For Part Two of my Last Big Thing, I wanted to make great use of our scuba certifications from Thailand and go down into the deep again. This time it would be off the eastern tip of Borneo. I wanted to go to the world-famous Sipadan site, a volcanic island that drops down to ocean depths of 800 or more meters in a very short distance, but didn’t plan ahead enough to go. Sipadan is now under regulation, and it appears that the best scuba shops don’t get nearly as many permits as some of the shops that are, say, generous to the local government. We wanted to go with Scuba Junkie (no relation to Scuba Junction from Koh Tao) which had a great reputation and a beautiful island resort at a great price – but they couldn’t get us permits for the famous spot. So we dived beautiful Mabul Island instead, and while it may not have had huge pelagics in town it did amaze us with beautiful wildlife! (more…)

As I said in the last post, we each picked one thing to do before the year was over. My pick was going to Borneo! I had heard great things about the island, and after researching it a bit more, three things in particular stood out for me. First, I wanted to see Kuala Lumpur – it is a really big city made famous by the twin Petronas towers. Second, I wanted to scuba dive Sipadan, known as one of the finest sites in the world to dive, with sharks and turtles everywhere. Third, the Kinabatangan River has loads of wildlife that is easily visible because of the palm oil plantations that are slowly removing all the jungle habitat around the river (only 1km on each side is protected). These three things turned out to make a really great Malaysian adventure! (more…)

We stayed for two nights and had two full days playing with the elephants. Each of us was assigned an elephant and a mahout (elephant trainer) to work with and we were with the same one the whole time we were there. Justin’s elephant was called Wannalee and mine was Sri Siam. (more…)

Justin had planned an awesome elephant adventure for my birthday, but since it started the day after my actual birthday we needed something to do on the day. The solution was to do another Thai cooking class! This time in Chiang Mai, a town in northern Thailand. We found one that looked good on the internet and would highly recommend it as the class and the food was AMAZING! The school is Thai Farm Cooking School.

Choosing our recipes to learn

They had a great system – they picked us up in the morning and handed out menu selection paper. We each got to select five courses and each course had three choices of dish to cook. We tried to pick different dishes so that we would have the widest selection we could make in the future.

While we were in Vietnam, Hazel had a realization – we weren’t having that much fun anymore!

You can think whatever you want, but it turns out that after 9 months being a tourist just isn’t that easy to do. You start to want to just hole up in a single place, do nothing, see nothing, and relax. Hazel, being an excellent problem solver, came up with a solution to our problems – we’d just plan every day to the end of the trip, and that way we would have all the great bits about being travelling (seeing other cultures and landscapes, experiencing food and drink traditions, etc) without all the work. So the goal was to have plans set for the remaining 77 days of our trip.

Organized!

It turns out that planning 77 days is no picnic! To get organized, we do what we always do – make a Google Doc! We have a spreadsheet where each row is a day and it details where we’re sleeping, what we’re doing, and how we’re travelling if we have any plans. Days where the accommodation is not figured out are marked in red, and successful days we’ve already had get marked in green. At first we had a lot of red, so Hazel and I each picked one big idea, and worked our hardest to make it happen. I wanted to scuba dive at another world-class location, and Hazel chose to walk the Overland Track in Tasmania.

Figuring this out was great for us. We saw exactly how it would happen, and even figured out how to make it to the Melbourne Lindy Exchange in Australia after going on the track. So we rang up Qantas and changed our flights around to give us a lot more time in Oz, a lot less time in Thailand, and a lot more time in Singapore. Though it took forever to get booked, we ended up with a schedule that we knew would work and could concentrate on doing stuff we wanted to do instead of stuff we thought we ought to do. Sweet As!

I had decided, before we arrived, that the main purpose of my trip to Vietnam would be to sample as much local food as humanly possible, and to learn to cook some of it! Even though our trip was a whirlwind, I am confident that I succeeded in my goal. (more…)

Our time in Vietnam was a bit of a blur as we only had one week and we spent all night every other night travelling. Unfortunately, this left us a bit exhausted and I really wish we had had a lot more time to enjoy this amazing country. I cannot say enough good things about our time in Vietnam. The people were awesome, the food was awesome, the scenery was awesome…all in all, awesome.

So, this post will probably feel a little crazy, but I’m just going to throw a bunch of photos of the places we went at you, and maybe the crazy rush along the country will come through. We started in the south in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and worked our way north by a series of long bus and train trips, ending up in Hanoi. If we had just a little more time I would have liked to see more of Hanoi. If we had a lot I would have been very happy to just keep exploring and to make many more stops along the way.

So after we finished seeing temples in Cambodia, we didn’t want to deal with another border like the last one we dealt with. So we flew to Vietnam, the land of delicious food and a really long coastline! In fact, it was so long that we spent about half our time travelling!

We ended up not being so happy about this, but c’est la vie. We used a number of different modes of transportation – trains, planes AND automobiles! Our favorite was the train, where we took a first class sleeper car from Da Nang to Hanoi. There were four people in the cabin and nice comfy beds to sleep in, along with air conditioning (though the weather was pretty mild anyway). We’ve found that trains gently rock you to sleep whereas planes and cars don’t have nearly the same relaxing feel to them.

Our least favorite mode of transportation was the bus. We took two overnight buses in Vietnam, and one was definitely better than the other but they are both suboptimal when it comes to rest quality.

Sleeper Bus Vietnam Style

At first it seems really cool! Everyone (almost) gets their own bed, separated from the others, and there’s a bathroom on board. But the truth comes a little later when the reality of Vietnamese roads sets in – the driver is going crazily fast, causing you to float out of your bed on occasion, and he doesn’t hesitate to use his really loud horn (at all hours of the night) to warn other drivers of the speeding bullet hurtling down the road at completely unsafe speeds.

Then you find that your second overnight bus has no bathroom and that you are shoved into a communal platform-bed with 4 other travellers in the back of the bus where it’s even more bumpy. At that point you become convinced that the train is worth the extra cost!

The plane was pretty much as expected. It was convenient, reasonably comfortable, and most importantly it was fast! The only downside is that airports tend to be really far from the downtown areas of town. But if you have the cash, this is the way to go!

In between all of our temple watching we had a chance to explore the town of Siem Reap. We were extremely lucky because the town had suffered from some serious flooding the week before we arrived. It was bad enough that a couple of people died and there were still sand bags and lots of water about when we got there.

Flooded street - right outside our hostel!

The city and our hostel (Rosy Guest House) were drying out and recovering from all of the water. It didn’t affect us too much though and we considered ourselves really lucky to have decent weather for temple viewing.

Siem Reap is a pretty touristy place. There are lots of good restaurants (a good thing), but lots of people hassling you to buy stuff (and they are PUSHY here). Honestly, it got pretty tiring constantly being shouted at to buy things.

The second day we hired a different tuk-tuk (our first driver was a bit pushy and upsold us a little too much) and went to the famous Ta Phromh which is a temple that’s been left in its semi-ruined state. Trees are growing literally out of the walls! It is pretty cool and very atmospheric (and part of Tomb Raider was filmed here).