Here is an idea for those that can use a dual drop receiver. Bikes can ride between the PC and the ‘toad’. During travel they are out of the wind and when you get to the camp ground they are out of the way but yet easy to get.

A couple very important items. MAKE SURE THERE IS ENOUGH ROOM BETWEEN THE HOOD OF THE ‘TOAD’, THE TOW BAR AND THE BIKE RACK. Double check your turning radius to make sure there are no problems. It could turn out to be very expensive if any two were to meet during a turn!!!!!

I did want to share that having the bike rack attached to the toad instead of the motor home, has some advantages. One is that the rear storage compartment of the PC is more easily accessible. The other is that we most often leave the motor home in the camp ground and drive the toad far to another location to start our bike ride.

Rear hitches vary per vehicle (class-I, II, III), but in the case with our toad, Available was a strong class-III 3500 pound rear hitch. It cost me $125 shipped to the house. I mounted it in a half hour and utilize it well for the bike rack. Needless to say, this is also beneficial at home. When we want to bike ride along Chicago's lake front or other bike trail, we take the toad with bikes to the trail head. The PC stays home. Also, off-season the insurance on the PC is in suspense rendering it uninsured to drive.

If a rear hitch can be installed on your toad, I would first consider that. Our first toad was a little 2 seat sports car which we could not get a rear hitch for. In that case, Barry-Sue's twin receiver idea would be a great way to bring the bikes on trips.

The car we used to own was a 1998 Grand Prix. Only class-I and class-II hitches were available for that car. I installed a class-II for the bike rack which was a wise move. The stronger the better when it comes to bikes hanging out there.

I guess we have the best of both worlds. We find the bikes behind the PC much easier to use then when they were behind the toad. The back storage compartment is very accessible with the dual receiver. If we want to take the bikes with us when we use the toad we just move the bike rack to the toad. We like keeping them behind the PC at the campgrounds and do not have to take the bikes with us everytime we go somewhere in the toad.

During travel, there is alot less wind resistance with the bikes behind the PC. It is great storage for them and they are not sitting out in the open when we are at a campground. Since we have used both methods we can honestly say "for us" we prefer them behind the PC.

pyrthkr

Scott at Cliff's Welding suggested I try out my existing bike rack (Swagman 3 bike hanger) first since the upper hitch will be extended ~6" and may allow for opening that back storage door. Currently, with only the bike rack on the hitch, I can only open the door just enough to get the cord & hose out for hook up (unless I take the bikes off). We'll see and report back.

We received our dual hitch extention today from Harbour Freight. Looks like it raises high enough to clear the toad. Great sale price at $24.88.

George

I use a stainless steel foldable 2 bike rack from front of metro busses in salvage yard adapt it to front trailer hitch receiver on my ford chassis. the racks very minimal cost [$50.} compared to what bus company pays [$1500.] and put new ones on each new bus

Yes, I have no problem getting the toad disconnected and the tow bar in the storage position without removing the bikes. It might cause me to bend down a little further but in now way is it difficult to do. I never take the bike rack off during our travels unless I want to put it on the car if we are going to bike somewhere away from the campground.

I also can get into the back storage without any issues.

Barry

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Bruce

Barry,Wow, I'd like to be able to stow the tow bar as you do. My Roadmaster tow bar "arms" must be lifted and then folded to the side after the toad is disconnected. My Saris bike rack is dual track like your rack, and it blocks my attempts to deploy or stow the tow bar when the rack is attached to the PC.Your tow bar must operate differently, or I don't understand my options with mine.Does this description make sense to you? Maybe my solution is to buy a tow bar like yours.Thanks for your help on this.Bruce

If your Roadmaster tow bar is like ours (a Falcon-II), you can disconnect to leave that one bar attached to the tow vehicle and fold the remaining two arms horizontally against the PC. That is how it is intended to be stored, using the included on-RV storage bag. but I never do that because this method is easiest to me. If I need to drive the PC on a real road, then I remove the bar altogether. But most often I only need to drive around the campsite or to the camp ground dump station. I drive slow with the triangle pivoted to one side because it will fall either left or right. I would never drive on a real road with the tow bar like this.

Pivoting right, the bar gets in the way of opening the storage compartment. Pivoting left takes a little care as not to bang into the spare tire cover. It sounds bad but really is nothing. Keeping the triangle together makes hooking and unhooking real fast and easy. With Irene's assistance, we can unhook in 45 seconds, re-hook in about 3 to 4 minutes when considering the safety stuff. A rare oops at a gas station and it becomes valuable information.

Regarding the bike rack, without a tow vehicle, the bike rack goes right into the PC hitch. When towing, we ended up mounting a class-III hitch on our tow vehicle, a Jeep Liberty and let it carry the bikes. That worked out quite well because we'll drive the Liberty to where we want to start riding our bikes. That also reduces the weight on the PC, the tongue weight, and maintains easy access to the rear compartment which is handy when leaving the camp ground for the final time while all hooked up, I need to get inside there for the fresh water hose. Yes I could store the water hose elsewhere....