I was working on the rear coverboards today. I have been putting off the last two coverboards on each side for months, because I wasn't sure what to do. After thinking about it for some time, I found a solution that works for me. I will be laminating 3 - 4/4 boards on the boat, to make the final coverboards. I got two boards fit and glued today. One more board on each side to go. I cut through the transom so the coverboards can flow to the end of the transom. The final transom mahogany layers will "cap" the coverboards, so all of the nastiness will be hidden. As with the original boats, the "cap" is 1/2 inch. 0nce all three boards are glued in place, I will have plenty of material to shape to follow the curves on the rear of the boat. Bungs will be added to match the other coverboards when the shaping is complete.Jim

Here's the weekend progress.Got my last coverboards installed and shaped. Did it mostly with a hand plane and belt sander. I used an electric planer until I gouged one of the planks on the side of my boat. Looks like I will be doing an inlay. The nice thing about building your own boat is that screw ups don't bother me anymore. The inlay will be a small fix-it in the overall scheme of things. Pics below.Jim

The weekend progress.The coverboards are finally done! Shaped and sanded and ready for walnut stain. The subdeck has been installed in the bow area. The coverboards are 1/8" higher than the subdeck all around, so that the mahogany decking will be even with the top edge of the coverboards when installed. Had to add shims or trim down so that the batten that the subdeck rests on is exactly 3/8" lower than the top of the coverboards (1/4" subdeck + 1/8" mahogany planks). Made new patterns (convex curve) from the coverboard patterns to be used to get exact fit of the deck planks against the coverboards. I want to make sure that my caulk line against the coverboards are even at all points. I don't have much margin for error as my caulk lines will only be 1/8" wide. Hope to finish subdecking for the rest of the boat next weekend. Pics below.Jim

The weekend progress.The sub deck is all fitted into place except for the hatch covers. I ran short of plywood for one of the two hatch covers, so I will have to buy a 4x8 sheet just for that one cover. Oh well, I can always use the excess for something. I still need to encapsulate the undersides of the sub deck before I glue it down. Hope to have that all done next weekend. Then on to the mahogany planking. I can't wait.Pics Below.Jim

Jim, as always, looking very good. Your dedication to detail and desire to get an accurate replica are going to make your boat a site to behold and you'll be giving the older boats a good run for trophies should you decide to go that route. In my mind, there is no desirability difference between a factory built old boat and a home built labor of love other than the immense feeling of satisfaction one gets from building it and the knowledge that your boat benefits from improvements in building techniques.

Thanks Will!So what's been going on with your boat? I have been checking for your postings. Have you taken a sabbatical? Let me know if you have any kinks to work out. My ideas can also be used as a "reverse barometer". JIm

Here's the weekend progress.Finished the subdeck for the hatch covers. Encapsulated the undersides of the subdeck, and the deck structure so I can glue down next weekend. Spent a lot of time figuring out how wide my deck planks would be. Everything was determined by my classic gas filler trim ring. It is 4" in diameter which meant that my king plank had to be 4" wide also ( the gas filler ring doesn't extend over the caulk lines). Next was to determine the deck plank widths so that I would have 9 planks between the king plank and the outer edge of the hatch using an 1/8" caulk line. Played around using scraps until it worked. The final width came in a just a little under 1 3/4". Original boats generally had 1 3/4 " planks, so I was pretty happy with the results. Still undecided if the king plank will be stained dark walnut on the hatch covers or not. I have seen some boats with king plank stained dark walnut on the hatch covers, and some stained with the same mahogany stain like the rest of the planks. Jim

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Here's my layout. 9 planks on the hatches like the original boats. (not counting king plank)

This is what I am looking to copy. Notice no planking outside of the hatches, or in front of the hatches.

Some of the king planks went wide at things mounted on the king plank. For example if the 4" king plank came to a 4" fill ring the king plank would fillet radius out to a diameter 4" plus a caulk line and one deck plank on each side (one deck plank gets interrupted on both sides) and then a fillet radius back to a 4" king plank. The king plank widening was accomplished by book matching and edge gluing.

The weekend progress:I glued down all of the subdeck and flush trimmed it last weekend. I then milled the king planks, getting ready to install them next weekend. Will install them first and then work my way out on the narrower planks. I need to get two pieces that are to be 12 1/4" x 1/8" at the outer edge, next to the cockpit and then taper back to the stern. These pieces go between the outer edge of the hatches over to the coverboards. My bandsaw only goes up to 12" so re-sawing and planing down to 1/8" would be a problem. (scary also) I don't want a seam so those pieces will be milled where I get my hardwood. They only charge $25 to do that, saving me lots of time, and no seam. Pics Below:Jim

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Starting to look like a boat

I predrilled holes for the lift ring, gas filler, and lighted flag pole.