Micros

If you find yourself here you have probably got your hands on some Micros! This page is intended to give you a little more info on how to get the most of your little dead hanging holds.

These tiny edges are designed to test and train your crimp strength to the max. They come as a set of 6 holds in 3 pairs, 10mm, 8mm, 6mm in depth. This should give you plenty of options for training your crimp strength, weather you're fairly new to climbing, or a seasoned Font 8C beast.

To mount them, stick them on a vertical surface, wth the pairs round about shoulder width apart. Exactly how you mount them is up to you, either on their own or in and around an existing fingerboard set up...

Be careful when mounting these. We don't recommend using an impact driver as the high torque might split the thin wood. Ideally you should drill pilot holes, then screw the holds on by hand.

- The 2 most important variables are Edge size and Resistance, but the latter 3 are also valuable methods of increasing overall difficulty of the exercise.

-Remember to concentrate on form. If you are training crimp strength, make sure your fingers are in the correct position during the exercise. If you are training half crimp, the same applies. Once your fingers fall out of the desired position, step off. Make the exercise easier then start again. - It's not about how long you can be off the ground for, but how effectively you are working the specific grip type that you are aiming to train.

How often should I train?

This totally depends on how conditioned you are for the exercises, and also what other training you are doing. Initially once per week will be plenty. But as you progress you can start to introduce a 2nd and 3rd session. Max hang sessions are very short so you can fit them in and around your other training fairly effectively, but they are very intense. Be careful out there... If in doubt, rest.

Current records

These holds are in their infancy, but currently the 6mm hold record at beastmaker HQ (on 2 arms) is about 15 seconds (no thumbs!). Cut us some slack, we are all past our best these days!

Please send us any videos of your records to micros@beastmaker.co.uk, or share via #beastmakermicros - we love seeing them!