Monday, June 30, 2014

When I was a child my mother often made pineapple upside down cake because my father really liked it. The pineapple rings would caramelize as the cake baked on top creating the most fabulous smell that permeated our home. This sorbet is reminiscent of the nostalgic flavor of roasted pineapple. Studding the pineapple with vanilla beans and bathing it in caramel syrup adds depth to round out the rich mellow flavors.

There is no need for an ice cream maker with this easy recipe. Just freeze the puréed fruit then add to the food processor to incorporate some air and create a smooth texture. Serve from the food processor or refreeze until ready to serve.

It is quite tasty on its own, but a healthy splash of dark rum makes it sublime.

Use a sharp knife to peel and cut up the pineapple. The end of a vegetable peeler is helpful to remove the eyes so you don't have to peel the skin too deeply.

Don't worry if the caramel syrup turns a little solid on the pineapple or in the dish. It will turn back to liquid during the roasting process as it mixes with the pineapple juices.

Remove the top and bottom of the pineapple with a sharp knife. Peel and quarter the pineapple. Use a vegetable peeler to remove the eyes so you don't have to remove the peel too deeply. Remove the tough core. Place in a glass baking dish.

Slice the vanilla bean down the middle then cut into 8 small pieces. Made two incisions in each pineapple quarter. Insert a piece of vanilla bean.

In a small saucepan combine the sugar and water. Stir to combine. Heat over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Increase to medium heat and boil gently until the syrup turns light amber colored. Remove from the heat and carefully pour over the pineapple pieces. The syrup may start to harden, but it will turn back to liquid as the pineapple cooks in the oven.

Roast the pineapple in the oven until caramelized and a knife easily pierces the flesh 30-40 minutes. Place the glass dish on a rake and allow the pineapple to cool. Once cooled remove the vanilla bean pieces. Cut the pineapple into pieces and transfer to a food processor or blender including all the caramelized juices. Purée the pineapple until smooth. Add some water if it is too thick. It will have the consistency of applesauce. Put the puréed pineapple in a shallow glass container. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and freeze for 2-4 hours until solid. Transfer the frozen pineapple to a food processor or blender. Add some water and pulse until smooth. The mixture will lighten. Serve immediately or return to the glass container and freeze until ready to serve.

Sunday, June 22, 2014

Summer just begs for tropical flavors. Like the Harry Nilsson song says, "She put the lime in the coconut and drank them both up." When you throw in a mango you have a party. I love lime, coconut, and mango. So, I thought they just might make a delectable macaron. Turns out they do.

These petit treats are an explosion of tropical flavors that make them difficult to eat just one. But don't worry because the recipe makes a lot.

I have been slightly obsessed with macarons lately. Different taste combinations seem to fill my mind constantly. French macarons can be a little intimidating, but with a few tricks and a little practice they really aren't hard to make.

Macarons freeze quite well. Just allow them to sit for a few minutes to soften before serving. That is the hard part in our house. I like to keep a tin in the freezer for a little afternoon treat. Although the tin doesn't stay full for long.

Here are a few secrets I have learned from my mac obsession:

1. You will get the best results if you separate the egg whites and store them in a glass jar in the
refrigerator for several days before making the macarons. It allows the egg whites to lose their
elasticity and rise without exploding and causing the shells to crack.

2. Allow the piped macarons to sit for 20-30 minutes for the top of the shells to dry so they don't
crack when baking.

3. If possible, bake on silicone baking mats instead of parchment paper. The macarons rise more
evenly and are much easier to remove. If you bake a lot, silicon baking mats are a good
investment as you will find you use them in place of parchment paper for better results.

4. Open the oven door once or twice during baking to let out steam and prevent cracking.

This recipe is rather long because you have lime macaron shells, coconut macaron shells, and mango lime cream to make. But each part can be done separately and then assembled at a later time. The macarons shells can be stored in a tin at room temperature for a few days or for several days in the freezer. The mango lime cream can be made a day or two ahead as well. Once assembled the macarons need to rest in the refrigerator for several hours. They will keep for a few days in the refrigerator. Freeze them for longer storage.

The lime macaron recipe makes about 3 trays of 1 1/2 inch (4 cm) macarons. The coconut macaron recipe makes about 4 trays of the same size so you will probably have left over coconut macarons. But they are quite tasty on their own or sandwiched with chocolate ganache or Nutella.

In a bowl large enough to add the meringue to sift together the ground almonds and confectioner's sugar. Add the lime zest and incorporate into the almonds and confectioner's sugar by rubbing the mixture between your fingers to release the fragrant oils of the lime zest. Pour 3 egg whites over the mixture and set aside. Do not stir.

Put the other 3 egg whites in the bowl of a standing mixer with a whisk attachment. Combine the granulated sugar and water in a small saucepan. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil and continue to cook until a thermometer reaches 110℃ (230℉). While the sugar mixture is reaching temperature whip the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Turn the machine off and let them sit until the sugar mixture is ready. When the temperature reaches 110℃ (230℉) turn the mixer back on. With the mixer on medium speed slowly add the sugar syrup to the egg whites continue to beat until the egg whites are stiff and glossy.

Allow the meringue to cool slightly then fold it into the almond mixture. Continue to fold pressing the batter against the bowl to remove some of the air and slightly deflate the batter. The batter should look like slightly runny cake batter.

Put the batter in the prepared pastry bag and pipe neat rounds about 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) across. Whack each pan once or twice on the counter to flatten the macarons slightly and remove air bubbles.

Preheat oven to 350℉ (175℃).

Allow macarons to rest 20-30 minutes to develop a skin so they don't crack when they bake. Touch the top to check. It should feel dry and not sticky. Bake one sheet at a time in the lower third of the oven. Bake for 10-12 minutes. To release any steam that might crack the shells open the oven door twice during baking. The first time after 4 minutes, then again after four more minutes. By then the feet should be formed. The macarons will look dry on top when finished.

Remove from the oven. Carefully move the silicone baking mat or parchment paper onto a cooling rack. If you leave the macarons on the hot pans they will continue to bake. When cool remove from the silicone baking mats or parchment paper. Store in a tin until ready to fill.

Coconut Macaron Shells
Line 4 baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper. Prepare a pastry bag with a large plain tip.3 egg whites, at room temperature (preferably that have been in the refrigerator for several days)
1 1/4 cups (150 g) ground almonds
1 1/3 cups (150 g) confectioner's sugar
1 cup (34 g) unsweetened flaked coconut, plus more for sprinkling on top
3/4 cup (150 g) granulated sugar
1/4 cup (50 ml) water
3 egg whites, at room temperature (preferably that have been in the refrigerator for several days)

Put the ground almonds, confectioner's sugar and coconut in a food processor. Pulse several times to combine and grind the coconut slightly. Move to a bowl large enough to add the meringue to. Pour 3 egg whites over the mixture and set aside. Do not stir.

Put the other 3 egg whites in the bowl of a standing mixer with a whisk attachment. Combine the granulated sugar and water in a small saucepan. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil and continue to cook until a thermometer reaches 110℃ (230℉). While the sugar mixture is reaching temperature whip the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Turn the machine off and let them sit until the sugar mixture is ready. When the temperature reaches 110℃ (230℉) turn the mixer back on. With the mixer on medium speed slowly add the sugar syrup to the egg whites continue to beat until the egg whites are stiff and glossy.

Allow the meringue to cool slightly then fold it into the almond mixture. Continue to fold pressing the batter against the bowl to remove some of the air and slightly deflate the batter. The batter should look like slightly runny cake batter.

Put the batter in the prepared pastry bag and pipe neat rounds about 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) across. Whack each pan once or twice on the counter to flatten the macarons slightly and remove air bubbles. Sprinkle macarons with additional unsweetened flaked coconut before they are allowed to rest and develop a skin.

Preheat oven to 350℉ (175℃).

Allow macarons to rest 20-30 minutes to develop a skin so they don't crack when they bake. Touch the top to check. It should feel dry and not sticky. Bake one sheet at a time in the lower third of the oven. Bake for 10-12 minutes. To release any steam that might crack the shells open the oven door twice during baking. The first time after 4 minutes, then again after four more minutes. By then the feet should be formed. The macarons will look dry on top when finished and the coconut will be slightly toasted.

Remove from the oven. Carefully move the silicone baking mat or parchment paper onto a cooling rack. If you leave the macarons on the hot pans they will continue to bake. When cool remove from the silicone baking mats or parchment paper. Store in a tin until ready to fill.

Combine the sugar and lime zest in a bowl and rub the mixture between your fingers to release the oils from the lime zest.

In a stainless steel bowl whisk together the egg yolks and whole eggs. Add the sugar/lime mixture and whisk to combine. Stir in the lime juice and mango purée.

Fill a medium saucepan 1/3 full of water and bring to a gentle boil. Set the bowl over the pan of gently boiling water. Don't let the boiling water touch the bottom of the bowl. Whisk continuously until very thick, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh strainer into a glass container. Cover with plastic wrap pressed to the surface of the mixture. Refrigerate until very cold.

In the bowl of a standing mixer with a paddle attachment beat the butter for 10 minutes until very light and fluffy. Add the mango lime cream a little at a time beating until the mixture is perfectly smooth. Put the mixture in a piping bag fitted with a large plain tip. Pipe a generous amount of mango lime cream on a lime or coconut shell top with the opposite shell.

Allow the macarons to sit in the refrigerator for several hours. Remove just before serving. Left over macarons can be stored in an airtight container for 2-3 days or freeze for longer storage from 2 weeks to a month. If frozen allow to come to room temperature before serving.

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

I found myself staring at a large basil plant at the grocery store recently. It was so green and lovely I just had to purchase it. I sat it by my brightly lit kitchen window where it patiently waited to be used.

I adore nuts and have a large assortment stashed in a drawer in my refrigerator. As I rummaged through them I spied a bag of pistachio nuts. Hmm, I thought, the pistachios and the lush basil might make a nice pesto. It turned out I was right. The rich green pistachios perfectly complemented the piquant basil and salty Parmesan cheese with a healthy dose of good-quality olive oil rounding out the flavors.

I drizzled the pesto on roasted fingerling potatoes, but it would be just as nice tossed with pasta or roasted vegetables. The rich, creamy flavor would enhance just about anything savory. I have to admit I had a hard time not putting the pesto on everything on my plate.

Grind the pistachio nuts in a food processor or blender until finely ground.

Gently wash and dry the basil. Remove the leaves and discard the stems. Put in the food processor or blender on top of the ground nuts. Add the freshly grated Parmesan cheese and a nice fat garlic clove.

Use the pulse button a few times to chop the ingredients. With the machine running slowly add the olive oil through the feed tube. Stop to scrap down the sides of the bowl a few times and check the pesto's consistency.

Put the pistachio nuts in a food processor or blender and process until finely ground. Add basil, Parmesan cheese, and garlic pulse until chopped. With the machine running slowly add the olive oil process until the mixture is the desired consistency. Scrap down the sides of the bowl a few times to make sure all the ingredients are incorporated.

Toss with cooked pasta, roasted potatoes or vegetables. Store left-over pesto in a glass jar in the refrigerator. The pesto will keep for several days.