Despite the fact that you can now get fairly authentic Mexican food at a few ethnic eateries in Broward and Palm Beach, there's still a warm, cholesterol-laden place in our hearts for quality Tex-Mex of the bean- and cheese-covered variety. West Palm Beach's Aleyda's is like the de facto standard by which other Tex-Mex eateries are judged. The huge, pastel-colored restaurant is a rambling stretch of old corridors and stucco -- it doesn't look a bit changed since its debut in the mid-'70s. As such, it feels like the ultimate "just north of the border" escape, especially when aided by a frosty pitcher of margaritas and a plate slathered in beans, cheese, rice, and a tortilla-based substrate that probably includes a combination of all three. Of all the dishes, the chimichanga -- that bastard child of Tex-Mex cuisine -- hits closest to home: infant-sized and impeccably deep-fried, a bursting bomb of starch and either shredded chicken or ground beef. Crusty, gooey, cheesy, meaty... this chimichanga has it all. Just bring an empty belly and a pack of antacids.