Recognized by physicians
and nurses as one of the
nation’s best dermatologists,
Charles E. Crutchfield III,
MD’s countless honors
include the Mayo Clinic’s
Karis Humanitarian Award
and being named to
Minnesota Medicine‘s “100
Most Influential Health Care
Leaders in Minnesota.” Dr.
Crutchfield is a physician,
teacher, author, patented
inventor, entrepreneur,
and philanthropist who
mentors the next generation
of physicians. Whether
for medical or aesthetic
concerns, if you or a loved
one deserves the highest
quality skin care from a
leading dermatologist,
Crutchfield Dermatology is
the right call.

VOLUME 15, NUMBER 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S, Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402,
612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission
from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on
paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain
healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

spring
fall 2019
2009 real food 3

bites

Breaking Bread
Celebration breads from savory to sweet bring most every culture together

D

uring holidays when you gather with family and friends, there’s only one thing that’s more guaranteed than having to scout
out potential post-meal nap spots, and that’s having an abundance of food. And no matter which holidays you celebrate,
there is often bread on the table. From fancier options such as braided challah to the utility players that are dinner rolls,
bread has the ability to tie the entire meal together.
With the ubiquity of bread, it’s not a surprise that every culture has its great bread traditions. In their new book, “Holiday and
Celebration Bread in 5 Minutes a Day: Sweet and Decadent Baking for Every Occasion,” Zoë François and Jeff Hertzberg share
approachable baking methods to create savory and sweet breads for every occasion. Here are recipes from their book to
try out at your next spring holiday gathering or anytime you want to enjoy home-baked treats. —Kyle Smelter

(with paddle). If
you’re not using a
machine, you may
need to use wet
hands to incorporate the last bit of
flour. The dough
will be loose but will
firm up when chilled; don’t try to work with it before chilling. Cover
(not airtight), and allow to rest at room temperature for 2 hours,
then refrigerate.
3. The dough can be used as soon as it’s thoroughly chilled, at least
3 hours. Refrigerate the container and use over the next 5 days.
4. On baking day, dust the surface of the refrigerated dough
with flour and cut off a 2-pound (cantaloupe-size) piece. Divide
the dough into 9 equal pieces and quickly shape into balls. Place
2 inches apart on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or
a silicone mat, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and rest at room
temperature for about 45 minutes.
5. Preheat the oven to 350°F, with a rack placed in the center of
the oven.
6. Brush the tops with egg wash and place the baking sheet in the
oven. Bake for about 25 minutes, or until richly browned.
7. To make the icing, mix the cream cheese, butter, confectioners’
sugar and maple syrup in a small bowl.
8. Allow to cool completely. Pipe the icing in a cross over the top
of each bun. There will be extra icing for spreading on the buns.

AVOCADOS MAXIMLESHKOVICH - FOTOLIA.COM

These crowd-pleasing buns hail from the British Isles, where they are eaten on Good Friday.
Even before the introduction of Christianity to England, Saxons made buns marked with
a cross to celebrate the goddess Eostre, the namesake of this holiday, a tradition which was
later incorporated into the celebration of the Resurrection. Many legends surround hot cross
buns. For example, some believe that hot cross buns baked for Easter will never go bad and
can be kept as a good luck charm. Some chefs even claim that keeping a leftover bun hanging
in the kitchen prevents breads from getting burnt. We think an oven timer works better for
that, but we do know that this recipe will satisfy your Easter sweet tooth every year.

Kolache
MAKES 8 (3-INCH) PASTRIES

When Czech immigrants came to the United States in the 19th
and early 20th centuries, they brought the kolache, a buttery
roll filled with fruit or poppy seeds. Once the dessert of simple
peasants, kolache came to be served at occasions ranging from
church fundraisers to weddings. Even today, Czech-American
communities across the Great Plains, including New Prague in
our own home state of Minnesota, celebrate their heritage with
annual kolache festivals. The world’s largest known kolache,
weighing in at 2,605 pounds, was made in Prague, Nebraska, but
your family will be just as impressed by these bite-sized versions.
1½ pounds (small cantaloupe–size portion)
Amish-Style Milk Bread dough (see recipe right)
all-purpose flour, for dusting
egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water),
for brushing the loaf
1 cup filling (such as almond cream, applesauce
or prune filling)
1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.
2. Dust the surface of the refrigerated dough with flour and cut
off a 1½-pound (small cantaloupe-size) piece. Dust the piece with
more flour and quickly shape it into a rough ball by stretching
the surface of the dough around to the bottom, rotating the ball
a quarter-turn as you go.
3. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out to a ½-inch-thick rectangle, about 8×9 inches, adding flour as needed to prevent sticking.
4. Using a 3-inch round cookie cutter, cut out about a dozen circles. (Return the scraps to the bucket of dough to use later.) Lay
the dough rounds on the prepared baking sheet, cover loosely
with plastic wrap, and allow to rest at room temperature for
45 minutes; they should be very soft and puffy.
5. Preheat the oven to 350°F, with a rack placed in the center
of the oven.
6. Make an indent in the middle of each dough round, about
1½ inches in diameter. Fill that indent with 2 tablespoons of your
prepared filling of choice. Brush the exposed edges with the
egg wash.
7. Bake the pastries for about 20 minutes, or until the dough is
golden brown. Serve warm or cooled.

2½ cups whole milk
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon granulated yeast
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/3 cup sugar
6¼ cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup potato flour
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and
slightly cooled
1. Mix the milk, eggs, yeast, salt and sugar in a 6-quart bowl or a
lidded (not airtight) food container.
2. Mix the flours and butter with the milk mixture without kneading, using a heavy-duty stand mixer (with paddle), a Danish dough
whisk or a spoon.
3. Cover (not airtight), allow to rest at room temperature for
2 hours, and then refrigerate.
4. The dough can be used as soon as it’s thoroughly chilled, at least
3 hours. Refrigerate the container and use over the next 5 days.
5. Proceed to Kolache recipe step 2 for preparing and baking
Kolache with this dough.
Cook’s Note: To make into a loaf, dust refrigerated dough with
flour and cut off a cantaloupe-size portion, form into an oval, and
place in a greased 81/2x 41/2-inch nonstick loaf pan. Cover loosely
with plastic wrap and rest at room temp for 90 minutes. Brush
top with egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water) and
bake at 350°F for about 50 minutes. Remove from pan to cool. 

chef’s toque, the tall and pleated hat, is a symbol
of rank and expertise in the restaurant kitchen.
Each pleat, according to kitchen lore, represents a
different type of egg cookery that the chef has mastered.
While it may seem simple, egg cooking requires a special
type of attention and versatility. The egg is central to
recipes and classic dishes across cultures and cuisines.
And like most simple techniques, the more we dig, the
more subtle complications we find. Here we tackle two
egg dishes that can prove frustrating—the omelet and
poached eggs—and offer tips for success.

Poached Eggs
MAKES 1 SERVING

A poached egg is an elegant and purist egg cooking technique. Use it for breakfast or just as easily
on top of a salad or a sautéed steak. The technique is not complicated and only uses two ingredients—fresh eggs and hot water. The rest is a bit of patience.
1. Fill a nonstick pan with 1 to 2 inches of water. On high heat, bring water to a simmer, then
reduce heat to low to keep the gentlest bubble of a simmer.
2. Crack 4 eggs and carefully add them to the hot water, putting each egg in a different spot
in the pan and leaving space between each egg.
3. Cook on very low heat for 2 to 3 minutes covered with a lid.
4. Use a fish spatula or thin metal spatula and slide under eggs if they stick to the bottom of pan.
5. Cook eggs for another 2 to 3 minutes, for a total of roughly 4 to 5 minutes for an egg with a
runny yolk, or 6 to 7 minutes for a fully cooked and solid poached egg.

POACHED EGG TIPS:
• To avoid little strings of egg white on poached eggs, use the freshest eggs possible. Fresh
eggs can last well up to a month, but as they age, the egg whites become watery and thin.
• Use just enough water to cover the eggs as they cook—1 or 2 inches is plenty. Too much
water makes it harder to find eggs in the poaching water.
• Do not let the water boil. A gentle heat, barely a simmer, helps keep the egg in a nice
compact shape.
• To serve poached eggs for large groups, transfer the poached eggs from hot poaching
water to a bowl of ice water. Store the ice water bowl (and eggs) in the refrigerator for up to
4 hours. Then warm them in hot water for 1 minute before serving.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

6 real food spring 2019

Classic American Omelet
MAKES 1 SERVING

Perfect for breakfast or dinner, the omelet is the standard for egg cookery technique. Use a good nonstick pan and rubber
spatula to make the classic folded omelet.
3 eggs
1 tablespoon butter
pinch of salt
pinch ground pepper
½ cup omelet filling

1. In a medium sized bowl, using a fork, whisk eggs until all whites are fully incorporated and the mixture is smooth
and creamy.
2. Heat a non-stick medium sized (8-inch) pan on medium heat. Add butter and melt until it is frothy but not yet brown.
3. Pour in eggs. Gently shake and tilt the pan to distribute eggs around the pan.
4. Cook the eggs to form a skin on the bottom of the pan for roughly 1 minute. Next, using a silicon spatula or wooden
spoon, pull the eggs from the side of the pan and pull toward the center. This will leave an empty space in the pan
where you pulled the eggs. Tilt the pan and pour raw egg mixture into that empty space. Repeat this process in different areas around the edge of the pan 2 to 3 times. Each time pull cooked eggs along the bottom of the pan toward the
center, and swirl uncooked eggs from the top to fill in the space. Repeat until the eggs have set enough that there are
no longer any liquid eggs on top. The bottom of the omelet will be nearly golden brown and the top surface will still be
a bit wet and shiny, but not liquid and runny.
5. Sprinkle a pinch of salt and pepper, and add optional omelet filling across half the omelet.
6. Next tilt the pan and use the spatula to fold the omelet in half over the filling and lower onto a plate. Serve immediately.

OMELET TIPS:
• Besides the classic fillings listed here, an omelet is
a great place to be creative or even use up leftovers.
Cooked broccoli from last night’s dinner is perfect with
some cheese melted in an omelet. Cooked potatoes,
shrimp, herbs piling up in the garden, pico de gallo,
some steak or lonely cold cuts could all easily find a
delicious spot in your omelet as well.
• I find mixing eggs with a fork works well for small quantities. If mixing 12 or more eggs, a whisk works better.

NUTRITION

• Having trouble with a runny omelet? Don’t panic. Just
turn off the heat and put a lid on the pan. The residual
heat in the pan and in the cooked omelet will tighten
up the runny eggs in a few minutes. Open the pan and
serve without fear. 

word about how truly delicious and
beautiful whole, real foods can be
through her work as an author,
cooking teacher and private chef.
She likes to create delicious dishes
that range from meat and seafood to
beans and grains using global flavors.
Her latest book is “300 Best Blender
Recipes Using Your Vitamix.” She is
also the author of “Great Bowls of
Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls,
Broth Bowls and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big
Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat,
No Dairy, All Delicious”; “The New
Vegetarian”; and “Gluten-Free Pasta.”

Lara Miklasevics began her

food career on the other side of the
camera, cooking at the renowned New
French Café in Minneapolis. Today
her work as a stylist is in demand at
corporations including Heinz, Target
and General Mills, as well as with
many magazines. She prides herself
on using her experience as a chef to
make food as appealing on the page
as it is on the plate.

Jodi Moreno is a natural foods

chef, recipe developer, stylist and
creator of the What’s Cooking Good
Looking blog. She is enthusiastic
about healthy living, delicious food,
and showing people that vegetables
can play a main role on the plate
in flavorful recipes. After attending
culinary school, she began sharing her
meals on her blog, which has been
named twice by Saveur magazine as
a finalist for the best overall cooking
blog and was a PBS best blog of the
year. Her work has been featured in
Vogue, Better Homes and Gardens,
Saveur, Food52 and Bon Appetit. She
lives in New York City and Amagansett,
NY, with her husband, Michael, and her
dog, Bayley.

Terry Brennan is a

Erica De Mane became

infatuated with cooking as a teenager,
drawing inspiration from her Southern
Italian-American family’s kitchen.
She cooked in restaurants including
Le Madri and Florent in Manhattan
and has written articles on Italian
cooking for Food & Wine, The New
York Times, Gourmet, Fine Cooking
and other publications. On her blog
at ericademane.com, she posts
improvisational Italian recipes and
cooking videos as well as on Facebook
and YouTube. Her cookbook, “Pasta
Improvvisata,” which was published
in 1999, was singled out for praise
by The New York Times in its twiceyearly cookbook roundup. De Mane
also gives private and group cooking
classes on Southern Italian cooking
and the Mediterranean diet. She lives
in Manhattan.

8 real food spring 2019

photographer based in Minneapolis,
Minnesota. Clients include Target,
General Mills, Land O’Lakes and
Hormel. “Working with Real Food
is a highlight for me—I look forward
to every issue. I love working with
the creative team and, of course,
sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Jason Ross is a chef consultant

for restaurants and hotels, developing
menus and concepts for multiple high
profile properties. He trained and grew
up in New York City, but now calls
St. Paul, Minnesota, home where he
teaches the next generation of chefs at
Saint Paul College Culinary School.

Tara Q. Thomas intended to

be a chef when she trained at the
Culinary Institute of America in New
York but got sidetracked by wine.
She has been writing about it
for nearly 20 years now, most
prominently at Wine & Spirits
Magazine, where she is executive
editor. Author of “The Complete
Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics” and a
contributor to “The Oxford Companion
to Cheese” and the forthcoming
“The Oxford Companion to Spirits
and Cocktails,” she also sits on the
advisory panel for the International
Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training
Program. She lives in Brooklyn, New
York, juggling a laptop and two small
children—and still cooks nearly nightly,
albeit for a smaller crowd.

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Community
Partner
T

his past fall we had the opportunity
to open our newest Lunds & Byerlys
in White Bear Lake. As a local,
family-owned company, these are always
momentous occasions for us as we bring
our brand of quality, service and expertise
to new families.
These moments also serve as a great
reminder that opening a grocery store is
about so much more than selling groceries. It’s an opportunity to begin building
meaningful and lasting relationships with
those we serve.
And, for us, doing so means many things.
It means having a deep sense of care and
compassion for our customers. Genuine
hospitality, you might say. It means being
an involved community partner. And it
means sourcing products that represent a
level of quality we’re proud to serve to our
family and friends.
Our remarkable staff is working hard
every day to deliver on all of these promises,
and a couple recent examples help bring
that to light.
For years we’ve been committed to providing you with more and more organic
offerings. We are also committed to helping our local organic farming community
through our annual Organic Farming Grant.
This year we awarded our grant to The
Good Acre. They are doing great work in

our community to not only serve as an
invaluable resource for organic farmers
throughout the Twin Cities, but also in
getting a significant amount of the produce
grown on those farms sent to local school
districts so school lunches can include
locally grown organic produce. You can
read more about The Good Acre on page 13.
Our focus on local also extends to sourcing products throughout every department
of our stores. We even offer a wild-caught
salmon that has a local angle. We’ve partnered with Surrender Salmon to provide
you with a Responsibly Sourced sockeye
salmon from Bristol Bay, Alaska. All of the
salmon are caught by the Niver family, who
lives right here in the Twin Cities during the
winter months. See the story on pages 10-11
to learn more about our partnership with
Surrender Salmon.
We thank you for choosing to shop at
Lunds & Byerlys and hope you continue to
enjoy Real Food.

Sincerely,

Tres Lund
President and CEO

FOOD QUESTIONS?
Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

REAL FOOD COMMENTS
Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 9

Lunds & Byerlys
xxxxxxx

Surrender Salmon
Bringing Alaska’s “red gold” to the Land of 10,000 Lakes
BY SCOTT KERSTING, DIRECTOR OF MEAT AND SEAFOOD
The Niver family fishes aboard their boat, the
F/V Surrender, on the pristine waters of Bristol Bay, Alaska.

S

urrender Salmon’s sockeye salmon comes to you straight from
Bristol Bay, Alaska. Spectacular, vast and thriving, Bristol Bay is
home to six major river systems that welcome the largest wild
sockeye salmon run in the world—over 61 million sockeye made their
way up the watershed in 2018. It’s here that the Niver family fishes
aboard their boat, the F/V Surrender.
Although they fish in Alaska, the Nivers’ story has strong Minnesota
roots. It’s here, in Prior Lake, where patriarch Mark Niver was born
and raised. As a teenager, he spent summers working in a fishing cannery in Bristol Bay. Not long after graduation, he moved to Alaska full
time and eventually began commercial fishing with his three brothers
on their boat, F/V Miss Dore.
After falling in love with Alaska, Mark raised his family in Wasilla,
where his three sons, Grant, Blake and Bryce, fished the same pristine

10 real food spring 2019

waters. The boys literally grew up on the boat, and as soon as they
were old enough to safely work, they became deckhands on the F/V
Surrender. In 2011, the eldest son, Grant, moved to Minnesota to
attend Augsburg College. Grant quickly took to the Midwestern way
of life, but missed the abundance of fresh sockeye salmon he was
accustomed to at home. After noticing a lack of reliable wild sockeye
salmon in local Minnesota grocery stores, Grant began bringing back
hundreds of pounds of sockeye salmon fillets to share with friends
and family in Minnesota. As time went on, Grant was surprised to
learn just how much Minnesotans loved buying the “red gold” directly
from the fishermen.
Just a few years later, in January 2016, Surrender Salmon, LLC
was born. The family-owned, fishermen-owned small business has
a goal of providing Alaska’s finest and freshest wild sockeye salmon

Lunds & Byerlys
meat and seafood

to the people of Minnesota while putting a face to the source of your
salmon. With Surrender Salmon, you can truly know your fishermen
and know exactly where your food is coming from.
Each summer, the Nivers fly out to Bristol Bay and spend the
entire summer harvesting wild salmon during the peak sockeye
season, which ensures it’s available for you year-round. Surrender
Salmon is wild caught, which means the salmon mature at a natural
pace and swim freely in the waters of Bristol Bay. Every sustainably
caught sockeye salmon is handpicked by the Niver family. It’s then
bled to eliminate blood and natural bacteria from the salmon, and
immediately refrigerated using a special sea water refrigeration
system onboard the F/V Surrender until they reach shore. Then it’s
flash frozen, which locks in the ocean-fresh taste and authentic wild
sockeye salmon color.
Surrender Salmon’s sockeye salmon has been embraced by customers due to its incredibly rich flavor, firm texture and distinctive
deep red color. The superior flavor comes from the salmon feeding
on a natural diet of marine organisms and the texture comes from
the annual migrations in the cold north Pacific Ocean. Not only does
the salmon taste good, but it’s also good for you. It’s low in saturated
fat and high in heart-healthy Omega-3 oils, which makes it a healthy,
delicious option and a staple protein choice for many.
Another reason we love our partnership with Surrender Salmon is
that charitable giving and community involvement are at the foundation of the business. As a local, family-owned company, it is dedicated
to giving back to the communities in which the Nivers live and serve.
And that often means sharing the salmon with others, like donating
hundreds of salmon meals to Open Arms of Minnesota or sponsoring
events for the Parkinson’s Foundation Minnesota.
We’re proud to partner with this wonderful company to provide
you with the best salmon possible. Stop by our meat and seafood
department to try Surrender Salmon for yourself! 

Surrender Salmon is a local, family-owned business operated by
Blake, Mark, Grant and Bryce Niver.

PHOTOS COURTESY SURRENDER SALMON

Every sustainably caught sockeye salmon
is handpicked by the Niver family.

Turn to the next page for some delicious salmon recipes >>
LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 11

Lunds & Byerlys
meat and seafood

Salmon with Raspberry
Chipotle Glaze
MAKES 2 SERVINGS

This irresistible salmon is perfect paired with
jasmine rice and sautéed snap peas.

1. For the salsa: In a medium bowl, stir together mango, red bell pepper, onion,
cilantro, lime juice, Cajun seasoning and salt. Cover and refrigerate 2 to 4 hours.
Bring to room temperature before serving.
2. For the salmon: Heat oven to 375°F. Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray or
line it with parchment paper.
3. Rinse salmon; pat dry with paper towels. Brush both sides of salmon with olive
oil. Rub Cajun seasoning and salt onto both sides of salmon.
4. Place salmon skin-side down on the baking sheet and bake for 12 to 15 minutes,
until the fish flakes easily with a fork.
5. Place salmon fillets on serving platter; spoon mango salsa over fish and serve
immediately.

12 real food spring 2019

1. Rinse salmon; pat dry with paper towels.
2. Heat nonstick skillet over medium-high heat
for 2 minutes. Season salmon with salt and pepper. Add oil to skillet; swirl to coat. Add salmon,
skin side down. Sear for 2 minutes per side.
Reduce heat to medium-low; cook until salmon
begins to flake with a fork, about 4 to 6 minutes.
3. Transfer salmon to a plate and cover with foil
to keep warm. Pour sauce in pan and simmer
1 to 2 minutes.
4. Return salmon to skillet; coat with sauce,
turning once or twice. Transfer salmon back to
plate. Add spinach to skillet and stir until wilted,
about 1 to 2 minutes. Divide spinach between
two serving plates and arrange salmon over
spinach. Garnish with fresh raspberries. 

The Good Acre is a state-of-the-art, nonprofit
food hub in Falcon Heights, Minnesota.

T

hree years ago we launched the Lunds & Byerlys Organic
Farming Grant to help support our local organic farming
community. In 2016 and 2017, the grants went to dairy farmers transitioning from conventional to organic farms. This year we are
awarding our grant to The Good Acre, a state-of-the-art, nonprofit
food hub in Falcon Heights. They opened their doors in 2015 with a
mission to “connect and strengthen farmers, food makers and communities through good food.”
The Good Acre was the brainchild of three women in the Pohlad
family—Lindsay, Allie and Sara. Their goal was to create a venue that
would assist in the development of a sustainable food system for the
Twin Cities region by working with retailers, employers, schools and
local independent farmers to provide training and good food to the
community. Our team toured The Good Acre in June 2018 and can
attest that they have exceeded
their goal. They offer a commercial kitchen, cooking classes, farmto-school training, grower education and wholesale fresh produce.
It’s an impressive accomplishment
in just three years!
More than 20 diverse farms
across the Twin Cities supply
produce to The Good Acre. In
return, The Good Acre offers
farmers access to their facilities,
which are certified organic and
Ben Doherty and Erin Johnson,
food safe, where they can deliver,
Open Hands Farm owners
wash, aggregate and pack their

produce for delivery. A large portion of the produce collected at The
Good Acre goes to Twin Cities school districts. We love how this provides children with locally grown fresh produce for school lunches.
This year our Lunds & Byerlys Organic Farming Grant will help
support two produce farms that partner with The Good Acre—Seed
to Seed Organic Farm in Balsam Lake, Wisconsin, and Open Hands
Organic Farm in Northfield, Minnesota. Through The Good Acre
partnership and our grant, the farms will supply organic produce to
four middle schools in the Robbinsdale school district. Typically, it is
difficult for the schools to purchase organic produce because of the
higher cost, but our grant money will be applied to help The Good
Acre sell the produce to the schools at a discounted rate.
As part of our partnership with The Good Acre, we also developed
some delicious, kid-friendly recipes that feature the farms’ organic
carrots and Brussels sprouts. These recipes were served at the middle
schools! We also had the opportunity to visit the schools and educate
the kids on the importance of local, organic and fresh produce.
For more information on The Good Acre, visit TheGoodAcre.org.



Ariel Pressman,
Seed to Seed Farm owner

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13

Lunds & Byerlys
what’s in store

L&B SEASONED PRETZELS
Take your snacking up a notch with our new L&B Seasoned
Pretzels. We combine crispy, crunchy pretzel nuggets with a
buttery, seasoned coating that is utterly addictive. Whether you
like it savory, spicy or more traditional, we have a flavor to fit your
tastes. Our signature flavors include traditional, movie butter,
dill ranch, taco, sweet and smoky, firecracker and malt vinegar.

Tip: Serve our seasoned pretzels alongside sandwiches and
wraps, as a crunchy topping on soup and chili, or paired with
a cold beverage.

CHOCOLOVE
RUBY CACAO BAR
In the world of chocolate, ruby is the newest, most extraordinary
discovery in 80 years. Chocolove’s new ruby cacao bar is expertly crafted
from the ruby cacao bean, which results in a beautiful, natural pink color.

Did you know? The Chocolove ruby cacao bar has an intense fruity
flavor with fresh, sour notes.

Tip: Pair the zesty green herb sauce with lamb, add the kick’n curry
mole to coconut milk for a quick curry, stir the super kale pesto into
hummus, and try the smoky red mustard with fries or pretzels.

14 real food spring 2019

Lunds & Byerlys
what’s in store

SARTORI PARMESAN BAGS
Sartori begins with wheels of their Classic Parmesan cheese, which they shave
into thick ribbons, carve into perfect shreds and delicately grate into fluffy
mounds. No matter how you slice it, the sweet, mellow, nutty flavored cheese
is perfect sprinkled on your favorite dish.

Did you know? Parmesan is an incredibly versatile cheese that can
accompany a wide variety of dishes. If you’re looking for the perfect beverage
pairing, try Chianti, Madeira and Beaujolais wines. If you’re interested in beer,
go with nut brown ales, porters and lagers.

SUCKERPUNCH
GOURMET
BLOODY MARY
MIXES AND
PICKLES
SuckerPunch believes eating and
drinking should be packed with flavor,
which is why their Bloody Mary mixes
and pickles are crafted using only
the finest ingredients and unique
combinations of bold spices and flavors.

Did you know? SuckerPunch’s
Bloody Mary Mix is much more than a
mixer. Drink it as a vegetable juice, use
it as a marinade for your favorite meat,
or blend it into sauces for delicious flavor.

L&B COLD
PRESS COFFEES
Our locally made cold press coffee
is carefully crafted from the finest
premium coffee beans and water.
That’s it! Each can is free of additives
and preservatives, which ensures
you get the best-tasting, pure coffee.
Try all three flavors: original, salted
caramel and mocha.

Tip: For a fun twist, combine the
salted caramel and mocha flavors for a
heavenly, highly caffeinated treat. Yum!

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15

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ingredient

Green with Envy
With avocados’ rich nutrients and versatility,
there’s no sign their popularity will wane
BY LIANNA MATT

S

AVOCADOS DENIRA - FOTOLIA.COM

ince the early 2000s, avocado consumption per capita has tripled,
according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. After all, you can
do so much with them, whether it’s grilling, stuffing, battering,
frying, or adding them atop other dishes. The avocado fever might seem
sudden, but trust us—it’s been a long time coming.
Even though Americans were aware of avocados by the 1700s, they
didn’t gain popularity until the 20th century. Marketing, the creation of
the production-friendly Hass avocado, and loosened import regulations
helped pave the way, but the scientific research that made it a “super
food” catapulted the fruit into the spotlight.
The FDA serving size for an avocado is 50 grams, or about a quarter
of an avocado. In that portion, you have 1 gram of protein, 3.4 grams of
fiber, 242 milligrams of potassium (which all neural pathways use), more
than a dozen vitamins and antioxidants, and plenty of monounsaturated
fat. This “good fat” helps you absorb nutrients that might otherwise pass
through your system.
With their high moisture content, creamy texture and subtle flavor,
avocados can act as substitutes for butter, shortening, mayonnaise,
eggs, cream cheese, canola or olive oil, and even as the base for
smoothies or ice creams.
When you use avocados as a substitute for items such as butter or
shortening, mash them and substitute on a one-to-one ratio; oven temperatures reduce by 25 percent, and the baking time increases. For quick
bread or muffin recipes especially, avocados make the baked goods softer
and less crumbly. (Keep in mind avocados can also cause the dough to
rise and brown quickly.) If you want to substitute avocados for eggs,
substitute 2 tablespoons to ¼ cup of mashed avocado per egg.
Whether you use avocados on their own or blended into a dessert like
these lemon sparkler cookies (see recipe right), you might just find it to
be the perfect, filling addition you needed in your life.

California Avocado replaces half of the butter in
these festive cookies that have a citrus “spark.”
1. Combine 2 cups all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon
baking soda and ½ teaspoon salt in a bowl;
set aside.
2. Place 6 tablespoons butter and 1/3 cup
mashed ripe, fresh California Avocado into the
bowl of a stand mixer and beat until smooth.
Add 1 cup sugar and the zest only of 2 lemons
and beat until light and fluffy. Add 1 egg, mixing
well, then add 1 teaspoon lemon extract and
¼ cup lemon juice. Add the flour mixture and
mix until just combined, scraping the sides of the
bowl. Refrigerate the dough for 1 hour.
3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking
sheets with parchment paper. Using a tablespoon
to measure, scoop the dough (it will be sticky) into
balls. Roll each ball into sanding sugars, covering the entire ball. Place the sugar-coated dough
balls on the prepared baking sheets spacing
2 inches apart. Slightly flatten each ball.
4. Bake the cookies for about 8 to 10 minutes
until the edges are set but middles are still soft
to the touch. Let cool on baking sheet for 2 to
3 minutes before transferring to cooling racks
to cool completely. 

TIPS FOR WORKING WITH AVOCADOS
• Test for ripeness by gently pressing the peel; it should
give slightly without being squishy. With most avocados,
including Hass, the darker the skins, the better.
• Only refrigerate avocados if you want
to slow down ripening. If you want them
to ripen faster, place them in a paper
bag with an apple or a banana.
• Once cut, to delay browning,
squirt lemon juice on it and put
it in a sealed container or cover
with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

spring 2019 real food 17

healthy
habits

Finding
A Better
Balance

Expert advice on managing diabetes
and creating healthy lifestyles
BY ANNA BJORLIN
sizes to allow people the freedom to eat the foods they enjoy.”
A general recommendation for a diabetic-friendly diet is to
strive for three to four servings of carb-rich foods per meal.
“A serving can equal an 8-ounce glass of milk, a 1-ounce slice
of bread, 1/3 cup of noodles or rice, or a small piece of fruit,”
says Zeratsky. “Each serving has about 15 grams of carbs, and
you want each meal to have around 45-60 grams total. So if
you want to have more noodles, skip that piece of bread.”
Whether you have diabetes yourself, share meals with
someone who does, or are simply interested in practicing
good habits to prevent the onset of type 2 diabetes, there are
several steps you can take to optimize your diet and lifestyle.
1. PRACTICE THE PLATE METHOD: According to Zeratsky, your
plate should be half fruits and vegetables and include some
protein and a measured portion of something starchy. “For
example, if you go to a picnic and there’s hamburgers, corn on
the cob and potato salad, the balance of that meal is heavier
on starchier food, so you have to figure out how to balance
it,” explains Zeratsky. “Maybe you choose to have a smaller
portion of potato salad, and then supplement your meal with
a lettuce salad or some carrot sticks to fill you up. Or forgo
the bun and have an open-face burger so you don’t send your
blood sugar too high. It’s all about flexibility and striving to
find what fits both your diet and personal preferences.”
2. CREATE HEALTHY PAIRINGS: Try pairing healthy carbs
(fruits, veggies, whole grains) with other diabetic-friendly
foods such as a leaner type of protein (meat, fish, eggs) for a
double dose of nutrients. “Those kinds of duos help manage
your blood glucose levels so you feel better, and more full as
well, because they take longer to break down,” says Zeratsky.
“Another option might be plant-based like soy, beans or
lentils—those choices especially have both healthy carbs and
leaner proteins, so they’re great.”

18 real food spring 2019

BALANCE ADRIAN_ILIE825 - FOTOLIA.COM YOGURT ANAUMENKO - FOTOLIA.COM

A

ccording to the American Diabetes Association, more
than 30 million Americans have diabetes, and most have
type 2 diabetes, a condition developed over time that
affects the way the body processes glucose (or blood sugar).
“When someone is first diagnosed, the most common
question I hear is ‘Do I have to be on a special diet?’ and
the answer, really, is no,” says Katherine Zeratsky, a registered dietitian nutritionist at the Mayo Clinic in Rochester,
Minnesota. “It’s not about unique foods and diets, but rather
healthy portion control and a good balance of food groups.”
In fact, one of the biggest misconceptions about diabetes is
the belief that diabetics are required to cut out certain foods
in order to achieve a specifically low-carb diet. “Foods that
have carbs are nutritious and certainly okay for people with
diabetes to eat,” explains Zeratsky. “It’s the same for any food,
whether a carb, protein or fat: We’re looking for a better overall
balance. Too much of anything isn’t healthy, so it’s just a matter of finding the right combination of food groups and portion

3. MAKE AN EFFORT TO MOVE: Diet may be key when it
comes to managing diabetes, but it’s not the only aspect.
“Moving is the natural way to bring down blood sugar, which
is essentially energy. So if you’re moving, you’re using it,” says
Zeratsky. “Not everyone loves exercise, but just going for a
walk after a meal, cleaning your house or turning on the music
and dancing can really aid in the process.”
4. FIND A SUPPORT SYSTEM: Changing your lifestyle is
never easy, so find someone to help you through the process.
“Creating new habits like sticking to a healthier diet and
getting more exercise isn’t an easy thing to do when we’re all
so busy and rushed, and there are so many tempting foods
out there,” says Zeratsky. “But having someone to support
you, to share a healthy meal, encourage you to go for a walk
or just help reinforce your efforts to choose more wholesome
foods, can make all the difference in the world.”

MAKE SMART FOOD SWAPS With some key food
substitutions, you might not find yourself missing your
go-to meals as much as you think—after all, you’re still
eating them. They’re just a little different now.
• Trade in your sweetened breakfast cereal for mixedgrain cereals like unsweetened bran flakes and include a
bit of fruit or milk to add some healthy carbs and protein.
• Swap out sweetened yogurt with plain yogurt, and then
sweeten it yourself with some fruit. And if possible, opt
for Greek yogurt, which has more protein and also tends
to be more flavorful.
• Instead of white potatoes, pick sweet potatoes, which
are higher in fiber and protein and are also a great
source of iron and vitamins A and C.
• Try using quinoa in place of white rice because its
fiber and protein can help keep your blood sugar under
control. Plus, the super grain is packed with all nine
essential amino acids, a rarity categorizing it as a
complete protein food.
• Choose whole grains (think wheat, rye and oats) over
refined grains (such as white flour and cornmeal). Whole
grains have healthier carbs, which are found less often in
processed foods that contain additional added sugars.
Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns or before making any
major dietary changes.

These fruity little bites are the perfect treat to satisfy any
sweet tooth. The light and flaky phyllo shells have fewer
carbs than most other crusts, while the Greek yogurt is a
great substitute for whipped cream.
2/3 cup frozen raspberries
1 tablespoon strawberry fruit spread
1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract
5 frozen mini phyllo pastry shells, thawed
2 tablespoons 2% plain Greek yogurt
1. Combine the raspberries and fruit spread in a small
saucepan, place over medium-high heat, and cook 3 minutes or until the mixture has reduced to a scant 1/4 cup.
2. Remove from heat, and stir in extract. Allow to cool,
about 5 minutes.
3. Spoon equal amounts in each of the phyllo shells and
spoon about 1 teaspoon of yogurt over each shell.
NUTRITION

PHOTO AND RECIPE PRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE AMERICAN DIABETES ASSOCIATION

5. GET THE RIGHT ATTITUDE: If you’re diagnosed with
diabetes, don’t be discouraged. “People who develop type
2 diabetes tend to think to themselves, ‘That’s it; I have this
disease and it’s never going away,’” says Zeratsky. “But they
don’t realize there are always things you can do to improve
your health. Hopefully in the end it just makes you feel even
better than before and live the life you want to live.” 

the Italian Way
Dress pasta with clean and simple
fresh ingredients for true Italian flair
BY ERICA DE MANE

I

talians celebrate the rebirth of the land in spring by harvesting tiny dandelion leaves, shell peas, fava beans, artichokes, young garlic, asparagus and

lots of early herbs such as chives, mint, oregano, little basil leaves and parsley.
When fashioning a pasta dish with spring produce, I use the Italian approach
and keep it clean. My aim is to blend one or two ingredients, say, artichokes and
prosciutto, with maybe one herb, like basil or mint, and work the flavors gently,
letting each ingredient shine.
When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re highlighting a seasonal vegetable, you want to use it to create
what Italians call a condimento, or a condiment for the pasta. That is where the
vegetable and its cooking juices become one with the pasta. I often do this by
giving the pasta and the sauce a final toss in the pan, adding a little more olive
oil or butter and a splash of pasta cooking water to create a creamy emulsion.
Scattering fresh herbs on at the last minute can really wake things up. Using
the recipes and tips here, and also improvising with vegetable, sauce and pasta
pairings, you can create spring pasta dishes with true Italian flair.

Pasta topped with a dollop of ricotta is one of my all-time favorites.
Here I make a quick sauce for it with tiny first-of-the-season zucchini,
garlic, wine and mint. The ricotta gets mixed in at the table.
For the Ricotta
1½ cups whole milk ricotta, sheep’s milk if available
zest from 2 lemons
1 teaspoon sugar
3 big scrapings of nutmeg
pinch of salt
10 spearmint leaves, chopped
For the Pasta
salt, for cooking water plus to taste
about 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 spring onion, diced, using all of the tender green stem
10 tiny, thin spring zucchini (or about 4 bigger ones), cut into rounds
2 fresh spring garlic cloves, sliced
black pepper, to taste
3 big scrapings of fresh nutmeg or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 pound penne
¼ cup white wine
squeeze of lemon juice
handful of spearmint leaves, lightly chopped
about 8 ounces pecorino Toscano or Sardo cheese, for topping
1. Mix all the ricotta ingredients together in a small bowl, adding a little warm water to loosen
and smooth them out.
2. Set up a pot of pasta cooking water and bring it to a boil, adding a generous amount of salt.
3. While the water is coming to a boil, get out a large skillet, one big enough to hold all the
zucchini and the pasta. Set it over medium heat and drizzle in about 2 tablespoons of olive
oil. When hot, add the onion and the zucchini. Sauté until the zucchini just starts to brown
at the edges, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, and season with black pepper, salt and the
nutmeg. Continue cooking until the zucchini is lightly browned and tender but still holding its
shape, 1 minute or so longer. Add the wine to the skillet and let it boil away, about 1 minute.
4. Drop the penne into the boiling water. When it’s al dente, about 10 to 12 minutes, drain it,
saving about ½ cup of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the zucchini and toss briefly over
low heat, adding the lemon juice, the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, and a little of the
cooking water to loosen the sauce. Pour it into a large serving bowl and scatter on the mint
and a few gratings of pecorino. Toss again gently.
5. Serve in bowls with a big spoonful of the ricotta on top and a little more grated pecorino,
if you desire.
Variation: Another classic Southern Italian dish is pasta tossed only with ricotta. To make
this, just toss your hot rigatoni (or any tube pasta) with the ricotta mixture, thinning it with
a little pasta cooking water. Top with grated pecorino or Parmigiano.

What is “generously salted” water? For 1 pound of pasta I generally use about

3½ quarts of water and about 2 teaspoons of salt. For pasta to be properly seasoned, the water
should taste a little salty. Plus, you need enough water so the pasta floats around freely,
cooking evenly and quickly. You can certainly use a little less water and less salt, but this is
what I do, and it’s in keeping with the traditional Italian way.

1. Place all the ingredients for the meatballs together in a mixing bowl.
Mix gently and quickly with your hands, just until everything is blended.
You don’t want it getting too compact; that’ll make your meatballs tough.
Form the mixture into ½-inch balls (the smaller the better for soup) and
lay them out on a flat plate. Refrigerate for about 1 hour to firm them up.
2. Set up a pot of pasta cooking water and bring it to a boil. Add a generous
amount of salt. Drop in the ditalini and cook al dente, about 8 minutes.
Drain well, and place in a bowl. Toss with a drizzle of olive oil to prevent
it from sticking together.
3. Pour the chicken broth into a large soup pot and bring it to a boil over
medium-high heat. Add the bay leaf and boil down for about 5 minutes,
just to concentrate the flavor. Turn the heat down a little and add the peas
and meatballs. Let simmer just until the peas are tender and the meatballs
are cooked through, about 4 minutes.
4. Add the ditalini to the broth, along with the lemon zest. Season with
black pepper. Simmer 1 minute longer to further blend the flavors. Check
for seasoning. Serve in large soup bowls topped with a big sprinkling of
Grana Padano. Garnish with the basil. If you prefer to serve the soup later,
you can gently reheat it.
Variation: If you happen to have fresh pea shoots, you can garnish each
bowl with a few of those instead of the basil.

spring 2019 real food 23

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

I use baby arugula when I don’t have my own wild Mediterranean arugula, which is
more pungent. I suggest it as a good substitution in this recipe. I like treating young
arugula as a spring herb, adding it at the last minute to preserve its freshness.
For the Breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 cup dry breadcrumbs, preferably homemade, not too finely ground
big pinch of Aleppo pepper or a little ground cayenne
1 teaspoon sugar
salt, to taste
1½ pounds large shrimp (wild caught, if possible), peeled and deveined,
saving the shells
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
½ cup dry white wine
salt, to taste
2 large spring garlic cloves, thinly sliced
zest from 1 large lemon
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
black pepper
1 pound spaghetti
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 bunches wild or baby arugula, well stemmed (about 2 cups)
1. To make the breadcrumbs, heat the olive oil in a small sauté pan over medium heat.
Add the breadcrumbs, the Aleppo or cayenne, and the sugar, and season with salt.
Heat, stirring occasionally, until the breadcrumbs are lightly golden and crisp, about
2 minutes. Put them in a small bowl and set aside.
2. To make a light shrimp broth, place the shrimp shells in a medium saucepan. Drizzle
them with about 1 tablespoon of olive oil and turn the heat to medium. Let the shells
sauté until they turn pink, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and let it bubble for about
1 minute. Add 1 cup of warm water and a big pinch of salt. Bring everything to a boil, and
then turn the heat down a notch and let everything simmer at a low bubble, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Strain the broth and set it aside. You should have about ¾ cup.
3. Set up a large pot of pasta cooking water. Add a generous amount of salt and bring
it to a boil. Add the spaghetti.
4. Set a large skillet over high heat. When it’s hot, add about 1 tablespoon olive oil.
Add the shrimp, spreading it out in one layer. Add the garlic. Sprinkle on the allspice
and the lemon zest, and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Sear the shrimp
on one side without moving it around too much, until you see that it’s turning pink at
the edges, about 2 minutes. Turn it over with tongs and briefly cook the other sides,
about 1 minute longer. Pour on the shrimp broth, and let it bubble for a few seconds.
Turn off the heat. Add the butter, letting it melt in.
5. When the spaghetti is al dente, about 8 to 10 minutes, drain it, and pour it into
a large serving bowl. Pour on the shrimp sauce. Add the arugula and the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Toss well. The heat from the pasta will gently wilt the
arugula. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt or black pepper if needed. Sprinkle
the top with about 1 tablespoon of the breadcrumbs, bringing the rest to the table.
Serve immediately.
Variation: You can use another tender spring green such as young dandelion or baby
spinach instead of the arugula.

24 real food spring 2019

Pasta Improv
When I make an improvisational
pasta, herbs and oil often
become the entire sauce. For a
pasta alle erbe, try tossing hot
penne or spaghetti with a tiny
bit of fresh spring garlic, good
olive oil, black pepper and a mix
of freshly chopped basil, mint,
chives, tarragon, marjoram,
parsley—or whatever fresh
herbs you have on hand or can
find at the market. For instance,
one of the first dishes I like to
make in spring is a simple
spaghetti tossed with baby
arugula, pecorino and good
olive oil. Whatever combination
you choose, you don’t need a
written recipe for these dishes;
it’s spring cooking at its simplest and most fragrant.
Here are some ideas that
embrace traditional pairings
and offer visual and tasty
delights for you to improvise
with your own favorite produce
and pasta.
Peas: Ditalini and tubetti, small
tubular shapes, are classic with
peas, but if you add cream or
cheese, spaghetti or tagliatelle
will allow the peas to cling
readily to the long strands.
Asparagus: Cut it on a bias and
toss it with penne or another
medium-length macaroni for
a perfect pairing. If you purée
the sauce, pappardelle is a
good choice.
Spinach and Other Soft Spring
Greens: Wilted greens should
wrap around pasta. I would pair
these ingredients with a medium
pasta such as cavatelli or cavatappi (corkscrews). If your sauce
is more rustic, maybe containing pancetta, try orecchiette or
conchigliette (small shells), so
the little chunks can get caught
in their hollows.
continued on page 26

DISHWARE ON PAGES 20, 25 AND 27 COURTESY THE FOUNDRY HOME GOODS

Spaghetti with Wild Arugula, Shrimp
and Sweet Breadcrumbs

SPAGHETTI WITH WILD ARUGULA,
SHRIMP AND SWEET BREADCRUMBS

spring 2019 real food 25

Pappardelle with Artichokes,
Prosciutto and Basil
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Using baby artichokes, which have no chokes to worry about, makes this elegant dish
quick to come together. For a vegetarian version, just leave out the prosciutto and replace
the chicken broth with vegetable broth or a little water.
For the Artichokes
juice and grated zest from 1 lemon
2 dozen baby artichokes (a few more if they’re really small)
2½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 spring onion, finely diced
1 large spring garlic clove, thinly sliced
½ cup dry vermouth
¾ cup chicken broth, homemade or good quality store bought
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
For the Pasta
salt, for pasta cooking water
1 pound pappardelle
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
3 very thin slices prosciutto di Parma or San Danielle, cut into thin strips
8 ounces Parmigiano Reggiano
15 basil leaves, cut into chiffonade
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
⅓ cup lightly toasted pine nuts (optional; See Cook’s Note)
1. Set up a big bowl of cold water and add the lemon juice (set aside zest). Remove
the tough outer leaves of the artichokes and trim the tops of what remains. Quarter
the artichokes lengthwise and drop them into the lemon water. This will help prevent
them from darkening.
2. Choose a sauté pan big enough to hold all the artichokes and heat over medium
heat. Add 2½ tablespoons olive oil. Scoop the artichokes from the lemon water, shake
off any excess liquid, and put them in the pan. Sauté to coat them in the oil, about
1 minute. Add the onion and sauté 1 minute longer. Add the garlic and cook it just until
it gives off its aroma. Add the vermouth and let it bubble for about 30 seconds. Add
the chicken broth, partially cover the pan, and simmer the artichokes until they’re
just tender when poked with a knife, about 7 or 8 minutes. Season with salt, black
pepper and the lemon zest.
3. Set up a pot of pasta cooking water and add a generous amount of salt. Drop in
the pappardelle. When the pasta is tender, about 3 to 4 minutes for fresh pasta, drain
it, saving a little of the pasta cooking water, and tip it into a big serving bowl. Add
the butter and 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Toss gently. Add the artichokes and all their
cooking juices, the prosciutto, about 1 tablespoon of grated Parmigiano, the basil and
a few more grindings of black pepper. Toss, adding a bit of the pasta water to loosen
the sauce if needed. Check for seasoning. Scatter the pine nuts on top, if you’re using
them. Serve hot, bringing the rest of the Parmigiano to the table.
Cook’s Note: To toast pine nuts, preheat the oven to 400°F. Spread nuts on a sheet
pan and place in the oven. Roast until they’re just turning golden, about 6 minutes.
Keep an eye on them—nuts can go from toasted to burned very quickly.
Variation: You can make this with asparagus instead of artichokes. Just blanch the
spears, cut them at an angle, and add them to the pan when you would have added
the artichokes. The cooking time will shorten to only several minutes, and you won’t
need the chicken broth.
26 real food spring 2019

Pasta Improv, continued from page 24

Artichokes: Since they usually
get cut into long, thin pieces,
try preparing them with a medium long pasta such as penne,
casarecce or gemelli. If your
sauce has some body to it,
containing cream or a wineand-olive-oil emulsion for
instance, pappardelle or
tagliatelle will work well.
Herbs: A sauce of abundant
spring herbs, chopped and
mixed with olive oil, looks and
tastes great tossed with a
long pasta such as spaghetti
or tagliatelle.
Pesto: Classic Genoese pesto
is served with trofie, a regional
twisted pasta, but other medium-size twisty shapes such as
gemelli and fusilli are great with
any kind of pesto. You want a
shape that will allow the pesto
to melt into its curves. In the
spring, I like using mint and
parsley in my pesto in place
of basil.
Creamy Sauces: Sauces made
with cream or from puréed
vegetables are perfect with
long straight pastas such as
pappardelle, but I also like
them with long twisted or
ruffly shapes like fusilli lunghi
or lasagnette.
Ragu: Chunky ragus are wonderful with sturdy rigatoni or
ziti. I also love a chunky meat
sauce with a shell pasta such
as conchiglie or lumache, where
the little pieces get caught in
the hollows. A more refined
ragu, such as a Bolognese,
is classically matched with
tagliatelle. In Sicily, spring lamb
or pork ragus are often tossed
with small pasta shapes such
as anelletti or penne corte.
Many such pasta and sauce
pairings are the products of
regional tradition.

1. Set a large stew pot with a lid over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and the pancetta. Let the pancetta crisp up, about
4 minutes. Add the pork and beef and sauté until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and garlic. Season with salt and
black pepper, to taste, and add the cinnamon, nutmeg and cayenne. Sauté about another minute to blend all the flavors. Add the bay
leaf and the red wine and let the wine bubble for about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth and tomatoes and bring to a boil.
2. Turn the heat to low and cover the pan. Let simmer until the meat is tender and the sauce has thickened, about 1½ hours. In the
final 10 minutes of cooking, add the peas and marjoram or oregano. Let the sauce cool for a few minutes, then add ¾ cup of the
caciocavallo, mixing it in.
3. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
4. Put up a pot of pasta cooking water. Add a generous amount of salt and bring it to a boil. Add the anelletti and cook it to al dente,
about 7 to 9 minutes, maybe a little firmer than usual, since it’s going to be baked. Drain the anelletti and add it to the sauce, giving
it a good stir.
5. Coat the inside of a large baking dish with olive oil—round is traditional, but a 12x10-inch rectangular or an 11-inch oval is fine—and
pour in the pasta.
6. Mix the remaining caciocavallo with the breadcrumbs, seasoning it with a little salt, black pepper and the sugar. Sprinkle this over
the top of the pasta. Drizzle it with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.
7. Bake, uncovered, in the preheated oven until it is bubbling at the edges and the top is browned, about 20 minutes. Let the pasta
rest for about 10 minutes before serving.

NUTRITION

Variation: You can mix up the meat here. Use all-beef if you like, or a mix of beef and veal. Ground lamb also makes a great
springtime ragu. 

f there is one vegetable that sings of spring, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s asparagus. Once the conditions are right, asparagus spears pop up
from the ground almost overnight, full of energy and life. We are lucky that asparagus from warmer climes is avail-

able most of the year, but spring is when domestic asparagus is in season and its journey to us is shorter and sweeter.
Asparagus is effortlessly beautiful, and its long and slender shape lends itself to many classic presentations.
Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also incredibly easy to work with, requiring very little time to prepare or cook. It can take on a French accent if you
peel the stems, poach it and serve it with hollandaise. But it can also top a pizza or join in your favorite pasta dish.
In recent years, roasting and grilling have become go-to methods for cooking asparagus. Both give the vegetable a
hint of char and caramelization and keep the spears firm. Celebrate spring and dig into a few fun asparagus dishes.

spring 2019 real food 31

32 real food spring 2019

Blanched Asparagus
and Three Dipping
Sauces
MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Choices, choices. Here you have three
appealing sauces to choose from or you
can make them all. The hollandaise is a
classic made from egg yolks and warm
butter—it’s just made easier with the
help of a blender. The herby, garlicky
chimichurri has a little spice and a tangy
vinegar kick. Enjoy a creamy puree of
roasted peppers and nuts in the romesco,
a Spanish sauce that makes everything it
touches better.
Make your sauces before blanching
the asparagus since that only takes a few
minutes. Hollandaise is best eaten the
same day, while the other two can be
refrigerated, covered, for up to 3 days. If
preferred, you can simply pile the asparagus on platters and drizzle with sauces.
2 pounds asparagus
1. To blanch asparagus, bring a large pot
of salted water to a boil. Set up two large
bowls of ice water. Trim the tough bottoms
from the asparagus, and if desired, peel
the stems starting 1 inch below the tips.
Drop the asparagus into boiling water
for 1 minute, then take out with tongs
and drop in the ice water to stop the
cooking. When completely cold, transfer to a colander, then pat dry before
serving.
Cook’s Note: Each dip is enough for
one 2-pound bunch of asparagus.
If you want to serve multiple dips, adjust
amount of asparagus accordingly.

1. Place egg yolks, lemon juice, dill, salt and hot sauce into the blender and secure
the lid. Turn the machine on at low speed, and then increase to high. Blend for about
30 seconds. Remove the plug from the lid of the blender and slowly drizzle the
melted butter through the opening. The sauce should thicken and look like mayonnaise. Blend for a few more seconds. Scrape the warm sauce into a medium bowl
or individual bowls for dipping.

1. Mix the shallot, garlic, salt, red pepper flakes, cilantro, parsley and oregano in
a medium bowl. Stir in the red wine vinegar and olive oil and let stand for about
15 minutes. Stir well before serving.
Cook’s Note: If desired, you can also make this in a food processor. Place the
shallot, chopped garlic, salt, red pepper flakes, cilantro, parsley and oregano in
a food processor bowl and pulse until minced. Then add the oil and vinegar and
pulse to mix—but don’t puree.

1. Pour the olive oil in a medium skillet and place it over medium heat. When hot,
add the bread cubes and turn every few minutes as the bread turns golden, about
2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bread cubes to a blender container.
2. Add the almonds to the hot oil and stir until they turn golden brown, about 2
minutes. Transfer the almonds to the blender container and let the oil cool in the
pan before pouring into the blender container. Add the roasted peppers, garlic,
paprika, red pepper flakes, salt and sherry vinegar, secure the lid, and hold it closed
with a folded kitchen towel as you blend until smooth.

spring 2019 real food 33

ASPARAGUS AND HAM QUICHE

34 real food spring 2019

Creamy Asparagus
Soup with Tarragon

Asparagus and Ham Quiche

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

This classic quiche can fit into any meal of your day from breakfast or brunch
right through dinner. You have the option to make the pastry from scratch or use
purchased refrigerated pie crust or frozen deep dish crust to save time.

This soup may be the dish that convinces even
a skeptic to love asparagus. The creamy, smooth
soup is pale green and has a hint of tanginess
from the sour cream. The tender tips float on
top, showing off their delicate buds. Thick and
flavorful, all this soup needs is a chunk of crusty
bread to make a fabulous meal.

2 pounds asparagus
2 tablespoons butter
1 large onion
2 tablespoons white rice
3 cups vegetable stock
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups packed baby spinach, chopped
2 cups sour cream
2 tablespoons fresh tarragon,
plus more for garnish
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Set up a steamer for the asparagus tips. Trim
the hard bottoms from the asparagus. Cut the
tips from the asparagus and reserve. Chop the
stems in ½-inch pieces and reserve separately.
2. In a soup pot, melt the butter over medium
heat and sauté the onion until tender and clear.
Add chopped asparagus stems (not tips), rice,
stock and salt. Simmer for 15 minutes, until rice
is very soft. Stir in the spinach and cover for
1 minute, just to wilt.
3. Steam the asparagus tips over simmering
water for about 2 minutes. Reserve.
4. Transfer the hot soup to a blender or food
processor and secure the lid. Place a folded
towel over the top of the container and be
careful of the hot liquids as you puree. When
the mixture is smooth, add the sour cream and
process to mix. Return to pan and add tarragon
and pepper, and taste for seasoning.
5. Serve each bowl with asparagus tips and
fresh tarragon sprigs on top.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

For the Crust
1 cup unbleached flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cold
1 teaspoon vinegar
4 tablespoons ice water, approximately
flour, for counter
1/2 bunch asparagus (about 8 average spears), trimmed
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 small yellow onion, chopped
6 ounces cooked ham, chopped
6 large eggs, whisked
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 cup shredded Jarlsberg or other Swiss cheese (about 3 ounces), divided
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dried dill
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. To Make the Crust: In a large bowl, whisk the flour and salt. Using the large
holes on a grater, grate the butter into the mix, tossing every few strokes to coat
the bits of butter with flour. In a measuring cup, whisk the vinegar and ice water.
Stir gently into the flour mixture and use your hands to mix and form a ball. If
needed, add a little bit more water. Form into a disk and roll out on a counter
sprinkled with a little flour. Put in pie pan and flute the edges. Cover with foil
and chill until ready to use. If using a prepared refrigerated crust, fit into pie pan
and flute the edges, and chill until the filling is ready to go in.
2. Trim the tough bases from the asparagus and discard, then cut the tips into
3-inch pieces. Chop the remaining stems into thin pieces and reserve. In a large
skillet, melt the butter over medium heat, then add the onion. Lower heat and
cook slowly. When onions are very soft and getting golden, about 10 minutes,
stir in the chopped stems (not tips) and stir until bright green. Remove from
heat to cool and stir in the chopped ham.
3. Preheat oven to 400°F. Fill the chilled pie crust with dried beans or pie weights
and bake for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and lower the heat to 375°F.
4. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, ½ cup of the shredded
cheese, salt, dill and pepper. Stir in the cooled onion mixture, then spread in
the pie crust. Top with remaining ½ cup cheese, then arrange asparagus tips in
a spoke design with the tips in the center. Bake for about 50 minutes.
5. When the top is puffed and golden, cool slightly on a rack and serve warm.
Quiche can be refrigerated for up to 4 days, tightly covered. To reheat, place
the quiche in a 300°F oven for about 20 minutes, or microwave individual slices
for 1 to 2 minutes on high.
Cook’s Note: A purchased refrigerated crust may brown more quickly, so
check it halfway through the baking time and cover with foil if it is browning
too quickly.

For the Crust
2 cups unbleached flour
2 cups white whole-wheat flour, or regular whole-wheat flour
2 teaspoons quick yeast
1 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups hot water
2 teaspoons sugar or honey
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
For the Pesto and Topping
1 bunch asparagus (about 16 average spears), divided
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 cup fresh basil leaf
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup pine nuts
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
8 ounces brie
1 cup grape tomatoes, halved
1. For the Crust: In a stand mixer or large bowl, mix the unbleached and whole-wheat
flours, yeast and salt. Warm the water to 110°F to 115°F and add the sugar or honey and
oil to the water. Mix the water into the flour mixture, kneading until the dough comes
away from the bowl. It should be soft and pliable but not overly sticky. If it is sticking
to your fingers, add a little more flour. Knead for a few minutes, then place the dough
in an oiled bowl, cover and place near but not on the stove. Let rise for at least 1 hour.
2. While the dough rises, preheat the oven to 450°F. For pre-baked crusts, preheat
to 400°F.
3. For the Pesto and Topping: Cut 2-inch long sections off the tips of the asparagus and
reserve. Slice the coarse bases from the stems, leaving you with the central sections of
the stalks. Set up to steam the stalks. Steam for about 3 minutes, until tender. Transfer
the stalks to a food processor bowl and let cool to room temperature. Add the garlic,
basil, Parmesan, pine nuts and salt and process to a smooth puree, scraping down as
needed. Add the olive oil and process until very smooth. Reserve.
4. Remove the rind from the brie and cut the cheese in small pieces; it will be soft and
may not divide neatly. Reserve.
5. To make pizza, lightly oil two 14-inch wide sheet pans, preferably without a rim. Divide
the dough in 2 pieces and form each into a disk. Place one disk on the pan and press
it out to a circle that reaches the edges of the pan. Dollop the asparagus puree over
the crusts and gently smooth out to cover the pizza. Top with brie, then arrange the
halved tomatoes and asparagus tips over the cheese, pressing down lightly. Bake the
pizzas for 15 to 20 minutes, reversing the pans at the halfway point for even baking.
Slide the pizza onto a cutting board and cut in 8 slices per pizza. Serve hot.
Cook’s Note: If you prefer, you can use two 14-inch prebaked pizza crusts to save time.
Top and bake for 12 to 15 minutes.

36 real food spring 2019

ASPARAGUS TIPS
Spear Size: You will see fat
spears about the size of a
Sharpie marker and you’ll
come across spears as thin
as a pencil. Despite some old
myths, neither thin nor thick
is superior in flavor. Generally,
as expected, the thinner ones
need a little less cooking time.
If you are looking for asparagus to serve as finger food
with a sauce, look for
fatter spears. If you like, you
can peel the fat spears, starting an inch from the pointed
tip and going down to the
tough bottom. It’s optional but
it looks nice and allows you to
serve a bit more of the stems.
Asparagus Has Zones: The
tips should always be treated
differently than the stems.
Trim off the bottom couple of
inches, which are tough, and
then lop off the tips in the
desired lengths. The stems
are full of flavor and just take
a minute longer to cook than
the tender tips. In most cases,
you’ll save the tips to add at
the end of a recipe to show
them off.
Don’t Overcook: Unless you
plan to puree it, don’t overcook asparagus. Mushy and
limp are not the words you
want to come to mind when
you serve a simple side of
asparagus with butter, so
roast, steam or blanch it just
enough to get to crisp-tender.

SPEAR DMITRI STALNUHHIN - FOTOLIA.COM

Asparagus is a perfect vegetable for topping a pizza because it cooks quickly and looks
beautiful. In this preparation, you’ll use those flavorful stems as the base for a creamy,
basil-laced puree that serves as the sauce for the pizza. That way you are sure to have
asparagus flavor in every bite with a lush melt of brie over it all. You have the option to
use prebaked crusts and skip mixing and shaping your own.

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Trim the tough bases from the asparagus
and discard, and place the spears on a sheet pan. Add the pepper slivers, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Toss to coat and roast for
10 to 15 minutes until browned and slightly shriveled. Keep warm until
the scallops are ready.
2. In a cup, whisk the wine and zest and reserve. Pat the scallops dry with
paper towels. Mix the flour and paprika in a medium bowl and dip the
scallops in the flour mixture, then place on a plate. Have another plate
ready to hold the seared scallops.
3. Place a large cast iron or stainless steel skillet over medium high heat
and let it heat for about 1 minute until it is hot. Add the 1 tablespoon olive
oil and half of the butter and swirl to coat the pan. Place the scallops in
the pan and sear 2 to 3 minutes undisturbed (depending on size), until
the edges look browned and start to crack. Turn over the scallops, reduce
the heat to medium and cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes, until firm
when pressed with a fingertip. Transfer to a plate and cover loosely with
a pot lid to keep warm.
4. To the same pan, add the remaining ½ tablespoon butter and shallots
and stir, scraping up any browned bits. Reduce the heat to low and cook
for 2 to 3 minutes, until the shallots are softened. Add the wine mixture
and increase the heat to bring to a boil, stir and cook until the pan is nearly
dry. Add the cream and stir, boiling until thickened. Stir in the parsley and
remove pan from the heat. Serve the asparagus with the scallops and
sauce on top. 

WRAP IT!
Wrap asparagus stems in prosciutto for a
savory, quick-and-easy bite. Use thicker spears
so they will not overcook in the time it takes to
crisp the meat.
Trim the bases from the asparagus and place
each spear on a slice of prosciutto at an angle
so that you can roll the spear and have the
prosciutto spiral up the length of it. Place on a
sheet pan, or for a crispier effect, on a baking
rack set on a baking sheet. Roast at 450°F for
5 minutes for crispy prosciutto.

Approachable family meals that make
everyone happy time and again
RECIPES BY JENNIFER SEGAL

BANANA PANCAKES
40 real food spring 2019

W

hen you are cooking night after night, you need some dishes in your playbook that are slam-dunk
recipes you enjoy making again and again—and that the people in your life will enjoy seeing atop

the table again and again. Cooking is fun and gratifying when recipes are simple to execute and as delicious
as promised, says chef and cookbook author Jennifer Segal. So with the expertise of a classically trained
professional chef and the practicality of a busy working mom, Segal created a blog called “Once Upon a Chef.”
In her new cookbook of the same name, she shares recipes that combine her skills as a chef with fresh and
accessible ingredients for family-friendly meals. Whether it’s an easy weeknight meal for busy parents or
singles and couples facing the usual dinner dilemma, Segal has created easy meals the whole family and
the chef in her will enjoy, such as those highlighted here. —Mary Subialka

Banana Pancakes
MAKES 12 (4-INCH) PANCAKES

Fluffy on the inside, crispy on the outside, and delicately flavored with bananas and vanilla—these are amazing pancakes. The recipe,
believe it or not, is adapted from Williams Sonoma’s “The Kid’s Cookbook,” so you know they’re simple to make. I like to top them
with a heap of fresh sliced bananas to dress them up and hint at what’s inside.
11/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
21/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 small, overripe banana (the browner, the better)
2 eggs
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
unsalted butter, for frying
vegetable oil, for frying
pure maple syrup and sliced bananas (optional),
for serving
1. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder
and salt.
2. In a medium bowl, mash the banana with a fork until almost
smooth. Whisk in the eggs. Add the milk and vanilla and whisk
until well blended. Pour the banana mixture and melted butter into the flour mixture. Fold the batter gently with a rubber
spatula until just blended; do not overmix. The batter should
be thick and a bit lumpy.

3. Set a griddle or nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot.
Put ½ tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon vegetable oil on the
griddle and swirl it around until the butter is melted. Using a
2-ounce ladle or ¼-cup dry measure, drop the batter onto the
griddle, spacing the pancakes about 2 inches apart. Cook until a
few holes form on the top of each pancake and the undersides
are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook
until the bottoms are golden brown and the tops are puffed,
1 to 2 minutes more. Using the spatula, transfer the pancakes
to a warm serving plate.
4. Wipe the griddle clean with paper towels, add more butter and oil, and repeat with the remaining batter. Serve the
pancakes while still hot, topped with maple syrup and sliced
bananas (if using).

Known in different countries by different names, the chopped salad is a Middle Eastern staple. I was first turned on to it back in the
’90s, when I was a student traveling around Israel, where the traditional “Israeli salad” is served at practically every meal, even breakfast. After having it at youth hostels, falafel stands and restaurants, I remember thinking to myself, “It’s a good thing I like this stuff!”
There are many variations of this salad, depending on the country and the cook, but the base is usually diced cucumbers and tomatoes.
This version is filled out with crisp bell peppers, chickpeas, feta and fresh mint.
6 tablespoons (3/8 cup or 90 mL) fresh
1 English cucumber, seeded
lemon juice, from 2 lemons
and diced
2 small garlic cloves, minced
1 (151/2-ounce) can chickpeas,
2 teaspoons sugar
drained and rinsed
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
4 scallions, white and green
1 teaspoon salt
parts, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup fresh chopped mint
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
6 ounces feta cheese, diced
1 pound grape tomatoes, halved
1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and diced
1. In a large bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, garlic, sugar, cumin, salt and
pepper. Slowly pour in the olive oil, whisking to emulsify. Add the tomatoes, bell
pepper, cucumber, chickpeas, scallions and mint and toss well. Add the feta and
toss gently to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Serve the
salad immediately at room temperature or chill for up to an hour.
Cook’s Note: To seed a cucumber, cut it in half lengthwise, and then use a small
spoon to scrape the seeds out.

42 real food spring 2019

Indoor S’mores
MAKES ABOUT 20 SQUARES

These bars taste just like the campfire classic, only taken up a notch
with a graham cracker crust, chocolate ganache filling and silky
meringue topping. Kids love them! The only time-consuming part
of the recipe is waiting for each layer to set before proceeding with
the next. I use the freezer to speed this process along. Just like real
s’mores, these bars are wonderfully gooey. I serve them on dessert
plates with forks or in cupcake liners with lots of napkins.
For the Crust
2 cups graham cracker crumbs, from about 16 whole
graham crackers
11/2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
For the Chocolate Ganache Filling
3/4 cup heavy cream
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
8 ounces milk chocolate, chopped
For the Marshmallow Meringue Topping
3 egg whites
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1. To make the crust: Set an oven rack in the middle position and
preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a 9-inch square baking pan with
heavy-duty aluminum foil, allowing 2 inches of overhang on all
sides. Spray with nonstick cooking spray.
2. In a medium bowl, using a fork, mix the graham cracker crumbs,
brown sugar and salt. Add the melted butter and mix until the
crumbs are evenly moistened. Press the crumbs evenly and firmly
into the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake for 10 minutes. Let cool
until set, about 15 minutes.
3. To make the Chocolate Ganache Filling: In a medium microwave-safe bowl, microwave the cream on high for 1 to 2 minutes,
or until boiling. Add the bittersweet and milk chocolates and
whisk until smooth. If the chocolate doesn’t melt completely,
place the bowl back in the microwave for 20 seconds and whisk
again. (Alternatively, bring the cream to a boil in a small saucepan on the stovetop; then take the pan off the heat and whisk
in the chocolates.)
4. Pour the warm chocolate filling evenly over the cooled crust.
Use an offset spatula or the back of a spoon to spread the mixture to the edges. Place in the freezer until the chocolate is set,
about 45 minutes.
5. To make the Marshmallow Meringue Topping: Set an oven
rack about 8 inches beneath the heating element and preheat
the broiler.
6. Set a heatproof medium bowl over a saucepan of simmering
water (the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water). Add
the egg whites and granulated sugar and whisk until the whites

are warm and foamy and the sugar is completely dissolved, about
3 minutes. (Rub a little of the mixture between your fingers to
make sure you don’t feel any grains of sugar.)
7. Transfer the egg white mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the whisk (or beaters). Add the vanilla and cream of
tartar and beat at medium-high speed (or high speed if using an
electric hand mixer) until stiff and glossy, 7 to 8 minutes. You’ll
know it’s ready when you pull the whisk out of the bowl and the
meringue peaks and droops over.
8. Mound the meringue on top of the cold chocolate filling, swirling it decoratively. Place the pan in the oven and broil until the
meringue is lightly toasted and browned at the tips, 1 to 2 minutes.
Keep a close eye on it so it doesn’t burn. Place the bars in the
freezer until completely cool, about 20 minutes.
9. Using the foil overhang, lift the bars out of the pan and onto
a cutting board. Cut into bars, running the knife under hot water
and wiping clean between slices. Serve smaller squares in cupcake liners with napkins, and larger squares on small dessert
plates with forks. Store leftover bars in an airtight container in
the refrigerator, leaving a little space between them so they don’t
stick, for up to 3 days.
Cook’s Notes:
• You might wonder if you can save time and replace the meringue
topping with store-bought marshmallows. I’ve tried it, so let me
save you the trial and error. While delicious toasted and eaten
immediately, store-bought marshmallows harden as soon as they
cool, making them a poor choice for baking. And the same goes
for store-bought marshmallow cream.
• For the most authentic s’mores taste, use Hershey bars for the
milk chocolate. I use five Hershey’s Milk Chocolate Bars (which is
just shy of 8 ounces) and a 4-ounce Ghirardelli bittersweet baking
bar for the chocolate ganache filling.
• These bars can be made up to 2 days ahead of time. After toasting the meringue, cover the unsliced bars with plastic wrap and
refrigerate. Wait to slice the bars until ready to serve.

We have a running joke about chicken in my family. Whenever I say
we’re having chicken for dinner, my husband says, “Chicken again?” and
then rattles off a seemingly endless list of chicken dinners his mother
used to make: “Chicken Parm, chicken cutlets, chicken stir-fry, chicken
casserole, chicken pot pie” and so on. The kids jump right on the bandwagon, groaning about all my chicken dinners. What they don’t realize
is that this only makes me even more determined to change their minds
about chicken. You could almost say I’m on a chicken crusade! Luckily,
these barbecued chicken breasts always win everybody over. They are
absolutely loaded with smoky barbecue flavor. Serve them with a black
bean and corn salad and jalapeño cornbread, and I guarantee clean plates
all around. Winner, winner chicken dinner! (Note: Allow at least 6 hours
for the chicken to marinate.)
13/4 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts
or chicken tenderloins
1/4 cup vegetable oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
11/4 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup Sweet and Tangy Barbecue Sauce (see recipe right)
or store-bought barbecue sauce
1. Place the chicken breasts between 2 pieces of wax or parchment
paper and, using a meat mallet or rolling pin, pound to an even ½‑inch
thickness. (Skip this step if using tenderloins.)
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, garlic, salt, brown sugar,
smoked paprika, cumin, chili powder and cayenne. Place the chicken
in a large sealable bag. Add the marinade to the bag, press the air
out, and seal. Massage the marinade into the chicken until evenly
coated. Put the bag in a bowl (to protect against leakage) and place
in the refrigerator to marinate for at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours.
3. Preheat the grill to high and oil the grates. Grill the chicken, covered,
for 2 to 3 minutes. Flip the chicken, and then brush with some of the
barbecue sauce. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. (Note that tenderloins
will cook faster than breasts.)
4. Transfer the chicken to a serving platter and serve with remaining
barbecue sauce alongside.
Cook’s Note: There are three secrets to grilling boneless, skinless
chicken breasts: Pound the chicken to an even thickness so the thin
part doesn’t dry out while the thick part finishes cooking. Never marinate in anything acidic like citrus juice or wine vinegar. Acids give
the meat a leathery texture. Don’t overcook—when pounded thin,
chicken breasts only need a few minutes per side over high heat to
cook through.

44 real food spring 2019

Sweet and Tangy
Barbecue Sauce
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

You can buy a tasty barbecue sauce, but it really is so easy to
make your own. My kids put this sweet, tangy, smoky sauce
on just about everything. Note that this recipe makes only
the amount required for the Smoky Barbecued Chicken.
Feel free to increase the quantities if you’d like extra; the
sauce keeps well in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/4 cup chopped yellow onion
1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
3/4 cup ketchup
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
11/2 tablespoons molasses
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
11/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
11/2 teaspoons chili powder
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1. In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium-low
heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently,
until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for
10 minutes more. Transfer the sauce to a blender or
mini food processor fitted with the steel blade and blend
until smooth.

Grilled Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS AS AN APPETIZER OR 3 TO 4 SERVINGS AS A MAIN COURSE

This is one of my favorite recipes in the book. And even though it’s in the appetizer chapter, I often serve it for dinner. The whole family
loves it, and the payoff in flavor is totally disproportionate to the effort involved. The hardest part—and, believe me, it’s not hard—is slicing the beef. After that, you simply whirl the marinade in a blender, slather it on the beef, and grill. The sauce comes together in a flash,
too. There’s no need to wait for grilling weather to make these. I’ve cooked them under the broiler and in a stovetop grill pan (many times
without the skewers, if I’m feeling lazy), always with success. Metal or wooden skewers may be used. You’ll need about 24 short skewers
or 12 long ones.
or the Peanut Sauce
F
3/4 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1/4 cup creamy peanut butter
3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon Thai red curry paste
1 tablespoon Sriracha
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, from 1 lime
(use the lime you zest for the marinade)

NUTRITION

For the Beef Satay
1 (11/2-pound) flank steak
6 tablespoons (3/8 cup or 90 mL) vegetable oil
11/2 tablespoons fish sauce
11/2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
zest from 1 lime
3/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1. To make the Peanut Sauce: In a small saucepan, whisk all of the
ingredients together over high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower
the heat and simmer until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes.
Set aside; the sauce will continue to thicken as it cools.
2. To make the Beef Satay: Cut the flank steak against the
grain into slices, about ¼ inch thick. Place the steak slices in a
medium bowl and set aside.
3. Combine the remaining ingredients in a blender and purée
until it becomes a smooth and thick marinade. Pour the mixture
over the steak slices and toss until evenly coated.
4. Thread the sliced meat onto 24 short or 12 long skewers
and lay flat on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet. Pour any
marinade that’s left in the bowl over the beef skewers.
5. Preheat the grill to high, then oil the grates. Grill the skewers,
covered, until the beef is browned on the outside but still pink
on the inside, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Serve the satay warm
with the peanut sauce on the side.

Cook’s Notes
• When you read through the recipe, you might wonder if I forgot
the step of letting the beef soak in the marinade. I assure you,
I didn’t! The marinade is thick and clings to the meat, imparting
loads of flavor in the short time it takes to cook. Go ahead and
marinate longer if you want to get a head start, but know that it
doesn’t make a bit of difference in terms of flavor.
• Flank steak is a tough cut, but it works beautifully in this recipe
because of the short cooking time. To guarantee that the meat
is tender, be sure to cut it against (that is, perpendicular to) the
grain. This cuts through the fibers and shortens them, making
the meat easier to chew, since breaking up the muscle fibers has
already been done for you. If you can’t find flank steak, skirt steak
is a good substitute. Look for Thai red curry paste, Sriracha and
fish sauce in the Asian food section of the market.
• If using wooden skewers, be sure to soak them in water for 20 to
30 minutes prior to using. To make the steak a cinch to cut, stick
it in the freezer for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing. 

Make clean eating part of
every day with deliciously
simple and flavorful
whole-food cooking
RECIPES BY JODI MORENO

46 real food spring 2019

A

fter another hectic day in our busy lives, it can be tempting to pick up takeout or pop a packaged frozen meal
in the microwave, but it’s easier than you think to cook at home—even with healthy plant-based whole foods.

Trained natural food chef Jodi Moreno is known for keeping her food simple while still creating bold, satisfying flavors
using homemade condiments, whole-food ingredients and approachable, easy techniques to make clean eating part
of everyone’s busy schedule. Moreno hopes her recipes will inspire people to cook more often if they have the tools
to make simple, wholesome, delicious meals almost any day of the week. In these recipes from her book, “More with
Less,” you can whip up chickpea crepes that pose infinite possibilities, fish tacos, a gluten-free version of pad thai
made with cucumber noodles, and more. “Ultimately cooking should be fun, approachable and celebrated, and not
just on special occasions but as a part of a daily routine,” says Moreno. “After all, food you eat should make you happy,
and if it makes you feel great too, well, that’s the (dairy-free) icing on the cake.” —Mary Subialka

Cucumber Noodle Pad Thai
MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS

When the weather gets warm, I love making light salads with
raw veggie noodles. I especially love using delicious sauces and
preparations from dishes that would typically use a regular pasta
or noodle, just like this “pad thai” recipe. To make the noodles,
you can use a spiralizer or the more humble (but just as effective)
julienne peeler. If you have neither, I would recommend starting
with the julienne peeler. It’s an inexpensive investment that will
end up getting a lot of use. Spiralizing cucumbers can be a bit
tricky, and you usually end up with a little less yield than you do
from the zucchini, which is why I included two cucumbers in the
recipe. Be sure to chop up and save any cucumber that doesn’t get
spiralized for another use or just add them on top of this salad.
2 cucumbers, julienned or spiralized lengthwise
1 medium green zucchini, julienned
or spiralized lengthwise
1 medium yellow zucchini, julienned
or spiralized lengthwise
¼ cup Sweet and Spicy Peanut Sauce (see recipe right)
3 scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced
¼ cup peanuts or cashews, finely chopped
handful of cilantro, roughly chopped
7 to 10 basil leaves, roughly chopped
Nori Gomasio for serving (optional) (see recipe right)
toasted sesame or hemp seeds for serving (optional)
1. In a large bowl, toss together the cucumber and zucchini
noodles. Spoon in the peanut sauce little by little until the veggie noodles are dressed as much as you like. Toss to make sure
all of the noodles are evenly coated.
2. Sprinkle with the scallions, nuts, cilantro and basil, and
the Nori Gomasio [Japanese condiment “finishing salt”] and
seeds, if using, or any other toppings that you like, and serve
immediately.

Sweet and Spicy
Peanut Sauce
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

A classic peanut sauce is delicious and has so many uses
beyond noodles. This sauce pairs particularly well with sweet
potatoes, so I use it over Thai Peanut Sweet Potato Skins as
well as over the raw Cucumber Noodle Pad Thai.
¼ cup peanut or almond butter
2 tablespoons tamari or coconut aminos
2 tablespoons brown rice vinegar
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 or 2 dashes hot sauce
1 thumbnail-size piece ginger
1 small clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons honey
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1. Put the peanut butter, tamari, vinegar, lime juice, hot
sauce, ginger, garlic, honey and sesame oil into a food processor and run continuously until smooth. Add about 2 tablespoons of water, or just enough that the mixture will coat the
back of a spoon. Serve immediately. This will keep for about
1 week in an airtight container in the fridge.

Nori Gomasio
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

Heat a medium frying pan over low heat and add 1 cup
sesame seeds. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until golden brown.
Transfer the seeds to a food processor along with 1 tablespoon sea salt and 1 sheet toasted nori, coarsely chopped,
and pulse just a few times until the mixture is uniform in size
(tiny granules), but be careful not to overprocess as you still
want texture to the sesame seeds. This will last for several
months in an airtight jar in the pantry.

Is there anything better than a taco? Just hearing the word makes me
happy and brings back so many memories—from my mom’s taco Tuesdays to our wedding in Mexico. The best is a fish taco with a little bit
of crispness on the outside of the fish. It’s also the ideal thing to make
when friends come over and want to help out in the kitchen. Tacos are
great to feed a crowd because they are easy to make, and people can build
their own to their tastes, which means you can easily offer vegetarian
options too.
Avocado Mash
2 ripe avocados
juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
3 scallions, white and light green parts only, minced
handful of cilantro, chopped
pinch of sea salt
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Fish
1 egg, lightly beaten
½ cup almonds, finely chopped
½ cup cornmeal
1 teaspoon chili powder
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 pounds white fish (such as cod or halibut)
olive oil, to drizzle
To Serve
Several soft flour or corn taco tortillas
Quick Pickled Red Chilies (recipe right)
1. Make the Avocado Mash: Put the avocado, lime juice, olive oil, scallions, cilantro, salt and pepper in a medium bowl and mash the avocado
until smooth and all of the ingredients are combined. Place in the fridge
until you’re ready to serve.
2. Preheat the oven to 400ºF.
3. For the Fish: Put the egg in a shallow bowl. In another shallow bowl,
mix together the almond, cornmeal, chili powder, garlic powder, salt
and pepper.
4. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Cut the fish into 4-inch-long
and 2-inch-wide pieces. Dip the fish pieces, one at a time, into the egg
and then into the almond mixture, making sure each piece is evenly
coated. Place them on the baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. When
all of the fish pieces have been coated, bake in the oven for 15 minutes.
Transfer to a serving plate.
5. To assemble, place 1 or 2 pieces of fish onto a tortilla, top with a
couple of pickled chilies and some avocado mash. Repeat with the
remaining ingredients.
48 real food spring 2019

Quick Pickled Red Chilies
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

Quick pickles are an easy way to add a flavorful punch to
salads, sandwiches, roasted veggies or tacos. You can follow
this simple formula to quick pickle anything, and you get to
eat them just 30 minutes later. Alternatively, you can store
your quick pickles in an airtight jar in the fridge and enjoy
them for weeks. Feel free to play around with different
herbs or spices added to the brine to give layers of flavor.
1 cup sliced red chilies
1 cup water
½ cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons white granulated sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon cumin seed
1. Slice the red chilies as you wish, and pack them into
a mason jar with a tight-fitting lid. Put the water, vinegar, sugar, salt and cumin seed into a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and allow the
liquid to cool for about 10 minutes, then pour the liquid
over the vegetables. Allow to cool to room temperature
before serving, or before covering and storing in the
fridge. These will keep for about 1 month in the fridge.

Anyone who knows me well knows of my deep love for artichokes. They were a
special afterschool snack for me as a kid, and steamed artichokes were one of the
first recipes I tackled in college. As I became braver and more experimental in
the kitchen, I came up with new ideas for artichoke recipes, and these marinated,
stuffed artichokes have become my favorite way to prepare them. While the
marinating requires a little extra time and work, this is a great make-ahead kind
of meal. You can steam and marinate the artichokes on the weekend, and even
prepare the pilaf ahead of time, and then eat them throughout the week at your
leisure while any extras continue marinating in the fridge. You can also skip the
marinating or the pilaf and serve these simply grilled with a side of butter or aioli.
Artichokes
3 globe artichokes
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
5 cloves garlic, pressed
juice from 2 lemons
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
red pepper flakes (optional)

To Serve
Miso Butter or Basil Cilantro Aioli (see recipes right)
1. For the artichokes: Slice off the top half of the artichokes but keep the stems
intact. Using scissors, snip off the tops of the leaves where the prickly bits are.
Place a large pot of water with a steamer basket over high heat (make sure the
water comes up to the basket but does not go over) and bring to a boil. Place
the artichokes in the steamer basket, cover, and steam for 30 minutes. Remove
them from the pot and allow them to cool slightly.
2. While the artichokes are steaming, prepare the marinade. Place the olive oil,
garlic, lemon juice, pinch of salt, black pepper and red pepper flakes, if using,
in a large, shallow bowl or baking dish. When the artichokes have cooled, slice
them down the center. Using a spoon, scoop out the prickly insides that surround the heart. Put the artichokes in the bowl or dish with the marinade and
make sure to coat all sides in the marinade. Cover, and put them in the fridge
until you are ready to serve. It is best to marinate them overnight or for a day,
but if you don’t have the time you can marinate them for 20 to 30 minutes (or
skip it altogether). You can keep them marinating for a few days if you like.
3. For the Quinoa Pilaf: Put the quinoa, water and salt in a medium saucepan,
bring to a boil, cover, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from
the heat, add the olive oil, lemon juice, nuts, parsley and basil, and cover again
while you’re grilling the artichokes.
4. Heat the grill or a grill pan to medium-high. Place the artichokes cut side
down and grill for about 5 minutes on each side.
5. To serve, place the artichokes on a plate, cut side up. Fill the cavity near the
heart with the quinoa pilaf, and serve with miso butter or aioli on the side, or
the dipping sauce of your choice (to dip the leaves).

Miso Butter
MAKES ¼ CUP

Miso butter is the greatest thing to happen to
both miso and butter. It is a flavor bomb that
explodes when tossed with anything, but especially with vegetables. It is so good, I often make
a double batch and just keep it in the fridge so it
is always ready, especially for a quick and casual
weeknight meal.
1. Place 4 teaspoons white miso and 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened at room temperature, in a small bowl and mix with a fork. To
store, roll it into a log using parchment paper,
trim any excess off the edges of the parchment,
and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap. Store in the
fridge until ready to use. This will keep for a
couple of weeks in the fridge.

Chickpea crepes are a delicious, savory vehicle for smashed
avocado, hummus, a fresh tomato and cucumber salad or soft
scrambled eggs. I make these for breakfast often because they
are easy to whip up when you want something filling and crepelike. I usually double or triple the batter and keep any extras in
a container in the fridge for when I crave them (which is often).
Plus, I can easily fry up a couple for myself, or for when I want
to feed a bunch of friends for brunch. In addition to relying
on the classic batter, I also love to play around and add spices,
herbs and other items to give the batter a little boost of flavor.
The basic recipe is great for just about everything, especially
smashed avocados with just a squeeze of lime. Adding cumin
and jalapeño to the batter gives it a nice, spicy, aromatic kick
and is best paired with a simple tomato-cucumber salad. The
crepes are also perfect topped with scrambled eggs, along with
some paprika and scallions. These are just some suggestions, so
feel free to experiment with different toppings and additions to
the basic recipe. The batter keeps for several days in the fridge.
1 cup chickpea flour
1 cup water
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
ghee or extra virgin olive oil, for cooking
1. Put the chickpea flour, water, olive oil and salt in a medium
mixing bowl and whisk until combined. Allow the batter to
sit, at room temperature, for about 30 minutes. Alternatively,
you can store this batter in an airtight container in the fridge
for up to 1 week.
2. Heat a large cast iron or frying pan over high heat. When
the pan is hot, lower it to medium heat and add enough ghee
or olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Add about ½ cup of
the batter, using a ladle, and spread the batter (just slightly)
using the back of the ladle. The pancake should be slightly
thinner and larger in circumference than a more traditional
pancake, about ⅛ inch thick. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes on each
side. The crepe is ready to flip when you see some bubbles
popping on the surface. Transfer to a plate and serve with
toppings of your choice.

Cumin and Jalapeño Crepe with Tomato
and Cucumber Salad
1. Prepare the Basic Chickpea Crepe batter and stir in 1 teaspoon
cumin, 1 deseeded and minced jalapeño, and a handful of cilantro, roughly chopped. Follow cooking instructions (Step 2 above)
for the Basic Chickpea Crepe recipe.
2. For the Tomato and Cucumber Salad: In a large bowl, toss
1 dozen cherry tomatoes, halved; 1 cucumber, chopped;
1 avocado, chopped; and a handful of arugula, chopped. Mix in
a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon or lime juice, then
season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
Serve the salad on top of the cooked chickpea crepe.

hen Christopher Kimball graduated from Columbia
University in the late 1980s, he could have done anything.
Raised in Westchester County, New York, and schooled at Phillips
Exeter Academy, a boarding school in New Hampshire, he had smarts
and connections; an art degree from Columbia left the choices wide
open. What’s surprising is that he decided to join the food-magazine
fray, scraping together $110,000 from friends and family, and launching Cook’s magazine next to Gourmet, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine,
and Cuisine.
“They were all lifestyle magazines. They weren’t about cooking;
they were about eating. I had a bunch of questions and couldn’t get
them answered,” Kimball reflects. “And I loved to cook. I thought it’d
be kinda cool to try to figure it out.”
He turned that little magazine—a simple-bound collection of
black-and-white pages, with drawings of food rather than photographs and not a celebrity to be seen—into a major multimedia company within 15 years. Cook’s would morph into Cook’s Illustrated in
1993, and then came Cook’s Country as well as the television shows,
Cook’s Country and America’s Test Kitchen; a radio show and podcast; and an array of cookbooks under his brand. By the time Kimball
left in 2015, his cooking show was the most popular on public television, and his bow-tied visage was famous.
After an acrimonious breakup with his former empire in 2015,
Kimball has opened a new chapter of his life, launching Milk Street
in an old building on Milk Street in Boston. The new company looks
a bit like the old in structure. There are test kitchens and offices,
a magazine, cooking show, radio program and podcast. There is
also an online retail store and a cooking school for recreational
cooking classes as well as nonprofit educational programs for children and adults.
But his latest book, “Milk Street Tuesday Nights,” shows a massive
shift in philosophy. Gone are the restrained line drawings, replaced
by a glossy, full-page color photograph for every recipe, and the notes
are short and to the point, rather than detailing all the trials and
discoveries made in the test kitchen.
And, most notably, the recipes pull from all over the globe: Tortilla
española comes between kofta, a Middle Eastern meatball, and Pao
Fan, a Chinese dish of brothy rice with bok choy and chicken. Asia
might be the most frequent influence among the recipes, but the book
makes stops in Africa, South America, the Mediterranean and more.
Meanwhile, the recipes are categorized by the time it takes to get them
on the table (“Fast,” “Faster” and “Fastest”) with two others (“One
Pot” and “Roast and Simmer”) dedicated to dishes that take longer
to cook but require little active time in the kitchen.
What changed? I caught him between stops on his book tour to
find out. “If you go around the world, you realize that what I’ve been
doing for 30 or 40 years—which is essentially Northern European
cooking—is great, but it’s only a tiny percentage of how the world
cooks,” Kimball says. “And most of the people around the world have
much better ideas!”

for rigatoni par-cooked in the same water that
cooked the broccoli, and then finished in a
sauce made from pureed broccoli stems. The
result isn’t just packed with flavor—the starch
from the pasta also combines with the sauce to
make it creamy and rich-tasting without any
butter or cream.
The plethora of condiments available today
also make it easy to supercharge your cooking,
he says, whether it’s kimchi to add effortless
zing to your fried rice, or smoked paprika to
give a meaty savor to a vegetarian chickpeaand-spinach stew. “Gochuang sauce from
Korea—that’s going to be ubiquitous in another three or four years,” Kimball predicts, noting
that he recently discovered potato chips flavored with the chili paste in the supermarket.
He uses the condiment in his new cookbook to
jazz up chicken salad and to make a spicy glaze
for potatoes.
He’s also big on zaatar, a Middle Eastern
spice blend based on wild thyme and sesame
seeds. “If you’re going to buy a spice blend,
zaatar would be by far the most useful one,
because you can put in on virtually anything,
from your eggs in the morning to your chicken
at night,” he says.
And tahini, the Middle Eastern sesame paste,
has many more possibilities than just enriching
hummus. Flip through “Milk Street Tuesday
Nights,” and you can find it added in a creamy
pasta sauce—an option that gets some protein
into dinner without the addition of meat as
well as a nutty complement to chocolate in a
sumptuous pudding.
Other ingredients he recommends every
home cook have on hand are whole cumin and
coriander plus a pepper other than black pepper or crushed red pepper flakes. Stock your
pantry with good soy sauce, fish sauce and
pomegranate molasses, an item that although
new for many, is found at many supermarkets.
The very fact that these ingredients are
stocked next to the ketchups and oyster sauce
in the grocery store, or are at the very least
available by mail order, is evidence of a shift in
how we cook as a country. “This book wouldn’t
have been possible 10 years ago,” Kimball
reflects. “Restaurants have really led the way;
even in smaller towns you can probably get
some decent Mexican food, versus when I grew
up, you had strip-mall Chinese [food]. People
now are more familiar with the good stuff, and
you can get it.”

KIMBALL COURTESY CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL’S MILK STREET

“If you go around the
world, you realize that
what I’ve been doing for
30 or 40 years—which
is essentially Northern
European cooking—is
great, but it’s only a
tiny percentage of how
the world cooks.”

By “better ideas,” he explains, he means
faster, fresher and more flavorful, qualities that
have become increasingly important as our
lives become busier.
“The Northern European philosophy was
take good ingredients, apply heat, time and
technique to develop flavor,” he says, offering
beef bourgignon as an example. It’s a stew that
requires very few ingredients, so success
depends on the quality of your ingredients,
the perfection of your technique and the time
to let it all come together in the pot. “That’s
not at all how the rest of the world cooks,” he
says. “The rest of the world goes, ‘Hey, let’s take
a bunch of really flavorful ingredients and put
them together.’ It’s not about the cooking, and
it’s not about the technique. It’s about the
combination of flavors and textures, and you
pretty quickly end up with something that’s
got a lot of flavor because you started with lots
of flavor.”
Packing flavor into every dish is especially
important, he finds, in a world where the quality of the raw ingredients isn’t as good as it
might be. The classical French cooking that
forms the core of Northern European cooking—and, by extension, North American cooking—developed in a time before chickens were
raised in factories, vegetables were bred for
hardiness and fruit was picked unripe for ease
of shipping.
“If the chicken has no flavor, the tomatoes
have no flavor and the thyme has no flavor, and
you’re applying French technique, that’s pretty
hard because you’re not starting with flavor,”
Kimball says. “Now you have to have really
good technique to develop flavor.”
You could take the time to develop that technique, working up ways to concentrate what
flavor you can—Kimball’s former approach—
but Kimball suggests just moving on and finding techniques that work well now, and fast.
He calls out stir-fried rice as an example:
“Stir-fried rice takes five minutes and you can’t
lose,” Kimball says. “You’ve got a little bit of
meat in there, you’ve got onion, garlic, shallot,
fish sauce, you might have soy sauce, an egg;
you have a bunch of stuff. No matter how
badly you screw it up, it’s still going to have a
lot of flavor.”
He’s also big on the Italian trick of boiling
pasta until it is barely al dente and then letting
it finish in the sauce so it absorbs extra flavor.
He has a recipe in “Milk Street Tuesday Nights”

“I really do think that we are really at the
tipping point of how we cook at home,” he says.
“If you think about how people cook in this
country, it’s very Fannie Farmer,” he says, referring to the seminal American cookbook that
was published in 1896. “We’ve stuck to an oldfashioned way of cooking that doesn’t really
make that much sense anymore.” Now, thanks
to chefs across the country pulling from a wide
world of flavors and techniques, we’re exposed
to more and different cuisines than ever before.
So, to Kimball’s point, why not cook at home
the sort of food that we like to eat out? There’s
no reason to wait for Saturday night for your
favorite Vietnamese ginger beef-and-rice-noodle salad or chicken tacos when the ingredients
aren’t hard to find, the dishes are faster and
fresher than tuna-noodle casserole, and it’s just
as easy to pull off.
Besides, he adds, there may be advantages
that extend beyond the dinner plate. Expanding
the home meal beyond the American staples
fosters connections, too.
He relates a story about filming an episode
of his television show in Beijing with a woman
who was making scallion pancakes. “She started laughing at me because I was doing it all
wrong. I asked her how long it took her to learn
to do it right. She said five years. I showed her
how to make pie crust, and she messed it all up.
We didn’t speak the same language, but we
laughed—we could understand each other,
because we were cooking.”
Because of this, Kimball bristles at the term
“ethnic food”—"Ethnic implies looking from
outside in. If you live there, you’re not making
ethnic food; you are just making food, the same
thing I’m doing here, just differently.”
Kimball’s quest these days is to open our
eyes to all the different ways people around
the world have learned to harness flavor and
to bring the best of those techniques into our
kitchens to make us better, happier cooks. To
him, it’s not about ingredients or about
assigning dishes a particular ethnicity. It’s
about finding methods that capitalize on the
ingredients and time we have available (for
better or worse).
“The best is when you come up with a technique that’s not about having a particular
ingredient,” he says. “It’s about how you cook,
about making changes that make cooking simpler and better. That’s the home run.” 

Kimchi and Bacon Fried Rice
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This fried rice is a great way to use up kimchi that has been languishing in your
refrigerator. Spreading the seasoned rice in an even layer in the skillet and letting it
cook undisturbed for a few minutes allows tasty charred bits to form on the bottom,
so don’t be impatient and stir too soon. The fried egg that tops each serving not only
completes the dish with a hit of protein, but the yolk, when broken, flows onto the
rice, adding a richness that heightens the flavors.
Don’t use long-grain rice. Japanese-style short-grain rice gives the dish a satisfying stickiness and chew. Don’t use a conventional skillet; a nonstick pan is needed to
prevent the rice from sticking.

1. If the rice is chilled, use your fingers to break apart any large clumps. Set a mesh
strainer over a small heatproof bowl and place near the stovetop. In a 12-inch
nonstick skillet over medium, cook the bacon until well browned, 10 to 12 minutes.
Scraping the pan, pour into the strainer; reserve the bacon fat.
2. Return 1 tablespoon of the fat to the skillet, add the onion and cook over medium,
stirring, until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the rice and cook for 1 to 2 minutes.
Drizzle the kimchi juice, soy sauce and 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat over the rice
and stir. Spread the rice in an even layer, increase heat to high and cook until
browned on the bottom, about 3 minutes.
3. Scrape along the bottom of the pan and flip the rice, then redistribute and cook
until again browned on the bottom, another 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the kimchi, bacon,
peas, sesame oil and scallions. Cook, stirring, until hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste and
season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl and cover with foil.
4. Wipe out the skillet with paper towels. Add 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat and
heat over medium-high until barely smoking. Swirl to coat the pan, then crack
an egg in each quadrant. Immediately reduce to medium-low and sprinkle with
salt and pepper. Cook until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny, 2 to
3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.
5. Serve the fried rice on individual plates, topped with a fried egg and sprinkled
with furikake, if using.

spring 2019 real food 55

pairings

Cheers to Brunch
Cocktails make a match with both sweet and savory sides of your midday feast
BY MARY SUBIALKA

S

avory egg dishes and sweet delights touched with maple and cinnamon flavors
often come together in a brunch spread. While coffee is often the go-to breakfast
drink, for something a little more celebratory, pair food from both sides of the flavor
spectrum with classic cocktails or go for twists on the usual suspects.
Frequent Real Food contributor Serena Bass—caterer extraordinaire and executive chef
at Lido restaurant in Harlem, New York—suggests the all-time favorite bloody mary (vodka
in seasoned tomato juice) to go with eggs, bacon, home fries, and anything spicy or salty.
If you want a twist on a peppery flavor without tomato, go instead with her Pepparade
cocktail (recipe below), which mixes up a fresh lemon creation with the spice.
Classic mimosas (orange juice topped with sparkling wine) go well with sweeter things,
Bass says, including waffles, pancakes, French toast, beignets and fresh doughnuts.
Also try Bellinis, which switch up orange for peach flavors: Make a peach puree, keep the
skin if you want a pinker color, strain and refrigerate. Add a little simple syrup until the
peach flavor is full and perfumed. Use this puree for ¼ of the glass and top with Prosecco.
Add slowly, and stir as you add, suggests Bass, since it tends to overflow. Her Heart of
Sharpness cocktail (recipe below) also pairs well with the sweet side of brunch.
Both of the following cocktails are extremely simple but very delicious, notes Bass.
Each recipe makes one cocktail and could easily be multiplied and served in pretty glass
pitchers to help make brunch a breeze.

Pepparade “This is shockingly delicious and just a little addictive,” says Serena Bass.
“It seems so simple, but the flavors are wonderful together and the heat from the spicy
vodka will be a fun surprise.”
Stir together 11/2 ounces fresh lemon juice and 2 tablespoons
superfine sugar until there are no crystals left. Do not heat or
you’ll change the sharp flavor of the lemon. Pour into a cocktail
shaker half full of ice and add 11/2 ounces Absolut Peppar vodka.
Shake for at least 10 seconds and pour over ice in a rocks glass.
Serve with a spear of hot or sweet red pepper standing
vertically at the edge of the glass.

Heart of Sharpness “This is an updated little take on a champagne
cocktail. It is delicious with sweet brunch food like pancakes or French
toast and is one of our best sellers at Lido restaurant,” says Bass.
Muddle 1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) simple syrup,
2 strips orange zest (removed with a peeler)
and 4 drops Angostura Bitters. Top with
Prosecco and stir gently. Strain into a rocks
glass or a stemmed wine glass half full of
ice. Garnish with a twist of orange zest. 
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food spring 2019

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763.717.8500
12955 HWY 55,
PLYMOUTH, MN 55441
MingleTeam.com

“Since 1992, Erotas has created
architecturally driven residences
that are unparalleled in quality.
We’re dedicated to making every
detail of your home exceptional.
That’s the Erotas way.”