Marc By Marc Jacobs

A SENSE of home and homeliness is already emerging as one of the key trends for autumn/winter 2002. As confidence returns to the city so shaken by the threat of further terrorist action last year, many of New York's designers are reflecting the new mood in their collections – and none more so than <B> Marc Jacobs </B> with his smaller, diffusion line, Marc by Marc Jacobs, shown yesterday. Warm colours (navy, cream, tan, crimson and aubergine), heavy fabrics (indigo denim, velvet, wool), and youthful shapes characterised the collection, topped off by cute wool cloche hats, pulled low over the ears, and mile-long, thick ribbed wool scarves, striped or fringed like hydras. Very Ali MacGraw. Or rather Jennifer Cavilerri from <I>Love Story</I>: picture the music student from Radcliffe, wrapped in a double-breasted peacoat or zipped into a dark blue blouson with Seventies-style stretchy waistbands and cuffs of lemon, mint and orange stripes, and tight and slightly flaring dark jeans or a straight scarlet midi over knee-high chestnut leather boots. One day she casually teams a pair of culottes with a mannish tailored W-cut waistcoat or knitted tank-top over a soft cotton shirt in sepia brown and a white long-sleeved vest. The next, she hides under a navy, knee-length bell cape, with double red lines around its hem. Perfectly preppy, and a comforting look for next season. (13 February 2002, AM)