Dorothee Schumacher kicked off Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin in a big way. To start, hers was the very first show at Berlin’s new venue the Kaufhaus Jandorf; formerly a multilevel department store, the revamped space was left purposefully unfinished perhaps to match the city’s raw, industrial spirit. It was a cool backdrop for Schumacher’s Fall ’17 collection, which signaled a new direction for the designer.

In the past, a Schumacher look typically revolved around one hero piece: a flowing ’70s dress, a great coat, a printed jumpsuit. Fall ’17 was a mash-up by comparison, and offered clues as to how the Dorothee Schumacher customer might actually mix and match these pieces in real life. There were lots of cozy layers, rich textures, and a few zeitgeist-y pieces like stirrup pants and off-the-shoulder coats, which should help to attract a younger clientele. The show’s inventive styling helped to emphasize the wearability—and re-wearability—of those garments. Jackets were twisted backward; dresses were worn over pants; fur shawls were slung to one side. There were also lots of piled-on little extras: jeweled belts, corsets, feather necklaces, and knotted scarves, all loosely inspired by tribal dress. Women who are used to Schumacher’s more straightforward cocktail attire might be in for a surprise, but the ones in today’s audience already seemed smitten with her new, arguably cooler look.