Part II: How to Shop for Food in Portugal

Can you believe that in the 4+ years that I’ve lived here, I’ve only started cooking Portuguese dishes at home in the last year? I kept telling myself it’s best I leave the Portuguese cooking to the experts- meaning the mothers and grandmothers of people I know and all the other little ladies who work in the local restaurants consistently turning out delicious food. What I finally realized, however, is these very same women aren’t using any expensive, exotic ingredients or complicated cooking techniques. The beauty of Portuguese cuisine is how well they make use of the abundant local fresh ingredients readily available to them: this includes not only locally sourced fruit, vegetables and livestock, but also the vast diversity of fresh fish from the country’s expansive coastline. And with such straightforward methods for preparing dishes, such as one-pot meals and simple grilled meat and fish, they make it easy for newcomers to successfully prepare delicious meals right at home.

In my last article on Shopping for Food in Portugal, I talked about where to shop for the best produce in Portugal – Lisbon specifically – and highlighted the ample fresh fruit available here during the summer months. Now, as the seasons change and it starts to become cooler, extended-stay vacationers may be more inclined to do a bit more cooking on their own on a nice, breezy fall evening, using Portuguese fish or meat.

So how does one shop in Portugal for the best fish and meat? Your best bet for fresh fish is to get up early and head to one of mercados (open markets), where you can also find talhos (butcher shops) for quality meat. There are open markets all over the city, however the ones closer to the downtown, such as Mercado da Ribeira and Mercado de Campo de Ourique, are relatively weak nowadays. Therefore, Saturdays, it’s better to go up into the backbone of city for the higher quality markets. Some of the best markets in Lisbon are Mercado de Benfica (#758 Bus),Mercado de Alvalade (Alvalade Metro Stop)Mercado de Arroios(Alameda Metro stop) andMercado 31 de Janeiro (Saldanha or Picoas Metro stops). Plan on cooking your fish dishes between Tuesday and Saturday, when the market is open, and opt for doing meat dishes on Sundays and Mondays. Then again, you may want to buy all of your meat on Saturday because most butcher shops are closed on Sundays and Mondays as well. If you’re not a planner, no worries, you can buy straight from the butcher at the supermarket. I don’t suggest picking up pre-packaged meat, however, as it’s far from fresh.

I’ve talked about the types of Portuguese fish in “Peixe In Portugal: The Numerous and Delicious Varieties of Portuguese Fish” and how to find the best deals in my “Interview with Portuguese Fisherman Carlos Manuel” but the majority of those fish, such as sardinhas (sardines), robalo (sea bass) and dourada (gilt-head bream) are usually grilled over hot coals, which is great if you have an outdoor area where you’re staying but really, really smelly and smokey if done inside. However, the latter two white fish are also commonly roasted in the oven at home, thus avoiding the lingering of a strong fishy smell. They both use the same mixture of ingredients: alho (garlic), cebola (onions), tomate (tomatoes) or polpa de tomate (tomato puree), louro (Bay leaf), salsa (parsley) and/or coentros (cilantro) thrown together in a roasting pan with the fish seasoned with sal e pimenta (salt and pepper) and drizzled with a healthy amount of azeite (olive oil) and vinho branco (white wine) then roasted whole in the oven with batatas (potatoes) for about 45 minutes. With these same ingredients, plus some green and red bell pepper, you can make another tasty Portuguese fish dish: Arroz de Tamboril, or Monkfish stewed with rice. You can find whole fresh tamboril in any market, just ask the fish monger to “corte em pedaços faz favor” or “cut into pieces please”. And don’t disregard the liver because monkfish liver is highly prized and gives a lot of flavor to the rice! Many people also add clams and shrimp or shellfish to the dish, see below for the recipe.

When it comes to meat, you can basically find any cut, limb or innard available. Most talhos carry a good quantity of carne de porco (pork), carne de vaca (beef) or novilho (lean beef or veal), frango e galinha (chicken and the fattier hen), coelho (rabbit) and a smaller quantity of peru (turkey) and borrego (lamb). During game season, and the Christmas holidays, you can typically stumble onto cordoniz (quail) and cabrito (young goat) for pre-order. Pato (duck) tends to only be sold fresh at butchers specializing in poultry (aves). The great element about simple meat seasoning in Portuguese cuisine is that you only need to use the same three ingredients: sea salt, sliced garlic and fresh lemon juice. Buy any type of bife (steak or cutlet), costeleta (chop) entremeada (pork belly/fatty ribs)or febras (poor man’s cut of steak), then marinate the for at least 30 minutes in those very ingredients followed by a quick grill or sauté and you’ve created a slice of heaven. But for the more curious eater, try cooking rabbit, as it’s very common in Portugal and best of all they are not at all like incredibly tough wild rabbit meat most people know (which is called lebre here), but actually much smaller and tenderer. They come whole with the head on by law, to ensure no one is pawning them off for a cat. For easy handling at home, the butcher can chop the meat into chunks, adding the head and organs within the package – perfect for a savory and flavorful addition to sauces, or saute up the liver on its own. Then, one of the easiest ways to prepare it is to mix the pieces in a large pot with sea salt, sliced onions, garlic, bay leaf, olive oil and either white wine or red wine. Simmer with the lid on for about 45 minutes to an hour or until the meat starts to fall off the bone. Add a handful of fresh parsley to mix at the end and serve over rice. It should be absolutely tender and delicious! For a list of all the typical cuts and parts of meat, see the list below.

While you’re at the butcher, please don’t forget to pick up some the wide variety of Portuguese sausage! I’ve mentioned some of my favorites like alheira as one of my “10 Delicious Reasons Why You Should Visit Portugal” , but there are plenty of other scrumptious ones you can always find at the butcher, such as: linguiça- small, thin fresh or cured sausages that are great as a petisco (snack). Roasted on a traditional assador chouriço – a ceramic roaster typically shaped as a pig that you fill the bottom with alcohol or aguardenteand lite – until crispy and oozing with delicious meat juice. Some other fabulous Portuguese sausage include: morçela, a typical cured, dark blood sausage made with or without rice and farinheira, a very soft sausage made mostly from pork fat and farinha-flour along with a mix of blended red bell pepper, paprika and wine . One of the most popular Portuguese dishes, Cozido á Portuguesa, is made with these latter two sausages, along with all the other undesirable pork parts, cabbage, collard greens, turnips, carrots, potatoes, rice, beans, pretty much anything you can throw in! So I challenge you, if you’re staying in Lisbon with a group of people and want to really be adventurous in Portuguese cuisine, try making a big pot of Cozido using your new-found knowledge of buying fresh produce and meat here in Portugal, I guarantee if you follow the guidelines it will be a delicious meal for you! I’ve even provided a solid recipe below with a link to a step by step video guide of it so you have no excuse. And if you decide to do this challenge we’d love to hear how it turned out and see a photo of your hard work! Whatever you decide cook with your fresh purchases, we hope you thoroughly enjoy what Portuguese cuisine has to offer!

1 Chouriço de Carne (another normal cured sausage, made with more meat, also called Chouriço Extra)

1 Chouriço de Sangue (soft, fresh blood sausage)

2 Farinheiras (soft sausage made from pork fat and flour)

1 Morcela de Arroz (cured blood sausage with rice, not soft)

1800g de Couve Lombarda (regular green cabbage)

800g de Couve Portuguesa (collard greens)

2 Nabos (turnips), quartered

4 Batatas (potatoes) halved

4 Cenouras (carrots) quartered

300g de Arroz (rice)

1 Cubo de Caldo de Carne (beef bouillon cubes, you can get this at any grocer or supermarket)

1 Cubo de Caldo de Galinha (chicken bouillon cubes, same as above)

1 Cubo de Caldo de Legumes (vegetable bouillon cubes, same as above)

Sal Grosso q.b. (coarse sea salt)

Cravinho q.b. (whole cloves, about 4-5)

1 Lata de Feijão Branco Cozido (canned white beans, you can get this at any grocer or supermarket)

Preparação:

Fill a large pot with water, add all three bouillon cubes, salt, cloves and the chouriço corrente. Bring to a boil.

Wash the meats. Add the stewing beef, entremeada, chispe, orelha and chouriço de carne to the pot, let it boil until the meat is cooked- the orelha and the stewed beef will take the longest.

Wash the vegetables. After the meat is cooked, remove it from the pot and set aside. Add the cabbage and the collard greens and let it boil for about 5 minutes. Add the morcela de arroz, turnips and carrots, let it boil for about 5 minutes.

Once the vegetables have boiled, in a separate pot with the rice, ladle enough cooking liquid from the large pot into the rice to cook, let the rice boil in this liquid until done. Add the potatoes to the large pot of cooked vegetables, prick the farinheiras and the rest of the chouriços with a toothpick several times then add to the pot to boil. After 4 minutes, remove the chouriço de sangue from the pot, set aside.

Ladle a bit more of the cooking liquid from the large pot to a third pot with the white beans, let it boil up just until heated.

Once everything is all cooked, cut up all of the meat and sausage and serve on a tray, along with a separate tray of the vegetables.

1 cubo caldo de peixe- fish bouillon cube (you can buy these at a supermarket or grocery)

Olive oil

1/2 cup white wine

400g or a little over 3/4 pound of clams

12 shrimp (frozen or fresh, larger shrimp are not from Portugal, only small ones)

380g or about 3/4 pound of rice

1 liter of water

1 bunch of chopped fresh cilantro

Salt

Pepper

Preparation:

In a large pot, heat the olive oil and saute the onion, garlic, bell peppers and Bay leaf until translucent, stirring, about 5 minutes.

Add the tomatoes and let it cook another 5 minutes. Once the vegetables are tender, add the monkfish and season with salt and pepper. Add the caldo de peixe and pour the white wine over it all, let it come to a boil.

Once boiling, turn the pieces of monkfish over and let it cook another 5 minutes. Add the liter of water and let it come to a boil again.

Once boiling, add the rice. Let it cook for about 10 minutes.

Add the shrimp and the clams and let it cook another 7 minutes.

Once everything is cooked and all the clams have opened, turn off the heat and add the chopped cilantro, mix it up and serve.

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This team is first class, they are knowledgeable of all areas of wine, and the Douro. If you are looking for something to do when in Porto I cant recommend their tours enough - first class.
Many places here say they offer the authentic version of Porto, but rarely do - these tours go into places that others don't, they bust the myths of wine, Port and give you the real insights, show you the faces behind the wine.
The tours offered here give you something that is unique, filled with passion and love for this wonderful city and surrounding areas.

Anita Breland

13:51 19 Sep 17

Looking to enjoy a great excursion through some of the world's most beautiful vineyards? Our group's tour off the beaten path with Catavino was a carefree day of discovery in fine company, and with memorable food and wine. A big plus was an opportunity to spend time with a winemaker happy to share his family story, expertise and excellent wine. I cannot think of a better way to experience the authentic Douro!

Cornell Anderson

11:23 04 Oct 17

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

Julie Dawn Fox

14:18 21 Sep 17

Just spent a wonderful day in the Douro wine region with the Catavino team and a local winemaker. We had breathtaking views of a side of the Douro that most visitors don't get to see, knowledgeable explanations of the grapes, wines and processes and of course, delicious table and port wines, some poured straight from the barrel. The highlight of the day was the chance to join the Purple Foot Club by treading grapes in stone tanks.

Flavio Bastos Amiel

09:53 19 Sep 17

Yesterday we had the chance to visit a few places in the Douro with Catavino. We had the chance to meet one very young producer (Oscar Quevedo: thanks!) who did a complete tour through one of his vineyards and educated us on the different types of grapes the Douro has to offer and how the wine in this winery is made. The highlight was a great food experience in the winery while staring at the amazing Douro landscape, while sipping whites, red and port wine from the same house. Thanks!!

Tom Fakler

09:26 15 Nov 17

Outstanding day trip from Porto with Catavino!
We spent a day off the beaten path in the Douro wine region and its spectacular scenery. We visited a winery where the vintner gave us the most authentic and informative tour of the vineyards and wine cellar we have had. We tasted this year’s new wine and port from a 10,000-liter cask. We had a gourmet lunch with wines perfectly paired.
Our tour was in the harvest season and we were able to participate in the traditional stomping of grapes in a granite lagar. It was a fun time for all!
Catavino and team know the area and vintners well, and this made our day truly special.

David Waldschmidt

15:35 15 Oct 17

My wife and I had a first rate experience touring the wine country in Portugal. Catavino Tours organized the trip for us and friends. The tour was organized down to the most specific details permitting us an experience unencumbered with worry or stress. Best of all, Catavino is extremely well versed in the wine business, the wine country and the people behind the wineries. As a result, we were treated to experiences and face to face interactions that we would never have had on our own or with someone less tied into the art of making wine.

Penedes Wine Tour

About Andrea Smith

Andrea moved to Campo de Ourique, Lisbon, in early 2008 with a dream to work and learn more about Portuguese wine. Born in Northern Virginia in 1983, Andrea's Italian family taught her the importance of pairing fresh food with great wine, eventually motivating her to graduate from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), where she earned an Associates and Bachelor's degree in Culinary Arts and Business Management, as well as her Introductory Certificate from the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2004. Andrea uses her love of culture, gastronomy and language to research the hidden recipes and wines of Portugal.

Facebook reviews

What an amazing trip with a fantastic group of people. It was an education about wine we couldn't have experienced anywhere else. Our guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgable and brought great enthusiasm to the experience.read more

Fantastic tour of the Portugal wine country organized and conducted by the Catavino team. Echoing the comments of the previous reviews below, my wife and I experienced one memorable experience topped each day by the next memorable experience. A week of friendship, learning and interacting all in an environment that was stimulating and stress free. Kudos to Catavino for a wonderful and supremely well organized trip.read more

Having recently completed Catavino's 2017 Custom Harvest Tour, I am still basking in the afterglow of a full week of cushy hotels, beautiful landscapes, long, succulent dinners highlighting the depth of Portuguese cuisine, and, of course, the spectacular wines from the best regions of Portugal. Catavino has crafted a harvest experience that uniquely capitalizes on Ryan's personal relationships with some of Portugal's preeminent winemakers. This allows us into their cellars for intimate tastings and onto their terraces for wonderful lunches personally hosted by the owners and winemakers. It is a wonderful learning experience for novices and wine geeks alike. Ryan is a great host, and his knowledge and insights add immensely to the experience. This was my second Harvest Tour with Catavino and they continue to deliver a very satisfying week of Portuguese culture, food and wine. A short review can't do justice to a week long trip. I highly recommend that you sign on to one of their trips and find out for yourself!read more

Our Fall Harvest trip through the Douro valley led by Ryan Opaz and organized by the talented team at Catavino was truly a once in a lifetime experience (well maybe twice)! This was an ongoing visual and sensory experience from start to finish with several “pinch yourself” moments along the way. Like most learning experiences I feel like I’ve retained a fraction of what I learned about the wines and cuisine or Portugal. I guess that’s a reason to do it againread more

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!read more

The Catavino team is world class. A tour with them is guaranteed to be something that you won't forget.
They show you a true picture of what goes on, busting myths about the wine and port industry to show you the real side of Douro. Their level of knowledge is incredible, and we had access to wine tasting, grape stomping and meet the faces behind the wine industry. I can't even begin to describe the amazing lunch at the farm, overlooking the most spectacular views that only the Douro provides - breath taking!!
It is guaranteed to be filled with passion and love, leaving you with a yearning to come back time and time again.
Can't recommend this enough.read more

My husband and I had a wonderful day on a private tour with Ryan throughout the Douro Valley. He is extremely knowledgeable and helped us learn to appreciate Port. Beyond the wonderful private tasting sessions, he also brought us to a delicious lunch at a local Portuguese restaurant. Throughout the entire day, he provided us with tips and recommendations for the remainder of our journey throughout Portugal. The whole day was the highlight of our trip! We would HIGHLY recommend it!read more

Incredible experience in a beautiful city. Mariana was an amazing guide - we learned so much, sampled some amazing food, and had fun doing it. Two couples were with our 15- and 17-month-old boys and we never felt rushed or out of place. Highly recommend!read more

Ana arranged a trip for my client through Portugal. My client is a single woman traveling alone and she had the time of her life! I felt very good about having her in Catavino's hands. Thank you for introducing her to Portugal in such a wonderful manner.read more

I can only second the comments written here. Catavino is highly professional and will stop at nothing to give you an incredible, unforgettable time. All the biggest highlights from my recent trip to Portugal and Spain were made possible by Catavino. I know how much work goes into it- thank you so much Ryan and team. I'd trust you with my holidays any time.read more

We were part of the 2016 Harvest Tour and had the experience of a lifetime! The Douro Valley is breathtakingly beautiful and our guides were wonderful. Ryan and Gabriella must have called in all of their personal favors because we met and drank wine with many winemakers, a wine shop owner and tasted '72 port which Oscar Quevedo's grandfather had made. Doesn't get any more special than that! Of course, gourmet food at every meal as well. We'll be back!!read more

When there were hiccups in the itinerary; Catavino was nothing but gracious. They understood what our visit meant to us & offered us fantastic guides & activities. We ooh'ed & aah'ed, ate & drank almost too well (!) & we laughed for days. Deep thanks.read more

No enough words, even for a wordsmith like me, to say how wonderful it was spending time with Gabriella and Ryan. Our tour with Ryan as our guide to the Douro Valley was spectacular. Excellent wines, wonderful views, terrific people and a delightful lunch topped off with a lovely boat ride. Highly recommended!!read more

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Google Reviews

This team is first class, they are knowledgeable of all areas of wine, and the Douro. If you are looking for something to do when in Porto I cant recommend their tours enough - first class.
Many places here say they offer the authentic version of Porto, but rarely do - these tours go into places that others don't, they bust the myths of wine, Port and give you the real insights, show you the faces behind the wine.
The tours offered here give you something that is unique, filled with passion and love for this wonderful city and surrounding areas.

Anita Breland

13:51 19 Sep 17

Looking to enjoy a great excursion through some of the world's most beautiful vineyards? Our group's tour off the beaten path with Catavino was a carefree day of discovery in fine company, and with memorable food and wine. A big plus was an opportunity to spend time with a winemaker happy to share his family story, expertise and excellent wine. I cannot think of a better way to experience the authentic Douro!

Cornell Anderson

11:23 04 Oct 17

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

Julie Dawn Fox

14:18 21 Sep 17

Just spent a wonderful day in the Douro wine region with the Catavino team and a local winemaker. We had breathtaking views of a side of the Douro that most visitors don't get to see, knowledgeable explanations of the grapes, wines and processes and of course, delicious table and port wines, some poured straight from the barrel. The highlight of the day was the chance to join the Purple Foot Club by treading grapes in stone tanks.

Flavio Bastos Amiel

09:53 19 Sep 17

Yesterday we had the chance to visit a few places in the Douro with Catavino. We had the chance to meet one very young producer (Oscar Quevedo: thanks!) who did a complete tour through one of his vineyards and educated us on the different types of grapes the Douro has to offer and how the wine in this winery is made. The highlight was a great food experience in the winery while staring at the amazing Douro landscape, while sipping whites, red and port wine from the same house. Thanks!!

Tom Fakler

09:26 15 Nov 17

Outstanding day trip from Porto with Catavino!
We spent a day off the beaten path in the Douro wine region and its spectacular scenery. We visited a winery where the vintner gave us the most authentic and informative tour of the vineyards and wine cellar we have had. We tasted this year’s new wine and port from a 10,000-liter cask. We had a gourmet lunch with wines perfectly paired.
Our tour was in the harvest season and we were able to participate in the traditional stomping of grapes in a granite lagar. It was a fun time for all!
Catavino and team know the area and vintners well, and this made our day truly special.

David Waldschmidt

15:35 15 Oct 17

My wife and I had a first rate experience touring the wine country in Portugal. Catavino Tours organized the trip for us and friends. The tour was organized down to the most specific details permitting us an experience unencumbered with worry or stress. Best of all, Catavino is extremely well versed in the wine business, the wine country and the people behind the wineries. As a result, we were treated to experiences and face to face interactions that we would never have had on our own or with someone less tied into the art of making wine.