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Translation by Eleri Rowlands (Jan 2008)

I cannot do any better to start with than to place here this complete article by Mr Griffiths, Alltwen that appeared in 'Y Diwygiwr' for 1847, page 313

"Alltwen is in the parish of Cilybebyll, in Glamorgan. The oldest people in the area told me the story of the beginnings of the cause here. This is what they said:-

There was a man by the name of Lewis Richard living on a farm called Bryncarnau, in this parish, and he had many signs of godliness. He was a member of the established church. One day he lent the priest his horse so that he could go to a neighbouring town, and the priest became too friendly with some of the hot spirits that were to be found in the town, and their effects followed him home, they made him wander all over the road; and worse than that he had to walk along the edges of the road, so that he and the horse fell into a flood pool; and it happened, as it did to Jacob: he broke his thigh and was lame for the rest of his life (these spirits are very bad for one); and worse than that the animal, which was quite valuable, was hurt. Looking back at the journey Lewis Richard was very unhappy and he decided to leave the church and move to the Methodists; and because the means of grace were few in the area, he had to go to Llanilan chapel, near Foelgastell, Carmarthenshire; he travelled there, even though it was so far, for some time. But once the Rev. Henry Thomas, was ordained in Godrerhos, Lewis Richard decided to join the non-conformists, and to become a member in Godrerhos. After this Mr Thomas came to preach occasionally to Brynasgellog and Bryncarnau farms.

Around that time Lewis Richard's mistress leased land to him; and as he had left the church, his mistress insisted on inserting in the documents that he was not to hold services in his house, Bryncarnau farm. Since there was this hindrance Lewis Richard searched for another place for him to worship his Lord; and he decided on a small house that had been built by the people of the area as a school; it measured 21 feet by 16 feet wide, and about 7 feet in height, which was roofed with ferns ; it stood on the edge of a common called Alltwen. It was called that because, on this common there were cliffs of high large rocks, that looked white from far off because of the moss that covers the rocks; the area, the farms, the public house and the place of worship all go by the same name. A lease on the little house was obtained by Mr W. Jones, Cilhendrefawr, over the length of the lives of three men, and the lease lasted until the year 1841.

Once they had had a place of worship, Rev. Henry Thomas and others came to preach here and Rev. William Evans, Cwmllynfell became their minister and was with them for about ten years. He succeeded in gaining a good congregation such as things were in those days. When he was dying, he advised the people of Cwmllynfell and Alltwen to ask Rev. John Davies, a young man who had just been ordained in Pentretygwyn to become their minister. And so they went to tell Mr Davies what the advice of their late minister had been. He agreed with their request and he became their minister in 1770. Mr Davies ministered in the little house for many years until it became too small for the congregation, and they built a bigger house at the end of the chapel which was 42 feet by 22 feet. There is no evidence that they asked for help from anyone except the local people. The cause multiplied and the vine spread her branches down and up until it became strong and it became a place of great meetings for the people of the district and those far away and all this because of the fame of the minister, as he was powerful in the scriptures. No missionary went past without calling with old 'John Calvin' as they called him and many Methodists called with him and they would stay with him. He carried on successfully like that for many years until it became obvious that they needed to improve the place of worship so they did. They lifted it higher and put a new stronger roof on it and improved it inside in the year 1814 at a cost to the congregation and the locals. Mr Davies was a minister in Alltwen for 51 years but although he was strong of body and mind and however fond of him the people were they had to take their leave of him when the chariot of Israel and the knights came to escort him to the assembly of the first born etc. He died on December 4th, 1821 and he was buried near Llangiwg (Llanguick) church because neither Alltwen nor Cwmllynfell had a churchyard then. However famous the minister and the place were, still they were not a large congregation but they were the most respected and responsible people collecting from afar from many different regions. Some came from Breconshire Ystrad parish; others from Llangiwg parish, 4 or 5 miles up the valley; others from the parish of Llangyfelach, Morriston, Llansamlet, and the parish of Cadwg at the bottom of the Dulais valley the other side of the mountain. Again they were not a large number in that dark age when there were no Sunday Schools, nor monthly publications, nor houses of worship, nor many advantages as we have these days and there was much opposition to the cause in many areas. One of the deacons of Alltwen had to apply for a license on his house in order to worship there (George Williams, Glanrhyd); that was a very strange thing; but the opposition has not died out yet.

After the death of Mr Davies the congregation was slow, measured and quiet. When Pantteg chapel called the secretary to be their minister, Alltwen chapel had the same thought and they agreed with Pantteg that they share their ministry. They gave the call, signed by all with no one against although they were at that time only 67 in number. After the ordination everything went along comfortably, the cause was a success. Many new members joined and there was a need for an extension on the chapel since it was too small to dwell in. There was a lease of one life on the house since two of the three had died and the other was very old. The result was that one of the old people (Richard Hopkin, Cwmnantllwyd) went to see the owner of the place in order to renew the lease to build - he had a promise of 100 years. He went a second time and had a promise of 999 years. So the chapel decided to set up an agreement with H. Gwyn Esq for the place over 999 years. Somehow, in conversation with the gentleman, it was decided to add the land that was below the house of worship to the land on which the chapel stood and that to build a new chapel and the first two to stand as a stable and dwelling houses and for all to connect and the whole lot would be under the same lease. The only problem was that Mr Richard Hopkin already had a lease on the field; and so he gave up his right to the field to the chapel, free. So they started building in 1831.

The present building measures 46 feet by 36 feet wide, 22 feet high, 3 doors and 8 windows, an extensive gallery, choirs (50); and the place is honoured by two clocks, one inside and other outside, by the owner of the place, Howell Gwyn Esq. They were worth £18. 18s.

The building was worth £407. 5s but after paying interest and building walls around it the sum rose to £523. 10s but the whole lot was collected in the area within 6 years, apart from a small amount of help from the union (of Welsh Independents) and from some 15 chapels in the neighbourhood; the people carried all the materials free, stones, wood, sand, water, lime etc; the people worked from their hearts, and they served their generation by doing this and many generations after this one.

The next expense they had was to repair the old chapel, in order to make them into three dwelling houses and a stable, which cost them £45. While digging a foundation for the present building, it was realised that there was a real depth of ground, and they would be able to bury even though they were on the slope of the rock. Then they appealed to H. Gwyn, Esq, through T. Lott Martin, Esq for more land in order to have a place to bury our dead, which was granted readily, without raising the annual rent, as long as we had the agreement of Richard Hopkin, who had a lease on the field; he was generous enough to give the land without a second payment during the time of his right to it. So the field was obtained as a cemetery and it is one of the biggest cemeteries in the county, if not in Wales, a lovely dry place to bury; yet, even though it is beautiful, no one comes here voluntarily, but by death - it is an old adversary and will be until Jesus is victorious. The building of walls around the cemetery cost the community dearly. On October 22nd, 1834, burials were started here: Margaret Hopkin, Fforestgoch, was the first placed to lie here; a sermon was preached at the occasion from Gen 23, v17. Here today, (August 12th, 1847) there are over 200 lying in the graveyard. The graves are arranged in straight rows - two graves for each family, 7 feet long by 6 feet wide; and the graves are registered by number in each row.

The next expense the chapel had in 1846, was to roof the building, top and side, to make it watertight, which cost £51.7s.4d. For the second time in this year the oldest house was rebuilt to make it into a comfortable dwelling house, which cost over £30.

As above, the cause of the great Saviour has started for us in Alltwen over the last 90 years; and the writer wishes even more success in the next 90 years and also until the trumpet calls us from our graves. Alltwen chapel did not have the honour to be a mother church to many branches as many churches have, but we had the honour of living together without quarrels of any note since the establishment as a church, and in God's mercy, love and unity is still alive to this day - long life to them for ever and ever. This chapel did not have the honour of nurturing many messengers (ministers) but did have the honour of never having killed anyone; there is a lot of killing of messengers through overwork, too little food, too much bile in their cups; but this chapel saw her teachers falling into their graves at a fair age, having completed their days, late in life, comfortably. However, she nurtured some to be public people: here Rev. Jenkin Lewis, Llanfyllin, who laboured successfully there through many disadvantages. David Rees was raised here, he was a very intelligent boy, godly, and very pleasant, amazingly talented, but unfortuately died young. A young man is now presently beginning to practice his talent (Joseph Owen); the chapel wishes him a successful careeer. The chapel has been respected generally; she is far from being Arminian, yet she needs to lead everyone in diligence, responsibilities, holy life and discipline according to God's word. The chapel is considered by those that travel as one where there is more religious appetite than anywhere else in these lifeless days. This chapel had the honour of holding two four county assemblies (singing festivals) during the last 21 years. This membership is great compared with what it used to be but very few, we hope, compared with the congregations to come. It is divided into 6 groups in order to hold prayer meetings so that talents can be nurtured, improve communities, cut new ground and gain new members.

Let their labour be blessed, and let the God of Israel be with us while we are together, and after my departure let there be a cloud of glory here forever.

There are a few further facts to include. Mr Griffiths was ordained on December 12th and 13th, 1822. The meeting began the first night in Pantteg by Mr D. Davies, a student in Neuaddlwyd training college, but now from New Inn (Ammanford) and Mr Powell, Capel Isaac, and Mr D. Davies, Sardis preached. The second day, in Alltwen, started with a prayer by Mr Morgan Lewis, Glynneath; Mr D. Evans, Mynyddbach, preached on the nature of church; the soft confession was accepted by Mr R. Howell, Baran; the ordaining prayer was given by Mr Daniel Jones, Crugybar; Mr T. Bowen of Neath preached about the duties of the minister and Mr D. Davies, Sardis preached about the duty of the church.

Mr Griffiths has been labouring in this important field now for fifty years. During this time, without counting his occasional work, since he started preaching, and while he was a student, he has since his ordination till now delivered nine thousand and five sermons; has christened 2886 children; has served in 2007 funerals; and has accepted 1930 people as members, without counting the ones accepted by letter, and the backsliders that were restored to the fold.

During the term of Mr Griffiths'ministry the chapel and congregation at Alltwen had an expense of £1082.3s. 0d in order to build and extend the chapel, the wall around the graveyard, changing the old chapel into dwelling houses, building a reading room etc. and paying off the debt themselves without much help from any other district. The branches at Ynysmeudwy and Craigtrebanos will be noted again in their appropriate places. The chapel was extended to its present size in 1861, when they had an expense of £319.10s to do so.

Other than the ones already mentioned the following also became preachers in this chapel:-

John Jenkins, who was accepted to Abergavenny training college on May 8th, 1775, and was ordained in Llangattwg, Crughowell, on September 30th, 1779. There will be two mentions of him in the history of that chapel. *

*Documents of P.Dayid and the minutes of the Congregational fund.

Lewis Williams who was lately ordained in Mynyddislwyn along with two young men who have just started preaching. Their names are Samuel Thomas and Dan Williams.

This chapel and the Sunday School are now in a highly prosperous condition and Mr Griffiths, despite his age and workload, is strong and lively in body and mind, although he has, as had Jacob, a lame hip. We are confident that he has years of comfort and success in front of him.

BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES

JOHN DAVIES.
This well known minister was born in Llanllawddog parish, Carmarthenshire, in the year 1737, in a house close to the Parish Church. His parents were members of the Established Church. He spent his earliest years as a servant to a gentleman by the name of Mr Lloyd of Glangwili. There he learnt and started taking an interest in shooting birds, which became a lifelong interest. It appears that he was rather wild and ungodly, even though he was greatly respected by his master, until he was around twenty years old. At that time he had a dangerous illness and was kept in his bed for some weeks. The Lord blessed his illness even though he was so ill. When he recovered he joined the Independent chapel in Pencader. Soon after he was accepted, he was encouraged by the chapel to practise his preaching, and after preaching for some months as a student in his mother church, he went, according to the custom of those days, to a meeting of ministers, where he preached so that the ministers and local chapels had a chance to judge his suitability as a minister. He was judged as suitable to be a qualified minister. Since he was quite a well-known preacher, and especially since he was known for his bodily strength and his courage, the chapel at Rhosmeirch, Anglesey gave him a call, even before they heard him, on the basis of the word they had heard about him.

It was important to have courageous men those days as Non-conformist ministers in Anglesey because of the persecuting spirit of the inhabitants. He and his friends considered that this call was God's voice, and so he set out on his journey north, but before he got very far his horse became lame and he had to return home. Then he gave up all thought of going north. About the year 1767, he accepted the call from a chapel in Pentretygwyn, Carmarthenshire, where he was ordained. At the end of 1770 or the beginning of 1771, he accepted a call from the chapels in Cwmllynfell, Alltwen and Cwmaman, and he settled there and in that place he was amazingly influential and respected till his death, which happened on December 4th, 1821. On the day of his burial, his body was taken from his home to Alltwen chapel, where the sermon was delivered from Psalm 11. v.2 by Mr Thomas Edwards, Neath. The text and the preacher had been chosen by the departed on his death-bed. He was buried near his forerunner, Mr W. Evans, in Llangiwg churchyard, before hundreds of mourners.

Perhaps there was never a minister who was more respected by his congregation than Davies, from Alltwen. His name cannot be mentioned in the hearing of the old people who remember him even today, without it inflaming feelings of respect in them. It is said that he was a big man, with a coarse body and coarse speech, but despite this he had a strange way of getting to people's hearts and made them feel respect towards him.

As a minister, he spoke, strongly and clearly, and left an impression on his listeners that he was a master of his subject. Even though there was nothing melodious in his voice, nor sweet in his compositions, everyone of his contemporaries counted him as a great preacher. Very rarely did he preach one sermon without attacking the Socinians, even though the Socinians of the area also had great respect for him as a neighbour. He had some purposeful attacks in his conversations and his sermons and he always had a ready answer. One Sunday evening he was to preach in Ebenezer, Swansea, and since he was about 80 years old then, and had been preaching in Alltwen in the morning, Peter Williams, one of the officials of the chapel, offered to call a brother to start the service for him. 'No you won't,'he said, in a coarse loud voice, 'I would rather sharpen my own scythe then allow someone else to do it for me.'