Fragrance Fuss: The SCCNFP

October 25, 2010

2 minute read

If you’ve never heard of the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non Food Products, otherwise known by the rather boring acronym, SCCNFP, then you’re in good company. Not many people have. And yet, their research into fragrance ingredients could potentially cause such disruption to the fragrance industry that it will never be the same again. Basically, it is formed of academics and scientists who have a remit from the EU Commission to investigate fragrance toxicity and fragrance allergens. This is all well and good, of course, to ensure safe products that won’t have you wheezing or scratching, but it encompasses so many fragrance ingredients, including the natural essences that are vital to the very heart of a fragrance that perfumiers everywhere are wondering what on earth they can put into their perfumes that will pass regulations.

The entire thing is intensely complicated and far surpasses my understanding of chemicals and toxicity, but looking at a somewhat outdated list of banned substances (information on the SCCNFP work is suprisingly hard to find), these include for example, fig leaf, musk ambrette and Verbena due to their sensitizing potential. Verbena is permitted under great restrictions, however. Also under restriction are Oakmoss and Treemoss, Cumin oil, Cinnamon Bark Oil, and any furocoumarin-like substances (furocoumarin being a class of organic chemical compounds produced by a variety of plants) which would include Bergamot oil, grapefruit oil, lemon oil, lime oil and orange peel oil. These I have chosen from a list of many, many substances, but are the most recognisable to illustrate the point. Under restiction means that they are allowed but only in controlled quantities.

So, still I totally understand that allergies aren’t good and we don’t want fragrances to have a deleterious effect on the user. But rather than ban substances that allow for creative and imaginative new fragrances to come on the market, why not label them just as peanut products are labelled, with a caution? This legislation, which I hear is currently investigating substances such as Jasmine, which has been used since from ancient Egyptian times, will have the most dramatic effect on small, niche fragrance houses who don’t want to produce chemically laden perfume, but raw and exciting aromas that will tantalize our ever growing need to smell gorgeous. The larger fragrance houses won’t have any trouble replacing what little natural ingredients they do actually use with even more chemicals.

One well known small fragrance house is withdrawing five fragrances because the chemical alternative will not make the same scent. They’d rather withdraw than produce an inferior perfume.

To use the peanut analogy again, I know perfectly well that this is an ingredient that can actually kill if a person is sufficiently sensitive to it, and yet it commands only a warning on product labelling. I never in my life heard of someone who died because they smelled Jasmine.

*all products are sent to me as samples from brands and agencies unless otherwise stated. Affiliate links may be used. Posts are not affiliate driven.

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6 comments

No one may die from simply smelling a fragrance but when sprayed onto or near the body there is risk of ingestion which could lead to this (we don’t know either way). Also with the increasing risks of sensitisation because more and more people are allergic and sensitive then a persons skin may react quite badly in the same way people react to food and products. I can see where ur coming from tho maybe a warning is better than banning altogether but I did come across a toxicology report for a famous perfume and I was shocked so will never purchase it again

The problem with fragrance isn’t potential danger to the wearer, but potential danger to the surrounding people. This is because unlike peanuts, fragrance is formulated to be volatile, hence it smells. I’ve personally had asthma attacks as a kid in response to a long elevator ride with a very heavily perfumed ladies. But no one has died sniffing perfume yet, and asthmatics carry inhalers with them at all times anyway.So I am against the kind of banning of perfume ingredients that’s going on in Europe. And of course big brands will support this, this way the government is helping them rid of their competition. Its a smart short term business decision, although I do believe that it will bite them in the rear in a long run.

In this case I am more concerned for the “innocent bystanders” than for the perfume users. 🙂

The peanuts are for you, the perfume is also for other people. When you wear perfume, it is highly noticeable for anyone around you, who may or may not have the option of removing themselves.

And sadly, when people get used to their own perfumes, they get “immune” and apply more and more. So they walk around not knowing how strongly they smell.

I suffer from migraines, and I have literally had to get off a bus because of people overdoing it with perfume. Perfume in the wrong place and at the wrong time can trigger an attack which leaves me useless for up to three days (!)I can’t begin to think of what it would be like for someone with asthma.

I seem to be alergic to one or a few of the common ingredients in perfume/. I have never worn it myself as just smelling it on other people is bad enough for me. Being stuck in a car or bus with someone wearing perfume makes me feel pretty ill. Selfishly I guess I’m pro the ban

I am allergic to many many things that are featured in Beauty products. However, of the many, I have only managed to isolate a few so far. Those ones I look for on labels to try and avoid wasted money when I have a severe reaction. Unfortunately, one of the things I have a strong reaction too, keeps slipping through the net because it can be known by more than 14 different names.Makes it very hard for me to purchase things. The reactions are horrible; varying from slight itching, raised bumps, to welts, severe swelling and weeping.Frankly, I’m grateful for anything that helps narrow down the range of ingredients that might affect me.

I think it’s the EU gone bonkers, once again. I listen to Roja Dove speak at the V&A last week and he explained that Chanel No5 had to be changed because it had basil in it, which is now banned. You can eat it, but you can’t spray it…mad.