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Topic Review (Newest First)

03-18-2020 01:45 AM

gspfunk

I didnít read everything, but I can give you my $.02.

Sounds like youíre just looking to do bolt-one for the most part. As mentioned, not a lot to be gained from a CAI, especially alone, so donít rush into that. It also wonít hurt, if you have a line on one.

Exhaust: I would run shorty headers and a Magnaflow X as that combo will get you close to long tube power, but is a ****-ton easier to work on/install. Whatever catback you like works. OEM SRT exhaust is also a decent option.

Tuner: HP Tuners or get a Diablo inTune/Trinity and then send your logs off and get a CMR tune from Johan, Jerseyboy, HemiTuner, etc. The CMR tune is much better than any of the canned tunes on the programmer.

Suspension: Iím running the H&R Sport springs on my SRT8 and love them. It came with the Bwoody/RoadMagnets, but they were harsh as hell on Dallas roads. The H&R handle really well, but are still great for the streets. Iím still running the stock Bilsteins, as well. The H&R are actually intended for the regular WK1, so they donít lower the SRT much, but it should drop an inch or so from a reg. height WK1.

Iím not a fan of aftermarket coils, etc, as the OEM has proven to be the best overall for most people. Obviously, boosting it changes that aspect. The catch can is definitely a good idea.

My mods are in my garage profile if you have any specific questions.

03-15-2020 02:15 PM

90grandoneer

It sounds like you have your plan of attack. The way I did mine was to first make sure it is as reliable as the day is long. Then I started modding in what I considered to be a "logical" order. I also did some of the easier stuff first.......custom CAI using an SRT airbox and intake tube, an MDS "ON" light so I could tell when the MDS is active, a couple tuners (Superchips and Diablosport), a catch can for the crappy PCV System, a tune up (which hadn't ever been done in the first 49K of its life), and oil change (when I bought it the stupid Jeep dealer put the wrong weight oil in it....10W-30 instead of 5W-20), and get the alignment fixed. I guess I've been lucky though, as I've never really had any component failures other than fair wear and tear items. I did have an EGR Valve failure at about 60K though. After that, I started with a custom header back exhaust system and then a performance cam. From that point, most of the stuff wss easy bolt on until the last couple years. Mine is an early one (06 Overland) and has the possibility of a dropped valve seat, so I pulled the heads and had all the valve seats replaced and, since they were already off, had them ported, polished and milled, and replaced the mid-length headers with ARH long tube headers. I am, at least for now, done messing with it. Also, since I now have 3 early Hemi vehicles that are all modded about the same.....cams, headers, tuners, etc. and are all about the way I want them, I've noticed that the bank account seems to be growing a little rather than always going the other way. Since I keep my vehicles almost forever, making them the way I want them is, IMO, the easiest and least expensive (and fun) way to go......for sure better than buying some of the newer junk....plus over the past almost 16 years of having at least one (they all have a bunch of interchangeable stuff) of these vehicles, I am getting to know them quite intimately and can tell when something is not quite right. At this point, I really don't ever plan to buy another vehicle of any kind. If I do, it'll probably be another SRT or Hellcat.....something I won't have to do anything to.....except enjoy the power.

03-15-2020 05:17 AM

Mtndewdude88

90grandoneer

Yeah I am basically at the start of mods, at least compared to where I would like to end up. Yeah I have the 5 speed 545RFE. I do plan to mess with shift points and such as they are pretty awful. Actually what I do myself is use the auto stick a lot lol. its usually only in D when on a highway drive. the auto stick is a must to me when in town because of how atrocious the shift programming is. I also don't much care for the MDS feature and the auto stick disables that. I know they claim that it activates so fast that its almost imperceptible, but I can tell when its on in town driving especially, coasting along coming up to a red light that turns green so you give it a little gas, and its got nothing...give it a touch more too quickly and then it drops you 3 gears and slams everything into motion...absolutely moronic. I actually had to replace the rear pinion seal within weeks after buying it because one particular time i gave it some throttle because I wanted to feel that power, and well it put that power down alright, the second it did i cringed bc it just felt harsh, could feel the driveshaft slam those gears and sure **** when I got home the seal had a slight leak starting. anyways

yeah I actually had emailed BillletTech Friday night to see what they thought about it, I don't think it would take much offset at all the give the two clearance, as it sits it just barely touches the intake tube... a tiny change in how the hose is angled would give the space i think. My other thought was to try and cut the hose a bit shorter because I think that could work as well.

thanks for the information, a lot of this is a learning experience, and though I am a quick study, just knowing how/where to look for info is a huge help. Some things i have spent way too many hours on just to finally type the right combination of words into google so that it allows me to stumble on to a website that had the information I was seeking.

So this part might get long winded but I will try to keep it condensed. I bought this 3 years ago when it was time for a new vehicle, and I finally had the ability to get a decent vehicle, I was 29 at the time, just paid off student loans and old debts and such, so I wanted my first "nice"vehicle...before this they were all beaters... I am not brand myopic so i came up with a list of must haves and set to auto trader to see what was out there. Basically I HAD to have 4 doors, 4wd(sick of FWD in WI winters), and some decent comfort features, under 100k miles. My budget was to stay close to $15k. After months of research and comparing I had continued to come across the WKs and liked the features and looks, and ended up getting mine for $16939 when it had 59k miles on it. I fell in love with it pretty quick, and was completely in love with it after winter number 1, with BFG KO2s/Hemi/QD2 it was a blast and made snow storms something to look forward to. Now as I say that I would also note that I started having the WK trouble immediately after buying it, literally 3 days after the oil pressure sensor went out, limp mode that was so weak I ended up needing a tow. Since then I haven't went I bet 4 months without having some ridiculous stuff pop up. I have done a few TPMS sensors, the transponder, needed a new FDCM, starter went out at like 70k, the trans solenoid pack went out at 80k. the park assist LED light bar randomly flashes(still haven't figured that one out), parking brake switch was all corroded so the light wouldn't come on when the parking brake was set. the re-circulation door gear broke, also my rear wiper wont properly wash the window, it only comes up one swipe and then stops. it still functions as normal for wiping, just not washing. there is a code for rear wiper motor control circuit low, my guess is the relay is shot(which of course is Chrysler genius of having them be soldered onto the junction block and thus claim you need to replace the whole unit. If i test/confirm its the relay I am definitely going to try and solder in a new one myself as it says it is a standard ISO relay, and I have soldered much smaller things onto circuit boards before so I can't imagine that this should be difficult at all. I am currently at 89k miles so to me it seems absolutely insane that I should have had any of these problems at such a young age, and i have many more issues with Chrysler as a whole now bc they evidently can't do much right, another story for another time, but I have parts all over my Jeep that Chrysler claims aren't on my jeep...makes it a real pain when buying parts and every website tries to recommend the wrong parts and tries to tell me the parts I selected don't fit on my jeep when that is what it came with from factory....I have worked in a similar industry for years, and I know how strict ISO certification is, so idk how Chrysler can be ISO certified when they can't even keep track of what part numbers went onto what builds!? Electrically this thing has been a nightmare, but for some damn reason i still love the thing... so as the first year went by I came to the conclusion that Chrysler had designed this vehicle to have so much potential to be absolutely great, but failed to execute on nearly everything. I felt the challenge of taking all their awful designs, and making everything better. also I know that there is no other vehicle out there that will ever meet all my requirements, so I figured lets custom this to me and it will give me a project to work on, and after its all "done" i will have it forever and it will outperform most anything I could ever buy off a lot anyway, but it will be totally mine. So my overall budget is open but rough guess on where i want to end up I am thinking I will have spent easily $25k on this. the time estimate is harder to say. I was hoping to be done within 5 years, but life has just changed a bunch...I had just gotten a really good job, making stupid money, and was getting out of a terrible relationship and such so this was going to be my project/ hobby. now just recently I lost my job, and currently unemployed which has been great since i have spent almost everyday working on it as i wish, but won't be long until I am broke. I have had a ton of interviews and am waiting to hear back on a particular offer as it seems one company has all but asked me to start, so with any luck that should be soon and then I can continue to work on the Jeep...however I am guessing it may take a bit longer now since I won't make nearly the money I was making. SO my overall image was to make this into a performance daily driver that I can also take overlanding. i have not seen much outside of WI and like the idea of using the jeep to explore/camp out of. on the performance side I honestly don't plan to do much because generally the more you mess with the less reliable a vehicle gets, and making it more reliable is a main goal. So intake and exhaust and a 91 tune was the gist of the performance upgrades, just enough to set it free from the restrictions placed on it with that stock setup. Most the money will go into redoing all the suspension, I want the best of everything, poly bushings/heims, better sway bars, links, tie rods, UCA, LCA, king shocks, RCV front axles, etc. I want it to be overbuilt so that it can really handle abuse and be fun to drive both on/off road. i also plan to redo the entire sound proofing as that is a joke. I can't stand the insanely terrible glare, at some points I cant read the instrument panel or head unit bc it can be so bad...I want to find a solution for that, think there are films being made now that can cut down glare significantly without tinting bc I dont want to get the tint much darker than it is already. then appearance wise I want to black out the chrome/black decals, keep the silver paint, black rims. I have a completely blacked out 3rd brake light, the rear light assemblies are red/smoke, and then the front are black housing with clear lenses. now purple is my favorite color(like a plum crazy purple) so I will probably sprinkle in Purple here and there, but mostly it wont be obvious. Think purple lug nuts, i want to get a different grill insert and have that purple, under hood Billet Tech parts are purple. Interior I want to have all the instrument lights switched out for purple(same overall scheme just the green becomes purple). POR-15 the entire under body and skids(basically have all the JBA skids-just got unlucky that they stopped making them before I could get the rock rails as I haven't seen any that I like as much as theirs). I also plan to redo all the wire looms and harness because the plastic corrugated stuff is absolute garbage and looks cheap. everything will be proper looms/tesa tape/heat shrink. i think that as a whole will look really sharp. hopefully I get to complete the image before I am 80

03-14-2020 04:26 PM

90grandoneer

Ahhh, at the start of modding your Jeep......after about 10 years of modding, I remember that time well. Your 2010 will be a little different because of the Variable Valve Timing. Do you still have the old 5 speed transmission or do you have the new 8 speed? Shift schedules and torque managment setting modifications are a must for any somewhat modified early Hemi's with the 545RFE.....if you don't want to be replacing transmissions all the time.

I replaced both the thermostat housing on my 5.7's, but only because I kept getting seeps/leaks from the stock stamped metal ones. I used Billet Technologies ones (no more problems), but I think they were just stock replacements.....no changes to the outlet. You may want to give them a call though and see if they can help you. I'd bet they would if they thought there was a market for it. Thermostat housings must be popular though because I had to wait about a month or so for them to do another run on them........this was about 3-4 years ago.

As far as diagnostic scanners go, I have an Autel MS906BT and, before that I had an Autel DS708. Both, IMO, are very good scanners and will do more than you'll ever want or know how to do. Both of these will do most of the stuff you're after. You'll need something like a Fluke tester for you circuit issues. That's one tool I don't have yet, but my Son does, so I am not too worried about it. The MS906BT will do some programming but, if you want more extensive programming you'll have to move up to the $2000-3000 range. Also, the HP Tuner will do extensive programming of both the engine and transmission, but it has a tremendous learning curve and there are a lot of unfamiliar terms, settings and acronymns that this old timer knows nothing about. With mine, I've limited myself to one thing at a time, mostly engine and transmission settings. What I've done on all 3 of my Hemi's is install base 91 or 93 tunes from either the Diablosport or Superchips Tuners and then modifiy them to suit my desires. None of my "early model" handheld tuners will do extensive modifications to the transmission settings except the old Superchips Advanced Transmission Tuning Application, which I understand is no longer available because too many people were screwing their transmissions up.

I don't know of any device that will allow you to program accessories or on board convenience features. Bet, if we knew what we were doing, it could be done though.

What all are you planning to do to yours.....goals, budget, timing, etc.?

03-13-2020 07:26 PM

Mtndewdude88

@JeepN_A_CJ7 ;

Quote:

90grandoneer
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN_A_CJ7 View Post
I'm running the DiabloSport Trinity 2 EX tuner and I love it! The 91 octane tune is pretty badass and I noticed the difference the first time I started it after the tune install! As for the 90hp gain I doubt but I would "guess" 20-25 max, but it may be more I'm not totally for sure.

Good to know. Does that tuner have the capability to change cooling fan start temperatures....Low, Med, Hi, both with and without A/C on? Can you set the transmission up/down shift schedules and torque management settings the way you want them, or are there canned versions of these? Can you still manually adjust fuel mixtures and timing maps? If it can do those things, it's a good one.

Yeah I 2nd wanting to know more about your experience with the DiabloSport trinity 2 EX and its capabilities! I am at the start of the modifications for my 2010 5.7L Limited, and would like to be able to both tune the trans shift points/91/throttle response/etc and also be able to lower the fan set points as I plan to put in a 190į thermostat. On that note I was curious if anyone has any experience with a waterneck that has some sort of offset or such. The Volant CAI tube and the upper radiator hose cross paths, and though it doesn't seem to cause any issues, to me it is aesthetically not pleasing, and I think if the water neck had come out on a slightly lower angle then the upper hose would sit just a little lower at the point they cross paths and thus they wouldn't be touching. I see some various offset/rotating neck styles but feel like that must open up the possibility of them failing. I was thinking of seeing if BilletTech would be able to make me one? idk guessing that might get expensive if they could/would.

Also anyone have any recommendations for a scanner that is capable of scanning/testing modules? I have the BlueDriver OBD2 but that doesn't give me enough ability, like isolating and running module tests or O2 sensors, etc. Would have made diagnosis of my Evap codes, which seem to have been caused by some shotty wiring at the ESIM/canister, much quicker as I didn't have the ability to chose to watch that circuit and whatnot. I see many other DTC troubleshooting instructions in my TSM call for using a scan tool, and thinking with all the electrical issues I always have it would be a good investment to get a proper bi-directional scanner. How come you can't use them to program/tune settings btw?

As a wishful thinking sort of thing, there are other features I wish had been thought of, and would think that they should be something that could be somehow programmed. One such thing is I wish that when I remote start the WK in cold temps that the drivers heated seats would automatically turn on, I don't see why that couldn't be programmed somehow? like if the ambient temp is below 40, turn the heated seats on! Also activate the heated mirrors/liftgate glass, so when I get to the vehicle its already somewhat thawed at least. anyone know if that can be messed with, I imagine it would take a far more in depth program? some of this stuff I wouldn't mind paying someone to do, even with regards to the performance aspects as I feel it would be likely to be a better tune if it was more specifically made for your situation vs. a sort of generic premade type tune.

I'm running the DiabloSport Trinity 2 EX tuner and I love it! The 91 octane tune is pretty badass and I noticed the difference the first time I started it after the tune install! As for the 90hp gain I doubt but I would "guess" 20-25 max, but it may be more I'm not totally for sure.

Good to know. Does that tuner have the capability to change cooling fan start temperatures....Low, Med, Hi, both with and without A/C on? Can you set the transmission up/down shift schedules and torque management settings the way you want them, or are there canned versions of these? Can you still manually adjust fuel mixtures and timing maps? If it can do those things, it's a good one.

02-19-2020 08:08 PM

JeepN_A_CJ7

I'm running the DiabloSport Trinity 2 EX tuner and I love it! The 91 octane tune is pretty badass and I noticed the difference the first time I started it after the tune install! As for the 90hp gain I doubt but I would "guess" 20-25 max, but it may be more I'm not totally for sure.

Hey guys, just wondering what you've done to pep up your Hemi's without any internal engine work? Mine has 149K miles on it and still runs pretty good, but I know it could use some help! What do you think of the DiabloSport Tuner/Programmer? Pros & Cons. All I have done since I bought the jeep is have that freaking huge muffler replced with a FlowMaster FX. But I'm looking to add a cold air system & tuner soon. Just want to know what would be the best for the money. Thanks!

02-19-2020 09:27 AM

90grandoneer

Dang, Kolak, you're always sooooo good to us. Thank you.

02-18-2020 11:52 PM

Kolak

Some of the 2005 WKs with the 5.7 HEMI can't be tuned by Diablosport or Superchips (same company). Certain VINs are locked and there's no way to tell if yours will tune unless you try it first.

Diablosport/Superchips has never been able to provide an explanation for this, other than to confirm that some won't be able to be tuned.

I'm a dealer for their products. If you'd like to try one just let me know. If it won't tune or you don't like it, you can return it for a full refund.

Sorry, I can't really help you with any of the tuners except the HP Tuner. It has a giant learning curve though and requires a laptop to use. It's also quite a bit more expensive than any of the others, especially if you add in the price of a laptop. Also, since yours is a 2005, you wouldn't be able to do one of the most important features....fix the crappy transmission settings. The HP Tuner does not support the 05-06 models with the NGC3 bus controller. From 2007 on the controller is an NGC4 which processes quicker. My other tuners, Diablosport Predator and Superchips Flashpack, are both 2009 vintage and, I am sure, set up a lot different than the newer ones. On my Jeep, I use a modified (by HP Tuner) Diablosport Predator 93 engine tune and a Superchips Flashpack Advanced Transmission Tuning Application to set up the TCM. Which ever tuner you choose, just be sure it will allow you to modify the up/down shift schedules and torque management settings. That, to me, would be the most important feature of a tuner, even more so than the available engine tunes. All of the handheld tuners have pretty good engine tunes, so that's not really a problem.

I seriously doubt that they can pull 90 more horsepower out of an 05 Jeep with just reprogramming the PCM/TCM. If they can do that, I'd even buy one. The problem with modifying any tune is that you're pretty much limited to only a few things that can be changed.....WOT fuel mixture, and timing maps are the two main things. Most everything else is, in some way, tied to emissions systems and they can't legally mess with that stuff.....and they don't anymore. When all these tuners initially came out in 2005-2006, some of them allowed with you to "tamper with" some of the emissions components, but they have all since gotten rid of those features.

One thing you should consider as soon as you pick up a tuner (first order of business after a catch can) is to install a cooler thermostat (I use 190* ones) and reset the cooling fan start temperatures to take best advantage of the cooler thermostat. This is another feature the tuner you choose should have is the ability to reset (modify) the cooling fan start temperatures. If you're not aware of the early Hemi dropped valve seat problem, do a search on this forum, as well as an internet search on, "early hemi dropped valve seat problem". You'll be shocked. This is why I pulled the heads on both my 5.7's and had all new seats installed and, since they were off, why not have them ported/polished'milled to make things a little better?

02-18-2020 05:51 PM

Johnr6874

WOW!!! Thanks for the great read! I will definitely keep all this in mind and thanks for the money saving tips on the CAI and throttle body as well. And I'm in SC so no worries about the smog police, LOL!! And I'm really planning on running it the strip or track, but I would love to play with these "YOUNGINS" out here on the streets where I live with their little rice cans that sound like a pissed off bumble bee all the time! Also thanks for the info about the under drive crank pulley. I hadn't even thought about that, but makes a lot of sense!!! Definitely going to print your response and keep it in the shop!

But if I may ask, what tuner did you use? I've been looking at the DiabloSport Trinity 2 EX! From what reviews I've read so far, it tuns the PCM & TCM. And "SAYS" up to 90hp gains! But I know that's sometimes just a marketing ploy!

Hey guys, just wondering what you've done to pep up your Hemi's without any internal engine work? Mine has 149K miles on it and still runs pretty good, but I know it could use some help! What do you think of the DiabloSport Tuner/Programmer? Pros & Cons. All I have done since I bought the jeep is have that freaking huge muffler replced with a FlowMaster FX. But I'm looking to add a cold air system & tuner soon. Just want to know what would be the best for the money. Thanks!

Having spent about the last 10 years, a little at a time, modding my 06 Overland, I can give you some pretty good insights as to what works and what doesn't. I'll address them one at a time below, FWIW. I'll start by saying that the budget is probably the biggest factor. That's why it took me about 10 years to get mine the way I want it. The best bang for your bucks is a tuner (one that can modify transmission up/down shift schedules and torque management settings, cost about $300-400), a mild performance cam and kit (about $800) and a good HEADER BACK 3 in. exhaust system....about $2000 for ARH long tube headers and the 3 in. cat. back. Depending on which cam you use and your exhaust configuration, these two fairly expensive mods. can net you as much 70-80 horsepower. Hot Rod Network did dyno tests that showed a cam, open headers and a tune netted a little over 400 horsepower at the crank.

--IMO, a catch can on the 5.7 Hemi's is a must. Cost for a good one is about $100. This should be near the top of the list of mods. The catch can doesn't give you any more horsepower, but it doesn't rob horsepower and removes most of the contaminants (oil and condensation) from the intake, combustion and exhaust tracts which helps prevent knock retard and unintended timing retard.
--The cam requires a slight invasion into the engine innards but the job is not difficult. A MILD performance cam works best, as it does not adversely affect driveablility. Going too aggressive will cost you low end performance and poor idle quality. The cam and kit should include the cam, better valve springs (I use 6.1 exhaust springs on all 3 of my Hemi's), 6.1 pushrods, and a 6.1 timing chain tensioner.
--Long tube headers can cause you a problem IF you live in a "smog nazi" state that does actual vehicle inspections. It'll fail because the exhaust is not stock. The stock exhaust logs are the absolute worst and choke the engine something terrible.
--Which tuner can be difficult to pick these days. As I said, you need to make sure it will allow modifications to the transmission shift schedules and torque management settings. IMO, this is a must, as adding 100 plus horsepower and not fixing the "soccer mom" shifting/slipping transmission is just asking for you to spend another $3000-4000 on a new transmission when you blow it up.
--In addition to the transmission improvements from a tuner, a Sonnax Line Pressure Booster raises the pressure which gives more clamping force on the clutches when applied and help firm up the shifts. Cost is about $50. A Transgo Shift Kit will also help firm up the shifts and improve the shift quality. Cost is also about $50.
--IMO, a cold air kit is a waste of $$$$. The stock system can be slightly modified to add a second air inlet, a good high flow filter element, and a Airaid Jr. intake tube will make the system work as good as needed for the engine displacement. Spending $300-400 for an aftermarket cai for a few top end horsepower and more noise is just not worth the $$$$.
--An underdrive crank pulley (I use 25% underdrive units on both my 5.7's) wont' make any more horsepower but it reduces the load from the engine driven accessories. They're supposedly worth about 10-15 horsepower savings.
--Maybe yes, maybe no, you can add Sultans of Spark (SOS) ignition coils which just about double the firing voltage to the spark plugs. This is one of the last things I did to mine, as horsepower gains are probably only about 10 or so.
--A bigger throttle body, IMO, is not worth the $$$. The stock one is more than adequate and, on mine with the 90 mm ones, about the only "for sure" thing I got was quite a bit better throttle response. Dyno tests have shown that a 90 mm TB on a normally aspirated 5.7 will lose about one or two horsepower.
--The same is true for bigger heads. If you go to forced induction or nitrous oxide injection, then the heads and the bigger throttle body will help gain a little more power. The same article quoted above said that porting and polishing the heads only netted about a 12 horsepower gain. I also milled .030 in. off mine which raised the compression ratio by about a half point. Total gain for milling and porting was about 25-30 horsepower.

--Add an SRT8 suspension, and it'll handle like it's on rails and a real hoot to drive.

These mods. should give you about a 120-130 horsepower gain. You can look at my signature below and see, pretty much, all I've done over the past 10 years or so. It's been fun, but I am about done modding all 3 of them unless something breaks.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

02-16-2020 03:54 PM

Johnr6874

Hemi Performance Upgrades

Hey guys, just wondering what you've done to pep up your Hemi's without any internal engine work? Mine has 149K miles on it and still runs pretty good, but I know it could use some help! What do you think of the DiabloSport Tuner/Programmer? Pros & Cons. All I have done since I bought the jeep is have that freaking huge muffler replced with a FlowMaster FX. But I'm looking to add a cold air system & tuner soon. Just want to know what would be the best for the money. Thanks!