I recently wrote about my shift in loyalty from long-grain white to short-grain brown rice. Being greedy and fickle, as ever, I've since moved one shade on and now can't stop reaching for black glutinous rice. In spite of the name, this rice is a very deep burgundy in colour; it's also, like most rice, gluten-free. Not only that, it is gloriously nutty in taste, beautiful to look at and has a soft, starchy texture that, because each grain retains its integrity when cooked, is slightly al dente, too.

Black glutinous rice works in both savoury and sweet dishes. It's a popular pudding rice in south-east Asia, where you'll often come across it cooked with water, coconut milk and a pandan leaf. Once the liquid has been absorbed, palm or brown sugar is added, along with a pinch of salt. The rice can then be eaten just as it is or, for extra sweetness, with diced fresh mango or banana.

In savoury dishes, meanwhile, it is used as a striking alternative to other short-grain rices. I recently served some with harissa-marinated chicken thighs and a bright green salad, and it worked a treat. Like brown rice, black rice is unmilled, and it is the dark outer husk that makes it so nutty and chewy. It's also why it takes longer to cook than many other rices.

For the best results, soak the rice overnight, drain, then cook in simmering water, stirring often to release the starch and increase its creamy softness. Like all rice, black rice is great at absorbing flavours, but it's just as happy to act as a satiny bed for a poached egg, say, if you want to keep things simple.

Italian nerone rice, which you can get in large supermarkets and many healthfood shops, works fine – but it is ketan hitam, the south-east Asian (mostly Thai) black glutinous rice, that you should seek out (try Asian stores or online). This will give the best results in the glutinous stakes – unless Jennifer Garner happens to be at the next table, of course.

Seared girolles with black glutinous rice

Soak the rice overnight, or it will take a very long time to cook. To make this dairy-free, just leave out the curd. Girolles, which aren't always easy to find, can be replaced by oyster mushrooms. Serves four.

Pour a tablespoon of the oil into a medium saucepan. Add the shallots, lemon skin, thyme, bay leaf, half a teaspoon of salt and some black pepper, and place on a medium-low heat. Cook for five to six minutes, until the shallots are soft. Drain the soaked black rice and add to the pan. Add 400ml of water, bring to a boil, reduce to a gentle simmer, cover and cook for 35 to 40 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the rice is well cooked and has a starchy consistency. Remove and discard the lemon, thyme and bay, and keep the rice somewhere warm until serving.

Pour the remaining oil into a frying pan and add the girolles, a quarter-teaspoon of salt and some black pepper. Sauté for about five minutes, stirring so that the mushroom take on some colour all over, then remove the pan from the heat and add the truffle oil, butter, grated lemon zest, lemon juice and tarragon.

To serve, spoon the black rice on to individual plates, top first with the mushrooms and then with the goat's curd, drizzle a little more olive oil over the top and scatter on some more grated lemon zest.

Leek and lime gratin

Use fresh or frozen lime leaves to make this vegetarian gratin, which tastes uncannily like a Thai green curry. If you can't get hold of any, and so have to use freeze-dried lime leaves instead, add as many as you need to get that distinctive flavour. Serves four.

Slice the leeks lengthways and cut them into 5cm-long segments. Rinse well but gently, then dry equally carefully – you don't want the pieces of leek to fall apart.

You'll need a large, ovenproof sauté pan, for which you have a lid. On a medium-high flame, heat two tablespoons of the oil in the pan, add the shallots, lime skin, lemongrass, lime leaves and a quarter-teaspoon of salt, and sauté for eight minutes, stirring from time to time, until the shallots have softened. Add the garlic and chilli, and cook for another two to three minutes. Pour in the wine and let it bubble until the liquid has reduced by half – about two minutes.

Carefully place the leeks on top of the shallot mixture, so they end up lying flat in one layer, then pour over the vegetable stock – the leeks should be just covered. Pop on the lid and leave to simmer for five to eight minutes, until the leeks are tender. Lift out the leeks with a slotted spoon and set aside; remove and discard the lime skin, lime leaves and lemongrass.

While the leeks are cooking, put the breadcrumbs in a bowl with the rest of the oil, the lime juice and a quarter-teaspoon of salt. Rub the mixture with your hands, so the breadcrumbs clump together a bit like crumble topping, then set aside.

Returning to the sauté pan, stir a tablespoon or two of the hot stock into the crème fraîche, to warm it through, then whisk the crème fraîche into the pan. Turn down the heat to low and slowly reduce the liquid until you are left with about 350ml.

Meanwhile, heat the grill. Stir the coriander into the stock, then return the leeks to the pan. Sprinkle the panko mix evenly over the top and place under the hot grill for 10 minutes, until the breadcrumbs take on some colour. Leave to rest for a minute or two, then serve hot.