Casco Viejo, Panama’s colonial star in the making

It is one of the oldest and most historic towns in Central America, pride of the Spanish empire and wealthy beyond belief during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. It has classical Spanish colonial architecture, extraordinary colonial churches, lovely plazas, a sweeping view over the Pacific Ocean and an easy-going feel that could rival Cartagena in a few years time.

Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

That will only happen when they finish renovating Casco Viejo, the former capital of Panama before the skyscrapers and strip malls of modern Panama City were constructed around it. When that process is complete, Casco Viejo is likely to be more lovely to look at but equally likely to be less interesting as its traditional life and inhabitants are forced out by boutique hotels, rising prices and a government determined to lure tourists away from neighbouring countries.

Even though contemporary Casco Viejo resembles a giant historic building site it is still a fascinating place to walk around. Although it was so hot and humid we had to keep diving into cafes to hydrate and take advantage of the fans/air conditioning. By hot, I mean riverlets of sweat literally running off me – it wasn’t pleasant and this is the ‘dry season’.

Leggy street art in Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

Leggy street art in Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

Building in Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

Building in Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

While just wandering the streets is rewarding in its own right, there are some must-sees in Casco Viejo. Opening times seem erratic due to the redevelopment of the area, but if you get the chance the Iglesia de San Jose has a remarkable and ornate alter; the Iglesia de San Francisco is worth a look; Plaza de la Indpendencia is leafy and surrounded by beautiful buidings, including the Cathedral; and the huge theatre has a beautiful interior.

Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

Panama hats, Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

Although Casco Viejo is safe to walk around day or night, a few short blocks away are poorer neighbourhoods which are anything but safe. A taxi driver told us he wouldn’t drive through these areas at night, and if you happen to be partaking of some of Casco Viejo’s excellent bars and restaurants at night be careful not to wander too far off the beaten path. Fast forward a couple of years and those areas will, no doubt, have been ‘cleansed’ as well.

Why camelids?

After more than a decade in London it seemed like time to do something completely different, and with the support of our friends in Bolivia we hatched a plan to move to this high altitude Andean nation for a year (maybe more)...

The view from Camelids

A campesino woman poses for a photo in Tarabuco, Sucre, Bolivia

Leggy street art in Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

Tower Bridge, London, England

Salinas Grandes, Argentina

Fishermen and fish on the beach at Vila do Maio, Maio, Cape Verde (photo from Maio Facebook page)

COPYRIGHT

Please get in touch if you would like to use any of the images or blog posts.

DISCLAIMER

This is my blog. The thoughts on these pages are my personal views and opinions. They’re not representative of anyone else’s opinion, nor should they be ascribed to any organizations with which I’m associated.

Except when intentional, nothing written here is intended to offend. I consider the things I’ve written to be accurate, but making mistakes is part of the human condition and I’m human.

It is not my intention to do harm. Nor is it my intention to libel, defame or malign any religion, ethnic group, club, organization, company or individual, especially those that have the resources and desire to pursue a grievance. I accept no responsibility for any harm or good that comes from following any suggestions made in these pages.