A tasty alternative: Growing fruits in containers

Published: Saturday, August 23, 2014 at 4:30 a.m.

Last Modified: Thursday, August 21, 2014 at 4:30 p.m.

Do you have poor soil limited space, limited mobility or just want a nice creative container on your patio or small porch? If so, you could consider growing fruits in containers.

Blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, dwarf fruit trees and even grapes can be grown in containers. All of these fruits grow best in full sun, although some will tolerate a little shade, like blueberries. Keep in mind that many of the fruits need at least two different cultivars, blooming at the same time for cross-pollination so if it is not self-fertile, plan for two containers.

One of the challenges to growing fruit-producing plants in containers is getting them to survive through the harsh winter weather exposed on a porch or patio. Plants that are grown in the ground will benefit from the warmth of the soil, where in a container, the soil will get colder and can drop below freezing with wind and air exposure.

Many container fruit growers will move their plants to an unheated shed or garage for the winter once the plants have gone dormant. Other options include piling compost, hay or other material around the container. Before you add soil or plant in a large container, you can add solid foam insulation to the inside wall of the container to insulate for the winter.

You can also use a plastic container inside a decorative one allowing room between the plastic container and decorative to add insulation.

Container size would be a minimum of 5-gallon capacity (approximately 18-24 inches wide and 12-16 inches deep). A 15-20 gallon capacity is best for most trees. If the container you want to use is too deep, you can always add a false bottom or fill the bottom with lightweight material like wood chips. Plastic pots are easier to move than clay ones.

Using garden soil is not recommended due to the differences in physical properties, such as drainage, as well as concern about introducing diseases. It is best to use potting soil, but there are many different mixes used in containers, such as half bagged topsoil and half bagged potting soil.

Many container growers will mix in weed-free compost, which is one of the practices I recommend when growing fruit in containers. The plants will need repotting and refreshing of soil every three to five years. Watch for the container becoming root-bound.

After planting, it’s important to keep the plants watered well, especially during the growing season of the fruit you choose to grow. All container-grown fruit plants should have water reduced in the late summer each year going in to dormancy.

Overwinter by keeping the soil barely moist. Fertilizer recommendations vary according to the fruit you are growing, but in general, a low-analysis fertilizer such as a fish emulsion weekly the first year and monthly each year after.

Grapes — Grapes tend to do better on a trellis or the many decorative structures such as an obelisk. Grapes grown in containers will usually be smaller plants and have lower yields than those in a field. They will only grow as large on the top as the roots can support underneath in the soil.

They do make an attractive vine with the nicely shaped leaves. The vine can get heavy with fruit, so a support may be necessary for the vine support system. Grapes that have their fruit clusters closer to the trunk work best in containers, such as Sweet Lace or Swenson Red.

Blueberries — Blueberry bushes can get quite large for a container and get top-heavy easy; therefore, low-bush varieties such as Brunswick and Burgundy work well. These cultivars only get 1-2 feet high and are quite hardy. Check the pH or acidity of the growing mix because blueberries require an acid soil with a pH of 4.8-5.2. Sulfur can be sprinkled lightly on the surface or mixed in to lower the pH.

Brambles — Blackberries and raspberries can be grown in containers but will have lower yields, and realize they like to spread, so division every couple of years is necessary. Prune and care for brambles as you would in soil grown. Only one plant per container is necessary. Consider thornless varieties if you are near a walkway or on a patio.

Fruit trees — Dwarf fruit trees especially apple, are ideal for containers. The size can be controlled by pruning and with the dwarf root stock. Prune potted fruit trees just as you would the ones grown in a field. If you have a narrow space, one of the columnar varieties will work for both apples and peaches.

<p>Do you have poor soil limited space, limited mobility or just want a nice creative container on your patio or small porch? If so, you could consider growing fruits in containers. </p><p>Blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, dwarf fruit trees and even grapes can be grown in containers. All of these fruits grow best in full sun, although some will tolerate a little shade, like blueberries. Keep in mind that many of the fruits need at least two different cultivars, blooming at the same time for cross-pollination so if it is not self-fertile, plan for two containers.</p><p>One of the challenges to growing fruit-producing plants in containers is getting them to survive through the harsh winter weather exposed on a porch or patio. Plants that are grown in the ground will benefit from the warmth of the soil, where in a container, the soil will get colder and can drop below freezing with wind and air exposure.</p><p>Many container fruit growers will move their plants to an unheated shed or garage for the winter once the plants have gone dormant. Other options include piling compost, hay or other material around the container. Before you add soil or plant in a large container, you can add solid foam insulation to the inside wall of the container to insulate for the winter. </p><p>You can also use a plastic container inside a decorative one allowing room between the plastic container and decorative to add insulation.</p><p>Container size would be a minimum of 5-gallon capacity (approximately 18-24 inches wide and 12-16 inches deep). A 15-20 gallon capacity is best for most trees. If the container you want to use is too deep, you can always add a false bottom or fill the bottom with lightweight material like wood chips. Plastic pots are easier to move than clay ones.</p><p>Using garden soil is not recommended due to the differences in physical properties, such as drainage, as well as concern about introducing diseases. It is best to use potting soil, but there are many different mixes used in containers, such as half bagged topsoil and half bagged potting soil. </p><p>Many container growers will mix in weed-free compost, which is one of the practices I recommend when growing fruit in containers. The plants will need repotting and refreshing of soil every three to five years. Watch for the container becoming root-bound.</p><p>After planting, it's important to keep the plants watered well, especially during the growing season of the fruit you choose to grow. All container-grown fruit plants should have water reduced in the late summer each year going in to dormancy.</p><p>Overwinter by keeping the soil barely moist. Fertilizer recommendations vary according to the fruit you are growing, but in general, a low-analysis fertilizer such as a fish emulsion weekly the first year and monthly each year after. </p><p>Grapes — Grapes tend to do better on a trellis or the many decorative structures such as an obelisk. Grapes grown in containers will usually be smaller plants and have lower yields than those in a field. They will only grow as large on the top as the roots can support underneath in the soil. </p><p>They do make an attractive vine with the nicely shaped leaves. The vine can get heavy with fruit, so a support may be necessary for the vine support system. Grapes that have their fruit clusters closer to the trunk work best in containers, such as Sweet Lace or Swenson Red.</p><p>Blueberries — Blueberry bushes can get quite large for a container and get top-heavy easy; therefore, low-bush varieties such as Brunswick and Burgundy work well. These cultivars only get 1-2 feet high and are quite hardy. Check the pH or acidity of the growing mix because blueberries require an acid soil with a pH of 4.8-5.2. Sulfur can be sprinkled lightly on the surface or mixed in to lower the pH.</p><p>Brambles — Blackberries and raspberries can be grown in containers but will have lower yields, and realize they like to spread, so division every couple of years is necessary. Prune and care for brambles as you would in soil grown. Only one plant per container is necessary. Consider thornless varieties if you are near a walkway or on a patio.</p><p>Fruit trees — Dwarf fruit trees especially apple, are ideal for containers. The size can be controlled by pruning and with the dwarf root stock. Prune potted fruit trees just as you would the ones grown in a field. If you have a narrow space, one of the columnar varieties will work for both apples and peaches.</p>