Fun!

We started on lucky 13 (5.9), but I aided the first 9 or 10 bolts just to make it easy. The recent rebolting is awesome. I bypassed the anchor at the top of luck 13 and linked up with the easy 5th class pitch 2 traverse of alias bandit bench(5.8) and set up the belay at the base of Redline(5.7). My partner Anthony led redline and we sat and rested in the shade at the anchor at the bottom of Bill's Bad Bolts. Looking up at the route, it was intimidating. It was moderately overhanging and the first several bolts seemed to wander aimlessly. Most of the bolts were quite terrifying. They looked to be more of rusted up rivets that seemed to flex under body weight than bolts. The third bolt seemed to be newish, but didn't seem to be well set. It wasn't until I got to about the eighth bolt that I felt secure. It looked to be a shiny, solid 1/2 incher. After about 10 or 11 bolts, I made it past the overhang and the route went for another 9 or 10 bolts up a shallow, slightly less than vertical groove. Switching to free climbing at the top of the bolt ladder and climbing the short, maybe 15 feet or so to the anchor. The next 5.5 pitch was easy, however dirty and a little crumbly. The third pitch, 5.7, was short and well protected, but it was covered in dried up lichen that provided for a very insecure feel. From the top we walked down the meadow for our descent.

tricky 5.8

I started this climb on the first pitch where you move up the ramp into the corner and move up and left around the bulging arete. it was a very weird move for me. after that you move left along a grassy ledge and continue climbing up and left on the rock face to the first anchor. from there we traversed left and into the water chute and up to the base of the 4th class chimney. from there we made single, double rope rappel back down to the ground.

Fun climb, but I hate the tree.

I used this as my first practice aid climb. It's nice and vertical up to the tree, then it slabs out where you have make some long reaches and eventually just move into some easy free climbing. I later free climbed it on toprope and agree that the start may be harder than 5.9. The rock quality wasn't that bad for the Pinns.