For centuries the Khyber Pass has divided and linked empires and peoples, marking a frontier between Afghanistan, Pakistan and Central Asia. In safer days it was also part of the original overland route (or hippy trail) from Afghanistan to Pakistan and then onto India and Nepal.

The actual pass itself isn't at the border but stretches through the Suleiman Ranges for many KM's on both sides. The scenery on the way up is quite barren and at the end you look over Afghanistan (which looks pretty much like Pakistan).

I guess however that it's not so much arriving at the end of the road that's exciting but the trip from Peshawar to the border itself

. From hiring your own armed guard, to entering the tribal areas and passing of dozens of fortress-like homes, truckloads of Afghans (going in both directions) and the remains of British army forts. Certainly a trip not to be missed.

As we experienced first hand, Pakistani law gives way to tribal law in this region, which is why you have to travel with an armed escort. About 20 KM's out of Peshawar we had to give way to about 20 four wheel drives filled with armed (you guessed it) Men. Our guard told us that they were on their way to a rival village to hand out some justice to someone who murdered one of their own tribe members. An eye for an eye it would seem. All they have to do is get the OK from the local law and off they go all guns a blazing.

So, all in all an enjoyable day out in the lawless lands of Pakistan. We got to play soldiers with an AK47 and try and look as suave as possible in a military issue beret.