Stay thematic with the distinctively Tumbarumba 2013 Even Keel Chardonnay ($78), or if the rain is lashing, send your waiter to the cocktail bar for a rum-based Stormriders ($19) using standout house-made ginger beer.

End with the deceptively simple Fresh Austral Figs ($15), dessert elevated to near perfection using Riesling syrup, white chocolate mousse and roasted white chocolate crumble. Service while not polished, is certainly well intentioned.