Description

This is a new route in between Fantasia and Pick Pocket (aka Man-tasia). Start on a giant, leaning flake and climb up a crack system, then move right on to face sequences. There is a great no-hands rest halfway.

This really is one of the best 5.10s at Shelf. Great movement on good rock with nice stances and increasingly more difficult climbing as you go. Watch out for the microwave-sized Death Block near the last bolt. It is completely detached and is being held in there by nothing but dirt. It would be a public service to trundle that thing before it comes off unexpectedly and crashes into the belayer, dog, or toddler cage that may be staged below the route. It is easy enough to avoid but be careful!

Did a chunk come off of this route just below the anchors, to the right? Looks like there's something missing up there, and sure felt like it, too. Doesn't look like it was the block Aeon mentioned, but does look like a recent rockfall.

Full ton of fun, though I give it a 10b--felt at least a grade easier, less committing, than Blackman's just around the corner. (Though I went far left, where the chalk runs, at the anchors. Did I cheat?)