The business has grown exponentially. And this is why in 2011 Dane Reynolds decided to quit surfing as it felt more like a job. For him it all felt wrong, too big, too much pressure, not enough fun and balanced. The race to coolness and hipness was too odd.

Yet there you stand, looking at the waves. Meet: Dane Reynolds!

Considered as one of the best surfers in the world, Dane Reynolds is the embodiment of a surf revival. An aerial, creative surf without compromise. He may even be the best thing to happen to surfing in the last decade. Desillusion Magazine’s editor in chief Sebastien Zanella followed Dane from Hawaii through to his hometown Ventura in California, to get an true insight of his life away from the spotlight. (source)

THIS IS DANE REYNOLDS

Similiarly introspected comes “Hotel Kamtchatka” – a film about a somewhat special “surfcamp” in the easternmost part off Russia. Granted Nixon is a partner of the event but it’s still a gathering without competition and attention.

Ten of the best European surfers are invited to an unknown surf destination, to battle against their own fears & human limits without the pressures of the public or the press. An unexpected quest, one where the only enemy is yourself and your best ally is nature, in its rawest, purest form. In June 2014, the wild terrain of Kamchatka, Russia, was chosen to host this uncommon event. (source)

HOTEL NOWHERE – KAMTCHATKA

“Dawn Patrol” then eventually shows two minutes of pure surfing.

“It’s not the waves you catch, how hard or how strong. It’s the wind in your hair, the ocean’s song. Knowing you can’t, almost certain you can. Endless blue, with a bare sight of land. Getting to know the oceans, dolphins and fish your friends. Too many mistakes, that you need now not mend. The loss of all worries, the bad, the worst. Nothing is practiced, nothing rehearsed. The surfer’s only knowledge, of what’s going on, is the coming of the waves, in the wake of the DAWN.” (source)