There is awesome climbing on cliffs above the lower Dwarves Dawdle trail at the Umgeni Valley reserve in Howick, KZN. Full details will be available in Roger Nattrass' pending "Mega KZN climbing guide". Until then, this should get you started.

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'''GENERAL INFORMATION'''

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Umgeni Valley is a relatively new climbing venue situated in the sleepy town of Howick, 20mins North along the highway from Pietermaritzburg. Predominately a single-pitch Sports climbing venue with a few high quality trad lines found amongst the bolts (including the world famous ‘Crack Addiction’ and the X-rated ‘Hard Man’)

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The crag faces South-East looking over the valley to its sister crag at Hilton and down towards Albert Falls Dam. A great place for hot summer’s days as the majority of routes are out of the sun and shaded by the tall mist-belt forest surrounds.

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Grades are on the higher side with the majority of bolted lines being in the low to high twenties although there are a handful of teen grades.

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'''ACCESS'''

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Entry to this WESSA run reserve is via the office at the main entrance off the Karkloof road. Climbers must sign a register, pay a small fee and take a permit/receipt with them as proof of valid entry.

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The crag is accessed either along the higher Dwarves Dawdle trail which drops down into the valley, or the lower trail that leads along the base of the crag. The majority of routes are found up-valley (away from Albert Falls Dam) of the wooden staircase joining the higher and lower trail. There have also been several new routes bolted down-valley (towards Albert Falls dam) of the staircase.

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Ask for a trail map at reception which will help with general orienteering and location of the ‘wooden staircase’.

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Contact details, information, maps and directions can be found at: http://wessa.org.za/regions/kzn/kzn-environmental-education-centres/umgeni-valley.htm

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Basic route descriptions can be found below or simply purchase a copy of “A Climbers Guide to Natal Rock” by Roger Nattrass which has all a climber needs to know about this venue.

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== Routes ==

== Routes ==

Line 74:

Line 88:

Roger Nattrass, 2008

Roger Nattrass, 2008

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'''Akward Turtle''' 24<br>

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'''Akward Turtle''' 24/25<br>

Andrew Scott, 2008

Andrew Scott, 2008

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'''Manic Mechanic''' 25<br>

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'''Manic Mechanic''' 25/26<br>

Roger Nattrass, 2008

Roger Nattrass, 2008

=== Trad corner ===

=== Trad corner ===

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''' ??? ''' 26??<br>

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'''Blitzkrieg 25/26 to be confirmed'''<br>

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Start under roof and follow seam tending right. Head straight up to ledge. Finish on FF

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Start under roof and follow seam tending right. Head straight up to ledge. Finish on FF.

Andrew Scott, 2009

Andrew Scott, 2009

Line 96:

Line 110:

'''Jail Bird Shaik''' 18<br>

'''Jail Bird Shaik''' 18<br>

Trad Route up Crack in face, ending at chains before top.

Trad Route up Crack in face, ending at chains before top.

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FA Gavin Raubenheimer

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Gavin Raubenheimer

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'''??''' ??<br>

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'''Technica''' ??<br>

Trad Route up corner, ending at chains before top.

Trad Route up corner, ending at chains before top.

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FA ??

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Gavin Raubenheimer

Revision as of 10:14, 18 January 2013

GENERAL INFORMATION

Umgeni Valley is a relatively new climbing venue situated in the sleepy town of Howick, 20mins North along the highway from Pietermaritzburg. Predominately a single-pitch Sports climbing venue with a few high quality trad lines found amongst the bolts (including the world famous ‘Crack Addiction’ and the X-rated ‘Hard Man’)
The crag faces South-East looking over the valley to its sister crag at Hilton and down towards Albert Falls Dam. A great place for hot summer’s days as the majority of routes are out of the sun and shaded by the tall mist-belt forest surrounds.
Grades are on the higher side with the majority of bolted lines being in the low to high twenties although there are a handful of teen grades.

ACCESS

Entry to this WESSA run reserve is via the office at the main entrance off the Karkloof road. Climbers must sign a register, pay a small fee and take a permit/receipt with them as proof of valid entry.
The crag is accessed either along the higher Dwarves Dawdle trail which drops down into the valley, or the lower trail that leads along the base of the crag. The majority of routes are found up-valley (away from Albert Falls Dam) of the wooden staircase joining the higher and lower trail. There have also been several new routes bolted down-valley (towards Albert Falls dam) of the staircase.
Ask for a trail map at reception which will help with general orienteering and location of the ‘wooden staircase’.
Contact details, information, maps and directions can be found at: http://wessa.org.za/regions/kzn/kzn-environmental-education-centres/umgeni-valley.htm

Basic route descriptions can be found below or simply purchase a copy of “A Climbers Guide to Natal Rock” by Roger Nattrass which has all a climber needs to know about this venue.