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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

(Edit 2/12/11 - I do know that the English name for this pokemon is Oshawott, but at the time the doll was made, they had not published any of the starters' names in English. I can't change the title because that's also part of the URL, so the page has to stay as is :) - Linda)

Ok, this one has been fun. Most of you Pokemon fans are very familiar with the new games being released sometime next year called Pokemon Black and Pokemon White. About a month ago or so, the starters for those games were 'leaked' (although I'm pretty sure they intended to do that LOL). This one is Mijumaru (it doesn't have an English name yet), he's a Sea Otter Pokemon (water type obviously). If you'd like some more information about him and the other starters for Pokemon Black/White, you can go to Serebii.com.

I had a hard time finding pictures of the 'back' of this pokemon, so this is my best 'guesstimate' until such time as we get better/more pictures released, as we get closer to the game release. If I need to make any really serious changes to the pattern ... I will. But for now, here it is :D

As always, if you have any trouble with the pattern, or find any errors, just note me here and I'll get to it asap :D

EDIT: Sorry that the colors aren't right on here, They looked right on the computer, until I uploaded them. I have no idea what happened. I'll see if I can get other pictures with the colors right, but you will see the correct colors if you visit the website noted above. :D

Mijumaru

MATERIALS:

WW Yarn in white, light turquoise, dark blue, and scrap amounts of a light coral and a light brown

G Hook

Fiberfill

Small felt scraps in white and black

Small amount of black embroidery thread and suitable needle

Yarn Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn’t terribly important, as long as your hook, yarn and individual tension result in an even, fairly tight stitch that will prevent the fiberfill from showing through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

HEAD:

Using white

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56)

Rnd 8-15: sc in each sc around (56)

Rnd 16: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)

Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

Rnd 18: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)

Rnd 19: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 20: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)

F/O. Stuff head firmly while shaping. Don not close the neck opening.

BODY:

Using light turquoise

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7-18: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 19: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (40)

Rnd 21: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)

Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

F/O and stuff firmly while shaping. Do not close neck opening. Pin head to body at neck opening.

EARS:

Using dark blue:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O weave in end. Stuff lightly.

NOSE:

Using light brown

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 hdc in each of last 2 sc. (12)

F/O Shape with fingers and stuff lightly.

ARMS:

using white:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)

Rnd 5-10: sc in each sc around (10)

Stuff moderately. Flatten end and sc through all layers across (5)

F/O and weave in end.

FEET:

Using Dark Blue

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3-7: sc in each sc around (12)

Flatten and sc through all layers (6)

F/O weave in ends.

TAIL:

Using dark blue

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4-14: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 15: Flatten, sc through all layers across (9)

COLLAR:

Using light turquoise

Ch 30, 5 dc in second ch from hook, * skip one ch, sc in next ch, skip one ch, 5 dc in next ch*, repeat from * to *, end with 5 dc in last ch.

SHELL DECORATION:

Using light coral

R1: Ch 2, 1 sc in second ch from hook , turn (1)

R2: 4 sc in sc, turn (4)

R3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc, (6)

R4-7: sc in each sc across (6)

R8: dec over 2 sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4)

R9: Insert hook and draw loop through first stitch, insert hook in second stitch, draw up loop, insert hook in third stitch, draw up a loop, insert hook in last stitch, draw up a loop, YO and draw through all loops on hook, (1)

R10: 3 slip stitches along edge, ch 3, 2 dc in same place as last slip stitch, 2 dc in next space, dc in next space, ch3 and slip stitch in same space as last dc. 3 slip stitches to next ‘side’ F/O and weave in ends. Shape shell with fingers.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend that you first pin all parts together before sewing, to ensure that you are happy with all the parts and their placements before making it permanent.

Sew head to body at neck opening. Collar is sewn just below the seam of head and neck, with a slight ‘gap’ in the front as shown. Make sure collar faces ‘up’ as shown.

Sew arms to body as shown. Feet are sewn with the round end sewn to the underside of the body.

Tail is sewn to body at the bottom of the back, round end is ‘out’ and flat end is sewn to edge of underside of body.

Ears are sewn to head as shown. Nose is centered on face as shown.

Cut paper models of eyes and pin to face, when satisfied with the paper ‘templates’ of the eye shape, use that as a template to cut the eyes from black felt. Sew or glue securely to face as shown. Glue or sew small circles of white to eyes for catchlights as shown.

Mouth and ‘freckles’ are added with embroidery thread.

Sew shell to front of body between arms, add separation lines if desired.

Mijumaru and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (June 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Sounds as if perhaps you are crocheting a little too tightly, and also you probably need to use more stuffing.

When stuffing dolls, you should stuff them firmly (unless otherwise indicated in the pattern) and shape the piece as you stuff it. Most bags of stuffing material will tell you, you always end up using more stuffing than you think, so keep extra on hand. :D

wow, i can't believe you did this one already. i was secretly hoping you would make him because out of all the new pokemon they've released, this one if definitely my favorite. he's just so cute. i can't wait to make this :D

once again, thank you so much for sharing these patterns; it's really very generous of you.

My sister and I totally love your patterns, thanks so much for sharing these. =) I was wondering if you take requests from anyone or just close friends..You see, I've just really gotten into crocheting, and I don't have money to get gifts for all my friends every Christmas/birthday/etc. So I decided this year, "Hey, why not crochet them all something?" The thing is, I'm practically like a guy when it comes to trying to figure out what to give--I have no clue. So I'm just sticking to whatever each friend reaally loves.Anyways, to the point. Haha.I have a friend who's a total poke'nerd like I am. But he's chosen the oddest (I think, anyway) Poke'mon to really love, which is Pelipper. He totally loves Pelipper, and he said he really wants a shiny. So I figured I'd crochet him a shiny Pelipper for Christmas. The problem is, I'm a total beginner and have no clue how to make my own patterns, much less even have the experience to try so early. And I can't find any Pelipper crochet patterns anywhere.Basically, I was wondering, could you make a Pelipper pattern and share it? It's okay if you can't. It's just a matter of finding something else to make my friend. x3 I was just hoping.

Hello and happy holidays! I love your patterns! I was particularly interested in this one. I decided this year I would make my sisters who are huge Pokemon fans, little stuffed animals of the characters. My question is regarding the shell. Would you be able to help me out. I can't seem to get the hang of how to do it. It's getting close to Christmas and I've put the plushy together in it's entirety minus the shell on his tummy of course. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Happy holidays!

the english name for this is oshawott. if you need the english names for the starter pokemon from unova (black and white) just go to bulbapedia, it's like a wikipedia for pokemon fans, named after the pokemon bulbasaur ;3

I am also having trouble with the shell. I thought I had it but now that it is done it looks more like a tulip then a shell.

First to make sure I'm not totally off, I assume that R1, R2, etc. is Row 1, Row 2, etc. If that is the case, I am just lost at R10. What part of the shell does R1-R9 make? Is it the base of the shell and then the flare is built on top or is it the center with bumps formed around it?

Basically, Rnd 9 is the 'top' of the shell, the slip stitches are made along the 'side' of the shells (row 'ends') to get you to the bottom to start the 'fluke' (or the flare). Then you will chain 3 to bring the yarn up to working height, and make the DC's as described. The second chain 3 will take you straight back down to the body of the shell where you slip stitch on the body of the shell to anchor the fluke (flare) and a few more slip stitches around back to the top to 'finish' it.

As with many small decorative elements like this, you'll likely need to shape it with your fingers once you finish... and it should hold it's shape until you sew it in place. :D

your work is soooo perfect!i was wondering if you could make minccino? she is a pokemon(a new one from gen. 5) and i love her and so does my sister. can you make one?they are really easy and i would do it mysself but when i tried i couldn't get the ears right.:( is it ok if i use this pattern to try to make minccino?

I'm completely amazed at some of the rude sounding comments on here! Thank you for this semi challenging but excellently written pattern which you wrote out for free so much! I'm sure it took some time to figure out and write for us,which you totally did not have to do! Mine turned out great,and is going in my sons Easter basket,he'll love it! Thanks again :) looking forward to experimenting with your other patterns,hoping to fill my house with cute little pokemon! :D

HELP!! first, thank you so much for the pattern!! So im done with my oshawott, but either I made the head too small or the body too big. Any guess at what I might have done wrong and how I might fix it? Thanks :3

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