Japan is a consistent touchstone for Daniel Corrigan and Chelsea Hansford at Simon Miller, but the results aren’t the stereotypical, Japanese-y minimalism you might expect. There’s certainly a Zen vibe in their earth-toned knits and separates, and the silhouettes are relatively simple and oversize. But the Simon Miller of 2017 is more about rich fabrications than anything else—even denim.

The designers recently took a train from the northern tip of Japan all the way south, and at one point they found themselves surrounded by the rolling green hills and villages of Yamagata. They left with a fresh craving for “rocky, mossy” textures and shades of green, terracotta, and brown. Sage hammered silk evoked moss, while a crinkled white nylon looked jagged from afar; up close it was light as air. Another standout texture was a surprisingly delicate perforated leather. “We’re trying to expand our leather a little, but in a spring way,” Hansford explained. The paper-thin leather slip dresses and camisoles were the most body-conscious pieces in the lineup; the more forgiving, sacklike dresses didn’t resonate quite as much. A waist-defining silhouette feels a lot fresher for Spring, and the straight-leg, mid-rise jeans on deck should help with that. They were happily non-trendy—not flared, not wide-legged, not acid-washed or patched-up. Denim isn’t the main event at Simon Miller anymore, but their jeans are still some of the most tempting out there.