Sweet those guys are going to love it man. A great first route. Nothing to hard every pitch is a moderate with the exception of the 10D OW Flare.

The second to last pitch has this cool lower out penji to a buttress of rock with a 5.8 hand crack splitting it. When you start up the crack and get a view between your legs is just big air and vast amounts of sweeping rock. A view I have not forgotten some 20 years later almost. Yippee for them.

Right on! The upper dihedral is so amazing and clean. The pitches below that are steep.

This is one of the longest routes on the big rock a real day to day grinder but if your fast you can tick them off pretty quick short fixing and hauling hard.

Have fun guys, and Mike Super Slacker Highway at Pat N Jack is a real gem of a climb get to it if you can.

Big Mike here coming at you from Dan's computer!!! So sick.. Iphone can suck it as far as typing goes...

Woke up at 9 this morning so my thermarest patch must have done something... Relic was no where to be found so I started organizing gear... The plan for the day was Central Pillar of Frenzy and I was stoked. It was a bit of a late start again....

We finally got up there and there was another party all ready on it, and they weren't moving very quick.

We asked if they were planning to do the whole climb but they weren't sure so we decided to head over to Pee Pee Pillar to warm up. Aislinn wanted to lead the 5.7 and when ais wants to lead something we let her.

Aislinn on p1 Paradise Lost 5.7

Sending

Sent

The other party bailed from Central Pillar so after all climbed it we went over to the base. They were canucks too from toronto. Relic led the first pitch and dragged three ropes, Two halfs and a tagline single. By the time he got to the top and brought me and Ais up he was over it.

I took another valley pano from up there though.. So sick!!

Ais at the crux

Relic wanted to bail and leave me and Ais to finish up, but by the time we got all the ropes untangled I was over it. I always stack my halfs together because it makes for good belays but when you try and take one rope out of the system you're f'ed..

We decided to go back to Pee Pee Pillar and Ais gave me the little shove I needed to lead it.
Aislinn Merkel photo

We decided to go back to Pee Pee Pillar and Ais gave me the little shove I needed to lead it.

WTF? You channeling me or something, Mike? Pee Pee Pillar was the first 5.10 I led in the Valley. Might even be the first 5.10 I led anywhere.

That was about the time of the last ice age, though, when EBs were the hot new shoe, Whillans harnesses were state of the art, and hexcentric chocks were amazing new pro. And since I'm about half your height, that means it was twice as hard...

Now get back out there in the morning and finish the Central Pillar. Or the East Butt.

You should be getting up just about now. You will be the first in line at CPF, then you can fly. Don't stop to take pics (we've all seen the first section) until the sun comes. Forget us, enjoy the climb.

We got on Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday this morning. Got up earlyish to beat the sun but not early enough apparently. The whole thing was cooking hot by the time I started leading the first scary pitch. By the time I was able to get my first piece in about 35 feet up, I had buckets of sweat blinding my eyes. Jah I'm whining about one of the best climbs in the valley, but I think there was a reason we were the only ones on it today. It is too freaking hot!

We did one of the crack pitches on Sons, then I had to make us rap off due to heat exhaustion. :(

We got a pretty early start this morning..... Then we forgot the tag line..... Fortunately it was a short drive down one of the only two way roads in the valley that I've seen so far... like Relic said it was pretty darn warm...

After he almost sent the first pitch, I sent the second via the 10b traverse move and brought him up.

The start of p3

Knob at the belay

Crux of p3 (Taken on rappel)

Close up of the pin scars

Valley Pano

We chilled and Rehydrated at the base of the tree on sunset ledge and I think the adrenaline was going pretty good at that point because I felt alright still..

Relic took us up to the 5.6 anchor on Sons of Yesterday and and I sent the 10a pitch. I felt really good today and cleaned everything but the 3rd pitch crux of serenity crack.

Couple pics of Relic dying on sons.

3rd pitch of sons

Relic wasn't very stoked when I took this Pano

We parked at the Awanhnee Hotel so after we went to get some water and chilled on the back patio

We met a very brave squirrel.

Then we went to currie and showered for the first time this trip ;) So yes, there are still dirtbags in camp 4 ;)