Here are some cheap and easy modifications to improve your vehicles fuel system. I have a late 99 7.3L. These modifications don't have to be done but improve gas mileage, power and the life of your vehicle.

Fuel tank. After a dozen tanks of bio drop it and clean it. The debris in the tank just below the sending unit stick to the bottom of it and can restrict fuel pressure and flow.

Sending unit. Take out the restriction parts in the sending unit. They restrict flow.

Fuel pump. Bio's viscosity is thicker so the pressure on the fuel pump needs to be turned up. There is a stiffer spring that can be installed in the fuel pump to get a few more pounds of pressure. Or get an Air dog fuel pump for adjustable pressure. Plus it has additional fuel and water filters. Make sure to change the filters when necessary.

Fuel bowl. Take out the inner restriction parts in the fuel bowl to keep good flow. Keep additional fuel filters and tools in the vehicle in case you need to change a fuel filters on the road.

Fuel pressure gauge. Install a fuel pressure gauge. This will tell how to set and maintain the proper fuel pressure and when the filters need to be changed.

Tuner. Put a tune on the processor. Because of emissions, when your car is released from the manufacturer it is tuned for proper emission output. This makes your vehicle have less power and worse gas mileage. Now that you are burning a carbon neutral fuel its okay to allow your vehicle to emit a little more emissions. I use the street tune from SCT. Tunes advance the timing and fuel delivery to the injectors. Bio burns hotter (Higher combustion rate). Advancing the timing helps more of the fuel to be burned so less unburned fuel dilutes the engine oil. Fuel delivery helps the flow of fuel due to the viscosity change. Make sure to change the oil every 5K miles. Your engine and turbo thank you.

Fuel rail plug bore. Located in the front and back of the engine on the fuel rails is a screw/plug with small holes that the fuel flows through. Drill out the holes to 1/4” for better flow.

First Bio fill up. Bio diesel breaks down corrosion in the fuel tank and fuel system. Run a few tanks of B5 (5% bio diesel). Then B20. Then B50. Then B99. Change the fuel filter between every few fill ups. This helps to not clog up the fuel pump and other parts which can ruin them. Don't need to use any additives with bio diesel unlike older vehicles running on ULSD. And bio diesel keeps the fuel system clean.

Quality fuel. Use quality fuel. No water, glycerol, bacteria, low particulates, etc. It should be filtered to 2 micron. Get your fuel from a reputable fill station.

What is bio diesel and WVO (waste vegetable oil). Bio diesel is waste vegetable oil with the glycerol removed. WVO can be used as well. When using waste vegetable oil the glycerol cakes up the fuel system. If the fuel system is cleaned regularly it will not damage the engine. Cleaning the fuel system and running a heater for the vegetable oil is just a pain which is why I use bio diesel.

DIT and IDI. An indirect fuel system (IDI) in older vehicles is best for running alternative fuels because of the swirl effect in the prechamber. Waste engine oil, transmission fluid or vegetable oil can be used in one of these engines. Bio diesel is still a great fuel in direct injection (DIT) fuel systems.

Bio diesel is safe. Germany and lots of areas in Europe have been using bio diesel for decades with no problems. Millions of gallons used. Its new to the US so there are a lot of people not familiar with it. Most of the problems are due to bad fuel. Use good fuel in the right vehicle and you will have no problems. Because of the 25K plus fuel pressure and post fuel injection in the newer vehicles they are not good with bio diesel.

Politics. You are now not a consumer of the most corrupt product out there which is the reason it exists in the first place. Bio diesel is also carbon neutral, the exhaust smells good (don't let the dog lick the hot tail pipe). The vehicle runs quieter, smoother and fires up better.

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