The Roofs

(28 routes)

Start in the obvious, short crack left of The Lonely Sea And The Sky. No Fixed anchor. Be aware of a very rare shrub in the gully. Climbed 3/12/13 but I assume it has been climbed before. First ascent unknown.

On the arête at the edge of the gully. Boulder to the bolt with chain links on small holds and climb past to easier ground with wire protection. Move left into the scoop, then back right to finish at the next route's anchor rings.

Start on the right side of the arête just left of “Scott Free”. Climb the right side of the arête past four bolts to belay as for Scott Free. There is a rest on the arête by the third bolt and you could bail out from here (but you would be cheating).

Start just right of the arête and about five metres left of the fence. Climb over the initial roof, then up the wall to finish slightly right into a left-facing corner. The top bolt is hidden above the bulge. Four bolts and anchor rings.

An obvious right-leaning crack about five metres left of the fence, by a seepage. Awkward moves off the ground lead up to the first roof. Over the roof into the groove above and up to the second roof. Move out right to the arête and climb the crack above to the chockstone. Exit up steep grass to a two ring anchor. Natural protection.

Goes to the right hand side of the quake scar, in the area where Rough Justice used to be.
Start on right side of rubble pile. Move rightwards onto ledge, then move upwards past faint crack and upwards to double rap station.

Bulging prow right of the gully, with hard pulling on small holds past the first bolt to a large jug. Climb left of the second bolt and then up the arete right of the third. Join the top of Chicane Licken, where a wire may provide reassurance for the finish. to either previous anchor or take larger wires to exit crack on R to DBA

Start in the centre of the wall beside a bush, where a thin crack curves up to a round pod. Direct to the pod (place wires), then nice moves into the round pod. Move left onto the wall, through a small roof then step left onto a ledge, and climb the final headwall with one bolt. just left.Easy pull over to start then cams and wires to a pod. Bolt instead of peg protects section of poor rock. Then good pro to bolts on R of ledge to DBA

Start beside a bush just right of In You Endo, then right to a bolt on the edge of a scoop. Move back left under the roof to the right edge of the round pod, then straight up the groove past another bolt. Easy finish with natural protection. Anchor at a large boulder or the next route's ring hangers.

From the right edge of the bush move up and clip the first bolt, step left, and climb straight over a bulge to a ledge. Layback past the last bolt to finish, with anchors to the left. Originally a Calum Hudson project.

Start 3-4 metres right of Hippocratic Oaf, on the right edge of the wall. Up the right-trending slabby groove following the crack, cross the overlap, clip the bolt and climb left and up (crux), then follow the weakness (tie off a knob, or run it out), trending left to finish. One bolt, sling, and wire. Anchor as for previous route.

Starts just left of the old fence line. From the left, boulder up the wall to the first bolt. Climb through the roofs using the arête on the right and pull onto the head wall to a rest. Move right along the break and climb the exposed arête. Finish up easy rock to a single bolt well back from the edge. Four bolts.

About one metre right of the fence, through a series of roofs. Start below and right of the first bolt, move up to good holds (awkward), then steep climbing past the second and third bolts leads to a long reach to pass the third roof, thus gaining a standing position in a left-facing capped corner at the fourth bolt. Move left to the rib and finish up easy ground to a single bolt anchor. Five bolts.

Starts about two metres right of the fence and climbs a series of roofs. Start below and left of the first bolt and gain a standing position on the blunt rib, then move up the steep groove on poor holds (awkward). Climb under the roof to the lip, then up the final groove over a loose block to easy climbing and the anchor above. Five bolts.

Sidles the roof seven metres right of the fence. Start just right of the bottomless corner and climb the wall past a bolt to the corner; then move rightward under the huge roof. Climb through the notch at the edge of the roof and straight up the overhanging wall above with good natural protection to anchor rings.