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Pertinace’s 1982 Barbaresco Marcarini is a revelation. From one of the all time
great Piedmont vintages, the Marcarini is exceptionally beautiful today, with
plenty of translucent Nebbiolo fruit, expressive Treiso aromatics and silky
tannins, all in a super-classic, mid-weight style that hits all the right
notes. Sadly, Pertinace’s current releases are nowhere near this level. At the
same time, the 1982 makes a very strong case for what is possible.

A look at the back label reveals plenty of
detail for Piedmont appassionati. In
the 1970s and 1980s, long before the current boom of wine tourism and high-end
restaurants, Guido was the place to
eat in Piedmont. In the early 1980s, proprietor Guido Alciati bought an old
home in Treiso, where he planned to relocate from his historic base in
Costigliole d’Asti. Alciati was famous for purchasing entire lots of Barolo and
Barbaresco for his restaurant, which is exactly what he did with the 20,000 bottles
of Barbaresco Marcarini the Pertinace cooperative produced in 1982. Sadly,
Alciati began having health issues shortly thereafter, and the restaurant never
moved to Treiso. This bottle captures a very specific period in Piedmont’s
history when things were a bit simpler than they are today. As for the 1982
Barbaresco Marcarini, it is an absolute joy to taste and drink. Over several
hours it just gets better and better until all that is left are memories that
will last forever. 94/Drinking
Window: 2016-2021.