Meandro Do Vale Meao, Douro 2009, $29.99.

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The divide in the wine world is often broken down into Old World vs. New World wines. This broadly refers to wines that are more terroir driven (“sense of place,” earthy, not as fruit forward) and wines that are dominated by ripe fruit. The dry red wines of Portugal are certainly Old World wines but have fruit and ripeness combined with great acidity, earthiness and astounding value for the quality of wine in the bottle.

Until very recently when thinking of wine from Portugal, Port was the only experience most of us had. But in the past few decades, winemakers began making dry wines from the many indigenous grapes that potentially make up the blend in Port (up to 40 varietals, with five noble varietals usually making up the bulk of the blends). Portuguese wines have seen a dramatic shift in quality, both red and white, but as we enter the holidays it’s the reds that I focus on for drinking by the fire.

Callabriga, Dao 2009 — Callabriga is a concept wine from Sogrape that has three different wines from three different regions in Portugal — Dao, Douro and Alentejo. All offer excellent value. The Dao is primarily Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) and shows bright raspberry, cherry, juniper and white pepper on the nose. Medium bodied with bright red fruit in the midpalate and dusty earth notes.

Vale Do Bomfim, Douro 2009 — A great value blend from the Douro. Rich black fruit, plum with a mint edge and wet earthy midpalate. Full bodied, nice finish.

Meandro Do Vale Meao, Douro 2009 — The second wine of the famous Quinta do Vale Meao. A “second wine” is usually wine made from younger vines or barrels of wine deemed not worthy of the premier offering of the estate. Second and third wines became commercially popular with the Classified Growth estates in Bordeaux. Meandro Do Vale Meao offers smoky red fruit, black plum and peppery spice both on the nose and the palate with nice earth notes. Great balance and a long lingering finish.

Quinto do Crasto Reserva, Douro 2009 — A splurge wine, but the quality of this wine makes it a relative bargain. From very old vines, this wine is rich, with black plum, black cherry, very full bodied but with elegant structure and tannins. With a long, gorgeous finish, this deserves a place on a holiday table (or hidden in the kitchen for the host to enjoy while more modest offerings are on the table). I recommend decanting it a couple of hours before consumption, or having a glass the night before, recorking it and retasting the next morning. Holiday drinking is best started early.