Cooking On Charcoal

Four Recipes Begging To Be Cooked On Charcoal

We know what you're thinking: cooking on charcoal? Barbecues? But summer's over! Well, spoil sport, this one's for you then. The fearless among us will persevere. We will flip the bird to autumn. We will continue grilling our meat.

After all, when has British weather ever stopped you from enjoying yourself?

And so, now that's done, we've gathered four recipes from London restaurants that are simply begging to be barbecued, with expert tips from their chefs on how to get that smoky flavour you crave even in the depths of despair... er, winter.

1. Sweet Juicy Jerk Lamb

Rudie's

"In Jamaica, jerk is always cooked over charcoal as it imparts the optimum amount of flavour and smokiness for juicy, tender food. It’s a labour of love, so using anything else is simply cheating and less satisfying," insists Jamaican restaurant Rudie's co-founder, Matin Miah.

The key to barbecuing good jerk at home? "Buy the best charcoal you can find, be patient in lighting and getting the charcoal to the right temperature (no flame, just simmering white coal) before starting to grill," says Miah. "Cook on slow indirect heat by putting the charcoal on one side and the food on the other – only finish off/colour on direct heat."

Expert tip: Use a lid and soaked wood chips, if you have any, to get the real smoky jerk flavour (but don’t overdo it on the smoke!).

Method:
1. Rub the steak all over liberally with the jerk marinade, into all of the nooks and crannies.
2. Clingfilm the steak tightly and leave refrigerated for at least 24 hours, preferably for 48 hours.
3. Cook the steak (ideally directly in the drum) at a medium heat and maximum smoke for 20-25 mins, until medium rare.
4. Rest, and then tuck in!

2. Shellfish Stew

"The intense, dry heat from burning charcoal quickly sears meat and caramelises it, creating a charred crust which brings out depth and a smokey flavour to meat and fish," says Razak Helalat, owner of The Coal Shed, asteak and seafood restaurant in Brighton."Finding new ways to cook is important as different techniques can bring out different elements of your food."

Expert Tip: Charcoal can reach extreme temperatures (The Coal Shed's, for example, reaches 500 degrees Celsius), therefore it’s important to control and keep an eye on your cooking times. Leave some areas of the grill without any charcoal – this allows you to sear your food quickly and then control the heat by moving meat to these cooler areas.

1. Roast the mixed crab and lobster shells for 45 minutes until brown.

2. In a large saucepan, sweat the fennel, onions and celery for 2-3 mins.

3. Add a splash of olive oil and tomato puree, and cook for a further 2-3 mins before seasoning.

4. Add the mixed shells to the pan and stir to combine.

5. Add just enough cold water to cover and bring to the boil. Skim any excess from the top.

6. Simmer on a low heat for 4 hours.

7. Strain.

Method (Stew):

1. Simply add shell-on prawns, mussels, clams, cockles, squid or any preferred shellfish and any white fish to a cast-iron pan. Add four generous ladles of your shellfish stock, enough so that the shellfish can poach. Season generously with pepper and a touch of salt.

2. Place on the charcoal grill and cover, allowing the fish to poach, the juices to flow and for the smoke to infuse with the stew. Check regularly and stir to make sure all the shells open up and it cooks evenly.

3. On a high heat, the shells should open relatively quickly but cooking times vary. Just be sure that all the fish is cooked through and that the prawns are pink.

4. When cooked, take off the grill and finish with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon.

5. Serve with roasted garlic aioli (which can also be roasted over charcoal) and chargrilled bread to soak up the sauce.