Wedding banquets in Shanghai got a lot less lavish when Chef Nei moved to San Francisco and opened Jai Yun, where he serves 12- to 22-course market-fresh feasts. There’s no menu, since the chef creates his Shanghai-style fare based on what’s freshest that day – but fingers crossed, your menu will include tender abalone that drifts across the tongue like a San Francisco fog, housemade rice noodles with cured pancetta, and lacy, paper-thin pickled lotus root. Never mind that the restaurant has more mirrors than a Bruce Lee movie and creepy dining-room surveillance cameras – the sophisticated, fascinating flavors are in impeccable taste. Prices are based on party size: with 5-10 people the meal price starts at $65/person; for 3-4 the price starts at $80/person; and for two the price begins at $98/person. Pay more, and you can pile on even more courses. Wine selection is limited, so bring your own and pay corkage. Dessert is a token sweet, but you won't miss it after such a feast.