Skincare researchers thinking out of the box

Not ones to be left behind, high-tech, skincare researchers and developers are now looking for ingredients in the most common of places, such as in gardens, trees and more.In the world of botanicals, where many beauty ingredients come from, there is so much more exploring to do, says Dr Marcus McFerren, a dermatologist and ethnobotanist based in Danbury, Connecticut, who recently consulted with Origins on its newest anti-aging, plant-based product called Plantscription. McFerren says less than 5 percent of plants have been tested, and fewer, of course, are used for cosmetic purposes.

“Sometimes with plants, you’ll find something that’s good, but you can’t use it commercially because it’s too rare or too hard to get, so you look for plants with similarities,” adds Lieve Declercq, a plant physiologist and molecular biologist for the brand.

Dr Andrew Weil, a leading proponent of integrative medicine, says he has stumbled upon new ingredients on his travels or from his broader network of natural-product enthusiasts. He promotes use of evening-primrose oil, black currant oil and Japanese medicinal mushrooms, for example, in the treatment of the skin, particularly to reduce inflammation.

“I look for novel ingredients with useful properties that meet specific needs,” he says.Origins’ big new launch, Plantscription, is being sold as a botanical-based anti-aging serum that taps into the extract of the African Anogeissus tree, coupled with extracts from the herb rosemary and the Asian shrub siegesbeckia. The serum, designed to diminish wrinkles, also features star anise, an antioxidant, from Asia, and geranium native to Cape of Good Hope, South Africa, used for anti-irritant properties.

Shoppers are hungry for plant-derived products, says Jane Lauder, global president and general manager of Origins. “We’re listening to the consumer who has concerns about prescriptions, and we’re looking for products that will match those results.”