Anyway, I don't have a clue on the "Super Retro Boy" specifically, but if it's an aftermarket system, you can pretty much guarantee it's not going to be as high of quality as the real thing. You can call me crazy, but I think the AGS-001 is the best model. The colors may be washed out, but there's no ghosting, and although the screen can't get as bright, I like the option for you to actually turn the light off when you don't need it. It's a lot easier on the eyes this way and I also find it's much easier to see in direct sunlight.

If you have a GBA or DS with noticeable horizontal lines on the screen when things move, you can adjust the LCD bias voltage a bit and make it look significantly less noticeable. The adjustment pot is under the battery cover on the SP, DS, and DS Lite, and accessible through the model number sticker on the back of the original GBA.

It's especially important to adjust this when replacing a screen because the new one will probably behave differently from the original.

If you have a GBA or DS with noticeable horizontal lines on the screen when things move, you can adjust the LCD bias voltage a bit and make it look significantly less noticeable. The adjustment pot is under the battery cover on the SP, DS, and DS Lite, and accessible through the model number sticker on the back of the original GBA.

It's especially important to adjust this when replacing a screen because the new one will probably behave differently from the original.

You have to be very careful when adjusting this pot. In the early days of the GBA, people first discovered that this pot could make their screen appear brighter, but it could also damage the screen or destroy it if care was not taken.

Could anybody with a really early GBA and Metroid Fusion try to see whether my description of the effect at the end is real or a Mandela Effect?

I can barely even find the small handful of people making new 240x160 ("HQVGA") full-color display panels at all. The ones I can find are all "transflective", the same display technology you're complaining about in the original AGB-001/AGS-001.

I can't find color OLED screens of that size; they're all smaller (and often not color) or larger.

The original screen is 2.8" diagonal. Via radical rework, you could stuff at most a 3.8" 3.2" width from start/select button × 6÷5 (diagonal/width of 3:2 LCD panel) screen in the same place. It turns out that the standard 480x320 ("HVGA") Raspberry Pi touch screen is 3.5", BUT: * The GBA emits video as 160i* The LCD driver for that particular part expects video input as portrait, not landscape, 480p.And now you would have to add a relatively power-hungry part to handle rotating video for that.

to make sure you see this:What you want cannot currently be found/made for a price you're willing to pay.

I can barely even find the small handful of people making new 240x160 ("HQVGA") full-color display panels at all. The ones I can find are all "transflective", the same display technology you're complaining about in the original AGB-001/AGS-001.

I can't find color OLED screens of that size; they're all smaller (and often not color) or larger.

The original screen is 2.8" diagonal. Via radical rework, you could stuff at most a 3.8" 3.2" width from start/select button × 6÷5 (diagonal/width of 3:2 LCD panel) screen in the same place. It turns out that the standard 480x320 ("HVGA") Raspberry Pi touch screen is 3.5", BUT: * The GBA emits video as 160i* The LCD driver for that particular part expects video input as portrait, not landscape, 480p.And now you would have to add a relatively power-hungry part to handle rotating video for that.

to make sure you see this:What you want cannot currently be found/made for a price you're willing to pay.

It would be expensive and would introduce one frame of lag to translate a signal intended for a screen that scans from top to bottom, such as the Game Boy Advance display, to a signal intended for a screen that scans from left to right, such as the Raspberry Pi display.

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