The back 3 plugs are a pain in the $%##Q% to get out. Yes u do have to remove some components. I have a 98, I believe the procedure is the same: Use a 3/8 drive ratchet, w different extensions (short) and a flex attachment that pivots in different directions, may help, Make sure engine is cold to begin, use quality platinum plugs because u don't want to do this again anytime soon, remove serpentine belt, loosen 4 alternator bracket bolts, push alt. to back of vehicle, remove #1 spark plug. For plugs # 3 and 5 remove resonator and intake strut bolt @ the cylinder head, swing strut out of the way, remove plugs. Even after doing this it is a difficult job, done by feel mostly. A mirror might help a little. Make sure u coat the plug threads w/ anti-seize compound (light coat) to allow for future removal. If u don't , the plugs can fuse to the aluminum threads, and then u will REALLY have a tough job. good luck countrycurt0

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If you have the 3.0 liter you can rep,ce the air cleaner housing from the back side of the engine and get to the rear spark plugs.
The other two v-6 options the rear plugs need to be done from underneath the vehicle.

Usually there is a diagram under the hood that shows the firing order, dist cap cyl #'s etc... If you can't find one on the van, I recommend asking the parts store for a diagram of all the information you need. This information is usually just a print out away for just about any parts store and they're more than happy to give it to you if it helps them sell parts!. I don't trust everything I see on the internet! Good luck!

Joe s anwers is good and I can add a step to give greater access . Place car in nuetral with wheels at rear of car loosely blocked { 1 - 2 inches before tire hits front block } . Then acquire 2 ton Logistic strap { used by trucking / moving vans to strap items in place - hooks on each end with ractheting device to tighten up } Place car in Nuetral and Hook one end to front of motor eye / bracket for engine removal - Now hook other end to Radiator crossmember support { near washer bottle works } . Tighten rachet mechanism handle and watch engine get pulled forward allowing you 2 inches more of firewall access to get plugs out . Car must be in Nuetral for above -Then Caution Fully Block Wheels in case Strap lets go while working against firewall .

P0301 is a DTC code that indicates a misfire to cylinder one. It could be a bad spark plug, spark plug wire, rotor and cap, a dirty fuel injector, or the worst a bad head gasket. Cylinder 1 is the first cylinder on the drivers side, towards the front. Start with the simple and check the spark plug wire and add fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank. Good luck and hope this helps you get you van running 100% soon. If that did not help, then your going to have to do a tune up by replacing the spark plugs, wires and rotor and cap. You can get all the parts you need at Auto Zone and they can give you the step by step to get the job done with common tools in under 2 hours of your time. Keep me posted, be glad to know you got your van running 100% again soon.

There are a few ways to doing this, and it takes time and a few band aids. You can remove the alternator to give you some room to access the rear spark plug with an extension and swivel spark plug socket. You can also get to the plugs from under neath if you have a ramp and long arm, an extension and swivel spark plug socket will help. You may have to use a 2x4 to wedge the engine to give you some room if you have larger arms. The other way is to tilt the engine forward by disconnecting the two top engine mounts. First replace the 3 front plugs and wire one at a time so you don't cross them. After you have changed the front plugs have a friend help you. Make sure the parking brakes are on and disconnect the two top engine mounts, release the parking brakes and let the transmission in park. Push the van forward slowly to tilt the engine forward far enough to give you room with out pushing it to far in to the radiator. Put the parking brakes on again to keep the van from rolling back and place a block of wood behind and in front of the rear wheels. Don't want to lose an arm. Replace the rear plugs with extensions and a swivel spark plug socket. Note, your going to have to replace the spark plug wire since the rear ones are really hard to remove and pulling on then will destroy them, not worth the headache trying to save them. Use platinum plugs so you can get 100.000 miles before you have to change them again so use anti-seize on the plugs so you can remove them again. Good luck and hope this helps, I personally go from under the van.

To access you rear plugs, you need to disconnect the front top engine mount, then put the vehicle in neutral and pull the engine forward (with a large pry bar) and lock the engine to the mount base using the engine mount bolt. Don't forget to chock your wheels so the vehicle doesn't roll away. And really, the job isn't difficult at all.