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Instructions

Congratulations on your purchase of one of the best sights to take your archery career to the next level. With just a little bit of care, this sight should last you for years to come. Here are the basic instructions for assembling the sight.

When you receive your sight from either your dealer or through a delivery service, your sight will come packaged in a clamshell with three parts and a screw pack. The first step to assembly is to remove the bowplate off the extension bar and mount it to the riser of your bow using the enclosed Flat head screws. Next, you will attach the vertical base onto the extension bar using the two enclosed Socket head cap screws and washers.

If you are going to be using a scope with this product continue on with this paragraph. If not skip to the next paragraph. The third step will be to unscrew the knob on the back of the windage unit (with the numbers on it) until it is removed from the threaded pin. When the knob is off, you can remove the front brass part (where the pin is threaded into). You then loosen the small set screw that is in the brass piece. We recommend that you just loosen this screw and not remove it all the way. It is a small set screw that will invariably become lost when you need it the most. Next you will screw your scope rod into the brass part until your scope housing is butted against the brass. This is when you will snug the set screw down again to help prevent a rotating scope. Now you will reinsert the brass piece, with the scope on it, into the silver windage tube.

Loosen the cap screw that is on the top (front) of the sight. You should only have to loosen this screw about 4 or 5 revolutions. Next you will insert the silver windage tube through the 1/2â€ hole in the sight block. When you have the tube in place, re-attach the numbered knob on to the 10/32 threaded rod. You will then need to snug the cap screw on the top (front) of the sight to make sure that the windage unit can not be moved left or right.

Now you insert the extension bar back into the bow plate and figure out how far you want to extend the vertical base from your bow. There are milled round holes in the top of the extension bar so that when you tighten the bar down, the nylon tip on the end of the knob will fit into that hole and give you the extra security of knowing that the bar will not move.

Next you need to get a rough idea of where your scope or the end of your pin needs to be for shooting. The best way to do this is to knock and arrow and let it rest on the arrow rest. By looking at the bow from behind (like you would be getting ready to draw) you will be able to see if you need to move the windage unit left or right. To move your windage unit, you will loosen the cap screw on the top (front) of the sight block like you did when inserting the unit into the sight block. This is also the opportunity to place your scope (if applicable) at the angle that you desire. We recommend that the scope be swiveled so that the top of the housing is tilted roughly 2 or 3 degrees away from the archer. When you have your scope positioned where you want and the pin is inline (or at least real close) with your arrow, then you tighten the cap screw on the top (front) of the sight back down. You do not need to over tighten this screw. It just needs to be snug enough so that you can not move the windage unit left or right with your hands.

If you are using a scope, you will next need to level your sight. There are a couple of different ways to accomplish this. The first one is to go to an Archery Pro shop and let the Pro level up your sight. If you are the do it yourself type, you can either purchase a leveling tool that you will place on the table and then mount your sight to this tool and level your sight, or you can choose the least expensive route and purchase the Toxonics hand held leveling tool (SC-108). To use the leveling tool, you will need to remove your sight from the bow by loosening the knob and sliding the extension bar out of the bowplate. Next you will place the SC-108 flat against the side of the vertical base that is opposite of the scope. If the bubble in the scope is in the middle and the bubble in the leveling tool is in the middle, you are good to go and no adjustments need to be made. If the scope is not level, then you will need to move the sight head one way or the other to level your sight. To do this, you will need to loosen the cap screw that attaches the vertical base to the extension bar. You can loosen either the top or the bottom. After the screw is loosened, then you can move the vertical base in the direction that you need to go. When both bubbles are in the middle (on the scope and the leveling tool) you can tighten the screw back down.

When sighting in, it is recommended that you start at approximately 7 yards. This recommended because the settings are actually very close to the same as if you were at 20 yards and there is less of a risk of losing an arrow. We recommend that you use a target with the x in the middle and aim at the x so you have a starting point. Shoot your first arrow into the target. While sighting in, it is best to make small adjustments and the shoot another arrow. To make adjustments for left and right, you will just turn the knob on the back of the windage unit. Remember to always follow the arrow. (I.e. if you miss left, move your windage left and vice versa.) Continue this process until your arrow is in line with the x in the middle of the target. When this happens, it is now time to adjust for your vertical. The same concept applies, Follow your arrow. To move the sight lock up and down, you will loosen the knob on the front of the sight and micro adjust the sight block up or down. If you need to make a major adjustment, you will loosen the lock knob on the front of the sight about 2 or 3 complete turns and push the knob towards the vertical base. You will then be able to slide the sight block up or down with ease. When you are close to the yardage that you want, then you micro adjust the sight block to get the exact yardage and tighten down the knob. When you are hitting the x at 7 yards, you can then step back to 20 yards and take a couple of more shots to fine tune. After you are sighted in at 20, you will have all the information you need if you are going to be using a computer generated sight tape. If not, repeat the process at 25, 30, 35 etc. for however many marks you want to have.