A: Kimchee is a thing right now, Esther. Hipster pubs are making theirs spicy for hot dog condiments (Fathom Bistro on the Shelter Island pier). Urban wine bistros are putting it on their Brussels sprouts (Counterpoint). Even from-scratch kitchens inside hotels are making kimchee (Jsix).

Not a new trend, the dish reaches back to at least 7th century Korea. And the kimchee label actually is worn by a wide variety of vegetables pickled in seasonings like garlic and brine. I often see it around town as fermented napa cabbage. (No one I know will cop to burying their version underground the traditional way. Perhaps it’s something to do with sidestepping the health authorities?)

A friend with blood ties to- and passport stamps from South Korea told me there’s an old saying, “Never propose to a woman until you’ve tasted her kimchee.” Because it’s so essential to every Korean meal, and varies wildly from fermenter to fermenter.

“Ohhh the kimchee question is a difficult one,” that friend said recently. “Because each batch from any Korean spot will be so different from one day to the next." He added, "Manna BBQ and Dae Jang Keum are legit.”

A new Manna location is closer to you, Esther, and offers all-you-can-eat barbecue. Take the 78 east to 740 Nordahl Road in San Marcos (760-743-3300), but it's a noisy popular spot. Both restaurants feature grill-it-yourself 'cue, with cooking surfaces in the middle of their tables. Dae Jang Keum is quieter, with a more vegetable-friendly expansive menu, though.

Also, Old Village (4681 Convoy St., Kearny Mesa. 858-277-8625) is straight out of the 1980s, and makes a decent bibimbap. Of course they've got kimchee, but I'm really wild about one of their banchan, the glazy-sweet mirin potatoes.