The 8 Weirdest Animal Ingredients In Your Beauty Products

Women are savvier than ever about the products in their makeup bags and medicine cabinets. We look for skin-firming retinol, avoid endocrine-disrupting parabens, and favor organic options. But with names that sound more clinical than zoological, animal-derived ingredients are among the toughest to spot and size up. In fact, it would take a SWAT team of cosmetic chemists, dermatologists, and ingredient analysts to uncover the sneakiest ones and give you the scoop. So we rounded them up. Here's what's OK, what to avoid, and—if you prefer to go the animal-free route—the best plant-based alternatives.

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Carmine

What it is: Also known as cochineal or natural red 4, this red colorant is extracted from the body and eggs of the South American insect cochineal.

What it does: Lends scarlet and pink hues to lipsticks, shampoos, powders, and even food.

Experts say: Allergic reactions to carmine are rare, and natural pigment is actually a much safer alternative to toxic petroleum byproducts like red 2 and red 40, says Ron Robinson, a cosmetic chemist and founder of Beautystat.com.

Alternatives: Beet juice, alkanet root, and annatto extract are much harder to find, but are good plant-based red options.

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Musk

What it is: Dried secretion from the genitals of otter, beaver, musk deer, and civet cat genitals.

What it does: Serves as a base note and fixative in fragrance.

Experts say: Most fragrances now use synthetic musks, but even fabricated versions are trouble. Some research has linked them to gynecological issues because your body reacts to the molecules the same way it responds to the hormone estrogen, and there's also evidence that they're carcinogenic, says Sonya Lunder, a senior analyst at the Environmental Working Group.

Alternatives: Some "musky" fragrances actually use oils from pungent plants, like labdanum oil, but since fragrance ingredients don't have to be listed on the label, your best bet is to stick with all-natural fragrances—these are our favorites.

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Squalene

What it is: Also known as squalane oil, it's a carbon-containing compound found in shark liver oil.

What it does: Adds emollient and lubricating qualities to creams, lotions, and serums.

Experts say: There are no health concerns linked to the ingredient. "We know oils are good for your skin, and squalene is one of them; I recommend it," Robinson says.

Alternatives: Wheat germ, rice bran, and amaranth seeds. The only way to be sure squalene oil is plant-based is to buy declared vegan products, but because plant sourcing is cost effective, most of what you see on the market won't be from sharks, says Patricia Farris, MD, a New Orleans-based dermatologist and clinical associate professor at Tulane University.

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Keratin

What it is: Protein from ground horns, hooves, and animal hair.

What it does: Fills in gaps in a damaged hair shaft and helps seal the cuticle; it's ubiquitous in hair care products.

Experts say: Since your hair is made of keratin proteins, too, using the ingredient to help repair and protect yours is a smart move.

Alternatives: You won't find keratin in any plants, but the protein can be synthesized in a lab. Choosing a a vegan brand is the best way to avoid animal-sourced keratin (the kind most products use), says cosmetic chemist Jim Hammer, founder of the product formulation company Mix Solutions.

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Lanolin

What it is: Purified sebum from the oil glands of sheep's wool.

What it does: Lanolin is a powerful moisturizing agent commonly found in products for the skin, nails, and hair.

Experts say: "Cosmetic-grade lanolin is super hydrating and emollient," Robinson says. "You can certainly get those qualities in other products that are lanolin free, but you won't really get the same results."

Alternatives: Plant and vegetable oils, though there is no true botanical substitute for the ingredient.

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Hyaluronic Acid

What it is: Natural forms of the molecule come from proteins once commonly extracted from rooster combs, the fleshy red ridge that runs along the center of roosters' heads.

Experts say: It's safe, and dermatologists recommend it for plump, hydrated skin. In fact, hyaluronic acid's water-retention capacity is higher than that of any other polymer, according to a report published in the International Journal of Toxicology.

Alternatives: Manufacturers now make the ingredient by fermenting and purifying certain strains of bacteria. "We've moved away from the cockscomb process," Hammer says.

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Stearic Acid

What it is: A naturally occurring fatty acid usually derived from lard (rendered fat from pigs' abdomens) or tallow (rendered fat from beef or mutton).

What it does: This ingredient is a serious multitasker: It raises the melting point of cosmetics so they don't run and streak as you wear them, hardens bars of soap, lends shampoos a pearlescent finish, and serves as a binding and thickening agent in deodorants, lotions, and creams.

Experts say: This nontoxic ingredient can be found in plants, but the animal-derived form is actually more commonly used in products, Hammer says.

Alternatives: Although most vegetable oils contain 1% to 5% stearic acid, cocoa butter boasts 35%. To know for sure that a stearic acid is plant-derived, it's best to choose a product that says it's vegan—the label won't list the source.

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Collagen and elastin

What they are: Proteins found in the connective tissue of animals.

What it does: Creates a barrier or coating on the skin, commonly found in anti-aging facial skincare products.

Experts say: "Collagen and elastin can add to hydration, but they cannot stimulate your skin's won collagen and elastin growth," Robinson says. "It's too big of a molecule to penetrate the skin and it doesn't signal your skin to increase it's own production."

Alternatives: There are synthetic versions of the proteins, but this is another case where you'll never know which is being used unless you call up the manufacturer or choose a vegan product.

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