Therefore, I have decided to write this article of the first 10 puppy days while it is still fresh in my mind. The next time I even think of getting a puppy, I can re-read this article and hopefully remember what a big pain in the ass a new puppy is!

Days 1 & 2 – Nights from Hell

We also started on puppy potty training but puppy seemed to have that under good control. We did not have any mistakes – it was amazing!

However, puppy did cry at night. This is not surprising since it is the first time she is sleeping in a new location and without her litter mates. Puppy was feeling lonely, sad, and scared. The first couple of nights I had to wake up about 4 times. 2 times to take puppy out for potty, and another 2 times just to cuddle with puppy.

As a result I did not get much, if any sleep. Be prepared to get very little sleep in the first few weeks with a new puppy.

Be prepared to get very little sleep in the first few weeks with a new puppy.

Days 3 & 4 – Puppy Potty Training Hell

The first few good potty training days lulled me into a false sense of security. On day 3 puppy made lots of mistakes all over the place.

I was around to supervise puppy the whole time, but I thought it would be ok to take short bathroom breaks while puppy was sleeping – WRONG!

I found out the hard way that constant supervision is absolutely necessary for potty training in order to prevent potty mistakes.

When I need to go to the bathroom or perform some other task, I now always put puppy in her play-pen or enclosure. There is a blanket, some toys, and puppy pads in the enclosure. This makes things a lot better because puppy either does her potty outside or on her puppy pads. I reward her for going outside, but I don’t reward her for going on her puppy pads.

Whenever it looks like she is about to potty, e.g. circling, pulling to go to corners, etc. Each puppy will have their own potty signs, so observe carefully to identify our puppy’s pre-potty behaviors.

If puppy tries to go inside the house, I am right there next to her so that I can non-mark her (Ack-Ack), interrupt her, and leave her in her enclosure to finish up. This allows me to quickly go back and clean up the mess while she is in her enclosure.

Constant vigilance and a fixed eating and drinking schedule are crucial in puppy potty training.

Day 5 – Puppy and Furniture Hell

On day 5 I nearly had a heart attack.

Puppy was sleeping nicely with me on the couch, when I started getting really hungry. The kitchen is in the next room, so I quickly stepped away to get a loaf of bread from the refrigerator – WRONG!

As soon as I got the bread, I hear this loud cry. I threw the bread on the kitchen counter and ran back to a crying puppy on the floor. She was holding one of her front legs up in pain.

Bad, bad ShibaShake!

Luckily, puppy was ok and was moving around without any sign of a limp within the next few minutes. Whew.

From then on, I am always with puppy. If I cannot be with puppy even for 1 second, she goes into her puppy enclosure.

Puppy will get into trouble if left on her own even for just 1 second.

Days 6 to 9 – Energizer Puppy Hell

I was hoping that all the dogs would play and at the end of the day I would end up with 2 tired dogs and 1 tired puppy.

At this point, puppy is a lot more comfortable with her new surroundings and is always up to something. It is tiring as hell to try and keep up with a hyper puppy.

In the beginning, I figured that my other two dogs can take up some of the slack. I was hoping that they would all play, have a lot of chasing and running goodness, and at the end of the day I would end up with 2 tired dogs and 1 tired puppy.

Indeed it worked out well at first. I supervised all play sessions and both my dogs played well with puppy. I stepped in as soon as things got too excited, and the dogs started getting too rough with puppy.

Things were looking up because puppy not only tired out Shiba Sephy, but she also conked out Husky Shania who is a big time Energizer Bunny herself. All I needed to do was stand around and step in at the appropriate times.

WRONG!

On day 9, Shiba Sephy ran over puppy before I could get to them and stop play. Puppy started crying, and was limping for the rest of the day.

It is best not to let puppy play with larger adult dogs until puppy is a bit older.

Related Articles

Congratulations on your new puppy! Some important starter supplies for a new puppy include an adult sized crate with dividers, good quality puppy food, lots of interactive chew toys, grooming supplies, and potty training supplies. Puppies grow up very quickly, so remember to have fun with your new fur ball and take a lot of pictures.

All puppies are cute and adorable, but I especially have a soft spot for Siberian Husky puppies. Our instinct will be to rush right out and buy a puppy. However, if we want healthy and well-temperamented dog, it is important to take our time and do some research. Here, we consider the why, where, and how of Siberian Husky puppies.

Puppy potty training requires time, patience, and consistency. How quickly a puppy learns proper potty rules will depend on his temperament, as well as your own. We present the facts and myths of puppy potty training including what works, and what is ineffective.

Comments

ShibaShake – Thank you so much for this article and your comments! I was at a loss about crate training my rescue 9wk puppy (border collie mix). I didn’t want him on the bed, but he would cry when I wasn’t next to him. I’ll definitely be sleeping on the floor near him now until he’s comfortable. Again, thank you thank you thank you!

My female siberian husky puppy is coming home on Dec. 23, 2014. I have 2 loving, kind cats who are sisters at 3 years old. I always leave cat’s food out along with bowl of water. How do I prevent husky from eating cat’s food?

My Huskies love food and will eat whatever they can get to. If I don’t want them to eat something, I put it out of their reach.

I don’t have any cats, so this is not something that I have had to deal with. However, cats can climb and are smaller, so some people put the cat’s food up in a place where the dog can’t reach, or use baby gates. There are also products that only allow cats access, e.g. Meowspace. I don’t know how well those work since I have never had to use one.

Another possibility is to not free feed, and to supervise during feeding time.

Just rescued 2 male 9 week old pups from a rescue shelter and I’m in hell. If they aren’t peeing all over the place they are crying. Won’t go in their crate and are caged but came from a very open and unsupervised environment with no feeding schedule or rules. It’s the most difficult thing I.ve done in my life. I work at home and have clients on speakerphone. It’s difficult.

With potty training, the key thing with my puppy is very close supervision. If I cannot supervise her for even 1 minute, I put her in a safe enclosure with puppy pads. I do not let her freely roam the house until after she is fully potty trained.

HI with my pup to keep him quiet i just place the radio next to him with low volume then tune it to a talk back station this works a treat OR try placing a candle where it cant be knocked oner or reached by the pup but also near it this works a treat too

Hi Shibashake, Am just amazed at how you have managed to handle and training your pups without being a professional. I just bought 18weeks old cross pomeranian and skye terrier. We’ve named him Skye with and “E”

Of all his litter mates his the most shy and timid. His scared of being touched, we have to corner him to touch or carry him. His been soiling all over the place. Last night we put him a collar, he dint fuss about it when we put it, then i put him on a leash to try and walk him in the house first before i could take him out. He went cccccraaazy crying and barking and making all sorts of noises. We removed the leash and comforted him and his is already a scared one and this scared him more.

The first day we brought him home, he was too quiet, atleast now i guess his warming up to us and tries walking around the house even when we are home and tries to sniff at out feet but the slightest movement startles him.

His breeder left their food at their disposal all day, i have done the same. I know its wrong and i need to schedule it. My concern is, even if i schedule his meals, i will need to schedule his walk for potty time as well. But since he doesn’t take on the leash i don’t know how to do that.

I am a first time pet owner. Good news so far is from the day we brought him home, to date. His sleeps well through out the night with no fuss.

I usually let my puppy get used to a leash by putting on a very light leash and letting her drag it around. I use a harness or regular flat collar, *not* a training collar.

When your dog isn’t in her crate or safe room, it’s a good idea to attach a lightweight leash to her harness and let her drag it around the house. If necessary, you can use the leash to get her out from under furniture if she hides. Letting your dog drag a leash will also help her get used to how the leash feels when it’s attached to her harness, which may make on-leash walks easier. ~~[ASPCA]

The ASPCA article above has more on how to care for a shy new dog. With a shy dog, I find that it is much better to motivate my dog come to me, of his own choosing. In general, I do not corner a shy dog, because that will only make him get more fearful. In addition, a fearful dog that feels cornered may use aggression as a last resort to protect himself. For this same reason, I also try *not* to grab or forcibly restrain a shy dog.

A shy dog will usually run away when he is afraid. Cornering him or forcibly restraining him takes away his ability to flee, which may increase stress and fear.

With my dogs, I set up clear dog-to-dog interaction rules and I also throw in many play-breaks so that I can properly manage their level of excitement. Sometimes when they get over-excited, play becomes over-intense and out-of-control. Play breaks help to keep things in-control, teaches them good social manners, and prevents any dog from getting overwhelmed.http://shibashake.com/dog/second-dog-introducing-a-second-dog#play-time

I just brought home a 14 week shiba inu and we are on night 2. She is eating and drinking but refuses top play inside or take treats. Whenever I take her outside she becomes a completely different dog. She becomes crazy playful and full of energy. How can I get her to be comfortable inside the house?

Hmmm, does she act the same way in other inside locations? How did she act when you picked her up from the breeder’s home? Do you know what type of training the breeder used? Have there been any dogs that stayed in your house in the recent past?

If there are other dog/cat smells in the house, that could make a puppy a bit uncertain. Another thing that comes to mind is that if she has had negative experiences “inside” in the past and only good experiences “outside”, then she may naturally be more relaxed outside. However, since it has only been a couple of days, she may just need more time to get comfortable.

Dog behavior is very context dependent, so it is difficult to say without knowing more of the surrounding context.

Hi my name is Pazong, I have a 7 week old siberian husky and she has been crying every single night and I couldn’t get to sleep at all. And she has been breathing heavyly when she is about to go to sleep also. She would howl and cry all night. I was wondering how long does this crying and making noise end does it go for like a week or two weeks?

Hello. I just introduced a new puppy to my adult dog. She tolerates her. Today after i left (im the one my dog listens to) she started running at her full force. My roommate seperated them. When i came home i noticee mybadult dog was staring at her too ling and it was difficult to read her intention. It kind of looks like she wants to play with her.. Isteppe in and seperatee them. Any advice? Adult dog is about 5 puppy is 2 months old

What helps with my dogs is to set up clear dog-to-dog interaction rules. In this way, I can slowly teach my puppy what are acceptable ways of interaction with my resident dogs, and my other dogs also know what behaviors are acceptable and what behaviors are not.

During the initial training period, I make sure to always supervise my puppy when she interacts with my other dogs. This allows me to teach her play rules, manage her excitement level, and stop her from disturbing my other dogs when they have had enough and just want to rest. If I cannot supervise, I put puppy in her play pen.

I also try to create as many positive experiences as I can between my new puppy and my other dogs.

In terms of play, what helped with my dogs is to set up clear play rules and supervise closely. I also have my Husky puppy on-leash so that she can’t run-off and start a game of chase. That was when she got hurt because one of my adult dogs collided with her. In this way, I can be right there to slow things down and manage their excitement level.

What do you do with your puppy before he is crate trained at night? We just got an 8 week old pup and introduced him to the crate fine. I slowly closed the door and waited for him to notice. I waited for him to stop whining and let him out. We let him sleep with us the first night and everything went great. The next night we put him in the crate and he has cried every night since. It lasts pretty much all night. We don’t know what we are supposed to do? We take him out to potty every 3-4 hours. He isn’t hungry or thirsty. He just wants to be close to us. We are scared an accident may happen in our bed and we know he isn’t supposed to be sleeping with us anyway. What did we do wrong? Should we just give him more time? He has been doing this for two nights now. It sounds awful and we get barely any sleep.

I sleep with my puppy the first few nights – on the floor, in a sleeping bag. I do not want her on the bed because she can hurt herself if she falls down or wants to jump down from the bed. I tethered her to me (on the floor), so that when she needs to go, she would wake me up.

After a few days, we had progressed more in crate training, so I tethered her to her crate, which is in my bedroom and close to the bed. She can see us and smell us from her sleeping area, so that helps her feel more safe and secure. I like having my dogs sleep in the bedroom with me, and it also helps with bonding.

i had this issue with my 10 week old puppy. she could not stand to be away and had become accustomed to being with me on my bed. i had to tire him out completely with very long play hours until he was virtually falling asleep and then try keeping puppy in the crate but beside your bed. if that doesn’t work try putting puppy’s mattress and bedding down beside your own bed. my puppy kept jumping up onto my own bed so i put him in a harness with a long leash tied to the bed leg. DO NOT tie the leash to the collar. harness only. and never leave puppy alone tied up or they may strangle themselves by getting tangled up.my puppy spent the first, second and part of third night resisting and trying to jump onto the bed and crying to be let on only to realise it was futile but was comforted by the fact that he was still with me and not all alone. then after a few weeks of that i crated him outside my room and slept there for a few nights beside his crate eventually leaving once he had fallen asleep to my own room. eventually they stop minding

Me and my partner are getting a shiba puppy next year from a great breeder and I have a few questions now which I think are best answered by experts

We will get the puppy when it is aged about 9 weeks. I wonder how long we should wait until we start to:

(1) train it not to bite; (2) get it used to be on its own (for short periods of time); and (3) itroduce it to new things like roads, new humans, public transport, etc.?

Also, do you think it is okay for a grown-up shiba to be on its own for a period of 3 hours in the morning (09:30 to 12:30) and 1.5 hours in the afternoon (13:15 to 14:45) if we exercise and play with it intensly while we are at home?

Many thanks for your help already and eep up the great work with your website

1. Puppy biting I start bite training with my puppies pretty much as soon as I get them. I also do bite inhibition training with all of my dogs. This teaches them to control the force of their bites, especially when interacting with people. It was very useful with my Shiba puppy.

2. Alone time I also do crate training and alone time training as soon as possible. I make sure to start small, go slowly (at a pace that Puppy is comfortable with), keep sessions short, and keep things positive. The key thing while training my puppy is to help build his confidence, and to help him associate his crate and alone time with calm and positive experiences.

My Shiba, Sephy, got a bit anxious of being alone when he was young. However, after some desensitization work and careful management, he learned to be a lot more calm when by himself. We have left him alone for 4-5 hours before and he has been copacetic with it.

3. Socialization and outside walks For outside walks, I waited until my Shiba was fully vaccinated. Puppies still have developing immune systems, so they are very susceptible to infection if they come in contact with a sick dog, or with contaminated poop, water, etc.

We did early socialization in the house, in supervised puppy classes where they checked all puppies for vaccination records, and in supervised puppy play sessions at a good local daycare (where they also checked all puppies for vaccination records).

Hope this helps. Post us some pictures of your puppy when you get him/her!

I have one Rottweiler puppy 31 days purchased my puppy back leg is propperly not working he is sleeped is hearth legs not gud postion I think he is peralised so plz give me a good solutions treatment ..after my puppy back leg is working tell me

I recently adopted a rescue puppy. He is a german rottweiler/french mastiff and great dane mix puppy. I think he is small for what he is mixed with 7 weeks and maybe 6.5 pounds. He is very smarty learned sit in 4 days:-) He started out with a healthey appetiate now it seems to be slacking,his poop isn’t solid nor is it completly runny. He has been playful and active but seemed a lil more sleepy today. My husband says he is fine and I’m just fretting. Am I just worring over nothing?

I am the worrier type too. I still worry about my dogs whenever I notice any changes. My partner is less of a worrier type, so we balance each other out.

In terms of poop, my dogs often had soft poop (not runny) in the beginning. I think a big part of it had to do with changing food and possibly also the environment. Over-feeding can also cause some digestive distress and soft poop. I always give my vet a call whenever I am concerned. They are good about telling me what to look out for, and they have the health history of my puppy, so they know what seems abnormal.

How long have you had him? What is he currently eating? Is it very different from what he was eating at the rescue? Is the amount he is eating also very different?

In general, I think being vigilant is a good thing because I always catch things early.

Big hugs to your puppy! I am glad that he has found such a good forever home.

We have got a 3 month old malamute husky cross he is fab at everything from potty training to not bitin our only problem is he still won’t sleep through the nite with out gettin up 2 or 3 times howlin and crying! We have tried everything we can think of and now were out of ideas…….!!

How long have you had him? Does he sleep with you or by himself? What was his previous situation like? Was he with his siblings and mother? What things have you tried?

When I get a new puppy, I usually sleep with her at night, especially in the first few days. A new puppy has just been separated from her mother and litter-mates, so she will be anxious and lonely in the beginning. In addition, her entire environment has just changed, so everything is new and a bit scary.

With both my Sibe puppies, their breeder gave me blankets that smell like their littermates, and that helped with the transition. Sleeping with me also helped. After a bit, I slowly trained my puppy to be comfortable in her crate. Then, I let her sleep in her crate, in the bedroom with me, close to the bed. What works well with my puppy is to always start small, and then slowly build up the challenge. In this way, she gains confidence, builds trust with me, and becomes less anxious.

Now that both my Huskies are older, they prefer to sleep downstairs where they have more freedom. My Shiba still likes sleeping with us in the bedroom.

Hi there! A friend of mine recommended this method to help keep puppies calm during their first couple of nights: Get an item that smells like you or their litter such as a blanket and then they have now come out with a blanket with a heartbeat. The heartbeat is comforting because it makes them feel like they aren’t alone. I’m not sure what it is called, but my friend swears by this method. Then as the puppy gets used to sleeping by herself, you can turn the heart beat off to wean them into really sleeping alone.

Yeah, I got a blanket that smells like the litter, as well as a favorite (but safe) toy from the breeder of both my Huskies. I think it helps with the transition.

Heartbeat pillows can help as well because it produces a calm and repetitive sound. Some people play calm music, or make a recording of a calm heartbeat sound, and play that close-by. This may be a safer alternative because heartbeat pillows contain batteries and mechanical parts that a puppy can get to through chewing.

I always supervise to make sure that the items are very safe for my puppy, and he does not chew on them. Some puppies may chew and tear off pieces of material, which can subsequently become a choking hazard. Supervision is always key with puppies.

First few nights, I usually sleep with my puppy. I don’t get much sleep, but cuddling with a puppy is really the best.

hi i just got a new yorkie puppy ( non teacup ) he is a 5 month old male . At the store he was shy and when we got home he was still shy we took for a walk but we wouldnt walk he eats and drinks fine but why is he not walking or running or playing ?

A new puppy or dog will be somewhat stressed and anxious in the beginning because everything has just changed – his environment, all the people around him, his routine, and everything else. I would be very anxious too.

What helps with my dog is to create as much certainty as possible. 1. I give him quiet time and space so that he can relax and adjust whenever he needs it.

2. I do trust building exercises and I always try to stay very calm around him. This article from the aspca has good information on how to help a new shy dog.

3. I set up a fixed routine and a consistent set of rules. This creates certainty, which helps to reduce stress.

4. I start small, and go in very small steps so that he learns to enjoy activities with me. For example, with walking, I start with collar and leash desensitization exercises (if needed). Then I first start walking with him inside the house where it is more quiet and safe. Once he enjoys doing this, we move to the backyard, then onto the front lawn, quiet parts o the neighborhood, and so on. I start small, manage his environment, and go at a pace that my dog is comfortable with. In this way, I maximize success, which helps him to build confidence and helps to build trust.

With my Husky puppy, two things matter most in terms of her behavior towards me-1. My own energy If I am angry, frustrated, fearful, excited, or otherwise not-calm, my puppy will pick up on my energy and get more crazy herself. To help my puppy stay calm, I needed to stay calm myself and control my own inner energy.

2. My response When a puppy jumps or play-bites with us, our instinct is to shout at her, move away, or push her away with our arms and legs. This creates a lot of noise and motion, which usually gets my puppy even more excited, and she will jump and bite even more. From her point of view –

Jumping + biting = Get a lot of attention and get to play a fun wrestling game.

What helped me with my Husky puppy is to- a) Learn all that I can about dog behavior and dog training, b) Observe my puppy closely to see what motivates her and learn to properly communicate with her, c) Come up with a plan to redirect or retrain undesirable behaviors. At the same time I make sure to encourage good behaviors.

Here is a bit more on how I trained my Husky puppy. In the beginning, my puppy did not know that people have soft skins and that she needs to control the force of her bites, and be less rough with people. I had to teach her what my people-rules are, and motivate her to follow those rules. Get your dad or mom’s help on this, and make sure that training is both fun and safe.

Hi, my name’s Maria and I just bought a female husky like a month ago and everything is good except for the biting part I think she knows I’m her alpha but she still bites me a lot. When she looks at me she puts her head down even if shes not on her kennel. We’ve had our starring contest and I win but when I pet her all she does is biting play. Sheknows my two youngest boys are a little scared of her. And she bites harder on them. I have been trying to search for answers or comments I’ve tried a few but it’s not really working. What should I do with her. I’m not giving up on her just want to know from someone experienced. Thanks

All puppies bite when the play. They will grow out of it eventually but untill then I just just firmly tell her no then stop playing for a little while. As she gets older I will actually put my hand over her mouth and tell her no. Not around her mouth, just over her muzzle so she can get away but she knows I am talking about her biting. I praise her when she stops biting. Another aproach is to not play with her where she can get at your hands. always have a toy that is an acceptable bite toy. Of course accidents happen and you can gently reprimand her, stop playing for a little then go right back to playing. It will take a while, their little baby brains will learn through repitition. I like to compare them to human babies, I don’t expect them to learn certain things till they reach a certain age, same with puppies.

Get her a tuggy rope so the kids can play tug with her while you supervise. Good luck and grats on the new puppy.

Your puppy and doggies are adorable! I just got a 12-week old Bichon Frise puppy. Her name is Sassy. Thank goodness, she’s already crate broken… The challenge is getting her house broken. I just got her two days ago. I’ve taken her out several times in the mornings when she wakes up and about a half hour after she eats… Though, she’s been successful a couple of times outside, she has made some boobies inside… I’ve got puppy pads near her crate … but, she always skip them and use the carpet… Not sure when she’ll get it… I’m not too confident that I’m training her correctly…

I need advice! I have a boxer mix and a lab mix, both 4 years old. They get along great together. On Friday my husband and I got a puppy and they have been so mean towards her. My boxer mix who usually loves to play with every dog at the dog park is acting extremely scared of her and is growling. Same for my lab mix. I have had other dogs over at our house And theyve never acted that way. I’ve tried having them sniff the puppy while she’s on her back and they’re not interested. The puppy wants to play but they growl at her. I’m afraid they’re gonna bite her,and not accept her. I really thought my boxer mix would love her and play with her.we have been giving the other dogs more attention and have been trying to praise them when they are waging their tail and petting them together with the puppy. What can I do? Help please, I’m desperate! Thank you

Some things that helped when I introduced puppy Lara to my other two dogs- 1. I ensure that all interactions are positive or at worst neutral. 2. I don’t force my existing dogs to interact with or be in the same area as my new puppy. I let them decide on their own when they want to approach and when not. I keep puppy Lara away from my other dogs and do not let her disturb them – until they are relaxed and ready. 3. I make it *very very rewarding* for my dogs when they come near the new puppy on their own, are calm and relaxed. 4. I go group obedience training and create other positive supervised activities. This helps my dogs to view the new puppy as a positive addition into their lifestyle. 5. I supervise puppy Lara very closely. When I cannot supervise, I put her briefly in her puppy enclosure.

Husky Shania accepted Lara right away, but I think it took about 5-7 days before Sephy was really relaxed around her.

It’s normal for the older dogs to not want anything to do with the new puppy. She’s not part of their pack…. yet. As shibashake says, don’t try to force the interaction, they will slowly adjust to the puppy and things will get better. My two older dogs wanted nothing to do with poor Luna either for the first 2 weeks. We just let them do as they pleased as long as they didn’t get so aggressive with her as to hurt her. She would run over to play with them and both would skitter away as if a bear had jumped out at them. It’s actually funny to watch two grown dogs running from a puppy. I kept the puppies food away from the adults food. This did double duty of my being able to keep the older dogs out of it and keep an eye on how much Luna ate every day. I free feed so Luna had access to the older dogs dish once she found out where it was. My dogs are not food aggressive so fights at the dish were not a problem.

Like you, I thought my border collie cross would love the puppy and take her under her care but she was the one who skittered fastest. The chihuahua would stay up out of reach on the couch and growl at her if she got too close to her but now they all play together and I have no worries about them being mean to her.

I expect the normal discipline from the older dogs. They are helping her to learn pack manners like not walking all over us, clawing at us or nipping us. The chi sounds like she’s ripping her throat out but it’s just the way she plays. Have patience, things will work out if you let it go at it’s own pace.

Wow.. thank you for all the insight. We got a 6 week old husky/aussie a few weeks ago and love her to death. She is now playing vigorously with our other two dogs, border collie cross and chihuahua. She has yet to learn their boundries though, she lunges up at them when they are sleeping on the couch and scares them awake. It’s funny but one day they are going to say “enough of this nonsense” and nail her good instead of snarling and snapping at the air in front of her nose. BcX is 2 and chi is 1 so they are not too old for fun with puppy. Outside it’s a free for all of fun with Luna (puppy) in the middle. Inside Luna is great but for the whining. I have never had such a vocal dog. She walks around most of the time whining and when we get down to play with her, she wanders off and leaves you just sitting there with the toys around you. Hubby says she’s telling us stories. lol

She has very few accidents in the house, my son and I keep a close eye on her. After she has woke up, finished eating or playing we take her outside for potty then she gets to play for a while with her older doggy family. We can stay out for hours with her running around with them and she still whines when it’s time to come in. lol We stay out as long as it takes for her to go and praise her vocally for the good job she has done. She just looks at us like we are nuts for praising what she has to do anyway.

As with all our dogs we call them to us and fuss over them then let them go so they don’t associate coming to us as time to go inside. We find it’s much easier to get them to come if we have some dried liver treats to reward them with at the start then work it up to just praise and release. She really hates coming inside so this really works well for her. Sometimes though she turns and looks at us like she’s saying “Are you nuts? Not time to go in yet!”

She really hates it when she can’t see us. She can climb the stairs to the second floor but won’t go all the way up yet and the bathroom is up there soooo when we come downstairs again it’s like we have been gone for hours instead of a few minutes. If she is sleeping and wakes up to one of us gone, she will trot around the house whining till she finds that person then climbs all over them with joy.

This is my first husky of any kind. Only ever knew one person with one and that was over 30 yrs ago and I remember him telling me that Sarge was smart but he was a handful even as an adult. I don’t understand the constant whining, vet says everything is good. I am thinking this could just be a husky thing and she will outgrow the need to tell stories all the time.

I had a puppy – that I brought home 2 weeks ago. I’ve had similar feelings and I’m dead tired. Fortunately, he started sleeping through the night the first night and loves his crate – falling asleep right away. I do have some puppy blues and wonder if I’m cut out for motherhood! I’m like when will this end, haha. People keep telling me he’s amazing and does so much for his age, but when you’re the one dealing with the day to day it can seem like it will never end. I did a ton of research and what not beforehand – oh well!

Fortunately, he started sleeping through the night the first night and loves his crate – falling asleep right away.

Hahaha, that is great and also very adorable.

I did a ton of research and what not beforehand

That sounds like a great mom to me.

I think the first few weeks were the most difficult with Lara, because of the potty training, and also making sure she got along with Shiba Sephy. After Lara was potty trained, she needed less supervision, and things got a lot more fun and less stressful.

Hello! We just got a Shiba inu puppy 2 days ago. He is about 9 weeks old but I’m a lil worried because I think he is not eating or drinking a lot. We are trying to potty train him so we just feed him 2 times a day but leave his water in his crate. The thing is that he doesn’t seem very hungry and he never finishs his food he eats and I guess when he is full he stops. Today he drank water just once and went to pee only once. Still he hasn’t had any accidents in the house. My husband took him out last night before bed time and again around five because he started crying but he did potty when out. I took him out this morning and he did pee. Again we took him out at lunch time but he didn’t pee this time. Should I be worried? Is that normal for a dog his age? He doesn’t seem to be in any kind of pain when trying to pee but I find it strange that he doesn’t pee that much. Thank you

What food is he currently eating? Unlike my Huskies, Shiba Sephy is pretty picky about his food. He is also allergic to wheat, so we go grain-free with all of our dogs. If Sephy is not really hungry, he won’t eat lower priority food such as kibble. Sometimes, he will also hold-out, in the hope that he will get something better. Sephy does not drink as much, or pee as often as my Huskies.

Has puppy gone for his initial vet checkup? How is his energy level? Does his stool and urine look normal? Is there anything else that seems unusual?

When in doubt, I usually give my vet office a call and talk with the vet tech. They can be very helpful.

I got some of the dry food he was eating from the breeder, (I think it was Solid Gold) but he didn’t seem very interested so I checked here for some advice and saw about the allergies so I got him Blue Wilderness (dry food-no grain) for puppies, now I’m starting to mix it so he doesn’t get an upset stomach from the change. He is eating a liltle more now. He eats in the morning and around 6 again. His stool and pee seem normal. The only thing I noticed is that is he scrathing a lot, like he is itchy. I checked his skin and he has some white flakes . I was researching and found that it could be the heat in my apartment.

He got his first shots from the breeder and I’m planning on taking him to the vet next week for his checkup.

My dogs have some white flakes too, from time to time. It is little bits of dry skin that come off from scratching and playing. I think some white flakes is pretty normal.

In terms of scratching, there could be many reasons for it. Is he scratching at only particular areas or all over? Is it all through the day or only at particular times of the day? Is there any hair loss?

Sephy itched a lot when he was young because of a food allergy. He would pretty much itch all over. Shania had itching and slight hair-loss when she was young due to skin parasites. The itching in this case was only around her face and feet, where she first got the parasites. Here is a bit more on dog itching and scratching.

Big hugs to puppy! Let us know how things go with his vet checkup. He is a lucky Shiba to have found such a good mom.

Hi Shibashake! Thank you for taking the time to reply He usually itches in his back at the base of his tail (that’s where is saw the white flakes), on the top part of his paws and on his sides. ( I guess that’s pretty much all over lol) Yesterday I saw him scrathing his face with the carpet. I’ll let you know what the vet said. Thank you for thinking of me as a good mom <3 trying to be the best for my boy hehehe :p

Her pups are 2 week old pit bull puppies.there mom 3 yrs old this is her first litter she is a great mom to them and she is like my daughter and she lovrs my kids but i wanted to bring one in for a hour but i didnt know if thats healthy or not help please?moylo

I am not a breeder so I do not have experience in this area. It is probably best to contact an experienced club breeder about this and get his/her advice. Most breeders that I have met are very into their breed and are happy to help.

I just got a 7week old BEAUTIFUL siberian husky puppy sunday. I am having a few problems that i need help with. Hes great about using the bathroom outside but when i get off work everday hes pooed EVERYWHERE! Im worried him being alone all day is going to force us to have to get rid of him. I want what is in his best interest but ive been told huskys are fine being in a kennel for the day. I just moved to a rural new area 2 months ago and have noone to take him out during the day. I also work an hour away. He also whines allllllllll night..literally, he does not sleep and whines so much that he lost his voice for an entire day. Im absolutly in love with this puppy but i really need some advice on what to do. For anyone who has answers i would appreciate it so very much. Thank you!!!

Where is the puppy during work hours? Puppies do not know where to do their business initially, so some potty training will be necessary. Potty training will require a fair amount of time and supervision.

I want what is in his best interest but ive been told huskys are fine being in a kennel for the day.

Dogs are pack animals and need/want to be with their family. This is especially true for a younger dog, and even more true of a Siberian Husky. Sibes are an affectionate breed and like interacting with people. Both my Sibes are happiest when they get to enjoy the company of people, preferably together with exploring the great outdoors, combined with special stops for hunting and digging.

A puppy needs to be potty trained, obedience trained, and needs structured positive activities with human supervision. The Siberian Husky is a very high energy, independent breed and will need more structured exercise, more training, and more supervision than most other breeds. A Husky puppy needs supervised time to get used to his new environment, to learn house rules, and bond with his new family.

He also whines allllllllll night..literally, he does not sleep and whines so much that he lost his voice for an entire day.

How much exercise does he get daily? Where does he spend the night – inside or outside? Near to his people or by himself? The continuous whining and pooping everywhere could also be signs of separation anxiety. Dogs may also get stressed from uncertainty and large changes in their environment.

My Huskies needed a fair amount of supervision and training when they were young. Now that they are older, and know house rules, they require less management. However, I make sure to walk them for about 1.5 hours every day, we continue to do obedience training, we play in the backyard, and they also have vigorous wrestling sessions (supervised) with each other in the mornings and evenings.

A Siberian Husky requires more people time because of their high energy and their people loving nature.

Hi I have a 14 week old female husky mya she is brilliant I also have a 2 yr old husky. .. ive noticed that when the pup aits she doesn’t fully straighten he front right paw and bends it slightly she isnta limping and walks/ runs fine with no limping at all and she hasnt hurt it either just wondering what this could be it doesn’t bother but its worrying me and my partner has any one gor any ideas? ? Thanks

I just found a 6 to 7 week old puppy and I have a 8 month old corgi mix how can I get my older dog to start warming up to him and playing with him or even being around him without trying to bite him and they both are boys and this is new to me my first dog was a girl he (the corgi)liked her soon as the meet but we shower them both love I just don’t know what to do

Here are some things that helped when introducing my new Sibe puppy, Lara, to my other two dogs- 1. I established clear dog-to-dog interaction rules. Then I slowly teach those rules to Lara. In this way, she knows what to expect from my other dogs and vice versa. 2. I establish a fixed routine and consistent house rules. In this way, Lara knows when play time is and more importantly, when it is time to rest. 3. I make sure that Lara does not disturb my other dogs when they want to rest. A puppy is usually very energetic and will want to play all of the time. This is not the case with my older dogs. 4. I make sure to create positive experiences between Lara and my other dogs. In this way, they will see her as an enhancement to their lifestyle. Similarly, I supervise and carefully manage them so there are no negative experiences. 5. I supervise play sessions and throw in many breaks. This allows me to manage their excitement level, so that “play” doesn’t become too intense and turn into something else.

Thank you they have warmed up to each other more everyday so as of the 21 this will be day five and of us having him and Riley (my corgie) act like that’s his son sometimes he is still a little uneasy on the new puppy being on the bed with him because that’s where he sleep but its getting better everyday less fights and more playing so thanks a lot

TIRED! I’m too old to be a 10 week old Aussie mom. What am I doing? Lost my Britt, 6 on Nov. 23…so it was now or never since I have a 9 yr. old Brittany and 2 yr old Siamese. We are all acclimated…sleep through the night (together) but puppy keeps me alert! So sleepy. Me. He is asleep right now. There is a dog God. Spent the afternoon building a fortress(es) around a room so he doesn’t shred anymore cords. He has a dozen of toys other puppies would love but he’s a bundle of energy! — Tired and Infatuated

I got a puppy today, and i’m so exited! Hazel has had a couple accidents. She hates walking to the backyard! She’s a german shepard/lab mix, and very laid back, though it might just be because shes tired. Hazel is currently conked out on the rug – it was a long day for her, as nothing came with her, and we spent nearly an hour and a half in petsmart.

Hello. I have a puppy I had her for about a week now she 8 weeks old, she loves me and my boyfriend but the landlord wont let us keep her anymore, not because she loud and barks or is staining the rugs, we actually have no clue why, but I need advice she is gunna have to stay at my parents house for now until we find a new place will she love us the same since she wont be sleeping with us yet another person for months? I mean we will have her all day when we arent working just at night we wont have her at night anymore breaks my heart but it will hurt more if she dont love us the same way. Im so worried.

Sorry to hear about the landlord’s decision. I think dogs bond with all the people who spend time positively interacting with them.

It sounds like you will still get to spend a lot of time with puppy, and it is great that the puppy gets to spend time with your parents as well. This just means there are more people for puppy to play with, more people for puppy to love, and more fun things for puppy to do.

Thank you so much for that article made me feel so good, cause I already do half of it! makes me feel like im a good pet owner, and my puppy gets to see her mom and dad almost every week and they play, The only thing that worries me is if she wont obey me. cause she don’t see me as the pack leader.

In terms of pack leadership, what works well with my dogs is resource management training. Essentially, I teach them that the best way to get what they want, is to do something simple for me first. This is also known as Nothing in Life is Free or NILIF.

So I just got a siberian husky pup who’s ten weeks, because my girlfriend’s mother used to breed them. So I have been trying to do as much research as I could on the breed because I have never owned one. After having my pup for the last week I thought he was extremely stubborn, but after reading the other comments below I realize that he is actually a very good puppy. the only problems I have noticed is that he has a slight problem paying attention to his name, he is stubborn at times, pulls on his leash, but does good when I do a fast paced walk, but the biggest is that he has many accidents in the house. I take him out many times after he eats, plays, or wakes up, but he seems to wait until he comes back inside before he goes which is anoying. Still compared to all the other stories I have read he is very good and learning very well.

my lab pit mix does the same thing however i have found that if you get a little piece of poo and leave it in the area where you want him to go this will help. I take my puppy out about every 1.5 to 2 hours whether she is awake, asleep, eating, whatever. I make sure and take her out once before bed for about 20-30 minutes just to make sure. you can always out wait your puppy because their bladders are small and they lack the ability to hold it for very long.

I just wanted to thank you for all the articles you’ve written thus far, you’ve helped me a lot in avoiding the myths my friends tried to teach me, such as taking dog and shove his nose in his poop, etc…

What I wanted to ask was, I went with your advice on the schedule, and everything worked out brilliantly yesterday. The fact that Enzo is a Shiba Inu helps a lot, as he doesn’t like to poop or pee where he sleeps or plays.

Today things are good so far, but I did the silly mistake of walking up in a bit of a panic, and took him to pee straight away, forgot to give him his breakfast, now he took it AFTER coming back home.

He doesn’t seem to be in the need to poop, so I’ll wait 2 or 3 hours before taking him outside again, but if I do this mistake again, would it be costly? Or should I always feed him before taking him outside? How quickly to puppies and dogs digest anyways?

Thanks for your time Shibashake! Will be waiting for more articles like these.

I don’t think missing now and then should be a problem. Occasional small and slight changes to his routine, does not really bother Sephy.

How quickly to puppies and dogs digest anyways?

What I have read is that it can take up to 24 hours or more to go through the entire digestive system. There will be variability depending on type of food, intestinal pH, etc. According to Wikipedia, food stays about 4-6 hours in the dog’s stomach.

Shiba Shake! I’m getting desperate. We just got a new Siberian Husky puppy who is 10 weeks old. It happened quickly (for me, my husband had been thinking about it) and I continually question the wisdom of such a move (although he seems firm on it being a good idea.) For a short while, maybe about a day or so, I found the Dog Whisperer and thought all my problems would be answered and I could have… well, maybe not a perfect dog, but a dog who would hopefully not chew on the stuff she wasn’t supposed to chew and not dig where she wasn’t supposed to dig. I’m still reconciling myself to the shedding and the pulling and the rest of it. And that’s when she finally grows up.

And then I discovered that Cesar’s training might not be right for my puppy (in just the two days, I think I’ve discovered that the discipline bit made her more likely to bite and the simple redirect… while she wasn’t fooled… seems to send a better message to her) and that his training way is supposed to be done by professionals and isn’t always advisable… leaving me at my wit’s end again.

And it’s not that she’s bad. We’re still in the first 10 days of hell and this is my first dog and my first puppy and my first husky (I know I know, bad idea). Her name is Luna, like I said 10 weeks, I believe she’s medium level energy, and she’s 18 pounds.

So now that I’ve totally confused myself on how to train a dog because there are so many conflicting resources, I really want to know, what should I do?

On walks, she pulls forward or pulls back. We currently have a harness that we leave on her during the day and the leash attaches at the back. I knew she was going to be active and wanted to run with her eventually, so I thought that would be a good position for running. Bad idea? I noticed you said you take the harness off when at home and use a collar. We are obviously still trying to house train her, so would the harness only be used for walks? I’ll need something easy to access to take her out to the backyard as it is currently not completely fenced in. The harness is also a little big for her. She can slip out if we pull the wrong way and she can get to it to chew on it… we were hoping she’d grow in pretty fast as she was already so big at 10 weeks.

Also, she has her “demon dog” phases. After a nap or even after a walk, she’ll sometimes have so much energy that in taking her back from her potty break, she’ll be jumping and grabbing the leash and nipping my clothes and sometimes growling. When I get her back inside, she’ll tear through the house, chewing on the carpet, her harness, my clothes, my hand, whatever is the closest. I keep trying to redirect her to one of her chew toys, but that never lasts for long and I mostly end up freaking out about this terror puppy until she finally calms down and sleeps. What the heck do I do? I don’t really like the uncontrollable energy as it often seems to lead to inappropriate behavior (chewing on the wrong things, nipping) and I really really don’t like the nipping. I want her to grow up to be a very well behaved dog that won’t bite anyone. Scolding makes her want to bite back more. People say the energy bursts is a puppy thing, and I’ll deal with it then, but I want to be able to eliminate the more destructive and dangerous aspects. Also, what really works for this? I’ve heard to ignore them when they’re jumping and nipping, but that only focuses on the behavior directed toward me… and doesn’t always save my clothes. I tried to redirect just now back to a chew toy and she just came out of nowhere (after I had turned away) and bit my hand. Call for attention? What should I do? I really don’t like getting bitten and really want to discourage it.

We have a crate which will be plenty big enough for her as an adult (I’m afraid it’s actually too big) and no dividers, although she’s had only one accident (and that was kind of our fault, we had to leave for a period longer than she probably could take too soon after we got her). She’s actually doing decent with it. We still have to use treats to get her to walk in on her own and she’ll whine for a short bit, and we still try to wake up and take her out when we hear her up at night… just cause everything says to take puppies out when they wake up. Then we’ll bring her back in and put her back into the crate. We can sleep decently like this.

As far as house training, she keeps having accidents. Some I think are excited ones because we’ll have just recently taken her out and she’ll be hyper hyper and then squatting before we even see it. I thought it was “after” play I was supposed to take her out, but this happens in the middle. She only pees on the carpet, usually the one in the study. She actually just pooped in front of the back door which I find really weird and annoying. She hasn’t pooped all day even though I keep taking her out and I just took her out about fifteen minutes ago and now she decides to poop.

As far as play time… how do I play with her? It’s winter and the back yard isn’t fenced. She has no interest in fetching the ball we throw and I’m not sure if she is actually enjoying tug-of-war and seems to move from that to nipping pretty easy. Am I allowed to let her win it? Hide the treats in the toy thing? If we aren’t walking outside, she seems perfectly content to sit down and chew on whatever she’s found, but I don’t think that’s really playing. I don’t like playing with her at home because she’s usually only interested when she’s hyper and moves to biting. It seems obvious she doesn’t respect me at all, and pays better attention to my husband without biting him as much.

You say to sometimes reward with toys and discipline by taking them away… but a certain amount of toys always needs to be out, right? Like a chew toy to redirect her toward?

And one question I keep asking… this method sounds like a lot of work… and having a puppy is already a lot of work… will I ever be able to do anything else with my life? Or am I stuck puppysitting until I’m stuck dogsitting until whatever her lifespan is? Can they finally be taught not to chew on stuff they aren’t supposed to chew on if unsupervised? I’m not expecting it in the early months or until at least after teething, and I’d probably still use the kennel if I left, but at this point I’d just like to be able to turn my back or use my computer for a little bit without having to worry.

I don’t think I’m prepared for all this, but I already have the puppy, so I need to get prepared.

I currently suck at the calm-assertive thing. I just get so frustrated.

Yeah, I also had a difficult time with Sephy in the beginning. It was the worst in the beginning, because I didn’t really know what was the best way to respond to Sephy when he started acting crazy – which seemed like almost all of the time. I didn’t have time to eat, didn’t sleep well, and was under a lot of stress. My neighbors, people at the vet, vet techs, Sephy’s breeder, and various friends gave me all kinds of conflicting advice. It was not good.

Several things helped –1. I started doing a lot of reading on dog behavior and dog training.

Most dog training and behavior modification techniques are based on conditioning. There is classical conditioning and operant conditioning. Here is my understanding of how dogs learn. Here is a brief description of operant conditioning.

Within operant conditioning, there are reward based techniques and aversive based techniques (this is where most disagreements arise). In addition, timing, energy, execution, and surrounding context are also very important in dog training. These things can be difficult to get exactly right without someone to show us in real-time.

Where I got my information- a) I read books by behavioral psychologists, especially studies related to dog and animal behavior. b) There is also useful information on the various SPCA and Humane Society sites. c) I got a lot of useful information from other Shiba Inu owners who have faced similar issues with their dogs.

If I considered everything at once, it was easy to get overwhelmed. Therefore, I just focused on two or three of the most important issues. I researched all of them, and came up with a detailed plan on how to respond to each.

If Sephy does A, I would do A1; if Sephy then responds with B, I would do B1, etc.

Once I had a good multi-step plan, I was able to focus on it when Sephy starts with his craziness. This helps to keep me more calm and more in control.

3. I set up a fixed schedule and followed the NILIF program.

NILIF stands for Nothing in Life is Free. Is is a nice framework for motivating my dogs to follow house rules and to teach them that they get what they want most, by doing work for me. Here is more on how I practice NILIF with my dogs.

You say to sometimes reward with toys and discipline by taking them away… but a certain amount of toys always needs to be out, right? Like a chew toy to redirect her toward?

I have a bunch of lower priority toys out that my dogs play with whenever they want. However, I have rules about toy play, and one of them is that they don’t steal from each other. I only leave them very safe chew toys. Soft toys I only use under supervision.

Also, when I give or reward my dog with food or a toy, it is his to do with as he chooses, for as long as he wants. It general, it is not a good idea to take food or items that are given as rewards back – especially by force. This will teach our dogs to protect his stuff because when we come near, we may take it away. This leads to food and resource aggression.

When my dog misbehaves, I may take away a privilege that he enjoys, e.g. affection from people, access to the backyard. I may also withhold rewards that he has failed to earn. When he is done playing with a toy, I may store it away. However, I do not take back previously given items by force.

this method sounds like a lot of work… and having a puppy is already a lot of work… will I ever be able to do anything else with my life?

Heh, yeah, it kindda felt like that with Sephy in the beginning, but it got better. I started learning a lot more about dog behavior and dog body language, I started to see where Sephy was coming from, and I began to understand why he does what he does.

Having a plan helped me stay calm, and being calm helped Sephy to calm down as well.

Small steps – learn a bit more every day – come up with new plans as necessary – stay calm – and it got better for the both of us.

Hey, I really want a dog, and I KNOW my mom isn’t kidding when she says how much work they are. I even offered to pay for the dog, but not the supplies! The frustrating thing is that she wants a dog, and our conditions at the moment are JUST RIGHT for a new puppy. (sorry for the rant)

@shvana6: Your mom is a hundred percent, absolutely right! A puppy is a lot of work. Never mind the cost of the puppy, think about the expenses you’ll incur for the vet (at least a 100 bucks per visit, and you’ll have to visit MANY MANY times), the licensing, spaying/neutering the puppy, puppy food (which is a lot more expensive than adult food), insurance fees, toys, treats, and obedience classes. Not to mention the time and sleep you will have to give up in order to care for your puppy. I am a new owner of a 4 month old puppy and now that I think about it, owning a puppy is like having a baby, except a baby doesn’t bite. I got my puppy at 9 weeks old and now, after more than a month of sleepless nights, I am now only reconciling the fact that I am 3 grand poorer since my puppy came. I need to walk my puppy at least two times a day (an hour each), even if it’s negative degrees outside. I also wake up at 12am and then 4am just to take it to go potty. Mind you, I’m not regretting anything and I’m not discouraging you from getting a puppy either, but don’t think owning a puppy stops at just the cost of buying one. If you really must get a puppy, the only advice I can give is to consider buying one in the spring or the summer when it’s not too cold to walk it and potty train it.

Our Shiba girl will be 15 years old on April 8th. She is everything ever written about the breed and then some. She continues to entertain us with her never ending drama/comedy act. She has been very healthy and although her hearing is going (I think)she still has her puppy moments where she thumps up the stairs as if she is a mastiff.

Copper and Sebastian arrived here this week, and I have immediately bonded with them and discovered all their “Shiba” quirks…They are so different than my Siberians, I made a really nice kennel for them, and they seem to be adjusting well.

I spend lots of time with them getting them used to being here, and letting them know I care about them, they have not been the trouble I figured they would be, and to be honest, so far , have been a joy to have.

Hi Bruce, Glad to hear that Copper and Sebastian and adjusting so well to their new home.

I would love to hear more about how you think your Shibas are different from your Sibes. When I was looking for my first Sibe, it seemed that the general description for both breeds were pretty similar – independent, strong-willed, not to be left off-leash, etc. However, as you say, once you actually experience both breeds, they are quite different!

Very good question! I think a big part of it was probably me, since I didn’t know how to respond properly to a Shiba. However, I think the breed played a big part as well.

In the beginning, I really thought that Sephy’s temperament was a result of not the most careful breeding. Indeed several trainers told me that Sephy is on the super-Shiba scale. However, the Shiba breeders I have visited told me that he is a typical Shiba. I think the Shiba breeders probably have more experience on this matter.

Comparing my Shiba and Siberians even now, Sephy is a lot more stubborn, less trusting, less food focused, challenges me more, and is frequently testing his boundaries.

He is not necessarily a lot of work, because he has a lot less energy and does not need as much exercise; but he does come up with many original Shiba moves to test us.

Heh, even though a puppy is a lot of work, Lara is much easier than Sephy. I have to put in a lot more work in terms of potty training, but Lara is – 1. A lot less stubborn. 2. She is very food focused which simplifies training. Shibas are less food focused. 3. She is a lot more trusting, a lot easier to groom, and also handle at the vet. It takes a lot more to gain a Shiba’s trust. 4. She is very affectionate, and follows us around everywhere.

Appreciate all the great information provided here, I have learned so much….that said, I have 8 Siberians, and soon to have 2 Shibas…which is why I am writing…

To make the story short, a local animal welfare person contacted me about a couple wanting to find a home for two male Shibas…they didnt have time for them, all the standard excuses. I decided to take a look at them and they are two males about 5 yrs and 6 yrs, father and son…the father is not neutered, the son is.

I have always wanted a Shiba, just wish it had been just one, but decided to take in both of them. The couple agreed to some concessions, having the father neutered, donating the kennel they are in , and wanting to take them back if they dont work out with me.

My visit with the 2 Shibas, immediately taught me they are not like my Siberians, and they cannot be treated the same. All of my Siberians are older dogs, no puppies, and are kenneled and walked every day.

Any advice on introducing the 2 Shibas to my gang?

I realize I am going to have to drastically have a different mindset around the Shibas….

As you have noticed, Shibas tend to be a bit more particular about most things compared to Siberians. When I brought the puppy home, Siberian Shania took to the puppy right away. Shiba Sephy however, took much longer to accept her into his friends and family list.

Unlike Sibes, Shibas have a much stronger protection drive, and as a result, they do not trust as easily.

You probably already know all this, but here are some of the things I did when introducing puppy – 1. Only introduce them one on one. 2. I started with Shania because she is a very submissive dog. 3. Shibas can get protective over toys, food, and food toys. So I made sure there were no toys or food about. 4. I had both Shiba Sephy and puppy on leash just in case. Some Shibas are leash aggressive, so ask the prior owners about this. Even now, Shiba Sephy is on a drag lead. 5. My Shiba is very sensitive about new dogs sniffing his butt. Once he trusts a dog, he is ok with it, but he does not allow new dogs near his sensitive areas. So in the beginning I kept puppy away from his sensitive zones.

I went very slowly and made their time together very positive. I usually get the dogs to do obedience exercises together so that I can reward them when they are together, and get them to work together.

Even with this, it took Shiba Sephy about 1 week before he started to accept new dog into his trust circle. I was a bit worried the first few days, so I am really glad it was just a time issue.

Somehow, we got the most stubborn puppy in a head strong bread. He hates walking on his leash. I hope that it’s only because he’s 12 weeks old (as of tomorrow). Clicker training and hand targeting only get us so far. He only wants to walk on his terms and I’m going to be the last person to give in. So essentially our walks turn into stands.

Any thoughts? Is he too young to really be interested in walks? I really want to drain his energy…

The 180 turn around actually works quite well with Sephy. If he starts to pull I turn around and move in the opposite direction. When he was young and pulled over his given quota, I would just walk on home and try again later. Since he really liked being outside, ending the walk was a big downer for him. He was willing to control his pulling to prolong his outside experience.

In terms of making outside walking more fun I would play the Find-It game with him. I show him I have some chicken and throw it a very short distance away from him and say “Find-It!”. He liked playing this game especially when he was a puppy. When he found it, I would make a big deal of it and reward him. Then I repeat. Once he knows the game, I throw the pieces farther away or close to bushes so it becomes more challenging.

When Sephy was young and not used to the leash I would sometimes let him walk around with it in the house. I only did this under supervision to make sure that the lead did not catch on anything. This gets him used to the leash -weight, smell, etc. With my current puppy I am starting by walking her in the backyard first. Once she gets all her shots I plan to first do short walks with turn-arounds which seems to work well on independent breeds.

Sounds way more intense than our first couple weeks with our new shiba, Raiden. He slept through the night on night one at 8 weeks and only a couple accidents (he’ll be 11 weeks tomorrow).

We’re having a hell of a time on the leash though. He is super stubborn…

Unfortunately, a neighbor gave her dog too much slack last night and he bit Raiden in the leg, leaving him with a small puncture wound. He favored it all night but this morning it was like nothing happened. A quick trip to the vet to get it cleaned up and he’s rockin’ n’ rollin’ again!

Sounds way more intense than our first couple weeks with our new shiba, Raiden.

Yeah, it is mainly the potty training that requires constant supervision. Now that we are getting some sunshine, it is a bit easier because she can be in the backyard by herself for short periods of time. Other than that, frozen Kongs are the BEST thing for puppies. They keep her occupied for long periods of time doing something that she loves – eating!

Unfortunately, a neighbor gave her dog too much slack last night and he bit Raiden in the leg

Wow – it is pretty unusual for an adult dog to cause puncture wounds on a puppy. Usually, adult dogs give puppies a lot of leeway and only correct them vocally or by rolling them onto the ground.

Glad to hear that Raiden recovered so quickly! Ah, the resilience of youth.

Sounds like a rough few days! Thankfully, we’re one whole month in so Kiba is no longer crying at night (though heaven help you if you’re late letting him out in the morning!)

Also, only the one dog, so no puppy/adult dog supervision. We are having a few challenges with my toddler revving puppy up so he can’t help himself but nip – we’re punishing the toddler who DOES understand he’s not supposed to run around screaming, not the puppy who can’t understand hyper energy isn’t what he should do, lol. Time outs work for all little ones.

Potty training a Shiba is easier than a Sibe it sounds like. Though, Kiba HATES the rain – if he knows it’s raining, he won’t go outside, he’ll wait till he’s in, then go in the corner and tell us about it! (Doubtlessly so we’ll clean it up and his house will be pristine again).