Slovenian designers in Hostel Celica

Daily ― 14. 12. 2017

Firstly I have to say congratulations to organisation and fashion enthusiast Lea Bernot, who created a fashion show with a low budget and promoted young Slovenian designers in Hostel Celica. With the fashion show founder ŠOU Ljubljana she exceeded in making it all work smoothly. Here are all thirteen thirteen designers and their best nine creations. For each I wrote a short critique for which I hope I will be speared ;). The incredible photos were made by Žiga Zupančič, the lightning by Peter Prevec. The simple yet unusual makeup was made by always cheerful Martina Borščak, assistant Barbara Kolar. Fashionable hairdos were created by Špela Penko and Maša Tomažin. Hope you will enjoy my point of view, here we go …

You might remember Ema Salčinovič or Lesema from our giveaway. This season she decided to present her collection called Lilian. Her handy wood skills really stood out at her accessories. She decided to have a natural yet smart approach to style with a tactile lineup full of hushed nude tones and rich neutrals. She dialed down the vivid colors and punchy prints in favor of a new emphasis on texture and textiles. I liked the simplicity, yet maybe the simplicity was the problem that the collection was not mesmerizing. What I am sure of is that the collection flatters a woman’s body with highlighted curves, narrow lines, soft materials, which combine a form of feminine and subtle yet relaxed silhouette – as Ema described it.

Iva Katalenič takes us on a updated version of a rockabilly style, which is a mix of rock and roll and country music. This collection was for a girl who is transforming from a little hair-bow to a naughty lace tights kind of a chick. Its dark palette, abundance of paisleys or florals, and concentration of wavy mini skirts, the clothes had a nice sense of drama. Though in a youthful demeanor Iva found interesting ways of letting in the light to this collection. Starting with her own prints on simple shirts, adding countryside straps and different Dr. Martens shoes the line looked complete and thought through. Everything matched and provided the basis for an intellectual and intriguing collection.

Drumroll, please. The moment everyone’s been waiting – Saša Nemec and Ema Bavcon. How can I not adore this collection? Saša and Ema claimed two things in their show: the collection was recognizable as their own work, and it looked authentic. They joined their creative powers and created a collection that blurred the boundaries between the past and present. With Ema’s fashion accessories they aced familiarity and authenticity. A wool based creation is dominated by flatness, geometry, pattern and a combination of light and rigid materials. The collection reflects a high society Madame from the sixties. We can feel a jeune fille flair in a peplumed jacket and a fluffy short skirt, which embraces a sculptural quality in their clothes. The silhouettes certainly defined a strong, clear line. Perhaps that is why the most memorable piece in the show was the simplest: this long sleeved dress with masculine shoulders, a vintage spoon and a Eiffel tower in the back. Saša with her firm grasp of tailoring and Ema with her vintage imagination are a strong duo.

There was much to love about Karmen Koren’s Swing collection. Just the idea is something different – making a collection from old clothes and processed materials in which we can find interesting stories that give a special charm. The designer showed a range of layered looks in which garments were not always what they seemed. Maybe the collection was just a tiny bit too in-the-nose. In particular, Karmen’s approach to referencing the grandmothers era and more-is-more styling was rather too literal with overmuch directness. We didn’t get the sense that the young designer was adding anything very new to the clothes. But it did have some strengths; the vintage shoes were a golden find and the cute spotty pattern had a fun touch to the styling’s… In the whole collection there was too much going on and Karmen’s maximalism would be just right if she would add some restraint. Sometimes Wawawoom looks demand a dash of discipline.

Clothing and jewelry designer Tina SQSHI Starc was inspired by the 80s. We saw a inspiration of pop music, exuberance, dance, street fashion and the time when girls were just having fun. These trendy mixes of modern clothes and jewelry made out of laces brought the whole collection to a perfect story. But will these looks fly off the runway and directly into cool girls’ closets? While some added trendy styling would have helped, the idea worked. All in all she emphasized ease and simplicity with sportswear, which makes you appreciate the refined comfort of these clothes.

Eva Jančar Kalan – Evita took her inspiration from her own personal style and Prince, who is seductive, sexy and slightly provocative – at the same time he worshipswomen. The jackets pointed out the designers tailoring skills and a sense of proportion too. She used rich material to play with, and the fine variety of continual ideas on the runway. The combination of dark colors and fabric, gave you a sense of Eva’s exuberance about the project. The compliation of sexy high-waisted jersey, revealing blazers and playful bows lead the collection into a coherent whole.

Next up NIKATO Couture has created a ready-to-wear collection, made up of short dresses and knitted sweaters in warm tones of red, beige and brown. Torkar took a chance and stripped away from the elegant narratives of her last collections. Here she took her signals from the street, and the exercise in restraint from prestige clothing helped her find her youthful essence. She was up to something really intriguing this season, giving fun looks a sense of comfort… maybe too much comfort. Some stitching’s were slightly askew as if they’d been sewn on in a hurry. The emphasis on comfort meant there wasn’t a clear message on proportion or silhouette. The oversized line here was a bit of a struggle for me, models often seemed lost in their clothes. I liked the main idea of a relaxing, breathy feel in these clothes. The touch of warm thick woolen caps by Andreja Kogelnik made the collection into a consummation of a youthful fantasy.

As almost last, but definitely one of the best, three designers took the stage. Nataša Belcijan, Barbara k. Germ and Damjana Rožič created a collection called Black & White Futuro. Leather accessories with lace and glass combine the idea of a sensual, fragile an vulnerable female soul. Her eternity is emphasized by her handbag in shape of a circle, symbolizing continuity and immortality. I adored Natalie’s handbags, the only thing I would change is the material. Handbags for me should be leather. For women’s poor feet, they added sneakers and flat shoes for the futuristic look. Accessories are an expanding category, and the glass jewelry made through perfection energized a collection that was the futuristic line’s most sophisticated accomplishment. The dresses told a different story than the accessories. They added a touch of modesty, if the future was about humility and purity. Everything fits and is a reflection of hard work and precision. Here we saw a mighty fine collaboration with three incredibly talented and strong women.

Duo Elizabeta Likovič and Nejc Švarc – Glow presented a collection called Haute Future (a very nice word mix). Their collection was the cherry on top. Its elevation to the full-blown extravagance of the four looks shown here, perversely made a futuristic sense. Fashion accessories are handcrafted and perfected by a mind set “more is more”. Should you ever meet these two young talented designers, you will undoubtedly agree that they don’t seem like two lunatics, as their accessories do. Their weird and wonderful collection made it clear that they must have a screw or two loose, somewhere. In fashion this is very welcoming. They tended to mash up nutty and play with strangely awesome… It worked.