This is a discussion on Torque App within the Tuning: Electronic Engine Management forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Got the ELM327 this weekend. Downloaded an old version of Torque. Got it going, and it looks good. I'm now ...

Torque App

Got the ELM327 this weekend. Downloaded an old version of Torque. Got it going, and it looks good. I'm now waiting for a DroidX coming thru Ebay later this week. Then I'll load a newer version of Torque. Right now I'm using an old Android 1.5 and it shows with very little lag (like 1/10th to 1/4 of a sec). Once the Droid is here I'll be looking for mounting and such... BTW, is there a way to download the newer version without going thru the Google site, directly to PC?

just pay the 4.99 its worth every penny, you also have knock sensor with pro app. i hack all my apps, thru 4shared, but this one i actually bought iyts alot more fluid then any other cra-app version of it out there.

OK, so I got the droidX and finally downloaded the TorquePro app. It seems to be well worth the price. So I have now any instrument I might want right there. I've made a bracket with one of those monster magnets out of a hard drive and have it stuck to the front of the roof liner right above the mirror. Works superbly so far. Pics and some more comments are coming tomorrow...

Mounted with removable magnet. Set onto boost gauge in zoom. It follows the current values and auto-scrolls the instrument in the display. You can set whatever instruments up and select one of 3 sizes. Then you move them to position. THere's like 4 or 5 screens that you can utilize and switch among. The pro app has a number of graphs and logs, have not played with those yet. There is also a CEL diagnostic. It will read out the cel code, but since so far (knocking on wood) I've had no codes there is no telling how verbose the read-out would be. Accuracy seems to be good, also the speed is very good. I notice basically no lag. SO far this is by far the cheapest and best removable installation of a (really multi-function) boost gauge.

So over the weekend I had the droid connected to computer. Found torque app wouldn't run. It said app is not installed. Reinstalled. Found out that once bought it can be reloaded without additional cost, so no real issue. Then later this weekend I lost all the set up dials, when I ran it in "airplane" mode... I set them up again and had no more troubles so far.

Bought the OBD II Bluetooth Adapter and used the Engine Link Torque App. Got these readings while on the highway. I did a video screen capture. I have a 2013 Wrx hatch. No engine mods all stock. I'm waiting on my COBB AP to come in the mail. My question is, why does is show 282 HP? How accurate is this app?

It determines HP and torque from acceleration over time with the given vehicle weight. If you have the correct weight the numbers should be fairly close to real. Or if you know the real numbers you could figure out the weight... Anyways, there's units to be set, like metric/standard, us gallon vs imperial gallon vs litres, Kg vs Lb... So there's a number of variables that must be set right. Then I'd expect the results to be fairly accurate.

U lookin' at my dash ? ... When I got this car and drove it REAL easy from Denver to Col-Springs I got 45...
The car's a fairly modded, with larger turbo, larger fuel pump and injectors... The MpG are calculated from injector pulses and only halfway true with the original capacity injector at original fuel pressure. I don't even know if fuel rail pressure is still at original levels. But I do know that with every pulse on the injector there's more fuel going in than the original set-up had. My MpG's are off by a factor that is about 2/3rds so about 33MpG's is really about 21... And that's how it is...

What I meant to show in the picture is right above the rear-view mirror, the rest is gravy....

SO I messed around a bit, found that there's a bunch of selectable dials, or gauges, that there is no sensor for. Like an oil temp gauge that will not show anything at all. And the app lost it's set-up file and I had to re=set-up my gauges, lost the default ones... Now I'm looking to make a better mounting, likely still with using the magnet.

Maybe it's because I have a 2013 WRX but I can't figure out how to configure the boost gauge. Mine idles at like -22 vacuum and I never get above 0. I'm assuming there's some sort of calibration? Anyone know? There's a boost pressure setting in the profile but I don't know what the adjustment would be.

A couple more random remarks:
The Torque App needs to be properly shut down. I have lost my definitions several times due to shutting down the Android without closing the app. It seems data files get corrupted when not closed properly. This included the app itself going lost.
I found a fuel flow meter. With that I found that the fuel flow NEVER actually stops, the AFR meter confirms: during deceleration, with the engine being turned thru the gears, there is still fuel going in, just at a lower ratio. I think it's connected to keeping cat operating temps up, may also just be better for the engine. The only way fuel consumption goes to zero is to free-wheel and turn off the ignition... So I'm not concerned about going neutral versus letting gthe engine be pushed when going downhill anymore. There is no practical difference in fuel economy - unless engine is actually off. We all know that is not only illegal, it also stops the power steering and eventually the brake booster.
Currently I'm starting to look at android tablets, like a 7", since I have plenty of space above the rear view mirror. Not sure if I want to do that.

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