Reporters on the job

September 15, 2008

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Cultural crossroads: Gnawan musicians, like the one above in Marrakesh, Morocco, are carrying on the musical and spiritual traditions brought north across the Sahara centuries ago by black slaves. Today, the Gnawa are enjoying a renewed interest in their music and customs.

"In 2004, the Iraqi Army, which was then called the Iraqi Civil Defense Corps, was basically just a bunch of guys with guns," recalls Tom. "I remember watching one soldier rest his head on the muzzle of a loaded rifle to take a nap. They just weren't all that professional."

Two years later, Tom accompanied a unit into battle. "While they managed to eventually defeat insurgents, it's fairly telling that the only casualty came from an Iraqi soldier who accidentally shot himself in the leg.