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My cooking specialty has been Sichuan food since 1980, when I purchased Mrs. Chiang's Szechwan Cookbook, seeking to master the complex, spicy and aromatic cuisine. My children were raised on chopsticks, my Filipino wife converted to their use. Updated in 1987, the wonderful 1976 cookbook featured real home or peasant cooking. Refreshingly purist in approach, it encouraged readers to omit an ingredient before using an inferior one. Since then, I have sought out the most authentic Sichuan food from New York to San Francisco, from Manila to Kowloon — just about everywhere except the province of Sichuan itself, colloquially known as the "heavenly country," which...

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My cooking specialty has been Sichuan food since 1980, when I purchased Mrs. Chiang's Szechwan Cookbook, seeking to master the complex, spicy and aromatic cuisine. My children were raised on chopsticks, my Filipino wife converted to their use.
Updated in...