The Watch Snob On Building A Rewarding Collection

Finding A Timepiece Collection Theme - The Watch Snob Weighs In

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Finding A Collection Direction

Since I began my journey into watches around three years ago, your weekly responses have had much influence in fostering my learning and enjoyment in this hobby of watch collecting, and so, I want to start off with a word of appreciation and gratitude.

Now in the past, I would make my decision on purchasing a watch by considering whether it would, for the lack of a better expression, “sing to me” firstly, and then consider if I could purchase it within my budget. Recently though, I felt that my collection was lacking a sense of direction and hence I wish to ask for your advice on how I can develop my collection further, possibly developing a common theme, along with suggestions for watches I can consider getting.

Currently, I own a pre-moon Omega Speedmaster, a Rolex Datejust 1603, a Gallet Multichron 12H (white dial with red telemeter and blue tachymeter), and a Seiko SKX007. I look forward to hearing from you.

I cross this question, and similar questions, from time to time and in general, it’s a bit difficult to answer as it is very difficult to deduce, from a wide-ranging group of watches purchased to satisfy different needs, what might prove rewarding to collect; it is also a bit difficult to offer direction without a notion of what you might have in terms of budget. You have real classics so far — the SKX007 is a classic; the Rolex is a classic; ditto the Speedmaster. The Gallet Multichron is the outlier here, and an indication that you might find it rewarding to collect vintage chronographs of some sort, the only disadvantage being that very many people are doing exactly that, and competition is quite fierce (which of course has driven up prices).

I would suggest that as a way of identifying what you might find rewarding to collect, you spend some time looking at and reading about watches as much as possible, rather than trying to deliberately choose a subject. At some point, I think, you will be struck with interest in something and will be able to make a much more organic, and therefore, much more satisfying decision about what you would like to focus on. For myself, the first category of watches I collected was vintage wristwatch chronometers — a vast and very satisfying subject, but it was only so because it was personally appealing.

Dress Watch Or Not?

I have a collection of about a dozen watches that I don’t want to grow too large. I want every watch in my collection to have its place, and I am mostly a casual tool/sports watchman. I want a gold dress watch, and I really like the yellow gold Lange 1815. I love the look of the blue hands against the yellow gold case. However, I am torn between the regular, simple 1815 with the single sub-seconds and the up/down. Would the Up/Down look too close to a chronograph to be a true dress watch? I can’t rationalize or afford to get this AND another gold dress watch, so it needs to fit that description.

Ah yes, this is a conundrum for sure with the 1815 Up/Down, which does indeed have two sub-registers — one for the running seconds, one for the power reserve. It does look a bit like a chronograph, I will grant, although the fact that the registers sit much lower on the dial than they would for a chronograph prevents the resemblance from being too close, in my view. Also, of course, there are no pushers, which helps a lot to keep the watch from being too chronograph-ish.

If one steps back a bit from your question, there is an interesting larger question which is what actually constitutes a dress watch? There are two answers: one is that a dress watch is any watch, not with complications, in a precious metal, and on a strap. (This is like any attempt to describe a natural phenomenon, somewhat incomplete, but it will do to go on with). The more narrow answer defines dress in terms of what one should wear with semi-formal attire (in other words, a tuxedo; the full formal dress code for men is white tie and one can easily go one’s entire life without being asked to get kitted up in a tailcoat). Strictly speaking, a watch worn with a tuxedo — if one is worn at all — should be simple (ideally, no seconds hand) flat, and preferably in white metal (some people think colored gold is not correct). An extension from this is that a dress watch, if worn with business attire, should largely adhere to the same rules, although with business attire, colored gold would be allowable.

In this case, quite honestly, I think that unless you are planning on wearing it with a tux (which probably no one would mind, although strictly speaking it would not meet the requirements for the semi-formal code) the 1815 Up/Down fits the bill just fine.

Updating An Inheritance

I was gifted an Omega Automatic by my late grandfather, which goes without saying means an incredible amount to me from a sentimental point. I would like to honor his memory by making the watch something special, but I also do not want to do anything to damage or lose its history.

I have a couple of questions, if you would not mind giving me some advice:

1) Do I have it re-plated? There are a few spots that have faded, but do I keep the patina or make it like new again?

2) What strap to get? Do I keep a black leather strap, or do I go with a metal strap?

I would really appreciate advice in this regard, I would like to make this something special, to pass down.

It’s a bit difficult to answer this without seeing the watch — I will assume therefore that it is an Omega Automatic from the 1960s or 1970s, with an Omega movement, and a case of steel with gold plate overlaid. The answer to your questions depends on whether or not you want to wear the watch on a regular basis. If the answer is yes, I would suggest having the case replated, as with plated cases, the base metal is generally not corrosion resistant and the case will eventually be irreversibly pitted.

Of course, the movement should be serviced as well.

As far as the strap vs. bracelet question is concerned, my own inclination would be to wear the watch as it was originally intended to be worn (on a black leather strap, from what you’ve written). I generally have found that simple, round, gold or gold-plated watches, unless made to match a specific bracelet, tend to look better on straps. This again is a generalization, but I think bracelets added after the fact to vintage dress watches, have a way of looking superfluous.

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