Replacing a Water Pump

This advice is for Estate TOP LOADING washing
machines equipped with a DIRECT-DRIVE type transmission. This is NOT for
older models equipped with a wig-wag transmission that are BELT driven.
Read the instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a simple
repair that can be accomplished easily if you follow the steps provided:1. Unplug washing machine.2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one
of two ways depending on which type of console you have.a. If the console has removable
end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer.
The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of
the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to
remove.b. If the console does not have
removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner
of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each
side that has to be released.3. Once the console has been released it will lift
up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care
not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.4. Under the console will be two large brass
colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove
of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push
away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This
is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the
washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not
grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first
towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes
off exposing the wash tub and components.7. Locate the water pump. It is a small
plastic pump with two hoses connected to it, directly under the front of the
wash tub. It is advisable at this point to drain the residual water from
the wash tub. This will save you a lot of clean up time later.
Here’s a helpful HINT: If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the
drain hose from the standpipe at the wall. Connect the shop vac to the
end of the drain line and pull a vacuum on it. This will quickly drain
the residual water and leave you with little to no mess. If you do not
own a shop vac, remove the lower hose from the pump and place a pan or a bunch
of old towels under it & allow to drain.8. Remove the water pump by removing the two
retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a
screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump,
turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and
remove both hoses. HINT: This is a good time to inspect the drain
lines for any debris that may have gotten lodged in the lines.9. Install new water pump. You may have to rotate
the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly
on the motor shaft. Make sure you re-install the retaining clips
correctly. Insert the keyed end first, then turn and snap them in place
over the pump.10. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the
washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame.
While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of
the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to
ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the
washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle
and vibrate while the washer is in operation.11. Make the back of the washer fits into the
washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into
the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the
opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.12. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to
forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.13. Reinstall console.NOTE: This water pump IS NOT serviceable.
Meaning, it does not come apart. You can, at times, manage to dislodge
items that have become stuck in the pump by slowly rotating the shaft backwards
(with the pump removed from the washer) while pulling the object free.
Sometimes this works, but sometimes the seal becomes damaged. Panty hose,
underwear and the under wire from bras are notorious for getting stuck in these
pumps. HINT: It is STRONGLY recommended that you use small nylon
garment bags while washing some of your smaller items like this.

I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and
follow the steps as written. A new washer pump should cost about $40.

Related Questions:

There are two types of Kenmore top loading washing machines. The direct drive models and the belt drive models. Direct drive models do not have a back access panel and the water inlet valve is located on the left side viewed from the rear while belt drive models do have back access panel and the water inlet valve is located on the right side viewed from the rear.

The most common problem causing a top loading machine not to agitate, particularly when the motor seems running, is a broken motor coupler for direct drive models and a broken or worn out drive belt for belt drive models.

The best way to exactly determine the cause is to access the drive motor. Open the back access panel for belt drive models and check the drive belt. Check the drive motor if it is running, humming or stuck.

Please indicate the model number of the washing machine if it is a direct drive model for the procedure in accessing drive motor.

Many
late model washing machines use a direct-drive system to agitate and
spin. They don't use belts or pressure wheels to transfer power and
motion from the motor to the transmission. The motor is coupled
directly to the transmission. If the motor is running and there is no
agitation or spinning of the tub, the culprit is usually a plastic
coupling between the motor and transmission or the transmission itself.

You said, when the washer is going into spin cycle it makes a loud clunking
noise. You are wondering if this could be the brakes or possibly the
pump?

Sounds like this!

Faulty direct drive Coupling (Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper / Estate) The
direct drive (motor) Coupling may be broken. Many Whirlpool/Kenmore
brands washing machines utilize a small, relatively inexpensive direct
drive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the
shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other.

It can wear out over time or fail under overloading conditions. This protects your transmission from excessive loading.it can also be a broken spring or strut dependping on your washes make and type