​I was woken by the wellingtoned feet of a solitary fisherman scrunching across the pebbles. He threw a line into the waves not far from the rock behind which I was sleeping. I hastily got dressed just as he decided to try his luck out on the headland. I’m sure he spotted me but he remained intent on what he was doing. I packed up the sleeping stuff quickly and then had a leisurely breakfast, followed by a little stroll along the beach then an even more leisurely swim – with snorkel and mask to see the assortment of fish that nibble away around our feet when we paddle, without us even realising. There were fishes that may have used those packs of fluorescent felt pens to colour themselves in – and yellowy-greeny stripy fish with white flashes on their fins, swimming in packs. There were shoals of tiny fish flashing silver as they caught sunbeams slanting down through the waves. Surprisingly no sea-shells, sea-weed or crustaceans. I even saw what looked like long–nosed gar (according to my friend Google) – long skinny fish with long noses.

I went snorkelling several times that day – greeting some of the fish like old friends. Coming out of the cool water I’d lay on the hot pebbles to dry off and snooze before going back in the sea again to cool down. I also did several dreadful daily draws, and finished Siddhartha – which I’ve been eking out. NOW what am I going to read?

I didn’t leave this lovely beach until gone 6pm. I rode along the coast to Komi, where I had an expensive supper of white bait and greek salad. These dishes are really designed for several people to share I think, but I took half away in a ‘doggy bag’ to have for breakfast. It was completely dark as I rode along after supper, looking for somewhere to camp, and far too built up. Large, very expensive looking houses line the coast now, so must be a more affluent area.

I saw a sign to Viri Beach Bar (called ‘Carpe Diem’ – so I took them at their word!) that looked closed up, despite this being a Friday night. I went down to explore further – and found camp beds under parasols made of beach grasses and the camp bar completely empty and no one around. I wheeled Rowenna down a steep slope that will be fun to climb again in the morning. Then I spotted a hammock – I’ve never slept in one before. I liked the gentle rocking to sleep under the stars.

Hi Terri. Those long fish are commonly known as trumpet fish. I saw one once in mexico and hought it was a snake - I yelled a warning and lots of folk scarpered pretty quickly before Jim fell about laughing - if you can do that in water and told me what it really was. He still laughs about that now given half a chance. Oh and your photography is improving no end - there are sme gorgeous photos here. Keep safe lovely xxx

Reply

noni mackenzie

10/8/2016 07:56:58

Your story of the abandoned beach bar reminds me of one near where we used to live, in Voula, just South of Athens. It was like the Marie Celeste, just seemed to have been abandoned and everything left just lying around, gradually deteriorating. Not something you'd see here and it struck us as very odd and jarring, and made us realise we were visiting a different culture, in a way not much else did. Glad you found it and hope you slept well in the hammock, dreaming of fluorescent fish!