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Parts and Service Suppliers

The parts I found on eBay seemed to be in only fair shape. No new old stock. Those holes the spring attaches to wear pretty quick.

The bellcrank to spring "joint" is definitely not a great design. 4130 sounds like a good option.oMy only concern with switching to steel was changing the wear point from the bellcrank to the spring end hook. At the end of the day these things were pretty cheap and I'll just make a new set every decade or so. I'm with you, I definitely don't want these giving out in the middle of nowhere. Worse, that middle "bearing" on mine is mostly wallowed out. Another wear item. I considered changing to a sealed bearing (like on the elevator) but figured I would reinvent the wheel.

If anyone wants the cad or drawing I used let me know...

Dave

hilltop180

2/5/2018 11:23 PM

I had F. Atlee Dodge in Anchorage build a set out of 4130 about 25 years ago, still in perfect shape and no more wallowed-out holes.

If you ever have one of those holes pull out while you're an hour away from the nearest airport you won't want aluminum in there any more. Both feet on one rudder pedal is no fun after a couple of minutes.

scottd170

2/5/2018 4:54 PM

Hi Dave

Check eBay. Belcrank for sale.

Scott

David Rabazzi

2/5/2018 10:04 AM

Kevin,

I ended up doing the same thing. How are you installing these, guessing your IA is good with owner built parts. My day job is working as a aerospace structures engineer so I geek'd out and actually made drawings, analyzed and wrote a report on the part to include with the 337. Parts to be machined next week. A buddy is a DER and I've sort of considered STC'ing it too.

I did end up using 6061-T6. 2024 is fine but keep a close eye out for corrosion. We've seen a good amount of exfoliation and stress corrosion cracking on our machined 2024 bracketry we've installed on aircraft. 7050 is the best choice but is especially pricey.

I have all the exact bushing part numbers (not in parts catalog) and they can be found at McFarlane. I'll look them up later tonight and re-post.

dick

2/5/2018 7:00 AM

Did you reuse the original bushing?

On 2/5/2018 7:45 AM, Kevin Elardo (kevin.elardo@gmail.com) wrote:> >>> Dave, I needed to replace the rudder bell cranks and had trouble finding them as well. I brought the originals to a local aerospace machine shop and they manufactured new ones out of a solid stock of 2024-T3. I've included a before and after photo.>> Attachment(s):> File: IMG_5383.JPG (1.1 MB) -- Address: http://s3.amazonaws.com/ClubExpressClubFiles/669928/attach/1899061_0_IMG_5383.JPG> File: IMG_5384.JPG (1.1 MB) -- Address: http://s3.amazonaws.com/ClubExpressClubFiles/669928/attach/1899061_1_IMG_5384.JPG>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<<> You have received this message as a member of: International 180/185 Club, Inc> Change preferences (including opt-out): https://SkywagonsClub.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?page_id=13&club_id=669928>>>

Kevin Elardo

2/5/2018 6:41 AM

Dave, I needed to replace the rudder bell cranks and had trouble finding them as well. I brought the originals to a local aerospace machine shop and they manufactured new ones out of a solid stock of 2024-T3. I've included a before and after photo.

Looking for a rudder/tailwheel bellcrank. Had a buddy who bought the bellcranks and attach brackets for about 1k a few years ago. Can't find the bellcranks under $1300 ea. Anyone have a favorite parts shop to try?