Are you sure the fuse is not blown? It's in the crossover. Also the L pad can burn open so make sure it's the driver. I have blown the fuse (they once used a light bulb, it might still be so) and even burned up an L pad but the driver is still kicking.

As far as buying a replacement I would take the driver out and call any speaker repair shop with the make and numbers. I buy some repair parts from speakercity.com. I am also lucky to live very close to a speaker repair shop.

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Are you sure the fuse is not blown? It's in the crossover. Also the L pad can burn open so make sure it's the driver. I have blown the fuse (they once used a light bulb, it might still be so) and even burned up an L pad but the driver is still kicking.

As far as buying a replacement I would take the driver out and call any speaker repair shop with the make and numbers. I buy some repair parts from speakercity.com. I am also lucky to live very close to a speaker repair shop.

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How will I know if the L pad is burned open? I have yet to take the thing apart

How will I know if the L pad is burned open? I have yet to take the thing apart

Click to expand...

First, check the fuse, then if you have an ohm meter the attenuator (L Pad) can be checked but you need to know what you are looking at. There are two variable resistors built into an L pad, one is wired across the driver and one is wired through the positive lead feeding the driver, all this built into a single control . When you turn the knob you change both resistance values which changes the "cut" measured in db, of that driver. It's not a boost, it's only a cut, hense attenuation. Checking it requires unwiring it and then knowing the values, of course "open" is not a value, that would be the problem. My suggestion, based on your questions is to let someone at a speaker repair shop look at it.

The fuse in on the board behind the input panel (4 screws). The fuse looks like a dome light bulb for a car, it might be just that) The fuse should have protected the circuit and the driver unless you had a huge inrush current from clipping your amp, it's most likely a fuse. But, if you don't know what you are looking for I would take it to a speaker repair shop.

i hate to say i told ya so, but..................
i told ya so
"We here at fender are commited to maintaining and improving upon the quality of our new SWR line. In the spirit of that commitment we're using cheaper components and no longer offering customer service."

Try e-mailing Bryan Beller. http://www.bryanbeller.com If you do need a replacement part and they are telling you that they don't carry it, Bryan can probably point you in the right direction. He is definitely one of the good guys!

Here's an update. I got a chance to check out the cab in question. The fuse was fine. I didn't hear anything comming out of the horn, not even a hiss. So just to check things out I took the horn out of my HT Berggie (heavy little sucker) and stuck it in the swr cab just on a hunch. My horn worked fine so I guess the swr horn was blown. I was able to locate one from the dude that makes the avatar cabs. He already new which one was needed.
Now i just have to sit and wait.