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The high-ceilinged reception rooms with silver settees and the dazzlingly tiled open courtyard with a wall of water are gorgeously evocative of Mogul style, as are the canopied dining terrace with reflecting pools and the tented spa areas. The 72 rooms are comparatively simple, furnished in dark wood, with beige and pewter silks, and marigold-colored armchairs and pillows; there are also eight suites. Breakfast and meals of both Western and Asian styles are served in the Dining Room; the place to be in the evening is Sheesh Mahal, which serves refined local cuisine by the lake with an utterly romantic view. You’ll not lack for service, be it from the butler hovering near your door or the thoughtful pool attendant. Your comfort is less assured when reaching the hotel by boat—turnaround time is 15 minutes, which can make for a chilly wait in the early morning or the evening. Road access through the city is even slower.