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Comment

Water cooled torches are smaller than air cooled and will handle higher amps.
More info is needed:
Where are you using it ( shop or portable)
What are you welding ( size, aluminum, steel)
What I did, when I got my Dynasty 200, was to get the water cooled runner package with the wireless remote and added an are cooled touch for portable uses.
Kevin

Comment

Water cooled torches are smaller than air cooled and will handle higher amps.
More info is needed:
Where are you using it ( shop or portable)
What are you welding ( size, aluminum, steel)
What I did, when I got my Dynasty 200, was to get the water cooled runner package with the wireless remote and added an are cooled touch for portable uses.
Kevin

I restore vehicles and some fabrication, 50% steel 50% aluminum will be for shop, but if needed portable I guess. $ is not the issue at present but do not want to over buy, or "I wish i had" type thing.

Max aluminum and steel is 1/4"

Am a disabled Vet and trying to set up for more income at home shop.

Also, I do some trailer/hitch work, is the "stick" mode on the 200 capable of this, mostly 1/2"?

God Bless
John

Comment

Being new to tig, the contractor kit/with foot control has everything you will need, and is spec'ed right. The steel ground clamp is cheesy, but upgrades in brass or bronze are quite cheap depending on what style you want.

You get a nice torch parts kit with the contractors kit. I purchased a few stubby gas lens parts for production work and am very happy with them. I can also pull off the WP17 torch, and put on a smaller WP-9 torch that takes the WP-20 torch parts of which I have dozens of. But I would not push more than 100 amps thru it. The wired finger control torches iin the finger control contractor kit are a pain in the rear to change out for different torches.

I also picked up a CK rotary finger strap on current controller for field work. Due to some stiffness in my forefingers and thumb joint(arthritis?) I cannot feel the small tab on the slide switch types. I can feel the belt thru my gloves and have full dexterity to get the job done.

Good luck with your decision. You will not be disappointed with the 200DX if you report back here and let us work with you on parameters. My little dynasty has magical properties, but it does help that I know what a quality tig machine is.

The stick side I have no clue as I have no use whatsoever for stick. My next purchase will be the Hobart Trek180 mig if they ever choose to put a spoolgun feature on it. Migs fill my stick needs.

Comment

Being new to tig, the contractor kit/with foot control has everything you will need, and is spec'ed right. The steel ground clamp is cheesy, but upgrades in brass or bronze are quite cheap depending on what style you want.

You get a nice torch parts kit with the contractors kit. I purchased a few stubby gas lens parts for production work and am very happy with them. I can also pull off the WP17 torch, and put on a smaller WP-9 torch that takes the WP-20 torch parts of which I have dozens of. But I would not push more than 100 amps thru it. The wired finger control torches iin the finger control contractor kit are a pain in the rear to change out for different torches.

I also picked up a CK rotary finger strap on current controller for field work. Due to some stiffness in my forefingers and thumb joint(arthritis?) I cannot feel the small tab on the slide switch types. I can feel the belt thru my gloves and have full dexterity to get the job done.

Good luck with your decision. You will not be disappointed with the 200DX if you report back here and let us work with you on parameters. My little dynasty has magical properties, but it does help that I know what a quality tig machine is.

The stick side I have no clue as I have no use whatsoever for stick. My next purchase will be the Hobart Trek180 mig if they ever choose to put a spoolgun feature on it. Migs fill my stick needs.

Happy Thanksgiving,
Terry

Thanks so very much for the info.
Should I get the water cooled now or wait, depending how hard it is to upgrade?

Comment

Being new to tig, the contractor kit/with foot control has everything you will need, and is spec'ed right. The steel ground clamp is cheesy, but upgrades in brass or bronze are quite cheap depending on what style you want.

You get a nice torch parts kit with the contractors kit. I purchased a few stubby gas lens parts for production work and am very happy with them. I can also pull off the WP17 torch, and put on a smaller WP-9 torch that takes the WP-20 torch parts of which I have dozens of. But I would not push more than 100 amps thru it. The wired finger control torches iin the finger control contractor kit are a pain in the rear to change out for different torches.

I also picked up a CK rotary finger strap on current controller for field work. Due to some stiffness in my forefingers and thumb joint(arthritis?) I cannot feel the small tab on the slide switch types. I can feel the belt thru my gloves and have full dexterity to get the job done.

Good luck with your decision. You will not be disappointed with the 200DX if you report back here and let us work with you on parameters. My little dynasty has magical properties, but it does help that I know what a quality tig machine is.

The stick side I have no clue as I have no use whatsoever for stick. My next purchase will be the Hobart Trek180 mig if they ever choose to put a spoolgun feature on it. Migs fill my stick needs.

Happy Thanksgiving,
Terry

OK, SO THE 200DX COMPLETE PACKAGE (WATER COOLED) FROM CYBERWELD IT IS (951139).
Question: Should I wish to go out of the shop and go air cooled, what additionall do I need and how difficult to change?

Thanks
John

Comment

Go with water cooled air cooled are big and "clumzee". I tried a air cool when
I first got my 250 syncro. As soon as I could aford it I switched. 250 amp is
all you'll ever need. I restore cars as well mostly British. Hope you have a good
Mig as well.

Comment

go with water cooled air cooled are big and "clumzee". I tried a air cool when
i first got my 250 syncro. As soon as i could aford it i switched. 250 amp is
all you'll ever need. I restore cars as well mostly british. Hope you have a good
mig as well.

Comment

Thanks so very much for the info.
Should I get the water cooled now or wait, depending how hard it is to upgrade?

God Bless
John

I have the aircooled torches and do limited production work with it, but then I really need the portability on field jobs too. You are doing automotive restoration in short bursts. I don't see the need for watercooled. In fact it would be a burden if you want to to portable. And it is easy to upgrade later and even have both. Once you are making money, the decision will be easy. Oh, and yes I have burned up a couple of torch heads doing production before I found the decent combo of parts.

I would start with aircooled but either way you can't go wrong. One reason I chose aircooled is that the water cooler itself does not have a way to automatically energize when you start the machine, as it has no 115volt outlet. A space issue I reckon. I don't think I will ever go watercooled on my little dynasty, even though I have many water coolers at my disposal.

Comment

I have the aircooled torches and do limited production work with it, but then I really need the portability on field jobs too. You are doing automotive restoration in short bursts. I don't see the need for watercooled. In fact it would be a burden if you want to to portable. And it is easy to upgrade later and even have both. Once you are making money, the decision will be easy. Oh, and yes I have burned up a couple of torch heads doing production before I found the decent combo of parts.

I would start with aircooled but either way you can't go wrong. One reason I chose aircooled is that the water cooler itself does not have a way to automatically energize when you start the machine, as it has no 115volt outlet. A space issue I reckon. I don't think I will ever go watercooled on my little dynasty, even though I have many water coolers at my disposal.

Again I would save the cash and go aircooled but that is just me.

One of the main reasons I was thinking watercooled was the torch size, but will take your info and give it much thought! How much too hard to handle is an air cooled torch vs a watercooled torch?
God Bless
John

Comment

One of the main reasons I was thinking watercooled was the torch size, but will take your info and give it much thought! How much too hard to handle is an air cooled torch vs a watercooled torch?
God Bless
John

Good point. Watercooled is slimmer. My beef with aircooled is the ribbed handle. It is fat. But I have still strapped my finger controller to it. I have thought about ordering and non ribbed handle but it will get hot fast, but that is what gloves are for. Really the air cooled WP-17 is not so much larger than my Speedway320 torches that it gets me worked up about it.

Comment

I do a lot of sanitary welding for the food industry and I do production parts for machine shop. I have the dynasty 200 DX and it is a dream. Food industry is normally 14 ga through 1/8" for sheet and then conveyors and such can be as thick as 1/4". I will say that I have never hooked up a water cooled torch to my machine. I do 60% portable, 40% shop with it. I have never had a problem with it except for the time that I welded 1/2" to 3/4" steel parts together with a 50/50 mix of helium and it fryed the torch head due to excessive heat, was over 7 hours welding time in a 10 hour day. I am a smaller guy at 5'7" and as such I have smaller hands. The WP17 torch I usually run is fine to hold for me. I would love to have a water cooled torch due to size but you can't have everything you want, even since money isn't the reason for me as well. I do not like the finger controls, that is a problem for my size with torch style.