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PFW: Emanuel Ungaro Spring 2018 RTW

Before I begin writing this review, I will take into account that this is the first show I was invited to, therefore my views will be somewhat subjective. My gratitude goes out to lovely Céline from the Emanuel Ungaro offices for the opportunity to witness the “Lindsay Lohan curse” come to an end. For those blissfully unaware of the (probably) biggest embarrassment in the recent fashion history, here’s all you need to know: In 2009, the house of Emanuel Ungaro presented first collection designed by Estrella Archs under the artistic advisement of Lindsay Lohan (yes, Lindsay Lohan the actress). The collection was named “an embarrassment”, “cheesy and dated” with an “overworked” heart motif. A plain disaster, to put it shortly. Since the debacle, Emanuel Ungaro was trying to reorganize its women’s ready-to-wear by changing production partners, appointing different creative directors and (to be honest) hoping for the best. After ending a rather successful collaboration with Fausto Puglisi, the house appointed Sicilian designer Marco Colagrossi as Puglisi’s successor. The 40-something designer made his debut in Paris in June with the presentation of the label’s cruise collection. Yesterday, at Paris Fashion Week, at the marvelous Pavillon Ledoyen, he presented his vision for EmanuelUngaro’s Spring 2018 woman.

Before you start reading some rather catty reviews of the collection, take into consideration that this was no easy task for Colagrossi. He did a nod to some of the house’s signature shapes whilst introducing more modern pieces. Colagrossi presented some great patterns and introduced more high-tech fabrics achieving plastic shine and unusually embellished fabrics. The soft tailoring with draped detailing, feathery accents and stunningly embroidered PVC belts made the entire collection fit perfectly with the theme and vibe of the show. It was full of color and fun! Explosions of florals brought character to the sleek silhouettes. I particularly liked the movement of monochromatic pieces and a pop of boldness, power and femininity on the runway. It is a new, fresh perspective for Emanuel Ungaro and it might just have a bright perspective. So, all you fashion editors out there, stop being Mean Girls and admit that this actually works.

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Get a glimpse of backstage atmosphere in the gallery bellow. That’s where the real magic (and craziness!) happens.