It’s been 40 years since Elias Hishmeh started a deli in Westover, soon serving up dishes from his native Palestine to appreciative diners. Even as his restaurant changed names and moved to High Street and then to the Morgantown Municipal Airport, Hishmeh’s crowd-satisfying mix of Mediterranean and American cuisines and his genuine, hospitable rounds in the dining room have kept customers coming back for generations.

Ali Baba’s kitchen has done a lot over the years to introduce Morgantown to more international flavors. We can also thank its kitchen for bringing us choclava—that fun and decadent twist on the traditional baklava. Even as we’ve enjoyed an explosion of good Middle Eastern restaurants in town, Ali Baba’s gracious dining room and beautifully plated shish kebab meals know no equal. — PK