Follow the local crowd to affordable eating

Rick Steves, For The Vancouver Sun09.27.2013

Customers dine at the "Notre Maison", restaurant in Lyon, central France. Lyon, a historic city at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone rivers about 450 kilometers south of Paris, is known as the French capital of charcuterie.

Oslo recently overtook Tokyo as the most expensive city in the world. That doesn't surprise me in the least. The last time I was in Oslo, a plain cup of coffee cost $4. Beer, while very good, was $8 a glass.

Whether you're in an outlandishly expensive country or just want to save money, there are plenty of strategies for stretching your food budget in Europe. Here are some tips:

Ethnic eateries: These places usually offer the cheapest hot meals in town. Almost every night I was in Oslo, I found myself walking down a street called Gronland into the immigrant district for food that was both spicy and affordable. Throughout wealthy northern Europe, immigrant communities labour at subsistence wages. Rather than eat bland and pricey local food, they (along with savvy residents and travellers) go cheap and spicy at simple diners, delis, and take-away stands serving Middle Eastern, Pakistani, and Asian food.

Cafeterias: "Self-service" is an international phrase. You'll find self-service restaurants in big cities everywhere, offering low-price, low-risk, lowstress, what-you-see-is-whatyou-get meals. A sure value for your euro is a departmentstore cafeteria. These places are designed for the shopper who has a sharp eye for a good value. At a salad bar, grab a plate and stack it like the locals do - high. Hungry sightseers also appreciate the handy, moderately priced cafeterias found in larger museums.

Institution-affiliated eateries: If your wallet is as empty as your stomach, find a cheap, humble cafeteria that's associated with (and subsidized by) a local institution - such as a university, city hall, church, hospital, charity, senior centre, fire station, union of gondoliers, retired fishermen's club, and so on. (These are sometimes called "mensas.") Profits take a back seat to providing good food at a good price - and many of these eateries welcome the public to pull up a chair. Options range from a semi-swanky city hall cafeteria in Oslo, to student canteens in university towns (such as Salzburg, Austria), to Poland's dreary-looking but cheap "milk bars."

Bakeries and sandwich shops: Bakeries are a good place to pick up basic sandwiches, tiny pizzas, or something equally cheap and fast, but with more of a regional flavour (such as savory pasties in England or a "croque monsieur" sandwich in France). Chains that sell good, healthful sandwiches, salads, and pastries are Britain's Pret a Manger, Norway's Deli de Luca, and Spain's Pans & Company. Local deli-like shops are popular in many parts of Europe; try a "traiteur" in France or a "rosticceria" in Italy. The businesslunch crowd invariably knows the best place for an affordable fill-the-tank bite.

McEurope: Fast-food restaurants are everywhere. Yes, the hamburgerization of the world is a shame, but face it - the busiest and biggest McDonald's in the world are in Paris, Rome, and Moscow. American fast food has gone global. You'll find KFC and Subway in every language - it isn't exciting (and costs more than at home), but at least you know exactly what you're getting, and it's fast. They're also kidfriendly and satisfy the need for a cheap salad bar and a tall orange juice. They've grabbed prime bits of real estate in every big European city, providing a cheap seat (with no cover charge) and an opportunity to savour a low-class paper cup of coffee while enjoying high-class people-watching. Many offer free Wi-Fi as well. Each country has its equivalent of the hamburger stand; I saw a "McCheaper" in Switzerland. You might say to yourself, "I didn't travel all the way to Venice to eat in a McDonald's," but consider fast food as comfort food - something fun halfway through your trip.

Street food: Every country has a cheap specialty that's sold at takeout stands or shops, where you can grab a filling bite on the go - French "creperies," Greek souvlaki stands, Danish "polse" (sausage) vendors, Italian "pizza rustica" takeout shops, Dutch herring carts, British fish-andchip shops, and Turkish-style kebab and falafel kiosks. Of all of these options, the ubiquitous kebab stand is my favourite. The best ones have a busy energy, and a single large kebab wrapped in wonderful pita bread can feed two hungry travellers for $5. Don't miss "ayran" - a healthy yogurt drink popular with Turks - which goes well with your kebab. In general, if there's a long line at a particular stand, you can bet that customers appreciate the value that vendor provides.

One final tip - don't let the price of a meal determine your agenda. If you're dreaming of going to Ireland, but the food is cheaper in Portugal, your best value is still Ireland - it's just essential that you eat smart and travel smart.

Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.

Comments

We encourage all readers to share their views on our articles and blog posts. We are committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion, so we ask you to avoid personal attacks, and please keep your comments relevant and respectful. If you encounter a comment that is abusive, click the "X" in the upper right corner of the comment box to report spam or abuse. We are using Facebook commenting. Visit our FAQ page for more information.

Almost Done!

Postmedia wants to improve your reading experience as well as share the best deals and promotions from our advertisers with you. The information below will be used to optimize the content and make ads across the network more relevant to you. You can always change the information you share with us by editing your profile.

By clicking "Create Account", I hearby grant permission to Postmedia to use my account information to create my account.

I also accept and agree to be bound by Postmedia's Terms and Conditions with respect to my use of the Site and I have read and understand Postmedia's Privacy Statement. I consent to the collection, use, maintenance, and disclosure of my information in accordance with the Postmedia's Privacy Policy.

Postmedia wants to improve your reading experience as well as share the best deals and promotions from our advertisers with you. The information below will be used to optimize the content and make ads across the network more relevant to you. You can always change the information you share with us by editing your profile.

By clicking "Create Account", I hearby grant permission to Postmedia to use my account information to create my account.

I also accept and agree to be bound by Postmedia's Terms and Conditions with respect to my use of the Site and I have read and understand Postmedia's Privacy Statement. I consent to the collection, use, maintenance, and disclosure of my information in accordance with the Postmedia's Privacy Policy.