With the latest version and the WinApi Hooks in place and XML\JSON data, I can now work on an app. Ill have a basic HTML5 application for any device\broswer that will provide basic functionality soon.

As Far as "without a PC". I'm not planning on that direction. Simply converting from RS232 to IP with those 29.99 devices does not allow for multiple people\devices to be controlling the amp. there I no way to queue commands back and forth or save\restore power fail state, have morning wakeup and all off at night..... There needs to be a central controller, or homeseer... just trying to point an android device directly at a converted Rs232 port isn't a solution in my book.

**** Update******
I have ported the code to mono for use with Raspberry Pi for those who dont have or want to have a pc
*****************

My other test version also allows you to point to directories of mp3's and lists of Shoutcast streams and combines the audio into the front\Center\rear channels so my automation server now has 3 cables to the Monoprice and is able to support 3 stereo channels.
leaving the other 3 for my Grace Box, Sonos, and the ELK.

Ok, I have a Itach flex IP plugged into my friends unit and I designed a remote on IRULE. It works prettty good, with all the basic functions right now. I did not add in the bass/treble or fade controls as we have found that they never get touched once set properly. I set each of the zone power switches to also turn the volume onto level 4, so as long as you turn on the zones with your phone after power outage the high volume is not an issue. It allows for multiple users and multiple codes at the same time as well. Its not a cheap option, but it works well and can later integrate any other devices you have. Take a look at the screen shots below. I also set each source to change the volume back down to 4 when selected in case one has a higher volume than another. So the itach was about $90 and the app is $50. If you have any other devices connected to your network there is no other hidden costs involved. You could also get a second itach with the IR cables to control multiple IR devices. Give me your thoughts guys. Any changes you would suggest?

Consider this a pre-announcement, as I'm finishing up testing on the software this week, but I have a Java based headless control daemon for the amplifier called MonoImp, which actively monitors the amp and calls out to scripts of your choice at various levels of granularity. The scripts can drive your home automation however you like. In addition, it exposes a REST API over HTTP for both controlling the amps zone attributes, but also loading and saving presets. I plan it to be a robust, light touch interface to scripting some pretty tidy home setups.

I would say primarily cost. The monoprice amp is pretty bare bones. It seems to have the same basic feature set of the Lync, but no app (though that's a matter of time given the efforts of folks here). I was interested in the Monoprice precisely because of its programmability though, as I want a system that's largely software defined and thus upgradable.

Not sure I fully understand what your app is going to do or what it will need to function? I assume the amp will also have to be hooked up to a PC all the time for it to work? Is the plan for it to work on android or iOS?

Github source coming this weekend, https://github.com/sgmiller/monoimp, in the meantime I've added the README. I'd love feedback on the API. It's worked well for what I'm setting up but I'm only one test case.

Not sure I fully understand what your app is going to do or what it will need to function? I assume the amp will also have to be hooked up to a PC all the time for it to work? Is the plan for it to work on android or iOS?

My app is a daemon running on a PC (cross platform) constantly, yes. It'll provide a web API for controlling the amp, and the ability to script automation when something changes on the amp. This allows for both directions of control: running something when someone changes something on the amp, via the keypads or an app, and changing the amp from an app or other automation events.

I'm not writing a phone/tablet app for the amp, but the daemon makes doing so dramatically easier. I definitely want to work with people who are versed at slick mobile apps, as I think this is a much shorter process than doing it directly over the serial link of the amp, which is push/pull.

I've updated the dropbox with a newer release of the Monoprice Amp Driver, which now selfhosts not only the JSON\XML WebApi, but also the beginnings of a JQuery client!!!

(hoping some java guru's will pitch in)

Also now the Mixer has been split into three EXE's, There is now AmpMixer.exe, AmpServer.exe and the AmpConfig.exe

Config is common to both Mixer and Server, but Server will run as a Windows Service in the background prior to login and allow for the Http Webserver and Tcp/IP WebApi connections to the Amp's Rs232 Port

Also in this new version are addiotional API's for Level UP and Down for all the commands to support buttons like above.

I'm going to be continuing Java Development along with Homeseer, for Now from HS you can

I really appreciate that you are doing this... I have not yet purchased the amp but am planning on putting 3 of them together for a new home in September and am looking forward to the progress you make on this app. Thanks!

Mike
Can I abandon the keypads all together using you apps and control purely via my phone? Keypads are great but I really think they will not be included in future designs so I am hoping to abandon them completely if possible.

I love what you have done. I am just about to get in and prewire my new house and your app gas solidified my purchase direction. So thank you very much.

Mike
Can I abandon the keypads all together using you apps and control purely via my phone? Keypads are great but I really think they will not be included in future designs so I am hoping to abandon them completely if possible.

I love what you have done. I am just about to get in and prewire my new house and your app gas solidified my purchase direction. So thank you very much.

You really should pre-wire for keypads... Bury the cat5e wires behind the drywall if you don't want to see blank plates on the wall. If you ever need them, they'll be ready for you... At a few bucks per run, it's very, very cheap future-proofing.

If Sonos, for example, came out with a wall-mounted touchscreen controller for $199 tomorrow - you might want those wires...

I agree, 10 years ago, After the inspector came through I spent the entire weekend pulling wire everywhere - coax, speaker, cat5e.... 2x Cat6 runs from basement to attic... then the builder closed the walls up. I walked around with a camcorder and filmed where i left everything and for the past 10 years I've used most of them. Today I would do less coax and more twisted pair, but if the walls are open I would be on Amazon looking for a good deal on spools of wire.

I am also in the process of building a house and just finished running wire for 12 zones and 12 keypad locations and 4 double STP Cat 6 runs to 4 tv locations for extending hdmi over Cat 6. Blue Board is starting today. I was going to wait to use the Cat 6 for the controllers but with the Monoprice controller/Amp I am going to purchase two of the units and get this in place hopefully before we move in. I was going to use the HTD system,until i saw this thread, because of the $149 add on that allowed you to control it with your smart phone. Thanks Mike for putting this app together and realizing the full potential of this Monoprice system. I am going to have my desktop pc in my media closet as well. So how exactly would we set up this system? Use the serial port to hook up the Monoprice amp to my desktop then install your apps? This is all new to me but i have learned a lot in the last 3-4 weeks. 4 weeks ago my knowledge of whole house audio was hooking up a receiver to 12 pairs of speaker wires!! Thanks, Steve

Warning on USB to Serial port adapters: A Chinese manufacture cloned the older Prolific chip (rev A) and it's in 75% of the no name brand converters. They will NOT work newer OS's (Server 2008/Windows 8) and have been know to Blue Screen systems. Prolific released (rev D) PL2303-HXD chip that is rock stable (in above product). There is also a newer PL2303TA chip that should be stable, although I haven't found an adapter on newegg that uses it. See http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowPr...id=155&pcid=41

Extract the Zip (working on an install shortly)
To run the Mixer or Service, Use AmpConfig and set the number of Amps you have and the COM port of the above cable.
To allow the remote App to work, you need to change the Server address in AmpConfig from 127.0.0.1 to the address of your computer - Typically 192.168.1.???
If you run Windows Firewall, make sure your firewall allows traffic to ports 50230-50231 for local computers\phone to see server

After that, go into your mobile browser and navigate to http://192.168.1.???:50230/Default.html and the Mobile Mixer should be on your phone.
(on the iPhone, I typically click the bottom Safari toolbar button and "Add to Homescreen" so you have native button)

You can play around with the Mixer and App without the amp being connected - all should be functional, it's just going to queue all the commands waiting for the amp

Let me know how it works for you.
Regards,
Mike

Last edited by mpisano; 07-03-2014 at 11:04 AM.
Reason: Warning and SKU correction and wanted to make it clear about the converter being 3ft and Rev D Chip

For those of you that have this unit, I have a quick question regarding the keypads... Is the keypad and face plate one unit, or can the face plate be removed/replaced? If so, will the keypad fit into a standard sized face plate? I ask because there's a few places in my home where I plan on having two keypads next to each other. Could I use a single 2 gang box, or will I have to use two 1 gang boxes? Thanks for the help!

I'm now on my 3rd RMAed "dead" unit. Did anyone else have any problems with the unit not powering up? I've gone through all sorts of hoops connecting a keypad, audio output, and source. Trying to use the keypad to power on a zone. Trying to use the RS232 interface, the triggers, anything, but I just get a vague hum and no lights on anything.

For those of you that have this unit, I have a quick question regarding the keypads... Is the keypad and face plate one unit, or can the face plate be removed/replaced? If so, will the keypad fit into a standard sized face plate? I ask because there's a few places in my home where I plan on having two keypads next to each other. Could I use a single 2 gang box, or will I have to use two 1 gang boxes? Thanks for the help!

They are normal Decora plates and you can put two in the same box and buy a standard double plate

I'm now on my 3rd RMAed "dead" unit. Did anyone else have any problems with the unit not powering up? I've gone through all sorts of hoops connecting a keypad, audio output, and source. Trying to use the keypad to power on a zone. Trying to use the RS232 interface, the triggers, anything, but I just get a vague hum and no lights on anything.

I have two units and neither had a problem.

Did they work at all at first or have all three done the same thing?

Have you always tried them on the same outlet? any possibility in your outlet being wired backwards?