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Le vigneron : a newsletter for the grape growers and wine makers of Oklahoma.

Boy, it sure has been a scorching summer so far. I reported in my July
7th blog entry that for the month of June some locations in the state
have been 8 to 10 degrees above normal. And it sure doesn’t look to be
any better in the next couple of months. In this issue I tackle the divide
between grape growers and wine makers in the state — this also was
ripped right from my blog (if you are not reading it, why not?). Also in
this issue we ask for some assistance to help guide our way and the way
of the industry in Oklahoma. On page two there is a request to com-plete
a survey for the Oklahoma Grape Industry Council. On pages 9
and 11 are two more survey opportunities, the first to help the OSU
Viticulture and Enology website get better and provide the information
you want and need and the second is on a more national scale to help
the Grape Community of Practice and eViticulture.org get some idea of
how we can assist growers. All very important and won’t take much of
your time. William McGlynn adds a new Technical Tipple to this issue
on an Oklahoma wine that looks promising, but holds a dark, sinister
secret. I have also included some photos and notes on how vines seem
to be recovering (or not) from the devastating February freeze event.
Not everything is rosy at the Perkins vineyard, let me put it that way,
and I don’t think we even know what the full effects are yet. So, go
ahead and read on in this third issue of the year — maybe it will even
stir up “A Hot Time in the Old Town Tonight”.
Volume 6, issue 3
Hot Time in the Old Town Tonight
July-September 2011
Editor:
• Eric T. Stafne
Hot Time... 1
GMSC Update 1
eViticulture Update 2
OGIC Survey 2
Technical Tipple 3
Technical Tipple Cont. 4
GG/WM Paradox 5
GG/WM Paradox, cont. 6
Operation: Grapevine
Recovery
7-8
OSU Website Survey 9
Cultivar Spotlight 10
National Grape Survey 11
Inside this issue:
Le Vigneron
A newsletter for the grape growers and wine makers of Oklahoma
Oklahoma State Univer si ty and Oklahoma Cooperat ive Extensi on Servi ce
2011 OSU Grape Management Short Course Update
Eric T. Stafne
The OSU GMSC has motored right along — we have had four classes to
date with three left to go. We have had the opportunity to see some classic
cold damage symptoms. With the May rains we were able to see disease
flare-ups, especially black rot. We have covered a lot of ground since the
beginning of the course, but there is still quite a bit left to go. One of the
disappointing parts of the class is that there is not enough time to cover all
one needs to know. But, we do the best we can and believe we give the stu-dent
a good foundation for learning more. We have a good crop of students
this year who are eager to learn.
The web resource, eViticulture.org, has been up and running now for a few months. We keep
track of usage through Google Analytics and have found some interesting things so far
(although the sample size is too small to make any conclusions yet). So far, eviticulture.org
is the entry point of choice to our information by a small margin over extension.org/grapes.
The most visited content page is “Starting a Vineyard” followed by “Parts of the Grape Vine:
Flowers and Fruit” and “Partes de la Planta de Uva: Brotes”. As you can see one of the most
visited pages is in Spanish. In fact, Spanish-speaking countries make four of the top five
spots for visitors. Number one is the United States, followed by Spain, Mexico, Argentina,
and Chile. Within the U.S., the top state is California, followed by New York, Texas, Okla-homa,
and Oregon. I am glad to say that Oklahoma made the top five. The other states are
all much larger producers than we are, but it shows our increasing interest in viticulture
education. More articles will be added as time goes along, after all, this is a dynamic web
resource with all kinds of opportunities for new information. It is also information you can
trust. Every article posted on our site is reviewed by two viticulture specialists and you can
see who they are as well as the author of the article. If you have not taken a look at the site
I encourage you to do so and provide some feedback by going to the back page of this news-letter
and follow the link to our survey or just right to it here:
https://okstatecasnr.qualtrics.com/SE/?SID=SV_agjMhFmvr6f4TMo
The Oklahoma Grape Industry Council (OGIC) is trying to get a handle on the number of vineyards in the state
with all the related details. Why do they want to know? One reason is to help you sell your grapes to a winery,
by pairing those with grapes to those who need grapes. Another is to have hard numbers to help market the
industry to the public and to political figures. They want to grow the industry and with your assistance they
can move in that direction. So, if you own a vineyard please provide that information to OGIC. The contact in-formation
is below:
Jimmy Johns
smokingrapes@icu.net
(405) 942-3333 or (405) 436-1629
Here are some things they would like to know — is your vineyard commercial or hobby? How many acres do
you have? How many vines? Which varieties? Tonnage? And any other details you think would be useful.
This is extremely important information to the grape and wine industry of Oklahoma. You can help move it in a
positive direction by responding to this call for information. I will also put out a call in my blog and email, so if
you receive this message multiple times, my apologies, but hopefully it will serve as a reminder.
eViticulture.org Update
Eric T. Stafne
Oklahoma Grape Industry Council Vineyard Survey
Eric T. Stafne
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 2
The wine on the bench and in the glass in this edition of Le Vigneron is a blended red from right here
in sunny Oklahoma. A vintner must keep his or her secrets, so we don’t know exactly what grapes
went into this blend. We do know that it consists primarily of hybrid grapes, including Chambourcin
among others. We also know that there might be some white grape wine added as well, to lighten and
sweeten the blend. The wine is intended to be enjoyed as a basic table wine, and is so labeled. Suit-able
for drinking with a light meal, or for sipping with snacks or appetizers, it’s meant to be immedi-ately
accessible and drinkable. The wine might or might not be sweet and fruity enough to entice the
novice imbiber, but it shouldn’t scare him or her away either. As a product, this wine is meant to be
sturdy and reliable, pleasant and useful but not too flamboyant. In that, it should be a very depend-able
bottle for a winery to have on its shelves.
Does this wine succeed in its modest but laudable goals? Well, yes and no. More on that in a mo-ment,
but first let’s look at the objective test results we obtained:
Oklahoma Red Blend
pH: 3.35
Titratable acidity: 7.1 g/L (0.71%) as tartaric
Free SO2: 55 ppm
Residual sugar: 0.1% (1 g/L)
Alcohol: 12.9% (Labeled as Table Wine)
Looking at the pH and acidity of the wine, we see that the pH was at the low end of the desirable
range for a red wine (~3.3 – 3.5) while the titratable acidity was well within the desirable range for a
red (~6 – 8 g/L). The residual sugar content was about 1 g/L (0.1%), which places it well within the
dry range. The alcohol content was 12.9% as measured by Ebulliometer. This falls within the re-quired
range for wine labeled as “Table Wine”, which is 7-14% alcohol.
The free SO2 level was measured at 55 ppm. This translates to a molecular SO2 concentration of
about 1.5 mg/L (ppm) at a pH of 3.35, which well above the standard baseline of 0.6 mg/L molecular
SO2 recommended to insure storage stability.
Overall the fundamental chemistry of this wine appears to be sound.
The subjective impressions:
The wine was extremely clear, with a brilliant ruby red color. Some might argue that it was over-filtered,
but the degree of clarity may arguably serve to boost the wine’s popular appeal. In any case,
the degree of filtration doesn’t appear to have stripped the wine’s aromas or flavors. The legs were
not pronounced – as expected given the moderate alcohol content and relatively low residual sugar
concentration. All in all, the wine gave a pleasant appearance in the glass.
-continued page 4-
The Technical Tipple
William McGlynn
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 3
The Technical Tipple, Cont.
William McGlynn
The aroma of the wine was fairly complex, fruity smells predominated, including black cherry, currant,
and raisin. There were also some spicy aromas of black pepper and licorice. There were hints of sage
and eucalyptus as well, along with an earthy note (more on that below). Altogether the aroma was
pleasant, somewhat pungent but not objectionably so.
The wine was fairly well balanced and light in the mouth. It could perhaps have benefited from a bit
more body. A somewhat higher residual sugar concentration might have helped this, and also high-lighted
some of the fruit flavors in the wine. There was an unmistakable foxy note that derived from the
hybrid grapes, no doubt. But it wasn’t overwhelming; in fact it rather suited the mix of flavors in the
wine. Most of the flavors matched the aromas described above. The mix of fruit, herbs, and spice was
quite nice.
But here is where the trouble begins, because this wine also carried a few distinct off-flavors. Not over-powering,
but unmistakable… There was a bitter, medicinal note to the wine, a bit of a sour green fla-vor,
and the distinct hint of mold and must, like cardboard long abandoned in a dank basement. What
happened? It’s impossible to know for certain. It’s possible that this single bottle became “corked.” But
the seal appeared to be good and there were no signs of oxidation in the form of browning; nor were there
any off-aromas coming from the cork itself. Perhaps some of the grapes had seen a bit too much action
by acetobacter bacteria before fermentation took off, leading to the formation of ethyl acetate during fer-mentation.
Perhaps a batch of oak chips that had gone bad or were bad to start with were used during
aging, leading to the formation of trichloroanisoles (TCAs). Perhaps it was a combination of issues that
pushed the off-flavors over the sensory threshold. Whatever the exact cause or causes, the unfortunate
truth is that these defects rendered what would otherwise have been an interesting and pleasant wine
more or less unacceptable.
The final verdict:
This wine is an interesting blend of flavors and aromas. It’s pretty in the glass. Relatively dry and
fruity, it could be paired with a variety of foods, either with a meal or with appetizers or snacks. As
such, it’s a good example of a wine that could be a good seller for many Oklahoma wineries. Unfortu-nately,
the defects in this wine (which in fairness may have been limited to this single bottle) render it
better suited to be used as an example of what can go wrong in the winemaking process. Perhaps the
take home lesson is that producing quality wines requires a relentless commitment to quality and best
winemaking practices up and down the line from vineyard to bottle, whether one is talking about a pre-mium
product or an everyday table wine. Another lesson may be that even with that commitment, some
batches are going to be problematic.
The Technical Tippler’s ranking of an Oklahoma Red Blend: 2 out of 10 flasks (Note: the rank-ing
would have been 6 or 7 out of 10 without the defects).
The Technical Tippler welcomes suggestions for wines to evaluate and evaluations to conduct! Feel free
to email suggestions to william.mcglynn@okstate.edu.
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 4
The Grape Grower/Winemaker Paradox
Eric T. Stafne
Below is a post from my blog (glog) that several folks thought was worthwhile. So, since not everyone
who reads this newsletter subscribes to, or reads, my blog, I thought I would publish it here. These are
just my observations and what I think will lead to sustainability in the future for the Oklahoma grape
and wine industry. Winemakers who want to make Chardonnay will need to get their product from out-of-
state to have a consistent, and quality, supply. However, there are other options that the growers in
this state can supply every year. We just need to find that middle ground. Is the wine industry about
the wine? Yes, but it is also about the experience. I like to drink wine, but my favorite thing is to try
different wines. Maybe I am in the minority, but maybe not. People drink wine for the experience of it
— and there is plenty of experiences to be tried outside of the “Noble” varieties. So, take read the post
below for more.
While at the OGIC meeting on June 20th, I listened to discussion on the bill that would mandate using
Oklahoma fruit for wine (SB 659). Of course this is a great idea — without any reasoning behind it. It is
absurd to think that all the needs for 60+ wineries can be met by the grapes and fruit produced in Okla-homa.
Not only are there not enough vineyards to supply the grapes, the climatic variability we experi-ence
is guaranteed to disrupt the supply to some extent every year. Therefore, supplies from out-of-state
are a must at this stage. The industry is too small to depend on Oklahoma-only fruit. Now, that being
said, there must be an incentive for grape growers to continue to expand and eventually be able to sup-ply
all the need. It all seems so easy — wine makers need grapes, grape growers grow grapes, one sup-plied
the other, problem solved. Yet, this is where the paradox arises:
Wine makers don’t want poor quality grapes. Not enough grape growers understand how to
produce high quality grapes.
The solution here seems simple, but is rather complex in reality. Education on grape growing is a non-stop
endeavor. One never knows everything about grape growing and a new surprise is just around the
corner. Quality can go from good to unacceptable in a very short window of time. Many of the growers
in Oklahoma are not “professionals” in the field. They do this as a hobby or to gain some extra cash (or a
tax break) on the side. They may not live near the vineyard or even visit it every day. Constant interac-tion
with the vines is needed to keep on top of insect and disease outbreaks, as well as the need to drop
leaves, shoots, and clusters in a timely fashion. How does a wine maker fix this problem? Be involved.
Be very involved in the day-to-day operations of the vineyard. Go out there frequently to observe and
feel the plants. Taste the fruit. Take notes. Look closely at the vineyard records (and make sure the
vineyard owner keeps good records). Putting the entire burden on the grape grower is not the way to get
quality. What does a grape grower want most of all? Grapes and lots of them. But a winemaker needs a
certain quality of grape and that may mean diminishing the crop load. The communication must be
there to convey what is needed and why. And the winemaker must also keep in mind that every cluster
that hits the vineyard floor is lost revenue for the grape growers, so keep that in mind when paying the
tonnage fee at the end. Should an Oklahoma grower who did everything you asked and provided the
quality you needed get paid more than an out-of-state grower who provided the same material? It cer-tainly
would provide some incentive to the grower to continue.
-continued page 6-
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 5
Wine makers want certain varieties. Grape growers may not be able to produce those va-rieties
consistently (or of high enough quality).
Most wineries want vinifera grapes. Vinifera grapes are recognized as making the best wines. But,
they are not the vines that grow best in many places in Oklahoma. The risk that growers undertake
by growing vinifera is substantial, much more so than hybrid or American grapes. The cost to pro-duce
them is more and the reward at the end of the season in terms of price is more (in most cases).
Is this a sustainable model though? I am not saying that we should throw out all vinifera, but what I
am saying is that we need to consider that some hybrid varieties provide benefits. The idea that no
one will buy hybrid wine just isn’t a compelling case. Other states have vibrant wine industries and
produce largely (or exclusively) hybrid wine. There are vinifera grapes that are great in California
or Oregon or Bordeaux that are terrible in many places in Oklahoma. I hear stories of how a particu-lar
variety is great and is the “one” for Oklahoma. I have heard this about Cabernet franc, Merlot,
Riesling, etc. So far, Riesling is the closest, but I’m still not convinced. Vinifera grapes are much
more difficult to grow and thus we see the relation to the problem of grape grower education and ex-perience
leading to quality, but also to the next issue below.
Wine makers need a consistent supply. Grape growers are at the mercy of the environ-ment
for their supply (at least to some extent — enough to make it a considerable issue).
A consistent supply is something a winemaker counts on — the bottles must be filled to be sold. The
grape grower also counts on this. No grapes equals no money. We see that the winemaker and grape
grower are intrinsically linked by a common product. Yet the climate we live in has a substantial role
to play in the delivery of that product. Our continental climate is not well-suited for consistent grape
production: extreme cold in the winter, extreme heat in the summer (day and night), hail, poor soils,
high humidity, drought, floods, rain during pollination, rain during harvest, spring frosts/freezes,
early fall freezes, on and on and on. The challenges are great. Some of these can be mitigated
through proper education (choosing the best site, for example). One way is related to the second issue
above — variety selection. Hybrid and American grapes have tolerances to some of the climate issues
we deal with. For example, some varieties have tomentose leaves thus helping to protect from insect
predators. Others have thicker skins and heavy blooms that resist fungal infections on the fruit.
Some are substantially more cold hardy. The climate largely dictates what should and should not
be grown. One cannot overcome Mother Nature by desire or will. If one plays by her rules that is the
way to continue.
We must continually re-evaluate the future of the industry. I firmly believe there is room for vinifera
as well as hybrid and American grapes and the idea that using only vinifera grapes for wine is one
that will lead to never having enough grapes in Oklahoma. What is the incentive for growers to take
on the greatest risk? A winemaker can always go out-of-state for product, while the grower goes out-of-
business. We need to find a middle ground and bridge the considerable gap that exists between
winemakers and grape growers in this state. From what I have seen and heard, I believe the OGIC is
committed to doing that and I hope so because both winemakers and grape growers stand to benefit
from a strong relationship of understanding, compromise, and mutual respect.
The Grape Grower/Winemaker Paradox (cont.)
Eric T. Stafne
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 6
The question before us is this — how much damage have grapevines sustained due to the February
freeze event? In some cases that is very obvious, especially when the entire vine is dead (I’m looking
at you Chardonnay). Now, Chardonnay, as you well know, is not the most cold hardy vine, but it is
not the least cold hardy vine. So, why did it do so poorly following the freeze? I can name two things
right off the bat; first, the late fall freeze event of 2005 and the Easter freeze of 2007. Damage of this
kind can have cumulative or additive effects on a vine. The Chardonnay vines never fully recovered
from the 2007 event and were put down completely this year. At Perkins, we experienced a low tem-perature
of –13.5F, somewhat borderline for vinifera grapes. Some healthy, cold hardy vines will re-cover,
other weak and non-cold hardy vines greatly suffered. The Cabernet franc vines seem to have
been able to weather the event without catastrophic damage (too bad the fruit quality is always so
poor). Which cultivars look the best so far? Not surprisingly, the hybrids. Hybrids like Frontenac
gris, Chambourcin, Cynthiana, Rubaiyat, Traminette, Noiret, and Neptune look good SO FAR. I am
not about to say they have made it through this year unscathed. The hot, dry weather coupled with
the freeze injury/damaged incurred could make for a cocktail of death. I am starting to see some trees
really suffer now that the heat has been cranked up to 11. I suspect more grapevines will be on the
way out as well.
At Perkins, Dr. Damon Smith has a black rot trial in place that includes cultivars such as Lemberger,
Petit Manseng, and Gruner Veltliner (all vinifera) and Noiret, Rubaiyat, Frontenac gris, and Cynthi-ana.
As I said before, the hybrids look good. The vinifera? Meh. Some vines look fine and others
look dead. Below is a photo of a row of Lemberger vines.
-continued page 8-
Operation: Grapevine Recovery
Eric T. Stafne
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 7
Operation: Grapevine Recovery Cont.
What causes one vine to die whereas the next vine, in the same row, remains alive and looks fine? Ahh,
the mystery of life. It likely has to do with health of the vine before the damaging event. Maybe it didn’t
have adequate moisture (was the emitter plugged at that vine?) or perhaps there was a weed or weeds
near it, robbing it of essential nutrients and water. It may have had more disease or been attacked by
cane borers or the soil in that spot was not as good. It can be many things or a combination of things
that causes things to skirt that line of life and death.
Another photo shows a progression of symptoms, from healthy to weakened to downright sickly. The
vine on the right has deep green leaves. The next vine (middle) still has leaves, but the color is more yel-lowish,
indicating that something is not quite right. The two vines up from that one are dead, followed
by a nice green vine. Now, all of these vines might be dead by the end of the summer or by next year.
The level of sustained damaged is still unknown. We can cut into the cambium and take a look-see, but
in my experience grapevines will do what you least expect. And sometimes that is a good thing, and
other times, well, not so good.
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 8
2011 OSU Viticulture and Enology Website Evaluation Survey
Richelle A. Stafne, Research Specialist, Horticulture and Webmaster, Oklahoma State University
On May 20, 2011 a new research survey was launched to evaluate the Oklahoma State Univer-sity
Viticulture and Enology website. The purpose of the survey is to determine page usage and
how to improve the site to meet the needs of the viticulture and enology community. The brief
survey consists of eleven questions which range from how often you access the site to improve-ments
or changes you would like to see implemented. Your input as a site user is valuable and
we appreciate your time in completing the survey. Every recommendation will be considered.
We believe a professional research website is a great tool for getting up-to-date information and
news to grape growers, winemakers, and fellow researchers.
Survey Link: http://atrial.qualtrics.com/SE/?SID=SV_eQdQ7yXDGF0NUDG. For easy access,
a survey link can be found at the top of each page of the OSU Viticulture and Enology website
(www.grapes.okstate.edu). Access problems? Please email me at rich.stafne@okstate.edu Links
were also sent out via Dr. Stafne’s Glog and via e-mail to current and past attendees of the
Grape Management Course. Our goal is to improve the site by collecting as many survey re-sponses
as possible. Anyone who uses the site is encouraged to take the survey. Feel free to for-ward
the link to colleagues and employees who use our website. The survey will run through
September 1, 2011.
Step right up! Win a Prize! At the end of the survey there is an option to give us your email
address which will enter you in the contest to win a copy of the Handbook of Oklahoma Vine-yard
Establishment and Management, the Pocket Guide to Oklahoma Grape Diseases, Insects
and Other Disorders, as well as the 2011 Midwest Grape and Small Fruit Spray Guide. You
must complete the survey to enter the contest. Only one entry per person. The winner will be
contacted in September.
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 9
Cultivar Spotlight: Sangiovese
Eric T. Stafne
I must confess that ‘Sangiovese’ is one of my favorite wine grapes. I really like Sangiovese as a varietal
wine and in Chianti as well. It is an intriguing cultivar for Oklahoma because it is a Vitis vinifera grape
from Italy and seems to tolerate our hot temperatures well enough. But, it has some extremely detri-mental
traits that make it a probably “no-go” as a red wine cultivar in most of Oklahoma. Sangiovese
tends to produce large clusters and lots of them. This leads to overcropping situations if the crop load is
not properly managed. Overcropping a vine exacerbates vine stress and can manifest as reduced root
system size, poor winter hardiness, and reduced insect/disease resistance. Overcropping also results in
poor quality fruit with difficulty in achieving targets in critical Brix, TA, and pH levels. Another charac-teristic
that makes Sangiovese a difficult vine to grow in Oklahoma is its tendency toward early bud-break.
Many years it is only a day or two after Chardonnay. It is frequently affected by frost. The vine
is also not very cold hardy during the winter and although not completely killed by the –13.5 F at Per-kins
this past February, it was significantly injured and will not likely recover to previous levels of pro-duction
without serious intervention (i.e. starting the vine over or replanting). Sangiovese may have an
opportunity to work in SW Oklahoma, but frost will still be an issue there. Overall, it is not a cultivar
that I believe will work well for us on a long-term basis. It may be good (or acceptable) in some years but
the long-term sustainability to ensure profitability is just not there.
PAGE VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON 10
We welcome feedback and suggestions. Any responses can be mailed or
emailed to the addresses on the left. We will strive to provide useful, per-tinent,
and timely information.
Initially this newsletter will be published 4 times per year in January, April,
July, and October. If warranted the timing can be amended to better
serve the grape growers and wine makers of Oklahoma.
‘Vigneron’ is the French word for someone who grows grapes for use in
wine making.
Oklahoma State University
Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture
360 Agricultural Hall
Stillwater, OK 74078
OKLAHOMA STATE UNIVERSITY AND OKLAHOMA
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
The national eXtension Grapes Community of Practice is asking for your help in completing a
national survey. This will help us determine grower needs and future direction of our re-sources.
The survey is very short and can be completed quickly. Please take just a couple
minutes and fill it out. We want and need your input. Follow the link below to fill out the
survey:
https://okstatecasnr.qualtrics.com/SE/?SID=SV_agjMhFmvr6f4TMo
The information gathered is anonymous. It will give us good information to provide to the
leadership of eXtension and our universities on the direction of our web resource. If you have
not heard of www.eXtension.org, www.eXtension.org/grapes, or www.eviticulture.org please
take a look. More information is available on page 2 of this newsletter.
Thank you for helping us create better resources for grape growers on a national and interna-tional
scale.
National Viticulture Needs Assessment Survey
Eric T. Stafne
Phone: 405-744-5409
www.grapes.okstate.edu
E-mail: eric.t.stafne@okstate.edu

Boy, it sure has been a scorching summer so far. I reported in my July
7th blog entry that for the month of June some locations in the state
have been 8 to 10 degrees above normal. And it sure doesn’t look to be
any better in the next couple of months. In this issue I tackle the divide
between grape growers and wine makers in the state — this also was
ripped right from my blog (if you are not reading it, why not?). Also in
this issue we ask for some assistance to help guide our way and the way
of the industry in Oklahoma. On page two there is a request to com-plete
a survey for the Oklahoma Grape Industry Council. On pages 9
and 11 are two more survey opportunities, the first to help the OSU
Viticulture and Enology website get better and provide the information
you want and need and the second is on a more national scale to help
the Grape Community of Practice and eViticulture.org get some idea of
how we can assist growers. All very important and won’t take much of
your time. William McGlynn adds a new Technical Tipple to this issue
on an Oklahoma wine that looks promising, but holds a dark, sinister
secret. I have also included some photos and notes on how vines seem
to be recovering (or not) from the devastating February freeze event.
Not everything is rosy at the Perkins vineyard, let me put it that way,
and I don’t think we even know what the full effects are yet. So, go
ahead and read on in this third issue of the year — maybe it will even
stir up “A Hot Time in the Old Town Tonight”.
Volume 6, issue 3
Hot Time in the Old Town Tonight
July-September 2011
Editor:
• Eric T. Stafne
Hot Time... 1
GMSC Update 1
eViticulture Update 2
OGIC Survey 2
Technical Tipple 3
Technical Tipple Cont. 4
GG/WM Paradox 5
GG/WM Paradox, cont. 6
Operation: Grapevine
Recovery
7-8
OSU Website Survey 9
Cultivar Spotlight 10
National Grape Survey 11
Inside this issue:
Le Vigneron
A newsletter for the grape growers and wine makers of Oklahoma
Oklahoma State Univer si ty and Oklahoma Cooperat ive Extensi on Servi ce
2011 OSU Grape Management Short Course Update
Eric T. Stafne
The OSU GMSC has motored right along — we have had four classes to
date with three left to go. We have had the opportunity to see some classic
cold damage symptoms. With the May rains we were able to see disease
flare-ups, especially black rot. We have covered a lot of ground since the
beginning of the course, but there is still quite a bit left to go. One of the
disappointing parts of the class is that there is not enough time to cover all
one needs to know. But, we do the best we can and believe we give the stu-dent
a good foundation for learning more. We have a good crop of students
this year who are eager to learn.
The web resource, eViticulture.org, has been up and running now for a few months. We keep
track of usage through Google Analytics and have found some interesting things so far
(although the sample size is too small to make any conclusions yet). So far, eviticulture.org
is the entry point of choice to our information by a small margin over extension.org/grapes.
The most visited content page is “Starting a Vineyard” followed by “Parts of the Grape Vine:
Flowers and Fruit” and “Partes de la Planta de Uva: Brotes”. As you can see one of the most
visited pages is in Spanish. In fact, Spanish-speaking countries make four of the top five
spots for visitors. Number one is the United States, followed by Spain, Mexico, Argentina,
and Chile. Within the U.S., the top state is California, followed by New York, Texas, Okla-homa,
and Oregon. I am glad to say that Oklahoma made the top five. The other states are
all much larger producers than we are, but it shows our increasing interest in viticulture
education. More articles will be added as time goes along, after all, this is a dynamic web
resource with all kinds of opportunities for new information. It is also information you can
trust. Every article posted on our site is reviewed by two viticulture specialists and you can
see who they are as well as the author of the article. If you have not taken a look at the site
I encourage you to do so and provide some feedback by going to the back page of this news-letter
and follow the link to our survey or just right to it here:
https://okstatecasnr.qualtrics.com/SE/?SID=SV_agjMhFmvr6f4TMo
The Oklahoma Grape Industry Council (OGIC) is trying to get a handle on the number of vineyards in the state
with all the related details. Why do they want to know? One reason is to help you sell your grapes to a winery,
by pairing those with grapes to those who need grapes. Another is to have hard numbers to help market the
industry to the public and to political figures. They want to grow the industry and with your assistance they
can move in that direction. So, if you own a vineyard please provide that information to OGIC. The contact in-formation
is below:
Jimmy Johns
smokingrapes@icu.net
(405) 942-3333 or (405) 436-1629
Here are some things they would like to know — is your vineyard commercial or hobby? How many acres do
you have? How many vines? Which varieties? Tonnage? And any other details you think would be useful.
This is extremely important information to the grape and wine industry of Oklahoma. You can help move it in a
positive direction by responding to this call for information. I will also put out a call in my blog and email, so if
you receive this message multiple times, my apologies, but hopefully it will serve as a reminder.
eViticulture.org Update
Eric T. Stafne
Oklahoma Grape Industry Council Vineyard Survey
Eric T. Stafne
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 2
The wine on the bench and in the glass in this edition of Le Vigneron is a blended red from right here
in sunny Oklahoma. A vintner must keep his or her secrets, so we don’t know exactly what grapes
went into this blend. We do know that it consists primarily of hybrid grapes, including Chambourcin
among others. We also know that there might be some white grape wine added as well, to lighten and
sweeten the blend. The wine is intended to be enjoyed as a basic table wine, and is so labeled. Suit-able
for drinking with a light meal, or for sipping with snacks or appetizers, it’s meant to be immedi-ately
accessible and drinkable. The wine might or might not be sweet and fruity enough to entice the
novice imbiber, but it shouldn’t scare him or her away either. As a product, this wine is meant to be
sturdy and reliable, pleasant and useful but not too flamboyant. In that, it should be a very depend-able
bottle for a winery to have on its shelves.
Does this wine succeed in its modest but laudable goals? Well, yes and no. More on that in a mo-ment,
but first let’s look at the objective test results we obtained:
Oklahoma Red Blend
pH: 3.35
Titratable acidity: 7.1 g/L (0.71%) as tartaric
Free SO2: 55 ppm
Residual sugar: 0.1% (1 g/L)
Alcohol: 12.9% (Labeled as Table Wine)
Looking at the pH and acidity of the wine, we see that the pH was at the low end of the desirable
range for a red wine (~3.3 – 3.5) while the titratable acidity was well within the desirable range for a
red (~6 – 8 g/L). The residual sugar content was about 1 g/L (0.1%), which places it well within the
dry range. The alcohol content was 12.9% as measured by Ebulliometer. This falls within the re-quired
range for wine labeled as “Table Wine”, which is 7-14% alcohol.
The free SO2 level was measured at 55 ppm. This translates to a molecular SO2 concentration of
about 1.5 mg/L (ppm) at a pH of 3.35, which well above the standard baseline of 0.6 mg/L molecular
SO2 recommended to insure storage stability.
Overall the fundamental chemistry of this wine appears to be sound.
The subjective impressions:
The wine was extremely clear, with a brilliant ruby red color. Some might argue that it was over-filtered,
but the degree of clarity may arguably serve to boost the wine’s popular appeal. In any case,
the degree of filtration doesn’t appear to have stripped the wine’s aromas or flavors. The legs were
not pronounced – as expected given the moderate alcohol content and relatively low residual sugar
concentration. All in all, the wine gave a pleasant appearance in the glass.
-continued page 4-
The Technical Tipple
William McGlynn
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 3
The Technical Tipple, Cont.
William McGlynn
The aroma of the wine was fairly complex, fruity smells predominated, including black cherry, currant,
and raisin. There were also some spicy aromas of black pepper and licorice. There were hints of sage
and eucalyptus as well, along with an earthy note (more on that below). Altogether the aroma was
pleasant, somewhat pungent but not objectionably so.
The wine was fairly well balanced and light in the mouth. It could perhaps have benefited from a bit
more body. A somewhat higher residual sugar concentration might have helped this, and also high-lighted
some of the fruit flavors in the wine. There was an unmistakable foxy note that derived from the
hybrid grapes, no doubt. But it wasn’t overwhelming; in fact it rather suited the mix of flavors in the
wine. Most of the flavors matched the aromas described above. The mix of fruit, herbs, and spice was
quite nice.
But here is where the trouble begins, because this wine also carried a few distinct off-flavors. Not over-powering,
but unmistakable… There was a bitter, medicinal note to the wine, a bit of a sour green fla-vor,
and the distinct hint of mold and must, like cardboard long abandoned in a dank basement. What
happened? It’s impossible to know for certain. It’s possible that this single bottle became “corked.” But
the seal appeared to be good and there were no signs of oxidation in the form of browning; nor were there
any off-aromas coming from the cork itself. Perhaps some of the grapes had seen a bit too much action
by acetobacter bacteria before fermentation took off, leading to the formation of ethyl acetate during fer-mentation.
Perhaps a batch of oak chips that had gone bad or were bad to start with were used during
aging, leading to the formation of trichloroanisoles (TCAs). Perhaps it was a combination of issues that
pushed the off-flavors over the sensory threshold. Whatever the exact cause or causes, the unfortunate
truth is that these defects rendered what would otherwise have been an interesting and pleasant wine
more or less unacceptable.
The final verdict:
This wine is an interesting blend of flavors and aromas. It’s pretty in the glass. Relatively dry and
fruity, it could be paired with a variety of foods, either with a meal or with appetizers or snacks. As
such, it’s a good example of a wine that could be a good seller for many Oklahoma wineries. Unfortu-nately,
the defects in this wine (which in fairness may have been limited to this single bottle) render it
better suited to be used as an example of what can go wrong in the winemaking process. Perhaps the
take home lesson is that producing quality wines requires a relentless commitment to quality and best
winemaking practices up and down the line from vineyard to bottle, whether one is talking about a pre-mium
product or an everyday table wine. Another lesson may be that even with that commitment, some
batches are going to be problematic.
The Technical Tippler’s ranking of an Oklahoma Red Blend: 2 out of 10 flasks (Note: the rank-ing
would have been 6 or 7 out of 10 without the defects).
The Technical Tippler welcomes suggestions for wines to evaluate and evaluations to conduct! Feel free
to email suggestions to william.mcglynn@okstate.edu.
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 4
The Grape Grower/Winemaker Paradox
Eric T. Stafne
Below is a post from my blog (glog) that several folks thought was worthwhile. So, since not everyone
who reads this newsletter subscribes to, or reads, my blog, I thought I would publish it here. These are
just my observations and what I think will lead to sustainability in the future for the Oklahoma grape
and wine industry. Winemakers who want to make Chardonnay will need to get their product from out-of-
state to have a consistent, and quality, supply. However, there are other options that the growers in
this state can supply every year. We just need to find that middle ground. Is the wine industry about
the wine? Yes, but it is also about the experience. I like to drink wine, but my favorite thing is to try
different wines. Maybe I am in the minority, but maybe not. People drink wine for the experience of it
— and there is plenty of experiences to be tried outside of the “Noble” varieties. So, take read the post
below for more.
While at the OGIC meeting on June 20th, I listened to discussion on the bill that would mandate using
Oklahoma fruit for wine (SB 659). Of course this is a great idea — without any reasoning behind it. It is
absurd to think that all the needs for 60+ wineries can be met by the grapes and fruit produced in Okla-homa.
Not only are there not enough vineyards to supply the grapes, the climatic variability we experi-ence
is guaranteed to disrupt the supply to some extent every year. Therefore, supplies from out-of-state
are a must at this stage. The industry is too small to depend on Oklahoma-only fruit. Now, that being
said, there must be an incentive for grape growers to continue to expand and eventually be able to sup-ply
all the need. It all seems so easy — wine makers need grapes, grape growers grow grapes, one sup-plied
the other, problem solved. Yet, this is where the paradox arises:
Wine makers don’t want poor quality grapes. Not enough grape growers understand how to
produce high quality grapes.
The solution here seems simple, but is rather complex in reality. Education on grape growing is a non-stop
endeavor. One never knows everything about grape growing and a new surprise is just around the
corner. Quality can go from good to unacceptable in a very short window of time. Many of the growers
in Oklahoma are not “professionals” in the field. They do this as a hobby or to gain some extra cash (or a
tax break) on the side. They may not live near the vineyard or even visit it every day. Constant interac-tion
with the vines is needed to keep on top of insect and disease outbreaks, as well as the need to drop
leaves, shoots, and clusters in a timely fashion. How does a wine maker fix this problem? Be involved.
Be very involved in the day-to-day operations of the vineyard. Go out there frequently to observe and
feel the plants. Taste the fruit. Take notes. Look closely at the vineyard records (and make sure the
vineyard owner keeps good records). Putting the entire burden on the grape grower is not the way to get
quality. What does a grape grower want most of all? Grapes and lots of them. But a winemaker needs a
certain quality of grape and that may mean diminishing the crop load. The communication must be
there to convey what is needed and why. And the winemaker must also keep in mind that every cluster
that hits the vineyard floor is lost revenue for the grape growers, so keep that in mind when paying the
tonnage fee at the end. Should an Oklahoma grower who did everything you asked and provided the
quality you needed get paid more than an out-of-state grower who provided the same material? It cer-tainly
would provide some incentive to the grower to continue.
-continued page 6-
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 5
Wine makers want certain varieties. Grape growers may not be able to produce those va-rieties
consistently (or of high enough quality).
Most wineries want vinifera grapes. Vinifera grapes are recognized as making the best wines. But,
they are not the vines that grow best in many places in Oklahoma. The risk that growers undertake
by growing vinifera is substantial, much more so than hybrid or American grapes. The cost to pro-duce
them is more and the reward at the end of the season in terms of price is more (in most cases).
Is this a sustainable model though? I am not saying that we should throw out all vinifera, but what I
am saying is that we need to consider that some hybrid varieties provide benefits. The idea that no
one will buy hybrid wine just isn’t a compelling case. Other states have vibrant wine industries and
produce largely (or exclusively) hybrid wine. There are vinifera grapes that are great in California
or Oregon or Bordeaux that are terrible in many places in Oklahoma. I hear stories of how a particu-lar
variety is great and is the “one” for Oklahoma. I have heard this about Cabernet franc, Merlot,
Riesling, etc. So far, Riesling is the closest, but I’m still not convinced. Vinifera grapes are much
more difficult to grow and thus we see the relation to the problem of grape grower education and ex-perience
leading to quality, but also to the next issue below.
Wine makers need a consistent supply. Grape growers are at the mercy of the environ-ment
for their supply (at least to some extent — enough to make it a considerable issue).
A consistent supply is something a winemaker counts on — the bottles must be filled to be sold. The
grape grower also counts on this. No grapes equals no money. We see that the winemaker and grape
grower are intrinsically linked by a common product. Yet the climate we live in has a substantial role
to play in the delivery of that product. Our continental climate is not well-suited for consistent grape
production: extreme cold in the winter, extreme heat in the summer (day and night), hail, poor soils,
high humidity, drought, floods, rain during pollination, rain during harvest, spring frosts/freezes,
early fall freezes, on and on and on. The challenges are great. Some of these can be mitigated
through proper education (choosing the best site, for example). One way is related to the second issue
above — variety selection. Hybrid and American grapes have tolerances to some of the climate issues
we deal with. For example, some varieties have tomentose leaves thus helping to protect from insect
predators. Others have thicker skins and heavy blooms that resist fungal infections on the fruit.
Some are substantially more cold hardy. The climate largely dictates what should and should not
be grown. One cannot overcome Mother Nature by desire or will. If one plays by her rules that is the
way to continue.
We must continually re-evaluate the future of the industry. I firmly believe there is room for vinifera
as well as hybrid and American grapes and the idea that using only vinifera grapes for wine is one
that will lead to never having enough grapes in Oklahoma. What is the incentive for growers to take
on the greatest risk? A winemaker can always go out-of-state for product, while the grower goes out-of-
business. We need to find a middle ground and bridge the considerable gap that exists between
winemakers and grape growers in this state. From what I have seen and heard, I believe the OGIC is
committed to doing that and I hope so because both winemakers and grape growers stand to benefit
from a strong relationship of understanding, compromise, and mutual respect.
The Grape Grower/Winemaker Paradox (cont.)
Eric T. Stafne
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 6
The question before us is this — how much damage have grapevines sustained due to the February
freeze event? In some cases that is very obvious, especially when the entire vine is dead (I’m looking
at you Chardonnay). Now, Chardonnay, as you well know, is not the most cold hardy vine, but it is
not the least cold hardy vine. So, why did it do so poorly following the freeze? I can name two things
right off the bat; first, the late fall freeze event of 2005 and the Easter freeze of 2007. Damage of this
kind can have cumulative or additive effects on a vine. The Chardonnay vines never fully recovered
from the 2007 event and were put down completely this year. At Perkins, we experienced a low tem-perature
of –13.5F, somewhat borderline for vinifera grapes. Some healthy, cold hardy vines will re-cover,
other weak and non-cold hardy vines greatly suffered. The Cabernet franc vines seem to have
been able to weather the event without catastrophic damage (too bad the fruit quality is always so
poor). Which cultivars look the best so far? Not surprisingly, the hybrids. Hybrids like Frontenac
gris, Chambourcin, Cynthiana, Rubaiyat, Traminette, Noiret, and Neptune look good SO FAR. I am
not about to say they have made it through this year unscathed. The hot, dry weather coupled with
the freeze injury/damaged incurred could make for a cocktail of death. I am starting to see some trees
really suffer now that the heat has been cranked up to 11. I suspect more grapevines will be on the
way out as well.
At Perkins, Dr. Damon Smith has a black rot trial in place that includes cultivars such as Lemberger,
Petit Manseng, and Gruner Veltliner (all vinifera) and Noiret, Rubaiyat, Frontenac gris, and Cynthi-ana.
As I said before, the hybrids look good. The vinifera? Meh. Some vines look fine and others
look dead. Below is a photo of a row of Lemberger vines.
-continued page 8-
Operation: Grapevine Recovery
Eric T. Stafne
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 7
Operation: Grapevine Recovery Cont.
What causes one vine to die whereas the next vine, in the same row, remains alive and looks fine? Ahh,
the mystery of life. It likely has to do with health of the vine before the damaging event. Maybe it didn’t
have adequate moisture (was the emitter plugged at that vine?) or perhaps there was a weed or weeds
near it, robbing it of essential nutrients and water. It may have had more disease or been attacked by
cane borers or the soil in that spot was not as good. It can be many things or a combination of things
that causes things to skirt that line of life and death.
Another photo shows a progression of symptoms, from healthy to weakened to downright sickly. The
vine on the right has deep green leaves. The next vine (middle) still has leaves, but the color is more yel-lowish,
indicating that something is not quite right. The two vines up from that one are dead, followed
by a nice green vine. Now, all of these vines might be dead by the end of the summer or by next year.
The level of sustained damaged is still unknown. We can cut into the cambium and take a look-see, but
in my experience grapevines will do what you least expect. And sometimes that is a good thing, and
other times, well, not so good.
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 8
2011 OSU Viticulture and Enology Website Evaluation Survey
Richelle A. Stafne, Research Specialist, Horticulture and Webmaster, Oklahoma State University
On May 20, 2011 a new research survey was launched to evaluate the Oklahoma State Univer-sity
Viticulture and Enology website. The purpose of the survey is to determine page usage and
how to improve the site to meet the needs of the viticulture and enology community. The brief
survey consists of eleven questions which range from how often you access the site to improve-ments
or changes you would like to see implemented. Your input as a site user is valuable and
we appreciate your time in completing the survey. Every recommendation will be considered.
We believe a professional research website is a great tool for getting up-to-date information and
news to grape growers, winemakers, and fellow researchers.
Survey Link: http://atrial.qualtrics.com/SE/?SID=SV_eQdQ7yXDGF0NUDG. For easy access,
a survey link can be found at the top of each page of the OSU Viticulture and Enology website
(www.grapes.okstate.edu). Access problems? Please email me at rich.stafne@okstate.edu Links
were also sent out via Dr. Stafne’s Glog and via e-mail to current and past attendees of the
Grape Management Course. Our goal is to improve the site by collecting as many survey re-sponses
as possible. Anyone who uses the site is encouraged to take the survey. Feel free to for-ward
the link to colleagues and employees who use our website. The survey will run through
September 1, 2011.
Step right up! Win a Prize! At the end of the survey there is an option to give us your email
address which will enter you in the contest to win a copy of the Handbook of Oklahoma Vine-yard
Establishment and Management, the Pocket Guide to Oklahoma Grape Diseases, Insects
and Other Disorders, as well as the 2011 Midwest Grape and Small Fruit Spray Guide. You
must complete the survey to enter the contest. Only one entry per person. The winner will be
contacted in September.
VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON PAGE 9
Cultivar Spotlight: Sangiovese
Eric T. Stafne
I must confess that ‘Sangiovese’ is one of my favorite wine grapes. I really like Sangiovese as a varietal
wine and in Chianti as well. It is an intriguing cultivar for Oklahoma because it is a Vitis vinifera grape
from Italy and seems to tolerate our hot temperatures well enough. But, it has some extremely detri-mental
traits that make it a probably “no-go” as a red wine cultivar in most of Oklahoma. Sangiovese
tends to produce large clusters and lots of them. This leads to overcropping situations if the crop load is
not properly managed. Overcropping a vine exacerbates vine stress and can manifest as reduced root
system size, poor winter hardiness, and reduced insect/disease resistance. Overcropping also results in
poor quality fruit with difficulty in achieving targets in critical Brix, TA, and pH levels. Another charac-teristic
that makes Sangiovese a difficult vine to grow in Oklahoma is its tendency toward early bud-break.
Many years it is only a day or two after Chardonnay. It is frequently affected by frost. The vine
is also not very cold hardy during the winter and although not completely killed by the –13.5 F at Per-kins
this past February, it was significantly injured and will not likely recover to previous levels of pro-duction
without serious intervention (i.e. starting the vine over or replanting). Sangiovese may have an
opportunity to work in SW Oklahoma, but frost will still be an issue there. Overall, it is not a cultivar
that I believe will work well for us on a long-term basis. It may be good (or acceptable) in some years but
the long-term sustainability to ensure profitability is just not there.
PAGE VOLUME 6, ISSUE 3 LE VIGNERON 10
We welcome feedback and suggestions. Any responses can be mailed or
emailed to the addresses on the left. We will strive to provide useful, per-tinent,
and timely information.
Initially this newsletter will be published 4 times per year in January, April,
July, and October. If warranted the timing can be amended to better
serve the grape growers and wine makers of Oklahoma.
‘Vigneron’ is the French word for someone who grows grapes for use in
wine making.
Oklahoma State University
Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture
360 Agricultural Hall
Stillwater, OK 74078
OKLAHOMA STATE UNIVERSITY AND OKLAHOMA
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
The national eXtension Grapes Community of Practice is asking for your help in completing a
national survey. This will help us determine grower needs and future direction of our re-sources.
The survey is very short and can be completed quickly. Please take just a couple
minutes and fill it out. We want and need your input. Follow the link below to fill out the
survey:
https://okstatecasnr.qualtrics.com/SE/?SID=SV_agjMhFmvr6f4TMo
The information gathered is anonymous. It will give us good information to provide to the
leadership of eXtension and our universities on the direction of our web resource. If you have
not heard of www.eXtension.org, www.eXtension.org/grapes, or www.eviticulture.org please
take a look. More information is available on page 2 of this newsletter.
Thank you for helping us create better resources for grape growers on a national and interna-tional
scale.
National Viticulture Needs Assessment Survey
Eric T. Stafne
Phone: 405-744-5409
www.grapes.okstate.edu
E-mail: eric.t.stafne@okstate.edu