Tale of the thriving herbs

J.M. HIRSCHAssociated Press

Published Thursday, August 25, 2005

click photo to enlarge

Basic Basil Pesto is a great way to use some of the abundant fresh herbs now available. There are countless variations, but basic pesto recipes puree fresh basil, nuts, Parmesan cheese, olive oil and garlic into a piquant green sauce that is great over pasta, for dipping bread and for slathering on sandwiches. Appealing alternative recipes use other fresh herbs, such as tarragon, thyme, parsley, mint and oregano. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)

CONCORD, N.H. -- Sometimes abundance can be such a bother.

Despite months of planning and tending to tender seedlings, my herb garden had a depressing start this year.

The perennials always do fine. The oregano, sage, thyme, lavender, mint and chives reliably return early in spring and burst into rotund bushes with little prodding from me.

It's the annuals that always give me trouble. This year I decided to try sprouting my own seedlings. I usually buy them, given my tendency to ignore those I start until they dry up and are appropriate only as compost.

But this year I attempted to grow my own, with surprising success. That is, until I put them in the ground and some anonymous critter munched them clear down to the dirt.

Though I was convinced it now was too late to put annuals in the ground, I nevertheless brought home a handful of seedlings from a nursery. This time I erected excessive critter controls, poured on some fertilizer and let them go.

A month later I am being overrun by basil, cilantro, parsley and dill. Despite a growing season that has offered little besides scorching heat and torrential rains, my herbs are thriving.

This brings guilt. I hate wasting food, especially good herbs that would cost a fortune at the grocer. But my family can consume only so many herbs.

So I've taken to using them in everything, from garnishing goat cheese to tossing with olive oil and pasta.I was glad to see a feature on pesto in the August/September issue of EatingWell magazine, a luscious publication that focuses on healthy foods with rustic, everyman appeal.

Pesto "is to summer's herbs what refrigerator jams are to fresh fruit: the best way to keep the crisp taste around for a few weeks," write authors Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarborough.

The authors suggest using a salad spinner to wash and dry fresh herbs. They also urge cooks to use a high-quality extra-virgin olive oil, though other foodies argue such oils are too assertive for pesto. It's a matter of taste.

Once made, pesto will keep refrigerated for up to three days. To store, top the pesto with a thin layer of olive oil and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface.

Basic Basil Pesto

(Start to finish 20 minutes)

2 cups packed fresh basil leaves

1/4 cup walnut pieces, toasted

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp. water

1 large clove garlic, quartered

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper

Combine all ingredients in a food processor.

Pulse several times, then process until fairly smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.

Makes about 1 cup.

Tarragon Pesto

(Start to finish 20 minutes)

1 cup packed fresh tarragon leaves

1 cup packed flat-leaf parsley leaves

1/3 cup hazelnuts, toasted and skinned

2 tbsp. water

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp. butter

1 tbsp. lemon juice

1 small clove garlic, quartered

1/4 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper

Combine all ingredients in a food processor. Pulse several times, then process until fairly smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Makes about 1 cup.

Goat Cheese Pesto

(Start to finish 15 minutes)

4 ounces soft goat cheese, crumbled

1 cup packed flat-leaf parsley leaves

1/2 cup packed fresh oregano leaves

2 tbsp. water

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper

1/4 tsp. salt

Combine all ingredients in a food processor. Pulse several times, then process until fairly smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Makes about 1 cup.