I've been meaning to post this info in much more complete format, but this info seems needed and I'm typing much of this info in tech help emails, and on the forums, or explaining it on the phone, so I'm gonna just post up what I can quickly, and reserve space for future additions when I have time.

A lot of this info is applicable to any solenoid. For instance EGR or Boost solenoids, or gasser injectors or maybe even applicable to a certain extent to diesel injectors on BRM and BEW. You just need to understand that air or gasoline is a fluid just the same as trans fluid.

A solenoid is a electromagnetic-hydraulic device to that electricity can be used to move "something". Usually it would be a switch , such as the solenoid on a starter or the solenoid portion of a relay. But in a transmission the "something" is a pintle to control fluid pressure. Transmission solenoids function to allow the computer to control movement of valve.

If you take apart a solenoid you would find a "winding" and a "pintle". When amperage is flowing through the winding it makes a magnetic field to move the pintle. The pintle is a a small valve that either blocks fluid pressure or vents it.

Electrical issues with solenoid (solenoid codes) .

If you have a solenoid code then you may have a electrical problem with the solenoid. There are various methods that car designers can use for the computer to "see" a problem with the solenoid. These methods would include the computer actually measuring the amperage flowing through the solenoid circuit, voltage checks on the solenoid circuit, and the computer looking for a inductive spike when the solenoid is shut off. I don't know which method VW uses because Vw doesn't publish this info, but its irrelevant anyway. I do know this, VW's trans computers are real good at "seeing" a problem with the solenoid circuit. So if you don't have a solenoid code then you don't have an electrical problem with your solenoid, so put away your ohm meter and look elsewhere. Ohm checking when you don't have a solenoid code is a complete waste of time. Now, you have to understand that the computer has no way of knowing if the problem with the circuit is actually the solenoid or the wiring between the computer and the solenoid. Problems like mouse chewed wires, corrosion in TCM connector, water in the solenoid connector, open circuit in the internal harness, bad power or ground to the trans computer or bad trans computer can cause these codes as well.

Lots of aftermarket sources define P0740 as TCC solenoid circuit (or similar definition). But, P0740 is NOT a solenoid code. Vagcom and other correct information sources define it as "Excess TCC slip" See 01m part 3. Dont try to diagnose P0740 as if it is a solenoid code. IT IS NOT A SOLENOID CODE. P0740 might be caused by the solenoid in some rare instances where the solenoid is stuck off, so see the section in this thread about "mechanical issues with solenoids". A stuck solenoid will not trigger a "solenoid code". A solenoid code is a problem with the electrical circuit relating to the solenoid, and a stuck solenoid will NOT affect the electrical portion of the solenoid. Please note: If your solenoid is sticking off it can cause P0740 but usually it will stick off sometimes and stick on sometimes. The symptoms for sticking on are so Radical and undeniable that you would never be concerned with the TCC stuck off. See stuck solenoid example #2 in the "mechanical issues with solenoid" section (post #2).

Diagnosing a solenoid code.

Diagnosing a solenoid code is real easy! As long as it's reoccuring immediately and consistently. If its not reoccurring consistently it can be just short of impossible.

Reoccurring immediately and consistently is defined as, "you clear the solenoid code with vag-com or your OBDII code checker and the code comes right back every time". If the solenoid code reoccurs immediately and consistently this usually means you have a open or short in the circuit and should be easy to identify with an ohm meter.

Please note: some transmission codes will put your 01m in failsafe or limp mode, and do not "reset" or clear, even if the problem is not currently evident or even if the problem has been repaired. You MUST clear these codes. If you repair a problem, and you are still in limp mode (failsafe) then you MUST clear the codes as repairing the problem will not take it out of limp mode. Maybe with enough driving or enough key resets it would but it would be better just to spin over to your local buddy with a code checker and have him clear it. Just because your transmission is in limp mode does NOT mean the problem is reoccuring. Limp mode is not your problem, Limp mode is the computers reaction to the problem. People always say, "yeah its doing it consistantly! Its doing it right now." Just because its in limp mode does NOT mean the code is reoccurring immediately and consistently.

I'm not going to explain how to use an ohmmeter but techniques include....

1. Removing the pan & ohm checking the solenoids. Drawback of this is it requires pulling the pan and this check doesn't check the integrity of the internal harness.

2. Ohm checking through the solenoid and harness from the computer with the computer unplugged. Drawbacks of this is that it requires a wire schematic and its hard to get to the computer. Benefits is you can identify problems in the harness.

3 . Ohm checking through the solenoid and internal harness from the trans connector. Due to difficulty in pulling the trans computer and not wanting to pull the pan, this is where I would normally start on a 01m. Use the following pic to know where to ohm check.

Here's more info on this process and using the solenoid connector pinout from the link above.

Ohm checks:

every solenoid has 2 prongs. One for power and one for ground. To ohm check a solenoid at the solenoid, you would put you muliti-meter on the ohms setting, with one lead on power (one prong), and one lead on the ground (other prong). But this would require pulling the pan and it doesn't check continuity of the internal harness. So to ohm check the solenoid through the harness you do the same thing just through the harness.

Pin 2 on the solenoid case connector supplies power (voltage supply) to the EPC solenoid. It says voltage supply on the chart. So if you were checking the EPC solenoid resistance through the case connector you would put a lead on power to EPC solenoid (pin 2) and the other lead on the ground to the EPC solenoid (pin 8).

All the other solenoids use pin 1 as power (voltage supply) so for to ohm check all the other solenoids you put one lead on pin 1 and the other lead on the pin that corresponds to a specific solenoid ground.
Now that I've used the term "ground" someone is gonna say "my harness isn't showing ground right now as I check it". Of course it isn't. These solenoids are provided with power all the time and when the computer wants them on, it grounds the solenoid. When the computer is commanding the solenoid on is the only time you will see ground on those wires.

Note: intermittent solenoid codes are difficult to impossible to pinpoint using ohm checks!

I would suggest if you don't have an ohm meter, or have lots of questions or don't understand this then you should just buy a solenoid and try it. Usually a solenoid code is caused by the solenoid except for the things listed above.

4-2-2013 Edit: N91 and n93 are fatter and cant be installed in the wrong location. Others are smaller and could potentially be installed in n91 or n93 spot. If you put the high resistance solenoid where the low resistance solenoid goes it will cause failsafe with a solenoid trouble code.

When the solenoid code is not reoccuring consistently it is very difficult to pinpoint the cause.

Intermittent code is defined as... You're driving along and the code triggers. You clear it and it doesn't reoccur for "some interval of time". IE till the next day, or till the next week, or 2 weeks later. You would have to do your ohm checks at the immediate moment that the code reoccurs in order to pinpoint the problem. Lots of times in these circumstances it is the winding in the solenoid shorting to itself effectively shortening the length of the winding which changes the resistance of the solenoid. Sometimes the windings can short for just brief intervals and then not short again till its hot or till some random bump in the road or just plain intermittently. Other times you might have a bare spot in a wire rubbing something and shorting to ground sometimes, or you could have a intermittent "open" in the internal harness or things like this.If you have a intermittent solenoid code you should do a good visual inspection of the harness between the trans and the computer unplugging and inspecting all the connections, and if you see nothing then try a solenoid.

If I were involved in a intermittent solenoid code and the solenoid didn't fix it, and I found nothing in the other checks then I would attach a 4 channel oscilloscope to power and ground on the solenoid in question, and a amp clamp hooked to the scope, and drive it till it acts up.

Note: intermittent solenoid codes are commonly caused by water in the solenoid connector on top of the trans. If it happens when its raining or after driving through a puddle then open the connector and blow it out with compressed air or brake clean, clear the code and see if it reoccurs.

NOTE: Sometimes solenoid codes or other codes on a 01m do not clear on their own even if you have fixed the problem. In these circumstances you will have to clear them with vag-com. OBDII may work also.

MULTIPLE SOLENOID CODES on 01m

Lots of times folks will contact me and have multiple solenoid codes and want to know what to do.

1st. Understand that most of the solenoids in a 01m are powered from the same wire. They get this power from the computer and it has to pass through the cars harness and reach the solenoid connector. Then this power has to make it through the internal harness to each of the solenoids. Heres a diagram of the internal wiring to the solenoids. This is the diagram for a older jetta so it might not be exactly the same for all cars but the logic applies.

As you can see the last wire on the right powers all of the solenoids except for the #6 solenoid. So logic would say if you have a code for all the solenoids except for #6 then you would have a break in the harness of the car or a break in the internal harness before the solenoids.

Or if you had a code for all the 1-5 solenoids then logic might say that you have a break in the internal harness after the bridge to the 7 solenoid but before the 1-5 solenoids.

But there is a problem with this logic. The computer will sometimes only trigger codes for the solenoids that are on. If the trans went to failsafe before the codes triggered then it might not have triggered all the codes even though there is no power to them. Sometimes the computer isn't so great at giving the best info with multiple codes.

So what you have to do when you have Multiple solenoids codes is realize that most likely 4 or 5 solenoids didn't all fail at the same time. Its likely that a group of solenoids lost power at the same time.

First check that you have 12V at the solenoid connector on top of the trans. See my website (linked above) to know where the solenoid connector is and check the diagram above to see where to check for !2 V. If you have 12V on the power wire then you should ohm check through the solenoid connector for all the solenoids. If you have multiple soelnoids that read open checked this way then in all likelihood you have an open in the internal harness and your next step would be to pull the pan and unplug the solenoids and do ohm checks of the harness itself.

And of course dont forget that your computer must be powered up with 12V and have good ground to it as well. All the things I mentioned above can still be the cause of multiple solenoids codes (computer, car harness, trans internal harness, water in connector ect).

Well I've checked resistance with ohm meter and it seems fine. What do I do now?

While resistance checking or "static voltage" testing is ok and will identify most problems every once in a while you get one that checks good and your at a loss of what to do. In certain situations, mainly either a intermittent or a case of poor connection you will need to amp check to identify a problem in a solenoid circuit, to fix your solenoid trouble code (or codes). In these cases the next step is to AMP test the solenoid circuits. I usually use a amp clamp, sometimes with a oscilliscope, but a multimeter that can check amperage might be good enough.

There are two methods.

1. Amp check from computer, through cars harness, through trans internal harness and through solenoids. Drawback: You have to pull computer, and you have to have a wire schematic to see which wires to hook to.
2. Amp check at solenoid connector on top of trans, through the internal harness and through the solenoids. Drawback: If your problem is in the cars harness between the solenoid connector and the computer then this check isn't going to find your problem. Benefit: Its easier to do.

If your getting one specific code, relating to one specific solenoid circuit then jump power to the appropriate pin in the diagram above. Then ground the appropriate pin to run amperage through the circuit. for instance.. you have a code on for n88 solenoid then jump battery voltage to pin 1 and ground to pin 3.

I do this with a solenoid connector that I've acquired (through a 5 speed conversion). I plug it in to the solenoid connector, and jump battery voltage and ground to the appropriate pins. If you dont have a solenoid connector you can improvise something either a "female" round pin connector that you take apart to use the "pin" in order to connect to the male "pins" inside the solenoid connector or maybe if you have some tiny alligator clip test leads in your tool box, that might work too. Simply touching the pins with some type of probe might work too, but it's tight in there and will be hard to do this and get a good connection.

NOTE OF WARNING: The low resistance solenoids (4.5 to 5.1 ohms see ohms of solenoids above) CANNOT handle lots of amperage running through them. They WILL heat up and burn out if you simply hook up power and ground and leave it connected. When the computer turns these "ON" they control the amount of amperage through them with Pulse Width Modulation. If your amp checking them you need to do it quickly, just tapping the wire to connect the ground. This will make it difficult to "see" your reading, if your using a meter. You might want to just NOT test these this way. Of course if you just have one solenoid code relating to a low resistance solenoid and your resistance checks have failed you then of course you have to. I use an amp clamp and a scope in this circumstance as with my scope I can "scroll" backwards to see what the readings were.

How many amps should it have? AMP tests are dependent upon your battery voltage and resistance of the solenoid. Ohms law is V=I x R. Read up on ohms law here--->http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law

Use your meter top get your acutal battery voltage first, then insert battery voltage and the resistance of the solenoid, into the formula, and do the math, to see what amp reading should be. If its low then you need to find out why. ie bad solenoid, bad connection, bad harness ect.

EXAMPLE for instance: You have code for n88. your battery voltage is 12.6. N88 solenoid should read 55 ohms. You've done voltage tests and ohms tests till your blue in the face. No solid failure stands out, so you amp test. Lets say for instance you have the computer out all ready cuz you swapped it out with a buddy's computer or something. So you unplug the computer jump 12v to the power wire for the solenoids and you jump ground to your n88 ground wire, while measuring amperage.

we insert our numbers into our formula V= I x R

V = 12.6 volts
R = 55 ohms

So after a little high school algebra our amperage should be .2 amps (rounded). Lets say for this example our amperage was .5 A. So we know our system, when "LOADED" cannot handle the correct amperage. Yes the resistance and voltage checked fine cuz we checked till we were blue in the face. In a actual working circuit (loaded) the amperage can be low even when YOUR meter checks the voltage and resistance as ok.

But where is our problem? Is it....

1. In our cars harness?
2. In our transmissions internal harness?
3. In our solenoid?
4. In a connection somewhere?
5. To hell with these things I'm gonna drive this car in the demolition derby!. Failsafe is ok for Dem. Derby cuz I'll shift it manually!

We don't know because we checked all the way through the circuit from the computer to the solenoid. Our amp reading shows us there is a problem but NOT where. So the next step would probably be to amp check at the solenoid connector. So continuing the example from above lets say we amp check at the solenoid connector for the n88 and it shows the correct .2 amps. At this point we would know the problem lies in the harness between the computer and the solenoid connector. A good check now would be to use a spare solenoid or take one out of your trans and jumper it to the harness and amp check again from the computer. Do this BEFORE opening up the harness looking for corrosion or partial broken wires etc! And the reason why is because if it checks good then in all likelihood then with these results the problem would lie in the connection between the cars harness and the solenoid connector. I've had transmission solenoid codes many times be due to round connectors that the female side was "stretched" out. This has been the most common issue that caused me to have to go so far as amp tests, but corrosion or partially broken wires cause this scenario also.

But lets say that our check at the solenoid connector DID NOT show the correct amperage. Lets say the amperage showed .5 amps. So at this point we can assume the cars harness is good and that the problem lies in our internal harness or n88 solenoid. To pinpoint the problem we would then pull the trans pan and amp check the solenoid without the harness. No need to remove it to do this , just jumper voltage to it "in place" and and if it checked good then we can say, through the process of elimination that our harness is the culprit.

None of this is super simple, but this is what it takes to do DIAGNOSIS. Diagnosis means knowing ABSOLUTELY, positively what the problem is. It doesn't mean, you have a solenoid code and so you slap a solenoid on it, or slap a harness on it or you throw a computer at it. This is why fixing cars is tough. This is why everyone thinks stuff is too expensive or that mechanics are incompetent. If All this is too much for you then just slap some parts on it. Honestly in the real world lots of times slapping some parts on is easier and cheaper than doing all this.

And for those who have multiple solenoid codes and end up at the amp check process, you might have to do this amp test for all the solenoids that you have codes for. Yes, its alot of work. But if its a problem in the power feed circuit most likely you will identify the problem on the first solenoid circuit you amp test and all the others might be the same. (hopefully??)

I'll probably be editing this and adding some amp check pics next time I go through this process.

Definition of terms.

1. Valve -- NOT A SOLENOID. The term solenoid valve although true in the most literal sense is confusing. I just want to differentiate that a valve is not the same thing as a solenoid. It would probably be best to call a solenoid a solenoid and not a solenoid valve.
2. Solenoid-- electomagnetic-mechanical device so that electricity can be used to control something mechanical (valve, relay switch ect) In a transmission electro magnetic force is used to control a mechanical pintle which controls trans fluid pressure. Other solenoids (boost or EGR, ect) use electromagnetic force to control a pintle that controls vacuum.
3. Fluid-- AIR, vacuum, or liquid.

The electrical portion of the solenoid makes a magnetic feild to move the "pintle". The pintle needs to move freely. Fluid pressure is routed to the solenoid and the pintle either exhausts the pressure, or blocks the pressure. That pressure is used to move a valve. If the pintle sticks, it can block the pressure when it should be exhausting the pressure (stuck on) or it can exhaust the pressure when it should be blocking it (stuck off).
The first thing you need to do if you suspect a sticking solenoid is PUT YOUR OHM METER AWAY! You cannot determine that you have a sticking solenoid by ohm checking! The pintle being stuck doesn't affect the resistance of the solenoid in any way, shape or form.

There are three ways to determine a sticking solenoid.

Laymens method...The best way to find a sticking solenoid is to understand each solenoid's function. See my website in the 01m FAQ for solenoid function. Today 5-1815 I just realized I never put the trans component chart on my site. Someday.....

stuck solenoid example 1

N89 stuck off...
The n89 solenoid turns on the B2 clutch and is on in 2nd and 4th. So if you drive the car and it shifts 1-3 with no 2nd and 4th you might assume the n89 is stuck off. The complicating factor here is you could also have the B2 clutch inop and it might behave this way also.

N89 stuck on...
Lets say you drive the car and it starts in 2nd when it should be in 1st and does nothing when it should change to 2nd, and shifts to 4th when it should shift to 3rd then you could assume the solenoid is stuck on.

stuck solenoid example 2
Engine dies when you place it in gear. You could assume the torque converter clutch solenoid (n91) is stuck on. When the n91 sticks only ON slightly it might not kill the engine when placed in gear, but only "drag down" or "lug" the engine when placed in gear. In the situation where it was only sticking ON slightly you would be able to drive it and as you drive it the TCC would be ON or partially ON when it shouldn't be and it would "Lug" the engine, clunk the shifts, make things vibrate and shake at lower rpm, and may even rattle the whole car.

If the TCC solenoid (n91) were stuck off then the TCC would not work and it would probably trigger a P0740 or 01192 code. Unfortunately, the torque converter clutch not working is most commonly caused by wear in the a valve body, but certainly you can try the solenoid first if you have this problem. Please note that if your solenoid is sticking it will probably stick in the off position sometimes and it would probably stick in the on position other times. This is one "partial" way you might be able to differentiate whether a 740 code is being caused by the solenoid sticking or by wear in the VB. Note: this isn't 100% conclusive.

stuck solenoid example 3
The n93 solenoid controls pressure. This pressure can be easily monitored on a pressure gauge hooked into the tap on the trans. If the n93 were to stick in the high pressure position you would see it was high on the gauge it would cause harsh shifts. If the n93 were to stick in the low pressure position you could see it on the gauge, and it would be too soft shifts and would probably burn up the trans very rapidly.

I get lots of emails saying "how do I tell if its the solenoid" and I refer them to this thread. But they still want more info. Alot of times I say, "you sometimes just have to try it" if you think you have a sticking solenoid, but they will want some "easy test" to know whether its the solenoid or not. Well it just aint that easy. The following is "the advanced method" for seeing if a specific solenoid is stuck.

Advanced Stuck Solenoid Diagnosis"

First of all you would have to have a theory on which solenoid is stuck. You would get this theory by knowing the solenoids functions and theorizing which one might be sticking "laymens method" from above. Then you would have to own an oscilloscope and a inductive amp clamp. And of course you would have to know how to use it.

You get out your wiring schematic, find either a ground wire or power wire to a specific solenoid that has no other activity on it. It would be preferred to do this test while driving the car using the solenoid "in operation". But if you cant do this then you could do it with jumper wires. Jumper wires isn't as good of a check though because a solenoid can stick intermittently, and if your driving the car you can know when its sticking and when its not.

Ok so you clamp the power or ground wire. your set up the scope, and then drive the car or cycle the solenoid with your jumper wire, and this is what you should see.

Now unfortunately this isn't a 01m solenoid, the transmission was a GM 4t65E that comes in Impalas, monte carlos and other GM front wheel drive cars, but the principal is the same. There will be some differences especially in the amount of amperage that the solenoid will draw, but all solenoids will behave this way, including EGR solenoids, boost solenoids, EVAP solenoids, transmission solenoids and most injectors.

Here is a amp pattern of a stuck solenoid. Same transmission as from above.

Now there is a very minor inductive "hump" in the ramp but not enough to show the "pintle" moving. The 1st currant ramp picture was actually taken after replacing the stuck solenoid. Disregard the differences in the "scale" of the picture as I had the settings different. The amp draw is irrelevant anyway as the only thing your concerned with is the "inductive hump". If you had a solenoid trouble code you might be concerned with amp draw but the only time you would go this far with a solenoid diagnosis is if it was a intermittent problem.

Please don't ask me if there is an easier way, or if there is a way that you can tell without owning a 2000 dollar oscilloscope. Also don't ask if you can do this by checking amperage with a DVOM, cuz you cant.

Now I have to say that I do this check very infrequently as I use the "laymens method" described above. I used the inductive amp clamp on a scope technique on this 4T65E transmission because if you want to "try replacing the solenoid" on the 4t65E then you have to pull the subframe and, pull the side cover which is no easy task. So on this one I wanted to be absolutely sure. Usually to do this check, by the time you look up the schematic, find a good place to put your amp clamp, hook up the scope and make the decision, you could have all ready changed the solenoid on the 01m.

3rd method "Musical solenoids"

So if your thinking you have sticky solenoid and the "laymens method" above isn't clear, then you can do what I do sometimes and I've come to call it "musical solenoids" (think musical chairs). You simply pull the pan, and move each solenoid to a different location. Keep track of how you move them so you can know and evaluate the problem based on the way the trans works with the "suspect" solenoid in its 2nd location vs in its 1st location.

But thats a whole lot of work you say?... so what? Its free! Just drain the oil into a container, reuse the filter and pan gasket, and dump the original fluid back in. Or you can use this as a good time to change the fluid. Seems everyone thinks changing fluid might fix their problem (wishful thinking) so as soon as they notice anything their knee-jerk reaction is to change the fluid. I'm ok with this as long as you inspect the bottom of the pan with a flashlight and break open the filter looking for metal.

If you don't like the amount of work that Musical solenoids entails then you can certainly do "advanced solenoid diagnosis" or run up to your local dealer and pay their diagnosis fee to tell you it needs a trans (whether it does or not).

So in review... its just not easy. It takes lots of specialized knowledge (operation of the solenoids, how to use a scope, how to read wiring schematics) and some special tools (scope with amp clamp). Even when the cars are here sometimes you just have to try it to see. Sometimes it will fix it but sometimes not.

Replacing transmission solenoids in a 01m.

I get asked this a lot. The main thing you need to know on a 01m is that YOU DON'T NEED TO PULL THE VALVE BODY TO CHANGE YOUR SOLENOIDS". I get an email with this question at least once a week.
Changing 01m solenoids is super easy and on most cars (with missing belly pan) I can change them lightning fast. But most people are going to want to do the correct check procedure and that requires some method of checking temperature so you'll need vagcom.

thank you for your in debt details
I am also trying to diagnose a p0740 code
the 01 jetta hesitates going into gear this is at the time of putting it in gear as well as when I come to a stop then move my foot to the gas pedal there is a hesitation then, it is like popping the clutch on a manual low rpm but noticable non the less.
then occasionally at 55-65 i notice the engine rpms move up a few hundred without accelerating the vehicle the light seems to come on when this happens.

the entire transmission was rebuilt 3 yrs 40k ago the car sat for about 3 months due to needing an alternator and tires. then when I put the car on the road this issue comes up. I am not willing to spend the money on another transmission rebuild, I would try the solonoid but it sounds like from your post there is a leaking valve body, and hate to even spend the money on that part, but if you think it is worth buying the solonoid I will give it a try.
any advice is greatly appreciated
Thanks
Keith Steel

I had this same problem on a used trans that I put in our
02 Beetle. When I put it in drive it wouldn't go in to gear until I gave it some throttle then it would go into gear and go. same thing at stop lights and stop signs. Also when going up hills the rpm would jump 200 rpm then go back down very quickly. There were no codes being thrown so I decided to take the valve body from my transmission that I pulled from the car and put it in the used trans and it solved both of these problems. Maybe a rebuilt valvebody would help your trans.

for the hesitation going into gear (delayed engagement) you should check the fluid level. If it goes into gear you'll probably just have to live with it. If you have to "give it some gas" to make it "bump" into gear then you should probably start budgeting for a trans.

thanks guys I kinda guessed the trans upgrade was comming will be doing 5 speed swap just sucks since the trans was completely rebuilt 40k ago and they swore all the common problems would not show up again.
any idea on how long before it just doesnt go into gear anymore or starts slipping to the point the car is unsafe to drive?

Just an update we have put nearly 2000 miles on this automatic, and so far so good. This is what I did..

Changed fluid and filter twice within 500 miles. Then on the second fluid change replaced about 1/2 litre of the G52 trans fluid with a 50/50 mixture of Trans X and Lucus trans additive.
Now after 1500 miles of very mixed driving the trans temp is 15-20 degrees cooler than it was and the daily check engine light has stayed off for 2 weeks stright now!

The slipping was getting worse everyday and now has not changed the last 2 weeks. It still hesitates going into 1st. and slips going up hills at speed.

I am not selling this as a fix for the automatic. The 5speed swap will still happen but at least right now we have time to get all the parts together, and still be able to driver our daily driver.

well... I would like to thank you for this post, it's a very very complete and useful info.... but I have some cuestions, if a car is driven with a low level of ATF, this can cause sensors or soilenoids to fail??