I have a Dalan hitch on my 93 100CSQW. As far as I know, this is the only
manufacturer of hitches for Audi wagons.
Found mail-order at following site.
http://www.hitch-web.com/
They have to remove bumper to install hitch. Also, wiring requires
a direct feed on mine, as load sensing circuit senses a fault and
brake light warning indicator illuminates the first time you hit the
brakes. Hitch is unobtrusive, with less visible footprint than the
exhaust pipes.
Good Luck
C. Krafft
Date sent: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 09:22:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: owner-quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net (quattro-digest)
To: quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net
Subject: quattro-digest V4 #2766
Send reply to: quattro@coimbra.ans.net
quattro-digest Tuesday, September 15 1998 Volume 04 : Number 2766
*
* Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
* See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
* In this issue:
Re: TLA Lexicon - Updates
Misc. Clutch Info "PARTS NUMBERS & APPLICATIONS"
High altitude boost problems
Re: GREAT weekend!
Re: Snell95 M rated helmets
What viscosity oil for 5 speed?
Talking Heads
Re: Talking Heads
Re: What a horrible day
Re: interesting weekend drives
RE: Snell95 M rated helmets
FIXED: Problem with S4's Rear Diff Lock
Re: Considering a '90 V8
Re: TLA Lexicon - Updates
Re: rear fog light
Advice on replacing stereo in 200TQAv
uh-oh...pin-drop
RE: eurolight city lights
Trailer Hitch
Re: uh-oh...pin-drop
Re: Frequency Valve
Center Support Bearing 100Q
Re: sunroof lube ?
Re: group eurolight/relay harness purchase details for USA listers
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 02:45:22 -0400
From: Richard Beels <beels@technologist.com>
Subject: Re: TLA Lexicon - Updates
Week 3 and still going. As usual, keep the additions & corrections coming.
LED: Light Emitting Diode. In most Audis, these are known as friodes.
They become SEDs: Smoke Emitting Diodes on their way to becoming DEDs: Dead
Emitting Diodes. We also seem to possess a large number of LERs: Light
Emitting Resistors...
DMV: Department of Motor Vehicles. California (and probably others) agency
that bends you over the counter for the privilege of owning and driving a
motor vehicle.
VE: Volumetirc Efficiancy
PW: Power Windows
PS: Power Sterring
P(D)L: Power (Door) Locks
CC: Cruise Control
R&R: Remove & Replace
OBD: On-Board Diagnostics
EDL/EDS: Electronic Differential Lock. EDS is German abbreviation for the
same.
Triple Square: A driver design that is a 12 pointed star, with 90 ends.
Imagine 3 squares with a 120 degrees rotation in relation to each other
- --or-- a 12 pointed Allen wrench
T10: A common size designation for a TORX driver. Other common sizes are
5, 20, 30, 45.
QCUSA: USA Quattro Club
HVAC: Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning
Team Doorhandle: Perjorative term for Audi engineer(s) who designed the
oh-so-reliable door handles on Type 44s
MAP: Manifold A???????? Pressure
MSDS: Material Safety Data Sheet
ID: Inner Diameter
OD: Outer Diameter
BRG: British Racing Green (the color)
WFO: Wide Flocking Open, as in throttle.
ABS: Anti-lock Braking System
TSB: Technical Service Bulliten
FWD: Front Wheel Drive, NOT "Four WD"
RWD: Rear Wheel Drive
AWD: All Wheel Drive
R&T: Road & Track magazine
C&D: Car & Driver magazine
RHD: Right Hand Drive (driver position)
LHD: Left Hand Drive (driver position)
NAC: No Audi Content. Alternately, ZAC: Zero Audi Content
Dan: Dan Simoes, der ListeMeister
RDH: Robert Houk
SJM: Scott Mockry
ECU: Electronic Control Unit
BDC: Bottom Dead Center
WMB: Sly, "in" reference to BMWs
TDI: Turbo Diesel Injected (Injector?)
DOT3: Brake Fluid Grade - Min dry boiling pt =205degC or 401degF. Min wet
boiling pt = 140degC or 284degF. aliphatic polyether-based, can be mixed
with DOT4, characteristics will be (linearly) in between DOT3/DOt4
parameters. Cheap, most widely used, eats paint, absorbs water easily, eats
natural rubber seals.
DOT4: Brake Fluid Grade - Min dry boiling pt=230degC or 446degreesF. Min
wet boiling pt = 155degC or 311degreesF. borate ester based, can be mixed
with DOT3, characteristics will be (linearly) in between DOT3/DOt4
parameters 50% more expensive than DOT3, eats paint, significantly
increased resistance to moisture absorption compared to DOT3 (but still
absorbs water), does not eat natural rubber seals.
DOT5: Brake Fluid Grade - Min dry boiling pt=260degC or 500degF. Min wet
boiling pt = 180degC or 356degF. Cannot mix with other fluids as it
contains silicone; turns to jelly, colored purple. Used mostly for antique
cars and some motorcycles because it does not damage paint and does not
absorb water. Is more compressible than DOT3/4 though. Twice as expensive
as DOT4 (and thus 3 times as expensive as DOT3) and has limited
availability.
DOT5.1: Brake Fluid Grade - Min dry boiling pt=260degC or 500degF. Min wet
boiling pt = 180degC or 356degF. It's a stupid name as it's glycol-based
(borate ester) like DOPT3/4 and has NO silicone. Absorbs water, eats
paint, more expensive than DOT4, difficult to locate.
ET: Code for offset on wheels. Example: ....ET 45, meaning 45 mm offset.
MoS2: Molybdenun Disulfide, high-pressure lubricant.
SC: Slave Cylinder
NA: North American
OXS: Oxygen Sensor
SOHC: Single Over Head Camshaft
DOHC: Dual Over Head Camshaft
PO'd: Pissed Off
POS: Piece of Shtuff
02 (Zero-2): My 2 cents worth
MH02 (Zero-2): My Humble 2 cents worth
IIRC: If I Recall Correctly
ISO: In Search Of
WRT: With Regards To
IME: In My Experience
BCNU: Be Seeing You
AFAIK: As Far As I Know
IIRC: If I Remember Correctly
OTOH: On The Other Hand
ROTFL(MAO): Rolling On The Floor Laughing (My A$$ Off)
RTFM: Read The Fine Manual! Brits might also say RTBM: Read The Bloody
Manual!
TOS: Terms Of Service
TIA: Thanks In Advance
L8R: Later
IUD: Insert Usual Disclaimers
UDA: Usual Disclaimers Apply
POS: Piece of Shtuff
BFE: Bum-Flock Egypt. Denotes a place very, very far away.
BFI: Brute Force & Ignorance or Bunch of Flocking Idiots
YABA: Yet Another Bloody Acronym
CYA: Cover Your Assets
FOAF: Friend Of A Friend
KISS: Keep It Simple, Stupid!
RSN: Real Soon Now
WOMBAT: Waste of Money, Brains and Time
B4N: Bye For Now
OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer. Also, simply OE.
Cheers,
Richard
88 90Q - <insert pithy witticism here>
88 Golf GTi - PRO Rally
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 23:20:32 -0500
From: Whitson <whitson2@gte.net>
Subject: Misc. Clutch Info "PARTS NUMBERS & APPLICATIONS"
PARTS NUMBERS & APPLICATIONS
VW Audi
Part Number Application Part Number
Application
ZVW 332 001 R/S 75-82 190mm ZAW 332 001 85-7 CPE/84-7 4000 85-7 5000
ZVW 332 002 R/J/P.U. 81-9 200mm ZAW 332 002 90-1 CPE/89-91 90 90 20v
ZVW 332 003 R/S/G/J 84-92 210mm ZAW 332 003 92-5 90/95 A6 2.8 AAH V6
ZVW 332 005 G/J 90-5 210mm ZAW 332 005 89-91 80/90/100 NG ENGINE
ZVW 332 007 P 90-3 228mm 16v ZAW 332 007 92-94 S4 TURBO 20V AAN
ZVW 332 008 C/P 90-1 G60 228mm ZAW 332 008 92 V8 3.6L PT&4.2L ABH ENG
ZVW 332 009 P/C/G/J 90> VR6 ZAW 332 009 89-91 200 MC&3B ENGINE
ZVW 332 010 T2/VANAGON/SYNCHRO ZAW 332 010 84-7 4000 76>89 1.8L ENGINE
ZAW 332 011 86-8 5/T/Q MC ENGINE
- --
Whitson
'86 4KCSQ
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 01:55:47 -0600
From: Brooks Ellis <brooks@frii.com>
Subject: High altitude boost problems
>5500rpm. I live in Colorado Springs and the elevation is about 6500ft.
>Could this be the cause? What kind of boost can I run up here without
Tim - I live north of Fort Collins, at roughly 6000 feet, and could get the
stock setup to do 1.3 bar pretty easily, but getting the full 1.4 was a
little tougher. With a modded WG spring (& ecu) I got 2.0 bar with no
problems. I could hit 2.0 every time.
IMO, the stock spring is a little bit weak, and cracks open a little too
early to get a reliable 1.4. I don't know if it would be possible to
stretch it a little bit to help it out or not.
You could try shimming the spring a wee bit, to give it a little extra
pressure, and perhaps that'll help you attain the proper boost.
Of course, that is all spring stuff. 1.2 is a little low even for that, so
you'd be well advised to check out all of the hoses in the engine. After
that, check out the WOT switch, and other common failure points, because
these little sensors tell the computer if it is ok to at least TRY full
boost or not. If they aren't ALL ok, then you will get lower boost. Check
the archives for things to check, and procedures to check them.
Good luck!
brooks -fort collins/laporte area, n. colorado, USA-
[ brooks@frii.com '89.5 200Q @ 1.8 S&W Sigma 9F 17+1 ]
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:47:25 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: Re: GREAT weekend!
> Hmmm...does she like older men? Not that I'm suggesting anything
> prurient, or anything like that...I'm just, uh, academically curious...
First serious boyfriend was actually younger than her. His father owned
an AH 3000 Series 3, and the lad thought this was the absolute bee's
knees. I took him down to Coy's at Silverstone and changed his mind a
little.
- --
Phil Payne
Phone: 0385 302803 Fax: 01536 723021
(The contents of this post will _NOT_ appear in the UK Newsletter.)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 01:10:09 PDT
From: "kendriq 87.5gt" <kendriq@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Snell95 M rated helmets
>From: PN <pajono@compsol.net>
>Reply-To: "pajono@compsol.net" <pajono@compsol.net>
>To: "Audi list (E-mail)" <quattro@coimbra.ans.net>
>Subject: Snell95 M rated helmets
>Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 17:41:41 -0400
>
>I'm looking to buy an M rated helmet, and the motorcycle shops around
here
>don't usually carry Snell rated stuff (scary that they sell the cheaper
>helmets to people). Does anyone have any suggestions on brand, and mail
>order location to get a great price?
>
>Thanks,
>Paul
Try Dennis Kirk, They're pretty good but the prob. w/mail order
helmets, is that you can't try them on. I ordered a helmet in the same
brand/size/model as one I had tried on and it did fit differently. Ask
at a motorcycle shop, and look for the brands Shoei, Arai, and AGV.
They all fit differently, but all make fantastic helmets. DON'T buy
from a motorcycle dealer, they'll soak you. Try a shop that sells
parts, and accessories, they're usually 15-20% cheaper than dealers.
Also, your local roadracing club might be of some assistance, as well.
Expect to pay upwards of $300 for anything worth your noggin. The
pricier ones are more comfortable as well. I've ridden at 100mph pluss
with cheap and expensive helmets, and believe me, it's worth the dough
to get one thats really cozy. The cheap ones will save your life just
as well(this I know from experiance), but this is one area to treat
yourself
>
former street rider, soon to become roadracer>
- ----Mark Busse
75 100LS {R.I.P.} 75 Yam RD350 85 Hon Interceptor 1000
85 5kS {R.I.P.}
80 baas 99GLI {for sale}
87.5 "Special Build"CGT -ANSA
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 01:27:57 -0800
From: "R. Shayne Pavlic'" <bcpi@arias.net>
Subject: What viscosity oil for 5 speed?
A post a few days back listed some problems with a 5 speed in my V8. Quite
a few of you recommeded changing to a sythetic oil. Any recomendations on
viscosity and brand? I live in WA state where normal temperatures range
from +15F up to +100F.
TIA, Shayne.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 03:48:15 -0500
From: Kim Johnson <kjohnson@pclink.com>
Subject: Talking Heads
My head gasket is TOAST (I think).
My wife just got halfway home from work and stopped because she saw some
steam coming from under the hood. She was puzzled because the gauge
registered "normal" temperature. None the less and to her credit she
called home for help and I responded at light speed.
What had happened was the housing (cheep plastic crap) to the afterun
coolant pump had broken at the clamp. My guess is that the cooling
system completely drained and the engine overheated but with no coolant
the gauge did not register the high temp. When I started to put water in
the cooling system the the engine died. I continued filling the system
and then restarted the car but the cooling system quickly started
blowing coolant out of the coolant reservoir. I had intended to change
out the head gasket this Fall but the Audi Gods are vain and called for
immediate attention.
I started the dismantling process tonight but I stalled out at the
corrugated down pipe. The small bolts that are in the flange will not
allow any purchase the 12 mm 5 pt socket just spins. I guess I'll have
to cut them with a hacksaw blade (slow slow slow work) Does anyone have
any TIPS for removing the exhaust system from the head?
I called my local machine shop and asked them for a "ballpark" price on
rebuilding this head and the guy said It would go $200-$300 dollars. Is
this a reasonable price or should I shop around?
Thanks for your support,
Kim Johnson
1986 5kqt
almost 200,000 tornado red and a hobby that rivals golf
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 11:43:02 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: Re: Talking Heads
In message <35FE29CE.7B29D940@pclink.com> Kim Johnson writes:
> What had happened was the housing (cheep plastic crap) to the afterun
> coolant pump had broken at the clamp. My guess is that the cooling
> system completely drained and the engine overheated but with no coolant
> the gauge did not register the high temp. When I started to put water in
> the cooling system the the engine died. I continued filling the system
> and then restarted the car but the cooling system quickly started
> blowing coolant out of the coolant reservoir. I had intended to change
> out the head gasket this Fall but the Audi Gods are vain and called for
> immediate attention.
If you put cold water into a very hot engine while it was still running,
the possibilities include a cracked block. Even if you do it slowly.
You must _always_ let the engine cool pretty well down before replacing
coolant, especially if a lot has been lost and the thing got pretty
hot.
- --
Phil Payne
Phone: 0385 302803 Fax: 01536 723021
(The contents of this post will _NOT_ appear in the UK Newsletter.)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 07:08:20 -0400
From: Lee Levitt <wheelman@shore.net>
Subject: Re: What a horrible day
Coolian <coolian@tiac.net> writes:
>3am with nothing to do except drive around in my 4kq, around town, in
>Boston the other night. We pull up to this stop light
stuff snipped
>
>All in all, I think Audi did pretty well....and while the Viper people
>weren't looking, my friend scooped a few headlights from the street....I'm
>thinking about new Viper fogs for my 87 4kq....What do you think?
I think you shouldn't be up so late.
:)
Lee
Lee Levitt
wheelman @ shore.net
webmaster, http://www.wheelman.com - kewl stuff for gearheads :)
1990 Audi 200T, 85K
1995 Range Rover County LWB, 72K
1987 Wicked Fat Chance, 1981 Condor Custom Road Bike
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 07:15:03 -0400
From: Glen_Powell@ne.3com.com
Subject: Re: interesting weekend drives
Anyone know how to find out if the Nurburgring is open to the public on a
particular day?
Like Thu/Fri 8/9 October?
What hours?
Thanks,
- -glen: glen_powell@3com.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 07:41:18 -0400
From: "McCarthy, Edward" <emccarth@mitre.org>
Subject: RE: Snell95 M rated helmets
Definitely need to go to a shop with a decent selection to try on a bunch.
Different brands do fit differently. I ride motorcycles as well and would
say that spending extra for comfort is worth it if you plan on using the
helmet a lot.
Paying over $300 is way out of line though. Dennis Kirk has great
selection, but is WAY over priced (I always shop there, but never buy
there). Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse has much better deals. And you
local shop may have some good deals as well, if you're willing to haggle a
little. I bought my AGV from a local shop for $220, and can't see ever
paying more for a helmet.....
Good luck.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kendriq 87.5gt [SMTP:kendriq@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 4:10 AM
> To: quattro@coimbra.ans.net; pajono@compsol.net
> Subject: Re: Snell95 M rated helmets
>
>
>
> >From: PN <pajono@compsol.net>
> >Reply-To: "pajono@compsol.net" <pajono@compsol.net>
> >To: "Audi list (E-mail)" <quattro@coimbra.ans.net>
> >Subject: Snell95 M rated helmets
> >Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 17:41:41 -0400
> >
> >I'm looking to buy an M rated helmet, and the motorcycle shops around
> here
> >don't usually carry Snell rated stuff (scary that they sell the cheaper
> >helmets to people). Does anyone have any suggestions on brand, and mail
> >order location to get a great price?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Paul
>
>
> Try Dennis Kirk, They're pretty good but the prob. w/mail order
> helmets, is that you can't try them on. I ordered a helmet in the same
> brand/size/model as one I had tried on and it did fit differently. Ask
> at a motorcycle shop, and look for the brands Shoei, Arai, and AGV.
> They all fit differently, but all make fantastic helmets. DON'T buy
> from a motorcycle dealer, they'll soak you. Try a shop that sells
> parts, and accessories, they're usually 15-20% cheaper than dealers.
> Also, your local roadracing club might be of some assistance, as well.
> Expect to pay upwards of $300 for anything worth your noggin. The
> pricier ones are more comfortable as well. I've ridden at 100mph pluss
> with cheap and expensive helmets, and believe me, it's worth the dough
> to get one thats really cozy. The cheap ones will save your life just
> as well(this I know from experiance), but this is one area to treat
> yourself
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> former street rider, soon to become roadracer>
>
> ----Mark Busse
> 75 100LS {R.I.P.} 75 Yam RD350 85 Hon Interceptor 1000
> 85 5kS {R.I.P.}
> 80 baas 99GLI {for sale}
> 87.5 "Special Build"CGT -ANSA
>
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:00:36 -0400
From: "David Bray" <panacea@istar.ca>
Subject: FIXED: Problem with S4's Rear Diff Lock
My nightmare is finally OVER!!!
Thanks to:
Jim Dupree
Kirby Smith
Steve Buchholz
Chris Miller
Michael Williams
and all listers who expended cycles reading & thinking about my problem.
My rear diff is no longer locking on its own. The cause ... the vacuum
check (non-return) valve as suggested by both Jim Dupree and Kirby Smith,
then supported with more analysis and information from Steve Buchholz.
I broke down and purchased the complete set of Bentley manuals (about $380
Cdn, including all taxes). One look at the diagrams convinced me that you
guys were right on the money, even though the dealer (after umpteen hours of
diagnoses) was certain that it was a wiring issue. In fact, the service
manager said _We haven't worked on too many of these newer quattro drives,
just the old vacuum operated ones. We know about those._ It would seem
that they can't read their own service manuals, if they can't see that it's
still vacuum operated. It's also clear to me that they didn't _waste_ any
time troubleshooting it, just trying to get some codes, and following some
blind advice, goodness knows from where!
BTW, the dealer quoted me $57 Cdn (taxes in) for the check valve. My
mechanic friend just happened to have a distributor retard valve (about $2)
which looked similar but was slightly smaller, and worked the same way. We
installed it and everything works perfectly now.
Thanks guys ... I'm deeply grateful.
Many thanks also to Chris Miller and Michael Williams whose suggestions were
much appreciated (what you guys told me will be invaluable for maintenance
later).
David Bray
Ottawa, ON, CANADA
panacea@istar.ca
ICQ# 2896073
'93 S4 - modified to over 300hp
(previously, '90 90Q - amazing handling, but a little shy on power)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:09:53 EDT
From: DFAUTOHAUS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Considering a '90 V8
<<
I'm considering buying a '90 V8. Can someone recommend a shop in the
Boston area that can inspect it before I buy it?
>>
Try the Foreign Car Center near Watertown Sq across the street from the T
station after you've crossed the bridge to go up to Newton Cor. Paul Macedon.
Say hi for me
DF
Dave Flagg
Autohaus
So Burlington, VT
802-658-2277
www.vtbusiness.net/autohaus/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 07:19:39 -0500
From: Todd Young <tyoung@wamnet.com>
Subject: Re: TLA Lexicon - Updates
Richard Beels wrote:
> LED: Light Emitting Diode. In most Audis, these are known as friodes.
> They become SEDs: Smoke Emitting Diodes on their way to becoming DEDs: Dead
> Emitting Diodes. We also seem to possess a large number of LERs: Light
> Emitting Resistors...
Have you ever seen a LET, Light Emitting Transistor? I got an award (sic) at
my last job for managing to do that. :-)
- --
Todd Young WAM!NET Inc.
tyoung@wamnet.com 6100 West 110th Street
612-886-5051 Bloomington, MN 55438-2664
800-585-1133 ext.5051 http://www.wamnet.com/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:20:58 EDT
From: DFAUTOHAUS@aol.com
Subject: Re: rear fog light
You're friend is right, the lamp assy is for the rear fog, left hand
only.There should be a switch on the dash with a fog light illustration on it.
A light with rays emmiting at a downward angle. If not it could have been
faulty or not installed at the factory and have merely a blank there instead.
It should be next to the left heated seat sw. If it's not there pull the blank
and see if your brown wire is there. If so you may be able to install a switch
and be in business
DF
Dave Flagg
Autohaus
So burlington, VT
802-658-2277
www.vtbusiness.net/autohaus/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:47:38 -0400
From: "Ted Nilson" <teddybear@tempest.nac.net>
Subject: Advice on replacing stereo in 200TQAv
Hello. This is my first posting to this list, so please be tolerant if I
violate group etiquette. I recently purchased a 1990 200 Turbo Quattro
Avant (my second Audi; my first was a '87 5000s Avant) and I have some
questions I hope the group might address.
1) I want to upgrade to a new sound system w/ CD changer. Are there any
tricks to removing the console face plate to get at the stock
receiver/cassette player? Has anyone found a particularly good place to
mount a remote CD changer? Do I have to remove the whole dash (along w/
steering wheel) to replace the front speakers?
2) I need to replace the circuit board that controls the speedo, dash
lights, diagnostic system; how do I remove the instrument cluster, again
without removing the whole dash?
3) I would like to install a class I towing hitch to pull a light sailboat.
I haven't been able to find a hitch manufacturer that makes one for this
model. Will I have to get one custom built, or does Audi make one? There
seems to be holes in the frame where one would bolt in.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ted Nilson
teddybear@nac.net
http://users.nac.net/teddybear
check out the NJCFSA web site at http://idt.net/~njcfsa
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:44:07 -0400
From: four.rings@MCIONE.com
Subject: uh-oh...pin-drop
"Osman Parvez" <oparvez1@nycap.rr.com>
Hi folks,
I was getting out of my car today and noticed something on the floorboard
near the pedals. I pick it up..it's a pin. No, not a needle but a pin with a
diameter slightly smaller than a dime! One end has a groove, the other end
is thick to prevent it from slipping out.
[...]
I'd been hearing a "pop" kind of noise when I release the clutch, ever since
I had the new pedal installed. Then suddenly...it was gone (The noise). And
now this pin appears from nowhere. Could the two incidents be related?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Yes. There are tree [clevis] pins in the clutch mechanism.
One secures the "fork" of the Master Cylinder's rod to the pedal.
The other two secure both ends of the "over-centre spring" - the hollow plastic
unit with a b!tchin' heavy spring inside. This unit assures that your pedal
returns back when you release the clutch.
What happened is your mechanic did not secure the pin with the special locking
washer (coz it's a real pain to get to. Last time I did my clutch my hands
looked like I did a double shift in a butcher shop). Now the pin has fallen out.
The piece that it held is still in place, that's why you don't yet notice any
difference in the clutch behaviour. The pedal will fall on you sooner or later.
BTDT two times.
_Address_it_now_! You will have to anyway, but it's easier in the shop than on
the road side en route to Washington.
I hope to see you at my place by the week's end in a well functioning car.
************************************************************
Igor Kessel
'89 200TQ -- 18psi (TAP)
'98 A4TQ -- mostly stock
Philadelphia, PA
USA
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/8949/homepage.html
************************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 05:48:46 PDT
From: "scott miller" <macatawa@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: eurolight city lights
>what are the city lights that everyone keeps referring to in the =
>Euro lights thread?
>
City lights are a third bulb below the high/low bulb, on the parking
light circuit. Most city lights I've seen provoke well meaning
Americans to suggest your headlights have a bad ground. They do look
like dim headlights. I'm using 20watt halogen bulbs (Metrix), much
whiter and brighter, good for day running lights. They throw a
scattered beam much higher than headlights, possibly distracting in fog.
Scott
______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:35:08 -0500
From: Joe.Oliver@ALLTEL.COM
Subject: Trailer Hitch
Has Anyone ever seen a trailer hitch on a 1990 V8 Quatro? Any ideas?
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Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 09:04:15 -0400
From: four.rings@MCIONE.com
Subject: Re: uh-oh...pin-drop
>It's the 'axle' for one of the pedals, probably the clutch.
No.
Both the brake and the clutch pedals sit on the common axle, which is an
integral part of that huge Al pedal cluster, bolted to the firewall with four
13mm nuts. BTRemovedT.
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Igor Kessel
'89 200TQ -- 18psi (TAP)
'98 A4TQ -- mostly stock
Philadelphia, PA
USA
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/8949/homepage.html
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Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:55:14 -0400
From: Huw Powell <human@nh.ultranet.com>
Subject: Re: Frequency Valve
> Actually this is an early 1984 with the mechanical fuel injection and the
> 2.1 L engine. Too bad for me!
It's ok, they're not *that* baad!
Your freq valve should be buzzing all the time, as I said, the ECU
controls it with feedback from the OXS. Pic of where to test the duty
cycle at the url below.
possible failure modes (I'm sure there are more...) include ECU grounds
(by coil on firewall I think), wiring to FV, FV itself, etc.
The FV should have 12v constant at one side (same circuit as fuel pump)
and the other side is grounded intermittently (like 50% of the time + or
- -, at about 15 Hz) by the ECU.
Hope this gets you started...
- --
Huw Powell
http://www.thebook.com/human-speakers/audi-timing.htm
the steering wheel isn't connected to anything, it's just a place to
rest your hands
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Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 09:19:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Duane USG/PE <duane@zk3.dec.com>
Subject: Center Support Bearing 100Q
I'm in need of a center support bearing for my '89 100Q.
Existing one is toast. The dealer wants to sell it to me
with the entire shaft assembly. Talk about getting the shaft!
Where can I get just the bearing? Used is fine, as long
as it works.
Also, need the headlight buckets for my Euro lights.
These are the black plastic shells that the lenses go
into and attach to the grill/chassis to hold the lights in.
Any leads at all?
- --
Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7) duane@zk3.dec.com
Compaq Computer Corporation (603)-884-1294
110 Spit Brook Road
M/S ZKO3-3/U14
Nashua, NH 03062-2698
Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's too psychotic to express it
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Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:21:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Duane USG/PE <duane@zk3.dec.com>
Subject: Re: sunroof lube ?
Hairy green toads from Mars made scott miller say:
> What's best to lube sunroofs? Silicon doesn't seem to last. Previous
> owner apparently used tar and sand :( From my mountain biking days I've
> dealt with grit-resistant dry lubes, Boeshield T9 seems a good choice.
> It leaves a clean, waxy film. Anything better out there?
That's what I've always been told is best.
Of course, Audi probably makes some official lube
(part #411 000 02G 407-A :-) for the purpose....
- --
Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7) duane@zk3.dec.com
Compaq Computer Corporation (603)-884-1294
110 Spit Brook Road
M/S ZKO3-3/U14
Nashua, NH 03062-2698
Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's too psychotic to express it
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:20:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Duane USG/PE <duane@zk3.dec.com>
Subject: Re: group eurolight/relay harness purchase details for USA listers
Hairy green toads from Mars made Ron Mruss say:
> BTW, what are the city lights that everyone keeps referring to in the =
> Euro lights thread?
They are small (5W?) lights connected to the corner markers (AKA
parking lights) that illuminate the inside of the headlamp assembly.
- --
Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7) duane@zk3.dec.com
Compaq Computer Corporation (603)-884-1294
110 Spit Brook Road
M/S ZKO3-3/U14
Nashua, NH 03062-2698
Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's too psychotic to express it
------------------------------
End of quattro-digest V4 #2766
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