There really are some stupid people working at DJI !

We all know that the launch of the H3-2D was a fiasco with circa 30% failure rate on the first batches.

Now we have the H3-3D and already changes have been made in production. Now that CAN be a good thing if the production changes are improvements but in this case what DJI have done is nothing short of total stupidity.

The new version H3-3D has done away with the GoPro interface socket ( a feature that I actually thought made for a very clean install) and replaced it with a VERY fragile ribbon cable that connects to the GP USB port. Not only is the ribbon cable going to break very easily but it means you have to unplug the interface everytime you want to remove the micro SD card. So that will be pretty much after every couple of flights to download the files then !!

We all know that the launch of the H3-2D was a fiasco with circa 30% failure rate on the first batches.

Now we have the H3-3D and already changes have been made in production. Now that CAN be a good thing if the production changes are improvements but in this case what DJI have done is nothing short of total stupidity.

The new version H3-3D has done away with the GoPro interface socket ( a feature that I actually thought made for a very clean install) and replaced it with a VERY fragile ribbon cable that connects to the GP USB port. Not only is the ribbon cable going to break very easily but it means you have to unplug the interface everytime you want to remove the micro SD card. So that will be pretty much after every couple of flights to download the files then !!

If you have the New H3-3D gimbal (the one with external AV output video board) and you want to use it with DJI Lightbridge for HDMI video transmission, you will have to unplug the AV output video board (as shown in picture on the right), plug the HDMI cable of your DJI Lightbridge into the HDMI port of the GoPro camera. Unfortunately, you will not be able to charge your GoPro camera.

Basically the new version of the H3-3D will not use the GoPro interface at the rear of the camera in any configuration.

If you only want composite video feed out (as we get now with existing 2D's and 3D's then you will need to plug in the daft ribbon cable into the USB port on the GP. This will give composite video out to feed to your video TX as well as supply +5v to charge the GP battery at the same time.

However - If you want to use the overpriced Lightbridge with the gimbal you have to clip in a different board onto that ever so fragile ribbon cable and then plug that into the HDMI port of the GP.

Here's the thing that DJI really haven't thought through though. By plugging into the HDMI socket on the GoPro you lose the ability to charge whilst streaming HD video so you are totally relying on the internal battery on the camera. The problem is when you switch on the HDMI out the GoPro actually draws more current and therefore your battery is going to last probably 20 mins at best!

In either configuration you cannot access the micro SD slot without unplugging that weak ribbon cable.

Basically the new version of the H3-3D will not use the GoPro interface at the rear of the camera in any configuration.

If you only want composite video feed out (as we get now with existing 2D's and 3D's then you will need to plug in the daft ribbon cable into the USB port on the GP. This will give composite video out to feed to your video TX as well as supply +5v to charge the GP battery at the same time.

However - If you want to use the overpriced Lightbridge with the gimbal you have to clip in a different board onto that ever so fragile ribbon cable and then plug that into the HDMI port of the GP.

Here's the thing that DJI really haven't thought through though. By plugging into the HDMI socket on the GoPro you lose the ability to charge whilst streaming HD video so you are totally relying on the internal battery on the camera. The problem is when you switch on the HDMI out the GoPro actually draws more current and therefore your battery is going to last probably 20 mins at best!

In either configuration you cannot access the micro SD slot without unplugging that weak ribbon cable.

I couldn't agree more. DJI really do have some large concentration of brain dead people working for that company. If I spent more time researching into the various issues, design flaws, and total madness that is built into their products I would not have purchased my Phantom 2, 2 weeks ago.
I purchased the P2 along with the ZenMuse Gimbal H3-2D, which almost fried my GoPro due to the horrific design of the interface, I then returned that gimbal and as a show of good quality customer service from the place I purchased it from, upgraded me to the new H3-3D, along with the "anti-interference board" which is nothing more than a "step-down power distribution block". I just received that yesterday only to find out, yet again with a DJI Product that these idiots wanted their customers to try to fit a circular plug into a square hole, really? Can you really be that dumb DJI? I own the older version of the Phantom 2, and now there is a newer version of the Phantom 2 which has come out within the last couple of weeks which has a circular hole cut into the bottom to accommodate the 3rd axis motor of the H3-3D gimbal. So here I go again, trying to clean up yet another idiotic problem caused by DJI. BUT IT GETS BETTER, the H3-3D has a mounting adapter which should have been included with the gimbal to allow it to fit on the old Phantom 2, but here is the most idiotic part, that adapter hasn't been produced yet, nor have DJI released any timetable for when it will be.
I have read to many web posts from phantom 2 owners who have cut a hole into the bottom of their phantoms to accommodate the 3rd axis motor, all resulting in a very unstable platform. The 3rd axis motor bounces around within that cavity and slamming into the battery during flight maneuvers.
Also, on a side note regarding the installation of the power distribution block. DJI has also seen fit to use aluminum screws to secure the body near the motors which need to be removed so that you can fix YOURSELF & install the distribution block. These screws are extremely easy to strip which I found out yesterday. In the event anyone is reading this and have also done the same I have a rather easy fix to remove that screw.
This repair will require a Dremel tool with a metal cutting disc installed. I made a straight cut across the center head of the Philips screw, only go down about .5mm. From there you can use a flat head small screwdriver to unscrew it. Helpful advise also, order replacement screw packs to have on hand, knowing DJI this will mist likely not be the only time we will be modifying some component within the Phantom 2. I got my spare phantom 2 screw packs from www.uavdirect.com.