Piora

Ozersky’s pick: I was absolutely knocked out by Piora. It’s hard for me to think of a restaurant anywhere in the U.S. that does modern tweezer food so ably and is also able to serve the kind of massive, primitive double-rib steak (below) I had for my main course. Piora can beat you high, and it can beat you low. It was only the steak that put it ahead of Aska, whose modernist comfort food impressed the shit out of me; Maysville, on the cutting edge of lardcore; and Costata, Michael White’s smartest and most manageable restaurant.