30 replies so far

You certainly can get snipe from a jointer, but usually you need to do something wrong – like not have it supported as it goes through.

Are you talking about edge joints – joining two boards edge to edge flat to make a wider board?

I think you will find that putting both edges in your vice side by side and using your plane on both of them at the same time will get you the best joint, but it takes a bit of technique to use that plane, and of course a really sharp edge on the blade. You can also “spring” the joint a bit by planing the middle a touch more than the end.

If you’re edge jointing, clamp the pieces together like a closed book, then plane the combined edge with your No. 5 hand plane. When you “open the book” you’ll have a perfect edge. Using this method, it doesn’t matter if you’re off angle, because the two edges together will mate into a 90 degree joint.

You’re going to get a wavy surface with a router, even more so than a machine jointer. That’s just the nature of a spinning bit. But you can use the same trick of bookmatching the boards with a router & straightedge to edge joint, assuming your router bit is long enough.

For that matter, bookmatching the pieces on a machine jointer is a standard way to edge joint. But the absolute best surface is achieved with a hand plane.

My advice would be, before you buy another tool, learn to sharpen your blade(s). Sharp tools are safer and easier to use. Look up Paul Sellers and his sharpening technique. It’s fast and pretty simple. Once you take a sharp plane blade to a piece of wood, you’ll get it.

James… Snipe is minimal to non existent on my jointer. I think watching the grain is the key whether jointing by hand or maching. I’ve only used it on very tightly grained hard maple, and walnut, but with good (and easily attained) results. I watched a video, read a blog, which detailed some finer points about reading the grain. (Rays, more so than grain) I think it was Schwartz. Very helpful.

Read up on how to set up your jointer, as well as things to look out for. There are a gazillion threads here covering jointers. While you’re stalking Craigslist is a good time to learn. I think I benefitted greatly having read up about problems with setting knives, infeed and out feed coplanar issues, maintenance of tables…. Etc…

I third what shampeon said. My jointer needs to have blades sharpened, as does my thickness planer. My hand planes were purchased from a fellow LJ (http://lumberjocks.com/MarkE) who had them in top working condition when I received them. They are still sharp, and I am still learning how to use them properly.

Sharpening.

One word that covers the broadest scope of planing, both by hand and machine. It’s the biggest reason my TP is performing poorly, and my jointer knives have some dings as well. I need to get serious about learning sharpening. Every project comes to a screeching halt until sharpness returns to the scene. Of course you can pay someone else, or replace knives and blades. Pricey.