Hi All.. My 1GM10 is out and on the shop floor.. little or no compression.. Easiest thing to do is to drop it off at my local yanmar dealer and take my lumps.. But there must be another way, a cheaper way.. Any canucks do their own rebuild.. I understand that Yanmar parts are much more expensive in Canada.. Any advice or suggestions would be great..

The head mechanic at the club recently told me that the problem with the current generation of lightweight diesels is that they are like Bic lighters - difficult to rebuild economically, particularly if you place any value on your own time.

The other issue is parts availability (forget cost - ridiculous). The cycle of availability of even engines that should be long-service, such as Volvo marine engines, has been dramatically shortened. An engine in a club boat, installed 2005, has been end-of-lifed, so a parts search spanned the world. Make sure you can get what you might need, at a price you deem reasonable, before you commit.

My bro pulled a mid-80s Mitsubishi out of his boat last year and replaced with a new one (both from Vetus Marine). He was on the fence about having the old one rebuilt (by a diesel shop in Kingston -- he's in Belleville) but in the end the new engine made more sense (sailing season is short!). (The old one may still be for sale if you're interested -- I think I posted it here last year or so, not that you want another engine in need of a rebuild.) Boat show specials are the way to go. Come spring it's high season, and you may not see an engine for a few months...CheersChuck LanningNSC, Ottawa

Since this maybe its first rebuild, you may get away with a top overhaul(bad valves). The bottom overhaul is way more expensive, and rings wouldn't stop working just like that. You've probably burned a valve or two.

Torresen marine have a 1GM10 rebuild kit for $540.00.. They don't ship to Canada, but I can have it shipped to a friend in Maine and have him relay it me.. I have access to a cheap diesel mechanic ($30.00/hour).. I have not priced these parts in Canada, but I'm guessing that they're much more expensive..

It is not a total rebuild. Piston, but no crankshaft bushings. No crankshaft bearings. It changes rings and valves basically for over $540. I'm a transportation expert of sorts. Air and road, but I would never go that far in replacing parts. You could get away very well with two valves seated by hand, check the valve guides for slap, and a new head gasket. Clean off excess carbon and douse the rings with carbon cleaner.From Canada (Winnipeg) there is an on line boat engine parts dealer. Google that sentence, or order from Torrenson.Or you overheated it and only need a head gasket.Scott, being Scottish

Great news Kerry. Higher pressures will result, so I suggest adding "Seafoam" to all future oil changes to clean up the lower end, especially the rings. Some in the diesel fuel will clean out the injector pump as well.Happy sailing for ALL of this summer.Scott

Hey Scott.. added some Seafoam to oil and fuel.. On Saturday, motored for 45 min or so at 2700 to 3000 rpm, engine seemed to run good.. Last night, looked at the engine and found it covered in black dust (unburnt fuel).. Does this suggest I have a clogged or restricted exhaust elbow? Hole in the exhaust hose? Any other explanation?

Yes I noticed the exhaust carbon is flaky, and prevents caking up. Shows its working.You have the exhaust gases on the exterior of the engine block. Must be a poor exhaust manifold to engine connection. Gasket! Maybe you could use two, retorque the bolts, or a thin layer of muffler cement on the surfaces of the gasket. Reface flatter the exhaust bracket. Hole in the exhaust hose very likely.If you are at recommended strength in the crankcase, one school believes to run the engine for a max of 5 hours, then change the oil.Always in the fuel, does a lot of good.Scott

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