Friday, March 29, 2013

Blessings

I've decided to feel genuinely grateful that the universe wants to give me every opportunity to internalize this pattern alteration process.

Meet the beginnings of muslin 3.5 (those green lines represent where the next test garment's seam allowances differ from the, now sliced up, current one):

I just can't bring myself to call it muslin 4.

I honestly think I might have a nervous breakdown if I have to draw all of those markings one more time. Though it does occur to me that I can do whatever I want.

Fuck it. I've got the grainlines running straight and the HBLs are level. Next round, I'm not drawing the seam allowances. I REFUSE.

I was all smug and ready to move to the real fabric when I talked to S on the phone. She asked me to send her a pic of me wearing the muslin, arms raised over my head. I told her I didn't think that was actually viable (but I didn't care).

Turns out I care.

Of course, once I redraft the armsyce (and tinker with other seams), I'm gonna be all back to scratch on the sleeve.

i have yet to really understand how sleeves and armholes work. with my fuzzy grasp, i've just been lucky to have not totally botched it when i made a blazer and a winter coat last year! i'm always shortening the depth of the armhole and that generally helps mobility. good luck!

Oooh, that makes me sound really good! You trace them by using pins through the pattern paper to mark grain and HBLs and then a ruler (or one of those seam marker gizmos) to go around the outsides of all of the pieces. Let's just say it takes a freakin' long time. Like way longer than to sew the muslin. But it's scarily useful. Especially for the first couple of muslins.

Kristin, yes, that looks like very time consuming.... What if you put a wax tracing paper, between the pattern and muslin fabric and use a tracing wheel to trace the pattern, grain line, HBL, darts, just every darn thing at one go and use a double tracing wheel to add the seam allowance as well..... would that work for your needs?

Susan Khalije recommends this tracing paper in her couture class.....and this particular wax tracing paper is huge in size can be bought from Richard the thread (he sells only in package of 9 sheets for $36 - No, Not affiliated..... and is also available from Sunni's 'A fashionable stitch' store - one sheet at a time.

Do I have it? Not yet.... I freaking figured this out after I placed an order with Sunni but too late to change it.. Well, next time when I goto US. ;)

I use the tracing wheel and coloured paper when I'm reflecting changes from one muslin to another. The tracing wheel is a good idea. I don't love the wheel though, I find it challenging to maneuver. I haven't heard about that tracing paper. I have to go look at Sunni's shop again. Thanks!

Lord, I'm moaning about muslin 2 on a very simple dress. I shall shut up straight away and count some more blessings...one of them being I'm not up to muslin whatever on a jacket! You have the patience of a saint!

Thank you! The latest Empreinte bra (purchased online - I think that's the one you're referring to?) has not arrived yet. I suspect it will come on Tuesday, after the long weekend. It was shipped from France on March 18! I have SO many great (in my opinion) lingerie posts to write. But I haven't had a chance yet. Muslins have been taking all of my time. Pls. stay tuned. I should be able to get a couple of them written over the long weekend.

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