Thursday, April 15, 2010

As I said in introducing Bardolino Chiaretto, Verona has managed the difficult trick of boasting two great red wines made from the same grapes that are totally different: Valpolicella and Bardolino. Bardolino, which is produced in the lower hills to the west of Valpolicella, along the shore of Lake Garda, is a lighter, livelier wine than its cousin, and is one of the classic Italian quaffing wines.

In terms of numbers, Bardolino is a serious wine: about 20 million bottles were produced in 2009. The primary grapes are Corvina Veronese and Rondinella, while the terrains the roughly 3,000 hectares of vineyards are planted on are primarily of glacial origin -- moraines of one kind or another, which vary from place to place but confer a universal freshness and drinkability.

A couple of words about the 2009 vintage: It was difficult, with a very hot July that drove up alcohol levels by increasing sugar content, and in some areas interfered wit phenolic ripening because it brought drought stress. In this respect it resembled 2003, and we were told that the winemakers who delayed the harvest were wise in hindsight, because there were fall rains that conferred acidity to the grapes.

Last week I gave my impressions of the 2009 Bardolino Chiaretto, and Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante. Here we have my impressions of the 2009 Bardolino, tasted March 7 2010.

Pale slightly orange ruby with some yellow in the rim. The bouquet is spicy, with greenish accents and graphite bitterness more than fruit at present; it's very young and still coming together. On the palate it's ample with moderate sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and bitter tannins more than acidity; the tannins flow into a clean rather bitter finish with a marked tannic burr that is also fairly warm. A good wine for cookouts or other occasions with quickly cooked, zestily flavorful meat dishes; though Carne alla pizzaiola is Neapolitan, it would work well here.

Pale ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with brambly berry fruit supported by some graphite shavings and spice, with traces of heat as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, and rather angry, with graphite shaving bitterness more than fruit and quite a bit of sea salt, while the tannins are, well the Italian word would be ruvido, which means coarse or rough. It's an angry wine that won't work well with genteel foods, but will be nice with succulent grilled meats, for example spare ribs and sausages.

Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and rosy rim fading to white. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with violets and cherry fruit supported by slight greenish acidity. Cheeky. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with hearty vegetable soups, grilled meats and other quickly cooked foods.

Pale ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by some spice and slight peppery accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a clean bright fruit laced tannic finish. Direct, in a wide-eyed way, and very easy to drink; it will go quickly with foods, which is what we want.

Pigeon blood ruby with ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly sour cherry fruit laced with hints of eucalyptus and slight vegetal accents. Fresh. On the palate it's more languid than I expected, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by slight sweetness and by tannins that are very smooth, and though they do have a slight peppery burr that emerges in the finish. It's softer, and gives an impression of being from a hotter vintage; it will work for you if you like smooth soft wines with low acidities, but you have to like that style. Because of its characteristics, it's best suited to drier meats, or perhaps by the glass.

Pale ruby with brilliant ruby reflectioins and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry and red plum fruit mingled with some spice and vinous warmth; it's still developing. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit supported by brisk acidity and by tannins that have a rather rugged burr and flow into a fairly long warm sour berry fruit and tannin finish. Pleasant, in a direct and saucy way, and will be perfect at a cookout, and also work well with legume based dishes (Tuscany's fagioli all'uccelletto come to mind) and other foods that want a wine that is zesty.

Pale ruby with slightly orange rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly candied cherries mingled with sandalwood and some rather greenish accents. On the palate it's ample, with moderate generic berry fruit supported by mineral acidity that's a bit retiring, and by tannins that have a bitter graphite burr and flow into a rather bitter finish. I'd have liked brighter fruit; it's a bit heatstruck.1 star

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with fairly bright vinous accents mingled with tart acidity and some sour berry fruit overtones that increase in intensity as it opens, and also reveal some sandalwood. On the palate it's medium bodied, with ample sour berry fruit supported by moderate slightly greenish berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a savory burr and flow into a rather bitter berry fruit finish with a ruvid tannic underpinning. It's approachable, in a rather dusky brooding key, and will work nicely with succulent grilled meats, for example ribs or chicken with the skin.

Ruby with black reflections and pink rim paling to white. The bouquet is fresh, in a rather swank and seductive sweetish cherry fruit key; there's berry fruit and there's jam, and the impression is luscious. On the palate it's not so soft; there's fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a hot burr and flow into a distinctly bitter tannic finish with a cherry plum underpinning. It will smooth some over the next few months, but the bitterness will remain, and make it a much better candidate to accompany succulent grilled meats or fried meats and vegetables than to be served by the glass. In short, a zesty food wine.

Pale ruby with black reflections and some orange towards the rim. The bouquet is very young, and rather sour, with sour berry fruit supported by acidity and slight greenish accents. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively cherry and forest berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are bright, and have a slight youthful burr. Pleasant, and will drink very well with meat-based pasta dishes, light stews, and grilled meats. An ideal cookout wine, and you will want a second bottle. Worth seeking out.

Barrel sampleElegant pigeon blood ruby with ruby reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasing floral accents mingled with some sandalwood and pleasant underlying spice. On the palate it's fairly bright, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bitterness and mineral acidity, and by light tannins that have a slight savory bitter burr and flow into a clean moderately long tannic finish. Pleasant, and will clean up nicely, drinking well with simple grilled meats or light stews.

Ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by some greenish spice and slight hints of eucalyptus. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with cherry plum fruit supported by greenish sandalwood bitterness from grape, and by moderate acidity, while the tannins have a slight burr, and it all flows into a fairly long greenish vanish with a tannic and alcoholic underpinning. Pleasant, in a slightly hotter weather key than some -- these vineyards may have felt the July heat more -- and also in a slightly more exotic key, thanks overtones the sandalwood, which can appear in Verona's grapes; it will work well with grilled meats or light stews, and also with red sauced pasta dishes.

Barrel sampleDeep cherry ruby with black highlights and ruby reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish berry fruit laced with sandal and slight eucalyptus, also some peppery spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright cherry acidity and by tannins that are rather splintery, and spicy, and need time. On the other hand it is a barrel sample; in the space of a few months it will be quite pleasant in a cheeky rather challenging way, and drink well with grilled meats and all the other fixings of a cookout, or -- for that matter -- of a meat-based summer meal.

Pale slightly almandine ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though more swishing does bring up vinous accents. It's still developing. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a moderately intense burr and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's pleasant, in a bright rather saucy key, and will also be quite versatile, drinking with all sorts of things, from pasta dishes to grilled meats and light stews. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up smoky rather bitter berry fruit that gives an impression of heat. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by warmth and acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's quite aggressive, and also a bit heat struck, and because of its aggressiveness isn't for everyone. If you like the style it will work well with fattier grilled meats, and also with fried meats and vegetables.

Lively black cherry ruby with ruby reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit with delicate sour accents. It's like a person hiding behind a screen. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderately intense berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by fairly smooth tannins that flow into a clean rather dour finish. Quite direct, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.

Pale ruby with lively ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and spice, and some jammy undertones. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright jammy berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that do display a slight burr, and flow into a c élan rather sour cherry finish. Pleasant, in a softer fruit driven key, and quite versatile in a cheeky way; it will drink well with quickly cooked meats or light stews, and will also be nice with hearty pasta dishes, including stuffed pasta dishes.

Pale ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky cherry fruit supported by some spice and savory bitter accents. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense citric acidity and by tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a fairly bright bitter finish. It's aggressive, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews; if you prefer smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you.

Barrel sampleBlack cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit mingled with delicate greenish accents, sandalwood, and some spice. It needs a few months. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by soft acidic warmth, and by tannins that are smooth and have hints of cocoa to them, and flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a slightly lesser key, and though there is the aggressiveness of the vintage, it also is fairly graceful, in a willowy sort of way. It will work well with succulent grilled meats or light stews.

Slightly orange ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is airy, with jammy berry fruit supported by sandalwood and spice; the overall impression is lacy somehow. On the palate it's rich, with fairly sweet jammy berry fruit supported by bright vegetal berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a savory slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with vegetal tannic underpinning. Quite approachable, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and though it does have the capacity to age nicely for a few years I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.

Lively ruby with black reflections and ruby rim paling to white. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and slightly sour berry fruit that has some jammy accents as well. On the palate it's bright, with slightly greenish berry fruit supported by vegetal acidity and tannins that have a greenish sandalwood underpinning and flow into a clean bright greenish berry fruit finish. It's fairly aggressive, in a greenish vegetal key, and if you prefer smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you. But if you like the style it will be nice at a cookout.

Cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with jammy cherry fruit laced floral accents and some greenish sandalwood. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. Pleasant, and though it is from a hot weather vintage it displays a pleasing grace, and will work quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity and tannic brightness necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables.

Lively ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some savory accents and slight alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I expecte, with jammy berry fruit supported by very moderate warm sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm finish. It's a bit settled, and I would have liked more acidity to brighten it. Instead, it's relaxed.1 star

Almandine ruby with lively ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted. Shut tight. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported by dusky bitterness and some mineral acidity, while the tannins are very smooth. It's settled in youth, and I found myself wanting more.1 star

Black cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby highlights, and a white rim. The bouquet is developing, but displays some fairly bright berry fruit laced with hints of sandalwood and warmth. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit that gains definition from greenish berry fruit acidity and is supported by rather aggressive tannins that have a greenish sandalwood burr and flow into a fairly long warm finish. If you like the style, which is fairly aggressive, you will enjoy it; it will work well with fattier grilled meats and vegetables, and also is brash enough to work well with fried foods.

Almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and still coming together, with metallic accents mingled with berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by brisk citric acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly savory burr and flow into a clean bright tannic finish. Pleasant in an aggressive key, or will be when the nose catches up with the palate, and will be perfect at a cookout or with quickly cooked summer foods. If you like the style, expect it to go quickly.

Lively almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, and coming together, with red berry fruit mingled with some wood smoke and some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with rich jammy berry fruit supported by moderately intense sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do have a slight sandalwood burr, and flow into a clean bright slightly sour cherry finish. Pleasant, and quite approachable; it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and is also a wine I would be happy to serve with hearty pasta dishes, or even legume based soups. Worth seeking out.

Pale almandine with lively ruby reflections and rim fading from pink to white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and slight jammy accents. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour berry fruit supported by considerable sour mineral acidity and by tannins that have an aggressive sour sandalwood burr, and flow into a decidedly greenish finish. It's aggressive, in a decidedly underripe key that suggests heat problems in the vineyards, and is a wine that you should consider only if you like the style. If you do like this sort of brash aggressiveness, it will be good at a cookout or with fried meats and vegetables.

Deeper black almandine with ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and alcohol. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with moderate frankly generic berry fruit supported by minerality and peppery spice, and by tannins that are smooth and soft. It'ìs settled, and isn't going to perk up with time.

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some jammy cherry fruit supported by slight greenish spicy accents. But the shutters are closed. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample greenish berry fruit supported by sour greenish sandalwood acidity, and by tannins that have a fierce peppery sandalwood burr and flow into a clean rather greenish cherry finish. The overall impression is fairly languid, in an almost slinky 20's moll style, and it will drink nicely with simple pasta dishes or light grilled meats and stews. It grew upon me.2 stars

Lively black almandine with brilliant ruby reflections and pale ruby rim fading to pink. The bouquet is muted, and isn't letting anyone know what it's up to. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense sour berry fruit that has a dilute feel to it, supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a decidedly splintery burr and flow into a warm splintery finish. I'd have liked more richness to the fruit, and more unity to the tannins, which are quite aggressive. Because of its aggressiveness it will work well with fatty meats, but you have to like the style.1 star

Santi Vigneto Cá Bordensis Bardolino Classico DOC 2009

Lively black almandine with ruby reflections and pink rim fading to white. The bouquet is still developing, but displays pleasant cherry fruit that is slightly jammy and has some greenish accents. Bright. On the palate it's full for a Bardolino, with ample red berry fruit supported by warmth and clean fairly smooth tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish. The fruit is pleasant, and when it all comes together, in a few months' time, it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key, and work well with quickly cooked meats or simple pasta dishes, especially those with red sauces.

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by tart berry fruit acidity and clean spice with some mentholated accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright dusky berry fruit supported by slightly greenish sandalwood acidity and tannins that have a slight greenish sandalwood burr and flow into a clean greenish finish. Pleasant, in a fairly direct and quite approachable key (it's nowhere near as brash as many), and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the zest to work with fried meats and vegetables. A friendly wine, and fried lamb chops sound good.

Lively youthful almandine ruby with zesty ruby reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit mingled with wood smoke. On the palate it's very young, with moderate berry fruit supported by a peppery burr that is in part from petillance, and by decidedly bitter tannins that flow into a bitter finish. It's a bit up in the air, and I'm not sure how well it will fall.

Lively black almandine with black reflections and ruby highlights, and a ruby pink rim. The bouquet is bright, with cherry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity and slight jammy accents. Nice depth, though very young. On the palate it's soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by slight acidity, and by tannins that manage to be both flighting and green, and flow into a bitter savory finish. It feels as if the vineyard took a great burst of heat in July.1 star

Lively pale ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sandalwood-laced cherry fruit supported by clean greenish accents. Still developing, but pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and have a slight burr. Pleasant in a graceful, not too charged key, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats -- burgers come to mind. Elegant burgers cooked over charcoal. Worth seeking out.

Dusky black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is brambly, with greenish accents mingled with sour cherry fruit and hints of barnyard tang as well. A bit more rustic than many. On the palate it's bright, with fairly lively cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are peppery and warm, while the overall mouthfeel is ample -- it's like a spreading wave, and is a bit of a surprise. It's more particular than many, and I found myself wanting better definition, and also less aggressiveness to the tannins, which do light a fire. It was likely heatstruck in July.

Lively black almandine with ruby reflections and rim fading to pink and white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some floral accents mingled with sea salt and spice. On the palate it's ample and rather lax, with moderate fruit that is supported by some minerality, and by tannins that are decidedly splintery and flow into a splintery finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit.

Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, and cheeky, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by slightly brambly acidity and slight greenish accents, On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by clean slightly greenish tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. Pleasant, and rather graceful, and will drink quite nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the zestiness necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. Refreshing.

Barrel sampleLively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit in the air, with cherry fruit laced with some graphite shavings and clean spice. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by bitter accents and some berry fruit. It's not as rich on the palate as I might have hoped from the nose.

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and slightly medicinal, with cherry fruit supported by bitterness and iodine with a degree of airiness as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do have a slight greenish burr that flows into a warm tannic finish. Pleasant in a rather zesty key, and will dink quite well with cookout foods and similar.

Pale almandine with black reflections and ruby highlights, and pink rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by some greenish sandalwood accents and spice. Welcoming in a cheeky way. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with jammy berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly soft finish. Pleasant in a softer more fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. Even if you prefer more aggressive wines you will find things to think about.

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, of the shutters closed and nobody home variety. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by greenish very bitter tannins that have an angry graphite shaving burr and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's quite green, and quite aggressive, and if you like the style, which lights a fire on the tongue, it will work well with fattier grilled meats, or with fried meats and vegetables.1 star

Barrel sampleLively black almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, which can happen in a barrel sample. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and promises quite well; it will be graceful in a not too aggressive key, and given the brashness of many 2009 wines this is nice. Quite welcoming, and also versatile, a direct food wine that will contribute nicely to the table.

Lively black almandine with black reflections and ruby highlights, and pink rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with jam laced sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish sandalwood accents. On the palate it's rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight greenish burr, and flow into a clean bright sandalwood laced berry fruit finish. Pleasant and will work quite well with hearty pasta dishes, risotti, and also simple grilled meats or light stews. In other words, versatile, and quite pleasant to drink.

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, thouygh swishing brings up some jammy berry fruit supported by spice. It need time to fully develop, however -- at least until June 2010.On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and considerable warmth, as well as tannins that have a warm greenish burr and flow into a clean tannic finish. Direct and up front, and wine that will work well with foods, ranging from risotti and pasta dishes through simple grilled meats and stews, supporting what it's served with rather than demanding the limelight. There is a place for these wines, and there can never be enough of them.

Lively almandine with ruby reflections and rim that pales to pink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit that has some sweetish accents and slight candied notes. On the palate it's fresh, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have some sandalwood to them, and flow into lasting warmth. Pleasant, in a warm graceful key, and though it won't work if you want the smooth softness of a Merlot, it is pleasant, and will work very well with all sorts of things, from risotto through meat based pasta sauces and on to simple grilled meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.

Bright black cherry ruby with black reflections, ruby highlights, and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity with some greenish accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with farly rich greenish cherry fruit supported by lively mineral citric acidity, and by tannins that are warm and have a sandalwood underpinning, and flow into a clean warm finish. It's pleasant in a rather cheeky slightly aggressive key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and also with fried meats or vegetables.

Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit but not much else. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by some citric acidity, and by smooth tannins that have a slight greenish burr to them, and flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. I'd have liked more zest to the wine, which is a bit settled, and with fruit that isn't as bright or as intense as it might have been.

1 star

Costermano

Costermano Poderi Oppi Pellegrini Bardolino DOC 2009

Barrel SampleDusky black almandine with shadowy ruby reflections and rim that pales to white. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by some greenish spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by rather evanescent acidity, and soft tannins that flow into a soft finish. It's smooth, but lacking in richness, and I'd have liked more brightness to the fruit.

Lively almandine with brilliant electric ruby reflections and black rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit with brambly acidity and greenish accents with some underlying spice. On the palate it's medium bodied and soft, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by sandalwood acidity and smooth tannins that do have a peppery burr, and flow into a fairly long warm berry fruit finish. Direct, and fairly simple, it will do a nice job of supporting what it's served with, without hogging the limelight, and this is what the vast majority of wine is all about.

Pale ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up sour cherry fruit supported by slight greenish accents and spice. It's still developing. On the palate it's quite soft on the outset, with fairly rich, fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity and smooth tannins that have a peppery burr, while the acidity becomes progressively warmer as the fruit fades. It's direct, and up front, and will drink well with hearty risotti, red sauced pasta dishes, and simple grilled or stewed meats, while the acidity is such that it will work well with fried meats and vegetables too,. In short, versatile.

Pale ruby with ruby reflections and white rim with hints of orange overtones it. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some spice and acidity with vinous overtones. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with a slightly splintery tannic underpinning. It's up front, and quite direct in a brash acidic but not too aggressive key, and will drink quite well with foods, ranging from risotto through red-sauced pasta dishes and up to simple cooked meats. Versatile, and will go quickly. You may want a second bottle.

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some sour cherry fruit supported by moderate brambly acidity and greenish spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a splintery green burr and flow into a clean peppery finish with considerable sour berry fruit underpinning. It's aggressive in a cheeky teenaged sort of way, and will drink well with grilled meats fried foods, and such, In other words, summer meats. If you like smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you, but if you like brasher more aggressive wines it is appealing.

Pale almandine ruby with black highlights, ruby reflections, and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit mingled with spice and some brambly accents. On the palate it's maple and soft, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm fairly tart finish. It's less aggressive than some, because the tannins lack that angry burr, but is lively, with considerable acidity, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary for fried foods. Versatile in a slightly less aggressive key than some, and I found myself warming to it.

2 stars

San Zeno

San Zeno Bardolino Classico DOC 2009

Pale almandine ruby with lively ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by some pleasant greenish accents. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with jammy berry fruit that has some hints of cranberry jelly supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and quite approachable in a fairly seductive key; though it is brash with considerable acidity there is a curviness to it as well, and it will work nicely with grilled meats, or fried foods -- lamb chops, but also chicken -- and as such is a perfect summer wine. If you like this rather brash style you will enjoy it.

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish brambly accents and sour berry fruit mingled with some spice. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense greenish cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet rather languid tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish.

Lively black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and vinous with some cherry fruit underpinning and slight spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity that's quite clean and quite bright, while the tannins are smooth and flow into a clean sour cherry fruit finish. Graceful, in a lithe key, and will drink very nicely with foods, especially summer favorites such as mixed grilled or fried meats. Worth seeking out.

Lively garnet ruby with dusky ruby reflections. The bouquet is eye opening, with peach skin and berry fruit aromas whose combination somehow brings a chinato wine to mind, with some hints of brown sugar as well. Completely unexpected from a Bardolino, and there's also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and rather sweet, with very little fruit -- sweetness, and slightly greenish tannic notes that flow into a soft finish. Something must have happened in the cellars, because it differs from all the other wines poured, and lacks the careless freshness that is a hallmark of Bardolino.

Lively black almandine with dusky ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with berry fruit and spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry fruit supported by graceful sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish with some tannic underpinning and pleasant acidity. Graceful, and will drink nicely with a wide variety of foods, from risotti though grilled and fried meats. Expect it to go quickly, and you may want a second bottle.2 stars

Deep black almandine with fait ruby reflections, considerable black highlights, and ruby rim. It's quite dark for a Bardolino. The bouquet is developing; there is some fruit, and hints of something chemical -- not quite white glue but in that direction -- and some savory accents as well. Needs a few months. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by warmth and smooth sweet tannins that flow from underneath the surface to provide direction, and lead into a finish that becomes quite warm. It's not what I expect of a Bardolino, which should be lithe and nimble. This is much more settled, and gives an impression of trying to be bigger than it should be.1 star

Pale almandine ruby with lively ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish mentholated berry fruit supported by some sour berry fruit acidity and by savory accents, with slight sandalwood as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, and decidedly zestier than I expected, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by a strong peppery burr that comes from slight petiallnce and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. This sort of burr is a bit rustic, and is something that was more common in the past. This said, though it is a negative in terms of the evaluation of a still wine, the wine will drink well with succulent grilled meats or other foods that beg something to clean the palate between bites.

Barrel samplePale almandine ruby with brilliant reflections, black highlights, and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather greenish, with red berry fruit supported by greenish accents, some sandalwood, and airy spice. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm berry fruit finish. It's approachable in a riper, richer key than many, and if you like wines that have more fruit and less brashness you may prefer it, though it remains very much a Bardolino.

Deep black almandine with lively ruby reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and vinous, with some greenish brambly accents as well, and some green leather, which is a bit unusual for Bardolino. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate berry fruit that's frankly generic supported by citric acidity that becomes rather warm, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface. It gives an impression of trying to be bigger and more important than it is. And this isn't really what Bardolino is all about.

Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is is bright, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by greenish menthpated accents, with underlying jammy sweetness as well. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with bright sour cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a decidedly warm finish. Pleasant in a more fruit driven and less brash key; though there is the aggressiveness of the acidity, which lasts and lasts, the tannins are not angry, and this is certainly positive. It remains very much a Bardolino, but is more approachable than some, and offers a nice introduction to the genre.2 stars

Lively ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry ruby rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly balsamic berry fruit supported by spice and savory accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright cherry finish. It's quite approachable, displaying considerable polish, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also with risotti or pasta dishes. By comparison with many of the other Bardolini presented it is considerably less aggressive, and as such it is much more approachable, and offers a good introduction to the wine if you have never tried it.2 stars

Attn: Wine Retailers

Links

IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.