Finish

16 posts in this topic

What's the most tooth resistant finish you guys have found so far that is readily available? I've tried a few different finishes such as epoxy finish for rod building and haven't been incredibly impressed by the teeth that cut right through into the wood. Thanks to all in advance.

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I think epoxy is one of the toughest, most tooth-proof topcoats you can get, especially applied in multiple coats to yield a thick coating. Many of the top custom musky and striper bait builders use it. I prefer moisture cured polyurethane for bass baits. I think it's a little tougher and slicker than epoxy BUT it's a very thin coating and is difficult to build up with multiple coats because it tends to blemish when applied over itself.

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From what I've seen on T.V., never having seen one live, they look like barricuda to me, and nothing will stop a barri's teeth. They even scratch steel.

The best chance you have is to make your lure body very hard, either with some kind of hard resin, or from PVC. Both are waterproof, so, even when, not if, the muskie punctures the clear coat, the lure won't swell and ruin the paint job.

If you have a hard lure body, that resists denting, the clear coat stands a much better chance of lasting.

Unfortunately, the hardest clear coat, Devcon 2 Ton, is also the most prone to cracking and flaking off, if it is penetrated. It's really designed to be a glue, which does not move. The other type of epoxy clear coat is the decoupage type, like Etex, which are designed to be flexible so they can expand and contract with the large table and counter top surfaces they typically are use to cover.

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The primer is what is most critical to protect the wood in my opinion. I use a high quality int/ext latex primer $30/gallon. I dip my lure only once and let it cure for a good couple of months. At this point the primer is rock hard, some sanding and touch up with a foam brush is all I do.

Sure, you could seal the wood with envirotex but not only is that expensive for a primer it also adds weight to the lure especially if you're going to clear the top coat 2-3 more times. I have a 12'' glider that's been gouged and the teeth have yet to penetrate the wood.

My 2cents

s54

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I think epoxy is one of the toughest, most tooth-proof topcoats you can get, especially applied in multiple coats to yield a thick coating. Many of the top custom musky and striper bait builders use it. I prefer moisture cured polyurethane for bass baits. I think it's a little tougher and slicker than epoxy BUT it's a very thin coating and is difficult to build up with multiple coats because it tends to blemish when applied over itself.

Hmmmm...Bob, I, along with severral other people I know always apply multiple coats with DN, and have never encountered your blemish problem(I've applied as many as 9 coats on a bait before)...I don't know your application process, but feel free to pm me if you'd like to work on the matter...can't be that difficult to find the problem...are you suspicious as to what the cause may be?

Dean

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Guys.... funny you bring this up. I just finished my first few baits using DN. I only applied one coat on a few boats but after catching a few fish, the finish didn't hold up as good as I was hoping. I only let them cure for about 4 days. After coming home that afternoon I decided I would dip the others to apply a second coat. Just noticed this afternoon that several of them are showing major problems. Looks like wrinkling skin under the second coat? Several questions for those with more DN experience.

How long do you let DN cure after first coat?

What the heck could have caused my wrinkling problems on the second coat?

Thanks for all the helpful info.... been reading for a while, but just started painting. Oh and sorry for the post hijack.......GT.

Justin

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Guys.... funny you bring this up. I just finished my first few baits using DN. I only applied one coat on a few boats but after catching a few fish, the finish didn't hold up as good as I was hoping. I only let them cure for about 4 days. After coming home that afternoon I decided I would dip the others to apply a second coat. Just noticed this afternoon that several of them are showing major problems. Looks like wrinkling skin under the second coat? Several questions for those with more DN experience.

How long do you let DN cure after first coat?

What the heck could have caused my wrinkling problems on the second coat?

Thanks for all the helpful info.... been reading for a while, but just started painting. Oh and sorry for the post hijack.......GT.

Justin

justin,

no worries...this is by no means a post hijack as the reply will only make me more educated on this matter and this is exactly the type of info I was looking for!

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I just experienced the same problem with DN. I went to put a second coat on 2 muskie lures and one of them wrinkled very badly. I put the first coat on about a week ago. Have any of you guys had the problem with DN when you first apply it, it wants to eat up/ smear your base/final paint ???

Also, are there any good top coat sprays out there,that are tough ???

FUBAR

Edited February 16, 2010 by FUBAR

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On some lures I have dipped them more than once and had no problems with DN. What type of paint are you using? Are you painting sealed wood lures or plastic baits? If your using water based paints are you heat setting them and making sure they are completely dry before dipping? Not sure, but it could be a moisture problem.

RG

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RG... I am using createx paint on plastic baits and heat setting with a hair dryer. I usually heat set them pretty good between coats and before clear coat. My first coat looked great but just didn't hold up like I was expecting, probably my fault. I may not have let it cure long enough after the first coat (about 4 days).

I was dipping bandits and lucky craft baits. All of the bandits looked fine after the second coat, but every one of the lucky craft wrinkled. The only difference that I am aware of is that the bandits had an additional two days of drying time after the first coat. I have some drying now that I plan to wait a full week before dipping the second coat.... will let you know how those turn out when they are done. Thanks for your response!

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RG... I am using createx paint on plastic baits and heat setting with a hair dryer. I usually heat set them pretty good between coats and before clear coat. My first coat looked great but just didn't hold up like I was expecting, probably my fault. I may not have let it cure long enough after the first coat (about 4 days).

I was dipping bandits and lucky craft baits. All of the bandits looked fine after the second coat, but every one of the lucky craft wrinkled. The only difference that I am aware of is that the bandits had an additional two days of drying time after the first coat. I have some drying now that I plan to wait a full week before dipping the second coat.... will let you know how those turn out when they are done. Thanks for your response!

If your heat setting the Createx then it's probably not a moisture problem. I'm using Createx on plastic baits as well and not having the problem you are. When I dip a lure the longest between dips is usually not over 24 hours. Are you making sure not to touch the lure with your bare hand? This could leave oil from your hand on the lure. I know that sounds like a pretty obvious precaution, but it is a mistake we sometimes make. BobP and Dean have a lot more experience with DN than I do. Maybe they will chime in on this.

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I really haven't thought about me handling the bait between coats causing the problem (rookie)..... I'm sure I touched them some because in the beginning I wasn't planning on a second coat. That could certainly be a possible cause...... Thanks!

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RG... I am using createx paint on plastic baits and heat setting with a hair dryer. I usually heat set them pretty good between coats and before clear coat. My first coat looked great but just didn't hold up like I was expecting, probably my fault. I may not have let it cure long enough after the first coat (about 4 days).

I was dipping bandits and lucky craft baits. All of the bandits looked fine after the second coat, but every one of the lucky craft wrinkled. The only difference that I am aware of is that the bandits had an additional two days of drying time after the first coat. I have some drying now that I plan to wait a full week before dipping the second coat.... will let you know how those turn out when they are done. Thanks for your response!

What did you do before you repainted the Lucky's? If you don't take the finish off them, all hell will break loose. It take about 30 seconds to take the finish off a Lucky. Just brush a thin coat of lacquer thinner and quickly wipe off the paint before it starts to eat the plastic. The finish on a Lucky is extremely sensitive to anything with solvent in it. (ask me how I found out) It is also very thin, so comes off super easy. I usually hit them with a very light coat of adhesion promoter afterward.

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I usually us gloves when painting..... I am sure I touched them with out gloves when they were dry. No more admiring my own work. lol

Tom.... to prep the luckys I just hit them real quick with high grit sand paper like all the others. Wasn't aware they needed more prep. This was my first attempt using DN on any baits..... D2T must not have the same effect. I appreciate the advice on stripping them.... Can I also use that method the remove the wrinkled DN to start over?

I have seen many pictures of your baits on BBC, you definitely have it figured out! Thanks again for the response.

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