We will travel through the historic town of Acenceh to Chunkanan where the paved roads will end and even the villages become scarce; then we’ll make the final leg of our journey on an old narrow gauge rail line. And there won’t be a fancy locomotive waiting for us, a horse is the best we can hope for.

After a visit to the Cenotes south of Chunkanan, we will make a side trip to Homun, where there is a spectacular Cenote just on the edge of town.

A couple of thoughts. I've stayed at the Gran Hotel in Merida and it was a great place to stay. Excellent location for walking to most places.

One thing that struck me (compared to other Mexican cities), notice how clean the streets are and the incredible iron work all over on the medians and around the city square. It's always straight and looks freshly painted. Incredible pride in this city.

One more thing: Does anyone know if Pollo Pibil is similar in taste to Chicken Paprikas?

Regarding the food. The Yucatecan cochinita dishes use a Seville (sour) orange based sauce, while the mole dishes use a chocolate based sauce. (but don’t expect a simple orange or chocolate taste in either of the dishes; the sauces are more complex than that.)

I’ll try to get the next batch of pictures up this afternoon, they not appear until the evening; but they will appear.

Regarding the food. The Yucatecan cochinita dishes use a Seville (sour) orange based sauce, while the mole dishes use a chocolate based sauce. (but don’t expect a simple orange or chocolate taste in either of the dishes; the sauces are more complex than that.)

Michael, I think there are a lot of culinary "wannabees" out there. You are helping . I LOVE the regional cooking...

One more thing: Does anyone know if Pollo Pibil is similar in taste to Chicken Paprikas?

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I don't think so...no paprika...is it the same as chicken in mole (chocolate based) sauce? Anyone?

Does anyone know of an authentic Mayan dinner that uses paprika or tastes like Chicken Paprikas?

I had some in Merida or in a resaurant by Chichen Itza that was incredible, but I never got the name of it. I am Hungarian (US Citizen) and it certainly seemed like paprika, however it may have been something else. (Maybe I had a few beers before we had dinner and I didn't remember very well)

I don't think so...no paprika...is it the same as chicken in mole (chocolate based) sauce? Anyone?

It is not paprika. What is used is a spice called achiote which in the US is known as annatto. You can find achiote in the form of powder or paste. The paste has garlic, pepper and some other spices that I cannot recall. I bought a box of achiote paste that has a recipe for cochinita pibil. Instead of the seville orange juice which Michael mentioned, lemon juice is used in the recipe. I used this recipe, and it came out pretty good, but the recipes that use the seville juice are better.

Michael, Thank you very much for your trip report. Your pictures are wonderful! Now, I want to go to Merida. Hurray for Rosa giving them hell at customs. They can be some real sinvergüenzas (shameless individuals).

It is not paprika. What is used is a spice called achiote which in the US is known as annatto. You can find achiote in the form of powder or paste. The paste has garlic, pepper and some other spices that I cannot recall. I bought a box of achiote paste that has a recipe for cochinita pibil. Instead of the seville orange juice which Michael mentioned, lemon juice is used in the recipe. I used this recipe, and it came out pretty good, but the recipes that use the seville juice are better.

Michael, Thank you very much for your trip report. Your pictures are wonderful! Now, I want to go to Merida. Hurray for Rosa giving them hell at customs. They can be some real sinvergüenzas (shameless individuals).

Alicia

Sol,
Thanks for the insight on this. So my guess is that the Pollo Pibil is what I had, because it did have the depth of the garlic, etc. that you don't find in Chicken Parikas.
Thanks again!

The first stop was Ancanceh. Somewhat well known because of its pyramid in the middle of town. Before the Spanish arrived, this was of-course the norm. After the Spanish conquest most of the pyramids were completely or partially destroyed. And while the pyramid at Ancanceh has been scavenged for stones and most of the stucco has gone, it is still an impressive sight.

The other impressive sight on that day were the swarms of Langostas. This was not a shell fish dining experience. But plagues of locusts that sweep through the countryside around Merida during December.

Look at the sky in the picture, those dots are not the result of dirty camera lens. These locusts poured out of the sky dropping onto the car and the streets like a dirty green hail storm.

An Ancanceh resident defends his fruit tree from the locusts.

And as soon as our photographs were taken, the locusts took off into the sky and disappeared over the horizon as one big dark cloud.

As we pull out of Ancenceh, my brother in-law asks if we wanted to see a special church. I can hardly pass one of these old Franciscan buildings without stopping to take a picture. “Sure” I reply, "lets go".

While I thought I had a good idea of what we were going to see that day, I really had no clue of what was ahead of us.

Wonderful. Michael!
I loved our short visit to Merida, especially since I collect (photos and/or memories of) doors and windows! Yours are beautiful.
And now I'm eagerly awaiting the next astonishing installment!