Grace and Yarn

Meet Amy the Amigurumi Doll! She was inspired by a bunny I loved on my daughter's shirt.

The skirt shirt combo caught my eye and every time I saw it I wanted to try and crochet it as a doll! My daughter was thrilled their outfits matched as well!

She measures about 14 inches from head to toe and is a great pattern for beginners! The legs and body are made as one piece making the pattern work up quickly!

This pattern was originally released as a CAL (crochet-a-long) that has now ended, but it will remain a free pattern here on the blog which is why I have combined all parts of the pattern into one below!

Be sure to join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook so you can share your WIP as you go and ask any questions you have along the way!

I have used plastic safety eyes in this pattern but if you would prefer an alternative I have a tutorial for crochet eyes here!

The pattern will be worked in the round and I highly recommend using stitch markers if you don't already. This is one material you don't necessarily have to purchase. A piece of scrap yarn, safety pin or bobby pin will work just fine!

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Round 31: Chain 4 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 4 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and across each of the 4 chains (you will have SC on both sides of the chain 4 now) (40 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start.

*Quick note- This can be the trickiest part if you haven't made a project with this technique. The chains are like a bridge connecting the legs together and we want to crochet around the entire piece to make it one. *

Rounds 32-36: SC around (40) Change to skirt color

Round 37: SC around (40)

Round 38: SC around in the blo (40)

Round 39: SC around (40) Change to shirt color

Rounds 40-48: SC around (40)

Round 49: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rpt around (32)

Round 50: SC around (32)

Round 51: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC, rpt around (24)

Change to skin color

Rounds 52-53: SC around (24)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Skirt –

With color of choice

(Note: The skirt is not worked in continuous rounds, you will be joining each round at the end)

To work the skirt, have your doll’s body towards you and feet away from you (see pictures below for example) and we’ll work around:

Create a slip knot and attach with a slip stitch to one of the front loops from round 38 (For a cleaner look attach at the back of the body)

Round 1: Ch 1, DC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (40)

Round 2: Ch 1, *DC in the same stich, DC INC in the next*, *repeat around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (60)

Rounds 3-7: Ch 1, DC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (60)

Fasten off and weave in ends

Head-

With skin color

*Note: Cut a strand of yarn about 10 inches long, this will be used for the nose halfway through*

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rpt around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (36)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (42)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (48)

Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (54)

A lot of you have been sharing that you think of Christmas projects around this time of year. We've wrapped up Christmas in July and I went searching for some more fun and free patterns to gather up for you!

Whether you are looking for amigurumi, pillows or ornaments you are sure to be inspired!

Most of the patterns below are amigurumi, if you are new to this style of crochet you can visit my Tips to Learning Amigurumi page, it will walk you through the basics with helpful photos along the way!

Welcome to the last pattern in our Christmas in July series! So far we have had a Reindeer, Penguin, Polar Bear and now this super cute Gingerbread couple!I did a lot of boy and girl versions in my forest animal series and that's exactly what I wanted to do with these two as well. Below is the free pattern for Ginger the Gingerbread Girl, head over here if you would like the pattern for Snap the Gingerbread Boy!

A lot of you shared some cute edgings you added to the skirt on the Amy Doll and it inspired me to add a decorative edge in this pattern. The scallops remind me of frosting and seemed quite fitting!

If you are new to crocheting stuffed animals, head over to my Tips to Learning Amigurumi page to get started. I go over a lot of the common techniques you'll see in the pattern, plus photos to help you through it!

Be sure to also join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook so you can share your work and ask any questions you have along the way!If you plan to make this for a little one under 3 I recommend these crochet eyes as an alternative to the plastic safety eyes!

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

(Check out my post here to learn why these are my favorite materials to work with!)

Abbreviations: US terminology

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

BLO – Back loop only

HDC – Half double crochet

DC – Double crochet

This pattern measures about 13 inches tall

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

Legs and Body-

Legs: Make 2 - Using light brown

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (30 SC)

Rounds 6-8: SC around (30 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 10: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC) Change to white (Optional: Carry the light brown to avoid tying off)

Rounds 11-12: SC around (18 SC) Change to light brown

Rounds 13-24: SC around (18 SC)

Fasten off (when you finish the 2nd leg do not fasten off, proceed to round 25)

*Round 25 joins the legs together and starts the body

Round 25: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains (42 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start.

Rounds 26-28: SC around (42 SC) Change to dress color

Round 29: SC around (42 SC)

Round 30: SC in BLO (42 SC)

Rounds 31-41: SC around (42 SC)

Round 42: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (36 SC)

Round 43: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (30 SC)

Round 44: SC around (30 SC)

Change to light brown

Round 45: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (24 SC)

Rounds 46-47: SC around (24 SC)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Dress-

To work the dress, have the body towards you and feet away from you (see pictures below for example) and we’ll work around:

With dress color create a slip knot and attach with a slip stitch to one of the front loops from round 30 (For a cleaner look attach at the back of the body)

Round 1: Ch 1, DC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (42 DC)

Welcome to the last pattern in our Christmas in July series! So far we have had a Reindeer, Penguin, Polar Bear and now this super cute Gingerbread couple!I did a lot of boy and girl versions in my forest animal series and that's exactly what I wanted to do with these two as well. Below is the free pattern for Snap the Gingerbread Boy, head over here if you would like the pattern for Ginger the Gingerbread Girl!

A lot of you shared some cute edgings you added to the skirt on the Amy Doll and it inspired me to add a decorative edge in this pattern. The scallops remind me of frosting and seemed quite fitting!

If you are new to crocheting stuffed animals, head over to my Tips to Learning Amigurumi page to get started. I go over a lot of the common techniques you'll see in the pattern, plus photos to help you through it!

Be sure to also join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook so you can share your work and ask any questions you have along the way!If you plan to make this for a little one under 3 I recommend these crochet eyes as an alternative to the plastic safety eyes!

Pattern

- Get an ad-free printable version from my Etsy or Ravelry shop(If you would like both the girl and boy version you can purchase the combo pack at a discount here!)

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

(Check out my post here to learn why these are my favorite materials to work with!)

Abbreviations: US terminology

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC – Half double crochet

DC – Double crochet

This pattern measures about 13 inches tall

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

Legs and Body-

Legs: Make 2 - Using light brown

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (30 SC)

Rounds 6-8: SC around (30 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 10: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC) Change to white (Optional: Carry the light brown to avoid tying off)

Rounds 11-12: SC around (18 SC) Change to light brown

Rounds 13-18: SC around (18 SC) Change to suspender color

Rounds 19-24: SC around (18 SC)

Fasten off (when you finish the 2nd leg do not fasten off, proceed to round 25)

*Round 25 joins the legs together and starts the body

Round 25: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains (42 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start.

Rounds 26-32: SC around (42 SC) Change to light brown

Rounds 33-41: SC around (42 SC)

Round 42: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (36 SC)

Round 43: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (30 SC)

Round 44: SC around (30 SC)

Round 45: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (24 SC)

Rounds 46-47: SC around (24 SC)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Suspenders –

Make two in color of choice

Chain 40, HDC in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each chain across (39 HDC)

Cheeks –

With red make 2

Create a magic circle with 6 HDC, join to the first HDC and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Head-

With light brown

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54 SC)

Rounds 10-18: SC around (54 SC)

Note: Here is where we will add the facial feature before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 15 and 16, 7 stitches apart.

Using crochet thread or yarn embroider a smile by making a ‘U’ or ‘V’, I placed mine centered between the eyes 4 rows down. Lastly, sew the cheeks between rounds 11 and 13 just outside of the eyes.

I can't believe we are already more than halfway through July which means we are at pattern #3 in our Christmas in July series.I'm excited to introduce you to Patrick the Polar Bear! He is similar in size to Ray the Reindeer, about 13 inches tall and would make a great Christmas gift!

If you are new to amigurumi be sure to check out my tips page to help you get started!Patrick's pattern calls for size 12mm plastic safety eyes, but if you plan to make this for an infant feel free to check out my tutorial for crochet thread eyes as an alternative!The legs and body are made as one to save a little time on sewing. The ears are also doubled up for added strength to avoid floppiness! Add eyelashes or a bow to make a girl version!

Pattern

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Abbreviations: US terminology

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

Legs and Body-

Legs: Make 2 - Using white

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (30 SC)

Rounds 6-8: SC around (30 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 10: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Rounds 11-23: SC around (18 SC)

Fasten off (when you finish the 2nd leg do not fasten off, proceed to round 24)

*Round 24 joins the legs together and starts the body

Round 24: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains (42 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start. (Example below of a leg join)

Rounds 25-29: SC around (42 SC) Change to sweater color

Rounds 30-43: SC around (42 SC)

Round 44: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (36 SC)

Round 45: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (30 SC)

Round 46: SC around (30 SC)

Change to white

Round 47: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (24 SC)

Rounds 48-49: SC around (24 SC)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Head-

With white

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54 SC)

Rounds 10-18: SC around (54 SC)

Note: Here is where we will add the eyes before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 15 and 16, 6 stitches apart.

Round 19: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48 SC)

Round 20: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 21: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Round 22: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Round 23: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC) *Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 24: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Round 25: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12 SC)

Welcome to the 2nd pattern in the Christmas in July series! If you missed Ray the Reindeer (our first pattern) you can still find his pattern here!I'm excited to introduce you to Penn the Penguin! He is the perfect gift or stocking stuffer measuring in at 7 inches tall.

This pattern is also great for beginners and only uses a few stitches. To make this pattern you will want to be familiar with a magic circle, invisible decrease, and sewing on parts.If you are new to amigurumi be sure to check out my tips page to help you get started! I go over each topic above in mini photo tutorials.

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Meet Ray the Reindeer! He loves the cold winter snow and eating leaves with good friends!

Growing up I was always fond of reindeer at Christmastime and it was the first animal to come to mind when brainstorming.

This is the first of four patterns that I'll be sharing on the blog for my Christmas in July series! You can find # 2 here!I try to make each pattern as easy to read as possible and loaded with photos to help along the way, making them great for beginners! To make this pattern you will want to be familiar with a magic circle, invisible decrease, and sewing on parts.If you are new to amigurumi be sure to check out my tips and materials page to help you get started! I go over each topic above in mini photo tutorials.

In most of my patterns (like this one) I use plastic safety eyes, they are easy and fast to install. However, they are not recommended for children under 3.

If you are making this for a little one or don't have the size needed on hand, I recommend using my crochet thread eyes as an alternative!

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Abbreviations: US terminology

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.Let's start crocheting!

Legs and Body-

Legs: Make 2 - Using light brown

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (30 SC)

Rounds 6-8: SC around (30 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 10: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Rounds 11-24: SC around (18 SC)

Fasten off (when you finish the 2nd leg do not fasten off, proceed to round 25)

*Round 25 joins the legs together and starts the body

Round 25: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains (42 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start.

Rounds 26-41: SC around (42 SC)

Round 42: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (36 SC)

Round 43: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (30 SC)

Round 44: SC around (30 SC)

Round 45: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (24 SC)

Rounds 46-47: SC around (24 SC)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Head-

Note- We will be making the head from the top down, you’re beginning rounds will be the top of the head.

With light brown

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54 SC)

Rounds 10-18: SC around (54 SC)

Note: Here is where we will add the eyes before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 15 and 16, 8 stitches apart. Optional: Feel free to add eyelashes before securing your eyes, remember that we are working from the top of the head down so your eyelashes may seem upside down until we close the head.

Round 19: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48 SC)

Round 20: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 21: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Round 22: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Round 23: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC) *Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 24: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Round 25: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12 SC)