Excellent climb, why haven't I led this sooner! The start is hard and awkward - but jugs and easy ground soon arrived. Best climbed aggressively and confidently. After the start it's fun but not-too-tricky (presumably harder if you're short though?). Tricky to get any good gear in the upper-half.

Excellent climb, why haven't I led this sooner! The start is hard and awkward - but jugs and easy ground soon arrived. Best climbed aggressively and confidently. After the start it's fun but not-too-tricky (presumably harder if you're short though?). Tricky to get any good gear in the upper-half.

Force 9 gale. Nice route but would have been even nicer without the wind. Tactically a bit all over the place but no moves felt too hard. Kept fiddling in gear from awkward positions and then finding a great rest two moves on. Retreated for a rest a couple of times. Would be nice to try again in summer.
Oh yeah. Retreated for a rest on the ground after placing first gear for a rest. Not sure of the ethics of that

Force 9 gale. Nice route but would have been even nicer without the wind. Tactically a bit all over the place but no moves felt too hard. Kept fiddling in gear from awkward positions and then finding a great rest two moves on. Retreated for a rest a couple of times. Would be nice to try again in summer.
Oh yeah. Retreated for a rest on the ground after placing first gear for a rest. Not sure of the ethics of that

I understand now why the traverse was so much harder the first time I did this than the second. The first time I traversed on the lower break, legs flailing on nothing and essentially traversing into the end of the Link with worse gear in a worse place. Makes sense to step up to the higher break further left before starting the traverse.

with Bird

I understand now why the traverse was so much harder the first time I did this than the second. The first time I traversed on the lower break, legs flailing on nothing and essentially traversing into the end of the Link with worse gear in a worse place. Makes sense to step up to the higher break further left before starting the traverse.

Disappointed to fall of the start but still pleased that I got up and gave it a solid go ground up. Brilliant route with a scary traverse and mantle shelf. Great weekend with Shane, Amy, Tom, Jo and Alex.

with Tom Riddelsdell

Disappointed to fall of the start but still pleased that I got up and gave it a solid go ground up. Brilliant route with a scary traverse and mantle shelf. Great weekend with Shane, Amy, Tom, Jo and Alex.

Fell off about 2-3 metres up. My hand slipped out of a jam, my cam popped out, followed by a nut lower down and i hit the deck! Smacked my head on a rock and broke my helmet. Thank god for helmets, and the guy that gave me first aid.

Fell off about 2-3 metres up. My hand slipped out of a jam, my cam popped out, followed by a nut lower down and i hit the deck! Smacked my head on a rock and broke my helmet. Thank god for helmets, and the guy that gave me first aid.

Awesome, awesome route, done in the minutes before the heavens opened. The lower crack is fine as long as you don't spend long placing your gear. Bomber midsize cams can be placed high in worn placements after the first couple of moves before powering through to the good holds and ledge above. Arms were within seconds of failure when moving out to the ledge but just managed to stick it. One more balancey move above. Definitely in my top three leads to date.

with Dan Osbaldeston

Awesome, awesome route, done in the minutes before the heavens opened. The lower crack is fine as long as you don't spend long placing your gear. Bomber midsize cams can be placed high in worn placements after the first couple of moves before powering through to the good holds and ledge above. Arms were within seconds of failure when moving out to the ledge but just managed to stick it. One more balancey move above. Definitely in my top three leads to date.

Great lead by Jack. Another climb done in the pitch black, by head torch. Found the start very tough going although when I realised that I HAD to jam to get up it, it went okay-I sh. Found the rest of the route more enjoyable and easier. Will hopefully go back soon for the lead once I've practiced my jamming. Then it's onto the Link.

Great lead by Jack. Another climb done in the pitch black, by head torch. Found the start very tough going although when I realised that I HAD to jam to get up it, it went okay-I sh. Found the rest of the route more enjoyable and easier. Will hopefully go back soon for the lead once I've practiced my jamming. Then it's onto the Link.

Bare effort! I was tired from trying The Link several times! Didn't realise you had to keep pushing left, so carried on up Congo Corner. Nice route shame about the rope drag I managed to create by placing gear and not extending. Lesson learnt.

Bare effort! I was tired from trying The Link several times! Didn't realise you had to keep pushing left, so carried on up Congo Corner. Nice route shame about the rope drag I managed to create by placing gear and not extending. Lesson learnt.

Flippin' brilliant, had me smiling all the way up. The wandering line that evades the overhang really adds to the experience. Felt easy for the grade, but I imagine the mantel without the right sized cam would spice it up a bit!

with Johannes

Flippin' brilliant, had me smiling all the way up. The wandering line that evades the overhang really adds to the experience. Felt easy for the grade, but I imagine the mantel without the right sized cam would spice it up a bit!

Hard pumpy start, especially hanging around to get gear in. Found it a real struggle. Took me 3 goes up and down climbing the first 4 metres. once round the overhang, accidentally strayed onto the E1 which made it exciting before making the move round the corner and step up for the horn. Nice climbing up the breaks to the finish.

with Clair Fowler, Chris Waters

Hard pumpy start, especially hanging around to get gear in. Found it a real struggle. Took me 3 goes up and down climbing the first 4 metres. once round the overhang, accidentally strayed onto the E1 which made it exciting before making the move round the corner and step up for the horn. Nice climbing up the breaks to the finish.

My first HVS. Pumpy start but good protection once you get yourself settled at 5m. Need 3.5 cam at least to protect for the second crux. Only had a 3 so mentally solo'd the top 10m. Would like to try again with the right protection and concentrate on the climb rather than the fall!

My first HVS. Pumpy start but good protection once you get yourself settled at 5m. Need 3.5 cam at least to protect for the second crux. Only had a 3 so mentally solo'd the top 10m. Would like to try again with the right protection and concentrate on the climb rather than the fall!

Found this pretty steady at HVS to be honest. The bottom crack is awkward, but not actually hard. Good gear also. Once established on the ledge the moves up left are easy, then the moves back right at easy. The mantleshelf takes a good big piece of gear, and is a pretty hefty mantleshelf up to relatively poor holds at first. Then a bomber nut up and right for moves onto the horn which are a little bit strenous. And finish easily. Mid-range is not low-end HVS if you ask me.

Found this pretty steady at HVS to be honest. The bottom crack is awkward, but not actually hard. Good gear also. Once established on the ledge the moves up left are easy, then the moves back right at easy. The mantleshelf takes a good big piece of gear, and is a pretty hefty mantleshelf up to relatively poor holds at first. Then a bomber nut up and right for moves onto the horn which are a little bit strenous. And finish easily. Mid-range is not low-end HVS if you ask me.

Not sure if I traversed back right on the correct break, used the top one. Suspect it's easier but more run out than using lower one. Gear was very spaced but never felt urgent (high wire is very high!). Really satisfying route.

with Andy

Not sure if I traversed back right on the correct break, used the top one. Suspect it's easier but more run out than using lower one. Gear was very spaced but never felt urgent (high wire is very high!). Really satisfying route.

Hard! The initial section is stupidly pumpy and taxing despite appearences. Spent ages on the rest of the route because I could never quite de-pump. It just goes on and on and on. Was very very happy to reach the top when I did. Rather good in hindsight though.

with jamesca

Hard! The initial section is stupidly pumpy and taxing despite appearences. Spent ages on the rest of the route because I could never quite de-pump. It just goes on and on and on. Was very very happy to reach the top when I did. Rather good in hindsight though.

Rob got to the end of "the tanganyika traverse" then realised he needed a large "friend" to protect the mantleshelf. a good 5 or 10 minutes elapsed with Rob lowering down one of the ropes for me to tie the friend on and Rob haul it back up,all done with one hand of course! He finished in fine style for another top lead.

Rob got to the end of "the tanganyika traverse" then realised he needed a large "friend" to protect the mantleshelf. a good 5 or 10 minutes elapsed with Rob lowering down one of the ropes for me to tie the friend on and Rob haul it back up,all done with one hand of course! He finished in fine style for another top lead.