i've got a question about the EGR. Right now i've got ARP studs and for months she hasn't puked any coolant. Well the other day i noticed a few drops around the cap. I'm thinking that the EGR flash boiled the coolant and it puked just a little. I want to do a full EGR cooler delete like the liberator kit before i blow the HG again. However, i dont have $600 right now to spend and i still am under warranty. However i have two questions:

1.) will the cap that goes between the cooler and up pipe from eliete diesel work ok untill the warranty is up? i know coolant will still go through the cooler but it will keep the exhaust gases out of it and keep the stock appearance for warranty reasons right?

2.) if i did do the full EGR delete, i'm not doing the FCDP as i'm not replacing the whole manifold. i do however want to replace the up pipe with a unit like the liberator kit, or Innovatives new up pipe. Can this be installed without removing the cab? does anyone have a write up of how to do it and what needs to be removed to get to it?

also, i have tunes with the SCT from Eric so the EGR valve is already closed at all times.

Drop the EGR up-pipe and weld her up nicely. IF you want to save some cash find some 1.5" round steel stock, cut a piece about 1/4" thick to weld in the "T".
I've been running that way for 2 years now and it's working beautifully. You may want to get the new coolant bottle cap. Seems as Ford updated the design. I had intermittent minor puking only at the bottle, thought I needed the full EGR but the modded up-pipe and new cap has proven to prevent any more puking.

Additionaly if you are running lifted you need to stay BELOW the "MIN" line on the coolant tank. My fluid sits about 1/4" below the "MIN" line to compensate for the 4.5" lift.

Officially The Biggest Midget In The Game(In support of Zmann's request)

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Thank you very much for the compliment. It's been a long 3 years but I enjoy it.

The modded up-pipe allows you to retain the EGR cooler. This is of your choice of course but you don't need to remove the cooler. IF your cooler is already ruptured, then the only real option is the full EGR delete. Choose your source since there are several kits out there on the market.

The up-pipe can be done with the cab on, it's just easier when you have the cab pulled. I have done all my work in the driveway using hand tools without any sort of lift or air tools. If you remove the passenger side wheel, wheel well liner and the down pipe the access to the up-pipe is much easier. Two people working makes this just that much easier especially on the upper end where there are two bolts to remove that are basically behind the turbo.

Officially The Biggest Midget In The Game(In support of Zmann's request)

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I see you said you dont want to do FCDP's kit, but IMO and i say again IMO thats the only right way to do it, completely gets rid of the EGR cooler and no more EGR worries. Im currently running FCDP's kit and i have NO COMPLAINTS, not to mention that they have AWESOME customer service!

i'm sure it is great, however i dont like the idea of welding shut the EGR hole. If at any time i need to go back i cant,,, thanks though.

I understand you there and dont blame you one bit, if you wanted to im sure you could talk to Adam and have them set up your EGR delete custom, im sure they would leave the EGR valve alone and do all the other things, that way if you did the delete and had to pass an inspection, you could. If a 250 dollar core charge isnt a big deal to you, just keep your old intake manifold and uppipe and if you want to go back, just change it back. Just a thought....But either way you go GOODLUCK!!

Another option for those that don't want to get caught with their EGR cooler pants down - as it were - might want to consider upgrading their EGR cooler to this one: Ford EGR Cooler Upgrade. It keeps the truck in its stock configuration and also gives the owner complete piece of mind with regards to the EGR cooler.

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