You don’t need to visit Russia to recognize a classic matryoshka doll.

The wooden figurines, which open to reveal another, smaller version inside, typically feature pristine skin, big eyes, and rosy cheeks.

Yet the only dolls that have gotten the beauty world’s attention are of the perky, plastic variety. Which might be why Guerlain’s fall collection is so distinct.

Like matryoshkas, the series features smoky but soft eyes, petal pink lips, flawless complexion, and glowing cheeks. In addition to new shades, like a deep eggplant mascara and nude-tinged balms, there’s the “Russian Beauty" palette, named not only for its honey-inflected “Tsarina” range, but the folkloric pattern embossed on the shadows as well.

The detailing isn’t new – Chanel’s Metiers D’Art pre-fall collection was a direct nod to Moscow – but the face of it is. Or, you could say, the face within a face within a face…