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Topic Review (Newest First)

03-07-2013 02:10 PM

mitmaks

In the end, I'm so glad I have my stud welder, it sure pays for itself first time you use it.

03-07-2013 01:14 PM

69 widetrack

Hey James...I think you posted on the wrong thread...at least I hope so...that would mean that you got the etch primer off...LOL.

Ray

03-07-2013 01:08 PM

James670X

Worked good. Thanks guys!

03-05-2013 05:41 PM

Goldduster360

Quote:

Originally Posted by diggers

Well you big butcher lets see some photos of the finished repair lol!!!!!!

I got the holes welded up and added some plastic. Door is shaping up easier than I thought. Using a foot long two by four with some sandpaper stapled to it. Perfect for this size of job.

01-03-2013 09:05 AM

Goldduster360

End of an era

Yeah, when I was in west palm 15 yrs ago there were scads of 70-81 camaro and 70-76 Duster-Valiant stuff. Used to make me sick how many minty valiants went to the yard. I got all the glass out of a Duster for $40.00. The rustbelt cars always had good door glass because the window felts were not all dried out from the sun to scratch everything. They had the good interior parts too. When WPB enacted the smog checks that sent allot of retiree's cars to the yard who had migrated down here from up North. Good times, but the ride is over.

I have hit several yards in my area in Vero that do not have a single 2nd gen camaro or duster part.

Your 85 Camaro is the 70 Camaro of the now. Enjoy it while it lasts......

12-29-2012 07:29 AM

deadbodyman

Hey GD ,Your right next door in Fla...I used to live in Ocala about 15yrs ago we had some pretty good yards there but the demand was high ,theres a lot of hotrodders down there,You cant hop in your car and go to the store without seeing a few ...I dont know whats up with this town but thers not too many rodders out there.You wouldnt believe the cars I've seen at the yards even the U-pull-it had a 40 merc with a few good parts left,a 66 mustang,the nose was flattend but from the doors back was pretty nice....and all the interior was still there.
heres a pic of the old doorit had some rust that I was going to repair but when I saw all the bondo I scrapped it (red door)
Then a pic of the new one after I stripped it(silver door)
Not too bad for 50.00

12-28-2012 08:09 AM

Goldduster360

Quote:

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

Your on the right track...I was stripping the whole car anyways got the nose done and the door when I decided to scrap the door it takes less that an hour to strip a door but thats the easy part I'm rebuilding the door with new seals window regs& motors,rebuilt hinges etc...
Yours is a whole different type of job,I understand this..taking the door off will open a big can of worms and get expensive so you just want to fix the damage and only the damage...two completely different jobs...
That said, I dont just go wandering around the yards looking for a part ,I get online find the part and how many there are so I can pick and choose..Once I found the best door it took less than 15 min to pull it ,its a complete door so if I wanted too I could just replace it as a unit and just change out the lock cylinder Once I left the shop I was back within two hrs and had lunch too.
so far I have two hrs getting it ...100.00
the door itself.............................50.00
1 1/2 hrs stripping the outside and rebuilding the hinges...75.00
today I'll spend a few min and spray the epoxy primer on the outer shell and tomorrow 1 1/2 hr fixing 1/2 a dozen dime size dings but lets call it another 4hrs or 200.00 altogether thats 425 for a freash door ready to paintmost of that is all preppeing that I'd have to do anywayactual body work is only 1 1/2 hrsSo in my case its the way to go being my labor is expensiveIf your not counting labor its ok to spend two days doing body work only its just 10-30.00 for a can of bondo.
But to tell the truth ,if I was doing that job I would'nt bother welding up the holes,I'd just stuff it too...Theres the right way for every job and thats the right way for that particular job...mostly I was just showing there are good doors out thereand they are prtty cheap I found two less than 5 mile away ....and dont buy stuff from Ebay and amitures get your parts from yards that know how to grade the quality of the part so you donet waste time and money buying junk....Location DOES have a lot to do with the selection and quality of parts.... a good salvage yard will ship all over the country....

I completely agree.

12-28-2012 06:43 AM

deadbodyman

Your on the right track...I was stripping the whole car anyways got the nose done and the door when I decided to scrap the door it takes less that an hour to strip a door but thats the easy part I'm rebuilding the door with new seals window regs& motors,rebuilt hinges etc...
Yours is a whole different type of job,I understand this..taking the door off will open a big can of worms and get expensive so you just want to fix the damage and only the damage...two completely different jobs...
That said, I dont just go wandering around the yards looking for a part ,I get online find the part and how many there are so I can pick and choose..Once I found the best door it took less than 15 min to pull it ,its a complete door so if I wanted too I could just replace it as a unit and just change out the lock cylinder Once I left the shop I was back within two hrs and had lunch too.
so far I have two hrs getting it ...100.00
the door itself.............................50.00
1 1/2 hrs stripping the outside and rebuilding the hinges...75.00
today I'll spend a few min and spray the epoxy primer on the outer shell and tomorrow 1 1/2 hr fixing 1/2 a dozen dime size dings but lets call it another 4hrs or 200.00 altogether thats 425 for a freash door ready to paintmost of that is all preppeing that I'd have to do anywayactual body work is only 1 1/2 hrsSo in my case its the way to go being my labor is expensiveIf your not counting labor its ok to spend two days doing body work only its just 10-30.00 for a can of bondo.
But to tell the truth ,if I was doing that job I would'nt bother welding up the holes,I'd just stuff it too...Theres the right way for every job and thats the right way for that particular job...mostly I was just showing there are good doors out thereand they are prtty cheap I found two less than 5 mile away ....and dont buy stuff from Ebay and amitures get your parts from yards that know how to grade the quality of the part so you donet waste time and money buying junk....Location DOES have a lot to do with the selection and quality of parts.... a good salvage yard will ship all over the country....

12-27-2012 07:22 AM

Goldduster360

Quote:

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

I'm building an 85 camaro(Iroc) my drivers door had about a 1/3 of the damage yours does and full of those holes too...so off to pull-a-part I went, there was ten to choose from I found a real nice drivers door undamaged with O rust...48.00..
I found a real nice pass door while there
I suspect my pass door is in the same shape so I'll take the grinder to it to be sure but for 50.00 I cant even weld up the holes that cheap,never mind all that filler work and in the end I'll have a filler free set of doors with very little time in them...
Skinning it would be my next choice, it sould only take 1-2 hours to skin that bad boy and not only would it be cheaper in the end it'll be filler free.

There are those that love doing filler work though,I'm just not one of them.Its dirty and time consuming ,that door would take me a min of 10 hrs to get ready for paint,at my shop thats 500.00 for a door full of bondo..a skin would be 2-300.00...a good used door 150.00 but you have to look them over real good...

There are no $50.00 Camaro doors in my area, I don't remember $50.00 doors ever now that I think of it. Guess it depends on locale. If you count the time it takes to go to the salvage yard, scout the door and then remove it, plus you have to remove door off of "good" car to replace it and then get everything to line up with replacement door plus you usually have to strip the paint off old door to prep for paint and transfer the insides of your old door and glass, reinstall interior door panel. That takes less time than popping out a 1/2" depression and filling it? That was never the case when I did it for a living. Plus 35yr old door gaskets don't transfer over very well and the one on the donner door ain't gonna seal either. I can weld allot of holes for less than $50.00, it would cost a DIY jobber much more to change out that door, just saying........

12-27-2012 06:52 AM

deadbodyman

I'm building an 85 camaro(Iroc) my drivers door had about a 1/3 of the damage yours does and full of those holes too...so off to pull-a-part I went, there was ten to choose from I found a real nice drivers door undamaged with O rust...48.00..
I found a real nice pass door while there
I suspect my pass door is in the same shape so I'll take the grinder to it to be sure but for 50.00 I cant even weld up the holes that cheap,never mind all that filler work and in the end I'll have a filler free set of doors with very little time in them...
Skinning it would be my next choice, it sould only take 1-2 hours to skin that bad boy and not only would it be cheaper in the end it'll be filler free.

There are those that love doing filler work though,I'm just not one of them.Its dirty and time consuming ,that door would take me a min of 10 hrs to get ready for paint,at my shop thats 500.00 for a door full of bondo..a skin would be 2-300.00...a good used door 150.00 but you have to look them over real good...

12-26-2012 01:03 PM

Goldduster360

Quote:

Originally Posted by diggers

Well you big butcher lets see some photos of the finished repair lol!!!!!!

Jeez, you old ladies are relentless!! You guys shamed me in to welding up the holes. Welded up 30 so far, only 30 left to go. What a PITA! I still think this is less work than re-skinning the door, and no doubt Cheap Charlie would approve!

I will post pics to show progress when I can. Happy Holidays!!!!

12-21-2012 11:37 PM

tech69

don't get me wrong, I get the volcanoes too but on most repairs of that era I see no clear direction as to where to put the holes. They're usually all in a straight line, as if the guy said, "this is the lowest spot I'm pulling here!", and because they didn't put the holes where they needed to be to roll it out, or perhaps didn't hammer down highs while yanking they create huge volcanoes. Seeing this is just a head ache to fix. I'm sure I wouldn't have done any different...I probably would have mudded over them to top it off.

Thought it was worth mentioning because the severity of that could be a determining factor on whether or not to skin. I did my mustang and it had holes all accross the door and as I was half done I wanted to just toss it but also didn't want to throw away all that work. I got to keep my original sheet metal allright...some odd hours later.

12-21-2012 11:09 PM

MARTINSR

Quote:

Originally Posted by tech69

thing that sucks about the hole era is a lot of guys just used the screw slide hammers and made teepees out of the hole and stretching the metal in those areas and thinning it. Instead of rolling the metal out they just yanked hard and if you don't roll it out right you get teepees. If you know what you're doing the teepee effect won't be an issue.

I was a master slide hammer dent puller. or should that be
One of the worse things we did was drill the holes, the teepee or as we called them volcanos were a sure thing with a drilled hole. But if it is punched with an awl the volcano is going IN so when you pull it out you end up with something much flatter.

I can't believe that I just did a "Basics" on a slide hammer dent puller.

Brian

12-21-2012 09:48 PM

diggers

Well you big butcher lets see some photos of the finished repair lol!!!!!!

12-15-2012 08:18 PM

tech69

thing that sucks about the hole era is a lot of guys just used the screw slide hammers and made teepees out of the hole and stretching the metal in those areas and thinning it. Instead of rolling the metal out they just yanked hard and if you don't roll it out right you get teepees. If you know what you're doing the teepee effect won't be an issue.

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