"Every restaurant benefits from a story, and the mystique of The Thomas tops just about anything in the Bay Area.

For more than 40 years, the weathered red neon Fagiani's sign hung over the red and blue tiled building in downtown Napa, but the bar remained shuttered even as the dining scene in Napa exploded."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"Every restaurant benefits from a story, and the mystique of...

&quot;Every restaurant benefits from a story, and the mystique... Photo-3725998.52318 - SFGate

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"The bar is now vibrantly alive. While it looks as if it never closed, the cocktails are 21st century creations, and the entire space has an electric vibe."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"The bar is now vibrantly alive. While it looks as if it never...

&quot;The bar is now vibrantly alive. While it looks as if it... Photo-3725999.52318 - SFGate

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"To get to the dining areas, which seat about 125, patrons walk up a narrow staircase (there is an elevator in back for other access) into a room with an open kitchen framed by a subway tile arch and fronted with a raw bar filled with fresh vegetables from the restaurant's garden at Copia."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"To get to the dining areas, which seat about 125, patrons...

&quot;To get to the dining areas, which seat about 125, patrons... Photo-3726000.52318 - SFGate

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"The third floor includes a second bar and a great patio that looks over the Napa River and the rolling hills and mountains beyond."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"The third floor includes a second bar and a great patio that...

&quot;The third floor includes a second bar and a great patio... Photo-3726001.52318 - SFGate

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"Chef de cuisine Jason Kupper, who has worked at Thomas Keller and Charlie Palmer restaurants, is orchestrating the eclectic American menu, under the guidance of executive chef Brad Farmerie."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"Chef de cuisine Jason Kupper, who has worked at Thomas Keller...

&quot;Chef de cuisine Jason Kupper, who has worked at Thomas... Photo-3726002.52318 - SFGate

"Heirloom tomato salad ($12) is mounded onto a thick slice of toast slathered with a ricotta yogurt spread and then topped with several types of tomatoes and little balls of mozzarella; interest comes in the tiny basil sprouts and the green jelly-like seeds splattered over the top."

"Roasted half chicken ($24) is tucked into a cast-iron casserole and served on a cutting board with a napkin. It looks pretty, especially with the wedges of orange skin, charred fennel and whole cherry tomatoes, but it's difficult to eat and there is so much grease pooled in the bottom of the dish that the combination ends up tasting tired and sloppy."

"And that seems to be the problem with The Thomas: Good intentions are evident, but the execution often goes awry."

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

"And that seems to be the problem with The Thomas: Good...

&quot;And that seems to be the problem with The Thomas: Good... Photo-3726006.52318 - SFGate

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"Wood-grilled salmon ($29) was beautifully cooked, and the precisely cut slaw of fennel and green apple, mixed with pistachio, was an unexpected addition, but chunks of avocado added nothing to the blend."

"Roasted bone marrow ($13) was also beautiful, with the Parmesan-crusted bone propped on a cutting board, a refreshing cauliflower and watercress mix and a stack of brioche toast; the problem was that the bread was dry, as if it were stale."