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Immigration to the U.S. from the South American country of Colombia has increased since the 1960s -- first to New York City and then, starting in the late 1970s, primarily to Miami. By 1987, Colombian Americans were one of Miami's fastest-growing ethnic groups, and in 1994, an estimated 84,000 Colombian people were living in Dade County. Such an influx cannot help but influence an area's culture and cuisine. Along with Cuban cooking, Colombian food is the most readily available Spanish fare in Miami.

Perro Caliente Colombiano (Colombian Hot Dogs)

Most large cities seem to have a hot-dog stand on every street corner, but in Colombia this humble food has been raised to the level of art. The tradition is observed by Colombian immigrants to Miami at an enormous number of outlets, from humble street vendor carts to atmospheric diners. The salchichas -- hot dogs -- are boiled, then topped with coleslaw, ketchup, mayonnaise, mustard, pineapple sauce and potato chips. With all of the above, napkins are a must. The pineapple sauce -- salsa piña -- and meat create a delicious blend of sweet and savory. Regional variations in Colombia include topping the entire recipe with a hunk of melted mozzarella cheese in Cali, where some street vendors also add bacon. In Medellin, two quail or Cornish hen eggs are added on top, or small pieces of chopped regular boiled eggs, and salsa rosada -- ketchup and mayo mixed together. In Bogota, hot dogs come with pineapple chunks, not a puree sauce, and chopped onions rather than coleslaw. When first visiting a Colombian restaurant in Miami, perro caliente Colombiano are a must.

La Moon

La Moon (lamoonrestaurantmiami.com) has two distinct personalities. During daylight hours, office workers take out their lunches and Latino families line up for dinner, but Thursday through Saturday -- when the restaurant stays open till 6 a.m. -- La Moon becomes a late-night hangout for clubbers on their way home. The restaurant features tasty, substantial food at relatively low prices, and with a backdrop of dancing clubbers wearing almost nothing. Most staff members speak only Spanish, but they make up for it by serving up generous plates of grilled pork or beef with red beans and rice or plantains, whole fried fish with rice or pan-seared salmon. First-timers should try the crispy, savory arepas -- corn pancakes -- that are filled with cheese; order a meat topping from chicken, ham, sausage, bacon or chicarrones -- fried pork rind. The highlight of the menu, though, is always perro Colombiano. Colombians love these hot dogs served with mountains of sweet, tangy toppings, so asking for a light portion will fall on deaf ears.

San Pocho

Hidden in a Little Havana strip mall, San Pocho (sanpocho.com) remains essentially undiscovered outside of its own neighborhood. The decor is minimal, the seating uncomfortable and the menu is completely in Spanish, although a number of the servers are bilingual. None of this matters because the food is sublime. For breakfast, eschew the Cuban toast that can be bought anywhere on Calle Ocho in Little Havana; instead, order arepas, pandebono, hot chocolate and soft sweet bread with your "calentao." These empanadas are a great value for the money. Colombian empanadas are a different breed from the Spanish or Argentinean versions; fried to a crisp finish, they are served with aji, a spicy scallion relish, on the side. San Pocho has a small take-out window and also sells Colombian curios that some might consider tacky but others may find to be an essential souvenir of a Miami visit.

Medellin Colombian Fusion

Although it's slightly north of Miami proper, Medellin Colombian Fusion (no website; 4631 N. State Road 7; Coconut Creek; 954-755-0941) is worthy of note. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week and serving typically hearty Colombian food, the prices are low and beautifully presented food is served promptly by friendly staff. A possible downside for those desiring a private dining experience is the proximity of the tables; it can feel almost like you're eating with the people sitting at the next table. Highly recommended is bandeja paisa, Colombia's national dish, a thin-pounded steak served with chicarrones or chorizo -- spicy sausage -- plus a fried egg, guacamole, and more rice and red beans than most people can eat. Empanadas with your choice of beef, chicken or cheese are served with a rustic green-onion salsa. The "fusion" in the name is drawn from dishes such as red snapper smothered in vibrant criollo sauce or grilled chicken marinated in garlic and wine -- all in equally huge portions.

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About the Author

John Cagney Nash began composing press releases and event reviews for British nightclubs in 1982. His material was first published in the "Eastern Daily Press." Nash's work focuses on American life, travel and the music industry. In 1998 he earned an OxBridge doctorate in philosophy and immediately emigrated to America.

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