The Sage of Himalayan Mountaineering is replete with daredevil climbs, narrow escapes and magnificent achievements. The Sherpas have played a critical role in this great saga. Starting from the beginning of the twentieth century as porters, they emerged as dependable companions on major Himalayan expeditions, accomplishing legendary fears.

This book is a compelling narrative of the hardy Sherpas who inhabit the Solu Khumbu district of Nepal and the city of Darjeeling in India. It is based on intimate personal experience, human relations and meticulous research. Captain Kohli, from 1956 to 1968, climbed with most of the legendary Sherpas on his fifteen major expeditions, worked with some of them at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling, in 1961-62. Later, as President, Indian Mountaineering Foundation and Advisor to the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, he learnt more of the very special Sherpa qualities of head and heart. The present work is a vivid description of his experiences. He tells it all with deep affection, love and regard for the great Sherpas.

About the Author:

Internationally renowned and a celebrated mountaineer, Captain M. S. Kohli, belongs to the exclusive band of three climbers who in 1962 spent three consecutive nights on Mount Everest at 27,650 feet, two without oxygen. He led the Indian Everest Expedition 1965 which put nine men on the summit-a world record which India held for seventeen years. Captain Kohli has fifteen major expeditions to his credit-three to Mount Everest, for each to Nanda Devi and Nanda Kot and one each to Saser Kangri, Annapurna III, Trisul and Nanda Devi East. He was responsible for developing the Indo-Tibetan Border Police into a formidable mountaineering organisation. In 1977, he collaborated with Sir Edmund Hillary in 'From the Ocean to the Sky Jet-Boat Expedition' up the Ganges which heralded white-water rafting in India.

Captain Kohli has had a distinguished and spectacular career spanning the Indian Navy (Captain)- the ITB Police (Advisor) and Air India (Regional Director). In 1971, on joining Air India, he conceived and pioneered the brand new segment of Himalayan Tourism. In 1984, he trekked all over Bhutan and drew the master plan for adventure-tourism in the Himalayan kingdom. He helped Pakistan, Nepal and China in the promotion of trekking tours in these Himalayan countries. He was Advisor to the successful Malaysian Mount Everest Expedition for three years.

Captain Kohli is recipient of several awards and honours including Padma Bhushan, Arjuna Award, Ati Vishisht Seva Medal, and the IMF Gold Medal. He enjoyed the rare privilege of addressing members of both the Houses of Indian Parliament in the Central Hall on 8 September, 1965.

CONTENTS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

ix

PROLOGUE

xi

PART I

THE SHERPAS

1.

ORIGIN AND LIFESTYLE

3

2.

HIGH ALTITUDE PORTERS

14

3.

LOYAL COMPANIONS

23

4.

TIGERS OF SNOW

38

5.

BEYOND THE LIMITS

51

PART II

THE EARLY LEGENDS

6.

TENZING NORGAY

65

7.

ANG THARKAY

78

8.

ANG TSHERING

87

9.

PASANG DAWA LAMA

102

10.

NAWANG-GOMBU

114

11.

'GENERAL' THONDUP

125

12.

GYALGEN MIKCHEN

131

13.

PASANG PHUTTAR

138

14.

ANG TEMBA

146

15.

NAWANG TOPGAY

153

16.

N. D. SHERPA

159

17.

DORJEE LHATOO

168

PART III

PHU DORJE

18.

KHUMJUNG-THE MOUNTAIN CRADLE

179

19.

GLIMPSES OF A PROMISING CLIMBER

187

20.

HIGHEST CAMP ON EVEREST

196

21.

WITH AMERICANS ON EVEREST

205

22.

ATOP SAGARMATHA

209

23.

HONOURS AND AWARDS

228

24.

LAMA'S PROPHESY COMES TRUE

240

PART IV

NEW LEGENDS

25.

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF TENZING

251

26.

RECORD BREAKERS

259

PART V

WINDS OF CHANGE

27.

HIMALAYAN TOURISM

277

28.

SHERPA WOMEN CLIMBERS

293

29.

SAVING SAGARMATHA

305

30.

SHERPAS TODAY

321

EPILOGUE

331

INDEX

339

Sherpas (The Himalayan Legends): Including the untold story of Phu Dorje, the first Nepalese to climb Sagarmatha

The Sage of Himalayan Mountaineering is replete with daredevil climbs, narrow escapes and magnificent achievements. The Sherpas have played a critical role in this great saga. Starting from the beginning of the twentieth century as porters, they emerged as dependable companions on major Himalayan expeditions, accomplishing legendary fears.

This book is a compelling narrative of the hardy Sherpas who inhabit the Solu Khumbu district of Nepal and the city of Darjeeling in India. It is based on intimate personal experience, human relations and meticulous research. Captain Kohli, from 1956 to 1968, climbed with most of the legendary Sherpas on his fifteen major expeditions, worked with some of them at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling, in 1961-62. Later, as President, Indian Mountaineering Foundation and Advisor to the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, he learnt more of the very special Sherpa qualities of head and heart. The present work is a vivid description of his experiences. He tells it all with deep affection, love and regard for the great Sherpas.

About the Author:

Internationally renowned and a celebrated mountaineer, Captain M. S. Kohli, belongs to the exclusive band of three climbers who in 1962 spent three consecutive nights on Mount Everest at 27,650 feet, two without oxygen. He led the Indian Everest Expedition 1965 which put nine men on the summit-a world record which India held for seventeen years. Captain Kohli has fifteen major expeditions to his credit-three to Mount Everest, for each to Nanda Devi and Nanda Kot and one each to Saser Kangri, Annapurna III, Trisul and Nanda Devi East. He was responsible for developing the Indo-Tibetan Border Police into a formidable mountaineering organisation. In 1977, he collaborated with Sir Edmund Hillary in 'From the Ocean to the Sky Jet-Boat Expedition' up the Ganges which heralded white-water rafting in India.

Captain Kohli has had a distinguished and spectacular career spanning the Indian Navy (Captain)- the ITB Police (Advisor) and Air India (Regional Director). In 1971, on joining Air India, he conceived and pioneered the brand new segment of Himalayan Tourism. In 1984, he trekked all over Bhutan and drew the master plan for adventure-tourism in the Himalayan kingdom. He helped Pakistan, Nepal and China in the promotion of trekking tours in these Himalayan countries. He was Advisor to the successful Malaysian Mount Everest Expedition for three years.

Captain Kohli is recipient of several awards and honours including Padma Bhushan, Arjuna Award, Ati Vishisht Seva Medal, and the IMF Gold Medal. He enjoyed the rare privilege of addressing members of both the Houses of Indian Parliament in the Central Hall on 8 September, 1965.

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