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Sunday, August 23, 2009

The Walkaway Dress: Yea or Nay?

If you like vintage patterns, you've probably come across the Walk-away dress, a pattern first produced by Butterick in 1952 (the same year as Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing was published!). Legend has it that the pattern was such a hit that Butterick stopped production on all other patterns until backorders for the Walk-away could be filled.The pattern was reissued in recent years as part of Butterick's retro line. Home sewists went crazy for it all over again, making it a top pattern of 2007 on Pattern Review (with 27 reviews to date!).

True confession time: I just don't like it all that much. I've seen some cute versions of it, and some not so cute. I can see why people are attracted to it. But everytime I try to envision making it, it just looks like a hospital gown in my mind.

Butterick did make a later version called the Saturday Morning dress, which I think is vastly improved. Look at the interesting neckline and curved midriff! The idea is the same, but the execution seems more elegant and flattering to me. (It's interesting too, that the two patterns are so close in number, the Walk-Away is #6015, and the Saturday Morning is #6150.)

The only problem is that it also seems to be terribly rare, as I can't get my grubby little hands on a copy of it.

Oh, how I want this pattern! Please let me know if you come across it, that is, if you don't buy it for yourself first. In which case I wouldn't blame you, though I'd be very sad. Sigh.

58 comments:

I totally agree with you about the walkaway dress. I have seen it around the blog world alot but I am just not a fan. I like the second pattern you showed. No wonder its so rare. If I had a copy of there I wouldn't be selling it either.

I have definitely seen some not-so-cute versions of it, but either because the maker doesn't have the same (or any ;)) taste in fabric/colors as I (which can happen to any pattern), or because they used the modern repro pattern which a lot of people seem to have size issues with, so it's big here or bunches there.

That second pattern is so cute, but would be so bad for a short gal like me!

I have the Walkaway (the repro one) but I haven't ended up making it. I think I like it more as a concept. I can see that from a garment-care perspective, it might have been appealing to gals back in the day because you can basically iron it out flat very easily (I have a few baby-dresses patterns from the era that have the same concept). I don't think it would end up looking too hot on me... definitely like the look of the Saturday Morning one though!!!

I wonder how Butterick decided which of their retro styles they would reproduce... and I wonder, if we mounted some kind of internet campaign, if they would bring back Saturday Morning?!?

I don't wear sleeveless because of some major scars, so I never seriously considered the walkaway dress.

I've seen some fairly elegant versions, but there is something about it I can't stand, even if I did put sleeves on it, and so I've never bothered with it. It's a big Bleh. I can't work up excitement either way on it.

I have the pattern for it but I haven't yet got around to making it. Some of the reviews I've read of it haven't been exactly glowing, so for right now I'm just satisfied with looking at the pretty picture on the pattern envelope.

I haven't seen the Saturday morning dress before, but I'll be looking out for it now!

I like the idea of the walk-away, but I haven't seen any in the blog world that looked as cute as the drawing on the pattern. It seems to have some issues as a design, or perhaps you just need a tiny corseted waist to wear it.

The Saturday dress looks like it could be adapted for my figure better than the walk-away could be, so if I see it anywhere, I'll be grabbing it.

Hi Gerie, I have just found your blog and really like what you are doing. I am completely with you here. I saw the saturday morning dress before I saw the walkaway dress, and have wondered why you don't see it mentioned more often.

It should be a really easy pattern to copy, for example based on a vintage sheath dress pattern. You would just have to extend the back piece to the front - from the little picture it looks like there are darts in the side. You only need the top from the front piece; the bottom is simply a circle skirt. But of course, I know that it is more fun if you can hold of the original pattern.

See, i loved the walkaway dress when i first came across that pattern. Its just the right thing for a summer sunday in my mind. However, i made it in a beautiful soft green gingham and it just looked horrendous. The most unflattering of dresses in all areas. A vast amount of material now left to hang on a hanger in my wardrobe, never to be worn. I may try to adapt it when i can bring myself to look at it again, but i think it may just be worth saving the material and transforming it into something more beautiful! The second dress is stunning. I wish i could get my hands on a copy of that too! x

Positively nay (if that's not a contadiction in terms.) - Dusky's comment confirms what I suspected. I've never understood how one would fit the walkaway dress, and that aside, it looks to me like it requires a proper girdle underneath even more than most 50s styles.

I really like your blog, by the way - I've been reading along quietly for a couple of weeks now. I'm afraid I'm even going to copy your navy dupion skirt.

I have the Walkaway dress pattern, and the notions to make a version but I haven't started yet. I've heard alot of people complaining about it, and I will see how it goes...but again, its a vintage dress. Its mean for a WAIST. Which alot of modern women don't have so much of, so in order for it to fit well...some sort of girdle might be needed for alot of people. Hence, people probably don't like it (thought personally I love girdles and corsets and such). Also, it can be a very dowdy dress design very easily. I'm making it with cotton, so it will definitly have a "house-dress" sort of vibe no matter how well I make it fit.

I would have to say mostly Nay. Like a lot of people, I have the repro, bought years ago, and have never made it up. I have seen way too many photos of it made up and it just looks so unflattering. (Not to mention negative blog reviews.) I even have the fabric I bought to make it still sitting on my shelf!

However, I've also seen it mentioned that the remake is pretty altered from the original -- even more so than most of the repros, so that could have something to do with it. Of course now I can't remember where I read that, so I could be totally wrong!

Hey, check out this version:http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Butterick_7348The halter-effect neckline seems much more flattering; and from the construction drawing it looks like they've made the underskirt far more secure and less prone to ride up. I would give this one a try, definitely!

I personally think that you would make an awesome version of the Walkaway Dress and should reconsider making one. The most successful ones that I've seen have used amazing cuts of fabric in an awesome print and solid and had awesome buttons.

With a quick Google image search, I found some versions of the Walk-Away Dress that were flattering and some that were not. It seems to me that the main keys are to use the actual vintage pattern rather than the repro, and the woman's body shape. It looks flattering on someone who is relatively slender but amply chested -- a bit Marilyn Monroe -- where it gives a sort of corset effect. Still, even when it is flattering, it's a bit "yodeling in the Swiss alps".

I was unable to find any photos of the Saturday Morning Dress. To me, it just looks like a dress with an apron. A very cute apron, to be sure, but it doesn't really speak to me.

I've made the walkaway dress and hated it. After what seemed like miles and miles of tri-folded bias tape, I came out with a frumpy hospital gown. I found the shoulder straps too wide, and the neckline far too high and the overall cut just a little off. I would go for the sunday morning dress and it seems to solve a lot of my problems with the walkaway.

Nay. The walk away dress never looks as nice as the picture on the pattern. Maybe you need to have a 21" waist to pull it off. I have seen a few of these done up and most of them look like aprons. All that bias trim around the edges is a lot of work. I question the coverage under the arm. I don't see how this will work.

I made the walk-away pattern up a few years ago. It was OK, but definitely not my favorite. I had to make a lot of adjustments to the pattern before it fit correctly, and even then I just didn't like the way it looked on. The second version is lovely, and I have a feeling it would be a little more flattering. ;)

Crazy for the Sat Morning dress! It's the curved waistline that does it for me--so much more interesting to look at than a simple empire waist. I like the idea of the Walkaway, which I own but haven't sewn up, but know already that the extended shoulder would need some serious adjusting for me--that's where the pattern falls apart, and sadly, I see the same issue on the Sat Morning dress... If only I had narrower shoulders!

I'm with you about the walkaway dress. It's so overrated. How does it stay on if you're moving while wearing it? It seems like something like that would fall off or shift into some awkward exposing position...

It would be interesting if someone made both the vintage and repro versions and commented on any differences, don't you think? (I have both, but the vintage one is too small-I bought it anyway at an estate sale for nothing.) I have a repro version of the dress, and no matter what I have tried, it doesn't flatter me at ALL. Hoping to re-purpose the fabric someday!

I love the saturday morning dress! All the more since to me the walkaway dress has always seemed to be worn with the back on the front; it must have to do with the way the waist is enlighted: I simply don't like it that way. Plus I wonder if the pannel on the front wouldn't fly away and let people see what's under your skirt... So it's a big Nay to me, althought I quite fancy her little sister the 'whirl away dress': http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Butterick_5368 The saturday morning one has such lovely details that I wonder why they didn't repro this one instead. Less famous but gorgeous!

Even more than for most patterns, choice of fabric and trim would be essential to pull off such a style. I think we can trust you with that :-).

However I don't think you should get hypnotized by the apparent differences between the walkaway and the sat am... most likely what you're seeing is a difference in -illustration- due to the time difference between the two, not a real difference in pattern. Take a look at the sewretro blog and count the number of times where someone asks 'did you alter the skirt to be narrower' only to be answered 'not at all, the envelope makes it look much fuller'... I think most of what you'd get from the contemporary version is reliable sizing, rather than guessing in the vintage versions.

I agree about the walkaway dress. I'm not a fan of the neckline being cut off at the widest part of your arms. The neckline also doesn't look very flattering for the busty among us. The Saturday morning is much better in both respects. I want to picnic in that dress!

I think the black & white version has some merit, but it looks a little tricky - to me that means it's got some problems. But maybe this gets into the drawing of the dress on the pattern envelope. No one has a waist that small, no matter what the optical illusion!

It was funny to see your post today. My local Fabric Store has Butterick patterns on sale this week, and I thought it would be a great time to stock up on patterns. As I was going through their patterns I noticed the Walkaway Repro pattern, and considered it but to me it looks a lot like an apron. Nothing I would consider glamourous or that I would want to wear.

FYII made the walkaway dress and had the same problem. It just doesn't fit well and I thought that the bias tape around the edges would be far easier than any other kind of finishing but my G-d. The waist line is too low, the shoulders too wide as is the skirt. I've a sneaking suspicion that it was meant to the work with a crinoline skirt underneath as the fullness (especially in larger sizes) is no good.

I want to make it again but with significant alterations.

Also the underskirt does ride up especially when I'm wearing tights. It was such a disappointment.

I love the look of the pattern but in concept only. I think it might look good on a young girl who wasn't too full in the bust. Or it might need to be made with a tight fitted corset to keep the lines crisp. Otherwise I am afraid it would look off balanced. The second pattern has a much more tailored yet anyone could wear it look.

I also made the walkaway, it looked so pretty on the packet. My dress was just horrible, so u.g.l.y!!! There was just no way to fix it and make it any better. But i might try making the Saturday morning dress, it looks a bit less like a hospital gown. Great discussion!!

I found a very cool ebay listing for a walkaway variant:http://cgi.ebay.com/LOVELY-VTG-1950s-WRAP-FRONT-DRESS-Sewing-Pattern-14-32_W0QQitemZ360210773009QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53de3c3411#ht_2847wt_948

Thought it would be an interesting thing to see. I definitely think it's a cooler pattern.

In the autobiography "Our Hearts Were Young and Gay" about a trip to Europe in the 1920s, Cornelia Otis skinner writes about a dress that could possibly be an ancestress. The Google books clip is here: http://books.google.com/books?id=MUUp2Eu1CQQC&lpg=PP1&ots=m0FJgm67Es&dq=our%20hearts%20were%20young%20and%20gay%20dress&pg=PA205#v=onepage&q=dress&f=false

I carefully altered the walkaway for a full bust and narrow back. I basically built a belt into the waist area and it closes with a cummerbund buckle. Hate the dress. I wear it plenty as a housedress, it is cool and comfortable and twirly, but it doesn't sit right under my arms. Also the front "sheath" panel always looks shorter than the rest of the dress. I might make another one or two for housedresses, but I'd never wear it anywhere further away than my backyard. I really really wanted this to be a holy grail of a dress, but it wasn't meant to be.

I disagree that the walkaway dress doesn't work for a curvy girl! I am VERY voluptuous and love my walkaway dress! It conceals a big butt, accentuates a bigger waistline and is easy to sew. Keep in mind, this is a dress from 1952. When it was designed, it was intended to be worn with the proper foundation garments: a girdle, a supportive bra and a crinoline. Without the proper foundation garments, it obviously won't look right!

Sorry you hate the walk away dress... I was turned off at first but for .99 cents I couldn't resist it is now my favorite dress..and yes it fits a little funny, but I've gotten so many compliments from men and women alike. I am a size 12 and it looks awesome on me...but to each its own... However I am also on the look out for the saturday morning dress at a lower price. Here is a link I found on etsy if you are still interested. I also so a scan of the walk away dress for a little girl and I'd like to make on for my daughter. Great Blog... new follower... can't wait to read more

I'm stalking your archives and 2 things: 1.) Your blog is the best thing ever and 2.) I made the Walkaway last winter in grey wool with black bias binding. I love it! I wasn't sure how the heaviness of the wool would work but it has worked very well. The heaviness just seems to make it more drapey and swingy, which is nice. I did have to shorten it like 9 inches or something crazy like that because I hate tea length too and I'm 5'3".

Hi there! Just stumbled onto your blog. I know this pattern has issues but am surprised at all the nays! I made it but have since found many other versions and would like to try again changing the neckline. I've since made a blouse as well. You can see my dress here, along with the blouse in the links there~http://www.thescarlettrosegarden.com/2009/04/were-off-to-see-wizard.html

I don't like the Walk-away dress at all; I googled images to see it made up and many look indeed like hospital gowns - it seems a difficult pattern to fit successfully. Use your time to make something fabulous!

My daughter is getting ready to make this dress. I made the usual pattern adjustments for her body. It didn't look bad on her when I pinned it together to see how it fit her. Since she loves 1940's/50's styles, I feel this will be a good project for her to learn how to make darts and apply binding especially on her basic machine.

A big NAY! Ive seen soooo many bad colour/print choices for this dress that ive been too scared to make my own.when do eventually sew this boring beast i want to add sleeves and a bow front closure. the saturday morning dress and 1940 precursor kick the 1950 patterns ass. no vintage sewing lass wants to see someone else wearing the same sewn dress. i wish the major pattern companies would rerelease more of their backcatalogue. variety = good. (P.s can anyone work out how the saturday morning dress closes?)

I've made the walkaway dress...well sort of...it was my first ever dress (involved a lot of shouting at the sewing machine...till I eventually finished it by hand sewing). Although I never actually 'finished' it properly as I've not found a closure I thought would be secure enough so that I wouldn't have a costume malfunction.

I love the walk away! ( I have the repo pattern) I have made two dress from that pattern. Well one is costumish for swedish midsummer. The other dress is a multi textured all white. The Swedish one I wear once a year, more if I was a football fan in Buenos Aires. And the white one I wore when I was in vacationing in Paris. I actually want to make another soon for outside winter time in New York. It's great for me since I am newbie at sewing. The variations that were done on both dresses were I added inseam like pockets on inside part ( I am a inseam pocket skirt/ dress girl) and on the white dress I added a white contrasting texture lining, also I added snaps around the underarm area and little hook and eyes to secure the dress. Oh and I added some contrasting yellow and blue ribbon trim on the costume.

As for the Saturday I would LOVE, LOVE, LOVE for Butterick to do a repo! I am still way not good enough to do Full bust (36H) alterations on an original if I was ever lucky to find one.

Big as I am this dress is a "yea" due to comfort factor. I have not even made it yet but can tell it is very comfortable. I think I have it at home (that's a shame that I can't remember). Funny thing I purchased a pattern years ago; gave it away, and now that I am old and fat I want one.

I bet it's possible to alter the Walk Away into the Saturday Morning. It looks like one would just have to turn it backwards, alter the darts, and make it have a waistband. I already have the Walk Away, so I may give it a shot.