So basically I have a problem with my bindings. The four screws that fasten the mounting discs to the snowboard will tend to back off every two or three runs and it's beginning to get annoying. Just to be clear: I do tighten the screws down firmly... any tighter and I would need my impact driver to remove them. I bought a Dakine Stance Driver to keep in my jacket, but would rather address the issue at its root cause. I've never had this problem before with any other past setup. I am beginning to suspect that the bindings are too stiff for the noodle-flexing board. By design, my bindings have flared out feet that protrude from all four corners of the baseplate to give even more stiffness and response. These Flux 'Stabiliser' feet are non-removable.

My Flux TT30 did not have this issue, and I am using the exact same hardware. I do a lot of buttering and presses-- and I mean A LOT of buttering and presses-- with lots of stress on the board when my weight lands far in the back seat. I just suspect the board, being so soft, is unable to bow back and forth around such a stiff binding's wide footprint, and that wiggling is backing off the hardware.

The bindings are Flux SF45. The board is Rome Artifact Rocker.

I've used blue thread lock and am now considering either ordering new hardware from Flux or using red or black thread lock.

teflon tape is NOT the same thing as threadlock. threadlock is an adhesive to help prevent loosening. teflon tape is used to seal pipe fittings to prevent leaks. I use teflon tape all the time for air tools to prevent air leaks and not only do the air fittings screw in easier when i use teflon tape; but they unscrew easier too.

come to think of it, i haven't ever had any air fittings loosen, not even on my hand numbing air hammer. teflon tape might actually be great to prevent screws from loosening from vibrations, and still only require a low torque to remove the screws. sorry about my outburst

Wish I can help.
I have an Artifact Rocker. I had rode it with bindings that have a stiff baseplates like Salomon Relay Series, K2 Agogo, etc. I never experience your problem even if I butter for a few runs.
I dunno where you are screwing in your bindings, but try to do it the night before in a warmer room on a flat surface instead of doing it on the snow.
If nothing works, try getting a different set of screws and see if that helps.

That sucks lux, I have been there before and it just sucks. Actually had a binder come completely off while riding, NOT fun. The tip about not re-tightening the bolts out in the cold is a solid one. Take your gear into the lodge and let it warm up first then re-tighten.

Now, for some thought into a permanent solution for you. Yes, everything we read about binders and hardware clearly states that you should never use loctite. Ever. But, funny thing is every piece of hardware I have ever seen has a few little dabs of Blue 242 threadlocker on it. I understand why companies say to never use loctite. Most people wouldn't think to let the loctite DRY before mounting your binders. Then...you more than likely will be shit out of luck trying to get that hardware back out of your board and then possibly destroy your inserts.

I say use some loctite on your hardware. BUT, let that shit DRY first before mounting!! Give it a solid 2 hours or so in warm temps before mounting. Coat the hell out of all the threads, top to bottom. What it seems like is happening is the hardware threads are a slightly different thread style than what your inserts are, which will cause the slightest amount of play in the hardware, THUS...causing the bolts to back themselves out.

Honestly, I would try ordering a new set of hardware before any of this. If your bolts have backed themselves out a few times already, I am sure the threads have been worn down even more (the insert threads could be slightly worn as well). But starting with fresh HW can't hurt.

Even with the new HW, I would still coat them in loctite before mounting the first time (once again let them dry!! ) Now here is the thing though....threadlocker blue 242 loctite does a damn fine job at well...locking threads, but I have found that under stress it dramatically reduces the effectiveness of the threadlocking capabilities. SO, I would suggest looking into a retention loctite compound. It's the red stuff btw. Personally I would use any of these....the 232, 635, 675 or possibly the 680. I think your best bet would be with the 232 or the 635. I have used both of those on may bike parts in our shop and it works many times better than the blue 242 when it comes to bolts under high stress.

SO, I say go right ahead with using loctite, and don't worry about it. As long as it's dry before you mount, I really don't see how it could damage anything. But, as with anything in life, you never totally know so don't come screaming at me if something gets messed up...even though I really don't think anything could.

Thanks guys, I'm going to buy Teflon tape tomorrow at the parts store since I've none at home and then try it on my board. I use it all the time for work but never to lock threads because, just to be clear, it actually DOES NOT secure fasteners. As GOBANANAS explains, Teflon tape is for sealing threaded connections and inhibit thread seizure, which is the opposite objective of thread lock. But if it's worked for some folks, then it's worth a shot. I was previously aware of the chemical reaction that thread lock compounds can have with some plastics, but it never occurred to me that my mounting disc was also a plastic product hahah (fail, I know lol...) I'll give it a try and post an update on the results; this will take a few days to play out.

Originally posted by GOBANANAS

teflon tape is NOT the same thing as threadlock. threadlock is an adhesive to help prevent loosening. teflon tape is used to seal pipe fittings to prevent leaks. I use teflon tape all the time for air tools to prevent air leaks and not only do the air fittings screw in easier when i use teflon tape; but they unscrew easier too.

Aye, I've got tape on all of my air tools too, as well as my air lines and torches. Great for sealing up those annoying air leaks in the brass fittings! Are you by any chance an automotive tradesman as well?

Originally posted by 2zz

I have an Artifact Rocker. I had rode it with bindings that have a stiff baseplates like Salomon Relay Series, K2 Agogo, etc. I never experience your problem even if I butter for a few runs.

Yeah it just seemed really strange to me because they were the exact same screws from my TT30 and they worked like a dream on the same board. I just can't put my finger on what's going on. Unfortunately, I don't have any other bindings on hand to verify my speculation that it is the stiffness and footprint of my SF45 that is a poor match and causing the issue.

Originally posted by batmanwest

That sucks lux, I have been there before and it just sucks. Actually had a binder come completely off while riding, NOT fun. The tip about not re-tightening the bolts out in the cold is a solid one. Take your gear into the lodge and let it warm up first then re-tighten.

Now, for some thought into a permanent solution for you. Yes, everything we read about binders and hardware clearly states that you should never use loctite. Ever. But, funny thing is every piece of hardware I have ever seen has a few little dabs of Blue 242 threadlocker on it. I understand why companies say to never use loctite. Most people wouldn't think to let the loctite DRY before mounting your binders. Then...you more than likely will be shit out of luck trying to get that hardware back out of your board and then possibly destroy your inserts.

I say use some loctite on your hardware. BUT, let that shit DRY first before mounting!! Give it a solid 2 hours or so in warm temps before mounting. Coat the hell out of all the threads, top to bottom. What it seems like is happening is the hardware threads are a slightly different thread style than what your inserts are, which will cause the slightest amount of play in the hardware, THUS...causing the bolts to back themselves out.

Honestly, I would try ordering a new set of hardware before any of this. If your bolts have backed themselves out a few times already, I am sure the threads have been worn down even more (the insert threads could be slightly worn as well). But starting with fresh HW can't hurt.

Even with the new HW, I would still coat them in loctite before mounting the first time (once again let them dry!! ) Now here is the thing though....threadlocker blue 242 loctite does a damn fine job at well...locking threads, but I have found that under stress it dramatically reduces the effectiveness of the threadlocking capabilities. SO, I would suggest looking into a retention loctite compound. It's the red stuff btw. Personally I would use any of these....the 232, 635, 675 or possibly the 680. I think your best bet would be with the 232 or the 635. I have used both of those on may bike parts in our shop and it works many times better than the blue 242 when it comes to bolts under high stress.

SO, I say go right ahead with using loctite, and don't worry about it. As long as it's dry before you mount, I really don't see how it could damage anything. But, as with anything in life, you never totally know so don't come screaming at me if something gets messed up...even though I really don't think anything could.

Good luck homie, and fill us in on what you try, and if it works!

Thanks BMW for your generous suggestion! Right now I'll give Teflon tape a try being that it's less invasive. Failing that, I will use heavy duty red thread lock (as an experiment) before ordering hardware.

I figured I would chime in here. My GFs binding screws were backing out like crazy and I was the one who had to tighten them. So I decided to put some blue thread lock on them. I was very careful when applying that it was only on the metal of the screw threads and the metal of the board inserts. Been over a year now and screws are holding tight and bindings have not been damaged. So far so good.

I know on some jib boards, specifically the Capita Horrorscope and Stairmaster, to allow them to be super flexible the cores are thinner. As a result, you have to use a shorter screw or else it will bottom out and not tighten all the way. If you muscle down on it with standard screws, it will dimple the bottom of the base. My example is specific to Capita, but Rome may have thinner cores on their jib boards also.

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