I have a Lifesize team 220 ( http://www.ias.edu/files/pdfs/LifeSize_Team220_Datasheet_EN.pdf )
Im attempting to split the HDMI signal over to cat6 using baluns. Sending the signal direct to the sender balun, cat6 run to receiver balun works flawlessly. The problem is I need the signal split. Ive I tried to use splitter pigtails like (THIS) but the 220 device displays "Not Supported" and I lose signal.

Lifesize/Logitec support call the tech states that signal splitters are not supported. I assume its because they don't want you capturing the steams directly to DVR , (since they offer a paid service for this with even propitiatory equipment.) so perhaps there is some hardware security detection? I simply don't know. I desperately need a workaround.

I have a Lifesize team 220 ( http://www.ias.edu/files/pdfs/LifeSize_Team220_Datasheet_EN.pdf )
Im attempting to split the HDMI signal over to cat6 using baluns. Sending the signal direct to the sender balun, cat6 run to receiver balun works flawlessly. The problem is I need the signal split. Ive I tried to use splitter pigtails like (THIS) but the 220 device displays "Not Supported" and I lose signal.

Lifesize/Logitec support call the tech states that signal splitters are not supported. I assume its because they don't want you capturing the steams directly to DVR , (since they offer a paid service for this with even propitiatory equipment.) so perhaps there is some hardware security detection? I simply don't know. I desperately need a workaround.

I'm hoping for a few suggestions.

Thanks,

Brett

Wow. I think I understand why you got the response that you did from Logitec. Why would you think an unpowered analog splitter would work with a digital signal that has bidirectional components? Unfortunately eBay is full of things that don't work the way the ad claims.

What I'd suggest is that you take a step back and read about HDMI and how it works. Basically, HDMI sends high speed (up to 10.2 gpbs) bits consisting in audio, video and control information. The sinks (a TV for instance) also communicate with the sources (such as a Blu-Ray player) to tell the sources what the sink's capabilities are. So the information is bi-directional. The signal from the sink to the source is called the EDID.

One of many bad things that happen when you try to use an analog splitter with an HDMI signal is that the two EDIDs from the two sinks get combined into one very confused signal. This usually leads to a non supported. There are other bad things that will occur such as HDCP handshaking issues and the greater chance of bit errors with the audio and video. Basically it won't work.

Normally I'd recommend you get a powered splitter (distribution amp) to handle this. If you really wanted to go with cat 6, then you could try one of the many devices that Octava and other manufacturers make.

However, looking at the spec for the Lifesize, there are many proprietary things going on with this device. The strangest is that the video output shows the proper resolutions but the bitrates are very low indicating compressed video. Do you have to use a special monitor with this system or can you use a regular TV?

If you let me know if a regular HDTV can be used then we can go from there. Bottom line, if you are trying to use something that isn't powered, it isn't going to work with HDMI.

Hey thanks for your reply, I appreciate it. I need to get the signal to (3) AOC 32 LCD L32W961's im using a cat6 infastructure with THESE

Got it. When you plug the Lifesize directly into the AOC L32W961 over HDMI (no conversion), does it work properly? What resolution is used? I know it's a 720p HDTV, but many 720p TVs from 2010 accepted 1080p as input. So, knowing what resolution works with a direct connection will help.

Even if you don't have a video source attached to the Lifesize, even seeing a menu display when attached directly to the AOC will help.

Assuming that works, then from what I read the eBay converters should work without any modifications, except for one item I just noticed. Did those converters come with the AC adapters that plug into the AC sockets? If not, you'll most likely need to find the AC adapters to make everything work properly. Again, this is assuming a direct connection with only HDMI works.

It seems like the first thing you want to do, as mentioned above, is to test the extenders you have purchased.

The next thing to do is get a quality HDMI splitter.

All pieces must be powered to ensure some level of reliability, but you need to keep in mind that after buying a premium VTC unit, you are now going with the cheapest made products to finish up the installation, and your results will be hit or miss.

Power supplies can be bad, HDCP or EDID could be poorly managed, and a hundred other little things could be going on.

Monoprice sells some decent HDMI splitters which may work fine.

Purelink sells HDMI splitters which WILL work, guaranteed.

There are other companies out there as well which have HDMI splitters which are guaranteed to work.

Similarly, the HDMI extender you list may or may not work well and could introduce their own problems, so you definitely want to check every piece, one by one. That is, check every extender, check every display, then when you get a powered HDMI splitter check it without the HDMI extenders, with good HDMI cables, then check it by adding one extender at a time to the mix.

Even the displays could present an issue in this type of scenario if they aren't properly delivering EDID information or have any HDCP quirks, but I would expect them to be less of an issue than the rest.