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E23CS78DSS3 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for E23CS78DSS3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.

Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.

icemaker stopped making ice

Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle.A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.

The ice dispenser would only dispense crushed ice, Fridge door cluncked when opening and closing

For the ice dispenser, I read a blog that pointed me right to the solenoid that controls the linkage for the crushed /cubed ice.I first unplugged the fridge. Then removed the ice maker basket. Removed 2 ea screws from each side of the supports of the lower brackets. Then lifted the tray assy off the mounting bracket, moving the front of the bracket down you can then unhook the power/control connector. The tray then comes right out. Once out you remove two screws that hold a plastic plate on. With this removed you can see the solenoid that actuates the linkage for the ice cube and crushed ice. You then remove 2 ea machine screws that hold the solenoid in. Remove grd. wire. and pull power wires off tabs. You can then remove the solenoid by sliding it out of the plastic retainer. With it out you install the new plunger and reassemble in the reverse order. 15 mins tops.

The main Refidgerator door, made a cluncking sound. Lube didn't help. I removed the door by removing the top screw from the plastic cover, then slide it forward, then remove the two screws that hold the hinge on and then lifting the door off, once off the lower nylon hinge bearing comes right out of the door, the plate is removed with a screw driver. Installed in reverse order and cluncking was gone. 10 mins

Nylon door hinge bearing on the bottom of refrigerator door broke

First I removed the contents from the door. Second, I removed the exposed bolt on the top hinge(per the manual instructions) and then I removed the plastic hinge cover. Up next was to remove the remaining two bolts from the top hinge. I should, at this point, say it is much easier to have someone help steady the door for you so it doesn't fall off the refrigerator. Now remove the door and the old nylon bearing. Replace with the new bearing and replace the door. This repair couldn't have been easier.

no water to ice maker or water dispenser

pulled fridge from wall, removed card board cover, unplug the fridge. turn the water off to the fridge. remove the water source from fridge first then remove 2 screws that hold the valve. then the wire plugs. hoses.. they were color coded.

Loud thump/cracking noise when opening door.

Upright refrigerator/freezer. Damage was on refrigerator side door- lower hinge. Removed everything from inside fridge door. Removed plastic protector plate on top of door hinge with phillips screwdriver. Pulled out top hinge and removed door. Undid two small screws holding bottom bearing hinge bracket. Took out chewed up old bearing hinge. Cleaned bracket of debris. Attached bracket with screws. Inserted new bearing hinge. Put door back on fridge, re-attached top hinge and protective cap. (Still trying not to cringe out of habit when opening the door)

Icemaker would not eject ice from tray

After three years of cussing this 5-year old fridge for not ejecting the ice, and having to reach in and pull it out by hand, I fixed it with $100 and five minutes. Worse, I probably could have gotten Sears to honor the warranty and replace it when it first started acting up.

Repair could not have been easier. Loosened the two screws/fasteners with 1/4" drive socket set (straight-slot screwdriver wouldn't bite in the shallow slot). Do not remove screws completely; assy lifts up and off the screws for removal. Turn the unit slightly, unclip the electrical connector and remove. Installation is the reverse. Ensure assy sits flush on the screws to assure tray is level.

Although I probably could/should have unplugged the fridge first, I did not. I made sure the ice maker assy was off prior to installation to keep it from cycling on as I attached the ice maker electrical connector, which is before the remounting procedure.

Now it's making so much ice I have to find the plastic shelf cover for the ice bin to keep it from overflowing (which also helps move the ice level bar up to temporarily suspend ice production).

Thru-the-door water actuator (paddle) broken

1) - removed the water tray.2) - removed the three (3) screws hidden by water tray.3) - removed entire dispenser faceplate by carefully sliding it up, and then pulling it outCAUTION: there is a ribbon wire connector between the faceplate and the dispenser unit; carefully disconnect.4) - removed screws retaining the dispenser unit in the door.5) - disconnect water tube (exit) from the dispenser unit and remove dispenser unit.6) - carefully disconnect water actuator (paddle) two-wire electrical connector.7) - remove two small metal "hinge-cover" plates that retain the water actuator (paddle) and remove actuator.8) - install new water actuator (paddle), reinstall the two small "hinge-cover" plates, connect the two-wire electrical connector, make sure the return-spring is connected to the new water actuator (paddle).9) - HERE IS THE HARDEST PART - as you reinstall the dispender unit into the door, make sure to reinstall the VERY short water tube back through the dispenser opening - long, skinny fingers would be very helpful.10) - The remaining reinstallation is pretty straight-forward (the reverse of removal).

Water valve had broken

Repair was very easy - and to my great delight, they have replaced the old-style compression fittings with PEX push-fittings. You just clip the old compression ring and nut off the tubing and insert the tubing firmly into the fitting. SNAP! VOILA! PEX fittings are the greatest things since sliced bread. I used it to plumb my new house.

Ice maker wouldn't change from crushed to cubed ice

First I pulled the ice tray out so I could see the solenoid housing/ice tray support(1 unit). Below the ice tray there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid housing/ice tray support. After removing those the assembly lifts up so you can see the wiring harness to disconnect. I pulled it out and removed the 2 screws to open it up. There is 2 screws holding the solenoid in place and one ground wire. This was an easy fix and I know I saved a lot of money.

Water leak

Unplug turn water offRemoved two screws with nut driver loosen oneDisconnected three solenoid valves Disconnected four water linesPlug tubing in, tighten one flare fittingReattach wires to solenoidsSlide under loose screw, replace two screwsTurn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water

WATER WASN'T FILLING ICE TRAY TO MAKE ICE.

UNPLUGED THE ITEM. TURNED OFF THE WATER SOURCE. REMOVED THE CARD BOARD COVER. DIS-CONNECTED THE WATER HOSES. UNPLUGED THE CONNETORS. MATCHED UP THE COLORES AND PUT IT BACK TOGETHER, VERY EASY. EVERYTHINGS WAS COLOR CODED.

Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.