Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Pin, Pleat, Press, Pin, Pleat, Press,...

Hey folks!

So another weekend has passed and yet again I have something to show you.
I've started with the fantail skirt, again alot of calculations. I decided to mix the patterns from the "Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol1." and the TV 225. The latter I actually just sketched from pictures shown in a WIP quite some time ago.
This is what I want the skirt to look like in the end (on the left you can se the pic form the book)

And this is how I mixed the patterns

I added darts to the front and side gore to a) have it better fitting at the upper hips and b) take out some width from the waist already. Otherwise I would have had to get the remaining 60cm (as indicated by the drawing) in 3cm of the waistband... nearly impossible. So now I only need to get them into 7cm band *lol*. Also I decided to only make it 50cm wide. Snowlady was so kind to measure the back piece from the TV pattern for comparision.
Next I changed the box pleat in the back to a gore (like with the TV pattern) and removed the train (our streets are too dirty for that ^^). Also you can see a little sketch for the skirt lining/foundation. This is what I actually made over the weekend. I wanted to make it first before the top layer, to measure how long the skirt can be in the back to just touch the ground.

Saturday I cut the pieces (I made the back panels 10cm narrower), serged them and joined the upper part as well as the flounce pieces... they were 5 full breadths of fabric, meaning 1,50m wide... so the flounce has a total length of 7,50m *ugh*

Sunday I started with hemming the flounce- always do that before pleating or gathering or you'll go nuts ;)

Then I went into the pleating marathon. Pin, pleat, press, pin, pleat, press... a good 80 times... *ugh* took me about two hours to get the 7,5m down to 2,5m...

At least the progress was very well noticable *lol*
Next was fixing the pleats and joining the upper part with the flounce

Now after the pleats were tamed, the skirt was gathered onto the waistband (the back panels shouldn't have been a cm wider, the 40cm was the maximum to be gathered down to 7cm).
The waistband is only a plain cottontape, rather makeshift, just to hold the gathers in place and to pin it on the dolly. I will probably simply sew it into the real waistband with the whole lining skirt.
So to make long words short, here the pictures of the finished lining:

As a sidenote: both fabics are black, only the upper one is cotton, the lower one is polyester. It amazes me everytime how many shades of a "non-color" there are ^^

Okay that's it for this week.
Stay tuned for more and tell me what you think ;)

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