burly

Finally got this one. Reaching into the Masochist crack or the wide crack out left are off route. Not sure how you could call this 5.8. Harder for me than "Powell Face" or "One Cut Above". I think V4 might be fair. May be a little easier for tall guys. Very cool "tweener" problem.

Wild and fun

But not safe for a lead. 5.10 smears get you to the first bolt. A piece of gear might protect you from the talus, but it'd be pretty far away and to the side at that point. The bolt protects a lunge (for shorter folks anyway) to a sharp crimp and the start of some sustained, technical climbing. The moves are consistently thin and hard to the end, well above the second bolt. The addition of a couple of bolts to this would make it a quality, stout lead, but as it stands, it's destined for obscurity. Significantly harder than other 10.c's on the crag. 5.10d/11a R/X range in my book.