Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

Comments

You have identified the components that are drawing the battery down. Now you have to figure out what is keeping them turned on when they are suppose to turn off. You will need a wiring diagram that shows what is connected to BCM or display. Try alldatadiy.com. Look first at electrical inputs triggered by mechanical switches. The problem is you have to remove interior panels to get at the switches so you can probe the wires with your test meter. In my case, the jeep was so old it was "fix it or tow it" plus I could take it offline for a while because I had another car. If your jeep is fairly new you may want to take it to the dealer. They have special tools where they can probe the body control module using the OBD diagnostic port. Doing this yourself will be time consuming. In my case I work at a desk all day and I sort of turned working in the garage to a hobby. But the $ savings are a plus.

Wrong Part - I'm trying to find a replacement upper radiator hose for a 98 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 2.5L 4 cycl. engine, 2 WD. I cannot find one anywhere and have ordered the part 4 times and each time get the wrong part. Advance, Auto Zone, and NAPA have all tried ordering the part and when it comes in it's the wrong one. Their computer shows two different part numbers both wrong. Tried going to the dealership and they also showed two different parts but no picture so they didn't know if it was right but it cost $150. Has anyone else had this problem or does anyone know the right part number.

many thanks for your sugestions..-your first idea-the back glass security switch-witch i simply unplugged-seems to have been the problem!.. -the fresh battery-witch they upgraded to a larger cold crank-700,(for$26)seems to have helped too..maybe thats what i get for tryin to put a econo-battery in sumpthin with this mutch electrical junk on it..-th old one was a 550..--so far,th alarm hasn't gone off-for no reason,bet that glass sensor was it,as i've seen more than one other gcl owner-embarrased when their jeeep is screaming it's head off in the parking lot.!..i might leave them a note-and let them know what WE figured out,might help them out?!--if you unplug those fuses,how mutch stuff won't work? sounds like th trip comp,mebee even the instrument cluster,and th remote unlock..and probably.with my luck-cruise control..it keeps me from getting tickets,but i could live without th trip computer..it's only function seems to be is reminding me how mutch of a gas pig my 5.2 awd is..-at between 11 to 15 mpg..

anyhoo,many thanks for your info...time will tell if pulling the glass sensor wire addressed the problem,as i left th sensor on the main hatch,and the button release doesn't work unless th truck is unlocked,so it 's still reasonably secure..--thanks! :shades:

Dear friendsI found oil on spark Plug No.1 when I changed spark plugs for my car jeep grand Cherokee Lerado 2008 3.7L, after I installed the new set, I lost the engine power and the rpm go down into 0.5 rpm, I made computer check I found that coils no 1, 2 , 4 not working well and the air temp. sensor not working , I changed all, then I discovered that I lost about 1 kg from engine oil, please this lost related to the inactive spark plug or there is no relation between the lack of oil and the inactive plug, if there is no relation is that refer to problem in my engine , it start burning oil, ( there is now white smoke get out from exhaust, and when I opened the splay oil cover on the top of motor while the engine work also no smoke get out from this gap) please I need your immediate help :sick: :confuse: Thanks & Best RegardsKamil

how many miles? first step would be a compression test.. sounds like the oil rings on the oiston are worn,or a broken ring might've scratched the wall of the cylinder..-you might get by with some "marvel mystery oil",,some in th crankcase,and some in th gas tank-for upper cyl lube..might free up a stuck ring?!..good luck!

My heater, turn lights, backing lights stop working I checked the fuse, and found that it had blown, I replaced the fuse and started my Jeep, tested the heater and turn lights, everything worked fine, but once I put it on gear it blew the fuse. I replaced the fuse again, and it blows it everytime I put in gear. I believe I have a ground problem, but don't know where to check.

95 jeep gc driver side low beam went out still had high beam replaced bulb worked fine. week later passenger side low beam went out still had high beam. replaced bulb worked fine. week later driver side low beam went out still had high beam. so now i have 1 low beam and both high beams. could anyone know what the problem is . thank you.rked fine

I just replaced the head lights on my 97 JGC. Bulb, connectors, and wiring are very straightforward. First, unless you a very careful you can damage the wiring/connector when you remove it so carefully inspect the connector. You may have compromised it, bulb stops working, you replace bulb, but you temporarily fix the problem when you put connector back. Look at where wire goes into back of connector. Make sure it doesn't look like it may have been pulled out some or if insulation looks damaged. Next, try a high quality OEM type bulb. Next, given age of vehicle I would replace the light switch. Mulfifunction switches can fail in funny ways. After that, it will probably be easier to rewire it using splices instead of trying to find the fault. My biggest mistakes in the garage have been cases where I broke one thing while I was trying to fix someting else.

Try a fuse with 5A more rating. You may have an aging component that is drawing more current than what it was originally designed for. Find out exactly what "heater" components are on this circuit and then disconnect them. If it doesn't blow you know where the problem is. Probably a blower motor or a switch. I'd be stunned if your backing lights and turn lights were blowing a fuse. One other possibility is the Park,Neutral,Safety switch if your model uses one to contol back up lights. The switch is screwed into the transmission. My vehicle is 97 so I don't know about the new designs.

I am redoing front suspension on my 97 JGC. A circular rubber pad called the jounce bumper sits inside the coil spring. Looks like it softens the blow if the suspension drops so hard that the shocks can't stop downard travel completely. Mine is all crumbly and rotted. Can't find any info about removal and installation. Looks like there is a metail fasterner in the center of it, but no place to put a screw driver and it doesn't look like a hex bolt. Please advise. Thanks in advance

First, measure your fuel pressure. Odds are its OK, but you never know. It does run so you know you are getting spark. The air-fuel ratio must be 14.7 to 1 or no go. My educated guess is that somehow you are leaking air into engine that computer does not know about. Faulty emission control, manifold gasket. etc. When you put your foot on the gas, the injectors inject more fuel and a small leak isn't big enough to make it stall. But at idle you are only running 600 rpm. Small air leaks make the mixture too lean. Another possibility is something wrong at the throttle: cable, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, etc. I guess I would check the throttle first. Clean it thoroughly if it looks dirty.

My 97 jeep had all kinds of leaks and sat all summer. I just got it fixed and at 180K engine still runs with original fuel pump and injectors; not smooth, but it runs. 4.0L I6.

On the side of the air intake and linked to the throttle butterflies, there is a variable resistor that controls the flow of fuel to the injectors. It may be cracked or the track may be worn away with use causing a disconnect. The circuit is complete at full throttle. Check voltages at this device, from the manual of your model.

Lately I have let both my Son and his wife drive my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I'm getting the same response from them on the surging . . . . Daughter-in-law saw what I meant that when she drove my Jeep and stepped on the gas , the vehicle would jump forward rapidly and she said to me that now she believed me when I was driving and it would happen to me she thought I was just speeding off rapidly . I have brought the vehicle back to Jeep and told them about what happens and they said they would talk to the engineer when he came to the shop . . . in other words , nothing will be done . So , now I have no other recourse but to notify the National Traffic Safety Board about my problem as they seem to be taking care of Toyotas problem with the surging. Whis me luck all and Merry Christmas to all .

The airbag light came on today as I was driving down the road. Had the same issue with a Grand Caravan several years ago, only difference, horn also quit working on mini van. Turned out to be the clock spring in the steering column. Horn still working on Jeep. Any ideas as to what could be the problem.

when i first got my -98 gcl,5.2,awd, the headlights would blink -kinda like the alarm was tripped,but engine was running.. since then, i've found there seems to be a sensor in th headlight circut,because it did that flasing thing when i needed a headlight..--i took the headlight switch apart,and found that most of the solder connections had a crack in them.. ire-soldered them,and saved myself the $150 bucks autozone wanted for one with the fog light switch in it,but i've got more time than money..hope this helps! :blush:

I have a 97 JGC. V8 limited. Turn signals started intermittently not working. Replaced flasher on fuse panel, and turn signals worked fine. One problem. With new flasher, when signals or hazards are not on, new flasher makes a buzzing noise. A mechanic said it was a short in the multi purpose switch in the column. Replaced it, same result. Jeep dealer told me its got to be a short somewhere. All bulbs work, checked wiring to bulb sockets, could not see a problem, visually checked wire harnesses and bundles between column and fuse panel for breaks or pinches, none detected. Has anyone seen this before? If it is a short, how do you find it?

Take flasher out. If buzz goes away buzz must be due to flasher OR due to the current it is drawing. Use ammeter to measure current while flasher plugged in. You will need jumper leads. Current measured is I. Measure open circuit voltage (should be about 12-14 volts). Call this V. Go to radio shack and buy a resistor, R, where R = V/I. Connect resistor. If you get buzz it's in the car. If not, the buzz was in the flasher. Based on what you said, I'm 99% sure it's the flasher. It may be easier to try another flasher. MAKE SURE IT'S A DIFFERENT BRAND.

Your heat problem is due to either a problem with a vacuum motor or a vacuum switch that moves the doors in the vent system. Should be $200 max to fix that. Coolant always flows thru the heater core so there's nothing wrong under the hood, unless core got plugged with debris (highly unlikely). If the paint is bad and/or interior ripped I would sell it, but $800 is too low if engine & trans OK. I think you could sell it for more on ebay unless it's all dented up. I have a 97 Jeep with 180K, the paint is starting to get crow's feet, but engine and trans are still good. Your miles is not too high. In TN where I live, decent vehicle costs $8-10K so sales tax alone is $1000!!

agree with other poster,lots of factors--mainly-what could you replace it with for that kinda money?..engine/tranz? tirz?body and paint are usually th last thing i worry about-that slick paint don't get you there!--if your mecanic's gonna work on the a/c,then he should b able ta see whatsvwrong with heat-usually the valve that shuts off the hot water,when you turn on the a/c..if u can find it(by th heater core-external to heater box,inline heater hose valve)turn it on in winter,close it in summer shop around,and seee what other mecanics want-but your estimaste ain't bad..cars today got LOTS of crap to go wrong,so-learn to fix it yourself,or pay th piper!?!

I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee Limited with a couple of heater issues. I did the test to check the computer and got no codes. It just had 00 and when i kept turning the know it just counted up to 99. (not sure if its suppose to do that or not.)

Firsr issue is the heater is intermittingly shutting off.. There is still power to the display but it will shut off the blower while im driving pretty frequently now.

Second I am getting poor air flow out of the vents.. The air is hot however just not flowing out much.. The center vents are kinda blowing out the air but the two vents by the doors is almost no air blowing out..

Im pretty sure the blend doors are good as the air not cold and when I move the dials between driver and passenger the air does change temperature also with no fault codes.

I did have the heater core replaced before the winter and the guy said the blend doors looked fine.. I dont want to have to pull the dash out again as it was a giant pain in the a**.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem would be? Better yet how to fix these problems..

I have a 2003 JGC and took it to the "Dealer" and they replaced a sensor that said was the problem...Wasn't though. Same problem, had it taken to repair shop and they told us the front control panel shorts out. Replaced it and works fine.. It costs $120, but could get one at a junk yard if you can find a JGC.Hope it helps...

You will have to get a wiring diagram and find the control wire to the blower motor, i.e. the one that turns it on or off. Then, you will have to splice this wire so you can connect a voltmeter to it. You can do the splice with a crimp connector tool. If you are lucky, you may be able to back probe the wire so you don't have to make a splice.

It will be very helpful to create a very long clip lead to go from the meter (-) to the battery(-). You can't measure without a good ground. Then you will have to observe it to see if the control is malfunctioning or the blower is malfunctioning. The only alternative is to guess. I learned this the hard way. I once replaced rear wiper motor on my jeep and it wasn't the problem at all. It was the switch. It's not easy, but it can be done.