Covering this year’s round of the freshly expanded Moncler Genius project—from which the new collections will drop every month for the next 12—proved to be invigoratingly challenging. There were 11 different collections presented side by side in various formats in a series of railway arches under the lines north of Milan’s central station. Most of the city had been invited to roll up at 8:00 p.m., but we nipped in 40 minutes early while the coast was relatively clear and tried to get the job done. That entailed sometimes interviewing designers without seeing the looks as they were still backstage, or sometimes seeing looks without interviewing designers. It was, as they say here, a casino—but a fun one. Looking at the pictures that will go above this review, you’ll probably have a better view of some of the collections than this reviewer. However, below is what was gleaned from the launch, in order of the collections’ numeric categorization.

0 Moncler Richard QuinnThe sad truth is I never got to see this collection. But I did see its setting, a tunnel whose roof was clad in wild print with a runway flanked by black blooms. Happily, I also saw Quinn, lolling with two members of his team outside, and frantically pumped him for info. His response was: “It’s about taking the shapes we usually do but putting them in a down-jacket context. Also using the fastenings that we used in the collection we showed in London yesterday. We have nice high puffer boots and puffer bags that are synonymous with Moncler. It’s really a mash-up of the two worlds.”