1. Place the beef in a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan and pour in 3 to 4 cups of cold water-enough to just cover the meat. Bring to a boil over high heat and, as the scum begins to rise to the surface of the water, skim it carefully.

2. Then stir in the soy sauce, wine, sugar, ginger and star anise, and partially cover the pan. Reduce the heat to moderate and cook the beef, adjusting the heat to keep the liquid at a simmer, for 2˝ to 3 hours, or until it shows no resistance when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife.

3. There should be about 1 cup of cooking liquid left in the pan. If there is more, remove the cover and increase the heat somewhat, and cook until the liquid is reduced. Add the sesame-seed oil and simmer slowly for another 10 minutes.

4. When the meat is done, transfer it to a carving board and, with a cleaver or sharp knife, cut it into the thinnest possible slices. Arrange them attractively in overlapping layers on a heated platter. Remove and discard the ginger and star anise, and pour the braising sauce over the beef.

5. Or you may, if you wish, serve the beef cold. In that event, let the unsliced beef cool in the sauce. Then refrigerate it until you are ready to serve it. Carve the beef into paper-thin slices and serve it with or without the braising sauce.