1st I drilled the HPR reg bottom cap with the smallest metal drill bit I could found on home depot
screw the cap all the way
mark with a sharpie
unscrew it
always drill in the spring section

2nd I drilled the LPR with the same above

3rth I used a plastic cap you can use a standard pen cap, I used a dental syringe cap and didnt have to cut anything
meassure it and check if it dosent goes further than the bolt tip
drill a hole on the tip and fill it with JB WELD
then I Buff the tip of the bolt guide and use JB WELD to join them together

4rth I cut some air hose and then I start adding inserts untill my FPS start to drop

or

you can get this at walmart for 5 bucks
I cleaned with acetone the bolt pin
leave the o rings
mix a small amount of paste and do the cones near the orings
after it cured for 3 minutes "semi firm" take out the orings and clean the groove
mix a small some more and add in the middle
let it stay for 15 minutes
lube o rings and chorno
if U add too much just sand from the middle
if it chrono HI you can clean with acetone the middle and add some more
this is the final result after sanding till got the correct FPS

the draw back is that I cant use a GM bolt because I tune it to a stock bolt

so if U tune it to a GM bolt prolly you will need to add
if tuned to a stock bolt and want to use a GM you will need to sand till you get the FPS

what do I get from this?

well the holes boost the recharge rate and the stock reg can go head to head with a AKA or a 360 reg

The LPR gauge pin will only move 15 PSI of recharge

FPS are tighter

you can go lower LPR cause its recharging faster

Im got a extra pod than than hose mod prolly same shots like the 4b new bolt , I think because you fine tune it with the sand paper

the hose mod is better than the tape mode because it never peel off

the no rollback tip will give you a 10 FPS boost & the paintball wont rollback to the bolt hole

If you look, many HPRs have a small hole drilled in the spring area. I took a look and my BL 360 reg and AKA sidwinder had these holes already.
As Juit stated...the hole vents back pressure in the reg, causing the reg to recharge quicker. I also noticed that the LPR on my EGO 07 had a hole also.

Won't be playing anytime soon as I am still recovering from ACL replacement surgery. It is at the freezing mark here, so just going out to a field is not going to work that great either.

Dry firing so far, it works and no issues.

Really like this mod as the quest HPR is so simple to maintain and i like a purging reg better than one that holds a charge. If this makes it perform as good as a BL 360 or sidwinder.....that is awesome.

If you look, many HPRs have a small hole drilled in the spring area. I took a look and my BL 360 reg and AKA sidwinder had these holes already.
As Juit stated...the hole vents back pressure in the reg, causing the reg to recharge quicker. I also noticed that the LPR on my EGO 07 had a hole also.

Won't be playing anytime soon as I am still recovering from ACL replacement surgery. It is at the freezing mark here, so just going out to a field is not going to work that great either.

If anything, I would say that it is the reg's reaction rate that is improved by adding the vent hole - the improvement in recharge rate follows on from there. The quicker that the reg responds to a change in pressure, the sooner that it will start to recharge.

Basically, as it stands, the reg is more or less sealed. Yes, a little air can move around the threads of the adjuster screw, but flow will be severly restricted.

So, as the reg cycles, and the piston moves back and forth, it is having to compress the air between the piston and the adjuster screw as it moves back, which obviously slows the movement of the piston.

On the assumption that some of that air does escape slowly around the adjuster, then as piston moves forwards, it will create a vacuum behind it, impeding it's forward movement, as the adjuster screw will again slow the flow of air back in to the LPR.

So basically, restricted air flow in to and out of the LPR, behind the piston, impedes the smooth movement of the piston. Placing an air hole between the piston and the adjuster screw allows air to move freely in and out of the LPR housing as the piston moves back and forth, allowing the piston to move more freely.

So after finally getting around to getting the ol' scuba refilled I went ahead and added the vent holes on both the HPR and LPR caps just where Juit showed on his. After some ruff testing (read dry firing a bunch while watching lpr and then reballing over my X-Radar crono, you know the gray one) I have to admit the change is very noticeable. The biggest change I saw in the LPR was the reset point was much more stable, the reg recharged as fast as before as best as my eyes could tell though. But the Quest was more consistent overall on the crono. So thanks for good advice Juit.