The wife starts up the CRD and is drivin down the road (3 blocks) and the steering wheel shakes a little bit BEFORE touches the pedal as she comes up to the stop sign. She starts to brake and the pedal is hard as a rock. She stops at the stop sign. She starts to turn left but has no pick up. She tries to accelerate but it feels like the emergency brake is on. She pulls over and smells something burning (turns out to be rt. frt. brake). She shuts it off. I get there 5-10 min. later. I start it up and the temp gauge is spiked. I put it in gear and it doesn't want to move. She calls a hook. It arrives an hr. later. I start it up. Temp gauge normal. Brakes fine. I drive it on the flatbed and it goes to the STEALER. They scan it and tell me the waste solenoid $39.85(part #4606226AC) internally shorted. Not in stock, of course. Three days later, they receive it, and get it installed along with a filter $12.19(part#5080374AA). Now a phone call with some bad news. It seems the shorted out solenoid caused the PCM $650.00 (part #4606226AC) to short out. They also replace a modulator $70.50 (part#52109543AA). Thurs. we pay $971.14 and out the door we go. On Sat afternoon, about 25 miles from the STEALER, it does it to her again. We get it towed in AGAIN. I take it out for a test drive behind the dealer. I get it up to 80. Start and Stop several times. No problems. Go back to the Stealer on Monday. The service manager and I take it out for a test drive. He drives. About a mile away, it does the same thing. We pull over. I smell the rt. front brake again. Smells like its grabbin again. I get in to drive it back. I make it a half a block and temp gauge shoots way up. It feels like the front brakes are locked. Pedal hard as a rock. I pull over and park it. We get a ride back to the Stealer. Two days later, the service manager tells me that there's contamination in the master cylinder. They need to flush the system and put two calipers on. They test drove it for 88 miles and they tell me, "we should have caught that the 1st time". No charge! Several days and about 40 miles from the Stealer, it does it again on my wife. My wife leaves it and gets a ride home. The Service Tech comes the next day and drives it back to the Stealer. Not a problem. I go there and they tell me "WE DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS". They ask me, What do you think? I respond, "I don't know, that's why I brought it here. Call me when you figure something out" A few days later, the have several different options available from replacing the master and a few lines to replacing the master, all the lines, the front calipers again and the REAR CALIPERS, and the ABS control module for $2,825.35. I told him, we just don't have that kind of money right now. This Monday, I brought it to a local muffler & brake shop and it did it on the way there again. I got it limped there and the guy disconnected ABS wire to the rt front brake. I started it up and it and it was ok again. He said it was probably the ABS control. It wont have ABS now but you will be ok now for sure until you get the money for a control module. Today, her and my son run to grocery store 3 miles away. On the way back, it does it again. She parks it on the side of the road. We go back 3 hrs later. She drives it home like nothing is wrong. Has anyone ever had this problem? Does anybody have a clue. I don't have the money to just change parts. Thanks in advance!

i had something similar happen to my brakes. there are two bolts that you need to remove that hold the caliper on and have little rubber boots over them. take the bolts and the rubber boots off. clean the bolts, boots and the threaded holes out of the caliper with brake parts cleaner. do a thorough job. they do make replacement boots and bolts if you want to go that route. they should be available at any parts store. repack the caliper and boots with brake grease and reinstall the bolts. this will make them release easier when you let off the brake pedal. be sure to check your caliper and pads, they will likely need replacement.

sorry to say it but i think youve been getting hosed on all the maintenance the dealership has been performing.

I would keep the ABS disconnected and bleed the heck out of the brake system. Contamination in the system may have caused the problem but now with all that locking up the brake fluid has heated up a lot and is not very good anymore. Clean the crap out of the system by bleeding it a ton. That will eliminate that as a source of the problem.

You're going to want new front calipers and probably rotors due to the heat. A new set of sliders like the guy above was saying would be a good idea too, and grease them up real well.

Drive around with the new front hardware and freshly bled brake system with the ABS system disconnected and see if it happens. Not sure what you'll need to do to get the ABS system totally disabled....but you wnat to eliminate the ABS as the source of the problem.

It sounds like some one mixed brake fluid. For example Dot 3 and Dot 4 can not be mixed together. The reaction between the two will cause the brakes to lock up. I have seen this happen a few times . The bad news is the only way fix it was to replace the whole system, master cylinder, calipers and brake lines. No matter how many times I tried to clean everything and re-fill the system the brakes would eventually lock up.

im having problems with both my fronts dragging. i replaced the two front brake lines a while back with the pads so im guessing the things just stuck. hopefully not a prop valve. no telling how much that will cost. abs light has been coming and going for about a month. got the wheels off earlier. pads look new still. i was shocked. rotors turn easily. figured maybe it was electronic so i just pulled the cables for a few hours. i did use my power bleeder when i changed the fluid a while back. i did not bleed at the master or prop valve just went straight to the calipers. we'll see how it goes this week. if the light comes on again i might just go to a shop. dont have much time

im having problems with both my fronts dragging. i replaced the two front brake lines a while back with the pads so im guessing the things just stuck. hopefully not a prop valve. no telling how much that will cost. abs light has been coming and going for about a month. got the wheels off earlier. pads look new still. i was shocked. rotors turn easily. figured maybe it was electronic so i just pulled the cables for a few hours. i did use my power bleeder when i changed the fluid a while back. i did not bleed at the master or prop valve just went straight to the calipers. we'll see how it goes this week. if the light comes on again i might just go to a shop. dont have much time

I recently cured my brake issues and gained 2 mpg city. There are a number of causes for brake dragging. Flexible brake line internal deterioration, bad caliper, or in my case, the PO did not "fit" the pads and they bound. The cure for this is preventative action at install. The metal stamping of the brake pad has "fingers" that ride in a grove. I have been finding that I need to file to get no resistance as the stamping tolerances suck. A slight amount of slop is IMHO optimal.