Wednesday, June 20, 2007

The Out-of-Towner's Guide to Jewish Chicago

Welcome to Chicago!

I am sure you've heard about us warm Midwesterners. All the kind, pleasant things they say are true: people in Chicago are warm, giving, caring folks who are very involved in chesedand very open to newcomers. If you're coming here for a visit or interested in staying long-term, you've picked the best of places. Good job!

More particularly, those guides are simply lists of places and addresses while I can theoretically add to that- detail is always exciting, yes? So let's begin!

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COMMUNITIESThere are three major Jewish communities in Chicago. They are:

West Rogers Park

Skokie

Peterson Park

There are smaller communities in Buffalo Grove, Highland Park and other suburbs (Lincolnwood, Northbrook), but for the purpose of this guide we shall focus on the main three.

How to differentiate between these three communities? Why, that's easy!

It all has to do with jackets.

A man daveningin a Skokieshul will not feel it necessary to wear a jacket during prayer, a man daveningin West Roger's Park would wear a jacket and a man daveningin Peterson Park would wear a jacket and a black hat.

The Modern Orthodox reside in Skokie. The Modern Orthodox to Orthodox reside in West Roger's Park. The Orthodox to Ultra-Orthodox reside in Peterson Park. So it all works out nicely and everyone's happy.

There is a strong Lubavitch presence in Chicago, incidentally.

SHULS

There are many synagogues in Chicago. For a full list of Orthodox synagogues, I suggest you look here. For a list of minyanim and times, look here.

Sha'areiTzedek features a warm and vibrant community made up of young adults and their children, including many Ba'aleiTeshuva. At the moment, the shul is under construction, so it is not as pretty as it could be and if aesthetics are important to you, you will not like it. Rabbi Reuven Gross is a kind, learned man who is well-spoken and articulate. His speeches on Sabbath afternoon (after Torah reading) are always interesting and well-prepared; he is very good at connecting with everyone in the audience, no matter their background. The shul does have a kiddush with goodies and treats from Breadsmith and cholentmade by Mrs. Gross (it's quite tasty.) There are children's programs in the back room. There are classes and shiurim offered as well.

Yes, this shul is officially called AterethYehoshua. Be warned, nobody calls it that. It is "Eichenstein's." If you say you are going to AteresYehoshua, people will be confused. This shul features a daveningthat is nussachSephard. It is also exciting because the Rabbi does not speak very often (and people enjoy not having to endure long speeches.) There is a kiddush here as well, featuring goodies from a different bakery; I'm not sure which one. Children's programs take place upstairs. This shul features many middle-aged or older folks, though there is definitely a younger component as well.

This shulis simply known as "Yeshurun." This is a mixed crowd-you've got everyone from Modern Orthodox to Agudah; here's where you'll find the largest social scene (this may simply be because it's the largest building, hence able to accomodate the most people.) Having recently moved to a new building, Yeshurun is the most beautiful out of all the shulson Touhy. There is a large mahogany balustrade and balcony; the women remain on top while the men are below. Everything is decorated very beautifully. Rabbi Zev Cohen is known for his fiery, passionate speeches and his characteristic use of the word "Rabbosai." There are children's programs. There is a kiddush. I affectionately call this shulthe "KiddushShul" because on Friday nights, the Rabbi makes kiddush up on the bimah and all the little children get to go up and drink out of little cups. I was always very excited to go to "The KiddushShul" with my father. (NussachAshkenaz)

If you're a person who cares about aesthetics, you will very much enjoy Ezras Israel's MechitzaMinyan. This shulhas beautiful stained-glass windows and an absolutely gorgeous mechitza. The people are warm and welcoming. The service is explained in both Hebrew and English; someone regularly announces which page everyone is on. When they take out the Torah, they make a large circle and walk through the women's section as well, thus allowing the women to kiss the Torah. Rabbi Doug Zelden is an extremely likeable man, very friendly, very welcoming, the kind of person who notices you if you are new. His speeches are always short, clever, and explained in a way that everyone can understand (translation of Hebrew terms and the like.) The reason this minyanis referred to as the MechitzaMinyan is because there is an upstairs one with older congregants that is traditional and where they use a microphone/ there is no mechitza. There is a kiddush (often with a truly exceptional shiur given by Dr. Julian Ungar.) One note: The shul does not make use of Artscrollsiddurimbut instead works with the older (possibly Birnbaum) siddurim. (NussachAshkenaz)

K.I.N.S is an acronym for Knesset Israel Nusach Sefard (even though they daven nussach Ashkenaz.) KINS is a Modern Orthodox shulthat boasts truly stunning aesthetics. The interior of the shulfeatures even more gorgeous stained-glass windows and plush seats and an elevated bimah at the front. The most important aspect of this shul is its Zionism. This is the Zionisticshul in Chicago; speeches given by Rabbi Leonard Matanky are definitely going to be pro-Israel and many of them will have a political slant. They say the prayer for the welfare of the State and for the soldiers in the army. The daveningis nussachAshkenazexcept for the fact that they say the daily "Yom" after ShemonehEsrei, the Sephardi approach. KINS also features a large social hall; sometimes people hold weddings there. It is a comparatively large shulin Chicago; also a place with many dedicated congregants and a definite "scene" (there are lots of young people here.) There is a kiddush (and children's programs, I believe.)

This is a Modern Orthodox, Zionisticshulin Skokie. They say the prayer for the welfare of the State of Israel/ the soldiers. A close-knit group of people who are very kind and welcoming, really fine individuals. Rabbi GershonSchaffel's speeches are excellent. He has lately decided to give a Parshanut course and disguise it as a Shabbos speech. It's working quite well. Each month, he chooses a great scholar (he's also going in historical order)- this month it's Rabbi Samson Raphael Hirsch. He gives some background on the scholar, interesting tidbits and pieces of information, then proceeds to learn something connected to the parsha. (He prints off sheets before Shabbos and gives them to the congregants.)He has fantastic insights into the scholar's chosen mode and method of commentary. It's a really good way of keeping people focused and coming back for more. The shul has a delicious kiddush and children's programs upstairs. (Nussach Ashkenaz)

The SkokieKollel has clever Shabbat services. They finish very quickly because they avoid all unnecessary speeches. They then have a sit-down kiddush (the women help put out the different salads, brownies, etc), men and women are seated separately. That is when the Rabbi speaks- when everyone is comfortable and listening because they're not hungry. It's a nice system. Since they are the Kollel, they obviously offer many different services (shiurim and the like.) On Shabbos, the Kollel has more of the Orthodox crowd (rather than Modern Orthodox) and the people who attend come with their families (rather than being predominantly teenagers or older couples.) They are very welcoming, however, and very accomodating. (Nussach Ashkenaz)Or Torah3800 W. DempsterSkokie, IL 60076Rabbi Harvey WellPresident Dr. Joseph GluckPhone: (847) 679-3645Fax:(847) 679-3665

Or Torah is the quintessential Modern Orthodox, Zionisticshulin Skokie. They say the prayer for the welfare of Israel/ the army. A very large shul, similar to KINS, in fact, this is the "scene" in Skokie. This is where all the teenagers and younger people congregate. Very spacious rooms and davening halls; there are two minyanim on Shabbos. One is earlier in the morning; the other, which is the main one, starts at 9. There are long benches rather than separate seats. Rabbi Harvey Well's speeches are also often political in nature, Zionistic and the like. There are children's programs and a large kiddush. At the moment, because Rabbi Harvey Well is retiring, they are auditioning Rabbis. (Nussach Ashkenaz)

SCHOOLSThere are a lot of schools. Elementary schools are listed here.High schools are listed here.

The most common elementary schools for a Chicago child to attend:

1. Hillel Torah North Suburban Day School- If you are Modern Orthodox, Zionistic and don't mind people who will wear pants/ won't cover their hair, this is the school. The only elementary school in Chicago to have a ChidonHaTanach(International Bible Contest) program. The academics are very good; unfortunately children miss out on Talmud in favor of Tanakh. Classes are coed. Dresscode but no uniforms. Has a Keshet program.

2. Arie Crown Hebrew Day School- If you are Orthodox to Modern Orthodox and optionally Zionistic, this is the school for you. Classes are separate- there's a part of the school (upstairs) just for girls. There's another part of the school (downstairs) that's just for boys. Uniforms for the girls (plaid skirts, oxford or polo shirts, kneesocks) and dresscode for the boys. Has a Keshet program.

3. Yeshiva TiferetTzvi/ BeisYaakov- These are two separate schools, both created and founded by the Agudah. These schools are for Ultra-Orthodox people. Yeshiva TiferetTzvi is for boys and BeisYaakov is for girls. Obviously, there are uniforms/ a dress code. Library books are censored (there are parts that are blacked out.)

If you need information- legitimately- about the high schools in Chicago, you can email me.

There is a Jewish college in Chicago. For guys, it's the Hebrew Theological College. For girls, it's the Anne M. Blitstein Institute (TI). It's got a different clientele than Stern- the girls who go to TI are generally more to the right. I highly recommend any class taught by Rabbi ShmuelKurtz if you're interested in enrolling in a night course. The man is brilliant and I love him.

Acheinu- THIS IS ESSENTIAL. If you come to Chicago, you must, and I cannot repeat this enough, own the Acheinu. This is the phonebook for everyone Jewish in Chicago (well, who chooses to be listed.) It also contains the phone numbers for every single store/ restaraunt/ handyman/ private business/ shop. You want the Acheinu. (You can get it in a physical format or can download it to a PDA.)

Acheinu Weekly Bulletin

Also, make sure you get signed up with "the Yeshiva's" Purim ShalachManos service. It's Skokie Yeshiva. (More about that in a different post of mine.)

PROGRAMSThe JCC, or Jewish Community Center. The Bernard HorwichJCC is amazing. They even have separate workout rooms now!

There's NCSY/ BneiAkiva/ SNIF in Chicago, but I'm not the one to ask about the particulars.

APPLIANCES (Washing Machines/ Computers/ Ovens/ Etc)There's your typical Best Buy/ Office Max/ Costco/ Office Depot/ Home Depot/ Menards. But Chicago bosts an extra-special amazing store with much cheaper prices than the rest. That is ABT. They have amazing customer service; the store itself is one of the coolest places ever (they have a Home Theater section where you can sit in massage chairs and watch whichever movie is playing, a tank full of fish and a globe revolving in water- kids are transfixed with wonder) and you will love it. Buy all your appliances at ABT.

Yes, we have a kosher Jewel Osco. And I mean really kosher. So kosher that they've got a Jewel bakery that bakes kosher bread, pies, donuts and cakes. They've got a kosher deli. They've even got a Chinese take-out restaraunt situated there, Tein Li Chow. Grocery shopping was never so fun. (And of course, everything is at normal prices because Jewel Osco is a regular store rather than a specifically Jewish store.)

Dairy Bagel Country: A very good place to go with your family, not the place you want to go for a fancy date. Open, bustling, small tables or little booths. They have excellent pizza bagels and I've heard the tuna wrap is good, too. They also have an ice cream section which is pretty awesome. Relatively inexpensive.

B.B.'s Bagels: A quick stop-off for coffee or your morning routine. Food is good but the eatery is relatively small and faces the street. You can expect typical breakfast/lunch type foods, different kinds of eggs, sandwiches, wraps, pancakes. I recommend the pancakes- they are excellent. Relatively inexpensive.

Da'Nali's Cafe: They have the best deep-dish pizza in all of Chicago. A nice place to go with the family or on a moderately fancy date. They sometimes have entertainment (little bands or the like.) You have not lived until you have eaten Da'Nali's frenchfries. You will not forget them. (They're also conveniently located right next to Hungarian, so you can grocery-shop afterwards, if you're with your family.) Moderately expensive.

Dunkin' Donuts: There is a particular Dunkin' Donuts that is kosher in Chicago; not all of them are kosher. Your obvious Dunkin' Donuts; I don't need to explain.

Main Street Pizza and Ice Cream Parlor: They make excellent pizza. And I enjoy their ice cream, too. Good family place; you'll see friends hanging out here, too. Little tables or booths. Relatively inexpensive- potentially moderate.

Slice of Life: This is the fancy dairy restaurant in Chicago. Here you can get pastas and pizzas and all kinds of fancy dishes. Food is excellent; the service could be better. I love the French Onion soup, also enjoy the eggplant parmesan. Expensive.

Tel Aviv Kosher Pizza: Family place and/or friends hanging out here. Very relaxed place. The owners are very warm. Relatively inexpensive.

Malibu: Malibu just opened; it's right next to Ken's Diner. It has a summer beach theme (so there are interesting palm-tree lights everywhere, sand, blown-up boats and the like.) The food was good; they had some gig playing there on Saturday night. Not very many choices, so if you like variety, this isn't the place. Pretty much pizza and maybe one pasta dish. Relatively inexpensive.

Meat

Great Chicago: This is just like Ken's Diner except it's not as well-known. The theme features Native Americans. They have a sukkah over Sukkos (so you can eat there.) They're your typical fast-food place- burgers, chicken nuggets, different types of chicken, cold cuts, etc. Nice place, great hangout for family or friends. Relatively inexpensive.

Hy Life Bistro: Fancy place- this is the meat section of Slice of Life. I've only been there once and it was pretty decent, not incredibly amazing. This is the place you go if you want to treat someone to something special, it's a night out with the family or you're taking someone on a date. Expensive.

Ken's Diner: And this is the best-known restaurant in all of Chicago. It's a grease-joint, fast-food just like Great Chicago. The theme is different, though- they've got old posters and they have it decorated like in fifties-style with old booths and all. Candy dispensers and a little alcove make it fun; there are televisions there that are always showing sports. The people who work there are chummy and amusing. Burgers, chicken nuggets, sub sandwiches. Great place to hang out with friends; they also have an excellent veggie burger. Good family place, too. Relatively inexpensive.

Shallots:This is the fanciest, most expensive restaurant in all of Chicago. The food is delicious. I got to go there for my birthday (see this post-it has pictures of the food)! Gorgeous restaurant, wonderful ambience, excellent steaks and awesome desserts. Famous for "The Black Hat" dessert. Very expensive.

Taboun Grill: Excellent Israeli food, definitely different. Kubeh, schwarma, very spicy food- Meditteranean atmosphere. The restaurant is generally crowded, so there's not so much privacy, but other than that it's a really nice place. Family/ friends/ date.

This is the mall in Chicago. If you come to Chicago and don't stop by Old Orchard (now called Westfield Mall), you're missing the whole entire point. Firstly, it's huge. Every store you could possibly want is there. And of course they've got movie theaters, lots of places outdoors to sit and listen to the classical music, gorgeous fountains- it's basically amazing. Go to Old Orchard. Go now. There's definitely something for everyone, every age- everything from the Disney Store to Sharper Image to Brookstone to Abercrombie and Fitch. Obviously all the department stores- Lord and Taylor, Nordstroms, Macy's...oh, and just across the street there's a DSW Outlet. It's an outdoor mall, which makes it amazing in the summer- and beautiful in the winter, with all the Christmas decorations.

This is an upscale indoor mall that has over 200 stores. Also has a beautiful fountain and has many different levels. It's gorgeous but just not as much fun as Old Orchard. This is the place to go if you crave variety or have to buy something very fancy.

This is a store that caters to the Orthodox Jewish community. They offer fun, stylish tznius clothes. Danielle's (the owner's) collection changes; sometimes there are one-of-a-kind items there, sometimes the items are less unique. I have found some really gorgeous clothes there. The key is to stop by frequently; she changes it up often enough!

Itz You2936 W Devon AvenueChicago IL 60659Phone: (773) 465-5886

This is a store for the Ultra-Orthodox. She sells suits of many kinds; everything is supposedly from New York and fits a certain kind of person's style-not everyone's. It's an excellent store for long denim jean skirts. Also, there are some gorgeous Shabbos robes.

Fox'sYou can google Fox's; there are several different locations in Chicago. This is an excellent resource for a girl/ lady who is trying to find modest clothing here. Fox's carries a nice array of modest clothes.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS/ THINGS TO DOCheck out KidChicago.com for an excellent list of attractions in Chicago.

Chana, thank you so much for taking the time and typing this! I've been looking for something like this for some time. I'm trying to find out what community I want to move to. After I came up to Chicago last summer, I fell in love with it after strolling down Devon on a bright and beautiful day. That was also a trip where I had to stay at the Tip-Top Motel on Lincoln! (that was an experience) It's also really nice to find a nice assortment of Chicago Jewish blogs to read to help me understand the area. It's so much different from where I live. FrumHouse made a cool motoblog of part of the West Rogers Park neighborhood, which was really cool (for a hick like me at least).

When I was a student at Chicago and working in Akiba-Schechter, I think they did Chidon HaTanach too. And yes, I requested a guide to Chicago even though I used to live there. I just never left Hyde Park!-Sarah

"You have not lived until you have eaten Da'Nali's frenchfries. You will not forget them."-They knew me in there, as the girl who would come in almost daily and order nothing but fries... Haven't found any other fries that meet that standard!

"Great Chicago"-Was jsut in Chi-Town on monday and apparently Great Chicago is missing.

So where is all of the downtown touristy stuff? The john hancock, navy pier, magnificent mile....

bs'dChana,A couple of days ago when you were doing your guide to NY, I was wondering when you would publish a guide to Chicago. Thanks for writing one. Now people can appreciate this pretty awesome city. By the way, for anyone who's interested, Chicago may host the 2016 summer Olympics!

As a native of one of three aforementioned "large jewish communities" in Chicago I am certainly qualified to post comments/remarks about what has been said here. All in all you did a great job, Chana. Chicago is an amazing city and I would love to move back there someday soon. I feel like it is my duty to mention one item that is lacking in this post. The Magnificent Mile.This is the stretch on Michigan Avenue with allll the shopping :) With famous places such as Water Tower Place and the 900 North Michigan Avenue building, think 5th avenue but so much prettier with slightly less obnoxious cab drivers (but barely slightly). And not far from there is the family favorite - Navy Pier. In the summer months there is a free shuttle from the city of Chicago which runs from the Michigan Avenue area to Navy Pier all day long. At navy pier they have the famous ferris wheel, numerous boat rides (the sea dog is my personal favorite) and fireworks twice a week from memorial day through labor day(wednesday and saturday nights). My family went down there once and we rented a 4 person bicycle and went along lake michigan. We had a blast! OK, I think i have said enough for now....well done!Ram - I am pretty sure u can get an acheinu for 10 dollars. Here is the contact information i found on a website. Acheinu Community DirectoryPhone: (773) 761-4005Contact: Sara Eichenstein

I appreciate the Chicago stuff. I forwarded it to my Chicago friend who loves Pop and all that, but I don't understand. Doesn't anyone want to find ways to celebrate NY? Do you out of towners just want to whine about my hometown? Or does anyone, New Yorkers too, have anything to comment in the earlier post about what is so unbelievably great about being Jewish in NY???

Now that I think about it, this is a great article in general, but I have one minor quibble: Why do you use the phrase Ultra Orthodox? I'm not chareidi myself, but I'm pretty sure that most yeshivish/chassidish people don't like the term. Wouldn't it be nicer to avoid it?

Ken's and Great Chicago split years ago. Aarons columns in the Chicago Jewish News is nothing more than self contradictory babble most of the time.

KINS is a shul that relocated from the old South side (I believe). It is over 100 years old. The original WAS Sefard.

Scraps the Purple Hotel is no more. Rabbi Fasman's shul was across the street.

Ram its hard to get an Acheinu if you don't live in Chicago. Too many fund raisers use them.

Some little tidbits:

1) North Avenue. Right past the Beach is the BEST view of the Chicago Skyline. You can also visit a little know landmark at the park across the street. The park was the site of a Civil war POW camp and cemetery. All of the bodies were moved and reintered...except one. There is a mausoleum across the street from the baseball field that still contains one person.

2) Make sure to go to the 2nd City's free Improv show on Saturday Nights. Most SNL cast members got their start there.

3) Wrigley Feild is easy to get to and close to the Frum community. No Kosher concession, BUT you can bring in your 7-11 Slurpee and Big Gulp cups from the 7-11 located right across the street! Many of the Vendors at the Ballpark are Skokie Yeshiva students.

4) Many of the Churches on the West Side and South Side STILL have Hebrew writing on them.

5) Maxwell Street is STILL there. That is one place dripping with Jewish history (although you wouldn't know it now).

6) Devon is but a shadow of its former self. It was the Jewish Mecca. Mecca IS how I'd describe it today.

7) Romanian makes the BEST cold cuts and kishke, but are not licensed to send it out of state. Come with an insulated bag.

8) The Chicago Dunkin Donouts was the FIRST Kosher Dunkin Donouts in the US.

9) Most Chicago Rabbis hold that Cohanim can NOT visit either the Feild Museum or the Museum of Science and Industry.

10) The Jewish Cemetery, Waldheim, is the burial ground for Emma Goldman and numerous radical anarchists from the turn of the 20th Century.

11) There is a small Orthodox community in Hyde Park on the far South Side of Chicago near the University of Chicago.

I LOVE the Sephardi synagogues, don't get me wrong. My mom is Sephardi...the only reason I left them out is because I don't know enough about them. I stipulated that I was only going to write about the shuls I knew about.

I DO have a link to all the shuls if you read it again...

There's also the Lubavitch shuls while we're at it- Bnei Reuven, etc- I just don't know them well enough to write about them.

For young Russian Jews: Heritage - on Touhy (roughly between Eichenstein and Shaarei Mizrach) - excellent cholent on Shabbat, lots of learning during the week. A home for an intelligent Russian Jew. Not Zionistic though - a rabbi is a Telshe graduate (though an Israeli citizen). Nussach Ashkenaz.

not sure if you can help or not- i am going to be coming to chicago for a family wedding and traveling with my two young children- do you know of a place to rent cars with car seats attached?jenbf12@aol.com

The core of the Ezras Israel Mechitzah Minyan in Chicago moved out and into their own shul, now known as Congregation Or Menorah at 7250 N California and took over the building in an old closed down reform synagogue, and is now orthodox there with rabbi Doug Zelden as their Rav. http://ormenorah.com is their website.

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You are not correct in your assessment of the different types of Jews in each of the neighborhood. Maybe this is due to your lack of exposure to all of the more yeshivish and chasidish shuls in west Rogers park and the people of Peterson park. The same type of people live in both, though wrp has a modern contingency as well. I guess you are just mainly catering to the more modern crowd...