L'Estellan, Gordes

Concierge.com's insider take:

Though it has its own gift shop, L'Estellan is anything but a tourist trap. Located in the Lubéron valley east of Avignon near Gordes, the clientele here is largely local, but the food is remarkably sophisticated. Many dishes play with sweet-and-savory combinations: An amuse-bouche pairs olive tapenade with vanilla extract, and a tart combines quail and fig compote. Salads are very fresh, if a trifle staid; skip the pot au feu–style poached pike perch in favor of the rich cod and haddock hash topped by an aromatic marjoram sauce. Wines are local and quite reasonably priced by the glass or pitcher. A glassed-in terrace and outside seating make the most of the rear garden in summer and fall, though inside dining is set in a classic beam-ceiling Provençal room. The friendly service can be a tad on the leisurely side, but you didn't come to Provence to hustle, did you?