An insider's guide to Paris

1) Where to stay…

La Réserve
Paris

The newest, slickest, snazziest place to stay is La Reserve, a
croissant's-throw from the Champs-Elysées. This Belle Epoque
mansion has smart-as-a-pin rooms, marble fireplaces galore and
a hushed hideaway vibe. Or if you'd rather kick up your
heels, head to newly revamped Les Bains, THE
nightlife spot in the Eighties and Nineties, and hang out where
once David Bowie, Andy Warhol, Grace Jones and the Stones
cavorted.

2) Where to eat

Poulette

You'd be MAD not to head to the critic-approved gems to
dine à la mode. Septime has a waiting list as long as
your arm, but don't all the best places? Book way in advance
to be seen at this Michelin-starred hotspot. Poulette bistro in the 2nd will fix your
steak-frites craving (plus the beautiful art
deco bar has to be seen) or for something lighter, Dersou offers an awesome experimental
tasting menu with cocktail pairings. Speaking of aperitifs... you
can't beat the rooftop of Le Perchoir for a smart crowd
and panoramic views of the city.

3) What to do when it rains

La Pagode

Like London, Paris is prone to the odd drizzle. Fear not! There
are plenty of places to dry off your Burberry mac. Carreau du
Temple is a sort of creative-arts place
and always a hub of activity. From yoga festivals to dance classes
(the Lindy Hop is a good bet to show off at forthcoming
Twenties-themed parties) and live concerts, there are endless
ways to occupy yourself come rain or shine. Done all the
art? Take shelter in the Natural History
Museum's conservatory of tropical flora and fauna,
then hop to the La Mosquée restaurant (inside the Grand Mosquée de Paris)
to have some traditional mint tea and the best couscous in
Paris. The French love their flicks and when they go, they go
in style. La
Pagode's Thirties-style theatre and candlelit garden is the
only place to see some Truffaut.

4) Where to get your culture fix (that's not
the Louvre)

Do like the locals do and skip the crowds and queues of the big
museums for a more unique culture experience. Fondation Louis
Vuitton has all the glamour of the brand, with Frank
Gehry's cloud-like structure playing host to impressive touring
collections, including Matisse, Munch and Bacon. Shiny and new
after a five-year renovation, the Picasso
Museum is a spacious and airy setting; be sure to
head to the top floor to see the artist's personal collection. Not
a fan of the impersonal backdrops of large museums?Musée Gustave
Moreau is the antidote. Immerse yourself in the
collection of drawings and watercolours in the artist's
beautiful original home.

5) Where to pick up your picnic
essentials

France's answer to Fortnum & Mason, Le Grand
Epicerie is where to load your cart with picnic
goodness. It's part of Le Bon Marché department store in the
chic 6th -browse over 30,000 of the world's best gourmet
treats.

6) Secret gardens to picnic in

Buttes Chaumont

So you've got your hamper stuffed full of
gourmand delights, where to enjoy it without the masses?
Sidestep the Tuileries and its selfie-sticks for a secret
garden. Buttes Chaumont in the 19th is hardly unknown,
but remains a blissful oasis - recline by the water and take in the
romance of the clifftop temple and grottos. Or are you in the
Marais and exhausted from excessive credit-card
damage? Jardin des
Rosiers-Joseph-Migneret has plenty of quiet charm to
revive yourself for round two. Finally, the spectacular
Japanese Garden in Musée Albert Kahn is worth the journey to
Boulogne-Billancourt for a bit of zen amongst the cherry
blossoms.