Had beautiful weather. The line we followed up the gully was consistent 4th class with some 3d and a few low class 5 moves. We found a 2d class final section to the top. On descent,we found a 3d class route with plenty of 4th class. Views from anywhere in the vicinity of this peak are hard to believe.

Left high camp at 2:30 in the morning to beat the heat, which made for an incredible sunrise. We took the east ridge when we reached the summit pyramid which was great. Reached the summit at about 6:30 in the morning, and got down off the top before the crowd of everybody else came up. It was a great climb, i really enjoyed it.

Climbed via the Sulphide Glacier route with 200-40 foot
visibility almost the whole day. Thank goodness for GPS points. Summit pyramid gully reminded me of those pictures of winter climbing in Scotland! We climbed the eastern most pinnacle of the four very top summit pinnacles. Judging by other pictures and video it looks like the summit pinnacle we were on is considered the highest, but I could swear the 2 western most pinnacles were at least as high as ours (or higher). No guide book or internet search turned up a distinction. Does anybody out there have know which summit block/pinnacle is truly the highest on Mt. Shuksan?

Fantastic climb with good weather. Interesting route finding. Camped at Lake Ann and summited next day. Got back to tent late and too tired to hike out so spent another night with Nate and Andrew. Vlato and Norman hiked all night to cars to get to jobs.

Perfect summit day - windless, T-shirt weather at the top. Spectacular views! Don't be discouraged by the gnarly appearance of the summit pyramid from afar. It (i.e. the gully) turned out to be a fun class 3/4 scramble. Climbed up and down the pyramid without using a rope which added some excitement.

The week before our summit we experienced howling winds, rain and snow all night long. It was near freezing at 9:30 when we left camp with our head between our legs, soaked to the bone. The next week was clear and warm. I felt lucky to stay the night after the climb without any other teams on the mountain. A spectacular climb and the world’s best bathroom view. Thanks Ken, Pam, John, Karl, and Steve.

Route was in great shape. Incredible views of Mt. Baker and the North Cascades. If going on the weekend, I would recommend getting an early start (3:30-4:00am) to beat the crowds to the summit pyramid.

Alpine Ascents 6 day mountaineering school on Mt ShuksanDate Climbed: May 28, 2008

Group of 12 people incl. 2 guides from AAI. Very interesting school, crevasse rescue was fun. Unfortunately we had bad weather and rain all the time, keeping us from summitting Mt. Shuksan. We camped right below the Sulphide glacier where we did some of our training. 05/28-06/02/2008