Hey does anybody know of anywhere there has been testing done on this power supply (to see variation under load, power output on 12 vs 5v and 3.3v) im trying to figure out if this is a solution that will run a stable pc or if it will be the source of instability in a pc.

Can anybody do any testing with thier power supply to see if and under what type of load this power supply falls outside of the ATX DC voltage regulations listed on page 13 of the ATX 2.2 Standards? I would realy like to know how much these things variate and if they even come close to falling into the ATX standards. Most desktop power supplies fall short on the ATX standard due to DC voltage issues.

I'm using the Opus DCX6-320 and have been very satisfied with it. Just to give you a rundown on what it can power from my experience, read the list below:

I have it connected to an Shuttle FT20 motherboard with three thermaltake 80mm fans while running a 2.2Ghz dual core socket 939 processor, 2x2GB of system ram, a dedicated PCI-Express GPU card - the BFG Nvidia GeForce 8500GT 1GB DDR2, Sound Blaster X-Fi Professional series add-in sound card with 64MB of XRAM.

For the hard drives, I have two 3.5", WD150AFD 10,000 rpm Raptors in RAID0 (the pair have since been replaced by a 300GB, 10,000 RPM VelociRaptor, and a 7,200 RPM, 1.5 Terabyte Seagate Barracuda). Also connected to the power supply is a full sized 24X Samsung lightscribe multi-format dvd burner, a Dynex 30 in 1 multi-format USB memory card reader, three four-port USB hubs daisy chained, totaling twelve peripherals that are always on. Drive letters B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, O, P, are in use by Windows Vista.

If you thought like I did, that the PSU was already at maximum overload, get this- the DCX6-320 is also providing a constant 12Volt regulated power output to my seventeen inch widescreen flat panel LCD display!

Rest assured, tried, tested, and approved...this is the only power supply you would realistically ever need for automotive purposes.

Bang for the buck, I'll admit the Opus DC6-320 is a tad bit on the high side, nevertheless, it has been in use for over a year now and has outperformed the actual PSU that came with the Shuttle ST20G5 gaming PC box, and also the Antec450 aftermarket PSU.

I ordered mine online, through www.opussolutions.com. The package arrived on time as promised, double boxed with popcorn foam. Included were the wiring harness (2 ea), external mount LED with connector, various jumpers, and installation instructions.

The DCX6-320 is assembled with superior craftsmanship using some of the finest electronic components. I give it a 10 out of 10 kick*** product rating

~DMand

This is almost the configuration that I want to run in my CarPC. I have a Shuttle BareBones XPC that I want to use, would this Power Supply work or does the MOBO have to support it, or would I have to go the Inverter route?

Nevermind, I found the answer to my question. Sorry to be such a Noob but there's a lot of stuff to read in these forums. Looks like the 360W OPUS is the newer version so I'll probably go with that. Thanks for the review!!

Quick question...The ground wires (3 of them), and the 12v to the battery (3 of them) , should those just be "tied" together?? And why was it done like that?

Why not just one for each? Example...one to the 12v one to the Battery ground, one to the ACC?

The OPUS 320, handles 320 Watts, so you have to use a heavy gauge wire. I think rather then using a heavy 8 gauge and lower, which may be hard to work with, they simply made them seperate. For me this idea worked. I split the end of my 8 gauge wire into 3 areas, tied the 3 OPUS wires onto the 8 gauge, then weaved them into one, then soldered them.

So basically it was done to make it easy to work with. So yes, use all three on each side. It could have also been for financial reasons. Its cheaper to have 3 smaller wires then one big one maybe? I think its my first conclusion though.

summer69guy, you know better. I answered this very question for someone else a few posts up.

POST:

The OPUS 320 (360), handles 320 (360) Watts, so you have to use a heavy gauge wire. I think rather then using a heavy 8 gauge and lower, which may be hard to work with, they simply made them seperate. For me this idea worked. I split the end of my 8 gauge wire into 3 areas, tied the 3 OPUS wires onto the 8 gauge, then weaved them into one, then soldered them.

So basically it was done to make it easy to work with. So yes, use all three on each side. It could have also been for financial reasons. Its cheaper to have 3 smaller wires then one big one maybe? I think its my first conclusion though.