akmal's bike park

Wednesday, 29 September 2010

The most awaited EPIC ride is BACK!!!. Plentong Epic 2010. This ride will cover 60km of nice trail cutting across various terrain in Plentong.

Beginners - Experts levels all are welcome to join us for this fun ride.

Please be invited to join the...Plentong Epic Ride 2010 Johor Bahru

The Trail:Over 60km of wonderful trails cutting across various terrains in Plentong, Johor Bahru with many new sections of fabulous single tracks. Beginners or EXPERTS, THERE is something for everyone-fast fire roads, gorgeous single tracks, lung-busting climbs and adrenaline pumping downhill and the most important is, less tarmac and all are rideable, There is also a chicken loop for the not so strong RIDERS.

Monday, 27 September 2010

I prepared for this morning's ride last night, and I went out early. Alhamdulillah, I enjoyed this morning's ride for it's not hasty. More of a relaxed ride, and I noticed something very fundamental as I've read somewhere before.

My RTW Machine lacks momentum. Whenever I stopped pedalling, the speed would decrease quite fast (physics term: deceleration). Really, it felt so. I felt that I have to put in much effort to have the machine rolling at an average speed, compared to riding my mountain bike. With an mtb, I feel that I would glide and the speed is not hard to build up once acceleration has begun. On flats, that is. However, the effort put in climbing a gradient (although not that steep) is lesser than I would have with an mtb (even with slicks). As a result, my ride this morning was not as fast as my previous ones. The average speed is just near to 22 km/h. Granted it's a relaxed ride, compared to Hollowpoint with slicks, I registered more than that.

Well, these are in agreement with what I read in various sources (through the internet, of course), and logic. Lighter objects would lose their momentum faster compared to heavier mass (or weight). In climbing, effort is lesser taxed with lighter bikes compared with hauling a heavy one.

This being stated, I've never weighed my RTW Machine yet. Suffice to say, it is my lightest (and cheapest) bike so far.

Thursday, 23 September 2010

I'm not like a couple of riders I know, whom spouses are riders too. Sometimes I do envy them (don't we all?). They have it easier, enjoying mountain biking. But hey, our lives are different, and we have to make do and adapt.

My wife would sometimes pull a long face while I'm getting ready for a ride. And I would be silent whenever she asks the question that she already knows the answer to,

"what time are you coming back?"

I take it that she's wishing me "have a good time on the trails, and be safe iye Sayang. I'll have your lunch ready when you reach home with hugs and kisses too" without being too romantic and to keep it short that early in the morning.

It turns out that I'm not alone. That's why I'm sharing this article with you.

A few of the Spousal Tips put forth therein works nicely for me (us), but the first one (Start Earlier) needs a LOT of effort from my riding buddies. The last ride I participated in was scheduled at 8.30 but we started rolling at 8.45 am. I would have to start memorising a few short trails and go ride by myself (okay, perhaps with one or two others for sake of safety) when the itch kicks in but not having the luxury of time.

As for the others:

- Get a schedule - lesser offroad rides for me now, when we agreed for me to go only during non-working weekends (I work on alternate Saturdays). That means only twice per month, but I got my fix through RTWs, so I'm quite okay with that.

- When you are at home... be at home - still working on it:)

- Flowers always work - yes, they do

- Set a time to be home (even though you will probably break it) - well, pretty much okay. I try to be home at around 1 pm and 'be at home' (see above). If I do go outside of my normal trail, I'll make sure wifey is notified of the slightly extended wanderings.

- Drive yourself to the trailhead - I usually ride the bike from home to the RV point, and get back home straight from the trail where we exit (usually around 1 pm). I cut the time by not having lunch outside, and no time required for strapping the bike to a car.

Wednesday, 22 September 2010

No matter what type of brakes you're mounting on your handlebar, you'll face this issue: Which side shall I mount the levers?

There are two options:

1. "LHS Front" - Left hand side (LHS) for front brake with right hand side (RHS) for rear.

2. "RHS Front" - Right hand side (RHS) for front brake with left hand side (LHS) for rear.

For V-brakes and some hydraulic brake models, the issue is solved for you. They are fixed to have the first option (LHS Front). Okay, you can say that you don't have options for these. For others, you're given the benefit of matching the levers with motorcycle style through the second option (RHS Front).

Hydraulic brakes hoses normally are pre-assembled to the levers and calipers and pre-installed with hydraulic liquid, giving you the no-hassle 'install and use' (or abuse).

V-Brakes

The levers itself for V-Brakes are never an issue. Cable changing is a walk in the park with V-Brakes. However, the system is deemed as fixed to use LHS Front, due to the location of the noodle hinge placement for the front brake. Located directly below the RHS lever, it's quite impractical to have the cable routed from the noodle to it. For a good cable route with a nice radius and kink-free, it is best to have it as LHS Front. You're left with having to adapt to this.

However, I've seen instances of Vs installed RHS Front, but the noodle is jutting outwards to the front and the cable is quite long it looks awkward.

Cantilever Brakes

Okay, it's a bit ol' skool and nobody I know still using this type of mechanical brakes. Basically, they are considered flexible. You can have the levers installed as LHS Front or the other.

This is due to its cable runs down to the middle in between the brake cantilevers. So, it's not an issue whether you want the front brake to be on the LHS or RHS.

Hydraulic brakes - fixed levers

The lever design is fixed, whereby one lever is for the LHS, and the other lever for the RHS. Usually you'll find that the default assembly of the hoses is for LHS Front. Examples are those from Shimano and Magura.

The lever design does not permit exchange of sides, so if you want to have it 'customised' to have RHS Front, you'd have to disassemble the hoses from the levers and switch between them. So far I've never dabbled on hydraulic brakes' hose and fluid, so I don't have any idea on whether it would be a messy affair whatsoever. Anyway, you can always have your LBS to help you with this.

Hydraulic brakes - ambidextrous levers

A number of brake manufacturers utilise flip-flop design, or ambidextrous, which means you can have the option of mounting the front brake levers on the RHS or LHS. Examples include Avid Juicy and Elixir; and Hayes El Camino, Stroker and Prime.

The pre-assembled sets look like the manufacturer knows what you want, whether you're a LHS Front or RHS Front guy. You'll say to yourself, "wow, they really know what I want".

To the manufacturer, this sort of design would lower down the production cost. Only one design for both levers.

Clever.

Why is this important?

Simply put, and primarily, it's for our safety.

The front brake is our prime stopper. It gives us more stopping power compared to the rear brake. Hence, we should be familiar with it; either to purposely use it to stop the bike, and more importantly to be aware of it - not to pull the front brake lever hard during a panic spell while going downhill (you get the picture).

My friend Gjoe was awarded with a few stitches on his chin due to this. He's a left-handed as I am (read: not normal. heheh...), and he's used to have the front brake lever on the RHS for his old 4-piston Shimano XT hydros. When he purchased his new XT hydraulic brakes, he's forced to use it as it is - LHS Front, as the brake sets came pre-assembled that way. Poor him, he pulled the wrong lever and ended up with stitches on his chin and scratches on the new brakes. Now, after the accident, he's changed the levers to what he's familiar with - RHS Front.

The other reason is for us to know our options and be prepared with any further costs ($ and time) should we need to have them modified to our preferences.

My way

I get around this problem by having it this way:

- LHS for front controls - brake and FD shifter

- RHS for rear controls - brake and RD shifter.

Okay, it is more towards fixed setting, since shifters are always LHS mounted for the FD, and RHS mounted for the RD. And, coincidentally, the same is for v-brakes. So I've got no issues on this, if I were to use Shimano hydros. Anyway, for the option freak me, I went with ambidextrous ones from Avid. Well, I bought because I got 'em cheap, primarily, and as a bonus, the design.

Also, I don't ride motorcycles because I don't have one, and that's primarily because I don't have a license (really, no kidding!). So, I don't have any issues with adapting the brake levers when I'm riding a bicycle or a motorcycle.

By the way, my Elixirs came as LHS Front. No twiddling necessary for me. Avid really knows what I want.

:P

The thing to be aware of

The moment you're getting yourself a pair of brakes, bear in mind and ask this question - what mounting option do you have with them, and does it suit your preference? If they do need some modification done to change the mounting side, you'll have to factor in the possible costs (time and $) for doing it.

I'd like to stress here that there's no fixed side for mounting your brake levers. As long as you're comfortable with it, go that path. It's your bike. You're the one who'll be riding it. After all, mountain bikes are built custom for fit, purpose and style; to the rider, riding style and personal preferences.

Tuesday, 21 September 2010

Well, I do too, but in my line of work, that kind of tips would be construed as bribes. Anyway, this is not about that.

Tips are simple, cheap, tried and tested ways of doing things. Basically re-purposing non-special tools or bits, usually common things around us, to make our lives easier. You can say, for some instances, they are pocket and life savers.

Friday, 17 September 2010

Following the chainsuck episode, I learned that the way it ought to be is that your drivetrain should be changed entirely when the time comes. New teeth (cassette and chainrings) would warrant new chain. In my case, the RD jockey wheels also need to be changed.

As you can see, the drivetrain setup is no more SRAM/Truvativ/XTR, but more of 'whatever goes'.

:)

Crankset

The chainrings on Stylo are a little bit worn out now making me suffer with chainsuck, and the Deore on Naza's bike has only run for less than 100 km and is sitting somewhat idle collecting dust. I intended to only swap the rings from Deore to Stylo, in order to make a cheap and simple change.

Prior to that, I've asked around for loose chainrings (22/32/44T), but none available and new ones are not cheap. The easier path is to buy new crankset (and it comes with BB too). A new Stylo Team 3.3 (not OCT) would be around RM400 (cheapest I found), a new XT would be around RM650, and a new Deore 2010 is between RM170 to RM200. Okay, Deore is out of the league there, but they're easier on the pocket, and more durable. However, I don't intend to spend $, hence I'm going the thrift option.

The big and middle chainring BCDs for my Truvativ Stylo Team and Naza's Shimano Deore 2010 are the same - 104 mm. However, the spider length is a bit longer on the Stylo hence it won't accept the big ring from Deore's. Well, it's not that simple after all. So, I took out Stylo from Hollowpoint together with its BB and Deore from Naza's Diamondback, and swapped them out. The process took me a good 1½ hours with cleaning and all. Also, I've read in a forum that the steel midring and granny on Deore are more durable compared to aluminium and people swear by it. Obviously there's the weight penalty, but I guess I could live with that considering the $ involved.

Cassette

I bought the cassette secondhand in a very good condition (very slightly used) to replace my old one a couple of months ago. No wear sign at all, so I consider that it is new.

Chain

My XTR/Dura Ace CN-7701 chain is worn badly now, and it's high time for a change. I'm still using CN-7701 chain to replace the old one due to it's zinc plated feature. That means it's easily cleaned and would not rust easily. XT's is with zinc plated outer plate, too. Moreover, I got a good price for the chain, so I grabbed it. Mind you that CN-7701 does not get a very good review on mtbr, but I've been riding with it and I can live with it. Perhaps if I'm able to do it diligently, I'll keep track of the mileage and wear of the chain. That'll be something nice to do and report in here.

Chain Connector

I'm a fan of chain connectors. There are a few brands available in the market - the original SRAM Powerlink II, KMC's Missing Link, and two other Taiwan brands. SRAM's tend to be sold at RM15 and KMC's at RM10. They're virtually the same, and I've been using KMC's for a couple of years now with not much of a problem. Why KMC? Well, the answer is obvious - the price is only 67% percent of SRAM's.

I admit that some people would have to get really acquainted to installing and removing the connectors, and many ended up cursing at them while nursing their bleeding fingers before throwing them away at the trailside and resorting back to using the good ol' chain tool and spare links. I don't have this problem, and I'm happy with not needing to whip out my chain tool.

If possible, I'll get the gold coloured ones. It acts as a marker for lubing my chain.

RD Jockey Wheels

The JWs on my 2010 SRAM X9 RD are turning into sharp 11 pointed stars already. After much research, I came to the conclusion that I could use KCNC JWs to replace them. The original ones are 'bushing, hardend' (that's what it says on SRAM's technical manual) with sealed bearings. KCNC's are using 7075 anodized Alloy.

Prior to 2010, X9 RDs are using JW with offset mounting for the top pulley. The problem that it poses is that the replacement JW is only available from SRAM and it's not an easy find at least in JB's LBS. I bought a pair for my 2008 X9, and it costed me RM70, from a prominent bike shop in Bandar Melaka. The 2010 X9 eliminates this, and I'm a happy man.

That means, I could use third party JWs such as KCNC's. Not for the bling factor, but more of their durability. A fellow rider has been using them for more than 2 years and the condition is still okay. Considering that it's CNC-machined from alloy and the chain rollers grinding on it are made of steel, I'd say that they're good.

Just my luck, I got mine from BBS slightly used (only 3 months according to the seller). The ad was posted early this week and I contacted the seller on Tuesday morning. Transfered RM40 and the next day I received the pair of 11T KCNC's. The seller works for DHL, so he waived the postage :)

first ride

As a note to self, the new drivetrain starts at odometer reading of 5016 km.

I went into Seri Alam trail yesterday with the new drivetrain setup, and I'd say it's a smooth ride. I didn't actually set and tune the RD properly and as best as I would have, only that it does shift okay with a little skip on the lower gears. However, I'm happy to report that I'm able to use my 11T on the cog now. Will have to further tune the RD for the best possible setting.

Well, that'll be after I've cleaned the bike. Perhaps some quiet time after all the Aidilfitri open house invitations.

make it better

Some riders are using 2 sets of chain and they swap between the chains after some interval. This reportedly results in longer chain life. I don't know if it is true.

However, we can also use these tips from KMC to minimise chain wear (and perhaps extend drivetrain life).

Saturday, 11 September 2010

It was reported by Bike Radar mid April, so this is actually old news for some.

I've always been an admirer of CB's offering, but never able to be a proud owner of one. $ is a factor, surely. However, I've always enjoyed drooling over their products. Beautifully engineered mountain bike parts and accessories.

They are renowned for their pedals and accessories; then they churned out the wheelsets, quick release and adjustable seatpost; and now they've completed the portfolio of third party mountain bike parts with the cockpit. Unveiled were the stems, handlebars and grips; with rigid seatposts to boot.

For now, partly due to the parts are not readily available at LBS around JB (while $ being the other bigger factor), I can only imagine my bike to have these:

Wednesday, 1 September 2010

Due to certain circumstances, I have to RTW this morning. Well, that's good. So last night I prepped up a bit, and I thought of using the Hollowpoint with knobbies and all. I installed the Cateye meter sensor on board the cockpit, packed the saddle bag and mounted the hand pump on the frame. No bags or beam rack this morning. Ready to go, and looks like I could go offroad if I need to.

I went out early, at 0653 hours. It was hard to resist the temptation to speed up on flats and uphill, and so I did albeit a bit moderate compared to what I would usually crank up. Puasa kan...

Oh, and my odometer reached 5,000 km this morning. It would be a bit earlier during the Night Ride a few days prior, but during that time the Hollowpoint was without the sensor. I went from 4,000 km during late April to 5,000 km in early September. That's about 4 months of riding, or on average, 250 km per month. Well, that's pretty much with what I've calculated earlier. Anyway, that's including the jamboree rides and a few night rides which means, it is still quite an average to hit 250 km/month. Hopefully I'll reach another 1,000 km in another 4 months time insyaAllah. We'll see how it goes.