Tuesday, January 27, 2015

So, my neighbor and good friend went in for knee replacement surgery. I wanted to get her something of a care package, because she is always so helpful and generous to us. I ended up putting together the 'stuff' of this basket for under $10 bucks. I wanted to do more with the 'pretty' factor, but there was so much stuff, I ended up just delivering it 'as is', and let her discover things as she dug down. Here's the photo I took of it quick before running it over to her.

I really didn't have more than $10 to spend on it, but I thought it turned out pretty well. I included things based on what I'd heard and read of other people being stuck in the hospital complain about, and things I wish I'd had that first week when I broke my leg. In some ways, this gift basket is incomplete, because there were some things I know she'd want to have on hand, but already had plenty of. Like, I know she has 30 hairbrushes, so didn't get her one, but I know she never seems to have a hair tie.

But how did I get all that for $10, AND a basket? Well, first I had to shop the house. Like in decorating, we often end up with things that we have too many of already, or simply don't/won't use. Make sure that what you provide is sanitary/sanitized (they are already having health issues!) and looks in mint or near new condition. Second, I made one thing myself from household ingredients, and put in an old small spice bottle. The label I should've worked hard on, but I wanted to get her the gift before she left for the hospital. I ended up at the thrift store and saw the perfect book for someone about to be bed-bound for 2 weeks. The rest of the items I found at the Dollar Store.

Earplugs, new in the bag, from the stash of 100 I bought when I played in a metal band,

Cleaned out medicine bottle labeled "CR's Ear Plugs" - a place to put them to stay clean and not get thrown out/lost right away.

Notepad - re-gifted, mom sent me 4 stacks

pens (make sure each pen works and has lots of ink) -

4 hair ties tied with a scrap of ribbon (I had just opened a new pack, so I found the prettiest colors that I hadn't worn yet.)

Small bag of cough drops from a BOGO deal

BB&B Lotion, regifted Secret Santa (too strong of scent for me!)

Silly Putty toy w/stick on body parts- regifted gag gift

Made It Myself:

Dry Shampoo Powder - cornstarch, cocoa powder (as she has darker hair), and mint essential oil. I told her she would smell of hot chocolate.

From the Thrift Store -

"150 Ways To Play Solitaire" Book, 50% off day, cost $0.50.

From the Dollar Store:

Back scratch-er

Fuzzy socks w/sticky bottoms

Eye mask

Eyeglass/Device Screen Cleaner w/microfiber rag

Kleenex-pocket sized

Metal tweezer/clipper/cuticle kit

Hand sanitizer

Clorox wipes

Purple Basket

There are a multitude of ways I could have spent less, such as sewing my own eye mask, making my own hand sanitizer and Clorox wipes, or carving my own back scratcher, but in the time I had, I put together a basket that was happily received. In the process of you making a gift for that newly-bed ridden friend, I've provided a complete list of things to consider to include.

Complete List of Possible Contents For

"Injured and Immobile" Gift Basket

Entertainments:Magazines of their interestBooks of their interest, or gift card for eBooks if they are an eReader/tablet userBookmarksPuzzle books, either word find/crossword/sudoku

"150 Ways To Play Solitaire" Book, or similar rules/variations book

Deck of cards

Silly Putty, or any tactile toy to fiddle with (Rubrix cube, Slinky, etc)

Comfort:Back scratch-erFuzzy socks w/sticky bottoms - provide warmth, and allowed in hospitals (they need to be sticky.)Earplugs - provide something to put them in when not in use if they didn't come with oneEye maskCough drops - coughing after surgery hurts, because it tenses your whole bodyLotion Chapstick
Any favorite or basic 'snacking' items
Any favorite beverages Tea bags or coffee, and if you know they are on a couch and move it there, a gallon of water for the brewer.Soft pillowcase (great for cold weather)Heating padsLarge water pitcher (though often provided by the hospital)

Practical:Notepad w/pensEyeglass/Device Screen Cleaner w/microfiber rag - don't let smudges accumulate Roll of quarters - for them or visitors to hit the candy machine if neededLightweight extension cord and/or strip- for keeping their devices within reach while chargingReading light, like an LED battery lamp

Keeping Clean and Tidy:Kleenex-pocket sized packs so small enough to keep on the person for the random sniffle/spill/etc.Hair tiesHandkerchief for hairDry Shampoo - good when not showeringSmall hair brushSmall mirrorBreath mintsMetal tweezer/clipper/cuticle kit - also practical, as having little 'tools' at hand's reach can prove useful for many reasons.Hand sanitizer - because you can't get up and wash your handsClorox wipes - keeping clean without the sink and suds.

Container Ideas:Wicker Baskets - from thrift store, washed or repainted, or from Dollar store
Paper covered cardboard boxesPlastic bins/basketsTin cansBuckets Mugs/Coffee cups/water pitchersTrash canPaper bags
Any container works, so long as the stuff fits, and the container is either a)made of recycled material or b)able to be re-used/re-purposed.

Monday, January 26, 2015

So, you know that feeling when you finally get through that huge box of papers you've been putting off sorting? I had the feeling, but I also had almost 10lbs of papers that should be shredded. I was going to bring it to Staples or something, figuring they'd have a big bin of stuff they shred and I could just dump it in. Well, they had a bin, but they charge $0.49 a lb for the service of shredding it. I had almost 10 lbs of paper! I didn't feel like spending $5 to have it shredded. So, how much is a paper shredder? Staples has a basic, no frills straight cut shredder for $19.89. Well, I don't feel like spending $19.89, either! What's a girl to do?

Simple. Browse the thrift stores. For some reason, paper shredders accumulate at certain locations (those near concentrations of small businesses, especially.) Once you find the store, wait for a sale day.

The Paper Shredder
I went on a 50% off day, and found this OfficeMax shredder with a basket for $5.00 (50% off from the $10.00 they were asking.) I was able to test it at the store, and this thrift store has a store-credit return policy, even on electronics, if brought back in 14 days. Thankfully, I didn't have to return it, as it worked like a charm.

So, after successfully shredding all my paper that I had to, I basically have a free paper shredder. I plan to leave it by my mail sort area, so it will double as a recycle bin for paper. Thinking about it, it is hard to buy a small trash bin new for $5, these days. I may have to do a post on all the crafty things I will attempt with my easily made paper strips.

Other ways to shred:
Other ways to get paper shredded for free could be asking a local business you deal with (consider one that handles legal or health documents) to see if you could place a one-time or occasional deposit in their certified shredder bin. They pay by the pound, usually, so the dollar or so you might cost them in weight they'd give you as a perk for your business. Some libraries,too, have these shredder bins, too, so it never hurts to ask.

Burning of paper can make it unreadable without a paper shredder, so roll up some paper logs if you have a fireplace or fire pit.

And then there was paper...

So, this is what my first 5lbs of shredded paper looked like! Doing a little hunting online, I think I'm going to try make it into paper firepit logs, for my mother-in-law's fire pit. Just gotta wait for a sunny day (which, in Arizona, you'd think wouldn't be a problem, right?) Check out other ideas collected on Doralene Altizer Bailey's Pinterest Board, "What to do with shredded paper."

Paper or plastic? Both.
Deciding to have a back up plan for the shredded paper (in case I don't get to the project) I checked and curb recycling takes shredded paper. The downside is they require it to be in a CLEAR plastic bag. I don't buy garbage bags, let alone clear ones. I noticed Staples carries clear 15 gallon garbage bags, $11.99 for 50/Box. I didn't want to spend $12 bucks for what would probably be a 10 year supply for me. What to do?

Well, here is where the line between frugal and cheap starts to blur with me. I was visiting a friend in the hospital, and I noticed the hospital has all clear garbage bags in their bin. Remembering my days at the nursing home, I peaked under the bag in the bin, and sure enough, there was a roll of 'em. I ripped off three bags and tucked them in my pocket (while my friend laughed like a woman on pain meds). I figure the hospital pays $0.05 a bag, so I made sure to pick up all the bits of garbage I found on my way out, including in the parking lot. That had to save the custodial staff $0.15 worth of time, right? Line... me... fuzzy.

By the way, there is no greater feeling than sitting on the couch, shredding documents like an Enron CEO. After you do it for long enough, you actually feel your eyes getting shifty.

Sunday, January 25, 2015

Book Cleaning Tips and Re-Gift-ability Scores:
So, at the thrift store, you see a book that you know Mrs. _______ would love. You have to get her a birthday gift next month. Do you get the book used to gift to her?

The answer: It depends.
It depends on both what kind of person Mrs. ______ is, and what condition the book is in. Here are the common ailments of used books and how you can try correct them, as well as how they affect the books ability to become a gift to someone new.Common Used Book Ailments / Re-Gift-ability:Germs - All fearful of the microbes, most all germs are dead within days (MRSA can take up to a few weeks) of being outside a human body. Check out this post here for more info on their life spans outside a human body. So, if you are worried about a used book bringing in some sickness, put it in 'quarantine' (or, like me, forget you bought it and leave in the car for a week.) Don't wipe down books with alcohol or windex/ammonia or bleach, as chemicals tend to make plastic brittle and paper yellow. Wiping down the exterior cover of a book to remove smudges is fine, just do so with a barely-damp cloth and water, adding just a tiny smidgen of soap if you are really concerned about 'clean'. Any kids 'floppy' books can be hot water and soap bathed, and many cloth books are machine washable - just make sure to air dry them so they don't shrink.

Re-Gift-ability Score - 10

Don't let used status and unknown provenance prevent a book purchase as a gift. Plan ahead to have it cleaned/aired out before giving, make sure that the recipient wouldn't freak out if she were to know it was a used book, and you will be fine. However, common sense people - I would recommend avoiding the books with full-on boogers stuck on, as fluid stains don't really come off. (eeewwww.)

Sticker Removal -
To remove the sticker, methods vary, but I have good luck with the following. If the sticker is in a prominent place (front cover) then spot test the cover material with the oil to make sure it doesn't cause discoloration.

First, work up one corner of the sticker with fingernail or plastic knife edge, and then 'worry' at it, slowly pushing and pulling up a little bit more at a time, so the adhesive material is pulled up with each little tug and the paper doesn't separate from the adhesive. If it does, use a plastic butter knife edge or credit card to gently push any remaining paper fibers off. Then, with a drop of essential oil or Goo-Gone and a lint-free cloth, rub in circular motions to remove the adhesive gunk. Use as little oil as possible to get the job done. Wipe and buff the area to clear it of all oil. All done!

Re-Gift-ability Score -10

Most outside stickers can be removed from books without any sign they were ever there, so feel free to de-sticker and regift these books if otherwise fine. If the book is more than 5-10 years, peak under any older stickers to make sure it didn't fade unevenly (which makes it not a great gift).

General dust/dirt - Just sitting on a shelf accumulates a bit of dust and can turn pristine white pages a bit dull. To clean books page edges, hold the pages together tight, with the book's binder up, pages down. Wipe the page edges down with an 'eraser pad' (loose eraser particles in a puff bag) and let the eraser bits lift up and hold loose dirt. Take a soft, clean puffy brush (like that make-up blush brush you never actually used on anything) and run it after the eraser pad to remove eraser bits. If no brush, try a vacuum to remove static-clung eraser crumbs. If no eraser pad, blow dust off and gently rub over with an art gum eraser, then vacuum off crumbs.

Re-Gift-ability Score - 7

In general, books that look dirty aren't well received as gifts unless the person cares more about the topic than condition (just the 'perfect' book for that someone.) If the book cover/edges clean up well, gift away, but buy them with a back-up plan in mind, in case the dirt and dust won't budge.

Smells -
Paper is tiny fibers, and when a fiber takes up particles that smell, it doesn't willingly release it all at once. You can, however, mitigate smells like smoke, perfume, or animal (not so much ammonia) by speeding up the rate at which the fiber draws in other things. First, make sure the book is dried out. Second, consider a commercial dryer sheet between every few pages for a few days (masking over whatever smelly particles are still there). Try place the book in a bag or box with baking soda or clean kitty litter (absorption of particles by something else) - just keep the book from actually being in contact with those so it doesn't get dusty. Re-Gift-ability Score - 0-1
Smells often are not just unpleasant, but some can cause headaches or reactions to people with allergies. A book is held right up to the nose, nearly, so never buy a book for a gift if you can smell where it came from. If you de-stink one successfully and want to gift it, make sure that person doesn't have any allergies that could still be set off by the original cause of the smell.

Edge marks -

Kneadable, white polymer, or art gum erasers can help lift off dirt, pencil, smudges, and marks that accumulate on the sides of the pages. Art gum probably works best, because it attracts dirt but falls away in eraser crumbs without rubbing anything into the paper. Just hold the book shut tight and try keep the binder pointed up, pages out/down, so eraser bits don't fall between pages. If there is a 'sun tan' discoloring on the edges, you can take super fine sand paper and 'polish off' the edge to get down to white paper again, but this isn't recommended because it may be noticed when the book is opened if it has thicker pages.Re-Gift-ability Score - 7-8
Most edge marks are removable with a little care, and even if a faint darkening is still there, even new books take on these 'beauty marks' from packaging. Doubtful any but the OCD will even notice. Just make sure to try remove any that look like oily fingerprints.

Writing On the Inside Cover -
Many people gift books and sign the inside cover or inside first page. When re-gifting a book like this, or putting it in use for other reasons then your own reading, consider making a print out page with a new message to paste over top. Print the tag on thick paper, put PVA/white school glue on the back of tag as thin as possible, then adhere into book over writing. The key here is 'very thin' coating of glue, spread 'barely-there' with an old credit card or stiff plastic edge. Press a clean credit card or stiff plastic edge over the top of the paper as well, to ensure it is fully flat and smooth against the book and doesn't try to wrinkle when drying. Printing on cardstock will also help keep the printed image sharp. If you don't want to risk the drying wrinkles, consider printing on full sticker sheets, available at office supply stores, or using an acid-free spray adhesive. Cut to size and adhere.Re-Gift-ability Score - 2-4Although covering it up is a must if you are going to regift it to all but the most appreciative people, some people really get uncomfortable receiving 'someone else's' gift - like they weren't good enough to get their own. For really young children, I'd say go for it- they will love writing their name on the tag. For a little older children through teenagers, avoid it unless you know they'll love the book. Adults are hit or miss regarding this, so know the person you are gifting.

BTW: Here is a sample "book tag" I made for my sister's library of crafting books. Feel free to use this for your own books if you have a mind to (I may add a few other themed ones, later on):

Lifting cover corners -
When the very corners of a book have the plastic/laminate start to separate from the paperboard material, you can sometimes stop the progression with the lightest hand, a tiny brush, some white glue, and a 'shine' of clear nail polish for shiny plastic covers, or white elmer's glue for matte-finish covers or paperbacks. This can cause some coloring on the inside white paper of the cover (from absorbing moisture in either glue or polish), but it will keep the corner crisp. Re-Gift-ability Score - 5
Books, especially their bottom right corners, take some abuse, and a little wear won't subtract from a beautifully bound how-to book, or a can't wait to read paperback. However, don't gift these books to people who 'show off' their books as much as read them, or collect them. Most of my friends are already buying used books for themselves, so I hardly look at the corner tip conditions anymore, and glue them down just to keep them from getting worse.

Crayon -It's well known, the crayon drawings ruining otherwise pristine children's books. I was curious if there was a 'good' way to get the crayon off and dried a few online tips. I tried the dry magic eraser (don't), a kneadable pencil eraser (the best) and a white 'polymer' pencil eraser (2nd place). If you read about wax paper pulling it off, I think that is hoo-ey, or you need really high quality wax paper to make it work, because I tried that on a corner and it didn't even shine the crayon wax, let alone adhere it to the wax paper. The magic eraser (dry) wears off the surface of the page, taking off the wax, but I'm afraid it is too harsh, and for a colored kid's book page, this would just make the page look worn and colored on. Kneadable eraser, suggested by Crayola, removed the waxy sheen and some of the dye coloring, though it was still noticeble on white paper. Try this first if you have an art student rather than reader. The white polymer eraser removed about the same amount of wax and dye as the kneadable, though left a little more dye color behind. These methods can help lessen the look of the crayon, but I fear crayons, made of wax and dyes, will stay tight to the paper fibers they are drawn on. Re-Gift-ability Score - 0
Crayons negate a book for re-gifting, because someone else literally 'changed the story' with their crayon (remember The Purple Crayon?). However, these books can still be just given to kids that just like books, as it may not affect the enjoyment any. Know the kid, and try a kneadable or white eraser to mitigate the damage.

Pen and pencil-
Kneadable erasers or polymer erasers also work well for some pen and most pencil marks, as they are the softest erasers and pick up material as they are wiped over it. Gel pens tend to just smear. Re-Gift-ability Score - 1-3
It really depends on if the pen or pencil a) went across one page or is on every page, and b) the type of book. Many times you see penciled in notes throughout a book - if the topic is one that is hard to find books on, your friend may understand your purchasing used, and if he is studying the topic, may even get a kick out of someone else's notes. As for accidental streaks, one pen mark can easily be overlooked in a hefty reference book, but not so across a glossy picture in a coffee table book. If you can erase it, all the better, but save your energy for the books you know the recipient wants to read thoroughly and not 'look' at.

Loose pages -
Instant no-no for a re-gift, but to save a good book, use invisible tape and run it the entire length of the entire page that is falling out, taping the seam of first it to the page on its left (crease down tape with fingernail), then turn the page naturally, and repeat, taping the seam of it to the page to its right. Fully torn or ripped pages can be carefully aligned and taped, but will almost always look like they were torn or ripped, and most tapes aren't acid-free, so will be yellowing in a few years. If you really need the book to be repaired well, consider bringing it to the library and using a bit of their book repair tape (an acid-free tissue paper type tape with water activated adhesive that blends into paper and lets ink be read through it.) The only books that really are worth this effort, in my opinion, are required reference or education books that simply cost too much to not keep in repair.Re-Gift-ability Score -0
Don't bother. If there are pages coming loose, the book's binding system is likely not holding up, and the whole point of giving books is giving something of value that will last. Unless someone would want the book for ripping apart and crafting, don't consider gifting books with loose pages.

In my spend-thrift days of yesteryear, I was walking through Target and saw this OXO rolly garlic chopper. It was so COOL! I bought it. I barely knew how to cook at the time, and rarely used fresh garlic, and when I did use my new tool I realized it was really hard to clean out, afterwards. But I HAD to have it! $10.00 I spent on it, and it took up space in my drawer for a year, then ended up on a rummage sale for a $1. Not a good investment.

Now-a-days, I try hard to not to buy 'stuff' unless I know I need it or will use the dickens out of it. I always try to buy it used first, if that is safe and practical. However, I have found some tools in the kitchen that just save me enough to be worth whatever was paid for them.

I present to you Part 1: Hand Tools. These are simple things that could or are saving you either food, waste, money, time, or health. Here's how they do it, and what to look for if you need one.

Kitchen Towels -

Often called workhorses in the kitchen, the lowly kitchen towel in known for keeping counters dry
and clean, as well as drying hands, being fill-in pot holders, drying dishes and glasses, and soaking up spills. They stand in for kitchen art, with a burst of color or softness in the often monochrome, hard-surfaced kitchen, and sometimes become the curtains, too. They are there to serve warm bread, cover rising dough, roll out pastry dough on, dry and store lettuce, wrap up gifts, chase off flies and waft smoke away from the smoke alarm as your burned dinner cools. We use them so much, and so often, we don't even notice them, yet they're extended and sustained use will cut into the average 4 rolls of paper towels the average American family throws out each week. That adds up to a chunk of change you don't have to throw away.

If you're looking to get some, you can make them from material (4 hems), buy them used (only after assuring high quality condition) or you can buy new, as low as .38 each in an automotive cotton towel pack, to super pretty $20.00 a piece at a boutique. Here's what you need to know shopping:

Aim for all cotton for the most absorbent- turkish cotton is even better, as it has longer fibers and will absorb even more.

Check for no wear/discoloring at the fold lines or showing areas

Look for tight stitched hems on all four sides.

Look for 'lint-free' 'flat weave' towels, like flour sack material, for drying dishes (and get a separate one if you plan to use it for polishing metals, etc.)

Look for textured 'terry' or 'waffle-weave' towels for cleaning counters or drying hands, or any of the 'big' clean ups you may encounter.

Care is easy - just keep washing them every day or two, to prevent germs from gathering. Some people suggest you don't wash them with fabric softener or dryer sheets, which can create build up and limit their absorption ability. Others swear by drying out in the sun to keep white and fresh. I wash mine with a scoop of washing soda and a cup of vinegar added in with the small amount of detergent. Want to keep them sanitary longer? Read SheKnows, 5 Things Not To Do With A Dish Towel.

This 'tool', either a fancy Mist-O type pumping action mister or a dollar store spray bottle, can replace your reliance on PAM oil spray. Simply fill the bottle with the oil you wish to use, and spray/mist on your pans and bakeware or what have you when oiling or greasing is required. It can also add oil to your salads or popcorn if you want an even coating instead of the 'pouring it on' method. I've even used it to regularly oil the squeaky running wheel of a hamster (RIP Fuzzbutt.) All of this, without having to cough up money for store-bought cooking spray every month or 3. And speaking of coughing, ahem, don't use PAM spray because the propellant they list as there last ingredient is actually petroleum gas (10-18%), butane (7% or less) and propane (7% or less). Don't pay good money to have that sprayed in your food. Plus, those aerosol cans you won't be buying can't end up in the landfill. Good feelings, all around.

If you're looking to buy, get something new (you can't guarantee the last use of a spray bottle or cleaning of a mister.) You can choose between finding a spray bottle or a commercial mister. In my experience, a commercial pump-up mister like Misto works better than a spray bottle, but stops working so well, itself, after some time passes. Here's what you should consider in a spray bottle:

Find the smallest bottle with the widest tube running down inside.

Smaller makes cleaning easier

Smaller means less oil sits inside, and you use before it's rancid

Make sure the nozzle has a 'mist' option if possible, as sometimes 'spray' is a jet stream.

If you end up with a standard screw top sprayer, screw it in to a glass bottle, which will be easier to clean oil off.

For care, you will have to hot water clean the nozzle/sprayer regularly to keep it from clogging up (this goes for either, though commercial ones don't clog up nearly as fast, I think because of the pressure.) I recommend you have a place to hang up or place your spritzer that's near the stove/oven but away from heat/light, and it will get used.Photo courtesy of Anne Swoboda, (C) Common License, modified from original.Water Filtration System (and a Reusable Water Bottle)

Your tap water production site is regularly checked by EPA and other factions to ensure its quality. However, water sources and treatments vary, so if you just can't stand the taste of water from your tap, find yourself a water filter instead of buying bottled water over and over again. Though these filters cost money, and at least some parts need to be replaced regularly, their impact is nothing to their equivalent water output in disposable water bottles. Did you know it takes 3 gallons of water to bottle 1 gallon of water? Silly! Also, more common filter companies like Brita have started take-back and recycling programs to help you recycle their filters. So, if it helps you drink the tap water, buy the water filter.

On a side note, tap water has to conform to more standards than bottled water, so it should always be 'safe enough to drink'. However, to find your area's water quality report card, find local drinking water information at the EPA website, or just web search for your city's name+water standards.

Consider a permanent installation if a home owner, which uses less resources over its longer lifetime.

Removable or portable filtration is usually all you can do if you rent the home, but these are super affordable options.

Consider other/fringe benefits of different filter systems, like how water softeners save on wear/tear/staining of everything in your home with softer water (no more scrubbing orange-stained tubs!)

Make sure to change the filter or update parts regularly, and get systems checked for costlier filtration systems. No matter the size and type of system you get, it needs to be maintained to be effective. Drinking straight from the tap is always healthier than drinking from an ancient filter that may put more in the water than remove.Photo courtesy of Rob Ellis, (C) Common License, modified from original.

Rubber Spatula -

Food won’t be wasted if you have rubber spatulas - think flexible food scrapers - in different sizes at the ready. Whether using them to get the last spread of mayo, or scraping an extra muffin of batter from the sides of a bowl, these flexible wonders get you the last drop, plop, and scrape from containers. More food put where you want it means less waste in either your garbage can or down your drain. Also, save time and use them when making lots of sandwiches, as they spread food better and faster than a hard butter knife. Smooth on the home-made frosting to the home-made cake to give a professional look for the party. I've even used my hardest wide silicone rubber spatula with curved edges as a serving spoon when dishing from my ceramic pans, so they work to save your Teflon or ceramic coated cooking gear from scratches.

If you are looking to buy, consider used only if they are in really good condition - age effects their flexibility/use, especially the old rubber ones from the 80's. I recommend getting at least 3 different sizes (batter bowl big, bakeware medium, and jar scraping small), and 2 more big ones if you're a major baker. Here's what to look for when shopping:

either all one piece, or the head and handle separate easily for cleaning (some do have the head just that tightly sealed to the handle that no gunk builds up, but it's better to know no germs are building up inside.)

I prefer wood handles where I can get them, as anything plastic I seem to melt, but the smallest spatulas are usually plastic stick handles.

For one piece spatulas, and all other types, just clean after each use with soapy water. For 2 piecers, pull apart occasionally and clean any angles or crevices with a corner of a wash cloth and really hot water. For solid 2 parters, just check to make sure the handle and head are firmly attached and no gunk builds up. Wood handles should be treated once or twice a year at least to prevent cracking/warp.

Funnels

We don't often think about funnels as kitchen tools, because often we are pouring things into a larger bowl or pan than what we hold. But, if you buy much of anything in bulk or are getting into making things yourself, you will learn the NEED for a few different-sized funnels. The 'super funnel' will let you pour flour into a smaller mouthed jar with hardly a dusting of white on the counter. The canning funnel lets you pour nuts, grains, or homemade chocolate sauce into standard mason jars easily without waste (and it's essential when canning, too.) The bottle funnel can be used for decanting, filling up syrup bottles, or pouring in powdered spices. Less food on the floor is more in your tummy!

If you are looking to buy, I recommend having one 'large mouth' funnel, like a canning funnel, and one that has a 1/4" bottle spout, for moving spices or liquids into small bottles. If you don't use funnels much, consider making funnels from plastic bottles and using them until you find your liftetime got-to-have quality funnels. Buying cheap funnels, 3 for $1, will also get you by, but unless you really need that bottle spout, just use what you have around the house for the occasional pour. When making your own, consider:

A funnel made from the "milk jug" mouth size that is symmetrical (Like V8 Splash bottles) work well for pouring bags of bulk goods items into 2-4" mouthed containers.

A 20oz/2 liter bottle (or anything with same size mouth) works great for getting liquids into any jars with at least a little bigger mouth.

For really small mouthed bottles to fill, you can really stretch it and use a bit of balloon. Either cut the widest part to stretch up over your 20oz cut funnel, or cut off just the length of neck and mouth of the balloon and stretch it over the mouth of your bigger funnel. Shove the other end into the bottle to fill and it will trickle where it is supposed to go. This may take a while, but will get it done without half the contents on the counter.

If you have something powdery you need to put in a new jar, find an envelope and nip the bottom corner - pour your powdery goods in, then tilt toward the nipped corner to pour in small jars.

Buying used funnels is an option, and is how I got my Busy Liz funnel set (an aluminum canning funnel with a screw on bottle funnel). These aren't the greatest though, being light-weight aluminum with rolled edges that have accumulated gunk. For the funnels that will hold up the rest of your cooking and pouring life, look for:

high quality metal ones (aluminum tend to dent and don't react well to acids) - the metal won't take on colors or flavors like plastic

You want cut straight edges, not edges that are rolled over and down and accumulate crud over time.

Riveted rather than soldered handles, if any handles present.

Clean funnels as you would any other dishes. Use an SOS pad on plastic funnels that take on a funky smell or orange tomato tinge to help clean them up (the metal pad scrapes the top layer of plastic smooth, getting rid of the trapped particles causing smell/discoloring.)Photo courtesy of "24oranges.nl", Flikr, (C) Common License, modified from original.

Cookie Scoop/Ice cream Scoop -

Though not essential, a squeezy scoop, as I call them, is a portion control cop and delightful dinner server. For portions, you can scoop and shape meatballs, melon balls, treat balls (think rice crispy bars), chocolate truffles or crab puffs, each to the same size. A scoop of cookie dough from this ice cream scoop makes even-sized cookies, helping to make more servings. A scoop of muffin mix is a perfect sized muffin without the bakeover. Serving food, especially sticky stuff, works lunch-lady style, with you able to scoop, mound, and dispense fast. An aunt uses it to fill up stuffed peppers. It's also handy if you have a lot of squash, pumpkin, cantaloupe or other seedy centered produce to scoop out. And, for its original task, buying a heavy-duty ice-cream scoop for scooping ice cream means no more sad, bent spoons in your flatware drawer.

I believe the old ones with bakelite handles are the best (that is my Hamilton Beach scoop from approx 1960?) but that's because cheap metal and poor design have infiltrated the economy models of today. Different sizes are available, though smaller ones are usually the 'handle' squeeze style, while I prefer the thumb levers. I'm sure the top end models made today will work as hard, or harder, in the kitchen, but I've had my one scoop for a while now. (Keep your eyes open for my post on how to remove a dent from your scoop. My 2-b-mother-in-law dropped it on the tile floor, and the floor won. Still works, though!) Whether buying new or used, look for:

An alloy metal or heavy metal design - aluminum is likely going to dent up fest

Tight fittings between all pieces (nothing feels 'loose' or 'wiggles', if you shake it, it shouldn't rattle.)

Rinse your scoop after use to make sure gunk doesn't dry on the moving parts. Let dry before putting away so no rust starts on the moving parts. Don't drop on tile.

Grater-
A grater isn't much thought about in kitchens, as it is more for people that like spending a little time in their kitchen versus their boil-the-water Ramen brethren. Whether slicing and grating cheese, or vegetables, or making breadcrumbs out of an old loaf of bread, or zesting lemons or ginger, a good grater can speed up some tasks and make others so much healthier. Consider cheese grating. Did you know that, to keep pre-shredded cheese from clumping, they soak it in chemicals on the way to bagging? Grating your own cheese takes just a few minutes, the cheese will taste better, and bulk cheeses are often cheaper than anything you can find pre-shredded. The grater is great for a smaller kitchen, where some tasks can be completed without the need of pulling out another appliance (save energy!) and it is much easier to clean than a food processor or electric chopper.

If you are looking for a cheese grater and would be doing larger amounts of grate work (<-- get it!) I can't help but say look for a big box grater that you can stand up and shred 2 lbs of food into the center. For smaller families or couples, I'd recommend the IKEA brand cheese grater 'bowl' (pictured), with a plastic bowl that has 2 different sized grate lids that sit over it and shred into the bowl, and a lid so you can put extra shredded stuff in the fridge. We have one of these dedicated to whatever block cheese was on sale- I buy (or pull from freezer) bulk cheese every other week, and I have a tupperware next to the cheese shredder for the main cheese block and any scrap 'cheese stumps' that get shredded into other meals.

If you go out looking at graters, consider:

How the edges are secured - stamped metal wrapped around a metal frame often leaves a gap where particles get stuck. Make sure the rolled over edges are tight against any framing pieces.

A solid handle on top, or 'sticky' bottom that will hold in it place

Aim for stainless steel. The old metal graters work great, but are prone to rusting if not washed and dried right away.

Have at least 2 sizes - a 'shred' and a 'zest' - to make one tool do multiple jobs. A slicing side can also come in handy for sandwich slices of cheese, or 'madeline' cuts of harder veggies (though some models just aren't sharp enough to work well.)

Check that the holes come to an edge and aren't just 'stamped' down, so there is a sharp edge to catch the food when grating'

To keep cheese from sticking, I've had some good results with running it under water before I shred. The key to keeping your grater clean is not letting anything dry on it - wash/rinse it right after use. Wash with a sponge in the opposite direction you grate - unless you want sponge bits in your sink. Shake and wipe dry to prevent oxidation.

Containers -

By leaving food in its original box or bag (this goes double for bulk bought items) sometimes it takes on the flavor or smell of the plastic/cardboard it is in. Putting your foods into canisters with tight fitting seals will prevent this, and you should make sure you have a place for opened food goods to be properly stored out of sunlight, as well. Yes, even dried goods have a shelf life, which decreases with the more air, heat, or light it is exposed to.

This doesn't even begin to cover the joys of LEFTOVERS! More packaged for short term, actually eating ALL the leftovers from a meal will instantly save you money and prevent food waste.

You can make your own food canisters for food packaging from other food packaging (this and and some creative labeling ideas here.) I would say buying used is the most affordable way to get big canisters, especially if negotiating at rummage sales or shopping 50% off days. By slowly accumulating them, you will get the jar sizes you want at a few bucks each. I decided I liked the mix up of different jars, but if you just can't help yourself and want to buy matchy matchy ready-to-go canisters, then consider:

Glass containers ensure no reaction to foods, no matter how long things sit in them. The food will go bad, the glass can be washed. Second best is PETE plastics. Plastics of lower grades start to run the same risk as the plastic bag - making your food taste a little, um, plastic-y.

Having a tight fitting lid is important to keep air flow at 0 inside the container.

Check to make sure the material around the lid (the gasket) is flexible (some plastics used around lids are so hard, they won't flex and let tons of air through).

Ensure the seal material is not sticky and doesn't smell strongly (from rubbers and plastics that have been overheated/sat too long.)

Ensure the material isn't cracked or torn anywhere, and properly lines up with jar mouth.

If there is a latching mechanism, see how fast you can open and close it before something goes wrong. I bought some clearance large glass canisters with metal clasp lids for $3 to $5, only to realize that the lightweight metal bends easily and often gets stuck, making closing latches a pain.

I've seen $5.00 a piece for larger metal clasp rubber sealed lid canisters (Anchorware?) at Big Lots, and my sister bought all of her screw top 'cookie jar' style pantry jars on a day-after-Christmas sale at Target (she got 75% off, and just spray painted all the red and green lids to match.) So, figure out what sizes you need, and go forth and collect.

For tupperware-type leftover containers, there is a lot of hype about reusing plastic containers food comes in. Now, pthlalates are a buzz word in the community of health conscious, and I believe reducing the amount of plastic in your home is a big and important step. However, when I know I ate something out of a plastic container that was there for days, maybe weeks already, putting leftovers in the same container for a day or two doesn't get me worked up. Here are some thoughts on plastic leftover containers:

Don't microwave cheap/free plastic containers - or expensive ones at that. Place the leftovers on the plate or bowl you will eat it off, anyway, and then heat it up. This prevents the pthlalates from being pulled into the food during the heating process.

Use things with lids, as things like plastic wrap and films are shown to transfer pthlalates more so than rigid plastics.

Throw out/recycle any containers that show wear, 'thinning' or melty spots, or are scratched up or have slivers of plastic showing.

To keep from 'pack-ratting', select one or two sizes of plastic containers (I collect sour cream/large yogurt containers) with the same 'lid' size - you won't need to the find the matching lid to use any of the plastic cups, just grab a standard lid and store it.

Accumulating the same thing is key for storage, so save the tupperware your deli meat comes in if you get that meat every week. Don't save the one-off cream cheese container you'll never buy again.

Label the leftovers in the fridge - with masking tape, or dry erase marker writing, or whatever works for you. Just date and label it, so you know what to use first.

Make the switch to glass containers as you are able. Because of their weight and the space they take up, glass hasn't made a lot of headway replacing plastics in leftover storage containers. Start off easy, by buying Pyrex nesting bowls with sealing lids, which can stand in as leftover holders. Work up to what glass containers your kitchen can accommodate.

If you are going to buy plastic containers, by two or three large sets of the same kind all at once. Then, loosing lids or throwing out/recycling a few pieces won't matter, as they match up with the others you have. This goes along with the 'accumulate similar' idea.

So, with all that in mind, keep cooking in the kitchen and thinking about what you can do in small ways to help yourself save money, save time, save the planet, and save your health. Next Kitchen post? Butcher's and Baker's and Aspiring Cheesemaker's Tools!

"Keep your food good enough to eat, because eating good food keeps you."

Saturday, January 24, 2015

Buying IN bulk can get you over-stocked on items you can't use up before they go bad. Which sucks. However, buying FROM bulk is easily the most money-saving, space saving, resource saving option available to most American grocery shoppers.

There are multiple reasons to buy foods (and some pet foods/bird seed!) from the bulk section. Number one on the list is: it's cheaper. Other benefits include you get only as much as you need, so it's fresher when you use it. Also, you can try new things without wasting it if you don't like it. And it cuts down on wasteful packaging. Here's why:

First, you are avoiding labels and brands, which means you are avoiding advertising and the companies that pay for it. This lack of advertising is reflected in the price. The stuff in bulk is what it is, you get an ingredients list, maybe a nutritional panel, but you don't get or pay for anyone's name on it.

Secondly, you are saving not just on packaging, but shipping and handling of that item. It is much easier and affordable to put together and ship a single box very full of a single product, rather than a box full of pre-proportioned smaller boxes. By reducing the manufacturer/grower's amount of packaging and handling, you reduce the price. You also reduce the amount of packaging you then throw away once you use the product.

Thirdly, as I said before, you can buy only what you will use in the time it is good. This ensures the freshest ingredients for you, but often is why many stores won't do more items in bulk. Many food companies package their foods for the amount an average family will go through in a set period of time. They charge a premium for the smallest packages, because they have to sell more small packages to move the same amount of product. For shelf stable items like flour, they pack in 1-5lb bags, the 1 lb almost always more per lb than the 5. For grains that go stale, I've found they seem to charge the most per unit for their single-size boxes. When you are buying bulk, you control the exact amount of what you are getting, without the price difference that accompanies branded foods. In order for the grocery store to make money off of their bulk section, this means they have to sell to more people if the product is bought in small quantities to get through their stock before it expires. So, do your favorite store's bulk section a favor, and pass this post along to someone who could benefit from bulk!

How to go bulk:Who sells in bulk:
First, locate stores near you that have more than candy in bulk. In the Mesa, AZ, I am pretty happy between Winco Grocery Store's bulk section and Sprout's bulk and spice section (the spices are located away from the general bulk, so look around the endcaps by other spices.) Start with your local grocery stores you already frequent. If they don't carry much in bulk, start looking for grocers that market themselves with phrases like 'natural foods' or 'supply', and see what they carry.

When I was in Buffalo, NY, I fell in love with the local Lexington Co-op on Elmwood. They had a nice bulk assortment, and a nice priced spices section with some harder-to-find spices. They had the most affordable vanilla beans my vodka could hope for! It was also just a really lively local business I enjoyed supporting. So, also look for a local food co-op near you, as well. Often times, you have to pay a a 'membership' fee, but usually it is a one-time lifetime buy-in, and your money is returned to you should you decide to leave.

If you have a Whole Foods near you, they have a large bulk and often carry even more organic bulk items, but you pay a premium for the multiple choices. More and more grocery chains are starting to carry items in bulks, but not all selection or quality is created equal, so pay attention to how clean the area is kept, how many people are buying from it, and what kind of products they carry. These are clues to how fresh and clean those contents will be.

Process of buying from the bulk section:
1. Take a plastic bag from roll.
2. Open and pour or scoop desired amount of product into bag.

3. Secure bag shut, either by my 'tag-a-bag' method to right, or with a twist tie, or some bags are now 'zipper' style.

4. Find marking device (could be a marker to write on the bag, or a pen to write on a thick twist tie) and write down the PLU number that corresponds with the product you are buying (they make the number very obvious, don't fret.)

5. Start a new bag for each different product type.

6. Take to register, where they weigh bag and enter its number to get how much per unit it is (and of course, then you pay for your food and eat it.)

Some bagging considerations:
Many places won't let you bring in your own containers for the bulk stuff, because they don't have a zero scale option at the tills (they can't tare). Each purchase you make is weighed, and the computer automatically subtracts a gram or so to account for it being in a plastic bag. This isn't great, but it is the easiest and most all-around sanitary way of doing business right now. I did read an interesting post over at FoodInJars, about bringing your own containers. It seems it all depends on the staff, your store's policy, and your willingness to carry stuff. I do like the idea of reusable bulk bags like they show here, you can just wash, but I personally have to look into it more. In the mean time, the bulk and produce bags of most stores are recyclable with plastic shopping bags, or can be used if you have a pet that goes #2 a lot where it shouldn't. Just make sure your store hasn't switched to a 'compostable plastic', which is not recyclable but rather, you guessed it, compostable. Usually they proudly exclaim this on the bag itself, so just keep an eye out.

As for shutting the bags of goodies, I started getting sick of twist-ties everywhere in my house. It seemed a waste, these little strips of tin covered in paper that couldn't be recycled, and we just didn't have enough use for all them. So, I saved up some bread bag tags. Using nail polish remover, I got them all clear of any inks/writing. I hooked these tabs to a keychain with a mini keychain marker I had from some gift from some time period (in other words, I have no idea where it came from). This I attached to my coupon pouch. Now, in the bulk section, I simply pull off a bread tag, tag-a-bag, and write down my bulk number on whatever is easiest to see on the plastic. So far, I have to explain the 'number is written on the bag, not the tag', but no cashiers have gotten upset by my method. And, no more twist ties going to a landfill.

And finally, if you are going to buy in bulk, you will want to start now collecting containers to put your goodies in, because the plastic bags will not keep them fresh for long. Read my post on Budget Pantry Containers, and start collecting bottles and jars now. Oh, and enjoy that first fresh, well-priced bulk buy!

To build up your own pantry storage containers, as long as you use non-reactive containers, made of glass or PETE plastic (PETE shows up by the recycle number) your bulk-purchased goods should stay good for their life span. Start collecting your jars and bottles right now, and have an oil or bottle of Goo-gone and a razor blade/scraper ready to clean off sticker/label residue. Use pretty much any food-grade or essential oil; I use mineral oil because it washes off easy, though it is a petroleum product. Much adhesive gunk will wipe off in contact with the oil, and scraping is usually just needed where some paper is still stuck on. Fingernail polish remover and a q tip will wipe off any inked dates. Painting lid jars is optional. Spray painting is the speediest most effective method, though some people avoid sprays. If that's you, try prime the lids with an oil-based primer, then use acrylic paints, then a sealant to make the paint stay. They do look more 'together' when the lids match.

Here are some container ideas:

Clean up old spaghetti jars, salsa jars, jelly jars - pretty much, if it has a good sized mouth and is made of glass with a metal lid, it will work really well. Some tight-fit plastic lids work fine, just make sure there is a water-tight seal when you wash it out.

Canning jars of every size and shape - check out thrift stores and rummage sales, as canning jars with the smallest chip on the lip can't be used for canning, but will seal up air-tight enough to keep your dry goods safe for their lifetime. You also will need rings and lids, which you may have to purchase separate (approx. $2.50 for 12 rings and 12 lids.)

Clear 2 liter and liter bottles work well for 'powder' and 'small-sized' items that you pour out, but they can't really be dressed up much (A 2-liter bottle always looks like a 2 liter plastic bottle in my experience.)

Wider mouthed 64oz juice or jugs are nice for beans or heavy bulk stuff you may have to lift up. Arizona tea and other bottles have handles built in for you!

For liquid bulk, clean up maple syrup glass bottles, liquor bottles, or Gatorade bottles work nice, as these are easier to clean out than some other skinny mouthed long bottles

Pretzel and 'cheese-puff' giant plastic containers are usually a nice rigid plastic with wide openings, great for things you want to scoop out.

Ask local bars/restaurants if you could have their gallon pickle or olive jars. These I hoard like gold when I score them, because they really are the best size for bulk buys and the mouths are wide, so you can scoop in your entire 1 cup measuring cup without 'tilting'.

1 and 5 gallon food-grade buckets with tight lids (lids usually are for purchase separate, if you find the buckets from a restaurant) store your bulk purchases of bulk stuff. For the 'makes-their-own-bread-everyday' type.

I collect little .5 oz jelly jars for the spices I literally use a tablespoon of a year - because I can buy a tablespoon worth at a time!

Labels:

Here are some methods I've used or seen used to make your own if you are up for a little lettering. If you see 'your post' here as an idea, let me know and I will gladly get a link to your site! I honestly can't recall where I saw some of these ideas 'first', but google "DIY pantry labels", and you'll see multiple people's takes on these ideas.

Paint chips (any stiff paper would work), a sharpie, and electrical tape with the corners cut - try write in a cute serifs font, if you can.

Get a paper punch in a shape that reflects your 'style', vinyl sticker or contact paper, and a sharpie. When punching vinyl, if your punch tries to chew on it, put some stiff magazine pages on either side of the vinyl and punch through.

Paint on the container with chalk paint if it has a flat-ish area for a painted-on label. These labels have the added bonus of being changed as needed. Use masking tape to make the shape, or use a paper punch on a piece of contact paper, then cut out around negative space to make a sticky backed stencil.

Have a label maker? USE IT. (Since you bought it, put it to work.) Sometimes, you can borrow a friend's for a day and just have fun. (I recall an episode of The Simpson's where Bart gets a label maker for his birthday and marks everything his.)

Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Everyone has, at some point, grabbed one of those rotisserie chickens they sell at supermarkets. For $5-6 bucks a bird (mine was $5.79 for a 24 oz cooked bird), these can make a meal without anyone having to watch the oven or need a rotisserie. I fell in love with them because I have no patience for longer-cooking meats if it won't fit in my crock pot. Now, I realize that same 24oz of bird purchased raw could cost me as little as $1.20 (whole chickens go on sale for $0.79/lb), but I have learned to save myself time and use every bit of conveniently cooked bird.

The Price Per Serving Breakdown:
I can make 3 meals out of the bird I buy. With the sale prices of the week, each meal came to between $0.63 - 4.00 per serving, or an average of just under $2.25 per plate. This isn't crazy cheap (mom fed me home-grown suppers for .50/serving or less,) but I think it is still thrifty, considering the meals include lots of fresh vegetables and are still easily made in approx 20-40 minutes. The average cost of a meal per serving in America ranges from $4 to $9.

I toast the previous french loaf bread after cutting into cubes and have makeshift croutons. I mix up salad greens (any greens work, romaine with veggie leaves are my stand by), and I shred a baby carrot for color and cube some leftover chicken.

Blue cheese dressing is one of two dressings open in the fridge, so we go with that (note: too many types of dressing opened at once and they all languish in the fridge. I won't open a new bottle of any flavor until another is almost gone.) The lemon pepper seasoning of the chicken is noticeable, but good.

So, the bok choy I had to look up how to prepare, as I had never personally handled it before (I only bought it because is was on sale for $1/lb.) I cut off and save the bok choy leaves to feed to my lizard. The celery, a few leftover stalks nearing the compost bin, have their leaves already fed to lizard. I want to start using brown rice as it is healthier, but I got 15 lbs of white to use up, first! I don't normally buy crispy chow mien noodles because that aren't very healthy and they often go stale quickly. However, on seeing them in the bulk section, I was able to buy just a handful for each of us. The Lean Cuisine egg rolls were a splurge, but I wasn't up for making my own egg rolls yet, and they are SOOooo good.

Use Up Everything:
Now, after I make those 3 meals, here's what else happens. "And now, the rest of the chicken":

Once the meat is gone I add the bones to my chicken stock scraps in the freezer, where they accumulate until I can make broth. The plastic cases they come in make great seed starters (with a taller see-through top then other leftover containers) and both the plastic case and paperboard carrying handle are recyclable with our curbside program (just thoroughly wash off any grease or dirt, please.) The only thing I have to throw out is the string tying the chicken legs together, as this is usually an unknown plastic cord. That's a pretty economical chicken for being 'ready-to-eat'.

The other foods I try get mileage from, as well:

For the broccoli, I cut up the stem in small pieces so they cook well and aren't still tough, so they get eaten.

When I have a whole uncut loaf of bread, I cut the whole thing into slices and brush all the crumbs into my jar of bread crumbs used for cooking.

For certain types of dressings I will add vinegar/oil/water to the bottle to get a few more pours from it, shaking to get the seasoning from the sides of the bottle.

Some dressing bottles I rinse out to store my own creations if I have time to make them.

I keep greens in a salad spinner in the fridge (one for lizard, one for us) and they keep amazingly well in them.

The bok choy and celery leaves aren't normally eaten or cooked in most recipes, but that is okay because my lizard appreciates the variety.

The celery in a stir fry can be limp and not noticed, as long as there are other 'crisp' veggies there. The onion I had to peel quite a few layers off (it had been hiding in the back and bottom of the basket) and the center was starting to grow, but any bits I didn't use, as well as cut-offs from bok choy, celery, carrot and onion went in the freezer bag for making stock.

Any other food scraps I would ideally compost, though haven't heard back from the MRF yet on my ability to start doing that where I live now.

Cooking More (Energy) Efficiently:
People think green and efficient and they think about gas mileage or appliances that are Energy Star approved. How we use things like appliances is what actually makes them efficient. Here are ways I save energy in my kitchen:

Well, the chicken was cooked in groups in a commercial machine, which I suppose is more efficient than everyone cooking a chicken in their own home unit.

The broccoli I steam, making sure to have a lid on to keep the hot steam in the pot (I actually have seen people 'open top' steam things, I don't know if this is common, though.)

I use the toaster oven to toast small pieces of bread, like croutons, because it is more efficient than firing up the big oven.

The rice I cook 'economy' style, which means I put the rice and the water in the pot, then heat it up with lid on. I open once to stir, and once it is boiling, I turn off the burner and let it cook. I take a peak, and if the rice looks about cooked, I take the lid off and let it steam off any extra moisture. This uses less fuel from my oven to achieve the same thing - cooked rice (though it is sticky rather than 'fluffy', I like sticky better.)

The vegetables I cut small and thin as possible, which will increase how fast they fully cook, and shorten the time they need to be on the stove top.

I wash dishes by hand if my arthritis will let me, instead of running the dishwasher.

I think about and grab all the ingredients from the fridge, so I'm not constantly opening and shutting the door, letting out the cold air. I try put them all back at once, too.

I politely request of my S.O. to not open the fridge and stare into it with the door wide open while deciding what to drink. (At least, I think I'm polite about it. Judging by how fast he runs off, maybe I sound more irritated than I think.)

I don't microwave much, but for smaller servings, it is more efficient than heating up the whole oven.

And there you have it! As wasteless, efficient, convenient and affordable as I can make my dinners right now. The Efficient Cook may become a post series if there is any interest in it, so please let me know if you enjoyed this article, or if you'd have preferred a more typical recipe layout.

I recently attended an Extreme Couponing Class, and I learned a lot of tidbits that made me go 'huh'. Here's a sampling:

There are two ways to pronounce coupon, and I heard both today. I myself am in the, "It's a Q-pon," group. Per dictionary.com,

"Coupon, pronounced [koo-pon], is related to "cope" and "coup," of French origin. It has developed an American pronunciation variant, [kyoo-pon] with an unhistorical y-sound not justified by the spelling. This pronunciation is used by educated speakers and is well-established as perfectly standard, although it is sometimes criticized."

Ever bought a Sunday paper on Monday? Well, if you didn't get coupons in it, they probably weren't stolen. Only so many flyers are provided to each publishing site, usually their subscription number plus some, but there are more papers than that printed. So, only the first, say, 100,000 papers will actually have the 'Sunday coupons', and the rest of the papers are pushed out without them. Turns out I was cursing an imaginary thief all this time!

I found it fascinating to hear that obtaining coupons via anything but with your newspaper is illegal. Having heard of crazy coupon folk buying up multiples of coupon flyers online, I never looked at the fine print on a coupon. Doing a little research at home, I found there is quite the darkside in the couponing world, from fraud to theft to more. Per the CIC (Couponing Information Center):

"The sale or transfer of coupons is a violation of virtually all manufacturers’ coupon redemption policies. These policies are generally printed on the coupons or are available from the manufacturer upon request. Any sale or transfer voids the coupon."

While I could not locate any text that legally defined what "transfer" included, I wonder - could handing your neighbor a coupon you know they'd use constitute fraud? I suppose it's all about intent -accumulating one coupon is advertising at work, while accumulating ten is intent to profit, which is exactly what extreme couponers intend to do and the exact opposite of what manufacturer's intend to happen with the coupons. Manufacturers expect only about 6% of the coupons they put out to be redeemed, so extreme couponers have them on guard. I recommend reading Jill Cataldo's post "Couponing Ethics: Is it wrong to buy and sell coupons?" for more information.

It was nice to hear the Extreme Couponing Class presenter personally donates her accumulated free/pennies worth of products that she couldn't use up in due time. She gives them to the food shelf or shelters where they are so needed. This quiets my concerns of extreme couponers 'hoarding' items and letting them go to waste.

What do extreme couponers do with all those newspapers the coupons come in? It seems wasteful, having multiple copies of the same newspaper in one house, but that is the only method available to prevent coupon fraud. The Extreme Couponing Class presenter stated some excellent ideas on how to donate the papers where they can be used. School projects sometimes require multiple copies of the Sunday paper but need them on Monday, so copies could go there. Animal shelters often line cages with newspapers (and you can imagine do so often) and take donations of papers. I was glad to hear some of the papers find second lives. And, who knows? Just like I plan to switch all my magazines to online-subscriptions this year to make up for my paper-crafting demand, maybe extreme couponers will consider making similar changes to off-set the paper consumption of receiving physical newspapers.

I actually remember when I was first introduced to coupons. I was 16, and my friend Sara and I were at the laundromat. There was a box full of coupon inserts that people could peruse while waiting for their whites. I'd never really 'seen' a coupon until then, because growing up my mother bought nothing name brand. Sara explained the seemingly simple process of how you give the cashier a coupon that matches up with the item you buy, and they take some money off your bill. Sara told me of her aunt, who used tons of coupons and saved tons of money. I took a coupon for Wrigley's gum from that box, in much the same way one buys a lottery ticket after hearing about a friend of a friend winning.

I shortly lost the coupon. I guess after that I figured extreme couponing was some fabled activity, and I hadn't consider it much since.

Until today, that is, when I went to an Extreme Couponing Class held by Arizona Republic (our major area newspaper.) After the demonstration ended, I left realizing extreme couponing isn't the mystical 'lottery game' it used to be. The demonstrator presented a unified method of how to locate the sales at stores and match them to coupons, how to collect and organize coupons, and how to stock up on items to last until the next sale cycle. She also shared with us how she personally shops, and gave tips and information that would allow anyone to do the same.

Finally, anyone could take on the intricate and obfuscated world of coupons and come out on top!

Part of this magic is in the promoted website, azsmartbuys.com. AZsmartbuys.com, the Arizona area site from Grocerysmarts.com, does all the homework for you, providing sales from area stores (think those with their own flyers) and coupon match ups with those sales, all with an excel table format with 'discount' ratings, list making and print options. This site is like talking to 8 great couponing friends, each with their favorite store to shop at, and being given the inside scoop on the best deals from each of them every week. By unifying all the information into one site, it takes almost no time to locate super sales.

The organization method offered during the class was simple. The website refers to coupons by which of the 3 coupon flyers they are in and the week they were sent out. By using a simple 3 folder system, one for each flyer type, all you do is stash the coupons. When the website says "use this coupon", you search just that flyer and clip away!

The aspect of stocking up for the sale cycles sounded like the hardest part, as space in a house is usually at a premium. However, it will save you money. By couponing on sales and buying enough to get you to the next sale, you save the most money per product. In explaining the concept to my S.O., I came up with this example:

Let's say at the start of the year you buy your favorite brand of peanut butter on sale with a coupon for just $0.25 a jar. You now have payed only $0.25 per jar for your favorite peanut butter! But then you eat it. If you only bought one, you now have to go to the store and buy more of your favorite peanut butter, but at full price, about $2.00. Well, $0.25+$2.00= $2.25 / 2 jars = $1.13 per jar. Your cost per jar just jumped by four! Now I, the non-couponer, go to the store knowing I can't store 3 months of peanut butter (though in truth, I would MAKE room for peanut butter) and I don't have any coupons. I buy two of the $1.25 jars of store-brand peanut butter, and average $1.25 per jar for the same number of jars. To summarize, this is what we pay:

So, while extreme couponing may not be for everyone, the math supports that if and when you get it working, you can have a lot of fun with extra money, surrounded by your super-affordable goodies. The only things you need are a source of coupons, storage space for stocking up on goods, and organization skills to keep track of your purchases (to make sure food doesn't go to waste). I won't be playing this game myself right now, as I cannot physically store the goods that make extreme couponing extreme, but I found the event entertaining and informational, and came away with some great ideas.

If your family uses packaged foods and goods, you should check this out. If your family uses a lot of name-brand and packaged foods and goods, you have to check this out. It will be worth your time. Free seminars are being regularly scheduled in the AZ area. Just go to AZsmartbuys.com, and click on your area to see if there are any upcoming events near you! The classes are free to you, and there are dozens of tips and tricks I learned that will aid even my not-so-extreme shopping. If you decide to jump into the Extreme Couponing, the AZ Republic is able to offer you, at these classes only, a special multi-paper subscription to get the multiple coupons.

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

So, between January cloudy skies and being diagnosed with arthritis, I decided I had to do something to get my groove back. I've experienced a lot of different types of exercise in my life, and in light of everything going on in my life, I decided to get back into yoga.

Why yoga? First of all, yoga has been practiced by a variety of people over thousands of years. No one has died from too much yoga, to my knowledge. I believe it helped me when I had done it before, and in general: if people keep doing yoga, yoga obviously does something for people.

Secondly, I know for a fact that aches and pains lessen with yoga (and most mild exercises, in general). Regular exercise is shown to help reverse joint stiffness, as well as build up muscle and promote normal joint movement. This means you become stronger and don't suffer fatigue as fast, which makes for more active and productive days.

Thirdly, yoga is cheap. Don't think so? Then you've read too much yoga-hype and haven't looked around your house or your community. Any expense from yoga is in one of three areas - classes/retreats/dues and educational material, clothing, or gear, and every one of those can be done for free or close to if you try hard enough.

Classes CAN get up to $20-30 a pop, but free or affordable community yoga classes are often also available. Check with your local yoga schools/gyms, libraries, or community centers. I started doing yoga because a class was offered for free by my work. Yours doesn't do that? I highly recommend you recommend something similar to your boss, as a morning yoga really does improve the rest of your day's productivity. Usually you can find at least a 'free first class' with no obligation for a Yoga class series, which helps you figure out some basics. If you have friends also interested in yoga, pool together a few bucks to afford an instructor to teach the group in someone's basement. Otherwise, you can get online guides, videos and tutorials from the internet for nothing. Go to your local library and check out their yoga books and DVD's. There are quite a few free apps for phones, too, with poses and insight. You will more than likely be able to make a routine for yourself and get to try new things.

*Update: Check out these free yoga lesson videos / sites compiled by freebies.about.com. I like how some of them are super-sortable - by time, types, and experience level.

And how does one go on a yoga retreat for nothing, you ask? Easy. First, clean your house. Declutter at least the area you yoga in. The less stuff in the area, the more restful your eyes are. For music in the background of your sessions, go to a music site like Grooveshark.com, and look for "yoga", "relaxation", "meditation", or "nature music". Or, for some fresh takes on meditation music, look up artists like DJ Drez, Thievery Corporation, Lykke Li, or Desert Dwellers. Just play music from your phone (placed in a glass bowl if you need it to be louder) or exercise near the computer. Want some appealing scents? Skip incense and candles (too smoky) and consider getting crafty by making aroma goodies like potpourri, Homemade Gel Air Freshners, or scentsy-styled heated aromas. Keep the lighting low and make it uplighting if you can. Want a really cool lighting effect Hang a white sheet on the wall so it reaches the floor, and stick a lamp behind it so the light goes up the wall and is diffused with the sheet. Put images of nature or natural things on the walls to look at while you breath, as it has been shown even looking at a picture of nature creates a sense of calm in humans. Clip these from outdoor magazines, or look for posters at the thrift shop. If you have any potted plants, move then to where you yoga. Take any mirrors you can move and lean them against the walls / hang them in the area.

The second cost, workout clothing, should NOT set you back $50 for a pair of pants. I did my yoga in a pair of stretchy thin cotton pajama bottoms that cost my $0.80 at the thrift store - I went on Dollar Clothing Tag Day and had a 20% coupon, naturally. I do recommend you find your pants in black (you are working out, after all, and should sweat a bit.) Tank tops or sports bras are fine for covering your torso, so long as you can stretch out in it and not flash anybody. Just make sure your clothing isn't too baggy, so (if in class or if looking in mirror) your actual body outline can be seen, to make sure you have proper alignment.

And the third cost, equipment, is the most over-inflated of them all. You don't need a $30 starter kit with mats, blocks, and straps. All you NEED for yoga is some comfortable open floor space. Seriously. All the yoga-related “stuff” you can get helps promote comfort and variety while exercising, but aren't required for most basic yoga. If you really want to have all the stuff to perform all the moves, it is possible to make things work in place of the store bought item, like using a towel instead of a mat, or a bathrobe belt instead of yoga belt. Assuming you have an average household of stuff, I realized you could make-shift most yoga equipment for a grand total of $0.33. If you have a tennis ball floating around already, you could make-shift it all for free. Don't believe me? Check out my post on it here.

So, since I can't seem to sleep past 5am lately, I'm going to start my own Frugal Yoga style, and save myself from stiffness and stress. I'll post patterns, positions, and success rates as I do this. It's all about motivation, really.

Here are some other tips for anyone else wanting to get into yoga but not sure where to start:

Take one class before committing to any series of classes - usually the first one is the 'free' hook, and will let you know if you like it.

Take a friend or spouse with you if possible – exercising with a partner motivates you to keep up with it.

Call ahead before a first class to see if you need to bring anything - mat, belts, etc.

Make sure to bring a water bottle.

You will probably feel relaxed but energized afterword - try plan the time of yoga to make use of that feeling.

If you do yoga at home, set it for when you aren't likely to be distracted by anyone or anything making noise/needing your attention.

If you are arthritic or have some difficulty moving:

Consider gentle or restorative forms of yoga like Iyengar, rather than more active Bikram, Astanga, or power yoga.

Avoid poses that involve balancing on one foot, like the tree pose, or bending the knee more than 90 degrees, like the frog pose. Modify these poses to fit your flexibility limitations.

Do 60 percent of what you feel capable of doing at first, and then build up the degree of stretching or speed.