Monday, 31 August 2015

Project DeltaKayaking2015

It’s been a full and crazy summer, that’s for sure. Actually, I could
barely find the time to write this article – delayed too much, anyway. 3
months. Of heat, happiness, and many-many projects... some of them still under
construction. It is nice, however, to recall one of my most rewarding trips
ever.

Marcel and I had decided to paddle the first 5-10 km towards
Lejai Lake (to be reached on Day 2, after the remaining 10-15 km), leave the
kayaks ashore and approach the lake by foot, hoping to see pelicans, which was
actually the ultimate goal. Then, try to return by paddling 5-10 km and camp,
by leaving the last 10-15 km to Dunavăţu de Jos for the last day, with a late
lunch and the road back to Braşov.

However, plans change. Well, not in the beginning. We crossed by ferry
from Brăila [managed to find out that the ferries run round the clock; it’s
every hour from 10pm to 6am and it costs 42.50 lei for 2 people and a car,
though]. We stopped in Tulcea, at Hotel Delta, to get our permits for the
Danube Delta. There is a device issuing them in the hotel lobby; we paid 15 lei
for a 1-week regular permit, while permits for students are free of charge, but
still have to be printed out and available for control at all times. [It was
funny, because I managed to get them really wet, alongside my mobile phone and
the adjacent SIM card, so I spent some precious hours hanging them in the tent
and praying that they’d dry.]

As my attempt to settle my sweet-spot search abruptly ended when I found
out that the frozen yoghurt place in Tulcea had closed, we drove all the way to
Dunavăţu de Jos, where the official road ended, and had a tasty late
lunch/early dinner at a very nice guesthouse with an inviting pool – Pensiunea Peştişorul.

It was time to head to the pier, park the car there, pack our kayaks,
and start paddling. We never got too far. Why? Because there were plenty of
tourists not even minding us, which felt rude. I mean, I know that it may be
fun for you to drive your rental boat like a lunatic, but I’m in a small boat
trying to cover certain distances, not stop minute after minute to surf your
waves.

In the end, as it was close to sunset, we stopped and camped on a higher
shore, overlooking a small lake inhabited – amongst others – by a couple of
pelicans: the evening’s high note. Clearly not thrilled by the area or by the
scenery, optimism didn’t accompany me to sleep. I couldn’t put my eyes
together. Fireworks, cattle roaming around our tent, plus some low temperatures
prevented me from getting rest.

Day 2

I woke up a bit sad, but immediately had a change in spirits when Marcel
asked me – ‘What do you think? Shall we head back? And go to...?’ ‘Parcheş?’ I
added. Last year’s idyllic spot. Hell, yeah!

We were off in no time after exploring the small pelican lake and
getting mud all over us because of the low water level.

We had a nice lunch in Tulcea, at Hotel Insula. The heat was something
hard to digest and – tired as we were – drove towards Şomova and stopped on a hill
to sleep, in the shadow of an old oak. I felt my childhood reloading and the
sensation was deeply fulfilling.

So was the one I felt when reaching Parcheş – the orange light was still
there, no one had stolen it. There was also a ground squirrel welcoming us, it
had to be a good sign! We drove down the steep road until we reached the water.
There was no other human soul in sight; we unloaded the kayaks and head off to
explore those known places. Feelings intensified gradually, fairy tale-style.
Herons first, then egrets, then a big otter, then tens of cormorants, then
pelicans. As I stood 10 meters – maybe – away from them, I realised how lucky I
actually was and started crying big tears of joy.

We watched the sun set from our kayaks, then returned to shore. The
water level was high, so the stretch of land used by us to camp a year before
was flooded. As camping under the stars was no longer an option, we slept in
the car, at the end of one of the most beautiful days I’ve ever had travelling!

Day 3

We started paddling really early to feel the morning energy of the
animals. We did! Common terns, cormorants, herons, and even a flock of mighty
pelicans flying over our heads made our day. A.k.a. Bliss.

Sadly,
the fast-rising temperatures and the perspective of the long-way ahead made us
pack everything and head home, happy and charged, promising myself to
return, especially to Parcheş and the Măcin area, which doesn’t cease to
fascinate me year after year and trip after trip. I shouldn’t forget to tell
you that I saw pelicans here one more time. Mission accomplished.