Hello tropical fish keeping, I am Robert. I have had several aquariums, a 10 gal, a 29 gal, and now just a 10 gal. I will be upgrading here in the not to distant future, and was just wanting to run my equipment selections by some fellow hobbyists.

Here is what I have chosen; A 36x12x24 glass aquarium, two Fluval C2 power filters, Marineland single bright 36-48 led lights, and a ViaAqua Titanium 250 watt submersible heater.

The aquarium will most likely house some green tiger barbs, some blue gouramis, a mollie or two, oto cats or cory cats, and if I decide to chance it a red tailed shark. I am going to steer clear of plants, but maybe someday.

Not sure on the numbers of which yet, that remains to be seen, but this is what I am looking at.

So whats the consensus, equipment wise? Im even willing to take advice on the stock as well.

This tank would definetly be overstocked. I would personally in a 10 gallon get 3 dwarf corys, 1 male betta (or a smaller gourami) ,1 mystery snail , and 3 to 5 small tetras. As for the equipment I do not know much in that topic.

This tank would definetly be overstocked. I would personally in a 10 gallon get 3 dwarf corys, 1 male betta (or a smaller gourami) ,1 mystery snail , and 3 to 5 small tetras. As for the equipment I do not know much in that topic.

mollys require hard water, the others will do better in soft, acidic water

RTS can be nasty, I wouldn't attempt keeping one in anything smaller than a 48" tank, wouldn't put corys or otos with it regardless of tank size

tiger barbs are notorious fin nippers and will likely target a gourami, this and the high activity level of the barbs (gourami are calmer by nature) may stress the blue gourami, which are hit and miss regardless, but if stressed will be much more likely to cause trouble

The site here has a profile for both of the fish, you can read them by clicking on the blue names in the post here. Blue Gourami and Tiger Barb. They list good tank mate ideas, along with other behavior characteristics. Both fish can be aggressive. With the Blue Gourami it depends on the fish, some are worse than others, and it gets worse with age.

EDIT: Opps, forgot to talk about equipment like you were originally asking for ;)

Go with either a single HOB, or a canister. A canister costs more, but as mentioned is a lot quieter and also gives a lot more flexibility in the type of filter media you use. I know a lot of people hate HOBs, but I'm indifferent to them and use them myself on smaller tanks.

For the light, that's fine if you want LEDs. If it comes with a blue 'night time' light don't use it, fish need periods of total darkness just like we do.

I concur with what other members have posted here. I'll just respond to one comment, as you mentioned having the barb and gourami now with no problem, by which I am assuming your point is that they are together. This may not last.

Fish are the way they are because that is how nature made them. Gourami are slow sedate fish that live in swamps and similar still bodies of water, cruising among thick vegetation. They become skittish with active fish around them, which all barb are. They may not show this externally, but they will be stressed, and that means trouble is near at hand because stress weakens the fish's immune system and uses more energy just for that (handling the stress) rather than for other normal needs like maintaining the immune system, keeping the fish's blood at a steady pH, etc.

Then there is the nipping issue. Tiger Barb are notorious for nipping fins, and a slow gourami is quite a temptation. Keeping the barb in larger groups (8 minimum, but 12 or more is better) and in a large space (a group of 8-12 in a 30g tank on their own is the minimum) can sometimes restrict this nipping to within the group. But barb and sedate fish should never be combined; the stress from just the presence of the barb is risk enough.

Sometimes fish for various reasons do not exhibit their normal tendencies. We don't know why. But we do know that the tendency is there, it is part of that species, and we also know that environmental factors can suddenly release it without prior warning. It is always best to assume a particular fish species will be "normal" rather than risk the health and life of any fish.

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian.[unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]