Description

Beat Junkie is the best 5.13b at Rumney if not in all of New England. Though Predator gets most of the attention because of it's photogenic position, Beat Junkie has better moves, better rock, and a better overall feel.

Start on the raised ledge, on the far left-hand side. Beat Junkie climbs up the Skewer, a 5.12c fingercrack, before veering right up the overhanging wall. This fingercrack is not to be underestimated. For many, it is the crux of the route. Tall climbers may find a repreive by reaching left to the arete.

Once the crack is passed, the climbing remains pumpy until a great kneebar can be found. Rest here and then negotiate The Cave, a square cutout in the rock. The redpoint crux is higher still and consists of lockoffs on flat crimpers and a desperate slap to a small edge waaaay up on the upper slab.

On redpoint it is possible to fall from almost any move on the climb, from the terrible jams on the Skewer to the funky Cave moves to the dreaded topout on the slab. Because of its sustained climbing and varied moves, Beat Junkie is a deserved classic.

While I have not done a ton of stuff at Rumney (not a local), I would say that this route is the best that I have done there. For that matter, it is one of the better sport routes I have done anywhere. Its a long route on flawless stone with powerful, yet technical climbing, and it has both crack and face climbing with an exhilarating finish. Classic.

Surprised my self today by sending this route with relative ease after having a really hard time on it in the past. i think my lack of expectation helped me stay relaxed and just enjoy the movement which is spectacular! one of the best routes i've climbed at Rumney.