I really doubt the trans has any "bearing" on that (pun not really intended, but noticed and not avoided). The only exception I could see is that early on I think that CJ7s with autos might have had QuadraTrac full-time 4WD, and possibly the front axle could have used different wheel bearings if it did or didn't have locking hubs.

But then again, manual trans CJ7s that long ago had 3- (or maybe 4) speed trannies. So I think it comes back to using the same bearings regardless of transmission.

Got the socket, worked great. Learned I had the wrong bearings so I repacked the old ones. Also had the wrong retainer ring ( C clamp? ). But I put it all back together and after a short test drive nothing fell off!

Well, fast forward to October state inspection. Failed. Frame rust and "the"left front wheel bearing is loose. I had the frame section replaced and both inner and outer bearings. When I put the rotor back on with washer and tightened the large wheel nut, the rotor would rock back and forth a little . I could not tighten the nut more. The bearing has some play and I can move it in and out with my finger and the oil seal is in place. Seems like I'm missing a spacer or something but I have all the parts shown in the diagram which I believe is correct. Again, it's an 85 CJ 7. ANY help much appreciated. Thanks!

There shouldn't be any movement in and out. Parts listed are the only parts that are installed - no such thing as spacers to take up slack. Both sides should assemble and tighten exactly the same. IF you have slack, then something isn't installed correctly or you have an incorrect part.

I would first verify the parts. Once you know you have the correct parts, ensure the cups (races) are seated correctly. Measure. Measure the spindles too. Then slide the bearings on the spindles to verify no binding. Measure installed cup distance through the rotor. Everything should match from one side to the other.

I find it interesting that the assembly appears to be the same as for our older jeeps - so it should be fairly straight forward.

Assemble exactly as illustrated and then use that socket to seat the assembly. A technique I was shown (on front wheels on 2WD) is to tighten the nut until it binds. Then back off and tighten by finger before securing with the keeper and cotter pin. Spin check was done afterwards.

My Service Manual describes our assembly with this type locknut/washer setup under Q-4. Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment. I can't imagine your CJ 7 would be much different. Either method should eliminate any slack.

I wouldn't drive it with slack in the bearings. Have you located a Service Manual for a CJ-7?

.... When I put the rotor back on with washer and tightened the large wheel nut, the rotor would rock back and forth a little . I could not tighten the nut more. The bearing has some play and I can move it in and out with my finger and the oil seal is in place. Seems like I'm missing a spacer or something but I have all the parts shown in the diagram which I believe is correct. Again, it's an 85 CJ 7. ANY help much appreciated. Thanks!

bend a tab of the second taperd washer over a flat on the interlock nut

The red line above is where you are actually setting the bearing clearance / preload. If it's too loose, this is the step you need to do differently. I'm not sure what the torque spec is on your Jeep, but on a lot of Dana axles it's something like torque to 50 lb-ft (and rotate the hub back and forth a few times as you bring it up to 50 lb-ft in steps), and then back it off 90 degrees. Again, I don't know if that's the exact spec for your axle.

When you say that you couldn't tighten the nut any more, I'm thinking you were talking about the outerlock nut (the blue line above). Tightening that will tighten up the bearing clearance some, but not a lot, and as I noted above, this isn't where you adjust the bearings anyway. And again, I don't know what the torque spec is for your axle, but I think something like 150 lb-ft is common for this nut. I usually can't get one that tight, so "as tight as I can get it" is usually what I aim for.

II took the right front rotoroff and tried it on the left front axle- it slid all the way on easily. Apparently I was sold the wrong inner bearing . I'll try to get the rigjt one tomorrow. The rejection sticker I got this past Wednesday is god for 15 days, so I should be okay.

Thanks nothing special . I posted my previous before I saw your comments. The nut I couldn't tighten more was the first one- the one that should "cinch up" the inner bearing. I'm convinced it is the wrong inner diameter, because I couldn't force it far enough to take out the wobble. I appreciate your reply.

Before I buy another (incorrect) bearing, where do I look to be sure what axles/hubs I have? I think the NAPA guys I'm dealing with are good- they checked the computer and the book, and the older guy looked over the shoulder of the younger one! I'll take pictures of my set up with me just in case that might help.

I'm very cautious about buying things on ebay. Unless I know the vendor that also has a store front on ebay, I'd prefer to buy a lot of parts from a local dealer (returns, guarantee, quality, returns, etc.) when safety and fitment are an issue. I know, hard to believe cheap "knockoff" parts are listed but some sellers are just trying to offload their junk. Buyer Beware.....

Things like body panels or seats can be cut/welded and adjusted. Wheel bearings - not so much.

My go to is using the takeout original part. Read the number then verify when you get the replacement. Never throw anything away until after you've verified the replacement is working. That old guy at your local NAPA may be your best ally. Crosschecking reputable jeep dealers for matching numbers could also help.

I often take in the part in with me to visually match with the new one. Parts catalogs can have errors.

You may also want to search for a dedicated CJ-7 forum where owners may have the details you need.

Rus, thank you, again. I appreciate your taking the time to reply. I've taken the bearing out that works and measured it. I am taking it with me back to NAPA, but honestly as close as I can tell they are the same. Maybe the new one I bougjt was a little out of spec.

I didnt get back to NAPA because it was too cold to work outside anyway. Maybe today. Also I'm going to measure the depth of each inner bearing cup within the rotor. Maybe the problem one is not seated properly, but I don't think that's it. Getting frustrated.

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