OK, so new to this group, and very new to RC. Just got my Slayer broke it last weekend, got a real problem with Sag and Drag in the rear. I upped the rear springs to Red/dbl black, seems a little better, but still not great return, still pretty saggy. Is this something with the stock shocks, or do I just need to stiffen the springs more? This is my first real RC car, love it. It really does run like a raped ape, I've barely begun to really experience what it can really do when I open it up. There is a race track not far from my home, any suggestions for my first time out?

i have been wondering a few things about my slayer why is the those loops in the fule line? how much weight dose the aluminum parts add? and dose enyone else have problems with the throttel survo going flkey?

we took all the loops out of our fuel lines.a week after my son bought his slayer his throttle servo went out.we installed hitech metal gear servos and had no probs at all.the owner of the local hobby shop we go to said he has replaced alot of customers servos on slayers.

The loops in the throttle line are there so the truck will run longer when it is flipped over. I have had a few throttle servos go bad too. I got the traxxas ones for free, but got sick of having to replace them at least every month so i too got a Hitec metal gear servo. I havent had a problem since and its been a year and a half.

yea man the throttle return spring on the revo and slayer are way to stiff ... we run the hitech hs645mg and jr sport st125mg on our throttles. seems pretty senseless to use a servo so small from the factory. all the fuel line seems to tame down the mid tank lean condition a bit .. run about 12" - 18" on the pressure side and it will help also

OK, so new to this group, and very new to RC. Just got my Slayer broke it last weekend, got a real problem with Sag and Drag in the rear. I upped the rear springs to Red/dbl black, seems a little better, but still not great return, still pretty saggy. Is this something with the stock shocks, or do I just need to stiffen the springs more? This is my first real RC car, love it. It really does run like a raped ape, I've barely begun to really experience what it can really do when I open it up. There is a race track not far from my home, any suggestions for my first time out?

Thanks,

You also have to remember that these shocks are oil shocks. Oil Shocks will not return the truck to the upper extents of the suspensions travel because there is no pressure inside the shock as compared to a gas operated shock. The oil/piston inside the shock provides the dampening and dampening only, and the spring sets the ride height and helps aid in some of the return when the weight is unloaded off of the tire. When you push the truck down, the little bit of raising action you see when you let go of the bumper is the springs raising it back up some.

Now if you were to put on a spring stiff enough to return the truck back to it's upper position, the truck would handle horribly and would more than likely barrel roll every time you turned.

And so it does indeed go. I stiffened up the rear of my slayer with some red/dbl purple (I think 3.2's) and was able to run it some today. While it did have a much nicer look to the ride, I also rolled it multiple times. Back to the drawing board, I've got something in the middle, will try those and see what I get.
In a new topic, I am having a hell of a time getting this thing tuned in. It seems the idle is too high, and it wants to roll off on me, and will actually accelerate without any throttle action. But as I back off the low speed jet or adjust the idle set screw, it goes to cutting out on me. Most frequently, it will push against me to take off after I start it, and then a minute later (usually 200ft away from me) it will just die as I corner or stop. HELP.

You really don't want to adjust the idle with the idle screw. All the idle screw is for is to set your slide gap and then tune the LSN accordingly.

Set your carb back to factory settings, LSN flush with the slide and HSN 4 turns out from lightly seated. Ok now take off your air filter assembly and use the idle screw to set the slide gap to about 1mm or a little less. Now start the engine and warm it up until it gets about 215 220F. Mine usually runs really lean on factory settings and the idle is really unstable do to it being lean. I'll then start richening up the LSN until the idle becomes stable and holds a steady rpm without stalling. Now if you have to set the LSN really rich for it to idle stable and it bogs and stalls on take off, then you need to close your slide gap a little more and retune the LSN.

Then on the HSN I normally tune that by temp and try to get a temp of 240 after a few WOT passes.

They go on pretty easy. you just have to drill a hole in each of the rear rockers. they send everything with, a drill bit and a little jig to make sure the hole is in the right spot. Just follow the instructions and everything should go pretty easy.