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This problem affects all bikes the reason the bike stalls out when idling low or when the clutch is pulled in is because of Fuel/Air/Combustion ....

Wrong reasons

1.If it was the spark plugs the bike would run rough in all gears all the time

2.IF it was Fuel pump you would notice poor performance in all gears and sometimes the bike will not start depending if the pump is punched.

3.GUYS! It's not the kick stand,I see this answer all the time (makes me laugh)

4.It is not sensor issue ether because well if sensor is bad whole thing will not work

5.It is not the clutch cable, because the stall happens then clutch is engaged

SOLUTION

Throttle bodies / VALVES need to be adjusted and synchronized (BY Professional) Do not attempt to do yourself involves opening cam cover and messing with Springs/Valves

Explained what is happening inside your engine/heads

---- Your bike is so many years old and has say 20,000km on it...depending how hard the bike has been ridden in its life this may have to be done sooner... Your Valve operates on Rockers and Springs inside the Cylinder Head... Over time the springs become less springy this requires Shimming of sprigs or if you are lucky (price) simple screw adjustment... As you ride the valves are not closing all the way, you do not feel this because you are traveling at high enough RPM to keep the engine going ....as soon as you engage the clutch it Revs down to 1750RPM, and now that the Valves are not closed properly the combustion stops happening...Simply put your engine chokes its self out

MAJOR SIMPTOMS

1BACK FIRE OF EXAUST (WHILE IN HI RPM) Sounds cool but not good for engine

2CLICKING IN ENGINE - Almost sounds Valves are running with no oil (listen close you will hear)

3NO TORQUE/HORSE POWER- When in good shape power wheelie is achievable at 5000-6000 RPM (on a 600cc)

Take spark plug out and turn flywheel to compression stroke, take a screw driver and stick it straight in the plug hole and crank flywheel till piston reaches top, remove tank and rocker box
covers . Take a guage and and run it in between valve end and rocker end. intake valve should
have a little more clearance then exhaust valve . once valves are to spec you should be good.

make sure its gettin spark, fuel, and air.. in any piston drivin engine there are four strokes...intake(air and fuel are sucked into the compression chamber) compression(where the intake stroke has hit bottom dead center and started back up, compressing the air and fuel) powerstroke(at the top of the compression stroke the spark ignites the compressed air/fuel and slams the piston down hence "power stroke" and last but not least Exaust(once the powerstroke has hit bottom dead center "bdc" it then begins its return to the top pushing out the exaust gasses) and then the cycle repeats itself..

Heads go on both intake and exaust valves closed on firing stroke. #1 cylinder So it should have the exaust valve about to open it. And the rotor button should be pointed toward the #1 cylider and it should be top dead center.

air and petrol mix in caburater cause of sucking pressure by the piston when intake stroke (intake valve remain open) then the piston move up to tdc(top dead center) that call compression stroke (at this time both valve remain closed) and just before the piston reach the tdc the plug stat to ignite and the detonation is the power stroke and push down the piston and the piston come up again as the exaust stroke. that is a little bit information

You said you did to specs but if that was the case the valves would not be open at tdc.
triple check your timing(get a light if nessisary)
check that you dont have the plug wires mixed up
Note:
Izuzu engines are very picky and if the marks are not correct after turning over two rotations as stated in the book it will not run.
(im also taking that this is the v6SOHC engine)

a top end rebuild the insdie has obviously rusted up strip the top end (barrel+head)inspect any parts that are rusty and replcaing them if it is realy bad inside i would replace engine as its probably cheaper use a manual to strip it down as its very difficult to deal with these 4 strokes as you have valves etc in top unlike stroke

Here's the deal > the chain position on the crankshaft cog makes no difference. No timing is done on that end. The timing is done when mounting the chain on the OHC. Run the piston up to TDC. Put the cam in a position where the cam lobes are pointing downward. Look at the cam gear. There should be two marks on one side of the gear. You should be able to see the marks from the left side of the engine. The cam is in time when the marks are parallel with the top gasket surface of the head and the gear is bolted to the cam. Now you have TDC compression stroke (good). If the cam lobes were pointing upward you would have TDC exhaust stroke (bad). Just to help you a bit in the future, I have a web site below where you can see a parts fitch for your specific bike.

You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspxPost a comment if you need to get back to me.Please top rate this solution. Thanks!

yea it sounds like the compression is down could be the rings or barrel wear or leaking head worst is lower end bearing this is most probable due to the banging noise think engine needs overhaul by a good mechanic