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Argie 15 with standing lug

Hi guys. I am building Dudley Dix's Argie 15. I am an amateur, having only built three small boats thus far, and I am often unconventional in my problem solving. I also like to be minimalistic and save money where ever possible often choosing practicality over aesthetics. Maybe I should build a Wharram. All advice welcome, and encouraged, but please don't take offence if I ignore it and go along my merry way. I'm not scared of making mistakes and learning the hard way at times. Thanks to Capefox's detailed build log, I have already avoided a lot of wasted hours I think.

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

Originally Posted by capefox

Is this a duplicate of your other thread? I built our Argie 15 from plans. Trust me, if we can do it, most people can.

Yes I followed your whole thread and read every word. You did a great job. The other thread was more about the sail. Now that it is sorted I thought I'd do a thread on the building sequence for anyone interested. Hey can I ask yiu....what are the benefits or purpose of the style of side/rub rails that you used. I can see there would be plenty of spots to tie stuff...any other pros?

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

Welcome to the building forum. You'll find lots of very experienced people here and they are more than willing to share their expertise. One caution - be specific with your questions. A general question will elicit a general answer which will probably provide little assistance. A specific question (especially if accompanied by photos) will usually result in quite a number of very detailed and helpful responses.

Good luck and post lots of photos.

As to your question - the "scuppered" rub rail does indeed provide lots of places to secure things. I've also read that it gives a stiffer rub rail. Best of all - it looks "shippy". Downside is that it takes longer to make and is a real bugger to varnish and keep varnished.

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

ffness and strength to the hullWhat are the benefits or purpose of the style of side/rub rails that you used. I can see there would be plenty of spots to tie stuff...any other pros?

I chose scuppered or spaced gunwales mostly for aesthetic reasons (they look more traditional to me) but they serve several practical purposes:
(a) they add stiffness and strength to the hull,
(b) more comfortable when you hike out on the gunwales in stronger breezes, and
(c) convenient lashing points.

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

Thanks Roy. I love the humour on here, a nice bunch of thick skinned blocks who don't mind a healthy debate and a good ribbing. Scuppered eh? There ya go, just learned something boaty

The other downside here in this part of Australia are the bloody mud wasps. They love to build their mud houses in nice little tucked away places, like buoyancy chambers when you leave the inspection ports off, as well as Oar Lock holes and I'm sure they would be rubbing their little "hands" together in hopeful anticipation while watching me make "Scuppered" rub rails. There not a stinging wasp...just annoying damn things with an affinity for constructing purpose built clumps of mud everywhere.

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

The plans call for laminated 20 x 40's or the like to make the centerboard. I have used a piece of 9mm ply then some scrap 6mm ply, then I will fiberglass both sides. I used 9mm ply to strengthen the centerboard casing as it's longer than the dagger board casing. I am not sure yet how to support it at the cockpit end. But having said that I am sure I will get a lot of suggestions now.

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

As you can see the side stringers (black lines on the side of the hull) will need to be moved up a little, This need is consistent with all of the bulkheads. Not sure what I did wrong there but an easy fix none-the-less.

So here is the centerboard casing dry fitted into the now divided middle seat aft riser and lined up using a string line. The gaps will be easily filled with goo and fiberglass tape.

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

Looking good. Quick question - when joining the panels did you use pre-made tape or cut your own from a larger piece of fiberglass? Did you grind away any plywood where the glass goes so that your final join is flush?

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

Originally Posted by Roy Morford

Looking good. Quick question - when joining the panels did you use pre-made tape or cut your own from a larger piece of fiberglass? Did you grind away any plywood where the glass goes so that your final join is flush?

Hi Roy. Thanks for that. It's kind of excitiing as it comes together. I just used some pieces cut from a roll of 100mm wide fiberglass. I didn't shave off any ply. It's only one piece either side and I'm not that worried about aesthetics really. I build to the old rule...''If you can't see it standing back 10 feet it's all good''. I build them to use rather than to impress.

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

I'd highly recommend using strips that are cut diagonally to the edges of the FG cloth. They are easier to fair, follow curved surfaces well, and supposedly distribute loads better. One place you may wish to really be careful about taping is the outside of the hull near the bow. The tape has the potential to be a little more obvious/stand proud on the chines closer to the bow.

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

Originally Posted by Roy Morford

I believe Capefox was referring to taping the outside seams. You haven't posted a picture of that yet. Have you taped the outside seams yet?

Were you Capefox? Apologies if you were. But I won't be doing that...defeats the purpose of buying rolls of tape and I've never had a problem before. All my epoxy joins are also thickened with talc only. I once had a boat I built this way come off a trailer at 100km an hour and hit an embankment. Bits that were joined with epoxy/talc tore out the whole piece ply around them....the joints didn't budge though. Pretty convinced the old talc and tape are plenty strong enough.

Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

So this has become a challenge. This was to be the aft middle seat riser which the dagger-board case was going to butt up against. Adding a swinging centerboard means cutting through this riser to accommodate the swinging centerboard case which swings up past it. So here it is. Dudley just gives you the dimensions and you have to work it out for yourself. It ain't rocket science and there is probably a few ways to go about it but this is my take on it. This is just sitting there at the moment. I intend to cut out the hole in the bottom of the boat first then install this whole piece at the same time. A bit more complicated then just installing the seat risers as per the original instructions. But now it's done, I'm feeling pretty chuffed.