If it is an old one, like 60 70 80s 13 ml bolts round the rim, if newer, poss the Greece cover on the hub, tap it off, then undo the split pin if it has one, could be nyloc nut on it, also could be left hand thread, remove it after tacing caliper off, if drum undo the cable knurled knob full pin out of bent hook like fork, and then disconnect speedo, pull wheel off. straight forward whichever.

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Hi, speedo hubs work in quite a few ways. 2 notches, 4 notches, rotating flange etc. Check the section the hub fits onto/into make sure the hub and its counter part are a mirror image configuration. See if turning the hub gently onto/into its counterpart will allow the hub to fully seat. I have had many problems with my Suzuki SV I have to make sure the hub and the front wheel speedo drive section are fully mated before refitting the front wheel.

At this point, you are probably better off bringing it in under waranty because if its evident you messed with it, they might try to void your waranty. Thayt being said, have you tried running it with the gas cap removed? If the cap is bad it can create a partial vacuum in the tank and produce the symptoms you describe.

Semi inflate the inner tube a little as this helps prevent it getting nipped between the two sides of the wheel on assembly. And a bit of grease on the wheel halves helps the tyre to slide into the bead better.
Or do what I and a lot of scooterists are doing..............scrapping the old half & half steel wheels and replacing them with alloy tubeless ones from SIP Scooters. Available in polished alloy or matt black with polished rim. They look good, don't rust and are lighter but the real improvement is that they are far less prone to blow-outs, punctures and rapid deflation all of which increase the safety tenfold. They cost around £50 - £60 each but you can't put a price on safety.