10 bolt carrier torque spec please and a question

does anyone know what the torque spec is for the carrier caps on a front 10 bolt? My lovely haynes manual is either missing that page or they decided not to put that one in /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Also does it really matter if you put the carrier back in first before you put the shims back in, Or is it ok to use a lite dab of grease on the shims to make them stick
and then smack the carrier in *this is what I did does it matter the order you assemble it?*

<font color="green"> I have never been able to slide the shims in with the carrier already in place, it's just been too tight of a fit. If you got 'em in there without kinking them then it should be fine. Cap bolt torque is 60 ft-lbs.</font color>

<font color="green"> Out of curiosity, how hard were the shims to slide in between the carrier and the case? If they slid in real easy you might have misplaced one... Sorry, just had to make you a little paranoid. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif </font color>

here is were it is going to sound bad /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif What I called shims may have been spacers, The cast washers that go between the races and the tubes. I assume they are spacers,
other than that there was not anything else in there, before I pulled it part to change the inner seals I checked the side play and got about .006 I think "don't quote me on that " so tomarrow I'm going to torque the caps and check it again to make sure that it is still good. And I Thank you sir for making me paranoid again /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

<font color="green"> When the carrier is in there and the shims are installed, there should be no side to side movement at all, in fact, you should have to tap the whole assembly in with a rubber mallet or a dead blow.If it's that loose I think I would add some more shims and reset the backlash. </font color>

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