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I was asked to modify darksword's BKBT helmet (previously owned by Devilstar) Originally, I was going to just do the same magnet mod that I did to mine, simple as that. However, upon recieving the helmet, there turns out to be a bit more work then I had thought.

I dont know if this is how it was originally or what, but the RF box does not have the two dome details. I was thinking of just using LED's, drill, and drop them in. But Ive realized that when I need to actually attach it to the stalk itself, I fear that I will drill right into where the LED's are located.

The alternate method was something I saw someone do before, but I cannot remember what he used. It was a shallow drilled hole, with I think beads? I would actually prefer this method more though, but I need help figuring out what beads I would need.

Anyhoo, I guess this can also be somewhat of a tutorial for doing this mod, because I was asked a few times about what I had done. Its nothing major, but I did it really because it makes it easier to remove the stalk for transportation, and also in the hopes that I would install a servo in the future.

So here are the obligatory pics and a description of things you may need or what Im using.

First-Just as is out of the box (stalk not pictured) Gotta say its a really decent helmet, its a BKBT, resembles mine alot, but unlike mine, is really light, and the fiberglass is alot thinner as well.

So what I have here is pictured pretty much everything you'll need, at least I will for this job:

-Hobbytown 2 part epoxy, mid-cure. This is not the same brand epoxy I used, and Im going to have to experiment with this to get the drying times right, but I wasnt really sure about the differences in quick cure, mid and long?

-Rustolium: royal blue-Just pictured, had to buy it (gave my old cans away to mark)

- 3 packs of 1/8 inch rare earth magnets; total: 6 magnets

- A vice-Yes, you dont want your RF stalk to move at all when you need to make a countersink! Got this for 21 bucks over at HD

- Chicago screw- for the stalk so that you can move it up and down smooth, along with some spacers for added tightness

This is my RF stalk, to show what I'll be doing

Showing how the screw lays in

After this mod is all over and done with, Im going to have to weather it so that it will match, so according to Devilstar's list, I picked up black and "brown oxide" at walmart

Now here's a comparison shot between the two helmets w/ mock up

I think now that since Im goin to be adding the weathering to his helmet, that I might in fact..weather mine. I remember alot of you guys telling me to, so your gettin your wish

Total cost for all the supplies mentioned is around $50 (includes vice)

Sorry, forgot to update. Ive just made a countersink into the stalk, not that much different looking from mine above. I put about 3 coats of the blue on the earcaps, so im just waiting for them to dry up so i can paint the other sides.

After a few days of painting and then clear coating the ear caps, they are ready for the magnet mod.

The most popular way of doing this is with 3 magnets, and they hold up pretty well. In this case, Im using the rare earth metal magnets, 1/8 inch size you get at radioshack.

When painting is done, you want to pic 3 spots where you would like to place the magents. From this, I use a 7/32" drill bit to make the depressions (Ive seen other people make a depression in both earcaps so that the magnets sit flush with the tops of the holes, but I prefer one side having the depression deep enough so that the magnets on the removable cap just slide into place.)

So you place the earcap onto the vice (the one that you will actually be attatching to the helmet) and you proceed to drill the three holes. You need to make it deep enough so that 2 magnets on top of each other will just barely sit flush to the top of the hole. You need just a little bit to stick out so that when you attach one magnet to the other earcap, it will have something to grip to.

After you have done this to all three holes, making sure that they are all the same or very close to it, you should be ready to start going to the next step

I epoxied one magnet to the removable side of the earcap. Im still really 'testing' to see how long it takes to fully cure, and its been on for about 30 minutes now, and appears to be staying stronger then the last brand I had used previously.

I discovered a better way to align the magnets to the holes. Using the same black paint I had bought for weathering, you place in each hole, two magnets just as if from earlier when you were checking the depth of it. Take a little of the paint, and dap it onto the top of each magnet. Then carefully place the other cap over it, align it as it should sit together, and press firmly for a few seconds. Then carefull pull off the earcap. It should leave a mark that you will use a guide for gluing the magnets. Once after you applied the epoxy to the magnet, place it onto the paint mark, and let it sit for awhile.

Come back to it, and check on it, this next step for aligning will make it align itself 100% The epoxy should be dry enough that it dosnt move, but does slide a bit with a little bit of pressure. What you will then need to do, is take the cap with the holes, and align the magnet to the corrosponding hole, push the two togther, and align the edges of the caps. If the magnet was not exactly aligned, the aligning the edges should slide the magnet into place. Carefully seperate the earcaps, the magnet should be in its new position, use a small brush, and put a little bit of epoxy on the outside of the magnet's edges, and leave it to dry. Its not exactly the 'cleanest,' but it works.

I sanded the cast leds off on purpose... They were 'bubbly' and would have been a huge pain to make look nice (and to work around). I had planned on adding real led's to it, or just leaving it as is.

That paint marking method works nicely, eh?

Can't wait to see it all finished up.

One last thing, how does the aluminum bright coat compare to the RnB? I have had RnB'd helmets before, but not one on hand to compare. Going by memory, I thought they looked pretty darn close. Yes, no?

I sanded the cast leds off on purpose... They were 'bubbly' and would have been a huge pain to make look nice (and to work around). I had planned on adding real led's to it, or just leaving it as is.

That paint marking method works nicely, eh?

Can't wait to see it all finished up.

One last thing, how does the aluminum bright coat compare to the RnB? I have had RnB'd helmets before, but not one on hand to compare. Going by memory, I thought they looked pretty darn close. Yes, no?

-Shawn

Yikes, well I wished you had left it as it lol, cause Im not too sure about the LED's. As far as the paint comparison, they look closely similar, at least from a distance. But it all depends on the light. In the end, the R&B ends up being shinier then the spray you used.

Anyways, I was hoping to have finished off the earcaps last night. I had painted over the magnets and all to make it 'cleaner' looking. I decided to try and use this epoxy to attached the cap to the helmet. As you know, these adhesives are very slippery when first applied, and WILL slide out of place. I had positioned it on the helmet and layed it on it's side, and let it sit there over night, however, despite my best efforts at keeping it still, i woke up to find that it slide over to the right about a quarter of an inch.

Its actually fortunate that I had used epoxy, becauase as much as I had freaked about this, I stuck a dinner knife between the helmet and the cap, and it just popped right off, not too much pressure either. No paint or any marks other then where the epoxy was, even then, those flaked off as well. So I bought some Goop today, and this is the same stuff I used for my helmet's earcaps and its strong.

Other then that, as far as the magnet mod, its all finished and works perfectly.

Alright, well despite that error, it is now gooped on the helmet and is sitting where it needs to right now. What I did this time, what I really should have done, just never thought of it before, was to just put tape over it after its placed, and position it if need be.

Here's some pics of how it is now. Im going to put the RF stalk's bolt's hole in tomorrow.

There are small gaps between the helmet and the caps, but, with the paint im goin to weather it with, it will cover them up.

Thats true, its just some people put them in there because it resembles the 'bumps' in a cleaner way, or I think galacticbountyhunter put some working LED's into his. I cant remember off the top of my head, but when they show jango flying towards obiwan, he flips down the RF and I think for like a split second, they do show lights? I may be totoally wrong, but I know that the actual physical prop does not have LED's

Alright, well major progress today. I managed to finish everything but the painting of it all. I went ahead and tried the LED thing. Turns out I wasnt too hard. I just took measurements from my BKBT RF box, and re-drew out the lines onto the RF. I think the hardest part of it all is just trying to make sure the two holes are aligned perfectly, which I managed to do!

I just bought two red-LED's and put them onto the vice, took a dremel, and cut off the tail end of it, where it usually has the extended lip. I drilled the holes, droped the LED tops in, tested the height, and adjusted the hole's depth. I then use the two-part epoxy to hold them in. An thats about it. I attached it to the RF stalk and I feel this really turned out very well, better then mine to be honest...

Well, I could have been done...about yesterday with the painting, but I swear, Ive been having some bad luck trying to paint the thing. I seriously rank the rustolium royal blue as #2 of some of the most difficult paints that I have ever worked with, right behind rubb and Buff. The worst part of it is when the paint does not come out of the can properly and 'puddles' onto what your painting. Then you have to wait like a day or two before you can even start to sand it. Thats the worst! The paint does not like to sand off at all! Its like a thick wax layer. Bah!

*end rant*

Anyways, I have to get a new can, cause the one i have now decided it does not want to spray anymore, depite how clean the nozzle is or how pressurized it is...

That's a Picture of me and my wife sanding the paint off the helmet...I had the same issue with the royal blue. It took three hours to sand all the paint off or sand it down to a point where it was ready for paint again.

I painted in a Auto Body Shop (Call Cruiser's ...seriously) In one of those paint rooms, and even had to heat up to 130 degrees with the shop owner helping. It still came on two thick...it was too wet.

That was my second can too, because I had the same problem with the first can. It gunked up the nozzles (I replace the nozzle and everything...)

At least Im not the only one who's had this issue. I find that it worked much better in cold weather for me for some reason. I could spray it in the morning and be able to handle it without ruinning the paint job. Just sucks for me...

Alright, well, Im on the home stretch right now for finishing the helmet. I got the new can yesterday, and was able to finish painting and clear coating this morning. So the basic painting requirments are done. Here it is right now. The only thing left that I need to do, is just add a bit of weathering to the earcaps.

I actually need a little bit of suggestions/tips for weathering, because Ive never done it before. Maybe some reference pics as well? Thanks!