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Yes, two common approaches are to sawcut the original slab to accept the heating cable, and to install the heating cable in a topping slab. Please call your local nVent Thermal Management representative for help with your design and installation details.

The basic calculation is: Power Output of the heating cable(Watts/ft) X the length of cable(ft) X the amount of time the system is on(hrs) You can use our Snow Melting and Deicing Calculator on our web site at http://www.nVentthermal.com/design-tools/online-tools/snow-melting-and-de-icing-cost-calculator/ to help with the calculations.

This is a frequently misunderstood issue. Article 300-5. Underground Installations, applies to wiring methods for buried cables and conduits. It does not apply to de-icing and snow melting applications. The requirements for RAYCHEM ElectroMelt applications are covered under Article 426 and state: With respect to scope: ARTICLE 426 -- Fixed Outdoor Electric Deicing and Snow-Melting Equipment A. General 426-1. Scope The requirements of this article shall apply to electrically energized heating systems and the installation of these systems. (a) Embedded. Embedded in driveways, walks, steps, and other areas. (b) Exposed. Exposed on drainage systems, bridge structures, roofs, and other structures. With respect to other Articles (including 300-5): 426-3. Application of Other Articles All requirements of this Code shall apply except as specifically amended in this article. Cord- and plug-connected fixed outdoor electric deicing and snow-melting equipment intended for specific use and identified as suitable for this use shall be installed according to Article 422. Fixed outdoor electric deicing and snow-melting equipment for use in hazardous (classified) locations shall comply with Articles 500 through 516. Specifically with regard to depth of burial: 426-20. Embedded Deicing and Snow-Melting Equipment (a) Watt Density. Panels or units shall not exceed 120 watts/ft2 (120 watts/0.093 m2) of heated area. (b) Spacing. The spacing between adjacent cable runs is dependent upon the rating of the cable, and shall be not less than 1 in. (25.4 mm) on centers. (c) Cover. Units, panels, or cables shall be installed as follows: 1. On a substantial asphalt or masonry base at least 2 in. (50.8 mm) thick and have at least 1½ in. (38 mm) of asphalt or masonry applied over the units, panels, or cables; or 2. They shall be permitted to be installed over other approved bases and embedded within 3½ in. (89 mm) of masonry or asphalt but not less than 1½ in. (38 mm) from the top surface; or 3. Equipment that has been specially investigated for other forms of installation shall be installed only in the manner for which it has been investigated. (d) Secured. Cables, units, and panels shall be secured in place by frames or spreaders or other approved means while the masonry or asphalt finish is applied. (e) Expansion and Contraction. Cables, units, and panels shall not be installed where they bridge expansion joints unless provision is made for expansion and contraction.

We do not have anything in writing saying that the cables will not have a detrimental effect on concrete, however, PYROTENAX MI heating cables have been installed many thousands of snow melting jobs over the past, probably, close to 50 years or longer. I personally have designed about 650 to 700 snow melting jobs per year for the past nine years, most of them for installation in concrete. I know of one contractor alone who has installed over 2000 snow melting jobs in the Toronto area over the past 15 years. One of our wiring sales persons, who formerly worked for a competitor said that they had tested their MI cable up to 45 watts/foot in concrete with no effect on the concrete. We run ours up to 30 watts/foot maximum in concrete, so I would have to assume that this lower wattage would have less of an impact on the concrete. Because of heat conduction into the surrounding slab, the sheath temperatures of heating cables embedded in concrete do not run much higher that the temperature of the slab itself, so the slab surrounding the heating cable should run cooler than the concrete during a hot summer day. If the slab is structurally sound to begin with, and the heating cables are installed as shown in Enginering Information Sheet H1, the cables and the slab should last a long time. This does not mean that concrete will not crack. Concrete cracks, period, due to stresses placed on the slab. Our 50 foot long snow melted front entrance has a crack about every four feet and the cables are still working fine, but this 50 foot long slab does not have any control or expansion joints. Expansion joints should be installed at least every 20 feet in any one direction to relieve these stresses. If this is not possible, then control joints (saw cuts) should be installed every 20 feet and crossed as shown in engineering sheet # H1 if using MI cable. Contact Technical Support at 650-474-7709 or emailto: ptm-techsupport@nVent.com"> for a copy of engineering sheet # H1.

There is no minimum temperature, however, our RAYCHEM IceStop design guide has a minimum start-up temperature of 0¦F(-18¦C). The start-up temperature is a key element in determining the maximum circuit length for a given circuit breaker size. Keep in mind that roof and gutter ice melting systems should be started before the temperature falls below 32F (0C) for maximum protection against ice dams and icicle formation.

You can use RAYCHEM IceStop cable for a heated metal drip edge to keep icicles from forming. Or if you have a gutter attached, we recommend it be bent over the edge and attached to the gutter to provide a continuous drain path from roof to gutter. See our IceStop Design and Installation Guide for details at www.nVentthermal.com.

A heating cable installed in the bottom of the gutter and in the downspout will provide a drainage path for water that makes it to into the gutter. Be sure to keep the leaf guard area clear of debris(leaves, twigs etc.). If the debris blocks water from getting the to gutter then you may form an ice dam.

Technically, he could use it the same way he would use RAYCHEM XL-Trace heating cable. He would use GT-66 glass tape to attach the heating cable to the pipe and the pipes have to be insulated. Now that I have told you that, he must be made aware that there are no approvals for IceStop installed on piping and there are no warranties when the cable is used in a manner not covered by the installation instructions for that particular heating cable. Additionally, if the control for the gutter system is a gutter sensor then the pipe tracing will only come on if it is snowing.

For your average 5 inch or less gutter, RAYCHEM IceStop cables are typically not fastened. They simply lay in the bottom of the gutter. If the gutter is 6 to 12 inches wide, then we recommend 2 runs held in place with our GMK-RC roof clip or GM-RAKE hanger bracket. For more information on these fastening methods, see our IceStop Roof and Gutter De-Icing System; Design, Installation and Maintenance Guide at www.nVentthermal.com.

Our RAYCHEM IceStop cables are for keeping drain paths open to remove melt-water. The IceStop guide does not address melting snow off a roof and/or reducing snow load. Call Direct Marketing at 1-800-545-6258 in order to get you in contact with a nVent Thermal Management representative.

Even if energized in the summer, RAYCHEM IceStop will not damage most roofing materials, since material in contact with the heating cable will see a maximum temperature of 136F when energized on a 77F day. Please call Direct Marketing at 800-545-6258 for additional data on component temperature.

The Nation Electrical Code in Article 426 requires all exposed deicing and snow-melting equipment be used with ground fault protection. RAYCHEM IceStop heating cables must be installed with ground fault circuit breakers. This insures that the circuit breaker will trip should the energized cable contact a metal roof. We do not recommend using water that has been in contact with IceStop cables as potable water.

RAYCHEM IceStop has a tougher fluoropolymer (Tefzel) jacket. RAYCHEM WinterGard Wet employes a less rugged polyolefin (thermal plastic rubber) outer jacket. IceStop has been approved by UL, CSA and FM for deicing in Ordinary and Classified Areas. The RayClic components have also been approved by the same agencies for Ordinary and Classified Areas. WinterGard Wet is approved by UL and CSA for Ordinary Areas only. IceStop can be run on longer circuit lengths than WinterGard which reduces the number of circuits required and greatly reduces the overall installed cost. IceStop is warranted for 10 years whereas, WinterGard is warranted for 2 years. IceStop is a "specifiable cable" and is used in the Commercial Construction and Industrial projects by architectural and engineering firms. The ratio of heating cable per foot of roof edge is the same for IceStop and WinterGard. The tables use a different tracing height which makes it seem as though more IceStop is required. The table for WinterGard Wet states that for a 12" overhang 2 feet of cable are required for an 18" tracing height. The table for IceStop states that for a 12" overhang 3.1 feet of cable are required for a 24" tracing height. The difference between the length of cable per foot of roof edge is 1.1 feet. The 24" tracing IceStop height requires 1.1 feet more cable to cover the extra 6" of height vs. 18" for WinterGard Wet.

"RAYCHEM RayClic power connection kits are designed to be hard-wired to a branch circuit from a circuit breaker panel. This is usually done with rigid or flexible conduit connected to the 1/2 inch hub on the component. The component cold leads are fed through the conduit to a junction box where they are connected to the branch wire with wire nuts. The National Electrical Code in Article 427-22 requires all electric heat tracing cables be protected with a ground-fault circuit breaker. Assuming the contractor installed a thermostat; the best way to test the heating cable would be to energize the circuit and set the thermostat to turn on below the ambient or pipe temperauture. If the thermostat is a fixed-setpoint (AMC-F5) type, the sensor will have to be cooled with ice or cold water. If a thermostat was not used, as soon as the cable is energized it will start drawing current regardless of the ambient temperature. The current will initially be high but will decline as the cable and pipe warm up. The cable will feel warm to the touch but the best way to determine if it is working is to use a portable amp probe and measure for current flow. If it does not heat up, check that the screws inside the RayClic-PC have been fully tightened. To check if they have, measure the resistance between the 2 black conductors that exit the RayClic-PC. If you have an ""OPEN"" circuit then they are not tight enough "

This is controlled by inspectors on the local level. Our policy is to make each component accessible for testing and trouble shooting the system. However, this is not always possible due to structural or esthetic restrictions. We recommend you contact your local electrical inspector to see what their interpretation of the code is.

Our published circuit lenght is 250 ft (76m) of sensor cable. Our test data shows that it will work with up to 330 ft/100 meters of sensing cable jumper cable is not counted as part of the circuit length. However, if that much sensor cable is required, it is advisable to use additional TTC sensing circuits, or a TRACETEK TTDM-PLUS or -128 alarm module that detects and locates.

The sensing cable operates at low voltage, and when driven by intrinsically safe output circuits, may be located in Class I Division 1 (C1D1) hazardous locations. The alarm module is normally located in an ordinary area. Consult the product data sheets for specific approvals information on each product.

Two years from date of purchase on cables, modules and components. This can be extended to five years by completing the Extended Policy Form at http://www.nVentthermal.com/application/warranty-10-Year/index.aspx

Yes. We make cables that can be powered in a voltage range of 208V-277V and we also make cables that can be powered at 120V. To identify the voltage a cable can be powered at, you will find a 1(120V) or a 2(208V-277V) in its catalog number. Examples; the 120V RAYCHEM XL-Trace catalog number would be 5XL1-CT or 8XL1-CT. The 208V-277V RAYCHEM XL-Trace catalog number would be 5XL2-CT or 8XL2-CT. RAYCHEM WinterGard Plus 120V cable is H612 and 208V-240V cables are H622. Never power a 120V cable at 220V, it will produce about 400% more power and be quickly damaged. A 208V-277V cable powered at 120V will only produce about 25% of its rated power.

In most cases the heating cable will be installed along the pipe in a straight run. Extra cable is required at heat sinks, like valves, flanges and pipe supports. In some cases the cable may have to be spiralled around the pipe or may need to be double-traced, if the heat loss from the pipe exceeds the cable's per-foot wattage. We have several design and installation manuals that show how to install the heating cables. These manuals can be found at www.nVentthermal.com.

As long as the design is done properly and the contractor follows our installation instructions correctly, there should not be any problems. The correct RAYCHEM XL-Trace cable must be selected for the type pipe, type and thickness of insulation, minimum ambient temperature and voltage. The contractor must test the insulation resistance of the cable according to the installation instructions and it must pass the minimum resistance requirement of 1000 megohms at 2500Vdc. EPD 30mA GFI circuit breakers must be used to comply with the NEC code. The cable should also be tested annualy with an Insulation Resistance test meter.

Never twist the bus wires together! Our self-regulating heating cables are a parallel heating circuit. The ends must be terminated with the end seal provided in the kit or ordered separately and must be the end seal designed for that particular cable. The wires are left parallel and the outer jacket and ground braid must be stripped back to the dimensions listed in instruction sheet. Twisting the bus wires will cause a short circuit that could damage the cable and trip the circuit breaker.

The easiest way to determine the circuit length of RAYCHEM XL-Trace is to use the Capacitance Method. This is done by connecting a capacitance meter, set to the 200nF range, to the bus wires and braid of the heating cable. If you do not have access to a capacitance meter, a Fluke 87 multimeter has a built-in capacitance meter that can be used to calculate the cable length. Take the capacitance reading obtained and multiply it by 5.8 to calculate the cable length.

The National Electrical Code requires a ground fault protection device for any electrical heating cable circuit. nVent Thermal Management strongly recommends the use of these devices. There are two basic types of ground-fault protection; one for personnel protection with a 5 to 8 mA trip level, and the other for equipment protection with a trip level of ~30 mA of leakage. The N.E.C. specifies equipment protection for heating cable systems. You can use a GFEPD circuit breaker with a 30mA trip level (120V or 208V-277V). nVent Thermal Management RAYCHEM WinterGard product offering includes our RAYCHEM H908 120V Plug-in Power Connection Kit, or the RAYCHEM H921 120V Ground-Fault-Protected Junction Box Kit meant for use with the RAYCHEM H900 Power Connection Kit. Also, if using our preassembled RAYCHEM Gardian heating cable, the RAYCHEM H931 Plug-in GFCI Adapter is available. The Frostex system for residential use has a built-in equipment protection device in the Flexfit 9800 Plug Kit.

You can put RAYCHEM WinterGard Wet in a drain pipe as long as the power connection and end seals are not immersed in water, which means they have to be brought out of the pipe. Also, the drain pipe can only contain water and cannot be pressurized. Circuit lengths for cable exposed to water, such as in a drain line or on a roof are shorter than standard pipe freeze protection circuit lengths. Assuming a 40°F startup temperature on a 120V - 30A circuit, WinterGard Wet can be run 150 feet. On a 240V - 15A circuit WinterGard Wet can be run 250 feet.

RAYCHEM HWAT-R2 heating cables are UL, FM and CSA approved for use on hot water pipes for temperature maintenance. RAYCHEM XL-Trace heating cables should be used for 110°F oil maintenance. HWAT-R2 should be able to maintain 110°F on a 2” line with 3” of fiberglass insulation powered at 208Vac with a 0°F ambient. The heat loss is 3.9W/ft and the cable produces a minimum of 5.2W/ft at 110°F.

We have two SR heating cable that can go inside of roof and gutter drain pipes. They will provide a path for water to flow through the pipe, they might not keep the entire pipe open. The approvals are limited to roof and gutter drains. The only way a heating cable could be installed on the outside of the pipe is if the pipe is insulated and waterproofed. There are no approvals for heating cables installed on the outside of any pipe that is not insulated and weatherproofed. Plus, the heating cable would be heating the concrete more than it would be heating the pipe is concrete is a good heat transfer medium.

Yes, we carry UV ratings for our XL-Trace and IceStop products. Weatherometer testing is part of the agency requirements for heating cables installed outdoors, even ElectroMelt was tested for UV stability. The outer jackets on all of our self-regulating heating cables are the same jackets so they are all UV stable. The bright orange color or even the black jackets can fade slightly with exposure, but it does not change the stability of the jacket.

The heating cable can only replace the heat loss through the insulation. You cannot maintain 15°C without insulation. Use the outside diameter of the double-walled pipe to calculate how much cable you will need for that section.

​​​A timer is not recommended since it might not have the heating cable energized when it is needed. The cable needs to be energized any time there is snow on the roof and the temperature is around freezing or below freezing. If ice is allowed to form around the heating cable, it will not provide enough heat to melt the ice.

​​​Yes, AT-180 aluminum tape is run continuously lengthwise over the heating cable. In addition to holding the heating cable to the pipe until the pipe is insulated, it increases the power output of the heating cable and helps to distribute the heat. A self-regulating heating cable on a plastic pipe does not produce as much heat as the same cable on a metal pipe. This is because the plastic does not transmit the heat away from the heating cable as well as the metal does so the cable starts to self-regulate. Adding the aluminum tape helps to offset some of this.

Adhesive cannot be used to attach metal roof clips to tile or slate roofs. Unfortunately, roof tiles and slate are not as strong as adhesive and therefore when snow slides off the roof, it takes the heating cable, roof clip, adhesive, and the chunk of tile attached to the adhesive with it! A mechanical attachment method, such as the heating cable hanger manufactured by Alpine SnowGuards, must be used on tile and slate roofs.

Any time the cable will be installed in a Class 1 Division 1 location, you must install the Zener Barriers between the TTSIM and the classified area. Zener barriers are not necessary for CID2 areas. Use the TT-ZENER-BARRIER-7767 with all TTSIM-1A and TTSIM-2 applications, and select either the TT-ZENER-BARRIER-7767 or the TT-ZENER-BARRIER-7764 for any TT5000 applications.

The overall length of a RayClic connection kit is 9.95 inches. The height is 1.9 inches. The width for the power connection and splice kits is 2.5 inches and for the tee and cross kit it is 4.2 inches.

​The default value is NC. If a change is required please press "Shift" and then "Enter". Scroll down until you see "Alarm Output" press "Enter" scroll down until you see the desired value and press "Enter"

In both our UL and FM approvals, the cables themselves are not specifically approved/Listed components, but approved for use in a leak detection system. The TTXXXX is generically described, and could represent the various sensing cables (ie. TT1000, TT3000, TT5000, TT5001)that are used for the different applications.

We have not tested TT3000 to see how long it can be exposed to 100% glacial acetic acid before failing due to corrosion. Our guess however based on the materials used to make the cable, is that it is likely able to withstand several hours of exposure before failure. The polymers used to coat the signal wires and sensor wires are fluoropolymers and are resistant to attack by acids. However, since the polymer coating on the sensor wires is conductive, we cannot spark the wire jacket for pinholes. Pinholes could be present. If the acid finds a pinhole, then it will corrode the metal conductor underneath the jacket and cause the cable to fail. TT3000 can be used to detect acids (but it will not differentiate between water or any other conductive liquid). But for the reason above, we recommend that any section of TT3000 exposed to acid be replaced.

You can run the cable the length of the sidewalk as long as you maintain the spacing required and do not exceed the maximum circuit length. Another consideration is expansion joints. If you are installing MI cable, try to avoid them. If this is not possible, follow the instructions below. If you are installing ElectroMelt cable, use the Expansion Joint Kit to cross them.

The password for Level 1 and Level 2 are visible by viewing the Modbus Register Map through a software tool like ModScan. There's no approach to reset the password from the TTDM unit. The customer will need to access register 9 and 10 (Function Code 3) to view and/ or change the password that is currently held in memory. If the customer doesn't have the ability to access unit via Modbus, the customer should send the unit to the factory and we will reset the password to its default values.

You will have to test a cable with the chemical at your facility. We can send you a short length of test cable. You will need to borrow a sensor interface module and leader cable from your local representative. Test instructions can be sent to you by Tech Suport by contacting us at PTM-tech support@nVent.com or by calling us at 650-474-7709. The document number is H80979. We would like to know the test results so we can add them to our TRACETEK Chemical Sensing List.

Check that the image is no greater than 3500x2000 pixels. If this is okay, check the properties of the image file you are trying to upload and make sure that the Read Only AND the Archive Attributes are not checked. The file will give you error messages if both of those settings are checked. If only one of those attributes is checked, then you will not see the error and the file will be copied to the Maps folder on the TS12.

The TT-ZENER-BARRIER-SET (495329) comes with 2 MTL765AC safety barriers mounted inside an enclosure. The TT-ZENER-BARRIER-7767 (P000000553) is a MTL7767+ that is ready to be mounted on a DIN Rail, but does not have an enclosure. The electrical specification differences between the MTL765AC and the MTL7767+ can be found in the datasheets . The main differences are the fuse rating and resistance.

In reality the accuracy is a percentage of the cable length and dependent upon the SIM used. It doesn’t matter what cable is used. The SIM-1 will provide accuracy to +/-0.1% of the overall cable length up to 1500 meters. So at the maximum cable length, the accuracy is +/-1.5 meters. The SIM-1A and SIM-2 will provide accuracy to +/-0.6% of the overall cable length up to 150 meters. So at the maximum cable length, the accuracy is +/-0.9 meters.

This is acting like a sensing cable with shorts to ground. The fact that nothing is visible at 64' implies that this location is the result of two ( or more) ground faults on the Yellow/Black loop. I suggest that they move the end termination to the first 50 foot cable and re-check sense current leakage and location. If no leakage current, connect a temporary wire from the "red" SIM terminal to ground and re-check leakage and location. If a location is displayed for either of the above tests, check for grounded cable. If no leakage or location, connect the next 50 foot section, terminate and repeat the tests above. Continue testing all cable sections until all ground faults are located and removed.

If your customer chooses to use our TT1000 sensor cable at a temperature outside of the datasheet specification, then they do so at their own risk and our warranty would be void. However, you can share the following information to help them make a decision. The polymers used to make the cable are a type of fluoropolymer that melt at around 140C. The mechanical properties such as tensile modulus decease as temperature increases, in other words the material becomes softer with increasing temperature. If the cable is installed with minimal mechanical stresses at the temperature indicated by the customer (82C), it is likely that the cable will function normally. Another factor to consider is the actual temperature that the cable is exposed to. Depending on where the cable is installed within the interstitial area, it may be at a lower temperature than the heated fluid.

The TTSIM-2 has only one relay. The relay can be programmed to change state on a single alarm event or as many as three alarm events as described below. It would take two relays working independently to annunciate separate alarms for a leak and fault alarm. It sounds like you want to display the leak location using the TTSIM-2 so the alternatives for having two relays is the TTDM-128 or networking a TTNRM module to the SIM-2. I have attached data sheets on these units.

We do deliver the end of the MLC with a heat shrink sleeve installed, and then crimped which makes it wider at the end. You could just cut off the portion with the heat shrink tubing so that it fits through the strain relief, and then strip the outer jacket and individual wires as needed. Or, if you have a heat gun, you could score the circumference of the heat shrink tubing a short distance behind the crimped area, and then score it again down the middle along the long axis of the cable, and when they heat up that area with a heat gun the heat shrink tubing in the crimped area should be easy to pull off. This would preserve some of the heat shrink tubing that the strain relief gasket could tighten onto. But if you don’t have the heat gun available or don’t want to go through the hassle, then it is OK to cut that area entirely off as discussed above. We place that heat shrink tubing to prevent water ingress in outdoor applications. But since the TTC-1 is typically installed indoors or covered, it should not be a problem to remove the heat shrink tubing. The TTC-1 itself is not water-tight.

The MJC-BLK outer jacket is Polyurethane, and it’s typical minimum operating temperature is -40C. However, the individual wires underneath the jacket are insulated with polypropylene, and it’s minimum operating temperature is only -10C, because it will start to become brittle. I’m afraid they can’t use it at -41C.

The issue is that the NEC doesn’t say you can put the cables in sand, which often is the medium under the pavers. If the cables are going in concrete, under the pavers, then no problem, the only concern will be the depth, which can cause delays in the getting the surface temp up above 32F quick enough. However, the local AHJ will have to bless the use of cables in another medium, and if in sand or other, the power output of the cables must be limited since the density of the medium is not a compact as concrete and will not dissipate the heat away from the heating cable fast enough and may damage the HDPE jacketing of the MI cable.

It can be done a couple of ways. There is a heater cycle switch for each unit that must be manually actuated at each controller. It runs as long as the cycle time selected. Or, there is also an override option that is controlled by an external relay or switch. It’s typically used for BMS applications. It’s always best to just let it run in automatic mode unless there is a BMS involved.

We do not have any test data at temperatures below -20C, and therefore cannot make any comments about the possible side effects if the cable is exposed to -41C. However, just FYI, here are a few known effects of using TT5001 at subfreezing temperatures: 1) The response time will be slower. As a general rule of thumb, the response will double for every 10C drop below 20C. 2) If the sensor cable is encased in ice due to the sub-freezing condition, then the ice may form a barrier that would block the Toluene from reaching the cable and it will not sense a leak. Once it is thawed, it should work properly. 3) We have heard anecdotally that if the cable was in water and then the water freezes and thereby expands when it turns into ice, then it may press the conductive jacket into the sensor wires and cause a false alarm. It should work properly after it is thawed.

The 2 feet below grade is to protect the pipe from shovels and other gardening implements more than anything else. If you are sure the pipe is not someplace where it might be damaged by anything, then a lesser depth should not be a problem. I know we have done designs where the pipe slopes from grade to some depth below grade in the past.

If the pipe is sloping down at all, then the end seal should be off of the pipe to ensure that no water will travel down into the end seal. This is just a typical electrical practice that we adhere to even though our end seal is rated for occasional submersion. Therefore steps should be made to elevated the end seal off of the pipe. If the pipe was doing a gradual rise, it would not be an issue.

For these calculations, plastic is plastic. The reason we care that it is plastic is because plastic is not a very good conductor of heat and therefore we have to derate the power output of the heating cable to compensate. If you said one part was metal and the rest was plastic, then we might have to make some adjustments. We always use our AT-180 fastening tape on plastic to increase the power output slightly and that is another reason why we need to know if the pipe is plastic; so the correct adhesive tape is selected. But whether the pipe is schedule 40, 80, or some other plastic all together, does not make enough of a difference for it to be a concern.