So the diamond pattern on the under dress is not metallic at all? It looks metallic here in the Vanity Fair photo with Mark.

I promise there is no sparkle to it at all. Believe it or not this is just a simple cotton. The color of the "bobbin" threads are just popping because of the dark color of the fabric.

Having also seen this dress in person, I can agree with Pondlife81 that there is no sparkle, it is a white or cream thread that very likely is synthetic, so it did not dye when the fabric was dyed. It does not shine, shimmer, glint, or what have you, it is matte. Sometimes in textiles they use a cheaper thread for a bobbin thread. If the bobbin thread was polyester and the fabric was cotton, the bobbin thread will not dye. Simple chemistry.

That being said, regarding the color of the cloak, it is most definitely brown. Whether it is made 'Vanity Fair Brown' or another shade of brown, the Pantone suggestion is a solid one. Having at least one Pantone (and I see that Pondlife81 put in two) was a DRAMATIC help where the Admiral Holdo dress color was concerned._________________Stay afraid, but do it anyway.

Having seen the dress three times in person, I don't agree about the metallic sparkle. There seems to be some metallic thread in it. I'm not saying that all the embroidery is metallic but, in my opinion, there is some metallic thread used.

Having seen the dress three times in person, I don't agree about the metallic sparkle. There seems to be some metallic thread in it. I'm not saying that all the embroidery is metallic but, in my opinion, there is some metallic thread used.

While we all see things differently and are allowed to have our opinions, requiring the fabric to have a slight sparkle to it or a metallic thread will make it absolutely impossible to make this costume. A Standard is supposed to be a set of guidelines to help create a costume, not make it impossible. Just my two cents._________________Stay afraid, but do it anyway.

There is someone on Bun Squad who found the fabric with the metallic thread so it is out there. But you are right, Lipstkadvntr. This is supposed to make it accessible and buildable to everyone. So a more inclusive approach might be to ask that the fabric have a slight metallic or cream thread running through the diamond pane embroidery.

Of course, thinking about how much trouble people had sourcing the screen accurate Hero Rey fabric, maybe the metallic/cream thread should be optional. It will be hard enough to find a quarter inch embroidered fabric that drapes properly. I'm not a judge so I have to idea how one balances screen accuracy with the knowledge that what is screen accurate might not be readily available. That's a hard call.

I agree with the changes Pondlife81 proposed re hem, sleeves and neckline -

I also appreciate that the fabric appears brown in person but if we are going off of the screen images it is grey and I think that is the most iconic/memorable and common source.

Re: the cream vs metallic does anyone have a pic of the screen images that show this? If it is not visible on screen maybe we should just be discussing it as a recommendation- based on the images from the display that Pondlife posted it looks like it is a white/cream. I was only able to see the movie once, have had a hard time finding references myself so I am a little at a loss recommendation wise until the blue ray is available_________________
Photos by Robbins Studios

So based on everyone's comments, how about something like this? Since it is not completely clear at this time that the thread is or is not metallic, maybe we should make it an option, but not required.

PondLife81 wrote:

1.) Boots:
Plain black closed-toed boots with low heel (up to 2″ or 50mm). Boots should not have any buckles, laces, or obvious decorative designs.

2.) Under dress:
a. The body of the dress is cut flared with a gradual A line, dress of dark chocolate brown to off-black, diamond patterned, lightweight fabric (suggested: cotton, other lightweight matte fabric), lined with another dark solid lightweight fabric. The diamond pattern should be embroidered with a cream or metallic thread.
b. The dress is floor length to 1 inch (2.5 cm) off floor length gown.
c. The bottom of the dress, and lining is finished independently with a two inch hem with no visible stitching on the outer garment.
d. The dress has a wide jewel neckline that dips below the clavicle and no visible seams or darts on the front. The underdress is finished off with a smooth-cap, narrow-wrist, full-length sleeve.

3.) Great Cloak:
a. Floor length great cloak is constructed of a seal brown matte satin finish fabric (pantone mix of 19-1314 TPX/19-0810 TCX), this is not a silk type satin, but a brushed satin suiting.
b. The cloak is SW take of a traditional Inverness style sleeveless jacket.
c. The body of the garment is slightly longer than the under dress and is a looser fit than the underdress. It should not be more than an inch off the ground.
d. The body of the cloak has an asymmetrical center front opening that extends directly from the front of the garment without a neck seam.
e. The right collar has the ability to close over the left. There is an invisible closure on the left shoulder.
f. The collar, in the standing position, meets the center of the wearer’s ear on the side and extends around concealing the face to the bridge of the nose.
g. The back neck is shaped by a separate collar piece connecting to the center back by a horizontal neck seam. Collar reaches past the wearers hairline.
h. The long tapered bottom sleeves are set into the garment at the front of the shoulder in the armscye, and extend back to attach on to the back of the cape with a back shoulder seam.
i. The bottom of the sleeves end just below the knee and taper back to end at the hem of the body of the garment.
j. There is no center back seam to the cape.
k. The sleeves are faced with the outer fabric, then lined with a matching brown silk-like fabric.
l. The coat is fully lined, the neck and center front opening are self-faced with the outer fabric.
m. There is no visible topstitching on any edges.

4) Hair
a. The front of the hair is styled swept back in front with a twisted band across the top of the head.
b. There is a bouffant style hair bump at the crown of the head approximately 3 inches/ 7.6 cm in height.
c. The front twisted band is hidden on the sides by sections of hair above the ears – these sections are pinned under the bouffant hair in the back of the head.
d. There are two low loose buns pinned to the bottom of the hairline covering the back of the head horizontally. The buns start vertically at the halfway point of the ear and ending at the halfway point of the neck
e. Naturally-occurring hair color only (brown with a touch of gray recommended); no bangs. If a wig or extensions are used, they must be of high quality and appear like real hair.

5) Jewelry
a. Screen accurate gold or bronze ear cuffs that curl around the lower ear lobe and extend up the back of the ear
b. A screen accurate brass or antique gold three band bracelet accented with breads of brass and cut blue stones is worn on the right wrist.
c. A screen accurate gold or bronze ring with two circular blue stones worn on the right ring finger
d. A screen accurate gold or bronze blue tone oval ring worn on the left ring finger

Edit: Sorry, item d says no seam and it doesn't seem to be visible in the film. I

This may have been covered and I missed it but what are we saying about the seam under her collar on the right, starting about waist level, of the great coat? Should that side be in one piece or multiple? It starts just above her hands in this photo:

I also still think based on screen images that a dark grey is the better way to describe the great cloak - are we for sure moving forward with the word brown?_________________
Photos by Robbins Studios

I picked up a sample of this fabric, described as a polyester suede/polyester moleskin (it's a bit more brown than it looks in the photo and fits the pantone recommendations), would something like this work? I'm in the UK and searching for any variation of "brushed satin suiting" or anything suggested in the proposed standards brings up no results that look anything like the cloak's fabric. I'm not really sure what else I could search at this point (if anyone has any suggestions please let me know!) 😅

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