Comparing Torgiano Rosso Riserva and Chianti Classico Riserva

Two red
wines usually made from the same grapes, but produced in completely different
regions and territories, are among the main representatives of red wines in
Umbria and Tuscany

Umbria and Tuscany have in common the border separating them, and there are many
cultural, gastronomical and enological differences making unique these two
splendid regions of central Italy. Maybe it is the geographic vicinity to make
people believe the two regions are pretty the same, but it just takes a look at
the views of the respective territories - evocative and tranquil in both cases -
to understand their differences. Territories however having common qualities, in
particular from an agricultural point of view - in both regions are vines and
olive trees to color hills - but each of them keeps its own personality and its
own nature. Also from an enological point of view can be found evident
differences: whereas in Umbria the production of wine is divided between white
and red wines, Tuscany is mainly involved in the production of red wines. In
both regions, among the main representatives are found two red wines: Torgiano
Rosso Riserva in Umbria, Chianti Classico Riserva in Tuscany.

Torgiano Rosso Riserva

Among the main figures of Umbrian enology, one of the most important ones
certainly is Giorgio Lungarotti, not only an important figure for the rebirth
and development of Umbrian wine making, but also protagonist - together with
other figures - of the rebirth of Italian wines, in Italy and in the world. If
today Torgiano is considered one of the most important wine areas of Umbria and
of Italy, this mainly was thanks to Giorgio Lungarotti and to his efforts, he
believed on the history and the wine making possibilities of this evocative town
of central Umbria. Wines of Torgiano conquered their first important goal in
1968, when they reached Denominazione d'Origine Controllata status
(Denomination of Controlled Origin), and in 1990, when Torgiano Rosso Riserva
was promoted to the level of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e
Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin), the highest level
of the Italian quality system. Still today, Torgiano Rosso Riserva represents
one of the highest expressions of Umbrian enology.

At the base of this wine there is Sangiovese - one of the most common red
berried grapes in Umbria - which must be present for at least 70%, whereas the
remaining part, in case the producer decides not using 100% Sangiovese, must
exclusively be represented by grapes allowed in the territory of the province of
Perugia. The remaining part is generally represented by Canaiolo Nero, another
red berried grape very common in Umbria. The production of Torgiano Rosso
Riserva provides for an aging period of at least three years, of which at least
6 months in bottle. The aging of this wine is generally done both in barrique
and in cask. Producers generally prefer to age Torgiano Rosso Riserva in both
containers, that is by aging part of the wine in barrique and part in cask. The
long aging in wood - which sometimes is longer than three years - gives the wine
a higher smoothness and roundness, therefore making less aggressive the typical
acidity of Sangiovese.

Chianti Classico Riserva

Chianti Classico certainly is one of the most renowned and famous wines of
Tuscany, as well as being one of the wines having the longest documented history
of Italy. Chianti Classico has also the record of having the oldest production
disciplinary of Italy. On 24th September, 1716, Grand Duke Cosimo III de' Medici
issued a law in which was defined the production area of Chianti, as well as
founding a special institution of control in order to avoid frauds. Another
important date for Chianti Classico was 1840, when Baron Bettino Ricasoli
proposed the famous formula for the composition of Chianti: Sangiovese, Canaiolo
Nero, Malvasia Bianca and, few years later, Trebbiano Toscano. Bettino Ricasoli
also introduced the so called technique of governo alla Toscana, a
practice consisting in adding to the wine, at the end of the fermentation, a
must produced with dried grapes. This practice - today scarcely adopted - is
used to strengthen the body of a wine.

The old formula of Ricasoli is today scarcely used, while favoring an almost
exclusive use of red berried grapes. Still today Sangiovese represents the main
grape of Chianti Classico - present for at least 80% - to which are added, for
the remaining part, grapes recommended or authorized in the area, of which
Canaiolo Nero and Colorino for autochthonous varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot for international varieties. Despite the production disciplinary provides
for the use of many grapes, some Chianti Classicos are exclusively produced with
Sangiovese, whereas in other cases it is preferred adding to Sangiovese the
traditional Canaiolo Nero. Chianti Classico Riserva - the style to which belongs
the wine of our comparative tasting - must age, according to the production
disciplinary, for at least 24 months, of which at least 3 months in bottle. Also
in this case, the aging is done both in barrique and in cask. These techniques
are usually used together, that is by aging part of the wine in barrique and
part in cask.

Wines of the Tasting

The production disciplinary of the respective wines allow the use of many grape
varieties, of which Sangiovese represents, in any case, the main grape. The
wines of our comparative tasting are produced with the same grapes, of course
produced in their respective areas of origin, and both aged in wood. The first
wine of our comparative tasting is Lungarotti's Torgiano Rosso Riserva Rubesco
Vigna Monticchio, produced with 70% Sangiovese and 30% Canaiolo Nero, part
aged in cask and part in barrique for 12 months, to which follow 3 years of
aging in bottle. The second wine of the comparative tasting in Capannelle's
Chianti Classico Riserva, mainly produced with Sangiovese and the remaining part
with Canaiolo Nero and Colorino, aged for 18 months in cask. The wines will be
selected according to the vintages currently commercialized by respective
producers and served at the temperature of 18°C (65°F) in two ISO tasting
glasses.

Appearance Analysis

The main grape of Torgiano Rosso Riserva and Chianti Classico is Sangiovese, a
grape characterized by a coloring quality which can be defined as average.
Canaiolo Nero is traditionally used together with Sangiovese, contributing with
a higher roundness, body and a good quantity of color. Canaiolo Nero is a grape
of ancient origins - it is believed it existed since Etruscan times - and it is
also mentioned in the famous book of Pietro De' Crescenzi Ruralium
Commodorum Libri (Profits in Agriculture), written in the beginning of 1300s,
times when Canaiolo Nero was considered as a grape having noble wine making
qualities. The color of Torgiano Rosso Riserva and Chianti Classico is mainly
determined by the qualities of Sangiovese, therefore in these wines can be
observed an moderate transparency and intense ruby red color with nuances
showing, sometimes and since the moment of commercialization, a garnet red
color.

The appearance analysis of our comparative tasting starts from Lungarotti's
Torgiano Rosso Riserva Rubesco Vigna Monticchio. By holding the glass tilted
over a white surface, we will observe the wine at the point of greater thickness
- at the base of the glass - where it will be appreciated a moderate
transparency and a brilliant and intense ruby red color. Let's now observe the
wine at the edge of the glass, at the point of lower thickness: we will observe
a garnet red color. Let's now pass to the appearance analysis of the second wine
of our comparative tasting: Capannelle's Chianti Classico Riserva. By holding
the glass tilted over a white surface, also in this case we will observe a
moderate transparency, however lower than the previous wine, and a brilliant and
intense ruby red color. In this wine nuances are characterized by a ruby red
color.

Olfactory Analysis

Both Torgiano Rosso Riserva and Chianti Classico Riserva are aged for a long
time in cask, as well as in barrique, a period in which the wine develops pretty
evident and important tertiary aromas. The aging does not however eliminates the
olfactory qualities of Sangiovese and Canaiolo Nero grapes which, in both cases,
mainly express aromas of plum and black cherry, as well as blueberry, blackberry
and raspberry. Among aromas recalling flowers, violet certainly is the most
characteristic one, and - marginally - in these wines can also be perceived
cyclamen and rose. Time and aging in wood give these wines tertiary aromas
generally expressing sensations of vanilla, leather, cocoa, chocolate, tar and
licorice, as well as spicy aromas of black pepper, cinnamon, mace, anise and
pink pepper. In these wines are also found balsamic aromas such as menthol and
eucalyptus.

Let's start the analysis of the olfactory profile of the first wine of our
comparative tasting: Lungarotti's Torgiano Rosso Riserva Rubesco Vigna
Monticchio. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, we
will do the first smell in order to evaluate opening aromas. From the glass will
be perceived aromas of black cherry, plum and violet, three aromas which are
typically found in wines where Sangiovese is the main grape. After having
swirled the glass, we will do a second smell in order to complete the olfactory
profile of the wine with blueberry, raspberry, blackberry, vanilla, cyclamen,
cocoa, tobacco and cinnamon, as well as a pleasing balsamic touch of menthol.
Let's now pass to the evaluation of Capannelle's Chianti Classico Riserva. Also
in the opening of this wine can be appreciated aromas of black cherry, plum and
violet. After having swirled the glass, the aromas of the wine will be completed
by blackberry, blueberry, vanilla, tobacco, licorice, cinnamon and chocolate,
also in this case followed by balsamic aromas of menthol.

Gustatory Analysis

Sangiovese is a grape producing wines with an appreciable acidity. For this
reason, Canaiolo Nero is traditionally used with this grape in order to
smooth this characteristic, a common choice before the introduction of
Merlot in Italy, today among the main companions of Sangiovese. Crispness of
Sangiovese is also smoothed by the effects of aging in cask as well as
the effects of alcohol. The attack of these wines will therefore be
characterized by an appreciable acidity promptly balanced both by roundness
given by wood and Canaiolo Nero, as well as by alcohol. The aging in wood also
gives a fuller body, a quality increased by the role of Canaiolo Nero.
Astringency in these wines is never excessive, both because of the typical
quality of Sangiovese as well as because of the effects of the aging in wood,
therefore the wines will be well balanced, however expressing a good body and a
perceptible astringency.

Let's proceed with the evaluation of the first wine of our comparative tasting:
Lungarotti's Torgiano Rosso Riserva Rubesco Vigna Monticchio. The attack of the
wine expresses an appreciable astringency, followed by a pleasing roundness
given by the aging in wood and alcohol. It should also be noticed the pleasing
crispness produced by acidity, fundamental for reaching a good balance in this
wine. Also the attack of the second wine of the comparative tasting,
Capannelle's Chianti Classico Riserva, is characterized by a good astringency -
more intense than the previous wine - also in this case balanced both by the
good and pleasing roundness, as well as by alcohol. Also in this case acidity
contributes to reaching a good balance of the wine. In both wines the
correspondence to the mouth is very good, in particular plum and black cherry,
as well as persistence.

Wines of the Month

Score legend

Fair Pretty Good Good Very Good Excellent Wine that excels in its category Good value winePrices are to be considered as indicative. Prices may vary according to the countryor the shop where wines are bought

Aglianico del Vulture La Firma 2006

Cantine del Notaio (Basilicata, Italy)

Grapes: Aglianico

Price: € 32.00

Score:

Aglianico del Vulture La Firma shows an intense ruby red color and nuances
of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean,
pleasing, refined and elegant aromas that start with hints of blackberry,
black cherry and plum followed by aromas of violet, vanilla, blueberry,
pink pepper, chocolate, mace, leather, tobacco and menthol. The mouth has
good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however balanced by
alcohol, full body, intense flavors, pleasing roundness. The finish is very
persistent with long flavors of blackberry, black cherry and plum.
Aglianico del Vulture La Firma ages for 12 months in cask followed by 12
months of aging in bottle.

Food Match: Game, Roasted meat, Stewed and braised meat, Hard cheese

Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito 2006

Antonelli San Marco (Umbria, Italy)

Grapes: Sagrantino

Price: € 25.00 - 375ml

Score:

This Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito shows a dark ruby red color and
nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean,
pleasing, refined and elegant aromas that start with hints of blackberry,
black cherry and violet followed by aromas of plum, blueberry, vanilla,
tobacco, chocolate, pink pepper, cinnamon, licorice and menthol. The mouth
has good correspondence to the nose, a sweet and tannic attack, however
balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, pleasing roundness. The
finish is persistent with flavors of blackberry, plum and black cherry.
This Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito ages for 12 months in cask followed
by 16 months of aging in bottle.

Food Match: Fruit desserts, Confectionery, Hard cheese

Sagrantino di Montefalco Chiusa di Pannone 2004

Antonelli San Marco (Umbria, Italy)

Grapes: Sagrantino

Price: € 36.00

Score:

Sagrantino di Montefalco Chiusa di Pannone shows an intense ruby red color
and nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense,
clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas that start with hints of
blackberry, plum and black cherry followed by aromas of blueberry, violet,
vanilla, tobacco, chocolate, leather, mace, pink pepper and menthol. The
mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however
balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is
very persistent with long flavors of blackberry, plum and black cherry.
Sagrantino di Montefalco Chiusa di Pannone ages for 18 months in cask, 3
months in cement tanks and for 2 years in bottle.

Food Match: Game, Roasted meat, Stewed and braised meat, Hard cheese

Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito 2005

Adanti (Umbria, Italy)

Grapes: Sagrantino

Price: € 33.00 - 500ml

Score:

This Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito shows a deep ruby red color and
nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense,
clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas that start with hints of
blackberry, black cherry and dried violet followed by aromas of plum,
blueberry, vanilla, tobacco, chocolate, cinnamon, licorice, lavender, mace,
pink pepper and menthol. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a
sweet and tannic attack, however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense
flavors, pleasing roundness. The finish is persistent with flavors of
blackberry, black cherry and plum. This Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito
ages for 24 months in cask.

Food Match: Hard cheese, Wild berries tarts

Sagrantino di Montefalco

Adanti (Umbria, Italy)

Grapes: Sagrantino

Price: € 23.00

Score:

This Sagrantino di Montefalco shows an intense ruby red color and nuances
of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean,
pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of blackberry,
black cherry and violet followed by aromas of plum, blueberry, vanilla,
juniper, chocolate, cinnamon, tobacco, pink pepper, leather and menthol.
The mouth has excellent correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and
however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, agreeable. The
finish is very persistent with long flavors of blackberry, black cherry and
plum. This Sagrantino di Montefalco ages for 28 months in cask followed by
12 months of aging in bottle.

Food Match: Game, Roasted meat, Stewed and braised meat, Hard cheese

Barbera d'Alba 2007

Ca' Brusà (Piedmont, Italy)

Grapes: Barbera

Price: € 6.50

Score:

This Barbera d'Alba shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby
red, little transparency. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and
refined aromas that start with hints of cherry, plum and violet followed by
aromas of blueberry, chocolate, vanilla and menthol. The mouth has good
correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however balanced by
alcohol, good body, intense flavors, pleasing crispness. The finish is
persistent with flavors of cherry, plum and blueberry. This Barbera d'Alba
ages for 6 months in barrique followed by 6 months of aging in bottle.

Barolo Vigna d'Vai 2004

Ca' Brusà (Piedmont, Italy)

Grapes: Nebbiolo

Price: € 20.00

Score:

Barolo Vigna d'Vai shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of garnet
red, moderate transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and
refined aromas which start with hints of cherry, plum and violet followed
by aromas of vanilla, chocolate, mace, cinnamon, leather and menthol. The
mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however
balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, pleasing crispness. The
finish is persistent with flavors of cherry and plum. Barolo Vigna d'Vai
ages for 15 months in barrique, 10 months in cask and 12 months in bottle.

Food Match: Game, Roasted meat, Stewed and braised meat, Hard cheese

Friuli Grave Chardonnay Vis Terrae 2007

Antonutti (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy)

Grapes: Chardonnay

Price: € 12.00

Score:

Friuli Grave Chardonnay Vis Terrae shows a brilliant golden yellow color
and nuances of straw yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals intense,
clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of pear, banana
and plum followed by aromas of apple, grapefruit, passion fruit, praline
and vanilla. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack
and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The
finish is persistent with flavors of banana, apple and plum. A part of
Friuli Grave Chardonnay Vis Terrae ferments and ages in barrique.

Food Match: Stuffed pasta, Stewed fish, Roasted fish

Friuli Grave Merlot Vis Terrae 2004

Antonutti (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy)

Grapes: Merlot

Price: € 12.00

Score:

Friuli Grave Merlot Vis Terrae shows an intense ruby red color and nuances
of garnet red, little transparency. The nose denotes intense, clean,
pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of black currant, plum
and black cherry followed by aromas of blueberry, dried violet, vanilla,
tobacco, chocolate and menthol. The mouth has good correspondence to the
nose, a tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense
flavors, pleasing roundness. The finish is persistent with flavors of black
currant, black cherry and plum. Friuli Grave Merlot Vis Terrae ages in
barrique for 18 months.

Food Match: Roasted meat, Stewed and braised meat, Hard cheese

Pinot Grigio Valparadiso 2009

Fattori (Veneto, Italy)

Grapes: Pinot Gris

Price: € 15.00

Score:

Pinot Grigio Valparadiso shows a brilliant greenish yellow color and
nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose denotes intense,
clean, pleasing and refined aromas that start with hints of pear, banana
and peach followed by aromas of citrus fruits, apple, broom and mineral.
The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however
balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is
persistent with flavors of pear, banana and peach. Pinot Grigio Valparadiso
ferments in steel tanks and cask.

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