Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left
on the surface will be sealed under the ZWLFF acrylic coating, and
improper prep can also result in peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The
prep-work is the most important part! Do not try to cut corners here.
The cleaner your RV is, the better your final results will be.

Step 1: Start by washing your
RV well as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, and
rinsing well from the top down.

Step 2: You now want to remove
any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the
surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then liberally sprinkle
Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome,
rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a
time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go (Rinsing well is
important to remove all BKF residue. I used a "flow-thru" brush
attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).

Step 3: Next you want to make
sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the RV, since any
residual wax can cause the ZWLFF to peel and flake. Mix up a bucket of
TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to wash the entire RV again.
You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure
washer…anything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well as
you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well
is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a
clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard
part is done!

Step 4: Now comes the easy
part. Shake the ZWLFF well, and pour some into a shallow container (a
pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip it
into the ZWLFF (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How
much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now
simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet microfiber rag.
Don’t try to apply a heavy coat or try to “rub it in”; just wet the
surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It really
doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in
circles, and don’t worry about overlaps; ZWLFF is very thin/watery and
you are just trying to “moisten” the surface. Work your way all the way
around the RV. The thin coat of ZWLFF will dry very quickly; long
before you’ve gone all the way around it will be dry and you can
immediately start on the next coat.

That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy, shiny in
some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will
start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you
will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on
the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years,
it will be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have
a new lease on life! All for less than $30 total!

*Note: This procedure will slightly change/darken the color/shade of
your RV.

Things (I learned) to keep in mind:
-Don’t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been laundered,
as the color may bleed.
-Don’t try to “over-apply”, or try for a heavy coat, or you will get
runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, you’re just trying to
“moisten” the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If you are
getting a lot of runs, you’re applying it too heavily.
-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the ZWLFF is
very watery and will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. ZWLFF
dries fast, so keep an eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe
before they start to “set up”.
-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag and
surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP
stage (steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of ZWLFF across the
graphics prior to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and
apply the ZWLFF to the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as
per step 4 of the tutorial.

-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks,
catches, etc. The ZWLFF acrylic coating can sort of “glue” them closed
TerryT

FLOOR REPLACEMENT

The black material is a foam rubber pad
between the flooring and the floor itself. Pergo flooring and
others are consider a floating floor
which means that they are held in place by the side moldings. The pad
allows the floor to moves side to side and end to end as it expands
and contracts with the temp and humidity. It is about 3/16 inch
thick and has and has no other properties. I use a little duct
tape to hold
it in place until the floor is down,it will not move when it is
finished. It also comes in other colors depending on who makes it
and some use a pink rosin paper, but I like the foam stuff best. Cost
is $30 to $50 a roll and one roll will do the coach. The first
set of
pictures was a 26' coach and the second was of the 30' stretch.

Material cost vary depend on which style, finish and manufacture that
you buy. I probably had right at $200 for all materials and I make
and finish my own side and end moldings as they can added another $150+
if you buy the matching stuff from the manufacture. I also
screw my moulding to the floor and not nail so I could remove them if I
ever had to repair the flooring.

Tools are very simple, cut off saw, hand saw, rubber hammer, 12 oz
hammer, drill, setting block and setting bar. Just read the
instruction for the floor that you buy.

The main reason we went with the Pergo style flooring is that it is so
easy to clean and keep clean. We could never get all the sand and
dirt out of the carpets when we were in Florida. Just sweep and
use a damp rag and it is done. JR WRIGHT
-----------------
I installed Pergo in our GMC and later on, in our SOB. Beautiful
stuff but it is impossible to keep looking clean. I finally
ripped the stuff out of
the SOB (sold the GMC) and installed a single piece of very expensive,
floating, vinyl/linoleum and it looks gorgeous and always looks clean.
Plus, it is much easier to clean than the Pergo. We just finished
a one month trip and my wife will never have a Pergo or Pergo type
floor again.
STEVEN F

FIBER GLASS
Each of you have asked what materials were used in my recent fiberglass
repair project so the following is a recap of the products finally
selected. These selections, particularly the Evercoat products,
were triggered by a remark I found on Jim Bounds' daily blog in which
he reacted to a debate on GMCnet regarding SMC repairs in which he
wrote something like this:

"This time, the "old guys" don't have it
right--what you should do is follow the advice found on Corvette
discussion boards related to later model body repairs."

Jim's advice eventually led me to the Everlast products identified
below. Prior repairs in the same area of our coach involved epoxy
resins and lots of Bondo, all of which failed when I tried to move a
large tree with the left rear corner of the coach and opened up old
repairs in the same area. TAP Plastics proved to be a good
source of fiberglass fabrics and advice (except for their unfamiliarity
with the idiosyncrasies of SMC).

This project was my first venture into fiberglass repair and with these
products made it pretty easy to achieve decent appearing results for
even a novice. Will the new materials perform well in the long
run? Time will tell.
-------------------------
Fiberglass:
Tape 4" (heavy woven mat for backside
use)http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=102&

Painting was done using the "$50 Rustoleum paint job" roller methods
found on many hot-rod bulletin boards and YouTube videos with the
exception of use of "Rust Stop", a private-label version of Rustoleum
carried only by Ace Hardware---with the big advantage that Ace Hardware
can color-tint the paint to match. Johnb

RUSTED BOLTS

For those of you that are using Kroil which
is good, there is a better solution.

Machinist's Workshop (2007/04) magazine tested penetrants for break out
torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as
forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker. The
magazine arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a”
scientifically rusted" environment. http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/random-photos/p40657-penetrating-oil-test.html

N.B. The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than
any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist
group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil"
for about 20% of the price.

Here are the results of the test of the ATF/Acetone verses PS/Acetone.

Although neither material mixes into a homogeneous solution the ATF/
Acetone combination does not separate very rapidly as compared with
the PS/Acetone combination that separates almost immediately after
shaking.

I have not yet tried the AFT/Acetone mixture, but I have several
friends that use it and swear by it.

Back Hatch Screw Replacement

If you really, really, really, want to make it all disappear then make
a single hole and cut an aluminum patch that fits as exactly as
possible into the hole. Make a second patch about an inch larger
overall. Flush rivet the larger to the inside of the roof with suitable
sealant between, then fit the smaller into the hole and flush rivet it
to the first.

Plan 2, flush rivet a single patch to the inside of the roof covering
all holes and fill the holes with bondo.

Plan 3, put rubber washers over suitable sized screws, coat with
sealant and use them to fill the small holes, make an aluminum patch to
cover the large hole(s), coat with sealant and screw in place with
sheet metal screws or pop rivet.Glenn Giere
------------------------------

RICHARD MCDONALD
-----------------------------Do you know if anyone has ever
attempted to Aluminum TIG weld a to repair a roof hole?

Don't forget that the ceiling, like the walls, has been sprayed with
VERY flammable urethane foam. Welding it without totally
protecting that foam is an almost sure way to destroy the coach.

Elem Fayard (a deceased Dixielander famous for Bob Drewes' and Tom
Whitton's amazing coaches, as well as many of the fiberglass
accessories' designs) burned his 23' to the ground in just a few
minutes when attempting that.Ken H.

If you are talking about the outside body belt molding that goes from
side marker light front to back, I know Cinnabar has it as do I believe
the Jims and Gateway lists it and probably Grandview as well.

What type of plastic are the "Tee" skirts
made of?

It all depends. You don't say what motorhome model you have but I
looked you up and find that you have a 1977 Royale.
The GMC finished motorhomes at that time used SCM (Sheet Molded
Compound) the same as used on the main bodies of the GMC.
Since you have a Royale really all depends on what Coachmen
Industries decided to use at the time or perhaps what a prior owner put
on.
There have been people that have produced a laid up fiberglass T
skirt.

If you look inside the T skirt you can usually tell. If it is
smooth and has mold marks with smooth ribs it is probably SCM. If
it is rough fiberglas then it is laid up work. Emory S

Black
Tank

If its an original tank its
polypropylene. Emery.

You cannot repair polypropylene tanks with polyethylene materials.
If you have the Maintenance Manual X7525 check out page 24L-3.
-------------------------------
I bought a tank repair kit from Arrow Trailer Supply in Montclair, Ca.
over 6 years and 60,000 miles ago. The tank has had a lot of use and
the patch is still holding.
Other trailer supply or RV stores probably have the same thing.
The kit was a piece of fiberglass mesh fabric and a tube of black resin
or glue. I think it also had a piece of sand paper to roughen the area
to be repaired. Cost about 15 bucks.--Gene Barrow

Water
Tank

Our water tanks are polyethylene;
here's a video I ran across on
> how to repair polyethylene. It mentions that the material
has to be
> "flamed" before repair. <http://www.tripphop.com/videos/tripp19b.wmv
Kirk
----------------------------
. The fresh water tank is polyethylene.
If you have the Maintenance Manual X7525 check out page 24L-3.
Better use a piece of polyethylene instead.

You can get pieces of it by just cutting strips from a plastic milk
bottle.
Your idea of using a solder gun is good. Weller has a large flat tip
available that let's one "paddle" the melted surface.

Sometimes, though, the plastic gets so old and brittle and the
plastisizer dries out so it won't hold together even when welded.emery

------------------------------

I have had great success using a
furniture refinisher's knife (low temp soldering iron with a very wide
tip) but it was not quite hot enough without a heat gun to warm the
fresh water tank plastic. For one repair I used plastic from
another tank for to fill the crack on the other I used hot glue gun
sticks. Both approaches worked very well - the repairs have
lasted 3 years so far without a hitch. I preheated the plastic to
be worked with a hot air gun and first melted one side of the split
into the other side before adding new stuff. I also sealed leaks
in my black water tank at the sending unit by covering the leaking
screws and seals and all else with hot glue gun plastic. It was
an on the road repair but it lasted without incident so far. I
expect that when it leaks next time, I will find an easier process or
replace the entire tank. DougN

WINDOW TRIM

is only
for 73/74 coaches
I used "CRL Black 5/64" Sealstrip Glass Tape" for the fixed
windows. One roll was about twice as much as I needed for our
1973 23' coach. Soapy water helped with getting this back
into the channels once the tape is wrapped over the glass edges.
(it's not really "tape" since it's not sticky). Trim the rubber
tape back after the window is in place.

I also used the usual fuzzy channel stuff others have mentioned for the
sliding windows. At the time JimK was out of fuzzy channel, so I
got it from vintage trailer supply. Others have mentioned
other sources/versions which may fit more tightly, but the stuff I got
is holding up OK after 4 years.

At the GMCWS rally I saw a few coaches
with the white rubber trim, it looked good, of those that I asked they
didn't know of a source for it. The trim was in when the coach was
bought.
Any problems with the white rubber trim?

YES
the problem is that your windows were not designed to use it.
There is a groove in the aluminum extrusion of the window frame
that the white rubber trim goes into.
You don't have this on the earlier windows. emery
-------------------------------

Window Channel

a source for window channel material.
I got mine from Danno
Enterprised
in Port St. John FL. www.dannoenterprises.com,
321 452-8101.
Their part
number is AS1268, (They reference number 75-0639 which is the
manufacturers
number.)

Mine is 8 foot but perhaps they have longer available. It was
$8.00 per 8'
length. Glen
--------------------

The bulging fiberglass on each side of the
cockpit is sometimes called "Chipmunk Cheeks"
and is present to some extent on most GMC's.

I suspect most of us have just filled the gap with spray foam or caulk
and avoid looking down the side of the coach.

A more complete fix is to remove the rubber rub strip on the
beltline and install flat head screws from the outside into the inner
wall before the
sealing. Replacing the rub strip covers the screw heads.

The most complete fix I've seen was by a Corvette specialist who gave a
presentation at a GMCES rally several years ago: He used some
sort of two part adhesive, the specifics of which I don't recall, to
adhere a fiberglass angle to the inside of the fiberglass after pushing
it into place from the outside. Both the adhesive and screws held
it the floor.

You might pioneer the use of the aluminum angle adhered with 3M 5200.
I'd back it up with the screws through the beltline though. KenH

---------------------------------------------

The process that gene used was to drill
the holes through the belt line
when the rubber was removed, the holes went through the SMC into the
metal structure in the cab.

He used small flat head bolts to pull
the "Chipmunk Cheek" flat to match the profile of the rest of the
coach.

That still left a space between the floor and the side of the
cab. To fix that he used a piece of 90 degree angle aluminum,
angledown, glued with 3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adhesive (black) for
aluminum to
aluminum to bond the aluminum angle to the existing floor structure. He
backed that up with rivets (mainly to hold things in place while the
adhesives setup).

What
is very hard to see in the photo is that he used a scrap peace of SMC
between the aluminum angle and the side of the coach to deal with the
difference between the flat aluminum angle and the curve in the side of
the coach.

He used 8219 Panel Adhesive for SMC to metal/SMC, to adhere
the SMC strip to the aluminum angle, then sanded the SMC strip to match
the side of the coach. Then he used the 8219 Panel Adhesive again to
adhere the aluminum angle, SMC sandwich to the side of the coach.

The
holes were pre-drilled for the rivets, those are what is used to hold
the aluminum angle/smc in place while the two types of adhesive setup.
Hope that helps.....RichardS

INSIDE
CAP REPAIR

The plastic is ABS. I repaired some cracks
and holes in mine using West System epoxy.
For cracks and small hole I used aluminum duct tape as backer for the
epoxy.
For the larger holes I also used fiberglass
mat as reinforcement.
To simulate the pebble finish I used A SEM product for that purpose and
after painted the panels with SEM. Tony
------------------
PHOTOS BY ARCHhttp://www.gmcmotorhome.info/cap.html

BODY REPAIR (SMC)

I have a couple of repairs to do
to the Generator and Propane Doors. Also may need to do some work
up by the Clearance Lights.

I want to make sure I get the right materials if
it's SMC. KEN

-----------------------

SMC is interesting. It is a reinforced plastic that can be shaped
with heat and pressure. The important thing to you is that the
plastic matrix usually includes a mold release. Much of this is
supposed to migrate to the mold (tooling) surfaces during the process,
but not all of it does and so when you cut, sand or crack the material,
there will be release agent exposed. For this reason, it is
essential that you clean any surface you choose to glue, adhere or
paint with a very strong solvent - like acetone.

Do not both with car store fiberglass patch
kits. Those are all polyester resins and their adhesive strength
is not real good. Use only epoxy and glass cloth or fillers.
Do not use autoparts (or even cheap boat store) fiberglass
mat as it has a binder that is incompatible with epoxy - it is only for
polyester or vinylester resins.

My personal advice:
Go get the West System (not West Marine - these are the Gougeon Bros of
Bay City, Mi) books on fiberglassrepair. You might find the books on a shelf at
a marine store (even West), but you might end up having to order them.
Read them at least once. Then go get a set of small cans
and pumps. (Buy the pumps - you will never miss a mix.)

West stuff costs more and if you buy it at a boat store it might as
well say RV special for the price, but it will be worth every penny.

As you will be working small areas in low temperatures, get the 205
hardener. Enough to be about 1/2 inch in the bottom of a sour
cream container will not go exothermic too fast and you should have a
working time of about an half an hour.

Get some gloves for your hands and vinegar to clean up the uncured
material. Get someone to work with you at least the first couple
of go-rounds because you will need someone with clean hands to do
things sticky hands can't do.

If you need to work cloth at all, have two pairs of scissors handy.
One set is for cutting the clean dry cloth and should never be
near mixed epoxy. The second should be cheap and disposable
because you will need them to trim cloth and fibers of saturated glass
material and if you do not get to cleaning them soon enough, they will
no longer be a pair of scissors.

If you need surface fillers, just get the microlight for the epoxy and
make it up at the density you want as you need it - don't go buying
pre-packaged filler. MATT

FRAME PAINTING
(anti-rust)

As far as painting the chassis and other metal parts to protect from
rust, POR-15 is a very good product.

I must however mention a product that I prefer instead of the POR-15.
It was developed by one of the original POR-15 guys when the
POR-15 company refused to add new products to their line. Pat
Mastrincola developed MasterCoat, a similar product, but I think it has
more solids in it. MasterCoat was the first to have a special
black chassis paint. Check the label and do a little research for
yourself. I used POR-15 on the rear axle assembly of my 56'
Tbird. It looked great, but after several years it turned
ultra-flat chalky black. I wasn't happy. I did the front
end parts with the MasterCoat chassis black about a year later and it
still looks like the day I painted it.

I prep everything in a glass bead booth, solvent rinse, let dry and
paint. You can brush on the MasterCoat and it just flows out with
no brush streaks.

Now, for about 1/4th the price, you can use Rustoleum rusty metal
primer and top coat that with Rustoleum INDUSTRIAL black - enamel.
Make sure it is the industrial stuff. You can find it at
the Depot on the bottom shelf in the paint section. TomE
------------------------------
I havee always used transmission fluid in the belief that it creeps
very well and will not 'eat' rubber components. At first I
was using a compressor and old paint gun, but now whenever I slide
under the GMC I take a spray bottle of trans fluid and soak it down.
I'm under enough to give most parts a spray at least every second
year. Mike
.

TIRE COVERS

a few years ago we had a Toyo tire co. representative speak at
an SOB rally.

His position was that they do no
good; he maintained that the vast majority of the surface deterioration
of tires is due to ozone, not sunlight. Covers don't slow down
ozone.

The same tire rep, during the same
presentation, was adamant that NO tire "protectant" should be used.
He would not, for obvious reasons, name the product, but said
that one of the most popular would definitely harm their (Toyo) tires
-- and probably others. KenH

FRONT WHEEL LINERS

I've some cracks in my fender liners and have tried fiberglass as a fix but it
doesn't stick. What is the best way to patch these things? What is the
best way to prep for painting? Glen,

The only satisfactory repair on the front wheelliners I know of is
plastic welding. JohnS

------------------------------

I have
successfully welded cracks in the wheel wells
by using a plastic welding gun and a strip of plastic cut from the
bottom edge of the wheel well. The plastic
welding guns are available from Harbor freight for a one time repair or
a quality gun can be had from any autobody supply house. HTH.....Terry
---------------------------

Being # 295 off the line from the
beginning of production, there are several things you may want to look
at. I like early model coaches, have 2 of them. I look at
them as a "box of chocolates", you never know what you have to you bite
in!

o The floor is a single layer plywood construction, later models
had a composite wood, foam, aluminum floor construction, The mufflers
had a nasty habit of burning and charring the bottomside of the
floor. 74 models started in with heat shields between the floor
and mufflers.

o Steve Ferguson found that the early coaches "A" arms needed
more reinforcement, you want to be sure there are no crackes around the
lower ball joints and that the shock mounts are not loose.

o Locating the air suspension tank under the battery was a brain
fart, also the regulator for the system was reading line not tank
pressure. A replumbing and relocating of the system would really
help it work better. Get one of JR Slaten's "Power Level II" dash
valve kits-- solds 50% of your air ride troubles.

o Make sure the screws that hold the window latches are in good
shape, if you loose a latch---- well, lets say they are made of
"unobtanium"!

o The "A" frame windows (the window frame holding 3 pieces of
glass at the driver and pass. seats) were put in with screws on the
early coaches. They figured out how to install them better
later. These windows are "leakers". We seal completely
around the frame to body ---- of course you could drill holes in the
floor to let the water out!

o The rest of the side windows on the early coaches were also
"leakers". The frame is a 4 piece "brake apart" design with no
sealant at the joints.

o The rear panel screws on a 73 were threaded into brass
"inserts" in the SMC body. I would not suggest you try and take
them out. They are usually rusted in place. On 73 models we
usually sand blast the screws, hit them with Ospho (a rust killer) then
prime/seal and paint them the body color and leave them alone.
Removing them all could end up being a big job.

o The generator compartment covers sometimes leak fumes into the
interior, I would remove the generator, clean it up and totally
seal and insulate the generator compartment. There was a story I
heard from on of the interior design engineers at a GMCMI convention
who told about the early coaches and the less than wonderful detail of
the sealing of the generator. Since, I have seen what she was
talking about.

o If the motor still uses a point dist, loose it for an HEI set
up. Gives a much better spark and easier to maintain.

o Don't lock the entry door without using a key, I have seen
early coach latch mechanisms bind up. I would just use the key on
any model, not push the stem down on the inside and hold the handle----
you just never know!

o Keep the rear suspension pins lubed, the early coach used
smaller diameter pins-- no problem if you keep the greased up.

o Do not blow the air bags completely and drop the back to the
ground, the wheels hit the liners and crack
them. Later models had cut outs to provent this.

o Your coach was originally plumbed with copper pipes on the
fresh water system. 1973 only, later models used plastic
piping. Sweated copper fittings do not like to bump and
twist going down the road, watch for leaks!

So now that I've scared you to death, the 73 models are no bigger
trouble than any of the other ones, like I said I like them, I have 2
--- actually 3 of them. Just know you have the first year,
prototype model and watch for this special stuff. There are other
things about the 73 modles, didn't want to make this post too long.

Let me know if you have any other questions, Jim Bounds

GRILL
REPAIR

JB Weld worked for my grill. That was
recommended by Max Pardy at Buskirk-Rush. That's how they did it. ErvT
------------------------------

I have made some repairs to my grill. I had several cracks, all the nubs that
go through the smc body were drilled out and some pieces were missing.
The grill is made of the same material your
black pipings is, ABS.
for cracks, try to feed some of the solvent for gluing ABS into the
crack and let set. It should be a strong hold.
For areas missing material, you can take a piece of the ABS pip and
shred it to small bits, a little larger than sand, I just cut it with a
hack saw blade and used the chips that were made from cutting.
form the piece you are replacing on the VISIBLE side with masking tape,
if it needs to be shiny, use a clear plastic bag where it will touch
the material, keep as smooth as possible, no wrinkles.
make a mush of the ABS chips and solvent until it is pastey and thick,
then on the back side, smear the paste into the space to be occupied
with new material. Give a few extral pushes by the sides where it
touches the old material. It is ok to put a bit more on than
needed, it will shrink over a week to two week period as it cures.

Any space between the old and new material can be filled in again and
any rough surface can be bondo-ed. Sand smooth and paint.
Where I tried to replace my nubs I found I had too little area to glue
to so am trying a slot design now. Too new to report on now.
I had good luck with this and it keeps the material more or less
virgin, incase there are future repairs.
And if you are careful, it isn't all that messy either. I mixed
and applied the material with a popcycle stick.

If you are filling a void, be aware that
the material will shrink a bit as it cures so dont paint for a couple
weeks. I had waited a few days, being my first attempt at repair and then painted. A week or so later I
could see where the material pulled in slightly, not unattractively,
but I know its there.