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Summary

Some minor changes to my filament pusher inspired by Tom's update (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16928).
I have incorporated a filament guide on the idler (and coined the term guidler).
I also took his modification so the front bearing doesnt rub and I have included a printed spacer so the bottom bearing doesnt rub either (just insert it before the bearing).
I also widened the opening a bit for better access to the hobbing (another of Tom's ideas).
I also included one of Triffid Hunter's suggestions to modify the hinge support piece slightly to make it easier to remove.

Making any thermoplastic extruder body out of PLA is a bad idea, since its glass transition temperature and melting temperature are both far too low to deal with the heat generated in melting plastic below it. You might be able to get away with printing PLA with it if you have a powerful fan cooling the extruder, but otherwise it's a waste of time and PLA.

Just curious to know if you've had any problems when making this in PLA. Becuse I printed your previous version in PLA, but when I used it, the heat from the hot-ens started to soften the PLA, and combined with the pressure it bent a bit, which resulted in poor prints. Currently getting my old Makerbot up and running with ABS again to see if that helps.

I use PLA, but I also use an all metal extruder that requires a fan on the heatsink on the extruder barrel. This keeps everything nice and cool at the cold end of the hotend, so there is no problem with either a PLA x-carriage or extruder body.

I am having this problem as well. I generated the stl from the scad in Greg's github .. membranes are there. Sliced with slic3r and no membranes. I didn't check the gcode and printed. Beautiful print except for the membranes. Anyone come up with a solution to this?

Hi Greg. I've been trying to catch you on IRC for a few days to ask where I can find the parameter that controls how far apart the extruder mounting holes are. Maybe the naming is throwing me off, but I cannot find it in the scad file.

Greg, can I suggest that you have a small tab connecting the "island" of the break-away support to the main part of the extruder body -- when printing in ABS on a heated platform, it is quite easy for that small island to lift off in those first few layers before it gets to the point of connecting to the main body.

I notice that the previous version of your extruder had this island start off as a full rectangle, which increases the contact area and removes the actute angle corners of the island. Around line 275 there is a -layer_thickness which when changed to +layer_thickness, will reinstate the rectangular contact patch. It prints with no problems now.

That sounds like you are having general adhesion problems - the support piece has never been a problem for me.

You might want to check your bed temperature (i use ~115
Ã‚Â°C with PET tape) with an infrared thermometer and wipe off your bed with acetone every now and then. When using Kapton, i can barely get my prints off the bed, even when cooled down.

Awesome. This is the most elegant and useful/usable extruder design so far, I think!

What I really like are these "tiltable idler screws" in combination with slotted (open to the top) idler screw holes, so that there's no need to entirely remove the screws to open the idler as seen here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16766http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
Is there a chance for this feature to be added? ;-) I w
ould heavily appreciate that!

What do you want specifically? The scad produces a plate that includes the body, idler and bearing spacer ring, but you have to choose which hotend mount you want. I have added a plate with the Jhead mount and the groovemount.

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