This soup makes the perfect dish for a chilly day. Add or substitute any vegetables, to taste and preference.

You can also make it with either of two kinds of Japanese noodle—soba or udon—or the Chinese equivalents. You'll find both in oriental food stores and natural markets.We like soba noodles, which, unlike udon (thick wheat noodles) contain at least 30 percent buckwheat. (Soba means “buckwheat” in Japanese.)

Buckwheat is rich in beneficial antioxidant flavonoids and relatively low in digestible starch, as it is the seed of a green plant, not a cereal grain. (Whole wheat and corn kernels contain significant amounts of flavonoids as well, but not the bounty in buckwheat.) Buckwheat is richer in proteins (12‒15 percent) and the essential amino acid lysine (5‒7 percent), than cereal grains.We also like to mix regular (beige) and mugwort (green) soba, which some brands do for you. Mugwort soba is made with a bit of wild mugwort (yomogi) powder, to give the noodles a rich green color, more nutrients, and the reputed tonic benefits of this traditional anemia remedy.

The optional cilantro garnish will add a Thai accent—just chop a little up and sprinkle it over the soup before serving.

Drain the salmon, reserving the liquid. Remove any skin and bones, if desired, then break the salmon into large chunks. Set aside.

Put the vegetable stock into a wok or large saucepan and add the reserved salmon liquid, chilli and soy sauce. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.

Put the spring onions, broccoli and sugar snap peas or mangetout into the wok or saucepan and simmer for about 5‒6 minutes. Add the mushrooms and udon noodles and cook for 2‒3 more minutes. Add the salmon chunks and stir very gently to combine.