Lisbon For 91 Dayshttp://lisbon.for91days.com
We're spending three months in Lisbon, sharing our photographs and experiences on this travel blogFri, 06 Jul 2018 08:22:41 +0000en-UShourly1https://wordpress.org/?v=4.9.832.068658-81.092583Lisbon For 91 Days: E-Book Travel Guidehttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/For91Days/~3/qtqYZaE1l-c/
http://lisbon.for91days.com/lisbon-travel-guide/#respondFri, 06 Jul 2018 08:19:36 +0000http://lisbon.for91days.com/?p=4404For three winter months, Jürgen and I lived in Lisbon, the capital and largest city of Portugal. Over the course of 91 days, we visited Lisbon’s museums and palaces, got lost in its labyrinthine ancient quarters, and sampled every bit of food and drink we could get our hands on. We’ve now collected our Lisbon […]

]]>For three winter months, Jürgen and I lived in Lisbon, the capital and largest city of Portugal. Over the course of 91 days, we visited Lisbon’s museums and palaces, got lost in its labyrinthine ancient quarters, and sampled every bit of food and drink we could get our hands on. We’ve now collected our Lisbon experiences into an e-book travel guide, with all of our articles and over 240 full-color photographs, in one handy, portable edition.

This e-book is perfect for your Kindle, Nook or any other e-reader. With alphabetical and categorical indexes, this portable edition of our blog is perfect for when you’re out and about in the city. We’re sure that our anecdotes, advice and photos can help inspire your own trip to Lisbon.

For just a few bucks, you can download your own copy of the e-book for use on your e-reader or computer. You can order it from Amazon, or directly through us. MOBI, PDF and EPUB versions are available. If you’d like, take a look at some sample pages from the PDF.

]]>http://lisbon.for91days.com/lisbon-travel-guide/feed/0http://lisbon.for91days.com/lisbon-travel-guide/Adeus, Lisboa!http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/For91Days/~3/2jgJf30zQ8M/
http://lisbon.for91days.com/adeus-lisboa/#respondSun, 06 May 2018 10:03:59 +0000http://lisbon.for91days.com/?p=4255Another 91 days has come to an end. Another chapter in our lives, another city explored, documented, and lived in. In many ways, Lisbon was exactly what we thought it would be. In other ways, it took us totally off guard. For all its beauty, this is a city which was surprisingly hard to warm up to. And yet, it was just as hard to resist. We were leaving with both joy and melancholy in our hearts. And this felt appropriate for Lisbon: a city which frustrates and fascinates in equal measure.

]]>Another 91 days has come to an end. Another chapter in our lives, another city explored, documented, and lived in. In many ways, Lisbon was exactly what we thought it would be. In other ways, it took us totally off guard. For all its beauty, this is a city which was surprisingly hard to warm up to. And yet, it was just as hard to resist. We were leaving with both joy and melancholy in our hearts. And this felt appropriate for Lisbon: a city which frustrates and fascinates in equal measure.

After six months in Vietnam, we had wanted something simpler, and a little closer to home. Lisbon seemed perfect, in both a cultural and a geographical sense. Portugal is Spain’s neighbor. The languages are similar. The city isn’t much bigger than our home town of Valencia. The food would be recognizable (at the very least, dog wouldn’t be on the menu), and we were superficially familiar with the history. We were certain: Lisbon was going to be a piece of cake.

But we were wrong. First off, there were the hills, turning every excursion into an exhausting workout. Worse, though, was the cold. We were visiting between November and February, and had assumed that the winter might be mild. But although there wasn’t any snow, and the outside temperatures weren’t crazy, we were freezing throughout our 91 days. It was a damp, Atlantic chill that went straight into our bones, and try as we might, we could only rarely warm up.

And then there were the people of Lisbon. As insane as it seems, this was one of the few places where we weren’t able to befriend a local. It’s not like we made a special effort, but usually this just happens naturally over the course of 91 days. Lisbon, however, seems to be done with foreigners. We’ve never encountered more anti-tourist sentiment, anywhere. I understand it. The city is under siege; entire neighborhoods have been given over to Airbnb, rents are shooting up, locals are being displaced, and it’s not hyperbolic to say that, in some quarters of the capital, an “authentic” Portuguese lifestyle is on the verge of extinction.

Also contributing to our negative experience was the simple fact that we had really bad luck. Our first apartment, which we had rented for the entire three months, was a basement hellhole infested with black mold. No sunlight, no windows we could open, and once we found fungus crawling across our clothes, we had to break our lease and leave. Then, our camera was stolen from our rental car in Sintra. Then, a hotel in which we were staying burnt down. Financially, the work projects which sustain our lifestyle went through a major and unexpected downswing. There seemed to be one piece of bad news after the other, and it was a miserable three months.

Despite all this, it would be impossible to say that we hated Lisbon. It seemed to happen that, whenever I was feeling really dejected, stomping back home with my head held low, a bit of sunlight would hit my face, and I’d look up. Before me, in all its glory, would be one of the most beautiful cities I’d ever seen, bathed in golden light. I’d take a moment, and remember the incredible museum we had seen earlier that day, or the charming neighborhood we had explored. Or a tram would rumble past me. Or I’d treat myself to a pastel de nata in my favorite cafe. Or I’d hear fado ringing out of a bar. In these moments, Lisbon seemed like a companion. I’d feel its arm on my shoulder, not so much consoling as commiserating. “It’s true. Life sucks,” it would whisper into my subconscious. “But take a look around. There’s always something to appreciate.”

As we were packing our bags and headed toward the airport, we were truly ready to leave, and excited to return to Valencia. But I have a feeling that, as the months wear on, we’ll start looking back on our time in Lisbon with more fondness. It’s an amazing city, and one in which we had a lot of memorable experiences. And who knows? It’s not far from home, and tickets are cheap, so it’s very possible we’ll be back someday soon. Lisbon might not be the easiest city in which to live, but there’s something special, and even seductive about it. And it’s always going to be able to draw us back.

]]>http://lisbon.for91days.com/adeus-lisboa/feed/0http://lisbon.for91days.com/adeus-lisboa/Our Favorite Lisbon Viewpointshttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/For91Days/~3/3WQatQBecSM/
http://lisbon.for91days.com/favorite-lisbon-viewpoints/#respondSat, 05 May 2018 16:13:14 +0000http://lisbon.for91days.com/?p=4171I don't know if we've ever visited a city with as many incredible viewpoints as Lisbon. Regardless of where you are in the city, the nearest scenic overlook is almost certainly nearby... and just as certainly worth the effort of checking out. We've already written about many miradouros in other articles, but thought we'd sum up the spots we visited, whenever we needed to be reminded of Lisbon's beauty.

]]>I don’t know if we’ve ever visited a city with as many incredible viewpoints as Lisbon. Regardless of where you are in the city, the nearest scenic overlook is almost certainly nearby… and just as certainly worth the effort of checking out. We’ve already written about many miradouros in other articles, but thought we’d sum up the spots we visited, whenever we needed to be reminded of Lisbon’s beauty.

Miradouro of Santa Justa

Our favorite view of Baixa is at the very top of the Santa Justa elevator. This is the only viewpoint on our list which you have to pay for, but the charge is minimal and worth every cent. Even if you haven’t taken the elevator up, it’s cool to have the chance to stand atop it, and we love the unique view over the city, especially as the sun is setting, illuminating the castle in a gorgeous golden light. [Location]

Miradouro do Recolhimento

We were delighted to discover this quiet miradouro squished between the touristic hubs of the Castelo do São Jorge and Alfama. While the hordes stream past just meters away, on their way to or from the castle, almost nobody notices the little path leading around a school, into a park with a wonderful view over the river, the port, and the neighborhood. [Location]

Miradouro de Santa Catarina

I don’t think we ever once referred to this by its real name. No, to us, the Miradouro de Santa Catarina was “Hippie Park”. In the evenings, a crazy bohemian vibe captures this zone, with bongo drummers providing the background music, and a multi-culti collection of Lisbon’s youngsters seated on every empty patch of concrete. Everyone’s drinking Super Bock out of one-liter bottles, and the smell of marijuana is heavy in the air. The view is alright, but really it’s the atmosphere which makes this miradouro special. [Location]

Miradouro do Jardim do Torel

One of our favorite secret spots in Lisbon was the Jardim do Torel. On paper, this should be a popular area, both with tourists and locals: great view, relatively central, and you can arrive there by taking Lisbon’s oldest funicular. But somehow, this park is almost always empty. Not that we mind! It just means we’ll be able to grab one of the loungey bench-chairs, complete with footrest, or get a view-facing table at the café. [Location]

Miradouro de Nossa Senhora do Monte

Without a doubt, this was the miradouro we most frequently visited. Not because it was the best (although it was), but because our apartment for our final two months in Lisbon was right down the road. It was a rare evening that we’d be content to remain inside, when two minutes away, we could watch the sun set over Lisbon. If you go to see just one miradouro during your time in the city, you’d do well to make it this one. [Location]

Cafe Garagem

This one isn’t really a viewpoint in the traditional sense, but we haven’t written about our favorite bar in Lisbon yet, and feel like it merits inclusion. High up on the castle hill is the Teatro Taborda. In the basement of the theater, the Café Garagem (Garage Cafe) has a fabulous set of bay windows offering a view towards the north, over Mouraria and out past Graça. Even after the sun sets, rendering it impossible to see out the windows, you’ll likely want to continue hanging out in this cool bar. [Location]

]]>http://lisbon.for91days.com/favorite-lisbon-viewpoints/feed/0http://lisbon.for91days.com/favorite-lisbon-viewpoints/The Beaches of Trafariahttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/For91Days/~3/QL1akrXeciA/
http://lisbon.for91days.com/beaches-trafaria/#respondFri, 04 May 2018 13:04:58 +0000http://lisbon.for91days.com/?p=4154We had been to MegaJesus and walked through the town of Cacilhas, but otherwise hadn't explored the area across the Tagus from Lisbon. So on one of our final days in Portugal, we took the ferry from Belém to Trafaria, to check out the town and its Atlantic-facing beaches.

]]>We had been to MegaJesus and walked through the town of Cacilhas, but otherwise hadn’t explored the area across the Tagus from Lisbon. So on one of our final days in Portugal, we took the ferry from Belém to Trafaria, to check out the town and its Atlantic-facing beaches.

The ferry across the river is short and cheap, and in no time we were sitting on a bus, taking us from Trafaria’s port to the Costa da Caparica, just a couple kilometers away. Our plan was to walk along the beach, back along the coast to Trafaria, where we’d get lunch and return home.

The beaches of the Costa da Caparica are beautiful; wide, wind-swept expanses of sand, protected from the mainland by small dunes. During summer weekends, this place must be extremely popular, considering how easy it is to reach from Lisbon. Today, though, we were sharing the beach with only a few people walking their dogs.

At the ramparts, closer to the Lisbon side of the peninsula, about a dozen guys were casting lines into the water, hoping to catch robalo (snook) and lubina (European bass). With the waves crashing up onto the rocks, soaking anyone who got too close, we didn’t stay long to watch them work.

The walk back into Trafaria was more adventurous than we had anticipated, because we passed through an impoverished mini-settlement of ramshackle houses… shacks, really, which looked as though they cost about €20 each to construct. Perhaps it had been naive, but we hadn’t realized that there were such ghettos this close to Lisbon.

Back in Trafaria, we were starving, and followed the crowds into Restaurante Piri Piri. Even though Trafaria is relatively small, this place was packed, mostly with locals. Of course, that’s a very good sign, and we weren’t shocked to discover that our meal was both cheap and delicious.

This was a perfect little day trip, and we were in great spirits when hopping back on the ferry to Lisbon. In summer, when you can actually get into the water, it’s probably better… but even in winter, Trafaria provides a nice escape from the big city. It’s just across the water, but feels much farther away.

]]>http://lisbon.for91days.com/beaches-trafaria/feed/0http://lisbon.for91days.com/beaches-trafaria/The National Palace of Queluzhttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/For91Days/~3/tI3YOIgMzw0/
http://lisbon.for91days.com/national-palace-queluz/#respondWed, 02 May 2018 19:34:18 +0000http://lisbon.for91days.com/?p=4122After having spent five days in Sintra, Jürgen and I had easily reached our palace quotient for the year... and it was still early January. But we couldn't possibly leave Lisbon without visiting the Palácio Nacional de Queluz, just fifteen kilometers outside the city.

]]>After having spent five days in Sintra, Jürgen and I had easily reached our palace quotient for the year… and it was still early January. But we couldn’t possibly leave Lisbon without visiting the Palácio Nacional de Queluz, just fifteen kilometers outside the city.

The National Palace of Queluz was built in 1747 by King Pedro III, who converted a former country estate into a magnificent summer residence for the royal court. Today, the palace is considered a landmark of 17th- and 18th-century fashions, having remarkably survived through the 1755 earthquake, the Napoleonic invasions, Portugal’s Liberal Wars and the country’s transition to a republic.

We arrived just as the gates were opening at nine in the morning: with its proximity to Lisbon, Queluz is a major touristic draw, and it pays to get here as early as possible. We were practically alone while exploring the palace, but by the time we left, the buses had started to arrive, and hundreds of people were wandering the grounds.

A tour of the palace takes about an hour, leading into a series of rooms which we were able to anticipate in advance, having become well-versed in Portuguese Palace Layouts during our time in Sintra. The Music Room, the Chapel, the Smoking Room, the Bedrooms, the Dressing Room, the Throne Room. Not that you can ever see enough throne rooms, of course, but eventually even the most fantastic of palaces start to resemble one another.

So my favorite rooms tend to be those which are unique. I’ll likely remember Queluz for its Don Quixote Room, which was the scene of both the birth of Dom Pedro IV, and his death. One of Portugal’s most consequential historical figures, Pedro left Europe as a child when the Royal Court went into exile. He became the first Emperor of an independent Brazil, and then returned to Lisbon to lead the liberal fight against his absolutist brother Miguel. He reigned as King of Portugal for a short while, before abdicating to his daughter, for the good of the country. The very fact that, after such a globe-trotting life, his last breath was in the same room as first, is beyond remarkable. And he was only 35!

(If you read Spanish, I can recommend an excellent historical novel about the life of Pedro IV, called “El Imperio Eres Tu”, by Javier Moro, which won Spain’s prestigious Premio Planeta. Sadly, it hasn’t yet been translated into English.)

The palace is great, but just as worthy of your attention, if not more so, are the gardens which surround it. The Palace’s Equestrian Library looks out onto the beautiful Hanging Gardens, which are populated with maze-like shrubs, fountains and classical sculptures by British artist John Cheere. There are paths which lead through an overgrown forest, taking you to the vegetable and botanical gardens, and then along a canal which was used by the royal family for boating excursions.

Until it moved to Belém, Queluz was the location of the Portuguese School of Equestrian Art, which explains both the library and the horse training arenas on the north side of the palace, as well as the 19th century stables. The grounds are still used occasionally for training, and you’re likely to see a couple of the strong Lusitanian horses being brushed or ridden.

Reaching Queluz from Lisbon is a piece of cake; trains depart frequently from Rossio Station, and need just 20 minutes to arrive in town. From the train station, it’s a one-kilometer walk to the palace. This is one of the easiest and best day trips you can make from the capital.

]]>http://lisbon.for91days.com/national-palace-queluz/feed/0http://lisbon.for91days.com/national-palace-queluz/Our Favorite Meals in Lisbonhttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/For91Days/~3/j3jko-Yolj0/
http://lisbon.for91days.com/favorite-meals-lisbon/#respondTue, 01 May 2018 16:40:03 +0000http://lisbon.for91days.com/?p=4032Over the course of our 91 days in Lisbon, we ate out a lot. Probably way too much, if our pudgy post-Lisbon profiles were anything to judge by. But when the restaurants are this cheap, the food this good, and the supermarkets this crappy (ahem, Pingo Doce), what are we supposed to do? Cook carrots at home? Or go to our favorite tasca and order the full-size portion of beef, and a soup, and ... I know we shouldn't, but that dessert looks too delicious to pass up.

]]>Over the course of our 91 days in Lisbon, we ate out a lot. Probably way too much, if our pudgy post-Lisbon profiles were anything to judge by. But when the restaurants are this cheap, the food this good, and the supermarkets this crappy (ahem, Pingo Doce), what are we supposed to do? Cook carrots at home? Or go to our favorite tasca and order the full-size portion of beef, and a soup, and … I know we shouldn’t, but that dessert looks too delicious to pass up.

Caldo Verde

The dish we ate more often than any other was caldo verde, or green soup. Not because it was the best, but because it was almost always on the menu, and generally costs about €1,50 per bowl. There doesn’t seem to be any rule about what can be thrown into this soup: we’ve seen carrots, potatoes, collard greens, garlic, onions and occasionally bits of ham floating around. Especially during the cold winter months, we always looked forward to our steaming bowl of green soup.

Bacalhao

The prevalence of codfish, or bacalhao, in the Portuguese diet is astonishing, considering that it isn’t found anywhere near the coasts of Portugal. Wikipedia claims that over 1000 Portuguese recipes involve cod. We’ve had it roasted and drizzled with hot garlic-infused oil, chopped and put into soup, and shredded and shaped into croquettes, and it was always delicious.

Cabidela

A soupy, dark brown rice dish with chicken, cabidela immediately became one of our favorites, after a waitress at a tasca in Belém made the suggestion. What makes this dish special is its tangy flavor, provided by a healthy amount of vinegar. The brown color comes from the fact that the chicken (or rabbit) is cooked in its own blood. Yum.

Francesinha

The legend of the ridiculous Francesinha is that a Portuguese traveler discovered the croque monsieur on a visit to Paris, but didn’t write down the ingredients. He returned home, and described the dish to his countrymen from memory, thus inventing the Francesinha: a sandwich which resembles a croque monsieur the way Frankenstein resembles a human. It’s made with bread, ham, steak, sausages and a diabolical amount of cheese, then covered in a red or brown tomato-based beer sauce. No two francesinhas are the same, as the sauces are often kept secret, but with such hearty ingredients, it’s guaranteed to be delicious. Though the dish originates in Porto, you can easily find it in Lisbon.

Bifana

Francesinhas were delicious, but not something we could eat every day. Luckily, Lisbon had another type of sandwich designed for more frequent consumption. Bifanas are simple sandwiches of pork slices, which have been cooked for hours (or days?) in big, steaming pots of broth. You can put mustard on them, if you choose, or just devour them without condiments. Cheap, quick, healthy and good. Well… actually, I’m not so sure about the “healthy” part.

Naco Na Pedra

Naco na pedra means steak on the stone, and a description of this meal can stop right there. They bring out an extremely hot stone with a massive cut of steak sizzling on top. You can cook the steak for as long or as little as you like, so if it’s overdone, you have nobody to blame but yourself. We ordered naco na pedra a few times, but most enjoyed it at Chiado’s Restaurante Cabaças, where the steaks are thick, the wine is cheap and the atmosphere is riotous.

Polvo

Our friend from Valencia was visiting, and gave me the strangest look when I ordered the octopus, or polvo. I was forgetting that polvo is Spanish for “dust”. “For me, the grilled dust, please. Yes, just the dust, I’m on a diet.” (While the languages are similar, it can be dangerous to forget that there are differences!) Octopus is a major player in Portuguese cuisine, and comes served in all manner of ways. We had great octopus salads, and soups. But my favorite is the classic: grilled and drizzled in oil.

Pudim Molotov

A towering white flan baked until golden on top, and served with caramel sauce, pudim molotov was our favorite dessert. The slices are massive in size, but because the flan is so fluffy, made purely of sugar and beaten egg whites, it’s surprisingly light and goes down easy. I’m not sure where the name comes from, but if someone wants to light one on fire, and throw it through my window, it’s a mess I will be happy to lick up.

Non-Portuguese Portuguese Meals

It’d be remiss to leave unmentioned Lisbon’s mouthwatering variety of foreign restaurants, not just “inspired by” the cuisines of far-off lands, but actually run by people from those lands. Portugal, of course, had a lot of overseas colonies, and it was natural that many people from abroad would emigrate to the capital, bringing their cultures with them. As a result, Lisbon enjoys a wonderfully multi-ethnic vibe, most deliciously appreciated in its cuisine. If you’ve never tried Angolan, Mozambican, Nepalese, or Goan food, Lisbon might just be the place to do so.

]]>http://lisbon.for91days.com/favorite-meals-lisbon/feed/0http://lisbon.for91days.com/favorite-meals-lisbon/At the End of Europe: The Cabo da Rocahttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/For91Days/~3/4fWyC4f9ou8/
http://lisbon.for91days.com/cabo-da-roca/#respondMon, 30 Apr 2018 15:12:39 +0000http://lisbon.for91days.com/?p=3974The westernmost point in continental Europe is the Cabo da Roca, part of the Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais. We bundled up and headed to the point, joining a horde of wind-whipped tourists, all of us drawn inexplicably to the continent's terminal edge.

The westernmost point in continental Europe is the Cabo da Roca, part of the Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais. We bundled up and headed to the point, joining a horde of wind-whipped tourists, all of us drawn inexplicably to the continent’s terminal edge.

It would have been disappointing had the “Westernmost Point in Continental Europe” turned out to be a soft, sandy beach sloping gently into the sea. No, this is the kind of symbolic location which demands the dramatic. And the Cabo da Roca delivers, with dizzying cliffs, crashing waves and a wildly undulating landscape.

Imagine being alive before the Age of Discovery, trekking out to the furthest most point of the land, and looking out over the water, totally unsure if there was some sort of edge out there at which the water falls off, or if those kooky scientists were right, and you could sail straight around to the other side. Today, we know that somewhere across that ocean is… New Jersey? Somehow, it’s still unbelievable.

There’s not a lot to do at the cape, besides stare out over the ocean in wonder, watching waves crash below and sea birds nest in the cliffs. But nearby, a number of paths cut through the shrubs and lead to other various lookout points.

It’s an amazing place, and at just about 20 kilometers from Sintra, it’s easy enough to reach if you have a car. On the way back, try one of the back routes through the Parque Nacional… we took the N247-3, past the Convento dos Capuchos, and really enjoyed the scenic drive.

]]>http://lisbon.for91days.com/cabo-da-roca/feed/0http://lisbon.for91days.com/cabo-da-roca/The Quinta da Regaleirahttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/For91Days/~3/UDG1GsCyk_A/
http://lisbon.for91days.com/quinta-regaleira-sintra/#respondSun, 29 Apr 2018 08:52:18 +0000http://lisbon.for91days.com/?p=3896The "Initiatic Well" that symbolizes the connection between Heaven and Earth? A maze of subterranean paths called the "Labyrinthic Grotto"? The "Portal of the Guardians" which hides an entrance into the underground? A garden meant to reflect the Cosmos and the unending human search for paradise on earth, with symbolic nods to mythology, alchemy, masonic rites and Dante's Inferno? Stop, Quinta da Regaleira, just stop! You had us at "initiatic".

The “Initiatic Well” that symbolizes the connection between Heaven and Earth? A maze of subterranean paths called the “Labyrinthic Grotto”? The “Portal of the Guardians” which hides an entrance into the underground? A garden meant to reflect the Cosmos and the unending human search for paradise on earth, with symbolic nods to mythology, alchemy, masonic rites and Dante’s Inferno? Stop, Quinta da Regaleira, just stop! You had us at “initiatic”.

From the moment we heard about the Quina da Regaleria, we were under its esoteric spell. The incredible garden which surrounds this palace is the work of Carvalho Monteiro, a bibliophile and graduate of law, who was born in Brazil and brought his fascination with spiritual mysteries to Portugal. From 1898 to 1912, Monteiro designed and executed his grand design in Sintra, with the help of Italian set designer Count Luigi Manini. The result is as wonderfully bizarre as it sounds.

The Quinta da Regaleira is within walking distance of Sintra, and we were not surprised to learn that it’s an extremely popular destination; probably second only to the Palácio da Pena. So we made sure to be at the gates when they opened. If there’s one thing we’ve learned in our years of travel, it’s that Initiatic Wells just aren’t the same with busloads of other tourists.

But, what exactly is an Initiatic Well? Found at the very back of the park, this is likely the Quinta da Regaleira’s most well-known feature: a tower which extends for 27 meters… not into the air, but into the ground. A large spiral staircase leads into the underworld, ending at a set of dark, subterranean paths which fork off toward a few other spots in the garden.

We chose one of the underground paths at random, and it was so pitch black that we had to employ our smartphones’ flashlights before we could make any progress. We ended up at the “Unfinished Well”, and then wandered further down the hill through the gardens. To us, it was simply a lovely green space, with towers, walls, artificial lakes and waterfalls, and statues of old gods, but it was clear that a deeper meaning was intended. I mean, check out this excerpt from the map they pass out at the entrance gate:

… “a symbolic garden where we can feel the Harmony of the Spheres and examine the perspective of an ascetic conscience, by analogy to the metaphysical quest for the Being that is found in the great Epics”.

The actual palace itself comes almost as an afterthought, although it is also of extraordinary craftsmanship. The style of this place is “Neo-Manueline”. We’d been introduced to the Manueline school of architecture at Belem’s Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, identifiable for its inclusion of nautical elements, such as ropes and armillary spheres. The Neo-Manueline style, then, was a way to pay tribute to this past, with richly decorative stonework outside, and woodwork within. This property was never owned by royalty, which might be why it’s referred to as a “Quinta” (or estate) rather than a palace.

Even if you’re only in Sintra for a short stay, the Quinta da Regaleira should be considered a must-see. We can definitely recommend showing up as early as possible; it just seems impossible for big groups to get moving too early in the morning, and in order to properly appreciate the mystical charms of the garden, you’ll want as much solitude as possible.

]]>http://lisbon.for91days.com/quinta-regaleira-sintra/feed/0http://lisbon.for91days.com/quinta-regaleira-sintra/Convento dos Capuchos: The Cork Conventhttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/For91Days/~3/LLNAucZjggY/
http://lisbon.for91days.com/convento-capuchos-sintra/#respondFri, 27 Apr 2018 14:52:02 +0000http://lisbon.for91days.com/?p=3862Hidden deep within the Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais, the Cork Convent, or Convento dos Capuchos dates from 1560. If you've ever wondered about the lifestyle of a 16th-century Franciscan mountain monk in Portugal, this is your big chance. And let's be honest, of course you have.

Hidden deep within the Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais, the Cork Convent, or Convento dos Capuchos dates from 1560. If you’ve ever wondered about the lifestyle of a 16th-century Franciscan mountain monk in Portugal, this is your big chance. And let’s be honest, of course you have.

The Cork Convent is so old, it’s almost become part of the landscape. Seriously, if we hadn’t paid entrance and followed a marked path to the door, we could have walked right by the place without noticing it. The structures are built into the side of the rock, and covered in vegetation, and even the doors are partially camouflaged, since they’re mostly made of cork.

The Convento dos Capuchos isn’t the easiest spot to reach in Sintra, and we found ourselves all alone in the complex, which helped us appreciate the sense of isolation the Franciscan friars must have experienced. I can’t imagine actually living here, but I suppose comfort was not high on the list of the monks’ requirements, when they were looking for a new home. “Floors: optional. Walls of bare exposed rock: fine. No heating, no problem. Just please no neighbors… at all!”

We wandered through the former quarters of the monks, from the choir to the infirmary, to the library — at least, this is how the map had labeled the rooms; it’s not like we’d have been able to tell the difference between these empty stone chambers. There was no mistaking, however, the dormitory, where the monks had individual cells with doors that were hilariously small. The idea was to encourage humility by forcing the monks to bow, but from this point on, I couldn’t stop imagining a brotherhood of midget monks. Ho ho ho, it’s off to pray they go!

The park surrounding the convent is also worth exploring, with a number of paths snaking through the woods, and leading to strange alcoves such as the Chapel of Crucifixion and the Hermitage of the Ecce Homo. You can also find a rock toward the top of the hill, from where there’s a nice view over Sintra, a few kilometers to the northeast.

]]>http://lisbon.for91days.com/convento-capuchos-sintra/feed/0http://lisbon.for91days.com/convento-capuchos-sintra/The Palace of Monserratehttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/For91Days/~3/02uTxp09ALM/
http://lisbon.for91days.com/palace-monserrate/#respondThu, 26 Apr 2018 15:51:18 +0000http://lisbon.for91days.com/?p=3836"Another day, another palace." This was our creed during our week-long stay in Sintra. Today, we'd be visiting the Palace of Monserrate, an eccentric estate constructed by a pair of wealthy Englishmen in the 18th and 19th centuries.

“Another day, another palace.” This was our creed during our week-long stay in Sintra. Today, we’d be visiting the Palace of Monserrate, an eccentric estate constructed by a pair of wealthy Englishmen in the 18th and 19th centuries.

This was originally the location of a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Monserrate, which was destroyed by the great 1755 earthquake. In 1790, Gerard de Visme bought the property and built a neo-Gothic mansion, which he soon leased to William Beckford, the famous British novelist, artist, and architect. Lord Byron visited in 1809 and, captivated by the romantic atmosphere of the estate, immortalized it in his poem Childe Harolde’s Pilgrimage.

Perhaps it was Lord Byron’s description which led Sir Francis Cook to purchase Monserrate in 1856, as a summer home. A wealthy textile industrialist, Cook set about building on top of the ruins of the neo-Gothic estate.

The result is fascinating, as the palace brings together a wide variety of influences from around the world. The narrow gallery, with its columns and overlapping arches, might easily be from the home of some Moroccan sultan. The entrance hall is octagonal in shape, and features pink marble columns and Gothic arches, maybe Italy? The library is all dark red wood, and is the most English-feeling room in the house. And the alabaster panels in the main hall come from India.

The international theme continues outside, in a beautiful garden connected to the palace by a long, grassy lawn (the first lawn ever planted in Portugal). There are trees from China, New Zealand and Australia, cypresses from the swamps of the Mississippi Valley, and small gardens dedicated to the plants of Mexico and Japan, along with a circular rose garden.

The palace isn’t nearly as big as that of Pena or Sintra, but with the gardens, I’d plan on two hours to visit Monserrate at a relaxed pace.