Thomas Leggett of The Roosevelt

Jerry Thomas, Ada Coleman, and Victor Bergeron – if you recognize the names and know what it is that these folks have in common, then you should be writing this feature rather than reading it.

The three are among the most influential bartenders in modern history, at least according to the folks at Liquor.com.

Back in the mid-to-late 1800s, Thomas plied his trade at bars across the nation. He also wrote the first cocktail book ever published, The Bon Vivant Companion.

And lest you think female bartenders are of fairly recent origin, meet Ada Coleman, who was known as “Coley” at the American Bar in London’s Savoy Hotel, where she worked from the end of the 19th century into the early 20th century.

Victor Bergeron, of more recent vintage, is a name with which you may be more familiar, especially if you know that his nickname was “Trader Vic.” Bergeron claims to have invented the Mai Tai, although his contemporary and rival, Ernst Gantt, disputed that claim. Gantt was also better known by his nickname, “Don the Beachcomber.” Their Mai Tai controversy would make for a great tale over drinks. Care to join me?

Of course, the history of these three goes back less than 200 years. But while bartending may not be the world’s oldest profession, we do know that as long ago as the days of Julius Caesar there were merchants traveling the famous Roman roadways. Along those trade routes, inns sprang up, offering not only a bed and breakfast, but alcoholic beverages as well.

When the Romans began to move into the British Isles and create their network of roadways there, Roman taverns began to spring up. By the 14th century, the tavern owners would put green bushes on poles to signal passersby that beer was sold there. This was in imitation of the Roman custom of displaying vines to advertise wine sales. These bushes were the forerunners of the famous British pub signs.

In the early 1800s, Americans began to enjoy increased spirit production. Originally, spirits could only be served to overnight guests at inns. But in 1832, Congress passed the Tavern Law, allowing saloons to serve guests who were not spending the night. America entered what has been called The Golden Age of Cocktails. The gold glistened for nearly 80 years – until Prohibition.

Obviously, times have changed. Prohibition has come and gone. So have Jerry Thomas, Ada Coleman, and Victor Bergeron. Today, we seem to be enjoying a new golden age. In ever-increasing numbers, establishments offering a dazzling array of sophisticated cocktails continue to appear on our own dynamic dining scene. We have our own talented men and women who continue to raise the bar with regard to this ancient profession.

Operating on the theory that we all enjoy getting to know our local bartender, we now introduce to you a few of River City’s most masterful mixologists.

Mattias Hagglund is not just the bartender at Heritage – he also owns the place, along with his sister and her husband, Emilia and Joe Sparatta.

Mattias modestly describes Heritage as a “neighborhood restaurant putting out the best food and drinks we can at reasonable prices. We hope to leave a lasting impression that will keep folks coming back for more.” This dynamic trio has definitely realized that hope already.

RC: What’s the most important quality a good mixologist should possess?

MH: The ability to multitask and tend a bar efficiently and hospitably. I don’t care if your drink has 17 different ingredients and features the shavings of fossilized unicorn horns. Hospitality, speed and efficiency make a good bartender.

RC: Can you think of any strange drink requests you’ve received?

MH: Straight vodka martini, little-to-no vermouth, but low alcohol please. It’s the type of order where you kind of pause and think, “Is this person messing with me?”

MH: You’re only as good as what you’ve tasted, so never stop exploring the world around you. Taste and smell everything you can – in bars, grocery stores, restaurants, everywhere. It’s the only way to keep growing.

Holly Cohn has been one of our favorite West End bartenders since we first met her about five years ago at Hondo’s. In fact, Holly has been at Hondo’s for nearly 15 years. She describes this popular Innsbrook-area steakhouse as offering “personalized service in a cozy and inviting environment.”

RC: What’s the most important quality in a bartender?

HC: Consistency and multi-tasking.

RC: What do you like best about your job?

HC: The people on the other side of the bar; every shift is different and never boring.

“I started as a shucker with Rappahannock before they even opened,” says Jason Lough, beverage manager at this downtown Richmond hot new farm-to-table restaurant and raw bar. “They pretty much let me slide in at the bar.”

It appears the slide was a good fit for Jason, who had been bartending for about four years previously. He describes Rappahannock as having “a laid-back clientele who seek an energetic vibe.”

RC: What is the most important quality you’d look for in a bartender?

JL: An outgoing personality, who is willing to share himself and connect on a personal level.

RC: When you’re not behind the bar, what are your hobbies or interests?

JL: I have a million passions, but I think painting and cooking are at the top.

RC: What’s the best tip you ever got?

JL: I was in the Navy on a nuclear-powered submarine standing lookout in the bridge. I had just finished one of my angry rants about how everything sucks, when my officer of the deck told me, “If you shoot for the moon and miss you’ll still be sailing with the stars.” That really stuck with me. I guess because I was at a real low in my life. I also got a $1,000 tip once, but that didn’t stay with me as long.

The accolades keep on a’coming for this Church Hill dining spot, including Esquire magazine’s having just included The Roosevelt in their list of the top 24 bars in the U.S. Thomas Leggett, bar manager, says, “Our food is an untraditional celebration of the food of the South, served alongside an all-Virginia wine list, a hearty roster of regional beers, and a selection of craft cocktails.”

RC: What do you enjoy most about bartending?

TL: Meeting and interacting with people. Developing a trade and refining a skill set.

RC: Who pours your favorite cocktail?

TL: Mattias and Tim at Heritage knock cocktails out of the park.

RC: When you’re not behind the bar, any hobbies?

TL: I enjoy fishing and trying to make my old truck run.

RC: What’s the best tip you’ve ever received?

TL: “Don’t just play Slayer,” from Kendra Feather, co-owner of The Roosevelt.