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Saturday, 15 September 2012

Details

Thank you all for such encouraging and lovely comments on the completed hacking jacket. You've no idea how much they mean to me and I appreciate every one. Thanks again for taking the time to read, review and comment.

As a final instalment to the hacking jacket I thought I'd show some little details in construction.

The pink lining was chosen to tie in with the single pink stripe and to lift the muted colours of the wool shell. This was sewn in by hand as you have better control of the fabrics and the way it gathers and pleats as you sew. There is a pleat along the centre back for ease of wearing. I believe there are machines that try to replicate this hand sewn-in look for high end RTW. That's ironic - a machine invented to copy the idiosyncrasies of a human! To the trained eye however, a machine made 'hand stitch' is even, regular and straight - a real hand sewn row of stitches is slightly wonky, uneven length and v. expensive .

The jacket has two back vents. This is one with the lining hand stitched in place.

The lining body is loosely sewn to the arm scythes with a fairly large running stitch and the sleeves are then sewn to this without catching the fabrics underneath.

The sleeve linings are made separately, sewn to the cuffs and then into the arm. It looks messy but I've seen the inside of a Christian Dior jacket and it looks like this too, so I feel that I'm in good company.

When you cut through button holes you often find the white of the interfacing or canvas behind showing through. One way around this is to get out the colouring pens and with a matching colour, or colours, simply colour in the offending interfacing. Obviously you may have to 'touch up' with wear and cleaning but it does make for a less obtrusive button hole.

The Jean Hardy 875 pattern that I used has excellent instructions for the welt pockets, including the inside one. I added the tab in an attempt to keep the debit card harder to get at - LOL. My measurements were out when making this pocket that's why there is a big gap between the welts. But it's on the inside so I let it stand. Otherwise the pattern instructions are fairly weak and you definitely need additional sources for the collar, facing and lapels. The style is a good basic jacket though and I'm glad to have it in my stash.

The buttons are antique brass shanks. Larger size for the front with three smaller ones sewn to each back seam of the sleeves as a mock sleeve vent.

After this epic sewing project I'm in a little bit of a lull at the moment even though the new Vogues have arrived and there's fabric screaming at me from the stash box. I think I need a day or too to gather my thoughts and I'm really looking forward to sewing without checks, stripes, plaids or any pattern whatsoever!

Has anyone ever tried to insert a fly zip without pinning or tacking/basting?

Thanks for sharing all the little extra time and details that you have put into this jacket - it really takes it all to the next level of sewing. This jacket is truly a work of love, and looks brilliant on you. You will be wearing this proudly for many years...

Ruth, that jacket is outstanding. Be proud. Thank you for sharing the process of making it with us. Your work inspires me, so I am going to get off the blogs now and get back to the patterns, fabric, and machine. Looking forward to seeing more of your creations.

Yes, you've inspired me too and I feel ready to think about attempting a bigger project such as a jacket (I'll remember the felt tips!).

A couple of projects that I've really been dithering over require me to make replacement lining for an old RTW coat and jacket which leads me to say:

If you're in the habit of carrying a heavy bag, even a handbag, whilst wearing your jacket: don't. This will wear on your lining and may seriously reduce the life span of your beautiful pink fabric. Leave behind the kitchen sink or wear whilst strolling glamorously round the nearby beauty spots!

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About Me

I am a full time teacher, married with one teenage son. I started sewing seriously a few years back and have learned so much from other sewing enthusiasts' blogs that I felt I had to give something back. So this is a record of "things I've made" and as a big thank you to all you inspirational women.