Keramimic 2.0 from Croda - Intelligent Repair of Damaged Hair

May 2012

Croda’s Keramimic 2.0 is a new keratin quat that takes biomimetics to the next generation. Developed using the most recent advances in proteomics, the amino acid sequences of the peptides found in Keramimic 2.0 match those present in the keratin proteins found in cuticular and cortical regions of human hair. Combining the best of science and nature, Keramimic 2.0 is a highly substantive conditioning active that provides targeted repair to the most damaged areas of the hair’s surface.

As the move towards natural cosmetics gathers momentum, biomimetics has been a continual trend throughout recent years. The logic of protecting and replenishing the keratin proteins of the hair with keratin derivatives, or treating ‘like with like’, has experienced a major resurgence in the hair care market and Keramimic 2.0 is a new keratin quat that differentiates itself from any other. Not only does it replace ‘like with like’, it mimics the proteins found in the hair’s natural composition to move biomimetics to the next generation.

Analysis of the hair from root to tip shows that the hair fibre becomes progressively more anionic as the degree of damage to the cuticle is increased as you move along the hair fibre. Time of Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectroscopy (ToF-SIMS) is a technique which can provide detailed information about the surface chemistry of the hair. This high resolution mass spectroscopy technique was used to identify and map the deposition of Keramimic 2.0 along the hair fibre. The use of imaging ToF-SIMS has shown that the cationic nature of Keramimic 2.0 ensures it deposits preferentially at the most damaged areas of the hair surface; Intelligently repairing the hair cuticle.

The look and feel of the hair is most obviously related to the hair cuticle and damaged cuticles result in dull, rough unmanageable hair so care for the cuticle requires good conditioning. Combing studies were carried out using the Mini Tensile Tester, comparing the reduction in combing force of bleached European hair tresses treated with a Keramimic 2.0 conditioner or a conditioner base. The results of this study demonstrate the excellent conditioning properties of Keramimic 2.0.

Laboratory evaluations are interesting as ‘proof of concept’, but performance must be realised in-vivo for an ingredient to be value adding. Croda has developed a specialist in-house method of evaluating the sensorial impact of actives on hair. Objective studies have been carried out on a trained panel of experts profiling nine hair attributes against industry benchmarks. A study looking at wet hair attributes was carried out and profiling data on Keramimic 2.0 delivered from an aqueous solution was generated. Keramimic 2.0 was shown to offer excellent wet tangle removal, wet ease of combing and wet smoothness compared to shampoo.