Kauai's must-see treasures and hidden attractions

You don't have to be rich to enjoy the island's wonders

Updated 8:09 am, Thursday, December 1, 2016

Kauai's rugged cliffs and lush forests beckon to visitors approaching by air. The island is so beautiful, it's not surprising that it was chosen as the setting for many Hollywood films.

Kauai's rugged cliffs and lush forests beckon to visitors approaching by air. The island is so beautiful, it's not surprising that it was chosen as the setting for many Hollywood films.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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The best way to see Kauai's legendary Na Pali Coast is by helicopter, but if you can't afford spending hundreds of dollars per hour, you can still can still find great views of the coast along the Kalalau Trail, probably the island's most famous hike. less

The best way to see Kauai's legendary Na Pali Coast is by helicopter, but if you can't afford spending hundreds of dollars per hour, you can still can still find great views of the coast along the Kalalau ... more

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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There are plenty of prime places along the Kalalau Trail for a selfie of you and a dozen or so of your best friends.

There are plenty of prime places along the Kalalau Trail for a selfie of you and a dozen or so of your best friends.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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This doesn't do justice to how steep and slippery the Kalalau Trail can get. Trekking poles are recommended. Expect mud to cover your legs from your knees on down.

This doesn't do justice to how steep and slippery the Kalalau Trail can get. Trekking poles are recommended. Expect mud to cover your legs from your knees on down.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Most of the people hiking the Kalalau Trail stop at Hanakapi'ai Beach, which has become a destination for cairn builders. Some hikers like to wash off the mud with a swim. Hanakapi'ai Falls is a sloppy two-mile side trip from the beach. less

Most of the people hiking the Kalalau Trail stop at Hanakapi'ai Beach, which has become a destination for cairn builders. Some hikers like to wash off the mud with a swim. Hanakapi'ai Falls is a sloppy two-mile ... more

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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A feral rooster searches for food at Ke'e Beach, near the trailhead of the Kalalau Trail. These squawking birds, the ultimate in free-range chickens, can be found almost everywhere in Kauai.

A feral rooster searches for food at Ke'e Beach, near the trailhead of the Kalalau Trail. These squawking birds, the ultimate in free-range chickens, can be found almost everywhere in Kauai.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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For a short stop on the North Shore, the Kilauea Lighthouse offers a postcard-worthy photo op. A $5 admission fee allows you access to the bluff but you can't go inside the lighthouse.

For a short stop on the North Shore, the Kilauea Lighthouse offers a postcard-worthy photo op. A $5 admission fee allows you access to the bluff but you can't go inside the lighthouse.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Beware of the giant nene geese just outside the lighthouse grounds.

Beware of the giant nene geese just outside the lighthouse grounds.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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At the end of Waimea Canyon Road is the the Pu'u o Kila Lookout, billed as one of the greatest views in the Pacific. When we arrived, we were treated to rain and this view.

At the end of Waimea Canyon Road is the the Pu'u o Kila Lookout, billed as one of the greatest views in the Pacific. When we arrived, we were treated to rain and this view.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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A short stroll from the lookout is the Pihea Trail. The weather lived up to the sign.

A short stroll from the lookout is the Pihea Trail. The weather lived up to the sign.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Despite the cloud cover ruining the view, this couple thought it was selfie-worthy. If they had just waited a few minutes ...

Despite the cloud cover ruining the view, this couple thought it was selfie-worthy. If they had just waited a few minutes ...

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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... The clouds bega to clear, and the photographers moved to the edge ...

... The clouds bega to clear, and the photographers moved to the edge ...

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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... Suddenly the skies cleared, revealing the Na Pali Coast's Kalalau Valley in all its glory.

... Suddenly the skies cleared, revealing the Na Pali Coast's Kalalau Valley in all its glory.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Enjoy the view of the Kalalau Valley while it lasts, which often is not long. It took only about 20 minutes for the clouds to creep back. In an hour, it was fog-socked again. Incidentally, you can't hike into the valley from the Pihea Trail. Supposedly there used to be a trail down from a ridge called kapea, Hawaiian for "scrotum," so named for the constricting effect caused by hiking down the extremely steep path. less

Enjoy the view of the Kalalau Valley while it lasts, which often is not long. It took only about 20 minutes for the clouds to creep back. In an hour, it was fog-socked again. Incidentally, you can't hike into ... more

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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The Pihea Trail leads into a fern and ohi'a forest. Like many of the trails on Kauia, it's extremely moist in spots.

The Pihea Trail leads into a fern and ohi'a forest. Like many of the trails on Kauia, it's extremely moist in spots.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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One of the best South Shore hikes runs from Shipwreck Beach to the Maha'ulepu beaches.

One of the best South Shore hikes runs from Shipwreck Beach to the Maha'ulepu beaches.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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The coastline along Mah'ulepu is marked by clusters of lithified sand dunes. The jagged sandstone rocks and cliffs give the terrain an unearthly appearance.

The coastline along Mah'ulepu is marked by clusters of lithified sand dunes. The jagged sandstone rocks and cliffs give the terrain an unearthly appearance.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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When you're done hiking Maha'ulepu, take a swim at Shipwreck Beach, a popular spot for boogie boarding and body surfing.

When you're done hiking Maha'ulepu, take a swim at Shipwreck Beach, a popular spot for boogie boarding and body surfing.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Right off Shipwreck Beach is Makawehi Point, from which brave and foolhardy youths plunge into the surf.

Right off Shipwreck Beach is Makawehi Point, from which brave and foolhardy youths plunge into the surf.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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No trip to Kauai is complete without a trip to Waimea Canyon, the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific."

No trip to Kauai is complete without a trip to Waimea Canyon, the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific."

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Rainbows make regular appearances at Waimea Canyon.

Rainbows make regular appearances at Waimea Canyon.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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To the prove their love, couples hang locks on the fence of the Waimea Canyon overlook as if it were a Paris bridge.

To the prove their love, couples hang locks on the fence of the Waimea Canyon overlook as if it were a Paris bridge.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Over centuries, the Waimea River (meaning red water) carved Waimea Canyon. Legend has it that it was named after a chief's daughter who bled into the river after she was slain by a jilted suitor at a waterfall. A more boring explanation is the reddish sediment that it picks up as it flows. less

Over centuries, the Waimea River (meaning red water) carved Waimea Canyon. Legend has it that it was named after a chief's daughter who bled into the river after she was slain by a jilted suitor at a waterfall. ... more

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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This view of a bluff towering over the Waimea River was taken from a non-hyped overlook near Lihue.

This view of a bluff towering over the Waimea River was taken from a non-hyped overlook near Lihue.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Want a beach where kids can play as gentle waves break over a ridge of rock? Salt Pond Beach Park fits the bill. It's a popular spot for weekend family picnics.

Want a beach where kids can play as gentle waves break over a ridge of rock? Salt Pond Beach Park fits the bill. It's a popular spot for weekend family picnics.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Some of the tattoos on Salt Pond Beach are as colorful as the beach towels.

Some of the tattoos on Salt Pond Beach are as colorful as the beach towels.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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One benefit of all the rain on Kauai is that it makes it easier to see the spider webs before you walk into them.

One benefit of all the rain on Kauai is that it makes it easier to see the spider webs before you walk into them.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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No trip to Kauai would be complete without a trip to Jo-Jo's Clubhouse for shave ice, the best on the island.

No trip to Kauai would be complete without a trip to Jo-Jo's Clubhouse for shave ice, the best on the island.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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An overflowing cup of mango-papaya at Jo-Jo's runs about $7, totally worth it.

An overflowing cup of mango-papaya at Jo-Jo's runs about $7, totally worth it.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Surrounded by fuel tanks in an industrial section of 'Ele'ele (Hanapepe) on the West Shore, Glass Beach isn't much to look at. But years of waves pounding on broken glass from an adjacent military dump has created multicolored glass pebbles and marble-like balls that mix with the sand. The amount of glass varies with the tides and surf. less

Surrounded by fuel tanks in an industrial section of 'Ele'ele (Hanapepe) on the West Shore, Glass Beach isn't much to look at. But years of waves pounding on broken glass from an adjacent military dump has ... more

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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The Pacific has sanded these pieces of broken glass into smooth, colorful baubles.

The Pacific has sanded these pieces of broken glass into smooth, colorful baubles.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Off the beaten path of the usual tourist destinations is this decaying cemetery of Japanese sugar plantation laborers.

Off the beaten path of the usual tourist destinations is this decaying cemetery of Japanese sugar plantation laborers.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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The cemetery is a short walk from Glass Beach on the South Shore.

The cemetery is a short walk from Glass Beach on the South Shore.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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A short walk from Glass Beach brings you to the Melted Metal, a landscape of junked cars that over many decades have been reclaimed by the sea. The dumped engine blocks and chassis have been slowly dissolving to the point where their parts are nearly unrecognizable. It's not your typical Kauai beach experience, but it's certainly fascinating. less

A short walk from Glass Beach brings you to the Melted Metal, a landscape of junked cars that over many decades have been reclaimed by the sea. The dumped engine blocks and chassis have been slowly dissolving ... more

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Even Click and Clack can't save this engine.

Even Click and Clack can't save this engine.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Heading east from the Melted Metal lies a rugged volcanic flow that has been eroded by the sea. Before too long you'll come across this lava bridge.

Heading east from the Melted Metal lies a rugged volcanic flow that has been eroded by the sea. Before too long you'll come across this lava bridge.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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This dad brought his daughter a long while he flew his drone over the choppy lava field that is full of blowholes, nooks and crannies.

This dad brought his daughter a long while he flew his drone over the choppy lava field that is full of blowholes, nooks and crannies.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Speaking of blowholes, the Spouting Horn on the South Shore is worth a mention. The blowhole makes a guttural moan before it erupts. Tourist buses stop here, so you likely won't be alone to watch it. There are fences to keep people from wandering down to the hole, but it's not clear if that is prohibited or simply not recommended. Supposedly, some years ago, a pair of San Francisco visitors got too close and were knocked down by a large wave and then sucked into the hole. Instead of being crushed to death, they were blown out to sea and then rescued. less

Speaking of blowholes, the Spouting Horn on the South Shore is worth a mention. The blowhole makes a guttural moan before it erupts. Tourist buses stop here, so you likely won't be alone to watch it. There are ... more

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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One of the lasting impressions of Kauai is the brilliant emerald hues that seem to be everywhere — for example, on a hillside skirting an otherwise unremarkable stretch of country road.

One of the lasting impressions of Kauai is the brilliant emerald hues that seem to be everywhere — for example, on a hillside skirting an otherwise unremarkable stretch of country road.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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If calm, Caribbean-style beaches are your preference, check out 'Anini Beach on the North Shore. We found several beginning paddle boarders there taking advantage of the nearly wave-free surf. Some of the richest residents on the island have homes near 'Anini. less

If calm, Caribbean-style beaches are your preference, check out 'Anini Beach on the North Shore. We found several beginning paddle boarders there taking advantage of the nearly wave-free surf. Some of the ... more

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Cattle feed on grass outside Lihue as the sun sets on Kauai.

Cattle feed on grass outside Lihue as the sun sets on Kauai.

Photo: Mike Moffitt/SFGATE

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Kauai's must-see treasures and hidden attractions

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We knew the Kalalau Trail, the classic hike on Kauai's Na Pali Coast, could be treacherous. After all, the wettest place on on Earth is on Kauai. Add water and the Kalalau becomes the world's longest Slip 'N' Slide.

So we prepared accordingly. Trail runners with good tread for me. Hiking boots with good tread for her. Trekking poles for both of us.

Mud and gravity, do your worst. We were ready.

Although we got up early, the AV club beat us to the trailhead. A group of frat bros apparently planning to make a movie were gearing up with professional video cameras, stabilizer rigs and extra-long selfie sticks. Some packed Bluetooth speakers on their backs so they could share their taste in music with the world as they hiked.

Thankfully, Katy Perry and Dr. Dre kept the volume down as we climbed up.

That's the thing about Kauai. It's such a beautiful place that it's hard not to be in a good mood, even in the rain and ankle-deep mud. And happy travelers are usually respectful of others.

Kauai offers visitors an assortment of wonders to put a smile on your face. The guidebooks say there is no place on Earth like it, and that's no exaggeration.

But it's not cheap. You can spend several hundreds of dollars a night at many of the better resorts. The fancier restaurants rival San Francisco's in prices, but often not in quality.

If you want to take a helicopter tour of the island — billed as the best way to see the Na Pali Coast — expect to shell out $200 per hour and up. But there are dozens of places you can go for free where you can have Kauai almost to yourself.

For example, everyone visits the spectacular Waimea Canyon overlook, but relatively few hike the spur trails off the canyon.

Or Glass Beach in Hanapepe Bay. Probably because of its industrial surroundings, the beach was deserted before a couple of trinket hunters showed up.

There were a few people relaxing on sprawling Kekaha Beach on the western shore, but they were spread out by hundreds of yards. You could yell out to your nearest neighbors down the beach, and they wouldn't hear you.

I body-surfed alone in the warm water until a gang of teenage boogie boarders, fresh from school, arrived by pickup truck. They tumbled out and bolted to the surf to join the haole (white guy tourist) bobbing in the waves.

For lodging, we went the Home Away/ VRBO route and reserved rooms with kitchenettes or kitchen privileges at homes in Princeville in the north and Kalaheo in the southwest. Cooking meals instead of eating out every night is a good way to cut back on expenses.

On the other hand, don't expect many bargains at supermarkets. Like all of Hawaii, Kauai imports much of its food, which of course drives up prices. I grudgingly paid $7 for a 12-ounce jar of peanut butter.

No wonder one of my SFGate colleagues, who often vacations in Kauai, always makes the Costco in Lihue his first stop after landing in Kauai.

"Definitely bring your costco membership when you go to Kauai and are staying at a place with cooking facilities."

Not that you'll want to cook everything you eat, of course. You'd miss out treats like JoJo's in Waimea, which serves the best shave ice on the island.

While our first Home Away rental, in Princeville, was a unit adjacent to the host's quarters, our second stay was a room in a single-family home. We shared the kitchen with our host, a friendly, 60-something woman with her own landscaping business and lots of stories to share.

Two days before we were to leave the island, she told us that she had to leave the next morning for a two-week trip to Australia.

We assumed she wanted us to at least lock up and hide the key under one of her many planters, but she told us not to bother. A friend would stop over in a few days to check the place.

So she left her home in the hands of strangers, who in turn left it unlocked, while she went on vacation for two weeks on a continent 5,500 miles away.

No worries. That's Kauai for you.

For a tour of Hawaii's emerald isle, including some-off-the-beaten-path attractions, click on the above slideshow.

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