Dog in Balancehttp://doginbalance.com
the DOG blog that can help YOUMon, 22 Jul 2013 01:55:20 +0000en-UShourly1https://wordpress.org/?v=4.0.24Bounce Backhttp://doginbalance.com/bounce-back/
http://doginbalance.com/bounce-back/#commentsSat, 01 Jun 2013 10:00:32 +0000http://doginbalance.com/?p=50As we introduce a dog or puppy to the world we expect it to function in, we want to send the message that life with us is good. You (the dog) are safe. What may seem a bit weird and unsettling is not a threat. To do this we must log (have the dog or […]

As we introduce a dog or puppy to the world we expect it to function in, we want to send the message that life with us is good. You (the dog) are safe. What may seem a bit weird and unsettling is not a threat. To do this we must log (have the dog or puppy go through/experience) as many positive experiences as we can. In doing this, we will inevitably encounter things and situations that push the dog out of its comfort zone and elicit a fear response. How we handle these situations will have a big impact on the how the dog will handle stressful situations in the future. Experiences can make or break a dog. Many people, upon seeing their animal stressed and afraid, try to comfort them. This habit reinforces the opposite of what we want…a fearful dog. Some people swoop in, rescue the dog and exit stage left as fast as they can. With this practice the dog logs a negative experience, which is again the opposite of what we want. Some people, upon seeing the dog in distress, leave it to fend completely for itself. This practice, given enough time, could go either way depending on the volatility of the situation at hand and the individuals involved. Our goal is for the dog to have enough time to process the flood of neurochemicals and the shot of adrenaline that accompanies a fear response and calm down enough to think (as opposed to reacting and panicking). Then we need to stick around long enough for the experience to BECOME a positive one. The more opportunities a dog has to go through this sequence, the better its recovery or bounce back will be. In future new and stressful situations it will take less time for the dog to stop reacting and start playing or relaxing. Soon, with a plethora of positive experiences logged in, the dog will be less likely to react in the first place.

How can we help facilitate this process? Well, we can start by not shying away from mildly stressful situations for the animal. By starting with relatively mild stressful situations we stand a good chance of a successful run in a reasonable amount of time. If we put the dog in a situation where it is in way over its head, we may not have enough time to see the dog through to a positive result. We would walk away having logged only a big negative experience. It is our responsibility to size up a situation with our dog in mind. Whether by nature (genetics) or early nurture, dogs will vary in their tendency to be sensitive and/or reactive. We must also factor in the time, energy, and patience we have available.

We can also have an impact on how many interactions play out. For example when I introduced an 8 week old miniature schnauzer puppy to my very young at heart (like Peter Pan) 11 year old aussie, I chose a time when the aussie was a bit tired….after playing fetch. I chose a location where there was plenty of space to maneuver….outside. I started with a well-rested puppy and I had plenty of time to see it through. Upon seeing the aussie, the puppy (whose only previous experience with dogs was with miniature schnauzers…..its littermates and relatives) screamed intensely and hid behind me. I ignored the scared, pitiful puppy, took a step away, and set about loving on my aussie and exploring the immediate surroundings with her. Why? Because my aussie would prefer to play with the puppy rougher than what the puppy is ready for. By rougher, I mean rolling around, spinning, maybe throwing a paw the puppies way. The puppy could be bumped or steam rolled by a bigger dog that can hardly wait to play. I can help the situation by buying time for the puppy to process those distress neurochemicals. Little by little, when they sniff or come near each other (I give each exchange a few seconds and then I move on, sometimes distracting the aussie, when excitement levels rise) the puppy’s fear response gets smaller and smaller, eventually the puppy is seeking her out, then following, then chasing, then play bowing. They both enjoy a walk about through the woods. The puppy walks away with a positive experience. During our next walk about, the puppy is only tense when they are checking each other out. She is still a bit inhibited with her one-on-one play with my aussie, but is mostly relaxed, happy, and playful. Our next walk about is full of puppy butt-tucking and silly antics from both the 11 year old and the puppy. As the puppy now plays with a bit more reckless abandon, incidental contact by a rolling or spinning aussie is taken in context. Even if the puppy gets stepped on or bumped, it recovers quickly instead of jumping to, forming, and walking away with a “big scary red dog (or worse…any non miniature schnauzer) is bad news for me” attitude (which may have happened if those first few interactions were left unchecked). The next walk about, I add another aussie (this one is 15, mostly deaf, and bit grumpy at times). No screaming puppy. Based on her previous experiences, she is optimistic about this one. I manage their interactions in the same way….moving the old dog on before the excitement levels rise. Within just a few moments, the puppy is relaxed and playful. We have a lovely walk about. After the next walk about, they all do great even in close quarters/inside, but with no super highly coveted things (like food, rawhides, etc.) around….that scenario plays out a little farther down the road.

I have bounce back in mind wherever I take this puppy….a new floor, a new room, a park, in the rain. I try to plan ahead, allotting plenty of time for the puppy to get over any feelings of being scared, unsure, and vulnerable and start having fun. The more times I do this, the less time it takes for the stress to dissipate, the puppy to recover, and a positive experience to ensue. The puppy logs many positive experiences and develops excellent bounce back. As its ability to process this sequence of events improves, so does its confidence. Soon it is walking into new situations and sizing them up….expecting to have a good time. The puppy is becoming more optimistic.

]]>http://doginbalance.com/bounce-back/feed/4Problem Solvinghttp://doginbalance.com/problem-solving/
http://doginbalance.com/problem-solving/#commentsSat, 01 Jun 2013 09:00:02 +0000http://doginbalance.com/?p=51Many companion animals are catered to in their day to day living. Owners promptly alleviate what stress they can as soon as they can. Gratification is instant. What happens then when an animal’s sum of life experiences are such that it has received what it wanted when it wanted doesn’t get its way? What happens […]

]]>Many companion animals are catered to in their day to day living. Owners promptly alleviate what stress they can as soon as they can. Gratification is instant. What happens then when an animal’s sum of life experiences are such that it has received what it wanted when it wanted doesn’t get its way? What happens when direct access (I see….I want it….I go straight to it and get it….if that doesn’t work my owner/well trained staff steps in and helps me get it) doesn’t work for this dog? The answer is frustration, often a fit, and a flood of neurochemicals associated with frustration and stress. Sometimes even adrenalin enters the scene. Sometimes aggression. How we choose to handle navigating the world at large with our canine friend influences the dog we end up with in the long run.

Well adjusted dogs have the ability to solve problems while maintaining a level head. This ability is not a trait dogs are born with (although some dogs are certainly more clever and/or more motivated than others), it is one that is developed by actually solving problems. With experience, solving the problems that life presents becomes no big deal (no reason for intense emotional responses). With experience and success, comes confidence.

Working on problem solving is really all about recognizing and maximizing opportunities. Opportunities are everywhere in our day to day lives with companion animals. Giving a dog time (without adding pressure) to work through problems and find success on the other side builds a thinking and intuitive dog.

Let’s start with a simple example. I have just taken a puppy outside to go potty. We are headed back inside….the puppy is happily following me back in. I open the door, walk through, and giving the puppy plenty of room to come through I stand out of the way and ready to close the door. The puppy (who in this case and this moment still wants to be with me…it is not distracted…it is not hoping to stay outside) stops short in the would be path of the door I need to close. Three possible courses of action cross my mind. 1) I could pick up the sweet, snugly little puppy and hold it while I close the door. 2) I could speak sweetly to the puppy and either prompt or lure the puppy through and safely out of the way, then close the door. 3) I could slowly, carefully, and patiently (inch by inch, maybe centimeter by centimeter, or even millimeter by millimeter) close the door….being sure to give the puppy an abundance of time to see what’s happening and figure out how to maneuver itself around the VERY slowly closing door to end up inside with me. Time permitting, I choose option 3 and celebrate the brilliance of said puppy as it completes this simple task….navigating around the closing door. More than that, when I’m outside and deciding when to head back inside, I allot time for option 3. I make time for option 3. Within a few repetitions of this particular scenario, I have a puppy who is sizing up this situation (reading the relevant context clues) and marching in and out of the way of the path of the door UNPROMPTED. This behavior will come in handy in the future when I’m coming inside with the puppy, my arms full, and I’m watching my 3 year old son while simultaneously holding two separate conversations with our 5 year old son and 8 year old daughter. Do I always have time for option 3? NO! I have 3 small children and a very playful husband. Our house is chaos. When I don’t have time, I opt for either option 1 or 2. BUT, because it is these kinds of option 3 experiences that build a stable, thinking dog and often what feels like an intuitive dog (which is what I ultimately want and what will save me time in the long run), I make it a point to make time for as many of these kinds of solutions to play out as I can.

In the above example, a small amount of stress is placed on the puppy. This is not a bad thing.

Every dog NEEDS and should have an opportunity to process stress (even if it looks like an emotional roller coaster) and come out on the other side successful and victorious. REPEATEDLY. With repeated experiences of this nature, dogs learn to size up situations and think through them without undue stress, distress, or panic. Delayed gratification becomes no big deal. We need to find and allow time for opportunities of this nature to play out in order for the dog to realize the benefits of sizing up a situation and gain the ability to maintain its composure and the ability to think.

A great way to help facilitate these experiences is to set up situations where the dog has a clear/direct line of sight to a “draw” (something the dog wants or someone the dog wants to be with) but it is only accessible via an indirect course or path. A great way to set situations like this up is to partially block access to the draw with something the dog can see through, but not go through…like an x-pen or woven wire fence panel. What typically happens when a dog is presented with a situation like this is that it first tries the direct access approach. I see it…I want it…I will go directly to it. When this approach doesn’t work, the dog gets frustrated. It may even come unglued as adrenalin kicks in. I wait patiently and quietly. Eventually, the dog settles down and then starts to look around….where upon it finds its way to the draw. Success! If I set up simple scenarios or take advantage of naturally presented simple scenarios and let the dog work through them, the dog gains the crucial experiences that help build a thoughtful, less reactive dog. It will be better equipped to process, handle, and work through more difficult scenarios that may lie ahead in life and in TRAINING. The dog not only learns how to learn and problem solve, but also how to maintain a level head…puzzles and problems no longer cause distress. When you help a dog become an efficient problem solver and prioritize building a partnership/a relationship/a bond/an optimism, you develop a confident learner that is (thanks to that budding partnership) willing and eager to work with and for you.

Be the good guy, but not the hero. If the dog stalls out before the problem is solved, consider reminding it of the draw or help as little as possible. Help the dog discover the solution, don’t solve the problem for it.

]]>http://doginbalance.com/problem-solving/feed/1Leaders and Etiquettehttp://doginbalance.com/leaders-and-etiquette/
http://doginbalance.com/leaders-and-etiquette/#commentsSat, 01 Jun 2013 08:01:50 +0000http://doginbalance.com/?p=547In the last post (Lead) we looked at group dynamics and some of the character traits that make for a great leader. Now let’s look at how a good leader helps a group function more like a community. If a leader’s actions aren’t about competing for resources, what are they about? In order for a […]

In the last post (Lead) we looked at group dynamics and some of the character traits that make for a great leader. Now let’s look at how a good leader helps a group function more like a community. If a leader’s actions aren’t about competing for resources, what are they about?

In order for a leader to be able to lead a group effectively and efficiently (which is what keeps the group safe), group members must be responsible for two things.

They must pay attention to what the leader is doing and not get in his (or her) way (e.g., where he is going, how he reacts to any given circumstance).

They must be respectful or hold themselves back.

Social corrections or big behavioral exchanges involving a leader and a group member identify and address a lapse in one of these two crucial behavioral codes of conduct. They are not typically motivated by comfort and resources. This kind of social correction (from the leader) is about teaching and holding group members accountable and are usually received well (as in “sorry….my bad!”)….as a small part of a much bigger, beneficial relationship with a leader they’ve opted to follow….a leader who is leading the group they want to be a part of. It is easy to think of regular, everyday exchanges when we talk about these two things, but it is important to remember that, in nature, responding (or not responding) to these two codes of conduct could mean the difference between survival and dismal failure, injury, and even death.

These are unwritten but understood codes of conduct…..let’s call them etiquette. In functional and healthy groups, all members (including the leader) abide by these codes of conduct. Be aware of others (most importantly, be aware of the leader). Hold yourself back (have self control). Following this etiquette enables an animal to notice and read subtle body language cues and relevant contextual clues which, in turn, enables it to respond in an appropriate (and successful) manner. This approach leads to easy and very efficient communication within the group. It enables a group of individuals to behave as one group….to live in harmony….to be a community.

Can we use this etiquette to make communicating with our dog easy and efficient and to help our pack live in harmony and function efficiently in the very human world we live in? YES. For now, don’t think in terms of socially correcting your dog. Instead, concentrate on teaching and maintaining standards of this etiquette. For information on how to do exactly that, be sure to read the posts in the “Space is Important” category (space and etiquette are closely related topics).

]]>http://doginbalance.com/leaders-and-etiquette/feed/1LEADhttp://doginbalance.com/lead/
http://doginbalance.com/lead/#commentsSat, 01 Jun 2013 08:00:29 +0000http://doginbalance.com/?p=27When it comes to dogs, it is common to hear people speak of dominance….a dominant dog, a dominance problem, maybe they have been told that they need to be the dominant one in the household, pack, or their relationship with a dog. Often people think of dominance when what they need to focus on is […]

When it comes to dogs, it is common to hear people speak of dominance….a dominant dog, a dominance problem, maybe they have been told that they need to be the dominant one in the household, pack, or their relationship with a dog. Often people think of dominance when what they need to focus on is leadership. These two terms are not the same. They are not interchangeable. Dominant does not mean leader.

To understand why dominant does not mean leader, we need to understand the natural dynamics of a healthy, functional group of social animals. Dogs, like horses and many other social animals, are designed by nature to live in groups. They are designed to seek out and bond with company that will help facilitate their survival. Within any given group, you’ll likely find a wide range of personalities. These can range from calm and confident to dominant, pushy, and bossy to meek, cautious, and reserved….from laid back and easy going to uptight and high strung. The structure within a group is maintained through highly ritualized exchanges of behavior that keep order. These exchanges almost always revolve around the give and take of space and resources. Group members vie for rank within the group by engaging in these highly ritualized exchanges of behavior involving space and resources. Simply put, the more dominant personalities take and try to control space and resources. The higher the rank achieved literally means the more comfort afforded.This pecking order is not fixed/static…it changes based on things like health, vigor, and age….it is maintained through many subtle everyday displays and exchanges of behavior.

By nature, group social animals are designed to vie (compete or push) for rank. This is where dominance factors in. Good leadership isn’t about that. At all. Good leaders keep the group safe and fed. With good leadership in play, group members feel safe and secure. The group as a whole functions as a community. Group members are able to draw confidence from their steadfast leader. In times of stress or distress, group members look to the leader and then follow its lead.

Within every group animal is a potential group member, but not necessarily the ability to be a naturally good leader. Good natural leaders have and develop in those they lead a sense of community. They are socially agile and often kind, fun, and flirtatious. They are sensible and have a natural awareness of the needs of the group and even individual preferences. They are smart, confident, and have excellent problem solving skills.

“The challenge of leadership is to be strong, but not rude; be kind, but not weak; be bold, but not bully; be thoughtful, but not lazy; be humble, but not timid; be proud, but not arrogant; have humor, but without folly.” — Jim Rohn

Good leaders inspire others to follow them. Given free choice, would your dog nominate you to lead him? Does your dog view you as a leader? If these questions make you hesitate, keep reading to find out how to improve your leadership skills and become a better leader for your dog.

]]>http://doginbalance.com/lead/feed/2Considering feelingshttp://doginbalance.com/considering-feelings/
http://doginbalance.com/considering-feelings/#commentsSat, 01 Jun 2013 07:02:33 +0000http://doginbalance.com/?p=311Even the most timid and insecure animal can flourish given enough time and the right circumstances (especially when a strong bond with good leadership is in play). It all begins with love, understanding, and putting a bit of thought into how we prepare our dogs for and introduce our dogs to elements of the world we want and expect […]

Even the most timid and insecure animal can flourish given enough time and the right circumstances (especially when a strong bond with good leadershipis in play). It all begins with love, understanding, and putting a bit of thought into how we prepare our dogs for and introduce our dogs to elements of the world we want and expect it to function in. Animals need an opportunity to access and process new environments and input without adrenaline coursing through their system. We can help them navigate by keeping distance and stress levels in mind as we introduce our dogs to new, potentially uncomfortable or scary (for them!) situations. It is our responsibility not to put the dog in WAY over its head (where adrenaline takes over and rules the mind of the dog….be sure to read this post on Intense Feelings). We just may need to readjust our priorities….putting the development of our lifelong friend, the dog, ahead of something else on our to-do list. Maybe we interrupt our neighborhood walk or jog to cross the street or pull way off to the side while whatever it is that your dog is afraid of (a person, a person walking a dog, a bike, a car, etc.) goes by or maybe we stop our walk short of the yard where the dog always charges its invisible fence line as you go by. Actions like these on our part, can change what is usually a big reaction (maybe even a display of aggression) into a teachable moment. Being aware of and manipulating distance can set your dog up for success and progress in training (see space is important to dogs). As you venture out into the world at large with your dog, pay attention to the stress level of your dog and to the distance between the dog and whatever it is you’re introducing it to…try to keep the dog in a teachable state of mind and try to avoid tripping those intense “increase distance” directives.

We can also proactively help our canine friends become better able to handle and process stress and distress in general. Be sure to read about how to help your dog develop Problem Solving and Bounce Back skills. These two life skills together with a strong bond, good leadership (which can change the way interactions between you and your dog feel), and a bit of brainwashing (some may know that as classical conditioning) can enable you and your dog to successfully navigate the world as we know it with much less drama.

]]>http://doginbalance.com/considering-feelings/feed/0Intense Feelingshttp://doginbalance.com/intense-feelings/
http://doginbalance.com/intense-feelings/#commentsSat, 01 Jun 2013 07:01:04 +0000http://doginbalance.com/?p=308Understanding intense feelings. Intense feelings come with a veritable flood of neurochemicals (primarily, cortisol and adrenaline) associated with stress and the fight or flight response animals experience when they are afraid. Most of the aggression we see in dogs is fear- or insecurity-based. Dogs (and most animals) view the world in terms of safe, potentially unsafe, […]

Intense feelings come with a veritable flood of neurochemicals (primarily, cortisol and adrenaline) associated with stress and the fight or flight response animals experience when they are afraid. Most of the aggression we see in dogs is fear- or insecurity-based. Dogs (and most animals) view the world in terms of safe, potentially unsafe, and unsafe. When a dog feels unsafe and afraid, an increase-distance alarm goes off inside (fight or flight). With this comes a flood of neurochemicals associated with this emotional response and distress. A dog really only has 2 ways to accomplish this “increase-distance” directive. They can 1) move themselves (flight) or 2) move the root cause of their fear (fight). Every individual will have a preferred method of dealing with this “increase-distance” directive….either flight or fight. If and when its preferred course of action does not effectively increase distance or alleviate the distress, it will switch to the other option. This emotional response to fear, these feelings, have been a death sentence to many a dog. The distress emotions behind separation anxiety have cost many people thousands of dollars in damages to their household. Emotions are important. Teachable moments are not those that are laced with adrenaline and cortisol (think burglar in your house….shark circling you while you swim….bear circling your tent).

Identifying and being aware of potential triggers or situations that your dog has trouble with can enable you to plan ahead and be proactive with your management and training. Planning, being proactive, and putting the development of your dog first can help your dog learn to successfully navigate the world we live in with much less drama and stress. Success is the first step to building confidence. Try to identify what is hard for your dog. Be specific. Make a mental list. Does your dog have trouble with men? …men with beards? …people wearing hats? …people wearing glasses? …loud noises? …crowds? …other animals? …dog shows? …people coming into your home? …cars going by? …something else? Also, note that all things are a bit scarier by nature at night and in low lighting.

What can we do when we find ourselves and our dogs in WAY over our heads?

The alarm has been tripped….the dog has lost its mind….it’s committed to action. What now?

We can adjust/increase distance between the dog and whatever it is afraid of (which will help the dog resolve the “increase distance” directive it is experiencing). Also, know that time can change chemistry. Adrenaline dissipates…which can lead to a teachable moment. Adjustments of space/distance and buying time can give the dog an opportunity to succeed. Then think about how you can be more proactive in future similar situations to help set your dog up to succeed and actually benefit from the experience…without the fireworks. Future success will almost certainly involve some combination of management (good management can make manipulating those distances easy), leadership, and training (addressing underlying emotions, reinforcing better choices, and developing more socially acceptable coping skills). We’ll get into specific examples, situations, and considerations in future posts.

]]>http://doginbalance.com/intense-feelings/feed/0Feelingshttp://doginbalance.com/feelings/
http://doginbalance.com/feelings/#commentsSat, 01 Jun 2013 07:00:36 +0000http://doginbalance.com/?p=25Feelings are important. Life in general would be much easier if feelings weren’t such a major influence in how our day to day lives play out. They drive people (and animals) to action. Never underestimate the power of emotions. Feelings and emotions have driven people to suicide, to monumental sacrifice, to re-prioritize their life, to make incredibly poor […]

Life in general would be much easier if feelings weren’t such a major influence in how our day to day lives play out. They drive people (and animals) to action. Never underestimate the power of emotions. Feelings and emotions have driven people to suicide, to monumental sacrifice, to re-prioritize their life, to make incredibly poor choices and bold good choices, to stand up for what they believe in. Feelings are often the unconscious forces driving behavior. Feelings cause us to react, to put up or lower our defenses, to brace for impact, to laugh out loud, to cry uncontrollably, to worry about the things we cannot control, to give of ourselves, and on and on. Most often we do not decide how we are going to feel and then feel that way. It just happens…we feel…often intensely. We may be moved a little or a lot. Feelings may drive us to inspired performances, relaxed and tender moments, or debilitating displays of uncontrollable emotions. Feelings cause us to react, to put up or lower our defenses, to brace for impact Feelings are important. Feelings are also important in dogs.

This is an interesting topic. Just by using the word feelings and dog in the same sentence, causes mixed reactions in people. I think this is, in part, because we have long been cautioned not to anthropomorphise (which means to attribute human form or personality to things not human). Also, Merriam-webster.com lists 6 definitions and 170 synonyms and related words for the word “feelings”. The word “feelings” can mean many different things. When I speak of feelings and emotions in dogs, I am not referring to higher order emotions (like guilt, regret, mercy, humanity, etc.). Dogs learn from their past and live in the now. They view things in terms of unsafe, potentially unsafe, and safe. They form incredibly strong bonds with the other dogs, people, and even many other species (given the right circumstances). They are incredibly perceptive and sensitive to the energy being put out by others. They experience physical effects of emotional extremes….adrenaline, cortisol, endorphins. They are incredibly sentient beings with preferences (some of which are strong), favorites, and dislikes.

Feelings are certainly a driving force behind the behavior of a dog. They feel. Those feelings and emotions drive them to action. They may be moved a little or a lot. Feelings cause them to react, to put up or lower their defenses, to brace for impact. Feelings can drive dogs to inspired performances, relaxed and tender moments, or debilitating displays of uncontrollable emotions. We’ll dive further into this subject in the posts to follow, but for now the take home point is this…feelings and emotions in dogs play a major role in influencing their behavior.

More importantly….

What’s even more important than recognizing that feelings are important in this way is the knowledge that we can actually build, craft, shape, and change the underlying emotions in our friend, the dog.

As we introduce our dogs to the world at large, we can proactively help them develop the feelings we want them to have towards the things that they encounter…building the feelings that will help them be more functional, more tolerant, and less stressed. For example, by pairing loud noises with good news for them, loud noises become no big deal and even something to look forward to; something that predicts good things to come. New people….good news. New places….good news. New situations….good news.

We can change existing underlying emotions, the feelings that are driving a given behavior in a specific set of circumstances. With time and consistency (good management can help us be consistent), we can replace underlying negative emotions (like fear, distrust, insecurity, and anxiety) with more useful, positive ones.

We can emphasize the feel we want in any given behavior we are teaching….build the feel into the behavior. This can lead to inspired, intense performances, settled companions, and even soft, tender exchanges. I put a lot of emphasis on the feel I want in any given behavior I am teaching, reinforcing, encouraging, or replacing.

We’ll get much more into each of these three angles in future posts.

For now, I want you to think about the specific feeling of optimism….and helping your dog become more optimistic. Dictionary.com defines optimism as “a disposition or tendency to look on the more favorable side of events or conditions and to expect the most favorable outcome”. When dogs are optimistic about the exchanges they will have with us, the people they’ll meet, the places they’ll go, the situations they’ll encounter, they are ready, willing, and better able to a have a positive outcome. What can you do to help your dog become more optimistic?

]]>http://doginbalance.com/feelings/feed/40Training for awareness of personal spacehttp://doginbalance.com/training-for-awareness-of-personal-space/
http://doginbalance.com/training-for-awareness-of-personal-space/#commentsSat, 01 Jun 2013 06:04:18 +0000http://doginbalance.com/?p=293In the post The dog’s approach you learned how to improve the way your dog presents itself to you. Next we need to teach the dog to move out of our space. This may sound like a silly thing to teach, but our body language is inherently different than that of another species (in this case, the […]

In the post The dog’s approachyou learned how to improve the way your dog presents itself to you. Next we need to teach the dog to move out of our space. This may sound like a silly thing to teach, but our body language is inherently different than that of another species (in this case, the dog), and you need to be understood to be effective. I teach this in a very easy, progressive way. It is important to note that I START these exercises with a volunteer….one that is approaching me. For dogs, I walk towards the dog (small, slow, shuffling steps so the animal has plenty of time to size up the situation and respond accordingly). As the dog gives (starts to move out of my way….which they always do because I keep moving inch by inch, centimeter by centimeter, millimeter by millimeter), I toss a treat at or past the dog. This toss serves two purposes. First, it positively reinforces the dog for responding to or, at a minimum, thinking about responding to my body language in the way that I want. Second, it sets the dog up nicely for another approach to me….which gives the dog an opportunity to stop short of barging into my space to begin with. So, within a few repetitions of this exercise, the dog is already becoming more aware of my space and realizing that space is also important to me. It’s also starting to notice and decipher some of my body language. Soon the dog is stopping short of my personal space and looking hopeful. I reward this….tossing treats at or past it, loving on the dog in a way it likes and enjoys, or maybe changing the subject and initiating an activity it enjoys. I do this exercise in a training session context just long enough for the dog to start to have some understanding of how I want it to respond to my body language and that I appreciate it when the dog is aware of, moves out of, or stops short of barging into my personal space. I then pick moments when the dog is attentive to me but out of my space to approach the dog and have it move out of my now moving personal space….I move the same way (slow shuffling steps to begin with) and celebrate the dog’s brilliance as it identifies the new twist on a now familiar topic and moves out of my way. Good dog. Good choice. Good news for you.

I then start working on it in everyday exchanges with the dog. When the dog, unsolicited, comes barging into my space, I ignore it and at the same time shuffle my feet towards it. As it moves off of the impending path of my feet, thereby moving out of my personal space, I notice the dog….I may toss a treat or toy or I may just speak to it or offer up eye contact/my attention. I let the attention or good times flow so long as the dog or puppy is maintaining its composure. Should they become too pushy or obnoxious, the flow of attention stops. I can either disconnect, ignore the dog, and go about my business, or I can simply help the dog out of my space via the same technique….ignoring the dog as I move into it. As it vacates my space, I stop my movement towards them and either give more positive feedback or go about my business.

When a dog approaches and stops just short of breaching my space, I reinforce it in a way it finds pleasurable. I may offer up a “hello,” speak sweetly, deliver a treat quickly to where the dog is (on the boundary of my space with all four feet on the ground), or toss a treat past it. I may love on the dog in a way it enjoys, being sure to bring myself and the lovin’ that follows to the dog’s level so that there is no added incentive for it to dive further into my space. I may invite the dog into my personal space. With consistent exchanges of this nature, dogs get very good at identifying and staying clear of my personal space….no confusion….no drama. Now, when I invite them into my space it feels like a privilege….a gift. Now when they approach, they stop short of my space and look hopeful, optimistic, and ready. I then want to help them understand (in the same way) that space is important not only to me but to all human beings, little ones included.

Be sure to read Lead and Leaders and Etiquette, to fully understand why this particular skill is a very important one to work on with your dog.

]]>http://doginbalance.com/training-for-awareness-of-personal-space/feed/4Changing the broadcasthttp://doginbalance.com/changing-the-broadcast/
http://doginbalance.com/changing-the-broadcast/#commentsSat, 01 Jun 2013 06:03:55 +0000http://doginbalance.com/?p=290Now that you understand a bit about the concept of space and dogs, why it is important, and how it impacts how interactions and relationships unfold, let’s talk about what we can do to improve things with our furry friends….to disarm them, to help them have a more open broadcast, to help them become more […]

Now that you understand a bit about the concept of space and dogs, why it is important, and how it impacts how interactions and relationships unfold, let’s talk about what we can do to improve things with our furry friends….to disarm them, to help them have a more open broadcast, to help them become more optimistic about future approaches by us and others.

Adjusting and shaping the broadcast….

Ultimately we want and need the dog to be okay with our approach. To understand our body language. To associate it with good news. To look forward to it. Because space is important to animals and they occupy space in a very deliberate way, even a slow and thoughtful approach can be interpreted as a threat. Because not all humans approach animals or even move about their daily routines in a slow and thoughtful way, we can and should prepare the dog for a life with people. We need to shape the dog’s underlying emotions and teach it that many different kinds of approaches can mean good news for it (no strings attached). Practice approaching the dog and pairing that approach with good news…..deliver something the dog likes or loves. Start with slow and thoughtful approaches and gradually build to faster more direct approaches. Be sure to progress only when the dog is completely okay with the last type of approach and think small steps/incremental changes in difficulty for faster and smoother overall progress! The dog should see you coming and look forward to your approach. Hoping for more approaches. There should be no evidence of brace, nervousness, or fear.

When you pay attention to and purposely shape the broadcast in this manner, dogs start to trust (and eventually assume) that you are approaching with good intent, not threatening or challenging them and (with time) they get used to and eventually find comfort in the way you go about your day (some of us are naturally more calm and quiet than others!). Ultimately, we want a dog to be optimistic about our approach AND the approach of others.

]]>http://doginbalance.com/changing-the-broadcast/feed/0The dog’s approachhttp://doginbalance.com/the-dogs-approach/
http://doginbalance.com/the-dogs-approach/#commentsSat, 01 Jun 2013 06:02:28 +0000http://doginbalance.com/?p=285When a dog approaches us, the roles are reversed. We get to decide and dictate what is appropriate and acceptable. Space should be important to us. However, this is where things get convoluted. It’s easy to come up with reasons to always let the dog barge right in. Maybe you want the dog to like or love […]

When a dog approaches us, the roles are reversed. We get to decide and dictate what is appropriate and acceptable. Space should be important to us. However, this is where things get convoluted. It’s easy to come up with reasons to always let the dog barge right in. Maybe you want the dog to like or love you. It’s easier. Maybe you want the dog to be extra drivey (run hard and fast, tug like a fiend, and drive into you) to build drive, teach tight turns, and maximize their performance in dog sports. Listen to me now and hear me later….

YOUR DOG WILL STILL LOVE AND LIKE YOU. You can always invite your dog into your personal space. You can love on it until the cows come home. It will not affect the bond you share. In fact, it may even reveal a sweeter side of your dog.

IT IS WORTH THE EFFORT AND THE WAIT. Teaching your dog to confidently read your body language and pay attention to relevant context clues is a worthy and natural cause….a life skill every dog should acquire. Also, the best way to develop self control in a dog is to work on it in a way, a context, that speaks to the nature of the dog.

YOU CAN STILL TEACH YOUR DOG TO DRIVE INTO YOU HARD, FAST, AND FIENDISHLY. Remember, the point is to end up with a dog that efficiently reads body language cues, picks up on whatever open invitations you’re broadcasting, and responds appropriately. Your dog will be better able to read your body language and relevant context clues to determine what you want and when you want it…..it will be obvious and still a raging good time. This concept of space and building drive are not mutually exclusive. We’ll get more into drive building in future posts.