Any advice on cleaning a clogged spray gun? I thought I rinsed it out well but I obviouly did not. It opens to let the material out but it just clogs up. There is a bunch of dried paint in there. I tried taking off the tip and and it won't come off. Any ideas? Also is are there guns that won't let you change the tip? Kind of a disposable gun. It was a cheap gun. About $100. Last question. Any advice on gun cleaning if you don't have a gun cleaner? I try to rinse it with a lacquer (sp?) thinner but that didn't seem to do that well. Thanks

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. I am going to try the carb cleaner. I have cleaned it pretty well but it always seems to clog when I am painting. Especially primer about a minute or two into laying down a coat. Think I am not adding enough activator or something? It's 4:1. I am using mixing cups. I am probably doing something ignorant. Thanks

I would be concerned about the carb cleaner residue that may be in the gun coming out in a nice paint job and screwing it up, it only takes a little to make a panel need re-shooting. I'd go with the lacquer thinner.

I gave a friend a couple of old spray guns, & they were clogged up also. what he did was buy a gallon of "Spray Gun Kleaner" (brand name) & soaked them in it. & he said that after he did that they all sprayed like new guns....just a thought......joe

Go to your local jobbers and get a gun cleaning kit for just a few bucks. Buy a gallon of lacquer thinner. Get an empty gallon can, pour all the thinner in it, disassemble the gun and put all the parts in there to soak. Pull all of the adjustments screws and metering rods out. If you have use a catalyzed paint you might have to let it soak for a few days. Use the gun cleaning kit and clean each part seperately. Take your time as it will take some time to do. Also use a small wire and clean the holes on the tip being careful not to open them up to a larger size. Keep a gallon can with a lid on it full of lacquer thinner and the next time you use your gun empty it out, spray some cleaner thru it, then put it in the gallon can to soak.

I am a hobby painter, but I paint quite a bit. Like once or twice a week. When I first began painting, I was lazy and basically just sprayed lacquer thinner through the gun after using it. When I next used the gun it would always be balky and dysfunctional. I eventually learned my lesson. When you finish painting with the gun, disassemble and thoroughly clean the gun immediately. When shooting mixtures with hardening/catalyst agents, it won't take long for the gun to become "dirty". I own 5 guns of various styles and price and they all can be completely disassembled, including tip. Most guns come with a dissassembly wrench tool and a set of instructions. They both come in handy. Once you completely disassemble your gun ( don't be afraid of it ) , it will become easy. Just about any auto paint supply outfit sells gun cleaning kits for less than $10.00. Get a set of brushes that range from tiny to large. Get a set of cleaning picks that cover the range of sizes. These will allow you to clean out the vent holes and p****ages, etc. If you clean your gun immediately you can get by with lacquer thinner or reducer. If you let the crap set up, you have to get drastic and use "SprayKleen". Make sure you wear a set of heavy rubber gloves throughout this process. While you are at the auto paint store, pick up a couple of extra mixing cups( quart size ) and use these to soak parts in. After cleaning your gun and reassembling leave a small amount of lacquer thinner or reducer in the cup. This will prevent any leftover from setting up. It's a nice feeling to pick up a gun when you want to paint and be ready to shoot. If you don't discipline yourself to do this, you will have an endless chain of " disposable guns".

[quote]I would be concerned about the carb cleaner residue that may be in the gun coming out in a nice paint job and screwing it up, it only takes a little to make a panel need re-shooting. I'd go with the lacquer thinner.<hr></blockquote>

Caustic soda carb cleaner washes out with hot water so residue is not an issue, as a matter of fact your gun will never get any cleaner. My guns are stored in paint cans full of Methyl Ethyl Ketone (cheaper than paint thinner) and only need tip assy and siphon tube installation to be ready to shoot. I keep them stored this way because it is sometimes years between uses and it keeps the seals from drying out (cheap thinner will dry out the seals in my old siphon guns). They still look and work like new even after 20 years of use and storage.

I've used paint stripper to clean a gun that was loaned out and came back a total mess. It works fine now, I don't know that this is reccomended, it did work for me. I use 4jaws ways of cleaning my guns when I use them, be careful storing them though. And don't lend your good guns out to friends, that's what the cheapie from Harbor Freight Salvage is good for. :skeptic: Dan

__________________
"When I was younger, I could remember anything, whether it had happened or not." - Mark Twain

BLUESTEEL: The last spray gun I bought new was so dirty on the inside that
I had to clean it thourghly to work.
Don't trust any of them, some have grease and oil in places they shouldn't.

To everyone else, I can't imagine not disassembling and cleaning my gun
as soon as I'm done spraying. I have some guns that are 20 yrs old
that look like new, not a speck of paint anywhere, I can pick up any one of
them at anytime and start spraying perfectly.
All I've ever used is lacquer thinner to clean with.
It doesn't take 10 minutes to clean a gun,especially these HVLP ones today.
To put some thinner in it and sit it aside is just plain lazy.

ALWAYS tear a gun down after a day of spraying and clean it thoroughly. NO exceptions. And go to your local craft supply store and buy a couple pounds of pipe cleaners - paint gun cleaner's best friends!

They do sell specific gun cleaner in gallon containers for cleaning hardened paint out of the passages. It works very well for those unexpected occurrences. Tear the gun down, soak the parts in the cleaner, rinse with thinner and your done. Usually about an hour will clean and soften everything right up.

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