ost machines that make electricity need
some form of mechanical energy to get
things started. Mechanical energy spins the
generator to make the electricity. In the case of
hydroelectricity, the mechanical energy comes from
large volumes of falling water. For more than 100
years, the simplest way to produce the volumes of
falling water needed to make electricity has been to
build a dam. A dam stops the natural flow of a river,
building up a deep reservoir behind it. However,
large dams and reservoirs are not always appropriate,
especially in the more ecologically sensitive areas of
the planet.
For making small
amounts of
electricity without
building a dam, the
small-scale
hydroelectric
generator is often
the best solution,
especially where
fast-flowing
Canada and many other countries
depend on large-scale hydro
streams on steep
developments for electricity.
slopes are close
by. A small-scale
hydro system
usually consists of an enclosed water wheel or
turbine, which is made to spin by jets of highvelocity water. The water is taken from the stream
and moved down slope to the turbine through a
long pipe called a penstock. Water flowing through
the penstock picks up speed, and is directed at the
blades of the turbine by nozzles. The turbine spins
continuously, as long as there is water to drive it.
The turbine is connected to an electrical generator,
and the electricity is then available for running
appliances or charging batteries. The spent water is
returned to the stream. This kind of system is called

a “micro-hydro” system, “run-of-stream hydro” or
“low-impact hydro.”
In this activity, you will use plastic spoons to build a
model of a simple micro-hydro system. It generates
surprising amounts of electricity, provided you have
a supply of pressurized water, such as from a lab
sink. This model closely resembles real micro-hydro
designs, and can produce enough electricity to light
a small light bulb.

The completed micro-hydro turbine.

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Making electricity
We are surrounded by hundreds of appliances that
use electricity to do work. But what is electricity?
Basically, electricity is a flow of electrons in a metal
wire, or some other conductor. Electrons are tiny
particles found inside atoms, one of the basic building blocks of all matter. We call the flow of electrons
through any conductor a “current of electricity.”
Each electron carries a tiny negative charge. When
electrons move through a conductor, they produce
an invisible field of magnetic force, similar to that
found around a magnet. The strength of that field
depends on how many electrons are in motion. You
can concentrate this field by winding the wire in
which the electrons move into a tight coil with many
turns. This causes many more electrons to be in
motion in a small space, resulting in a stronger field.
If you then place a piece of iron in the middle of the
coil, the electromagnetic field will turn the iron into
a powerful magnet.
While it is true that electrons moving through a conductor produce a magnetic field, the reverse is also
true. You can make electrons move in a wire by
“pushing” them with a moving magnet, which is
how an electrical generator works. Electrical generators usually contain powerful magnets that rotate
very close to dense coils of insulated wire. The coils
develop a flow of electrons that becomes an electrical
current when the generator is connected to an electric
circuit.
You will be building an electrical generator as part of
this project. It uses moving magnets to create a current of electricity in coils of wire. This generator is
technically called an alternator because the electrons
move back and forth in the wire, rather than flowing
in just one direction as they do from a battery. A
meter connected to the wire would show that the
charge of the wire switches or alternates between
positive and negative as the electrons change directions. Such an electrical current is called alternating

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current or AC. Household electrical current is alternating current. Appliances have to be specially
designed to use it. The other type of current is called
direct current, because the electrons move in one
direction only. Most battery-powered appliances such
as calculators and portable CD players use direct
current.

Build It!

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Safety Precautions
Electric drills can cause serious eye and hand injuries. Eye protection is required, and leather gloves
are recommended when drilling small parts such
as corks. A cork borer can be used as a substitute
but it also has risks for injury.
Hot glue guns can cause superficial burns. Be sure
glue guns are warmed up only when needed, and
unplugged immediately after. Hot glue can stick to
skin and clothing.
Utility knives can be hazardous. Expose only as
much blade as you need to cut the material, and
fully retract the blade when not it’s not in use.

A. Prepare the Disks
The generator we are building has two basic parts-the
rotor and the stator. The stator is the part that remains
stationary and has coils of wire to collect electricity.
The rotor is the part that moves. It is equipped with
powerful magnets that will induce current of electricity in the coils.
1. Glue the template sheet to the cardboard with
white glue. Be sure to spread a thin layer of
glue evenly over the entire back of the template.

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Page 3 of 9

Materials
• Paper Templates: Please download the following
templates separately and print according to the
printing instructions.

2. When the glue has dried, use the utility knife
to cut the rotor and stator disks from the cardboard
sheet. Carefully trim the edges. Also, be careful not
to damage the tabletop with the utility knife. Work on
a piece of scrap wood or a cutting board.
3. Using an awl or sharp nail, punch a small hole
through the rotor disk at its exact center, as shown.
Using the utility knife, make a larger (1 cm) hole at
the center of the stator disk.

Cover the back of the template with a thin, even layer
of glue.

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B. The Stator
1. Prepare a jig for winding your coils by cutting a 3
cm by 16cm piece of cardboard, folding it in half and
securing with a small piece of electrical tape.
2. Cut 8 short (4 cm) strips of electrical tape and
set these aside.
3. Leaving a lead of about 10 cm, start winding the
first coil on the jig. Wrap the wire neatly onto the jig,
forming a tight coil. Use 200 wraps or turns.

Page 4 of 9

4. Carefully slip the coil off the jig and secure it
using two pieces of the electrical tape you set aside
in step 2 above.
5. Using a small patch of emery cloth or sand paper,
remove the enamel insulation from the ends of each
lead, exposing about 1 cm of bare wire. Be sure the
wire is completely bare!
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 to make three more
coils.
7. Lay the coils loosely on the disk in the position
shown by the template. Arrange the coils so their
windings alternate between clockwise and counterclockwise, as shown on the template. THIS IS VERY
IMPORTANT! Arrange and connect the coils so that
an electron would follow the path shown by the
arrows, starting with the counterclockwise coil on the
left hand side.
8. When you are sure you have them arranged correctly, connect the coils by twisting the bared ends
together, covering the connections with small pieces
of electrical tape.

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9. Check your connections: Set your multi-meter
for measuring electrical resistance (ohms). If your
connections are good, there should be little resistance

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to the movement of electrons, and the meter should
produce a reading of about 10 ohms or less. To check
this, touch or connect the probes to the two free
ends of the wires from the coils. If the coils are not
properly connected, the reading will be a very large
number, or infinity.

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11. With the utility knife, cut 4 slits through the
cardboard between the magnets as shown on the
template. These slits will be used to fasten the stator
to the plastic container later.
C. The Rotor
1. Obtain 4 magnets.
Using the magnetic
compass, determine
the polarity of each
face, and mark the
south pole of two
magnets and the north
pole of the remaining
two using a felt pen.
Checking the polarity of one

Check to make sure you have good connections between
the coils.
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10. Once you are confident the coils are properly
positioned and connected, glue them to the stator
disk. Lift each coil up a little and apply a large blob
of glue to the template where the coil touches. Let the
glue solidify before gluing the next coil.

2. Warm up your hot face of a magnet using a comThe Pembina Institute
glue gun, and prepare pass.
to attach the magnets to
the rotor disk. The magnets must be arranged so that
their polarity alternates (i.e. N-S-N-S). Their position
and polarity are indicated on the template.
3. Squeeze a small (1cm) blob of hot glue on the
spot where the first magnet will go. Quickly press
a magnet with its washer onto the blob, as shown
below. Allow the glue to solidify before moving onto
the next magnet.

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2. Center the wide end of the cork on the marking
guide on the template page, and mark the cork with
a pen or pencil.
3. Place the cork wide-end down on a cutting board.
Use the utility knife to cut shallow slits into the cork
where the spoons will be inserted. USE CAUTION!
4. Obtain 8 plastic spoons. Using the wire cutters,
cut the spoon handles leaving a 1 cm stem on the
bowl of the spoon.

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4. Repeat this for the remaining 3 magnets, making
sure to alternate north and south poles as you go.

5. Be sure the glue gun is warmed up and that you
have a glue stick or two handy.
6. Insert the first spoon into the cork, using the
turbine template as a guide. Push the stem of the
spoon into the cork to a depth of about 1 cm.

D. The Shaft
1. Cut the dowel down to 20cm in length.
2. Using a pencil sharpener put a point on each end
of the wooden dowel (it is not necessary to make a
sharp point-blunt will do).
E. The Turbine
1. Drill a Âźâ&#x20AC;? (6mm) hole through the CENTER of
the large cork, or use a cork borer to make the hole.

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7. Repeat step 6 with the remaining 7 spoons. Adjust
the angle and depth of the spoons so they are evenly
spaced and all project from the cork at the same
angle.
8. When you are satisfied with your turbine, add
some hot glue to each spoon to secure it on the cork.
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F. The Housing

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F. The Housing
1. Obtain the plastic container and tear off any labels
that might be attached to the sides. Using scissors or
a utility knife, cut part of the bottom off, as shown
in the photo below.

the container so that its center hole is over the hole in
the container. Push the nail (or awl) through each slit
on the stator disk to mark the locations of these slits
on the side of the plastic container.
5. Using the utility knife, make 4 small slits on the
side of the container, corresponding with those on the
stator disk.
6. Using the brass fold-over tabs, securely mount the
stator disk to the side of the plastic container. Bend
the tabs flat on the inside of the container, as shown.

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2. Using a ruler, find the center of the side as accurately as you can. Mark this point with the permanent
marker. Repeat for the other side.
3. At the mark on each side of the container, drill a
Âźâ&#x20AC;? (6mm) hole through the plastic.
4. Lay the stator with its attached coils on the side of

An expanded view of the micro-hydro turbine.

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G. Final Assembly
1. With scissors, cut the vinyl tubing into two small
lengths, each 1 cm long.
2. Slide the shaft into the plastic container through
the hole in the stator. Inside the container, slide one
piece of tubing onto the shaft.
3. Position the turbine inside the container so the
spoons face the neck of the bottle.

The magnets should be close to, but not touching the coils
as they turn.
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8. Slide the rotor disk onto the shaft. Position it so
that the magnets come to within 2 or 3 millimetres
of the coils. Spin the shaft to be sure the magnets do
not strike the coils.
9. Check the rotor disk to see that it spins true.
Turn the shaft slowly and note any wobble. Adjust
the angle of the disk on the shaft as necessary.
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4. Push the shaft through the turbineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cork. Work
the cork and the tubing down the shaft so the shaft
comes out the other side of the container and projects
by about 4 cm.

10. When the rotor disk spins without wobbling, fix
it in position with hot glue applied to the point where
the shaft passes through the reinforcing disks.

5. Adjust the position of the turbine so the spoons
line up with the neck of the container.
6. Adjust the position of the tubing so that it comes
close to but does not touch the inside of the container.
7. Slide the second section of tubing over the end
of the shaft as shown. The two pieces of tubing will
help to keep all parts of the turbine positioned correctly when it spins. Spin the shaft to be sure it turns
without binding, and that the turbine does not strike
the inside of the container as it spins.

Reinforce the rotor disk with hot glue.

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Questions
1. What variables in a micro-hydro system
could you change to get more electricity from
it?
2. In what locations in Canada or other parts
of the world would micro hydro be a good
choice for clean energy?
3. What practical problems would you
encounter in setting up and running a microhydro system in a rural area ?
4. Why are micro-hydro systems seen as
better for the environment compared with
large-scale dams?

Test It!
If all has gone well with your construction, this
turbine should be able to produce significant amounts
of electricity, depending on the speed of the water
striking the spoons.
1. Place the neck of the plastic container under a
faucet and turn on the water. The rotor should spin
quickly!

5. Use the Internet to locate distributors
and manufacturers of micro-hydroelectric
components. Use the search terms “microhydro”, “pelton wheel”, and “run of stream.”

Notes:

2. Connect your micro-hydro turbine to a multimeter and set the dial to read volts of alternating
current. Measure the voltage generated by the
operating turbine.