Come on, somebody must have the definitive version of how a surfer assesses wave height. I was out a few weeks ago and the waves were big (I sail oceans and race dinghies, I have seen big waves!). Talking to a hotshot afterwards he reckoned them to be 3ft! He said it was a measure from the lip to the "bottom". Another guy said it was a measure looking at the back of the wave (you can't see that unless you let the wave go and then what's the point).
I measure waves from crest to trough (the flat bit in front of the wave before it starts rising), this seems right.
When paddling out through biggish waves I try to visualise how many times my height would fit onto the unbroken face thus I know if a wave is 6ft more or less. I have even tried standing on a longboard in front of a wave to see if I could see over it!

[All this back of the wave crap and deliberately underestimating the size of the wave is just macho posturing

I read somewhere that it was started by hawaiin lifeguards - when it all kicked off over there the locals where pissed off when the radio forecasters announced there was surf to be had - everyone piled down and the shore was packed and people got hurt
from what i remember sizing was changed to prevent muppets like me being in waves they had no right being in , though can't remember whcih way they ended up deciding on.

and any ways as all the girlies say it s not size but girth that counts!

i should move closer to the coastedit. i did move closer to the coast, but further from the surf.....

the confusion imho comes from two different factors - 1- the open ocean swell and 2- the face size at the beach of your choice - depending on the beach itself you will get a different size wave for the same size swells its simple - the forcasts are the swell size then you have to convert that from your own knowledge of different beaches to the face size the swell period makes a lot of difference too - a high period swell will give a bigger face size (depending on individual beach) - so al long as you can translate the given figures to the beaches you surf then thats all that matters

Rikds1 wrote:Come on, somebody must have the definitive version of how a surfer assesses wave height. I was out a few weeks ago and the waves were big (I sail oceans and race dinghies, I have seen big waves!). Talking to a hotshot afterwards he reckoned them to be 3ft! He said it was a measure from the lip to the "bottom". Another guy said it was a measure looking at the back of the wave (you can't see that unless you let the wave go and then what's the point).I measure waves from crest to trough (the flat bit in front of the wave before it starts rising), this seems right.When paddling out through biggish waves I try to visualise how many times my height would fit onto the unbroken face thus I know if a wave is 6ft more or less. I have even tried standing on a longboard in front of a wave to see if I could see over it!

I find myself sat staring at the walls & the ceiling (where ever I am) trying to work out how big the waves are/were. I try to compare how high the waves looked when I was duckdiving (coz then your eyes are right at the bottom of the wave) - & compare that to the wall in front of me.....
Never works though................
Mind you, I could never be bothered enough to ACTUALLY lie on the carpet to make the comaprison valid......

A wave face that is headhigh on a surfer is near enough 6ft
A wave face shoulder high is about 5ft
Chest high = 4ft
wasit high = 3ft
knee high = 1-2ft

The hawaiian measurement is as someone said designed to scare the living shite out of the tourists. It seems KOOKs have caught on and think its cool.

Anyone wanting to dispute this then have a word with the Billabong XXL Judges judging the biggest wave. They are measuring the wave face height not the back not the open ocena height but the ridden face. Thats all I am concerned about I dont give a crap how far I have to ride down the back of the wave when I kick out.

OH and for the record if you are going to use FT measurements you look absolute arsehole if you use 7ft, 9ft, 11ft,14ft etc those are not recognised sizes in the surfing world and show total KOOKNESS if used when talking shop.

when your going down the line on the wave look to where the lip is in respect to yourself. if its the same height as your head (while standing, as opposed to crouching obviously :roll;), the wave is head high, thats wot i use

People say that this "hawaiian"system is old school, and should be used for that reason. Sometimes old school is just wrong, it's bullshit.

A foot is a set measure. it's 12 inches, it's approx 30cm, end of!

But like a few have said, there really is no good way to measure a wave. It doesn't matter as long as communication is served, so these days I tend to use whichever method I think the person I'm talking to would use. For myself, on the other hand, it's