(Thai) The second restaurant from Le Du’s Thitid Tassanakajohn focuses on the sort of home cooking that Thais have traditionally enjoyed at their grandparents’ tables. Family recipes are crafted out of traceable ingredients sourced from free-range, organic, chemical-free or sustainable suppliers, resulting in creative renderings of traditional Thai favorites such as kai palo (five-spice stewed egg). The surroundings belie the home-inspired dishes, resembling the sleek, minimalist decor of an Aman resort.

(Italian) Although a night here is no longer an opportunity to plant yourself in the gossip pages, a dinner in this minimalist, tasteful dining room remains one of the town’s best opportunities to sample buzzy Italian cuisine in a five-star hotel setting. New head chef Andrea Buson plays on his Veintian heritage in the octopus with chickpeas, lemon and shellfish mayonnaise. Best of all: prices hover around reasonable.

(Japanese) Local omakase chef Randy Noprapa shuns the usually hushed atmosphere of top-tier sushi dens in favor of a loungey vibe that draws a big, well-heeled crowd. The fish still comes five times a week from Tokyo’s most esteemed sellers, but you’ll also find creative touches like cherry blossom marinades and caviar making their way into the elegant pieces of sashimi and sushi. He takes wagyu beef as seriously as the fish, too.

(International) The brainchild of chef Garima Arora (Noma-trained and a former sous-chef at Gaggan) offers a trans-Asian culinary journey, applying the finesse and detail of fine dining to street food across 10 or 14 courses. Thai and Indian cultures converge in the poached grouper, wrapped taco-style with caramelized milk skin and kanom la (a southern Thai crepe floss dessert), while Japanese touches also abound. The ingredients, however, are 100-percent local, pulled together with an approach that verges on scientific.

(Indian) Welcome to Asia’s most famous restaurant. Gaggan has won Asia’s Best Restaurant for four consecutive years (from 2015-18), in addition to picking up two Michelin stars on the guide’s debut in Bangkok. And for what? Tasting menus of Indian, Japanese and Thai flavors skewed beyond all recognition into everything from Minion ice pops to lumps of coal. The 25-course tasting menu is a three-hour event that’s half dinner, half TED talk. Some of it is pure spectacle—the dish called “Lick it Up” (truffle, green peas, fenugreek and tomato) arrives to Kiss on full volume—while other parts are a hushed deconstruction of food history. Gaggan’s curry, for example, has evolved into raw scallops dressed only in chili oil, curry leaf oil, shallots and a quenelle of cream. Everything save for a couple of courses you eat with your hands. Don’t worry, though; among the history lessons and life-of-Gaggan mythmaking there’s no shortage of stunning flavors, whether a perfectly executed seekh kebab or a lobster dosa that you eat like a taco.

(Italian/French) The baby-blue walls and parquet floors are a kitsch fit for an Italy-meets-France approach to pizzas, served with a side order of Provencal small plates. The simple margherita is essential eating, but Massilia can knock up some fancy specials, too, like the truffle calzone, to go with the occasional reference to the French coastal city of Marseille, as in the tomates farcies (tomatoes stuffed with sausage on a bed of couscous).

(American) After moving to bigger, better digs on Lang Suan Road, this still-buzzing smokehouse is finally able to accommodate the barbecue-loving crowds that still throng the dining room night after night. Now also featuring a smoker-accommodating back courtyard, the restaurant continues to delight with faithful odes to Southern American ‘cue like fork-tender beef brisket and what may possibly be the best key lime pie in the city.

(French) Dutch chef Henk Savelberg’s classical Continental cooking and clockwork service have won him a Michelin star both back in his native Amsterdam and now here. Championing the sort of bright, delicate flavors that have fallen out of favor with today’s umami-obsessed diners, the kitchen excels in transforming commonplace ingredients such as chicken and cauliflower along with luxe bites like oyster and lobster. The impeccable service and wine list round out the great food.

(Japanese) Japanese izakayas can be fun, but not everyone likes to wander down dark alleyways into musty old rooms in search of their next lemon sawa. Enter this stylish Bangkok outpost of a global high-end chain, housed in the five-star St. Regis hotel in a stunning dining room of granite, wood, iron and glass. Service is appropriately solicitous, the open kitchen appropriately efficient and the contemporary Japanese food (and drink) appropriately delicious enough to warrant the crowd.