In the tail put 3-5 strands of flashabou on each side of the back of the hook. Put a bump of Estaz there also. Attach 3 strands of RHea over 5 hairs of Orange Yak on each of three sides of the hook. The bump of Estaz will make it stand out to the side. For the body tie in the flexicord with the tag end going back from the middle of the hook. Bind it down and then pull forward and bind down again. Pull back and bind down again. This creates the necessary bump on top of the hook. Tie in the eyes(beads on mono) on each side then tie in Estaz on the top and the spey hackle. Wind the first 2 wraps of Estaz under the eyes then finish. Hackle it and then pull the cord forward and tie it off. Then tie on more Estaz and finish the front half in 3-4 wraps. Thats it. It sounds harder than it is. Email for more help at babar@speyman.com

You're trying to tell me everyone doesn't have a 16-18' 10/11wt spey rod hanging around to toss those big waddingtons??? Come on. Yeah, I tried tossing one on my 14' 9wt spey and was like "Ugh" with that even. A one hander, NO WAY!!!

Great fly. I tie up something sort of similar, but not quite. Mines a bit more of a revised GP. Saw them over in the UK back in late 80's. The ghillie had this fly that looked like a GP, but didn't have the GP strand eyes coming off, and a bit smaller hook (not the standard salmon hook). Has been a great producer, though I am back using standard fly hooks for the pattern.

I have tossed the 45's with an 8150 and an 8/9 Mastery Spey with 12' of T-14 but it was not enjoyable. What I have found is that using a 9/10 with a shorter line like a Midspey 9/10 you can toss them around pretty well. It sure makes you a better caster as you have to adjust the size and shape of the loop on every cast, no tight loops.

I had cast mine on a 9140 with a WC 9/10/11 and with a DT9f spey line. Both cast, but you're right on loops. Very sloppy. I've actually done some different alterations to make something similar to a waddington, shaving weight. I actually make spinners as well as flies. I actually tie up a spinner shaft onto the hook I'm using. Takes a bit to sync up vise to tie on. But works pretty good. Easier to cast as well.

I didn't tie one up, wasn't sure if anyone wanted to see a before/after. But nice thing about this is you can adjust the bend of the shaft to whatever you want (nymph, shrimp, etc). Plus, can be rebent if straightened to sweat. Is very strong as well. Plus, you can just leave it straight. There are a few different ways you can leave the front. I have it twisted where you'd attach leader. You can either do this, or can make a bend only and long shaft, similar to a waddington or a standard salmon fly hook. Simply wrap it with thread and you'll be set without the twisted wire end. You can make it much longer. This was a quick setup done just for an example.

Just a thought,but wouldn't it be better if you used...say S/S wire. It would be lighter but thinner. When I used to work for a living at the lazy "B" we had wire that we used for fail safe on nuts and bolts. It was stainless and it came in sizes of .0032 and .0020. But I don't know if you can get it out in the real world.

Well, only thing about SS is it's hard to work in the vises (spinner that is), they have a tendency to be too strong. They will snap when you have to set the pattern. So I use the standard spinner making wire. Is a bit softer, and easier to work with. I've tried using the wire you're talking about though. But I was using a bigger diameter almost equal to what I was using. Plus, this stuff is easier to work to creat the pattern you want. Plus, the bigger diameter helps for you to tie a decent big pattern without having to really load up the bare wire to build the body up. Actually, it's lighter then using the waddington shanks. They are thicker and a bit heavier. It's pretty much a replication for that, and cheaper.

LOL, yeah, it's hard to find in the real world. I have a step brother who works with it, and get alot of that stuff from him. I use it for stainless leaders, and with them you do more crimping then hard bending. Always on the initial bend and twist that I'd get the "snap".

I'm about to send off your care package. I'll make a few of these later on and send you some of those as well.

Even though I know you weren't really interested, Steel, I thought that Jim's suggestion might have other potential applications to tying, so I thought I'd provide info, on the off chance anyone else might have interest.

The stuff you were thinking of is aviation safety wire. The .020 dia is very flexible, yet has incredible tensile strength. If you have a pair of safety wire pliers, it is easy to work with and makes very tight uniform twists. The smallest size pliers can do pretty fine work. Also, given that you wouldn't be using them daily, go with the cheapo pliers. (In this case, an exception to my always buy the best tool money can buy rule.)

Prices range $9-15 for a 1 lb. can of wire (a near lifetime supply for a non-mechanic), and $20-35 for pliers. Below are a couple of links to sources. You can also get them locally at most aviation supply places.

I just had covered it before. But I wasn't using aircraft grade though before. I'm not sure why the fishing tackle companies don't use it though. I'm using same shaft material that the spinner companies are. Just the SS wire I had used before was brittle on the tight loops my spinner vise makes. I'd be very interested to try it out if it works that well. But also, you have to think body as well though. You'll be tying bodies on this, and want as thick of body as possible. I'm using .035 right now, and holds the body ok. But still not big enough it seems. But does well on leech patterns where body pretty much makes itself, so the aircraft SS wire would work. Didn't know there was a difference. Only had the SS you get for making SS wire leaders for the salt.

Thanks, I may try buying some to try it out. I don't need the pliers, my vise wraps up a perfect head really quick. It's an ancient old Herters, but has done the trick for me since day one. I was introduced on this hefty vise, and still use it. Plus, when I do some production spinners, it still works flawlessly and quickly.

I do appreciate the info. I'm not an expert on SS wire. I'll have to try some out and let you know how it goes.

Could this set up be used to do what I asked about 2 flies on one hook?
What if a short piece of wire was tied to the hook, to form a hinge and then a second piece added to tie an emerger? Or would this become too much and present a real problem casting? It would definately create a different action while stripping. You seem to have a good mind for this sart of thing. Besides if I can get someone else to the ground work it is easier for me LOL. If this is really a hot idea and it gets pattened we can discuss royalties and such then, LOL. Where can I get the wire?, some place like Kaufmans?

I have tied some English syle atlantic flies on # 8 long shanks, specifically the green highlander and the thunder and lightning. These were copied from flies purchased at Farlow's of Pall Mall in merry old London. They work quite well for cutts and summer runs when they seem to get pickey in low clear water conditions.

Where do you live at? Figured the best way to work this out would be in person. Can sit at my bench and try building up a few and see how they work. I'm hobbled up, so no fishing for me for awhile. :bawling Pretty much in cabin fever mode now. But I can have you first hand and do the work for you. I'm great with making ideas work. I'm really going to try the SS wire above. Never knew there were different grades. Stuff I used was brittle. Being lighter would help your case too using the SS wire. I'm game, never hate extra money. LOL.

Email me if you're interested. You just need to show up with materials/hooks you want to use (you can use my stuff, but I only have salmon/steelhead hooks, nothing smaller then a size 8 7999) But can use my materials too if you'd like. Have plenty. But, bring a variety and we'll see what we can do.

Not at all. Any advice is always welcome as long as it helps us do what we all seem to like best. And fly fishing and tying seem to be it. When I was in a pinch some times small vice grips always seemed to work on the wire..

I have used the Haywire method to build a variety of stuff for toothy saltwater species for years and it it easy and it works great. I will also admit that I prefer to fish rather than to tinker with gear so forgive me in advance. I also also admit that I went through a phase where I built my own Salmon hooks to get what I wanted so I understand tinkering when it is needed to manufacture an unavailable part.

I am curious about why there is so much interest in building your own base for a fly when a perfectly good Waddington shank can be had for a little more than 30 cents. The shanks come in size from 15mm to 55mm so you can build any size fly you need. The shanks are soft enough to bend to any shape you need for any type of fly body. And most important the way a double shank is made you have a much wider base to build your fly which allows you to create VERY lifelike bodies the same way we do on doubles.