Jack stands, jack, a big prybar, wheel chock, torx (just get a set and don't go cheap) PB blaster and a six pack (for after).... if all goes well. If not you will need the following. Another day, a drill with strong drill bits, replacement bolts to hold shocks for drilled out shock bolts, sawzall to cut top of front shocks off because they just spin, replacement shocks.... you should get longer ones with a 2 inch lift and another 6 pack. When I lowered my axle I only had to disconnect my swaybar links but get directions from the net. I just did mine.... good luck

To reduce the fear factor that might have set in from a few of the above comments, you only need a set of common tools including a 3/8" and 1/2" ratchet set and wrenches. Your TJ is new enough that most hardware should be metric but don't be surprised if you run into a few SAE nuts or bolts. You'll also need a pair of 6 ton jackstands to support the Jeep via the frame so the axles can droop down after you remove the wheels. Getting the axles to droop enough is the key to making inserting the spacers an easy job without the need for a spring compressor. I say 6 ton jack stands and not 3 ton because only 6 ton jack stands are tall enough for a Jeep. Harbor Freight Tools has them inexpensively if you have one of their stores near by.

Once the Jeep is up on jack stands (You can do it with just two, do the front then the rear), unbolt the shocks, antiswaybar links, and track bar which will allow the axle to droop down far enough to remove the springs and insert the spacers on top. If you need a tad more clearance, have a friend lift up the opposite end of the axle for you to create a little more clearance.

You will need to set the front-end's toe-in adjustment after lifting it up 2". All you need is a tape measure, a big set of pliers, and wrench to set your own toe-in. You can easily achieve just as accurate of a toe-in setting as an alignment shop can produce with just a little care. Simply rotate the tie rod (click on the pic in the below pic) until the front of the tires are 1/16" closer together than they are at the rear of the tires.

And you can achieve a more repeatable measurement than by measuring just between the tires as shown in the link by using the method shown in the two below photographs. It requires nothing more than two pieces of 1" square aluminum (or steel) tubing and a couple clamps.

Simply mark the two pieces of aluminum at two points to equal your tire diameter and measure between them at the front and rear. The front needs to be 1/16" to 1/8" closer together which gives you the correct amount of toe-in. For smaller tires like 30-31", I'd aim for 1/16". Yes, this is easily done and trust me that an alignment shop has no special magic available to them to set your toe-in any more accurately than this produces. In fact, most 4x4 shops use this method to set the toe-in. And you MUST do this immediately after installing your 2" lift as the taller lift height will change the toe-in which will cause fast front tire wear.