The Ultimate Culinary Tour of Burgundy

When Marjorie Taylor and Kendall Smith Franchini, an American mother-daughter duo, set up The Cook's Atelier in Burgundy, France back in 2008, they wanted to demystify French cuisine—specifically for foreign tourists. Taylor is a La Varenne-trained cook who left behind her French restaurant Ruby Beet in Phoenix to be closer to her daughter, who had been working for the Burgundy office of American wine merchant Kermit Lynch. The pair began by offering cooking classes and local market tours in English from their hometown of Beaune. That soon expanded into communal dinners, gatherings, workshops, as well as a brick-and-mortar shop (and an online one) offering everything from French kitchenware (branded Mauviel pots and gratins, beautiful wood cutting boards, original Laguiole knives in white cow bone, and more) to smartly sourced wine from small producers, and artisanal food products.

Recently, they've started a more ambitious project, a five-day immersive program called Seasonal Burgundy. In addition to cooking workshops, the ladies take guests on a tour of the region, offering an insider peek into the work and lives of local winemakers, farmers, and other culinary artisans.

Here, Taylor and Smith Franchini tell us some of their favorite spots on a tour of Burgundy.

La Dilettante restaurant in Beaune is known for its no-frills cooking.

Dining

La DilettanteThe ladies are regulars at this wine bar-cave à manger, where owner Laurent Breslin’s cooking is simple, clean, and unpretentious. “Laurent is militant about sourcing and it shows. He and his wife make the best green salad I’ve ever had. It’s dressed with sesame vinaigrette—it’s perfect,” says Smith Franchini.11 rue du Faubourg Bretonnière, 21200 Beaune

Le Comptoir des TontonsAt this much-loved restaurant and wine bar (one of the first to celebrate natural wines) the dishes are composed from what's fresh at the market and the owner's garden. “It’s not unusual to run into locals from the wine community here, throwing back drinks and having a good time. We always have a good time,” says Taylor.22 rue du Faubourg Madeleine, 21200 Beaune

Lodging

Hotel Le CepLocated within the walls of the old city, this family-run hotel is actually made up of two private mansions joined by 16th-century courtyards. Each of the 65 rooms is traditional in style, with antique furnishings, exposed wood beams, and printed fabrics. There's also a spa. Bonus: It’s conveniently located on the same street as two The Cook’s Atelier-approved restaurants, Bissoh (Japanese) and La Lune (Franco-Japanese).27 rue Mauxfoux, 21200 Beaune

Sights

Domaine Joseph Drouhin Winery“This is the perfect visit when you don’t know the region and its culture—it’ll give you all the background you need,” says Taylor about one of the few wineries in the center of Beaune to offer public tours, three times a day. Reservations required.7 rue d’Enfer, 21200 Beaune

Château de la RochepotThis intimate 12th-century château in the Côte d’Or area of Burgundy was previously a fortress in ruins before it was restored as a castle in the 15th-century style by the influential Carnot family. “It’s like opting for the small museum in Paris over the Louvre—it’s less intimidating but incredibly beautiful,” says Smith Franchini.La Rochepot, 21340, Côte-d'Or, Burgundy

Photo by Joann Pai

Château de la Rochepot is a small gem of a castle in the Cote d'Or area of Burgundy.

Beaune Market“When we travel, the first thing we ask ourselves is where the market is. But we have the best right at home,” says Taylor. Their favorite artisans includes Christian Knott, an Australian who draws a crowd for his specialty coffee stand and Madame Loichet, an octogenarian gardener who always saves the season’s first peonies for The Cook’s Atelier.Place de la Halle, 21200 Beaune

ChagnyThe ladies head to this nearby town often for its rustic farmer’s market, where their favorite baker operates out of a caravan parked at the back of a beer shop. There’s also Maison Lameloise, which they call the “neighborhood triple-Michelin-starred restaurant”, perfect for a Sunday feast.