Eat American!

Summer's bounty inspires young chefs

"Welcome to America!" What sounds like the official greeting at a U.S. international airport is in fact the standard hello to customers at one of New York City's newest, largest and most successful café-restaurants, called America. In a larger sense, that greeting is equally appropriate for style-conscious eaters who formerly restricted their gastronomic forays to France, where they devoted vacation times to seeking out the specialties of superstar chefs like Paul Bocuse, Michel Guérard and the Troisgros brothers. Now with equal zeal, many such adventurers are beginning to tour the U.S., eager to sample the highly publicized culinary creations that make...