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Here are 3 new metro Phoenix restaurants to add to your June must-try list

Hanna Gabrielsson's Swedish meatballs are back. Beaver Choice is now BeCe Kitchen, and her revamped Polish/Swedish fast casual joint is turning out homey meals for $10. These meaty little fellas are exactly what you're hoping for — tender, well-seasoned and swimming in a rich and creamy gravy. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Hanna Gabrielsson's Swedish meatballs are back. Beaver Choice is now BeCe Kitchen, and her revamped Polish/Swedish fast casual joint is turning out homey meals for $10. These meaty little fellas are exactly what you're hoping for — tender, well-seasoned and swimming in a rich and creamy gravy.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Xiao long bao are one of those things that make food geeks completely lose their composure, and the specimens at Happy Bao's are mighty fine. I'm in the camp that prefers a richer broth, but the construction on these is really quite good. Thin skin, gorgeous sag, a little jiggle when you poke 'em, and they burst with a wave of soup when you bite them open. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Xiao long bao are one of those things that make food geeks completely lose their composure, and the specimens at Happy Bao's are mighty fine. I'm in the camp that prefers a richer broth, but the construction on these is really quite good. Thin skin, gorgeous sag, a little jiggle when you poke 'em, and they burst with a wave of soup when you bite them open.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

This is the antidote to the Phoenix summer, and really needs to catch on in this town. Liang pi is a chilled mix of noodles and spongy wheat gluten doused in a spicy peanut dressing and tossed with all kinds of crispy crunchy bits like peanuts, sesame, scallions and bean sprouts. The dish isn't Happy Bao's namesake, but it shouldn't be overlooked. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

This is the antidote to the Phoenix summer, and really needs to catch on in this town. Liang pi is a chilled mix of noodles and spongy wheat gluten doused in a spicy peanut dressing and tossed with all kinds of crispy crunchy bits like peanuts, sesame, scallions and bean sprouts. The dish isn't Happy Bao's namesake, but it shouldn't be overlooked.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Hush Public House excels at pretty much everything they do, but this is a dish that I especially enjoyed. Tender, chilled shrimp are lightly pickled and served with crisp planks of fried green tomato with an eggy gribiche. And though it's a stupid little detail, I love that the celery on top is basically naked. Celery is so underrated. Celery has character, too! And it's a player in this dish just as much as the sexier ingredients. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Hush Public House excels at pretty much everything they do, but this is a dish that I especially enjoyed. Tender, chilled shrimp are lightly pickled and served with crisp planks of fried green tomato with an eggy gribiche. And though it's a stupid little detail, I love that the celery on top is basically naked. Celery is so underrated. Celery has character, too! And it's a player in this dish just as much as the sexier ingredients.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

This chicken from Hush Public House is ridiculous. Not because it's the most interesting or the best dish on the menu. But because they've elevated every boring as sin chicken dish and made it something special. A plank of crispy, salty skin atop a boned-out half chicken, sitting on a pile of spinach and mushrooms that just melt into a buttery, Madeira-laced jus. Normally, if I'm eating on my own time, I skip the chicken. Not here. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

This chicken from Hush Public House is ridiculous. Not because it's the most interesting or the best dish on the menu. But because they've elevated every boring as sin chicken dish and made it something special. A plank of crispy, salty skin atop a boned-out half chicken, sitting on a pile of spinach and mushrooms that just melt into a buttery, Madeira-laced jus. Normally, if I'm eating on my own time, I skip the chicken. Not here.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Fellow Osteria needs to find its consistency, but man, there is nothing wrong with the calamari fritti. Rather than the ol' rings and tentacles, they cut thick batons from calamari steaks, then fry them in a batter that looks heavy and substantial, but play surprisingly light with a killer crunch. You don't need the romesco. A little squirt of grilled lemon is all that's called for. But it certainly doesn't hurt. Cheryl Evans/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Fellow Osteria needs to find its consistency, but man, there is nothing wrong with the calamari fritti. Rather than the ol' rings and tentacles, they cut thick batons from calamari steaks, then fry them in a batter that looks heavy and substantial, but play surprisingly light with a killer crunch. You don't need the romesco. A little squirt of grilled lemon is all that's called for. But it certainly doesn't hurt.
Cheryl Evans/The Republic

The pizzas at Fellow Osteria are a sturdy, flavorful breed, and I found myself rather enjoying a summer special that includes charred corn, little dollops of a house-made ricotta and the sharp sting of Calabrian chiles. Cheryl Evans/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

The pizzas at Fellow Osteria are a sturdy, flavorful breed, and I found myself rather enjoying a summer special that includes charred corn, little dollops of a house-made ricotta and the sharp sting of Calabrian chiles.
Cheryl Evans/The Republic

Little Miss BBQ still reigns supreme where smoked brisket is concerned, but I'll tell you what — some others are closing the gap. Check out the brisket at Caldwell County BBQ, slick and tender and possessed of a bark with some serious bite. It's incredible to see how the local barbecue scene has completely transformed over the past few years, and places like this are leading the charge. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Little Miss BBQ still reigns supreme where smoked brisket is concerned, but I'll tell you what — some others are closing the gap. Check out the brisket at Caldwell County BBQ, slick and tender and possessed of a bark with some serious bite. It's incredible to see how the local barbecue scene has completely transformed over the past few years, and places like this are leading the charge.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Gads, I just never get sick of Hue Gourmet. How is a place this good that's been around for nearly a decade still kind of flying under the radar for most people? Don't get me wrong, the southern Vietnamese pho/bun/com trinity is wonderful, but where else in town can you get something like mi quang? Turmeric-scented noodles tossed in a meaty sauce with a wild jumble of ingredients like shrimp, quail eggs, shredded banana blossom, peanuts and crispy sesame crackers. It's a treat to be able to enjoy the dishes of central Vietnam at all, and lucky for us that Hue Gourmet prepares them as well as they do. Mark Henle, Mark Henle/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Gads, I just never get sick of Hue Gourmet. How is a place this good that's been around for nearly a decade still kind of flying under the radar for most people? Don't get me wrong, the southern Vietnamese pho/bun/com trinity is wonderful, but where else in town can you get something like mi quang? Turmeric-scented noodles tossed in a meaty sauce with a wild jumble of ingredients like shrimp, quail eggs, shredded banana blossom, peanuts and crispy sesame crackers. It's a treat to be able to enjoy the dishes of central Vietnam at all, and lucky for us that Hue Gourmet prepares them as well as they do.
Mark Henle, Mark Henle/The Republic

Here's an example of a dish that you just won't find at any other Vietnamese restaurant in town. Hue Gourmet's banh loc la are little dumplings that take on an almost floral scent from the banana leaves in which they're steamed. But the texture is the thing that will stand out to those unfamiliar with them. They're made with tapioca starch, so they have an intense chew, and when you get to the center you're rewarded with a bit of seasoned ground pork and the light crunch of a tiny shell-on shrimp. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Here's an example of a dish that you just won't find at any other Vietnamese restaurant in town. Hue Gourmet's banh loc la are little dumplings that take on an almost floral scent from the banana leaves in which they're steamed. But the texture is the thing that will stand out to those unfamiliar with them. They're made with tapioca starch, so they have an intense chew, and when you get to the center you're rewarded with a bit of seasoned ground pork and the light crunch of a tiny shell-on shrimp.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

No, this is not how Nashville Hot Chicken is traditionally served. But I'm not mad at it. Monroe's Hot Chicken was one of my critic's picks for our hot chicken list, and the reason is what's within. The chicken at the heart of this glorious mess of a sandwich is stupid good — fried tenders in a chile-laden oil that is both flavorful and absolutely face-melting if you choose the hottest version. Even with eggy brioche and a creamy, sweet slaw to blunt the heat, getting through it is a challenge. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

No, this is not how Nashville Hot Chicken is traditionally served. But I'm not mad at it. Monroe's Hot Chicken was one of my critic's picks for our hot chicken list, and the reason is what's within. The chicken at the heart of this glorious mess of a sandwich is stupid good — fried tenders in a chile-laden oil that is both flavorful and absolutely face-melting if you choose the hottest version. Even with eggy brioche and a creamy, sweet slaw to blunt the heat, getting through it is a challenge.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

I mean, come on. Just look at the deep, ruddy complexion of that mole Poblano. El Rincon Poblano serves up a simple menu of Pueblan homestyle dishes, and this is one of the best. It's a smooth and mellow variety, rich and deep and incredibly complex but more comforting than aggressive. There's a lot going on, and you could try to deconstruct it, or you could just relax and enjoy it. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

I mean, come on. Just look at the deep, ruddy complexion of that mole Poblano. El Rincon Poblano serves up a simple menu of Pueblan homestyle dishes, and this is one of the best. It's a smooth and mellow variety, rich and deep and incredibly complex but more comforting than aggressive. There's a lot going on, and you could try to deconstruct it, or you could just relax and enjoy it.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

As torta subsets go, 'cemitas' is one of the best. This Pueblan sandwich is a specialty of El Rincon Poblano, where they bake the signature sesame-studded rolls in house and pickle their own chipotle chiles. The meat's your choice — I'm partial to the crispy milanesa — then after a bit of avocado, sliced onion and wispy strings of Oaxaca cheese, the secret ingredient is the papalo — a distinctively peppery, cilantro-like herb that gives the cemita a brisk kick and makes the dish. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

As torta subsets go, 'cemitas' is one of the best. This Pueblan sandwich is a specialty of El Rincon Poblano, where they bake the signature sesame-studded rolls in house and pickle their own chipotle chiles. The meat's your choice — I'm partial to the crispy milanesa — then after a bit of avocado, sliced onion and wispy strings of Oaxaca cheese, the secret ingredient is the papalo — a distinctively peppery, cilantro-like herb that gives the cemita a brisk kick and makes the dish.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The Hoppin' John at The Larder + The Delta is one heck of a killer dish. This is no black eyed peas and mushy rice. Chef Stephen Jones goes back to the dish's roots, using Carolina Gold rice and Sea Island red peas, then reinvents the dish by omitting the pork and turning it into a plateful of crispy, Southern-style socarrat. The textures will light you up, but the heart of the dish is the mellow, earthy flavors of the peas and rice. Tom Tingle/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

The Hoppin' John at The Larder + The Delta is one heck of a killer dish. This is no black eyed peas and mushy rice. Chef Stephen Jones goes back to the dish's roots, using Carolina Gold rice and Sea Island red peas, then reinvents the dish by omitting the pork and turning it into a plateful of crispy, Southern-style socarrat. The textures will light you up, but the heart of the dish is the mellow, earthy flavors of the peas and rice.
Tom Tingle/The Republic

Chongqing chicken is a dish that's quickly becoming a menu standard here in Phoenix, and really, I'm okay with that. Crispy dry-fried bits of chicken blazing with the one-two punch of fiery chiles and numbing Sichuan pepper is always good, but the version at Old Town Taste straight-up crackles. These fellas are deftly done — sizzling on the outside, still juicy on the inside. And the addition of a little greenery is a welcome bonus. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Chongqing chicken is a dish that's quickly becoming a menu standard here in Phoenix, and really, I'm okay with that. Crispy dry-fried bits of chicken blazing with the one-two punch of fiery chiles and numbing Sichuan pepper is always good, but the version at Old Town Taste straight-up crackles. These fellas are deftly done — sizzling on the outside, still juicy on the inside. And the addition of a little greenery is a welcome bonus.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Anybody who tells you China doesn't actually do sweet-sour is wrong. They don't serve the gloopy sugar bombs you'll find at your local Canto-American takeout joint, but the squirrel-shaped fish at Old Town Taste — a Jiangsu classic — is a seriously intense balance of tomato, sugar and vinegar. But no squirrels were harmed in the making of this dish. "Squirrel-shaped" refers to the cross-hatch cuts made to the fish before it's deep fried. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Anybody who tells you China doesn't actually do sweet-sour is wrong. They don't serve the gloopy sugar bombs you'll find at your local Canto-American takeout joint, but the squirrel-shaped fish at Old Town Taste — a Jiangsu classic — is a seriously intense balance of tomato, sugar and vinegar. But no squirrels were harmed in the making of this dish. "Squirrel-shaped" refers to the cross-hatch cuts made to the fish before it's deep fried.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Birria is The Thing at La Marquesa, and rightfully so, but it would really be a mistake to overlook the restaurant’s other Jaliscan-style meats. The chamorro de puerco has some serious carnivorous charm — a pork shank roasted in their wood-fired oven to a deep, dark lacquered exterior with tender meat inside that still has some bite. Which is fine and good, but then it's swimming in this thick puddle of adobo sauce — bright red, humming with chile heat and a healthy splash of vinegar. Great stuff. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Birria is The Thing at La Marquesa, and rightfully so, but it would really be a mistake to overlook the restaurant’s other Jaliscan-style meats. The chamorro de puerco has some serious carnivorous charm — a pork shank roasted in their wood-fired oven to a deep, dark lacquered exterior with tender meat inside that still has some bite. Which is fine and good, but then it's swimming in this thick puddle of adobo sauce — bright red, humming with chile heat and a healthy splash of vinegar. Great stuff.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

As a matter of personal preference, I prefer La Marquesa’s birria de chivo in a dish with an ocean of ruddy, rich consommé. But this is a close second. Nestled into tortillas with a little onion, cilantro and a shot of bright salsa, it makes for some fine tacos as well. Bonus: you can choose your cut. Goat skirt, anybody? Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

As a matter of personal preference, I prefer La Marquesa’s birria de chivo in a dish with an ocean of ruddy, rich consommé. But this is a close second. Nestled into tortillas with a little onion, cilantro and a shot of bright salsa, it makes for some fine tacos as well. Bonus: you can choose your cut. Goat skirt, anybody?
Dominic Armato/The Republic

We have plenty snooty, high brow wood-fired pizza, and it is wonderful and excellent and has earned its reputation as one of the cornerstones of the Valley's dining scene. Detroit-style pizza, on the other hand, isn't the most sophisticated pizza — kinda low brow, even — but you cannot look at this and tell me that's a negative. The Rec’s Detroit-style pizza is just good. And the crust is the reason. Brick cheese melts into the sides of the pan as the bread bakes, making a dark, crispy, chewy crust that contrasts with the pizza’s soft, spongy interior. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

We have plenty snooty, high brow wood-fired pizza, and it is wonderful and excellent and has earned its reputation as one of the cornerstones of the Valley's dining scene. Detroit-style pizza, on the other hand, isn't the most sophisticated pizza — kinda low brow, even — but you cannot look at this and tell me that's a negative. The Rec’s Detroit-style pizza is just good. And the crust is the reason. Brick cheese melts into the sides of the pan as the bread bakes, making a dark, crispy, chewy crust that contrasts with the pizza’s soft, spongy interior.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Phoenix, you have embraced pho as a mainstream comfort food and I love you for it. But there are, like, seven or eight other pages to the menu. There is so much more to try at your local Vietnamese joint. To name just one, com tam — broken rice — anchors plates that can be covered with a wild variety of items including grilled pork, fried tofu skin filled with shrimp paste, pork and crab meatloaf or fried eggs. It's a great way to sample a bunch of different things at once to see what you like. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Phoenix, you have embraced pho as a mainstream comfort food and I love you for it. But there are, like, seven or eight other pages to the menu. There is so much more to try at your local Vietnamese joint. To name just one, com tam — broken rice — anchors plates that can be covered with a wild variety of items including grilled pork, fried tofu skin filled with shrimp paste, pork and crab meatloaf or fried eggs. It's a great way to sample a bunch of different things at once to see what you like.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Ghost Ranch calls their food modern Southwestern, and I'm still trying to decide where I think this is a bold new take on old-school Southwestern cuisine or Aaron Chamberlin's light, fresh, vegetable-forward fare spiced up with a bunch of Mexican and Southwestern ingredients and techniques. But whatever you call it, some of these dishes are really fascinating. Here, you've got chiles rellenos — steamed rather than fried — stuffed with mushroom duxelles, set atop a tart goat cheese sauce with a splash of pureed chimayo chile and a crispy leek nest. It’s far lighter than the typical deep-fried style, and it might even be more flavorful. Rob Schumacher/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Ghost Ranch calls their food modern Southwestern, and I'm still trying to decide where I think this is a bold new take on old-school Southwestern cuisine or Aaron Chamberlin's light, fresh, vegetable-forward fare spiced up with a bunch of Mexican and Southwestern ingredients and techniques. But whatever you call it, some of these dishes are really fascinating. Here, you've got chiles rellenos — steamed rather than fried — stuffed with mushroom duxelles, set atop a tart goat cheese sauce with a splash of pureed chimayo chile and a crispy leek nest. It’s far lighter than the typical deep-fried style, and it might even be more flavorful.
Rob Schumacher/The Republic

It's hard to believe this started out as a seafood dish, but at Bri in Phoenix, Vince Mellody's lychee 'scallops' are vegetarian, and they're practically explosive. The lychees are brined and seared, giving them kind of a meaty kick while maintaining their sweet, fruity nature. And the sauce isn't a curry, exactly, but it kind of plays like one. Or at least how curry might be made at a juice bar. He juices fresh carrots, ginger and turmeric and spikes the whole thing with some searing chile oil and a ton of black pepper. It's refreshing, sweet, hot and intense all at the same time. Michael Chow/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

It's hard to believe this started out as a seafood dish, but at Bri in Phoenix, Vince Mellody's lychee 'scallops' are vegetarian, and they're practically explosive. The lychees are brined and seared, giving them kind of a meaty kick while maintaining their sweet, fruity nature. And the sauce isn't a curry, exactly, but it kind of plays like one. Or at least how curry might be made at a juice bar. He juices fresh carrots, ginger and turmeric and spikes the whole thing with some searing chile oil and a ton of black pepper. It's refreshing, sweet, hot and intense all at the same time.
Michael Chow/The Republic

Mrs. White's family tree has some solid roots and more branches than you think. Larry White isn't the only member of the family who slings some mighty fine fried chicken. Christian Buze recently found a new home for The Root & Soul in Scottsdale, and this stuff hums. It's crisp, it's juicy and there's a healthy shot of Cajun spice that'll keep your lips humming. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Mrs. White's family tree has some solid roots and more branches than you think. Larry White isn't the only member of the family who slings some mighty fine fried chicken. Christian Buze recently found a new home for The Root & Soul in Scottsdale, and this stuff hums. It's crisp, it's juicy and there's a healthy shot of Cajun spice that'll keep your lips humming.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Look, unless you're just dying for an argument, don't try to tell anybody in Tampa or Miami that this is a Cubano. But the Cubano at Sweet Land Cake is a great sandwich. It’s tough to find fault with this meaty combination of roasted pork, ham and cheddar cheese pressed between lightly pan sobao — a gently sweetened Puerto Rican bread thats light and fluffy with just a little crisp crust. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Look, unless you're just dying for an argument, don't try to tell anybody in Tampa or Miami that this is a Cubano. But the Cubano at Sweet Land Cake is a great sandwich. It’s tough to find fault with this meaty combination of roasted pork, ham and cheddar cheese pressed between lightly pan sobao — a gently sweetened Puerto Rican bread thats light and fluffy with just a little crisp crust.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Ivan Jacobo's Hidden Kitchen isn't so hidden anymore, which might be why he renamed it Anhelo Restaurant. But whatever you call the place, it serves a very nice roasted branzino, doused with a swig of white wine, tomatoes, capers and a hefty dose of garlic. More head-on whole fish, please. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Ivan Jacobo's Hidden Kitchen isn't so hidden anymore, which might be why he renamed it Anhelo Restaurant. But whatever you call the place, it serves a very nice roasted branzino, doused with a swig of white wine, tomatoes, capers and a hefty dose of garlic. More head-on whole fish, please.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The thing about the cha kreung at Reathrey Sekong, apart from the fact that it's a killer dish, is that everything about it is so distinct. The chiles, the shallots, the makrut lime leaf, the ginger, the galangal, the lemongrass — you can taste every single component of that seasoning paste, unlike the muddy mess you get as so many Southeast Asian restaurants. Michael Chow/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

The thing about the cha kreung at Reathrey Sekong, apart from the fact that it's a killer dish, is that everything about it is so distinct. The chiles, the shallots, the makrut lime leaf, the ginger, the galangal, the lemongrass — you can taste every single component of that seasoning paste, unlike the muddy mess you get as so many Southeast Asian restaurants.
Michael Chow/The Republic

Cantonese is generally more Michael Leung's speed, but he's trying his hand with the cuisines of northwestern China at Xian Fusing Cafe. Some dishes hit, some miss, but this one's a big winner — a spicy sour cabbage soup screaming with pepper, pungent herbs and chiles, anchored with tender stewed swai filets. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Cantonese is generally more Michael Leung's speed, but he's trying his hand with the cuisines of northwestern China at Xian Fusing Cafe. Some dishes hit, some miss, but this one's a big winner — a spicy sour cabbage soup screaming with pepper, pungent herbs and chiles, anchored with tender stewed swai filets.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

I mean, yeah, it's great that Burger King is adopting the 'Impossible Burger,' but can't that stuff be put to more interesting use? Short answer: yes. Case in point, the 'impossible albondigas' at Casa Terra in Glendale. A trio of spicy meatballs with a little dollop of cooling cashew ricotta, set in creamy polenta with bright herb oils. This does not suffer for the lack of meat. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

I mean, yeah, it's great that Burger King is adopting the 'Impossible Burger,' but can't that stuff be put to more interesting use? Short answer: yes. Case in point, the 'impossible albondigas' at Casa Terra in Glendale. A trio of spicy meatballs with a little dollop of cooling cashew ricotta, set in creamy polenta with bright herb oils. This does not suffer for the lack of meat.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The texture of the risotto at Casa Terra will throw off some traditionalists, but that doesn't mean it isn't tasty, studded with vegan chorizo and mushrooms, scented with saffron and herb oil. I could do without the gold leaf, but I'll eat this again in a heartbeat. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

The texture of the risotto at Casa Terra will throw off some traditionalists, but that doesn't mean it isn't tasty, studded with vegan chorizo and mushrooms, scented with saffron and herb oil. I could do without the gold leaf, but I'll eat this again in a heartbeat.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Part of what makes Casa Terra great is how the restaurant finds ways to deploy umami and smoke to give vegan dishes some meaty heft. Here, you've got smoked mushrooms on top of herb-heavy green rice, roasted in a cazuela with a punchy mole amarillo. Great stuff. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Part of what makes Casa Terra great is how the restaurant finds ways to deploy umami and smoke to give vegan dishes some meaty heft. Here, you've got smoked mushrooms on top of herb-heavy green rice, roasted in a cazuela with a punchy mole amarillo. Great stuff.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

At a Chicago beef stand, “combo” probably doesn’t mean what you think. It's the marriage of an Italian beef sandwich with an Italian sausage sandwich, and if you think that sounds like gluttonous insanity, well... you're not wrong. But it works, big time. Luke’s has been on fire lately, slinging an excellent combo with a spicy, charred sausage and tender, juicy beef. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

At a Chicago beef stand, “combo” probably doesn’t mean what you think. It's the marriage of an Italian beef sandwich with an Italian sausage sandwich, and if you think that sounds like gluttonous insanity, well... you're not wrong. But it works, big time. Luke’s has been on fire lately, slinging an excellent combo with a spicy, charred sausage and tender, juicy beef.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

As you can plainly see, District American Kitchen’s corn and honey panna cotta with spiced walnuts and lemon butter sponge cake won the bee vote in a landslide at Devour 2019. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

As you can plainly see, District American Kitchen’s corn and honey panna cotta with spiced walnuts and lemon butter sponge cake won the bee vote in a landslide at Devour 2019.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Tamara Stanger of Cotton & Copper has this way of turning indigenous ingredients into some mindbending concoctions, and she brought her A game to the VIP room at Devour 2019. She threw out a slew of great dishes, including her ‘Deviled Bone’ — cornmeal-crusted chicken with walnut catsup butter and salbitxada, all crisp and nutty with a vinegary kick. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Tamara Stanger of Cotton & Copper has this way of turning indigenous ingredients into some mindbending concoctions, and she brought her A game to the VIP room at Devour 2019. She threw out a slew of great dishes, including her ‘Deviled Bone’ — cornmeal-crusted chicken with walnut catsup butter and salbitxada, all crisp and nutty with a vinegary kick.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

At Singh Meadows, Sacha Levine is all about vegetables. Like, insanely delicious, bright, fresh, colorful, eye-popping vegetables. Honestly, half the time when the dish lands in front of you, it feels like you're about to eat a fairy farm. (Meaning it's tended by fairy farmers, not that fairies are the cro— nevermind.) But a few tasty meat dishes sneak into the menu as well. Here, juicy patties of masala-spiced pork sausage join a sunny egg, crispy onions and a pungent apple chutney made with turmeric juice from the juice bar. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

At Singh Meadows, Sacha Levine is all about vegetables. Like, insanely delicious, bright, fresh, colorful, eye-popping vegetables. Honestly, half the time when the dish lands in front of you, it feels like you're about to eat a fairy farm. (Meaning it's tended by fairy farmers, not that fairies are the cro— nevermind.) But a few tasty meat dishes sneak into the menu as well. Here, juicy patties of masala-spiced pork sausage join a sunny egg, crispy onions and a pungent apple chutney made with turmeric juice from the juice bar.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Hush Public House is turning out some sharply executed dishes, and I am more than a little annoyed that I don't have better photos of some of them. Thankfully the halibut crudo is both gorgeous and delicious — thick slabs of fresh fish plied with citrus, pickled chiles and marinated fennel. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Hush Public House is turning out some sharply executed dishes, and I am more than a little annoyed that I don't have better photos of some of them. Thankfully the halibut crudo is both gorgeous and delicious — thick slabs of fresh fish plied with citrus, pickled chiles and marinated fennel.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

There are oysters on the half shell. Then there are grilled oysters on the half shell. And then there are Chula Seafood Uptown’s grilled oysters on the half shell, swimming in smoky and spicy chipotle butter alongside charred Noble bread. Really, the only problem here is that I could eat about seven orders of these. Somebody please cut me off at two. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

There are oysters on the half shell. Then there are grilled oysters on the half shell. And then there are Chula Seafood Uptown’s grilled oysters on the half shell, swimming in smoky and spicy chipotle butter alongside charred Noble bread. Really, the only problem here is that I could eat about seven orders of these. Somebody please cut me off at two.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The cuisine of the Bukharian Jews is just fascinating. An insular community that's made its home for centuries along the silk road in modern-day Kazakhstan, their food is influenced by Russia, Eastern Europe, Arab cuisine, African spices, Korean vegetables... you name it. Which means that Cafe Chenar offers soups like lagman — a warm, meat and vegetable-filled broth reminiscent of Russian cuisine with Chinese-style noodles lurking just below the surface, the comfort food of two wildly different cuisines fused into one bowl. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

The cuisine of the Bukharian Jews is just fascinating. An insular community that's made its home for centuries along the silk road in modern-day Kazakhstan, their food is influenced by Russia, Eastern Europe, Arab cuisine, African spices, Korean vegetables... you name it. Which means that Cafe Chenar offers soups like lagman — a warm, meat and vegetable-filled broth reminiscent of Russian cuisine with Chinese-style noodles lurking just below the surface, the comfort food of two wildly different cuisines fused into one bowl.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Is Italy listening? No? Good. Don't tell them, but at Tratto, chef Cassie Shortino adds butter to her cacio e pepe. That is... not traditional. It is also stupid good. Made simply with parmesan, pecorino, cracked pepper and a splash of pasta water, this rich and creamy take on the Roman classic is based on some killer fresh pasta. Cheryl Evans/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Is Italy listening? No? Good. Don't tell them, but at Tratto, chef Cassie Shortino adds butter to her cacio e pepe. That is... not traditional. It is also stupid good. Made simply with parmesan, pecorino, cracked pepper and a splash of pasta water, this rich and creamy take on the Roman classic is based on some killer fresh pasta.
Cheryl Evans/The Republic

Good pho abounds in the Valley. One of the better specimens can be found at Pho Thuan Thanh, one of the longtime stalwarts of Mesa’s Asian market neighborhood. It also happens to be one of the Valley's more photogenic specimens at a window table at 9:30 in the morning. Breakfast pho? You bet. In Vietnam, pho is straight-up breakfast food. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Good pho abounds in the Valley. One of the better specimens can be found at Pho Thuan Thanh, one of the longtime stalwarts of Mesa’s Asian market neighborhood. It also happens to be one of the Valley's more photogenic specimens at a window table at 9:30 in the morning. Breakfast pho? You bet. In Vietnam, pho is straight-up breakfast food.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

At The Larder + The Delta, Stephen Jones is taking vegetables in some unconventional directions, but this one's just wild. You start with parsley root and hay, roast it until tender and smoky. Then you plunk it down in some celery root puree, splash it with a bright walnut-studded salsa verde and add benne streusel — kind of like sesame on steroids. It's nutty, smoky, gorgeously understated and I've never seen a dish like it. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

At The Larder + The Delta, Stephen Jones is taking vegetables in some unconventional directions, but this one's just wild. You start with parsley root and hay, roast it until tender and smoky. Then you plunk it down in some celery root puree, splash it with a bright walnut-studded salsa verde and add benne streusel — kind of like sesame on steroids. It's nutty, smoky, gorgeously understated and I've never seen a dish like it.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The thing about lettuce is that it usually gets buried. And that's partly because most lettuce out there is factory farmed junk that isn't worth highlighting. But when you have some really excellent little gem lettuce, like this gorgeous little mound at The Larder + The Delta, that's where you want the focus to go. It's plied with some freeze dried corn, a few nuts and grains and a modicum of bacon. The little stroke of genius, however, is that in lieu of a punchy dressing, it's tossed with plain, chilled buttermilk, snapping that focus right to the killer greens. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

The thing about lettuce is that it usually gets buried. And that's partly because most lettuce out there is factory farmed junk that isn't worth highlighting. But when you have some really excellent little gem lettuce, like this gorgeous little mound at The Larder + The Delta, that's where you want the focus to go. It's plied with some freeze dried corn, a few nuts and grains and a modicum of bacon. The little stroke of genius, however, is that in lieu of a punchy dressing, it's tossed with plain, chilled buttermilk, snapping that focus right to the killer greens.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Asian fusion pasta is A Thing, and though we've only seen it in limited quantities here in the Valley, Katsu is doing a bang-up job of changing that. This stand at the Asiana Market food court does a lot of things well, but chief among them is the pasta. Here, the Japanese-Italian classic, mentaiko pasta, combines fish roe and plenty of butter with charred prawns — creamy and rich with just a little bit of seafood funk. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Asian fusion pasta is A Thing, and though we've only seen it in limited quantities here in the Valley, Katsu is doing a bang-up job of changing that. This stand at the Asiana Market food court does a lot of things well, but chief among them is the pasta. Here, the Japanese-Italian classic, mentaiko pasta, combines fish roe and plenty of butter with charred prawns — creamy and rich with just a little bit of seafood funk.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Katsu offers Korean-Italian fusion as well, and anytime you drop spaghetti in this much cream, my Italian ancestors start to posthumously freak out. But honestly, with apologies to generations of Armatos, the kimchi spaghetti is just good, perfect al dente spaghetti in a cream sauce that's loaded with bacon flavored with spicy tart kimchi. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Katsu offers Korean-Italian fusion as well, and anytime you drop spaghetti in this much cream, my Italian ancestors start to posthumously freak out. But honestly, with apologies to generations of Armatos, the kimchi spaghetti is just good, perfect al dente spaghetti in a cream sauce that's loaded with bacon flavored with spicy tart kimchi.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

I am so very, very down with messy, casual grub. It doesn't have to be pretty if it tastes good. Still, you want to see what a little bit of clever knife work can do for a dish? At Tacos Culichi, the tostada de ceviche is unusually good. And the careful mince on the vegetables combined with the artful avocado fan isn't just for looks. It affects the texture of the dish, which affects the flavor. It's the kind of detail that takes time and care, and that pays off. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

I am so very, very down with messy, casual grub. It doesn't have to be pretty if it tastes good. Still, you want to see what a little bit of clever knife work can do for a dish? At Tacos Culichi, the tostada de ceviche is unusually good. And the careful mince on the vegetables combined with the artful avocado fan isn't just for looks. It affects the texture of the dish, which affects the flavor. It's the kind of detail that takes time and care, and that pays off.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Sonoran hot dogs rule the roost, but it seems as though the variety of similar concoctions you can find around town is starting to get interesting. One gets the sense there isn't exactly a standard lexicon — I have a feeling these stands just take six or eight combinations and make up names on the spot — but whatever you call them, they all have their own unique charms. At Tacos Culichi, the hot dog Sinaloense adds slabs of grilled onion and a special sauce to the Mexidog topping pantheon, to enjoyable effect. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Sonoran hot dogs rule the roost, but it seems as though the variety of similar concoctions you can find around town is starting to get interesting. One gets the sense there isn't exactly a standard lexicon — I have a feeling these stands just take six or eight combinations and make up names on the spot — but whatever you call them, they all have their own unique charms. At Tacos Culichi, the hot dog Sinaloense adds slabs of grilled onion and a special sauce to the Mexidog topping pantheon, to enjoyable effect.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Tacos are tacos are tacos except when they're made with just a little more care than the rest. Tacos Culichi is one of those places that isn't going to change the world, but they make everything just a little more carefully than everybody else, offering the standards, unusually well-prepared. Case in point, taco meats: carefully cooked, carefully seasoned and even more carefully diced, making for a smooth, tender texture as you eat. Dominic Armato/The Republic

The best food photos of 2019 so far

Tacos are tacos are tacos except when they're made with just a little more care than the rest. Tacos Culichi is one of those places that isn't going to change the world, but they make everything just a little more carefully than everybody else, offering the standards, unusually well-prepared. Case in point, taco meats: carefully cooked, carefully seasoned and even more carefully diced, making for a smooth, tender texture as you eat.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

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The best food photos of 2019 so far

Hanna Gabrielsson's Swedish meatballs are back. Beaver Choice is now BeCe Kitchen, and her revamped Polish/Swedish fast casual joint is turning out homey meals for $10. These meaty little fellas are exactly what you're hoping for — tender, well-seasoned and swimming in a rich and creamy gravy.

For June, Eat Here First offers a Detroit-style pizzeria in the West Valley, a family-owned Mexican restaurant serving a rare Pueblan specialty and a Tempe spot offering refined Sichuan-style food.

You might think you know all the best spots for pizza in metro Phoenix. But if you haven't tried The Rec Pizzeria in Peoria, you might be missing out on one of the few places in town doing Detroit-style pies.

June's Eat Here First includes not only this new-ish pizzeria, but also a family-owned Mexican restaurant where food critic Dominic Armato found a rare Peublan specialty he's been searching for for years. There's also a hot new Chinese restaurant in Tempe with a menu of Sichuan and Beijing-style food that's worth exploring.

Here are the three new Phoenix restaurants you need to try right now.

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Purists can rest easy. There are plenty of traditional options on the 13-item pizza menu (plus build-your-own), including the classic “Detroiter,” topped simply with a sweet, oregano-flecked tomato sauce, slabs of pepperoni and plenty of cheese.

The edges are the thing, and the contrast in textures is spot on. As pizza goes, Detroit-style isn’t exactly one of the more highbrow varieties, but neither are a lot of things we find irresistible. The crunch of that crisp, greasy, deep brown crust yielding to a pillowy core is just flat-out good.

Once you get tired of the basics — if you get tired of the basics — Gluck has a litany of specialty pizzas to try. — Dominic Armato

El Rincon Poblano in Phoenix

On a quiet weekday afternoon at El Rincon Poblano, Felipe and Maria Tehuitzl man the front of the house while their kids giggle and play behind a display case loaded with ice cream. A little fellow emerges, barely knee-high, musters the courage to say hello to a group of diners, and the table melts.

Felipe’s brother, Guillermo Jr., is out running errands while their parents, Ester and Guillermo Sr., are in the kitchen preparing for the evening’s service. The elder couple has been here since 4 a.m. It's a difficult but necessary schedule when you’re committed to making everything fresh, every day.

“People told us to make the rice once a week, freeze it and thaw it little by little,” Felipe says. “But it’s important to us to make it fresh every day.”

It's a small difference maybe, but an important one. And the neighborhood is starting to notice. El Rincon Poblano opened in March, and though the weekdays are still slow, the weekends are already hopping.

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That’s partly because it’s an inexpensive, unassuming place to get a hearty meal. But it’s also because this family-run shop boasts flavorful “made this morning” Mexican fare and a selection of Pueblan specialties that should raise some eyebrows.

The cemita is a Pueblan specialty — and one of the hottest items on my personal wishlist since I arrived in Phoenix in 2010.

They’re tortas, yes, but a particularly beguiling subset thereof. Variations exist, but the archetype starts with a sesame bun (“cemita” can refer to either the sandwich or the bread itself), usually with a brioche-like eggy flavor. Meats vary widely, but condiments tend to focus on sliced avocado, Oaxaca cheese, slivers of raw onion, pickled chipotle chiles and a peppery, cilantro-like herb called papalo — a true rarity around these parts. — Dominic Armato

Old Town Taste in Tempe

Xiaohan “Bear” Xu had heard of the growing Chinese restaurant scene in Phoenix. He’d also heard that much of it was subpar. So together with Janice Yu, whom Xu calls his wife though the couple are not legally married, and his business partner, Zuhao Wang, the trio chose south Tempe as the location for their first restaurant. After a few months of renovation, Old Town Taste opened on April 6.

Ho hum, another day, another new Chinese restaurant in the East Valley, you say.

Stop right there. You’re going to want to pay attention to this one.

On the southeast corner of Broadway Road and McClintock Drive, tucked into a strip mall two doors down from BP Street Café, Old Town Taste is making some impressively refined Sichuan and Beijing-style food.

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The menu is deep and will take some time to explore. Cold Sichuan appetizers are on hold for maybe a month. The team is seeking just the right chef to spearhead that effort. But the rest of the menu is very strong, and the kitchen is already turning out some serious gems.

On the Sichuan side, they’re bringing the fire.

The house special spicy pot is one of those chaotic, throw everything in the pot creations, with ingredients like glass noodles, bean curd, lotus root, quail eggs and thick slabs of spam, all swimming in soupy ma la fire. A little more refined, if in the same wheelhouse, is Chen’s saute chicken, a dish of braised chicken wings with peppers and onions in a thick, rich gravy that hums with spice. — Dominic Armato