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Push tube/ Swivel/ Blade Assembly Instructions 1. Install the blade swivel (15) onto the front of the push tube (14) using the 1/2″ shoulder bolt (4), two 1/2″ washers (5), and a 3/8″ Nylock nut (3) from the bolt bag per diagram #1. Make sure the flat washers seat properly on the bottom of the shoulder bolt while tightening the nut. Make sure the blade turns freely. 2. Remove the 2 bottom flanged nuts (I) from the u-bolt (D) and 2 from the 3/8″ bolts (H) on the blade position pin assembly (23). Run the 2 top flanged nuts up the threads of the u-bolt. Place the blade position pin assembly on the push tube as shown in the Diagram, sliding the blade position pin through one of the oval holes on the swivel and through the rear blade position pin support bracket on the push tube. 3. Re-install the u-bolt and 3/8″ bolts and flanged nuts per the Diagram. On the u-bolt, thread the bottom nuts up until they are flush with the bottom of the threads then run the top ones down, making sure the bottom nuts remain flush with the bottom of the u-bolt. Tighten all 4 bottom nuts. 4. Remove the two shoulder bolts (18) from the pivot point brackets on the back of the blade (1). Attach the blade to the swivel by sliding the ears on each side of the swivel into the pivot point brackets on the blade, reinstall the two shoulder bolts and Nylock nut (3) and tighten. 5. Hook the blade springs (6) to the two round holes on either side of the 5 oval holes on the swivel. Hook the eyebolts through the other end of the springs, push the eyebolts through the spring attaching points on the back of the blade and install 3/8″ Nylock nuts (3). Spring tension may be increased by tightening both Nylock nuts on the eyebolts evenly. 6. Install the blade stops (16) with the two 3/8″ x 1″ bolts (17) and 3/8″ nuts (3) per the Diagram. Rotating the stops allows you to change the blade pitch to suit changing conditions or materials

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apply or add designated greases and lubricants to the specified lubrication points. ÑAfter reassembly, check all parts for proper tightening and operation. ÑWhen two persons work together, pay attention to the mutual working safety. ÑDisconnect the battery negative (-) terminal before operation. ÑWhen using a spanner or other tools, make sure not to damage the motorcycle surface. ÑAfter operation, check all connecting points, fasteners, and lines for proper connection and installation. ÑWhen connecting the battery, the positive (+) terminal must be connected first. ÑAfter connection, apply grease to the battery terminals. ÑTerminal caps shall be installed securely. 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-6 ATV 300/250 ÑIf the fuse is burned out, find the cause and repair it. Replace it with a new one according to the specified capacity. ÑAfter operation, terminal caps shall be installed securely. ÑWhen taking out the connector, the lock on the connector shall be released before operation. ÑHold the connector body when connecting or disconnecting it. ÑDo not pull the connector wire. ÑCheck if any connector terminal is bending, protruding or loose. Confirm Capacity 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-7 ATV 300/250 ÑThe connector shall be inserted completely. ÑIf the double connector has a lock, lock it at the correct position. ÑCheck if there is any loose wire

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1. Tire Pressure and Rotation : Keep the nominal tire pressure at about 20-25 psi. It is not necessary to periodically rotate the trike tires unless you experience unusual tire wear. 2. Bearing Lubrication . Your Swing Arm and wheel bearings are sealed and do not require greasing. However, should you experience unusual wheel bearing noise you should take your trike to a Champion Trike Dealer or to your motorcycle mechanic for a checkup. 3. Body Lubrication . There are no grease fittings on the trike body and no required body lubrication points. 4. Rear end lubrication . Your differential comes filled with 1 quart of SAE 85W140 API GL-6 gear oil. You should not have to top-off the differential unless you experience axle seal or pinion seal leaks. Check the oil level every 10,000 miles, or sooner if you experience leaks, and refill as necessary. Do not fill higher than the fill-hole. Change the differential oil every 30,000 – 35,000 miles. 5. Brakes . Check your front and rear brake system fluid levels every 3,000 miles and top-off as necessary. Inspect brake pads every 10,000 miles and replace as necessary. Pads are Volkswagen Part # D101P. 6. Drive Train . If your driveshaft U-joint and/or spline are fitted with grease fittings, pump the fittings with wheel- bearing, graphite or high-pressure grease every 3000 to 5,000 miles. If yours does not have grease fittings then lubrication is not required. 7. Suspension System : The suspension system is designed to give you the best ride with a load of no more than 500 pounds (passengers plus cargo plus trailer tongue weight)

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1. Tire Pressure and Rotation : Keep the nominal tire pressure at about 23-27psig. It is not necessary to periodically rotate the trike tires unless you experience unusual tire wear. 2. Bearing Lubrication . Your Swing Arm and wheel bearings are sealed and do not require greasing. However, should you experience unusual wheel bearing noise you should take your trike to a Champion Trike Dealer or to your motorcycle mechanic for a checkup. 3. Body Lubrication . There are no grease fittings on the trike body and no required body lubrication points. 4. Rear end lubrication . Your differential comes filled with SAE 85W140 API GL-6 gear oil. You should not have to top-off the differential unless you experience axle seal or pinion seal leaks. If you want to check the oil level, do so by removing the fill plug on the top of the differential housing (Remove seat) and by using a suitable measuring device, the oil level should be 5 1/4″ inch down from the top of the differential housing. Refill as necessary. Change the differential oil every 30,000 – 35,000 miles by draining it and refill with 2 quarts of above gear oil.. 5. Brakes . Check your front and rear brake system fluid levels every 3,000 miles and top-off as necessary. Inspect brake pads every 10,000 miles and replace as necessary. Rear brake pads are Volkswagen Part # D101P. 6. Drive Train . The rear driveshaft U-joint and slip yoke spline are fitted with grease fittings, pump the fittings with wheel-bearing, graphite or high-pressure grease every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. The front u-joint does not have grease fittings. 7. Suspension System : The suspension is a Double A-arm Independent suspension with a standard single setting anti-roll bar or an optional Variable Sway Control (VSC) which can be adjustment for optimal ride, handling characteristics and performance. The A- arms are equiped with bushings that does not require servicing. The suspension system is designed to give you the best ride with a load of no more than 600 pounds (passengers plus cargo plus trailer tongue weight): 8. EZ-Steer (rake kit) : If your trike is equipped with Champion’s EZ-Steer, the bearings are a wear item. You should follow your motorcycle manufacturer’s recommended front-end triple-tree maintenance requirements. Generally these call for an initial service at 1,000 miles followed by periodic maintenance at 10,000 mile intervals

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1. Tire Pressure and Rotation : Keep the nominal tire pressure at about 20-25 psi. It is not necessary to periodically rotate the trike tires unless you experience unusual tire wear. 2. Bearing Lubrication . Your Swing Arm and wheel bearings are sealed and do not require greasing. However, should you experience unusual wheel bearing noise you should take your trike to a Champion Trike Dealer or to your motorcycle mechanic for a checkup. 3. Body Lubrication . There are no grease fittings on the trike body and no required body lubrication points. 4. Rear end lubrication . Your differential comes filled with 1 quart of SAE 85W140 API GL-6 gear oil. You should not have to top-off the differential unless you experience axle seal or pinion seal leaks. Check the oil level every 10,000 miles, or sooner if you experience leaks, and refill as necessary. Do not fill higher than the fill-hole. Change the differential oil every 30,000 – 35,000 miles. 5. Brakes . Check your front and rear brake system fluid levels every 3,000 miles and top-off as necessary. Inspect brake pads every 10,000 miles and replace as necessary. Pads are Volkswagen Part # D101P. 6. Drive Train . If your driveshaft U-joint and/or splines are fitted with grease fittings, pump the fittings with wheel-bearing, graphite or high-pressure grease every 3000 to 5,000 miles. If yours does not have grease fittings then lubrication is not required. 7. Suspension System : The suspension system is designed to give you the best ride with a load of no more than 500 pounds (passengers plus cargo plus trailer tongue weight): GL1500: The OEM adjustable air shock is used in conjunction with two (2) new Progressive 416 air shocks. The three shocks should be pressurized to about 20 psig, but to no more than 70 psig; GL1800: You can still use your OEM mono-shock pre-load adjustment. Your two (2) new coil-over shocks do not have an air system connection. However, there is a pre-load adjuster ring on each new shock that is factory-set at the “lowest” setting, for the softest ride. Changing this setting will result in a stiffer ride. 8. EZ-Steer (rake kit) : If your trike is equipped with Champion’s EZ-Steer, the bearings are a wear item. You should follow your motorcycle manufacturer’s recommended front-end triple-tree maintenance requirements. Generally these call for an initial service at 1,000 miles followed by periodic maintenance at 10,000 mile intervals. 9. Electrical : Your trike is pre-wired for a trailer connection. The harness is just below the trunk door on the underside of the body.

download This nitrous manifold greatly simplifies the way extra fuel is delivered that is needed for nitrous use. The carburetor vents are connected to this manifold, allowing the carburetor(s) to breathe normally through the airbox when nitrous is not used. When nitrous is sprayed, the manifold produces a positive pressure that goes to the carburetor float bowl, which “pushes” more fuel through the main jet of the carburetor(s). This eliminates the need for an extra fuel pump, fuel solenoid, extra plumbing, and nozzle(s) that are necessary to inject the extra fuel in other systems.This manifold is also designed to vary the float bowl pressure in relation to nitrous pressure, thus keeping the nitrous and fuel delivery in sync. Fluctuations in bottle temperature greatly affect nitrous pressure, which affects nitrous delivery. By automatically adjusting the fuel delivery as nitrous pressure varies, this manifold makes nitrous safe, reliable, and easy to use. The valve shown in picture (A) will require both the 4an x 1/8 npt fitting and the 1/8 npt plug. The valve shown in picture (B) will only need the 4an x 1/8 npt fitting. Use thread sealant on these fittings, be sure not to get any sealant inside the valve. Remove the upper mounting bolts on the front bumper. Install bracket support strap and reinstall the mounting bolts. 2. Install rear strap mounts over frame tubes. 3. Attach saddle bracket to support brackets, front and rear using supplied hardware.

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When a vehicle is so equipped, the pilot must be replaced. The pilot is located in either the engine’s crankshaft or in the center of the flywheel. To remove a flywheel-fit pilot, remove the flywheel from the engine and drive or press out the pilot from the backside of the flywheel. Press or gently tap new pilot into flywheel after flywheel has been machined (where applicable). For crankshaft-fit pilots, an effective means for removal is to select a drift punch or wooden dowel that fits snugly into the old pilot. Then, pack the old pilot tightly with grease. Using the drift punch (or dowel) and a hammer, drive the grease toward the engine. The grease will not compress and will in turn push the old pilot out of the crankshaft. Install the new pilot carefully using a bearing driver. NOTE: Do not grease new pilots. New pilot bearings come pre-greased (often with special synthetic grease). Bronze pilot bushings have oil in the pores of the material that grease will clog. For bushings, a few drops of 30W oil can be used if desired. PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC Install flywheel (refer to flywheel section above) . Always tighten flywheel to crankshaft bolts in a star pattern to manufacturer’s torque specification. Before installing the disc, make sure that it slides smoothly on the transmission input shaft. Apply a thin coat of high temperature grease (such as wheel bearing grease) to the splines of the input shaft. DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE! It does not cling to rotating parts. Slide the disc back and forth on the input shaft and remove any extra grease that squishes out of the splines of the disc. Do not get grease or oil on the disc facing. Any grease or oil on a disc facing can be removed with alcohol or brake cleaner if done quickly. Lay the disc on the flywheel noting the flywheel side of the disc and hold it in place with the alignment tool. Clean the pressure ring of the pressure plate with brake cleaner to remove the rust inhibiting coating. Do not spray the entire pressure plate with brake cleaner as lube for internal parts will be removed. Set the pressure plate on the flywheel dowel pins (if equipped) and hand tighten the hold-down bolts. With hand tools, tighten pressure plate bolts ½ turn at a time in a star pattern until the manufacturer’s torque specification is met. Remove the alignment tool. NOTE: Different brands of the same pressure plate may have a difference in appearance and uninstalled lever height. These are not issues. Appearance can vary greatly and the installed lever height will be the same.

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Break-in of this camshaft is important and you should adhere to all of the following instructions. It is also very important to use plenty of engine assembly lubricant, recommended is Coastal Engine Assembly Lube or Clevite 77, both are available from most automotive supply companies. We recommend you change the engine oil before the initial start-up of the engine after the assembly. Then change the oil again after the break-in of the cams to remove the excess
phosphate from the coated cams. These steps will help ensure that the camshaft breaks-in properly and that you have a long lasting product. Using full synthetic engine oil during break-in is not recommended but, is OK to use after the one-hour break-in period is over. Following a regular maintenance schedule is the best way to ensure durability and performance over the long run. Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. Remove the fuel tank and thoroughly clean the inside of the frame rails, around the carburetor, and behind the radiators. Be sure to remove the ignition coil assembly and using high-pressure air, clean the spark plug hole out before the plug is removed. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly