What a session ! There was a lot of surfers at 8AM at hight tide. So I walked up north. I went to surf the first lonely spot. And it was jackpot ! A A frame was cranking (right and left), 100m long.... I stayed alone 45mn then surfers came. I took plenty of waves, nearly only lefts. Cutback, roller, re entry, floater, small tubes...

After the first session at Penhors which was far from good. I passed along Gwendrez. I discovered the left on the rocks at mid tide. That was the first time I saw this wave. It was breaking on rocks. Take off in front of rocks, bottom and a fun wall....

a good surprise and a good small session. After 45min, the tide was too low...

This morning : the buoy was 3m, 11s. At low tide, waves were small and hollow (1.20m). We waited a little with Dahomey. With the incoming tide, waves became bigger : a tubular 1.50m sometimes 2mon the best.

Dahomey has taken plenty of tubes, real tubes. I got very good backside roller and 3 tubes. The last onbe was the best : hollow take off, entry, har to go out then continue to surf !

The swell has increased since the day before. A first group of surfers stayed en the hight tide peak (I was there) and the second group went up north. I just got perfect waves : a A frame peak, fast but not too much, hollow but always makeable ! A paradise !

Then I broke my leash ! I saw on the north peak a right even better ! But it was time to come back home and my leash was broken.

Early in the morning, early in the water with the "grilled bread team". We started on a high tide peak. I got powerful waves end good lefts (with tubes). Then a second wave, a right, started to work. I have to came back as it turned perfect.

Good session : good commitment, I need to be more active on the wave, put my arms lower and use better my shoulders.

Cristobal swell : long nearly too long for our sanbanks. There were only 2 surfers but they went out. I stayed alone on this longright. And it was better than on photos : the wall was really good to rip near the shoulder. I worked my backside bottom and roller. I got also few good punchy lefts.

The swell was long and the small waves were just clean. With my children I surfed the sandbank. We got caught in the inside with the younger one who has experimented for the first time a set-on-the-head.

Impossible to wake up this morning. So I went a bit late at the surf but the wind hasn't turned. And the waves were good : punchy bowls. I stayed away the main peak end found good ones. Then I went on the main peak and met all the locals.I have done very good carves and an air.

Caught an evening surf - with most other places flat or flat and crowded, Waddell had some nice beach breaks going in the mid area - but the real fun was at the point on the southern end of the beach - with several different bowl sections giving mostly good lefts. Fun waves, but the real treat was the wildlife - a couple of dolphins swam north right past us then back south with a whole pod who hung around in the waves, I guess eating and playing. Later 3 seals jumping around - were they hunting or being hunted - never quite sure in these waters :-)

Woke up at 5 am. I went to Ataka without any hope. But a post typhoon swell was here, no wind. Ataka didn't work but someone else should work. I decide to go to Kanazawa Harbour. I took the higway and, at the Service Area of Tokomitsu, I remenbered that ther was a strange round jetty.... I stopped to have a look and it was a good surprise : a point break wave was here around the jetty. 100m of good surfing. Locals were there. I got few good ones.

Went north of Santa Cruz to find even a bit of swell - town is super-flat. Tried to get my 8 yr old out on a soft-top, but the watre was just too cold for his cheap wetsuit. So wrapped him in a blanket on the beach and had a few small walls. Beautiful place.