“When I’m traveling, I maintain the same high tailoring standards in airports as I would if dining at La Grenouille. This, I’m happy to report, invariably impresses the flight attendants who greet me as I enter the cabin and (I’m also happy to report) earns me immediate attention when I request a first Martini and, on long flights, it induces them to promptly accede to my wish for an extra blanket and pillow.”