Get those minor problems tackled before they turn into major ones.
Spring and Autumn are good times to give your home a maintenance check and you
can look forward to spending more time enjoying your old house!

Blocked rainwater routes - spring and autumn
high-winds help strip trees of dead leaves and these can quickly block gutters, downpipes or
gullies. Water running down
walls can promote decay and lead to expensive repairs in the
future. Get gutters and rainwater goods checked out, cleared and repaired
before problems occur. Check for problems that have
started: Brave the next rainstorm to look for the
following from the ground:-

Is water cascading over the edge of gutters? - If it
is they are likely to be blocked at or before the outlet to the downpipe (or possibly
falling the wrong way). Get the gutter cleared (or re-aligned). Leafguards
- cages that slot into the opening to the downpipe - trap leaves before
they get into the downpipe but sometimes they just make things worse by
damming the gutter, if fitting them anew treat them as an experiment and
watch progress.

Are the gutters leaking or dripping at a joint? A persistent
drip can eventually wear away mortar, paint or render where it hits and cause damp
problems in walls.

Is nothing coming out of the end of the downpipes even in heavy
rain? There is probably a blockage either high up at the gutter outlet
or somewhere in the pipe - perhaps at a bend. (The water that should be in
the pipe will probably already be obvious spilling over the walls). It is better to fix the
problem with the gutters and pipes now rather than let it develop into a major
building repair as well.

Is water coming out of the back of the pipe? Badly painted iron
downpipes can rust through and leak. A leak may only be a joint that needs
re-making but if the pipe is broken or rusted through then it is usually
preferable to replace the pipe in the same material.

Do the gullies (at ground level) fill and overflow when it rains?
Clear any leaves above the grid. If it is still full of water then there
is most likely either something blocking the trap (sometimes the trap is a
U-bend) underneath the grid or some problem with any underground pipes
that take the water away. Make sure the pipes run freely so water runs away rather than rising
up the walls.

Roof leaks - High winds may have dislodged tiles or lifted lead work,
so get these checked if anything looks amiss from the ground (it
may help to use binoculars). Tiny holes or cracks in leadwork can admit quite a lot of
water and are difficult to see even close up. Sometimes, if this is
possible, a trip into the roof-space can help
pin-point a leak.

Flat roofs - Don't forget these, all outlets should be clear so that if they get piled up with snow it can melt away safely.

Under-floor Vents - Leaves may have mounded up over
ventilating grilles to under-floor spaces. Clear leaves and soil away
from these grilles to
maintain ventilation to protect the underside of timber floors.

General Inspection - Check over the house to see if there
are any places where water might be able to get in:-

Tiny cracks
in paintwork around timber windows - particularly cills - can contribute
significantly to water getting into the fabric of an old house.
Rubbing some ordinary linseed oil glazing putty into small cracks in painted traditional woodwork
can help
keep things drier until the weather is right for repainting.

Check rendered walls for cracks. For those lucky enough to have
an old house complete with lime mortar or lime-rendered finishes then spring is the
best time to have permanent repairs in those materials carried out - any repairs
made in the autumn may be damaged by frost and need re-doing in spring. But even
that
can be preferable to introducing impermeable modern materials. If the
house has
been cement rendered or painted in plastic paint it is important to keep
these free from cracks as these materials do not allow water to dry out of
olden construction as adequately as can through lime render and finishes.

Outside taps - In winter turn these off (preferably at their internal
isolating valve) and wrap them and any exposed pipes in insulation for the
winter to help prevent damage from freezing.

Climbing plants - Make sure that any plants that grow over
the walls of the house are not obstructing gutters, downpipes or
gullies at ground level. Those plants that have lost their leaves for winter can be
more easily trimmed away from windows and roofs before next year's growth.

Plants at the base of walls - Ensure that any plants are kept
clear of the walls and that earth has not been mounded up against
house walls, as this may cause damp to transfer into the walls.

Trees, fences and walls -
It is a
good idea to carefully check for
signs of weakness or damage. (Trees in certain areas may be protected
and require permission before any pruning work. Some species should be
trimmed only at certain times of year. Local Authorities may be able to
advise.)

Water leaks from pipework inside a house can cause serious problems if
allowed to go undetected so check the following:-

Heating - Check around
pipes, especially under junctions, taps and bends where leaks are most likely to
occur. Ensure that radiators are not trapping pockets of air (by
having them 'bled'). Remember also that sweeping chimneys - for open fires - and
servicing boilers makes for safety and efficiency.

Plumbing - Check internal plumbing fittings to make sure that
these are leak-free. Look under w.c. soil pipes at the junction
with the pan in case an undetected leak has occurred. If not already
done, consider insulating those pipes that run in un-heated
areas such as lofts, outbuildings and cellars (be aware that old
insulation to pipes and boilers etc might contain asbestos - if in doubt
do not disturb it and seek advice from your Local Authority:See Government website.

Insulation - Most old houses can be difficult to insulate in
a way that also protects the fabric from inadvertent damage so, for
example, insulating walls can often present difficulties. (See
oldhouse.info article: Insulation)
However roofspaces are
often able to be insulated with a suitable 'quilt' product laid above the
ceilings:-

Roof insulation - For the long-term benefit of
the house it can
be preferable to choose insulation
that is totally removable (not 'glued' to the structure) and which does
not encase or seal up the fabric. Old houses need to
'breathe' so avoid products which prevent this. Some products
may produce irritant fibres or fumes which people may wish to avoid in
their homes. Products that are non-combustible and will not produce
toxic fumes in the event of a fire are a sensible choice for roofspaces in
old houses. Be careful not to block
up those all-important ventilation paths at the eaves or at the back of the tiles
since ventilation can help stop roof timbers decaying. Do not trap
electric cables (or the tops of light fittings) inside insulation where
they could overheat. If laying insulation as DIY then wear protective
clothing, mask and goggles as appropriate to the product.

Water tanks - Make sure that water tanks in unheated roofspaces are
insulated too (leaving out the insulation just beneath them is an old
trick to ensure they get some heat from the rooms below).

Draughts - No one likes to sit in a draught but remember that
air movement is vital to old houses as it can help to keep them dry and
free from decay. It may often be difficult to banish draughts completely
from an old house anyway, there are so many nooks and crannies; so adopt
some of our forebears' ideas by making use of heavy curtains and keeping
doors shut.

Ladders - Many DIY accidents involve ladders. If unsure about them or
without a head for
heights then get professional help and stay on the ground. Only
carry out work within personal capability and where safe. If using
ladders make sure they are at a safe
angle, securely tied
and anchored, before climbing them. Use footwear which grips the rungs
well. Don't carry heavy loads up ladders and don't over-reach. (See
under 'ladders' on Health & Safety sites for more
information).

Be sensible -
Understand what you are doing and find out about the materials,
construction and substances you are going to be working with. Get the
right protective clothing. And then only work within your capabilities.
Don't be afraid to take your time and think a job through. Old houses can
contain a lot of surprises - especially to those only familiar with
newer buildings.

Power tools - and machinery - need to be
treated with proper respect and fully understood, the way professional
builders do: they are potentially lethal! Old houses were built without
any of our power tools anyway and sometimes hand tools can be kinder to
them, more appropriate, save money (and provide useful exercise!) Make
sure that electrical supplies used in this connection have appropriate RCD
protection and other necessary measures to reduce the risk of shock (plug-in adapters are available
if the household wiring doesn't incorporate this already) and keep
electrics away from water. (See
the Electrical Safety Council site).

Decay starts with water in the fabric -
Don't trap it in there but let old houses 'breathe' it out!

This checklist aims to help foster an understanding of the general issues
involved in the maintenance of old domestic dwellings in the UK but cannot
cover all aspects of all possible issues and is for information only. It
is not a substitute for specific professional advice. Information may be
updated at any time without notice. Some building processes, products and
materials are subject to regulations and laws governing permissions
or the proper and safe use of materials. oldhouse info has no control
over how any of the information contained in this article or elsewhere on
its website or on any linked website is used and can accept no liability
for loss, damage or injury however caused.See
full disclaimer and terms and conditions on www.oldhouse.info.