Even the McDonald’s here is set in a listed building dating from 1710, and
comes minus the garish red and yellow logo. Dubbed “the gateway to the
fjords”, Bergen is Norway’s second city and the jumping-off point for Arctic
cruises.

I got my bearings by taking the Floibanen funicular railway for a bird’s-eye
view. Seven minutes after pulling away from the station, I was at the top of
Mount Floyen, with Bergen spread out 100ft below.

There were colourful buildings, cobbled streets, hills carpeted in evergreen
trees and the jewel in the crown, the Byfjorden fjord.

For a taste of Bergen’s fine dining, I took a cable car up to Sky:Skraperen
restaurant, with its epic views of the city and fjords.

The food is gourmet. I feasted on salmon sashimi, duck and vanilla tart,
complete with edible flowers.

But it’s not stuffy. There is a downstairs shower for hungry hikers and the
dress code gives a thumbs-up to fluorescent Lycra.

The next morning, I boarded a four-hour ferry north to Balestrand, on Norway’s
longest and deepest fjord, Sognefjord.

At our next stop, the Unesco world heritage site of Geirangerfjord, I
clambered into a kayak. We then spent a few hours paddling past waterfalls,
the odd cruise liner and herds of noisy goats before lacing up our walking
shoes for a mountain hike.

Our guide, Ove, seemed to bounce up the hills, pointing out wild strawberries
with his walking stick.

It’s not unusual to catch a glimpse of royalty on the mountains. Queen Sonja
of Norway is 77, but still an active walker. Ove told me: “I met her up here
once and she said hello.”

The trip wrapped up in Alesund, which is known for its art-deco style as well
as its fishing.

The sea is key to the town’s attraction and even the hotels have got on board.
The Bryggen gives its ground-floor guests fishing rods to use from their
windows, while a small lighthouse has been made into a luxury boutique room
by Hotel Brosundet.