Shuck Oyster Bar: perfect except for one thing

Dec. 12, 2012

Updated Aug. 21, 2013 1:17 p.m.

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Kyle Rucker, lead shucker and manager, at Shuck Oyster Bar, prepares a half-dozen oysters on ice. LEONARD ORTIZ, THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Half a dozen oysters at the Shuck Oyster Bar at SoCo in Costa Mesa. Pictured are First Lights, on left, and Rocky Nooks. The price is $3 per oyster. The sauces included are, from left, pickled jalapeno, tomatillo and mignonette sauces. All are made fresh daily in-house. LEONARD ORTIZ, THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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A grilled cheeze sandwich, $10, at the Shuck Oyster Bar at SoCo in Costa Mesa. LEONARD ORTIZ, THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Kyle Rucker, lead shucker and manager, at Shuck Oyster Bar, prepares a half-dozen oysters on ice. The menu on the wall features their wide selection of oysters. LEONARD ORTIZ, THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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The Shuck Oyster Bar at SoCo in Costa Mesa features a wide selection of oysters. LEONARD ORTIZ, THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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The sauces available at Shuck Oyster Bar in Costa Mesa are pickled jalapeno, tomatillo and mignonette sauces. All are made fresh daily in-house. LEONARD ORTIZ, THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

Shuck Oyster Bar at SoCo

I can't think of a better way to spend a late autumn afternoon than to cozy up to a bar and eat oysters, one at a time, all the time in the world, freshly shucked by a savvy bartender who himself is in no hurry. The only urgency, of course, is to not let the oysters sit for more than a few seconds after they've been shucked, as that's when they taste their very best.

Throw in a beautiful grilled cheese sandwich oozing rich quality cheddar, dipped into a perfectly acidic red pepper sauce, and before I know it, the sun is starting to set and the air begins to chill.

The only problem with this picture is that Shuck Oyster Bar at SoCo, where this scene unfolds, doesn't yet have its liquor license. Oysters without wine is a crime – a minor offense, not a felony, but still. And I'm guessing that's why this place isn't more crowded. The staff assures me the wine permit will come soon, perhaps as early as January. Until then, iced tea will have to do.

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