Avondale

For the second and final Auckland post I did think I should probably balance the first Otara post – poorish and Polynesian – with one set in a suburb more affluent and white.

But when I read that 40% of Auckland’s population were born overseas and that according to a recent study by Statistics New Zealand, minority communities are almost certain to outnumber whities in Auckland in the next few years, I decided to choose a suburb that might be more reflective of Auckland’s future than its past – Avondale, west of the city centre.

Quick facts. Settled after the late 1850s when the Great North Road was built. Early industries included brickyards, tanneries and market gardens. Semi-famous for the ‘Avondale spider’, a huntsman spider from Australia, as well as Sunday produce and flea markets. Population wise, a real mix of people from all over the globe.

Let’s do it.

Part 1: At the local mosque

Wandering around the shops at Avondale I found a spice shop run by some Afghans. Was there a mosque nearby, I asked. Yes, just up the road, turn left, you can’t miss it, they said.

But I did almost miss it. Because Avondale’s mosque doesn’t look anything like a mosque – more like an oldish school hall without a minaret or dome in sight.

What was very mosque-like, however, were all the people piling into the unassuming building – Afghans, Indonesians, Indians and Somalians, all dressed in their traditional clothes. Swarthy men in white salwar kameez-type suits, caps and keffiyeh scarves. The women covered from head to toe. This was a mosque, no doubt about it.

the only domes at the Avondale mosque

a far cry from the mosques of his own country – Wasim, 18, from Afghanistan

and more recent ones – Nadia from Ethiopia

the new Kiwi – Gul, originally from Afghanistan

from Afghanistan to Auckland – Hewad and Shahid

Hewad

flower girl – Hind from Uzbekistan

the times of Muslim prayer are determined by the position of the sun

Islam in the suburbs

Part 2: From Afghanistan and Uzbekistan to Bangladesh and India

The article I read about the impending shift from white to non-whites said that, between 1986 and 2006, “the numbers born in Asia and now resident in New Zealand increased by 661 per cent, with the Chinese (899.4 per cent) and Indians (841.6 per cent) dominating growth”.

While I certainly saw a huge number of Chinese at the Sunday Avondale markets, I didn’t see that many wandering around the suburb. I did, however, see a lot of people from the Indian subcontinent, including a lovely woman from Bangladesh and another from India. Did they like Auckland and were they fully accepted here? Yes and Yes.

then and now – Nazreen from Bangladesh

Bangladeshi Nazreen at the spice shop run by Afghans

successfully transplanted onto NZ soil

and more recent ones – Saleha from Gujurat, India

With all these people continuing to arrive in NZ from all over the planet, I wondered what the original inhabitants thought – the Maori. Unfortunately I’m none the wiser – the only Maori I met in Avondale was a wonderful man called Jacques. His full face tattoo was so intriguing I completely forgot to ask his opinion on the subject. Instead we discussed his name – his mum named him after Jacques Cousteau because he was the guardian of the sea. Cool.

recent arrivals and the original ones

“I used to be a carver, now I’m a truck driver” – Jacques

Part 3: Tonga

While the Chinese and Indians might be pouring into Auckland, the number of overseas-born Pacific people also doubled between 1986 and 2006.

Unlike Samoa which was once administered by New Zealand (1914 to 1962), the kingdom of Tonga, with its 176 islands, has always been independent.

Maybe that’s why the Tongans in Auckland always seem quite regal. Especially when they’re dressed for church, like the ones I met late on a Sunday in Avondale. They’d gathered after church for choir practice as well as a meeting of elders.

fusion :: 1

fusion :: 2

from the islands :: 1

from the islands :: 2

elders

a colourful tale :: 1

a colourful tale :: 2

And those wraps around their waists? The women’s decorative waistband is called a kiekie, the men’s, a ta’uvala (which they wear over their tupenu, which is a wrap around skirt with pockets). Both are worn for church.

“we wear them to show respect at church” :: 1

“we wear them to show respect at church” :: 2

Not that Samoans don’t have a commanding, striking look about them. Check out Samoan John in his church threads, picking us some Chinese takeaway on one of the main shopping roads of Avondale.

Everyone I met this week smiled broadly when I asked them how they found their adopted home, Auckland. It reminded me of my travels around some of Sydney’s outer suburbs, where people from around the world are able to start new, productive lives.

Not that it’s all a bed of roses. But while racism and discrimination might exist in suburbs like Avondale, for many people, it’s still a better life than the one they left behind.

Speaking of leaving, we left Auckland on Tuesday, flying off just after sunrise. Peering through the window at the city below, the harbour a perfect sheen, I thought how sad it was that so many tourists would never venture beyond the showy bits, as impressive as they are. If only they shunned the harbour tour and headed inland, to suburbs like Otara and Avondale, they’d see a whole other side of the city. Possibly, dare I say it, a more interesting one.

adios Auckland

aka ditch

then and now – Coco in front of a mural depicting old Avondale

island girl

On the ‘home front’

Coco and I want to say a huge thanks to our Auckland friends, Gay, Mark and Meisha. Not only for housing us these past few weeks, but for endlessly driving me around, feeding us every night, and taking Coco off my hands for most of the time. After a year of juggling this project with being a mum and provider of three meals a day, it was such a relief to have at least one of my jobs taken care of. Aside from that, Coco loved her stay with you guys – as well as beautiful Ruby (dog), Saba (cat) and Coco (cat!). You’re all wonderful!

We arrived in Melbourne yesterday and tomorrow we’ll launch into my first suburb here – suburb No 50. 50! Can you believe it?

—

This suburb has been brought to you by Anna Steiner, Chloe and Monique Leung

Sarah says:

Yay for sunshine and happiness – the end is nigh! Looking forward to Melbourne

Thursday, January 24, 2013

TRENT COLLINS says:

Yet another amazing post. Still always stunned to see these posts.

Can’t get over how happy Coco looks. Such an amazing experience for her to have.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Liz says:

A wonderful post, beautifully composed as always, loved the sketches of the early settlers alongside the more recent arrivals. Have loved following you around the world, all the best to you and Coco for your homecoming.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Di says:

Gorgeous as always. Am I imagining it, but has Coco almost grown up in this past year? She looks so happy, and that makes me and all of us readers happy I would imagine. However, I am a little sad at 50/50 – so what’s next Louise?
Di xx

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Kristin says:

Great post, Louise. Very interesting insights and I love your writing as much as your photography.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Louise says:

Sarah – The end is indeed in sight. And yes, Melbourne. Fun.
Trent – Many thanks. I know Coco looks happy and that this year has been an amazing experience, but you know, if she’d stayed home and had a ‘normal’ year, she’d probably look just as happy. She’s just one of those people – lucky huh?
Liz – Gracias. Wish we could’ve stayed longer in your home town. It’s a slow reveal sort of place I think.
Di – Hang on, 50/52 surely?! Three more to go still. And yes, Coco has grown up a great deal hasn’t she? In such a lovely way. As for what’s next – well, working on getting all the images ready for the exhibition at the Museum of Sydney mid year for starters.
Kristin – Danke!

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Ellen says:

Wonderful loved the last aukland suburb def wonderful there

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Christoph (from Hansaviertel Berlin) says:

Hi!

Still following your posts and enjoying every part of it!

Seeing Coco’s Pictures in ‘the wrap above’ I suddenly remembered the shy little girl from the first posts (see with “Durga Maa”) – wow, what a difference! Can this really be only one year?

Greetings from Berlin, where the snow just thaws for a while…

Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Louise says:

Love to see Berlin under white. Must be incredible. And yes, I can’t believe how much Coco has grown this year either – I mean, kids do grow but she looks so delicate and tiny in those early posts.

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Peter McConnochie says:

Sorry…I’m playing catchup again!
Samoan John and Island Coco (how sweet) are highlights – looks like another great place – I can almost sense the excitement as you come home!

Okay – I really do plan on grabbing a large wine and catching up with the remaining posts tonight!

Sunday, March 3, 2013

shahid says:

hi, nice artical.. But, where is the picture of my eye Lol….
#AvondaleMosque