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Well here we go, with no further ado, I give you Static Spiders no more.Needed material to accomplish this:
[
1)Superglue2)Steel Wire3)Pin Vice4)Green Stuff5)Xacto Knife6)Modeling tool
So here we go. (First Step):Take your spider and, with the
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I decided to break out a box of Ogre Kingdoms Bulls that have been packed away for over a year. After a few hours, I got bored and decided to do something different....turn one into a big fat savage Samurai.

*NOTE: If you plan to vulcanize a mold for a model using sheet metal understuctures, there are steps that need to be taken so the gs doesn't delaminate during the heating process. Since this is not going to be molded, I won't be adding those steps.
Using sheet metal understructures can be a problem if you don't take measures to make sure the putty won't delaminate from the metal during the heating process of vulcanizing.
Make sure you heavily scuff the metal to give a good surface to stick
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Originally Appeared on The Fire of Nocturne.
http://www.thefireofnocturne.com

This is my first tutorial on sculpting (and a bit on painting) ever. Don't know if its good or not and I can only hope that it will turn out to be helpful for some people reading it.
As it was also my first "serious" attempt with a digital camera some pictures are of a very poor quality.
I'm sorry about that but as a photographing-rookie I made my best to make sure at least the majority of pictures were of enough quality that they would make this tutorial understandable.

If you have questions, critique or new ideas go ahead and post them. Maybe if there is a popular demand about sculpting and/or painting something in particular I might consider doing it and adding to the tutorial. That is if I am capable of doing just that.

These were the tools used. A pocket knife and a scalpel.
The greenstuff itself can be made to have different properties. If you mix in more yellow you'll get a sticky, hard to work stuff that is perfect for really tiny detail. Another downside is that it will also take
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Let me first start by saying that this is my first attempt at using milliput (being more used to green stuff), and also my first attempt at sculpting a whole part for a figure (As opposed to just detail) – so please be gentle!

Here’s a list of the tools I used:

At the top of the main picture is my preferred sculpting tool – shown in detail above. The left picture shows the straight end, whilst the right shows the bent end.

Back in the main picture below the sculpting tool is my craft knife – just a cheap 99p hobby tool, but it has served me well! In the box are a selection of interchangeable blades and pointy bits.

To the far right is the actual putty I am working on – attached to a cocktail for steadiness and to try and limit fingerprints.
Beside that is a piece of Polystyrene I can stick the cocktail stick in so I don’t have to lay it down and risk flattening detail.

At the bottom is the two-part milliput I am using for this sculpt.

As this is my first full sculpt I decided to do Inquisitor scale (54mm) as I thought that might prove easier than trying 40,000 scale 28mm.

VIP (Visions in putty) is a regular showcase project at the 1listsculpting miniature sculpting yahoo group. We pick a sculpting theme and participants get about three months to create a suitable sculpt. After that they can choose to have it cast in metal and they all get displayed at www.miniature-painting.net.

For VIP 9 the theme was science fiction. We happened to be discussing making sculpts of members in the CMON forum and Avicenna mentioned wanting to be a space pirate. That gave me the idea of a Jack Sparrow type of space pirate which was great for VIP. And since Avicenna gave me the idea I said I'd try to give the mini his face.
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Hello fellow modellers... I did this because I know many of you would like to know how to do such work with GS... Well here goes...
Note that this isn't the definitive way on how to sculpt these robes; this is just how I do it...

In order to better understand the tutorial, here's a legend:

# --> caption for picture of the same # picture above

* --> tips

1. The tools I used:
sculpting tool of some sort (actually, I don't know what that is, I just use it to
sculpt) - main tool with which I sculpt... It's the red and white one
x-acto knife or hobby knife - to cut straight edges
petroleum jelly - lubricant... Its the shiny stuff
GS of course - no explanation needed

* remember to keep your fingers and tools wet with petroleum jelly throughout the whole process...

Okay, so I SHOULD be working on my really important articles, but I
found that working on each little by little doesn’t get much done. SO
I’ve decided to make this little article on my own site just to give
some people new to the mini field info on miniature preparation and how
important it is, especially with the Mid Nor Cyclops.. Well, without
further ado, lets get to work!

First, I got the stuff out of the kit, cut everything off the sprues
and went over all the mold lines with a new, sharp hobby knife and some
400 grit Sand Paper. The sandpaper’s finish should say “Mirror Finish”
on it.. this is the stuff you want to use because it’ll give a nice
finish without any scarring AND you can use it to polish pewter for
realistic metal! Well, One of the Major things to do while sanding down
mold lines is to sand down the sword hand so the blade is sharp,
otherwise you’ll have to paint that edge and the blade will look
blocky, and not sharp and menacing. And up and down motion along the
edge on both sides as if you were sharpening a real blade does a great
job.

Sculpey polymer clay was used, in all three varieties: Original sculpey (white) Super sculpey (the flesh toned color), and Sculpey III (the orange and yellow color). As I mentioned in my White Tree of Gondor article, each version of sculpey has certain properties of hardness and sculptability once baked. These are the tools which I normally use for my dioramas:

GS (Greenstuff) is generally supplied in two-tone strips (as pictured). More recently, it can be found in tubes, where the two coloured sections are supplied in separate sticks rather than joined at the middle. This means none of the greenstuff will have cured before mixing, making it better for sculptors.
One mixes the two colors (blue and yellow) and the result is a green paste (hence the name greenstuff) which cures/hardens in a few hours (though it is malleable for sculpting during the the first couple of hours).

Some basic advice:

- Always wear gloves when handling the GS, as it can be irritating to the skin (Vinyl gloves are better, as they stick less to the GS than latex gloves).
- It is recommended to remove the centre of the GS before mixing (ie: the part where the two colours meet in the strip) as the GS at this point may already have begun to cure. To further ensure the GS stays fresh, it is a good idea to keep the GS in the fridge.
- After having obtained a beautiful green color (by mixing for at least a minute),
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This article is a list of tips I have learned through reading or experience to help improve my sculpting skills and technique. I am no master sculptor and only have a bit more then a year of experience with epoxy putties but I hope that what I learned will help some of you.

In this article I will refer to epoxy putty in general. Whenever a specific tip applies to
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