Case Study: 100% Wetcleaning Facility: Route-only Service

Note: EPA no longer updates this information, but it may be useful as a reference or resource.

Design for the Environment
A Cooperative Project between the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
and the Garment and Textile Care Industry Garment and Textile Care Program

Garment and Textile Care Program

As part of a cooperative effort between the Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) and the professional garment and textile industry,
the EPA Design for the Environment (DfE) Program recognizes the wetcleaning
process (i.e., a water-based cleaning system) as one example of an environmentally-preferable
technology that can effectively clean garments.

Currently, most of the nation's 34,000 commercial drycleaners
use perchloroethylene (perc) as a solvent to clean clothes. Since 1992,
in response to growing health and environmental concerns about perc, EPA
has been working in a voluntary partnership with the drycleaning industry
to reduce exposures to perc. EPA's DfE Garment and Textile Care Program
(GTCP) encourages professional clothes cleaners to explore environmentally-preferable
technologies capable of cleaning garments labeled "dryclean only." Numerous
companies in the garment and textile care industry have begun using the
wetcleaning process to clean all types of fabrics. One company, The Laundry
Club, is a 100 percent wetcleaning facility, utilizing wetcleaning as
the only garment care process.

Company Background

The Laundry Club (TLC) began cleaning garments in August of 1998 in the
Washington D.C. suburb of Leesburg, VA. The company, a family owned and
operated business, began as a route-only service to meet its customers'
everyday laundry needs. As the business began to grow and the customer
base increased, TLC recognized the need to expand their professional cleaning
methods to accommodate those garments that are traditionally drycleaned.
The company's goal was to provide high quality professional garment care
to customers without the health and environmental concerns associated
with traditional drycleaning solvents.

With this criterion in mind, and no prior experience in the garment care
industry, TLC explored various professional cleaning options using the
internet, making phone calls to industry equipment and supply manufacturers,
visiting industry trade shows, and attending educational seminars through
the International Fabricare Institute. Through this research, TLC was
impressed with the benefits of modern wetcleaning relative to traditional
drycleaning. Benefits include the elimination of health and environmental
concerns, the high quality results achievable by profesionally wetcleaning
garments as well as the lower cost of wetcleaning units relative to drycleaning
units. Also, advances in textile manufacturing have created fabrics that
respond well to the wetcleaning process.

The initial training to become a professional wetcleaner was extensive
because it required gaining a knowledge of the fibers and fabrics in addition
to the process itself. TLC asserts that after appropriate and thorough
training, the TLC staff are able to wetclean virtually all types of fabrics,
including woolens, silks, rayons, acetates, linens, cottons, suede, and
leather with excellent results. In addition to those materials, and as
a result of their research, development, and testing, TLC is now successfully
wetcleaning rayon/acetate velvets and rayon/silk velvets (fabrics that
traditionally were not recommended for wetcleaning).

What is Wetcleaning?

Wetcleaning is a professional garment cleaning technique that uses a
combination of specialized detergents and additives and controlled water
temperatures and agitation levels. For large scaled production, the process
requires four elements: computer-controlled washers and dryers, specialized
detergents and additives, tensioning finishing equipment, and trained,
skilled personnel. Unlike conventional washing machines, state-of-the-art
commercial wetcleaning units are computerized machines that can be programmed
for various functions, including agitation, water temperature, water volume,
and the addition of specialized detergents. For garment pressing to be
most effective, proper drying and finishing equipment, which includes
standard equipment utilized by most professional cleaners, is

Cleaning Agents at The Laundry Club

Wetcleaning does not pose the environmental and health concerns associated
with traditional drycleaning. Not only does it use water as it's primary
solvent, but all cleaning agents used at TLC are environmentally-preferable
products. Typically, wetcleaners use three separate cleaning agent products.
These include specialized detergents, conditioners, and sizing. TLC uses
SmartCare, an all-in-one product made by Kleerwite® CHEMICAL in conjunction
with its cleaning process. TLC has found that the SMART Care all-in-one
product is successful in reducing water usage due to shorter rinse cycles.
Also, this product has virtually eliminated the need for post-spotting.

One issue that wetcleaners face is the difficulty of removing grease and
oil-based stains. TLC injects Nature-LT, a degreaser made by Kleerwite®
CHEMICAL, in conjunction with SMART CareT during the wetcleaning process
to enhance grease and stain removal. The amount of each product injected
is adjusted by manual controls on the wetcleaning unit as appropriate
for each fabric type, the soil level,

Wetcleaning Machinery

TLC uses a 60-pound Unimac wetcleaning machine with a microprocessor
and customized computer programs. The machine is fitted with a re-circulation
pump and injection system for cleaning agents. There are also smaller
wetcleaning machines available for low volume loads.

Drying and Finishing

Depending on fabric type, TLC may place garments in a 75-lb UniMac or
a 50-lb Heubsch dryer for a brief period of time. The drying time is determined
by the fabric content. The garments are then air-dried to complete the
drying process. TLCs pressing and finishing equipment includes two
standard professional cleaning finishing machines: a Forenta utility press
and a Forenta pants press. In addition, TLC employs two specialized finishing
machines: a Hi-Steam Tensioning Pants Topper, and a Hi-Steam Tensioning
Form Finisher, which were developed primarily for wetcleaning. Employees
at TLC with previous experience in the drycleaning industry find the overall
finishing process for wetcleaned garments to take no longer than for drycleaned
garments. The most significant difference is associated with structured
garments, which may require an estimated 5-10 percent increase in finishing
time as compared to traditional drycleaning.

Operation:

The Unimac washer and dryer, and all finishing equipment used at TLC
require minimal maintenance. They are maintained according to manufacturers'
directions.

Performance

No independent performance testing has been conducted or is being
planned. The performance information that is presented in this case study
was provided by representatives of The Laundry Club.

TLC has the ability to clean 100 percent of garments that are normally
drycleaned, using automated, state-of-the-art wetcleaning techniques and
skilled personnel. TLC can wetclean virtually all garment types ranging
from casual wear to business suits and formal wear and fabric types including
woolens, silks, rayons, acetates, linens, cottons, suede, and leather
 all with excellent results.

Garments cleaned by traditional drycleaning methods are not subjected
to the same conditions as those garments that are immersed and agitated
in water. Although, modern wetcleaning machines have eliminated most of
the problems that can stem from immersion in water, certain fabrics can
shrink, certain dyes can bleed, and fabric texture can be altered just
as they can in traditional solvents; neither method is perfect. The primary
difference between the two technologies is that drycleaning relies on
solvents such as perc and specialized detergents to clean clothes, while
wetcleaning uses water and environmentally-preferable detergents, thus
presenting less risk to human health and the environment.

Problem stains. TLC asserts that the wetcleaning process is
superior at removing water-based stains such as those caused by food.

Problem fabrics. TLC is now successfully cleaning fabrics
that traditionally were not recommended for wetcleaning such as rayon/acetate
velvets and rayon/silk velvets. The only fabric that TLC does not attempt
to wetclean is antique satin, which is different from regular satin,
and is rarely encountered anymore.

Garment damage. TLC asserts that there are no cases of garment
damage at The Laundry Club.

Shrinkage/Wrinkling. The TLC process and perc processes rarely
result in shrinkage or wrinkling. TLC asserts that the all-in-one detergent
helps to limit shrinkage to less than one percent of all garments cleaned.

Prespotting. Both the TLC process and perc processes require
about the same amount of prespotting.

Cycle Time-Drying: The drying time is determined by the fabric
content. Depending on fabric type, TLC may place the garments in a dryer
for a brief period of time. The garments are then air-dried to complete
the drying process.

Pilling. As a result of air drying, the TLC process substantially
reduces pilling.

Labor and Finishing: TLC indicates that employees with previous
experience in the drycleaning industry find the overall finishing process
for wetcleaned garments to take no longer than for drycleaned garments.

Adhesives. TLC asserts that for all garments containing adhesives,
the adhesives are thoroughly tested to ensure that they are water insoluble
before being wetcleaned.

Environmental, Safety & Health Impacts

The environmental, human health, and safety impacts resulting from the
wetcleaning process are less than the impacts associated with the use
of traditional solvents. Wetcleaning wastewater, if left untreated and
discharged directly into a lake or stream, could pose risks to aquatic
life. However, it is normally the case that such wastewater is discharged
into a public sewer system and treated at the local publicly owned wastewater
treatment facility in accordance with Federal Clean Water Act requirements.
Under these normal conditions, risks to aquatic life are minimized. Potential
human health and safety impacts are essentially limited to minor skin
and eye irritation. Skin and eye exposure to the cleaning agents can be
minimized through adherence to proper operational procedures.

The wetcleaning process does not produce hazardous wastes, hazardous
air emissions, greenhouse gases, or ozone depleting substances. The spotting
and cleaning agents are nonsolvent formulations that are biodegradable
and generally benign. Water consumption at TLC using one (all-in-one)
cleaning agent in conjunction with the wetcleaning process (approximately
100 gallons per 30-lb load) is less than that associated with a three-product
wetcleaning process. Also, compliance with federal and state hazardous
waste regulations is eliminated and the regulatory burden associated with
wetceleaning is much less than the regulatory burden associated with traditional
drycleaning solvents.

Capital and Operational Costs

The cost for modern wetcleaning machines range from approximately $12,000
to $37,000 for a washer and dryer set (30 to 50 pound capacity). In comparison,
the costs for a perc machine of comparable capacity range from approximately
$32,000 to $47,000 and the costs for a comparable petroleum machine range
from $35,000 to over $100,000. Specialized finishing (tensioning) equipment
is as an essential component of the wetcleaning process. There are two
basic types of wetcleaning finishing equipment, form finishers and pants
toppers. The cost of each of the two equipment types range from approximately
$6,000 to $12,000. This price range is comparable to that of traditional
drycleaning pressing equipment. An investment in specialized wetcleaning
finishing equipment will reduce labor costs associated with the finishing
process and pay for itself over time.
The Unimac washer and dryer, and two pieces of Hi-Steam finishing equipment
at TLC cost just under $35,000 total. However, there are a number of companies
that sell wetcleaning and tensioning finishing equipment and for the most
accurate and up-to-date wetcleaning equipment costs and information contact
the individual wetcleaning equipment supply companies.

Operational costs at TLC for the calendar year 2000 account for the following
proportions of total sales: approximately 14% in supplies (detergents
and additives), 26% in labor costs, 20% in equipment leases and maintenance,
and 9% in electrical and natural gas costs. There are no solvent supply
and
disposal costs associated with the wetcleaning system used at TLC.

Impact on Business

According to TLC, the wetcleaning process enables their company to provide
quality professional garment care services to customers at competitive
prices without the environmental, health, and safety impacts associated
with traditional drycleaning solvents. Relative to traditional drycleaning,
the environmental regulatory burden associated with wetcleaning is significantly
reduced. The need to comply with the numerous federal and state regulations
that apply to perc and petroleum solvents, as well as federal and state
water quality regulations, is eliminated.

What is DfE?

EPAs Design for the Environment (DfE) Program is a voluntary initiative
that forges cooperative partnerships among government, industry, academia,
and environmental groups. One of the primary objectives is to incorporate
environmental concerns into the design and redesign of products, process,
and technical management systems.

The goal of the Garment and Textile Care Program is to provide cleaners
with the information that can help them run their facilities in a way
that is more environmentally sound, safe for workers, and more cost effective.
To accomplish this goal, the program utilizes EPA expertise and leadership
to evaluate the environmental and human health risks, performance, and
cost tradeoffs among clothes cleaning technologies. DfE disseminates information
to all interested parties and assist businesses in implementing environmentally-preferable
technologies.