I like that photo too, if you look closely you can see the "alignment" of the head is off, this is because i am not using the RB bolts and not having the "centering plugs" or what you guys call them on.
Trying to get the timing components sorted now, then maybe i can go ahead with the fun part!

Hello Im new here and I keep searching for info into building a 2liter CA for quad injection for my datsun 1000 coupe.

Searching through the net there is info not featured completely in all the build ups together in one place therefore making it difficult to confidently build a CA20DE

Ive acquired a CD20 diesel crank for its full counterweights and wondering if Im stuck with trying to source CD20 conrods or could I use something else?

Ideally Id like a ca18det bottom end with the cd20 crank with longer 136mm conrods and 25mm comp height kawasaki high comp pistons I have laying around that will give me 1.545 rod stroke ratio but finding off the shelve 136mm rods is an issue.

The other options is to use a ca20e block as we cant source the cd20 here and run long rods and 85mm pistons but will have to drill and tap for larger head bolts and confused as to which pump I can use considering the cd20 is Heavy Duty version of a CA20 or a longer version of the CA18det but with bigger head studs?

Also can anyone give clear info on which off the shelve Belt to use? (some say daihatsu Charade GTti other Porsche, then Toyota then Honda its all too unclear)

We shall see when I test fit the crank in a ca20e block but have a feeling it might at worst just need some slight block clearance if any at all. The CD20 block is ideal though so beefy and well designed. There is supposely 5 or 6 all alloy prototypes from the cd20 that Nissan where playing with before they went to the sr20de due to the the noise of the cd20 block was like 3 decibels higher!

Please LMK if it will spin in the CA20 crank. I put my CD20 crank in a CA20 block and it wouldn't work. If yours works, then I wasn't sold a CA20 block (it was a bare block, so I didn't have much reference, and I didn't have a CA18 block to compare it to) and I need to beat someones head in, LOL!!!

will do! I have also a ca16de block which is the same as the ca18de but smaller bore.
Will do it by the end of next week when I get back to my workshop.
The ca20 block is stronger than most peeps think it has quite a lot of meat round the bores for bigger bores yet nothing beats the CD20 what a work of art.

I really look forward to the CD21DET tommey is building. I hope he goes 92mm stroke as thats what that wildcat quirky monster used in speedway and made 260hp at 7000rpm on methanol with an antiquted 2 valve jag hemi head.

Im going 92 mm, i was really undecided about that for a while.
I see the Honda guys rev 9000 rpm with 84x92 without turbo`s.
Im running a PT6466 .82 and e85 and i would like to rev it as far as i need to make the most out of the turbo.

This project is still going on, i am just concentrating on getting my car and supporting mods around the engine finished.
Damn Norway and its salted roads!

very nice! I personally love to do the same using a T5 or T56 with close ratio gearset.
Just in case you missed it, seems dodge SRT late conrods have 53mm BE bore and thicker width BE and 151mm c-c might be a goer in H beams.

I'm running a Liquid to Air intercooler. My intercooler sits between the radiator and the engine. With the electric fans it puts it far enough back there wasn't room for the stock crank pulley. Hence the race balancer. I'm working on the EHPS now. I do have enough room for one pulley though and was contemplating trying to make a serpentine setup to run the A/C and P/S, but I would have had to built a custom brackets for the pumps and so I decided to run a the race balancer, EHPS, and then have one pulley made for the A/C and make a bracket for the A/C.

I ask because I noticed that my Mazdaspeed Protege has a trigger wheel setup the other day when I was replacing the timing belt. I was really surprised at how thin the trigger wheel was. I've never seen a trigger wheel that thin before, but if you're standalone can handle the signal, it could easily fit behind the stock pulley. IDK if it's a special pickup or not, but it made me wonder.

float_6969 wrote:I ask because I noticed that my Mazdaspeed Protege has a trigger wheel setup the other day when I was replacing the timing belt. I was really surprised at how thin the trigger wheel was. I've never seen a trigger wheel that thin before, but if you're standalone can handle the signal, it could easily fit behind the stock pulley. IDK if it's a special pickup or not, but it made me wonder.

lol you'll be surprised how most modern engines are that way now... they just work... hall effect FTW

the mazda BP has the trigger wheel sandwiched between its two piece crank pulley... it works very well, until some tool decided that they have to disassemble the crank pulley to remove it and forgets whcih way the trigger wheel goes on... motor runs poorly (very lean, shoots blue flames out the exhaust manifold) afterwards

Not much progress yet, still working on my chassis.
I have decided on rods at least, 150mm 4g63 rods with the 22mm wristpins.
Another nice feature is that the 4g63 engine uses 21mm wide bearings where the CA "only" has 19mm wide bearings.
On a 30mm compression height piston (stock ca) i could have had little over 151mm long rods but i will compensate with the pistons.

The CD journals are bigger, but i will grind them down to CA/4g63 measurements anyway.
The Tilton set me back about $600, its the 2 plate "rally" type with the thick discs.
I like this clutch better than the japanese clutches because its much cheaper and very streetable, unlike the ORC ect.
It will also hold 1200nm.

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