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Update: Packed Diff and Installed All Gears in HR Gearbox

"They didn't build Rome in a day" LOL I pulled the top gear and input shaft from the old stock tranny and moved it to the new HR Graphite/ Alloy one. The stock plast idler and diff were yanked and thrown to the side. I ordered a new diff with the metal ring gear, installed all the internal gears and packed with heavy duty automotive grease. Installed all new Avid bearings inside the case and on the idler ( lovely yellow ), put all the shims ( TF washers ) back for the top gear and idler. I also put one shim ( TF washer ) on each side of the diff to cut down on the left & right play. All the gearing installed, then bolted up the gearbox halves. Everything is rotating nice and free. All I need to do now is add some grease for the internal gears and i'm good to go. I test fitted the gearbox to the chassis and everythings looks great so far.

Lookin great digg, and love the updates! Btw.. Except for the screws that attach the bellcrank together, i was able to use hex everywhere else. I use 3x8 screws to hold the servo down. Than on the inside the saver to the servo its 3x10. Only those ones that look like Traxxas wheelie bar screws, I was not able to replace, for obvious reasons.

Btw.. Except for the screws that attach the bellcrank together, i was able to use hex everywhere else. I use 3x8 screws to hold the servo down. Than on the inside the saver to the servo its 3x10. Only those ones that look like Traxxas wheelie bar screws, I was not able to replace, for obvious reasons.

I'm thinking about replacing those with some hex head from the Hexpax set. If not i'll use some stock black hex to clean it up a tad. I was doing that to get it together. I really hate the look of those cheapos that come on there stock. LOL

Originally Posted by AbSoLooT1

Those are nice hex screws. Im diggin em for sure.

I've used a couple dozen from the pack so far. I really like the Armor Plating ( Zinc-Nickel Alloy ). Living on the coast it doesnt take much for bare metal to grow Rust. They may not blend well with the black, but they are some good stuff.

Update: T-Bone Wheelie-bar & Xtreme Racing Rr Shock Tower

A little progress on the Rustler build. I'm taking my time and having fun with it. I pulled the HR gearbox off the frame and put some grease on the internal gears to keep them lubed up. I added enough to make sure they were coated just right.

Before:After:

I then put some electrical tape over the gap and the bottom front of the gearbox.

I then mounted up the T-Bone Wheelie-bar. It's really nice and has good flex for impacts and holding wheelies.

I'm going with 32p gearing on this build. It'll be a first from 48p conversion for me. My big scale trucks run 32p so this isnt anything new to me. I'm going to start with 50/14....Any good guesses? I should have taller gearing in my box of pinions....

I know this is a little backwards. I should have posted the gearing before the rest of the install above. LOL Oh well, I just noticed that.

Next up Xtreme Racing Rr Shock Tower. I think i'm going to stick with this one. It's got a really nice toughness to it. The finish is extremely outstanding, and the design is out of this world. Alien...nuff said. haha Plus it has a ton of mounting options for camber and shock placement.

That shock tower looks real cool. Same goes for the bumper/wheelie bar. I'm still waiting on mine.
The gearing depends on the power plant you are going to pick, so I cant judge on that. It's probably a safe one, whatever you chose (knowing the range you are going to pick from).

Update: Xtreme Racing Fr Shock Tower Installed

Not much for updates the past couple of days. I do feel like an idiot though; I said my gearing was 50/14, should have read 14/50. LOL I feel that's going to be a good start and some decent speed.

Install went fairly well. I had some fitment issues with the Xtreme Racing Fr Shock Tower and the STRC Aluminum bulk. I had to take some meat off the bulk where the bottom of the shock tower bolts up. I just grazed enough off until it fit to perfection. LOL One thing good about aluminum and plastics a hobby knife works perfect as a solution here. It came out nice and in a spot where its not noticeable. Here's a few shots of it installed.

I received a few other packages in the mail. Thursday I got the Fr & Rr Hot Racing Shock Towers. I just love the looks of those to. I matched them up and the Xtreme Racing (alien) offered slightly more mounting options. I went with these since I havent seen to many using them if any as of yet.

Yesterday I got the Hot Racing CNC Servo Saver. I mounted it up and the darn thing is to big. No room for the throw. Not sure if i'm going to do any mod to get it to work or just swap the Kimbrough from my Digger and install this one on it. I really dont want to chop this one up in any way. I wasnt thinking about all the mounting positions this Saver offers.

Is the ET-3s working well for you? Badly was having some problems calibrating it with his controller.

Not sure. Havent finished the build to install and use it yet. Hopefully soon..... I know some of his original issues were the TQi not working with his Servo, then the ET-3S not calibrating with other brands of Tx/ Rx's. I'll be running a TQi system and stock 2075 Servo so hopefully I won't run across anything. I'm going to have at it on this build again tonight. It's just going on piece by piece.

I need another esc and have been thinking about the ET-3s but after reading his thread I'm holding off on buying one till I get more info. Lately I've been using more futaba radio's.

So far i've stuck with Traxxas 2.4 & TQi's. I have a Spektrum DX3S but range issues with have kept me from using it. The trigger and steering feel are out of this world. If I go with another Radio system it'll be a Futaba 4PKS or 4PKS-R. You are supposed to be able to turn off the CLL but this will be my first time to use it. When I get everything situated i'll hook that radio system up and let you know and if I have to or can cut off CLL.

Nice build man, you guys are crazy lol. I am guessing by the pics and updates you have yet to mount up the ten-t shocks and mounted the body up yet. As I posted else where a few days ago, I had issues with the ten-t's and mounting the raptor body up. Clearance issues in the rear with the standoffs and shocks. Wouldn't sit low enough, and I like the body low, I don't want to raise it what so ever. The stock body and illuzion body fit no problem.

Let me know if you come accross this and what you did to fix it. Only thing I can think of is some mounts in the rear or cutting out the body in the back which I don't want to do. You guys are full of ideas I am sure you will have it figured out right away. I'll keep watching your thread

Nice build man, you guys are crazy lol. I am guessing by the pics and updates you have yet to mount up the ten-t shocks and mounted the body up yet. As I posted else where a few days ago, I had issues with the ten-t's and mounting the raptor body up. Clearance issues in the rear with the standoffs and shocks. Wouldn't sit low enough, and I like the body low, I don't want to raise it what so ever. The stock body and illuzion body fit no problem.

Let me know if you come accross this and what you did to fix it. Only thing I can think of is some mounts in the rear or cutting out the body in the back which I don't want to do. You guys are full of ideas I am sure you will have it figured out right away. I'll keep watching your thread

10-4! So far, it doesn't look like I'll have a problem mounting them. What shock tower are you using? I'm working on a front end mod that has taken much of my time, well last night it did. Once I get all the bugs out I think its going to be fantastic. I did mount the rear RPM A-arms and camber links. No pics yet. Hopefully some with the front end mod and rear.

Once I get the truck together i'll start painting the body and work on fitment.

Having issues with either the REM Rear Tower and the RPM Tower as well. The standoffs are causing the issue from the shocks sticking out a little and causes the raptor body to not be able to sit low enough. I can't mount the Ten-T's either without standoffs, the springs hit the camber links otherwise. I'll see it I can't get a pic of what I am talking about today. Gonna be busy though, wifes at work, so I am cooking the whole thankgiving dinner LOL.

Update: Wide FR End Mod & Rr Bolted Up

Check out my front wide end mod using Sl4sh RPM front A-arms, blocks & carriers. I'm also using Slayer Push Rods 5918x for camber and steering links. This is the first stage of the Fr end mod & getting everything bolted up. Next up tweak the camber and tie in my steering links. For axles I took a part old Fr end half shafts with the stub axle and cut the ears off. This is working perfectly so far. Once I get everything in gear and the truck on the road to test everything out and if I like this mod i'll do a writeup.

I'm not sure if you noticed but the Alien (Xtreme Racing) Shock Tower offers quite a bit of adjustment and mounting areas for camber and shocks. Which is good! I mounted the camber at the middle holes. I'm thinking about moving them up to the highest to make the links more level. I may just test them at where they are at now and go from there. You also see some threads showing on the rods, i'll fill those with red spacers later on. What do yall think about this mod? Pro's, Con's?? Everything seems to be working well so far. I'm basically using all my leftover stock and modding. The only thing that I dont like that I had to use were the old stock hinge pins. I'll get these changed out later.

More sweetness.
I am curious how the front end is going to work when it comes to steering. I see you wont need much servo travel to make the wheels turn. Wouldn't using the other hole of the axle carrier be smarter to make it steer more precise?

Hmmmm.....Good idea. Logic says yes. I'll have to check that out. Now looking at it I think so. That's whats good about posting pics and having an extra set of eyes. I could have waited and pondered over things to do, i'm a quick shooter when it comes to doing work and posting it up. LOL

Update: Fr/ Rr Body, Adjustments, & Boltup

A little work going on. While working on the Sl4sh front end mod I just bolted up the front body mount to install the top of the shock towers. I knew I needed to come back and fix an issue I had. I ended up moving the mount to the front of the shock tower to get the flat angle for the body posts. I also had to mod the body posts to fit my body on. I tried many things and stared it down. I came up with something a little innovative. Not the best of looking but it works and will hold the body in place very well. I'll clean them up and make them look better once everything is in place. I'm really impressed at how this front mod is coming along. By far it isnt the easiest thing to do. I could have just purchased a set of front Proline A-arms and just been done in 10 minutes. LOL Why not try something new and beefy.

I also took O.G.'s advice and bolted up the steering link to the outer part of the carrier. I centered up the bellcrank steering and tied the steering links in and centered them up as best I could with my eye. Once I get the treads mounted on all 4s i'll do the final adjustment to give it a little toe-out. You also see threads between the link and the rod end. That will be filled in with spacers later on.

You can see a little close-up of the body mounts. I cut the body posts off a rear MJ body mount ( if you buy these in a kit they come with 2 different sets ) for the front end. I had to take the good ole exacto knife to get good fitment as low as I could.

For the rear I flipped a MJ body mount and used the normal front posts and turned them out. This fits perfectly on the Raptor body. I'm not using the single center one that most use for a Rustler body.

Installed the rear Sl4sh Heavy Duty Half Shafts. This will take care of the power plant i'm putting in this machine. Well currently. LOL

A close up of the bling I have going on the spur gear to accent the rest of my red.

Here is a little teaser of the body mounted up to get the adjustements I needed for the body posts. I had to make sure there was enough clearance in the front of the truck as my shocks stick out a little more than normal. I trimmed a little bit off the front end. I think i'm in the good now. Man it's starting to take good form.

Still have some body to trim up. It's about 85% complete before I start scuffing it up and start my rattle can job.

I just had to throw a tire on and see what its going to look like with the rest of the truck. LOL

The front too!!

That's all I did last night. More to come. Like always, thanks for looking!!

Good morning! I made a good amount of progress last night. Everything went really smooth, no hiccups at all. This build is really coming together nicely. Soon as I get the treads mounted up i'll start tweaking the camber, toe, and supsension to my liking and handle. Hopefully my eye is good as everything is pretty close. I'll let the calipers and gauge tell me that later on. LOL I still might have to drop the truck some though. I want it to ride low but not dragging the ground low. Could end up putting some spacers in the shock to drop the ride height.

I have a question to ask you guys. When I went to connect the ET-3S ESC and motor wires they are 2 different sizes. The Traxxas (of course) bullet connector is 3.5mm and the CC/ HPI Vektor motor is 4.0mm. Would you pull the Traxxas side and solder new 4.0mm or vice versa and 3.5mm on the motor side? I'm almost thinking cut the motor side off and go 3.5mm so I still have the stock shielding on the ESC side. But it really doesnt make any difference to me as I have a Tractor Trailler length of heat shrink to cover back up. Thought I would ask what yall would do in this situation. Bigger is always better right??

You notice the ESC is sitting high. I was just now thinking (dang ole late night brain-farts) I do have a Jr extension that I can use to move the esc to the passenger wing of the chassis. So where you see it now it will be moved to drop CoG. The one thing I noticed is how short the Jr wiring is on the ET-3S. Way short to really mount it within an inch distance from the Rx. LOL Urrrrr!!

I'm thinking bashing time with the little fella after work. If I get a good suggestion as to which way would be best above i'll end up at least soldering the new bullet connector on. Who knows what that will lead to. LOL

It looks like it's mounted way higher. But it really isnt. The center mounting spot ( Rustler/ Bandit ) on the tower is about a mm away from touching. I'd say maybe a 1/4 to 3/8in higher than it normally would mount on the actual tower. Which I would have used that but I have issues with the front tower and the shocks a fraction away from rubbing the front of the body. Its the front mod i'm using thats keeping me from mounting any lower. Also the back of the truck body is another fraction away from hitting the motor plate. I could fix a couple of those issues by trimming the body more. I think it's still going to sit low enough that it'll look great.

I wanted to try something different and use my squishy to figure stuff out. It's acutally a nice clean mod. Do I gain anything from it. Not sure, maybe a bit more beefy. I definitely gained a bigger bearing for the inside of the carrier. LOL

Awesome updates Digg! That thing came together real fast! Man, We are so obsessed with builds, we can throw em together like woah. Funny, when I was going over what parts I needed for my Newest Pede build, I didnt even need to look at exploded views. Every single piece, I knew I needed.Down to screw sizes. gotta love it!

Awesome choice of wheels btw...! I might have to just get some dirt hawgs to mount on my 2.8 orphan ruluxs too! Awesome!

Hey digg, K so heres my Kimborough servo saver... Biggest thing is I wanted it black. Also, as for the connecting Rod, I wanted that black too.... I have an extra black rod if youd like, I can send it to you. That way u eliminate the steel one, for a black one as in the pic. The Kimborough one has to cut it yourself.

Also, Its not just ur setup... My Raptor body too was fraction of a milli away from the shocks, but never rubbed. Than again that was stock width shocks....

Sweet dude that would be awesome. I'll PM ya in a few with the address and info. I still need to holler at ya one day to. I really am fond of those 2.8 dirt Hawgs and Rulux wheels, they look so clean. That's when you know you're an RC Addict when you don't need an exploded view to build and put back together an RC. I'm not a fan of instructions, I usually go full steam ahead until an issue arrises. LOL

I'm thinking about stripping the Kim-124 (black) from my Digger and upgrading it to the HR one I just purchased. That would be a win/win situation. Suuuwwwwweeeeeaaaatttt. LOL I can chop it up to fit, well you know what I mean mod to fit the application.

That's kewl to know on the body. Guess its a tight fit!! I'm glad to know it wasnt my setup that was all of the issue. I think once I get all my adjustments made it won't look half bad.

I ordered some 4.0mm bullet connectors so I can connect the ESC & motor up. I was hoping someone local would have what I needed. Nothing really good to choose from and nothing was gold plated. I'm off Sunday so thinking about taking the family to Houston and enjoying the day. The HS in that part of town built a new place/ track a couple miles from their original location so I'm hoping they will have some connectors in stock to get me going a few days earlier.

I put 4mm connectors on everything that gets a bullet connector and TRX connectors on all of my batteries regardless of what its in. This lets things stay consistent. Heck, if you want, I'll throw 3 4mm castle female bullets in an envelope and send you a set. I have a bag of about 30 females because you have to buy the castle ones in sets of 3 male and 3 female. as a result of needing more males for motors i have left over parts. Then at least i get to take some credit in part of a sweet build.