QUE: At the very least, ride the Aiguille du Midi tram to the mountaineering museum. Then navigate the fixed line down the ridge and rip into the more doable runs of the Vallée Blanche, an unmaintained glacier with all the dangers pertaining thereto. Hire a guide to stay safe and find the goods.

OÙ: In a town where people come to live on the edge, you can expect to rage. Belly up to Elevation 1904 and do Fernet shots.