I just bought a bow after rifle hunting for a long time. I won't name names, but the guy at the shop where I bought it seemed pretty knowledgeable and I had him install my Spot-Hogg Hunter sight, rest, etc.

I've shot a few different times, and no matter how I adjust the sight I'm consistently hitting left of my aiming point. My friend (already a bowhunter) and I did more than just the standard adjustments, I actually adjusted how the sight is mounted to move the entire sight further left. All that and no real change, I'm still hitting left (but in tighter, more consistent groups as I've shot more the past couple weeks). At this point I'm convinced that the way I'm holding the bow or looking through my peep/sight is incorrect and that's causing me to shoot left, no matter how the sight is adjusted.

Two questions:

Does anyone have suggestions of what I may be doing wrong?

Is there a good shop/range where a professional could watch me shoot and help dial in the sight. Hopefully they can point out what I'm doing wrong and we can correct it in the process.

I am "not" an expert by no means but I would say you may be torqueing your bow. Once your bow has been tuned (paper, walk back tuned) and initial pins are pretty much set (hitting the same POI windage/elevation at 20, 30, 40, etc.) and "then" you start hitting left, you may not be using a consistent anchor point, "or", be gripping your bow handle too tightly resulting in pulls to the left (talking right handed shooter here). Remember, when your bow "goes off" for the lack of a better term, it should be somewhat of a surprise. Try to watch your arrow fly through the peep (not really possible all the way through the shooting cycle but it keeps you in the correct position at release and follow through) once you touch off your release, your bow should in theory fall away from your grip (don't grip it too tight, some what open handed perhaps only touching the index finger and thumb of your left hand) being caught in essence by your bow sling. Just my meager .02.

You're too far away or I'd invite you over and we'd do some bow tuning and practice a bit. Perhaps take it back to the shop and explain what you're going through. Most shops are pretty good at helping a person out who bought a bow there. Paper tuning is a good start to ensure your rest and nock point (D loop) are set up correctly. Then walk back tuning will get the final bugs out of your tune (that's usually results in very, very minor tweaking of your rest and nock point). Once that is done, set your pins and continue to work on your form and consistent release... Once you're burning them in pretty decently at pre determined yard markers, then, you should move to broad head tuning to finalize the process. Again, no expert by no means but that's the drill I always go through with a new bow, or, picking up the old bow after a long winter layover to ensure all is well. RJ

Make sur that your anchor points are consistent, nose on the string, nickelBehind the jaw, etc.

A problem I have whileShooting my bow, is that irony like to cover up the target with my pin. I like to be able to see where I am aiming. Practice, practice, practice and you will find what works for you. Just remember that consistency is key while shooting a bow.

Might sound weird but I started teaching a guy how to shoot and he constantly looks through the wrong eye. If you knock and arrow, and hold the rest up, your pins will usually end up just outside of your arrow. Where have you been shooting at?

Guessing your are shooting right handed? Seems like righties tend to shoot left from little reading I have done.Sounds like torquing a bit to me as well. I have seen (and done) two types of torquing of the bow myself.

Hand torque - probably the most common. If you look at experienced or pro shooters, many shoot open handed, that is to relax the hand and not hand torque. You don't want to squeeze the grip of the bow, you want the pressure of the bow at full draw to hold it in the meat of your hand. Even open hand you can torque, because you need to do it the same every single time. practice practice practice. I use a hybrid style hold that has helped me be more consistent. I make the "OK" sign with my bow hand. Tip of pointer finger to tip of thumb and I make or round, not pinching grip with my thumb. This makes for an easy to repeat tactile grip as well as more secure grip on bow.

Arm torquing - this one I still run into problems with time to time. I will get into shooting position and when I come up I am left or right of my intended target. rather than twist at the waist I move my bow arm. I can tell when I have done it right on release as usually my bow will jump left or right on release. This just takes practice and being aware of how you are aiming. Something I am still working on myself at times.

As for setup. I am again new, but I have found it best to setup the bow so it is comfortable to you is important. There are certain base things on stance that we need to maintain, but beyond that setting the bow to work with a natural draw and hold helps. Lot more experienced guys ehre than me but what has worked for me is to draw the bow repeatedly with my eyes closed and settle into a shooting position naturally while at the shop with the tuner. Let them see your draw as well as your natural hold, then hopefully they can set the sights and peep to match it for you as well as give you a few little things to maybe change or adjust.

How far left? 6 inches at 20 yards or just an inch? Try tweaking your arrow rest 1/16 of an inch usually this won't mess with the tune bit will correct your problem, if that doesn't help probably form.

I'm guessing you're off about 2-3" left of center at 20 yards. If so, you might me either popping the trigger instead of a smooth, steady pull, or you're pushing the bow with your left hand toward the target upon release. Torquing, as stated earlier, may also be the cause. Make sure you're not gripping the bow tightly.

Logged

"Restricting the rights of law-abiding citizens based on the actions of criminals and madmen will have no positive effect on the future acts of criminals and madmen. It will only serve to reduce individual rights and the very security of our republic." - Pianoman

How far left? 6 inches at 20 yards or just an inch? Try tweaking your arrow rest 1/16 of an inch usually this won't mess with the tune bit will correct your problem, if that doesn't help probably form.

Thanks JBar - I'll definitely have them check my arrow rest when I take it in. I was off about 6" at 20 yards

I would agree with pianoman. There is also the possibility you are pushing your bow to the left or dropping your bow as you are releasing the arrow in attempts to see where you arrow hits. I notice at times that I sometimes do this when tired or having a bad shooting day and instead of following through on the shot I move the bow to see where the arrow hits. It is key to not grip or torque your bow, have consistent anchor point, pull through the shot, and watch your arrow impact through the sight guard (follow through). There is a lot of experience on this forum way more than me, but these are the things that I focus on especially when having a tough day at the range. Sometimes you have to chalk it up to a bad day.

You have been adjusting it to fix/tune it and likely its now way out. Go to shop get it retuned/sighted. Maybe turn down limbs some and concentrate on form at 20y. Do not move back until you correct your form. If its tuned correct then its torque likely. I did have a Bowtech years back that would tune but not shoot accurate due to manufacture/milling defect. Bowtech did not honor it.

I find it hard to believe they wouldn't honor an actual defect but that's not the point of this thread.

Do you shoot with both eyes open? It's nearly impossible to diagnose without seeing you shoot but if the bow was actually tuned, my money is on an eye dominance issue.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

All good advice! Research Tomkat bow and you will learn about holes not drilled exactly correct. They replaced limbs twice and told me I had to use whisker biscuit cause it was designed for that rest! I almost drove to Eugene. All I asked for was store credit. Just something to think about, some bows may be built wrong??

I've seen this happen before. Always left no matter what. Has perfect tune and shoots great for someone else. Check your draw length. If its too long for you, it can do just what your saying. A full draw picture showing the string at your face should tell the story.

Well I didn't make it into a bow shop on Friday as planned, was out in Area 11 confirming that the 2017 crabbing season is just as terrible as 2016 was. Thanks again for all the advice, I may shoot a little more tonight to try out a few of these things before I take it in