Ramen Wars: Australian chefs weigh in on what makes a good ramen

The best ramen is the subject of many heated debates. Chefs Andrew McConnell and Stephen Seckold talk us through the mystery that is ramen.

There's something about ramen. The homely, slow cooked noodle soup elicits passionate arguments about who makes it best, what soup base reigns supreme and which noodles take out top honours. If you've clocked the fanaticism but still don't know what all the fuss is about, top chefs (and ramen advocates) Stephen Seckold (Sydney's Salaryman) and Andrew McConnell (Melbourne's Supernormal) give us the low-down (and their recipes) for a truly good ramen.

It might have come by way of China, but ramen — as we know it today — is recognised as a distinctly Japanese dish. "Three main components make ramen," says Stephen Seckold. "First, there are the noodles. They're unique because they're alkaline based, not made with any egg, and they're designed to hold their structure in a hot soup — which is important." The thickness and shape of the noodle might vary (Seckold favours a thinner style), but the ability to retain structure is essential.

"Then there is the broth, which for many people is the main event. And finally the finishing egg. Those are the essential components."

Typically there are four basic broth types offered; pork tonkotsu, salty chicken or pork shio, miso, and soy shoyu. But this can vary widely and is the subject of much debate and secrecy. Add to that the fact that toppings and cooking times are all a matter of chef's choice, and you get a hot-bed of debate around who does it best.

"A good ramen is the sum of many parts coming together to make one harmonious meal," says McConnell. "The broth needs to have a structured flavour and good body. The noodles should be slightly chewy and be able to absorb the flavour of the broth. Then simple condiments that complement the soup vary widely from kitchen to kitchen."

McConnell's ramen at Supernormal in Melbourne has earned a cult following of its own and is based on the lighter style of chicken broth.

At Salaryman, Seckold currently offers four types of evolving ramen, but feels that the Australian palate prefers a lighter style of ramen broth.

"People love the intrigue of ramen," says the chef, agreeing that ramen houses are notoriously secretive about their variations on the basic building blocks. But it's this variation and personal detail that make it so attractive. "In Japan, some people love a 2-week or even 4-week [tonkotsu] broth, where the bones have completely disintegrated. That's the porkiest, heaviest thing you've ever tasted. It gives that sticky-lip and thick mouth-feel. But the ones here in Sydney are typically 3 or 4-day broths." At Salaryman, they cook the chicken base for around 18-hours, while the pork might go for a day and a half. For Seckold, the most important tip is to trust your own taste.

"I don't like to go too heavy, and I do cop flack for that. But that's what I like, and I cook what I feel works – that's the key with ramen. It should be your individual take on it." Perhaps it's exactly this room for personal preference that gets people so fired up about who does it best.
One consistent ingredient in the best ramen is patience. According to McConnell, if you allow enough time for the broth flavours to develop then you're heading in the right direction.

"The foundation of a good ramen is the broth — which is a closely guarded secret in each ramen restaurant. When you're making it at home, allow enough time to cook the broth long and slow."