Review: Backpack (Canned) Wine

Is canned wine a thing? Yes. Is canned wine necessarily a good thing (as it has been for beer)? Not really.

The latest entry into this burgeoning field is Backpack Wine, which comes in picnic-friendly one-and-a-half serving cans, four to a box.

What’s in the can? Who knows!? This trio of low alcohol, nonvintage wines are made in Modesto of complete mystery varietals — they don’t even carry a state appellation. For that matter, they don’t even claim to be made from grapes, but I’m giving them the benefit of the doubt on that one.

Well, I got to try them. Jealous?

NV Backpack Snappy White Wine – The nose is immediately off, with aromas of wet dog and mildew. If you can get past the aroma, it at least tastes better, a moscato-style citrus sweetness and some tropical notes giving its meaty undertone a slight lift. Just a hint of effervescence. D-

NV Backpack Cheeky Rose Wine – The nose is nearly indistinguishable from the Snappy White, a sweaty, garbage smell overpowering all else. A hint of floral perfume attempts to mask the funk, but fails. The palate here is much worse than the white, a mix of rotting flowers and old beef jerky. Again, slightly fizzy, but so hellishly pungent it’s hard to even pay attention. F

NV Backpack Rowdy Red Wine – The newest addition to the group, it’s a rowdy wine indeed. The nose here is a happy respite from the stink of the white and rose, offering a relatively traditional red berry jam aroma and a hint of cola. The palate is slightly sweet but dry enough for dinner. Hints of smoked bacon add some nuance — and here, the meaty character is more welcome. C