Electronics Parts

Shop With Confidence

FSE748GFS0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for FSE748GFS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Loud Squeaking

1. Unplug dryer from outlet2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.

Unplugged Dryer.Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.Removed Thermal Limiter.Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.Replaced Thermal Limiter.Closed top of dryer.Plugged Dryer back.Tested Dryer - it works.

I could tell the motor was bad, because when I tried to spin the drum by hand, it wouldn't turn in any direction. (Normally it can turn fairly easily.)

(Helpful hint: As you remove screws / parts, place them in a plastic baggie, and write on the baggie from whence they came. This is especially helpful if you have to order parts and then wait a few days for them to arrive.)

You can replace the starter motor without removing the drum, but it is easier if you do remove the drum. Plus, I decided to also replace the drum belt, since it was 9 years old and is a wear part.

UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

1. Pop off the top cover; it has two spring clips at the front, then it hinges up. Disconnect the green grounding wire at the back, then slip the cover off the hinges and set it aside.

2. Remove the front panel:

a. Looking down into the dryer, disconnect the electrical harnesses that go between the front controls and the body. You may have to cut a nylon cable tie to access one or more. (Note that they have shapes that won't allow you to mix them up later). Also, there are two wires that attach to connectors in the top middle of the dryer, which are difficult to get at; you may need a needle nose pliers to pull them. Remember their color-coding for reinstallation.

b. Remove the two phillips screws located about 8 inches from the top, on either side, inside the body, that hold the front panel in place.

c. The front panel is now held in place by spring clips. Pry it gently to pop it loose. It will hinge out, then you can pull it up. Notice how the front piece has felt pads that serve to hold the front of the drum; you'll line it up the same way when it goes back together. Set the front panel aside.

3. Remove the rear motor vent plate. a. It is at the back, lower right of the dryer (which is lower left once you're behind it). 2 phillips screws hold it in place.

b. Now look inside to see the motor and belt. Memorize how the belt feeds around the motor pulley and the larger, white plastic tensioner pulley. Notice how the rear motor bearing sits in a half-round metal plate, held down by a spring clip. (Make a drawing if you like.)

c. Move the spring- loaded tensioner arm to take tension off the belt, then slip the belt off the motor pulley.

d. Notice that the tensioner pulley, arm and spring are all held in place by the spring. Note that the tensioner pulley can slip off its shaft. Note these things for when you put it all back together later.

e. Now undo the tensioner arm spring and remove the arm, pulley and spring. Set them aside.

4. Remove the drum:

a. There is a yellowish plastic block at the top front of the open dryer body that holds the drum. Take it out with a phillips screwdriver.

b. Slip the now un-tensioned belt off the drum, to the back, so it hangs over the heater element body. You can leave it there for now, so you don't forget to install it before you put everything back together. If you're going to replace the belt, now is a good time to do so. (Check the length of the new belt against the old one, to make sure they're the same.)

c. Now you can remove the drum. It uses a center ball in a socket joint at the back to hold it in place. Use a screwdriver to lever upward on the back of the drum. This will pop the ball up, and then you can pull the drum out from the front.

5. Clean it up. Now is a very good time to vacuum out any lint in the fan area, inside the dryer body, etc. Also consider removing the lint trap assembly from the dryer front ( 2 phillips screws) and vacuuming it out as well.

6. Remove the motor.

a. First, remove the fan that's attached to the front of the motor. Use a socket (7/8", I think) to unscrew the fan from the front of the motor shaft. IMPORTANT: The fan has a plastic hex nut sh

Drum glide wore down and caused close to get stuck between drum and front panel.

Unpluged dryer. Removed the top of dryer by pushing in a retaining clip on both sides of the front lip with a screw driver. Remove the two screws on both sides of front panel. These screws are square head or phillips #2. Unplugged the wiring harness to front panel (make sure power has been disconnected). Support drum and lean front panel away from dryer body. Front panel will pull off of tabs at bottom. The old drum glide is fiberous and hard to remove. I removed most of it with the pliers, but had to carefully scrape the balance of the glide off with the wood chisel. The adhesive that comes with the repair part has an acetone base, so I used acetone (or you could use nail polish remover) to remove the old adhesive. Once the acetone has dried, I applied an 1/8" snaking bead of adhesive to the front panel. There is more adhesive in the tube than you need so do not use too much. Make sure that you get adhesive as close to the base of the lower seal as you can. Follow directions on adhesive tube and then attach the glide. I let it set up for about 30 seconds. Place the front panel back on the tabs of the dryer. Carefully lift the drum an fit it on the front panel and insert the two screws holding the panel to the base. Reconnect the wiring harness and make sure it is not in contact with the drum. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors on the timer are still in place. Reassemble the dryer. Reconnect power.

I felt ,if I was going to replace the top drum glide and lower basket seal, I might as well replace the belt ,bearing assembly and the idle pulley assembly and avoid having to replace these sooner than later. All of the parts showed alot of wear and the belt like all drive belts, should be changed every 5-6 years.DISCONNECT ELECTRICITY and GAS LINES1.popped top by pushing and prying at front /top clips about 2-3in. in from side edges. lifted it off2. removed the front panel by removing the 2 top front screws from the inside, then the two lower screws from the front after removing the small white plastic hole covers. disconnected the multiplug electric connector top right. set panel aside.3.remove small back panel.and loosened belt.(observe belt path and idle pulley assy.4. lifted drum and slid it out the front.5. using socket, removed rear plastic bearing housing and replaced the same. be careful of observing the small ball bearing and the small piece on outside back panel. replace the same. you wil probably need a second set of hands to hold the piece on the outside when screwing in the screws from the inside.6. unscew the "bearing" from the rear of the drum and replace with new one.(the screws are self-tapping and go in HARD!!)7. apply lubricant liberally to plastic bearing holder8. place new belt around drum(rubber side against drum cloth side out.9. idle pulley assy. is removed by removing spring and just sliding assy out of holder. replace with new10. replace drum and belt 11. take front panel and remove top drum glide and lower basket seal.( i marked where the two seal/glide come together with a marker )12. scrape and remove as much felt and possible. I then used "goo gone" to remove all the glue. clean well and using the provided high temp adhesive reattached glide and seal.13. reassemble and enjoy your NEW? dryer

I found a electrical diagram and some common problems on some websites which led me to check the thermal limiters. There are two right up top near the back of the dryer - one mounted closer to the heating coils and one mounted directly to the sheet metal on the inside back of the dryer. Using an DMM on the "Ohms" setting, I checked each sensor to make sure that they were "closed" (near zero ohms). Sure enough, the sensor mounted on the back of the enclosure was open (high resistance) which prevented the dryer from starting. To confirm, I shorted the two leads going to the sensor together temporarily and wrapped them with electrical tape and then tested the dryer - it worked perfectly. The part from Part Select was ordered and shipped very quickly. Since the sheet metal screws holding the sensor on were difficult to access with the drum in place, I used small machine screws/nuts to fasten the sensor - this allowed me to tighten the nuts from the outside of the dryer, making it very easy to attach.

burned out heating element

I unlatched top panel then removed two screws holding front panel on. I then lifted drum out of hanger to make room to remove element. Disconnect wires to limit switch and element. I then removed four screws on back of dryer that hold the pan. I removed old assembly and replaced with new one. Assemble in reverse.

I followed others suggestions with numbered steps and listened to others suggestions about replacing other parts while in the dryer. I took the dryer apart and cleaned it out well. I used acetone to remove the glue from the felt and Drum Glide at the top of the Drum. It worked much better than Goo Gone. By doing the clean up and evaluation one day, I ordered all the parts that I saw were worn or difficult to get to. I replaced the Heating Element only because the old one was very brittle and to get to it again would be difficult. Also, I followed other's advice to photograph the parts before removing. It was easy to remember how things went if I had a photo to refer to.

When the parts arrived it only took about 30 minutes to install them all because the glue removal, lint removal, and parts removal had been done another day. I should add that I am a 66 year old woman and found the job quite simple. Excellent web site. Thanks to others for the step-by-step instructions. Oh, to hold the Drum Glide and felt in place while the glue cured, clothes pins work great. I let the glue cure overnight to make sure that it was really secure.

Terminal Block Melts when power cord connector is left loose by install crew.

1) Removed Top Dryer Cover (pushed 2 compression clips on front side 1" from top and 2" in from each side) to gain access to terminal block in rear. 2) Removed 2 screws over terminal block cover and 2 screws holding bad terminal block in place. Removed 3 screws holding bad power cord, 3) Removed good terminal connectors from bad terminal block and reinstalled them in the new terminal block. 4) Cut dryer wire from bad terminal block connector and soldered (optional) them to the new terminal block connector. Installed this connector into the new terminal block. 5) Installed new terminal block in dryer with 2 screws. 6) Installed new power cord on new terminal block ensuring contacts were tight and cord had pull guard properly installed. Reinstalled terminal block cover with 2 screws. 7) Reinstalled Dryer Top Cover.

The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )

It was too easy: 1) remove the back of the control panel 2) disconnect wires to the switches and mark them for reassembly- I used masking tape and gave each wire and connector a letter- "a" "b" "c" etc; 3) remove the top of dryer by using a flat head screwdriver to pop the 2 pressure fasteners on the front; 4) remove the front of the dryer- remove the 2 screws fastening the front panel to the sides and lift up until the bottom pressure fasteners pop; 5) remove the belt from the pulley and tensioner- I used a digital camera to take pictures so I knew how to re-thread the belt; 6) remove the drum- pull up on the back of the drum with the belt and then pull the drum through the front of the dryer-it's a little smaller than the front opening so you need to pull on the sides of the dryer; 7) replace the heating element by (a) removing the overheat sensor and (b) removing three screws to remove the heating element from the back of the dryer; 8) replacing the rear drum bearing by (a) removing the bearing asssembly from the back of the dryer-2 screws, and (b) removing the bearing roller from the back of the drum- 3 screws; 9) assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Again it's too easy. I'm a lawyer with no mechanical training. Thanks to Parts Select for making finding the parts easy and saving me a lot of money.

Dryer was leaving marks on the clothes and they were getting stuck in the rim around the door .

Let me start by saying that I am a stay-at-home mommy of 2-year-old twin girls so if I can do this, you can too. 1. I disconntected the dryer from the outlet. 2. Then I had to pop open the top of the dryer. I had to wedge a screwdriver underneath the top lid (towards the front corners) in order to open the top. 3. Looking into the dryer from the top I could see a few screws I needed to remove that were along the sides of the drum. After removing the screws, I was able to remove the front panel of the dryer exposing the drum. 4. The seal that I needed to repair was located on the front panel. I had to remove the old seal (I had to scrap to get some of it removed). 5. I applied the adhesive then attached the upper and lower seals. 6. I let the seals dry for a few minutes then replaced the ront panel. In replacing the panel, the seals need to fit around the drum. You need to be careful in fitting the drum so that the seals remain intact and not pushed out of place. 7. Then, I simply replaced the screws to the front panel and secured the top lid back in place. FYI: I did have a problem with the lower seal, in placing the drum over the seals, the lower was pushed out of place without me knowing. A few days later, the dryer was making a noise and clothes were still getting caught. After opening the dryer and examining the seal, I needed to reattach the seal. I was out of the adhesive but was able to use Gorilla glue (can withstand any temperature once it is dry). Works good as new now. FYI: I also have to add that the actual replacing of the seals did not actually take 2 hours but since the dryer was opened, I took advantage and thoroughly cleaned the inside of the dryer.