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I was surfing a waist-chest day in delaware a few years ago and tried to back bail over a closeout section but ended up hitting the folding lip and getting sucked over feet first onto my upside-down board. The side fin hit the instep of my foot like an axe. Got to the beach and asked a friend if it was bad and he started to retch. So I drove myself to the walk-in emergency clinic in rehoboth off Rt. 1 with a towel wrapped around my foot and eventually the got all the sand and crap out of the cut and stitched it up and but a bandage on it. The painkillers they gave me when suturing ran out about halfway though the two-hour drive home and I have a stick shift car. Every shift I had to stifle a scream and I was out of the water for like 3 weeks. Sucked!

never paddle out when your sick

it was march 2007, we had a sick noreaster swell, 7-8ft...by some kind of miracle i was actually off work and school that day, but i was getting over a bad flu. i couldn't resist, so i paddled out in 38 degree water with a board way too short for the conditions, i caught one sick one and got barrelled, so i got cocky and took off really late on my next one, went over the falls, after a series of under water cartwheels and flips, i come up with a bad ice cream head ache and reach for my board to find only half of it there, so i had to paddle back with a ridiculous current, thick ass suit(swimming really sucks in winter suits) , and half a board in nearly freezing water when i was really fatigued already from being sick...i thought i was gonna drown, but i made it..big relief

Did anyone see the movie Surf’s Up? The wipe out that Cody has on his first big wave pretty much illustrates exactly what happened to me last October.
It was the first overhead swell I was ever in, the sets were pounding and it was a really hard rip that day, it took me several tries just to paddle out to the line up...I finally get to the line up, winded but overly excited to be out there. I was so anxious to catch my first big wave(“it was going to be the best ride of my life”), I took the first wave of the next big set (that was smart)... nosed dived right off of the lip like a rag doll. The wave held me under for over a minute, my board smashed me in the head only to reach the surface to get pounded down again with the next 4 waves of the on coming set, somehow I made it back to the line up to rest/pass-out...”welcome to winter on the jersey shore”. There were several people with video cameras and taking pics from the beach that day, I saw that deer in headlights glare as I faced the shore . I am sure that someone got that mess on tape... yes everyone that was me!

surfing our secret spot thats 30 minutes from the hospital in florida, head high day tuckin in to get barreled and the nose caught a little so i dove forward and the board came back and the nose went straight into my head, 4 staples and 2 stitches. it bled a lot haha pretty sharky waters where we were also. Im also pretty sure it damage my brain haha

I was in the outer banks surfing. There was a tropical storm. The wave hight was maybe shoulder sets yet really fast and powerful. I went for one and the bottom dropped out and I decided to bail and pull back but it was to late, I fell from the lip and hit my board. my knee punched a hole right through my board. I didnt even realize it had hit my board till a few minutes later when I was sitting back out in the lineup, I felt my board and there was a huge hole in it, and my knee was gushing blood. I got out of the water and took my board to Natural Art to get it patched.

I've gotten better, but for a while, whenever I would bail, I would always freak out a little and think i'm going to hit my board again, or maybe my board will turn over and i'll impale myself on the fins. oh well though......

It was a groundswell.. I forget the direction. Top sets were head to a little overhead high. The air temp was like 75 degrees and the wind was light offshore.

I paddled out no problem to one of the jetties at my home break and it was packed as hell. I honestly don't know how I made it out without having to duckdive under anything. Being a bodyboarder I sometimes have trouble getting waves when I'm in a lineup of all surfers, so I was sitting there for pretty long. All of a sudden a gigantic bomb set of waves start rolling in and I knew I was a little too far inside. I paddled as fast as I could and started my duckdive but I was a little off in my position. I got sucked right over and tossed around like a ragdoll. I was under for maybe 10 seconds and then I surfaced right on top of the jetty almost.

I thought I was going to break my head open. 2 more of these monsters came through and slammed me into the jetty, luckily I stuck my fins out to stop the impact. I struggled in the rip running around the jetty, got out, and collapsed on the beach.

Sounds dumb but the worst injuries I have had were on sub-par surf when you don't always need to be on your toes.

Once, during probably waist high surf, I rode one to shore and after hopping of my board got distracted for a second and another wave crashed into me and my board, hitting me in the head. The nose of my board put a nice gash in my head right behind my ear. A few butterfly stitches from CVS later and I was out again.