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Advice on ripped gusset :(

Hi guys,

I'm currently working on two clutch bags in metallic leather (Alran Goatskin) for a client and one of the gussets ripped.
I could really use some advice on what could have gone wrong and maybe on how to prevent that from happening in the future.

Thank you Danne, that is the best advice ever! I think it is because I only did pre punch the holes on the outside and then awled through. Maybe the holes went too far and therefore there was a gap in between. I also think that I did pull on the linen thread to hard so the two things might have caused the ripping.
Thanks again for you input, this was super helpful!