Bouzoukia Known as skyladika, or doghouses, devotees flock to these temples of kitsch (many lining Piraeus Street and Iera Odos) to worship a modern pantheon of Greek pop stars. “A noisy but uniquely Greek experience. Go late for the headliner; choose the singer, not the venue—Vasilis Karras, Yiannis Ploutarhos, Natassa Theodoridou, and Katy Garby have staying power.”—Diane Shugart, author, Athens by Neighborhood.

HerodesAtticus Theater “Sitting in this ancient, open-air theater under the Acropolis on a moonlit summer evening, watching modern dance or an opera, is one of life’s great experiences.”—Sofka Zinovieff, author, Eurydice Street: A Place in Athens. When Pausanias visited Athens, he described the ‘Herodion’ as “the finest building of its type.” Dionysiou Areopagitou; tel. 30 210 324 1807. www.greekfestival.gr

Open-Air Cinemas “A highlight of summer evenings. Scented by jasmine, watched by neighbors on their balconies, attended by all ages who eat, drink, and smoke their way through the movie. You couldn’t be anywhere but Athens and wouldn’t want to be.”—Sofka Zinovieff. Venues all over town. Open May-Oct.

Stoa ton Athanaton “Right in the central market, great for anyone who wants a rembetiko (Greek blues) experience, but is not a late owl.”—Diane Shugart. Created by disillusioned, dope-smoking refugees from Asia Minor. Sophokleous 19; tel. 30 210 321 4362.

AthensClassic Marathon Early November. Athletes retrace the 26-mile (42-kilometer) route run by a soldier in 490 B.C. to announce Athenians’ defeat of the Persians in the battle of Marathon. He died on the spot. Finish line at Panathenaic Stadium, venue of the first modern Olympics in 1896. www.athensclassicmarathon.gr

BabelComics Festival June. International and Greek comic artists (Philippe Druillet, Paolo Cossi) on display at Technopolis, former gasworks converted into an arts center.

Music Day June 21-23. Free al fresco concerts all over town, from folk musicians to Greek pop bands to music from the city’s ethnic communities. www.musicday.gr