This past weekend I had the time to take a stab at bluing the cylinder, and I'm extremely happy with the result! Here it is side-by-side with the stock Tomenosuke cylinder still installed: https://imgur.com/a/mXI0R
As you can see, it's dark, but doesn't have the same matte finish as the Tomen so it catches the light more.

I figured I'd put down a quick walkthrough of what I did. All in all it took me about 90 minutes. Use gloves the whole time. I used the cheap, non-fitted, thin plastic gloves you'd use for picking up after your dog or something. I doubled up on them and swapped the top layer out after each step, and that worked fine. Not only is it caustic, but you really don't want to transfer oil from your fingers to the metal while working. I would highly recommend doing it outside... this stuff smells!

I used the Blue & Rust Remover first. I would suggest using paper towels with this instead of one of the swabs included in the kit. The swabs have a nice tight fit in the chambers of the cylinder, and I used them for cleaning/polishing later instead of wasting them here.
Rinsed with water, towel dried.
Don's cylinder didn't have any imperfections on it, so I didn't really need to use the included sandpaper or steel wool at this step.
Applied the Cleaner-Degreaser. Lather it up with this; make sure to get inside the chambers as well. When you're done, rinse with water, then do it again. You want to make sure to get ALL the oil off the metal. No such thing as too much of the Cleaner-Degreaser. Rinse and dry again (after each step, really).

Next was my best trick. A small Gerber baby food jar is the perfect size for the cylinder. I poured all the Perma Blue solution into the jar, then used a wire coat hanger and bent a tiny hook into the end to lower and raise the cylinder from the jar. I'm confident this was a much better approach than trying to evenly swab on the fluid, and I strongly recommend it. It will use all of the bluing solution, but it isn't very expensive so I didn't have any qualms about that.

Don't leave it in the bluing solution for more than a minute. Take it out, neutralize with water immediately. Rinse and wipe it clean of the excess bluing. It'll come out black, but sadly once you remove the excess it takes away a lot of that color.
Do a quick polish with the steel wool to even out the bluing. I thought the wool would remove most of the work, but it didn't. Just do a light, even rub. It helps a lot to achieve a uniform color.
Cleaner-Degreaser again. Rinse, towel dry, repeat with bluing.

All in all, I did five dips in the blue. The color got marginally darker each time but stopped being very noticeable after the third wash. Afterwards, I used the swabs to get all the excess bluing material out of the chambers. After you're all done, coat the cylinder in oil. There are oil wipes included in the kit, but I also completely drenched the thing in some Hoppe's gun oil and let it sit overnight. Use another swab to oil up the chambers.

This was my first time trying to do something like this, and I'm really thrilled with how it came out. Hope this helps anyone else unsure about how to do it, and thanks again to Don!

Last edited by CalamitysChild on Mon Jan 01, 2018 4:53 pm; edited 1 time in total

which you don't really need in my opinion, since the blaster is already heavier than most real firearms, being made of a revolver plus a rifle receiver. I know a lot of people are comparing weights of their blaster, but for me any metal version is really heavy enough.