There's a Sweet, Sweet Spirit in This Place

by Janet Florence and Gina Hilton

Surrounding any place of worship is a sweet calming spirit that touches all that comes in contact
with it. To all who come to hear God's word, this peace is held in reverence. Still, there is yet
another unique atmosphere you may find in churches. But to find this you must travel several
miles away from town to visit one of the country churches that dot this Ozark countryside.
Because they are away from the hustle bustle of the city, they can't help but hold a wonderful
peacefulness--a peacefulness reflected by the members as well as the churches. Even though we
were strangers, we were warmly welcomed when we visited these churches and interviewed
members. Everyone made a point of saying, "Come back soon."

Doors of the churches are always opened for any passer-by. Usually the only reason the door is
locked is the church has stopped holding services. Members die or move membership to bigger
churches in towns or ministers are hard to find because the churches are too small to support
them. It is a sad thing to see a sturdy old church still standing but without a pastor and
congregation to make it complete, but this is just another one of the stepping stones of life that
have had to change completely.

Morgan Lutheran Church

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The beginning of a church is the first step in its life. When a group of a certain faith lived in the
community, those few families would begin to have services. Some held services in one of the
homes. Some churches were started by brush arbor meetings. Some started in a log school house
or the upstairs of an old store building. Eventually, most had enough membership to build a
church.

When the people built the church houses, they built them to last. The people themselves got the
materials that were native to the Ozarks and did all the construction. Because rocks were so
plentiful, a lot of churches used them for foundations. These churches are still standing today
which shows how strong and sturdy they are.

Most churches were just one room with a small vestibule or entry way. If the church grew and
could afford it, other rooms were added later. If possible, many of the churches had a bell tower
on top of the vestibule. The bell called the members to worship and at times announced
community news such as weddings and funerals. When a member of Morgan Lutheran Church
died, during the funeral the bell was tolled one time for each year the person lived.

Seats in the church were sawed out of native oak lumber and the heat was a stove in the middle of
the aisle. Lighting was provided by reflector lights hung on the side walls. These lamps had a
sheet of metal behind the flame that reflected the light into the center of the church. The pulpit,
usually handmade by one of the church members, was small with a rostum.

Members often donated their time, efforts and materials when building a new church. At Cross
Roads Church there was a chart made telling exactly what each person did, how much they paid
and where they bought the materials. It is still hanging in the church.

After the church was built, members who lived close by would donate their time as caretakers.
They would sweep and clean the church, light the stove during winter, and see that the lamps
were filled. Frequently, they wouldn't want members staying long after church so they could blow
the lights out to save kerosene.

Many churches, Halfway Baptist, Friendship, Eureka, Blackfoot, were named after the community
they were in. Others were named after geographical features of the area such as Fairview, White
Oak Pond, Sunny View, and Little Vine. Biblical names, Mt. Zion, Mt. Pisgah, Antioch,
Emmanuel Chapel, were given to others. Some were named after the people who donated the land
the churches were built on like Shaddy Chapel and Bramhall. Many times, a cemetery existed
before the church, so the church was named after the cemetery as McBride and Hough Chapel
were. Occasionally the church was named after an unusual happening. The men of one community
were building a school and were wondering what they could call it. One man said, "You know,
wasn't it over in that thicket where Uncle Pete killed that bear?" So they named the school, the
church, and the cemetery Bear Thicket. Another church, Happy Hill, got its name when one
elderly lady of the church who had been faithful for years was asked to name the new church set
on top a hill with a view of all the countryside. She said, "Praise the Lord, we'll call it Happy Hill."

Larger communities, if they were at all able would have a full time minister that resided in or near
enough to the town that he was able to preach every Sunday. The smaller communities were
satisifed if a traveling preacher could work it into his schedule to visit them once a month. This
man of God might start walking from his home early Friday to get to the church by Saturday.

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Services would usually start at eleven o'clock that morning and last for an hour and a half. Three
other services, Saturday night, Sunday morning, and Sunday night, were held following this. Four
meetings each month is all that a church could expect from a preacher that might have to walk
twenty-five miles to reach a church through the smothering days of summer, ice and snow in
winter and pouring rain in spring and fall. But get there he would.

Each weekend the traveling preacher would be in a different community. He was always traveling,
never really having a true home, making the rounds to all that wanted to hear the gospel word.
These men were well liked and known by all. Often they would get free rides if they met someone
else traveling their way. Nobody tried to rob them during their travels for they knew the preachers
would have no money.

Preachers weren't given a guaranteed amount of money at a specific time. They expected what
was given and praised the Lord for it. Having another job was unavoidable, especially during hard
times. Churches were small and too unstable financially to support a full time preacher so the
members gave what they could. Each month's salary would vary. December would usually be the
lowest month because of bad weather and holidays while during the summer months people gave
more because they had more to give when farms were producing. Gifts such as a hog or other
food were always welcomed to a preacher, especially one with a family to support.

One year Curtis Wilson preached at a small church with one hundred members for just $9.00. Part
of the $9.00 was a $5.00 pig a man gave him. Another year he was paid $2.00 in August, $1.00 in
September, 40¢ in October, 10¢ in December, 62¢ in January, 2¢ in
February, 85¢ in May, and $2.00 in July. At the end of the year it was $8.98.

There is a story of one church that needed a new minister around 1895. When a man came to try
for the job, he told the congregation that first Sunday' morning, "I think we should have a fair
understanding before I start. I'll pastor the church for a dollar a month, twelve dollars for the
year." One of the elders stood up and said, "Before I help pay that, I'll do the preaching myself."
The young preacher got on his horse and rode away. And that was that.

Today most preachers have a full education of the Bible at a seminary. But before congregations
wanted seminary students, men who were called into God'd ministry trained themselves by reading
the Bible. Making the decision to enter the ministry was hard. It meant having two jobs and still
not much money, and, for traveling preachers, being away from home and family a great deal of
the time or not even having a true home. For this reason, they might fight the call to become a
preacher for a long time, then they would pray for guidance. One man who heard the call was
troubled about what he should do. He started walking and praying for guidance. He noticed that
the road he was on forked off two ways. He prayed that if he walked down the right side he
would be a preacher and if he walked down the left, he wouldn't. He started walking to the right
side. He's preached ever since that time.

The first service was held on Saturday when the preacher arrived. The order of the service was
left up to the preacher. Free Will Baptists would read the minutes from the last service held, then
they would pray. A song followed and everyone extended the right hand of fellowship. Singing
was a great part of the services because it got the people in the mood to worship. The services
might be started with three or four songs. If the church didn't have books, only songs everyone
knew were sung. Since most churches were small, there were no special choirs. Everyone sung.
Pump organs were first used, then pianos. Sometimes the song leader would use a handmade
doughstick--similar to a baton with little whittled out slots. Some song leaders were asked by
other churches to come and lead the singing. "Uncle" Elmer Hilton, one of the finest bass singers
in the county, was asked many times to sing as a special at other churches. Uncle Elmer's hands
would get so shaky his book would shake so he couldn't read his music. Since he didn't know the
music from memory, he would get lost pretty quickly, so he would hand the book and doughstick
over to another person to take over as he joined the congregation singing.

O praise the Lord,
Sing to the Lord a new song.
Sing his praise in the assembly
of the faithful.

After the singing, the preachers gave their message. They made walls shake getting the word
across to the congregation. Children knew to be at their quietest. Adults listened well so they
were able to follow what they heard being preached. Only the stentorian voice of the minister rang
over the hillside.

One seat was reserved for the deacons of the church, called the Amen Corner. Deacons were the
most trusted men of the church. They handled things when the pastor was absent. They had to be
chosen by the congregation just as the preacher did. The first question that would be asked was,
"Do you have two living women?" If they did, that was as far as they got. When made a deacon,
they were a deacon for life, or as long as they maintained sound doctrine. Usually there were four
in the church.

During communion, the deacons would pass the one communal cup. Only if the church was
financially well off could there be a cup for each member.

The offering plate was passed every meeting. One church was lucky to have a offering bag with a
long handle so the men could stand in the aisle and pass it side to side. That way, no one had to
get up to pass the plate. The bag was beautiful, lined with velvet and hung with tassels. The
church was very proud of this unique invention.

At least once every month many churches would hold a basket dinner outside under the large
shade trees that surround country churches. After lunch there might be a singing sesson. Then
children would play games of horse shoes and tag while their parents cleaned up the grounds to
get ready for the evening services.

Children's Day at Hazelgreen Methodist Church in 1929

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Fairview Methodist Church photo by Larry Doyle

Happy Home Cumberland Presbyterian Church Photo by Gina Hilton

Plato Christian Church Photo by Stephen Ludwig

Morgan Lutheran Church Photo by S. Hough

SWEET SWEET SPIRIT

There's a sweet, sweet spirit
in this place,
And I know that it's the Spirit
of the Lord;
There are sweet expressions on
each face,
And I know they feel the
presence of the Lord.

Sweet Holy Spirit,
Sweet heavenly dove,
Stay right here with us
Filling us with your love.
And for these blessings
We lift our hearts in praise:
Without a doubt we'll know
that we have been revived
When we shall leave
this place.

Bear Thicket Methodist Church Photo by Janet Florence

Phillipsburg Christian Church Photo by L. Doyle

Rader Lutheran Church Photo by J. Florence

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Christmas was a special time and each church had a special program to present. Morgan Lutheran
Church had a community program, not just for its members alone. They decorated a large tree
with lighted candles. Two men would stand beside the tree holding a fishing pole with a wet rag
tied on the end, so if one of the candles made the least drip, they could put it out before the tree
caught on fire. One Christmas there was a big ice storm that made it impossible for many to come
to the program. One man cared so much about having the program a success he ice shod two
teams of mules. He loaded the wagon with everybody that wanted to go to the Christmas
program. Sawdust was spread on the ground so people wouldn't slip. That Christmas is one
cherished by all who were able to attend.

Every church would need to be revived. And oh what a time this was! Most revivals were in the
fall, usually in late August when the crops were laid by and farm families were not as busy. The
revivals would last about two weeks. There were two services, one in the day which the elders
said warmed the church up for the second service that night. So many people would come that
sometimes they would have to look in the windows. The very small children would lay on a bench
or on a pallet on the floor between benches.

After the revival was completed, there would be a great number of anxious
converts ready to be baptized in the river. Even if it was winter and the creeks
frozen, it didn't matter. Just break the
ice and go right in. There might be up to fifty people ready to be baptized.
Curtis Wilson once baptized a six year old boy. He was holding a baptismal
service in the river and the boy was in the
crowd of watchers. All of a sudden the boy dashed into the water. The little
boy's parents were against baptizing him and so were a few members of the church
because they thought he was too
young. However, his grandfather said to baptize him, so Curtis did. He talked
to the boy, now a man, not long ago. He still sings and goes to church and
has never doubted his faith or ever been
dissatisfied with it. The oldest person Curtis ever baptized was eighty-seven
years old.

Sometimes people would do things the church didn't approve. A church trial would be held in
which the person was asked if he was sorry for his misdeed. If not, he would be denied fellowship
and excluded from church membership. In one church trial, one was denied fellowship for going
to a dance. Another was excluded because he traded dogs on Sunday. One man traded horses on
Sunday. The church asked him if he was sorry. Not until he found out he made a bad trade, he
said. He was excluded.

Abo Church 1910

Since the doors of the church were hardly ever locked, children often would wander inside to play
church. One would stand behind the pulpit and mock the preacher. Others would act like the little
old ladies of the church. Boys would go to the Amen Corner to play deacon. One time a few
children wanted to imitate communion service. Since kerosene was all they found to put in the
cup, they soon found out right from wrong!

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The churches in this beautiful hill country hold many wonderful memories for all who have been
to them, even though members move or churches close. One woman who has moved from the
Ozarks comes back every summer on her vacation to visit the country church she grew up in. She
visits the preacher, then goes to the church to play the piano and relive young memories.

Voices filled with the excitement of a remembered revival service, or eyes filled with tears of
sweet memories reach out from these hill churches and touch those who hear about the past. A
feeling of awe that can't be explained surrounds each individual, past and present, who come in
contact with the power these churches possess. Everyone from the preacher to the smallest child,
from the member of a church no longer existing to young people hearing about it fall under the
spell that exists only in a country churchouse in these Ozark hills where---

I will lift up mine eyes unto the
hills, from whence cometh my help.

Ordained ministers of the Gospel in the 1940's at Cross Roads Church. They are M. E. Brashur, Bob
Reid, Nelson Reid, Walter Bugher and Curtis Wilson.

We would like to thank Quenton Adams, Curtis Wilson, Lois Roper Beard, Lottle Broyles, I. L. Florence, and R. D.
Patterson for their help on this story.