Last night I crawled under my MH and lubricated the moving parts on the electric steps. I had my wife open and shut the door so I could lubricate anything that moved while it was moving. I have done this at least a couple times a season since owning my MH.
I used WD-40 as it won't collect a lot of dust or dirt and wiped excess off anything which doesn't move.
I often see posts on this forum where folks have problems with their steps not working properly. I wonder if this might be due to neglect of rust causing the steps to bind and put undue stress on the motor or other delicate parts?
Is there anything else I should look for or do to keep the steps working well?
Lynn

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Last night I crawled under my MH and lubricated the moving parts on the electric steps. I had my wife open and shut the door so I could lubricate anything that moved while it was moving. I have done this at least a couple times a season since owning my MH.
I used WD-40 as it won't collect a lot of dust or dirt and wiped excess off anything which doesn't move.
I often see posts on this forum where folks have problems with their steps not working properly. I wonder if this might be due to neglect of rust causing the steps to bind and put undue stress on the motor or other delicate parts?
Is there anything else I should look for or do to keep the steps working well?
Lynn

You're doing EXACTLY what you're supposed to and, what a very large percentage of RVers DON'T DO, and that is maintenance on that step system. There really isn't much else to do on them. There's lots of pivot points that can and, often do, get bound up, due to lack of maintenance. As for the use of WD 40, that's fine. Anything will work, just about any oil, spray, spray-grease etc. Do just what you're doing, wiping off excess. Now, if you start to see a build up of debris/grunge/ugly stuff around all the joints, that's no big deal.
Just cruise on down to your local Oreileys or, Auto Zone and pick up a can of Brakleen or, any other spray type carburetor cleaner. Park your coach some place where the run-off won't do any damage. Then, extend your steps and liberally spay all the pivot points and joints. Do it several times 'till the can is empty.
Most of that stuff evaporates rather rapidly. So, all the pivot point well be as new and, you can now relube with your choice of lubricants.
Scott

[QUOTE=Knoxie89;3615642]WD-40 will attract dirt and dust. This is why its bad to use it as chain lube for bicycles.

It's better to use a dry lubricant if possible for something exposed to the type of grime you will pick up on the road.[/QUOTE
I have tried dry lubes before but wasn't satisfied they were the thing to use. I just don't think the light film lasts long on the pivot points. The steps are open often and get hit with rain and I wash my MH often. I would think most dirt and dust would be rinsed off.
Before I lube the pivot points I clean the areas with a brake cleaner to remove any residue.
Lynn

WD-40 is not much of a lube.
It's intended to displace water...Water Displacement #40.
Others much better lube...
Chain lubes come w the tube to get it where you want it...it penetrate small areas and solvent evaporates to leave a thicker layer just wipe off external excess