*Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.

*Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.

*Neck Seal shall be destressed/worn.|

*Neck Seal shall be destressed/worn.|

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| }}

| }}

-

{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Shoulder Straps|

+

{{CRLtemplate|File:Deathtrooper_shoulder_straps.jpg|Shoulder Straps|

*These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.

*These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.

*No visible rivets are allowed.

*No visible rivets are allowed.

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}}

}}

-

{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Hand Plates|

+

{{CRLtemplate|File:Deathtrooper_handplates.jpg|Hand Plates|

*Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.

*Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

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}}

}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_gloves.jpeg|Gloves|

+

{{CRLtemplate|File:Deathtrooper_gloves.jpg|Gloves|

* Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.

* Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.

*Gloves shall be distressed/worn. If any skin is exposed it shall be covered with a zombie-like prosthetic skin.| |

*Gloves shall be distressed/worn. If any skin is exposed it shall be covered with a zombie-like prosthetic skin.| |

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*Some area of the Under Suit should have Worn/old looking mummy style bandages. | }}

*Some area of the Under Suit should have Worn/old looking mummy style bandages. | }}

-

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-ab.jpg|Abdomen Plate|

+

{{CRLtemplate|File:Deathtrooper_abplate.jpg|Abdomen Plate|

*The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter.

*The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-kidney.jpg|Kidney Plate|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-kidney.jpg|Kidney Plate|

-

*It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.

+

*A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

*Should be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint. |

*Should be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint. |

-

*A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.

+

*Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.| }}

-

*Shall be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|

+

-

*Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.}}

+

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-butt.jpg|Butt Plate|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-butt.jpg|Butt Plate|

-

*It is allowable to have a single butt/kidney plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of the belt and line up with the kidney plate, with a minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

-

*Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint. |

+

*Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

*A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.

*A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.

*Shall be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|

*Shall be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|

-

*Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.}}

+

*Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.| }}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-belt.jpg|Belt|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-belt.jpg|Belt|

*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).

*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).

-

*Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3”(75mm) to 3.5” (90mm) wide. The color is be white to off-white.

+

*The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white and shall have a distressed old look.

*The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.

*The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

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*Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|

*Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|

*Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

*Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

-

*Belt shall be canvas or canvas covered, and shall have a distressed old look. leather and vinyl are not acceptable.

*There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.

*There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.

*One drop box may be omitted from the costume (either left or right, but not both). If opting to remove one of the drop boxes, the white strap that the drop box normally hangs from shall be ripped/torn.|

*One drop box may be omitted from the costume (either left or right, but not both). If opting to remove one of the drop boxes, the white strap that the drop box normally hangs from shall be ripped/torn.|

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}}

}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Thermal Detonator|

+

{{CRLtemplate|File:Deathtrooper_detanator.jpg|Thermal Detonator|

*Attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2”(50mm) and 2.5" (64mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.

*Attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2”(50mm) and 2.5" (64mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

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}}

}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_boots.jpg|Boots|

+

{{CRLtemplate|File:Deathtrooper_boots.jpg|Boots|

*White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.

*White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

*Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_holster.jpeg|Holster|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_holster.jpeg|Holster|

-

*Holster may be omitted from this costume.

+

*Holster may be omitted from the costume. If a holster is worn, it will be made of black leather or leather-like material. Worn on the left side of belt and be attached from behind, with no loops covering the outside of the belt. The holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. The fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.|| }}

-

*Made of black leather or leather-like material.

+

-

*Holster shall be distressed/worn.|

+

-

*If using the holster shall be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.

+

-

*If using the holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws. | }}

+

{{CRLtemplate|File:Uc28616BVIII.gif|Mummy style bandages|

{{CRLtemplate|File:Uc28616BVIII.gif|Mummy style bandages|

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*Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun. |

*Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun. |

*A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.| }}

*A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.| }}

+

+

{{CRLfooter|FISD_CRL|T}}

Revision as of 08:40, 10 June 2013

Description: Death TrooperPrefix: TKDetachment:First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Context: Star Wars Expanded UniverseThe Death Troopers were introduced in a Star Wars Expanded Universe novel of the same name. The book follows the classic zombie outbreak story, but set on a Star Destroyer. The Death Troopers were later used in Star Wars Galaxies and represented by Gentle Giant as a bust.

Please note that this particular costume may not be welcome at all 501st events. This is not recommended as a primary Legion membership costume. Please contact your garrison CO/GML with any questions if you are planning to create one.

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, requirements for Level 2 "Expert Infantryman" are listed in blue. Requirements for Level 3 "Centurion" are listed in red.

Those armor pieces without blue and/ or red text are by default considered the highest level.

Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards.

Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.

The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

FX armor may not be used for Level 3 approval.

This CRL entry has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team. Costumes of this type must be submitted to the LMO team via the GML forum at 501st.com for approval.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below.

HelmetFor 501st approval:

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look. If any large areas are missing from the helmet and skin is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.

Should have stains to emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.

The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.

Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.

Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.

Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.

Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.

Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.

Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.

Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications.

Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.

Neck Seal shall be destressed/worn.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Neck Seal may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it shall be covered with zombie-like prosthetic/mask.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Shoulder StrapsFor 501st approval:

These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.

No visible rivets are allowed.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

One Shoulder Strap maybe omitted from this costume (either left or right but not both) If a Shoulder Strap is omitted, then it should be replaced/tied with *Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level three certification (if applicable):

These shall free float in back.

These shall be glued in front.

The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

Shoulder BellsFor 501st approval:

One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

May have some stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint

For level three certification (if applicable):

BicepsFor 501st approval:

Biceps are fully closed.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

One bicep may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).

May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level three certification (if applicable):

ForearmsFor 501st approval:

Forearms are fully closed.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Should have some stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level three certification (if applicable):

No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

Hand PlatesFor 501st approval:

Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

One Hand Plate may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).

May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Should have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.

Gloves shall be distressed/worn. If any skin is exposed it shall be covered with a zombie-like prosthetic skin.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

ChestFor 501st approval:

Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

Should have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

Chest plate may have one of the top corner/shoulder strap areas missing. If you are opting to damage/remove this area of the chest plate, then you should strap the remaining area with Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

Ideally the AM/FX style chest plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style chest plate, the bottom and sides shall be trimmed and a new return edge shall be added at the bottom to eliminate the over elongated appearance and to give a more accurate look. See the tutorial: http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tutorial-chestback

BackFor 501st approval:

Back plate contains a "O II" design.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

May have a few stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

Back plate may have one of the top corners/shoulder strap areas missing. If you are opting to damage/remove this area of the back plate, then you should strap the remaining area with Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

Ideally the AM/FX style back plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style back plate it shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. and shall be reshaped to emulate a screen used back plate by properly trimming and re-shaping (stretching) the left and right edges of the armor to contour to your body. Note: There is currently no tutorial available for this, but you can see an example of this Mod and visual comparison at whitearmor.net

Under SuitFor 501st approval:

Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.

Under Suit shall be distressed/worn.

For level two certification (if applicable):

The under suit may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.

Some area of the Under Suit should have Worn/old looking mummy style bandages.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Abdomen PlateFor 501st approval:

The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

Should have stains that emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.

Should be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed.

Shall be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

The ab plate may have large missing/broken off area/areas. If any large area is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.

Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets, the heads should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note:For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.

A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.

Kidney PlateFor 501st approval:

A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

Should be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Butt PlateFor 501st approval:

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.

Shall be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

For level three certification (if applicable):

BeltFor 501st approval:

Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).

The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white and shall have a distressed old look.

The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.

One drop box may be omitted from the costume (either left or right, but not both). If opting to remove one of the drop boxes, the white strap that the drop box normally hangs from shall be ripped/torn.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Drop boxes are closed in the back.

The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.

Thermal DetonatorFor 501st approval:

Attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2”(50mm) and 2.5" (64mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level three certification (if applicable):

The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1" (25mm) wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint.

ThighsFor 501st approval:

Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.

The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Should have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level three certification (if applicable):

The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.

The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

Lower LegsFor 501st approval:

Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.

The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Should have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level three certification (if applicable):

There should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.

BootsFor 501st approval:

White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.

Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.

May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Should have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.

Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

For level three certification (if applicable):

There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).

Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below.

HolsterFor 501st approval:

Holster may be omitted from the costume. If a holster is worn, it will be made of black leather or leather-like material. Worn on the left side of belt and be attached from behind, with no loops covering the outside of the belt. The holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. The fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Mummy style bandagesFor 501st approval:

It is optional to have some Worn/old looking (mummy style) bandages. The mummy style bandages may be wrapped loosely around some areas of the costume, but not over 30%.

If using the popular commercially available Stormtrooper blasters, you shall grind off the T-tracks and replace them with U shaped channels and cover the open rows of holes (total of 7 U shaped channels in all).

Correct greeblies on the left rear area shall be present (door catch and two "hammers").

For level three certification (if applicable):

Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

Forward D-ring shall be mounted underneath the front sight on the left side of the barrel.

Use of the correct front sight (which differs from ANH and ESB).

The scope rail is unique to ROTJ E11 and is not like the normal open ANH/ESB scope rails, but is a solid, one piece, with a unique sight design on the front. The scope connects to the notched out area of the solid rail. The scope shall be the correct design (as the ones seen in ROTJ), and shall attach to the scope rail via one scope mount.

The muzzle will be unlike the normal ANH style. It shall be flat with two counter sunk Allen bolts (one located at the four o’clock position and one located at the ten ‘o’clock position).

The door catch shall be correct, not a "close enough" attempt as seen on the Cinemastery blaster.

BlasTech DLT-19 Heavy Blaster RifleFor 501st approval:

Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.

For level two certification (if applicable):

A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.

For level three certification (if applicable):

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