A GOOD APPETITE; A Trail That Leads Through Many Meals

By MELISSA CLARK

Published: July 11, 2007

IT'S not often that a peanut butter and banana sandwich will inspire a spicy, grilled chicken dinner. But such was the case one recent afternoon, when I was simultaneously preparing one meal and daydreaming about the next.

I had just lugged home a brand new cast-iron grill, so naturally, as I smeared peanut butter onto seven-grain bread for lunch, I was also contemplating grilled chicken legs for dinner. I could just picture myself standing on the deck at dusk, gimlet in one hand, oversize tongs in the other, flipping drumsticks cloaked in crisp skin that was ever so slightly charred around the edges. Fragrant smoke wafted around me in my mind, and I inhaled the aromas of sizzling chicken. And garlic. And ... um. ...

The shimmering fantasy faded. What else, besides the garlic that neither chicken nor I could live without, could I massage over those legs?

That's when I noticed the recipe on the cap of the extra-crunchy. Peanut sauce, it read, good for noodles and chicken. The ingredient list contained garlic powder, soy sauce, cayenne and granulated sugar. I could practically taste it -- a cloying, stick-to-the-roof-of-the-mouth paste. But it did spark more delectable memories, like a peanut satay sauce.

A spicy, chili-flecked peanut concoction slathered over the chicken legs was starting to sound mighty appealing. Except I had finished the last of the peanut butter and there weren't any peanuts in the house to grind up. But an excavation of the cupboard revealed a jar of cashews. Why not use those instead? It was easier than going to the store.

The dish was starting to take shape. Since I had to dirty the blender by grinding the nuts, I figured I would grind up the rest of the ingredients, too, which would save me the trouble of mincing and mixing.

Then I poked around the kitchen for other things to add. Garlic was in plentiful supply, so I tossed in four fat cloves, along with some jalape?that I keep around in the summer for emergency guacamole.

Here's something I've learned about jalape? These days, most are bred to be as bland as bell peppers. So I never automatically seed them because the seeds and veins contain most of their heat. But occasionally, you encounter a really fiery specimen. My rule of thumb is to halve a pepper and lick the guts. If there is a mild sting, I leave in the seeds. If I leap up screaming, I consider de-seeding.

Also in the fridge for guacamole was the end of a bunch of cilantro. There weren't enough leaves left to make an impact, so I threw in some of the stems as well, which have an intense flavor of their own.

I needed to add some liquid, too, for a proper consistency. Soy sauce was a good idea (thanks, Smucker's) and so was fresh lime juice, which would pair well with my gimlet. I also added oil to help distribute the flavors and to keep the chicken skin from sticking to the new grill grate.

I whirled it all together and applied half to the chicken, leaving half to serve as a sauce alongside. When the sun started to set and the mosquitoes made their buzzing appearance, I lighted the charcoal and waited for it to glow. Then I added the chicken, carefully tending it while gimlet-sipping, just as I imagined.

Those drumsticks rolled off the grill juicy and burnished, and the cashew sauce was even more marvelous than most peanut satays. It had a salty, buttery richness that tamed the heat from the chili, and a touch of sweetness from a dash of brown sugar.

It all got me thinking about my next meal, breakfast. Maybe a berry-yogurt-banana parfait with chopped toasted cashews? Thus the happy cycle continues, one meal into the next.

1. In a blender or food processor, combine nuts, 2 tablespoons cilantro, oil, garlic, soy sauce, sugar, jalape?lime juice and 2 tablespoons water. Blend until smooth, scraping down sides as necessary. Taste and season with salt and pepper if desired.

2. Season chicken all over with salt and pepper. Smear on enough cashew mixture to thoroughly coat pieces. (Set aside any remaining mixture.) Let marinate at room temperature while you heat grill or broiler. Or refrigerate for up to 12 hours before cooking.

3. Preheat broiler or grill. Grill or broil chicken, turning frequently, until it is crisp and golden on outside and done on inside (cut a small nick to check), 20 to 30 minutes.