Nothing sums up this joyless, patronising government quite like a calorie cap on pizza

Follow the author of this article

Follow the topics within this article

Will we be allowed to eat this any more, under the government's plans?

The best pizza of my life? A margherita in a grubby, neon-lit joint on a stormy night in Naples. The base was tangy and crisp, the bubbling mozzarella sweet and salty; not for the first time, I bowed my head and gave a silent prayer of thanks to the culinary heroes who invented this dish – then devoured the lot.