[quote author=db_audio link=1133408581/0#0 date=1133404981]OK, how about this...I have 6-JBL GT150 15's. I wanna built the wo and use them if possible...3 enclosures and use 6 subs. OR i huge wo and use 3 per side. any suggestions... thanks DAN [/quote]

i built a housewrecker with older jbl 15s' it worked very well.seriously good bass and tons of it.

I could give them...but then again...JBL would get pissed and i don't think that they would like it too much!

I should be done with to WO this coming wed! I cant wait. From what you guys are telling me, my expedition is gonna come alive! ill keep you posted. I guess my main reason for asking about the 15's is I wanna get them playing and of course get them stuply loud...(I really have 12) - but was only gonna use only 6 if you guys had any suggestions about using them in a WO.

thanks again it gets bouring around here at times 'cause their is no one around here that comes close to having the knowledge that you do!

you hit the nail right on the head. that is exactly what i was wanting...a scaled up version of a WO...maybe 4 isobaric? OR we could get stupid with it and do an 8-15 WO (4 per side iso)...i dont know about you but im not scared of getting a little sawdust on me and try something...i just need a little help getting started!

My only problem with a four 15" WO is that I don't have a fork lift anymore. I used to have nothing but fun stacking my 350 lb folded horns up. Those were younger and more energetic days.

Last week I set my 2 iso-loaded 10" WOs up in a club for some friends and everyone (including me, a fairly old, salty crusted, PA tech type who has seen everything, I thought) was very impressed. It was the first time I actually heard them with live music. They had an old Peavey 400W/channel amp and the WOs really sound powerful sitting on the floor in a small club (about 350 seats).

This afternoon I'll be setting them up in a place more than 4 times larger. Since it is Jack's favorite "sounding" gig spot, I'm calling tonight the WO/Jack Acid Test. They will still have way more BASS than ever before, so I expect everything to be "all good". So far, I am very pleased with the 10" WO.

With 15"ers the size will be a concern. I have read about someone planning a 48" WO project using 15" drivers, but never a follow-up thread. I know scaling all 3 dimensions for a 15" comes out about 54" X 54" X 20", but I don't know if it's necessary to scale in 3 dimensions for a great sounding box. My plans, in the spring, are to build a set of Imperials and a 48" X 48" X 18" WO using a surplus of JBL E140s I have laying around from the old days. As yet, I've not done it.

My point is that you are sort of on your own, but with an audience of many "Monday morning armchair quarterbacks" ready to tell you what to do. I hope it all happens soon so we can start some history here.

lol, you guys i dont know what it is, my experiences so far with building steves desighns are that they work, very well, all of them.i wanted good quality bass and loud, and i got it.but dirt reading some of your VAST experience leads me to believe you are in a leauge of your own. how many people have had the oppertunity to play with the rigs you have and over the period of time?..not many i bet. im sure when you move from 2 watts in a room to 20,000 in an arena things must change? everybodys enthusiam for the 'excess' when it comes to bass, has obviously rubbed off on me- "thanks" . im 42 next year and i have built 6 subwoofers this year and an i.b install in my car if you guys dont stop talking about insane bass rigs that make your neibour wanna vomit when it hits low and makes yer beer froth over as you walk by the sub, im going to be unable to resist building more next year, and im really not sure my wife can take it? i dont post as often nowdays cos both my in door and in car systems satisfy for now? but i frequently read all your posts and laugh and drool and wonder ??? thanks to all of you bassheads for not leaving me out there....here, on my own..................... i wonder what 10,000 real watts on a pair of some of these modern subs (3,4,5000wrms capable) in a modded wo would feel like? or a hw i would love to have a sub make me vomit @20 hz, seriously i might not wanna do it twice but id love to feel that much pressure that low

Your original statement still stands as good advice 60.I have taken on the same stand, on your first build anyway!DD has loads more experience than I and I am sure keeps up on his stuff. I mean what else has he to do during the day ( thats a joke) After I screwed up steves subs I took your advice 60 and life improved to the point where I started modding after I knew what it was supposed to do.DD keeps my head on my shoulders and helped me from making some time consuming mistakes that would have frustrated the heck out of me.

both you guys are from differant worlds but none the less, your rocks in mine.

oh yaSince when is your present car system based on steves design 60....... thats all you!

I have an I.B. in my wagon and it sounds awsome but it just does not get loud enough for the times a guy likes it loud.

Any other sub takes up way too much room to equal it in SQ and low extention and that includes Decwares.

It is built into the rear well of the station wagon. after my alpines were stolen I did not want my system out for people to see.I recessed an ADS sub plate and covered it with material to stealth it. you would never know it was there. all my other crossovers and amps were recessed into the same well as well.

you have an expedition right, you wanna slam 3 WOs with 15 in there, without the back seats I bet you can do it.

What I would do first is to measure how wide the back is at the narrowest points, so between the wheel-wells. Whatever that measurement is, make the WOs that measurement, Y, YxY x 19 or so. then take the 3 WOs and lay them at angles pointed towards the front or back, whichever is louder.

Otherwise, set the WOs up in a triangle, one on bottom and the other two tilted on top. I don't know if you will have the heighth though.

I drew some crappy pictures, although my mastery of Paint is Increaseing ten-fold daily.

If you go the route of angleing them towards the fron or back, try to angle them as much as possible, or as close to flat. This will give you more air path above them, although you might wanna try different angles cause that could effect performance.

GEX...you know what me and my wife were thinkin about how to port it. we came up with very close to what the pics show...but...im like naw that couldnt work because of the phase difference...but now you show pics and i guess it does work...

i bought my wifey a new expedition last week and im keeping her old one! which has a ton of gear in it already! i had 9 of the 15's in it (LOUD) but took it out 'cause we WERE gonna trade it...we didnt! YEAH!

my point is i wanna make this thing just stupid loud...louder than the 9 i just took out. Im hoping that the Wo is the ticket!

if i remember correctly my 9 15 box is around 50W X 33H X 30L

I figured i could have them firing toward the roof, they might load off the roof pretty good...just thinking.

from what I ahve read so far on the porting of the WO is it is good for SPL only.And I agree on the phasing and 60's view of the whole thing.but........ I think its possible to make it close to the SQ with enough trial and error ( mostly error )

Sometimes the science of it is not the whole story. also lack of funds makes a person try the silliest things....

I just bought an plate Amp today for really cheap out of the box. it even came complete with a sub and box. Cheap box, cheap DVC sub. decent 100 watt plate amp. cheaper buying the whole thing than just the plate amp.

If your thinking stupid loud and stupid good don't take the chance on modifications. you have the area and the power to make the WO put out.If you do the J_Rock tilted sub idea I would fire them off the roof also, but tilt them toward the back on your first trial run.

Excess is fun but rarely practical. But what kinda fun is practical?Hey! that could be my new tag line

if you measure the distance from the drive to the port opening in the horn mouth you get 1/4 the wavelength of the highest freuency total wave addition occours at.

So you measure, then tune the box to that frequency. Not only making the front and back waves add, but also oncreasing efficiency at the frequency at and around which they add. If you were gonna go real big you could aim to tune the entire thing at your vehicles transfer fucntion frequency to get even more bass.

I would suggest just 3 WOs though for sure. port them if you can figure out the math and what not otherwise just let them sealed.

My WO has increased my 2 drivers rated sensitivity by 19db at least. (Drivers max power = 2^[X]; X x 3 = Driver's proposed SPL at max Wattage. My wo puts out 19 db more than that SPL at half volume on the dial. No way to test further...)

If you could give me the width of you epedition I could figure out the WO chamber's and the original designs's ported frequency. and then design the 6th order BP with smae chambers and front port to create what would be the supposed correct port.

ok but doesnt the port need to be tune approx 5-10hz highter so that they dont cancel...or would you have to have the ported camber 1/16 wavelength if you have 1/4 coming from the mouth? im just thinking of distance and the timing...i havnt done the math yet.

hold the thought bout port frequency, I just remembered something. SO I gotta check something else.

Transfer function is kinda like your entire car's resonant frequency. The problem is that as power goes up the cars resonant frequency goes up too, hence you get a function of resonant frequency vs. power output. Kinda like this:

With my subs barely playing say at 45 hz, my car rattles like all hell and there is a noticeable increase in output going from 35 to 50 at 45 hz. My car resonantes there at 50 w or whatever. If I crank my WO all of a sudden my car doesn't resonant at 45 as much, the noticeable uncrease is at 55hz.

At least its something like that. I normally say resonant frequency of the vehicle but I get slack from a different forum for saying that...

determining the frequency to port it at will be math stuff, but you defineatly wanna figure out when the waves add completely and tune to that frequency. In normal 6th order BP you tune the 2 chambers 5-10 hz apart to get a large peak between the two tuning points, however if you can figure out exactly the frequency that both outputs(front and back of cone) sum you can then une to that frequency.

the problem is with the horn/port thing. I am not sure exactly how it works, seeing as how it is flared port.

There are people on another forum I am talking to who actually know how to model exponential ports so I am talkign to them.

I figured out the chambers rough sizes though for a scaled up to 50 inch square. the rear chamber(sealed) is 393.75 square inches and the front chamber is 312 square inches. thats square so whatever the heighth is minus driver displacement...