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CWE5200ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for CWE5200ACB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the wall oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

F1-1 code

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)

Removed 2 screws, pulled element out. My husband used an ohmmeter to see if the electricity needed to be turned off. It showed no voltage. He could not remove electrical connectors by hand, so he used insulated pliers. When he touched the connectors, a shower of sparks covered the inside of the oven and tripped the breaker switch. Then we noticed the pliers were welded to the side of the oven. Thankfully the pliers had insulated handles and he was not hurt. It might be a good idea to put in the instructions to TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN in the breaker panel because our oven was definitely HOT. Oven works perfectly now.

defective oven sensor

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

Code said we needed a sensor

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

After self cleaning the oven received an error code telling me the sensor was bad.

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

Oven kept shutting off, getting F-3, F-5 messages on LED readout

I was out pricing new stoves. Why are slide in stoves twice the price of regular stoves?? I tried one last go at ordering part, overnight mail. Needed to get it fixed for the holiday meal. Part came within one day, early, and it worked. Stove fixed easily, spent the money on a big screen TV.

Oven failed to maintain the set temperature.

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor. Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

oven getting 50 degrees or more, hotter than setting

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

F1 code and oven wouldn't operate

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

I used tiny amount of WD40 on old screws,let sit for 2 minutes. Tapped the screws(2) of them with a small hammer to wake them up, I had a cordless drill and they backed right out. Pulled the old element out, used needle nose pliers to pull connectors off of the element(wiggle gently) put the new element on, reinserted back in the oven,attached with new screws that came with the element, started the oven. Worked Perfect!!!