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To affix a panel to a wall, you will need to purchase vinyl fence brackets. Please see the spec drawings of your fence style to determine the size of brackets that you need.
A. Place wall mounts evenly with fence rail spacing and secure with screws.
B. Install fence panel rails into wall mounts and secure fence rails with screws.
C. Finish installing the rest of the fence panel as a regular installation.

by Denise

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Sometimes it’s unavoidable to have an obstacle such as a tree in your fence line. Here is a tip showing what one customer did. However, we must caution that trees do grow. Please be really careful when attempting something like this, and leave room for the tree to grow. You would not want a growing tree to buckle your whole fence!

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The thickness of the extrusions (posts, rails and vertical pickets or boards) in your vinyl fence can become an important consideration in your purchase decision. We’re proud to provide this information below and more specifically in our detailed specification drawings which are included in our instructions.

Professional Grade Vinyl

Vinyl Posts (4 ½ x 4 ½) are .080 wall thickness (the per foot weight of this post is equivalent to a standard square 5×5 at .135 wall thickness because of its honeycomb configuration).

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Vinyl fencing can be cut just like wood. Preferably use a circular saw with a PVC blade or a sharp and straight fine-tooth carbide blade. If your saw blade is designed for rough cutting lumber and dull, it could shatter the vinyl. This is especially true if the vinyl is cold.

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In the vast majority of installations, the top of your anchor will not mushroom enough to cause confl­ict when putting the donut back over the anchor. The only potential problem is really hard or dry ground where repeated blows with the pounder are required.

2. Begin to use your level only after your anchor has been pounded about 18 inches into the ground.

Initially you can use other level reference points (house, another fence etc.) to eyeball level from. Step back 3 or 4 feet from your anchor in both directions to do this.

3. Use the handles of your pounder to either push or pull your anchor into alignment.

4. Slightly over compensate when pushing or pulling your anchor back into alignment.

Your anchor will have a tendency to want to revert or spring back to where it was being adjusted from, especially as it penetrates deeper into the ground. Pounding from the same side you want the anchor to travel towards is also recommended.

5. Try not to adjust your anchor into alignment for the last 6-12in. of penetration.

Adjustment at this stage requires the entire anchor shaft to be overly corrected which can enlarge the side of the hole you have just created during penetration. You want the ground to be as tight as possible around your anchor. Remember your anchor can be corrected to level using your leveling donut.

6. Speed things up by using two people on the pounder.

Two people working together in rhythm can really speed things up and lighten the overall burden. Grab a buddy and get into it.

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A. If your anchors inadvertently were spaced too far apart, you can extend your horizontal rails using wood blocking cut to fill the void in the extruded cavity.

B-D. Sleeve over your wood blocking by using the same size extruded vinyl. If you do not have any left over waste, please call us at 1.877.778.5733 as we may be able to help you with finding a solution.