I just opened up this tin that I had purchased back in Feb 2007 for $70. It was a large show at the KCI expo and I had to carry this and a crate Albanian LB 7.62x54r a loooong way to the car. Has anyone had any experiences good or bad with the Factory 12 1953?

jeff

Last edited by AMraider on Sun Jan 28, 2018 8:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I have some of that, I don't remember if it's the same year or not, but it either works or it takes 2-3 hits with the firing pin, the rifle I was shooting at the time was a 1943 turk mauser. I think some of the primers are a little deeper than others, I have not tried it in my other mausers yet.

What mr. ghost devil said--primers seem to be seated a bit deeper than most ammo we see. If u have a lot, try a increased firing pin spring--friend gave me one (Wolff 24# IIRC) that did the trick for an unusually accurate Yugo Mauser. Heavy bullet (198 gr) so there is a bit of recoil--pretty accurate stuff.

"I have never seen a situation so desperate that the arrival of a policeman did not make worse"
Brendan Behan, Irish poet

Thanks for the replies. It looks like clean stuff so I will give it a try. Safely of course.

Shoots fine, but hard primers and some that are just dead. In a mauser bolt action depending on your firing pin spring you might have to up the spring --Wolff Springs has new stronger springs. Turks are bad for weak springs, a new RC should fire it OK. Light hits to the primer mean get a better/stronger firing pin spring to fire the Yugo ammo.

Prior to shooting check the cartridge for hair line visible cracks at the shoulder and where the bullet is set. On some batches you can see cracks and may be able to actually pull the bullet out of the case. Do not fire these cartridges where splits are visible. Most have no visible splits, burn splits occur say about 2-5 per box after they are fired and all batch lots are different. A few at the neck or rim is ok. NOW<If you have a bad lot you will see rim/rear case splits or splits down the entire side. Then its up to you to pull the bullet for reloading to be on the safe side, or fire the stuff and live on the edge. Do you need your eyes? One serious side split out of 2 boxes is fair, but if you get any more major burn cracks at the base or the entire side the case, or worse, case head separation then you may have the weak/brittle brass lot. That is the garbage I pull and use the powder and bullet for reloading new brass. I value my eye sight. So you fire it and see, be sure its in a vented old bolt action mauser, no semi auto or machine gun.
You get the idea, most old posts now suffer from the photobucket pic loss due to its switch to pay to post. So its difficult to post/find new pictures.
Shoot it, but wear impact resistant safety glasses. Did I say WEAR SAFETY GLASSES

And it is a real pain when the extractor tears off the rear of the case and the body of the yugo cartridge is still stuck in the chamber.

To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

I have shot a good bit of '53-'55 Yugo through my K98s. The occasional round required a second primer strike, but never any split cases. I really like the strippers, they are so much better than the 1-piece Turk ones.