This is likely going to be overkill for most people but I like nice stuff, more importantly equipment that allows for quick hassle free setup and teardown. This battery box was constructed for use in a 2013 Hobie Mirage Oasis tandem kayak. A Yuasa 12V, 7Ah SLA battery will be powering a Lowrance Elite-4 Gold fishfinder/ chartplotter which draws ~250mA @13.5V. This should easily power the Elite-4 unit for an entire day of fishing. The Pelican case is secured under the front seat with 1/4” diameter shock cord looped around the seat scuppers. This mounting arrangement prevents unnecessary holes, allows for quick setup/ removal and keeps the weight forward for solo use.

Hope this information helps in the design and construction of your own kayak battery box.

The cart scupper insert was unscrewed and trimmed ~1" to allow the Lowrance tranducer to sit further down into the hole. I trimmed the Lowrance transducer mount offset so the transducer would be centered with the recess in the hull.

This has worked out to be a really clean install. I can remove the Lowrance head unit, the RAM ball, nothing is left on the deck/ gunwale and the cable tucks into the mesh pocket. No issues or noise with the transducer placed behind the rear drive, it has a clean signal while pedaling. I have use of the temp sensor with the transducer being in the water and with a little bit of care I have not scraped or damaged the transducer to date.

I'm bumping this thread because I am going to install a spare transducer on my Outback, in a similar fashion, and wanted to be able to find your thread easily

I want to be able to easily switch my Elite-4 head unit between my two kayaks depending on which kayak I intend to use that day. Having transducers and wiring in each kayak would make this fairly easy. In comparison, I have the transducer mounted inside the hull with marine goop in my Revo 11. It will be interesting to see if the fish finder behaves better with the transducer under the kayak, exposed directly to open ocean.

I just put an Elite-4 HDI in my new Outback. I'm kind of a perfectionist (read: anal) when it comes to installing things. The RAM base was installed off center intentionally to give more room to tighten the tension nob/wingnut thing...that was difficult on my OCD, but it had to be done.

I got a RAM mount and put the base in the port (left) cup holder.

Marked the first hole, and think about it for a little bit before the drilling the first hole.

Got the hardware installed for the base. Used 1/4" stainless steel machine screws with blue locktite, of course that also meant enlarging the holes in the RAM base slightly.

Had to steal the cable passthrough from the starboard side, ordered another one to replace the empty 1" hole on the nekid side. The cables are pretty stiff, but still allows the mount to be moved around and adjust the angles.

Ready to go; installed the Hobie 12vdc battery holder to the sailing mast post in the front of the hull. I picked up a 7amp hour batter for $25 local. I can adjust the screen so it is pushed back away from the rudder handle. FWIW, the Hobie battery holder and hatch liner don't clear each other to be used together.

With the head unit removed, the cables tuck into the cup holder and are clear of the top of the hull, so it will be flush for hauling upside down.

Zip tied the excess transducer cable to the seat scupper tube. I used two zip ties for now, might put a couple more on later...because I figure, "If it's worth doing, it's worth over doing."

I just put an Elite-4 HDI in my new Outback. I'm kind of a perfectionist (read: anal) when it comes to installing things. The RAM base was installed off center intentionally to give more room to tighten the tension nob/wingnut thing...that was difficult on my OCD, but it had to be done.

I got a RAM mount and put the base in the port (left) cup holder.

Marked the first hole, and think about it for a little bit before the drilling the first hole.

Got the hardware installed for the base. Used 1/4" stainless steel machine screws with blue locktite, of course that also meant enlarging the holes in the RAM base slightly.

Had to steal the cable passthrough from the starboard side, ordered another one to replace the empty 1" hole on the nekid side. The cables are pretty stiff, but still allows the mount to be moved around and adjust the angles.

Ready to go; installed the Hobie 12vdc battery holder to the sailing mast post in the front of the hull. I picked up a 7amp hour batter for $25 local. I can adjust the screen so it is pushed back away from the rudder handle. FWIW, the Hobie battery holder and hatch liner don't clear each other to be used together.

With the head unit removed, the cables tuck into the cup holder and are clear of the top of the hull, so it will be flush for hauling upside down.

Zip tied the excess transducer cable to the seat scupper tube. I used two zip ties for now, might put a couple more on later...because I figure, "If it's worth doing, it's worth over doing."

Then coiled the NMEA cable up and secured it to the transducer cable.

Hello, I'm new to the forum and I just got my 2014 Mirage Outback and your FF installation caught my eye because its a good distance for me to operate and viewing the screen, and the provided thru-hull fitting allows the cabling to come out just behind the unit. The hull thickness at the bottom of the cup holder though, looks and sounds a little thin, so wondering if it could crack if bumped. Also, does it raise an issue when you paddle? I see that you installed a second thru-hull fitting on yours to accommodate the twin power cable, I don't want to add a second thru hull fitting with my installation, I don't have any instruments to hookup. Is the data wire needed?Well I decided to do the same as you, (the cup holder installation) I wanted to do geartrak but, I messed up on the order (I didn't understand the ordering process with Yak...ak) just as well it would had been to far to operate and view. I'm not going to drill a second hold to accommodate the data wire I'm cutting it off therefore both wires (transducer and power) will fit through the one thru-hull fitting/hole and don't have to grind down the power knob to fit through the backing nut. Another thing I plan to do different is make a spacer to fit the bottom of the cup holder to raise the base a little and also make one as a backing plate just for added strength in case something bumps the unit like a big fish when bring it in the kayak,

Thanks for passing on your installation,

Gavinfla

Last edited by gavinfla on Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I like your installation a lot, mainly its close to the unit, the added weight is part of your body weight and doesn't take away any access to the hull. Just wish I saw it earlier, but for sure I will slowly gather up the parts needed to copy you for my next battery.

I just put an Elite-4 HDI in my new Outback. I'm kind of a perfectionist (read: anal) when it comes to installing things. The RAM base was installed off center intentionally to give more room to tighten the tension nob/wingnut thing...that was difficult on my OCD, but it had to be done.

I got a RAM mount and put the base in the port (left) cup holder.

Marked the first hole, and think about it for a little bit before the drilling the first hole.

Got the hardware installed for the base. Used 1/4" stainless steel machine screws with blue locktite, of course that also meant enlarging the holes in the RAM base slightly.

Had to steal the cable passthrough from the starboard side, ordered another one to replace the empty 1" hole on the nekid side. The cables are pretty stiff, but still allows the mount to be moved around and adjust the angles.

Ready to go; installed the Hobie 12vdc battery holder to the sailing mast post in the front of the hull. I picked up a 7amp hour batter for $25 local. I can adjust the screen so it is pushed back away from the rudder handle. FWIW, the Hobie battery holder and hatch liner don't clear each other to be used together.

With the head unit removed, the cables tuck into the cup holder and are clear of the top of the hull, so it will be flush for hauling upside down.

Zip tied the excess transducer cable to the seat scupper tube. I used two zip ties for now, might put a couple more on later...because I figure, "If it's worth doing, it's worth over doing."