Churchill's Restaurant, 225 N. Liberty St., 727-0910. The...

DINING OUT/THE CRITICS' REPORT

Churchill's Restaurant, 225 N. Liberty St., 727-0910. The atmosphere at Churchill's puts it in front of many restaurants. The second-floor dining room is warm and inviting -- up a winding stair from an equally inviting but more casual bar. Churchill's seems to have high aspirations, but does not always meet them. We found the food good, but not great, for some rather lofty prices, and the friendly service grew less attentive as the evening wore on and the dining room filled up. The French onion soup and the vegetables that accompanied our entrees were the clear standouts -- along with the perfect red rose that graced each table. $$$expensive. (Last visited 5/91.)

Strapazza, 10-12 Allegheny Ave., Towson, 296-5577. If Strapazza is crazy, as its name suggests, it's crazy in the proverbially foxy manner. Part neighborhood pizza joint, part neat, neon-trimmed Euro-cafe, it has managed to find an audience as diverse as it is devoted. The casual fare, mostly devoted to "pizzabilities," "pastabilities" and sandwiches, is not uniformly wonderful, but the pastas have a -- and authenticity rarely found in Italian food at this bargain-price. $inexpensive. (Last visited 5/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Hampton's, Harbor Court Hotel, 550 Light St., 234-0550. Hampton's is expensive, young, and ambitious. Visibly, not invisibly, the staff exerts itself to satisfy those who, for a variety of reasons and at least for one evening, find themselves with deep pockets. Gardenias? Pansies in the potatoes? Of course. We liked a first course lobster and seafood terrine that cost $10. We liked an entree boneless breast of duck stuffed with a rosemary-herbed forcemeat that cost $24. We liked most of our $14 dessert plate for two. $$$$very expensive. (Last visited 4/91.)