i've had my mind set on building a db-10 out of 1inch mdf. what the heck, someone built the wo out of 1inch mdf, the db10 needs something similar. today i visited the shop where i bought the particle board for my first db build and they have 1inch mdf, but only on order...1 day waiting time i plan on taking my time, although they deliver the panels pre-cut to the sizes i want. good glue, good screws, lots of patience. no silicone this time. i'll probably use wood glue mixed with mdf dust for the seams. i want to put a plexiglass top lid and paint the inside of the box... i wonder how thick should the plexi be ?i'm working out the maths today. i plan on keeping the actuall baffle the same size and keeping the same distance from the face of the woofer to the panel with the 45 deg cut (panel F).that should decrease the volume the vented part of the box. something like mounting with magnet in vented, but i don't think 1/4" thicker would decrease the volume by much , so thicker material won't hurt. no panel flex this time. HARDCORE db10. if the shop delivers the panels friday, i'll probably start working on sunday. this will be a weekend project, since i'm in the last month of the school year.

don't use wood glue mixed with MDF dust for the Seems.use a gorilla glue or liqued nails instead.unless its really compressed it will be week.

The plexiglass lid should be okay at 5/8 mimimum at the size. anything over is better of course,if your going with 1" MDF you may as well use 1" plexi if you can get it.use a very sharp drill with a weak pitch to prevent cracking and go slow to prevent melting

jet added me in his Y! messenger list...if i won't find him there, i'll surely find him here..gex, i've planned about using 1" plexi. now i just have to find it.i oredered panels to make me ping-pong table. but the whole db and table didn't fit into one mdf board. i had to give up the panel on the top lid with the cutout. anyway, i ordered the top lid, just in case i won't find plexi.mdf will be here tomorrow. i'll start work asap. with pics this time i still have to find glue...i'm going today to the depot, to check out some glues. friggin glue, i don't know i can find liquid nails or gorrila glue over here. is liquid nails something like a nicely flowing glue ?

p.s. I didn't know they had Gorilla Tape too...... hmmm sealing plexi with tape might be better than the glue, since the glue expands. The expanding may be just uncontrolable enough it might not look pretty.Actually the tape may expand too? ???

I would use wood glue to join the MDF since it is made out of wood. Then to join the PLexi to MDF, I would rabbit a slot for the plexi to slide into, and fill it with epoxy. SLide the plexi in and your done.

I would pre-drill/counter-sink holes in the Plexi, then use weather stripping and screw the plexi into the wood. Another method I've used, but isn't as pretty, is the same pre-drill/counter-sink, but put a bead of silicone sealant on the wood and let dry, then screw the plexiglass down cinching the silicone and sealing it.

i'll have to ask about plexi tomorrow. if i manage to find plexi (and at an affordable price) i'll use some kind of sealing tape. my dad said he knows someone who worked with wood al his life, and has wood glue, the one made out of bones :-* i also have to talk to a guy that has a router, to round-over the halfmoon.thanks Bob, but such a small pack can get 'lost' during shipping. guess i'll have to stick with that wood glue made out of bones :-*

[quote author=Adrian D. link=1147870641/0#7 date=1147966538]i'll have to ask about plexi tomorrow. if i manage to find plexi (and at an affordable price) i'll use some kind of sealing tape. my dad said he knows someone who worked with wood al his life, and has wood glue, the one made out of bones :-* i also have to talk to a guy that has a router, to round-over the halfmoon.thanks Bob, but such a small pack can get 'lost' during shipping. guess i'll have to stick with that wood glue made out of bones :-* [/quote]

gorilla tape! thats cool, never seen it but now I'll be lookin.Natural wood glue will be fine on tight wood seams.Gorilla glue and its lapages brother does a good job of filling small voids and bonds more than just wood.I am rather fond of J rocks Plexi solution, you do not have to worry about drilling it.Most people make a mess of it the first time around. One small fracture can compound in a short time.at 1" plexi the odds are in your favour.

Tempered glass is pretty cheap. Has anybody ever done that?Fairly strong too. Drilling holes would be out of the question.But routering a channel in 4 pieces of wood, like a picture frame, but a channel instead of a rabbit grove, filling the channel with sealer, and stapleing the wood together. Then you could screw the wood frame to the box. I did this on the glass door of my equipment rack (no pics yet) and is very sturdy.

i tested a new position in the room today. facing the back of the room. opposite direction to where my head is facing. in the same corner where it was untill now, only i took the db-12 away, since i'm going to be switching to a single sub "setup"it sounds more 'natural', maybe a bit faster. i can't wait to try the new box. i didn't start work because a friend of mine found a few people that wanted speakers, so i've been working on other boxes. i saved a few $$ and ordered a sub similar to J_Rock's Dayton HFs but it hasn't arrived, yet. more excursion, dvc 4 ohm and higher efficiency.