The wood-fired pizza oven produces the remarkable plate-size pies with crusts as thin as a whisper. It's hard to wrench yourself away from pizza, but if you don't, you'll miss out. The Nostrana salad of radicchio in a Caesar dressing is a serious contender for the prize of best salad in Portland.

A large boulangerie and patisserie delivers an incongruous bit of elegance to mid-Southeast Division Street. The perfect croissants are so light they nearly float. The breakfasts are both hearty and gourmet and for lunch, there are daily quiches and tarts, sandwiches, and big salads.

Chef Gabriel Rucker (formerly sous-chef at Gotham Building Tavern) is invariably behind the open kitchen, welcoming customers with a friendly, good-natured cheer. Visitors will be just as pleased with the terrific, frequently changing food.

Reasons to visit this airy, Lebanese restaurant include: reasonable prices and a menu of nicely done Middle Eastern classics interspersed with more exotic options. Good for vegetarians and takeout, too.