Risposte

1. end cover, and cover plate removed. 2. close up of broken mount point (under/behind blue wire) 3. inner broken-off arm removed, was completely free Well, I removed the 3 large screws in the end face of the icemaker, under the cover. As soon as I got it open, I could see the inner control arm, that operates the external arm, had it's base broken off of the housing. Since this part undergoes pressure from both motor and connected spring, I don't think I will have any luck repairing it (gluing plastic back into plastic), and I'm going to call this part of the repair a total bust, unless I hear recommendations to the contrary. I don't know enough to say if fixing the arm would remedy the missing cycle initiation or not.

I ordered and installed a new Automatic Water Supply Valve (AWSV) part no: 242252603. This is apparently a newer part that is now being used as a standard replacement for the old part. The kit included a new feeder line from valve, up to freezer entry point, and spout. When I installed the existing "in" line onto the valve, I also discovered the little copper(?) insert in the tubing was clogged and nasty with green and black crud. Although NOT the cause of the original problem, I recommend having a replacement insert ready as well (not included with the AWSV kit). The new valve seems to have done the trick WITH the new icemaker. The leak immediately stopped inside the freezer, and the new icemaker began to make ice as expected. The first batch took longer than expected, but they speed up as freezer regains cool.

Solution: The water line just needed time to come up to the ice maker. After a few hours and a shake, it eventually went up and filled the ice tray. I also found a guide that may assist with this icemaker: http://www.ehow.com/how_12021705_trouble...-kenmore-ice-maker-m1-sa8868.html Edits for the guide: Re: Step One, the sensor arm going "up to the right" is clearly labeled as the "OFF" position on mine. Re: Step Two, the *LARGE* nylon gear Bonus: The adjustment screw behind the plastic face plate on the unit is apparently for water level, and is very fragile.

Commenti Guida

3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.

-I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well

2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends

1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE

These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.

Step 16 ((NEW)) (unless I am crazy, this was not detailed). After removing original drive, remove bracket (2 screws) from its side, and reuse on new drive. If you are confused which bracket, the drive is held in place with 3 screws. The 3rd screw on the center of the logic board side, goes through this bracket that you need to reuse. Top view of bracket can also be seen in Step 11 picture.

mid 2010 A1297 again. Different configuration. I had a black plastic housing along this whole side. The large flat ribbon connects to it and I LEFT THE RIBBON IN PLACE on this housing. I removed 3 screws here to allow this black housing to be lifted off the drive and to the side, along with the camera line (held down by 3rd screw). When REPLACING this black housing after installation is complete, note there is a small tab on the disc slot side of the housing that needs to be inserted into a slot for correct placement. Then SKIP TO STEP 10 on this IFIXIT tutorial.