Looking into getting a Karnivor

As the title says I am looking into getting an Autococker Karnivor. I am an old school guy that used to play with spiders, automags, and 97 autococker. I am fairly new to the newer electronic markers. With that being said, is there anything I should look out for when looking for a Karnivor? What kind of price range should I be looking to at and is there anything else i should know?

If you are new to kanivors MAKE SURE THE INTERNALS ARE GOOD...if you never used a karni before the internals are shall we say...unique. Very good gun though I have three and may get a fourth one very soon

That sounds good. I still have my 97 autococker from when I played years ago. If the karnivor's internals are simular then I don't see myself having trouble fixing or tuning it. 300-500 does not sound too bad. Thanks guys.

that looks like a nice one, it has the newer frame that came stock with an e2/zero-b. the bigger window is the giveaway. the older frames that came with e1s the window is smaller and offset to the right a little. also has an mp4 ram with the integrated qev's instead of the other one with normal qev's

i had one very similar to that, serial number was even close lol. i really enjoyed it.

I received the Karni and its a work of art. I have not shot it yet but i adjusted the trigger to my liking. It has a nice predictable linear feel to it now. I am wondering about one thing but its just me being picky. Are the solenoid 3 way valve housing threads not the same or slightly smaller than the block it bolts down to?

are you asking if the housing threads and front block noid threads are the same?

they are. Tolerances might be off slightly causing a loose fit. You can either use Teflon tape, loctite, or install a set screw to prevent it from moving.

I am not sure if i follow you but I am talking about the housing that holds the solenoid and bolts up to the block on the gun. Either way your suggestion of using teflon tape is perfect. I can't believe I did not think of it. I know its not a critical item that needs to be tight but I am going to add some teflon tap to make it snug.

I am not sure if i follow you but I am talking about the housing that holds the solenoid and bolts up to the block on the gun. Either way your suggestion of using teflon tape is perfect. I can't believe I did not think of it. I know its not a critical item that needs to be tight but I am going to add some teflon tap to make it snug.

First thing you should probably buy is a barrel back with a smaller bore, they still have the stock Karnivor barrels here and they even come in dust black!!!

Darkapollo: Are you saying get the Karnivor machined? Whats the benefit of it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rebel_816

hes saying just get the barrel you have bored to accept freak inserts. i think most people do it for about $30, then you get the looks of a matching stock barrel and the benefits of a freak kit.

although i havent used anything bigger than .682 or .684 on my cockers in 2 years. rarely do i use the .684.

Rebel hit it on the nose.

The barrel backs on PBG are $40. If you are going to spend that coin on ONE back you might as well spend $10 less and get the back you have now, which is a useless .689 , bored out for freak inserts, pick up one or two inserts or find a kit and never worry about only having a limited size back.

Im a stickler for matching barrels and guns.. since a Ti Kaner kit was not to be had for cheap, and I alrady have a full freak kit, and my Karni is NEVER being sold, I sent it off to SSC (I won a raffle and this was my prize) for a freak bore.

I looked into the freak kit and I like the idea but i don't completely agree with it. I am actually looking at the Lapco barrels. I read the only down side is that they are loud. What do you guys think? What bore should I be looking into if i going to buy a Lapco barrel? I am not dead set on Lapco but I cant seem to find reviews on others that are more accurate than them.