Cornas

Cornas was established in 1938. Only reds are made, and solely from the Syrah grape; a contributing factor to their style is the granitic soil. The wines are made traditionally and often spend two years in oak. They are also strong and powerful – a cross between Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie – but typically display less finesse. After five to 10 years of ageing the best examples take on a more elegant and complex character.

Learn more about Cornas

Cornas is situated directly south of St. Joseph, and to the west of the river Rhône. It is 12km south of Tournon and directly east of Valence. Importantly, temperatures here are hotter than Hermitage, which is only 7km away. Cornas is a small appellation located in a south-facing semi-ampitheatre with granite-rich soils. The appellation was established in 1938 and only red wines are made, produced solely from the Syrah grape.

A contributing factor to the style of the wines is the granitic soil; the wines are made traditionally and often spend two years in oak. They are also strong and powerful – a cross between Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, but typically displaying less elegance and finesse. They tend to be much more serious wines than either St Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage, however.

Cornas can have a slightly raw and rustic side to them. Young Cornas can be deep and dense, almost pitch black in colour and ferociously tannic. After five to 10 years of ageing the best examples take on a more elegant and complex character, marked by aromas of sous bois and wild animals.

The fruit for this wine comes from relatively younger vines on a relatively gentler slope; beware, however, because it’s all relative in Cornas, and even the 30-degree Mazards hillside is hard to farm for anyone contemplating working a vintage. Granitic austerity and lifted floral aromatics dance an apparently contradictory pas de deux with astonishingly fine footwork.Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

It makes a nice change to state that a winery is far from state-of-the-art; M Paris makes wine in the chaotic splendour behind a large but only half-built house in the backstreets of Cornas; so far, so unpromising. His wines, however, are sublime and it should come as no surprise that he has now joined the first rank of Cornas producers. This is more than appropriate and very good news for us, as we bought the wines from his Geynale vineyard when it was owned by his uncle Robert Michel, and have always considered it to be among the very best plots in the village. Looking at the 2013s, these are impressive across the board. The 2013 Cornas Granit 30 is still raw and unformed, with lots of jammy blueberry, black pepper and meatiness, medium to full-bodied richness and high, yet sweet tannin. It has terrific purity of fruit and should drink well on release.Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

A concentrated wine from the appellation du moment, the 2010 boasts the deep colour and tannic power for which Cornas is famous, yet still has pavonine elegance on the finish, which refreshes and satisfies in equal measure.Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

The alliance of two of the greatest houses of the Rhône, Jaboulet and Perrin, with Nicholas Jaboulet at its helm, was always a very promising one. The promise has quickly materialised and the 2010s are even better than the already excellent 2009s. The best sites and the best growers have been harnessed. As Nicolas eloquently puts it, the Perrins at Beaucastel exploit many different grapes on fundamentally the same terroir, but his goal here is to cultivate what is essential the same grape (albeit dependent on the colour of the wine) but in differing terroirs.

Les Empreintes is a blend of 10 different parcels, most of which are located in and around the lieu-dit of Le Chaillot, which is just to the north of the village. Thirty percent of the stems are maintained but the overall style is velvety and modern. Blackberries and bay leaf inform the nose and then the palate is savoury, slightly oily, with a macerated fruit texture and hints of black tea and liquorice at the back of the mouth. The tannins are ripe and powerful, but perfectly correct for a wine with this type of structure.Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Relatively new to our list, Domaine Durand is based just south of Mauves in the village of Châteaubourg, their ancient cellar located virtually underneath the ruins of the eponymous castle. The loquacious Joël advises that 2013 was complicated, but ultimately successful, with vines that have reached and passed their 25th year, that is to say the significant majority of those under his ownership, faring especially well. Another beauty, the 2013 Cornas Empreintes comes from slightly older vines and is destemmed, vinified in concrete tanks, and aged in 20% new barrels. Dark, inky black, it gives up decadent dark fruits, medium to full-bodied concentration and sweet tannin. For a cooler vintage, the texture here is shockingly rich and polished. As with the Prémices, it should drink well on release yet age gracefully.Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The Patou vineyards have yielded a ripe and warmly textured wine, with notes of cassis, eucalypt and mocha evidenced. Slight high-toned, the core of the wine is plump and reassuring.Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Located in the shadows of the spire of the village’s impressive church, Domaine Dumien-Serrette is unassuming and understated, unlike the wines of course, which glory in ripeness and fruit. Gilbert Serrette blends from barrique and larger vats, filled at this stage with the fruits that are distinguished only by whether or not their vines were located en coteau or en demi-coteau. He cites 2011 as an easier and less rustic vintage than 2010; the chronology and tempo of its evolution set in train by a rapid harvest on 14th and 15th September.

Hints of ripe figs, blackberries, blue fruits, charcoal and damp earth are present in the dark purple-hued 2009 Cornas Les Grands Muriers. This is a classic, old style Cornas with relatively civilized tannins as well as impressive purity. Consume it over the next 10 years.90-92/100 Robert Parker - Wine Advocate - Feb 2011

These vines, purchased from Cornas doyen Marcel Juge, are located to the south of the appellation, not far from St Peray. The 2009 is weighty and rich with cerebral winemaking and fine raw materials conspiring to produce a real vin de garde with plenty of Cornas power to reflect Gaillard glory.

Our 2012 Rhône Vintage Recommendation: Favourite Cornas From 50-year-old, south-facing vines, the Patou adds a sense of restraint to the dark, brooding fruit that we want to find in a Cornas, which is indeed also present here, juicy and smooth. The tannins are a little fresher than often found, which gives a lighter feel to the finish and leaves you wanting more, rather than feeling overwhelmed by density.Guy Davies, Wine Team

Very dark and serious on the nose, with minerality this is typically Cornas. Savoury and structured on the palate, this is tannic but very well-integrated. There's plenty of fruit to balance the structure. Quite a bit going on, a very interesting wine.Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager

Damien has been doing a lot of work in Cornas and has singled out this plot just to the south of the village for his special attention. They call the decomposed granite ‘gore’ in these parts, for reasons which are not immediately apparent, but it certainly underwrites the power of the wine, which will have had 14 months in barrel when the time comes for it to be bottled.Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Ferreton’s renaissance continues apace; Chapoutier ownership has in no way dulled its distinctive voice and in Damien Brissett it has a world-class winemaker. With such prestigious vineyards on the hill of Hermitage (and elsewhere) Ferraton is careful to manage the distinction between its owned vines and those worked in partnership as a high-class négoçiant. Whilst we are drawn, somewhat inevitably, towards the former, as our selection confirms, there is no denying the excellent quality of the entire range.

The vines for this wine are located mainly in the lieux-dits of Chaillot and Les Reynards. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured in cask for 18 months. Stylish and feminine, the wine has a high-toned dark fruit and plush, expensive tannins; the perfume is memorable as with all great wines from this oft misunderstood appellation.Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.

Pierre’s new joint-venture with Stéphane Robert from Domaine du Tunnel exploits well-appointed terroir at the St Péray end of the appellation. The quality of the raw materials allied to the cerebral nature of the winemaker have conspired to make something rather special here, with dark earthy fruits framed by old-vine tannins and a mineral acidity; a great success. Drink 2012-2018.

Old vines inherited from Marcel Juge and located on the mid-Coteaux above the village. This is an earthy, gamey, smoky style of Cornas wines rustic tannins and with plentiful notes of white chocolate, truffles and blackberries.

Pierre describes the 2011 vintage as complicated, ironically as a result of the warm spring, which advanced the cycle so much that it set things out of kilter for the more normal temperatures at other times during the season. Nonetheless, he is satisfied with the results. He detects equilibrium, a ‘Golden Mean’ perhaps, which happily combines elegance and power, its higher acidity making these wines very food-friendly. Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

A very late plot, understandably given its imperious 300-metre location, Les Eygats is located on steep slopes of decomposed granite high above the village of Cornas. Damien Brisset is delighted with the results in 2013, pure and profound being the words he uses, which are pretty similar in English. Ageing for 14 months sees 10 percent new oak, but all the vitality in the wine comes from the sheer quality of the Syrah grapes.Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.

A streamlined Cornas, with tension as well as a wealth of fine fruit – nothing at all overdone or out of kilter like some wines from this area which can be just too dense. South facing vines keeping their cool due to their high altitude seems to be the trick – a fine Cornas from one of Hermitage’s lesser-known lights and terrific value too.Tom Cave, Cellar Plan Manager

From the named lieu-dit to the north of the named village, this is a worthy illustration of both the skill of the winemaker and the renaissance of Cornas in general. Herbal and rich, with hints of jambon cru and liqueur-steeped cherry, Les Eygats marries sweet and savoury, Carnival and Lent, with effortless aplomb.Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Ferraton is owned by Chapoutier, but run as an autonomous entity. For a long time it seemed to underperform, almost as if shocked in the headlights of the energetic charisma of its benefactor. The potential of the vineyards, some of which are located on the very best sites on the Hill of Hermitage, has never been disputed. Now, with Bordelais winemaker Damien Brisset firmly in control, one begins to see, at last, the realisation of potential. I am pleased to have ‘stuck with’ them over the years, as the maturing vintages seldom fail to please and the quality of the current vintage gets better and better.

The steep vines here are located in Patou, Les Mazards and Saumon and their age runs the gamut from old-ish (35 years) to very old indeed (100 years). The grapes are mainly destemmed and the wine is a superb illustration of all that is great in Cornas; austere, yet generous, full-bodied and tannic, yet with a latent sweetness which will come to the fore over a number of years and provide a perfect contrast to burgeoning savoury characteristics.Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

It makes a nice change to state that a winery is far from state-of-the-art; M Paris makes wine in the chaotic splendour behind a large but only half-built house in the backstreets of Cornas; so far, so unpromising. His wines, however, are sublime and it should come as no surprise that he has now joined the first rank of Cornas producers. This is more than appropriate and very good news for us, as we bought the wines from his Geynale vineyard when it was owned by his uncle Robert Michel, and have always considered it to be among the very best plots in the village. The 2013 Cornas Granit 60 Vielles Vignes is serious stuff. Inky colored and loaded with cassis, black raspberry, violets and licorice, it has beautiful acidity in its full-bodied, ripe, polished style. It has rock-solid mid-palate concentrated, and terrific length, so give it a handful of years in the cellar and drink bottles through 2025. Like all of Paris’s Cornas releases, it sees only older barrels.Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Les Eygats is located on the steep granitic slopes just to the north of the village of Cornas. Damien has captured the distinctive profile of classic Cornas, with high-toned floral notes sitting comfortably with the more savoury almost rustic mid-palate. Assertive tannins, as one would expect, but very precise and fine on the finish, which one maybe would not expect; a peacock’s tail of elegance.Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

The re-emergence of Ferraton as a great producer has taken awhile, and for a year or so I felt that the quality of the wines actually merited greater plaudits than those hitherto garnered. That changed with the 2009s when a commentator who shall remain nameless, offered lavish praise, a praise which I suspect is equally merited with the excellent range of 2010s.Damien Brisset has some very well located vines and is now exploiting their potential with real skill.

The new chai has allowed more scope for separating the parcels in 2014, and the added rigour in the selection process is demonstrated by a finely drawn assemblage, its rounded generous fruit buttressed by very poised yet persistent tannins and a herbal backdrop. Drink 2018-2024. Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer

This wine is sourced from 15 mini-parcels, all granitic and all Syrah, needless to say. The average age of the vines is over 50 years and the ageing, in used barrels, which are marginally younger than those for the St Joseph, lasts for 14 months. The house style is plush and velvety but behind this, as with all the best Cornas, there is something a little rawer, more ‘sauvage’ as they like to say locally, as in a very noble sauvage it transpires.Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. The inky colored 2013 Cornas is another stunner from this estate. Classic Cornas in its mineral-drenched dark fruits, leather, peppery herbs and gaminess, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and chewy, with ripe tannin. It has a seamlessness and elegance to it that should allow it to drink nicely on releases, but it will have 10-15 years of longevity.Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Stéphane now farms 15 parcels of Cornas, varying in size from small to very small to very small indeed. Nonetheless they run the stylistic gamut, from 50-year-old vines high on the plateau to steeper hillside plots to the south of the village. The decision on whether or not to de-stem is made parcel by parcel and the wine is matured in barriques of four years of age, bought from our mutual friends at Chateau la Nerthe. Sweet and savoury notes vie for attention, teasing the palate with an odd osmotic rapport; the 2012 has distinctive notes of cocoa and bay, supported by liquorice, black pepper and game.Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Stéphane Robert is pithy when describing the 2012 vintage; ‘tout est bon....pas de soucis’. It’s hard to argue with such an analysis, especially when tasting his wines. The Roberts have built a wonderful chalet-like house with panoramic views of Cornas and beyond that Valance. It is close to the ruins of the eponymous railway tunnel, where they plan to build some kind of entertainment suite, although how they plan to do this is not quite clear. Their winery remains in the heart of St Peray and their wines are among the finest in the region.

The famous Geynale site is located immediately above the village in the Reynards commune, its vines chiselled into unadulterated granite, dating from 1910. Dark fruit and massive monolithic tannins hold sway and will do so for quite some time. Then the sweet and the savoury will start to do battle.Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

The youthful nephew of Berry Bros. & Rudd favourite Robert Michel, who is now retired, is taking on something of an eminence grise persona himself these days, running the Syndicate of Cornas with great skill. It helps to have such fine vineyards of course, many of them inherited. 2011 he views as a less tannic but more aromatic vintage than 2010, to his liking in other words, as he often states that aromatic harmony is the key to a great Cornas.

This 100-year-old plot from the Reyard lieu-dit has been a long-standing Berry Bros. & Rudd favourite; if anything the efforts of the nephew now exceed those of the uncle; be that as it may, the wine is now definitely one of the very best in this fashionable appellation. Inky black, with haunting aromas of violet and woodsmoke, the wine is a perfect paradigm of powerful precision and poised potential.Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

It makes a nice change to state that a winery is far from state-of-the-art; M Paris makes wine in the chaotic splendour behind a large but only half-built house in the backstreets of Cornas; so far, so unpromising. His wines, however, are sublime and it should come as no surprise that he has now joined the first rank of Cornas producers. This is more than appropriate and very good news for us, as we bought the wines from his Geynale vineyard when it was owned by his uncle Robert Michel, and have always considered it to be among the very best plots in the village. The 2013 Cornas la Geynale is slightly more perfumed and wild than the Granit 60, with terrific black pepper, smoked earth, leather, meat and lots of black currant fruit. While from a cooler vintage, it doesn’t lack for stuffing and has full-bodied richness, a layered, ripe texture and sweet tannin. It’s another rocking wine from this young vigneron who’s at the top of his game.Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

These 80-year-old vines are located in the Mazards commune, just to the north of the village. The aging is for 18 months this time, and this time 20% of the casks are new. The wine exhibits ripe, resonant fruit, pure and very fine with a savoury backdrop, and a long, appropriately tannic finish.Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Alain Voge is one of the doyens of Cornas. He was unwell when I last visited in November, so we all wish him well. His long-standing and highly able partner Albéric de Mazoyer has kept the ship afloat with his customary brilliance and 2012 looks brilliant indeed, especially at the top end of this range. He praises the vintage for its charm and concentration, citing it as a year that is low on yield, high on aromatics and very high on quality.

The wine of Charlemagne is near opaque, the fruits of 100-year-old vines that have enjoyed a mere 70 days of cuvaison. We encounter black fruits, appropriately enough, seasoned by black pepper, beef stock and heady spice. Not one for the fish course, in all probability.Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. The 2013 Cornas Vin Noir is also medium to full-bodied, with an iron, meaty, bloody quality to go with plenty of tannin. Coming from three separate parcels and 100-year-old vines, it too is classic Cornas to drink over the coming decade or more.Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

A south-facing granitic single vineyard, protected by cedar and oak trees, La Louvée (‘she-wolf’, this one means) is aged for 24 months and is a beautifully aromatic wine, with notes of raspberry, blueberry and violets evidenced. The palate is silky and extremely long.

The decomposed granite slopes of Les Mazards, rather alarmingly known locally as ‘gore’, are the source of this famous cuvée. Twenty-five percent of stems are added to the vat for a cuvaison of four weeks, then 24 months in cask, 20 percent of which are new. There is no Vieilles Fontaines this year, so all the grapes have gone into the Vieilles Vignes, which repays the compliment and is suitably magisterial and complex. Fresh and yet imperiously powerful, this wine will be one for the long, longer and longest terms.Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.

Controversial in the best sense of the word, Jean Luc Colombo represents the modernist generation of winemakers / consulting oenologists in the Rhone. The quality of this cuvee suggests that the wines of Cornas are in safe hands.

The supple 2010 Cornas offers attractive new oak in its straightforward bouquet of black cherries and roasted nuts, low acidity, and a tasty, chunky feel.

A south-facing granitic single vineyard, protected by cedar and oak trees, La Louvée (‘she-wolf’, this one means) is aged for 24 months and is a beautifully aromatic wine, with notes of raspberry, blueberry and violets evidenced. The palate for this Cornas wine is silky and extremely long.

Yves’ passion and energy is well-known and it was warming to see his reaction to our own enthusiasm for this cuvée, which was one we had not planned to buy. Like the best Cornas, it has a ‘lift’ to it with plenty of fresh, generous fruit. Easy on the ‘abv’ too, a really fine example of a Cornas that will develop very well mid-term.Tom Cave - Cellar Plan Manager

More masculine, study and robust, the Vieilles Vignes cuvée is far closer to most people’s idea of a typical Cornas. Meaty, rich and tannic, this is definitely a keeper and the age of its vines vary from 25 to 90-yearsold. Powerful and glorious, it is sourced from plots in Chaillot, Les Mezards and Les Reynards.Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Clape, Michel, Juge, Voge… There is a hypnotic monosyllabic magic to some of the great names of Cornas in days of yore and both Voge and Clape continue to fly the flag and do so with great aplomb. Fiercely traditional and yet disarmingly modern, these wines provide the key to the reputation of the Cornas that was and the outstanding quality of the Cornas that is now.

At 40 years of age, these vines approach middle age with real dignity. Their aspect is precipitous by anyone’s standards and the wine’s floral aromatics belie the depth and power of its core. Drink 2012-2018.