Overview

This is the prominent spire on the southern tip of Tioman Island. It stands about 1200 feet tall and was first climbed by Scotty Nelson and NicK Tomlin in August 2000. In August 2002 the Malaysian team of Sharin, Roszaman, Abdullah Danial, A l-Haleq and Akmal made the second ascent of the peak.

Update: In 2004, the route was freed at 5.13a by Dave Sharratt and Hank Jones! Read the TR here

Getting There

To get to the Dragon's Horns, either take the ferry from Mersing or Singapore (4 hours) to the Berjaya resort on the west coast of Pulau Tioman.

From here hire a speedboat (1 hour, $50-75) or catch a fishing boat (slow but cheap) to the charming Kampung Mukut, located on the southern tip of the island.

If you take a catamaran from Mersing it takes only 2-3 hours or speedboat 1 1/2 hours to Mukut village ( fees from RM50-70 return)

From here the Dragon's Horns tower sabove the village. Follow the shoreline to some huts on stilts, then take the established path up the hill. When this ends, cut left through dense brush until a ravine/riverbed is reached. Follow this up to the base of the wall, then skirt left up along the base of the wall (steep jungle) until an obvious high point is reached. This is the start of Waking Dream.

Red Tape

None

When To Climb

The monsoon season runs November - January. The best time to go is April - September.

Miscellaneous Info

Photos from the first ascent:
http://www.geocities.com/s1nelson2000

Story from the second ascent:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/index.php?id=133