I have an aftermarket Mustang II front end on my '29 Tudor. I called to get it aligned and the alignment guy wanted to know if I had specs. I said "DAH" Then I said let me check. Anyway does anyone have the settings for aligning for this front end? I had thought, from years ago,that the weight of the vehicle may make a difference in the specs?

I had thought, from years ago,that the weight of the vehicle may make a difference in the specs?

While weight does have a bearing on the end adjustment(s), one also has to take into consideration component design/wear and spring fatigue (or wrong spring rate) (trim height) to get to the correct setting. The technician will have to take all of this into consideration before he starts twisting things.

Hi,I'VE Aligned this same set up.Use .5 degree postive camber on lf wheel. .25 degree postive camber on rf wheel.If your car has manual steering use 1 degree negative caster on both wheels,or if your car is p/s use 1 degree positive caster on both wheels,use 1/8 th inch toe in.Negative caster makes a manual steering car steer a little easier and postive caster makes it track better on the road.Caster angle doesn't cause wear it is a stability angle, so don't worry if you can't get this angle perfect.Make your caster even on both sides or a little more negitive on the left wheel.You will be fine with this.Good luck

I have gotten what I have considered quite a range. How long have you been using the car since you have aligned it with these specs? Your specs are about the same as the ones Heidt's gave me except they used a little less toe-in

I Own A Alignment Shop --barney's Alinement,wauseon Ohio I Have Found That 1980 Monte Carlo Spec Is A Good Place To Starts Work S Good On Must Rods .5 Postive Camber On Left .2 Postive Camber On Right 3 Deg Postive Caster On Left 3.5 Postive On Right .30 Toe -in

I Own A Alignment Shop --barney's Alinement,wauseon Ohio I Have Found That 1980 Monte Carlo Spec Is A Good Place To Starts Work S Good On Must Rods .5 Postive Camber On Left .2 Postive Camber On Right 3 Deg Postive Caster On Left 3.5 Postive On Right .30 Toe -in

Thanks, I did take it in, but the shocks were "sticking" not returning to a center position, so I still did not get it done yet, but the toe in was done and I saw a big difference in the improvement of the steering! Ordered new shocks from Speedway and they are on the way

While weight does have a bearing on the end adjustment(s), one also has to take into consideration component design/wear and spring fatigue (or wrong spring rate) (trim height) to get to the correct setting. The technician will have to take all of this into consideration before he starts twisting things.

I have to agree with DUKE.
The alignment/welding of the subframe to the main frame and the vehicle "rake" makes a tremendous difference. Remember that alignment also considers the relationship of the suspension components to the chassis as well as the alignment specs to the "ground".

e.g. Align the front end with the frame level then set the car at a 3* nose down rake and you just removed 3* of caster from the readings, but not from the chassis relationship. If you align a 3* rake with lots of caster as some prefer (2* +) then you could be inducing a tremendous amount of bump steer into a suspension because it was designed for minor welding angles and 1/2 * caster.

Your alignment man was correct in asking you what YOU WANTED. If he aligns it "his way" like a factory MII car and it drives bad, then HE is the one in trouble and it is not really his fault. He gets a bad mouthing for something that is not his fault...

You have to decide what YOU WANT and you have to take the responsibility for the outcome.

If you snoop around a lot you will find shops that align with 1/8" toe OUT.... yes OUT, so that there is enough drag on the front end to make it drive better, because the chassis set up is so horrible.

I have to agree with DUKE.
The alignment/welding of the subframe to the main frame and the vehicle "rake" makes a tremendous difference. Remember that alignment also considers the relationship of the suspension components to the chassis as well as the alignment specs to the "ground".

e.g. Align the front end with the frame level then set the car at a 3* nose down rake and you just removed 3* of caster from the readings, but not from the chassis relationship. If you align a 3* rake with lots of caster as some prefer (2* +) then you could be inducing a tremendous amount of bump steer into a suspension because it was designed for minor welding angles and 1/2 * caster.

Your alignment man was correct in asking you what YOU WANTED. If he aligns it "his way" like a factory MII car and it drives bad, then HE is the one in trouble and it is not really his fault. He gets a bad mouthing for something that is not his fault...

You have to decide what YOU WANT and you have to take the responsibility for the outcome.

If you snoop around a lot you will find shops that align with 1/8" toe OUT.... yes OUT, so that there is enough drag on the front end to make it drive better, because the chassis set up is so horrible.

Used to own a hot rod alignment shop.....
x

WOW! I'll have a discussion with my alignment guy, the place has been there since 1934 so he should have an opinion too.

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