directions:

1. Cover 3 cups of wood chips (any kind) with water in a small bowl, set another small bowl over them to keep them submerged, and set aside to soak for 1 hour. Drain the chips, pour them onto a large sheet of heavy-duty foil (or a double layer of regular foil), and wrap and seal to make a pouch. Poke vent holes all over the pouch with a paring knife, and set aside.

2. Meanwhile, mix salt, pepper, brown sugar, chili powder, paprika, cumin, onion and garlic powders, and cayenne in a small bowl, breaking up any brown sugar lumps with your fingers. Set chicken on cutting board and gently loosen the skin from breasts, legs, and thighs with your fingers (do not tear skin). Rub the meat underneath the skin with about one-third of the spice mixture. Rub oil over the skin and sprinkle remaining spice mixture all over the chicken.

3. Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on high, placing the pouch of wood chips over the primary burner, for 15 minutes. If using a gas grill, leave the primary burner on high and adjust the other(s) to maintain grill temperature at about 350 degrees F. When the charcoal is covered with gray ash, push it to one side of grill, set wood chip pouch directly on it, position grate, cover, and heat grate for 5 minutes.

4. Open the beer and discard about half of it. Punch three or four more holes in the top of the can with a can opener. Hold chicken upright and carefully slide beer can, holes pointed up, into chicken cavity. Position chicken on cool side of grill (opposite the fire or burner) using beer can and drumsticks to balance it tripod-style on grate. Close cover (for charcoal grill, make sure cover vents are halfway open and positioned over chicken) and roast, rotating chicken 180 degrees halfway through cooking, until skin is deep brown and a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 170 degrees to 175 degrees F, about 1 to 11/4 hours.

5. Remove chicken and can from grill (use silicone mitts to protect your hands), tent with foil, and rest for about 10 minutes. Carefully remove can from chicken cavity without spilling contents and discard. Quarter or carve chicken and serve.