The Genealogist's Toolkit: An At-Home Guide to Caring for Family Memorabilia

Lindsey Hobbs

Book Cover, Courtesy of Grosset and Dunlap, 1932

Tucked away in the deep, dark recesses of our homes, most of us have some treasured family documents, photographs, a grandmother’s wedding dress, or other items we hope to maintain and eventually pass on to our loved ones. Usually out of sight and out of mind, these materials, despite their personal value, likely receive more visits from furry critters and insects than from us; thus, we need to take extra care in storing them properly. Since prevention is always preferable to damage control, a few basic steps to create a suitable storage environment can go a long way to minimize damage and make your materials last. First, let’s consider the three major factors in preservation: light, humidity, and temperature. These are the big three that will largely determine the lifespan of your materials. For documents, photographs, and textiles, a cool, dark space with a stable temperature and humidity is ideal. More specifically, aim for about 68°F, a relative humidity of 35-50 percent, and try to limit or eliminate light exposure altogether. In the same way that UV light accelerates our own aging process, it also has cumulative effects on other organic materials. We’ve all seen how quickly a newspaper turns yellow and brittle when exposed to sunlight, for example.

Cool and Dark

Wet Moldy Documents.

When we think cool and dark, the basement or attic probably springs to mind. These seem like logical storage places, since they’re out of the way and not suitable for much else; however, from a preservation perspective, these are usually the last places delicate materials should live. Subject to extreme temperature and humidity fluctuations, dust and dirt, and invasive creatures (who like to leave contributions of their own behind), you might as well use your family history to line a birdcage. A better location would be a closet or cabinet within the main part of the home, where there is less potential for leaks or other disasters and also more stable conditions.

Now that we’ve sorted out the "where," we can move on to the "how." Archival supplies have become increasingly popular in recent years, with the archival label being slapped on a broad range of supplies that may or may not be suitable for long-term preservation. Since there is no defined standard for what constitutes archival quality, manufacturers often use the term loosely, especially to appeal to the at-home preservationist. It’s therefore worthwhile to do a bit of extra research and look for detailed specifications for each product you purchase, which may mean skipping the trip to the local craft store and investing slightly more via a reputable archival supplier. The Northeast Document Conservation Center provides an extensive list of suppliers organized geographically on their website.

Brittle Acid, Paper.

When selecting paper products (including boxes, folders, and other paper enclosures), look for those made with rag fibers free of lignin-containing wood pulp. Lignin, the substance that makes the cell walls of plants and trees rigid, is one of the main culprits that causes paper to become brittle and acidic – generally speaking, the higher the lignin content, the poorer the quality of the paper, and thus the shorter the life span. As paper manufacturing became industrialized in the early-to-mid nineteenth century, it became commonplace to use wood pulp in its production. As a result, one often finds that books or papers dating from the 18th century or earlier are in far better condition than those manufactured more recently.

Additionally, avoid unnecessary paper additives as much as possible: waxes, plasticizers, residual bleach etc., and make sure the paper is alkaline, with a pH of 8 – 9.5. Buffered papers, those containing an additional acid neutralizing component, can be useful for particularly acidic or degraded documents and photos, but otherwise unbuffered, alkaline papers are satisfactory. When buying photo storage materials in particular, look for those stamped with the Photographic Activity, or PAT, Test seal for extra reassurance.

Damage From Rusty Paperclip.

Always use appropriately sized boxes for storage – extra rattling around inside can cause further damage – and separate documents inside boxes with folders and interleaving or dividing papers, never with paper clips, rubber bands, or other fasteners, which can rust or easily snag on other items. Plastic containers marked with the letters PE, PP, PS, or PET as well as Mylar are suitable for storage of items in relatively good condition. Avoid plastic or Mylar enclosures for acidic or degraded materials, as these may further break down in an closed microenvironment. Also, keep in mind that Scotch tape, only perhaps second to lamination, is every conservator’s worst nightmare. It can cause permanent damage to paper and is very difficult or impossible to remove. Try to avoid all pressure-sensitive adhesives as a general rule.

Of course, we often don’t give much thought to preservation until our materials have already reached critical status or disaster strikes. In that case, for example with mold-removal, paper-mending and cleaning, adhesive-removal, etc., it is often necessary to consult a professional conservator. The American Institute for Conservation provides a "find a conservator" service on their website that can put you in contact with someone in your area. The more effective approach is, of course, to take preventive action from the outset. If disaster does strike, your properly maintained and stored family history will at least have a fighting chance of surviving to the next generation.Lindsey Hobbs has a master’s degree in Museum Studies from the University of Gothenburg and has worked in the Preservation Directorate of the Library of Congress since 2008.