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New Spectrum 375

11-08-2006, 11:07 AM

Hi -

I'm have been teaching myself how to weld and fabricate for the past year and a half (taking classes at Busted Knuckle U). My goal from the start was light household fabrication, and custom motorcycle parts. I succeeded in building what I think were some nice parts (shift linkage, fenders, brake pedal, license plate/taillight brackets) for my own bike. I feel I have only learned the smallest tip of the iceberg when it comes to welding, but I'm getting better with each bead.

My biggest chore always seems to be cutting. All my cuts where done with an angle grinder and cutting wheel. I decided that since I did so much already, that it was time to splurge on a Spectrum 375 plasma unit. I took delivery last night.

I have two questions. First - what do people normally use for patterns? Is it possible to make a pattern out of cardboard and run the tip along it or does it just catch fire? Second - I want to do drag cutting so I got the drag cup, drag tips, and drag shield. After installing it the drag shield is flush with the tip. Seems like that kinda defeats the purpose. I checked it a million times to see if there was something I was doing wrong, but I haven't seen anything. Has anyone else installed the drag "stuff" on a 375?

The drag tip on my TD leaves about 1/16" of gap from the actual consumable tip insert.

Cardboard might not be a good idea, but I'm not positive about that. I tried taping off some lines and the tape melted and caught fire, but that's also a bit more direct contact with the work piece. If the 27 amp machine will get the work as hot as mine does @40 is another question entirely.

Syncrowave 250DX
Invison 354MP
XR Control and 30AAirco MED20 feederThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81Smith O/A rigAnd more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

Comment

The drag tip on my TD leaves about 1/16" of gap from the actual consumable tip insert.

Cardboard might not be a good idea, but I'm not positive about that. I tried taping off some lines and the tape melted and caught fire, but that's also a bit more direct contact with the work piece. If the 27 amp machine will get the work as hot as mine does @40 is another question entirely.

I have a 375 but not the drag cup ... I should look into it

We do have the stand-off roller attachment, and I think with this on the distance between the roller wheel and tip might be enough to allow a cardboard template.

How much distance between the tip and the side of the cup? Is the cup much wider than the torch body?

Best thing to do is try it. If ya have a piece of scrap long enough and some cardboard, run it along the edge for say 12" or more and see.

I'be doing the same myself.

QUESTION: Are the Drag Cup and Tips actual Miller Parts? I don't see them listed on the product accessory web pages

Comment

There's a separate cup that holds the drag insert for the TD 1Torch. What it does is mandates a little gap between the work and the tip, but I too have been dragging a standard tip just to gauge how durable they are (and it's holding up very well!).

I'll try to take some pics later.

Syncrowave 250DX
Invison 354MP
XR Control and 30AAirco MED20 feederThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81Smith O/A rigAnd more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

Comment

There's a separate cup that holds the drag insert for the TD 1Torch. What it does is mandates a little gap between the work and the tip, but I too have been dragging a standard tip just to gauge how durable they are (and it's holding up very well!).

I'll try to take some pics later.

Yes I understand some cuttter/torches have a seperate cup for drag use, but the OP mentions the Spectrum 375, and assuming he has the stock torch I am curious about his drag cup.

Comment

My 375 is bone-stock, just got it a couple days ago. The drag tip, cup, and shield are Miller parts. There is no gap between the tip and the drag shield. I called Miller tech support yesterday with this exact same question. The technician was very helpful. He went and got all the parts to see for himself. The good news - he came up with exactly what I had - no standoff with all the drag parts. The bad news - no standoff with all the drag parts. He literally told me he didn't know what to say. Anyway, I have decided that I am going to unscrew the drag shield enough to give me 1/16" stand off and see if it works. I did it last night with the power turned off, and just dragged the tip to see if the loose drag shield would unscrew anymore, it didn't seem to, so I think this weekend I will try a live test.

Can't wait for Saturday for my electrician to install my 240v drop in my garage so I can really give this machine a good run. Quite frankly, this machine is probably way more than I needed, and beyond my skill level, but I'm hoping to catch up. And besides..... It's just sooooooo cool ;-)

Comment

You might just want to make a bushing to take up the space between the drag tip and the cup. If I remember right, that piece is one of the spendier replacement items. It'd be a shame to lose it.

Great idea, I'll try that. You are right - drag cup, drag tips, and drag shield ran me about $80 all together. I'm a little disappointed that Miller sells parts that don't accomplish the single purpose for which they are intended.

Comment

Hypertherm makes all the hand held plasma torch handles for Miller. Looking at Hypertherms equipment, I suspect they make the Spectrum 125C and 375 for Miller as welll. Hypertherm does have some accessories that Miller doesn't have listed. The Hypertherm accessories that are identicle or nearly identicle are running about the same price or a little less than the equivalent Miller parts. The Hypertherm circle cutting guide cuts a bigger diameter circle than Miller and is significantly lower in price by the time you got all of the Miller parts to do the same thing. Miller seems to have some great partnerships for torch and gun handles for their gear.
Whatever you do, don't buy any Thermal Dynamic parts, guns, or gear for your Miller, others here on the forum have had problems mixing components. As long as you stay with Hypertherm/Miller you should be good on your parts and accessories.
As far as patterns go, making them from plywood or hardboard would be the way to go. I even saw one of the guys on CMT Trick My Truck use the flange from the light kit he was installing to cut the hole in the truck bumper. Fit perfectly.
Have fun with your new gear.