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About GoBigRed313

This box is molded to fit in the corner of the trunk. I get a 30% discount from Mazda3forums membership, so it's about $225 shipped. I am going this route because I don't have the time to put into a custom-build at this point in my life. I once did, but it's a sad realization I have had to come to that if I want something like this, I will probably have to buy it. Who is DC? Does he have references? I apologize for my ignorance. I am sure he is legit, but I don't cruise the boards all that often anymore.

Howdy. I am in the market for a new sub to go in my Mazda 3. I have my eye on this Audio Integrations custom fit sub box to help claim back some trunk space, and hopefully not sacrifice a ton of sound. It has ~.7 cubic feet, available, and has 7" of mounting depth. I have about 700 x 1 watts rms @ 4 ohms to give the sub, and listen to all types of music (hip hop, rap, house/trance, metal, rock, etc). I am not looking for anything too crazy, but would like something that gives good bang for the buck. I see there are some good deals for black friday, and it got me thinking. Any suggestions?

First class product (still in use almost 7 years later), and a first class guy. I had many many questions after I purchased my sub from you, and had some complications from a shipping error from fedex. The quality of your product and the service you delivered was second to none, and has made it so I have had a difficult time parting with this sub, because I know that I will have a very difficult time finding the quality and service at the price point that you offered. Mike, it saddens me that this has happened, but I wish you luck in your future endeavors. If you attack your next venture the way you handled your business with Soundsplinter, you will be successful, without a doubt. It was refreshing dealing with someone who actually gave a crap about the customer.

My brother got an SA-8 and may not be able to port the box based upon where he wants to put the sub in his truck. If he decides to go with sealed, what volume should the enclosure be built to ensure the maximum quality output? Thanks in advance for the feedback.

No offense, but it sounds like it will be kind of a hot mess. Most boxes I have seen tuned that high are done so for competitions and are one note wonders. Maybe yours will be different, IDK. I think Sundown recommends 26-34 hz as the tuning frequency. Anything below your tuning frequency is going to roll off pretty steeply and be inaudible, but can still damage your speakers and distort badly. If you are tuned to 49 hz, unless you have a subsonic filter cutting everything off at 45 hz or so, you will distort the hell out of those subs. And if you do that, you are losing out on a large chunk of the band of frequencies that your subs will actually play. If I am off base here with my limited knowledge of enclosure tuning, someone please correct me.

I am going to use a round flared port design. In order to get the port where I need it, I am going to use an elbow and possibly a 45 degree piece. Anyone ever try this before? I imagine it wouldn't matter if the port is angled or straight, just as long as the port area is correct. Any thoughts?

If I'm not mistaken generally the best way to aim subs/port in a trunk is sub back port back. That doesn't mean this is always the best way, its install dependent. Personally that is the orientation that I have and even with the seats up the sound is fine. Edouble has a build log where he faced his sub firing into the cabin with the box sealing off the trunk, but this required removing the seat. I am not at all familiar with that soundsplinter sub, but depending how well they work sealed this may be the best way for you to go if you really wanted to save space and keep the sub, but you will loose output. I'm also not familiar with that car nor do I know how much space you were looking to save or how much output you are expecting. If you have issues with rattling the only way to really fix that is with sound deadening, placement won't solve the problem. Depending on how well that driver performs sealed and if you don't mind the output that may be a decent way to go. Sorry I couldn't be of more help Traditionally, yeah, that is the best method, but in this car there is no way to get air into the cabin without the sub firing directly into the cabin. I plan on building the box to face forward and try and seal it off from the trunk and leave the backseat down. I am the only one who rides in the car, so I really don't have a problem with this. I am not trying to make a stealthbox to conserve space or anything like that, but I don't want to build a box that is much bigger than what I have currently. If that makes any sense. I think I am going to try a ported box and see how it goes.

Yeah, ported in 1.55 cubes tuned at 34 hz. Not really pleased with how the box turned out that I made for the Mazda 3. I built the box with the port opening up and there is no way to get air into the cabin without having the backseat down. Right now the port is firing air right into the rear deck. Poor planning on my part. results in some odd frequency response and a great deal of rattling (I believe I can fix that) Well, my musical preferences are pretty much anything and everything. Listen to hip hop, alternative, classic rock, house/techno, even some country. My next box I want to make with the sub firing towards the front of the car with the port facing the same way. I would like to try and seal it off from the trunk as best possible. I am trying to save as much trunk space as possible, get as much sound as possible into the car, and either use the sub I have to get my desired sound or get some sub(s) to fill the job. I wouldn't mind keeping my sub, since it has been great for me, but am keeping my options open. Any feedback is welcomed. I highly recommend the ideas in bold to lots of people. If I were you I would keep the current setup, especially since it's still working well, and build a really nice spec'd box in the fashion mentioned above. Then, if it's STILL not giving the output you're looking for and you've done all you can with it, look into changing equipment. Then you'll know the measurements and techniques it will take to get the box just right in your car for whatever you upgrade to in the future. Just my .02 I'm a big fan of doing all I can to get everything out of what I already have before spending money on new stuff..... I'm a cheapskate in that regard.... I hear ya. I think I am going to grab a sheet of mdf and a PVC elbow and 45 to make the port work. Sub sounded great in my old car, but I was able to port through the rear deck. Night and day difference. Thanks for the input.

Yeah, ported in 1.55 cubes tuned at 34 hz. Not really pleased with how the box turned out that I made for the Mazda 3. I built the box with the port opening up and there is no way to get air into the cabin without having the backseat down. Right now the port is firing air right into the rear deck. Poor planning on my part. results in some odd frequency response and a great deal of rattling (I believe I can fix that) Well, my musical preferences are pretty much anything and everything. Listen to hip hop, alternative, classic rock, house/techno, even some country. My next box I want to make with the sub firing towards the front of the car with the port facing the same way. I would like to try and seal it off from the trunk as best possible. I am trying to save as much trunk space as possible, get as much sound as possible into the car, and either use the sub I have to get my desired sound or get some sub(s) to fill the job. I wouldn't mind keeping my sub, since it has been great for me, but am keeping my options open. Any feedback is welcomed.

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I have heard great things about the SA's as well, but not sure if the power I have would sufficiently push them. I would only be giving them 350-400 rms each. I am running an old school MTX 2300. I know there are probably more efficient sub amps out there now, but I have had this amp for 11 years now and it has never even hiccupped. Would that sufficiently power SA's?