The Ten bells

These days in New York, natural wine bars—drinkeries serving organically farmed vinos with no chemical manipulation—are a dime a dozen. There’s Racines NY in Tribeca, the Four Horsemen in Williamsburg and June in Cobble Hill. But this Lower East Side gem, located behind an unmarked door on Broome Street, helped start it all with its 2008 opening, and its list of biodynamic, small-producer-driven and often sulfite-free wines pack peeps into the bar to this day. “What makes the Ten Bells special as a wine bar is that it broke the cookie-cutter mold of an intimidating, stuffy place, like so many of the ones that came before,” says Jorge Riera, a former manager at the Ten Bells, now the wine director at Contra and Wildair. “It’s a jovial, saloonlike vibe but with a deep list of natural wines,” he says. “But most importantly, it’s accessible to everyone.” The list is lengthy but not daunting (the staff is eager to divulge what’s new and exciting if you’re scratching your head) and skews heavily toward young French and Italian producers. Surefire selections include the 2014 syrah from Herve Souhaut ($67 per bottle) and the 2014 Dynamitage Gamay from Baptiste Cousin ($53 per bottle), the son of famed Loire naturalist Olivier Cousin. The bar regularly holds Meet the Winemaker tastings (the most recent featured oenologist Jean-Michel Morel of Kabaj winery in Slovenia and Evan Lewandowski, who makes natural wine in Salt Lake City). It also serves a decent spread of meats and cheeses from Anne Saxelby Cheesemongers and Spanish-informed tapas, like vinegar-marinated boquerones and orbs of tuna-stuffed piquillo peppers.

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