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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Install the oil cooler (2) to the frame with three clamps (4), three socket head screws (1), three nuts (5) and six washers (3) from the kit. Orient the clamps flat side forward and on the forward side of the oil cooler. Tighten the three oil cooler mounting screws to 96-120 in- lbs (10.9-13.5 Nm) . 2. See Figure 2. Remove the spin-on oil filter and oil filter adapter (1) from oil filter mount location. Clean the oil filter mounting area thoroughly. Discard oil filter and adapter. 1 3 4 4 4 3 5 2 is03387 1. Socket head screw (3) 2. Oil cooler 3. Washer (6) 4. Clamp (3) 5. Locknut (3) Figure 1. Oil Cooler Clamp Installation NOTE The oil cooler adapter assembly has two flanges protruding out of the back side. The flanges must be installed toward the oil filter mounting location and through the oil adapter gasket. 3. See Figure 3. From the kit, install the oil cooler adapter gasket (3) onto the oil cooler adapter assembly (1). The oil cooler adapter assembly flanges should be aligned so it is installed into the oil adapter cooler gasket cutout as shown. NOTE Due to the locating flanges, the oil cooler adapter assembly and gasket will only install properly in one position on the oil filter mounting surface. 4. See Figure 3. Install the oil cooler adapter assembly and gasket onto the oil filter mounting surface of the engine with the mounting fitting (2). Ensure adapter locates properly in the mounting surface. Ensure the raised lip of the mounting fitting faces the adapter assembly. Tighten mounting fitting to 12-16 ft-lbs (16.3-21.7 Nm) .NOTE Slide hose clamps from the kit onto the hoses prior to installa- tion. 1 2 is00754 1. Oil filter adapter 2. Oil filter seal surface Figure 2. Stock Filter Mounting Adapter 1 2 3 is00761 1. Oil cooler adapter assembly 2. Mounting fitting 3. Oil cooler adapter gasket Figure 3. Install Oil Adapter 5. See Figure 5. Obtain the left side cooler hose (4) and right side cooler hose (5) from kit. Follow the markings on hoses to connect onto the oil cooler and oil cooler adapter, as shown. 6. Fasten hoses to oil cooler adapter and oil cooler with worm drive clamps (6). Tighten clamps to 8.0 in-lbs (0.9 Nm) . 7. Lubricate a new oil filter’s seal with new engine oil. Thread filter on until seal touches mounting surface, then turn an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn. NOTE Position the clamps to avoid interference with oil filter installation. Check that hose routing is clear of the oil filter and sharp edges. The hoses must be free of bends or kinks that could obstruct oil flow. 8. Ensure all cables and harnesses are clear of the oil cooler adapter, in order to prevent wear. 9. Thoroughly clean the oil cooler of all dirt, grease and wax with isopropyl alcohol. Use the alcohol to clean the chrome oil cooler cover as needed. Allow to dry. is00745 Figure 4. Apply Sealant Inside Chrome Cover 10. See Figure 4. Apply sealant to the inside of the chrome cover as shown, at the upper and lower corners. NOTES Be careful to avoid getting sealant on the oil cooler cooling fins. Do not operate the motorcycle for 24 hours to allow the sealant to fully cure. 11. Slip the cover over the oil cooler. Remove any excess sealant from the front and back of the oil cooler. Hold the cover firmly in place for one minute. System Flow Test 2005 & Later Models or Models with Later Style Dipsticks Oil level cannot be accurately measured on a cold engine. For pre-ride inspection, with motorcycle leaning on jiffy stand on level ground, oil should register on dipstick between arrows when engine is cold. Do not add oil to bring the level to the FULL mark on a COLD engine. (00185a) 2004 & Earlier Models

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Engine Oil Replacement • Replace the engine oil after the first 50 miles or 1 hour with 5w50, 10w50 or 15W50 synthetic engine oil. Then replace again every 1,500 miles or 1 each year. Check oil level every 500 miles, add oil if needed. Changing the Engine Oil (1).Warm up the engine for a few minutes. (2).Stop the engine. (3). Place scooter on center stand. (4).Place an oil pan under the engine and remove the dipstick. (5).Remove the drain plug and drain the oil. Reach in drain hole, pull out filter clean and reinstall, after all oil drains out. (6).Reinstall drain plug. (7). Fill the engine with oil until the level is in the designated area on the dipstick. (8).Start the engine and check for oil leaks. If a leak is found stop the engine immediately and look for cause. Rear Wheel Oil Replacement • Replace the gear oil after the first 500 miles with 5W/50 synthetic engine oil. Replace the gear oil again every 4 months or every 2000 miles. • Replacing the Gear Oil (1).Put the scooter on the center stand (please see photo below) . (2).Place an oil pan under the gear case (please see photo below) . (3).Remove the oil filler bolt and the drain plug to drain the oil (please see photo below) . (4).Reinstall and tighten the drain plug. (5).Fill the gear case with oil (please see photo below) . (6).Reinstall the oil filler bolt. (7).Check for oil leakage. Cleaning Air Cleaner Be sure to check the air cleaner regularly. (1).Place the scooter on the center stand. (2).Unscrew and remove the left side panel. (3).Remove the air cleaner cover by removing the screws. (4).Take out the air cleaner by removing the screws. (5).Remove the air cleaner element and wash it gently, but thoroughly in solvent. Replace if damaged. (6).Squeeze out the excess solvent and dry it. (7).Apply oil to the entire surface of the air cleaner and squeeze out the excess oil. It should be damp but not dripping. (8).Install the air cleaner, cleaner cover, and left side panel. center stand 1 oil pan 2 3 oil drain plug oil pan 5 Main Switches On Position: • Electrical circuits are switched on. The engine can be started and the key can not be removed.

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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INSTALLATION: 1. See FIG. F: Apply a thin film of oil to O-RING (#9) on OIL COOLER MOUNT ADAPTER (#2). Install the OIL COOLER MOUNT ADAPTER with OIL COOLER SUMP STUD (#6). Note that o-ring on adapter is mounted against oil filter sump. TIP: Only tighten “finger tight” at this point so adapter can move as needed to adjust oil lines. 2. See FIG. G: Install OIL LINES (#3 & #4) to OIL COOLER and OIL COOLER MOUNT ADAPTER as shown. Do not tighten fittings yet. NOTE: The shorter 9-3/4″ OIL LINE will be on the TOP fitting on the ADAPTER. 3. See FIG. H :Install OIL COOLER to frame with the BILLET OIL COOLER CLAMP (#7). Adjust OIL COOLER to desired position and tighten the three 10-24 X 1/2 SOCKET HEAD SCREWS (#8) securely. Rotate the OIL COOLER MOUNT ADAPTER as necessary to align the Oil Lines properly. WARNING: Make sure OIL COOLER is moved outward far enough so that it does not contact the Front Fender when the fender goes through its full range of motion! 5. See FIG. I & J: Tighten the AN fittings on the OIL COOLER MOUNT ADAPTER as shown with an 11/16″ open end wrench. Tighten the AN fittings on the OIL COOLER with an 11/16″ open end wrench. TIP: To prevent the OIL COOLER from turning when the fittings are tightened, place a thin screw driver or long allen wrench between the fittings as shown. NOTE: DO NOT USE ANY SEALANT ON AN FITTINGS! 6. See FIG. K : Tighten OIL COOLER SUMP STUD (#6). Re-install oil filter. Start the engine and check for leaks. Check oil level and top-off as necessary. MAINTENANCE:

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The Norton filter adapter is then bolted to the rear piece, oil hoses are added, an oil filter is screwed into place, and the assembly is offered to the bike. With the bike supported by straps up on a lift, it will be easy to loosely mount the front clamp section in place and slide the whole assembly up the frame tube. In order to miss the center stand, the filter will need to be as high as possible without the grease nipple striking the top of the adapter. As it ends up, there is “sweet spot” where both the nipple and the stand miss the oil filter by about an 1/8 inch. Tighten the mount down when you find that place. I found that the Norton filter adapter is best plumbed using 5/16 ID black neoprene fuel hose. The spigots on the adapter are 3/8 inch, but it is better to stretch the hose over these that to use easier fitting 3/8 ID hose and then try to shrink it onto the Triumph’s smaller metal oil lines. There will simply be fewer oil leaks using the smaller hose. Be sure that you plumb the filter into the oil line that returns engine oil back to the oil tank. The Triumph oil pump cannot be counted on to create enough vacuum to suction highly viscous motor oil through a very fine filter during cool temperatures. Trying to place the filter on the oil line feeding the engine will quickly result in massive engine damage. It is always better to have the oil pump pushing oil through the filter, and the only way to have RF Whatley, Suwanee, GA 5 Jan 2008 that is to use the return oil line. On all “unit-construction” Triumph engines, the rear-most oil port is the engine oil return. Other Notes • It is generally considered that adding an oil filter will at least quadruple the life of a British motorcycle engine. These motors, which were for the most part perfected in the 1950′s, were designed to run on the older non-detergent oils. In the original design, the oil tank was the oil filter since all particulate debris in the oil settled to the bottom of the oil tank as sediment. All modern engine oils are high-detergent and tend to inhibit the formation of sediment. Therefore most of the fine abrasive in the engine oil continues to circulate unless a filter is added.

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LCD DIPSTICK INSTALLATION 1. Remove the original equipment (OE) dipstick from the filler neck. 2. Non-threaded Dipsticks: Lightly oil the O-ring on the new LCD dipstick. Orient the dipstick so that the display window is horizontal and readable from left to right, with the Bar and Shield logo to the left (towards the rear of the motorcycle). Push the dipstick straight into the filler neck until it seats. 3. For threaded dipsticks: Lightly oil O-ring and screw into the transmission like OE dipstick. If the orientation of the display is unsatisfactory when fully seated, refer to Adjusting the Display Angle later in these instructions. NOTE To be sure of correct readings, the dipstick MUST seat firmly against the flange. LCD DIPSTICK USE AND CARE Removing the Dipstick The dipstick assembly must be removed from the filler neck to add oil or to service the internal battery. Displaying the Oil Temperature and Level See Figure 1. Press and release the rubber button on the front face to display the temperature of the oil in the oil tank in degrees Fahrenheit (°F), and the oil level. The display will automatically shut off after approximately ten seconds. Do not overfill oil tank. Doing so can result in oil carryover to the air cleaner leading to equipment damage and/or equipment malfunction. (00190a) NOTES Oil level cannot be accurately measured: • on a cold engine • with the motorcycle upright • with the engine running NOTE Oil level on 2000 through 2004 Softail models with the original dipstick is checked with the motorcycle standing upright (not leaning on the jiffy stand). THIS IS NOT THE CASE with the LCD oil temperature/level dipstick. For all 2000 and later Softail models, oil level inspection must be done with the motorcycle LEANING ON the jiffy stand, on level ground. For pre-ride oil level inspection: With the motorcycle on level ground, RESTING ON the jiffy stand : •The oil level should be as indicated in Figure 1, display 4 through 8 (bars showing oil level, and “COLD OIL” message followed by flashing oil temperature) when the engine is cold. DO NOT ADD OIL to bring the level to the FULL mark on the dipstick of a COLD engine. •If the oil level indicates as in display 9 (animated level bars, followed by an “888 NO SENSOR” code), the wires inside the dipstick may be disconnected or damaged. Refer to Replacing the Battery later in these instructions to separate the dipstick upper and lower assemblies. If the small plug next to the battery has become dislodged from the receptacle, plug it in. If a visible wire is damaged, a repair can be attempted. If no damage is visible, the dipstick is damaged internally and should be replaced. For oil level inspection at operating temperature: Ride the motorcycle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Idle for 1-2 minutes with the motorcycle on level ground, RESTING ON the jiffy stand (except Softails) , turn the engine OFF.