People gather at the temple on Wednesday morning at Burning Man on the Black Rock Desert near Gerlach, Nev. on Aug. 29, 2012.

Photo: Andy Barron, Associated Press

People gather at the temple on Wednesday morning at Burning Man on...

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Burners ride their bicycle through the streets of Burning Man near Gerlach, Nev. on Aug. 28, 2012.

Photo: Andy Barron, Associated Press

Burners ride their bicycle through the streets of Burning Man near...

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An art piece named La Llorona rests on the playa at Burning Man on Wednesday morning Aug. 29, 2012 near Gerlach, Nev.

Photo: Photo By Andy Barron, Associated Press

An art piece named La Llorona rests on the playa at Burning Man on...

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Stephanie King of Little Rock, Ark. hula hoops to the music of a band playing near her at Burning Man near Gerlach, Nev. on Aug. 28, 2012.

Photo: Andy Barron, Associated Press

Stephanie King of Little Rock, Ark. hula hoops to the music of a...

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A band play music on top of a bus at Burning Man near Gerlach, Nev. on Aug. 28, 2012.

Photo: Andy Barron, Associated Press

A band play music on top of a bus at Burning Man near Gerlach, Nev....

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Milo Miller, 7, sprays Lonn Johnston with a mist of cool water at the Black Rock Desert, Nev. during Burning Man.

Photo: Andy Barron, Associated Press

Milo Miller, 7, sprays Lonn Johnston with a mist of cool water at...

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Milo Miller, 7, gets help from Niz Arif in getting a kite in the air on the Black Rock Desert, Nev. during Burning Man on Thursday, Aug. 30, 2012.

Photo: Andy Barron, Associated Press

Milo Miller, 7, gets help from Niz Arif in getting a kite in the...

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People gather around an art intallation at Burning Man in the Black Rock Desert near Gerlach, Nev. on Wednesday, Aug. 29, 2012.

Photo: Andy Barron, Associated Press

People gather around an art intallation at Burning Man in the Black...

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Man meets mantis. (Mark Morford / Mark Morford)

Man meets mantis. (Mark Morford / Mark Morford)

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The completely lovely, humble, incredibly sweet artist David Best has built a few astonishing Temples for Burning Man. Everyone loves them, adores him. Every temple he's built evokes deep, potent memories for anyone who experiences them. His work is unparalleled. No one expected him to come back one more time, although everyone sure as hell hoped he would. His Temple for 2012 was perhaps the most beautiful, enrapturing, and sacred ever. And that's saying something.

The completely lovely, humble, incredibly sweet artist David Best...

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You'll find more authentic emotional/sacred energy hanging around the Temple at Burning Man for a single week than in a dozen Catholic churches and 100 nutball fundamentalist Christian megachurches combined and flipped upside down and licked like an absinthe popsicle in hell. Zero dogma, too. Isn't that something?

You'll find more authentic emotional/sacred energy hanging around...

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More Temple offerings, from sacred to sublime, mournful to tragic to sort of unbelievable.

More Temple offerings, from sacred to sublime, mournful to tragic...

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By the end of the week, every inch, every nook, every reachable space contains an offering, a note, a farewell, a sigh of love or sadness or tragedy, pain or loss or delight. You've never seen, or felt, anything like it.

By the end of the week, every inch, every nook, every reachable...

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Temple writings, offerings, mournings, meanings. Weddings, ceremonies, farewells, welcomes, announcements, breakups, greetings, releases. By the thousand. All burned on Sunday night in probably one of the most intense, somber, powerful outpourings of energy you will find in any sacred place anywhere in the world. This thing is supercharged.

Temple writings, offerings, mournings, meanings. Weddings,...

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I have no idea what this is, what it was called, or what it's supposed to mean. It doesn't really matter. Very cool, from any angle.

I have no idea what this is, what it was called, or what it's...

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Cannot for the life of me think of a caption for this. Can you?

Cannot for the life of me think of a caption for this. Can you?

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The Temple. Stunning from any angle, any light, any level of intoxication.

The Temple. Stunning from any angle, any light, any level of...

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That's the Temple in the background. Classic.

That's the Temple in the background. Classic.

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Oh, there was lots of yoga on the playa. This was a weird little sculpture that played a looped recording of a strange female leading a strange class to no one in particular. Cool if you think it is.

Oh, there was lots of yoga on the playa. This was a weird little...

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All paths to the Temple.

All paths to the Temple.

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As the week went on, the Temple became covered in messages, art, mementos, quotes, obituaries, emotions, disires, mournings, farewells, longings, more intensely emotional power than any church you can name. By the end of the week, nearly impossible to walk around near its walls without spontaneous weeping. And look! No bleeding Jesus or judgmental God or leering male elders! Nice.

As the week went on, the Temple became covered in messages, art,...

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Ahh, playa romance. It's hot and gritty, dusty and sweet. Just like love.

Maybe this angle gives you more of an idea? A hint of this thing's astonishing beauty and power?

Maybe this angle gives you more of an idea? A hint of this thing's...

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Go ahead, describe this.

Go ahead, describe this.

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No idea. But cool.

No idea. But cool.

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Deep down, you know it really happened this way.

Deep down, you know it really happened this way.

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All roads lead to the Man.

All roads lead to the Man.

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Industrial cardboard yurts are the new tent.

Industrial cardboard yurts are the new tent.

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Shiva, aflame, during the full blue moon, in my camp, dinnertime.

Shiva, aflame, during the full blue moon, in my camp, dinnertime.

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More Temple offerings, from sacred to sublime, silly to tragic to sort of unbelievable.

More Temple offerings, from sacred to sublime, silly to tragic to...

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Just a casual evening stroll.

Just a casual evening stroll.

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There are no bad angles. There is almost no way to take a bad picture of the Temple. There is also no way to properly capture it all, do it proper justice. It's just that loaded, just that beautiful, Probably as it should be, really.

There are no bad angles. There is almost no way to take a bad...

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Right around sundown, heading to the playa from camp, the things you stumble upon.

Right around sundown, heading to the playa from camp, the things...

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I know what you're thinking. Who hasn't had THIS dream?

I know what you're thinking. Who hasn't had THIS dream?

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By the end of the week when the Temple burns (the day after the Man), every inch, every nook, every reachable space contains an offering, a note, a farewell, a sigh of love or sadness or tragedy, pain or loss or delight. It's breathtaking, very intense, and impossible to ignore. It's a free-form, open-ended, completely user-defined divine space.

By the end of the week when the Temple burns (the day after the...

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Kids love Burning Man. OK, not really. Maybe for a few hours. Like it's a giant, very weird playground. With lots of fire. And dust. And huge inflatable penises. And things no parent should try to explain. Yes, it's weird to see kids out there, even the kids of pseudo hippie hipster Burners. Maybe they think their kids will grow up all hip and open minded, like they're exposing them to wild good things at an early age so they'll be happy and funky and cool and not bitter uptight Republican jacknoses with bricks where their hearts should be. Hey, whatever works, right?

Kids love Burning Man. OK, not really. Maybe for a few hours. Like...

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The GF and I met the artist of this delightful little piece, name of Vico (I think). He was incredibly sweet and was thrilled we were taking pictures of his sculpture. It was adorable and touching. He was out there changing the balloon to the freshly inflated one you see here.

The GF and I met the artist of this delightful little piece, name...

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The crowd watches the burn.

The crowd watches the burn.

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Anubis. Egyptian dog. Enormous, striking, sort of wonderful. He burned on Friday during a dust storm.

Anubis. Egyptian dog. Enormous, striking, sort of wonderful. He...

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Standard glory shot of the Man, daytime, nothing fancy but still quite impressive. Photos never really do BM justice, because you miss the smells, the sounds, the atmosphere, which counts for more than just about any other festival or event on the planet.

Standard glory shot of the Man, daytime, nothing fancy but still...

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Cocktail cruise.

Cocktail cruise.

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My fave time of day: right around sundown, the air still incredibly warm, the playa calm and mellow as the boats go cruising by under a full and pregnant moon before everyone heads to their camps to eat and prepare to come back out and cruise/party/dance/ogle the moon all night.

My fave time of day: right around sundown, the air still incredibly...

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Just a little puff at sunrise. (Photo by the goodly Jon Travis).

Just a little puff at sunrise. (Photo by the goodly Jon Travis).

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Merrill Lynch can eat it.

Merrill Lynch can eat it.

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This reminded me of the Bean in Chicago. Except spacier. And stranger. I have no idea what it was. I really should look these things up.

This reminded me of the Bean in Chicago. Except spacier. And...

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I think I'm looking for the best escape route to get away from the guys in bunny hats singing off-key beer polka songs atop Anubis, behind me.

I think I'm looking for the best escape route to get away from the...

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Your caption here.

Your caption here.

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I heart you.

I heart you.

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A giant ramp leading to an enormous sunken ship, its interior full of slanted floors and sundry pirate-like decor. Amazing in a dozen different ways.

A giant ramp leading to an enormous sunken ship, its interior full...

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Some supercool fire-breathing metal dragon-dog thing, out for a casual evening drive. Because that's what you do.

Some supercool fire-breathing metal dragon-dog thing, out for a...

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I think these were called the Effigies, and they surrounded the Man at various points. There were at least a dozen or more (I really should look these things up), built by various burner communities from cities and countries all over the world. They burned early in the week, as hot precursor.

I think these were called the Effigies, and they surrounded the Man...

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Oh my God, the Octopus. What a creation. Simple and awesome and breathed more fire than any other 10 sculptures put together. All armed pumped, the eyes bulged in and out, the jaws opened and closed and a huge poof of fire blasted out of his head (along with all eight arms). He was fantastic and we could not get enough. Very much a highlight and a crowd (and personal) favorite

Oh my God, the Octopus. What a creation. Simple and awesome and...

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View from atop the Garage Mahal art car, in my camp, sunset.

View from atop the Garage Mahal art car, in my camp, sunset.

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View from atop the Garage Mahal art car, in my camp, sunset.

View from atop the Garage Mahal art car, in my camp, sunset.

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The colors at sunset were sort of indescribably dramatic and wonderful and no camera can every properly capture. But still we try.

The colors at sunset were sort of indescribably dramatic and...

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Who, me? Oh, you know, just doing a little writing.

Who, me? Oh, you know, just doing a little writing.

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This was called Wall Street. All the big names were represented. They burned the hell out of it on Saturday night, after the Man. It was delightful.

This was called Wall Street. All the big names were represented....

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Hot new trend: Umbrellas and cycling in very bright colors. Get on it, fixie nerds

Hot new trend: Umbrellas and cycling in very bright colors. Get on...

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One of the Serpent Twins art cars. Bendy and cute and fun and simple. One black, one white. There was a Kickstarter thing about them, too. Glad they made it.

One of the Serpent Twins art cars. Bendy and cute and fun and...

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Bug meets snail.

Bug meets snail.

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Ego prepares to burn.

Ego prepares to burn.

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Legendary, infamous, utterly glorious are the porta-potties at Burning Man. At least this particular row had a sense of humor about it.

Legendary, infamous, utterly glorious are the porta-potties at...

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Your author, outside his castle.

Your author, outside his castle.

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You want the most hardcore daytime dance party on the playa? You want to shake your ass like a madman in dusty, 100-degree heat to some of the most badass DJs around, alongside about 500 of your closest, sweatiest, dirtiest, most deliciously crazy friends? Then you go to the day parties at Distrikt.

You want the most hardcore daytime dance party on the playa? You...

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Inside the Man, looking up, night. I don't have any pix of the elaborate, and rather amazing, interior of the Man, an incredible, climbable latticework of planks, beams, joints, and paths that used no nails and was packed with bodies, mostly because I thought I'd return at some point to take more photos, and never got around to it. Such is the nature of the burn.

Inside the Man, looking up, night. I don't have any pix of the...

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I only saw this once. Not because it vanished, but because BM is so vast there is simply no way to see everything and no matter how much you bike around, no matter how many days you're there, no matter what intentions you set to go find something again, you only ever see a fraction, a sliver - even of the big stuff. Amazing.

I only saw this once. Not because it vanished, but because BM is so...

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Body air brushing, one of roughly 4,000 similar free offerings on the playa, from pedicures to ass branding, pickles to hand jobs, flogging seminars to a guy dressed as the pope who washes your hair. The range of offerings is what's most delightful, serious to sublime, silly to surreal.

Body air brushing, one of roughly 4,000 similar free offerings on...

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Nearly everyone think it's hugely irresponsible to bring babies to the playa, largely due to the conditions (extreme dust, heat/cold, smoke, noise, etc) and I tend to agree. But this baby was strangely beautiful, magical. So who knows.

Nearly everyone think it's hugely irresponsible to bring babies to...

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This is Thor. He attended my camp's day party. He was awesome.

This is Thor. He attended my camp's day party. He was awesome.

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Garage Mahal camp shot.

Garage Mahal camp shot.

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It's all pink inside.

It's all pink inside.

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Leave my heart alone.

Leave my heart alone.

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Temple interior, looking up. Stunning.

Temple interior, looking up. Stunning.

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Thunderdome. Legendary. Run by the infamously grimy, super-goth metalhead camp known as Death Guild. They had killer dodgeball, jousting, crazy MCs and rockin' DJs. Terrible picture, I know. But oh so fun to climb, watch, scream.

Thunderdome. Legendary. Run by the infamously grimy, super-goth...

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Best part of this awesome camp was the soft-rock '70s FM radio music they played. A delightful counterbalance to the excessive, obnoxious dubstep and hardcore techno that's everywhere at BM.

Best part of this awesome camp was the soft-rock '70s FM radio...

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Pink Mammoth. Easily the best groovy chillout dance club/bar on the playa.

This one's been out on the playa many, many times over the years. Simple, cool, classic.

This one's been out on the playa many, many times over the years....

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Heart Deco had some killer DJs. Follow them around at night and dance your ass off. Fabulous.

Heart Deco had some killer DJs. Follow them around at night and...

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This is the Tree of Life. It's included here because I included an almost identical pic from probably 12 years ago when I wrote about Burning Man for the first time, and the tree was there, too. Quintessential Burning Man.

This is the Tree of Life. It's included here because I included an...

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Cat and bus.

Cat and bus.

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Your author, bouldering.

Your author, bouldering.

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This guy was dressed in a flimsy inflatable penis costume (there were probably ten of them on the playa of various qualities and, uh, erectitude. I have no explanation as to their popularity). He was very excited to climb atop this boulder in his droopy penis costume. I do not know what to make of that.

This guy was dressed in a flimsy inflatable penis costume (there...

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When your grandparents are f--king awesome, they do this to their golf cart.

The center of my camp, where we gathered for community dinners every night and lit our sculptures on fire.

The center of my camp, where we gathered for community dinners...

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More from the Temple, because it's impossible to take too many pictures of it.

More from the Temple, because it's impossible to take too many...

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Temple interior. Stunning.

Temple interior. Stunning.

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My GF loves this pic of this girl in her killer el-wire butterfly wings and sexybadass burner wear. I have to agree.

My GF loves this pic of this girl in her killer el-wire butterfly...

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This is a terrible photo of the Man just beginning to burn. This is a terrible photo because the GF and I were running late gettting to the playa due to imbibing delicioous things that made loading our car and strapping our bikes to the roof for late-night post-burn departure rather, shall we say, challenging. Also, my sweet Canon DSLR decided burn night was the perfect time to die on me, so all I had was a mediocre P&S with a lame zoom and limited manual settings. No matter. You can find great burn shots elsewhere.

This is a terrible photo of the Man just beginning to burn. This is...

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The crowd watches the Man go down in huge, roaring, orgasmic flames.

The crowd watches the Man go down in huge, roaring, orgasmic flames.

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The crowd watches the Man go down in huge, roaring, orgasmic flames.

The crowd watches the Man go down in huge, roaring, orgasmic flames.

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The base of the Man burns on after the Man hath fallen, very intense, very beautiful.

The base of the Man burns on after the Man hath fallen, very...

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Octopus! The best! Love you, octopus!

Octopus! The best! Love you, octopus!

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Anteater? I think? Pretty cute, whatever it is.

On the night of the burn, all art cars gather in an enormous semicircle around the Man, each blasting its own music and yet somehow not overlapping each other too obnoxiously. Funny how I was all prepared to take a bunch of killer night shots on burn night with my good camera before it decided to fail on me mere minutes before nightfall, leaving me with nothing but a swell point-and-shoot with terrible night settings. Ah well. It's impossible to describe, much less capture, the scale and color, smell and feel of this night anyway. Perhaps that's what makes BM so otherworldly. It's one of the few events left on earth that you simply cannot experience any other way except by attending it yourself. You think you know, but you have no idea.

The weeklong festival of self-expression and community-building in the Nevada desert known as Burning Man is poised to grow again when it kicks off Aug. 26.

The U.S. Bureau of Land Management granted organizers a four-year permit to stage the art-focused event in the sunbaked and dusty Black Rock Desert north of Reno, with a population cap of 68,000 this year.

That's up from a cap of 60,900 in 2012. In the permit's final three years, the maximum could go as high as 70,000, said Gene Seidlitz, who manages the federal bureau's Winnemucca office.

Seidlitz said Sunday that the increase - approved July 23 - was based on a review last year that took into account factors including the disposal of trash, sewage and oil and the prevention of ground scars from fires.

He said the festival gooses the economy of northern Nevada as well as his office, which received more than $500,000 last year - 3 percent of gross sales, including tickets and some limited vending. General admission this year is $380.

Officials at Black Rock City LLC, the San Francisco-based organizer, said in an e-mailed statement Sunday that they had been asking for a higher cap for years and had "always been confident in our ability to grow the event safely and sustainably."

Officials noted that they may not reach the population cap, which includes not only guests but also staff and government workers like police and firefighters. Last year's peak population was 56,149.

Anyone who wants to oppose the permit has 30 days to do so, Seidlitz said.

Burning Man has grown steadily, and sometimes awkwardly, since it moved from San Francisco to Nevada in 1990.

In 2011, organizers sold out of tickets and some people profited by reselling them - actions seen as violating the desert party's culture of inclusion and its gift economy. The Bureau of Land Management put organizers on probation after the 2011 event for exceeding a population cap of 50,000.