I have a span of 4" between my two stringlengths and for me it works fine

This is at the bridge?

I wasn't clear on this one. I meant that I have a difference in stringlength between the trebleside and the bassside of about 4" (30.6 - 25.7).You can choose how you want to fan your frets. I've again used the golden ratio. So the treble side of the zero fret is shifted 4/1.618" to the right (see the drawing at the top of the thread).

One thing to keep in mind is that the stringlength you use for the trebleside isn't the same for your high b string. Your b string will be somewhat longer, because it is a little bit off the side.This can be critical with this high pitched string.

I've did some testing on a 24" scale, but I moved quickly to another tuning options (at first a regular high E and later on to the F#).

Ah, that makes more sense, thanks. I drew up my fretboard last night with a 3" fan and 22 frets. I think I would like to try that first to see how it fits my hand.

When I talked to the custom string makers, they seemed to think that 23 3/4" was pretty much the upper limit for a standard string. I know you are just talking 1/4" difference, but you're really pushing the string to its limits and the little bits count. I'm going to try taking that down to 23 1/2" to see if I can relax it a little more. If I can stand the stretch then I'd like to take it down to 23" in the future. I don't play with a lot of string bending but it would be nice to have the option if I ever wanted to. (I say that, but my two-year-old string is fine for a little modest bending.)

One thing to keep in mind is that the stringlength you use for the trebleside isn't the same for your high b string. Your b string will be somewhat longer, because it is a little bit off the side.

I'm not sure what you mean here. Can you elaborate, please?

Thanks for your time, Hans. I appreciate your letting me ask you questions.

I'm sorry, my limited knowledge of English is getting in the way.What I mean is that when you make a guitar with a fan is that every string has is own stringlength somewhere in between the two limits you set.So when you have a 23"-26" fan, the stringlength of your highest string shall be a bit more then 23", the next string would have an even longer stringlength, and so on.Seen from the other side, your lowest string will have a stringlength a bit shorter then the upper limit.Does this makes sense?

Not completely, unless you are talking about compensation issues. But that's a pretty small amount, anyway, and I'm giving it an extra 1/4" over what I already know works.

I can see where it's pretty much impossible to get the two points endpoints (nut and bridge) exact because the string is meeting those points at an angle rather than being perpendicular. But I would think the highest string would suffer from that the least since it's the thinnest.

But yes. It would be nice to make the B string even shorter if possible. The tone gets a little brittle and shrill when the string is so taut. Though, heck, I'm used to the mandolin so I ought to be used to brittle and shrill.

What I meant was that every string has his own stringlength, whereas the stringlength of the strings of a regular guitar are all the same (besides compensation, but that is marginal). So your b-string will be significant shorter than your e-string, and your e-string will be shorter then your a-string and so on. But also your b-string will be longer than your scalelength you choose for the trebleside, because your string will be a bit off the side (about 1/8 of a inch). For instance when you choose a 23"-26" fan, the actual stringlength of your b-string can be 23,5".

As for compensation: I've noticed that a fanned guitar needs less compensation per string, but I don't know why that is.

I've soldered the current transformer on the xlr-connectors.I use a current transformer (1:100 but connected as a 1:50 transformer) for every string, but the (orange) magnete holder also is a single loop pickup. The pickup will be connected on the remaining connector (bottom-left), allowing me to play on a regular (bass-)guitar amp if needed.

Oh, I see. When I drew the fretboard, I made 23.5" the length of the B string at the position where the string lies on the nut and bridge, not where the nut meets the end of the fretboard. Same for the rest of the frets. So maybe I'll need more room for compensation.

I took the frets out of the stainless steel plate and sanded them to get rid of the burr.They are all cut to size to fit the corresponding fretslot in the fretboard.

I've sanded the body up to 320 grit. I've dyed the wood three times using water soluble wooddye, sanding it lightly in between and finished it with a couple of coats of danish oil and a coat of furniture wax.

Finally made some progress.I've made the neck and installed the frets.I've applied several coats of Danish oil on the neck while sanding the neck with 800 grit sandpaper.

At the moment I'm recrowning the frets.This is a tedious job because the stainless steel is hard to work with.I use sandpaper to wrap around the recrowning file, else it will dull the file.although it works, the sandpaper needs to be changed often.

When I'm done recrowning, then I'm going to make to finish the piece of wood which will hold the tuners in place.I have to rethink my single string bridge because the watercutter wasn't able to could out the desired parts.

When these to tasks are done then it's time to string up the quintar and start soldering the wires and....finally get some playing going...

Sigh. Slowly. Plans are drawn and wood is seasoning and my health has been such that I haven't gotten anywhere else. Given the health issues, I did go ahead and purchase a power planer about a week ago so I can eliminate some of the grunt work. I like hand tools but planing faces level is a lot of work. The health issues, despite seeming like forever, are fortunately temporary so I should be back on track one of these days.