Harsh climate, great wines: Santorini proves the rule

Domaine Sigalas Aa, a blend of 75 percent assyrtiko and 25 percent athiri, had a whiff of smoke and pear, plus a palate full of citrus to go along with its lively acidity.

Domaine Sigalas Aa, a blend of 75 percent assyrtiko and 25 percent athiri, had a whiff of smoke and pear, plus a palate full of citrus to go along with its lively acidity. (Michael Tercha / Chicago Tribune)

Or if you prefer, you could use the term, kouloura ("coil"), to describe the innovation that allows grape-growing to flourish on the island of Santorini, where rain is scarce, sunshine is intense and strong winds are a normal part of life. The vistas there — like those of many Greek islands — are made for postcards and framed photographs in dental offices. We're talking about calming, hard-to-believe-it-is-real beauty. Among it all, one of Greece's most widely planted grape varieties — assyrtiko — not only contributes to the beauty but also thrives in the challenging conditions.

Humans who flock to this touristy spot in the Aegean Sea just above Crete might cope with the elements by donning wide-brim hats, flouncy white clothing and layers of sunblock. The grapes, however, survive through a different strategy managed by their caretakers, who train vines close to the ground in a circular shape, known locally as the kouloura method. The vines form what look like woven baskets, or wreaths, or nests, protecting the grapes from overbearing winds and, to some extent, harsh sunlight. They're like little round houses without roofs, and Santorini vineyards are dotted with them.

Around 1650 B.C., give or take, a volcanic eruption covered the island in lava and ash, and today the resulting volcanic soil contributes significantly to the character of Santorini wines. The soil's unique makeup also has prevented attacks from the pest phylloxera. This translates to old vines and even older roots. Most rain arrives on the island in the winter but other than that, sparse rainfall throughout the rest of the year and a regular nighttime foggy mist provide Santorini vines with the water they need. That sea mist has also been known to give some Santorini wines a pleasant briny character.

The assyrtiko grape variety (go ahead and say it out loud: "ah-SYR-tih-koh") is native to the island, and crisp, dry wines made from it — drawing from that volcanic soil — deliver pronounced minerality along with stone fruit, citrus and smoke. The wines usually enjoy both high acidity and high alcohol, and maintaining that naturally high acidity despite growing in such a harshly sunny climate is part of what makes these wines so interesting. A style of Santorini assyrtiko called "nykteri" involves extra-ripe grapes and mandatory oak-barrel aging. "Night work" is what the word "nykteri" translates to, referring to the practice of harvesting at night to escape the day's brutal sunlight and heat.

Although wines from Greece may not be as familiar to some of us as wines from other parts of the world, it should not be surprising that such a lovely style of wine could come from there. After all, this is the country that gave us the wine god Dionysus. People have been making wine in Greece for several thousand years (call it 4,000 — minimum), and Santorini's vineyards are believed to be some of the oldest in continuous production. The following wines range in style from citrusy and aperitif-ish to more Rubenesque, and all offer assyrtiko's signature mouth-cleansing acidity.

The 2014 Domaine Sigalas Aa ($22), a blend of 75 percent assyrtiko and 25 percent athiri, would work well with light appetizers and seafood, but also as a refreshing starter. It had a whiff of smoke and pear, plus a palate full of citrus to go along with its lively acidity. It was one of the lower-alcohol offerings of the tasting, too, at 13 percent.

A 100 percent assyrtiko bottling, the 2014 Gavalas Assyrtiko ($22), clocks in at the same potency as the above wine, but this one leaned more toward banana and stone fruit, most notably peach.

The 2013 Koutsoyannopoulos Winery Lavropivn ($22) had a floral quality, along with a hint of smoke and a nutty finish. Don't be alarmed when you see the bottle's black (synthetic) cork. It is most likely a nod to Santorini's famous black beach sand. (The island also has red and white sand, by the way, for anyone who is really into sand hues.)

The 2014 Santo Wines Nykteri ($26) is a beautiful blend of assyrtiko, athiri and aidani grape varieties. It was floral, herbal and smoky, with tart green apple and lively, tongue-dancing acidity. An interesting wine, for sure.

The 2013 Hatzidakis Nikteri ($34) delivers a formidable 15 percent alcohol and is delightful, offering up subtle peach and minerality, with a silky mouthfeel that was balanced by spice and acidity.

A whopper of a white, the 2013 Boutari Kallisti Reserve ($28) is made of 100 percent assyrtiko that was fermented and aged for seven months in French oak barrels. This all conspires to produce a complex wine that is full of anise, vanilla and nuts, complete with a long finish.

If you are familiarizing yourself with Greek wine, Santorini assyrtiko is a good place to start, and these are some good bottles to put in your basket.

If your wine store does not carry these, ask for wines similar in style and price.