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Denon has changed their model naming nomenclature, and the new "E Series" models have effectively replaced the lower level (non CI) models from the Denon consumer level receiver lineup. The E-Series features 2-year warranties, with all but the basic E-200 model including Audyssey MultEQ calibration and an ethernet port for network access. The "X Series" replaced the higher level (CI) models in Denon's receiver lineup; all of these models feature a 3-year warranty, with more advanced Audyssey calibration (XT in the first three models, and XT32 in the X4000) and expanding featuresets for more flexible custom integration and multizone functionality.

The AVR-X1000 replaces the AVR-1713 as the lower price point, 5.1 receiver with MultEQ XT, then the X2000, X3000, and X4000 models replace the 2113CI, 2313CI, and 3313CI, respectively.

So what's new in these models compared to the xx13 lineup?

Every year the new models are released, the inevitable question comes up as to whether it's better to buy the preceding model at close-out discount pricing, or to jump on the new model for some exciting new must-have feature. So what's new in the E/X Series lineup compared to the xx13 models? Overall, the changes are subtle, and for the lower level models it may still be a better deal to buy last year's model at a good price. The farther up the line you go, however, the more dramatic the improvements get.

New and/or notable features and changes for all E/X Series models (note that "all" often excludes the E200 which doesn't really count):

* A "Video Select" function, accessed via the OPTION button on the remote, allows you to listen to a USB/Tuner/Network audio source while watching a separate video source (including HDMI inputs!)

* ALL inputs can be assigned, including basic RCA analog for the first time (excludes E200)

* All multizone equipped models (E400 and X Series) get the ALL ZONE STEREO feature that debuted on the 4520CI. This is a "party mode" zone feature which broadcasts the same audio to all zones, and importantly works with ANY input source (digital or analog). So as long as you are OK with the same source playing in both zones, ALL multizone models can now play ANY digital signal to Zone 2!
--- Note that engaging ALL ZONE STEREO will result in a stereo downmix for Main Zone.
--- To use All Zone Stereo, first power on Zone 2, hit the OPTION button on the remote, then select ALL ZONE STEREO from the on-screen menu.
--- Main Zone will lock onto MultiCh Stereo mode, and Zone 2 will switch to whatever source is playing in Main Zone.

* HDMI Standby Passthrough, as before, is included on all models (including the base level E200 model) but with some tweaks:
--- The feature is now disconnected from HDMI Control, so you can leave CEC off while still using it
--- Passthrough defaults to "ON" with Standby Source defaulting to "CBL/SAT" input

* All models have a full color GUI which can overlay on top of video sources (available on the HDMI output only) including 3D signals
--- Note that the E200 cannot overlay GUI on 3D signals
--- Note that the E400, X2000, X3000 and X4000 can also overlay GUI on 4k signals

* 4k scaling / passthrough support on all models except for E200, E300, and X1000

* AM radio tuner returns to all models after a one-year absence

* The INFO button on the remote now calls up a rich display of information including input/output speaker channels:

* New color-coded, horizontally arrayed speaker terminal layout and new binding post design:
--- A new spring-loaded "east connect" binding post design for bare wire connection on the E300/E400 -- but they do NOT accept banana plugs!
--- The X Series models use a traditional binding post but now allows for a "12 o'clock" speaker wire insertion orientation for bare wire
--- The E200 has basic spring clips for all speaker connections

Easy Connect Speaker Terminals

Wait, so what's that "more dramatic" improvement stuff you are talking about the further you go up??

Still working my way through the manuals currently, but the most obvious change is a major step forward in Multizone functionality. So here's some additional changes, moving progressively upward through the X Series:

* All X Series models allow variable volume control of the Zone 2 pre-outs; previously, the 1713 and 2113CI only allowed fixed volume output via the pre-outs.

* The X3000 makes two major multizone advances over the 2313CI:
--- (1) The 2nd HDMI output is now an independent Zone 2 HDMI matrix output
--- (2) ALL digital signals (2.0 PCM only, but from HDMI or S/PDIF) can be played to Zone 2 speaker output

* The X3000 also adds DTS Neo:X as an alternative to Audyssey DSX for adding height/width channels instead of surr.back for 7ch configurations.

* The X4000 includes the new digital multizone goodies of the X3000, and then makes a monster splash by bringing some impressive "trickle down" features from the flagship 4520CI model:
--- (1) Audyssey MultEQ XT32 and SubEQ HT
--- (2) Audyssey LFC (low frequency containment)
--- (3) Although the X4000 is a 7ch receiver, it can now expand to 9ch with the addition of at least 2 channels of external amplification

When you factor in state-of-the-art XT32/SubEQ calibration, 9ch expansion capability, DTS Neo:X and Audyssey DSX, full digital multizone capability, HDMI zone matrix output, and Audyssey LFC, it's clear that Denon has positioned the X4000 to be a major player this year, taking direct aim at the Onkyo 818 and upping the ante in several key areas.

Wow, the X4000 sounds amazing! Is there any reason to fork over the extra coin for the 4520CI now??

While the X4000 appears to be a "baby 4520" with most of the important features, there are still some things the 4520 has that may entice people to step up to the flagship model:

1. The 4520 is larger and heavier, with a superior amp section rated to drive 4-ohm speakers.
2. The 4520 has better build quality; it's built in Japan (not China) and has higher quality speaker binding posts for example
3. The 4520 has 9 amps built in, and can expand to 11 channels (instead of 7/9 on the X4000)
4. The 4520 has 4 zones instead of 3; the HDMI Zone output is dedicated to Zone 4, leaving Zones 2/3 independent. On the X4000, the HDMI Zone output shares Zone 2.
5. The 4520 can output component video to Zones 2 and 3, meaning it's possible to distribute HD video to all 4 zones.
6. The 4520 has full 32-bit processing architecture, including 32-bit DAC's and AL32 processing (vs. the 24-bit analogues on the X4000).
7. The 4520 has more legacy (analog) input/output connectivity, including 7.1 multichannel analog inputs, and an extra component video input and output.
8. The 4520 has a built-in 4-port ethernet hub
9. The 4520 has an incredibly flexible Amp Assign configuration, including a "Custom" free assign mode which allows any reassignment of 6 out of the 9 amps. The X4000 has the standard Amp Assign template where only 2 out of the 7 amps are reassignable according to predetermined options.

That said, for most users, the X4000 will be a smarter choice and is really an amazing value, especially considering the critical additions of XT32/SubEQ calibration and the digital multizone options.

The lower level "E Series" models feature basic Audyssey MultEQ calibration and offer 2-year warranties. The E200 should be skipped for any serious home theater setup, as it lacks MultEQ, networking, and has lower build quality.

AVR-1513 >> AVR-E200 ($249 msrp)

This is the basic, stripped-down 5.1 model with no Audyssey or auto-calibration of any kind, no networking, spring clips instead of binding posts, etc. Most readers of this forum should skip this model completely.

This is the entry-level 5.1 model that should be the lowest model considered for any serious home theater application. It adds Audyssey MultEQ calibration, along with Dynamic EQ + Volume, and network features such as smartphone app control, music streaming (AirPlay, Pandora, Spotify, SiriusXM, Internet Radio). Official Batpig Advice: Unless you find a ridiculous deal on the 1613, get the X1000 instead!! Same receiver but an extra year of warranty, Zone 2 pre-outs, and MultEQ XT for superior audio fidelity.

The E400 replaces the 1913 as the entry-level 7.1 model. Like the E300 it includes networking and Audyssey MultEQ calibration, but ups the HDMI input count to 6 total (5 rear / 1 front), adds more legacy connectivity, and Zone 2 functionality. It also adds two extra channels of amplification that can expand your system to 7.1 channels, using either front heights or surround backs, or add two speakers for an independent stereo audio Zone 2. Official Batpig Advice: For most folks looking for the best value 7ch model, it will be a no-brainer to go with the X2000 over the E400 as long as the street price difference is less than 100 bucks. The jump from regular MultEQ to XT, plus the third year of warranty, are alone worth the price difference. You also get enhanced multizone flexibility and some additional "custom integration" options with RS-232 serial port and remote IR jacks.

The "X Series" lineup replaces what was formerly known as the "CI" model lineup. These are distinguished from the lower level "consumer" models with more advanced features making them more suited to custom install setups (the original meaning of the former "CI" designation). In addition to features like RS-232 serial control, more flexible multizone options, and 12v triggers, all of the X Series models utilize more advanced versions of Audyssey MultEQ calibration -- the "XT" version for the X1000, X2000, and X3000, and the most advanced XT32 calibration on the X4000. Additionally, all of the X Series models feature a 3-year manufacturer warranty instead of just 2 years on the E Series... and of course detachable power cords (woot!).

AVR-1713 >> AVR-X1000 ($449 msrp)

The X1000 is the "entry level" 5.1 model in the X Series INCommand lineup. It is essentially a "souped up" X Series version of the E300. While it is only a 5.1 channel receiver, it differs from the E Series models by offering the more advanced XT version of Audyssey MultEQ calibration, a 3rd year of warranty, and pre-outs for expanding to a second zone (with the addition of an external amp). While it doesn't have analog>digital video conversion or scaling, it should provide excellent sound quality and plenty of HDMI inputs. If you are interested in maximizing sound quality on a budget, and are only running a 5ch setup with a few HDMI sources, this is the receiver for you.

* 5 channels of amplification rated at 80 watts/ch into 8 ohms
* 3-year warranty instead of only 2 on the E Series
* One more rear HDMI input, for a total of 6 (5 rear / 1 front)
* Remote IR Input port for connecting an IR repeater
* Regular speaker binding posts instead of the bare-wire-only "easy connect" speaker posts on the E Series
* Audyssey MultEQ XT calibration instead of regular MultEQ
* Zone 2 functionality via RCA pre-outs
--- Requires the addition of an external amp to power Zone 2 speakers
--- Unlike the 1713 it replaces, Zone 2 pre-outs support variable volume control in addition to fixed volume output
--- All Zone Stereo feature will play any digital source in both zones simultaneously

AVR-2113CI >> AVR-X2000 ($649 msrp)

The X2000 is basically the X Series version of the E400 -- the lowest level model in the X Series with full 7ch capability. Official Batpig Advice: For most folks looking for the best value 7ch model, it will be a no-brainer to go with the X2000 over the E400 as long as the street price difference is less than 100 bucks. The jump from regular MultEQ to XT, plus the third year of warranty, are alone worth the price difference. You also get enhanced multizone flexibility and some additional "custom integration" options with RS-232 serial port and remote IR jacks.

* One more rear HDMI input, for a total of 7 (6 rear / 1 front)
* MultEQ XT instead of regular MultEQ
* 3 years of warranty instead of 2 years
* Zone 2 pre-outs (so you can still run 7 channels in main zone and power Zone 2 with an external amp)
* Regular speaker binding posts instead of the bare-wire-only "easy connect" speaker posts on the E Series
* RS-232 serial port and Remote IR In/Out jacks for custom integration flexibility

AVR-2313CI >> AVR-X3000 ($899 msrp)

The X3000 replaces the 2313CI as the first step-up model to the "mid level" Denon receivers. The X3000 and its big brother the X4000 are built on a physically larger chassis than the lower level models, with upgraded amp section and power supply. The X3000 is 2 inches deeper than the X2000, and about 3 lbs heavier. Additionally, it features greatly expanded legacy connectivity options, and starts incorporating some of the higher end features of the X4000 (and 4520CI) like independent matrix HDMI output for another zone, Audyssey DSX, direct DSD support for SACD, etc. Official Batpig Advice: For most folks looking to step up from the X2000, it is probably worth it to jump all the way to the X4000 for the superior Audyssey MultEQ XT32 calibration and other upgraded features.

The X4000 is the king of the new Denon lineup, and Denon has really hit a home run with this product and its "everything and the kitchen sink" list of features. Most importantly, for the first time, Denon has let the state-of-the-art Audyssey MultEQ XT32 calibration trickle down below the 4xxx level models, including the SubEQ HT feature for improved dual sub calibration. Additionally, the X4000 takes another step forward from its 33xx model heritage by allowing expansion to a 9 channel system with the addition of external amplification. Plus it adds a 3rd zone, another HDMI output, additional legacy connectivity.... basically, other than the ability to run a complete 11 channel DSX/Neo:X setup, it has it all!

If this is your first visit to this thread, and you want to ask a question about one of the 2013 Denon AVR models, either one that you own or one that you are thinking of buying, please provide the following information to allow for better responses to your questions:

(a) Identify the model number in question (eg. E400), as there are 7 different models (E and X series) discussed in this thread. Also if you have not posted in several days since your initial post, please post the model # again so we don't have to back track to learn which model you are referencing.

(b) Identify what you've done so far to troubleshoot the issue and what the front panel is displaying if an audio issue, (also take a few minutes to review the Troubleshooting section provided at the bottom of this post to see if your question is answered there),

(c) Unless you indicate what settings have been changed, the assumption will be that all settings are on the factory defaults (ie. usually "Auto"),

(d) If the advice given seems to simplistic or obvious, don't shoot the advice giver as we have no idea of the level of your technical understanding,

(e) If there is no response to your post, it either means no one knows the answer or it has simply been overlooked so repost if you still haven't resolved your issue,

(f) If you post a question in this thread and are given advice and either it or some other advice (eg. Denon phone support, Denon "Ask a Question" email support) resolves your issue, have the common courtesy to post back what solution resolved your issue so others can learn from it as well,

(g) If the issue is not user error or not just a misunderstanding on how the AVR works, please call Denon support so the issue is registered,

(h) When responding to another post that is providing assistance to you, please press the "Quote" button in the lower right corner of that other poster's response so that response is also listed with your new post, and,

(i) If you don't live in either the USA or Canada, please either indicate your country location in your profile or your post as some Denon models from other regions in the world differ in configuration from their USA/Canada counterparts (eg. European 2313 has 7.2 pre-outs) otherwise responses made will be regarding the USA/Canada model.

2012 and 2013 Denon AVR FAQ, Setup, and Troubleshooting Guide

This guide provides general information on the following Denon AVR models:

however, some areas may apply to previous model years as well (esp. Troubleshooting).

Some of the new features of the 2013 models include:

1. Return of AM tuner to all models (so all models have AM/FM tuners).
2. Easier to use color coded speaker clips (E200) / speaker posts (E300 and higher) - note that although the new posts on the E300 and E400 will not be able to accept banana plugs, they should be much easier to use bare speaker wire than the speaker posts on previous year's models. The "X" series model speaker posts will accept banana plugs.
3. Return of HDMI input assignment and addition of analog audio input assignment for first time (E300 and higher).
4. Listen to USB/Tuner/Network audio source while watching separate video source (to include HDMI for first time) (E300 and higher).
5. Listen to external audio source connected to analog CD input (E400/X2000/X3000/X4000) while watching a video source not otherwise assigned to CD input (X4000 also adds capability of listening to Phono input as well while watching a video source).
6. New "HDMI Pass Through" setting which acts separately from the HDMI Control setting and factory defaults to ON with the "Pass Through Source" setting defaulting to CBL/SAT, such that right out of the box the CBL/SAT box should pass audio/video through to the TV when the AVR is in Standby without making any further setting changes.
7. IP CONTROL setting defaults to ALWAYS ON such that once the networking model is connected to your home's Wifi router/modem and working correctly, you should be able to control the AVR from your smart phone app without making any further settings changes (E300 and higher).
8. Network Diagnostics feature added (E300 and higher).
9. "All Zone Stereo" feature to pass the same HDMI, optical, or digital coax audio source playing in the main zone to Zone 2 while downmixing main zone audio to stereo (E400 and all X series).
10. Independent HDMI/optical/digital coax PCM 2.0 to Zone 2 speaker posts or pre-outs (X3000/X4000) and independent optical/digital coax PCM 2.0 to Zone 3 (X4000) speaker posts or pre-outs.
11. Audyssey MultEQ XT32 drops down to the X4000 (formerly only on the 4XXX models) along with Sub EQ HT for dual sub level and delay setting with the capability to expand the X4000 to 9.2 via an external amp.

a. Audyssey Mic Not Included: If you think Denon forgot to ship the Audyssey mic with your new AVR ... check again. The mic is located inside a small white box that may be embedded inside the styrofoam packaging itself so check all around the styrofoam.

2012 (1613 and higher)/2013 (E300 and higher): These models ship with the Audyssey ACM1HB mic which is interchangeable with the Audyssey DM-A409 (2008-2011 Denon models) and Audyssey ACM1H (Onkyo/Marantz) mics.

If the mic is indeed missing, you cannot use just any mic from another brand (other than Onkyo or Marantz) as the DM-A409/ACM1H/ACM1HB mics have been calibrated to work with the Denon AVRs. Contact Denon for a replacement or you can usually find one on eBay for about $25 (although don't purchase one from outside the USA as they may be knockoffs).

b. Audyssey Setup: The Setup Wizard and Speakers - Audyssey Setup can be run at any time. Just because you only have the front main (FL/C/FR) speakers or even just a set of 2.0 stereo setup is no reason not to run Audyssey Setup. If you add more speakers, simply run it again. You'll also want to rerun it if you move the speakers or any furniture in the room. Regardless of how many actual seats are in your listening room and where they are physically located, ideally you will want to run all 6 (MultEQ) or 8 (MultEQ XT/XT32) positions using a camera tripod or (boom mic stand + mic adapter) within no more than a 2'-3' radius around the #1 mic position (ie. main listening position (MLP)) in order to provide the most data points for the Audyssey filters. Note that on the 1713/2113CI/2313CI/3313CI models, although Audyssey MultEQ XT can measure up to 8 mic positions, Denon has reduced this number to only 6 mic positions when running the Setup Wizard to shorten the setup time (this is no longer the case with the new 2013 "X" series models as you can run all 8 mic positions using the Setup Wizard). On the XX13 models, in order to get all 8 mic positions (recommended), you will have to run Audyssey from the Speakers - Audyssey Setup menu. One of the reasons you likely bought a Denon AVR was for Audyssey, so take advantage of its capability by providing it with as much data as possible. The whole process shouldn't take more than 20 minutes, although ensure it is completely quiet in the room (ie. no pets or kids running around, no A/C noises, no PJ noise). Also, the test tones can be quite loud (75db), so best not to do this at night (especially if living in an apartment).

The Audyssey mic cable length is 25'. If you have the AVR located in a closet or some distance from the main zone, you can buy a 25' extension cable like this one; however, 50' from the AVR to the mic is the maximum length that Audyssey recommends.

Prior to running Audyssey Setup, you'll ideally want to have your front main speakers toed in towards the main listening position, the center speaker angled up/down (as appropriate) to aim towards the main listening position (ear height) and if using front height speakers, aimed down towards the main listening position.

It doesn't matter what settings you have set prior to running Audyssey Setup as they will be ignored and any previous Audyssey settings will be written over each time Audyssey Setup is run. Simply follow the directions listed in the SETUP WIZARD or follow along in the Denon Owner's manual. Also note that some speakers are intentionally wired "out of phase" by the mfr so if you get a PHASE error and have confirmed the speaker is wired correctly (i.e. +/+ and -/-) then simply press SKIP and move on to the next speaker. Initially just run 1 mic position with the sub volume/gain knob set to 12 o'clock (middle volume) and check to see what the Denon set the sub volume to ... if it's -12db (ie. this means the sub is too loud and the Denon has reached the maximum limit of -12db in attempting to lower it to the 75db calibration volume), you'll want to lower the volume knob on the sub a few notches (eg. to 10 o'clock) and run Audyssey Setup again for just 1 position. As long as it's < -10db (eg. -9db, -8db, -7db, etc.) you're good to go to complete the remaining 5 (MultEQ) or 7 (MultEQ XT/XT32) positions. There is no reason to get it as close to 0db as possible (unless the sub signal is not causing the sub to turn ON and in that case, get the trim closer to 0db so the AVR sends a stronger signal to the sub) as doing so simply allows more room to adjust the sub volume lower even more with the remote (which isn't what most will want to do, rather most will likely want to raise it a few db louder).

The AVR will generally set any speaker that is capable of playing a < 50hz frequency (regardless of what the mfr's spec is on paper) in your room to LARGE. Note this setting is NOT about the physical size of the speaker, rather simply whether it can play low frequencies (LARGE) or not (SMALL). However, after running Audyssey Setup, if you are using a sub, go into the Denon GUI and change ALL speakers to SMALL and raise any crossovers that were set below 80Hz up to either 60Hz or 80Hz (whichever you prefer). This not only transfers those lower frequencies to the sub (which is generally able to handle them better as it's got it's own amp) but also frees up some extra headroom for the AVR. Also note that there are 64x (MultEQ) and 8x (MultEQ XT) more Audyssey filters used for the sub then for the speakers so your setup will likely sound better by transferring more to the sub (note that XT32 employs the same number of filters for the speakers and sub). Feel free to adjust the sub or speaker volume level higher/lower using the GUI menu to suit your preference as doing so will not affect the Audyssey filters. For better center channel dialog during TV viewing, make sure the center speaker is angled up/down (as required) towards ear height of your main listening position. You can also set the Audyssey Dyn EQ Reference Level Offset setting to "10db" for the cable/sat box source.

2012 (1613 and higher) and 2013 models (E300 and higher): feature a “Dialogue Level” setting which can also be adjusted to increase/decrease center channel volume level.

Note that in order to use Audyssey MultEQ, as well as the Audyssey related features Dyn EQ (increases bass and surround audio at lower volumes below 0db) or Dyn Volume (tames loud commercials/explosions for late night viewing), you must run Audyssey Setup. Generally most folks will want to use Dyn EQ for all sources, all the time (as most everyone listens at below 0db), and use Dyn VOL (EVENING/MEDIUM) for TV and late night movie viewing only (when it's important to keep the loud explosions down due to sleeping kids, etc.), leaving it OFF for regular movie viewing when there's no need to be quiet.

c. Subwoofer Settings: Prior to running Audyssey Setup, the sub knobs should be set as shown below. Refer to your AVR Owner's manual section on "Setup Speakers (Audyssey Setup) - Setup subwoofer." For information on setting up dual subs, refer to the Audyssey Setup Guide para III. If you have an AVR with dual sub pre-outs (2313CI/3313CI/X3000/X4000), simply connect a digital coax cable from each pre-out to each sub, otherwise, you can also use a RCA “Y” splitter cable from a single sub pre-out to each sub.

Volume : “12 o'clock position” (or middle volume) •

Crossover frequency : “Maximum/Highest Frequency” (eg. if 80hz-150hz, then set to 150hz) •

Low pass filter : “Off” or maximum/highest frequency (eg. if 80hz-150hz, then set to 150hz) Note: This is not the same as the "LPF for LFE" setting on the AVR which should be left at it's factory default setting of 120hz •

Standby mode : “Off” (ie. sub should be powered ON and not in AUTO) •

Phase : 0

Once Audyssey Setup settings are saved and you are satisfied with the settings (ie. sub is not set to -12db), DO NOT make any further volume adjustments on the sub itself (other than possibly changing the power from "ON" to "AUTO"), rather adjust the sub volume using the remote control, the GUI menu. Although the speaker "distances" will likely be spot on, the sub "distance" will likely be considerably longer as it is actually a value that allows for a delay due to filters in the sub so do NOT manually change the sub distance to its actual distance.

2012 (1613 and higher) and 2013 models (E300 and higher) - There is no box around the word Audyssey icon on the front panel display (which is the case on 2011 and earlier Audyssey models) so there is no change to the front panel display when changes are made to the speaker settings (ie. the word Audyssey remains lighted as before whereas on 2011 and earlier models, the box around the word Audyssey will disappear).

Although there is a note in the manual that specifies "After performing Audyssey Setup, do not change the speaker settings or subwoofer volume. In event of a change perform Audyssey Setup again.", this really should say "if adding additional speakers or changing the location/orientation of the speakers/sub" as neither changing the speaker settings or subwoofer volume will require you to rerun Audyssey again.

a. Component --> HDMI Video Conversion: Only the 2012 (1913 and higher) and 2013 (E400 and higher) can convert an analog video source to HDMI. Another alternate option is to use a component --> HDMI converter or if you have a Wii you can use the Wii2HDMI.

b. GUI/Menu display All 2012 (XX13) and 2013 (E/X) models can ONLY display the GUI/status menu over an HDMI connection to your TV. Although much of the information can be read on the front panel display, some setup information is NOT displayed so you are much better served reviewing the GUI setup on the TV. To display the GUI, simply press the appropriate menu button on the remote (ie. INFO, OPTION, or SETUP). If you only use a projector with no HDTV, you may want to consider purchasing a small 12" HDMI display for setup use only.

Note: The GUI is displayed in 480i resolution so if you have an older TV that cannot display 480i over HDMI, try playing a video source and displaying the GUI over the non-480i video source. The GUI display defaults to 30sec for the NET/USB, TUNER, and iPOD menus. This setting can be changed to 10sec, OFF, or always ON. When using the Video Select feature, eg. to watch cable TV with the TUNER as the audio source, you may have to set the TUNER GUI display to OFF. One piece of information that is not displayed on the front panel display is the AVR's IP address; however, one owner (w/o an HDMI TV) was able to get the IP Address by using the iPhone remote app DeRemote.

c. HDMI --> Component Video Conversion: If you have an older non-HDMI TV, note that there is no HDMI--> Component video conversion by any current AVR on the market. Either you must use the 2313CI, 3313CI, or X4000, which have (2) component video inputs AND (1) output, or you can use an external device that can do the conversion.

d. Master Volume Adjustment: Unlike perhaps your older receiver that was really loud at say 1/4 of the maximum master volume scale, Denon AVRs use a logarithmic scale and will require the volume turned to roughly 2/3 of the maximum for average volume levels. Denon AVRs have two volume scales, the default being "absolute" (0-98) and "relative" ( -79.5db to +18db), although note that the terms “relative” and “absolute” are no longer used in the XX13 and E/X manuals. If you have run Audyssey Setup, then average volume for most folks with 8Ω speakers and at least 87db+ efficiency, will be around -30db to -20db (51-61 absolute) for TV listening and -20db to -10db (61-71 absolute) for movie/music listening. Each model has a "Volume Limit" setting that defaults to OFF although can be set to 60(-20db), 70 (-10db), or 80 (0db). Setting this to 70 (-10db) is a good idea to ensure that others in the house cannot raise the master volume too loud which might cause the AVR to shut down in protection mode or clip the speakers. Also, to ensure the AVR doesn't shut down in protection mode, it's a good idea to not raise the volume above 80(0db) (little additional volume gained at the price of an extreme increase in power required). Also note that when adjusting the volume using the remote, it's better to tap the volume up/down buttons as pressing and holding it down for several seconds results in a HUGE change in volume. This is common to ALL stock Denon remotes.

f. MUTE Icon: There is currently no way to remove the MUTE icon from the TV display when in the MUTE mode. To prevent the relays from clicking when pressing MUTE, change the “Mute Level” setting from “FULL” to “-40db.

g. Power OFF AVR: The only way to turn the AVR completely OFF is to unplug it, otherwise it is either ON or in Standby. Each model will use anywhere from roughly 65W-85W when ON (no audio playing) to 80W-100W at reference volume (0db) using 8Ω speakers of at least average sensitivity (ie 87db+). In Standby they will use 0.1W with HDMI Control OFF, 0.5W with HDMI Control ON, and about 2.7W with IP Control set to ON.

h. Power Ratings: For marketing purposes, Denon generally uses 6Ω ratings (ie. gives a higher wattage rating) on the lower level AVRs which is why you will find them advertised (eg. Best Buy) at higher power ratings than listed in their Owner manuals or in these info posts both of which use the 8Ω rating. For example the 1913/E400 are 90W AVRs; however, are marketed as being 125W. Remember to read the fine print when checking the power ratings of an AVR. Also note that the difference in power ratings between these models is moot as going from the 75W (1613/E300) to the 125W (3313CI/X4000) will result in less than a 3db increase in volume .... 3db being the lowest amount of volume that can generally be detected by most people. This is the reason that if you truly want additional volume capability, you are better served adding an external amp of at least 200W+ (although this can only be done with the 3313CI/X4000 models as they are the only models with main zone pre-outs to connect to an external amp) or simply buying speakers that are at least 3db more efficient (eg. from 86db to 89db efficiency/sensitivity rating).

i. Power Indicator Light when AVR in Standby: When either "HDMI Control" or "HDMI Pass Through" are set to ON or "IP Control” is set to ALWAYS ON, the power indicator light above the power button on the AVR's front panel will change to solid "red" when placed in Standby mode.

j. Protection Mode: If the AVR shuts off in protection mode and the power indicator light flashes red, it generally means the following based on the frequency of flashes:

Every 2 sec = temperature of the AVR is too hot (provide more ventilation)

The most common cause for shutting down, is a loose speaker wire strand touching another post. A great way to shore up loose speaker wire strands is to use banana plugs on those models that accept banana plugs (ie. 1613 and higher and "X" series). Visually check the speaker connections at both the AVR and the speakers themselves to guarantee that speaker wire from one post isn't touching another post. Pull the AVR out of the rack or cabinet if you have to in order to ensure this is the case. If you have in wall speaker wire, it's very possible a nail may have split the speaker wire casing causing it to short. If you have confirmed there are no speaker wire issues and are not running 4Ω speakers excessively loud, then disconnect all sources and add one at a time to see if the issue is being caused by a particular source. If not, then disconnect all the speakers and add one speaker back at a time to see if the issue is caused by a particular speaker. If not and you are using a power strip, try connecting directly to the outlet as you may have a bad power strip. If still no joy, then try resetting the microprocessor as a last resort. If still no joy, you're likely looking at having to send the unit in for repair as it could be amp failure.

k. Remote Control: The Denon 2012 and 2013 stock remotes cannot operate other 3rd party devices (except 3313CI/X4000). If you want to boost your Wife Acceptance Factor (WAF), your best bet is to purchase a Harmony (or other universal/programmable) remote which can be used for not only most every function on the Denon stock remote but also to control your other devices as well. Simply download the remote codes for your particular Denon AVR model (and other devices) from the Logitech data base. Numerous Harmony models from $50 on up are available.

l. Settings - Memory Retention: All settings in the AVR to include the Audyssey settings should be retained for at least 1-2 weeks if the power cable is disconnected from the AVR. In some instances, if the power is interrupted (eg. power outage) while the AVR is powered ON, the settings may return to their factory default settings.

m. Setup Lock: When you have small kids in the house, it may be a good idea to consider setting the "Setup Lock" feature to ON. This setting defaults to OFF from the factory. Also, with cats around, check for loose cable connections at the rear panel if you suddenly start having connection issues.

a. Owner's Manual: Denon no longer provides a hard copy Owner's manual, but rather a CD with a .pdf file of the Owner's manual. This same .pdf file can be downloaded from Denon's website here. The X series manuals are especially formatted for the iPad and tablets.

2012 models (1913 and higher): The 1913 includes a video chip that upscales to 1080p/24 while the CI models use the ADV-8003 that upscales to and passes through up to 4K video.

2013 models (E400, X2000 and higher): These models include the ADV-8003 video chip that can upscale to and pass through up to 4K video. Note that the X1000 can only pass through up to 1080p and does no video analog--> HDMI conversion or upscaling. The Silicon Image chip used on the X3000/X4000 is used for the InstaPreview feature.

b. 3313CI/X4000 extra speaker posts: Although the 3313CI and X4000 both feature 11 sets of speaker posts, they can only provide 7 (3313CI) and 9 (X4000) channels of audio at a time ... the extra speaker posts are merely provided for convenience so as not to have to rewire for other configurations. The newer X4000 also has 11.2 pre-outs with the capability to expand from 7CH to 9CH audio using an external amp. If you want to run more than 9 speakers in the main zone, you will need to upgrade to the 4520CI which is a 9.2 AVR (capable of up to 11.2 w/external 2 CH amp).

c. Amp Assign - Bi-Amp: Using this mode (known as "passive bi-amping") generally produces no noticeable improvement in either audio quality nor extra power as you're simply sending the same full range signal to each set of posts on the bi-ampable speaker (which they would still get with a single connection) from the same single power supply in the AVR. If you want extra power for the speakers (which in most cases is not necessary for 8Ω speakers with an 86db+ efficiency in small/med sized rooms), the only USA models that will allow for an external amp connection are the 3313CI and X4000 both of which have main zone pre-outs.

d. ARC (Audio Return Channel): This is the feature that will pass audio from the TV (eg. OTA, Netflix, Hulu, Vudu, etc.) back to the AVR over the same HDMI cable that connects the AVR from the Monitor Out jack to the TV. In order for the ARC feature to work, it must be offered on both the TV and the AVR. Just because the TV and AVR are HDMI 1.4 DOES NOT mean they offer the ARC feature. Note the 1513 and E200 do NOT offer ARC and therefore ARC will not work when either model is connected to a TV with ARC. In order to use the TV's ARC feature you must set the TV's "HDMI-CEC" setting (LG - SimpLink; Phillips - EasyLink; Panasonic - VieraLink; Sony - BraviaSync; Samsung - Anynet+; Toshiba - CE-Link,RegzaLink) to ON as well as setting the AVR's "HDMI Control" setting to ON as the factory default is OFF. Some TV's also require the audio to be set to external speakers (eg. Samsung - set to Home Theater). Also make sure the HDMI cable from the AVR is plugged into the ARC labeled jack on the TV (eg. HDMI1 - Panasonic, HDMI2 - Samsung, Panasonic). Note that with the 3313CI, only one of the HDMI Monitor Out jacks will support the ARC feature at a time and must be set using the HDMI Control (Control Monitor) setting (p. 109/?). Once these settings are made, turn all devices OFF for a few minutes and then ON again ... TV first and then the AVR. Note that a side effect when using the TV's HDMI-CEC/ARC set to ON is that the AVR will always shift to the "TV" source input when first turned ON rather than going to the last input that was on prior to the AVR being put into Standby (as is the case when ARC is OFF). Note also that with some TVs (ie. Samsung) the AVR will also revert to the TV input while in Standby which will prevent you from using the HDMI pass through feature (eg. cable/sat box) without turning the HDMI-CEC setting on the TV to OFF. If this is too annoying, either turn off the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on the TV when not using it or forgo the ARC feature (set HDMI-CEC/ARC to OFF) and use an optical cable from the TV to the AVR. The optical cable will pass the same audio (PCM 2.0 or DD 5.1) that the HDMI cable would have passed with no loss in audio quality. Another option, if not trying to pass audio from the TV back to the AVR is to simply delete the "TV" source using the SOURCE DELETE feature in the OPTION menu. If you have the cable/sat box connected directly to the TV (eg. due to an HDMI handshake issue), check your TV owner's manual to see if the TV will pass DD 5.1 from connected sources when using the ARC connection (as most down mix to stereo only). If not, then connect an optical cable from the sat/cable box to the AVR instead if it passes DD 5.1 over the optical audio out.

e. Bluetooth Adapter:: Although Denon AVRs do not feature bluetooth connectivity, you can connect a 3rd party bluetooth adapter (eg. Logitech or Belkin) to the AVR's analog input and wirelessly stream audio from any bluetooth capable device (eg. iPhone, iPad, android phone, etc.).

f. CI/X Models: The 2012 "CI" and 2013 "X" models include such features as remote control jacks (used with IR extenders/repeaters), RS-232 jack for remote access (eg. home automation systems like Crestron), maintenance mode (pro installer or service tech only), and Audyssey Pro installer ready (2313CI/3313CI/X3000/X4000 only) - using an Audyssey Pro installer kit via a registered Pro Installer or the kit can be purchased by consumers for $700 ($550 kit/mic + $150 license/AVR). Refer to the Audyssey website for more information). The "CI" and "X" models also offer a 3 year warranty (vice 2 years for the non-CI and E series models).

g. HDMI Audio Out: This feature only works with devices connected to the AVR with an HDMI cable. It's an "either/or" setting in that the audio can be set to pass to the "AVR" or the "TV", but not both at the same time.

h. HDMI Standby Pass Through: This feature allows you to pass HDMI connected sources only through the AVR (when in Standby) to the TV. On the 2012 models, set HDMI Control to ON (factory default is OFF) and set the Standby Source to either LAST (default) or to a specific HDMI jack # (eg. that the cable/sat box is connected to). On the 2013 models, HDMI Control does not need to be set to ON as there is a new "HDMI Pass Through" setting which defaults to ON with the "Pass Through Source" defaulting to CBL/SAT. Once making these settings, turn the AVR and TV off for a few minutes, then power both back on, the TV first, then the AVR. If this feature is not working for you, try setting the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on your TV to OFF.

i. SAVE/LOAD config settings: The 2012 (1713 and higher models) and 2013 (X models) come with the feature to SAVE/LOAD the config/settings file (includes Audyssey settings) to a PC using the on board Web Control feature via the AVR's OSD. Note: Although this feature is not offered on the 1613 or the E300/E400 networking models; both the Web Control and the SAVE/LOAD features can still be accessed using the procedure noted below. If you are having difficulty SAVE(ing) a file, make sure to stop any network playback by first playing something on the network and then either pressing the Stop Playback (black square) or the ENTER button on the remote for a few seconds. You may also need to set "Network Standby" to OFF (contrary to what the Owner's manual indicates). The config.dat file should be about 348kb for all models but the X4000 (952kb); however, it's a good idea to confirm the AVR is actually saving data in the file as the file size will be 348kb or 952kdb whether it's all zeroes or filled with zeroes and some data. If it is all zeroes, it will not LOAD successfully. Use a Windows hex viewer (eg. http://download.cnet.com/HxD-Hex-Edi...-10891068.html) or Mac hex viewer (eg. http://hexedit.en.softonic.com/mac) to view the file and confirm whether it is all zeroes or not. If you do get a file with all zeroes or if a file with data won't load properly, then set Network Standby to OFF/Off in Standby, cycle the AVR OFF/ON and then try a SAVE again which should result in a config.dat file with non-zero data. It's also a good idea to SAVE the settings prior to a firmware update even though firmware updates generally don't change the system settings. If you are having difficulty using IE, try using Firefox or Chrome (see Post #2775). If still no joy when trying to LOAD the config.dat file, try setting IP Control to "Off in Standby", cycle the AVR to OFF, then ON again and try the LOAD. If yet still no joy, try resetting the microprocessor and then do the LOAD again.

How to gain access to the Web Control and SAVE/LOAD features using the 1613, E300 and E400

Enter the AVR's IP address (eg. 192.168.XXX.XX) in the web browser of a laptop. If the Web Control menu does not display, enter the following additional information after the IP address. Using the previous example IP address ....

Web Control: 192.168.XXX.XX/MainZone/index.html (note that although the E400 does have the Web Control feature, the AVR's OSD does not provide access to the SAVE/LOAD feature without using the URL below)

j. Stream iPhone/DLNA music to non-network models: If you have a PS3, xbox360, or laptop that is connected to your home network as well as hard wired to your AVR, you can use the AirMusic iPhone app to stream audio to these devices and play it through your surround setup. There are also several other devices that can be used to include Apple TV, Airport Express, as well as converting the audio to a FM frequency and playing it via the built in TUNER. Read this article for more details. You can also use a Bluetooth adapter to wirelessly stream audio from a bluetooth device (iphone, iPad, android phone, etc.) to either a non-network or networking model as mentioned a few items above.

k. Watch TV while listening to a different audio source:You have a couple of different options here. One option is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV w/optical from the cable/sat box to the AVR. That way you can use the HDMI to the TV for video and then select whatever audio source you want on the AVR. Another option on the 2012 models is to use the "Video Source" feature noting that you cannot select an HDMI video source. Rather you must connect the cable/sat box to the AVR with a component video/optical cable and then while the audio source is selected (eg. TUNER), change the "Video Source" setting to the component video source. Note that on the 2012 models, with a "network" audio source selected, this feature cannot be used; however, with the 3313CI there is a work around in that you can connect the Zone 2(HDMI) monitor output to another input on the main zone TV and then while listening to a network audio source, select the Zone 2 input on the TV. On the newer 2013 models, this also applies to the E200 using the "Video Select" feature and with the E300 and higher models, any video source (to include HDMI) can be selected while listening to USB, Tuner, or network sources using the "Video Select" setting. On the 2013 models with a CD analog audio input (ie. E400, X2000/3000/4000) you can connect an external source to the CD input (as long as there is no video assigned to CD) and listen to it while watching a separate video source. The X4000 also adds the Phono input which can be used with "Video Select" as well.

a. Bitstream vs. PCM: When playing audio from a BD/DVD, you can set the Blu Ray player (BDP) to either "bitstream" or "PCM/Direct". By setting it to "PCM/Direct" the BDP will decode (or unzip) the file which will then pass the audio in its original uncompressed format (ie. multi-channel PCM) to the AVR which will then display "MULT CH IN" on the front panel, or you can "bitstream" the audio and just let the BDP pass the compressed file directly to the AVR to let the AVR decode (or unzip) it in which case you will see the compressed file codec used (eg. DD, DTS, Dolby TrueHD, DTS HD MA, etc.) on the front panel display. Either way the audio quality will be the same, although the bitstreamed audio will likely sound a bit louder, and most prefer to see the compressed file codec on their AVR's front panel display rather than just "MULT CH IN". When bitstreaming the audio, ensure the "Secondary audio" or "Audio Mix" setting (if there is one) on the BDP is set to OFF. Also note that HD audio tracks can be either 5.1 or 7.1; regardless, it will be downmixed to however many speakers are in your setup.

b. HDMI Cable 1.3 vs. 1.4: There is no difference between a "High Speed" HDMI 1.3 cable and a "High Speed" HDMI 1.4 cable. Cables are either “High Speed” (1080p) or “Standard speed” (720p/1080i). If it is an HDMI 1.3 cable and can pass 1080p video, you don't need to buy new cables because you upgraded to an HDMI 1.4 AVR. For cable and switch needs consider forum sponsors Monoprice and Blue Jeans Cable where good quality "High Speed" 6' HDMI cables can be had for about $5 each. There's no reason to get ripped off buying overpriced Monster cables at Best Buy. There's also no reason to pay more for an HDMI cable w/Ethernet as none of the current models can take advantage of the Ethernet feature in this cable.

c. Keep the box: The original Denon box the AVR comes in should be kept for the life of the AVR as it will be needed if the AVR has to be returned to the vendor you purchased it from or if it needs to be shipped to a repair facility for firmware updates or repair.

d. Older AVR w/o HDMI jacks: If you have an older generation AVR that lacks HDMI jacks and the only reason you want to upgrade to an HDMI AVR is to get the new HD codecs (DD TrueHD and DTS HD MA), then unless you want to spend more money, keep your old AVR as the lossy DD/DTS tracks on BD's are created at a higher bitrate (~640kbps vs. 430kbps) on a regular DVD. You will likely be hard pressed to discern any audio difference between these tracks and the HD audio tracks via HDMI.

e. USA/CA vs. Europe/Asia Pacific Models: Although the USA/CA and Europe/Asia Pacific models are very similar, there are some noted differences to include: (1) the Europe/Asia Pacific 1913 also includes a Source Select knob and Audyssey MultEQ XT whereas the USA/CA 1913 only uses MultEQ, (2) the Europe/Asia Pacific 2313/X3000 feature main zone 7.2 pre-outs whereas the USA/CA 2313CI/X3000 do not, (3) The USA/CA X1000 features Zone 2 pre-outs whereas the Europe/Asia Pacific X1000 does not, and (4) none of the "E" series are offered in Europe/Asia Pacific, rather they are replaced by the X500 instead. Also note there is a 2 digit code on the OEM shipping box with the model number that identifies the region of the AVR (eg. 1913 E3): EU or E3 = USA, EC = Canada, E1 = Asia, E2 = Europe, and EA = Australia.

f. Used/Demo/Open Box/Refurb: When purchasing an other than new in box unit (ie. demo/used/refurb), you'll want to reset the microprocessor before starting the setup process which will ensure all settings are returned to their original factory defaults.

a. Airplay: The Airplay feature (audio only) is offered on the 1613/E300 and higher networking models. It allows you to stream your iTunes songs wirelessly from your laptop, iPhone 3GS or newer (will not work with iPhone 3G), or iPad to one of the above models when both are connected to your home network. This feature can also be replicated on non-networking model by using an Apple TV (audio and video) or Airport Express (audio) connected to the AVR. Also note that Apple currently has only licensed AVR mfr's to use Airplay in "audio only" mode (ie. no video). If you want to pass video, you'll to need to add the Apple TV (ATV). Note that in order to pass the ATV's optical audio to all of the 2012 Zone 2 AVRs (ie. 1713 and higher) as well as to the 2013 E400, you will also need to buy an optical to RCA analog converter similar to this one as these models can only pass “analog” audio from externally connected sources to Zone 2.

A "wired" connection from the AVR to the router/modem is preferred to reduce connection issues and reduce audio dropouts due to buffering (eg. AVR front panel display reads “Buffering 60%). If you don't want a networking model, adding an Apple TV will give you Airplay, although there are noted issues with the ATV having audio dropouts regardless of the brand of AVR connection. Some have noted that turning off bluetooth and closing background applications on your iphone, ipad, etc. will reduce/eliminate the Airplay audio dropouts. Also, if having connectivity issues, try unplugging the AVR for a few minutes and then power on again.

Notes: (1) When using Airplay, the source controls the initial volume so make sure it is turned down on your laptop, iPhone, iPad, etc. before starting to stream the audio through your surround speakers. (2) If you want to turn the AVR ON to use Airplay, make sure IP CONTROL is set to ALWAYS ON (default setting on the 2013 models), and download one of the REMOTE apps listed in para 7(f) below. (3) In order to use Airplay with an Android phone, you can use the doubleTwist app. (4) When selecting Airplay to play to Zone 2, the main zone will initially be hijacked and play the same Airplay source selected for Zone 2, although once playing in Zone 2, you can reselect the source that was playing in the main zone. Note that with the XX13 models you cannot turn the main zone off while Airplay is playing to Zone 2 while this is no longer the case with the new E/X models.

b. Connecting to a home network: None of the 2012 or 2013 models are "wireless" or include the capability of being wireless by adding a Wifi dongle/USB adapter. You must either connect the network capable AVR directly to a router/modem with an ethernet cable (recommended) or connect the AVR to a wireless bridge like this one or this one or this one. The Airport Express can be setup as a wireless bridge as well as provides Airplay capability. If you're having problems with connecting with the Airport Express, disconnect the Airport Express from the AVR and connect it to a laptop and try to make that connection work first, turning off the wireless adapter in the laptop.

A couple of alternatives to a wireless bridge are: (1) Powerline adapters that plug into nearby outlets that can then connect to your wireless router/modem which effectively turns your house wiring into a "wired" network, or (2) Ethernet over coax MoCA adapters which use your existing coax cable used for your TV.

If you don't plan on using the network capability for other than firmware updates, 100' Cat 5/6 ethernet cables are fairly inexpensive and available from forum sponsor Monoprice. You can also purchase 1000' Cat 5/6 bulk cable if longer length is required; however, note the maximum length without signal amplification is 100m or roughly 300'.

If you are experiencing intermittent audio dropouts while using the network streaming feature, consider connecting the AVR directly to the router rather than a wireless connection or consider upgrading to a newer, better quality router that is able to handle more bandwidth. Additionally, if you have a NETGEAR router which is causing problems, try disabling the UPnP mode. Also make sure that the router's SSID is not "hidden", nor should it have a blank (" ") in its’ name. If you are using a XFinity cable/modem, try setting it to "bridge" mode.

e. NET/USB: When finished using the NET/USB input source, it's important to back all the way out of the menus otherwise the connection will remain open.

f. Remote Control Smartphone apps: The Denon REMOTE app is a FREE app that can be downloaded from the iTunes website here and used by an iPhone, iPod touch or iPad to control the networking models from anywhere in the house (where wireless internet is available). For the more experienced iPhone/iPad remote users, you may want to try the iPhone GUI Design application, Demopad . The Denon REMOTE app for Android phones is also FREE and can be downloaded here. Android phone users can also download AVR-Remote free as well which works on both Denon and Marantz AVRs.

A couple of other similar apps (fee required), DenONOFF and DeRemote can also be used on prior year models going back to XX08. Or if having audio/drop out issues using Airplay, consider using the 2Player android app. Make sure the Network Standby setting is set to ON in order to turn the AVR ON from Standby. If the remote app should suddenly stop working, try powering off the AVR and unplug it for a few minutes.

i. Spotify Smartphone apps: In addition to the on board Spotify capability on the networking models, Spotify mobile audio can be streamed to the AVR (w/monthly subscription) using either the Spotify iPhone app or possibly the Spotify android phone app. Using an iPhone, in Spotify, start a track, click the information sign and next to the volume, click the TV icon with an arrow in it to then select the Airplay speakers. If the Airplay icon fails to show up, try cycling the iPhone OFF then ON again. Using an android phone, you may need to read the following article and may need to load Airfoil to a PC in order to get it to work. Note: If someone can confirm what is required to make this work with an Android phone, please PM me with the details. Another method to play Spotify is using the "Spotimote" android app. Download the software to your PC running Spotify and connect the PC to an input on the AVR. Then download the app to your phone and you can control Spotify on the PC from your phone.

a. Best Buy/Magnolia: Best Buy is Denon's largest customer so you can generally find the full line of Denon AVRs at their stores, although specific models will be limited depending on whether there is a Magnolia in the store or not. Best Buy stores with no Magnolia will generally only sell the lower level models (E series) while those with a Magnolia will sell the mid level X models. Do you have Best Buy gift cards but would prefer to buy at one of the on line authorized resellers that offer a discount? There are several sights that will buy your gift cards at roughly 90% of face value including CardCash. Although you will generally always pay full MSRP when purchasing the current year models at a Best Buy/Magnolia with a 10% discount for open box/demo units, the benefit of purchasing here is there is no restocking fee if returned within 15 days (longer if Rewards Member), regardless of whether it's defective or not, whereas the on-line authorized resellers that provide a discount will normally charge a 15-20% restocking fee plus require you to pay return shipping. Also note that Best Buy has some great deals when clearing out previous year's models so be sure to visit the store before considering a 2013 model to possibly get a higher 2012 model and still stay within your budget.

b. On-line Dealers: AVScience (877-823-4452) is an AVSForum sponsor and is an authorized Denon dealer, but is listed on Denon's store front authorized dealer webpage (as opposed to the on line dealer webpage).

c. Warranty: In order for the Denon warranty to be valid, the AVR must be purchased from an authorized reseller, either on-line or B&M store. Although Amazon is an authorized reseller, that is only if they are the "seller" so check where it says "Ships from and sold by XXXX" to ensure the XXXX company is either Amazon or another Denon authorized reseller. Unless they are listed on Denon's website as an authorized reseller, the warranty may not be valid (ie. some vendors are not listed on the website but purchase from authorized resellers and therefore the warranty is still valid so call Denon if in doubt). If purchasing from an unauthorized reseller, you may want to purchase a 3rd party "Date of Purchase" warranty which is often times offered by the unauthorized vendors. In some cases the reseller will offer their own in house warranty.

Warranty period (when purchased from authorized reseller)

New or demo or "open box": 2012 Non “CI” models and 2013 "E" Series - 2 years ; 2012 “CI” models and 2013 "X" series - 3 years

Refurbished (any model) – 1 year

Notes:
(a) Denon has been known to extend the warranty period up to 45 days beyond normal expiration.

(b) If your unit requires service and the service center cannot repair/return it within 30 days, the repair facility "should" offer a refurbished unit if available. If you accept the refurbished unit, rather than wait, your warranty on the refurbished unit would be the time remaining from the original new unit purchase.

(c) Buying refurbished units can be a good way to save some money, although receiving a defective "refurbished" unit is not uncommon. There's also no guarantee that the refurbished unit will have any updated firmware installed. In some cases you can get a brand new, fully warrantied unit from one of the authorized resellers (eg. AV Science) for a price comparable to the refurbished unit when taking into account the cost to purchase an extended warranty.

(d) "Open box" deals from an authorized dealer will generally come with a full mfr's warranty (although note that Amazon Warehouse deals are no longer warrantied by Denon at all). In general these can be great deals as often times the previous buyer simply didn't understand how to set up the AVR (and obviously didn't know about AVS forum) and so there's often nothing wrong with the AVR. Check to make sure you have all the included accessories, although if the mic is missing, you can generally buy one off of eBay (ACM1HB - US distributors only) or from Denon directly for about $25.

(e) Some credit card issuers will add an additional year to the mfr's warranty (new or refurbished), so before you give up on your old AVR, or consider adding to the Denon warranty with a 3rd party warranty (eg. SquareTrade), if you purchased with a credit card, check to see if they offer a free Extended Warranty benefit. Note that although Accessories4Less (refurbs) currently does not accept AMEX, you can purchase using Pay Pal with an AMEX card attached which would still qualify for the 1 year additional warranty.

(f) Denon has changed the return policy when purchasing a refurb from Accessories4Less (AC4L). Rather than returning the refurb to AC4L, you will contact Denon directly to troubleshoot the issue and if still no joy, you will deal with Denon directly for an exchange/return. Often time’s returns are not warranted, rather simply the new owner not understanding how to setup the AVR.

a. 12v Trigger: When connecting a trigger jack to an external device that also has a trigger jack, use a 1/8" to 1/8" Mono cable like this one to connect the AVR to the device you want to trigger (eg. external amp, projection screen, lights, etc.). Although triggers are more sophisticated than switched outlets, the simple ON/OFF feature of a trigger can be replicated using a smart power strip (although note this particular model doesn't work with all AVRs) rather than getting the 2313CI/X3000 (1 trigger) or 3313CI/X4000 (2 triggers). If you are using an external amp that goes to Standby when powered back on (eg. Emotiva), consider using this trigger switch from Emotiva along with the smart power strip.

b. IR Extender/Repeater Kit: An IR extender/repeater kit can be used to extend the IR signal of the Denon remote when the AVR is located in a closet or other room. There are numerous 3rd party kits on the market which will include a powered "blaster" and a receiver, although not all may work with your model so before buying, ask the reseller if it's been tested with your model. The powered "blaster" will have either a single or multiple wired emitters connected to it (generally with no more than 6' wire) that are placed over the IR sensor on the front panel of each device you want to control and as such, can be used with ANY Denon AVR model. The receiver is then placed in the room in which you will be using the remote control. Some kits cannot be used in close proximity to a LCD or plasma TV and others have limited range so be sure to read the fine print before buying one of these kits. On Denon AVRs the IR sensor is located about 1/3 from the left side of the front panel display (see picture in your Owner's manual). The "CI" and "X" series models include a Remote Control IR IN jack which can provide a cleaner connection in the rear panel of the AVR rather than having to place an emitter over the IR sensor on the front panel display. If you have a CI/X model and would prefer to use the Remote Control IN jack, there are kits that use a 3.5mm plug instead of an emitter or AFAIK, you can simply replace the emitter with a 3.5mm mono-to-mono cable. Google "IR extender kit" or "IR repeater kit" and ensure you read the fine print to get a model that is appropriate for your particular requirements. Also make sure it is returnable if it doesn't work correctly.

c. Switched Outlets: Denon AVRs no longer include switched outlets; however, they can be easily replicated by using a smart power strip like this one or this one. Also, as a reminder, when using an AVR with switched outlets, never plug the subwoofer into them as they are not designed for a high amperage device like a subwoofer.

d. Turntable/Phono: Although the 3313CI and X4000 are the only models with a Phono input, you can connect a turntable to any model using a phono pre-amp similar to this one (if one is not built in to the turntable). Simply connect the pre-amp to any of the analog inputs on the AVR.

a. Dual subwoofers: If you have 2 (or more) subs that you want to connect, but don't need the features offered in the 2313CI/3313CI or X3000/X4000 (all of which have 2 sub pre-out jacks), simply pick up a RCA "Y" splitter at Monoprice (or Radio Shack or Walmart) and connect it to the single sub preout on the 2113CI/X2000 or lower models and you'll create the same result. The 2313CI, 3313CI, and X3000 simply use an internal "Y" splitter. Note that on the X4000 only, the sub pre-outs are used separately for each sub by the Sub EQ HT feature to level match and set the delay for each sub independently.

c. Minimum number of speakers: All models can run with a minimum of 2 speakers up to 5 (or 9) depending on the model. Audyssey will work just as well with 2 speakers as it will with up to and including 9 speakers.

d. Speaker Recommendation: When considering speakers, the general rule of thumb for a good 5.1 setup is to budget at least 2x the cost of the AVR (ie. $500 AVR -> $1000+ 5.1 speaker setup), the bottom line is you're much better served with a lower quality AVR and better quality speakers, then a higher level AVR and lower quality speakers. If you're considering one of the lower level models (or your budget is < $500 for speakers), a good setup is either the Energy Take 5.1 Classic , Klipsch HDT 300 5.1, Jamo 5.1, or the Fluance 5.0 (so you'll need to add a sub). If you don't mind spending some time in the used market (eg. Craigslist), you can sometimes find a $1000-$1500 5.1 original MSRP setup for $500 or less. Although Denon AVRs are designed to work with 6-8Ω speakers, you can generally safely use 4Ω speakers if the volume is limited to average listening volume only (ie. max volume roughly -20db). However, it's generally better to stick with 8Ω speakers unless using the 3313CI/X4000 in which case you can add an external amp if necessary. Review this post for more information on the impact of speaker efficiency. Bottom line is that going from speakers rated at 86db efficiency to 89db efficiency is like going from a 75W AVR to a 150W AVR so look for more efficient speakers rather than a higher powered AVR. Ideally you would want to demo different speakers at a Best Buy/Magnolia or other Hi Fi shop, keeping in mind these stores generally do not run the AVRs EQ program (eg. Audyssey) so if you like their sound in the store, they'll likely sound even better when in your home after running Audyssey Setup. If you are just starting to build your speaker setup, it's better to have better quality front three speakers L/C/R and sub and hold off on the surround speakers until you can afford them. If TV and movies will make up the majority of your audio listening, you'll ideally want the center speaker to be of the same (or better) quality than your front L/R speakers as 80%+ of the dialogue will come from the center speaker.

If you have a 5.1 surround setup from a HTIB that you want to use with your new AVR ... DON’T, at least not without checking what impedance the speakers are rated. More often than not, HTIB speakers are generally only 2-4Ω speakers designed to work only with the receiver that came with the HTIB and in some cases have special wire connectors. If they are 6Ω or 8Ω speakers (as is the case with Denon Boston Acoustics setups), you're good to go, otherwise, sell the HTIB speaker setup on Craigslist or eBay and buy a stand-alone 8Ω speaker setup. Also, ideally stay away from Bose speaker systems as they generally don't work well with Audyssey due to having to be connected to the Bose Acoustimass module first so the AVR never sees the sub.

e. Speaker/Subwoofer Volume: Press the SETUP button on the remote and change the speaker levels in the Manual Setup menu. These adjustments can be made without impacting the Audyssey filters. However, before making adjustments to the sub (esp. increasing the volume), try leaving it at the current setting (after running Audyssey Setup) for at least 2-3 weeks to adjust to the "reference" setting the mixer intended rather than the boomy bass many are used to hearing from older model receivers. If after that time, you still feel you want the sub volume louder, then bump it up a few db using the AVR menu to suit your "preference."

f. Speaker Wire: For speaker wire runs up to 80', a 16AWG wire will be sufficient. Longer runs should use 14AWG wire. A good place to buy speaker wire is from forum sponsor Monoprice.

h. Subwoofer - Cable option: If you don't have a digital coax cable handy to connect the sub preout on the AVR to the sub, you can use the "yellow" composite video cable as a suitable substitute.

i. Surround Speaker Placement/Wire Connections: With a 5.0 or 5.1 setup, the surround speakers are considered "side" surrounds and should be connected to the speaker posts labeled "Surround" and ideally be placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and within 90-110 degrees from the main listening position (ie. to the "sides" of the main listening position and NOT the rear). When you add a 2nd set of surrounds in a 7.0 or 7.1 setup, or "rear" surrounds, they should be connected to the "Surr Back/Amp Assign" speaker posts and also ideally placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and about 3' directly behind the main listening position. See the Dolby Digital website here for more information. Note: If you only have a 5.0/5.1 setup and the surround speakers are already wired in the rear, then you must still connect those speakers to the "side" SURROUND speaker posts as this is the proper setup for a 5.0/5.1 setup. If you want to connect Front Heights or Front B speakers, you would also connect these speakers to the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts as well (except with the 3313CI or X4000) and set the AMP ASSIGN setting accordingly.

j. Tower Speakers w/built in subwoofer: When using this type of speaker (eg. Def Tech) and no external sub, connect the LFE cable from the AVR sub preout to a "Y" splitter and then to each sub. After running Audyssey Setup, you will still want to set the front mains to SMALL (regardless of what the mfr's speaker manual recommends) as there are 8x (MultEQ XT) and 64x (MultEQ) more Audyssey sub filters than speaker filters. This configuration will also then allow you to adjust the sub channel volume to suit your preference. Note with XT32, there are an equivalent number of speaker and sub control points, so without a dedicated sub in the setup, you can go either way with either a LARGE or SMALL setting.

Set the AVR to Standby and unplug it for 10 minutes. Then plug back in and turn on again. You may need to do this several times.

If using an iPhone or HTPC, try cycling it OFF/ON/OFF/ON while it's connected to the network.

Close/Open iTunes a few times.

Power cycle the router, wireless bridge, or Powerline adapters OFF/ON/OFF/ON.

If your router has a "multicast" option, try setting it to YES.

Cycle DHCP OFF/ON/OFF/ON.

Assign the AVR with a static IP address of its own. Turn off DHCP and select an IP address out of the normal range (1-100, eg. 192.168.1.101 ) and then leave the subnet address that's there. Give it a few minutes after you type it in and you should see the icon pop up on your device.

If using a Verizon Actiontec router .... on the router, go to the Advanced tab (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP Proxy menu and disable "IGMP Proxy" which should resolve the issue. On newer Actiontec routers, if you don't see the IGMP setting, but do see a "Routing" setting, then select Routing/Routing Protocols/IGMP and disable "IGMP Proxy" there. Another setting which has been shown to work is to enable the setting just above the setting on the main Advanced menu. The issue here generally only presents when the AVR is wired directly to the Actiontec router and the iDevice is connected wirelessly. Note however, that if streaming IPTV, disabling this proxy will also disable the IPTV connection, so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and place an ethernet switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network.

Regardless of the type router being used, if there is a "Disable IGMP Proxy" setting that is checked, try unchecking it and see if that resolves the issue. Otherwise, try toggling the "IGMP Proxy" setting ON/OFF/ON.

b. “Airplay Speaker Not Available”:This issue may be a result of not turning OFF the NET/USB source on the AVR (as opposed to just changing inputs). When you are finished with the Airplay audio, press/hold the remote ENTER button. Another solution is to uncheck the Airplay symbol on the iPhone/iPad (putting it on the iphone/iPad speaker and thus breaking the handshake). This issue has also known to present when changing the "Video - Audio Display - Audio" from the factory default of "30s" to "Always", so change it back to "30s".

c. AVR randomly changes to other sources: This may indicate a defective HDMI board. If you have Network Standby/IP Control set to ON, try setting it to OFF as this has resolved the issue for some owners. The final option would be to reset the microprocessor as listed in your Owner's manual and if still no joy, then give Denon a call to have it repaired.

d. AVR shuts down at higher volumes: A good rule of thumb is to not raise the master volume above 0db (relative) or 82 (absolute) as it may result in clipping/distortion from the speakers. You can set the "Volume Limit" setting to 0db to ensure this doesn't happen. If the AVR is shutting down at volumes lower than 0db (eg. -10db) then it is most likely the result of a loose speaker wire from one post on the back of the AVR touching another post so verify all speaker connections are clean. Pull the AVR out of the cabinet or rack if you have to in order to visually check the rear panel as more than one owner has learned a cursory look with a flash light may not be good enough to see the single wire strand that is causing the problem.

e. AVR switches to TV source when first turned ON: This occurs because you have the HDMI-CEC/ARC feature on your TV set to ON as well as HDMI Control on the AVR set to ON. There are several work-arounds to prevent this from happening depending on whether you:

want to pass audio from the TV back to the AVR:

Only set ARC to ON when you want to actually use that feature, or

Connect an optical cable from the TV to the AVR and don't use the ARC feature which will result in the same level of audio quality;

Or, don't want to pass audio back to the AVR but do want to use the HDMI Control feature to turn the TV ON/OFF with the AVR:

Use the Hide Sources feature (except 1513/E200) to delete/hide the TV/TV Audio source, or

If using a universal/programmable remote, insert a long delay (eg. 10 secs) after the AVR is turned ON, and then program the remote to select the actual source device you want to use.

f. Cannot see networked Denon on my computer/laptop: Try doing the following: Go to "control panel"..."my computer"... "my network places"..."show icons for networked upnp devices." If using a Verizon Actiontec router .... on the router, go to Advanced (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP Proxy menu and disable IGMP Proxy which should resolve the issue. Note however, that if streaming IPTV, disabling this proxy will also disable the IPTV connection, so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and place an Ethernet switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network.

g. Center Channel dialog too weak watching TV: Adjust the Dynamic EQ "Reference Offset" setting from 0 to 10db. You can also try increasing the center channel volume by adjusting the Center Dialogue setting. Setting Dynamic Volume to ON(Evening/Medium) will also help to improve lower level dialogue. And lastly, another option is to use the "Multi CH Stereo" mode which will add the dialog to the surround speakers bringing it closer to your main listening position.

h. "Connection failed. Check the device": This error occurs with the networking models when the AVR is unable to connect to the home internet router/modem. Place the AVR in Standby and unplug for a few minutes. Reset the router or connect directly to the router if connecting wirelessly. You also may want to consider replacing the router if it is more than several years old with one that is capable of handling higher bandwidth. If you are using an Apple device, make sure that "Home Sharing" is turned ON (as it may have been turned OFF by updating the firmware/iOS). If you use a NETGEAR router, try disabling the UPnP mode. If the SSID of your router contains a "space", rename the router without the space.

i. Green screen on TV: This is usually the result of either a bad HDMI cable or HDMI handshake issue with the TV. Try replacing the HDMI cables with "High Speed" (1080p) cables. Also try the HDMI Handshake resolution tips listed in item (k) below. If after doing the suggested tips, you are still seeing a green screen, give Denon a call as there may be an issue with the AVR's HDMI board.

j. HD Channel (DD 5.1) in Stereo: Sometimes when a TV station indicates the HD show is in DD 5.1, they will only broadcast a stereo signal but do it over a 5.1 audio track with blank channels so although the front panel display will say Dolby Digital you will only hear audio from your front L/R speakers. And because it is detected as DD 5.1, you cannot use a simulation mode (eg. DD PLII) to simulate 5.1 audio. Note also that not all HD channels are broadcast using DD 5.1 audio and even those that are advertised as DD 5.1, the station may only broadcast stereo 2.0.

k. HDMI Handshake Issues (audio/video dropouts): Handshake issues will most often present as "audio dropouts" or sometimes video display issues. Ensure the source device having the issue has the latest firmware installed and has been reset (ie. powered down, unplugged for a few minutes, then powered back ON again). For a more detailed HDMI reset try the following procedure ....

HDMI HDCP reset

With all devices powered on, remove the two HDMI cables at both ends from the source device to the AVR and from the AVR to the TV.

Power off all devices and disconnect power cables to all devices.

Wait 10-15 minutes.

Reconnect HDMI and power cables to all devices.

Power on the devices in this order ... TV, wait a few secs, AVR, wait a few secs, and then source device (although this is the generally recommended order, in some instances, you may have better luck powering on the AVR first and then the TV, then the source last ... bottom line if it's still not working, try a different power on sequence).

If the issue only involves the cable/sat box, HDMI handshake issues with cable/sat boxes are quite common (with any brand of AVR) and are usually always the fault of the cable/sat box not being designed to be connected to an HDMI repeater (ie. AVR) which is why they work without issue connected directly to the TV. Give your cable/sat box provider a call to see if there is a separate firmware update that can be applied to the box to resolve the issue although note that in some cases, a future firmware update to the cable/sat box may very well cause an HDMI handshake issue as well, so your best option to avoid the issue now (or in the future) is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV and also connect an optical cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR for surround audio. If you don't have an optical cable available, and your cable/sat box has a coax digital "orange" output, you can also use a coax digital cable (note: a "yellow" composite video RCA cable is a suitable substitute) and connect it to the SAT/CBL coax digital input on the AVR (ie. right next to the optical jack). Note that with this configuration (ie. HDMI straight to TV) you will lose the GUI/status menu for the cable/sat box, but you retain the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only with the AVR in Standby (eg. news, sports, wife, kids). Another option, if your AVR features a component video input is to connect both a component video cable and an optical (or digital coax) cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR noting that although you gain the GUI/status menu feature, you will lose the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only. You may also want to try upgrading to a different model cable/sat box.

Other possible solutions:

Try inserting an HDMI switch in between the AVR and the TV.

Ensure there is proper ventilation around the AVR (at least 3-4" above the unit) and if enclosed in a cabinet, use a PC fan to exhaust the heated air out the back of the cabinet

HDMI performance can also vary between the different HDMI input jacks due to quirks of circuit board design so be sure to try each of the other HDMI inputs as one may work better than another

With the 1913 and higher XX13 models, A400, X2000 and higher models, if you are having a video issue, try setting the "Resolution" setting to the resolution of the TV(eg. 1080p) rather than using the "Auto" setting.

l. HTPC won't pass audio/video: HTPC connections can be "iffy" at best. If you are having problems trying to connect your HTPC to the AVR, ensure the HDMI port on the HTPC is selected for audio/video output and that the latest firmware is installed on the HTPC video card or try a different video card if one is available. Try each of the HDMI inputs on the AVR (especially the one closest to the HDMI Monitor Out jack) as well as ensuring the HTPC is set to a standard TV resolution rather than the default resolution of the HTPC's display. If using a 6' HDMI cable, try using a longer HDMI cable (12'+) as this has been known to work in some instances. The issue likely involves incorrect EDID information being passed to the HTPC video card from jhe AVR. Refer to this post and this post both of which discuss an EDID Override procedure. Sometimes simply placing an HDMI switch/splitter between the HTPC and the AVR will work. If you are having problems using Windows Media Player then try using TVersity. If you are having problems playing .flac files, try using ffdshow. Sometimes connecting a Gefen HDMI Detective between the HTPC and the AVR has been known to resolve the EDID issues. The HDMI Detective also works well with DVI TV's that are having EDID issues. If you are trying to connect to a Panasonic plasma, and getting the 10 red blinking light on the Panny, check out this post for several solutions.

NVIDIA video card owners: Try the following: Bring up the NVIDIA control panel. For display options, select the AVR (not the HTPC display). AVR->Adjust desktop color settings->Apply the following enhancements->Content type reported to the display->Full-screen video (vice the default of AUTO).

If the HTPC is having issues reconnecting after coming out of "sleep" mode, then refer to this ATI solution or this NVIDIA solution for more info to resolve the issue.

Another option is to set the “Video Mode" setting to either "MOVIE" or "GAME" vice "AUTO."

m. Intermittent HDMI audio/video: Other than the possibility of an HDMI handshake, try connecting the HDMI cable to each of the other inputs on the AVR to determine if one HDMI jack works better for you with that input (previous year's models have shown that HDMI1 and HDMI2 react differently than the other inputs). Also try all the HDMI inputs on your TV as well as ensuring there is a tight, secure connection at both ends of the HDMI cable as sometimes the cable can just be loose. Note that just because the HDMI cable works when connected directly to the TV, doesn't necessarily mean it will work when connected to the AVR. When in doubt, try another HDMI cable that is confirmed to work with the AVR. You may also want to try inserting an HDMI switch between the AVR and the TV.

n. No audio from single speaker: If there is no audio coming from a single speaker, try swapping the speaker with another speaker to ensure it works. If it works, it's not the speaker. Place it back in its’ original location. Unhook the speaker wire at the AVR posts and connect it to a AA battery (+/+ and then tap the - to the -). If you hear static at the speaker, then there is no short in the wire itself and the issue is with the AVR channel. Try resetting the microprocessor as noted in post #5 to see if that resolves the issue. If not, time to call Denon or your local authorized repair facility.

o. No Video on AVR front panel display: If you suddenly find no video being displayed on the front panel display, check to see that the PURE button on the remote wasn't pressed and changed the surround mode to PURE DIRECT which turns off the front panel display. Also check to make sure all your cable connections are securely inserted into their jacks as kids, cats, and cleaning folks have a habit of getting to the back panels and can accidently loosen the connection.

p. Projector - no video displayed: If you are running an HDMI cable from the AVR to a projector that is longer than 20' and it won't pass 1080p video but will pass 720p, then the signal is too weak. Test this by using a shorter cable to the PJ. HDMI generally only works to about 15'-20' without issues, although some owners have indicated with a Monoprice 50' HDMI cable they have no issues. Monoprice also now sells “active” HDMI cables. . If replacing the cable is not possible, you'll likely want to try a powered HDMI extender. Check Monoprice as there are several models offered. For those of you using HDMI--> CAT 5/6 converters, and having video display issues, you may want to try using this HDMI voltage enhancer.

r. Speaker volume change won't stick: When you make individual speaker/sub volume changes, the changes are global and will apply to all inputs unless you use a Quick Select for that particular input. After making the channel volume change, make sure to re-memorize the Quick Select button by pressing/holding the button for a few seconds until MEMORIZE is displayed.

s. Subwoofer not working: If there is no audio coming from the sub, it could be the sub is dead, the sub's power cord isn't plugged in and the sub powered ON, the sub coax digital cable is bad, there is an issue with the AVR sub preout, or the AVR's speaker settings are incorrect. First make sure the sub is plugged in and powered ON. Remove the cable from the AVR sub preout jack and rub your finger over the connector tip. You should hear some static from the sub. If not, replace the cable with another cable (use a "yellow" composite video cable to test with) and try again. If still no noise from the sub, then you may have a busted sub. Otherwise if there is noise from the sub, the issue is with the AVR. Make sure that all speakers are set to SMALL (Manual Setup as well as 2CH Direct/Stereo custom settings if your model has this feature) with no lower than 80hz crossovers which will then pass all audio below 80hz to the sub. If you have your front speakers set to LARGE and the sub set to LFE, then although the sub will play the low bass in the 0.1 (LFE) channel during DD/DTS 5.1 movies, it will not play the low bass in stereo (2.0) music unless you change the sub setting to LFE+Main, although the issue with no bass during music is alleviated if the front mains are set to SMALL w/80hz crossovers as is suggested after running Audyssey Setup.

t. Surround mode changes: You change the surround mode for SD channels from stereo to DD PLII - Cinema but it changes back to stereo the next time you turn on the AVR. The most common cause for this is that you are using a Quick Select button to select the source and didn't re-memorize the new surround setting to the Quick Select by pressing/holding the QS button for 3-4 seconds after making the change. Otherwise, the Personal Memory Plus feature of the AVR will remember the setting and use that same setting the next time that source signal is received.

u. Unresolved Issues: If you are experiencing an issue with your AVR that is not listed in post #4 of either the 2012 or 2013 Denon AVR threads, and for which you cannot get a resolution either by (a) reviewing the information in this thread, (b) unplugging the AVR for a few minutes, (c) resetting the source device, (d) ensuring the source device has the firmware updated (if possible), (e) ensuring the AVR has it's firmware updated (if a networking model), (f) resetting the microprocessor using the procedure in your Owner’s manual, or (g) posting the issue in this thread, then call Denon CSR at 800-497-8921 and report the issue. If you have not reported it to Denon yourself personally, don't assume that Denon is aware of the issue. If the CSR response is "I've never heard of your issue before," ask the CSR if they can test it out on one of their units there and call you back. If they don't comply, go to Denon's website here, review their FAQ and if still no resolution, then register, and submit your issue with the AVR as well as the response provided by the Denon CSR via the "Ask A Question" tab. Regardless of how you submit your question, if you receive a response from Denon that resolves your issue, please post Denon's response here in the thread so others might learn from it as well.

v. Volume drops randomly from AT&T U-verse box: Setting Audyssey Dynamic Vol to OFF for the AT&T U-Verse source input should resolve this issue, otherwise you can bypass the AVR with HDMI from the box to the TV and optical from the box to the AVR.

w. White sparkles on TV: If you see white sparkles (ie. snow) displayed on the HDTV when the source is connected via HDMI, this may be a sign the HDMI cable is defective. Before replacing the cable; however, try powering on your equipment in this order: TV, AVR, source device and see if that resolves the issue. If not, you can find inexpensive High Speed (1080p) or Standard (720p/1080i) replacement cables at forum sponsor Monoprice. If it's happening with your Blu Ray player only, try setting Deep Color Output to OFF. Some LG BDP's output in Deep Color and don't have a setting to turn it OFF. If you are having issues with it, you may want to consider changing to another brand of BDP.

x. Why do my small speakers get set to LARGE?: The AVR will set any speaker to LARGE if it detects it can handle frequencies < 50hz in your room (regardless of what they are rated for on paper). If there is no sub in your setup, the front mains must default to LARGE, otherwise if there is a sub, then manually set the speaker to SMALL with at least a 60hz or 80hz crossover. For more information on bass management and the LARGE/SMALL settings refer to this article.

y. Why "Multi Ch In" and not Dolby TrueHD/DTS MA HD?: This is because your Blu Ray player is set to "PCM" and so it is decoding/uncompressing the audio to PCM. If you want the AVR to do it (won't matter audio quality wise which one decodes it) so you can see the compressed audio track on the AVR's front panel display then set the Blu Ray player to "bitstream" with either the Secondary Audio or BD Audio Mix set to OFF.

z. Why only "STEREO" or "PLII" and not DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA?: This is because you likely had your Blu Ray player or PS3 connected directly to your TV (prior to adding the AVR) which could only receive a stereo signal. Reset the BDP/PS3 while connected to the AVR so it will pass a multi-channel signal (also see above para (x)). For the PS3, press/hold the Power ON button longer than usual until you hear a series of beeps which will reconfigure it to the AVR. Refer to your BDP or game box owner's manuals on how to reset them to pass multi-channel audio.

z1. Wii only displays in 4:3 aspect: If you have a 1713 or lower model (ie. no video card), there is no ASPECT setting, so regardless of what you have the Wii set to, it will only display to 16:9 if you change your TV setting from "AUTO" to "Fullscreen" (or whatever the setting is to expand 4:3 content to 16:9). Note that any other picture display/format changes must also be made using the TV as there are no video display setting changes on the 1513/1613/1713 and E200/E300/X1000 models.

z2. WIN 7/8 PC shows up as "Not Authorized": On the AVR, set DHCP to OFF, then put in a manual address for the router and set DHCP back to ON. Also check Control Panel --> Network and Internet --> View Network Computers and Devices --> Denon AVR-XXXX .... change setting from "Blocked" to "Allowed."

z3. Windows Media Player (WMP 11/12) audio files won't play from PC via wireless network: If you have an extremely large media library which includes artwork with the files and some of the files are not playing on the AVR, try using MediaMonkey to strip/hide the artwork from the AVR. First when adding the library to MediaMonkey, you have to go to tools\\options\\library and uncheck “scan file directory for artwork”. After the transfer you still have the artwork for every single song embedded in the tag. You can easily remove that by hitting the right button over the picture and after choosing “remove image” also check the option “remove image from all the tracks in the album”. Doing so should then allow you to play the album wirelessly to the AVR. Removing the artwork can be done with the FREE version, although review the website for the benefits of using the Gold version if additional capabilities are needed.

a. 2-CH Amp: The 1713, “CI”, and "X" models each have Zone 2 pre-outs (the 3313CI/X4000 also have Zone 3 pre-outs) which can be used to connect a red/white RCA cable to an external amp if you want to run a 7.1 setup in the main zone plus Zone 2 and/or Zone 3 speakers, otherwise, if you only want to run a 5.1 setup, you can use the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts to power the Zone 2 speakers (7.1 models only). You can generally find used 2CH amps on Craigslist for ~$50 or you can buy this one or this one new. You can also use another AVR as well by connecting the RCA cable to one of the 2nd AVR's stereo analog inputs and connecting the Zone 2 speakers to the FL/FR speaker posts on the Zone 2 AVR.

2012 Models: No 2012 model can pass HDMI audio to Zone 2 (except 3313CI using the Zone 2 (HDMI) monitor out jack). The 2012 networking models will only pass Airplay, Pandora, Spotify, internet radio, USB, and external “analog” sources to Zone 2, but cannot pass HDMI or other “external” digital audio sources connected to the AVR to Zone 2. This limitation is common to the vast majority (98%) of all AVRs on the market today. It applies whether you're using the powered Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts or the Zone 2 pre-out jacks to an external amp. So for example, if you want to connect an Apple TV and have the audio play in the main zone and Zone 2, in addition to the HDMI cable you would also have to connect an optical cable to pass audio to Zone 2 using an optical --> analog converter.

2013 Models: Depending on the model, the new 2013 Zone 2 E/X models have up to two ways to pass HDMI audio to Zone 2. The E400 and all "X" models feature an "All Zone Stereo" feature that can pass the same stereo HDMI audio playing in the main zone to the Zone 2 Amp Assign speaker posts or Zone 2 pre-outs. Additionally the X3000/X4000 models are able to pass the same or an independent HDMI1-6 (rear panel only) audio source to the Zone 2 (HDMI) monitor out jack (note that when the same HDMI source is selected for both main and Zone 2, the main zone will be down mixed to the lowest common denominator of the two TVs connected to the monitor outputs even with Zone 2 set to OFF such that if the Zone 2 TV can only process a stereo 2.0 signal, the main zone will be down mixed to stereo as well). The X3000/X4000 are also able to pass an independent HDMI, optical, or coax digital PCM 2.0 signal to the Zone 2 speaker posts or Zone 2 pre-outs such that another source can be selected in the main zone.

A work around if you want to pass ANY source (HDMI, digital, analog) to another room using a 7.1 2012 model is to use the "Amp Assign - Front B" setting with the understanding that the Front B speakers can only play the same source as is playing on the Front A speakers and the volume of the Front B speakers will be controlled by the volume of the Front A speakers. The 2012 "CI" models have separate 2CH STEREO settings, so if you prefer not to use the STEREO mode in the main zone, you can setup a "custom" STEREO setting using the Front B speakers only (ie. Front B speakers set to LARGE and no subwoofer playing) to get audio only in the room with the Front B speakers whenever you use the remote to change to STEREO mode. If you want an independent source and volume control for Zone 2 (other than Airplay - see Networking - Airplay), you will have to use the "Amp Assign - Zone 2" setting.

c. Whole House Audio: If you have a 7.1 Zone 2 model (1913 or higher/X2000 or higher) and want to send the "same" audio to more than just one zone/room, you can connect a multi zone impedance matching speaker selector (eg. 4 zone speaker selector) to the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts. If adding more than 2 additional rooms; however, you will want to consider an AVR model that has Zone 2 pre-outs so that a separate 2CH amp can run the whole house speakers. You would then connect the speaker selector between the speakers and the external amp. For more information on whole house audio setups, review this website.

d. Wireless Headphones: One advantage of having a model with Zone 2 pre-outs (ie. “CI” or "X" model), is that you can connect a set of analog wireless headphones (eg. Sennheiser) and listen to music elsewhere in the house while someone is watching a movie or playing a game in the main zone (noting the Zone 2 limitations listed above).

Disclaimer: All information posted above is believed to be accurate. If you find that to not be the case, please PM me with the corrected information to include links which may no longer work. Also if you have any other 3rd party product recommendations please PM with that information as well.

Known Issues relating to the 2013 Denon AVR-E200/E300/E400/X1000/X2000/X3000/X4000 models

This post will be used to list any known issues being discussed in this thread or identified by Denon as well as their resolution (if any). If you are experiencing any issues, ensure the unit has the latest firmware update installed (if a networking model).

1. All Zones Power ON - When using a universal remote (eg. Harmony) to power on the multi zone models, all zones will be powered on (ie. main, Zone2, Zone3). A few work arounds include "teaching" the universal remote the discrete power on sequence for each zone from the Denon remote, select an individual source button which will also power on the AVR as well, or simply set the Zones 2/3 "Power On Volume" (p. 194 OM) to either "Mute" or some low volume level (eg. 40 or -40db). Note this can also occur when using the Denon remote, so if you power OFF the AVR and the front panel says "Main Zone OFF" but the unit still remains powered ON, that means you have one or both of the other zones still powered on as well and must turn them OFF to power off the AVR. With the X4000 remote you can also set the remote to only affect changes in the main zone per post #2790.

2. SAVE/LOAD procedure - Due to the use of browsers other than Internet Explorer for the SAVE/LOAD feature possibly being unstable, Denon removed their use in the Denon "X" series models; however, if you prefer to give them a try, forum member enricoclaudio reported that you can use either Firefox or Safari by entering the following URL into either browser window....http://192.168.0.236/SETUP/OTHERS/f_others.asp replacing the "192.168.0.236" in the IP address with your own AVR's IP address.

Using Internet Explorer
Note that if you are using Internet Explorer 10 (or other browser) and do not immediately see the SAVE/LOAD setting below the General button (as noted in the image below), after selecting the Setup Menu from the top menu, per forum members Ace Deprave/Sean Spamilton, try either selecting the Compatibility View icon (broken square) in the URL address bar on your laptop or go to Tools - Compatibility View Settings and add the AVR's IP address and you should see the SAVE/LOAD ...

Using Google Chrome
If you prefer to use Chrome, you can follow the instructions listed in this post ----> Post #2775.

3. Upscale to 4k - If a source device is capable of outputting or upscaling to 4k but is set to pass a lower resolution (eg. "native"), the AVR will not upscale the video, rather simply pass it through as is. In these instances, the source device must be set to upscale to 4k.

4. SiriusXM logon issue - Forum member rstambo noted that if you are having problems logging in to SiriusXM with an existing member password, try changing your password through a different device and then log back in to the AVR.

5. Power on to MUTE - Forum member tanquen noted that when setting the Power On Level setting to MUTE the unit will power at 0 rather than with the last volume level prior to going to Standby in Mute.

6. HDMI Standby Pass Through - YMMV, but one thing that I've learned with my new DirecTV HR-44 DVR is that if I power on the TV and DVR first (with the AVR's Standby Pass Through feature set to the mfr default of CBL/SAT) and the DVR set to Dolby Digital - "ON", the AVR will switch to DD PLII mode in order to pass a stereo signal to the Panny TV which is unable to receive a DD 5.1 signal. But after doing so, when I later power on the AVR, the AVR remains at the DD PLII mode, so in order for the AVR to receive the DD 5.1 signal from the DVR, I must first power on the AVR, and then power on the TV and DVR .... so if you're having similar issues, try changing the power on sequence of your devices to resolve the issue.

7. Cannot select other Surround Modes- If you simply press and release either the MOVIE, MUSIC, or GAME buttons on the remote, only the surround mode that is currently selected will appear. In order to see the "other" various surround modes available as well, you will need to PRESS/HOLD either the MOVIE, MUSIC, or GAME buttons (depending on which you want to use).

8. Settings lost with power outage - If power is lost to the unit (whether ON or in Standby) due to a sudden power outage to your home, the unit may lose any settings you have changed from the original mfr default settings, although the Audyssey calibration should still remain in tact. Note that simply unplugging the power cable to place the unit in storage or if away on vacation or to do a soft reset, the unit should retain its settings for at least 1-2 weeks.

9. Loss of center channel audio - In some instances a TV station may choose to broadcast 2CH audio over a 5.1 audio track which would result in no audio to the center channel, although the AVR will believe it's receiving a 5.1 audio track so you would not be able to use a simulation mode to create the center channel. This is not an issue with the AVR, rather the TV station itself. You can confirm there is no issue with the AVR by simply changing to another TV channel.

10. Cannot use banana plugs on "E" series models - Although the "E" series models are not designed to take banana plugs in the traditional sense, you can use "Rocket Fish" banana plugs where the speaker wire would normally be placed.

11. Audio issues with a BD/DVD - Check another disc to ensure the issue isn't related to that particular disc. Also ensure the firmware on the BD/DVD player is current.

12. Main zone video drops a few secs when Zone 2 is powered off on X3000/X4000 - This is a result of the Zone 2 (HDMI) monitor out and regardless of whether or not a monitor is connected to it, the main zone must renegotiate the HDMI handshake. The work around would be to not power off Zone 2 until the main zone is powered off or if using the X4000 with a 5.1 setup and you only want to pass audio to the other room, use Zone 3 instead as it is audio only by setting AMP ASSIGN to "5.1 + Zone 3".

13. Center channel distortion playing DD+ audio from Netflix - Netflix made a revision to their DD+ encoder fall 2013 which is causing either distortion or total dropout of audio from the center speaker on multiple brands of AVRs to include Denon. Denon released a firmware update Feb/March 2014 to resolve this issue. If unable to install the update, as a work around, in your Netflix settings, select STEREO and use the DD PLII surround mode to simulate 5.1 audio.

14. X4000 shuts down when initially powered on: A few X4000 owners have noted this occurred within the first week with no inputs or speakers connected to the unit which is an indication of a defective unit and should be exchanged or sent in for repair.

15. X4000 randomly displays no video or after being on for awhile powers off in protection mode: A few X4000 owners have noted this occurred on an infrequent basis. The issue is resolved by unplugging the unit for a few minutes.

16. AVR freezes and cannot be controlled by either the remote or front panel buttons: If this occurs, do a "soft reset" by unplugging the unit for 10 minutes which should resolve the issue with no lose in settings.

17. HDMI Video related issues: If the source has no video related issues when connected directly to the TV but does when connected to AVR, often times replacing the cables with High Speed cables from forum sponsors Monoprice or Blue Jeans Cables will resolve the issue. Although if the issue involves the Blu Ray Player, setting Deep Color Output to OFF on the Blu Ray player can sometimes resolve the issue with that source.

18. Sirius/XM server disconnect: Some Sirius/XM subscribers have noted an issue with connecting to the Sirius/XM servers after the most recent Netflix firmware update. Apparently Sirius/XM made some recent changes that are causing this issue. Denon is aware of the problem and is expected to release a firmware update to resolve it (no ETA).

19. Network GUI does not display: A few owners have had this issue which can be resolved by either replacing the unit or trying the below procedure which worked for forum member GoodMan:

Starting with the unit already powered up and (any) NETWORK source selected;
a. Verify from the unit's front panel display that the source is indeed the network,
and the monitor device (TV) is not showing the network GUI.
b. Imagine a line at the back panel just above where the hdmi connectors are that extends across the unit from left to right side.
c. Repeatly exert some moderate finger pressure on the unit's back panel along the imaginary line while watching the output video device until the network GUI displays.

If still no joy, try loosening the screws at the back that attaches the cover to the back panel to give it more "give", then repeat the above process.

20. Master volume maximum is limited to -6db/74: When using an iDevice to stream audio to the AVR using Airplay, the maximum volume will be limited. This is an Airplay limitation apparently but can be worked around by streaming the audio to an Apple TV or Airport Express that is connected to the AVR. This limitation also applies when using the Denon Remote app.

21. Main zone speakers play when headphones connected: An X4000 owner has noted when connecting a set of headphones to the front headphone jack, the main zone speakers continue to play. This issue apparently only affects a small number of units. If noticed, the unit should be sent in for repair or replace.

22. Flickr does not work: Denon is expected to release a firmware update to resolve this issue.

23. Netflix DD+ audio distortion: Although the firmware update noted in item 13 above resolved the center channel distortion, after installing this firmware update, some owners are reporting "clicks" and "beeps" artifacts in other speakers now. Denon is reportedly working on another firmware update to resolve this issue.

24. Audio lip sync issues: If the audio is ahead of the video, try using the Setup - Audio - Audio Delay (0ms-200ms). If the video is ahead of the audio, try setting Setup - Video - HDMI Video - Auto Lip Sync to OFF. If still no joy, try setting Setup - HDMI Video - Video Conversion to OFF, noting that in doing so you will lose the Master Volume display on the TV as well as the GUI will no longer overlay on the source video, but rather on a black screen.

How do I reset the microprocessor or do a network reset on my 2013 Denon AVR-E200/E300/E400/X1000/X2000/X3000/X4000?
When the AVR is acting up or doing something strange, the first thing to try is a "soft reset" (ie. set the AVR to Standby and unplug the power cord for about 10 minutes, then plug back in the power cord and turn ON). Doing this should result in no loss of settings nor will you have to run Audyssey again. If this doesn't resolve the issue, then you'll need to reset the microprocessor. You'll also want to reset the microprocessor before doing anything else if you purchased the AVR as an "open box" or demo/used/refurb unit to ensure all settings are returned to their original factory defaults. Although the "X" models feature the Web Control (SAVE/LOAD) that allows the config file (including the Audyssey setup) to be saved to a PC that can then the be loaded after the reset to restore all previous settings (as all settings will be wiped out and require you to run Audyssey Setup again otherwise), E300 and E400 owners can gain access to these features as well (see note below). The reset instructions are listed in your owner's manual as shown below ...

Microprocessor Reset

E200 - p. 58
E300 - p. 128
E400 - p. 149

1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Press ON/STANDBY while simultaneously pressing the "Source Select <" and "Source Select >" (leftmost buttons just under the front panel display)
3 - Once the display starts flashing at intervals of about 1 second, release the two buttons (hold for at least 4-5 seconds).

1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Press ON/STANDBY while simultaneously pressing (X1000/2000/3000: "TUNER PRESET CH +" and "TUNER PRESET CH -" (leftmost buttons just under the front panel display)) or (X4000: "INFO" and "BACK" (under front panel flap)).
3 - Once the display starts flashing at intervals of about 1 second, release the two buttons (hold for at least 4-5 seconds).

** If in step 3 the display does not flash at intervals of about 1 second, start over from step 1.

** NOTES:
(1) Prior to resetting the microprocessor for the "X" models, you can SAVE the config/settings (to include Audyssey settings) to a PC file using the Web Control feature listed on the pages below. This process will take about 15 minutes to complete.

X1000 - p. 107
X2000 - p. 113
X3000 - p. 118
X4000 - p. 132

(2) If the SAVE procedure is not completing successfully using either Internet Explorer (PC) or Safari (Mac), try using Firefox instead.

How to access the SAVE/LOAD feature using the E300 or E400

Enter your unit's IP address (eg. 192.168.100.19) into the PC's web browser which should display the Web Control screen and the SAVE/LOAD settings. If not, then enter the following additional information after the IP address. Replace the example IP address below with your AVR's IP address ....:

Web Control: 192.168.100.19/MainZone/index.html

SAVE/LOAD: 192.168.100.19/Setup_Index.asp

NETWORK RESET

Although not listed in the Owner's manual, a "Network reset" can be done using the below listed procedure on the E300 and higher models which will not only reset the network card but will also do a microprocessor reset in the process and return all settings to their factory defaults.

1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Simultaneously press/hold the E300: "Tuner Preset Ch +" and "Dimmer"; E400/X1000/X2000/X3000 : "Zone 2 Source" and "Dimmer"; X4000: UP/DOWN arrow buttons on the front panel and then press the ON/STANDBY button on the front panel.
3 - Once the display starts flashing at intervals of about 1 second, release the two buttons (but hold for at least 4-5 seconds).

** If in step 3 the display does not flash at intervals of about 1 second, start over from step 1.

(1) Denon does not send out any kind of notification that a firmware update is available for the non-networking models (ie. E200). If you are experiencing any issues, review post #4 to see if it is listed there. Regardless, if your issue cannot be resolved from responses to your question in this thread, give Denon a call (800-497-8921) to determine your next course of action.

(2) Firmware updates for the E200 will require the unit being either dropped off at or shipped (at owner's expense) to a Denon authorized repair facility that is able to install updates to the E200. The PanurgyOEM facility in NJ is able to repair/install firmware to any model. Note that in past years, the non-networking models generally do not get any firmware updates unless there is a major issue, while past year's networking models generally have gotten about 6-10 updates over the first year or two after being released (mostly to improve the network connectivity).

(3) Firmware updates for the network models (ie. E300 and higher) can be installed by the owner via an internet connection to the Denon servers. Although it's not necessary to update your unit if you are not experiencing any problems, it's generally a good idea to keep it updated so that if there are any problems with the update the unit will still be covered under warranty. The update process generally doesn't take more than 30 minutes once the download begins and also generally does not erase any settings, although it's always a good idea to SAVE the settings config.dat file using the Web Control feature prior to doing the update just in case. Note that if the update process is stuck on "Authenticating", ensure a source other than NET/USB is selected and just let it continue for up to a few hours and it should eventually begin the update process (although note that Denon's servers have been known to crash the first day of release due to the overload, so you may want to wait a few days before trying again). Some have noted that rather than selecting the "Check for Update", instead simply selecting the "Start Update" will avoid the "Authenticating" issue. One XX12 owner found that disconnecting ALL sources to the AVR enabled the unit to connect to the Denon servers and update the firmware when the update process had previously been unsuccessful for almost a year. Other tips if having problems with the update include setting "Network Standby/IP Control/Network" to OFF, cycling the DHCP setting on the AVR, or using a static IP address.

During the update, the AVR will go into Standby mode, but will continue to update status on the front panel display. If the update seems to be hung up (ie. goes beyond 1 hour) ... power the AVR to Standby, unplug it for a few minutes and power back on and attempt the update again. If the update fails to load, check the network environment (ie. reset the router, replace the router with a more current/robust model, or ideally wire directly to the router if connecting wirelessly) If still not having any luck with the update, perform a Network Reset as shown in post #5 above. You may also want to consider purchasing a long (100'+) Cat5/6 cable for network updates only for a higher probability of a successful install. Also note, that once the update has completed, there is no way of returning to an earlier version of firmware.

Networking model owners will be notified automatically when there is a firmware update when the AVR is turned ON as long as the Notification Update setting is set to ON (factory default). For more information refer to General - Firmware - Notifications -Update in your respective Owner's manual. To manually check for an update, refer to General - Firmware - Update - Check for Update in your manual.

(4) USB firmware update: If you have been unsuccessful with your attempt to install a firmware update via the network ....(TBD).

(5) Denon will sometimes make "minor" changes to the firmware with each new manufacturing production run, so it's not unusual to see a higher firmware version number on a newer unit of the same model. For the non-networking models, this doesn't mean an older unit needs to be returned to get the firmware updated, rather it only needs to be updated (if a firmware update is available) if you are experiencing a problem that resetting the microprocessor will not resolve. The year/month the unit was mfr'd can be determined by looking at the first 3 digits of the serial number (eg. 302xxxxxxxx would be Feb 2013) which can be found on the original box as well as on the back panel of the AVR.

(6) What is my unit's current firmware version? The current firmware version on the E300 and higher models can be determined from the AVR's menu: General --> Information --> Firmware Version.

(7) There are two firmware notification settings, both of which default to "ON" from the factory..... "Update" (fixes) and "Upgrade" (new feature). When either an "update" or "upgrade" is available the networking models will display a message alerting you to this "update" or "upgrade" every time you turn on the AVR. If you prefer not to install the update/upgrade, then simply change the appropriate setting at General --> Firmware --> Notifications ---> Update/Upgrade to OFF (factory default is ON) and it will go away.
This area will be used to track the changelog of the firmware updates for the network models (E300 and higher).

X4000
1. 6/4/2013
- Usage Data default changed to OFF.
- Use of Denon Remote app becomes abnormal
- When Airplay has been selected using the remote app and another network source is then selected, app doesn't change from Airplay
- When both Zone2 and HDMI Pass Through are OFF, and unit is restarted, when Menu selected GUI is not displayed
- Popup information description of Russion is wrong
- When TV format is PAL, the aspect ratio is incorrect.
- When not setting Usage Data, the popup display of restart was added to the specification
2. 7/18/2013
- VIewing photos vis USB interface, the 4:3 image is stretched in width severely
- When Usage Data is set to OFF, the PopUp display of restart was added to the specification
- Setup Assistant starts by connecting the HDMI cable
- After the firmware is update, the device is not found via the iOS application
- Spelling mistakes on Web GUI
3. 2/19/2014
- Crestron update
- Sirius XM API2.0
- When DTS-HD MA 96k audio is streamed, there is noise or no output
- Noise from DD+ stream from Netflix
- WMA 11/12 files not playing
- Noise from WAV file in NAS (Twonky Server 7) via remote app
- MSLEFT and MSRIGHT of the AMX command
- Noise between tracks of FLAC file
- No communication with Buffalo LInkStation
- No sound from SW in PURE DIRECT
- DIalogue Enhancer set by Menu is not memorized
- When connected Server shuts down in the Resume play of Last Station of iRadio, the browsing of iRadio cannot be done
4. 2/18/2015
- Sometimes cannot turn on the power of the unit via C4 or/and Application. (No response at "PW?" command of AMX.)
- Sometimes cannot control Pandora in multi zone via Crestron

X3000
1. 6/4/2013
- See upate for the X4000 for same date
2. 7/18/2013
- See update for the X4000 for same date
3. 2/19/2014
- See update for the X4000 for same date
4. 2/18/2015
- See update for the X4000 for same date

X2000
1. 7/18/2013
- See update for the X4000 for same date
2. 11/20/2013
- When the customer plays the source of "DTS-HD Master Audio/96k PBR (PeakBitRate) stream", the noise occurs or the sound is not output.
- The noise is output when the customer plays a WAV file in the NAS (Twonky Server 7) via remote App.
- The product corresponded to "MSLEFT" and "MSRIGHT" of the AMX command.
3. 03/09/2014
- See update for the X1000 on 2/26/2014
4. 2/18/2015
- See update for the X4000 for same date

X1000
1. 7/18/2013
- The specification of the update message screen was changed
- When the source is returned to iPod after iPod is removed with sources other than iPod, "No Connection" is not display
- The volume is no correctly corrected by the mode change from the All Zone Stereo mode
- Update Package screen title on page 2 is not displayed
- Remote App operation may become abnormal
- Setup Assistant starts by connecting the HDMI cable
- After firmware update, the unit is not found via the iOS device
- Spelling mistakes on Web GUI
2. 12/8/2013
- The product corresponded to SiriusXM API2.0.
- When the customer plays the source of "DTS-HD Master Audio/96k PBR (PeakBitRate) stream", the noise occurs or the sound is not output.
- The noise is output when the customer plays a WAV file in the NAS (Twonky Server 7) via remote App.
- The product corresponded to "MSLEFT" and "MSRIGHT" of the AMX command.
3. 02/26/2014
- When DTS-HD MA 96k audio is streamed, there is noise or no output
- Noise from DD+ stream from Netflix
- WMA 11/12 files not playing
- Noise from WAV file in NAS (Twonky Server 7) via remote app
- MSLEFT and MSRIGHT of the AMX command
- Noise between tracks of FLAC file
- No communication with Buffalo LInkStation
4. 2/18/2015
- See update for the X4000 for same date

E400
1. 3/30/2013
- The product corresponded to Gapless Playback from Mobile App.
- The Picture View setting cannot be stored.
- AirPlay cannot be executed while executing SlideShow.
- AirPlay cannot be executed from Function other than Network.
2. 7/18/2013
- See update for the X4000 for same date
3. 03/09/2014
- See update for the X1000 on 2/26/2014

E300
1. 3/30/2013
- See update for the E400 for same date.
2. 7/18/2013
- See update for X1000 for same date
3. 12/8/2013
- See update for the X1000 for same date
4. 02/26/2014
- See update for the X1000 for same date

** NOTE: The changelog information above is provided as is, without any further explanation and only when I am able to obtain it. If the information listed above doesn't make sense, please don't ask for clarification, as I have none.

Denon has unveiled three Home Cinema Receivers from the brand new X Series. (as seen from Denon UK News)
02 April, 2013

Denon's AVR-X2000, AVR-X1000 and AVR-500 are taken from the next level of 3D AV Receivers. These latest models deliver on the Denon promise to provide consumers with new levels of user friendliness, cutting edge performance benefits and the perfect home entertainment solutions for every budget and lifestyle need.

The AVR-X500 entry level model is ideal for home cinema beginners while the AVR-X2000 and AVR-X1000 inherit the most comprehensive network feature set ever available in a Denon. These X series AVRs are the perfect answer to individual entertainment needs at every price class and will be available in black from May.

WRITTEN BY PHILW ON APRIL 5, 2013. POSTED IN NEWS
Denon have announced their latest AVR”X” series to replace the outgoing AVR series. At the moment we don’t have prices but as soon as we do we shall be listing them. The Denon AVR-X500 offers discrete amplification with a power of 5 x 120 watts into 6 ohms (75 watts into 8 ohms) and as standard an output for a subwoofer. Obviously it also manages all HD audio formats like DTS-HD, TrueHD and Prologic II, DTS Neo: 6 Stereo MultiCh.

However, the downfall of the AVRX500 is that it offers no acoustic correction via microphone, no USB port and no video processing. It has 4 HDMI 1.4a inputs (one on the front) and 1 output supports ARC, CEC, Deep Color, 3D 1080/24p and Ultra HD (Passthrough). In contrast, no MHL, nor InstaPrevue or DSD via HDMI. The connections are very limited for the rest as it only has 2 inputs and 1 output for composite video, 1 Optical and 1 Coaxial, 2 stereo RCA inputs and FM / AM antennas, plus 6.35 mm headphone output on the front.

The AVR-X1000 is a step up on the AVRX500 and features a profile setting for smaller rooms, the Denon AVR-X1000 has everything that most people would want and offers most of the features of the higher end units. It is compatible with AirPlay and DLNA and offers access to vTuner Internet radio, the on demand music service Spotify and Flickr photos online. It is capable of playing MP3, WMA, AAC, ALAC, FLAC 192 kHz / 24-bit USB and streaming from a NAS, PC or MAC (UPnP). There is also a USB port to connect and play music from iDevices although there is no composite to display photos or videos. A Party Mode function to play the same music in different rooms on a device compatible with the Party Mode is available. Also an application is available called simply “Denon Remote” lets you take control of the amp on a smartphone or tablet iOS or Android.

Are the "X" models just the European analogues of the USA based "E-series" models?

See this site, helpful. Yes they seem to be along those lines, but showing some differences on these entry line models..

Example

Quote:

Finally, the AVR-X2000 is a 7.1 receiver with an output equivalent to 150W into 4 ohms each. The characteristics of the model X1000 adds Analog Devices ADV8003 video processor capable of operating an upscaling up to 4K resolution.

Has seven inputs (one more than E400) HDMI (1 in front) and one output, two optical inputs, four stereo RCA inputs and one output for driving a second zone (not present on E400), two composite video inputs, a component input, an Ethernet port, as well as an input 3.5mm jack and a USB port on the front panel. Available from end of April.

In case anyone is interested in IP-control (home automation) of the new E/X-series, the latest remote control specs document IP-control for the X1000/E300 and X2000/E400.
The spec is very similar to previous generations with only a few and minor changes.

It appears as if the E300/E400 also supports IP-control, even though the US spec explicitly list it as not supported?
This corresponds to IP-control also being a hidden feature of previous networked enabled non-CI models (1613, 1713, 1913)..

As background:
IP-Control provides an extensive set of command/events to control virtually any setting of the AVR-series via 3rd-party software over a network connection.
Originally, the remote control capability was available via the RS232 port of the higher end AVR's. The same protocol later became available via LAN.
Although in some countries this is listed as exclusive feature of the CI series, it is in fact available on all networked models.

Denon has published a comprehensive update of its A / V Receiver of the X-series on the market. The X in the model name stands for, according to Denon Xcellent Xcellent performance and usability. Denon pays special attention to a revised user-friendliness and added his X models with a complete suite of Audyssey technologies. That will make the hearts of many home theater enthusiasts faster. And the right to wait, because the new receiver with a lot of activity and promise first-class home theater experience. All units are designed for the HD era and are also 3D-capable. Together they have also Denon's quite minimalist design, which is especially noticeable in the private home theater or living room very well.

Noteworthy is the fact that all receivers will only be available in black. The current top models of the AVR-X2000 to the AVR-X4000 stand out against the minor 5.1-models AVR-X 500 and AVR-X1000 from higher performance of seven 150 watts and support for the Ultra HD or 4k resolution. Furthermore, many of the audio specialists Audyssey technologies are integrated with those of the sound can be perfected. Dynamic Volume makes the volume control in real time as Dynamic EQ optimized surround sound properties at lower volume levels, and so as a sort of loudness function, as they are known in stereo amplifiers, can be seen. The more significant 7.1-receivers have the "MultEQ XT" technology for automatic speaker calibration on up to eight listening positions - the special microphone is naturally included.

Other highlights are certainly seven HDMI inputs with 3D and 4K support. In can be analog or digital video sources scale up to four times the full HD resolution. To the friends of Apple devices was thought. On the front side there is a USB port that can be connected with an iPod, iPhone, and co. The AVR-X2000, for example, supporting, among other things, the audio streaming via AirPlay or DLNA. Using the free Denon Remote App for iOS and Android, the receiver comfortably respectively via smartphones Tablet PCs are controlled. The Internet service Spotify, last.fm, vTuner and Flickr complete the streaming options.

The receiver follow a new naming convention and solve from the old series.

The Denon AVR-3313 was discontinued by Denon in March 2013 and we've completely run out of stock now so we can't supply it to you - we are sorry. However, the replacement model is the Denon AVR-X4000 - it's due out in June and massively improves on this older model.

per hifi-forum.de

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think since the models x3000 and x4000 probably only official. will be presented at the High End in Munich in May (which is why they are probably also not yet hompeage on the Denon), we will have to wait until then, as far as more details, pictures or even a B instructions.

Link to German PDF for AVR-X2000 (aka AVR-2113 replacement) which explains the wattage specifications. see this link

Observed the AVR-X3000* (sucessor to AVR-2313) and AVR-X4000* (sucessor to AVR-3313) information have been removed from the SG Akustik. Hi Fi shop by Denon probably. Too late we know some of the details!

You have to decide whether you hold out while the next model which looks like it has MultiEQ XT32, 9.2 and a lot of updating over the AVR-3313 is available. Because these models all come from Denon's modern facility in China there's bound to be some reasonable quantity that you can get fairly quickly from one of the dealers.

Perhaps Craig Peer (AV Science Sales) can let you know when they are available.

Isn't there a new HDMI spec due out any time (I seem to recall it will pass 4K at 60Hz...or something like that)?
Will any of the receivers this year support this new HDMI spec (by any brand)? I'd love to upgrade, but this seems like a big deal if someone (like me) keeps a receiver for 4-6 years. I'd hate to get a 4K tv in 2-3 years and find out I need to upgrade my receiver since it doesn't support 4K in at 60Hz.

Isn't there a new HDMI spec due out any time (I seem to recall it will pass 4K at 60Hz...or something like that)?
Will any of the receivers this year support this new HDMI spec (by any brand)? I'd love to upgrade, but this seems like a big deal if someone (like me) keeps a receiver for 4-6 years. I'd hate to get a 4K tv in 2-3 years and find out I need to upgrade my receiver since it doesn't support 4K in at 60Hz.

Not this year.
Right now you have 4k streaming or 4kx2k which can be done over HDMI 1.4. The bulk of the receivers has moved to HDMI 1.4 for 3D, but with 4K you have increased natural depth of field. So the real question is knowing the increased cost of processing, bandwidth, storage, is anything greater then 4k useful or needed such as watching 3D 4K?