Three Great Bottles of American Saison, the Gatorade of Beers

This summer, drink like a Belgian farmer and knock back some farmhouse ale, a.k.a. saison. The thirst-quenching brew is ideal for hot days

Photograph by Romulo Yanes

Saison is less a style of beer than it is a state of mind: a down-to-earth brew made for easy, summertime refreshment. Invented in Belgium, saison (French for “season”) was traditionally brewed with whatever grain was on hand–barley, rye, oats. Last year’s hops? A handful of spices? Why not? Add a peppery, fruity yeast (the Belgian trademark), leave the beer to mellow in winter, and pop the cork the next summer, when the brew is at its dry, effervescent peak.

Saison was the Gatorade of the 1800s: hydrating and–at least compared with the brackish European well water–restorative. These days, it’s often referred to in America as farmhouse ale, and though it’s still easy-drinking, crisp, and relatively low in alcohol, it doesn’t skimp on flavor like other so-called lawn-mower beers.

Perhaps that’s why saison happens to be the secret darling of an industry smitten with the big and boozy. Ask even the most extreme craft brewer what he drank with dinner last night, and chances are he’ll say, “Well, saison.” Complex enough to keep the pros busy but rustic enough for the workaday masses, saison is blue-collar beer done right: all flavor, no pretense–a picnic in a bottle. –William Bostwick

Three American Saisons to Try

Stateside Saison, Stillwater Artisanal AlesBaltimoreThis farmhouse specialist makes a beguiling, sage-spiced version as well as this smooth brew with tropical notes.

Le Merle, North Coast Brewing Co.Fort Bragg, CAWhat begins as floral and effervescent, like a chilly white wine, finishes with a fruity fullness.

Bam Biere, Jolly Pumpkin Artisan AlesDexter, MICheek-suckingly tart, this one seems to actually make you thirstier. That’s not a bad thing–unless you’re drinking the last bottle.