Just a small tip. This chamois eye cup cover at B&H photo fits the DVX100's, and probably the DVC80's, eye cup perfectly. It's much more comfortable than the naked eye cup and quite inexpensive. Get several, as they will inevitably get rather worn with frequent use.

I'm a GL2 guy but I figured you guys might get a kick out of this. I saw a new eBay commercial yesterday. Its where a guy is trying to learn how to use eBay when his wife comes in and of course bursts into a huge musical number which is a take off of "Do you know the way to San Jose"

Anyway, at the end one of the dancers is holding a DVX100 as an example of one of the things you can buy on eBay. I figured they would use some cheap model but its definitely the DVX100. I just thought it was interesting so look out for that commercial.

I contacted ikelite for a quote, but am wondering if anyone has used the equinox, or other depth-friendly housing, possibly with more controls/viewing options.

Don't understand how you view the viewfinder, and how it appears underwater/lighting....., and optics are questionable. Would really like to see some footage shot with the equinox, or other, and if so, which model/mfg.

The price doesn't bother me... the functionality/output is what's in question.

IE: no iris adjustment
can you use filters on the cam

Remember seeing a website that had an awesome looking housing with all sorts of controls, but appeared to be made in cad, and was only a protype "dream" machine as far as could tell

• CrystalScan HDSC™ upconverts all video signals (including 480i/p) to 1080i HD. This results in a significant
reduction in jagged-line artifacts which produces a smoother, more natural image. Selectable 540p, for users who
want to display a progressive scan image from a progressive scan source, is available via the on-screen menu

Could this display 24p via firewire out of an NLE in true progressive scan?

okies, heres a q, how can i go about getting teh DVX to look similar to Beta SP? Basically the smooth rounded look of televisio?

Ive been messing with the setting and find that setting detail to lowest setting, with a master ped of -2 works, but for some reason there is jsut something missiing.. I have a colour phase of +2 which helps bring out the flatter colours, however i jsut dont seem to be gettin it.. I KNOW this cam can do it, as there is a soapy here in Oz which is now filmed with this cam exclusively... and they have right, (a bit red, but the resolutions and smoothness look the part)

im jsut curious as i think it would be a great Scene setting to have set up on the cam...

Recently I found that there are secret menu items that can be accessed via unusual button combination. They are as follows: Push and hold "audio Dub" (on the top, under the handle) While holding that down hit "Rewind" on the joystick, and keep it in rewind. While maintaining that then hit "Menu" button, and viola! Menu choiced #8 Diagnostic and #9 Settings reveal themselves in the menu .
So what the hell do these things do?

Okay, here is what I know. This I recently got a Panasonic Service Manual for the DVX100 (not easy to get BTW) and although it is written in Pidgin english w virtually no proofreading, I have learned the following- using the above button combination you get access to both a "Diagnostic" and an "Adjust" menu choice in your menu as well as the other choices you always get. The "adjust" menu should be left alone. It is to be used with engineer hardware & software to calibrate your camera, but doing it by the seat of your pants is foolish. Leave it alone.

HOWEVER, I have found the "Diagnostic" Menu to be very enlightening. It has two parts. the upper part gives you the choice of: Off, Video, Audio, or Both. and sample rate of Slow or Fast. Lets say you choose "Both", and "Fast." back out of the menu, and play a previously recorded tape. Where the audio meters normally are is now a "Signal Quality meter" if you will. Low levels good. red levels bad. It shows you the signal quality or error rate of the signal you previously recorded. Not quite a confidence head but still very nice feature. You may, I assume, see potential problems with your video head before they manifest themselves in a visible head clog...... We use it every day now that we know it is there to assess the overall health of our cameras. You can look at just video signal (I assume both writing heads shown as separate channels) audio signal or both combined. Sample rate is just how fast the display refreshes itself.

The lower half of the diagnostic page is an event log of shutdowns due to problems. Provided you set your internal clock right, it gives you month day and year, time, and a 4 digit code for errors. Also very helpful, for what else, Diagnostics.

I would be interested in hearing where people's "Quality meters" are bouncing around on average and the hours on their video heads. We have several cameras with 50 or less hours and on average say about 0-4 units mostly say 3 units on the meter. One camera has 120 hours and it's quality meter is averaging more like 5-6 units. (Anything over 10 units goes into red)
-Nate

I am going to record an audio important event and will not be able to audition levels. Knowing that 94dB SPL produces -32dBv from my mics, I needed to know where that was on my meters.

I used my Neutrix Minirator (accurate within 2dB) and piped some white noise and 1000kHz through the camera. With ALC on, I could not get a signal great enough to break 3 red bars on the meter. I would not have thought the limiting to be so severe.

With ALC off, I could easily get the meter to climb through the ceiling.

So my question is whether or not everyone else finds that maximum levels should be set to around 2 red bars with ALC on to avoid compression.

Just wanted to have some info and your comments on how strong the multi coating on this lens is. I mean if one doesnt have a cleaning kit, is it safe to use an alternative i.e cotton swabs.. etc ..Any answers will be much appreciated

I'm writer/actor trying to make the leap to filmmaker. I'm going to get the DVX100, but after going through a ton of posts, I still have a couple questions. First, I'm thinking of getting the PAL version. I know that adds inconvenience (need a PAL monitor, can't watch the footage on NTSC TV without converting, etc.) but since I'm only planning on using the camera for shooting films hopefully for a blowup to 35mm, isn't the extra resolution worth it. Seems every DV movie released is shot in PAL. And with FCP4, can't I convert the 25P finished product to 24P NTSC if needed? Is there any deal breaker in going with PAL?

Second, I'd like the best possible 16X9 picture and was considering the anamorphic adaptor, but in reading past posts, the focus issue and OIS not being recommended with the adaptor concerned me. And having to buy a matte box for filters, etc. seems expensive and a pain. The film will have a lot of handheld and I also don't want to find out in post everything is slightly out of focus. Would you recommend the anamorphic or letterbox/do-it-in-post, especially if I go PAL which will still leave me 432 vertical pixels after the letterboxing. Thanks for your help.