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Possible mismatch combo?

Allright guys I need some of your honest and expert opinions on my engine combo I built in 2001in my 66 mustang.

Engine:
Roller block 5.0 .030
Edelbrock performer heads
Victor jr. Intake
650 speed demon carb.
X303 cam
T5 tran.
9in. Rear 3.50 31 spline axel
I would like to replace the cam,intake, and ring and pinion but I'm not sure what to do and need you help on it and how much hp should this combo makes?

No such thing as an internet dyno. Guessing power on a 16 year old build is not just impossible, it's just COMPLETELY impossible. That engine could have 400,000 miles on it without an oil change. Or it could be a garage queen with 500 miles on it since new. You have given us no information as to what the car is used for or what the goals are so to say you want to replace the cam intake and gear without that is also pointless. Are you trying to daily drive the car? Are you trying to get the most miles per gallon you can? Are you trying to cover the 1/4 mile in 9 seconds? I am wondering it this post is a joke or serious.

There have to be hundreds of dyno shops in California, take it to one and find out what it makes.

Sorry this post is not a joke all serious,the engine is about or around 2500 mi. (Garage queen and sometimes weekend cruise) all new parts except the block and crank the car is intended for quarter mile drag .pic of the car

Go with 4:11 gears next, especially since you have a single plane intake on it. The switch from 3.55 to 4.10 knocked .3 sec off my 1/4 et in my Capri with a less powerful engine combo. It will feel a lot more powerful. I would also suggest putting a wideband o2 in the car and sorting out the tune, NGK V power plugs, and curving the distributor if these things haven't been done yet. That engine should make just north of 300hp to the wheels. Those are the things I would do first to see what happens, then perhaps a switch to a Professional Products Typhoon intake manifold if you want some better street manners.

4.10 is first on the list then cam and intake or should I leave those alone. When the motor was built it was intended to be fuel injection didn't want to mess with all wiring harness so carb was the answered.how does the wide band 02 work? And do I curve the dist.? Is there a special part #for the spark plugs

The wideband o2 sensor and gauge will tell you what your air/fuel ratio is so you can fine tune your carburetor. I have an AEM one in my car that I like. I have NGK UR6 spark plugs in mine, but I'm not sure what your compression ratio is or if it's the plug to use in your combination. I have found that the NGK plugs seem to give me better throttle response over time then Motorcraft/Autolite, where the car always seemed to go flat after the initial drive with those. Don't put platinum or iridium plugs in it. They last a long time but don't give the best performance. Not sure what distributor you have, but curving the distributor usually consists of swapping advance springs, swapping plates, to get total mechanical advance and what rpm it comes in at dialed in. Things to look into.

I would leave the cam alone for now, I don't think it's too bad. Letter cams are dated but work, and that is relatively in line with your combination. I do think the single plane intake is a mismatch. 3500-8k power band, cam is 2200-6200, the intake I recommended would go a lot better with the cam's powerband. The gears alone will make a night and day difference. What do you want this thing to do exactly, how high are you wanting to spin it, what tires do you run at the track, what the percentage street and strip?

If you are after ET's the rpm range of the intake is good but you need more cam to make it match. Strong pushrods, shimmed roller lifters or prepped short stroke units. Higher oil pressure, Strong retainers, properly matched springs, etc. read articles on making a 302 run high RPM and apply it.

I would not spin a stock bottom end 302 past 7000 and limit power to not more than 450 at the crank. Main braces, etc, only go so far.

I would not spin an exotic rotating assembly in a stock block 5.0 past 7500.

Better blocks and rotating assemblies will do better at staying together.

All this being said, I feel like a lot of great cars that were fun to drive on the street have been killed in the name of the almighty low ET. A strong street combo makes a good street/strip combo and can run close to what the same budget could build full race while remaining streetable.

Also I can't count the number of "race" cars even a mostly stock foxbody 5.0 mustang or now days a new one beats. Always makes me think long and hard about what it really takes to run a number.

Thanks for your opinion and info guys, after reading all yours comments and gather all the info first I will do is swap rear gears to 4.10 ,performer rpm or torker 2 and if budget allow maybe com. cams x274.

My goal for the car is to get the best ETS in 1/4 mi.

After all these years the car has never seen a race track so I'm eager to see what it will do after the swap is complete.
I believe the engine has a 10.1 compression ,trans is a '93 cobra t5 with zoom clutch and tires is M/T ET street radial 275 60 15.
Thanks again guys.

Hit youtube - There is a 10.5W street slick foxbody out there running in 5.90's in the 1/4 at over 250. If you watch the video carefully you'll see the timeslip. 1.1 60', over 200 mph in the 1/8th. On drag radials! Headlights, blinkers, etc. Effectively a "street car". obviously extensively modified and the motor has big power adders and is making giant power numbers.

Anyway - if low ETs is what you are after....... Speed costs money. How fast can you afford to go? In a given class in many cases the time the cars run so close it comes down to driver.

Many racers say 2/3 of the time with cars in the same class the driver with the best RT wins. If things don't go wrong on the leading car it's usually the result. Missed gears and broken parts make it a bit more of a crapshoot for sure.

Id set an ET goal. I'd build what is essentially a known performer that runs quicker than my number so it's less difficult to reach the goal. If you don't you will spend 10's of thousands of dollars with trial and error and broken parts trying to dial it in.

oh - and you'll suffer demoralizing defeats at the hand of cars with way less invested in them too....

I think the Typhoon will have bigger runners than the Performer RPM, as well at the rear coolant crossover which I believe helps regulate the intake temperature. I am not sure what to expect with the Torker 2. If you are going to buy a cam new, you may as well get a custom cam ground as the price is not much more than a new off the shelf. Stock block engine I think is best to limit rpm to 6500 for longevity.

To be honest I don't think you're going to get 11's with what I suggested engine-wise. I think to do that n/a you'll need a cam that pulls to 7k with your current intake manifold. I don't know what your bottom end consists of, but spinning a stock block 302 past 6500 is outside of my comfort zone. I think that combination will be dead in the water until you spin it to 3k. If you do what I suggested, I think you will get something that has instant power everywhere on the street to 6k, and easily go 12s.

cb84Capri, thank you very much for your reply I appreciate all the tech info. I try to remove third member for gear swap but the California heat is too much for me so the whole housing is coming out for deep cleaning. the bottom end consist of .030 forge pistons not sure of the brand maybe SRP or ? Reconditioned rods and ARP bolts holds everything together in like the typhoon intake what cams would you recommend for the victory jr. Intake?

How much stick shift drag time do you have? I ask because I have a car that is probably capable of high 11's to low 12's, that i still can't get out of the mid to high 12's due to my lack of practice and suspension issues. You might want to get some wheel time in what you currently have before you start upping the power. A few passes will also go a long way to answering the questions about gearing and where your powerband is.

My first stick shift is 93 lx 5.0 vert with similar setup except for the gt40 intake, cam and other bolts on stuff went mid 13s and had
a 98 cobra with typical bolt-on that went in the 13s.I believe this mustang is lighter than both svt and the lx 5.0,'66 mustang has no p/s,a/c,or heater I understand that suspension maybe an issue.