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JourneyingJames as a Rice Farmer in Kalinga

Call it perfect timing! I arrived at Kalinga, particularly in Buscalan, Tinglayan on the first day of the planting season. Buscalan in Tingalayan is known for Fang-od, the last remaining tattoo artist of Kalinga. She is featured by Lars Krutak of Discovery Channel for Tattoo Hunter.

Fang-od tattooing Dr. Veneracion

I don’t have a guide going there- I know that I need to have a guide but this time I just trusted my instinct. I boarded a bus from Tabuk City and hoped that I will meet some tribesmen who are from the tattooing village of Buscalan.Traveler’s Tip: Get a guide, contact Francis Pa-in: 0915-769-0843

It seemed that heaven is on my side as I was seated (on top-load) with a member of the Butbut tribe- from Buscalan. I actually begged him to bring me to his village. So on February 14th I arrived at Buscalan, Tinglayan, without any contact person. I was treated as one of them- offered water and food as we finished the 2.5 hours of serious hike.Traveler’s Tip: When in Kalinga, ask for a glass of water the moment you arrived in their house. Its a way of saying that you trust them with your life.

The first thing I did was to check out their place- it was simply amazing. I loved their rice terraces more than Batad. The village is beaming with culture- tattoo-covered men and women, pigs and chicken under their huts, make-shift coffee makers and dialect I don’t understand. I was over the clouds- literally and figuratively.

The last of the tattooed Kalinga women, Butbut tribe

The next morning I asked one of the chief elders if I can join the farmers- he said yes. I wanted to try planting rice but he was telling me to fix the paddies instead. I did plant rice stalks anyway. After more than 30 minutes of learning the art of planting I noticed that I was the only male planting rice. Turns out that women are in-charge of planting while the men prepare the fields. Funny! But I enjoyed it anyway. hahaha The women are laughing at me as I left the fields and explore more of what the village offers.Traveler’s Tip: Listen to the local.

First Day of Planting Season

JourneyingJames learning from the Butbut women how to plant rice

If you want to have a glimpse of what I experienced, you can watch my video: JourneyingJames as a Rice Farmer in Kalinga-

James Wearing Four Different Hats- a series os some unforgettable moments during my #isangdaan journey.

I know the Kalinga rice farmers produce a variety of export-quality rice that we should also support. I hope the rare varieties are also readily sold anywhere in the Philippines so our local producers will be patronized more than the exports.

hi James,
Thanks for sharing the beautiful places you’ve been through kalinga is a beautiful places when you really want to travel and discover whats in your place is a shame for me cause i was born there but never discover kalinga….

Nice post James.. now gusto ko na siyang iside trip papuntang Sagada.. yup.. I’ll take your advice to do it on summer… Traveler’s Tip: When in Kalinga, ask for a glass of water the moment you arrived in their house. Its a way of saying that you trust them with your life. ( super like ) thanks for sharing….

I was not able to engage Francis Pa In as his mobile was off the few days I was there.
Just to warn other travellers not to trust any “guide” the Tourist Info Ctr, Sleeping Beauty Inn/ restaurant/ convenience store/ owner/ Fenandez may recommend. The one I got from them turned out to be their employee who moonlighted with their approval; who drank too much on the first night back to his village and could not continue the journey & told me to return Tinglayan.
Tourist Info woman just shrugged off the incident when Im back, and said there are no more guides available..
To wait for Francis Pa In, best bet is to go the white convenience store near “Lup Lup A Riverside Inn” signage at “Ding-lash” and enquire.