POWER STEERING FOR SOLID-AXLE CHEVYS

My hat's off to those of you who've opted to retain the stock solid-axle configuration in your early Chevys. You're better men than I am--or, at the very least, a lot more motivated. Personally, building a pair of arms that look like Popeye's by way of steering wheel exertion isn't my idea of the perfect exercise program (I can think of plenty of better ways to burn calories, thank you). But I have a sneaking suspicion that most of you who've decided to stay the course and keep that old suspension and steering rather than upgrading to IFS of some sort have done so because of the expense and/or skills needed to perform the upgrade. If this is the case and you really don't enjoy those parking lot aerobics like you used to, take heart--Classic Performance Products (CPP) offers an affordable alternative!

CPP's Power Steering Conversion Kits and associated components can transform your solid axle '47-59 Chevy into a mild-mannered, easy steering pleasure to drive for a lot less cash than you'd think. The basic kit is designed to allow you to use a late-model ('69-87) Chevy 2WD pickup power steering box in place of the OE manual box and is perfect for use with either aftermarket or late-model GM tilt steering columns.

The basic, part number 4759PSK, kit consists of a replacement steering arm, an adjustable drag link, and steering-box mounting spacers and tab, and sells, at the time of writing this, for around $130. With this basic kit you'll need to supply your own power steering box, 6 3/4-inch-long pitman arm, and pump, hoses, and brackets. If you don't have a handy donor for these items and you don't feel like spending a precious Saturday morning at the parts store or bone yard, you can order up high-quality pumps and boxes (as well as the recommended heavy-duty replacement tie rod and ends, etc.) from CCP along with the basic kit. Be forewarned though, those running lowered frontends will need CPP's PSPA-R reversed pitman arm.

The InstallEven though we opted to look over the shoulder of Chad Vogele of Barry White's Street Rod Repair Company while he did the actual work, the installation process is really straightforward and requires only a tiny bit of welding (the top steering-box mounting tab). The balance of the installation can be done using the standard tools all us truck guys more than likely own in spades.

Basically, the first order of business is to disassemble and remove the original steering box/column combo and replace it with either a good used GM column, or preferably a high-quality aftermarket unit like the ididit tilt column and Borgeson shaft and joints used here. Another option is to modify the original column and utilizing RB's Obsolete Automotive's new Save-a-Column adapter (more on that in an upcoming issue) and a new CPP rag joint. Next is the removal of the stock drag link, steering arm, shocks, and shock mounts.

The original steering arm was mounted to the wheel backing plate below the kingpin and was home to both the drag link and tie rod/center link. In this case we opted to go for CPP's heavy-duty tie rod and ends so the original steering arm was modified to accept the new more reliable CPP tie rod ends (see photos). Unlike the original, the new power steering box mounts outside of the framerail. It uses, in part, the same mounting holes as the original, though it does sit higher on the rail than stock. CPP includes a triangular mounting tab in the kit that's welded to the top of the rail and accepts the final mounting bolt.

Once the new box is in position the new pitman arm, new steering arm (mounted to the backing plate above the kingpin, this time), and the modified original steering arm (mounted in its original position) can be installed along with the new adjustable drag link. The original lower shock mounts are repositioned behind the axle, as are the uppers. The new box is then attached to the column with a pair of steering joints and a new intermediate shaft. (As the new box is outboard of the framerail, a hole has to be made in the inner fender panel so the shaft can cross over the top of the framerail.)

The following photos will show the process in a bit more detail. It's really a straightforward conversion and one that'll greatly increase your driving pleasure. So check it out, and give some serious thought--especially after your next parking lot workout.