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So after you blow the LP gauge on the Matheson regulator, you dunk the replacement regulator in water to find the leak.

You know there a chance that the leak was somewhere else and by dunking the regulator in water, you just created a bigger leak. Because you know, freezing Co2 gas and water isn't like combing chocolate and ice cream.

If that sellers refunds you, you put "A++++ EBAY seller!!!! BEST EVER" on the feedback.

I didn't blow the LPG on the Matheson. That regulator leaked between the high pressure side and the low pressure side, pegging the LPG when the output was blocked with the shutoff valve. I had removed and resealed all the connections to low pressure side, including swapping LPG's in case the leak was in the gauge on the Concoa before dunking it. The only CO2 feeding it was what was trapped in stage 1 of the regulator which was just open enough to move the needle. Since Bettatail already said that rebuilding them is not worth it I just want to see where the leak really was.

05-31-2014 05:07 AM

FlyingHellFish

So after you blow the LP gauge on the Matheson regulator, you dunk the replacement regulator in water to find the leak.

You know there a chance that the leak was somewhere else and by dunking the regulator in water, you just created a bigger leak. Because you know, freezing Co2 gas and water isn't like combing chocolate and ice cream.

If that sellers refunds you, you put "A++++ EBAY seller!!!! BEST EVER" on the feedback.

I removed the pressure relief valve and replaced with a plug. Still no go. Then I replaced the LPG with one from the Matheson dud and still leaking. So in desperation I dunked the regulator handle and front half of the regulator in water and found the leak. It's between the front half of the regulator and the main body. I'll see if the seller will refund this one.

05-31-2014 04:09 AM

VintonC

I removed the pressure relief valve and replaced with a plug. Still no go. Then I replaced the LPG with one from the Matheson dud and still leaking. So in desperation I dunked the regulator handle and front half of the regulator in water and found the leak. It's between the front half of the regulator and the main body. I'll see if the seller will refund this one.

05-30-2014 05:01 PM

FlyingHellFish

If you guys find that your adjustment knob can be removed, you have have the "lock-nut" and it's a great design! You can adjust the adjustment knob,

You can set a maximum pressure or a maximum low pressure, either way its great and I love them Matheson.

A moment of silence for your Matheson 3120 series

Note: Here is something that could happen but never will happen.

The seller remove the lock nut and set it at a high value, 100 psi or so. Buyer goes to turn the handle so his LP gauge doesn't blow and think it's completely off.

Good bye LP gauge... especially if it's 30 max or something. Fortunately that only ruin the LP gauge and not the regulator.

Anyways, I was successful in a cloning process for my Praxair regulators, it required an exchange of fancy printed paper.

you said you fully close the handle. do you mean fully release the handle? turning it counter clockwise. do you check the relief valve on the bottom?

Yes, when I said closed I meant fully counter clockwise. I didn't check the relief valve. Isn't it only on the high pressure side? I have another 1/4" NPT plug I could replace it with.

I really want to build my own setup but spinning the ebay wheel to get a working regulator body stinks.

05-30-2014 06:02 AM

flowerfishs

you said you fully close the handle. do you mean fully release the handle? turning it counter clockwise. do you check the relief valve on the bottom?

05-30-2014 03:55 AM

VintonC

I guess I'm having really bad luck. I bought an Concoa 315-311 two stage from the same seller on [Ebay Link Removed] He gave me a full refund for the original Matheson 3122 that was bad.

When I tested step 1 on the Concoa 315 it held full pressure for a couple of days. Now I'm on step two and it charges to 100 psi fine but as soon as I close the regulator handle it drops pressure and continues to do so until it is 0 within a minute or two of fully closing the handle. I tried soap and water and couldn't find any leaks so I went ahead and removed and redid the connections for the Tee fitting the comes out of the low pressure port and holds the LPG and a second port for the low pressure output. I had a valve from the Matheson on there so to rule it out I installed a 1/4" NPT plug. Still same results. Any suggestions?

05-18-2014 01:30 AM

Bettatail

rebuild cost too much, find another one.

05-18-2014 01:29 AM

VintonC

So should I just find another regulator on fleabay or does it make sense to try and rebuild it?

I think I may have just learned an expensive lesson. I bought a Matheson 3122 over a month ago and I just got everything together to leak test it. I jumped on it when the regulator thread was running and I took too long to get the CGA 320 nipple, tank and enough time to setup the test.

I'm a little unsure of the step 1 test. The regulator has a shutoff valve on the output. Should that be closed for step 1 testing? I closed it.

The LPG has at about 40 psi with the regulator handle turned all the way counter clockwise. About 20 minutes later I looked and the LPG is pegged. That means I have a nice paperweight, doesn't it?

update:
Should the regulator handle be turned tight counter-clockwise, like the tank shutoff or just loosely at the end of counter-clockwise travel?

poppet valve can not stop the flow of pressure co2, so second stage shot by high pressure.

for last question, some regulators have the stop nut in the handle, to prevent the handle from turning off the regulator, and the model you have is this design handle.
so counter clockwise all the way, the handle does gets tight, otherwise, the handle should be loosely and come off.

99% of the time, turn to the left(counter clockwise), once the handle is loose, it is at "shut off" position, not necessary to turn left(counter clockwise) all the way until it is tight(your regulator) or the handle come off the regulator.

05-17-2014 10:36 PM

VintonC

I think I may have just learned an expensive lesson. I bought a Matheson 3122 over a month ago and I just got everything together to leak test it. I jumped on it when the regulator thread was running and I took too long to get the CGA 320 nipple, tank and enough time to setup the test.

I'm a little unsure of the step 1 test. The regulator has a shutoff valve on the output. Should that be closed for step 1 testing? I closed it.

The LPG has at about 40 psi with the regulator handle turned all the way counter clockwise. About 20 minutes later I looked and the LPG is pegged. That means I have a nice paperweight, doesn't it?

update:
Should the regulator handle be turned tight counter-clockwise, like the tank shutoff or just loosely at the end of counter-clockwise travel?

Actually, all of the test described in the first post of this thread applies equally to single-stage regulators -- except for the note at step 2 F. Contrary to the implication in the original post, these tests aren't really designed to test each stage so much as it is to determine whether there's a leak before air regulation or after. You want the same assurances for your single-stage regulator.

Anyway, the advice you received from your vendor is not entirely bad... except it's missing a vital step. After you close the co2 tank valve, you'll want to partially close your regulator (one or two turns counter-clockwise). If you leave it for 10-15 minutes and the LP gauge reads lower (by more than 2-3 psi), then you have a leak on the LP side.

Thank you for the clarification. It's been a couple of days since I closed the valve on the CO2 tank. I left the regulator connected to the tank with the approx 800 psi reading on the HP gauge. I will repeat step 2E...

So before performing step 2E, I partially closed the regulator as you suggested. After performing step 2E I noticed the LP gauge went PAST it's maximum reading, almost to the zero position but on the right-hand side. I turned the regulator valve anticlockwise until the LP gauge registered 14.5 lbs psi. After 20 minutes the LP gauge is still reading 14.5 lbs.

So, a BIG THANK YOU, for explained the test was still valid for a single-stage regulator. And, I think your recommendation to turn the regulator anticlockwise several turns before performing step 2E is good advice. Versus step 2D which says to turn the regulator anticlockwise until there is no resistance; it was this step that set the LP gauge to zero, so when I performed step 2E there was no pressure left for the LP to "save".

Now I see how naive I am, thinking that 2 gauges indicated a 2-stage regulator. Thank you for pointing this out. So if there is only 1 stage, a 2nd stage/low-pressure test is not possible...

I never thought to ask Aquariumplants if this was a two-stage regulator

Actually, all of the test described in the first post of this thread applies equally to single-stage regulators -- except for the note at step 2 F. Contrary to the implication in the original post, these tests aren't really designed to test each stage so much as it is to determine whether there's a leak before air regulation or after. You want the same assurances for your single-stage regulator.

Anyway, the advice you received from your vendor is not entirely bad... except it's missing a vital step. After you close the co2 tank valve, you'll want to partially close your regulator (one or two turns counter-clockwise). If you leave it for 10-15 minutes and the LP gauge reads lower (by more than 2-3 psi), then you have a leak on the LP side.