Saturday, 12 December 2015

Here we come to the last in my collection of free Christmas
crochet patterns, a miniature Father Christmas that you can make into a tree
decoration, or add to a little festive scene. He’ll look sweet together with
the penguin and snowman patterns I posted previously, though I think the mouse
and the robin would look a bit giant next to him!

I hope you’ve been enjoying all the Christmas patterns, and
found a few little things that you can make at the last minute if necessary. If
you ever want to find them again, you’ll see a list of all my free patterns to
the right of this page, just click on any that you’re interested in.

Abbreviations:

ch
= chain

st
= stitch or stitches

sc
= single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc
= double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tog
= together

sc2tog
= decrease by working two sc together

bob
= bobble (see special stitch instructions)

BLO = work in back loop only

FO
= fasten off

Approximate
size: 6cm/2.5" tall.

General instructions:

Work
in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a
stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different
coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To
start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to ch
2, and work the appropriate number of sc into 1st ch. If you work
the sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

When changing from one colour of yarn to another work the stitch
before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new
colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through. When you use two
different colours on the same round, as you do for the face, carry the colour
you are not using behind the one you are working with.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise
indicated.

Special stitch
instructions:

2dc bob: bobble stitch for beard. YOH,
insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through stitch, YOH, pull through 2
loops, YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through stitch, YOH,
pull through 2 loops, YOH, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

You will need:

Small amounts
of double knitting or worsted weight yarn in red, white, black and skin colour.

A length of
cotton yarn to hang as a decoration.

Small amount
of stuffing.

3.5mm (E)
hook.

Tapestry
needle.

Pattern:

Start
with red yarn.

Round
1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1st ch - 5 st.

Round
2: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st - 6 st.Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in
next st] 3 times - 9 st.

Round
4: Sc in each st around – 9 st.

Round
5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times - 12 st.

Round
6: Sc in each st around – 12 st.

Change
to white yarn.

Round
7: Sc in each st around – 12 st.

Change
to skin colour yarn.

Round
8:BLO Sc in next 6
st, change to white yarn, sc in next
6 st – 12 st.

Round
9: Sc in next 6 st, change
to white yarn, sc in next 6 st – 12 st.

Round
10: Sc in next st, 2dc bob in each of next 4 st, sc in next st,
change to red yarn, sc in next 6 st –
12 st.

Round
11: Sc in each st around – 12 st.

Round
12: 2 sc in next 6 st, sc in next 6 st - 18 st.

Round
13: Sc in each st around – 18 st.

Change
to black yarn.

Round
14: Sc in each st around – 18 st.

Change
to red yarn.

Round
15 - 17: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 18 st.

Round
18: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.

Round
19:Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.

FO, leaving a length of yarn, and stuff. With the cotton
yarn, sew a loop at the top of the head if you want to hang as a decoration. Using
black yarn sew eyes and a little mouth on top of the beard. Finish stuffing and
sew up bottom neatly.

I'm a crochet pattern designer who loves creating cute amigurumi animals, and creatures and characters inspired by my geeky interests. I sell the patterns I design in my Etsy shop - www.lucyravenscar.etsy.com and I've had three patterns published in Inside Crochet magazine.
I'm known as Angry Angel on Craftster and I have free patterns available on Ravelry - www.ravelry.com/designers/lucy-ravenscar

Friday, 11 December 2015

Apparently, robins are associated with Christmas, at least
in Britain, because of Victorian postmen, who wore bright red jackets and were
nicknamed ‘Robins’. As they were a welcome sight, delivering the newly invented
Christmas cards, their feathered namesakes soon became popular in the designs
of the cards. Of course, robins are also delightful birds, easily visible and
seemingly friendly (especially if you’re doing some gardening, when they swoop
in and devour any bugs you’ve unearthed), who look particularly striking
against a snowy backdrop with their bright red breasts.

With this crochet pattern you can make yourself a tiny
little robin, only
about 3 cm/1.5" tall. Simple and quick to make, with minimal sewing, he’s
perfect to hang on your tree, or decorate anywhere else you like.

Abbreviations:

ch
= chain

st
= stitch or stitches

ss
= slipstitch

sc
= single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc
= double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tog
= together

sc2tog
= decrease by working two sc together

FO
= fasten off

General instructions:

Work
in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a
stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different
coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To
start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to ch
2, and work the appropriate number of sc into 1st ch. If you work
the sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

When changing from one colour of yarn to another work the stitch
before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new
colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through.

Round
4: Sc in next 8 st, change
to white yarn, sc in next 10 st –
18 st.

Change
to brown yarn

Round
5: Sc in each st around - 18 st.

Round
6: Sc in next st, [wing:
ss in next st, ch 4, miss ch next to hook, sc in next ch, dc in next ch, sc in
next ch, ss back into original st], sc in next st, [3dc bob] 3 times, sc in
next st, [wing: as before], sc in next 10 st
– 18 st.

Push bobbles from the inside out, they will form the head.

Round
7: Sc in each st around - 18 st.

Round
8: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 4 times, sc2tog, [tail: ss in next st, ch 4, miss ch next to hook, sc in next 3 ch,
ss back into original st], sc2tog, sc in next st – 12 st.

Round
9:Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.

FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Embroider the eyes using three short lines of black yarn for
each eye. Make the beak by sewing a French knot with the black yarn. To do
this, take the yarn out between the eyes and, with the needle held close to
this point, wrap the yarn three times around the needle. Sew back into the head
very close to the point where the yarn came out.

Using cotton yarn, sew a loop at the top of the head if you
want to hang your robin as a decoration. Finish stuffing and neatly sew up the
hole at the back. Don’t cut the brown yarn but use it to keep the wings in
place. Sew one or two stitches in the middle of each wing to attach it to the back.

I'm a crochet pattern designer who loves creating cute amigurumi animals, and creatures and characters inspired by my geeky interests. I sell the patterns I design in my Etsy shop - www.lucyravenscar.etsy.com and I've had three patterns published in Inside Crochet magazine.
I'm known as Angry Angel on Craftster and I have free patterns available on Ravelry - www.ravelry.com/designers/lucy-ravenscar

Thursday, 10 December 2015

Here's another, pretty simple Christmas crochet pattern, for a wee snowman in a woolly hat and scarf. Hang him on your tree, or use him as part of a Christmas display. As you can see, he looks great with the tiny penguin from yesterday.

Abbreviations:

ch
= chain

st
= stitch or stitches

sc
= single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

tog
= together

sc2tog
= decrease by working two sc together

BLO = work in back loop only

FO
= fasten off

Approximate
size: 5cm/2" tall.

General instructions:

Work
in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a
stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different
coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To
start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to ch
2, and work the appropriate number of sc into 1st ch. If you work
the sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

When changing from one colour of yarn to another work the stitch
before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new
colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise
indicated.

You will need:

Small amounts
of white yarn, and two colours of bright yarn for the hat and scarf, double
knitting or worsted weight.

FO, leaving a length of yarn, and stuff. With the cotton
yarn, sew a loop at the top of the head if you want to hang your snowman as a
decoration. Using black yarn sew eyes, mouth and three buttons down the front. Finish
stuffing and sew up bottom of snowman neatly.

Scarf:

Using one of the colours you used for the hat, ch 22 and FO.
Tie tightly around snowman’s neck with a double knot.

I'm a crochet pattern designer who loves creating cute amigurumi animals, and creatures and characters inspired by my geeky interests. I sell the patterns I design in my Etsy shop - www.lucyravenscar.etsy.com and I've had three patterns published in Inside Crochet magazine.
I'm known as Angry Angel on Craftster and I have free patterns available on Ravelry - www.ravelry.com/designers/lucy-ravenscar

Wednesday, 9 December 2015

Here's my next free Christmas pattern, to make a tiny crochet penguin, only about 3 cm/1.5" tall. This little fellow is perfect as a tree decoration, or you could use him in a Christmas scene or wreath, or add him to the wrapping on a present to make it extra special. He's made all in one go, with the wings crocheted as you go, so he's very quick and easy to create.

Abbreviations:

ch
= chain

st
= stitch or stitches

ss
= slipstitch

sc
= single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc
= double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tog
= together

sc2tog
= decrease by working two sc together

FO
= fasten off

General instructions:

Work
in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a
stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different
coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To
start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to ch
2, and work the appropriate number of sc into 1st ch. If you work
the sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Round
5: Sc in next 6 st, [wing:
ss in next st, ch 4, miss ch next to hook, sc in next 3 ch, ss back into
original st], sc in next st, [3dc bob] 2 times, sc in next st, [wing: as before], sc in next 6 st
– 18 st.

Push bobbles from the inside out, they will form the head.

Round
6: Sc in each st around - 18 st.

Round
7: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.

Round
8:Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.

FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Embroider the eyes using three short lines of white yarn for
each eye, then one or two even shorter lines of black in the centre. Make the
beak by sewing a French knot with the orange yarn. To do this, take the yarn
out between the eyes and, with the needle held close to this point, wrap the
yarn three times around the needle. Sew back into the head very close to the
point where the yarn came out. If you find this difficult, just sew two or
three short lines in the orange yarn.

Using cotton yarn, sew a loop at the top of the head if you
want to hang your penguin as a decoration. Finish stuffing and neatly sew up the
hole at the back.

I'm a crochet pattern designer who loves creating cute amigurumi animals, and creatures and characters inspired by my geeky interests. I sell the patterns I design in my Etsy shop - www.lucyravenscar.etsy.com and I've had three patterns published in Inside Crochet magazine.
I'm known as Angry Angel on Craftster and I have free patterns available on Ravelry - www.ravelry.com/designers/lucy-ravenscar

Tuesday, 8 December 2015

My next free pattern for Christmas is a slight variation on my Little Kissing Mice pattern, so you can make a cute little mouse with a Christmassy red and green stripy sweater. You can add a loop so you can hang it on your Christmas tree, give it as a sweet little stocking filler, or fill it with catnip as a present for your cat.

Abbreviations:

ch
= chain

st
= stitch or stitches

ss
= slipstitch

sc
= single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc
= double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tog
= together

sc2tog
= decrease by working two sc together

FLO = work in front loop only

FO
= fasten off

Approximate
size: 5cm/2" long without tail.

General instructions:

Work
in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a
stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different
coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To
start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to ch
2, and work the appropriate number of sc into 1st ch. If you work
the sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

When changing from one colour of yarn to another work the stitch
before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new
colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through.

Round
7: Sc in next 6 st, [ear,
in FLO of next st: ss, ch 2, 5 dc, ch 2, ss], sc in next 3 st, [ear as before], sc in next st – 12 st
(counting each ear as one st).

Round
8: Sc in each st around, working into the back loop behind
each ear – 12 st.

Stuff head and use black yarn to sew eyes.

Change
to first yarn colour for body.

Round
9: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6 st –
15 st.

Round
10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 3 times – 18 st.

Change
to second yarn colour for body.

Round
11: Sc in each st around – 18 st.

Change
to first yarn colour for body.

Round
12: [Sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times
– 21 st.

Change
to second yarn colour for body.

Round
13: Sc in each st around – 21 st.

Change
to first yarn colour for body.

Round
14 - 15: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 21 st.

Change
to natural fur colour yarn.

Round
16: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times, sc2tog, sc in next 2 st, [tail: ss in next st, ch 20, miss ch
next to hook, ss 19, ss back into original st], sc in next 2 st – 18 st.

Round
17:Sc2tog 2 times, sc in next 6 st, sc2tog 4
times – 12 st.

Round
18:Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.

FO, leaving a length of yarn. Using cotton yarn, sew a loop
behind the head if you want to hang your mouse as a decoration. Finish stuffing
and sew up bottom of mouse neatly - if you stuff the body well it will sit up nicely.Another simple idea for a little tree decoration is to make one of my Little Teddies using white yarn and give it a red scarf.

For more Christmas crochet ideas, I also have a Chubby Gnome pattern in my Etsy shop which includes instructions to make these Christmas characters - a cute little Santa and Elf.

If you especially love mice and would like to make some slightly larger ones, try my Wee Mousie pattern.

Keep an eye out here and on my Facebook page as I'll be posting four totally new mini Christmas patterns.

I'm a crochet pattern designer who loves creating cute amigurumi animals, and creatures and characters inspired by my geeky interests. I sell the patterns I design in my Etsy shop - www.lucyravenscar.etsy.com and I've had three patterns published in Inside Crochet magazine.
I'm known as Angry Angel on Craftster and I have free patterns available on Ravelry - www.ravelry.com/designers/lucy-ravenscar

Sunday, 6 December 2015

I've been getting a few requests recently asking about the yarn I used to make the 12 patterns in my Star Wars book, so here are all the details. I live in the UK, so that's where I get all my yarn from. I use double knitting (DK) weight yarn, equivalent to 3:light weight in the US, and 8 ply in Australia/NZ - there's a yarn thickness guide on Ravelry which is very helpful.

If you can't get hold of the yarns listed below, you can at least look at them in an online store such as Wool Warehouse or LoveCrochet, which might help you find equivalents closer to home. I used mostly Hayfield Bonus DK, including Black (965) and White (961) for many of the characters. Here's the list of the yarn used for each character individually, not including black and white yarn:

Yoda:
(note, the green I used is not available anymore, these are possible
alternatives) Paintbox Yarns simply DK, Slate Green or Hayfield Bonus DK, Grass (825), Chocolate Brown (947), Oatmeal
(964) or Hayfield DK with wool, Sand (091)I know that seems like an awful lot of different yarns, but a lot of them are repeated for different characters, and I used slightly different tones of yarn where you could use the same one if you want to economise, so here are the main colours of yarn you need:Pale Green for Yoda: Hayfield Bonus DK, Grass (825)

Two shades of grey used for many of the characters, you could just use one of them: Dark Grey Mix (790), Light Grey Mix (814)Light Beige for Yoda's robe and Wicket's feet: Oatmeal (964) or Hayfield DK with wool, Sand (091)Rust Brown for Wicket's hood and Chewy's bandolier: Hayfield Bonus DK Copper (843) - similar to Robin DK Rust (26) used for Boba Fett so could use either.Royal Blue for R2-D2: Hayfield Bonus DK, Royal (979)Dark Blue for Han's trousers: Hayfield Bonus DK, Pine (761)Cream for Han's shirt, could substitute white: Hayfield Bonus DK, Cream (812)

Red for Boba Fett's helmet, can be used for side of Han's trousers and Leia's lips: Hayfield Bonus DK, Rustic Red (891) Then there are a few yarns that you only need a very small amount of, such as the variegated brown yarn for C-3PO's middle (Robin Paintbox DK, Leopardskin (197)), the dark yellow on Boba Fett's costume (Hayfield Bonus DK, Pumpkin (766)), the bright red and greens used for the buttons on Darth Vader and his and Luke's lightsabers.I hope that list is some help, just ask if you have any questions.****New information, March 2017****

Now that Star Wars Even More Crochet is out, here are all the yarns I used for the second set of characters (again, not including black and white):

I'm a crochet pattern designer who loves creating cute amigurumi animals, and creatures and characters inspired by my geeky interests. I sell the patterns I design in my Etsy shop - www.lucyravenscar.etsy.com and I've had three patterns published in Inside Crochet magazine.
I'm known as Angry Angel on Craftster and I have free patterns available on Ravelry - www.ravelry.com/designers/lucy-ravenscar

Saturday, 5 December 2015

When my children were young and I was decorating the house for Christmas, I was happy with the Christmas tree, but I felt that I needed something up high, to really fill the room. I tried paper streamers, but they always broke and didn't last from year to year. I think I looked for crochet bunting patterns, but they were too complex for the time I had to get something done, involving making lots of small items and then joining them together. So, I came up with this very simple, very quick bunting with streamers hanging from it, in red and green, nice festive colours. You can make it any length you like, change the length of the streamers, and use whatever colours fit in with your Christmas colour scheme. Pale blue and white would give a nice frosty look, especially if you used yarn with a sparkle in it. It's easy to store and it will look great when you bring it out each year.

Crochet
Streamer Bunting

You will need:

Double
knitting weight yarn (cheap acrylic is fine) in two colours. How much you'll
need will depend on how long you make it, but 100g ball of each should get you
quite a long way.

6mm hook (US
J/10)

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

Method:

Work 2
strands together to start.

Ch 48

* Using only
1 strand ch 13, turn.

2 dc in 4th ch from hook, 4 dc in next 9 ch.

Join back
into the double strand by working a slipstitch with both strands.

Ch 15 using both strands*

Work from *
to *, alternating which colour you use to form the spiral, as many times as
necessary to fit your room.

Ch 48,
Fasten off.

The lengths
of chain at the beginning and end are long enough to make loops to go round the
end of curtain poles (which is how I secure them), or tie around whatever is
handy.

I also made some with shorter streamers (see above), to do that just substitute the instructions below into the main pattern.

* Using only 1 strand ch 10, turn.

2 dc in 4th ch from hook, 4 dc in next 6 ch.The bunting with the longer streamers is about 17' long, and the one with the shorter streamers is about 31" long. It's a while since I made them, but I think I used about one 100g ball of each colour for each length of bunting.

I'm a crochet pattern designer who loves creating cute amigurumi animals, and creatures and characters inspired by my geeky interests. I sell the patterns I design in my Etsy shop - www.lucyravenscar.etsy.com and I've had three patterns published in Inside Crochet magazine.
I'm known as Angry Angel on Craftster and I have free patterns available on Ravelry - www.ravelry.com/designers/lucy-ravenscar

About Me

I'm a crochet pattern designer who loves creating cute amigurumi animals, and creatures and characters inspired by my geeky interests. I sell the patterns I design in my Etsy shop - www.lucyravenscar.etsy.com and I've had three patterns published in Inside Crochet magazine.
I'm known as Angry Angel on Craftster and I have free patterns available on Ravelry - www.ravelry.com/designers/lucy-ravenscar