The
upper Vanch valley is wide and makes many bends. At each bend, fertile soil
provides support for one or two villages. The last bridge across the river is located
more than 30km downstream from the last village, Poimazar. Crossing the river,
even at the end of the summer, is quite dangerous, but a few locals do it. We
stayed on the South (left) bank of the river. We started our trek a few
kilometers West of Poimazar, skirted the bottom of the Russian Geographic
Society glacier, and followed the Abdukagor river for a few kilometers. We then
turned back and returned to Langar village. From there we went up the canyon of
the Langardara river toward Langar pass. We turned back just below Langar pass
and ended our trek in Ghumash village.

After
descending from Langar Pass, we stayed 2 days in Ghumash village, waiting for
our car. The people’s hospitality there was overwhelming. We were invited in
almost every house of the village for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Some
people of Ghumash village

Typical
ceiling in a Pamiri home (in Gumash). It is made of four square layers, each
representing one of the four Zoroastrian elements (earth, water, air and fire).