Camellias Need Extra Help To Get Growing

Gardening - THE PLANT DOCTOR

QUESTION: I planted a 2-foot-tall camellia during the spring. Today it is still 2 feet tall and has produced buds but no flowers. What am I doing wrong?

ANSWER: Camellias need considerable care to become established and start growing in the landscape. The best location for the plant is in an area with filtered sun. Otherwise select a site with morning sun and afternoon shade.

Make sure the soil remains moist as the camellia plant becomes established. If the root ball is dry, give the plant extra waterings until the soil becomes moist. Also add a 3- to 4-inch mulch over the soil surface. Feed the plant lightly every other month March through October for the first year or two.

Flowering should occur during the winter months. New plants with growth problems may not mature their buds. Increase the care to make sure your plant blooms next year.

HOW TO KEEP RATS AT BAY

Q: Your ``December Garden Calendar'' suggests controlling rat feeding in citrus trees. How do I know when they are present, and what is the best control?

A: Roof rats - also known as citrus rats, fruit rats and gray rats - are frequent feeders in citrus trees. They hollow out the fruit leaving only a shell. Fruits with a big hole are seen frequently in local trees.

One of the better controls is to tie traps around the trunk of a tree with the triggers pointing down. The next time a rat tries to climb the tree, it's caught or given a good scare. Set the traps only from dusk to dawn to avoid injuring other species such as squirrels and birds.

Poison baits also can be used but must be placed in a tamper-resistant bait station. Items needed for baiting are available at local hardware stores and garden centers. An old practice of wiring baits to tree trunks is illegal and can cause accidental poisoning. For more information, call your local extension service office for a free bulletin, ``Control of Roof Rats in Fruit Trees.''

SWEET GUM GOING SOUR

Q: I added a sweet gum tree to the landscape during the summer. The tree has grown very little. This fall the leaves are developing dark spots and dropping. How can I help the tree?

A: By now your tree probably has lost most of its leaves since sweet gums are deciduous trees. Some develop leaf spots as they are lost from the tree. This fungal leaf spotting can be ignored.

Do prepare to help your tree make new spring growth. Keep the soil moist during the winter months and maintain a 3- to 4-inch mulch layer over the root ball. Give the tree a special feeding in February before new growth begins with a 16-4-8 fertilizer applied at the lawn or garden rate on the label. Continue the good waterings, and repeat the fertilizer application in June to improve tree vigor.

LET THE SUNSHINE IN

Q: When I moved to Florida last year, I planted a mandevilla and an allamanda. The tags said full or partial sun, so I planted them on the east side of the house. I now have good vines but no flowers. Are they getting enough sun?

A: Most likely you have diagnosed your own problem. The plants need more sun. They are really full-sun plants but can survive in filtered sun and still produce some blooms. The half-day of sun is just not enough, and you should relocate them.

DON'T FRET OAK FOREST

Q: I have more acorns in my yard than any other year I can remember. Why is this happening, and can the acorns damage the soil? I don't want an oak forest either.

A: Your trees are certainly going to make a lot of squirrels happy as they help harvest the crop. The extra heavy production is due to several years of good growing conditions. Even with the spring drought the trees set and held the acorns using foods stored in the trunk from previous years.

If the squirrels, insects and other small animals have their way, it's doubtful many good seeds are going to be left to sprout new trees. If needed, seedlings can be pulled or mowed down to prevent an oak forest. The decomposing acorns do return nutrients to the soil to help feed the tree and nearby turf.

START LAWN FROM SCRATCH

Q: I want to put in a new bahia lawn. I plan to apply a herbicide to destroy the old grass and weeds. After it turns brown, does the old lawn have to be removed before the new grass is installed?

A: The University of Florida recommends a complete renovation of the planting site before adding the new sod. This includes controlling the persistent weeds and tilling the soil. Old plant portions should be raked from the soil and the ground leveled before planting.

Some gardeners do take a chance and mow the old turf close to the ground and then add new sod. This can result in poor root growth and an inferior lawn.