THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Co. Restaurant Review

: Sullivan Street Bakery is possibly the most fawned-over bakery in New York City. So when Sullivan Street baker Jim Lahey announced he was opening a pizzeria (funded, in part, by Jean-Georges Vongerichten), the city’s starch-erati began lining up. And line up they do: expect a perpetual queue outside this Chelsea eatery (which is pronounced “company” by the way). One of the reasons for the popularity is that Lahey has tried and succeeded in reinventing the pizza. In fact, Lahey is best when he’s eschewing clichés. Steer clear of the ho-hum margherita, for example, and veer toward the flambé, a super-crispy crust topped with béchamel, buffalo mozzarella, Parmesan and caramelized onions. Or the saltimbocca, piled with prosciutto, capers, mozzarella, sage and basil.