Monday, January 31, 2011

Fugetsu is off of the main drag of Hanamikoji Dori, so is a bit quieter and less thronged with tourists.

Once inside, though, and you are entering a different world.

It specializes in green tea and tofu cafes and beverages.

Access

From Minami-za Theater, walk towards Yasaka Shrine on Shijo Dori. At Hanamikoji, turn right and head into the main area of Gion. At the fourth corner on the left, turn left (east). Cafe Fugetsu is on the right side of the street.

Friday, January 28, 2011

The park is a climb up Mt Arashiyama, which overlooks the river that flows through the a heavily wooded and touristed area in western Kyoto City. There are about 170 Japanese macaque monkeys that live there. The monkeys are indeed wild - and caution should be exercised - but can be fed food purchased at the site.

To get there, cross the Togetsudo Bridge from the main area of Arashiyama. Once across the Katsura/Oi River, you turn right and walk with the forest on your left and a canal on your right.

The entrance is up a few steps heading to a shrine and to the left.

Once you pay for your ticket, you will need to hike up for about 15 minutes. Signs will guide you.

Small children should be held or watched closely on the walk up lest they fall over the edge.

When you enter the area in which the monkeys live, a few basic safety precautions are necessary:

1) Don't stare the monkeys in the eye (this is an act of aggression)
2) Don't touch the monkeys
3) Don't feed them outside the area noted on the signs

Rangers are there to guide and help you. Bags of feed can be purchased inside the main building.

Information
Open 9 am - 5 pm every day
Tel: 872-0950
Adults: 550 yen; High School and older 250 yen

Thursday, January 27, 2011

The English factory operated by the East India Company in Hirado, an island off the west coast of Kyushu, was short-lived, lasting only for ten years from 1613-1623.

Competition and eventual conflict with the Dutch, who had also set up a rival trading station on Hirado, lead to the English giving up on Japan and concentrating on their colonies in India and Ceylon (present-day Sri Lanka).

Established in 1613 with the help of William Adams (1564-1620), Richard Cocks was appointed as the factory's first chief merchant what would now be the CEO.

The idea behind the venture was to sell woolen cloth from England in Japan and to trade Japanese products with Siam (present-day Thailand).

The first English ship to arrive in Japan was The Clove in 1613 and English merchants visited Nagasaki, Edo, Osaka, and Tsushima in an effort to promote their East Asian trade.

Adams and Cocks failed to get on, as Cocks criticized Adams for his adoption of a Japanese lifestyle, including wearing Japanese clothes and taking a Japanese wife.

The English Factory, Hirado

The factory was eventually closed in 1623. The English made further attempts to resurrect their position after the Dutch had successfully established themselves on Dejima in Nagasaki.

One account tells of an English ship arriving from Ceylon with an elephant as a present for the shogun. The request was rejected by the Tokugawa regime and one wonders what became of the poor elephant. Was it thrown overboard, killed and eaten by the crew or taken on the long journey back to Colombo?

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

The Buke-yashiki district of lower and middle samurai houses in the Teppo-cho area of Shimabara in Nagasaki Prefecture is a short walk north west of Shimabara Castle.

A small spring water canal, that served for the daily water needs of the houses, runs down the center of the street. A number of the wooden samurai residences and gardens have been preserved here including the Torita, Shinozuka and Yamamoto homes.

The homes are unoccupied and are free to enter. Some of the tatami-floored rooms have mannequins in period dress recreating scenes from samurai life.

The properties measure about 300 square meters and were occupied by mid-ranking samurai who served as clerks and administrators to the feudal lord (Matsudaira) and received a stipend of between 7 and 17 koku of rice a year, depending on their rank. Each property was planted with loquat, persimmon and orange trees to provide the family with fresh fruit.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

The vast majority of rivers and streams in Japan have had their banks concreted as a flood control measure, rendering many of them little more than glorified drains in large urban areas.

The beautiful Kamo River, which flows through Kyoto and inspired Japanese haiku poets and painters in times gone past, still has an illegal yakuza-run incinerator in its upper reaches despite a decades-long citizens' protest to shut it down.

Despite this, and the amount of household garbage that is routinely thrown into them, Japanese rivers and streams provide viable eco-systems for a remarkable number of fish, birds, frogs, turtles and insects to survive and indeed thrive in adversity in some areas.

The Shinano River in Nagano and Niigata Prefectures is Japan's longest river at 367km. The Go River in Shimane is one of the few that has not been overly-concreted along its banks.

Monday, January 24, 2011

Sokenji Temple, in Shiga Prefecture, was incorporated into Oda Nobunaga's grandiose Azuchi Castle, and actually pre-dated the castle, which was completed in 1579.

Located near the shores of Lake Biwa, the original three-storey pagoda was built in 1554 and is believed to have been moved from Chojuji Temple in Koga (甲賀, Koka) to its present location.

Sokenji Temple escaped the fires that ravaged and destroyed Azuchi Castle in 1582. After Nobunaga's death at Honnoji Temple in Kyoto at the hands of the traitor Akechi Mitsuhide, his second son Nobukatsu clashed with Akechi's retainers and during the subsequent skirmish between the two sides the great seven-storey tenshu (keep) of Azuchi Castle was burnt to the ground.

The temple belongs to the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism and is a 30-minute walk from Azuchi Station on the JR Biwako Line.

Sunday, January 23, 2011

The following video from the BBC comedy quiz show QI, hosted by Stephen Fry, drew an official complaint from the Japanese Embassy in London and an equally quick apology from the BBC.

Fry portrayed Tsutomu Yamaguchi, a survivor of both nuclear bombs dropped on Japan during WWII, as the "unluckiest man in the world."

Yamaguchi, who died aged 93 last year of stomach cancer, was badly burned by the atomic bombing of Hiroshima while on business in the port city, but managed to take a train to his hometown of Nagasaki, where he experienced the second bomb to be dropped on Japan by American forces.

It is supposed that around 100 people were subject to the same "double bombing" experience at the time.

More than half of Japanese are somewhat optimistic about the future of the country. According to a survey released by the Japanese Trade Union Confederation, 51.6% said Japan would be "much better" or "somewhat better" in 30 years.

Source: Daily Yomiuri

There were 5,616 more test takers for the annual college examination known as the "Center Shiken." That is in spite of a decline in the overall population of young people.

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Niijima, 160km south of Tokyo, is part of the Izu Islands (Izu-shoto) which also include Oshima, Toshima, Kozushima and Shikine-jima. The outer group of islands includes Hachijojima, Mikurajima and Mitakejima. The islands are actually part of Tokyo!

Niijima was a place of exile in the Edo Period (1603-1868) but is now a popular surfer's paradise in summer, though largely deserted of visitors at other times.

Habushi-ura is the best surfing, windsurfing and swimming beach on the island - over 6km of fine white sand and good waves. Maehama is a smaller beach on the other side of the island.

If you come outside the surfing season, hire a bicycle and enjoy the peace and tranquility the island offers after Tokyo. Things worth seeing include the hot-springs at Yunohama Onsen and Mamashita Onsen and the the Niijima Modern Glass Art Center (Tel: 04992 55140), where you can see glass-blowers at work.

Moyai Hill, which overlooks the two main beaches contains Niijima Stone Zoo, with over 100 stone sculptures. The Moyai statue, a popular meeting place near Shibuya Station in Tokyo, is a gift from Niijima.

The Niijima Museum, which tells the history of the island, also has an interesting display of surfboards on show. Choeiji Temple dates from the 13th century and includes the graves of political prisoners sent to the island in past times.

Basho, the famous haiku master visited Niijima in 1698 by wooden boat, while modern visitors can now fly to the tiny airport on Niijima from Chofu Airport or to Oshima from Haneda Airport.

Most people arrive, however, on the overnight ferry from Takeshiba Sanbashi Pier near the north exit of Hamamatsucho Station (8 hours, 45 minutes) or on high-speed hydrofoils from the same port.

The overnight ferry visits the other islands in the inner group of the Izu Islands in a loop before returning to Tokyo: travel times are Oshima (6 hours, 15 mins), Toshima (7 hours), Shikine-jima (9 hours, 15 mins) and Kozushima (10 hours, 15 mins).

Shinshin Kisen (a subsidiary owned by Tokai Kisen) runs ferries from Shimoda on the Izu Peninsula to Niijima (4 hours) and other Izu islands. There is also a local boat connecting Niijima with Shikine-jima.

Friday, January 21, 2011

Japan has a strong macho tradition that involves lots of shouting, back slapping, and posturing. It was on unique display the other morning at my local railway station, Asakusabashi, in Tokyo, on the JR Sobu line. At the bottom of the stairs onto the street, a middle aged employee (perhaps the owner) of a local sushi shop was accosting commuters with guttural ecries of encouragement, clenched "go-for-it" fists, and the occasional back slap. Check out the YouTube video, taken on my iPhone.

Thursday, January 20, 2011

The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaenkoen in Nagano Prefecture have now achieved world fame as the monkeys who love to take a hot bath in winter. Featured in documentaries by David Attenborough and on the cover of Life Magazine, these bathing apes must be the most photographed monkeys on the planet.

The troupe of Japanese Macaques, who frequent the hot spring (onsen) in Jigokudani Yaenkoen, in Nagano Prefecture in central Japan, began visiting the pools sometime in the 1960s, possibly after observing humans doing the same thing...and liking it.

Such is the fame and expectation of these daily simian ablutions, food is now placed around and in the pools to satisfy the hundreds of camera and video-toting visitors who come to see the macaques bathe and play.

Winter is best time to see the macaques when their enjoyment and sense of fun in the hot water is tangible. Then their coats, where they are exposed, are frosted, even coated with snow, yet they look so warm and content (until that is they walk off to the forest again).

Despite the pampered treatment of the Japanese Macaques at Jigokudani Yaenkoen for the 1000s of snap-happy tourists who visit each year, over a 100,000 of these monkeys are killed each year in Japan, classified as pests, for their pilfering of farmer's harvests.

From Tokyo Station, take the JR Shinkansen (bullet train) to Nagano Station. Change to the Nagano Dentetsu train to Yudanaka (40 minutes by express or 1 hour by local train). From Yudanaka, catch a local bus (15 minutes) or take a taxi to Kanbayashi Onsen. From here it's a 20-30 minute walk to Jigokudani Yaenkoen (Entrance 500 yen).

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Thomas Blake Glover (1838-1911) was one of the most influential of the western foreigners who settled in Japan during the Bakumatsu Period of Japanese history - the final years of the Tokugawa Shogunate from the arrival of Commodore Perry in Shimoda in the 1850s to the fall of the Tokugawa regime in 1868.

Like many young men of his era out East at the time, the young Scot arrived in Nagasaki from Shanghai in 1859 in the employ of Jardine Matheson, primarily as a trader in green tea.

Glover set up his own company two years later and sensing the way the political winds were blowing, Glover's first big trades were in modern Western rifles, ammunition and ships, sold to the rebellious domains of Choshu (Yamaguchi Prefecture), Satsuma (Kagoshima) and Tosu (Kochi).

With the proceeds from arms-trading Glover was able to build the first western-style house in Japan, the present-day Glover Garden overlooking Nagasaki Bay.

Glover played on a big stage and his achievements are legion. He was instrumental in helping the "Choshu Five" (future Prime Minister Ito Hirobumi, Inoue Kaoru, Endo Kinsuke, Yamao Yozo and Inoue Masaru) leave Japan on Jardine Matheson ships, first for Shanghai and then London, breaking the Tokugawa-erected "sakoku" barrier, which forbade Japanese people from leaving the country on pain of death.

After the Meiji Restoration of 1868, Glover was in the good books of the new government and even though his first investments in shipbuilding led to his bankruptcy in 1870, he stayed on in Japan to make his fortune in shipping, brewing (he played a part in what was to become Kirin Beer) and mining.

For his considerable part in the modernization and industrialization of Japan, Glover was awarded the Order of the Rising Sun (second class) from the Meiji government.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

The last decade in Japan has seen the country wholeheartedly embrace Christmas with all that entails: pizza delivery boys and massage parlor girls in Santa suits, Christmas cakes in bakeries and, of course, Christmas illuminations.

Most major railway stations now have elaborate illuminations as do many local parks, restaurants and bars. A growing number of private houses also sprout fairy lights as Yuletide in Japan approaches.

Monday, January 17, 2011

In the hot spring town of Kinosaki, not far from the coast of the Sea of Japan in Hyogo Prefecture, there is more to see and do than just bathe.

The main attraction of the town - 2 plus hours from Kyoto or Osaka by rail - is its "sotoyu" (literally "out baths"), the seven public baths that are all within walking distance of the main street, which parallels a quaint canal.

When you stay at inns in the town, you will be given an electronic tag that you can use to enter any of these baths for free.

The second attraction is crab. In winter, the town is thronged with visitors in search of Sea of Japan crab.

Last would be the overall retro vibe of the town. Many ordinary buildings have eluded the wrecking ball, and among them are many shops and arcades that feature retro goods.

One we visited had old-time pachinko (pinball) machines.

Access

From Kyoto Station, express trains take two and a half hours and cost 4,510 yen; from Osaka, trains take 2 hours and forty-five minutes.

Kobe is one of Japan's largest ports and has a decidedly "western" feel as it was a former treaty port opened to foreigners in the late 19th century. The city has completely recovered from a devastating earthquake in 1995.

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Many of the thousands of people flocking to the new Tokyo International Airport (more commonly known as Haneda Airport) terminal on the Tokyo monorail are not just travelers rushing to catch a flight to Asia or America but also shoppers and diners keen to visit the shops and restaurants which have opened in the new 5-storey building. In fact, sightseers and shoppers outnumber actual air passengers 2-1 at weekends and on public holidays causing severe congestion and long lines outside popular restaurants.

There are branches of Hello Kitty and the Ginza-based Hakuhinkan toy store, which has a huge toy car track, which really draws in the kids, as Haneda ups its competition with rival Narita Airport.

As at Chubu International Airport, some of the shops and restaurants are arranged in a faux Edo Period "market" (called Edo Koji) which is all the rage with Japanese airport terminal architects at the minute. So there is plenty of wood, slate tiles and traditional lanterns or chochin on display. Tokyo Pop Town is the name of the contemporary-designed shopping area.

Haneda's new terminal also has a large indoor Torii gate (see above).

The full list of stores and services includes such well-known outlets as Kaneko optics, Air Lawson convenience store, Character Shop Haikara, Edo Event-kan (souvenirs), Kaizosha book store, Rink (bags) and Itoya stationery.

There are ATMs, a branch of Mizuho bank, a clinic, numerous currency exchanges, a pharmacy, a police box (koban), nap and shower rooms, a PC station and wireless LAN.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

The Japanese archipelago consists of 1000s of islands many of which have been connected by boat since time immemorial.

Unfortunately, ferry services are in decline especially long-distance ferry services as increasingly busy people choose air travel or the shinkansen bullet train.

Short distance ferries cannot be replaced by air or train travel however and ferry services are indispensable for the inhabitants of the islands of the Inland Sea between Honshu and Shikoku and for the many small islands off the coast of Kyushu in southern Japan.

This ferry in the video makes the short crossing from Kumamoto to Shimabara and back in Kyushu. The crossing takes one hour on the cheaper, slower boat run by Kyusho Ferry (Tel: 096 329 6111) or 30 minutes on the more expensive quicker boat operated by Kumamoto Ferry (Tel: 0957 63 8008).

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Go out the east exit of Shinjuku Station and look across Shinjuku-dori Street for the big screen of the Alta Studio Building.

Cross over and go down the street just to the left of the Alta Studio. It will take you to Yasukuni-dori Street, the street running parallel with Shinjuku-dori Street. Keep going straight across Yasukuni-dori Street and you'll find yourself in Kabukicho.

Reservations: PrePaid spots are Guaranteed! Only 40 men and 40 women. Reserve and prepay to secure your spot.

Nagoya Speed Dating is a great way to meet new people in the Aichi, Gifu and Mie Areas! At Nagoya Speed Dating, you will receive a number, an assigned table, and a personalized Speeding Ticket form. When the host says to start you will have between 3 to 5 minutes to talk to the person at your table. When the time is up the host will give you a signal. At that time the men will change tables and the women will remain seated. All you have to do is mark your speeding ticket with a yes or a no for each person. At the end of the event, the tickets will be analyzed and Nagoya Speed Dating will notify you of your matches. After that you will also receive contact info for the people you have matched with. Nagoya Speed Dating is a safe, easy, and fun way to meet new people. Come check out Nagoya Speed Dating!

Map & Directions

Contact: 080-3648-1666(Japanese) 080-5469-6317(English)

Get off at Tsurumai Station(JR Chuo Line [South Exit] or Subway Tsurumai Line [Exit #4])

Nagoya Tsurumai City Public Hall, 1-1-3 Tsurumai

From Nagoya Station from Nagoya Station take the JR Chuo-Honsen Line and get off at the second station (Tsurumai). From Tsurumai Station, get off at south exit

From Sakae/Fushimi Area, catch the Tsurumai Subway Line at Fushimi Station(bound for Akaike) and get off at the third (3rd) stop - Tsurumai. From Tsurumai Station, get off at exit #4

Special 100th party in Nagoya. Lots of prizes to give away! Come celebrate the New Year and 100 events in Nagoya!!!

Dress code: Anything (Casual, etc)

Reservations: Not necessary but recommended and appreciated. Just show up to the party!

Over 25,000 Yen worth of exciting prize giveaways each month!

There will be free food along with free drinks (beers, wine, cocktail drinks and juices).Our party is not a dinner party, but we will have light food & snacks.Quantities are limited, so please come early! Please free to come alone or bring your friends.EVERYBODY is welcome to join regardless of nationality/gender. Reservation is greatly appreciated.About 125-150+ people are expected to attend. Approximately 55% female and 45% male, 70% Japanese and 30% non-Japanese.Pictures from previous Nagoya Friends Parties.

The Red Rock is located behind the Chunichi Building in the Sakae business/shopping district.

Subway access from Sakae Station (serving the yellow and purple lines) Exit 13. It's a big station connected to a huge underground shopping mall so you'll need to do a little underground walking.

We're also just a couple of minutes' walk from the Tokyu and Precede hotels, and a 10 minute walk up Hirokoji Street from the Hilton Hotel in Fushimi

From Nagoya Stn. take the Higashiyama Subway line to Sakae Station (GET OFF at Sakae Station!!) Take exit #13 and then walk straight AWAY from Hirokoji-Dori for about 3/4 of a block. TURN LEFT Red Rock is on the right side of the street in the middle of the block. Look for the sign on the sidewalk.

Coming of Age ceremonies are held in public halls all over the country for young 20-year-olds reaching adulthood, legally enabling them to marry without their parents' consent, drive, gamble, smoke, drink and other freedoms.

Young Japanese women parade in their finest hired kimono, sporting elaborate nail art manicures and feather boas to ward off the season's chill.

Men don western suits or occasionally traditional Japanese hakama and haori.

Izakaya pubs, clubs, Love Hotels and restaurants are fully-booked as a new mass of neoteric adults celebrate their new-found freedom to party....legally.