I bought a DR650 that the PO said the brakes were new, "Just put them on prior to the previous ride". Well I don't know how long the previous ride was but they were toast. ie. The PO word might not mean anything.
Regardless, at least you can fix the problem easy.

Earlier this year tried the Jardines RT4 exhaust on the bike but was unhappy with the volume even with the quiet insert. Rode it one time then took it off and put the stock unit back on. Had a chance this weekend to look at it with the idea of making it quieter. Took one steel wool pad and pushed it into the spark arrestor then took multiple pieces of fine mesh wire fencing and filled the rest and used it to hold the steel wool in place. Sound is now acceptable to me, much deeper than the stock but not loud. Jetting seems spot on with the .22 cent mod. I tried it with three steel wool pads but that was too much, backed up sounding, tried two but one was the magic number. Will keep checking to see if the steel wool holds together or not. With the new exhaust and the Li-ion battery you deduct about 17 pounds from the pig. Now I need to do my part and deduct 17 pounds from me!

While the clutch is pretty robust on the KLR it can get glazed/burned if abused too much. If your level adjustment suddenly changes while slipping its time to back off...

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My throttle/speed control issues are fortunately not the clutch. It's the trail. And the carb. And the operator. The spruce/fir duff changes texture constantly and the bike floats on parts then sinks into a sponge that takes a good bit of power. And it's all covered in needles and leaves so it's impossible to tell what kind of power is needed just ahead.

At the same time the exhaust was popping a bit on closed throttle (on the road) so I richened up the idle mixture.

EDIT: I'm not sure why the spruce/fir duff is more difficult for me than a rocky, murky water crossing. For water I can usually maintain the same moderate pace no matter what I hit below the surface. For duff, bogging in a hole and powering out then flings me forward. Both situations are about unseen obstacles. The 16t countersprocket isn't a problem on rocks. It's great on the highway. I'll see how the trail firms up in the next month or so.

16/45, because I couldn't get a 46. It's a little too tall, but not bad. At least it's an easy swap to a 14t. I tried 16/43 once before, and thought it a complete waste of time.

The taller gearing might be okay with clubman bars, or even a Triumph Euro bend, but the aerodynamic profile of this bike is all wrong for tall gearing.

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at face value and why I advocate people try things for themselves. 16/43 works great for me. I commute 110 miles round trip on my bike but it's still functional off road as long as it doesn't get to technical. That's my ride and what works for me doesn't neccesarily work for everyone else. You have to experiment for yourselve to find what REALLY works for you.

16/45, because I couldn't get a 46. It's a little too tall, but not bad. At least it's an easy swap to a 14t. I tried 16/43 once before, and thought it a complete waste of time.

The taller gearing might be okay with clubman bars, or even a Triumph Euro bend, but the aerodynamic profile of this bike is all wrong for tall gearing.

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Jud, you realize that the stock setup is 15/43 (2.87), right?

Your gearing of 16/45 is 2.81, whereas 16/43 is 2.69. I'm not sure why you were aiming for 16/46 (2.88) because that is basically equivalent to stock. But, if you're like me and swap in the 14T for dirt duty, then I agree it's probably a good choice.

One thing I've found with doing this with a 14,16/48 combo is that I can't remove/install the 16T counter sprocket without taking out the rear axle. Complicates things and adds time. I even have a 110 link (IIRC) chain. Can you do this swap with stock chain (106 links) and without removing the axle?

Your gearing of 16/45 is 2.81, whereas 16/43 is 2.69. I'm not sure why you were aiming for 16/46 (2.88) because that is basically equivalent to stock. But, if you're like me and swap in the 14T for dirt duty, then I agree it's probably a good choice.

One thing I've found with doing this with a 14,16/48 combo is that I can't remove/install the 16T counter sprocket without taking out the rear axle. Complicates things and adds time. I even have a 110 link (IIRC) chain. Can you do this swap with stock chain (106 links) and without removing the axle?

Who out there has thoroughly tested their crash bars? Just wondering what everyone's experiences have been. Seems like the 2 big ones are the sw motechs and the happy trails pd kit. I think givi also released some as well. They all look great brand new but what about after a couple offs? Any bending? Tweaking? Fitment issues? I just don't want to waste the money on something that's going to go to crap the first nap it takes.

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I have been down twice with the SW Motech crash bars on my 2011 and not sustained any damage to either the bars or plastics. The crash bars fit very well and were easily installed in a short afternoon with help from a friend who had installed a set on his KLR last year.

I know, I know. Everyone has a larger sidestand foot. I kept mine lightweight by forming sheet metal (like the factory foot) and adding ribs for strength.

The top looks factory (though there might be a paint-matching problem ).

The bottom has the ribs I mentioned. Yea, the ribs aren't placed optimally.
Look! The spring is in focus! And that rock is sharp too!

I enlarged it last winter, and EVERY ride from home starts with this parked on gravel and ends with it parked on gravel. It seems strong enough and it weighs a bit more than the bolts on some bolt-on extensions.