Ferment 7-10 days, then bottle without priming (this is a still beer). There may be some residual fermentation that provides very light carbonation. You can also wait until all fermentation completes and then bottle, which takes about 14 days or so.

This beer could benefit from extended resting time to let the fluffy trub settle out - whether in the fermenter, or the bottle. It will not form a typical yeast layer on the bottom of a bottle, but rather more of a gelatin-like layer in the bottle. Be aware when pouring the beer from the bottle so globs of trub don't fall into the glass.

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* Tasting Notes *
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Appearance - much like a hefeweizen. Bright, cloudy yellow. Described as looking like "pineapple juice" by a few people.

Aroma - yeasty, with light fruit.

Flavor - Grapefruit and wheat. Harsher/edgier citrus "zing" when fresh, which has mellowed considerably over the course of a few weeks in the bottle. This beer has a hint of dryness, with a very forward hop presence.

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* Bottom line *
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This is an interesting piece of history from Mr. Washington. I will be bottling this a month or two before the 4th of July, to share with others.

George advises "hops to your taste" and I would take him up on it - vary the hops but watch out with the alpha...you want low alpha hops for this brew. The bitterness of the hops presents itself assertively if you are not careful with the bittering amount.

This is a very light and dry beer that showcases hops if you proportion it right, with a smooth mouthfeel and very light wheat notes.

Take a large Sifter full of Bran[.]
Hops to your Taste. Boil these 3 hours. Then strain out 30 Gallons into a Cooler, put in 3 Gallons Molasses while the Beer is scalding hot or rather drain the molasses into the Cooler & strain the Beer on it while boiling Hot. Let this stand till it is little more than Blood warm. Then put in a quart of Yeast if the weather is very cold, cover it over with a Blanket & let it work in the Cooler 24 hours. Then put it into the Cask[.] leave the bung open till it is almost done working[.] Bottle it that day Week it was Brewed.

Notes: Heat 13 quarts water to 163° F. Crush whole grains and add, with flaked wheat, to liquor. Hold mash at 152° F for 75 minutes. Runoff and sparge with 16 quarts water at 170° F. Add DME, stir well, bring to a boil. Add hops, boil 60 minutes. Remove from heat. Add to fermenter along with enough pre-boiled and chilled water to make up 5.25 gallons.

Cool to 70° F, pitch ale yeast. Ferment at 68° F for two weeks, rack onto fruit in your secondary and add lambic culture. Condition cool (50° F) for three to four weeks. Rack into third vessel to clarify at 50° F for two weeks. Prime with DME, bottle and age at least three to four weeks at 45° to 50° F. Serve at 40° F in either a heavy glass tumbler or a champagne-style flute.

Cool and Aerating the Wort:
Cool the wort to below 80°F using an ice bath, adding ice made from boiled water to top off your full volume, or using a wort chiller (best method). Once your wort is below 80°F, transfer it into your primary fermentor, and take a hydrometer reading. See our FAQs for tips on taking a hydrometer reading.

Use One of These Methods for Aeration:
• Pour the cool wort between two sanitized buckets several times.
• Mix and stir vigorously for several minutes with a sanitized spoon.
• Aerate with the Midwest Supplies Aeration system for up to 10 minutes (7862).
• Add pure oxygen for 2 minutes with the Midwest
Supplies’ Oxygenation Kit 2.0 (40033).

Fermentation:
Pitch (add) your yeast and store your fermentor in a dark area with
a stable temperature of 65–72°F. Leave until primary fermentation is complete, usually between 7–14 days. If you’re unsure, take a hydrometer reading.

Optional, but highly recommended: Rack to a 5 gallon carboy for secondary fermentation and aging. Midwest recommends a 3 week secondary fermentation for this kit.

Dry Hops:
5-10 days before packaging the beer add 1 oz Citra and 1 oz
Cascade to the fermenter.

Bottling:
Remember to clean and sanitize all of your bottling gear. Mix priming
sugar with 2 cups of water and boil for 5 minutes. Cool and add to your bottling bucket. Rack your beer on top of the priming solution, making sure it gets mixed in well. Bottle and cap. Once bottled, store in a dark place between 65–72°F for 1–2 weeks to carbonate.

Notes: Mash & steeping: The mash is acidified to a pH of 5.4 with phosphoric acid.

I'm assuming low efficiency because I use most of the second runnings either for another brew or for starters (and it's easier to control; i.e., stop sparging at the right point).

Between 15 and 17 gravity points should come from the table sugar and the rest from the malt, regardless of the actual percentages (i.e., the gravity without the sugar should be around 1.074). Different proportions will yield different final gravities. This proportion gets me the closest to the desired FG (~1.013 down from ~1.090), with this mash schedule.

Sugar: The dark sugar I use is made from the reaction of glucose with a specific amino-acid combination at high temperature and controlled pH. It is made in very small but super concentrated batches to avoid over-pyrolising the sugars. Colour is approximate. One could use a part dark candi syrup and a part sucrose (matching the colour) to get similar results.

Fermentation & conditioning: Pitching rate is possibly between 0.5 Mc/ml/°P and 0.75 Mc/ml/°P but not sure exactly (I've established it empirically based on how I grow my yeast, and I know that this yeast can take it, but other yeasts produce bad alcohols at this same pitching rate). Pitched between 18°C and 20°C in a well oxygenated wort. It is allowed to rise to up to ~21°C in the first 24 hours and up to ~24°C in the next 24 hours. After that it can rise up to 28°C with no problem. It is held at peak temperature for a few days until primary fermentation is almost complete. Then it is cooled down slowly for a couple of days and transferred to secondary and conditioned cool for ~6 weeks.
Then it is bottled with fresh yeast and conditioned warm for the first couple of weeks. Ready to drink after a few weeks in the bottle.

the colder you start out, the less the diacetyl that is produced
Let it go for 12 hrs at 40 degrees. creep up to 50 degrees by 48 hrs

Steve's thoughts: I don't entirely agree with his fermentation method
mostly because normally you would actually do what's called a diacetyl rest
because SOME "will" be produced, so what you do is raise the temp after ferm is mostly finished, to let the yeast eat those byproducts basically
so you could follow his schedule, let it sit at 50 for a week or two, then raise to 65 or even 70 for 2 days to finish of the diacetyl
THEN down to lagering temps (close to freezing as you dare)