Although I have LR, I tend to use ACR within Photoshop because of its convenience. Considering that the nodules and sliders are the same, it's all transferable between LR and ACR. Of course, I'm referring to shooting RAW. Sure you can set it to run your JPG's through LR or ACR, but remember, JPG files have very little headroom because of their compression - and keep in mind that every time you work on and subsequently save a JPG image (as a JPG again), it will compress again, losing more and more info each time you save.

I tend to shoot in RAW, make my adjustments and then save the finished image as a TIF file. From there I can create JPG's (which I only do for web posting).

My ideal settings for the E-M10 (doesn't make a difference if it's Mk I through III) are:

BASIC TAB (AREA):

Exposure - adjust to tastes if needed

Contrast - 15

Hi-Lights - adjust to taste to pull back overly bright areas.

Shadows - adjust to taste to bring out detail in shadow areas

Saturation - 10

Vibrance - 10

I don't mess with the rest of the sliders in that tab (or area).

LENS CORRECTIONS TAB (AREA):

Remove Chromatic Aberration (check that box)

Now go to the manual tab/section also and look at the Defrindge section.

Move the purple slider to taste as you'll often find just checking the "remove chromatic abberation" box won't always do the trick.

Also adjust the "vignetting" slider to the right - move slowly - and you'll see that just about all lenses have vignetting of some type. Oftentimes folks will ignore this slider, but moving it (while you are looking at the edges in your image) will open your eyes as you see areas being brought out.

SHARPENING TAB (AREA):

Amount - 25 (the new LR or ACR has set by default to 40 - at least it did on mine). But set it to 25. CAUTION - sharpening is the area where many folks screw up big time. People seemingly believe that come what may, sharpening "must" be done and they often overdo it, thus ruining an image. Over-sharpening results in images that have a grainy effect (scratchy if you will).

Radius - 1.0

Detail - 50 (this area is the secret for bringing out detail and folks often ignore this slider).

Masking - 10

Luminance NR - begin at 15 and work up from there. 15 is ideal for sunny days, whereas more noise may be present in the background on darker, overcast days. On those darker, overcast scenarios I'll bring it to 20 or 25.

I won't touch anything else under this area unless I have to deal with images taken at ISO's ranging from 1600 to 6400 (i.e. in dark conditions, or at night).

TRANSFORM TOOL TAB (AREA):

This is an area often overlooked (or ignored) by folks. It's the area where you adjust for perspective distortions, as each lens brings something different to the table. Here you should experiment with sliders to straight room walls, exterior of buildings, etc. I cannot even begin to tell you the difference this section can make to an image. All too often some folks will allow severe perspective distortions to remain in an image. Of course, the only negative here when adjusting for these distortions is that you have to adjust your "scale" slider in order to hide the white areas of the frame that resulted after the adjustments have been made. This then zooms in your image a big more (although the file size is the same).

Here are several samples of images taken with wide angle lenses - and due to severe perspective distortions that accompany wide angle lenses, adjustments had to be made. The end results however, show that all lines have been straightened (for the most part), but the scene was made smaller (narrower) as you adjusted the scale slider to remove the white areas that resulted from the adjustments. Sorry - but these were taken with the Canon EOS M (18 MP's) along with their superb EOS EF-M 11-22 wide angle zoom lens. If the perspective distortions weren't corrected for, each scene would have had a much wider angle look in the image.

In the end, you should look at each scene (image) and try to provide balance in the frame. Don't over-think things out because this is where you can ruin an image big time. When you shoot in RAW mode you can revisit images time and time again with no loss in their quality. Can't do that with JPG's - that's for sure.

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