KT pHISTLES
pierced the
Smarrow-freezing
air at 2 a.m. Hundreds of
Indians, dressed in
shaggy garb with knit
masks, called to one
another to begin the
glacial ascent. These
were the ukukus, young
men in bear costumes
who are chosen to
represent their villages
on the pilgrimage.
We climbed to the
edge of the glacier, then
lingered among icy rocks
for two hours, drenched
by the cold light of a
silver moon. Despite my
heavy boots and warm
clothes, the cold stabbed
viciously at me. But the
ukukus, some shod only in
sandals, regarded the
cold stoically. For them it
was appropriate
penance, a critical part of
the pilgrimage.
Finally, as the light of
dawn softened the high,
hard profile of the
mountains, we climbed up
onto the glacier.
Carefully kicking steps
in the ice, we struggled
ever higher.
8now Stra
Pilgrimage
o
KM
oo0
0 MIE
60
IRA BLOCK
Peru'sPilgrimage to the Sky