If New York is the city that never sleeps, Houston is the one that never eats in. According to foodie guide Zagat, locals dine out an incredible average of five-and-a-half times a week

Mr and Mrs Hamilton ride out with some Texan cowboys, explore Houston’s foodie scene, then head down Galveston way

We want to hang out with Robert and Shelby. Robert is a cowboy and his friend works at South Texas Tack and can get us a deal on some boots.

We met Robert when he knocked on the door of our restored 1850s house on the grounds of holiday ranch Texas Ranch Life, spur glinting in the sun, chewing tobacco well under way, stetson cocked.

We had a horseride over some of the farm’s 1,600 acres booked, but first we were being corralled for some buffalo-spotting through the sweet-smelling grasses surrounding the farmstead in Chappell Hill, about an hour from central Houston.

But more of that later, for you can’t come to cowboy country without saddling up.

If New York is the city that never sleeps, Houston is the one that never eats in. According to foodie guide Zagat, locals dine out an incredible average of five-and-a-half times a week.

Our fortnight away was dominated by deliciousness; never more so than at talk-of-the-town Underbelly (underbellyhouston.com). This comfortable and ever-so-slightly experimental restaurant is the home of executive chef Chris Shepherd.

Another renowned chef is Monica Pope. Her quirky Sparrow Bar + Cookshop (sparrowhouston.com), has some unusual touches (origami menus and chemistry-themed glassware). We were blown away by The Date With A Pig appetiser, a medjool date with chorizo, bacon and chermoula, enhanced with a $10 cocktail list.

Other Montrose restaurants worth a look include Hugo’s, Poscol and El Real. We visited them on a 90-minute Houston Culinary Tour (www.houstonculinarytours.com) – also a great way to meet locals – see footage here www.khou.com/great-day/videos/gdh-6_17_14Seg5-263506211.html.

For shoppers, the Galleria mall has 400 stores. The university area of Rice Village offers boutique shops, and a stroll away, two brilliant bookshops – Brazos Bookstores and Murder By The Book. The Heights area is also for laid-back scoffing and shopping – don’t miss boutique Emerson Rose and Heights General Store.

In the museum district (houston museumdistrict.org), many venues have free entry. We popped into The Museum of Fine Arts, but other offerings include the Museum of Childhood and Weather Museum. The area also includes Houston Zoo (adults $15, children aged two to 11 $11).

A trip to Houston would not be complete without a visit to NASA Space Centre (spacecenter.org). The main site is geared towards children with lots of hands-on science fun, but a tram tour around the official complex of the Apollo space missions is highly recommended. The space centre is included on a moneysaving cityPASS booklet which gives entry to five attractions at a cost of $49 for adults, $39 for children (citypass.com/houston).

Sprawling Houston is not tourist-friendly when it comes to transport links, so car hire or a taxi fund is needed. However, we loved its trendy shops, huge malls and food scene and spending time at a working ranch was an unbeatable experience, so get yerself out there y’all.

Galveston Island

Outside Houston

We spent two blissful days as guests of Texas Ranch Life, an hour’s drive West. Run by the welcoming Elick family, this 1,600-acre working ranch boasts views to die for and stunning historical lodgings. It has about 40 quarter horses, trained on-site by cowboy Robert, who took us buffalo-spotting then riding among the farm’s longhorn.

We loved the family’s tales of rodeo riding and cattle driving. Other activities include fishing, tomahawk throwing and ranch work demos. Our overnight stay with food and riding would have cost $275pp plus six per cent tax.

We also spent two nights on Galveston Island (cityofgalveston.org), an hour’s drive from Houston.

Galveston is a resort of seafood restaurants, surf/bikini shops, galleries and Victorian architecture.

We stayed at the gorgeous Harbor House Hotel & Marina and Tremont House with its period detail. We used Tremont’s free shuttle bus to its beach-side sister hotel The Galvez, a short walk to Galveston Historic Pleasure Pier ($26.99 for an all-day pass) where Mrs Hamilton defied death on the rollercoasters. Mr Hamilton preferred The Strand shopping district, Board Games Island café and historic confectioner La King’s.

We also visited Moody Gardens, which includes a Rainforest pyramid – packed with close-enough-to-touch wildlife and fish – and a similar shaped Aquarium, better than the Downtown Aquarium in Houston which oddly had white tigers on show. You can also swing on zip wires and get wet at Schlitterbahn Waterpark.

A live performance at the Haunted Mayfield Manor – based on a hurricane in 1900 – was a squeal, as was a harbor tour among the Gulf Coast’s dolphins. Here you can also walk around tall ship Elissa, at the Seaport Museum.

Doubletree Suites Houston Galleria

Hotels

We started our holiday at the comfortable DoubleTree Suites Galleria, perfectly located next to the 400-store Galleria shopping centre.

The hotel has a business feel, but suited us.

The inclusion of a kitchen in our suite was a treat and we enjoyed the good-sized outdoor pool.

We also tried The Magnolia, a modern, attractive hotel Downtown.

Our suite was stunning (also including a kitchen), however, there were a few minor inconveniences – constant banging from construction workers on the next block when you’re trying to have a lie-in, a lack of seating (and choice) at a chaotic breakfast and a potentially chic and relaxing reception area marred by noise from private parties above.

However, you can’t beat its location with great bars (The Flying Saucer and El Big Bad particularly) nearby.

Minute Maid Park and the BBVA Compass Stadium, the respective homes of the Houston Astros and Houston Dynamo, were a few blocks from the hotel.

Our last stay was at recently renovated 23-storey Royal Sonesta, back within walking distance of The Galleria.

We loved our modern-feeling room and its fantastic views but the swimming pool was a bit small. Breakfast was excellent.

Factbox

We were guests of DoubleTree Houston Galleria (doubletree3.hilton.com/en/hotels/texas/doubletree-suites-by-hilton-hotelhouston-by-the-galleria-HOUSYDT/index.html), Texas Ranch Life (texasranchlife.com), Magnolia Hotel (magnoliahotels.com/houston/magnolia-hotel-houston.php), Royal Sonesta (sonesta.com/royalhouston), Harbor House (harborhousepier21.com) and The Tremont (wyndhamtremonthouse.com).

We also had RailAir bus tickets from Reading railway station to Heathrow, visit railair.com.

We paid £1,311.10 for two return flights with United Airlines from Heathrow to Houston with Travelbag. Go to travelbag.co.uk.

See visithoustontexas.com.

You can also find out more on the Texas Tourism website at www.traveltex.com