The SLG3000 is a small PCB which allows you to display CRT'esque scanlines on VGA CRTs, LCDs or Plasmas displays. The SLG3000 has a VGA input and a VGA output connector, a potentionmeter to adjust the scanline density and a few dip switches to adjust to the source signal's sync polarity. An on/off switch can be attached using screw terminals.

Jochen's offering transparent and black plexi casings starting march 2011. See pages 14+ in this thread for details. The cases are EUR 15 plus shipping. Readily assembled SLG3000 units are available as well for a little surcharge.

TECHNICAL FAQ

- Which sources will the SLG3000 work with directly ?

Everything that outputs VGA with a scanrate of 31khz or higher. This includes videogame systems like the Dreamcast or the XBox360 or emulation PCs with a standard graphics adapter.

- What about 480p from component outputs ?

If you have systems like the XBox 1, GameCube or PS2 you can transcode the signal from 480p component to VGA before feeding it into the SLG3000. Transcoders like these include the Neoya X2VGA or converters from Audio Authority or Kramer. A cheap (and good) one is the Lenkeng PSP scaler LKV7000.

- What about 480p from HDMI outputs ?

If you have a nettop for emulation which only has a HDMI output (or a system like the PS3) you can use a HDMI to VGA converter like the HDFury to feed the SLG3000.

- What about 240p or 480i from classic videogame systems ?

To "scanline" those you need an deinterlacer/upconverter/scaler between the source and the SLG3000. Refer to http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/ for available machines. Confirmed to be working with the SLG3000 are:

- DVDO processors like the iScan Pro, Ultra, HD, Vp30 or Edge (Edge only with additional HDFury)- Cinemateq processors like the Picture Optimizer (needs a little work with a sync inverter)- Micomsoft's XRGB series of processors- Faroudja-based processors like the Videon Omega One or the Holo3DGraph capture card.- HDBoxPro (and clones)

It looks that way. Seems to be the more standard with crt television so that pans out.

The problem is that I don't think it's a transcoder device at all which is a shame because resolutions boosted by x3, x4 would do a great deal to make the scanlines more authentic like a true native display. I'm just glad this is the closest we can get so far.

I didn't know SailorSat was on that board. Too bad I don't have a german to english translator outside of google acting funny.

Yeah you might be right on that. I was so used to running custom overlays with my own RGB or "fake" patterns on scaled images and they were maxed on bilinear filtering. I figured if you were to use a connection of lower grade then VGA (component might be suitable), it would add the right effect needed to keep it as natural as possible.

Kingbuzzo: I took a second look at that photo album and concluded the RGB pattern is typical aperture grille. Good thing too because it maintains the Phosphor effects to make it convincing.

I just reminded myself that I could probably use this for Bangai-O and MvC2 which I asked about awhile back. Too sweet!

According to the German text it's a simple analog device. It just switches every second line to black, very simple but effective, if you don't mind, that it won't look like real 15kz scanlines.

Switching every other line to black is what the XRGB does as well I believe, but why wont this look like real 15khz scanlines? I am talking on a CRT monitor of course.

I was talking more about LCD/Plasma there. 31khz scan lines and 15khz scan lines do look very different on CRTs though. On a CRT it can look like 15khz scan lines. But this depends vastly on your CRT. Good 31khz/VGA CRTs have awful scan lines, as their focus is on having a crisp, very sharp and detailed picture, those are called grade A or class A tubes. While arcade Cabs tend to have class B tubes. For low res 2D those class B tubes look better to most people.In the end it's just a matter of taste, it's a little bit like CD (VGA/DVI) and Vinyl (15khz)...

According to the German text it's a simple analog device. It just switches every second line to black, very simple but effective, if you don't mind, that it won't look like real 15kz scanlines.

Switching every other line to black is what the XRGB does as well I believe, but why wont this look like real 15khz scanlines? I am talking on a CRT monitor of course.

I was talking more about LCD/Plasma there. 31khz scan lines and 15khz scan lines do look very different on CRTs though. On a CRT it can look like 15khz scan lines. But this depends vastly on your CRT. Good 31khz/VGA CRTs have awful scan lines, as their focus is on having a crisp, very sharp and detailed picture, those are called grade A or class A tubes. While arcade Cabs tend to have class B tubes. For low res 2D those class B tubes look better to most people.In the end it's just a matter of taste, it's a little bit like CD (VGA/DVI) and Vinyl (15khz)...

In other words NANAO MS9-29T > everything

A scanline is a thick blank space between displayed lines of graphics, correct. So an XRGB connected to any CRT displaying a 240P image will have every other line of its 640x480 resolution not display anything. Isn't that the same as the cathode electron canon skipping that line when making it pass across the screen, just like an arcade cab would when displaying native content.

So where is the difference exactly? I dont understand why A and B type monitors can make a difference in areas where nothing is being displayed. Do you rather mean that the displayed lines are more blurred on arcade monitors whereas being too sharp on a computer monitor?

Older 15khz CRTs make the actually visible lines bloom a bit, which causes the visible lines to appear thicker than the (black) "scanlines". On the LCD you don't get blooming, so the active lines and the black lines have the same thickness. To compensate for this, you choose 50% (or similar) scanlines, but it's not quite the same...

31khz CRT tend to bloom less, so scanlines appear stronger on those.

Unless you use very high resolutions to emulate a 240p picture (e.g. 1200p), darkening every 2nd line on a 480p picture is the best method to "emulate" scanlines.

I see, well ignorance is bliss as they say, games look fantastic enough on the CRT I am using, certainly worlds better than anything I can get on a LCD. A straight CRT monitor has its advantages in that it comes in a easy to carry container whereas arcade monitors are naked if I am not mistaken, so you have to find a big arse cabinet to put them in. Not to mention that even if I did get a arcade monitor I would have to ditch that XRGB and look for a reverse interface.

And of course, that CRT monitor cost me the exact sum of nothing, you cant beat free, certainly not when it looks this good.

I'm waiting for the day we can emulate proper scanlines including shadow mask. Add to that a VP which can simulate very fine bloom without input-lag and I'm sure the results would get pleasing enough to get rid of the bulky CRT without too much remorse.

I guess 4096 x 2160 is a start...(but I don't know if it's enough to simulate a detailed shadow mask)

HI @ all!Im Winni, the technical developer of this device.I v had some probs with the f~~~~~ confirmationcode, but here I am!If anyone has a question, technical, I would try to answer.Jochen and I are ready to start the produktion of this amazing little device.To prevent any malfunction, I would be happy to hear (read) your wishes and demands.At this time you all can have an effekt to the details of developing.Friendly regards from GermanyWinfried

1. (already suggested) Use female VGA connectors on both sides of the unit.

2. (also already suggested by mail) - do the power connector as a standard molex connector just like on the UVC. For people with cabs this will avoid having to use another external AC adapter and for those who need to get an AC adapter anyway, it doesn't matter, since those with Molex connectors are easily available as well. As seen here:

3. Nothing too special, more of a luxury problem You decided for 0/25/50/75/100% scanlines via dip switches now, right ? I already hear people complaining that one setting's too weak while the next is too strong, simply because they're used to the inbetweens from other devices. What do the dips do ? Enable and disable various resistors I guess ? I would add ONE poti before or after the dips to set the "100% level". One could argue that a poti could replace the dips completely, but I feel safer with using dips than with turning a poti often. If you're going for a encased PCB, the poti could be added inside the case while the dips would be accessable outside.

I was wondering if the dip switch setting is the only one being considered to this? I had some thoughts of a dial that can be used for adjusting the scanline quality manually rather then pre-sets which some people are complaining about.