The other day a fellow volunteer told me an interesting story that I felt sums up much of our job as Peace Corps Volunteers.

A couple weeks ago she was sitting at the market drinking the local beverage, chouck (I’ve written about it in past entries… I think there is even a picture of me drinking it somewhere in the archives.) A little girl (probably 5 or 6 years old) and her mother were there as well, sitting a few feet away. My friend saw the girl point to her and ask a question to the mother. We are all very used to being talked about and she thought nothing of it.

Again the little girl asked something of the mother and pointed at my friend. This time the mother got up, and slightly sheepishly walked over to where my friend was sitting and asked, “I’m so sorry to bother you, but, my daughter has never touched white skin before. Would you mind if she touched you?” My friend being the good sport she is thought for a second and said, “Sure.”

The mother motioned to the girl who timidly approached my friend, slowly put out her hand and touched the white arm. Her eyes went large and she quickly pulled away. She stood there, staring at my friends arm, and finally reached out to touch it again.

This time she gave it a few strokes then looked up and said to her mother, “It’s the same as black skin!”

There are times in Peace Corps when I become consumed with my work. When that work isn’t going quite so well I get depressed and begin wondering why I am even here. Then there are the little day to day exchanges like the one my friend had that bring me back to reality and remind me of my real job.

Note... Don't forget to read the entry about the project I am working on!

224 comments:

Sorry for the long comment, I could not find your email address in your /. post.I have invented and built the MultiMachine, a large, open-source machine tool that I think could make a great deal of difference in many developing areas. Thanks to the 2500 member Yahoo news group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/multimachine/ and the fact that the free plans were chosen as an open-source Christmas gift by the “Make” magazine web site, the machine is beginning to be known of in many parts of the world.

The MultiMachine is a multi purpose machine tool that a semi-skilled mechanic with just regular hand tools can build using only scrap car and truck parts. A few sacks of concrete mix, a little bar stock and a few feet of angle iron will make make the job easier but are not vital.

Electric power is not needed for construction because we have "re-invented" an easily built hand powered drill that can make one inch holes in the hardest steel. The plans for this drill are in the "How to build a MultiMachine" book in our newsgroup "files" section.

In developing countries, the MultiMachine has the potential for saving or improving the lives of many thousands of people. These machines can be used in many ways:

In the health sector by its use in building water pumps, filters, water well drilling rigs and hospital furnishings. In agriculture by its use in building farm machinery and irrigation pumps.In transportation by its use in building and repairing parts for vehicles.In communications by its use as as a cell phone charging station. In village life by being a source of battery power for home lighting. In education by providing vocational education students with machine tools that they build themselves and then are able to take back to their villages when they graduate.

My MultiMachine could provide a local self supporting infrastructure that would be available to keep water and irrigation pumps in repair. Organizations go to great effort and expense to drill water wells and provide pumps in rural areas of underdeveloped countries only to have these pumps fail because there is no person able to repair them. A small MultiMachine based business could provide a pump repairman with the means to earn a living in an area where these pumps and wells are used. The pump repairman could support himself by doing machine shop type jobs like making and sharpening agricultural tools and equipment and resurfacing vehicle flywheels, brake drums and disks.

The MultiMachine could be powered by something as primative as a bicycle drive but if, however, gas, diesel engines or electric motors are available to power the machine, any surplus power could also run a welding machine built from a vehicle alternator and could also recharge batteries that in turn could be used for led home lighting or recharging cell phone batteries.

The combination of a MultiMachine and an alternator based welder can be used to build different types of metal bending and rolling machines that can be used to manufacture fuel efficient cook stoves, pots, pans and similar products.

The MultiMachine also provides a way to machine simple zinc and aluminum castings made from the metal found in old car parts. Without this machining, the castings are of limited use but simple machining can turn them into hundreds of different kinds of products.

Vocational education takes "hands on" learning. Few vocational schools in developing countries have sufficient numbers of the machine tools that are necessary for training students. This problem could be solved with student built MultiMachines.

Look around you. Almost every manufactured product that is made of metal is a combination of parts that have been machined (castings, screws and bolts) and sheet, bar and tubular metal that has been welded, bent, rolled or spun into a needed shape. The essentialy free MultiMachine and the tools it can produce can do all this.

A group of specialized MultiMachines can do much more. The MultiMachine can be easily built in dozens of special versions that are specially built to do just a single type of metal working job. If these special machines were grouped together and driven from a common power source, they could be used in a form of developing world mass production. Most of these machine versions could be built with just one or two broken vehicle engines, a piece of pipe, a few feet of steel bar, a sack of cement and a few easily made zinc/aluminum castings.

I stumbled onto your site, which was featured by Blogger. My name is Carla. Twenty three years ago I married my fiance, a World Bank employee, who shortly thereafter was sent for a two year mission to Cotonou, Benin, seconded to the finance ministry of the Peoples Republic. After graduating from law school in May 1984 I took the Virginia Bar in August and flew to Cotonou via Paris. It was the first time I'd ever been anywhere by myself.

Your site brought back a lot of memories. Back then Benin was a true backwater, with air service only from Air Afrique, Air France, and KLM. When we wanted to go to civilization we would drive to Lome, putting up with delays at the border with guards wearing huge Eyadema buttons on their shirts. Thanks to my husband's UN Laissez Passe it was easier than it was for others, but it was still time-consuming. Nevertheless, a trip to Lome was a fairly easy jaunt from Cotonou.

Your experience with the little girl reminded me of an incident wherein we drove north toward a large sugar factory called Save. We stopped at a market to look at the artwork, and as we did I could feel a tiny hand rubbing along my arm. The little girl would rub my hand, look at her fingers, then rub again. Adorable. I was her very first white person. Given that many voodoo (they called it voudoun or gri-gri) practitioners cover themselves with white powder, and voudoun is heavily practiced in Benin and Togo, I imagine the little girl may have witnessed ceremonies and wondered why my whiteness did not rub off like the powder on the celebrants.

I hope you get a chance to really look around and perhaps get to Benin. You should try to go to Abomey, seat of the Fon kings, who were also sometimes either confused with or known as the Dan, from which came the origin of the name Dahomey, Benin's original name. They didn't allow photos in the king's compound back then, but they have a throne made of human skulls and walls made of the blood of sacrificed animals and humans. Kind of oogey. There's also a python house for the sacred pythons. Somewhere there are pix of my husband and me standing around with pythons around our necks.

I would recommend also that you head toward Cotonou on the coast road, which passes through the peninsular area known as Gran Popo. Somewhere along that route is a huge baobab tree, very old, under which the cousin of our Beninese driver once told us that the slaves collected from that region would be gathered prior to their transport to the ships which took them to America and the Caribbean.

The name of the town of Cotonou itself was said not to be related to cotton, a local crop, but to be co-to-nou, which ostensibly meant "Place by the Waters of Death" in Fon or one of the local dialects.

I hope you enjoy your time in Togo. It's a very different world, very interesting.

My blog is located at http://catzmaw.blogspot.com. It's a little hard to find sometimes, but it's at Google Blogs and of course on Blogger.

Isn't it just amazing how the universe sends us these gifts wrapped in amazing packages. If only everyone could experience what you are going through and could truly live from abundance and gratitude instead of lack.

I live in South-Africa a country that has been torn apart by racism, people here both black and white are slow on the road to recovery and while the news in countries such as the US show pretty pictures of co-operation, we are not close to it yet. the ugly snake is still there amoung black and white, but your story illustrates how people should see one another, like children

Being a black male in a predominantly white community in the US I have had similar experiences as yours. However, I have been approached by a young white girl versus the young African girl. There have been many times in my life where I have been approached by a person with the same intentions, pure with curiosity and questions that no books or TV shows can answer. Children and adults wanting to gain the first hand experience of my culture and where I come from. I hope you enjoy the rest of your time and keep a positive attitude about your journey to Africa. Your videos and writing are very helpful in understand the environment that you have now become accustomed to. Hopefully more people will follow in your footsteps and participate in the peace corps.

Hey Aaron, we drove through Lome a couple of weeks ago! Next time I'll pop by.

See, your sort of blog was what I had in mind when I went to Lagos, but with internet access only once in like 10 days it didn't really work out that way... it's a crying shame! We should definitely keep in touch though.

just stumbled upon your blog doing a search for 'peace corps'...i've been obsessed with south africa for years (and south america too)...i've travelled a bit...australia/nz/europe...but my real heart lies in developing countries...anyways, just wanted to say i really enjoy your writing and updates...you're a talented writer...and since i'm only a year out of college, i think i'm going to apply....did u go straight from graduation into the peace corps? and did u get to pick africa as a preference or did they randomly place u?thanks!

Hi Aaron, blogger has spotlighted your blog and that's how I found you. I was in Thai 19 group, back in the late 60s. The world has changed so much since then. My communications home were strictly by mail. My technology was record player and records. Your house is much fancier than mine was, though I loved my teak Thai house on stilts. But my school, even then, seems to have been a little better furnished than yours in the video.

I sent home color slides, sometimes I made an audio tape to go along with them. Usually I typed up the description on my manual typewriter. I had to send my slides to Hong Kong or Australia to be developed. It took two or three weeks to get them back.

But people are still the same. Being the 'farang' (white foreigner) everywhere, I had lots of experiences like the one you describe.

Peace Corps Thailand is still one of the greatest influences on my life even today. Your time will, I'm sure, be the same. Communicating your experience by blog is a great way to fulfill the final PC mission - communicating to the folks back home what it was all about.

Hahah, the same thing happened to me. My little sister just finished up her 2 year Peace Corps tour in rural Ghana. I visited her twice and there were many kids we saw who either hadn't seen or touched white skin.

The reaction shifted between curiosity (petting, stroking, touching hair) and abject terror. No on seemed more amused by the tearful eruptions than the mothers, who laughed and carried their babies even closer to the odd white person.

I've been to Lome in Togo. Beautiful place. We used to go there on holiday when we lived as expats in Nigeria and marvel at the fact thay you could buy apples in the supermarket. Good luck with your project. I'd like to link you to my blog if I can figure out how.....

Aaron, congrats the Peace Corps does a world of good...I just want you to be mindful that for many people here in the U.S., the only concept we have of the region (and developing world generally) is from what we see in blogs/pictures etc. which I thinks places some responsibility over the poster.

Nobody's privacy should be sacrificed to satisfy another's curiosity. I just wonder how many people consent to their image being broadcast globally. And while for example, a rural marketplace in a Nigerian city may be more "interesting" than, say, abuja national park, without context it provides a skewed picture of the country.

Based on some of the crap around, if I wasn't from the region (Nigerian-American, raised primarily in NG), I would probably be convinced that no Africans live regular dance-less, drum-less, safari-less, unceremonious, boring lives where they just go to work at a bank or some other institution, and drive home to have dinner with their families like everyone else.

These comments are not necessarily directed to you but are just general thoughts of mine. Blogs like yours can either be very educational, helping to bridge gaps... or to perpetuate harmful stereotypes. Good luck with your prgram. Peace.

As a fellow Volunteer, I completely understand that experience. I chose a different to Volunteer in the US, specifically Detroit MI. Despite the many heart breaking moments in this line of work, its those little moments that keep me going. Good luck as you finish your term of service, I commend you for your work.

When I read you are blogging your Peace Corps experience, I was thrilled. I have friends who are missionaries doing relief work for decades that no one ever hears about.

I think the Peace Corps is like missionary work, service to those who will never really know you, and then you leave. The good work stays on, and the memories stay on, but the big splash in the newspaper, like Brad Pitt making a visit, never happens.

man, it's great to hear about someone doing what you're doing! especially in a country like Togo. i've visited myself, only stayed for 2 weeks but i had the time of my life. (i've travelled quite a bit, but Togo goes right up there on the top of the list) i was staying at a christian hospital north of Lome; i can't recall the name, but i'd be able to find out.

anyways, best wishes, you're having an eye-opening experience so few are so fortunate to have.

Anonymous(Nigerian-American person),I am really in agreement with you and your perspective is a very important one. I have had the opportunity to speak to several immigrants from africa, women who work for the agency hired to live-in with my grandmother. The world is getting smaller. but are we better off for it?

Aaron dude, I mean this is really good writing. Man your popular!! The site is boosting you up! Well see my blog if you can, though im very very new in here. Im from a poor third world country called Bangladesh, full of poverty, violence and corruption. Flooded by so many problems, you would be surprised to know that we send the world's higest number of men to the UN for the kind of work that you do!! cheers man!

I read about your experience, as if I was right there, being that little girl. My very first encounter with Caucasian playmates in my African homeland was with missionary children around the age of 8. I was amazed by the texture of their hair, and would sometimes ask their permission to just streak it with my fingers. Those who were not very tender-headed, would even allow us braid their hair. That made us very very happy.

Also, I am a product of the sacrifices made by Peace Corps Volunteers. I applaud the tremendous amount of economic and personal sacrifices each one of you makes to help developing countries around the world. Thank you so very much. In fact, I wish I could get in touch with the Peace Corps Teachers who shared so much knowledge with the students at Totota Lutheran Mission and Konola Academy in Liberia, West Africa, during the sixties and seventies. Thanks again for sharing the story about the little girl and your friend. As a fifty-four year old teacher in the US, it took me way way back!

Like pretty much everybody else who commented here, I stumbled on your page from the Blogger feature. And I just wanted to let you know that you're an inspiration.

It's long been a dream of mine to volunteer somewhere and see the world. I'm only 18 and I'm heading out for Asia in 2008 to start volunteering with various organizations.

I think your comment in the blog, "When that work isn’t going quite so well I get depressed and begin wondering why I am even here. Then there are the little day to day exchanges like the one my friend had that bring me back to reality and remind me of my real job." pretty much sums up how every volunteer feels. Gotta hold on to the little things because the actions of one man can't change an entire country immediately.

You are doing such a positive thing in the world, it is great to see people doing positive work like you are doing. I am sure at times it is difficult and challenging but there are people out there that are very thankful and greatful.

I feel that you will be extremely blessed in life for the good that you are putting out in the world.

It is great to see this type of a blog highligted as a blog of interest.

I'm in the process of being medically cleared for Peace Corps service (HIV/AIDS education in sub-Saharan Africa), and you just brightened my day and left me even more excited to hurry up and graduate so I can go. Thanks for letting me volunteer vicariously through you in the meantime!

Hi Aaron, I wonder that this incidentis seen as delightful but a similar thing that happened to me is always seen as offensive when I recount it over here in England. To my mind it was just as innocent and endearing as in your story. In the North of England in the late 1970's, an elderly white man who had never seen a black person asked if he could touch my hand, when he did he was so delighted he smiled a huge smile and said Thankyou. I've always seen this as a welcome reaction to my difference..it's the begining of understanding.

So wonderful to find your blog! My very good friend Nancy is in Togo with the Peace Corps and I'd imagine you know her. If so, please pass along my hello. And I will continue to read your blog imagining she's had many of the same experiences.qgatq

What an experience, I wish that I was in Togo! The little girl, having the fact of racial and cultural difference drilled in her head, is realizing something that many adults do not. We are the same under the coloured skins, we are homo sapiens sapiens. Why can't those people understand? They feel they need the surperiority towards other people. and as globalization is pacing, these things will happen less and less, until one day all the people in the world admit that they are the same.

It's amazing how children can say the very right thing. It's incredible how the remark of this little girl is so true: we are all the same, whatever the color, the culture, the religion, well whatever the origin.

It's really nice to remember that when you see people from the same religion fighting each others in Irak, the kind of mess in Israel/palestine conflict, or what happenned in Rwanda, and nowaday in Darfur. We are all the same. And no need to talk about racism etc..

What this girl showed is incredible, she showed with her ignorence, that naturally we recognize that we are all the same. All the racism etc.. is a social disease.

Thanks so much for this naive point of view which is so true, and far more better than many mature views on humanity.

Good luck for your mission in Africa. As a moroccan, a person from africa, i really thank everyone who takes the time, the energy and the opportunity cost to go and change something there.

It's amazing how children can say the very right thing. It's incredible how the remark of this little girl is so true: we are all the same, whatever the color, the culture, the religion, well whatever the origin.

It's really nice to remember that when you see people from the same religion fighting each others in Irak, the kind of mess in Israel/palestine conflict, or what happenned in Rwanda, and nowaday in Darfur. We are all the same. And no need to talk about racism etc..

What this girl showed is incredible, she showed with her ignorence, that naturally we recognize that we are all the same. All the racism etc.. is a social disease.

Thanks so much for this naive point of view which is so true, and far more better than many mature views on humanity.

Good luck for your mission in Africa. As a moroccan, a person from africa, i really thank everyone who takes the time, the energy and the opportunity cost to go and change something there.

hello aaron in africa (i'm whitney in georgia...the states, not africa sadly) my dad told me about your blog that he came across while waiting for me to post a new one. you seem to be experiencing africa with openness and enthusiasm. i spent 3 weeks in south africa summer before last and loved it. i'll be reading. (oh, and may i recommend adding lord of the rings and the art of pilgrimage to your fabulous book collection?)

awesome. i live in memphis and we could totally use this sort of exchange for racial reconciliation. so simple and full of truth. i lived in dapaong for a little while. i loved togo. except there were these very large and ape-ish, taranatula-like spiders that infested our bags and the house we stayed in, and even crossed with us into benin. they were tan and furry, and had weird feeler/pinchers on their belly and i think even a beak, and they screamed when you tried to kill them (i'm not sure we ever successfully killed one). ever seen one? say hi to togo for me.

Aaron, love your blog, and thanks for all your hard work in Africa. My dear friend Sara is also in the Peace Corps (since August) and is stationed in Benin. Check out her blog when you have a spare minute (I sent her the link to yours!!) over in benin

Your blog was advertised on blogspot and Lome, Togo caught my eye. One of my friends (former students) Amy Patanasinth just started there a few months ago... Small world, really. If you see her, say hi!

Wow. My personal opinion, white, black, Asian skin are all the same. We're all the same beneath, and skin color should not be used to judge someone. It doesn't matter if you're White, Black or Asian because God created us to be the same, and we share the same DNA, hopes and dreams. We're all humans, regardless of race, religion or skin color, and we should work toward helping eachn other. I would help with the funds, but I don't have any money...sorry...

You are an inspiration! I've applied to Teach for America (funded by the Peace Corps) so hopefully I'll be helping close the acheivement gap here in the US.... I hope someday to help in Africa. Keep it up - you are doing such amazing things! Keep blogging - let the world know what you are doing and hopefully more will be inspired to help!!

Nice story and thanks for sharing. Like you, I am working for an INGO - ORBIS, and have been working in developing countries for the last 18 months, including Ethiopia, Uganda, Ghana, Nigeria, Libya, Bangladesh, Bulgaria, China, Vietnam, Peru, Jamaica, etc. I've seen the real world and encountered lots of incredible stories, especially in Africa. It's an amazing place with nice people. So I share the same feeling with you.

I am building my own blog here so check it out if you have time. I'll bookmark yours too.

Indeed kids state the truth in so obvious a fashion that makes us wonder, had we remained kids the world would have been much better place to live in.Keep up the good work that you are doing there and keep posting about it...

Congratulations on capturing such a huge reading audience. I was a PCV in Guinea from 2000-2002, teaching math. Like others who have commented, I have a great sense of familiarity with what you write and show in your videos. There are aspects of life in West Africa that are very hard to describe to Americans, such as what the markets and schools are like, and I plan to use your videos to help in those descriptions. I'm heartily in favor of any resources that give such a clear sense of living there. Good luck with the rest of your service!

nice blog aaron, sounds like a great experience you are having there. i have a blog too and yours inspired me to add the books i have read to my right column...it's true that when abroad in far-away places, book reading a quite the luxury. take care.

I think that is wonderful...i had a similar experience when I met my husbands family for the first time. I was sitting next to his aunt in her kitchen and she looked at me for a long period of time and then finally reached out and rubbed my legs. She has this look as if to say "it doesn't rub off, it is the same as mine". My husband is Italian, from the south. I am African-Haitian American, from Chicago.

Interesting story-Perhaps if we simply allow kids to openly question many of the accepted conclusions this world would be a really groovy place. Another point of interest is that it is almost the year 2007 and there are still questions of racial differences....

Beautiful story!, can I translated it into spanish and published on my blog?; of course with your name and the end. I am an argentinian girl and I would like to share your story in my own language. My best wishes for you and your family!.

Great stuff. It interests me how much race factors into our lives. My girlfriend, her daughter and I get weird looks still in public, even here in liberal southern california. We are a mixture of 3 distinct races. We are often amused by the attention given us. But, it does remind me of how important race is to most people.

It is great that you are doing this. I worked though not for Peace Corps) in the Congo (Zaire) during the relatively peaceful, then turbulent years from 1986-1993 and wish I'd had such technology available to keep an online journal of the times. Keep it up...great!

Hello. My name is Justin. I am here to visit your blog for the fifth time! I think that your blog is really cool because I don't think that there are many stories about the life of a Peace Corps. Worker. Anyways, please visit either one of my blogs at www.ancienthistorybuff.blogspot.com or www.sciencetheories.blogspot.com. Please post a message on the message board! Also, please visit my website at www.mybloggingexperience.4t.com. Thanks!

Nice to read your posts. I spent a few years in Ghana and all the memories came back the instant I saw your blog! Once we were hiking up the Afdjato Mountains which is very near to Togo and the border post was just 5 minutes away!

Your post about the little girl touched me a lot. The little black girl was confused as many are by the black/white dilemma. She touched the while skin and concluded there is no difference between black and white. If only the people, who still define people according to their skin color or ethnicity, could learn from here and try to experience things s before giving cheap judgments, our world would be a better place. As the prophet Mohamed, PBUH, has said more that 1400 years ago: "there is there is no difference between a white and a non-white (black) except that of virtue and good deeds.

I've just come back from Korea and had some similar experiences with kids. It's hard to explain how something so simple can make your day. I was trying to talk to one of the three year old kids I was teaching- and I asked him gently; 'Daniel, do you want to be a good boy, or a bad boy?' And little Daniel, stared back into my big blue eyes... and poked it with his finger. It hurt like hell, but it made me laugh. Thanks for sharing your stories- I would love to spend time volunteering in Africa. It must be such a rewarding experience!

Hey man, that´s just amazing what you have experienced since June 2005. I guess you will come home a better man. I haven´t had the time to read it all BUT what I read is just great. All the best woshes from a wrt but mild Dublin.

So glad Blogger featured you and looking forward to reading through your blog....I just crossed northern Africa a couple months ago including Benin and Togo...but only as a tourist so I can't wait to learn about your life and times there. I totally appreciate your story...what you have moments like that it touches your soul....I had a silimar experience in Thailand in a remote village where the women started placing their babies and toddlers next to me...when I asked why all the children were being put around me the interpreter said because the women want to show them a white person isn't a devil! I took it as a compliment though and every time I think of those small little pertrified faces looking up at me I smile.....once touch at a time...we need to keep connecting.

Great Blog! May your dedication prove to be an inspiration to those you are helping and those who are working with you as well.

The story is touching as others have commented in that through the eyes of a child we see that people are people regardless of the color of ones skin. It's what we accept as moral values and beliefs (or lack thereof) that shapes us as invidivuals and allows many people to dislike others because they are different from us based on race, creed, religious or gender beliefs.

If we can release ourselves from this fog that clouds our minds and work towards a goal of peace we may have a chance to make the world a better place.

It is heartbreaking to realize that even today after years of Peace Corp and other outreach support that Africa remains in such need in so many areas. Civil War, HIV/Aids, lack of clean water, food, medical facilities, education, etc. are tearing the Motherland apart.

Enjoy your journey and continue to share your experiences with the world!

Wow...your story reminds me of one from my own childhood. My mother loves to tell of the time when my sister and I were at the doctor's office in the waiting room, and my sister (3 years old at the time) kept staring up at one black gentleman who was waiting in the office as well. My mother was embarrassed when my sister asked, quite loudly, why he was so "dirty", for she had never seen a person with different colored skin before. I guess you could say we grew up "sheltered", but after reading your blog, it is fascinating to see the reverse happen in other cultures as well. Good luck with your mission, and keep posting!

Very interesting blog--watching the video reminded me of my travels as a flight attendant in this region.

I had a somewhat different experience. As a American black person (many say I have a light-skinned complexion), I experienced disgust and was even spat at as I walked down the streets. Apparently (and surprisingly to me!), American blacks are looked down upon by many (but not all) of our distant cousins on this continent.

Very interesting blog--watching the video reminded me of my travels as a flight attendant in this region.

I had a somewhat different experience. As a American black person (many say I have a light-skinned complexion), I experienced disgust and was even spat at as I walked down the streets. Apparently (and surprisingly to me!), American blacks are looked down upon by many (but not all) of our distant cousins on this continent.

Wow. Amazing. It is so true though. Racism is still so prominent in our world. That's why we are here! To wipe it out. Awesome blog. My blog has nothing compared to this, just a few entries about my thoughts. Keep it up!

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