Pauillac in California

HEALDSBURG, California — It has been more than four decades since Tom Jordan decided to bring Bordeaux to California. The vision he expressed with the opening of Jordan Vineyard & Winery, on the outskirts of the village of Healdsburg in the Alexander Valley wine-growing region, was a Bordeaux-style chateau that would produce refined cabernet sauvignon to rival those from the great estates of Bordeaux.

He was looking for exceptional flavor and complexity combined with elegance and restraint. Connoisseurs of Bordeaux get that. And Jordan's many fans over the past 40 years get it, too.

For one thing, the early vintages of Jordan were aged five years prior to release, time enough to subdue the strong, youthful tannins and make the Jordan cabernet supple and enjoyable upon release. The goal was to produce cabernet sauvignon with balance and finesse, and release it when it was ready to drink. Jordan cabernet sauvignon has been embraced and highly acclaimed since its first release in the 1970s.

Jordan has evolved over the past 40 years and is better than ever today. I sat down with longtime winemaker Rob Davis for a bit of perspective and was pleasantly surprised to taste samples of the 1995, 2005 and 2015 Jordan cabernets.

Alongside the cabs, we tasted identical vintages of the great Bordeaux Second Growth, Pichon Baron, for comparison.

"The inspiration for Jordan was always Pauillac," said Davis. "The model, in my mind, was always Pichon Baron. Hopefully today you can see the evolution of Jordan estate and the comparison to Pichon Baron."

Pauillac is home to three of the five First Growths of Bordeaux: Latour, Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild. The dominant grape in the region is cabernet sauvignon. For many collectors of classified-growth Bordeaux, Pauillac is hallowed ground. Though Jordan Winery generally includes three to four other Bordeaux grape varieties, it is cabernet sauvignon-dominant and thus labeled cabernet sauvignon, even though it meets the requirements for a Bordeaux-style blend.

The tasting was instructive. The 1995 vintage from both Jordan and Pichon Baron were in excellent condition, and each exhibited primary fruit aromas of cassis and black cherry. There were similarities in the secondary aromas that come with age, such as a subtle note of cedar and graphite (often called lead pencil) and hints of leather and black tea. Both wines had plenty of life left, though the Jordan offered more primary fruit character.

The 2005 vintage from each estate was loaded with primary fruit, including notes of red currant, blackberry and spice. The similarity was stunning.

The 2015s were clearly great successes for both Pichon Baron (2015 was a stupendous vintage in Bordeaux) and Jordan, and both wines are destined for a long life. This was the first vintage in Jordan's transition from a blend of French and American oak cooperage to 100 percent French oak.

The change is a nuance, and if anything, fans of Jordan might notice that the 2015 has a more pronounced spice profile than previous vintages. The other big change for Jordan involves vineyard sourcing outside the estate, which started about a decade ago after Tom Jordan turned over the reins to his son, John Jordan.

"He has let me source fruit where I can find the best fruit, even if it's not on our estate," said Davis. "2010 was when I started to notice a difference in the depth of the wine. Then 2012 came along. Then the 2013 had still more (depth). And then the 2014 blew me away."

Suffice it to say, Davis is quite pleased with the 2015 as well.

If you've never tasted a Jordan cabernet, be forewarned: It won't be a big, ripe California fruit bomb. What you will find instead is a little bit of Pauillac style and finesse in a beautiful California cab.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Georges Duboeuf 2017 Pinot Noir, Pays d'Oc IGP, France ($11.99) — The Duboeuf pinot noir from the south of France won't remind you of premier cru red Burgundy, but at 12 bucks it doesn't have to. In a category that is routinely priced between $40 and $200, there is a dearth of drinkable pinot at a budget price. The 2017 Duboeuf is light and fleshy, showing an attractive floral note and dark cherry fruit. The palate is supple and juicy, and the ultimate pleasure is remarkable for the price. Rating: 85.

Tasting Notes

Sonoma-Cutrer 2014 Grand Cuvee, Russian River Valley ($43) — The folks who started out with the mission of making world-class chardonnay in the Russian River Valley — and, more recently, top-notch pinot noir — are now making inroads into the sparkling wine category. The Grand Cuvee is a blend of 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir, resulting in a complex brut-style bubbly that exhibits notes of red raspberry, lemon oil and apple, with a touch of brioche that developed as it aged. Fresh and elegant, it is a welcome addition to the world of California sparkling wine. Rating: 93.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. Email Robert at [email protected]