Here is what I picked up from WalMart this year. It has the notice it's alcohol free. I got this durning our last trip of the year as I planned to winterize as we packed for home, so I didn't check the MSDS. Hopping that's not going to be a mistake again.

I see no reason to blow out with air and use antifreeze. If you do a good job with enough air volume and pressure that should do the job (assuming you drain the hot water heater). If you just use anti freeze and make sure you see dark pink at every faucet blowing out with air is of no value. Choose one or the other but be sure to find all drainage points. I have a friend who works at a fairly large rv repair place and he says the most common freeze issue is hot water heaters and outside showers.

Two things there. Not sure if the air pressure actually goes through your pump. And there's not much room in that pump. Also, you never put AF in the fresh tank. You use a valve and hose on your pump inlet to switch between the fresh water tank and a tube where you can suck AF out of the bottles. AF in the fresh water tank is a mistake.

RV Water pumps are positive displacement, which means that it will pump any fluid (including air) that it can suck into it. You can actually purge a PD pump just by running it dry. The air from your air compressor only helps.

My Winnebago's prior owner obviously did not know to NOT put A/F into the freshwater tank. It was awful. After 5 full tank flushes, with bleach to sanitize, it was marginally drinkable. If you ever put up with that, you would see why I shy away from ANY A/F in my freshwater system.

The purge method works just as good as any other, costs nothing, and is quick and easy. Not saying anyone has to take my word for it, but it is what works for me.

I take my TT back to the dealer and they winterize it and do any needed preventive maintenance. Whatever they do works, as no ruptured pipes in four years. I drop it off in the morning and pick it up that evening after work and it is all nice and ready for the next season. I suppose I could winterize it myself, but I suppose I could change my own oil in the tow vehicle, too, and I have someone else do that as well.

My 89 Winnebago class A had no bypass and no low point drains. I drained the WH, used air then AF in drains and toilet. My 2015 Coachman 248RBS has no AF inlet and bypass valves that are not assessable so last winter I did the same as with the Winnebago. We live in central Oklahoma and camp year round, so this is the best for us.

Those that add Anti-Freeze to the traps...do you leave any in the toilet bowl?

I thought that I would do so this year because when I left it dry last year the rubber seal on the ball / foot valve was slightly seized and thinking the 'anti-freeze' would act as a lube and keep the rubber pliable.

Those that add Anti-Freeze to the traps...do you leave any in the toilet bowl?

I thought that I would do so this year because when I left it dry last year the rubber seal on the ball / foot valve was slightly seized and thinking the 'anti-freeze' would act as a lube and keep the rubber pliable.

AF only since 2008 with out a problem, but I would blow out the lines as well if I owned a compressor. ( For my pool I am able to clear the 4 return lines and the skimmer line with air from my shop vac and then use AF - been doing that since 1987).