In the region around Florence, a tall, lean, and heavy breed of cattle called Chianina is raised: a two-year-old might weigh 2,000 pounds. But it is the steer between 14 and 16 months old that is used for this famous Florentine steak. Because we Americans have both very good beef and a tradition of grilling steaks this famous preparation should be easily replicated. Itís all very simple, but you do need to start off with a fine cut of beef, so splurging for high quality beef in this recipe makes sense.

1. Prepare a hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill for 15 minutes on high.

2. Sprinkle the steak with salt and pepper and brush it lightly with olive oil. Carefully lay the steak on the gas grill or about 5 inches from a very hot charcoal fire. Do not move or touch the steaks for 10 minutes. Turn, using a grill spatula or tongs. Grill until one side has black grid marks, about another 10 minutes, and remove from the fire to a serving platter. Salt and pepper to taste and brush both sides with olive oil. Serve. This is the amount of time for a rare steak.

Small plates that are big on flavor are always in season at my house. This is another wonderful collection of Mediterranean recipes from Clifford Wright [Little Foods of the Mediterranean] that will send me into the kitchen with pleasure. Wright strikes just the right note between scholarly and sensual. - Joyce Goldstein, author of The Mediterranean Kitchen and Saffron Shores

My favorite [of the cookbooks reviewed] is Cucina Rapida, a delicious discovery for lovers of Italian food. Most of the recipes can be done in 30 minutes or less, and the flavors are forthright. Iíve cooked a lot from this book since it came out in early summer and have yet to be disappointed. The recipe for Linguine with Shrimp, Spinach, and Lemon is bright-tasting, a memorable supper that I will make again for my family or for casual entertaining. - Felicia Gressette, Akron Beacon Journal