Description

Comboys Don't Shoot Straight is a technical slab climb with thin, sharp holds and tricky feet. This is a worthwhile climb, or at least it was, but unfortunately someone has seen fit to chop all of the bolts except for the first one. This is particularly mean-spirited, as it lures unsuspecting folks up the speckled slab, where bolts are hard to see. Hopefully this route will be re-bolted, as it is does provide something a bit different for The Wild Iris. It is possible to toprope this from adjacent routes if you don't mind risking a bit of a swing.

Begin with cruxy slab moves up to an intermittent seam feature. Follow this seam up into a scoop up to the pocketed wall above. These pockets are a bit sharper than most at The Iris. There used to be an 11a extension (Pokey) through the groove in the roof above, but this also appears to have been chopped.

Location

Immediately right of Buffalo Soldier, beginning just left of a juniper tree that grows against the wall.

Protection

Currently this route is chopped. There is one bolt at the start, but no others. It is possible to toprope this from the anchors of Buffalo Soldier or Ambush in the Night (this anchor is closer).

I climbed it today and the anchors are now above the crack/bulge feature. I thought the rock on the upper bulge was slightly chossy and a little more difficult than 5.10c. Personally, I would have left the anchors below the bulge. Either way its a pretty fun climb. (There are lowering hooks at the top.