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Re: setup for Nikon d3s and nikkor 10.5

actually I realized that the nikon 10.5mm is for me the best choice in combination with the R1
than I&#039;ll se if to keep or sell the nikkor 16mm
about the HDR the problem is the time it keeps in post processing , if you have an interior with 5-10
panos is a big difference if you have 4 or 6 shots around ...
Anyway you both gave me a great help .thank you very much!
cheers

Re: setup for Nikon d3s and nikkor 10.5

Furthermore: If I want to start with 4+2. I have to use the cam in landscape mode
Sorry for the stupid question: first time i work with the R1

Zoli, You cannot cover the full 360x180 view with only 4+Z+N with an unshaved (not unshaped) 10.5mm fisheye on a D90, whether you have the camera mounted in portrait or landscape orientation. See http://www.vrwave.com/, or load a set of dummy images into PTGui and try different shooting possibilities by positioning the images manually in the Panorama Editor window. You will quickly see what works and what doesn&#039;t.
John

Re: setup for Nikon d3s and nikkor 10.5

Hey John,
thanks for the fast reply.
But my lens works with (nearly) 180 degree, right? Using the D90 I have no shaping effect.

I tried the following: 6 stops (not in the landscape mode) plus Z and N. The result is bad and i asked me why. When i took the Z picture PTGui found no possibility to connect the Z-picture to the other pictures.

The R1 can only work with 0, -5 and -7.5 degree. I tried it with 0 degree. Maybe i tried it in the wrong way. But whats the right way? What degree is helpful and how i take the Z and the N picture to get better results....

Thanks for the link to the database. Now I am a little bit confused. I thought I work fullframe but i forgot the 1.5 factor, right?
All the best and greetings from Germany
Zoli

Re: setup for Nikon d3s and nikkor 10.5

my lens works with (nearly) 180 degree, right? Using the D90 I have no shaping effect.

You have an fov of 180 degrees across the diagonal of the frame. I&#039;m sorry, but I&#039;ve no idea what you mean by "shaping effect".

[Quote}I tried the following: 6 stops (not in the landscape mode) plus Z and N. The result is bad and i asked me why. When i took the Z picture PTGui found no possibility to connect the Z-picture to the other pictures.[/quote]

The zenith image should overlap the horizontal row of images without leaving any gaps. Depending on the subject, PTGui might not be able to identify any matching features in the overlap areas. You might be able to assign some control points manually though.

The R1 can only work with 0, -5 and -7.5 degree. I tried it with 0 degree. Maybe i tried it in the wrong way. But whats the right way? What degree is helpful and how i take the Z and the N picture to get better results....

Instead of pointing the camera straight upwards for the zenith shot (pitch=90), you can tilt the camera up only 65 degrees, say, to bring one edge of the zenith image down to the horizon so that there is a much better chance of finding matching features for control points there. This is easy to do with an NN3 or NN5, but the zenith is always going to be somewhat problematical with the R1.

Thanks for the link to the database. Now I am a little bit confused. I thought I work fullframe but i forgot the 1.5 factor, right?

Re: setup for Nikon d3s and nikkor 10.5

just for information, R1 works from -15° to +12.5°, by changing the upper knob from one side to the other. I just have tried D90 nikkor 10.5 even at +12.5° in NPP with R1. But even with this setting, the zenith shot leaves a small hole, and a much bigger hole in the nadir.

So you have to take a separate zenith shot, which will be off NPP, and a handheld nadir shot as well as well. And then you have to stitch N and Z manually to the pano.

Not being used to these things, I would recommend you to use a NN3, which works fine With D90 Nikkor 10.5,6 shots around, one zenith at +90, with the new nadir adaptor 2 nadir shots without handheld shot.

And this should stitch in one go when you do not shoot in rare places, small rooms with white walls and ceilings.

Re: setup for Nikon d3s and nikkor 10.5

You have an fov of 180 degrees across the diagonal of the frame. I&#039;m sorry, but I&#039;ve no idea what you mean by "shaping effect".

Shaping means not work with Fullframe. OK... the first step is clear. 6 Stops for the horizontal pictures. The Z pic is clear as well and i think i will be able to set the controll points for the Z in PTGui.
What I try to do: Finding the best way for shooting the Nadir picture. I work with a tripod and the R1 and i am not able to shoot a Nadir picture which works out for the stiching process. Maybe i handle it in the wrong way and maybe you have an idea how to get better results.

Originally Posted by John Houghton

Instead of pointing the camera straight upwards for the zenith shot (pitch=90), you can tilt the camera up only 65 degrees, say, to bring one edge of the zenith image down to the horizon so that there is a much better chance of finding matching features for control points there. This is easy to do with an NN3 or NN5, but the zenith is always going to be somewhat problematical with the R1.

OK... You think working with the NN5 or NN3 is easier? Maybe i have the change to test this.
John

Re: setup for Nikon d3s and nikkor 10.5

I work with a tripod and the R1 and i am not able to shoot a Nadir picture which works out for the stiching process. Maybe i handle it in the wrong way and maybe you have an idea how to get better results.