I wanted this sweater to be the perfect throw-it-on style for first fall -- the kind of go-to piece that we all want in our closet. Here in New England, the weather can turn from toasty to freezing in the course of a few days (and then back again), so those go-to fall jackets need to be super versatile. Warm (but not too warm), able to be dressed up or down, and just the teensiest bit rustic. The pockets are functional and cute at the same time, and inspired the name as well -- the working title for this sweater was "Jackie's Kangaroo-pocket cardi".

Jackaroo is comfortable, goes with everything, and has just enough polished touches to pull an outfit together. It is extremely easy to modify; vertical darts are used for waist shaping, and the pieced construction lets you handle one modification at a time and provides the structure needed for a jacket. It is worked in pieces from the bottom up, with in-line pockets that are finished with seams. The use of applied i-cord on the unfinished edgings of the sweater gives an unobtrusive but neat, finished appearance to those edges. It also stabilizes the openings, provides structure, and forms the neatest-looking afterthought buttonholes you'll ever see!

Of course, a perfect fall sweater requires the perfect fall yarn, and Green Mountain's Maine Organic definitely fits the bill -- it's a perfect match for this design. It's sturdy, it's soft without being smooth, and will stand up to decades of hard wear. It is a joy to work with, and I highly recommend it.

Recommended needle size[always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1 set US #7/4.5mm straight or circular needles, or size needed to obtain gauge 1 set US #7/4.5mm double-point needles 24-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle for neckline, optional

PATTERN NOTES[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Unless otherwise specified, decreases should be worked to match the slant of the edge being shaped, as follows: For left-slanting edges: On RS rows, k1, ssk, work to end; on WS rows, p1, ssp, work to end.For right-slanting edges: On RS rows, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on WS rows, work to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. Increases should also be worked to match the slant of the edge being shaped: For right-slanting edges: Work 1 st, m1R, work to end. For left-slanting edges: Work to last st, m1L, work 1 st.

Switch to St st on the outside of the marker, preserving center rib panel, and work 2 rows even.

You will work the pocket stitches, then the body behind the pocket, then attach the pocket to the body and complete the front. The sides of the pocket and inside pocket bottom will be sewn during finishing. Please read ahead before continuing.

Next row [RS]: Work 2 sts, work next 26[27, 29, 30, 32, 35, 36, 38, 39, 41, 42, 45] sts and place them on new needle; place initial 2, and remaining, sts on holder.
You will now work pocket.
Work even on these sts as established until pocket measures 2 inches from bottom edge.

Work as established until piece measures 8.5 inches from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Next row [RS]: Seal pocket: Work 2 sts, then work held pocket sts together with lining sts in pattern as established, then work to end. 31[33, 35, 37, 39, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 57] sts rem and no stitches are on holder.
Work even until piece measures 9 inches from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Work ribbing as established for 2.5 inches, ending with a WS row.
Switch to St st on the outside of the marker, preserving center rib panel, and work 2 rows even.
You will work the pocket stitches, then the body behind the pocket, then attach the pocket to the body and complete the front. The sides of the pocket and inside pocket bottom will be sewn during finishing. Please read ahead before continuing.

Next row [RS]: Work 7[8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] sts, work next 26[27, 29, 30, 32, 35, 36, 38, 39, 41, 42, 45] sts and place them on new needle; place initial sts and remaining 2 sts on holder.
You will now work pocket.

Work even on these sts as established until pocket measures 2 inches from bottom edge.

Set in sleeves and sew using mattress stitch and smooth yarn.
Sew side and underarm seams using mattress stitch and smooth yarn.

Neckline
With RS facing and beginning at held sts for right neck, pick up and knit sts around neckline as follows: Work held 12[12, 12, 12, 12, 18, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 18] sts, pick up and knit 12 sts along right front neck edge, 7 sts along back diagonal neck edge, work held 19[21, 21, 23, 25, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 29, 31] sts along center back, pick up and knit 7 sts along back diagonal neck edge, pick up and knit 12 sts along left front neck edge, and work held sts for left neck. Work even in established rib pattern at front edges and center back and 2x2 rib until collar measures 2 inches from picked up edge.
BO all sts.

PLACKETS
Try on the sweater, marking desired button and button-hole placements with openable stitch markers or safety pins. You will now trim the button plackets with applied i-cord, detaching the i-cord for 3 rows when you reach your buttonhole markers.

Left placket
On the left front, with RS facing and beginning at neck edge, pick up one stitch in 4 out of every 5 rows along placket edge, to hem of sweater. Break yarn.

Using double-pointed needles, CO 4 sts. You will now work an applied i-cord along the edge. Row 1 [RS]: K2 on dpns, sl1 knitwise, k first stitch from circular needle onto dpn, psso. Slide sts to the right-hand side of the dpn. I-cord row [RS]: Using the other dpn, K2, sl1 knitwise, k second stitch from circular needle onto dpn, psso. Slide sts to the right-hand side of the dpn. Continue in this manner until all picked up stitches have been worked and you have a neat edge on the cardigan opening. Cut yarn and neatly sew in i-cord ends.

Right placket
On the right front, with RS facing and beginning at hem edge, pick up one stitch in 4 out of every 5 rows along placket edge, skipping 3 rows each time you come to a buttonhole marker, until you reach the neck edge. Break yarn.

Using double-pointed needles, CO 4 sts. You will now work an applied i-cord along the edge. Row 1 [RS]: K2 on dpns, sl1 knitwise, k first stitch from circular needle onto dpn, psso. Slide sts to the right-hand side of the dpn.
I-cord row [RS]: Using the other dpn, K2, sl1 knitwise, k second stitch from circular needle onto dpn, psso. Slide sts to the right-hand side of the dpn. Continue in this manner until all picked up stitches have been worked, working the i-cord unattached for 3 rows when you reach stitch markers (where you did not pick up stitches), then re-attaching to the next picked-up stitch.
Cut yarn and neatly sew in i-cord ends.
Sew buttons across from buttonholes on left front.

Amy Herzog is passionate about sweaters people love to wear. She is the author of Knit to Flatter (STC Craft, 2013) and the creator of the popular "Fit to Flatter" tutorials. She teaches knitting classes across the country, and her figure-flattering pattern designs have been published in Twist Collective, Knitscene, and in the book Knitting It Old School.