First Look at the Village’s New 4 a.m. Kebab Garden, Ottomans Café

The nook next to the entrance of the West 4th Street subway station that once housed a newsstand and then became Kudo Beans has been taken over by a longtime manager at Istanbul’s Namli Kebab. The neighborhood wasn’t exactly starving for another gyro spot, but we’re assured this one uses “the highest-quality meat” (the café bills itself as “fine Turkish cuisine”), so at least you know the cone isn’t straight off the shelf of Restaurant Depot.

Photo: Kate Devine

We’re also told that desserts such as baklava are homemade (the chefs are both veterans of Istanbul restaurants, with some cruise-ship experience to boot). But the real lure here is a back garden that, along with the café itself, is open from 10 a.m. till 2 a.m. on weekdays and till 4 a.m. on weekends. It may well be the most dignified place to wolf down that don’t-want-to-wake-up-feeling-awful falafel. You can check out the menu, and order delivery, at SeamlessWeb.