your printbed is not leveled (should be better than layerheigth you're printing, e.g use a Micrometre)your axis (Y/X/Z) clearence (with higher speed you also get problems with the moving mass)your slicer and configuration (every slicer handles things different and could contain bugs)retract settings (not correctly set you will see blobs or holes on every retract position)to high temperature (small details will get overheated)to reach this time, your printer should run between 60-200mm/s, infill as fast as possible. not every printer works in this range, so try to figure out where you're printer limit is.text is hard to read > use a smaller nozzle/other slicer

Analyzing the print myself, the solid surfaces seem quite good, but the overhang test has problems with what seems like retraction. I also wonder about the volume of the print. I haven't tested an M4 nut, as I don't have any at the moment, but reading the M4 and ctrlV text, I don't see enough of a gap in the holes. I only have the 5 thickest walls as well, as the software wouldn't even show the 2 thinnest in the preview and sim of the print. There is also no gap in the base between any of the gaps near the walls, except for the .7mm one. .6mm has some gaps, but not through the entire base. The top surface is also a little bumpy.

first thing in mind is the low bed temperature, try to get 100-130CÂ°.if possible always print from sd card.

the extrusion width (0.29) is small, to make things easy, try 0.5 mm extrusion width (EW). (less thinkering about wallthickness in parts)why such a uneven number for the layerheight (LH) ? is the threaded screw not ready for other LH?you can try to use 0.1mm (LH) and 0.22 EW. its not easy to reach since you're dealing with almost no extrusion...

the retraction should be higher (also depends on temperature from ABS)

the wall test depends on the extrusion width, some slicer try to print thinner walls. some just ignore them.your slicer and printer should print from the 0.3mm wall upwards

if there is no gap it seems you feed to much material. (or your hardware has positioning issues)measure the size of the test , should be 50x30x2mmwith the correct amount of feeded ABS, the bumps on the surface should be gone.

Hey, thanks for making this awesome test model. I've printed four so far with mixed results.

I have about 2 days of experience with 3d printing. I have no tools for calibration and am playing with a "broken" printer from work that I got working again. Prior prints (keychains, etc.) all used LH of 0.3mm. I don't think the stock extruder/nozzle can handle the fine details of 0.1mm prints without proper calibration, if ever.

You'll probably recognize what's going wrong from the photos, but here are the variables, mostly slicer settings, changed for each test:

Hey, thanks for making this awesome test model. I've printed four so far with mixed results.

I have about 2 days of experience with 3d printing. I have no tools for calibration and am playing with a "broken" printer from work that I got working again. Prior prints (keychains, etc.) all used LH of 0.3mm. I don't think the stock extruder/nozzle can handle the fine details of 0.1mm prints without proper calibration, if ever.

You'll probably recognize what's going wrong from the photos, but here are the variables, mostly slicer settings, changed for each test:

printing temp seems quite high, did you try lower temperatures?it seems there are more strings with the high quality print, is there any difference with retraction?retraction seems to be too low > fine strings between walls. (spped up and/or use more distance)did you try printing with raft?the HQ print is missing stuff on top of the M4 nut, any ideas what happen there?the minimum distance walls are not fully filled, maybe the extrusion width is to small.the bridges in the med quality could use more cooling.

So here I set temp to 175, yet printer showed the extruder was at 220, not sure why.

Since I'm new with 3D printers, I had to do a few things after leveling the base, including turning the printer on and off several times before replicatorg would detect it. So question is would I have had to redo the leveling as well?

Any tips on improvements welcome.

From what I've seen I am looking to making some support brackets for the y axis barsMaybe get some bronze bushings to replace the roller bearings.And maybe a quieter fan or psu, cos many it is so loud even when idle!

Anyhow here are a couple photos, for first prints I think they are OK when compared to some others.

check your gcode for temperature seettings, should look something like "M104 S175 T0"M104 Snn set temperature in degrees Celsius.i think ReplicatorG is no longer under development. maybe there are other firmware that works with your printer.

So here I set temp to 175, yet printer showed the extruder was at 220, not sure why.

Since I'm new with 3D printers, I had to do a few things after leveling the base, including turning the printer on and off several times before replicatorg would detect it. So question is would I have had to redo the leveling as well?

Any tips on improvements welcome.

From what I've seen I am looking to making some support brackets for the y axis barsMaybe get some bronze bushings to replace the roller bearings.And maybe a quieter fan or psu, cos many it is so loud even when idle!

Anyhow here are a couple photos, for first prints I think they are OK when compared to some others.