In the two decades since the Straus Dairy in Marshall was the first in the West to become certified organic, most others in the region have followed, creating a cash cow that gets bigger every year.

With 25 of Marin’s 29 dairies now organic, the value of organic milk production is soaring, rocketing 61 percent last year to $33.6 million for the milk product equivalent of about 12.6 million gallons.

At the same time, the value of conventional milk production in Marin plummeted 57 percent to $5.7 million in 2014.

Organic milk fetched $31 per “100 weight,” or 100 pounds, up from $30 the year before. Conventional milk brought dairies about $21 for the same quantity, up from $19.33.

Organic milk pioneer

Carlsen outlined Marin’s agricultural bounty for county supervisors during a presentation of his 2014 livestock and crop report.

In a nutshell: Livestock and farm production in Marin was valued at a record $101 million last year as agricultural goods generated $16 million or 19 percent more than the year before — thanks in large part to organic milk.

Albert Straus, 60-year-old CEO of the Straus Dairy and the Straus Family Creamery, said the 10 organic dairies that feed into his creamery benefit from thoughtful production, premium value and stable pricing that eliminate the “roller coaster” fluctuations in the monthly price of conventional milk.

The organic milk operation Straus launched on the family’s farm in West Marin 21 years ago was aimed at financial survival as well as creating a model for sustainable farming. Today, most dairies in Marin are on board.

“I’m feeling optimistic,” Straus said. “This is not just a niche we’ve created, but it’s the wave of the future,” he added. “I am proud of what we’ve accomplished.”

Grape value dips

The law of supply and demand played a key role in the organic milk boom, and may be behind a dip in the value of Marin’s wine grape crop as well.

The valuation of Marin’s wine crop dropped 20 percent to $703,000 for 325 tons last year, down from $874,000 for 306 tons. Harvested acres held steady at 175.

Pacheco Ranch Winery manager Herb Rowland, great-great grandson of Marin land grant and wine grape pioneer Ignacio Pacheco, said the drought curbs production on the 70-acre ranch since the vineyard depends on rain for irrigation. He figured his 5-acre vineyard will produce roughly 9.5 tons of grapes this season, down from 11.4 tons last year, due in large part to lack of water.

A number of factors including regional supply and demand may explain last year’s situation, in which the county’s 325-ton production of wine grapes exceeded the year before by 19 tons — but brought in $171,000 less.

“The fewer the grapes, the higher the price for them,” Rowland said, reciting a rule of thumb.

Other highlights of the county’s livestock and agricultural crop report include a 32 percent increase in cattle values to $20.4 million, reflecting herds totaling a combined 13,757 head, up from 13,056.

‘Robust’ sheep

The value of sheep remained about the same at $1.9 million, while the number of animals dipped from 10,575 to 10,111, reflecting a market increasingly hungry for lamb. “Sheep are one of the most robust of our industries,” Carlsen said, adding animals valued at about $100 a head a few years ago now are valued at $196.

Poultry and eggs posted a gross value of $11.9 million, down from $12.3 million.

Aquaculture checked in with a $10.6 million valuation, almost double the year before largely because of more complete harvest data from the state Department of Fish and Wildlife. The 92 percent increase in shellfish value “should be viewed as an increase in data accuracy, not necessarily an increase in production,” according to the annual report.

Cash crops

Hay production generated $753,000 for 3,923 tons — up from $737,000 for 4,368 tons the year before. The drought economy priced hay at $192 a ton last year, and 1,712 acres were harvested, up from $168 a ton and 1,600 acres.

Silage also rose in value, with its price going from $38 a ton to $45 a ton. The silage crop was valued at $637,000 for 14,165 tons, up from $576,000 for 14,432 tons. In addition, 154,000 acres of harvested pasture land yielded about $9.3 million at $60 a ton, up from $8.5 million at $55 a ton.

Marin’s fruit and vegetable crops were valued at $5 million, up 13 percent from $4.4 million, even though harvested land totaled 424 acres, down from 906 acres in light of factors including drought. All farms were organic.

Supervisor Steve Kinsey said the value of going organic comes as no surprise.

“Marin’s agricultural producers are faring better than most because most of them have invested in operating organically and that has proven to be a wise investment,” he said. “In addition, moving from commodity to value-added products like cheese, premium cuts of meat, and specialty row crops has brought them gains in spite of the natural challenges that pests and the drought present.”

Kinsey noted the Board of Supervisors has been an enthusiastic cheerleader of agriculture. “Our board has made a keystone commitment to preserve our agriculture,” he said. “Protective zoning, regulatory relief, support from organizations like the Resource Conservation District and the Marin Agricultural Land Trust, and exceptional assistance from the agricultural commissioner and the University of California Agricultural Extension have all helped retain the vitality of our agriculture.”

Supervisor Katie Rice noted the county has adapted to changing conditions. “It’s really remarkable,” she said after reviewing Carlsen’s report.

And Supervisor Damon Connolly, speaking about leadership including the pioneering Straus Dairy, said the agricultural report “speaks well of the decision-making that went on early on in Marin.”