NYFW: JASON WU SS16

Autumn palettes and formal styles were undercut by frayed edges everywhere at Jason Wu for SS16.

First Impressions

Wu took a serious turn this season, reimagining his typically feminine designs with a rougher edge. Colours were deeper, featuring terra cotta, charcoal, and forest green in addition to the standard black and white, while frayed edges made a major appearance. Also appearing throughout were wide utilitarian-style sashes, offering a more masculine touch to pieces like high-waisted pants and a floor-length cutout evening gown.

Frill-Seeker

For a collection marked by a departure toward severity, there were still plenty of frills – diaphonous layers fluttering off busts, hemlines, sleeves galore. Yet well-considered fabrics facilitated the balancing act between strong and soft. There was very little chiffon here, in favor of materials like thin snakeskin and a kind of lightweight burlap, both of which rippled with every footstep.

City Girl

Hair and makeup was no-nonsense: deep red lips and slicked-back hair for all, elevating the Jason Wu girl to boss status for SS16.