It’s getting to that time of year again where we start to think about clipping our horses. Before clipping your horse it is important to understand if and why clipping is a good option for your horse, how to correctly clip and what type of clip best suits your horses’ needs. Carrying on from our clipping blog in December, we will now focus on the different clips that you can use.

Points to consider before you clip your horse

Before deciding on the type of clip, there are a few factors that you need to consider, which will help you decide what type of clip best suits your horse. Will you be keeping your horse in a stable or will they be turned out? This can help you decide what rugs to put on your horse after clipping and the amount of hair that will be clipped. What sort of work load will your horse be undertaking? Horses in heavy work tend to be fully clipped, whereas horses in light to medium work may be kept unclipped or have a small clip like trace or blanket.

It’s good to know what rugs you are going to be using. For example, if you give your horse a full clip, you won’t want to keep him in a lightweight stable rug, you would want him in a heavyweight rug, or use layers to keep him warm. Its all in the planning! If you know how much your horse sweats, you can decide if a big clip is needed, or if they could cope with a bib or blanket clip. Its also important to know how you horse responds to be being clipped. If they are nervous or don’t like being clipped, take your time, don’t rush and give them plenty of reassurance.

With these points in mind, we can now look at the different clips that you can give your horse:

1. Full Clip

A full clip involves clipping all your horses hair. This type of clip is usually for horses in heavy and regular work, like competition horses. It ensures that the horse dries out quickly after strenuous work. With this type of clip it is advised that they do not get turned out during the night, unless they are heavily rugged and have leg bandages to keep their legs warm.

2. The Hunter Clip

The Hunter clip is another clip for horses in heavy to medium work, like the name suggests, it is mostly used for hunters. The horse is clipped except for their legs (hairy legs protect the skin from water and mud), and the saddle area, where the coat helps protect the back from the saddle. Again, the horse will be loosing a lot of their coat, which means rugging is essential.

3. The Blanket Clip

The Blanket Clip is recommended for horses that are in medium work, and once again, the hair is left on the legs for warmth and protection. The area where an exercise sheet would be is left unclipped, which means your horse won’t get too hot while being worked. This type of clip is good for horses that can’t have a hunter or full clip if they live on grass 24/7.

4. The Bib Clip

A Bib Clip is the most simple of all the clips. It just takes off hair from the front of the neck and chest. With this clip, some people also carry on the clip under the belly to the girth line. This clip is perfect for horses in light work and horses that are turned out during the winter months.

5. The Trace clip

The Trace Clip is actually two clips in one, the high and the low trace clip. The coat is removed from the underside of the belly and the chest and neck. The hair is left on the legs for protection once again. To provide more warmth and protection, the head hair is left on for this clip. This clip is suited for horses in medium work and that are turned out during the day (once again, with rugs on).

6. Chaser Clip

The Chaser Clip is not too dissimilar to the blanket clip. With a chaser clip, hair is left on the neck, to ensure neck muscles stay warm. Again, this clip is ideal for horses in medium work and who are turned out during the day.

7. The Irish Clip

The Irish Clip is a very straight forward clip to do, which makes it ideal for young horses that may not yet be used to the clippers. Its also great for horses in light work. With this clip, hair is removed from the areas that the horse will sweat the most from (neck and armpits) This means that sweating will be reduced but the horse will still be warm in the most important places.

So there you have it, the most common clips that you may see around this winter. But as always, all horses are different and need to be clipped to meet their own needs.

If you want some more information about clips and also the actual art of clipping, have a look at this video of Mark King and her former groom clipping one of their horses: Mary King Clipping Masterclass

Welcome to part 2 of our blog mini series looking at training aids. This blog will concentrate on the pessoa and the market harborough.

The Pessoa

What is the pessoa?

The pessoa is a system of ropes and pulleys that run along the sides of the horse, with an elastic tensioner positioned behind the quarters. The tensioner is attached to the top of lunging roller. Then two lines run from the tensioner, along either side of the horse, through rings on the roller positioned half way up the horse’s body. They then continue to clip on to the bit rings via a small pulley, before being run to one of several positions on the roller.

How does it work?

The pessoa creates a connection between the hindquarters and the bit. The tensioner and its supporting lines put gentle pressure on the quarters, encouraging the horse to step further under, and so stretch and lift the back muscles. At the same time the lines running through the bit discourage the horse from raising his head too far by exerting pressure on the mouth. As soon as the horse lowers his head the pressure is removed.

What is the pessoa good for when training a horse?

– Suppleness of the back via a rounder outline
– Increased suppleness will create looser paces
– Developing topline muscle
– Improving the connection from hindquarters to bridle by forming the correct outline
– Improving engagement of the hindquarters, so transferring weight onto the hindquarters and improving balance

Can I ride in the pessoa?

The Pessoa is to be used when lunging only! It is important to remember that when using any training aids, to speak to your instructor for their advice and guidance on usage of the equipment.

Market Harborough

What is a market harborough?

A Market Harborough is in the same family as martingales. The breast strap loops round the girth and comes between the horse’s front legs, via a neck strap, before splitting into two. These go through the bit rings and then clip on to special reins that have small rings placed along them to allow adjustment. The highest ring on the reins that the harborough is clipped onto, the more severe the action of the aid. To begin with, it is advised to start on the lowest rein ring and slowly progress.

How does it work?

The Market Harborough exerts direct pressure onto the bit, and onto the corners of the mouth and bars, when the horse raises his head too far. The rider’s hand will determine the exact action and severity. Once the horse lowers his head the pressure will be released. This training aid should only be used with a snaffle bit.

Can you ride when using a market harborough?

This particular training aid may be used when riding, and is good for pole work, jumping or lunging. But once again, please make sure you are confident in the use of this aid, and if in doubt speak to a professional for advice!

What does the market harborough actually do for your horse?

– The market harborough helps to improve the horses acceptance of the contact
– The horse will gain a greater suppleness of the back through a rounder outline
– Paces may well be improved and increased looseness of the paces through suppleness
– The horse will develop top line muscle
– The use of the aid helps to improve the connection from the hindquarters to the bridle by forming the right outline

Another mini blog series looking at different training aids, how they work, why they work and what they are helping to acheieve. There are so many different training aids around today and they all do different things for our horses. Some of the more well known training aids include the De gogue, chambon, passoa, market harborough, draw Reins and side reins. When training our horse or getting them ready for the competition season, it seems there numerous aids that claim to help our horse develop a better top line, to help them engage their hind end or to achieve that perfect outline. But how much do we know about these various aids and how do we know which one is best to use on our own horses and ponies? This blog will concentrate on the training aids mentioned above, to clarify why and when each training aid could be used and a brief description of how they work. So lets begin this new mini series with the De Gogue and the chambon!

The De Gogue

How does it work?

This particular training aid acts on the bit and the poll, and also causes the nose to be pulled in. It produces a good shape when working on the flat. By encouraging the neck to be lowered and the nose to be brought in, the back comes up and the quarters engage. It acts upon the poll and the bit, putting pressure on the corners of the mouth when the horse raises his head higher than desired. Downward pressure is placed on the poll and backwards pressure on the mouth, which releases when the horse brings his head down and nose in.The horse is balanced with his back rounded and his hocks engaged – a similar shape to that which he should produce over a fence.

It looks very similar to a chambon, what is the difference?

Similar in look to a chambon, the cords pass through the bit rings instead of clipping to them, and attach either to specially adapted reins or back onto the breast strap that passes between the horse’s forelegs to form a triangular shape.

Can it be used for lunging and ridden work?

The De Gogue is for in-hand work, loose schooling, lunging or ridden work. For non-ridden training it’s used in the triangular shape and is under the direct control of the horse. For ridden work, the de Gogue can be brought into action by the special reins, but should be used alongside reins fitted directly to the bit.

So, what is it good for?

– Developing suppleness through the back
– Encouraging a longer, lower frame while being ridden
– Developing muscle across the back and loins – particularly those needed for show jumping
– Strengthening the hindquarters
– Develops looseness in the paces due to greater suppleness in the back

The Chambon

How does it work?

The chambon is used to encourage the horse to work in a longer, lower outline, using the muscles over the back, quarters and neck. It’s ideal for the early stages of a horse’s education or in retraining. By encouraging the longer, lower frame, the horse will learn to use his back muscles and engage his quarters. It must be introduced slowly and the horse must be encouraged forward into the contact to get the best results. The chambon acts on the poll and, via the bit, on the corners of the mouth. When the horse raises his head higher than desired, the bit is raised in the mouth and poll pressure is applied. As soon as he lowers his head the pressure is removed. In effect, the horse works the chambon.

How is the chambon different to the De Gogue?

A cord clips to each bit ring and then passes upwards and through a loop on each side of a poll strap. From here, the cords drop downwards to attach to a single strap that passes between the horse’s forelegs and loops onto the girth or roller. The De Gogue, passes from the bit back to the girth.

What is it good for?

– Developing suppleness of the back
– Encouraging a longer, lower frame
– Developing muscle over the back and loins – particularly good for strengthening those used for show jumping
– Strengthening the hindquarters
– Developing looseness in the paces through suppleness in the back
– Developing top line muscle

Join us for the next part in this blog mini series, where we concentrate on the passoa and market harborough.

Although some people may not think horse riders have a right to use the road, they do! Both motorists and horse riders have a responsibility to use the roads safely and consider each others’ needs. By following some basic advice and the highway code, drivers and riders can help avoid accidents involving horses on the road. Road safety is key for enjoying your riding experience!

Advice for motorists

Slow down and be ready to stop if necessary.

Look out for riders’ signals to slow down or stop.

Watch out for sudden movements, horses can be easily frightened and unpredictable.

Don’t sound your horn or rev your engine.

Pass wide and slow when overtaking; giving the horse plenty of room. Don’t accelerate rapidly once you have passed them.

On roundabouts, horse riders will keep to the left within the roundabout until reaching their exit, when they will signal left. They will normally signal right only when approaching exits they don’t intend to use.

Take extra care in country roads and lanes as this is where you are more likely to come across horses.

Always check yourself if it is clear to overtake.

Advice for horse riders

Always display fluorescent/reflective clothing on both horse and rider whatever the weather or light conditions – preferably at least two different colours that conform to BS EN1150 or BS EN471.

If at all avoidable, don’t ride in failing light, fog or darkness. Avoid icy or snowy roads.

Try to ride at quieter road times, not in rush hour.

If riding a horse that is not used to roads, ask a rider with a horse who is experienced and calm to accompany you.

Never take a mounted group of more than eight horses on the road.

If riding two abreast, move into single file as soon as it is safe for the motorist to overtake. Don’t ride more than two abreast on the road. ALWAYS leave the motorist to decide if safe to overtake. DO NOT wave cars past, if accident happens you will be held liable.

Always cross major crossings in a group, rather than trickling across one by one.

Leave details of your intended route and estimated time of return with a responsible person.

Wear accessible contact information on both you and the horse in case of separation.

Say thank you to respectful motorists, if safe to do so. This will ensure they are more likely to slow down next time they pass a horse.

What to do if an accident occurs

* Assess the situation -> decide if anyone is injured, has damage been caused and has an animal been involved. Secure any panicked animals to prevent further accidents.

* If the answer is yes -> You are legally required to remain at the scene and provide contact details to someone who has reasonable grounds to request them. Always call the emergency services if people are injured, on 999.

* All accidents must be reported in person to the Police -> ideally within 24 hours of the event, if they are not present at scene, take your insurance certificate with you when reporting the accident.

* Photographs can be taken of the scene -> do not breach any laws while using a camera.

* Law of negligence will apply to horse riders if their horse causes damage -> they also have a legal duty of care to other road users.

Every horse owner strives to protect their horses from injury and disease at all costs. But sometimes this is not always possible, but there are many things that can be done in yards to keep disease at bay. Ensuring you have good biosecurity measures and procedures in place will ensure you horse stays safe and well. World Horse Welfare have produced a brilliant information pack about biosecurity in yards, and this blog will provide you with the key information you need to protect your horse and yard.

How is disease spread?

Disease in horses is spread by many different methods, some of which include direct contact between horses, direct contact with other animals, waste products,biting insects, bodily fluids, dirty equipment, mare to foal, contaminated feed and water, vehicles, clothing and boots.

What are the best ways to prevent disease?

– Basic awareness of how disease spreads

– Maintaining good hygiene practices at all times (hand washing, cleaning utensils)

– Keeping a health record of all horses on the yard that anyone can access in case of emergency.

– Isolating a horse that is showing signs of illness (especially symptoms such as runny nose, coughing an elevated TPR readings)

What happens when a new horse comes to your yard?

In an ideal world, you would have access to the new horses health records, passport and paperwork to ensure they have not been in contact with any contagious viruses or diseases, that they are up to date with vaccines and worming. When the horse first arrives, it should ideally be isolated from the other horses for up to 21 days, which will ensure they are clear of any infection or disease, without posing a rick to the other horses on the yard.

What do you do if you suspect a horse is ill?

The most important part of dealing with a potentially ill horse is to remain calm and to ensure it is dealt with swiftly, especially if a contagious disease is suspected. Again, in a perfect world, every yard will have a isolation stable, that is away from the normal yard. Each isolation stable should have its own tools, utensils, muck heap, a dedicated person who deals only with that one horse (to prevent spread of disease), foot baths and overalls.

If you suspect a horse has a disease, isolate the horse as immediately and call the vet to make them aware of the situation. Follow veterinary advice on how to care for the ill horse. Ensure only one (or two people if needed) take care of the isolated horse. It should have its own utensils, tools, feed buckets, bedding and muck heap. Ensure the same person deals with the horse during treatment and recovery, to minimise the chance of spreading the disease. Having one key person to care for the horse also ensures that they know how the horse is progressing and they can notice any subtle changes.

It is important to monitor the horses health during its illness, by taking temperature, pulse and respiration offetern and noting down any changes. The horse should be kept in isolation until the horse is clear of all symptoms and has been visited by the vet and given a clean bill of health.

If you have an outbreak of a contagious disease, do you have to let anyone else know?

If your vet confirms the presence of a contagious equine disease, they will instruct you to notify other local yards of the outbreak. This is to ensure that no other horses are exposed to this disease. Competitions, transporting horses, moving horse to different yards, lessons at riding schools or turn out may all have to cease until the yard is clear of the disease.

What are the most likely diseases to be seen at yards in the UK?

– Strangles

– Equine Influenza

– Tetanus

– Equine Herpes Virus

– Ringworm

– Salmonellosis

If your suspect a horse on your yard is ill, isolate them as soon as is possible and phone your vet and follow their advice!

The majority of older horses have been with there owners for a number of years. After developing a strong partnership in and out of the saddle, it can be hard to decide when to start the road to retirement for your horse. But when can you really define your horse as old? All horses will individually age differently, and some horses may appear “old” at a much younger age and be able to cope with less than others. Each individual horse will also adjust to retirement in their own way. Some may settle easily into a quieter life than others when gradually introduced.

At first a horse may seem to welcome the break in work and not having to earn his keep any more, but signs such as weight loss and lethargic behaviour could indicate that he is no longer mentally and physically stimulated enough. Knowing your horse’s personality is the best way to assess his behaviour and happiness. If the horse is sound enough, he may appreciate a few quite rides or hacks to introduce variety back into his day to day life. There are alternatives if your horse is not physically able to ride out any more, such as gentle walks in hand and teaching new tricks. These could include pushing gates open or general limb movements, such as lifting the front legs when commanded, to help keep joint mobility lose.

If you are unsure about the best route for your horse, vets will always provide guidance and perform regular health checks for you if you require. Use their knowledge and other professionals, such as nutritionists to provide you with the top of the industry knowledge.

Things to consider before deciding the best route:

Is the horse sound? Many older horses with equine metabolic syndrome or equine Cushing’s disease, for example, develop secondary laminitis, which could preclude extra exercise.

Is the horse fit enough? Unfit, overweight horses are at risk of developing heat stroke, tying up, injury, and misery, so proceed with caution when dealing with “hefty” older horses.

Check eyesight and hearing, as may not be 100% and could increase the number of spooks.

Does the tack still fit correctly? Your horse will probably change shape a lot between his teens and 20s due to change in work and ageing.

Always advisable to have vets check him over to ensure there are no underlying problems that could inadvertently be hurting, injuring, or damaging your senior partner in any way.

Most importantly enjoy your horse and make the most of them without “writing them off” completely, just because of a number defining their age.

You may have heard this week that the racing legend, Kauto Star has sadly been put to sleep after sustaining catastrophic injuries from a fall in his paddock. We thought it only fitting to write a Blog looking at his racing career and his recent transition into dressage.

Kauto Star was born in France to his mother ‘Kauto Relka’. He won a series of hurdle races at Auteil racecourse, near Paris, before being sold to Mr Smith, a golf course designer who paid €400,000 (£285,000) for him in 2004, who put him in the care of champion trainer Paul Nicholls (seen in picture below)

Kauto Stars’ King George VI Chase win at Kempton Park on Boxing Day, 2006 was the first of five – more than any other horse to have won the Christmas showcase. Fans of Kauto Star saw him win the Cheltenham Gold Cup, the most prestigious race in the calendar in March 2007. The next season saw a rivalry that would go down in racing history, as he competed against his stablemate Denman.

Kauto Star continued to rack up high-profile wins – including another Gold Cup in 2009 – until he ran in the 2012 Gold Cup despite getting an injury in the build up. He was pulled up halfway through that race to a gigantic round of applause.

His retirement was announced later that year.

Fondly known as ‘The King’, Kauto Star was working with event rider Laura Collett to introduce him to the world of dressage, just before he passed away. This decision was not easily made- trainer Paul Nicholls wanted Kauto Star to retire at his yard, living a quiet life as a happy hacker, however it was decided that he would try to pursue a career in dressage under the training of Laura Collett. He appeared at Olympia to showcase his new career to thousands of equine enthusiasts, showing that he could turn his racing talent into the skills needed to compete in dressage.

Assuming work and fitness levels are suitable, if the diet is not balanced it is likely to be lacking in essential vitamins and minerals which can be causing the horse to feel a little lacklustre. These nutrients are needed by the body to release the energy content from the rest of the diet as well as for general health and well-being. Ensuring the diet is fully-balanced at all times will help make sure the horse is not lacking and so feels more willing and able to perform. Horses on a fully balanced diet who need more stamina, can be fed oil which is slow release, non-heating and has a glycogen sparing effect.

What do I feed my horse on competition day?

Ideally, your horses diet and routine will stay as close to normal as possible. Give breakfast as normal and avoid doing anything to indicate that it’s a competition day until the horse has eaten up. Then travel the horse with a net of hay or haylage to maintain fibre intake. On returning home, the horse should also receive his normal feed as normal, even if the following day will be a day off, the exertions of the competition will have drawn on nutrient reserves which need replenishing.

My horse needs the calorie intake of a competition horse but he just gets too fizzy! What are the alternatives?

Where a calmer approach is required, choosing a high energy cube, like top line conditiong cubes, is a good alternative. These are designed to be highly digestible and non-heating with levels of other nutrients to support performance to the highest levels. For sharp or stressy horses, the high oil and high fibre content of all round endurance mix is ideal for providing slow release energy, quality protein, vitamins and minerals to support performance.

Do you know the 10 golden rules for feeding?

1. Feed little and often (horses are trickle feeders and need to ensure the digestive system keeps working properly)

2. Feed plenty of bulk (roughage, hay/haylage, grass)

3. Feed according to the size and weight of the individual horse (more work requires more energy and more food)

4. Introduce new feed gradually (bacteria in the large intestine break down the feed and they have to adapt to any changes in the diet. Sudden changes can cause some bacteria to die, produce poisons and cause metabolic disorders)

5. Keep your daily feed routine the same (horses thrive on routine)

6. Feed something succulent each day (succulents like apples and carrots help to maintain the horse’s interest and adds moisture to the feed)

7. Do not ride one hour before or after feeding your horse hard feed (a full stomach will put pressure on the lungs and affect the horse’s breathing. Fast work results in redistribution of the blood in the body, leading to impaired digestion)

8. Provide a constant supply of fresh water (if this is not possible, ensure that the horse is watered before feeding so that undigested food is not washed through the digestive system too rapidly)

9. Ensure all feed utensils/ buckets are cleaned (horses are fastidious feeders and can be easily deterred from eating)

The second part of this blog series looks at the importance of the salt and water intake to the horse, especially the competition horse. When our horses sweat, they loose essential body salts, otherwise known as plasma salts. These are Sodium, Calcium, Potassium and Magnesium, which can be fed in a well balanced electrolyte in order to maintain the salt balance in the body. An average horse can lose up to 90g of body salts in just two hours work, emphasizing the need to replace the salts.

If your horse is lacking electrolytes, the horse will feel lethargic, and a continuation of this loss is highly detrimental to the horses health. As the main electrolyte is salt, it important to use a salt based product (not a solution) as it is not possible to suspend enough of the mineral salts needed within a solution.

Equine America produce an electrolyte, that comes as both granules and paste. If a horse is in medium to hard work and sweating on a daily basis, an electrolyte supplement is advised. Apple Lytes is a salt based product which can be added to the feed on a daily basis. For high level competition or endurance events, apple lytes is also available in a handy syringe for instant replenishment of electrolytes.

The importance of water must also be highlighted at this point as around 70% of the horses body weight is water. An average 500kg horse in light work will require about 25 litres of water a day. This need is increased to as much as 300% or around 75 litres if strenuous work is undertaken, this should be provided as a combination of feed and water. If you think your horse is dehydrated, you will see signs of reduce appetite, poor performance and a general lack of ‘oomph’.

When the days get longer and the weather gets warmer, many horse owners and equine enthusiasts tend to do a lot more with their horses and ponies. However, how many of us change our feeding regime in the summer compared to the winter months? A lot of horse owners tend to feed more during the summer, however, the one golden rule to remember is ‘feed in accordance to work done’.

If you overfeed your horse, it can lead to an overload of starch intake as well as other complications, and not to mention the waste of feed not being broken down by the horse. Whether you are feeding for high level competition or for light work, its imperative to make sure your horse is getting the most from his diet.

In this blog series, we will look at the additional supplements that you could feed your horse to help them to maintain a healthy and efficient digestive system. This blog will look at concentrated feed balancers.

Concentrated feed balancers

One of the best ways to ensure that your horse is getting the best from his diet, is to feed a concentrated feed balancer. This will give nutritional support to the gut and help to optimise digestive function. As the cornerstone of health in the horse, when the gut is functioning correctly, it will undoubtedly reflect in his condition and performance.

A good balancer provides a balanced supply of high quality vitamins, minerals and micronutrients to support general health and vitality on a daily basis.

NAF produce a highly effective and highly popular feed balancer. Their aim is to put balance back into the diet and to optimise the horses health. The NAF five star optimum feed balancer will restore and maintain a five star condition, topline and health, maximise the nutritional value of the daily feed ration, and optimise the health and efficiency of the digestive system. This feed balancer comes in pellet form, meaning it is easy to add to your horses normal feed, or can also be fed by itself from the hand. The pellets are formulated to complement either a high fibre low concentrate or performance diet.

By now the winter coat should be well on its way out and a lovely healthy summer coat coming through. There are many grooming items that can help with the malting process including rubber curry combs which also give massage therapy to your horse’s muscle tone and the shedding blade which is very popular as this helps remove the hair effectively in large quantities. Your horse is quite likely to thoroughly enjoy being groomed at this time of year and it will leave them feeling great.

Moving onto manes and tails, manes at this time of year may also look like they need some good brushing and attention. Using a mane and tail product, such as Carr,Day&Martin Canter Mane and Tail, Equine America Magic Sheen detangler or many of the other similar products on the market will certainly help your horses mane and tail become tangle free, shiny and looking luscious!

Mane and tail pulling may well be on your agenda for this time of year, there is the old faithful pulling comb (and don’t forget to stock up on plasters if your fingers suffer when using this method) but other popular products include thinning blades, The Solo Comb and Smart grooming products which will all help with the job making a neat and tidy mane, ready for plaiting if required.

The domesticated horse is often deprived of the correct amount of nutrients as we remove them from their natural habitat. Your horse requires several minerals to meet a variety of functional needs; these are macro minerals (those needed in relatively high amounts) There are also minerals called trace minerals (those needed in relatively small amounts) Horse feeds tend to be variable in many minerals, and as they are usually low in sodium and chloride (salt), it is recommended that you offer your horse some kind of salt source, such as a salt block.

Vitamins are classified as water-soluble or fat-soluble. Fat-soluble vitamins, include A, D, E, and K, while the water-soluble vitamins include the B complex and vitamin C. Horses, unlike humans can create their own vitamin C and therefore generally do not require it in their diet. Vitamin D is found in good amounts in sun-cured forages and sunlight. Vitamins A and E are found in variable amounts in pasture and hay, with higher amounts found in pasture during the spring months and in hay that hasn’t been stored for too long.

Often at this time of year horses can appear a little ‘flat’ or perhaps their coat is lacking its usual shine, goodness has gone from the hay and there is no grass available with any nutritional content. If this is the case then a vitamin and mineral supplement may be beneficial. There are many different types of vitamin and mineral supplements available, choose a well know brand for quality assurance and follow the feeding advice on the packaging.

Clipping, as is with most aspects of horse care, a personal preference for each horse owner. So, why do we clip our horses in the first place? In the winter, your horse will grow a long, woolly coat to protect them from the elements. If you are working your horse during the winter months, their long woolly coat can become a hindrance. Cold sweat on the coat can take a while to dry completely in the winter, and can lower your horse’s core body temperature and make it hard for them to keep warm, leading to an increased risk of catching a chill or having problems with maintaining condition. Clipping can help with this by reducing the amount your horse sweats, making them easier to dry off after exercise. Clipping can also help the coat condition and can make a horse look smart. When clipping your horse, it is also important to remember that you’re taking off their warm, efficient winter coat. Therefore, it is important to rug your horse appropriately for the type of weather during the winter.

There are many types of clips available, choosing a clip depends on how much your horse sweats, how much work you are going to be asking of them, what you think suits your horse and also, pricing can be an important factor. The harder your horse works, the larger body area it is appropriate to clip, so horses only in very light work will only require a small clip, or no clip at all if they do not sweat too much. The greater the area that you clip, you will have to ensure you keep your horse warm, with rugs, other protection and stabling.

If your horse isn’t a fan of being clipped, it is important to allow plenty of time and to apply plenty of patience when it comes to clipping time. Introducing the clippers slowly to the horse will help them become accustomed to the noise that they make and the sensation that comes along with being clipped. People often use a calmer to take the nervous edge of some horses and there are many to choose from if you wish to. However, if you feel the problem is too great for you to deal with, don’t be afraid to ask a professional for help resolving the situation.

Dressage is a very popular sport for my many riders, whether it is competing in small local competitions or right up to grand prix level. Knowing what bit is legal under the British Dressage (BD) rules is important. However, you also need to know what bit best suits your horse and whether or not it is allowed in the dressage arena.

As well as BD shows having bit regulations, unaffiliated shows are also adopting these rules too. A mix of metals in the mouthpiece, such as rubber, plastic or synthetic, are allowed, as are rotating mouth and middle pieces. The loose ring snaffles are probably the most popular legal bits, and they also come in many shapes and sizes that can be suited to each individual horse. The majority of snaffles are fine as long as they do not have twists or unusually shaped mouth pieces. If your horse is unsteady in the contact then eggbutts and D rings are recommended. Or if your horse ‘backs off’ or is highly sensitive, then straight bars or mullen mouth bits may be useful.

Any bit that has an effect on the poll (apart from the double bridle), such as a three ring snaffle, KK universal or a Pelham are not allowed in competition. BD rules also state that snaffles can be as narrow as 10mm in diameter, but young horse classes state a minimum of 14mm wide.

British Dressage rules and regulations are there for the welfare of both horse and rider. As long as the bit you are using is comfortable for your horse, is accepted by the BD rules and does what is needed, all you need to worry about is getting that top score!

It’s that time of year again when we start thinking about the winter rug season. Many people will be looking to buy new ones or source good quality second hand. If you are lucky and have horses that don’t wreck their rugs you may only need to get yours cleaned and re-proofed.

Turnouts

These come in lots of variations, from a rain sheet with no fill right through to heavyweight. Standard rugs come without neck covers, and there are combos with fully integrated necks and others that have detachable neck covers which make for a more versatile option. Every person and horse have their own preference and it will depend on many factors including the amount and type of work that your horse is doing, what kind of clip they have and even the area you live in.

Medium weights are popular and usually have an inner fill of between 150g – 220g and heavyweights are usually 300g – 450g, good for horses that are fully clipped, when it gets snowy and really cold, or you are up in the North!

100g fill rugs are increasingly popular as they are good for Spring and Autumn rug season when the weather is slightly cooler but not cold enough to start really wrapping them up.

The denier of a rug is the outer layer and determines the strength of the outer fabric, most turnout rugs are between 600 and 1200 denier, with the highest being the strongest. There are also rip stop fabrics which help prevent tears spreading.

There are a lot of brands on the market, each with a slightly different fit so getting advice from your local tack shop can be helpful if you are unsure.

Every horse person will have their own view on what rugs should be used. However, nature does work with horses and they will grow their hair according to how cold they are. It’s probably the wet that they suffer from the most.

What size is your horse?

Check other rugs for sizing or alternatively measure your horse from the centre of your horse’s chest to the middle of his tail. Most rugs are measured in feet and inches, but most usually have the cm equivalent too.

Starting out eventing? Well here is our Eventing Kit Guide; Eventing can be a daunting experience with not only one but three disciplines to perfect and whether you are competition in un-affiliated or affiliated BE events we have put together a simple kit guide to make sure you have everything needed.

Dressage

For Your Horse

Saddle: English or conventional style

Bridle: You are permitted to use a snaffle or micklem bridle with flash/ crossed including. grackle/mexican or dropped noseband only

Our guide is based on un-affiliated one day events as well as British Eventing levels BE80, BE90, BE100 and Novice however, above this you may need to adjust your kit slightly to meet British Eventing rules and regulations. If you’re still confused about what to wear and need some more questions asked then we have added a link to the British Eventing Website. We hope this has been helpful to you all, and good luck at your events!

Whatever discipline you compete in, a good supply of show products are essentials. Here are our top recommendations and tips to ensure your horse is groomed to perfection this summer.

Whitening powder and stain remover sprays – These are fantastic show products for covering stains, blemishes and scars. They are also fabulous on those dreaded yellow stains your horse manages to ingrain in their coat before a show. There are a wide range of show products for whitening including chalk blocks and powder.

Shampoo – An essential for all horses in summer, but with many on the market it can be a headache to choose which. Our best sellers include the ‘Wahl Showman’ range with a fantastic selection at great prices. Wahl Dirty Beasty is made from only natural ingredients but still powers through thick, matted coats (and smells lovely) and the Wahl Diamond White Shampoo which cleanses and enhances for a brighter white dazzling coat.

Coat conditioners/ detanglers – Fantastic for minimising time and effort when grooming, as well as minimising hair loss with constant brushing. Carr & Day Martin’s Canter Mane and Tail Conditioneris a popular favourite all year round and a reasonable priced option. Supreme Products, Groom Away and Barrier ranges all have fantastic show products. While Carr & Day & Martin’s Dreamcoat is great for the extra special show ring occasions, this show product gives a fantastic coat shine without a greasy finish.

Grooming –Soft brushes such as those made from goat hair are great for finishing, giving your horses’ coat that last minute gleam. Slicker brushes are useful for quarter markings and closely bristled body brushes for applying sharks teeth to make your horse stand out. Sponges and stable rubbers are also an essential part of your kit.

Hoof Care – There are a range of oils, dressings, varnishes and glosses designed to assist growth, care for brittle, dry or damaged hooves as well as products to enhance the hooves allowing them to sparkle in the ring in both clear and dark options. We find the Carr & Day & Martin Cornucrescine Tea-tree hoof oil, whist providing anti bacterial properties for hooves, also gives an amazing show ring shine.

Mane and Tail – Mane and tails can always be pulled by hand , for pink lovers there is the lincoln pulling comb but now with a wide range of thinners and pulling combs available, these tasks are now both easier for you and more humane for your horse. Brands such as the ”Solo’ and ‘Smart’ range, have a good choice of products for these jobs.

Plaiting bands and thread are of course another necessity for smart turnout. Both come in an array of colours and those made from silicone are increasingly popular due to their extra strength.

Tail bandages, covers, body wraps, summer sheets, hoods and leg bandages are all also beneficial for keeping your horse clean prior to events to reduce your grooming time, allowing more time for riding!

Show baskets are normally made from wicker and can be used to keep all your essentials together for last minute preparation.

Preparation is key to good turnout and regular grooming will keep your horse’s coat in tip top condition, making it quicker and easier to prepare for a show.

With the show season upon us its time to start dusting off our kit and planning for the season ahead. With many different classes it can be rather confusing deciding what you should wear. Our simple guide outlines the basics for each category, to ensure you’re the top contenders in your class! Further information can be found at www.bsps.com and www.britishshowhorse.org/

Show pony & Intermediate Show Riding Type

Lead Rein & First Ridden:

Navy show Jacket – with buttonhole

Canary jodhpurs

Brown jodhpur boots (Black acceptable)

Brown Leather gloves

Shirt and tie

Rider hair bows

Intermediate:

Dress code is as above. When progressing into Intermediate classes top boots are worn and are preferable to gaiters or half chaps. Intermediate riders should have their hair in a bun. Scrunchies may be worn but again discreet ! “Bling” is not encouraged!

An essential first aid kit should be part of all horse owners equipment and with the start of the show season its a good time to check yours to make sure you have all the essentials, be it for home or for travelling and shows.

A basic essential first aid kit should have the following:

Cotton Wool, Poulitce, Gamgee and non stick dressings

Antibacterial scrub

Sterile saline

Wound gel and cream, such as Derma Gel, Dermoline cream and purple spray.

Vaseline/Petroleum jelly

Selection of bandages such as vetwrap, elastoplast, stable bandages and bandage pads.

Scissors and thermometer

Other items that would benefit the kit would include items such as Head collar and rope, hoof pick, a Torch, towels and a clean bowl or bucket.

These items should be kept in a clean dry box where everyone can find them an used or expired items replaced immediately. The box should be labelled clearly and should include contact numbers for your veterinary surgeons.

The aim of first aid is to take immediate action when an injury is discovered, to prevent the condition getting worse while awaiting veterinary assistance.

Cuts and grazes are the most common injuries that are likely to need attention and actions must be taken to stop bleeding and prevent infection.

Knowing your horse will help you spot any thing out of the ordinary and regular checks will also help spot early signs if something is wrong.

Knowing your horse’s vital signs will help to determine if something is wrong.

Normal respiration rate is 8-12 breaths per minute at rest, temperature should be 37 – 38.5 degrees C, nose and eye membranes should be salmon pink in colour.

Winter is hard on horses and this winter particually, due to the constant wet ground. Hooves are either constantly submerged in wet muddy conditons or always changing from wet to dry causing stress to the hoof horn.

There are many products available for various purposes so do some research and find out what your horse needs. Your farrier will let you know what condition the hooves are in and how you can help your horse.

Barriers which work to keep excess moisture out are popular at this time of year, CarrDayMartin’s Daily Hoof Barrier is a great every day brand that people trust and is affordable, you can find lots of tips and good advice on their website www.carrdaymartin.co.uk. The Keratex hoof care range, while more expensive is very trusted throughout the horse community.

Thrush is a common problem year round but more so in winter as bacteria breed in warm and wet conditions, hooves should be picked out and kept clean as thrush can travel deep into the sensitive tissue within the frog causing pain and lameness. Iodine and copper sulphate based solutions are effective aswell as anti bacterial hoof ointments. CDM Tea Tree Oil is great for thrush prevention and treatment and also popular is Kevin Bacon Hoof Dressing, which when applied daily prevents thrush and maintains healthy hooves. These applications can also be used weekly as a preventative measure in horses and ponies prone to such infections, check out www.alltimeequestrian.co.uk/product-category/hoof-products/ for all the hoof products available on our website.

Feed supplements containing Biotin among other vitamins and minerals can be beneficial. NAF’s ProFeet liquid is an advanced formulation with biotin and nutrients supporting healthy horn growth, or Equine America’s Hoof Power Plus, which is a biotin rich daily supplement and particularly beneficial for horses with weak, brittle or slow growing hooves.

What ever it is that works for you and your horse when keeping their feet right is worth the effort as we all know the expression, No Foot, No horse!

So the dark days and sub-zero temperatures are rapidly descending on all of us, and when you have horses, it can really get tough!

There are plenty of winter ailments that spring up when horses are turned out in wet boggy conditions. One of the most common is of course mud fever. Mud fever is not just caused by mud – it is attributed to bacteria that can enter the skin and is found in damp conditions, for instance wet feathers.
Symptoms of mud fever can vary from mild lumps to very severe infection and usually the skin oozes serum, which dries into scabs, creating a lumpy skin surface, that can swell and become inflamed. Luckily, there are a few ways to tackle this condition.

The first is with prevention; you can try to prevent the wet and mud clinging to your horse’s legs in the first place by using turn out wraps on the legs or alternatively applying a barrier cream or powder, such as Keratex Mud Shield Powder, which we stock and is very popular with our customers.

Treating mud fever can be an uphill struggle, but keeping affected areas clean and above all as dry as possible is key. A specially formulated antibacterial scrub such as TriScrub or Naf equiCleanse can help to remove dead skin and promote healing; skin should be gently but thoroughly cleaned and the scabs should be gently removed for the healing process to begin (poultice if necessary, don’t just pick them off). The hair may need trimming away to aid cleaning and a wound gel or powder may be applied. The affected area will appear raw and will be sore, so it’s important to try to keep on top of the condition.

We understand that this can all sound a bit overwhelming and daunting if you’ve never had a horse that suffers from mud fever before. An excellent treatment plan to follow is the Carr Day & Martin 3 step mud protection program of Cleanse-Heal-Protect, which involves washing the affected areas with their Gallop Medicated Shampoo, then applying the Wound Cream and wrapping the legs in cling film (not too tightly!) to soften the scabs overnight so they can be removed without picking them, finally being followed by the application of ProtectionPlus, their excellent waterproof antibacterial barrier cream, which protects the vulnerable areas whilst natural antibacterial agents fight off the fever causing bacteria.

Once a horse has suffered from mud fever there may be a recurring sensitivity to the problem, so prevention is an important tactic in tackling mud fever.

This time last year shows were being cancelled left right and centre, the biggy of course was Badminton, so it’s great to see the sun shining and the ground dry enough to park the lorries.

Of course with the sunshine come seasonal problems for some horses, the flies and midges can be a real pest and some horses react badly to bites causing lots of uncomfortable lumps and bumps. We stock a range of fly sprays and the Deet based ones are definitely extremely popular at the moment, customers are saying that it helps with the flies but it’s really effective for midges too.

When I was a kid with ponies at home there was no such thing as a fly rug and I have to say I am somewhat sceptical about new fangled ideas but can really see the benefit of fly rugs and masks. As well as with the obvious benefits of keeping the flies off the horses skin and reducing irritation there is also now the sun factor to consider and as its so much stronger these days the vets are actually recommending fly rugs for UV protection too, something to strongly consider if you have a pale skinned horse.

Sweet-itch can start to become a problem once the weather warms up and from listening to many people it seems that keeping on top of it before it really breaks out can really help with some horses. There are lotions and potions that work for some and not for others and it can be a trial and error process to get the most effective product. Your vet will certainly help advise you on prevention and treatment but there are some basic procedures that will almost certainly help, such as stabling in the evening, not turning out near water, poo picking fields and keeping the muck heap away from the turnout areas.

For un-diagnosed problems you should always consult your vet as there could be underlying issues that may not have been considered.

Getting your horse to sparkle takes time and effort but can have very rewarding results.

The day before the show is the best time to bath your horse and using a horse shampoo gives the best results as the pH levels have been tested and are balanced for a horses’ coat. For greys and stains there are many products to help with extra whitening and tough stains.

To get the best results you can either add the shampoo to a bucket of water and use a sponge or brush (a dandy would be most effective) or apply directly to the coat and rub in with a sponge or brush. Get a good lather up and make sure you get all those hard to reach places.
For best rinsing the hose pipe is by far the easiest although not all horses are a fan (mine used to grab it and spray me!). If they won’t let you near them with the hose then try a bucket and sponge. Make sure you get all the soap out to avoid any irritation and using a sweat scraper is really helpful for getting the excess water off the coat quickly. If it’s a hot day they will dry quickly but you can speed this up by walking the horse. If the weather is against you then use a sweat rug until they are dry.

There is nothing more lovely than a well groomed tail and detanglers are a great help and addition to any grooming kit, however care is needed not to over use as they tail can become greasy looking. I always brush the tail to get the worst knots out and then use my fingers to get the rest of the tangles as this seems to ‘fluff’ up the tail at the same time and avoids lots of hair being pulled out. The tail should be cut neatly to just below the hock length when help with an arm under the dock so its not too short when carried.

Once they are dry you can give them a once over with a soft body brush, finishing cloth or grooming noodle which will bring their coat up nicely. Ensure feet are clean and picked out and feathers are brushed or combed through. Chalk or whitening products can be used for extra whitening.
Some people like to remove whiskers which can be done with a horse shave and obvious care should be taken. Ears and a bridle path can be trimmed to look neat.

The morning of a show you will need to give him the once over and remove any stable stains. A dry shampoo is useful here to save washing again but if washing is necessary use a sponge and bucket and just a small amount of water and shampoo to avoid too much lather. Once groomed a coat gloss is a great addition for an extra sparkle and will help keep the dust and grease off the coat.

If plaiting then a quick plait spray can be helpful as it ensures the mane lies down making for a neat and tidy plait whether using bands or sewing.
Ensure your tack is gleaming, boots polished and hair is tidy under your and that you are well presented.
Apply hoof polish just before you go into the ring so its shiny without everything being stuck to it.

Welcome to our new online shop. It’s very exciting to launch the new website with the facility for online shopping as I know lots of you are internet shopper addicts.

We’ve spent a lot of time making sure that the site is easy to use, functions well and of course looks good so we would love your thoughts and opinions on how it’s working for you and what you think.

Products are being uploaded all the time so if you can’t find what you’re looking for then please do check back to see what’s new. There will be featured products and special offers to keep your shopping taste buds tantalised.

Our blog pages will have all the latest product reviews and topical/seasonal advice. If there is something that you would like us to review or survey, please do get in touch with your ideas.