Does anyone know 1) what the right pn is? and 2) is there anything special here or will any 10W 12V bulb with the same length and contacts do the job?

57chevyconvt

12-28-2011, 10:29 PM

My Dometic RM1350 manual shows a pt. no. 2007290006 for the 10 watt 12 VDC lamp. I would recommend checking with Radio Shack to see if they have a replacement bulb, they have a varity of bulbs that you will not find in the Big Box stores. Lowe's also has some bulbs that might fit this application.

pegmikef

12-29-2011, 12:09 PM

Batteries Plus has started selling light bulbs too.

danemayer

12-29-2011, 01:11 PM

Thanks everyone. I checked continuity on the bulb and it looks ok. No voltage across the pins. When the weather improves I'll have to investigate outside.

JohnDar

12-29-2011, 02:10 PM

Dan, looking at the schematic for your refer, you might want to check the door switch for the light. From what I can glean from the manual, there isn't much outside that concerns the light. Is the refer working normally, otherwise?

danemayer

12-29-2011, 04:28 PM

John,

Yes it's working fine except for the light. I did notice two spring loaded contacts at the bottom of the left-hand door which are probably 'p' on the schematic. 'n' appears to be the lamp.

I'm not sure I understand the diagram.

It looks like black wires, designated '1' , from the switches, are ground. The '3' wire from connector p6 looks like it might be 12V supply. It would seem like the spring-loaded pins provide a path to ground when the doors close; which would turn the lamp on with doors closed. That seems backwards.

Also, it's not clear what the purpose of the '1' wire from 'P7' would be.

Can you explain how the circuit works?

JohnDar

12-29-2011, 10:45 PM

John,

Yes it's working fine except for the light. I did notice two spring loaded contacts at the bottom of the left-hand door which are probably 'p' on the schematic. 'n' appears to be the lamp.

I'm not sure I understand the diagram.

It looks like black wires, designated '1' , from the switches, are ground. The '3' wire from connector p6 looks like it might be 12V supply. It would seem like the spring-loaded pins provide a path to ground when the doors close; which would turn the lamp on with doors closed. That seems backwards.

Also, it's not clear what the purpose of the '1' wire from 'P7' would be.

Can you explain how the circuit works?

Dan, I have no idea what that #1 from the lamp to P7 on the circuit board is for. The switches break contact when the door is closed by the pin being pushed in and moving the contact reed off the connection. I agree with #3's looking like +12V lines and #1's being -12V or ground.

danemayer

12-30-2011, 09:59 AM

I've attached the wiring diagram with notations on the area in question. Any electrical engineers out there who can explain how the lamp circuit works and what to test for with a volt meter?

danemayer

12-31-2011, 04:11 PM

Well, I don't know whether to be happy about this, but the light started working again. There was a power failure throughout the park and nearby city this morning. We ran off the generator for a couple of hours, and then on battery for a few hours. Power came back on and now the light works. I had already tried turning the refrigerator off with no change.

Although the refrigerator automatically switched to propane and back to AC and back to propane and back to AC, it seems like something electrical must have been reset. Maybe the logic card?

Problems that come and go on their own are the worst.

danemayer

04-21-2012, 01:12 PM

Of course the light later went out again. The good news is that we're at the Heartland South Texas Chapter Rally in Spring, TX and Ron Hoover RV came out with a couple of demos and brought one of their techs to fix minor problems. He found the problem! There's a 5 amp automotive style fuse on the circuit board that was loose in it's mount. He took the fuse out, tightened the mount and reinserted the fuse. It's working again. Thanks Miguel from Ron Hoover RV.

JohnDar

04-21-2012, 02:19 PM

So that would be part G or F on the circuit board, right? Always on the hunt for troubleshooting tips.