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Iím not following it. Why do I need the Bluetooth kit installed ? If I can plug this into a laptop that would be easiest way. I donít even know what type of cable I need. Iím sure I need some adapter on my end. I have usb-c inputs. This process seems very complicated.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The link has Bluetooth information on it but at the bottom of post 1 is the MAC software. That is what I was directing you too.

No worries. Iíve modified a lot of cars over the years. Iím used to just a ecu flash. All this information for me is not laid out clear. I donít want to take apart a 550 box and splice in a 140 box just to put a map on it. It should come preset to the map you want. I ainít going crazy with this car. Iím not doing hfc or intercooler upgrade or watermeth. I didnít get this car for that. Just want a little more power.
First people said I could get a cable and use it with the phone. Now they say you canít. I looked at their forum. The updates and etc.. it seems you need this Bluetooth device to do everything. I donít have a windows computer. He sends me a link to that makes no sense from a few years ago about apple use.
Iím not getting involved with this thing. And Iím not gonna pay a tuner 2 hours labor to install it and update it for me. I can install it. No issue. But I canít update it. I donít need it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have an iphone, you need the bluetooth adaptor or run the program from a laptop.

If you have an android you can use the otg cable, bluetooth or program. Sorry if I was not clear.

It is preset in map 1 so if you happy with that its plug and play. To set each individual unit to customer spec will be impossible due to the volumes we do it will become a norm across all the brands we support.

Fair enough. Could a dealer tell if youíre running water meth if you break everything down prior to a repair session?

Well if you removed everything they couldn't tell. That would include removing the adapter plate, for the wmi nozzles, pump, tank, etc. We are starting to push the boost a bit more now (10psi additive) so we'll keep you guys posted.

Well if you removed everything they couldn't tell. That would include removing the adapter plate, for the wmi nozzles, pump, tank, etc. We are starting to push the boost a bit more now (10psi additive) so we'll keep you guys posted.

If this fails, Iím considering buying the BMS piggy with BCM and running wmi with the stock turbo so that I can run 4-6 psi over stock on 91 octane fuel. Does this seem like a reasonable goal? Can the stock turbo deliver 4 extra PSI reliabily?

Is WMI enough to allow me to run 4-6 extra PSI on 91 octane?

Beyond pushing past this 4-6 extra PSI are there any other benefits to swapping the turbo?

I donít have any aspirations of pushing past the low 400s at the crank. I do want the car to last.

I donít want to push my car to the breaking point... the effective compression is 33:1 running 10 psi over stock or 28 psi.

The effective CR on a top fuel dragster is only 35:1 at full tilt.

I just donít think this engine will last that long with an effective CR of 33:1?

Depending on your IATs with 91 octane I think you would be fine at a 4psi additive and yes the stock turbo should be very reliable there. You are only in that boost range every so often and turbos are designed to last a long time in modern cars. If your IATs are low enough you might get away with 6psi on 91 octane (I did with the stock turbo on 92 octane) with no timing pull. You would really just need to use your jb4 logging to make that determination. The hybrid turbo Johann and I are running is much more efficient so we can move a lot more air volume and run higher boost pressure without exceeding the efficiency limits of the turbo. In addition it is a dual ball bearing so there is less friction, better longevity, and less oil used by the turbo. If you are looking to make 400 crank then the stock turbo will be able to do that reliably. 10 psi over stock will put me closer to 25psi and the real concern is engine knock and egt's. As long as we can control that I am not concerned about the 10psi additive with wmi on the hybrid turbo. I will run about 6psi additive daily on 92 and then 10psi+ w/ wmi for race use

Depending on your IATs with 91 octane I think you would be fine at a 4psi additive and yes the stock turbo should be very reliable there. You are only in that boost range every so often and turbos are designed to last a long time in modern cars. If your IATs are low enough you might get away with 6psi on 91 octane (I did with the stock turbo on 92 octane) with no timing pull. You would really just need to use your jb4 logging to make that determination. The hybrid turbo Johann and I are running is much more efficient so we can move a lot more air volume and run higher boost pressure without exceeding the efficiency limits of the turbo. In addition it is a dual ball bearing so there is less friction, better longevity, and less oil used by the turbo. If you are looking to make 400 crank then the stock turbo will be able to do that reliably. 10 psi over stock will put me closer to 25psi and the real concern is engine knock and egt's. As long as we can control that I am not concerned about the 10psi additive with wmi on the hybrid turbo. I will run about 6psi additive daily on 92 and then 10psi+ w/ wmi for race use

I realize people are setting boost goals but I've noticed it's not always about boost. I've made some hits on my car and it's making 23lbs and I've also made hits that have felt faster from the seat on less 🤷*♂️. I think there is so much other shit going on between the on board computer and the jb4 it's not only about raw bost numbers.

+1 same for me... it's honestly extremely easy, I found it to be rather intuitive and there is alot of community support. I'm very happy overall and this is my first experience with the company. My car with the jb4&bcm is significantly faster than the day I bought it. Also, the more data we send in the better it's getting.

+1 same for me... it's honestly extremely easy, I found it to be rather intuitive and there is alot of community support. I'm very happy overall and this is my first experience with the company. My car with the jb4&bcm is significantly faster than the day I bought it. Also, the more data we send in the better it's getting.

How are you guys liking the BCM? I'm on the fence about ordering it when I order my JB4. Is it worth it? Dunno if I will ever do a turbo swap but definitely want to make sure I'm getting all the performance out of the JB4.

I just hooked the BCM up and am hitting the target boost consistently every pull. 21-22 psi. For me it was worth it. Some days I wasnít getting above 18. For sure not in the lower gears. Looks like things are better now
Going thro some logs and it looks like my timing is around 13-14 degrees at full boost with map 5. Seems about where it always falls. Iím guessing things are gonna get hot come summer so intercooler is on the to do list.

I've owned a lot of fast cars but holy crap the ride to 60 was unreal. It's about 35 degree's and the roads finally dried enough to launch it hard. I've done a few at part throttle but this was a full 4 seconds at WOT before launching.

There seems to be 2 steps to launching, it'll hit about 3K, and then if you let it go it'll hit almost 4K but you only have a second to let off the brake.

I really want to run meth. It is great for the summer because it cools the intake charge so much. I ran meth on my SC'd Stingray and we were getting 680rwhp on 93 octane and a dead stock motor.

I felt much safer running meth and 680rwhp than I did without it at 590. It is a huge safety on blowing stuff up, nice power gains, and it really helps in hot temps.