I will do. Tomorrow, it is 11pm here. I am just reading the PhotoNotes article posted above. I'm guessing that the limited SS range setting on my 5D only applies when the flash is on, not all the time. It is in the Speedlite settings page. I will experiment. I certainly wouldn't want to neuter my available light Av settings.

I would use M mode but I find there are already too many settings to keep track of - see my 'needing a flash as all my photos have motion blur (because I set ISO to 100, not Auto)’ post at the beginning of this thread.

I think you also need to understand the fundamentals of an exposure.You had motion blur because your shutter speed was too slow. Yes, raising the ISO will increase your shutter speed, but you NEED to be looking at all of your exposure data to understand why you are getting the results you are getting.

Aperture + shutter speed + ISO = exposure.

The great thing is you are using a digital camera- so you can look at the back of your screen and experiment!

I would use M mode but I find there are already too many settings to keep track of

Just because it's M doesn't mean you have to tweak every image.I usually don't change the settings, so M actually reduces the things to keep track of while providing consistent results from one shot to the other.Again, the ETTL of the flash compensates for small differences.

He has another book too, but this one is more appropriate for you. If his rumoured 600 EX RT book comes out I'd recommend that but it hasn't appeared yet and he now has a full time educators job.

Thanks privatebydesign for the link. I just purchased the material and will try to go through this weekend.

I'm interested getting some lighting for home studio. Not sure if I should get some 600ex rt or just regular studio set. I like the ideal of having speedlite so I can take with me if need it. Any suggestions? Thanks

For a home studio I think the Speedlite route is the way to go. They are nowhere near as powerful, but for most people they are way more practical.

Stands: Manfrotto 420, a boom stand should be everyone's first stand, then I really like the stacking Manfrottos at whatever size you like, I have the BAC 1052's.

Umbrella brackets: There are many but the Manfrotto 026 (?) is the industry standard. I'd go for metal ones over the poly and plastic ones.

Modifiers: This is where it gets involved, but I'd suggest a Westcott Apollo 26" softbox, I prefer them to the Lastolite style. A convertible umbrella. A 5-1 reflector around 36" and I really like the collapsible style 78" kits, they give you huge scrims as well as black and white backgrounds.

This gives you enough to play with and to see what kind of light you prefer and the direction you'd like to go in, without committing too much money to something you won't use in the future.

Get a couple of gel sample books from B&H too, they cost $2.50 and are so much fun, they also teach you a huge amount about where your light is going.

Logged

Too often we lose sight of the fact that photography is about capturing light, if we have the ability to take control of that light then we grow exponentially as photographers. More often than not the image is not about lens speed, sensor size, DR, MP's or AF, it is about the light.

The flash (600EX-RT) has arrived, so I've started mucking around to try and work out what all the buttons do (remember I am an amateur). I'm still reading Syl's book. I'm also chewing my way through the Speedlite manual. For now I think I will put the ST-E3-RT away and concentrate on working out on-camera flash. My first question is: what is the difference between ETTL mode and Ext.A? When would I choose one over the other? As far as I can work out, the only difference is that ETTL has the option of high speed sync.

I generally shoot in Av mode, as I like to set the depth of field. If I want to use the flash at it's most basic, essentially as the missing pop-up flash from my old 400D, presumably I would just leave it in ETTL and click away? I can then work my way into more sophisticated scenarios.

ETTL gives you inteligent through the lens metering of both background and subject, Ext.A is a throwback to guys like me who hated Canon's first implementation of ETTL (but we are now on ETTL II). Ext.A has a light sensitive sensor on the flash that when it is exposed to enough light, light that has been reflected back off the subject during the exposure, shuts off the flash in real time, kinda crazy cool, the trouble is it is comparatively easy to fool with reflective, or not, subjects etc so good control and estimation of FEC is important, its strength is its simplicity and consistency..

Ext.A has very limited, if any, use nowadays. It is far more productive to get a good working knowledge of ETTL II and its idiosyncrasies than anything else, particularly in dynamic situations.

Av mode for the camera, Speedlite in ETTL with HSS enabled is the beginners starter guide to speedlite fun.

Logged

Too often we lose sight of the fact that photography is about capturing light, if we have the ability to take control of that light then we grow exponentially as photographers. More often than not the image is not about lens speed, sensor size, DR, MP's or AF, it is about the light.

Your final goal should be Manual settings, with playing with av etc. along the way.Simple to remember, after lots of practice: Shutter Speed controls ambient light and Aperture controls flash.Sounds simple but sometimes difficult to get ones head around it.I shoot a number of community events, some weddings and some engagements, Kids, adults, some posing, most not.Settings when i shoot generally are manual : F5.6 (reasonable depth of field) and 160th (freeze motion for the ambient lit stuff). Then set the flash (580ex2) for ETTL. Point flash to ceiling or wall, have reflector card pulled out (so i get highlight in the eyes). people love my pics, the focused ones of course. so i must be doing something right.If it's a group, and i have not prepared with multiple lights, i increase the f stop, to give greater depth of field, slower shutter speed, say 100th, and let the flash work harder, still on ettl.

Next goal for you then is to have everything on manual, including you flash. But the above works REALLY well for me.For more stuff look for Joe Mcnally, Zack Arias, creativelive.com.LOTS of free stuff, that's how i learnt.

It disturbs me when people say that, especially to the inexperienced. Whilst it has some truth in that shutter speed does not affect flash power when below max sync, it is misleading in that aperture does affect ambient and flash (if the flash is in M and you don't change the power level).

Logged

Too often we lose sight of the fact that photography is about capturing light, if we have the ability to take control of that light then we grow exponentially as photographers. More often than not the image is not about lens speed, sensor size, DR, MP's or AF, it is about the light.

Thank you to all the great comments and advice. I think I am getting some early understanding of what I am supposed to be doing. I've read the Speedlite manual and now I understand at least the basic functions. I've had the same vibe as that given by PrivateByDesign that I really don't need to be fiddling with the Ext.A mode.

I'll continue to read through the various articles I've been pointed at and will keep experimenting, though I don't get anywhere near 40 shots a day, probably not even a month! I will even give M mode a try.

Too often we lose sight of the fact that photography is about capturing light, if we have the ability to take control of that light then we grow exponentially as photographers. More often than not the image is not about lens speed, sensor size, DR, MP's or AF, it is about the light.

It disturbs me when people say that, especially to the inexperienced. Whilst it has some truth in that shutter speed does not affect flash power when below max sync, it is misleading in that aperture does affect ambient and flash (if the flash is in M and you don't change the power level).

I would use M mode but I find there are already too many settings to keep track of

When using a flash, I'm always on M. Pretty much the only setting that I keep changing is flash power. Shutter, aperture, and ISO are more or less constant unless there's an effect I'm going for and even then, it's usually only shutter speed that needs adjusting.

This is CR forum at its best. I'm learning slot from this thread being a light beginner also.

I agree. So here is my first example:

I know the composition is awful and the background is fussy (but the subject is somewhat dear to me). I used the 24-70mm in Av mode (with the Camera set to keep the shutter between 1/60 and 1/200) and had the flash in simple ETTL mode, mounted on the camera and pointed straight ahead - i.e. in simple mode! I'm pretty happy with the result - it has had no post-processing beyond that which Aperture does on import.