Use only quality microfiber towels that you've washed before the first use, no tags or labels on the cloths...and as others have stated, read, read, read. I got a lot of excellent info from DetailedImage's website

Thanks for the info on the clear bra joenjulie. I'm just trying to weigh whether it's worth it or if I should just risk it and get the jeep touched up if I need it. There's a shop where I'm at that quoted me for between $500-600 for their basic clear bra install. One uses the Xpel clear bra with the 10 year warranty and the other uses another brand (can't remember what he said) and it only has a 5 year warranty. The one with the 5 year warranty is $100 less because its with the dealer that I ordered my jeep from and they're giving me a discount. I may try and use that as leverage to see if the installer that uses the Xpel clear bra will match that price. I still have some time to think about it since my Jeep won't be here for a while.

I want to thank everyone that has given me their input on doing this. I did alot of reading and video viewing on DI and AdamsForums. I bought all brand new stuff for this, here is a list of everything I got (most ordered from DI).

Little recommendation for drying, get a good detailer...chem guys V7 or BF Poly Spray and mist a little on your towel when you dry so you don't have a dry towel rubbing the surface. I also take off my hose nozzle(after I mist the water and check out the water beading), and run the water over the paint to get it to sheet off, and you should have minimal drying to do. Good luck.

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If you were born here, you're American, no colors, no races...know your heritage and be proud of it, but act like an American, or go to the nearest coast or border...AND LEAVE!!

I use an electric leaf blower...it works amazingly if you're the type to keep your vehicle waxed. The best part is that it gets all the water out from inside the sideview mirrors and out of lug nut holes, etc. I follow that then with joenjulie's method of misting a MF towel with a good quick detailer product and soaking up anything that remains.

seems no matter how much I go around the mirrors and the trim under the windown...leaf blower, compressor with fine tips, put a vacuum on it, I'll come out an hour later, and there's a water streak down the side. I did find that the rubber seals seem to hold some water, and runs down and out by the door opening under the trim in various places(front door different than the back door, etc)...just be carefull blowing too hard with air not to lift up the seals

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If you were born here, you're American, no colors, no races...know your heritage and be proud of it, but act like an American, or go to the nearest coast or border...AND LEAVE!!

Yeah...luckily, I've never had an issue with water getting in the vehicle due to the blower. It's not super strong like a gas one would be, so it's perfect for knocking the water off. Plus the intake has a filter, which is extra peace of mind.

I don't have a drip issue at all with mine, but the wife's Liberty is terrible. No matter what I do, it's dripping a day later under the sideview mirrors and down the door.

I'm thinking about doing wash, ONR, clay, ONR, OptiCoat, then optimum wax and ONR for maintenance throughout. Does this sound about right? What's the process that some of you are doing for detailing? Would it be better to just use a different sealant? I'm new to this, so all the information helps! I've checked out detailed image, autogeekonline, and adams forum, but just want some input on personal experiences with certain products. Great info in this thread!

You have to do an IPA(isopropyl alcohol) wipe before applying sealant like opti coat, you can use some like Chemical Guys EZ Creme Acrylic if you are putting on something like Blackfire. I look at you almost have to try some different products and see what you like...But that can be pricey, look for trial sizes. There are some tried and true products, but you also have to look at what is your goal...a permanent type sealer so you only have to wash and not reapply products, want a 6 month ish sealer so you can change it up, etc., light paint, or dark paint what will make that "pop" or shine if that's important to you. What level of correction does the paint need if any before you seal. You got the general idea.
When I do a dirty car...wheels/tires first, engine cleaning, exhaust tips(basically the dirtiest parts first), wash/rinse, Iron X/rinse, wash and pressure wash rinse, dry, clay, polish if needed, then it depends on what I or the client wants...after polish it may get IPA wipe and wax/sealer, or IPA wipe, glaze and wax/sealer or some combo.

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If you were born here, you're American, no colors, no races...know your heritage and be proud of it, but act like an American, or go to the nearest coast or border...AND LEAVE!!

Well I have a MY 2014 on order so I was planning on putting on the Opti-Coat soon after receiving it. Would I really need to do any kind of polish before the Opti-Coat since its a new car? What's the percent IPA that you recommend using beforehand? The color is going to be billet silver, and I am looking for a solution that I don't need to reapply on a regular basis and is going to be simple to maintain since its my DD. Thanks for the help!