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I've seen most kites with longer upper leading edge than lower leading edge, but I've seen some with shorter upper leading edge and longer lower leading. Anyone knows the advantage and disadvantage on these.

Many kites are designed with a 32.5" lower leading edge. This is the length that most spars come in, so if you break the LLE doing a tip stab for example, it's usually a pretty easy fix. The problem with a longer LLE is if you break down the LE for storage... Because it is longer, the wing tip ends up extending past the nose when folded, resulting in a longer kite in its stored position (if you break it down). For this reason, the kite may have a longer upper leading edge.

Then, there is the weight issue. Some kites are designed to have the ferrule located in relation to the rotational mass/ balance point for exactly the reason Tom mentioned. This will change the kite's behavior in most aspects of freestyle flying.

LE configuration is more of an issue with tapered sticks. Weight distribution is a bigger deal as one end of the stick is a lot lighter than the other and the joint, with a big ferrule, is heavy. Flex is the other big difference. The position of the joint can change almost whole frame. Sometimes having the joint closer to the lower spreader stiffens up everything. Sometimes that stiffness screws everything up.

Another factor with tapered sticks is that using the shorter stick as the LLE means you have a stiffer/stronger wing tip.

Another reason for the long/short LE lengths can also be to reduce breakages. If you have equal length LE sections then the ferrule - and therefore the weak spot - will be in the middle where stain is greatest when the LE is bent. As a result it can lead to breakages - my HQ Jive was very prone to this. If you use the long/short LE the weak spot is moved away from the point of greatest strain.

I now understand abit more about the purpose of the long/short LLE. I'm trying to figure out beside the bridle setting, what makes some kite do rotational tricks easier than other kites. I'm also trying to learn how the balance of kite will affect on some tricks.

I now understand abit more about the purpose of the long/short LLE. I'm trying to figure out beside the bridle setting, what makes some kite do rotational tricks easier than other kites. I'm also trying to learn how the balance of kite will affect on some tricks.

I've seen most kites with longer upper leading edge than lower leading edge, but I've seen some with shorter upper leading edge and longer lower leading. Anyone knows the advantage and disadvantage on these.

If your kite is smaller than 8 feet wingspan, a full length for the Lower Leading edge is probably better because this spar is most frequently broken as the upper leading edge. And for manufacturers, that's only one spar to cut for each leading edge. And time is money !

But for more stiffness, it's much better to cut the two spars egal length.

For example : 2 x 30" leading edge is better than upper 27.5" and lower 32.5".

Hadge: Better not place ferrule in the center because it is weakest point. better Longer spar on LLE because of easy repairTataouine: better to have both LE pieces equal length and have the ferule in center for more stiffness.Kareloh: full length spar for the ULE and a shorter spar for the LLE. The ferrule reinforces the lower APA position this way.

Hadge: Better not place ferrule in the center because it is weakest point. better Longer spar on LLE because of easy repairTataouine: better to have both LE pieces equal length and have the ferule in center for more stiffness.Kareloh: full length spar for the ULE and a shorter spar for the LLE. The ferrule reinforces the lower APA position this way.

Hadge: Better not place ferrule in the center because it is weakest point. better Longer spar on LLE because of easy repairTataouine: better to have both LE pieces equal length and have the ferule in center for more stiffness.Kareloh: full length spar for the ULE and a shorter spar for the LLE. The ferrule reinforces the lower APA position this way.

Who do we have to listen to!

N.

Looks like kite design is still more of an art than science.

There isn't really a right or wrong, just different options each with their own pros and cons.

It all depends on the size of the kite, the purpose of the kite, the balance etc etc. From a breakage point of veiw, a one piece might be best, it's very hard to break a one piece LE, but the downside is the transport length of the kite and that you're limited to using pultruded carbon as quality tubes, Skyshark/Dynamic come mostly in 32.5" lengths.

If you really want to get into it take a look at 'Swept wing stunt kites' by Mark Cotterell it's an intertesting but rather technical read.

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