Not the best picture, but what I have atm. The inner panel to the center rear window is really badly rusted almost all around the center window. Once it was blasted it definitely came out pretty bad. Does the center section remove from the inner sides that fit the corner windows?

Best example pic of the inner 5 window panel (not mine)....it looks like the center section would separate and I could replace just that?

Is it easier to replace this or weld in patch pieces? Its rusted out right around the crease/bend around the center window.

Not the best picture, but what I have atm. The inner panel to the center rear window is really badly rusted almost all around the center window. Once it was blasted it definitely came out pretty bad. Does the center section remove from the inner sides that fit the corner windows?

Best example pic of the inner 5 window panel (not mine)....it looks like the center section would separate and I could replace just that?

Is it easier to replace this or weld in patch pieces? Its rusted out right around the crease/bend around the center window.

What I see in picture one is very badly rotted. I'm willing to bet that the outer panel is near that bad if you poked it with an awl. You will need to remove the inside center section at the seams media blast the outer panel that mates with it and then evaluate how to proceed.

I see at minimum a outer and inner panel replacement if you don't want that rust popping through is 2 years or less, when you open it up your find more than one nest of cloths and paper no doubt.

It's dark out there... flash and black paint make it hard on the pictures... maybe this is a bit better....

So, look at the top edge of the center window.... its completely rusted out from most of the top section....

The bottom of the center window isn't too bad... but the flat part that is about where the belt of the cab is in pretty poor condition. If that flat belt part can be hidden behind seats or something I'd be ok with it. It looks way to bad to cover up well with filler... but maybe inside a cab it's not going to get as weathered as the outside paint and cramming a bunch of filler is ok-ish? If its going to be visible, I want something thats gonna last.

Here is a pic of the outside cab after being blasted... still some w&g remover that hasn't flashed off yet.. but should give decent condition of the outside on this area. Who knows what it looks like on the inside between the inner and outer skin.. Obviously the inner is toast.

the seams are spot welded on the inside and the three pieces are put in as a unit. From what I see on the outside you have a problem with the back lower panel and the upper window outer panel.

Yea, there are some def little holes along the belt on the outside... the outside I thought I'd be able to weld in a little and grind em smooth without much fuss.

The inside thou, after being blasted just looked so rough... sounds too difficult to sep the seam of the center section if it's spot welded on the back.... I can't even find someone that sells just the sheet metal for the center... all of them include the side windows...

You can't swap out the center because it's welded with a "pinch weld" to the side pieces. Swapping the whole thing is really pretty easy. It's spot welded around the windows and down the B pillar under the windlace holder. There are a few beads on the vertical support that goes down to the floor from below the rear window. It really is pretty damn easy to do.

Here is a photo of the whole thing I took out for mine and I went out in the rain in my pajamas to get you this photo of the back side so you can see how the center section is pinch welded to the side pieces.

Brian

Attached Images

__________________
1948 Chevy pickup
Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats!
Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15.

Here is a pic of the outside cab after being blasted... still some w&g remover that hasn't flashed off yet.. but should give decent condition of the outside on this area. Who knows what it looks like on the inside between the inner and outer skin.. Obviously the inner is toast.

I went back out in the rain to get this shot. I was going to say that if you wanted that piece on the back of the cab I could send it to you. But realistically if you get the inside of one of these cabs you can get that back piece at the same time.

Brian

Attached Images

__________________
1948 Chevy pickup
Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats!
Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15.

But get the patches on the bottom done and the structure repaired before you cut it up any more.

Brian

__________________
1948 Chevy pickup
Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats!
Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15.

You want to do a "dance" with them all. Put the doors on, change the patches on the bottom, that is way more structural shape changing than the inner panel is. You can remove that (it's out of my cab right now) without making a big deal, the patches and structure of the lower cab is a different story, you want that right first.

Brian

__________________
1948 Chevy pickup
Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats!
Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15.

I went back out in the rain to get this shot. I was going to say that if you wanted that piece on the back of the cab I could send it to you. But realistically if you get the inside of one of these cabs you can get that back piece at the same time.

Brian

How do you remove the top section of the cab I'm have a 5 window cab that the bottom is all rusted out . A good 3 window cab I want to swap out the tops
Are there spot welds? not sure what to cut Thanks Mark