Peak Climbing in Nepal » Nirekha Peak Climbing (6169 m.)

Nirekha Peak is Located in the Mahalangur Region, deep in the Himalayas, close to the Tibetan border and hidden among the well-known giants of Everest, Cho Oyu just E of the Cho La Pass.

The normal ascent to the Nirekha Peak Climbing is a great and - depending on the conditions - difficult climb, at difficulty AD+/D-. Only experienced climbers should attempt this route, though it is partially saved with fixed ropes.

The summit consists of two summit pyramids. It is unclear which one is higher. Clearly the N summit is easier, but requires crossing a difficult crevasse, while the S summit requires one pitch in steep (50°) ice. The Kanchung BC is the preferable starting point; from the lake camp it is hardly doable in one day. Both ascents are scenically beautiful.

The first ascent was done by Matt Fioretti and Greg Valentine in April 2003. Climbing Nirekha Peak, the second ascent was done by an all women team in October 2003.