Chimichurri 'Cued Chicken

This is a great choice for a casual barbecue, because the make-ahead chimichurri sauce delivers big-time flavor with no last-minute stress. You can cook the chicken entirely on the grill, turning it frequently, or start it on the grill, browning the outside nicely, and then finish it in a 375° F oven. Serve the sauce on the side if you're feeding kids, so they can try a bit if they're feeling adventurous.

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill to high.

To make chimichurri sauce: Combine garlic, bay leaves, chilies, and salt in a mortar and grind with a pestle until a smooth paste forms. (If you don't have a mortar and pestle, put ingredients in a blender along with 1 teaspoon or so vinegar, and process until a paste forms.) Transfer to a bowl and stir in parsley, oregano, and basil. Whisk in vinegar and olive oil until well combined. Set aside at room temperature until serving. This sauce is best if used the day it is made, but you can cover and refrigerate it, and it will retain its fresh flavor and bright green color for 2 or 3 days.

Oil grill rack. Place chicken, skin side down, on rack, and grill, turning pieces occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until well browned on all sides and juices run clear when a thigh or drumstick is pierced. Arrange chicken on a platter and spoon chimichurri sauce on top.