Host or without LEDs mean deviation from the rest, complexity.
Probably even higher cost for not making one inline with the rest.
We know how hard it can be to get hosts from not that big companies who suffer less when not making a complete light, even the likes of Jaxman are not keen for it.
As with the Q8 and GT we aim for a complete light with unique features
Swapping LEDs is for owners for as said, the individual taste of each is very hard to take into account for a larger production while ideal to furfil when reflowing oneself.

So for the grpupbiy LEDs in a nice average in terms of all the tints available seem best.

Can you make a quick summary about differences between this and Jaxman E2L. I am waiting nichia version of the latter but I am not sure now.

The driver, emitters and switch are the most significant differences.

The FW3A uses a FET driver with regulated channels for the lower modes. The highest modes are unregulated with a FET driver; the emitters get as much current as their forward voltage and the battery’s internal resistance will allow. With some LEDs, this can be quite a lot (15A or more). The E2L uses linear regulators on all modes and limits current to about 2.8A on max.

The FW3A uses the XP-G3 emitter, which is more efficient than the XP-G2 used in the E2L and requires less voltage. Combined with a FET driver, requiring less voltage means it will use more current on max, generating much more light, at least until it overheats and thermal throttles.

The E2L uses a mechanical switch that interrupts current from the battery, while the FW3A uses an electronic switch that sends a signal to the driver. An E-switch has some advantages:

It’s shorter. A mechanical switch adds about 20mm to the length.

It’s more reliable in a high-current application. I’ve burned out a few switches building FET triples.

It has less resistance, making the light brighter in a direct-drive application like this one.

It’s possible to have shortcuts from off to several different modes by different actions like short-press, long-press, double-click. It’s common to have shortcuts to high, low and last-used.

Wow nice post!
Adding just looks and Narsil with a lot of options as other notable differences.

zak.wilson wrote:

fuzun wrote:

Can you make a quick summary about differences between this and Jaxman E2L. I am waiting nichia version of the latter but I am not sure now.

The driver, emitters and switch are the most significant differences.

The FW3A uses a FET driver with regulated channels for the lower modes. The highest modes are unregulated with a FET driver; the emitters get as much current as their forward voltage and the battery’s internal resistance will allow. With some LEDs, this can be quite a lot (15A or more). The E2L uses linear regulators on all modes and limits current to about 2.8A on max.

The FW3A uses the XP-G3 emitter, which is more efficient than the XP-G2 used in the E2L and requires less voltage. Combined with a FET driver, requiring less voltage means it will use more current on max, generating much more light, at least until it overheats and thermal throttles.

The E2L uses a mechanical switch that interrupts current from the battery, while the FW3A uses an electronic switch that sends a signal to the driver. An E-switch has some advantages:

It’s shorter. A mechanical switch adds about 20mm to the length.

It’s more reliable in a high-current application. I’ve burned out a few switches building FET triples.

It has less resistance, making the light brighter in a direct-drive application like this one.

It’s possible to have shortcuts from off to several different modes by different actions like short-press, long-press, double-click. It’s common to have shortcuts to high, low and last-used.

Can you make a quick summary about differences between this and Jaxman E2L. I am waiting nichia version of the latter but I am not sure now.

The driver, emitters and switch are the most significant differences.

The FW3A uses a FET driver with regulated channels for the lower modes. The highest modes are unregulated with a FET driver; the emitters get as much current as their forward voltage and the battery’s internal resistance will allow. With some LEDs, this can be quite a lot (15A or more). The E2L uses linear regulators on all modes and limits current to about 2.8A on max.

The FW3A uses the XP-G3 emitter, which is more efficient than the XP-G2 used in the E2L and requires less voltage. Combined with a FET driver, requiring less voltage means it will use more current on max, generating much more light, at least until it overheats and thermal throttles.

The E2L uses a mechanical switch that interrupts current from the battery, while the FW3A uses an electronic switch that sends a signal to the driver. An E-switch has some advantages:

It’s shorter. A mechanical switch adds about 20mm to the length.

It’s more reliable in a high-current application. I’ve burned out a few switches building FET triples.

It has less resistance, making the light brighter in a direct-drive application like this one.

It’s possible to have shortcuts from off to several different modes by different actions like short-press, long-press, double-click. It’s common to have shortcuts to high, low and last-used.

Thank you. Very nice message.
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Is XP-G3 used in this light high cri version? (90+)

If Xp-g3 yields better results than 219c, this will be a very good light.

And what do you mean by nw? According to the specs. pdf it can be 4000-5000 kelvin. Hope it is not 5000 :/

In the discussion we’re having about this light on reddit, fritz15 asked for votes about users’ preference for the emitter. The XP-G3 option, and indeed the current planned emitter is 5000K and 70 CRI (not sure if that’s specified or just typical). That option has no votes at the moment, while the other option, a 4000K Nichia 219C (90 CRI) has 9 votes.

My own preference would probably lean toward a 5000K 219C, but there are often group buys for emitters here and I have a soldering iron.

After a long hiatus from Flashlights it is great to see this project. A ground up, truly custom built budget light. Thanks everyone who is a part of this project. Size of this light seems so nice, please put me on the interested list