I'm an authentic old-timer when it comes to the obsession with these antiquated little machines we call the mechanical wristwatch. But I am something of a newcomer to the Seiko brand in terms of scratching more than the surface of the staggering depth and breadth of their product history.
In my eager meandering through the dizzying array of both contemporary and vintage offerings, I occasionally stumble across a truly unique and compelling piece that seems to stand somewhat apart from the mainstream, and which fills me with pure wide-eyed want. Almost invariably, that urgent purchase itch simply cannot be scratched, as I discover that the watch in question was a very limited edition, now long out of production and all but hopelessly unattainable.

But the one who continues to seek will always be rewarded with the knowledge gained in the search and will occasionally be rewarded with a tangible find.

Such was the case when recently I stumbled upon a Seiko Brightz SAGN015 offered for sale. As with many such discoveries, it was I watch I had never heard of and did not know to even exist. But I was captivated by the photograph of the watch specifically, the dial of the watch which is the inarguably defining feature of this unique piece.

You see, the dial is genuine enamel and BLUE enamel at that far more uncommon in horological use than the traditional crisp white enamel dial. I'll just pause for a moment and note that the term "enamel" is quite widely misused in the watch world to describe painted or lacquered watch dials. While these can be appealing works of art unto themselves (see, for example, the stunning depth of the Seiko dials rendered in traditional Japanese "Urushi" lacquer) it is inaccurate to apply the term "enamel' to these pieces.

To oversimplify a complex (and fascinating) process, genuine enamel refers to the application of successive layers of pigmented molten glass, bonded to a metal surface or plate. The repeated firing / melting of the layers lends incredible depth of colour and glossy shine (hey, it's basically glass!) to the resulting dial surface. That striking colour is also highly resistant (some would say wholly immune) to fading or discoloration over time. The process of repeated firing and melting, however, provides many opportunities for catastrophic failure which is why such dials are more frequently found on higher-end watches where the costs associated with a higher failure rate in production can be more easily subsumed within the purchase price.

But enough background let's take a look at the watch itself.

This particular version was part of a limited edition of just 200 individually numbered pieces, with production commencing in the early 2000s as best I can determine.

The dial is a truly beautiful shade of deep indigo blue. In low light, it looks glossy black, transitioning to a subtle midnight blue, then an more vibrant indigo with increasing ambient light. The subdials and registers display the subtle curved "dished" effect of genuine enamel. You can almost "see" the molten glass flowing into the slightly concave low points of the dial. Watching light play across the surface of a true enamel dial is one of those subtle pleasures that simply never grows old. Sadly, it is also one which cannot be shared through the medium of two-dimensional still photographs. You'll have to take my word for it. This pic from the original owner shows the contours of the dial well:

The dial encompasses three separate interior displays. The subdials at 9 o'clock and 6 o'clock are, respectively, the home time (displayed in a 24 hr format) and the date (pointer display). The crescent-shaped register that spans 1 o'clock to 3 o'clock is a retrograde date display at midnight on Sunday the pointer instantaneously snaps back across the full span of the register to point once again to Monday. The sweep second hand is long, almost impossibly slender and very elegant. It is counterbalanced by a stylized Brightz "B". The remaining hands are rendered in an attractive sword shape. Somehow, this 6-hand display manages to remain clear and reasonably uncluttered.

Even the case is something of a unique element within the Seiko family a chiseled cushion shape with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The dimension is given as 39mm "diameter" obviously an inaccurate term as applied to a non-round watch. It presents as slightly larger on the wrist a shade over 40mm perhaps, but comfortably wearable for a great many wrists. While it would have been well enough to offer this case in stainless steel, this limited edition piece is actually milled from titanium. The resulting feather-light bearing on the wrist definitely contributes to all-day comfort.

Saphhire crystals protect the lovely dial at the front and the 4S27 movement at the back. The crown at 2 o'clock independently adjusts the hour hand for the quick setting of local time, while the crown at 3 o'clock does everything else that needs doing.

It's been a real pleasure having this piece on my wrist over the past few days. The seller of the watch a fellow enthusiast from half way around the world in Vietnam was kind enough to arrange to have the timing tweaked by a local watchmaker before shipping the watch to me. And that watchmaker clearly knows what he is doing the watch hasn't gained or lost time in 2 days and counting.

As you have no doubt surmised, I am absolutely tickled with this new / old timepiece. Thanks for allowing me to share the experience with you.

Not only a most beautiful watch, but a great write up on it, Roger. Congratulations! I normally like to keep things simple on a dial, but this is done in a most pleasing integrated manner. Yep, pal, you have a winner here in my book. Take care. Karl