Although it has a narrow street frontage this is a deceptively large restaurant, high-ceilinged and extending way back into an old building.

This Dublin restaurants décor is unfussy modern, for the most part, with wooden floors, simple bare-topped tables and leather 'bus seat' banquettes or chairs that would look at home in a country kitchen.

Aside from a very large chandelier and some unusual artwork, the main decorative theme is a whole wall of mismatched plates, echoing the traditional kitchen dresser, a good idea that lends warmth and informality; it adds up to a comfortably stylish setting for a good choice of menus that are strong on house specialities. They offer something different from the standard fare and coeliac friendly food is highlighted.

Food from the rotisserie is the main speciality, also sociable sharing plates.To start you might share a tasty plate of rotisserie style chicken wings, for example - served stylishly on a wooden platter with a cooling raita dip and the wings sitting on very good mixed salad leaves, it comes with a finger bowl and is really delicious.

With over twenty main courses offered on the à la carte, there really is something to please everyone. Lovers of suckling pig will be very happy as this is another speciality; boned stuffed and rolled, it has plenty of the mandatory crispy skin and comes (surprisingly perhaps) with duck fat roasted potatoes and delicious warm caramelised onions on mixed salad leaves - but be warned, it's a very generous dish.

Fish cookery is also good - yellow fin tuna, for example: marinated in balsamic and cayenne, this well cooked and atttactively served dish comes with carefully chosen accompaniments such as warm potato salad, scallions, capers and tomatoes - the warm potato salad and capers compliment this dish especially well.

Finish perhaps with a savoury flavour from a good cheese board, or share a plate of very nicely made chocolate pannacotta with orange and cappuccino ice cream ...

To accompany, an interesting wine list with short tasting notes offers a good choice of wines by the glass, carafe and bottle, and includes a couple of rosé and sparkling wines and one champagne.

The value offered is good and black-uniformed staff with good menu knowledge provide efficient, if slightly offhand, service - it would be nice to see a little extra warmth and hospitality.

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