A PILGRIMAGE TO AMERNATH
Great was our relief to learn that it was
only a pack pony that had died.
No doubt the owner felt badly enough,
as it was half his living, and we were
sorry for his loss; but our sympathy
would have been greater had he treated
the animal with more care. The second
day out from Pahlgam on this trip we
learned to our dismay that no food had
been brought for the horses, although
money was given for the purpose before
we left.
The syces were even too lazy much of
the time to lead the animals to water be
fore we started in the mornings, trust
ing to luck that we would let them drink
at the first running stream. They rarely
troubled to relieve the animals of their
saddles after a hard day's journey, until
they were made to do so, sometimes by
no gentle means. So long has the Kash
miri been accustomed to rough treatment
that he pays little attention to a quiet
command, if it happens to be contrary to
his own desires.
How those ponies ever lived for four
days on the short grass, most of it dry
at that time of year, will always be a
mystery.
At Tanin, on the way back, the first
point from which a bazaar was accessi
ble, the servants were told that they could
have no food until some had been bought
for the horses, and that they should be
fed in our presence. Knowing that we
were very angry and fearing that their
baksheesh might be lessened, they walked
two extra miles and brought back in tri
umph a bag of ground grain. This was
mixed with water and rolled into cakes.
Never shall I forget the sight that fol
lowed. The ponies were lined up on
the grass in the light of our camp fire,
with the portion of food for each in front
of it, and we stood guard until the last
morsel had disappeared, thus satisfying
ourselves that the starved little beasts
had had one proper meal, and that it had
not been stolen by their keepers.
After the trip was over, the man who
lost his pony was paid for it. We re
membered what Westerners are too
prone to forget, that these Eastern serv
ants are just grown-up children, with
about the same amount of judgment and
foresight. We dared give no intimation
beforehand of our intentions, however,
or more casualties among the pack ani
mals would have followed.
In a roundabout way we learned from
the head syce that a good pack pony was
worth about four sheep; but he added
scornfully, "This one was old and ready
to die; two sheep would buy it."
As we had paid Rs. 2-8-0 for a sheep,
we decided Rs. 5/- would be sufficient
compensation. Judging from the smiles
of pleasure with which this sum (equiva
lent to $1.6o) was received, our valua
tion was correct. At any rate, the be
reaved owner went away satisfied, which
is rare with that class in India.
THE LAST FIVE MILES TO AMERNATH
From Punjitarni to Amernath is five
miles, the last three of which must be
traveled on foot. For the first two miles
the path winds around the hillside, beside
the stream we had crossed to reach our
camp.
As we looked up we could see a num
ber of snow-bridges, and our way led
past the spot where one had been carried
away. The wall to our right still re
mained intact, a perpendicular surface,
like purest marble, 30 feet high. Blue
flowers very like our hepaticas grew here
and there along the roadside.
Presently the path became too steep for
our ponies, and we left them on the lower
slope of the hill, to be happy with what
grass they could find, until our return.
Now it was our turn to work, for our
winding path could be traced up the al
most perpendicular side of this spur,
more than 500 feet to the top.
I had to take the climb in short stages,
with many rests, on account of the fear
ful pumping of my heart. To none of
the party was it play, at 13,ooo feet.
From the top, looking back, was a mag
nificent pile of mountains, the central one
a sharp ridge, descending at each side in
long, bare, rocky slopes, while to the left
and right rose snow-capped peaks.
The path followed the hill to the right
for some time, then that to the left across
snow-fields, over loose stones, among
which the trail was almost lost, and
finally up the last steep ascent over rock
masses to the entrance of the cave
The snow-fields interested us greatly
They were masses of snow, drifted in
from the winter storms, over the streams.
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