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In this third and last post about the Old Italian Wines tasting, I cover the group of largely unknown wines.

Mostly Unknown

The goal of this grouping was to taste wines from unknown producers or wines of known producers without published tasting notes. I thought it was the most interesting set. The 1971 Lungarotti, Torgiano Rubesco is my favorite of this group for it is aromatic, fruity, and crisp. I should very much like to try a Riserva. From the same excellent vintage, it is not surprising that the 1971 Giovanni Scanavino, Barolo Riserva drinks well. What is surprising is that the 1961 Molinelli Giuseppe, Valtidone Gutturnio will outlive all of the wines we tasted. This is a zippy, red fruited wine given life by the acidity. It is bottled in heavy, substantial glass. From the same vintage I also enjoyed the more linear 1961 Cantine di Venosa, Aglianico del Vulture, Riserva Enoselezone. It is a dry wine with sappy acidity and a foxy note. While it will not develop further it is very much alive. By far the oldest Sangiovese I have tasted is the 1949 Fattorie del Piceno, Cantine di Montefano, Montefano Sangiovese “Dry”, Rosso Piceno Extra. This is a label created just one year prior to the vintage. I thought the wine had faded off but then it came back to life and hung around for a few days. It is a gentle old wine with interest from the menthol and old leather.

In the end, the average quality of the wines tasted, as well as the peak quality did not match those we tried at An exploratory tasting of mature Nebbiolo 1975-1954. This is not surprising. However, the oldest wines tasted, made from Raboso, Aglianico, Barbera, and Sangioviese (!) while simpler in flavor than Piemonte wines, certainly have longevity. I can imagine these wines lending life-lengthening qualities to the Alto-Piemonte bottles we tasted before.

1971 Giovanni Scanavino, Barolo Riserva
Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 13%. Concentrated aromas of sweaty, sweet old fruit on the nose. In the mouth spearmint greats. This wine still has grip and structure with sweet mint, slightly racy in the middle, bits of minerals and lipsticky finish. Watering acidity throughout. Holds up well. ** Now but will last.

1971 M. Mascarello, Nebbiolo d’Alba
Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 12%. Not right compared to other bottles of this wine. Not rated.

1971 Ricasoli, Chianti
Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 12%. Tart, simple, and short with wood notes. Not undrinkable, rather a survivor of very simple flavor. * Now.

1971 Lungarotti, Torgiano Rubesco
Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 12%. A light to medium color. Sweet, concentrated aromas on the nose of old wine then it freshens up with air. Still fruity in the start with a fresh personality, old-school flavors in the middle, and a crispy finish. Satisfying. *** Now.

1966 Cantina Sociale Ponte di Piave, Raboso PiaveCantina Sociale Ponte di Piave was founded in 1948 by a small group of winemakers trying to survive during the tough postwar years. A new facility was built in 1955 and by 1964, there were more than 360 members of the cooperative. Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 13%. Nuts on the nose. Plenty of tart, red fruit in the mouth, acidity, still structured, and acidic end. A blood note develops. This wine drank the same for days, it appears to be true to the grape. *(*) Now but will last.

1966 Cantina Centrale Cooperativa, Cacc’e Mmitte, Riserva EnoselezoneCacc’e Mmitte, located in Puglia, is named after an ancient vinification technique where the farmhouses equipped with tanks for the crush rented them out. Tenants had to be finished by the end of their term for the next person. Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 12%. A very light, browning color. Delicate, sweet old fruit in the mouth. A gentle wine with low acidity, sweet red fruit in the finish. Appealing in a way but soft, simple, short, and solid. *(*) Now.

1961 Cantine di Venosa, Aglianico del Vulture, Riserva EnoselezoneCantine di Venosa was founded in 1957 by 25 members and today has more than 400. Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 12%. Good nose with dry, linear flavors in the mouth. Sappy acidity, a polished wood note, and dry extract. This is a good, sharp with with an attractive foxy presence. ** Now but will last.

1961 Molinelli Giuseppe, Valtidone GutturnioMost likely a blend of Barbera with Croatina (Bonardo). Guttornio is located in Emilio-Romagna. Imported by T. Elenteny. Powdery flavor with noticeable, zippy acidity, and red cranberry flavors. There is a firm wood note. In amazing shape, the red flavors match the zippy, crisp nature. Drank well for hours. ** Now – 2028.

1949 Fattorie del Piceno, Cantine di Montefano, Montefano Sangiovese “Dry”, Rosso Piceno ExtraThe “Cantine di Montefano” brand was registered in 1948. Montefano is located in the Marche. Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 12-13%. Dry and linear but dimension comes from dry extract. Solid and initially appears to not hold up but then it breathes back to life. Hints of menthol mix with finely textured red fruit and leather. Modest body. ** Now.

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