My 2007 dodge with 90000 and no problems just arrived in San Diego this afternoon, the 6 speed Chrysler trans and 6.7 done a fine job, really shines on the long grades, cruising at 1550 rpm and 63 mph......

That's kinda why I responded to this post. High mileage means out of factory warranty to me. That means I have to eat all the repairs. My experience with high mileage comes from all the fleet vehicles I have driven over the years. Same exact drive trains that are used in the tow vehicles commented about in the forum so far. Repairs on diesels are very expensive. Those things are so complicated now with all the emissions and require big money to fix. If you can afford to trade every couple of years before the warranty expires then your covered. Enjoy all the huge power and economy. If you want to keep them beyond the warranty and expect to put high miles on them then expect to pay big money when they break. I wish it wasn't this way but it is. The older simpler diesels are great but you just can't find them. If you have one then keep it. Also, all the guys that chip and delete their emissions on late model rigs good luck on your vehicle inspections in the coming years. The Feds are tightening up the rules on emissions inspections every year. I chose an airstream for our rv because I wouldn't need to have a diesel truck to pull it. I'm a cheapskate and want a rig that I can afford to keep many years past the vehicle warranty. Gas is what works for me. May not work for others and that's cool.

October I picked up an '02 CTD quad cab long bed 2500 4x2 for $10k @ 151k miles, a Kingman Az. local.
I have been reinvesting $$ what I would have paid for a newer rig
Beefed up the tranny with a better torque converter, shift kit, and kevlar clutch plates.
Limited slip "Positraction".
Valve, A/C, belt, tune, oil, & filters service
Respray the Arizona sunburned paint on the roof & hood.
Power Stop brake & tow kit, cross drilled, slotted rotors & ceramic pads
Goodyear Wrangler A/T Adventure tires
Blue Ox hitch, rock tamers flaps.
Still waiting for the shell from ARE.
About $8k.
Looking at the Pacbrake, asked about a 6 speed auto transplant before rebuild.
Yet to tow, moving to Sedona area in April. Hope it pulls close to the freight liner I downsized from.
Some pix in gallery

DC Bruce,
Started with an 04 F250 Supercab 5.4l 4x4. Towed one year until first grand baby came along. Dear wife wanted more room for the grand kids so I got a 2012 F250 Crew Cab 4x4 6.2 model. First truck was enough for me, current truck is much improved. More power, room, comfort etc. If I was a GM fan I would've got the 2500 with the gas 6.2. If I was a Dodge fan I would have got the Power Wagon with the Hemi.

Gas pros for me are:
Less cost up front and for maintenance.
More reliability and less expensive repairs when they do break.(they all break)
Easier to work on and fix yourself.

Gas cons for me are:
Less power and fuel efficiency.
Less fuel range on the road.

The gas models have all the power I need to tow an airstream safely and with confidence. (I don't tow a bloated fifth wheel). I can repair most things myself and if I can't, most shops can with out breaking the bank. I am too cheap to buy more than I need. I could buy the biggest most powerful light duty pick up truck on the market but I would rather keep the money in my wallet to spend on the grandkids. Just a failed diesel fuel injection pump could pay for a full semester of college for them tykes.

Mine is nearing twelve years and is now over 200k miles. Have replaced ujoints as single repair. More to come as want to stay ahead of time and miles problems. Tires and brakes last over 100k. Original clutch.

Ampman-
Thanks for your answer. Chevy does not put the 6.2 DI engine; only the "tried and true" 6.0, which is 70 hp less. Have been leaning towards the RAM 2500 with either the 5.7 or 6.2 hemi gas engine. Still trying to figure out exactly what the real- world benefit of the 6.2 is over the 5.8.

You are correct, maybe I was just wishing they would put that 6.2 in the Chevy. Check out the Power Wagon with the big Hemi if it's still available. I would go that route myself if I had to do it all over again.

VT Wanderer,
Do you have the 6.7 engine or 5.9 engine?
I know a bit about the 6.7 since I own one.
If you have the early 6.7 engine your turbo trouble was likely caused by the smog emissions. If it is stock make sure you get all the latest flashes to the ECU as this will help the turbo/dpf issues if you keep it stock.
If you like the truck then it is worth fixing because it will last a long time.
Likely future issues for you:
- if 4wd you will need ball joints. If you buy cheap ball joints they will not last. There are different grades - seek out the good ones such as Carli, Dynatrac or Raybestos Pro. (other brands of trucks have their own front end issues - this coming from our fleet mechanic at work).
- u-joints - front axle and driveshafts - u-joints wear out.
- front hubs - these are sealed bearings but can be greased through the ABS sensor to extend the life
- emission delete - this will help extend the life of the engine and turbo. Use a programmer called "EFI live" but do not up the power as this puts extra undue strain on the drivetrain.
- 68 RFE transmission - 6 speed auto - very reliable, change the fluids/filters and don't up the power level of the engine.
- since you drive in the salt be proactive and keep electrical connections exposed to the weather clean and filled with dielectric grease. Check and clean the ground connections.
- back door windows and locks - the wiring at the B pillar will wear out from opening and closing the back doors. A new harness or wire splicing will fix this when it happens.
- Body work - is it getting rusty? only you can determine the condition of the body and if it is worth fixing vs. trading it in on something newer, body work is expensive.

You have a great vehicle to work with but dumping money depends on how far you want to go with it and if you are willing to do some proactive things on the truck.

I have an 09 that has had the emission/turbo issues so I have been bitten by the smog issue for the tune of several thousand dollars. The 4th generation trucks are much nicer inside than our 3rd generation trucks but for me at the end of the day my truck is worth fixing these small items.
The newest trucks are really nice as they have better creature comforts and the emission systems have gotten better along with the fuel mileage.

Crispyboy - thanks for the information - it's a lot to digest. Yesterday I just shelled out another $1000 for front and rear axle seals, transmission coolant line and oil and filter change. Looking at the cost of new diesels at around $60k, I can throw a lot of new parts into my current Ram. I just don't want to be in the middle of nowhere broken down on the side of the road. I always have the dealer give the truck a good "once over" to look for any potential issues prior to any major trip. Oh yes... funny that you mentioned the back door pillar and the electronics. My harness crapped out 2 years ago. I have just been living with it.