There are some dishes which mark a certain point in the year for me. Now is the time for Spring risotto. The broad beans are small, the peas are sweet and the herbs are freshly sprouted. Every year I make this slightly differently, usually with fresh asparagus tips, sometimes with the tender sprouting leaves of the broad beans, always with young herbs.

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This year's risotto was made with an emphasis on the freshness of herbs. The oregano plants I had been growing were ready to pluck some leaves from and mixed with mint and parsley and a little lemon zest, it tasted bright and spring like.

First pod the peas and broad beans. In a heavy bottomed pan, melt the butter and gently fry the onion with a little salt until it is soft and sweet but not coloured. Add the risotto rice and stir well so it becomes coated in the butter and starts to fry a little bit. Pour in the vermouth so the rice sizzles and bubbles and cook, stirring for a couple of minutes until the alcohol has evaporated and the liquid in absorbed. Then add the stock, ladle by ladle, stirring so that it is almost all absorbed before you add the next one. After the first couple of ladles, add the broad beans and peas. They need to cook before the rice is ready. Season the rice and peas well.

Keep adding stock and stirring until the risotto looks creamy and the rice has a little bite to it but doesn't feel chalky inside. This will take about 15 minutes. It doesn't matter if you haven't added all the stock but it's important the rice has the right creamy consistency, not too wet but not stodgy either.

Turn off the heat and add the herbs and lemon zest, the butter and parmesan and stir well. Check the seasoning and leave it to sit for a minute to settle.