Plumber: You posted the pic with the trans mismatched to the outboard mount and got a lot of flak for the obvious frame error. I just wanted to make sure you got her fixed so it would not come up again. Ridged Pan is one of the best looking HD ever put out. The 37 ULH that the wife rides has the glide front and a solo seat. Not too many figure it out until we stop and the carb is on the wrong side.

Plumber: As I recall, the discussion at he time was about the process to remove the mismatch in the mount under the trans and have it stay flat and aligned with the surface of the trans. Also there were some comments about the frame having the defect in the first place. As I recall that frame is retailed at about $1800.00 or more and the question was why pay that much for a part that needs to be "repaired"? Some of the comments were not too supportive as I recall. My concern was simple.. Did you get it fixed and was the vendor supportive? All of us are by necessity tied to the vendors for continued enjoyment of our hobby and some are dependant on the same vendors for an income. None of us need a vendor that sells defective parts and offers no help in fixing the problem. Any vendor that stands behind the product and works with the customer, shop or individual, is most welcome and appreciated. Part of the appeal of a bulitin board such as this one is to exchange the information abut vendors and skills from a larger group than each of us has access to in our local area. My area is small and there are maybe 5 folks in the State who still work or care about these old scoots. And that covers about 2 million folks. There may be more but Ut is large geographicaly and I won't know every one. So exchanging information like this is important. So, is it fixed, was it supported by the vendor and did you feel good about the time and money you spent. The bike looks like a nice project and there were a lot of Panheads out there. I just wanted to know how this went for you. Not all of us care for Tedd's buisness model but that may not matter if we can get what we need and the process is fair. You have the most invested with this one vendor and your experince with this provider matters to others. Putting the information into a book is work and the attempt to do that is appreciated.

Plumber: I don't think you have suffered any thing the rest of havn't aready. To much money, too much time and a bit of Bull-S### from the other riders with electric starters Etc. Just wanted to support the effort and it is effort to keep our pride and joy on the road with the new stuff. Sometimes that brand new RoadKing looks good to me and then I get somewhere and I have the only one inna crowd of hundereds. Then it is OK. Ya gotta love it when the bike you rode in on is still running when some of the new stuff broke onna way. Foot clutch is one of the best deterents to thieves, they have no idea how to steal what they can't pick up or ride. Park one of our older bikes next to a new one and we look small and compact. Get to the end of a 2 or 3 hundred mile run and at the front cause the new stuff won't go 100 mph for that long and.... you get the idea. Smile ride happy and sometimes "Ride it like ya stole it". Show some pics as it comes together.

Plumber: Just a note. A while back we had a discussion about the FX shift pattern. I said that the pattern was a product of the linkage to the ratchet lid. Down for a standard FL pattern and up for the FX pattern. from the picture I can now see why you wanted the special shift drum for the "Jocky" lever on the rachet lid. I might have made the shifter mount different but what you have looks good and works the way you wanted it to. Nice job and a good explaination for wanting that shift drum.

What shifter mount do you mean? The FX shifter cam/ratchet is unique way of riding. Another opinion up for scrutiny, but ride a sport shift first, then let us know what you think. http://nosparts .com has the FX shifter cam in stock. Otherwise obsolete.-----------------------------------------------------------I'm installing the rocker arms on the '56 heads Accurate re-manufactured. Getting the motor prepared before the Pro-Clutch arrives. The motor was running in June, 04. The rocker blocks are aftermarket, HDC brand. The arms have ground-sockets. There is .0045 sideplay. (Stock tolerance is .004-.025.) Torquing the rocker block studs to 15 ft. lbs. Clymers says 18-20 ft. lbs. We say 15, H-D doesn't say.

Last edited by Plumber on Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Plumber: The shifter plate mounted to the ratchet comes in two flavors. 1, pointed down like most FL and FLH. this connects to the foot shift lever with a rod. for standard forward mount and most floor board mounts. 2, pointed down. This is used with the "through the primary" shifter and foot peg mount. a much shorter shift link is used and operates in reverse due to the change in the shift lever at the foot shifter. I have two fl type 4 speed trans with the same ratchet lid and both with the standard shift drum. One has a 1 down and 3 up pattern just like most. The othe has a 1 up and 3 down simply due to the different link plate attached to the ratchet lid. If the "lever on the ratchet is mounted above the center of rotation then you get 1 up and 3 down. If the "lever" is mounted down you get 1 down and 3 up. as long as the rest of the shift linkage is stock. So in short to get a standard shift drum to work like yours I would have made the hand shift attach to the ratchet lid above the center of rotation and had the same shift pattern as you have with out finding a shift drum. It would look a bit different but it would work just the same as your set up. The choice is up to the individual and I do like the look you git with the setup you have.

In your experience are they being manufactured to fit eachother, or as replacements for the OEM parts, or a bit of both?

If the former, then one would expect that all V-Twin parts are guaranteed for fit to other V-Twin parts. In this scenario, one could assemble a true kit such as in the plastic model analogy. There might be the potential that with alteration they could be used as OEM replacements, with the onus on the buyer to modify as required.

If they are manufactured as OEM replacements, then one would expect them to be fitted and matched to Harley parts.

The problem I see here is that they seem to be neither. I would respect a true kit where the parts ressemble, but are not designed to be exact replacements for, Harley OEM parts. But it seems to me that many of the parts are neither. They're certainly not priced like they should require work.

47 Knuck, Any way I try to visualize mounting a jockey shifter, pulling back would turn the drum clockwise,for downshifting on a standard ratchet top. Hence the need for the FX drum, to facilitate pulling back to upshift. With the plates you mention,the rod mounting location is moved from the standard location (the bottom) to the top, which as you said,reverses the rotation of the shifter drum,really not any help to the jockey shift direction. Or am I missunderstanding? Mike

Here's the motor with 0.020" over S&S pistons, bored and honed (seasoned) Taiwan cylinders. This went in to Stett's on Oct. 14 and todays Nov.27, to give you a "down" time frame. http://stettsironhorseranch.com/Original Stett-build had Wiseco pistons and 35K miles on them. Cylinders were blasted and painted with hi-temp satin black.I used Harley-Davidson® 20W-50 from the first mile to the last mile. This time, I'm using Harley-Davidson® Grade 60, and maybe alternate between the Grade 60 and H-D 20W-50. Thanks to Stett, Michelle, Jimmy & Jason. First class assembly. Worth way more to my lifestyle than the reasonable sum they charged me to extend my motor's life. Saran wrap and blue tape are on me. It's my way of sealing what's already in place.Tape over the oil supply and return holes when the motor is sitting around.The AM regulator mount interferes with the vent line on the crankcase. Maybe I can slot the holes to move the bracket back, in towards the motor.Lakeside Bill made this up in '88. He knew the AM ones were a problem fit, and that rotating the V. reg. 180-degrees, you'd end up with the terminals more accessible positioned towards the front.

Last edited by Plumber on Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:06 pm, edited 8 times in total.

Did for which regulator.... One of those police radio jobs? Hanging under the coil? A magnet for mud?This angle iron keeps the regulator tucked in the OE position and squared away.Any pics of that under the coil mount? Something in Palmers book? What page? I'll post it.