Peppermill still a well-kept dining secret

Peppermill server Tracy Cleary picks up entrees from the kitchen during a recent lunch rush. (Photo by Frank Aymami)

The new generation of the Riccobono family is doing some nice new things at Peppermill, modernizing without destroying the restaurant’s menu and style.
A couple of weeks ago, I built a dinner entirely from dishes they’ve done for decades. In a way, they were the same. In another way, they had been buffed up to keep up with current standards.
I depart every meal at Peppermill lately with the feeling it’s on the verge of breaking out and getting as hot as it was in its early years when you couldn’t get into the place.
But it remains under-appreciated, and for a ridiculous reason, because some people find the presence of older diners offensive. How does the age of the other diners affect the food and service? The answer: They don’t.

Why it’s essential
If the Peppermill stopped serving breakfast, a lot of people wouldn’t know what to do in the morning. It has become the best and most popular place in Metairie for that meal. The lunch and dinner menus are a blend of Creole standards with New Orleans Italian dishes, many of which are now served only here.

Why it’s good
The breakfast menu is so comprehensive and well executed that it’s no mystery why the morning meal is so popular. They make elaborate poached egg dishes with seafood and hollandaise as well as they make pancakes and sausage.
The rest of the day, food is served at neighborhood restaurant prices but with ingredients of good quality and recipes that, although old hat in many cases, are good old hat.

Back story
The Peppermill began in the 1970s as a fern restaurant, a feminine spin-off of the old Buck Forty-Nine Steak House. Josie Riccobono was its tastemaker. She died right after Hurricane Katrina, but her grandchildren have moved into the place and modernized much of the menu.

Surroundings
The lush, ornate look of the early days gave way to a cleaner, more modern environment after Katrina, which required a major renovation of the whole restaurant. The two rooms offer many private corners, but many of the regulars have favorite tables.

For best results
The sheet of daily specials includes much of the best food. They’re unusually good with veal.

Room to improve
Peppermill is famous for its crawfish bisque, but it’s just average. The lighting is a bit harsh, especially in the rear dining room.

Factors other than food
Up to three points, positive or negative. Absence of points denotes average performance.
Dining environment +1
Consistency +2
Service +1
Value +2
Attitude +2
Wine and bar -1
Hipness -2
Local color

Special attributes
Good for business meetings; medium private room; early evening specials; open Sunday lunch and dinner; open Monday for lunch; open all afternoon; quick, good meal; good for children; easy, nearby parking; reservations honored promptly.