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Wynn Las Vegas - 2017 - Issue 3 - Winter

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Born in Denver, Olivas logged time working at Wynn in Las Vegas before
moving to Italy on a mission to finesse his understanding of that country's
food. The highlight was a stint in the kitchens of Michelin-starred La Gazza
Ladra in Sicily, and Olivas has used that firsthand expertise when devising
the dishes which form the core of Il Teatro's new menu. He stresses that it is
focused on southern cooking, like that from Sicily—distinct from the style
that dominates in Italy's north. "Up north, it's so hearty, like they're cooking
for the winter; you find lots of cheese and cream. But southern Italian food
is summer cooking; it's light, with lots of olive oil, fresh herbs and seafood,"
Olivas explains. "It's very simple, clean, rustic, f lavorful food. It's all about
cooking with love and passion, using the best, freshest ingredients."
And it's those obsessions, like his passion for Sicilian octopus, that define
the chef 's approach at Il Teatro. "It's quite the best part of my job, sourcing
ingredients," he says. His dedication to sourcing requires that Olivas takes
three or four trips each year to Japan's famed Tsukiji fish market. There, he
can sample seafood, particularly scallops. Caught in the cold water around
Hokkaido, they have a distinctive sweetness he has yet to find any where
else. "They are used all over the world because the water is so pristine—it's
graded as Type A, which means you can just pluck a scallop out of the
86
作過的每一家餐廳，並以同樣的方式來烹飪：用白葡萄酒和醋煮一個小時至八
爪魚肉質軟嫩，然後放在烤架上炙燒，增加焦脆的質感。Olivas最近獲任命為
永利澳門帝雅廷意大利餐廳的高級主廚，這道他的招牌菜之一也出現在他為餐
廳設計的新菜單上。
Olivas出生於丹佛，曾在永利拉斯維加斯工作，後來為了更深入地了解意大利
的食物，被派駐到意大利，還曾經在西西里島的米芝蓮星級餐廳La Gazza Ladra
工作過。Olivas把學到的正宗意大利菜烹飪專業經驗融入為帝雅廷意大利餐廳設
計的新菜單裡。他強調說，他的烹飪風格源於意大利南部，例如西西里島——與意
大利北部的烹飪流派截然不同。「北部的烹飪風格相當濃重，比較像冬季的菜式，
使用大量的芝士和奶油。而意大利南部更像是夏季烹飪的菜式，味道清淡，主要使
用橄欖油、新鮮香草和海鮮，」Olivas解釋說：「菜式非常簡單，乾淨，質樸，味道豐
富，關鍵在於使用最優質、最新鮮的食材，以愛與熱情來烹飪。」
正如對西西里八爪魚的熱情，對食材的迷戀決定了主廚執掌帝雅廷意大利
餐廳的方式。他說：「採購食材是我的工作裡最美好的一部分。」Olivas對食材
的來源非常重視，每年都會到日本著名的築地魚市場出差三到四次，在那裡挑選
PHOTOGRAPHY
BY
DAVID
HARTUNG;
SAMANTHA
SIN
(OLIVAS)
左圖：Olivas的四式芝士
雲吞，以更輕盈的口味演
繹。下圖：當季海鮮精選
拼盤，包括波士頓龍蝦及
阿拉斯加皇帝蟹。
Left: Chef Nicolas Olivas.
Far left: Olivas' four-cheese
ravioli, adapted for lighter
tastes. Below: The season's
catch, from Boston lobster to
Alaskan king crab, is served
in the seafood platter.