On the face of it, coleslaw isn’t a dish that inspires a great deal of excitement, particularly when it’s competing with deep-fried poultry and fat, quivering slices of pie. And really, there’s nothing showy about the coleslaw at Pies ‘n’ Thighs — no exotic cabbages, no unexpected root vegetables, no aggrandizing vinegars.

But that’s what makes it so memorable: It’s plain coleslaw, shredded green cabbage, and carrots in a mayo-based dressing, all but identical to the kind you’d find at a Waffle House or a barbecue joint in Alabama. And it’s perfect, thanks to the crunch of the vegetables, the faint sweetness of the dressing, and the peppery heat that loiters in your throat after each bite. It’s coleslaw that doesn’t distract from whatever main dish it accompanies, but holds its own with relaxed aplomb.