I used Uncle Krunkus' soundlab V2.0 Stripboard to make a Soundlab+ version. I have not yet built it from this drawing So I do not know if it works yet. I am posting it here in case anyone wants to correct anything wrong or to build one.

A few notes on what happened here.

1. I had to increase the size slightly. it is now 160 mm x 100 mm
2. The circuitry around IC8 is new and had to be squeezed into the lower right corner.
3. The new Noise circuitry would not completely fit around the existing one so it is place below IC5.
4. I changed the component values, deleted the unnecessary old ones, and created new ones where they fit. Many are in the newer Lochmaster format.

Please feel free to modify it further if necessary. I only ask that you post any updates for all of us to use.

This was my first use of Lochmaster so I can't guarantee accuracy. Also there was not a lot of room for the necessary changes.

Good on ya jimh54!
I haven't re-installed Lochmaster yet, so I can't look at it, but I will soon.
Is it done in the newer Lochmaster version?
If so, I don't think I'll be able to open it anyway.
On that point, it would be good if you can do a .jpg of both sides and post those so people can still use it even if they don't have Lochmaster. Let me know if you don't know how to do that and I'll give you a hand.

I've been thinking of doing exactly this for a long time, (but I don't have time!) I'd like to update my original SoundLab to the Ultimate and make it a matrix patch version, a bit like an AKS without the joystick._________________What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there.

Uncle,
Yes, it's in Soundlab 3.0. Here are the .jpg versions.
I'm sure your version will be much better than mine. You have more experience and know where to move stuff around to give more room. I look forward to seeing it.

It looks great, but, like I thought, it's in 3.0, I can only open 2.0 files. The best thing is that you've posted the .jpg, so version problems don't matter. _________________What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there.

Hello, I am a newbie here and pretty much a rookie in diy electronics, too - just built a few effect stompboxes and a WSG. So maybe this is a naive question, but it is driving me mad: what do FT1 and FT2 stand for in the stripboards posted up here? What should I connect those pins to? Thanks a lot in advance.

Hi guys! I'm building this SoundLab 1.1 (from Uncle stripboard in Lochmaster file) and i found myself totaly lost with wiring the panel --- i need your HELP!
I was wiring pots and switches looking at Uncle stripboard (for example R48-1, R48-2) and also looking at Ray's original wiring panel scheme, where on pots there are rectangles with letters (PP, RR and so on...) and i thought i'm doing fine but then i've found for example pot R19 --- on striboard there's ONLY ONE referance R19-2, BUT on Rays layout i see 3 possible connections (PP, RR, QQ) and i don't know what to to??? Also the numeration --- for example R44 --- i see A, B and C connections but is R44-1 leftside tip or the rightside tip (in other words does R44-1 goes to A or C?)

Guys, i would really appreciate your help, because i've spent so many hours sordering this Devil and now i dont wanna let it down...

Each pot has three pins numbered 1, 2, and 3. So R19-2 means the middle pin (the easiest one to spot ). So R19-2 can only be RR. PP and QQ are positive and negative supplies respectively.

For R44, if you compare the wiring diagram with the PCB layout, the PCB layout actually identifies any locations that are not common things like supply or ground. So for A B & C, you can look and see that A is R44-1, B is R44-2, and C is ground. That should also help because all the pots will be numbered the same way; looking from the rear, as the wiring diagram shows, you have pin 1 on the left and pin 3 on the right.

I wanted to apologise for my tardyness in helping people build this stripboard (or the WSG for that matter). It's almost 7 years since this thread started, and the layout was done at least a year before that. My head just can't keep hold of all this stuff I used to know.
I do remember the idea of doing the Soundlab on a stripboard seemed crazy then. Probably still does to most.

So,.......
Attempt to build this stripboard Soundlab at your own peril!!
You will need a lot of stripboard experience.
You will need troubleshooting skills,
an eye for detail,
and patience. _________________What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there.

And I can't just go back to studying these older projects, when I've got so many other projects that need to be worked on right now!!!
Maybe I have an attention deficit or something! _________________What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there.

Thanx again for your help!
Haha, if i knew how many patience, soldering and madness this project would take i'd never start it at the first place...
Anyway, i can almost see a light in the end of the tunnel, however i dont know if i correctly wired all pots and switches, it's almost 2am and my table is fully covered with "spaghetti" and i think i'll try to finish this stuff in the morning..... and i have one final noob question: where do "positive" and "negative" wires from STRIPBOARD go to...? Positive and negative wires from the batteries go to Power switch --- OK, Ground goes to R27 and so on --- OK, but where should i connect (+) and (-) from stripboard? To R19 [PP] and [QQ]? http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/SOUNDLABMINISYNTH/images/soundlab2007panelwiringwlabels2.gif
Well anyway i'll try this in in the morning but it would be great to be sure...

So i have finished SoundLab and it's not working, i only can hear faint hiss sound.....
Maybe someone can help me work out what is wrong?
First of all, where should i connect (+) and (-) wires from the stripboard, i have tried connecting them to R19, and also to Main Power switch and nothing happens, only this hissing sound. Maybe there are some other critical parts i should check out? I'm totaly lost and confused

When testing make sure the main, VCA and VCF frequency pots are turned all the way up. Then turn up the mix knob for each oscillator in turn.

I am out of town, and have not started on making this stripboard, so I can't give you a lot of guidance for that sort of thing; I would assume the + and - connections are the ones that go to the red and black wires to the panel, for the pots that get wired to +9V or -9V. But not having done it, and not having the time right now to go analyze it, I can't say for certain.

I do have the large enough stripboards now, and like I said, I plan to build this soon, but not yet....

The point marked + on the stripboard layout needs to be connected to the positive output from your main switch (that is, the point labelled +9v on the power supply section of the schematic on the MFOS site, and PP on the panel wiring diagram). Likewise, the point marked - is connected to the -9V connection on the switch, QQ on the panel wiring. And the point in between on the stripboard, labelled with a sideways T symbol is the connection for Ground 'C' on the panel wiring diagram - it is unlikely to work without that being connected. It sounds as if you may not have connected the Ground to the stripboard.

Now I've had time to finish the other soundlab I was working on, and looked through the SLMS+ schematics and things on Ray's site and these stripboards, I rescind my claim that I was going to do this stripboard (even the second version)

I want the capabilities of the Micro Sample & Hold, not the original (presumably) single chip TL084 based S&H. I'm going to be patching this out like I did for the other soundlab as well.

I'm not any good at all with creating stripboard circuits, so I am going to think about how I plan to do this. It's very likely I will just order the two PCB set from Ray and have done.

Ive made the soundlab+ stripboard version succesfully.
Sadly although the krunkus stuff is all correct, most of the mods to SL+ posted here had problems from missing the output of noise altogether, to no cuts under inverter opamp and a few more.
Id correct them all but dont have the file.

I do have one problem, but I have a hunch thats due to how Ive patched it and attenuated CV. The VCA doesnt go to silent, is that perhaps since Im using attenuators in front of the input resistors for VCA CV?
Worth mentioning its on +/- 12V as well (together with a 1 bus keyboard and a adsr circuit)

Remember that the more you load the power supply, the more the whole setup becomes susceptible to crosstalk. Make sure the supply can deliver at least 15-20% more current than you "need". Otherwise you'll get ripples in the supply (say from the VCOs) contaminating everything else, and vice versa._________________What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there.

Yeah, I use a doepfer supply for their minicase in this so should be more than enough for only those three modules (ADSR is yusynth, so 10ma only).

It seems to me that when using 12V both the filter and the amp is dependent on the AD generator for their basic levels ... ie the filter reaches zero only on a highish AD setting, and VCA does not at all, so Im thinking the resistors at the CV inputs might need tweaking?
Or the added 27K in SL+ from V- to CV input for VCF and VCA?
(I have AD out wired directly to 4 pots each having ground on pin one, AD on three and out on 2)
I noticed that with the VCOs as well when I had to small resistor on one of the CV inputs there, but with stock both have a good range.

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