1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat and add the onion, celery, chopped fennel and a generous pinch of salt. Cook gently forabout 5 to 8 minutes, until the vegetables have softened and lost some of their volume. Add the potatoes, garlic, bouquet garni and the water or stock and bringto a boil. Reduce the heat, add salt to taste, cover and simmer 45 minutes.

2. Remove the bouquet garni. Blend the soup until smooth with an immersion blender, or ladle into a blender, working in 1 1/2-cup batches. Remove the center from theblender cover, place a towel over the cover and pull it down tightly to prevent splashing. Blend and return to the pot. Heat through, add salt and pepper totaste and serve, or chill and serve cold, with your choice of garnishes.

Yield: 6 servings.

Advance preparation: This will be good for 2 to 3 days. Whisk the soup before reheating or serving cold.