Gave up on the original goal of St. Jean Gully when we saw the debris field of rocks that had shot out of it. Changed plans to the North Slope and we weren't disappointed. Climbed a 35-40 degree snow hill for about 750' to gain the north slope, little more than a class 2 like the route description states, but had an axe and crampons so it was no problem. Great view on top, thunder storms had us running off the ridge in the early afternoon.

Ascended the N. slope route via the Red Lake approach. Took some very humbling turns on my splitboard in highly variable snow conditions below the Split-Prater saddle...glad I had the (dis)pleasure of hauling it all the way to 13K.

7500 feet in one day... a new personal record - the climb was wonderful though - those cliffs when you first hit the ridge are wicked... and the split part of the mountain up top is wild - I think I am running out of easy 14ers, hmmm...

Climbed Northeast Arete (IV, 5.8) with Pavel on a perfect summer day. 15 long pitches (150'+) and one rappel with a few memorable spots, abundance of loose rock (although, not enough to make it disgusting) and wicked knife edges. Existing beta was useless; we pretty much found our own way which included a 5.10 pitch. 11.5 hours from the route start to the summit ridge. Descended in the dark for a 19 hour camp to camp marathon.

Many props to the late great Galen Rowell for soloing this route on his FA. There is no way in the world I'd attempt something like this unroped.

First trip back into the mountains after surgery to repair a broken ankle 21 weeks earlier ... thus this trip worked me, on of the hardest times I've had in the mountains. Hot weather didn't help - +100degF at trail head. Climbed with Ken T. Bottom line = a safe and successful 14'er summit.

We camped near the lake and on the summit day we departed quite early around 4:00 am. By 7:30 am we already summited the peak and soon (around 9 :00 am ) safely returned to the base camp. It was nice, clear day.