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Those are popular knives, and seem to be very a very common first "real" j-knives that many folks start with. I've never used your exact knife, but have played with a white #2 version and I do own other semi-stainless blades at similar HRC, so I can say with fair certainty that you picked a good one.

OTB edges are very seldom sharpened to their maximum potential for low angle and high sharpness, which is for many reasons, not the least of which is to add some strength and durability (to the slight detriment of performance) in order to slightly hedge against the lowest common denominator of users.

You can almost always improve them dramatically with just a few minutes on strop of fine waterstone.
Use the "sharpie trick": color in the primary edge bevel on both sides with a sharpie:
(it will be a very thin line (fractions of a mm) and possibly slightly different on each side.)
-Easiest way I've found to do this is to lay the edge a the heel at a slight angle against the SIDE of the marker tip and draw the blade back across it with very light pressure. (do it for each side).

-Then take it to a fine water stone or strop and use "edge trailing" strokes (edge is pointed away from the direction of travel) to remove the sharpie.

- Use very light pressure (not much more than the weight of the knife)

- Start with a VERY acute angle so you are hitting an area actually slightly above your sharpie line, then gradually increase it so you creep down to the line and eventually the edge.

Just a few passes per side and you should take an "OK" factory edge to something probably sharper than you have ever felt before. You can experiment with setting new/ your own angles months later once it gets dull past what a strop or finishing stone can help.

Based on what you said about your background and your affinity for details, I could see you enjoying an angle cube, jewelers loop, and Edge Pro.
I was freehand sharpening for years before I bought my EP, but when I bought my first "good" knife which (which cost more than the sum total of all of the other kitchen knives I'd used up to that point), I was a bit intimidated to freehand it and the results I was getting where not fantastic (didnt help that it was made from tricky sg2 steel). The EP was a learning tool for me. It helped me to understand the effects of different angles (and compound angles) on cutting performance and edge retention, as well as different grit progressions and levels of polish. As I built my confidence and understanding, and started transitioning back to freehand, the EP was useful for setting an initial bevel that I could then follow freehand using the sharpie trick.

Bottom line is have fun with your knives!!! Don't stress too much about the process. You can experiment with your old Sab's if you want, but, as long as you take it slow and pay attention to what you're doing, it's almost impossible to screw up your new HD beyond repair.
Don't worry about taking it to a pro sharpener right away: there are only 2 in the country that I would pay / trust with my knives (Dave of Japanese knife sharpening and " J.Bro" of Japanese Knife Imports). Just think of them like a safety net: if you get "stuck" or feel like you've made a hole that you're not comfortable sharpening you're way out of alone, they can "make it better", but given your thoughtfulness and approach thus far, I'd bet that it will never come to that.

It's always fun to hear new folk's impressions for their first "good" knives so please keep us updated with your experience (pics req!), and ask questions if / when you have them.

I appreciate the advice and will try to study up on the sharpening. I called them today to check on my order and it seems they are making a Saya for it. I assumed since this brand had the option to come with a Saya that it would be pulled from a box of pre-made Saya.