Vera Wang / Spring 2013 RTW

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“Does anyone even remember Jawaharlal Nehru?” Vera Wang calls out backstage minutes before her show, then answers herself in the next breath because the half-bare models and hectic dressers are otherwise engaged. “He was the prime minister of India.” For the better part of the twentieth century, to be exact, not that you’d really need to recall the political figure (let alone be able to spell his name) to appreciate what Wang was getting at with her stunning spring collection.

Yes, the starting point was India, but Wang’s interpretation was loose. (Anything more literal, she said, “wouldn’t really be me.”) She seems to have, for the moment anyway, put aside her athletic-inspired tendencies and chosen instead to focus on the kind of sophisticated, embellished sportswear that is inarguably her sweet spot—and exactly the kind of real options for day that are what women want from her. It started with gorgeous white cotton looks that appeared clean but were far from minimal. Sleeveless tops were heavily embroidered and swishy skirts (cut short or below the knee) were made with almost 20 yards of canvas each. From there, things got slightly dressier in dazzling colors: vibrant turquoise, emerald green, bright purple. Wang handles jewel tones better than anyone, and it was nothing short of exciting to see her play with them again after seasons of acerbic neons and muted shades. This was especially true when she used them for short, silk faille cocktail dresses that looked as if they were seductively falling off the shoulders and ladylike Chantilly lace sheaths with crystals at the waist and neck.

Then came the gold: a gorgeous gold lace sheath with an embroidered back, a cool hammered bullion tank with an almost-racer back, and a deep V-cut evening dress that would work as effortlessly on the red carpet as it would at a summer wedding.

So the collection overall could be described as Indian in its opulence and rich palette, but that’s where the line is drawn. “It’s not a sari, it’s not a sarong, and it’s not Bollywood,” Wang said. No, it’s Vera—and it was spectacular.