Anzac letter from Giza returns

Years ago I was given a letter dated 6 January 1915, written by my granddad’s brother Private 462 Tom (T.J.) Sullivan to my lovely old Aunty Bell, while he was camped in Mena military camp at the base of the Giza Pyramids.

Among other things in the letter, Tom outlined the trip via Albany to Alexandria with the 1st Brigade of the Australian Imperial Force, mentioned the sinking of the German ship Emden en route, a burial at sea, being escorted by Japanese, French, and Russian ships, camping in the rain in Alexandria, final training near the Giza pyramids, and expecting to ‘meet the Turks rather than the Germans’.

After writing the letter, Tom sailed via Lemnos Island and went ashore at ANZAC Cove on 25th April 1915. An Infantryman, Tom fought with his mates up to Walker’s Ridge, Russell’s Top, Quinn’s Post and other battle sites before being wounded in the Battle of Lone Pine in August 1915.

I have a newspaper clipping which mentions him being hit by ‘nine pieces of shrapnel’.

He was evacuated to Mena Hospital in Cairo and died on 11 March 1916. He was buried the same day.

After years of planning and waiting for the right time, my son Warrick and I followed Tom’s path in a trip which was more family history journey than holiday, and was as fulfilling as it was enjoyable.

Our journey really started when we arrived at the harbour in the beautiful city of Alexandria where Tom landed with the A.I.F.

They later made the train journey south to Cairo for further training.

While we were in the region, we travelled along the North coast towards Libya, stopping at El Alamein in honour of some now deceased old friends of mine who fought there and in other parts of the Middle East against Rommel’s Afrika Korps in the Western Desert Campaign during World War Two.

We also tracked down the grave of Victoria Cross recipient Arthur Stanley Gurney who once lived at Day Dawn near Cue.

I see his memorial each time I pass through Cue on my trips to Meekatharra as a Transwa Road Coach driver.

Eventually arriving in Cairo, armed with Tom’s letter, his war records and a photo of my great uncle Ernest of the 5th Light Horse kneeling next to Tom’s grave in 1916, we travelled to the old part of Cairo, looking for Tom’s final resting place.

After making enquiries with local people and checking various maps, we eventually found what we came for.

We located Tom’s grave in a beautifully-kept Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery settled quietly within high stone walls, and somehow seemingly in another world from the dust and bustle of Coptic Cairo outside.

It was a moving and worthwhile experience and one we won’t forget.

We placed bunches of beautiful local flowers on the grave and stood there, with a lot going through our minds, in the exact place Uncle Ernest did almost a hundred years ago.

We had to leave eventually of course, but, now that we’ve found him, I doubt it’s the last time a relative will visit Tom.

We went on to visit the site of the old Mena military camp alongside the Giza Pyramids, from where Tom wrote the letter all those years ago, and to Mena hospital where he died.

Mena hospital had originally been a palace until it was used as a hospital during the war, and it’s very easy to imagine the wounded and sick soldiers lining the corridors in their beds.

While still in Egypt, we visited many well-known sights, including the Sphinx, the pyramids at Saqqara and the amazing Egyptian Museum in Tahrir Square.

There had been violent protests in the square and more were building, but we were prudent and were able to skirt around any real problems.

We also took a four day Nile River cruise, visiting Abu Simbel, Aswan, Luxor, Valley of the Kings, Queen Hatshepsut’s Temple and, among others, King Tutankhamun’s Tomb.

Leaving Egypt, we flew to Istanbul, picked up a hire car, hopped in the wrong side of it and drove it down the wrong side of the road to the beautiful city of Canakkale, across the Dardanelles from the Gallipoli Peninsula.

I’d describe that as a very different and very exciting experience – mostly for the other road users. And now I know why I don’t trust hire car drivers in Australia.

We walked the battlefields for the next two days, taking in all battle sites from ANZAC Cove up past The Nek and Chunuk Bair and down to ‘V’ Beach and Cape Helles, including all the places Tom fought and where he was wounded at Lone Pine - an amazing experience and a time for deep reflection and profound respect.

Most of those young men were in their twenties, and, taking into consideration the extraordinary things they had to do and what they sacrificed, any words I could use to describe their courage and endurance would fall far short of doing them justice.

Among the many inscriptions on grave stones in those beautiful, silent, peaceful cemeteries are these: “Tread softly on the green grass sod. A mother’s love lies here.” Another reads, “May his soul rest in peace. My brave son.”

Down on the beach, there is a tall plaque with the following words, written by Turkish commander Mustafa Kemal Ataturk:

“Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives ... You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours... You, the mothers, who sent their sons from far away countries wipe away your tears. Your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well” - Ataturk 1934.

May they all, including the young Turkish defenders who fought and are buried there, Rest In Peace.

After returning to Istanbul, we flew to London for a three day visit, purely as tourists – catching up with old and new friends there and visiting all the well-known sites – London Tower, Tower Bridge, Thames River Cruise, Churchill’s War Rooms, London Eye, Big Ben, Buckingham Palace etc.

Warrick and I came away from the journey with similar feelings: that we had fulfilled the main purpose of our journey and located Tom’s grave to pay our respects.

No part of the trip could top that.

We had also reminded ourselves that Australia is very much a lucky country.

What we’d absorbed throughout our visit to Egypt and Gallipoli confirmed for us that life shouldn’t be taken for granted.

It’s relatively easy these days, and it really is what we make it.

Personally, if I think I’m having a rough day, I’ll remember the young ANZACS like Tom and all the others, and get on with it.

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Comments

Barbara & Derek

On a return trip from Kalbarri to Perth my wife and I were the recipients of Ricks commentary regarding his Gallipli sojourn and his lovely poem of "Ghosts of Murray Dwyer". " Lifes choices and experiences are influenced by our open mindedness and the ability to adapt". Thanks for the yarn.

JOHN MANSFIELD

I have a lump in my throat and a tear in my eye.

Gail

this would touch the hearts of many. Thank you for sharing.

Claire Buckenara

Ah wow, lovely story!! Thank you for sharing.

therese

What an experience to share with your beautiful son. You have both done your families proud .Great reward for a great effort

Jan McMonigal

Thank you Rick for sharing a lot of this story on the bus (Kalbarri to Perth Tue 12th Nov 2013). I felt privileged then and more so now that I have viewed your video. Of course I bawled through most of it as your narration was very personal and moving and the deep respect I also acknowledge. I wrote about my Uncle and his story is at the Canberra War Memorial-(Gentle Courage). You are a caring man Rick and a privilege to know... Drive safely... Warmest regards, Jan

TA

Most enjoyable fellers I was so impressed i made the whole family watch it. Talk to you at Hockey

Jim Evans

I remember some time ago traveling with you as you drove the Westrail Road Coach and you were talking about this upcoming trip you were planning.Rick, you've gone and done it mate. Congratulations, and what a truly great story. It's because of stories like this that the ANZAC spirit will never die but only grow stronger.
Thanks for sharing.
Lest we Forget.

Christine

It was also with a tear in my eye I watched this. What an awesome moment it must have been to stand before Tom's headstone and no doubt say a silent prayer for this brave soldier. Great story.

Justin rafferty

Great stuff , beautiful story .Taking my eight year old daughter to local march tomorrow .Lest we Forget. Thank you for sharing .

Ian

Hello RIck and Warwick, it is with some tears in my eyes, that I thank you both for sharing your story, and your journey honouring Tom... and all the young men who gave their lives for our freedom today. I can fully understand why when asked "What do you think Dad?" that you were completely without words, ... full with many many emotions. It is a stirring place, and even more so for your personal connection there now. On the eve of ANZAC day here, I am so much more touched by your story, Thanks guys.

Susan

I was moved to tears and many thoughts.

Tony & Yvonne

A wonderful poignant journey Rick.We will be at the old Leighterton Airfield high in the Cotswolds on Anzac Day. We will remember them.

Gillie Brown

Thank you so much for sharing this Rick. What a journey - I am deeply moved. I can't imagine what it's like to see the grave of a family member - lost in war - and so so young.

Lesley-Jane Campbell

Very moving - a wonderful journey to be made.

Tim Burns

Well done fellas, proud of you and the many who battled against the odds for our great country. Thanks for the inspiration to once again dig into my family history in the hope of paying my own respects. Lest we forget.

Sioned Hancock

A very touching and moving story and have enjoyed watching it all unfold. So glad you achieved your goal and now that you have done the hard work I have no doubt that many more of your family members will visit Tom in years to come. Having been to many of the sites mentioned I could picture it all quite clearly and agree 100% that the cemetery is so very well kept! Well done and congratulations, I'm thrilled for you :-)

Sioned Hancock

Have thoroughly enjoyed watching your story unfold & am thrilled for you that you reached the end goal. Having visited some of those places myself I could envisage parts of it. I 100% agree, what a well kept cemetery! You've done a lot of the hard work so I hope that many more of your family members will take full advantage of this in years' to come. Touching story, so pleased it was a success!:-)

Raylene Fiorenza

Hi Rick and Warrick what a truely lovely and touching story thank you for sharing we should all be very proud.xx

Casey

Wonderful story. So glad you and Waz were able to fulfill this dream, and that you got to share it with us. :)