Yong Xing

I bought a 50cc kit from this Chinese co. which includes a muffler and pull start.

My problem is I have a very rudimentary knowledge of mechanics and an even more rudimentary knowledge of interpreting Chinese English into English English. eg Having worked out I needed to remove a cover to fit the chain I then discovered the chain was too big to fit on the sprocket, so I e-mailed the question and received the reply. 'Hi friend. Remove the cover.' I solved it by breaking the chain on the master link.

There was no advice on how to fit the throttle cable and nor the clutch cable. What it fits to and how it operates. So I asked them. This time the reply was. 'Hi friend. We can replace cable for 25 USD.' (I'm English BTW). This and a few other problems not covered by their scant instructions has left me in a bit of a quandry.

Is there anyone on here who has successfully fitted one of these beasts and if so can I pick your brains please?

Staff Member

Welcome to the forum. Lots of motorized bicycle enthusiasts here. Any of them would more than happy to help you. Go to the classic posts section and most of the questions you have will probably already be answered there. If you can't find the answer feel free to ask. Someone will answer or will post a link. Who knows one day maybe we will have a Chinese English to English English dictionary on here. We're glad you joined us and don't be afraid to ask questions. We have some very talented folks here.............................

jasonh kindly directed me to a wonderful site that gives a blow by blow account of how to fit, but I've run up against another seemingly unfathomable problem.

'Reach into the space below the clutch lever and
spin the small chain sprocket with your finger.'

It doesn't spin. This appears to be because it's in gear and I don't know how to get it out of gear. I've fitted the cable and springs correctly and the two controlling levers I have operate ( one takes it from 1 to 3 and the smaller one takes it back to one again) but this sprocket seems to be constantly engaged.

Dud this sight is awsome just read a little. The spokes will break if you put the rubber peices in the wrong place . Trust us! The rubber peices only go as like this , they protect your spokes. Put one between your sprocket and the spokes, then one the other side the inside of the hub other side of spokes your last rubber peice. Then the two or three metal peices, depends on weather your have the 6 millimeter or 8 stud bolt on set up. Finaly studes and washers, and nuts. Bottom line the rubber protects the the spokes.

Anthony, If You Have The Kit That I Beleive You Have, There Is Only I Gear (speed) There Is No Neutral. Only Clutch Engaged Or Disengaged. The Little Arm Above The Motor Sprocket Is The Clutch Release Arm. The Clutch Is On The Other Side Of Motor, Under The Cover. A Rod Runs Thru A Hollow Shaft To The Other Side. Take Cover Of Booth Sides And Study It. You Will Have To Learn How To Adjust Clutch. Be Careful So You Don`t Break Clutch Arm. Its Basic Clutch, Once You Understand It. When You Take Cover Off Rite Side, You Will See Small Gear On Motor Crankshaft The Drives The Big Gear On Clutch Housing. The Clutch Drives The Chain Gear. Study It And Read The Pertinate Posts. It Will All Fall Into Place For You. Take Your Time And Enjoy Your Build. They Are Great Little Motors, They Love Attention, And You Can Not Holler At Them. Ha Ha. Ron

Click to expand...

Thanks.

I read Norman's witty, yet helpful post on the clutch. One thing he points out is the adjustment of the flower nut. It seems that no matter what I turn (this flower thing included) the whole engine is turning over.

There are three levers. The biggest is the brake lever. The next biggest is the one that that has a dial that goes from one to three and the smallest goes back from three to one. All levers are functioning, though now I'm wondering why they're numbered. Is it perhaps the case that when it's on #1 it won't be strong enough to move the chain?

This is what I'm up against:-

'At the ends of the handle of the clutch, please ensure keep a certain free space, generally 2-3 mm. Only proper space able to ensure the timely decoupling of the clutch and free of slipery. In the course of adjustment, loosen the handle of the clutch, turn the hollow-center screws, turn outside for decrease of space, turn inside for increase of space. After adjustment, tighten the nuts and avoid loose. If slipery in case of proper space, dimantle the cover of the clutch to check if the cover sleeve of the clutch is loose, and tighten if necessary.'

And that's their 'definitive' clutch bit.

This site http://www.livefastmotors.com/pdf/two_cycle.pdf that jasonh posted shows what appears to be the exact same engine, but without a brake type lever for disengaging, just the two click levers as previously described, though on the throttle handle there is a kill switch.

Any further thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks also goat herder. Now I have to choose between your advice and theirs, which reads:-

'Install the assembly of gear disc at the rear wheel of the bicycle, cover the outside tightening rubber at the rear axle, then cover the assembly of gear disc, its concave side closely attached to rubber. At the other side of the steel wires of the rear axle of the bicycle, install the inside tightening rubber, press the outside tightening rubber with small and large tightening plates. Install and tighten the assembly of gear disc at the rear wheel. In the course of tightening, ensure the radial and axial deflection between the gear disc and the rear axle less than 1 mm. Don't tighten excessively, tighten only for alignment of the assembly.'

Anthony, remove the spark plug, remove the clutch actuator (3 screws) and use a 19mm socket wrench to rotate the front sprocket, start the chain on the bottom of the sprocket. The instructions show both rubber gaskets on the same side of the spokes, I think you will find that most on here suggest that this is incorrect, "sandwich" the spokes between the rubber gaskets, and IF you can CUT the gaskets with a SCISSOR get different ones.... you will need a stout sharp knife to cut only one gasket for the "inside of the spokes"..... good luck

hi there...have you had any joy with it all Antony? I have just got my bike and engine kit from them...with a 2 sided peice of paper...struggling through sorting it all out myself...but the links and advice here are great...i recieved bike with damage and scratches...emailed them...and nothing...they even put 2 bloody left pedals in!!!