Hi you may have something in the sump there's a screen on the right side ofthe spray arm with 2 screws remove them and take screen off use yourfingers to probe the cavity be careful it could be glass. If there is something in here it will make a grinding noise and stay in drain cycle forever.

If it does not correct the problem

!.You may have an electric pump . and it could be a check valve at the pump and hose assembly...where the check valve is...see below . so it could be a bad pump but I doubt it.

GE dishwashers will have a sumpentrance screen ( #4 ) that should beremoved and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which isbehind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separatedrain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the mostcommon GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drainsolenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stopthe draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain portwill not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. Thesolenoid can be ohmedwith an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GEdishwashers have a selfclean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back.The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body.This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow thedraining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and theplunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstaclefor the draining water in the backflush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twistor distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to beaccessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the selfclean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drainhose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked forrestrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled waterfalls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes throughthe filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( wehope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into thecollection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump outmode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closesthe piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collectionchamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve islocated in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the draindirection only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drainline check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve inthe collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out iscomplete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into thetub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Hereis a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data basebut since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to thisformat...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and good day...please rate my effort......thanks....The Fang.

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your drain hose is probably plugged to the drain especially if it goes through the garbage disposal first,remove drain hose from dishwasher at the disposer and see if its plugged,if so unplug obstruction,then start it and put hose in sink and press drain/cancel and see if it drains now

The water temp thermostat is to blame or the water is not heating.Basically what happens is the washer fills with cold water and starts to wash and heat at the same time.Once the water reaches a certain temperature it moves onto the next stage of the wash program.If the water is not heating or the thermostat is not working the programmer wont get the signal to move on.Hope this helps.

Have you tried pulling out the motor rotor and checking for anything stuck under it? try swapping it with the other drawer. If it still won't go you need to swap over the motor controllers between the two drawers if the fault moves you need a new Motor controller module. Cheers

Same problem , i fixed by opening the door compleet then cleaning the bottom of the door with a kitchen cleaning paper that may do it afther that disconect the power compleet whait 1 minut connect it al again and it should work , don't ask me why this cleaning action i just found it out

From what you say then it is most likely the aqua sensor on the side of the dishwasher. The gurgling sounds that you hear are likely the drain pump running and the un-drainable water sloshing in the sump.

Verify that there is actually water going to the dishwasher( Basic step but often overlooked)

Next the inlet valve will have to be checked. This is the part where the water line from the house connects to the dishwasher, under the toe/kick panel. Remove power from the dishwasher. Disconnect the dishwasher electrical connections (2 wires) to the inlet valve and connect it (carefully to 110 V power) using a jumper wire. With 110V power the valve should open and water will flow into the dishwasher, if not then the fault is in the inlet valve.

If this checks fine then the fault is likely in the aqua sensor...

On the outer left side (viewed from front) there is a panel, Behind this panel there is a small clear(of light blue) plastic mechanism with hoses and wires attached( There is usually a yellow disk at the top about 6cm in diameter) this is a float and sensor assembly there is tells the control the water level and works as an emergency drain if there is an issue. There will be a red stick protruding downward to the base and a Styrofoam float on which the stick rests. This is a pan overflow sensor if the stick is too high the unit will go into drain and cut off the fill valve power. The yellow disk is a diaphragm which senses water height. This unit can become stuck with wear and hard water.