I raised the (inoperable) rudder using the usual rudder lift line,folded up the tramps, and used the mirage drive pedals to driveus to the nearest beach, using one of the oars to stall the boat on oneside occasionally, to get the bow pointing the right direction.

It was pretty hard work, plus we had the wind behind us which helped alot.We got to the beach in the end, and I replaced the rudder PIN with the spare.

I don't think I would be capable of replacing a rudder PIN on the water.

The Evolve comes with a rudder mount as well as a well mount. I use the well mount. The well mount is fixed so steering is accomplished with the rudder. However, if I had a broken rudder, I would set the Evolve to cruising speed, then use a paddle to steer to shore. Your hands and feet are freed up by the Evolve so one could wedge the paddle into the "V" of the aka brace and leverage the paddle like a tiller, using alternate sides of the boat. The centerboard should keep the boat on a mostly straight course. I think one would find it challenging if you had to pedal and steer simultaneously. Forward motion would be one less thing to think about using the Evolve.

Just be aware that steering a TI by the paddle is not a foregone conclusion! I found that the forces required to keep it pointed in the desired direction were greater than the paddle could proovide, after snapping an internal rudder line, so I added back-up external linesThis doesn't help if the rudder pin breaks, but at least reduces the risk of being stranded if anything else goes awry in the steering

tonystott :You are correct about trying to steer a TI sailing with a broken rudder, and trying to steer with a paddle, it's near impossible.I was out today sailing in moderate winds and the rudder pin broke, The winds were variable 10-15 mph and I was trying to limp back into the harbor trying to steer with the paddle, I would have had to steer past a bunch of moored sailboats to get back to the launch point to make the repairs, and as I got closer I realized my steering with the paddle was just not good enough. I ended up stopping and anchoring at a shallow sand bar near by and replaced the rudder pin. The steering last time out was odd, I suspect the pin was half broke from some previous mis-adventure, but held on the last couple times out in very light winds, but had a strange feel (I'll know better next time to check it when it feels funny). The heavier winds today broke the rest of the pin off.

I think I will start carrying at least two spare rudder pins at all times from now on.I could have probably anchored and climbed back there to replace the rudder pin out in open water, but felt safer doing it at a close by sandbar in shallow water, where I could inspect and double check everything, then go back out for a while longer.

That little locking ring, I could not get on out in the water, would have needed longnose pliers to get it on, so I left it off. I had pre-bent the one that broke so it could be installed without pliers, but didn't think to pre-bend locking ring on the spare pin ( I will next time).Bob

Ah, those locking ring! I have modified my spare rudder pins by filing the hole vertically (to minimise loss of strength) so I can fit 2mm wide zip ties through the hole, reasoning this to be virtually tool-free (only maybe needing to snip off the eds for neatness). While replacing the pin in deep water would still be a pain, just maybe fitting the zip ties would be doable.

You are correct as usual Bob, especially since the raising/lowering lines go through the groove on the "pinhead" , and I doubt I would try and fit even the zip-ties unless able to land somewhere, but I would fit some sort of keeper at the earliest opportunity

I mentioned the problems with the rudder PIN to a friend of mine, who is not a sailor, but happens to be a Phd qualified industrial designer. His instant response was that that PIN break design was ok but it should be possible to change the PIN *easily* from the Kayak, on the water, as part of the rudder design assembly - since it is designed to break while you're *on the water*.

From closely observing a friend's TI fitted with a 13kg Suzuki 4 stroke, I would say that you do not need to counter-balance if the outboard is attached close to the hull, and, yes, the TI rudder is sufficient to effectively control the TI when under motor. Being able to steer using the outboard also adds a very handy redundancy...