This Week in Good Chains

The Orange County Register's "Best of Orange County" issue arrived last Friday, and it's no surprise the restaurant section reads like a blowjob for everything corporate rather than an actual survey of the county's fine eateries. Really, Reg—Pizza Hut as the best pizza in the county?! How bad are those knees hurting for those Sunday glossy ads?! That said, not all chains are Wal-Mart evil. Consider the following list: all delicious, all chains, and almost all Orange County-born and –run.

Liquid refreshment makes up most of the extensive menu, and the high point may be the lilac-hued, creamy taro-milk tea. Even the food features notes of tea. The subtle tea-flavored minced pork and the tender, stew-like, tea-flavored beef are served with rice and vegetables. 4187 Campus Dr., Ste. M-173, Irvine, (949) 725-0300; 5720 E. Seventh St., Long Beach, (562) 668-5100. $

Chris & Pitts

Low prices and macro-brew vibe bring the teeming masses, who scarf on outrageously meaty beef and pork short ribs slathered in industrial-strength barbecue sauce. If you notice how much Chris & Pitts is like the Claim Jumper, don't be surprised—Mr. Jumper got the idea for his chain while growing up and eating here. 601 N. Euclid St., Anaheim, (714) 635-2601; 15975 Harbor Blvd., Fountain Valley, (714) 775-7311. $

Claro's Italian Market

Claro's is a third-generation family business with a passion for food as big as the 600-pound loaves of provolone they are known to display during winter. Besides a huge selection of imported groceries, Claro's houses a stellar deli and bakery. 101 W. Whittier Blvd., La Habra, (562) 690-2844; 1095 E. Main St., Tustin, (714) 832-3081. $

The Crab Cooker

This is an institution you can take your out-of-town relatives to sample moderately priced seafood cooked on skewers in cramped booths next to goofy fishing-themed artwork. But first you have to stand outside and wait for your table because this is a first-come, first-served place. 2200 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach, (949) 673-0100; 17260 E. 17th St., Tustin, (714) 573-1077. $

DAILY GRILL

This is where you can learn to love the Cobb salad, an orchestrated event of chicken, tomatoes, avocado, bacon, blue cheese, scallions, egg, and romaine and iceberg lettuce mixed in a creamy Italian dressing. Also features American comfort food—don't miss the meatloaf—prepared at its highest level. 2636 Dupont Dr., Irvine, (949) 474-2223; 957 Newport Center Dr., Newport Beach, (949) 644-2223. $$

EL CARBONERO

Owner María de Jesús Ramírez ensures that El Carboneros Nos. 1 and 2 use the same recipes of her hearty native cuisine, the primary reason why the county's pioneering guanaco restaurant persists while so many other Salvadoran restaurants disappear. Imitate the regulars and order at least one pupusa, the masa griddle cake that Salvadorans consume from crib to crypt. And El Carbonero's horchata, heavy with cinnamon and toasted rice, makes Mexican horchata taste like a Tijuana gutter. 9304 Katella Ave., Anaheim, (714) 527-4542; 803 S. Main St., Santa Ana, (714) 542-6653. $

GYPSY DEN

Hipster Orange County's favorite place to ogle progressive waitresses. The menu is filled with an eclectic collection of healthy post-hippie sandwiches, and the décor of both locations is almost identical, from the earthy walls to the funky art. 2930 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 549-7012; 125 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, (714) 835-8840. $

JUGOS ACAPULCO Jugos Acapulco makes tacos, tortas, even enchiladas. But the jugos and licuados here are so filling and nourishing that to order an actual entrée would be pure gluttony. The 19 different jugos span every one of nature's candies, from such standards as horchata, tamarind and grapefruit to more obscure choices (pulpy guanávana, sour alfalfa and beet juice). The beet jugo is exceedingly bitter and burgundy, but it mysteriously ranks as one of Jugos Acapulco's top sellers—Latinos disregard the root's acrid taste for its iron-packed wallop, apparently. 745 W. 19th St., Ste. A-B, Costa Mesa, (949) 722-8513; 307 E. First St., Santa Ana, (714) 836-1965; 2003 W. First St., Ste. A, Santa Ana, (714) 558-1414.$ KNOWLWOOD

Based out of San Jose, the shop specializes in bánh mì, the Vietnamese sandwich that is an appetizing post-colonial amalgamation. Though the always-endless lines seem imposing, the service at Lee's is so outstanding you'll quickly be savoring the most outlandish deal ($1.50 for a huge, 10-inch, delicious sandwich) in the world. 1028 S. Harbor Blvd., Fullerton, (714) 525-2989; 13991 Brookhurst, Garden Grove, (714) 636-2288; 9261 Bolsa Ave., Westminster, (714) 901-5788. Friggin' ¢

MARRI'S PIZZA

Sam Madain's family owns the 50-year-old Long Beach restaurant and another of the same name that's been on Katella Avenue in Anaheim for about 20 years. The garlic bread are French rolls baked on the premises topped with a spread made of fresh garlic and spices. Whip me 40 times with a wet linguine for any previous snobbery. 1194 W. Katella Ave., Anaheim, (714) 533-1631; 6436 E. Stearns St., Long Beach, (562) 596-5771. $$