what size mainshaft race are you going for a stock, 3 thou or 5 thou over, and the needle roller sizes are .156 of an inch stock and the next 2 sizes .160 and .164 thou, are you gonna get the needle rolllers lapped ? I would.

correct me if im wrong. trying to clearify.

the oversize of mainshaft race applies to od of race where it fits in case, correct?

the oversize of mainshaft race applies to od of race where it fits in case, correct?

interesting question. it seems like (to me) if the i.d. of the race was oversized there would have to be undersized rollers available, which there aren't?! just sent Jims an email about it, will post results when they get back to me...

i thought i read an old post some time ago by "old man with a k model" about "fine tuning" the roller bearings to ensure they are perfectly round, but i can't seem to find it now. anyone know about this?

yes, sometimes they wear from poor alignment bad swingarm bushes and so on. I have seen a couple where the race has been put in with a silicone type gasket goo and it doesn't work and ends up costing the guy who owns it heaps to get it all nutted out. if you aren't pressing it in then its not the correct size.

question. looking at tha cases have they been welded?? around the middle?looks like a weld around the inside of cases. ? or just the way it looks. dont rember then with the bead look inside. lots were . . ??gar

question. looking at tha cases have they been welded?? around the middle?looks like a weld around the inside of cases. ? or just the way it looks. dont rember then with the bead look inside. lots were . . ??gar

not real sure about this, having never seen one before! so probably am missing it, that would be my luck. got a pic of what it's supposed to look like? is that slot right above the cs needle bearing where it goes? yeah, i'm sure that race spun around in there to get out of "clock" like that - not to mention the chipped edges of the flange. if it didn't spin then those chipped areas should've been centralized to the left side of it (as you are facing the photo - make sense) as the shaft canted toward the rear of the bike and low gear dug into it, right? is it pretty safe to say i need to get my race at least one size over because of this, or go with standard? i am definitely changing out both cs bearings. seems like it'd be a waste not to when into it this far - especially considering the small cost of the parts.

as it turns out, the left side case has been repaired in the past - i can't sit here and believe that the po didn't know about this when he sold it to me - grrrr. i noticed it the first time i changed the oil/primary juice. here's a better shot...
if you were to look at the underside of the belly you'd see a repair section about as wide and long as your index finger - left case only, right case no repairs, at least not visible. no idea who repaired the case or when.

thanks for all your posts so far, i'm learning a lot, just too bad it has to be the hard way, right? and a special thanks to dr. dick who was there when it seemed as simple as "hey, you're missing the dowels that locate your sprocket cover" - things were brighter then.

just realized that the anti rotation pin is above the mainshaft (12 o'clock), and the slot above the countershaft must be for oiling to the bearing.

so, this damned pin... should be a press fit? anyone have the dimensions or a source or even a picture of it? it's listed in the parts manual but not in the two catalogs i have - j/p or vtwin, of course!

Those are made to fix a case where catastrophic damage has occured & the race spun in the hole. Haven't run into that situation yet myself, but I have accumulated an adjustable ream & a Jims .005 over race to examine.

Figure I'd make an alignment collar/fixture to center off the trap door bearing. That's the way my line hone tool works.