I know I am a Muppet, but yet another fault has appeared on my newly bought Rover 75 one of the front to rear brake pipe failed, nearly killed me. I had noticed they were smothered in grease when I was servicing the car but thought good that will keep them OK. This is a car with F/S/H but they were rotten in loads of places and I do mean rotten one failed pulling up to traffic lights lucky I had just done the hand brake!!!. And the other fell to pieces as I tried to unclip it from the car

No 1 Do you have to take the tank off to replace the front to rear passenger side brake pipe, or do you normally just thread it through and over the petrol tank and fasten it where you can

No 2 I undid the two pipes at the front double connector just where the footwell is, and now cannot remember which pipe goes where (Muppet) , does the pipe to the connector nearest the drivers sill go to the drivers side rear wheel, and the one nearer the middle of the car go to the passenger side wheel via across the petrol tank.

No 3 Where can I get the Brake pipe plastic clips from as they have all broken

Hope some one can help, I was going to replace one at a time, but it was easier to take them both off the front connector at one time. The problem was when the pipes just fell off the car they were that rotten. Cheers Tony

Many thanks, I got in touch with my MOT garage and yes in theory the tank should come off, but was told not just by them but by another three garages that I asked and they all siad they would not take the tank off if I had taken it to them ( Not back street Garages decent ones). In fact if you wanted to and the pipe didnt foul anything you could re-route it, as long as it is secured and is not rubbing or catching on anything, they cannot fail it when it goes for its MOT. When I looked there was only two clips that you cannot get to if you thread it back over the tank so I did this , I secured it in two different places and replaced all the other clips with new onesl. Not a nice job laid on your back but its done now, I was going to do the front steel pipes as well but they are fine and I think you need to take Battery box off to get to these. Cannot believe how bad the front to rear were though. basham
The only thing now while it is on four stands is that the Exhaust looks none to good the first skins have gone, not blowing yet but tempted to change it quoted £110 all in for both middle and back boxes plus clamps and rubbers trade (Walkers Exhaust)

I wouldn't drop the tank out - I would thread the pipes up over and get them into as many clip locations as possible.

Exhaust? If the skins are flaking, I'd still drive on aslong as it isn't blowing.

I have done the front to rears steel pipe, and double cheaked all the others (took pan off) they are OK. I am miffed though as there is no record on the vosa site stating the garage that motd the car advised on brake pipes or the exhaust which they should have done. Asked the chap who i bought it from and he said all he ever did was take it for service or mot and got done what they told him. So the garage must have put the grease on the corroded pipes !!!, it was only tested 6 mths ago and less than 1300 miles. Plus I know I have replaced with copper pipe, but have hamerited and after it dried greased the pipes so as to protect them

Ok, Mine failed on this to today, is it best then to replace with MG/Rover pipes or get the old ones off and have new ones made up??, Are they one long section of pipe or do the have joining sections along the lenth?. Thanks

The pipes are both in full lengths and the connectors are just where the drivers foot board is. I found out you cannot go wrong as the connectors are different sizes, to tell the truth i used my old unions and if you buy the pure copper pipe and get your self a flaring tool which only cost about £20 on eBay you can flare them yourself, again i did mine under the car because this way i could fix to clips until i got near the end then measure the exact length i wanted cut pipe and flared it.
If possible get the car up on four proper axle stands, as i said the drivers side pipe is very easy to do, just unclip and undo the union's you will find it is easier to replace all the clips on the floor pan, BUT try not to break the ones on the sill side at the back ( Rimmer sell the clips)

Re the one that goes over the tank cut the pipe on the drivers side of the tank undo the union on the flexi pipe on the passenger side then pull carefully so it doesn't catch on any wires or hoses on top of the tank. You will find it pulls of the two clips and comes free. Some people cut the old pipe both sides of the tank and leave the old pipe connected it is up to you. What I did then was not to cut any new copper pipe of the new roll but feed it carefully over the tank drivers side to pasenger , when it has gone right over i then put the union on and flared the pipe, connected it to n/s flexi clipped it back onto the clips i could reach, then put some rubber pipe around it and attached it with tie wraps to the tank straps at the top (The Rubber Pipe stops it rubbing) then on the drivers side attach it as the passenger side. IE tie wrap, rubber pipe top of tank then to the clips at the back and work towards front clipping it and unrolling it when you get to where they go through suspension measure with a bit of string the exact length you need, cut the pipe from the roll and flare the pipe then feed through suspension and connect it to its union. I always fill the reservoir undo bleed nipples and let the fluid just run out under its own pressure until it is running clear nip up nipples and bleed system. I have a proper air line pressure bleeder but if not start from the farthest away from the master cylinder o/s rear then n/s rear then o/s front then n/s front bleed until no air and fresh fluid. You only cannot manage to clip the pipe onto the two clips above the petrol tank. I asked at least four MOT testers and all said they would not drop exhaust tank etc and as long as the new pipe was secure and not rubbing any where they would pass them . I also sprayed black paint on the new pipes and covered them in grease I know they are copper but it stops them oxidising hope this helps . basham

Mine very corroded when i got the car 18months ago as pointed out when i mot d it but when i inspected them a bit of sandpaper and a bit of grease to protect them and they are as good as new and passed the last mot in november fine and also the council mot too (taxi).

Be very carefull mine were covered in grease by the mot garage yet only 5 mths after the mot they nearly killed my self and grand daughter when they bust on me driving. down the road. Please be carefull basham

I noticed during last weekend's service that the pipes looked a wee bit furry. Methinks a closer look this weekend is on the cards as I'm planning on stripping/cleaning the back brakes anyway.

RE changing pipes. Ive done the job on two E36 BMWs and a Focus estate and I've always just re-routed around tanks or clipped as well as possible and had no probs with MOT's. In fact I was congratulated on the job I did on the Focus (nice, as it took me three days and cost me untold knuckle skin).

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