But, I’m here to tell you about the newest publication from America’s Test Kitchen: Cook’s Science. This is, simply put, an excellent book with chops. Recipes are inspiring. In each is an execution — a lesson learned, i.e., why this recipe works, and what the authors did that didn’t work.

Each recipe has a section dubbed “Practical Science,” which covers the pluses and minuses of an ingredient of the recipe. For example, you can study such things as “soaking brown rice” (should you?), or a “fix for fishy” seafood,” or “why animal fats taste so good.”

Each chapter begins with “How the Science Works,” which is the nitty gritty geek-speak about a specific ingredient. Chapter 25 is “Kale,” where you learn why “The unique flavor of kale exists only after it is chopped, massaged, or chewed.” I learned more about the cells in kale than I think there are cells in kale. There were a lot of “Well, I’ll be …” and “Huh?” and sometimes “Oh, I get it now.” The information presented truly is fascinating — if you are a food lover, like me.

The recipes work and have a beautiful balance of ingredients. You will learn a new technique, or how to perfect a technique you currently employ. Even if you don’t give a hoot about the science, you may be surprised to learn how to correct something you’ve been unhappy about for a long time. This is a book for cooks.

PEN & FORK® is edited and published by Gwen Ashley Walters, a professionally trained chef, cookbook author and food journalist.

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