I've carried an AI hull, plus an O.K. Malibu 2 (about 4kg lighter than the AI), together on my Forester. The issue isn't really the strength of the racks or rails, so much as the rollover potential with that much weight up high. I've taken it slowly and not encountered any problems. My main concern has been that if I was involved in an accident, I may be considered culpable for carrying a load in excess of the manufacturer's specs.

No Problem! Yakima Mako Saddles. Strap the ama's to the cross bars of the boat, put the sail underneath the boat. Bingo! You've got two AI's on top of your car. This picture shows an AI and a Revolution, but it will work for two AI's. You might be over weight on your roof rack limit, but that usually has more to do with the stability of your car in an emergency manoeuvre than the strength of the rack. I don't encourage you to overload your rack, but I'm just answering your question.

My loading technique SHOULD have been to get one of those bars that slides out the side of the Yakima Bars, that would have made it easy. Or, I should have used your system with that suction cup thingy.

However, when you're taking two boats, you have two people. This was pretty simple. Strap the Ama's onto the main kayak. Get the second person to lift the stern of the boat while I lifted the front. Walk beside the car with the bow about equal to the front kayak rack (saddle). Lift the bow of the boat onto that rack, get the second person at the stern of the boat to walk forward, which will slide the boat forwards, when the weight balances out, you lift the back end up, and position it front to back by sliding it on the Mako Saddles. Many people don't know that the Yakima Mako Saddles have an optional custom fit felt pad that you can attach to the saddles. It's meant to protect the boat, but it's perfect for helping it slide front to back.

From there, you secure the straps which are already pre-loaded into the saddles, secure them. Slide the mast underneath the boat, between the saddles. The saddles will keep the mast from moving side to side, so a secure strapping down will keep it from moving front to back.

You can see that I put a couple extra straps securing the mast to the boat. That's just to prevent slapping, and is useful as another measure to keep the mast from moving front to back.

It's more complicated to describe than do, but it works perfectly. It's very secure. It's not the recommended way that Hobie says to carry the boat (right side up, instead of upside down), but I never had any problems with it. The Mako Saddles actually work as suspension to dull the sharp bumps and reduce the forces on the boat. I wouldn't drive a big tour with them, but I went several trips with it that were 4 and 6 hour drives.

Works great!

(EDIT: The rear spoiler doesn't play into loading it as I load it from the side, and the straps are clear of it as the boat is long enough.

Also, the Mako Saddles work well because they HUG the boat all the way around, so when you tighten it, you're actually pushing it equally from every side, instead of strapping it DOWN onto a crossbar. I assume that Hobie recommends putting it upside down, at least in part, because the boat can be pulled down onto the cross bars in that position. The Mako Saddles can't dent the hull because of the way that they're secured to the boat. The largest pressure is against the sides of the boat, and not the hull.)

I believe those crossbars were only 30 inches apart. Not ideal at all, but the saddles helped. We have a new car now, so I can't remember (or check) how far apart those bars were. If you have the option of running a T-bar out of your hitch, that's better, but it's not impossible without it. I wouldn't use the T-bar as a 3rd attachment point, but instead use it as the rear attachment point, and the front cross bar as your front point.

If you use the middle attachment point, unless you can perfectly line up every piece on the rack, you'll likely find that the middle point is slightly high, or slightly low, and securing it to that point will cause the boat to be forced to flex up or down. 2 attachment points is all you need, however the further apart, the easier your life is (within reason).

Having just purchased a 2012 TI, I still have a month or two before picking it up and deciding how to transport the rig. Your use of the saddles looks very interesting, practical and safe. My question is this. We have a Toyota Sienna AWD that sits fairly high. Can anyone recommend any 'assists' to get the hull up in the air and balanced?

If there is a suitable roof rack for your AI I think it would work! Since the truck is a bit new try looking for some universal roof rack that can fit to any vehicle. The SUV has rails on the roof so putting them on is not a hassle.

To help in loading, this is what I've done. The Yakima bars are hollow, so I bought a 48" piece of 1/2" steel pipe. It fits well inside the Yakima bars. When you want to load, pull the steel pipe halfway out of the Yakima bar and leave it there. Lift up one end of the boat and place it on the extension. Lift up the other end and place it on the other Yakima bar.My Yakima bars do bow a little bit so I've got a pusher stick to get the steel pipe extended enough so I can grip it. Used a spare 3/8" socket extension as a pusher stick.