When you order a glass of wine at Vinyl, you get a choice. You can pick from a list of about 34 bottles, the usual way. Or you can opt to design one of your own wine blends, using a combination of wines that Bright makes in Sonoma. On this day, the options were a Sangiovese and a Montepulciano, the two red varieties that are traditionally combined in the rustic wines of Italy’s Abruzzo region.

I took a sip of each. The Sangiovese was lightly tannic, with bright red-cherry notes and fairly zingy acidity. The Montepulciano was fleshier, a lot more tannic and overall more rough-and-tumble; sort of a workman’s wine. I poured 150 milliliters of Sangiovese into the beaker, added 50 milliliters of Montepulciano, swirled it around, and poured a sip or so into my glass. Not bad. Not great, but not bad. A little ragged around the edges. I added another 50 milliliters of Sangiovese and gave it another sip. Getting there, I thought. Definitely getting there.

I expect this to catch on. In the meantime I will try this in my kitchen.