Have been sailing Hobiecats for 20 yrs +, never using the boom vang What's up with that ? Havn't noticed any others using it. Feedback ? What is the correct /best method

Boom vangs are used on most dinghys and monohulls to control the leech of their mainsail. On Hobies, we have a mainsail traveler which spans the width of the boat and then our mainsheet, which if all used correctly can do the same thing as a boom vang. Basically, when going downwind, let the traveler out all the way to the end and the mainsheet tension will then control the twist on the leech of the main. Usually medium to loose tension works best sailing downwind.

On my 14, I use a shockcord boom vang. Since there is no jib to help the wind accelarate across the leeward side of the main, I strap this into the corner casting to help keep the leech tight and not raise the boom. It works great in chop as you can slightly sheet the sail in to help keep the mast rotated. Also, I reversed my trampoline (laces forward) and vang out about 12-18" upwind in chop to keep the mast from banging around. Vangs work on 14s!!

Could you confirm that the mainsheet traveller is the rail on the rear beam?

Are you saying that you let the traveller rope out to the leeward (downwind) side and tighten up the downhaul somewhat, to keep sail shape (control the leech)?

I find that on my 14, if I get fancy with moving anything other than the absolute necessary stuff, the rudders go on their own and I round up or thrash around in an undesired directions. Any suggestions?

Bob Curry

Are you saying that you use the boom vang connection to connect a shockcord to the leeward rear corner tramp casting? What are the size, length and strength of the shockcord? Do you also let out the rear traveller?

I am having a bit of trouble understanding " reversing the trampoline lacing". Any picstures?

Thanks for the help. Forums are great for sailors such as myself in the boonies!

Because of the way that the main downhaul cleats it is common to set the downhaul for the conditions either before you leave the beach or in between races but not while racing. If there were a better downhaul system on the boat it would be best to let the downhaul off when sailing downwind and in when sailing upwind.

You may want to check the alignment of your rudders to make sure that they're close to parallel to each other and also the rake of the rudders which on a Hobie 14 I'm not sure exactly what the best rake is? Any 14 sailors that can comment on the rudder rake?

Actually I was touching on a bit of exaggeration regarding the "thrashing around".

I did set up the rake of the rudders (big help) and I am going to set up the toe in tomorrow.

I tried what you said about the traveller and it works! I had previously tried pulling the traveller to windward (past the centre) when on a tack but that was a bit too exciting. The boat probably pointed better, but was a bit twitchy and wanted to roll quickly. I suspect that as I get better I could retry that ploy.

Are you saying that you use the boom vang connection to connect a shockcord to the leeward rear corner tramp casting? What are the size, length and strength of the shockcord? Do you also let out the rear traveller?

I am having a bit of trouble understanding " reversing the trampoline lacing". Any picstures?
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Thanks for asking questions!!

First, the shockcord vang connects to the space between the tramp and the front beam, the space where the tramp feeds in. The shockcord size is 1/4" and I triple it so I don't know the length. I do get a long piece and cut out the excess when I'm finished.
Downwind, I let the traveler out 3/4 of the way to the end of the traveler track. This allows the excess line to not get wrapped around the corner casting during a jibe.
Normal tramp lacing is performed with the small aft strip in the rear beam. Reversing means the aft strip is now located in the front beam. Lace accordingly.

This one always causes debate! Start off with the rudders in the locked down
position. Measure down the blade 12” from the bottom of the bottom casting.
Make a line 2” perpendicular to the 12” point. Using a very thin line and
starting at the top of the rudder pin, align the line with the rudder pin
and check where the line intersects the perpendicular line on the rudder.
Optimally, you should have 1 5/8” to 1 3/4” for a measurement. To achieve
the 1 ¾” number, you might have to re-drill the front hole on the rudder or
file away at the front of the rudder where it hits the casting.

Rudder toe in should be 1/8” with the rudders in the locked down position
again measured from the 12” down point.