Best Runway Show: Simon Spurr

Best Runway Show: Simon Spurr

He didn't go cerebral on us (not that there's anything wrong with cerebral), and he didn't blow us away with his stagecraft (and we like being blown away with stagecraft). And unlike some shows where we appreciate the clothing (though we appreciated the clothing), we simply wanted to wear every single stitch on the runway. Spurr offered no theme other than looking good: The suits were perfect, the fabrics original, the accessories (especially those shades) nothing short of genius. And when stripped to its bare minimum, a fashion show is meant to sell clothes. Consider us sold.

Best Presentation: Band of Outsiders

Best Presentation: Band of Outsiders

Designer Scott Sternberg has never produced an actual runway show, and that's a good thing: His outsiders inhabit a natural little environment that invites the viewer right in — almost like the fashion version of the Natural History Museum. This season, the environs ranged from beach to boot camp, albeit with tinges of foreboding and melancholy. But the clothes were of the if-it-ain't-broke variety: killer trousers, sweatshirts, and shorts, plus boots, jackets, and pajama-inspired suiting. Nice.

Best Runway Show: Simon Spurr

He didn't go cerebral on us (not that there's anything wrong with cerebral), and he didn't blow us away with his stagecraft (and we like being blown away with stagecraft). And unlike some shows where we appreciate the clothing (though we appreciated the clothing), we simply wanted to wear every single stitch on the runway. Spurr offered no theme other than looking good: The suits were perfect, the fabrics original, the accessories (especially those shades) nothing short of genius. And when stripped to its bare minimum, a fashion show is meant to sell clothes. Consider us sold.

Best Presentation: Band of Outsiders

Designer Scott Sternberg has never produced an actual runway show, and that's a good thing: His outsiders inhabit a natural little environment that invites the viewer right in — almost like the fashion version of the Natural History Museum. This season, the environs ranged from beach to boot camp, albeit with tinges of foreboding and melancholy. But the clothes were of the if-it-ain't-broke variety: killer trousers, sweatshirts, and shorts, plus boots, jackets, and pajama-inspired suiting. Nice.

Best Newcomer: N.Hoolywood

Daisuke Obana has been putting on shows in Japan for the better part of a decade, but for his first stateside foray, you had to look through a head-high slit in the wall. On the other side were models posing for '40s-style prison photos, one by one — all of which could have been cheesy had they not been wearing such sophisticated clothes. The densely layered concepts injected some Parisian showmanship into the New York schedule.

Trend We Are Most Excited About: A Little Less Red White and Blue

Don't get us wrong: We love Americana, and we love preppy. But it's been an ascendant look — dominant, even — for quite a few years now. We're just saying that it was refreshing to see clean continental lines co-exist — to see some new, complementary ideas explored. They prevent designers (and shoppers) from becoming too self-referential, too English. The classics will stay in our tool kit (and should stay in yours), but sometimes if you love something, well, you have to leave it alone.

From Robert Geller

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

5Of15

Trend We're Least Excited About: Longer Hemlines (for Women)

We know, we know: Dresses get longer in a bad economy. It's been proven. Doesn't mean we have to like it.

Best Boot: Moc-Toe Suede Boot (with Red Laces) by Rag & Bone

We've loved Grenson's manufacturing of Rag & Bone footwear for a while now, but co-designer David Neville told us this season's boots were all-original. Kudos to the boys on that one, because the caramel version of their prevalent suede shoes were all stellar. And the laces? Game over.

Second-Best Boot: Ribbon-Strapped Boots by Band of Outsiders

Best Party (Uptown): Tommy Hilfiger

Tommy's birthday soiree at the Metropolitan Opera House was one of the best New York Fashion Week parties we've attended in years. The setting was spectacular, the crowd was A-list, the commute from the show venue was a breeze, the drinks were plentiful, and the fking Strokes performed their first hometown show in years. Well played, sir.

Best Party (Downtown): Billy Reid

As we've evangelized, Fashion's Night Out was a wonderful mess this year, and the highlight for us was at Billy Reid's store. Billy is deeply committed to celebrating southern music, so Shelly Colvin with Brownsville, among others, played sets for an appreciative crowd. When they ran out of beers, Team Reid bought 40-ounce Budweisers for everyone. And when those ran out, Esquire had to go to the deli for some cans.