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Place paper covering over your work area. Any paper will
do. Collect your supplies.
For wax, I use Yeardley general purpose wax. It comes in sheets
which are broken up and placed in your melting pot. To break the wax, place the
sheet of wax between two cardboard sheets. Place the set-up into a large plastic bag
and hit with a hammer until the wax is the desired size. You may also use a chisel.

I use a tackle box to hold most of my supplies:

tape
concentrated dyes
essential oils
mold sealer
boil bags
A food scale (up to 6lb)
various wicking
wax thermometer (a candy thermometer is adequate.)
various wick holders. I cut a metal hanger into several pieces of various
lengths. This will also serve to poke holes into your cooling candle.
screwdriver
knife

Choosing the proper wicking can be critically important. A
wick that is too small will smother itself with the melting wax. A wick that is too
large will cause the candle to smoke and burn quickly, and the wax to run over the
sides. The following are my wick recommendations, and the effects that they will
have.

A note about wire wicks. As the cotton burns away, the wire
will melt, and droop. Drooping will cause uneven burning, while the melted wire
creates black specks in the candle wax. Some of this may be eliminated by keeping
the wire trimmed. Be careful not to trim too much.

For plastic molds, place your wick into the groove and
secure. Tape will work to secure it, but mold sealer is better. Lay the wick
down so that it will protrude from the pour spout when the mold is snapped together.
Snap the mold together. Use your fingers and press around all the grooved areas to
assure a tight fit. Wrap the protruding end around your wick retainer and secure the
retainer to the mold.

For metal molds insert the wick through the hole in the mold
until it protrudes from the opposite end of the mold. Tie the end to the wick
retainer. Pull taught. Insert and tighten the retaining screw. Cut wick
approximately 1 inch from the screw. Secure the wick retainer to the mold. Use
mold sealer on the screw and on any other seams where wax may leak.

Preparing the wax.

I have only used regular candlewax at this time. Other waxes
are available for various purposes.Weigh your
wax. This will assure proper mixing of coloring and scenting if a second batch is
needed.
Place the broken up wax in a double boiler.

USE OF DIRECT HEAT MUST BE DONE WITH THE UPMOST CAUTIONIf melted wax comes under direct heat it may ignite. NEVER POUR WATER ON A WAX FIRE. If
wax ignites use a fire extinguisher or in some way smother the fire. NEVER LEAVE HOT WAX UNATTENDED.

When the wax reaches 190 degrees add your
coloring. After mixing with the wax, place a little on some paper. It will dry
almost instantly and give you your color. Add more coloring or wax to reach your
desired color. Remember to keep track of your wax and coloring amounts so that you
can match batches.

Remember that too much coloring can ruin
plastic and rubber mold

Add your scenting. Scent to
taste. Avoid using too much scent as the essential oils will mottle the candle in
too high a concentration. Remember to track your amounts.

If possible, do not pour hot wax near or in the sink.
Wax will clog your drain pipes.

For plastic molds allow wax to cool to about 180 degrees.
Wax that is too hot may warp or crack your molds. Wax that is too cold may trap air
bubbles. Wipe off excess moisture from the side of the pot to avoid water entering
the mold. Slowly pour the wax into the mold until the wax is at the bottom of the
pour spout. Make sure that the wick retainer is straight when finished.

For metal molds allow wax to reach 200 degrees. Wax
that is too cold may trap air bubbles. Remove pot from boiler and wipe off excess
moisture from the side of the pot to avoid water entering the mold. Slowly pour the
wax holding the mold at an angle until almost full. Level mold and fill to
top. Make sure the wick retainer is straight when finished.

For rubber molds: I have not used a rubber mold yet.

Filling the well

The well is formed as the wax cools and settles.
Allow the wax to cool for 45 minutes to an hour at room
temperature. Poke several holes through the pour spout towards the wick about
halfway down into the candle. This will allow air to enter the void and release the
tension on the wick
Use wax about 180 degrees. Pour your wax into the well.

For plastic molds fill the well back up to the bottom of the
pour spout.

For metal molds carefully fill the well. If too much is
used and the hot wax gets between the mold and the cooler wax you will have a very
difficult time removing the candle from the mold.

Plan on repeating this steps 2 or 3 additional times depending on
the size of your candle.allowing about 45 minutes between pouring.

Cleaning your metal molds may
be accomplished by placing them on a cookie sheet lined with aluminum foil. Set your
oven on 175 degrees. Place the cookie sheet into the oven. The oven must not
exceed 175 degrees or the solder of your mold may melt. A mold cleaner may be
purchased, but I have not used it.

Remember that candlemaking is fun. Experiment.
Keep track of your recipes in a journal.

Chunky Candles:
Wax chunks can be bought at the store or made yourself. To make
them on your own, get a shallow baking pan and fill approximately 1 inch. When it
dries you can break it up into chunks. You can even cut it into patterns and
make"stained glass" pictures.
Before filling your mold with wax, fill it to within 1 inch of the top
with wax chunks.
If you want solid and no mixing of colors, poor wax at a cooler
temperature.
If you want the colors to "bleed" together poor wax
much hotter.
After it cools you can use a flame
(BE CAREFUL NOT TO IGNITE WAX) and melt wax from between the
chunks.

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