Tag Archives: Bespoke

Gieves & Hawkes is coming across the pond and into our own backyard. That’s right! Over 200 years (243 to be exact) of Bespoke goodness is about to be on our shores. Not only is it one of the oldest Savile Row tailors, it is also tailor to the Royals!

The thing I really love about this company is that even though they are almost as old as the history of the Bespoked suit, they also have a very modern and contemporary approach (now thanks to their new CCO, Jason Basmajian), there is much less stuffiness here than one might expect.

Bergdorf Goodman will be the brand’s exclusive retailer (looks like a trip to New York.) They will offer off-the-rack suits, separates, outerwear and offer bespoke and made-to-measure services.

After having once worked for Ralph Lauren and now garnering a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nomination Antonio Azzuolo brings Bespoke, old world tailoring to a whole new height.

This seasons collection is based loosely on globe trotting which let him have a little bit more leeway on his fine tailored suiting.

Azzuolo is certainly known for being a Dandi’s best friend. His best cuts are tailor suited and which makes the fit impeccable. Outerwear and jackets are what this designer does best and he has a magnificent eye for style and glamour.

I love his youthful approach and his love of ceremonial styling. Construction is this man’s game and I am looking forward to playing along.

Internationally known tailor Richard James, known as the ‘modern face’ of Savile Row is now collaborating and creating luscious bespoke inspired ready to wear all over the place.

Not only has he dressed the biggest names in English society but Hollywood icons as well . And if that weren’t enough he is sharing his craft by being a teacher to the next generation of tailors and cutters (awww…).

These suits are a classic but modern interpretation of the traditional British suit (even with tennis shoes as styled above). Richard James creates clean tailoring and beautiful silhouettes. Though Richard started out with suits he has expanded into shirts, knitwear, outerwear, swimwear, accessories, and shoes. (Gotta love these shoes!)

Lets face it, when I think of Bespoke, British and Savile Row the next thing that pops into my mind is not SpongeBob but sure enough this Richard fella has the good sense to know a great character and actually teamed up with SquarePants to create a limited capsule collection. This jacket is made-to-order. I’m going online now!

Ah, the collar. So important and so oft over looked. When you buy a shirt you must keep in mind how you plan on wearing it. Will you be wearing it with a tie, bow-tie, open, with a suit or sports jacket? Are you trying to give off a business, formal, or casual look? And for the trendier among you, tie width and lapel width. All of those reasons are why choosing the right collar atop your shirt is so important, so let’s begin.

In choosing the correct collar for you, you must first consider the shape of your face. The collar provides the frame for both your shirt and your face. If it doesn’t compliment the shape of your face the overall look will not look as Dapper as planned. Strong jawlines should go for a larger proportioned collar. Round soft faces should steer clear of small and short collars.

There are two things to consider with every collar. The point, which includes the width of the collar at the front tip and the spread of the collar.

The Button Down – Comes in two types; The Oxford and the Hidden Button-down. Both are considered to be a less formal collar though the Hidden can be used in dressier occasions. This shirt is most suitable to be worn with Sports Jackets and Blazers.

The Straight-PointCollar – Fits most average size Dandi’s and has a much smaller gap between the collar points. It can be worn without a tie as well. Fit size for Dandi’s will usually land in the 14″ to 15 1/2″ range, but measure your neck to be sure and then buy a size 1/2 an inch bigger.

The Spread Collar – This collar gets dressier as the spread widens to accommodate tie knots from the most basic four-in-hand to the very powerful Windsor. This collar comes in many different spreads, point lengths, and collar heights. You will have to try them on and find the right one that frames your face the best.

The Rounded or Club Collar – Seen in many fashion magazines for the 2011 Summer dress shirts, it is a short rounded collar. This collar can lend itself to being a nice Bespoked Dandi touch with a tailored suit, tie and silk ‘kerchief.