How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution

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Fallen Cannabis Warrior

The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.

This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones

At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.

It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.

"Marijuana Botany" by Robert Connell Clarke
(unfortunately missing the appendices)

It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.

Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.

Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.

For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:

Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous.

Have fun experimenting with this technique. Use it responsibly. There are a few good threads here at CW that go into the pros and cons of transsexual agents and feminized seeds. Read them. And most importantly, use STS with quality F1 strains developed by professional breeders for the most consistent results.

A huge thanks to Fet from Spice Brothers Seeds for his help and advice in using this technique. I simply brought together available information from previous posts and tried my own recipe. I'm thrilled to share the results. Future tests will be done to adjust the formula so the molar ratios of the chemicals are correct, as specified by Gobgoober (thanks, Gob) but the formula posted here is completely effective.

New Member

I don't know about the safety sheet but I was reading about that Sodium compound you just mentioned and they said it was an eye and lung irritant, in a way that they advise laboratory gear (mask, gloves, apron, goggles). Doesn't sound that safe to me.

If you google it they have the formula, but after reviewing it, this doesn't sound like something you want to do for yourself, not at least a home grower.

New Member

You should see the msds for a simple stainless steel aerosol cleaner. Those are -labeled- to cause genetic birth defects. Average person wouldn't think twice about using it just like windex.

They say wear gloves/apron/eye protection because, basically, it's an irritant. If it gets on your hands, its not gonna moisturize them, thats for sure, so the creators of the msds sheets have to say, "wear protction here" because if they don't they're liable.

Supposed to use all that stuff when you use h2o2 and even household bleach.

New Member

New Member

Another question. Why do you use so much sodium thiosulfate in preparing your stock? With .5g of silver nitrate, only .23g should be needed to convert all of the silver salt. Do you actually want almost 10 times as much thiosulfate as silver?

Another one: If you change the sex of the female a few weeks into flowering, will it have both flowers and seed itself or are the Feminized seeds that are mentioned only from other female plants that have been pollinated by this F to M plant?

New Member

Swim sprayed a top notch bag seed female that was about 5 weeks old, 2 weeks into 12 hr. It Hermed out and showed first sign of flowers at just over 2 weeks after the treatment and the first male flowers bursted pollen at about 3 weeks.. Swim said there was a major stun of growth but not too much yellowing. Swim said the treated(Hermed)plant is showing some premature seed pods at just over 3 weeks. The other females untreated females have just been pollinated by feminized pollen.. (hopefully!)

Swim will hopefully have seeds from the treated plant (Hermo) and other selected Females in 3-5 weeks.. Swim said he will let us know what happens with these seeds but would really like to hear more on this subject...

New Member

It self pollinates... in other words you're simply making hermies.

Growers for years have tried to figure out how to get feminised beans, from playing with light schedules to giving the plants a beating. All to stress the plant into herm'ing. apparently the silver is meant to do a good job.

It's simply for selfing clone only's to continue the genetics. I've got a clone only myself through this manner, although i didn't do the herm, i just got given a few seeds.

But here is my question: If Swim decides to use the selfed seeds from a Clone Only or the supposed feminized seeds from the other Females the flipped plant pollinated, will they have Hermie traits, be triggers or be good feminized seeds?

New Member

I believe u can definately use the sts hermie to pollenate another female, not just self seeding. I don't know if I'm confused about my interpretation of their post or they are mistaken, but the best way to go I would think would be to use the hermie to seed another female, I think it would work better and be less likely to carry the hermie trait. All of my feminized seeds (commercial seedbanks, not homemade) have resulted in that trait, I've had all my success with clones i've recieved. So with that in mind I want to try this, with plants with zero hermie tendencies, but just think maybe sticking with good old fashion boy/girl breeding might be best. I'd really like to hear some first hand reports.

I've been into the bubblehash sorry if I'm not making sense, i did try though.

New Member

I LIKED THE STS INFORMATION, HOWEVER I WANT TO PURCHASE THE PRODUCT OFF THE SHELF, READY TO USE. IM NOT INTERESTED IN TRYING TO ORDER THE CHEMICALS AND MAKE THE MIX. CAN ANYONE HELP ME!!! I'VE BEEN SEARCHING FOR DAYS ON THE NET AND MY FINGERS ARE SORE FROM THE KEYBOARD. THERE WAS A COMPANY IN CALIFORNIA BUT NO LONGER. I CONTACTED HIGH TIMES AND LA FEMME BUT NOTHING YET. IF ANYONE OUT THERE KNOWS WHERE I CAN GET THE FINISHED PRODUCT, PLEASE HELP IM TIRED OF MALES TAKING UP PRECIOUS SPACE.

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