Top Whites from the South of France

Stonkingly Good Value!

Earlier this year I was tasting in the South of France and just by bringing the glass to my nose was immediately struck by the poise and concentration of these delicious, outstanding white wines - Le Grill and Mas Cristine. They come from around Collioure, the fishing harbour, by the Spanish border. They've just arrived in - so I was excited to pull the corks on them last night. They lived up to my expectations, even more so than I'd hoped.

We drank them with grilled asparagus and parmesan with baby tomatoes and balsamic. That turned out to be a perfect match for the less expensive wine 'Le Grill' that is drinking beautifully now. It is a particularly great buy this year as it has the fruit in it that would normally be reserved for a more expensive wine, but there was too little to make a separate bottling. The more expensive and deeper, more complex Mas Cristine demands a serious fish dinner, perhaps John Dory, or halibut or hake with fennel or white onion, and olives. It's a grown-up, special white - sort of the Roussillon's Condrieu, and is also exceptionally well priced.

It just so happens that the wines are made in part, and blended, by our erstwhile colleague and author, Richard Bray. I hope you enjoy them. (I have to say, I'm very tempted by his suggestion of lobster and garlic butter with Mas Cristine. Might have to treat myself to that later with the remains of last night's bottle).