For the moment it took just some hours of my free time.. not easy to find but i’m not in a hurry :) The FDM tests cost me nothing (printer of a friend).

The first SLA protype cost me 11€... I expect it in few days.It’s a « multijet fusion » printing, I invite you to watch some videos about this technic

The advantage is that when the object will be good (and I hope that the first prototype in SLA will be :D ) I’ll be able to print the part as many times as I want...

Note that my proto lab has also the possibility to « laser cut » the object in metal and it’s not very expensive compared to the original part sold by few guys on eBay...It’s a possibility when I’ll be 100% sure of my 3D draw

Coming from this page: http://www.n6eaj.com/diyaudio/ac3rfmod/ac3rfmod.html

With some breadboard it will be fairly simple to build. I also investigated adding SPDIF to my CLD 3760KV but since it doesn't support PAL I decided to add AC3-RF to my CLD 2950. I found this during my research:

It obviously starts w/ needing points for the player to do either of the mods.

For AC3-RF, I assume the 4400 is very similar to the 4300 (don't hold me to it; just guessing since they look very similar) of which we have the service manual available here....

http://manuals.lddb.com/LD_Players/Pioneer/LD/LD-V4300D/

If you go to page 16 of the pdf, it appears to show where many of the points for the mod are located (e.g.: RF, +5V, -5V, and GND are located on connector CN1 and Mute appears to be on connector CN16 or CN18). Not sure if this 4400 is a Mute Active High (MAH) or Mute Active Low (MAL) player since it appears to be a PAL capable machine which are usually MAL (this makes a difference since a mod board needs to be built for either design).

Once you know that information, then you need to build the AC3-RF board. This is the version I made for my Pro-Scan player...

https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=7827

This board is made specifically for an MAH player.

Moving on to the S/PDIF output, you can buy a kit from ebay to make this job easier but you'll still need to get the information on where the digital output resides in the player. Once again, going back to the service manual, page 24 of the manual shows the AudB board and the digital output appears to be located on IC-306, pin 60 (DOUT). You'll also need to verify if pin 59 (MD2) is pushing 5VDC as this indicates if the digital output is switched on for the chip (a reading of 0VDC means it's off but I believe you just need to jump 5v to it to get it turned on).

Anyway... here is the digital output kit that I will be using for my digital out mod on my CLD-M90....

Could be a bad RPM sensor. If the motor bearings went bad the RPM slotted ring can drop down on the RPM sensor rub the plastic casing until it covers the hole or the sensor could be bad. If good then it is a disc reading issue or bad electronics.

In most cases I would think it’s already powered as my CLD-M90 is powered already. Just make sure to use a voltmeter in continuity mode to trace out from pin 59 and then take the measurement from where a larger pin is located on the board (just to avoid shorting out the chip).

Curious to see the boards arrive. The cable would be included. Fair price for a decent boards.

Haven’t used mine yet but i’m sure it will work fine. I’m probably going to use a different RCA jack for my mod as I don’t like the size of the one provided. Also, trying to figure out a method to cut out a square opening so I can also run the optical output. And yes, the coax cable is included.

At first I thought it was a factory output and then I noticed the back panel was transplanted. I wouldn't mind doing something like this for my M90 mod but I don't have any spare parts like that lying around. When I get a chance to start on my mod, I'll create a detailed post on it.

Good to know that your digital out on the chip will work on the LD-V4400.

Wow... you work fast ;) . And nice work on the mod. I like the way you implemented the back panel; gives me some ideas for my upcoming mod.

Hope you didn’t actually try to solder the wire directly to the leg of the chip for the digital output. If so, that’s much harder. I always look for a bigger point that makes continuity with the pin on a chip.

Soldered it straight to the leg :? Didn’t investigate the sihnal path but the next one I’ll do that.Not sure if it does have a signal path actually :?: It was trial and error soldering on a scrap board to get the hang of it.

As long as you did not damage it, you should be good.

In any case, most larger chips (especially from yesterday's electronics) will have an obvious signal path that is usually easy to follow with a good eye and a voltmeter set to continuity mode to verify the path.

Here is an example of the DSP chip off of my CLD-M90....

https://i.vgy.me/k4aU8k.jpg

It makes it so much easier to solder to the pin that my voltmeter probe is touching in the pic. :)