Comments: Just repeated this route this past weekend, cementing the vivid memories of why this is my all-time favorite alpine route and a contender for my overall favorite route.

Crossing the snow field in running shoes definitely puts you in the right frame of mind for the rest of the route! Run out and not looking forward to a fall. Unlike Crusher, I really like the first pitch, the face climbing being more interesting than the crack climbing on this pitch.

Comments: Don't place too much faith in Rossiter's topo (or Gillette's either) for this excellent route. On the fourth pitch (crossing the hole) Rossiter doesn't show a bolt, but the bolt is where it says 10a on the topo (There's also two fixed pins). I ended up too far left and had to traverse to the belay (now just a single pin w/ slings). Fifth pitch (labeled 10c hand traverse) is really a mantle move. Seems everyone but the guidebook authors agrees that the crux of the sixth pitch (11d) is getting fro... more >>

P2 is about 125' to an arbitrary hanging belay, with well aged anchors. If anyone ever replaces the anchors, please, please move the anchors! This pitch ends in the middle of the crack, no features what so ever to stand on. There appears to be a natural small ledge about 15-20' higher (on easier ground).

Gear: The largest piece of gear that I placed on the 2nd pitch was a .5 camalot. Lots of stoppers (#1 - #7 rock, double or triples), 1 green alien, thr... more >>

Comments: Actually there's a pretty good rest between the fourth and fifth bold (or is it 3rd & 4th?) before the crux sequence. Seems like there are multiple versions of the start. I started just below the first bolt (aka on the left), grabbed the mail slot below the bolt, then moved right. Double clutch off the left hand gaston to a good small hold above, then its pretty reasonable. Crux moves are thin -- think feet, and there's still a sting in the tail at the end. Enjoyable!

Comments: While "The Apple Bites Back" is a nice route, I wouldn't give it three stars. I think its a one star route, that's very long (by Shelf standards, especially the Contest Wall) so perhaps two stars. The route is fairly continuous, but no single moves feels like 11c (more like 11a to me).

The second bolt is poorly placed (typical of Shelf old-school). If you fell clipping the second bolt it could be ugly, but the moves are pretty easy.

Comments: To me the obvious way to do this route is more like 11c/d, no where near the given 12b/c which seems contrived.

Don't read if you don't want the beta: From the horn on the right below the roof, reach up high and left w/ the left hand to the crips above the corner on your left. Match right heel to right hand, heel hook until both hands are higher. This avoids the open hand moves above the first overhang. Seemed very obvious to not utilize this hold. Could I be off route? Hard to argue since you'... more >>

Comments: To continue the controversy, I have to agree with Chris Archer. Yesterday my partner and I both lead ADK and RD. I thought RD was considerably easier (inspite of climbing ADK first), and would agree with the 12a move. Perhaps I was just having a really good day, but I thought the lower vertical section(12b indicated on topo) was pretty straight forward, 11d/12a.

My partner thought they were more similar in difficulty with the edge going to RD.

Comments: Actually there are two protection possibilities. The first is as described (blue Alien) the second is about four feet higher, left on the arete about the height of the flake on the face. This finger pocket will take a well placed (but slightly tight) yellow Alien. With both pieces in place I felt this climb was reasonably well protected.

When Steve refers to the Doubious-Grafitti variation, I believe he is referring to the traditional third pitch. Although it is possible to link the second and ... more >>

Comments: The 11a alternate start is highly recommended. Start about six feet to the left of the 5.9 start at a thin crack which starts about 5 feet off the ground and runs for about 8 feet.

Step up and place small nuts as high as possible. Clipping directly to the nuts is recommended. Move left and up diagonally to the right to regain the top of the thin crack. From here move slightly right and continue with the remainder of the first pitch.

Comments: The final pitch is most definitely NOT S. I place three good nuts before clipping the pin in the undercling. And thinking the S section might be coming later I sewed up the rest of the route.

I also believe the first pitch (10b) to be more technical than the last pitch (rated 10c). The last pitch is long and somewhat pumpy, but probably more like 10a/b than 10c.

Comments: I agree that a larger piece (#3.5 or #4 Friend) make the first pitch much easier.

From the belay tree the second pitch is the large right facing dihedral to your left. Straight above you is the second pitch of Chianti.

After topping out, if you look to your right and down about 30-40 you should see the rappel anchors. Climb around the backside to the anchors. Rappel down to another set of anchors, then youll end up on a ledge by the start of the Unsaid. Traverse back towards the st... more >>