BASF Wall tite is Not the best closed cell foam available. Its dimensional
stability is Not good, which means it shrinks alot when it cools since it
creates so much heat when being sprayed, its compressive strength is one of
the lowest in the industry and the open cell content within this foam is 8%
which is Really high..sooo Not the best no.

I appreciate the contractor representatives honesty regarding the
do-it-yourself installation benefits. I want to know more in depth the pros
and cons of open to close in laymen terms. How does it affect one’s
breathing quality? Although he was rude, I’m trying to understand the logic
and expertise in d1incharge’s comment as it relates to my home.

@BigDsunburst53 Its great when you are limited with space, but in a home
you are not. 3.5″ walls allow for R-15 loose-fill/batts, beyond code in
many places especially with a continuous insulation on the outside of a
wall(more effective /inch than CC foam in a wall by far. Air sealing has to
be done to the TWO air barriers in every wall, CC foam is not rated to be
exposed on the outsie of a home(where it would penetrate to “seal” outsided
walls) UV and water will destroy it.

What do you do about all the homes that have foam installed, before the new
codes forced the foamers to put the “fire coating” on the foams? Although
the foams needed the coating before. First of all: 2 inches of closed cell
foam is not a moisture barrier or a vapor barrier. Ask this “FOAMER” how
many inches deep of closed cell do you need to spray to get to a “Vapor
Barrier”, he will not know because he thinks it has “Properties” of vapor
barriers? HMMMM? And always have vapor concerns,

@d1incharge Vapor barriers are never used redundantly because of their perm
rating, it would cause a condensation trap between the two. Also,unless the
climate zone is always constant vapor barriers will become vapor traps
depending the dominant heat gradient. CC foam does not rely on the perm
rating of the product, it uses the resistance to static pressure and a low
K-value to achieve it’s high ER. The properties of CC foam are the reason
you have a frost free refrigerator.

I hope you have better success. But BASF SPRAYTITE has been a closed cell
foam from hell for us. An applicator in SC purchased the SPRAYTITE®
polyurethane foam materials from a supplier near Charlotte, NC. The
applicator applied it in Feb 2011 to our garage ceiling. After a week it
started smelling like fish. After five months the applicator removed﻿ about
60% of it and resprayed it. The new application has less odor. But the
garage still smells. I wish we had never used this product.

Building code requires that to be covered with drywall because its highly
combustible. Also, I’ve seen a few basement where the foundations cracked
real nice because the foam insulates very well (no heat escapes below
grade, ground freezes and heaves the foundation wall in -Crrrack. Great
stuff though, works amazing. Not sure about it saving money, usually rigid
foam insulation is much cheaper.

If the vapors are toxic, why would the installer NOT protect his head and
ears, and why would he wear a suit that does not cover parts of the arm
(there was skin between the suit and the glove in the video)? Where is the
furnace? My understanding is that you can’t spray too close to one, and/or
the pipes emanating from the furnace.

@BigDsunburst53 Also in attic applications, insulating the ceiling vs. the
roof deck is much more efficient no matter the type of insulation. You can
install R-60 loosefill in an attic, but can barely creep by R-30 with spray
foam which is also likely installed on the roof deck which is retarded.
Condition the attic? Idiots! New homes are too tight w/out foam, both IRC
and IECC are requireing mechanical ventilation now, w/out foam. Funny
thing, you can get double the R for less $

Do you have high energy bills? If you are looking to save more money in
energy than what you spend in upgrades the first thing is to find out what
you spend on heating and cooling. To know what your heat and cooling costs
are you take your lowest annual bill, multiply it by 12. Then you add up
your actual 12 months energy bills and find the difference of the two. Also
to make better recommendations it might be handy to know your climate zone.

@Alwaysthenaughty1 Why not? Rigid foam is closed cell foam, and the seams
could easily be sealed. It is technically called an “air barrier” and
moisture barrier, so how you claim it won’t seal sounds like an installer
issue. Your “resitual cold” was something you made up, all these years in
the home energy business, I don’t think I have heard that one. Resitual
cold? Rigid foam, higher r-value/inch, same air seal quality, WAY CHEAPER,
and you can DYI instead of hiring some goober.

I have a 1870 house with stone basement / brick and mortar for the top 2
feet. I wonder if closed cell foam would work well on stone. I have an
estimate being done on Oct 25th – and the job is just 41ft x 7ft or
287sq/ft. I’m thinking of using my pressure washer to clean the wall and
get rid of the loose stuff. I suspect the estimate will be on the high side
– and may just go with the touch’n seal 600 closed cell kit for about $600
avail on ebay. The 600 kit covers 600sq/ft at an inch thick

Here is advice from a licensed building performance analyst: Any contractor
claiming “foam is the best” or that foam can in any way pay for itself in
savings, or add any value to your home, is not only too stupid to do fairly
simple math, but are crooked for claiming they have done the math and they
know it saves money. IT CANNOT POSSIBLY BEAT LOOSE-FILLS, NEVER HAS NEVER
WILL. Insulation is ONLY used for R-value, air sealing should be done on
the TWO required air barriers in EVERY wall.