Dreyer's coconut pops make Hall of Fame

In today's cover story on paletas, author Gaby Camacho says that it's the flavor profiles that distinguish the Mexican popsicles from all others. She provides recipes for icy treats made from cucumber and chile or peach and honey, and snow cones with raspberry or sweet and tangy tamarind syrup.

In California, the frozen fruit pops are also ubiquitous signals of summer, though the flavors you'll find in most ice cream trucks and grocery store freezers are a little more common - strawberry, lime, orange and coconut, to name a few.

We decided to bring the creamy coconut versions before the Taster's Choice panel, and were surprised to find just four products in a wide range of stores.

Some were smooth, while others featured flecks of pulpy coconut. Regardless, these frozen pops are refreshing and feel healthier than the sugary commercial treats that are also on the market.

One brand slid into the Taster's Choice Hall of Fame, an honor given to products that score 80 or more out of a possible 100 points. That brand was Dreyer's ($3.50/six bars at Safeway), which tasters thought had a "very clean coconut flavor" that was "pronounced" and "well balanced." Most found the bars "sweet" and "creamy," with a "soft, not icy" texture and "lots of shreds of coconut inside." Four panelists would buy this brand and one would not.

Two brands tied for second place.

The first was Whole Foods' 365 brand ($2.79/four bars), which panelists described as "very sweet" with "nice pieces of coconut." One taster called the bars "almost chewy" with an "OK coconut flavor" and another said they had a "pleasant texture." Some thought they were "too sweet." Two might buy these bars and three would not.

Also in second place were bars from Fruitfull ($1.49/bar at Whole Foods), often sold individually wrapped in freezer cases. These were labeled "milky" and "icy" with a "nice coconut chew." "Good, if slightly artificial coconut flavor," said one taster, "but enough creaminess to make it good." Three might buy this brand and two would not.

Rounding out the pack was FrütStix ($3.79/four bars at Whole Foods). "A bit leaner and icier than the others," said one taster. Others said the bars had "lots of coconut," a "mild flavor" and was "more refreshing," though some thought they were "watery." Two might buy this brand and three would not.

Coconut frozen fruit pops

Dreyer's 80

365 52

Fruitfull 52

FrütStix 42

Panelists were Linda Anusasananan, food writer and consultant, San Mateo; Marc Halperin, culinary director, Center for Culinary Development; Shelley Handler, consultant, San Francisco; Rosemary Mark, recipe developer and consultant, Walnut Creek; and Roland Passot, chef-owner, La Folie and three Left Banks. All products are tasted blind; a perfect score would be 100. Prices listed are the lowest found, but products may be available at other stores.