Gas Dryer will not heat

I have a Kenmore Gas dryer that I bought back in 1999. About 8 months ago I had the same issue. I replaced the igniter and that solved the problem. I assumed the igniter went bad again. So I bought and installed a new igniter. That didn't solve the issue. It still will not ignite the gas.

Anonymous

Re: Gas Dryer will not heat

I replaced the thermal fuse and it fixed the problem. I had to remove the blower housing cover on the front of the machine to get to the thermal fuse. There was was an incredable amount of lint in there that I cleaned out. I used one of those lint brushes on a regular basis to make sure the machine is clean. That brush doesn't do a very good job. My wife said that the clothes dry about 10-12 minutes faster.

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Related Questions:

Hello there:If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:IIgniterModern
gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas
valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When
it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas
can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the
igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace
the bracket too. The
igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a
cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's
mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires
attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.Gas valve coilsWatch
the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting
the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so,
there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of
modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when
energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are
defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because
it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to
replace both (all) of them at the same time. Thermal fuseOn
many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows
if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back
cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in
black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If
the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer
either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to
inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the
dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Thanks for using FixYa. The first thing that should be checked is the Thermal fuse which is mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover. If this fuse goes bad the dryer will not heat and you’ll have to replace it as it cannot be repaired. If this I fine then you’ll need to check the thermostat, igniter and coils. Also as its only 3 months old so it is recommended to use the warranty to avoid any further issues. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.

Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.

1. Gas valve coilsIgniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuseMost dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. IgniterIgniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is
probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas
valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or
three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not
letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer
overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or
stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the
dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a
meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not
broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a
hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found
defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended
to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually
white in color).

I just diagnosed the same problem with my estate model by wirlpool. It is most likely the thermal fuse located in the back (behind the panel) It is a $12.00 part. My neighbor fixed his father's unit with same issue 2 weeks ago.