The Detroit Tuned Turbo Oil Feed Line Kit will fit both the N14 or N18 Prince Engine installed in all Cooper S's (R55, R56, R57, R58, R59, R60), in any year. This will solve the problem of the o-ring failure due to turbo heat.

We will cover the actual install of the line here in the directions. Some parts of the installation are left out due to time and space. It recommended to have a Bentley service manual on hand to reference as needed. This job will take about 4 to 5 hours depending on skill level.

READ ALL DIRECTIONS THROUGHLY BEFORE YOU START!!!

NOTE: WHENEVER WORKING IN THE ENGINE BAY, YOU SHOULD WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND THE ENGINE SHOULD BE COOL. IF AFTER READING THESE DIRECTIONS, YOU FEEL THIS IS WORK YOU CANNOT COMPLETE, YOU SHOULD CONSULT A TRAINED MECHANIC.

Tools Needed:

*11mm Wrench *3/8” ratchet w/ 8” extension

*10mm & 18mm 3/8” socket *1/4” ratchet w/ extension

*8mm & 10mm 1/4” socket *Long Pry Bar

*Flat-head screwdrivers *Magnetic stick

*Torque Wrench * Flash Light

*Other Basic Tools

Directions:

1. Place the car where you are going to be doing the work, and put it up on ramps or jack stands, if you do not have a lift. You will need to get to both the top and the bottom of the motor during the install. Once the car is in place, open the hood and disconnect the battery. During removal of the lower heat shield, it can and will contact a hot terminal on the alternator. YOU MUST DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. With the car up in the air and the battery disconnected, open the hood, point a fan at the car to cool the engine quickly. Let it sit until the car is completely cool. Not only are you working with a hot exhaust system, but also a very hot turbo and even hotter oil. Chances of burning your self are very high, so please let the engine cool down before starting this repair.

2. Here is where a service manual can come in handy. You will now need to remove both of the upper and lower oxygen sensors, both upper and lower heat shields, the entire down pipe, the turbo support bracket, and the heat shield behind the down pipe. You will now be able to see both of the banjo fitting for the turbo oil feed line.

Upper:

Lower:

3. Remove both of the banjo bolts. Make sure you have a small pan to catch any of the oil that may drain out. Since the car has been sitting for an hour or more it should have drained back into the oil pan and be almost empty. Take care in the removal of the bolts, as these parts will be reused. You may end up dropping the washers, but this is o.k. as we have supplied you new crush washers in the kit. It is always best to know where all of the parts are so you do not have any extra hardware floating around in the engine bay. Take note of how the current line is routed, as the new line will need to go the same way. Remove the line from the top. It will take some finesse to get it out. You may have to apply a bit of force, but should not have to bend or cut anything to get it out, you can if you like though. If you end up cutting the old line, remember to cover any items you do not want metal shaving's in.

4. Install the top fitting to the turbo. Make sure both the area and the bolt are clean and install a new crush washer on each side of the fitting. Also make sure that one of the old crush washers is not still on the bolt. Install it straight back and torque to proper setting.(REINSTALL ~ Torque to 22 ft. lbs. For both banjo bolts)

5. Take the line and fish it down thru the engine. Make sure the 90 deg. end is down (against the engine) as shown in the photos. Now loosely install the 15 deg end to the turbo banjo fitting.

6. Install the other banjo fitting loosely onto the 90 deg end and then install the banjo bolt and crush washers to the cleaned area.

7. Next, make sure the line is routed correctly. You can spin the lower fitting clock wise or counter clock wise to give you more or less slack in the line. Make sure it has as much room to all parts as it can and snug up the bolt to keep things in place while you look it over. Once you are happy with how the new line is routed, tighten the banjo bolt to it's torque spec and tighten both fitting ends with a wrench. This end is a compression fitting and needs to be tight. You do not have to have it super tight, but tight enough so that it will not leak or loosen up. This is the part of just being a mechanic that is very helpful. Make sure the lines look like the above photos.

8. Spray down the area well with brake cleaner to make sure any oil that was spilled is cleaned up, then reinstall all the parts removed in step 2 in reverse order with the proper torque specs.

9. Some motors (2011 plus) have a heat shield over the line to help combat the heat. You can reinstall it if you like or leave it off. What ever you think looks best to you. It will have no affect on your new line. If you would like a shield and your car doesn't come with one, you can get one from the Detroit Tuned web page.

If you have any questions, please call us. Detroit Tuned (586) 792-MINI or [email protected]