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Colonial Foodways

From left, Jim Gay, Barbara Ball, Frank Clark,
Rob Brantley, Dennis Cotner, and Susan Holler of Colonial Williamsburg's
foodways program set out a grand meal in the Governor's Palace kitchen. In
front, beef, chicken, and fish dishes anchor a meal that includes vegetables,
baked goods, and deserts.

Barbara Ball slices a fish-in-pastry dish

Jim Gay
grates bread

Dennis Cotner paints a marzipan strawberry

Rob Brantley whisks eggs

Susan Holler cranks the
weights on a spit jack

Principal cook William Sparrow began his day
early at the Governor's Palace in Williamsburg. He went to the kitchen as soon
as he had light to see to work. He couldn't waste a minute. Servants had to be
awakened. Fires required stoking. The market opened early, and Sparrow hurried
to it as soon as he could to buy the day's groceries. He created a menu and had
the staff prepare and cook food. Everybody focused on delivering dinner, the
day's largest and most elaborate meal, to eager visitors at about 2 p.m.
Cleanup followed. Probably, Sparrow then could catch his breath. After all, as
usual, supper and tomorrow's breakfast would be leftovers from the afternoon
meal.

The six members of
Colonial Williamsburg's foodways staff work at a less demanding pace than
Sparrow. But like him they use eighteenth-century kitchenware, recipes, and
ingredients to make the same meals that graced the tables of the wealthy and
powerful in colonial Virginia. Specialist Dennis Cotner, journeyman Robert
Brantley, and apprentices Barbara Ball, James Gay, and Susan Holler teach
guests about colonial food processing, cooking and consumption. The team's
culinary achievements range from roast pigeon to a ragout of cucumbers, fried
ox tongue, mince pies, and syllabub, a sweet, frothy, alcohol-laden dessert.
Guests can watch them preparing these and other colonial specialties in the
Historic Area at the kitchens for the Governor's Palace and the Peyton Randolph
House, places to accommodate a crowd, to demonstrate cooking techniques, and to
exhibit finished dishes.

The foodways team
prepares dishes served to the colony's upper class because so much historical
information about their culinary life is available, said Frank Clark, foodways
supervisor and Colonial Williamsburg's first journeyman cook. Historians know
far less about food practices of people further down the social scale, but
cookbooks, documents, kitchen inventories, and archaeological research provide
a detailed picture about how the governor and the gentry dined. For example,
Sparrow's account book survives, detailing his marketing. With this
information, Williamsburg interpreters use the same ingredients on the same
days Sparrow did when he worked at the Palace in 1769 and 1770.

Modern Americans have a
few things in common with the dining habits of the colonial upper crust. Basic
cooking techniques haven't changed. Colonial cooks fried, roasted, baked, and
boiled. They used many of the same foodstuffs found in today's groceries: beef,
lamb, pork, chicken, fish, vegetables, and baked goods. Then as now, coffee,
tea, and chocolate were popular beverages.

Beyond these common
roots, though, little was the same as it is today. Food preparation and
presentation were different. So were diner's tastes, customs, and expectations.

To start,
eighteenth-century cooks could serve only food that was in season. Fresh fruits
and vegetables were not available year round. Colonial Virginians could
preserve some foods for the long term, typically by smoking or salting.
Short-term preservation, say a few days, was impossible without refrigeration.

Anyone who wanted
chicken for dinner got the bird early in morning, killed it, cleaned it—which
included plucking—and cooked it. Colonists ate the leftovers at supper and breakfast
before they could spoil. Dining on a grand scale was a logistical challenge.
The English nobility kept kitchen staffs filled with specialists because of
this. King George II employed 200 cooks at one time.

Cooking and baking
required the ability to use a wood fire. Nobody employed kitchen thermometers.
So successful cooking meant gauging and using wood heat accurately and
carefully.

"Cooking with wood isn't
any more difficult than cooking with any other fuel. Heat is heat regardless of
the source. However, with wood, the cook has to be more patient and plan
ahead," Gay said. "You have to generate hot coals, which when piled up, become
your burners. The best fuel to use is well-seasoned hardwood, which burns
hotter and longer than softwood. The cook has to be able to 'read' the fire and
know which coals are the hottest. You judge heat by color and brightness, much
like a blacksmith looks at hot iron. Yellow heat is hotter than orange, which
is hotter than red. You also have to remember that once you take hot coals out
of the fire, you have to put more wood on it."

Cooks also approached
seasoning differently than their twenty-first-century counterparts because
eighteenth-century tastes were different. By today's standards, colonial fare
offered too much grease, too much meat, too much seasoning, and too much
sweetener. Diners liked meat and lots of it. They considered animal organs,
like hearts and brains, tasty delicacies. Cooks used sugar, cinnamon, and
nutmeg liberally. Raw fruits and vegetables were considered unappetizing. So
the kitchen help usually cooked them. Sweet drinks prevailed, too. Dry wines
were not popular. Madeira, a sweet wine fortified with brandy, was. Cocktails
didn't exist, but alcohol-rich punches did.

Food presentation was
different. The main meal, dinner, was served midafternoon. Formal meals had two
or three courses. Meat dishes often came to the table with the animal's head
and feet attached. The upper class ate little bread. Instead, they might use a
roll to maneuver food on a plate and sop up gravy and sauce.

Anybody aspiring to cook
for the upper class in America or England learned the art through an
apprenticeship. This meant finding a skilled cook to serve as instructor. For
part of the eighteenth century, it also meant learning to fix French cuisine.
Brought to England by Charles II, French food had a limited but enthusiastic
following in the nobility. This style relied heavily on sauces and dishes
requiring multiple steps in preparation. In Virginia, a governor might have a European-trained
head cook. The gentry probably didn't, although they might encourage their
cooks to learn European techniques.

Not everybody approved
of Gallic cuisine. People lower in society liked their food simpler. That
explains why the period's most popular cookbook was Hannah Glasse's The Art
of Cooking Made Plain and Easy for Housewives and Maids, published in 1745

Almost everybody in the
1700s could cook, Brantley said: "Guests are surprised by who was actually
doing the cooking. They automatically assume that only black females did
cooking in the eighteenth-century homes. Some guests are shocked when they
learn that many people—men, women, black, white, rich, and poor—learned to cook
on some level."

Governor Dunmore cooked
for himself on trips to the frontier. Lawyer George Wythe did the same,
traveling to meetings of Congress in Philadelphia.

The Colonial
Williamsburg apprentice program covers a body of knowledge from butchering to
frying, broiling, roasting, and baking and making sauces, soups, and creams.
Special programs focus on beer brewing, chocolate making, and hog butchering.

"Everybody is interested
in food," Clark said. "At one point, everybody has tried to cook. So we have an
instant connection with people the moment they step in the kitchen. We reach
their hearts through their stomachs."

Frank Clark fries eggs over open flames

A fish kettle sits next to stacked sugar cakes in the center. Sweet potato pudding and a marzipan hedgehog are directly below.

Colonial Foodways
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Ed Crews is contributing a series of stories on
Colonial Williamsburg trades. His story "Spies and Scouts," on Revolutionary
War intelligence, appeared in the summer 2004 issue. Read his article "Cast in the Colonial Mold" from the winter 2003-04 journal.