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Loewe

locationParis, 2 March 2013

locationParis, 2 March 2013

STUART VEVERS looked to the city of Bilbao on the northern coast of Spain for inspiration when it came to his autumn/winter 2013-14 <a href="http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/loewe" target=""_blank"">Loewe collection - one which moved away from the feminine-sporty styles of last season and moved into more austere terrain.

Vevers took the architectural patchwork of Bilbao's historic buildings and used them as graphic prints and colour blocking on coats and jackets which themselves took on a more graphic sensibility this time - stiffer and more Matrix in shape and styling. Hitchcock hair added to the severity and sharpness here.

But it was loosened up too as sweatshirt shapes in waffly knits and with furry patches sprouting from them stepped out - adding a modern ease. These then progressed to bejewelled hoodies, this season's replacement for the brilliant bomber jackets of last.

Shearling, and huge voluminous amounts of it for coats, made for a contrast to the slick shapes beneath and was quite the antidote to the cold climes of Paris right now.

On the bag front, the house's signature style, the Amazona, got a shearling makeover and there came the introduction of the Amaya, inspired by its already existing Flamenco bag, which formal in shape is an equestrian-inspired number with hardware decoration.