I would like some help in painting a ea/eb car im about to get. I want to resrpay the whole car in a space blue(deep blue),would i have to sand the panels back to bare metal or can i give it a quick sand just to roughen it up then spray a ???special primer that can go over the old paint and the spray the new color after the primers set. And how many coats of primer,paint color and clear coat should i do,i was thinking 2,3,4 ??? It will be done in 2pac in the back shed(bigs sealed shed). I heard 2pac needs and oven???? Please help !!! hehe

Mate I'm new to exterior painting too, but I'd suggest that with something like you would be best to consult a panelbeater. It's impossible to sorta tell you what to do and what not to do without seeing the car - it might have rust which will need ot be prepped and primed, it could have chipped paint or sealant or whatever. I'd say your best bet is to take it to a panelbeater, explain to him what you wanna do, and in the long run you may find its worth getting them to do the job, as the chances of a stuff up and runs in the paint etc. is minimal, and if it does happen it's their obligation to fix it.

ok ea eb falcons are painted in baked acrylic you will need a product called transparent sealer to seal the paint if you do not want to sand to bare metal, then you,ll need to prime the car in decent 2 pac primer ,then rub down before top coat .
as for needing booth yes you do get a better job but as long as your shed ios clean and you wet down the floor you should be pretty right .
the warmer weather is here and as long as you don,t paint the car on extremely hot day you will be fine.
but don,t paint on extremely cold days either as 2 pac stops curing at 19 degrees and is suseptible to runs on lower temps .
the best temp is 25 - 30 degrees .
if ya need any more info pm me as i am qualified spraypainter living not to far from you .

If you have no rust or dents gtq get some 600 grade sandpaper wet and dry ;some soap and clean water a clean cloth and start rubbing.Start at the roof and rub till you get the shine off the paintwork.Try not to rub through and clean each panel as you go or it will go hard and chalky.Try to use a rubber sanding block if not dont finger rub.That is keep your fingers togetherand your palm flat.Then mask up this will take bloody hours wipe the surface down with some prepsol(wax and grease remover) using one clean cloth to put on and one to dry off and then u r ready.2pac will go straight over your original paintwork as long as acrylic thinners was used .If its been resprayed before in enamel with enamel thinners you will have to put a sealer on or it will lift.2pac uses acrylic thinners so it wont react if the original paint is on there.No need to prime only if you have done repairs.Make sure your shed is clean and as said before hose down floor and you can also hose down the roof the day before.Youll be amazed at the amount of shit that comes off the ceiling.Let it dry proper before you take off the masking tape.Ive been a spraypainter for 19 yrs .Goodluck mate.

Gasser, I'm was under the impression the EA falcon is painted in 2 Pack. Why would you bake acrylic?? Also I would never do a full respray with 2 pack in a shed. Unless you have correct airflow everything will stick to the paint, this happend to me and the guy who supplies me paint! You should be able to hire a booth for less than $100.

Also there is nothing wrong with spraying in too much heat, thats what "slow" hardner is for, unless the humidity is extreme.

Also if you want to prep it quickly you can use red scotchbrite pads after "wax and grease" removing the whole car. That works quite well for quickie paint jobs.

not ford ,
ea-ab were the last of the baked acrlic enamel they w3eren,t really 2pac but rather a sorta combo that ford were trying .
the 2 pac today is a urethane based in most cases where the combo ford used on ea was a acylic based product .
ford then going to full urethane in el on falcons .that is why ea-eb falcons paint ages badly if not looked after.
as for painting in heat it is quite apparent that you have not tried to do a decent metallic job in above average heat as the base coat can be a nightmare when it doesn,t get time to flow the mottle out of the job.

this being the reason to steer him away from doing the above as he is a new comer to painting didn,t want him to have any dramas .
most paints will have optimum temp to be sprayed at on the tin .
also red scotch brite is the same as 400-600 grit paper a little on the scratchy side for some colours so be a little wary when doing this .

k well i started striping it and have done a little test peice(behind bumper)and it went great.nice smooth strong color.I love pulling the car to bits.I've removed all the rear parts and front parts(bumpers light ect) and have now started the insides and doors.
How would i go about filling the dents on the panels and preping the engine bay for painting(its dirty and the battery bits rusty).Thanks in advance!!!

The XC is going to get a new coat of shiny stuff soon.
I do like the comments from CLARKEY on the respary.
The paint will be identical to the current colour but just for fun (also undercoat has bubbled) I will take it back to baremetal. I didn't reall want to have to strip the car back to rolling shell, can it still be sandblasted? And if so, what sort of money can I be expecting to fork out.

I'd want the panel work to be done by a p.beater, would it be easier to take it back to bare metal, then have the work done or have it done straight away?

Looks like the physical spraying isn't that hard, as long as you are fluent and are using all the right products and ratios. I've seen a few fords come up a treat with a shitty old beaver. But I would go out and purchase a proper compressor and gun to complete the job.

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