Pages

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

The Opera Cocktail

The Opera Cocktail was a classic in pre-Prohibition days. And no wonder—its lightness and clean, crisp flavor make it the perfect palate cleanser before a summer dinner.

We’ll be drinking it to celebrate the opening of Opera Theatre of Saint Louis, a summer opera festival that runs from late May through late June. Tonight marks their second performance (Mozart’s The Magic Flute), and in June they’ll be presenting the world premiere of Gordon & Vavrek’s Twenty-Seven. More about all of this later.

Even if you can’t make it to a performance at Opera Theatre, you might want to celebrate another opening: This post marks the beginning of our Summer Sippin’ and Snarfin’ Series. And the Opera Cocktail makes an excellent opening number. It’s a celebration in a glass!

Recipe: The Opera Cocktail

This cocktail is a mixture of gin, Dubonnet, and maraschino liqueur. So if you bought some Dubonnet to make The Dubonnet Cocktail, which we discussed a few weeks ago, now you know what to do with the rest of the bottle.

Our post offers the “standard” recipe for this drink. In the Notes, I discuss a rum-based version that’s also worth your consideration.

This recipe serves 1, and takes about 5 minutes to prepare.

Ingredients

1½ ounces gin (use “London” dry gin; see Notes)

½ ounce Dubonnet (the rouge—red—variety)

¼ ounce maraschino liqueur

dash of orange bitters (optional, but improves the drink, IMO)

twist of orange or lemon peel, or slice of orange, as garnish (optional)

Procedure

Place the gin, Dubonnet, maraschino liqueur, and bitters (if using) in a mixing glass that is half filled with ice. Stir vigorously until the ingredients are well chilled—about 20 to 30 seconds.

Strain the mixture into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a twist of orange or lemon peel, or a slice of orange, if desired. Serve.

Notes

Dubonnet is a sweet-tasting, wine-based apéritif that, like vermouth, incorporates herbal flavors. It also contains a bit of quinine, which gives it a slightly bitter tinge. In fact, Dubonnet originally was concocted to entice French legionnaires in North Africa to consume quinine, which helps combat malaria.

Because Dubonnet has a relatively low alcoholic content (19 percent, or 38 proof), I always store it in the refrigerator after I open a bottle (to retard oxidization). Dubonnet won’t necessarily go “bad” if you don’t refrigerate it, but after a couple of months its flavor won’t be as bright.

Maraschino liqueur is made from Marasca cherries, including the crushed cherry pits. It’s a clear liquid with a taste that’s the polar opposite of the sweet, brightly colored “maraschino” cherries you might put on ice cream or use as a cocktail garnish. This liqueur was developed at a Dominican monastery in Venetian Dalmatia during the 16th century. It wasn’t named “Maraschino” until about 200 years later, when industrial production began.

When a cocktail recipe specifies gin, it’s usually understood these days to mean London dry gin—which is also the type most commonly found in liquor stores. Any good name-brand dry gin will work well in this drink.

In addition to London dry, you might see Dutch or Belgian gin (sometimes called jenever or genever), which is made from malt rather than grain. There’s also Old Tom Gin, which has a sweeter taste. Both of these varieties are less common than London dry.

Why stir this drink rather than shake it? Because the main ingredients in it are clear liquids. Shaking forms oxygen bubbles, which give drinks a somewhat cloudy appearance. That’s no problem when you’re using opaque ingredients like citrus juice, but slightly unattractive when you’re serving a drink like this one, which should be crystal clear.

Speaking of citrus, David Embury mentions a version of this drink that substitutes white rum for gin and includes lime juice instead of maraschino. To make it, add 1½ ounces white rum, 1½ ounces Dubonnet, and ½ ounce fresh lime juice to a cocktail shaker half-filled with ice. Shake until cold (you’re shaking rather than stirring this time because of the lime juice), and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a twist or an orange slice. I may like this drink better than the gin version—but then I like lime, a lot.

Is Embury’s version really a variation on the Opera Cocktail, or is it another drink entirely? Cocktail historian extraordinaire David Wondrich says the rum/Dubonnet/lime juice mix should be called a Rum Dubonnet. He also insists that the rum should be golden, not white. All of which proves once again that cocktails (and their history) can be confusing.

So what’s Opera Theatre of St. Louis (OTSL)? Well, it’s a small production company that presents multiple performances of four different operas each year. The setting (Loretto-Hilton Center at Webster University) is small and intimate, with dreamy acoustics. Every seat is excellent—indeed, most seats are closer to the stage than the first row at New York’s Metropolitan Opera. This year OTSL will be performing Mozart’s The Magic Flute, Donizetti’s The Elixir of Love, Gordon & Vavrek’s Twenty-Seven, and Poulenc’s Dialogues of the Carmelites.

OTSL performs all their operas in English—which, in the case of established works, mostly means “in translation.” This annoys some opera fanatics (such as, well, Mrs. Kitchen Riffs). But OTSL often presents newer, edgier works written in English, like this year’s Twenty-Seven. And Corigliano and Hoffman’s The Ghosts of Versailles. Not to mention John Adams’ Death of Klinghoffer, which they did a few years ago (that was a real treat—one of the best performances we’ve seen anywhere, ever).

The sheer variety and depth of what they perform, and their ability to attract young opera singers—many of whom go on to become featured performers in more prominent opera companies, like New York’s Met—make Opera Theatre of St. Louis a wonderful experience (in fact, it’s almost enough to make Mrs K R forgive them for singing everything in English.) Not surprisingly, Opera Theatre of St. Louis attracts visitors from around the world, and many of its productions are reviewed in prominent publications like the New York Times and the Wall Street Journal.

What’s the deal with the Summer Sippin’ and Snarfin’ Series? Well, for the past couple of years on Kitchen Riffs, we’ve featured the Summer Sippin’ Series (from Memorial Day through Labor Day, we’d feature a cocktail each week). We were doing two posts a week then, so the other post would generally be food related. Now that we’re doing only one post a week, we decided to modify the series to make sure we offer plenty of food recipes. So the Summer Sippin’ and Snarfin’ Series will feature many cocktails (even a couple of weeks with back-to-back cocktails; next week’s post will be a cocktail too), but we’ll also post lots of summer-appropriate recipes. That’s our idea of win-win.

“That’s the one with four operas, right?” I said. “And it goes on for something like 15 hours?”

“Yes, indeed,” said Mrs K R. “All of them glorious!”

“Think I’d rather hear about that opera we’ll be seeing in a couple of weeks,” I said. “You know, Twenty-Seven.”

“I don’t know much about it,” said Mrs K R. “It hasn’t been performed yet. We’ll be attending the world premiere.”

“So you don’t really know the story line?” I said.

“No, because this will be the world premiere,” said Mrs K R. “I just know it’s about Gertrude Stein and the Lost Generation of expatriates in Paris. You know, Hemingway and Fitzgerald and all. The title refers to 27 Rue de Fleurus, where she lived with Alice B. Toklas and held her salon.”

“Any idea what the music is like?”

“What part of ‘world premiere’ don’t you understand?” said Mrs K R. “It’s never been performed, so there are no recordings and no reviews. Only a very few people—mostly the composers, the performers, and the musicians—know the details.”

“Well, at least we know what this Opera Cocktail is like,” I said. “And it makes me want to sing with joy!”

Hi Laura, the rum version is really good! Particularly if you like lime (as I do). And those conversations are always fun to write (and actually pretty characteristic of how we actually talk!). Thanks for the comment.

I love the Opera cocktail; though I haven't had one in a bit I must admit; this looks beautiful though John and maybe it's time to put it into my rotation!

OK, so help a girl out. When I was growing up, and as long as I can remember, there was an outdoor theatre experience that I remember going to often. Even if bored by the performance, we always enjoyed the experience; thinking it was down near Forest Park maybe? Do you know what that was/is? Now I'm dying to remember!

Hi Barb, this cocktail is definitely worth revisiting. You're talking about the Muny Opera. Great place! Not really opera -- more musicals and Broadway shows and such, but loads of fun. You''re right that it's in Forest Park, and well worth visiting. Thanks for the comment.

what a gorgeous,clear and crisp sip....terrific recipe and outstanding clicks as always, your posts are always inspiring....loved the use of maraschino liqueur and orange bitters together,wonderful and delicious,thanks so much :-)

I actually smiled, when I read the title of your post. Oh boy another cocktail. I am enjoying your offerings immensely. In fact I was influenced to try a Kentucky Kiss the other night, just because reading your blogs has made adventuresome! Woo Hoo! I'll drink to that.

It is a very clean, smooth and pretty-looking cocktail. I'm going to have to learn how to twist lemon peel like that! This really does look like a drink that you would enjoy prior to going somewhere fabulous like the opera xx

Sounds like you have a great season ahead of you! And so do we! Everything you do for us John, is a win-win! And if it wasn't for you, my liquor cabinet would not be nearly as stocked! You know those things that count!

Maraschino liqueur? You never cease to amaze me John! Where do you find all of these different flavored liqueurs and alcohols? I bet your liquor store loves you. :) I'm not a big opera fan but I could easier become a fan of the Opera Cocktail.

Hi MJ, opera certainly isn't everyone's cup of tea, but I think this cocktail sure is! So to speak. ;-) I'm lucky in that I'm within a 15 or 20 minute walk of two really good wine and liquor stores. Or maybe I'm unlucky that way? :D Thanks for the comment.

I have never heard of Dubonnet before - must give it a try sometime. I just had a little read about Gertrude Stein - she spent several years studying medicine at Johns Hopkins, before moving to Paris. The new opera should be interesting to watch.

Hi Fran, Gertrude Stein was such an interesting, complex person. We're really looking forward to the opera! And had the rum version of this drink this evening, in anticipation. ;-) Thanks for the comment.

I love the opera, Italian opera, of course and I would love sipping on one of these delightful and refreshing drinks while waiting for the performance to begin. Opera, not to be confused with the painful Chinese opera where you have a lady singing with horns...Chinese opera requires as I recall at least 4 of these classy opera cocktails just to get me to think about going into the performance. Have a super weekend. Take Care, BAM

Hi Bam, ladies with horns aren't just Chinese -- the Wagner operas Mrs KR was discussing used to have those as a matter of course! They've gone out of fashion, thank goodness, but were big in Germanic operas (or so I understand -- I'm certainly no authority!). But definitely not seen in Italian operas, and those are wonderful! As is this cocktail -- perfect for any opera. Thanks for the comment.

Delighted to find out you are an opera lover John! Sounds great that they are starting their season with Die Zauberflote - such a great opera... and what about this Opera cocktail!? I had no idea it existed, but now you know I'm going to have to try it!

We learn something new about you every time John! Who'd have thought you were an opera guy ! I am envious though, I'd love to go and love all these theatres, plays and concert type things and growing up in London, I had opportunity to attend so many, Here, I can't seem to interest anyone, not my husband nor my friends. Oh well. Beautiful cocktail, as usually, I love the colour and can somewhat imagine the taste from your description. Sorry it's taken me so long to get here, for some reason, your emails are still going to my spam box. I can't seem to rectify it :(

Hi Nazneen, opera is great! As is this cocktail. ;-) Weird the email are going into spam, although I've been hearing about similar problems with some blogs. I guess you could try unsubscribing, then resubscribing, although I'm not sure if that would do any good. Thanks for the comment.

Well, now I've got to try this. It seems like something I would love. I do think that Maraschino is a most underappreciated liquor. And I simply adore opera. There is nothing else on his earth like it. Cheers!

Beautiful cocktail. I love that you put your conversation with Mrs. KR at the end - I look forward to it every post. Hope you and Mrs. KR will show up (maybe picture?) one day. I think that day will spike up your traffic... I know all of us enjoy imagining the scene of your conversation. :) Absolutely flawless cocktail shots!