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I'm restoring this 1960 Raleigh. Its a three speed with a Sturmey Archer hub. It doesn't shift gears well at all. I replaced the trigger-shifter and still the gears aren't quite right. I plan to sell this bike once its ready so should:
a) turn it into a fixed gear and focus more on the cosmetics

How is it not shifting "quite right"?Slipping gears,missing gears....?
I think you'd be better off getting it going as a 3speed.You'll be able to get more $ for it.The fixie crowd like their bikes 531 or better so a steel Raleigh might not be what their looking for.But there IS a resurging interest for the old Raleigh 3speeds.
As you can tell by my title,I like Raleighs.Maybe I'm a little biased but when you have one of that vintage and it has most of the original parts it would be a shame to start modifying it now.It's almost 50 years old.You may just have to clean and relube the hub to get it working properly.

How far into it are you gonna go restoring it?Being a second tier Raleigh make will bring the value down a bit but not much.People really relate to the Raleighs.
Are you sure on the year?The reason I ask is the shifter cable looks newer.Early 60s Sturmey Archer cables used the pulley.Also American Machine and Foundry was renamed AMF in 1971.
Well anyway,that's besides the point.It's still in pretty good original condition.The less you redo the more it'll be worth.Unless you go for a total 100% restoration.Then it obviously would be worth more.
It's a nice bike and think you should get it running and keep it for yourself.Find out just how comfortable riding can be.
What does the headbadge look like?Or has the basket chewed it up?

Lube the hub first with some oil, then adjust the cable. The link should have info on both, about half way down the page.

Bought this 1960's AMF Hercules for $5 at a garage sale over 10 years ago. A couple of drops of oil in the hub and it was, and still is, good to go. These bikes are virtually indestructible unless in a collision, and it shouldn't take much to make it road worthy.

There should be a date on the hub. If it were me, I would clean the bike up and sell it as is, if you are flipping it. The cable clamped to the stay like that was used as early as 1964? on the Raleigh RSW/Compact RSW series. Typically it was combined with the grip shifter.

Aaron

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The gears themselves stick on first and third and just slip past second so maybe a good grease job would do the trick.

There is a neutral position just past second. It is there to disengage the cluster in the 4-5 speed versions.

If the correct indicator chain is in there the adjustment is correct when the end of the rod is even with the end of the axle with the shift trigger in second gear. That is what the holes in the nut are for, so you can see the end of the axle for this adjustment.

The hub uses SAE 20 oil, it takes about 5ml if it is dry, otherwise a squirt or so a week is about right. There is no problem with too much oil other than it leaks out all over everything.

Only after oiling and properly adjusting the shift cable should you worry about it needing repairs. About the only way an AW hub wears out is from running without oil. Something broken inside is usually obvious.

There should be a date on the hub. If it were me, I would clean the bike up and sell it as is, if you are flipping it. The cable clamped to the stay like that was used as early as 1964? on the Raleigh RSW/Compact RSW series. Typically it was combined with the grip shifter.

Aaron

Every one says this, but it may be true, or may not depending on the particular hub. I currently have two AW hubs; one has only a 3 stamped on it, and the other has no date markings at all. The unmarked one came on a Raleigh laced into a very rusty Westrich Rim so is most likely original; going by frame details it is most likely about 1960 vintage. The other one, marked with a 3, was on a Dunelt of apparently 1973 vintage as it has a 1974 registration sticker on it.

Every one says this, but it may be true, or may not depending on the particular hub. I currently have two AW hubs; one has only a 3 stamped on it, and the other has no date markings at all. The unmarked one came on a Raleigh laced into a very rusty Westrich Rim so is most likely original; going by frame details it is most likely about 1960 vintage. The other one, marked with a 3, was on a Dunelt of apparently 1973 vintage as it has a 1974 registration sticker on it.

They did have hubs that were not dated, but that is the exception rather than the rule. FWIW I have an undated hub on a Raleigh Sports Standard that was built in Malaysia. It has the Endrick rims also, there maybe a connection there or there may not. I have seen at least one other Malaysian built Raleigh that had an unmarked hub.

Aaron

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Thanks y'all, this has been really helpful. The Brooks Saddle is shot and I was thinking if replacing it, the plastic handlebars, and giving the paint a touch up. I would like to give it another Brooks saddle, but I don"t even ride a Brooks and the bike far to small for me to ride thus the selling of the bike. How should I be asking for with the adjustments I've made?