By Eddie Sisneros, Posted July 3, 2007

are you sure it isnt the rev limiter?

By Michigan DS, Posted July 4, 2007

No......It very well could be that. I will ride it and keep that in mind. I had read about the rev limiter but that was 200 posts ago and I had totally forgotten about it. I think the only solution for that is a new box (that isn't on the market yet) isn't it?

Eddie, thanks again for your help.

Doug

By Eddie Sisneros, Posted July 4, 2007

you really want to rev it farther?11,000 rpm isnt enough?

By biker t, Posted July 4, 2007

QUICKEST WAY TO PICK UP A VALVE PROBLEM. hENCE THE REV LIMITER

By jobfnl, Posted July 4, 2007

Doug,

Did you try the blue in the fourth and 170 main as in the instructions?

Just curious as I am going to to be installing the kit soon and only want to R&R

the carb once. The 170 does seem rich.

Jeff

By Michigan DS, Posted July 4, 2007

Jeff,

Below is an email correspondense with James Dean. He recommended the setup below. Later email suggested a 170 main with the FMF pipe.

Hope this helps.

Doug

Originally Posted by Michigan DS

JD,

I just received a jet kit from you (with the adj fuel screw) for my 2007 WR450. I have 3 questions.

Living in Michigan, <1000' MSL, 60-90F -

1) Red Needle or Blue and which clip position? According to the chart I should use a blue for my altitude, but a red for my temperature.

2) Which main - I believe the directions call for the 168.

3) With your kit, is it beneficial to disable ACV (open or closed) and/or the TPS?

Bike info-

2007 WR450F

AIS removal

Air Box binocular removal

grey wire disconnect

Stock pipe (for now) with insert removed

Thanks in advance for your help,

Doug

Doug,

Use the Red needle in clip position #5 from top for the warm conditions and low elevations. I would also use the stock pilot jet and #168 main jet with your other changes.

The ACV can remain enabled and will not make much difference, as it only richens the jetting on deceleration.

Thanks,

James

By jobfnl, Posted July 5, 2007

Doug,

Thanks for the info. Found on the jetting database at least 2 other guys

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This replaces the tube that connects the two carbs on a 1987 Honda XR600R (it may fit other years).
Made in the USA.
Constructed of TPU (solvent safe plastic.)
Its durable stiff abrasion resistant yet flexible enough you never have to worry about breaking it when you're taking apart your carbs.
Fits the o-ring perfectly and slips into the carb nice and tight.
Matches the rear shock coil.
If you would like to buy one contact me via e-mail. They cost $20 Shipping is free (anywhere in the USA). $10 off for active duty or retired military.
Cjmrizek@gmail.com
Make your subject: XR600r

This replaces the tube that connects the two carbs on a 1987 Honda XR600R (it may fit other years).
Made in the USA.
Constructed of TPU (solvent safe plastic.)
Its durable stiff abrasion resistant yet flexible enough you never have to worry about breaking it when you're taking apart your carbs.
Fits the o-ring perfectly and slips into the carb nice and tight.
Matches the rear shock coil.
length is Aprox. 34mm
If you would like to buy one contact me via e-mail. They cost $40 Shipping is free (anywhere in the USA). $10 off for active duty or retired military.
Cjmrizek@gmail.com
Make your subject: XR600r

This replaces the tube that connects the two carbs on a 1987 Honda XR600R (it may fit other years).
Made in the USA.
Constructed of TPU (solvent safe plastic.)
Its durable stiff abrasion resistant yet flexible enough you never have to worry about breaking it when you're taking apart your carbs.
Fits the o-ring perfectly and slips into the carb nice and tight.
Matches the rear shock coil.
If you would like to buy one contact me via e-mail. They cost $40 Shipping is free (anywhere in the USA). $10 off for active duty or retired military.
Cjmrizek@gmail.com
Make your subject: XR600r

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I bought a 2006 YZ250, have ridden it 5 times. It needs some tuning, but I am not sure I'm keeping it so don't want to spend much on it.
Has fmf gnarly expansion chamber and turbine core silencer.
I ride about 1000 feet above sea level.
I'm going to clean the carb and check the jetting. What is a good jetting for me? 85 main jet?
Also check the reeds. Is there a big difference between getting aftermarket reed cage and reeds or just getting a cheap aftermarket set of reeds that fit the stock cage ie. Boyesen Power Reeds?
The other things I'm going to do is permatex all the joints in the exhaust system and a compression test. It was 220psi 5 rides ago so I'm guessing itll be fine. Its bogging a bit but I'm thinking its carb and definitely exhaust joint related.
Let me know if I'm overlooking anything that could make the bike run crisper and more bottom end without throwing much money on parts