Envelope Fail: Vogue 2893 by Donna Karan

When I first started collecting sewing patterns, Naomi was baffled. She couldn’t understand my interest when the styling on modern pattern envelopes was bland or worse. This new, occasional series looks at designer patterns that fail to convey the strengths of the original—not as an end in itself, but in the hope of provoking reflection and discussion of the frequent disparity between designer fashion and the licensed versions offered to home sewers.

The look was even chosen to open the Spring 2005 runway presentation. The second photo shows the top’s contrast mesh inserts, elasticized shoulders, and decorative zigzag stitching detail:

Model: Gemma Ward. Photo: Marcio Madeira. Image via style.com.

Model: Gemma Ward. Image via style.com.

Now consider the pattern envelope:

Vogue 2893 by Donna Karan (2006) Top and skirt.

Technical drawing for Vogue 2893

The envelope replaces the original’s bared shoulders, open back, and slight flare at the hips with a much higher décolletage and tightly laced back. The result is a more covered-up, middle-of-the-road, body-con look that lacks the original’s confidence and wit.

What do you think? Did Vogue Patterns assume the original styling wouldn’t appeal to their customers?

Wow! This is very interesting. Of course the runway version is so dramatic, and the model looks so vulnerable and somehow captured or encased in the corset. But the envelope photograph verges on dowdy. She looks like she is off to work and the lovely laced up back picture is shaded as if it is somewhat indecent.

I think you’re absolutely right in pointing out the disparity between the runway look and the pattern envelope. The envelope really does a disservice to the design, kind of “dumbing it down”- which I think doesn’t help patterns sell! I want to see the possibilities- not the most bland version that could be made!

Is it not possible to pull the sleeve down a bit for more off-the-shoulder look? Looks elasticated at the top of the sleeve. And was the original on runway also more open? I could imagine the top photo has the back more open to accommodate the model’s more hunched back pose. I think editorial photos are a bit unreliable as indicator of what the garment look like in real life, what with the tricks that stylists get up to!🙂

I have to agree many a designer patterns in recent decades look not so appetizing as the runway or editorial. It does make me wonder though whether it’s the model & styling that make all the difference. So try as we may, even the designer original will look dowdy on an average woman without a team of fashion professionals at hand.

I’m not a fan of catalog style photos. But most pattern brands seem to stick to that. Maybe it’s cheaper to produce. Maybe that’s why I’m buying more Burda pattern magazines nowadays than envelop patterns. The editorial style photos double as fashion magazine, even if their patterns are no more creative or alluring than Vogue’s. What I really would love is editorial inspiration photo(s) + mug shots (to guide fitting alterations) + tech drawings.

Yes it used to be that Vogue patterns were very much like the designers’ clothes on the runway – not anymore. I cannot see how anyone – no matter how talented a sewist – could make this flattering on a female human; the professional model looks quite dreadful…. Why bother to even put DK’s name on it? Do what Simplicity does for their “Project Runway” line: just add “inspired by” & then only the truly foolish will think they are getting a real designer’s pattern.

‘The Sartorial Coquette’ makes an interesting point, that the version on the pattern envelope could be the retail version. I’ve read somewhere before that there can often be a difference between runway and retail versions, particularly when it comes to the hem length on skirts and dresses, which can often be shown shorter on the runway.
Anyhow, with the sleeves cut higher on the shoulder the top does lose its glamorous special-occasion appeal and becomes a strange off-to-work ensemble with inappropriate evening wear details. I think with a different choice of fabric the outfit could look like more of an evening or cocktail outfit – particularly made from a black fabric which would also make the mesh inserts stand out more, but I think that the pattern would still need to be altered to achieve the off-the-shoulder sleeves to look any good, and altering patterns can be a pain!