SPFs To Slather On Your Face, According To A Skin Scientist

If you're yet to find a sunscreen you'll wear every single day, one of these could be it.

Sunscreen: we all know we should apply it, but many of us are still taking a sporadic approach (to say the least) when it comes to swiping it on.

Despite 30 years’ worth of Slip, Slop, Slap campaigning and a range of powerhouse SPFs on the market, there are still countless Australians who do not know where to start when thinking about their own sun protection.

A PhD-qualified scientist, science educator, and ex-Registered Nurse who has been researching skincare science for more than 15 years, it’s safe to say she knows her stuff.

The great thing about Michele, unlike many skincare experts and dermatologists, is that she isn’t affiliated with any one brand. She assesses products objectively based on their ingredient profile – as opposed to what her bottom line from company kickbacks looks like.

“Everyone’s skin is different. You can shortlist on paper for some of these criteria, but you really won’t know if a sunscreen is right for you until you put it on your face and try it with your daily skin routine and makeup,” Dr Squire explains.

And if you thought you were covered with your foundation, unfortunately that’s not the case. As it’s a makeup product, not an SPF, it isn’t required to be registered with the TGA (Therapeutic Goods Administration) which is the regulatory body that fact checks such claims.

“You need to be using a primary sunscreen with at least SPF30+. Use the SPF of your choice as long as it is TGA registered. To get the advertised SPF, apply ¼ teaspoon for your face and another ¼ tsp for neck, chest, ears and back of neck.”

Her criteria for choosing a sunscreen? It needs to be photostable with broad spectrum UV filters, leave skin feeling primed and hydrated and ideally contains other ingredients with skincare benefits.

“I typically like a glowy, hydrating finish that isn’t heavy or sticky – for this reason, chemical/organic filters are my go-to. I find even the nanoparticle inorganic/mineral UV filters are too heavy in Australian summer, many of these feel too dry and matte on older skin, and they are difficult to reapply during the day.”

“Recently TGA-registered and available in Australia, this tinted SPF50+ sunscreen is a new favourite. It’s marketed to reduce pigmentation and contains potassium azeloyl diglycinate - an ingredient that may reduce pigment formation in the skin (if you have existing pigment you will need to use it with other pigment-reducing ingredients in your skincare though). More importantly from a pigment perspective, it has excellent broad-spectrum UV filters to minimise melanin production if worn correctly (the skin doesn’t need to produce its own sunscreen – melanin – if you filter the damaging UV for it!). It also has a very elegant and wearable formulation, meaning you will want to apply it.”

“No surprises here – this one always makes my list! Has both tinted and untinted versions. Excellent UVA/B protection, well priced, readily available from pharmacies, and meets all my stringent criteria. Nothing more to be said really.”

“It doesn’t offer a tinted version, but also doesn’t create a white residue on skin. This one has excellent UV protection but is also beautifully hydrating so fabulous as a moisturiser/primer/SPF combo (just remember to apply the recommended amount!). Bonus: this one reapplies like a dream over makeup during the day – just warm in the hands and gently press it onto skin.”

And remember: sunscreen isn’t enough on its own to completely protect you against burning, skin damage (especially if you suffer from melasma), and skin cancers. Sunscreen is only one of the tools we can use in association with protective clothing (hat, protective clothing, and sunglasses) as well as staying out of the sun when the UV index is highest. If you’re not sure, use the Cancer Council’s SeeUV app to check the UV index for peace of mind.

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