I'm 33. Had my 180 for 10 years, try to get it out every month to keep it in decent running condition. I've not got the funds to do the things I want to do properly atm so its a project in waiting
I cant sell it for some unknown sentimental reasons. My theory is if I sell it now I'll only want to buy another one down the track, then have trouble with trying to find a stockish one for rego or playing the queensland tranport/modified car game. So i just keep paying rego and avoiding police.
Daily drive an fg turbo ute. Far less stressful.

Had the same thing happen on my Honda Prelude. Got a new pulley and that almost came off too, so I eventually had to run some locktite on the threads.
Luckily I had a spare engine at the time so I just dropped that in. Not before I bought a new pulley without checking the crank though.

I found the front mail seal leaking on my 180 not long after buying it. I removed the crank pulley bolt with my fingers then pulled the balancer off with one hand, and I'm just a regular guy.
I imagine it wouldn't have been pretty had it come off whilst driving. As it was the keyway in the crank was toast.

Hello peoples I'm in need of help. Long story but here goes.
I recently had my engine and box out changing clutch and changing a few hoses. When I put it all back together and got it running again it idles and runs like normal off boost but feels choked on boost. Usually run 18psi but will only manage 10 regardless of weather the ebc is set to high/low or off, and even then will barely chirp 1st. Thing is it doesn't stutter or misfire or show any abnormal signs of smoke and will rev to 7000+ smoothly. I think its running a little rich(haven't pulled plugs to confirm) because it crackles on decel where it didn't before. It feels like retarded timing.
Car is a 180sx with a basic ol sr running a nistune, nismo 740's, z32, T518z and easy cams.
Things I've done/checked.
-Had basic service, plugs, oils, air and fuel filters. Fresh tank and some injector cleaner.
-Went over intercooler and pipes numerous times, no rags, no damage. Made a rig and pumped 20+psi into it, no leaks.
-Dropped and checked each section of exhaust individually, all clear. Drove it with dump only to be certain. Same shit.
-I sort of discounted the turbo because of the no smoke, no excessive shaft play and the fact it still makes boost. I did however wire the wastegate shut which resulted in 18psi but still no power.
-Ran diagnostic check. 55 all clear.
-Ran a few voltage checks, solid 14+ at pump and battery.
I haven't tested TPS, AFM, knock sensor, fuel pressure or coil packs because I can't really see any of their symptoms in my problem, being that it idles and runs smooth and doesn't misfire or stutter. I could be missing something here though.
I did blow the 80amp starter fuse when I had clutch dramas trying to bump start it in 2nd. I also had to replace my engine to chassis earth because of this.
Now I'm wondering could that electrical spike have messed with the nistune in some way? Keeping in mind it still idles perfect with 740's and cams.
I'm just searching for any suggestions or help on something I may have missed before I take it to someone with a dyno.
Thanks.

Good to know. I fitted some a few years ago now and havent had any dramas, all torqued up fine studs In saying that im only making about 220kw atw so not exactly stressing it. I didn't realise people considered the studs not bottoming out as a problem being that i've rebuilt a few diesel engines where they dont bottom out. The tension is on the threads as they stretch so in theory as long as your more than 3 theads deep you should be seeing maximum strength. But hey ive been wrong in the past. Would defs get a performance engine builders advice if i was building a serious engine.