Author
Topic: Corny Keg Hardware (Read 2682 times)

I purchased 4 ball lock cornies a couple of weeks ago. Northern Brewer has a 24 flat rate shipping going on right now that I'd like to take advantage of. I would eventually like to build a keezer, so I want to take care of some of the hardware now to cut costs later. I'm not positive of the hardware that I need. I know I need the gas and liquid disconnects for each keg. I would like to go the route of the ones that are threaded. So, what other fittings do I need, and what is the standard size hose for gas and for liquid?

Then decide ball or pin lock and how you want to regulate each keg either independently or as one regarding pressure. This will help determine what type of regulator you need and how many taps you want to set up as well.

This is the regulator I just got. I love it. I have a 2-way manifold which I have converted to 3-way by taking off the end cap and installing a cutoff valve. You could save money and get a 3-way and convert to 4-way, but remember one is going to stick out of the end.

You'll need to make sure you have some swivel nuts for your gas and liquid hoses since you want to use the threaded disconnects.

Get some extra o-rings for the poppits and dip tube. Also an extra for the lid may come in handy. I'll probably think of something more later.

This is the regulator I just got. I love it. I have a 2-way manifold which I have converted to 3-way by taking off the end cap and installing a cutoff valve. You could save money and get a 3-way and convert to 4-way, but remember one is going to stick out of the end.

You'll need to make sure you have some swivel nuts for your gas and liquid hoses since you want to use the threaded disconnects.

Get some extra o-rings for the poppits and dip tube. Also an extra for the lid may come in handy. I'll probably think of something more later.

Length is going to depend on pressure in the keg and the quality of the particular line. Many people require more like 7-8' to prevent over-foaming and flat beer in the glass. There's some math that you can do, but my buddy, who prefers lively carbonation, just installs 10' and trims until he can bear the flow rate, but before foaming becomes a problem.

Is there a reason why the gas lines should be 5/16" instead of 1/4"? The reason why I ask is because I'm seeing 1/4" barbed distributors. (After looking at the prices, I think I'm going with a 4 way distributor as opposed to a 4 way regulator). 1/4" swivel nuts, hose, and distributor are all cheaper than 5/16", so I was just wondering if there's a significant reason why 5/16" is the norm for a gas line.

Is there a reason why the gas lines should be 5/16" instead of 1/4"? The reason why I ask is because I'm seeing 1/4" barbed distributors. (After looking at the prices, I think I'm going with a 4 way distributor as opposed to a 4 way regulator). 1/4" swivel nuts, hose, and distributor are all cheaper than 5/16", so I was just wondering if there's a significant reason why 5/16" is the norm for a gas line.

I asked the same question as I was confused also but in the end I was told the 1/4 is fine and that's what all the hardware was so I went with 1/4 and unless I don't know any better it seems to work perfectly fine:)

Is there a reason why the gas lines should be 5/16" instead of 1/4"? The reason why I ask is because I'm seeing 1/4" barbed distributors. (After looking at the prices, I think I'm going with a 4 way distributor as opposed to a 4 way regulator). 1/4" swivel nuts, hose, and distributor are all cheaper than 5/16", so I was just wondering if there's a significant reason why 5/16" is the norm for a gas line.

I use 3/16" line for the beer side and the gas side. Saves me the hassle of buying two different size lines. Instead I can buy 3/16" in bulk (50 ft or 100 ft box) and use it everywhere. And yes, you can fit 3/16" line onto 1/4" barbs, just run it under hot water first to soften it up.

Ok, I lied. Just placed my order. After looking into it more, it became pretty simple. I think I got everything I need. I went with 3/16" hose and 1/4" hook ups all the way around. I went threaded hook ups on both ends of the beer line and keg end of the gas line, and barbed hook up on my distributor. I figure wear and tear on that end of the gas line will be minimal, so I figured I'd save $20 there. I'll be rigged for four kegs. I also went ahead and got the taps and shanks too since Northern Brewer also sent me a promo code for 20% off since they "haven't heard from me in awhile." Pretty nice that happened in the middle of a flat rate shipping promo. It's ironic that they "haven't heard from me in awhile" since they ended their flat rate shipping policy. Oh well...worked for me and saved myself $100 today.

I added the small plastic gaskets to the gas lines after fighting leaks, but Teflon tape should do the job just as well. The leaks come from the threaded ends of the barrel nuts coming loose after moving kegs around, so be sure to watch for that as you start out....there's nothing like checking in the morning and seeing the CO2 is out because of an overnight leak!

I added the small plastic gaskets to the gas lines after fighting leaks, but Teflon tape should do the job just as well. The leaks come from the threaded ends of the barrel nuts coming loose after moving kegs around, so be sure to watch for that as you start out....there's nothing like checking in the morning and seeing the CO2 is out because of an overnight leak!

Or even worse, seeing a big puddle of beer in the bottom of the chest freezer.

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Jeff Gladish, Tampa (989.3, 175.1 Apparent Rennarian)Homebrewing since 1990AHA member since 1991, now a lifetime member BJCP judge since 1995