First noticed this a week ago when the drier had stopped but clothes still damp. Since then drier sometimes works OK. At other times it is difficult to get the "drying" light to illuminate & heat the load. Stopping & starting usually gets it going. When it eventually starts drying (It does heat up by the way), it only seems to run for a few minutes before turning off, or sometimes only a few seconds.

All filters/channells/condenser seem OK.

Could this be a stat fault or a module fault? - would it be worth ordering stats to give it a try?

When you say 'It stops' do you mean its stops heating or stops altogether.

If it does appear to heat but stop in a very short time then the braided brush that rubs on the band around the drum may have broken or the band itself may have come adrift.

Pull the plug and take the top off, you should see a copper braided brush that should be in good contact with a large band going around the drum. There should be a thin black plastic strip under the metal band, if that has come adrift it will also cause this fault.

Try it on timed drying mode and see if that works OK, bear in mind the heater may only be on half heat on this setting.

When the start button is pressed, the drier always starts rotating, with the "active" light on. The orange "drying light comes on sometimes. If it doesn't we have to switch off and try again till it does. The orange drying light either stays on momentarily, or goes off in a couple of minutes with little heat being generated.

Even when the drying light goes out, the drier still keeps on going and going, until it is switched off manually.

Intermittent faults are always a PITA to pin down. The drying light should only be on when the drum is doing its long clockwise rotation. It should go out as the drum reverses for a few seconds.

I have never had a fault on the selector switch but have changed several PCB's on these. The circuit board is rather expensive though and none of the mainstream repairers of PCB's will attempt to fix this one.

The stats at the back don't usually fail in this way but I have seen the stat located in the top of the door surround cause something similar. A physical examination of the stats looking for signs of burning or loose terminals might be a good idea.

Had the same problem on my TDC60P earlier this year.
I'm not sure how the TDC60 differs from the TDC62 but for what its worth this is my story........

I replaced all three thermostats but the problem remained.

A sharp knock to the right hand side of the machine sometimes caused the heat light to illuminate but it usually dropped out within a few minutes.

I suspected either a loose connection or a bad heater relay on the pcb.
Having disassembled & reassembled all the connections to the pcb the problem still persisted.

I suspected that the heater relay on the pcb was "dropping out"; possibly as a result of a dry solder joint on the board.
The relay in question is a 16amp contact device & can easily be identified by the 16 amp rating marked on it's body.

I purchased a replacement Schrack 16amp relay from Farnell (of the same type as fitted to the board,) but prior to fitting this I decided to re-solder the existing relay pins on the pcb.

Hey Presto! This finally cured the fault - so probably a dry joint.
As of today I've had no further problems with the machine.

As I have mentioned, all of the boards I have changed have been due to faulty relays sticking closed and tripping the TOC. When I enquired of the people at EMW/QER why they did not repair these boards as to me it seemed as though a new relay would sort it, they replied that they often found the board microprocessor was corrupted after a stuck relay fault.

Did as final_spin and gave the right hand side of the door a few taps and the drying light flickered & sometimes stayed on.
Top off, turned on and tapped plastic PCB holder gently. Straight away relay began clicking in & out, so power off, saw a couple of possible dry joints on the relays, so re-soldered all the relay connections to make sure.

In the past I have replaced the things on the back but I'm sure that's not the problem this time.

This has been an intermittent prob for a few weeks, I would go to check on the drying and it would be spinning cold, having started off warm, sometimes the drying light had gone off and I discovered tapping the side made it come on and the heat was restored.I have had a few occasions too when the washing has been very very hot inside, can't remember what else was happening at the same time or how I came to realise, maybe it had beeped and that was why I had opened it up.Anyway, now the drying light is lit as soon as I turn the right hand dial to one of the auto options, and now it is blowing cold air.I took the lid off and vacuumed away the dust and fluff in the hope it might suddenly start working again, but alas not.The copper brush thing is touching the drum just fine.With the lid off, and the start button pushed, I could hear a click but still no heat.I'm not sure what to look at or check next but am desperate to get this fixed and dry the mountains of washing constantly appearing in this house!Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi thanks for the response. Not sure how I would identify if this is the fault or not.Since posting, I've took the top and side off, bit of fluff around but not excessive amounts. Connections seem ok and no obvious dry joints.Seem to have got rid of the drying light being on as soon as a program is selected but start not pressed, so now we are back to normal lights ie choose a programme, no lights, press start and the drying light comes on but no heat, aarghhh! The back thermostats look ok (as I mentioned have had issue with these a few years ago but does not seem to be the prob now)What else can I check now to identify what the problem is?Thanks again in anticipation of any help.