Lately managed to finally release CX rings with XX1 style tooth shape. This gives you basically opportunity to ride without bash and chainkeeper.

For now only 42T in 110 and 130BCD but in few weeks also 38T in both diameters.

Just to make a note. Such design will retain the chain really well in almost every condition. But in very sticky mud there is still possibility to drop it (due to clogging up the spaces in the ring). But in all fairness in such mud everything else fails as well:)

10 and 11 speed works. It's same tooth profile as my mtb version and i have tested it with shimano and sram chains both 10 and 11 spd.If used with 9 speed cassette then 10spd chain must be used. It will work great as well since 10spd chain works actually better on 9spd cassette than original chain for that. 10spd also stretches less because outer plates are not stamped into funny shape like on 9spd.

yes and it works.I have also few testers on mtb who use non-clutch long rear mech by the purpose to see what can happen.

The only situation you may drop the chain in CX is really sticky mud. You know, the one which glues up your free space in the fork or the stays and stick to your shoes building up 5cm platforms:). In such conditions chain has too much gunk on it so it does not fit well to the tooths which are shaped close to chain profile. Anything other than that should be no problem. Short rear mech cage (most regular road ones), well trimmed chain is enough.

My Sram spiderless chainrings are not narrow-wide and i make clear statement on my web of the fact that there is possibility to drop a chain on that ring when using no chain guide. But many people are very successful with that one even (honestly) - look at BikeRumor test: http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/07/18/first-impressions-absolute-blacks-sram-direct-mount-spiderless-chainrings/#more-63277So i think it's more to user setup and riding style than a ring itself. Based on my experience right now most people drop the chain when they use long cage rear mech and too long chain. Most people in fact do not know that you have to shorten the chain correctly(!) with single chainring up front. So from time to time i do get unhappy customers. But usually after small discussion we sort it in most cases.

I can only guarantee no chain drops with my XX1 style tooth profile like i have on my 104BCD rings and these CX ones. Up to date out of all users all over the world i know about 5-6 drops. In 99% of cases it's really bad weather. Same thing you can see on original XX1 on World Cup races - drops occur only in really big mud.

Super stoked to finally see this for CX but still nervous about the possibility of dropping a chain, particularly with a bad bounce from a tumble or bad barrier hop. What set up are people using with these - getting rid of chainguards and drop stops altogether or keeping one or the other? I'm looking at putting the new style ring on my bike and my wife's but a dropped chain hurt more than the extra weight, particularly if it gets jammed in the process (something my wife seems to do). I'd love to strip all guards and clean it up down there.

I've been using a 42tooth XX1 style ring made by FETHA components in Melbourne. I'm using it with S700 hydro levers and an X.0 type 2 short cage rear mech. No dropped chains yet despite filthy muddy courses last weekend. I did drop it once when using a Rival rear derailleur. The increased cage tension of the X.0 type 2 mech seems to have eliminated that problem. The extra tension made the shifting a little slow in the bigger cassette cogs though. I remedied this by adding an extra two links to the chain...wrap around ring and big cog of cassette plus 4 links versus the usual two. This is the method for setting up XX1 drivetrains so it makes sense that it should be the same for this particular setup.

Received a black 130 mm BCD 42 yesterday. It looks very good. I am only not sure if I will mount it on the inner or outer position of an Sram Force crank. Probably the inner position gives the best chainline, it only looks a bit poor with the silver tabs.

no chance to make spiderless in such big tooth count i am afraid. It will be flexy like a piece of plastic. That's why my biggest rings on spiderless version is 36T.I have been using spiderless 42T carbon-Ti ring for a while in my mtb and i was really not happy with the flex i get. So i decided i will not make my own rings in such big diameter in spiderless. 130 or 110 mounting holes is a lot better choice - believe me.

Super_fast - get a permanent marker and put some color on the tabs:) i have seen lots of people doing this and it works (looks good)

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