On a more serious note, I am thinking about letting joker port my supercharger, throttle body, and intake elbow. What do you guys think?

Building a drag racing truck or a street truck? IMHO a total waste of money on the street, even on the strip unless you are going to put in low rear ratio, full drag slicks, very stiff chassis. No gain on the street (where you ever going to wind it out enough to get into the range, and how would you even know the difference if you did?) maybe a 0.1 or .2 on the strip, but so what in bracket racing???

Building a drag racing truck or a street truck? IMHO a total waste of money on the street, even on the strip unless you are going to put in low rear ratio, full drag slicks, very stiff chassis. No gain on the street (where you ever going to wind it out enough to get into the range, and how would you even know the difference if you did?) maybe a 0.1 or .2 on the strip, but so what in bracket racing???

You're probably right. It will be mostly a street truck with limited time at the drag strip. I guess I am looking to beat my buddy's procharged 71 chevy. He put down 630 or so hp to the tires, but his truck is a lot heavier than mine. I am trying to get to the 500 hp mark without breaking the bank. I'm already into this project close to 20k not including the truck lol. with the porting I'm probably looking at a 30 to 40 hp gain at the tires for $450.

You're probably right. It will be mostly a street truck with limited time at the drag strip. I guess I am looking to beat my buddy's procharged 71 chevy. He put down 630 or so hp to the tires, but his truck is a lot heavier than mine. I am trying to get to the 500 hp mark without breaking the bank. I'm already into this project close to 20k not including the truck lol. with the porting I'm probably looking at a 30 to 40 hp gain at the tires for $450.

Yes, more likely a 0-15 hp gain depending if you get a good dyno re-tune (3-400.00) after by someone who really knows what they are doing, and that gain will be only in the very top 1K RPM. You will spend so little time in that RPM range that like I said will likely give you no more than 0.1 sec lower et. Without the tune it may even go slower. Just getting a good tune by a REAL tuner shop with a dyno and a tech real familiar with tuning your engine, not just some kid down the street with a laptop and an OBDII cord, will likely give you more gain. HP engines these days are pretty much hypertuned from the factory then dialed back a scunch to make the feds happy and reduce the number of amateur heavy footers climbing telephone poles or trying to knock down trees on the street. There are Mustangs with your engine putting out >600 HP right off the assembly line and a couple hundred more hp just playing with the numbers, but it's real hard and expensive to put that much HP to the pavement especially in an a$$ light old pickup with the frontal drag of a barn, and is not much fun to try to drive on the street. Be sure you put in a good full roll cage, solidly mounted racing seat, and SFI rated harness, and wear a good helmet!

By the way, we are putting a 4.6 3V out of a 2007 GT with 5650 in Gary's F1 with 3" dropped beam axle and Toyota power steering box. Right now we are in the process of building one of my design mounts for the PS box since Classic Haulers was out of their conversion mount and said the guy who was making them has disappeared. The OEM engine mounts sit right over the frame so we are going to use them with a set of early CSB mount biscuits. We are not sure what we are going to use for headers yet, the OEM Mustang ones driver side exits directly at the steering box. Sanderson makes a set of block huggers they think (and we hope) will work. The Mustang tranny has the remote shifter that sits behind the tail shaft. I am going to modify a Hurst short shifter kit to move it about 10-12" forward.

You're probably right. It will be mostly a street truck with limited time at the drag strip. I guess I am looking to beat my buddy's procharged 71 chevy. He put down 630 or so hp to the tires, but his truck is a lot heavier than mine. I am trying to get to the 500 hp mark without breaking the bank. I'm already into this project close to 20k not including the truck lol. with the porting I'm probably looking at a 30 to 40 hp gain at the tires for $450.

Sorry AX but porting of the stock eaton is worth 30-40. I'm a fan of 03/04 cobras and before my good buddy put a kenne bell on his he had Posi Performance do a port on the supercharger, a 2.76 upper and a 4lb lower and he was at 520. Not sure if he had to add bigger injectors .. He's now at the 700hp mark

Sorry AX but porting of the stock eaton is worth 30-40. I'm a fan of 03/04 cobras and before my good buddy put a kenne bell on his he had Posi Performance do a port on the supercharger, a 2.76 upper and a 4lb lower and he was at 520. Not sure if he had to add bigger injectors .. He's now at the 700hp mark

Sorry back, but making a laundry list of changes including a likely (and necessary) re-tune (and possibly bigger injectors per you) can not be attributed to just the porting. I would want to see a chassis dyno pull chart before and after the porting only and also see at what RPM any increase was present vs the other changes without the porting. I just can't see Ford leaving 30-40 HP on the table with this engine when any porting could be so easily accomplished for them on their cnc machines during manufacture.
My bottom line is that even 30-40 additional HP is not going to be apparent on the street, and not even on the strip without a lot of other changes that would make the truck much less drivable on the street. A combo drag race/street car is never very good at either BTDT.

If I didn't have first hand experience messing with these motors I would agree with you. I almost didn't call my buddy to find out because what do I care if you don't believe me but i was now curious too. With a tune and the pulleys was around 460 then porting, bigger injectors, and a tune put him at 500 and then with a killer chiller got it to the 520+ mark.