Acneic Skin

Health Area > Type of Skin

Acne is a very common affection between the ages of 12 and 22 and hits twice as many women as men; 80 % of adolescents are involved. There is no ethnic group that is not included; it occurs commonly in the family and is characterized by a seborrhoic habitus: seborrhoea can exist often without acne, but acne never occurs without seborrhoea. Most people associate acne with being a teen-ager. It is, after all, a skin disease that commonly occurs during adolescence. At puberty hormonal activity increases, causing the oil (sebaceous) glands in the skin to become more active. These glands begin to secrete sebum, an oily substance that works its way up from the hair follicle to the skin's surface. Under normal conditions, the result is oily skin.With acne, however, the pores of the skin (which serve as the gland's outlets) become plugged with sebum and other materials, such as pigment, dead cells, and bacteria. If the plug (comedo) remains just beneath the skin, it appears on the surface as a very small, round, whitish bump, often called a whitehead. When the comedo reaches the skin's surface, it looks like a black dot, commonly known as a blackhead. Both "blackheads" and "whiteheads" may remain in the skin for a long time. In some mild cases, they are almost the only manifestation of acne.In other cases the plugged follicle may eventually burst, or the oily contents may seep into the surrounding skin. This causes inflammation. The result can be the formation of small or large, solid bumps, pus pimples, or even cavities containing a sticky fluid (cysts).Excessive sebum production, androgenic stimulation, the blocking of pilo-sebaceous gland ducts due to hyperkeratinization, and the production of enzymes due to anaerobes (corynebacterium) and aerobes (staphylococcus epidermis, pityrosporum ovale) result in triglyceride hydrolysis into free fatty acids which are local irritants, These are the basic causes of comedons, blemishes and pustules, the typical polymorphic, acne vulgaris lesions. There are still outside influences that come into play. Probably foremost is stress. Severe or prolonged emotional tension may aggravate acne. That's why acne may aften flare up before examinations or under the stress of a new exeperience,such as starting college. In girls, acne may also get work shortly before menstruation because of the influence of hormonal factors.Many cosmetics, especially some cleansing creams and moisturizers, have greasy bases that can aggravate acne. Even certain "brillantines" used on the hair may drip onto the forehead and help cause blackheads. However, contrary to popular belief, cosmetics don't actually plug the pore or follicular opening. They apparently alter the cells of the follicle, making them more likely to stick together and form plugs or comedones. It is propably best to use as few cosmetics as possible, and wearing cosmetics, use non oily water-based types. (One exception might be the cosmetics used to cover acne blemshes. They are usually made of a liquid base and powder and seldom cause any harm).The correct use of Vitamin A acid, benzoyl-peroxide, anti-microbial drugs (antibiotics, antiseptics), azelaic and alpha hydroxy acids and phosphatidyl choline linoleic acid-rich will improve local treatment. Most authors agree that the best therapy should be based on tetracyclines, its derivatives or the use of zinc. Tetracycline acts on the cornybacterium by blocking the lipases. Zinc blocks the enzyme that converts testosterone into its dihydro derivative, the uncontrolable cause of the seborrhoea and the limited sebum production. Acne therapy has been done to eliminate iatrogenic effects (iodine, barbiturates, isoniazides, vitamin B6 and B12) work causes, (chlorine, mineral oils, tars) contact (cashmere, woollen clothing) dietetic causes, (carbohydrates, processed meats and chocolate) and cosmetic causes (comedogenic fats, solar protecting oils, synthetic soaps and medications). Also this type of skin should be treated appropriately by regularly using specific masks and detergents, as well as day and night creams, which absorb fats and rebalance all cutaneous secretions.