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Mitsubishi 3000GT help

Hey, I'm wondering about an intake system for my 93 3000GT VR-4. I was told that for a twin turbo a cold air intake system is not necessary and won't make too much of a difference. This same person told me to just go with the RAM intake. Is this true? Any information is always appreciated. Thanks.

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I got this 98 3000GT SOHC, non-turbo. The CEL came on and I got it check out and the diagnostic said, "Fuel Trim Malfunction Bank #1 and #2." is that the O2 sensors that I have to replace? and it is what's causing my engine to stall, you know, rpm goes up and down and then, stalled. I thought it was the fuel pressure regulator so I changed it, that didn't help. All of your help will greatly be appreciate. Thanks.

Hey guys, Im new to all this and i need some help. Im 16 year old male and ive been obsessed and admired working on cars since i was 10. The 3000gt was one of my dream cars and ive found a opportunity to actually get one. I found a automatic white mitsubishi 3000gtbase model DOHC) with 160,000 miles(engine runs fine) for only $300. The body requires some body work on the rear bumber( was backed up into a pole, thats what i was told. I talked to a friend of mine that works at the body shop and i can probably get it repaired cheap. But thats not the problem. I want to get some serious horsepower out of this car and do alot of body mods. But back to the horsepower im worried that i might not be able to get the horsepower because alot of the performance parts sometimes say not for use with an automatic transmission. Now that ive board u with all this story but i realyy need some help.

I drive like the old mama I am. Our 3000 is a one-owner garage-kept [non-permissible content removed] cat, with 75000 miles on her. We hardly use it. The first symptom was a minor jolt or kickback when I was driving 30 MPH. A few minutes later, the CEL went on. We took it to the dealer for service immeidately. They flushed out the old tranny fluid area and put in new tranny fluid. They said the computer is not being clear as to what is wrong and decided to start with the tranny fluid change and see what happens. They cleared off the CEL and we claimed our vehicle. Not 24 miles later the CEL's on again and so is the jolt/kick on a speed pickup -- especially at low speeds.

Does anyone with mechanical experience and / or Mits 3000GT expereince here have any idea what can be causing this problem. I already paid this dealership $700.00 for miscellneous repairs and I am not looking forward to what they're hinting at -- for a new transmission or some expensive transmission problems.First of all, it's hard to believe with such low mileage and the way I drive it.

Hi all welcome to my nightmare! I have a 91 3000GT SL 70k mint. Had the Tranny replaced3 months ago the case The Diff came apart inside and cracked the tranny case. $4,700 !!!I know the trans on these cars are a big problem. After getting the tranny replaced mymechanic said I should have the timing belt replaced it was due at 60k. and it is a interference motor and if it lets go it came damage the motor!. Ok had the belt replaced $1200.00!!!!two weeks later I notice a noise coming from the motor . I took of the plastic timing belt coverand noticed the belt was very loose? I drove it right away to the shop two blocks away and had themechanic look at it, he said wow its loose? leave it here do not drive it and i will check it out..After sitting up on his rack for a one month! he called and says it looked like the belt skipped and bentsome of the exhaust valves and the motor will not turn over!!!!!!I was stunned. The car ran fine when I dropped it off ! He is the one that put the belt on for $1,200 it came loose and now he wants me to pay to get the car fixed! I am correct to say he is the one responsible for the work that he did. I should not pay a cent toget the car fixed. and maybe get a refund for the $1,200 to put the belt in.Not sure what to do with the car? It is only worth $5k in the book, just put in a new trans, clutch?

Greetings to all,Got a '95 3000Gt,(feel bad for those having trouble,especially post #8,you should definitly get the managers attention on this and a lawyer,sorry about that man.)Mine runs great always has,always preventive maintanence,chromed engine 2yrs ago and put new seals/gaskets,o-rings anywhere possible).lost owners manual a year ago,got a periodic warning light-lower right of speedometer cluster,who knows what this is?Alternator?Radiator?(level is fine and volt meter fine).Very bottom light to right of speedometer.Thanks for help,PCfig

if hes an ase certified mechanic/shop take him to court. small claims court does not require an attorney. You need to find another mechanic and explain to him the situation and if he agrees the prior work was does incorrect get an estimate from a couple of other shops and pay him a 100 bucks and bring him to court with you. You'll win garaunteed!

Hey I own the same car saem year same everything! I put a new engine in how ever from a 95 stealth R/t.

Who ever told u an intake system on a turbo car wud be nonsense was actually tlaking nonsense.

Any mod wether it be cat back exhaust to intercoolers. headers or intake as in this matter will be way better on a turbo car than any other non turbo . just cuz u have a turbo is gonan triple the HP more than any toher non turbo so a 20Hp gain on a nontrubo car for intake will be 50 to 60 hp(hypo speaking- the best is the hks dual intake(foam heads)

Ok, so i have a 1991 3000GT SL. It only has 105k miles on it, and in very good condition except that when idling, the RPMs jump drastically from 1500 to 0 almost cutting off!! I was told that this could be due to my cold air intake? Anyone disagree??

my bro bought a 92 (i think) non turbo with a rebuilt engine. anyways, it overheats after about 20 minutes of driving. I checked his car out and i have concluded that its not the thermostat, not the fans, not the radiator. He flushed his radiator because i thought there might be a block, but it still happens. I'm not really an expert mechanic or anything close, but i've done all the tests to eliminate certain probs. anyone know of anything? i was thinkin it could be the head gasket, as my supra had a head problem that overheated my engine a lot and caused it's ultimate demise....... But it is a rebuilt engine so basically...... what could the problems be and is it better to fix, replace head and gasket, or just start over w/ crate engine or something?

Its my understanding that it is common for the 3000GT's to develope a lifter tick.My '95 base model has developed an incessant and embarrasing one.I read of a way to "cure" this but it involves revving the engine for a periode of a minute at RPM's as high as 8k.I don't like this idea.Anyone know of a cure,cheap or otherwise?Has anyone tried this "revving" idea?Thanks for any/all help.PCFig

Your not going to like this......I would not even consider driving my '95 in bad weather,certainly not snow.I have 18" tires and manual trans but even in rain my tires spin from starts and slide at stops.The torque on these is a problem(as is the power,which is a good thing,usually).If i were you i would invest in a "bad weather" car,something cheap but dependable.Perhaps you will have better experience in your driving conditions.i live in MI,just took full coverage off today and put storage ins. only on it."She'll" be back out in 4+ mths.Good luck.

Hi there!!I am new on this forum and I am tring to get an advise whether to buy 99' 3000GT SL with about 80K on it. I've heard that the transmission of these cars is not very good product and they are very defective. It is really a common problem ? Can somebody please advise me shoult I still consider buing this car or should I think about something else?

the hole in the end of the lifter is much more narrow on the pre-99 3000gts to completely stop the noise all you have to do is replace the lifters with 99 3000gt lifters its also the same with the stealth

the colder the air on a normal car makes all the difference but on a car with an intercooler its just a waste of money and wont make any difference if any thing itll cause too much back pressure in the the tubing and throw out your map sensor

95-99 3000gt are known for their trnsmission failures the trannies are just junk it would be cheaper on you to either replace with an earlier model such an 92-94 all the transmissions of all the years should bot up to any one of the motors.

whats up i own a 963000gt base i wanna get 3000gt vr 4 motor any every thing that vr 4 have i just wanna convert my 3000gt in to vr4 ..........is possible to to that if some one knows email me......aitesunny

i have a 1992 dodge stealth rt and when ever am in the car driving when ever i press on the gas paddle i feel like something is just getting stuck , it makes a small noise that u cant notice unless ur driving like puk puk like that and i took that thing to every where and they dont know the problem, and u can feel that this problem is makin the car lose some horse power of the start line but after i go over 40 its fine, what do u guys think about that?

3sxperformance.com you can get up to 13" rotors, with 6 piston calipers for your 3000gt if you wanna pay the buck, these guys aint no joke i highly recommend them. but just incase you're on a budget, they have cheaper drilled and slotted rotors with higher performance calipers that bolt right on. good luckDavid

i have a few problems with my 3000gt. first of all the main problem is it missing when you take off fast. and when your driving about 40-45 mph its like the car doesn't know what gear to go into and it just seems like its not working right any ideas i would really like to fix the missing. also my oil pressure gauge stopped working for no reason again any help would be really appreactied. Another thing is my coolant light comes on for a while then goes away sometimes when i start the car its on then it just goes away after driving for a while but the coolant is full to the max. i really need to get this stuff fixed so any help would be GREAT :shades: ()ask me anyhting about the car and ill try to help you guys out whit my situation! thanks Greg

try the water pump, before you take it off take the radiator cap off and turn the car on, if the water sinks inside the radiator then the water pump should be functioning properly otherwise if it doesnt move then theres your problem.good luck

i wouldnt recommend revving the engine at high rpms especially at 8k this would only eventually bend the valves. you might have a sticky valve so you can buy an additive from any auto parts store, and if that doesnt work then you might just have a loose valve. im not quite sure if your car has adjustable valves, but if it does then you might want to get them adjusted a.s.a.p before the noise gets worse.hope everything works out for you