* Spago Beverly Hills: Available at lunch, this most luxurious of all Cobbs looks much like any other, except for the broad, pink stripe of lobster on top. (Lobster Cobb salad, $21.50.) Spago Beverly Hills, 176 N. Canon Drive, (310) 385-0880.

* Jake & Annie's: This American cafe serves the traditional Cobb, although the kitchen uses turkey in the place of chicken and dresses it with a mustard-spiked vinaigrette. (Cobb salad, $9.95.) Jake & Annie's, 2700 Main St., Santa Monica, (310) 452-1734.

* Dive!: If you ever wanted to eat a Cobb salad in a submarine, this theme restaurant from Steven Spielberg and Jeffrey Katzenberg is about as close as you can get. The "All-American Cobb" is romaine and iceberg lettuce with grilled chicken, bacon, tomatoes, egg, avocado, blue cheese, black olives and a red wine vinaigrette. (Cobb salad, $9.95.) Dive!, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, (310) 788-3483.