For those new to gunpla/plamo or even just new to this thread; please read the guide. Please read it before asking questions, as there is a chance it has already been answered there.

For those unfamiliar, "plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model". If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here!If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!

>Why won't anyone answer my question?Try being specific, especially about your materials and process. Post pictures whenever possible; even if the kit/part looks bad, you are more likely to get help posting pictures.

>Why are my pictures sideways?4chan strips EXIF data from images when they're uploaded to the website from your phone, including the orientation display tag. To solve this, save your images out separately, or use an app that will rotate and save the image itself for you.One commonly used app that works well on Android:https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.simplemobilephotoresizer

Build a mobile suit/mecha that is designed to fill a non-military role. This includes (but is not limited to):>Police/Emergency work>Construction/repairs>Racing/Sports>Public displays/restoration projects

Weapons are allowed only in the case that they would fit with the theme of the model (A pistol/rifle on a police mech, an axe on a fire fighter mech, a drill on a construction mech, etc).

Submit your finished entries to gunplaplamo@gmail.com with a name for the entry and at least 5 photos of the finished kit and either any WIP images you might have taken of it or a timestamp of the kit with something /m/ related on it.

So I'm in the process of building my first Gunpla in over 15 years. Starting off with this HGUC Gundam Mk-II for beginner's practice, but I got a couple of questions.

First, after I get the panel-lining done, I got Tamiya weathering masters and matte topcoat to apply, but what's the order I should do them in? I was thinking weathering and then topcoat to seal all the work in. Or should I also do a topcoat layer immediately after the panel-lining so that I don't mess up that work while doing the weathering?

Second, I tried doing seamline removal with extra thin cement and sanding where needed, but I still see now-shiny lines in the middle of the sanded parts, especially on the dark blue backpack. Does the matte topcoat help eliminate that? I'm becoming concerned that when I get to the head, I won't be able to get rid of the seamline that goes around the whole piece without delving into painting.

>>16252779Topcoat might help a bit, but you'll probably still see some marks. The sanded plastic will be a lighter colour than the rest. Honestly, probably not a good idea to do seam line removal if you're not comfortable with painting your kit.

>>16253042Interesting. I mean there's nothing wrong with gunpla, and this is the Mecha board, it's just that pretty much every Mecha series has its own kits, but I only see the gunpla. I'll see what /toy/ has going on

>>16253046OP says plamo general. It's not necessarily more scale models, but more Mecha kits. I mean it's the plamo thread on the Mecha board, but it's just Gundam. Buy a zoid or an aura battler kit or something

>>16253125Yes. Details are hand painted, which I wish I was better at. Did a ton of dry brushing and detailing, but still finding more stuff to paint as it look through.This was my first PG kit. After this I can't imagine going back to smaller scale kits.

>>16252779Give the seams some more sanding otherwise like >>16252808 said it'll be uneven, both color-wise and texture-wise.

I think it's actually recommended to do topcoating, then weathering, then possibly another top coat after. I've read that the weathering doesn't adhere well to bare plastic, but maybe someone who's done more will know.

>>16252861I built 15+ kits of various nature, HG, RG, MG and so on, I changed my blade only once, dunno why would you be so wasteful, it doesn't dull so easily, at least mine don't, I just cut my thumb 2 days ago because the piece I was cleaning was really small, by just touching it without too much force.

>>16252779Try this: Assuming you have regular tamiya or mr cement deluxe:Take piece of runner it came off of and cut it flat on the end, brush some tamiya on (extra thin doesn't work well for this because it evaporates too fast) then give it a bit (few seconds to a minute based on plastic density).

Then push it on the piece to kind of apply some melted plastic like a gluestick.

The shininess is because you tried to seam weld after the fact it looks like, rather than fill the seam with it. That's why guides say "it'll goop out" because you apply it to the edges, it'll melt a little then put the pieces together and some of the melted plastic will ooze out. After its dried THEN you go back and sand. Also if you accidentally take some off of the edges like that when sanding/filing then the pieces aren't flat and flush, you often end up with a rounded divot between the pieces.

Also what others are saying about discoloring, you can mitigate that.

>>16252763Weathering masters is a powder so it needs a roughed surface to adhere to better.

You need to matte coat before using powder weathering products or pastels. Then you topcoat over them. Powders don't adhere to bare plastic or gloss coat well.

Also avoid trying to do seam line removal with thin cement.

Good luck buddy. Be careful getting advice in the threads, there are some who are new or basically never build but lurk and give secondhand/bad advice. I spent the last year doing nothing but just trying everything and now I've just been jaded on most other builders here.

>>16252296Thanks man, I've got kiddos so gotta stick with acrylics, and tamiya is the only thing available locally that isn't garbage.

>>16253571>Also avoid trying to do seam line removal with thin cement.Not him, but I haven't had too much of a bad time seaming with extra thin, but I've only practiced on white pieces so far so that might be why they've looked good despite.

>>16253586The thing is, you use so much of it to do a good invisible seam reliably there's no reason to use it anymore.

Honestly, I started gunpla last year in feb and have been smashing through kits and learning new stuff since.

If you know a good way to do it, share man I'd love to have a better understanding.

Also big shoutout to limonene cement, it's good stuff, and while it's bad for seam removal and runner putty, it's great for being a main use cement despite a longer drying time because of almost no fumes and very low to no toxicity.

>>16253594Nah, I'm just learning on doing seam lines. I practiced on my RX-78 revive and the legs didn't come out too bad, so I tried on the arms/feet of the Qubeley and it looks pretty good, but I haven't gotten to top coating any kits yet so it'd probably look even fainter then.

But those are all lighter plastic, so I'm not sure. Extra thin probably won't make enough of a closed seam on darker plastic.

>>16253611Alright, well just a few things I wish someone would have told me:(all on tamiya cements)Extra Thin only melts a very small amount of plastic, some evaporates and some becomes part of the plastic.

Limonene is safer to breath in, melts the plastic slower because it's literally made from a chemical found and extracted from citrus fruit peels.

Regular works very good for seam welds because it melts a good bit of plastic and a good amount of plastic (not mostly cement-plastic mix) comes out of the seam, thus filling it and making it less discernible.

I went into this trying to make the nicest bare kit I could, with mild detail painting, panel lining, seam welding, and post shading via pastels, and recently I think I'm getting to near the edge of what I can do without paint.

Next steps are to start scribing more details on every kit or adding aftermarket parts as well as plaplate details.

>>16252649I thought he was the store manager when ever I went in he was tending to the machine in the back in front of the gunpla isle that has a bit of a high rise to it>>16252567I just saw it as they didn't want my money so I shop elsewhere now.>>16252560Yeah they do sell the campaign parts for like 6$ and they NEVER had the raffle tickets. I had to get mine from some kind anon that goes to the laurel store. The 10 cent bag tax is a rockville/DC thing to cut down on waste. they figured if you paid for bags you'd save them or bring your own bag, which I always do when I visit that area. everyone has tote/bookbags there.

Any anons going to katsu? I hope they have a lot of P-bandai like Ota did

>>16252392>>16252567From the sounds of it, they weren't actually looking through the stuff. By checking it means you have to leave it up at the front or you can't shop there. A record store near me does that.

>>16253714I went once a couple years ago and decided against going again I felt old and out of place . From what I know its the bluefin booth that has all the relatively cheap p-bandai stuff at local cons and I don't recall them ever having a booth at katsu. There's like only one other booth that ever has p-bandai and you can expect the usual markup on them.

I swear I've seen custom builds for almost every single one of my kits that makes me want to drop money on a air brush and a compressor and attempt this shit in the dead of winter. Although this one has some additional plaplate added on.

This would be great without the edge highlighting. It looks weird as hell and in some cases it is very illogical. For example on the feet there is highlighting where shading would make a lot more sense.

>RG MK.II's front skirt fell againI give up, I'll just display him without it. I tried glueing it a fuckton of times and it's still falling off. I lost one of the backpack thrusters while trying to fix him because that shit keeps popping off too.

>>16254330I don't get why people bother with high grades, or real grades, they're too small. If you plan on buying a few kits (which you should because normies will visit your place sooner or later) buy good one's. Get yourself a good MG, my first and only kit is a PG Unicorn and it took me less than a month working on it 7 to 10 hours a week, probably less actually.

>>16254340I'm not that beta to think about having few kits because of that, the thing is, I have problems investing on HGs because they look (and are) cheap, but if 00 Raiser RG is too complex I might fuck up and waste my money.

I like the 1/144 scale and I plan on buying HGs to paint and panel and experimen only if I like the hobby

I lost the green foil decal sheet for my HGAW GX9900. I put on all the decals except for the Satellite Cannon camera lens decal. How fucked am I? A friend suggested metallic green paint but I don't know how i'm gonna get it in that tiny pit without me messing up and making it look like garbage.

inb4 empty boxes. i honestly have no idea what to build first though. haven't built a rg before and the only other mg i have is tallgeese. i might save some of the hgs in case i can you use them for the next group build.

>>16254370If you just snap it with nothing beyond that, all of them look cheap. The logic behind this never makes sense to me.

Don't take advice like from that one fag who's only built one super modern status symbol kit.

PG is extremely easy also. When he posts high res pictures for scrutiny that's when he's worth listening to. Until he posts the nubbed or stress marked 200 dollar piece of trash his opinion goes into the trash.

>>16254477Sorry if it came off salty and dickish but when I started in this thread a year ago, I got tons of bad advice. When I came back to talk results and figure out where I went wrong only one person had answers, and the rest were clueless. Seriously one whole year of slowly watching the thread give out bad advice, and people in your same shoes (first handful of kits) purporting to know anything of value, and weighing opinions on things they can't speak of in any meaningful way.

I hated that snapfag guy who was always posting his same shitty snaps in here but he called that shit on the nose. Plenty of people here are dirty snaps or just lurkers who put something together once and are bored.

>>16254474Because to praise that is to make all of them feel better about putting low or no effort into their kits.

They have a thing called speed building where they just cut 9-10 kits or more out of runners in a single day/sitting. Imagine the money lost when some do it one to two times a month. That's more than some good honest anons get to do in a year.

So they want to celebrate that you can get a good result with a sticker over admitting that it's really not that hard to learn how to stroke a little orange or metallic paint on a kit.

>>16254527I get the feeling from the constant groupbuilds and the number of submissions that there are a decent number of people working on and painting their kits, but only a handful of those people actually post WIP shots in the thread instead of just submit the finished builds to GBD when the due date comes up.

>>16254518Well there's nothing wrong with just cutting pieces out of the runner and slapping (or snapping) it together. I enjoy it myself sometimes and it doesn't make sense to begrudge someone that relaxation or simple fun.

But I use it in a derogatory sense when discussing people who are bad in that way, like the speed build redditors smash a hundred or more dollars in kits out then basically throw them into the trash, or people who just snap kits but feel like a pro despite avoiding doing any more work on it either out of fear or any number of legitimate reason. They make the environment worse, and while you can have a great small community on 4chan, anonymous makes stuff like that much worse.

>>16254534Yeah I post in discords but not in the thread because I doubt anyone cares about what I'm doing and I'm not seeking attention.

>>16254572This is the soul of gunpla. You open all the boxes, throw the runners in the air, and cut things out of runners as they fall.

>>16254592No one is wronging them for having fun doing that. It just fucking sucks when they get uppity and try to tear you down for spending 2+ weeks on one kit, or having only snapped try to give you advice on things like shading, or tuning a kit.

You could shove the runners up your ass whole for all I care, but when you bring others down with it because of your insecurities because you run from challenge, there's a problem. No doubt there are perfectly fine speed snappers out there.

Also I'm guessing this thread has gotten more crossposters based on people posting reddit pictures and defending it.

>>16254545>because I doubt anyone cares about what I'm doing and I'm not seeking attention.But I care, anon. I like to see what everyone's doing. And while I don't mind when it doesn't happen, I much prefer threads where everyone's posting their builds cause it gives me lots of good images to potentially showcase in the OP.

>>16253571>The shininess is because you tried to seam weld after the fact it looks like, rather than fill the seam with it.I used the Tamiya extra thin cement both between the pieces before squeezing together as well as putting a layer on top of the seam. That's what the videos seemed to suggest anyway. Though I had the impression that I could do fine by just extra thin, however, it does feel inadequate in practice. With it's wateriness, I'm not really seeing either the melting effect or the "goop out" from squeezing. I guess I ought to give in to getting the white-capped regular cement before putting together the weapons and head with their huge seam lines.

The discolor from sanding only appears to be drastic on the dark blue parts. I'll try sanding some more to even out the color across those surfaces, but hopefully the weathering will help to disguise it along with the matte.

>Weathering masters is a powder so it needs a roughed surface to adhere to better.I guess I would find that out soon enough if I tried powdering the raw plastic. Looking at additional guides, I see now that topcoat-then-powder is the recommendation.

My overall goal with the weathering is to give the entire body a more-realistic shading, similar to what I saw demonstrated in this video: https://youtu.be/Ikk7ybBiP1I?t=5m16s However, that was done with a marker, not powder. Can I achieve a similar finished look, or does powder not spread like that?

>>16254849Went through a few videos to show you what I mean:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6C2-SKxBEI

So extra thin only melts a very small amount of the plastic, enough to weld the two sides together.

The discoloration you're seeing from sanding/filing is just it getting a matte texture which reflects less light making it look darker. If you use gradual grades of sandpaper you could bring it back to that shine, esp if you pick up a nail buffing block makes it a breeze.

Powder DOES work well like that, I grabbed a cheapo pack of soft pastels at the local craft store, grind some off with a hobby knife and use a makeup applicator to put it into creases. I'll try to find a video that showed me about it.

He has videos also showing him doing a wash with them (added to water and a drop of soap to replace panel line markers/wash/accent) and weathering. One cheapo product that saves importing like 4+ others.

>>16254876Yeah that's one of the videos I saw. Guess the combination of regular and extra thin is important.

One thing I find remarkable compared to the turn-of-the-millennium models, though, is the improved engineering to eliminate the need for seam-removal altogether. As I recall from back then, clamshell parts like in that video were the norm, but this 2015 model >>16252763 has a lot of tricks to get rid of or sensibly hide seams, even as an HG. The lower leg isn't a clamshell, but rather four separate armor pieces that come together on a central limb. The forearm _is_ a clamshell, but the seam there is purposefully meant to be a finished panel line. Similarly, the foot guard and knee joint has a seam on one side, but it's matched by a panel line on the opposite side, so the seam is meant to be a panel line, too.

And truth be told, I'm only just using an HG for first-time practice. I'm actually interested in MGs (of which I already have a Zaku on standby) and maybe some RGs. Do such modern models have even less seams to deal with than HGs?

>>16254969You don't need extra thin. There are some occasions where it'll cut out some work, but I tried doing it with extra thin before I got regular and limonene. I ended up slathering it on and having to give it some seconds then put more on to make sure it was well melted before pushing together.

The Origins RX >>16254828is mine, and whether you realize or not when looking you're staring at seams out the ass.

RGs I've only seen one seam on an rg so far (upper back of calve on exia) and I just scraped it with a knife and panel lined it lazily.

HGs come and go, if you do something more modern you'll not see them, like origins guncannon, which I've built three of for my kids and they're a fun little build that looks great.

I wouldn't sweat seams that much. If you care enough get some regular tamiya or some mr cement deluxe and a few old 3 dollar HGs like the 08ms team line and go to town practicing. GM Cold Districts is another seam monstrosity.

>>16254960I've heard people talk about this stuff, and it makes absolutely gorgeous eyes. I'll be getting some myself soon. Apparently because eyes and lenses are so small the shit lasts forever.

>>16253306The build and quality is great. I have no idea why anyone would have anything negative to say aboot this kit. It's apingly solid compared to a MG Zaku, which I think are not too poorly designed.

>>16255014You can 1. sand the FUCK out of it with some 400/600 grit paper to get it really even, as long as it's not the perilous "tiny white dot pulled up by nub shaving" issue I always get on dark plastic

2. use an appropriate gundam marker to lightly touch up the spot and blend it in

3. paint/topcoat the part to cover up or to smooth out the discoloration

>>16255014if (for example) it's a blue part, is the discoloration white, or a darker blue?

If white, it's stress from your hobby blade and can be mitigated by sanding or filing it down instead, or getting a sharper blade or trimming the nub down differently with the same blade.

If it's darker color, that cannot be helped. It is a part of the plastic where for the mold the plastic is forced into, so right where the nub used to be the die and plastic will be most dense and therefore the color will be slightly darker.

>>16255021this was the advice i got last year after snapping an HG Shining as my first kit. The first is...ok but it doesn't mention that sanding leaves its own marks/scores on the pieces that you have to figure out how to deal with, simple enough but the info wasn't given to me, the second is outright dumb because all the kits are just about slightly different colors, and gundam markers are specific variations on the colors. For example there's a seed gundam marker set intended for specific line of seed kits.

Paint will cover but topcoat won't really hide any of those marks.

Pastels can help hide them a lot, more decals. Don't forget when assembling you're looking with intense scrutiny but after being assembled the more details it has, the less visible all the flaws will be.

>>16254977I skimmed over the MG Zaku manual and am pleased to see that there doesn't appear to be any seam problems. Everything seems to be sensibly segmented out, including areas I suspected to be problems like the lower legs and weapons.

Unfortunately, something that I'm not getting practice with on the HG are transfer decals, not just in terms of applying, but also minimizing the final outline. I have a little experience with them as I also dealt with 40k models back in 3rd/4th Ed., but they were definitely a major pain. Perhaps, though, it was only because they were on tiny, curved Space Marine shoulder pads.

>>16255012>>16255015As someone who's actually built one of those old 80s kits, I'll step in and say build the thing first before you paint. Go over the instructions to see what parts you want to move and which you don't, what parts you think you might have a hard time painting once they're glued into place, and THEN start gluing parts together. Once all the glue's done drying putty up any gaps and sand so it's level to the plastic. Now go and paint it all up. Once all the paint's dried/sealed with top coat glue on the parts you thought you might have difficulty painting if they were glued on already.

Putting these old kits isn't actually all that hard, it's just hard making them look passable next to a kit that's come out 20+ years later.

>>16255075Oh, speaking of separate decal sheets, I never really considered them before. Is there any place like dalong that gives example pictures of their use? I know you're suppose to pick and choose what and where you want, but I'm looking at some kit-specific sheets and wondering what they had in mind in making them, especially when it comes to line segments.

>>16255056>>>16255039>Keep Giving Advice, Practice Giving Untested Advice Will Only Make Your Bad Advice Better.>>16255138He ( ^) is an asshole for making fun of a newbie trying to make a conversation and you need reading comprehension

>Examine parts/instructions to see what should and shouldn't be glued together>Build/glue kit together, but make separate assemblies for stuff that requires movement (Arms/legs/head/weapons/etc) and parts that might be a pain to paint if you glued something in place there (Under the skirt of a Zaku for example)>Putty up any blemishes/gaps you might have and sand the FUCK out of it. >Prime and Basecoat the parts in their main colors>Either mask off the parts and spray on secondary colors or handpaint them on manually>Top coat, decals, top coat again

Well Germany absolutely sucks for gunpla. I have a tallgeese III stuck in customs that I have to go pick up myself with the receipt, or pay 30 euros for them to deliver it. On top of paying VAT. Shithole country if I've ever seen one

>>16255161No, but if you're looking for specific things some are made for specific kits. You could get some RG premium sheets meant to replace the sticker decals in RGs and you'll know exactly what you're getting. But the only way to know what's in the pack otherwise is to take a look at the picture.

>>16255247picThis isn't a hugbox. Him taking part in a conversation is fine but he's given at least 3 people advice now on a topic he has ZERO experience with.

>>16255446There's a gunpla flowchart floating around, someone should repost it or I might dig it up.

>>16255514EU just seems to want to punish people for staying indoors and doing peaceful hobbies they love.

>>16255521On one hand I agree that it's dumb to say "I have only built one kit and it was the less than a year old PG Unicorn" then hand out advice on HGs you've never touched, building tactics you haven't used nor know about, and other stuff...at the same time there's no reason to be a dick.

He needs to stop trying to give advice, but there's no urgency to put him into the ground for being dumb.

>>16255521Yeah, I was really starting to like Germany too, took some getting used to and it takes forever to get anywhere, but its quaint. 20% import tax is where I draw the line tho. I guess Seattle is my next best bet

>>16255571>build over a plate>drop a piece>it hits the edge>the combination of angled surface, irregular piece shape and sheer velocity flings it across the room, out of the window, and onto the coat of your long-furred dog that chases a squirrel up the road before getting hit by a car

>>16255639Try a shallow storage container like they sell for leftovers at the grocery. You could go bonus and put that rubber lining stuff for cabinets in it that is nonslip, that way you can remove the contents and knock the dust out every so often.

I snap and sand everything needed for a limb inside of one then panel line, decal, topcoat before assembling. Then paint after.

>>16254416I couldn’t find a good picture of the rifle from the front if that is what you are talking about, but that looks pretty simple, if it is a little cup shape you could just dip the paint in and let it fill the bottom for you. Should do it by itself. Just be careful not to hit the edge of the dip or anything like that and you will be fine.

>>16255566If you are same Germany anon that just talks non stop in every thread about being in Germany you have been there for like two weeks. Think you need to chill out.

>>16255514>>16255521Each member state decides taxes wtf does that have to do with EUThat said you can avoid taxes in your country by shipping via proxy to UK and then to you, but it is really efficient on big orders.

>>16255663Germany has plenty of kickass stuff to see and do. Enjoy the time you get to spend there and check back in with the hobby later. Promise you Gunpla will be here when you get done with experiencing a once in a lifetime opportunity.

>>16256111Got some experience with painting other stuff already, both hand-painting and spray cans. Probably gonna try some panel lining on my next kit, and already got some plans for a fun larger build involving some simple custom parts later on.

How soon will we do the next group build? I want to throw down and I always seem to miss the group builds (or come back here as they end). Haven’t ever built a full on custom, just painted a bit. I just know in some way I would love to make a Build Fighters/Divers Dahack.

>>16256806Any way you want, there's several ways. Painting isn't really a specific nub option unless you're painting the entire kit and the majority of people that wander through here are snapfags so forget their scrutiny.

Sanding is a good option, you can use a hobby knife/xacto if you want but remember that with an xacto you want to shave the nub off, don't try to just cut through it unless your xacto is exceptionally sharp or else you'll leave behind white stress marks.

If you shave the nub off in 5 or so strokes and cutting away from the plastic with a sharp blade it's a pretty effective although more expensive (blades) and slower (have to keep a careful eye on it) way to remove nubs. Nothing wrong with it.

I like to suggest that new guys try sandpaper on a popsicle stick because it's cheap and each piece lasts a lot longer than you'd guess. If you like that method you can invest in some files which given you use them right will last you until you stop using them right.

Working on a design for a custom IBO gundam. How's this look for the parts to use? Would be using a dantalion, Flauros, Bael, and Kimaris Trooper to make it, as well as whatever i decide to cannibalize to make a custom head. I'm also a bit torn on what to use as a backpack.

>>16256881That's basically the price of any medium-sized MG, it's not really that expensive. The only thing I'd be worried about with that kitbash is the Dantalion's parts clash a lot when put next to other IBO gundams since it's generally so different compared to the others. I'd advise against it unless you're super sold on Dantalion's legs.

>>16256853try barbatos vanilla backpack , decent vectorized thruster and a good ranges of options to add weapons ( and also those telescoping backholders ) the feet look weird, if you are going for a minimalistic look use barbatos too

So in the process of just starting out with gunpla >>16252763 and doing panel lining, I quickly realized that I needed better lighting. Didn't want a cheap, stubby desk lamp, though. I wanted a light that was a) overhead rather than at and angle, and b) high enough to not block my monitor as I'm just sitting at my computer desk.

Looking at the options on Amazon, I decided that I might as well go with an LED articulated magnifying lamp.

Anyone have the X model kits from '96? Looking to get the Virsago 1/144 chest break and was wondering how the quality was. The oldest model i have is the 1/100 Serpent Custom, which felt hollow and loose (still good).

>>16257639Proportions are a bit naff, elbow/knee joints are entirely polycaps, with holes at the top and bottom which the leg/arm pieces attach to with pegs so you'll want to replace the joints with aftermarket parts/spares to fix those two issues. Minimal parts separation, too, so get ready to do lots of masking (the gold parts and non-blue chest sections are all foil stickers OOB).I personally have a hate-on for those 90s polycap hands, too. The weapons are always too chunky to fit into HG-sized holding hands, so in some cases your SOL on that score.

>>16258816first few weeks or months I repose them eventually I find a pose I really like and keep it like that. Sometimes if I buy another kit that goes with it, I might have them in a battle pose together.

>>16255658Thanks. I also took another look around the web and some people actually suggested buying a green gundam marker just for this. I think I'll end up buying some markers (should have done it when I was in HK....) but this solution should work for now.

I do.I'm currently waiting on a box I mailed myself a few weeks ago from Nagoya.

Wagtail Appendix, Build Summer Campaigns C-G, and I think even a few of those free 1/144 action bases they gave out with the first runs of the HGIBO kits. Namely clear blue Gjallahorn and orange/brown Teiwaz stands.

As soon as that gets in I'll post here.

Alternatively, shoot me an e-mail at lizardbot4k@gmail.com and I can update you personally.

>>16258944>I build! But very sparingly. I just don't have the time anymore unfortunately.>Right meow I'm working on a 1/144 custom Jegan and 3 MG Jestas and 1 Jesta Cannon.Dang, that's definitely more than I'm building.

Have you built the Birnam Corps Jegan? There's something about the purple and black against the pink beam sabers and the orange on that lance that is just so good.

I've been thinking about buying a few of the P-Bandai Jegans that came out last year.

I would say I've only built and painted 6 of the MGs in that picture (Unicorn, Tallgeese, Zeta C, GM Sniper 2 still needs to be painted, Origin, and Char's Zaku 2) and the RG Unicorn within the past 6 or so months.

I got a glut of the HGBF kits/option parts for free so I'm definitely going to use them to kitbash.

But this here is also part of the backlog problem. I had this insane idea for an 8 armed giant Graze Ashura type of thing and got switched onto Jegans and Jestas again as I started watching Metal Gear Solid streams during builds.

Is there anywhere out there that has a comprehensive list of all of the dengeki hobby add-on parts, and other things along those lines? I have a passing interest in them, but finding information for them has been a bit of a pain.

>>16258944>'m trying to clear my workspace out haha. I'm not quitting the hobby but I just have way too many part appendices and kits that I know in my heart will never get built up.>>So might as well give it away to people who would actually get a kick out of it!Oh wow so you are actually selling some of that? Do you happen to have a list of what you are selling?

>>16259759Nah, BB Senshi Unicorn and banshee had plenty of clear parts and could transform. And when I say hollow gaps, I don't mean a couple little holes in the back of the leg spaced around the details and if you add a little putty it fills it in and looks fine, I mean HUGE GAPING HOLES that even if you putty over you would have o add all the detail and even sculpt it into the right shape.

>>16259772The bb senshi line got really fucking good towards the end, and the bb legends were excellant. Going from them to the ex-standard (which was the new sd line bandai was pushing) was like going from the HG Origin kits to the HG Tristan. These ex-standards don't even have the excuse of being based on old molds.

Here's the bb senshi Banshee norn with no stickers. And yes it does transform for the most part.

>>16259781Actually i fucked up, theres some clear marking stickers and a couple little stickers on the feet.

Here's the ex-standard. Please note the horrible looking gun and the lack of working gimmicks in favor of this horrible gimmick for the line where you take parts of the sd and form a super lame looking weapon for an hg to hold.

>>16260306>>16260311Just to let you guy know you're responding to the shitposter from /toy/. He shits up the scale model thread and tries to start drama between it and the gunpla/plamo threads there constantly but the gunpla/plamo thread tends to ignore most of his crap so he's resorting to trying to drag the /m/ gunpla thread into it.

That dude came here to shit it up and was b& within an hour? It took like 16 for him to get banned and cleaned up after shitting up two different /toy/ threads on models, prob more we didn't know about.

>>16261346I have the 1/100 Graze Custom. Has a nice amount of weapons and customization. Sword which I'll modify to use with my Tallgeese, Axe, Machine Gun, shoulder mounted bazooka. Although I've been regretting getting it lately.