Tips to help you prepare your quilt for long arm quilting

Long-arm quilting is a wonderful way to get your projects from the ‘top’ stage
to a finished product that can be used, loved, and enjoyed.Remember it isn’t a quilt until it is quilted!

Quilt Top

Borders One of the most common complaints about quilt tops is that the borders are too long/full for the pieced top, and therefore the quilt cannot be quilted flat. Before adding borders, measure the top through the middle (not at the edges) in three locations, and take an average of that number…that measurement should be the length of the first border that you add. Do this each time you add borders, to ensure that they are the correct size and fit your pieced top.

Edge stitch
If your top has numerous seams in the last border (e.g. piano keys, small pieces, bias edges) consider stitching completely around the outer edge—this will prevent your seams from distorting or popping out when the top is pulled taut on the machine.

Square
Ensure the top is squared up at right angles, unless of course it is supposed to be angled or a unique shape.

Press
A really good final pressing willenhance your quilt experience—any puckers or seams not pressed flat will result in possible puckers in your finished quilt, or distortions where there is excess fabric. While you are pressing your top, remove any and all stray threads, check for seams that are not closed, and look for any stray pins, etc.

Thread

Types Today’s quilter has numerous typesand qualities of thread available for long-arm quilting. The most frequently used threads in long-arm machines are either cotton or polyester. Discuss options and availability with your long-arm quilter. Thread used in a longarm machine is usually a stronger thread than thread used in a home sewing machine; itmust hold up to the speed and tension of acommercial machine.

Color
There is a vast array of colors aswell as variegated colored thread. Most quilt makers will tolerate a light thread on dark fabric before they will have dark thread on light fabrics. For example, if you have a red and white pieced top, you will either have red thread in the white areas, or white thread in the red areas—you have to decide which is acceptable to you. Requesting one color thread on the top and another color on the bottom (in the bobbin) can create problems referred to as “pokies”—when the tension is not perfectly balanced, the thread may pull up from the bobbin and appear as dots along the stitching line. This is fairly common and sometimes difficult to avoid.

Decorative
These threads frequently contain Mylar or plastic, and are not smooth. Many long-arm quilters find them difficult to work with, but they can be stunning if your quilter has adequate experience using them.

Backing

Size
Most long-arm quilters require three tofive inches of backing completely around yourquilt top. This is necessary so that clamps canbe used on it to pull the fabric taut, and topin the backing fabric to the leaders on therollers. If the quilt top measures 80 in x100 inand your quilter requires “four inches allaround your top” then your backing will needto be a minimum of 88 in x 108 in. If your topis pieced on-point or a diagonal set, considerproviding extra inches of fabric for the backingsince the top may give/stretch a bit morethan a quilt set straight.

Seams
When possible, it works betterto have any seams in the backing run fromside to side rather than the length of thequilt. Ensure that you have a square edge—no excess fabric on one piece that makesit longer/wider than the fabric next to it. Aheavily pieced back is usually not a problemas long as it too is pressed well, and theoutside edges are square.

Design/Orientation
If you have a specific design or need the pieced top andback to be oriented a certain direction, be sure and let your quilter know. It is simple to center the quilt top on the backing from side to side once it is on the machine; it is morechallenging to center the quilt top from top tobottom.

SelvagesALWAYS remove the selvagesfrom your seams in the backing. The weaveis different (tighter) than the actual fabric;selvage will shrink differently when yourfinished quilt is washed.

Muslin
This fabric is usually a looser weavethan most quilting cottons. Generally it willnot enhance your finished quilt. If not prewashed,it will certainly shrink the first timeyour quilt is washed.

Wide fabrics
Fabrics, including muslin,are available in 90 in. and 108 in. widths. Thesefabrics are great for those who do not wantto have a pieced back. Although these fabricsare usually cut when sold to the customer,the fabric should be torn at some point priorto providing it to your quilter. The fabric israrely straight when cut from the bolt, andneeds to be ‘straightened’ prior to putting ona long-arm machine for quilting. If muslin is tobe pre-washed for the backing, keep in mindthat it will shrink considerably—ensure youpurchase an adequate amount to allow forshrinkage and squaring up!

Print vs. plain
Busy prints will camouflage the quilting on the back of yourquilt; plain fabrics will show all of the quilting.Keep in mind which look you desire and theskill level of your long-arm quilter. Although aprint may cost a bit more, over the life ofyour quilt, it may be worth it. Sale tablesat quilt shops are a great place to shop forbacking fabrics.