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I'd check Shun's warranty policy, perhaps you can get a new knife or keep grinding away as Melampus (looks like another 2mm or so). The Shun looks like my mother-in-law's Dexter Russell cleaver (she goes through a lot of chicken bone).

I eventually ground out all the damage on that Shun, with a King 1000! Took forever and pretty much turned it into a tall petty. Only unfortunately part is the balance point of the blade has moved behind the metal bolsters, so the knife feels slightly floaty when cutting. But against everyone's advice got her a NICE Tanaka R2 Santoku She knows now for any hard/frozen stuff we have the el' cheapo Martin Yan cleaver to smash through it.

I eventually ground out all the damage on that Shun, with a King 1000! Took forever and pretty much turned it into a tall petty. Only unfortunately part is the balance point of the blade has moved behind the metal bolsters, so the knife feels slightly floaty when cutting. But against everyone's advice got her a NICE Tanaka R2 Santoku She knows now for any hard/frozen stuff we have the el' cheapo Martin Yan cleaver to smash through it.

I eventually ground out all the damage on that Shun, with a King 1000! Took forever and pretty much turned it into a tall petty. Only unfortunately part is the balance point of the blade has moved behind the metal bolsters, so the knife feels slightly floaty when cutting. But against everyone's advice got her a NICE Tanaka R2 Santoku She knows now for any hard/frozen stuff we have the el' cheapo Martin Yan cleaver to smash through it.

>> Thank you, Tiger... <<

I don't want anyone to feel like this has been , but...

Originally Posted by Pensacola Tiger

Nice work, but shouldn't you have moved the shinogi line up to preserve geometry?

Rick

I realize it's only one comparison photo, but if you study it, you can see I only cut off the slightest of angle at the last few mm's of tip. I didn't tap out & just grind it off to save labor, I employed a flat grind on the entire blade road - effectively raising the shinogi from heel to tip. By studying the cladding line, you can see the consistency is carried throughout... clad line to edge - heel to tip. I took off a lot of steel. So much, my Atoma 140 actually feels different after all the removal. Of note, the Urasuki is extremely pronounced on the Suisin. Going in, I was particularly concerned about retaining proper geometry considering how much height I had to grind off the knife, but I'm relatively pleased with how little I took off the back... it feels proportionate. It feels pretty much in line to where a knife would be after having I'd guess the equivalent of 7 years of professional use ground off it. Man, did I have to take off a lot of steel.

If you look at the Shinogi at the heel on the "after", you can see indications of the rise...

that looked like melted tinfoil, jesus, haven't even seen interns do that kind of damage. don't give up on the shun, you removed the weak part of the steel. a lot of knives wear two layers of socks, you gotta take off the first set before it gets comfortable.

As for forgiving steel, and a knife that cuts pretty well, I'd say your best options are Henckels, when on sale, or a Sabatier stainless. We have a Henckels at work that I will use, occasionally. To be honest, it's better than most knives anyone else uses. They're kind of ridiculed on the forums, because of cost and the fact that they are only ok, will being "the best", according to the Martha Stewarts of the world. With that being said, they're tough, thicker, and durable. You could do a lot worse.