Big Dog is right as usual! I test rode a new 690R Saturday and although the powertrain is awesome, the turning radius is horrendous even with the stops fully adjusted and I felt like I was fighting the front end the entire time, it was very stiff maybe it gets better over time but I wasn't comfortable on it as it was. Could be an even more awesome bike if it could make a decent U-turn.

HF, you should stop drill that crack to stop it from spreading (self induced crack). Gives you a hole, but at least you can seal it!

Quote:

Originally Posted by HighFive

Negative....haven't tackled that task yet.

Rather, I began inspecting my airbox collector with a fine tooth comb. Discovered three of the clam-shell mounts cracked like this:

Easy to miss if I hadn't been so methodical. These are well lit Macro shots, so they look bigger than life. In reality, the cracks almost blend into the box.

Its enough to make a guy go buy one of them new fangled 2014 KTM 690's. I'm telling you!

BUT I fixed her up good nuff:

Broke out my super duper 100 ton tensile strength, 15 minute epoxy!

Fixed my self-induced crack, while I was at it:

Yeah....I know....it'll probably melt and get sucked into my engine.....killing the motor for good. Then, I'll be stranded somewhere by myself, no doubt. While starving in the wilderness, I'll eat some wild berries and become delusional. Get rescued, then head (still delusional) to the nearest KTM dealer to by one of a 690R.

HF, you should stop drill that crack to stop it from spreading (self induced crack). Gives you a hole, but at least you can seal it!

Great Idea!

The hole don't matter much with the uni pod on it. I actually drilled a drain hole behind the AIT, in the airbox, just in case some water got in from the top. Don't need mosquitoes taking up homestead ya know eh?

Not the way you guys went.....no. I'm going to figure out a fix on the other end, at the original opening. I want it serviceable from the outside in a normal fashion. Don't want to be re-opening the Collector box multiple times....especially after seeing the cracks in those mount posts.

Not the way you guys went.....no. I'm going to figure out a fix on the other end, at the original opening. I want it serviceable from the outside in a normal fashion. Don't want to be re-opening the Collector box multiple times....especially after seeing the cracks in those mount posts.

HF

That's how I started, but once looking at the problem and future problems, the fix was more obvious to use Njoys method.

Here is what I had planned.

I was just going to get a plastic welder and put a flange on the inside of the box so the filter would seal proper. Do you see the channel right above the filter? That would need a seal, that is a big design flaw. The rubber seal that runs the perimeter is fairly dense, so any warpage over time will net a good leak, and plastic warps in the AZ sunshine.

But once I got the box apart, this would have been an exercise in futility as the airbox has too many other issues, short and long term concerns. Pulling the panels is easier than removing the stock door as it is.

The design, if you could do something similar to pictured, would be easy access, part of the idea. Then you could get some sort of gasket for the internal damn and run sealant around the perimeter seam of the airbox, and you could be good to go.

If you want this brand new DNA filter, let me know. Cut ya a good deal on it, with the oil and cleaner.

I keep thinking back to the Honda CB750's. Folks would put 4 small filters on them, and get rid of the airbox. Well, the airbox had a function of more than holding the filter, it also distributed fresh, cool air equally to each carb. With the four little air filters, in many cases the center two cylinders ran hotter. That is not an issue with the Terra or Strada.

Putting the pod filter within the airbox vs removing the airbox and building a subframe for the plastic, is not functional, as the heat from the engine will recirculate back into the intake. Keeping the box, is pretty much a must do thing.

I didn't have any of those studs cracked like that on my bike RE. I did break one that I had to epoxy back on but that was my fault. Odd, almost looks like a compression break from weight above. Maybe his bike was built the day the Italians found out their factory was closing?

High Five, any ideas on how those cracks formed? Could it have been from you trying to remove the airbox?

Negative. There was no stress induced to the box whatsoever during lid removal. Everything was removed from bike, as seen, before I removed the top half of the clam shell. All I did was unscrew the bolts around the perimeter, then lift it off. The halves separated very easily......unobstructed as it was.

The cracks appear caused by the initial installation of the anchor screws.....as if the hole ID was drilled too small. The cracks on two of the posts started down the mold seam then veered off in the direction of tightening torque. The third post is spilt in the material away from a seam. All other mounting posts appear to be in proper working order.

I imagine my 1,000 ton epoxy will hold it together well enough.....until the vibration starts.

Sucks, don't it? I bet a whole bunch of air boxes have some cracked posts in them. Just a hunch.

I've been incubating ideas a long time. Got some new ideas for making a fix. Could have done without the 3P problem (Piss Poor Posts). But onward.....always onward!

DeDave is right about the need for the box remaining as a heat shield, primarily. Though to what affect it has, I'm not certain. The AIT is sitting inside the box directly above the engine heat. No or slow movement will heat up the air inside the box quickly.....causing the ECU to lean the mixture when you're sitting at a stop light, for example. Thus, the dreaded engine stumble on take-off. As the air inlet temp reading begins climbing, the fuel mixture is leaned at the injector.

That's why we are using the temperature spoofers to fix the problem. Everyone typically thinks in terms of ambient conditions. But what's really going on, for the engine's sake, is happening inside the airbox at the AIT sensor. I've thought of relocating the sensor, but it would still need fresh air....protected from the elements. Just rambling, for those that might not have fully understood what all the hub-bub is about.

I'd have to look back at the photos again, but you guys with the NJoy mod, might want to make sure "fresh air" is able to reach the AIT very easily. You don't want the foam filter sock blocking the air flow to the sensor after the clamshell is re-fastened. It would be better to place the AIT in front of the filter sock, in that case; rather than behind it.....trapped in the back-end where the temps might rise. Arizona is a good field test, as it would simulate summer conditions more easily.....sooner. Comes down to whether or not the "Spoofer" has enough "delta" built into it for the heat range that might be encountered inside the modified box condition.

More brainstorming......if your AIT is trapped behind the filter sock, you could punch a drain hole in the back corner (like some have done) and install a small elbow fitting thru the hole....pointing forward to drive some fresh air into that area as you ride along. Might help, if you begin having some hot-air induced stumbling again. Something to think about and monitor as time goes by.

The AIT is sitting inside the box directly above the engine heat. No or slow movement will heat up the air inside the box quickly.....causing the ECU to lean the mixture when you're sitting at a stop light, for example. Thus, the dreaded engine stumble on take-off. As the air inlet temp reading begins climbing, the fuel mixture is leaned at the injector.

But what's really going on, for the engine's sake, is happening inside the airbox at the AIT sensor. I've thought of relocating the sensor, but it would still need fresh air....protected from the elements. Just rambling, for those that might not have fully understood what all the hub-bub is about.

It would be better to place the AIT in front of the filter sock, in that case; rather than behind it.....trapped in the back-end where the temps might rise.

If your AIT is trapped behind the filter sock, you could punch a drain hole in the back corner (like some have done) and install a small elbow fitting thru the hole....pointing forward to drive some fresh air into that area as you ride along. Might help, if you begin having some hot-air induced stumbling again. Something to think about and monitor as time goes by.

HF

Great thoughts H5, I kinda had that epiphany when I did my mod but the "screw it factor" kicked in and I put the AIT back where it was easier.

These are the only two places I can think of that the AIT would fit (inside the air box). Both would require lengthening the harness wires.

This location would require hanging it upside down but that might aid in water not corroding things but the plug modules won't fit under the faux tank cover.

Great thoughts H5, I kinda had that epiphany when I did my mod but the "screw it factor" kicked in and I put the AIT back where it was easier.

These are the only two places I can think of that the AIT would fit (inside the air box). Both would require lengthening the harness wires.

This location would require hanging it upside down but that might aid in water not corroding things but the plug modules won't fit under the faux tank cover.

I'd imagine with the bike moving there will be some pressure & turbulence inside the box to mix up the air. But you can test to verify by using a two probe digital thermometer, put one sensor/thermocouple at your AIT & one at a location you think you might relocate the AIT to so you can compare before doing any cutting. The Dirty River store has a Chicom unit for $21.

I'd imagine with the bike moving there will be some pressure & turbulence inside the box to mix up the air. But you can test to verify by using a two probe digital thermometer, put one sensor/thermocouple at your AIT & one at a location you think you might relocate the AIT to so you can compare before doing any cutting. The Dirty River store has a Chicom unit for $21.