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For all of Indonesia’s clout on the international dive circuit – with spots like Komodo, Lembeh and Raja Ampat on the tip of every diver’s tongue – is it any surprise that this archipelago of over 14,000 islands has one more far- flung destination to make us dream? The Spice Islands, including the Northern Malukus and Ambon, host underwater action as intoxicating as the scent of the nutmeg and cloves growing topside.

My flight from Miami stops in San Juan, Puerto Rico, where I board a puddle jumper for the half-hour hop to my final destination. As the small prop plane descends through wispy clouds, harbours with sweeping white beaches come into view. The islands below, all emerald green and undulating, look like disconnected body parts of some mythical sea monster.