Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

Bird Nesting September-December
Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra
Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations.
Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times.
Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

Approach

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

Stick to the paths.

Don't disturb the wildlife.

Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Climbs the centre of the face left of 'Maiden Voyeur' despite continually heading for the left wing.
Good climbing throughout but the regular need to step back right to avoid the left arete detracts a bit.
Take cams up to 3.5 (blue Camalot).
Belay as for Heath Row or on a small stance a few metres higher below the left-hand diagonal line.
Move up left to the bulge at the start of the face and pull over onto the black face. Continue, keeping right of the arête. At each bolt, step right below it and climb straight past. Belay on a ledge about 5 metres above the third bolt. Scramble, roped up about another 10 metres to another good ledge that leads off into the gully below Hurts.

No prizes for guessing who put this up. Following the left-most of the ddiagonal lines this is quite a good climb. Used to be hard to locate because the guidebooks mangled the writeups of this and 'Mammary Lane'.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row'
Go up into the left crack and take the wide layback flake (big cam). Finish up nice thin crack.

This and 'Maiden Voyeur' were described in the wrong order in the guidebooks so it was hard to work out where things went. The FA date in the Shepherd guide was also incorrect. The majority of this climb is very easy but the upper wall is great.