l'Entree des Artistes is a brash, bustling bar in the new location of 30 rue Victor Masse in the Pigalle area of the 9th arrondissement. Here the passionate owners have created a space that is built on three firm pillars of excellence - cocktails, wine and food.

Our visit yesterday was with a group of 'hard core' natural wine lovers. We asked Edouard to recommend a white wine with some character and he brought out a 2003 Chenin Blanc from the Anjou region of the Loire Valley. This was a naturally made wine (organic viticulture, only natural yeast for fermentation and low sulphur) of considerable complexity and charm demonstrating all the most appealing characteristics of this wonderful grape.

Many more bottles were also enjoyed. The offerings here are to the left of centre with the three members of the Courtois family figuring prominently.

The food was also of a very high standard with a very good burrata, excellent oyster, very good charcuterie and a great chocolate dessert being standouts.

We thoroughly recommend this friendly, professional establishment.

Note: Their previous bar of the same name in the 11th is under new ownership, so make sure you head for the one at the address mentioned above in the Pigalle area.