Step 1:
Remove control arms via instructions in the factory or Haynes manuals.

Step 2:
Remove rubber bushings by heating via blow torch. When the rubber bushing is hot enough, it expands and is able to be pried off with a long screw driver.

Step 3:
Clean control arms and paint with 2-part epoxy primer.

Step 4:
With calipers, measure the inside diameter of the rear polyurethane bushing and the outer diameter of the rear control arm mounting post onto which the bushing slides onto. If the sizes are the same, then skip this part. Otherwise, if the inner diameter of the bushing is too small, it needs to be enlarged. Using a ¾” Forstner bit, I bored out the inner diameter. I used liberal amounts of water to cool the bit and facilitate a quicker& cleaner cut.

Step 5:
Using a fine point hobby knife, cut two channels in the inner diameter of the bushing: one channel on the top and one on the bottom. Thereafter, cut circular groves in the bushing using the ½” cutting wheel. Use the dental pick to help clean the channels and groves. The purpose is to allow grease to reach the inner diameter of the bushing where the rotation occurs during suspension travel. This will prevent suspension binding and the associated squeaking.

Step 6:
After the grease channels and groves have been cut, draw a line on the outside of the bushing and the mount, which will indicate where the grease channel runs. (The black marker line is visible on the bushing if you look closely). You want to drill into this channel, which will allow the grease to spread properly. Use a 15/64” HSS drill bit.

Step 7:
Tap the hole (both the metal mount and the bushing itself as the fitting extends slightly into the bushing) using tapping fluid and a ¼”-28 tap. Clean the threads with alcohol and use a little Loctite on the grease fitting and screw it into the mount.

Step 8:
Grease the control arm post. Place the bushing with mount over the control arm mounting post, and using a hammer for a little persuasion, knock the bushing into place. Now it is installed.

Step 9:
Now for the FRONT control arm bushings.
Using the same fine point hobby knife and ½” cutting wheel, cut two channels and circular groves in the inner diameter of the bushing. Use the dental pick to help clean the channels and groves.

Step 10:
Draw a line down the center of the outside of the bushings to indicate where the channel runs. Because the bushings come in two parts, drill your 15/64” hole in the center of the bushing where the bushings come together. Then using the same 15/64” HSS bit, drill a hole in the front control arm bushing mounting tube. Placement of the hole is half way in the center of the tube (remember, the bushings come in two equal length pieces) and about 3mm from the weld, which allows suspension rotation without the grease fitting coming into contact with any parts. Tap the hole (both the metal mount and the bushing itself as the fitting extends slightly into the bushing) using tapping fluid and a ¼”-28 tap.

Step 11:
Spread grease over the outer diameter of the bushings and push them into the control arm mounting tube by hand pressure alone. Make sure that the line from step 10 and the hole on the mount “line-up.” (See 2nd picture below). Next grease the metal sleeve that will run through the inner diameter of the bushings. It can be pushed in somewhat by hand, but requires the use of a vise to fully insert. Looking into the grease fitting hole, you should clearly see the metal sleeve without any obstructions.

Step 12:
Clean the threads with alcohol and use a little Loctite on the grease fitting and screw it into the mount.

Step 13:
You are now finished! Use a grease gun to grease fittings before installation of control arms onto car.

Last edited by Peter on Thu Dec 21, 2006 2:14 pm; edited 2 times in total

Ok Aus resource here...
RED RANGER/NOLATHANE
Kit number 48036
contains 2 (2 piece) cotton reel style bushings
id 22.3mm
3mm shoulder
No crush tube...
the lenth is longer and so they need to be trimmed in the middle. Use the extra with a hose clamp on the inner side to stop seperation...
cost is $45 for kit and available through ; autobarn , bursons and a few others..._________________1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

I would stay away form the Weltmeister bushings for the front control arm mounts because they do NOT use a steel insert. The insert is preferable for three main reasons.
First, the insert prevents the bushing from being “pinched” and compressed during control arm attachment to the cross member.
Second, the insert provides a smooth and evenly machined surface for the bushing to rotate around. The outer diameter of the steel insert and the inner diameter of the bushings are machined to fit precisely, allowing rotation of the bushing without compression or lateral (front to back) movement. Absent the insert, the bushing rotates around the bolt. The bolts were not designed to be used as a liner. They are not a machined to fit perfectly into the bushing. This will result in additional movement at the joint, defeating the performance purpose of replacing the rubber bushings with poly.
Third, the suspension was designed by factory engineers to use a steel insert as an axis point for rotation rather than the mounting bolt. I trust that Porsche, Audi, VW know more than Weltmeister.
Several posters on Rennlist & Pelican who have removed their Weltmeister bushings reported that the round inner diameter of the bushing had become oval. This results in more suspension play, once again defeating the performance aspect of going with poly over rubber. However, if you use Weltmeister bushings, it will be hard to notice a decline in suspension performance because the bushings become elongated gradually over time. This explains the few complaints about Welts, other than from those who have actually removed and inspected them. And as you probably are experiencing yourself, removing suspension components is not very easy and is not regularly done like an oil change.
Lastly, Welts are fine for the rear of the control arms as the rears have a large post which was designed for the bushing to rotate over. This goes for the torsion tube & spring plate mounts. (Look for a “How To” on mounting rear spring plate & torsion tube bushings with grease fittings to come out over the winter. )

I recently acquired a 1981 924 turbo, it was outfited with the same control arm as yours with the bracket for the stabilizer bar. does anybody know where I can locate the left and right hand control arms? I have searched high and low all over the web so far only to find many that fit, but no stabilizer fitment. _________________1981 porsche 924 turbo

Need a control arm for my 78 924 (MK1) but it needs the sway bar mount. I can get a control arm but where can I get the sway bar mount separately and have it welded on?
Thank you.
Gary_________________78 924 Special Edition

The control arm as pictured in the above write-up was only used for a few years and does not seem to be available anywhere.
The commonly available arm without the sway bar 'ears' can be adapted by welding on the 'ears' from an old arm. The sway bar mount bracket ('ear') is not available separately.
Good used arms appear on eBay every so often, but generally require new ball joints, which are relatively inexpensive.
The other alternative is to go the later 924/944 route, but this will require the later sway bar, and chassis mounts to be acquired as well._________________80/81 932/8 ROW