NAOE Restaurant Review

: Diners definitely have to work for their supper, if they want it to be at Japanese/sushi chef Kevin Cory’s diminutive NAOE. Along with the fact that the place has no sign, there’s the complication of getting a reservation, which is required, since Cory’s strictly omakase (chef’s choice) meals, roughly 20 constantly changing courses, are pretty much a one-man show and the seats are hot tickets. Additionally, he serves only 16 people per night (at two seatings, 6 p.m. and 9:30 p.m.). Meals begin with varying complex takes on miso soup (like one with local corn, leek, daikon radish, and slightly minty kinome leaf) and a four-compartment bento box containing at least ten different preparations, perhaps custardy steamed cobia with shimeji mushroom and grated yamaimo; dramatically different delicately firm petals of raw cobia, with fish roe and fresh wasabi; an exotic bamboo juice-treated rice with refreshing daikon pickle; an array of greaseless fried items, from poppy seed-coated tiny fish to sweet potato-like tropical canistel fruit, with sweet corn; almost meltingly tender slow-simmered pork jowl with parsnip mustard (a preparation that takes roughly 50 hours); and much more. There are also several cooked items like succulent broiled baby kasugodai with trumpet mushrooms, cucumber flower and organic lemon. To finish, the three desserts are highlighted by honey sponge cake with house-made soy sauce ice cream. Sakés, from a boutique brewery owned by Cory’s family, are the featured beverage. It’s a $200 prix-fixe meal, but a bargain considering it’s a cultural and culinary revelation you’ll be thinking about for years. If shabu shabu dining is what you seek, reserve at N by NAOE, a room at the restaurant where patrons gather at a communal table ($60 plus service charge and sales tax).