Sorry for the late reply. I had this problem and spoke to Jeff at Neutech who couldnt care less and tried to fob me off saying he had never heard about it before (nice customer service Jeff when a google search showed it to be a common complaint)

I had a closer look, and definitely is the corner of the rimlock rubbing where the corner touches the tyre. This will happen on a soft wall tyre like the starcross, less likely on dunlops etc. It will happen even if running 10-12psi, just will take longer

Sat down and thought for a while, had to buy a new tyre (thanks Neutech for not being helpful) and then ground off the corners of the rimlock.

When doing so, ensure that the contact patch of the metal rimlock that has ridges on it only has the top (section AWAY from the metal rim) 3 or 4mm rounded off all along the length. This removes the sharp corner and edge from contacting the sidewall of the tyre when compressed, but still provides the rimlock capability. Also, definitely do the rimlock up to spec torque

Since doing that, I now run my front, (still a starcross) at 5-7psi and havent had a problem in 2000km. Before I ground it down, I had only done 350km before the first split

Just in case anyone isnt clear. Neutech were not in the slightest helpful, and tried to weasel out of the problem. Thumbs up for the product, thumbs down for afterservice

Spiked another michy sc5 soft front on saturday early into the ride. Running 14psi,2nd ride on it. It required 2 plugs to hold air and it keeped leaking slowly throughout the ride and needed a regular top up of air and some reduced pace riding to get us back to the cars. Great gripping tyre but the carcass is as weak as piss and it tends to tear rather then just holing. I was chasing a mate down,pushing hard,had him in my sight, closing in and bang,puncture. F-ing starcross i shouted. Cruising around and you don't seem to have a problem. I hate mooses and uhd tubes so i suppose i'll have to live with it.

Try the Bridgestone x30s. Dunlop geomax and Michelins are just too thin for tubliss. X30s will still get holes but have a much stronger carcass and seal nice with a plug and slime. I only run tubliss in summer. Mousse tubes for winter and race season.

x30 front are ok in the dry but ordinary in the wet.I find them more a int-hard and don't do soft wet terrain well. x20 front is heaps better for this time of year and will do soft,wet to intermediate well and like the x30 they are a tougher tubeliss option. I've got both of these in the shed and prefer these on longer point to point and multi day rides for their tougher carcass and good grip.

I see Torpedo 7 have the Tubliss kits for $119 on special for 2 days. I suggest you won’t get cheaper than that.
Best bang for your buck I can suggest for improving traction, especially on the rear wheel.

I see Torpedo 7 have the Tubliss kits for $119 on special for 2 days. I suggest you won’t get cheaper than that.
Best bang for your buck I can suggest for improving traction, especially on the rear wheel.

Of course T7 have them on "below cost" special now...after I just bought 5 sets from the Aussie distributor last week

Is the 'Tubliss' rim tape anything special or is it just rim tape to protect the 100 psi inner tube from the spoke nipples? I normally use 'Gorilla' tape which is just the right width and more of a cloth duct tape and looks like it would give more protection than the Tubliss tape.

Is the 'Tubliss' rim tape anything special or is it just rim tape to protect the 100 psi inner tube from the spoke nipples? I normally use 'Gorilla' tape which is just the right width and more of a cloth duct tape and looks like it would give more protection than the Tubliss tape.

no its not, gorilla tape is fine like you said, it just to protect the tube from spoke nuts