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Friday, October 26, 2007

The French Macaron

This is not another post on all the grey fashions in Paris.Remember I was late to the Gerard Mulotvisit?

I decided to do a "make-up" session since I'd missed one meeting by going off to Provence bla bla bla. Our lovely macaron guide, Florence admiring the chocolat.Macaron Chef Leclerc inside the kitchen/cuisine.Chef happily shares his macaron secrets with us. He is present from morning to night making sure the macarons are perfect and they are.Here Chef explains that only some of the macaron shells/ coques are flavored, like cafe, chocolate, pistache.Chef adds raspberry/framboise colorant to the egg whites.Once the eggs are beaten to perfection, Chef Leclerc goes handson up to his elbows, folding/macaronage in the sugar and almond flour to exactly the right consistency.

The chef does.

The Macaron Dance!

He knows when the batter is perfectly mixed. Eighteen new seasonal flavors /parfums are added seasonally. Final approval comes from Gerard Mulot and the board. Wouldn't you love to sit on that board judging new flavors?

Here Chef gives a helping hand pouring the batter into the macaron making machine. Occasionally the machine messes up. The chef throws the batter back in till it behaves properly.

The framboise-colored macaron batter.

Out come perfect macs ready for the oven/four.

At Gerard Mulot, they rest just 10 minutes, not 1 hour as at my Lenotre class before going into the overn. The revolving oven is new atGerard Mulot and can bake many more macarons. 80 kilos are made per day. 8 macarons in 100 grams. 1 kilo(1000 gr.) should equal 80 macarons. 1,600 macarons per day.

Removing the hot trays at exactly the right moment. Many of the stagieres/workers are from Japan. There are 18 Gerard Mulot shops in Japan selling ONLY MACARONS! They all come to Paris to get the training. American pastry chefs get off your duffs and get on it! The baked framboise lids get their beauty sleep for 24 hours but I may have gotten that wrong in my excitement.

As a reward for our patience we taste a nougat macaron. Then into the chocolate kitchen to see ganache made. That's another post that will have to wait dear readers. Over at Jean-Paul Hevin they are celebrating JOUR DU MACARON too. No one is waiting. Here you buy a box a box of 5 for 6.90 euros and they give you 1 free raspberry mac.

They donate 1 euro for you. Hmmm...There are 2 other pastry chefs celebrating today. I'm off to check them out and report back. It's a race against time - MSN keeps shutting down my internet for no good reason. As I raced to post I wolfed down my free macarons :(

Dear Ms. P. Breakfast,the macarons look really tasty.Are there perchance any with bacon flavor? My padrona used to take me to the Three Dogs Bakery on Elm Street in Bethesda, for a treat every now and then (there was a Pastry Shop right there too! *dog-smile*).

Oh thank you a macaron redux! I am amazed. Love the dance and the violettes. What a great idea to go back and give it one more shot. Someone kick our chefs in the derriere and get them off to France to learn the steps. I want to taste the parfums. Scented air and eggs and magic ingredients. Ahh, Thanks for such a treat. All best, Jan

Carol, that was fun! I liked that they seemed more hands-on here! And I do wonder now how those caps on top stay flatter than the others after baking, and why one takes so long to bake and the other does not. Interessante! Fun post...

Hmm. So you write , " Here the framboise lids get their beauty sleep for I think 24 hours" (I know I am not to quote you here..but um...well...did make a question in my head arise). This "rest" is when they are in dough form? I understand some people make the dough in the dome formation "rest" (or stand) so to form a skin. Yet, the others only "rest" 10 minutes. I wonder what the difference here is...must be something in the recipe?

ARGH! You have forced me to order almond flour! In fact, ever the scientist, I ordered it plain AND toasted! I hope you realize how much time I am spending in the kitchen trying in vain to keep up with your posts when I should be out kil chasing rabbits! AND I think you should start posting the photographic releases you have obtained from your "subjects" because I will be too busy baking to bail you out of jail!

I just discovered your blog and yum!! Btw these yummy delights and your chocolate post I think I'm gonna like coming here frequently! But OH this all makes me miss Paris soo much..I think another trip is much needed very soon :)

MERISI there is a place in Lyon I think that makes savory macarons with foie gras etc. So you're on the right track with your tomato macs!

MAXIE ma cheri Bonjour! So nice of you to stop by even if it was for the doggie bisquits :)

CRIS intersting point..maybe the chef has giant hands but macarons do come small-medium-large.

Correct Cybel I meant to say the BAKED lids...please excuse.

Cassoulet Cafe The color of the macaron can change in the oven...why some of the cassis turned grey not violet.

Chere Jeanette be sure your almond flour is bleached I think..there is a recommended brand..Hills Farm something or other-I'll look. But macarons are VERY TRICKY to make. VERY!!!!Much easier to eat. :)

Regarding the almond flour:Almond flour is something that is used every day and can be bought in the smallest grocery here in Austria. I know it is very difficult (and expensive) to find in the States.The problem is, one cannot grind it fine enough with electric grinders or Cuisinart or the like.There's an almond grinder available from Moulinex, a small gadget, kitchen stores like Williams Sonoma or Sur le Table used to carry them. Here in Austria my mother and any other cook uses a tool that looks like a meat grinder that can be attached to a table.

The difference betweet "white" almond flower and the regular one is that for the first one you have to blanch the nuts and remove the skin, taking care to dry them carefully at low temperatures in the oven. It is generally not adviseable to "toast them", unless it is a recipe that specifically asks for it (the taste between the one and the other is quite pronounced), but getting the almonds really dry after blanching and skinning is of utmost importance.

yummy macarons for all to savours. As i have not gotten the chance to try Macaron from Paris or japan...i am eager to know which method they used for their macarons( french meringue Or the Italian meringue- boil sugar syrup)

I am happy to report that in San Francisco there are several places that feature the French macarons! They say they are very popular and will be the next food in fashion replacing the cupcake! So far, I have not yet had one, but you certainly do encourage us to taste!

ParisBreakfast Letters

♥carol gillott♥

l'Ile Saint Louis, Paris, Ile de France, France

Hi I'm Carol Gillott,
My Mom taught me watercolors at 5. I'm still at it but now tripping over cobblestones on l'Ile Saint-Louis In Paris. Savor Parisbreakfast with a hot chocolate and croissant.
I paint Paris dreams.