If you go ...

Cedar Street Grill, 23 Cedar St., Dobbs Ferry. 914-674-0706, www.cedarstreetgrillny.comHours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Closed Tuesday. Brunch for two (minus alcohol, tax and tip): $45. Good to know: There’s live music every Wednesday from 8 to 10 p.m., featuring artists who play everything from country to soft rock to folk to blues. Thursday nights are dedicated to live jazz, starting at 9:30 p.m.; it’s an open mike format, so walk-ins are welcome.

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A lot of restaurants are pushing “comfort food” these days, but more often than not, that phrase just translates to mean meals that may be familiar but sit heavy in the stomach.

But Cedar Street Grill in Dobbs Ferry offers comfort food in the best possible way, serving delicious, down-home classics made from fresh ingredients that chef Matt Kay tries to keep as local as possible. It’s clear that the 27-year-old Kay — who opened the restaurant in 2011 with his younger brother, Joe, the restaurant’s manager — has put plenty of thought and care into the preparation of each item, even when it’s just good, old-fashioned meatloaf.

Take the Sunday brunch, for example. Kay gives the Cedar Street burger from the lunch and dinner menus a nice breakfast-style twist, keeping the Wisconsin cheddar, applewood-smoked bacon and caramelized onions as toppings, but swapping out the horseradish aioli for sunny-side-up egg. Just breaking that yolk had my mouth watering.

And how many places around here have chicken and waffles? Or beer-battered pickles? On a recent visit, my husband and I decided both were winners, and we’re not the kind of couple who usually fancy things deep-fried.

But the chicken was exactly what you’d want — a plump breast that was crispy outside, juicy inside — perched on top of an oversized waffle that was clearly right off the griddle, served with Vermont maple syrup, wild berry compote on the side and dusted lightly with powdered sugar.

As for the pickles, they might sound like a recipe for heartburn, but Kay managed to create a batter recipe that keeps them light yet crunchy. (He says the trick is cornstarch). Pairing the sour pickles with a tangy, red pepper dip is a nice touch, too. And trust me: those babies were whisked right out of the fryer. They were so hot that I had to wait a few minutes to let them cool down.

But that was OK, since it gave me the excuse to sample my husband’s mac-and-cheese before he gobbled the entire bowl. Mixed with thick chunks of bacon, toasted breadcrumbs and a scattering of herbs, the only word that can be used here is “yummy.” And though we didn’t indulge in the free cocktail that comes with brunch — “it’s after noon,” winked Cathy Kay, the owners’ mother and the village’s deputy mayor who was on hand seating customers, as she often does — we were impressed with the selection: a mimosa, bloody mary or Bellini poured into a Mason jar.

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If you’ve noticed that Kay’s kitchen has a bit of Southern flavor, you’re right. Even though he was born and raised in Dobbs Ferry, he’s a huge fan of barbecue. “I’m one of those guys who in the winter is making a path in the snow and putting a steak on the grill,” he laughs.

Yet at his restaurant, he didn’t want a one-note cuisine. So even though items like fried green tomatoes are among the bestsellers, the restaurant’s motto is “true American,” which means that he throws in dishes influenced by other parts of the country, such as fish tacos, popular in Texas and on the West Coast.

In terms of décor, there’s some Western flair: Playing off the space’s brick and wood accents, the Kays added swinging saloon doors to the kitchen, a John Wayne poster on the men’s room door and a cowboy hat on a post near the entryway. Don’t picture a dark, dusty barroom, either: Large French-style windows let in plenty of light and open to the street, which must be delightful when the weather is warmer.

Kay says that his vision for the Cedar Street Grill is “a hometown kind of place” that’s cozy, friendly and makes everyone feel comfortable, from multi-generational families that have become Sunday regulars to hipsters who stop by for a burger and a beer.