I personally don't feel that high light is sustainable with low tech. Others may pull it off, but I've never personally seen a tank that doesn't explode into an algae farm one day, or just has a slow (several month) decay of the plants.

I personally don't feel that high light is sustainable with low tech. Others may pull it off, but I've never personally seen a tank that doesn't explode into an algae farm one day, or just has a slow (several month) decay of the plants.

No it isn't. I challenge anyone to find me ten successful high light tanks on this forum using low tech methods. Bonus points if it's someone who has previously been struggling.

High light WILL be a problem if you're not providing co2 and regular ferts. If you're having problems and on the verge of giving up the very last thing you want to do is make everything more difficult. High light reduces your margin for error dramatically.

There was a post in this forum where they talked about what is consider low, medium, and high light and someone on the forum measured it. I would suggest reading it if you haven't done so. It will help you out. Sorry I don't remember the link but I'm sure someone on here can link you it.

I have a small tank with my remaining fish.... sadly, some of which, I lost in the move. So there is no rush for me.

I'm going to have to ask you chaps to offer some advice in relation to the basics again as it been a long time since I started a new tank from scratch.

I'm going to get the dirt/soil today and am opting for the UK's John Innes no.3.

I have the following questions:

1. Should I opt for a sand or gravel cap? At this stage I don't have a preference on the aesthetics, but would gladly take some recomendations on what to have and why (most important).

2. Should I fill just just enough water to cover the dirt first and allow it to do..... well, whatever it does with just a little water? I thought I read somewhere that this was a good idea. And then cap with the sand/gravel.

3. What measurement of each should I use?

4. As I am in no rush to get fish back into the tank, how should I deal with the following:
4a) Ammonia/Nitrites/Nitrates - I read somewhere that overloading the ammonia if you do NOT have fish by adding it from a bottle was a good idea (NO fish).
4b) Nutrients for the plants whilst there is no fish.

5. I plan on getting Tetra's, Mollies and Rainbow fish, therefore what other (not fish) fauna would be safe with these (thinking snails and shrimp).

6. (Mainly for UK people here) What is a good source of plants in the UK?

Once again, thank you all for your assistance.

Regards

Lee

Switching to low tech - high light dirt tank..... coming soon to a forum near you!

1. Sand or very fine gravel like 3M color quartz (I think that stuff is discontinued though). Dirt will float through regular sized gravel and you'll have a dirty disaster.

2. I added a bit of water to my dirt when I did it to make it a pliable mud consistency. You don't want to add too much though, or you'll be trying to dump sand on top of a mud puddle and it gets splashy and messy.

3. I like deeper substrates and did about 2 inches of dirt with 1.5 inches of sand on top in the shallowest part. More sand in the back to make a slope effect. Up to 5 inches in some parts. Deeper rooting plants like swords went back there.

I've just found some old paperwork that came with my tank (just started moving the life forms out into my small tank whilst I start over).

My lights are as follows:

2 x 45w (895mm)
T5-technology High-lite.

Does that change anything for me?

Regards

Lee

The lights are 36 inches long, or what we refer to as 36 inch lights. But, our 36 inch T5HO lights are 39 watt lights, so yours are certainly high output lights (HO) or more. Two of those with good reflectors would have to be around 80 cm above the substrate in order to have low enough light to use low tech methods.

If you use floating plants, they will soon cover the entire water surface, and the plants below them will be shaded so they can't grow. Also, those floating plants will use up all of the nutrients in the water, further harming the plants below.

You can use window screen to reduce the light intensity. That would be far better, in my opinion, than trying to use floating plants to do so. I think you really have to decide if you want to go "low tech" (non-CO2) or use CO2, EI dosing of fertilizers, and the increased tank maintenance needed to keep a high light tank from becoming an algae jungle. Then, you can follow which ever of those methods you want, and have a good chance of enjoying the tank.

If you use floating plants, they will soon cover the entire water surface, and the plants below them will be shaded so they can't grow. Also, those floating plants will use up all of the nutrients in the water, further harming the plants below.

You can use window screen to reduce the light intensity. That would be far better, in my opinion, than trying to use floating plants to do so. I think you really have to decide if you want to go "low tech" (non-CO2) or use CO2, EI dosing of fertilizers, and the increased tank maintenance needed to keep a high light tank from becoming an algae jungle. Then, you can follow which ever of those methods you want, and have a good chance of enjoying the tank.

I agree that a shade is better but its not that hard to control floating plats such as frogbit (duckweed on the other hand is ssent by the devil!). I just pull out a handful or two a week and adjust fert doses accordingly.

My opinion is to listen to hoppy and tone out the rest. He has posted some very informative guides to lighting and has experimented a lot for others benefits. Your issue is too much light, and it is a common issue for many people with stock t5ho tank set ups. The best solution is the screen, it reduces overall light to the tank without reducing light coverage. Other ways people go around this is with glass, more for topless tanks though, or through reducing the bulbs. Because all my tanks at topless i raised my lights.

Just an example 1x4 foot strip of t5ho lighting about 650 mm off the substrate was enough to growout hc with no algae. The key is to balance your lighting to your tank needs.

The solution is not buying better substrates, not investing in high tech gear, not changing your light fixture, it is totally to do with cutting the outpu of the light to your substrate.

Your plants are low demand and dont need co2. or ferts beyond fish food. Maybe trace twice a week but that is all. I keep java fern in most of my tanks as an indicator. If it starts to turn brown, i have too much light or not enough nitrate. If daily feedings are not enough to keep up with the java fern demands, then i have too much light.

Just a point about how i keep fish tanks. Cheap diy and simple is my approach. I have been through high tech, expensive substrates abd loys of ei dosing and i find things alwaya crash because i have kids and work that often wear me out and causes me to be lazy with the tanks from time to time. What works for me is sand, balanced lighting and root tabs. Fish waste are normally enough for my rhizome based plants. As long as i get growth witjout trimming headaches im ahead of the game

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