Hi David nice to know you are back in the workshop, been on statins about the same length of time, i dont seem to have any problems with them but ive heard of some who have. waiting now to see what you can do with Boris.

I believe, I became part of the drive to have everyone over 55, on statins. I was 70, at the time. My reading was 4.2, (and no problem). After 3 months, it was 3.6. "You've gained five years, extra life". After 3 years of pain, blamed on sciatica and old age. My son persuaded me to try without them. I wonder how many old people are feeling 20 years older, because of someone's bright idea.

Dave just because the doc says you need to take them you really don't have too its an option. I assume its for cholesterol in which case they are many proven alternatives to statins which IMO are the worst thing you can take. Glad your back at it though and look forward to more orphans being made new.Pete

Drilled through boss. Silver soldered in, a 12mm long extension. Then drilled to spigot depth, and tapped M5.

Rough cut end cap, in background Awaiting friction turning........

Silver soldered in, both end caps. Cleaned up.

That looks better! Even though, it will not be seen........

Next up.... Reducing the power cylinder bore. From 35mm to 29.5mm.

I used two more lengths of s/s exhaust pipe. They have very accurate and consistant, bores and o/d's. A couple of thou' removed, allowed two to be sleevelocked together.Topped to just below original bore size. Then bore opened out to 29.5mm.

Lots of time spent oscillating, to achieve a decent finish, and remove the 1 thou' taper.......

Looks ok, I think! The joint can just be seen, at 10 and 4 o'clock positions. close to the bore's chamfer.......

Very nice.What is friction turning?What abrasive you used to hone the displacer cylinder? SIC?Very educational to see your setups.Thank you much,

Pekka. Friction turning? ..... Machining a disc, (usually), trapped between two faces. Held together by pressure from a live centre, in the tailstock. Here's where I first started practicing. Straight onto the chuck jaws..... http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,566.0.htmlNow, I use a couple of pieces of plastic, around 30mm dia. The piece in the chuck is faced with h/duty insulation tape.

The wooden lap, is made from an offcut of curtain pole. (Brush handles are just as good). Turned to bore size -.002". Start off with coarse valve grinding paste. Plus a spot of oil. Progressing to fine, as things settle down.

Cheap rolling pins are also handy but dont let the big boss know and the broom shank in the garage is getting a wee bit short.For clock parts I also use MDF but it soon blunts youre tooling its also good for making spinning former's for a small run of parts.cheers

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Nice to see you getting back into the swingNot sure these engines will catch on though cheers marra

Heyup Frazer. Thanks mate! It certainly seems an uphill struggle! Why are so many of them, made wrong? Why do so many people spend so much precious time, making a doorstop. Just by altering the ratio??

Cheap rolling pins are also handy but dont let the big boss know and the broom shank in the garage is getting a wee bit short.For clock parts I also use MDF but it soon blunts youre tooling its also good for making spinning former's for a small run of parts.cheers

Hadn't thought of a nice chunky rolling pin! Good thinking! One of my backing pieces, is from a chopping board.......

]I can never understand it either . Is it the builder knows better and uses whats available not knowing that the ratio has to be near ishAlthough some well known designers have goofed in the past just look at ET Westburys version of the Robinson the ratio is badly wrong and he had not appreciated the rather unusual displacer and the cold well the full size one had and yet published drawings :doh:Thats why the one I started now resides under the bench with the spiders unless it finds a new homeAh well we live and learn although the older I become the less I knowJust had a good glass breaking day Good luck with her .Just love that conrod set up

cheers

« Last Edit: October 19, 2016, 02:54:15 PM by fcheslop »

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Oh I breaking test tubes again on the the Ridders Wiggers. Had everything nicely cut then picked up a bit of paper forgetting Id safely wrapped the hot cap in it they dont bounceBack to the drawing boardThat exhaust pipe you snaffled whats the OD as Im looking for some 1 7/8 for the orphan or may use a barby grill block.Hit lucky for once and found some heavy walled stainless seamless tubing for the Ryder so should get back on with it shortly and yep still blaming you cheers

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Thanks We have a runner.Just needs stripping/cleaning and getting rid of the oil in the glass dispacer May be simpler to make another with a blind hole.The tube is for the Ryders displacer.Good luck with the rebuild Il stop clogging up youre thread

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The two uprights, are made from 6mm thick angle iron. Cleaned up, square, on the mill. Dowelled and screwed in place, from underneath the base plate. Allowing removal, and accurate replacement, when necessary.....

The two, outer bearing housings, are a sliding fit, in the uprights. Held in place with slidelock........