Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE
CONTINUE REFRESHING OUR '04 GRAND CHEROKEE. THIS JEEP WAS A GOOD DEAL
BUT IT WAS A LITTLE ROUGH. SO WE'RE USING A FEW TRICKS
AND A LOT OF ELBOW GREASE TO RAISE ITS VALUE. IT'S ALL TODAY
HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS,
WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. TODAY WE'RE BACK ON OUR '04
JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LIMITED POWERED BY A FOUR POINT
SEVEN LITER VEIGHT WITH AN ALL WHEEL DRIVE
TRANSFER CASE. NOW WE PICKED THIS THING
UP FOR CHEAP BECAUSE THE DEALERSHIP IT WAS GOING TO
GET TRADED INTO WASN'T GONNA GIVE MUCH FOR IT BECAUSE
IT WAS IN OVERALL KINDA POOR CONDITION.

SO WE FIGURED WE'D PUT A
LITTLE BIT OF ELBOW GREASE INTO IT, MAYBE A FEW
BUCKS, AND WE'D END UP WITH SOMETHING THAT'S NICER TO
DRIVE OR SOMETHING THAT WE CAN SELL, FLIP, AND
MAKE A FEW BUCKS ON.

(KEVIN)>> NOW PART OF THAT
ELBOW GREASE WAS SHOWING YOU GUYS A PRETTY UNIVERSAL
REPAIR, SOMETHING VERY COMMON IN LATE
MODEL VEHICLES.

WE SHOWED YOU HOW TO FIX
A SPLIT IN URETHANE BUMPER COVER, CHECK IT OUT.

NOW JUST LIKE WHEN YOU BODY
WORK SHEET METAL, THE GOAL IS TO GET THE SUBSTRAIGHT,
OR THE MATERIAL YOU'RE WORKING ON, STRAIGHT
AND FLAT, OR AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE. IN THIS CASE WE'RE USING
HEAT AND SOME AUTO BODY TOOLS TO GET THE SHAPE BACK
TO WHERE IT WAS ONCE MOLDED.

THEN DRYING THE WATER OFF
SETS IT UP FOR THE NEXT STAGE OF THE REPAIR, WHICH
IS REALLY KIND OF COOL. WE'RE USING AN ATTACHMENT
ON OUR STUD WELDING KIT THAT LITERALLY MOUNTS STAPLES
INTO THE BACK SIDE OF THE REPAIR, HOLDING IT IN PLACE,
AND DOING SO PERMANENTLY. A SIMPLE PREP ON THE BACK
SIDE MAKES IT A LITTLE SAFER TO HANDLE, AND A LITTLE BIT
OF INSURANCE IN THE FORM OF A TWO PART EPOXY ON THE
FRONT LETS US APPLY FILLER IN A CONVENTIONAL AUTO
BODY REPAIR FORMAT. TWO STAGES OF FILLER AND
WE'RE READY FOR THE NEXT STEP, WHICH IS PRIMER.

(RYAN)>> NOW THE INTERIOR
DEFINITELY NEEDED SOME ATTENTION AS WELL. AND WITH THE SEATS PULLED
OUT WE WERE ABLE TO GET IN HERE WITH A VACUUM CLEANER. AND UNDERNEATH ALL THE
DOG OR CAT HAIR AND TRASH THERE'S SOME CARPET THAT'S
IN PRETTY GOOD CONDITION. JUST LIKE THE REST OF THE
INTERIOR, IT JUST NEEDS TO

BE CLEANED AND WIPED DOWN.

WE SHOULD BE OKAY. LOOKS LIKE THE ONLY THING
WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO SPEND MONEY ON IS A SHIFT
INDICATOR OR TRIM PIECE. IT'S KINDA TRASHED. SO IT'LL GIVE US AN
OPPORTUNITY TO PULL THE CONSOLE, CLEAN UP ALL
THIS NASTY, AND WE

SHOULD BE IN GOOD SHAPE. THE SEATS, THAT'S
KEVIN'S JOB.

(KEVIN)>> THESE SEATS, LIKE
THE REST OF THE VEHICLE,

WELL THEY'RE NOT DESTROYED. THEY'RE JUST IN REALLY BAD
CONDITION DUE TO NEGLECT. AND THERE'S NO OBVIOUS TEARS
OR SPLITS IN THE SEAMS. THERE'S JUST WEAR MARKS
HERE IN THE SEAT BUTTS. THE PASSENGER SIDE SEAT,
WELL IT'S NOT ANY DIFFERENT. THERE'S JUST OBVIOUS WEAR
HERE AND THERE, WHICH IS GOOD NEWS FOR US BECAUSE WE
DON'T HAVE TO SPRING FOR NEW LEATHER SEAT COVERS. EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE
COMPANIES LIKE KATSKIN THAT WILL RESKIN THIS ENTIRE
SEAT FOR YOU AND IT WILL FIT AND LOOK GREAT, WE JUST
DON'T WANT TO SPEND THE MONEY BECAUSE WE WANT TO
MAKE MONEY ON THE VEHICLE. SO THANKS TO DUPLICOLOR
WE'VE GOT OPTIONS. NOW THEY'VE GOT SEVERAL
DIFFERENT COLORS OF THIS VINYL AND FABRIC DYE, WE'RE
OBVIOUSLY GONNA USE BLACK. NOW THE SEATS AREN'T A
REALLY REALLY DARK BLACK, THEY'RE MORE OF A DARK GRAY,
BUT THAT'S OKAY BECAUSE IF WE DO ALL FOUR OF THEM, WELL
WE'LL HAVE THE SAME EFFECT. AND WE CAN MAKE THESE THINGS
LOOK ALMOST BRAND NEW.

BUT BEFORE WE DO ANY KIND
OF A REFINISH JOB, JUST LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE, THERE'S
SOME PREP AND SOME CLEANING.

WE'RE GONNA DO SEVERAL
STAGES OF CLEANING, INCLUDING A SOLVENT BASED
CLEANER AND A WATER BASED CLEANER TO MAKE SURE
EVERYTHING GETS OUT OF THE GRAIN OF THAT
LEATHER AND VINYL. BUT THE FIRST THING, JUST
LIKE THE '80'S ROCK BAND, WE'RE GONNA GET THE FUNK OUT
CAUSE WE DON'T KNOW WHO'S BEEN SITTING IN THOSE SEATS
AND IF THEY HAD PANTS ON. OKAY, OUR SOLVENT CLEANER
SERVES TWO PURPOSES, WE TEST

FOR COLOR FASTNESS TO SEE
IF IT'S GONNA PULL THE COLOR

OUT OF THE LEATHER,
AND IT SERVES AS A VERY AGGRESSIVE CLEANER. ACETONE IS REALLY
GOOD FOR THIS PURPOSE. SO GIVE IT A LITTLE SHOT,
COLOR STAYS THERE, WE'RE GETTING A LITTLE
BIT MORE FUNK OUT.

SO KEEP ON CLEANING.

SEE HOW QUICKLY IT
EVAPORATES, THAT'S WHY IT'S GOOD FOR THIS PURPOSE. LOOK AT THAT, BOY
THOSE WERE DIRTY. WHEN YOU'RE SURE THE SURFACE
IS CLEAN THERE'S ONE MORE STEP IN THE PROCESS, WHICH
IS PROFILING OR SCUFFING UP THE TOP SURFACE OF THE SEAT. THE GRAY SCUFFING PAD ROUGHS
IT UP JUST ENOUGH TO GIVE THE VINYL DYE A LITTLE BIT
BETTER CHANCE OF STICKING. ALONG WITH OUR FABRIC DYE
WE PICKED UP SOME PREP WIPES FROM DUPLICOLOR. THESE COME IN A SEALED
PACKAGE AND REALLY CONVENIENT SINCE YOU DON'T
HAVE TO BUY A GALLON OF

CLEANING SOLVENT. USE AS MANY AS YOU NEED TO
AND WIPE THE TOP SURFACE ONE MORE TIME FOR A GOOD
THOROUGH CLEANING. KEEP IN MIND THAT THIS STUFF
STICKS AROUND A WHILE, AND IF YOU START TO PAINT RIGHT
AWAY YOU MIGHT TRAP SOME OF THAT SOLVENT IN THE CRACKS
AND CREVICES OF THE SEAT. SO GIVE IT A GOOD
CHANCE TO DRY FIRST. THE FIRST COAT IS
OBVIOUSLY A LIGHT COAT. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE
THAT YOU'RE SETTING UP THE SURFACE TO TAKE ON THE
SUBSEQUENT OR FOLLOWING COATS OF THE VINYL
AND LEATHER DYE.

NOW YOU'RE USING
SMOOTH AND EVEN COATS WITH AN EVEN OVERLAP. AND BY THE WAY, GET READY
FOR YOUR FORE ARM AND YOUR FINGER TO GET SORE. SUCK IT UP, LIFE'S HARD.

YOU WANT TO LEAVE IT ABOUT
50 MINUTES IN BETWEEN COATS, AND WE ARE APPLYING
THREE COATS TO THE SEATS.

BECAUSE THE COLOR IS BLACK
AND BECAUSE IT SPRAYS ON PRETTY THICK, YOU COULD
COVER IT ALL IN ONE COAT, BUT YOU COULD SET YOURSELF
UP FOR FAILURE THAT WAY AND CREATE A CONDITION
KNOWN AS BRIDGING. BRIDGING IS WHEN THE PAINT
STICKS TO THE PAINT BUT IT'S NOT REALLY STUCK TO
WHAT YOU'RE PAINTING. IF THAT DOESN'T MAKE ANY
SENSE, BASICALLY YOU'RE PUTTING A BLANKET ON TOP OF
THE SURFACE THAT COULD BE YANKED OFF AND COME OFF
ON YOUR CLOTHES OR JUST FLAKE OFF AND LOOK BAD. SO THREE LIGHT COATS, MAKING
SURE YOU'VE GOT COMPLETE COVERAGE, IS THE CORRECT
WAY TO DO THIS AND MAKE IT A PERMANENT AND REALLY
NICE LOOKING REPAIR. WITH THIS PARTICULAR PRODUCT
YOU'VE GOT THE OPTION OF EITHER A HIGH GLOSS
OR A FLAT FINISH. WE'RE USING THE FLAT FINISH
SINCE LEATHER REALLY DOESN'T HAVE A HIGH GLOSS EVER. IN CASE YOU'RE WONDERING
WHY WE'RE USING A VINYL AND FABRIC DYE ON LEATHER,
WELL HERE'S A MISNOMER. LEATHER IS TYPICALLY
JUST ON THE TOP SURFACE. THE SIDES OF THE
LEATHER SEAT ARE MOST OF THE TIMES VINYL. WELL IT IS AS EASY AS THAT.

AND AS YOU CAN SEE,
THEY LOOK REALLY GOOD. IT'S NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR
RECOVERING THE SEATS, BUT IT MAKES THEM LOOK REALLY
GOOD AND IT'S NOT GONNA COME OFF ON YOUR CLOTHING. KEEP IN MIND, WE BURNED
UP A WHOLE CAN JUST DOING THE TWO SEATS. SO IF YOU'RE GONNA DO THE
REST OF THE INTERIOR OR THE BACK SEAT AND MAYBE A CENTER
CONSOLE, FACTOR THAT IN TO HOW MANY CANS OF THIS
VINYL DYE THAT YOU PURCHASE, NOT BAD!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME
BACK TO THE SHOP AND THE FRESHENING UP OF OUR
'04 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE. NOW THIS WJ COMES WITH
NICE 17 INCH ALUMINUM WHEELS, AND THE OTHER THREE
ARE IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE. THIS ONE'S NOT BAD, BUT IT'S
GOT A LITTLE BIT OF A GOUGE HERE ON THE WHEEL LIP. IT DOESN'T EFFECT THE
WHEEL STRUCTURALLY, IT JUST DOESN'T LOOK THAT GOOD. SO WE'RE GONNA SE WHAT
WE CAN DO ABOUT FIXING THIS LITTLE BLEMISH. ALRIGHT, NOW WITH THE TIRE
REMOVED FROM THE WHEEL, WE CAN DO A LITTLE BIT OF
TIG WELDING AND MAKE THIS COSMETIC REPAIR.

THE FIRST THING WE'VE GOT TO
DO IS CLEAN UP THE DAMAGED AREA AND GET RIDE OF THIS
CHUNK OF BROKEN ALUMINUM. NEXT WE'RE GONNA GRIND THE
AREA WHERE WE'RE GONNA BE MAKING THE REPAIR. NOW WE'VE GOT TO GET ALL
THAT DIRT AND GRIME OUT OF THE TEXTURE OF
THE DAMAGE AREA. IF WE LEFT IT IN THERE, WE'D
BE FIGHTING FEROCITY AND CONTAMINATION OF THE WELDS. PROBABLY HAVE TO GRIND
IT DOWN AND REDO IT. I'M ALSO GRINDING OFF
A LITTLE BIT OF THE SURROUNDING CLEAR COAT
FOR THE SAME REASON. ONCE THAT'S DONE WE FIRED UP
OUR MILLER DIVERSION 165 TIG WELDER AND GOT TO
WORK ON LAYING DOWN SOME FILLER ALUMINUM. NOW NORMALLY SHOWING THE
DETAIL OF ANY TYPE OF ARC WELDING CAN BE CHALLENGING,
BUT OUR CAMERA GUY ROB HE'S GOT A TECHNIQUE DOWN THAT
ALLOWS YOU TO SEE THE PROCESS AND NOT JUST
THE FINISHED RESULT. IT'S PRETTY NEAT TO SEE
THE INDIVIDUAL BEADS FORM ON THE WELD. BASICALLY I'M BUILDING
UP THIS WALL HERE. A LITTLE BIT OF ALUMINUM
AND I'M GONNA RETIG LATER. NOW WHAT I'M TRYING TO DO IS
BASICALLY STACK WELD BEADS ON TOP OF EACH OTHER UNTIL
THERE'S ENOUGH MATERIAL OR ALUMINUM THERE TO BE
RESHAPED WITH A GRINDER. NOW ON A SMALL COSMETIC
REPAIR LIKE THIS THAT'S SOMETHING YOU MIGHT
WANT TO TRY AT HOME. BUT IF THE WHEEL IS BADLY
DAMAGED OR CRACKED, YOU MIGHT NEED TO JUST REPLACE
THE WHEEL ALL TOGETHER, OR AT THE LEAST TAKE IT
TO A PROFESSIONAL SHOP AND HAVE IT REPAIRED. AND WITH THE WELDING DONE,
WE SWAP THE WELDING HELMET FOR SOME SAFETY GLASSES
AND GOT TO WORK RESHAPING ALL THE ALUMINUM. STARTED OUT WITH A CUTOFF
WHEEL JUST TO GET THE ROUGH

SHAPE, AND THEN MOVED ON
TO SOMETHING A LITTLE LESS AGGRESSIVE, LIKE THIS DIE
GRINDER WITH A MEDIUM GRIT SANDING DISC ON IT.

WE JUST GENERALLY BROUGHT
THE WHEEL BACK TO ITS SHAPE. NOW THIS ISN'T
AN EXACT SCIENCE. WE'RE BASICALLY JUST EYE
BALLING IT, AND IT'S NOT GOING TO BE
ABSOLUTELY PERFECT. RIGHT THERE, IT'S
MORE OF A LIP. BUT AFTER SOME CAREFUL
GRINDING, AND FILING, AND RESURFACING, YOU CAN
GET PRETTY DARN CLOSE. NOW THE SANDING DISC LEFT SOME
SCRATCHES IN THE ALUMINUM. SO TO GET RID OF THOSE AND
LEVEL THINGS OUT I'M USING A

DIE GRINDER AND A
COARSE RESURFACING DISC TO FINISH THINGS UP. ALRIGHT, WELL IT'S NOT A
PERFECT REPAIR BUT IT'S A LOT BETTER THAN WHAT IT WAS.

UNLESS YOU WERE
LOOKING FOR IT, YOU'D PROBABLY NEVER SEE IT. NOW IF THIS WAS A FULLY
POLISHED ALUMINUM WHEEL YOU COULD SPEND A LITTLE BIT
MORE TIME MAKING IT NEARLY PERFECT AND IT'D BE A
NEARLY UNDETECTABLE REPAIR. BUT THIS IS A MACHINE FINISH
WHEEL WITH A CLEAR COAT.

I GUESS WE COULD STRIP ALL
THE CLEAR COAT OFF, RECLEAR THE ENTIRE THING, AND YOU'D
PROBABLY NEVER SEE IT. BUT WE'RE GONNA COVER IT UP
AND CHANGE THE LOOK OF THE VEHICLE WITH A LITTLE
BIT OF WHEEL PAINT.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK.

WELL A WHILE AGO YOU SAW
ME FIX THIS PLASTIC BUMPER COVER, AND NOW IT'S IN
FINISHING PUTTY READY FOR PRIMER/SURFACER. I'VE ALSO FIXED SOME OF THE
GOUGES AND WHISKEY KNICKS IN THE SIDE CLADDING AND SOME
OF THE OTHER PARTS OF THIS VEHICLE, INCLUDING THE FRONT
BUMPER, AND KNOCKED OUT SOME OF THE DENTS IN THE SHEET
METAL BECAUSE WE'RE TRYING TO FLIP THIS RIG.

AND LETS FACE IT, WE CAN
MAKE A LOT MORE MONEY IF THE BODY WORK'S IN GOOD SHAPE
AND IS NICE AND SHINY. BUT WE DIDN'T FIX
EVERYTHING, WE SAVED A GOOD ONE FOR YOU GUYS. NOW THIS IS NOT NECESSARILY
WORST HIT, BUT IT'S THE MOST INTERESTING BECAUSE THERE'S
A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT STUFF IN PLAY, AND IT'S A
LITTLE BIT OF A CHALLENGE. NOW YOU CAN SEE THE
SCRATCHES HERE AND YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO SEE SOME OF THE
METAL DISTORTION, BUT NOW I BET YOU REALLY CAN. I'VE GOT SOMETHING TO
REFLECT AGAINST THE BLACK SHEET METAL, AND IT'S PRETTY
EVIDENT IT'S BEEN PUSHED IN. IT'S BEEN PUSHED IN AT A
WEIRD ANGLE FROM THE SIDE. NOW YOUR NEW JERK IS TO GET
IN BEHIND IT AND POP IT OUT FROM THE BACK LIKE A BED
SIDE ON A PICK UP TRICK, BUT NOT SO FAST BECAUSE BACK
HERE YOU CAN SEE THAT WE DON'T HAVE ACCESS
TO ANY OF THIS. IT'S A DOUBLE WALL PANEL
AND IT'S PROTECTING THE FUEL FILLER NECK. SO WE'VE GOT TO THINK
OF SOMETHING ELSE. NOW NORMALLY WHAT I DO IS
GRIND THIS DOWN TO METAL, USE MY STUD WELDER, AND JUST
PULL IT OUT FROM THE FRONT. BUT GUESS WHAT THIS IS,
THIS IS OUR FUEL NECK. THAT'S THE FUEL SOURCE.

THERE MIGHT BE VAPORS
COMING OUT OF THERE. SO I WANT TO AVOID
SPARKS AT ALL COSTS. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO GET
CREATIVE AND FIND A WAY TO MAYBE PRY IT OUT FROM
THE INSIDE, AND NOT BLOW OURSELVES UP. SO WE'RE GONNA PULL
THIS TAIL LIGHT OUT.

WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS
A VENT THAT GIVES ME ACCESS TO THIS, SCORE.

(RYAN)>> THIS IS A PAINTLESS
DENT REPAIR KIT FROM MATCO, AND IT INCLUDES EVERYTHING
YOU NEED TO DO FOR PAINTLESS DENT REPAIR. THAT'S NOT WHAT
KEVIN'S DOING TODAY.

WHAT WE'RE DOING IS
BASICALLY USING ONE OF THE TOOLS AS AN ADJUSTABLE PRY
BAR SO I CAN GET IN BEHIND THE DENT, APPLY A LITTLE
PRESSURE TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE SHEET METAL.

(KEVIN)>> WITH THE PDR
TOOLS SET AT THE APPROPRIATE ANGLE, NOW IT'S JUST A
MATTER OF GETTING A FEEL FOR THE METAL AND POKING AND
SEEING HOW IT RESPONDS. TYPICALLY YOU STAB FOR THE
LOWEST POINT OF THE DENT FIRST, AND SOMETIMES THAT
CARRIES THE REST OF THE DAMAGE BACK INTO
THE CORRECT SHAPE. BUT IT IS A LOT OF TRIAL
AND ERROR AND TAKES SOME FUSING AROUND. BUT THERE'S THE TIP I WANT
TO PASS ON THAT I USE A LOT IN AUTO BODY WORK. USE THE REFLECTION ON
YOUR SURFACE TO TELL YOU WHERE YOU ARE. THAT POPPING MEANS
THERE'S STILL PRESSURE.

I'VE GOT TO FIGURE OUT
WHERE THE PRESSURE IS. LOOK TO THE EDGES OF IT. THERE'S PRESSURE THERE,
PRESSURE DOWN HERE. NOW YOU'VE PROBABLY NOTICED
BY NOW JUST HOW FLIMSY THIS SHEET METAL IS. WELL THAT'S JUST STANDARD
IN TODAY'S VEHICLES. THE SHEET METAL IS USED FOR
AESTHETICS OR AERODYNAMICS, AND TYPICALLY HAS VERY
LITTLE TO DO WITH THE

STRENGTH OR SAFETY
OF THE VEHICLE. THAT'S ALL ENGINEERED
INTO THE UNIBODY. SO BASICALLY WE'RE JUST
MESSAGING THE SHAPE BACK IN FOR THE LOOKS OF IT.

YOU CAN SEE BY THE
REFLECTION THAT MOST OF THE DENT HAS BEEN WORKED OUT
AND WE'RE GETTING REALLY CLOSE TO OUR SHAPE. THE HAMMER COMES IN TO ADD
A LITTLE BIT OF PRESSURE IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION AND
BRING THE SHEET METAL BACK IN WHERE I'VE HYPER
EXTENDED IT WITH THE PICK OF THE PDR TOOL. THIS BACK AND FORTH MOTION
STRETCHES THE METAL TO WHERE IT MORE CLOSELY RESEMBLES
THE SHAPE THAT IT HAD BEFORE IT WAS DAMAGED. A PEEK AT THE INSIDE REALLY
GIVES YOU SOME PERSPECTIVE ON WHAT'S INVOLVED IN A
UNIBODY CONSTRUCTION. YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE THE
SEPARATION BETWEEN THE INNER AND OUTER SHEET METAL. AND OF COURSE THE CORROSION
PROTECTION, WHICH IS WHY SOME OF THESE VEHICLES
LAST SO MUCH LONGER. EVERYTHING IS BATHED
IN AN EPOXY PRIMER. IT ALSO SHOWS YOU THAT
WITH A SEVERE COLLISION THE DAMAGE CAN TRANSFER FROM THE
OUTER TO THE INNER LAYER AND CAUSE MISALIGNMENT ISSUES
THAT TAKE EITHER A LOT MORE MONEY TO REPAIR OR A LOT
MORE TIME TO WORK OUT. NOW I'M GONNA USE A HEEL
DOLLY FROM MATCO TO REACH INSIDE THE QUARTER PANEL
AND BRACE THE METAL SO I CAN PEEN SOME OF THE HIGH
SPOTS BACK INTO SHAPE. WHEN YOU'RE DOING A REPAIR
LIKE THIS, JUST KEEP IN MIND THAT EVERY ACTION FROM THE
HAMMER CREATES REACTION IN THE METAL AND YOU JUST HAVE
TO MONITOR YOUR PROGRESS. YOU CAN TELL BY THE LIGHT
IN THE REFLECTION THAT OUR SHAPE IS BACK WHERE WE WANT. SO NOW JUST A SKIM COAT
OF FILLER AND WE'RE DONE.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK. WELL SO FAR SO GOOD. WE MANAGED TO STRAIGHTEN THE
METAL OUT ON THIS QUARTER

PANEL BY USING PRY BARS AND
GETTING IN BEHIND THE DAMAGE AND MESSAGING IT OUT THAT
WAY, RATHER THAN PULL IT OUT FROM THE FRONT
USING A STUD WELDER. WE'RE WORKING RIGHT BESIDE
THE FUEL FILLER AND WE DIDN'T WANT TO CREATE SPARKS
IF WE DIDN'T HAVE TOO WELL WE'RE NO LONGER
AT THAT STAGE. I'VE GOT TO GRIND THE PAINT
OFF AND GET DOWN TO THE BARE METAL TO APPLY THE FILLER. SO NOW WE'RE GONNA USE
A LITTLE COMMON SENSE. THIS IS SIMPLY A DAMP PAPER
TOWEL AND I'M GONNA FOLLOW IT WITH SOME MASKING
TAPE TO GIVE MYSELF A BIT OF A VAPOR BARRIER. I HAVEN'T BLOWN MYSELF UP
DOING BODY WORK YET, AND I DON'T PLAN ON DOING IT
IN FRONT OF YOU GUYS. IT MIGHT SEEM LIKE OVERKILL
BUT IT'S GOING TO ELIMINATE THE POSSIBILITY OF IGNITING
FUEL VAPOR EITHER WITH SPARKS OR STATIC
ELECTRICITY.

THE MAKER JUST SERVES AS A
GUIDELINE TO LET ME KNOW IF EVERYTHING ELSE IS COVERED
UP WITH DUST WHERE I WANT TO

GRIND, AND WHERE I WANT
TO STOP MORE IMPORTANTLY. I'M USING A 24 GRIT DISC
ON AN ANGLE GRINDER. THIS IS A VERY AGGRESSIVE
SCRATCH PATTERN AND ELIMINATES ANY PAINT OR
PRIMER AND ALLOWS ME TO GO RIGHT TO THE BARE
METAL SUB STRAIGHT. NOW HERE'S A TRICK THAT
JACKIE CARTER SHOWED

ME A LONG TIME AGO. TAKING 80 GRIT ON A DUAL
ACTION SANDER, FEATHER OUT PASS WHERE YOU'RE GRINDING. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO TAPER
YOUR FILLER APPLICATION SMOOTHLY INTO THE PAINT SO
THERE'S TRANSITION AND NO BUMP THAT MATS
THROUGH THE PAINT. TYPICAL POLYESTER FILLER,
AKA BONDO IS APPLIED FIRST, FOLLOWED BY BLOCKING WITH 36
GRIT AND THEN SHAPING WITH 80 GRIT, WHICH SETS IT UP
PERFECTLY FOR THE FINE TALC FINISHING PUTTY. WHICH FILLS IN PIN HOLES AND
ANY ERRANT 36 GRIT SCRATCHES THAT YOU MAY HAVE MISSED. SO THIS DENT, LIKE THE REST
OF DAMAGE ON THE VEHICLE, IS READY FOR A HIGH BUILD
PRIMER/SURFACER, ONE MORE ROUND OF BLOCKING. AND THEN WE CAN SHOOT
SOME COLOR ON IT. WE'RE GONNA PRIME IT ALL AT
ONE TIME AND NEXT TIME YOU SEE THIS THING WE'LL
SHOW YOU HOW TO SPOT

PAINT AND BLEND. THERE'S NOT MUCH THAT'S AS
COOL LOOKING OR AS SAFE AND RELIABLE AS A PROPERLY
INSTALLED AN FITTING ON A STAINLESS HOSE.

WELL YOU GUYS THAT HAVE DONE
THESE HOSES, YOU KNOW THAT JUST DOING THEM BY HAND
SOMETIMES IS QUESTIONABLE. WHETHER THEY'RE
SEATED PROPERLY COULD LEAD TO FAILURE.

THERE'S WHERE COOL
TOOLS COMES IN. COOL TOOL'S FIXTURES COME
IN ALL THE POPULAR SIZES AND

BASICALLY MOUNT A BENCH VICE
AND ALLOW YOU TO PUSH ON YOUR HOSES AND LINES
QUICKLY AND EASILY. AND IF YOU'RE WORKING WITH
PUSH STYLE FITTINGS, WELL COOL TOOLS HAS JUST COME OUT
WITH THEIR NEW HOSE PRESS, MAKING IT EVEN EASIER
BYPASSING THE BENCH VICE. COOL TOOLS IS SOLD
WHEREVER FIND TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT ARE AVAILABLE.

(RYAN)>> NOW WE'VE ALL
BEEN IN A SITUATION WHERE INSTALLING A STEREO, OR AN
AIR TANK, OR MAYBE SOME FOG LIGHTS AND SOME OF THE
COMPONENTS GO INSIDE THE VEHICLE AND
SOME OF THEM GO OUT. YOU'VE GOT TO RUN THOSE AIR
LINES OR WIRES THROUGH THE FIREWALL AND SEAL THEM
FROM THE ELEMENTS. WELL THIS DAYSTAR
FIREWALL BOOT MAY SOLVE A PROBLEM FOR YOU. ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS DRILL
A INCH AND A HALF HOLE IN THE FIREWALL, THE BOOT WILL
SEAL TO IT, AND THEN YOU'RE LEFT WITH THREE DIFFERENT
OPTIONS AS FAR AS WIRE BUNDLE, AIR LINE BUNDLE
SIZES FROM THREEEIGHTHS ALL THE WAY UP TO AN INCH. ONCE YOUR DONE SIMPLY SECURE
IT WITH A ZIP TIE AND YOU'RE IN GOOD SHAPE. AND SOMETIMES IT'S JUST THE
LITTLE THINGS THAT PUT THE FINISHING TOUCH ON THE
PROJECT YOU'RE WORKING ON AND MAKE
EVERYTHING COMPLETE.

(KEVIN)>> IF YOU'RE LOOKING
AS A VEHICLE MOUNTED WINCH THAT DOUBLES AS A WORK
STATION, LOOK NO FURTHER AS THE WARN POWER PLANT DUAL
FORCE HD WITH A 12,000 POUND PULLING CAPABILITY. THE WINCH ITSELF FEATURES
80 FEET OF STEEL ROPE AND ACCESSORIES LIKE A HOOK, A
FAIRLEAD, AND THE NEW NEXT GENERATION CONTROLLER. BUT THAT'S WHEN THE WINCH
STOPS AND THE WORK STATION KICKS IN WITH AN ONBOARD AIR
COMPRESSOR THAT INCLUDES AN ACCESSORY BAG THAT HOLDS A
GAUGE, A TIRE CHUCK, 12 FEET OF AIR HOSE, VARIOUS
FITTINGS AS WELL AS MOUNTING HARD WARE AND SOME OTHER
AIR COMPRESSOR ACCESSORIES. THE COMPRESSOR ITSELF IS
CAPABLE OF FIVE CFM AT 90 PSI, MAKING IT VERSATILE
ENOUGH FOR A VARIETY OF DIFFERENT AIR TOOLS, MAKING
THE POWERSTATION HD GREAT FOR OFF ROAD OR ON THE JOB. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK
TECH, SEE YOU GUYS SOON.