The Nikon Creative Lighting System offers a comprehensive selection of revolutionary portable tools to match virtually any need. Whether used for simple on-camera use at a family gathering or in multiple wireless off-camera arrays, Nikon flashes operate in perfect concert with Nikon’s CLS compatible cameras.

Nikon imaging software is as important to imaging excellence as the quality of NIKKOR lenses and the capabilities of Nikon cameras. Powerful, sophisticated Nikon software—a vital link in the chain of creative control of the imaging process.

Whatever your level of experience and with whatever camera brand you shoot, there's a class for you! We will inspire you, help you master new techniques and improve your picture-taking skills by providing clear, direct information on a wide range of technical and creative topics.

Nikon Sport Optics

From casual weekend outings to rainforest excursions to the safari trip of a lifetime, Nikon Sport Optics give you the ability to clearly view every detail in crisp, brilliant color at a respectful distance. Choose from the range of legendary Nikon optics—binoculars, scopes, rangefinders, digiscoping adapters and accessories—for your viewing needs.

Archived Products

As we develop exciting new products, some older products inevitably must be retired, no matter how beloved. Never to be forgotten, we maintain the key information for these products—tech specs, user manuals and more.

DVDs & Books

Nikon Ambassadors are some of the most talented and influential visual artists working in the business today. From workshops to trade show platforms, online learning and social media; Nikon Ambassadors represent the most versatile and ambitious photographers today.

Photography Glossary

Nikon Imaging Apps

Nikon Apps include educational apps such as the Learn & Explore, NIKKOR and ACC and Manual Reader 2 apps, as well as the Nikon Image Space image sharing app and apps for connecting select cameras to a compatible smartphone or tablet via Wi-Fi (WMU and Connect to S810c).

Learn & Explore Tip of the Day

August 2, 2015

Use a polarizing filter to lessen or eliminate reflections from glass. This works really well on windows of stores or cars. But the trade-off is that your exposure will be a bit longer, as the light is cut down by almost two stops.

On photo sharing sites like Flickr you can often view the details of a photograph and take a look at the shutter speed, aperture, ISO and other settings. While this won’t teach you how to create a photo from scratch it will show you what technical choices photographers made to capture their images.

If your COOLPIX camera or NIKKOR lens has image stabilization (Nikon calls it Vibration Reduction), know when to use it and when to turn it off. If you don’t know how your stabilization system works, turn it off when you’re shooting with a tripod. If it doesn’t sense that the camera is solidly mounted, it can add movement while trying to reduce blur.

Always use your lens hood (if you have one) or buy a lens hood (if you don’t). The lens hood isn’t just good for preventing flare. It can keep you from losing the contrast of your images as well as protect your front lens element from raindrops too.

When shooting a portrait of an athlete, use fill flash (or flash turned on even in daylight) to light up the shadow areas under a hat or helmet. This will balance the light from the entire scene and light up the face. On a compact camera, the setting to choose is "Flash On."

Look around you when you’re shooting at sunset. The objects that look boring during the day magically come to life when the rays of the sun hit them. Buildings, cars and anything reflective take on a special quality at sunset.

If your camera can capture images in both RAW and JPEG format, do so even if you don’t work with RAW images now. These RAW files have the highest image quality possible, so you can edit them years from now and be sure you’re getting the best looking image possible.

Shooting a lightning storm can be exciting. Use a tripod and set you camera to record a long exposure. With DSLRs, 15 seconds is a good start, but you may have to use up to 30 seconds, or bulb setting (where the shutter stays open as long as you hold down the shutter button). Because you never know when the lightning will occur, keep shooting for best results. Remember to always keep a safe distance, and don’t forget the tripod to avoid blurry photos!

Take a self-portrait each day for a week or month (or a year). It’s harder than you think to take an attractive photo of yourself, and if you do it for long enough you’ll have an interesting series that shows how you’ve changed over time.

Look on photo sharing sites for inspiration for your next photo shoot. Pick a subject you want to photograph or a location and search for photos of that. You’ll see a wide array of different techniques and styles that will inspire you.

Don’t stop shooting after the action has finished in sports. Get in close on a happy or sad face … a celebration after a goal … or the dejection on the sideline after a loss. The emotion of the game speaks volumes and can really round out a series of pictures.

If you live in a city or near a big photo store, find a photographic rental house and rent a lens that you don’t have. Take a telephoto lens to a ball game or rent a wide-angle lens and take it camping. This will give you a chance to try a new piece of equipment and expand your photographic horizons.

You should format the memory card in your camera on a regular basis. By using the camera’s built-in “Format” function, found in the menus, you lessen the chance of having card problems in the future. Doing so is better than just deleting the images using the camera or the computer.

Take a step back. No, farther back. See what the scene looks like from far away to get perspective. Walk around it, to see it from different angles. There’s a tendency to rush up to something and take a photo, but if you look at it from different angles you’re more likely to find something you would otherwise have missed.

Most cameras with built-in flashes have a red-eye reduction setting that fire several quick pre-flashes before the main burst of light. Turn this off if you’re not photographing people because it drains the battery and doesn’t help light up your scene.

Make a great team picture. Get the team together in front of a nice background—maybe the goal, the net or the team logo on the field or floor. Shoot the ordinary, and then let the kids have some fun, making faces or funny poses. That’s the one they will always remember.

At a wedding, watch what the photographer is doing and pick something different to shoot. If the photographer is shooting the cake cutting, take pictures of the band. If the photographer is shooting the bouquet toss with a wide-angle lens from behind the bride, use a telephoto to capture people trying to catch the flowers. You’ll capture a part of the wedding that wouldn’t have been documented otherwise.

It’s always best to shoot group pictures in a location that tells something about the people. For example, shoot the sports team on the field instead of the parking lot. Try to think about how the background, or setting, adds to the story of who they are.

Do some photography pro bono. Find a charitable organization in your area that can’t afford a photographer and offer your services for free. The group will end up with a precious resource it wouldn’t have had access to; and photos of an event or service the organization provides can help it get funding.

Try to buy the fast and large memory cards. Speed ratings on the cards are important for live action shots, especially when you’re shooting in sports or continuous scene modes, or at the highest frame rate. That will allow the camera to shoot at its fastest frame rate with little worry the camera will have to pause to offload images to the card.

Freeze the sports action. The key is using a high shutter speed. On compact cameras, use the sports scene mode. On a DSLR, pick a high shutter speed of 1/500th of a second or above. This will freeze almost all action. If the light is low, adjust your ISO to a higher sensitivity (800-1600 ISO), which will allow you to select a faster shutter speed.

Place your subjects equally away from the camera when shooting a group. Avoid placing any of your subjects a lot closer to your camera than others. That can lead to some of your family members being out of focus or just looking a little out of the mix.

Babies are great subjects because they’re so darn cute. Focus on the teeny body parts with a macro lens. Pudgy hands, small ears, and teeny elbows—they’re even cuter when they’re the subjects of your photo.

Use a small flashlight to light up a scene. Put one behind or under an object at night to create an interesting glow or use it instead of a flash. Take long-exposure shots using a flash as a light source and you can create interesting glowing sections of your photos.

Photographing at the zoo? Careful composition can hide the fact that your wild animal subjects are behind fences or in pens. Zoom in for tight close-ups so you don’t see man-made objects like fence posts, concrete swimming holes or perches for the animals to play on.

When photographing cars, try getting a different perspective. Use a wide-angle lens to capture the hood ornament with the hood stretched out behind. Get low and shoot up on the car. Grab a ladder and shoot a bird’s eye view. You’ll create a photograph that captures a car as art.

When shooting nighttime landscapes, use a low ISO (400 or below if possible) while working from a tripod. Open your aperture to F/4 or F/5.6. This will allow you to have a shot full of detail and of good quality. Remember that night shots need a subject, just like day shots.

Corporate Profile

Nikon is the world leader in digital imaging, precision optics and photo imaging technology and is globally recognized for setting new standards in product design and performance. The unique strength of the Nikon brand attributable to the company’s unwavering commitment to quality, performance, technology and innovation. Nikon Inc. markets and distributes consumer and professional digital SLR cameras, NIKKOR optics, Speedlights…

For creativity that has no limits.

Introducing Nikon 1 V2, with the exceptional speed and performance of the Nikon 1 system, plus pro-style enhancements for greater creativity, flexibility, comfort and control. It has a grip for familiar shooting comfort, a built-in flash for manipulating the lighting of your images, new Best Moment Capture modes for catching exactly the right shots, PSAM exposure modes right on the dial and much more—all in a very compact size. For passionate shooters who want more control of their photos, Nikon 1 V2 delivers.

Freeze the perfect instant

Slow down the action and get the best of what's seen

The best moments are made (and missed) in an instant. But imagine being able to slow down a moment while it's happening—to see live action in slow motion. With Nikon 1 V2's amazing new Slow View mode, that's exactly what happens. See the world in slow motion through the viewfinder, then easily grab the shot you want. Combine that with Smart Photo Selector, which fires 20 shots with a single shutter press and selects the best five for you, and you've got every advantage for catching life's best moments.

Put your creativity in motion

Tell richer stories with Motion Snapshot and Advanced Movie Mode

Nikon 1's popular Motion Snapshot blends motion, stills and sound to capture the essence of a moment like never before. With a single press of the shutter button, Nikon 1 V2 captures a short slow-motion movie sequence plus a single defining still image. Those elements are merged into a unique 10-second expression that can easily be shared in .mov or .nms formats. Even add background music to set the mood of that special moment. For video enthusiasts, Nikon 1 V2 features a new Advanced Movie Mode. Maintain PSAM exposure control while recording 1080p Full HD video with stereo sound. Smoothly track your subjects like a pro, even as the lighting changes.

Create at the speed of life

Capture your world with unrivaled speed, precision and clarity

At the center of Nikon 1's success is its remarkable Advanced Hybrid Autofocus System offering both phase (73-point) and contrast-detection (135-point) autofocus. It zeroes in on subjects with such speed and precision, you'll never miss a shot. With Nikon 1 V2, you can harness that precision at a blazing fast 15 frames per second continuous shooting! When you divide one second of motion into 15 individual photos, you'll catch amazing views you've never seen. And every one of those photos will be exceptional, thanks to Nikon 1 V2's 14.2 megapixel CMOS sensor.

Conveniently share with Wi-Fi connectivity

Connect the optional WU-1b Wireless Adapter to the Nikon 1 V2 and wirelessly transfer photos to your smartphone, tablet or any compatible Wi-Fi enabled device±. Use your smartphone to instantly upload your shots to the web or email them to a friend. Install Nikon's free Wireless Mobile Adapter Utility Android™- or iOS-powered app and remotely control the Nikon 1 V2—see what the camera sees from your smartphone or tablet and fire off shots!

Take control of your shooting

When you want more control of Nikon 1 V2, everything you need is at your fingertips. Adjust key settings like ISO and White Balance with minimal button presses. Conveniently access PSAM modes right from the camera's mode dial. When you're in a PSAM mode, the new Command dial lets you quickly toggle between key settings for that specific mode—without taking your eye from the viewfinder.

See how your shots will look

Now when you're framing a shot, you can see exactly how your end-result photo will look. Live Image Control gives you a real-time preview of your image based on the current camera settings. Using the Command dial, you can adjust the contrast or brightness, blur the background, even show movement—all during preview. Once you've got the shot you want, simply press the shutter button and save it forever.

Sacrifice nothing for size

Among the smallest interchangeable lens cameras available, the Nikon 1 V2 gives up nothing for size. Its body grip, built-in flash and electronic viewfinder are familiar comforts to traditional shooters, while its exceptional speed, sleek, minimal design and ultra-high-resolution LCD display push the limits of small camera performance.

Build your ultimate camera system

Enhance your creativity and capabilities with a growing lineup of superior 1 NIKKOR lenses and Nikon 1 accessories. The Nikon 1 V2 includes an accessory hotshoe port, so you can add a Nikon 1 Speedlight and discover the power of Nikon's creative lighting system, a GPS module for adding location data to photos, an external stereo microphone and more.

± WI-FI COMPATIBILITY

This camera's Wi-Fi® capability using the WU-1b Wireless Mobile Adapter can only be used with a compatible iPhone®, iPad®, and/or iPod touch® or smart devices running on the Android™ operating system. The Wireless Mobile Utility application must be installed on the device before it can be used with this camera. For compatibility and to download the application, please visit:

Apple, the Apple logo, iPhone, iPad and iPod touch are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Android and Google Play are trademarks of Google Inc. Wi-Fi® and the Wi-Fi CERTIFIED logo are registered trademarks of the Wi-Fi Alliance. All Nikon trademarks are trademarks of Nikon Corporation.

Loving it!!!
I'm a fulltime pro and shoot the D3s and D3...
I've been waiting for a camera like this to take out when I just want something more than a point and shoot but way less than a DSLR. This is a very light and discreet and CAPABLE camera if you use it right. I'm having no issue with the files at iso 1600 and even 3200. The focus is great and I love that you can adjust the power of the flash very easily as well. The quality of the viewfinder and screen is superb.
You have to manage your expectations... This is not a D3 or a D4 or a D300... BUT given the size and the ease of use, I'd say it's a pretty cool camera!!!
December 22, 2012

Amazing!!!
I love, love, love this camera!! I am a mother of 2 small children and this camera is perfect! I've only had it for two days and already know how to use all of it great features. It is so easy to use! One of my favorite features is the ability to take video and pictures at the same time. This has always been the delima in the past. Do I want to video this moment or take pictures? Now I don't have to choose. My kids met Santa yesterday and I was able to catch the whole event on video and take great pictures too!
I did also purchase the 18.5 mm f/1.8 lens which gives you great pictures in low light with soft buttery backgrounds. If you have fast moving kids and want to capture the best moments, this camera is for you!! It is totally worth the investment.
December 16, 2012

Excellence in a compact box.
First, this is camera that takes excellent photographs. The compact size and light weight are two more attributes that make this camera desirable to someone who wants flexibility without bulk. The V2 provides multiple options for capturing subjects as you imagine them turning out.
Although I take more than 98% still images the video works better than expected.
Using the GPS option is a treat. The GP N100 unit is quite quick to lock on and ready to go with excellent accuracy.
The built in flash is adequate for more modest work, but I am looking forward to using the new Nikon flash when available
January 3, 2013

Great to pair with FT-1 for nature and birding
My main intent with buying the Nikon 1 V2 is to use this camera to get an increased equivalent field of view and use it for nature and bird photography when my regular gear just doesn’t have the reach. My main set up is the Nikon 1 V2 with FT-1 adapter...70-200 f/4 VR and TC-17E II teleconverter. The equivalent field of view with this set up is 918mm at f/6.7
Here are some initial thoughts after shooting several hundred bird shots the past couple of days:
1) Pairing the V2 with the 70-200 f/4 and TC-17E II is simply awesome. The EFOV is 918mm at f/6.7. The VR on the 70-200 is so good that I have been able to get good, sharp images hand-held at 1/200 and 1/250 without any problems….as long as the subject isn’t moving around obviously. Focus is very fast and accurate. I’ve never shot with an EFOV this long before and I’ve not been able to get birds in flight….at least not yet….likely my skill level….and lack of familiarity with the camera. With the FT-1 you are limited to one centre focus point…but for birds I don’t think this is an issue. Also, no burst shooting with the FT-1 either. When the V2 misses focus it misses it completely and hunts for quite a while to lock on….so I think its usefulness for birds in flight is extremely limited.
2) ISO performance from the CX sensor is good to 400 then it starts to get grainy at ISO800 and quite noisy at ISO1600. Even lower ISO shots do have a bit of a film-like grain to them….but not in a distracting way. Nik’s Define 2 does a nice job with RAW files from the V2. If people can keep their shots at 400 and under they should be very happy with the performance…..and going up to ISO800 is certainly OK. Personally I would not go to ISO1600 or higher unless it was a really special shot and I had no choice.
3) Jpegs are noisy even at base ISO and I find them unusable for any kind of enlargement. They just seem to clog up in the shadow areas. The RAW files are considerably better and hold up quite well in post. I found that DxOMark Optics Pro8 is better than Photoshop for my initial processing….the RAW files just seem to react better to the Optics Pro8 presets. After running the RAW files through Optics Pro8 I tweak them a bit further in Photoshop and then Nik. You can get pretty decent final images but it does take some time in post.
4) The dynamic range obviously falls far short of my D7000 and D800 so highlights are very easy to clip with the V2. I tried to underexpose by -1/3 and it’s not enough. I have a feeling that on bright days going to -1 may be needed to try and hold onto the highlights. The shadows hold some detail….not nearly as much as a DX or FX sensor and you can only push them so far before noise is a real issue….so high contrast scenes will cause some loss that is inescapable.
5) The FT-1 adapter is solid and very easy to use. It is an amazing feat of engineering since you get a 2.7X crop factor with NO LOSS OF LIGHT on the V2! Using my 70-200 on it gives me an EFOV of 189-540 at f/4! And…with the TC-17E II it is 321 to 918 at f/6.7. As long as you shoot at ISO400 or under the RAW files are quite good. Think of the V2 as a 2.7X teleconverter for you FX lenses.
6) While the body may look a little ‘lumpy’ with the kit lens….it actually looks like a mini dslr when used with the FT-1 and I find it quite appealing visually.
7) The viewfinder is quite good and as you put it up to your eye it automatically shuts off the LCD screen. It feels like I’m shooting with a mini dslr and is very comfortable. The new hand grip is a great feature since the camera is a flyweight and some extra gripping area is needed especially with a zoom and the FT-1 mounted on it.
8) The AF on your FX and DX lenses will continually hunt when the V2 is turned on….even when you are not trying to take a pic….so I find that I click the AF and VR off between shots…or just turn off the camera since the battery life is quite limited…..a little over 300 shots. A spare battery is a must. The camera boots back up very quickly so I typically turn it off between shots.
9) The manual mode dial works well and anyone familiar with shooting a Nikon dslr will feel at home.
10) I think as more nature and bird photographers investigate the V2 with the FT-1 they will find it to be a very practical and well performing combination when shooting in good light where a longer EFOV is required…as long as they understand the camera’s limitations. This is where the CX sensor and its 2.7X crop factor is a huge advantage. The bump up to 14MP from 10MP on the V1 really helps with finished image size. I took a few hundred shots this weekend and played around with a few dozen of the best ones. My smallest useable image ended up being 4.3MP after cropping….another one was 6.5MP and all the rest were over 8mp…with over 80% being 10Mp or larger. Almost all the shots I took were at 918mm EFOV….it was so much easier than trying to get up too close and scaring subjects away.
Like any photographic tool it’s good to understand the strengths and weaknesses of any piece of gear. This is NOT a camera with good jpegs or to be shot at higher ISOs…or in high contrast situations…but…..I would highly recommend the V2/FT-1 combination for anyone looking for increased EFOV when shooting in good light for their FX or DX lenses. To me….the V2 is perfect for nature and birding shooters…..other people are probably better served with the J series part of the Nikon 1 line.
September 3, 2013

Good upgrade from V1
Four features I really like are fast autofocus, small size, viewfinder ( a must have for me) , and silent shutter. Half of my photography is street or indoor public photos so that silent shutter is great! Wish it had tilt or flip out screen. Hip shooting is awkward as a result. IQ is acceptable IMO. Some reviews on the internet bash the looks of this camera but for me its about function. Overall I think Nikon is on track with this camera.
January 3, 2013

If it ain't broke...
I'm thinking of buying *another* V1 to have forever for when my current one eventually dies. The way the V2 is, it doesn't look good for the V3, so the V1 may indeed be "the last camera" I'll ever want.
Having the V2, here are my problems with it (appearance is not one of them)
1 - switched to the J1 battery
Tragic mistake!
2 - the increase in megapixels wasn't tracked by the processor strength, so the Image Viewer is jittery.
The V1 is so smooth you can't tell you're looking at a display; it looks like you're just "looking at the scene" through glass. The V2 is delayed and you can see it update.
3 - the display, in its attempt to show you a more accurate representation of what the final image will look like, ends up being covered with excessive noise in most cases.
The fact is that "static" noise in a final picture is not so distracting, when compared with the "each frame is different" noise of a live display. This is the result of Nikon's choice to show the actual processed image in the display, instead of simply a raw rendition of the incoming signal. It's a step backward for usability, really, as the static is like watching static on a tv screen - buzzing constantly - and is very very distracting.
4 - The PASM dial is poorly designed.
Rather than give each item an ergonomically-pleasing angular range, they evenly divided the 360 degrees of the wheel amongst the available options. The result is that there is a) absolutely no way to "feel" where you are on the dial (unlike the excellent, if poorly located, dial on the V1), and b) you have to make *massive* movement to switch between each setting. Going all the way from the last to the first setting is a full 360 rotation, which is basically unbearable.
5 - Factual camera terminology like "Aperture" has been replaced by "user-friendly" language like "background softening", which is just strange, counter-intuitive, and ultimately counter-productive.
This is helping one perhaps adjust for a good shot but without understanding the "why" and "how" of what's happening with the device. Maybe I'm just a gearhead, and what I'm arguing essentially amounts to saying cars should say "tire rotations/h*vehicularAdjustmentFactor" instead of "speed" (re: "f-stop" vs "background softening"), but I think it's silly. On the J or S series, maybe this would make sense, but the V is the "pro" line of the 1 series.
6 - Worst of all, Nikon consolidated all the sound options into a single setting called "Silent Photography".
So, if you want to turn off the *inane* "beep beep boop beep" sounds some sound flunkie picked for "this means autofocus is complete", you also have to turn off the physical shutter, and if you want the classic, Nikon shutter sound, you have to listen to all the little fake electronic sounds of pressing buttons and things. Absolutely no thought was given to the fact that a) artificial sounds and real sounds are not the same thing, b) some people want one kind of sound or another, or even (goodness no!) to turn on and off *specific* sounds (as was the case on the V1), but most egregiously c), the fact that the "Nikon shutter" is a marketing point, something they should embrace, considering the J doesn't even *have* a physical shutter. In the movie "The Dilemma", the main characters are getting a huge contract from a car company to put the muscle-car sound and feel *back in* to their electric sports car; Nikon has just removed that asset on purpose, for nothing.
I waited anxiously for months for the V2, because the V1 is so surprisingly good and once battle-tested just needed a few tweaks. Instead, we get a completely new camera which - while it did improve on many points - unfortunately broke things which were excellent before being "fixed".
July 31, 2013

expensive point and shoot
After about 50 days of use I feel let down. For the price you can almost buy a D3300, which is not much bigger and takes vastly superior photos. With the 10-100 PD lens, the video is decent with the V2; but not good enough considering the $1300 USD price tag. The image quality with the kit lens, on the other hand, is only equivalent to a mid range point and shoot. Long story short: disappointing and expensive.
February 28, 2014

Expensive Toy no match for true DSLR
If these cameras were much less in price I could see some niche for them, however there no match for a comparable real DLSR with a image sensor more than double the size and much better quality photo especially in low light. The ISO topping off at 6400 is just not enough for 800 bucks. Id wait to see if these new mirrorless types make it past the holidays and keep there high pricing before investing in a exclusive venture such as this versus Canon, Nikon and Sony DSLR cameras that have much more to offer for the price.
December 11, 2012

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Answers

+1point

1out of1found this answer helpful.

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I also asked the Pocketwizard people and they said:"While the mirrorless cameras are definitely gaining in popularity, at this point we do not plan to make our radios compatible in TTL mode. We are keeping an eye on customer demand and if it is high enough, we may consider it. If it had a standard hot shoe, you could use it in Basic Trigger mode, but it appears to use the same specialized shoe the V1 uses."

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Answers

+1point

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There aren't any lenses in the current 1Nikkor line that have a minimum aperture smaller than f/16. In order to have any of the Nikon1 cameras go past f/16 you would need to use the FT-1 Mount adapter and an F-mount lens that has a wider aperture range. For a list of F-mount lenses compatible with the FT-1 mount for Nikon1 cameras go to http://support.nikonusa.com/app/ans...

New 1Nikkor lenses are expected to be released in 2013 but final specifications of those lenses have yet to be released.

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The lens minimum aperature varies depending on the type of lens that is attached. The lens that you have attached cannot close any further than F16 which is why the aperature on the J1 is not going beyond F16.

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Unfortunately Nikon cannot speculate about future products until official information is announced on our web site: www.nikonusa.com.

The currently announced kits for the V2 are the one lens kit with the 1 NIKKOR 10-30mm f/3.5 – 5.6 VR lens and the 2 lens kit with the 1 NIKKOR 10-30mm f/3.5 – 5.6 VR lens and the 1 NIKKOR 30-110mm f/3.8 – 5.6 VR Black lens.

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When using the FT1 adapter on the V2 the camera must be set to AF-S (the camera will not focus in other autofocus modes) and autofocus is only available with AF-S lenses. The only AF area mode available is Single-point and the camera focuses on the subject in the center focus area only. Face priority is not supported.

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The operating environment for the Nikon1 V2 is 00 °C–40 °C (+32 °F–104 °F) with humidity at 85% or less (no condensation).

The Nikon1 V2 is not waterproof and may malfunction if exposed to high levels of humidity so it should be protected from snow. Extreme temperature change can cause condensation inside the camera body. When taking the camera to a very cold place, or from hot to cold, place it inside an airtight container such as a plastic bag and leave it inside the bag for awhile to expose the camera gradually to the temperature change.

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Do new "Nikon 1 V2" camera have High Definition (HD) for shooting that picture is HD (not want Standard Definition)???I understood that Nikon 1 V2 have HD movie (video) too.

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