SBGII

Rating

Description

By incorporating a rigid stem on this device, climbers go from full lock-off to whipping out rope in a single, smooth action—no more binding up as the device tries to free itself. The amount of friction can be completely adjusted to suit your particular need. Does your climber outweigh you? Are you using skinny ropes? Then set up the brake line through the V-Slots! Clipping in short (into the oblong hole in the center of the stem) adds even more braking power.

Climbing with fat ropes, a skinny partner or on low-angle slabs? Then belay off the U-Grooves and clip into the bottom hole of the SBGII for less friction. If you’ve ever rapped on a single 8mm or 9mm rope with other belay devices, you know what a fast and loose ride that can be! With the SBGII, wrap that skinny cord around the rigid stem and rappel, figure-8 style, for the ultimate in control and safety.

Retail price

US$ 22.95

When you click a link below and then checkout online, no matter what you buy (climbing gear or not), we get a small commission that helps us keep this site up-to-date. Thanks!

If you can’t see any buying options above, try turning off all ad-blocking plugins.

Device Type

Tube

The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device."

Figure 8

Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope.

Brake Assist

These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope.

Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time).

Plate

When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.

Descender

For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping.

Tube

Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

77 g

Teeth

Teeth

Teeth are only seen on tube devices. They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.

This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.

Worth Considering

Teeth do wear out. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction.

Yes

Guide Mode

Guide Mode

This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.

Tubers and Plates

When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. A common guide mode setup shown below.

Mechanical Brake Assist Devices

There is no difference in the functionality of the device. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. A common guide mode setup shown below.

Where guide mode is used

multi-pitch sport or trad climbs

single-pitch where you need to bring up a follower (say for a walk-off)

Learn More

Belay Brake Assist

This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber.

This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.

Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope.

Worth Considering

Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel).

No

Rope Range (mm)

Rope Range (mm)

The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used.

This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm.

Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device.

4.0 mm - 13.0 mm ­­­

Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

Summary: Unlike the keeper loops that all the other devices in our test utilize, the SBG II features a solid-metal stem, which renders the durability issue moot. The stem has two clip-in points — one at the end for belaying andrappelling with single ropes, and one in the center for belaying with skinny double ropes. The tube features deep rope-controlling jaws on one side and rounder and feeding-friendly grooves on the other, so you can rig accordingly. The one downside to the SBG II is its complicated feature set — take time to read the instructions so you get full value.
Pros: Very versatile.
Cons: Complicated.