KlK, one fist jam actually, with some face holds. Laine posted one on the Woodfords thread. Mine are tied up in files. I'll look to see what number post it was and have to have someone set up a link...I'm retarted
Post 1744 fourth photo down, oh sh#t. He takes some fine pictures. Dank

Would be really hard to beat White Punks on Dope for best 5.8 climb. Or Braille Book. Commitment to Sellangenella is a logical link up for 7 amazing pitches that are about 5.7-8. One move on commitment is supposed to be a 5.9 but I think it is easier, especially compared to other climbs.

On top of cool multi-pitch climbing, you get awesome vistas and exposure, looking down on the tallest waterfall in North America with rainbow mist spewing about (if you pick the proper season), and you can link it up with Commitment and Selaginella that Vitaliy just recommended, which are both awesome climbs (but above the 5.7 threshold).

Who really knows the best 5.7? There are probably some in the Shasta T that would rival any. But i also know Chim and the Czar and their routes. So if they say its a full value deal, i tend to believe them. Two LIPS MUST be a viable contender.

And the All American Finger crack rates HIGH as a CA 5.8 as well. But by popularity alone the perfect lie back ranks HIGH. Theres been like three feet of dg removed from the base just by belayers! Ten years from now it will be another twenty feet longer lol!

ps,, one of the BEST 5.7 face climbs in KNEEVADA is "deadmans rappel". ;^)

Why would I drive all the way up there, passing JT, the Needles, the Valley, Courtright, Cal & Hammer Domes,Balch Camp, SEKI, etc, along the way, all of which are 1000x times better, to climb on that little hill of choss?

As we seem to be casting votes here - I'll put the upper pitch of West Crack on Daff Dome into the ring. Double Dog Leg is also right up there. Mental Physics was perhaps a bit oversold when I did it. Still a fantastic climb though. Stiff competition.

Looks like 30-40 feet of crack in a random corner. With trees and crap around it. Maybe some ok climbing for short distance but not something to drive for. Based on the photo only...it is awesome you guys are having a blast putting up new routes there though, wish I lived closer. FOR SURE would be out there often.

the other day when I first stumbled into this thread, I checked it out on Mountain Project. There, Laine hisself has two-lips rated 5.8 and 2 stars...no pics. Looks nice to me...but I'll be dammed if I will ever fully get ratings. Seem somewhat beholdent to how well the day is going. hand of god, on the other hand, looks really, really sweet.

Now the cat's out of the bag, Woodfords is going to look like Malibu on a summer Saturday.

skcreidc - I felt it was 5.8 (but I'm not solid at the grade like Dan). And I did post a pic on MP.

As for HoG, I've done p1 and p4 and you are correct, stellar stuff(assuming the roof pitch doesn't suck). Hoping to rope the infamous Mark Bauer into an ascent by spring time (wishful thinking I imagine).

Laine, must have missed that photo somehow. The shot you posted here of two lips looks really fun though. And those comments about ratings were actually more generic and not towards you at all. I consider ratings as "general" guidelines, and if someone asked me my opinion...I tend to defer to someone with more confidence.

I think my favorite pitch of 5.7 crack in CA is the handcrack corner at the top of The Yawn in Tuolumne. Steep, fun, perfect rock, and a satisfyingly long pitch. Here's someone else's photo of ithttp://www.mountainproject.com/v/106224124

I've really enjoyed climbing at Woodfords and there are some great climbs up there, but some of the zealots are getting a little nuts over this place. Two lips was fun and had some really good movement on it, but there was also some stuff that made the climb less than classic (ledgey and blocky stuff in the middle, some loose rock, etc). That can be said about a lot of stuff at Woodfords, however. Best 5.7 (I'd buy 5.8 as well) at Woodfords, maybe. Best 5.7 in Cali? Not by a long shot.

Mr Dan K,,, Youve done MUCH in "the Fords". Your love of the area shows and is appreciated by EVERY SINGLE PERSON to ever walk up the semi vertical pismo beach that is "the Fords" approaches. So you get labeled a zealot,, and in my book that is OTAY.. OF COURSE the "best" anything will never be defined and or agreed upon. And that is OTAY tu...