Can anyone recommend some good on-line tutorials or books for coloring in artwork with Photoshop? I'm currently using PS7 but I'm upgrading to CS2 in about three weeks.
I would rate my skills at slightly experienced enthusiastic amateur who has used PS exclusively for photography but now want to expand my skills.
And... I ramble way too much, don't I? And... if this is an inappropriate place to post this question, I do apologize.

Avoid gradients like the plague.
Color on a layer set to multiply.
Linework should be BLACK, no grays at all.
Work at at least 300 dpi.
Use Photoshop's Save For Web feature.
No Anti-Aliasing on your selection tools.
Use the pencil tool to color.

Dean: is there any difference between using Save for Web and just working in RGB mode and reducing to 72 dpi before saving?

EXCELLENT QUESTION. Why yes there is. Save for web gives you considerably more options for file format, number of colors, image quality, etc. Often a png or gif with less than 32 colors is all you need for a black/white image, and that can lower the file size a bit. I use it for EVERY image I post online._________________Dean Trippe | Project Rooftop

There is no hard and fast rule for colouring in Photoshop. A million people can tell you a million different ways to do it, none of them will be right, none of them will be wrong. Learn as many ways as you can and adopt that techniques that work for you and cast aside those that don't.

In that spirit:

Gradients can be used sparingly if used properly. Usually in the backgrounds and what not. You've got to be damn good to use it in the characters themselves.

If printing CMYK use a boosted black (C:50% M:50% Y:50% K:100%)

Never print RGB and never make a web comic CMYK.

While setting layers to mutiply has it's merits, I prefer the control of choosing my colours manually. Study colour theory before you do that though.

Shadow don't have to be black or grey. Try an overlay of blue or purple.

Colour flats: Filling a character or section with any ol' colour then magic wand that section to constrain your colouring. It is a very handy technique.

Learn what the 'contiguous' check box does with the magic wand and the paint bucket.

Photoshop's type tool is not the best way to go. Turn to PS's heterosexual life mate Illustrator for all your lettering needs.

Speaking of fonts: Comic Sans is not in any way a font you should EVER consider using. It sucks that much._________________I think we all know the words!

any fonts you would recommend? I've found a few I like, none comic sans, though I do use that one on my blog but not for images.
I seem to be picking up that the main thing is practise, practise, practise, and patience. Does that sound right?
Lot's of good ideas to work with so far. Keep them coming. This is great.

Like Matthew said, Blambot is the best since they've got some really nice free ones. If you're technically minded and have access to Fontlab or Fontographer you could always make your own too._________________I think we all know the words!

Dean and Scott,
excellent advice both of you. You gave me some great info to work with. I also figured out a couple of things on my own, things that are probably soooo obvious to every one else.
Make sure the drawing is clean and exactly as you want it before you scan it in.
I also found that by adjusting the transparency on the layer I am working with I can see the original shading from the drawing I made on the layer below it which helps me place the shading in photoshop.
And, I can't say this enough...to myself..because I'm so impatient, go slow!!! and work in lots and lots of layers. and label them. Lable those damn layers!

This is basically true, but oddly enough printing at Kinko's is a little different. They use a gigantic computer called a Colorpass which converts your RGB into CMYK. So if you give them a CMYK file you may run into color issues. Actually you will almost definitely run into issues either way, but somehow RGB colors print better there (which goes against all logic)._________________Hey, I draw sometimes!

This is basically true, but oddly enough printing at Kinko's is a little different. They use a gigantic computer called a Colorpass which converts your RGB into CMYK. So if you give them a CMYK file you may run into color issues. Actually you will almost definitely run into issues either way, but somehow RGB colors print better there (which goes against all logic).

Colorpass is a RIP (Raster Image Processor) program. I have heard rumours that in certain circumstances you can get better colour by sending RGB which the RIP transforms into CMYK and by some sort of alchemy gives you better colour but damned if I know how that works.

Looks like I need to do a little research._________________I think we all know the words!