Description

With all the breakfast-sounding names associated with Rumbling Bald (Hickory Nut Gorge, Cereal Buttress, Frosted Flake), you might think the place was a theme park dreamed up by General Mills. In fact, Rumbling Bald is an excellent winter climbing destination in North Carolina, featuring a mix of granite/gneiss crack and friction climbs, trad and sport styles.

The history of climbing here is a little hazy, but the first ascents were apparently done in the early 1970s in whats now known as the Flakeview Area. In the mid-70s, route development began at the Cereal Buttress, with first ascents like Shredded Wheat being made by Jeep Gaskin. Other RB pioneers include Grover Cable, Don Hunley and Sean and Shane Cobourn. The 80s were a time of big growth at areas like Hanging Chain Wall; the 5.12b route of the same name was at one time the hardest line in North Carolina.

In the 90s, Rumbling Bald was closed for several years due to access issues with neighboring landowners. In the late 90s, however, the crag was reopened, with bouldering gaining a predominant popularity among climbers. Most recently, Sean Cobourn and partners have been busy exploring and establishing new routes on Rumbling Bald's north face. At present, land purchases by the Carolina Climbers Coalition, combined with state plans for a Hickory Nut Gorge State Park, make the outlook excellent for continued access.

Camping is not allowed at Rumbling Bald, but there are private campgrounds nearby in the Chimney Rock area. The town also hosts B&Bs and motels for those not wanting to camp, along with good places to eat along the scenic Broad River. And if you get bored with climbing, you can join the tourists across the river at Chimney Rock Park (there is actually climbing in this state-owned park, but only if you hire an authorized guide service).

Getting There

Rumbling Bald is located just outside the town of Chimney Rock. From points west (Asheville, etc.), pick up US 74A and go east to where 74A combines with US 64 and SR 9 near Bat Cave. From points east (Charlotte), exit I-85 south of Charlotte for Kings Mountain and US 74; follow 74 west to Forest City and veer off on US 74A west to Bat Cave.

From Bat Cave, follow the signs for Chimney Rock Park and pass the park entrance as you go through the town of Chimney Rock. Not quite a half mile past the park, turn left on Boys Camp Road (SR 1305). Follow this for about a mile and a half to a dirt access road on the left; take the dirt road to one of two parking areas for Rumbling Bald.

Stand start with two great holds on either side of a block. Make a huge move up and slightly right to a decent two finger + thumb pinch. After you secure the pinch, a couple of easier movements bring you to a tough move reaching for the jugs above off smeary, nothing feet....[more]Browse More Classics in NC

Surreal Wall and the above area caught fire today somehow. Very sad. It will likely be closed tomorrow. It will be interesting to see how the wall we be scarred after it's put out. Best of luck to the fire crew and their efforts! Remember: Only you can prevent forest fires!

At time of writing, the Party Rock fire has grown to over 6,000 acres encompassing all of Rumbling Bald and forcing evacuations in the surrounding communities. The fire will likely continue to burn until we receive significant rain, which could be January or later. In other words, don't count on climbing this season at the Bald. Up to date information is available at inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/5092...

"Although the attraction side of the park has reopened, the backcountry areas remain closed. This inlcudes the bouldering and roped climbing at Rumbling Bald proper and the CCC boulders adjacent to the park. Please respect the closure and do not try to climb at the Bald until the area reopens. We are in contact with the park and working on getting them any help they might need and trying to move towards reopening the climbing, but it's going to take time."

The state park asks that you "Please note that hazardous effects from the wildfire are present in the area and may include dislodged, loose rocks; tree bases weakened by the fire; fallen trees hung up in other trees; and deep holes from burned out stumps. Other hazards may exist in the area as well. Please be aware of your surroundings when you visit Rumbling Bald."

it should be noted in regards to Dan's comment above, that "improved" means limited. The state (as far as i'm aware) stepped in to pave the road, but in doing so also put in posts which significantly limit the size of the parking area, and put in a gate barring access to the lower parking lot.

carpooling efforts should be stepped up if at all possible when visiting

Actually, there are more parking spaces than the old dirt lot, but there are exponential amounts of people now that it seems "more" accesible. If you want to guarantee your climbing access on the weekends, get there early (before 9:30) or else plan on going somewhere else. I usually go during the week and dont have any problems with parking, even on Fridays. Make sure not to park on the side of Boys Camp road or anywhere not allowed in the parking lot to ensure we dont have issues with the state park. Check out carolinaclimbers.org for up to date info on the Bald.

Russell, the park definitely does not want people on the premises after the gate has been locked. Those who do so may be jeopardizing future access for others. Also, it should be noted that the Division of Natural Resources is keeping a chary eye on boulderers in particular as a user group that they consider to be 'high impact'

There is no free camping around the Bald...and please don't jeopardize access by camping at the Bald itself. If I were you, I'd climb somewhere else until the beginning of winter...Rumbling gets super hot in May and the flies and poison ivy get seriously bad in the boulders and on the cliff (flies not ivy). Head to the Highcountry, near Linville Gorge, during the hot months for a better NC hot weather climbing trip.

Permits are now required for climbing and bouldering. From ncparks.gov: "A new climbing policy at the Rumbling Bald Access has been put into place. All climbers must fill out a free climbing permit before rock climbing or bouldering. Permits are available at the parking lot kiosk. Organized groups of climbers must register at least two weeks in advance by submitting a Special Activity Permit application to the park superintendent."

The bouldering guidebook is being finished up right now and should be in print around the beginning of spring, from what I've heard. You can always message Dan Brayack either on here or on Facebook and he'll get back to you with a more definite answer. The climbing guidebook has been out for a while now and is available from Ground Up Publishing at grounduppublishing.com/

Hey all, just had 7 omega pacific quickdraws with blue and white webbing stolen from the base of fruit loops while we were on the second pitch. Watch your gear! Message me if y'all have any pertinent information.