Wednesday, August 05, 2009

They say third time’s the charm and it was for me in my attempt at making jam. And, oh, what a jam! I made possibly the best-ever apricot jam.

The first time I tried making jam was last summer. I had a big batch of bruised strawberries and so I made a strawberry jam, following the directions on the pectin box. I must not follow directions very well because what I ended up with was a thick gummy blob. The flavor was good but the texture was just wrong.

So traumatized by my first-foray into the jam-making world, I didn’t gather enough courage to try again until a few weeks ago. This time, I followed a friend’s instructions for freezer jam with a huge haul of sour cherries. But again, I failed, as I let the mixture boil too long. After the jam cooled in the jar what I had was a rock-solid piece of candy, which wasn't very appropriate for spreading on toast.

I am not one to give up, however, and last weekend when I saw a gorgeous display of apricots at the farmers’ market, I decided to try making jam one more time.

I asked the farmer for advice on making apricot jam, and she told me that the key to making jam was to not over think it. I'm certainly guilty of over thinking things, so that was wisdom I could use. I then asked her if she had any other advice and she said, “People who don’t use Sure-Jell are snobs!”

Well, that was not what I wanted to hear! I have no problem with Sure-Jell, but after my pectin disaster last summer I wanted my jam to have a softer set, so I asked her if it was possible to make a decent jam without it. “Of course,” she replied. “Just make sure you have enough sugar.
How much is enough sugar? I heard everything from a one-to-one ratio of sugar to uncooked fruit to a 3/4-to-one ratio of sugar to uncooked fruit. Wanting to keep my jam slightly tart, I went with the latter.

After slicing my apricots and removing the pits, I measured how much I had and then threw them in a large pot. I added 3/4 cup of sugar for every cup of sliced fruit and one tablespoon of lemon juice per cup of fruit. To later test for doneness, I place a plate in the freezer.

I placed the pot on a burner, turned the heat to medium low and stirred the mixture every few minutes. It became juicy. And then the fruit began to turn to mush. There was foam, but I just kept stirring. After about an hour, the mixture was like a thick sauce, with a few small chunks of fruit but for the most part soft and smooth.

Thinking that the jam looked good and not wanting it to get too overcooked, I took out my plate from the freezer and plopped a dollop of jam on it to see if it was ready. After a minute, I turned the plate to see if it ran, and the jam did. So I cooked it for five more minutes and then repeated the frozen-plate test. This time, the jam stayed solid. The jam was done.

I packed it into sterilized jars, putting a chopped chipotle with one teaspoon of adobo sauce into one of the jars for the most incredible spicy-sweet jam, and then put my jars in the refrigerator. And the next morning I had the most beautifully set, tart and fragrant apricot jam to put on my peanut-butter toast.

Now, I’m sure that there are more scientific methods out there that employ thermometers and timers, but I found this method worked fine for me. But I’m still just a beginner, so please let me know in the comments what tips you have for making jam, so we can all become better at this age-old preservation process!
Apricot jam
Ingredients:
1 pound of sliced apricots, pits removed (4 cups)
3 1/2 cups of sugar
4 tablespoons of lemon juice (about one lemon) plus zest

Method:
Place the apricots, sugar, lemon juice and zest in a pot, and add a couple of tablespoons of water.

Place a plate into the freezer.

Turn the heat to medium low, and stirring every five minutes or so, let the fruit cook. It will first get juicy with the fruit intact, and then the fruit will start to disintegrate. As it cooks, there will be foam on top, but just keep stirring, don’t worry about skimming it.

After about an hour, the jam will be about two or three shades darker and will be smooth and thick, with a few lumps here and there. When it coats the back of a spoon, take out the plate from the freezer and place a dollop of the jam on the plate. If it runs, cook it for five more minutes and then test it again. But if becomes solid, then the jam is done.

Place in a sterilized half-pint jar(s).

When it comes to room temperature, put on the lid and then place in the refrigerator. After a few hours it will be more solid and ready for eating.

Makes about one pint.

Note: If you want to jazz up the flavor, you can add chipotle chiles in adobo, cloves, a cinnamon stick or a vanilla bean while it cooks.

The key, that I’ve learned, is to not over cook it. But if you do, and the next day you find that you have a jar of rock-hard candy instead of jam, all is not lost! You can place the jar into a pot of water and let it come to a boil. The jam will heat up and become liquid, and then you can slowly add more water to it until it’s more runny. Try the freezer test again and then repack it. (This is how I eventually saved my sour-cherry jam).

Thankfully my mum and my grandma made jam a lot so I've learned from them. It seems to be a bit like bread, you cant really follow a recipe, its all by feel. Unfortunately I dont always have much luck either, I generally end up burning it when I walk off and do something else and come back to an incinerated saucepan full of black goo!

I have made so much jams & preserves this year, all without pectin; just sugar & lemon juice.. yes the end moment seems a little difficult, but it worked out just fine for me. I wanted pectin for the watermelon jelly becoz of the all the water it released.

after reading this, i think i will make some apricot jam. looks beautiful.

Great post! This week I also dove into this world--I have a fig bush and am making fig preserves because I have so many and even after sharing with the birds--I have to do something! The whole sterilize the jar thing scared me--and then boiling the jars once they are filled--but it worked--the jars make a popping sound when they are sealed. I bought the pectin also--but then just followed some 100 year old recipe I found on the net and did it with sugar and lemon juice...My dad who cans alot told me just to boil the jars after they are filled for five minutes- I did ten to make sure--it all turned out ok. If the top of the jar pops up--then that's when you know it didn't turn out--as long as they stay put--your canning was successful.

Well, I guess I am a jam "snob" because I never make jam with added pectin, just fruit and sugar with a little fresh lemon juice depending on the fruit used. I've been doing it this way for 10 summers now. I like the taste better without the added pectin. I like to taste the fruit more than the sugar.

For apricot, peach & plum jam I use 3/4 C sugar for each cup of crushed fruit. For other berries I use 2/3 C sugar for each cup of crushed berries. I think the berries have more natural pectin than the other fruits do so you can get away with using less sugar.

I made apricot jam a few weeks ago and cut back on the sugar a bit too much (2/3 C sugar to 1 C apricots) because I wanted it a bit tart. It still gelled and tastes great, but took longer to gel than usual and it was a little softer than it usually is too. I make about 8 half pints at a time and can my jam in a water bath canner.

I'll be doing a post on jam soon and will post the name of a really good book that I use as a resource. Can't think of the name right now.

Well done! I love making jam myself...my mom's been making jam since I've been a little girl - try tomato-jam...oo yummy! the only tip I have - my mom taught me that if you scoop off the foam, it removes the bit of sourness in the jam - depends on how you like it.. Have fun!

It looks wonderful - apricot jam is my favorite! I've canned for years, but just within the past few years have I tried jams. I've been very successful using Sure Jell Certo Premium Liquid Fruit Pectin following their enclosed instructions. So far I've made blueberry jam and hot pepper jelly and they were better than anything I've ever purchased. I've also just canned Bread & Butter Pickles for the first time. It was really very easy - I think you'd have fun with it.

I look forward to your email each week being a Texan living "downunder".

I am so glad that you gave us this one as I have an apricot tree which will be covered with fruit very soon. Usually the neighbors get most of them as I can't eat all of them. Now PLEASE, tell me what to do with my two bushels of lemons I picked yesterday!

I read the squash recipe and I got so homesick,but because I can't get yellow crook neck here, I made enchiladas and Mexican rice for dinner. No beans, as it is really hard to find pinto beans in Australia. Just keep writing. I feel like I know you so well, but that's how Texans are. We make "fast" friends over the tomatoes in the supermarket.

I have to add something else about jam making. If you don't want to use the boxed pectin, just add an apple or some apple peelings. Pectin is found in all fruit but the apple has the most and the boxed stuff is apple pectin. The apple is mild and won't change the flavor of the main fruit at all, just help it set. That's what our grandmothers did to make jelly and jams.

Aline--Now why have I never thought to pair peaches with rosemary? Outstanding!

Jennywenny--Oh, no! That sounds like it would be mess to clean up! But I agree, it's a very intuitive process.

Radish--Yep, perseverance is key!

Arlene--I'm keeping this in the refrigerator as I'm still not secure in my skills.

Melissa--I'm a convert and now I love it, too!

Whitney--I bet there will be--we just started seeing them in NY a couple of weeks ago.

Soma--Thank you! And you would definitely need pectin for a watermelon jam--so much water.

Mary--I'm not a Virgo, which is probably good for me because if I were I'd probably be even more of an overthinker!

Elizabeth--I agree--it's so delicious on English muffins. I love waking up to apricot jam!

Krulle--I will definitely try tomato jam! And thanks for the tip about the foam.

ToyLady--If I can do it, you definitely can do it!

Lisa--The chipotle version is wonderful--so smoky with a bit of heat. I put some on a pork chop and swooned!

MaryR in KY--I definitely want to make hot pepper jam when those come into season. And I've made refrigerator pickles before--so easy!

TBSamsel--I had no idea that Colorado was known for its apricots. I'll have to try them sometime.

Kayd--Happy to help. But I can't believe there aren't pinto beans in Australia. It seems the climate there is similar to our Southwest part of the states--surely they could grow there. And if I had two bushels of lemon I'd make lemonade, lemon pie, pickled lemons and lemon curd. And what a great tip about the apples!

I live in the TX panhandle, and we didn't have apricots this year! My Moms' back yard looks like a small orchard-full of apricot and peach trees, so I've really missed them this year!! But, I may have to (forgive me Lord) buy some and fix a jar or two!! I love your site!! I've always been too busy to learn computer stuff, but I LOVE your stories and recipes!! My husband works in the oilfield, and when it started slowing down a few months ago, we considered moving out of TX. But, when I started reading your site, it honestly made me pinch pennies even tighter, because, I knew I'd never be happy anywhere else--I'm tooooo much Texan! Yes, I'd be the one easy to spot in any other state, because I'd be the one with the cowboy boots on!ha! Thanks for reminding me how deeply devoted of a Texan that I really am!! AND, our families must have known somewhere down the line--the cooking, recipes, and all are too close to my upraising!!

I had an apricot jam moment a few weeks ago after watching Anna Olson on Food Network Canada make some and jumped right in.

I checked her recipe and felt like it called for way too much sugar( as I think your's does) and cut it in half. Used half as much pectin as she called for as well. Results were awesome. btw, I added a few ginger slices for flavour.

I think it would be far too sweet if I used all the sugar it called for.

Aline--Now why have I never thought to pair peaches with rosemary? Outstanding!

Jennywenny--Oh, no! That sounds like it would be mess to clean up! But I agree, it's a very intuitive process.

Radish--Yep, perseverance is key!

Arlene--I'm keeping this in the refrigerator as I'm still not secure in my skills.

Melissa--I'm a convert and now I love it, too!

Whitney--I bet there will be--we just started seeing them in NY a couple of weeks ago.

Soma--Thank you! And you would definitely need pectin for a watermelon jam--so much water.

Mary--I'm not a Virgo, which is probably good for me because if I were I'd probably be even more of an overthinker!

Elizabeth--I agree--it's so delicious on English muffins. I love waking up to apricot jam!

Krulle--I will definitely try tomato jam! And thanks for the tip about the foam.

ToyLady--If I can do it, you definitely can do it!

Lisa--The chipotle version is wonderful--so smoky with a bit of heat. I put some on a pork chop and swooned!

MaryR in KY--I definitely want to make hot pepper jam when those come into season. And I've made refrigerator pickles before--so easy!

TBSamsel--I had no idea that Colorado was known for its apricots. I'll have to try them sometime.

Kayd--Happy to help. But I can't believe there aren't pinto beans in Australia. It seems the climate there is similar to our Southwest part of the states--surely they could grow there. And if I had two bushels of lemon I'd make lemonade, lemon pie, pickled lemons and lemon curd. And what a great tip about the apples!

Anon--I'll have to try boiling the jars next time. And I can't wait until we get figs so I can make fig jam. Yum!

Farmer Jam--Ha! That was just one person's opinion--I don't think you're a snob! And I'll have to try it with 2/3 cup of sugar. Can't wait to hear the name of the book!

Tx Blue Eyed Bandit--That's how you can spot me in NYC--I'm always wearing my cowboy boots! And I heard there was little peach and apricot crop in Texas this year--that's a shame. Thanks for the kind words and good to hear y'all are staying put in Texas!

Tommy--I think we Southerners just like things sweeter than you as you've commented on my sugar quantities before! That said, if you can make it with a smaller amount, I'm all for that--I want to still taste the tart fruit. And the ginger does sound awesome.

First of all, love your blog! (native texan here, living in Portland, OR)

Several folks have chimed in on the topic of pectin, so I won't belabor the point. But, why use pectin when you don't have to? It requires that you use a lot more sugar, which in turn, means using less fruit. What's snobby about not wanting to use a ton (sometimes up to 7 cups) of sugar to make a a few pints of raspberry jam? I just came across a great book that doesn't rely on commercial pectin to make great jam (and no, I'm not getting a kick back!) :) called The Joy of Jams, Jellies, and Other Sweet Preserves: 200 Classic and Contemporary Recipes Showcasing the Fabulous Flavors of Fresh Fruits by Linda Ziedrich. She also has a great pickling book. http://www.amazon.com/Jams-Jellies-Other-Sweet-Preserves/dp/1558324062/ref=pd_sim_b_6

Apricot chipotle jam? Genius! I love that idea. I come from a long line of jam makers, but have only ever made one batch myself several years ago. I need to give it another whirl. I love apricot jam!

Also, I'm a Texan living in Australia like kayd above--and I agree, it is difficult to find pinto beans here. I've had to use borlotti beans which are similar to pinto beans, but not quite the same. =(

I love apricot jam, apricot anything really. I love the idea of chipotle in it and will get some apricots next trip to the market and give it a try. I also love the idea of using an apple instead of pectin, which I have never used, I use lemon juice.

I made strawberry jam and used Alice Waters recipe from Chezz Panisse (fruit). Sun-Dried Strawberry Jam.I didn't cook it in the sun, instead I put the jam in a very low oven for about 8 hours. Delicious!

I am a jam newbie...never made it. I'm considering buying a slew of pears at the farmer's market tomorrow from a farmer who has emailed me to tell me he has loads of them, and that might go into jam! I do love the idea of chipotle apricot jam, that sounds absolutely wonderful! Wish I knew where to get decent apricots in Dallas...if there is such a thing. Most are flavorless around here for some reason.

I'm a big fan of Pomona Pectin -- it's reliable, a good set, and gels based on a combination of two pectin agents, rather than a particular sugar/acid ratio, so you can sweeten the jam just to your taste. Added bonus is that you don't have to cook it that long to set, which leads to both a fresher-tasting jam, as well as a more manageable time frame when you're making ridiculous amounts.

This sounds not only delicious but easy enough for me, a total novice, to try. Apricot jam is one of my favorites and I especially enjoy eating it on peanut butter toast!

I live in Houston and my grandma used to make something called watermelon rind preserves. She passed away in May and I managed to not get her recipe and boy do I regret it. The consistency was a sort of syrup with chunks of rind and she would pour it over toast on a plate. Ohhh man was it ever yummy!! I would be so grateful if you (or any of your readers) had a tried and true recipe I could attempt!

Marjorie--Oh, let me know how it turns out for you! And I haven't tried using apples either, but plan to on my next batch of jam.

Alta--That's a shame about Big D apricots--you'd think with the peaches being so good from Texas the apricots would be as well. And give jam-making a try--it's wonderful to look at a jar and say to yourself, "I made this!"

Deena--80 lbs? WOW! I think my Whole Foods sells Pomona, perhaps I'll use that when I make some pepper jam.

Jen--I'm pretty sure my great-grandmother had a recipe for watermelon rind pickles--let me see if I can my hands on it and I'll post something.

I'm so glad to see you're still blogging! I first found you when looking up a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak - my husband's fave - and it's now my go-to recipe. A girlfriend of mine just made HM WW tortillas and I wanted to link back to the recipe from here I'd tried a couple of times. Anyway, your blog looks great! It's really taken off since I last stopped in. Keep up the good work. :)

I just got done reading your post from may 2008, how to render lard. Thank you so much!! I just had two pigs butchered and I have all this fat but no idea how to use it. Til now and it sounds so simple. I'm gathering up jars and what not to start today! So excited♥

Jenn, I have a recipe for watermelon rind preserves that I learned from my grandmother, and I have made them for many, many years. e-mail me at momcat@reachone.com and I'll send it to you, and anyone else that wants it.For those of you who haven't made pear preserves, I have an easy receipe for that too.Janell

I just found your blog and I love it already!I didn't read the other comments, so I don't know if this has been mentioned already, but have you ever tried Pomona's Universal Pectin? I swear by it for jams and jellies. It jells with any amount of sweetener.

I'm not real big on apricots, but dang that looks good. My sister and I made fig jam, raspberry-fig jam, and strawberry-fig jam this year (big fig crop from a couple of scrawny trees) and added a teaspoon of butter to each batch to cut down on the foam. Buddy, it worked like a charm.

My grandma used to make apricot jam every summer. I was spending every single summer with her and I have some memories of it. I really liked that she used to put the nuts from the pit in the jam. I was always asking her to save the pits for me because I like to crack and eat them, and she started putting them in the jam at some point. Whole. Maybe one out of 10 or out of 20 would be bitter, and I would spit it, but if they go in the jam, you can't really know. After the jam is made the best part still is to pick all the nuts in there with a teaspoon. The other thing she does is put cream of tartar in the jam at the end after it has reached a setting point I think. This prevents it from crystallizing when all you are using is sugar. Dani

Arlene and others inhibited from canning by concerns about botulism, I relate to and would like to assure by passing along what experts - FDA et al - say about botulism that makes it safe to can, even badly, the above recipe.

Botulism spores are present on almost all produce but only grow toxic in anaerobic, alkaline environments, hence the danger of improperly canned vegetables and meats, and even bottled oils to which you've added a sprig of some herb.

The worst able to grow in improperly canned acidic [below pH 4] environments is said to be mold, which, unlike botulism, is both visible to the naked eye AND nontoxic. (Penicillin, for one mold, is partial to citrus.)

Reportedly, as with hard cheeses, frugal cooks customarily scrape off the mold atop fruit preserves-gone-moldy and eat what's beneath - that's how safe if unappetizing, experts say it is to eat preserved fruits - but only fruits as commonly defined. Botanically defined fruits such as squash and pumpkin, for two, are NOT free of botulism risk when canned wrong.

I just made this apricot yam recipe and it turned out perfectly! It was also my first time making jam. Thanks for this recipe; it's was super easy and I will try other jams this way. I live in NM and just discovered your blog. Love it...

I just got 21 lbs. of apricots from Bountiful Baskets. I've never attempted making jam on my own, but have so many fond memories of making it with my mom years ago. I think I will spend tomorrow (Mother's Day) making it with my girls. Thanks for the inspiration!