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So I have a 03 bugeye and I want to drop a STI longblock into it. I really don't wish to get into a huge spending spree getting all the tranny back drivetrain goodies, so I was wondering if the 5spd tranny would bolt to the 2.5 block without too many outrageously priced issues? Aslo on another note is there anyone in the city of Fairbanks that is a professional accessport tuner?

It bolts directly on no issues at all. Just make sure you use the clutch and flywheel for the bugeye trans and you will be fine.

So I've been noticing that the colder it is outside and the longer my car sits outside the harder it is to start. She'll try to turn over a couple times and on about the 4th time will catch. Is this mostly due to the cold? And if so will a engine block heater help this problem. Thanks in advance for the help!

Block heaters are a good idea no matter what. They help keep the fluids warmer in the motor which leads to a lot less wear on the internals during a cold start.

If the starter is going bad or sticking a block heater probably won't help much. You battery may also be weak which can cause slow starts or even no starts if the voltage drops. In that case a new battery or a battery blanket may solve your issues.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tsircou

So I've been noticing that the colder it is outside and the longer my car sits outside the harder it is to start. She'll try to turn over a couple times and on about the 4th time will catch. Is this mostly due to the cold? And if so will a engine block heater help this problem. Thanks in advance for the help!

If you are putting an STI long block in your going to have some wiring and sensor items to deal with. For instance the STI heads monitor cam positions differently then the early WRX 2.0 motors because of the AVCS system.. There are ways to convert and deal with these problems but most people reuse the 2.0 heads on the STI short block.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Subiejunkieak85

So I have a 03 bugeye and I want to drop a STI longblock into it. I really don't wish to get into a huge spending spree getting all the tranny back drivetrain goodies, so I was wondering if the 5spd tranny would bolt to the 2.5 block without too many outrageously priced issues? Aslo on another note is there anyone in the city of Fairbanks that is a professional accessport tuner?

So I've been noticing that the colder it is outside and the longer my car sits outside the harder it is to start. She'll try to turn over a couple times and on about the 4th time will catch. Is this mostly due to the cold? And if so will a engine block heater help this problem. Thanks in advance for the help!

When reading live data on my AP, in 6th gear WOT from around ~2500 rpm i can generate a feedback knock correction of -2.4 or more. But in 4th gear starting from 3000 rpm, WOT, no knock is seen, also same applies to any gear starting at a mid range rpm. My question is what causes the knock seen in a high gear WOT starting from a low rpm? If it my matters, my DAM stays at 1. My mods are: tbe, 44mm EWG, ebcs, fuel pump and protuned.

Subaru tunes from the factory run a lot of timing in low load ranges and low rpm. Cobb and a lot of tuners don't mess with these ranges much and because you can make boost at such a low rpm in 6th I would expect thats the problem.

The issue you describe can be tuned out if you wanted to. I'm not sure it is really a harmful issue though based on what you have described. Personally from my stand point I would not be going WOT at such low rpm and in 6th gear. In the instance of an automatic transmission it would have downshifted long before, and you should to. You are putting extra stress on the motor and are well out side of the power curve.

If you do what you described enough the car will learn to automatically pull timing in that load and rpm range (self tune). As long as the amount of knock heard is low enough the IAM/DAM will stay at 1 and the fine knock correction you are seeing will simply do its job and pull a little timing out.

To fix the issue log rpm, calculated load, and FBKC. Remove some timing in the load and rpm ranges that are hearing knock. AFR should also be looked at and possibly adjusted if needed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrtimroxass

When reading live data on my AP, in 6th gear WOT from around ~2500 rpm i can generate a feedback knock correction of -2.4 or more. But in 4th gear starting from 3000 rpm, WOT, no knock is seen, also same applies to any gear starting at a mid range rpm. My question is what causes the knock seen in a high gear WOT starting from a low rpm? If it my matters, my DAM stays at 1. My mods are: tbe, 44mm EWG, ebcs, fuel pump and protuned.

Cobb has a decent tuning guide on their forum or site. Its a good starter guide. A lot of the tables have help guides attached. Besides that there are plenty of good forums and documents on the internet. Just make sure you do small changes at first and always have a backup tune. Make sure the car is mechanically sound before you tune it, in other words make sure it runs good before the tune. Don't try to fix mechanical type issues like boost leaks with a tune.

Cobb has a decent tuning guide on their forum or site. Its a good starter guide. A lot of the tables have help guides attached. Besides that there are plenty of good forums and documents on the internet. Just make sure you do small changes at first and always have a backup tune. Make sure the car is mechanically sound before you tune it, in other words make sure it runs good before the tune. Don't try to fix mechanical type issues like boost leaks with a tune.

Well you are absolutely fine in terms of not causing damage to valves or damage to the motor. Concerns should be heat and possible fire to the bottom of the car where the pipe will dump to. Then the noise of course. You might want to put a thread out to see if someone will lend you their stock cat back or something like that to get you by.

Quote:

Originally Posted by granny

I will have a down pipe and that's it. I have heard of people running just the down pipe but that was in the lower 48s

Well you are absolutely fine in terms of not causing damage to valves or damage to the motor. Concerns should be heat and possible fire to the bottom of the car where the pipe will dump to. Then the noise of course. You might want to put a thread out to see if someone will lend you their stock cat back or something like that to get you by.

Ok thanks. The problem is no one has an exhaust that fits a gen 2 legacy without being cut up. If it wont cause damage I might run it and do something to the down pipe to prevent a fire.

If you must just note the exit point of the pipe and make sure there is nothing hanging around it like rubber, wires, etc. Lots of guys do this for some reasons and they are usually ok but its going to be insane how loud it is lol...

We have some stock mid sections and mufflers from various Subarus. Some of the stock stuff you could have or cut up if you can make it work. Cutting and welding bends isn't that hard with some patience.

Also consider getting a quote from a muffler shop. You may be surprised how little they may charge you to bend a little pipe and slap a generic high flow muffler on there. I have in the past used midas for quick temp work on muscle car projects and was surprised what a good deal I got.

Good luck and be safe. If your driving in Anchorage with the open pipe don't expect to get far before the APD get ya!! Been here done that....

Quote:

Originally Posted by granny

Ok thanks. The problem is no one has an exhaust that fits a gen 2 legacy without being cut up. If it wont cause damage I might run it and do something to the down pipe to prevent a fire.

If you must just note the exit point of the pipe and make sure there is nothing hanging around it like rubber, wires, etc. Lots of guys do this for some reasons and they are usually ok but its going to be insane how loud it is lol...

We have some stock mid sections and mufflers from various Subarus. Some of the stock stuff you could have or cut up if you can make it work. Cutting and welding bends isn't that hard with some patience.

Also consider getting a quote from a muffler shop. You may be surprised how little they may charge you to bend a little pipe and slap a generic high flow muffler on there. I have in the past used midas for quick temp work on muscle car projects and was surprised what a good deal I got.

Good luck and be safe. If your driving in Anchorage with the open pipe don't expect to get far before the APD get ya!! Been here done that....

I'm gonna have an exhaust shop bend me up a 3" exhaust but right now I don't have a lot of money to spare.

I just picked up a GodSpeed top mount intercooler for my wrx. Would it be fine to install without getting a tune for a while? The car already has a cold air intake, a cobb downpipe, and a borla exhaust.

It should be just fine. The only issue you may hit is boost going out of range a little if the new TMIC has less pressure drop. Seems you are on a stock turbo as well so I would say 99% chance you will be fine. Just make sure you put all the hoses back on properly and there are no leaks when your done. A lot of times its not the mods that create the problem its the install job.

If you need it to be checked out after the install my shop can review your tune and logs for free if you bring it out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ppagnotta

I just picked up a GodSpeed top mount intercooler for my wrx. Would it be fine to install without getting a tune for a while? The car already has a cold air intake, a cobb downpipe, and a borla exhaust.

It should be just fine. The only issue you may hit is boost going out of range a little if the new TMIC has less pressure drop. Seems you are on a stock turbo as well so I would say 99% chance you will be fine. Just make sure you put all the hoses back on properly and there are no leaks when your done. A lot of times its not the mods that create the problem its the install job.

If you need it to be checked out after the install my shop can review your tune and logs for free if you bring it out.

As you know I am looking at getting the Greddy Emanage Ultimate piggyback system. I fallowed your advice and looked into standalones and I think the Ultimate is the way to go. Greddy has two different universal wiring harnesses for the Emanage Ultimate. They have a 1.25m cable harness and a 2.5m cable harness. What is the difference between the two and which one is best for me?
Thanks.

I want to get an intake/downpipe/tune this summer. Without getting an AP, if I installed the DP in my garage up here, would it be safe to drive all the way down there to have it tuned, on the factory map?

Also I've heard a few people from the states say they get a lot of boost creep when it gets 'cold'(which to them is probably like +40). So would I have issues when it's -40? *Catted DP and SPT catback.