Haven't been on the board for some time now, as I sold my PS90, but now I have a question about the FS2000 trigger pull. I mean it's awful. Has anyone come up with a fix for this little stiffie. I considered shooting it at the last three gun match, but after shooting my AR, I decided to stick with the AR just because of the trigger.
Any help will be appreciated.

I just wrote a little blurb about it in a PM to someone, so I figure I will cut and paste it here for all to read. As a disclaimer, I work with electronics. I can fix your laptop, Ipod, DVD player, or anything of that nature... I could stick a battery pack in the back compartment and rig your rifle to sing jingle bells every time you inserted a new magazine, but all I know about how this rifle works is what I learned from firing it and taking it apart and putting it back together a few times. Here are my thoughts on the subject.

The trigger pull is kinda deceptive. I lubed the trigger pack on mine with a tiny bit of dry lube (molybdenum disulfide? It has a mil-spec number but I forget), and if your holding the pack, the hammer has a pretty crisp release. The problem stems from the takeup action, and people treating it like a single stage trigger. The takup on the trigger is a bit gritty feeling (could probably fix that with a bit more lube, as I literally used a little glob that was left on one of my tools from me lubing something at work), but once you get past the little bit of travel and have the linking mechanism actually touching the trigger pack, it has the same crisp release as the trigger pack by itself. In simple terms, treat it like a two stage trigger and its great. When you get the sights on target take up the slack (you know when it stops), and either build up pressure till it releases or give it a quick tug, either way nothing moves until the hammer drops and its right on the money. People that try to do a single pull and expect it to be even all the way will be very dissapointed, as the gun just doesn't work that way. The trigger reset is right where it should be, so for follow up shots don't let go of the slack, just release it enough to get the trigger link bar (or whatever it is) out of the trigger pack and your right on the same crisp release point every time. You can treat it like a straight single pull once you get used to it, but you have to know it stops before the break point, and about how much pressure the break point needs (about 6-8lbs, by my guestimate).

If anyone knows more about the mechanisms behind that, feel free to enlighten me or correct my wording on the subject.

Dry lube/graphite works well for single stage triggers. I've used them in single and 2 stage triggers, but they don't do much for 2 stages. It considerably smoothens and lightens trigger pull. Of course, polishing also works.

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The plastic parts in the trigger pack are already about as smooth as they can be. Attempts to polish plastic parts will only increase friction as polishing will add scratches to surfaces that used to be smooth. The lube will help though.

The trigger pack on the FS2000 is much like the Steyr Aug. I went through all this when the Augs were initially used for 3 gun matches many years ago. We found that the problem is that the plastic hammer doesn't carry much inertia to impact the firing pin unless spring pressure continues to power it all the way through the stroke. Metallic parts have more mass, so they don't need as much continual spring pressure all the way through the stroke to hit the firing pin. Metallic hammers will have enough energy to break the primer pellet without the constant strong spring pressure.

It is common to reduce spring pressure on trigger mechanisms in order to reduce trigger pull. If there is less pressure on the sear, hammer engagement surfaces, then they release easier. However, with the FS2000 and the Aug, reducing the spring pressure will result in insufficient power in the hammer stroke to reliably break the primer pellet.

Until someone makes metallic hammer, sear, disconnector parts for the trigger packs, we are stuck with the strong spring pressure that gives this "unusual" (I'm trying to be polite) trigger pull.

If my choices are an "unusual" trigger pull that results in reliable ignition, or a nice trigger pull that results in unreliable ignition, I'll go for reliable ignition every time.

But it sure would be nice if someone would make some metallic replacement parts. I suspect that with the limited number of buyers for these parts for the Aug and FS2000, they would be extremely expensive. I think there are lots more Augs out there than FS2000s. If I were a machinist and had access to all the tools and machines to make parts, this would be a great winter project.

User42--I removed the trigger/hammer pack and manually released the hammer as you suggested. Removing the linkage did, indeed, remove some of the take-up, but I gotta tell you the gritty creep I felt before hammer dropped was some of the worst I've felt. The setup, in my rifle at least, is totally unacceptable.
I'll not give up, however. There must be a solution.

I like the idea of replacing a few choice parts with polished metal replicas, but since that is beyond my capabilities to make at the moment I can just suggest some lube. I agree polishing plastic wouldn't seem to be very effective.

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I have been looking over the web for information on this gun. Looks interesting and I am considering purchasing one. It sounds like the trigger on this gun is as firm as the trigger on the PS90. Has anyone shot one of these for accuracy? Will it shoot 1 MOA at 100 yards? There are some pictures of the FS2000 hammer group on another web site. It appears the hammer group is similar to the one used in the PS90. Is this an accurate gun?
Thank you,
9th

Hey, don't get me wrong, its a WONDERMOUS platform. I truly loved the rifle. It fit me perfectly. I'm just not able to slide that trigger back evenly enough to get accurate long distance shots.
But let me add, I'm not a distance shooter either. I'm a pistol shooter out to about 30 yards and can totally ruin your day if you're the BG, but I've never had the knack for distance shooting.
Thankfully, the deer around here are usually shot in the <50 yard ranges so I'm good to go!

I have a pic of the trigger pack (top view only) if you want it & Wollly put a pic in the Wiki w/disassembled FS2K where you can see the trig-pak.

If you can do for the FS2K what you did for the PS90, I'd certainly appreciate it - even be willing to chip in some $ for your R&D. That trigger is only real problem with that weapon. Long & a bit stubborn. Its a good shooter at ~50yd but I am not stable enough w/that trigger to shoot for accuracy at 100yd.

Yea if there was an FS2000 trigger redesign in the works, I would be a buyer.

Oh and Panzer, I love your Indiana Jones GIF sig :thumb:

If a man dedicates his life to good deeds and the welfare of others, He will die unthanked and unremembered. If he exercises his genius bringing death and misery to billions, his name will echo down through the millennia for a hundred lifetimes.

It looks like a trigger job would be possible. The hammer group is almost identical to the one in the PS90. The big difference is the PS90 comes with an auto sear in the front of the hammer group. It appears the FS2000 had an auto sear in front of the hammer but it has been removed at the factory. The holes and pin that held the auto sear are still there. If a safety sear from the PS90 modification fits on the pin it might be possible to cut a notch in the hammer. Then it would be a matter of connecting the safety sear to the trigger. It might be a pretty easy task. From what I read on the web the trigger can be really awful. If I buy one of these guns this is what I would do.
9th

I went to the Wiki and the picture is helpful and encouraging. If someone wants to take apart the gun so I can get a look inside that would be good. If you do take pictures, focus on the way the trigger is linked to the hammer group. Does this gun use a rod or rods to connect the trigger to the hammer group?
9th