At the bottom, I discover a tent has been erected in a meadow full of flowers; here relief and fatigue combine with hunger to make this the most delicious packed lunch of my life. I am caked in sweat, sunblock and dust, burnt by the ferocious sun and whipped by the rising wind. This wilderness of rock and light has not been tamed Andrew Harvey, poet Later in my stay, on one rose-gold evening, I cycle down from the 16th-century monastery and fort at Basgo, reaching the banks of the Indus river. Having been told the water was exceptionally cold for the time of year, I fake disappointment. Im happy to admire the river without travelling on it or in it. As I twist and turn down the mountain on my hired bike, the only other traffic on the roads through the villages and fields is a single placid-looking dzo, a cross between a yak and a cow. However, once I reach the route through the army encampment, the number of vehicles steps up a notch, mostly army vans hooting with amusement at the sight of a middle-aged woman teetering along on a bike. Ladakhs strategic importance means over 30 per cent of the Indian army is stationed here, in dusty, unlovable camps spread across the plains. The best hotels in India While much has not changed since Andrew Harvey visited, I am happy to find that his dire words about the state of hotels for tourists are thoroughly outdated. London-based Black Tomato provided invaluable assistance with its local partner, Shakti. Two years ago, the owners of Shakti had the clever idea of renovating village houses in partnership with family owners to create a network of homestays for tourists.