Attention all Knifemakers!.....Product dealers/retailers and/or knife makers/sharpeners/hobbyists (etc) are not permitted to insert business related text/videos/images (company/company name/product references) and/or links into your signature line, your homepage url (within the homepage profile box), within any posts, within your avatar, nor anywhere else on this site. Market research (such as asking questions regarding or referring to products/services that you make/offer for sale or posting pictures of finished projects) is prohibited. These features are reserved for supporting vendors and hobbyists.....Also, there is no need to announce to the community that you are a knifemaker unless you're trying to sell something so please refrain from sharing.
Thanks for your co-operation!

If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Moisture % on a wood block before stabilizing

For a special project; I've picked up a beautiful piece of Cocobolo which it currently reads at 16% in the moisture meter. Would like to ask some questions to make sure I'm going in the right direction

My questions are:

1. For this type of wood what moisture % is the most desirable before stabilizing?
1A. If it needs to dry further, assuming in a Kiln, how long before it gets to that "desirable" moisture?
B. Is stabilizing needed? (There will be metal spacers)

While the maker of this handle/project will probably dictate what to do here, and I'm sure this varies from maker to maker, I would like to hear what other experts have to say.

1. Stabilization would typically need the piece to be 10% MC or lower.
2. There are all kinds of kilns and they can operate at different temperatures and humidity levels. I would suggest you take an MC reading, put it in the kiln for a couple of hours and take another reading. You can then calculate about how long it will take to get to the MC level you require.
3. For me, Cocobolo is on the cusp of needing to be stabilized. If you don't want to have to worry about it go ahead and stabilize it, but it might be okay if you don't. I'd take the maker's lead in this regard.

1. Stabilization would typically need the piece to be 10% MC or lower.

yeah yeah, that's what they say... But true, generally it should be 10% or lower, but I have no chance to get it that dry in Hawaii except when I take it out of a kiln and ship it right away. Mine is usually 12-14% and I never had problems with stabilizing. As for cocobolo, I agree with Myron - you can stabilize it but you don't have to. To be honest, I never had it stabilized but I understand that an oily wood like cocobolo can seep out oil for weeks after stabilizing, so you may want to rest it for a while. Among the
few handles I made from cocobolo there also were some with metal spacers and I cannot remember any issues. Of course, I would hope to hear back from buyers if there were any later when the handle has adapted to a different climate zone.

Many of the rosewoods will bleed for weeks, months or ???? after being stabilized.
16% moisture is too high to use right away in my opinion.
I may be over cautious, but I would set it aside for another year before using.
A lot of the denser woods will pull themselves apart if forced to dry to quickly.

I don't want to get argumentive.
But.......
All rosewoods dry very slowly.
They are very prone to cracking until dry.
After they are dry they are very durable.
This shows what Cocobolo does when it dries to quickly. I selected this piece because the cracking was more visible.
For Rosewood, 16% is too high.
I suggest setting it aside for at least another year.
If you are making a wa handle you might be able to use it before then.
But scales you you want to be extra cautious.