Friday, August 30, 2013

The first week of August hangs at the very top of summer, the top of the live-long year, like the highest seat of a Ferris wheel when it pauses in its turning. The weeks that come before are only a climb from balmy spring, and those that follow a drop to the chill of autumn, but the first week of August is motionless, and hot. It is curiously silent, too, with blank white dawns and glaring noons, and sunsets smeared with too much color.- Natalie Babbitt "Tuck Everlasting" No summer in the winter time Will keep you warm like a funeral pyre And nothing like an august nightDrenched in your loving - Danzig "Dirty Black Summer"

Sticky, static, sultry and stuffy August, oh how I loathe thee! Without respite, your hellish waves of scroching heat wash over us like tsunamis of blistering air.From morning to evening, we suffocate and are drenched in sweat. There is no escape fom this sweltering nightmare and the only thing we can do is accept our fate and curse the heavens above for giving us an unsavory foretaste of the purgatory.Nonetheless, despite this month's unpleasant promiscuity, a part of me loves this barren, yet exquisite time of the year. Actually, there's something desperately romantic, majestically melancholic, deeply nostalgic and profoundly dramatic about August as it marks summer's last breath and announces the arrival of a new season I intensely cherish.This is the last stretch before the great god of autumn makes his gloriously thunderous entry in a whirlwind of rusty leaves and fiery hues, thus casting a funereal spell of golden death and marvelous decay wherever he goes.Thankfully, the torture doesn't last long and once we enter the third part of August, the weather becomes more friendly and imperceptible, yet unmissable signs of fall can be detected everywhere: the mornings get crispier and dawn mist repossesses the land, the sky turns a sharper shade of blue, sunsets are much more crimson than they were a fortnight ago, swallows are ready to leave while flocks of crows noisily reclaim their realm, trees begin to turn colors and mushroom as well as game hunting takes off on a shy note.

Some
days in late August at home are like this, the air thin and eager like this,
with something in it sad and nostalgic and familiar... - William Faulkner "The Sound and the Fury"The fitful breeze sweeps down the winding lane With gold and crimson leaves before it flying; Its gusty laughter has no sound of pain, But in the lulls it sinks to gentle sighing, And mourns the Summer’s early broken spell, - “Farewell, sweet Summer, Rosy, blooming Summer, Sweet, farewell!”...- George Arnold

Of course, for most people, August represents the mournful end of the holidays and the abrupt comeback to reality. Not only does the weather tend to turn grey and cold, and people's tans start to fade, but their spirits and gleefulness too.

Once the kids go back to school and vacationers metamorphose themselves into operative citizens, obedient robots, fast paced, busy and über-humorless workers again, life returns to "normal" and cheerful face expressions are replaced by crispated scowls, general irritation is once more at it's peak and everybody's rebounding with their boring old routine.

All we have left are our memories. We hang on dearly to those remnants of happier moments, because they help us go through all the gloom and long hauls that await us. They are our very own bubble of oxygen when we so desperately need to breathe and our light in the dark when we loose sight of hope...

Life is a combination of magic and pasta. - Federico Fellini

So, in order to prolong that exhilarating feeling of joy and well-being, I've decided to blog about a traditional Tuscan speciality which is reminiscent of the hotter and leisurely days: "Ricotta Gnudi With Fresh Tomato Sauce".

Gnudi, pronounced "nood-ee" with a silent "g", derives from the dialect of Tuscany. The word "gnudo" (singular form) means "naked" in English. This name refers to simple dumplings that are similar to gnocchi (contrarily to the latter, they contain no potato as this ingredient is replaced by ricotta) and are basically rustic cheese ravioli without the pasta wrapper.

Gnocchi del Casentino (or strangolapreti, strozzapreti, ravioli nudi - other ways of designating this product) might not look pretty or extremely inviting, but their deceptive appearance should not stop you from trying them. Refusing to sample this humble, yet famous fare would be a blasphemy for gnudi are overwhelmingly heavenly and quite addictive. As a matter of fact, once you've tasted those little culinary gems, you won't be able to live without them anymore (it has become a classic at my place). Made with the ripest of seasonal tomatoes, fragrant olive oil, fresh pink garlic, aromatic lemon zest and Parmesan that exude the south, this comforting and delectable dish brings a ray of Mediterranean sunshine to the table and uplifts your mood within seconds. There's no better cure for post-vacation blues!

Method For The "Fresh Tomato Sauce:1. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan, over medium heat. Add the
garlic and cook, stirring often, until it is crispy and pale brown, about 2
minutes.2. Add the chopped tomatoes, tomato paste and sugar, then season with a little salt.3. Bring to a
boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently until the sauce is slightly thick and the tomatoes have disintegrated, about 20 minutes.4. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Method For The "Gnudi":5. In a large bowl, mix the ricotta, egg, pepper, zest, Parmesan and salt until well combined. 6. Add the flour. Stir until just combined
and the mixture forms a ball (it will be soft and moist with some bits of
ricotta remaining; add more flour by the tablespoonful if it feels too wet).
7. Dust a baking sheet generously with flour.8. Using 2 large soup spoons,
shape the dough into quenelles (football shapes). Place them on the baking
sheet and dust with more flour (you should have 16).
9. Cook the gnudi in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until
cooked through and tender, 5-6 minutes (the gnudi will quickly float to surface -
continue cooking or the gnudi will be gummy in the center).
10. Using a slotted spoon, divide the gnudi among the plates/bowls. Top with the tomato sauce
and more Parmesan, plus a little chopped basil.

Remarks:If you have no fresh tomatoes, then you can use 1 (28 0z) can chopped tomatoes.You can even replace the tomato sauce with "Sage Brown Butter Sauce".The sauce can be made 3 days ahead (cover and chill) or frozen for up to 3 months.For more flavor, I fried my gnudi in a little butter just before plating them.

Serving suggestions:Serve this dish together with a green salad and some minerally rosé or northern Italian white.

Ricotta Gnudi with Pomodoro Sauce
Adapted from Bon Appetit magazine
ingredients
16 ounces ricotta (about 2 cups)
1 large egg, beaten to blend
1 large egg yolk, beaten to blend
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan or Grana Padano plus more
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt plus more
1/2 cup all-purpose flour plus more
3 cups homemade Pomodoro Sauce or tomato sauce
Preparation
Mix ricotta, egg, egg yolk, pepper, 1/2 cup Parmesan, and 1/2 teaspoons
salt in a large bowl until well combined. Add 1/2 cup flour; stir just
until combined and mixture forms a ball (mixture will be soft and moist
with some bits of ricotta remaining; add more flour by the tablespoonful
if it feels wet).
Dust a rimmed baking sheet generously with flour. Using 2 large soup
spoons, shape heaping tablespoonfuls of dough into football shapes;
place on baking sheet and dust with more flour (you should have 30).
Cook gnudi in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring
occasionally, until cooked through and tender, 5-6 minutes (gnudi will
quickly float to surface; continue cooking or gnudi will be gummy in the
center).
Using a slotted spoon, divide gnudi among bowls. Top with Quick Pomodoro Sauce and more Parmesan.
- See more at: http://www.celinescuisine.com/italian-food/ricotta-gnudi-with-pomodoro-sauce/#sthash.SyxX18a9.dpuf

Ricotta Gnudi with Pomodoro Sauce
Adapted from Bon Appetit magazine
ingredients
16 ounces ricotta (about 2 cups)
1 large egg, beaten to blend
1 large egg yolk, beaten to blend
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan or Grana Padano plus more
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt plus more
1/2 cup all-purpose flour plus more
3 cups homemade Pomodoro Sauce or tomato sauce
Preparation
Mix ricotta, egg, egg yolk, pepper, 1/2 cup Parmesan, and 1/2 teaspoons
salt in a large bowl until well combined. Add 1/2 cup flour; stir just
until combined and mixture forms a ball (mixture will be soft and moist
with some bits of ricotta remaining; add more flour by the tablespoonful
if it feels wet).
Dust a rimmed baking sheet generously with flour. Using 2 large soup
spoons, shape heaping tablespoonfuls of dough into football shapes;
place on baking sheet and dust with more flour (you should have 30).
Cook gnudi in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring
occasionally, until cooked through and tender, 5-6 minutes (gnudi will
quickly float to surface; continue cooking or gnudi will be gummy in the
center).
Using a slotted spoon, divide gnudi among bowls. Top with Quick Pomodoro Sauce and more Parmesan.
- See more at: http://www.celinescuisine.com/italian-food/ricotta-gnudi-with-pomodoro-sauce/#sthash.SyxX18a9.dpuf

Ricotta Gnudi with Pomodoro Sauce
Adapted from Bon Appetit magazine
ingredients
16 ounces ricotta (about 2 cups)
1 large egg, beaten to blend
1 large egg yolk, beaten to blend
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan or Grana Padano plus more
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt plus more
1/2 cup all-purpose flour plus more
3 cups homemade Pomodoro Sauce or tomato sauce
Preparation
Mix ricotta, egg, egg yolk, pepper, 1/2 cup Parmesan, and 1/2 teaspoons
salt in a large bowl until well combined. Add 1/2 cup flour; stir just
until combined and mixture forms a ball (mixture will be soft and moist
with some bits of ricotta remaining; add more flour by the tablespoonful
if it feels wet).
Dust a rimmed baking sheet generously with flour. Using 2 large soup
spoons, shape heaping tablespoonfuls of dough into football shapes;
place on baking sheet and dust with more flour (you should have 30).
Cook gnudi in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring
occasionally, until cooked through and tender, 5-6 minutes (gnudi will
quickly float to surface; continue cooking or gnudi will be gummy in the
center).
Using a slotted spoon, divide gnudi among bowls. Top with Quick Pomodoro Sauce and more Parmesan.
- See more at: http://www.celinescuisine.com/italian-food/ricotta-gnudi-with-pomodoro-sauce/#sthash.SyxX18a9.dpuf

Ricotta Gnudi with Pomodoro Sauce
Adapted from Bon Appetit magazine
ingredients
16 ounces ricotta (about 2 cups)
1 large egg, beaten to blend
1 large egg yolk, beaten to blend
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan or Grana Padano plus more
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt plus more
1/2 cup all-purpose flour plus more
3 cups homemade Pomodoro Sauce or tomato sauce
Preparation
Mix ricotta, egg, egg yolk, pepper, 1/2 cup Parmesan, and 1/2 teaspoons
salt in a large bowl until well combined. Add 1/2 cup flour; stir just
until combined and mixture forms a ball (mixture will be soft and moist
with some bits of ricotta remaining; add more flour by the tablespoonful
if it feels wet).
Dust a rimmed baking sheet generously with flour. Using 2 large soup
spoons, shape heaping tablespoonfuls of dough into football shapes;
place on baking sheet and dust with more flour (you should have 30).
Cook gnudi in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring
occasionally, until cooked through and tender, 5-6 minutes (gnudi will
quickly float to surface; continue cooking or gnudi will be gummy in the
center).
Using a slotted spoon, divide gnudi among bowls. Top with Quick Pomodoro Sauce and more Parmesan.
- See more at: http://www.celinescuisine.com/italian-food/ricotta-gnudi-with-pomodoro-sauce/#sthash.SyxX18a9.dpuf

Great quotes. And a great, albeit simple, dish. I haven't made this in ages and ages; nor had it in a restaurant, for that matter. And now that I think about it, I don't remember the last time I've seen it on a restaurant menu. I keep threatening to, but one of these days I really am going to make my own ricotta. This would be a perfect way to use it. Really good stuff - thanks.

I'm going to go to Tuscany next November. Now I know what to ask for: Gnudi! This is the kind of main I can die for. The dish is shot in a beautiful way... beauty and taste are in harmony here. Surrounding these pics there is your writing conveyed by words that are carefully chosen. I can "feel" your love for words as much as for good food.

I'm absolutely fascinated - I'd never heard of this dish, and it looks like my kind of thing!

It still feels like summer here, at least most days. I was in the US for autumn last year, which was so different to what I'm used to... I need to recapture some of the vibrant fall feeling, possibly by the obsessive baking of pumpkin pies ;)

Ah, yes, as I write a blog post about Italy! These are goregous and I am definitely making these gnudi, Rosa! Delicious and simple with the perfect, simple tomato topping, exactly the way we would have been served this dish in Italy. Fabulous.

I so agree about the romance of a barren, sweltering summer yet am so anxious for autumn, my favorite season, to arrive!

A lovely summer dish, which surely I will try. I love summer and not a big fan of Autumn, as here in Greece, apart from some places in the North, we don't get the lovely fall colours of Northern Europe. Although it rained today, there's still a long period of summer ahead of us to enjoy,here in Greece.

I mourn when August passes but not here in goa. In fact right now I would be happy if the heat would stop too and if it would get tropical winter cold again. =D we are on the same weather wave for once Rosa. ;)This is a dish that I hadn't had in a very very long time. i am tempted to get a fork and take a bite right away!

Beautiful photos, including the fresh tomato sauce. I love fresh tomato sauces in pasta, cous cous, etc. And of course with a glass of red wine - even better! There are so many lovely rose here in Spain!

I am ready to embrace the cooler temps in the fall. Living in Florida there is a desperate need to take respite from the stagnant heat ....I would be glad to ring the new season in with your ricotta gundi pasta dish.

Beautifully done Rosa. Love using sweet, ripened tomatoes. It's funny reading how you can't wait till the heat gives way to a new season while in Melbourne, we can't wait till summer when we can shake off all the layers and swap it with shorts and flip flops lol

I have not visited your blog for some time, simply an oversight, and so am really impressed by some of your updates and I wanted to say I simply love your recipes, your photography, your thoughtfulness in putting everything together here. Yours is a very special and unique presentation. It is obvious how much thought and care go into what you create here. Thank you!

TERRY: Thank you for your message, kind words and comment! I am ever so happy to hear that you like my work. :-D Indeed, the posts I create are quite time and energy consuming... You are welcome. Cheers.

I want to hang onto those summery recipes and nice warm weather... I have never tried gnudi before - thanks for introducing it to me and I can look for it to try at home or even restaurant. Beautiful dish - love the color of blue, red and white here...very summery!