Made from high-temp Nylon and gold plated spring connectors, both included in the injection mould at the time when forming the connector. The XT60 ensures a solid high-amp connection, perfect for applications up to and beyond 65A constant.

The Nano-Nano board was designed to allow you to mount your Team BlackSheep Unify Pro Nano VTX in your stack for cleaner builds. This board includes holes that are compatible with (but not limited to) most receivers such as the FrSky XM+ and Team BlackSheep Crossfire Nano. Once the VTX is soldered into the cutout on the board, the breakout pads on the side allow for full access to your VTX.

If your camera uses 5V for power, you can solder your pigtail to the camera pads and allow the board to act as a pass through. After your VTX, camera, and receiver is installed, the 5V pad on the board will power all your components.

There are also two pads located on the side of the board to solder the button that's included with your Unify Nano. The button can be soldered top facing, side facing, or with wires to allow for access to the VTX from anywhere.

Note: If your receiver requires 3V, you will need to pull power from somewhere else. Do not solder in the 5V header if your receiver is not compatible. You can use the other plated through holes (1, 2, and ground) for your receiver still.

Xnova motors are made from the finest components available today and guaranteed for the highest levels of performance and efficiency. Each Xnova motor is 100% hand wound and guaranteed to perform. Be convinced by the results, not just datasheets.

XT60 SmokeStopper - Termed the SmokeStopper by RCgroups member mnemennth, this handy device could save you from damaging expensive electronic components

We've all been there... Working all day on a new build, you finally finish, you give your new beast one final look-over and don't see anything wrong. So you plug it in and TZZZT! SNAPP! POP! and instantly, your plans for new-found aerial bliss disappear literally in a puff of smoke.

You tear it down and find a blown ESC caused by a motor with a too-long screw into a winding or a little blob of solder that you SHOULD have caught before you put the new shrink-wrap on, but DIDN'T.

Now you have to tear it apart and replace the toasted ESC before you can even see if the motor is salvageable. You already know you're going to be ordering a new one shortly; the only difference is whether you're going have to wait for it to come in the post or if you ordered enough to have a spare and will need to replace it.