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Here's CZ3 straight out of the factory. I think thus far I did alright on the paint job. The grey is a little "brush strokey" but seems to look fine. I'm debating about whether to add the dirt and grime since it turned out better than I thought.

Lookin good! Are the cogs white or silver? Its often hard to tell on pictures and I've also heard there's a debate as to whether they are supposed to be white or silver.

Interesting question, I hadn't thought about that, I wonder what the answer is. Based on the photo, it looks like the cogs are the same as the paint stripes and cheeks, which looks silver but not the same as the chin's silver.

Paint on your CZ-3 looks good. I see what you mean about the "brush strokey" stuff, but look at the source material, it's not computer-perfect either. If you don't love it, take it back off, or fill it in, that's the good thing about paint. Keep in mind, you will always see the flaws that you put in because that's how artists' minds work, but don't forget to see the forest for the trees.

I'd go weathered for accuracy, the oddity of the sculpt calls for age, and it's a bit plain as a design in some spots, so something to keep it visually interesting in those areas would be my choice.

Darth Vader is becoming the Mickey Mouse of Star Wars.

"In Brooklyn, a castle, is where dwell I"

The use of a lightsaber does not make one a Jedi, it is the ability to not use it.

Lookin good! Are the cogs white or silver? Its often hard to tell on pictures and I've also heard there's a debate as to whether they are supposed to be white or silver.

AA cogs are white, he said they were white on the helmets. Trooperbay also sells white cogs. Only text can be white or silver. The Laws AT-AT and TIE Imperial cogs are in fact reflective red and white, really cool in the dark.

Thanks for the compliments guys. I'll keep the grey the way it is since its not going to get any better than that probably. JT, your right about it being rather plain. Basically from the forehead all the way to the back is just white so it probably needs a little "character" in those areas.

I've always thought the cogs were white, but there are some who insist they are silver. If you look at the actual TIE helmets on starwarshelmets.com, they sure seem white to me.

Here's the first part of the weathering. What do you guys think? I thought an orange-ish type of sand weathering would look good along with brown and black smudges here and there. I hope its not too orange as this is the main weathering. The flash really brings out the dirt. Its actually more subtle than this. Honest opinions are recommendations welcome.

Looks nice. Curious, what was wrong with the old wiring? Was it not quite accurate?

I do plan on adding some more colors to the weathering. I also plan on doing an oil leak coming out the back of the head. The flash photography really makes the weathering look alot more orange than it actually is. I might try taking some pics without the flash.

Yeah, on comparing the 2 blaster photos, it's obvious there was too much wiring packed in too many coils on the first one, the second image is much better.

As for CZ-3 there, it's a good start. The orange isn't quite enough, by itself it reminds me of old bones, especially the back looks a lot like the way skulls look when aged, and it's got some directionality happening which should be minimized in most places that are smooth. My eye says that adding a little yellow might offset it, but I think Serg is right that brown would work better, even charcoal or gray could be better at balancing it out, especially around the flange where it's got that heavier build-up. The build-up is my favorite area, but it is too red and monotone. Check out a photo I took at the beach last month, the railing is white concrete but the sand and brush have worn it towards the middle very orange AND degrees of gray to black: http://www.jtreviews.com/photos/mb-5...-1958.jpg.html
So you're definitely on a good track, it's an authentic color for sand and desert-style brush, but it's not the only color.

How did you end up applying it? I'm guessing a combination of sponge dabbing and smearing, with possibly additional smearing via light brush.

If the flash is too bright to give an accurate idea, try backing the camera away from the subject and then zooming in so the flash is further away, I don't remember what kind of camera you have but I find that helps the most with point-n-shoot cameras and even DSLR in-body flashes. If you do no-flash, I'd recommend set the camera on a solid surface, setting it to a timer shot, and setting the exposure for half a second or more (the timer allows for any movement from you pressing the shutter to subside before firing; while the long exposure allows for richer and more accurate light, although it may be blown out if it goes too long, so you'd want to toy with the time).

Darth Vader is becoming the Mickey Mouse of Star Wars.

"In Brooklyn, a castle, is where dwell I"

The use of a lightsaber does not make one a Jedi, it is the ability to not use it.