~ my life in sevilla

Category Archives: religion

I’ve only missed Corpus here four times in 24 years: once when I was in Granada, another time when I was in Lisbon, then London in 2015, and *that other time* when I was too sick on chemo to go out. Since my first ever Corpus I have followed the advice of my friend (and one of my first English students here) Agustín, who told me the best part of Corpus here is getting up super early and walking the rosemary and flower petal strewn procession route before the procession starts (and everything gets trampled underfoot).

This year we got an even earlier start than usual and invited new pal Elaine to join us. And bonus! We actually came across the guys who were strewing the rosemary (a first for me). Although as lovely as always, there were fewer decorated balconies than on previous years, and it was also sad not to have our usual post-walk coffee & toast at the Horno San Buenaventura (which closed all its brances this past year). But as usual, we left while the procession was in full swing, heading home before the HEAT became too much. Here are some pics (and one vid)…

I missed last year’s Corpus Christi in Sevilla because I was in London stuffing my face getting to know other Foodie Hub members and otherwise enjoying The City. And weirdly, I found myself missing it. I’ve only missed Corpus here thrice before: once when I was in Granada, another time when I was in Lisbon, and *that other time* when I was too sick on chemo to go out.

But I’ve always followed the advice of my friend (and one of my first English students here) Agustín, who told me the best part of Corpus here is getting up super early and walking the rosemary and flower petal strewn procession route before the procession starts (and everything gets trampled underfoot). This year – bonus! – I also happened to see the Cristo de la Cena (Last Supper) procession on its way to the Cathedral, where the paso is left at the Archbishop’s Palace until the end of the day’s ceremonies. I even got a short vid of it on Instagram…

Was out and about last night, since the threatened rain didn’t end up appearing. Though the threat of it had kept some of the processions from leaving home on time, rendering the printed programmes pretty much useless. As a result I didn’t see any processions, not wanting to hang about for an extra hour or so along the routes. But I got a few pics, including this one of people waiting for the late processions in the street, while contemplating the Great Power from above… 4G. 😉

Spotted these guys while on a tapas tour. They were transporting wooden crosses from a van parked in Plaza Santa Cruz to… wherever. Probably the Santa Cruz Church. These will be carried by some of the Nazarenos (others carry long candles) during the Semana Santa processions. There is so much preparation that goes into this crazy week (I like it, but it really is crazy) that I find my heart aching for everyone who is going to be devastated by the seriously rainy-stormy weather, forecasted to start Palm Sunday. Let’s hope things clear up! Because if it rains, nothing happens.

Things have been very quiet around here Semana Santa-wise. After months of scarcely any rainfall it’s pretty much been coming down non-stop since Palm Sunday. Tomorrow it looks like it may lift for about 24 hours before starting up again on Friday.

Above are some pics I took on Monday evening. It was quite sad to see everything deserted and the odd nazareno – like that young boy – making his disconsolate way home after his procession was cancelled.

On the right are a couple of rogue nazarenos I saw yesterday, making their way over to their church. But about an hour later the skies really opened up. Me? I was all cosy at home in PJs watching a film on DVD with Peter and the cats, as I will be again this evening. But tomorrow I have a tapas tour – I don’t know what I was thinking! Oh right, about paying the rent 😉 …. but in fact I do love a challenge and so it should be an interesting night.

It’s actually been a few years since I’ve gone out following the processions and looking for the best vantage points. But I do love Semana Santa and the general upheaval and chaos. I don’t even mind the inconvenience of shops being closed or not being able to get out and about because of the crowds. I guess a part of me enjoys how this crazy week really shakes things up. And in spite of loving my “new” home I still miss hearing La Madrugá played below my bedroom balcony on Martes Santo… so glad now I got up to film that video as it was my last time.

Oh, and this is also the first time in my 19 years here that the orange blossom (azahar) has coincided with Semana Santa. It also seems to be lasting a bit longer this year. Heaven.

Went to an amazing photo exhibit today that really blew me away called “100 Photographs of Semana Santa That You Should See”. Photos from 1885 and up to almost present day. You can read more about it here…

Bet you don’t see this where you live! And as many times as I’ve seen it, including the guys above a couple of nights ago, I am always stopped in my tracks and, well, a little bit in awe. They are costaleros practicing for Semana Santa, when they will carry the statues of Jesus and the Virgin Mary on the backs of their necks throughout the processions. Here they are practicing with weights instead of statues while they perfect their moves because, as you can imagine, it’s quite difficult to manouevre these things, and taking corners is especially tricky. During the processions you never see the costaleros (other than those taking breaks and having beers at nearby bars) and I find it fascinating to see them at work like this.

I made sure to get up early and take in Corpus again this morning. I wish I could post the smell of the rosemary and the feel of the cool morning air.

And also how great this tasted afterwards! —>

Now it’s back to work. No rest for us freelancers, especially after being out all day yesterday with lunchtime and evening tapas tours and a class with Agustín in between. Quite a “full” day but now I’m way behind on my social media stuff.