Liz Biro review: The Eagle on Mass Ave

The Eagle screams Americana, from its ever-present logo to home cooking and the blues and country rock soundtrack

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Here from Cincinnati, The Eagle opened Dec. 15 on Mass Ave. where Front Page Sports Bar & Grill used to be, 310 Massachusetts Ave. The place is known for fried chicken.(Photo: Liz Biro/The Star)Buy Photo

Story Highlights

The new Mass Ave restaurant from the owners of Bakersfield is known for fried chicken. Legit homecooking meets a jamming Americana vibe on the corner of Mass Ave. and Delaware Street in Downtown Indianapolis.

The Eagle is where Front Page Sports Bar & Grill used to be.

The Eagle opened Dec. 15. Dinner service starts at 4 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Lunch hours and daily service are coming soon. Call (317) 929-1799 or visit facebook.com/TheEagleMassAve.

Family-style fried chicken

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A whole fried chicken served family style, hot pepper honey on the side ($18) at The Eagle, 310 Massachusetts Ave. in Downtown Indianapolis.(Photo: Liz Biro/The Star)

A whole free-range, all-natural, hormone-free chicken from Amish farms in Ohio is marinated in a lemony, herby brine before hitting a not-too-heavy peppery breading ($18 for a whole chicken). Eight-piece dark ($16), half chicken ($9) and quarter chicken, white or dark, ($6) are other options. The chicken is super tender. The crispy coating is kind; it won't scar the roof of your mouth. Be forewarned: the chicken is spicy, as are many dishes here. Piquant-as-hot-sauce honey that comes in a jar to drizzle on the bird multiplies the burn.

Cold beer to cool that burn

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A chalice of beer instead of a the famous PBR boot! The Eagle is from the folks who brought Bakersfield to Mass Ave. The Eagle is where Front Page Sports Bar & Grill used to be, practically next door to Bakersfield.(Photo: Liz Biro/The Star)

A chalice of beer instead of the famous PBR boot.The Eagle is from Thunderdome Restaurant Group, the company that brought Bakersfield to Mass Ave. The Eagle is practically next door to Bakersfield. Fifty-nine beers mark The Eagle’s list, lots of locals and regionals included. A few specialty cocktails, a heavily spiked iced tea among them, and some nice wines like Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc are other drink selections. The Eagle has a full bar, lots of televisions and has done a great job refurbishing what used to be Front Page Sports Bar & Grill's patio.

Pure Americana

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The Eagle screams Americana, from its ever-present logo to home cooking and blues and country rock soundtrack. Find it at 310 Massachusetts Ave. in Downtown Indianapolis.(Photo: Liz Biro/The Star)

The Eagle screams Americana, from its ever-present logo to home cooking and the blues and country rock soundtrack. The staff is fun, friendly and was on-point the Friday night I was there. Arrive early. By 6 p.m. that night, The Eagle had a 25-minute wait. When I went to the Cincinnati location this past summer, there was a 2- to 2½- hour wait on Saturday night. Fans love this brand.

On the side

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Spoonbread, more like a sweet cornbread, collards with plenty of bacon and macaroni and cheese are among side dishes at The Eagle, 310 Massachusetts Ave. in Downtown Indianapolis.(Photo: Liz Biro/The Star)

I've eaten a lot of bad collards outside my Southern home state of North Carolina. My dinner at The Eagle was not one of those times. Tender greens have just-right chew, lots of bacon and a nice spicy, tangy vinegar bite ($4). Corn kernels fleck spoon bread, more like sweet corn bread. The grainy cornmeal texture feels like home to me ($5). And that macaroni and cheese? A nice crush of cheddar flavor and buttery, crunchy contrasting garlic breadcrumbs on top ($5).

The scene

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Simple wood tables and chairs contrast modern lighting for an old melds with new feel at The Eagle. Call it "cozy cool," but hard surfaces at restaurants don't absorb much noise.(Photo: Liz Biro/IndyStar)

Country touches meet urban cool. Even if I wasn’t hungry, I’d hang out at The Eagle. Blues, Southern rock, lots of chatter, a communal table by the window fronting Mass Ave and enough televisions to catch a game compose the scene. If you want a quiet meal, arrive early.

The new standard for chicken sandwiches in Indianapolis. I was thinking this when the guy at the table next to me eating a chicken sandwich told his date, “This is the best chicken sandwich I’ve ever eaten.” A thick, tender chicken breast with a fiery, crunchy coating lands on a super fresh toasted roll that's easy to bite through ($9). Nothing squeezes out as you eat the sandwich also hosting slaw, spicy mayo, spicy sour pickles. It’s a tongue burner in a good way.

Alas, The Eagle doesn't serve dessert, but sweet tooths have a couple options. The snack list includes candied brown sugar bacon, a crackly, savory delight. Order it with the spoon bread, and eat of bite of each together. You'll thank me for the tip. I just ate the combo for breakfast this morning from the doggie bag I took home from The Eagle. Also consider the on-the-sweet-side cocktail named Fade to Black. It blends New Holland Beer Barrel Bourbon, vanilla simple syrup, St. Germain and New Holland oatmeal stout ($9).