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When asked to imagine a typical Italian restaurant, many people resort to images of stucco and brick walls, low lights with candles in empty Chianti bottles, red-white-and-green table covers and mustachioed waiters. It's time to think again.

Limoncello, a relatively new restaurant on Phuket's East Coast, prefers open spaces to cramped quarters, clear lighting to semi darkness and friendly polite service to brooding and moody wait staff. It's not that Limoncello is not Italian in feel, taste and atmosphere; it's just that this restaurant does things differently.

Décor

Open plan, breezy and eminently attractive, Limoncello goes for pastel colours and brilliant white tablecloths, white seating with yellow cushions and napkins, lots of arches and a wine tasting room as well as a separate function room.

The kitchen is open plan after a style, with a large window allowing diners to observe the chefs in action. Overhead fans waft cooling breezes while dining al fresco is certainly an inviting prospect as beautiful pleasure boats and yachts are moored adjacent to the restaurant. To sum up: the whole restaurant is light and pleasing to the eye.

Atmosphere

This is not a rip-roaring table-to-table trattoria; rather a 150-cover discreet eatery leaning more towards über-chic than bohemian.

In fact, you can choose your atmosphere at Limoncello – in the main dining room discreet music seeps out of the sound system, in the air-conditioned private room cushions and comfortable seating abound while the wine tasting room offers a totally other-world ambiance. Having said that, the visual feast of moored yachts and a colourful fountain makes dining outside in the night air an extremely sensual experience.

It should be noted that the Royal Phuket Marina is a substantially upmarket residential area and Limoncello has many regular diners living nearby.

Wine

The all-Italian 200-label wine list is far ranging and organised region by region throughout Italy. The house red, a Carraria from Umbria, is personable with a good nose as well as good 'legs'.

At the same time the house white, a down-home wine made by using Malvasia grapes, is light and full of flavour. Prices range around 1,500 baht to 20,000 baht so there's certainly a wine for most diners.

Try the signature Limoncello mini cocktail, it's delicious.

Food

The fare here is genuine Italian, using top-quality ingredients in an innovative manner.

Later, the grilled sea bass on a bed of zucchini strips is more classical cooking but no less yielding and tasty for it. Limoncello certainly delivers in taste and appearance and, make no mistake – you pay for what you get here, so if you are willing to stump up for higher-end food, surroundings and delivery Limoncello is going to be one of the top choices in Phuket.

Service

The wait staff is well turned out and reasonably knowledgeable; one never has to wait long for an order.

Adequately staffed, Limoncello's service reflects the quality of the eatery's food.