This is a very British breakfast dish, though I think it an excellent lunch or evening meal too. It was invented in India for army officers by an Irish cook. Or so it has been said. Apparently the name is derived and the dish adapted from an Indian dish named kichri or khichdi . The addition of eggs, smoked fish and bechamel sauce are all said to be variations on the original, which was a sort of spiced porridge of rice, lentils and vegetables.

I learned this one from my Irish grandmother, who used to make it when she was “in Service” back before the war. Over the years I have made some adaptions of my own. I don’t think hers had onion. My béchamel is a little different from her white sauce. Other recipes use cream or yoghurt and long grain rice and are lighter and less “stodgy” than this one.