Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

Unfortunately the battery screw was already stripped probably from original assembly. We used a pair of nail clippers as pliers to grab a hold of the screw by the edges to turn it. If it hadn't have been for the stripped screw it would have taken us about 10 minutes, as it was it took us 30-40 minutes if you count searching for solutions for removing the stripped screw.

Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.

The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

When reconnecting the antenna wire be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the wire is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connector.

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Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.

What happened was there is a tab on the cable, and that didn't go all the way through the casing. I made this mistake about 3 times. It's not too short, just move the screen a little away from the casing, and pull the cable all the way through without ripping it.

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The two verizon phones I've repaired so far both have a phillips screw that screws into the flathead screw that is shown here. The grounding clip is between the phillips and the flathead. So remove the phillips, and then the grounding clip, that will reveal the flathead screw.

This has been changed several times on the iphone 4 logic board manual, and the changes are always being reverted. There _IS_ a screw in step 16, but someone seems intent on not having it mentioned in the manual. Dunno why...

It may have been mentioned in step 20 at some point, but it isn't anymore. The phillips head screw that's mentioned in step 20 is the one holding the grounding finger to the rear-facing camera corner of the motherboard.

That said, my concerns about step 16 have since been rectified, so I suppose step 20 could've been fixed at the same time.

There's a little rubber piece that you can see in the Step 17 & Step 21 pictures just above the yellow sticker. It fits over the edge of the board where the two ribbon cables from the display/digitizer come up through the board (Step 36). It's there to make sure the ribbon cables don't rub against the sharp edge of the board. This piece loves to fall out when pulling the logic board off. Make sure to put it back in when routing the cables in Step 36, thin edge on the bottom, thicker edge on the top.

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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector from the logic board.

When reconnecting the wifi ribbon connector to the mother board be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the ribbon cable is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connection.

For me, aligning the connector when putting things back together was the most difficult part of this repair. Unlike reattachment of the radio antenna in step 11, it is very difficult to see whether the male/female are aligned properly before applying pressure. Unfortunately, I have no secret as to how to accomplish this, other than to say that my WiFi is working after the repair.

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When replacing the standoff screw closest to the dock connector, make sure it is tightened all the way down. The battery terminal screw fits in the standoff later, and if the standoff isn't tight (NOT TOO TIGHT!) then the battery will not be completely connected and your phone will power off unless tethered. This mimics a bad logic board symptom! Inspect this before replacing your logic board!

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Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.

Remove the logic board.

Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

There's a small rectangular rubber pad at the top of the logic board that prevents the display cables from chafing against the edge of the board. If it comes loose during your repair, make sure to position it correctly when reinstalling your logic board.

When I was attempting to reinstall the logic board (step 21 in reverse), a small rubber bumper came loose from 'somewhere' on the board (I think). It isn't visible in any of the photos, so I really have no idea where it came from!

I don't see it in the pictures either, but I'm pretty sure there is a black bumper that rides on the 'top' of the logic board. I believe it reduces friction between the display/digitizer cables and the top of the logic board.

You can see this "bumper" in steps 16 and 20 (right above the yellow sticker in the pics), and it provides relief for the digitizer and display cables as they both come up and around the edge of the logic board. I put my bumper with its thicker side down towards the inside of the phone and it worked fine.

This is correct, and if you look closely the rubber piece has a "thick" and "thin" side. The "thin" side should be facing "up" on logic board (towards back cover) while the "thick" is pointed "down" (towards screen)

The rubber bumper has a groove in it, which rides a notch along the top edge of the logic board. Its purpose is to ease pressure between the top of the phone and the board. If you look at the top of the frame, there is a little horizontal ridge about 0.8cm (3/8") long which is just the right width of the rubber bumper.

Your images show incorrect placement of the rubber spacer. Step 20 shows correct placement. It is just above the scan code sticker on the motherboard. That is where the ribbon cables roll over, so it makes sense.

I assume the thick side would be facing the rear of the phone, but can not be sure.?

I experienced that when the rubber spacer had the thick side up towards the rear of the phone, the display data cable would plug in but had enough pressure from the rubber bumper pushing up that it would eventually become partially unplugged. This may not be immediately apparent while putting the phone back together because of still being partially plugged in. This was not an issue when the thin side was installed facing up towards the back of the phone.

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Before reassembly, be sure to clean the metal-to-metal contact point on the upper antenna (not the mating halves of its connector) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

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