Clutch problem I'm having a clutch issue that I've been unable to solve.
When I first fire the engine and ride away, all is well. I can rev up the engine with no hint of slippage. However, after riding for 20 minutes or so, the clutch begins to slip badly and I have to creep back home using about 1/4 throttle.
I've changed the oil (10w40) and filter.
I've bled the clutch but the condition continues. When I bought the bike in 92 I also bought the Suzuki Service Manual, but I can't find anything in it that'll point me in the right direction.
I'm hoping that someone can give me an idea of where to look and what to look for. I've built Chevy engines for more years than I can remember (30+), but I never got into clutches/trans.
I do have plenty of tools and time (since I'm retired) so I'd appreciate any help.
Thanks,

Has the clutch lever been off for any reason? Here is why I ask: When I put on my V-Strom guards I made a mistake putting the clutch lever back on. There is a brass bushing in the end of the lever (like where the lead head for a cable would go). That bushing spins inside the lever. That bushing has a hole drilled into it (or hell mine did). There is a pushrod for the master cylinder. That pushrod must fit precisely into that hole.
My clutch lever popped out during the install and I didn't see that it fit such precision. It went together and rode just exactly how you describe.
If it's not that make sure the lever is moving smoothly and fully inside its holder for its full range of motion.
Have you bled the clutch to the point that new fluid is fully in the system? If not keep on bleeding! There is another possiblity that (given the age) part of seal broke loose and is blocking the return port.

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If you hear the starter relay click, but not turn over the motor that's a classic low/dead battery situation. There is only enough power left for the battery to click the starter but is not powerful enough to actually turn the engine over.

three ways you can deal with this issue. First replace the battery.Second give the battery a charge using either a battery charger or the more common battery trickle charger (battery tenderizer) which most motorcycle owners use to keep their bikes battery charged over long periods of non use like the winter. If you have a tenderizer just hook it up to the battery, plug it into the wall and let it trickle charge for about 12-16 hours or so and then try again.

If the starter is actually turning over but you arent gettting the engine to fire then it has to be one of the only two remaining variables that we need for combustion, spark and fuel. check you spark plugs for excessive wear, carbon buildup or damage, and then check the spacing or just replace them. if you see a spark when you fire the starter than its not a plug issue.

Finally fuel. Is there gas in the tank? can you hear the fuel pump click on once you turn the key to on? is the line creased or corroded, if you unplug the line do you see fuel being pumped in?

those are your three possibilities.

Another easy thing to try to check if it is a batteyr issue and you don't have a charger is to try push starting the bike

First, make sure that your bike isn't starting just because you are out of gas. If you're out of gas, this will not work.

Make sure the key is in the on position

Put the bike in 2nd gear

Hold the clutch in and begin pushing, preferably downhill, but it will work elsewhere as well.

Once you've gathered
enough momentum, apply a minimal amount of throttle (not too much or the
bike will get away from you) and hop on the bike just as you release
the clutch.

If noise goes away when clutch is pulled then it is a loose clutch basket,you need to replace clutch basket and clutch,They make complete replacment kits.Its not a big deal but I would stop riding it till you replace worn parts.Running it the way it is will result in a blown clutch and could do more damage.If you have some mechanical ability you can change this yourself.Good Luck Brian.....

Hello
A new clucth will slip a little at first. Its recommended to try to make the clucthes slip.
i just put in a set that instructed me to make the clutches slip.
A brand new set of clutches needs to seat and it will take a few times riding it before it does.

If they continue to slips after a few rides then you should have your master cylinder bled.
If the clutches are not engaging all the way, the clucthes will slip and motor revs but bike dont move.
if the clucthes are not disengaging all the way, the clutches drag, and the bike will edge forward because the clucthes are not disengaing from the motor.

Thats a pretty simple set up, hydraulic just needs to be bled all the way in the same manner you bleed a brake caliper.
once bled there is no adjustment and the clutches should disengage and engage within the first 1/2 inch of pulling in the lever.

Hope that helps, and don't worry about your new clucthes, they will slipp a little but will go away.
i'm sure of it.
Best Regards
Big Al

This is a problem that is very hard to solve on line... It could be human error.. But it could be because of power or carburation issues as well. Best thing I can tell you is to remove the spark plugs and tell me what color they are. Spark plugs are an excelent indicator of the true performance of the engine. Attach pictures of the porcilan and electrode area. This will help me determine if it is error or not.

Has the clutch lever been off for any reason? Here is why I ask: When I put on my V-Strom guards I made a mistake putting the clutch lever back on. There is a brass bushing in the end of the lever (like where the lead head for a cable would go). That bushing spins inside the lever. That bushing has a hole drilled into it (or hell mine did). There is a pushrod for the master cylinder. That pushrod must fit precisely into that hole.
My clutch lever popped out during the install and I didn't see that it fit such precision. It went together and rode just exactly how you describe.
If it's not that make sure the lever is moving smoothly and fully inside its holder for its full range of motion.
Have you bled the clutch to the point that new fluid is fully in the system? If not keep on bleeding! There is another possiblity that (given the age) part of seal broke loose and is blocking the return port.

Has the clutch lever been off for any reason? Here is why I ask: When I put on my V-Strom guards I made a mistake putting the clutch lever back on. There is a brass bushing in the end of the lever (like where the lead head for a cable would go). That bushing spins inside the lever. That bushing has a hole drilled into it (or hell mine did). There is a pushrod for the master cylinder. That pushrod must fit precisely into that hole.
My clutch lever popped out during the install and I didn't see that it fit such precision. It went together and rode just exactly how you describe.
If it's not that make sure the lever is moving smoothly and fully inside its holder for its full range of motion.
Have you bled the clutch to the point that new fluid is fully in the system? If not keep on bleeding! There is another possiblity that (given the age) part of seal broke loose and is blocking the return port.

Sounds a lot like clutch slippage to me. First I would check clutch oil. If it is low or worn enough to have lost its viscosity that could be the cause.
Here is the backyard **** mechanic way to check clutch wear and slippage. Crude but effective. Point the bike toward a sturdy flat stationary object (a brick wall?). Roll the front wheel firmly against the wall. Make sure the bike is perfectly perpendicular to the wall, the frot wheel is aligned straight, and that the rear wheel is on a solid surface (concrete or asphalt -- not grass or dirt). Climb aboard into riding position and start the bike. In first gear clutch in, rev the bike as you would for a moderate start away from a stop (maybe 3k-4k or so) and slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is good, as the clutch starts to grab the revs will go down noticeably, and as it gets fully engaged or close to it the bike will stall. If the clutch is slipping (depending on how bad it is) the motor will continue to spin at pretty much the same speed as the clutch is engaged. This is a kind of touch-feel thing but if the clutch is bad, you should know it.
Needless to say do this carefully and at your own risk, but it works a wonder if you do it right.
Another way to check is to ride the bike. Get into the power range barely (above 8K) and hold it steady. Does not really matter what gear, but I suggest 2nd or 3rd. Whack the throttle. If the RPMs rise quickly (quicker than the speed) you've got clutch slippage.,,,