Well, be warned this is not like any other Tuberose you’ve ever smelt before. Especially not the 2 existing Artisan creations Tubereuse which is all buttery, and Chasse Aux Papillons, milder and spicy. So, if you’ve been put off Tuberose by the ‘hothouse Flower’ reputation as experienced in Puigets’ Fracas and FM’s Carnal Flower, or the almost medicinal Tubereuse Criminelle by SL, then it’s worth giving this one a try !

Nuit de Tubereuse is the latest (May 2010) in a line of fragraces created by Betrand Duchaufour for Artisan and carries his signature earthiness. This seems to use all of the Tuberose including the root ! and does begin to smell very vegetal after 4 hours or so. This isn’t a problem for me as I love the underlying dirtier notes in perfumery, especially as rendered by BD. Bloggers keep mentiong Mango and it is indeed one of the notes, however I don’t get this at all. When first applied liberally I fairly sparkled with Pink Pepper along with many unidentifiable notes. This is pretty much what I would’ve expected Mandrgore Poupre to smell like. Another blogger has mentioned a connection between AG/CD’s MP and Les Epices de Passion from Artisan. Me, I’d say it fits very well with the travel series, as it also has an undertone of earth, but not nearly so much as Duchaufours creations.

I find Nuit de Tubereuse rather hard to pin down and will return to this after a few days of wear ! anyway, at least my significant other is still prepared to hug me !!!!

Yes, you did read that right – Nuit de Cellophane. As in a glamourous transparent wrapping for a fragrant bouquet. Or as some blogs would have it ‘a nod to bondage’.

When I first smelt this I thought it resembled Datura Noir. However, on comparison NdC is much lighter/transparent, but they are both hothouse florals. NdC – think gourmet fruit cocktail in a light juice. Everything about this is light/trasparent. This beautiful water/fruit/floral accord is obscured/spoiled by a ‘dirty’ note that just doesn’t seem to fit at all.

I wore this for a few hours but we just didn’t get along sadly. I begin to wonder if SL’s search for minimalism means that he’s just not creating beautiful fragrances these days. The export line all seem to be toned down versions of the original Export Line. However, this one just doesn’t fit at all.

………….and after a few days I found out what it really reminds me of, CK’s Contradiction (that’s where I first smelt the ‘dirty’ note), but with a lot more mystery,panache and elegance.

Here’s the official line:

"Remember those wonderful old movies when the heroine answers a ring at
the door to find a delivery of a sumptuous bouquet of flowers or a spray
of orchids enveloped in cellophane?. She tears off the wrappings and
inhales their wonderful warm, damp scent: here is Serge's latest
fragrance, encapsulating the moment with a sinuous creation of osmanthus,
peach, iris, jasmine and violets all ready to grace a romantic evening for
two".

Oh Heart of Darkness, this is what I thought when I tried this. It is much darker than Noir de Noir, which is uplifted by its floralcy. Amber Absolute is the epitome of Catholic Mass fragrances. I LOVE incense and I found this breathtaking. Darker even than CdG’s Avignon, which sparkles in comparison with Amber Absolute. Much drier than Etro’s Messe de Minuit.

As to amber itself, I’m not that fussed generally although I love Orientals. In this composition it is the one note that lightens the intensity of the Incense. This one I’m keeping !!!

Any incense lovers out there really should try a sample of this magnificent gothic fragrance.

Absolutely incredible fragrance. On the first spritz I get Montale’s sparkling Oud Damascus. This is interesting as many people have written that they can smell no Oud wood in this. However I certainly can, possibly because I’m familiar with some of Montales Ouds ! From there we move into a much darker (Black Rose) and earthy (Black Truffle) stage.

This is a true powerhouse of a perfume, and the only one that I have so far that I would not consider suitable for daytime wear ! Unless you’re reallly out to stun the board of Directors !

The drydown of Noir de Noir reminds me of Lancome’s amazing, blue tinged Mille et ue Roses (2000 et une Rose), which is one of the hardest and most expensive perfumes to find . Although it is at all times darker and earthier by nature than the Lancome.

However, Noir de Noir never becomes cloying and the Oud note comes back for me in the drydown

This one is the closest in ‘feel’ to his favoured original Black Orchid, but with Rose replacing the Orchid.

I would wear this if I really wanted to make an impression at a party or such. This one is definitely for ‘occasional’ use. However, it may smell completely different on you, this is the most interesting facet of the entire Private Blend line.

When I first sprayed this one, I was immediately reminded of YSL’s classic Opium in its’ original form. This top note stays around for abour 10mins or so and then fades into the most glorious ‘herby’ drydown.

This is my favourite in the line, possibly because it’s like no other fragrance I’ve ever smelt, but at the same time is ‘comfortable’ and intensely wearable. It feels very fresh almost like a very heavy cologne.

Sorry I can’t say more than that, I’m finding the Private Blend very hard to write about. Having read other blogs, it seems that just as usual, one’s body chemistry seems to be the most important aspect, as to which notes you will or won’t pick up.

Well, I AM going to review this properly, once I get over the shock of finding the perfume I’ve been searching for for years !

For it is true; I could’ve spent thousands in time and money finding a bespoke frgrance, but THIS is what I would’ve wanted it to smell like !

I have an abiding love for Price’s Heritage Oriental votives , on me TV smells exactly like them – incredible………

Now, just a quickie: Starts with a burst of spices, nutmeg/cinnamon and the most foody vanilla ever in the first few minutes. The an almost ’sneezy’ bitterness from the Tobacco notes. This finally settles on me with a fabulous sugar plum note………..which hangs beautifully in the air.

Once again, my hat is off to Mr Ford ! and yes, I know I’ve come to these late and many people don’t seem to like his fragrances, but for me they are all masterpieces. Don’t miss out on the chance to try these FAB creations.

Well, I don’t like leather notes on the whole, but was seduced by this with the promise of ‘incense’ in the drydown. Let’s just say it was worth the 50min wait to get there ! Also I woke up this morning with just a hint of incense and raspberry on my wrist, despite the handcream I put on last night. What amazing staying power.

Now, raspberry* may seem like a strange combination with the blackest of black leather, but it works so beautifully. It’s slightly zingy for the first few seconds and then gently melts into the leather. And this leather just reeks of quality and darkness, but at the same time seems warm and comforting. Just like your rebel boyfriend’s oldest leather jacket…………..For there is a slightly rebelious metalic note hidden in there somewhere; which gives it a hint of a jagged edge within the comfort.

So, this definitely has attractions for both M and F alike. Guys, if you were wearing this, I’d be back time after time for a good long sniff. So it really does have a warm and powerful seductive quality, possibly dangerously so ! I have read somewhere that this is ‘boring’, however I certainly haven’t found it that way at all.

I may even wear this as I love the drydown, and remember I don’t like leather notes at all !

I have to say that I am very impressed with this and would give it 10/10…………surprising !

Ah yes, I also read that the Private Blend fragrances can be layered; I shall try a little Purple Patchouli with this tomorrow.

I suddenly realised that the *raspberry in this is reminiscent of Shiseido’s Rose Rouge, which I love.

Well I’ve been wearing this chameleonesque beasty since Friday afternoon and I’m still not sure what I think of it !

On application there is an immediate burst of citrus quickly followed by the distict aroma of violets. This changes within a few minutes to a very deep and slightly dissonant deep Noir leather note. This doesn’t linger on me and changes softly over the course of the next few hours into a ylang/honey accord, which almost reminds me of ‘Shocking’. I get none of the Amber or Vetivert that are supposedly present !

However this is a very evasive scent and I think, as always that individual body chemistry brings out different notes. The most amazing thing about it is the fact that I haven’t once picked up any kind of Patchouli note – most strange. Beautiful to wear, as it drifts and morphes in and out.

I was asking the sales assistant to describe it for me and he said that this was a far more ‘traditional’ interpretation of Patchouli ! Sadly he was VERY wrong, and if you really want to smell the Patchouli, go for the regular White Patchouli. Or for real 70’s Patchouli then L’Artisan’s Patchouli Patch would be my recommendation.

Purple Patchouli is a very refined, intriguing and complex scent and I’m already planning my next Private Blend purchase !

Footnote: Having worn this for several days now I’ve noticed that it reminds me of Serge Lutens Bois Violette ! On me it’s VERY definitely soft, powdery and VERY, VERY violetey !!!! If it hadn’t come direct from a reputable London department store I might have been tempted to believe that this was Violet Noir ! Perhaps when I buy that one I will get some Patchouli !!!!!

Well, since acquiring my bottle of Tom Ford’s White Patchouli I haven’t wanted to try any other fragrance. Frankly, for me, this much fidelity is odd – So, it must be TRUE LOVE !

Although today I found myself purchasing a bottle of his Private Blend Purple Patchouli – I’m awaiting it with interest and intend to collect all 12. Whoops, what happened to that fidelity ? Well, it’s a New Year so I just had to have it.

When I heard about the release of this fragrance I was intrigued and managed to capture a bottle early. I was very cautious at first as this has had many mixed review.

On the first small spritz it was like the very best Champagne which exploded into a ‘fizzy’ white flower accord. I noticed straightaway that ‘creaosote’ note which always evades me, (in Kisu, Diorissimo and ADP’s Iris Nobile). This settled down to a warm earthy patchouli which was very light and eminently wearable for this Autum.

All in all, it wasn’t quite what I’d expected and had been hoping for more ………so, I went the whole hog – sprayed it on all over and have been totally in love ever since !

This is no hippy patchouli (L’Artisans Patchouli Patch), nor is it so creamy as Prada’s fabulous Eau de Parfum. Many blogs have mentioned a relationship between this and L’Artisans classic Voleur de Roses, a ‘wet’ floral patchouli. However, it could be ‘Voleurs’ more summery sister…………………………….it sparkles and zings but keeps you well earthed with this fabulously updated Patchouli Fragrance.

This is very much a skin scent and will all depend , as ever on your chemistry. However it has good staying power and a noticeably pleasing sillage.

So, I know what I’m wearing for Autumn !

Well done Tom Ford 10/10 !

…………..and here’s the official line:

A scent that perfectly captures the myth of a generation, surrounded by sleek wood notes and white flowers, this clean, penetrating fragrance melds Bohemian influences with today’s structured sophistication.

Opens energetically sparkling notes of bergamot blended with delicate white peony and spicy coriander accents make an instant play for attention.

The alluring and modern heart unfolds in sequence: rich rose absolute, carnal night blooming jasmine, and the stimulating ambrette seed.

Precious patchouli orpur infuses the finish with exotic depth. Its stimulating sensual pull is enriched by a medley of blonde woods and the soft eastern aroma of incense.

I should clarify here that I used to smother myself liberally with Patchouly oil in the early 70’s. Since then I had changed my obsession to incense notes, mostly due to the overpowering nature of Patchouly !

I have an old boyfriend from my teens, (dead cool, long haired surfer dude !),who says that he can’t smell Patchouli without thinking of me – ah bless ! What a way to be remembered………….