That seems to me, to be a better instruction manual saying basically the same thing that the not so "written word" oriented Schumacher manual was saying. That more anti-squat can add and detract traction in certain situations and vice versa with less anti-aquat.

Man and I thought that droop crap was complicated. I'll just try both methods and see which one I like best.

In short I think that more anti squat will give you more rear traction when you accelerate because there will be more pressure in the rear tires and at the same time it will give you more on power steering because less weight will be transfered to the rear. But on the other hand it will give you less rear traction entering corners.

now let's talk about camber link positions and their effect.
ahhh just kidding!

This is what the Orion site says about anti-squat-
More anti-squat will give more 'driving traction': there will be more pressure on the rear tires as you accelerate, aspecially the first few meters. At the same time, it will give more on-power steering, because the car isn't squatting much. The disadvantage is that the car has an increased tendency to become unstable entering corners, aspecially in the rear. Reducing the anti-squat angle has the opposite effect: a lot less on power steering, and more rear traction when the car isn't accelerating as much anymore. The car will also be a lot more stable entering corners. It also affects the car's ability to handle bumps: more anti-squat will cause the car to bounce more when accelerating through bumps, but it will increase the car's ability to absorb the bumps when coasting. Reducing the anti-squat does the opposite: it improves the car's ability to soak up the bumps under power, but reduces it while coasting.

So I guess were both right if we weren't talking about the timing of grip . I still like the level hinge pins making the suspension freer and more efficient, especially on the coarse tracks I'm running on

Originally posted by MikeR I've tried the Sorex tires but they don't seem to be as fast as Take-off 22's or 27's when your running on multi-use regular asphalt. Your tire selection will be the most important set-up. The p2k is still the stock motor to beat when geared at 6.0 starting point. And don't forget the split top plate modification! >)

MikeR, I don't believe I'm familiar with the split top plate mod. What exactly is it?

Yes, the split top plate really helped settle down my car and made it even more stable in corners and when you put a wheel on a dot or uneven surface the car stays planted still. Just much more consistant.

I still haven't tried the upper deck mod. I don't want to cut my only upper deck. Maybe once I get another upper deck I'll give it a try. The car handles great as is, I cant imagine it getting better. But I will defintly try as soon as I get the chance.

Originally posted by Darkside Trips: I hadn't seen you post on the thread in a while. I thought maybe you had moved away from Corally.....again!

I haven't moved away yet, but I did run a XXX-S last Saturday night, and it was on RAILS... My Corally felt a little bit slow through the corners in comparison, but easily as fast or maybe a bit faster on the straights.

I might try the topdeck mod this weekend... as of now I can't decide which car to run...

Hey MikeR: I just visted the Yokomo thread and they were discussing placing a power cap between the + and - polls on your reciever. They(and apparently some team drivers like Hara and companies like GM) say it helps with interference when running low turn motors or super high speed servos.

You should go check out their thread and see what they have to say about it. daniz24 has a pic of his car there which shows how he has it hooked up.

I figured with the interference problems you have had, you would be interested. That is unless that XXL has already solved your problems.

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