Now my back feels a little better ( after having tried 6 spinal column ""specialists"", I found a good one last Thursday), so today I played a little on the Sunnyside after 6 almost complete weeks not working. The complete sand blasting job will be next, also a fire pot liner and a few rope gaskets Here are a few photos showing how the grate works: it rotates on a centered pivot and can be "balanced" to send the ash down. I don't know if many stoves have that kind of grate but hope it works good.

Steve,your comment is very good and could help a lot of antique stoves buyers before buying one. But some places don't want to sell a stove without restoring it-$$$- so begin to be carefull, a nice paint job is far from a complete restoration... A very good place to look at is on Stovehospital's website. There are lots of good informations and advises about antique stoves and how they make the restoration job. Some buyers can make the restoration themself but some others can't so there are many things to consider before taking the final decision In fact a stove: wood, coal, pellets...is not a toy and a poor restoration could be a real danger.

Hi, as you know, I like rope gaskets. Just like I don't like metal on metal water stop valves, I don't like very much metal on metal "air" seals. So I keep on using rope gaskets as much as possible This P.M. a friend welded the gasket supports to make a sort of V.After some other works on the stove..., the parts will be completly sand blasted and have 3 coats of H.T. paint before the final re-assembly

wsherrick wrote:It seems like you are going all out here. Will the doors close properly with the gasket addition?

It will close just like a bank's safe!Anyways William, if I have to ""play"" so much on my 2 Antique Stoves it's only because you gave me the Antique "contamination" and I will never thank you enough for it.I think that it's the best (or one of) times of my life. These antique stoves bring so much in many ways!P/S, I do all I can to preserve the antique sides of the stoves when making some modifs on them and take care to be able to get the stove back as when new if needed, so the antique sides are not lost for ever.Is your ""New"" Glenwood near to be all done on the restoration?

I know you will be pleased with the Baltimore Heater once you start using it. The Glenwood No 13 is in pieces at the Antique Stove Hospital. It needs the side pieces for the base and the top plate which is broken. The stove was severely damaged and almost beyond repair. Emery has the firepot and all the parts for the inside, but the broken parts will be hard to find. It must wait until those pieces are found.The stove was used to burn garbage in for years and was treated very badly. When it is finally finished it will get the care and respect that it deserves.

wsherrick wrote:I know you will be pleased with the Baltimore Heater once you start using it. The Glenwood No 13 is in pieces at the Antique Stove Hospital. It needs the side pieces for the base and the top plate which is broken. The stove was severely damaged and almost beyond repair. Emery has the firepot and all the parts for the inside, but the broken parts will be hard to find. It must wait until those pieces are found.The stove was used to burn garbage in for years and was treated very badly. When it is finally finished it will get the care and respect that it deserves.

Does the Glenwood No 13 will replaces an other stove or is it an addiction. And for the final question, are you preparing the next Video Anyways, I know you'r very busy so for the vid I understand, I made only one and know that it's asking time...Keep on the nice work you do to promote the fabulous world of Antique Stoves.

As you can see from the chimney's photo, not very easy to get up there and clean it. So I decided to make the cleaning from the bottom of it and from inside the living room.With that simple kit, it tooks just a few minutes to clean the chimney and got no dust at all in the house and as you can see, the white wall at the back of the stove is as clean after the job as it was before.Took a few time to make the adaptor but it will be use many years in the future times. The foam between the 2 wood discs keeps the dirt inside the adaptor, plus the funnel directs the dirt around the upper wood disc.

Steve, the sawzall works very well with a very fine blade at a high speed, but the pipe must be held firmly, a jig saw also makes a clean cut.For the chimney's cleaning, in fac it worked much better than I imaginated it would. I hate to climb up to the top, having about nothing around you and work at the end of your arms...so I didn't clean the chimney when it was time... now I will be able to clean it the day I stop burning the Golden and just in a few minutes