Auctions can be a less expensive way to buy baseball cards.
Below are tidbits on baseball & sportscard collecting.
Wander the website for more vintage
baseball, football, basketball, hockey, sports and
non-sport cards info on card collecting.

The vintage issue below featured elsewhere on this website:

1951 Bowman Baseball Cards Checklist & Values

1951 was Bowman's largest set to date, both in the card size and
number of cards. Thanks to the several major rookies, led by Mickey Mantle
and Willie Mays, the 1951 Bowman set is by far Bowman's most valuable.

Bowman again used hand-painted color reproductions of actual photographs.
The 1951 Bowman card fronts were very similar to the 1950 set, with several
players 1951 Bowman cards look like larger versions of their 1950 card.

Cards #243-#324 are scarce high numbers. The rookie cards of Mickey Mantle
and Willie Mays are in this series making them very difficult to obtain.

1954 Bowman Baseball Cards Checklist & Values

Competition was raging between Topps and Bowman in 1953 and 1954 leading to
problems with both companies sets. Bowman caused Topps to missing 6 cards
in 1953 with Topps getting revenge by signing Ted Williams to an exclusive
contract in 1954. Bowman then had to pull Ted Williams card #66 from their
set shortly after they started printing, replacing it with Jimmy Piersall,
who also was on card #210 making the 1954 Bowman Ted Williams #6
one of 50's scarcest cards.

Perhaps distracted by it's competition with Topps, the 1954 Bowman set was
filled with errors and variations. Nearly 20% (40/224 cards) had some sort
of variation, with some having more than 2.

The St. Louis Browns recent move to Baltimore also made things interesting.
Bowman's artists had no idea what an Orioles jersey would look like -
so they just madeone up.

Some other ways to sell your baseball cards

Auctions are a very popular way to sell vintage sports cards.
My two reasons why:
#1 Desirable items tend to get top dollar (or better !)
#2 Everything goes
... This can be good - Everything gone, final total likely reasonably high
... or can be Very Bad - Everything gone, but at unexpectedly low prices

• Donate to charity for the tax write-off
Not selling but perhaps the easiest with still a possible return.
ASSUMPTIONS:
#1) You are one of the RARE tax payers left in America
#2) We are talking about mostly "junk" from late 1980's, early 1990's.
Consider keeping your better stuff for one of the sell options and donating
rest to charity. Tax deductions used to be based on lesser of what it cost
and "What-it-is-Worth". For the "What-it-is-Worth" part I use Beckett which
usually turns out to be higher than what you paid. Check with your tax guy.

Link below is a TurboTax discussion on donations.
https://ttlc.intuit.com/questions/3372284-are-trading-card-donations-deductible-if-so-how-much

(part 1)Certificate Of Authenticity - a document that is used to verify the legitimacy of
a collectible. In reality, it is worthless, unless it shares a counterfeit-
proof serially-numbered hologram that is attached to the item, and the certificate
bears the signature of a notary public, or written verification by the manufacturer.

Common - any card which is not short-printed, an insert, a bonus card, or has an insertion
ratio. In short, the cards that comprise the manufacturer’s basic set.

Condition - the physical appearance of a card/collectible. Centering, corner wear,
photo clarity, edges, the presence of foreign material, signs of misuse are
the critical components. Along with rarity/scarcity, it is a major factor
in determining the value of a card or collectible.

Crease - an obvious paper wrinkle defect usually caused by bending the card [i.e.-
the result of being tortured on a rear-wheel bicycle spoke during the early ‘50s
and ‘60s].

Die-Cut - an insert/parallel card that differs from the basic card by a process of
the manufacturer "cutting" portions of the card revealing a special design.
Recent issues may also be individually and serially-numbered.