Having the site down allowed for a tremendous amount of backend work to be done (a more thorough IT explanation in the next post). For those not familiar with that side of things, an analogy would be that we were constantly maintaining, patching and repairing a crumbling building. The last few days enabled the old building to be demolished, new foundations laid, materials tested and then assembled.

Now, we can, without constant distraction,...

Last post

Hope no one minds but I'm going to close/lock this thread and correspond directly with the posters above via email. Juggling a few too many things atm, still IT stuff :dunno: .

goulaigan will be first on my list of emails. The email will be called rsync nightmare.

:) Thanks again for the above,
Pat

P.S. That busy that Sarah and I haven't even had a beer together in the last fortnight :O

The following problems should only affect a tiny fraction of users.
If using Google Chrome, you may find ; upon registration, after solving the Captcha or 'Sortable' correctly you are told you are incorrect; not being able to login using your proper username and password; when posting, finding the 'Add Files' button not working.

Solution/s

This problem is extremely rare although a few users on other phpBB forum software...

Last post

Got a strange one Pat & Sarah. I received a My first post notification so I clicked on it...It took me to page 324 . Seems to be 327 pages :think: :think: :think: Tried it 3x and same result..I went back to yesterdays email and the notification went through properly ..
J

As mentioned in the post 2017 - A Major New Year for the Site , an incredible amount of work has been spent on the new site structure, which will make the information on BIABrewer.info fast and easy to find.

In this thread, I'll try to explain the coming changes in a series of posts, which I'll endeavour to write every few days or so. These updates will include, but not be limited to:

Why 2017 and Not...

Last post

NOTE: IF YOU USE GMAIL, PLEASE ADD OUR WEBMASTER EMAIL TO YOUR LIST OF SAFE SENDERS
Hi there shetc and thanks for your questions.

In the temporary skin (the one with green header) active topics can be changed at the bottom. In the Gold skin, this option is accessed by clicking the filter button arrowed in the pic below BUT that button is failing (see Update below).

In the new site structure, recipes will be much easier to find but I like your idea of being able to search for posts with...

There is a way to add Hop bitterness, Flavor, or Amorma AFTER the Boil is finish.

Below is the data about the Most Important Hop Oils used in BEER Brewing.

Essential oils
Alpha acids

The alpha acids are the hop components most familiar to home brewers. Every package of hops sold to homebrewers indicates the alpha acid percentage to allow the brewer to calculate the bitterness he or she wants in the finished beer. The alpha acid percentage represents the amount of the...

Last post

well a blind tasting is in

I had 4 guys do the test, each had 4 beers in front of them, labeled a, b, c, d. they were actually just 2 beers, both a simple blonde ale, when the mash was finished the wort was separated into 2 pots. Now one was hopped right away and the other hopped when the boil started. no finishing hops were used.

2 of the guys were able to match the correct beers, of those 2 they stated that the one which was FWHed was smoother. they did not know what the difference was.
1...

I posted results from my first round of IBU testing results several months ago, same Hopping . Below are my most recent results. Testing date was last Monday, 3/20/3017.

When people have their beer tested, frequently / normally it winds up low in IBUs, and frequently the home brewer blames bitterness estimation formulas (Tinseth, Rager, Garetz, etc.), which of course are not perfect... Would the formula(s) be more accurate if they used just tested fresh hops, where they could trust the listed...

Last post

Thanks Streamer.

I'm not totally writing it off, but may have to adjust it some and with pellets have it apply a lower percentage. Or perhaps the hop spider made a large impact too. Not certain... :scratch:

Seemed like it was working pretty well until my last batch of testing...beer from spring on, where I was way over on everything. Which is causing me to question everything.

For my last two brews I calculated to see what it said and then adjusted it some.

I had a Feral Finn Diesel here in Ozland last week and loved it. I just received an email that said, Feral Finn Diesel IPA

Inhale the intoxicating exhaust of pine, perfume and citrus as this rust bucket of a beer shudders and backfires sweet, heady fumes deep into the atmosphere.
A front and centre stage for the new-to-market hop product Lupulin Powder, Finn Diesel uses both Simcoe and Citra extracts throughout multiple stages of the brewing process to...

Last post

Michael Tonsmeire is sharing his recipes and experience with Lupulin Powder on The Mad Fermentationist blog.

If you ar following the FWH thread you see I have doen some experiments in this system, It highly interest me as I do like hops, but I do not like hash hops.

I am not a scientist, I do not even know how to measure how harsh hops can be except blind testing.

So I am doing just that, I have 4 friends who are trying to identify which beers are what, how I brew is I make 5 gallons of wort, divide that and do one FWH and the other I add at the onset of the boil....

In interest of Self Promotion....
see viewtopic.php?f=150&t=2215 for Late wort hopping, and how the Hop Oils get distributed by Temperature.

Admin note: Joshua has experimented with FWH and has some first-hand experience with the results (which I have added to...

Last post

Scott, that is enough of an answer for me to do it.

I do many pilsners and lagers, I prefer lagers over ales and my favorite beer style is a Marzin/Vienna.

I am not saying I do not do ales, I do about half and half because there are many ale styles I like.

But reading about FWHing it appears the style would work great with light lagers, and for some reason heavy ales like Scotch ales. where the bitter needs to be really balanced
I was going do a continental lager this Saturday but I did not...

I had a situation recently where brewed a couple beers with Santiam hops @ 7.9% AA. Both were under hopped in my opinion...not the recipe. Flavor good - just not enough... Hops had been properly stored, and looked and smelled great. My feeling was somehow the AA, if correct initially, had somehow dropped dramatically. (?)

Brewed a beer yesterday and I took the above Santiam hops (FWH, 15 min and 1 min) and multiplied the 7.9% AA and multiplied by 70% for a 5.5% AA estimate. Used Magnums for...

Last post

This PDF might be interesting to read. Formulas are mentioned regarding hop storage losses on page 63 and 64.

I have two batches of Pilsner on tap now (among 6 total on tap...lots, too much to brew more right now). Some interesting notes in bitterness, and at least calculated bitterness with our BIABacus and it's Tinseth formula. Reviewing Lumpy's Post this morning made me think about this...

Tale of 2 Pilsners:
1) Czech Pilsner - supposed to have IBU of around 40. Instead of Saaz (CZ or US), used Sterling hops (US) - 100%. Sterling is supposed to be very similar. Tastes like it has some Citrus in...

Hello all, I have a question perhaps you folks can help me with . I am brewing a beer that after calculating the grain absorption i will start with 8.5 gallons . I lose 2 gallons per hour to boil off and want to end the boil with 6.5 gallons of which i will transfer 5.5 to my fermenter.So boiling 60 minutes would give me the 6.5 gallons in theory. I want the finished beer to have around 20 /25 IBU bitterness so how can i calculated how much of a given AA unit hops to add at the beginning of my...

Last post

Like Scott said, BIABacus is the spreadsheet that does all the calculations for you. :peace:

But if you want to quickly run a calculation this is Glenn Tinseth's online calculator.

Was not sure where to post this and thought this a reasonable place. In the UK, which is where I am, hops are mostly bought in 100 gm packs. Over the last year or so, trying out various types of beers, I have a load of left over hops stored in my freezer. Some can be used in rebrewing the brews I liked but there are a load of various others that were used in beers that didnt appeal and I will not brew again. So the question is what do other brewers do with them? Throw them away, or use...

Last post

Remember that hops added 60 minutes out will just add bitterness. So the aroma and flavor won't matter much. Higher AA the more bitterness you get. And lots of hops can go well together in aroma / flavor (so starting at 15 minutes from end of boil on and through flameout.

Review the hop descriptions and make sure you don't see any real red flags... Then beyond that just use your judgement and...what's the worst that can happen?

So, after just over a year of BIAB and somewhere around 20 batches under my belt, I finally decided to use a hopsock. Brewed a black IPA that I designed and had 7 oz of hops to add during the boil (and 3 more for dry hop), so I decided to do as recommended here so many times and use my BIAB bag for the hops. I think the reason I haven't done this before is I've always dumped the grain and cleaned the bag after the brewday is done, probably due to laziness the first few times and then it just...

Last post

for small batch BIAB, aquarium media bags are convenient, they come in different sizes to match your use and big box pet stores as well as aquarium shops carry them.

Decided to send in some samples to the Oregon BrewLab to get a feel for how far off my beers' IBUs might or might not be... Was $10 US per sample for the four samples, plus shipping...which seemed pretty reasonable, for R&D purposes. I'll list the 4 brews that I sent in, along with what adjustments were done (if any), estimated IBUs (Tins.) with the BIABacus, along with what IBUs were tested at.

As some of you know, I've been working a bunch over the past couple months to put together...

Last post

Scott and Contrarian, to drag up an old link about the essential hop oils and the Temperatures, they Dissolve/Melt,

step ONE
drill 4 holes equal distance apart through the narrow part of the reducer.
step TWO
take to pieces of rope of equal length thread each end through the holes and tie a knot in the ends.

step THREE
Take a piece of syphon tube and cut to the same length as the...

Last post

A hop bomb's worth of soggy hops may absorb too much liquid and pull off the bag? So make sure the bag is attached well. Also the moist steam may (Sticky`fie) the hops as they enter the restricted neck and clog. Good luck and keep the brain churning out ideas. (note: most new ideas are in the fourth or fifth version?)

As I understand it, hops added in the beginning of the brew mostly contribute to bitterness - other flavors diminish due to the heat and time spent in the kettle. Still I see many recipes calling for early additions (sometimes even as FWH) of noble hops, when in fact one could use a fraction of the amount by adding bittering hops, such as magnum, with over twice the %AA. This saves money, both because bittering hops are cheaper (at least where I live) but also due to the fact that you...

Last post

Traditionally some of the higher AA hops were not available. Some folks want to stay true to some historical styles so they will use these lower AA hops.
I personally us Magnum unless I am brewing a pilsner or something else that calls for low bitterness.

I have transitioned to a small bittering charge at 60 minutes and a large hop addition at flameout with a generous dry hop.

Now this article indicates there is not much difference and IBU calculations ay not be worth as much as we think.

Thoughts?

Last post

I wait a couple of minutes after flame-out just to record my VFO. I am electric and no chill, so I recirculate and will keep it from falling below 190 °F by way of PID. No chill, I like to drain into container no lower than 190 °F. It's all one big exbeeriment :lol: for me. YMMV

Rick uses gas, so I would guess he does NOT add any more heat after flame-out. :dunno:

I used to flame on to bump the temperature up, but I don't bother anymore. Now that I do larger batches with other heated...

I just harvested from my cascade hop vines for the first time this year. I think I got enough for one real good dry hopping. Some of the hops near the top had turned completely brown but still smelled good. Is there any reason not to use these? Also now that the hops are picked should I cut the vines down at the ground and let them re-grow next year?

thanks :drink:

Last post

I just used some hops growing wild here in Copenhagen. They seem noble in nature: spicy, lemony. But I used them in a tiny batch for bittering, assuming it was something like 3%AA, and as a finishing hop in an 80 Shilling ale.

I've added to much hops to this brew (Below) and would like to know what I can do about it. The taste of the beer is far to bitter. This is only my second brew and I did not follow the recipe completely as written.

Should I make another batch with only 25% of the hops and then mix the two batches together? Or what should I do?

I was at one of our local microbreweries yesterday and was talking with one of the Brewers. On their Bohemian Pilsner they use a 90 minute Bittering hop addition (Magnum), then nothing until flavor and aroma additions near the end, think it was 15 min and 1 min (and Saaz & Tettnanger, 50/50 split). Said doing 90 minute was more effective than 60 minute in creating bitterness, get more done with less hops... I plugged this into the BIABacus this morning and it also showed the brew would be more...

Last post

RedWino - if you do this make sure you post and let us know exactly what you did and what the results were... I'm still intrigued by the idea of FWH.

So I'm gonna brew the All Amarillo APA with Cascade pellets. I tried to calculate new amounts in grams considering the slightly different AA's, and I think I got that about right, but does the BIABicus have pellets or flowers as default, as should I adjust for that? And what about using a hop bag, is there adjusting there too?

Thanks!

Last post

Sort on time onk but here is a pic... 2014-08-06_21-13-12.jpg Hopefully that shows how pellets are the default and how to vary from that.

Your topic title also mentions, ...in a bag. There is no adjustment for that. I know you might have read that somewhere else but ignore that advice. Any hop bag or 'sock' that is properly designed (such as your BIAB bag) will not limit your hop utilisation.

I am just waiting to try my first bottle of a Guinness clone I made recently and I have a question regarding my IBU's.
I was aiming for 46 IBU Tinseth which according to BIABacus I hit the mark but I plugged in the recipe to iBrewmaster on my iPhone and it's telling me the IBU's are 65 Tinseth. Why is this? It was a single addition of hops right at 90 min should I have waited till 60 min?

Last post

Many programs have errors in their IBU calculations. For example they use the gravity into boil instead of the gravity at the end of the boil and/or use the volume into fermentor instead of the volume into fermentor plus the kettle to fermentor loss. One major program had both these errors for many years. Until just now, I was under the impression that they had corrected both errors after we pointed it out quite some time ago but a quick check now shows that both errors are still present...

Forum permissions

You cannot post new topics in this forumYou cannot reply to topics in this forumYou cannot edit your posts in this forumYou cannot delete your posts in this forumYou cannot post attachments in this forum