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Most mornings the water was very glassy. Low clouds and certainly a bit more humid than your neck of the USA. I would go back again, but I think my wife is leaning towards more civilization and culture than wild things next year. That might mean cathedrals and a real need for a T/S lens...

All stacked. I did some research first, and apparently it is quite difficult to a get a long single exposure star trail in digital. I just set my camera to continuous shooting with a manual focus manual aperture fisheye lens on shutter priority 60 seconds, auto ISO, and rubber band the shutter button. Meanwhile I go to bed and let it take shots until the battery dies in about 6 hours. Then come back and get the card, and use a free star trail stitching program. Turns out star trails are dead simple, I award very few creativity points for them now that I know, unless there is something else to commend them.

I have a star trail experiment with a manually focused 12mm (the 12mm f/2.0) going on right now, will go to retrieve it in a few minutes.

Actually it may be even simpler.Recipe:
Shutter: 60 s (it's good to have an Olympus, most brands limit you to 30 s)
Aperture: f/4.0
ISO: 800, but set ISO to AUTO so it will keep up as things get brighter near dawn and include a colored sky plus foreground detail, with less noise. Or dusk.
Focus: With the infinity mark at the edge of depth of field for your aperture. Or on typical foreground, because out of focus stars are larger.
Shooting Mode: Continuous

Steps:
1. Aim camera up and north (for north star, or any direction) so as to include a bunch of sky and a good foreground. It helps to aim while it's still light, if you want to know what you're aiming at.
2. Use rubber band and pencil eraser or other object to keep shutter button down.
3. The first 60 s will be a waste because you'll still be jiggling the camera getting the rubber band correct. The next 60 s use a keychain light to light the foreground, because you can always ignore that shot if you don't like it, but you can't get it back if you don't try.
4. Go to bed.
5. Retrieve camera.
6. Open your favorite +/- 100 shots into this program: http://www.startrails.de/html/software.html
7. Click go.
8. Any further photoshop work you want to do. Done!

Difficulties:
1. Noise in foreground because it's difficult to get in camera "noise reduction" where it takes a photo of the back of the shutter, then subtracts bright spots.
2. My computer is too slow.
3. Hard to aim camera in dark.
4. Above stitching software is great, but not enough options for getting the frames you want in it.

Alternative recipe
Shutter: 5 min
Aperture: f/4.0
ISO: 200
The above would be better because you would have 20% fewer shots to handle later (plus less noise I assume), but Olympus cameras won't let you shoot with a 5 min shutter continuously. You'd need an add-on accessory for that.