DIY: how to make your own (mini or jumbo) tablet sleeve

Commercial sleeves can be expensive, so we teach you how to make your own.

Tablets may still be new compared to other tech on the market, but even the "normals" have begun buying them en masse. Everyone seems to have something, whether it's an iPad, a Nexus 7, a Kindle Fire, or even a regular e-ink reader. And as many of us know, the commercial sleeves and cases for these gadgets can sometimes be quite expensive for what you get. But we all need to protect our devices somehow, so what are the alternatives?

Three years ago, I wrote a tutorial on sewing your own basic laptop sleeve that ended up being more popular than expected, so we thought we'd resurrect the idea, but tailored for modern tablets. The general gist of the instructions are the same, but since I'm targeting tablet and tablet-like devices this time around, I have updated photos, tips, and dimensions for the most popular tablets (in case you just don't trust your own measuring skills).

I'm using a sewing machine for this tutorial because it's fast and creates more consistent stitches. You may also want to use one for those same reasons (don't be scared, guys, it's machinery just like anything else), but if you don't have access to a machine, no need to worry. All you need to do is sew a straight stitch with a needle and thread—if you need some tips on how to do that, watch this YouTube video first.

What you need:

Half yard (or so) of outer sleeve fabric

Half yard of lining fabric

Thread (any color you want)

Your tablet's measurements

Optional:

Sew-on or glue/iron-on velcro, or a button

For this tutorial, I'm using an original Kindle Fire (didn't you hear? Small tablets are all the rage now). But you can adjust your measurements to match whatever mini tablet—or jumbo-sized tablet—you own. Check the list below for the dimensions of some of the most common tablet-like devices, and then: onward! (If I didn't list your tablet, you can usually look on the manufacturer's product page for information, or just search for it on Google/Bing.)

iPad mini: 7.87" x 5.3" x 0.28"

iPad: 9.5" x 7.31" x 0.37"

Kindle Fire: 7.44" x 4.72" x 0.45"

Kindle Fire HD 8.9": 9.45" x 6.5" x 0.35"

Nexus 7: 7.81" x 4.72" x 0.41"

Galaxy Tab 10.1: 10.11" x 6.9" x 0.34"

Just a few tips for fabric selection: choose whatever you like, but you may want to make sure the lining fabric is nice and soft (it's what will be rubbing up against your fancy new tablet, after all). Some people like to use pre-quilted fabric (that you can find at many basic fabric stores, like JoAnn's) to add a little padding to either the outer fabric or the lining. This should be no problem, but keep in mind that the thicker you go, the more difficult it may be later on when it comes to turning things right-side-out.

Get to cutting

Make sure you have the length, width, and thickness measurements of your device ready. Take the thickness and split it in half, and then add that number to both the length and width of the rectangle. So, for example, if your tablet is 7.44" x 4.72" x 0.45", your rectangle measurements are now (roughly) 7.67" x 4.95".

From here, add on a half inch to every side—this is called your "seam allowance," because it allows you to sew around the edges with a little bit of wiggle room. Now, my measurements are about 8.17" x 5.45". If you're like me, you may not have the patience or eyesight to measure fabric down to the hundredth of an inch, so you can round up or down as you see fit—I'm rounding these measurements to 8.25" x 5.5". If you like it a little more snug, round down, but I'll tell you from experience that it'll probably work out better if you err on the larger side (particularly in length). Nothing is more infuriating than spending a couple hours of work, only to find out that you made your sleeve too small.

The fabric I've cut for my Kindle Fire sleeve. Left is the outer fabric and right is the lining.

Now it's time to cut: cut rectangles from both your outer fabric and the lining you plan to use. Make sure to cut two of each (fold over your fabric before you cut it, so you only have to cut once). In this tutorial, I'll refer to the "good" side as the "right side" and the inner/ugly side of the fabric as the "wrong side." This applies to both the outer and lining fabrics.

Sewing time

Now, pin together the edges of your two outer rectangles together with right sides facing each other, leaving the top open. Do the same thing (separately) with your lining fabric, but leave a couple-inch gap at the bottom. This is for turning everything right side out later on.

Now** it's time to sew! Whether you're using a machine or sewing by hand, sew around the edges of both your outer and lining fabrics about a half-inch in from the edge, leaving the tops open. (Don't forget to leave the gap open in the bottom of your lining fabric.)

(** If you want to do the optional flap, don't sew just yet—skip to the flap section below before moving forward.)

Turn the lining fabric right side out and position it inside the outer fabric, which is still right side in. Basically, the right sides of both your outer and lining fabric will be facing each other, with the wrong sides both facing out.

Make sure the top edges are lined up and pin them together all the way around. Then sew the top edges of the outer fabric to the lining around the top, again a half-inch from the edge.

Now you have a sleeve that's completely wrong-side-out. Congratulations! Just kidding: now it's time to make things right in the world and turn it right-side-out. Remember that hole you left in the bottom of the lining fabric? Reach in and begin pulling your outer fabric through the hole until the whole thing comes through and the lining turns right side out as well. Then tuck the lining inside of the outer fabric.

Pull the outer fabric through the hole you left in the lining until the whole thing gets turned right-side-out.

This is what it will look like after you turn it all right-side-out. Then, tuck the lining (for me, the pink part) inside of the outer fabric.

Get out the iron—yes, you probably have one of those lurking around somewhere, too—and press your sleeve flat so it looks nice and crisp.

Ironing is fun for one and all.

Once you press your sleeve, it will look almost done!

Don't forget the details

You didn't think you were done yet, did you? You still have to sew up that hole in the lining and do a few other finishing touches. Let's start with the hole in the lining, which you'll be sewing by hand using what's called a "slip stitch." To do this, you'll be sewing the two sides together from the right side, but without the thread showing when you're finished—check out this video for some tips on how to do a slip stitch, although it's not exactly how I do it.

Since you're not hemming some pants or something along those lines, you can grab more than a few threads (like that person is doing in the video) when sewing the two sides together. Make sure your stitches are close enough together so that there's not much of a gap between each stitch, and do this across the length of the hole.

Slip stitch the hole you left in the lining.

I also like to stitch the upper edge of the sleeve so that the lining is more securely in place. To do this, you'll be sewing a visible line around the top of your sleeve, and some people like to do a double top stitch for decorative purposes. If you have a machine with special stitches, you could even use those for decoration, but be careful for knotted threads since you'll be sewing through several layers of fabric.

This is called a top stitch. I like to do a double top stitch because why not?

If you're not doing the optional flap, you're pretty much done!

Optional flap

Perhaps you don't want your sleeve to be open-ended, lest your tablet slip out in your bag. You can create a strap that will keep your stuff securely inside, or even make a full-length flap to cover the whole opening if your heart desires. If you want to add either of those things, do this before you sew the outer fabric and the lining together.

Don't forget to turn this right-side-out before sewing it into the rest of the sleeve, like I did the first time I ran through this tutorial. Whoops.

I'm going with the fastening strap for this tutorial. Cut two identical rectangles about 3.5 inches wide and roughly 6 inches long—experiment to get the best shape and size. Put the pieces right sides together and sew around three of the edges, leaving one of the short ends open. Turn the flap right side out and press/iron. You can also top stitch the outer edges if you'd like.

Wedge the flap facing inward in between the outer fabric and the lining, with the raw edge just sticking out the top so you can see it. Pin it so it stays secure, and then sew around the top edge of the entire thing as instructed in the sewing section earlier. After turning your sleeve right side out, your strap/flap will be sticking out one of the sides at the top.

Now's the time to sew or glue your velcro or a button. If you're using velcro, you need to attach each side to the strap and where it will attach on the other side of the sleeve. If you're doing a button (like I am here), choose where the button is going to go on the sleeve, and stitch around where the hole will be on your strap. Then cut through the center of the button hole.

The finished product, sans tablet inside.

Voilà! You've made your own tablet sleeve. You can apply this to any device, of course, including cameras, laptops, smartphones, and more. But if you're about to own a new iPad mini, or you just bought a Kindle Fire HD, you may want to put your sewing skills to the test, and maybe you can even impress your family members by making sleeves for them over the hoilidays.

43 Reader Comments

I was looking at getting a member of my family a tablet for Christmas and the extra ~$35 for a OEM case just seems ludicrous at 10-15% of the cost of the tablet. This should be even better, it has a higher care/time spent factor

Reading this almost makes me wanna go out and get a tablet, just to have an excuse to spend my time sewing a sleeve. I still have a sack full of thick, beige leather and an assortment of black cloth of various kinds...

The world has changed: 6 years ago we had Stokes talking CPU instructions, today we have Jacqui talking sewing covers for our tablets.

Polymaths, or at the very least people with a wide range of varying interests are far more interesting and stimulating than people who focus on just one topic. Same goes for this site. It would be very dull indeed if we are never exposed to different and new things.

My wife is a huge knitter. When the cheapie plastic case for my iPhone fell apart, she looked at it for a second, said "hang on..." and disappeared into her crafting dungeon. She emerged like 20 minutes later with a perfectly-fitted knit iPhone "sock." And I dare say, it's adorable. She even used some fancy lattice stitch that gave it a natural elasticity so it hugs the phone tight.

People are constantly asking me where I got it when I take it out at the store or wherever. She's also knit cozies for our iPads, our coffee press, etc. Anything that needs protection or insulation, electronic or not, she's yarn-bombed it.

All of the geekiest, nerdiest people I know are big into crafts, whether it be sewing, knitting, crochet, wood crafts, etc. men and women alike. I like this development! We're all becoming so gosh darn well-rounded.

Now how would you go about making a protective cover that has a thin sheet of plastic inside the material to actually protect the device from the odd impact that is going to happen?

This is where the quilted fabric she mentioned would come in. If you don't want to use or can't find pre-quilted fabric, using quilt batting would be the best best thing, IMO. That's the stuff that provides the smooshiness in quilt between the two layers of fabric that make it up. Plastic provides some protection against wetness--what you really want for impact protection is cushion. Quilt batting comes in varying thicknesses--you can usually buy it in small rolls although it's possible to find some by the yard (just ask in the store).

Probably the easiest way to go about it (for me) is to baste (sew with a loose stitch) a piece of quilt batting of the same size to the wrong side of each of your lining pieces, closer to the edge than your regulard seam allowance, and then treat the batting side as the "wrong side" from here on out. When you get done the batting will be on the inside of the sleeve, under the lining (and it all gets stitched together) with the lining and the outside so it's secure). Jacqui may have some better ideas, as she's a much better seamstress, but that's how I'd do it.

I wouldn't go too thick with the batting because the thicker you go the more challenging it's going to be to smoosh it all in your sewing machine, if you're a beginner. There's some wool felty stuff I like that would be nice.

Now how would you go about making a protective cover that has a thin sheet of plastic inside the material to actually protect the device from the odd impact that is going to happen?

This is where the quilted fabric she mentioned would come in. If you don't want to use or can't find pre-quilted fabric, using quilt batting would be the best best thing, IMO. That's the stuff that provides the smooshiness in quilt between the two layers of fabric that make it up. Plastic provides some protection against wetness--what you really want for impact protection is cushion. Quilt batting comes in varying thicknesses--you can usually buy it in small rolls although it's possible to find some by the yard (just ask in the store).

Probably the easiest way to go about it (for me) is to baste (sew with a loose stitch) a piece of quilt batting of the same size to the wrong side of each of your lining pieces, closer to the edge than your regulard seam allowance, and then treat the batting side as the "wrong side" from here on out. When you get done the batting will be on the inside of the sleeve, under the lining (and it all gets stitched together) with the lining and the outside so it's secure). Jacqui may have some better ideas, as she's a much better seamstress, but that's how I'd do it.

I wouldn't go too thick with the batting because the thicker you go the more challenging it's going to be to smoosh it all in your sewing machine, if you're a beginner. There's some wool felty stuff I like that would be nice.

You could use polyester fiber instead of wool. Also, cotton is great, just remember to get the one that is loose and cotton-candy like.

ALSO, go to one of those cheapo thrift stores and buy used camo pants, cut a piece of a leg and re-stitch it for a camo tablet sleeve.

Now how would you go about making a protective cover that has a thin sheet of plastic inside the material to actually protect the device from the odd impact that is going to happen?

This is where the quilted fabric she mentioned would come in. If you don't want to use or can't find pre-quilted fabric, using quilt batting would be the best best thing, IMO. That's the stuff that provides the smooshiness in quilt between the two layers of fabric that make it up. Plastic provides some protection against wetness--what you really want for impact protection is cushion. Quilt batting comes in varying thicknesses--you can usually buy it in small rolls although it's possible to find some by the yard (just ask in the store).

Probably the easiest way to go about it (for me) is to baste (sew with a loose stitch) a piece of quilt batting of the same size to the wrong side of each of your lining pieces, closer to the edge than your regulard seam allowance, and then treat the batting side as the "wrong side" from here on out. When you get done the batting will be on the inside of the sleeve, under the lining (and it all gets stitched together) with the lining and the outside so it's secure). Jacqui may have some better ideas, as she's a much better seamstress, but that's how I'd do it.

I wouldn't go too thick with the batting because the thicker you go the more challenging it's going to be to smoosh it all in your sewing machine, if you're a beginner. There's some wool felty stuff I like that would be nice.

I can't plus this enough. Contrary to what some would say, I think articles and comments like these are Ars at its best.

The world has changed: 6 years ago we had Stokes talking CPU instructions, today we have Jacqui talking sewing covers for our tablets.

Have you ever really looked at a sewing machine. The mechanism that runs inside of it is flat out amazing. With the door open it's very cool to see how everything works together. How someone figure out how to make everything work together to do something that is a PITA to do by hand is really cool.

Could you please use SI units in your ars articles? It's like a slap in the face for a reader not from the US - the whole rest of the world uses SI units aka the the metric system. It's one thing to talk about a 10" tablet but another to get a tutorial with measurements in an obscure system.

Could you please use SI units in your ars articles? It's like a slap in the face for a reader not from the US - the whole rest of the world uses SI units aka the the metric system. It's one thing to talk about a 10" tablet but another to get a tutorial with measurements in an obscure system.

Not sure if serious...

You do know that Ars is a US publication right? I'd be annoyed at reading a DIY article with metric units. Science articles might be one thing. DIY is something else.

Could you please use SI units in your ars articles? It's like a slap in the face for a reader not from the US - the whole rest of the world uses SI units aka the the metric system. It's one thing to talk about a 10" tablet but another to get a tutorial with measurements in an obscure system.

Could you please use SI units in your ars articles? It's like a slap in the face for a reader not from the US - the whole rest of the world uses SI units aka the the metric system. It's one thing to talk about a 10" tablet but another to get a tutorial with measurements in an obscure system.

Not sure if serious...

You do know that Ars is a US publication right? I'd be annoyed at reading a DIY article with metric units. Science articles might be one thing. DIY is something else.

It's also a techie publication. There'd be no harm in providing both units in the article (and bonus points if El Reg units were included as well; what would those measurements be in Walses?).

That button is a screen killer. From a gadget-protection standpoint, putting a rigid object dead center on the screen seems like a bad plan. Think about the shape of that button: flat disk with a small point under it that gets threaded. It's basically a punch tool.

Soft attachments, or al least flat ones seems like a better plan for an object intended to reduce risk.

Having your tablet/iPhone/anyPhone sleeves made from your wives or girlfriends is a so different feeling than having a tablet sleeve made by Ms Jacqui Cheng at Arstechnica.

"Hey It's made by Jacqui Cheng, dude. No kidding. dude.. Look, it got her name on it too.."

Yo Jacqui have you ever considered setting up a new home business selling this kind of stuffs to all the Arsians for a few bucks for your times and at the same time having the most fun of it? Just having to know a few million of Arsians and friends carrying your tablet sleeves around town that's a thrill for anyone's mind. Right? No, for you it's not for the money of course. The hell with these few bucks. It's something from Jacqui that counts the most. Hey don't forget it's very important to have your name on the sleeves "Made by Jacqui Cheng" trade mark on it if you ever decided to get this going. I would if I were you. Ars wouldn't have a problem with it?

Did I say "a few million"? Damn right I did. Word of mouth is a very powerful and free advertising.

How many of you want a custom made tablet sleeve from me - Evolution? You see, I don't see not one single damn hand. You know why? Because I am not Jacqui Cheng. That's why. :-)

- "don't be scared, guys, it's machinery just like anything else"How true. As a tool geek, I'm surprised more of us guys don't use sewing machines. Unbelievably useful devices. Especially for repairing a favorite item of clothing (hate clothes shopping), or customizing something that's nearly perfect, as in a rock climbing pack that just needs two more inside pockets.Have to say the button makes me nervous too, but the fastening strap would pad it somewhat when buttoned. Personally, I'd stick with velcro ;-).For liquids, other decent choices include some of the coated Cordura fabrics, such as ballistic cloth or ripstop nylon: attractive, water resistant, abrasion resistant, etc.And speaking of details, don't forget to pull out ALL of the pins before you turn it right-side out.

Nice to see this article in Ars; makes me want to fire up my ancient Viking....

Could you please use SI units in your ars articles? It's like a slap in the face for a reader not from the US - the whole rest of the world uses SI units aka the the metric system. It's one thing to talk about a 10" tablet but another to get a tutorial with measurements in an obscure system.

Not sure if serious...

You do know that Ars is a US publication right? I'd be annoyed at reading a DIY article with metric units. Science articles might be one thing. DIY is something else.

It's also a techie publication. There'd be no harm in providing both units in the article (and bonus points if El Reg units were included as well; what would those measurements be in Walses?).

Including both units would be a nice way of acknowledging international readers (there's dozens of us!), the internet being a global community and all.

That button is a screen killer. From a gadget-protection standpoint, putting a rigid object dead center on the screen seems like a bad plan. Think about the shape of that button: flat disk with a small point under it that gets threaded. It's basically a punch tool.

Soft attachments, or al least flat ones seems like a better plan for an object intended to reduce risk.

Having your tablet/iPhone/anyPhone sleeves made from your wives or girlfriends is a so different feeling than having a tablet sleeve made by Ms Jacqui Cheng at Arstechnica.

"Hey It's made by Jacqui Cheng, dude. No kidding. dude.. Look, it got her name on it too.."

Yo Jacqui have you ever considered setting up a new home business selling this kind of stuffs to all the Arsians for a few bucks for your times and at the same time having the most fun of it? Just having to know a few million of Arsians and friends carrying your tablet sleeves around town that's a thrill for anyone's mind. Right? No, for you it's not for the money of course. The hell with these few bucks. It's something from Jacqui that counts the most. Hey don't forget it's very important to have your name on the sleeves "Made by Jacqui Cheng" trade mark on it if you ever decided to get this going. I would if I were you. Ars wouldn't have a problem with it?

Did I say "a few million"? Damn right I did. Word of mouth is a very powerful and free advertising.

How many of you want a custom made tablet sleeve from me - Evolution? You see, I don't see not one single damn hand. You know why? Because I am not Jacqui Cheng. That's why. :-)

Totally agree -- I would LOVE to have a "Jacqui Cheng"-brand sleeve for my new iPad mini... pls let me know if you plan to offer this service. And the glasses fabric w/pink liner is perfect.

Now how would you go about making a protective cover that has a thin sheet of plastic inside the material to actually protect the device from the odd impact that is going to happen?

This is where the quilted fabric she mentioned would come in.

For eInk screens, this won't work. I've trashed two ereaders in plush-but-bendable neoprene sleeves. Car keys + eInk = expensive puncture wound. Looking at those fails, I think a light but rigid plastic card would have been enough to save them. Something along the lines of a plastic 3-ring binder cover, slightly smaller than the sleeve, could slide in between the outer and inner layers, with room left for stitching shut around the outside.

A sleeve is obviously not good for much more than preventing scratches.If you want protection from impact, you need a layer that adds sturdiness and one to distribute force over an area to keep the pressure low. This means you will increase size and weight, though.

I've made myself such a thing, initially for a 14" 16:10 laptop, but it also fits for 12" at 4:3. I used high density fiberboard as the frame, cushioned it with foam on the inside under the black lamb's wool and used thick beige leather (thought for seats) on the outside.The HDF is pretty rigid and spreads any force out over the area. The foam dampens impacts. As the leather is glued over the entire area and sewed tightly at the edges, it immensely adds to the stability and it also acts as a protection against anything pointy for the HDF.

Since I have this thing, I have never worried again when someone pushed against my backpack in a crowded subway train or accidentally kicked it. You'd need to use a hammer and have a good punch to cause any damage. It's also proven useful to transport harddrives The downside is, that it adds nearly a centimeter in every dimension and weighs nearly two pounds on its own. After 3 years it also looks a bit shoddy on the outside...

For a tablet I'd use less foam, as the surface (no pun intended) is usually flat and even, there's no spinning drive and a limit in volume beyond which it seems inadequate. I'd try to source two sheets of very rigid plastic and glue a dense foam of 1-2mm on them for the inner side. Using thick leather to connect the two sheets and having some millimeters of air inside should be enough to protect tablet inside rather well, as those things are usually pretty flat.