Off the shelf: Smoked salmon

Hilary McNevin

Luscious: Harris smokehouse smoked salmon.

Tassal Premium Tasmanian Salmon smoked salmon slices, 100g, $6.50

The flesh of this well-known brand is pink, blushed with hints of orange, and while it doesn't state on the packet what it's smoked with, the flavour is quite mild, lacking much complexity, and may be a good starting point for people trying smoked fish for the first time. This would work well in a quiche, or an omelette mixed with other flavours to match with them and not be the highlight of the dish.6/10

Superior Gold Atlantic Salmon, 100g, $6.95

Superior Gold is also owned by Tassal and, while it's more pricey, it also doesn't state what the fish has been smoked with - the ingredients simply include Atlantic salmon and salt. It is a slightly earthier orange colour than the pinkish Tassal brand and is more moist in texture, with a richer smokiness in its flavour. This would be lovely on a bagel with cream cheese or tossed through spaghettini just before serving. 7/10

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Harris Smokehouse smoked salmon, 100g, $9.95

More expensive than the others tasted and the only one to state sugar in its list of ingredients, the slices have a luscious translucence to them and a rich orange blush. The sugar doesn't overpower or take away from the smokiness, which lingers and is complex and thoughtful. This would be lovely on savoury pikelets with horseradish cream and salmon roe, or straight up with rye bread and lemon slices on the side.9/10

Fisher Bear smoked salmon, 100g, $7.95

Subtle in colour, earthy orangey pink, and the flavour, while mild in smokiness, has a lovely complexity that lingers well on the palate. There is a creaminess to its texture, it's soft and rich and moist as well. It would sit well on a bagel with cream cheese, or sliced over scrambled egg and scattered with chives. 8/10