At 6034m, Tocllaraju is a good option for climbers who want to challenge of making the summit of a 6000m peak. All the 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca are very physically demanding & semi-technical to technical climbs, but in good conditions Tocllaraju can be an achievable goal for strong climbers.

There are some sections of steep and technical climbing on Tocllaraju and previous climbing experience with fundamental climbing skills & confidence are required. Tocllaraju is not suitable for novice climbers.

Tocllaraju can be climbed in 4 days, but it is necessary to already be well acclimatised and it is advisable to gain important acclimatisation first by climbing the easier non technical Ishinca.

Donkeys carry equipment to Base Camp. Porters carry tents, food, climbing rope up to Morena Camp on Tocllaraju and return, but you need to carry your own personal gear.

Elizabeth & Peter Schmid Agency with 9 people from Switzerland/ Huayhuash Trek and Climbing Pisco & Tocllaraju: This is the second time we have trekked and climbed with Peruvian Andes Adventures. No Comments !!!!! Just SUPER!!!!

The 6 day itinerary with Ishinca + Tocllaraju is:

Day 1: Drive 1½ hours from Huaraz to the village of either Pashpa or Collon (3400m). We then walk up the valley Quebrada Ishinca on a gently rising path to our camp at the head of the valley. 4 to 5 hours

Day 2: Climb Ishinca. A steady climb initially on a good path and then on loose rock and large moraine rock until we reach the ice. The climb is usually not very steep apart from the final 20 metres to the summit. In some years depending on the condition of the glacier there can be some short steep sections or hard ice. Return the same way to Base Camp. 9 to 12 hours depending on fitness.

Climbing Ishinca

Day 3: Optional Rest day between the two climbs. Recommended but can be deleted to make a 5 day trip.

Day 4: Climb up through moraine rock to Tocllaraju Morena Camp (5300m). It is necessary to carry all equipment. 3 to 4 hours.

Day 5: Depart early to climb to the summit. The route is mixed with nice gentle snow slopes, some large crevasses & snow bridges which need to be negotiated, and some steep & exposed ridges up to 70 degrees. There is an approximately 65m bergschrund to climb below the summit which is quite exposed and the guide may fix a rope. Return back to Base Camp. 12 to 14 hours for the day.

On Tocllaraju

Day 6: Walk down the Ishinca Valley to Pashpa and return to Huaraz.

For 5 days Ishinca + Tocllaraju, delete the rest day.
For Tocllaraju only – 4 days.

If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private climb or would be happy to join with other people.