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AW100KD2 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for AW100KD2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

The Lid Lock Assembly came super fast! The install would have been flawless, but the "pre-drilled" holes on the new Lid Lock Assembly were way to small. We found that out after we had reconnected the wires and gotten it into place. Aside from that small set back, the install went great! This repair is definitey not one that you would need to pay a repair person to do!

FIRST I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL HELD BY FOUR SCREWS AT REAR OF PANEL, PULLING THE PANEL FOWARD AND UP. THEN DISCONNECTED THE POWER AND WATER CONNECTIONS. THEN I REMOVED THE TWO SCREWS HOLDING THE FLOW VALVE TO THE WASHER REAR PANEL,PULLED THE VALVE FOWARD ,REMOVED THE TWO ELECTRIC CONNECTORS, PINCHED THE WATER CLAMP WITH PLIERS AND REMOVED THE WATER CONNECTION TO THE VALVE. THEN REPLACED WITH THE NEW VALVE FOLLOWED THE ABOVE STEPS IN REVERSE ORDER, FINISHING UP BY RE PLACING THE WATER CONNECTIONS AND POWER. THEN CHECKED FO PROPER REPLACENENT AND LEAKS BEFORE REPLACING TOP PANEL.

removed front body panel (2 screws at bottom and pulled down panel), then used pliers to squeeze pinch clamps and pull back the two hoses off the pump. then removed the two pump clips that secure the pump in place and used screw driver to gently pry the old pump off the motor shaft, under that was the rubber pump slinger which was pulled off the motor shaft. The next step was to sand the rust off the motor shaft and apply some vasoline to lubricate the shaft and install the new pump slinger and pump on the motor shaft,put the pump clips back on and push the hoses on the new pump and slide the pinch clamps back into place, run test to check for leaks then re-install the front body panel.

The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new spring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now.

the belt was all worn out , it make a lot of noise

i took out the two back screws lift the top.took the two bottom front screws , lifted andtook off the front panel.took off the old belt an intall the new one in a circular motion put the panel and top back on and done.

Removing the piece above the tub gasket was very difficult. A lot of hammer and chisel work.15 year old machine. A lot of calcium build up around the shaft. I used a screw driver as a chisel and a hammer. Carefully removed the metal around the shaft to get to the tub seal.Once I got to the tub seal it was easy. Remove the old rubber stops. There were a few pieces. Then sealed it back up with the oil that came with the PartSelect Kit and put it back together. Works great now. No more LEAKS! Yippy.

first removed the 2 screws disconected the terminals, installed new switch connected wires back and test washer and it worked like new, i put a Jumper to get the washer to work while i got the parts. Also i received the parts in 24 hrs. Thank You.

Small water leak around front of machine and clothes would not spin dry.

Removed the 2 screws that hold the front panel on and slid the panel down to remove it, after first lifting the top panel and supporting it in the upright position out of the way. popped the two clips that hold the pump on, and used the pliers to remove the hose clamps on the pump. the pump was rusted to the motor shaft, so I had to use some force to pry it off of the motor. then i had to use some sandpaper to clean the rust off of the motor shaft. slid the new pump on and secured the hoses and hold down clips. then pushed the belt tensioner in and replaced the belt. the machine is like new again.

Happened to slam the lid by mistake and the washer started spinning. Recognized the lid lock was working haphazzardly. Also, there was a burning type odor coming from the switch. So I lifted the lid top and disconnected the switch from the lid by unscrewing 2 screws and 4 wires. When I received the new switch, I reinstalled it with 2 screws and reconnected the 4 wires.

water continued to flow into machine during spin cycle

After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.