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I think the weak link here is the touch panel. I'll bet the RF is inducing a small current in the panel wiring and causing the capacitive discharge buttons to fire. After a bit of this, the random firings lock up the logic circuit and the panel goes unresponsive.

Not that this helps solve your problem, but it also leads one to think that adding chokes on the power cord may not be a solution. Shielding the case may be the best option.

FWIW, I have a 2.4/5MHz hybrid wireless router sitting on the same shelf as one of my HR24s, and if I put it closer than 8 or 10 inches to the HR24 IR remote control functionality gets flakey.

I think you're on the right track with this. Makes sense. Especially since all of the weird behavior are commands that could be issued using those capacitive touch buttons. No signal issues, just random commands entered with button instruction available on the front panel.

I don't have a radio transmitter, but I have had a similar problem with my HR24 two separate times (each one lasted about three or four days). The HR24 would change channels and skip through the guide without my touching the remote (I am using IR, by the way). On each occasion, I rerouted cables and moved some of the other equipment slightly, and the problem eventually went away, not sure exactly why. On the DirecTV technical forum, a couple of people have reported similar behavior. It's only with the H24/HR24, and I was convinced it was some sort of interference affecting the touch panel.
Titan25's comment about his router is interesting, my hybrid wireless router is actually sitting above the HR24. Next time (if) I have a problem, I will try just moving that and see if it has any effect.

I run 700 w out on 80 - 10 m. My 80m antenna's base is only 30' from the HR20-700, HR21-100 and H20-200. All set to RF remote. No unusual behavior at all The 40m antenna is another 15' away, and then there is the beam on top of the 50' tower. No problems. Lower az/el antennas for 70cm and 2m show no issues with D* gear either.

I do get some OTA desense from my 2 meter (144.390) aprs signal. I can observe better than 30 dB of desense without my 1/4 wave stub. With the stub, it cures everything but OTA channel 13 (around 210 Mhz), which still dies. The front end of the HR20-700 is not all that great on OTA. The same antenna connected to my Sammy TV shows no desense at all.

The problem you are describing looks like overload, caused by very poor RF shielding in the sat box. Since you can cure it with a tin-foil electrostatic shield, I think you will need to stick with that type of cure. The sat box is permitting HF signals to penetrate the chassis and then there isn't enough rf bypassing/choking inside the box to deal with it.

You'll have to kill it before it gets to the inside of the box, and the fact that the tin foil works, shows you how to proceed with the cure. I doubt the power line common mode choke approach will work.

I'm a VE with our local group. It's seriously just a multiple choice test that where the q/a bank of questions is publicly published. You should give it a shot.

N6LY

I bought the ARRL amateur radio Technicians hand book. It not taking the test that is a concern for me. Im very versed in RF and electronics. But the ham radio equipment isnt cheap. Thats what holding me back mostly. Hey using 50w may not be legal. But i live so far in the boonies that even that isnt powerful enough to go far.

I used to run 2kw on 11 before I was licensed, now I run QRP...Ironic?

The radio I have can go ABOVE the CB band. But I dont broadcast. It has SSB too. I listen to that. Plus use my Grundig G3 with SW and SSB. Much better on 3Mhz SSB here anyway. I have considered using the 10 meter "CB" radio for Ham if I can get licenced. If I could find a ARRL center near me. Closest one is over 1 hour away.

I don't realize 70cm was shared with devices...weird...maybe I need look at a current band plan...

Ed KE3JU

Yeah, it's the old "they can't cause interference, and have to accept interference" game, that nobody tests for or enforces. As hasan pointed out, there is a bunch of stuff on 430, but it is all very low power and generally won't cause interference to licensed stations.

I bought some 1/4 aluminum wire mesh from a hobby store. I also bought a big bag of ferrite chokes.

1. Place EVERY ferrite choke I bought on power cable. Same RFI happens....although now I can only get it to respond on 10m/100w. This new band is the same for every party the test. For some reason 80m isn't bothering it now.
2. Remove chokes and ground chassis to nearby cold water pipe. No luck. Remove new wire.
3. Spray painted on one side of the wire mesh (black). I was very proud of myself as I wrapped the HR24 like a Christmas present. I grounded it to the rear metal chassis. I wrapped the top and sides only, leaving the front panel free. I even took pictures because I was so proud. 10m/100w still causes RFI.
4. I break out the foil again. I wrap it front to back, leaving the sides exposed and torn in front to allow for IR control. Problem solved.....again.

I need to either get some superfine copper/wire mesh, or back some regular aluminum foil on black construction paper. Then proceed to wrap the IRD in black paper, leaving the sides open to vent. Hopefully that will work.

Even though I failed tonight, I still learned what I need to do. I even made up a neat connector for grounding the shield. I took an rg6 connector and made it up without a center pin. On the other end of the three inch cable, I stripped away all but the outer shielding, twisted the braid together. I poked that through the screen mesh and soldered it on. This way, I can just screw the rg6 connector onto my unused coax port on the back to use as a chassis ground point.

On a side note, does anyone wonder why there isn't a three prong cord used on this unit? I guess they get grounding through the coax shield? I double checked, my coax run is grounded at the dish.

I bought some 1/4 aluminum wire mesh from a hobby store. I also bought a big bag of ferrite chokes.

1. Place EVERY ferrite choke I bought on power cable. Same RFI happens....although now I can only get it to respond on 10m/100w. This new band is the same for every party the test. For some reason 80m isn't bothering it now.2. Remove chokes and ground chassis to nearby cold water pipe. No luck. Remove new wire.3. Spray painted on one side of the wire mesh (black). I was very proud of myself as I wrapped the HR24 like a Christmas present. I grounded it to the rear metal chassis. I wrapped the top and sides only, leaving the front panel free. I even took pictures because I was so proud. 10m/100w still causes RFI.4. I break out the foil again. I wrap it front to back, leaving the sides exposed and torn in front to allow for IR control. Problem solved.....again.

I need to either get some superfine copper/wire mesh, or back some regular aluminum foil on black construction paper. Then proceed to wrap the IRD in black paper, leaving the sides open to vent. Hopefully that will work.

Even though I failed tonight, I still learned what I need to do. I even made up a neat connector for grounding the shield. I took an rg6 connector and made it up without a center pin. On the other end of the three inch cable, I stripped away all but the outer shielding, twisted the braid together. I poked that through the screen mesh and soldered it on. This way, I can just screw the rg6 connector onto my unused coax port on the back to use as a chassis ground point.

On a side note, does anyone wonder why there isn't a three prong cord used on this unit? I guess they get grounding through the coax shield? I double checked, my coax run is grounded at the dish.

The fight shall continue tomorrow.

You have confirmed the difference between an electrostatic shield and a grounded shield. An electrostatic shield is only effective if not connected to the proximate ground system (like power line ground). Once you connect the shield to ground, you get coupling from the existing poor rf ground and lose the "electrostatic isolation".

This is why the aluminum foil works by itself, but the grid of wires connected to a ground don't.

The problem may be two fold:

Direct radiation, which the aluminum foil kills.

Common mode coupling which the grounded shield wired actually make worse, not better.

Stick with the electrostatic shield.

Possible elegant solution:

There a some companies that make a spray on copper ....Form up something that can go around the receiver (maybe card board?), spray it with the copper paint...it should work like the tin foil, but be more aesthetically pleasing.

Exact same thing happens to my Direct TV control box...when I tune up, it turns the control box turns off. I think my problem is my radio is in the same room as the router and the SWM box that connects my TVs together via the cable internet. From what I gather here, it looks like good old fashioned foil wrap...I will let you guys know. Thanks!