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Topic: 27 gallon gas tank install on 16 SC (Read 7069 times)

I’m preparing to install my new 27 gallon fuel tank I purchased from the factory. I have the 2 portable 6 gallon tanks in there currently. JChaser was kind enough to send me some pics and advice on his install as he has the same boat and did the same fuel tank swap. I want to have all the parts I need in hand before I start and have a couple questions.1) do I really need a racor fuel filter? I trailer my boat and get gas at a local busy Chevron gas station. The boat is also stored in my garage so not exposed to extreme temp variances and humidity/moisture. Or would a glass filter on the fuel line be sufficient? I’m trying to keep my cost down but at the same time would pay for the racor if needed 2) Do I have to rinse or flush the new tank before install in case of possible dirt or plastic shavings from the manufacturing process? If yes, what would I use to flush it with? Not water I would thinkAppreciate any more advice you guys could give me before I get started.

You need a replaceable filter of some kind, that filters down to 10 microns (for a fuel injected engine). Inline filter not good enough for a fuel injected motor. They don't catch small enough particles, and they don't have any ability to filter water.

Racor is the best, both due to how well they filter and the bowl that lets you see if you have crap in your fuel. Cheaper Moeller/Sierra canister styles work to, just change them religiously as they will rust if water-contaminated fuel sits in them.

It's easy to get a slug of rusty, nasty water in your tank from a bad gas station or marina fuel pump.

You probably have two on-board filters, a high and low pressure. "Small" is the operative word. They may require a partial tear down of the engine to service.

The idea behind the Moellers or Racors is they are easy to service and replace, have a lot more filtering capacity, and can be serviced on the water. The elements are cheap (though the complete Racor housing and fuel bowl is not).

With the Racor's, you can see contamination in the fuel bowl. Open the petcock at the bottom of the bowl and drain the filter to get it out, then re-prime and you are good to go (assuming the filter element itself isn't fully clogged with gunk).

The oil-can styles are designed to be changed frequently (I used to do mine twice a year on the Arima, before I switched to Racor). I replace Racor elements once a year.

Fisher; Listen to Threeweight! You need a 10 micron filter........either the Racor or canister will do. Those internal motor filters won't save you. I have the canister style and change it once a year. Mine does fine, but I have good "fuel habits". I'd mount the filter on the inside.......above the fuel tank and against that narrow starboard panel.

Your going to need hoses. West Marine can advise you on that and has it by the foot. Make sure you double clamp the fill hose and "loop" the vent hose in such a way that it doesn't trap water. If your boat didn't come with a factory tank, then you'll (obviously) have to drill some holes. Before drilling, get the parts first. You don't want to go oversize on these. Also, remember, when drilling in fiberglass, start those bits in "reverse". Finally, if you have any questions regarding the accurate location of the fill and vent holes; a call to Arima would probably be your safest bet.

I got the install kit from Arima as well. Has all hoses, clamps, vent, and sending unit. About that loop on the vent hose, I remember reading different opinions on that here or somewhere else. Are you saying a standard Loop on the vent hose? I don’t think the vent hose they gave me is long enough for that. It also has the vent pre installed on the hose

If it is a trap-style vent that keeps water out, you can probably skip the loop. The idea behind the loop is to prevent water from getting into the vent hose and then into the tank. If you do use a loop, it should be an overhand loop, like this, so fuel can't pool in a low point.

Ok thank you guys! JC, do you recall the size hole saw you used for the fill and vent? I have the same gas cap/fill as you do with the red cap. I will mount in same location. I want to make sure I get that hole right. If it’s too small it would be difficult to make it larger with no pilot hole

Your boat will love you for it!!! That's one of the best and cheapest major upgrades you can make for your boat's reliability. Get the Stainless Steel head (yes, it's more money but the aluminum model corrodes in the damp darkness behind the starboard), and carry a spare filter and bowl along with an oil filter wrench that fits the filter size in your tool kit in case the filter gets overwhelmed by a large load of water from a bad fuel station. You just about need a vise and a pipe wrench to remove the bowl from the filter after it's been on there for a year.

Thanks for the advice Mark. I will make sure to keep a spare filter and some more tools in my box. My wife is usually the one to sign for all my packages I have delivered and always says “what did you buy for the boat now!” If I had an explorer vs a sea chaser I’d probably be sleeping in it!

I don’t have a fuel gauge yet but I do have the sending unit pre-installed in my fuel tank. Should I leave the ground wire from the sending unit connected to the negative battery terminal even though I don’t have the gauge just to make sure it’s grounded and just cap off the pink wire from the sending unit until I get the gauge installed? Thx

I’m going to have to run 90 degree fittings from the racor fuel filter cause there’s just not enough room to avoid kinked fuel hoses. Most of the time consumed is from running around trying to find specific parts I need