There was a goddess meets gladiator feel to this season’s Gianfranco Ferre collection which translated into structured, futuristic-looking fashions, heavy on horizontal pleating, leather, gold, and black.

Unlike what Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are doing at Valentino, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi – who took over the reigns at Ferre two years ago – have been able to move the brand forward while staying true to the essence of Ferre’s design aesthetic.

The designers have managed to successfully infuse a younger spirit into the collection by incorporating fur details into the arms and edges of a number of their garments. However, it was the looks that focused on leather that ended up making the strongest statements. Of particular note were fitted blazers, cinched at the waist with hugely over-sized leather belts. A slew of casual tops and loosely draped pants were also shown, and they made for wearable, though somewhat forgettable, day looks.

What Ferre is lacking is a strong point of view when it comes to accessories. It would have been wonderful to see the gold and pleats shown in the collection translated into shoes and handbags – especially since Ferre seems one “it” bag away from being back on the A-list fashion radar.