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Sorry, you're right. I had been using the wrong nomenclature. I have a L7 valve that was stock on my gun, and just bought a used X Valve. It appears that the old on/off assembly will not work, because the slot for it in the X Valve is threaded, and slightly narrower.

The on-off assembly sizes are the same for classic or xvalve/retro valves. Only the pins and assembly internals are different. Except for the way they work, they are interchangeable size-wise.

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

I have a Tac One that has been leaking out of the barrel basically since I got it shortly after Christmas. At first it would stop once I adjusted the carrier down a size but once I fired a handfull of shots it started leaking again leading me to belive it was just breaking in. Last time I played with it it started to leak with the smallest carrier on it. Today I fianlly had the time to swap out all the O-Rings and try different carrier and shim combinations and I havent had any luck, I cant even get it to stop for those handful of shots I used to get out of it.

I really would like to get this thing working before Castle Conquest next weekend if anyone has any ideas before I finally break down and send it to AGD for fixin.

I have a Tac One that has been leaking out of the barrel basically since I got it shortly after Christmas. At first it would stop once I adjusted the carrier down a size but once I fired a handfull of shots it started leaking again leading me to belive it was just breaking in. Last time I played with it it started to leak with the smallest carrier on it. Today I fianlly had the time to swap out all the O-Rings and try different carrier and shim combinations and I havent had any luck, I cant even get it to stop for those handful of shots I used to get out of it.

I really would like to get this thing working before Castle Conquest next weekend if anyone has any ideas before I finally break down and send it to AGD for fixin.

-B-

Remove all the powertube shims when tuning the level 10. Now try to find the largest carrier that doesn't leak. If it still leaks, even with a carrier that is too tight and causes bolt stick, then change the carrier oring and retune.

OK so it leaks with no shims, the smallest carrier, and all three O-Rings.

I have no idea what the rail bushing is so please forgive my newbness but I'm 99% certain everything went back together the way I took it apart.

I also noticed this week while testing and tinkering that my tank does have a small leak in, PMI tank from the reg as always, is it possible this is affecting the marker?

3 days till I need it up and running.

The rail bushing is an insert that fits in the hole at the back of the rail where the field strip screw holds the valve in place. Without this bushing, the valve won't sit in the proper location. It definately could cause your problems if it is missing.

One of my level 10 springs snapped while I was shooting, not sure how. So where can I get a replacement????
Thanks! MPRoberts0@aol.com

Rarely happens, but has been known to. You can buy new ones through dealers that carry AGD products or from AGD directly. You should have a couple of spares anyway along with spare orings for the valve. The springs are consumable and need to replaced periodically anyway.

I just received my lvl 10 kit and went through a whole 68ci tank tuning it in so it dosent leak. It passed the squigie test and the bolt also stopped when i stuck my finger in there but as soon as i put paint in it, it turned into a super soaker within 20 rounds. I tried using a tighter carrier with the longer spring but there is still too much force from the bolt that breaks the ball. Also it seems not to "stop" somtimes, i learned this after i stuck my finger in there and lets say there was no LvL 10

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong

i am using the carrier with 2 lines cut, and 2 shims
also a docs machine adapter with a spyder rubber nubbin, trimmed down a little.

i also find somtimes that the bolt does not return after hitting my finger/squigie
any possible soultion?

I just received my lvl 10 kit and went through a whole 68ci tank tuning it in so it dosent leak. It passed the squigie test and the bolt also stopped when i stuck my finger in there but as soon as i put paint in it, it turned into a super soaker within 20 rounds. I tried using a tighter carrier with the longer spring but there is still too much force from the bolt that breaks the ball. Also it seems not to "stop" somtimes, i learned this after i stuck my finger in there and lets say there was no LvL 10

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong

i am using the carrier with 2 lines cut, and 2 shims
also a docs machine adapter with a spyder rubber nubbin, trimmed down a little.

i also find somtimes that the bolt does not return after hitting my finger/squigie
any possible soultion?

Use the proper carrier size, not the tighter one. That is the reason it is not resetting for you.

It sounds like you had your level 10 properly set up. If you can fire and it resets on your finger, then you are good to go. Paint breaking is most likely bad paint and/or a barrel id that is too tight. If you are using a barrel adapter, that is probably the problem. They have a tendency to be small in the bore.

I just received my lvl 10 kit and went through a whole 68ci tank tuning it in so it dosent leak. It passed the squigie test and the bolt also stopped when i stuck my finger in there but as soon as i put paint in it, it turned into a super soaker within 20 rounds. I tried using a tighter carrier with the longer spring but there is still too much force from the bolt that breaks the ball. Also it seems not to "stop" somtimes, i learned this after i stuck my finger in there and lets say there was no LvL 10

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong

i am using the carrier with 2 lines cut, and 2 shims
also a docs machine adapter with a spyder rubber nubbin, trimmed down a little.

i also find somtimes that the bolt does not return after hitting my finger/squigie
any possible soultion?

Use the proper carrier size, not the tighter one. That is the reason it is not resetting for you.

It sounds like you had your level 10 properly set up. If you can fire and it resets on your finger, then you are good to go. Paint breaking is most likely bad paint and/or a barrel id that is too tight. If you are using a barrel adapter, that is probably the problem. They have a tendency to be small in the bore.

Use the proper carrier size, not the tighter one. That is the reason it is not resetting for you.

It sounds like you had your level 10 properly set up. If you can fire and it resets on your finger, then you are good to go. Paint breaking is most likely bad paint and/or a barrel id that is too tight. If you are using a barrel adapter, that is probably the problem. They have a tendency to be small in the bore.

thank you, it took me 500 more rounds but i finally got it tuned in. I also convinced my field to change paint, because apparently i was'nt the only one having problems, it seems this paint company put "white box" paint in fancy boxes and marked TOURNAMENT GRADE on the side. But no fear after buying some RPS all star i could actually run accurate tests and now the thing shoots like a dream even with the "tournament grade" shatty field paint.

a little help

I have the X valve and level 10 installed in my marker. this x valve I transplanted from one marker to another, I dont have the old one anymore. However it worked fine in the old body and rail. Since I have changed it into the new body, The bolt dosent quite seat all the way back anymore, it is slightly forward, and leaks heavily down the barrell. I have tried changing springs but when I manage to get it to fire with w heavier spring, it leaks. It stops leaking when I hold the trigger down if I manually re seat the bolt. I have changed the or rings in the on off assembly with no avai-

okay I started over from scratch- wiht all new level 10 parts and fixed it- it was the o-ring that was bad and I had to go to the smallest carrier- but its not leaking, the bolt is not forward and its working.

I have the X valve and level 10 installed in my marker. this x valve I transplanted from one marker to another, I dont have the old one anymore. However it worked fine in the old body and rail. Since I have changed it into the new body, The bolt dosent quite seat all the way back anymore, it is slightly forward, and leaks heavily down the barrell. I have tried changing springs but when I manage to get it to fire with w heavier spring, it leaks. It stops leaking when I hold the trigger down if I manually re seat the bolt. I have changed the or rings in the on off assembly with no avai-

okay I started over from scratch- wiht all new level 10 parts and fixed it- it was the o-ring that was bad and I had to go to the smallest carrier- but its not leaking, the bolt is not forward and its working.

Also, remove the shims. They may be exposing the vent hole making it leak when it normally wouldn't.

Sorry if this was posted already, but I think I have a combo of some of the above probs. I'm new to mags...coming from an F2 Illustrator...big leap!

NEWLY acquired Micromag with a minimag valve and level 10, all look barely used.
Longest of 3 springs is installed. The middle spring is NOT cut, it is red colored...
Running CO2 (my HPA is being hydro'd) on a remote.

Velocity started above 300, so adjusted it down.
Erratic velocity, but got more stable after a few rounds.
Stuck rubbery barrel squeegee in feed port to test anti-chop, that worked fine 10 times.
BUT, after removing squeegee, bolt would not go forward fully and just chuffed.
That reminded me that the gun prob needed oiling, so added 4 drops of oil into the valve inlet and fired. No change...chuff chuff and bolt didn't go fully forward.
Then, after 15 more times, nothing...trigger moved but nothing happened...

After sitting overnight, gun fires but velocity is inconsistent still.

Help! Want to use the new gun this Sunday!
Is this a combination of problems?
I'm guessing: larger carrier AND middle-length (red) spring? Why isn't my mid-length spring cut?

Sorry if this was posted already, but I think I have a combo of some of the above probs. I'm new to mags...coming from an F2 Illustrator...big leap!

Have you tuned the Lvl 10 from scratch?

Oil your o-ring, put it into the 2.0 carrier (2 lines, no dots), slide it onto the bolt stem and attempt to dangle the bolt (you are holding the carrier while trying this). If the bolt slips off the carrier from its own weight, go to a smaller carrier. Use the largest carrier that will not allow the bolt to slip off using this test. Do not add any shims yet. Oil everything, assemble, and break in the o-ring by shooting out a tank of air (Note 1). After doing this, you may need to change carriers and use the next smallest. Now, start adding shims one at a time until it leaks down the barrel. Take the shim out. You are ready to go.

NOTE 1: With CO2 I would shoot out about a 9 oz tank of CO2, but do it at a steady pace. Do not let the marker get freezing, because you will change the fit of the o-ring.

I always use either the red spring (they started making a red middle length spring, rather than cutting down the longer springs) or the long silver spring. Neither of those should affect tuning the Lvl 10. One thing that might is if you get liquid CO2 into the marker, but that should not be the case with a remote.

Badmovies, that was nice advice and I thought that would fix it...but no...
Basically, I went from a 0 to a 1.5 carrier (2.0 was loose).
Same issue, fired a few dozen, then it started chuffing sometimes, then every time, then the trigger did NOTHING.
I'm positive if I try it again in a few hours, it'll fire again, but with the same degradation.
Maybe not a level 10 issue? I'll post in the tech section as well.

Originally Posted by Badmovies.org

Have you tuned the Lvl 10 from scratch?

Oil your o-ring, put it into the 2.0 carrier (2 lines, no dots), slide it onto the bolt stem and attempt to dangle the bolt (you are holding the carrier while trying this). If the bolt slips off the carrier from its own weight, go to a smaller carrier. Use the largest carrier that will not allow the bolt to slip off using this test. Do not add any shims yet. Oil everything, assemble, and break in the o-ring by shooting out a tank of air (Note 1). After doing this, you may need to change carriers and use the next smallest. Now, start adding shims one at a time until it leaks down the barrel. Take the shim out. You are ready to go.

NOTE 1: With CO2 I would shoot out about a 9 oz tank of CO2, but do it at a steady pace. Do not let the marker get freezing, because you will change the fit of the o-ring.

I always use either the red spring (they started making a red middle length spring, rather than cutting down the longer springs) or the long silver spring. Neither of those should affect tuning the Lvl 10. One thing that might is if you get liquid CO2 into the marker, but that should not be the case with a remote.

Sorry if this was posted already, but I think I have a combo of some of the above probs. I'm new to mags...coming from an F2 Illustrator...big leap!

NEWLY acquired Micromag with a minimag valve and level 10, all look barely used.
Longest of 3 springs is installed. The middle spring is NOT cut, it is red colored...
Running CO2 (my HPA is being hydro'd) on a remote.

Velocity started above 300, so adjusted it down.
Erratic velocity, but got more stable after a few rounds.
Stuck rubbery barrel squeegee in feed port to test anti-chop, that worked fine 10 times.
BUT, after removing squeegee, bolt would not go forward fully and just chuffed.
That reminded me that the gun prob needed oiling, so added 4 drops of oil into the valve inlet and fired. No change...chuff chuff and bolt didn't go fully forward.
Then, after 15 more times, nothing...trigger moved but nothing happened...

After sitting overnight, gun fires but velocity is inconsistent still.

Help! Want to use the new gun this Sunday!
Is this a combination of problems?
I'm guessing: larger carrier AND middle-length (red) spring? Why isn't my mid-length spring cut?

Thanks! I love my new mag, even though it isn't working

As mentioned, use the middle spring instead of the longer one. Don't forget to adjust the velocity so that it is high enough to properly cycle the marker. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Don't use any shims when setting up the level 10. Make sure the sear is not worn at the tip. It may allow the bolt to sit forward and require you to use a carrier that is too tight in order to keep it from leaking.

If the above doesn't work, try the shortest spring.

Make sure the trigger rod isn't touching the back of the trigger when the gun is gassed up and the trigger is forward.

Level 10 leak

I have a level 10 on a Retro Valve mounted on a classic rail with a Y grip. Several times per session the valve begins to leak slowly and this usually is solved by taking a few more shots. The leak is in the barrel area. It's really not a problem except if the lead develops when there is a long pause, like between games and I cannot shoot the marker to stop the leak. Any ideas?
CRichter

I have a level 10 on a Retro Valve mounted on a classic rail with a Y grip. Several times per session the valve begins to leak slowly and this usually is solved by taking a few more shots. The leak is in the barrel area. It's really not a problem except if the lead develops when there is a long pause, like between games and I cannot shoot the marker to stop the leak. Any ideas?
CRichter

First, remove a shim or two from the powertube. If that doesn't solve your problem, then go to the next smaller carrier using the same powertube oring. Your problem should go away.

Perhaps someone could assist -
I am installing a Level 10 kit on my classic. I cannot seem to find a carrier that, with the o-ring installed, is anywhere near "snug" on the bolt stem ... even the smallest one is still loose. Sure enough when I install and gas to check for carrier fitment, it leaks massively when the trigger is released.

Perhaps someone could assist -
I am installing a Level 10 kit on my classic. I cannot seem to find a carrier that, with the o-ring installed, is anywhere near "snug" on the bolt stem ... even the smallest one is still loose. Sure enough when I install and gas to check for carrier fitment, it leaks massively when the trigger is released.

Make sure all the shims are removed before you try the carrier and oring. If the smallest carrier is still too loose with the current oring, try another oring.

automag rt ule newb

NEWB
I just bought a used automag rt ule lvl 10 x valve HPA..
I cleaned oiled and put the gun back together straight, attempted chronographing my gun and it shoots nice then after a little while it stops cocking or reloading (like there is no pressure in the gun). The tank is not empty, I tried reading the manual and some posts but I have no clue..?

One other thing, that little black foamie thing fell off the front of the lvl 10.. ??

NEWB
I just bought a used automag rt ule lvl 10 x valve HPA..
I cleaned oiled and put the gun back together straight, attempted chronographing my gun and it shoots nice then after a little while it stops cocking or reloading (like there is no pressure in the gun). The tank is not empty, I tried reading the manual and some posts but I have no clue..?

One other thing, that little black foamie thing fell off the front of the lvl 10.. ??

Thanks.

When you pull the trigger is there any resistance or is it completely loose, as if not gassed? My first guess is bolt stick and that you need to tune the Lvl 10 or replace your bolt spring. Get a new red spring and replace the bolt spring. As for tuning the Lvl 10:

Oil your o-ring, put it into the 2.0 carrier (2 lines, no dots), slide it onto the bolt stem and attempt to dangle the bolt (you are holding the carrier while trying this). If the bolt slips off the carrier from its own weight, go to a smaller carrier. Use the largest carrier that will not allow the bolt to slip off using this test. Do not add any shims yet. Oil everything, assemble, and break in the o-ring by shooting out a tank of air. After doing this, you may need to change carriers and use the next smallest. Now, start adding shims one at a time until it leaks down the barrel. Take a shim out. You are ready to go.

Losing the foamie is no big deal, but you can buy a pack of new ones. Tunamart.com and TheMagSmith.com carry them (along with bolt springs).

NEWB
I just bought a used automag rt ule lvl 10 x valve HPA..
I cleaned oiled and put the gun back together straight, attempted chronographing my gun and it shoots nice then after a little while it stops cocking or reloading (like there is no pressure in the gun). The tank is not empty, I tried reading the manual and some posts but I have no clue..?

One other thing, that little black foamie thing fell off the front of the lvl 10.. ??

Thanks.

Sounds like bolt stick. Use the next larger carrier. Do this without any shims installed.