how do you turn on your heated grips? did you have to drill a hole to insert a toggle? curious as to how you finished the switch part of the install.

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The install and removal is super easy, no drilling no permanent mods to the bike.

The temporary aerostich heated grips simply velcro onto and above the normal grips. Yes they make the diameter larger, but it's easy to get used to. Yes there's one more set of wires near the triple clamp, but you can route the wires so that it is still a clean look.

The switch is similar to an old school lamp switch. It's inline with the wires and located near the left hand grip. You simply install the heated grips, run the wires to the power source and you're done. To turn on just slide the switch. The main downside is that you need to remember to turn them off otherwise your battery will be drained. This is also easily solvable by using a relay with a hot wire trigger.

Actually, if someone had an awesome relationship with their dealer I don't see why anyone would need to buy the DP heated grips. You could permanently install heated grips and run them to the multi head grip switch and get the dealer to turn the option on. I don't see why non DP grips couldn't be connected to the Multi controller since all heated grips basically function the same although there might be slight difference in resistance. This would be similar to all the guys connecting their GPS to the standard GPS plug.

Since I live in Houston, where "winter" is at most only 2.5 months with summer conditions the rest of the year removable heated grips for $45 were the most cost affective option for me. I didn't pursue hooking grips into the standard plug / controller because I'm too lazy and I'm not sure my dealer is cool enough to turn the option on. Plus if there ever was any electrical problems in the future they most likely would lazily point to the non DP accessory.

I just took mine off a few weeks ago and stored them in the garage. IF you're thinking about heated grips, seriously give the $45 Aerostich a thought.

Got the new seat & rode it about 75 miles on Monday. Much better in terms of rider space. I can put my toes on the pegs. The new seat is pretty firm, but the back part is nice and wide. It's a lot easier to move around on, so sliding forward for turns is not a problem. The Rocky seat's shape tends to hold you in one place.

I was able to flat foot the bike w/ my knees bent on the Rocky seat. The new seat is not too high; I can put both feet firmly on the ground. I have a 33" inseam.

If you ride up close to the tank for more than a few minutes w/ the enduro seat, you get the same numbness as you do w/ a bicycle seat that has the nose above level. Sliding back on the flat portion or standing on the pegs for a few minutes returns your nerve endings to normal.

Got the new seat & rode it about 75 miles on Monday. Much better in terms of rider space. I can put my toes on the pegs. The new seat is pretty firm, but the back part is nice and wide. It's a lot easier to move around on, so sliding forward for turns is not a problem. The Rocky seat's shape tends to hold you in one place.

I was able to flat foot the bike w/ my knees bent on the Rocky seat. The new seat is not too high; I can put both feet firmly on the ground. I have a 33" inseam.

If you ride up close to the tank for more than a few minutes w/ the enduro seat, you get the same numbness as you do w/ a bicycle seat that has the nose above level. Sliding back on the flat portion or standing on the pegs for a few minutes returns your nerve endings to normal.

Just out of curiosity.... just how fast can my stock 2011 Multistrada go, last year on a lonely highway I cranked it up to 200 kph (124mph) and had a few gears left. What ever it is I'm never going to see it but it makes me wonder.

Trying to find info on do it yourself oil changes, can anyone point me in the right direction?
Or, answer, how much does it cost to do it your self? What oil is suggested? Are there other oil filters besides ducati you can use?
Again, just gathering intel...thanks!

Got the new seat & rode it about 75 miles on Monday. Much better in terms of rider space. I can put my toes on the pegs. The new seat is pretty firm, but the back part is nice and wide. It's a lot easier to move around on, so sliding forward for turns is not a problem. The Rocky seat's shape tends to hold you in one place...

If you ride up close to the tank for more than a few minutes w/ the enduro seat, you get the same numbness as you do w/ a bicycle seat that has the nose above level. Sliding back on the flat portion or standing on the pegs for a few minutes returns your nerve endings to normal...

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I get tailbone pain after a few hours on the Multistrada which first reminded me of this 2010 MTS review"...Rider accommodations are generous in the vertical dimension, (but) it becomes clear that tall riders may wish for more wriggle room between the stepped seat and that tapered-steel handlebar. The ensuing riding position focuses body weight on a point directly below your tailbone..."

I feel its the vertical riding position (taken here) that causes my pain on the MTS since I didn't have it on my Yamaha FJR1300:

The 9° forward leaning angle and the extra bit of room to slide backwards on the FJR seem to make it a lot easier on the coccyx...

Anyone know of an aftermarket seat for the MTS1200 that extends to the rear and replaces both rider and pillion seat?

Just out of curiosity.... just how fast can my stock 2011 Multistrada go, last year on a lonely highway I cranked it up to 200 kph (124mph) and had a few gears left. What ever it is I'm never going to see it but it makes me wonder.

I just picked up a white 2010 MTS S Touring today. 4100 miles. Original tires are still round. Showroom condition w/ top box & Termi & more extras. It was raining pretty hard today so just a short scoot up the road. Tomorrow should be a good day for a real shake down ride.

I'm very excited & lucky to get it.

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NICE nice nice! got a glimpse of in in a WARPED pic and after some daze of thinking about I tracked ya down. Congratz! Roger. Be safe on that baby.

Trying to find info on do it yourself oil changes, can anyone point me in the right direction?
Or, answer, how much does it cost to do it your self? What oil is suggested? Are there other oil filters besides ducati you can use?
Again, just gathering intel...thanks!

So I think my next 2 investments are going to be the MRA Touring screen and Motech crash bars.
I already ordered the bag liners and have a tank bag on the way. I also have a fuse box I need to wire in along with a few weatherproof 12v power outlets. I am going to wire my radar detector in permanently (actually use it less for radar detection and more for the emergency alerts it provides. I also have my GPS that I will be mounting up...less for direction and navigation and more for the information services it provides.

I am also selling off my high end desktop replacement laptop and replacing it with an ultrabook for travel. I am considering running 12v to my top box for the laptop charger as well. Although, some of these small solar kits seem rather appealing too...

Got some plans for this beast. Looking forward to travelling as much as possible and maybe some day being able to travel most of the time...

I'm still having trouble getting my 2010 MTS to run right in the 2k to 4K range.

I've installed a D&D can with the MIVV cat eliminator pipe and a Bazzaz FI unit. I was able to get the mapping from another guy on the forums that he set up on his with an Akro system and got it close but still not quite right.

My question is does anyone know of a place where we can share maps for the Bazzaz units or have one they can shoot me in an email or download somewhere?

I've heard mixed reviews on the self mapping unit that Bazzaz sells so I'm hesitant to buy one just yet but would really like to try some other maps.

I've heard of the Fat Ducs but I think the Bazzaz unit does the same thing as them while allowing you to tune the maps.

Semi-unrelated, but I'm seeing more dyno reports which suggest that the db killer in the MIVV decat pipe robs the motor of horsepower (restricts exhaust). Check out Ducati.MS for some great ECU/fueling related threads. Personally? The FatDucs do a great job helping the closed loop fueling down low on a stock exhaust bike.

So I think my next 2 investments are going to be the MRA Touring screen and Motech crash bars.
I already ordered the bag liners and have a tank bag on the way. I also have a fuse box I need to wire in along with a few weatherproof 12v power outlets. I am going to wire my radar detector in permanently (actually use it less for radar detection and more for the emergency alerts it provides. I also have my GPS that I will be mounting up...less for direction and navigation and more for the information services it provides.

I am also selling off my high end desktop replacement laptop and replacing it with an ultrabook for travel. I am considering running 12v to my top box for the laptop charger as well. Although, some of these small solar kits seem rather appealing too...

Got some plans for this beast. Looking forward to travelling as much as possible and maybe some day being able to travel most of the time...

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ZLTFUl,

I'm curious, what tipped the scales towards the SW-Motech crash bars? If memory serves, those bars have a forward mount that uses the radiator mount. And it would seem to me that a tip-over with those guards could complicate damage to include radiator-related damage. I haven't pushed the button yet, but am leaning towards the DP guard which avoids anything to do with the radiator.

FWIW, I just installed the Navihalter GPS mount and am very happy with the results. It places the GPS above the instrument cluster and nicely within your riding scan. For me, it works much better than waiting for my 46-yr old eyes to change their focus.

The SW Motech Crash bars are just like the DP crash bars and do not connect to the radiator - that is the Alt Rider brand. I have the SW Motech Crash bars...love them except the weight these bars add to the front end.

The SW Motech Crash bars are just like the DP crash bars and do not connect to the radiator - that is the Alt Rider brand. I have the SW Motech Crash bars...love them except the weight these bars add to the front end.

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Do you think they would help offset the weight added in the back by a top box/bags and help make the front "stick" a bit better?

The SW Motech Crash bars are just like the DP crash bars and do not connect to the radiator - that is the Alt Rider brand. I have the SW Motech Crash bars...love them except the weight these bars add to the front end.