Description

As you might have guessed, Midway Rock is located about halfway up to the Sugarloaf proper. By the time the trail makes a sharp right before getting steeper, you will have already noticed the distinctive gaping maw of a crack called Self Abuse directly in front of you on the South face of Midway.

There are a handful or more face climbs on the rock to the left of Self Abuse, and to the right several lieback and jamming cracks, as well as a sport route or three.

Getting There

Follow the trail from the power plant as approaching Sugarloaf. About halfway up, you cannot miss this overgrown boulder with a wide crack in the center. Allow 10-15 minutes to approach.