Autococker SR FAQ

THIS IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION. I DON'T KNOW EVERYTHING. IF SOMETHING IS WRONG/MISSING AND YOU CAN FIX IT, POST THE INFORMATION! I'll credit you with the answer. If you have any questions you think should be answered, ask.

Frequently Asked QuestionsQ: How much does it cost?Iram: At the time of this writing, MAP is currently $400.

Q: How efficient is the SR?A:

Q: How much does it weigh?A: My SR is 2 pounds, 3.5 ounces without the barrel or battery. I've replaced the stock ASA with a CP Mini On/Off, so the stock SR is probably a LITTLE heavier.

Q: How fast can an SR shoot in semi?Iram: As fast as you can pull the trigger.

Q: What modes does it come with?Iram: The SR comes stock with what is essentially a stripped down Yakuza board. You have semi, capped semi, PSP Response, PSP 50% ramp, PSP 100% ramp, PSP 3 Burst, NXL, Auto Response, 50% ramp, 100% ramp, 3 round burst, and full auto. All of the modes can be capped anywhere from 10 bps to 25 bps, plus there is an option for an unlimited BPS on all modes. You can set a separate cap for eyes on and eyes off.

Q: Is the SR legal for the new PSP 13 BPS rules?Iram: YES! Unlike the eblades where you have to screw with your timing settings and cross your fingers, the SR can easily be adjusted down to shoot 13 bps.

Q: Whatís the operating pressure?Iram: Out of the box, the high pressure reg is set to 300 psi.

Q: Does it have a lot of kick?Iram: The kick is similar to a Timmy or an ego without a zick kit. The kick is significantly less than older ecockers like the Karni or Black Magic.

Q: Are there any upgrades for it?Iram: There arenít many SR-specific upgrades currently on the market. WGP has advertised color contrast kits, but they havenít made it to the market. As far as I know, there is only one of those kits thatís even made it beyond the WGP factory, and thatís currently owned by Blueís Crew. The SR will take standard autococker threaded barrels, etek (ego5/6) feednecks, rail mounted ASAs, Trilogy-style valves, and standard inline regulators. Alamo City also makes a few types of bolts for the SR.

Q: I've heard autocockers break down a lot and are hard to maintain. Is that true?Iram: NO! Autocockers are extremely easy to maintain. All you need to do is put a couple drops of oil in the ASA (3-in-1 is recommended by WGP) and cycle air threw it after every 3-4 days of play, and re-grease the bolt o-rings. Most autococker problems are caused by inexperienced kids trying to take apart a gun that doesnít need it. If you read the manual and follow it's instructions, you'll be fine.Note: Iram and VICE_ROY disagree on this. VICE_ROY wrote a nice guide to cleaning the SR that's in the post below. Due to the length of VICE_ROY's guide, I'm not going to try to combine it with this post.

Q: Will the SR take standard autococker parts?Iram: Not really. A few small parts (barrel, inline regulator, IVG, some screws) are compatible, most things arenít. The SR uses a new style of fully enclosed pneumatics, so older rams/LRPs wonít fit.

Q: Does it have a rail for an on/off?Iram: Yes, there is a rail built into the bottom of the frame.

Q: How's the trigger?Iram: The SR trigger is an "S" curve style trigger that uses a magnetic return (with the magnet attracting) and activates a standard microswitch. The trigger is adjustable for the front stop, rear stop, and return force. Thereís about a half millimeter of side-to-side play.

Q: I just bought an SR. What should I upgrade?Iram: On most guns Iíd tell you to play with it first before upgrading, but personally I found that the stock barrel and ASA are inadequate. The barrel is sized 0.689Ē, which is too big for most paint and will cause rollouts, so Iíd recommend getting a tight bore barrel or a barrel kit. Second, the pin in the On/Off ASA sticks out too far, making it impossible to turn off with many tanks (Iíve tested PMI and Dye tanks). The ASA will work, but it canít be turned off and doesnít have a purge, so for convenience Iíd recommend replacing it.

Q: Does it come with a clamping feedneck?Iram: Yes. The SR has an etek-style clamping feedneck that requires a screw to tighten or loosen. For convenience, you may want to look into an ASA that uses either a locking lever or a thumb screw for tool-free setup when you get to the field.

Q: Can it keep up with other high end guns like DMs and Egos?Iram: Yes, easily.

Q: Does it have a screen?Iram: Yes. The OLED screen displays the battery status, mode, and current rate of fire setting. There is also a red/blue LED in the back of the frame that displays the eye status. It does NOThave a game timer or ROF meeter though.

Q: How is the battery life?Iram: According to WGP, you can get 3-4 cases off a battery. According to Blueís Crew, 1-2 scenario games per battery. Iíll post my results once I finish draining a battery.

Q: Will it run off rechargeable batteries?Iram: Yes, it seems to work fine off 8.4v rechargeable NiMH batteries. Keep in mind the NiMH batteries have 1.2v cells where alkaline batteries have 1.5v cells. As a result, NiMH 9v Batteries are really either 8.4v (1.2v/cell * 7 cells) or 9.6v (1.2v/cell * 8 cells). I'd recommend against using 9.6v batteries to avoid any potential damage to the board. Also, the battery meter does not work reliably with 8.4v rechargeables. I'd recommend charging NiMH batteries the night before you play.

Start off by removing the tank, hopper, barrel, and any paintballs from the gun. Now start misting the gun with a 50/50 mix of isopropyl rubbing alcochol (the 99% stuff) and water. Dry off with clean rags/paper towels, q-tip the hard to reach areas. Try not to spray so much near the trigger and it's electronics. Be light there.

1. Take off the eye covers. Clean the eyes, detents, and spaces between these components with a dry q-tip. Do the eyes last, with a fresh q-tip. Also, the inner face of the eye covers will need a cleaning.

2. Remove the bolt and wipe it down. Take a clean barrel swab (key word = clean) and clean out the entire top tube where the bolt is found. Also, cleaning the feedneck with the swab is good if you chopped a ball and have any shell or paint there. A good thing to do after this is air up the gun, turn the eyes off, and dry fire a few shots (without the bolt so it stays clean, if this is possible to the SR's operation I've yet to find out) to get any broken shell, dirt, or fuzzy-wuzzy from the swab out of the gun. There are channels in the breech, like the for the valve's air travel, that provide a good cave for crap to hide in. BLAST IT OUT!

**To be considered: If the SR's operation needs the bolt to be in place to cycle the hammer with it's pull pin (half-block cocker design) blast out the dirt and stuff with the bolt in place, then re-clean.

After doing all that, now would be a great time to take your barrel to the sink and wash it with hot water. Let air-dry for a day or so.

The entire breech should be empty of anything at this point. Before re-installation, ensure that everything is TOTALLY CLEAN!**

3. Now that everything is clean, re-insert the eyes to their harness, detents, covers. Take the bolt, lubricate if you wish (either Tri-Flow or Eclipse oil, just on the o-rings works best) and re-install.

In addition: I like to clean both my grip frame ASA and vert ASA threads, then remove the reg (still hooked up to macroline), air up and shoot out the air, making sure it is clean and has no particles/moistures. Now you have ensured your air line is clean!!! (I am truly a perfectionist, not necessary this part)

Unless Iram wants to add anything, that's all I can see to do for cleaning the SR after a day's play. If you didn't chop a ball, then the eye+detent removal probably isn't a must, for you slackers out there.

For lubrication: I'm sure they've changed a few things as for parts and design on the SR, so I'll leave out any thing major. Holding the gun upside down, remove the reg, put 3-4 drops of Planet Eclipse oil in the vertical asa (the one the reg screws into), re-attach reg, air up the gun (at this point, you can hold the gun normally), turn it on and deactivate the eys. Dry-fire about 50 shots (no barrel), and you're golden. The lube shouldn't get stuck in the breech as to hinder accuracy, but usually I will re-clean my bolt after I do this anyway.

If this was a normal E-Blade cocker, I'd say remove the hammer every 4-5 cases and Dow 33 it until slick. Every few cases lubing the ram is also good. With the SR's crazy pneumatics and stuff, this might be different. Take this with a grain of salt!

Edited by VICE_ROY, 03 January 2009 - 03:18 PM.

"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

be honest, do you like the grip-frame?
just from looking at it, it isnt very appealing to the eye, and it kinda looks uncomfortable to hold and shoot...
looks are an opinon thing, but is it comfortable?

be honest, do you like the grip-frame?just from looking at it, it isnt very appealing to the eye, and it kinda looks uncomfortable to hold and shoot...looks are an opinon thing, but is it comfortable?

It's actually VERY comfortable. I'd say it's right up there with the Dye UL frames. One thing I have found is you want to get your hand right up at the top of the frame. If you try to grab it lower down, it feels really strange.

A DP Fusion isn't an autococker, it's a FASOR. I've never shot one before, so I can't make a comparison. I can tell you how an SR compares to a PMR, Timmy, or a number of other cocker designs.

Yes, autocockers use a poppet valve.

Here's a basic animation of an autococker. It works on the same principle as a spyder or ego, except the bolt's forward movement is disconnected from the hammer's movement. The result is a 3-step firing process that's actually unique to autocockers and some of the Palmer semi's.

Two things to note: The connection between the hammer and the back bolt is simplified in the SR compared to the diagram. That diagram is of a ~1999 model autococker. Also, I'm not hosting that image. If gorrw.com decides to replace that with agg porn, don't blame me.

It seems about the same as my Black Magic, but I've yet to fully break the gun in or do formal testing. The fact that it doesn't have a game timer has me switching back to my timmy (several times), so I've yet to get through a full day of play with the SR. I'm just going to throw an older, broken in WGP reg on in, sweetspot it, and then do an efficiency test the next time I'm at the field. I've got a pile of like 4 cases of leftover field paint from various events that I could use to test, I just need to finally get out and do it.

To be honest, I think it's a combination of the springs and the ram/solenoid.

Due to a heavy valve spring, you need a heavy main (hammer) spring to get to velocity. Due to the heavy main spring, you need a high LPR pressure to cock consistantly.

Also, with the solenoid mounted straight to the ram, you greatly reduce the venting time for the ram. Think of it kind of like combining the 2009 Ego's solenoid with the pre-09 Ego QEVs. The result is a very fast ram. That fast ram of course smacks paintballs hard.

Last time I saw him in person, Schven79 suggested an MQ2 valve, which may be the way to go. Reduce the force needed to cock would allow the LPR to be reduced and may make the gun less of a blender.

I have tried the angled Alamo City bolt; it didn't help much. I also tried filing down that bolt to match the profile of the later cure bolts a bit more, but it still broke a lot of paint.

A MQ2 would completely remove the need for a higher LPR pressure, low pressure, slower cycle, less ball breakage. You could also put in a lighter valve and velocity spring. Then you could do the same with the pressure and less balls would be cracked by the super fast ram. I'll be doing some adjusting when I get my SR and I'll post the best spring setup and electronic settings and will probably end up putting in a MQ2.

Iram, I suggest you PM Mike or vice-versa. Hes having some trouble, haha. Also, PUT A MQ2 IN YOUR SR ALREADY! It will make life a bajillion times easier.

A MQ2 would completely remove the need for a higher LPR pressure, low pressure, slower cycle, less ball breakage. You could also put in a lighter valve and velocity spring. Then you could do the same with the pressure and less balls would be cracked by the super fast ram. I'll be doing some adjusting when I get my SR and I'll post the best spring setup and electronic settings and will probably end up putting in a MQ2.

Iram, I suggest you PM Mike or vice-versa. Hes having some trouble, haha. Also, PUT A MQ2 IN YOUR SR ALREADY! It will make life a bajillion times easier.

The last time I messed with valves, I ended up somehow fucking up the body on a black magic (and having to buy a new Black Magic just for the damn body...), so I'm not all that anxious to rip into my SR. Plus, I've got one of the first run of MQ2 valves (before MTX started polishing the valve bodies), so it has a lot of poppet stick. I'd probably need a yakuza board just to get an ABS to break the poppet loose at the beginning of the day.

I'm actually thinking of the SR as more of a "collector's" piece. It's probably the last autococker that will ever be produced. End of an era and all that...

Why don't you send in your old MQ2 for a new one. I bet if you explain your situation they'll hook you up. Also, the SR shouldn't sit on the shelf. No Autococker should, cause then it just further pushes the statement that WGP is dead an I think that, for the players, WGP is still alive and I intend to keep it that way.

Why don't you send in your old MQ2 for a new one. I bet if you explain your situation they'll hook you up. Also, the SR shouldn't sit on the shelf. No Autococker should, cause then it just further pushes the statement that WGP is dead an I think that, for the players, WGP is still alive and I intend to keep it that way.

I have no idea how I screwed it up, but that was a couple years ago. Got a replacement BM for $75.

Why don't you send in your old MQ2 for a new one. I bet if you explain your situation they'll hook you up. Also, the SR shouldn't sit on the shelf. No Autococker should, cause then it just further pushes the statement that WGP is dead an I think that, for the players, WGP is still alive and I intend to keep it that way.

I have no idea how I screwed it up, but that was a couple years ago. Got a replacement BM for $75.

Oh... Well heres another BM if you want it.

So I suggest you call MTX and work it out with them and then PM me. Let me know when your playing next. Thanks Iram.

Why don't you send in your old MQ2 for a new one. I bet if you explain your situation they'll hook you up. Also, the SR shouldn't sit on the shelf. No Autococker should, cause then it just further pushes the statement that WGP is dead an I think that, for the players, WGP is still alive and I intend to keep it that way.

I have no idea how I screwed it up, but that was a couple years ago. Got a replacement BM for $75.

Oh... Well heres another BM if you want it.

So I suggest you call MTX and work it out with them and then PM me. Let me know when your playing next. Thanks Iram.

I'm just too lazy to work on the MQ2.

Probably the next Fox4 scenario game or possibly the Spring Castle Conquest will be the next time I'll play.

This gun seems like too much trouble, i would rather get a Karni...is that too far from the truth?

Karnivors are more expensive stock and they aren't even comparable to the SR. For 250 the SR is great but you need to know how to work on cockers. I'm going to strip my SR to the valve when I get it and put in a spring kit while I wait for the money for a MQ2. I'm also going to time the lug on the hammer. Mines gunna run MINT!

Iram- Can I play with your SR the next scenario? I'll let you use my Karni.

Well, I just put paint through my SR for the first time. I had put a couple thousand reballs through it already. I chopped the hell out of everything. What ultimately fixed it was turning the force up a notch on the loader and increasing the ball in place delay to a crazy high value (20 ms). I've been shooting a cocker for 10+ years and am very comfortable with their operation and tuning. After finally getting it to shoot strings without chopping, it still wants to chop the last ball in the hopper periodically. Normal stuff like lpr pressure already checked and fine. Anyone else have a similar issue? It's not a huge deal, just have to be sure to keep paint in the hopper, but would be nice to remedy.

so has anybody found out what spring combination works the best in the SR

Every man dies, But not every man really lives

95% of teens would cry if they saw the whole twilight cast standing on top of a sky scraper about to jump. If your one of the 5% who would sit there eating popcorn saying "DO A FLIP!!" copy and paste this in your sig

Just got mine in the mail this past week. I'll be tuning it and playing with it this weekend. Anyone that has theirs working flawlessly want to share their board settings? Mine, of course, was a blender out of the box, even with a Magna turned up as fast as it will go. Increased BIP and that seemed to help.

Hello! I have a doubt, some online retail sites saw that in the description of the naming sr autocoker co2 operated using antisiphon or remote, it is true that I can use this marker with co2? or just use hpa? Thanks.

Hello! I have a doubt, some online retail sites saw that in the description of the naming sr autocoker co2 operated using antisiphon or remote, it is true that I can use this marker with co2? or just use hpa? Thanks.

you CAN but I don't think it's a great idea. If you do, I suggest limiting your ROF and avoiding long periods of continuous shooting.

finally got around to shooting my sr I picked up from ANS, after adjusting the settings and all the gun shot great not 1 chop. although a little loud, it all went great. question though what should the operating pressure be? I hooked my reg up to an asa with a gauge and it was sitting at 400psi, seems a little high to me but im not sure.

finally got around to shooting my sr I picked up from ANS, after adjusting the settings and all the gun shot great not 1 chop. although a little loud, it all went great. question though what should the operating pressure be? I hooked my reg up to an asa with a gauge and it was sitting at 400psi, seems a little high to me but im not sure.

^^^

Ive heard around 300 psi. Might want to back that down and crank up your ivg

I have mine sweetspotted with the ivg about 6.5 turns in from where it first threads in, so just screw in your ivg to that, and crono with the reg. It tops out at about 315-320 for me, so you have plenty of room to work with.Its easier just to start with ivg tension and crono with the reg than the other way around. have fun with the most underrated gun on the field! well, at least at my field it is.

High School Ballers Club
New England Ballers Club
Guns:SR-SLG-Sp8
Hopper:Camo Rotor Tank:68 4500 crossfire
pro axis

hEY EVERYONE JUST GOT MY SR 2 DAYS AND SHOT ABOUT 2 TANKS OF AIR THREW IT.
I have it set to semi auto 14bps. and when i get on it i feel like its bouncing like crazy. havn't had a chance to get it to chrono yet.

hi, i had my autococker sr in march and this is my first electro marker. first shooting was with gravy and semi-auto, it worked fine but timing showed 230 fps. After that i sent it to a technician and he set every thing in proper way i also bought egg 3 loader and everything was great! on the last game i had a break ball in my barrel and paint covered eyes. i didn't notice that and i had a blender in a few seconds!
autococker is really great and i love it!

Does the asa need to be replaced right away? Or is the stock one fine until I get enough money??

my worked 2 times after i got it from box ((( even when the pin is unscrewed i can still screw in tank and everything works, the air goes! also i can't disassemble it - it is stucked!!! ((( but if it worked i wouldn't replace it.

Anyone using a SR now as a main gun or occasional use. Did anyone ever cure the last ball in the hopper chop without a MQ2 valve. That is a awfully expensive fix even if you can find one. Most are used and might have some issues from use and handling.

i havent played with the sr in a while, but i do remember the same issue with the last few in the stack. you can try some of the settings on the guides and concentrate on the open delay. maybe, if you slow it down enough, it will give the ball time to settle down before the bolt opens the breach.

i havent played with the sr in a while, but i do remember the same issue with the last few in the stack. you can try some of the settings on the guides and concentrate on the open delay. maybe, if you slow it down enough, it will give the ball time to settle down before the bolt opens the breach.

good luck!

Thanks for the links. I have another problem. The oled display is burned out. It appears it can't be fixed or replaced. Has anyone used a UTB board or changed the frame to put in a different brd?

i just started to play around with the parallax bs2p micro-controller again, and maybe this time around i can try to make this work for the sr. but the utb seems like it will be a lot easier.

if you have your gun setup and working, you can try and leave it as is and just play with the current mode. or if you need to try and change things, you can try to follow the manual and do a mental visual of the display as you try and make the selections on the board. it will be a pain, but i think its very possible.

when ever i start to get some funds again, i always wanted some e-grips for some of my other ac. and maybe for the sr as well.