See it live

Full Cura 2.5 integration

Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer.

Tried and tested

Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more.

The Mark2 website

ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade.

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my "problem" is that i have an UMO (no plus) and would love to mod it to a Mark2 but not sure where to start.

- upgrade hotend and feeder to an um2+ x2 (if that is possible)

- simply use a double UMO hotend (eg i have the old dual extrusion kit is that possible to reuse it?)

- do i need the umo+ electronics ?

First, I think it's certainly doable.

Lets start with firmware/electronics. @tinkergnome how difficult will it be to run it on the UMO board, assuming the rest of the machine is setup like the UM2, with same endstop positions,sliderblocks, UM2 hotend etc...?

Regarding hardware I think converting to the UM2 hotend is the most reliable way to go, @neotko can you share the link to the conversion you did?

The only issue I see hardware wise is that the 25W heaters 24V using 2 of them on a 19V old UMO board 1.5.X might get tricky. @amedee is much more an expert than me on UMO hardware and he's the @tinkergnome equivalent of UMO/UMO+

The only issue I see hardware wise is that the 25W heaters 24V using 2 of them on a 19V old UMO board 1.5.X might get tricky. @amedee is much more an expert than me on UMO hardware and he's the @tinkergnome equivalent of UMO/UMO+

So getting a china 75,- UM2 board is probably the easiest option? though you would also need a new power supply. It would save you 2x a pt100 board which would be needed to use the old UMO board.

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There is actually little advantage (not to say zero) in moving from a 1.5.x to a 2.1x board for this purpose.

It is very reliable, probably much more than a Chinese 2.1.

Running the board at 24v is not an issue either (just change the step-down to power the Arduino); PT100 are doing fine as well with the E3D adapter.

The real issue is probably the firmware, as one need to backport the changes done for the UM2.

Another potential issue is that the X/Y axes are inverted on the UMO, so they might be in the way for the docked head.

Having said that, one should consider the total cost of the operation, an UM2 head upgrade + the second head + the mods is not a small budget for an experimental setup. It might be wiser to start from an UM2 and go with a proven solution...

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Just visited the website. Great tutorial! When the second extruder arrives, i will test and post pics.

Quick question. I have the UM2+ extended. Which firmware should I use:

Mark2-dual-ext-17.02.2.hex

Or

Tinker-Mark2-extended-dual-17.02.2.hex

I don't know if there are any differences?

The one with TINKER in the name is like the tinker firmware you may already know, it provides much more information in the display compared to regular Ultimaker firmware. The other is the regular Ultimaker firmware, with the Mark2 functionality added.

Well, and there are extra movements before and after a tool change occasionally generated by Cura, which we think are not necessary (in our case). Like extruder 2 travelling to a place just been visited by extruder 1 before moving to its "real" starting position.

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You mean your 2th hotend has the old fixed UM2 block and not the olsson block?

I see a few options;

- change to an olsson block on the 2th also

- adjust the plastic part of the head the be a few mm lower

Do you know how to do CAD, the .stp files are on github. Let me know if I need to do it for you if you want option2, I can do it in the weekend, if needed tell me how many MM you need it to be lower, take a bit of a margin so it will most likely also work for other users...

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You mean your 2th hotend has the old fixed UM2 block and not the olsson block?

I see a few options;

- change to an olsson block on the 2th also

- adjust the plastic part of the head the be a few mm lower

Do you know how to do CAD, the .stp files are on github. Let me know if I need to do it for you if you want option2, I can do it in the weekend, if needed tell me how many MM you need it to be lower, take a bit of a margin so it will most likely also work for other users...

At this moment i put 5mm between the plastic part and the hotend unit. Works.

So 5mm would do it for me, then there is 3mm of difference (second is lower now)

I use 123d design, which cant read the files. If you could do it...

In the end, if everything works out, i will buy a second olsson and bondtech extruder.

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You mean your 2th hotend has the old fixed UM2 block and not the olsson block?

I see a few options;

- change to an olsson block on the 2th also

- adjust the plastic part of the head the be a few mm lower

Do you know how to do CAD, the .stp files are on github. Let me know if I need to do it for you if you want option2, I can do it in the weekend, if needed tell me how many MM you need it to be lower, take a bit of a margin so it will most likely also work for other users...

At this moment i put 5mm between the plastic part and the hotend unit. Works.

So 5mm would do it for me, then there is 3mm of difference (second is lower now)

I use 123d design, which cant read the files. If you could do it...

In the end, if everything works out, i will buy a second olsson and bondtech extruder.

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We're not only trying to always make Ultimaker Cura better with the usual new features and improvements we build, but we're also trying to make it more pleasant to operate. The interface was the focus for the upcoming release, from which we would already like to present you the first glance.

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