Okra lovers are assumed to have developed their passion for the pods via regional osmosis: “We’re from the South; of course we love okra.” Not true. In fact, most Southern treatments of the oft-maligned vegetable could be construed as a deliberate effort to ensure no one will ever like it. Overcooked in tomato-based stews to bring out its slimy texture; pickled in vinegar to give it all the appeal of a rubber eraser; deep-fried to obscure any hints of greenness-is it any wonder okra suffers such ignominy?

I grew up loving okra in spite of the brutalities heaped upon it by cooks back home in Texas. As a chef, I have what I think is the perfect way to cook okra-which is much like any other green vegetable. I give it a quick pan sauté in a hot skillet. Timing is essential, as a couple minutes too long will encourage the unappealing stringy quality. What comes out is a crisp, green, crunchy, yet tender green vegetable that is the essence of summer.

Pod Pointers

Okra pods are best when they are young. They should be small, bright green, free of brown spots or scars and have tender-not woody-stems.

It’s easy to test the texture of a perfect specimen. A pristine okra pod should feel exactly like the top of a puppy’s nose-tender and pliable with a soft velvety fuzz.

Fresh is best, but you can store okra, unwashed and untrimmed, up to several days in a loosely wrapped plastic bag in the vegetable crisper. Wash okra just before using it.