Projects Brazil IN

Have you ever wondered where people find custom fit TV cabinets or tables that seem like they were made for a room? If so, read the following articles to help you complete a wood based project to match your wants and needs.

This page provides useful content and local businesses that can help with your search for Router Tables. You will find helpful, informative articles about Router Tables, including "Cast-Iron Top Router Table". You will also find local businesses that provide the products or services that you are looking for. Please scroll down to find the local resources in Brazil, IN that will answer all of your questions about Router Tables.

Using a 3/16-in. slot-cutting bit, rout grooves for splines in all the stiles and rails (Photo 2, Fig. A, Parts F1-F3 and S1-S4). All the grooves have the same offset, a 5/16-in. lip at the front and a 1/4-in. lip at the back (Fig. A, Detail 3). The front frame stiles (F1) and the front side frame stiles (S1) receive two slots.

There are a few specialized tools you must have to make cathedral doors. Start with a suitable router table. It should be equipped with a 2-hp or higher variable-speed router that accepts 1/2-in.-shank router bits. You’ll also need a bandsaw or jigsaw for cutting the curves and a set of door-making router bits.

Purpleheart, cocobolo, tulipwood, goncalo alves, ipe, olive, black palm and Brazilian cherry are imports I also like. Avoid softer woods, such as poplar, pine, cedar and basswood. They scratch easily and won’t stand up to the daily rigors of driving screws or any of those jobs you’re not supposed to do with screwdrivers.

Purpleheart, cocobolo, tulipwood, goncalo alves, ipe, olive, black palm and Brazilian cherry are imports I also like. Avoid softer woods, such as poplar, pine, cedar and basswood. They scratch easily and won’t stand up to the daily rigors of driving screws or any of those jobs you’re not supposed to do with screwdrivers.

This swing-out drill bit rack means no more peering into a dark cabinet or trying to reach over a forest of sharp bits to get the one way in back. Just swing out the block and all your drill accessories are right where you can easily and safely reach them.

Before you set aside your push sticks and dust mask for the season, make something to enjoy all summer. This project takes only about a day to build, once you've got all the materials. It's designed for outdoor use—made from rot-resistant woods and assembled with weatherproof glue and rust-resistant fasteners. Protected with a finish or not, it will enhance your garden or deck for years to come.

Our table lamp is reminiscent of the Prairie style of design, with lines that Frank Lloyd Wright might favor. In spite of its complex-looking shade, this elegant lamp is within reach of any intermediate woodworker.

If you’re like most people, you’d probably like more storage space for your books and collectibles. If you’ve also been looking for a place to put one of the new wide-screen televisions, then this cabinet has everything you desire. The cherry wood and Craftsman-styled details give it a warm traditional look.

The bow is laminated with thin strips of wood and fiberglass (Fig. A) . They're bent and glued together with epoxy using a plywood form. You don't need a zillion clamps to squeeze the forms together, however.

Carefully select 48 bd. ft. of 4/4 cherry for the two cabinets and 38 bd. ft. of 5/4 stock for the doors, base cabinet top and the crown molding. In addition, you’ll need 16 bd. ft. of 4/4 hard maple for the drawer sides and support system and 75 bd. ft. of 4/4 pine for the shelves and back boards. I spent about $1,000 on lumber.

Crosscut a 3x3x14-in. blank into four cubes. Solid wood is best, so it doesn't look like you put the little cube in the big cube by gluing parts together. Three-in. table-leg stock works well, but you can make the cubes from 2-1/2 in. or smaller stock if you want.

Storage is like money; we never seem to have enough. Well, I can’t help you much with your finances, but I can give you a hand on the storage front. A frequently overlooked storage area is outdoors. I’m not talking about another tool shed, but a beautiful chest designed to store the smaller outdoor amenities we use everyday, such as cushions for deck furniture, pool toys or even gardening supplies.

For the clock case, you'll need 1/4-in.-thick mahogany plywood. It doesn't take much, so buy a partial sheet unless you plan to make several clocks. You'llalso need a 3/4-in. x 6-in. x 48-in. piece of mahogany lumber and a chunk of wenge. Buy a piece of wenge that’s at least 3 in. wide by 32 in. long.

Mill all the door parts to final thickness (7/8 in. for this door). Make a few extra boards the same size as the rails. Use these for making the muntins and for testing the router bit and mortising machine setups. Crosscut all the pieces a few inches long.

Cut the center notches and the sides of the bases using a circular saw (Photo 2). The accuracy of these cuts isn't critical, so you don't need a guide. Cut the legs and inside corners of the notches using the jigsaw.

This bookcase is just six boards held together using one elegant joint: the tapered sliding dovetail. Dovetails join the shelves to the sides and the sides to the top. This joint has a well-deserved reputation for being fussy to cut and fit, but I’ve devised two jigs so easy to use that you can’t go wrong.

Flat wood is essential for successful dovetailing. Boards that are cupped across the grain will be nothing but trouble. Mill rough lumber to 7⁄8 in., taking an even amount off both sides. Sticker the boards so air circulates all around. After a few days, see if the boards are still flat.

You can make this box with many different dovetail jigs. You can use a Keller (no relation!) through-dovetail jig for the corners (see Sources, page 65). Other through-dovetail jigs will work, but you may have to change the width of the box’s sides for the spacing between the pins and tails to look good.

Here's a project that's guaranteed to add romance to your garden: an inviting gateway that promises beauty and tranquility to all who pass through. Building this arbor is a big undertaking, because of its complex design and grand scale, but it isn't a difficult project.

Stylish and comfortable, these chairs are also built to last. Made of rot-resistant white oak, with robust joinery secured with weatherproof glue, they’re guaranteed to become some of your garden’s most cherished perennials.

The top’s breadboard ends with ebony splines was a favorite Greene & Greene design element. Breadboard ends are short boards fastened to each end of the top. The breadboards keep the top flat and conceal unsightly end grain. The Greenes’ unique design allows the solid wood top to expand and contract, even though the breadboard ends are fastened cross-grain.

My front hallway is the most heavily traveled, and usually the most cluttered, space in my home. Keys are tossed here and there, notes are scattered and the mail keeps getting lost. Tired of misplacing small but important items, I found a decorative way to keep everything together and organized.

Reshape one flat hammer face into a shallow dome (Fig. A, Planishing Hammer) using a disc or belt sander. The shape of the dome determines the size of the mark. I found a 5 frasl;16-in.-dia. mark the most attractive. Some areas that need texture are too small for the planishing hammer, so I domed the tip of a length of steel rod.

The box shown at left is made from 3/8-in.-thick wood, so I used a bandsaw for resawing and a planer to take the wood to final thickness. For more information about resawing, check out “Bandsaw Resawing”.

There are a few specialized tools you must have to make cathedral doors. Start with a suitable router table. It should be equipped with a 2-hp or higher variable-speed router that accepts 1/2-in.-shank router bits. You’ll also need a bandsaw or jigsaw for cutting the curves and a set of door-making router bits.

Curved doors and panels add elegance to any project, especially kitchen cabinets. Making these complicated parts requires careful planning and building. The task can be made much easier by using a flexible panel product called Kerfkore (see photo, below left).

I went all-out on my stand, adding my favorite bells and whistles. The cost is about $500 without the saw or vacuum. That’s a lot of dough, but you can slash the cost to $210 by eliminating the commercial fence parts, using less expensive plywood with no edge-banding, dropping the drawers, doors and dust hood and doing without the tool-actuated switch.

Without question, a router table is one of the most versatile tools you can add to any shop. Whether you’re making doors or moldings, router tables are do-it-all tools. This shop-made unit is a fully featured router table with portability, versatility and compactness.

If you’re wondering how I made the lacewood panels, well, I didn’t! I ordered them custom-made (see Sources, below). Buying custom panels is expensive, but much simpler than veneering your own. To order custom panels, list the panel sizes you need and whether they are one-sided or two-sided; then call for a quote, including shipping costs.

A standard kitchen has a 36-in.-high countertop with 16 in. clearance between it and 30-in.-tall upper cabinets. Because we raised the worktop height to 39 in. to be more comfortable for woodworking, we shortened the upper cabinets to 24 in. to keep their top shelves within reach.

Prepare your stock, including extra pieces for test-cutting. Cut blanks for the ends (A1, B1 and C1, Fig. A, page 67) and sides (A2, B2 and C2) to length, but leave them 1/8 in. oversize in width. All the ends must be squarely cut.

The Leigh D4-24 jig is well suited for this project. Adjustable fingers allow you to customize the size and spacing of your dovetails for a hand-cut look. It has capacity for boards up to 24 in. wide and more than 3/4 in. thick, which is necessary for a large project like this. Plus, it will cut both through dovetails for the case and half-blind dovetails for the drawers.

A pommel is any area left square on a turning. You'll find pommels on table legs, balusters, porch columns and other furniture parts. A pommel can have an abrupt square shoulder or a gently shaped shoulder as it meets the rounded section of the turning. Using the wrong tools and technique can easily reduce each of these corners to splinters.

This page provides useful content and local businesses that can help with your search for Router Tables. You will find helpful, informative articles about Router Tables, including "Cast-Iron Top Router Table". You will also find local businesses that provide the products or services that you are looking for. Please scroll down to find the local resources in Brazil, IN that will answer all of your questions about Router Tables.

We’ve devised jigs to handle difficult steps like fitting the dovetail joints and shaping the boldly curved legs. We’ll show you how to turn the tapered column step-by -step. We’ll also show you how to glue up a great looking top.

Router lifts are hot items these days and for good reason. Veteran router table users love their ability to make super-fine micro adjustments or rapidly raise the bit right from the tabletop. No more fumbling under the table like a contortionist.

Glass doors make a bookcase, but doors that swing on hinges are a pain to install. Ditto for doors that lift open and slide back—on a Barrister’s bookcase, for example. Regular sliding doors are much easier to install. In addition, they’re ideal for a bookcase designed to fit in a space where swinging doors might get in the way.

You can build this bench in a weekend or two. And once you’re set up to build one, multiples are no sweat. So don’t worry if you can’t decide whether this bench would look best in your front hall or at the foot of your bed—build two! If you build your bench from white oak, as I did, you’ll even be able to use it outdoors. I spent about $100 on lumber and another $25 for a dovetail router bit.

Accurate dovetailing requires flat, straight stock. You may be able to buy planed wood that’s flat and straight already, but often it’s cupped or bowed. To be sure your wood is flat, we recommend preparing your own stock with a jointer and planer.

Inspired by the pantry cabinet in the kitchen of our new house, I built this compact version for my workshop. It has the same deep double-hinged doors that make everything inside easy to reach. I used 3/4-in.-thick stock so I could use screws to hang tools inside. The thick back made it easy to fasten the cabinet to the wall.

For most 4/4 stock, it’s OK to start with the vents open an inch or two (Photo 8). This helps remove the moist air quickly. At the same time, however, you’re also letting out heat, so there is a trade-off.

Don't you love hearing great sound with your movies at home? A pair of these oak stands puts today's small speakers at the ideal height—3 ft. above the floor. We've built cabinets under the speakers that hold a total of 60 DVDs behind secret doors. And we've tucked the speaker wires out of sight—they run inside the stands.

This music stand requires only five board feet of lumber, but we recommend buying at least four times as much, so you can practice and refine your bending techniques. Read on to learn more information.

For convenience, the part letters in the arm chair cutting list and drawings are simply doubled: Part A for the dining chair is Part AA for the arm chair, and so forth. Of course, the part dimensions and rail angles for the arm chair are different, because it's bigger.

Building nine drawers is a big part of making this chest. I’ve used a sliding dovetail joint popular in Stickley’s time. The drawers run on center-mounted wooden guides, a recent innovation 100 years ago when the original chest was built. Center guides help wide drawers track well, even when they’re pushed or pulled with only one hand. I’ve added web frames to strengthen the chest. They also make the guides easier to install.

Sand and finish all the parts. We used water-based stain, paint and finish (see Sources, below). Water-based finishes tend to raise the grain after they are applied, which makes a rough finish. To prevent this, raise the grain first with a moist sponge. After the wood dries, do your final sanding.

Two precisely angled cuts are key to building the lamp shade. You'll go back and forth between these cuts a number of times. To ensure accuracy, make a setup block with both angles to use every time you reset the miter gauge or the tilt of the blade.

Richard’s molding also simplifies assembly. Mitering and gluing odd-shaped picture frame molding can be a struggle. With this technique, the frame is mitered and glued when the stock still has its square profile. That makes building a picture frame much easier.

With the resurgence of the mid-century Modern style in furniture, I thought I’d have some fun with this classic little coffee table. I used teak because it was the wood of choice for the Danish Modern style in the 1960s and 1970s. The same can be said for the round tapered legs and the soft, rounded edges and corners on the top.

Before you set aside your push sticks and dust mask for the season, make something to enjoy all summer. Each one of these projects takes only about a day to build, once you've got all the materials. They're designed for outdoor use—made from rot-resistant woods and assembled with weatherproof glue and rust-resistant fasteners.

If you love lounging on your deck and need a solid side table to hold your cool drink and snacks, here’s the solution. We designed this stylish side table to be simple to build. It’s made of white oak and finished with an outdoor stain, so it’s sure to handle the weather. The ceramic-tile top provides a durable maintenance-free accent.

Fortunately,you don’t have to be a period furniture maker to incorporate tombstone doors into your work. The design looks right at home with modernfurniture, or it can work with paneling or kitchen cabinets. In fact,you can use tombstone doors wherever you want to dress up an otherwiseplain cabinet.

The materials are nothing special, just 2x4s, 2x6s and two sheets of ordinary underlayment plywood (the kind with 1/8-in.-thick face veneer). Be picky when choosing your solid lumber. Look for boards that are straight, free of large knots and have full-width edges. Reserve your straightest boards for the top frame.

Big planks of wood with natural bark edges make my heart race. Most woodworkers share a desire to build something from a single, thick plank of wood. After 20 years of building custom cabinets and furniture, I finally got my chance.

Almost every common wood has been used for bats at one time or another. However, a few species dominate the history of the sport. Traditionally northern ash has been the wood of choice, but currently—at least in the pros—it is a neck-and-neck race with hard maple.

Why hollow end grain when you can make a box from face grain? The answer is simple: an end-grain box is more stable. That means your lid will fit well all year long. Face-grain turnings change shape more dramatically with changes in humidity causing the lid to fit perfectly one day and fit too tight the next. If you want a loose fitting lid and a different grain look, then a face-grain box is acceptable.

Making a functional object directly from raw material in its natural state is incredibly satisfying. Just ask any potter. For woodworkers, green woodturning captures that feeling. You literally start with a log and end up with a beautiful bowl. If you’ve never turned green wood before, you’re in for a treat.

This table requires only 25 bd. ft. of 4/4 stock and 9 lineal ft. of rough-cut 2-in.-square stock. If you don’t have a jointer and planer, buy turning squares and rip them down to make the legs (see Sources, page 59). The following article has more tips.

Frame the front and back faces of the trellis (Photo 6). Align the beveled ends of the slats with the edges of the legs and drill pilot holes. Then drill out the holes in the slats so the screws slip through. Apply glue and assemble.

There's something that pleases a woodworker's soul when you make a whole project from just one board. It's really satisfying to study a big plank with all its problems, such as knots, sapwood and runout grain, and figure out how you're going to cut it into smaller pieces (Photo 1). Thick, large boards are a luxury, though.

All you'll need is a small face plate, a medium-sized bowl gouge (3⁄8-in. to 1⁄2-in.), a round-nose scraper, some masking tape and alarge, thick chunk of wood for the chuck. A plate blank that's 9- to10-in. wide works best. It can be glued-up or cut from a wide board,just as long as one side is flat and smooth.

Using a 3/16-in. slot-cutting bit, rout grooves for splines in all the stiles and rails (Photo 2, Fig. A, Parts F1-F3 and S1-S4). All the grooves have the same offset, a 5/16-in. lip at the front and a 1/4-in. lip at the back (Fig. A, Detail 3). The front frame stiles (F1) and the front side frame stiles (S1) receive two slots.