It was once known as the House of the Sun, the home of a demi goddess and the place where the sun disappeared at night. Lava once flowed from its caldera, but now relative calm dominates its varied landscape. Sandy red desert gives way to tropical coast and lapping waves during the day and at night, millions of stars light up the sky. For thousands of years, native Hawaiians have cared for this sacred piece of land, preserving both its natural wonders and spiritual heritage. That legacy is continued today. Originally part of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, this area became its own entity in 1961 and continues the legacy of preservation and conservation practiced by the ancient peoples who once called the region home. Today, this place is known as Haleakala National Park.

Haleakala brings together the duality of Hawaii: the devastation and barren land created by the eruption of volcanoes as well as the flourishing tropical paradise that thrives on soil created by rich volcanic rock. It embodies the death and rebirth created by these fire-spewing mountains, providing modern-day humans a place to not only study the wonders of our own world but to prepare for travel to other planets. This national park highlights what makes Hawaii an American paradise.

History

The first human inhabitants of Hawaii were Polynesians who had sailed from Tahiti and the Marquesas to the island, ruling through the strict social order known as kapu and dividing the island into political divisions. Maui was first divided into 12 wedge-shaped districts known as moku, which were then further subdivided into land sections called ahupua’a. The ahupua’a divisions were often based on ridgelines. The area where Haleakala National Park now stands includes the intersection of eight moku, a point called Pohaku Palaha by the Hawaiians.

A Polynesian carving representing the hero Maui capturing the sun. According to legend, Haleakala was the location where he performed this magnificent feat.

This point was said to represent the “piko” or belly button concept in Hawaiian belief. The belly button was considered a sacred point of a person's body, the place where life springs out from. The piko of this area was considered the Haleakala caldera. The crater became important not only because of piko but because of its connection with the demi-god Maui, for whom the island is named. Maui was a hero in Polynesian myth and in Hawaii he was considered an ancient chief and demi-god.

According to legend, his mother Hina complained about the shortness of the days so Maui climbed Haleakala - in some versions where his grandmother lived - and lassoed the sun’s rays, convincing the sun to make the days longer. Haleakala means “house of the sun” in Hawaiian and the summit of the mountain was known as a wahi pana or legendary place as a result of Maui's actions. While Hawaiians did live in some of the area around the volcano, they did not live in Haleakala itself as the area was sacred. Native Hawaiians would travel to the summit for religious ceremonies including honoring the gods, saying farewell to a deceased loved one or for hunting purposes. Hawaiians did live in the Kipahulu region of the park, which has archaeological evidence of a long-standing agricultural community.

Some villages in the area were abandoned in 1750 when the last known eruption of Haleakala occurred. Kipahulu was prized by Hawaiian royalty for its fertile soil and sustained generations of farms, fishing communities and other villages. However, these vestiges of traditional Hawaiian life would soon be under threat. Captain James Cook was the first person of European descend to see Maui when his ship passed it in 1778, but it would be American maritime fur trader Simon Metcalfe who would be the first person of European descent to set foot on the island in 1790.

Early tourists stop for a picnic near the rim of Haleakala in 1909. Ten years later, the area would be merged with the volcanic territory occupied by Mauna Loa and Kilauea on Hawaii to form Hawaii National Park.

By the early 1800s, sandalwood, the whaling industry and Christian missionaries had brought new settlers to Hawaii. Soon, Hawaiian natives would be reduced to what was basically slavery, working on sugar and coffee plantations along Asian immigrants who had come to the island looking for work. Hawaii’s royal family was overthrown in 1897 and the islands were annexed into the U.S. as a territory in 1898. While the Hawaiian royal family lost their throne, they did not lose their stature within the territory and many of them continued to work for the betterment of Hawaii.

The original entrance sign to Haleakala. As the park included lands on both Maui and the island of Hawaii, Hawaii National Park would be split into two national parks: Haleakala and Hawaii Volcanoes in the 1960s.

Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalaniana'ole, who was still considered the heir to the Hawaiian throne by many, returned to Hawaii and became active in its Home Rule Party. He served as a delegate to the U.S. House of Representatives for Hawaii from 1903 to 1922. During his tenure, he worked to get a national park designation to protect some of the state’s most historical sites: Mauna Loa, Kilauea and Haleakala. Together, these two areas of the big island of Hawaii and Maui formed Hawaii National Park, which was signed into law by President Woodrow Wilson in 1916. That same year, the National Park Service was created.

However, it took six years for any funding to arrive to help the nation’s twelfth national park get off the ground. Soon, the volcano crater became a popular tourist destination and the sacred lands within the park’s walls were preserved. Eventually, Hawaii National Park was split into two factions. The site on Hawaii was made into Hawaii Volcanoes National Park while Haleakala became Haleakala National Park on Sept. 22, 1960. Today, Haleakala is made up of several diverse landscapes and is one of the biggest tourist destinations on the island of Maui. The park is comprised of 33,265 acres of land, including the area around the shield volcano of Haleakala and the more lush Kipahulu district. Hawaiian islanders have returned to farming in the Kipahulu area, educating visitors on traditional agricultural practices. The park sees an average of 1.14 million visitors every year.

Geology and Volcanology

The highest point of Haleakala is the Pu’u Ula’ula or Red Hill, which rises some 10,023 feet. The crater of the volcano is about seven miles across, two miles wide and 800 meters deep, which makes it look almost like a Martian landscape. Haleakala is actually the youngest of the volcanoes on Maui, though it is one of the tallest mountains as measured from the sea floor. The volcano has been erupting since some 300,000 years ago, but its last major eruption was in 1790.

Pu’u Ula’ula, literally translated the Red Hill, is the highest point in the park.

Haleakala has two rift zones which form an arc extending southwest from La Perouse Bay through the crater and into the Hana area of the island. These two rift zones when combined make the longest rift zone in the entire Hawaiian islands. While most people think Haleakala's crater is a volcanic caldera, it is actually formed by the merging of two large valleys due to tectonic plate movements. Though not as dangerous as lava flows in other areas of the islands, Haleakala still produces lava flows.

The Ohe'o Pools are home to rare species of fresh water fish and shrimp. These pools are part of the lush rainforest, which is a stark contrast to the dry area around the volcano crater.

The combination of volcanic rock, moist tradewinds on one side of the park and dry air on the other has created a wide variety of ecosystems within the park. The highest elevations are home to the alpine aeolian zone, which seems barren but is actually home to several species of shrubs and other plants that thrive in the most desolate of landscapes. Lower than that are the subalpine shrublands, a place where larger shrubs grow and native geese flourish.

The windward slopes of Haleakala give way to closed canopy rainforests, one of the most lush landscapes in the park. The leeward slopes, however, are home to a dry forest and receive less than 60 inches of rain per year. as a result, only small patches of greenery are found here and plants that thrive in drier conditions prevail. A riparian or stream ecology flourishes on the banks of the Ohe’o, where native fish and shrimp reside and more plants have the opportunity to grow. The freshwater fish found in these pools are extremely rare, as the Pacific Ocean is the home of most of Hawaii’s famous sea creatures.

Landmarks

The three major districts of the park all have their own unique landmarks and features, many the result of the different climates and elevations. There are two main entrances to the park but no roadways go through the entirety of the park. The Haleakala Visitors Center in the western area of the park will take visitors into the Summit area, but none of its roads connect to the coastal highway that brings visitors to the Kipahulu Visitors Center and the Kipahulu district of the park.

The Wilderness Area of the park looks like another planet.

The only way to get between these two districts is to cross the Wilderness Area in the center of the park on foot. However, the trail between the two takes you out of the park as much of the Kipahulu area consists of the Kipahulu Valley Biological Reserve, which is not open to the public. A trail for hikers extends through private lands toward Kaupo and then along the coast into the Kipahulu District.

The rainforest area of the Kipahulu District on the park’s eastern end is home to the beautiful freshwater pools of the Ohe’o stream as well as the Ohe’o gulch carved by the stream. Those who want to see waterfalls can hike either to the Makahiku or Waimoku Falls in the area. The Kukui Bay is a great place to see the coastline and visitors can take in the views from Puhilele Point or Kuloa Point. The Kipahulu Visitors Center is also located in this area. Known for its rain forests, waterfalls and rivers, this area of the park is nothing like the other two areas, which some describe as near wastelands.

The central area of the park or Wilderness Area is a haven for backcountry exploration and is accessible by the Halemau’u or Keonehe’ehe’e/Sliding Sands trails. Visitors can stay overnight here at the Kapalaoa cabins or Paliku cabin and campsite. The main mountain of Haleakala is also in this area as is the famed crater. Cinder cones including Pu’u Naue, Pu’u Nole, Na Mana o ke Akua, Honokahua, Pu’u Maile, Halali’i and Ka Moa o Pele dot this area of the park.

The western end of the park begins with the Haleakala Visitors Center, the Haleakala Observatory, and the summits of both Pu’u’ula’ula and Magnetic Peak. From here, visitors can trek by foot into the Wilderness Area or head north on the highway toward the rest of the Summit District. Here visitors can drive by the Leleiwi and Kalahaku Overlooks on their way to the Park Headquarters and Visitors Center. Beyond that is Hosmer Grove, a popular camping and picnicking area.

The view from the Kalahaku Overlook in the western end of the park.

Flora and Fauna

There is a wide variety of flora and fauna found within the park, though not all are native to the island. Many of the mammal species found within the park are the results of human introduction such as feral cattle, goats, pigs, Axis deer, cats, Indian mongoose, and a variety of mice and rats. May of these feral animals are the result of farms and ranches that let their animals loose on the island for grazing and were never able to coral them. Because these larger animals can do damage to the park, they are closely monitored so their negative effects can be mitigated. The few native mammals that do call the park home include the Hawaiian monk seal and Hawaiian hoary bat.

The green sea turtle or honu is the park's only native reptile and one of Hawaii's most endangered endemic species.

The green sea turtle or honu is the only native reptile to the park though the stump-toed gecko, bridled house gecko, Indo Pacific gecko, Indo Pacific tree gecko, mourning gecko, Oceanic snake-eyed skink, metallic skink and Brahminy blind snake call the park home. The park has three amphibian species that call it home - the cane toad, bullfrog and wrinkled frog - but none of them are native to the area. The park is also home to six fish species that are all native: the ama’ama, o’opu okuhne, o’opu nakea, o’opu alamo’o, o’opu nopili and ‘aholehole.

Two of the most beloved bird species found in the park are also the two most endangered. The nene or Hawaiian goose has long be a symbol of the islands while the ua’u or Hawaiian petrel is known for its nesting grounds atop Haleakala. Other petrels and herons that call the park home include the Great frigatebird, cattle egret, and black-crowned night heron. Bird watchers may also spy the white-tailed tropicbird, koloa or Hawaiian duck, northern harrier, barn owls, pueo or Hawaiian short-eared owl, chukar, ring-necked pheasant, kolea, akekeke, uliuli, Hawaiian noddy, rock dove, zebra dove, spotted dove, common myna, akohekohe or crested honeycreeper, apapane, and amakihi.

The plants found in the park can be divided into the ecosystems where they dwell. Plants that live in the crater aeolian desert area need to survive in near barren conditions and include ahinahina, ko’oko’olau, pilo, kupaoa, pukiawe, ulei, snakeroot, catchfly, mamne, and the endangered Hawaiian silversword. In the Kaupo Gap Mesic Forest, visitors will find denser plant life including koa, maile, kolea, mamaki, and sandalwood while the subalpine shrubland includes plants like pilo, kupaoa, noho-anu, hinahina, littleleaf stenogyne, alpine hairgrass, and laukahi.

The Kipahulu Coastal strand of the park has some of the most diverse flora including naupaka, ha’i wae, hala, papala kepau, Hilo ischaemum, and ekhana. While there are a wide variety of native species that call the park home, many non-native plants have found their way into the area as well. Some of these plants include cheatgrass, evening primrose, beggar’s tick, telegraph plant, Florida blackberry, bull thistle, fireweed, pampas grass, mule’s foot farm, and Australian tree fern.

Things to Do

Hiking is one of the most popular activities within the park and a variety of trails are available for those wanting to explore the park on foot. Those who want an easier hike can try the Huloa Point Trail, Kahakai Trail, the hike to the Leleiwi Overlook, or the Pa Ka’oao Trail.. Some of the park’s more moderate hiking trails include the Pipiwai Trail that brings visitors along several waterfalls, the Crater Trail, Silversword Loop, and the Sliding Sands Trails. Some of the more challenging hikes include the Kapaloa Trail and Paliku Trail. Guided hikes provided by rangers are a great and educational way to learn about the park and see some of its sites.

Hiking is a popular activity in the park.

Backcountry hiking is the best way to get around the center of the park as most of the trails in the wilderness area are more strenuous and take visitors through some of the most rugged areas of the park. No food or water is sold within the camp, so those hiking or backpacking through the park need to bring their own. Additionally, those hiking in the backcountry might want to bring warm clothes. Even though the area is tropical in nature, changing weather can mean severe drops in temperatures at any time.

Visitors can also camp in the park overnight in a variety of places. Those who want to drive up to their campsite can do so at the Hosmer Grove site in the Summit area of the park or at the Kipahulu campground in the Kipahulu section. For those wanting something more adventurous, they can hike to and then stay overnight in the Holua or Paliku campsite. With proper permits, visitors who hike through the wilderness area can also stay overnight in one of three cabins: the Holua cabin, Kapalaoa cabin and Paliku cabin.

Photography is another popular activity for visitors in the park as it is home to unique volcanic landscapes, rare plants, and strange geological formations. Sky watching is another popular activity during the day and at night. Cloud formations above the park are always interesting and sunset and sunrise are popular times for visitors to take in the park’s scenery. At night, millions of stars twinkle against the varied landscapes of the park.

A poi pounding demonstration takes place in the park. Visitors can learn about Hawaiian culture through a variety of activities.

Those who want to learn more about Hawaiian culture can do so through a variety of programs offered at the Summit and Kipahulu areas of the park. Many of these programs allow visitors a hands-on experience with activities such as lei making, hula dancing, poi pounding, coconut weaving, and traditional games. More privately, ancient ceremonies and Hawaiian traditions are also carried out in the privacy of the park lands throughout the year. Swimming is not encouraged in the park because of the strong tides and dangerous conditions.

Further Reading

Haleakala National Park (U.S. National Park Service) - This special place vibrates with stories of ancient and modern Hawaiian culture and protects the bond between the land and its people. The park also cares for endangered species, some of which exist nowhere else. Come visit this special place - renew your spirit amid stark volcanic landscapes and sub-tropical rain forest with an unforgettable hike through the backcountry.

Haleakala National Park | National Geographic - Haleakalā, a giant shield volcano, forms the eastern bulwark of the island of Maui. According to legend, it was here, in the awe-inspiring basin at the mountain's summit, that the demigod Maui snared the sun, releasing it only after it promised to move more slowly across the sky. Haleakalā means "house of the sun"; the park encompasses the basin and portions of the volcano's flanks.

Haleakala National Park | The National Park Foundation - Haleakala National Park preserves the outstanding volcanic landscape of the upper slopes of Haleakala on the island of Maui and protects the unique and fragile ecosystems of Kipahulu Valley, the scenic pools along Oheo Gulch, and many rare and endangered species.

Friends of Haleakala National Park - The mission of the Friends of Haleakala National Park is to assist the park and the National Park Service to achieve the purposes and goals for which they were established: to preserve Haleakala's unique ecosystems, scenic character, and associated Native Hawaiian cultural and spiritual resources.