A foolproof way to make drumsticks ultra-tender

America's Test Kitchen via AP

Posted
Wednesday, May 8, 2019 6:00 am

By AMERICA'S TEST KITCHEN

With their built-in handles and small size, economical chicken drumsticks are tailor-made for a cookout. So we decided to devise a foolproof way to roast them on the grill to ultra-tender perfection with nicely browned skin and wonderfully juicy meat.

We usually don't brine fattier dark meat, but since we were roasting the drumsticks for a fairly long time in the grill's dry heat we brined them first in salt water to help them retain their juices as well as to season them. A light coating of spice rub also upped their flavor.

We set up a half-grill fire with two zones: On the cooler side, we roasted the drumsticks beyond their usual doneness temperature of 175 F to 190 F, at which point most of their connective tissue had turned into rich gelatin and their skin had rendered gently.

Indirect grilling is largely hands off, but halfway through roasting we rearranged the drumsticks, moving those closer to the heat to the outside and those on the outside closer to the heat to ensure all of the drumsticks were done at the same time.

We moved them to the hotter side until the skin was nicely charred and crisp, which took only 5 minutes. Before applying the spice rub, smooth the skin over the drumsticks so it is covering as much surface area as possible. This will help the skin render evenly and prevent the meat from drying out.

GRILL-ROASTED SPICE-RUBBED CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS

Servings: 6

Start to finish: 40 minutes plus 30-60 minutes brining

1/2 cup salt

5 pounds chicken drumsticks

1 recipe spice rub (recipes follow)

Dissolve salt in 2 quarts cold water in large container. Submerge drumsticks in brine, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

For a charcoal grill: Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.

For a gas grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high, and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature between 325 F and 350 F.)

Clean and oil cooking grate. Place drumsticks, skin side down, on cooler side of grill. Cover and cook for 25 minutes. Rearrange pieces so that drumsticks that were closest to edge are now closer to heat source and vice versa. Cover and cook until drumsticks register 185 F to 190 F, 20 to 30 minutes.

Move all drumsticks to hotter side of grill and cook, turning occasionally, until skin is nicely charred, about 5 minutes. Transfer to serving dish, and let rest for 10 minutes. Serve.

WOODROW JOHNSON
Woodrow Johnson, 86, husband of Hattie Brunson Johnson, departed this life on Thursday, May 23, 2019, at NHC Healthcare.
He was born on March 18, 1933, in Clarendon County, a son of the late Purdy …

WILLIE LEE MCCOY
Willie Lee McCoy, 69, departed this life on Tuesday, May 21, 2019, at Prisma Health Tuomey Hospital.He was born on Nov. 10, 1949, in Sumter County, a son of the late Jessie Mae McCoy. The family will …

HENRY MACK SINGLETARY
Henry Mack Singletary, 58, departed this earthly life on Saturday, May 18, 2019, at Prisma Health Richland Hospital, Columbia.
Born on June 11, 1960, in Lee County, he was a son of Mary Fortune Singletary and the late Henry George Singletary. His …