Today is January 1st, 2017 and I am going to start the new year out with a couple of saws that I will be re-furbishing to good working order.

I have been looking to buy a cabinet saw for several months and debating on whether I would buy a used saw or a new saw. I had my eyes on a 3HP/10” ShopFox W1819 that sells for right at $1,800 that included a mobile base and free delivery – verses scouring Craig’s List and Ebay and the local ads looking at Delta UniSaws and Powermatics.

Two days ago on Craig’s List I saw an ad for a PowerMatic 66 about an hour’s drive from me. The ad had no photos but said it had a 52” fence and was a 3HP Single Phase, so I called and let the seller know I was very interested.

As we talked he explained that he had bought the PM66 when the Delta UniSaw he had (a newer version) had broken a tooth on the trunnion gear that raises and lowers the blade. But he never used the PM66 (it was a used saw – era 1980’s) and it was left to sit in a shed on his dad’s farm. He also said that he had two bandsaws and wanted to sell one.

Well today I went to look at the PowerMatic 66 and the 14” Bandsaw (probably General Tool or comparable HFT?) while the PM 66 is in need of TLC and in some rough shape,I think I made a good deal all in all.

I got the seller to load the two saws up in his 2015 Ford Pickup and delivery to my garage for a grand total of $620.00.

I will be busy inspecting and disassembling and restoring the PM 66 back to top shape. I am inspired by those of you who have taken these great saws down to the bare metal and that is what I think I will be doing.

I do need a few items (did not have a miter gauge or blade guard) and a couple of knobs are missing, but I am ready to see this saw get taken apart and brought back to better than new condition. If I want to document my restore, what is the best way to post the progress?

Finally tell me what do you think of my New Year’s tool finds?

Best regards to all and a Happy New Year – Richard in MN

-- "can't died in the poor house" (Because he always went around saying... "I can't")

Document rebuilds in your own LumberJock blog section. It’s what I did for my Jet planer and Unisaw rebuilds. Take lots of pictures :)That PM66…is it 3phase? Looks different from my 240v power switch box.I posted a LumberJock review on purchase of a Sharkguard for my PM66.And a mini-pallet and base to move heavy machines around.Price is excellent for both PM66 and bandsaw (though skittish about the question of 3phase, no rails, no fence). Your bandsaw looks like mine…the famous era of 2001 Taiwan 14” bandsaw clones.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

Yes it came with the T-Fence “Beiesmeyer” made for Powermatic in Arizona, USA. Plus it is the long rail. Not sure if I have room for the long rails I am looking for a short rail set. Thanks for the comments. Richard

-- "can't died in the poor house" (Because he always went around saying... "I can't")

The motor is a 3HP single phase. That control box is not original. Not sure what it is about yet. I plan on going with a proper switch. If anyone can tell me about what the options are for a “starter switch” that would be a BIG help!

I would prefer to have a PADDLE switch… Thanks

-- "can't died in the poor house" (Because he always went around saying... "I can't")

s much as I love my Delta X5 I would have preferred a T66. Mine was 10 blocks from my house and came with a shop fox saw dust vacuum, $1000. Not quite as good as your deal but a real good deal none the less.

That machine should have a starter, which is essentially a relay and overload protection, possibly with a control voltage coil. The start/stop buttons are momentary push buttons that engage the relay or break the electrical connection to disengage the relay. Post some pictures of the inside of the box and I can tell you what you got. If you get a paddle switch, you don’t want to get the ‘maintained’ type, which is one that when pushed, keeps the contact closed. It needs to be momentary (NO start, NC stop). If yours has the buttons on the front of the starter (powermatics did that a lot), then you will have to change the wiring a bit to allow for a remote control station – typically known as three wire control.

The box on the front of the saw was nothing more than a Square D 60 amp Circuit Breaker.

I believe the Marathon Motor has a starter as part of the motor assembly. On the picture of the motor I think it is the square piece?

What do you guys think?

I want to use a WoodTec Mechanical push button switch It features an oversize “paddle” stop and comes with a safety pin to lock out the on position. It says it is rated for 120/230VAC 1PH (35A or 20A) or 208/230/480VAC 3PH (20A or 15A), 60 Hz power. UL listed.

If I can confirm that the starter is in fact the “square box looking part” attached to the motor housing then I think all I will need is to get the paddle switch and wire it up?

Any help is greatly appreciated! Richard

That machine should have a starter, which is essentially a relay and overload protection, possibly with a control voltage coil. The start/stop buttons are momentary push buttons that engage the relay or break the electrical connection to disengage the relay. Post some pictures of the inside of the box and I can tell you what you got. If you get a paddle switch, you don t want to get the maintained type, which is one that when pushed, keeps the contact closed. It needs to be momentary (NO start, NC stop). If yours has the buttons on the front of the starter (powermatics did that a lot), then you will have to change the wiring a bit to allow for a remote control station – typically known as three wire control.

Cheers,Brad

- MrUnix

-- "can't died in the poor house" (Because he always went around saying... "I can't")

Somebody has bastardized that saw at some point unfortunately. I can’t fully read that sticker, but it doesn’t appear to indicate if the overload protection is in the motor or external. Is there an orange or red ‘reset’ button on the motor itself? And that should just be the wiring junction box – starters do not get mounted on the motors.

So it looks like someone has possibly swapped out the original motor on that saw and removed the starter and control station for some reason. Using a circuit breaker box for power control is not ideal, and if the motor has an internal overload protector that automatically resets, that presents a real safety issue and is considered dangerous. But at this point, it’s hard to say without seeing more. That switch may work, but it might not be the best option – it is a mechanical switch, so if the power goes off, the switch will remain in the on position. When the power comes back on, so does the saw. A starter or mag-switch will not come on after a power fail.

Yes I am sure the original motor starter and switch box is long gone. And I was surprised to find that Square D 60 amp breaker inside that grey switch box.

You are probably right about the Marathon Motor. I will contact Marathon as they are still in business over in Wisconsin, USA. Perhaps they can tell me what I need to protect the motor.

Yes I am aware of the fact that this particular paddle switch is a mechanical type. And YES there is a red reset button on the Marathon Motor on the back end of the case.

So in learning more about what I have and don’t have, I hope I can narrow it down to what it is I need exactly to control and protect the motor. By the time I get to that point in the re-conditioning process I am sure some one will have educated me and I will get the right equipment ahead of the motor. Thanks again! Richard

Somebody has bastardized that saw at some point unfortunately. I can t fully read that sticker, but it doesn t appear to indicate if the overload protection is in the motor or external. Is there an orange or red reset button on the motor itself? And that should just be the wiring junction box – starters do not get mounted on the motors.

So it looks like someone has possibly swapped out the original motor on that saw and removed the starter and control station for some reason. Using a circuit breaker box for power control is not ideal, and if the motor has an internal overload protector that automatically resets, that presents a real safety issue and is considered dangerous. But at this point, it s hard to say without seeing more. That switch may work, but it might not be the best option – it is a mechanical switch, so if the power goes off, the switch will remain in the on position. When the power comes back on, so does the saw. A starter or mag-switch will not come on after a power fail.

Cheers,Brad

- MrUnix

-- "can't died in the poor house" (Because he always went around saying... "I can't")

Something like this magnetic switch should work… no where as robust as a NEMA (which was on there from the factory) or even an IEC switch (on most of the asian imports these days), but since your motor apparently has a built in overload protector, this would get you running and be safer than the one you were looking at. An IEC type starter would be the next step up, but I don’t know if you will find one with a paddle stop.

Congratulations on the new additions to your family. Great score on both saws, even if the Powermatic need some TLC. An 80’s era powermatic is what I was looking for when I stumbled on an Oliver. That 66 is the last saw you will ever need. I look forward to watching the restoration