with ith berry fruit supported by sandalwood and some vegetal accents, and by pleasing mentholated spice with hints of licorice root as well; it has a zesty electric feel to it and is very much on its toes. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright slightly greenish cherry acidity and by tannins that are ample and clearly display the substance they drew from the Amarone marks, while the zest notes on the nose is present but not excessive, A finely balanced wine that will go very well with roasts or stews. A second bottle will come in handy.88-90

Lorenzo Begali Tigiolo Rosso Veornese IGT 2008

Lot 10 721This is a blend of Corvina and Cabernet, with considerably lesser amounts of Rondinella and Merlot, set to dry until November and then pressed. It's deep slightly purple ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with some chalk and peppery spice, and moderate mentholated accents. There's less fruit to it, and more minerality, and this is the international half of the blend coming to the fore. On the palate it's brighter, with ripe prune cherry fruit supported by dusky slightly vegetal accents and by tannins that are warm and peppery, and flo9w into a smooth sweet slightly vegetal finish. By comparison with the ripassa there's considerably less acidity, and while it is pleasant I found it less interesting.2 stars

Lorenzo Begali Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2008

Lot 10 721Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is still very young, with prune cherry fruit supported by pleasant greenish vegetal accents and underlying spice. A lot going on, and very young. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich prune cherry fruit supported by deft greenish vegetal accents and some sandalwood, and also slight leaf tobacco, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they still need time to settle and smooth. It's quite pleasant in an unfinished way, and if you happen upon one or more bottles you should exercise patience, because while you could drink and enjoy it now, you will enjoy it considerably more in 5-10 years. In short, a babe that needs to grow.2 stars

Lorenzo Begali Ca Bianca Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

111 28They changed the labels in 2003 because people confused the Cà Bianca with their Amarone base. Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and a head above the base, with sweetish prune fruit laced with sandalwood and licorice root, and with pleasing spice as well; it's very young yet, and though it shows the promise a gifted child might, it's quite obvious that it has a ways to go. On the palate it's full, with rich prune fruit supported by deft licorice root laced spice and tannins that will be smooth, but now have a splintery licorice root laced burr, and flow into a long licorice root laced finish. It's a toddler, and a pleasant one -- no tantrums here -- but still of that age, and while you could drink the wine now, it will richly reward you if you give it the time it needs to grow up. I would figure a decade or more.88-90

Lorenzo Begali Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2009

Lot 11 031Pyrope with violet rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intense and sweet, with rich prune fruit supported by slight sandalwood and pleasant greenish accents with underlying greenish warmth and some pleasant spice. A lot going on, and frankly voluptuous. On the palate it's full and sweet, with powerful prune fruit supported by warmth and prune acidity, and also by sweet slightly greenish tannins that have some sandalwood accents, and flow into a long warm prune laced finish with bright prune acidity to hold it up, and pleasing sweetness for balance. A beautiful Recioto that will add magic to a selection of cheeses, or be perfect to sip far from the table with friends (while waiting for the Amarone to mature).92

Thursday, April 12, 2012

...How good the Pecorino at the discount superstore is, with or without pears. An indecent, but sincere confession from someone in the food field who found a first-rate cheese in a superstore, not a food boutique.

I'll admit it, I've been wanting to write this article for almost a year, but for quallid political correctness I waited. How could I have confessed that the best cheese I've had in quite a while was an everyday pecorino toscano, of the "aged" category, which sold for 15 Euros/k in a discount superstore?

I'll even confess more: I buy it often, and it has never failed me. Quite the contrary, friends and acquaintances have invariably liked it, drawn in by the cherry-effect, with every slice you nibble you feel you must have just one more.

Nothing superfluous; the cheesemaker's site not only doesn't have a picture of this cheese, but doesn't even mention it, which means it's produced especially for supermarkets, in simply labeled half-kilo (about a pound) wedges.

Let's therefore ignore the outside, the dark skin and the simple plastic wrap of this Pecorino Toscano DOP made by the Caseificio Dell'Amiata SpA http://www.alival.it/amiata.htm in Castel Del Piano (Province of Grosseto), which is owned by the Alival Group in Pistoia: It's great, and there's no need to say more.

The rind is very thin. The aging is just about perfect, a balance between residual freshness and dryness that is not yet enough to make the cheese crumbly, with a nice pale yellow body with excellent texture that's firm to the knife, but deliciously tender when bitten. On the tongue it's full bodied and ample, without the slightest trace of gumminess, nor is it grainy, with aromas that are rich and intense but also show sobriety, and a long savory aftertaste. It's inviting but not ingratiating, nor obvious, and will find favor with those who want something to nibble upon, and also those who seek cheeses to think about.

A cheese, let me make clear, that I know nothing about, except for what I have written and what I found on the cheesemaker's site http://www.alival.it/amiata.htm. No further research, not phone calls. I just trusted my palate. And I tried to remember when I had tasted something similar.

I have, of course. But limited production cheeses, given sparingly and served like fine wines, in tiny slices garnished exquisitely, and almost impossible to find without great effort. Sometimes expensive, and sometimes less so.

Here instead one can chow down, the package and the price permit it.

And for once let's set snobbery aside and cut to the quick, at a blind tasting this cheese would make a splash, upstaging many award-winning pecorini. Gotta admit it, one can find surprising things in supermarkets too. But it's best not to bandy it about overmuch.

Edited to Add: Stefano says he bought this wonderful cheese at Penny Market.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Rivera is one of the most important wineries in northern Puglia, and a number of years ago I was fortunate enough to be invited to a vertical of Il Falcone, the ageworthy red wine they made (and make) with the finest of their red grapes, the bulk of which were at one time instead destined to making rosato, which has always been popular in Puglia and rightly so.

It was a memorable occasion, and this year they very kindly sent me their new releases, which include a Fiano I do not recall having tasted before. With wines like these it is best to cut to the quick and discuss them:

Rivera Scariazza Fiano Puglia IGT 2010

Lot 14330Brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections. the bouquet is powerful, with rich savory butterscotch supported by gunflint and lemony fruit with fairly intense bitter undertones and nice minerality. Considerable power, but with restraint. On the palate it's ample, and quite savory, with considerable mineral laced citric fruit supported by a certain languid fullness derived from glycerin (I think) and abundant sea salt that leads into a long savory finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with elegant roasted or grilled fish, and is also a wine that will age nicely for at least 3-5 years. As a general rule I prefer Fiano that's unoaked, because oak tends to mask some of the varietal characteristics, but I am not objecting here.90

Rivera Pungirosa Bombino Nero Castel del Monte DOC 2011

Lot N66GCLively almost electric rose pink with brilliant reflections and rim that pales to white. The bouquet is fresh, with some raspberry fruit supported by heather and slight alcohol, and by underlying raspberry and forest berry fruit acidity. Refreshing. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with moderately intense raspberry fruit supported by light tannins that have slightly flinty brambly burr and by some greenish acidity, which lead into a fairly ling warm slightly greenish finish. It's quite fresh, a classic summer wine that will work very well with cool dishes, and also be a nice picnic or cookout wine, in the latter case for those who don't want a red (and you can expect some of those who generally drink reds to choose it instead).88-90

Rivera Violante Nero di Troia Castel del Monte DOC 2008

Lot LM301HDeep violet ruby with black reflections and violet towards the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with spicy berry fruit supported by dusky shadowy accents and some Marseilles soap, which gives way to sandalwood spice and some sea salt. Quite a bit going on in a fresh key. On the palate it's fairly light, with deft cherry fruit that has some black currant accents, and is supported by fairly mineral acidity, and by tannins that have a distinctly graphitic bitter vein to them, and flow into a fairly long rather bitter graphite laced dark berry fruit finish. It's deft, and quite tannic, a hallmark of Nero di Troia, and because of this not a sipping wine, but one that will go quite well with succulent grilled meats, for example lamb chops. If you like smoother sorter wines it won't work for you, but if you like this sort of tannic structure you will enjoy it.2 stars

Rivera Puer Apuliae Nero di Troia Castel del Monte DOC 2007

Lot ?433AR (first letter illegible)Inky pyrope that stays inky almost to the rim, where it does pale to deep ruby. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit laced with blackberry fruit and supported by a fair amount of cedar and some greenish vegetal accents; it's more powerful than Violante, and also more international in feel. On the palate it's ample and very smooth, with fairly rich plum cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are very smooth and have slight savory notes to them, and lead into a clean rather savory finish with some mineral acidity. It's quite elegant, and quite polished, and succeeds perfectly in what it is obviously intended to be, which is an international gateway towards Apulian wines; the fruit is Nero di Troia, while the tannins are more polished and smoother than Nero di Troia's would be if left to their own devices, and the wine is therefore more approachable and something one could drink by the glass. As to whether it is more interesting is another matter; I have always found Puer Apuliae impressive, but have always preferred Violante, because in it the varietal shines though more clearly, and this pair of vintages is no exception. If you are unfamiliar with Nero di Troia, and would like to start with a powerful, smoother interpretation, this is a good place to start. If you are more adventuresome, I would go directly to Violante.2 stars

Rivera Cappellaccio Aglianico Castel del Monte DOC Riserva 2006

Lot LM652FDeep black almandine with black reflections paling slightly but remaining almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit laced with leather and some leaf tobacco, and supported by considerable underbrush with some mineral acidity; there's something rather exotic and seductive about it. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich leaf tobacco laced berry fruit supported by savory tannins and fairly bright mineral acidity that flow into a tannic finish with a leaf tobacco and graphite shaving burr that continues at length. Pleasant, in a rather powerful key, and still quite young; it's a wine that demands more flavorful meats, along the lines of leg of lamb or a well marbled porterhouse steak cooked rare, and that also has considerable aging capacity.90-92

Rivera Il Falcone Castel del Monte DOC Riserva 2006

Lot LM971GDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and still quite young, with mentholated berry fruit supported by fairly intense dusky spice and some underlying greenish accents, and also fairly intense minerality. It's not quite a work in progress, but more towards that side of the spectrum. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with powerful cherry and forest berry fruit supported by minerality and warm cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean warm berry fruit finish with pronounced cedar accents, and while it is pleasant, and displays considerable depth, it is also obviously young, younger than the Cappellaccio, and will reward those with the patience to give it another 3-5 years; I would expect it to age well for a decade or more, and be much better in the future than it is now.88-90

Friday, April 06, 2012

This year the Vernaccia Consorzio organized a meeting between Vernaccia and Chenin Blanc -- several different wines from the Loire Valley -- and asked Ernesto Gentili, who led the first Vernaccia comparison, to guide the panel.

He began by noting San Gimignano has made tremendous strides over the past seven years; in the first comparison, with ago with Chablis, they had a difficult time finding a sufficient number of worthy Vernacce. This year there were 20, and rather than simply select the best tout court they were able to base their selection on an attempt to identify the Vernaccia terroirs -- Vernaccia from calcareous, tuffaceous, clayey, and stony soils, all of which give different results.

Vernaccia has, he noted, many small, ambitious winemakers who are willing to make the effort it takes to draw the most from their land, and this, coupled with the undeniable potential of the varietal, is San Gimignano's strength. In short, the potential is there, and there is much work to be done.

The last thing about this comparison: While basing the selection on microareas, Ernesto consciously excluded those who have participated in previous comparisons, opening the way to people less well known to the wine world.

And, to my great pleasure, to Elisabetta Fagioli, who has finally joined the Consorzio, and presented a spellbinding Montenidoli Vernaccia Carato 2002. That it was as good as it was came as no surprise to me, because I have tasted older bottles of her wines, but it had fellow journalists smiling and and raising their eyebrows, and that was very nice to see. Vintage presentations are not the place for wine writers to play favorites, but with an old and dear friend I will make an exception.

Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with minerality and slight airiness mingled with hints of iodine and slight spice, and as it opens some bitter almond and hints of loquat. On the palate it's fairly rich, with languid lemony fruit laced with passion fruit and slight loquat, and supported by savory minerality that flows into a warm fairly savory finish with some bitter underpinning. Pleasant, and though it needs time -- another year -- for the nose to develop, it will work well as an aperitif or with fish or white meats now. If you like tighter wines it won't work as well for you, though if you prefer a softer expression of Vernaccia you will enjoy it considerably.2 stars

Brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly mineral with considerable gunflint; it's like struck granite, and is quite deft. On the palate it's ample and languid, with fairly rich minerality supported by some glycerin that gives fullness, and by underlying citric citron acidity that carries into a long citron finish. Deft and quite pleasant, with a lot to say. Impressive.88-90

Brilliant brassy yellow with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with minerality and gunflint laced with bitter butterscotch and some greenish vegetal accents; a fellow taster finds hydrocarbons and is right; with time some cola also emerges. Powerfully oaked, and though deft is very much influenced by the wood; it's not a wine I would automatically identify as Vernaccia. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich mineral laced bitter almonds and loquat fruit again heavily influenced by oak that resolves into savory rather bitter butterscotch with sea salt as all fades. It's quite nice, but not strictly related to Vernaccia.2 stars

Brassy yellow with brilliant greenish highlights. The bouquet is powerful, with bitter gunflint and savory accents mingled with some hydrocarbons that might have been bouillon were they less intense, and bitter almond. On the palate it's savory, with bitter gunflint minerality and chewy spice supported by some languidity and slight bitter mineral acidity; and flows into a fairly long bitter finish. It's a bit coarser than some of the others, and I found it giving an impression of trying very hard.2 stars

Deep brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable greenish butterscotch supported by hydrocarbons and bitter almonds with some gunflint as well, and hints of leather and savory accents; as it opens also some sweet cola. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by butterscotch laced bitter minerality and sea salt, and also by some citron acidity, which flows into a clean savory bitter finish. Pleasant, and has quite a bit to say.2 stars

Fermented in large wood, without temperature control. Bright brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some milky acidity at the outset supported by greenish savory accents and some bitter minerality; it has quite a bit to say though it demands more attention than some -- more delicate and a fellow taster also found cooked apples. On the palate it's bright, with deft mineral acidity and pleasant savory gunflint that flows into a clean fresh finish. It's quite pleasant in a deft key with considerable finesse and is a wine that will give a great deal to those willing to give it time and attention. Not a flashy wine, but there are all too many of those.88-90

Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy gold reflections and slight greenish highlights, and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with pleasant savory minerality supported by slight heather, almonds, and deft spice mingled with blossoms and hints of orange as well; it's an extraordinarily harmonious nose and one could write and write without really getting to the heart of the matter. Very impressive, and develops beautifully in the glass. On the palate it's ample, with rich lemony fruit supported by savory minerality and deft languidity, and flows into a long graceful finish. Beautiful, and a wine that one can hold a long conversation with. Most impressive.94

We then tasted several wines from the Loire Valley:

Domaine Frantz Saumon Montlouis-sur-Loire Mineral+ 2010

Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with wood smoke mingled with dried apples and bramble, and also some butterscotch with underlying sweetness and hints of hydrocarbons. Intense and fresh in a moelleux key . On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with lively dried apple fruit supported by bright apple acidity, and flows into a clean bright apple laced finish with some underlying cut apple bitterness. Interesting, and quite approachable, with the acidity necessary to work well with succulent white meats and also fried foods, and a pleasant sweet underpinning that integrates very well with the acidity88-90

Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont 2010

Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents supported by some minerality and slight green apple. Gives an impression of crispness. On the palate it's ample, and much more languid than one would expect from the nose, with fairly rich Gray Pippin apple fruit supported by deft lemony acidity, and flows into a clean Grey Pippin finish with pleasant fairly sweet acidity. Quite rich, and will work well with foods of all kinds.2 stars

P'tit Domaine Saumur Entre Deux Voyes 2009

Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some butterscotch mingled with green apples and pleasant spice; it's quite fresh and has a lot to say, with slightly greenish hydrocarbons that emerge to provide an underpinning. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful minerality supported by deft savory citric acidity and by some minerality and sea salt, and flow into a long mineral laced savory finish. Quite impressive, and quite young, and will go places with time. Quite nice with beautiful freshness.90

Domaine des Roches Neuves Sameur L'Insolite 2009

Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with mineral laced apple fruit supported by slight hydrocarbons, and deft accents that bring to mind spun sugar. Quite fresh, and is clearly still developing, though it already has quite a bit to say now. On the palate it's bright, though more languid than some of the others, with lemony acidity more than apple fruit, supported by considerable minerality and by delicate white grape tannins that have a slightly greenish burr, and flow into a clean savory mineral laced finish with pineapple accents. It comes across as being from a hotter vintage or perhaps a hotter area, and while very pleasant -- there is acidity, but of the pineapple variety -- doesn't quite have the verve of some of the others. Good, however, and which you prefer is a matter of personal taste.2 stars

Coulèe de Serrant - Nicolas Joly Savennières Coulée de Serrant 2008

Brilliant brassy yellow with slight greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with minerality and some hydrocarbons mingled with dried apple and some savory minerality and a certain mineral airiness. Mineral… On the palate it's pleasant and quite mineral with gunflint laced apple fruit supported by savory accents that flows into a long fresh moderately sweet apple laced gunflint mineral finish with pleasant greenish accents. Quite fresh, and while it's quick to write it has a lot to say.88-90

Taken as a group the French wines were quite interesting, but did not -- and one cannot expect this since they were from several appellations -- present a unified front that once could compare with the Vernaccia. Rather, they showed various aspects of the Chenin Blanc grape, and offered a nice picture of the varietal.

The Current Releases tasted February 20 2012

The Consorzio also organized a presentation of the current releases of Vernaccia, which I was quite curious about, because the major player was the 2011 vintage, which I was rather worried about: Put simply, I feared it would reflect two horrible weather patterns, the cool wet weather that carried through July and the first half of August and the searing temperatures that began August 19 and continued though the end of the harvest. Instead I was pleasantly surprised in many cases by nice acidities and fruit that had reached ripeness. It's not a great vintage, but it is pleasant.

Owing to time considerations, I tasted a selection, rather than all of the wines.

Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather pungent., with bitter accents and some wet leaves, with some gunflint bitterness as well. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense minerality supported by slight acidity, and flowing into a fairly long bitter mineral finish. It's almost devoid of acidity, as if the ripening got away from them, and it is consequently weaker than I might have liked.1 star

Casa Alle Vacche I Macchioni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2011

Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, vinous with heather and bramble mingled with some almond blossoms and pleasant minerality, some sea salt too. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh white fruit supported by lemony mineral acidity and pleasant greenish vegetal accents that flow into a clean fresh fairly sweet finish with slight loquat and underlying heather from a Tuscan field. Pleasingly graceful, and will work very well as an aperitif or with foods.2 stars

Barrel sampleBrassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather bitter, with vegetal accents and gunflint supported by some sea salt; not yet really defined. On the palate it's ample and greenish, with a full savory languid with and some gunflint bitterness, flowing into a fairly brief savory finish. It's still working though what it wants to be when it grows up, but will revolve around savory minerality and gunflint, I rather think.

Casale Falchini Ab Vinea Doni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010

Lively brassy yellow with brilliant golden reflections. The bouquet is deft, with butterscotch mingled with minerality and some almond blossoms; it's pleasantly deft. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with moderately intense lemon laced loquat minerality supported by moderate gunflint bitterness laced with slight butterscotch and flowing into a rather flinty finish. It's languid, and a little looser than I might have liked; if you prefer tighter more bracing whites you will find it a trifle lax; if you instead prefer whites that are less aggressive it is graceful in a slightly more curvy than lithe key, and will work well as an aperitif or with foods.2 stars

Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bitter almonds and heather mingled with savory minerality and a deft gunflint underpinning that brings struck granite to mind, and as it opens savory butterscotch. On the palate it's a little more languid than the nose suggests, with bitter accents and minerality laced with fairly intense butterscotch that flows into a fairly long gunflint laced finish with a pleasant butterscotch underpinning. Graceful and harmonious, and will work well as an aperitif or with foods.2 stars

Rubicini Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2011

Barrel sampleBrassy greenish gold with brassy rf and white rim the bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal notes and some bitter almond mingled with savory spice. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderately intense savory minerality supporting some citric fruit, but not much, and it flows into a clean bitter finish. Fairly direct, and while it is a barrel sample I would have liked a little more verve.

Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is greenish, with grass and hints of artichokes mingled with almond skins and some sea salt, and as it opens lemony accents. On the palate it's fairly rich and quite mineral on the outset, with a pleasing mineral fullness supported by lemony acidity that brings to mind Easter lemons, and flows into a long citric finish. Graceful in a more acidic key, and will work very well with foods, including fried fish or meats2 stars

Cesani Sanice Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2009

Brilliant golden yellow with golden reflections. The bouquet is intense, and riper than most, with tropical fruit, passion fruit and some very ripe pineapple in particular, supported by sweetish accents and alcohol. On the palate it's ample and languid, with fairly rich pineapple fruit that gains direction from moderate pineapple acidity, and is supported by some gunflint minerality as well, which gains in intensity in the finish, where some bitter almonds also emerge. It's richer and riper, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably. If you prefer tighter more acidic, aggressive wines it won't work as well for you, though you will find things to think about.2 stars

Barrel samplePale slightly greenish cloudy white -- hasn't been filtered yet. The bouquet is fairly intense, with minerality and some yeasts supported by hints of greenish almond skin and sea salt. On the palate it's languid, with fairly bright lemony fruit supported by dusky greenish accents and some savory notes, flowing into a fairly long almond laced bitter finish. Interesting, and will have quite a bit to say.

Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with savory pungency and some petroleum, and as it opens cool vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and rather mineral, with minerality more than fruit and only moderate acidity, which leads into a mineral finish with gunflint bitterness that gradually emerges. It is more mineral than acidic and this is the vintage I think, though there is a degree of harmony to it.1 star

Il Lebbio Tropie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2011

Barrel samplePale slightly greenish brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is sweeter, with floral accents and some butterscotch mingled with heather and sweetish spice, while there is also some underlying minerality. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with fairly rich bitter almond laced lemony fruit that is also supported by some gunflint laced minerality, and flows into a fairly long rather bitter mineral finish with a slight burr. Promising in a fairly aggressive bitter key, and is a wine that you will like if you like this style.

Brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with gunflint and minerality supported by slight hints of pineapple and some bitter almond. On the palate it's deft, with pleasant minerality supported by glycerin that gives fullness coupled with hints of pineapple and menthol, and considerable minerality that flows into a long slightly bitter mineral finish that brings to mind granite -- memories of youthful days when I was studying geology, and it has a pleasing deftness to it. It will work well as either aperitif or with foods.2 stars

Barrel sampleBrassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though slight medicinal accents emerge mingled with some sea salt and eucalyptus. On the palate it's bright, with lemony eucalyptus laced fruit supported by savory bitterness that flows into a dusky heather laced finish that brings a cut field in summer to mind, supported by some languidity. Quite direct, and will work well with foods supporting while not demanding center stage.

Pietrafitta Borghetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2011

Barrel sampleBrassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory accents and hints of bouillon; it is clearly a bit up in the air and working on what it wants to be. On the palate it's ample and languid, with moderate lemony fruit supported by greenish accents that flow into a savory greenish finish; it gives an impression of trying quite hard, but is coming up short, and I found myself wanting less heft and more definition.

Barrel samplepale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright almond blossoms mingled with minerality and some sea salt, and some warm mineral acidity as well. Pleasant. On the palate it's deft, with bright savory minerality supported by delicate loquat acidity that flows into a clean slightly peppery mineral finish, and while it's quick to write it also has a pleasing deftness and will work quite well with foods. Pleasant and quite promising, a wine that will be worth seeking out.

Signano Poggiarelli Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2011

Barrel samplePale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is greenish, with bitter almonds and sea breeze mingled with heather from a cut field. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense lemony fruit supported by some minerality and slight gunflint; it's somewhat lacking in verve and definition, and I found myself wishing it were tighter -- it feels as if the ripeness got away from them.

Barrel samplePale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and bitter almonds laced with some minerality and slight greenish accents that bring scalded milk to mind. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively tart sour lemon fruit supported by brambly mineral acidity that has a decidedly peppery burr, and flows into a fairly long peppery acidic finish. It has some fire to it, and is very young; it needs another year to come together and will age nicely for several more years thereafter.

Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2009

Pale brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish notes and hydrocarbons mingled with green almond fuzz and a fair amount of bitterness that has slight savory accents as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemon-laced bitterness and a fair amount of alcohol that confers warmth, while there is also gunflint minerality that continues into a fairly long peppery finish.. Pleasant, and though quite young has a lot to say and will also age well.2 stars

Barrel samplePale brassy yellow with brilliant greenish brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though some spicy minerality emerges, coupled with considerable heather and some almond blossoms. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with fairly bright lemony fruit supported by savory mineral accents and flows into a clean mineral finish with mineral acid underpinning,. Quite promising in a vibrant, deft key.

San Quirico Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2011Barrel samplePale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with heather and some spice, and also some hydrocarbons with underlying gunflint minerality, On the palate it's a bit more languid than I expected, with moderately intense savory minerality supported by gunflint and some heather from a cut field, flowing into a greenish bitter mineral finish with citron underpinning. Pleasant in a more languid key, but is more behind than some of the other barrel samples; it may have a little less verve though it's soon to say.

San Quirico Isabella Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2006

Barrel sampleBrassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is up in the air, with savory notes and some butterscotch supported by warmth and brambles, and as it opens some petroleum. On the palate it's ample and bright, with warm lemony fruit that has a slight butterscotch and bitter gunflint underpinning, and is supported by a peppery burr and greenish vegetal acidity that flow into a fairly bright savory finish. Promising, in a rather tart zesty key, and will drink very well with fried fish or meats, and also with hearty vegetable dishes.

Brassy slightly greenish white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and almond blossom mingled with some graphite shavings and minerality, and a certain coolness that brings to mind dappled shade. Deft. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich minerality supported by bitter accents, while there is some glycerin that provides fullness, and it flows into a clean rather bitter mineral finish. Pleasant, in a zesty rather brooding key, and also has nice aging potential.2 stars

San Donato Benedetta Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2009

Brilliant brassy gold with golden reflections and white rim; it's a bit more charged than many. The bouquet is intense, with butterscotch and some chocolaty liqueur mingled with some spice. A bit unusual, and with more oak than most, though I have an impression that it is large oak folding in -- it doesn't have the intensity of small oak. In other words, the wine is still developing. On the palate it's ample with bright minerality and some lemo9n fruit supported by bitter gunflint and some peppery spice, which flow into a clean rather brambly peppery mineral finish. It's pleasant but very young, and needs at least a year (two would be better) to come together and find itself.2 stars

Barrel samplePale cloudy greenish white; it's not yet filtered. The bouquet is greenish with some alcohol and slight graphite shaving bitterness, and also some lemony fruit. Promising though at present one-dimensional; it's very much a work in progress. On the palate it's pleasingly lemony with an underpinning of loquat, and supported by ample rather dusky acidity that flows into a clean slightly greenish bitter finish with a peppery burr. It promises nicely.

Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky greenish vegetal notes mingled with some spice and minerality, and by some pungency that is also a factor of considerable youth. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with fairly intense lemony fruit supported by dusky greenish gunflint minerality and a slight peppery burr that flows into a fairly long citric finish. It's a bit more languid than some, and if you prefer that to more tightly woven wines with brighter acidities -- though there is minerality that keeps it up -- you will enjoy it.2 stars

Brilliant greenish brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some wet paper and slight savory minerality with hints of citron. It's still in mid stride and hasn't recovered at all from bottling. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with some savory citric fruit supported by slight minerality; it's a bit laxer than I might have liked, and while the nose will recover some, the palate will remain lax.1 star

Barrel samplePale slightly cloudy brassy gold; it is transparent but not crystalline. The bouquet is smoky, with bitter gunflint and some citrus, citron in particular, and pleasant greenish vegetal accents. Enjoyable. On the palate it's still coming together, with moderate acidity and fairly pronounced minerality that flow into a dusky rather bitter finish. It will I think become rather graceful in a lithe key, though it's too soon to say.

Attn: Wine Retailers

Links

IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.