The motor could be the only problem, or the control could also affect the motor, since it determines which speed to send voltage to in order to wash. There's a tech sheet inside the machine control panel for you to read and check this out. It gives the resistance readings for the motor so you can rule it out (or in).

As with any diagnostic procedure, you will have to own a volt/ohm meter and know how to use it.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

Note to Al Capone. Sears beat the prescribed keep to the site stuff that I had been briefed on(this time).Mucho thanks to the illustrious Reggie the booty shaking US patent office savant. I gotta say this. I would not spend any money fixing this crappy washer. My opinion.Probably the motor but it could very well be the tranny. Either way. Can it and get a cheap kenmore top loader. This washer is a hole you throw money in. Quote me.

« Last Edit: October 15, 2008, 10:07:25 PM by JWWebster »

Logged

May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL