Demna Gvasalia took creative guide at Balenciaga just around 1 yr in the past, but the designer (and Vetements co-founder) has already injected a good deal of his subversive, counter-cultural and intelligent standpoint into the storied couture residence. From off-kilter outerwear that’s generally massively oversized, asymmetrical or structural, to retro daywear that borders on tacky (like neon stocking boots and smock dresses in floral prints with clashing hues), showgoers have some plan of what they can expect every season when it arrives to new brand name signatures. For Tumble 2017, Gvasalia expanded upon what has demonstrated thriving for him on this front, and ventured more into eveningwear — exclusively, the couture silhouettes for which the label is known — albeit with his own twist.

A lot like the house’s slide menswear selection, Sunday’s display in Paris experienced a corporate slant, concentrating much on the plan of what is “business ideal” — silk blouses, pencil skirts, plaid overcoats and substantial leather-based tote bags, for case in point. But given that this is Balenciaga we are conversing about, almost nothing was taken at facial area value, and the conventions of these traditional staples ended up flipped on their heads: There ended up futuristic, superior-waisted skirts that resembled rubber car or truck mats carabiners loaded with keys fashioned into necklaces trousers with stripes up the sides like track pants cuff bracelets that recalled fine china and leather-based belts that could double as car or truck protection restraints, hinting that Gvasalia experienced a little bit of a transportation fetish this season. (Additional evidence? The carpet that doubled as the runway was striped with the Balenciaga brand.)

While Gvasalia has offered can take on formalwear in seasons past, Tumble 2017 was his most formidable outing but, and he looked to the Balenciaga archives — loaded with balloon- and cocoon-like shapes, important quantity, Spanish-impressed ruffles and much more — for a finale major with evening robes. From a traditional black range adorned with a huge bow to a halter-style white seem performed up head-to-toe in feathers, these are not pieces for the faint of coronary heart. They are, however, correctly on-brand name for the much too-neat designer who is singlehandedly driving a lot of of the industry’s most important tendencies, and we are intrigued to see if his effects will trickle on to the red carpet in the yr in advance.

See every seem from the Balenciaga Tumble 2017 selection in the gallery underneath.