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I recently ordered some Warp Feed hose from the AGD store to try some other setups, and I got the new thinner black hose, but I didn't get the O-rings that were supposed to friction fit them. Any chance I can get two of those sent to me, AGD?

you need the 12v regulater for the board(which is actually rated for 18v but it's not stable) you can run 18v straight to the motor with no problems, but I'll tell you right now, your not going to sneak up on anyone with how loud the motor will spin.

If you bypassed the board and ran 18v directly to the motor (activated by an Intelliframe - roller switch setup), how many balls would it spit out with each trigger pull?

Since each trigger pull is extremely brief in time, how many turns would the friction disc actually make with each pulse? Since the board is bypassed, I'm guessing the dwell time would be extremely short as well. Would it be enough to consistantly feed?

yes, you CAN bypass the board and go straight to the motor, BUT not with an Iframe hook-up(that needs to board to close the signal). It can only be done with a marker that sends a pulse(an Emarker) like the Emag.

If you ran the 16.8 volts from the Emag battery straight to the warp motor, you'd get something in the low-mid thirties. This is obviously overkill. No hopper can come close to keeping up with that so it's worthless, the 12v mod is perfect cause the HALO B can feed just under the 12v's abilities. Also, not having the warp board means that you will have to run your Emag in Emode all the time and not only will your battery drain twice as fast but once it's dead and you switch to manuel mode, you won't be able to load because you will have taken out your vib. control. (did I mention you'll be able to hear the warp spin from other cities? THAT' HOW LOUD IT IS! lol j/k)

I personally use the same oil I use on my marker
cover my finger in oil
take the bottom hose-warp adaptor off
stick my finger in
use the handy white button to turn the disks
I repeat till both disks are nice and slippery all the way around

Although these results are subjective by nature, I believe that after 5 samples of data, a good idea of what is happening becomes predictable and fairly consistant (i.e. you get the picture of which is faster than the other).

How'd you time the test? If it was for more than a fraction of a second then the 12v warp will only feed as fast as the HALO because if your using good sized paint and lubed disks, the disks should slip past the balls(it's unnoticeable) while it's waiting for the HALO to catch up so it's only as fast as the HALO.

leaving batteries in the warp will drain something like 4volts a month(slower with a bigger cell) so yes fresh batteries are key

I just purchased a used Warp Feed. After I cleaned it and got it back together I hooked it up to my RT and was tunning it in when I noticed smoke coming from the board. I then really tried to remove as much paint as possible and tried it again. I still noticed the smoke. I then felt around and the top left... thingy ?(Q1) was realy hot. When the motor is running the... thingy ? cools off. I am using a 9V batterie.
Is the board on the edge of burning out or just Q1? Is this normal? Could I glue a small heat sink onto Q1?

I do not have a Iframe, what do I need to do, to hook up a micro switch to activat the Warp Feed?

which way does the 90 degree adapter go on, I'm trying to set mine up to use on an angel tomarrow yet am cluless and can't get this to go. If somebody could post a pic or explain to me how I get the 90 adapter to work. Thanks

I got a new warp two days ago, and after using it all day on Sunday, I noticed that the friction disks aren't quite straight anymore - the bottom one seems to be a little bit warped - not hugely noticable, but you can see it's not straight anymore. Is this normal?

CNC9D
if the board hasnt completely fried by now, you need to get all of the paint out of the board and see if that does the trick. If it does or has fried, the easiest thing to do would be to buy a new board.

Shirow
as long as it's loading you should be fine.

SI|ENT|3O|3
yeap, same as you would a revy. Dont worry about the sensor, it wont ruin. Just make sure it's dry before trying to use it again.

JodoCast
on some warps, the 12v mod needs a capacitor(100uf) to get rid of the "noise" that gets through the regulator, that should do the trick.