91 K1500 - hood stuck - help!

My hood is stuck in the closed position on my 91 chevy truck. I've done some research on the internet and tried the suggestions I've found, but first the symptoms.

The handle in the truck pulls all the way out like it's supposed to and it sounds like something is moving a little under the hood.
The hood does not move at all and is in the fully closed and latched position.
The secondary safety catch to fully open the hood is easy to move, so that's not the problem.

I've done these things:

1)Have someone hold the inside handle all the way out while I bang all over the hood with my hands - no luck.
2)Have someone hold the inside handle all the way out while I try to get a screwdriver or prybar in the crack - no luck - I have to be careful b/c I don't want it too messed up.
3)Spray W/D 40 up in the mechanism to try to get it to 'unstick'. I've done the spraying but haven't gone back to see if it will open yet, but I'm not hopeful.

Any suggestions? Could someone who has this class of truck maybe look inside and take a picture or something so I can see what it looks like from the inside and figure out how I can get in there? If you PM me I can give you my cell # to send a pic from your camera phone if that's easier than uploading here.

BTW, to top it all off, the battery is dead, so i can't even use or move the truck right now!!

Does the hood release handle return to it's normal position after you pull it? It could be a broken/stretched cable.
When my hood sticks, I give it downward pressure, front and center, which usually releases it. Otherwise it relatches, and I give the release handle another try.

Look at the latch mechanism. On the right side of the brace is where the cable feeds into the latch. See if you can get a small prybar or wonderbar in there and pull down and away, or twist it. You might be able to put enough torque on it to release the latch. Be careful of the grille bars and paint...

For the battery, there are some jump boxes that have a cig. plug adapter to charge from the inside.

alright, common chevy problem, ever notice a lot of older chevys have little dents across the hood? usually it takes a few good love taps to pop it, also try pushing straight back towards the cab, wiggle it left, wiggle it right, pull it towards you. If you wiggle it all around in ever direction enough itll hit the sweet spot and open. Once its opened up, there are 4 bolts that control the hood latch, loosen up all 4 to where theyll moce freely and gently lower the hood, get it to hit the sencondary latch, then open it and tighten it all back up, then it should be golden from there.

alright, common chevy problem, ever notice a lot of older chevys have little dents across the hood? usually it takes a few good love taps to pop it, also try pushing straight back towards the cab, wiggle it left, wiggle it right, pull it towards you. If you wiggle it all around in ever direction enough itll hit the sweet spot and open. Once its opened up, there are 4 bolts that control the hood latch, loosen up all 4 to where theyll moce freely and gently lower the hood, get it to hit the sencondary latch, then open it and tighten it all back up, then it should be golden from there.

alright, common chevy problem, ever notice a lot of older chevys have little dents across the hood? usually it takes a few good love taps to pop it, also try pushing straight back towards the cab, wiggle it left, wiggle it right, pull it towards you. If you wiggle it all around in ever direction enough itll hit the sweet spot and open. Once its opened up, there are 4 bolts that control the hood latch, loosen up all 4 to where theyll moce freely and gently lower the hood, get it to hit the sencondary latch, then open it and tighten it all back up, then it should be golden from there.

From my expierience a sharp hit to the grille right in front of the latch works. hitting the hood never felt good to me

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Dont hit the grille. that will snap the grille apart. The hood latch is completely seperate from the grill, it sits on the core support and hitting the grille doesnt even budge the core support. Hitting the hood is safer because its thicker METAL, you tap it on the front edge where it curves down where it is 4 times as thick bevause its an edge, wont even put a dent in it when using your fist to tap it. You tap the grille and it will shatter, tapping the grille will get you no where, its PLASTIC and your trying to move something that is connected to your fenders with it, common sense man. cant move a hard object with a soft object.

UPDATE: Houston, We have a problem!! I managed to tap the metal cable housing out of its slot (with a screwdriver and hammer) right where it attaches to the hood latch brace. That's when I discovered that the cable is broken :gasp:. After analyzing the problem and finding a couple pictures of the latch mechanism and brace in my Haynes manual, I believe the next course of action is to unscrew the two bolts that hold the latch mechanism to the bigger vertical bar that goes in front of the radiator (the bar that the horn is mounted to). Here's where I need some help: I've attached a picture showing the exact location of these bolts. They are very difficult to get to when the hood is closed and I'd like two things if you guys don't mind: 1)The size wrench I need for those bolts and 2)Suggestions for the best type of wrench to use. There's gotta be something that will work. The main problem is that my meat hooks are too big to get through the holes of the grille, so I need something that will work on a 90 degree angle and I can control from outside the grill. Sockets won't work - there's barely enough room to slip a wrench up in there on the bolt head.
Thanks! Brian

Bummer, dude.
Where is the cable broken? Is there enough cable at the front where you can pull it out through the gap and activate it with vice-grips?

To answer your questions - 13mm. Here's what I just tried to see if it will work. Use a wedge, I have a nylon one, but a lubed up wooden one would probably work.
Wedge between the hood and grille. Try to make enough room for a 1/4" drive, 13mm socket with a long extension to fit through. It'll be tight, so go easy.
Once you're through the gap, you should be able to work the bolts, no problem. Recover the tools when the hood is open. I DIDN'T DO THIS TO MINE, BUT I GOT THE SOCKET THROUGH...just to see.
When your bolts are loose, I think your best bet is to lower the latch as much as possible, and cant it towards the driver side. There should be room then to use the screw driver to work the latch.
The other thought I had is a "crows foot" wrench head, again, with the 1/4" drive. Slide the crows foot through, then try to get the extension attached. The wedge would still be handy, so would a magnet, but you'll be stuck with lots and lots and lots of 16th turns.