This blog is dedicated to news, events, profiles and reviews of fine food and wine in the Hudson River Valley. We especially feature and spotlight the burgeoning wineries of the Hudson River Region. We accept and will relay information about releases, events, festivals and any toher happening related to food and wine in the Hudson River Valley. Send pertitnent information to hudsonriverwine@yahoo.com

About Me

Carlo DeVito is a long time wine lover, and author of books and magazine articles. He is the author of Wineries of the East Coast. He has traveled to wine regions in California, Canada, up and down the east coast, France, Spain and Chile. He has been a published executive for more than 20 years. He shepherded the wine book program of Wine Spectator as well as worked with Kevin Zraly, Oz Clarke, Matt Kramer, Tom Stevenson, Evan Dawson, Greg Moore, Howard Goldberg, and many other wine writers. He has also published Salvatore Calabrese, Jim Meehan, Clay Risen, and Paul Knorr.
Mr. DeVito is the inventor of the mini-kit which has sold more than 100,000,000 copies world wide. He has also publisher such writers as Stephen Hawking, E. O Wilson, Philip Caputo, Gilbert King, James McPherson, John and Mary Gribbin, Thomas Hoving, David Margolick, Arthur M. Schlesinger Jr., John Edgar Wideman, Stanley Crouch, Dan Rather, Dee Brown, Susie Bright, and Eleanor Clift.
He is also the owner of Hudson-Chatham Winery, co-founder of the Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail, and president of the Hudson Valley Wine Country.
https://carlodevito.wordpress.com/

Thursday, November 06, 2014

WINECOMPASS Raves About Hudson Valley Wines!!!

Although my first posts
concerning TasteCamp focused on cider and spirits, the Hudson Valley wine
industry was the primary focal point of the trip. During the weekend, I probably
tasted close to 75 New York wines, with about half Hudson River Region (HRR)
designated. Leading up to the weekend, I gained a better knowledge and
appreciation of the Hudson Valley by participating in a #WineStudio series
focusing on the region. For instance, the Hudson Valley is home to the oldest
continually operating winery in the U.S. (Brotherhood
America's Oldest Winery) as well as the oldest continually used vineyard,
now part of Benmarl
Winery & Vineyard. Wine making did not return to the Hudson in a
commercial sense, post prohibition, until the Farm Winery Bill was passed in
1976. The drivers of that project were John Dyson - the State Commissioner of
Agriculture - and owner of Millbrook
Vineyards & Winery and John Miller of Benmarl. By utilizing estate grown
grapes (amended two years later to allow any NY grapes), New York wineries
received lower taxes, the ability to sell directly to consumers, and to
self-distribute. And as importantly, it encouraged the retention and growth of
vineyards. Thus, the New York wine industry owes its current renaissance to two
pioneers in the Hudson.

In most cold climate regions, French-Hybrids usually
dominate and in the HRR, Seyval is a leading white grape. Before this weekend I
think the only Seyval I tasted that left an impression was from Linden
Vineyards. In most other cases they were just average nondescript wines.
However, I tasted several tasty Hudson Valley Seyvals - starting with Clinton
Vineyards - who not only, only produce wine from Seyval, but they also
produce champagne methodoise versions. These were quite nice, citrus and
effervescent. Hudson-Chatham
Winery and Glorie
Farm Winery both featured Seyval that were dry, light, fruit forward, with a
lemon-citrus and acidic finish. And the Whitecliff
Vineyard & Winery White Awosting is a very tasty blend of Vignoles and
Seyval Blanc. Another benefit of these Seyval wines are their low price points,
$15 on average.

But, let's talk Hudson River Region vinifera.
Starting with whites, I tasted several nice Rieslings over the weekend, with
most produced from fruit sourced from the Finger Lakes. The exception was Tousey
Winery, where we were provided a vertical tasting of their 2011 to 2013
Estate Grown Hudson River Rieslings. These wines were fantastic, each different,
but showcasing the stone fruits and acidity inherent and American Riesling.
Owners Kimberly and Ben Peacock have an interesting story as well, agreeing to
take over operations while visiting from Europe. It also helps that Peter Bell,
of Fox
Run Vineyards, is a consultant. Millbrook
Vineyards & Winery also produces a HRR Riesling in their Dry Riesling
Proprietor's Special Reserve -- another solid wine. Millbrook also produces a
very respectable chardonnay, as well as one of my favorites of the weekend - the
2013 Proprietor’s Special Reserve Tocai Friulano. Simply delicious. And talking
about trendsetters; Millbrook has been growing Tocai Friulano since 1985.

Moving to red wines, the Hudson River Region appears to
be a bright sport for Cabernet Franc and Baco Noir. Once again Millbrook
Vineyards & Winery provided our party with a solid offering in their
Proprietor’s Special Reserve Cabernet Franc. This was followed by the Glorie
Farm Winery estate Cabernet Franc - which quickly became a TasteCamp
favorite. And count Tousey
Winery as another winery producing a solid cab franc. While driving around
the Marlboro area the day after TasteCamp, I stumbled upon newly opened Brunel
and Rafael Winery. Check out their Hudson River Region Cabernet Franc. My
favorite goes to Benmarl's 2012 Ridge Road Estate Cabernet Franc. This is the
bomb. One of the best wines of the weekend.

Our host for TasteCamp was the proprietor of Hudson-Chatham
Winery, Carlo Devito. Carlo planned the entire weekend, which included a
lunch tasting of area wines and ciders at his winery - all this in the middle of
harvest. While his winemaker Stephen Casscles & crew crushed grapes, Carlo
also opened his entire portfolio for us to sample. And this included several
Baco Noirs, Carlo's most famous wines. There are not many producers of this
hybrid anymore, but Hudson-Chatham specializes in Baco Noir as we sampled four
vineyard designate wines. The estate vineyard at Hudson-Chatham, North Creek
Vineyard, has four year old vines growing in Block 3 - hence the Block 3 North
Creek Vineyard Baco Noir. The also produce theCasscles Middle Hope Baco Noir
from a vineyard Casscles planted while in high school. What foresight. My
favorite two were from Mason Place Vineyard, the Field Stone Baco - Old Stones
& Old Vines - Mason Place Vineyard and the Old Vines Mason Place Vineyard.
This last wine is outstanding, the grapes harvested from 60 year old vines.

There were also several other reds to praise, in
particular, the
Hudson-Chatham Winery Chelois, Clearview
Vineyard Noiret, and Whitecliff
Vineyard & Winery Reserve Gamay Noir. First, who in the U.S. even
produces a Chelois outside of Hudson-Chatham. Second, its a killer wine. The
Clearview Noiret was easily the best I've ever tasted from this Cornell bred
grape. And the Whitecliff Gamay Noir was simply spectacular.

There are
many other wines I know I am omitting, but I'm trying to be brief. Tastecamp was
a great education and experience. Looking forward to returning soon, hopefully a
tour of the southern Shawangunk Wine
Trail. Cheers.