Thanks for this. Torque values and oil quantities are per 3rd gen; the new, removable insert in the engine underpanel is an improvement. They still hammer away at what's a very simple act: unscrewing and screwing back on the oil filter housing, lol.

Wow - Screws instead of clips on the No. 4 panel (or is it lost in translation?) Anyone like to verify? Thanks in advance...

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There are hardly ever mistakes in OEM Toyota repair manuals, especially in something like this. Screws have been standard for Toyota engine undercovers for decades. Clips easily break, fall and get lost, and could be trickier to remove/install.

I used to do a very similar job on a 2009 Corolla, the only difference being no undercover to remove.

The most important thing is to have the right oil-filter cap wrench. It's very hard to find a good one and Toyota doesn't actually sell one. I was lucky that I had found a good one years ago. It's the same cap wrench that fits on the most common Toyota spin-on filters, such as for most pre-2008 Corollas.

The hard part of the job is to reach the filter cap without raising the car. It was a long stretch for the 2009 Corolla. You also need to remember to lubricate the O-ring. I never use a filter wrench to tighten spin-on filters -- always tighten by hand only -- and for cartridge filters, I use less than the recommended torque, which is too high. Also, I use a lot less than the recommended torque on the drain plug.

I don't think oil filters ever self-loosen. And I am talking even when hand-tightened. On the contrary, they seem to get tighter, probably because the rubber sticks.

With the newest OEM drain-plug gaskets -- part no. 90430-12031 standard across Toyota cars -- I've never had any loosening issue. I simply stop when the gasket stops compressing and it becomes too difficult to apply extra torque. Several years back their OEM gaskets were made from very hard rubber and would loosen by themselves. However, even in that case the plug never completely fell off and I didn't have a leakage issue -- despite I could remove the plug by hand after it self-loosened. Newer OEM gaskets have aluminum interior and soft-gasket-material exterior -- no more loosening issues.

Torque specs in this case are probably meant to be more foolproof than ideal to say the least.

With a spin-on filter, I would never use a tool to tighten it. Hand-tightening spin-on oil filters (use a shop towel to grab it) gives the best results and greatly helps in removal. Use the Toyota torque spec on a spin-on oil filter and you could spend the whole day to remove it.

So I go to find an oil filter wrench model SSt: 09228=06501, for the 2016 4 touring, right! There are so many different types of this model... From deep well type, to shallow. 64mm, 64.5mm. Which one is it please? Thanks.

So I go to find an oil filter wrench model SSt: 09228=06501, for the 2016 4 touring, right! There are so many different types of this model... From deep well type, to shallow. 64mm, 64.5mm. Which one is it please? Thanks.

There's also a plethora of sockets that extend down further, with notches to match the stiffeners. They're likely more secure/stable. OTOH fit gets trickier, if the stiffeners are shifted.

What I'm using is a Honda oil filter socket, that happens to be the same size, go figure. I purchased it initially for a Honda motorcycle oil filter, when Honda's automotive filters were a larger diameter. Then they adopted the smaller motorcycle format for their cars, so I continue to use it.

I just measure it's inside face-to-face with a caliper: 64.38 mm. It fits pretty much perfect, a little snug when the filter is hot, slightly looser if it's cooled down. 14 face, obviously.

Ok so,how do I reset the maintenance reminder light after I change my own oil?

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For the Gen III - To reset, the display must be in Trip A, then shut the car off. Now restart the car while holding down BOTH the Power button and the kph/mph buttons. The display will show the "update" screen - just wait for it to finish.

1) I used my Blitz low profile ramps, and found that they were just barely adequate. I.e. the front spoiler did kiss them just a bit.
2) The car is lower. With these ramps (under which I've previously serviced my 2001 Mazda Protege and 2010 Prius) - I barely had enough room to move around.
3) The oil change door is now intentionally removable (no "hinge") - and is secured by 3 real screws. Not those plastic pop-rivets. - but the larger under-cover is secured by the plastic pop-rivets, not screws.
4) I couldn't remove from the oil pan the washer that was there. (I tried to pry it with a screwdriver, and it didn't budge). Maybe it's meant to be permanent?

Otherwise, it was a standard, uneventful oil change.

Does anybody have access to the official trans-axle change directions from TIS?

For next time: back out the drain bolt a few turns, then place a screw driver blade at the junction of washer and oil pan, and give it a tap with a hammer.

I think Toyota "got the memo" regarding the flakey 3rd gen oil access "flap". One upside with the old style: it motivated me to remove the entire cover with each oil change. It's actually goes pretty fast, and don't believe I've broken one fastener so far (memory flakey), having done 10~11 oil changes. One steadfast rule: always wash out the fasteners in hot/soapy water, to float out grit which could jam them, leading to breakage.

One thing: with the cover completely off, you get a good view of the drive shafts, and any potential leaks. Worth doing say every 3rd~4th time.

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