"and you want it to do what?!"

You can buy "Lazy Susan" hardware...ya know, the hardware used to
support a manually turning center piece for your dinning room table,
so the family can get to the food without reaching.
Attach the motor to the base. This would facilitate the use of 2
separate pieces for the pedestal...base and turning platform.
I would imagine the pedestal could be any shape using this approach
...do

I just finished sharpening my first chisel with Steve Lamantia's Scary Sharp
method and now stand before in stunned testimony: this technique is
life-altering! I now have an ordinary, off-the-shelf bench chisel (Stanley,
for Pete's sake) that is at least as sharp as any razor blade I've ever
used. It's going to take a month for me to regrow the hairs on my arm after
"testing" the edge over and over again. I'm not kidding, folks: it slices
them off just by pressing the edge - lightly! - against the base of *a*
hair.
(I know, I know - I need to get a better life, but still....)
The only change to the system that I made was to add a final polishing with
crocus paper, which seemed to improve the sharpness somewhat over the
2000-grit level.
DanD
For anyone who doesn't know what the heck I'm talking about, here it is:
**********************************************
Condensed Version of How to sharpen a plane blade with sandpaper.
Mercilessly butchered into a Condensed "How to" Version by J. Gunterman from
the Original by the Steve Lamantia.
To lap the back behind the cutting bevel:
Use a very light coatings of 3M "77" spray adhesive to temporarily glue
small 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" rectangular pieces of sandpaper along the edge of a
sheet of 1/4" plate-glass.
The paper to use is Aluminum Oxide in grits 50, 80, and 100, and Silicon
Carbide (wet-or-dry to you lay people) in grits of 150, 180, 220, 320, 400,
600, 1200, and 2000. The plate glass should be placed with its edge flush to
the edge of the workbench. Grits can be skipped, if desired, but more time
on each grit will then be required to fully remove the scratches from the
previous grit. Using the gradual progression as listed, however, will
require only about a minute or so with each grit."
Lap the end one inch of the back of the iron on each grit in turn. You could
use it wet or dry.
About every ten seconds or so, stop and brush off the sandpaper with a whisk
broom and wipe the blade off on your shirt.
About ten minutes after starting, you should have gone from 50 grit on up to
2000, and there will be a mirror finish on the back of that iron the likes
of which must be seen.
Then jig the blade in a Veritas honing jig or go it by hand--
Clamp the blade down in the Veritas blade-holder device, taking care to have
the bevel resting on the glass perfectly along both edges. Adjust the
microbevel cam on the jig up to its full two-degree microbevel setting --
and hone away on the 2000-grit
Flip the blade over on the sandpaper several times, hone and lap, hone and
lap, each time gentler and gentler, to remove the little bit of wire edge
The resulting little thin secondary bevel should be quite shiny by this
time.
Remove the blade from the jig, and perform the "shave some arm hairs off"
test, or the sharpness test of your own choice.
Of course, the ultimate test of a plane iron's sharpness is what it does on
wood.
When it is all done, peel the sandpaper from the glass and throw it away.
Then, scrape the little bit of residual adhesive from the glass with a razor
blade, a quick wipedown with acetone on a piece of paper towel, and the
cleanup is done in a minute.
No oil, no water, no mess, no glaze or flatness problems to worry about, and
a cutting edge that is Scary-Sharp (TM).

<snip>
I have a question about sharpening in general. I have used the scary
sharp method with amazing results on cheap chisels as well as my plane
irons. What I need to know is if I'm doing it correctly. My question
is: Do you both push the blade down the paper as well as pull it
back, or do you only move the blade in one direction (eg push the
blade down the paper)? I know that when I sharpen my kitchen knives
that I only hone in one direction, but wanted to verify the same
information for chisels and irons.
TIA
Bill

: I have a question about sharpening in general. I have used the scary
: sharp method with amazing results on cheap chisels as well as my plane
: irons. What I need to know is if I'm doing it correctly. My question
: is: Do you both push the blade down the paper as well as pull it
: back, or do you only move the blade in one direction (eg push the
: blade down the paper)?
A disadvantage of using coated abrasives for this kind of sharpening is that
the blade will tend to plane the grains from the paper, if not actually cut
through it.
I have seen one technique recommended by a well-known writer who moves the
blade in a direction parallel to the edge, presumably to reduce this effect.
However there is some information that goes against pressure on the forward
stoke. This can be seen on my web site. Please see 'Sharpening Notes' -
'Some Scientific Light on Sharpening Technique'.
For most practical purposes, I reckon that abrading on a hard surface
(oilstone, diamond stone or glass) wins hands-down. You can do the natural
thing and push on the forward stroke.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email address is username@ISP
username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
Website www.username.clara.net

Scary Sharp has given me back the joys of using my hand planes I
inherited from my dad. It is realy nice to be able to take a paer thin
shaving of a piece of wood with a scary sharpened hand plane.
Regards George SA

Hmmm. I don't know how practical it would be, but I'm visualizing a
planetary gear from out of an automatic transmission with the mating gear
somehow mounted on the end of a motor. You might need to scrounge up some
more gears in order to get enough reduction to have enough power to move
the statue, and to get it slow enough that the statue doesn't fly off.
I've never done anything with gears, so I can't make any specific
suggestions. Sounds like a fun project though. I've always wanted to make
something with gears.

I'm not sure how heavy the piece is that needs to be rotated but I was
thinking an old belt-drive record player with the platters reversed might do
the trick. Instead of rotating at 33 or 45 rpm, gearing it to turn at 1 or
2 rpm might provide enough power to work.
Lee

OK Folks, I'm not feeling the "love". Suggesting that she forget the
rotation factor seems wonderful but what if she doesn't?!
Patient guy that I am, I'll allow you all some more time to think on this...
Pat..

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