Based on the old times, THE one thing to watch out with Mission is the pivot ball screws that fix wheel hubs to the lower arms. They don't break very easily, but boy, did they like to bend, when you hit something And when they bend, they can screw up the handling big time. It's a good habit to just turn them half a turn out/in between the races to see that they are still straight.
Maybe this has been fixed in the re-release cars, but I don't think so. The diameter of the detail is so small, that unless you make it out of some unobtainium, it will either bend OR break in a crash and bending is definitely the better option of those 2 (although much harder to troubleshoot after the crash).
Have a pair or 2 in your pit box and check them often.

Based on the old times, THE one thing to watch out with Mission is the pivot ball screws that fix wheel hubs to the lower arms. They don't break very easily, but boy, did they like to bend, when you hit something And when they bend, they can screw up the handling big time. It's a good habit to just turn them half a turn out/in between the races to see that they are still straight.
Maybe this has been fixed in the re-release cars, but I don't think so. The diameter of the detail is so small, that unless you make it out of some unobtainium, it will either bend OR break in a crash and bending is definitely the better option of those 2 (although much harder to troubleshoot after the crash).
Have a pair or 2 in your pit box and check them often.

Yea, I remember the same issue with the Axxis. And that car was notorious for breaking front bumpers.Good advise to always keep a couple of arms in pit box.

P-dub was an awesome bumper when I had a Schumacher. I think it would be interesting to take a total skeptic, and hand him a car like the Mi1 without telling what car it was... "just drive it, let me know what you think". The Pepsi-challenge for TC's . The only thing besides the bumper that I would want to upgrade would maybe be the front CVD's, if I ran a spool in it? Overall they make some durable stuff.

Got 4 races (5min duration) to dial the car in with a boosted 10.5 motor, and the next week was a 30min endurance race. I am glad to say that the chassis is more than capable to handle 21.5/17.5/13.5 boosted setups. With 10.5 and quicker motors, the MI-1 in kit form can't quite put the power to the ground resulting in a little wheelspin punching out of corners.
Hi,

Can you tell tell me what can be done to eliminate this ? or what parts can be added ? i run a Hobbywing 9.5T and am looking to buy a new TC.

Got 4 races (5min duration) to dial the car in with a boosted 10.5 motor, and the next week was a 30min endurance race. I am glad to say that the chassis is more than capable to handle 21.5/17.5/13.5 boosted setups. With 10.5 and quicker motors, the MI-1 in kit form can't quite put the power to the ground resulting in a little wheelspin punching out of corners.
Hi,

Can you tell tell me what can be done to eliminate this ? or what parts can be added ? i run a Hobbywing 9.5T and am looking to buy a new TC.

Thanks 32819toon

Hey mate, probably the optional roll center kit to raise the roll center will help, but since the endurance race, I really haven't had much time to play around with it, and have been pouring more time and effort into getting the Mi4CX up and running for the State Titles the weekend past.

Got 4 races (5min duration) to dial the car in with a boosted 10.5 motor, and the next week was a 30min endurance race. I am glad to say that the chassis is more than capable to handle 21.5/17.5/13.5 boosted setups. With 10.5 and quicker motors, the MI-1 in kit form can't quite put the power to the ground resulting in a little wheelspin punching out of corners.
Hi,

Can you tell tell me what can be done to eliminate this ? or what parts can be added ? i run a Hobbywing 9.5T and am looking to buy a new TC.

Thanks 32819toon

perhaps the upgrade graphite chassis will will fix this problem.With the fiberglass chassis ,the car is way too flexible.

This is a sweet little chassis, simple to set-up for a TC beginner or occasional racer. Softening the rear helped a lot as did disconnecting the rear sway bar, although this might not work for everyone. I bought one for my first attempt at brushless TC racing.

I was a bit sceptical about the plastic drive shafts but haven't broken one yet. I've got a set of the metal cvds but no spool yet - they seem to be out-of-stock everywhere.

Spares appear to be a bit expensive so I just bought another kit - who can resist that price!

Got mine all set up the other day, and i have to say the short time ive had with it and im in love already. Seem to be having some trouble setting the gear mesh though, tried using a few different types of paper, but it still seems a little noisy, as well as makes a distinct clicking sound when it is just rolled on a table with no power to the system.