I have broken/tacoed Stan's rims and I am old and not very heavy. These rims are rock solid as far as I am concerned. I have ridden them hard and put them up wet with no issues. I just ordered my 3rd set so I am putting my money where my mouth is. I have 4 sets of STans rims in all the models (ARCH, FLOW, CREST) and before these, Stan's were the best. Stan's are still great, but I am liking these better.

If you read this. I am 200lbs, will almost only ride on a paved trail to work. I just bought a new set of 29er Crests, will I break them? I could not pass up the set, new for $349 at an LBS.

I weigh 170 and am 58 and have tacoed a Crest and blew a tire completely off a Crest. That said, I was in the dirt. You can probably ride 100 years and unless you hit a curb hard, you will have no issues.

PS You will love these assuming descent hubs. They actually accelerate faster than the LB wheels since they are lighter. As long as you are not bombing curbs they will be fine and actually ride better. Where the Crests fall down is in steering precision and overall durability/strength. I actually have Flows on my commuter since I do bomb curbs.

My Light Bicycles 29er UD matte finish rims arrived today and from what I can tell (which isnt much) they seem well constructed.

I plan to get these built up in the next few weeks and then can compare them to my Enve wheels.

My question is what is the best tubeless setup to use on these rims? they are the AM tubeless version (BTW)

Evne tape- I think I would need to get the wider version of the gorilla tape. Is this best for these rims?
Stans yellow- Light, do they hold well or are the rims too wide for this light tape to work?
bontrager strips- I believe I would need the Rhythm model of strips. Seem to work well on my RXL rims do they make mounting tires easier or more difficult with the rim profile?

Any feedback or correction would be helpful.

I'm using Stan's yellow tape. No problems at all.

Edit: Eh...sorry for dropping this response in here kind of late...didn't realize the discussion had kind of moved on....duh...

I haven't seen the video but I have been up to 165 (180 indicated) on a ZX11.

Awesome! I had a GSXR-1000 I got up to 186, which is also the speed Suzuki claimed it was governed at. I don't know what the 'actual' speed was, seems like they all read high, especially at high speed.

Yep 12mm brass nipples

I used Sapim double butted spokes and sapim polyax nipples. I usually get my stuff from bikehubstore.com. Brandon is super nice and the parts get here quickly. His prices are much better than anywhere else.

You may want to consider going 2 cross, it makes for a better nipple angle towards the hub. The rim is so thick, and the hole is not drilled at an angle so the nipple can't angle toward the hub very well.

As for spoke triangulation, you can just about throw previous wheel building practices out the window with carbon rims. They are so much stiffer that lighter, fewer spokes and fewer crosses works great and may actually build some flex back into the wheel.

Be prepared for dozens of different answers for that. Just use what you've been always using. Being carbon shouldn't make a diff, assuming other things are equal. If you're planning on going high tension go for something more oily and slicker, espec if using a 3x lacing pattern. Anything works really. Hell, I have a 5 QT jug of motor oil with a little oil left that I'd use--can't wait to hear what the bike purists say about that.

I personally think the locking stuff is for the builds where there isn't very much resistance to nipple turning to tighten it, and therefore less resistance to loosen it. Maybe a "low" tension builds where the spoke enters the nipple in a straight manner, such as in a radial/2x build and/or with rims with angled spoke drilling. Or low spoke count wheels, where each loose spoke would be felt more and you would get more peace of mind with the extra security. With spokes tensioned up to 120kgf, I'd imagine the tension and how the nipples aren't perfectly aligned with the spoke would be more than enough and you'd only need the lubrication for easier build-up as it might get hard to turn once without winding up the spokes at higher tension.

I imagine someone, somewhere would have some good advice on a grease that would be good to use on carbon, but the consensus is, there's no squeeking, digging in, or corrosion between the materials so no lubrication is necessary. Some greases could actually be harmful on the carbon. I haven't seen any wheelsets from other mfg's using any lube on rims or any other carbon part for that matter including headsets, seatposts etc.

I have experienced the nipple getting really tight giving me a false hand tension reading, but i think it has just been the nipple getting side loaded in the deep hole of the rim as i explained in my previous posts.

I've taken a carbon Enve spoke out that was broken and the nipple had some rounding at the base where it contacts the rim, but no significant wear on the rim bed. I'd say less rounding than a typical alloy rim/nipple interface has.

Be prepared for dozens of different answers for that. Just use what you've been always using. Being carbon shouldn't make a diff, assuming other things are equal. If you're planning on going high tension go for something more oily and slicker, espec if using a 3x lacing pattern. Anything works really. Hell, I have a 5 QT jug of motor oil with a little oil left that I'd use--can't wait to hear what the bike purists say about that.