Taste buds will expect something a bit fancier

January 26, 2011|By Kevin PangTribune Newspapers

If you prefer your burgers made from pampered, grass-fed beef and topped with foie gras and Camembert, move along, there's nothing to read here. But if you don't stiffen your upper lip when I say Burger King Whopper, this may be of interest.

Having exhausted all available items to place atop burgers, Burger King is now stuffing ingredients inside its patties. Exhibit A: its Jalapeno & Cheddar BK Stuffed Steakhouse, ($3.99; prices may vary) available through mid-February.

The patty, thicker than your standard Whopper at a third-pound, has the outward appearance of a veggie burger, with globules of cheddar cheese and green bits of jalapeno studded within and around the patty.

Where Burger King has erred is calling it a burger, and, worse yet, affixing the "Steakhouse" brand. It gives the false impression that you're ordering a $15 two-fister from Ruth's Chris, which on first bite, bears that recognizable BK charred flavor. Calling it "steakhouse" may be clever marketing, but it's setting diners up for elevated expectations.

What it is, however, is a patty with the texture and density of meatloaf, not the loose-grain mouth feel of a hamburger. (Call it a meatloaf sandwich, guys! Sounds comfort foodish!)

The meat has a compact sponginess, and it's legitimately spicy (not "fast-food spicy") from jalapenos. The "premium bakery bun" is dusted with cornmeal, having decent texture and a sturdy crust. The sandwich is rounded out with tomatoes, lettuce and a pinkish poblano mayo that tastes like something Bobby Flay had a hand in making. Thing is, the burger tastes like a Whopper, only one size larger with a tad more heat. It is what it is.