There are diners, and then there's Lester's. Everything about this place is a matter of superlatives: It's one of the oldest dining establishments in the county, dating back to the late '60s. It's one of the biggest, with a back dining room that seems to extend to the horizon. And its menu is one of the heaviest, featuring every breakfast food you can imagine and some you didn't know were possible. (Who puts pizza sauce on an omelet?) There's also Italian, Greek, and weird American. (The continental burger is topped with an egg and cocktail sauce.) Lester's is open all the time, which makes it a great alternative to Denny's. The late-night crowds attest to that. While more expensive than Denny's — by about $3 to $5 a plate — Lester's tastes better, looks better, and just feels better.

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