“Top Chef” Season One
survivor Dave Martin takes
us back to the beginning of a
reality phenomenon.

GASTRONOMY

Molecular Gastronomy. It
looks harder than it is. It
sounds even harder than it
looks. We’ve reinterpreted
the turducken, invented the
seasons first ‘snowfall’ and
created the world’s cheapest
‘caviar’ out of cranberry juice
and vodka.
Endgame = you’ll be the
Walter White of food.

“I’m not Wolfgang Puck.
That’s someone that I look
up to. A Top Chef to me is not
a celebrity, it’s just not the
same. Emeril, Rachel, those
are people in that mold.
Someone that’s just rolling
off of Top Chef, you’re not a
fucking celebrity.”

28 READ ME

Thanksgiving Bookshelf

Since we take our
Thanksgiving gorging very
seriously, we don’t believe
that our holiday cheer can be
contained within the pages of
just one cookbook.
Thanksgiving does not have
to be about turkey. Plenty of
other animals can be stuffed,
smoked, seared, sous vide,
roasted and deep fried.

NOVEMBER /Inaugural Issue

4
5
6
8
15
16
19
26
28
30

Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Letter
The Sauce
Drink Me
Home Ec-ular Gastronomy
The Centerfold
Eat Me
The Interview
The Street
Read Me
Around The Web

CONTACT US:

PlateItMag.com
Facebook.com/PlateIt
@PlateItMag
3

PlateIt Magazine is the love child of a food writer
and culinary marketing insider who have an
uncontrollable desire to share everything we know
about food with everyone we know, and even those
that we don’t know yet. We simply have to tell
you about our favorite gadgets, restaurants, bars,
cookbooks...or we will burst.
You’ll also find product reviews, in-depth interviews
and tempting recipes, lovingly plated up just for
you. This is your official invitation to embrace
every gluttonous instinct within a community of
gastronomic pleasure seekers, wrapped up in pretty
packaging that visually focuses on what’s most
important to all of us...the food!
We consider eating to be a complete sensory
experience, whether at home or out and about. We
pay attention to the music in a restaurant, notice the
design elements, the color scheme, the paintings
and photography on the walls…our plan is to explore
the growing intersection between the culinary and
creative arts, always in search of je ne sais quoi
instead of je ne sais blah.
Most importantly, we love the hard-working men
and women of the culinary world who basically
give up any semblance of a social life to cook for us
in steamy, sweaty kitchens. Thank you, chefs, for
feeding us so gloriously, and allowing us to see your
artistic soul on a plate.
We are a small operation running on love, booze,
and our last good meal...and you are always
welcome at our table!

Lesley Elliott
Editor-In-Chief

4 | November 2013

Rachel Waynberg
Creative Director

So who are we really? We are lusty gluttons
with a lifetime membership to the clean
plate club. We live to eat, so if our 401K’s
look lean, it’s because we consume too
much food and booze in general, and
wholeheartedly plan to do it over and over
again (our intestines are chock full of salary
byproduct).
We’ve never met a pork product we didn’t
fall hard for. We don’t ask for “dressing on
the side,” and we are never embarrassed to
take home leftovers (um, what else do you
eat the morning after?).
We hope that the more you get to know us,
the more you’ll love us. However, since this
is a first date, we’ll start with the basics.

The Sauce? What is the sauce? Well, it’s a lot like love (or cheese) in that it makes
whatever exists in nature that is already wonderful even better, eclipsing all other
previous notions of tasty.
For our first attempt at smothering you with saucy affection, we’ve stayed close to
our roots, focusing on foodstuffs originating in our own backyard…paying a little
holiday homage to companies within the great state of New York.

This past spring, the
Boyajian’s maple vinegar
condiment company that
($7.25) will add a sweet and
brought us the white knight
sour element to any kind of yam
among ketchups launched
dish, but this is also great for a
a mayonnaise extension
cranberry-apple compote, or to
line, including both a
dress up the traditional
creamy white “classic” and
cranberry sauce. For a lazy
spicy chipotle version ($7).
man’s injection of holiday, just
Either one of Sir Kensington’s mayos will
drizzle on the starter salad to
magically transform your turkey leftovers
properly Thanksgiving-ify.
into a dreamy day after club sandwich.
If you hear
Vamp up holiday flavor
artisanal chocolate
by replacing basic olive
and then
or canola oils with Stony
automatically think
Brook’s assortment of
Poughkeepsie,
unrefined oils ($11.95 you are not alone.
$13.95) that begin with
Scratch that, you
chemical free seeds
are alone. We
(harvested from upstate
were shocked to find that the beautiful
New York farms raising
bar of dark chocolate-coated Fall is
baby veggies sans
made by a husband and wife team in the
genetic modification).
heart of the Valley. Hudson Chocolates
From pumpkin to
Terrior Bar is loaded with candied apples,
butternut to delicata squash, they are
toasted pecans, cranberries and pumpkin
the only squash seed oil producers in the seeds, all buried within cinnamon
U.S. that are using 100% locally grown
ganache ($34). The pumpkin pie will be
ingredients.
jealous.

5

DRINK ME

The Ins + Outs of Boozing

We love bartenders for their magical ability to transform the basic experience of
drinking into ‘cocktailing,’ so if you are also a boozehound in search of the best,
here’s where you’ll find it!

High Rooftop Lounge

Venice Beach, CA
With a picture perfect view of the Pacific
Ocean, this bar on the roof of the Hotel Erwin
is equipped with big fleece-y blankets to keep
you cozy while sunset scoping. Make a table
reservation if you can (this is the only place in
Venice that has that beautiful panorama) but
even those without pre-plans can hover in a
nook by the tiny bar. We love the “stay warm”
section on their cocktail menu, completely
fall-erific.
what to drink: Our picks are the Ginger-Pear
Toddy made with Woodford Reserve, Canton
and Xante Pear Liqueur, as well as the Spiked
Cocoa, topped with a mound of whipped
cream.

instantly tame any spicy snacks served; this
younger cousin of Pok Pok is where you’ll
find kap klaem (the small plate oriented,
“drinking food of Thailand”) on the menu.
The grapefruit based Hunny is a winner too,
using the restaurant’s homemade Som Honey
drinking vinegar for a dose of cocktail umami
cool.

Pouring Ribbons

Alphabet City, NY
The doorman standing outside looks
intimidating, he’s big, and could crush your
head between his forefingers. It’s all a ruse,
he’s the nicest guy, just tell him how many
are in your pack and ask him how his night
is going. In fact, the laid back vibe of this
speakeasy in general is what makes it one of
Whiskey Soda Lounge
our faves. No one here is checking out your
Brooklyn, NY
Andy Ricker’s answer to the question of what fabulousness, everyone’s just drinking damn
good cocktails with friends. We also love the
to do during the two hour wait for Pok Pok,
comes forth in the shape of a bar whose decor drink menu matrix, sort of a cocktail Ouija
board…are you looking for refreshment,
reminds us of our coolest friend’s basement
in high school (well, that party room probably comfort or an adventure? (There’s no wrong
answer here.)
wasn’t been blessed by Monks, this one is).
what to drink: They have a LONG list
It’s a busy scene, and if you can’t get a table,
of inventive drinks with enticing names,
be aware that there is a loose rule about
which we love, but classics like the Sidecar,
standing in line to order drinks, as opposed
Manhattan and Old Fashion are executed
to just clamoring about the bar. Upside - this
perfectly by a bartender who really does want
makes for organization of drunk people, but
to know what bourbon or whiskey you prefer.
the downside can involve a long, dry wait
If you are a fan of chartreuse, your yearning
time. It’s worth it.
what to drink: We dig the Mango Alexander ends here, with an impressive array of both
the green and yellow variety.
with coconut cream for it’s ability to
6 | November 2013

Ignacio Jimenez is one of our favorite tendersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;,
making a different concoction to win our hearts
every single day at The Daily (hence, the name).
The dark and cozy bar side of Nolitaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Michelin
starred restaurant, Public, also offers up amazing
snacks like a buttermilk battered chicken
sandwich with celeriac slaw, a stellar burger, and
fish tacos with queso fresco and tomatillo salsa.
Cocktails focus on the seasonality of certain
boozes, so this fall, look for port, sherry, and
cognac to make a showing as components on
the rotating menu. That said, they are always
happy to make you something special at The
Daily, just tell them what you like, they aim to
please.
He made us a Thanksgiving perfect drink and
shared the recipe, so now youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have a new
favorite too. Hello there, Elizabeth Street Sour,
welcome to our cocktail repetoire.
7

HOME EC-ULAR GASTRONOMY

Thanksgiving Edition

Molecular Gastronomy. It looks harder than it is. It sounds even harder than it looks.
Although it may seem tricky to navigate, the chemical revolution is upon us, and some very famous chefs
are doing very interesting things with stuff you’ve never heard of before. Turns out that the shifting of one
substance into something else entirely, at the molecular level, isn’t really as complicated as you may think.
It’s about precise measurements, having the right kitchen equipment, and an abundance of imagination.
Get yourself a kitchen scale that measures out the tiniest gram of powder; buy or hack master a sous vide
machine; you’ll need an immersion blender; a smoking gun; a dehydrator; a butane torch; a couple of
large plastic syringes; you’ll also have to work with unfamiliar cooking ingredients like meat glue and methyl
cellulose (all easily procurable on line).
The ultimate goal is to combine everything you already know about cooking and infuse it with a twenty first
century, culinary manifest destiny. Seek out what’s new and expand your kitchen horizons.
Endgame = you’ll be the Walter White of food.
In this Thanksgiving edition, we’ve created a feast that combines molecular gastronomy technique
with some good ole’ fashioned ‘make it from scratch’ mentality. Not everything here requires chemical
manipulation, because roasted Brussels with garlic should just be roasted, and stuffing begins and ends
with a loaf of good, crusty bread. If it ain’t broke…well, you know.
We’ve reinterpreted the turducken, invented the seasons first ‘snowfall’ and created the world’s cheapest
‘caviar’ out of cranberry juice and vodka. This isn’t exactly a quick and easy turkey day feast, but there
was no hair pulling or outlandish swearing in our test kitchen either. So, whether you make a few things, or
everything, it’s still less intimidating than memorizing the periodic table.
EQUIPTMENT REQUIRED:
sous vide machine + vaccum sealer/bags + immersion hand blender + dehydrator + silicone mat +
plastic syringe + smoking gun + butane torch + digital kitchen scale + fine mesh strainer + 3” ring cutter
+ pastry bag w/medium round tip + fine mesh flour sifter

Note: Measurements below are listed in metric units when necessary and in the Americanized standard
system whenever possible. We want to avoid a hostile takeover of your cooking comfort zone.
8 | November 2013

1 boneless turkey breast, pounded
to 1/4 inch thickness
1 boneless duck breast
pounded to 1/4 inch thickness
Remove sausage from casing and
1 boneless chicken breast pounded
brown the meat in olive oil for
to 1/4 inch thickness
around 6 minutes. Add onion, garlic, 1/8 cup sourdough bread crumb
celery and sage, and cook until
stuffing
softened, about 5 minutes.
Transglutaminase (â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;meat glueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;)
Latex gloves
Combine breadcrumbs and sausage 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
mixture with egg yolk in a large
Salt + pepper
bowl, season with salt and pepper.
Preheat a sous vide water bath to
Reserve 1/8 cup (per 2 person
72 degrees centigrade.
serving) of this stuffing for use in
the turducken.
Weigh the breasts on a digital
kitchen scale (ideally in grams). Lay
Bake the remaining for 25 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 35
out the breasts next to one another
minutes, until browned on top.
on a cutting board.

10 | November 2013

When using transglutaminase, be
sure to wear latex gloves and avoid
inhaling the powder. Measure out
the amount of transglutaminase
required. You will need 1% of the
total protein weight.
Dust the turkey breast liberally with
the transglutaminase. Place the
duck breast centered on top of
the turkey breast and dust liberally
with transglutaminase. Place the
chicken breast centered on top of
the duck breast and dust liberally
with the transglutaminase. Add the
stuffing on top of the chicken breast
and dust with a bit more of the
transglutaminase.
Begin by rolling the meat towards
you, keeping in mind that the
stuffing should remain in the center
of the roll. Tuck under the edges of

turkey meat to “close” the
turkducken.
Shape into a cylinder format using
the palm of your hands, the meat
glue will hold the layers together,
and the vacuum seal bag will cement
the shape.

Melt butter over low heat in a
French saucepan. Add shallots
and sweat for 3-5 minutes, until
soft. Add vinegar and maple syrup,
simmer for 2 minutes, stirring, until
small bubbles form.
Place the rolled turducken carefully
into a vacuum seal bag. Remove
and discard your latex gloves. Place
the bag in a vacuum sealer. Once
sealed, place in the sous vide water
bath for at least three hours.
Upon removing from the bath, open
the vacuum sealed bag, carefully
slice the turducken (cut it as though
it were a sausage, approximately 1”
thick).
Season the individual slices with
salt & pepper. Melt butter over
high heat and sear the individual
turducken slices on both sides for
approximately 1 minute each.

Add the garlic, black pepper, stock,
apple cider and cream, stir to
combine and continue to simmer
over low heat for 10 minutes.
Blend on high in a standard kitchen
blender until completely combined.
Add xanthum gum to blender, blend
again on medium, until combined.
Season with salt to taste.
Roasted Brussels
Sprouts with Lardo
‘Snow’

Pour the rendered lardo into a
mixing bowl (make sure you are
working with fat that has cooled to
room temperature). Slowly whisk
in the maltodextrin until the fat
converts to a powder (the
mixture will begin to get clumpy
before this, just persist with the
whisking).
When ready to serve, simply plate
the sprouts in a serving dish and
dust generously with the lardo
‘snow.’

add egg whites and vanilla extract
to the sugar-gelatin mixture and
beat until just combined.
Using a sifter, sprinkle enough
powdered sugar to cover and coat
a 9x13 glass baking pan. Pour in
marshmallow mixture gently, use a
spatula to smooth the surface. Dust
another layer of powdered sugar on
top (to help prevent sticking) and
let sit 2-3 hours until firm.

Cut the short ends off of the
sweet potatoes so that you have
a long cylinder, then cut them in
half, creating two large slices,
each at least 3 inches thick. Place
the potatoes and butter (1/2
Gently pour sugar mixture over the tablespoon per 2 potatoes) in a
top of the gelatin-water mixture. Mix plastic vacuum bag and seal using
on low until ingredients are blended. a vacuum sealer. Cook in the heated
Then, mix on high and beat for 6-8 water bath for 3 hours.
minutes. Mixture should grow in size
Remove the potatoes and trim the
and be white and fluffy.
ends of each portion so they are all
about the same size (approximately
In a separate bowl, beat the egg
3 inches). Place flat on a board
whites until stiff peaks form. Then
(so it is a ‘tube’ facing upward).
12 | November 2013

When ready to serve, preheat
oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
Combine maple syrup and vanilla.
Using pastry brush, lightly distribute
over the top of the potatoes. Bake
for 5-10 minutes, until the edges
caramelize.

1/2 lb. pecans
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch of salt
‘Toast’ pecans in saute pan over
medium heat for 3-4 minutes, just
until they begin to brown. Add butter
to the pecans, stir to coat as the
butter melts.
Combine cayenne, cumin, cinnamon
and salt together. Add to pan and
again, stir to coat. Add sugar and
water to the pan and stir together
until the sugar dissolves, 3-5
minutes.
Transfer the pecan mixture to a
sheet pan lined with parchment
paper or non stick aluminum foil.
Allow to cool.
Place pecans in small bowl and

place a large piece of plastic wrap
so that it covers half of the bowl.
Attach the flexible tube to the barrel
of a smoking gun. Add a small
amount of smoking chips to the
smoking chamber of the gun. Turn
the smoking gun on and using a
match light the smoking chips. Place
the tube from the gun in the bowl
and allow smoke to infuse for about
30 seconds.
Turn the gun off, remove the tube
and cover the bowl fully with plastic
wrap. Let smoke infuse the pecans
for about 3 minutes.

To assemble final dish:
Top each sweet potato with a
marshmallow round. Using a
butane torch, slowly scorch the top
of the marshmellow until golden
brown. Don’t over do this step,
or the marshmellow will melt and
lose shape. You want the edges to
bubble but not ooze.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Brown spices on baking sheet for
10 minutes. Meanwhile, combine
sugar and water in a small
saucepan and heat until the sugar
has dissolved. Toss in all other
ingredients and allow to sit in the
refrigerator overnight to infuse.
Strain with fine sieve twice, before
using.

Transfer to a mixing bowl and allow
to cool completely, then cover
with plastic wrap and place in the
refrigerator for 2 to 4 hours.
Once the pumpkin mixture has
chilled, place the remaining 2/3 cup
cream into a stand mixer and whip

Line a dehydrator tray with a silicon
mat, you can also use parchment
paper if your dehydrator didn’t
come equipped with mats. Pipe bite

13

sized mounds directly on to the
silicone tray liner. Make sure the
height of the mounds is not larger
than the gap between the trays in
your dehydrator.
Dehydrate at 66 Â°C (150 Â°F) for 4
hours until crisp.

To assemble final dish:
Using the end of a plastic straw,
gently make a hole in the bottom
of each puff by twisting the straw,
donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t push too hard or you will poke
through the top of the puff.

For the ginger simple syrup:
Fresh peeled ginger
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
Combine sugar and water over low
heat, stir to combine, add ginger
and warm gently until the sugar
completely dissolves. Simmer at
lowest heat for 20 minutes to infuse
the gingery flavor. Strain and let
cool.
Mix all the cocktail ingredients in
cocktail shaker over ice, serve
straight up in a martini glass,
garnish with Cranberry-Vodka
caviar.

For the calcium chloride bath:
16 ounces of water
2.5 grams calcium chloride
To make the caviar, mix water and
sodium alginate with an immersion
blender until combined, refrigerate
for at least one hour so that the air
bubbles in the solution have time

to evaporate (this solution can sit
overnight in the fridge).
Create calcium chloride bath by
combining water and calcium
chloride in a deep, non-reactive
bowl.
Combine cranberry juice and
vodka with the sodium alginate
solution. Mix gently with a spoon
until the texture is thick and slightly
gelatinous. Use the back of your
spoon to stamp out any existing
bubbles.
Fill an injection needle (or a
squeeze bottle in a pinch) and then
slowly drop the solution into the
calcium chloride bath from a height
of 3-5 inches.
Let the caviar sit for about 1-2
minutes, then lift out gently with a
fine sieve, and drop into a water
bath to rinse.
Using the sieve, remove the caviar
beads and use to garnish the
martini. Serve immediately.

THE
CENTERFOLD
you know you want a piece
The octopasta at Marea is a food supervillian, you definitely don’t see it coming. This
undercover lover doesn’t even look all that good on paper, “fusilli, red wine braised octopus,
bone marrow.” It’s a wonder that someone would think to combine fatty globs of gelatinous
tissue with a seafood based-anything, but hey, we trust Michael White (and you should too).
This gorgeous plate has lived on the menu since the beginning and it will be hugely
disappointing if the fusilli ever retires. We are always in awe when around such a beauty; a
buttery rich marriage of marrow and tomato sauce offers a surprise lesson in cohesion, and
the wine soaked octopus transcends tenderness. This baby curls our toes every time.
Us: What are your biggest turn ons?
The fusilli: “Fresh basil, breadcrumbs and black pepper.”
Us: What are your biggest turns offs?
The fusilli: ”Grated parmesan - so unneccessary on me! Pinot Grigio. No lightweight wines
please, I would overwhelm. ”
15

EAT ME The Ins + Outs of Consumption
We eat out quite a lot, with both fervor and intent. And our plan is cover anything
and everything worthy, from sea to shining sea. We will be leaning towards coverage of the NYC dining scene, both because this where we are based, and because
we feel the big city sets the pace for the rest of the country. That said, if there is
a fantastic restaurant in the middle of nowhere that you need to know about, we
will write about it.
New restaurants, old favorites...whatever is on our plate will hopefully come to be
on your future eating agenda.

Piora

Tribeca, NY
Yeasty smells float across the room before
the physical source of such whiffs can be
identified. A lumpy mound of “monkey
bread” arrives tableside looking appealing
but rather unassuming, reminding us of a
steakhouse chain opener. With a side of
whipped lardo and seaweed butter (slather
on both at the same time for genuine salty
satisfaction) this loaf begs for your fingers
and banishes any argument against filling up
on useless bread carbs. Call us surprised and
even a little smitten.
When the Goodwin departed they left behind
a cozy vibe, which now lives on in the form
of Piora. Restaurateur Simon Kim took chef
Chris Cipollone (previously of Tenpenny)
on a two week eating expedition in Korea
before coming back to the kitchen to develop
the Modern American menu. With French
technique, Italian influences and Asian
ingredients all at play, the question develops
as to whether or not the melting pot
theme actually melds? This was our eating
conundrum.
16 | November 2013

BARBEQUED OCTOPUS

The combination of flavors may leave you
guessing; a candied pine nut crumble helps
to provide texture to a slick barbeque
coated mound of curling octopus tendrils.
Duck “confit,” resembles a meat patty that
is seared until crispy after removing trace
elements of the duck fat it swims in while
cooking. A pool of tangy sweet plum sauce
sits underneath, and tiny bits of skin, a
sprinkle of what basically amounts to duck
chicharrónes, liters the plate.
Scallops with sweet corn niblets and creamy
puree are cooked just past translucent in

chow mein looking
noodles, constructed
in white chocolate,
were reminiscent of
eating condensed milk
straight from the can.
One companion was just
offended in general, “it
smells like Bengay.”

SUCKLING PIG

spite of a crusty high heat blister; the halibut
has gently bronzed edges and a ringlet of
squash center stage. Both are ideal examples
of how wonderful it is when fish and seafood
benefit from a less is more philosophy.
However, some dishes do seem to ascribe to
a more is more approach, wintery dishes…
substantial in nature. A long ingot of suckling
pig is served with nests of skinny burdock
root and radish on either side, giving it
the appearance of a messy, but gorgeous,
savory canoli. A dark purple and brown pile
of mushrooms and duck sausage gets a
surprising layer of sweetness from charred
fig. Spigarello (that’s what would happen if
broccoli and kale had a baby) offers up a little
bitter contrast to what otherwise would be an
extremely heavy, possibly overwhelming bowl
of rigatoni.
Sadly the main attraction on Piora’s dessert
menu failed to live up to its’ multicultural
promise; a deconstructed earl grey cake
was unpopular from the get go. Scattered
pomegranate seeds seemed out of place
among the rough-hewn edges of brittle
sponge cake, and sadly, the strong taste of
shiso did not match up well. Long crunchy

Wines by the glass run the
gamut in terms of price
point, offering a nice range
of reds and whites from the Finger Lakes to
Burgundy (starting at $9 for a dry Riesling,
going up to $25 for Emblem’s Napa Cab
from 2010). We loved the powerful Cornas,
but couldn’t ante up for more than one
glass at the cost of $22, although the 2007
is not a bottle that’s so easy to find locally.
Specialty cocktails are priced at $15 across
the board. We couldn’t resist an aperitif, the
Victor Laszlo, if less for the sparkly meets
maraschino mix and more because, well,
Casablanca’s still the movie bomb.
Is it French? Is it Italian? Is that gochujang
(Korean fermented hot pepper paste)
we’re tasting? It’s best not to dig too deep.
Everything here is pretty. You don’t know
what it is exactly, but you want to eat it as
soon as you see it. We like that, and we will
definitely be back for more.

Where Else We’re Eating...
The Musket Room

Nolita, NY
Chef Matt Lambert is a New Zealand native
and the menu here reflects his interpretation
on homeland favorites. Although ingredients
seem straightforward, there is clearly a lot
17

of work on the plate; every component is
prepared with thoughtful precision. Spring
for the six course tasting menu, $75 is a good
deal. There’s a rustic meets modern aesthetic
in the restaurant that’s speaks to us loudly.
what to eat: Start with the velvety parsnip
custard, and cold smoked scallops served
with black garlic and knobby sea beans. Then
try a deconstructed version of New Zealand
comfort food, the steak and cheese ‘pie’ with
a mound of lusty taleggio buried beneath a
crispy pastry disk. We also love the perfectly
prepared rosy hued venison flavored with
juniper. You’ll want them to mix master a
drink from the Musket Soda Fountain, just
pick a “shrub flavor” (crab apple or perhaps
smoked corn?) then select a fizzy upper from
a range that includes ginger beer and bitter
lemon soda, and a downer from the booze
section, dark rum or tequila? It’s a toss up.

EVERYTHING from the charcuterie selection
– it’s just too hard to choose between
grandma’s terrine and classic pork rillettes.

Gorge

West Hollywood, CA
Chefs Elia Aboumrad and Uyen Nguyen are
currently running an all female kitchen, not
by intention, but just because the “boys we
hired didn’t really work out.” This tiny slip of
a restaurant is really more of a dimly lit wine
bar and the pair running it (who originally met
in Paris while attending culinary school) are
serving outstanding French fare to those who
truly care about fat laden, silky meat, in all
manipulated shapes and sizes.
what to eat: It doesn’t sound nearly as
exciting as the menu dictates, but order the
lobster mousse, a dome crowned with pine
nuts trapped within a tomato en gelée nipple.
The frommage de tete is also a must; it lacked
Montmartre
the weight and inherent oiliness one often
Chelsea, NY
encounters in head cheese. A wild pheasant
Chef Michael Toscano recently handed over
terrine is layered with black truffles and
the reigns at Perla to take Tien Ho’s place
pecans for crunch, and the duck sausage with
in the kitchen at Montmarte, so out are
smooth potato puree qualifies as sublime
the Asian influences and in are eats that a
comfort food. For dessert, order Nguyen’s
Francophile will adore. Although we are happy St. Honoré style pastries, cream filled puffs
to see Toscano has taken the traditional menu covered in chocolate, or crunchy caramel, or
route, we sure are going to miss that Hong
meringue…all delicate and delicious.
Kong PB&J French toast that used to be on the
brunch menu.
what to eat: Begin your meal with the
difficult choice of ordering the unexpected,
like an octopus version of pasta Provençal, or
sticking to bistro classics such as the mousse-y
chicken liver with shallot marmalade,
escargots or steak tartare. Lamb lovers will
appreciate the use of leg, neck and tongue,
whereas those simply in search of a superb
burger will be rewarded with dry aged
beef topped with “béarnaise cheese.” Try
18 | November 2013

THE
INTERVIEW
Peeling the onion
It’s 2006; a new cooking
show premieres on Bravo
(the same year as another
reality powerhouse appears
on the air, “The Real
Housewives of Orange
County”) and suddenly, it’s
sexy to be a chef (and to
be a hot mess with kids, an
unfortunate happenstance
for everyone besides
Andy Cohen). It’s strange
to think that the public
would so easily embrace
and glamorize what has
previously been considered
to be an extremely difficult
job involving endless hours
on your feet, the absence of
family dinners or holidays
off, and a salary that is
commensurate with that of a
really well paid kindergarten
teacher.

food related
television.
Previously, the
definition of
broadcasting
desire shifted
away from
carefully
produced
cooking shows
with soft
music drifting
through the
background
and scripted
voice-overs.
There were
organized
kitchen
utensils, always
clean and in
their proper
places, and
a total absence of chaos or
emotional turmoil. No one
Yet, the “Top Chef” flame was ‘F-bombed’ audiences or
Olympic opening ceremony
ever cut a finger. The chefs
sized from blast off giving
were always in clean clothes.
new meaning to the words,
It’s wasn’t just unrealistic, it
“pack your knives and go,”
was a cooking utopia that
probably only used before
no average person could
this between lovers who were replicate, and it certainly
also serial killers. (Woody
wasn’t indicative of what
Harrelson & Juliette Lewis –
actually takes place in
apologies, we love you).
restaurants. In professional
kitchens, the word fuck
That first season helped
happens often. Chefs are
to create a new genre of
sometimes super

sensitive and sharp knives
cut through skin just as easily
as anything else. People
who work in close quarters
bump into each other, they
spill things, they yell at each
other. It’s a long day behind
the burner.
This is the first time people
saw the chef struggle first
hand, which is good, gives us
all a little more appreciation
for what arrives on our
plates. But, it also revealed a
19

competitive world of pushy
production technique and
a salacious interest in the
personality of anyone who
surfaces on television.
Dave Martin immediately
become known for his
sense of humor, big blue
eyes, and the claim to fame
saying that inspired a teeshirt phenomenon, “I’m
not your bitch, bitch!” He
advanced to the final three,
and although Martin may not
have taken home the prize,
in this pageant, he was the
most memorable personality.
He almost certainly would
have received the watching
populace’s fan favorite
award; alas, that designation
did not start until season two.

would have happened if
you had not been robbed by
circumstance? Do you think
being labeled the first “Top
Chef” would drastically have
altered your course after the
show?

I knew when the executive
producer came over and said,
“Dave, it’s one more dish.”
There were 38 seconds left
and I’m like, ‘What? What?’
And I’m like, ugh, there’s
three dishes, and I knew,
it’s my fatal flaw, like in
literature. It worked out fine
because I accepted it, ‘I am
going to be disqualified, this
is how they are going to be
able to get me out.’ But it’s
not a real fatal flaw, it’s not
like I was dying, it was just
something that happened. I
We decided to go back to
made that mistake. I’d rather
the source, a season one-er,
be ejected from the show for
to have an honest talk about making a mistake than for
the “Top Chef” experience.
having bad food. So that’s the
Naturally, we decided to get
thing that I can look back on.
him a little bit buzzed, in
I was never cooked off, I was
order to facilitate frankness.
never kicked off because my
So let’s step back in time, and food was bad. I don’t know,
revisit the circumstance that I would like to think that I
started it all. Drink up, Dave, am doing well and pretty
and tell us how you really
successful without that, but
feel…
of course, I would have loved
it, ya know, I don’t like not to
Since there was a
be number one. But I don’t
misunderstanding and you
know that it would.
only made two, not the
required three dishes to
Do you think it’s a cruel
compete in the final episode,
injustice forcing contestants
do you still wonder what
to return to help the person
20 | November 2013

who just beat them in the
final faceoff? I mean, Tiffany
lost the quickfire challenge to
you and Harold, a lot of fans
were outraged at the choice
to disqualify you…were you a
little bitter that you then had
to help team Tiffany attempt
to win the whole shebang?
Didn’t you want to piss in her
food just a little bit?
No, my thing’s always
about being professional
and being real, I would
never want to have her lose
because of something we did
improperly, hence, me giving
her the desserts…that type
of thing. At that point, ya
know, I am off the show, so if
I’m going to come back, I am
going to do my best. Granted
we were out until like eight
in the morning fucking
boozing, but I had just been
formally kicked off the show.
I mean, I’m cooking, and
you are giving me direction.
Normally, I’m in charge, so
for me to be a flunky and
have you telling me what
to do, that I can do in no
matter what state of mind
and amount of sleep. I am still
going to do it the same. The
errors that she made in that
meal were hers. We seasoned
the artichokes out of the fryer
and then she came back and
seasoned them again. She
didn’t trust us, but we were
not there to fuck with her.

Were you secretly thinking it
was culinary justice when she
lost to Harold?

trying to turn her into this
other person. I mean, maybe
it’s not the best choice of
hostess. We are in front of
I knew at the end of the day
the house, and I am thinking
that it just probably wasn’t
that maybe it’s going to be
going to work out for her. Ya
Emeril or Wolfgang Puck or
know, you have to be a nice
Martha Stewart maybe, and
person, you have to be nice. It then I see this teenage waif
comes through in your food,
and I’m like, ‘who the fuck
your energy and your angst.
is this?’ And we are all down
Things like that…so, I think
there goin’, ‘who is this?’
it showed. We had to do two And no disrespect, I really
courses for each thing, so
do love Katie and wish her
there were so many errors
the best but I’m like, ‘I watch
and flaws that she made
enough reality t.v. and I don’t
in that meal just trying to
even know who the hell…
overcompensate. Just make
whatever.’ And it was so hard
a great meal, ya know? That’s for her. I would do this skit
the part of the show that I
cuz she didn’t seem to have
was really looking forward
natural gestures, so everyday
to, just making a really great we’d get back to the house
meal on my own terms. So
and everybody would be
that was the only thing I feel
like, “Dave, Dave, do Katie
like I lost.
today! Do Katie!” So I would
be like, {insert monotone
Katie versus Padma, do you
Hal inspired mocking voice}
think you missed out?
‘Chefs, welcome. Back to the
kitchen.’ You know, I would
No, no, no. I am definitely
just do this robotic caricature
not a Padma fan. Katie was
of her, it was just funny. I
great, but they were trying
mean, it’s not her fault, but it
to put her into this character is what it is, so fuck it. I would
that she wasn’t, and that was mock the show every day and
what created an issue. She’s
I had everyone cracking up,
a really nice person and they and she saw it post show, and
wanted her to be meaner,
we’re still friends, I think it’s
they wanted her to be this
all good.
stoic character and she’s like,
what? Twenty years old or
Tom, Padma and Gail have
something like that? You’ve
really led “Top Chef” since
got a teenage bride married
then. Do you think that
to Billy Joel and they are
triumvirate is what pulled the

show together and contributed
to the overall success of the
brand?
Noooo. I think people come
back for the contestants. I
think the rest is just what it
is. Unless guys want to jack
off to Padma, but I don’t
think-- they don’t watch the
entire show for Padma. Tom
has a little more clout and
Tom is a great guy. People
are not following the show
for Gail Simmons, I’m sorry
Gail. They’re not following
the show for you. They’re
following for the contestants.
Potentially Tom a little bit.
Padma for the sex thing.
But aside from that, they’re
watching the show for the
action between contestants,
not the judges. And the least
of the judges is definitely
Gail. I saw her at four events
and she disregarded me at
every event. She did not even
say “hi” to me. She pretended
like she didn’t know me at all.
That’s how you really flip my
switch. Having Gail do that to
me…I mean, I’m not trying to
get anything from Gail. But
you say hi to me, come on,
you know who I am. To see
me, and then avoid me and
walk away? That’s bullshit, I
don’t play that game. I have
nothing bad to say about
Tom, but Gail…please.
Did the producers try to egg
21

you on by letting you know
when another chef had said
something negative about
your food or performance?

Is it really $18.95? Oh lord,
that thing better do more
than just open cans. I mean, I
can’t slam anyone. I’ve done
my own cookbooks, I have
No, no egging on. What I can
my own product line, so that’s
say about “Top Chef” season
me, and that’s my brand. And
one is that it was real, it was
hey, if you got someone that
organic, there was nothing
wants to buy a twenty-dollar
manufactured. I mean, we
can opener or a box of wine
had to get them to give us
cuz it says “Top Chef” on it,
more wine, they didn’t even
I can’t fault them for that.
get that memo yet. I was like
If it’s gonna sell, it’s gonna
screaming down for the wine
sell, ya know? But, kinda
fairy every night, “send up
keep in mind, you know, I
more wine!” So they weren’t Whose accomplishments since don’t cook in sweatpants;
even plying us with alcohol
appearing on “Top Chef” do
professional chefs don’t
at that point. They kinda
you most admire?
cook in sweatpants…you
learned what was needed to
know what I mean, let’s be
help us unwind and be more
I would definitely say
real. I always get sick when
entertaining and open. But it Harold. Harold was always a
it’s oversaturation, like “Top
was not staged or scripted.
gentleman and a professional Chef” tampons, I mean,
throughout the show. And
do we need that? Keep it
There were certain people
the fact that he has three
within the brand because it’s
who criticized your food and
successful restaurants, it
one thing to do cookbooks,
questioned whether or not
makes sense, that’s him,
cookware and sauces, but
you fit in with the “Top Chef”
that’s his passion, to do
you know, I am not launching
persona, but now many of
restaurants and do them well. the new underwear that you
them are doing things similar
I really admire Harold, I am
can fart in and not smell. I’m
to the home style comfort food proud of him pre and post
fucking pissed that someone
that you did. So do you feel
show, ya know, all the way
else thought of that.
a certain level of vindication
through, he was true.
because they are now doing
“Cream Cheese recipes
what they previously knocked The “Top Chef” merchandise
by “Top Chefs”…for any
you for doing?
franchise now includes
occasion!” (sponsored by
everything from a branded
Kraft’s Philadelphia brand).
I think something that’s very salad spinner, to flatware sets, These kinds of advertising
ironic is that if we do fast
even “Top Chef sweatpants.”
partnerships are less about
forward eight years, two of
Do you see this extension as
the recipe, more about the
the people that were my
viable? Do you think fans need relationship, do you think in
biggest detractors and talked a “Top Chef” can opener for
this case, the folks in Bravo’s
shit about me, my food
$18.95?
marketing department are
and what I was doing, were
actually running the show?
22 | November 2013

Steven and Tiffany. Tiffany
has a fucking BBQ joint in
Boston, I love BBQ, but still,
she’s running a BBQ joint.
And at the same time, Steven
is opening a pizza place in
the financial distrcit, it’s
another one of my favorite
foods, but…whatever. So
those people who talked shit
are now doing BBQ & pizza.
Meanwhile, I am doing, good,
quality food, and making
more money than them.

I would think yeah, once they
get a sponsor on board, it’s
the network that drives the
content or lets them know
what content will be able to
provide to them as a sponsor.
I’m sure the contestants
know too that you’ll have to
produce recipes or whatever
it is.
Do you believe in partnerships
– I mean are you making
cream cheese recipes at home?
So, those partnerships – and
it’s very funny, if you could
watch some of the tapes
from us on “Top Chef,” it’s
like you’ll hear some of the
things I talked about. I was
like, ‘you guys, wait a couple
of years. Soon, sponsored by
Land Rover, Ziploc, Global
Knives...’ I was making jokes
every day. I’d be like ‘just wait
you guys in three years it will
be that, in five years it will be
this, it will be every fucking
big company that will want
to give money and be part
of this.’ This is talking about
my present life and what I do,
because I do have the luxury
and opportunity to work
with really great brands in
the food and spirit world. So
when they come to me, no
matter what the rate of pay
is or whatever, I make sure
it’s a recipe that I’ve made or
is in my stable, something
that I do that is reflective

of me. Okay, so if someone
comes to me and says ‘We
want you to do a recipe for
mayonnaise,’ no matter how
much money I’m not gonna
do a recipe for mayonnaise
because I don’t use
mayonnaise. You’re only as
good as your recipe, so I feel
like you have a responsibility
to make sure however it’s
crafted, you have to be real
and true.
The rumor is
that Bravo
uses those
recipes and
chefs’ names,
but none of the
revenue share
is going back to
the chefs. Do
you feel that
in a way Bravo
is unfairly
benefitting
because an
Edward Lee
or Paul Qui already had
established careers, and now
the network has the ability
to use their names long after
that show airs?
Yeah, yeah, yeah. So you
know, it’s difficult when you
sign up for these shows.
They kind of own you, the
name, the brand. It’s in the
contract. Even though I said
I didn’t read all the pages,
I did glance at some

shit. But at that point you’re
nobody, you know, most of
these people are nobodies.
Now it’s a different caliber,
but even so. They’ve won
James Beard but they haven’t
been on TV. So now I’m
exposed to a larger audience,
a more nationwide audience,
or global or whatever. So,
you know, television is about
making money and at the
end of the day they’ve got to
make money from whatever

sources. Especially a Bravo,
which is a reality network
overall now.
So those chefs that stick up
for themselves, do you believe
it prevents them from being
invited back to things like the
“All Stars?” Do you think your
outspokenness has hindered
or prevented you from future
opportunities with the “Top
Chef” brand?
23

Yes! Yes it does. When you
speak back to the network
and don’t do what the
network asks there can be
ramifications. I did that in a
different way. The new Prez
didn’t like me, she was rude
to me at a party and we had
not great words. I called
their external PR company
and called that gal a bitch
because she pretended that
she didn’t know me. Part
of the reason that I’ve been
exiled from the network is
because I stood up for myself.
It is what it is – you can print
whatever of that you want.
But like, I’m not a bitch. And
I did a lot of work and I was
myself. If myself and the
other people on season one
had not helped to make it
successful, there wouldn’t
have been a second season.
So, the network is very
powerful and it can choose
what it wants to do with
you based on if you want to
agree or disagree. I chose to
not be a puppet and stand
up for myself, and it cost
me from probably being on
other Bravo programming or
other future “Top Chefs.” But
I made that choice because
that’s me. And do I get
bummed? Yeah, but I have
to be comfortable with my
decisions.
Tell us what you’ve been
24 | November 2013

working on…product line,
through Perfect Puree. I’m
consulting, cookbooks, events? doing a hot sauce line with
this gal – we’re launching
Present day I have six
four new hot sauces. I’ve got
companies. One is Dave’s
a frozen yogurt consulting
Homemade, cookbooks,
project in the beginning of
sauces, rubs, etc. That’s
the year.
my brand. Then another
company is events, high end Regarding your own line and
local and national events. I’ve the brand ambassadorships,
done James Beard, auctions, did “Top Chef” kickstart that
etc. Then I have kind of like
for you?
a philanthropic side. I’m
on the board of Let It Flow
Yeah, but I did it all. I called
– we build water stations
everyone. I mean I was a
and sanitation stations in
technology recruiter for
third world countries. There
thirteen years, one of the
are a number of things like
best on the West Coast. So I
Make-A-Wish Foundation
call companies that I want to
and Ronald McDonald that
work with, and that’s how I
I work with. Then Impact
built those relationships. Or
Network is a new group
they’ve been at an event and
that I’m working with.
want to work with me like
We do e-schools in Africa
Patron. They were at an event
and such. Then I’m brand
that I did with them and they
ambassador for a number of
were like ‘boom.’ they liked
brands, Perfect Puree, I’ve
me and that started The
done stuff with Tabasco and
Ultimat and we are going to
Johnnie Walker. Right now
start doing more stuff. I could
I’m working with Patron and
have been Joe Whatever. The
their new vodka launch here
“Top Chef” cachet helps, but
in the city, Ultimat Vodka.
also that they like me and I do
It’s a partnership with Rag
a good job. That’s part of it,
& Bone. We’re doing a big
but the rest of it is me being
launch in January with these
a hustler and bringing these
cool Bloody Mary’s that I’ve
relationships to fruition, my
just crafted for them. And
follow up. Like “Top Chef”
my consulting, working with
doesn’t follow up for me. I’m
restaurants or bars. I’ve got
the professional and that’s
one local, I’ve got one in
leading to more and more
Boston. I just did work with
deals and partnerships with
California Pizza Kitchen
brands that I like and I use.

“Top Chef” has always been
good to me and continues to
be good for me, because it’s
just something you can have
in your stable. As my brand is
developing and growing, it’s
taking a secondary role, but
you still need some type of
cachet – especially when you
don’t have a restaurant and
have built a brand off of just
doing what I do. I’ve created
my own niche, so “Top Chef”
is in there. I’m thankful for it.
Do you think this new age of
celebrity chefdom helps or
hurts the industry?
Someone asked me about
this yesterday and I said
‘I’m not a celebrity chef. I
qualify myself as a chef that
has some notoriety. but
I’m not a celebrity.’ I come
from Southern California,
celebrities are people that
film movies, t.v., and things
like that. That’s not the
category I’m in. I’ve been on
television and I know how
to cook. Like I always say to
people that know me, I’m
D-list. It’s better than nolist but I’m not a celebrity.
I’m in the public eye and I
got to be on TV, but they
get a lot more free shit than
I do. And they get paid a
lot more. I’m not Wolfgang
Puck. That’s someone that I
look up to. That’s someone

that is a celebrity chef and
has cooked for every A-list
celebrity chef in the world.
THAT’s a celebrity chef. A
“Top Chef” to me is not a
celebrity, it’s just not the
same. Emeril, Rachel, those
are people in that mold.
Someone that’s just rolling
off of “Top Chef,” you’re not a
fucking celebrity. And based
on how good or great you
are, how nice or mean you
are, that may determine your
shelf life as well. I’m season
one, how many others are
there? I don’t know? {We
tell him that currently, the
show is in season twelve.}
Are you serious? Whatever.
How many people do you
even remember out of those
seasons? Thankfully, I’m still
remembered so many years
later.

that’s maybe what some
people don’t understand.
It depends on what they’re
seeking, fame or whatever.
Like, I’m seeking a really
good living. I don’t need the
fame. I mean all of my friends
that I had eight or nine years
ago are still my friends. It’s
not about fame and things
like that. That’s not what it
was about for me. So I think
there’s a different group,
aside from fame and fortune,
they’re seeking so much in
it that it may not deliver.
Especially now that it’s a
machine – and there’s ‘season
this’ and season twentyseven and season fifty-seven.
I would do “Top Chef” today
as long as I was paid the rate
that was in my contract. Well,
it would be a monetary issue
and would depend on what
the format of the show is.
Would you do it again? Or
Actually, I’d have to really
would you do a current season, think about it. I’m not really
knowing that the trajectory
sure if I would or not.
of the show has changed so
much and that it has become
Plans are in the works for
much more of a manipulated
national grocery distribution,
circumstance? What if they
but for now, shop Dave’s
asked you to come back and
Homemade product line
be on “All Stars” for a chance
on chefdavemartin.com,
at redemption?
iGourmet.com and OpenSky.
I’d be an idiot not to do it
again. It’s been so good
for me and so good for my
career. But you have to take
the show and run with it and
25

The Street on scene eats
We heart UrbanSpace for creating pop-up outdoor food-centric mini
malls, where people can eat and drink collectively on city streets. From
Robertaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s revered pizza to Momofuku Milk Barâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crack pie, super cool
culinary vendors hock their wares from dawn till dusk (okay, almost, from
11 a.m. until 9 p.m.). Snack with abandon all day long.
Right now, you can check out Broadway Bites (pictured) in Greeley
Square Park at 33rd Street and Broadway.
Open through November 24th.

26 | November 2013

27

READ ME

The Thanksgiving Bookshelf

It’s that gorgeous satisfying moment you’ve been waiting for, when the turkey
finally hits the table, an outstanding array of colorful sides surrounding; everyone
tilts forward in their seats, inching closer to the wafting smoky smell of golden
bird. What comes before this shining moment of holiday bliss? The planning.
Since we take our Thanksgiving gorging very seriously, we have a belief system to
share. Sort of a holiday constitution, or bill of rights, if you will:
1. We firmly believe in menu roulette, don’t be married to the same recipes year
after year (surprise the people you love with newfound kitchen prowess and revel
in holiday cocktail fueled compliments).
2. We also believe that Thanksgiving does not have to be about turkey. Plenty of
other animals can be stuffed, smoked, seared, sous vide, roasted and deep fried.
3. And we don’t believe that our holiday cheer can be contained within the pages of
just one cookbook.
Thus, we present a list of favorites that will help bridge the gap between classic
and contemporary, allowing your culinary mojo to really flow. “Oooh’s” and
“ahhh’s” to follow.
Thanksgiving by Sam Sifton is entirely
devoted to the holiday, providing a top to
bottom recipe payload covering the turkey
and sides, as well as touching upon etiquette
and presentation. The former New York Times
critic will even tell you what to do with those
leftovers. With pretty illustrations by Sarah
Rutherford, this is a Turkey Day cookbook
dream come true (great host/hostess gift!).

Beginning
with the
words, “I’m
Michael
Symon, and I
love meat!”
Carnivore:
120 Recipes
for Meat
Lovers,
Another Times writer riding the Thanksgiving is a great
gravy train, Mark Bittman’s How To Cook
cookbook
Everything Thanksgiving delves deep into the for the main
holiday theme with a comprehensive line up
event. The
of soups, stuffings, and sides. He also provides Iron Chef
expert advice on everything turkey – from
discusses
the defrosting timetable to the all important
how to choose your turkey and the various
question – “to brine or not to brine?”
prep methods, but there are a ton of game

28 | November 2013

recipes in here that work just as well, like
venison with dried cherry sausage or smoky
squab breasts. Oh, and deep fried turkey
enthusiasts will find an education on that
technique here too.
James Beard award-winning chef Gabriel
Rucker has created a fantastic cookbook
homage to his popular restaurant, Le Pigeon
in Portland, Oregon. The section on “little
birds” includes quail, pheasant and naturally,
pigeon; although an entire chapter about
rabbit or animals with antlers, could be recipe
fodder for a creative, memorable holiday
meal.
Salted Caramel
Apple pie?
Sounds like a
sweet holiday
ending to
us. The Four
& Twenty
Blackbirds
Pie Book:
Uncommon
Recipes from
the Celebrated
Brooklyn Pie
Shop has just been published in time for
Thanksgiving, giving you a wealth of pies
beyond pumpkin to choose from. If you
haven’t heard of the “celebrated Brooklyn pie
shop” than this is an excellent way to dip your
finger in and pull a plum out.

apparently. The Beekman 1802 Heirloom
Dessert Cookbook highlights “Heritage
Recipes” inspired by their historic home and
family tradition, including a pumpkin jelly roll,
buttermilk pie with pecan crust and maple
syrup French toast bread pudding. Holiday
dessert heaven.
Cider seems to be having a limelight moment
in general, but Thanksgiving is truly the
perfect time to embrace everything from
farmhouse, to French, to sparkling cider.
In Hard and Sweet: History, Traditions,
and Making Your Own, you’ll get the 411
on cider throughout history, as well as an
educational lesson in apple variations on a
theme including cider vinegar, apple wine and
Calvados.
American tradition at its’ best, the original
red faced Betty Crocker Cookbook is great
for novices, offering a visual tutorial of how
to roast a turkey and make apple pie. There
are “Heirloom Recipes” and “New Twist”
categories, so you can be as classic or as
adventurous as your holiday mood dictates.
Although pumpkin pie is on the docket, try
out spicy pumpkin cookies with browned
butter frosting, they’ll go better with your
“day after Thanksgiving” turkey and grilled
cheese sandwich.

Two guys leave the bustle of Manhattan for
the country, start making goat’s milk soap,
then cheese, then everything else
29

AROUND
THE
WEB
We give good internet
We cruise all day long, so you don’t have to. Instead, just check out our list of
cyberspace faves, from online provisions to kitchen gadgets you’ll covet. The
things we love we now pass along to you!
We’ll also give a nod to the emerging power of self-sufficiency, highlighting the
culinary company upstarts that we are currently following on crowdsourcing
sites. Today’s bright idea is tomorrow’s coolest appliance, or cookbook, or
restaurant success story…let’s support our peers! Power to the (food) people.
ChefSteps
For those seeking a cooking tutorial
beyond the basics, check out this Seattle
based site that offers video instruction
on everything from “The Science of
Poutine” (are you not already in???) to
butchery lessons, ie. how to break down
an entire albacore tuna. The community
at large provides advice and recipes
as well, making this a destination for
anyone seeking a forum. ChefSteps
is a collaborative environment that
encourages experimenting, brought to
you by a few Modernist Cuisine alums
(that’s cred).
Goldbely
What do Louisiana crawfish, Texas
tamales, Katz’s pastrami, and San Fran
sourdough, have in common? They are
all ready for the taking at this online
marketplace that connects customers
with purveyors from sea to shining sea.
Whether it’s Buffalo wings from Buffalo,
or Chicago-style deep dish pizza from
Chicago, the folks at Goldbely are
sending gastro-pleasure directly to your
30 | November 2013

front door. Plus, some of the offerings
even ship for free.
GetCulture
Cheese makes everything better and now
those enzymes, cultures and coagulants
that equal everything cheesy are available
for non-commerical customers. This
sister site belongs to a company who
previously only sold their yeasty molds,
preservative free vegetable rennet, and
annatto coloring to the trade. Your next
cheese plate is about to take hobby-ing
to an entirely new level. So if you’ve been
thinking, “I’d love to learn how to make
cheese at home, but I can’t find those
damn fermented milk cultures anywhere,”
well, you can now dive head first into the
curds and whey.
DIY Cocktail Bitters Kit
This project began when a recipe on
Serious Eats called for an herb not easily
found in local groceries. When it became
too expensive to buy in bulk, the owner
decided to create her own company.

Thank you!
Farm To Fork: A Food Documentary
This film follows participants in The
Sustainable Life Project, a job training
program in Los Angeles. Run by the
Tender Greens Restaurant group, SLP
targets at risk youth; particulary 18-24
year olds who have recently left the
support of the foster care system.
TellSpec
What’s in your food? Just wave the
scanner over your food and poof! “Your
apple has no pesticdes.” This device will
give you the lowdown on everything from
calorie count, to whether or not your food
contains allergens like gluten.

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thanks for helping to make our little
dream of a magazine a reality.