Like you mention, there's a hole in between the volume and tone knobs on the 10-hole that is absent on the 13er, but other than that the others all line up.

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+1. 9 of the 10 holes line up with the original pg. The 10th hole referenced above falls in an area with no hole. You can either drill or leave it with no screw. I had the 10th hole drilled by a tech here in town when I replaced the pg on my AVRI '62. Bought mine from here: http://angela.com/search.aspx?find=992020 for $40. Price is back up to $60 now.

If you haven't replaced a pg on a P bass, it's a little more involved than on a J because the tone and volume knobs as well as the input jack are secured to the pg. If you're not careful you can pull any weak solder joints loose.

The reason I ended up taking mine to a tech is one of the solder joints on my input jack came loose as I was working on it. Since I had to take it to a tech to repair, I just had him drill the 10th hole. I'm glad I did because there are some simple precautions to take to avoid cracking the finish.

When you remove the original pg, you'll notice a thin metal shield under the pg. If you don't intend to drill the 10th hole, just leave it in place and proceed with the replacement. This is the easy way, but leaves you with only 9 screws securing the pg. The 10th hole will allow the metal shield to show through that hole.

I was tempted to drill the tenth hole right through the metal shield with the gold pg installed. I'm glad I didn't because the tech said the drill bit could have heated the metal and damaged the finish of the bass. Since I couldn't get used to the missing 10th screw, I traced the 10th hole on the metal shield and then removed the gold pg and metal shield. I drilled the 10th hole into the metal shield while it was off the bass then reinstalled. At this point, you have 10 holes in the metal shield that line up with the 10 holes of the gold pg. Now you see the finish of the bass through the 10th hole instead of the metal shield. All that's left at this point is the drill the 10th hole and install the screw.

It's not rocket science, but if I understood all this going in I would've been more prepared. I did this about three months ago and I'm still loving it. It'll look a lot like this when you're done:

+1. 9 of the 10 holes line up with the original pg. The 10th hole referenced above falls in an area with no hole. You can either drill or leave it with no screw. I had the 10th hole drilled by a tech here in town when I replaced the pg on my AVRI '62. Bought mine from here: http://angela.com/search.aspx?find=992020 for $40. Price is back up to $60 now.

If you haven't replaced a pg on a P bass, it's a little more involved than on a J because the tone and volume knobs as well as the input jack are secured to the pg. If you're not careful you can pull any weak solder joints loose.

The reason I ended up taking mine to a tech is one of the solder joints on my input jack came loose as I was working on it. Since I had to take it to a tech to repair, I just had him drill the 10th hole. I'm glad I did because there are some simple precautions to take to avoid cracking the finish.

When you remove the original pg, you'll notice a thin metal shield under the pg. If you don't intend to drill the 10th hole, just leave it in place and proceed with the replacement. This is the easy way, but leaves you with only 9 screws securing the pg. The 10th hole will allow the metal shield to show through that hole.

I was tempted to drill the tenth hole right through the metal shield with the gold pg installed. I'm glad I didn't because the tech said the drill bit could have heated the metal and damaged the finish of the bass. Since I couldn't get used to the missing 10th screw, I traced the 10th hole on the metal shield and then removed the gold pg and metal shield. I drilled the 10th hole into the metal shield while it was off the bass then reinstalled. At this point, you have 10 holes in the metal shield that line up with the 10 holes of the gold pg. Now you see the finish of the bass through the 10th hole instead of the metal shield. All that's left at this point is the drill the 10th hole and install the screw.

It's not rocket science, but if I understood all this going in I would've been more prepared. I did this about three months ago and I'm still loving it. It'll look a lot like this when you're done: