Watch Cheat Sheet

Is There A "Cheat Sheet" To Watch Collecting? Ask The Watch Snob

Nomos Zurich Worldtimer

Snob,
For better or worse, I got into watches about two years ago. The current keepers in my collection are Rolex Daytona, Rolex Explorer 2, Nomos Ludwig, and G Shock. I have some others, but I don't consider them keepers. After splurging on the Rolex and Nomos, I bought a couple more in the $1000 range but find myself hardly wearing them (but I wear my G Shock quite often).

So I am now pacing my watch purchases (want to add one piece each year) but want to add quality pieces. I am currently debating among JLC Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931, GS SBGA011 (Snowflake), and Nomos Zurich Worldtimer. What do you think is the most interesting watch in the group? Also, which do you think best complements my collection?

First of all let me congratulate you on an excellent collection; keepers all (especially the G-Shock). On the choices you are considering, I think the least compelling is the NOMOS. I have a great deal of respect for them and there is nothing exactly wrong with the Zurich, but it is rather on the busier side for a NOMOS, and besides, you already have one. The need for a dual time zone watch is taken care of by the Explorer II in any case.

That leaves the Seiko “Snowflake” and the Reverso. Just to clarify for readers, the Snowflake is a member of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive family, and it gets its name from its very beautiful textured white dial. Now these two watches happen to be both of them tremendously attractive and inherently interesting, although for slightly different reasons; the Spring Drive movements used in the Grand Seiko models are technically some of the most intriguing mechanisms in modern horology; while the Reverso Tribute to 1931 is probably the nicest of the modern Reversos — simple, cleanly done, and a watch whose tactility has been made to harmonize so well with its overall shape and size as to make it a small triumph of modern technical design.

This is an extremely difficult decision to make and in general I have no hesitation in recommending, at its price points, Seiko above most or all of its competitors but here I admit I would personally probably buy the Reverso. The Snowflake is very beautiful indeed but I think your collection would gain greater breadth and depth as it now stands if your next choice was the 1931. While the NOMOS can fill the role of dress watch in a pinch, it is really more a general-purpose, high quality wristwatch than a dress watch per se, and its elegance, to the extent that it has it, is muted. The Reverso, on the other hand, would bring a breath of historically grounded, real old-fashioned elegance to your collection and besides, it is a great deal of fun to play with the case.