Beat the Heat

Recipes and tips for icebox dessertsText by Lauren Salkeld; recipes by Lauren Chattman

H
ot weather is ideal for all kinds of activities  swimming, suntanning, picnics  but it makes for less-than-desirable baking conditions. No matter how much you want to make dessert, just thinking about turning on the oven can induce perspiration. Thankfully, there's an easy solution: icebox desserts, which come in a variety of styles, from fresh fruit trifles to no-bake cheesecakes to ice cream terrines. Instead of using the oven, icebox desserts are finished in the refrigerator or freezer and rely on key ingredients such as whipped cream and gelatin. Sure, a few varieties do require that the oven be turned on, but only for a few minutes to bake the cookie crust, which is so yummy it's well worth the momentary heat.

These desserts also have an inherent flexibility. Because nothing is actually baked, you have the freedom to change ingredients and customize your creations. A strawberry dessert, for instance, can just as easily be a blueberry one. Cookie crusts, too, are adaptable. If the recipe calls for graham crackers, try ginger snaps or chocolate wafers. You can also experiment by using different ice cream and sorbet flavors.

If anyone is an expert on icebox desserts, it is Lauren Chattman. She's written three cookbooks on the subject: Icebox Desserts, Icebox Cakes, and Icebox Pies. Below, Chattman shares five of her recipes and provides tips for sweet icebox success.

Icebox Desserts

Many icebox desserts, including Chattman's Pop Art Raspberry Icebox Cake, are made with a whipped-cream base. For best results, she advises that the cream, bowl, and beaters are well chilled before whipping. To avoid overwhipping the creamit can quickly separate and get lumpykeep a close eye on the mixer and finish whipping the cream by hand.

Low and Slow

Other icebox treats, like the Strawberries and Cream Icebox Cake, are made with a pastry-cream base. While pastry cream isn't difficult, it can be a little tricky. Chattman's advice is to "cook the pastry cream slowly over a low flame and whisk constantly to prevent lumps and sticking." If any does stick to the pan, "Don't scrape it outit will only taste overcooked, and there's more than enough filling."

Dissolve First, Melt Second

Gelatin is a flavorless, colorless powder used to stabilize desserts such as the Lavender Honey and Yogurt Pie. The key is to first soften gelatin in cold waterlet it sit a minute or two until completely dissolvedthen heat it over a pot of simmering water (this last step can be skipped if the gelatin is being combined with hot ingredients). For this particular pie, Chattman advises using whole-milk yogurt because low-fat and nonfat varieties are watery and not as flavorful. She also suggests trying a thicker, Greek-style yogurt for extra richness.

Soften With Caution

Chattman's Lemon and Blueberry Ice Cream Terrine and other ice creambased desserts require softened ice cream. According to Chattman, the best way to soften it is to simply let it sit on the countertop for 5 to 15 minutes, checking it every 5 minutes. When ice cream is rock hard, Chattman turns to the microwave: "It heats from the inside out, so it's really great." The timing depends on the power of your microwave, but try putting the ice cream in for 5- to 10-second intervals until the center softens up.

Take It Easy

Chattman calls her Coconut Cheesecake with Mango Sauce a "no-bake, no-fail cheesecake." For easier mixing, she always uses room-temperature cream cheese. Let it sit on the kitchen counter for 30 minutes to an hour or cut it into 1-inch pieces to speed up the softening process. She also advises sticking to full-fat cream cheesethe low-fat version won't provide the same flavor.