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LIQUID CRYSTAL HR FAQ'S

LIQUID CRYSTAL HR FAQ'S

PRINTER

Q: What is the main difference between the Liquid Crystal 10″ and the Liquid Crystal HR?

A: The main difference is the screen. The improved high-resolution screen has pixels more than two times smaller giving higher definition prints. The linear drive unit has also been upgraded to an all-in-one system allowing for more accurate and repeatable prints. Wi-Fi connectivity coupled with a touchscreen allows the Liquid Crystal HR to be untethered from a PC. Finally, the vat has been designed to be easier to use and longer lasting.

Q: Why do I need a vat film?

A: The film is the base of the vat and protects your screen. It needs replacing from time to time when it gets damaged or becomes affected after repeatedly being exposed to the curing polymer.

Q: How long will the vat film last?

A: Depending on the size and shape of objects you are printing; the film may need changing every 10 or so prints. The Liquid Crystal HR has a tighter vat film than the Liquid Crystal 10″ vat, and will not lose its tension as quickly and therefore can last longer. Change it when it is damaged or looks cloudy. In order to extend the use of the film, follow the instructions on how to clean after each print.

Q: How do I send my files to the printer?

A: Files are loaded onto the Liquid Crystal 10″ directly by tethering to your PC or by the Wi-Fi enabler. You can load files onto the Liquid Crystal HR in two ways; from a pc or USB. You can upload and send a .cws file to print from PrintFlow3d from your pc. You can also upload pre sliced files from a USB. See instructions on our support page for more information.

Q: How do I update the software on the printer?

A: The printer will automatically update when connected to the internet and restarted. Alternatively, the printer can be updated by going to ‘Settings’ and ‘Update’ on the touchscreen.

Q: How do I know how much resin to use for my print?

A: It is possible to calculate it exactly from the object volume; 1 cm3 = 1.2g of resin, but you will need an excess to allow the resin to recover the part. In practise, it’s easier just to over-fill and re-use the resin. Fill it a quarter of the way up the vat for most prints; for large ones, fill it half full.

Q: I have resin on the screen. What is the best way to clean it?

A: Remove all the liquid with absorbent paper, then carefully scrape solid lumps off with a flat non-serrated edge. You can scrape very carefully, at an acute angle, with a razor blade to chip off cured polymer, but plastic is safer. Do not use solvents.

Q: Can you make a part for me if I send you a file?

A: Yes, if you email us the file, we will advise the cost to make it.

Q: Do you have plans for better software?

A: Yes, we have software development underway now.

Q: Can I use your printer with a Mac computer?

A: No. Creation Workshop, the slicing engine cannot be used with a Mac unless it runs Windows.

Q: What is the best method of support generation?

A: We are currently creating a comprehensive guide for how to support every different type of object. Until that is ready please feel free to email us the stl file and we will support if for you and return it.

Q: Can I use an alternative software?

A: Some people have used alternative software, such as Nano DLP to create a pre sliced .zip file which can be put on the printer using a USB. We do not provide instructions on this.

Q: Do you have any anti-aliasing?

A: Creation Workshop has anti-aliasing. We advise trying about 1.5 for the Liquid Crystal 10″ and 10 for the Liquid Crystal HR. Make sure your pc has the power to cope with slicing if you run anti-aliasing at above 5. If you run at 10 on a PC without enough power, the slices may disappear.

Q: Why is there a protective film on the screen?

A: The protective film over the screen protects the LCD panel and the electronics below it from any resin leakage. When you get a new printer or a replacement screen pack you should remove the upper protective film before use. The film below it, which is stuck down to the top of the printer around its edges will stay in place.

RESINS

Q: What is the difference between Daylight and UV 3D resin?

A: Daylight resin can only be used in Liquid Crystal 3D printers; UV resin is designed for DLP or laser 3D printers that use the UV spectrum. The polymers are identical in performance; the main difference is just that Daylight resin uses photons at about 460nm to create free radicals to join the chains and UV uses 350 to 405nm photons. Daylight resin can never be completely clear.

Q: How do I store unused resin?

A: We recommend pouring the resin back from the vat into the bottle through a sieve to remove any solid parts.

Q: What shrinkage should I expect?

A: Our resins are optimised to shrink as little as possible. In Liquid Crystal printers, shrinkage is limited as liquid polymer surrounding the object can replenish any shrinkage that takes place almost entirely eliminating its effect. Hard resins will shrink by more than flexible, and our lowest is Low Shrink. In Laser or DLP printers the process is faster and there may not be time for the liquid to replenish the shrinkage, but our resins will be favourable in a comparison with competitor grades. We have produced Archimedes principal shrinkage data on all grades, please consult us if you want this information.

Q: Can I mix different resins in the VAT?

A: We do not advise mixing resins as they may have slightly different cure speeds, but in practice this is possible.

Q: Do you have castable resin?

A: Yes we offer an excellent castable resin in Daylight or UV resin that will create almost no ash and burn evenly.

Q: How can I dispose of the resin?

A: The resin is a skin irritant, wear gloves when in contact with it. Remove as much liquid from the platform and object as possible with paper. Waste paper can be left in sunlight for a few minutes to harden and then be disposed of. Place the platform in a washing-up bowl and clean the object. You can leave the washing bowl in sunlight for a few minutes to harden any resin and this can be disposed of as solid waste.

Q: The resin changes colour, is that normal?

A: It is normal in Daylight resin. It will have a certain colour when liquid, then change to the final colour once cured and post exposed. Make sure you shake the resin bottle before use.

Q: What is the product shelf life?

A: The product will last for 1 year when kept at room temperature and away from sunlight in original packaging.

Q: Will the UV resins work with my DLP or Laser printer?

A: UV uses 350 to 405nm photons. Choose our UV DLP or UV Laser according to which printer you have. You may need to adjust the cure time. Forums online may already have run tests on your printer and can provide detailed information. Contact us for information on UV resins at 355nm.

FINISHED PARTS

Q: Can I use daylight resin to bond 2 parts together?

A: Yes, if you bond them before either of your parts has been post exposed. Apply the resin to the join and then post expose the item (in a UV unit or in sunlight) for 10 minutes.

Q: Which type of glue is suitable for your resin when the product is printed?

A: Most commonly we use the same resin to bond parts- the bond is stronger if parts have not been post exposed, then post expose the entire part all together. We do use low viscosity low odour cyanoacrylate also or a 2-part epoxy.

Q: Are post exposed parts watertight?

A: Hard parts are watertight; soft and flexible ones are not. All polymers may absorb water after prolonged immersion.

Q: How stable are the parts over time?

A: Like all polymers cured with UV they will be eventually weakened by UV, but our polymers are tough and have a UV absorber to prevent light degradation. For maximum life, store the parts out of sunlight and in a dry, stable environment.

Q: How do I make the part less sticky?

A: Clean the part by spaying or immersing in IPA to achieve a dry surface quickly. Post expose under water immediately after you have washed it. Place container in bright sunlight for 60 minutes or in a UV unit for 30 minutes.

Q: My part has a bit missing where the supports were attached.

A: If the support is too wide and strong it will be difficult to break off. Reduce the width of the joining tip of the support or cut it off lower down and sand the stub off.

Q: Can I sand the final print?

A: Yes, once post exposed and dry, the print can be sanded.

Q: Can I paint the final print?

A: Yes, once post exposed and dry, the print can be painted.

Q: How dimensionally accurate are manufactured parts?

A: The Liquid Crystal 10″ will deliver accuracy of about +/- 150 um and the Liquid Crystal HR an accuracy of around +- 100 um.

Q: When does shrinkage occur?

A: We measure our shrinkage values by Archimedes principle (using density of resin against the change in density of the solid) and it occurs during the cure and after post-exposure. Shrinkage becomes a bigger problem for accuracy with larger printers but we do not see it as a significant problem with the Liquid Crystal printers.

Q: What is the long-term stability of the printed parts?

A: This would depend on environmental conditions and timescale. We do not have environmental stability data on our printed parts, but this is something of interest to us and we have ongoing tests.

Q: What temperatures do the printed parts tolerate?

A: Currently, the printed parts from most of our resins will crack if held at 250 – 300 C for long periods of time. Their heat deflection temperatures (HDT) are around 60 – 80 C, and so will deform if put under a load at temperatures higher than this. We are working on a high temperature resin, which currently has an HDT of 150 C but we are approving this and hoping to get up to 250 C.

PRINTER

Q: What is the main difference between the Liquid Crystal 10″ and the Liquid Crystal HR?

A: The main difference is the screen. The improved high-resolution screen has pixels more than two times smaller giving higher definition prints. The linear drive unit has also been upgraded to an all-in-one system allowing for more accurate and repeatable prints. Wi-Fi connectivity coupled with a touchscreen allows the Liquid Crystal HR to be untethered from a PC. Finally, the vat has been designed to be easier to use and longer lasting.

Q: Why do I need a vat film?

A: The film is the base of the vat and protects your screen. It needs replacing from time to time when it gets damaged or becomes affected after repeatedly being exposed to the curing polymer.

Q: How long will the vat film last?

A: Depending on the size and shape of objects you are printing; the film may need changing every 10 or so prints. The Liquid Crystal HR has a tighter vat film than the Liquid Crystal 10″ vat, and will not lose its tension as quickly and therefore can last longer. Change it when it is damaged or looks cloudy. In order to extend the use of the film, follow the instructions on how to clean after each print.

Q: How do I send my files to the printer?

A: Files are loaded onto the Liquid Crystal 10″ directly by tethering to your PC or by the Wi-Fi enabler. You can load files onto the Liquid Crystal HR in two ways; from a pc or USB. You can upload and send a .cws file to print from PrintFlow3d from your pc. You can also upload pre sliced files from a USB. See instructions on our support page for more information.

Q: How do I update the software on the printer?

A: The printer will automatically update when connected to the internet and restarted. Alternatively, the printer can be updated by going to ‘Settings’ and ‘Update’ on the touchscreen.

Q: How do I know how much resin to use for my print?

A: It is possible to calculate it exactly from the object volume; 1 cm3 = 1.2g of resin, but you will need an excess to allow the resin to recover the part. In practise, it’s easier just to over-fill and re-use the resin. Fill it a quarter of the way up the vat for most prints; for large ones, fill it half full.

Q: I have resin on the screen. What is the best way to clean it?

A: Remove all the liquid with absorbent paper, then carefully scrape solid lumps off with a flat non-serrated edge. You can scrape very carefully, at an acute angle, with a razor blade to chip off cured polymer, but plastic is safer. Do not use solvents.

Q: Can you make a part for me if I send you a file?

A: Yes, if you email us the file, we will advise the cost to make it.

Q: Do you have plans for better software?

A: Yes, we have software development underway now.

Q: Can I use your printer with a Mac computer?

A: No. Creation Workshop, the slicing engine cannot be used with a Mac unless it runs Windows.

Q: What is the best method of support generation?

A: We are currently creating a comprehensive guide for how to support every different type of object. Until that is ready please feel free to email us the stl file and we will support if for you and return it.

Q: Can I use an alternative software?

A: Some people have used alternative software, such as Nano DLP to create a pre sliced .zip file which can be put on the printer using a USB. We do not provide instructions on this.

Q: Do you have any anti-aliasing?

A: Creation Workshop has anti-aliasing. We advise trying about 1.5 for the Liquid Crystal 10″ and 10 for the Liquid Crystal HR. Make sure your pc has the power to cope with slicing if you run anti-aliasing at above 5. If you run at 10 on a PC without enough power, the slices may disappear.

Q: Why is there a protective film on the screen?

A: The protective film over the screen protects the LCD panel and the electronics below it from any resin leakage. When you get a new printer or a replacement screen pack you should remove the upper protective film before use. The film below it, which is stuck down to the top of the printer around its edges will stay in place.

RESINS

Q: What is the difference between Daylight and UV 3D resin?

A: Daylight resin can only be used in Liquid Crystal 3D printers; UV resin is designed for DLP or laser 3D printers that use the UV spectrum. The polymers are identical in performance; the main difference is just that Daylight resin uses photons at about 460nm to create free radicals to join the chains and UV uses 350 to 405nm photons. Daylight resin can never be completely clear.

Q: How do I store unused resin?

A: We recommend pouring the resin back from the vat into the bottle through a sieve to remove any solid parts.

Q: What shrinkage should I expect?

A: Our resins are optimised to shrink as little as possible. In Liquid Crystal printers, shrinkage is limited as liquid polymer surrounding the object can replenish any shrinkage that takes place almost entirely eliminating its effect. Hard resins will shrink by more than flexible, and our lowest is Low Shrink. In Laser or DLP printers the process is faster and there may not be time for the liquid to replenish the shrinkage, but our resins will be favourable in a comparison with competitor grades. We have produced Archimedes principal shrinkage data on all grades, please consult us if you want this information.

Q: Can I mix different resins in the VAT?

A: We do not advise mixing resins as they may have slightly different cure speeds, but in practice this is possible.

Q: Do you have castable resin?

A: Yes we offer an excellent castable resin in Daylight or UV resin that will create almost no ash and burn evenly.

Q: How can I dispose of the resin?

A: The resin is a skin irritant, wear gloves when in contact with it. Remove as much liquid from the platform and object as possible with paper. Waste paper can be left in sunlight for a few minutes to harden and then be disposed of. Place the platform in a washing-up bowl and clean the object. You can leave the washing bowl in sunlight for a few minutes to harden any resin and this can be disposed of as solid waste.

Q: The resin changes colour, is that normal?

A: It is normal in Daylight resin. It will have a certain colour when liquid, then change to the final colour once cured and post exposed. Make sure you shake the resin bottle before use.

Q: What is the product shelf life?

A: The product will last for 1 year when kept at room temperature and away from sunlight in original packaging.

Q: Will the UV resins work with my DLP or Laser printer?

A: UV uses 350 to 405nm photons. Choose our UV DLP or UV Laser according to which printer you have. You may need to adjust the cure time. Forums online may already have run tests on your printer and can provide detailed information. Contact us for information on UV resins at 355nm.

FINISHED PARTS

Q: Can I use daylight resin to bond 2 parts together?

A: Yes, if you bond them before either of your parts has been post exposed. Apply the resin to the join and then post expose the item (in a UV unit or in sunlight) for 10 minutes.

Q: Which type of glue is suitable for your resin when the product is printed?

A: Most commonly we use the same resin to bond parts- the bond is stronger if parts have not been post exposed, then post expose the entire part all together. We do use low viscosity low odour cyanoacrylate also or a 2-part epoxy.

Q: Are post exposed parts watertight?

A: Hard parts are watertight; soft and flexible ones are not. All polymers may absorb water after prolonged immersion.

Q: How stable are the parts over time?

A: Like all polymers cured with UV they will be eventually weakened by UV, but our polymers are tough and have a UV absorber to prevent light degradation. For maximum life, store the parts out of sunlight and in a dry, stable environment.

Q: How do I make the part less sticky?

A: Clean the part by spaying or immersing in IPA to achieve a dry surface quickly. Post expose under water immediately after you have washed it. Place container in bright sunlight for 60 minutes or in a UV unit for 30 minutes.

Q: My part has a bit missing where the supports were attached.

A: If the support is too wide and strong it will be difficult to break off. Reduce the width of the joining tip of the support or cut it off lower down and sand the stub off.

Q: Can I sand the final print?

A: Yes, once post exposed and dry, the print can be sanded.

Q: Can I paint the final print?

A: Yes, once post exposed and dry, the print can be painted.

Q: How dimensionally accurate are manufactured parts?

A: The Liquid Crystal 10″ will deliver accuracy of about +/- 150 um and the Liquid Crystal HR an accuracy of around +- 100 um.

Q: When does shrinkage occur?

A: We measure our shrinkage values by Archimedes principle (using density of resin against the change in density of the solid) and it occurs during the cure and after post-exposure. Shrinkage becomes a bigger problem for accuracy with larger printers but we do not see it as a significant problem with the Liquid Crystal printers.

Q: What is the long-term stability of the printed parts?

A: This would depend on environmental conditions and timescale. We do not have environmental stability data on our printed parts, but this is something of interest to us and we have ongoing tests.

Q: What temperatures do the printed parts tolerate?

A: Currently, the printed parts from most of our resins will crack if held at 250 – 300 C for long periods of time. Their heat deflection temperatures (HDT) are around 60 – 80 C, and so will deform if put under a load at temperatures higher than this. We are working on a high temperature resin, which currently has an HDT of 150 C but we are approving this and hoping to get up to 250 C.