Both forks already torn down and rebuilt to the above specs. I did more TT hunting to find the outer chamber oil amount (505ml) in another thread. My studs should be in next week so it'll be a bit before I can test. And a snow test might not be the most telling.
Lighter oil would have been the ticket if all I needed to do was re-center the clickers, but I wanted to help with deflection off roots and rocks too. I did more reading on the front sag and I think my procedure for the measurement was off. I just bounced them a few times and took a reading. At my weight I have a hard time believing they're over sprung.
As I said above, it seems like it turns ok for my ability.

I'm 6'3, and found a big difference when I setup the bike for my size. I have bar risers that go up 2.5" and forward 1". I also dropped the foot pegs 1" and back 1". So much easier to get my elbows bent when standing, and feels much more roomy in the cockpit. Arm pump gone because I can keep my wrists flatter while working the controls.
I used to do the same sort of squat on the bike, especially before I did the above changes. Without the changes, I had to squat to get my knees down to the seat to clamp and hold on. I always had in my mind to not lock my knees, but I was overdoing it. I saw a few pics of myself and I was really bent at the knees and had my shoulders rolled forward. Then I made an effort to keep my legs straighter, and my back flat. Saves so much energy not doing the continuous squat and letting the suspension do the work.

I am a trail rider and back of the pack C Vet racer, 6'3" and 215lbs without gear. I ride in typical NE roots and rocks, and compete in the GP and harescrambles. I've got a 96 RM250 that's got the oddball conventional Showa twin chamber forks. I got the bike last spring and did some tuning throughout the season as I started to learn more and started to actually feel deficiencies in handling.
I set the rear sag to 100mm race / 35mm static and as best I can measure I get about 35mm race sag in the front. Playing with the clickers over numerous tuning sessions I ended up full fast on the rebound front and back, and 2-3 clicks from full soft on compression. Having the rebound full fast is the only way to be able to preload the suspension for jumps, otherwise it just floats over. It still feels like it could be faster. Compression feels ok. The bike feels awesome going fast over sand whoops, and feels good going very fast over roots and rocks. Faster than I can maintain for longish sections, and then it starts to deflect as I slow down. Cornering I haven't really got a feel for how suspension settings effect it, but I don't feel anything really scary happening. If I commit to a corner and stay on the gas, it seems to work well. I have never felt it bottom.
I'd like to setup the suspension to re-center the clickers to give me more range for tuning, and try to eliminate some of the deflection off roots and rocks. I don't know what the springs are, but it seems odd I can hit the right sag numbers at my weight with stock springs. I'd rather keep the springs as they seems to be working ok, and soften the rebound damping some to speed it up a bit.
I found the stock stacks listed in another thread, and I pulled one fork apart to confirm that the stacks are still original.
96 RM250: Base 17x.1 17x.1 14x.1 12x.1 10x.1 9x.2 11.4x.4 (4) 12.54x2.54 Rebound 17x.1 (3) 9x.2 17x.1 15x.1 13x.1 11x.1 9x.2 11.4x.4 (2) 12.54x2.54 Midvalve 13.3x.1 17x.15 17x.1 (4) 8x1.7 (collar) 10x.15 12x.15 0mm float
I've been doing lots of reading and also playing with the demo version of Restackor to get ideas on how certain changes effect the damping profile. For the base valve I'd just like to soften the whole thing up to re-center the clickers on my near full soft setting. I'll add a crossover to soften the LS and remove some from the taper to soften HS.
BV Stock BV Mod
17x.1 17x.1
17x.1 11x.1 14x.1 17x.1 12x.1 12x.1 10x.1 9x.2 9x.2 11.4x.4 (4) 11.4x.4 (4) 12.54x2.54 12.54x2.54
Same thing for the rebound, I just want to make the whole thing softer and recenter the clickers. Accomplished by moving the crossover closer to the face to soften the LS and removing a few from the taper to soften the HS.
Reb Stock Reb Mod
17x.1 (3) 17x.1 9x.2 9.2 17x.1 17x.1 (3) 15x.1 15x.1 13x.1 13.1 11x.1 9x.2 9x.2 11.4x.4 (2)
11.4x.4 (2) 12.54x2.54 12.54x2.54
On the mid valve is where I'll try to help with the deflection off roots and rocks. I'll pull one of the face shims, which will also add some float.
Mid Stock Mid Mod
13.3x.1 13.3x.1 17x.15 17x.15 17x.1 (4) 17x.1 (3) 8x1.7 (collar) 8x1.7 (collar) 10x.15 10x.15 12x.15 12x.15
0mm float 0.1mm float
I would love to hear any input on my ideas. I also realize this is a lot of changes at once, would it be smart to do this in stages? Any input on what to try first? I don't mind going through a few iterations, these forks are super easy to tear down.

I got a Vemar VRX9 a few weeks ago. Made in Italy, DOT and ECE, dual density EPS, super light weight carbon-kevlar, tons of ventilation. Love mine, very comfortable and the lightness feels great. Bounced it on the ground a few times so far and I must say it seems like I was less affected than a similar whack with my old thermoplastic/single density lid. But that's very subjective of course.
I think they go for around $450. Super deals to be found on EBay though because they are a lesser known brand. I got mine new/open box for $160.