importwarrior asked me to document the wheel stud repair for the FAQ. (Sorry I don't know how to rotate the pictures - they were uploaded this even though they were right on my computer)

I'm working on a 1988 Conquest.

It's super, super easy. No special tools required, but there is one small hiccup to be aware of.

Tools
- No special tools required. You'll need the appropriate sockets to remove the caliper, pads, caliper bracket and Rotor. Probably a good time for a brake job.
- A wheel stud installation tool is helpful. It's got a bearing to ride on, a groove for the lug-nut and is properly spaced to pull the stud through. A stack of washers, or an oversize bolt may also work. (https://www.amazon.c...r/dp/B000ETUD22)
- I would recommend having some body shims around. I will explain why below.

The NAPA PN# for the rear stud is NOE 6411622

Here is the offending busted stud some gorilla cross-threaded, with the brakes removed, and the busted stud rotated forward so I have the most space to knock it out. I was worried that hitting the stud might bend the mounting surface, but a light hit with the hammer and it fell right out.

Here is the tricky part. Because of the raised portion of the hub which helps center the Rotor, you're going to have a bit of a problem drawing the stud out straight. There is not a lot of space, so washers, a bolt, or the stud tool are going to sit at an angle and make it tough to get the stud back in. Here's where the fender spacers came in. I had some in my shop, and I shimmed behind the installation tool in order to draw the stud back straight. I hit this with the air tool and it worked great. No friction or heat thanks to the bearing on the installation tool.