Hey guys. The knowledge and expertise I’ve gone through this site is been incredibly helpful to me and I want to say thank you.

I have about $1000ish to spend on upgrading my suspension on my SBC 64. Currently I already have the B body tall spindle swap. UMI 2” drop springs in the front (higher spring rate), stock springs in the back. KYB shocks in the front and Gabriel HiJacker air shocks in the rear. My next upgrade will be a 12:7:1 steering box in. My turning radius isn’t great because of the spindle swap and I do have some minor rubbing issues. I think I’m going to live with those issues for now, unless someone has a solution for the rubbing other than “buy different wheels.” I will eventually when there’s a deal. My driving is mild. I’m not looking to auto cross or anything too crazy.

Some things I could really use some help with:

1. Would Bilsteins be fine with higher rated 2” drop springs in front and back or do I need to go with something else? There’s not a lot of travel in the front, should I skip new shocks there to save money for something else?

2. What size sway bars should I go with? The front is low, Will I get much benefit with a front bar?

3. If seems like shocks rear springs and sway bars will eat my budget. Is there anything more important than those three for my application?

4. Coil overs would have the benefit of adjustability, but would they be better than higher rated lowering springs and bilsteins/umi shocks? I could pick up Viking double adjustables for about $1000, but wouldn’t have anything left for sway bars.

Lowering springs out back to match the front, Biltsein shocks all around, front 1.25" and rear 1" sway bars. That's about 2/3 of your budget if you shop around. You can box your rear control arms for almost nothing if you can weld. Beyond the basics of good bushings and tie rod ends, etc. you start to get into more money with stuff like front and rear control arms, roto-joints, and coil-overs, and with less noticeable gains per dollar. Springs, shocks, and sway bars made the biggest improvement per dollar on every car I've done suspension work on, and still kept the ride comfortable.

Hey guys. The knowledge and expertise I’ve gone through this site is been incredibly helpful to me and I want to say thank you.

I have about $1000ish to spend on upgrading my suspension on my SBC 64. Currently I already have the B body tall spindle swap. UMI 2” drop springs in the front (higher spring rate), stock springs in the back. KYB shocks in the front and Gabriel HiJacker air shocks in the rear. My next upgrade will be a 12:7:1 steering box in. My turning radius isn’t great because of the spindle swap and I do have some minor rubbing issues. I think I’m going to live with those issues for now, unless someone has a solution for the rubbing other than “buy different wheels.” I will eventually when there’s a deal. My driving is mild. I’m not looking to auto cross or anything too crazy.

Some things I could really use some help with:

1. Would Bilsteins be fine with higher rated 2” drop springs in front and back or do I need to go with something else? There’s not a lot of travel in the front, should I skip new shocks there to save money for something else?

2. What size sway bars should I go with? The front is low, Will I get much benefit with a front bar?

3. If seems like shocks rear springs and sway bars will eat my budget. Is there anything more important than those three for my application?

Thanks so much guys.

IMO, I'd go with the front swaybar (1.25"), along with rear springs/shocks/and maybe a rear swaybar… I'd just use KYB shocks in the rear for now. IMO, the Bilstein's or Viking's won't do YOU much good if you are just driving mildly, the KYB's will be fine for that, but I would get rid of the high-jackers... I'd save shocks for when you are getting new wheels, etc...

I'd also step up and replace any bushings, ball-joints and steering linkage as needed. Keep the front shocks if they are in good shape. Why not do that steering box now too...

For the rear upper arms, I'd go either replacement rubber bushings in the stock upper arms, or step up to Johnny-joints/Roto-joints in all four upper rear positions. Stiff upper rear arms and stiff upper bushings will bind (giving the illusion of "handling" because the car will be so stiff).

Once you go RAT, you never go back...
TC #1366

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Not sure how tall b-body spindles are so you may need to add $ for the Howe tall ball joints. But I’d go for adjustable SPC Upper Control arms(increase castor) Hellwig pro touring rear sway bar(mainly to get the mounts off the rear lower control arms.) Hellwig front sway bar. This would all be under $1000.
Also your body bushings wouldn’t be a bad idea if they are worn.
New control arm bushings all around. Unless you plan on buying new front lowers(least needed)and rear upper and lowers.(highly recommend UMI with roto joints at all 8 mounting points) and a spherical rear end bearing.