In a few words... it smokes big time. I pulled the spark plugs and of course they're oily. Look down into the cylinders, and all have standing oil in them, all I see is a reflection! haha. Open up the coolant reservoir, and it is pure black, Looks like more oil than water in there.

Owner said there is a cracked head, so I'm guessing that is true. That evolves removing the timing chain and motor mount right? How is the best way to evacuate all traces of oil in the whole cooling system?

I mechanically inclined, I have installed engines before and done timing belts, etc etc.

thanks
David

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I'd be leary of that engine. It was probably overheated. The DOHCs don't crack heads or have head gasket problems easily. So, your problems may not be limited to the top end. Several members of this forum have had good experiences dealing with Clearwater Cylinder Heads Inc. for reman heads.

The timing chain is going to be harder than most timing belts but, if you can do a belt you know enough to do the chain. Do get a Chilton's or Haynes manual at least. There are some tricks. Get a chain set that includes the chain, all three sprockets, the guides and the tensioner. The head bolts are TTY (Torque To Yield) and should be replaced.

To clean out the cooling system.

Remove the thermostat.

Take the return hose loose from the top of the coolant reservoir and route to a bucket.

Get a bucket full of hot water mixed with automatic dishwashing detergent.

Start the car and keep pouring the detergent and water mixture in the reservoir until the out from the return hose runs clean.

Run clear water through to get the detergent out. Really you might want to do this with a coupled gallons of distilled water.

...There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action.

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Thanks! I pressure washed it with that in mind. I ended up rounding off one of the inside bolts on the TB cover. Luckily, I finally got it out.

Update: Did compression and leakdown test. Had valve cover off to make sure I had it on the power stroke for the leakdown. Cylinder 1 and 2 leak into each other. Somehow with air pressure applied to #3 I got air going into #1, I don't know how it "skips" #2. The rings aren't perfect, but I think they are okay.
And a significant amount of air comes out of the cooling system during the Leakdown test too.

I tore into it but got stuck...Something at the crankshaft is preventing me from removing the timing belt cover. The crank pulley is off of course, but the little key won't move, other engines I have done timing belt changes, the key came loose after removing the pulley. I think the washer with two flat sides is keeping it from coming off, what am I supposed to do? I can't seem to move that washer..

And yes I did remove the oil pan bolts! I would take a picture of the crank, but its dark now. Tomorrow.
David

Last edited by sensehumor; 01-30-2008 at 09:23 PM..

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That washer with two flat sides is the oilpump drive(installed in cover) serviced from the other side. the timing gear on crank probably needs pushed back in ,once the cover moves out a little.
You may need to pry down the lip of the oilpan ,and cut the sealer between front cover and oilpan,if you have removed the 4 oilpan bolts from the front.
It is a pretty tight fit ,since the crank turns the oilpump ect. a little wiggling goes a long way, freeing the cover. The key stays in crankshaft !

...Have A Great Day , it is YOUR choice !

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The RTV on the timing cover was still adhesive on the lower right and finally after a lot of wigging, I was able to pry it off. Yesss! Now I gotta release the chain tensioner. I am expecting to find the answer in the FAQ or search function, but can't find. How do I release it?

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The head is off. After a quick inspection, I saw #2 cylinder is black at a spot on the gasket and head. See picture. All exaust valves except #2's have deposits, #2 probably was cleaned via coolant. I called it a night--I'll clean the head and check for cracks tomorrow.

Back to the beginning... it smoked badly, it was gray smoke. It looked heavy and thick like cigarette smoke. If you started it and turned it off 10 seconds later, the smoke would lay low and linger for several minuets. When I drove it to my house, it pumped mass amounts of smoke. Though eventually after a half hour of driving, it was almost gone. Prior owner said it did this too.

When I pulled the plugs to inspect them, they were oily, but that may have been because it was from the outside of the combustion chamber, leaking from the valve cover. The oil may have fallen in when I screwed each plug out. Now the center porcelain part after the oil dried is the "proper" tan/rust colored on 3 of them. The other 1 has chunks of carbon and looks greasy and is black. I don't know which cylinder, because I mixed them up.

Also if that #2 was the one causing all that smoke, I would think it would be steam clean. Also water would be steam out of the exaust, disappearing quick. So this doesn't add up, I think something else is wrong. If it was the valve guides how would you tell? I know that old Chevy small block V8's have poor valve guides, and it is common to get a puff of blue smoke when starting up after not driving for a day or too.

Also compression numbers from yesterday: Over 300, 176, 195, 192. #1 would keep going off scale.

Air pressure test: I put the engine near the end power stroke for each cylinder. Put Funnel to ear to find where the air escapes. Then put 2 cap fulls of motor oil in and tried again. If it was quieter, and started up again in a minuet, it was the rings.
1: Rings, leak into #2
2: Rings, and coolant
3: Rings seal very good. But seem to seep air into #1. (doesn't make sense...) No change with oil inserted.
4: Rings

I know piston rings don't seal good by design, because of the gap. So that test doesn't necessary mean thier bad or good.

Last edited by sensehumor; 01-31-2008 at 10:04 PM..

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sensehumor be very careful with that head. DOHCs aren't known for cracking but, they aren't known for blowing head gaskets either and it sounds like you had some water getting into cylinder 2. You wouldn't be the first to be fooled by a cracked Saturn head.

300+ on cylinder 1??!! Were the valves ever opening???

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Ugh I deleted my response so now this is my second attempt at replying to today. I already wrote the following, but I accidentally closed the window.

I tried attaching a picture but that didn't work.. so I edited it, typed delete, and looked it up on the FAQ. I should ask the admin to delete that post.

Head bolts were all very tight. I broke 4 13mm sockets taking them out. One socket was Craftsman. Also when I was unbolting the timing cover, some of the bolts were over 100ftlbs, and I rounded one off, also the RTV job was messy, I think at least the timing cover has been removed before.

The Valve cover was leaking badly so I think it may have been oil that fell in. Also that one had the most carbon buildup. Though i am not sure that accounts for the 50% extra compression. When I drive the car to my house there was no pinging that I heard. All valves open.

Discovered #3 has wet exhaust post and header. Probably the one smoking.

All cylinders look great to me. Can still see the crosshatch marks clearly, no ridges at the tops. I should measure them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarnOwl

sensehumor be very careful with that head. DOHCs aren't known for cracking but, they aren't known for blowing head gaskets either

Yeah I am not putting it together until I know exactly why it smoked. Worse case scenario, I can get a used motor at a Salvage yard by me on their half price day. Would over filling the crankcase make it smoke? I bought it like that. It is level with the oil pan gasket, crank counterweights dipping. Shoot I should have test drove it with the oil regular level.

Wet exhaust port:

Lots of build up on the #1 exhaust valves:

Over filled oil to the oil pan gasket, see the reflection:

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I Google searched it and the general consensus is that dipping counter weights = smoke bomb exhaust. Also the smoke tends to be white, while the "trademark" oil burning color is blue. I wonder why that is? On diesels if that happens, their higher compression can burn oil mist as fuel, called "run away Diesel"

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Yeah I am not putting it together until I know exactly why it smoked. Worse case scenario, I can get a used motor at a Salvage yard by me on their half price day. Would over filling the crankcase make it smoke? I bought it like that. It is level with the oil pan gasket, crank counterweights dipping. Shoot I should have test drove it with the oil regular level.

Over filled oil to the oil pan gasket, see the reflection:

Either that photo got reversed when you posted it or your Saturn is from another planet. That dogbone is on the wrong side of the crank.

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Put it together just enough to run, started it and it ran great, no smoke. I shut it off in 5 seconds. Then I put the motor mounts, intake, belt, water, etc in. Then started it again and let warm to operating temperature. White smoke, again. I looks just like the cold winter morning vapor, only here in Phoenix it isn't very cold or humid. I think it is water. Looks like I'll redo the compression and leak down tests tomorrow. Also what if I remove the exaust manifold and idle it for a few seconds to see which cylinder(s) are doing this. Also might drain the water, to try to repeat the problem.

A search reveals an intake manifold can cause coolant leaks? Coolant runs through there? Also what about the warmed throttle body? Can that be bypassed, to eliminate that?

Will try to get pictures or video of it tomorrow, put online.

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Originally it looked similar to this car. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OV_QD_yFlo Now, mine disappears in about 2 car lengths from car. And it disappears *completely* unlike smoke, it is like steam from a tea kettle. Doesn't have much of a smell either.

Last edited by sensehumor; 02-05-2008 at 01:45 AM..

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