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SAN ANTONIO — In a good slice of pizza, the crust performs a delicate balance of pliability and sturdiness, flexible enough to be folded but sturdy enough to hold together.

When it misses the mark, it's frustrating, but when it's done right, it's nearly ineffable, and it's a factor that elevates the pizza at Sapore's.

The pizzas here are very good, enough to make a special trip from different parts of town.

We tried a hearty specialty, the Pavarotti Favorite, with pepperoni, Italian sausage, salami and bacon. It was appropriately meaty but with a deft touch — not so much meat that it overwhelmed the rest of the pie. Indeed, this pizza allowed the flavor of the crust, along with just the right amount of sauce and cheese, to come through and mix with the various meats.

The combination of sauce, crust and cheese reminded me of the kind of place in New York where you order a slice from a window that opens out to the sidewalk. If you want to eat the slice right next to the window or take a few bites of the folded slice while walking, it doesn't matter.

The sense of balance and restraint evident in the pizza also came through in a meaty and hearty lasagna. The nicely seasoned ground beef combined with a flavorful red sauce and just enough cheese for a satisfying dish. Thank goodness, this place didn't cover the lasagna with an avalanche of cheese. Like the pizza, all the different elements had a good sense of balance.

Even the side salads here show care. Most pizza places just throw some iceberg lettuce or maybe some romaine with some mediocre bottled dressing for their salads. Instead, these are fresh spring greens, carefully tossed with house-made dressing. It's a nice touch.

Like the red sauce in the pizza and lasagna, the sauce for the classic spaghetti and meatballs elevated the pasta, but the meatballs had some funky undertaste, almost like an herb that seemed out of place with the other flavors. It was a shame, because the meatballs had a good texture, not too tough or soft.