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In a piston valve, the control of stem and seat leakage is obtained by tightness of the valve sealing rings to the body and valve plug. The bonnet compresses the valve sealing rings against the body and the valve plug. Flexible disc springs automatically assure a tight seal by exerting pressure on the valve sealing rings, keeping them compressed. Opening and Closing the TVS Isolation Valves The isolation valve begins to stop flow when the valve plug enters the lower valve sealing ring. When the isolation valve is completely closed, the valve plug is in contact with the full height of the valve sealing rings, ensuring the best possible seal. In fact, there is no advantage to be gained in torqueing the valve closed. Armstrong recommends that after closing the isolation valves completely, the handwheel should be turned back one half turn. This makes it easy to re-open the valve by avoiding metal to metal seizure. Troubleshooting – Isolation Valves A piston valve will retain its leak tightness for several years without maintenance. In severe service, such as rapid heating and cooling, some field maintenance may be required. Depending on the problem, these simple steps may help: ! ! ! ! ! Isolation Valve leaks, when the valve is closed . First, Check to make sure the valve is actually closed . Check to see if bonnet is seated on the body, if not, tighten the bonnet nuts until the bonnet seats. This recompresses the valve sealing rings against the body and the valve plug. If valve continues to leak, replace the isolation valve assembly

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race harness kit, air funnel kit, racing oil pump gearing kit, adjustable camshaft sprocket kit, manual camshaft tensioner and blade kit, a reusable engine cover gasket set and racing cylinder head gaskets. Here’s a closer look at the new racing parts and their associated performance improvements: TRACS – Triumph Race Calibration Software TRACS ( T riumph Ra ce C alibration S oftware) is a new computer program that allows racers to tune Triumph’s programmable race ECU from a laptop PC. Developed by one of Triumph’s most experienced EFI calibration engineers, the programmable ECU and software was created for the growing number of competitors that are riding Triumph motorcycles at the track. The new software provides racers with quick access to a wide range of adjustments that can be downloaded to the race ECU in about 35 seconds for tuning during testing, practice and qualifying sessions. Features include: Fully programmable fuel mapping (500rpm increments, for individual cylinders). Fully programmable ignition mapping. Switchable wet and dry maps. Adjustable pit lane speed limiter and speedo calibration. Adjustable quickshifter cut duration (adjustable at low, mid and high RPM) Adjustable rev limiter up to 15,000rpm. New software strategies to improve throttle progression. Optimized software to run faster to cater for the higher RPMs involved in a race environment. Ability to save multiple maps within the memory of the PC. Ability to update an existing 2007/2008 Race ECU to 2009 specification and functionality.* (*Not all features will be available if using the 2007/08 Race harness.) Exhaust – Triumph/Arrow Titanium “Stage 3″ System Triumph has continued to collaborate with Italian race exhaust specialists Arrow Special Parts to develop a new, full titanium racing exhaust system. This system complies with current FIM regulations, works as part of the factory race kit, and offers a significant weight reduction and considerable power gains.

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Remove tappet assemblies from engine being sure that each one is kept with it’soriginal tappet block. NOTE: This procedure is the preferred method of installation. However, kit can be installed without removing lifters from engine. 2. Remove hydraulic piston retaining wire clip from one assembly at a time. Be careful not to bend wire clip during disassembly. 3. Completely disassemble tappet removing all parts. 4. Thoroughly clean all parts including tappet body. Remove any oil which might prevent hydraulic unit from fully collapsing during adjustment. 5. Insert one spacer from S&S HL 2 Tkit in tappet body. 6. Reassemble tappet in reverse order making sure original parts arereturned to their original positions. See Picture1. 7. Replace wire retaining clip in tappet body. 8. Put tappet back in original tappet block. 9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 for three remaining tappets. 10. Reassemble engine with modified tappets. 11. Adjust pushrods. NOTE – In all cases engine must be cold and lifter must be at lowest point of travel for pushrod adjustment To prevent accidents, remove ground cable from battery. A. Remove spark plugs. B. Bring piston to TDC on compression stroke in cylinder to be adjusted. Normally both tappets will be at their lowest point of travel. C. Extend pushrod adjustment, collapsing lifter until piston assembly is in contact with HL 2 Tspacer and pushrod is tight. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are readjusted after engine has been run, or if all oil was not removed during installation, extend pushrod adjustment until valve is open (about five additional turns of adjusting screw). Allow 5 minutes for hydraulic unit to bleed down. If pushrod can be turned with fingers after bleeding down, lifter is not completely collapsed, and this step must be repeated. NOTE – perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn engine until pushrod adjustment is complete. Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in valve to valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve train damage. D. Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated with the fingers with slight drag. NOTE – Shortening adjuster an additional six flats or full turn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This provides additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve the ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zerolash under normal operating conditions. E. Tighten lock nut. F. Follow the same procedure for all four push rods. G. Recheck pushrod adjustment after a few hundred miles. NOTES ● It is a good idea to recheck pushrod adjustment in a new engine as valve train may tighten up due to gasket compression and valve seat wear. ● Upon initial start up after modification, HL 2 Tequipped lifters may be somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles. If lifters are still noisy after 20 miles it is recommended that pushrods be adjusted 1⁄2 turnlooser. See step D

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A.) REAR WHEEL REMOVAL- PAGE 14-16 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Support motorcycle on center stand or center lift so rear wheel is suspended and there is clearance for removal. Use tie downs. 2.) If both wheels are raised chock the front wheel to prevent any weight shift when rear wheel is removed. 3.) Remove chain guard. 4.) Remove caliper and support so there is no strain on the brake line. 5.) Remove both silencers from exhaust headers. 6.) Remove axle nut and washer—support or chock rear wheel—and slide out axle. 7.) Disengage chain from sprocket and hang over swing—use soft cloth to protect swing arm from scratches that will occur if you do not cover. 8.) Lower wheel to the ground and collect spacer and caliper support arm and all fasteners for re-assembly. B.) REMOVE SEAT PAGE 15-9 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Remove the 12 mm bolt from rear seat section—if you have a pillion pad remove it first by removing the 8 mm bolt, slide forward and lift free of seat catch. Take a position where you can see what you are doing or you will scratch your painted surface. 2.) Lift seat from the rear and slide backwards to disengage tongue– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. C.) REMOVE REAR MUD GUARD PAGE 15-14 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Disconnect battery and remove from motorcycle. 2.) Disconnect electrical connectors on the underside of the mudguard. 3.) Support fender from beneath and remove the 4 side allen head mount bolts and 2 12mm hex head top front mount bolts– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. D.) REMOVE FUEL TANK PAGE 9-11 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Turn off fuel tap. 2.) Remove fuel line at the tap connection. 3.) Remove the 12mm rear tank-mounting bolt. 4.) With assistance from another set of hands support tank at the rear and lift so that the breather line is visible on the right side of the underside of tank—remove and plug line. 5.) With tank raised and supported at the rear slide backwards— disengaging it from the front mounting rubbers—set tank aside in a safe place to prevent any damage to the painted surface. E.) REMOVE SIDE COVERS PAGE 15-10 and 9-15 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Loosen and remove left side cover screws on the air filter facade— lift slightly to disengage top mounts and remove—set aside in a safe place to prevent damage to painted surface. 2.) On right side cover simply and gently pull bayonet fittings from rubber slip mounts. 3.) Secure these rubber mounts and remove for later re-assembly with the Bonneville Performance brackets.

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PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock

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1. The Float The float bowl acts as a fuel reservoir to meet engine demand. The float is hinged on a pin in the float boss. It rises and falls with the fuel level in the float bowl. The small metal tang integrated in the plastic float supports the float valve, also known as the float needle. As the fuel in the float bowl rises, the float valve is pushed into the valve seat, until it’s high enough to shut off the fuel flow to the bowl. As fuel is used the level in the bowl drops lowering the float which pulls the float valve from its seat, and fills again. Adjusting the height of the float has a big effect on the mixture as a low or high float level makes it harder or easier for the vacuum to suck fuel into the venturi. Differing float levels cause an imbalance which may be perceived as vibration. 2. The Choke This system is referred to as the choke. But that’s a misnomer. When you pull the choke knob, what you’re doing is retracting a plunger that opens a tube connected to the starter jet, allowing additional fuel to enter the venturi just below the vacuum hose nipple. It supplements the pilot system at start up. 3. The Pilot System The primary purpose of the pilot system is to supply the mixture at idle. It continues to supply fuel throughout the entire throttle range, but after about 1/8 throttle is reached the main system starts to put out more of the total mixture, up to full throttle. By adjusting the idle with the big screw on the left side of the carburettors the position of the butterfly is altered, so exposing one or more of the four small holes that are drilled into the venturi, (leading to the pilot jet) just under the butterfly valve, letting more or less air pass the butterfly. Adjusting the pilot screw that’s under the carburettor varies the amount of air premixing with the fuel before it enters the venturi. 4. The Main System Open the throttle and the cable that’s connected to the butterfly valve turns it from vertical to horizontal, so letting more air through the venturi. This increases the vacuum effect that is transferred up through the vacuum drilling in the slide to the diaphragm valve that leads to the diaphragm chamber. The top chamber is separated from the bottom by a rubber diaphragm. The bottom chamber is open to atmospheric pressure from the airbox. When the vacuum in the top chamber rises enough, the constant ambient pressure of the lower chamber helps the diaphragm valve overcome the downward force of the diaphragm spring, so it rises from the ven- turi. As the diaphragm is raised the needle is pulled out of the needle jet, exposing a thinner portion of the needle taper which allows more fuel to rise into the venturi to meet the increased engine demand. The key parts of the main system are shown in the photo below

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Repair Manual corrections have been made to the Valve Clearance Adjustment procedures for the 2000 model year Celica GTS with the 2ZZ–GE engine to allow effective use of the Special Service Tool. For more information on replacement of the SST Swing Arm refer to TSB SS002–00, Valve Clearance Adjusting compressor Swing Arm Retrofit – ’00 Celica GTS