Journal of John Work, Dec. 15th, 1825, to June 12th, 1826

Introduction and Annotations by T. C. Elliott.

The publication of this journal was begun in Vol. 5. No. 2 (April. 1914) of this Quarterly
and
has
been completed in three parts instead of two as first intended; the introductory statements in
the previous numbers will be of assistance to readers. For the sake of those who may not see
the earlier numbers some of the annotations are repeated. The journal ends rather abruptly
just before the arrival of Mr. Work at Fort Vancouver in June, 1826, almost an even year after it
began with his departure from that same Fort.

This third part of the journal begins with Mr. Work in charge of the winter trade, 1825-6,
at
Flathead Fort or House located near the present Eddy Station of the Northern Pacific Railway in
Sanders County, Montana. He remains there until February and returns to Spokane House and
is on duty there with Mr. Dease, the chief trader, during the dismantling of that establishment in
the spring of 1826. He then proceeded to Fort Okanogan for a short time and joins the annual
"brigade" going down the Columbia river to Fort Vancouver, in June, 1826.

I have been asked to explain the meaning of the term "gummed," which is used quite
often
in these traders' journals. It means the smearing of the seams of the canoes or boats with pitch
or gum gathered from the forest trees.

Reference has been made (note 2, p. 85) to C. McKay, as a son of Alex. McKay of the
Astor party, but there appears to be doubt as to that relationship; quite likely C. McKay
belonged to another family. There is also a question as to when the furs from the New
Caledonia district began to come down over the Okanogan trail for shipment to Fort Vancouver;
that trade route was probably opened earlier. The Thompson river (Kamloops) furs had come
that way from the very beginning, in 1812.

Research as to the identity of the actual builder of the trading post called Spokane House
has progressed a little farther since the beginning of this publication; meaning the original
Northwest Company post and not that of the Pacific Fur Company. There are reasons to
believe that Mr. Jacques Finlay built it rather than Finan McDonald, as stated in notes No. 28
and 45.

This journal furnishes the source of our information for the beginning of occupation of
the
trading post on Marcus Flat. above Kettle Falls, and it is well to emphasize the correct spelling
of the name of that post. namely Fort Colvile; not Colville as corrupted. It took the name from
one of the directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, Mr. E. Colvile.

December 1825. Thursday 15 Stormy with sharp frost in the night. Mild pleasant weather
during the day. Had the men employed with Mr. Kittson opening and examining the Snake
(112)
furs, they are generally in good order but of a very inferior quality. they also do not answer the
description given of them as many small beaver have been called large, the nums are as
follows; 744 Large & 298 Small beaver and 15 otters.

Friday 16th Mild soft weather. The Kootenasy Chief paid us another visit and
after trading a
lodge and some Deer skins, got a small present and in the evening took his final departure for
the winter. He is going with his people to hunt in their own lands not far from the fort (113) on
their own river, where they intend to live on deer and endeavour to get a few beaver. On
account of the snow they are apprehensive that they will not be able to go sufficiently far off to
make a great hunt.-

In different conversations with the Kootanies since their arrival they express a particular
wish to
have a fort in their own country, and represent the communication by water much less difficult
than the Indians whom Mr. Kittson saw stated it to be,(114) and say that the part which Mr.
Kittson saw is the worst of it. They were told that they might depend on having an
Establishment on their lands next season either by land or by water. Every means should
be adopted to keep them on their own lands as they make much better hunt there than
elsewhere. Their unprecedented trade this fall is to be mainly attributed to their hunting in the
summer & fall on the upper waters of their own river and the Columbia.

It is out of our power to send people & supplies with them at present for want of
horses,
the six
we have here, some of them from the Snake Country are so lean that they are totally unfit for
the journey.-

Old LaBuche the F. Head chief paid us another visit.-

Saturday 17th Heavy rain in the night & the greater part of the day. The
Flat Head Indians to
the number of 60 to 70 arrived headed by three chiefs, they were all on horseback and came
singing and firing guns with a flag flying. (115)
We answered their fire with a volley of Muskets.
The Chiefs & some of the principle men smoked in the gentlemens' house, & all the
others in
the Indian House. The weather is so very bad that we cannot well put them out and they will
have to sleep through the houses the best way they can. It is too late to trade today. After dark
the men arrived from below bringing letters from Mr. Dease (116) dated on the 4th & 10th inst.
and five guns & 4 doz. gun worms which we requested, but no Tobacco is sent which is
unfortunate as it is an article which is in great demand and of which I am apprehensive we will
be short. Mr. Dease informs us that we will require to be down in time to meet the Express at
the Forks about the 5th of April. Without injuring the trade we cannot reach Spokane so early
as our Indians will not have arrived with their spring hunts.

Sunday 18 Sharp frost in the morning. Commenced trading with the F. Heads and by noon
had traded all the articles they had for sale when a present of 20 Ball & Powder & 2
feet of
Tobacco was made to each of the Chiefs and a remuneration made two of them at the request
of Mr. Ogden, per note, for services rendered the Snake Expedition & assisting in bringing
home the Snake furs.-Some others of the principal men got also a present of a few balls &
Powder and in the afternoon they all went off apparently well pleased. On account of the bad
road and weakness of the horses the greater part of the Flat Heads are not going to (hunt) the
Buffalo this winter but are going to pass the winter hunting beaver. This will probably occasion
a small quantity of Provisions being procured in spring than usual, but I expect it will be the
means of an increase in the more valuable articles of furs.

I have not yet been able to ascertain the amount of the Trade.

Monday 19th Overcast mild weather. Had the men busily employed packing
the Snake furs and
also those traded here, in order to send off two canoes to the Coeur de Alan Portage (117) as
soon as possible, so that the men may get the canoes back before the ice takes. Examined
yesterdays trade and find it to amount to 222 Large and 107 small beaver. 1 Otter. 4 Robes, 72
Appichimons, 1 Elk Skin, 18 pack saddles. 113 fath. cords. 4 Hair Bridles, 52 Bales, 3122 lbs.
dry meat, 119 fresh Tongues. 23 dry Tongues, 2 bosses & 10 « lb. castorum, which is
much
less than we expected. The greater part of the summer was occupied in pursuit of Buffaloes,
which prevented them from hunting beaver, and as they are not going back to the Buffalo at
present, they kept a considerable part of their meat to subsist on during the winter.

Some freemen paid us a visit, they were told to come tomorrow with the furs and get
some
supplies.-

Tuesday 20th Soft mild weather. The freemen A. Paget, C. (Loye), C. Gras
Louis, J.
Beauchamp & J. B. Gadwa delivered in their furs & received a little advance to enable
them to
pass the winter. These men would not accompany Mr. Ogden and were not to have received
any supplies. but Mr. Dease directed them to get a little in case they delivered in the furs.
Paget & Cadwa were unfortunate in losing a cache of 100 beaver which was stolen by the
Indians. Cadwa was ordered to be sent to Spokane. He denies that his engagement was only
to be free (118)
as long as the Company thought proper and seemed unwilling to go, but on being
told that he must comply he submitted, but with reluctance. The Indians traded a few
appichimans. The men employed finishing out the packs.

Wed. 21 Cloudy cold weather. The men employed gumming & repairing the canoes.
We had
no gum till the Indians were employed to gather it, or the canoes would have been repaired
yesterday. The Kootany chief & 6 of his men visited us, and after smoking traded a horse
& a
few saddles and appichimans.

Thursday 22nd
Some snow in the night, cloudy cold weather. Wind N. W.

Sent off 2 canoes 5 men each to the Schachoo (119)
Portage laded with the following articles
for Spokan viz 27 packages containing 762 Large and 3 76 Small beaver, 11 Martens, 10 Mink.
1385 Rats, 8 Elk Skins. 12 deer Skins, 70 Appichimans, 22 Saddles & 90 Salt tongues, of
the
F. Heads and Kootenay returns, and 21 Pieces containing 881 Large & 381 Small beaver, 16
Otters, 2 Rats & 7 1/2 lbs. Castrum, Snake Returns, besides 1
Bale private property, rivits
and
5 bales meat 60 lbs. each for the
peoples voyage down and back. The above part of the Snake returns is all that was brought
here by C. McKay & delivered in by the Freeman.

I wrote to Mr. Dease informing him of the state of affairs of this place and requesting
1/2
Roll
Tobacco and a few awls for the trade.-I wrote for the Tobacco the last time the Canoes went
down but was refused it on the plea that it was more required below. I have now urged the
necessity of its being sent here where it will be much required in the Spring.-The Men are
directed to make all the expedition in their power so that they may get back before they are
stopped by the ice, no danger is apprehended of ice stopping them before they reach the
portage. Three Men Ignace. Martin & Gadwa are ordered to start for the Fort with the
letters immediately on their arrival at the portage.

Friday 23rd Cloudy cold weather. The Indians are encamping about the Fort
where there are
now 21 Lodges. Some are going off to the Buffalo. The Pendent Oreilles are blamed for
stealing some of the Kootany horses. It is reported likewise that the Piegans have stolen 7 of
the best horses from the Pendent Orellies that went first off to the Buffalo. Two Beaver Skins,
the carcass of 2 deer & a few appichimans (120)
were traded. One of the old Freemen, Paget,
father-in-law to Cadwa, who was sent to Spokan, has come & encamped at the Fort he is an
old man & having only Gadwa to depend on, he did not go off with the others. He is a very
old
servant and always bore a good character. After what little provisions he has will be done, he
will probably become a burden on the Fort.-

Saturday 24 Cloudy cold weather. Wind N.W Some ice along the edge of the River. The
Indians traded a few Appichimans and Saddles, to obtain a little ammunition as some of them
are going off.

This being Christmas Day the two men here had a dram, and we served out extra each a
ration
of fresh meat, a tongue, & a quart of Flour. For the old freeman Bastang the same.

Five Kootany Indians of the Au platte tribe (121)
arrived and traded 14 Large and 4 Small beaver,
1
Otter, 17 dressed Deer Skins and 3 (parrefliches), principally for ammunition & Knives
& a little
Tobacco. Two Pendent Oreilles traded the carcasses of 2 sheep. females, the one weighed 62
& the other 60 lbs.

Monday 26 Overcast mild weather. the river clear of ice, except some patches along its
edge.
The men employed cutting firewood.

Tuesday 27 th Overcast stormy weather. Wind Northerly- The men employed
assorting and
bailing up meat. The Indians are still trading a few appichimans, saddles, & few furs.-

Wed 28th Cloudy cold weather. Ice running pretty thick in the River. The
Men
finished
assorting and baling up the meat. We have now in store 67 Bales. 84 lbs. net each, viz 36 of
lean, 19 Back Fat & 12 Inside Fat, or 3024 lbs. Lean Meat 1596 lbs. Back fats & 1008
lbs.
Inside fats, in all 5628 lbs. Some of the Indians moving a little further down the River. but as
some others are coming up in their place the number of lodges still keeps about 20. Those
Indians that remain here employ the most of their time gambling.

Thursday 29th Overcast, snowed thick the afterpart of the day. Ice running in
the river.

The River below will probably freeze over with this weather and prevent the Canoes from
getting up.

Friday 30th Overcast mild weather, some snow. Ice running in the river but
not so much as
yesterday. Nothing doing in the way of trade except a chance appichiman, (parrefliches) etc.
The Indians occupy the greater part of their time gambling, even where it is snowing they are
playing out of doors and a group sitting about the parties engaged watching the progress of the
game.

Saturday 31st Snowed thick in the night and the forepart of the day. The snow
lies nearly 6
inches thick on the ground. Very little ice running in the River. The men who were sent off to
Spokane on the 22nd arrived in the evening with letters from Mr. Dease and
1/2 Roll of
Tobacco & 1/2 gross of awls. The men had to leave the canoes
yesterday below the Chutes
as the Navigation was stopped by ice. They have made a very expeditious voyage.-

Mr. Dease in one of his letters expresses a wish that Mr. Kittson or I would pay him a
visit.-Nothing material has occurred at Spokane since we heard from it last.

Jan. 1826. Sunday 1 - Stormy with heavy rain the greater part of the day, the snow has
nearly
all
disappeared. This being the first day of the new year, according to custom, each of the men
got an extra ration of 6 lb. fresh venison, 2 lbs. back fat. 1 Buffalo tongue, 1 pint of Flour and 1
pint of Rum.-At daylight they ushered in the new year with a volley of musketry when they were
treated with 4 glasses each of Rum cakes & a pipe of Tobacco. With this and the pint given
to each of them, they soon contrived to get nearly all pretty drunk. They appeared to pass the
day comfortably enjoying themselves.

An Indian brought us a female (Chiveaux), Round, Skin and all.

Monday 2nd Wind N.W. and stormy during the night and all day, but not
cold,
the snow has all
disappeared except on the mountains. No ice driving in the River. The men doing little today.
The Indians women were sent off to gather gum to repair one of the canoes to make another
trip below if the weather continues favorable.-

Tuesday 3 rd Blew a perfect storm in the night, but calm overcast mild soft
weather during the
day.

Had part of the men repairing and gumming a canoe & making paddles, the others
packing up
Appechimons, dressed leather, Robes, Saddles & making in all 18 pieces or about 2/3 a
canoe
load, which is all in readiness to start tomorrow for the Coeur de Alene portage. I intend going
myself, with 6 men, to proceed to Spokane. I expect we will reach the portage before the River
freezes but we will probably have to walk back. I am induced to take this trip in consequence of
Mr. Dease expressing a wish that either Mr. Kittson or I would visit him.-Mr. Kittson remains in
charge of the place.-

Wed. 4 th Some frost in the night. Cloudy fine weather during the day. Left
F.
Head haven 20
Minutes before 8 oclock in a canoe with 8 Men, Iroquoys, reached the Chutes (122)
20 minutes
past 10, Making the portage. which is 1380 yds. long, took more than 2 hours.-At 2 oclock we
reached the canoes the men left a few days ago and encamped to change our canoe for a
better one, the men were employed till it was dark gumming the canoes we are going to take.
The canoe though not deep laden is a good deal lumbered. the saddles & appechimons take
up
a good deal of room. There is not much snow, a little ice along the edge of the River & on
the
banks. The ice that stopped the men going up is all gone.

Two parrefliches & a little meat which the men left in cache is stolen by the Indians.

Thursday 5 th Overcast soft weather. Proceeded on our journey at
1/2 past 6
oclock, reached
Stony island portage at 10 & 1/2 past 10 got across it, the canoe
taken down by water, by
one
oclock we reached the Heron Rapid, (123)
the portage here also occupied half an hour, the canoe
& part of the baggage got down by water. At 1/2 past 3
encamped near the Lake. A good
days
work. The snow is deep at the portage we passed, and also where we are encamped but it is
soft and thawing.-It is difficult making the portage as the track is through rough stones &
the
hollows being filled up with the snow, the men with the loads tumble into the holes before they
are aware.

Friday 6 th Stormy weather with heavy rain, rained hard in the night.
Embarked at day light and
in an hour reached the Lake (124)
where we encamped and had to remain all day it being it being
too rough to attempt crossing it.

Saturday 7 Stormy with rain in the night. Moderate mild weather with some rain during the
clay.

Embarked at 8 oclock and reached the portage (125)
at 3 in the afternoon when the goods were
laid up & covered, but it being too late deferred starting for the Fort till tomorrow. Killed a
small
deer crossing the River.

Sunday 8 Soft weather with disagreeable sleet & snow showers. Set out an hour
before
day
light with 4 men to cross the portage on foot for the Fort and encamped at sun setting at the
little River (126)
at the edge of the plains after a hard days walking. Two of the mens feet got sore
and I sent them back from Rat Lake. (127)
Part of the road in the middle of the woods the snow is
deep & ? with the thaw but not sufficiently hard to bear ones weight, and walking through it
is
very fatiguing on the other parts of the road there is little snow.-Met two Indians in the afternoon
& got a horse from them but having no saddle & he being very poor it was a most
fatiguing job
to ride any distance. We rode turn about.

Monday 9 th Soft weather Snow showers. Resumed our journey before 3
oclock in the morning
and reached Spokane (128)
at 1 in the afternoon, and received a cordial reception from Mr. Dease
who with his people were found well. There is little snow on the ground during this day's march.

Tuesday 10 th Snowed thick the forepart of the day but soft weather &
rain
in the evening so
that the most of the snow had disappeared by night.-

Friday 13. Sharp frost in the night but cloudy mild weather during the day. Have made
preparation to return to F. Heads tomorrow.-

Sat. 14 th Snowing and raining all day. Having every thing ready left
Spokane
at 10 oclock for
the F. Heads accompanied by my own two men, & La Bonte & an Indian with 9 horses
for the
baggage that I left at the other end of the Portage. On account of the very bad weather and
having to go round by the Chutes (129)
where we were detained some time in the plains catching
two of the Inds horses, we only reached the Fountain (130)
in the plain where we encamped for
the night. Every one of us completely drenched to the skin.-There is very little snow on the
plains.

Sunday 15 th Overcast mild weather some light snow & rain showers.
Some of the horses
strayed off in the night, & it was 8 oclock before they were all collected, when we
proceeded on
our journey and only reached the W end of Rat Lake. The snow in the woods takes the horses
up over their knees so that they were able to make very little way through it. Where we are
encamped, the poor horses can eat but very little. Saw the tracks of several deer and some
martens.

Monday 16 th Overcast mild foggy weather. Three of the horses strayed off
in
the night owing to
the Indian having neglected to hobble them. I sent a man & the Indian after them, while I
with
the other men & horses proceeded to the portage (131)
where we arrived before noon, the man
and Indian with the other horses did not arrive till sun setting. Had all the pieces arranged
&
ready to send off the horses in the morning & at the same time set out myself with the
canoe.
The snow is not so deep at this end of the portage as yesterday.

Tuesday 17 th Except a short Interval in the afternoon, rained without
intermission all day and
blowing fresh part of the day. Had the horses collected at day light and the man and Indian
commenced loading them. At the same time I embarked & we proceeded up the River, and
encamped a little above the lake, a good days march considering the very bad weather. Very
little more wind would have prevented us from crossing the Lake. The snow has in several
places disappeared but on the hills and along the shores it is still thick.

Wed. 18 th Overcast fair mild weather. Proceeded on our journey at daylight
and encamped late
above the Stony Island Portage. (132)
The snow along the shore and particularly at the portages,
was very deep.-

Thursday 19 th Weather as yesterday but colder. Continued our rout at an
early
hour, and
encamped below the Chutes in the evening. About noon we passed the Crooked rapid after
which there was very little snow to be seen. Found some Indians at the Barrier River (133)
&
traded some Venison from them which made us a good supper.

Friday 20 th Snowing and raining all day, very disagreeable weather.
Embarked
before sunrising
and reached the F. Head House near dark. We were delayed some time at the Chutes
gumming the canoes. Found Mr. Kittson and the people all well. Nothing material has occurred
since I went off. Little done in the way of trade except of fresh provisions, some Inds. from
above arrived with 14 deer which has served the people & saved dry provisions for some
time
back on account of the mild soft weather it is difficult to keep it from spoiling. The men have
been employed getting wood for a canoe, milking troughs to (beat) meat & make pimmican,
cutting cords & putting an upper flooring in the house, etc.-

Sat. 21 st Cloudy fine pleasant weather, thawing. An Indian brought the
carcass
of a deer.

Sunday 22 nd Mild pleasant weather.

Monday 23 rd Cloudy cold weather sharp frost in the night. Six men with
some
horses were sent
off for canoe timber with which they returned in the evening. The road was very bad as they
had to ascend the mountains.-It is difficult to procure wood for canoes here now.

Tuesday 24 th Overcast soft weather. C. McKay and six men were sent up
the
river in a canoe
to an Indian camp in expectation that they will be able to trade some fresh provisions. It is
supposed they will be two days reaching the camp. (134)
If we be able to procure some venison it
will save the dry provisions.-

The Old freeman Paget and a man Pierre, were sent down to Thompson's Plain with the
horses
where the grass is better.

Thursday 26 th Weather as yesterday, some light snow. The men employed as
yesterday. Two
Kootany Indians arrived and traded Deer skins principally for ammunition.

Friday 27 th Disagreeable cold weather blowing fresh from the Northward.
The
men bent the
timbers for the canoe.

Sat. 28 th Soft weather some snow. Had the provisions examined, a little of it
was moldy, put 5
bales on the loft to dry to beat for pimican.

Sunday 29 th Raw cold overcast weather. C. McKay and the men who went
off
on Tuesday
returned. The River is so shallow above that they could not get the canoe to the Indians camp
but two men were sent. The Indians have had no provisions and the people were starving
when they got a little. Only about two animals are brought home. They brought home the skin
of a ram, horns and all, for stuffing.

Monday 30 th Snowed in the night and snowing thick the greater part of the
day.
Men differently
employed.

Tuesday 31. Snowing part of the day. but soft weather & thawing. There is now nearly
a foot
deep of snow. The men employed cutting and melting down tallow.

Wed. 1 Feb. 1826 Overcast soft weather. Some sleet and rain showers. Part of the men
employed cutting and melting Tallow, & part, pounding meat to make pimican.-

Thursday 2. Sharp frost in the night, and cloudy cold weather during the day. The men
employed as yesterday.

Friday 3. Frost in the night. Overcast soft weather thawing during the day. Blowing strong
in
the evening. The men employed as yesterday except those that were pounding the meat, who
are making a trough as the one already made is broken. Some Indians arrived from above &
traded the carcasses of 2 deer & the skin of a (bison). The meat is a seasonable supply as our
stock of fresh meat was nearly out.

Saturday 4. Some snow in the night but clear mild weather during the day.

Had the men employed melting down fat. Yesterday evening. I gave one of the men
Togonche, a boxing for making too free with my wife (135)
but being in a passion he got out of my
hands before he got enough & to avoid getting another which I promised him he ran off to
the
woods.

Sunday 5. Clear mild weather.

Monday 6 th Snowed hard in the night and snowing part of the day. Part of
the
men employed
pounding meat and part, dressing canoe timber.

Tuesday 7 th Stormy in the night with very heavy rain, rain & snow the
greater part of the day. Part of the men employed melting fat the others at the canoe timber.

T. Toganche came to the fort in the night and took away his things, and the other provisions,
the others deny that they knew of his going off or where he is gone too. I believe they are
telling lies.

Wed. 8 th Rain in the night & rain & snow during the day. The
men
employed as yesterday.
Nothing doing in the way of trade except a little gum.-

Thursday 9 th Rain & very stormy in the night, mild weather during the
day.-The snow is
disappearing very fast, there is no very little on the ground.

The men employed at the canoe, the wood is all dressed.

Monday 13 th Sharp frost in the night. Cloudy cold weather during the day.
Four men employed
at the canoe & two pounding meat. An Indian arrived from Spokane, with letters dated on
the
3rd Inst. Mr. Dease sends me orders to proceed to Spokane to make out the a/c & leave Mr.
Kittson in charge of this place. As I have a particular wish to see the years transactions of this
Post finished so that I might be able to make some observations on it, that perhaps might have
been useful, I certainly do not like the trip, and think Mr. Dease (136)
might have made more
Judicious arrangements, especially when It is only to make out the Accounts.

Tuesday 14 th Sharp frost in the night & very cold all day. The men
employed as yesterday,
finished pounding the meat and are now ready to make it into Pimican to take below to
Spokane.

Wed. 15 th Keen frost in the night, and cold freezing weather all day. The
river
driving full of ice,
which is an unusual thing at this season of the year. Two of the men employed repairing a
canoe to below to the Le Portage if the River keeps open. Five more men making Pimmican.
They made 14 bags 80 Is. each.

Five of the Au Platte Indians arrived late last night, & today traded 2 Otter, about 500
Rats, and
some dressed leather and (Parrefliches). (137)

Thursday. 16 Cold frosty weather but milder than yesterday. A good deal of ice driving in
the
River.

Two men employed repairing a canoe to go below.-The others at the Pimican, Made 6 more
bags & filled 2 bags of Tallow 90 lb. each.

A Flat Head Indian arrived for a little tobacco for his tribe who are now on their way coming
in,
but still far off. Several are daily arriving from different quarters principally from the Fd. H.
Lake and encamping about the fort, they bring nothing except a little dry Venison.-

Friday 17 Overcast freezing weather. Some ice still driving in the River & ice fast
along its
edges. The water is rising considerably some days past.

Three men employed repairing the canoe.-The others tying up the Pimican & making
packs of
cords, to go below & doing other jobs about the fort.-

The Flat Head Indian that arrived yesterday went off. He got a little Tobacco for each of the
principle men. He made us to understand that his tribe were still in pursuit of buffalo but would
soon come off for the fort. They were likely to have a good deal of provisions but he could not
say what success they had in the fur way. A band of 13 Kootanies principally Auplattes arrived
in the evening with some furs.-It was too late to trade.

Saturday 18 Cloudy mild weather, frost in the night. Ice still driving in the River.

Part of the men employed at the new canoe, and three finishing repairing the one they
were
at these two days past. It is now ready and I intended to start tomorrow for Spokane with a
load of provisions but the
people arriving from the horse guard (138)
informed me that part of the River there is frozen over
and of course, impassable. A piece of the River above the fort has also been fast some days.
In order to ascertain exactly the state of the River below so that we might be able to ascertain
whether a passage is practicable or when it is likely to be so, C. McKay & Canotte, who is a
good judge of the River, were dispatched to take a view of the water below at different places
from which they will be able to judge of the state of the River farther down, they are to be back
tomorrow, so that I must defer starting for another day. As Mr. Dease wants two men down
also by taking a canoe & cargo down at present is the only means by which they can be
spared.

The canoe is also the most expeditious mode of conveyance. We cannot attempt taking down
the horses as Mr. Dease suggests, without running the risk of making a very tedious journey
and perhaps losing some of the horses, on account of the great depth of the snow along parts
of the road.-The journey on foot must also be, tedious.-Performing the journey, in the canoe is
decidedly preferable, as it can be done much quicker, & the cargo can be taken down at
once &
probably, not more than three canoes will require to be taken down in the Spring. So that the
men wanted below can now be spared which they otherwise could not.

Sunday 19 th Cloudy mild weather. Some ice still driving in the River. C.
McKay & Conotte
returned & reported that the River is frozen in 4 places where, Portages will have to be
made,
not very long ones, & that only one place farther down is likely to be frozen at the Cobias. I
therefore have determined on starting tomorrow, it will require longer time but it is the only
means we now have of performing the journey. From all that we can learn there is too much
snow for the horses to be sent down with safety.

Monday 20 Left the Flat Heads early, in a canoe with 7 men & an Indian and 22 pieces
Pimican
& fat. 1 box candles & my baggage, besides provisions for the voyage, in all about 27
pieces.
A little below the Fort we were stopped by ice & had to make a portage at least 3/4 of a
mile,
after which we proceeded to the Chutes, made the Portage & a little farther down the River
was
again frozen over & we had to make another portage about the same length as the last, but
over a much worse road. The ice is too weak to carry upon it & it is difficult to get ashore
and a
bad road along shore. If we find obstructions of this kind tomorrow the canoe will probably have
to be sent back & I will have to proceed on foot, as it would occupy a long time to carry
over
some of the portages below.-Very disagreeable weather. Snow & sleet heavy in the evening
so
that it wets everything.

Proceeded down the river at an early hour & again soon found our road barred with
ice in two
places of considerable length, it was, however, so soft that we got our way broken through it
with a great deal of labor & damage to our canoe. We crossed the Stony island portage
&
encamped below it at a late hour. In the forepart of the day there (was) little snow along the
River but towards evening it was very deep. At our camp it is not less than three feet. In the
morning when I was away with the foreman examining the ice one of the men (Bonufont)
deserted and ran off with my old gun and Powder horn. The others said they thought I had sent
him for them, This man is almost out of his senses about our peril at the F. Heads which is
probably the cause of his running off-I had no idea that he ran off entirely or I certainly would
have pursued him with the people & caught him although it would be difficult to find him
as
there is little snow in the woods and we had no time to spare.-He will probably go no farther that
the fort where Mr. Kittson will stop him.

Wed. 22 Snow & rain the most of the day. We were detained some time in the morning
gumming the canoe after which we continued our route & encamped in the evening near the
lower end of Pendent Oreilles Lake. We just got across the lake in good time as it began to
blow immediately afterwards. We met no more obstructions from the ice, but in several places
it had very recently broke up.

Thursday 23 rd Very disagreeable cold weather, thick snow & sleet all
day. Embarked at an
early hour & reached the portage at noon, where we got the property all safely laid up
& the
canoe gummed for me to return with her tomorrow morning while I start with one man &
an
Indian to the fort & leave one man to take care of the property, till people & horses
come for it.-I
am afraid the horses will have a bad job of it as the snow here is very deep. The ice in different
parts of the river has not been long broke up. Passed two Indian camps and lodges and loaded
3 pr. of small snow shoes from them.-The badness of the weather prevented me from setting
out for the fort immediately.

Friday 24 th Overcast, Cloudy weather, snow showers. At daylight set out for
Spokane
accompanied by an Iroquoy & an Indian, and encamped at 4 oclock in the afternoon
between
the big hill and the Lake. The snow on the portage is generally from 3 to 4 feet deep and very
soft and on account of the smallness and badness of our snowshoes walking through it is very
fatiguing, when we encamped we were very tired, & had no water, however, by melting
snow on
a piece of bark at the fire we soon obtained a sufficiency.-We stopped early having only a small
axe to cut firewood.

I am afraid, there is so much snow, it will be a bad job getting the property across.

Saturday 25 Overcast, snow and sleet the greater part of the day. Proceeded on our route at
daylight and reached the plain at 11 oclock and encamped at sunsetting at Campment de
Bindash, with J. Finlay's (139)
sons who were hunting fortunately we fell in with them or we would
have had little fire during the night.

The snow continued the same depth to near the edge of the woods where it was not so deep.
There was not much snow on the plains and on the South end we walked without snowshoes.-

Sunday 26 Clear cold weather in the night and mild weather during the day.

Continued our journey at 3 oclock in the morning and arrived at Spokane at 11. Not much
snow
in the woods & it was so hard that we walked the most of the way without snowshoes. We
were
well tired. There were some horses on the opposite side of (Schuihoo) (140)
plain but we thought
it too far to go for them yesterday evening. Found Mr. Dease & his people all well.

Monday 27 Snowed in the night and the greater part of the day.

It being deemed impracticable to get the property across the portage at present on account of
the depth of the snow, without, the risk of losing some of the horses, Mr. Dease had determined
to let it remain some time fill the snow thaws.-But a man (Chilifaux) was sent off to give the man
who was left behind instructions & leave an Indian with him and at the same time to bring
home
some of my things, particularly the box containing the papers.-The Indians would not trust their
horses to cross the portage.-

Tuesday 28 Cloudy mild weather, some snow. A good deal of the snow that fell yesterday
thawed.

Keen frost in the night. Cloudy cold weather during the day. The Chiefs we spoke to about
horses to carry off part of the furs and property to the Forks, (142)
they engaged to furnish 80 horses.

Sunday 7 Clear fine weather but cold & the snow wasting very little.

Tuesday 7 th Cloudy cold weather keen frost in the night.

The men busy tying up the pieces & preparing to go off tomorrow. The Indians
collecting the
horses.-

Mr. Birnie with 3 men, 13 Indians and 80 loaded horses set out for the forks the first trip.
Mr. B.
is to remain in charge of the furs & property. Only 4 or 6 pieces of this is private property.

Tuesday 7 th In the evening Cholefaux arrived with my trunk & blankets
about 100 lb.-The other
things he left.-The snow on the Portage is now very deep, more so than when I passed it is now
not less than 4 feet. There is no knowing when horses may be able to pass through it.

The night before Cholefaux arrived at the other end of the Portage some Inds slept there
with
the man who was left in charge of the goods, & stole a small bag 25 lb. fine pimican.-

Wed 8 Cloudy cold weather, sharp frost in the night. Chalifaux was sent off to the Forks to
remain with Mr. Birnie.

Thursday 9 th Sharp frost in the night. Cold bleak weather during the
day.-The
snow wasting
very little to be this season of the year.-

Friday 10 Keen frost in the night. Raw cold weather. Snow in the afterpart of the day.

The men, employed with two Indians pressing the fur packs, but had to give it up on account
of
the snow.

The People above mentioned employed Pressing the furs which was finished in the evening
having done 36 packs in the day. In the evening an Indian with part of the horses that went off
to the Forks on Tuesday, arrived. The whole reached their destination safe, & the property
all
in good order, having had dry weather.

Sunday 12 Frost in the night, cloudy cold weather during day. All the rest of the horses
&
Indians & men returned from the Forks.

Monday 13 Keen frost in the night. The men employed tying up and arranging the pieces
for
the next trip. Busy all day paying the Indians for their horses for their last trip.

Tuesday 14 Frost in the night, light. cloudy, cold weather during the day.

The snow is disappearing about the Fort, but going off very slowly.

Wed 15 Cloudy cold weather. The men employed cutting firewood.

Thursday 16 Heavy rain in the night some time In the morning, which has diminished the
snow
considerably, the valley round the fort is nearly all bare except patches here and there but in the
woods and higher ground snow still lies pretty thick & is wasting very tardily. Mild, soft
foggy
weather, & the first spring like day we have had this season. The men employed cutting
firewood in the forepart of the day, afterwards arranging and separating the furs & property
to
be sent off to the forks on Saturday, in all 60 loads. The Indians were engaged to furnish sixty
horses on that day, for the trip.

Pere de Joile Fille was also engaged to cross the (Schuihoo) portage for the property that
remains there, he is to go as soon as the road is passable through the snow, which he expects
will be in two or three days.

Friday 17 Raw cold weather in the morning, mild afterwards. Had provisions &c., tied
up for
the party going off tomorrow. The Indians collecting their horses.-

Saturday 18 th Cloudy, snow & sleet the forepart of the day, snowed in
the
night. the snow in the
morning was nearly 2 inches deep, but it had nearly all disappeared during the day, on the low
ground, but on the high ground that faces the north, the snow still remains.

On account of the bad weather the departure of the horses with the property was deferred
until
tomorrow.

The water in the river has risen considerably, these few days past.

Sunday 19 Frost in the night & fine weather in the forepart of the day but disagreeable
weather
with rain and sleet afterwards.

Three men and ten Indians, with the Interpreter Rivit, (143)
were sent off to the Forks with 62
horses loaded with Furs, Provisions & Sundries. The after part of the day turned out very
unfavorable which was not expected in the morning as the weather was fine. There is very little
property of any kind now remaining. (144)
-The women and children also went off today.-

Monday 20 Overcast fair weather in the morning some light showers during the
day.

Tuesday 21 Rain and sleet in the night, but fair weather during the day. The River continues
much the same, the water is rising very little.

The Blacksmith & cook, the only two men we have now here, employed collecting all
the iron
about the place, stripping hinges off doors (145)
&c. The Indians much regret our going off.. and
frequently complain that they will be pitiful when the whites leave them.

The Indians are getting a few trout and suckers in their barrier, a part of which they give us.

Wed. 22 Light showers. The men employed as yesterday.

Thursday 23. Sleet & rain showers, rained hard in the night. The greater part of the
Men and
Indians that went to the Forks on Sunday last, returned. Not withstanding the bad weather their
property got down safe.

Friday 24 Showery weather and cold, notwithstanding the advanced season the snow still
lies
on the North side of the hills and banks. The rest of the people arrived from the Forks. Late last
night two Indians arrived from Coeur de Alan Portage with letters from Mr. Kittson dated F.
Head 9 th Inst. The trade was then completed and preparations making to start.
The provision
trade has been excellent but the returns in furs less than was expected.-War has broken out
between the F. Heads and (Piegans.)C McKay is at the other end of the Portage with the
horses that were at the F. Heads, he had a bad journey down on account of the depth of the
snow, the horses were five nights without eating. The snow on the portage is still near 3 feet
deep.-Mr. Kittson was to have proceeded to the Pendent Oreilles Bay but as it is supposed from
accounts that that portage is impassable with the depth of the snow, a man was sent off
immediately with letters to Mr. Kittson to stop him at the Coeur de Alan portage.-

Some people were sent off to fetch home our horses from the Coeur de Alan plain to be
ready
to start for the F. Head property. Le Course caulking his boats.-Paid off part of the Indians for
their trip to the Forks.-

Saturday 25 Raining the greater part of the day. The horses were brought to (Birnie's)
(146)
plains. of the Indians for their horses.

Sunday 26 th Rain in the night and the most of the day. The water in the
River
rising
considerably these few days.-Some snow still lies on the banks and hills that face the North.

Monday 27 Overcast weather. Martin arrived from Coeur 'de Alan Portage, in place of
Charles
who went off on the 23 rd who was so fatigued that he could not come back.
Martin can also
scarcely walk, though he came part of the way on horseback. Mr. Kittson had not arrived at the
Portage 2 days ago. By Indian report he had started from the F. Heads but was detained at
Thompsons plains, seeking after one of his men (Benifont) who had deserted. There is still a
great deal of snow on the Portage. Some places it is said to be 3 feet deep. The horses were
brought home. & the Indians engaged to furnish some more, to go off for the F. Head
property
tomorrow, as Mr. Kittson is expected to have arrived by the time they reach the Portage.
Tuesday 28 Overcast mild weather. Rivit, 2 men & some Indians went off to meet Mr.
Kittson with about 70 horses.

Wed. 29th. Fine weather, sharp frost in the night. Old Philip was sent off to the Forks to
send
home Chalifaux who is there.-

Friday 31 st Frost in the night, Overcast mild weather during the day. Not
withstanding the
weather is rather cold, Vegetation is making considerable progress. The ground about the fort
is getting quite green, and the bushes are putting forth their leaves and some small plants
flowering. The snow, nevertheless still keeps possession of the banks that Front the north.-The
River has risen considerably for some days past. The Indians are hungry as they have little to
depend upon but moss. They have for some time past got a good many trout from the Barrier
but last night it was broken by the height of the water, & they will not be able to repair it.

April 1826

Sat. 1 Heavy rain the greater part of the day. The men employed gumming the boats.

Sunday 2 Overcast mild, soft weather. Mr. Kittson arrived from the F. Heads. he left his
people
yesterday. One of the men (Bonenfant) who deserted from me on the 21 st Feb but
was
afterwards secured, ran off a second time, when Mr. Kittson sent two men in pursuit of him.
One of these Ignace (Astaryan), also stayed away & is supposed to have deserted also.
Bonenfant made his escape from an Indian lodge before the men got up. Three of the canoes
were broke, two of the them sunk, & though none of the property was lost a great deal of it
was
wet, & though pains were taken to dry it, it is feared from the witness of the weather that a
deal
of the meat will be much damaged.-

Monday 3 rd Overcast fair weather. C. McKay & Canotte arrived &
left Rivit and the Men this
morning. they are to stop the most of the day opening and airing the provisions.

Tuesday 4 Overcast, weather drizzling rain. The men employed tying up some things that
were
loose in the Store.

Wed. 5 Overcast fair weather. The people with horses loaded with Flat head returns arrived.
The men immediately employed opening and examining the provisions. A good deal of it is wet
& getting moldy. Some of the bales of leather were also wet, indeed scarcely anything in
the
canoes missed. Busy the after part of the day settling with the Indians for their horses.

Thursday 6 th Fine weather. Busy settling with the Indians & paid them
up for all their horse hire
& services for so far. Mr. Kittson & the men drying and packing up the meat.

Friday 7 th Fair weather. Had the Indians & Company's horses collected
and the property taken
to below the Forks, (147)
in the boat. the river being too high to cross it on the horses. At past
noon I set out with 59 loaded horses and encamped late at the Kettle encampment. (148)
Our loads are principally provisions, a few packs of furs & leather. All Indians but one
white
man
that are with the horses, they are very careful of the property.

Saturday 8 th Clear pleasant weather. It was some time in the morning before
the horses were
all collected after which they were all loaded and proceeded on the rout. Mr. Dease and Mr.
Kittson shortly come up with us. I accompanied them & we proceeded on ahead and
arrived at
the Forks in the evening. We had some difficulty crossing a small river (149)
that was swelled by
the snow melting in the mountains, the current was very strong & the water deep. My horse
was carried a considerable distance down the stream. I was completely wet up to the middle it
was with difficulty I kept his back as he was different times nearly upsetting by getting on
branches or trees.

Sunday 9 th Clear fine weather. The boats, three (150)
in number, which left Spokane yesterday
arrived at the Forks this evening, they loaded the cargoes above the little Dalles & the light
boats were
run down. La Courses boat struck a stone near the mouth of the Spokane river in a dangerous
rapid and was broken. She was very nearly upset, had she done so everyone on board would
have perished. Yesterday the boats fell in with the horses & transported all the property
past
the little river.

Monday 10 Cloudy weather, sun shining occasionally. The horses and property all arrived
at
the Forks safe in the morning where the loads were received. The Bales of meat were opened
to be aired. several of them were a little wet.-Busily employed in the afterpart of the day paying
off the Indians for the lend of their horses and their own labour coming to the Forks.-

Tuesday 11 Cloudy weather. The meat was again all opened & spread out to air. The
Express
arrived in the evening, Messrs. McLeod (151)
, Ermatinger & Douglas.-They brought 3 pigs & 3
young cows for Fort, Colvile. (152)

Thurs. 13.
Two boats sent off to Okanagan landed with furs.-And afterwards 20 of the Spokane horses
for
the same place to go on to Kamloops to meet the New Caledona people.-Rivit, Old Philip &
old
Paget & Pierre with a number of women and children & all the horses & the
young cows, were
sent off to Kettle falls. They have a quantity of seed potatoes with them & tools to
commence
farming immediately. (154)

Friday 14 th Nothing particular, all busy finishing the account.

Sunday 16. The Express for the Mountains. Mr. McLeod & Mr. Birnie, set off in the
evening.-One boat 8 men.

Monday 17 A cargo was prepared for a boat to Okanagan.

Tuesday 18 A boat loaded with Packs of furs, appichimons, leather &c. Messrs.
McDonald,
Ermatinger & myself passengers, Set out in the morning for Okanagan.-

Wed. 19 th Arrived at Okanagan in the morning with all safe. Met the man
that left the forks on
the 12th returning yesterday morning. They would reach the forks in the course of the day.-

I remain in charge of Okanagan till the Brigade goes down. Five men remain with me, two
of
whom are shortly to go off to Kamloops with horses to meet the N. Caledonia people, and two
of them are invalids.-

Thur. 1 st Cloudy fair weather. The men employed gumming the
boats.-Yesterday I gave up the
charge of the store &c. to Mr. F. Ermatinger (156)
who is to remain at this place during summer.-

Friday 2 nd Fair weather. Men employed as yesterday. Mr. Connolly (157)
arrived about 5 o'clock
in the evening. He left his people this morning, they are expected to arrive with the horses
tomorrow.

Sat 3 Cloudy, Showery weather. Mr. Connolly's people under the charge of Messrs.
Pambin
(158)
& Douglas (159)
arrived late in the evening, 60 loaded horses 85 packs furs & 6 Kegs
Castorum. They have been 25 days from Alexander 10 of which were from Kamloops to
Okanagan.

Sunday 4 th Cloudy mild weather. An Indian traded a salmon.

Monday 5 th Cloudy, Showery weather.

Tuesday 6 th Sultry warm weather, some showers. Mr. Connolly being very
anxious for the
arrival of Mr. Dease's people, and apprehensive that letters which he sent some time ago had
not reached their destination. An Indian and a man were dispatched with letters to Fort Colville.
About 1 oclock 2 boats & 11 men with Mr. Douglas (160)
& Kittson arrived from Ft. Colvile, with
some appichimons, cords, provisions, &c.-The sending off in the morning is unnecessary.
Everything made ready to start tomorrow.

Wed. 7 th Cloudy Sultry weather. Departed from Okanogan with 6 boats,
men
loaded with pack
furs & other baggage. (161)
All under the charge of Mr. Conolly, Messrs. J. Douglas, Pambin.,
Kittson, D. Douglas, & myself passengers. Started at 8 oclock & encamped to gum the
boats at
6 a little above Priests Rapid. Saw but few Indians on the River, traded some roasted
salmon.-The current is very strong & the water high.

Thursday 8 th Cloudy, showery weather. Continued our journey at 3 oclock
and arrived at Nez
Perces (162)
at 7 in the afternoon. A few Indians along the river. Traded 6 fresh salmon.-

Friday 9 th Cloudy weather, excessively warm in the middle of the day. In
consequence of the
rain yesterday evening, the boat and additional cargoes to be taken from Nez Perces could not
be arranged. Some time was, therefore, occupied doing that business this morning. Near noon
the boats all started 8 in number with 45 packs furs in addition to those brought from Ok: and
some other property. Messrs. D. Douglas & Kittson remained.-Our party now consists of 8
boats. 51 men, & 1. C. F. & 3 clerks.-We got on well during the day.-Shortly after
leaving Nez
Perces at Grand Rapid (163)
we met an Indian with dispatches from Ft. Vancouver dated 3rd
Inst., announcing the Arrival of the Ship. Encamped in the evening below J. Day's River. A
good many Indians along the river. Mr. Black gave the people a horse to eat.

Sat. 10 Cloudy fine weather, very warm though there was a little breeze of
wind. Proceeded on our journey at daylight. Passed the portage at the Chutes (164)
and to near
the lower end of the Dalles where we encamped to get the boats gummed.-The men had a hard
days labor carrying across the two portages.-There were about 100 Indians at the Chutes, &
from 200 to 300 at the Dalles. They are very peaceable. Traded salmon from them to serve
the people 2 days.-

Sunday 11 Cloudy, Blowing fresh part of the day. All hands were in motion at daylight,
and
after proceeding down a small channel & making a portage at its lower end, (165)
continued our
rout, but it blew so fresh that we had to put ashore before noon and could not proceed during
the day. The Indians were very quiet during the night, but before they could be all sent off from
the camp they made a hole in the sand under the edge of one of the boats & stole a capot
from
under one of the mens heads when he was sleeping. There was some trouble getting through
the rapids and whirlpools below the Dalles. Traded some more salmon.-

Monday 12 Continued blowing fresh all night and all day. Storming in the afternoon. It
being a
little moderate we embarked at daylight, but had proceeded only a few hours when the wind
reversed so that we had to put ashore & remain all day a little below Cape Heron. (166)
Some
Indians visited us from whom part of a sturgeon was purchased & some other little things.
A
canoe of Indians on their way from the fort below visited us. Two Indians who had solicited a
passage from the Dalles to Fort Vancouver returned in the afternoon. One of them had the
misfortune to lose his gun. It was lying in the oil cloth which being blown up by the wind tossed
the gun overboard.

Notes

112.
That is, the furs sent from the Snake river country where Peter Skene
Ogden's party had
been trapping during the winter and summer of 1825.

113.
The trading post known as Fort Kootenay had been located nearly
opposite the present
town of Jennings, Montana, but was not being maintained this year.

114.
This refers to attempt of Mr. Kittson to ascend the Kootenay river from
the Columbia in a
batteau , mentioned on pages 178-9 of this quarterly.

118.
Free trappers nominally their horses, guns, traps , and lodges, but were
usually in debt to
the Company for everything and obliged to turn in their furs to pay the indebtedness. The
regularly employed servants were called the engages.

119.
The same as the Coeur d' Alene portage mentioned in note 117, this being
Mr. Work's
spelling of "Skeetshoo," the name given by David Thompson to the Coeur d' Alene lake and
river Indians.

144.
Mr. Work and Mr. Dease remain until the arrival of Mr. Kittson with the
furs and provisions
from the Flathead trading post.

145.
This marks the end of Spokane House as a trading post. For glimpse of
this place in July,
1826, consult David Douglas' account in Oregon Hist. Quarterly, Vol. 5

146.
Evidently some prairie near the house, possibly the Five Mile Prairie of
present day.

147.
Meaning of the Forks of Spokane and Little Spokane rivers about
three-fourths mile below
the house, where the ford usually was. See map in Pacific Railway Reports, Volume 12.

148.
Uncertain but probably where the main trail Walla Walla to Kettle Falls
crosses the
Spokane river.

149.
One of several creeks entering Spokane river from the south. The road
from Spokane
House to the Forks evidently followed the south side of Spokane river very closely.

150.
The boats had been built at Spokane House during the winter; the Little
Dalles are the
gorge at Miles, Lincoln County, Wash.

151.
John McCleod, a chief trader, an his way to cross the Rocky Mts. Francis
Ermatinger, a
clerk, and Douglas, the botanist from England. For contemporaneous mention of this meeting,
consult pp. 334-5 of Vol. 5 of Oregon Hist. Quarterly, being Journal of David Douglas.

152.
This marks the beginning of the pork, beef, and dairy business in Steven's
county,
Washington, in particular, and all the Inland Empire in general.