2007 Mustang v6 Wrench warning light

It "could" be many things, which is why you want something to read those trouble-codes in the first place.

It is very unlikely that after changing the TB that you get this issue and it is unrelated. Have you done anything else recently? Wasn't overheating right? Just limp home without any other symptoms on the dash or otherwise aside from the check engine light? If you do a search you can find many entries for "limp home mustang" and the like. Nearly all of which point to either the intake(tb, iat sensor, throttle position sensor) or exhaust controls(evap, o2 sensors).

The only other thing to check would be the BEC related fuses (any that say "Engine #"), as it's possible that you blew one, think fuse 47 (Engine #1, use the owners manual to read/find BEC fuse section)is o2 sensor related that would cause a limp home condition.

In any case, just keep the receipt, diagnose this, then return the generic OBD-II reader and buy a good tuner, then you can read ODB-II codes and get a noticeable performance gain all at once. Custom tune from somewhere shipped to you like http://americanmuscle.com would be best.

In fact, It;s been more than a Months so more than 100 miles that I am driving with the throttle body ( las thing that I changed ) But thing who can be weird is that while I was driving after a complete stop, my car started to make a Hudge noise I cannot even describe it to you and stopped maybe 10 second later ( which is a lot)

its the Only thing that I noticed who was weird. I dunno where this noise came from it was under the Hood that is for sure but after where ... I have no clue. I know that my mustang started to male a little bit a noise ( pretty strong) while i was turning ( when i did a complete stop) but that's it ...

And after this noise stopped, I kept going on my road until the fas station which was fortunatly cloase to my housse ... I finished the road In limp home mode .

In that case you might be f'ed. "Huge noises" are not usually a good thing. Where it simply goes into limp mode caused by something TB or emissions related, it should have been fairly smooth other than maybe some whiplash. Sure this isn't fail-safe?

What I know is that My car when I open it is super 'hard' I mean it looks like to be between the stall and staying 'awake' if i can say that like that ( i have a manual) and when I turn it off it super 'violent' Like it litteraly stop super stict ... Not a normale shut down at all

Both terms are used interchangeably quite a bit, but "fail-safe" I think limits the amount of fuel, and will actually shut the engine off completely when it gets hot enough, even kills the AC functionality in ours to help keep it from overheating as fast.
Limp home in most modern vehicles as I understand it, just cuts off half the cylinders (in this case 4), and limits the rpms in ours, as it's sensing an issue, but not an imminently catastrophic one (you hope).

First thing I'd do personally after checking the fuses is go over the TB install instructions word for word, preferably backwards, as in putting the OEM TB back in, and put together correctly.

We keep emphasizing this as the BBK TB's tend to do this rather frequently on their own, and if you're not careful, you could have f'ed up the swap by over-torquing and the like when you put the OEM back on.

The engine noise is not all the time actually she did it no more than 2 or 3 times but last time , she really did it super stong and loud ... A noise like if something was making my mustang braking ... Like if something was stuck somewhere and was trying to still work. and after this 5-10 sce the noise totally disapeared

Tomorrow either way I'm gonna buy a ODB II at Auto parts and Will let you know what is My code ... Hopefully nothing super bad

So I have 2 codes P2111 and P2104
I already put backback on my stock throttle body because i had put on a BBK one. the codes are still showing up which is msking me think i need to try and clean my TPS and if that doesnt work then replace it?
tell me what you think

Again, here is the link for the instructions including the TROUBLESHOOTING for the BBK install on the last page of the pdf. Use it. This will tell you what the voltage levels should be, if they're in spec, the TPS is fine. May need slight adjustment if you inadvertently fiddled with it previously, which it will walk you through:http://1.cdn.lib.americanmuscle.com/...bbkins1763.pdf

Just use the search and do all the cleaning and re-seating the spring that fixed it for most others, after you've gone through the above, then likely buy a new TPS. But verify it is in fact the issue first before throwing money/parts at it.

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