Achievements

Hi, sorry for the late response! You've probably already figured it out by now, but you'll need about 36" of yellow and 48" of red cord. Hope that helps!

The red is meant to look like the stitched seams on a softball with the same kind of linear chevron pattern. Without the splice, just like Brian M V said, the pattern would be different and not look like softball seams.

Hey TheCrafsMan! This technique worked great. It was quick, it was easy, and I will be using it many more times for a variety of projects! In two spots I was a little too aggressive and pulled away some of the print but it gave the label sort of a distressed look, so cool. It's all good! Thanks again!

I did, but not this style. I just made a loop with the strap, punched a hole in it, grommeted it and attached it using an exisiting fender bolt. They worked like a charm (as did the one in this instructable :-) ) on the 700 mile round-trip drive to and from downeast Maine last week.

I think that's a really good idea... with PVC it would remain light weight, it would pretty much eliminate the chance, however small, of the strapping tearing the hose, you'd just have to get the correct corresponding sizes of pipe and hose to ensure a good fit. If you make one, I'd love to see it!

No, the hatch is closed and sealed, the length of nylon strapping is the only part protruding. Since the strap is so thin, the hatch closes no problem.

Yes, I think you could that or PVC as well, it's just that I see the flexibility of the hose as an important asset. If it were to have the hatch close on it (user error, to which I am sometimes prone, for example) the hatch would just bounce off, the hose would be unhurt, and the tie-down would be adjusted and hatch closed properly. With the conduit, likely all those same things would occur but there is the chance that the conduit would crack. Plus the rubber hose rubbing up against the inside of the hatch/trunk/what-have-you would likely not mark up the vehicle as conduit or PVC might.

Thanks!I had thought about using PVC, but was concerned with a couple things about it. It's very rigid and could potentially crack. PVC weakens in sunlight over time and I'm not sure how it would handle the temperature changes that can happen inside a car on a hot day as well. The radiator hose is very flexible, very strong, can withstand a great range of temperatures, and is pliable enough not chafe the edge of the strap like PVC might.

Your deck came out great! I very much like the border around the edge, gives it a very high-end, finished feel. I'm curious about he blocks you used for footings and how deep they are in the ground. Are you concerned at all with them coming out of level due to freezing or water run off? I'd very much like to do an addition like this to my existing deck, but I have always been put off by the thought of having to dig - at least three feet down - through the ledge (my gosh - the LEDGE I have) and pour footings (to prevent movement due to freezing) when planning something like this. Your method would make it so much easier!Thanks and great work!

Made sort of a smaller version of this - I did a canoe seat. it wound up looking really good (I see the mistakes I made, no one else does which is okay) and is more comfortable to sit on than the original wicker/rattan seat that was in there originally. Thanks for the great Instructable to help me get through it!