I love mail-order wines from the Wine Society. Consistently fine bottles, including their own-label offerings, notably efficient service and decent prices. So what's the catch? We-ell, you have to be a member, and membership costs £40. That's for life, though, and it buys you a share in this not-for-profit company. Which, wait for it, you can bequeath to someone else after your death.

That bit makes me laugh – indeed, as a member I must make my nomination quickly in case I go under a bus tomorrow. So which boozy friend gets the Wine Soc sub? Hmm… Anyway, clearly I use the Wine Society, as do several close relations and friends, and it's definitely worth a one-off £40; indeed membership (given by you, while alive) makes an original present. And you don't have to take my word for it – the International Wine Challenge has judged it best mail-order merchant 12 times out of the past 15 years.

At the moment they have 1,500 wines to choose from, costing between £4 and £400 (though you won't find much at all of interest under a fiver a bottle). At a recent tasting in London I sampled 60. It should be said they were a relatively traditional set – the Wine Society is not exactly rock 'n' roll – but standards were typically high, and I especially liked the Australian range, the white burgundies, the South Africans and the upmarket Californians on show. Less so the Italians this time, but nobody's perfect. To access all areas, visit thewinesociety.com or call 01438 741177.

A sweetly ripe big bruiser with plush cassis and blueberry fruit. A satisfying blend of shiraz and cabernet to bring out with roast lamb

TIPPLE TIP golden wonders...

'Sweet golden wines are delectable sipped cool with an autumnal plate of dried fruit and nuts. Choose figs and apricots, hazelnuts and walnuts, and add a broken slab of dark chocolate, perhaps. Best wines for the job are sweet French muscats and Hungarian tokajis. It's the perfect no-effort pudding'