Up front, I am new to this work as will be obvious below, but am a keen learner.

I tested the rotor for continuity and all combinations came back with .01-.02 Ohms (not the "1" which would indicate an open circuit?).

It says it should register 5-15? Is it strange that ALL cont would be lost? Is there any way to test the windings? there is no obvious damage, but would I see it if there were? is this rotor/windings repairable? this is still under the 7 year motor warranty, but I live in rural NH which means I do not have an LG appl tech within 50 miles. LG says they wont send parts to public, but another forum poster said they will? what is your advice? appreciate in advance.

notes:Hall sensor failure:When too much of the low-sudsing HE detergent is used in the LG washers (and especially non-HE type detergent)...

The motor & main board will detect suds when the tub begins to spin.

As strange as this sounds--suds causes drag/resistance.

The older hall sensors overheated--the main board would shut-down the washer & flash an error message of "LE".

If the Hall Sensor was not damaged--then the customer would be able to unplug the washer for about 2-3 minutes and plug in the washer again--the washer would be able to be re-started (reboot of the computer).

Eventually--this results in an "LE" error that won't re-set and the Hall Sensor needs to be replaced. The tell-tale symptom of this (aside from a "stuck" LE error) is that when the customer pushes the START button--the tub *wiggles* momentarily before flashing LE again.On a few occassions--the washer WILL start but the motor GROWLS loudly.************************Problem:An occasional LE error but always a slow or no spin: Solution:The Red wire going to the Hall sensor was intermittent. You can test this from the main board connector down to the connector on the hall sensor by checking continuity. There is an intermediate connector down by the motor/hall sensor so you can isolate the problem even more. My problem was in the short wire harness that connects directly to the motor and hall sensor. I could not find the open point of the wire so I added a new red wire and integrated it into the harness. All is Good!!!http://sites.google.com/site/sublimeappliancerepair/washer-enema-suds-solution/lg-le-error

Thanks to John

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About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

JW thanks....but I have tried the reset and drum "stutters" and tries to turn but does not....after a few minutes it shows as LE...I have tested all parts of the flow chart and the only problem is the Stator continuity comes back as bad. I think I am past changing the detergent amount, although this may have caused the problem.

how do you tell if the stator/windings are "bad"? all elsechecked out.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

page 30 says 5 to 15 ohms should be the reading between all of the stator terminals

« Last Edit: March 07, 2012, 06:14:31 PM by JWWebster »

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About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL