Did not see the sway bar mount brackets and bushings on the list. I have a 2012 and the bars are3- 4 mm smaller then the 1le(27+28) Are they using the same SS units?

Those who have already ordered parts discovered the bars come with the bushing and brackets already on. The bushings are a little bigger than the standard SS, and the brackets are as well to accommodate the new bushings.

Oh well, it's already ordered. Hoping for them to show up next week but stuck in limbo on the coilover group buy so I won't have the stock ones out for comparison until those show up. I aint doin that twice.

Will this bolt up to a 2011 LS V6? Will need to drill out for the front endlinks, but the real concern is with the rear bar clearing the brakes, I am running stock brakes. Thanks

Yes. You'll have to drill out the sway bar endlink mounts on your struts to 12mm. Plus replace the lower control arms too to use the new The rear sway bar. I have brembo brakes so i didnt have the issue with the rear brakes.

BC's ER series. Addicted to road racing so I wanted the double adjustment and massive oil reservoirs. Great reviews online, huge valves, and the same as the pedders supercars. It's be nice to have their support/warranty but not for almost double the price. I'm just a poor working man.

I have a 2012 SS, so effectively updated Rear LCA's and Swaybar arm positions. Are the following assumptions I have made correct, or not? Please chime in, I would like to look into a few upgrades along the lines of the 1LE options.

Are the endlinks in the 1LE the same as the 2012 SS? If not, then I assume we would need to upgrade to the 1LE endlinks (at the least) to support the new 1LE bars.

Can I reuse my stock swaybar bolts or will I need to order 4 of these:
11518623 (Swaybar bolts)

Hubs. My assumption was the benefit to the hubs on the 1LE were due to the gears being changed, thus would you only need to change the rear hubs? I see that most people keep listing changing out 4 hubs. Can someone explain the need/want to replace the 4 instead of just the 2 in the rear. Sorry, suspension noob here.

I have a 2012 SS, so effectively updated Rear LCA's and Swaybar arm positions. Are the following assumptions I have made correct, or not? Please chime in, I would like to look into a few upgrades along the lines of the 1LE options.

Are the endlinks in the 1LE the same as the 2012 SS? If not, then I assume we would need to upgrade to the 1LE endlinks (at the least) to support the new 1LE bars.

Can I reuse my stock swaybar bolts or will I need to order 4 of these:
11518623 (Swaybar bolts)

Hubs. My assumption was the benefit to the hubs on the 1LE were due to the gears being changed, thus would you only need to change the rear hubs? I see that most people keep listing changing out 4 hubs. Can someone explain the need/want to replace the 4 instead of just the 2 in the rear. Sorry, suspension noob here.

The front and rear endlinks are the same as the SS. You do not need new swaybar bolts either. The benifit of the new bearings is that they are better suited for road racing. The bearings are larger and are able to handel more load. Thats why they are on all four and not just the rear.

The front and rear endlinks are the same as the SS. You do not need new swaybar bolts either. The benifit of the new bearings is that they are better suited for road racing. The bearings are larger and are able to handel more load. Thats why they are on all four and not just the rear.

Hey thanks for the quick reply on that...great advice!

Interesting how since the hubs are upgraded for ZL1 and 1LE, there haven't been really any aftermarket offerings on them.

Not including the hubs then, 1LE sways for $244 shipped via GMPartsDirect.com is not a bad deal. Makes dropping $600+ from Pfadt or Pedders for their top of the line sways a much harder choice.

Pics will come tomorrow if I can finish but the shock mounts are different in a couple places.

1) Pre-existing cutouts which seem to line up with the adjustment knob location for some coilovers that used to require drilling to insert the knob. Sadly not mine so I ended up drilling holes in the trunk which really pissed me off. Pedders would probably work with zero drilling, I'd have to do some measuring to be sure.

2) Bushings are definitely different. The steel insert is 4.2MM wider than on the standard SS version. I assume more steel and less rubber will reduce deflection which is a good thing. I couldn't tell a difference in the rubber itself other than there being less of it from the steel insert. I'll check thickness tomorrow.

3) My bathroom scale showed no difference but it kinda felt/looked a bit heavier. Seemed like the metal was a hair beefier but the cutouts may have made it weigh about the same. The lip around the outer edge extended 1/16" more.

Weld locations and length were exactly the same. Same 4 widened bolt holes for mounting to the frame.

Honestly I'm not sure it's worth buying unless you want every last bushing upgraded or you're lazy and don't wanna drill for pedders adjusters. But they come off anyways to do springs or coilovers so if you want to spend the $120 on them go ahead. Glad I could be everyone's guinea pig.