k. that would mean the harness is defnitly 91+ .. next would thing I would suggest is to make sure that the plug on the ignighter is plugged in good... its a 2" x 3" flat black box mounted to the intake manny where the coul plug is..

on my colt back a few years ago when I would hit a bad bump/pothole the car would die and not start. i found that mine didnt have the metal clip to hold it on and even tho it looked connected it wasnt making a good connection... I put a zip tie on it and never had that issue again..(then I put a clip on it to make sure it would hold)... to try that when u get time and report back. we will get this sooner or later LOL.

sounds like a plan, the kid goes back to his moms tomorrow and after a couple of appointments as long as its not raining i'll be out there messin with it again LOL.

thanks again for the help man, its hell trying to think of what to do next all the time. Times like this is when having a friend around to throw ideas out would be nice, even if its already been done, or makes no difference...would still keep the flow of things being checked over going LOL.

Alright so i cheked and mine is on the bracket still, no play, and i hit it with a test light and its grounded. decided i'd take a couple more vids. the first one is how i get it to start/cut off and the second one is it running while i still have the key in the on position (and u hear the starter). As soon as i let off of the key it dies.

no problem. I grabbed an adapter harness from mirageman, and since we confirmed its all 91 wiring etc. its probably not that.

but yeh, i cant get over how its hard to start, and will only run with the key in the "start" position/dies when key is let go to just the on position. I'd say its gotta be some sort of air/fuel mix and maybe another problem...any test I can do to see if the throttle body is an issue? i've had people say its an idle control issue, but i'm not really sure how far i can trust what the others have mentioned (friends that know bits and pieces of info etc.) lol

also, i've got a mass air flow translator, thought about hooking that up as soon as i get a couple couplers, but not sure if that'd help or not... and would rather find the problem before i start throwing some of the after market things i've got on the car LOL.

Also if i were to give it gas while its idling with starter engaged it bogs down/would die as well

So I got up this morning and figured i'd do some more searching and something finally popped up, and is pretty similar to my problem. I've had to run power to pins on the mpi relay to get the car to even do what it is doing, and a couple grounds werent grounded either, so i've even manually grounded them to see if it helped.

This car having trouble in this post is a nt, but everything else seems to be the same. I've taken down the info on the pins from ecu to the mpi relay etc. and will see if i cant get some voltage readings. I'll actually be searching to try and find the correct voltage readings the mpi relay should be getting to each pin etc. as well, so that i can hopefully check and see what i've got if any. I have already checked the fuel pump with a test light and even hard wired it, but it did not effect anything other than i can hear the pump running all the time. Since i've had some ground issues on the mpi relay and power issues as well I'll be having another look at it all to see if I can find anything else out.

Currently though, i'd say the ecu is not continuing to supply the correct voltage to the fuel pump when key is in start position, and that the ecu may not be supplying the correct power or grounds as needed.

If anyone has any voltage info for the ecu and mpi relay that'd be greatly appreciated as well. Its raining today, supposedly later it will just be cloudy...and if so i'll be out there with the multi meter and i'll record what i find to post back here.

If a new ecu fixes the problem I'll be suprised and pissed at the same time since i've had it checked in 2009 and it was supposedly good....however it has sat for a few years since LOL so it wouldnt suprise me if it was on the way out back then and just wasnt bad enough to consider it to be the problem.

EDIT : so after looking over a few more posts from what i can see is that the power to the wires from the ecu should be 12v...as long as what i've read is correct. I'll keep looking for more info though.

ive been thinking about this over the weekend and after reading this post got a idea for the next step to tezt...this one might take a little longer to test tho but will eliminate alot I think... so in ur post above u said u connected the FP directly to power and it stays running correct?..... this is what the next step is... run a power wire to a toggle switch... then to the FP.

with the wire connected turn the switch on so the pump is running.. then try to start the car. if the car runs then its definitely either the mpi or ecu as that other post states. (OR THE WIRING TO IT).. just dont forget to turn the toggle switch off so u dont burn up the FP. let us know what those results are.

So I Just grabbed another ecu, should be here in a few days, new plugs and a new coolant temp sensor. ecu was so cheap i couldnt pass it up and it was supposedly rebuilt already. did look good on the inside though from pics, better than mine even. once i get it all here and in i'll try it out and update. Wanted an extra ecu around for a while, and if it works i'll get mine shipped off to be repaired for a little more than what i paid for the one comming.

The plugs I had were pretty black and smelled of gas terribly so figured i'd get new while i had the cash. the sensor is what i grabbed incase it is the reason why its hard to start, and it was only a few bux more than the plugs.

Just wanted to throw out a quick update, without changing anything and plugging the other ecu in, the car started/ran...has idle surge but it stayed running on its own after i get a chance to mess with it more (probably in a few days cuz the weather is gonna be crap) i'll post up any other info/update as well

Been a while, figured i'd update a little more, car runs and drives, has a slight idle surge which i just need to adjust a few things to fix once i really get serious about driving it, currently have to try doing a little welding...long story short my friend i've talked a bit about over the years left the control arm bolts partially screwed into the bottom of the car with the bracket on luckily...the bolts seized in place, the welds inside holding the nuts for the bolt to screw into broke, so the bolts are in, but very loose, so i'll be welding the bracket in place and going from there...heh, the shop i paid to remove the bolts did what i tried to avoid, broke the welds/bolts spin freely...so pissed. once i get this fixed a new upper motor mount that will be here in a week along with a valve cover helicoil set since i got a stripped valve cover bolt thread in the head...yay lol cars fun tho

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