I have an HLN617w1x. About a month ago the tv stopped showing any picture. I replaced the lamp (which had no effect) and then the color wheel. Changing the wheel worked (I declared victory) but it would take about 3-4 minutes for the picture to start up. After about 3 weeks the TV stopped displaying the picture again. Had the tv techs out here and they said it was the power board. Today they changed the power board and showed me that they could get the lamp generating some light and now claim that it is the DMD board.

So here I am. About $300 into this and trying to figure out if my technicians know what they are saying/doing and if it is the DMD board.

Anyone who has the white dot issue expect to be screwed over. They told me that they will no longer cover the cost of labour to fix this issue. An issue that THEY KNOW ABOUT. This isnt a warranty issue, this is a faulty manufacturing issue. Samsung is horrible for its customer service. Will never buy from them again and I will be making damn sure everyone else knows how I feel. Just idiotic policy.

I guess no one has ever reported a problem...Samsung blows. I guess i should expect a TV to last only 2 years, due to wear and tear, all that sitting in one place really wears it out.

Wow, that Samsung response you got was laughable.

Unfortunately the fact is that *technically* they did nothing wrong to cause this issue on their end and are simply covering themselves.

Original TI (Texas Instruments) engineering documents basically specify the following: that a thermal pad between the DMD heat spreader and heat sink is sufficient enough to cool the chip. Nowhere have I seen any -official- recommendation to substitute the pad with thermal compound.

Those of us who are aware about the cause of the stuck pixel issue (accumulated heat damage) know better and replace the thermal pad with a quality thermal compound.

The reason why I find Samsung's "normal wear and tear" statement down right hilarious is because the typical rated life of a DMD is literally 100,000 hours. Yes..one hundred thousand hours.

Let's do some simple math here:

There are exactly 8,765.81277 hours in a year. Theoretically..even if your TV was left on 24/7 straight, the DMD should last almost 11 1/2 years. Approx 23 years if the TV is operated in 12 hour cycles.

Anyone have the manuals for the HLS5086WX/XAA. I emailed Samsung when my white/black dots appeared and they agreed to send me the DLP chip free, and I think I can do it myself, but I would like to get a hold of the directions/manual if anyone has them.

I am joining the white dots of death club. My HLS5687WX/XAA started showing 1 white dot right before Christmas, and now I'm up to 10-12. The TV is only 4-1/2 years old. I've been fighting with Samsung for over a week (went out of town before Christmas for a couple weeks and waited until I got back home to call Samsung...that may have been a mistake), and have gotten nowhere. I escalated as high as I could with "Customer Service" (and the ECR dept), and was told the same thing every time: your model is not on the approved list, which has been found to have slightly higher-than-normal failure rates, so we can't cover any parts or labor.

Thanks to this forum, I can assume the problem is the DMD (DLP) Chip. Since the picture is getting almost unbearable, and a new TV would cost ~$1500, I've decided to go the "I'll fix it myself" route. I ordered the chip and service manual from Samsungparts.com for just under $300 today. Note for people who are considering buying the chip and fixing it themselves: I strongly suggest you call first and make sure you get the right part. They found 2 chips for my model #, so they had to use my serial # to figure out which one is the right chip for my specific TV. I'll post an update after I attempt the install.

If anyone has this same model # and has done a DMD Chip replacement, or has had luck getting Samsung to cover it, I'd sure appreciate any help or advice.

I have the white dot problem with an HLS5687WX/XAA too. I ordered the chip from Samsungparts but don't have a tracking number yet. I noticed two DLP chips popped up too, but in the small print only one of them had the model number listed. I ordered: 4719-001969, hope that's the right one. I'll be replacing the lamp and ballast too. I ordered the CD version of the service manual, I can split it with others if they are so inclined. Will let folks know how it goes...

I have the white dot problem with an HLS5687WX/XAA too. I ordered the chip from Samsungparts but don't have a tracking number yet. I noticed two DLP chips popped up too, but in the small print only one of them had the model number listed. I ordered: 4719-001969, hope that's the right one. I'll be replacing the lamp and ballast too. I ordered the CD version of the service manual, I can split it with others if they are so inclined. Will let folks know how it goes...

They told me 4719-001997 or 4719-001985 is the correct chip for our model. The one with the pins, not the dots. You may want to double check yours. Let me know how the repair goes. btw, I've been waiting a week and still don't have a tracking number...

Well, it appears that Samsung won't be sending me the chip for free. They will send it only to an authorized repair center and I'll have to pay for the service. I asked the service center if they would give me the chip and let me install it, but they won't.

I even spoke to the President's office of consumer affairs and it's all the same rhetoric - they will pay for the chip, but I have to pay for the install. I'm going the NJ AG's office route and file a complaint. This is a bad design, they know it, and because they agree to pay for the part - that's an acknowledgement of their bad design - and I shouldn't have to pay for that!

Hmm, that's not good. I had the light engine changout about a year after purchase b/c of the collapsing light tunnel issue. I have no idea if they changed the DLP section or not. I have PF01 on the outside frame, which by the encompass website would suggest I need a 4719-001997. Damn.
barefootphoenix, if you have a chance can you grab your PCB model number? Mine is BP94-02269C

I'm in the HL-S5687WX/XAA boat, as well. TV had well over 10.5K operational hours on it, before I got my first dead mirror. Within 2 weeks, I had well over 150 dead mirrors.

I pulled the part numbers off the DMD board and the DLP chip, itself. The board is a BP94-02269C. The chip is a 1910-6103W. I ordered the board first, not knowing that the chip wasn't a part of it. No on-line dealers had a picture of the exact board, so I couldn't confirm. So, back to the chip; the replacement chip is a 1910-6143W, catalog # 4719-001997, DLP chip with Pins on rear. If you look up that chip, it's not listed as being used in the HL-S series, but in the HL-T series of our sets. This leads me to believe that at some point, there was an upgrade made to the 6103 and it went into the Thin Line sets.

So I placed an order with samsungparts.com, because they listed the part as "in stock". Several days went by and I didn't hear anything, so I sent them an email. Turns out the part is on a nation-wide backorder. Why they didn't feel it necessary to inform people of that, is beyond me. I ended up going through an ebay dealer (with outstanding feedback) and paid a comparable price. The chip should be here before the weekend. I'm thinking of keeping the DMD board, because I have a feeling it's only a matter of time before it fails, as well.

Anyway, is there a guide as how to adjust the alignment after reassembly? All the links from the beginning of this thread are long dead (I jumped from page 8, to the end, just to see if there were still new posts being made). Since I didn't have a disassembly guide, handy, I took out all the screws that I thought were holding the DMD assembly to the chasis, and those included the supposed alignment screws.

Problem sorta out. For PF01 model's I did in fact order the wrong chip. Shipping estimate is 4-6wks due to back order. Ouch.

It might be better for you that the part it backordered. You should be able to cancel your order if it hasn't shipped yet. Same thing happened to my order (at samsungparts.com)...I placed the order about a week ago when it was supposedly "in stock", hadn't heard anything for a week, called to ask where my stuff was and found out my order had been cancelled due to "nationwide backorder". Nice of them to tell me.

So I ended up buying the part from encompassparts.com today for just a tad bit more than what samsungparts.com was charging. I already got a shipping confirmation! I did still have to buy the service manual from samsungparts, but I also got a shipping confirmation for that today too. Hopefully the chip and SM will arrive close to the same time. I'm getting really tired of these continually multiplying white dots.

I'm in the HL-S5687WX/XAA boat, as well. TV had well over 10.5K operational hours on it, before I got my first dead mirror. Within 2 weeks, I had well over 150 dead mirrors.

I pulled the part numbers off the DMD board and the DLP chip, itself. The board is a BP94-02269C. The chip is a 1910-6103W. I ordered the board first, not knowing that the chip wasn't a part of it. No on-line dealers had a picture of the exact board, so I couldn't confirm. So, back to the chip; the replacement chip is a 1910-6143W, catalog # 4719-001997, DLP chip with Pins on rear. If you look up that chip, it's not listed as being used in the HL-S series, but in the HL-T series of our sets. This leads me to believe that at some point, there was an upgrade made to the 6103 and it went into the Thin Line sets.

So I placed an order with samsungparts.com, because they listed the part as "in stock". Several days went by and I didn't hear anything, so I sent them an email. Turns out the part is on a nation-wide backorder. Why they didn't feel it necessary to inform people of that, is beyond me. I ended up going through an ebay dealer (with outstanding feedback) and paid a comparable price. The chip should be here before the weekend. I'm thinking of keeping the DMD board, because I have a feeling it's only a matter of time before it fails, as well.

Anyway, is there a guide as how to adjust the alignment after reassembly? All the links from the beginning of this thread are long dead (I jumped from page 8, to the end, just to see if there were still new posts being made). Since I didn't have a disassembly guide, handy, I took out all the screws that I thought were holding the DMD assembly to the chasis, and those included the supposed alignment screws.

Any information or links would be greatly appreciated.

-Fred

Fred,

I should have the service manual by Monday or Tuesday (hopefully), so I may be able to give you more help then. My best educated guess for you at this point is to put the screws back in, and then by trial and error try to line the chip back up. But like I said, I might be able to help more once I have the service manual.

By the way, funny how Samsung said the HLS5687WX/XAA "hasn't been shown to exhibit a higher than normal failure rate" for the chip when all of us have the problem. Oh and one of the reps told me the HLS5686 models DO qualify for the covered DMD chip repair...those are the same chips, just a 720p vs a 1080p model from what I understand. Cheap a**holes. I will definitely not be buying a Samsung again.

Just an update. I installed the new 4719-001997 chip and all my mirror problems are solved . And even though I don't have any current issues with the DMD board, I'm holding on to the one I (mistakingly) ordered. Parts are getting harder and harder to find for these older sets.

I need to do an alignment, but what I can't understand is how the 3 screws affect alignment. They pass all the way through the DMD assembly, into the backing plate (that holds the magnifier). How are people removing the DLP from the backside, without having to take out these 3 screws? Unless this is a design difference between the HL-S5687 and the other series mentioned earlier in the thread. I also had a focus issue, but that's easily resolved by just reaching behind the DMD/color wheel assembly and turning the lens (clockwise for sharper, counter for softer). I did it blind, with one hand - really easy process on this model.

Phoenix, if you could post that info, it would be greatly appreciated. I have a small gap at the bottom, at a slight angle. I'd love to see if the adjustment procedure is different for our tv.

Now, I don't know if it's going to be much help, but I also did the Arctic Silver 5 upgrade and used their tinting technique. And just to further reduce the heat build-up, I purchased a 4" desk fan from Amazon.com (the manufacturer is Westpointe), to blow cooler air across the backside of the TV, to help the internal fan, move heat out. The fan runs nice and quiet. Only downside is that I can't control it with the remote .

If anyone has any questions about the procedures on removing the DMD/DLP on the HL-S5687WX/XAA, fire away and I'll answer as best I can.

I just spoke with Samsung today regarding white dots on my HLT5075S. I was a little surprised as the representative said they will cover ONLY the cost of the part and WILL NOT PAY LABOR OR VISIT charges.

Also, I've searched through a bunch of places and can't seem to locate a service manual for the HLTxx75S series. Is this TV sufficiently similar to another line that I might be able to use their manual?

EDIT:

Has anyone succeeded in getting Samsung to send the chip? The first rep told me no, but I'm thinking of calling back to ask again. I would rather install the chip myself than be forced to pay a bunch of labor charges to have a questionable repairman come do it.

@KewlK: Are there instructions some where so I that I can do that when I get my new chip? Would I use the same thermal paste that I do for a PC processor?

just got a white dot on the screen. after reading some of this, I am, not too thrilled. What are you guys having to pay?

I have an HLT-6176s, it looks like its the dmd board and those are on national back-order. Is it always the dmd board? right now it's a single white dot that won't go away.

thanks guys

It's actually the DLP chip that fails. In some instances, the chip is sold as part of the DMD board assembly, but in my expreince, that was not the case.

If you can remove the access panel (the T series is probably significantly different than the S series, considering it's the Thin line), you should be able to verify the DMD board part number (will most likely start with BP and follow the format BPxx-xxxx(A/B/C) ).

But, according to samsungparts.com, your set (if it's the X/XAA model, I didn't check the X/XAC), uses the 4719-001997 chip. Verify the full model number of your set, before you go this route

Unfortunately, it's on a national backorder, with no ETA. Fortunately, you can get it on ebay. I used LeElectronics and paid $270, incl. shipping. All in all, from the time you open the set to pull the chip, to the time you close the set back up and re-align everything, you're looking about 1.5 - 2.5 hours of work, depending on your skill level.

And to be completely honest, I did mine, with absolutely no fore knowledge of the set and no instructions. I saw one or two pictures of other sets to get an idea of what the assembly looked like, but pretty much went into, blind. Just make a note of where all the connectors plug into. Now in my set (which may differ from yours, in this respect), there are seven screws to be aware of - 4 with springs and 3 alignment screws, under white caps. There are also 4 small screws in the corners of the assembly, but you can leave those in, until the assembly is out. They hold the metal cover on, over the PCB. Take the heatsink off, remove the metal cover, flip the board out, pull the chip, replace the chip and then do everything in reverse.

Like everything else in the world, you can't be afraid of it. It's just technology. You're doing this job, because in essence, the dang thing is broken. At that point, it doesn't really get more broken. If it does, call samsung and get the number for a local certified repair center. Samsung was going to make you pay for labor, anyway.

Been a huge fan of the DLPs, since buying my HLP4663W way back when.. Only problem I've ever had was the color wheel, which just went out on me in October. A few things I would like to touch on in this thread...
1) I lived in NYC when I bought this tv - right around the corner from Columbus Circle, which happened to have a Samsung Experience store or something of that nature. They had practically one of everything they made in there. Anyway, I spoke to the salesman, and he told me two things.. Get the HDMI connection, and a power cleaner. Now, up until then, all those horribly overpriced 'Monster Cable surge protectors' I would see at the store made me laugh. But, he explained to me I'd probably be changing the bulb once a year if I had not purchased one. I might be preaching to the choir here, but basically he informed me how uneven the power is when it enters your home, and the fluctuation in levels causes stress on the internal components of the system. Made sense, I was making money at the time, so I pulled the trigger on the $150 or so Monster Cable unit. Needless to say, I've only replaced the color wheel, just in October. So, that's what, 8 years of reliable service out of this unit?! Original bulb.
2) I've been on the hunt for one of the larger units, just for fun, since I've torn my original 4663W apart, and felt fairly confident in doing it again. There are quite a few DLP's to be had in various states of disrepair off of Craigslist - just do a search and see... I found quite a few.. There's one guy selling the LED DLP for about $1k, and well, there was this guy I got in touch with last week, selling an HLT6156WX/XAA for $100, claiming white dot syndrome. I pounced on it. Called Samsung once so far, with incomplete model number information, and they said the tv was not covered. However, the first CR rep was hinting towards it being covered. Anyway, with my Giants in the Super Bowl, playing the Paytties, perfect timing to have a grand viewing on my new 61" beast of hottness. So, I ordered the part, where, how, with all these backorders?! On Ebay of course... Soundview00 - he has my chip for sale (4719-001997 1910-6143W), I picked it up for $189.99. Ordered Wednesday, shipped same day, got it today, from Florida. Anyway, the guy offers up two phone numbers to call him with any questions. I did, just to up my confidence levels prior to tearing apart a behemoth the size of my kitchen table.
About a half hour of taking apart, and putting back together, and I have a $289 61" 1080P TV for my Super Bowl Part... Oh yeah, and having my PS3 hooked up for Battlefield 3 is fairly amazing too. Funny, when you watch TV, the people are actually larger than life.. Go ahead, have your friend pose next to their favorite star for a photo, it's quite funny...

So, let's recap... 1) Don't buy anything from Samsung, didn't you already swear against it? 2) Don't buy from anywhere that is backordered, you want to watch TV don't you? 3) Find from a reputable seller on Ebay, and pull the trigger, you'll be happy you did. My item came well packaged, peanuts, bubble wrap, and antistatic bagged... With the urging to call his phone numbers with any questions I had, I called him at 7:30 tonight, and he picked right up.... And 3) Get a friggen' power cleaner already! Isn't 8 years of heavy usage enough proof for you?! This thing has been through violent lightning storms, various power surges, and two blown transformers in my neighborhood.

Watch the video prior to doing the job, and see how comfortable you feel about it. If you've ever worked on a computer, you'll have no problem doing this job. Now my only problem is, I've got my eye on the 71" this guy has for sale about an hour away... And, well, I've ran out of room to put tvs in my house...

I'm going to call Samsung again and try to get them to cover the service charge.

The service center wants $135 to replace the chip, but since they're not going to do the arctic silver fix, I'm going to have to pull it out and redo the job anyway. Argh! Seems to ridiculous to pay for labor when I only want the part.

I replaced the DLP chip and it seems to have taken care of the white dot issue. However, I did take the thermal pad off and apply Arctic Silver 5. I'm having trouble getting the Arctic Silver smooth enough, though, and now I can see a couple of "smudges". They're really only noticeable when black is on the screen (such as with the TV on but sources off, or during really dark scenes), but they still bug me. Anyone have any suggestions for getting rid of the smudges?

Just an update. I installed the new 4719-001997 chip and all my mirror problems are solved . And even though I don't have any current issues with the DMD board, I'm holding on to the one I (mistakingly) ordered. Parts are getting harder and harder to find for these older sets.

I need to do an alignment, but what I can't understand is how the 3 screws affect alignment. They pass all the way through the DMD assembly, into the backing plate (that holds the magnifier). How are people removing the DLP from the backside, without having to take out these 3 screws? Unless this is a design difference between the HL-S5687 and the other series mentioned earlier in the thread. I also had a focus issue, but that's easily resolved by just reaching behind the DMD/color wheel assembly and turning the lens (clockwise for sharper, counter for softer). I did it blind, with one hand - really easy process on this model.

Phoenix, if you could post that info, it would be greatly appreciated. I have a small gap at the bottom, at a slight angle. I'd love to see if the adjustment procedure is different for our tv.

Now, I don't know if it's going to be much help, but I also did the Arctic Silver 5 upgrade and used their tinting technique. And just to further reduce the heat build-up, I purchased a 4" desk fan from Amazon.com (the manufacturer is Westpointe), to blow cooler air across the backside of the TV, to help the internal fan, move heat out. The fan runs nice and quiet. Only downside is that I can't control it with the remote .

If anyone has any questions about the procedures on removing the DMD/DLP on the HL-S5687WX/XAA, fire away and I'll answer as best I can.

-Fred

Got the manual. What's your email address? I'll send you the PDF of the alignment section.