What enabled Armany to grow into a world fashion designer is based on two factors : postmodernism of the new spirit of the times and the fashion industry of Italy, his mother country. That is, his capability to connect the spirit of the times with his works and use local advantage for his works led him to be a maestro of fashion circles. Founding on his outstanding ability, he established his own world of unique design, where his philosophy of design remained. This philosophy was a distinctive character from other designers. Since he was founded on this philosophy, his own features that other designers can't imitate are dissolved in his designs. Armany is very suggestive to our design circles which look for globalization of fashion. A fashion designer should look straight at the fact that the final aim of fashion is to satisfy customers who buy it. In addition, he should recognize that understanding customers' demands and developing products with his fashion style in accordance with them are the way to success and study new things continually by setting up the direction of the future based on the recognition. It is essential to cultivate sensitivity to create a new beauty from a basis just like Armany expresses modern women's image by harmonizing rationality and functionality, the existing male features, with female pliability adequately. As well, the analyses of design made by Armany are thought to be helpful in reestablishing fashion design education so that unique design styles may be maintained and future-oriented international fashion products may be produced.

This research recognizes the importance of hotel and regular traditional restaurants contributing to tourism industry that goes along with demands of an era that considers traditional culture important, and focuses on searching for possibility by proposing direction of designs that traditional restaurant uniforms should aim. To achieve this study goal, by surveying the problems & preferences of the current uniform, over 60% of both the attendants & customers expected an improvement in the uniform. Most of the subjects wanted the improvement in design, followed by the improvement in functionality. Over 80% preferred traditional design or modernized design where traditional aspects were applied. Also, over 70% preferred a design where a pattern was applied. Among the patterns, over 80% of the subjects said that they prefer traditional patterns or modernized patterns where traditional aspects are applied. We admit that there are some limitations on this study, such as insufficient analysis & study on the attendants' action and their uniform, as well as limitations on restaurant selection. However, Through the study we expect that the Korea uniform can be differentiated from others, achieving World-class competitiveness.

As the cultures of the world are getting diverse and plural, many trials to find their own unique culture of their own national and racial characteristics are made where fashion and traditional culture is used as good materials; in Korea, this trend is also studied by many authors. To achieve this goal, this study recognized the importance of tourism industry by inviting hosting of international event like '2005 APEC Summit Conference and Economical Ministers' Conference', and invented a uniform design that can make identification in the world market including Korea 'Gust' and 'Emotion' in developing uniforms for employees of regular traditional restaurant or hotels that contribute to tourism industry. As a material of this study from this perspective, Soo Bok pattern among many other Korean traditional patterns were chosen, and used them to design uniforms by applying diverse expressions methods through modernization task. This study tried to suggest ideas in creating new designs with a modeling sense of our people, by emphasizing on tradition motive through analysis of conditions and problem regarding the current uniforms worn in traditional restaurants. The development of uniform that modernly reinterprets traditional patterns and design that uses tradition on modern design shows endless possibility of development of our uniform, and even shows the possibility of mixture between tradition and modernity. By applying traditional beauty not only in traditional restaurants but also in many places and businesses that foreigners frequently visit can allow to spread the excellency our culture; and the Korean uniform can be successful in the international market as Korean will have pride in our tradition by wearing this new uniform.

Fascism is a term that began to be used from the late 1930s, means an idea and a system that the strong power of the state intervenes or control people's life based on the argument that the existential value of individuals is found only in the total. Fascist looks, which resulted from World War I and II, had brought a new pattern in women's fashion inspired by men's military uniforms. Thus, the purpose of this study was to identify fascist fashion trends in the first half of the twentieth century and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in fascist fashion looks. The results of this study indicated that expressions of fascism reflected the current ideology of rebellion and appealed to the original national sentiment of the masses. Fascism occurred in response to the contradiction of capitalism and its general crisis had emerged as an ideology with the highest popularity symbolizing power and government during the first half of the twentieth century. It was expressed in military looks as self-centered nationalism and yearning for minorities. Second, fascist fashion looks were not only for political and sexual temptation with the image of power but also for the display of women's status and roles through the bold expression of sexual attractiveness. Finally, fascist fashion looks expressed medieval images praising the feudal age in imagination that contained heroism and at the same time achieved integration under strict social hierarchical order.

Motivations to engage in internet shopping as well as traditional off-line shopping include both utilitarian and hedonic dimensions. It is important that online fashion retailers offer the sense of the real shopping experience that offline fashion retailers do. This article is to assess empirically virtual model impact on consumer's online shopping experience. To test hypothesis, an experiment was executed a field study on foreign internet shopping(www.landsend.com). Prior to administering the experiment, a pilot test was conduct among 20 undergraduate students to pre-test for computer system trouble and delay problem. The experiment was conducted to 90 studetns. The participants were instructed to answer all the questons based on their experience when using that particular internet shopping mall. The LISREL 8.50 was used for statistical analysis. The results indicate that the virtual model characteristics such as vividness, customization, and interactivity are important factors in affecting consumer's shopping experience. Online shopping experience have a strong positive effect on shopping mall loyalty.

This study was designed to find out how the sociocultural attitudes toward appearance, BMI(Body Mass Index) of adult women affect their body image and body satisfaction. A questionnaire was prepared in the survey and a total of 456 adult women were selected by way of stratified random sampling. The research findings are as follows. The sociocultural attitudes toward appearance were shown in two factors of 'internalization' and 'recognition' The body image was shown in three dimensions of 'care for appearance,' 'concern about weight,' and 'appearance attractiveness'. Internalization, recognition, and BMI affected care for appearance. Concern about weight was affected by internalization, and BMI. Appearance attractiveness was affected only by BMI. Most people were not satisfied with their weight and overall body shape in spite that they in fact had normal or lean figures except 3.3% of the total samples. From the above research findings, adult women's satisfaction with their body was shown high when they were subjectively satisfied with their appearance attractiveness. And the results indicate that adult women are under pressure of socioculturally distorted image of beauty.

The purpose of this study examines difference of cunsumer satisfaction by expected selection attribute of wedding dress and bride make-up. It is looking into influencing variables in consumer satisfaction, and is supplying real information to wedding market. The subjects of this study were 241 women getting married within one year of Daegu. The data were analyzed by using frequency, mean, the standard deviation, ANOVA, duncan test, correlation analysis, cross-analysis. Conclusion obtained from the results and discussions of the research are as follows: 1) In the attribution of expected selection according to occupation, blue-collar women are concerned about cost factor but they are low content with the perceptual satisfaction factor. 2) When selecting places for wedding dresses and wedding make-up, in the attribute of expected selection about the number of visiting the shop for wedding dresses and make-up, people who visit over 7 dress shops are highly interested in the appearance fancy degree, advertisements effect factors. But they are concerned with advertisements effect factor, cost factor in the perceptual satisfaction factor about wedding dress. Besides, the more they get chances to visit many dress shops, they are concerned with advertisements, cost factors, and satisfied with both the effect of advertisements and appearance factor degree in the attribution of expected selection about wedding make-up. 3) In the attribution of expected selection about the cost of wedding dresses and make-up, the lower the cost paid, people are interested in price factor. Furthermore, in the attribution of expected selection about the wedding dress and make-up cost, those who spent over 150 million Won are interested in quality, others influence factor, and the case of less than 120~150 million Won, people are highly interested in the appearance fancy degree, advertisements effect factor, and the women are satisfied with the advertisement effect factor in the perceptual satisfaction factor of wedding make-up.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the somatotype variation & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear for overweight women. For this study, questionnaires were administered to 154 overweight women in Andong & Daegu areas. Employing a sample of 116 data were analyzed by using F-test. And 10 overweight women's brands were analyzed for sizing system of women's ready-to-wear. The results were as follows: In the satisfaction with the somatotype variation of overweight women, length items increased and girth items decreased with aging. At neck, bust, waist, hip and sleeve circumferences, satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear decreased with aging. Correlation for somatotype variation & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear was significantly positive. And main sizing system of overweight women' s ready-to-wear brands was size 99 & 105 cm(bust)-90 cm (waist)-110 cm(hip), and its sizing intervals was almost existed in range of 5 cm-7 cm. There were various sizing systems in overweight women's ready-to-wear brands, and it raised a problem of consumer's dissatisfaction.

The study of young people's attitudes towards appearance management has special significance for understanding young people's living, thought and attitudes. It was handed out 600 questionnaires in the three cities and look 573 questionnaires back, out of which 552 were used as the basic material for the analysis. These 522 questionnaires included 178 in Beijing, 200 in Shanghai, 175 in Dalian. 154 questions in four aspects were raised in the questionnaires. The purpose of this study were to identify the Chinese generation' lifestyle and fashion attitudes. Questionnaires developed by researcher were distributed and collected from 552 chinese new generation of the three cities(178 in Beijing, 200 in Shanghai, 175 in Dalian). 1) Life attitudes of new generation men and women in China were classified into five factors, which were extravagant pleasure-seeking, sports-oriented, marriage-oriented, appearance-oriented and study-oriented attitudes. 2) Fashion attitudes of new generation men and women in China were classified into eight factors, which were fashion attitude of being conscious of others, others-dependent fashion attitude, rational fashion attitude, brand-pursuing fashion attitude, active appearance management fashion attitude, unique fashion attitude, fashion attitude of being conscious of sex role and individuality-oriented fashion attitude.

This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

The purpose of this study is Korean fashion designers' tendency and degree to adopt and receive overseas fashion trends, as a founding work to suggest a direction for Korean fashion industry and designers to select and adopt overseas fashion trends. 204 survey results out of 270 ones from the same number of fashion designers in 68 brands, who work in domestic mass-fashion female-garment brands for more than 3 years, are used as final analysis data. For the data analysis, SPSS, -verification, variable analysis and MANOVA are executed, and statistical significance is verified at significance level 0.05. Conclusions obtained from the result and discussions of study are as follows: 1) The periods for domestic fashion industry to need to adopt overseas fashion trends are during 1992-94, and 1986-88. 2) There are discrepancies of utilization of design factors per brand concept. 3) When a line which is not suitable to domestic consumers is presented as subject of fashion trend, there are difficulties to reflect, and per brand concept there are differences of reflection sequence. 4) Whether or not to develop independent themes is dichotomized per brand concept.

With the growing interest in pet dogs and pet dog's wear I used this study to compare and analyze the pattern used by each supplier and developed a new pattern for pet dogs' wear which is appropriate for pet dogs' body lines and movement. Test subjects were 91 pet dogs in Busan and after comparing 3 patterns from different suppliers, I developed the pattern reflecting pet dogs' body shapes and movement. Results are as follows; 1) As a result of analyzing measurements, it was found that pet dogs motion in walking on four feet, is different from that of people on two feet. For center measurements, their waist to bust length is longer than their waist to back length. The result of analysis shows that bust circumference impacts most other measurement results and it seems that better results are achieved if the bust line is taken into consideration when measuring bust back length, bust front length, neck base circumference, front leg arc, the length between lateral shoulder etc. 2) As a result of comparing suppliers' patterns, it was discovered that each supplier has different sizes for the same patterns and those sizes are not standardized across the board. Even if the same size of pattern was actually used in the production of pet dogs' wear by the individual companies, there were many variations in size for each item. 3) To develop a more standard pattern of pet dogs' wear, I collected and analyzed 3 patterns from each supplier and designed a new pattern, revising it three times. After test-wearing of the experimental pattern and the studied patterns, and comparing and analyzing the results, the studied pattern had similarly better estimation than the experimental one.

This study is done to classify the upper body shapes for late elementary schoolgirls. The sampling was done for 11~12 years-old-girls resident in Busan and Kyungnam. Based on the somatometric charateristics of them, 33 anthropometic and 7 photogrphic measurment data were acquired from every girl. These data are statistically analyzed with the following methods; Factor Analysis, Cluster Analysis, and Discriminant Analysis. Resulting from the factor analysis, it is shown that 79.95% of the whole variances can be explained with 8 factors. Through the cluster analysis, 3 types of upper body shapes can be categorized as follows: Type I has average horizontal size, big vertical size and lots of protruded chest ; Type III has big horizontal size, the mean vertical size, and big upper angle of the back ; Type II has small horizontal and vertical size and long surface length of the upper body. Through the discriminant analysis, the high discriminative items in discriminant function are follows: Upper chest circumference, arm length and waist front length of discriminant function I and waist depth, front length, back breadth, nipple to nipple breadth and upper chest circumference of discriminant function II have large coefficient values.

The purpose of the study was to identify the motives of women's appearance-management behavior, and examine how women perceived the appearance -management behavior and pursuit of ideal body image. The depth interview method was managed to five female subjects who had experiences in plastic surgery and obesity treatment. The instance analysis used in this study. The results were as follows : There were four types of women's appearance-management behavior. First, women perceived themselves by using other people's evaluation, and it was the first motive of appearance-management behavior. It shows that appearance is not based on the real self-image but is the evaluated self-image by others. Second, women were willing to suffer the pain in the plastic surgery and obesity treatment by the expectation of appearance improvement. It means the result of reducing the difference between the actual self-figure and the ideal self-image. Third, the sexual discrimination culture had an influence on appearance-management behavior. It seems the sense of male superiority spreaded over the Korean society. Lastly, women improved self-satisfaction and self-esteem through their physical appearance as an alternative method for better life.

For the purpose of examining the relationship of physiological and subjective responses to different exercise intensities and varied types of sportswear material, under environmental condition RH, five men who wear four different kinds of sportswear which have same clothing cover area. The subjects exercised for 20 min with a 20 min pre-exercise rest period and another 20 min post-exercise recovery period. Throughout the 60 min. duration, we monitored the local skin temperature, rectal temperature, clothing microclimate and subjective sensation. The mean skin temperature was recorded to range from for the entire duration of the experiment with the highest temperature observed at the 7th min after starting the exercise. During the exercise intensity at THR 20, the lowest recorded temperature was at the 5th min of the recovery time and stabilized at the 10th min. However, in the exercise intensity condition at THR 70, the temperature declined steadily until the end of the experiment. With regard to clothing materials, cotton 100% and Polyester/Cotton blended fabrics knit(35/65) was maintained lower than Polyester 100% and polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (65/35). In the case of the rectal temperature at THR 70 in case of PET 100%, Polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (35/65) was higher than other sportswear throughout the duration of the experiment.

To develope a high value-added fiber products which is useful in the human body physiology, the Macban stone was deposited on the PET fabric by sputtering and its effects were investigated. Then, a Macban stone target was prepared for sputtering treatment and treated on the PET fabric by RF sputtering process. After treatment, surface observation by SEM, far-infrared emissivity and emissive power, the fastness to washing and light, bacteriostatic rate, electrostatic, drape stiffness, and breaking strength of PET fabric were investigated. From these investigation, the following conclusions were obtained. 1) The Macban stone was able to deposit on the PET fabric, by the RF sputtering treatment which is eco-friendly dry textile finishing. 2) The far-infrared emissivity and emissive power of sputtered PET fabrics were increased. 3) When PET fabric was treated by sputtering with Macban stone, the amount of deposited Macban stone increased with increasing treatment time and it was deposited on the fabric surface firmly. 4) The bacteriostatic rate of sputtered PET fabrics was about 20%. 5) The electrostatic charge of fiber surface was reduced by sputtering. 6) The fastness washing to light of dyed fabric were improved by the deposition of Macban stone, but the breaking strength was not changed by sputtering. 7) The drape stiffness of sputtered PET fabrics increased with increasing treatment time.

The washing efficiency of two types of washing machine- drum(drum washing) and drum using steam jet system(steam drum washing) was studied. The purpose of this paper is to clarify the performance of new steam drum washing. The relationship between washing temperature and washing efficiency(reflectance(%)) by soil removal, and that between washing temperature and electric energy consumption, Fabric damage evaluated by Danish wear method, Fabric shrinkage(%) during laundering were investigated, and compared with those in drum washing machine. Washing efficiency of steam drum washing according to washing temperature is better than that of drum washing. Electric energy consumption and fabric damage in steam drum washing are lower than those of drum washing. Fabric damage increased as washing temperature increased. Shrinkage of fabrics in steam drum washing and drum washing are about same. Therefore, we assumed that in the case of steam drum washing using steam jet system, washing efficiency remarkably increased, and fabric damage decreased, even with a lot of saving in given electric energy and water used.