Description

Start off on the broken, overhanging section in the middle of the alcove face. Then transition to face climbing with large and small crimps. Almost all of the holds are good until the last move. This difficult crux slabby move is devious and insecure.

Location

This alcove is around to the right and faces the opposite direction as the main face. To get there, hike as you would to the main face but continue up the scree and talus field instead of taking the trail right. Pass the very steep wall with 4 routes on it, right after take a sharp left in the alcove. Canít miss it. This route is the second to the right (going left to right).

Protection

5 or 6 bolts and anchor chains. Shares anchors with route to the right. Helmet isn't a bad idea.

This, the second line from left to right in the Alcove, is very entertaining. The start is a little nervy overhang. Then you get onto a sweet face with solid edges and a couple mono pockets before being confronted with the slabby arete crux.

This route was extremely fun to me - it had a little bit of everything. I would definitely suggest stick-clipping the first bolt! The start is an cruxy, overhanging section that leads into solid medium to small crimps on a vertical face. The final slopey arete move is probably the least "secure" but also the most interesting move on the route. I highly suggest it.

I've done it twice now. The beginning, through the first bolt, is hard and bouldery - stick clip for sure. The second clip is exciting. The rest of it is just plain good stuff with a complete change of pace at the top crux.

The clipping jug for the first bolt is primed to rip off. A huge heads up when climbing this route as you have to weight the hold pretty heavily with both hands and feet. It's a judgment call for sure, but this hold's probably not sticking around much longer.