All hail pale ale

Local brewers go 1-2-3 in national contest

November 08, 2012|By Josh Noel, Tribune Newspapers

Doesn't a road trip to the pale ale capital of the United States sound like delicious fun? Of course it does. Well, good news: We're already there. At last month's Great American Beer Festival, a three-day extravaganza of craft beer, more craft beer and awards (during which everyone drank craft beer), Chicago-area brewers took all three medals in the American-style pale ale category. It was a coup for us beer-loving flatlanders for a couple of reasons.

First, the Chicago area took the top three spots from among 109 beers entered, one of the most competitive categories at GABF. Also, American-style pale ales and their bold use of hops were pioneered on the West Coast, and the top honors in the category usually go to those brewers. But not this year.

Here is a look at the three winners that make us Pale Ale City, USA, at least until 2013.

GoldBrickstone APA, Brickstone Restaurant and Brewery, Bourbonnais

Who? Where? Exactly, and that's why little Brickstone's being home to the "best" American-style pale ale in the nation is impossible not to love.

"When we walked on stage, it was like, did we really hear that?" said his cousin and co-brewer George Giannakopoulos, 36.

Tucked along a strip of Bourbonnais car dealerships, Brickstone spent 10 years as a popular diner owned by Vasilakis' and Giannakopoulos' parents. Sensing the burgeoning craft beer trend, the cousins persuaded their parents to convert the restaurant to a brewpub featuring Vasilakis and Giannakopoulos as the brewers. Giannakopoulos' brother, Dino, manages the food.

Vasilakis and Giannakopoulos had almost no brewing experience but learned quickly while crafting a broad roster of beers that range from a light lager (for the Bud and Miller Lite drinkers who wander in) to a robust double India pale ale and a chocolate stout aged in whiskey barrels.

They figured the APA would be their flagship, and the medals appear to be proving them correct. The amber-orange brew explodes with rich pine and grapefruit and hits the all-important flowery, zesty notes before sticking a crisp, balanced landing. They spent four years tweaking the recipe.

To be fair, the gold medal can't have been a complete surprise; the same beer won bronze at the World Beer Cup in San Diego earlier this year. But when the Brickstone guys heard the bronze and silver pass at GABF without their names called, they figured topping a West Coast brewery for the gold would be impossible.

"I was getting texts saying congratulations before we even hit the red carpet," Vasilakis said.

Fueled by its success, Brickstone has rapid expansion plans that include bottling in 2013 and maybe a separate production brewery. Which raises a question: How do a pair of cousins transform themselves from nonbrewers working at the family diner to the minds behind the top-rated pale ale in the country?

"Just practice, I guess," Vasilakis said. "A lot of reading and a lot of practice."

Try it: Brickstone APA is often on tap at The Map Room, Bar on Buena and Fountainhead. The brewpub, about 60 miles south of Chicago, is worth a trip, however, for the broad roster of well-made beer. 557 William R. Latham Sr. Drive, Bourbonnais; 815-936-9277, brickstonebrewery.com

SilverThe Weight, Piece Brewery and Pizzeria

After the turkey and stuffing, Piece brewmaster Jonathan Cutler has another Thanksgiving tradition: watching "The Last Waltz," the concert documentary about The Band. It has been among his favorite bands, and movies, for 20 years.

So when Cutler wanted to create a tribute to drummer Levon Helm, who died in April, he did what he does best: He made beer. In this case he wanted to craft a beer with crisp strength and familiar appeal, kind of like The Band.

"An American pale ale seemed to fit," Cutler said. "It's all American hops and malt. We were playing The Band the whole time we were brewing it."

Then he named it for one of The Band's best-known songs.

It's a beautifully modest but flavorful pale ale that's admirably muscular with its hops without too much bitterness.

"I have brewed pale ales for years," Cutler said. "There's honestly nothing out of the ordinary about this one. We didn't brew it differently or use any different yeast. It was just inspired by the music and is homage to Levon Helm. It's a tribute and a celebration."

The Weight was intended as a one-off release, but with a silver medal behind it, it will stay in Piece's rotation — just as The Band has stayed in Cutler's.

"It will be around for years to come," he said.

Try it:The Weight is only available on draft at Piece, and should be available through the end of the year. 1927 W. North Ave.; 773-772-4422; piecechicago.com

BronzeZombie Dust,Three Floyds, Munster, Ind.

Internet outrage swelled when Three Floyds didn't win gold for this popular beer. Still, the brewery is happy with its bronze.