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MALTA

CAPITAL:
VALLETTA
LANGUAGE: Maltese, English
PEOPLE: Maltese, English

The
Republic of Malta consists of the islands of Malta, Gozo and
Comino. It is located in the Mediterranean between Sicily and
north Africa. Its commanding position in the relatively narrow
straits between Sicily and Tunisia makes them strategically
important. Its central location between mainland Europe and
the African continent is the reason that it has been habitated
for thousands of years - and the reason why ownership has been
disputed so many times in its history. The fortifications on
Malta are as impressive as you'll find anywhere, and no wonder
the Maltese have such a thing about defence. The country gained
independence from the UK in 1964.

Tourism is the principal industry within Malta. The climate
is similar to that of Greece, with at least six hours sunshine
a day, even in the winter. It has an international airport at
Luqa and its main sea route is to Sicily. The islands are actually
the peaks of a massive limestone outcrop stretching from Sicily.
Gozo has the advantage of a layer of blue clay that holds moisture
and makes this little island much more suited to crops. The
main island of Malta has only sparse vegitation due to centuries
of over-grazing and erosion. The island does have some natural
sandy beaches. The fortified cities of Valletta and Mdina, plus
the 'Three Citires', all exhibit fascinating evidence of the
turbulant past. The main wonder, after all this conflict, is
the inherently pleasant nature of the Maltese themselves!

With no fresh water supply and only a low rainfall, desaliniation
plants are the necessary source for a stable water supply -
which is inevitably somewhat salty to a visitor's tongue.

Hazel and I felt very young as we waited for our hotel transfer from
the airport after arriving in Malta. We did wonder if we were too
young! Our English group comprised us, an elderly couple who come
every year to the same hotel, a squeaky-voiced, rather tiddly lady
who spoke with rather refined tones and turned out to be a market
stall holder, her cockney partner who was never to be seen without
his baseball hat (even at breakfast), an elegant lady whom we initially
took to be Miss Squeaky's mother, whom we lovingly termed Mrs Spitfire
(she was either constantly feeling her lips for crumbs or accidently
spitting them forth), who called everyone 'darling' (hence the misunderstanding
as she addressed Misss Squeaky and "Jinny darling" from
the start), and a group of three, elderly disabled gentlemen in wheelchairs,
supervised by the husband of one who had the patience of an angel
when trying to get together their enormous luggage and disablement
equipment contraptions, part of which had gone missing. The huge pile
of luggage and this large band of people had to fit into one small
mini bus. Could we ever do it? Of course we could! Transport is an
art on this island. We arrived, baggage and all, late at night, just
in time to drop into bed.

I
do like Malta! It has at least six hours of sunshine every day,
summer and winter

Like the latest cars with global positioning systems, I am at my
happiest when I know precisely where I am. I feel more relaxed about
getting lost just knowing that I am not far from somewhere I knew
where I was! Do you get my point? Consequently, I really do like to
have a map to hand when in a strange place. So the first thing I did
the next morning was to ask for a map of the locality from reception.
The provided a nice coloured map. Splendid! I trotted back to my room
happy - until I looked more closely. Now, I knew that Sliema was bordered
by water on several sides - my country map showed me that - but this
street map showed vivid blue sea all around Sliema! Panic!
Where was it joined to the main island? Had I been asleep during the
airport transfer, perhaps not noticing a ferry ride? Was I really
on the smaller island of Gozo?

Gripping my inner reserves, and coming to my senses, I realized that
a bit of artistic license had been used when producing the map - which
did similar watery confusing things with the street map of Valletta
- so I settled for trying to find out which bit of the map lied. My
point, however, is that if a map like this is meant to help you get
your bearings, what is the point of making it extra difficult? I mean,
some people have trouble enough with maps without this kind of challenge.
Well, that's my gripe out of the way, so let's get on!

I
do like Malta! It has at least six hours of sunshine every day, summer
and winter, it never gets too cold in the winter, practically everyone
speaks English, and many things have an English flavour: as England
was several decades ago. In particular, this goes for the buses. The
'Malta bus' is (in)famous, and you must use them, if only
for the experience. I did, and I've still got the bruises to prove
it. I tend them lovingly. (No, I'm kidding, really.) I'm not entirely
sure how it works, but basically the bus drivers own their own buses,
take a loving pride in keeping them on the road - I mean both by keeping
them intact and by avoiding other drivers - and in providing a very
cheap but reliable service. Thanks to a subsidy, 'cheap' is hardly
the word: you can travel for peanuts. Basically, just about all the
services start from Valletta, the fortified capital, and most run
every 20-30 minutes to each far-flung corner of the main island of
Malta. Be sure to get a seat, though, or you might also be 'far-flung'!
They are all have a yellow skirt, an orange stripe around the waist,
and a white or grey top. Very fashionable, I'm sure you'll agree.
They lovingly explore every undulating, pot-holed mile of the island,
offer all the advantages of 'natural' air-conditioning, and have a
variety of bell mechanisms to test your skills, should you ever consider
getting off. Have small coins available when you get on, pay the driver,
sit down quickly, and enjoy! It is an experience you won't forget.

Do you like history? Whether you do or not, you cannot get away from
in on Malta. There are some 7,000 years of history to mull over here,
and as soon as you get a toe into - or even near - one of the numerous
historic buildings, you will be bombarded by offers of audio-visual
delights to put it all into perspective. Either be prepared to take
notes or just glaze-over at the sheer magnitude of all this stuff
but, if you do the latter, do remember to come out of the experience
impressed at the ongoing tenacity of the Maltese people: they deserve
it!

Prehistoric Malta was inhabited by people from Sicily or Italy and
there has been a strong Italian and African influence as a result.
The Maltese language is a derivative of Arabic and Sicilian elements.
English is the second language, which is widely spoken, and Italian
is also widely understood. If you are into archeology or like ancient
temples, then you will delight in Malta!

The island became part of the Roman and then the Byzantine empires.
Seized by the Arabs in 870 it was conquered and rule by Christian
feudal lords until 1530 when the Knights of St John arrived.
The Knights were a religious an military order who had been ousted
from Jerusalem and Cyprus and who were eventually given Malta as their
base. Next, that chap Napoleon seized the island in 1798 but the Knights
regained possession in 1802. Phew! We're not even into the last century
yet! After a rebellion connected with the French way of doing things,
the island became a British colony in 1814. It was an important staging-post
on the sea route to India via the new Suez Canal, and it developed
a dockyard industry you can still see today, in and literally around
what are called the Three Cities.

How is it that a race so oppressed, so attacked, so embattled, can
be so laid-back and friendly? Of course, they do like the British,
since they were very instrumental in helping them continue to eat
during the Second World War - after being cut-off and bombarded continuously
by Germany and its allies. (A sinking British ship just managed to
make it to the island with vital supplies.) The entire population
was awarded the British George Cross for bravery at this, their last
stand. It still lies in the critical shipping route via the Suez Canal
and the Med to Northern Europe, is still strategic, and, believe me,
it is still heavily fortified. So you need to be, when exploring
its battlements and bastions! Out of all these influences, it is the
Knights of St. John who left the greatest mark, and their hospital
work and armed defence of Christian principles can be seen in many
ways: particularly in the audio-visual treats that I have already
mentioned. The Knights brought peace to the island - after all the
fighting - and peaceful it is today.

Crime is more or less absent. It has one prison and, when I was there,
I found out that out of 82 prisoners, 73 were foreigners, and, of
these, nearly all came from the same middle-eastern country and were
banged-up for drugs-related crime. The Maltese are almost all Catholics,
they have splendid churches all over their islands, and I am sure
that this is at the heart of their gentle, friendly and passive nature.
(Passive until roused to battle, of course!)

Mdina

The
original capital of Mdina - say "im-DEE-nah" - was
a fortified city on a hill. Take one of the wonderful Malta buses
to Rabat, get out, walk across the bridge adjacent to the Howard
Gardens, and you're straight through the walls of this mediaeval
city which is located in the centre of the island. Although inhabited,
silence reigns supreme in Mdina: hence its name: the 'Silent City'.
A quick left, right, left after passing through the Mdina Gate,
will take you to the Mdina Experience, a multi-projector,
multi-lingual extravaganza about the history of Mdina. (Put on your
headphones, dial your flag, and you are away, steeped in history.)
(The square pictured to the right is just outside the Mdina Experience.)
Not far from the little square that hosts this projected history is
the Greek's Gate. Yes, there was a Greek community here!
Want some more history? This town was thought first to have been populated
by the Phonecians around 1000 BC. When Malta came under the Roman
heel, the Governor chose to build his palace there and it housed the
government. The Saracens gave the city its modern name when they arrived
around 870 AD, and they were responsible for thickening the walls
from the nearby town of Rabat. (Thickening city and town walls was
to become a favourite and ongoing occupation of subsequent rulers
of the island, and they had good reason to be careful.)

Although
inhabited, silence reigns supreme in Mdina: hence its name:
the 'Silent City'.

Mdina streets are narrow, designed to offer shade from the hot summer
sun, its little squares are delightful, and it is possible to take
a ride on a horse and carriage, both around the small town and out
to Rabat. (It is a dreadful decision as to whether to support the
owner of the bony horse that clearly needs a square meal, or one of
the perhaps kinder owners like the one we chose: who, when complimented
on the care of his horse, admitted that he looked after it better
than his wife!) But don't just ride! You must walk all this
city's streets to admire some of the best Norman and Baroque architecture
on the island! As elsewhere on the island, you can delight in bougainvillea
in shades of red, white and orange. Take a look in St. Agatha's
church, soon met on the central Villegaignon Street on your
way to the central St Paul's Square, which faces the Cathedral,
the only really open space. Look out for the palaces, now mainly private
homes.

There
are lots of other little streets to explore, but the town is small,
so it will not take too long. Nor can you get lost! Bastion Square
at the end of Villegaignon Street gives you access to the bastion
and some great views across the island. Nearby you will see small
St. Agatha's Square, and just along from here is the Ciappetti
Tea Gardens which I found delightful for a snack. (The picture
shows the narrow street in which it is located: the door on the right!)
They include an enclosed courtyard with overhead vine, another leafy
retreat from the sun. Further around to the east from Bastion Square
is Bastion Street, and this offers another venue for tea at tables
overlooking the tremendous view across the island to the sea and Dingli.
Mdina is a place that you will find hard to forget. I don't know of
a more tranquil town anywhere in the world. If you go to Malta, do
not leave this place out! (Even Mrs Spitfire got here, although Miss
Squeaky and Mr Cockney were too busy scouring the markets of Valletta.)

Valletta

Valletta,
seen here across the harbour from Sleima, is the capital of Malta.
It all happens in Valletta, and it always will, given that all those
Malta buses terminate there. They roam around a central roundabout
at the bus terminus like noisy termite ants looking for pickings.
they honk at each other and potential passengers to make their presence
known, they drive a wedge between you and your companions and, despite
their generally friendly owners, they keep you on your toes - or else
they go on your toes! As with Mdina, Valletta is but a short
walk from the bus terminus across a bridge. You tend to enter all
important towns across a waterless moat in Malta. (There is no water,
remember, so they really do dig ditches, here, big-time!) Did I mention
the fortifications, by the way?

The main street of Valletta is Republic Street, and this goes right
through the town to Fort St. Elmo at the northern end, adjacent to
the entrance of the Grand Harbour - near to which is The
Malta Experience. Yes, there are lots of pre-programmed 'experiences'
in Malta, and this is the principal one. It's another multi-projector,
multi-lingual offering about the history of the island, or there is
The Great Siege of Malta and The Knights of St. John, in
part of The Grand Master's Palace (boss of the Knights),
offering 'Europe's most exciting and thrilling walk-through spectacular
experience ... adopting the latest Hollywood technology to recreate
the life and adventure of the Crusaders'. Now, if you go, remember
this is a quote; I think the nearest this got to Hollywood was, perhaps,
a scriptwriter for this blurb. You walk around - have comfy shoes
- watching TV screens and listening to a commentary in a headset that
goes with you with the correct language CD whirring at your belt.
(I was disappointed, and so far, nothing in this line has come near
to the Time Walk in little Weymouth, England, where you get
the scene for real, plus the sounds and smells of what is represented.
Here is a walk worth doing. But I digress!) You'll need a rest at
one of the shady tables outside The Grand Master's Palace after that
particular experience, and a nice drink and snack there is just the
order. (Caution: If you have a speciality coffee here it really has
spirit! So if you plan to return by ferry, remember that it is a long,
steep hill down to the ferry, and this can be a challenge to those
whom, might we say, are in high spirits!)

Parallel
to Republic Street is Merchants Street, and this is the other
street offering shops - although these are smaller. Apart from the
two streets mentioned, and especially the east-west streets and opposed
to these north-south streets, many of the other streets are narrow
and, it has to be said, shabby! True, they have character, they have
balconies (or overhanging bays to some of us), but mainly they have
dust and grime.

Don't overlook the Lower Barrakka Gardens just east of Fort
St. Elmo for a great view of the Grand Harbour mouth, or the Upper
Barrakka Gardens for a view across this harbour to the so-called
Three Cities.

As
I mentioned more than once, you can get anywhere on the buses from
Valletta. You can also get to Sliema via a ferry from the south-west
corner of the city which, as I said earlier, is considerably lower
than the main part of the town!

As you pass the harbours in Malta and Gozo, note the picturesque
boats, with their high, colourful sides, and the two protective 'sweet
eyes' on either side of the bow.

Sliema

Sliema is the place you may find yourself staying, since there
are many hotels and some of the biggest shops here. Valletta is an
easy bus or ferry ride from The Strand. Bustling with life,
Sliema is where the action is. Just along the northern shore from
here, the action continues, as do the hotels, restaurants and clubs.
St. Julian's Bay contains many of these. Expect to be approached by
time-share vendors in these parts! (Although we were not hassled.)

The Three Cities

The
Three Cities - partly seen here from Valletta, looking across the
Grand Harbour - are named Vittoriosa (originally Birgu),
Conspicua (Bormla) and Senglea. They lie just across
the Grand Harbour from Valletta on outcrops of land. This is the heart
of docklands, and the docks surround the houses, some of
which are one-up and one-down, with little more than air-vents and
a door at the front. Yes, don't pick a B&B here, folks! Yet there
is character here, clean front-doors despite the narrow streets, and
a throbbing humanity. Did I mention the fortifications yet? Not only
are the three cities fortified but they are walled from each other!
Whether this was to stop in-fighting regarding shipping orders or
to secure each one despite the fate of its neighbours I'll leave you
to guess, but these tall (I mean TALL) walls are a bit oppressive.
Well, let's be honest, VERY oppressive. They do, however, serve extremely
well to protect their inhabitants! This area was very heavily bombed
during the war: because of those dockyards.

Yet
there is character here, clean front-doors despite the narrow
streets, and a throbbing
humanity.

A
bit further along the south coast is the Blue Grotto where,
if you are lucky, boatmen will take you inside this rocky outcrop.
When I went it was too choppy and no boats were running: so you'll
have to put up with this distant view. Very close to this is the ancient
temple remains at Hagar Qim. Time did not permit a visit.

Gozo

The island of Gozo is a little rural gem. Here they can actually
grow tomatoes and other vegetables, not to mention prickly pears!
The custom of leaving one's door unlocked still survives here in many
homes. You get to the island by ferry. The buses seem even older here,
if that is possible! You arrive by sea at Mgarr Harbour.
The town is guarded from its highest point by The Citadel
- a somewhat smaller version of Mdina which has its origins with the
Phoenicians. This also contains a fine cathedral, and the present
fortifications date back to the Knights. The island's capital, originally
known as Rabat, is now known as Victoria.

I saw yet another audio-visual treat in Victoria: Gozo 360°
. Entering a very modern and plush cinema - that seemed quite
out of place among the old buildings - I waited with baited breath
to see a surround screen, hear surround sound, boggle at the latest
Hollywood technology. The flat screen was, therefore, somewhat disappointing.
True, I did count 21 projectors used for projecting stills onto 21
patches of the screen, and the presentation was good. But where
do they get the name Gozo 360° from? What would you
expect?

(Must be that Hollywood scriptwriter at work again.)

The
Old Wash House in Fontana makes use of a natural spring. Believe
it or not, one old lady still takes in washing and does it right there.
It wasn't until I developed the photographs that I spotted the pair
of boots hanging from the lip of the wall. Since then I've been extremely
worried about who was hanging there by his toes to dry. The custom
in these parts used to be that a married woman stayed in the house
while her husband was out at work. Perhaps this lady is the only one
to have overcome that, and this is her husband, hanging by her every
word. Clearly she is the worker in her family! Other customs included
putting a potted plant on the balcony to signify there was an unmarried
daughter available for marriage, and leaving the key in the front
door; whether the latter two customs were connected I was not able
to ascertain.

One
of the most famous landmarks hereabouts is the rocky outcrop at Dwejra
known as Fungus Rock (or General's Rock). A plant
there was prized by the knights for its curative powers: hence 'fungus'.
Here you are likely to be accosted by a little man pushing a folder
of postcards and a booklet into your hands saying "Is my living.
Is my living!"(I told you they all spoke English.) The few lira
he asks is actually well worth it for what he offers, so give him
a break! It is his living! Down a nearby track you'll find the Inland
Sea, really just a small salt-water lagoon linked by a rocky
tunnel to the sea. This is a favourite place for subaqua divers. Nearby,
on the relative flat rock adjacent to Fungus Rock, you cannot fail
to find many old fossils - some in the rock and some getting off buses!

Which is my queue to finish, and return to the airport for a flight
home. Here was a great reminder of how windy it can be in Malta. As
I looked out across the airport runway I saw a blue hold-all bowling
along at high speed: heading east. So hang on to your baggage and
hats - and don't use round luggage! They even favour dry-stone walls
hereabouts so that the wind blows right through the walls. (I'm talking
about field walls, here, not houses, or hotels, you'll be
pleased to note.) The stone in Malta is beautifully mellow, and it
is used for all the buildings and, because of its plentiful supply
and the need for something strong to divide fields, it is seen everywhere
in the country for walling as well. This stone gives the place a biblical
touch that's quite evocative; it's also highly appropriate, give then
religious fervour hereabouts. I often saw a bus driver making the
sign of the cross.

And he was not always alone.

Which reminds me of the tale of the Maltese priest and Maltese bus
driver who both died and found themselves outside the Pearly Gates
together. The gates opened and the bus drive was invited in at once.
The priest made to follow but was told to wait. Indignantly he demanded
to know why a bus driver should enter Heaven before him. The angel
explained. "Every time you preached, the congregation went to
sleep, but all the while the bus driver worked, the passengers were
praying and making the sign of the cross. Now do you understand?"
The gates closed and the angel had achieved something very difficult
to achieve: he made a Maltese cross!

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