I don't think the pads look too bad, but like Dave says sometimes when I'm in there I usually just replace them and throw them in the tool box as spares. I guess it depends on what your plans are for it.

If you are trying to get it going with as little investment as possible, just bleed the brakes and be done with it. Those pads will get you to work, big choice, and back home for a while I'd guess.

Thanks, Dave. I measured total thickness with a dial caliper a .150", which by your numbers says I've used a whoppin' .005"-.010" of pad? Kimmel you owe me $5

Nah, you're positive tolerance, not to mention it's not like they are super thick to start. What I notice with my brakes is that the pads don't wear uniformly because the stack up of misalignment of the hub, rotor, tabs and frame. It'll be thinner say at the leading part and thicker at the trailing part of the face, for example. You can extend the life rotating them front-to-back. So the thickness needs to measured at the thinnest part.

Quote:

And I couldn't tell if that was a limit screw or the bleeder screw, thanks.

Your travel (or engagement point, I forget what it's called) adjustment is the set screw in the lever on the pivot. The allen key will fit parallel in the groove on the back of the lever itself. You can see it in your 3rd photo, tucked down in there. Turning this set screw is similar to adjusting the rod length on your clutch or brake master.