Hybrids no-handed?

I find that riding my hybrid is much harder (impossible at the moment) for me to ride no-handed than my road bike ever was. Is this other people's experience as well? Is it the "slack geometry" perhaps? (Note: besides head tube angle I don't actually know what slack geometry refers to.)

My Trek 7.5 FX frame & fork - now fully customized component-wise - doesn't like to be ridden no hands. It's very skittish - just a slight touch will have turn 90-degrees. My PUCH has tight racing-geometry and also doesn't much care for no hands. But my 3-speed eats it up.

It's the opposite for me: very easy on the (comfort) hybrid and more difficult on the squirrelly hybridized road bike.

That which does not kill me has made a massive tactical blunder.
Too often I would hear men boast of the miles covered that day, rarely of what they had seen. Louis L'Amour
'07 Giant Cypress WSD "Radagast the Beige-and-Black" * '97 (?) Bianchi Premio "Orion" * '09 Trek Allant "The Black Pearl"

Part of the problem can be poor frame alignment or incorrect dish on one wheel so they do not run in line. I am always amazed to see how the pros can ride no handed while removing or putting on clothing etc.

My Marin Mill Valley has every handling quirk in the book. I can ride it no handed, but the front wheel might start to oscillate wildly side to side at a very high frequency, the whole frame gets into it. Crazily shuddering until I squeeze the top tube between my legs. If I'm really smooth and don't lean too far back, I can keep it from happening, but general avoid no handed riding on that bike. That freaks me out even when I do it on purpose. It's out of control.

On my other hybrid and my mtb, I find leaning back makes riding no handed easier, contrary to what Wanderer suggests, though his point about an unweighted front end would explain at least partially, the shimmy I experience with the Marin. I suppose a well aligned frame and well built wheels would be most important factors, after that, the ideal fore aft position may vary.

Part of the problem can be poor frame alignment or incorrect dish on one wheel so they do not run in line. I am always amazed to see how the pros can ride no handed while removing or putting on clothing etc.

In the middle of a huge peloton rolling along at 40kph!? Inches from several other riders.

In the middle of a huge peloton rolling along at 40kph!? Inches from several other riders

The Blue Angels of cycling.

That which does not kill me has made a massive tactical blunder.
Too often I would hear men boast of the miles covered that day, rarely of what they had seen. Louis L'Amour
'07 Giant Cypress WSD "Radagast the Beige-and-Black" * '97 (?) Bianchi Premio "Orion" * '09 Trek Allant "The Black Pearl"

Interesting responses. I've been thinking that it's actually too *easy* to turn; I have the same problem as the above poster that it seems to want to turn far too easily; the old 10-speed in my memory at least was far more stable. Also wondering if the handlebars/stem have anything to do with it. The bars are cut down a bit to about 19", so I don't know about that. The stem's pretty long though, and everything up there is steel.

Then again, the 10 speed was likely steel, too. So who knows? Only reason I'm comparing to this mythical 10 speed is it's the only other bike I remember riding, besides my BMX-sized mini cruiser with the banana seat.

I use a zero offset seatpost and push my saddle all the way forward. Wanderer uses a setback post and has his saddle pushed all the way back. Guess which of us needs to move backwards and which of us needs to move forward to find the balance point?

I use a zero offset seatpost and push my saddle all the way forward. Wanderer uses a setback post and has his saddle pushed all the way back. Guess which of us needs to move backwards and which of us needs to move forward to find the balance point?

Ha,,,,, never even noticed that - maybe it is a function of weight bias..... i.e., the balance point.

Just as a point of information, that setback post is OEM, and a Brooks B-17 has very little fore aft adjustment. It's not even quite as far back as the OEM saddle was, but just very slightly forward of all the way back.

Looks like you either have a time trial bike or a bike of the wrong size? If you're riding with your seat all the way forward, you must have a lot of pressure/weight on your hands, no?

I suffer from patella femoral syndrome which necessitates a high forward saddle position. More so on a slack angled hybrid than a time trial bike. Plumb bob from nose of saddle 2 1/4" behind center of BB.