Starting a new build

Hey guys! I’ve been poking around a few days while I’ve been waiting to pick up my HE351VE and I’ve decided on building my own controller instead of buying one. The turbo will be going on a 1997 Chevy K3500 with a 6.5L diesel. I’ve seen where others have ran this turbo with a spring actuator controlling the VGT, but I want to do it electronically, which is what brought me here. I picked up the used turbo today, off of a 2008 6.7 Cummins, but the actuator could be questionable so I want to get the Arduino built and functioning to test it. I’m looking at a DFRobot Bluno board, either an Uno or Mega equivalent, with on board Bluetooth. I’m wanting to add boost pressure and EGT sensors so the extra IO of the Mega seems appropriate, by your code is really meant for the Uno. I’m leaning toward an assembled CAN shield so I can support this project. I’ve got IDE installed, Common Code 2.0 open, and most of the libraries, but I can’t find the CAN library. When I get the controller talking to and controlling the actuator, I’ll finish out the mechanical side of the install and hopefully it runs! One big constraint is that I want to limit a max boost pressure of 12-13 PSI. My engine is stock and any more boost than that will cause problems. I’ll be doing head studs and thicker head gaskets in the future to build it up and lower compression to allow for more boost.

What do you guys think? Am I out of my mind or do you think this will work well? Is my max boost limit unrealistic, or can it be kept under control?

I was worrying about that. I wonder if I can build the T3 to T4I adapter with a wastegate port. I know that having the wastegate mounted perpendicular to the exhaust flow isn't ideal, but it may be the best I can do. I can tie the wastegate in to the crossover pipe also, but then I am only venting the exhaust pressure from 4 cylinders instead of all 8.

Here’s what I’m working with. 6.5L with a stock Borg Warner GM-8 turbo. My thought is to build the adapter with an angle to it to move the turbo toward the intake, giving room on the air box side for the actuator. I want to either pipe the wastegate forward under the center section and compressor or out the side of the adapter, and outlet back into the downpipe. I’m thinking forward will have more room for the wastegate.

Yes the rusted pipe is the crossover. To the left of it is the 3.5” downpipe. It will be replaced with a new 2.5” mandrel pipe at some point, more sooner than later. Here’s a better pic of the exhaust flange bolted to the manifold. I think I’m leaning toward coming straight out of the adapter toward the front of the truck with the wastegate, then run the vent pipe back, next to the manifold, and into the downpipe. You can see it in the pic to the left of the manifold.

I can't see hood clearance, but if you can space a few inches in your adapter, I would just take the turbo higher, and put the wastegate towards the valve cover, looks like there will be room to pipe it back down the hot side following the down pipe.

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AMP2 Corinthians 8:21For we take thought beforehand and aim to be honest and absolutely above suspicion, not only in the sight of the Lord but also in the sight of men.

That’s a good option also. The CDR (tuna can) plugs into the valve cover through that hole next to the flange so that may be in the way. I was planning on the adapter being 4” or so tall anyway to allow room for a wastegate. I’m thinking 44 mm will be a good size. I need to fab an elbow from the exhaust outlet to the downpipe too. Would there be a problem plumbing the wastegate outlet to the elbow, or is that too close to the exhaust outlet?