Buca Restaurant Review

: Buca’s main dining room, complete with soaring three-story-high ceilings, exposed raw brick and iron beams, makes a dramatically hip statement. The smaller, more intimate, romantic wine bar is tucked down a hallway past the glass-enclosed meat-curing area. Dishes based on fresh market seasonal produce change constantly: daily menus are printed and date-stamped each morning. Always included are house-cured meats, such as sausages and prosciuttini, Tamshire pork that's rubbed with fennel and aged for 20 weeks. Ravioli comes with braised goose, roasted squash and a hazelnut crackle, while sea bass, served whole, is flavored with olives and preserved lemon. Meat lovers will enjoy the suckling pig with polenta, lamb loin or veal tenderloin. That said, the restaurant also features an admirable list of Roman-style pizzas, with toppings ranging from traditional funghi to more exotic octopus. Save room for the desserts and gelato --- the star of the show is crispy cannoli, rolled around dark chocolate cream. The Italian wine list has over 250 well-chosen labels; there is a first-rate offering of grappa as well.