lol, as much as thats traditional camping, drinking can never be ruled out, but technology IS advancing everything..looks like camping also

As for WLAN, thats what I thought, if the users are directly connected to each other without any WiFi towers, as long as they are in range should be ok.... but what about interference? Im sure that a car would have lots of things that could interefer with the signal, also tunnels and stuff?

Good games means better video cards, but I guess on a car comp Ill have to pass...

As for GPRS its just like wireless networks almost, you have a username and password. And then it authenticates each time you connect. You can just buy a dongle and use it on your computer with the appropriate software. I think windows should support it?
GSM is seperate from GPRS. Just that GPRS started with phones.

Those speeds seem pretty pissy... Id rather just take my unwired, and have a defiante 256 or 512, with the catch of stopping to use it.

As for WLAN, thats what I thought, if the users are directly connected to each other without any WiFi towers, as long as they are in range should be ok.... but what about interference? Im sure that a car would have lots of things that could interefer with the signal, also tunnels and stuff?

Nah, it'll be fine. I do lots of Wifi work from within a car. The worst environment for Wifi is in a Warehouse, in amongst 10m high racking

justfordima wrote:

As for GPRS its just like wireless networks almost, you have a username and password. And then it authenticates each time you connect. You can just buy a dongle and use it on your computer with the appropriate software. I think windows should support it?GSM is seperate from GPRS. Just that GPRS started with phones.

Okay cool! Should work a treat then

justfordima wrote:

Those speeds seem pretty pissy... Id rather just take my unwired, and have a defiante 256 or 512, with the catch of stopping to use it.

Yeh, well potentially GPRS is ALWAYS on. So sitting at the lights, u can quickly check ur mail, rather than having to hassle ur Unwired modem for a new IP address, or move it around so ur getting a good signal into the nearest base.

I'll be putting a computer in my ED over the holidays, currently thinking mini-itx is the way to go. I have no probs with the PC side of things, but when it comes to tapping into the car's power system I'm not sure what to do (cigarette lighter would work, but I'd like something more concealed if possible).

Also, how do I connect the computers line out to the car's stereo? (Currently stock, don't see a huge need to change it if I get the computer set up the way I want to - mp3s, etc).

Power is a big issue, like I said above, I don't want to use the cigarette lighter if I can avoid it. Also, I would like to tap into a power line which is active while the engine is off (like the headlight power lines), but I hardly know anything about car wiring and don't know where these lines are, any tips? (I'll be creating a small circuit to shutdown the PC gracefully when the engine is switched off).

Do any of the power lines cut out when the engine is starting/cranking or do they just drop some voltage? If possible I would like a line that does not do either, but it is not a big deal if it just drops some voltage (just need a good power supply...)

currently thinking mini-itx is the way to go. I have no probs with the PC side of things, but when it comes to tapping into the car's power system I'm not sure what to do (cigarette lighter would work, but I'd like something more concealed if possible).

Personally i wouldnt use the cigarrette lighter - or the circuit it uses.

There's a lot of way to power it from the vehicle. Im using an inverter so was simple matter of running a 12v+ to the battery with a 10amp inline fuse.

It will depend on what kind of PSU you go for. Im not sure on all of them but i know some have a constant power with a trigger for ignition. This way, the PC can power itself on and off anytime it pleases - but can set it up so it will turn itself on when you start the engine and will shut down (via operating system) when you turn the key off.

Either way - it's just a matter of running a fused 12v from the battery - can go through the firewall (through an existing grommet) or via the quarter panel (also through existing grommets)

Quote:

Also, how do I connect the computers line out to the car's stereo? (Currently stock, don't see a huge need to change it if I get the computer set up the way I want to - mp3s, etc).

3 options really:

- A head unit with line in (this is what i went for)- An RF modulator to "transmit" the sound onto an FM frequency to be picked up by your car radio- Amplifiers which are independent of the cd/radio/tape player.

Quote:

Power is a big issue, like I said above, I don't want to use the cigarette lighter if I can avoid it. Also, I would like to tap into a power line which is active while the engine is off (like the headlight power lines), but I hardly know anything about car wiring and don't know where these lines are, any tips? (I'll be creating a small circuit to shutdown the PC gracefully when the engine is switched off).

Do any of the power lines cut out when the engine is starting/cranking or do they just drop some voltage? If possible I would like a line that does not do either, but it is not a big deal if it just drops some voltage (just need a good power supply...)

You got it! Voltage will drop to an unacceptable level when you are cranking the starter motor over. Sounds like you know how to get around that tho....

If you need constant power with the engine off, probably run a fused line straight to the battery.

Thanks for any tips/ideas/feedback/whatever I'll post pics when it's all done but it will be a month or two!

Yeah those power supplies are preferred to a power inverter. Just need to make sure you get one with enough power and should be fine.

Good luck. Happy to answer any more questions - let us know how you go in the meantime. Ive had my set up going for a while and (as you can see by this and other threads) there's a few people looking at setups now.

My own direct power line to the battery might be the best option, although I don't know how to get to it from inside the car... Do I need to remove the whole dash? (Meaning everything, radio and all).

I'll get a multimeter and measure the voltage drop when cranking, that will help me decide what to do about it. If I go with an inverter (which I'd like to avoid because of low efficiency) then I may add a small UPS for power backup. Also there are some DC-DC power supplies that can provide 12v from lower voltages, so I'll see if the voltage drop is still higher than the required input for the power supply... still deciding what to do. No firm plans yet.

EF Futura, which head unit are you using with line in and how much does it cost? I only need something cheap as I'll be using the PC for the music... I might go with this option or try hooking the PC up directly to the speakers.

I think mini-itx can be power up the same way as ATX (shorting two pins, but I'll be checking before committing to anything).

Thanks for all the info, I'm still deciding what I'll be doing exactly so I'm open to suggestions. I'm trying to plan it well and do it right the first time

Also, how do I connect the computers line out to the car's stereo? (Currently stock, don't see a huge need to change it if I get the computer set up the way I want to - mp3s, etc).

3 options really:

- A head unit with line in (this is what i went for)- An RF modulator to "transmit" the sound onto an FM frequency to be picked up by your car radio- Amplifiers which are independent of the cd/radio/tape player.

Wouldnt it be possible to get a 3.5mm headphone jack to rca cables, and then have them going into a Y with both signals merging from the deck and the computer and then heading off to the amp? Or would this cause problems? Id assume not, but i dont know much But if its a stcok sound system, chances are its not gonna have an amp is it?

_________________

The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

Wouldnt it be possible to get a 3.5mm headphone jack to rca cables, and then have them going into a Y with both signals merging from the deck and the computer and then heading off to the amp? Or would this cause problems? Id assume not, but i dont know much But if its a stcok sound system, chances are its not gonna have an amp is it?

Andrew - yeah this would work but need some sort of switch as you get funky loops running multiple sources into an amp. I think can get auto-switching Y connectors.

Techgod - shouldnt be a need to remove dash to run power line through. A bit of contorting may be required.... basically, lying on your back, looking up behind the dash from where the accel/brake pedals are - you should be able to see a rubber grommet in the firewall. Just a matter of poking the cable through (easier from engine bay side) and pulling through into cabin. Dont forget your fuse

Another update on my install. PC is still dead. Not sure which direction I'm going with this yet.

But the good news is that the screen is here, and the install has begun.

The original plan was to put it above, or below the Head Unit (Double-Din style) But MRE-40L was quick to notice that when shifting into 1st, 3rd or 5th (Yep, 5sp Manual!) i'd be slamming my hand and/or gearstick into the screen. DOH!

Unfortunately there's no way around it, and we're going to have to sacrifice the main cabin vents. This doesn't really bother me as the waggin is for go-fast purposes, and the Aircon doesn't even work.

See the pics below At this stage its only a trial fit, in a spare dash surround. End result should be a very stock looking install.

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