The fifth taste, umami, has much to do with glutamate, an amino acid found in such foods as prosciutto, soy sauce and a number of cheeses. Umami can show up in your glass, too (fermentation is glutamate’s old friend).

When this recipe originally ran in The Globe and Mail, I received a lovely note from reader Barbara Zuchowicz. This dish reminded her of a wonderful meal she had in Italy: "It brought back joyful memories of a trip to Italy my late husband, an exceptional cook, and I took a number of years ago.

These are the wings I make so I can devour chicken wings without feeling guilty. They are simmered in stock to remove some of the fat, and the sauce is kept as fat-free as possible without sacrificing any taste. Use the leftover stock as a base for Asian soups or sauces.

Servings: 4

Ingredients

Sauce:

2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar or white-wine vinegar

2 tbsp Dijon mustard

2 tbsp honey

2 tsp hot-pepper sauce or to taste

2 tbsp orange juice

2 tbsp chopped chives

1 tbsp chopped tarragon

1 tbsp chopped mint

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Wings:

2 cups chicken stock

2 large cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped

2 lbs (1 kg) chicken wings, wing tip discarded, cut in half

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

Preheat oven to 450 F.

Combine ingredients for sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Reserve.

Combine chicken stock and garlic in a pot over high heat. Bring to a boil and add wings. Add more stock to cover if needed. Turn heat to medium and simmer wings, stirring occasionally for 8 minutes to 10 minutes or until chicken is almost cooked.

Drain chicken wings and place skin side up on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake for 20 minutes, turning once or until wings are golden brown and cooked through. Serve with sauce for dipping.