Looks like you are getting lots of info and help, I am in La Feria just down the road, got a cutting torch and some tools, let me know if I can help. Call me at 956 797 3282

Hi Don...

I tried calling, but no answer.If you want to just stop by anytime, I'm over in Donna at Victoria Palms, tell the guard that you are going to visit Steve at site 2372... I'll let them know you may be coming and to let you in.

I hope everything works out Ok for you, I'm very happy with the responce of our members! And you are in the hands of our most knolageable ones!

I myslef am on the Cape May Lews Ferry traveling from a visit with Bruce Knee, Back to New Jersey. The thought of breaking down always is more presant when you are

actually in your bus traveling!!

Keep us posted!

Nick Badame-

Nick, what do you think of that hanger that Bruce has his bus in? Awesome, I think.Richard

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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming: WOO HOO, what a ride

Footlose was here from Mission [many, Many, MANY thanks] and we worked on making room to get the belts on and off.As most of you know we have a bumper with a rubber guard attached [kinda like very large rubber trim]. Then we have a box beam cross-member that runs inside the bumper and is bolted to the frame at either end and is Not attached to the bumper.

This aluminum cross-member is resting against the main pulleys and a few water lines also. [not good] and has to be cut out. Spacers between the frame mounting brackets can then be fabricated and then inserted allowing the cross-member to sit further inside the bumper and away from the pullys, allowing the much needed space for the belts, pulleys, waterlines etc...

This cross-member is made of 1/4 inch aluminium plate and measures about two inches deep by 12 inches high and runs the full length of the engine compartment doors or about 53 inches long. The nuts that hold it to the frame brackets are accessible [kinda] but the head of the bolts are burried between this cross-member and the inside of the bumper. Any attempt to remove the nuts causes the bolts to turn and therefore cannot be undone. These bolts should be cut off with a torch, hopefully freeing the cross member. Not much room to work there, but someone skillful just might be able to get it done. Failing that, get in there with a small cutting wheel or saw of some kind and cut the cross-member up into pieces until we get to a point that it will be out of the way. [very tight place to work with a cutting wheel or saw, but maybe doable]

- apparently aluminium cannot be cut with a torch-

I question the need for this aluminum cross-member at all... apart from some slight additional stabilizing of the frame, I see no real use for it... If I was ever hit in the @$# end.... 1/4 inch aluminium would do nothing to protect the engine compartment. The mounting brackets for the box beam are attached to either side engine rails and may provide slight stability for the extended engine rails at that furthest point - maybe??? - but I hate to think that my 8V71 is that dependant on a piece of aluminium!!!

ANY THOUGHTS WOULD BE WELCOMED, NOW THAT WE HAVE ZEROED IN ON THE PROBLEM, EVEN THOUGH WERE NOT ABLE TO PHYSICALLY SOLVE IT TODAY.LOOKS LIKE IT IS CUTTING TORCH, WELDING AND HYDRALIC JACK TIME. I GUESS I'M DOWN AND OUT FOR AWHILE... MAY HAVE TO LEAVE THE BUS HERE AND FLY HOME... VERY SAD...

Steve

PS... there was a comment to check to see if the engine had moved on the rails... Absolutely Not.

Glad too see that someone close is able to help ya! I e-mailed Don directly and also posted a help needed msg. for ya over on BNO! Hopefully ya won't be down to long! It still puzzles me about that bumper being so close to the engine, just glad to know that the engine and cradle are where they belong! That had me worried a little although I never seen it happen, but I can see how it could over time if someone didn't get those u-bolts tight or they looosened up over time! Knuckle

Hey Steve, sorry we could not come up with easy solution. Again, I think the root of your main problem is the trailer hitch and the way it was installed. As you pointed out, the bottom edge of the aluminum plate was cut out to clear the hitch tube but it should have been cut at least 1/2 inch (or more) higher to clear the vertical plate that was welded on the front side of the 2" hitch drawbar. I am not sure that cutting the aluminum plate on each side will allow it to move enough vertically, and then to the rear enough to clear this steel plate that is retaining the bottom of same.

Another thought!!!It occurred to me after we left that you may be able to get a small angle grinder(with cutting blade) in beneath the belt pulley to cut out enough of the aluminum plate allowing it to clear the top of the hitch tube vertical. I can't really recall how much space you had there?Once that is out of the way, the plate can be sprung in enough to get the old belt out & new one over the pulley.

Glad too see that someone close is able to help ya! I e-mailed Don directly and also posted a help needed msg. for ya over on BNO! Hopefully ya won't be down to long! It still puzzles me about that bumper being so close to the engine, just glad to know that the engine and cradle are where they belong! That had me worried a little although I never seen it happen, but I can see how it could over time if someone didn't get those u-bolts tight or they looosened up over time! Knuckle

THANKS FOR YOUR CONTINUED SUPPORT BRYCE.

WE WERE NOT ABLE TO PHYSICALLY SOLVE IT.LOOKS LIKE IT IS CUTTING TORCH, WELDING AND HYDRALIC JACK TIME.BUMBER AND EVEN THE TRAILER HITCH MAY HAVE TO BE CUT OFFI GUESS I'M DOWN AND OUT FOR AWHILE... MAY HAVE TO LEAVE THE BUS HERE AND FLY HOME... VERY SAD...

Hey Steve, sorry we could not come up with easy solution. Again, I think the root of your main problem is the trailer hitch and the way it was installed. As you pointed out, the bottom edge of the aluminum plate was cut out to clear the hitch tube but it should have been cut at least 1/2 inch (or more) higher to clear the vertical plate that was welded on the front side of the 2" hitch drawbar. I am not sure that cutting the aluminum plate on each side will allow it to move enough vertically, and then to the rear enough to clear this steel plate that is retaining the bottom of same.

Another thought!!!It occurred to me after we left that you may be able to get a small angle grinder(with cutting blade) in beneath the belt pulley to cut out enough of the aluminum plate allowing it to clear the top of the hitch tube vertical. I can't really recall how much space you had there?Once that is out of the way, the plate can be sprung in enough to get the old belt out & new one over the pulley.

I totally agree... I can really see what needs doing when I crawled under the bus. There may be room for one of those Dremel tool things, the kind that hobbits use. May burn through a few cutting wheels - good thing it is only aluminum.A bottle jack or hydraulic spreader may work also, to bend up that section of the beam to clear the hitch plate. It should then just snap backwards if we can lift up that 1/4 inch needed.This is definitely not a one man job and cause I'm flying solo, it was great to have you come out and help. I think I may have to fly home for a few weeks and deal with it when I return. When you break down, and you are alone, is a very sad feeling

When I return, I will get together all the tools and stuff to do this.If you are still around and still want to help lick this thing with me, would be absolutely great.

But in any event, thanks again for all you tried to do, I guess this one has defeated me..

You should have let the phone ring, it gives you my cell nr in the machine answer. I have several angle grinders with lots of wheels, an acetylene torch, a Milwaukee sabre saw, you are welcome to any of them. I can be there tomorrow with it if you are still going to try some tricks before you leave, if not we can do it when you return..

You should have let the phone ring, it gives you my cell nr in the machine answer. I have several angle grinders with lots of wheels, an acetylene torch, a Milwaukee sabre saw, you are welcome to any of them. I can be there tomorrow with it if you are still going to try some tricks before you leave, if not we can do it when you return..

I'm always up for "one more try" not matter how down I may get... I'm heading to the local auto parts store first thing in the morning. Need to pick-up a small brass compression fitting for that broken air line, some liquid gasket maker so I can re-install my drive axels and I am on the hunt for some bottle jacks or hydraulic spreaders because if my idea to bend up that beam a 1/4 inch works, then we might be able to complete this without too much cutting work at all.So if you don't mind getting a little dirty, then I would love the help. Should be back around 10am, if all goes well. Let me know what time you could be here and I'll make sure that I'm back by then and advise the guard shack that you are coming out.

Nope... the way it is now Ross, you can't get a wrench in there AT ALL...

Just spoke to DON/TX and we are going to give it a shot tomorrow, will let you know how we made out.

Thanks for taking the time to offer any and all suggestions - This MAK Publishing Bulletin Board and all the advice and help I have received so far has been wonderful, to say the least, and very much appreciated...

May be too late to help, but, there is another way to get belts on the engine without cutting anything. May sound cornball, but by removing the air cleaner (to gain access to the street side U-bolts), alll six of the cradle u-bolts could be removed and the cradle would slip forward enough to get the belts in place. The driveshaft slip joint will allow that much movement. Have to watch the upper heater coolant hose, but kink the has and it'll give enough too. Cannot think of anything else that would have to be removed. Could be done in a couple hours. The air filter is not difficult to remove if you know how it comes out. The U-bolts could be loosened and left hanging...they are easy to get in and out. Exhaust and other connections have enough flex to move with the engine. Accessories are attached to the cradle and will move with it. If you have a reinforcing crossmembe beneath the bell housing, remove the bolts in the sides and leave the crossmember attached to the cradle. The engine could be levered forward and cabled back (Wal-Mart come-along?) using the hitch as a pulling point. Don't need but about 3/4"?The rear bumper obviously needs be repositioned so that belts could be changed whenever necessary. Be CERTAIN that the battery disconnect is OFF if you decide to do this. Good luck, JR

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JR Lynch , Charlotte, NC87 MC9, 6V92TA DDEC, HT748R ATEC

"Every government interference in the economy consists of giving an unearned benefit, extorted by force, to some men at the expense of others.”