Since its origin, the JP1 Forum has continually updated its software and hardware (interface cable) designs to stay abreast of the various changes in design of remotes by their manufacturer, UEIC, and to accommodate the evolution in PC design that has resulted in steady disappearance of legacy ports, first parallel ports, and more recently serial ports. An unfortunate byproduct has been the accumulation of a bewildering array of interface designs, with support for some earlier designs dwindling as newer and better designs were developed.

Remotes manufactured by UEIC can be classified according to the type of microcomputer used and the type of memory used to store user configurable data. Prior to about 2004, all remotes used a separate memory chip (EEPROM) for programmable data. We have always called these JP1 remotes because that was the original designation of the 6-pin connector marked on the PCB. Remotes currently manufactured use newer technology flash microcomputers. These omit the EEPROM in favor of using part of the flash RAM to store programmable data. UEIC marked the 6-pin connector in these remotes JP1.1, JP1.2, or JP1.3 depending on the type of microcomputer used, so we called them that too. Flash remotes are sometimes referred to collectively as JP1.x remotes. At one point, we did design a JP1.x cable that was supposed to work with all flash remotes, but then we found an incompatibility problem when trying to use the same interface for JP1.3 as for JP1.1. Since the the JP1.1 platform was primarily limited to just one obscure Comcast model, that never gained much popularity, we discontinued support for it, leaving only two types of flash remotes, JP1.2 and JP1.3.

Because JP1 is the name of the Forum, and there is a tendency to refer to the entire population of remotes we deal with as JP1 remotes, a recent decision was made to clarify matters by referring to older type remotes as EEPROM remotes, or JP1 "EEPROM" remotes, and newer type remotes as JP1 "flash" remotes (also known as JP1.2/3 remotes).

INTERFACES FOR JP1 (EEPROM) REMOTES

1. Parallel Port (Simple version)
This is the least expensive, least complex, and easiest to build of all interfaces because it requires just three passive components, a piece of cable, and a couple of connectors. It is probably the most popular interface, but the simplicity comes with a price. The mis-match between remote and PC voltages sometimes causes problems that require experimenting with remote battery configuration, but if you search the forum you can find extensive troubleshooting suggestions that are well documented. Simple interfaces are available from vendors as kits or completed units.
DIY instructions are here.

2. Parallel Port (Ultra version)
This interface is a little more complex than the Simple because it uses an integrated circuit and seven other components. But it is much more dependable because it eliminates any problems caused by voltage mis-match between remote and PC.
DIY instructions are here.

3. Serial Port
About the same complexity as the Ultra (one IC, one transistor, and five other components), this interface also eliminates all voltage mis-match problems. It CAN NOT be used with a USB-to-Serial adapter because EEPROM remotes are not programmed with true RS232 serial communications.
DIY instructions are here.

4. USB Port
The most difficult for DIY because it requires a sole-sourced IC and about eight other components. The reason this works in a USB port while the serial interface (above) won't is that the special IC converts the serial port communications to EEPROM-compatible format. Some designs use an enclosure with two cables, and one vendor (Tommy Tyler) sells a USB JP1(EEPROM) interface that plugs directly into a USB port. USB interfaces use a special driver (freeware) that can be a little quirky to install. We recommend that you buy this as a kit or completed unit from one of the vendors, but you can also find DIY instructions here.

INTERFACES FOR JP1 (FLASH) REMOTES(No JP1 (Flash) cable will work with *both* a JP1.1 remote and a JP1.3 remote. You can either get a JP1.1/2 cable which won't work with JP1.3 remotes, or a JP1.2/3 cable which won't work with JP1.1 remotes. Unless otherwise specified, assume that a JP1 (Flash) cable is a JP1.2/3 cable).

1. Serial Port
The Serial JP1.2/3(flash) interface has gone through many iterations, and it's not always clear which version is being sold by vendors as kits or completed units. There are old designs that use the DTR line of the serial port to reset the remote, and newer designs that use the RTS line (IR.exe doesn't care which). It's also not clear which vendors omit any connection to pin 5 of the 6-pin connector, a critical requirement if the interface is to be used with JP1.3 remotes as well as JP1.2. This interface CAN be used on a USB port with a standard USB-to-Serial adapter. Although there are no updated instructions containing details of how to build one, the latest and simplest schematics for both transistor and IC versions can be found here.

diygadget.com has both JP1.1/2 and JP1.2/3 cables. These are in fact the same cable, the difference is that wire #5 has been cut on the JP1.2/3 version.

2. USB Port
At the present time there is one vendor (Tommy Tyler) selling a JP1.2/3 (flash) interface that plugs directly into a USB port. There are no published DIY instructions or schematics for this type of interface.

Original JP1 interfaces, for remotes having an S3C80 Processor and EEPROM

These are used with most older type URC remotes (6131, 7800, 8060, 8910, 8811, 9960, etc.) as well as with many
Radio Shack remotes (15-1994, 2116, 2133, etc.)

A minor point perhaps, but the original JP1 interfaces can also be used with even older remotes than the S3C80 generation.

In general, the original JP1 interfaces are used with most UEI remotes than have a separate EEPROM chip. In additon to remotes using the Samsung S3C80 Processor, this would include remotes using the Mitsubishi P8/740 Processor (examples: URC-8800; Radio Shack 15-1995), and both versions of the Motorola 68HC05 Processor (such as the URC-7070, the blue Terk DirecTV remotes, older Intuitive & Navigator remotes, Radio Shack 15-1925, etc.)_________________Mike England

JP1.x interfaces, for remotes having a flash processor and no EEPROM
Th JP1.1 version of this platform was introduced around 2004 in the US with the URC-1067 Comcast remote. The JP1.2 version was introduced with the 2nd Generation Kameleons in Europe (ie, URC-8203, 8206, etc) and then in the US with models URC-6820, 8820, 10820 and the URC-6690 Kameleon.

Is the URC-1067 Comcast remote JP1.1 or JP1.2? I have seen threads talking about URC-1067 as a JP1.2 remote.

I want to pick up an interface cable for this remote, but I have heard that the JP1.2 cables are more reliable than the JP1.x cables. My remote has the label '1067ABG1-B003'. Next to the 6-pin header it only reads 'JP'; everything else is presumably under the plastic.

I've never had a problem with my JP1.x cable, so I'm not quite sure what the background is to the claim that one cable is more reliable than the other.

If there is any doubt whether your remote is JP1.1 or JP1.2, you should get a JP1.x cable._________________Rob
www.hifi-remote.comPlease don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

JP1.x interfaces, for remotes having a flash processor and no EEPROM
Th JP1.1 version of this platform was introduced around 2004 in the US with the URC-1067 Comcast remote. The JP1.2 version was introduced with the 2nd Generation Kameleons in Europe (ie, URC-8203, 8206, etc) and then in the US with models URC-6820, 8820, 10820 and the URC-6690 Kameleon.

Is the URC-1067 Comcast remote JP1.1 or JP1.2? I have seen threads talking about URC-1067 as a JP1.2 remote.

I want to pick up an interface cable for this remote, but I have heard that the JP1.2 cables are more reliable than the JP1.x cables. My remote has the label '1067ABG1-B003'. Next to the 6-pin header it only reads 'JP'; everything else is presumably under the plastic.

Should I go JP1.2 or JP1.x?

If you go to http://www.urcsupport.com/index.php and click on the Comcast option on the side to bring up the comcast remotes does yours match the one they call the 1067a? If so that is a jp 1.2 remote and works fine with the jp 1.2 cable I ordered at diygadget.

If you do pick up a dedicated JP1.2 cable, you might also want to pick up the extra parts needed to convert it to JP1.1 just in case your remote turns out to be a JP1.1. The URC-1067 has come in both flavors._________________Rob
www.hifi-remote.comPlease don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

I don't believe that the design for this version has been posted, but it's arguably the cable of choice, so we should alert the newcomers who will (hopefully) read sticky posts that it is an option to consider apart from the serial design that is the only one listed currently.