Sunday, February 27, 2011

Various Wuyi tea cultivars,Handpicked in December 2010,In the hills near Gan Kou in southern Taiwan.Process: Roasted Oolong

The most unusual characteristic of these dry leaves is their white greyish appearance. Add the fact that the leaves are rolled quite loosely and one could almost mistake it for an aged Oolong. Contrary to high mountain Oolong, the dry leaves feel quite light on the hand. Their scent is quite warm and sweet with hints of dark chocolate.

The yellow brown brew has a good clarity.

There are scents of dry wood, ripe fruit, chocolate and some sea weeds. This strange combination feels very natural. The roasting smell is present in the wet leafs.

The overall taste is sweet, but there are small hints of salty bitterness. The aftertaste then takes a more salty turn. It feels like after a swim in the sea. The mouth feels dry and salty, which creates a little itching and watering in the mouth. It's a very active and warm feeling. The tongue seems to generate a sweet saliva to fight the taste of salt. This energetic feeling lasts very long.

This warm, sweet and salty taste is unlike other Taiwanese Oolongs. It's not the mountains or the countryside that impregnates this tea. It's the sea!

The previous tasting notes are the result of several brews with a gaiwan. We obtain similar results with the modern zhuni Xishi teapot, but the taste doesn't feel as sharp and has more depth.

The open leaves show that farmer has mixed several different teas. The roasting level isn't even. Oxidation is rather strong. This is normal for a low altitude and warm climate tea. The leaves show sign of insects biting. The farmer told me that he mixes various tea cultivars in order to add some complexity and make the brew smoother.As you can see with my (sunset) Cha Xi, my setup, this tea that brought back very nice memories of the sea...

Thursday, February 24, 2011

An aesthetic interaction between tea and the above painting by Yan Dingsheng.Last Saturday, in Chiayi, at the Tai Yu Beaux Arts Salon.

The name of the painting by Mr Yan is the same as Zhao Mengfu's classic. The original masterpiece dates from the early Yuan dynasty. Zhao Mengfu painted the peaceful Jinan scenery for his friend Chou Mi, who was feeling homesick because his official post was far away from his native region. The painting therefore captures the essence of Jinan, its quiet beauty and 2 biggest mountains.

Zhao Mengfu's technical innovations in this work would have a profound effect on how landscapes would be painted after him. The mountains became smaller and the painters would use calligraphy-like strokes. It was an evolution rather than a revolution. Zhao Mengfu combined his new style with the old. This is a very Chinese, a very Confucian, respectful attitude toward tradition.

While Yan Ding Sheng's technique is modern, his subject connects us to the past and conveys similar feelings. Let's see what kind of Cha Xi I can perform as an echo to this painting!

First, I chose the tea: my 1990 Hung Shui Oolong from San Hsia. As Teaparker suggested, a well preserved old Oolong captures well the idea that there is still freshness in things (leaves, paintings, tea accessories) from the past. Also, this tea is not just a masterpiece in itself, but its taste unfolds layer by layer, brew after brew. And, last but not least, it brings the same kind of nostalgia for days gone by as Chou Mi felt about his parents' region.

The accessories I use are a combination of old and new, like Zhao Mengfu's technique. What is important is that they should add to the taste of the tea and fit the the theme of autumn colors. The first is achieved with :- a zhuni teapot. Its hard red clay handles temperature well and releases all the fine flavors of the leaves with minimum alteration while adding a lot of depth.- water heated in an old tetsubin on top of traditional, charcoal fired nilu,- an alternation of 5 modern 'ivory' porcelain cups (classic and flower). The ivory color of the cups adds a bright warm tone to the brew, while the small cups underline the finesse of the tea.- a Japanese pewter tea caddy to well preserve the freshness of my old tea.

The autumn colors are come to life with these accessories:- 2 long wooden benches are transformed into a tea table. The best fit for this long table is Japanese obi, kimono belt. The black and red lines and patterns of cherry flowers in various colors suggest the fleeting beauty of the fall season,- My Cha Tuo (saucers) are made of copper (with a silver rim) as is my za fang (for waste water).

The various flowers make the aesthetic connection to the beauty of nature, at a time of harvest.

The Earth and Fire vase is (a gift) from David Louveau. It's not completely black. There are variations of brown due to the wood kiln firing, as there are small colors variations in Yan's painting. And it's also a way to feel the presence of a friend I miss, like one misses his region.And down to the wardrobe, I mix a peaceful, traditional shirt with a pair of blue jeans!

Friday, February 18, 2011

The shape of these teapots is named after Xi Shi, the first of 4 famous Chinese beauties. She lived in the 5th century BC and was sent to a prince so that he would neglect his governing duties. Her seduction was a success and this prince would soon be overthrown.

Zisha clay20 cl. 141 grams

The lines of these classic Xishi teapots are therefore very round and feminine. The only part of the teapot that could symbolize masculinity (the spout) has been 'cut short'!The lid prolongs the shape of the body and alludes to the most maternal part of a woman's body...

Zisha clay11 cl. 94 gramsTea drinkers have to beware of the power of teapots! They charm us easily. It's important to understand how to appreciate their beauty. It's not just superficial. Xi Shi used her beauty to achieve regime change. Teapots are not just about aesthetics ; they have a profound impact on the tea brewed inside.Modern zhuni clay. This batch has not been mixed with previously fired and broken clay particles. This is why the surface is very even.15 cl. 131 grams

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

This new calligraphy adds a beautiful note of classic Chinese beauty to my tea corner. And, like a Cha Xi, it's not just the aesthetics that are great, but also the meaning.

Here my poor translation: Tea Passion is a state of hidden zen, this pleasant pastime brings guests. (If somebody can come up with a more poetic translation, I'd be glad to send him/her a tea sample. This proposal is also valid for a translation in french).

Tea can be viewed as spirituality in action. You learn to master yourself. You practice being careful, quiet, relaxed, at peace with the world. But, at the same time, this hobby isn't a solitary activity. Its practice draws people together. (Online and offline) bonds and friendships are created thanks to the same love of a good cup of tea.

Friday, February 11, 2011

A reader in Singapore asks me for advice on boiling water outdoors. First, especially if you live in this 'fine' city, make sure that it's not forbidden! In this respect, it's probably easier to get permission if you use a camping gas stove than if you plan on making a real fire.

As for the equipment to use, in an ideal situation, I would bring a Nilu and a tetsubin. I sometimes do so on short trips fully dedicated to tea tasting. However, this equipment is heavy and Nilus are made of fragile pottery. So, for practical reasons, I keep a gas stove and stainless in the trunk of my car. I'm always ready to take it out wherever I drive. For aesthetic reasons, I place the kettle and stove as far as the reach of my right hand away from my setup. My eyes don't see it and can focus on the beauty of the Cha Xi.

With a stainless kettle, you have to be careful not to over boil the water. It's best to use small to medium strength fire for a controlled boil. But beaches can be quite windy. Thus, place or protect the stove so that the wind won't blow out the flames.

Beaches are ... full of sand, says captain Obvious. I recommend to use a flexible bamboo mat or a Cha Bu to keep sand at a distance from your tea cup. (Sand can scratch the glazing of porcelain and add a salty taste in the cup). This will make the Cha Xi look quite neat.

Or, you could also take the opposite approach and build a sand castle for your Cha Xi! You might just unleash your creativity and connect to your childhood again!! (Note to self: let's try to remember this idea next time.) Just don't use your finest tea accessories then. Tea brewing should remain fun and relaxed. You don't want to be stressing about your equipment while making tea.

As for which tea to brew, I don't have very specific recommendations. But I do recommend that you choose high quality leaves from your collection: a special tea for a special occasion. And, outdoors, I also recommend to use more leaves or brew your tea stronger. In such an open environment it's more difficult to focus on details. It's more about the energizing effect of tea in the whole body.In winter, medium roasted Oolongs and raw wild puerh were the best match for me. Had the weather been warmer (in summer), I would have enjoyed the high mountain Oolong better or would have craved for some green tea. These teas have more cooling properties.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Brewing tea outdoors is wonderful! This Cha Xi at sunset on the beach is one of my favorite vacation memory. There's a relaxed feeling in the air as people gather to watch the sun disappear in the sea.

The 'wild' Concubine Oolong in my cup tastes somewhat close to the Gan Kou Oolong that is harvested some 10 km away from here! I'm surprised by this. But it makes sense: both are high oxidized and roasted Oolongs. And here, on the beach, I breathe the salty air from the sea. This adds a slight salty taste to the Concubine that is present naturally Gan Kou Oolong. Maybe the farmers should rename this tea the Mermaid Oolong to better capture the feminine call from the sea in these leaves! (And yes, the next day, I purchased some winter 2010 Gan Kou Oolong for my selection.)

The most heavy and difficult accessories to transport are the kettle, the burner and water. So, if I do, I think it's also worth it to bring a complete tea setup. It doesn't take much more space. For the tea vessel, I tend to choose a gaiwan so that I can brew all the teas in it. Also, I wouldn't mourn it the way I would an Yixing teapot should it break along the way. But I also like to add a local touch. Here, my children found some white corrals on the beach to decorate my blue Cha Bu. It's a nice marine fit with the white and blue qinghua porcelain.