I have these. Took off my some great Ultegra 6700s. And no, they do not stop as well. Although, they have a GREAT return spring that gives them some of the best feel of any brake I have ever used. They saved me over 100grams over the Ults too, so I am not too bummed about the decrease in braking power.

I have these. Took off my some great Ultegra 6700s. And no, they do not stop as well. Although, they have a GREAT return spring that gives them some of the best feel of any brake I have ever used. They saved me over 100grams over the Ults too, so I am not too bummed about the decrease in braking power.

I finally installed them on my bike tonight and here are some of my thoughts about them....

The front caliper didn't come with a long enough lock nut to let me tighten it up. I had to re-use my original lock nut to make it work and that's one thing I don't like about. I know I could set it up to remove the cable bolt as kind of like a quick release to open up these calipers. However if you set it up like that, these calipers will have a huge gap with the wheels and that means you will have to pull the brake levers muchhhh more to engage the brakes. Finally, it doesn't come with any instruction or anywhere to download online as I was hoping to find out the torque specs for the installation.

I have them on my bike now but I honestly don't feel too comfortable with them. Will probably try to ride it out for a bit but I am sure I will replace them in the near future.

When you first set them up have the cable adjuster wound out half way or so then set the pads as close to the rim as you like,Then you have room to wind the adjuster down and slip the barrel out to open the calipers, don't run them with the pads too far out.Also the last pair I bought came fitted with Swiss stop greens as standard.

Nice. Mine came with the black SS pads which are going on my SS bike. Supposedly, Planet-X's new Ultralights are a different design than the UL's I purchased.

ahson, if you have to make that many adjustments/alterations to fit the PX's on you bike,I wouldn't bother running them. Brakes are supposed to "stop" you. If they fail, you fail. I had my LBS install mine. They are functionally perfect. But that's for "my" particular bike(with both the OEM Cannondale Slice Fork and the new Edge 1.0 I have on it now).

When you first set them up have the cable adjuster wound out half way or so then set the pads as close to the rim as you like,Then you have room to wind the adjuster down and slip the barrel out to open the calipers, don't run them with the pads too far out.Also the last pair I bought came fitted with Swiss stop greens as standard.

Nice. Mine came with the black SS pads which are going on my SS bike. Supposedly, Planet-X's new Ultralights are a different design than the UL's I purchased.

ahson, if you have to make that many adjustments/alterations to fit the PX's on you bike,I wouldn't bother running them. Brakes are supposed to "stop" you. If they fail, you fail. I had my LBS install mine. They are functionally perfect. But that's for "my" particular bike(with both the OEM Cannondale Slice Fork and the new Edge 1.0 I have on it now).

I totally forgot about the barrel adjuster to tighten up the brake gap. However the lock nut for these calipers are weak and not long enough for my front caliper. The lock nut for the rear is stripped for the allen key, and that will be a problem if I really need to remove them later. Will test how these brakes stop my bike in couple days.

If you are familiar with cantilever brakes (where the brake wire often is threaded through a small barrel and fastened with a bolt at its end), these brakes have a similar mechanism for quickly releasing the wire and spreading the calipers. If you study the picture posted above closer, you will see this small barrell held in place by the red-coloured pivot arm.

If you are familiar with cantilever brakes (where the brake wire often is threaded through a small barrel and fastened with a bolt at its end), these brakes have a similar mechanism for quickly releasing the wire and spreading the calipers. If you study the picture posted above closer, you will see this small barrell held in place by the red-coloured pivot arm.

hummm this don´t let me to have the brake pads very near the rim right? If I do so, it will be very difficult to open the mechanism, right?

If you are familiar with cantilever brakes (where the brake wire often is threaded through a small barrel and fastened with a bolt at its end), these brakes have a similar mechanism for quickly releasing the wire and spreading the calipers. If you study the picture posted above closer, you will see this small barrell held in place by the red-coloured pivot arm.

hummm this don´t let me to have the brake pads very near the rim right? If I do so, it will be very difficult to open the mechanism, right?

This question has already been answered here and really if you think about it, the answer is really simple.

You unwind the cable tensioner on the brakes so that you can just squeeze and inflated tire through. then when the brake is installed you simply take up the excess slack on the cable with the tensioner.

If I understand, this brakes doesen't have quick release. So how do you replace the whell? (picture?)

1. Squeeze the calipers against the rim with the left hand.2. With the right hand, grab the cable stop and pull it out of its "seat". Pull it out, around, and completely out of the lever where it sits. 3. Release Left hand. Now the tension is completely off the caliper and you can remove the wheels with plenty of tire clearance.

I leave mine loose enough that I can remove a 23mm tire through the calipers without having to remove the cable stop. When I use 25mm tire I have to remove the cable stop.

Reinsertion of the cable stop is just the reverse.

On the subject of stopping power: I notice that if I clean off my braking track of the wheel with alcohol that the stock pads work really good. But I have to have a disclaimer: I don't really like brakes that "work really good". I hate to have brakes lock-up too easily. I like a huge "gray area" so the stoppoing force comes on very gradually. So long as I can eventually lock them up if I pull hard enough

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