Author Wendell Berry's thought, "A significant part of the pleasure of eating is in one's accurate consciousness of the lives and the world from which food comes" sent us out to the fields on Sunday to explore part of the Sierra Oro Farm Trail and be tourists in our home town.

First stop was Chico State University Farm on Hegan Lane. With the exception of some livestock auctions, we hadn't been to the farm for many years, and have never really toured the place. We hopped a tractor-trolley that took us through the various areas of study and were amazed at the diversity of operations that go on at the farm. We had exceptional tours by three student employees who were poised, knowledgeable and passionate about what they were doing.

Angel Chavez, in the milk parlor, explained milking operations for the farm's organic dairy. He and another student employee gather up and milk a herd of 80 colorful Jersey, Holstein and New Zealand cows at 5 in the morning and 5 in the evening every day. He then apologized for the length of his presentation.

"I could talk about this all day, so please, if you have any questions, feel free to interrupt ..."

In the beef unit barn we were greeted by Trevor Airola in a black cowboy hat and treated to a taste of the Young Catteman's Association tri-tip with its excellent signature rub. We learned some of the process in the feedlot finishing of the Red Angus and Hereford herd, and something about the symbiotic partnership between Sierra Nevada Brewery and the farm.

The cattle, owned by and raised for the brewery, are fed a specially concocted blend of corn and grains as well as a mash of brewer's yeast with beer and spent grains. The finished beef is served at the brewery restaurant. Airola joked that diners try to discern if their steaks were finished with "Old Chico" or "Summerfest" beer. These happy cows are treated well. They provide a great learning experience for aspiring cattlemen and a source of beef for the restaurant that is unparalleled. How many restaurants are able to confer with the manager of their herd, or choose the diet they prefer to finish their beef?

The heretofore secret recipe for the Young Cattleman's and the Butte County Cattleman's Tri-Tip Rub from Austin Fischer who prepared the tri-tip for tasting during the farm tour: 1 bottle Lawry's Seasoned Salt to 2 bottles of garlic powder, 1/2 bottle onion powder. Mixture is rubbed into the meat the night before (12- 18 hours ahead), refrigerated in a plastic bag and then barbecued to 160 degrees. Simple recipe, great flavor.

We passed by an organic vegetable farming plot, orchards, a poultry unit, a swine unit, a herd of goats and a flock of sheep being rounded up and tested for fat with something like an ultrasound machine. We ended at the University Meat Lab, a surgically clean place where animals are humanely butchered and prepared for consumers. Guide Jenna Combs led us on a matter-of-fact trip from pasture to plate, and here again the relationship with Sierra Nevada figured prominently. Two carcasses a week are butchered for Sierra Nevada, an experience other schools can accomplish only on paper, and my daughter Hanna Lindahl and her friend Kelsey Steffan, who had been at Sierra Nevada's Octoberfest the night before, were interested to know that the meat lab had produced the sausages served at the celebration dinner. You don't have to be a restaurateur to enjoy Chico State University Farm meat products. The meat lab is open to the public 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday and Friday.

Leaving the university farm, we headed west for a visit to Llano Seco Ranch. We had previously toured the Llano Seco organic pork operation, but this visit was about the beauty of the day and the land, one of the last intact Mexican land grant ranches in the state. Winter wheat had just been harvested and the freshly plowed fields were vast stretches of loamy soil following the contours of the land and the twisting course of the river to the horizon. I visit Llano Seco at any opportunity, just to see the stands of oaks, and river-carved swales that were the topography of the Sacramento Valley before human interference. Every visit I see something new on this immense 18,000-acre ranch. This time it was Perkins Lake, a long, narrow body of water in an Eocene erosional gorge, formed between 55 and 34 million years ago. It's calming to be able to look out over land unbroken by civilization, even though we are on a manmade road sitting on bales of hay on a trailer pulled by a tractor.

Down to Durham, we stopped at Gale Vineyards, both for Steve and Creasia's consummate hospitality and our favorite M?lange wine, but also to show the girls the tasting room built from rice-straw bales. The winery was an oasis for farm trail travelers who lingered at shady tables and enjoyed Gary Marquis' vintage cars while they tasted Gale Vineyard's wines and enjoyed the autumn afternoon.

Last stop for us was Mooney Farms at Chico Municipal Airport. Mooney farms began as a vendor of sun-dried tomatoes in the late 80s when sun-dried tomatoes were a gourmet ingredient rather than a pantry staple.We hadn't visited them since they opened their airport facility, which was recently expanded to 100,000 square feet. It's a lovely building surrounded by 200 year-old olive trees and waist-high lavender bushes. Inside, Mediterranean architecture influences the company store, meeting rooms and open kitchen coveted by the farm trail tourists who were mingling and grazing from a sumptuous buffet of dishes made with sun-dried tomatoes.

They served a salad that was so hearty, rich and satisfying I had to share the recipe.

8.5-ounce jar of Bella Sun Luci Sun Dried Tomatoes julienne cut, drain oil and set aside for use in another recipe

1Ú2 cup toasted pine nuts

1Ú2 pound baby spinach leaves

Dressing

1 bunch chives, chopped

1Ú2 bunch Italian flat leaf parsley, stems picked and discarded

1Ú4 cup Bella Sun Luci Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 teaspoon salt (adjust to taste)

1Ú2 teaspoon ground black pepper

Puree all chive oil ingredients in food processor or blender until smooth.

Combine all salad ingredients in a large salad bowl, except pine nuts, and toss with chive oil dressing. Garnish with toasted pine nuts.

We visited four of 28 marvelous Butte County farms, vineyards, orchards, on the Sierra Oro Farm Trail tour, each with their own story. If you missed it, plan ahead for next October, Columbus Day weekend. We live in an amazing place.

Nancy Lindahl features the vast culinary choices that abound in our farmers markets and backyard gardens. Sweet Basil and the Bee runs the second and fourth Wednesdays. Email to zookeeny@gmail.com.