Here's some progress shots of my electrical
wiring. It's not complete yet, but the EFIS
is connected and works, the flaps work
correctly with the up/down switch, and the
transponder, ADSB, and EMS are all wired.

I have the beacon wired, but no other lights
yet.

The main thing to think about is that
eventually the top glareshield will get
closed up and riveted and none of this be
accessible except while laying upside down
on the seats looking under and behind the
panel!

That is why the boxes are mounted
on the bottom of the L angles.

Thinking about future maintenance, I have
added nutplates to these nylon clamps so
that I only need to get a screwdriver on the
bolt-no need to try to get to a nut.

This is where it all starts. This is the
DISTRIBUTION BUSS. The 8 AWG wire comes from
the master relay so that when I turn on the
master switch, this buss is powered. Moving
over one stud is the AVNCS MSTR. The curved
white 10AWG wire goes to a relay (controlled
by the avncs mstr switch) and the other
10AWG wire comes out of the relay and powers
the AVNCS BUSS.

The AVNCS BUSS is circled in red and is a
fuse block. It powers the comm, transponder,
ADSB, AHARS, iPad, and a future USB port.

Moving over one more stud in the pic above
is a 10AWG wire to the MAIN BUSS. This buss
is another fuse block (circled in green) and
powers the nav, strobe, recog, and beacon
lights, flaps and the oil and fuel pressure
sensors.

So as soon as I turn on the master
switch, the distribution buss and the main
buss are powered.

The last stud on the distribution buss has
another 10AWG wire going to the essential or
ESS BUSS. This is the buss that powers the
stuff that's essential to keeping the engine
running-ECU, PUMP 1, PUMP 2, and the EFIS.

This EFIS is not really essential, but I
used a circuit breaker for it anyway.

Still tons of wiring left to do.

This is the flap switch. I turned the master
on and ran the flaps both ways and it is
wired correctly.

ECU cables. The loop with the yellow heat
shrink is not used. Instead of cutting it
off, I just rolled it and zip tied it.

Back of the HDX. The open DSUB on the back
of the HDX will connect to the radio head
which is just to the left (in the pic) of
the HDX.

Dynon sent me a 3 foot cable but I'm
going to return it and use a 1.5 foot
network cable. No use trying to curl up an
extra foot and a half of cable I don't need!

Wiring harness is taking shape, but there's
still a lot of wires to add.