Goa: Where to eat, drink, party, shop and crash in the Sunshine State

GQ’s handy guide to our collective happy place

Take in all the green as you land amongst the swaying palm trees, or stop for a refreshing pint of Kings as you drive across the border. See that white chapel round the corner? And then another? One more? Welcome to Goa – there’s nowhere quite like it. India’s smallest state is a hit with all kinds of travellers – from honeymooners and revellers to families and gourmands. “Goa is like a big bowl of soup – you find a spoonful of comforting flavours every time you dive into it,” says chef Christopher Fernandes of Cavala at Baga, a resort with legendary Friday night parties that draw in locals and tourists alike.

A whole new world has emerged in Goa since the hippies first discovered it in the ’60s – a riveting mix of culture, music, food, dance, spirituality and everything in between. Today, quaint, restored Portuguese houses built in the 1500s are as charming and covetable as a slice of their inhabitants’ susegad (chilled out) nature. Contrary to popular belief, Goa is also not seasonal any longer. True, the winter months are the best to hit the beaches and clubs but monsoons can be spellbinding too. Waterfalls and muddy treks, local festivals with bursts of colour, the first distillation of feni (the indigenous Goan liquor made from cashew or toddy palm) and the unquestionable calm the lush green fields evoke should make the case for a visit when the beach shacks might be shut but the charm of Goa is elevated.

“I was born and raised in Goa, and there is no other place I’d rather be in,” says Tania Fadte. The fashion stylist moved back to the land of sand and sea after a brief stint in Mumbai, and has now established her own clothing label Mogachea which means ‘beloved’ in Konkani – the local language of Goa.

We seek help from Fadte and Fernandes to craft a perfect guide to the pint-sized paradise.

Where to hang out in Goa

Goa is famous for its tropical coastline, and so, it’s only natural that everyone gravitates towards its gorgeous beaches. A mug of chilled beer as you lay on that sunbed with a scrumptious burger on the way seems like a great start, no? All you’ve got to do is pick a direction.

Head straight up North for a burst of energy. Arambol for the backpackers, Morjim to rave it up and Mandrem for a laidback swim. 20 minutes down the coast and you’re in the Anjuna-Vagator zone: clubs, pubs, chill drinking spots and great food with cliff-top views of the gleaming ocean. The Baga-Calangute-Candolim stretch has been taken over by our very own Indian tourists for most of the year. You go here for commercial fun but honestly, you’d rather just head to Mumbai then and party around Juhu Beach.

Make your way to the middle of the state for a local buzz. Panjim city is the popular urban hangout with great bars, authentic Goan food, live music by homegrown bands and a jerrycan of urrak (the first distillate of cashew feni) at your disposal.

And then there’ the serene South with plush hotels, unpopulated shores, tranquil blue seas and culinary art. This is where you go to get away from the spotlight without losing out on creature comforts. Begin at Benaulim and go all the way down to Palolem – the most popular beaches of the South. Be sure to explore these gems on the way: the white shores of Varca, the unruffled shacks at Cavelossim and the hidden cove at Cola.

Where to eat in Goa

Rava-fried tiger prawns, stuffed crab, cafreal chicken and Chorizo (Goan sausage – the state’s pride and joy) are a few things that you must pin to your culinary bucket list.

To scoop out where, let’s begin with the North. “Bhatti Village in Nerul is the best place for Goan food,” recommends Fadte. Ideal for seafood and meat, this quaint spot in a quiet Goan vaddo (neighbourhood) run by a local family, is a wholesome experience. Cavala in Baga where Fernandes works serves top-notch Goan home-style food with old forgotten dishes making appearances on the menu. They also have a fun BBQ brunch on Sundays, where you can up making friends with travellers from around the world. For cafreal chicken, head to Florentine in Saligao – a go-to since the early ’90s.

Head down South to The Farm House Bar & Bistro in Benaulim, and try the rava-fried mussels with some feni, or to Martin’s Corner in Betalbatim for their mouth-watering king crab. Need to turn it up a notch? The Fisherman’s Wharf in Cavelossim meets all expectations. With a river-front view, an action-packed bar and a superb herb-grilled lobster, it hits all the right spot. You’d want to make a reservation if you plan to visit on a weekend.

Had your fill of Goan delicacies? The ever-growing expat community makes sure there’s a lot more variety in cuisines, although most of these restaurants are located in the North.

Tamari at the Vivanta Panaji serves a delicious array of Japanese and Vietnamese fare, while The Black Sheep Bistro – one of Panjim’s old favourites – will help you abandon your sunbed in favour of its global cuisine created using Goan ingredients. Where does Fernandes go when he’s not busy in the kitchen? “Gunpowder in Assagao with its Kerala beef fry, appams, Andhra prawns and pork chops is like home-cooked goodness served in style,” he says. “And you have to try the duck pancakes with hoisin sauce at Wok & Roll in Candolim.” While here, also sip on a chilli margarita – it’s got just the right amount of spice to warm your cockles. Fadte also recommends A Reverie in Calangute, while Fernandes swears by Burger Factory in Morjim. “Get the bacon Bloody Mary to go with your burger,” he says. “I love the cafés dotted around the landscape as well. Bodega in Panjim serves the most insane Eggs Benedict and freshly baked bread while Bakers Street in Porvorim is taking over the city with its fresh doughnuts and toppings. The Rice Mill in Morjim is quite a hidden gem, serving excellent coffee and with a well-stocked bar as a bonus.”

Vegans get plentiful options too. Ruta’s Roadhouse in Anjuna has a fresh solid menu while Artjuna has the art to fuel your spirit alongside Mediterranean nosh and excellent coffee.

Where to drink in Goa

Willing to sample a local intoxicant? The Oak Barrel in Miramar, a fairly new Asian restaurant, has an entire cocktail menu dedicated to urrak and feni. Else, head to George’s, a bar from the 1950s near Panjim church, to really feel one with the land. Order crumb-fried mussels or beef chilly fry to go with your drink, and you won’t be disappointed. Get a taste of Goa’s first microbrewery Susegado at Habanero, Baga, while you’re at it. Sample their Dorado (IPA), Patrao (vanilla porter) and the Trigo (mango wheat beer), and choose a favourite you can hang out with all evening. Beer lovers can also enjoy a chilled glass at Terry’s Restaurant & Pub in Betim, supplemented with the calming sight of ferry boats and casino cruises floating down the Mandovi.

You can’t not enjoy a Goan sunset while here. Uddo Life in Siolim makes sure you catch a spectacular one with a drink (ideally, the feni-based Goan Gansta) in your hand. “For cocktails by the beach, Firefly in Benaulim is a great spot too,” says Fernandes. Rocket Burger in Anjuna has a great offbeat indie vibe with an outdoor community table allowing you to mingle as you guzzle.

“You must also go Joseph’s bar in Panjim, which is a grungy old-school pre-drinking spot,” recommends Fadte. Head to Taverna after – a popular pub amongst the local and expat community, the easy-going vibe helping you sink right in. But if single malts are more you, make your way down south to the Paul John distillery for a tour and tasting.

Where to party in Goa

“Goa has the best party scene in India, right from the blowouts on the beach to nightclubs to open-air pubs; there’s a little bit of everything to suit everyone,” says Fernandes. While Hilltop in Vagator is the ultimate party paradise, you’ve got to keep an eye out for the dates and details; it’s not a party you simply waltz into. You can also dance under the stars at Waters next door. With multiple levels, each one catering to a different audience, we’re sure you’ll find a tune that works for you, be it Techno, House, Lounge or Chill-hop. Go to Dali Bar (after dark, preferably) for the after-party. If you’re lucky, Cirrus will have something in store as well.

Need a commercial groove and a live band, perhaps? “You must go to Cohiba in Sinquerim which is a spacious place with a funky vibe and a lot of room to dance,’ suggests Fernandes. Sorro in Assagao is good for steak and live music too.

Where to shop in Goa

Relinquishing your hammock for a shopping spree sounds tough but Goa does particularly well with quirky, won’t-find-elsewhere buys. And Fadte knows all its little secrets. “Head to Sacha’s Shop in Panjim, which is a little fashion shop of resortwear and vintage collectibles,” she says. “There’s also TIA in Ashvem which stocks handwoven cottons, linens and silks that are great for the beach, the bar or the city. The Flame Store in Arpora stocks organic and sustainable fashion pieces.”

If it’s alcohol you are shopping for, Fernandes recommends a visit to the Mapusa market on Friday to stock up your holiday bar. “Local spice mixes, pickles, Goan sweets and delicacies can be found here too,” he says.

Where to crash in Goa

We understand if your hosteling days are behind you but if you’re travelling solo or with your band of boys, we suggest you have a look at all the cool ones popping all over Goa. Check out Hopping Frog, RoadHouse Hostels, That Crazy Hostel or The Hostel Crowd – a great way to meet people from around the world, drink together and not have to worry about riding your bike back to the hotel.

Looking for something a bit more luxurious? Alila Diwa in Majorda with its infinity pool in the midst of lush green paddy fields is all kinds of #vacaygoals. Located just 20 minutes from the airport, the service is spectacular and the food, delicious.

Fernandes swears by Dunhill beach cottages in Agonda: “Great prices, very comfortable rooms and a hop from your bed to the sea. Good food too.”

For some solitude, check out Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel. With a splendid cliff-top view, it exists in its own space and time on the northernmost tip of Goa. You can go fishing, cruise on a boat along the Tiracol river, or head off on treks behind the fort. Fadte suggests Champakali in Old Goa or Birdsong in Moira – both blissfully placed amidst flourishing green foliage. Else Cidade De Goa, in the heart of the city, makes for a great weekend getaway too.

Whether you are looking for a relaxed holiday or a party-hopping getaway, local delicacies or a taste of the world – Goa’s got you. Here’s to susegado days ahead.