My recent persistence with Elizabeth Zimmermann patterns and garter stitch in general have, in some way or another, all sprung from this inspiring wonder-project. Knitting the Adult Tomten was such a perfect balance of desirable knitting attributes, that I really miss working on it: mindless stitch pattern combined with interesting, architectural shaping, an amazing natural wool tweed which never got tiresome to look at or work with, a chunky enough yarn to consistently show progress no matter how short a time spent knitting, and above all, the idea of a comfy, thick, sproingy hooded jacket to envelop a wool-starved frame when the glorious cold finally comes back to us.

First things first, a little background info on the Tomten. Elizabeth conceived and knit the first Tomten Jacket for her infant son in 1940. The pattern as we know it (more or less) was released in 1961 in Elizabeth's 7th newsletter (reprinted with the rest of the collection in The Opinionated Knitter). The pattern has taken on variations over the years from both Elizabeth and Meg and made its way into two more classic publications: Knitting Without Tears, and Knitting Workshop. Tomten, the jacket's namesake, is a small Swedish elf who specializes in good deeds. According to Elizabeth, "your child will resemble him strangely, if you put a Tomten jacket on him or her." What do you think? Is it Elf-ish enough for you?

Modifications: Although EZ provides 'sizing' for an adult version - it's basically the same pattern worked in Sheepsdown, her superbulky weight wool (2-3sts/in). Despite wanting to knit a jacket in something a bit lighter than Sheepdown (I worked with fisherman weight wool), I knew I wanted to make some pretty major changes to the pattern to fit the proportions and shapes of an adult.

Elizabeth's pattern is a modular piece (she's nothing if not clever) - all numbers both vertical and horizontal are divisible by 4. This makes for intuitive and logical knitting... but also for a sort of boxy fit (great for the little ones!). Especially where armhole depth is concerned. Early on I decided to more or less throw the magic number out the window and knit to my measurements. Although I did choose to keep the signature 'quarters' for armholes and body/neck opening (detailed below), after all - it wouldn't be a Tomten without those.

The Tomten has DEEP armholes. When you reach the underarms, you basically divide the sweater into quarters: one quarter each for the armholes, leaving half of the sweater's stitches left over the middle for working front and back of the body. After working body fronts and back to desired armhole depth, you join them again into the round and work straight on to form that wonderful hood. While the construction is rather genius, you may notice that it leaves quite a ginormous neck opening. Half of your body circumference to be exact. And a 21" neck opening was just a tad much for me. Lets not even imagine the cavernous neck-openings on a men's XL.

Neck Opening & Hood Mods: To address the neck opening issue and prepare for a nice smooth hood transition I did a few things. First, I threw in some v-neck shaping about 6 inches before shoulder tops. Since I was planning a wide button band to encircle the entire outer length of the hood and body, a v-neck seemed the smartest way of smoothly feeding the band onto the hood with ease. And no mitering or lumpy corners! Next, to give it a bit of structure I added two short shoulder seams at the top - this was also a way of shaving off excess width at the neck. On either side of body front and back, instead of joining the whole thing into the round, I did a 3 needle bind off over 10 stitches on either side (5 sts from front, 5 sts from back). This alone took away 20 stitches from the neck opening which for me was 5 inches. That landed me right around my target neck opening of about 16". To add a bit more sturdiness I chose to bind off at the neck as you would a regular pullover, rather than knitting directly the live neck opening stitches to form the hood. This creates a less stretchy neck opening. Combined with the small shoulder seams (3 needle bind-off makes a nice strong seam, even over 10 measly stitches) the structure at the shoulders and neck made something much more wearable, and durable to boot.

To make the hood then, I picked up stitches from the bound-off neck. I wanted a less trunk-ish hood that sort of hugged the neck a bit in the back. The first time I tried the hood I followed the pattern, increasing evenly over the first 14 rows until desired depth. After I finished it, however, I really didn't like it. Still too wide at the base, even despite the neck decreases employed earlier. I ripped it and made some modifications to the second version that I like very much. The most important was a sharp decrease across the back of the hood about a half inch after picking up neck stitches. I really wanted it to fit the contour of an actual human neck, so pulling it in just above the shoulders worked like a charm. After three rows of garter, I decreased 10 stitches evenly across the back half of the hood in one row. With my new counts I worked even for about 4-5 inches before beginning the hood increases (I just measured my neck and head to see when to start increasing.) When I worked to my desired hood depth (about 13.5"), I short rowed the last 3 rows to curve the top point just a bit. In the end, I was really glad I ripped and re-knit (aren't we always!?) because the 2nd hood fits great. Oh - and instead of a three-needle bind off, I did a garter stitch graft to join the top of the hood - you can't even tell there's a seam there! I love that graft.

Armhole & Sleeve Mods: The armhole and sleeve cap modification is probably the most major change I made to the pattern. I explained in some detail the process here, if you'd like to review. Basically, I worked the deep armholes back and forth until I was about two-inches from consuming all armhole stitches (more or less I left underarm stitches to equal 8% of body circumference on a holder while working the sleeve caps, following a standard EPS seamless). I then began working a top-down set-in sleeve a la Barbara Walker in her masterpiece, starting with a third of the armhole stitches and working short rows back and forth, consuming an additional armhole stitch at the end of each row. It's really a genius little technique - I'm happy I got another chance to work it here. Of course because of the unique row gauge of garter stitch, I had to employ a decreasing scheme to work whilst doing the short rows on the cap. It was a bit like a knitting circus act, but in the end it worked out perfect. I'm really happy with how they fit. The picture above gives a nice little visual to the construction

Details and Trimmings: The buttons called to me - so I ignored their price tag. They're medium sized horn carved buttons, a deep warmish brown with lighter brown marbling. I'm really happy how they turned out. Toggles were a contender, but traditional buttons won out in the end.

Among the many reasons for which I love this pattern, I really like the options you have for trimming with a contrast color. The 'suspender' strips are a unique feature made possible by those deep, square armholes - I couldn't pass them up. I snagged a contrast color when I placed my order for the wool and just sort of developed the accents as I went. I like the idea of trimming the sleeve cuffs for a little definition. Since the whole thing is in garter, the nice visual weight of cuff ribbing or textured stitches that we usually have when knitting a stockinette sweater wasn't really an option. Contrasting cuffs worked just fine though. I also liked the idea of trimming the entire hood and body with one continuous, thin strip of the contrast color. This is probably my favorite accent of all. I went back and forth on whether or not I thought an I-cord bind-off fit in with the sweater's look. In the end I decided to mimic an I-Cord bind off by working one ridge of garter stitch around the entire body/hood area in the contrast color, then bind off in purl from the RS. I'm really loving how it looks.

The last little accent I wanted to mention are the 'reverse seams.' On the tops of sleeves and 'seams' of the body, I threw in a vertical strip of Slip Stitch Stockinette. In other words, on every WS row I slipped the seam stitch with the yarn forward. This is what creates those neat little ridges running over the shoulder and down to the cuff. Some versions of the Tomten in The Opinionated Knitter have this detail, although I couldn't find it written in any version of the pattern.

My longest post ever? Probably. There's so much to say about this sweater, I'm impressed if you made it through and I'm sure I've forgotten something. Overall, I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. I turn the A/C on in the apartment just to wear it. It seems I've been meaning to make a hooded sweater for years - I guess I don't need to feel bad about that any longer!

Big thanks to Adrian of HelloYarn for mutually spurning this project into motion (keep your eye on her, she's bound to drop her stunning version on us one of these days soon) as well as to my big bro for modeling the sweater during our Oregon Coast camping trip (the outdoor shots). For those of you wanting to make Tomten your own, feel free to e-mail me with questions. E-mail works better than comments (don't you just love Blogger?). I set up a gallery full of my Tomten pictures here, because there are so many of them! - feel free to peruse. This sweater really is priceless to me at this point so I'd be happy to watch the Adult Tomten Ministry spread!

That's so cool, Jared. I have to say, I sometimes find EZ's adult patterns just that little bit clunky, but that bit of finesse that you apply, entirely within the context of her principles, is just brilliant.

Like so many, I've been a long-time fan, admirer (and lurker) of yours. This sweater made me come out of the closest to say, hot damn! you would make EZ so proud (not that I know her, or anything) but really, you've done amazing work here--as always...

Wow. WOW. That is gorgeous. If I show my dh he will immediately want one (he has admired several of your FOs and then I admonish him for giving up the sticks!) but I think this is beyond my expertise at the moment. Give me a year or so, and then I might try this! (For myself, first, of course!!!!)

Thanks for all the detail here - it does make this tempting. Again, beautiful sweater and handiwork.

Absolutely stunning!! I hope you kept your notes on the Tomten - Brooklyn Tweed style. I do think you should write or rewrite the pattern. Get hold of Meg Swanson - if she doesn't get hold of you first!

I love it! You did such an amazing job -- makes me want one so badly. It doesn't hurt that you take absolutely beautiful pictures. I just want to squish all the wonderful garter stitch! I may have to settle with making a pair of Saartje's Baby Booties as I'm not sure I have quite the talent to pull off the Tomten yet.

oh thank you. i so much hoped you would post about it today. it looks so good (the photos are wonderful) and good for me that you did an adult one as i have the wool for one (yorkshire chunky) and really want to do it soon. your's is gorgeous and the pattern is great fun isn't it? i have the third children's one on the needles right now. i will probably have to email you for knitting support. congratulations on this hooded beauty. one sure could need one now here in denmark as you have to pretend it is summer!!!

Wow, you are great at spreading a ministry, too. I'm totally convinced this is the best thing since sliced bread...and it is definetly one of them! My gosh, the architecture of it as you put it is awe inspiring! I just love it. And the color...::sigh::

It looks wonderful. Where on the Oregon Coast were you camping? I live near the Columbia and I kept thinking it would be great to see you and that Tomten in person. That's ok, had I seen you I'd have been too goggle-eyed to introduce myself...

Delurking to say thank you so much for this post. It's a beautiful sweater. I'm making one for my 3yo and have just the sleeves left, and I've been watching for this post since you first mentioned you were making an adult version. I'll be bookmarking for the future. Wonderful job.

Another chef-d'oevre! I think it's wonderful that you've modified some of EZ's adult sweater patterns to reduce the bulky, potato-sack look in favor of a streamlined fit. Good thing you were in the Pacific Northwest to wear it, although I still like the image of you strolling around New York in the heat in your EZ sweater...

The colours, the fit, the buttons, the photos... you've done it again! A masterpiece!!!

I'd love to become a disciple of the Tomten Ministry, but frankly, all those mods made my head hurt just a little bit. But I've been toying with the idea of trying my hand at an EZ bog jacket, and seeing your lovely photos really gets me jonesin for a massive dose of garter in lovely, tweedy yarn.

absolutely a gorgeous sweater. this seemingly simple looking sweater combines so many intricate details i think only an experienced knitter, like you can pulled it off so flawlessly. the pictures are gorgeous, it only adds to the beauty of this cardi! amazing work, jared!

Everyone else has already covered the bases here, so I'll just compliment you on your color sense (LOVE the contrasty bits! Well chosen!) and the gorgeous buttons (though, yeah, I can see why you were tempted by toggles, however briefly; but I think your final decision was an excellent one.)

Dear God in Heaven, what a glory! If I make it to the end of the day without buying a massive stash of Beaverslide Tweed it will be a miracle. This may be my favorite of your many awe-inspiring knits, Jared. You rock my world.

Just beautiful. Would you consider publishing and selling the pattern? (After consulting with Meg, of course.) I'm not sure I'm accomplished enough yet to make one that's so nicely fitted without more hand holding. Thank you for sharing so many photos. I can see why you're so proud and I can hardly wait to see what's on the needles next! Tina in Phila.

Oh my, Jared, such wonderful work! You've kept the spirit of the design and adapted it so well for fit and style. I like the accent color and button choices as well. Thanks for sharing your modifications (though it would be a while before I could figure them out for myself).

Everything a sweater for a man should be! My girlfriend just alerted me to your site and I can't wait to see what else you've done. I'd love for you to write a guest entry on my blog! http://manneedles.blogspot.com/

Bonjour,Love your adult tomtem !! It feats you very well !Since I read your blog (for just several week) i just want to learn to knit with E. Zimmermann ... Thank you to let me known about her.Anyway, your blog in very inspirating for me ... I just want to have everything you knit !Excuse my bad english !!A bientôt

I think you must be the foremost contemporary interpeter of Zimmerology. Truly, you could rewrite the book. Tomtens will soon be every where thanks to you. Keep it up. I'd like to see you take on the rest of the Zimmerman ouvere.

Who would have thought garter stitch could be so exquisite!! You've done an amazing job kitting and the 'math'!! Your an inspiration to many, of course you know that! I'm checking into Beaverslide yarns too.

Even if I only had the pictures to go by, this would be a MOST compelling knit to add to my queue. Thank you thank you thank you for the detailed comments. It shows the joy you had creating this in your own style, and will also make a fantastic reference if/when I should craft one for myself.

really stunning work. sometimes the simplest stitches, yarns and patterns can make the most beautiful results! you'll probably hear from me in the future with qestions about my own! i love it! (i want it! i need it!)

I don't particularly care for garter stitch, but you make it lovely, Jared! This is an absolutely wonderful sweater! Like everyone else I've been waiting to see it. As a newish knitter there is no way I could manage all your mods, but my utmost respect and a generous dash of awe are being sent your way.

Well I'm back again to gaze adoringly at this sweater and try and figure out how you did it. I understand everything except for the sleeve cap/armhole situation, I can't seem to figure out how you took the square holes and short rowed out. Were you picking up stitches from each side as you knit? Maybe you could post something about this technique. You know bust out a few diagrams, graphs, maybe a pie chart or two for those of us who are suffering from Tomten fever? LOL Just kidding, but I would love to hear more about the sleeve mods!

I am so impressed by your Tomten Jacket, as well as all your completed projects. You have so inspired me to try some new things with my own knitting! Very well done! I have enjoyed your blog very much and can't wait for your next post! :)

Jared....Many thanks for the beanie info! What a great surprise to find your comment on my blog!As you probably know, Elizabeth Zimmerman was from Wisconsin. Last year, one of the grad students from UW (who also works at one of our fantastic yarn shops), was responsible for setting up a show, exclusively about Elizabeth. Needless to say, it was a hit in the areas fiber world. :)Thank you again for responding about the hat.

JaredI am in awe! This is my first time to visit your blog. You do amazing work and are a good read. I'm happy you answered the buttons when they called––they look great. I have buttons calling me at my LYS––in fact I have visited them several times. Perhaps I should suck it up and buy them at the outrageous price?

Ditto to everything that everyone else has already said, but particularly:1) I hope you post your pattern mods in full someday2) I too would like to have your babies (but not 10,000 of them, as another commenter said)

I just keep going over and over the photos -- more than inspiring, more than awesome, they are nourishing.

Random side comment that has nothing to do with your sweater (though it is quite lovely): The store I work at in San Francisco, Noe Knit, is offering your Red Light Special hat as a class for the second time. I thought you might enjoy seeing the end results. There are pictures posted on the store's blog ( http://noeknit.blogspot.com/ ).

After having read Knitting Without Tears, I thought there must be an error when you said this gorgeous cardi came from that book- I would surely have remembered it. Of course, I was wrong.. page 87 tells me so. I totally didn't see how that rather plain-looking B/W picture and brief text results in the crunchy granola goodness that is your Tomten. Well done, and thanks for the inspiration.

Jared-I just hope you are still keeping up with your comments on the Adult Tomten. I was already contemplating making one for me when a friend clued me into your blog. You did such a fantastic job of adapting EZ's pattern to fit todays time and yarns. I ran out today and bought some of the new Handpaint Cascade 220 and a contrasting color of heather and am ready to start my own version. I am sure I will be revisiting your blog many times during my construction phase. Thanks for such a wonderful sweater and blog-CrazyAnn of LifeandtimesofCrazyAnn.blogspot.com

I'm so pleased to discover that you modified the Tomten jacket. I've been thinking about trying it and it's great to see what you did with it. And I love your colors! I just can't believe I didn't stumble across this sooner. Ravelry has really opened things up, hasn't it?