RAM

What is up guys? Fated here and welcome
back to my channel for another video. Today have the awesome and powerful Asus G751 republic of gamers extreme gaming laptop. Packed with some of the latest and greatest technology including a Maxwell GPU, the G751 steps
up to the plate to lay waste to its competitors but is it everything that it is cracked up to
be? The model that I chose to go with with was the G751JY. The exact model number will be down
in description. This model comes with an Intel i7 4710HQ, 24 gigabytes of RAM, a one terabyte HDD, along with 2 128 gigabyte SSD’s in a
RAID configuration, a 1920 by 1080 IPS panel and most of all the extremely
powerful GTX 980M. So let’s start with the design. This
laptop is definitely some eye candy to look at. Modeled after the F-22 Raptor, it puts off
an intimidating image. Letting those around you know that you are serious
about your hardware. The vents on the rear make for a
mouth-watering visual that no laptop I have ever seen has even come close to. Though it is ginormous, coming in at
17.3 inches for a whopping 8.4 pounds of pure
performance. The sides consist of your standard laptop connections like USB
ports and the like. But nicely thrown in is an HDMI out so you can plug it up to
full performance gaming monitor. Also packed inside is a Blu ray player,
which I’m sure you movie lovers will greatly appreciate. They also have speakers of course, which
creates a pretty good sound but not something to be jumping off your feet
about. It is a bit lacking in presence if you
get what I mean but maybe to help with that they did throw in a sub-woofer. But
that in itself is largely unimpressive and it does make the sound feel a little
bit one-sided. Before I do forget to mention the
bottom is awesome and it is perfectly comfortable for long laptime gaming. Now in the middle of all this design is
the flashy red backlit keyboard with some macro keys including a steam button and record button. Which definitely helps
to capture those epic moments in game. I for one am in love with the keyboard
it feels and it types like a keyboard that you would pay many many dollars for. The back-light could have been a bit
brighter or at least a bit more distinction between the three brightness
settings. Now the touchpad is great once you do
realize that gestures are just completely useless and you do disable them. Then you find a really good and responsive touch pad. One of the best I’ve ever seen, some
money was definitely put into this one. Now for the display which is an IPS 1920
by 1080 panel with fantastic color accuracy. Finally a gaming PC with great color reproduction. Something that I myself have been really clamoring for. The colors really pop even under that matte screen finish. Also
75 hertz is a nice yet modest boost from 60 Hertz. Definitely no complaints here though.
Everyone will love anything and everything that is displayed on this
monitor. Now for performance the 4710HQ has been
out for a while now and I have covered it before and it is definitely overkill
for a gaming PC. But it does give you that freedom to
render and edit videos or even live stream your gameplay if you do feel like
it. 24 gigabytes of RAM, I mean my gosh when will you ever use that in-game. Most games barely use 8. But it will sure help in
editing, it surely help me. I render all my gameplay benchmarks videos in under one minute. Check the link in the description if you would like to see those. Now the SSD’s have some really good speed. You can see here on
screen what speed I was actually getting. Though I wish there were a bit more
space. I filled up mine with simple benchmarks.
Anyways, I know what you are all probably here for and that is for how does this
thing game. Let me tell you, I am jaw dropped by the GTX 980M’s performance. I mean seriously, desktop-like
performance and you can put it in your backpack. This thing takes on Lara Crofts
extremely performance crushing TressFX hair and laughs about it at fully maxed out
settings. I mean I for one am really impressed. I ran it through the usual benchmarks but I
don’t think that they really do it justice so I uploaded some gameplay videos so do
check them out if you do want dive deeper into it. But it will handle all the latest games
on at least high settings and you can be sure of that. So all in all it’s time for my verdict
on this beast, I mean it is most certainly everything it is
cracked up to be. But your wallet is going to be empty for awhile with a price tag of two
thousand three hundred dollars at the time of writing. And some other 751 models have even been close to three thousand dollars. It is definitely a chunk of money to
drop on a computer but I do think that this specific model is worth it. You can
even go with a cheaper model because the selling point here is the GTX 980M. If an IPS panel is not something
that is important to you then there are many other options that may better fit
your budget. But in the end I think this is a fantastic gaming PC. Many people will enjoy countless hours with this machine and won’t regret that purchase. So anyways those are my thoughts, tell me if you agree in the comments below if you think I’m an idiot do write that
too. But as always be sure to Like the video and subscribe and thank you guys so much for watching
and you guys have a good one!

Hi Friends this is Aamir Hussain and you’re Watching Trick I know YouTube channel Today I am unboxing my brand new Corsair Vengeance L.E.D. RAM Yes Guys a RAM With Blue L.E.D. Its a DDR4 RAM with a speed of 32 megahertz Now it’s time to Unbox this package Here is our with a protective plastic cover Yooooo !! Looking so premium and heavy weight In the back you can find the serial number for warranty purposes I have to sticks With Corsair logo now I’m going to test my corsair LED RAM Wow !! looking great now I can proudly say that i am using a gaming RAM this is a first time in the history of RAM we got L.E.D. Looking so fancy on my Asus Gaming motherboard This is a right way to fill your dark area of motherhood to impress your friends Thank You Corsair for making this type of RAM I’m loving it so much. Now Whats More !! You can download Corsair link software From the Corsair website and here you can monitor your ram speed and the main thing is you can control your RAM LEDs from here you can adjust your RAM LED speed by selecting both ram Or a single some forward lighting some backward lighting whatever you want It’s a great way to Change your RAM L.E.D. Settings. you can also put your RAM static for continuous lighting now you can group your settings also so that was the way to modify your RAM LED settings now It’s time to check out our windows loading time. The ASUS logo !! One Tow three four five Now my desktop is started in five seconds now I’m going to shut down my desktop One two three four and four seconds to shut down so that was the unboxing of my Corsair L.E.D. Ram Hope you like my video and Subscribe my youtube channel for more videos like this and you can buy this Cool RAM from the Link given below in the description Thank you have a nice day See you in my next video. 🙂

Hello and welcome to this video … … here I want to show you how to disassemble … … an Acer Aspire 5253 notebook and how to replace … … the fan, harddrive, CMOS-battery and RAM modules First remove the battery … … then remove these two screws Now you can take off the hatch On the right are the RAM modules … … on the left the harddrive To remove the harddrive you have to unscrew … … this little screw … … and slide the drive to the left … … lift the drive and take it out Harddrive removed ! On the right side you find the slots for the RAM … … the CMOS battery … … and the Wifi module To take out the RAM just release the clips Remove the optical drive Therefore you have to remove this single screw … … and pull out the optical drive Now uninstall the keyboard The keyboard is just latched into the notebook There are six clips to release on top of the keyboard To the left and to the right there are two further … fixed clips – these two can’t be released Here you see such a (black) clip Release it carefully with a little screwdriver So release all six black clips on top of the keyboard This (red) clip can’t be moved or released After releasing the clips just bend the keyboard … … *carefully* and take it out of the notebook Grab the keyboard at the very top and lift it Be careful – the keyboard is still attached by a cable … … what you see here Pull it out of the jack – also very carefully 🙂 Now you have removed the keyboard Now you have access to another eight screws … … remove them At the bottom of this notebook you’ll find … … nine screws which have to be removed !! IMPORTANT !! Remove another four little screws inside of the … … battery compartment (not shown in this video) 🙁 Don’t forget this screw inside of the RAM compartment This one also holds together the notebook’s bottom … … to the front cover Put the notebook into this position and … … seperate the bottom from the top cover Use a screwdriver to unclip Both halves are attached by plastic clips too … Detach these FFC cables before taking off the cover One FFC to the left and one to the right side You can leave the display connector connected … … but detach the little blue-white cable … … obviously the speaker connector All done? Now remove the cover easily Just lift it off To replace the fan you have to remove three screws … … and unfortunately also the mainboard Detach these three cables … … and unscrew these three screws Now you can lift off the board carefully … … turn it over to access the fan Here you see the three scews again … … and this is the sticky tape connecting the fan … … to the heat pipe This is the electrical connector of the fan Unplug this connector to remove the fan After replacing the fan make sure that all screws … … and connectors are back in their original place Three screws hold the fan … … another three screws hold the board … … and three cables have to be put back Before reassembling the complete notebook … … make a temporary test first by attaching … … the cables and installing the RAM … … and here it works ! The notebook is almost completely reassembled … By shaking it you would hear any loose screws … … or connectors you forgot to reattach In this case everthing is ok You should do that everytime before you … … turn on a repaired electrical device Thank you for watching !

What is up guys fated here and welcome back
to the channel for another video and today we are going to be covering the all the Lenovo
Ideapad Y700 gaming laptop. This of course including the powerful GTX 960m 4Gb version
and the all new Skylake 6700HQ processor. But before we dive too deep into the specs
of this PC lets take a look at its over design. Lenovo once again turns to it tried and true
brushed metal design that they have used for a number a years, The entire outer housing
is using the brushed aluminum this time giving it a very solid feel. Lenovo didn’t stray
too far from their previous design at all, keeping things quite familiar even the very
similar closed vents in the rear on the left and right side. Even going so far as to keep
the same lid slants on the edges. But hey why fix something that isn’t broken. I will
say though that this definitely gets them that gaming appeal that they are looking for,
a market they are learning is quite profitable. So lets turn out attention to connectivity,
the Y700 makes no changes in connectivity from last generations sporting the usual dual
USB 3.0 HDMI Ethernet jack and kensington security lock as well as the new standard
power port always on USB 2.0 slot an SD card slot and headphone and headset jack combo.
Though they did adapt their recovery button by making it a pinhole, whereas before everyone
would accidentally hit recover and freak out when their PC wants to reformat. But you actual
have to intentionally put something in the pinhole to recover your hard drive.
But lets flip it over and take a look at the bottom. Here on the bottom we have a continuance
of the brushed metal design which I always like, previously they were plastic. We have
the sub-woofer which is centered and close to the user which gives decent bass without
the one sided feel. Towards the top is the intake vent which really like the heat dispersion
system they have chosen to go with this time around, they intake through the bottom and
exhaust out of this rear panel which just makes loads more sense, and an area that y
series customers were demanding improvements. Now lets take a look under the hood. The first
and most noticeable thing is the keyboard, Lenovos favorite keyboard style makes its
return once again. Shrunken and moved around keys are a trademark of lenovos chiclet style
keyboard, though I do have to say the keys feel very tactile and they are quite responsive,
I really enjoyed typing on them. And for us gamers they finally throw us a bone with the
WASD keys being outlined in red. Also returning is the Lenovo red backlight keyboard two brightness
settings of on and then slightly brighter, which for me I don’t think they are bright
enough, I would have liked either more options or at-least more brightness.
Now JBL audio is on board once again and delivers some quality sound on the beautiful speakers
with a slanted design where the speakers actually fire sound at you as apposed to straight at
the ceiling so a very good design process here, awesome use physics. Now the palm rest
this time around is perfect, just spot on, it’s a rubber based material which is dark
enough to keep the design flow and even does a great job of reducing fingers prints which
has always been a problem on Lenovo laptops. Just perfect!
Now the touch pad, no problem here, plenty of remove to move and swipe and no conflicts
with gestures either. Very solid execution I think this should continue being their touch
bad. You also see our badges here near the corners,
which show us a few of the things that Lenovo is offering in this nice package. An intel
I7 6700HQ processor clocked at 2.6 gigahertz, 16 Gb of DDR4 ram at 2133mhz and also an Nvidia
Geforce GTX 960m with 4Gb of Vram and all that to go with an IPS LED back lit wide viewing
angle monitor…. Heck this is starting to sound like the perfect editing PC (Though
more on editing in another video, check the description for a link) Anyways an IPS with
all the power to make use of it… wheres the catch well… The listing said anti glare,
which is normal for non-touch models but it still made me suspicious. And it turns out
Lenovo chose to use an Anti-glare plastic film to go over their screens, OH man what
a mistake, everything looks washed out and when gaming you can see the lines on the anti-glare
cover… So I did what everyone else would probably do and took my wife’s blow dryer
and a pocket knife and peeled this ugly piece of garbage off. After a good hour of tugging
away we find underneath a beautiful glossy display, colors are mouth watering and they
are sport on, not even a shred of light bleed. Though being IPS we did lose a tad bit of
brightness, nonetheless the colors are beautiful, best Lenovo screen to date, if you are fine
with 60Hz, Lenovo is still lagging behind on that, they want to make gaming laptops
but just haven’t figured out that higher Hz would be greatly appreciated.
And now for storage a 128 Gb SSD with upgrade options and it gets some really good speed,
also a 1tb 5400 rpm hard drive which I can’t hardly stand, battlefield 4 already takes
forever to load I don’t need to wait another 3 minutes for this hard drive to catch up.
And battery life, the 4 cell battery brings us average lifespan, I got around 1.5 hours
of gameplay on the battery which I don’t see anyone getting over 2 hours while gaming
even with the battery saver on. Though during normal use like writing this script I was
able to squeeze almost 5 hours out if it on 75% brightness and balanced settings.
So its got a good body, the screen looks nice after a huge adjustment is made and its got
a decent battery life but how does this thing perform? I am going to keep this in the realm
of gaming, I have another video dedicated to editing and rendering side of things, but
for what most people come here for and that is the games. The GTX 960M hangs with big
dogs but think of it as the lower tear card in a group of new GPUs, its got all the latest
bells an whistles like shadowplay and Maxwell technology but its nothing spectacular. Part
of my gripe is that the 960M was in last gens model and It almost seems like they had a
surplus of GPUS and decided to use these instead. So this makes it hard for me to recommend
to anyone coming from the y50 models using the 960m or even the 860m models. Though one
big improvement is temps, I never once saw temps go into the 80’s on the CPU or the
GPU, the new cooling system is phenomenal. While running it through 3Dmark which it scored
quite well in, the temperature on the chassis was around a comfortable temperature and not
once did my palms get sweaty. If you want to see exact performance I have many gameplay
videos to choose from, check the description below for a link.
And with that this brings me to my final conclusion The new y700 from Lenovo is no doubt a beautiful
machine and it brings all around great performance and makes strides in many different areas.
But coming from its last iteration I am not sure it is worth it. I mean we have DDR4 ram
and a Skylake processor which for content creators I say yes it is worth it but for
the general user and especially the gamer I just can’t recommend you upgrade. But
if you are coming from the Y510P or any other brand then now is a great time to upgrade.
This PC is great all around performance and truly an enjoyable experience. If you guys
have anymore questions or more things you would like to know just leave a comment down
below, and as always be sure to like the video, comment and subscribe for more awesome content,
Thanks for watching, you guys have a good one.

In this video I’ll be upgrading my Gigabyte
Aero 15x laptop, I’ll be replacing the thermal paste with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, as well
as upgrading the memory, WiFi card and adding in a new SSD. I’ll go through all the selected
parts and tell you why I’ve picked them, and I’ll also show before and after performance
in terms of thermals, gaming, and video editing to show how the upgrades help. As you may know I recently got a Gigabyte
Aero 15x laptop, primarily to be used for editing these videos while travelling. Out
of the box the Aero 15x comes with one 16GB stick of DDR4-2666 memory, so it’s running
in single channel. As I’ve shown in a previous video, we can get a nice performance improvement
with dual channel memory. First I’ll go through all the parts I’ve
bought for the upgrade, walk you through the upgrade process, then go through some benchmarks
to show the before and after differences. After contacting Gigabyte support, they advised
that only the following memory kits are officially supported. If you’re looking at upgrading
memory I’d highly suggest going by this list, as there are many stories online of
people trying to install other modules only to find they don’t work. I’m sure other
modules out there do work, but if you can get officially supported memory then may as
well to avoid possible problems, but more on this later. My laptop has the 16GB stick of V-Color memory
listed down the bottom, originally I thought I’d just buy a second stick of it and be
done, but as it turns out no one really seems to be selling them, they seem a little rare
which sucks. My next plan was to buy two replacement sticks then sell the V-Color one later. I found that Amazon were selling the Kingston
memory listed on the supported list, so bought two 16gb sticks from the US shipped here to
Australia, you can check the links in the description for updated pricing on everything
I used in the upgrade too. Out of the box the Aero 15x also came with
a 512GB NVMe SSD which performs pretty well, but it does have two NVMe capable M.2 slots
in total. While this is honestly probably enough space for me, SSDs have lowered quite
a bit in price lately, and I thought having a nice large amount of space for me to dump
video files onto would be useful. With this in mind I bought a 1TB Samsung 970 EVO for
the second M.2 slot, so it’s an NVMe SSD although write performance will drop if the
cache fills up. I did consider buying a PRO drive to avoid this issue, but honestly for
video editing I’ll mostly be doing reads rather than writes so I think this is perfectly
fine for my use case, and the slightly lower read and write speeds are still pretty high. The Aero 15x also comes with an Intel Wireless-AC
8260 card, which has a max speed of 867 Mbps. I’ve picked up a newer 9260 card for just
$15 which doubles this max speed to 1.73 Gbps, and it achieves this with multi-user MIMO,
which will of course depend on the wireless access point we’re connecting to and what
it supports. The 9260 card also has Bluetooth version 5 while the 8260 has version 4.2,
so that also gives us double the speed and four times the range for bluetooth, so for
just $15 we’re pretty much doubling all our wireless capabilities, again you can find
up to date prices in the description. If you caught my Aero 15x thermal testing
video, you’ll remember that under high levels of load I did see some thermal throttling,
although I could reduce this for the most part by undervolting the CPU. To try and improve
this, I’ve bought some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste to repaste the CPU and GPU, as it’s
got one of the best thermal conductivity ratings for non-conductive paste. Liquid metal is
also an option and would give much better results, but I decided not to take that path
here. I’m not sure if I’ll need them, but I’ve also bought some EK 0.5mm and 1mm
thermal pads, as the heatsinks also come into contact with VRM chips, but we’ll see that
once we get inside. If you’re getting pads I’d suggest looking for Fujipoly which have
higher thermal conductivity, unfortunately I wasn’t easily able to buy them in Australia. Now let’s get into the actual upgrade process.
To open the Aero 15x up you’re going to need a TR6 screwdriver bit, use it to remove
the 13 screws and take off the bottom panel, I did this using a plastic pry tool. At this
point I’m going to unplug and remove the battery before getting to work and then start
unscrewing the screws holding the heatsink in with a phillips head screwdriver. Quick disclaimer before we get into the repasting,
I’ve never done this before so this is my first time, this isn’t meant to be an in
depth guide, I’m just showing what I’ve done. You can remove the old paste with isopropyl
alcohol and a cloth, but I’ve got some Arctic Silver ArctiClean, which has both a thermal
material remover and thermal surface purifier. The first bottle is used to remove thermal
compound while the second is used to prepare the surface for new thermal material, but
these are by no means required, this is just what I’m using. You can see that in addition to the CPU and
GPU dies, there’s thermal compound on a few other chips too. My concern going in was
that a thicker paste may have been used here rather than the same paste as the CPU and
GPU, which would be required if there was a bit of a gap between the chips and heatsink.
While removing it, it did appear to be a bit thicker. This is why I decided to use some
0.5mm thermal pads, but it may have just been possible to use some other paste instead.
I was also concerned about the thickness of the pads, if they were too thick I might risk
improper contact with the CPU and GPU, although this is pretty unlikely as the pads should
compress under pressure, and 0.5mm is pretty thin anyway. After cleaning all surfaces, cutting and applying
the pads I applied the Kryonaut paste with the provided tool onto the CPU and GPU dies.
Next I put the heatsink back in place, screwed it in and plugged the two fan cables back
into the motherboard, so with that complete let’s look at the before and after differences. Unfortunately there was almost no temperature
difference after the repaste, the only difference I saw was just 1 degree lower after the repaste
on both CPU and graphics while gaming, but otherwise it seems like the original paste
was about the same, still thermal throttling even with the CPU undervolted when under high
load at 90c. When we look at the actual clock speeds though,
apart from exporting a video in Adobe Premiere I was actually seeing slightly lower clock
speeds after the repasting due to the thermal throttling, so a bit sad that I get less performance
now with the same temperatures, I guess the next step would be to try again in case I
messed it up somehow or go with liquid metal. Installing the second M.2 SSD was straightforward,
simply remove the screw, plug in the drive, and screw it in place. The speeds from the
new drive were actually a fair bit better compared to the original disk, I could have
swapped them to use the faster one for the primary drive but this is fine. Next up the WiFi card, first up you’ll want
to carefully lift up the two antenna cables attached to the card, keeping in mind which
cable was on which connector. Unscrew the WiFi card and remove it, insert the new WiFi
card, screw it in, and reconnect the antenna cables in the same order. Unfortunately I
haven’t been able to properly test the WiFi card upgrade, as my wireless access point
is pretty old and can’t properly make use of the features. Now let’s talk about the final and most
difficult upgrade, the memory. As mentioned before I originally planned on installing
two new sticks. Unfortunately when I did this, the laptop would just boot with a black screen
and was not usable, a common problem others have reported when attempting memory upgrades
with this laptop. I’m not sure why this was the case, considering I specifically bought
memory listed as supported, it also didn’t boot with just one of my new sticks installed,
either stick in either slot did not work and both didn’t work together. The only combination
that I found to work was the existing V-Color stick in the opposite slot it came in with
one of my new sticks in the first slot and this was with the latest FB08 BIOS. In this
configuration it’s apparently running at DDR4-2400 rather than 2666, so not perfect,
but the times are CL17 and will do for now as I still get the benefits of dual channel
and also now a total of 32GB. I let memtest run for 24 hours just to try
and check for any obvious problems with the memory, and after all passes completed there
were no errors detected. I’m not really sure why I have to use the original V-color
memory, but I guess at least it works. I’ve tested a few games to see how going
from single to dual channel helps improve performance with the Aero 15x. Far Cry 5 was tested with the built in benchmark,
and we can see there’s a fair improvement with the dual channel memory. At ultra settings
there was a 15.7% improvement to average FPS, and a larger 27.8% improvement to the 1% low. CS:GO was tested with the Ulletical benchmark,
and there was a larger 44% improvement to average FPS with all settings maxed out, while
there was an 18% improvement to the 1% low. PUBG was tested with the replay feature, and
I used the exact same replay with both single and dual channel memory. At ultra settings
there was a 28% improvement to average frame rate, and a larger 38% improvement to the
1% low. I’ve also tested exporting a 4K video with
Adobe Premiere, and we’re seeing the dual channel memory complete the task over 20%
faster than the single channel configuration, so we’re seeing quite a bit improvement
with dual channel despite the suboptimal speeds. Overall I’m pretty happy with the upgrades,
the increased SSD space is nice, the extra WiFi speed may be useful when I’m in a hotel
uploading 4K video, and the dual channel memory configuration will help improve gaming and
video export times. It’s not ideal that the paste change didn’t help as much as
I’d hoped with the thermal throttling that happens even with the CPU undervolted, other
people reported mixed results including improvements to no change, so I guess my paste was alright
from the start, still interesting to know. It could be worth attempting again with the
pads removed and using paste instead, but to be honest I can’t really be bothered
experimenting further, so for now I’ll just leave it as it is, as I’ll need it in working
order soon for CES. Let me know what sort of upgrades you’ve
got planned for your laptop, and hopefully some of the information has been useful, as
I know many of you were waiting for this video before upgrading your own laptops, so I’d
definitely be interested in hearing, especially your experience with memory upgrades, the
Aero 15x in particular seems to be pretty picky, and as usual if you’re new here don’t
forget to subscribe for future tech videos like this one.

Hello and welcome to this Mr Memory
video. Today I’m going to show you how quick and easy it is to install memory
into your laptop. Before we begin make sure you have a clear workspace you will also need a screwdriver to hand.
It is important that your laptop is completely shut down and switched off, to prevent potential damage to the
memory from anti-static electricity, it is a good idea to discharge yourself first.
This can be done by simply touching a grounded metal object such as a radiator First of all make sure the laptop is unplugged from any power supply or external accessories and then lay it upside down. Remove the battery by sliding the clips to release it. Next you will need to locate the slots
where the new memory will be installed. This can vary by model, usually there
will be a small removable cover on the underside of the case Please consult your laptop manual for
more information. To remove the memory cover use a screwdriver to undo any screws and release the cover.
The memory slots should be clearly visible at this stage. If you’re replacing the existing memory pull the clips apart. The old memory will
pop up, pull it away gently to release it from the slot. Take the new memory you’re going to
install, hold it by the edges and locate the notch. Line this up with
the notch on the slot and carefully insert the memory
at a 45 degree angle. Apply a firm push to ensure the
memory is fully seated in the slot. The clips on either side will
automatically snap back into place. Put the laptop back together in the
reverse order you took it apart. Replace the memory cover and then insert
the battery until it clicks into place. Turn the laptop back on and everything should be running smoothly and quicker than before. Thanks for watching this Mr Memory video for further help and assistance please
visit the Customer Care and Support section on our website

Hi, I’m Allen, and welcome to Expert Village.
Today, I’m going to show you how to build your very own Personal Computer. Now, the
moment you’ve all been waiting for. I’m going to assemble this computer, right here, in
front of you. Well, first, a case would be good, right? I’ve got the case right here,
and I did take the sides off. Now, the sides do come off relatively easy. It’s your best
bet to take off both sides. Pretty much, these ones, they all work the same way. They just
pretty much slide on and click into place. All you’ve got to do is line up the slots,
and everything. There will be screws back here, sometimes thumb screws, sometimes these
little screws. And for the most part, you’re just going to have them in the hole and you
unscrew them. Take both case sides off, so you’ll have a case that looks like this. Stuff
will go in this side here. You’ll have a couple basic things: you’ll have your wires from
inside the case; you’ll probably have a box of cables, things like that. Pretty much,
we can get started. This one actually came with another fan built on the back and you’ll
see we can start putting the actual computer together. I’m going to set it up where it’s
comfortable for me to work on. Make sure you have a lot of light because some things are
a little bit hard to see. In the box of screws, you’ll have a little bag, and you’ll have
these, I don’t know if you can see these, but these are like little riser screws. They’re
brass screws, so be careful when you’re screwing stuff into them because brass is a very soft
metal. You’ll put these rights in the case. It has letters and numbers on the case and
you’ll line it up with your board where the screw holes on the board are. As soon as you
do that, your board will be able to sit above the metal so it won’t short out. That’s pretty
much what these are for. I’m going to go ahead and just put this in. Best bet is just to
do this with your hand. This is where this one goes, and as you can see, there’s other
ones and everything like that. That’s pretty much ready to go.