What the editors in this office were talking about after Theyskens' Theory was a gold beaded knit jacket. And it turned out there was more sparkle where it came from. As he did for pre-fall, Olivier Theyskens used a print inspired by rock crystal. It rubbed off, in a manner of speaking, on a little bolero that looked dusted with gold glitter, and on snug zip-front jackets in metallic tweed. Sheer was another big theme; when this designer was at the forefront of the trend a couple of years ago, it was hard to imagine it sticking. But stick it has, and Theyskens' long see-through black skirt still looked cool with short shorts and one of the designer's signature slim blazers.

The news here: the pants. The corduroy flares Theyskens put on his runway last February have become a fashion phenomenon. A year later, you still see them all over the front rows. Retailers love that kind of devotion, and there were tons of them at the show today looking for another hit. The designer's big idea was pleats. They gave both overdyed denim shorts and dark printed trousers stuffed into mid-calf boots a loose, slouchy fit. Too soon to say if they'll be as easy a sell as those sexy flares, but good to see Theyskens pushing the boundaries he's established for the contemporary brand.