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Show Report

The sparse splashes of blue and subtle touches of steely grey were the only relief offered from an overwhelmingly black collection.

Hannah Marshall, known for her seductive silhouettes, simple lines and strong shoulders, didn't stray too far from her comfort zone with her Autumn/Winter 2010 collection.

And when it comes to the width of the upper torso, it seems Marshall has placed a premium on size. As shoulders expanded further and further away from the body, like a lying Pinocchio's nose, they ran the risk of making the wearer look like the Hunchback of Notre Dame rather than the iconic Grace Kelly, on whom the collection was largely inspired. (Or, in the case of the royal blue mohair cardigan that was sent down the catwalk, a cast member from the Golden Girls.)

Never one for colour, the sparse splashes of blue and subtle touches of steely grey were the only relief offered from an overwhelmingly black collection. Velvet, suede, Toscana lamb fur and liquid-like latex only added to the dark, gothic and severe mood of the show. If you were after something to cheer up those bleak wintry nights, this wasn't it.

Meanwhile, somewhere underneath the predominance of boxy sweaters and boyfriend blazers lurked form-fitting turtleneck dresses with long sleeves. Demure they may sound, and demure they would be - if it wasn't for the flesh exposing slashes under the bust and buttocks.

Just a tad on the revealing side at first, Marshall's dresses were continually cut, sliced and slit until it was left to merely a strip of black velvet to adjoin the neck to the skirt - and to a leather bandeau to protect the model's modesty. A touch drafty for a British winter perhaps? Maybe that's the reason model's lips were painted a blood-drained bright blue.

Signature jutting hips, semi-sheer tops and high-waisted trousers will no doubt prove popular with Marshall's existing fans. Whether or not her lethally sharp aesthetics will win over new ones is yet to be seen. That said, if fashion's love affair with big shoulders and sultry colours continues - as it seems to be set to - then Marshall has nothing to worry about.