Aquired A 67 Cj5- Highly Modified Help Needed

Thanks for the replies. I was busy all day so I'm just getting back on the computer. Thanks for helping me ID parts and this will really help when I go to order parts.

As far the as underside being clean, I scraped a 5 gallon bucket of crud off the trans and transfer so it was leaking over the years.

I can see where the Carter AVS wouldn't be great off road. When I took it apart it had two huge floats and one of them was way out of adjustment. I just cleaned all the passages out with carb cleaner and compressed air and reset the float specs.

My son and I flushed the brakes lines and we were able to get the air out. I was surprised the wheel cylinder pistons weren't frozen up after all this time but what I flushed out looked very bad. I'm going to flush another bottle through then go from there because it looks like it's clearing up.

I took it on a drive up and down the street a few times going pretty slow. It doesn't stop very well so I need to look into that. The auto trans is shifting into all gears and that's what I wanted to find out.

It back firing like crazy when I accelerate. I need to check the timing and vacuum advance and see it that's the problem. It seems to drive smooth and there was nothing sketchy when turning at slow speed.

I found two buttons on the dash and I sure they are what activate the lockers. They must be air powered so I'm going to check this week and see if the air tank needs to be charged by the compressor to engage them. I think I should jack up the front and rear, engage the lockers and see if they lock. I don't think they are locked because there would have been hopping in the turn when I took my test drive on concrete.

I have no experience with overdrives. Which direction should the shaft be, pulled out in pushed in for the overdrive to be activated? Where the t90 tranny stick used to be, they converted that into the overdrive selector.

Radiator has a crack up near the hose outlet at the top. I'm going to JB weld it for the time being until I see if the water pump is still ok. My experience is the seals go bad and I'll address the whole cooling system when I change the pump.

Mechanical fuel pump doesn't seem to keep up and I have to turn on the electric fuel pump. The dash has a fuel PSI gauge and it seems to run good at about 5 PSI. The oil pressure is 20 PSI at idle which seems fine.

Your brakes are poor because they are manual with drums up front and back with an automatic transmission. You're gonna need to exert a lot more pressure than you're used to. I would move that welder and install a power brake booster. The 11" drums should work fine, but disks up front would be on my list with the power brakes. Other than that, you have what I wish I had as far as options.

Chis is right, most drivers are unaccustomed to the amount of pedal pressure you need with manual drum brakes. You need even better brakes with an automatic. 4-wheeling with an automatic requires a 2-footed style that puts a heavy load on both the brakes and the transmission (heat!).

I see what you mean. The foot brake on it is custom made (not very pretty fab work) extra wide. I'll snap a picture later. I know drums can work pretty well if you keep stock. I can lock up my A1 wheels on the pavement but it's bone stock with NDT tires as it was designed for.

The more I think about it the more I don't like the auto trans. The benefit of locking it into 4wd/low and crawling around with long stroke engine compression for braking is gone. The auto trans seems scary on a steep hill and will put all the burden on the brakes.

I think I figured out the driving concept. It has a idle adjuster knob and I think they would set it to a certing engine rpm, put both feet on the wide brake pedal and crawl around applying only brake when needed.

I live on the edge of the desert so I'm just looking for something to tool around in, go shooting and look for dirtbike tracks. I want to let my kids try driving it so it has to be safe and easy to brake. I don't plan on doing crazy Panamint runs which BTW I'm not far from. I prefer my big bore XL for trails but I like tinkering so I'm having fun with this one.

Electric fuel pump + in cab fuel gauge = bad potential.
Make sure the pump has automatic shutoff and the gauge has a sensor fed signal rather than fuel port.
Sounds like you are doing everything as should.

I assume he put an electronic fuel pump on because (A) the upgrade to Carter AVS on an Offenhauser manifold needed more fuel than the mechanical pump could deliver or (B) The stock pump is old and can't keep up with the Carter. In the second case a new mechanical fuel pump would be good enough. Seems having two tanks it's nice to have the electric fuel pump becuase when you switch tanks it helps prime the lines.

I don't think the pump is auto shutoff. It's a simple inline unit mouted on the frame next to the fuel tank. It may have a built in pressure limiter because the line never seems to go past 5 PSI.

The fuel pressure sensor is mechanical (oil in brass tube type like a mechanical oil guage) that is mouted on the fuel line just before the line enters the carb. You can see it in the picture of the carb I posted. It's the t-fitting just before the inlet to the carb and a small brass line t's off next to an orange wire.

... I think I figured out the driving concept. It has a idle adjuster knob and I think they would set it to a certing engine rpm, put both feet on the wide brake pedal and crawl around applying only brake when needed. ...

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Most I've seen would go with power brakes and manage the gas and brake at the same time. Riding the brakes holds you back while you build up power with the throttle to climb over obstacles. A wider pedal is usual for automatic cars of the era. In that case, I'd presume it's not so you could use both feet to brake, but instead to make the brakes a bigger target and easier to apply. A hand throttle is a common addition to manual transmission jeeps too.

Looks like air lockers front and rear. Front diff has a blue hose coming out and I see the same type of blue hose running behind the air tank to the rear. Rear axle looks like a flanged rear, based on the brake mounting flange. I would get a plate to protect the flex plate and torque converter. Make sure the rubber fuel lines don't cross anything hot and figure out what the reasons for the carb bailing wire is. Hei and carb would be the top of my changes but strictly on the want list.
Check the air tank for internal rust. It would be best to replace if condition is unknown being 15years old if setting with water in it.

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Very good advise. Thanks. Would you worry about a little rust in the air tank spreading particles to the air actuated systems or just general worry about storing compressed air in a weak container? I was thinking of spraying some brake cleaner in the tank, open the drain and let it run out. If it's rust color I know there may be problem.

I'm not sure what a flanged rear end is but if it's like my A1, the backing plate bolts to a flange. Same thing? I Think I remeber what a full floating axle is and I'll pull the rear tires and look under the center hub cap. There should be a flange with bolts that hold the axle in, correct?

Flanged vs. tapered. Most of these Jeeps came with tapered axles that attach to the wheel hub with a big nut and a key. From about 1970 on Jeep switched to an axle where the hub and axle shaft are one piece, forming a "flange" on the end of the axle that the lug studs go through.

for safety sake . disconnect the pressure gauge on dash . I have had mechanical oil gauges break line behind gauge . hot oil is one thing . GAS is another

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The oil sender is electronic. The fuel pressure is mechanical. I think they use a light oil inside the brass line to transfer the pressure to the guage in the mechanical type. It's not hot and there is a very small amount.

Actually, I think we are both correct. I've seen ones where the engine oil actually travels up the line to the guage. My fuel pressure guage is the prior of the two mechanical types.

For saftey reaons, they would never design one where the gas travels up the line to the guage.

Flanged vs. tapered. Most of these Jeeps came with tapered axles that attach to the wheel hub with a big nut and a key. From about 1970 on Jeep switched to an axle where the hub and axle shaft are one piece, forming a "flange" on the end of the axle that the lug studs go through.

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O.k. got it. Yes my A1 has a tapered axle type with a woodruf key. That Jeep is all stock so I don't worry but I know people who have spun them on built up rigs.

The third picture I was thinking this is a relay for the winch probably connected to the dash. It has two high amp connectors and one low amp connector. I was reading these winches can be controlled at the unit with a plug in control. The dash controlled option may be handy in certain situations.

Do you have the title to this thing? If you don't like the auto then it can be a ton of time, work and money to switch it back to a manual trans. Depends if you really like this particular jeep. You'd probably want a truck style 4 speed. Perhaps you can trade it for a rig with a stick?

Of course this one does have a lot going for it. Have you figured out the ring and pinion gears? How is the Frame? Unless you find one built well, just the way you want it, a project rig is always a project.

My dana 30 has manual disk brakes. And it stops great. I have no intention on going to power...maybe if I opened up the 35" tires can of worms.

Edit: One more thing to add: Since you're in California, there are surprisingly little requirements for a street-legal, older, moderately modified vehicle in my experience. At least nobody checks up on you. Eg: pre- 76' no smog required; if its an in state title, then no VIN verification or vehicle checks. If it's not too crazy a vehicle then all the lights have to work, you have to have a valid plate, a windshield, and you have to have fenders (maybe mud flaps) to avoid a CHP stop.

IIWM I'd check on the legal status before I put too much money & time into it. Hard to imagine someone just walking away from that.

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Good point. I went over today and 36 bucks later it's in my name. As I look into what some of these after market parts cost I realize I scored. I didn't think that much of it when I hauled it home and I don't want to gloat about it. I should not have mentioned that is was a good deal.