So I spent a bit of time tring to fix (upgrade) the steering on my HSP. After buying the HSP uni shaft upgrade for the front and adding this alluminium plate this is what I ended up with.

I Hope that this will help any one with the same chassis and if you make any advances on this or have any constructive input or questions post away.

I HAVE NOT YET SCANNED THE SCALE IMAGE/PLAN OF THIS ARM UPGRADE - IT WILL BE DONE AND POSTED IN VERY SOON

I HAVE NOT YET SCANNED THE SCALE IMAGE/PLAN OF THIS ARM UPGRADE - IT WILL BE DONE AND POSTED IN VERY SOON

I HAVE NOT YET SCANNED THE SCALE IMAGE/PLAN OF THIS ARM UPGRADE - IT WILL BE DONE AND POSTED IN VERY SOON

First I made these alloy plates which are made from 1.6mm aluminium. I used a drill that was the same size as the main steering/servo shafts to create the semi-circle so when in place will help to hold the arm in place.

Then I shaved the top bits of plastic off the servo/steering shafts on both sided (left/right arms). These bits of plastic were there for the longer screws to hold the arm that connects the left and rightside of the steering and also the original piont for steering links (ball).

Because the alloy arm will now be alot closer to the steering hub I shortened the steering arm. I did this by removing the srew that is normally in place and making my own by cutting the top of a screw that was a simular size and thred type. The new screws length is about 8mm and I also shaved down the plastic end peaces to around 6mm from screw point to mark just bellow the ring.

Attach the alloy plate to the steering/servo shaft using the original screws, they already have a small thred for metal and will screw into the alloy plate. Make sure that when you drill the screw holes in the alloy plate that they're slightly smaller than the screw to enable the thred to bite.

Also screw in you steering arm and then place into car ( as you can see in the pic that the screw looks to be to long, it will not hit anything but you can shave it to the exact size if you like)

The steps are the same for both steering/servo shafts (L & R). sorry about next pic couldn't rotate it

Once in the car tighten in the arm that connects the two sides from underneath ( I had to drill the hole in the chassis slightly large so the screw would fit sraight up form the underside - original hole just not large enough) You will notice that when you tighten the screw up it will also bite into the alloy plate and now securing it at two points.

Here is the uni in place and you will also notice the areas on the steering hub and the steering hub mount that I shaved to help me get more angle. Removing these areas have not made the steering unit any weaker.

I have noticed that the upgrade uni for the HSP still makes some chatter at the extreme angle so I will have to find or make a better uni/cvd that will not chatter.

I hope this helps anyone with a HSP Chassis

Being a HSP owner I know how frustrating it can be due to the lack of hop-ups or upgrades for this car.

valve_timing wrote:nice steering angle man but you still have some ackerman issues which is causing unparallel steering

Ok Iam a little knew to this but thought that ackerman (inside wheel turning a tighter angle) was a good thing that helps a tighter turning circle. Why does everyone try to create zero ackerman???? is there another post I should read here or can you help??

Ok found this link which helped me understand the advantages and disadvantages of Ackerman a little more. So if I got this right More Ackerman = smoother steering and less tyre drag, Less Ackerman = quicker steering response but some tyre drag.

With RC drifting and such harder tyres would less ackerman make the cars steering drag/slide creating a greater chance for understeer??????

from what i understand of ackerman u try to achive a zero ackerman so that BOTH tires are pointing in the same direction same angle. making ur turning more predicatable, and repeatable. with one tire turning ferther that the otehr one tire is awlays being dragged along atcutally hurting ur turning and drifting.

^^great explanation. Look at the tires from directly above - you can see the inside wheel turning further, this makes the car want to rotate more and follow that inner arc. For road cars, this is desirable - but not with drifting. What you have doesn't look that bad - a little isn't the end of the world.

Hey Mate,I've been attempting this for some time now and have been playing around with the shape of the bell cranks too, as you can see in the attached photo lol

I managed to work out the scale of them and have cut a set out of polycarbonate.I also did the shaving of the steering components like you did, but I made a small slip and now one of my steering knuckles is a little thin in a section ............ Don't suppose that you know where to get the replacement steering components from??Mine is actually the Drift Star, but still the same car and I can't find those parts NitroRCX

I'm also curious to know what CVDs you went for. I have loads of Yokomo CVDs, but they are too short for the Drift Star.

This is an awesome mod and I just wanna say thankyou for sharing it with us

Here are a few pics, first is previous shapes I had played with and the others are my current steering lock [without dogbones]

ok I'm not sure on posting rules for product links but this is where I get alot of my spares from. It's a shop on ebay called " luojie025 " he is the cheapest around and he is always reliable. just search hsp and you will see everything you need, he also stocks alloy upgrades.

The angle on those CVDs that you have is absolutely unreal ............ In the ad, the angle looks to be a crazy angle on them, damn shame they still chatter

It would just mean measuring the existing ones and then purchasing the required lengthed ones from Japan or another online shop. I will give mine a quick measure tomorrow and will investigate what is available in that length.

I'm not sure about the rules on posting parts links on this forum, but I have seen it done. I will post the link on here, if I find some better CVDs and I will also shoot the link into your inbox for ya.

Lets get this HSP / Drift Star steering sorted out once n for all

Cheers for those links, I will take a look and see what I am able to find.

Hey guys just to let you know I have just finished a CS mod on the HSP, I used the Yokomo FCD 2.0. This ended up giving me 2.48 CS 148% which was so crazy I couldn't control it at any point. I will be buying the Yokomo FCD 1.3 that should result in a 1.61 CS ratio (61%) which should handle alot better. I will post the thred in CS mod section under the HSP title in a few days also will upload the ALLOY STEERING upgrade spec. Sorry been a little slack with my HSP chassis and focusing on my TA03F lately

Hey Mate,I've been busy of late and haven't spent much time in my Drift Star.

I'm getting fired up to do a few more mods on it soon and am following your almost ever move

I took your advice and have also purchased those upgraded CVDs and am just waiting to receive them now I'm also considering the CS and Front Oneway mods, but need to buy a dremel first. I found a cheap kit down the road here for $30.00. Has the dremel and a variety of cutting/grinding tools in it. Looks okay, but to be honest, for $30.00 I wouldn't be too phased if it blew up, providing I had finished the 2 mods that I wanna do

I'll look at purchasing a much better dremel in the future.

And like valve_timing said, be nice to see a video of this thing in action soon

Hey $1d3w4y$,I've finally finished my mod and have the photos that I promised ages ago now Hope all is going with yours now mate

Not entirely correct there Nathe, but yes, you do have a point.

You also must remember that when a CVD reaches an angle which is beyond it's limit, it will start to chatter no matter what you do.

For Yokomos, there are now High Angle CVDs and also double jointed CVDs, which allow the joints to turn at an unbelievable angle. The standard CVDs that we are using are realistically only good for roughly 45-55 degree steering lock at most. I think that I have exceeded that today after I put my Drift Star chassis back together finally.

I spent some time away from my Drift Star and have now fully rebuilt it and completed my steering mod. I even went as far as shaving the lower suspension arm in a few locations. I had to shave it to stop the wheel from hitting the inner edge of the arm. It's all good there, but now I have such an angle that the wheel is rubbing on the upper Ball Cup I will now probably lower the ball stud and shave the top Ball Stud hole off the C Hub.

Check out the Photos below:

The First Photos show how it was when it rubbing on the Ball Cup and suspension arm.

Looks like the next step is a c-hub delete, that's probably the way I'll go when I need more lock.

Also, more work is needed on the steering geometry to get rid of the ackerman problem, by giving the steering arms an angle from their pivot (the kinked arms) the ackerman angle has been increased.Maybe a longer ackerman link and relocated pivots are required, or a completely relocated steering assembly.