Chateau Cantenac Brown 1988
Good mature Claret nose, nice fruit, if tending slightly to burnt or at least cooked - in some ways more suggestive of 1990. Good wine, for drinking over the next few years.

Chablis 1er cru Butteaux 1995 (Raveneau)
Extra complexity and breadth here. Still dry and mineral, not quite as penetrating as the Duplessis, but perhaps you can not be wth the extra complexity. Lovely. Top almost more.

Mazis Chambertin 1989 (Maume)
Quite large-framed - almost Rhone-like. Dense, with that metallic edge that good Burgundy sometimes has. A bit awkward right now, but probably going in the right direction. Top

Vieux Chateau Certan 1978
Very fine, touch of capsicum on the leafy fruit - a reminder of the difficulties of the vintage perhaps. Mineral with that core of iron this property has. Very good indeed. Top

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1979
Nice nose, slightly chocolatey fruit, that is perhaps failing just a bit. A good drink, but one can see through it. Bare

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1984
Stronger, more rounded fruit - altogether better wine. We tasted this and the last wine not knowing which was which and all got it wrong. But perhaps a slightly unripe streak running through this wine could have been the giveaway.

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1981
Of the three, this one is the complete and satisfactory wine although I don't think it is a great 81. Certainly it is in good condition and perhaps I just don't much like Mouton - it always seems to me the least interesting of the first growths by a way. Top

Meursault Les Tillets 2004 (Roulot)
Very fine fruit, pears predominate, and there's great underlying minerality. Tight at the moment and a little hard. I will not open another bottle for a while. Possibly even scrapes

Champagne 1998 (Coutier)
Good fruit, with some meat from Pinot. The elegance and feeling suggest a fair amount of Chardonnay to me but Juhlin says this wine is more often pure Pinot. It has that forward, large-framed charm of the 98's generally. Very good. Bare