Prices, promotions, styles, and availability may vary. Our local stores do not honor online pricing. Prices and availability of products and services are subject to change without notice. Errors will be corrected where discovered, and Lowe's reserves the right to revoke any stated offer and to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions including after an order has been submitted.

Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the end slats (A) and back slats (B) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). Drill two pocket-holes at both ends of each part on the rough face (Project Diagram, Drawing 1).

Step 2

Cut the legs (C) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List). Place the end slats on 1-3/8-inch-thick spacers (we used 1-3/8-inch dowels) and slide the slats together to fully engage the tongues into the grooves. Add glue to the ends of the slats and position the leg so the leg top is even with the tongue of the top board. Drive 1-1/2-inch pocket-hole screws through the pocket-holes into the legs (Project Diagram, Drawing 1).

Good to Know

Measure the combined height of the five slats next to the leg and at the free end. If necessary, squeeze the slats together at the free end with a clamp to make the measurements equal.

Step 3

Apply glue to the opposite ends of the slats and position a second leg with the top end flush with the upper slat tongue. Drive the pocket-hole screws to join the slats to the leg. Repeat the previous step and this one to make a second end assembly.

Step 4

Using a procedure similar to making the end assemblies, place 7/8-inch-thick spacers (we used 7/8-inch dowels) under the back slats. Fit the tongues into the grooves of the boards, and apply glue to the ends of the slats. Pocket-screw the back slats to the back legs of the end-assemblies so the inside faces of the back slats and the back legs are flush (Project Diagram, Drawing 1).

Step 1

Measure the inside width of the base. Cut the frame fronts/backs (D) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). With the base on its back, apply waterproof glue and position the frame backs on the inside of the base back. Align the top edge of the upper frame back with the top of the upper slat and the bottom edge of the lower frame back with the bottom edge of the bottom slat (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). Drill countersunk pilot holes and drive the 2-1/2-inch deck screws.

Good to Know

For a sturdy assembly, measure each part and verify the dimension as you cut it to length.

Step 2

Flip the assembly face down and fasten the frame fronts to the end assembly front legs (Project Diagram, Drawing 2).

Step 3

Measure the distance between the frame fronts and backs, and cut the frame ends (E) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). Drill two pocket-holes in each frame end. Fasten the frame ends to the frame fronts/backs (D) with 2-inch pocket-hole screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 2).

Step 4

Measure the distance from the top edge of the upper frame front to the bottom edge of the lower frame front and cut the divider (F) to length. With the base/frames assembly face-down, center the divider on the frame fronts (D). Drill countersunk pilot holes through the frame fronts and into the divider and secure with screws.

Step 1

Stand the planter upright and cut the tray support (G) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). Center the support on the length of the frame fronts/backs (D) and align the rear end of the support with the outside face of the upper back slat (B). Drill countersunk pilot holes through the support and into the frames and secure with deck screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 3).

Step 2

To add the tray slats, first mark a line down the center of the tray support (G) and cut the wide tray slats (H) and narrow tray slats (I) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List).

Step 3

Align the front and back wide slat ends with the tray support centerline, and position them so the outside edges align with the ends of the tray support. The ends of the slats will slightly overhang the outside face of the side slats. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the slats and into the tray support and the frame ends (E), and drive 1-1/2-inch deck screws. Space the narrow slats evenly between the wide slats (Project Diagram, Drawing 3).

Step 1

Cut the box front and back (J) and box ends (K) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). Glue and clamp the box parts in position so they rest on top of the legs slightly and overhang them. Drill 1/8-inch pilot holes through the box front and box back. Fasten the parts to the tray support (G), the edges of the wide tray slats (H), and the box ends (K) with stainless-steel trim-head screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).

Step 2

Cut the box end lower trim (L) and box front and back lower trim (M) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List). Glue and position the end trim with the ends even with the outside faces of the box front and box back (J) and the lower edges 1/8 inch below the lower edges of the box ends (K). Drill pilot holes and fasten the end trim to the box ends with stainless-steel trim-head screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).

Step 3

Glue and position the front lower trim and back lower trim (M) with the ends flush with the outside faces of the box end lower trim (L) and the lower edges 1/8 inch below the lower edges of the box front (J) and box back (J), and secure with stainless-steel trim-head screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).

Step 4

Cut the box front and back upper trim (N) and box end upper trim (O) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List). Glue and position the parts on the top edge of the box with the inside face of the parts even. Drill countersunk pilot holes, and fasten the upper trim to the box front and box back with 2-1/2-inch deck screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).

Step 2

Lay one door frame on your work bench with the pocket-holes facing up. Apply a bead of exterior wood glue to the frame. Lay the first slat (R) on the frame with the groove edge even with the outside edge of the bottom of the door frame (Q). Nail the door slat to the frame with 1-1/4-inch galvanized finish nails (Project Diagram, Drawing 5).

Good to Know

As you place and fasten the slats, make sure the grooves are fully seated on the tongues, that the slat ends are aligned with the outside edges of the door stiles (P), and that the assembly is square.

Step 3

Add the remaining slats, if the tongue of the upper door slat protrudes beyond the upper door stile, trim off the tongue with a utility knife, making several light passes. Build the second door in the same manner.

Good to Know

When installing doors (or the sides), the tongue edge of the slats faces up for a reason. If the groove edges were on top, moisture could collect in the grooves.

Step 4

To mark the hinge locations, place the planter on its back and position the doors in the openings with the lower edges of the door and the divider (F) aligned. Using a square and pencil, mark lines on the door stiles (P) and front legs (C) even with the lower edges of the upper door rails (Q) and the upper edges of the lower door rails (Q).

Step 5

Position the hinges on the door stiles (P), aligning the top edge of the upper hinge with the upper pencil mark and the bottom edge of the lower hinge with the lower pencil mark. Using the screw holes in the hinges as guides, mark screw locations on the door stiles. Repeat this procedure on the front legs. Drill pilot holes and screw the hinges to the doors and legs. Turn the planter upright and check that the doors swing freely.

Step 6

Drill screw holes for the pulls (Project Diagram, Drawing 5), and install the pulls centered on the width of the door stiles. Fasten magnetic catches to the bottom edge of the upper frame front (D) and the catch strikes to the backs of the doors (Project Diagram, Drawings 3 and 5).

Step 3

Line the inside of the planter tray with a food-grade plastic sheathing, staple the liner in place to protect the wood surfaces from coming in contact with the soil. A handheld staple gun and 1/4-inch staples will hold the material in place. Fold the liner so it lays on the top edges of the box front/back and sides (J, K) and secure the plastic with more staples, and trim the plastic flush with the outside face of the box.

Step 4

Inside the plastic liner where the tray slats slope down to the box ends, make a series of small slits in the plastic, this will allow extra moisture in the soil to drain.

Step 5

Re-hang the doors and re-install the magnetic catches, strikes, and door pulls and re-secure the upper trim pieces. The planter is ready to be moved into position, filled with soil, and planted with vegetables or ornamental plants.