Friday, August 22, 2008

Threading the Featherweight

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THREADING

========================================From: SadieRose@aol.comSubject: Felt under the spool

Another tip from Betty- one of my Senior Citizen quilting students(who passed away, and is sorely missed): cut a small circle of (black) felt,a little larger than your spool, with a hole in the center for the spool pin. Slide this over the spool pin, so the felt is between the top of your FW andthe spool of thread. Betty insisted this was very important. She alsoblamed some thread/tension problems on the new "lightweight" plastic spools-said the old wooden spools were heavier, and this affected the operation ofthe machine. I didn't question her, always keep my circle of felt on my FWs.----------------------------From: Shelley440@aol.comSubject: Re: Office Mom's question

According to my singer man, the reason the needle doesn't go down far enoughto catch the bobbin thread, is that there is thread build up under the throatplate and around the hook mechanism. I believe this is also covered in NancyJohnson Srebro's book. I had this problem with one of my machines and didn'tknow what it was at the time so had the repair man fix it. It should befairly easy to fix.----------------------------From: gjones@ccnet.com (Gordon D. Jones)Subject: Threading sewing machines

The Singer model 99K does indeed thread from left to right, unlike theFeatherweight 221, which threads from right to left. Why is that?, youask. As I mentioned in an earlier posting, the direction you thread theneedle is not intuitive, but is dictated by the mechanical construction ofthe machine. You need the instruction manual for that particular machineto be sure of the correct threading procedure. For the mechanically mindedor simply curious, here is a simple explanation to determine the correctdirection by examining the stitch forming mechanism.

This explanation is for a lock stitch machine that has two threads formingthe stitches. The upper thread supplied from a spool and going through theneedle eye, I will call the needle thread. The lower thread is suppliedfrom a bobbin. In order to form the stitch, the bobbin case (containingthe bobbin), is passed through a loop formed in the needle thread. This isthe case for the old oscillating shuttle machines with the bullet shapedshuttle. In the modern rotary hook machines and the oscillating hookmachines, such as the Singer models 66 and 99, the needle thread loop isactually pulled around the bobbin case with the aid the of the hook. Thisaction causes the two threads to be interlocked, hence the term lockstitch. How is this possible? The bobbin case is free floating and isjust sitting in the shuttle, with enough clearance around it for the needlethread to pass between the case and shuttle.

Now for the tricky part!

Let's look at the needle action. The needle goes down through the clothpulling the needle thread with it. As the needle starts back up, afterreaching the bottom of the stroke, a small loop is formed in the needlethread. Now is when the pointy thing must come by and either go throughthe loop (bullet shaped oscillating shuttle), or catch the loop (rotary oroscillating hook), and pull the loop around the bobbin case. Prettysimple! In either case, the needle thread has passed around the bobbin andinterlocked the two threads. You can see, timing is critical. The pointmust pass by the needle at just the right time in order to pick up theneedle thread loop.

Now if you examine the machine closely, while turning the hand wheel in theproper direction, you can watch this action and see the point of the hookor shuttle pass by the needle when the needle is just starting back up.You may have to remove the throat plate (the plate the needle goesthrough), to see this. Now you can see which side of the needle the pointpasses by. This is the exit side, or the side of the needle the threadcomes out of when you thread it. So now you if you understood any of this,you can determine which direction the needle must be threaded.

In the case of the model 99K, you must remove the throat plate in order tosee this action. The models 66 and 99 are oscillating hook machines. Thehook is circular and oscillates back and forth and does not rotate through360 degrees like the true rotary hook machines. You wll notice that theplane of rotation of the hook is horizonal for the 99K, while the plane ofrotation for the the rotary hook on a FW 221 is vertical. Either way worksfine, it's just necessary that the point of the hook pass closely by theneedle at the proper time. Enuf said!

Again, I want to emphasize the importance of getting the proper manual foryour machine. This way there will be no question about how to thread itand you will also have instructions how to properly clean and lubricate it.It's also a good idea not to do any disassembly that will effect machinetiming, unless you are a qualified sewing machine repair person. I haveencountered two FW221's in my classes that were out of time.

BTW, I was in a thrift shop a while back looking for sewing machines(imagine that), and found this little black beauty that said Bel Air on it.I thought it looked kinda familiar, then I realized it was an exact copyof a Singer 99K. It was in beautiful condition, looked as if it had neverbeen used. It was called a Bel Air Bantam and was manufactured in 1950. SoI had to have it and when I picked it up to,much to my surprise, it hardlyweighed anything. It is an aluminum 99K, weighs about the same as a FW221.It has a blue imitation alligator case that weighs as much as the machine.

Now about the stitch forming mechanism!! "Sometimes" I'm a dunce. On myFW, after the thread goes around the tension part, it then travels to ametal guide before entering the hole of that up-and-down 'thingie'. Aboutthis metal guide--I don't see it in the '50s models (don't know about'40s).

Anyways, I bypassed the metal guide and the thread went directly into the'thingie', etc, etc. In sewing the first few stitches, the thread snappedand snagged in the bobbin. Removed the snag (I thought) and realized whatcaused it. O.K. Include the metal guide in the rethreading process.Sew..snapped again.

As N. J-S suggested, I investigated and removed the stitch formingmechanism. Yep...an itsy bit of thread caused jam #2. Next problem:Sweatin' and frustrated, I could not replace the mechanism and didn't wantto force the issue. Next day, the pfaff guy who serviced my old Riccarshowed me how to replace it. Duhhhhh! It's easy when the sewing plate isremoved. N. J-S's book fails to include this big tip. However, she didsay where the position finger on the bobbin case should be before securingit with the retainer. So I learned yet another procedure. Since I'mlearning from readin' and askin', if it ain't in the book, I face awall. Gratefully, the techs who service my machines are very approachableand helpful.----------------------------From: gjones@ccnet.com (Gordon D. Jones)Subject: Thread jams

This is a note to address Susan Risty's problem, how to clear thread jams.The most likely reason for thread jams - turning the hand wheel backwards(always turn the top of the handwheel towards you), and not holding thethread tails when starting to sew.

For the procedure that follows, refer to Fig. 11, page 12 in theinstruction book for your Singer 221. That's the little green book thatcame with your Featherweight or if you don't have one, refer to page 55 ofNancy Johnson-Srebro's book "Featherweight 221 The Perfect Portable". Onpage 55 is reprint of the Singer book page 12, including Fig. 11.

First, determine what kind of thread jam you might have. Some jams can becleared by gently pulling on the exposed thread ends while rocking thehandwheel back and forth. Using a pair of tweezers helps. If you havedetermined that there is a piece of thread behind the bobbin case base,then removal of the bobbin case base is necessary.

Start by removing the throat plate, the shiny plate held down by two screwsthat the feed dogs protrude through. While the throat plate is off is agood time to remove the lint that accumulates around the feed dogs. Nowposition the machine on its handwheel end so that you have the view shownin Fig. 11. Remove the bobbin case, with bobbin. Now rotate the handwheeluntil the small screw shown in part B, Fig 11, is positioned at 2 o'clock.Nancy J_S uses 5 o'clock, but 2 o'clock allows for easier removal andreplacement of the bobbin case base.

Remove the small screw with a appropriatly small screw driver. I recommenddoing this in a place with a smooth floor, not carpet, so if and when youdrop the tiny screw, you can find it. If you loose the screw, you mayhave trouble finding a replacment. OK, now pivot the cresent shapedretainer (part B, Fig 11), as far to the right as you can. Now rotate thebobbin case base, the part with stud (A, Fig 11.), until the positionfinger( A2, Fig 11.), is at about 7 o'clock. You can do this only if thethroat plate is removed.

At this time you should be able to remove the bobbin case base with yourfingers. Sometimes you need to rotate it slightly from the 7 o'clockposition and sometimes the thread jam holds it tightly and you need to pullharder. In any case, use only your fingers. I don't recommend usingpliers, it's too easy to damage the part, and a small nick on the surfacewill cause the thread to catch. Believe it or not the needle thread passesentirely around the bobbin case base along with the bobbin case (containingthe bobbin) during the forming of the stitch.

After the culprit threads are removed, reverse the procedure to reassemble.With everything in the same position, the bobbin case base should dropinto place. You might have to rotate it back and forth from the 7 o'clockposition again.

CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION

When you replace the throat plate, be sure the position finger (A2, Fig 11)of the bobbin case base enters the notch (B2, Fig 11.) on the underside ofthe throat plate. If the position finger is not in the notch, the machinewill not sew!!! This caution is covered on the bottom of page 12 in thenewer Singer instruction books. The early books did not have this caution.

If plastic thread spools bounce around on your spool pin, making a lotof racket on your otherwise perfectly quiet FW, try using a cone threadholder behind your machine. You can purchase them in large fabric stores orin shops selling sergers. The spool or cone sits on a separate base and thethread feeds up high through a guide. I then attach a paper clip to my FWspool pin and feed the thread through, continuing to thread the machine asusual. If you use your FW for piecing quilts, a cone of thread lastsforever. Monofilament nylon thread cones also work.----------------------------From: Lisa Yee Estrada lisa@parcplace.comSubject: needles/threading for Featherweight

The manual that came with my FW said to use 15x1 needles. The Schmetz needles that I use on my other machine say 15x1 on them, so I tried one of those in the FW. It seemed fine. Is it okay to use those needles?

Funny you should mention this...

Last week I bought my first Featherweight. I couldn't get itto sew without tangling the thread, so I took it to my localquilting store. The woman who teaches the Featherweightmaintenance class looked at it for a few minutes and said,"You don't have a Singer needle here. *Always* use a Singerneedle in your Featherweight. I bet that's your problem."Sure enough, it was the needle!

I told her I was going to use the machine for piecing quilt,so I assumed that's how she picked the needle.

I'm not an expert, just passing along information.----------------------------From: Terry ragdoll@initco.netSubject: More advice on threading

CAITLIN: You said your upper thread was laying on the surface of fabric.Instead of dismantling your upper thread tension, try tightening the screwin the bobbin case. When the b. case is at the proper tension, you should:insert a full bobbin and thread it through the case; let the bobbin and casehang freely while holding only the protruding thread; the unit should slidedown the thread about 8-10" each time you gently yank the thread. Think ofit like a yo-yo. If the whole thing slides to the floor on the first yank,you know the tension is too loose, thus it will not pull your upper threadto the "center" of your fabric.----------------------------From: Silkeeee@aol.comSubject: re: Sickly Motors and other things

Someone also asked about why the machine keeps moving even when the clutch isreleased for winding a bobbin. I did have success with this manuver: Iremoved the little screw from clutch wheel on the balance wheel and unscrewedthe clutch wheel. Then I lifted out the little clutch nut inside. Then Ipulled out the balance wheel--but I didn't take it off the machine (cause itlooked like guts were coming out were I to completely remove it, and I DIDNOT want that to happen). After I'd gotten an area of about 1-2" exposed Isprayed it all with WD-40 cause there was lots of black gunk in there. Ithen wiped off the gunk, oiled it all up nicely, and reassembled the wholething. It now works fine.----------------------------From: KPXC38A@prodigy.com (MS EILEEN B SEAMAN)Subject: big thread loops under the fabric.

For Amy L, with the big loops under the fabric. That was the exactphrasing in the article in Quilting Today everyone has been talkingabout. Although the article is about fixing the Featherweight, maybeit applies to yours. It says "There is a trick to putting the throatplate back on. (If it isn't correct, giant loops will form on theunderside of the fabric.) When the throat plate is off, the arm in thebobbin area swings freely around. For correct operation, this arm mustbe in the 12 o'clock position to fit in the notch on the underside ofthe throat plate.

To achieve this: 1) place the arm at the 12 o'clockposition while the bed extension is up and hold it there with one hand.2) with your other hand, put the bed extension completely down and slipon the throat plate. Check the arm to be sure it is in the notchbefore putting the throat plate screws back in." Good luck with yours.----------------------------From: Santilla@aol.comSubject: Various threading hints

There is a hints section in the service manual that addresses someproblems I've heard discussed on this list.

When machine is noisy check: a) excessive play in hook driving shaft. b)throat plate incorrectly seated. c) excessive end play in horizontal armshaft. d) excessive end play in feed shafts

Just thought I'd pass on this little eye opener. I've been using my 1935 FWon EVERYTHING for some months now, and after one oiling it was sounding veryloud. I went over the whole thing and couldn't find anything wrong. Then Istarted on a project that I didn't want to use dark purple thread on ...The thread was the culprit! Although I can't see a difference in thicknessbetween it and the medium green and light blue threads I've used since (andthe light blue is the same brand and weight, according to the label), it mustbe just enough thicker to make the rubbing of the spool thread against themachine parts to be real loud.

So if your baby has been making a lot of noise lately and she's well oiledand you can't find anything wrong, try changing the spool thread.----------------------------From: Moonsage2@aol.comSubject: Proper Threading Techniques

TensionThere are several things to check and do....1. New needle...I use a Singer when trouble shooting this problem. They arelonger and some Singers are picky. This may appear like a joke but read themanual and be SURE the needle is in the correct direction. The side you putthe thread in the eye should have a groove running down the shaft. You canfeel it with you finger nail. That is very important.

2. GOOD thread. Not old and cheap. I use Coats and Clarks. New spool asthread does weaken over time. Now put the spool on with the bar code side up.That is the side where the slit is that holds the thread end. This has causedme to get a machine for next to nothing as it catches the thread and then ifyou pull it may let it go. Also see that you have some felt or leather underthe spool (the red circles you see and think are cute) This protects themachine and also keeps the spool from spinning instead of feeding....then thethread wraps around the spool pin.

3. Set the tension at the middle setting....just do it.

4. Sew on a piece of cotton fabric. Look at the work. A. Loopy on bottom? Recheck the threading and the needle is in the rightdirection. B. Pulled and jerked or broke thread? With the foot down and the threadunder the foot and you are pulling the top thread to the back of themachine...does it flow OK or is it impossible to pull? That is a tensionproblem. C. Loopy on top? Check the bobbin. Is it thread correctly and thebobbin in the correct direction? The thread should come off to the right withthe bobbin in the bobbin case facing you. The tension of the lower caseshould be so that if you held the thread and let the bobbin case fall from youhand (remember to catch it with the other hand). It unwinds up to 2 roundsand stops.

5. It will be the top tension in most cases....take it apart for the 10,001time with the foot up. Now this time lets assemble it with the spring turnedover 180 degrees from where you had it. Make sure the discs are clean (notoiled) and they touch at the center and do not fit together like spoons. Whenyou put the final screw on be sure that you have it in just as much as neededand not tighten. Now lower the foot and do the pull test again with thesetting at 5. It should have some resistance but flow.

6. A sew test is when you use a piece of fabric (cotton) folded on the biasand you stitch 1/4 inch from the edge. (you can be a little more or less)Using both hands hold each end of the seam and quickly "pop" it hard enoughyou head stitches break. Look on either side at the break...put a pinthrough...is the other side broken there? If so it has a balanced tension.If not e-mail me and I will send you more in depth instructions.

NOTE: The tension works only when the foot is down. That is so you can pullthe thread and fabric from under the foot with ease. Anytime you pull themout pull to the back and you will have less problems with broken threads andneedles.

In the FW book she remarks about something that I have seen often. About 50%of the machines (including the ones coming from the repair shop) has thetension spring upside down. It will go in either way and correctly the smallloop should be up. The second most common thing is the needle in backwards.I got a machine for $2 as it was threaded on the wrong side of the needle.She never got it to work right and on the inside of the case top was handwritten instructions telling her how to thread it.....wrong.

To thread the bobbin case. Hold the case with you left hand. Put the bobbinin with the thread coming off to the right. Holding it with the case with theleft thumb and forefinger look and see that the 2 screws are at the 12 o'clockposition. Take thread end out about 6 inches at most.....hold the bobbin sono more comes out by adding pressure as you hold it in the left hand. Nowtake the tread at the end with the right hand and guide it to that slot at 1o'clock on the case....once in there pull down and to the back of the caseuntil you feel a slight click. Now it is threaded. Holding it so the bobbindoes not fall out look on the back of the case....with the 2 screws at 12o'clock there is a lever end at 7 o'clock. Pull that up and it will hold thebobbin in the case until you put it in the machine. The case goes into themachine with where the thread comes out at the top. It will click into placeand when you release the handle it pops back into place on the case. BTW thathandle is how you get it out also.