Unless your hauling 3 Harley's then you don't need breaks. They will lock up too easy. If you do it, a good controller should be considered.

Not 3 harleys, but 4 heavy dirt bikes(my XRL and few other odds and ends bikes) to Death Valley and local deserts

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkm

I learned that a little of the e-trac goes a looong way. I actually put too many sections of it on my trailer and never use some of it. I'm going to take the extra back off because it's difficult to set gas cans, etc on top of it.

Good luck. Sometimes it's hard to stop farkling a trailer......jkm

Ya, I can totally see how this is a good idea, so that is why im opting e-track. As for gas cans... Well.. I think imma just have to strap them down also, and let it be....
Farkling is a tough thing to give up on ANYTHING I have.. Bike, car, van.... Trailer..?? I am so screwed... lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by troidus

Do you mean side markers, or turn signals? U.S. vehicles aren't equipped with separate brake and turn signal circuits for trailers. For my tow vehicle, I got a European 13-pin harness. (Some day I'll actually install it.)

My bad, I ment maybe adding more turn signals, but I am not totally sure what I am do, but I know it will be done
Yea after reading the wiring diagram the lights would not be interdependent from the breaks, but with the 7 pin I would have reverse lights.... For what its worth.. And would control the breaks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiwi_outdoors

maybe not with bikes - but if you ever start hauling other stuff, such as wet garden refuse, it gets heavy quickly, and you can find yourself towing too much mass.

and stay in the allotted lanes for towing, it will stop your speed from getting too excessive

Wood for the winter...... Not always is it dry. I have a buddy, I stash a ton of wood at his place in a little corner of is back yard, and load up my van with about 5-700 lbs, alone... Im not sure if I can handle a trailer full, without the breaks...

All in all, I think I am going to do a new axle with e-brakes, because I have no clue what weights I can and can't hold on to with just my van, so a little extra elbow grease, a lot of extra homework, and a case of beer with buddies around. Will make the job that much easier... In no way is replacing my van to keep the trailer, an option for me. And the trailer will take care of me once I have her dialed in and fixed up for my needs.

Still, I will take as much input as I can get, but I know what I have to do.. Homework.
Thanks again guys,
~Junior

Upgrading the trailer is going to be way easier no matter how you look at it.

If you go with larger discs or drums on your van then you most likely will need larger wheels to clear the brakes and possibly a larger master cylinder to deal with the larger brake components. Pricey

For the trailer if you swap a larger used axle entirely from a used trailer off craigslist or go to your local trailer place and get components or even a new axle.

I plan on doing this with mine, I have a 8X12 that I pull with my 3500 silverado. I dont think i could load teh trailer up with enough weight to mess with teh truck without the trailer wheels popping But I would want the ability to put 1 bike on the trailer and tow it with my wifes Equinox in an emergency. So I plan to swap teh axle or get brakes in teh spring.

Upgrading the trailer is going to be way easier no matter how you look at it.

For the trailer if you swap a larger used axle entirely from a used trailer off craigslist or go to your local trailer place and get components or even a new axle.

But I would want the ability to put 1 bike on the trailer and tow it with my wifes Equinox in an emergency. So I plan to swap teh axle or get brakes in teh spring.

Yea, I know the van can pull, its just the stop I would be happier with the extra help. Also have been looking into a new complete axle with the breaks. Found a source in WI for $250 plus ship.....More dollar signs there... Still need to do proper measurements on the current axle and springs, to know what I need to fit. A small weekend task

Scoped it out, but just came to the realization that I would require a new axle to to add breaks. They didn't offer complete axle's.

OK, because I am looking for a new axle, the one I found is a 5200#, should I consider a heavier duty axle? My thought is if the spring AND axle are to stiff, the trailer would bounce all over the road while towing whether its empty or lightly loaded with just my buggy alone or 2(3?) bikes. Maybe go all out on an axle, and take it easy on spring rate?? So go for a 6000 or 7000 axle but get a 4500 or 5200 spring? Thoughts, please?

Thanks again dudes, still much to learn in life to learn alone,
~Junior

No joke, I spent close to 4 hours, in a parking lot, just trying to understand how to park this thing.

Thanks guys for reading,
~Junior

Backing a trailer.

go slow, crawl if needed.

once it jacks, stop and do a small pull up, a few feet not two car lengths to correct the angle.

watch the front car fenders that they don't wack something while your busy eyeballing the trailer.

Here's the big secret, when backing up a trailer place one hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and keep it there.
move hand left trailer tracks to the left.
move hand right trailer tracks to the right.
use small inputs not big swinging handfuls.

This is a good unit and will cost less and work as well in my opinion.. lol'

If you have the flanges, and you probably do, you won't need a new axle.

I really like this much better than drum e brakes.

The first thing you may want to do, is weigh the trailer and then weigh the hitch. This will tell you exactly what you have. and as you add weight( bikes, gas, ect. you will have a better idea of where to put it and keep the tongue weight at 10% of total trailer and gear weight. When you first weigh the hitch it should be 10% of empty trailer.

I don't have E track on mine and use chain links welded to the frame for my tie downs. Then I marked where I wanted the rear tie downs and mounted thru the deck with steel backing plate.
Take your bike, and move it to where you want it(center of trailer and forward). Then move it to where you would place the next bike and mark for each tie down.
You may want to do this differently. Whatever works for you.

Put your lights where they won't get knocked off and use a good bracket.

once it jacks, stop and do a small pull up, a few feet not two car lengths to correct the angle.

watch the front car fenders that they don't wack something while your busy eyeballing the trailer.

Here's the big secret, when backing up a trailer place one hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and keep it there.
move hand left trailer tracks to the left.
move hand right trailer tracks to the right.
use small inputs not big swinging handfuls.

Yea at first, my issue was the big handfuls. Didn't care how slow I was going. I do notice that I am super focused on the trailer not the fender, thanks for that one! And thanks for the super secret wheel positioning, I think im going to hit up the stadium again

This is a good unit and will cost less and work as well in my opinion.. lol'

If you have the flanges, and you probably do, you won't need a new axle.

I really like this much better than drum e brakes.

The first thing you may want to do, is weigh the trailer and then weigh the hitch. This will tell you exactly what you have. and as you add weight( bikes, gas, ect. you will have a better idea of where to put it and keep the tongue weight at 10% of total trailer and gear weight. When you first weigh the hitch it should be 10% of empty trailer.

I don't have E track on mine and use chain links welded to the frame for my tie downs. Then I marked where I wanted the rear tie downs and mounted thru the deck with steel backing plate.
Take your bike, and move it to where you want it(center of trailer and forward). Then move it to where you would place the next bike and mark for each tie down.
You may want to do this differently. Whatever works for you.

Put your lights where they won't get knocked off and use a good bracket.

Have fun..

Sadly, 100% sure, no brake plates

As for the weighing bit.....hhhmmmm might have to get cleaver to figure that on out. The only place I know of that has something like that is the dump, or the border check points.. But it makes sense as to keep the tongue weight right where you want it...

As for the e-track, I think I am going to special order some 8' tracks. All I have locally is 5' tracks and those will/are leaving gaps. Not that I mind to much, but for aesthetics I would recommend to someone/anyone start with some 8' tracks.

Yea at first, my issue was the big handfuls. Didn't care how slow I was going. I do notice that I am super focused on the trailer not the fender, thanks for that one! And thanks for the super secret wheel positioning, I think im going to hit up the stadium again

Sadly, 100% sure, no brake plates

As for the weighing bit.....hhhmmmm might have to get cleaver to figure that on out. The only place I know of that has something like that is the dump, or the border check points.. But it makes sense as to keep the tongue weight right where you want it...

As for the e-track, I think I am going to special order some 8' tracks. All I have locally is 5' tracks and those will/are leaving gaps. Not that I mind to much, but for aesthetics I would recommend to someone/anyone start with some 8' tracks.

Thanks for the insight guys,
~Junior

You could find a scale at a large farm fertilizer store, stone quarry or place that sells large amounts. Truck stop... The girls there will usually let you disconnect so you can get the trailer weight, as long as there are no big rigs in line. Be creative. Now to weigh the tongue, use a bathroom scale. I use whatever is handy. A 2x4 laid across the scale and one under the ball. Most scales will go to 300#

I would still go with the disk brake option, even if you have to buy a new axle..

You were talking about moving the axle. If you do, you will need to make sure you don't mess up the tongue weight.
Most will be 60/40. 60% from the front of the bed and 40% from the rear of the bed. This can change for special purpose trailers.
Sorry for talking so much..

If you want brakes on the trailer, get a trailer with brakes. For a two-place open like that, I honestly wouldn't worry about it.

Modify your driving - The "O/D Off" button gets a -lot- of work on my truck when i'm pulling. There's also a "2" and "1" gear besides the usual "D" ... use those when going downhills or you will smoke your tow vehicle's brakes.

The 4-pin connector is for lights and lights only. Brake, LT, RT. There's a few varieties of other connectors mostly seen on horse trailers, I'd avoid these and skip right to a 7-pin RV connector. That adds a 12V aux line, ground, reverse, and electric brakes. I replaced the connector on my truck with a dual-connector dealie, has the 7-pin RV and the 4-pin next to it. Between those two, I can hook up just about anything to the truck.

And if you do go with brakes on the trailer, spend the money for a decent controller. Tekonsha's the only ones worth getting, I have a Primus in my truck I got on sale and it works well. Other benefit to a better controller is some built-in diagnostics - Mine tells me that the trailer's not only connected, but that the brakes are indeed working and not shorted out. The digital readout's nice so you can go back to a point you liked rather than just guessing.

For the trailer you're looking at, you'll be fine. I wouldn't want to put more than my loaded trailer behind my truck, but it gets the job done.

You could find a scale at a large farm fertilizer store, stone quarry or place that sells large amounts. Truck stop...

I would still go with the disk brake option, even if you have to buy a new axle..

You were talking about moving the axle...

Sorry for talking so much..

No. PLEASE talk some more! Not thinking of moving the axle, just a full replacement.

As for disk brakes, I've heard that drum is better for weighted stuff(trailers, trucks, etc..) and disk is more for commuter and small car's... What I heard

Never would have thought of stone quarry....

Quote:

Originally Posted by SnowMule

If you want brakes on the trailer, get a trailer with brakes. For a two-place open like that, I honestly wouldn't worry about it.

Modify your driving - The "O/D Off" button gets a -lot- of work on my truck when i'm pulling. There's also a "2" and "1" gear besides the usual "D" ... use those when going downhills or you will smoke your tow vehicle's brakes.

The 4-pin connector is for lights and lights only. Brake, LT, RT. There's a few varieties of other connectors mostly seen on horse trailers, I'd avoid these and skip right to a 7-pin RV connector. That adds a 12V aux line, ground, reverse, and electric brakes. I replaced the connector on my truck with a dual-connector dealie, has the 7-pin RV and the 4-pin next to it. Between those two, I can hook up just about anything to the truck.

And if you do go with brakes on the trailer, spend the money for a decent controller. Tekonsha's the only ones worth getting, I have a Primus in my truck I got on sale and it works well. Other benefit to a better controller is some built-in diagnostics - Mine tells me that the trailer's not only connected, but that the brakes are indeed working and not shorted out. The digital readout's nice so you can go back to a point you liked rather than just guessing.

For the trailer you're looking at, you'll be fine. I wouldn't want to put more than my loaded trailer behind my truck, but it gets the job done.

Already got the trailer, so buying one with is out of the question. My Uncle said I should worry about it either, but being a new 'Tower'(is that even right??) I scares the hell out of me. Totally knew it would happen, evenone said it would, and I listened.. Just doing it is different...

When down a hill in "2" already. Also was told that one, still makes a huge difference.

Planning on doing the 7-pin just because of the aux line and the break line built in. Dont care about the signals as much..

Thanks for the heads up on the Tekonsh. Been looking at Napa but they have some other brand that I didn't reconize

The thing with me, is that when I load up... I REALLY load up also. I carry about 500#s of wood, 100#'s of food/drink, 400# bike, and gas & gear worth about another 100... ON A VAN! I feel good when I make to where ever im going because of all those numbers, and the swaying with all that weight, makes feel like I got my "Man Pants" on when I am done driving. So adding an extra 1500# trailer is why I am a little sketchy... Mainly cause I dont know how well or how bad it will go, and I dont want to find out the hard way. "Hope for the best, Plan for the worst" kinda motto is where I sit on the subject...

Again. THANK YOU! THANK YOU!! THANK YOU!!! Keep it going, take all I can get,
~Junior