"Bonnie Cashin was on our minds for pre-fall," Preen's Justin Thornton said in London, referring to the sportswear pioneer. "We wanted a very fifties look of American ease—languid with minimal fabrics." A cherry red suit with wide-leg trousers and a boxy jacket had a retro feel, like something Cashin fans Marlene Dietrich and Gloria Vanderbilt would've worn in the designer's heyday. Ditto a boxy wool crepe mushroom dress with striping details on voluminous sleeves. Given Michelle Obama's recent discovery of vintage, a precisely tailored sheath dress with elaborate beading (and a more modern vibe) may just prove to be the collection's secret weapon.

Cashin was known for her nomadic tendencies, and Thornton and his partner, Thea Breggazi, picked up on that by flipping through piles of National Geographic magazines and photographing hundreds of patterned carpets. A red and black ikat print turned up as an easy shirtdress, as well as on the bodice of a tailored wool frock. And let's not forget the label's Power Dress, made famous by Gwyneth et al.: They could've left it untouched; it is, after all, their top seller. But Thornton and Bregazzi aren't the types to trade on past glory. Their pre-fall version comes with a flamenco-esque ruffle detail on the bottom. We're guessing the peripatetic Cashin would have approved.

kudos to preen for pushing a new silhouette in its pre-fall offerings. while they cite american sportswear as an inspiration point, there's something quintessentially english about the way these clothes drape and hang. it recalls the margaret thatcher era in such a particular way. while i'm personally drawn to those knits immediately, the most striking stuff here has a cerebral sexuality.

those long languid dresses would start to simmer with a couple of the buttons undone. what an interesting take on the new length fashion gave us this past spring.

i'm really liking this new direction...
it's good to see them evolving and...maybe even maturing...
it's a sign that they really have longevity and are able to adapt to the changing fashion landscape...

it's demure and sexy at the same time...
hard and soft...timeless and modern...
i like what they've done with the notched hems on some of the jackets and skirts...
and the colours are really enticing...
the styling is spot on as well...

very nice...

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"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior

i find preen so confusing so it's not a brand i know to turn to for a particular style. though, this collection looks like a mix of a few of my favourites like mario schwab (esp for halston) and richard nicoll