21 replies so far

You wouldnt go wrong with the 72. 7.5 hp, should be. I have some fond memories of it. We had one in the shop I worked in and had a power feeder on it. It would rip stock full blast, wide open and not change pitch. $250? freakin steal. I would go for it if only to flip it. If you dont want it PM me the link. If you do then get a phase converter and run it like there is no tomorrow.

I also saw the same saw take the tip of my bosses thumb off. The saw didnt even notice.

7.5HP sounds great until you realize what’s required to run it. You aren’t going to find a VFD that size for less than a grand, and on top of that you would need at least a 50 amp circuit to run it. A phase converter might be less expensive, but you would still need that large circuit to run it.

In my area 3 phase machines always sell for pennies on the dollar because nobody wants to mess with it in a home shop, and businesses don’t want old used equipment. I think the OP is wise to steer clear.

That saw can be easily broken down for transport… two people should not have a problem getting into the back of a pickup truck, and a trailer would make it even easier. If it is a 7.5HP, a cheap static phase converter can be had for about $100 off e-bay, or a better one would be in the $200-$300 range (although that would reduce the motor power by about 1/3). A homemade RPC would be another option as well. If it’s got a 5hp motor, a VFD can be had for about $200 and you would get all sorts of extra benefits. Nice saw, with a Biesemeyer type fence – witch alone is worth the asking price.

[Points up]Yep. Buy it. Keep the fence. Flip the saw (if you must). Buy something to put the B-meyer on with the profit.

This saw could be European, with steam driven pony motor for the nuclear reactor turbine and I would still get it for $250. Ok, I would talk him down to $225 just for the sake of transparency here. But the steam driven pony motor / nuclear reactor driven saw would be mine.

I emailed the guy. Awaiting a reply. More I thought about it this Friday at work, the more I think the WoodWorking Gods are trying to tell me something since my past history is riddled with great deals. I just fear the physics of getting this into my Dodge 1500 pickup. Learned a lot when I took for granted what 500 lbs felt like when it took 2 hours to get my 15” Jet Planer in the pickup. So if he/she emails back, I might go for it and deal with VFD stuff afterwards. I am not worried about any re-wiring because I do have a 60amp subpanel (installed by little ‘ol me) and I know how to wire 220v and 110v 16/2, 14/2, 12/2, and 10/2.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

If you get it, remove the fence and the wings and crank the blade all the way down, put a piece of plywood in your truck and back the truck up close to it. Then tip the saw until the edge of the table rests on the truck tailgate. Then you and a friend can rotate the saw up onto the plywood (so it’s upside down) and in the truck bed. Then slide it and the plywood further forward in the truck and tie the saw down well. The table top and the motor are the heaviest parts, so it will ride in the truck much better upside down. When you get home, just reverse the process to unload it. Let the edge of the saw table act as a pivot on the truck tailgate so you don’t have to pick up the full weight of the saw. The whole process will go much smoother and a forklift won’t be necessary. I’ve moved several Unisaws and PMs this way and it has always worked out well.

If it’s a 3 hp 3 phase motor a solid state phase inverter is the best way to make it work in your shop. If 5 or 7.5 hp 3 phase you will be better off finding or making a rotary phase converter for it, but you will need a 10 or 15 hp 3 phase motor to make the phase converter from and one of these will be heavier than the saw, but will not be that expensive if you can find one. The solid state phase inverters get crazy expensive for larger than 3 hp.