Saturday, March 21, 2015

The Evolution of Richmond Row

BY BRYAN LAVERY

When Ann and David Lindsay moved Ann McColl’s
Kitchen Shop to Richmond and Hyman Streets, after five years on Dundas Street
in 1972, it was one of just three small owner-operated specialty shops on
Richmond Row. Of course, there were restaurants like the Toddle Inn, which
opened as a modest establishment with a simple menu and a large,
horseshoe-shaped counter in 1947. Today, The Toddle Inn remains the Row’s
oldest restaurant and most enduring, nearly seventy years later.

In case you think that’s determination,
the iconic CPR Hotel and Tavern, known today by its more familiar name, The Ceeps,
has been operating since 1890. When Ontario went dry in 1916, the business continued
by operating the rooms. In 1927, when Prohibition ended, the taps began flowing
again. Today Colin Tattersall operates three distinct parts to that iconic
business: The Ceeps, Barney’s and the outdoor patio on Richmond Street.

In the
early days, Richmond Street was an eclectic array of Victorian architecture,
ranging in style from Georgian interpretations to modifications of the Italian
school. The emergence of the Richmond Row/Village into a unique area of
specialty merchants, independent services and a tourist-oriented theatre
district came when the Grand Theatre changed from its repertory system in 1984.
By then, people were already comparing the area to Toronto’s Yorkville. Despite
several large office-retail-apartment developments, Richmond Row sustained its
commercial and architectural uniqueness. Diners, shoppers, theatre-goers and university
students continue to enjoy strolling along the Row with its wide sidewalks,
leafy trees, boutiques, shops, bars, cafés and upscale restaurants. Today there
are estimated to be some 275 to 300 businesses in the Richmond Row district.

London City Council unanimously passed
the boundary expansion of Downtown London, effective January 1, 2015,
taking in Richmond Row and the surrounding area all the way to the
north side of Oxford St. and to the Thames River. Janette MacDonald, executive
director of Downtown London, said Richmond Row will keep its “fantastic brand”
and retain its unique identity under the Downtown London umbrella.

Dennis Winkler, (the co-owner/general manager
of Wink’s who has chaired the Richmond Row group until recently), stated “I am
extremely positive about the Richmond Row Merchant Association joining with the
London Downtown Business Association (LBDA). Our association had reached a
point where it had grown to over 60 members and over the past 15 years has been
run by volunteers. By joining the LDBA there will be enough funds generated to
have their paid professional team take Richmond Row into the future. The same
group of volunteers were finding it difficult to find the time to keep the
marketing and event programs expanding to give the members what they deserve.
Plus all the merchants in the area will contribute financially, instead of just
those concerned merchants who paid their $400 per year to keep advertising the
Row. The volunteers over the years have done an excellent job of promoting
Richmond across the city and province but it is time to take it to the next
level.”

Things keep on evolving on the Row. Restaurateur Mike Smith owns a number
of restaurants in the area—The Runt Club, Fellini Koolini’s, The Toboggan
Brewing Company, and the landmark Joe Kool’s. Smith recently installed a
brewery in the basement of his former Jim Bob Ray’s bar and is launching a line
of locally-brewed craft beer. The brew will be made and served at the Toboggan
Brewing Co., the new name for the freshly renovated bar and grill that is next
door to Joe Kool’s, Smith’s flagship restaurant on Richmond Row. Joe Kool’sis a must-see
attraction for tourists visiting downtown London. The following section
highlights some, but certainly not all, of the interesting culinary options
found on Richmond Row.

Chef Scott Wesseling has a modern-day take on international
classics, drawing from local and seasonal ingredients to create his innovative
menu offerings. In season, a prestige spot for al fresco dining is the beautifully appointed and private
Indonesian style garden. This secluded oasis, seating 60, is one of the city's
best kept secrets. 523 Richmond Street (South of Kent Street), 519-850-1500 www.blacktrumpet.ca

Church Key Bistro Pub

Vanessa and Pete Willis’s Church Key is a downtown gastropub
with farm-to-table cuisine and an impressive selection of craft beers. Chef
Michael Anglestad specializes in traditional food prepared with innovation and
finesse. The salad
with duck leg confit on greens, roasted mushrooms, and candied almonds is to
die for. In season, there is a
stunning outdoor courtyard. Stellar Sunday brunch. 476 Richmond Street, (North of Queens Avenue) 519-936-0960 www.thechurchkey.ca

Dragonfly Bistro

Simple, stylish and sophisticated is the best way to
describe the charming Dragonfly Bistro. Donald and Nora Yuriaan have an irresistible
kitchen, a moderately priced menu and welcoming service. We were enthused by
the fragrant heat that bathed the Balinese-inspired Ayam Betutu (chicken breast served with a spicy red chili, tomato
and spice sauce) on the current dinner menu. Other entrees at dinner include
filet of salmon, beef tenderloin peppercorn steak and roasted rack of lamb. If
you are planning to visit for lunch, dinner or the Indonesian set menu which is available every evening, be sure
to make a reservation. 715 Richmond Street, 519-432-2191 www.dragonflybistro.ca

Edo Pehilj’s Garlic’s is the prototype for the ethical
modern Ontario restaurant. The cooking repertoire of chef Chad Steward is
influenced by a strong commitment to supporting local and sustainable food and
agriculture, and has been instrumental in helping to raise the bar for
intelligent and ethical dining in London. 481 Richmond Street, 519-432-4092 www.garlicsoflondon.com

Mythic Grill

Traditional Greek cuisine with a modern flare, served in a quaint
bistro atmosphere. There is seating for 34 inside and another 18 on the popular
patio. Tender lamb chops, sizzling saganaki, and succulent calamari are
signature dishes. The ambience of the Mythic Grill appeals to diners looking
for an intimate dining experience. No reservations on weekends. 179 Albert
Street, 519-433-0230www.mythicgrill.ca

The Talbot St Whisky House is a brand-new 1920's-prohibition-themed bar
and restaurant. The menu is a blend of fine dining and comfort food made from
scratch, fresh daily. The Whisky House showcases a large assortment of whisky
and designer cocktails, as well as offering beer on tap and in bottles, and a
wide variety of red and white wine. 580 Talbot Street, 519-601-2589

The Tasting Room

Lively tapas bars were the inspiration for this popular hotspot. Menus
are a montage of the latest culinary trends and updated classics. Small plates
are the main focus and the list is extensive. Wine tasting flights are divided
into four, 2-ounce glasses of red or white. 383 Richmond Street, 519-438-6262 www.thetastingroom.ca

Willie’s Café

Ian Kennard’s Willie’s Café has been a revered lunch spot
for 19 years. Chef Gail Rains is a dynamo who combines efficient
professionalism with friendly repartee in the small open kitchen. Menu items
include over a dozen different sandwiches and wraps, along with a variety of
soups, salads and other house specialties. Everything is made in-house and from
scratch. Willie’s has built a reputation as a caterer, and fresh healthy fare
can be delivered to your office at an affordable price. Set price, set menu
dinner the last Friday of the month and a good Saturday brunch. 731 Wellington
Street, 519-433-9027 www.williescafe.on.ca

Wink’s Eatery

Co-owned by
Dennis and Adam Winkler, Wink’s is celebrating its 9th year.
Wink’s casual menu has something for everyone ranging from breakfast, to
burgers and nachos, to dinner entrees like steak, baby back ribs, salmon and
pastas. 551 Richmond Street, 519-936-5079 www.winkseatery.com

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Ontario Culinary Tourist

I am a
writer, culinary columnist and food and social media editor in London and
Toronto, Ontario. A chef, former restaurateur and hospitality consultant with
over thirty years in the industry, my work has appeared in a variety of print
and on-line publications. I also freelance written editorial and visual content
for tourism and corporate clients.