The setup I ran in Snowbirds is the same setup I have run pretty much everywhere:

- .45 1/10th front springs, kingpin almost touching the rim
- Mid track width in front
- 3/4 degree of camber
- 10 degree blocks (adjust shims as needed. Start all back, if car diffs out, start putting them forward one at a time until it stops)
- White center spring, stock shock oil
-.45 side springs, just touching, tweak from there
- 7k in the tubes
-very little rear droop. just enough to tell the pod is drooping
-200mm rear track width
-Battery in line to the front
-Speed control mounted behind battery, receiver in front of the battery
-Protoform GT body (when using this body, I use the #1757 carbon bumper as it is a little longer and helps "fill up" the long nose of this body
- I use the GFRP body post set (available through CRC) in the rear with this body. I use it on all four corners with other bodies
- I only glue my front tires half way up. Doing this has no impact on handling but will allow some rubbing of the track barriers.
-7/8 front tire traction (don't be afraid to reduce this if it is too much for you.)

need some help guys...just picked up an original gen x 10 car and it didn't have the proper shock it.started to email crc and then they fell off the face of the earth...does anybody happen to know the part numbers for the shock and spacer ball that goes in the shouck for the aluminum/graphite shock mount ? thanks

The setup I ran in Snowbirds is the same setup I have run pretty much everywhere:

- .45 1/10th front springs, kingpin almost touching the rim
- Mid track width in front
- 3/4 degree of camber
- 10 degree blocks (adjust shims as needed. Start all back, if car diffs out, start putting them forward one at a time until it stops)
- White center spring, stock shock oil
-.45 side springs, just touching, tweak from there
-very little rear droop. just enough to tell the pod is drooping
-200mm rear track width
-Battery in line to the front
-Speed control mounted behind battery, receiver in front of the battery
-Protoform GT body (when using this body, I use the #1757 carbon bumper as it is a little longer and helps "fill up" the long nose of this body
- I use the GFRP body post set (available through CRC) in the rear with this body. I use it on all four corners with other bodies
- I only glue my front tires half way up. Doing this has no impact on handling but will allow some rubbing of the track barriers.
-7/8 front tire traction (don't be afraid to reduce this if it is too much for you.)

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask

Brian Wynn

Team CRC

Hi Brian,

Congratulations for your win at the Snowbirds. You had me glued to the LiveRC coverage rooting you on.

How about a setup for the old CRC gray carpet? Only changes I have been using (since IIC) from what you have above are .50 front/side springs and a red center spring with more rear pod droop.

Do have a Team Scream motor on order...and patiently waiting for it. LOL

i know this isn't the right thread but i need all the help i can get...i have an original gen x 10 and i was wondering if anyboy has part# 3337..the 7/8 standoff for the losi shock..if you have one that you'd be willing to part with then please pm me...thanks

Setup is much more important and sensitive in on-road than off-road. Make sure you have everything balanced and setup correctly before running it.

I guarantee you it will be a much more fun and better experience!

From what I've read in this thread on the previous pages, I'm going to build straight from the book to start. Looks like I'll just need some ballast to balance the car to offset my electronics? Is there any "balance station" or setup type plates you guys use while doing this or just some common sense and see how the car acts n the track?

From what I've read in this thread on the previous pages, I'm going to build straight from the book to start. Looks like I'll just need some ballast to balance the car to offset my electronics? Is there any "balance station" or setup type plates you guys use while doing this or just some common sense and see how the car acts n the track?

Just try your best to put your electronics in line, keep the weight balanced.

Check earlier posts a page or two back on how to adjust tweak without any tools. It's the easiest and best method IMO. You just life the front, check the tire and adjust accordingly.

From what I've read in this thread on the previous pages, I'm going to build straight from the book to start. Looks like I'll just need some ballast to balance the car to offset my electronics? Is there any "balance station" or setup type plates you guys use while doing this or just some common sense and see how the car acts n the track?

There are two small centered holes at the front and rear of the chassis that are for use with "balance buttons" to check the side-to-side weights. I need to check where I got those buttons. Have been using them to initially setup my on-road cars for over 10 years.

Edit: Ah ha! They are called IRS Balance Buttons #3020 which are still available from Muddslide Motorsports for $11.70. Note: These are far superior to the ones offered by Hudy...for more money.

John, feel free to call me here at CRC. Or email me. Actually that goes for anyone on here, regardless of car brand. I have worked on just about all of them.

You've already helped me indirectly Brian. Chris from our club picked your brain at the birds and brought your setup ideas for our track back with him and they worked perfectly. I posted what I have the WGT-R thread and the car is very driveable now. I just need to get more practice at certain aspects of braking and carrying more corner speed. I tend to drive too safely. I always finish, but hardly ever first.

__________________
John Higgins former student of The Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driving School. The "Team Principal".

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