2002 9-5 Aero

I purchased a 9-5 Saab October 23, 2015 with 145,800 miles. Very clean inside and out, 5-speed manual, SID works.

I was planning on replacing the DIC fairly soon because I had read those eventually need to be replaced. I took the car in for a smog on the Monday following the purchase and it failed smog because there were error codes logged in the CIL.

The smog tech gave me the engine codes which I searched online. Low-and-behold they were related to the DIC. On the drive home the car was suffering from very noticeable surging. So I replaced the DIC that day and while I was at it the spark plugs. I have not yet gone back to get smogged because I'm worried about the drive cycle (I cleared the engine codes but am worried if I go back I'll still fail). It's been about two weeks since I cleared codes so hopefully that's enough time for the cycle.

The car was running much better after replacing the DIC, however, it seems that if I drive the car for over an hour at freeway speeds the surging issue resurfaces (though not as bad as prior to the DIC replacement). I'm convinced it's either the crankshaft position sensor (because of intermittent cold-start problems) or the throttle body (because of age).

The prior owner did replace the throttle body with a second-hand rebuild at about 60K miles. But, he took the car in to the shop for the same problems I am experiencing at about 80K miles. So my assumption is he purchased a faulty rebuild.

The owner replaced the heater valve and fuel filter at 60K but I may just replace those as well. I think the front shocks/suspension system needs to be replaced. The previous owner did put rear Konig shocks around 60K but I don't know how long those last.

Furthermore, there is a "service alarm sensor" on the SID. I have ordered what I hope are the correct batteries (I may not have ordered the correct type of prongs). If I have the wrong batteries I'm just going to send the sensor to some person on eBay to rebuild for the $30.

Here is a list of items I am going to take care of with items I'm going to tackle first towards the top:

Replace CPS, throttle body, heater valve and fuel filter (hope to order the parts this week once my paycheck comes in). Rotate tires (front have way more wear than back)

Fix alarm sensor

Replace fuel pump (as preventative maintenance)

Replace front suspension (ball joints, struts, lower control arms)

Get new tires

at 150K do normal maintenance

Eventually either get the saabaux kit or put a new Google drive ready head unit (but going to take care of actual car needs first)

If you guys have any tips on where to by parts (I'm likely going with eeuroparts.com unless you have other suggestions) or what else to replace on the car, please let me know.

Wow, what a wish list. Congrats on your new saab. I'm assuming this is your first saab, and you are looking for some guidance. I would advise dealing with one issue at a time; you may overwhelm yourself.

Hope you put an OEM DIC in, with NGK 6ES or 7ES plugs. A new CPS, Bosch, wouldn't hurt. If your emission codes stay gone and you pass, work on the other issues. Throttle body issues should show a code. Make sure the basics are taken care of and it's drivable.

Research this site, it has much info. I'm sure Wulf will be along soon with the proper links.

Hope you put an OEM DIC in, with NGK 6ES or 7ES plugs. A new CPS, Bosch, wouldn't hurt. If your emission codes stay gone and you pass, work on the other issues. Throttle body issues should show a code. Make sure the basics are taken care of and it's drivable.

Thanks southsaab. Yes indeed this is my first Saab. I'm excited and thanks for the welcome.

I don't think I'll be too overwhelmed by the amount of work; I have a good amount of experience with working on cars. A lot of the fixes seem pretty simple (except for suspension work).

While the throttle body may throw codes once it's toast, from what I've been reading online, people have been experiencing the same surging I do, without codes, and their fix was a throttle body. Additionally, those people eventually experience codes. I'm hoping to get in front of the issue before it gets any worse.

I was going to go the junkyard and get a used one for around $55 total with tax but I found one on eBay for a total (w/shipping) of $75 and 6-months of insurance.

According to the seller he had it re-manufactured 2 years ago. I'm guessing a re-manufactured TB lasts about 80K miles (based on what is happening with my car), whereas a new one lasts anywhere from 100K-150K (based on what the internet says). New TB's cost about $420-$550. Assuming high mileage for the TB I just bought, I may have 2-3 years on the thing (if it works). If it works out, then I'll have saved a good amount of money, and if not, I have insurance and will just buy new.

I do plan on getting a Bosch CPS, and did put in an OEM DIC and the NGK 6ES plugs. I will definitely be asking for advice if I hit any snags.

Glad you're excited. Your vintage saab is in the sludge era, and I'd be surprised if it didn't have the upgraded crankcase vent system. Plenty of info about that.

I will warn you some saab replacement parts are not good quality, so be careful. Even OEM can be defective, but they usually have the best warranties.

Eeuroparts is s good source, as is saabsite, jim ellis saab parts, and even Advance auto parts. Amazon can be a good source for some things, for they broker for larger parts suppliers. Orio is the main parts supplier for all saab parts in the US.

You will find Saabs are usually easy to work on, except for the tight areas. And they are easily modified for performance.

Saabs have a reputation of being difficult to work on and that they are different in many ways from other cars. I actually find the 9-5 pretty easy to work on. Many common issues have been documented on the forums and the WIS has a wealth of information.

Congrats on your new car!!! I agree with Wulf, these cars are fairly easy to DIY, they're just different so people are afraid of them.
Add to your checklist of things to change soon= coolant bypass valve. Mine almost stranded me last week.
Also, check front sway bar endlinks, rear motor mount and subframe bushings if you get front end clunks. I'm in the middle of doing all of the above on my 04 wagon now.

Your vintage saab is in the sludge era, and I'd be surprised if it didn't have the upgraded crankcase vent system.

I did some research before deciding on the Saab as my car of choice and fortunately stumbled upon the sludge info. The previous owner did do the PCV upgrade. Thank you for the tips for part resources. I've only been looking at eEuroparts and glad to have more sources.

Originally Posted by Wulf

Many common issues have been documented on the forums and the WIS has a wealth of information.

Thanks Wulf. I plan on getting my hands on the WIS this weekend. Only issue is my computer is a bit of a junker. I hope I can successfully install. Again, thanks for the supplier list.

I will continue to document as I work on the car. I'm hoping to get another 60K miles out of it. This morning I did notice a crack in the lip of the front bumper. Bums me out. Hopefully it's not too costly to have repaired (I've never done body work).

Is there a list of tools that cover most of the bases? I would like to keep a tool bag in the trunk (because it is so roomy) that will get me out of tight spots.

Originally Posted by XLR99

Add to your checklist of things to change soon= coolant bypass valve.

Is that the same thing as the heater bypass valve? The previous owner did replace that around 70K miles but I plan on replacing that as well.

The previous owner did replace the passenger-side front mount, transmission mount, and rear motor mount in 2009. I'm guessing at about 90K miles. As to the front sway bars I was just going to purchase this kit from eEuroparts and call it a day. I do have to replace the front shocks - do you have a recommendation as to whether I should save up and also purchase a new coil assembly? Or will the kit linked above and the shocks be enough?

Thanks for everyone's input. As a sidenote: my second car was a 1991 CRX Si and I owned that thing from 1999-2010. Part of the fun of that car was the online community and support. I really appreciate the enthusiastic welcome and look forward to improving my already great ride.

Is there a list of tools that cover most of the bases? I would like to keep a tool bag in the trunk (because it is so roomy) that will get me out of tight spots.

For basic roadside repairs, just some metric wrenches/drivers/pliers, basic Harbor Freight sockets, and a set of Torx drivers will more than suffice.

Is that the same thing as the heater bypass valve? The previous owner did replace that around 70K miles but I plan on replacing that as well.

Yes, I discovered the hard way that they can fail after 50k. It was leaking good but never completely let go, so I was able to get home with 3 stops in 20 miles and ~1.5 gallons of distilled water.

The previous owner did replace the passenger-side front mount, transmission mount, and rear motor mount in 2009. I'm guessing at about 90K miles. As to the front sway bars I was just going to purchase this kit from eEuroparts and call it a day. I do have to replace the front shocks - do you have a recommendation as to whether I should save up and also purchase a new coil assembly? Or will the kit linked above and the shocks be enough?

Excellent- I'm currently doing subframe bushings, the rear motor mount, and a variety of other stuff while the subframe is on the floor. That rear mount is a royal PITA. The Eeuro kits are generally a good value. The one thing I'd consider with that one is the spindly sway bar end links; I'm putting Moog end links on mine now. (They're not too bad to change though, maybe just plan to upgrade when the Eeuro kit ones wear out.)
Compare the old one coming off with the new one:

Regarding shocks/springs - if the springs look OK just keep them; I think they're pretty high quality and don't sag like cheaper ones; maybe do a quick wire wheel/repaint to make them look new again. May not be a bad idea to do the strut mounts while they're apart. I'm not sure what the best shock setup is for the 9-5s. I have Bilsteins now, no complaints. Edit - if you don't have a spring compressor, it may be easier to just do the quick change option.

Thanks for everyone's input. As a sidenote: my second car was a 1991 CRX Si and I owned that thing from 1999-2010. Part of the fun of that car was the online community and support. I really appreciate the enthusiastic welcome and look forward to improving my already great ride.

Very cool, I always loved the CRX and Civic Si; they're kind of a cult of their own.