I'm not sure, the calendars themselves are set to GMT+6 (Korean time) but they should display in whatever timezone your Google Calendar is set to. Maybe double-check your settings and make sure it's correct?

Dealing with exactly the same thing right now, my GF is trying to buy a Razer Blade Pro. They kept asking for a transaction confirmation from her bank which they said they can only give to the vendor, but Razer won't call them to verify it. She actually uploaded the documents they asked for, and the Rep said it would be another 1-2 days before they told her if it's accepted or not.

This is the 3rd time she's tried to place, this time with a friend's credit card number, with her own card they flat out rejected it because some of the info doesnt match 100% between her CC and her ID.

This isn't really an answer to your question, but since you mentioned that you're a non-profit I would highly recommend looking into an organization called TechSoup (assuming you haven't already done so, and you're in a part of the world where TechSoup is available). Cisco (as well as a LOT of software vendors) provide some pretty nice pricing for registered non-profits.

Correct, but some devices will automatically connect to open WiFi hotspots if there are no known networks available. This way you might not notice if your device did that, since the network name would match the network you expect your device to be connected to.

It's unlikely to yield any useful results for the "hacker", but it seems like that's likely what they're trying to accomplish.

Industrial type switches that mount on a DIN rail often require 24VDC provided by an external power supply. If that's the case, your switch will have a block of usually 3 screw terminals - V+, V- and ground.

Whether or not that's the exact case, it sounds like you'll need some type of power supply. If you can tell us the make and model of the switch you bought, somebody here will be able to give you a more specific recommendation.

Alright, so you see the green terminal block located on one of the sides (what would be the top if mounted on a horizontal rail)? That's where you'll wire your power supply to. Looking at the manual for that switch, it will accept 12-48VDC.

There are several options for DIN rail mounted power supplies, but those require you to wire 120vac directly into them - not recommend if you don't know what you're doing. Especially since the switch doesn't consume much power (maximum 2.12 watts), a small 12vdc "wall-wart" type power supply is probably better suited. Something like this would work. This particular one is nice because it comes with a little terminal block adapter you can stick on the end, then wire from that adapter to the switch. If you buy one without that adapter, you'll have to cut the barrel connector off, and use a volt meter to determine which wire is positive.

If you pull the connector off, you'll see "PWR", "GND" and a ground symbol marked on the switch. You'll need to connect the positive side of your power supply to "PWR" and the negative size to "GND". Don't connect anything to the ground symbol unless your power supply has a ground connector - DIN mounted supplies usually will, a wall-wart won't.

Out of curiosity, is there any particular reason you went with a rail mounted industrial switch? Just about any other switch you buy would come with a power supply of its own. DIN rail switches generally assume that you're installing it in some kind of panel where you'll have a 24VDC power supply available already.

There's no mic in the world that will sound good when you're facing away from it - it will start to pick up more audio reflecting off of surfaces in your room and less of your voice directly, which will give it an echoy/distant sound, not to mention getting exponentially quieter. For recording your voice while doing VR, I would recommend some kind of headset mic. A standard PC headset with headphones and mic built in probably won't work super well with a VR headset, but a headset mic designed for performance might be just the ticket. Something like a Shure SM35 with a Shure X2U to connect it to your PC is what comes to mind immediately, but that'll be out of your budget by quite a bit. That's probably the direction I'd go though.

Yes, but it also makes sense for a computer to resist setting its time to before the epoch (even though it could represent those dates) because even the oldest system using UNIX time is younger than the epoch.

Which actually raises the question of why system time is not just stored in an unsigned type. Is it just for the sake of consistency?

Nope, he's saying $7 is the same percentage of $2m as $700k is of $200b. i.e. If you had 2 million and spent 7 dollars it would "feel" the same as apple spending 700k on something. I'm not vouching for whether or not the math is correct though :p

Brackets is amazing. But, they are starting to load it with things I don't use. Their photoshop implementation for example. It's pretty freaking neat, but I'm on a deadline. I don't have time to mess around with it to learn all of its functionality. In theory it's supposed to make it easier to code by just "copying sizes" from different elements but that's not enough to make me use it.

Do you use it any by chance? Is it worth actually sitting down and learning it?

Probably a mix of both. AAX are much brighter sounding, HHX sound darker/heavier.

My recommendation: pick some of your favourite songs that are the same style that you play, and listen carefully to them. Pay special attention to the drums, but specifically the cymbals, and compare them. Decide which ones you like more: Do you prefer heavy sounding hats, or brighter? Do you like really heavy and washy rides, or rides with more 'ping'? Do you like really fast, trashy crashes, or ones that sustain longer?

Once you've listened and though about it, go on Sabian's website. Don't be afraid to mix and match series'! Sabian has all of their current cymbals listed, with specs shown as scales for things like dark-bright, fast-long. They also have sound clips which will give you a bit of an idea of what you're looking for. Make note of the ones that match your preferences.

Then, go to your local music store. Look for the cymbals that you noted, and try them out. See what you can get in your price range. I know you said your local store doesn't have much selection, but don't count it out immediately. If you have a good idea of what you want, they may be able to order them in for you. If they sell used gear, check it out! Cymbals are made to be hit with sticks, as long as they aren't cracked or damaged, there's nothing wrong with buying used, and you might be able to get significantly better stuff than you could afford otherwise!

Nothing is a substitute for knowing what kind of sound you want, and then actually playing and listening to cymbals!

This turned into kind of a long post about how to pick cymbals, but in direct answer to your question: don't be afraid to mix and match series. Also, we can give you advice, but strangers on the Internet don't know what you like or what sound you're looking for, only you can decide that!

A buddy of mine has a Paiste ride, it's the nicest ride I've ever played. I generally gravitate toward Sabian otherwise, specifically the 16" AAXplosion I mentioned in an earlier comment, and 14" AAX stage hats. The same advice totally applies to any brand though, you can get an even wider range of sounds if you aren't afraid to mix and match brands as well.

I used these (Vic Firth Tala Wands) for a long time, but I went through a lot of pairs of them because they really aren't meant for how I was trying to use them - playing full strength but with less sound. I've switched to these (Regal Tip Blasticks) and they're great, I can play as hard as I want and it's a lot quieter than normal sticks, and it doesn't feel that different from normal sticks... you lose a lot of control/bounce on the snare, but I've never found anything hotrod-like that doesn't have that effect.

That was basically my thought. It was only a practice, not worth it to load up all my gear. The rest of the kit was pretty much what you'd expect, old and horribly neglected. Old hardware that was almost impossible to get set up where I wanted, and only the snare had a reso head on.

I haven't noticed my battery being bad at all, but I checked usage and mine also shows Android System as having used the majority. One thing I noticed both in my case and yours is that the screen doesn't show up as having used battery, which it did on my old phone. I wonder if it's counting the screen's power usage in the Android System total?

That annoyed the piss out of me. Seriously unprofessional behavior from a company that's trying to establish itself as a serious competitor on the market?

Not everyone who uses CyanogenMod is a basement-dwelling neckbeard with no contact with the outside world. Some of us have real jobs, with real reasons to have our phones not on silent while in the presence of our clients/customers.

How have people still never figured out that nightlies aren't meant for devices that are used in any type of critical situation? Would it have better if you flashed the build and had it not boot after? What if you flashed it and didn't realize that you weren't receiving phone calls until you had clients yelling at you? Those are things that happen with nightlies. Nightlies are meant for devices that don't need to be working 100% of the time, that you're willing to use to help test CM. If that's not you, then stick to stable builds and you won't have problems.

As long as UMFtv on Youtube isn't lagging too bad, it should be better quality - streams on live.deadmau5.com are generally 480p, the YouTube stream is 720p. As for content, who knows what he's going to be streaming - I'd guess a simulcast of UMFtv, but could be entirely different.