Maruti Ritz : Test Drive & Review

This is a discussion on Maruti Ritz : Test Drive & Review within Official New Car Reviews, part of the Team-BHP Reviews category; Originally Posted by krivbel
...I have given it for servicing at Mandovi, as well as Girimaji. Mandovi thinks that the ...

...I have given it for servicing at Mandovi, as well as Girimaji. Mandovi thinks that the light is on because of an issue with the turbo. Girimaji said that they have dries the fuel filter from water. I am quite annoyed with the service being offered on my Ritz...

Send a mail to Maruti customer care please.

Quote:

Originally Posted by krivbel

When I accelerate I hear "Whoosh" sound. (well I am a layman when it comes to cars, forgive me), No one is able to fix that either...

1. What is the rpm at which this sound comes?
2. Try depressing the clutch at around 2500 rpm and tell us if you come across any sound.
3. Did you manage to hit the underbody anywhere?

I guess the air is leaking and pressure could not be building in when the turbo spools. At what RPM does this whooosh happen and when does it subside?

Anurag.

Thanks Anurag,

The light is always on. I will get the water tank checked this time.

Thank you for understanding my "Whoosh"

Quote:

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

1. What is the rpm at which this sound comes?
2. Try depressing the clutch at around 2500 rpm and tell us if you come across any sound.
3. Did you manage to hit the underbody anywhere?

The sound comes at about 1500 RPM. I do not distinctly remember hitting the underbody though. I will get that verified too.

Can you also recommend an ICE, which has a good bluetooth facility, I tried the Sony BT69. There was a lot of disturbance in the audio quality when I used it. The Mandovi guys came up with a ridiculous excuse that Samsung Smartphones are apparently not compatible with any of the ICEs.

Hey arjithin,
stupid question, is the paint repair kit a DIY stuff or you still need to take it to a paint shop?
My ritzy too have got some accumulation of scratches, was thinking of getting them off. Do let me know of any good brand for it. Thanks.

I am planning to get this if I can get a good color match. Used their pens earlier on my CRV and the results were satisfactory.

....The sound comes at about 1500 RPM. I do not distinctly remember hitting the underbody though. I will get that verified too...

1500 rpm may mean this is NOT related to turbo as turbo spooling will happen from 1800 rpm or so.

Quote:

Originally Posted by krivbel

....Can you also recommend an ICE, which has a good bluetooth facility, I tried the Sony BT69. There was a lot of disturbance in the audio quality when I used it. The Mandovi guys came up with a ridiculous excuse that Samsung Smartphones are apparently not compatible with any of the ICEs...

Is it a Head Unit (HU) you meant by ICE? You should look at Pioneer for anything below 10K. Beyond that you might have good choices in Kenwood and beyond 15K, Alpine / JVC etc (2 DIN).

Infact, you should mention you budget and type (1 / 2 DIN) and also your other requirements & expectations from the unit. Please do visit ICE section to check on the product list.

1500 rpm may mean this is NOT related to turbo as turbo spooling will happen from 1800 rpm or so.

It's not that Turbo starts spinning only after 1800 rpm. Even at idle the Turbo is spinning, its just that it starts to deliver peak boost close to 2000 rpm point in majority of Turbo Diesel application in passenger cars.

Got the bulbs changed over the weekend. No "Xtreme vision H11" was available at AK traders, only regular Philips H11 was there and I bought it for Rs 560 a pair.
Got it changed with the help of a local workshop.
Left side change was easy; just parked the car on ramp and a mechanic could directly access the bulb from below. RIght side was a bit tricky due to the windshield washer reservoir blocking access to the bulb; hence the wheel arch cover and two screws of bumber were removed to make enough room.

Result : Not very happy. I guess the lamps are not aligned correctly now and most of the light is pointed at around 5-6 feet in front of the car. From my driving seat, I cant see any bright spots when only fog lamps are ON.

Took the car again to same workshop and they were least bothered to help (Saying they didnt touch the reflector or lamp). It also could be because the H11 bulbs are few millimetres longer than H8. More research needed to find out what is causing the reduction in light compared to the old H8.

OT - I was checking other similar Maruti vehicle's fog light throw and they are all less and very close to front bumper. I saw an old generation Verna and it was superb throw..almost 20-25 meters

Could you please let me know as to when the Disks/Pads need to be replaced in a Ritz VDi (ABS)? My car has clocked 25K kms till date. MSM service folks are advising me to change the disks ASAP. But, I don't find a need to change them.

OT - I was checking other similar Maruti vehicle's fog light throw and they are all less and very close to front bumper. I saw an old generation Verna and it was superb throw..almost 20-25 meters

I believe this is the whole point of the fog lamp: to illuminate the immediate area in front and a bit to the sides. If the Verna's fog lamp was lighting up the road 20m away, it wouldn't have been of much use in fog. Besides, you've got headlamps to cover that range anyway.

Hi All,
Could you please let me know as to when the Disks/Pads need to be replaced in a Ritz VDi (ABS)? My car has clocked 25K kms till date. MSM service folks are advising me to change the disks ASAP. But, I don't find a need to change them.

They are trying to fleece you.

How is the braking now? Spongy or sharp as new?

IMO brake pads last minimum 60-70K in the Ritz D with normal driving style. An aggressive driver will eat the pads away may be by 40-50K but your cat has done 25K only. It all depend on how you drive. Late braking or using it frequently can also deteriorate it faster.

Actually, 60-70K is very good life for Brake Pads of Diesel cars IMHO. The usual change interval (after wearing out) should ideally be anywhere between 40-50k Kms. (Anurag I know it can last more for you )

The best way to find out is obviously by examining the thickness of the pads and the wear indicator.

Secondly, there are cases where the pads have life left but their surface would have become harder. This requires using emery paper and rubbing the surface and you can feel a bit of difference.

Lastly, like Anurag mentions, if you are experiencing sponginess, you may get the brake bleeding done once too.

Actually, 60-70K is very good life for Brake Pads of Diesel cars IMHO. The usual change interval (after wearing out) should ideally be anywhere between 40-50k Kms. (Anurag I know it can last more for you)

Lol, I did change my brake pads at 58K in my Ritz.

That car was paisa vasool totally. Hour the Swift too remains like the Ritz.

Quote:

Originally Posted by paragsachania

The best way to find out is obviously by examining the thickness of the pads and the wear indicator.

Secondly, there are cases where the pads have life left but their surface would have become harder. This requires using emery paper and rubbing the surface and you can feel a bit of difference.

Lastly, like Anurag mentions, if you are experiencing sponginess, you may get the brake bleeding done once too.

The ASC is too lazy to check for the wear indicator and if wear off is less, then the need to open up the brake pads and rub it with emery paper is all highfy job that demands skilled labour.

I believe this is the whole point of the fog lamp: to illuminate the immediate area in front and a bit to the sides. If the Verna's fog lamp was lighting up the road 20m away, it wouldn't have been of much use in fog. Besides, you've got headlamps to cover that range anyway.

Agree that the light should be dispersed closer to the bumper. I was checking Hella's foglamp beam pattern graph and the light is uniformly distribited in the first 10 meter range, and a good amount of light in the 10-20 m range. But in my car, no light is crossing 2 meter mark and I cant see the light from my driving seat position without leaning forward; hence thinking its not aligned properly.

By bleeding the brakes, I think only brake play will reduce. However the braking won't change. That entirely should depend on the pads.

Correct me if I am wrong but just putting my thought down.

If the brake bleeding is done then the trapped air bubbles are removed so the fluid is fully occupying the piping, when the brake pedal is pressed the pressure is developed correctly and uniformly so the brake pads get correct pressure to be pushed against the disc causing the car to stop normally BUT in case there is are air bubbles then the pressure MAY not develop properly or uniformly causing a hick-up to move the brake pads against the disc.

This is I know so please correct me if I am not correct.

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by arjithin

Agree that the light should be dispersed closer to the bumper. I was checking Hella's foglamp beam pattern graph and the light is uniformly distribited in the first 10 meter range, and a good amount of light in the 10-20 m range. But in my car, no light is crossing 2 meter mark and I cant see the light from my driving seat position without leaning forward; hence thinking its not aligned properly.

I too am in need of understanding how to align my fog lamps as the left one is pointing towards left (outwards angle) and the right is somewhat OK. Though I don't use the fog lamps at all but it doesn't look nice so thinking to ask MASS to do the same.