finaly gonna start my new tank

This is a discussion on finaly gonna start my new tank within the Beginner Saltwater Aquariums forums, part of the Saltwater Fish and Coral Reef Tanks category; -->
ok, that is fine, but could you supply a list of things i COULD get.
also, the fish store has some LR from a ...

so i think i need new stuff for the inside but my dad can help me with that since he has used it many times. so unless i shouldnt bother setting it up, ill go do that when he gets back from china (buisness trip). he gets back tommorow so ill prob have it up and running on sunday (going skiing saturday!). what do you guys think? is there something im forgeting? also how much would a CUC for this size tank cost in general?
thanks guys so much for all this help, i probably wouldnt even attempt anything like this if it wasnt for this site!

oh and also, could you please list all the test kits i will need forever? like everything ill need when its setting up and when its set up. is there a packet that offers all of those, if so could you please provide a link or name?

also, the fish store has some LR from a takedown tank and its for $2 per lb. he says it has no coraline algea. Jakarta rock that has no coralline algae on it for $2/lb.

Try not to get to hung up on what you can or can't have. These things tend to come together. A lot of this is more situational. For example, can you keep a Royal Gramma in this tank? Sure you can, based on the space you have. I would, however, want to know all the other details of the system and actually observe here as we go along, before I was comfortable telling you that this fish will do well. In other words, lets see the system in action, see how everything progresses.

Yes, purchase the Jakarta rock. This is an amazing price. However, keep in mind, pounds is not an indicator of size. Weight is determined by mass, not size. A small rock can be very heavy, and Jakarta rock is not very porous. I would compare size for size the rock you are about to purchase with other rocks of similar size. You may find that you need 20 pounds of Jakarta rock to give you the same reef build as 12 pounds of Fiji rock, for example. Simply purchasing 10 pounds is not the key. The key is to purchase enough rock to create a nice reef structure for maximum benefits.

Quote:

Originally Posted by teddyzaper

oh and also, could you please list all the test kits i will need forever? like everything ill need when its setting up and when its set up. is there a packet that offers all of those, if so could you please provide a link or name?

ok so ive been doing some reaserch on fish, and here is my list of favorites, what can i have and i cant?
1. Wartskin Frogfish
2. Randall's Shrimp Goby
3. Possum Wrasse
4. Blackray Shrimp Goby
5. Wheeler's Shrimp Goby
6. Three Striped Goby
7. Tailspot Blenny
ok so what ones arent reef friendly and what ones wont work with the skimmer? oh and also if they are to big or i need more exp for them?

First, there is really no such thing as a fish that won't work with a skimmer. There are fish that are more sensitive that others, but again, lets hope that thing go great for you. Besides, on your first setup, we need to be looking at fish that are pretty easy to keep.

The only fish above that I have ever seen in an LFS is the Wheelers Shrimp Goby, which is a great little fish and fairly easy to keep. I have read articles on others, such as the Randall's, Possum, Three Striped, and Tailspot, but have no first hand experience and doubt that you will find them available. Where did this list come from? Perhaps someone else can help out on this.

A goby is your best bet. I would also add a neon goby to the list as well. Bright, active, and heavily aquacultured. More importantly, cheap heheh.Like Pasfur said do not do any of them without a skimmer. Also do not add until cycle is over.

To me the main test kit you will need is the basic ones which you can find in a pack. Get the liquid, not the strips, the paper ones arent very accurate. PH, Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I know Petco has a complete set.

To me the main test kit you will need is the basic ones which you can find in a pack. Get the liquid, not the strips, the paper ones arent very accurate. PH, Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I know Petco has a complete set.

I think this is another area where I often approach things a bit differently than the classic approach you read about and hear preached so often on the forums. I think Austin, Wake, OF2F, and I are all on the same page on this, which is partly what I contribute to the great success we have had on this forum in helping new hobbyists.

What I am talking about, of course, is the importance of testing for alkalinity and calcium on every marine aquarium. The reason I believe it is so important is that alkalinity is a leading indicator, so to speak, meaning that it tends to go out of sync before the other readings. Testing alkalinity allows you to see negative trends far in advance, and take action before problems arise. Interpreting alkalinity results correctly requires a calcium test result, which is why I always discuss both together.

There is certainly a huge portion of this hobby which ignores alkalinity and calcium on a fish only tank, and instead does frequent water changes and tests pH religiously. I prefer less water changes and more alkalinity and calcium testing and supplementation. Here is a thread I posted which goes into much greater detail, for anyone interested:http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/m...-marine-33079/

What I am talking about, of course, is the importance of testing for alkalinity and calcium on every marine aquarium. The reason I believe it is so important is that alkalinity is a leading indicator, so to speak, meaning that it tends to go out of sync before the other readings. Testing alkalinity allows you to see negative trends far in advance, and take action before problems arise. Interpreting alkalinity results correctly requires a calcium test result, which is why I always discuss both together.

I agree with this 100%. On any given week I test Calcium, Alkalinity and pH at least once. I test pH as a precaution only to help me interpret my Alk reading past its relationship with Calcium. And every time I am just wasting testing solution, because I have yet to see a reading that wasn't pH=8.3. The relationship between Alk and Calcium tells me when to dose (Alk and Calcium) and when to do a water change. I have a tendency to do a 10% WC every week (I stop my pump and change 15 gallons out of the sump so I don't disrupt the display), so my Alk and Calcium stay good relative to each other with dosing. I use a two part dosing system: BIonic, and need to dose usually once or twice a week.