**FOR SALE ** Project Street Legal Stocker

I’m selling my pride and joy to pursue other interests.
Here is your chance to own a very competitive bracket car and mostly
original Mustang LX. These cars are getting harder to find in clean
condition. It is accident free and 99% original making it a great
restoration candidate. It has been well maintained and received
only tasteful modifications.

The car has a completely rebuilt 302 / 5.0 with numerous upgrades
including head work, windage tray, rare M2 lower intake, and many
other upgrades. Only 5000km on motor since being rebuilt. Complete
performance exhaust installed (sounds amazing). AOD transmission
with firm TransGo shift kit and a 3400 lockup Edge converter. The
rear end hosts 4.10 gears and fully rebuilt clutch pack and all
new bearings. Interior is gray and is stock with the addition of
an Auto meter tach and SN95 seats. Exterior is red and rust issues
are minor since the car hasn’t been driven in the winter for
many years. Lots of recent maintenance has been done including new
windshield, radiator, suspension and brakes. I have all the original
parts I have removed from the car.

As a bracket car it is extremely consistent. Best run to date
is 13.78 at 99mph and the motor is 98% stock. Easy to drive and
competitive - I have three Wally’s to prove it. Email for
more details.

May 19, 2011
- new Raybestos rear 9 inch drums installed ($90) due to one drum
being out of round

Project Stocker

Welcome to my Mustang stock eliminator project. I do hope you find
some of this informative or entertaining. I grew up always drooling
over the 1960's and 1970's NHRA stock and super stock race cars.
Needless to say, I've been hooked on the prospect of class racing
since I was very young. Finally in 2003 I was able to spend some
time and money working towards my goal.

My goal: Build an NHRA stock eliminator legal
mustang that can be driven to the track and run under the class
index.

I've got a long way to meeting my goal. However, I've got some
great help available to me as struggle to improve.

The Car:

It is a 1988 Ford Mustang LX notchback with a 5.0 EFI and an AOD
automatic. The only options on the car are A/C and cruise control.
The car has undergone some minor changes over the past 7 years.
Current upgrades include:

4.10 Richmond gears

rebuild traction-lok

Transgo HP AOD shift kit (shifted in D or manually)

3200 stall 9.5 inch Edge converter (w/ lock-up)

Stock 5.0 motor

windage tray

MAC underdrive pulleys

180 degree thermostat

upgraded plug wires, plugs, cap & rotor, indexed plugs

Flexalite Electric fan

130AMP alternator

Lakewood 70/30 struts and 4 cyl springs

Lakewood 50/50 shocks and GT springs

Mickey Thompson 26 by 9 ET Streets

Flowmaster 40 series mufflers with dumps

190lph fuel pump

Removed the A/C system

Removed front sway bar

K&N

History:

I originally purchases the car in the summer of 2003 with 180,000km.
The car was completely stock - including the original plug wires
and silencer. As any AOD owner knows, the car barely could spin
the tires. Especially due to the fact it had 2.73 gears. As with
any high mileage car, I've done endless maintenance ranging from
brakes, suspension, to heater core(s) (Argh), and countless leaks.

Tips and Tricks:

I've been fortunate to have a very consistent car. In fact, on
many race dates I've varied as little as 5 /100ths all day long.
These are my thoughts on how to be successful at drag racing and
making a consistent starter bracket car.

Be a robot: the driver is a massive variable that gets affected
by ever little thing - much more so than the car itself. So, do
everything the same - make a ritual about how you enter the car,
enter the burnout, do the burnout, and approach the tree

Listen, listen, and listen more! Other racers are the real source
of knowledge. Listen to what they are saying to each other and
make sure to ask every question you may have...even the stupid
ones. I know as I've asked tons of them :)

Pay attention: Racers are an extremely competitive bunch of
people. They'll spend thousands of dollars and hours just to gain
a small advantage. Don't forget that.

Put your time and energy where you can make a difference: My
mantra has been make the car consistent and learn to cut good
lights. I'm sure I could wring another 3-4 tenths out of my car
at the cost of some consistency. The car can take years to get
dialed in. However, for $99 you can buy a practice tree.

Be alone at the tree: Ignore you opponent until your near the
last 200ft. It is you vs. the tree.

Cutting good lights = Win lights

Do the maintenance: If you hear a squeak or rattle or something
seems amiss - it probably is! Spend the time and money needed
to rectify the problem before it begins. It is no fun losing first
round but it's even worse to lose in the final because your your
starter just died.

Know your car: Make changes one at a time until you find out
what works for your car. Don't jack the fuel pressure, timing,
adjust the tires, etc.. all at once. You need a planned approach
for understanding what works best for your car. Make changes that
make your car more consistent not necessarily faster. In my case,
I often tell people I'm running about 90% - and I'm not referring
to nitro - by taking out some timing and rpm my car responds by
being more predictable.

Sponsors:

My quest for success would not be possible without supports of
friends. Thank you to: