Pet Station, P.C.

1220 West Main StreetUnion, MO 63084

(636)583-2858

www.petstationvets.com

INTRODUCING YOUR PUPPY TO A NEW HOME

A new puppy is a source of cheer and warmth everywhere. It is well documented that the companionship of a puppy has positive benefits for people. Even older dogs and cats seem to perk up when a pup is introduced into the household. Puppies give unqualified love, affection, and devotion.

The following things are suggested as "essential" items for your new puppy:

Health records including dates of vaccinations and dewormings.

High quality food.

Food and water bowls that can be easily sanitized.

A shipping crate for a bed.

Shampoo and other proper grooming items.

A collar, leash, and assorted chew toys.

The change of environment can cause many stress-related problems:

Coccidiosis (a type of intestinal infection)

Tracheobronchitis (a relatively minor upper respiratory problem)

Hypoglycemia (low blood-sugar from a poor appetite or poor diet)

Dehydration (usually from not drinking enough water)

These physical problems are often brought on by unavoidable stress, and are similar to problems you might have if you were moving to a new area. Just like you, your puppy may not sleep or eat as regularly as it will in more familiar surroundings. Some puppies ease through the transition to their new homes, while others may have a harder time. If stress-related problems are ignored, secondary problems can become serious or life-threatening.

Call us for advice anytime your puppy seems lethargic, or loses its appetite. The most important object is to get the puppy to eat. Small breeds are more susceptible to hypoglycemia (low blood sugar), and may need additional feedings in small quantities. Some puppies require privacy, coaxing, or companionship to eat. Every puppy is different. Your puppy's diet should never be changed rapidly. Your puppy might not eat the strange new food, or if it does eat, develop diarrhea leading to dehydration and other complications. Diet changes should be made over a 1-2 week period to prevent digestive upsets.

WATER IS EVEN MORE IMPORTANT THAN FOOD IN YOUR PUPPY'S EXCITED FIRST FEW HOURS IN ITS NEW HOME

To encourage your pup to drink and reduce the risk of low blood sugar, you might try putting some honey in its mouth or on a dish. (Too much honey will depress his/her appetite.) If your puppy does not eat after these methods have been tried, you might try warming the food. Many foods are coated with an outside "flavor" layer which enhances its appeal when it is warmed. Most foods can be warmed in the microwave, oven, or by adding warm water or broth and soaking the food for a few minutes. Notify the clinic if your puppy does not eat within 8-12 hours.

Rest is very important to your puppy. Puppies generally sleep throughout the day, waking up only to play for a short time, eat, and eliminate waste. Do not expect the puppy to run and play all day. A human baby does not play all day either. Treat your puppy just the same as if it was a newborn infant being brought home from the hospital, and you couldn't go wrong.

YOUR PUPPY'S FIRST VACCINATION

Congratulations on your decision to adopt a new puppy!! We will do everything possible to help provide you with information on health care to make your pet more enjoyable and insure the best health possible.

A veterinarian should give pups a thorough physical examination! This should be given within 48 hours of purchase to insure that you adopted a healthy pup.

Immunizations should include DISTEMPER, HEPATITIS, LEPTOSPIROSIS, PARVOVIRUS, CORONAVIRUS, RABIES, and BORDETELLA BRONCHITIS. A series of vaccinations is required to build the resistance your puppy requires. Your pup must be 6 weeks to start vaccinations. After a vaccination is given, the puppy may be sore or tired for the rest of the day and cry or whine some. Place the pup in a warm room, offer food and water, and let it sleep. Do not give Aspirin or Tylenol? these medications can be fatal in young pups!

Pups are DEWORMED on the first 2 visits for "roundworms" and "hookworms." You may see roundworms pass in the stool for a day or so after deworming. Hookworms are too small to be seen with the naked eye, although they are the most serious "worm" in puppies. Your puppy should not vomit or develop diarrhea from the medications - let us know if this should occur. TAPEWORMS require a special type of medication. Watch the pup's stools for small, white segments, looking similar to rice. Notify the clinic if these segments are observed so the pup can be dewormed for tapeworms.

Puppies are not immune to Distemper and Parvovirus until at least 2 weeks after the last injection in the puppy series of vaccines. The puppy may get sick with these diseases anytime before the entire vaccination series is finished. Do not expose your new puppy to other dogs any more than is absolute necessary until we finish the immunization series. Another dog may not be showing any signs of illness, but may still be a "carrier" or many infectious diseases harmful to your new puppy.

After exposure to a disease, it takes time for the puppy to show clinical signs of illness. Therefore it is impossible to be absolutely sure that your puppy is healthy and free of contagious disease for at least 2 weeks after you obtain him/her. Please call us if any abnormal changes are seen, such as vomiting, diarrhea, listlessness, coughing, sneezing, or loss of appetite.

Heartworm disease is very fatal is dogs. They can contract this disease through mosquitoes! Heartworm preventative is usually started at 8 weeks of age. We recommend giving heartworm preventative year round.

Female dogs should be spayed before 6 months of age. We can do the spay as early as 3 months old as long as she weighs 3 pounds. It is much easier on the dog when spay before she goes through the first "heat" cycle, usually at 6 months of age. Male dogs should be neutered at 3-5 months of age.

RETURN IN 3 WEEKS FOR THE NEXT VACCINATION IN THE SERIES. FEEL FREE TO CALL US FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, ADVICE, OR CONCERNS.

HOUSETRAINING YOUR PUPPY

HOUSETRAINING ACCIDENTS IN THE HOUSE ARE THE MAJOR REASON MANY PUPPIES LOSE THEIR HOME.

Housetraining is not that hard once you understand how to do it. Housetraining involves: Feeding High Quality Food, Having a Definite, Consistent Feeding Schedule, Using An Airline Shipping Crate, and Lots of Patience!!!

First of all, remember that a young puppy is just like a "baby in diapers." It takes time for the puppy to grow to the point that it can control its eliminations. For that reason, it is important to immediately purchase an air-line shipping crate. Your puppy should stay in the crate whenever it is not under your direct supervision during the next 6-8 weeks!

DOGS ARE CLEAN ANIMALS - THEY DO NOT WANT TO "MESS UP" WHERE THEY SLEEP.

They also are "den" animals, which mean they like to be in small confined areas because they feel more secure. In the wild, you will find that dogs make their homes in caves and other similar areas where all sides are protected except for the one they enter and can watch when lying down. The crate can later be used as the dog's bed - making it comfortable staying in the crate if it must be shipped by airline sometime later.

CRATES SHOULD BE LARGE ENOUGH FOR THE PUPPY TO STAND UP AND TURN AROUND.

Do not get a crate that is too large; allow a little "growing room." A small room in the house, such as a bathroom will not work, it is still too large. If the puppy "messes up," we want it to have to stay close to the elimination for a while to reinforce the need to "hold it until it gets to go outside."

The idea is that if the puppy is going to "mess up," we want it to do it somewhere easy to clean up. These plastic cages are easily washed out and made ready for use again if an accident occurs. It is important to use a high-quality pet shampoo with a balanced PH to bathe your pet. Over-the-counter shampoos are too acidic and will cause the hair coat to dry out and the skin to be scaly.

WHEN THE PUPPY IS PLACED IN THE CRATE, DO NOT SHOW IT ANY ATTENTION WHATSOEVER!!

Any attention you show, such as talking to it, sticking your finger through the door to pet it, or even yelling at it, will allow your puppy to train you instead of you training the puppy. If attention is shown while in the crate, the puppy will quickly learn that all it has to do it bark, howl, or whine to get more attention.

Starting the first night, locate your puppy in the crate in a separate room and turn on a radio so you will not have to listen to it. After a week or so you will be amazed that the puppy now accepts its new "bed" willingly.

When the puppy is removed from the crate, take it outside immediately. If he/she does not do "its business," place it back in the crate and try again in 5 minutes. Many puppies become so excited when they get outside that they forget what they are supposed to do! It does not take them long to learn that their reward for "doing its business" is to get to stay out of the crate. Be sure to praise the puppy when it does eliminate. Take it to the same spot every time. Most puppies are fully capable of holding their urine for 8-10 hours if they really want to do so. Since they are really very clean animals, and don't want to mess up where they must stay, you will be surprised how easy it is to housetrain your new puppy by following these rules.

Remember, high quality food results in much less stool volume and less odor.

NOTE:

You must be sure to feed your puppy early enough so that it has sufficient time to have its bowel movement before placing it in the crate when you go to work or go to bed. Water should be available free choice to the puppy when it is not confined in the crate. Water or food should not be provided in the crate. Always give the puppy the opportunity to go outside before placing it in the crate. Always take it outside IMMEDIATELY when letting it out of the crate. When the puppy is left out of the crate, it is important that you are able to keep one eye on the puppy. Watch for the telltale signs of the need to eliminate: circling, restlessness, sniffing, etc. The puppy should be taken outside after:

Each meal

Anytime it drinks a lot of water

When it is taken out of the crate

Just before being confined in the crate

After playing hard, getting excited, or chewing on its hard toys

When he/she is Circling, Sniffing, Restless, Etc

When you take your puppy outside and nothing happens, put it back in the crate for a few minutes and try again. Puppies are smart and quickly learn what to do if you will just be patient. We have used this method of housetraining for thousands of puppies. It works if you will just follow these directions carefully. It is the easiest and "least messy" way we have found. Let us know if you have problems- we will be glad to help you.

Remember, most housetraining accidents are the fault of the OWNER, not the dog!

Chewing

Puppies are CHEWING machines!!!

The inherited tendency to investigate the surroundings is very strong in the young dog. Your success preventing chewing problems depends on how effectively you can channel your pup's tendency toward acceptable chews, rather than unacceptable items. Between the ages of 3 and 6 months, your puppy will begin to teethe. Just like babies, puppies chew to relieve some of the discomfort associated with the eruption of the permanent teeth. Puppies also chew to explore their environment as a form of play. It makes little difference to a puppy whether he or she chews on a toy or on a pair of your favorite shoes. He needs your help and direction in chewing on what is appropriate and what is not.

The two distinct periods when excessive chewing is likely to occur are during the teething period at three months of age, and during the time when the permanent teeth become set in the jaw between 6-12 months. Regardless of these times, the young puppy will continually attempt to investigate objects with his mouth. It is at this age that he/she must be taught what is acceptable or chew and what is not!

A common mistake people frequently make is to provide chewable objects that, in texture, resemble valued objects. The puppy cannot distinguish between rawhide chews, an old shoe, and a good shoe! If he or she learns that chewing any leather product is acceptable, then all leather products become fair game.

Another problem, often overlooked, concerns the pup's ingestion of harmful objects. We periodically have to remove needles, bones, and small toys from the stomach of puppies.

Follow These Tips to Help Your Pup Properly:

Never leave a puppy unattended unless he's RESTRICTED to a damage-proof area. We highly suggest airline-shipping crates for confinement during the first 4-8 weeks. This also helps greatly with housetraining.

Never allow products that can be swallowed or chewed into splinters. We do not recommend rawhide chew toys, other than CET chews, which help keep the teeth clean.

When the pup beings to chew something he shouldn't, don't correct him with a raised voice, just remove the object. IMMEDIATELY offer him one of these chews, but do not force it into his mouth. Simply place it before him and praise.

After he's finished with the acceptable chew, spray the unacceptable item with rubbing alcohol, and put it into this mouth. Praise him when he spits it out. Repeat several times. Bitter Apple spray can also be used. If he doesn't spit it out, generously spray a cotton ball with the product and place it briefly in his mouth. Then follow with the unacceptable item. Give him a cracker to help clear the unpleasant taste.

Periodically take him; never call him to those unacceptable items, which he previously chewed. Remind him to stay away by very lightly spraying them with the product, then try inserting it into his mouth. Praise him when he avoids it or spits it out. Get into the habit of looking for trouble before it occurs.

If your pet chews or eats something, which you think could be potentially harmful, call the clinic for advice. There is a national hotline for antidotes for poisoning: (217) 333-3611.

Behavioral Problems

Dogs and other people have lived together for thousands of years but that doesn't mean we always understand each other. Living with pets can sometimes be as frustrating and confusing as living with other people!

Dogs are PACK ANIMALS. They are social and like to interact with people and other dogs. Your dog will do what you want it to do if it earns him praise or petting and he considers you to be the leader of his pack. All dog packs have a leader dog that makes decisions for the rest of the group. Other dogs are subordinate to the leader. Your dog should never think he is the leader in your house. You are the one who should decide when to eat, when to go out, etc. As with children, dogs that have rules to follow and respect for their parents are well behaved. Many behavior problems are a direct result of a lack of leadership on the part of the owner.

Dogs behave as they prefer knowing that you are in charge, and often seem much happier when they understand that you have taken charge. Following the advice below may be harder on you than on your dog! It's lonely at the top, so give your dog a break and take over. He'll love you just as much.

Keep in mind that dogs are very sensitive to body language and visual cues. Behaviors that you don't think much about may have meaning to your dog in a way that may not be what you intended to say! For instance, two people talking face to face are confrontational in a dog's body language. Standing side by side is not. You can learn to take advantage of nonverbal clues to your dog.

The following suggestions are an effective and humane way to let your dog know that is safe, well-loved, and not the leader of the pack. Keep in mind that love is not related to social status and that most dogs live in relaxed harmony when the social hierarchy is clear, no matter where they stand in it.

It's not good to cater to your dog. Your dog's behavior should drive your decisions on how to treat it. If your dog has always been a perfect gentleman, you may not need to change a thing you are doing. But if your dog gives you problems, follow these suggestions.

If it bites you, totally ignore it to notify if there's been a change in the household. Don't speak to it or look at it, even when feeding or letting it out. Then follow this program for at least a month before giving any slack. Applying "social distance" when your pet is misbehaving and rewarding with praise and attention only when it is good is the key to good behavior. Reward the behavior you want to see continued!

TRAINING STRATEGIES

Petting:

Keep it brief and pet only for obedience. Reward obeying commands with attention. If your dog demands petting, either look away (fold arms, turn head up and away from the dog) or ask for a sit or down and then pet when it obeys. If you want to pet your dog, call it to you, don't go to it.

Practice "Look Always"

Don't let your dog demand play, food, or petting. IF your dog gets pushy, simply cross your arms, turn your head upward and to the side away from the dog. If your dogs counter acts by moving to your other side, turn your head the other way. This is good practice to do any time your dog approaches you if he is very dominant and pushy. It is especially important if your dog has been aggressive towards you.

Teach "Lie Down and Stay"

A good solid down and stay is one of the best learning tools. It teaches your dog to be patient and to wait for your command. You can practice while watching TV. Start with one-second stays for the first few days, and work up longer and longer ones. After three weeks, most dogs can handle a half-hour down stay during a quiet time of the day. Correct breaks with a body block or a downward leash correction --- not by simply repeating "down" and "stay" over and over again. If your dog gets up 25 times, then correct it 25 times with the same actions and tone of voice. Do not include anger in your correction. BE FIRM!

"Wait At the Door"

The pack leader has priority meaning they get to push out the door first to get something they want. This is why a lot of dogfights occur at doorways over who gets to go out first. Control the space in front of the dog and you control the dog. Use body blocks or head toward a door or doorway and then suddenly turn and go the other way if your dog tries to get a head of you. This puts you back in the lead. Praise and pet your dog when it starts to turn around after you, keep moving until it reaches you. Practice this as you move around the house until your dog is content to stay behind you and follow your lead.

"Four on the floor"

Dogs interpret an increase in height as an increase in status. Dogs that sleep up on the bed are especially impressed with themselves. Keep dominant dogs on the floor, not up on the chairs, couches, or bed. If you want to cuddle, get down on the floor, ask for obedience, and then pet when your dog complies.

Teach "Heel": Leaders are in the lead:

Teach your dog to stay at your side while you initiate pace and direction. This basic obedience program should make treating any other behavioral problems easier. A dog that looks to you for direction can be taught almost anything. It will be happy to work for what it wants and it helps keep its mind occupied constructively. Integrate this training into your day by asking your pet to perform some action whenever it wants to go outside, be fed, play ball, etc. Letting you be in charge will soon become second nature to the dog. Most problem dog behaviors are NORMAL dog behaviors that are simply unacceptable to humans they live with. Redirecting and retraining can make our canine companions better and happier pets.

A few more tips:

Do your homework! There are plenty of good books available to assist you in training your dog. Be cautious, as there are many philosophies of how to train a dog. Outdated or cruel methods are still widely available to you in print. Much progress has been made in the past few years in understanding how dogs think and learn. We are able to deal with problem behaviors much more effectively once we understand how a dog's mind thinks. Read more than one book and pick the methods that make the most sense to you. Consult with our staff if you are having problems. In severe cases, we may refer you to a pet behavioral specialist.

Consider using the Gentle Leader. This is a different style of training collar, which takes advantage of the dogs' natural response over the muzzle and behind the ears rather than a choke collar. Gentle Leaders are more humane and more effective in solving several behavioral problems.

Using food as a reward for learning new commands is OK, but don't give a food reward every time. Giving food intermittently means your dog will perform commands for you even when you don't have food, and also prevents weight gain. Keep all training positive and consistent. Call us to discuss any specific problems that develop with your pet.

CRATE TRAINING FOR PUPPY

An airline shipping crate or wire crate provides guaranteed confinement of your puppy for reasons of security, safety, travel, and housetraining. Dogs love crates! It is their "own private place" - a "security blanket." The crate helps to satisfy the "den instinct" inherited from their ancestors. If your dog would have his/her choice, he would most likely take having his life controlled and secured by his owner, rather than being punished later for causing trouble. Failure to housebreak a dog is a major reason many dogs eventually end up in the animal shelter!

The crate has many advantages for both you and your pet when it is correctly and humanely used. YOU CAN:

Enjoy complete peace of mind when leaving your dog at home alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, protected, and not developing any bad habits.

Housebreak your dog more quickly by using the close confinement to encourage control, establish a regular routine for outdoor elimination, and to prevent "accidents" at night or when he/she is left unsupervised.

Effectively confine your dog at times when he/she may be underfoot (meals, family activities, unwelcome guests, workmen, etc.), over-excited or bothered by too much confusion, too many children or illness.

Travel with your dog without risk of the driver being dangerously distracted or the dog getting loose and hopelessly lost, and with the assurance that he can easily adapt to any strange surroundings as long as he has his familiar "security blanket" along.

Your dog can:

v Enjoy the privacy and security of a "den" of his own; to which he can retreat when tired, stressed, or ill.

v Avoid much of the fear/confusion/punishment caused by your reaction to problem behavior.

v More easily learn to control his bowels and to associate elimination only with the outdoors or other designated location.

v Be spared the loneliness and frustration of having to be isolated (basement, garage, outside) from comfortable indoor surroundings when being restricted or left alone.

v Be conveniently included in family outing, visits and trips instead of being left behind at home. You want to enjoy your puppy and be pleased with his/her behavior. Your puppy wants little more from life than to please you. A dog crate can help to make your relationship what each of you wants and needs it to be.

Crate Cost:

Even the most expensive dog crate is a "bargain" when compared to the cost of repairing or replacing a sofa, chair, woodwork, wallpaper, or carpeting! Always buy one that is airline approved.

Crate Size:

A crate should always be large enough to permit your dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head on top. It is always better to use a crate a little too large rather than one a little too small. Measure the dog from the tip of the nose to the base (not tip) of the tail. Allow for growth by adding about 12 inches. A crate too large can be made smaller by adding a portion of wire, wood, or another safe material. Remember that a crate too large for a young puppy defeats its purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control.

LOCATION:

Since one of the main reasons for using a crate is to confine a dog without making him feel isolated or banished, it should be placed in, or as close to, a "people" area - kitchen, family room, etc. To provide even a greater sense of security and privacy, it should be put back in a corner. Admittedly, a dog crate is not a "thing of beauty," but it can be forgiven for not being a welcome addition to the household décor as it proves how much it can help the dog to remain a welcome addition to the household.

CRATING A PUPPY:

A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should normally have no problem accepting a crate as his "own place." Any complaining he might do at first is not caused by the crate, but by his learning to accept the controls of his new environment. Actually, the crate will help him adapt more easily and quickly to his new world.

Make it clear to all family members that the crate is not a playhouse. It is meant to be a "special room" for the puppy, whose rights should be recognized and respected. You should, however, accustom your puppy from the start to letting you reach into the crate at any time, lest he/she becomes overprotective of it.

Establish a "crate routine" immediately, closing your puppy in it at regular intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times can guide you) and whenever he must be left alone for up to 3-4 hours. Give him a chew toy for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could get caught in an opening.

The puppy should be taken outside last thing every night before being put into the crate. Once he goes into the crate, he should stay there until first thing in the morning. IMMEDIATELY when the puppy is removed from the crate, he should be taken to the chosen area for his bowel eliminations.

After the puppy is fully housetrained (usually 8-12 weeks of cage use), you simply can leave the door open (or take it off) and allow the puppy to come and go as he chooses. If the puppy becomes destructive during his/her growth phases, it is a simple matter again of confining him in the crate when he/she is not being supervised.

Even if things do not go too smoothly at first, DON'T WEAKEN and DON'T WORRY! Be consistent, firm, and be very aware that you are doing your dog a real favor by preventing him from getting into trouble.

HEALTHY HOME MADE TREATS FOR YOUR PETJ

Most commercially available pet treats are not nutritionally balanced for your pet and can lead to digestive problems, weight gain, and heart problems from high salt content, etc. The following home made treats will allow your pet to stay on its regular diet while making them feel "special" and spoiled.

CANNED PET FOOD

Cut into bite-sized pieces and bake in your microwave for about 2 ? -3 minutes. This will change the texture but not damage the nutrients, and is an excellent treat for your pet, while still feeding the necessary diet.

ALTERNATIVE MICROWAVE RECIPE

Sliced canned pet food into ? to ?' thick pieces. Place 3 "cookies/patties" on a plate. Bake on high for 3 minutes on the first side; turn over and bake for 1 minute on "high" on the other side.

DRY PET FOOD

Grind the kibbles into flour using a blender and then mix with enough water to form dough. Shape into "cookies" and bake them on a cookie sheet in the oven for approximately ? hour at 350 degrees, until crispy.

OTHER RECOMMENDED PET TREATS AVAILABLE FROM YOUR VETERINARIAN

Prescription Diet T/D is designed to help keep the teeth clean. It is available for dogs and cats.

CET CHEWS are a rawhide treated with enzymes to help keep the teeth clean.