Chlorinated water contains dissolved chlorine that off-gases more readily at warmer temperatures. The quickest and greatest route of exposure to chlorine gas is through inhalation typically occurring during showering and bathing. Chlorine can irritate skin and eyes, as well as, aggravate asthma, eczema and psoriasis. Purahome offers shower filters that are very effective at reducing your exposure to chlorine while showering for healthier, younger looking skin and softer, dandruff-free hair.

While your shower filter works very well to reduce chlorine, it cannot reduce your exposure to other waterborne contaminants including chlorine- disinfection by-products, heavy metals and other volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Some shower filters are advertised as being able to remove VOCs from water, but we do not know of any research that would indicate that a shower filter is capable of doing so. For this reason, we recommend whole home systems that reduce VOCs in addition to chlorine to provide you and your family with the healthiest showers and baths possible.

There is no small, easy-to-use, filter specific for your bath that we are currently aware of. The most inexpensive approach would be to install a whole home carbon-based filter that will typically require an annual filter change.

AQUASPACE CARAFES

No! If you don’t have enough space in your fridge to accommodate the height of your carafe and filter, simply remove the filter and cap the bottom. Your filter can now sit on your counter top and you don’t have to worry about any water leaking out and making a mess on your counter.

It is important to backwash your filter regularly at least twice a week. In order to do so, the filter must be held firmly against your kitchen tap, upside down, during the backwash procedure. If this does not improve water flow, and the filter is still relatively new, poke 1-2 holes per slot in the TOP of the filter with a sewing needle. Then, try backwashing once more. If your filter has been used for close to its rated volume, and backwashing is no-longer restoring water flow, it likely needs to be changed.

As long as the carafe filter takes 20 seconds or more to completely empty into the pitcher, then your water is being effectively filtered according to Aquaspace standards. For example, if your filter takes 15 seconds to empty, many of the toxins are still being filtered, but not all.

It is possible that the water has been sitting in the carafe/filter for too long. If the carafe is stored in the fridge, the water can absorb lingering odours from food. A good idea is to try and drink or use your filtered water in one day or less.

If your filter has been used for close to its rated volume, and your water has just been freshly filtered and still has an odour or taste, it definitely needs to be changed.

Aquaspace is a very unique media and unlike simple carbon, Aquaspace media contains granules in a variety of sizes, this is part of the patent that ensures high-end filtration performance. Because of this, especially after shipping, if a filter is new and has not been thoroughly backwashed prior to first use, it is common for Aquaspace media to escape. This will decrease with use/time. In the event you do ingest Aquaspace media, we consider it a blessing in disguise as it will help adsorb heavy metals in your body before elimination.

If you notice a pinkish colour and/or a build-up of slime on the top of your carafe filter, it is most likely bacterial growth. These types of bacteria are non-pathogenic and rarely cause a normal, healthy adult to fall ill. However, it is important that your filter be cleaned and sanitized at this time.

The carafe/pitcher can be cleaned like any other dish, just be sure to rinse any soap residue. To get rid of mineral build-up, use vinegar and the minerals should readily dissolve. To clean the filter housing, use a damp paper towel to wipe clean.

If the top lid of the Ion Carafe does not sit securely, the blue hopper has been inserted too far down into the pitcher. Simply pull out the blue hopper and re-install it without pushing it down as deep (you should hear a click).

As per the instruction manual that comes with the Ion Carafe, wait until all of the water has filtered into the bottom of the carafe before pouring. Unlike a Brita filter that is very porous and easily lets water through, Aquaspace media is compact and somewhat resists water flow. As the carafe fills with filtered water, it becomes more difficult for the unfiltered water to pass through the filter. If this happens, simply fill the hopper with less water.

The filters to our alkalizing carafes contain two technologies: Aquaspace filtration media, as well as, alkalizing media. To make room for the alkalizing media in the filter, we’ve had to take some Aquaspace out. Thus, the alkalizing filter, with half as much Aquaspace filtration media, lasts half the amount of time as the regular Aquaspace filter. This is why the alkalizing filter can last up to 6 months, whereas the regular Aquaspace filter can last up to a year.

Though the alkalizing filter does not last as long as the regular Aquaspace filter, it is higher in price because the alkalizing media is more expensive to produce than Aquaspace media.

The type of unit you have will determine where to put or how to use your microclustering device.

If you have the Aquatomic 5000, you can place your magnets along the main water supply pipe to your home. That way, every tap in your home will provide microclustered water.

If you have the Aquatomic 1000, your magnets are attached to an elastic band that can be placed around any drinking bottle or water container of a similar size. If you have a drinking system, your AT1000 can also be placed around one of the filter sumps, that way the water coming out of your drinking system faucet will be microclustered. Because the magnets are attached to an elastic band, they are easily transferred between containers and drinking system, and portable.

If you have the Aquatomic 3500, your magnets are attached to a large elastic band. The AT3500 was specifically designed to fit around 5 gallon jugs and/or rain barrels.

If you have the Aqua Power Joint, you can put it where ever you like! You can choose to microcluster and vitalize the water for your whole home or at your drinking system only by wrapping the two silver threads around any pipe in your home. You can also leave it free standing and have it available to microcluster and vitalize any beverage or bowl of soup you prepare.

ALKALIZING WATER SYSTEMS

In general, this should not be a major problem with the alkaline water. However, based on pharmacokinetics and medication absorption, it is recommended to not take medications with the alkalized water and waiting either 30 minutes before or 2 hours after taking medications to consume alkalized water (drinking filtered naturally alkaline water (pH 7-8) with medications would be fine).

On the other hand, with a quick pubMed search; there might be added benefit for overall kidney function by consuming alkalized water, as alkalized water may help take pressure off of the kidneys to filter out any metabolic acidosis in the blood (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19527469).

COUNTER TOP SYSTEMS

Troubleshoot the system by removing the suspected fouled filter; it will depend on the type of odour, which filter to remove:

Earthy/swampy/musty smell = nanoceram, it has likely captured a colony of bacteria and upon decaying, an odour is present

Fishy smell = nitrate, if the nitrate media has dehydrated, a fishy smell may result (note: if you have an alkalizing filter, the water needs to be run and/or the filter needs to be used more often, simply running the water a little bit more should eliminate the fishy smell by lowering the pH)

Chemical smell = Aquaspace, if it’s nearing the end of the filter life, it needs to be replaced. If the filter is new, perhaps the system is experiencing air bubbles, which affects the taste. Use the unit for at least one more week, the air bubbles should dissipate and the water should taste better.

If the odour is no longer present with the suspected fouled filter removed, a new filter needs to be inserted/ordered.

Poor water flow could be due to sediment build-up in one of the filters, or especially in the case of the Aquaspacesaver, a result of Aquaspace media clogging the aerator, thereby restricting water flow. Always look at the age of the filter to provide an idea of whether or not it is the filters or the diverter causing the decreased flow.

When the water is shut off, air is free to expand in the housing. This does not happen with an installed unit as it is always under city water pressure so air cannot expand. When the air expands in a countertop, it slowly pushes out some filtered water in the housing through the open spigot. This happens in all countertops. In other words, the system is venting due to back pressure. Back pressure in the countertop will be higher when the pressure in the home is greater. It is also greater when filters become more loaded with contaminants. If the countertop housing then has no filters inside, back pressure would not exist. In order to be excellent at filtration, Aquaspace filters are tightly packed by design. This will add to the backpressure in a countertop. Cheap filters however do not filter well as they are not as tightly packed so they provide less back pressure.

We suggest if you experience backpressure, that you may use a pitcher to capture any filtered water that escapes from backpressure. Use this pitcher to pour from when you want a single glass of water.

Poor water flow could be due to sediment build-up in one of the filters. Always look at the age of the filter to provide an idea of whether or not it is the filters causing the decreased flow. If filters are only a few months old, the poor flow is likely to a restriction in a supply valve. For a saddle valve, try opening and closing the saddle valve repeatedly to see if flow is restored. For other valve types the valve likely needs to be replaced.

When a dual faucet is installed, the side providing alkalized water may at some point experience reduced flow. This is due to the higher pH of alkalized water and richness of calcium and magnesium in the water that may create scale over time. The cartridge/disc in the faucet with the alkalized water needs to be cleaned. If a rather sudden loss in flow occurs after a filter change, some sediment was lodged in to the cartridge/disc of the faucet during the flushing stage. Once again, it will need to be cleaned.

After a filter change, it is normal for your lines to have air in them. This air creates small bubbles in your drinking water that may appear as tiny particles and/or cloudiness. This should pass within a couple of days of using your drinking system following a filter change. The more you use your water system, the quicker the air will dissipate.

No, there is nothing wrong with your system. In fact, after a filter change, it is normal for your lines to have air in them, and if you have an alkalizing cartridge, you will experience even more air following a filter change.

When the alkalizing media is first wet, there will be some hydrogen gas produced and released into your lines. This air and gas can cause sputtering when you first turn on your faucet, especially in the morning. Frequent use and water flow through your filters will help clear your system of any air or gas more quickly. This too shall pass!

Troubleshoot the system by removing the suspected fouled filter; it will depend on the type of odour, which filter to remove:

Earthy/swampy/musty smell = nanoceram, it has likely captured a colony of bacteria and upon decaying, an odour is present

Fishy smell = nitrate, if the nitrate media has dehydrated, a fishy smell may result (note: if you have an alkalizing filter, the water needs to be run and/or the filter needs to be used more often, simply running the water a little bit more should eliminate the fishy smell by lowering the pH)

Chemical smell = Aquaspace, if it’s nearing the end of the filter life, it needs to be replaced. If the filter is new, perhaps the system is experiencing air bubbles, which affects the taste. Use the unit for at least one more week, the air bubbles should dissipate and the water should taste better.

If the odour is no longer present with the suspected fouled filter removed, a new filter needs to be inserted/ordered.

Where is the faucet leaking or dripping? If there is a slow drip coming out of the faucet spigot, this can be remedied by cleaning the ceramic disk inside the faucet and/or a set screw below the handle is tightened. If this does not work to stop the drip, you may wish to replace the faucet especially if it has been in use for several years. If there is a leak, it is usually in the connection to the faucet. If the connection is compression, a fitting such as the ferrule may need to be replaced. ONLY plastic ferrules are to be used on plastic tubing, a copper ferrule will cause a leak over time.

REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEMS

There are typically two or three reasons: 1) If the storage tank is heavy and very little water is coming out test the air pressure in your storage tank with a low reading pressure gauge (not a tire pressure gauge). Your tank should have 5-6 psi of pressure. If the pressure is too low the water in your tank will essentially remain in the tank and very little will come out. 2) If the storage tank is light, water is not getting into the storage tank. This is likely due to too much air pressure. Reduce the pressure to 5-6 psi. 3) If the tank pressure is 5-6 psi and very little water is coming out, it is quite likely the filters are clogged and need to be replaced and/or the membrane needs to be replaced.

It is likely that the R/O drain line has become partially clogged resulting in water not going to drain completely and escaping through the hole in the R/O faucet. This can be remedied by cleaning or blowing out the drain line tube.

In order to determine whether or not your membrane requires changing, you can bring us a sample of BOTH your untreated and RO treated water and we can measure the Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) in both. By comparing the two readings, we can determine the efficiency at which your current membrane is functioning. If your membrane efficiency is 70% or less for dissolved mineral reduction, it needs replacing. RO membranes that are still efficient after 5 years of use should be changed due to possible microbial growth.

Where is the faucet leaking or dripping? If there is a slow drip coming out of the faucet spigot, this can be remedied by cleaning the ceramic disk inside the faucet and/or a set screw below the handle is tightened. If this does not work to stop the drip, you may wish to replace the faucet especially if it has been in use for several years. If there is a leak, it is usually in the connection to the faucet. If the connection is compression, a fitting such as the ferrule may need to be replaced. ONLY plastic ferrules are to be used on plastic tubing, a copper ferrule will cause a leak over time.

WHOLE HOME WATER SYSTEMS

The best place to check first is the polish filter. You can take the polish filter out of its housing and place it in a clean bowl/container. Put the housing back together and if the water pressure is normal again, then the filter needs changing likely due to high sediment and/or microbial burden of your water. If the polish filter filters out bacteria, it is quite possible the filter has loaded from Regional watermain work creating excess in sediment. Keep in mind, the filter has protected your home. If the water pressure is still low, it is likely due to the large Aquaspace tank. You can place your Aquaspace tank on bypass and if the pressure increases, you might need to start a backwash cycle or change the media. In the case of a non-backwashing unit, the media may need changing.

Verify the age of the filter and the media to determine if it needs replacing. If not, determine the smell (i.e.: is it musty smelling, chemical taste?). This will help pinpoint the source of the odour. Musty smell likely indicates the polish or pre-filter needs changing. Chemical smell likely indicates media may not be working to full capacity and needs to be changed. Take the pre or polish filter out of its housing and place it in a clean bowl/container. Put the housing back together and if the water tastes better, the filter needs to be replaced.

The valve is pre-programmed for 2am unless otherwise changed by Purahome. During a backwash, the valve will display the sequence for a backwash instead of regular service mode. As well you will hear the water going to drain.

Purahome recommends shutting water off to the entire home. You can unplug the Polaris or Hague unit to prevent a backwash/depressurizing the lines. The Polaris Fleck valve will need to be reprogrammed for time upon return. If you want to keep the water on because a humidifier in the winter time needs to run, we highly recommend that someone checks the home periodically.

Trust science and not your taste buds. Most contaminants like lead and chloroform are odourless. Aquaspace will filter chlorine for many years (5-6) but you did not purchase Aquaspace for chlorine reduction. The media is designed for 2 years of effective filtration on the harder to filter contaminants such as lead and chloroform. We removed Aquaspace filters from a home with 2 people and a home with 7 people. We sent the filters to a lab where they were acid washed and the contaminants were then analyzed. You would think that the home with 7 people would have 3-4 times more contaminants but in fact both filters had the same amount of contaminants on their filters. Just like baking soda is constantly working 24 hours a day, whether you are home or not, to reduce odours in the fridge, the Aquaspace media works 24 hours a day in the same manner whether you are home or not.

Try to find visual evidence such as inside a humidifier. The mineral build up in the humidifier will be much easier to clean, it will also look different – more powdery instead of cake-like. The mineral deposits are not as rigid. You can do an experiment by taking a small amount of water treated with the antiscale and place it in a dark plate/bowl or a colourless plastic cup and let the water evaporate. Place the antiscale on bypass and let the water run for 5 minutes and collect another sample and compare the two after the water has evaporated.

UV WATER SYSTEMS

The UV will not work and water will not be treated so be careful. For extended power outage, you can have your water tested for bacteria. If you have a gas stove you can boil the water. Depending on your location, you can contact your municipality with a more accurate answer. But as a general rule, boiling water for at least 15 minutes will kill bacteria.

Many UV systems will beep to notify you that a year has gone by and that it is time to change your UV bulb. By pushing the reset button, the beeping will stop for a week and it will begin beeping again. You will be able to reset your UV Dynamics Water Disinfection System a total of three times before it stops beeping completely. It is highly recommended that you change your UV bulb within the month following the initial beeping to ensure adequate microbiological protection for your water. As long as the green light is lit, the UV should be functional.

Following a UV bulb change, specifically with the UV Dynamics Water Disinfection System, it is important to be holding the reset button simultaneously while plugging your unit back in. This will ensure that the ‘change bulb’ timer is reset for another calendar year. You will hear one long beep and then let go of the reset button. If you do not hold the reset button while you plug your unit back in, it will begin beeping again in a week’s time.

It is probable the timer needs to be reset. As long as the green light is lit, the UV should be functional. Proceed by holding the reset button simultaneously while plugging your unit back in. This will ensure that the ‘change bulb’ timer is reset for another one year increment. You will hear one long beep and then let go of the reset button. If your timer has now been reset after 8 months of use instead of 12 months, your UV bulb should still get changed at 12 months or in 4 months’ time for example. The beeper will not go off in 4 months so you need to make note of when the bulb is due for a change. Purahome will also contact you at this time for your notification. Once you change the bulb at the proper time, reset the timer as usual and now you will be warned in one year’s time.

Typically no, it depends on the hardness of your water. In general, the harder the water the greater the amount of water needed in the brine tank. An elevated water level is usually indicative of a sticky brine valve. A service call is required to either clean the brine valve or replace it as well as other valve parts.

A) First question - is the odour only in the hot water or is it also in the cold water? Please verify this at one of your taps that has two separate handles (VERY IMPORTANT – Do not use single faucet handle otherwise it will produce a false positive result). If it is in the cold water, the odour is coming from the well water and you need either a 20” carbon filter or a backwashing iron/sulfur system. If it is in the hot water only, the hot water tank has sulfur reducing bacteria and it needs to be sanitized.

B) To sanitize the hot water tank, pour half a cup of bleach into one of the whole home filter housings. Proceed to turn on the hot water at the bath tub. Run the water until you smell chlorine. At this point, continue to run the hot water starting with the farthest tap until you smell chlorine. Let the water sit for 4 hours. Do not use this water for bathing or drinking, after 4 hours flush out the chlorinated water. If necessary, repeat this procedure.

The first treatment starts with half a cup per cubic foot of softener resin. Manually regenerate the softener. After 2 hours, regenerate the softener a second time. The instructions on the ResCare bottle are very clear.

IN-LINE MEDIA FILTERS

First ask the customer how old their filter is. It is also important to consider whether or not the customer has a pet, if there is someone smoking in the home, if they live on a main or busy street and whether or not their windows are open. All of these introduce particles into the home contributing to dust. It is also likely that the filter is caked with particles resulting in a pressure drop and inhibiting air flow throughout the home which then allows particles to settle creating dust. Also, ask the customer if their furnace fan is set to “on” or “auto”. If fan is on “auto” suggest switching it to “on” to enable better air flow.

UV BULBS

Yes, it is very important that your UV or UVP bulb be changed once a year, regardless of whether or not it is still lit. Only certain frequencies given off by your UV or UVP bulb deactivate microbials. At around the 11th or 12th month, these frequencies greatly diminish in their ability to effectively kill bacteria and moulds (between 250-260 nm). After a year, your UV or UVP bulb is no longer able to produce light of the same wavelengths and thus, their ability to deactivate microbials has greatly diminished. In order to ensure that your UV or UVP bulb is providing you and your family with adequate microbiological protection, it is highly recommended that your bulb be replaced annually.

WHOLE HOME HEPAS

Your HEPA filter is made of very thin and tightly woven fibers of borosilicate glass allowing it to filter air particles down to 0.03 microns in size. These small particles become impacted into the HEPA. Over time, your HEPA filter will become loaded with particles and will severely restrict air flow. With less filtered air flow, the particle count in your air will increase, and therefore, not be as healthy. So, it is highly recommended that you change your HEPA filter typically every 3 years. For smokers and pet owners, the HEPA filter should be changed more regularly.

Constantly cleaning a pre-filter will result in the pre-filter becoming more porous and it no longer can do what it is supposed to do which is protect the more expensive filters below which filter smaller particles. HEPAs can last up to 3 years, prefilters need to be changed more often. Your prefilters are responsible for capturing the larger particles so that your HEPA can focus on capturing the tiniest of particles. Porous pre-filtration results in prematurely loading your HEPA filter.

No filter can prevent dust from appearing in a home as dust is constantly being created through human activity or external environment. Determine if your furnace fan is set to “on” or “auto”. If fan is on “auto” we suggest switching it to “on” to enable better air flow. If the fan is set to “on”, check to see how long your pre-filters and HEPA filters have been in use. If you are not sure, call Purahome for an accurate time-line. It is also important to consider whether or not you have a pet, and/or is someone smoking in the home, if you live on a main or busy street and whether or not your windows are open. All of these variables introduce particles into the home contributing to dust.

Each air purifier Purahome offers is either Energy Star rated or has a European motor, which is very energy efficient for its relative power. With the introduction of smart metres, we have seen a 3 cents per kWH increase in hydro. For a 100W rated air purifier such as the Epurair MA1C, the hydro charge in St. Catharines would be $102.71 for the whole year with the system running 24 hours daily. This is the exact cost of solely running the Epurair MA1C and it does not include the delivery charge that gets added onto everyone’s bill. Now that we know the cost of running a 100 W system, a simple ratio can be used to determine hydro costs for any portable or whole home purifier. For example, the Winix U300 is rated at 60 W and therefore uses 60% of the hydro the Epurair MA1 uses, so the annual cost would be $61.62. Likewise, the Abatement CAP600 is rated at 150W and will therefore cost 1.5 times as much as the Epurair MA1C for hydro as it covers a much larger area. The hydro cost to run the Abatement CAP600 for 1 year is $154.06.

If you are running your furnace fan on continuous, the bulk of the hydro charge will come from running the furnace fan on continuously. There is a science saying, “Nothing is free.” With your furnace fan on continuous, your air and home will be healthier and you will greatly reduce the amount of toxins that enter your bloodstream in the 30-35 pounds of air you breathe in daily. It is your choice if you do or do not want to run your furnace fan, it will cost more, but your air quality will greatly improve.

We recommend that even with your windows open, you leave your air purifier on. It is a good thing to ventilate by opening windows, especially newer homes because the home is air tight. With your air purifier running, you'll still be cleaning the air coming in, not at the same efficiency with closed windows, but dust will not accumulate as it otherwise would with open windows and the purifier switched to off. With your furnace fan on and the plasma generators running, they will actively seek out and deactivate many of the allergens coming in from open windows.

Purahome suggests leaving the furnace fan on at all times, combined with your air purifier and the plasma generators. You have final say, of course, but our research and experience shows that it is best to always leave them on for the best possible air and to maximize your investment and health. Some think it will save a little money by turning them off when the windows are open (not a significant savings) but we also know that some people forget to turn them back on when they close their windows and then their air is not being properly filtered.

PORTABLE HEPAS

First do you also have an ultrasonic humidifier? Ultrasonic humidifiers tend to create white mineral dust that deposits around the humidifier or near an air cleaner as the water evaporates. The proximity of the air cleaner to the wall should also be considered. It is ideal to have the portable HEPA a few inches away from a wall. This just helps to reduce static electricity which causes particles to stick near surfaces.

With the new Winix line, there is a filter reset button that needs to be depressed for 4-5 seconds. For the Winix signature series you use a paperclip or pin in the reset hole. In older models, the reset is under the front panel near the power button. In both cases, the reset button needs to be depressed for 4-5 seconds until it beeps. Likewise with Sharp models, there is a reset button on the unit or on the remote control. Unlike Winix, this button only needs to be pressed quickly to rest the filter.

There is a one page set of instructions in the IQ Air filter box. Use the “Menu” button to scroll through the Menu options until you come across “New Filter”. Press and hold “Enter” until “PreMax” appears on the display. Use the arrow key to select which filter to replace. Once you are at the desired filter, press Enter, and press Enter again to confirm. The LED light should change back to green for that filter.

See the diagram in the manual. With both hands rested on top of the air cleaner, use two thumbs to push away each handle one at a time. With one hand on each handle, simultaneously push apart the handles. This now elevates the IQ Air central housing from the pre-filter housing. While supporting the base of the unit, with your foot for example, slide out the bottom housing containing the pre-filter. Pull out the 4 tabs, remove and replace filter. Insert the 4 tabs back into position. Slide the filter housing into the IQ Air frame and once aligned, simultaneously push both arms back together to secure the entire housing into place. Be sure to reset the computer, see above question.

The odour is likely coming from the gas reduction filter. To verify, remove the gas and odour filter and run the air cleaner and observe if the odour still exists. Determine when the carbon/gas was filter last replaced (can also check with Purahome for an accurate date). Also, has anything new has been introduced into the home (like furniture, carpeting, essential oils – anything that we know that off-gases)? If yes, this explains the gases and odour filter has adsorbed these off-gases and the filter needs to be changed.

Constantly cleaning a pre-filter will result in the pre-filter becoming more porous and it no longer can do what it is supposed to do. The pre-filters role is to protect the more expensive filters below which filter smaller particles. Your HEPA filter is made of very thin and tightly woven fibers of borosilicate glass allowing it to filter air particles down to 0.03 microns in size. Therefore, HEPA filters cannot be washed or vacuumed.

Trust your nose. The V5 filter is always working regardless if the unit is on or off. This is similar to baking soda in the fridge that is constantly reducing odours because it is an adsorbent constantly exposed to the air. When the gas filter media is saturated, a smell is emitted. This is a sure sign it is time to change the filter.

CADR numbers represent what square feet is covered in 10 minutes whereas Purahome uses a 30 minute interval, knowing that this time interval results in very clean air for most customer needs. What CADR does not consider, is how effective the air purifier is at reducing particles, gases, odours, microbials, etc. whereas Purahome considers all of this.

On automatic, the fan speed is based on particles in the air relative to the moment in time when the unit is plugged in. This is not reflective of actual air quality in the home. If someone plugs their unit in when the air quality is very good in their home, the purifier will more quickly ramp up fan speed when on auto. Likewise, when the unit is plugged in and the air quality is very poor, the air purifier will not ramp up as quickly. Therefore we highly recommend running the unit by choosing a speed setting.

VENTILATORS

We know that if a home is too humid (i.e.: above 60% relative humidity), moulds and other funguses will grow. We also know that if a home is too dry (i.e.: below 35%), viruses thrive. So ideally, the humidity level of a home should sit around 40-45% for maximum benefit and comfort. If you have a ventilator and a whole home humidifier, it is highly recommended that the humidifier be set 5-10% lower than the ventilator. This will ensure that your systems are working cohesively with one another.

The reason water drains from your HRV is because of moisture that builds up condensation from warm air touching the colder surfaces inside. The drain is there to release that condensate water. So, when there isn’t a moisture build up inside, there won’t be water inside your drain tube. Moisture in the tube is also a result of lifestyle (cooking, bathing, etc.).

One thing Purahome informs all of their customers of when showing interest in purchasing a ventilator is that they may also need a humidifier down the road. Ventilators do an exceptional job at reducing your exposure to harmful VOCs and other gases, in the winter. However, when taking in the dry winter air from outside, they can reduce the moisture content of your air. So if you would like to continue to benefit from your ventilator during the winter months, it would be best to invest in a humidifier.

No. Water presence on the windows depends on a few factors, such as, how air tight your home is, the quality of windows, humidification, and ventilation. If you do see any black growth, you can wipe it up with mild soap and water, or, use a safe disinfectant like Benefect.

Every year, your HRV/ERV will require a new filter kit, which includes two prefilters and a bottle of Benefect Disinfectant. At the six month mark, your prefilters will need to be cleaned. This can be done by vacuum or hosing off the debris and spraying them with the Benefect Disinfectant.

Your HRV/ERV core will need to be taken cleaned once every 6 months. You do this by sliding the core out of its track and rinsing it under water. Before putting it back in its track, wait for the core to dry. We also recommend wiping the inside of your HRV/ERV with a natural disinfectant spray.

Check the power cord is not loose on top of the HRV. Then check the Controller and Duotrol settings. Set the controller to a low humidity setting. The Intermittent setting will shut down the HRV when the desired humidity in your home is reached whereas the Continuous setting will keep the HRV running at a lower speed. Other reasons why the unit is not running could be the door switch, this can be tested by simply pressing down on it and the HRV should run.

If one of the motors stops running, your unit has most likely entered a defrost cycle. Your Greentek Ventilator will enter an automatic defrost cycle when temperatures outside reach -5 ⁰C or below. This means that the motor drawing cold, outdoor air in through the core shuts off for 3-5 minutes every 20 minutes allowing any ice built-up in the core to melt. Greentek ventilators use proportional defrost cycles, so the colder it is outside, the longer the motor stays shut off.

ULTRASONIC HUMIDIFERS

If you are running an ultrasonic humidifier, without a demineralizing cartridge, the minerals that are sent out of the humidifier with the water vapour will appear as white dust. If you are using a demineralizing cartridge, it is quite likely that it is fully saturated and no longer affective. If the ultrasonic humidifier is being used where there is no air flow (radiant heat), there is a greater likelihood of seeing the white dust.

If you notice that there is a layer of slime at the bottom of your humidifier, this means that there is a biofilm caused by bacterial growth. The unit should be cleaned with mild soap and water, and also sanitized with hydrogen peroxide, or a natural disinfectant, such as Benefect.

Whenever water evaporates, minerals will accumulate. To descale the humidifier, use an acidic solution, such as vinegar, or EZ-Cal, and let the unit soak for 30 minutes. Clean with a stiff brush and then rinse with water.

Start the descaling process by holding the power/clean button down for 3 seconds until the length of time for descaling appears. Simply choose the length of time, or, if you do not wish to descale, choose 0 hrs, and the clean reminder light will disappear.

STEAM HUMIDIFIERS

Unlike an ultrasonic humidifier, where you see the water come out, with a steam humidifier, the water has already evaporated and is coming out as steam that is not visible. Ultimately the humidity level will confirm if the unit is working. You will feel a gentle flow of moisture and it will be warm at the output if it is working.

WHOLE HOME HUMIDIFIERS

If you have a whole home humidifier and your home is still too dry, it is important to check if your furnace fan is on. Many people’s furnace fan will only turn on when the furnace kicks in to heat their home. This means that humidified air is only being circulated throughout the home when the furnace is running. If you have a newer and/or more efficient furnace and your furnace fan is not running on the ‘continuous’ setting, you will not benefit fully from your whole home humidifier. Also, increase the dial on the humidistat to a higher humidity setting. NOTE – it may take 2-3 weeks to saturate wood flooring and furniture on a new installation before the home humidity increases significantly.

If the humidity level in your home is greater than the humidity level set on the controller, the drum will not turn. If the opposite is true where the home’s humidity is lower than the controller setting, then something need to be corrected. Check that all wires to the motor and controller are not loose. If the wires are all intact, then either the motor or controller are not working. This can be checked by rewiring the motor directly without have the controller connected so that the motor is always powered. If the drum does not turn, the motor is defective. If the drum does turn, the controller is defective.

This will depend on which model or generation you have. The earlier units are valves that become engaged when an electrical signal is sent to them. If there is a lot of mineral or sediment build-up, the valve may not flush properly. This can be corrected with a pipe cleaner, repeatedly used to clear out the debris build-up. If the electrical signal does not engage the valve to open, the Autoflush needs to be replaced.

Later models have a blue light indicating power is on. If the light is not on, it is possible that the engage button was held for more than 10 seconds, causing the Autoflush to go into summer shutdown. In shutdown mode, the light turns off and the power is off. The engage button needs to be pressed for more than 10 seconds to switch the Autoflush back into operation/winter mode. The light and power should turn back on. If they do not, the unit needs to be replaced.

To simply test the Autoflush with an engage button, simply hold it down for 3-4 seconds and it should engage a flush.

BENEFECT BOTANICAL CLEANERS

They are very similar in that they are healthy disinfectants. The main differences are the Decon 30 is not as aromatic as the Benefect. Also, it can penetrate porous materials better. The Benefect original works on TB, Decon 30 does not. For a complete side by side comparison, click here.

ODOUR NEUTRALIZERS

If the odour is from a dog for example whereby it is not urinating on the floor, any of the dry oil odour neutralizers will work. If the issue is a cat marking its territory, the bacteria causing the odour on the concrete or wood or carpeted floor need to be eliminated so a liquid odour neutralizer with enzymes called Bio-C GP is required.

Make a solution of Bio-C GP by diluting it 10 times. The diluted solution needs to be used up within 24 hours. Use a spray pump to spray the entire affected floor space. Cover the sprayed floor space with a light poly (available at hardware stores) for 1 day. This allows the odour neutralizing solution to not evaporate and therefor work longer to destroy the odour-causing bacteria.

Generally, Vaportek’s products do not cause negative reactions. However, for individuals with severe allergies to trees, plants, or flowers, Vaportek’s line of air treatment products could produce allergic reactions. If allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately.

In the Niagara Region, there are 100 premature deaths annually due to breathing toxic air and this is only “reporting on those who are functioning well… who have no expectation of early death” July 2006 (OMA)

In Toronto, there are 1000 premature deaths annually and 5500 hospitalizations due to toxic air. (PH)

50% of all illness is caused by indoor air pollution. (EPA)

In 2001, there was a 35% increase in daily hospitalization of children under 2 on days of elevated particulate in the air. (HC)