Culture-Bending Salad

Published 4:00 am, Wednesday, August 23, 2000

Few appetizers are as refreshing and delicious as the melon salad at Ponzu.

It's a marvelous concoction created by John Beardsley. Chunks of watermelon, honeydew and cantaloupe are bathed in lemongrass dressing made with lemon and lime juice, ginger and a secret ingredient: Thai fish sauce. A contrasting crunch is added by a sprinkling of peanuts and shavings of the watermelon rind.

Many dishes at Ponzu have an equally creative twist. Beardsley interprets the cuisines and techniques of several Asian countries and combines them with the best of California ingredients. For example, the menu might include: from Korea, grilled flatiron steak dotted with sesame seeds; from Vietnam, paper- thin slices of raw beef carpaccio accented with mint, cucumber and peanuts; from China, sticky hoisin ribs, and from Japan, seared tuna.

The interior, like the food, gently bends cultures. The impressive curved bar near the entrance has fish aquariums built into the back wall. A curved ramp rises gently to the main dining area. The area in back, draped in shimmering fabric, helps to dampen the sound and adds a cozy feel.

SECRETS OF SUCCESS

-- Thai fish sauce. This background flavor gives the dressing a complexity that balances the sweet fruit and tart citrus.

-- Watermelon rind. The shaved rind has a texture not unlike fennel and adds a pleasant crunch to the salad.

THAI MELON SALAD WITH LEMONGRASS DRESSING

INGREDIENTS:

Dressing

-- 3/4 cup sugar

-- 1/4 cup water

--1 1/2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

--1 stalk lemongrass (white part only), finely chopped

--2 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced, or grated zest of 1 lime

-- 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

-- 1/2 cup fresh lime juice

-- 1/2 cup Thai fish sauce

-- 1/2 red Fresno chile, seeded and minced

Melon Salad

--1 1/2 pounds watermelon

--1 pound cantaloupe, peeled and seeded

--1 pound honeydew melon, peeled and seeded

--Grated zest of 1 lemon

--Leaves from 1/2 bunch Thai basil

-- 1/2 cup chopped toasted peanuts

INSTRUCTIONS: Combine the sugar, water, ginger, lemongrass and lime leaves in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Immediately remove from heat and let stand for 10 minutes.

To make the salad: Using a potato peeler or a sharp knife, remove the green rind from the watermelon. Cut away the white flesh and thinly slice it. Cut the red flesh into large dice (discard seeds, if desired) and place in a large bowl, along with the slices of white.

Cut the cantaloupe and honeydew into large dice and add to the watermelon. Add the lemon zest and basil leaves.

Drizzle the dressing over the fruit and let stand for at least 10 minutes, but no longer than 2 hours. This resting time allows the flavors to soak into the melon.