Add fuel
stabilizer (Stabil or equivalent) to fuel
tank(s) per directions. It’s always best to top off your fuel tank(s) to
prevent condensation over layup.

Start and run
motor on muffs at high idle (~2000 rpms) in
neutral for 15 to 20 minutes. This will warm up the gear lube allowing it
to drain faster, and warm up the motor oil so that it can be sucked out.

Remove flame
arrestor and fog engine with fogging oil. Try to use a full can, and spray
into carburetor until motor dies, or turn off the motor immediately after
the can is empty.

Using an oil
sucker, remove oil from motor through the dipstick. If you don’t have a
sucker, try to get a shallow drain pan under oil plug, or drain into bilge
and out the rear drain plug (not recommended).

Drain lower unit
gear lube. If gear lube is milky, your lower unit will need to be resealed
and pressure tested. Take it to a qualified marine mechanic.

Open petcocks or
drains on block, manifolds, and risers and drain out all water. If nothing
comes out, use an ice pick and poke into holes. Often sediment will
restrict the opening, which prevents water from draining. For late model Volvo/Pentas and Bravo drives, also remove hoses going to the raw water pump in the engine compartment and drain.

Closed Cooling
System Only: Drain heat exchanger and check antifreeze. Do not drain
block, manifolds, risers, or power steering cooler unless you are
replacing the antifreeze.

Remove coolant
hoses from thermostat housing that lead to the manifolds and pour in pink
RV antifreeze (-50 F) into hoses until you see pink running out of
manifold and block drains (usually a half gallon is sufficient).

If motor is
equipped with power steering and has a power steering cooler (most V-6s,
V-8s, and some 4 cylinders), drain it. You may need to remove a power
steering coolant hose to do so if not equipped with a drain plug.

Close petcocks
and/or replace drain plugs.

If boat is used
in salt water, fill block and risers with RV antifreeze.