Type
Some flowers and vegetables fall into subcategories that may define how they grow (such as pole or bush), what they are used for (such as slicing tomatoes or shelling peas), flower type, or other designations that will help you select the type of a class of plant that you are looking for.

Bell

Days To Maturity
The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

65 days

Fruit Size
The average size of the fruit produced by this product.

4 inches

Sun
The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Video

How to Sow and Plant

Only home gardeners who enjoy long growing seasons in the Deep South should attempt to sow pepper seeds directly in the vegetable garden. Most of us must start our own pepper plants indoors about 8-10 weeks before transplanting, which should be done 2-3 weeks after the expected last frost.

Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula

Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F

Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days

As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.

Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.

If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots

Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

To get an early start with your pepper plants, particularly in the North, cover the prepared bed with a dark colored polyethylene mulch at least a week before transplanting. This will heat the soil beneath and provide a better growing condition for young pepper plants. The mulch will also help the soil retain moisture throughout the season as the pepper plants grow.

Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.

Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.

Peppers should be set 18 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 2-3 feet apart.

Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.

Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.

Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.

Use a plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.

Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.

Peppers may also be planted in containers. Use a container at least 18-24 inches wide and deep and use a commercial potting mix rather than garden soil.

How to Grow

Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.

Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for peppers as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.

Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2" of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.

Note that hot peppers tend to be hotter when they have less water and fertilizer. If they receive plenty of water and fertilizer they may be more mild than expected.

Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Try planting pepper plants near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots in your home vegetable garden. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. Peppers are very colorful when in full fruit and combine well with green herbs, okra, beans and cucumber fences in the garden bed.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

Like cucumbers and summer squash, peppers are usually harvested at an immature stage. The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers may be harvested at any stage, but their flavor doesn’t fully develop until maturity. Fully ripe peppers in multi-colors are delightful in the garden as well as in salads.

Cut the fruit from the plant with a sharp knife or pruners leaving a small part of the stem attached.

Sweet bell, pimento and cherry peppers are delicious eaten green but are sweeter and higher in vitamins if allowed to turn bright red before harvest. Some varieties are yellow at maturity or may mature from green through yellow and red.

Hot peppers may be harvested at any stage. Anaheim is usually picked green and cayenne types red.

Bell peppers may be chopped and quick frozen for use in many recipes; sweet cherry and banana peppers and hot cherry peppers are perfect for pickling.

A popular and trouble-free way to store hot peppers is to dry them. String mature red peppers by piercing the stem with a needle and heavy thread. Hang the string in a warm, dry, airy place (not in the sun!) to dry. They can make a colorful kitchen accent. Pull a pepper from the string when you need one. Hot peppers remain hot even after they are dried. Remember that in recipes a little hot pepper can go a long way.

Please note that hot peppers can burn sensitive skin on contact and fumes from grinding or cooking them can irritate the lungs and eyes. When working with hot peppers use rubber gloves and wash your hands before touching your face or eyes.

Product Details

Type

Bell

Days To Maturity

65 days

Fruit Size

4 inches

Sun

Full Sun

Spread

12 inches

Height

18-24 inches

Sow Method

Indoor Sow

Planting Time

Spring

Sow Time

8-12 weeks BLF

Thin

24 inches

Reviews

Pepper, Sweet, Gypsy Hybrid is rated
4.7 out of
5 by
17.

Rated 5 out of
5 by
JP Gardener from
Awesome!I have bought these peppers for the last several years, along with a few other varieties. These are the sweetest, most productive peppers I've ever planted. If I had to limit myself to planting only one variety, it would be Gypsy Hybrid!

Date published: 2016-09-15

Rated 5 out of
5 by
Tomatofanatic from
Great Sweet Frying PepperMy wife and I tried this pepper when Burpee first introduced it 30-40 years ago. It has been a garden staple ever since. I start them with the tomatoes in late March under the grow light and plant them after our frost date of May 15th. By late July they are producing heavy yields of peppers right up until frost. Just before frost in the middle of Oct. they are usually laden down with many fruits that we pick and hold in the refrigerator for another month or more. They are great raw in salads or fried with onions and zucchinis. We love them fried with onions on top of bratwurst. 2-3 plants are plenty for a family of 2.
Happy gardening!

Date published: 2016-01-17

Rated 1 out of
5 by
JoJoFanBoy18 from
No ProductionI was so excited to grow this pepper, whether it be for the array of beautiful colors or for the promise of mass production, i was excited. The plant grew strongly and healthy and stayed self supported but the production was as terrible as it could possibly be. Of all the flowers that appeared on the plant, 4 peppers formed. Out of those 4, one turned brown and shriveled up when it was the size of a DIME, another one doing the same when it was the size of half my pinky finger, and the other two ripened but not nearly as big as they were supposed to get. Yep, that's right.. two small peppers out of the entire plant. It wasn't the soil, it was very rich and nourished. The weather conditions were normal for this area, 80 degree days 65 degree nights. They didn't receive too little nor too much water, and were fertilized lightly. I grew the plant in a container, so maybe the roots felt restricted and decided not to produce. Which is very unlikely because my other peppers did fine in an even smaller container. I will not be growing these again, it's a real shame too considering i had such high illusion for them.

Date published: 2014-07-30

Rated 5 out of
5 by
FARMERSKIP from
BEST RED PEPPERSTILL THE EARLIEST, SWEETEST RED PEPPER ON THE MARKET.

Date published: 2013-09-01

Rated 5 out of
5 by
Tomato2013 from
Always producesI used to have a BIG garden that had plenty of heat and I grew lots of different bell peppers; then one year I added some Gypsy's because of the color. I like sweet red peppers because they don't upset my stomach. Oh boy, was I hooked! Those plants outproduced the bells like nothing I ever saw! I made Gypsy my main pepper after that. The smaller size is really great for a household with one eater, and they turn red so much earlier than bells. One year I picked everything, red, orange and green in November but left the plants in the ground. They re-blossomed and I had peppers again in February! Now I have a tiny garden in a much cooler area so I grow my Gypsy's in 3 gallon pots. I still have to support them, they have so many peppers on them and I know I could never get a bell pepper to grow with the limited sunshine and heat I now have so Gypsy's are my pepper plant of choice.

Date published: 2013-08-29

Rated 5 out of
5 by
GweninLA from
Finally! Success with peppers!I've been gardening organically in this location for 30 years and never had much success with any sweet peppers. Nor did any of the neighbors. A few in late fall, meh :(
This year I ordered a Burpee Gypsy Pepper plant as part of the 'mix and match' deal.
WOW! We've been eating delicious peppers for weeks now. Very prolific plant and I will be growing again, next year.

Date published: 2013-08-28

Rated 5 out of
5 by
CindyT from
Best PepperI've grown Gypsy peppers in Central Kansas for many, many years. They are my favorite. I start them in mid February and have red peppers at the end of May. Each bush will have 4 or 5 peppers on it at all times throughout the summer.

Date published: 2013-08-28

Rated 5 out of
5 by
bdank from
High yeildsI got these pepper seeds by mistake one year and decided to plant them anyway. I was pleasantly surprised! I have grown them two years in a row now, and they out produce all the other varieties that I grow.