As this is the first time I attempted any DIY work on my car, I took a good mental picture of what the engine bay look like; this will hopefully prevent any confusion later. You can also take a photograph of it to have a real picture of it.

I started by removing the plastic piece that holds the electrical lines that go over the engine:

There are 4 plastic (read: easily breakable) that hold the cover to the microfilter holder:

Carefully pry those open and remove the wrapped electrical line from inside. Make sure nothing is still connected to the microfilter holder since we will be removing this

Next, undo the three spring-load screw/clips from the top of the microfilter holder.

You can now pull that piece forward exposing the actual micro-filter:

Remove the micro-filter (and replace if needed)

Once the micro-filter is out of the way, 4 T30 Torx screws are exposed:

Unscrew all 4 and gently pull on the Micro-filter holder to remove from car (might take a little bit of prying and maneuvering to actually remove)

Location of all 4 screws:

Next Remove the PCV line by pushing on the clips (red arrows) and pulling off of the engine

Also remove the oil cap

With the 10mm socket, un-screw the 6 nuts holding the plastic engine cover (note: be careful not to drop any)

When you have removed all 6, this is what you should have:

Carefully remove the plastic engine cover and place it to the side

Replace the Oil Cap to stop any unwanted dust or dirt from getting into the engine (I also replaced the PCV fitting but didn't push it down all the way)

Next, carefully remove the spark-plug wire loom which is being held in place by two clips. Push the two clips together and put the wire loom to the side (do not completely unravel, this is simply gives you more space to work)

The top portion of the coil pack rotates up and allows you to unplug the coil pack connection from the actual coil pack. Un-plug the coil-pack and then simply use the top of the coil pack to expose the spark plug

Once you have removed the coil-pack, use the 3/8 drive wrench, the 3/8 drive extension(s) and the 5/8 spark-plug socket to remove the sparkplug:

The spark-plug is typically tight and takes a little bit of force to get moving. Put a little bit of leverage on it but do not strip the actual spark plug (bad). If you happen to strip the spark plug, take a sip of beer, re-assemble and take your car to a local mechanic

Finally locate your new spark plug. I use high-temp anti-seize on the threads to make sure I can safely remove them later.

Hand-screw the new spark-plug back in and then hand-tighten with your 3/8 ratchet

Finally torque to 22 ft/lbs with your torque wrench

Carefully re-seat the coil-pack on the spark-plug and then reconnect the cable:

Make sure the coil-pack is seated fully on the spark-plug

Repeat for the other 5 spark plugs

Complete the job by re-installing the plastic engine-cover and micro-filter holder in reverse order of above.

NOTE:

I noticed some oil in the spark-plug canal of the cylinder closest to the oil-fill cap (probably from spilling oil while filling).

I simply used a paper towel and long screw-driver to clean the walls before replacing the spark-plug.

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