First off, Fatapple's is small. There were only about 15-20 tables, and no booths. The walls are hung with photographs of Jack London at various stages in his life, and two of the walls are neatly decorated with a very detailed trompe l'oeil of a bookshelf. (Every book's title is totally legible and distinct. The whole thing is very well-done. If you're intrigued by such things, you may not spend much time making eye contact with your dining companion the first time you're there. That's okay--you'll be back.)

There's a funny entryway, go ahead and step through it or you'll block traffic. One point off for the awkward entrance, but you'll forget about it once you see the dessert case with its enticing meringue pie, brownies, velvet cake, chocolate pudding and other homestyle but gourmet-quality sweets.

Brunch and breakfast are also served--I imagine they're very good. Good hours too--rare in the East Bay, where everyone seems to go to sleep at 9:00. Open 7 AM-11 PM Fri-Sat., 7 AM-10 PM all other days of the week.