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Friday, 25 September 2009

You might have noticed that the Menswear Day shows were a little light on colour as many designers delivered a surprisingly dark, industrial, almost sombre colour palette. Too many depressing summers in this country maybe? Not for Satyenkumar. His collection was a kaleidoscopic travel through a lens! Inspired by sunset to sunrise, with background sounds from the Petshop Boys' Domino and underground Acid/Chicago being huge influences. Anyone hoping to bathe in the sun on a beach somewhere next summer would surely love this collection of colourful, lightweight tailoring.

There were colour accents and blocks, in dominating base tones of grey and nude to explosive Azure, Coral and lavender with hints of tie-dye inspired prints and transparencies. I was fortunate enough to go backstage and take a few close up shots of the vibrant colour. It might have been a typical September afternoon in London but examining Satyen's colourful craftsmanship transported me to an Ibiza beach at sunset...

Satyenkumar's technicolour dream coat.

This season focusses on sharp tailoring worn with enviable ease and a timeless yet modern hybrid of classics. Seemingly weightless outwear, jean inspired trousers and pyjama shorts, sheer/dense mix shirts, rainbow-patchworked vests and featherlight unlined blazers in Swiss Voile, Habotai and Tulle. A true celebration of colour and lightweight tailoiring.

Jean inspired trousers with contrasting waistbands.

Satyenkumar is a designer who has always quietly gone about his business of creating quality tailored causal wear for the modern eccentric English playboys, almost going unnoticed at times. Daniel Jenkins has been stocking Satyen's designs for a few seasons now and has frequently reminded me of his talents. I certainly think we'll be hearing a lot more about him after watching this show and deservedly so. Here is to a Spring Summer of sunshine and colour!

I've never understood these things---not one of these people (or any other male runway model I've ever seen) is dressed or even groomed in a manner appropriate for any human being with a Y chromosome. It's sick and wrong, straight up. About what am I supposed to be impressed? That you make ugly clothes in fancy colors? That'll be the day.

Ian Brown: Welcome back, I've missed you, where the devil have you been?Mat: Mine too. Blank Label: Such bright colours would normally unnerve me but this collection was oddly soothing. Which wait/trouser combinations have you devised?Barima: Yes, if we aren't optimistic is Spring/Summer when can we be? As for Boy George's hat it was comically huge.Titus: I find your viewpoint more than a tad narrow minded. Are you serious? I concede that there are elements of this show which might not be to everyones taste but that is no reason to be dismissive of this collection even, yet you seem to tarnish the whole fashion industry with same brush.

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Style Salvage is blog about how men could (and do) dress. Started back in June 2007, the blog aims to showcase emerging and established design talent alike. It features style commentary, 7 day style diaries, interviews with designers, journalists and shop owners mixed in with the occasional personal style shot.