WEBVTT
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>>> HOT SPRINGS, TWO WORDS WITH
CENTURIES OF MEANING.
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THESE ARE THE SPRINGS, AND YES,
THEY ARE HOT.
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143 DEGREES HOT, AND 4,000 YEARS
IN THE MAKING.
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BUT WE'LL GET INTO THAT LATER.
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THIS REGION WAS ACTUALLY THE
FIRST FEDERALLY PROTECTED AREA
IN 1832.
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40 YEARS PRIOR TO YELLOWSTONE.
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SO LET'S BEGIN OUR EXPLORATION
IN THE VALLEY OF VAPORS AND THE
AMERICAN SPA.
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HOT SPRINGS NATIONAL PARK.
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BEFORE HOT SPRINGS, THE CITY
THAT IS OF HOT SPRINGS EXISTED,
THIS ENTIRE AREA WAS VASTLY
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DIFFERENT.
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IF YOU CAN JUST IMAGINE 47 OR SO
OPEN HOT SPRINGS AND ALL THE
STEAM EMITTING FROM THEM, IT'S
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NO WONDER WHY THIS UNIQUE VALLEY
WAS CALLED THE VALLEY OF VAPORS.
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IF THERE EVER WAS A FOUNTAIN OF
YOUTH, THIS HAD TO BE IT.
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IT'S ALSO NO WONDER WHY THE
FEDERAL GOVERNMENT IN 1832 TOOK
AN UNPRECEDENTED STEP SETTING
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ASIDE THIS AREA AS THE FIRST
U.S. RESERVATION CREATED SOLELY
TO PROTECT A NATURAL RESOURCE.
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THE OLDEST ARCHAEOLOGIST
EVIDENCE CONSIDERED RELIABLE BY
RESEARCHERS AS FAR AS AMERICAN
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INDIANS USING THE HOT SPRINGS
DATES BACK TO 1771.
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BUT NATIVE AMERICANS DID OCCUPY
THE LAND INCLUDED WITHIN THE
PARK BOUNDARIES ALL THE WAY BACK
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TO 3,000 YEARS AGO.
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THEY QUARRIED NOVACULITE AS RAW
MATERIAL FOR STONE TOOLS.
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WATER IS STILL THE MAIN
ATTRACTION OF WHY VISITORS COME
TO HOT SPRINGS NATIONAL PARK.
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AND BE AS IT MAY, THERE IS STILL
THE BELIEF THAT THE TRACES OF
MINERALS AT AN AVERAGE
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TEMPERATURE OF 143 DEGREES GIVES
THESE WATERS WHATEVER
THERAPEUTIC PROPERTIES THEY MAY
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HAVE.
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BUT THE HOT SPRINGS DID NOT
BECOME HOT OVERNIGHT.
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JOSIE, IT'S HARD TO IMAGINE FOR
US THAT THAT THIS WATER IS WHAT,
4,000 YEARS OLD.
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>> THAT'S ABOUT RIGHT.
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BASICALLY, WHAT THE SCIENTISTS
TELL US IS THAT IT TAKES ABOUT
4,000 YEARS GIVE OR TAKE A
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COUPLE CENTURIES FOR THE WATER
TO COME DOWN AND PERCOLATE IN
THE EARTH, GO TO DEPTHS OF ABOUT
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TEN MILES AND THEN SLOWLY BUT
SURELY COME UP TO THE CRACKS IN
THE EARTH.
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AS IT COMES UP, IT HEATS UP.
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SO BY THE TIME IT GETS TO THE
SURFACE IN THE GENERAL AREA, WE
GET THE WATER THAT SON AVERAGE
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143 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT AND GOOD
FOR BATHING AN FOR DRINKING.
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>> BATH HOUSE ROW DID NOT
ALWAYS LOOK LIKE IT DOES TODAY.
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IN FACT, THERE HAVE BEEN ABOUT
FOUR GENERATIONS OF BATH HOUSES.
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THE FIRST WERE CRUDE WOODEN
SHACK-LIKE STRUCTURES WHICH
FREQUENTLY BURNED OR ROTTED DUE
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TO THE CONTINUED EXPOSURE TO
WATER AND STEAM.
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BY 1921, WHEN THE HOT SPRINGS
RESERVATION FINALLY BECAME THE
18th NATIONAL PARK, MONUMENTAL
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BATH HOUSES WERE BUILT TO CATER
TO THE CROWDS OF HEALTH SEEKERS
WHO FLOCKED TO THE AMERICAN SPA
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AT MORE THAN A MILLION A YEAR.
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THE NEW ESTABLISHMENTS SPARED NO
EXPENSE TO MAKE SURE BATHERS
WOULD BE PAMPERED AMIDST ARTFUL
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SURROUNDINGS.
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IT WAS THE GOLDEN AGE OF
BATHING.
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AS MODERN MEDICINE BEGAN CURING
WHAT THE HOT SPRINGS COULD NOT,
THE BATHING BUSINESS STARTED
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DECLINING DURING THE 1950's.
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THE BATH HOUSES EVENTUALLY
CLOSED THEIR DOORS AND FELL INTO
DISREPAIR.
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DURING THE 1980's, LOCAL
CITIZENS AND THE NATIONAL PARK
SERVICE BEGAN SEARCHING FOR WAYS
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TO BRING BACK THE BATH HOUSES TO
THEIR ORIGINAL SPLENDOR AND
PURPOSE.
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FINALLY IN 2004, THE PARK
RECEIVED THE FIRST OF SEVERAL
APPROPRIATIONS TO REHABILITATE
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THE VACANT BATH HOUSES AND MAKE
THEM LEASABLE.
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TODAY, THEY ARE AVAILABLE FOR
LEASE UNDER THE HISTORIC
PROPERTY LEASING PROGRAM.
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SUPERINTENDENT JOSIE FERNANDEZ
REFERS TO IT AS THE RENAISSANCE
OF BATH HOUSE ROW.
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>> I LIKE TO CALL IT THAT WAY
BECAUSE FOR MANY, MANY YEARS
AFTER WORLD WAR II, THE BATHING
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INDUSTRY STARTED TO GO INTO
DECLINE, IF YOU WILL.
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PEOPLE COULD STAY HOME, POP A
PILL FOR MEDICINE OR GET AN
X-RAY OR SUCH AND PEOPLE STOPPED
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COMING IN THE NUMBERS, BUT THEY
USED TO COME TO HOT SPRINGS.
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HOWEVER, NOW PEOPLE KNOW THAT
CLEANLINESS AND GOOD EATING
HABITS AND EXERCISING IS GOOD
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FOR YOU.
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AND WE'RE VERY FORTUNATE THAT
THESE BEAUTIFUL BUILDINGS ARE
BEGINNING TO BE RESTORED AND
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REOCCUPIED BY BUSINESSES THAT
BELIEVE IN THAT PHILOSOPHY.
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SO, FOR EXAMPLE, LAST SUMMER,
THE BATH HOUSE OPENED AND NOW
IT'S OFFERING MODERN-DAY
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ACTIVITIES IN A HISTORIC
SETTING, BUT WITH A MODERN
FLAVOR AND PEOPLE CAN ONCE AGAIN
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TAKE A BATH AND ENJOY
THEMSELVES.
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OF COURSE, WE HAVE THE BUCKSTAFF
BATH HOUSE THAT OFFERS THE
TRADITIONAL BATHING EXPERIENCE
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THAT PEOPLE USED TO ENJOY.
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>> AFTER YOU REVITALIZE YOURSELF
WITH A BATH OR MAYBE A MASSAGE,
YOU MAY WANT TO TRY OUT A
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PORTION OF THE 26 MILES OF
HIKING TRAILS THAT ARE WITHIN
THE PARK.
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>> THERE ARE A LOT OF DIFFERENT
DEGREES OF DIFFICULTY.
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AND SOME OF THE TRAILS
THEMSELVES WERE DESIGNED BY A
MEDICAL DOCTOR FROM GERMANY.
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I BELIEVE IT WAS GERMANY.
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DR. ORTELL WHO DESIGNED THE
TRAILS TO BE EASILY ACCESSIBLE
FOR THE INFIRM THAT USED TO COME
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TO HOT SPRINGS TO TAKE THE BATH.
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A LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T REALIZE
THAT AT THE BEGINNING OF THE HOT
SPRINGS RESERVATION AND HOT
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SPRINGS NATIONAL PARK, THAT WAS
WHAT WAS PRESCRIBED BY MEDICAL
DOCTORS.
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IF YOU CAME WITH A LIVER AILMENT
OR SOME SUCH THING, YOU WOULD
LIKELY BE PRESCRIBED A NUMBER OF
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BATHS AND A NUMBER OR COLOR
TRAIL.
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THAT'S WHAT PEOPLE USED TO
BELIEVE, THAT TAKING THE BATH
AND DOING EXERCISE HERE COULD
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POTENTIALLY CURE YOU OF WHATEVER
AILED YOU.
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SO -- BUT THE TRAILS ARE STILL
AVAILABLE.
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WE ENCOURAGE PEOPLE TO ENJOY
THEM.
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THEY'RE THERE FOR THEM, AND
WALKING IS GOOD EXERCISE FOR
EVERYONE.
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>> SUCH AS ON THE LONG PROMENADE
HERE.
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>> SUCH AS ALONG THE LONG
PROMENADE AND BATH HOUSE ROW.
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IN FACT, GENERALLY, DURING LUNCH
TIME YOU SEE A LOT OF THE LOCALS
WALKING ONE SIDE AND MAKING THE
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LOOP AND GOING THE OTHER WAY AND
THEN GOING BACK TO WORK.
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>> THE TRAIL THAT WE TOOK THIS
PARTICULAR DAY IS ONE OF MY
FAVORITES.
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THE GOAT ROCK TRAIL WHICH STARTS
OFF FROM THE OVERLOOK ON NORTH
MOUNTAIN.
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BACK TRACK DOWN THE ROAD A BIT,
TO WHERE THE TRAIL HEAD SIGN IS
LOCATED.
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FROM THERE, IT'S AN EASY HIKE
WHICH WILL TAKE YOU DOWN THE
OVERLOOK.
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THE TRAIL WILL OPEN UP INTO
FLOWERY GLADES OFFERING SOME
PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES.
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FOLLOWING A COUPLE OF SWITCH
BACKS, THE TRAIL DOES BECOME A
LITTLE UNEVEN AND ROCKY.
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AFTER ABOUT SEVERAL HUNDRED
FEET, YOU'LL PASS BENEATH HUGE
NOVACULITE BOLDERS.
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HERE, BOAT ROCK ITSELF IS 40
FEET ABOVE YOU.
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A ROCK STAIRWAY WILL TAKE YOU TO
THE OVERLOOK ATOP GOAT ROCK.
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THE SIGHTS HERE OFFER
SPECTACULAR VIEWS OF INDIAN
MOUNTAIN AND YOU PROBABLY WILL
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WANT TO SPEND SOME TIME TO TAKE
IT ALL IN.
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BEFORE LEAVING THE PARK, BE SURE
TO STOP BY THE RANGER STATION
AND CHECK OUT HELEN STANDARD'S
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PAINTING OF GOAT ROCK OVERLOOK.
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THE BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER,
AMERICA'S FIRST NATIONAL RIVER
AND ARKANSAS, THE NATURAL STATE,
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CAN RIGHTFULLY LAY CLAIM TO IT.
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ITS BEAUTY IS UNSURPASSED.
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YOU SEE, THIS RIVER REMAINS THE
SAME AS EARLY EXPLORERS FIRST
SAW IT SEVERAL HUNDRED YEARS
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AGO.
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COME ALONG WITH US AND WE'LL
SHOW YOU WHY THE BUFFALO IS
FIRST AND FOREMOST AMERICA'S
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RIVER.
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THE BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER IS
135 MILES OF PRISTINE, PROTECTED
PARADISE.
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DEI I -- DESIGNATED BY CONGRESS
AS AMERICA'S FIRST NATIONAL
RIVER, IT IS ONE OF THE FEW
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REMAINING, PURE FREE-FLOWING
STREAMS WHICH HAS NOT BEEN
SIGNIFICANTLY ALTERED BY
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INDUSTRY OR MAN IN THE LOWER 48
STATES.
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MANY PEOPLE PLAYED A ROLE IN
SAVING THIS RIVER.
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IN THE BEGINNING THE LATE
DR. NEIL COMPTON PRACTICALLY
LED A ONE-MAN CRUSADE TO KEEP
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IT FROM BEING DAMMED UP.
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AND FINALLY, JOHN PAUL
HAMMERSCHMIDT INTRODUCED
LEGISLATION AND THE FREE-FLOWING
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STREAM.
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>> I HAD TO TRY AFTER I DECIDED
THAT I WANTED TO LEAVE THE
BUFFALO STREAM, THEN I HAD TO
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DEVELOP A POLITICAL BASE FOR
THAT.
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IT WAS STRONGER THAN THE
OPPONENTS FOR THAT IDEA.
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I THINK IT'S BEEN GREAT THING
AND EVEN TODAY, PEOPLE THAT WERE
STRONGLY OPPOSED TO IT, THEY
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HAVE BEEN RELOCATED,
RE-ESTABLISHED THEIR LIVES.
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I THINK THEY TOO THINK IT WAS
PROBABLY A GOOD THING.
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WE'RE BLESSED TO HAVE SOMETHING
LIKE THIS.
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IT'S A BIG PART OF MY LIFE,
SINCE I WAS A LITTLE KID.
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I FISHED ON IT AND LEARNED HOW
TO CANOE ON IT AND LEARNED ALL
THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF, YOU
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KNOW, HIKING AND NATURE, THE
WILDLIFE AND I WAS PRETTY
FORTUNATE I WAS A BOY SCOUT
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GROWING UP.
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SO I SPENT A LOT OF TIME AROUND
THE UPPER PART OF THE RIVER.
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WE'RE IN THE MIDDLE SECTION
HERE.
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I HAVE JUST BEEN FORTUNATE TO BE
HERE AS LONG AS I HAVE.
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REALLY YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT IT'S
LIKE TO LIVE WITHOUT IT, SO IT'S
HARD FOR ME TO GET A REALLY --
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TELL YOU MUCH OF AN OPINION
BECAUSE I HAVE NEVER HAD TO LIVE
WITHOUT THIS.
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I HAVE BEEN BLESSED, I WOULD SAY
THAT.
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>> TO REALLY EXPERIENCE THIS
RIVER, YOU'VE GOT TO FLOAT IT.
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EITHER BY JOHNBOAT, CANOE,
KAYAK, RAFT OR WHATEVER.
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JUST FLOAT IT.
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00:14:08.915 --> 00:14:13.585
BECAUSE ONLY THEN WILL YOU TRULY
BECOME A PART OF IT.
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THIS PARTICULAR DAY UP ON THE
RECOMMENDATION OF OUR OUTFITTER,
WE OPTED TO GET AROUND IN A
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00:14:28.335 --> 00:14:34.606
JOHNBOAT TO COVER MORE SCENIC
MILES IN A SHORTER PERIOD OF
TIME.
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>> THIS IS THE WAY TO DO IT, IF
YOU WANT TO SIGHT SEE AND CHECK
EVERYTHING OUT, JUST TO GET IN
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00:14:42.115 --> 00:14:45.550
THE BOAT AND RUN UPSTREAM WHEN
THE RIVER IS GOOD.
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00:14:45.552 --> 00:14:49.354
BY CANOE, I THINK FROM MOUNT
MERCY, IT'S NINE MILES.
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00:14:49.356 --> 00:14:54.158
IT'S FAIR DAY, A LONG SHUTTLE IS
WHAT THE BIGGEST PART IS.
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IT TAKES A WHILE TO GET FROM ONE
ACCESS AREA TO NEXT BECAUSE
THEY'RE SO REMOTE.
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00:14:58.565 --> 00:15:04.636
BUT THAT'S WHAT MAKES IT SO
PRETTY, IT'S THE MOST REMOTE
PART OF ARKANSAS.
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00:15:04.638 --> 00:15:10.341
>> AND IF TIME REALLY ISN'T OF
ANY GREAT CONCERN, YOU CAN DO
THE FULL BLOWN RIVER JOURNEY OF
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00:15:10.343 --> 00:15:12.543
TEN DAYS OR MORE.
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00:15:12.545 --> 00:15:21.219
>> WE DO GET A FEW AVID
ADVENTURERS THAT LIKE TO GO AND
DO THE WHOLE RIVER.
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00:15:21.221 --> 00:15:25.857
WE GET A FEW A YEAR, BUT WE
DON'T HAVE AS MANY AS WE USED TO
GET.
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00:15:25.859 --> 00:15:28.693
IT SEEMS LIKE MOST PEOPLE ARE
DAY FLOATERS AND HIKERS.
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00:15:28.695 --> 00:15:34.098
A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE STARTING TO
COME UP TO HIKE AND KAYAKING HAS
GOTTEN REAL POPULAR TOO AN THE
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00:15:34.100 --> 00:15:36.000
BUFFALO.
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00:15:36.002 --> 00:15:40.939
IT SEEMS THAT PEOPLE CAN COVER A
LOT MORE MILEAGE IN THE KAYAK
THAN IN A CANOE.
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00:15:40.941 --> 00:15:46.577
SO PEOPLE ARE MORE INTERESTED IN
TRYING TO SEE -- SEE AS MUCH OF
THE RIVER AS THEY CAN IN ONE
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00:15:46.579 --> 00:15:48.146
POINT OF TIME.
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00:15:48.148 --> 00:15:53.284
SO THEY LIKE TO GET IN THE
KAYAKS AND TAKE A LONGER STROLL
AND REALLY ENJOY THE SERENITY
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00:15:53.286 --> 00:15:57.188
BECAUSE YOU CAN GET AWAY FROM
THE CROWD IN A KAYAK THAT YOU
CAN DO AT SUCH LONGER STRETCHES.
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00:15:57.190 --> 00:16:02.293
IT FEELS LIKE THE RIVER IS
ALMOST TO YOURSELF.
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00:16:02.295 --> 00:16:12.770
>> WHATEVER YOU DECIDE ON, IT'S
A WISE CHOICE TO GET WITH ONE OF
THE RIVER OUTFITTERS, ESPECIALLY
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00:16:12.772 --> 00:16:16.140
IF YOU'VE NEVER BEEN ON THE
RIVER BEFORE.
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00:16:16.142 --> 00:16:22.280
MANY OF THEM GREW UP ON THIS
RIVER LIKE BEN MILBURN AND KNOW
IT LIKE THE BACK OF THEIR HAND.
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00:16:22.282 --> 00:16:30.355
>> I GET ASKED A LOT OF
QUESTIONS ABOUT WHICH PART OF
THE RIVER IS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL
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00:16:30.357 --> 00:16:31.556
SECTION OF THE RIVER.
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00:16:31.558 --> 00:16:35.893
I HAVE TO TELL EVERYBODY THERE'S
NOT ONE SECTION ANY PRETTIER
THAN THE REST.
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00:16:35.895 --> 00:16:44.836
IT'S TOUGH TO SAY WHAT'S BETTER
THAN THE NEXT BECAUSE IT'S ALL
PRETTY GOOD.
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00:16:44.838 --> 00:16:58.383
I HAVE HAD GUYS FROM LOUISIANA
COME UP AND THEY'RE USED TO
MUDDY RIVERS AND THEY THINK THE
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00:16:58.385 --> 00:17:07.091
RIVER IS A LOT SHALLOWER THAN IT
IS THEY THINK IT'S ANKLE DEEP
AND THEY GO FOR A SWIM, WHICH IS
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00:17:07.093 --> 00:17:10.028
PRETTY AMUSING WHEN YOU SEE
SOMEBODY DO THAT.
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00:17:10.030 --> 00:17:16.701
BUT EVERYBODY HAS ABOUT THE SAME
RESPONSE, THAT THEY'RE AMAZED AT
HOW PRETTY THE RIVER IS AND THEY
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00:17:16.703 --> 00:17:19.170
WANT TO COME BACK AN SEE MORE OF
IT.
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00:17:19.172 --> 00:17:22.673
BECAUSE YOU CAN'T EVER GET
ENOUGH OF IT.
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00:17:22.675 --> 00:17:29.213
I HAVE LIVED HERE MY ENTIRE LIFE
AND I HAVEN'T GOTTEN ENOUGH OF
IT.
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00:17:29.215 --> 00:17:37.522
>> BUT THE RIVER IS ONLY THE
BEGINNING OF WHAT THE ENTIRE
BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER AREA IS
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00:17:37.524 --> 00:17:40.858
ALL ABOUT.
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00:17:40.860 --> 00:17:47.231
THIS RIVER HAS PROVIDED FOR THE
LIVELIHOOD OF MANY PREVIOUS
GENERATIONS.
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00:17:47.233 --> 00:17:52.170
AND THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN
APPRECIATE THAT ASPECT IS TO
VISIT ONE OF THE RESTORED
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00:17:52.172 --> 00:17:56.240
HOMESTEADS ALONG THE BUFFALO,
SUCH AS THE COLLIER HOMESTEAD
NEAR THE TYLER BEND VISITOR
176
00:17:56.242 --> 00:17:58.276
CENTER IN THE MIDDLE PORTION.
177
00:17:58.278 --> 00:18:03.881
THE TYLERS CAME HERE FROM
KENTUCKY IN THE EARLY 1930's AND
THEIRS WAS A SUBSISTENCE FARM.
178
00:18:03.883 --> 00:18:10.088
IT WAS A HARD LIVING BUT TO THEM
A GOOD LIVING.
179
00:18:10.090 --> 00:18:15.626
BEHIND THE HOMESTEAD A QUARTER
MILE LONG TRAIL WILL LEAD YOU TO
TWO SPECTACULAR OVERLOOKS OF THE
180
00:18:15.628 --> 00:18:17.929
RIVER.
181
00:18:17.931 --> 00:18:36.247
AND IN THE UPPER PORTION NEAR
PONCA, FIRST PHOTOGRAPHED IN
1945, THIS AREA BECAME KNOWN
182
00:18:36.249 --> 00:18:39.283
AFTER THAT AS LOST VALLEY.
183
00:18:39.285 --> 00:18:47.925
THIS EASY TO MODERATE ONE-MILE
HIKE WILL TAKE YOU ALONG
TOWERING CLIFFS AND SEVERAL
184
00:18:47.927 --> 00:18:49.494
WATER FALLS.
185
00:18:49.496 --> 00:18:54.966
WITH EDEN FALLS BEING THE MOST
IMPRESSIVE.
186
00:18:54.968 --> 00:19:06.410
THERE'S ALSO COB CAVE WHICH IS
THE LARGE NATIVE AMERICAN BLUFF
SHELTER.
187
00:19:06.412 --> 00:19:11.516
AT THE END OF THE TRAIL THERE'S
ANOTHER SMALLER CAVE YOU CAN
EXPLORE WITH AN UNDERGROUNDWATER
188
00:19:11.518 --> 00:19:14.218
FALL.
189
00:19:14.220 --> 00:19:18.656
JUST BE SURE TO BRING ALONG AT
LEAST TWO LIGHT SOURCES.
190
00:19:18.658 --> 00:19:24.028
ALSO IN THE PONCA AREA ALONG
BOXLEY VALLEY, YOU CAN SEE ALL
THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN ELK THAT WERE
191
00:19:24.030 --> 00:19:27.064
BROUGHT INTO THE STATE DURING
THE 1980's.
192
00:19:27.066 --> 00:19:32.203
EASTERN ELK WERE NATIVE TO THE
BUFFALO RIVER AREA BUT VANISHED
BY THE 1840's AND ARE NOW
193
00:19:32.205 --> 00:19:34.438
EXTINCT.
194
00:19:34.440 --> 00:19:45.349
PROBABLY THE MOST RUGGED AND
DIFFICULT AREA TO GET THROUGH
AND THE MOST TREACHEROUS IF
195
00:19:45.351 --> 00:19:51.289
YOU'RE NOT CAREFUL OR PREPARED
IS ALONG INDIAN CREEK CANYON,
SOUTH OF KYLES LANDING.
196
00:19:51.291 --> 00:19:56.894
THE FIVE MILE OR SO TRAIL IF YOU
CAN FOLLOW IT WILL TAKE YOU INTO
THE MOST UNTOUCHED PLACES IN
197
00:19:56.896 --> 00:19:59.630
THIS COUNTRY.
198
00:19:59.632 --> 00:20:03.434
IT'S RECOMMENDED FOR EXPERIENCED
HIKERS ONLY.
199
00:20:03.436 --> 00:20:10.241
THERE ARE WATER FALLS WITH
UNIQUE ROCK FORMATIONS SUCH AS
THE EYE OF THE NEEDLE.
200
00:20:10.243 --> 00:20:20.284
ALONG THE LOWER PORTION OF THE
RIVER, YOU CAN VISIT THE OLD
ZINC MINING TOWN OF RUSH, OR
201
00:20:20.286 --> 00:20:21.953
WHAT'S LEFT OF IT.
202
00:20:21.955 --> 00:20:26.891
IT NOW REMAINS AS THE ONLY GHOST
TOWN IN THE NATION THAT'S
PROTECTED BY THE FEDERAL
203
00:20:26.893 --> 00:20:30.094
GOVERNMENT.
204
00:20:30.096 --> 00:20:38.002
FOR THE MOST AWESOME AND MOST
SPECTACULAR SCENERY ALONG THE
BUFFALO, THERE ARE TWO AREAS IN
205
00:20:38.004 --> 00:20:41.973
THE UPPER PORTION OF THE RIVER
THAT ARE A MUST-SEE.
206
00:20:41.975 --> 00:20:44.408
FIRST, HEMMED-IN-HOLLOW FALLS.
207
00:20:44.410 --> 00:20:49.380
AT 220 FEET AND ACTUALLY THE
TALLEST WATER FALL IN
MID-AMERICA BETWEEN THE ROCKIES
208
00:20:49.382 --> 00:20:51.549
AND THE APPALACHIANS.
209
00:20:51.551 --> 00:20:57.188
THERE'S A 2 1/2 TRAIL THAT LEADS
TO IT, VERY STRENUOUS THOUGH, SO
THE RECOMMENDATION IS TO TAKE
210
00:20:57.190 --> 00:21:03.094
THE RIVER AND THEN TAKE A
30-MINUTE HIKE.
211
00:21:03.096 --> 00:21:13.738
AND FINALLY WE COME TO THE GOAT
TRAIL ALONG 500-FOOT TALL BIG
BLUFF.
212
00:21:13.740 --> 00:21:18.709
THE SCENERY HERE WILL LITERALLY
TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY AS YOU
HIKE ALONG A TRAIL THAT GOATS
213
00:21:18.711 --> 00:21:22.713
DID INDEED USE YEARS AGO FROM A
NEARBY HOMESTEAD.
214
00:21:22.715 --> 00:21:28.185
TAKING IN THE SIGHTS HERE, YOU
QUICKLY BEGIN TO REALIZE WHY IT
WAS SO EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO
215
00:21:28.187 --> 00:21:34.458
SAVE THE BUFFALO RIVER REGION
FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS.
216
00:21:34.460 --> 00:21:44.435
>> IT REALLY IS A TREASURE OF
AMERICA.
217
00:21:44.437 --> 00:21:46.203
IT IS.
218
00:21:46.205 --> 00:21:47.905
IT IS.
219
00:21:47.907 --> 00:21:54.078
EVERYBODY SHOULD COME SEE IT AT
LEAST ONCE.
220
00:21:54.080 --> 00:22:35.152
>>> THE BATTLE OF PEA RIDGE IS
CONSIDERED ON THE MOST -- TO BE
THE MOST DECISIVE BATTLE WEST OF
221
00:22:35.154 --> 00:22:36.854
THE MISSISSIPPI.
222
00:22:36.856 --> 00:22:38.356
.
223
00:22:38.358 --> 00:22:54.138
>> FIRE!
FIRE!
>> THE CONFEDERATES HAD MORE
224
00:22:54.140 --> 00:23:03.681
MEN, 16,000 TROOPS COMPARED TO
THE UNION FORCES WHICH WAS
10,500 AND WHY DID THE BATTLE
225
00:23:03.683 --> 00:23:18.062
TURN OUT THE WAY IT DID?
>> WELL, THE CONFEDERATE TROOPS
HAD STARTED WITH 16,000.
226
00:23:18.064 --> 00:23:22.900
BY THE TIME THEY GOT TO HERE, IT
WAS PROBABLY 13,000.
227
00:23:22.902 --> 00:23:26.237
PEOPLE FALLING OUT ALONG THE
WAY.
228
00:23:26.239 --> 00:23:30.341
YOU CAN SEE IN TODAY'S -- YOU
CAN SEE THE SAME WAY IN 1862.
229
00:23:30.343 --> 00:23:32.710
SO A LOT OF PEOPLE WERE HUNGRY.
230
00:23:32.712 --> 00:23:36.714
BY THE TIME THEY GOT HERE, THEY
ONLY HAD 13,000.
231
00:23:36.716 --> 00:23:41.185
SO UNION TROOPS WERE ALREADY
HERE, THIS IS WHERE THE SUPPLY
BASE WAS.
232
00:23:41.187 --> 00:23:45.656
THEY HAD BEEN MARCHING FOR THREE
YEARS AND BY THE TIME THEY GOT
HERE, THREE DAYS ON THE ROAD IN
233
00:23:45.658 --> 00:23:48.058
THE COLD AND THE SNOW, EXHAUSTED
THEM.
234
00:23:48.060 --> 00:23:49.660
THEY WERE HUNGRY.
235
00:23:49.662 --> 00:23:53.230
THEY, YOU KNOW -- THEIR ENERGY
WAS ALL SAPPED.
236
00:23:53.232 --> 00:23:56.534
THEY WERE IN NO CONDITION TO
FIGHT.
237
00:23:56.536 --> 00:24:00.504
SO FOR THE -- SO THEY SAID LET'S
GO AND THEY ATTACKED.
238
00:24:00.506 --> 00:24:03.908
DID VERY WELL ON THE FIRST DAY,
HERE ESPECIALLY.
239
00:24:03.910 --> 00:24:08.946
THEY CHARGED RIGHT THROUGH HERE,
UP TO THE ELKHORN TAVERN AND
THEN IT WAS FULL OF FOOD AND
240
00:24:08.948 --> 00:24:11.348
THEY STOPPED AND THEY ATE.
241
00:24:11.350 --> 00:24:13.551
THEY WERE SO HUNGRY.
242
00:24:13.553 --> 00:24:19.824
YOU KNOW, THAT'S ONE REASON --
THE COMMAND POST, THEY COULD
HAVE TAKEN IT, BUT THEY WERE SO
243
00:24:19.826 --> 00:24:23.194
HUNGRY THEY STOPPED AND ATE.
244
00:24:23.196 --> 00:24:30.601
>> AND THIS WAS THE ONLY BATTLE
I GUESS IN MILITARY HISTORY
WHERE A GENERAL -- MOST
245
00:24:30.603 --> 00:24:32.069
SUCCESSFUL.
246
00:24:32.071 --> 00:24:35.906
>> THE SUCCESSFUL -- IT'S BEEN
TRIED BEFORE.
247
00:24:35.908 --> 00:24:39.777
THIS IS WHERE IT WAS MOST
SUCCESSFUL.
248
00:24:39.779 --> 00:24:42.980
THE TROOPS FOR THE MOST PART
WERE THREE MILES FROM HERE.
249
00:24:42.982 --> 00:24:46.650
THIS WAS THE REAR OF THE UNION
LINE RIGHT HERE.
250
00:24:46.652 --> 00:24:51.355
THERE WERE A SMALL DETACHMENT OF
FORCES GUARDING THE FOOD.
251
00:24:51.357 --> 00:24:56.994
SOME OF THE JUNIOR OFFICERS DID
THINK SOMETHING MIGHT BE UP AND
THEY DROPPED A LOT OF TREES
252
00:24:56.996 --> 00:25:00.631
ALONG THE ROAD, SLOWING DOWN VAN
DOREN ON HIS WAY HERE.
253
00:25:00.633 --> 00:25:03.801
>> VAN DOREN WAS THE CONFEDERATE
GENERAL.
254
00:25:03.803 --> 00:25:06.170
>> THE GENERAL.
255
00:25:06.172 --> 00:25:10.007
HE DROPPED THE TREES ACROSS THE
ROAD, YOU CAN'T GET THROUGH.
256
00:25:10.009 --> 00:25:14.278
THE TROOPS HAVE TROUBLE GETTING
FOOD.
257
00:25:14.280 --> 00:25:19.383
SO THEY DROPPED A LOT OF TREES
AND SO BY THE TIME THEY GOT UP
TO HERE, THEY HAD PUSHED THROUGH
258
00:25:19.385 --> 00:25:23.621
A UNION ARTILLERY BATTERY DOWN
THE ROAD AND CAME THROUGH AND
PUSHED THROUGH THIS BATTERY
259
00:25:23.623 --> 00:25:28.292
RIGHT HERE THAT'S WHEN THEY RAN
INTO THE FOOD AND SLOWED DOWN A
LITTLE BIT.
260
00:25:28.294 --> 00:25:32.796
>> SO MOST OF THE BATTLE, MOST
OF THE FIGHTING ALL TOOK PLACE
HERE NEAR ELKHORN TAVERN.
261
00:25:32.798 --> 00:25:34.431
>> A LOT DID.
262
00:25:34.433 --> 00:25:40.437
AND HERE AND DOWN ABOUT A HALF A
MILE UP THE WATER, TOWARDS
MISSOURI, IN THE FIELD OF -- TO
263
00:25:40.439 --> 00:25:45.976
ABOUT HALF A MILE FROM EAST OF
US, A LOT OF MASSACHUSETTS STATE
GUARD TROOPS AGAINST IOWANS AND
264
00:25:45.978 --> 00:25:50.047
ILLINOISANS AND THEY FOUGHT DOWN
THERE.
265
00:25:50.049 --> 00:25:55.986
THE UNION ARMY RETREATED WHEN
THEY RAN OUT OF AMMUNITION AND
THEY MOVED BACK TO THEIR WHERE
266
00:25:55.988 --> 00:25:58.122
THEIR SUPPLIES WERE.
267
00:25:58.124 --> 00:26:03.627
UNFORTUNATELY FOR THE
CONFEDERATE SOURCES, THEY WERE
STILL IN IS UP -- THEIRS WAS
268
00:26:03.629 --> 00:26:06.397
STILL IN THE SUPPLY WAGONS MILES
AWAY.
269
00:26:06.399 --> 00:26:13.203
>> IT HAD MANY NAMES,
BUTTERFIELD, OVERLAND STATE
ROUTE AND TELEGRAPH WIRES.
270
00:26:13.205 --> 00:26:19.310
ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, ALL THE WAY
DOWN --
>> TO FT. SMITH.
271
00:26:19.312 --> 00:26:22.313
>> AND THE TRAIL OF TEARS.
272
00:26:22.315 --> 00:26:26.250
>> YEAH, THE LAND ROUTE OF THE
TRAIL OF TEARS.
273
00:26:26.252 --> 00:26:28.419
THIS WAS A CHEROKEE ROUTE.
274
00:26:28.421 --> 00:26:35.092
THEY CAME FROM GEORGIA AND
TENNESSEE, WORKING THEIR WAY
THROUGH TENNESSEE INTO MISSOURI
275
00:26:35.094 --> 00:26:38.596
COMING BACK INTO ARKANSAS.
276
00:26:38.598 --> 00:26:40.764
AND COMING RIGHT THROUGH HERE.
277
00:26:40.766 --> 00:26:44.168
THIS WAS THE LAST FOOD DEPO FOR
THEM.
278
00:26:44.170 --> 00:26:48.105
ON THE -- THE ELKHORN TAVERN AT
THAT TIME.
279
00:26:48.107 --> 00:26:56.180
THIS WAS THE LAST STOP BEFORE
THEY GOT THEIR RATIONS BEFORE
THEY WENT INTO INDIAN TERRITORY.
280
00:26:56.182 --> 00:27:05.656
>> PEA RIDGE REPRESENTS WHAT
MIGHT BE THE MOST WELL PRESERVED
CIVIL WAR BATTLEFIELD IN THE
281
00:27:05.658 --> 00:27:07.157
UNITED STATES.
282
00:27:07.159 --> 00:27:12.796
TO GET A GOOD SCOPE OF THIS
4,300 ACRE SITE TAKING THE 7 1/2
MILE AUTO TOUR WOULD BE WELL
283
00:27:12.798 --> 00:27:15.799
WORTH YOUR TIME.
284
00:27:15.801 --> 00:27:30.014
THE TENT STOPS ALONG THE WAY ARE
DESIGNED TO PROVIDE INFORMATION
RELATIVE TO BATTLE ACTION AND
285
00:27:30.016 --> 00:27:35.252
SIGNIFICANT FEATURES IN EACH
AREA OF THE PARK.
286
00:27:35.254 --> 00:27:49.099
THE LOOKOUT POINT ATOP THE RIDGE
IS ESPECIALLY A MUST STOP TO GET
AN OVERALL PERSPECTIVE OF HOW
287
00:27:49.101 --> 00:27:57.641
LARGE THE AREA THE CONFEDERATE
AND UNION FORCES TRAVERSED
DURING THE TWO-DAY BATTLE.
288
00:27:57.643 --> 00:28:10.754
TAKING THE HIKING TRAIL WHICH
VEERS OFF FROM THE LOOKOUT POINT
WILL LEAD YOU INTO THE MORE
289
00:28:10.756 --> 00:28:15.225
NATURAL AREA OF THE PARK AND
INTO THE BACK COUNTRY WHERE MANY
OF THE TROOPS MADE THEIR WAY
290
00:28:15.227 --> 00:28:19.329
TOWARDS ELKHORN TAVERN.
291
00:28:19.331 --> 00:28:33.944
PEA RIDGE NATIONAL MILITARY PARK
IS ALSO THE IDEAL PLACE FOR
SCHOOL KIDS TO LEARN FIRSTHAND
292
00:28:33.946 --> 00:28:36.180
ABOUT THE CIVIL WAR.
293
00:28:36.182 --> 00:28:41.752
>> FALLS OUT OF THE BARREL,
DISTRACTING -- THE BALL IS DOWN
BY ITSELF.
294
00:28:41.754 --> 00:28:49.393
IT'S GOING TO TRAVEL UP THIS --
THIS WILL TRAVEL 1,600 YARDS
BEFORE IT HITS THE GROUND.
295
00:28:49.395 --> 00:28:51.895
THIS IS A SOLID SHOT.
296
00:28:51.897 --> 00:28:56.266
WHY WOULD YOU USE THE SOLID
SHOT?
>> [ INAUDIBLE ].
297
00:28:56.268 --> 00:29:01.338
>> WELL, NO, THE SOLID SHOT IS
GOOD FOR BREAKING THINGS.
298
00:29:01.340 --> 00:29:05.242
LIKE THAT BREAKS THE WHEELS.
299
00:29:05.244 --> 00:29:24.962
GO!
>> FIRE!
CEASE-FIRE.
300
00:29:24.964 --> 00:29:28.699
WHAT DID YOU THINK OF THAT?
>> WOW.
301
00:29:28.701 --> 00:29:30.501
>> LOUD.
302
00:29:30.503 --> 00:29:32.369
>> YEAH, VERY LOUD.
303
00:29:32.371 --> 00:29:36.006
IT WOULD HAVE BEEN A LOT LOUDER
HAD IT BEEN A REAL GUN.
304
00:29:36.008 --> 00:29:41.145
WE FIRED TEN OUNCES OF BLACK
POWDER OF REAL -- A REAL ONE HAS
20 OUNCES AND IT'S GOING TO ROLL
305
00:29:41.147 --> 00:29:47.284
BACKWARDS AND SOMEWHERE DOWN
THERE BY THE TREES WE WOULD HAVE
SEEN THE CANNONBALL HIT.
306
00:29:47.286 --> 00:29:58.295
>> FIRE!
FIRE!
FIRE!
307
00:29:58.297 --> 00:30:00.230
>> IT'S MORE FUN TO LEARN.
308
00:30:00.232 --> 00:30:02.366
>> YEAH.
309
00:30:02.368 --> 00:30:05.836
>> THAN ACTUALLY -- ACTUALLY
HERE THAN LOOKING IN A BOOK.
310
00:30:05.838 --> 00:30:09.807
AND IT'S FUN TO HEAR THE CANNONS
GO OFF.
311
00:30:09.809 --> 00:30:14.945
>> FIRE!
FIRE!
>> IT'S MORE COOLER IN PERSON
312
00:30:14.947 --> 00:30:18.849
THAN IN TEXTBOOKS WITH JUST
PICTURES.
313
00:30:18.851 --> 00:30:22.820
BECAUSE YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE
THEM GO OFF.
314
00:30:22.822 --> 00:30:38.235
>> FIRE!
FIRE!
>> SO WHAT WAS ACTUALLY THE
315
00:30:38.237 --> 00:30:44.041
LARGEST ASSEMBLY OF CONFEDERATE
TROOPS WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI
TURNED OUT TO BE A UNION VICTORY
316
00:30:44.043 --> 00:30:46.844
INSTEAD.
317
00:30:46.846 --> 00:31:07.564
TODAY, ELKHORN TAVERN STANDS AS
MEMORIAL IN THE TRANSMISSISSIPPI
WEST HERE AT PEA RIDGE.
318
00:31:07.566 --> 00:31:49.106
THIS IS THE WAY THAT THE
EARLIEST EXPLORES SAW FROM THE
BOW OF THE CANOE.
319
00:31:49.108 --> 00:32:02.386
>> EXACTLY THE RIVERS WERE THE
HIGHWAY AND THAT'S HOW THE
NATIVE INDIANS TRAVELLED.
320
00:32:02.388 --> 00:32:06.890
IN FACT, WHEN MARQUETTE AND
JOLIET FIRST CAME TO THE MOUTH
OF THE ARKANSAS RIVER THEY WERE
321
00:32:06.892 --> 00:32:11.061
GREETED BY SEVERAL DOZEN CANOES
FILLED BY QUAPAW WARRIORS.
322
00:32:11.063 --> 00:32:19.770
THEY TO BE TOLD TO HOLD IT UP AS
A PEACE SYMBOL SO THE QUAPAW
KNEW THEY WERE COMING IN PEACE
323
00:32:19.772 --> 00:32:26.977
AND THEN THEY WERE INVITED TO
PADDLE OVER TO THEIR SHORE AND
THEIR VILLAGES.
324
00:32:26.979 --> 00:32:34.584
A FEW YEARS LATER, WE GET THE
SAME GREETING AND THEY WERE MET
BY QUAPAW AND FOUND THEM VERY
325
00:32:34.586 --> 00:32:42.659
RECEPTIVE TO ESTABLISHING A
TRADE RELATIONSHIP WITH THE
FRENCH.
326
00:32:42.661 --> 00:32:50.534
>> I GUESS THE OTHER MODE OF
TRANSPORTATION WAS BY KEEL BOAT.
327
00:32:50.536 --> 00:32:56.773
>> THAT'S RIGHT, THE KEEL BOATS
CAME ALONG IN THE 1700's AND
WERE USED EVEN AFTER THE STEAM
328
00:32:56.775 --> 00:33:00.077
BOATS CAME ALONG BECAUSE THEY
WERE A VERY PRACTICAL BOAT.
329
00:33:00.079 --> 00:33:03.814
A KEEL BOAT WAS THE 18 WHEELER
OF ITS DAY.
330
00:33:03.816 --> 00:33:07.250
IT COULD CARRY AS MUCH AS AN 18
WHEELER TRUCK, MAYBE EVEN MORE.
331
00:33:07.252 --> 00:33:11.388
THEY COULD BE ANYWHERE FROM 40
TO 80 FEET LONG.
332
00:33:11.390 --> 00:33:16.159
AND THEY WEREN'T THAT WIDE, SO
THEY COULD STILL GET IN BAYOUS
LIKE THIS ONE.
333
00:33:16.161 --> 00:33:20.697
AND THE BEST THING ABOUT THEM
WAS THAT THEY COULD BE PULLED OR
THEY COULD BE PADDLED, THEY
334
00:33:20.699 --> 00:33:24.568
COULD BE ROWED AND THEY COULD BE
SAILED LIKE A SAILBOAT.
335
00:33:24.570 --> 00:33:29.306
SO YOU HAD WAYS TO GO UPSTREAM
AND DOWNSTREAM.
336
00:33:29.308 --> 00:33:41.752
>> SETTLED BY THE FRENCH IN
1686, THE REMOTE POST TO
ARKANSAS WAS THE FIRST PERMANENT
337
00:33:41.754 --> 00:33:46.123
EUROPEAN COLONY IN THE LOWER
MISSISSIPPI VALLEY.
338
00:33:46.125 --> 00:33:51.194
THE FRENCH BEING CATHOLIC
CONSTRUCTED CROSSES AT THE POST.
339
00:33:51.196 --> 00:34:05.575
THE POST PLAYED A VALUABLE ROLE
IN THE LONG STRUGGLE BETWEEN
FRANCE, SPAIN AND ENGLAND FOR
340
00:34:05.577 --> 00:34:10.313
DOMINANCE OF THE LUCRATIVE FUR
TRADE.
341
00:34:10.315 --> 00:34:22.993
>> PEOPLE FORGET THAT THIS AREA
WAS SETTLED BY FUR TRADERS, BY
HUNTERS AND TRAPPERS.
342
00:34:22.995 --> 00:34:27.497
CONTRARY TO POPULAR OPINION,
FARMERS DIDN'T SETTLE ARKANSAS.
343
00:34:27.499 --> 00:34:31.868
THE FUR TRADE CAME FIRST AND IT
RULED FOR OVER A HUNDRED YEARS.
344
00:34:31.870 --> 00:34:38.008
EVEN AFTER FARMERS CAME TO BEGIN
COLONIZING THE AREA AND SETTLING
IN THE NEW PART OF THE UNITED
345
00:34:38.010 --> 00:34:45.549
STATES, FUR TRAPPINGS CONTINUED
TO BE THE WAY TO PUT MONEY IN
THEIR POCKET BECAUSE MANY OF THE
346
00:34:45.551 --> 00:34:51.054
FARMERS WERE WERE -- THEY BARELY
GREW ENOUGH TO SUPPORT
THEMSELVES MUCH LESS BRING IN
347
00:34:51.056 --> 00:34:53.657
SOME CASH TO BUY OTHER THINGS
WITH.
348
00:34:53.659 --> 00:34:58.095
BUT THROUGH THE FUR TRADE EVEN
THROUGH THE 1940's MY FATHER AS
A CHILD EARNED POCKET MONEY AND
349
00:34:58.097 --> 00:35:03.166
MONEY FOR HIS FAMILY THROUGH
HUNTING RACCOON AND SELLING THEM
AT A LOCAL STEINBERG'S IN TOWN.
350
00:35:03.168 --> 00:35:24.688
>> THE ROLE OF ARKANSAS POST
ACTUALLY SPANS 300 YEARS AT
SHAPING AMERICAN HISTORY.
351
00:35:24.690 --> 00:35:38.435
>> FIRE!
>> IN 1783 COLBERT'S RAID TOOK
PLACE WHICH WAS NOT ONLY THE
352
00:35:38.437 --> 00:35:44.174
LAST BATTLE OF THE AMERICAN
REVOLUTION ON AMERICAN SOIL, BUT
ALSO ARKANSAS'S ONLY
353
00:35:44.176 --> 00:35:47.244
REVOLUTIONARY WAR EVENT.
354
00:35:47.246 --> 00:35:51.748
>> FIRE!
355
00:35:51.750 --> 00:36:00.724
>> COLBERT WAS A BRITISH
LOYALIST AND HE BATHERED A FEW
OTHER BRITISH PARTISANS AND
356
00:36:00.726 --> 00:36:06.163
CHICKASAW AND MARCHED OVER TO
WHAT IS TODAY ARKANSAS POST.
357
00:36:06.165 --> 00:36:08.331
THE NATIONAL MEMORIAL.
358
00:36:08.333 --> 00:36:12.269
FT.CARLOS III WAS THE
SPANISH FORT THERE.
359
00:36:12.271 --> 00:36:21.745
THEY TOOK HOSTAGES FROM THE
NEARBY HOMES AND SHOT A COUPLE
OF THE SOLDIERS AT FT. CARLOS.
360
00:36:21.747 --> 00:36:30.287
AND AFTER FIRING THE CANNONS AT
COLBERT'S MEN, THEY FINALLY
DECIDED JUST TO MAKE A BIG NOISE
361
00:36:30.289 --> 00:36:34.224
AND RUN OUT THE GATE AND SCARE
THEM OFF.
362
00:36:34.226 --> 00:36:35.759
AND IT WORKED.
363
00:36:35.761 --> 00:36:40.497
COLBERT AND THE BRITISH RAN
AWAY.
364
00:36:40.499 --> 00:36:53.476
>> AFTER ARKANSAS POST BECAME A
PART OF THE UNITED STATES
FOLLOWING THE LOUISIANA
365
00:36:53.478 --> 00:36:59.049
PURCHASE, IN 1819 IT WAS
SELECTED AS THE FIRST CAPITAL OF
THE NEW ARKANSAS TERRITORY AND
366
00:36:59.051 --> 00:37:04.354
HAS OFTEN BEEN REFERRED TO AS
THE BIRTH PLACE OF ARKANSAS.
367
00:37:04.356 --> 00:37:19.769
WHAT YOU MIGHT SAY WAS THE
DECLINE OF ARKANSAS POST
HAPPENED DURING THE CIVIL WAR.
368
00:37:19.771 --> 00:37:25.976
IN 1863, UNION TROOPS DESTROYED
FT. HINDMAN AT THE POST AND
ENSURING CONTROL OF THE ARKANSAS
369
00:37:25.978 --> 00:37:27.077
RIVER.
370
00:37:27.079 --> 00:37:31.982
IN THE POST CIVIL WAR YEARS,
DECLINING RIVER TRAFFIC AND
RAILROADS UNDERMINED ITS
371
00:37:31.984 --> 00:37:35.285
IMPORTANCE AS A PORT.
372
00:37:35.287 --> 00:37:44.427
TODAY, ARKANSAS POST NATIONAL
MEMORIAL IS A PRISTINE HABITAT
FOR HUNDREDS OF AQUATIC SPECIES
373
00:37:44.429 --> 00:37:51.635
AND THE GREAT WAY TO EXPLORE IT
IS ALL TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF ONE
OF THE BAYOU FLOATS OFFERED IN
374
00:37:51.637 --> 00:37:57.874
THE SPRING AND IN THE FALL.
375
00:37:57.876 --> 00:38:09.352
FROM THE BEGINNING IT WAS THE
EUROPEAN TRAPPERS AND HUNTERS
ALONG WITH QUAPAW INDIANS WHO
376
00:38:09.354 --> 00:38:15.058
WERE DRAWN TO THIS AREA BECAUSE
OF ITS PLENTIFUL WILDLIFE AND
TODAY, ARKANSAS POST OFFERS
377
00:38:15.060 --> 00:38:20.196
EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITIES FOR
WILDLIFE VIEWING.
378
00:38:20.198 --> 00:38:27.637
>> LOTS OF WILDLIFE AND IT DOES
CHANGE VISIBLY.
379
00:38:27.639 --> 00:38:34.978
OF COURSE, GET A LOT OF WATER
FOWL IN HERE WHO STAY DURING THE
WINTER AND WE HAVE HAWKS AND
380
00:38:34.980 --> 00:38:40.116
EAGLES WHO COME IN IN THE FALL
AND STAY THROUGH THE WINTER
MONTHS AS WELL.
381
00:38:40.118 --> 00:38:45.322
THEN IN THE SPRING WE HAVE A
WHOLE DIFFERENT GROUP THAT
ARRIVE, PROTHONOTARY WAR BIRDS
382
00:38:45.324 --> 00:38:48.291
AND MANY OTHERS COME IN THE
SPRINGTIME.
383
00:38:48.293 --> 00:38:54.631
YOU SHOULD COME BACK THREE TO
SIX MONTHS LATER AND YOU'LL SEE
A WHOLE DIFFERENT POPULATION
384
00:38:54.633 --> 00:38:56.199
HERE.
385
00:38:56.201 --> 00:39:06.976
>> SOME OF THAT POPULATION YOU
MAY COME UPON IS THE AMERICAN
ALLIGATOR.
386
00:39:06.978 --> 00:39:10.980
ONCE ON THE BRINK OF EXTINCTION,
IT HAS MADE A COMEBACK IN
ARKANSAS.
387
00:39:10.982 --> 00:39:14.551
IN FACT, DOZENS OF ALLIGATORS
RESIDE AT ARKANSAS POST.
388
00:39:14.553 --> 00:39:21.091
A FEW OF WHICH ARE 14 FEET OR
MORE IN LENGTH, SO CAREFUL NOT
TO GET TOO CLOSE.
389
00:39:21.093 --> 00:39:28.064
>>> IT WAS ONE OF THE FIRST U.S.
MILITARY POSTS ESTABLISHED IN
THE LOUISIANA TERRITORY.
390
00:39:28.066 --> 00:39:34.504
OVERLOOKING THE SITE WHERE THE
ARKANSAS RIVERS MEET, THE U.S.
ARMY OPTED THIS FOR A FORT AND
391
00:39:34.506 --> 00:39:42.245
WHEN THEY ARRIVED HERE IN 1817,
THEY NAMED IT FT. SMITH AFTER
THOMAS SMITH, THEIR COMMANDING
392
00:39:42.247 --> 00:39:44.848
OFFICER.
393
00:39:44.850 --> 00:39:49.919
HERE AT THE FT. SMITH HISTORIC
SITE, YOU CAN WALK WHERE MEXICAN
WAR AND CIVIL WAR SOLDIERS
394
00:39:49.921 --> 00:39:54.023
DRILLED PAWS ALONG THE TRAIL OF
TEARS AND WITNESS WHERE JUSTICE
WAS SERVED.
395
00:39:54.025 --> 00:40:07.737
>> THE FIRST FORT HERE WAS WITH
A WOODSTOCK CAVE, LOOKED LIKE
YOUR -- YOU KNOW, YOUR
396
00:40:07.739 --> 00:40:12.075
STEREOTYPICAL WOODSTOCK AID
MILITARY FORT THAT YOU SEE BACK
EAST.
397
00:40:12.077 --> 00:40:14.110
I ONLY LASTED EIGHT YEARS.
398
00:40:14.112 --> 00:40:20.116
THEY -- THE CITY OF FT. SMITH
KIND OF GREW UP AROUND IT AND
THE INFLUENCE OF LIQUOR AND
399
00:40:20.118 --> 00:40:24.654
OTHER INFLUENCES ON THE SOLDIERS
KIND OF DISRUPTED THE MILITARY
OPERATION, SO THEY MOVED OVER
400
00:40:24.656 --> 00:40:28.625
INTO INDIAN TERRITORY FARTHER
THAN WHERE IT WAS ON THE LEFT.
401
00:40:28.627 --> 00:40:31.227
IT BECAME EMPTY HERE.
402
00:40:31.229 --> 00:40:36.766
OF COURSE, THE CITIZENS THAT HAD
MOVED TO FT. SMITH WERE UPIT IS
BECAUSE THEIR INCOME MOVED AWAY
403
00:40:36.768 --> 00:40:41.237
FROM THEM AND THEY BUILT THE
SECOND ONE, WHICH WAS A
SUBSTANTIAL MILITARY FORT.
404
00:40:41.239 --> 00:40:45.809
IT HAD A STONE WALL AROUND IT.
405
00:40:45.811 --> 00:40:49.779
BIG BRICK BUILDINGS, I MEAN, IT
WAS FAIRLY IMPRESSIVE PLACE.
406
00:40:49.781 --> 00:40:55.919
BUT BY THAT TIME, MOST OF THE
HOSTILITIES WERE FARTHER OUT
WEST AND IT BECAME MORE OF A
407
00:40:55.921 --> 00:40:57.487
SUPPLY BASE.
408
00:40:57.489 --> 00:41:04.994
SUPPLIES WOULD COME UP RIVER
WHICH IS PRETTY WELL WATER
LEVELS WOULD ALLOW IT TO COME UP
409
00:41:04.996 --> 00:41:06.996
THIS FAR PRETTY REGULAR.
410
00:41:06.998 --> 00:41:10.433
FROM HERE, IT WAS LOAD LOADED --
LOADED ON WAGONS.
411
00:41:10.435 --> 00:41:16.739
THEN DURING THE CIVIL WAR, THE
UNION -- WHEN THE WAR STARTED
THE CONFEDERATES CAME UP FROM
412
00:41:16.741 --> 00:41:18.274
LITTLE ROCK, TOOK THE FORT OVER.
413
00:41:18.276 --> 00:41:25.482
THE UNION LEFT, THE CONFEDERATES
STAYED HERE AND LAUNCHED THEIR
MILITARY OPERATIONS INTO PRAIRIE
414
00:41:25.484 --> 00:41:29.586
GROVE AND INTO WILSON'S CREEK
FROM HERE.
415
00:41:29.588 --> 00:41:35.458
AND THEN LATER ON, AS THE WAR OF
PROGRESS, THE UNION CAME OUT,
CHASED THEM OUT AND THEY STAYED
416
00:41:35.460 --> 00:41:36.526
HERE.
417
00:41:36.528 --> 00:41:41.030
IT BECAME A UNION BASE FOR
OPERATIONS FOR THE REST OF THE
WAR.
418
00:41:41.032 --> 00:41:45.935
IT WAS A LITTLE BIT ALMOST LIKE
VIETNAM, YOU KNOW?
THE UNION CONTROL HERE OUT IN
419
00:41:45.937 --> 00:41:50.139
THE COUNTRYSIDE, IT WAS
ANYBODY'S GUESS WHO WAS IN
CHARGE.
420
00:41:50.141 --> 00:41:54.978
IT WAS A ROUGH TIME DURING THE
CIVIL WAR IN THIS PART OF THE
COUNTRY.
421
00:41:54.980 --> 00:42:06.689
>> PROBABLY WHAT THIS HISTORIC
SITE IS MOST WELL KNOWN FOR IS
THIS MAN, JUDGE ISSAC PARKER.
422
00:42:06.691 --> 00:42:13.162
FOR 21 YEARS HE HELD THE BENCH
OF THE U.S. COURT OF THE WESTERN
DISTRICT OF ARKANSAS.
423
00:42:13.164 --> 00:42:18.601
PARKER WAS NOTORIOUS FOR HIS
SWIFT, WESTERN-STYLE JUSTICE AND
BECAME KNOWN AS THE HANGING
424
00:42:18.603 --> 00:42:20.370
JUDGE.
425
00:42:20.372 --> 00:42:24.040
>> -- FEW INDIANS, STEP TO THE
SIDE.
426
00:42:24.042 --> 00:42:31.214
>> HE'S BECOME THAT WAY IN THE
20th CENTURY ANYHOW, YOU KNOW?
DURING THE PERIOD HE WAS HERE,
427
00:42:31.216 --> 00:42:33.983
HE WAS A BELOVED MEMBER OF THE
COMMUNITY.
428
00:42:33.985 --> 00:42:37.120
YOU KNOW, HE WAS ON THE SCHOOL
BOARD, THE FIRST HOSPITAL BOARD.
429
00:42:37.122 --> 00:42:41.858
HE STARTED THE FIRST ARKANSAS
STATE FAIR IN THIS PART OF THE
COUNTRY.
430
00:42:41.860 --> 00:42:47.397
SO HE WAS AN UPSTANDING CITIZEN
HERE AND NOBODY THOUGHT OF HIM
AS -- SO MUCH AS A HANGING JUDGE
431
00:42:47.399 --> 00:42:49.165
OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT.
432
00:42:49.167 --> 00:42:56.239
IT WAS WHEN THE LITERATURE
STARTED IN THE 20th CENTURY THAT
THAT CAME ABOUT.
433
00:42:56.241 --> 00:43:05.181
>> PARKER SENTENCED MORE PEOPLE
TO HANG THAN ANY OTHER JUDGE IN
AMERICAN HISTORY.
434
00:43:05.183 --> 00:43:07.150
160.
435
00:43:07.152 --> 00:43:12.322
BUT LESS THAN HALF OF THOSE,
ONLY 79, ACTUALLY WALKED UP
THESE GALLOWS TO MEET THEIR
436
00:43:12.324 --> 00:43:16.392
FATE.
437
00:43:16.394 --> 00:43:23.700
FT. SMITH NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE
IS PART OF THE TRAIL OF TEARS
NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAIL, A RIVER
438
00:43:23.702 --> 00:43:30.640
OVERLOOK INTERPRETS THE REMOVAL
OF FIVE EASTERN TRIBES,
CHEROKEE, CHOCTAW,
439
00:43:30.642 --> 00:43:36.479
CHICKASAW, MUSKOGEE--OR CREEK,
AND SEMINOLE.
440
00:43:36.481 --> 00:43:43.987
>> ARKANSAS HAS HAD MEMBERS OF
ALL FIVE TRIBES RELOCATED FROM
THE SOUTHEAST COME UP THE
441
00:43:43.989 --> 00:43:45.588
ARKANSAS RIVER.
442
00:43:45.590 --> 00:43:49.459
HERE WAS THE LAST STOP BEFORE
INDIAN TERRITORY ON THE RIVER.
443
00:43:49.461 --> 00:43:54.664
AND THEY -- IF THE TREATY SAID
THEY WOULD GET SO MUCH SUPPLIES,
YOU KNOW, BEFORE THEY ENTERED
444
00:43:54.666 --> 00:43:57.200
INTO INDIAN TERRITORY, THIS IS
WHERE THEY WERE ISSUED.
445
00:43:57.202 --> 00:44:02.271
THEN LATER ON, FT. SMITH BECAME
THE TRADING CENTER AND FOLKS
CAME HERE TO GET THE SUPPLIES.
446
00:44:02.273 --> 00:44:04.641
I MEAN, THE CITY.
447
00:44:04.643 --> 00:44:11.347
THAT'S WHY IT WAS A NICE LANDING
SPOT, THE SOLDIERS STAYED HERE.
448
00:44:11.349 --> 00:44:13.149
ISSUED THE SUPPLIES.
449
00:44:13.151 --> 00:44:18.121
THEN THEY EITHER WENT UP THE
RIVER OR THEY COULD CROSS RIGHT
HERE AND GO BY LAND.
450
00:44:18.123 --> 00:44:21.157
SO A LOT OF THEM WENT UP ON THE
RIVER.
451
00:44:21.159 --> 00:44:25.828
OBVIOUSLY, THE TRIBES THAT WERE
FARTHER OVER IN OKLAHOMA WENT AS
FAR AS THEY COULD IN THOSE DAYS
452
00:44:25.830 --> 00:44:28.197
ON THE RIVER, THEN THEY HAD TO
WALK.
453
00:44:28.199 --> 00:44:30.199
>> THERE'S A LONG LINE OF THEM.
454
00:44:30.201 --> 00:44:35.204
SO WALK A LITTLE --
>> WITH SUCH VARIED HIS TORE
HERE, AREA SCHOOL GROUPS ARE
455
00:44:35.206 --> 00:44:39.409
CONSTANTLY BEING PRESENTED WITH
THE UNIQUE OUTDOOR CLASSROOM.
456
00:44:39.411 --> 00:44:46.883
>> THIS WAS THE FIRST FORT BUILT
HERE IN FT. SMITH AS FAR BACK
AS 1817.
457
00:44:46.885 --> 00:44:50.586
SO IT WAS PUT THERE BY SOLDIERS
THAT WERE DRESSED LIKE I AM.
458
00:44:50.588 --> 00:44:56.526
NOW, THE SOLDIERS WERE CALLED
RIFLEMAN AND THEY WERE THE ELITE
SOLDIERS OF THE MILITARY DURING
459
00:44:56.528 --> 00:44:59.696
THE EARLY 1800's.
460
00:44:59.698 --> 00:45:03.332
KIND OF LIKE ARMY RANGERS OR
GREEN BERETS.
461
00:45:03.334 --> 00:45:08.838
HAVE YOU HEARD OF THOSE KIND OF
SOLDIERS?
NO?
462
00:45:08.840 --> 00:45:09.872
SPECIAL FORCES.
463
00:45:09.874 --> 00:45:13.443
WELL, THESE GUYS WERE THE BEST
SOLDIERS THAT THE MILITARY HAD.
464
00:45:13.445 --> 00:45:16.279
THEY HAD A REASON FOR SENDING
THEM HERE.
465
00:45:16.281 --> 00:45:21.184
THEY SENT THEM HERE TO KEEP THE
PEACE BETWEEN TWO DIFFERENT
INDIAN TRIBES, THE CHEROKEE AND
466
00:45:21.186 --> 00:45:22.251
THE OSAGE.
467
00:45:22.253 --> 00:45:27.090
HAVE YOU HEARD OF THE CHEROKEE?
HOW ABOUT THE OSAGE?
>> THIS IS THE PLACE WHERE THEY
468
00:45:27.092 --> 00:45:29.859
DRILLED, STUDENTS GOT TO
EXPERIENCE WHAT THAT WAS LIKE.
469
00:45:29.861 --> 00:45:35.565
>> THE THING THAT'S IMPORTANT
HERE, EVERYBODY NEEDS TO KEEP IT
STRAIGHT UP.
470
00:45:35.567 --> 00:45:39.936
THAT WAY WHAT YOU TURN, YOU
DON'T BUMP YOUR BUDDY IN THE
BACK OF THE HEAD.
471
00:45:39.938 --> 00:45:44.807
WE'RE GOING TO WALK DOWN TO THE
RIVER AND I'M GOING TO TAKE US
TO THE PATH AND TAKE A WALK DOWN
472
00:45:44.809 --> 00:45:46.242
TO THE RIVER.
473
00:45:46.244 --> 00:45:50.747
IF YOU START GETTING TIRED I'LL
SHOW YOU HOW TO CARRY THE RIFLE
IN A DIFFERENT WAY.
474
00:45:50.749 --> 00:45:53.282
WE'RE ALMOST THERE.
475
00:45:53.284 --> 00:45:56.486
HALT!
LEFT FACE.
476
00:45:56.488 --> 00:46:11.434
OKAY, NOW, WHEN I TOLD YOU TO
ORDER ARMS, YOU GRASP YOUR
MUSKET UP HERE.
477
00:46:11.436 --> 00:46:13.736
NOW, ORDER ARMS.
478
00:46:13.738 --> 00:46:17.874
PUT YOUR HAND UP HERE AND BRING
IT DOWN TO YOUR RIGHT SIDE.
479
00:46:17.876 --> 00:46:19.575
OKAY.
480
00:46:19.577 --> 00:46:24.614
NOW, HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO CARRY
AROUND A REAL MUSKET THAT'S
HEAVIER THAN THAT, LIKE MINE,
481
00:46:24.616 --> 00:46:28.484
ALL DAY LONG?
WELL, IT WOULD GET EXHAUSTING
AFTER A WHILE.
482
00:46:28.486 --> 00:46:30.453
I KNOW THAT.
483
00:46:30.455 --> 00:46:34.223
ANOTHER THING ABOUT RIFLE
REGIMENT, THEY WEAR GREEN.
484
00:46:34.225 --> 00:46:37.660
YOU PROBABLY WONDER WHY I'M
WEARING THIS FUNNY COAT.
485
00:46:37.662 --> 00:46:42.331
YOU KNOW HOW THE HUNTERS WEAR
THE CAMOUFLAGE COATS NOW?
THIS WAS THE EQUIVALENT TO THAT
486
00:46:42.333 --> 00:46:43.432
BACK THEN.
487
00:46:43.434 --> 00:46:48.070
THEY HAD YELLOW TRIM ON IT
BECAUSE THAT WAS THE GREEN AND
YELLOW WERE THE COLORS OF THE
488
00:46:48.072 --> 00:46:52.275
REGIMENT AND THEY COULD BLEND
INTO THE WOODS AND THEY WOULDN'T
SEE THEM AS WELL.
489
00:46:52.277 --> 00:46:57.613
>> STUDENTS GAIN A GREATER
INSIGHT TO ALL THE STEPS THAT
GOES INTO PREPARING A MUZZLE
490
00:46:57.615 --> 00:46:59.582
LOADER TO FIRE.
491
00:46:59.584 --> 00:47:07.890
>> PUT IT RIGHT IN FRONT OF
THEM, AND THEN PRIME -- YOU POUR
YOUR POWDER DOWN THERE AND PUSH
492
00:47:07.892 --> 00:47:11.594
YOUR BULLET IN, WITHDRAW, RAM
IT.
493
00:47:11.596 --> 00:47:14.463
SO THEY WITHDRAW IT, RAM DOWN
CARTRIDGE.
494
00:47:14.465 --> 00:47:16.766
SO YOU RAM DOWN THE CARTRIDGE.
495
00:47:16.768 --> 00:47:23.239
AND YOU COME BACK UP TO SHOULDER
ARMS.
496
00:47:23.241 --> 00:47:27.944
AND THEN AT SHOULDER ARMS, YOU
WAIT FOR THE ORDER TO MAKE
READY.
497
00:47:27.946 --> 00:47:32.381
AT MAKE READY, YOU COCK IT, TAKE
AIM.
498
00:47:32.383 --> 00:47:34.884
THEY WOULD STEP INTO IT AND
FIRE.
499
00:47:34.886 --> 00:47:36.953
EVERYBODY HOLD THEIR EARS.
500
00:47:36.955 --> 00:47:40.256
FIRE!
THERE.
501
00:47:40.258 --> 00:47:45.928
>> AS ONE MIGHT GUESS, A HISTORY
LESSON IN THIS TYPE OF SETTING
MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE
502
00:47:45.930 --> 00:47:51.467
WORLD IN THE STUDENTS' RETENTION
FACTOR AND MAKING SENSE OF IT
ALL.
503
00:47:51.469 --> 00:48:00.509
>> THIS IS A BETTER EXPERIENCE
THAN HAVING TO STUDY ABOUT IT,
AND ALREADY KNOWING ABOUT IT
504
00:48:00.511 --> 00:48:01.978
BEFORE YOU GO BACK TO SCHOOL.
505
00:48:01.980 --> 00:48:04.547
SO YOU'LL KNOW MORE.
506
00:48:04.549 --> 00:48:09.185
>> WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT
HAVING ALL THOSE STEPS TO FIRE
OFF A MUSKET OR A RIFLE?
507
00:48:09.187 --> 00:48:11.621
>> I WOULDN'T WANT TO BE IN A
WAR.
508
00:48:11.623 --> 00:48:36.946
>> CENTRAL HIGH, LITTLE ROCK,
ARKANSAS, SEPTEMBER 4, 1957.
509
00:48:36.948 --> 00:48:41.350
WHAT HAPPENED HERE ON THAT DAY
SHOULD NEVER HAVE HAPPENED.
510
00:48:41.352 --> 00:48:46.622
WHY SHOULD SOMEONE BE BARRED
FROM ENTERING A SCHOOL SIMPLY
BECAUSE OF THEIR SKIN COLOR?
511
00:48:46.624 --> 00:48:49.725
THERE'S NOT ANY JUSTIFICATION OR
LOGIC TO IT.
512
00:48:49.727 --> 00:48:54.897
BUT IN 1957, IT DID HAPPEN TO
NINE STUDENTS WHO LATER BECAME
KNOWN AS THE LITTLE ROCK NINE.
513
00:48:54.899 --> 00:48:59.869
AND IT LEFT THEM WITH THEIR OWN
PAINFUL HISTORY LESSON AS TO
WHY.
514
00:48:59.871 --> 00:49:04.040
YOU SEE, CENTRAL HIGH IS NOT
JUST ANOTHER NATIONAL HISTORIC
SITE.
515
00:49:04.042 --> 00:49:09.312
BECAUSE WHAT HAPPENED HERE
BASICALLY PUT ON TRIAL AMERICA'S
COMMITMENT TO ITS FOUNDING
516
00:49:09.314 --> 00:49:11.280
PRINCIPLES.
517
00:49:11.282 --> 00:49:21.157
WHAT MUST HAVE BEEN GOING
THROUGH YOUR MIND WHEN YOU CAME
TO THE SCHOOL THAT MORNING?
518
00:49:21.159 --> 00:49:27.196
AND WHAT HAPPENED?
>> WELL, ALL THE DRAMA AND
VIOLENCE THAT HAPPENED ON THE
519
00:49:27.198 --> 00:49:34.937
FIRST DAY WAS A REAL SHOCK TO ME
BECAUSE AS A 15-YEAR-OLD WHEN I
SIGNED UP TO GO TO CENTRAL, I
520
00:49:34.939 --> 00:49:37.606
WAS JUST GOING TO SCHOOL.
521
00:49:37.608 --> 00:49:47.316
IT WAS 11 BLOCKS FROM MY HOUSE,
IT'S THERE, THOSE KIND OF
TEENAGE WAYS OF THINKING.
522
00:49:47.318 --> 00:49:57.059
SO TO COME INTO BOTH SOLDIERS
LINING THE SIDEWALK AND A MOB --
WE WERE SANDWICHED BETWEEN THOSE
523
00:49:57.061 --> 00:50:00.896
TWO, IT WAS -- OH, IT WAS VERY
SHOCKING TO ME.
524
00:50:00.898 --> 00:50:07.737
I WOULD ALMOST SAY WE NEVER
RECOVERED FROM THAT DAY, BECAUSE
I DID ALL THE THINGS LIKE
525
00:50:07.739 --> 00:50:13.743
PLEDGING ALLEGIANCE AND HIDING
UNDER THE DESKS FROM THE
RUSSIANS AND ALL THOSE -- SAYING
526
00:50:13.745 --> 00:50:21.684
ALL THE SONGS AND THEN ON THAT
FIRST DAY OF SCHOOL, I REALIZED
IT DIDN'T MEAN -- I HAVE BEEN
527
00:50:21.686 --> 00:50:24.487
DOING THIS IN ERROR.
528
00:50:24.489 --> 00:50:31.961
SO THAT IS PROBABLY THE
STRONGEST FEELING THAT I HAD.
529
00:50:31.963 --> 00:50:35.431
WAS OH, MY GOODNESS.
530
00:50:35.433 --> 00:50:38.034
THIS WAS NEVER ABOUT ME.
531
00:50:38.036 --> 00:50:46.675
AND I WAS HORRIFIED, BUT
FASCINATED BY THE WOMEN WHO WERE
SCREAMING OBSCENITIES AND IT
532
00:50:46.677 --> 00:50:53.149
CONTINUES TO BE SOMETHING THAT I
THINK ABOUT AND SORT OF
INTERROGATE AND WORK ON
533
00:50:53.151 --> 00:50:59.755
UNDERSTANDING AND WORK AT TRYING
TO STOP IT FROM HAPPENING AGAIN.
534
00:50:59.757 --> 00:51:05.561
ALTHOUGH THAT'S THE -- ALMOST A
WASTE OF TIME, BUT THAT'S WHAT
MY LIFE IS ABOUT.
535
00:51:05.563 --> 00:51:15.604
>> BY TAKING THE CENTRAL HIGH
BIKE TOUR YOU'LL HEAR THE
STARTLING FACTS BEHIND THOSE
536
00:51:15.606 --> 00:51:20.910
BLACK AND WHITE IMAGES OF SAY,
FOR EXAMPLE, ELIZABETH ECKFORD,
ALSO ONE OF THE LITTLE ROCK
537
00:51:20.912 --> 00:51:22.411
NINE.
538
00:51:22.413 --> 00:51:27.483
>> SHE WALKED IN THE MIDDLE OF
THIS CROWD N THE MIDDLE OF THIS
STREET, ALL THE WAY DOWN TO
539
00:51:27.485 --> 00:51:31.587
WHERE WE'RE STANDING AND SHE
TRIED TO COME IN THROUGH THE
SOLDIERS AND THEY SAID, YOU
540
00:51:31.589 --> 00:51:32.855
CAN'T COME IN.
541
00:51:32.857 --> 00:51:38.094
AT THIS POINT, SHE FIGURED THEY
WEREN'T HERE TO HELP HER, THEY
WERE TO KEEP HER OUT OF THE
542
00:51:38.096 --> 00:51:39.261
SCHOOL.
543
00:51:39.263 --> 00:51:44.200
SO SHE CONTINUED TO WALK DOWN
THE BLOCK, PEOPLE YELLING AT
HER, THEY DIDN'T WANT HER OR THE
544
00:51:44.202 --> 00:51:47.703
OTHER NINE IN THE SCHOOL.
545
00:51:47.705 --> 00:51:53.509
SHE MADE IT DOWN TO THE END OF
THE CORNER WHERE THERE USED TO
BE A DRUGSTORE AND THE OWNER SAW
546
00:51:53.511 --> 00:51:59.248
HER COMING AND SAW HUNDREDS OF
PEOPLE BEHIND HER AND HE LOCKED
THE DOOR AND ALL SHE WANTED TO
547
00:51:59.250 --> 00:52:06.422
DO WAS GET TO A PAY PHONE TO
CALL HER MOM TO COME AND HELP
HER.
548
00:52:06.424 --> 00:52:11.660
SHE COULDN'T GET IN THERE, SO
SHE CAME BACK TO THE OTHER SIDE
OF THE STREET AND SAT ON A BUS
549
00:52:11.662 --> 00:52:12.995
BENCH.
550
00:52:12.997 --> 00:52:17.933
SHE WAITED FOR THE CITY BUS TO
TAKE HER TO HER MOTHER'S SCHOOL.
551
00:52:17.935 --> 00:52:22.438
A COUPLE OF PEOPLE SAT DOWN NEXT
TO HER, A COUPLE OF THE PORTERS
WERE HERE.
552
00:52:22.440 --> 00:52:26.408
ONE SAT DOWN NEXT TO HER AND
SAID, DON'T LET THEM SEE YOU
CRY.
553
00:52:26.410 --> 00:52:28.177
BE BRAVE.
554
00:52:28.179 --> 00:52:31.447
FOR THE REST OF THE SCHOOL YEAR,
THE NINE WERE VERY BRAVE.
555
00:52:31.449 --> 00:52:39.588
>> WELL, DURING THE CRISIS,
DAISY BATES, THIS BEAUTIFUL
WOMAN, WAS THE PRESIDENT OF THE
556
00:52:39.590 --> 00:52:43.359
LOCAL STATE CHAPTER OF THE
NAACP.
557
00:52:43.361 --> 00:52:46.629
MANY PEOPLE LOOKED AT HER AS A
MENTOR TO THE NINE.
558
00:52:46.631 --> 00:52:51.834
AND THIS HOUSE WHERE WE ARE
RIGHT NOW, WHILE THE STUDENTS
WERE OUT OF SCHOOL, THIS IS LIKE
559
00:52:51.836 --> 00:52:53.936
THEIR MEETING PLACE.
560
00:52:53.938 --> 00:52:59.074
THE PORTERS CAME HERE, THEY GOT
THEIR ASSIGNMENTS, IT BECAME THE
DAISY BATES SCHOOL ESSENTIALLY.
561
00:52:59.076 --> 00:53:09.985
>> THE FINAL STOP OF THE TOUR IS
AT THE STATE CAPITOL BY THE
LITTLE ROCK NINE STATUE,
562
00:53:09.987 --> 00:53:15.291
STRATEGICALLY LOCATED ACROSS
FROM THE GOVERNOR'S OFFICE
WINDOW.
563
00:53:15.293 --> 00:53:21.197
>> THE GOVERNOR, WHEN HE MADE
THE DECISION TO KEEP THEM OUT,
HE SAT RIGHT THERE.
564
00:53:21.199 --> 00:53:27.603
SO AS GOVERNOR FAUBUS HAD TO
LOOK OUT, HE GOT TO SEE THE
LITTLE ROCK NINE.
565
00:53:27.605 --> 00:53:31.907
THEY HAVE TO SIT IN THAT CHAIR
AND LOOK DOWN AND SEE THE LITTLE
ROCK NINE.
566
00:53:31.909 --> 00:53:40.049
IT REFLECTS NOT ONLY ON ONE
SECTOR OF PEOPLE, BUT ALL
PEOPLE.
567
00:53:40.051 --> 00:53:47.056
AND IT'S A LIFE-SIZE STATUE AND
THERE'S A QUOTE FROM THE LITTLE
ROCK NINE.
568
00:53:47.058 --> 00:53:51.493
THEIR OWN QUOTES AND SOME QUOTED
OTHERS.
569
00:53:51.495 --> 00:54:03.005
>> NEEDLESS TO SAY, THIS IS ONE
BIKE TOUR THAT WILL LEAVE YOU
WITH QUITE AN IMPACT.
570
00:54:03.007 --> 00:54:08.544
>> IMAGINE GOING TO SCHOOL AND
NOBODY WANTS YOU THERE, AND
STILL, THEY'RE BRAVE AND THEY
571
00:54:08.546 --> 00:54:09.812
WENT ANYWAY.
572
00:54:09.814 --> 00:54:11.880
I CANNOT IMAGINE.
573
00:54:11.882 --> 00:54:13.515
>> YEAH.
574
00:54:13.517 --> 00:54:17.386
>> I NEVER EXPERIENCED ANYTHING
LIKE THAT.
575
00:54:17.388 --> 00:54:22.791
>> GIVES THE NATION A VIVID
PORTRAIT OF NINE
AFRICAN-AMERICANS STANDING UP
576
00:54:22.793 --> 00:54:23.926
FOR THEIR RIGHTS.
577
00:54:23.928 --> 00:54:29.565
>> AT THE VISITOR'S CENTER, YOU
CAN LISTEN TO THE LITTLE ROCK
NINE TELLING FIRSTHAND THEIR
578
00:54:29.567 --> 00:54:31.200
STORY.
579
00:54:31.202 --> 00:54:38.307
>> UNLIKE THIS DAY, HERE IS A
WORLD -- [ INAUDIBLE ].
580
00:54:38.309 --> 00:54:45.180
THEY WERE HORRIFIED, BECAUSE
THERE WAS SO MUCH COVERAGE.
581
00:54:45.182 --> 00:54:51.186
EVEN THOUGH WE KNEW THE PEOPLE
WERE CRAZY, WE ALSO KNEW THAT
THEY'D HAVE TO BE REALLY CRAZY
582
00:54:51.188 --> 00:54:53.689
TO SHOW ONE OF US IN PUBLIC.
583
00:54:53.691 --> 00:55:01.697
>> THE STORY OF CENTRAL HIGH IS
AN ONGOING ONE.
584
00:55:01.699 --> 00:55:07.102
AS MINIJEAN PUTS IT, WE ARE
STILL FAR FROM REACHING THE
DREAM OF DR. KING AND NOT JUST
585
00:55:07.104 --> 00:55:09.004
IN THE SOUTH.
586
00:55:09.006 --> 00:55:17.046
>> IN THE SOUTH, IN THE NORTH,
IN THE EAST, IN THE WEST, WE ARE
WALLOWING AGAIN IN IGNORANCE
587
00:55:17.048 --> 00:55:25.587
AND -- SO UNTIL WE DO THAT REAL
EDUCATIONAL PIECE FOR ALL OUR
CHILDREN, WE'RE GOING TO STAY IN
588
00:55:25.589 --> 00:55:28.490
THIS STATE OF SEPARATION.
589
00:55:28.492 --> 00:55:37.066
>> THE PAIN IS VERY MUCH STILL
THERE.
590
00:55:37.068 --> 00:55:41.804
BUT MINIJEAN SAYS SHE'S LEARNED
TO REROUTE IT TO EDUCATE OTHERS.
591
00:55:41.806 --> 00:55:43.605
>> IT'S OKAY TO FEEL THE PAIN.
592
00:55:43.607 --> 00:55:49.611
THAT WAS THE INTENTION IN THE
FIRST PLACE, RIGHT, WAS TO MAKE
US FEEL LESS THAN -- TO HURT OUR
593
00:55:49.613 --> 00:55:50.846
FEELINGS.
594
00:55:50.848 --> 00:55:53.015
TO HURT US PHYSICALLY.
595
00:55:53.017 --> 00:56:01.156
AND SO I CAN TAKE THAT AND SHIFT
IT AND SAY, WHEN WE HURT OTHERS
FOR WHATEVER REASON IT LASTS A
596
00:56:01.158 --> 00:56:03.525
LIFETIME.
597
00:56:03.527 --> 00:56:06.528
SO, YEAH, IT'S -- YEAH.
598
00:56:06.530 --> 00:56:09.898
I DEAL WITH IT.
599
00:56:09.900 --> 00:56:17.906
BUT I UNDERSTAND IT MUCH BETTER
NOW THAN I DID AT THE TIME.
600
00:56:17.908 --> 00:56:23.078
AND THAT'S -- THAT'S THE THING
ABOUT GROWING UP IS THAT IT
BECOMES MANAGEABLE.
601
00:56:23.080 --> 00:56:26.682
SO SOMETIMES I CAN WALK HERE AND
BE JUST NONCHALANT.
602
00:56:26.684 --> 00:56:32.988
OTHER TIMES UNTIL -- IT JUST
COMES AT ME AND I'M JUST BACK
THERE.
603
00:56:32.990 --> 00:56:41.397
SO YEAH, IT'S A LIFE LONG
PROCESS.
604
00:56:41.399 --> 00:56:46.168
>> WE'RE SAYING WE'RE THE BEST.
605
00:56:46.170 --> 00:56:48.270
WE'RE NOT.
606
00:56:48.272 --> 00:56:52.007
AND WE BETTER DO SOMETHING TO
MAKE OURSELVES THE BEST.
607
00:56:52.009 --> 00:56:53.909
AND THAT'S ABOUT EDUCATION.
608
00:56:53.911 --> 00:56:56.044
IN MY OPINION.
609
00:56:56.046 --> 00:57:01.750
AND I THINK ONE OF THE THINGS OF
THE CENTRAL HIGH SCHOOL NATIONAL
HISTORIC SITE IS ABOUT
610
00:57:01.752 --> 00:57:02.918
EDUCATION.
611
00:57:02.920 --> 00:57:09.391
SO THAT'S FOR ALL OF US, THAT'S
STARTING EARLY, THAT'S ABOUT
LEARNING ABOUT NONVIOLENCE.
612
00:57:09.393 --> 00:57:17.099
THAT'S ABOUT LEARNING WHAT THE
COST OF SEGREGATION CAN BE FOR
ALL OUR CHILDREN.
613
00:57:17.101 --> 00:57:21.970
SO IT IS ABOUT EDUCATING
OURSELVES AND OTHERS.
614
00:57:21.972 --> 00:57:35.717
>> SO THERE YOU HAVE IT.
615
00:57:35.719 --> 00:57:37.619
ARKANSAS'S NATIONAL PARKS.
616
00:57:37.621 --> 00:57:40.823
ALONG WITH ALL OF OUR STATE
PARKS THAT'S ICING ON THE CAKE.
617
00:57:40.825 --> 00:57:46.094
GO OUT AND ENJOY THEM, EXPLORE
THEM, CHERISH THEM AND ABOVE
ALL, RESPECT THEM.
618
00:57:46.096 --> 00:57:49.198
OTHERS WILL FOLLOW IN YOUR
FOOTSTEPS.