Help with 327F alternator (64 Super Sport 17')

Hello, I realize this is not exactly a commander question, but this forum seems much more active than the boatbuzz site. Rather than diagnose whether my charging problem is regulator or alternator, I'm interested in using a one-wire replacement with internal regulator and getting a few more amps of power as an upgrade. Would that setup look something like the pic, where the single alternator wire attaches directly tro the shunt? The current alternator is only 40-Amp, I'm thinking I'd only want up to 60-65A as a replacement so I'm not faced with upgrading wire sizes. Thanks all,

Replies to This Discussion

Yes, that would work. I would remove that whole alternator harness though, it’s separate from the main harness and will make things alot cleaner. Then run your 8ga wire to the shunt. I removed the shunt when I did mine as the ammeters didn’t work and I was going to 94 amp alternators.

Thanks for all the info Mike, I'm going to give the DBelectrical.com cheapo a shot... Just finished rebuilding the raw water and fuel pumps, probably should have bought the Arco but couldn't stomach the price.

Both of my 327F's have brand new one wire alternators with internal regulators. We ran both wires directly to the shunt and bypassed the regulators. Works like a charm, and as long as the engines are started, they'll run even if the batteries die.

AAlternator and Starter in Bacliff TX supplied both of mine for $179 each.

One other issue I have with switching to one wire is the ignition coil ballast. I’m assuming the wite hooked to the old voltage regulator box acted as a ballast resistor. Without the box, I’m assuming (again...yikes), I need add a ballast resistor. I don’t see the risk if I’m wrong, it just wont start very well right?

My F’s had no balast resistors, just uses 12V internally resisted coils. I also don’t see a balast resistor in that diagram. With Chris Crafts of this era white is typically Ground/ Negative, black is Hot/Positive

hmm, I guess what I’m confused by is the connection from the coil to the “I” terminal on the old voltage regulator. Looking at the back of the regulator box it appears that “I” terminal is connected to a resistor. In the drawing, the coil also has a direct path to 12vdc via the connection to the ignition key tumbler. To me it seems like the direct path to the keyswitch was for starting with full power to the coil, then the alternator kicked in and the regulator stepped down power bia a resistor...

Probably totally wrong though, this stuff is all new to me as I was born at the end of the carburetor and points era. Mostly, I’m just confused by the mysterious black box I just removed!

That resistor is the shunt for the ammeter. You need it for your Ammeter to work.

lftmx3 said:

hmm, I guess what I’m confused by is the connection from the coil to the “I” terminal on the old voltage regulator. Looking at the back of the regulator box it appears that “I” terminal is connected to a resistor. In the drawing, the coil also has a direct path to 12vdc via the connection to the ignition key tumbler. To me it seems like the direct path to the keyswitch was for starting with full power to the coil, then the alternator kicked in and the regulator stepped down power bia a resistor...

Probably totally wrong though, this stuff is all new to me as I was born at the end of the carburetor and points era. Mostly, I’m just confused by the mysterious black box I just removed!

The one wire will work fine. Take the cable from the alternator to the shunt. I just upgraded a 427 to a one wire mercruiser s7i which also requires a keyed circuit wire. Took it the the positive side of the coil.

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