milford sound

On New Zealand’s fishing map there are a number of places that rank as must-do’s … White Island, Ranfurly Banks, and the Three Kings are three that spring to mind. These places are renowned for their trophy fish, but are probably better known for their price tags. Yes - you most definitely need a fat wallet if you want to experience those locations! So what if I were to tell you that there is a place where the average boatie could safely launch, experience unimaginable natural beauty, and realistically catch a mountain of trophy fish?“Tell ‘im he’s dreaming,” I hear you say; but yes, I am serious … so keep reading, my friend.​Milford Sound is that place and, despite what many think, it’s not out of reach of the average fisherman’s wallet. And I know what I’m talking about; I’ve been fortunate enough to have spent this last winter kayak guiding in Milford Sound, which is the gateway to Fiordland and less than half a day’s drive from Queenstown. My friends laughed at me when I said I was heading down here.“The sandflies grow bigger than fantails, mate!” they scoffed. But I wasn’t deterred. In an area renowned for its fishing, hunting, diving, and the occasional good-looking tramper, I soon realized that I’d found a utopia.I’ve had some extraordinary adventures during my time in Milford, both on and off the water. However this article isn’t an account of those adventures - rather it’s a guide to creating your own. So do yourself a favour: take some time off work, pack the Landy, and discover yourself a piece of angling paradise.

Getting there. From Te Anau, Milford is exactly 119 kilometres on SH94, and the first half of the drive is easy going as it passes through rolling farmland and wide-open river flats. The second half is a bit more rugged; it winds through the Southern Alps, underneath a mountain (using the Homer Tunnel), and finally down the Cleddau Valley into Milford. During winter, snow will be your biggest hazard, but in summer crazy tourists in their retarded camper vans are almost as bad. Allow yourself a good two hours if you plan on bringing the kayak, and three if you’re towing a boat.Things to know about Milford before you leave civilization.

Milford Sound is a very isolated spot and consequently it doesn’t have a lot of facilities - so it pays to come prepared! There are no shops, and even the local pub has recently closed down (this caused an uproar amongst locals!). You’ll need to bring adequate food and beverages for the duration of your stay.

Fuel can be a problem. The pump that’s there can be expensive or totally dry, so it pays to fill both your vehicle and your boat before you leave Te Anau. If you plan to stay for a few days you might need to bring extra tote tanks.

Road conditions on SH94 can be dodgy at any time of the year (snow closed it for two days this February!). In winter there’re often significant amounts of snow and ice, particularly around Homer Tunnel, so there may be restrictions on towing and a requirement to carry chains. I strongly suggest you check the NZTA website for road conditions and notifications before driving in.

There’s no cell phone reception in Milford – for any carrier.

Internet is both limited and expensive, but it can be bought from a number of businesses.

The best place to stay is the Milford Lodge. Give Emma a call and tell her I sent you.

Boating things to know about Milford.

The launching ramp is located at Deepwater Basin. This is a solid concrete ramp of reasonable construction. The only problem is it’s fractionally too short at low tide; you might have to drop your trailer over the edge to get it deep enough and this will necessitate a solid tug to get it back up. Ask a local if you’re having problems.

There’s no wharf to tie your boat up to once you’ve launched, so organize yourself before committing.

Deepwater Basin is a five-knot zone – if you put up a big wake in this area expect a pissed-off cray fisherman to introduce himself when you return.

The recreational radio channel is VHF 10.

Channel 21 is connected to a handy weather station (known locally as ‘Stevo’) and gives real-time wind conditions every five minutes.

The weather inside the fjord can be remarkably different from the Fiordland forecast because of its sheltered nature. You will also find that no swell gets inside the fjord, so even with a bad forecast you’ll be able to find a calm spot. The only real problem occurs during a strong westerly, which will funnel down the entire length.

If you have an auxiliary motor, bring it. There’s no Coastguard to tow you home, down there.

The northern side of the fjord is a marine reserve. Check a chart for the boundaries before you drop a bait.

Fish in Milford.Fishing in this part of the world can best be summed up in two words: blue cod. It seems that everyone in the South Island is obsessed with this fish, and rightly so, because they’re delicious. Trophy-sized specimens (up to 4kg) are caught every day in and around Milford, but there’s just one hitch … inside Milford Sound you aren’t allowed to keep them! Much like their cuzzies in the Marlborough Sounds, they’ve suffered from localized depletion so the powers-that-be have decided that if you want a cod, you must venture out into the open ocean. This isn’t really a problem for the average boatie; I regularly kayaked the 16km out there to catch a few.The next species on your hit list should be hapuka (grouper to you South Islanders). Here in Milford you can expect to catch a puka at almost any location inside the fjord. Deep water, abundant food, and a constant supply of fresh water (to wash off the sea lice), ensures that’s there’s a year-round population of these fish. The average size is 10 - 15kg (the locals call them ‘schoolies’) and up to 30kg is not uncommon. Use your sounder to search for big fish marks near drop-offs and in deeper water (100+ metres).The humble tarakihi should be next on your ‘desirable’ list. This species is found almost everywhere both inside and outside the fjord. It seems that many South Islanders don’t even rate them as a table fish, but I knows better – I’ll take a feed of ‘turkeys’ any day of the week. They’re most commonly taken as a by-catch when targeting blue cod, so I’ve caught them in water from 10 – 150 meters deep. And there’s is no need to alter your rigs to catch them; in Milford Sound they grow big enough to swallow a 4/0 hook!And as for the glamour species: in summer time the water gets warm enough to attract a variety of big fish that many South Islanders aren’t used to targeting. Kingfish and albacore tuna are common from February to April so it’s worth trolling a lure almost everywhere you go. And if you plan on going a bit wider, there’s a very good possibility of bluefin tuna and broadbill, too. You’ll want some serious gear for these beauties though, so go well-prepared.

Where to fish You can realistically expect to catch fish almost anywhere you drop a bait in Milford. I typically start next to the rock walls, marked pinnacles, or deep holes, and move around until I find the patches of desirable fish. To give you a heads-up, here are a few spots:

Western side of Sinbad Cove – great for tarakihi along the rock walls and only five minutes from the ramp.

The Sisters – three waterfalls on the southern side of the fjord. Hapuka are common in this area, due to the freshwater.

Northern side of Dale Point – blue cod and tarakihi found anywhere between 15 and 30 metres. If you’re getting spiny dogs then you’ve gone too deep and you’re on the sand.

Fox Point and Saint Anne’s Point – deep drop-offs that attract hapuka.

The 26 – a charted rock that rises up from 100 to 26 meters. Located straight out from the mouth of the fjord. Holds a variety of species. There are numerous other pinnacles in this area too; use your charts and sounder to locate them. Great for big blue cod,

Equipment and Tackle. The ledger rig rules the roost down these ways so you don’t need to be fancy - 4/0 circle hooks, 60lb trace and a 10oz sinker will cover you for most situations. If you want to target the bigger hapuka then the heavier, pre-tied rigs with 200lb trace will be more suitable. A range of heavy sinkers (up to 20oz) will also be handy as you’ll be fishing deep and there can be big currents. With all of your tackle, make sure you bring a good supply of spares because the toothy species can cause problems. As for rods and reels, I simply used my jigging gear for almost everything – an overhead reel spooled with 300 metres of 50lb braid will cover you for pretty much all situations. Other things that you might like to consider for your mission are a cray pot (or two or three), dive gear, game fishing tackle (for summer time pelagic species), and a rifle (for the elusive Fiordland moose haha).In Summary. Milford Sound and the entire coast of Fiordland are a very special place. Many people seem to regard it as a ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ spot to visit but I disagree. It’s actually very easy to get to and doesn’t require much planning for the average fisherman with a boat or kayak. I think it would make a great four-day weekend for the lads, and now that I’ve provided you with all the tips you’ll have no excuse for not making the effort!