Your Guide to Istanbul: What to do

Istanbul is one of my favourite cities in the world. I love the mix of old and new, the traditional and the trendy.

It is a city of three parts. The historic Sultanahmet on one side of the Golden Horn, the fun European side of Beyoğlu and its many suburbs on the other and the Asian side divided from the rest of the city by the Bosphorus. All are fascinating and all have their own attractions.

The most important thing to do when planning a trip to Istanbul is to allow enough time to explore. Too much to see and too little time is a common catch cry from those returning after a visit to this wonderful city.

In Sultanahmet

1.The Topkapi PalaceThe palace was the home of the Ottoman sultans during the 15th to 19th centuries. Four courtyards with beautiful gardens and fountains surround a multitude of buildings housing the Harem…a must see, the Imperial Treasury…don’t miss the stunning 86 carat pear shaped Spoonmaker Diamond, the armoury, the Hall of the Privy Chamber and the Throne Room where the Sultan received his guests. Walk to the end of the garden for a fabulous view over the Sea of Marmara.

As you can imagine, this is a very popular place to visit. My advice is to arrive just before opening time and make the harem your first stop as this becomes very busy later in the day.Open every day except Tuesday from 9am -5pm . Tickets can be purchased just before the second gate.
Tickets to the Harem can now be bought at the same time at an extra cost of 15TL.

2.The Archaeological MuseumsThere are three museums in the complex: the Archaeology Museum which houses the famous Alexander Sarcophagus and the Athena Temple from Assos, the Museum of Ancient Orient which displays antiquities and the Museum of Turkish ceramics. On the edge of the grounds of the Topkapi Palace, it can be reached by walking down the hill in the first courtyard of the Palace or via it’s own entrance near Gülhane park.Open daily except Monday

3. Istanbul’s Hidden Street
I’m popping this one in here as Istanbul’s Hidden Street aka Sogük Çesme Sokak, takes you from the edge of Gülhane Park to the Topkapi Palace. Beautifully restored wooden ottoman houses make this cobbled street one of the prettiest in Istanbul.

4. Aya Sofia or Hagia Sofia

Built in 537 as a Church, it later became a mosque in 1453 and finally, in 1935, a museum. You will be in awe of its beauty as you stand under the dome taking it all in. Take the steps to the gallery where stunning mosaics dating back to the 12th century can be seen. As one of the most beautiful buildings in Istanbul it is a sight that shouldn’t be missed! Read more about Aya Sophia here.Open daily except Monday.

5. Basilica CisternJust on the edge of Sultanahmet Square, diagonally opposite the entrance to Aya Sofia, is this wondrous reminder of the past. The cavernous underground Basilica Cistern was originally used to store water for the palace and other buildings in the area. Don’t forget to look for the medusa heads! See what you are looking for here

6. Sultanahmet Imperial Mosque or Blue MosqueAcross Sultanahmet Square facing Aya Sofia stands the city’s main Mosque with its six minarets. It is known affectionately as the Blue Mosque because of the blue Iznik tiles that decorated the walls. You need to make sure you are suitable clothed to enter this mosque.

Just around the corner from here is the Arasta Bazaar, a touristy market that sells high end merchandise but better than most!

7. HippodromeYou will have probably walked over the Hippodrome without realising that this was once the scene of chariot races and the centre of Byzantine life. Three statues still remain here.The Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts also overlooks the Hippodrome.

8. Kalpali Çarsi or Grand BazaarI can guarantee you will get lost in the maze of streets and passages that is the Grand Bazaar. Each trade is congregated in its own area: carpet sellers in one street, goldsmiths in another. There are some good buys on the leather street whilst the arts and crafts, ceramics and brassware areas may also tempt you. You’ll need a rest at some stage so pop into the Fez Cafe in the centre of the old part of the market for beautifully served refreshments and to plan your next stop… from here it is a ten minute walk to the Süleymaniye Mosque!

9. Süleymaniye Mosque|This beautiful mosque was designed by the Ottoman Empire’s most famous architect, Mimar Sinan. It is the largest in Istanbul and can be seen from miles around. In the garden just past the old graveyard are two mausoleums that house the tombs of Sultan Suleiman 1 and his family. Don’t miss the views over the Bosphorus from the other side of the mosque!

10. Spice MarketBack down on the water, near to the New Mosque (which is very old) is the Spice Market. Wander the covered alleyways of shops selling spices, fragrances and dried fruit and every flavour of lokum..turkish delight..you could want. Outside you can buy your cheeses, meats and nuts.

11. Rüstem Pasha MosqueNear here is my favourite mosque in Istanbul, the Rüstem Pasha Mosque. Stunning Iznik tiles fill the mosque and its hidden position means that you may be able to enjoy this peaceful and beautiful mosque on your own. The directions are here!

12. Chora MuseumNear the old walls of the city, about 20 minutes from Sultanahmet, is one of the finest examples of a Byzantine Church. The Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora, known as the Chora Museum has 14th century mosaics and frescoes that dazzle. In similar fashion to the Aya Sofia, it later became a mosque and finally a museum. Whilst you are here, wander around the cobblestone streets with their wooden Ottoman houses before taking in the view from the nearby fifth century city walls.

13. Take a Bosphorus Cruise.Old palaces and mansions line the shores of the Bosphorus, Istanbul’s waterway that divides its European and Asian sides. See these as you cruise all the way to the Black Sea or take a shorter trip to just past Istanbul’s second bridge. Şehir Hatları, Istanbul’s official ferry company offers three different tours including a night tour. Their ticket office in Eminönü is the one closest to the Galata Bridge.

The European Side

14. Galata BridgeFishermen line both sides of Galata Bridge day and night. On the level below you’ll find a wide range of fish restaurants. As you walk from the Eminönü, the Galata Tower rises like a beacon. Walk up the Camondo Steps, or take the street that leads you pass the music shops. The historic funicular that runs from Karaköy to Tünel may just be the answer for those that do not like hills!

15. Have a Fish SandwichAs you come over the bridge, on the left you will see the Karaköy fish market. Wander through and listen to the banter of the sellers trying to get you to buy from them. Restaurant owners will also try and attract your attention but keep walking for at the end of the market you will find two guys on the right standing over their barbeque making fabulous balik ekmek or fish sandwiches. If you find yourself near the Ataturk Bridge on the Fatih side, Mercan from Tarihi Eminönü Balikcisi makes a mean balik ekmek too!

*Since writing this guide, the government demolished the fish market in late 2015. I’m sure some of these vendors will pop up in a new place before too long and when I hear about it I’ll let you know. In the meantime, I’ll be heading to Fatih!

16. Galata Tower
The 360 degree view from the top of the tower is stunning…especially at sunset! The streets around the tower are home to many fabulous boutiques and cafes.

17. Walk the length of İstiklal Caddesi to Taksim.Keep walking up the hill from the Galata Tower and you will reach Istanbul’s famous pedestrian avenue, İstiklal Caddesi which you can take all the way to Taksim Square. If you don’t feel like walking, one of the famous historical red trams will be only too happy to take you! Explore the side streets that lead from here…there’s a whole new world waiting to be found!

18. Explore CihangerI loved staying in this area on our recent trip to Istanbul. Head to the intersection of just near the Firüzaga Mosque to start the day with a fabulous Turkish breakfast but don’t forget to try the pickle juice from Asri Tursucu before heading back to Istiklal Caddesi or down the hill to Karaköy. Orhan Pamuk’s Museum of Innocence is nearby.You’re also not far from the Istanbul Modern so maybe it’s time for a bit of culture!A Foodies Tour in Istanbul has many suggestions for here and the Beyoğlu area.

19. Istanbul ModernModern and contemporary Turkish artists, sculptors and photographers are showcased in this renovated dockland warehouse where ships still berth next door. The cafe has great views over the Bosphorus from its verandah.

20. Rainbow Stairs
If you’re walking from the Istanbul Modern to the Dolmabahçe Palace, keep a look out on the other side of the road for the painted steps that join Findikli to Cihanger (Cafe Nove is on the corner)
A local resident painted the stairs to brighten the area but two days later the council painted over them in boring grey! There was such an outcry that they were redone! There are now quite a few stairways in the area that have been painted.

21. Dolmabahçe PalaceUnder Ataturk, this Sultan’s Palace originally built in 1856 became the Presidential Palace and the place of Atatuk’s death on Nov 10, 1938. The crystal mirrors, baths and beautiful glass decorations are all worth seeing but most go to see the famous Baccarat staircase and massive chandelier in the ceremonial hall. Its location on the Bosphorus is pretty special too!

22. Visit Ortaköy

The main tram line stops in Kabatas. From here it is an easy walk to Ortaköy. You will know you’re here when you see the Ortaköy Mosque (known also as Grand Imperial Mosque) standing proudly in front of the Bosphorus Bridge..the first bridge that crosses the Bosphorus. Wander through the streets of this popular village for some delightful window shopping or cafe spotting.
Instead of walking on to Bebek, you could catch the funicular from Kabitas to Taksim and then walk back along Istiklal Cadessi or take the short walk to Nişantaşı

23. Walk along the shores of the BosphorusI am starting this walk in Arnavutköy but you could also walk from Ortaköy to here! If you’re feeling very energetic, you could even start from Karaköy or the Istanbul Modern Gallery!

Arnavutkoy is a small historic village that is known for its wooden ottoman houses. Ottoman aristocrats chose this area and Bebek as the place to build their summer houses. Don’t forget to walk amongst the homes behind those that front the waterfront. Arnavutkoy is also known for its fish restaurants but we decide to have a snack and share a delicious lahmacun from Fistik Kebap

From here continue your walk along the shores of the Bosphorus to Bebek.Bebek is a trendy village in comparison to Arnavutkoy. Fashionable boutiques and gift shops are dotted along the street amongst the many coffee shops and restaurants. We lunched at Kantin Bebek, an off shoot of the famous restaurant in Nişantaşı, eating fabulous takeaway food at a table outside.

24. Rumeli HisariIf you’re feeling energetic, keep walking along the water to the ruins of the old fortress of Rumeli Hisari

Rumeli Hisari is open everyday except Wednesday

25. Taksim SquareTaksim Square, known as the heart of Istanbul, lies at one end of Istanbul’s famous Istiklal Cadessi. The Independence Monument, at the southern end of the square, commemorates Attaturk’s roles as military commander-in-chief and as a statesman. To the north, Cumhuriyet Caddesi takes you to Nisantasi.Keep in mind that there is also a funicular from Kabitas to Taksim

26. NişantaşıNişantaşı is Istanbul’s most fashionable shopping and residential area. Besides great shopping, there are some interesting art galleries, fun cafes and my favourite restaurant, Kantin. Walk down Abdi İpekçi where you will find international labels including Prada, Cartier,Louis Vuitton and even Laduree! There are more cafes and shops on MimKemal Öke and AtiyeSokak

The Asian Side

27. Visit KadiköyEven though the Marmaray Tunnel has since opened, I would still catch the ferry to Kadikoy. There’s something very relaxing about being on the water! As you pass the Ottoman train station at Haydarpasa, you know you are getting close! The Kadikoy daily market is the place to go. Beautifully arranged stacks of colourful fruit and vegetables, fish shops touting for business, nut sellers, sweet sellers and fabulous spice shops all compete with the aroma of coffee from the nearby cafes.From the ferry, cross the main street and head to the right

Not far from here, Bagdat Caddesi is one of the well known shopping boulevards in Istanbul. Here you will find famous names in fashion along the tree lined street…Louis Vuitton, Prada, Burberry, they’re all there!

28. Eat at Ciya Sofrasi
Ciya Sofrasi is the place to go for delicious Anatolian cuisine. Here you will try dishes that you won’t find at other restaurants thanks to the owner, Musa Dağdeviren’s devotion to finding old traditional recipes. The menu changes with the seasons, the quality is always good. There is also a kebab restaurant over the road.

Ciya Sofrasi: Güneşli Bahçe Sokak No:43 Kadiköy

No where in particular but everywhere…..

29. Drink Turkish CoffeeThick, black, unfiltered coffee…”coffee so thick a water a buffalo wouldn’t sink in it”….hence the name of one of Istanbul’s best, Mandabatmaz …manda means water buffalo and batmaz means doesn’t sink.If you’re not a coffee drinker, don’t worry cay (pronounced chai) is served as well!

Olivia Geçidi (near St. Antoine Cathedral on İstiklal Caddesi)

30. Have a Turkish BreakfastThere’s nothing quite like having a Turkish breakfast. Plates keep coming to the table….different types of cheese, various home made jams, tomato and cucumber salad, olives and dips, sometimes there’s pancakes and borek. Then there’s that fabulous Turkish dish of menemem…eggs with tomato and peppers that can’t be beaten!

31. HamamYou’re either a hamam person or you’re not. I’m of the latter category so these recommendations come via trusted friends. If I was tempted, I would head to the Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam, next door to the Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque, not far from Istanbul Modern. I did try, but I was waylaid in their great gift shop and ran out of time!! Next time!

Photo used with permission from Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam. Taken by Ahmet Ertuğ

If you’re on the Sultanahmet side, Jo Kavagnagh recommends the recently renovated Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamam in Sultanahmet Square. You can read about her experience here

32.Visit the MarketsIstanbul’s neighbourhood markets sell everything from fruit and vegetables to clothing and appliances. Held on different days of the weeks, each enjoys their own local atmosphere. There’s a lot of markets in Istanbul but if you’re looking for something to do on a Sunday, you can make it market day and head first to the Kastamonu Market then walk on to the Tarlabasi Market!

Kastamonu Market

Sellers from the Black Sea area of Kastamonu leave home on Saturday night to be in Istanbul to sell their produce at the Sunday market in Kasimpaşa, an area of Beyoğlu. Autumn offered us a fabulous range of new season’s porcini, bags of walnuts, mounds of garlic, pastes and purees that I wished I could bring home, crates of eggs still with the straw stuck to them and fresh locally baked bread. If you can’t visit this area of Turkey, a visit to the Kastamonu market will take you there.The Kastamonu market is at Toprak Tabya Sokak

Tarlabaşi MarketJust down the hill from İstiklal Caddesi is the residential area of Tarlabaşi, an area that is so different to that you have just left and one that would not normally be on a tourist’s itinerary if it were not for its Sunday food market where, after shopping for fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese and spices, you can buy a new outfit, shoes or even new curtains! Change is coming for the 19th and 20th century row houses that are now boarded up, are soon to be restored as part of a modern development. In the meantime, head here for an authentic local market.

From Istiklal Caddesi follow Sakiz Agaci Caddesi across Tarlabasi Caddesi and continue downhill until you come across the market.

Other MarketsBeşiktaş Market…held every Sataurday Nüzhetiye Caddesi.Fatih Market…known as Çarşamba Pazarı, it is held every Wednesday Behind the Fatih MosqueKadiköy Market….held every Tuesday and Friday Mandıra Caddesi

33. Roof top BarsWatching the sun set from one of Istanbul’s many roof top bars is a must! Mikla, at the Marmara Pera Hotel is my favourite but there’s also a fabulous view from 360 in Istiklal Caddesi. Just around the corner, Leb-i-Deyra may not be as high but it’s just as much fun on its small seventh floor balcony overlooking the Bosphorus. In Sultanahmet, head to the roof top bar at the The Four Seasons.

34. Take a food TourWant to know the food secrets of a city…take a food tour. We can highly recommend our tour of Kadiköy with the knowledgeable Tuba Satana from Istanbul Food. The post, A Foodies Tour in Istanbul was written after a tour of the Beyoglü area with Istanbul Eats. Delicious Istanbuloffers exactly that…delicious tours of Istanbul as well as cooking classes!

35. Visit the Princes IslandsEscape the city for a day and head to the peace and quiet of the Princes islands, a group of nine small islands that lie about 20 kms south of the city in the Sea of Marmara. We visited Büyükada, the largest and most popular island. Cars are banned, so join the queue for a horse drawn carriage tour of the island through pine forests and past 19th century wooden houses.

Ferries leave from Kabitas…IDO’s fast ferry takes abpout 55 minutes whilst the slower local ferry takes about an hour and a half. The weekends are very busy so try and go during the week.

36. Last and by no means least….eat lots of Turkish food!Where to start…you’ve got to try it all! From the many fabulous bites offered on the street, to cheap and hearty meals at tradesman’s cafes, specialist Black Sea dishes, mezes choices at local meyhanes and delicious fusion cooking to rival any top restaurant in the world, Istanbul is a gourmet’s delight. The restaurant post is coming…

Have you been to Istanbul? Are there any places you think should be added to this list?If so, I’d love to read about them in the comments!

45 Responses to Your Guide to Istanbul: What to do

This has got to be one of the best posts I’ve encountered on any travel/food blog! It is extremely comprehensive, full of great information and the photos are stunning. I know it is going to be referred to continuously during the planning of our trip to Istanbul in July. Thanks Jenny and well done on a fabulous post!

Thanks Jenny for your kind comment. I’m glad you’ll be able to use it for your visit in July. You’ll love Istanbul. The hardest part is trying to see as much as you can in the time you have there! Have a great trip!

What a fabulous guide! The more detailed posts focusing on a specific thing are great, but this really gives one a sense of just how much there is to see and do in this fascinating city. I wish I could click my heels and be there tomorrow!

I loved Istanbul when I was there 25 years ago!! It looks like Istanbul has grown up too 🙂 I loved the bazaar and the tiles in the mosques. If I went back I’d definitely visit more food markets and those rainbow steps.

Wow! What a post and what a place –
Like Annabel I visited Istanbul many moons ago when travelling overland from Australia to England and spent 3 weeks there during which time I absolutely fell in love with the place.
Such a treat reading your post, so rich in imagery and information.
How long were you there for to cover so much of the city?

This is ONE AMAZING and very thorough guide. You’re not working for the tourism board are you? I will recommend it to anyone going to Istanbul – and only wish I had a ticket in my hand right now so I could do everything you suggested.

Oh lovely, you’ve whetted my appetie. I went there when I was 20 and am sure it’s changed a lot since then, it was such a gateway to the East, bet that still holds. My sister was there recently and was raving about it. Would love to get back there. I remember being so thrilled to go to The Pudding Shop which was a famous cafe in the 60s and 70s when my hippy aunty was doing the overland India trail…, just Googled it and it looks like it’s still there.

I’d head straight for the Bazaar and the mosques… but there’s so much more to see too. Lovely to visit with you.

Maybe Istanbul will be in your future travels Seana! I’m sure it has change a lot since you were there..it’s certainly changed in the 6 or 7 years we’ve been going there! Fancy the Pudding Shop still being there..some things never change!

What a lovely roundup of Istanbul, I’m going to print this out and take it with me when I finally get over there! The things that most stood out to me from this list as “must-dos” are visiting the beautiful mosques, inhaling yumminess at the spice market, visiting the rainbow stairs for a fun photoshoot, a sunset viewing from a rooftop bar, and of course, a HUGE turkish breakfast complete with their coffee:-)

You’ve chosen some fun things from the list Jess! I love that the list can be used this way…there’s certainly too many things there to do everything in the usual amount of time people have in a city. Hope you get to visit Istanbul soon!

Wow, this is one feat of a post Jenny!! My brother and his girlfriend are going to Istanbul in April so I’m going to send them a link to this list of things to do now! This post is so detailed that I would assume it was written by someone who lived there!

Thanks Shing. I’d love to live there! We been to Istanbul five times over the last couple of years and I still love it! Having two weeks there on our last trip was fabulous.There’s still a lot more to see so I think I have to go back yet again!!

Well, my short list of things to do in Istanbul is now much longer!! What a colorful and magical city with so much amazing history. I imagine that even if I had a year to spend it wouldn’t be enough time.
Now, I’m off to read more about the food 😉 Thanks, again!

I wish I had found your website before visiting Istanbul last week, you really covered it all! I would have loved to explore the Asian side a bit but hadn’t found much to recommend it, until now. We are in the midst of 6 months of travel, I will be sure to check out your other posts BEFORE we go there next time. If you are interested in reading about our time in Istanbul, we’ve started a travel blog as well and you can read about it here: http://ashlanddispatch.com/destinations/turkeys-beating-heart/. We also have posts up about Cappadocia, Bodrum, Copenhagen, Vancouver, Grand Cayman, and many more!

What a shame you missed it Alex…and the Asian side. I love the market on this side and of course lunch at Ciya is always a must! I’m sure that if you love it as I do, you’ll head back there again. I
I’ll pop over and read about your Istanbul adventures. Have fun on your travels!

I’m reviving this post for you! I am headed there in June, so thanks for all the recommendations! I googled the rainbow stairs and they don’t seem to be there via Google Earth circa July 2015. I wonder if they painted over them again? Thanks for the blog!

Thanks Annie. Sometimes the photos on Google earth are taken a long time ago. I doubt that they wouldbe allowed to paint over them. Walk along the path between Istanbul Modern and the Dolmabahce Palace and hopefully you will see them! have fun…Istanbul is the best!!

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I love to travel! I love exploring the markets, trying new tastes and finding fabulous restaurants so this blog is also about food!
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