Salmon is a ubiquitous fish, seen in every fish store and on every restaurant menu. However, if you spend a bit more money and are very picky about quality, salmon can be elevated to a precious protein. Ask your fishmonger to procure salmon that is wild caught and in season, such as Chinook or Sockeye. Almost all East Coast salmon is farmed and basically flavorless. If you combine the wild salmon with the flavors of a martini, well, that is all that needs to be said.

1. Season the salmon with ¼ teaspoon of the salt and a pinch of black pepper.

2. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Place the salmon, skin side up, in the pan and sauté for about 3 minutes. Carefully flip the salmon and cook 2 to 3 minutes more, until the center is still nice and pink (for medium-rare). Transfer the salmon to a warmed platter.

3. Pour off the fat from the pan. Over low heat, deglaze the pan with the vermouth, then add the veal stock and gin. Raise the heat to medium-high and add the olives, the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and the white pepper. Let the sauce simmer for about 2 minutes, until slightly reduced. Add butter. Taste and add more salt and pepper as needed. Pour the sauce over the salmon and serve.

Note: Nunn’s cookbook includes a recipe for homemade veal stock, which she says adds a richness and mouth feel that cannot be substituted. If you do not make veal stock, then buy a high-quality demi-glace such as D’Artagnan, available by mail order or at dartagnan.com.