We've been looking for furniture for our guest room for awhile. We checked out sleeper sofas and they were in the hefty price range for anything remotely cute or comfortable. We looked at just having a air bed in the closet and blowing it up when people came over, but we still didn't know what to do with all of our stuff. The guest room had become the dumping ground for all random containers of stuff.

So, after some brainstorming and a little Pinterest browsing, I decided we needed something that involved storage. I sketched up a storage daybed and off to home depot I went. It took a few days of building after work and a little patience, but I couldn't be happier with it. And the total price tag, for everything including paint and hardware was about $. I love it so much that I think we are going to make a slightly shorter version for our master bedroom, to store all of our hiking gear.

This table is perfect for a beginner builder. The cuts are straightforward, it's inexpensive and you can adjust the sizes easily, if needed. I knocked this out in a few hours after work one day, and that included my trip to the store for lumber. So if building intimidates you, this could be a great starting point.

Start by making a box out of your 1"x4" pieces. Use a carpenter's square and/or an angle square to make sure it's a true 90 degree angle.

I used my trusty Kreg Jig to create the pocket holes, set to a 3/4" thick board and using 1.25" Kreg screws.

Once you have your box built, go ahead and add the 2"x2" support pieces parallel to the 33.5" sides of the box. Make sure they are flush with the edge of the box. These will eventually be what you secure your table top to.

Next you want to take your angled pieces and nail them to the frame and to the support beams, as shown in the picture. This will help keep your table from wobbling.

Set your box aside and make your tabletop. You'll do this with you Kreg Jig and 1"x10" pieces. I used 4 pocket holes for each board that was being joined.

Now you're ready to put all of the pieces together. Start by laying the table top upside down (pocket holes up) and the center the box on top of it (angled pieces on top). Nail the pieces together - I used 2" nails and went from the underside. I did test a two scrap pieces of wood to make sure it wouldn't go through and show on the tabletop, before doing it on my actual table.

Next up are the table legs. I used 2 pocket holes on the inside of the table, but found that alone to be wobbly. So I went back and used 2 nails per leg, from the outside of the box. It worked perfectly and the table is incredibly sturdy.

Once your table is completed, it's time to give it a good sanding. I used a power sander and 220 grit paper, spending a little extra time making sure the table top and and table sides were smooth, since that is what people would most often brush up against.

Once sanded, vacuum or brush off the sawdust and then wipe with a rag to make sure that the surface is clean.

Now you're ready to finish your table however you like! I chose to do a dark stain (Rustoleum in Kona, my fav), but paint would be equally beautiful.

My process for stain is to use a wood conditioner, then stain, then a water-based polycrilic sealant. For paint, I typically go for a all-in-one product that is low odor and quick dry. Valspar is one that I use often.

And there you have it! A brand new, simple table that your family can enjoy! If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments and I will post a reply answer. Happy Building!

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We added a new page! Click here to check out Our Favorite Tools! We use these bad boys to build all of our DIY Projects.

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When we moved to Asheville and into a house (instead of a condo), we decided to take our time filling the space up with furniture rather than rush out and get new things. Both Serial and I are learning how to build our own furniture and it's much more fun (and affordable) to take our time working on each piece. I love me some Ikea, don't get me wrong, but this furniture that we build is just so solid. Not to mention, exactly what we need for our space since we draw up the plans & dimensions ourselves.

The first thing I tackled was a desk for the home office. I work from home full-time so having a space that is organized and dedicated to work is important. The first few weeks that we lived here, this was my set-up.

It's not awful and it worked for awhile, but long-term this just isn't going to cut it. Check out those Peonies though - so pretty. Serial found them growing in our front yard and brought them in to my desk one day. Instant happy.

Back to the desk. I had been searching around for desk inspiration and found two things that I loved. The first is the massive desk that Young House Love built for their last home office. The second is the tower desk from Ana White. I knew I wanted to combine these two desks somehow so I drew it out with the dimensions for the room. I'll be honest... I'm still learning so this took a good hour just to figure out what lumber I needed to buy.

The desk I built ended up being really large, but I love it. If you follow the plan below you'll end up with 3 towers and one continual desktop. The overall dimensions of the desk are 10' L x 20" D x 30" H, but you could easily adjust this to your space.

First, I assembled the 3 towers. It's important to take your time and make sure that each joint is square. I stop after each step and make sure that it's square and that the overall piece is level. Annoying? Yes. But not more annoying than finishing a tower and having it wobble or be uneven.

2"x2" pieces make each side of the tower. The legs are 29.25" and each horizontal support piece is 16.25"

Attaching the shelves to the tower sides

(2) 1"x4" and (1) 1"x10" join to make each shelf

The completed side pieces and shelves for the tower, ready to be assembled

The towers, before sanding and finishing

Once the towers are assembled, give them a good sanding and then wipe them down with a dry brush or rag. I decided to paint the towers white so I chose to use paintable caulk to seal up some of the gaps between pieces of wood. This step is totally optional, I just like the way it creates a more "finished" look. If you're staining your piece, use wood filler instead.

To use the caulk, you basically just run a thin strip of caulk in the gap, then use your finger or a little caulking tool (5 bucks at hardware store) to smooth it out. Wipe off excess with a wet rag.

Before the caulking tool

After the caulking tool

Once the caulk dried, I painted all of the towers white. I used Valspar in a satin finish. While they were drying, I started to get my desktop panels ready. I sanded them thoroughly and made sure that they were smooth. Then I wiped them down with a dry brush and a dry rag to remove all dust.

I decided to stain the desktop. I like the contrast of the white paint and the dark stain. I'm a big fan of using pre-conditioner before stain. I think it helps the stain absorb more evenly and consistently. So I did one good coat of pre-conditioner and let it sink in for 10 minutes.

Next up was the stain. I used Rustoleum in Kona and LOVE the color. It took three coats to achieve the dark color I was hoping for, but the time was well spent. Here's how it looks through the stages of staining. If you've never stained before, you basically paint or foam roll it on, then let it sit for a few minutes. Not long enough to dry or pool though. Then you use an old rag to wipe away the excess. Let it dry then you repeat this process until it reached the color you're looking for.

The difference between painting the stain on and wiping it off 5 minutes later

One coat vs two coats

Three coats of Kona stain

I let the boards dry overnight then used my nail gun to attach them to the towers. Since they are so large, it took some maneuvering to make sure everything was even and level, but once it was all lined up it was a breeze. After it was nailed into place, I used a water based Polycrilic sealant to protect it. I opted for three coats, sanding lightly between coats, and let the final coat dry for a full 24 hours to be safe.

It's been a few days since then and it's definitely durable. I have my computers, phone and food/drinks on it all day and it seems to be holding up really well. I still need to decorate the room and add some organizational items, but here is how it looks today.

I'll be back with pics once I get it all prettied up, but I couldn't wait any longer to share the plans. If you have any questions about building it or about the tools I used, leave them in the comments and I will answer you with a reply comment. :-)

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Today I'm linking up for the (unofficial) Winter Pinterest Challenge. I say unofficial because it's not hosted by Pinterest, but it IS hosted by a couple of my favorite DIY bloggers. Check out the list and visit their sites to see all of the amazing projects that people have linked up.

The idea is to stop pinning (gasp!) and start doing. Take one (or ten) of those pins and actually DO them. This has been a busy week for me so I didn't tackle anything brand new, but I have done a few projects based on Pinterest in the past so I'm (sorta) cheating and just dusting those posts off for this challenge.

First up, the coffee crate table. This is one of my most popular posts and it's largely because of Pinterest. I had seen a picture of a crate table floating around, but no tutorial so I decided to make my own and share it.

Next up, the children's height ruler. Anyone on Pinterest knows that this one is everywhere. There are loads of versions out there so if you're thinking about building one, just browse around and see what speaks to you.

The ruler I built was for my friend's sweet daughter and it hangs in her nursery. We kept the ruler neutral so she could let all of her kids use it (one day) and just mark their heights with different colors. They'll eventually move it to their playroom, but for now it looks so cute where it is.

Last, but not least, is the headboard made from basic lumber. The whole project took two afternoons, including dry time for the stain, and cost less than $40. I whitewashed the boards so that you can still see the grain and knots in the wood.

A headboard is a simple way to make a bedroom look more polished. We don't have any art on our walls yet, but this gives our room character and makes it look less like a plain 'ole boring bedroom.

If you like what you read, we would love to hear from you in the comments section! It's fun to get feedback and it helps us create future posts. And be sure to stay in touch on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest or RSS!

When we first moved into our condo, we didn't have any furniture. Not even one little nightstand. When we left Damascus and set out on our hike, we decided to downsize all of our "stuff" and try to live with less. So when we returned to city life and resumed living in space larger than a tent, we purchased a new couch and a new bed, but decided to build or thrift shop for everything else (and only the things we really needed).

I searched around for a good nightstand for the bedroom, but everything I found was dated or too expensive so I decided to build one myself. I find the whole process of taking a pile of lumber and turning it into furniture fun and rewarding. And as a major bonus, you get the exact size and features you want for much less money.

The final dimensions for this nightstand were 16.25" D x 27.5" W x 27.25" H. I originally planned to have one big open space with no shelves, but when I built it that way, it looked funny. So I went back and added a shelf.

The cut list below is for the version with the shelf. The one in the picture (if you can see it) is for the version without the shelf, since that was what I originally drew up.

For a list of the tools I use and a look at my workshop, click here and here.

The first thing I do when I build is to make all of my cuts and lay them out to make sure they fit together the way I had hoped. Next I mark where all of the pocket holes and pilot holes will be with a pencil. If you're planning to stain, keep the pencil marks light so you don't see them through the stain.

Once I mark everything and double-check everything, I break out the Kreg Jig and drill bits to make all the pocket and pilot holes, respectively. Then I sand of the pieces (I used a power sander for the edges and a sanding block for the surfaces) and get ready to start building. The picture above shows my pieces, ready to go.

(Note, at this point I hadn't planned for the shelf so you don't see those pieces, I added those later when I decided to add them. For the shelf you will add an additional shelf and two additional shelf borders).

Use wood glue and clamps to add the shelf edges to the side panels.

Attach the legs to the side panels.

These are the resulting side panels.

Attach one of the shelves to the bottom of the side panels. If you are including a second shelf, add that as well.

Add the shelf borders to the front and back of each shelf and to the top of the table.

Add a shelf edge to the top of the table, to be used as a support for the tabletop.

To make the table top, join the tabletop edges to the table top, using pocket holes.

Use finishing nails and wood glue to attach the tabletop to the base unit.

Fill all of pocket holes with wood filler, let it dry then sand it off with a sanding block. Give the whole piece another light sanding, vacuum away any sawdust and then wipe with a damp rag to grab any last remaining dust.

The final step is prime and paint/stain your piece. I chose to use Behr paint in Distant Thunder to keep with the color scheme in our bedroom. I also made a taller version with 3 shelves to use as a bookcase. This plan is a simple and easy way to give yourself storage space on a budget.

If you like what you read, I would love to hear from you in the comments section! It's fun to get feedback and it helps me create future posts. And be sure to stay in touch on Facebook,Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest or RSS!

A headboard can really make a bedroom feel complete, but the price tag can be a bit ridiculous. I've been wanting one for our new home so I did what I always do... I drew up plans to make it myself! Turns out it is so simple to do and all total it cost me less than $40. And while that makes my heart happy, the best part is that it's exactly what I wanted. Man, I really love DIY.

For my headboard, I knew I wanted something that was 5' wide and about 4'-5' tall. The following plans will give you a headboard that is 37"(h) x 60"(w), not including the support beams. The total height, including the beams is 53". You can easily adjust this to any size though. Do whatever works for your space.

Once you have your boards cut and sanded, use your Kreg Jig to make 4 pocket holes in each of the 3 bottom 1"x10" boards. The top board won't need pocket holes.

I used a whitewash stain on my boards, but you could use any color that matches your decor. That's the best part about DIY.

On my boards, I first prepped with one coat of water based wood conditioner and let it for 10 minutes. Then I took a foam roller and applied a thin coat of water based whitewash stain. I waited 1-2 minutes then used a clean rag to wipe in the direction of the grain, which smoothed out the stain and created a uniform color. I repeated the whitewash process a second time and let it all dry overnight.

I knew that I wanted to add a quote or something in the color of my nightstand (Behr Distant Thunder) to tie the two together, but I wasn't sure what exactly I wanted to do. I used the back of my bottom board to practice a little and see what I liked.

We narrowed it down to the word "dream" or a little heart with "T+J" that was supposed to mimic the ones you sometimes see carved in trees. (Side note, how sad is it that I forgot how to write a cursive "m" in my practice word...I wrote "drean"... not my proudest moment, especially since Serial was the one to point it out)

After seeing how bad my hearts looked and how little artistic capability I really had, we decided to just go with the word...spelled correctly :-)

After I had everything painted and it had sufficient time to dry, I used Kreg pocket screws to attach the 1"x10" boards to each other. Then I used the finishing nails to attach the 1"x2" furring strips. I used one nail for each of the 1"x10" boards to make sure it was attached at all points. I also used Gorilla Wood Glue for extra hold.

I added a few pieces of these furniture pads, cut to size, to the bottom of the 1"x2" and along the back of them to protect my floor and wall.

The last step is simply to put the headboard behind you bed and enjoy your new look!

Important: the 1"x2" pieces won't hold the weight of the 1"x10" boards on their own. This plan assumes your bed will help hold this in place.

Have you built a headboard? I would love to see pictures of your project! Feel free to leave a link to your blog/plans in the comments section.

Happy Building!

~Jill

If you like what you read, I would love to hear from you in the comments section! It's fun to get feedback and it helps me create future posts. Oh and it wouldn't hurt my feelings if you pinned, tweeted and/or shared this post ;-)

Update! Life has become busy in a great way, so we don't have a lot of time for blogging these days. We've left the site up as a reference, and we do check our blog emails whenever we can, but we are no longer actively posting or commenting. Thanks for understanding and have a wonderful day!

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About US

I'm a Chicago girl who loves the outdoors and everything DIY. He's an Appalachian Trail thru-hiker and addicted to nature. Follow us as we share our experiences with home projects, recipes and hiking with our energetic Weimaraner, Rooney.