I am making some small shelves from mahogany (approximately 2.25” x 1.75”, 3’ and 5’ long), and I am wondering if anyone can lend some advice on finishing. I am not necessarily skilled at woodworking or finishing, so I think that I’ll be able to produce a better result with a simpler process.

I also love the way the raw wood looks, so I really don’t want to end up with a high gloss lacquered look. I also don’t plan on filling the pores, as I would even prefer the slightly rougher look. I have thought about just putting teak oil on it or something like that, as it would likely end up with a matte or satin finish, and enhance/darken the color just slightly. I have read a lot online about how oiling mahogany won’t last long and needs to be re-done frequently, but most of those forum posts were talking about boat decking, or other outdoor applications, so I’m not sure if the same applies here? I may want to do something other than oil though, if it will enhance the contrast in the grain without too much extra effort.

All great info, thanks much. Do you have any particular brand preference for the shellac? I was looking at Zinsser so far, and it looks like they have a clear and amber version. If I use Zinsser, I’m leaning towards the amber one, as I wouldn’t mind a little more reddish or warmer color to the wood.

Zinsser is the only mass marketed brand of liquid shellac I’m aware of. Zinsser has 3 shellac products – Sealcoat which is unwaxed, and amber and orange which do not have the wax removed. Orange is not orange – it is a darker amber and “warmer”. As a final finish any will work. Do not topcoat the waxed shellac versions with anything else – the topcoat won’t adhere properly. Any polyurethane will work also.

Shellac sets quickly and can be a challenge for the novice. Poly provides long open time and is much easier to apply but takes much longer to dry. I prefer to use taklon bristled brushes with either because the ultrafine bristles make brush marks a non issue. Thinning either finish makes them easier to apply.

I agree with OSU55 about the sealcoat. I also love how nitrocellulose lacquer slowly yellows. I made some drawers recently for a computer hutch I turned into an armoire, and finished them with amber shellac to match the carcase. Got a few sags, as I was using a brush. Don’t remember what kind at the moment. To avoid issues with sags in the finish, I usually spray both, but didn’t do it this time. Just be sure to do it where it won’t make you sick.

I’ll have to try those Taklon brushes. I despise how my finishes turn out if they have brush marks and/or sags.

I have a large Cherry built-in in my livingroom, that was only treated with shellac. Next to it is a coffee table that I made that had Linseed oil, shellac, and wax. The difference is amazing. The coffee table glows, appears three-dimensional, it’s really a big difference.

Try it on a small test piece. This is how I proceed. It takes a bit of time, but the results are rewarding:- sand the wood to 220- wipe on a coat of linseed oil- let dry 24 hours- wipe on a coat of shellac, let it dry briefly, apply another coat… I usually do this about 4-5 times, or until the finish starts to feel tacky- let it dry 24 hours- very lightly sand the shellac finish- wipe on another coat of shellac, again about 4-5 “layers” - let it dry 24 hours- apply a coat of carnauba wax with 0000 steel wool- wipe off access wax- after the wax has cured a bit, or gotten “hazy”, polish the coat

I mix my own shellac. It’s really easy, there are charts online that tell you the right mixture, I use a “2 lb cut” mix. It’s cheaper, and you don’t have to worry about the shellac shelf life so much, as you can always just mix what you need.

I know my method is time consuming, and I must be crazy using this for all trim work in my apartment remodel, but I just love it… you may get away with just one-time shellacing, and maybe without the light sanding. Harder woods usually take on shellac much better than softwoods. Oak is especially shellac friendly.

I work with Brazilian mahogany frequently. My favorite finish is rubbing varnish. I mix it myself, for it is not available ready to use in my country. Depending on the amount of solids the varnish chosen has, I add from 30 to 50% thinner. I apply generously with a brush, wait a minute and take the excess away with a rag. Usually iI do 6-8 coats.

Shellac is a good choice.But if you want stone cold simple, try a product called Howards Butcher Block Conditioner. It is an oil and wax blend that leaves a clean matte finish. It is not enough protection for projects that will see water or heavy use, but for your project it would work fine. The Howards is available at Home Depot. Try some sample boards to see which finish you like best.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

Thanks everyone for all the input. DrTebi, I have decided to use your method. I bought some WatCo Danish Oil (the dark walnut color), and some Zinsser shellac. So far, I have applied some of the oil, so here’s a photo of the progress so far. I’ll post another photo once it’s done. Thanks again!

Andrew, I am glad to see that we have convinced you to use oil and shellac.

I have never used Zinsser shellac, but I have heard some good things about it.

Danish oil is not exactly what I use… danish oil is a mixture of oil and varnish. I have tried it once, and wasn’t too excited about it. It brought out the grain in the wood nicely, but it also raised the grain more than other oils I have used (which means you will definitely have to do some sanding after applying it… well at least I did have to). But I think what put me off the most was the smell—I much rather smell denaturated alcohol (from shellac) than danish oil :)

Anyway, I keep us posted, I would like to know how this combination worked and what it looked like.