fredag 29 maj 2015

Today i had an great day at Fallataket. Tried an old project that i have worked a bit on and of. Had to find a solution for the mid part. The moves are done and got it done in two parts. Lorentz did David and goliath 8A and Niom 7C/C+. back on Sunday for some more :) a lot of strong climbers visit this little space in the forest, some like it some don't. For me this is like heaven cool steep climbing with futuristic lines... And really good climbing for the consumer to bear down at. Today was a good day and i had fun on two cool futuristic projects. Tried the line left of David and goliath and did al but one move. This one is hardish and it have not so indoor style of climbing on it...

torsdag 14 maj 2015

Today i had the plan to try and climb Golden path low. During warmup one crucial crux hold on Eldelids himmel broke. The day was on for solving this one sans the hold. The new problems jumps the grade a notch and i think the long version is around 7C+ the sun is hot and to try GP was out of Q...

lördag 9 maj 2015

Flash of Toker 7B/C and musho easier if u can do the move this way... wehh ;)

Sanna on the good easy and apparently unclimbed Sds

Interstellar Left 7C

A nice Warm and sunny day spent at Korslöt. Started the day with an flash send of Toker witch was given 7B+ by the Fa. (regarding where you start i would say) the problem feels slightly easier that Interstellar that i gave 7C and in my opinion are harder than this one. Sanna made The Fa of the center line sans eliminate and this is by far the best addiction to the block 6B+ seams like a fair grade on this one from a site that s of corse a given point. Later i decided to try the remaining version of Interstellar. This share start but tops left and is the HARDEST version of the problem. Still i think its the same grade as Toker and Interstellar and in my opinion they al should be in the span of 7C. I decided on the name Interstellar Left 7C.

fredag 8 maj 2015

2 new Fa`s today one north of Norrköping on a block at Fäboda. This one is a bit contrived since the start is a low and you don't use the aret on it... Weird! no to me it felt to be the right position for the start and climbing on it you sort of only could use the aret to make one move less hard. Bypass 7C is a good addiction to that block. The second one is in Önsta Västerås Ebba 8A stand start on a wall and some dynamic moves lead to an eminent topp. This is a good one but its really sharpish... There is an possible Sds and this will be a hard one 8B i would say for sure ;)