Best Tartares (2008)

Orsay

Allegedly first eaten in the Baltic provinces of Russia in medieval times, when the Tartars shredded beef with a knife before devouring it raw, the dish has become a classic offering. Nowadays, the tartare is as likely to be salmon or tuna as beef. At ORSAY, the glitzy new bistro that occupies the space that the oh-so-haughty Mortimer's used to occupy, there's a special section of the menu for them. Don't miss Le Scandinave, a mixture of haddock, gravlax, and dill.