What does that mean?
Is it the ID to OD concentricity? Is it TIR or the the other?

The shaft true precission .0000"
When install to the motor. It off by -.0001"
This base on motor shaft true precission.
Motor shaft are variable from .1963" -.1966" OD
So the two parts off from each anywhere from .0001-.0003"
Fine tune the shaft ID that only allow to the lowest number is the key of precission machining.

Now..it your turn to give some number of your dyanamic method.
You can email me if don't want to show it here.
I'm interested to see how that homemade balancer goes works.
From my understand that is not how it balance.
Rotor must balance by itself dynamic.
Motor must be dynamic balance itself and shaft must be true center to be call truthly dynamic piece of ART's.
You can't balance all together because the motor and rotor offset each other during balancing.
So every RPM change also chance the balancing point.
Even you got it balance O.K. to run.
But by taking a rotor out and put it back on at different location.
Your are out of balance again because the motor is offset with the rotor.
Correct me if I'm wrong on this and why.

I have a Habu on order and have read thru this thread with interest. Thanks for all the heads up on the plane.

One thing I have learned in my years of flying electics(both prop and Edf)is to do what is proven to work.....in other words don't plant your plane in the ground because you won't do what is proven. One such thing is using the BEC in the controller.......I never use the controller BECs......... rather I use either the 1100mah A-123 or 2300mah A-123 onboard pack. In conjunction with the A-123 packs I NEVER use an on/off switch....I plug the batteries directly. SO far I have not had a crash due to power failure to the rx.

I have a Habu on order and have read thru this thread with interest. Thanks for all the heads up on the plane.

One thing I have learned in my years of flying electics(both prop and Edf)is to do what is proven to work.....in other words don't plant your plane in the ground because you won't do what is proven. One such thing is using the BEC in the controller.......I never use the controller BECs......... rather I use either the 1100mah A-123 or 2300mah A-123 onboard pack. In conjunction with the A-123 packs I NEVER use an on/off switch....I plug the batteries directly. SO far I have not had a crash due to power failure to the rx.

Isn't the 2300 Mah a little heavy for the Habu?? I read some where that that 1100 mah was a little too heavy aswell?? Any Ideas on the size to install on the Habu??The LiFe pack is the redundency system I'm going with..I have them in all my Helis and I really like them! ( Life Packs)

Zac, I am only using 25-35ma out of 2s lipo per 3.5min flight on my Habu. My Habu is almost 8lbs, the Duralite reg and 2s lipo I am using weigh 45 grams and I have/am using the same reg on my Trex 600 and TT E620se 12s.Mind you with a little bigger 2s lipo. Your heli's require much more ma, especialy if you 3d.

Zac, I am only using 25-35ma out of 2s lipo per 3.5min flight on my Habu. My Habu is almost 8lbs, the Duralite reg and 2s lipo I am using weigh 45 grams and I have/am using the same reg on my Trex 600 and TT E620se 12s.Mind you with a little bigger 2s lipo. Your heli's require much more ma, especialy if you 3d.

What size Lipo are you using?? 25-35Mah? do you not mean 250-350 mah?? Is it the 6V Reg. from Duralite?/ Thanx!

Anyone out there running a 9303/9503 radio in there habu? Are you guys setting up different flight modes as far as dual rates go or are you using the actual d/r switches for the channel? Also, are you using the flaperon setup to mix crow in with flaps? Thanks a bunch

Anyone out there running a 9303/9503 radio in there habu? Are you guys setting up different flight modes as far as dual rates go or are you using the actual d/r switches for the channel? Also, are you using the flaperon setup to mix crow in with flaps? Thanks a bunch

-Carl

Carl,

I have my three flight modes controlled by the one flight mode switch. I have the flaps set with no crow, just a slight change to the elevator with each flap setting. I did change the speed of the flap servo to 1.88 seconds up and down. I like the slow change. I fly with the 9303.

Thanks for your response. Now when you drop your flaps does your ailerons go up or do you have your crow set on another switch? Thanks again

-Carl

It goes up when the flaps go down. I fly off a paved runway so no need for me to use take off flaps. Slight crow on mid flap and more on full flap. On full flap and crow I come in no power at a steep down angle and flair right before touch down with a touch of power and she floats in. There's tall trees on one side of the runway so it's hard to have a long approach when the winds blowing east bound.

Does the crow basically keep the jet from tip stalling on slow approaches? Also, I'm using a Futaba 8FG, so do I need to set it up as 2 ailerons and 2 flaps, which would use 4 channels? I would like to separate my rudder and nose wheel steering too, so I don't think I have enough channels. I guess I could use a 14 channel rx and upgrade (by downloading to get 14 channels on the 8FG, not sure if it's possible. any help is greatly appreciated. Maybe I'll just use a 7 channel receiver and just Y-harness everything and forget about the crow. Is it really a benefit? thanks Stephan