In effect for 2016! Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure is in place at the center of the wall starting April 1 to September 30. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website fs.usda.gov/eldorado. If you require addition information contact the Eldorado National Forest at 530-622-5061.

Here's a map from 2009, but the same route closures generally apply every year (true through 2016 according to the latest order).

2009 Closure Map

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

An easy 5.7 climb with the crux coming early in the first pitch at the first bulge. The entire first pitch is easily and well protected. While it probably can be done gracefully, most first timers on this route flop over this bulge. A second bulge comes shortly after the first. For the second bulge transition onto the small ledge to the left and climb around it. The rest of the first pitch is an easy 5.6 climb to a large ledge at the end of the first pitch. There is a walk off the to left down and across exposed low angle slabs at this point if you choose to do so.

The second pitch is belayed from this ledge, but there are not a lot of decent cracks for protection. The second pitch is relatively easy, though the exposure on the first move and some run out add excitement. Climb up the corner/arête on the far right side of the ledge past a protection bolt. Stay slightly to the left as you ascend or you will find yourself off route and into harder climbing. The second pitch ends at a two bolt anchor.

Pitch three is basically a scramble to the top. Its not very exciting, but must be done if you want to reach the top. Walk off to the left.

Location

The eastern most climb on the East Wall, look for the light colored patch of rock about one half of the way up the first pitch. (see photo)

Protection

Small to medium cams and nuts. 2 Bolt anchor at the end of second pitch

When you get to the first ledge, there is a good crack for setting up a belay right underneath the start of the next pitch. You can find it by looking for the bolt. Otherwise, there are some pretty marginal blocks to set up on.

Making it to the first bolt on the second pitch is definitely scary, but in all actuality not that hard - there are tons of great hands and feet.

During P2, you'll reach a big, comfy ledge. This is where I expected the bolts to be, but they're actually at least 40 feet higher and to the right. There are actually 3 bolts at the end of P2 - one old 1/4 incher and two newer bolts. I clipped all three because the hangers on newer bolts were loose, though the bolts themselves seemed bomber.

I don't want to be contrary to the person who listed the route, but if you feel the first pitch is the crux and the route is 5.7 I think you are maybe off route or something. The first pitch is a cruise. The moves around the bolt on P2 are the crux and go as a bouldery 5.6, which means hard for 5.6. Pretty good, and easiest route on the east face.

The guidebook mentions not leaving your pack on the ground or else risk having a squirrel chew through your bag. Heed this warning even if you don't have food in your bag. Don't learn the hard way like we did!

I really like this climb. I am new to leading trad and found this route easy to set and also very interesting. Also, used almost my whole rack in the first 100 feet of the first pitch. Good thing the top part of the pitch is easy.

I started the second pitch left of the bolt to not be exposed over the large corner and so your belayer can spot you. If you start out right on larger dikes a fall here onto your belayer would not have a good outcome.

I don't see the need for the bolted anchor (retro?) on pitch 2, just keep climbing and belay when the rope runs out.