I was at the MN Deer Expo this last spring and sat down and heard a guy talk about what you can do to make your property better and more inviting. This is what he does:

He basically micro-manages his property. Say you have 80 acres, and you have a few food plots, some cover, etc...Well, he takes that 80, and will divide it by say 5 or 6 and make 5 or 6 mini-properties. Each one of these mini-properties will have cover, food plots, etc. He said he went from having one or two doe groups on the property, to having 7 or something like that...it was quite a bit more. I can't remember how big his property was again, but I think that's a great idea as long as you keep the buck to doe ratio in order, and you have enough food for them. The reason this happens, is because a doe will move in and create her home range in one of these micro-properties, since she has all she needs...Each micro property will have a doe group. When as before, there was competition, for food/water/cover, etc, so it meant less doe groups. Hear what I'm saying? He had a website too, but can't think of it off-hand right now. If I find it I'll attach it here.

Yeah, if you find that site please post it. We have 100 acres in southern wisconsin, and it is overrun by canary grass and dog wood, very few wooded areas. But i know the does like some of the thicker cover, i would like to thin it out a bit, and this mini-property idea sounds like a great one.

It is an interesting concept and one, upon looking at it, that we tend to practice on our place. On our place we had a state forestor do a timber survey and he then split our property into 15 different zones based upon what was growing where. We look at each one of these areas as their own particular micro-management area and try to manage them accordingly.

But, I don't think any 10-15 acre lot is big enough to support an entire doe group, or even one doe for that matter. Just not enough food or cover there.

So go ahead and try out the idea, just don't be disappointed if you still only have a single group of does making your property home. The fun is in the work.

“There are two spiritual dangers in not owning a farm. One is the danger of supposing that breakfast comes from the grocery, and the other that heat comes from the furnace.” Aldo Leopold

There is a really good article in the December issue of D&D hunter by Charles A about the Percentage Principle. It was really good and help me get some really good ideas for my buddies property that is 80 acres. Check it out.

I recently read a book by Don Higgins titled "Hunting Trophy Whietails in the Real World". This book is an excellant read. It has many ideas from planting native grasses,fruit and nut tree's to stand set ups. I've read many book's and this is one of my favorite's. You can reach him at don@higginsoutdoors.com. You need cover, water and some type of food that your neighbor's don't have. Fruit tree's like Persimmon, Apple, Pear. Don advise's planting them in a cluster in the middle of your property. His Persimmon tree's bear fruit and are about 12 feet tall in five years. I think his farm was a cattle farm, but look at some of the Bucks on the cover of his book.

It's a great idea and how I've been managing our place for years...in fact I started it out with just 49 acres for many years...I know every one wants a buck to doe ratio...which is.... TO ME....something I won't even look at...especially on small acreage and with crazy hunting pressure on ALL sides....in fact I rarely see a buck on our place during the summer(pics of bucks are from neighboring property)...I concentrate on making the doe happy ...when fall arrives...then the buck flow through...by bow season I'm seeing buck all over and in the most part ones I had know clue where ever out there...as far as worrying whether there are too many doe on us...Well let me say there are doe out their that could give Mike Tyson a run for his money...They do a great job of protecting their borders believe me

I think it depends on where you are. I own 106 acres in Northern VT that I purchased about 6 years ago. I've planted food plots, improved the habitat with some small clear-cuts and some selective cutting, and I have a nice apple orchard with about 30 trees with many other apple trees scattered throughout the property. About 50 acres is mixed softwood and the rest is mixed hardwood and softwood. We have antler restrictions here (2 pts. on 1 side) and I don't shoot any 1 1/2 year old deer...I let them all walk to only see them killed by neighbors. There are plenty of does around and I get some trailcam pics of a few older bucks during the rut, but I haven't killed an "older buck" in 4 years now.

I'm convinced that in my area with the hunting pressure that surrounds me, managing a deer herd on a small property is nearly impossible. If there is any type of hunting pressure around you and if that hunting pressure will kill any legal buck that walks by, you will not be a successful "herd manager" on a small property in my opinion.

One thing I've learned is you can't know everything. I have less than 70 acres and have only shot 2 Bucks in 15 years. I just got lucky. Right place at the right time. I am going to have huge "Sanctuary" from now on, right in the middle of my property (about 65 acres). I had apple trees but they were in the middle of the property so I'm going to cut them down so the Deer will move to the Food Plots that I will have set up on the perimeter, fence lines or as far away from the center as possible. I do not want the Deer to stop and waste daylight when they should be moving to me. If you have a "Sanctuary" the Deer will stay on your farm more during the day, and if they leave at night...so what,they'll be back in the morning knowing it's a safe haven. Having a few apple trees here and there will not help you set up on them either, they need to be in clusters right by your Food Plots. I'm going to plant a variety of fruit trees,apple, pear, and persimmon. But they need to be protected from wildlife. I also believe they need to be planted in a month with an "R" in it. Jan., Feb., Mar., Apr., Sept., Oct., Nov., Dec., But I'm not positive where I heard this. In the past I've protected my trees with wire mesh. What a job, I planted 40 trees and it took some time. This year I plan on using "Tube Shelters" that I'm going to get from www.higginsoutdoors.com. (217)752-6829. Don highly recommends his Persimmon trees. I've heard from quite a few people say the Deer really love 'em. The "Tube Shelters" will act like a mini greenhouse to promote growth and protect the trees from rodents, Deer and help the trees grow straight. The persimmons in his brochure are 5 years old, 12 feet tall and producing fruit. The best thing that you can do is create a "Sanctuary" and do not disturb it. Plant Red Cedar around your fence line and be very careful how you enter your stands. In the morning the Deer might be in the Food Plots, so see if you can get permission to walk on the neighbors property to gain access to your stands. Don has a book that is very informative. "Hunting Trophy White-Tails in the Real World". I've read it twice. Plant Native Grasses also for bedding. It will not take long for the Deer to realize that your property is a "Safe Zone" and stay they all day. Don't worry about the neighbors. If you do, you'd better go rob the bank in town before someone else does. Also, you may need to concentrate on the evening hunt, play the wind, and set up cameras to take inventory of the Bucks you have. Next year, I can guarantee that if you follow this advice, you see more deer and bigger Bucks. Let the little ones go so they can grow. Concentrate on the age of the Deer and become a more well rounded hunter. I think Dr. James Krol has a book out on how to age and score a Buck on his feet.For their age you look at how they are walking (stiff legged), pot belly, sway back, loose skin around the neck. To judge the rack look at the circumferance of the eye and compare it to the base of his antler, does the mass come out to the tip of his antler, does the tip of his antler come out to his nose, number of tines, length of tines compred to the ears. You only need to look at one antler and then double the number you come up with. Be smart and if you shoot a Buck get it mounted and never shoot a Buck smaller than what you have on your wall. Keep pressure to a minimum, only you and "MAYBE" your best friend should be on your land. By far the best Deer and Management book I've ever read was "Hunting Trophy White-Tails in the Real World" and I've read a lot of books.