TheExpeditioner Travel Site » Southeast Asia Travelhttp://www.theexpeditioner.com
The Expeditioner is a travel site for the avid traveler, featuring travel articles, videos and news.Fri, 31 Jul 2015 14:35:23 +0000en-UShourly1http://wordpress.org/?v=4.2.3Video Travel Guide To Malaysiahttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-articles/video-travel-guide-to-Malaysia/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-articles/video-travel-guide-to-Malaysia/#commentsThu, 21 May 2015 00:30:44 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=24221In this travel video travel guide to Malaysia, I travel to Malaysia’s capital city, Kuala Lumpur, and to Terangganu, the country’s second-largest city. I start off my trip by exploring Kenyir Lake, located just west of Terangganu, which is actually the largest man-made lake in Southeast Asia (it’s the size of Singapore). I head to […]

In this travel video travel guide to Malaysia, I travel to Malaysia’s capital city, Kuala Lumpur, and to Terangganu, the country’s second-largest city.

I start off my trip by exploring Kenyir Lake, located just west of Terangganu, which is actually the largest man-made lake in Southeast Asia (it’s the size of Singapore). I head to the far end of the lake by speedboat to go trekking into the hilly jungle where I come across a school of hungry fish waiting for eager tourists like myself to provide them with a cheap snack. I then head back on the lake to explore the many islands that call this lake home.

Next, I head back onto the water — this time to the ocean — to do a little squid jigging as part of the first annual Terengganu International Squid Jigging Fest. Squid jigging, for those of you that don’t know, is the act of fishing for squid by hand with a line and hook, something I have questionable skill doing.

Back on dry land, I explore the market in Terangganu, one of the best places to find fresh seafood in the entire country, and try some of the region’s favorite desserts and iced coffee.

For the second half of the video, I head east to the capital city of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur, where I — what else? — find some street food in the famous Chow Kit neighborhood, followed by a little more food in Kampung Baru, a sleeping Malay enclave flanked by the city’s downtown tower.

I then take the monorail (!) to explore the Petronas Towers and the KL Tower, two of the city’s most famous landmarks, followed by dinner in Jalan Alor, the city’s famed outdoor street food district.

Finally, it’s time for a little rest and relaxation back on the west coast of Malaysia at the island of Redang, one of the country’s most beautiful tropical islands, where I get to experience what beach life is like in Malaysia.

Matt Stabile is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of TheExpeditioner.com. You can read his writings, watch his travel videos, purchase the book he co-edited or contact him via email at any time at TheExpeditioner.com.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-articles/video-travel-guide-to-Malaysia/feed/0Want To Learn How To Be A Real Traveler In Thailand?http://www.theexpeditioner.com/Want-To-Learn-How-To-Be-A-Real-Traveler-In-Thailand/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/Want-To-Learn-How-To-Be-A-Real-Traveler-In-Thailand/#commentsSat, 03 Jan 2015 23:11:08 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=23906You’re almost there. You’ve booked your ticket, bought your guidebook and packed everything in your bags to last you through the several weeks of vacation you’re planning to have in Thailand. Everybody in your social circle knows you’re heading to the exciting land of beautiful beaches, friendly people and delicious food. Sure, you’ve made your […]

You’re almost there. You’ve booked your ticket, bought your guidebook and packed everything in your bags to last you through the several weeks of vacation you’re planning to have in Thailand. Everybody in your social circle knows you’re heading to the exciting land of beautiful beaches, friendly people and delicious food.

Sure, you’ve made your list with things to do, see and eat, but are you positive your list will give you the real insights of the Thai culture and lifestyle? I’m not saying to ditch the list, but instead I’m suggesting you add the following five experiences to it to make sure you are not only being a tourist, but also a traveler.

1) Eat At Somebody’s Home

Either you plan it ahead and book a homemade dinner with a local host, or you make friends on the way, try your best to enter a local Thai family’s house and enjoy a meal with them. It might be a simple meal, but I guarantee it will be a memorable experience.

In fact, it has never been easier to meet locals and have an unforgettable experience. Sites such as Withlocals allow travelers to easily find a local Thai host who is willing to invite you to their home for a traditional home-cooked meal.

2) Take A Cooking Class

Want to take your Thai culinary experience to the next level? If so, then try taking a cooking class. Maybe you’re not much of a cook, but how awesome would it be to rock those spring rolls when you get back home?

A local host will not only teach you how to cook a Thai dish, but you’ll also be able to take those recipes with you and share them with your family and friends back home. Chances are you will also have the opportunity to travel to the morning market and pick up fresh ingredients for your cooking lesson.

3) Take Part In A Local Tradition

We’re all past that point when holidays are just non-stop cocktails on the beach, right? Get a little adventurous and try to find someone that will let you help them do something traditional such as planting or harvesting rice. You’ll find a new sense of appreciation for the rice in your plate next time you have it after spending a day harvesting the tiny grains.

Too much physical work for you? An alternative idea involves less effort and is definitely more delicious: learn how to make chocolate with your own hands. Does it get any sweeter than this? Whatever you choose, make sure you do or create something particular to the Thai culture. It might be a while until you’ll get there again.

4) Take A Ride On A Motorbike

If you’ve never been on a motorbike before, Thailand might not be the wisest choice to start practicing your driving skills. But, if you’re adventurous (and your health insurance is in place), rent a bike and hit the open roads like a local.

If you are a little weary of the prospect of going it alone, you can simply hire a local driver to take you around for the day. This way, you’ll experience all the thrill minus the stress.

5) Take An Off-The-Beaten-Path Tour

Whether it’s an alternative city tour with a local, a street food tour, a countryside visit, or a multi-day stay in a Buddhist temple, make sure you pencil in some time to discover Thailand from a different perspective than what your guide book says. Why not take a local Thai tour instead of following a regular tour guide?

*

There you go. Take a chance and include these five experiences during your vacation to Thailand and you’re guaranteed to have a blast.

Withlocals website is a marketplace connecting travelers from every corner of the world with locals in Asia offering unique travel experiences and home dining opportunities. Whether you want to offer yourself as a host or to sign up as a traveler and book your first experience, please sign up here.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/Want-To-Learn-How-To-Be-A-Real-Traveler-In-Thailand/feed/322 Bizarre Things You Didn’t Know About Thailandhttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/infographics/22-bizarre-things-you-didnt-know-about-thailand/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/infographics/22-bizarre-things-you-didnt-know-about-thailand/#commentsTue, 09 Dec 2014 02:12:37 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=23833Here are 22 bizarre things you didn’t know about Thailand, just in case you need a little more motivation to travel there yourself. Also, it’s infographic form, which let’s face it, is the best way to process information these days. By Matt Stabile / Matt Stabile is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of TheExpeditioner.com. You can […]

Here are 22 bizarre things you didn’t know about Thailand, just in case you need a little more motivation to travel there yourself. Also, it’s infographic form, which let’s face it, is the best way to process information these days.

Matt Stabile is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of TheExpeditioner.com. You can read his writings, watch his travel videos, purchase the book he co-edited or contact him via email at any time at TheExpeditioner.com.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/infographics/22-bizarre-things-you-didnt-know-about-thailand/feed/3A Cinematic Tour Of Cambodiahttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-videos/a-cinematic-tour-of-Cambodia/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-videos/a-cinematic-tour-of-Cambodia/#commentsTue, 14 Oct 2014 01:16:57 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=23728This cinematic stunner from Cambodia, “My Cambodia,” was made by filmmaker Ken Ng Jia Quan and shot with the Canon 5D Mark III using a 24-105mm lens. You can also check out another video of his that we featured last year featuring Myanmar. [My Cambodia by Kevin Ng Jia Quan/Flickr] By Matt Stabile / Matt […]

By Matt Stabile / Matt Stabile is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of TheExpeditioner.com. You can read his writings, watch his travel videos, purchase the book he co-edited or contact him via email at any time at TheExpeditioner.com.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-videos/a-cinematic-tour-of-Cambodia/feed/0I Of The Sun: A Journey Into Southeast Asia And The Heart Of Human Consciousnesshttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/2014/07/02/sun-journey-southeast-asia-heart-human-consciousness/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2014/07/02/sun-journey-southeast-asia-heart-human-consciousness/#commentsWed, 02 Jul 2014 17:25:53 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=23220The following is an excerpt from I of the Sun: A Journey into Southeast Asia and the Heart of Human Consciousness by Richard Arthur. The Cambodia/Vietnam border. The narrator is traveling with an Australian guy Vince who he met the day before. “Before me lay a huge red archway with five Khmer towers crowned above […]

The Cambodia/Vietnam border. The narrator is traveling with an Australian guy Vince who he met the day before. “Before me lay a huge red archway with five Khmer towers crowned above it with some faded yellow twirls of Cambodian script. Through the arch lay 200 meters of no-man’s land and then another white arch, glimmering in the distance like a mirage, a yellow star and one word in giant red letters – Vietnam.

Vietnam! A country I’d never imagined going to ‘until this day. A country known only to my young mind through the iconography of American pop culture – Adagio For Strings, choppers, gunshot, blood and tears. The beauty and the horror. It was October, the end of the rainy season. What was I doing here?

We crossed the border and changed bus. Instantly the pace was more frenetic. Endless streams of old mopeds buzzing around our bus like bats, brick houses by the road, lines and squiggles all over the letters of its Romanized language. More built up than Cambodia, though no Western brand names visible anywhere, just long terraces of shop houses by the side of the road, and occasional billboards for Asian companies. We barely saw any open countryside the whole way, just endless people, bikes and buildings.

We soon came to Ho Chi Minh City, formally known as Saigon. The city had a raw buzz, a feeling of unfinished business, case unclosed. The scarred beauty of tree-lined boulevards and tin-shack alleys, her arteries clogged with the burgeoning weight of humanity pumping through her soul. People everywhere, the streets electric! The energy grabbed me and squeezed my imagination like a vice. Thousands and thousands of 50cc rusty bikes and rickety old bicycles swarmed the streets, moving as one, each an individual atom in the large amorphous mass. When the lights went green they came at us like a swarm of bees.

Me and Vince found a cheap room in the heaving Pham Ngu Lao area of town where all the action seemed to be. That evening we went out for a few beers, taking in the buzz of the city, charged by the current of people out making money. It seemed like everyone was out to get you. Constant harassment from people following us down the road trying to sell us stuff we didn’t want; street-smart kids trying to charm and hustle money out of tourists, beggars and amputees lying in the gutter, and grinning motorcycle taxi drivers on street corners offering “Boom-boom? Marijuana?” under their breath.

Little women scuttling round in big pointy conical hats. Others selling their wares off motorbike side-cars, or carrying around two baskets of produce balanced on their shoulders with a heaving length of wood. Baguette ladies, noodle soup and sugar cane juice presses. Kids playing in the alleyways, the anxious mother, men unloading blocks of ice with metal hooks, pale white prostitutes driven round on mopeds, men cycling round with loud rattles, families eating by the road, the angry old grandmother, bandits in face masks, old hunchbacks, faces well worn from a thousand woes, the blind, the deaf, the mentally dispossessed, the missing limbs, the loss of kin, the chemical scars, twisted feet, human meat, lesser lives for the greater mass. A whole population living, working, eating and sleeping out on the streets.

And through the concrete madness of honking horns and beep-beep- beeps, the shuttlecock, the raggedy dog, the yellow-scarved soldiers in green, the docking ships of night and the smog of modernity; silently cruised the noble old cyclo drivers in shorts and rag shirts, bobbing on forever over their chariots – these three-wheeled rickshaws with a large passenger seat at the front, like a bicycle attached to a wheelchair – visions of serenity and melancholy calm. They were powered only by the old drivers, many of them homeless war veterans, out of sight, out of mind, destined to pedal ever onwards until the day their knees finally buckled and they died penniless in the gutter.

He catches up with two old friends from home who’ve flown out to join him on his travels into Vietnam, and they spend the next few days exploring the city.

“We carried on through the manic avenues and came to a long, wide road with bikes sifting round each other, fruit and spice stalls spread all over the road, paraplegics crawling through the dirt, no Westerners in sight, heads as far as the eye could see, a canopy of pointy hats. Thousands of people all on the go, movement, noise and heat overwhelming our enreefed little minds. It looked like a social uprising. A fear suddenly slashed through me like a switchblade. Where are they all going? What’s going on? Do they know something we don’t? Is there some kind of revolution going on? Jitters of panic in the echoes of history.

We continued onwards to a muddy little canal, traffic just inches from us till there were no pedestrians left, just relentless motorbikes blowing smoke and grime at us as we trudged along the side of a bypass road, often faster than the gridlocked motorcade. The heat, noise, smoke and exhaustion were starting to get too much to handle. We eventually climbed up and stopped on a pedestrian bridge over the muddy canal lined with slum shacks, exhausted by it all.

The faded colors of dusk and the dancing shadows eased the over-excited twinges of paranoia into a smooth appreciation of it all. It hit us then – the sheer beauty of the place. This was it! Vietnam! Asia! We’d found the picture of the East that we’d been looking for, here in Saigon. It had an insane, desperate clamor in the air, more than any other city I’d been to in Asia.

No tourists, no Western shops or restaurants, just millions of bicycles, dusty roads, old temples, handpainted signs, street markets, pointy hats and crushing poverty. This was the image of Asia I had in my head before I’d come here. That vague notion of the old Orient from the movies. Saigon was Asia as I’d imagined it would be. The heat, the energy, the 24-hour noise, history, violence, excitement, weed, rum and crazy dreams were all conspiring to drift us further from that which we knew. And we loved it. We let ourselves slide away into our imaginations, into a world of unlimited possibilities where fiction and dreams met reality, a world where we could do anything we wanted to. All we had to do was stop thinking about it, stop talking about it and just get out there and do it! The triumph of the will, Man as his own master.

We felt enlivened again. That night the four of us found a little bar with a pool table and a rack of cheap rum. We drank with gusto, liquor flowing through us fast into the gutter, little kids peering over the table moving the balls around playfully, Rolling Stones busting out the speakers. Joe had just fallen in love with a girl back home before he came out, and was missing her badly. Her name vaguely resembled Angie. When it came on, me and Charlie changed the words, ripping into him mercilessly. What are friends for? But still we continued, colored balls rattling round our minds, talk of fake passports and multiple identities, Joe raising toasts, Vince’s booming laugh, Charlie cracking gags, “Jumpin’ Jack Flash,” tequila, pot, smash!

We bowled out into the midnight tropics in twisted spirits and weaved through the crowded streets looking for some action. I stopped for a street vendor’s steamed dumpling and quickly lost the others, faffing around by myself in a drunken stupor. I sat down staring at the endless motorbikes, wondering what to do next. Then, out of the traffic appear two cyclos tearing down the road at high speed, Joe driving Charlie in one, and Vince steering the other. What the fuck? Joe and Vince have a look of positive insanity in their faces. Charlie looks terrified. No idea what they’re doing but I had no option. I burst out the shadows and jumped into the passenger seat of Vince’s cyclo, everyone cracking up at the seams!

We speed off, laughing neon maniacs of the night, trying not to stack the things as we zigzag across lanes, out of control through the traffic. I don’t know what’s going on, assuming they’ve nicked them. Seemed impossible to keep them in a straight line at this speed with the weight of the passenger attached to the handlebars. Next thing, we turn onto a larger road, and judging by the amount of cars and motorbikes, suddenly realize we’re on a highway. We’re dodging traffic, trying to keep the things in a straight line, hoping not to get mown down by the passing trucks, when the owners drive up alongside us on a moped screaming at us to get off the road. Somehow managing not to get hit, we turn off into a quiet side alley, but we ain’t done yet.

Me and Vince swap places, and I chase the others through the alleyways, amazed onlookers cheering on the crazy foreign bastards, ’till I see Joe’s crashed his cyclo into a parked moped up ahead. Getting closer. I look at the handlebars. “Shit! Where’s the brakes?” I scream. There are none. A sharp clattering screech of crashing metal. I smash into the back of the other cyclo, twisted spokes of bike everywhere, sending everything tumbling over. The moped driver’s standing in disbelief. The furious cyclo owners appear on their bike. Only then do the boys tell me they had just rented them for a short while. We left the situation with the vehicle owners and scattered into the bowels of the city like rats.

By Richard Arthur /

This excerpt was taken from I of the Sun by Richard Arthur, available in paperback and ebook from Amazon and other retailers. For more info, check out www.IOfTheSun.com.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2014/07/02/sun-journey-southeast-asia-heart-human-consciousness/feed/0Facing The Feces Factor: Tasting My First Cup Of Kopi Luwak Coffeehttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-eats/facing-the-feces-factor-tasting-my-first-cup-of-kopi-luwak-coffee/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-eats/facing-the-feces-factor-tasting-my-first-cup-of-kopi-luwak-coffee/#commentsThu, 27 Mar 2014 17:26:15 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=22561My first cup of Kopi Luwak coffee, sometimes better known as “cat poo coffee” or the rarest beverage in the world, was a memorable introduction into the highly envious world of extreme luxury, though this tasting occurred far outside the confines of the dining room of a fine-dining restaurant in Hong Kong or New York […]

My first cup of Kopi Luwak coffee, sometimes better known as “cat poo coffee” or the rarest beverage in the world, was a memorable introduction into the highly envious world of extreme luxury, though this tasting occurred far outside the confines of the dining room of a fine-dining restaurant in Hong Kong or New York where cups of Kopi Luwak can run upwards of $50 (or $600 if you wanted to purchase a pound of these coveted beans).

In my case I was sitting at a picnic table covered with a blue-checkered tablecloth near the outskirts of the Indonesian jungle with my husband, Kurt, who had also noticed a hyperactive mongoose pacing in a cage nearby. It seemed rather random, but we were in Southeast Asia where we didn’t understand the local pet protocol.

We were far more focused on sipping the many varieties of teas and coffees offered by one of the hosts of a family-owned coffee compound outside of Ubud, Bali. After having toured the grounds along with our kids, we had been invited to the tasting.

However, we soon learned that the mongoose was actually a closely related animal called a civet, and it was not just an anxious pet ready for a romp in the rainforest. At this particular compound, the family produced a highly prized coffee, Kopi Luwak, which is processed in the stomach of the civet. The coffee farmers feed the beans or “coffee cherries” to the civet, and then the enzymes and acids in the animal’s stomach essentially marinate and break down the bean, thereby eliminating bitterness and creating the most expensive coffee beans in the world.

The catch: the only way to get the processed beans is by waiting for the civet to release them into the wild. Yes, until they defecate. Once this has happened, someone gets to pick the beans from the dung and remove the outer layer of the bean, so it is finally ready to be roasted. Our host explained this to us and gave us a flyer to read.

Frankly, it sounded like something that Eddie made up. Like any five-year-old, most of his revelations and stories involved poop, farts, boogers or any other product that shot or drained out of an orifice. Kurt and I looked at each other, considering the reality of this coffee. Our host offered each of us a cup.

“How about some Fecal Folgers?,” “A tall cup of nonfat, no foam turds, please,” “Well, I prefer a grande carmel macchiato from Starbutts.” It was too easy to make jokes, but should we drink it? Our dilemma was whether to be culturally sensitive and embrace the offering or to come off as lame, mistrustful tourists.

Kurt shrugged his shoulders and then both of us picked up the cups. If ever there was a one-of-a-kind cultural experience, this was it. I swished the coffee around in the cup. It looked like regular coffee — no suspicious residue readily visible.

Time to down the dung. It was really quite smooth, almost creamy. Actually, it was delicious. The host smiled and nodded as if he knew what we were thinking. He then gave cups to the kids. I almost put my hand out to halt him, but then I stopped. Normally, I wouldn’t let the kids, who were five and three years old, drink anything with caffeine, but what the hell? Why not?

Kurt and I drank the stuff. Plus, we hadn’t brought the kids to Bali to drink rainbow sparkle smoothies with Mickey and Minnie. At worst, we’d have a night of family bonding and barfing.

Both Eddie and Kasey grinned at each other after they drank the beverage. Part of the thrill, I’m sure, was that they were consuming something they knew was for adults. We also avoided telling them about the feces factor. However, we did inform them that they were drinking a “special” coffee.

They also note that Kopi Luwak has seen a growth in popularity in recent years decades after almost disappearing as a beverage in Indonesia. Although historically Kopi Luwak has experienced various trendy times, especially with foreigners living in Indonesia. Dutch colonists consumed the Kopi from the 1600’s to the end of their rule at the beginning of World War II. Then, during the war, while Japanese soldiers occupied Indonesia, they developed a taste for the turdy beans.

And who can blame them? At the moment, I really couldn’t think of anything I’d rather do than hang out at Balinese family-owned coffee compound in the jungle and drink poop coffee with my own family and a hyper civet.

By Steph Glaser

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

A freelance writer, teacher and traveler, Steph Glaser studied in the Netherlands during college and then updated a chapter on the country for the now defunct budget travel guide series, The Berkeley Guides. Additionally, as an American exchange teacher in Australia, she became fluent in Aussie teenage slang courtesy of her high school students. Currently, Glaser lives with her family in Colorado where she teaches public speaking and writes about her travel blunders for her blog, TravelOops.com.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-eats/facing-the-feces-factor-tasting-my-first-cup-of-kopi-luwak-coffee/feed/1An Attempt To Express Thailand By Imagehttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-video/an-attempt-to-express-Thailand-by-image/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-video/an-attempt-to-express-Thailand-by-image/#commentsWed, 26 Feb 2014 03:38:26 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=22201“The bird has an honor that is missing from man. Its song is mournful, alas, man is trapped, but the bird is free according to natural law.” With quotations like that, you can bet you’re not in for the typical travel video. “Thailand: In the Garden of the Dragon” comes from New Zealand-based video maker […]

“The bird has an honor that is missing from man. Its song is mournful, alas, man is trapped, but the bird is free according to natural law.” With quotations like that, you can bet you’re not in for the typical travel video.

“Thailand: In the Garden of the Dragon” comes from New Zealand-based video maker Justin Heaney, who filmed this video in the summer of 2013 in and around Bangkok, Pai, Mae Hong Son and the Thailand/Myanmar border. According to the description of his video, Healey’s goal was to recreate “the visceral nature” of his time in Thailand.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-video/an-attempt-to-express-Thailand-by-image/feed/2Paper Lanterns Being Released Into The Sky In Thailandhttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-photography/paper-lanterns-being-released-into-the-sky-in-Thailand/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-photography/paper-lanterns-being-released-into-the-sky-in-Thailand/#commentsTue, 25 Feb 2014 02:29:25 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=22233Loi Krathong (or Loy Krathong/Loy Kratong) is a festival in Thailand that takes place on the full moon night of the twelfth lunar month, where thousands of little, candlelit floats are let go onto rivers and other waterways as offerings to the river spirits. In the northern part of Thailand, and especially Chiang Mai, the […]

Loi Krathong (or Loy Krathong/Loy Kratong) is a festival in Thailand that takes place on the full moon night of the twelfth lunar month, where thousands of little, candlelit floats are let go onto rivers and other waterways as offerings to the river spirits.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-photography/paper-lanterns-being-released-into-the-sky-in-Thailand/feed/0A Sunday Afternoon Stroll Through Hellhttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-article/a-sunday-afternoon-stroll-through-hell/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-article/a-sunday-afternoon-stroll-through-hell/#commentsTue, 25 Feb 2014 01:59:25 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=22203When your Thai landlord offers to take you to lunch on a Sunday afternoon, you don’t expect to end up in Hell. I had envisioned a casual afternoon of eating spicy papaya salad and having comical conversations through broken English and basic Thai with Khunjai. She is an older, rotund woman whose apartment I rented […]

When your Thai landlord offers to take you to lunch on a Sunday afternoon, you don’t expect to end up in Hell. I had envisioned a casual afternoon of eating spicy papaya salad and having comical conversations through broken English and basic Thai with Khunjai. She is an older, rotund woman whose apartment I rented and who could barely utter two words without closing her eyes, grabbing my arm for balance and succumbing to laughter.

After driving around for about an hour in the back of her pickup truck wedged between three of my roommates, I was relieved when we came to an abrupt stop and were told to get out. There were no restaurants or food stands anywhere in sight. But in Thailand, you learn to trust without question.

So we followed behind Khunjai into the unknown and were slightly disappointed to find it devoid of food. Instead, we entered the gates to Wang Saen Suk, which we would later learn is notorious for being the largest hell garden in Thailand.

It seemed like any other ordinary Buddhist temple. And it was, for the first few minutes or so. The concrete path that Khunjai proudly led us down was flanked with scenes of Buddha statues on their paths to enlightenment and eerie warning signs against straying from a righteous life.

Without segue or caveat, the visions of heaven were brusquely replaced by a ghastly introduction to hell. Two horrific, thirty-foot figures with bulging eyes and infinitely drooping tongues obstructed our path, marking our descent into Buddhist naraka — two souls forever searching and forever doomed to an insatiable hunger.

The macabre phantasmagoria that followed was a perfect synthesis of Dante’s Inferno and Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights. The garden is replete with statues tortured for the mistakes they’d made in life — each gruesome punishment in the underworld befitting of the sin committed on Earth.

No god or devil rules this forsaken place, just fantastic poetic justice.

Below the giant figures, sinners are burned in a cauldron of boiling water and are prodded by spear-bearing demons. The sign next to it reads, “Ones who make merit go to heaven; ones who do bad go to hell, plunging themselves into the hot copper pans and being stabbed by the hell-keeper with the spears everyday.”

Beyond the flagrant incineration at the entrance, sculptures of the sinners fill the garden in a frozen scene. With human bodies, animal heads and looks of misery and distress, the suffering statues leave you with unforgettably dark imagery.

A buxom pig with arms thrown up in surrender is towering over me when I learn, “Ones who make a corruption are punished in hell. They are the spirits of the pigs.”

A snake statue is depicted mid-hiss and stands atop a sign that reads, “Ones who pull the others’ legs are punished in the hell. They are named the spirits of the snakes.”

A cow’s outstretched arms seem to be reaching for you, pleading for you to know, “Ones who sell the habit-performing drugs are punished in the hell. They are named as the spirits of the cows.”

In virtually every direction you look while walking through Wang Saen Suk, there is another lost soul being tormented, another shocking reminder that judgment is real and unforgiving. You are constantly bombarded with supernatural scenes conveying one morbid message: Don’t mess up.

I didn’t expect to find myself here, in Hell, on this Sunday afternoon. And once inside, I didn’t expect to become entranced. But there was something so intriguing about this eerie place. Far away from the typical tourist attractions and nestled down a quiet street, it is a local treasure. And for those that can stomach the gore, it is a unique experience.

Khunjai told us that Thais often take their families here for outings on the weekends, and it is in this tradition that she took us here. Or perhaps, she was warning us against producing late rent.

Wang Saen Suk is not for the weak of stomach or faint of heart, but it is for the adventurous. It is also for those seeking an unusually authentic experience and some enlightenment about the dark side of Buddhism.

By Josalin Saffer

How to Get There

The hell garden is located in the village of Saen Suk in Chonburi province, about 90 kilometers southeast of Bangkok. Getting here can be tricky and may require a map, assistance from the locals, and some perseverance, but it is definitely accessible to tourists. The address is Sai 2, Soi 19, Saen Suk, for those brave enough to enter the gates to Hell.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Josalin Saffer is a freelance writer, blogger and photographer from Atlanta, GA. Her work has appeared in The Guardian, The Matador Network, and Shatter the Looking Glass Magazine. She travels and blogs regularly at www.jaiyenjocumentary.wordpress.com.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-article/a-sunday-afternoon-stroll-through-hell/feed/1And You Thought Myanmar Couldn’t Get Much Better Looking [Video]http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-videos/and-you-thought-Myanmar-couldnt-get-much-better-looking/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-videos/and-you-thought-Myanmar-couldnt-get-much-better-looking/#commentsWed, 20 Nov 2013 15:01:38 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=21436This stunner featuring Myanmar (Burma) comes to us from Singaporean student Kevin Ng Jia Quan, who trekked to the Southeast Asian country with his Canon 5D Mark III (and 24-105mm lens) in tow, along with his Glidecam HD2000 for all those pretty Steadicam-like shots. For more great travel videos like these, visit our Travel Video […]

This stunner featuring Myanmar (Burma) comes to us from Singaporean student Kevin Ng Jia Quan, who trekked to the Southeast Asian country with his Canon 5D Mark III (and 24-105mm lens) in tow, along with his Glidecam HD2000 for all those pretty Steadicam-like shots.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-videos/and-you-thought-Myanmar-couldnt-get-much-better-looking/feed/0The Spice Of Balinese Life: Notes From A Cooking Class In Ubud, Balihttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-articles-indonesia-bali/the-spice-balinese-life-notes-from-a-cooking-class-in-ubud-bali/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-articles-indonesia-bali/the-spice-balinese-life-notes-from-a-cooking-class-in-ubud-bali/#commentsSun, 29 Sep 2013 23:16:07 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=20770I am seated upon a bamboo mat on the ground, notebook in hand and appetite in tow. We have just returned to our lovely host home after an early-morning market excursion to purchase the necessities for our cooking lesson. Bundles of fresh tuna, ever-so-hideous jackfruit and ruby red tomatoes are just a few of the […]

I am seated upon a bamboo mat on the ground, notebook in hand and appetite in tow. We have just returned to our lovely host home after an early-morning market excursion to purchase the necessities for our cooking lesson. Bundles of fresh tuna, ever-so-hideous jackfruit and ruby red tomatoes are just a few of the recognizable purchases. Lucky for us, the majority of ingredients we will be using can be found fresh in the garden where we are staying, only footsteps away from my comfy cross-legged seat.

I wait quasi-patiently while the slab of wood (for cutting) is cleaned and the knives freshly sharpened. I try to ignore the swarm of ants that are also attending our outdoor cooking class, keeping in mind that the food is always washed a final time before ending up on the stove. I remind myself how lucky I am to be in the middle of rice terraces and jungle, attending a private cooking lesson from a local Balinese family. Finally, after a couple of stomach grumbles have already begun, it’s time to get cooking.

The lovely couple, Made and Rinin, are our top chefs for the afternoon, and I couldn’t have asked for a warmer, happier pair to instruct me in the ways of Balinese food. Our menu for the day will include lots of soups — chicken soup, jackfruit soup, and cucumber soup. Fried tuna, tempeh (soybean cake) and sardines steamed in banana leaves will also make an appearance for the main meal. Desert will be sticky rice, dowsed in brown sugar and generously sprinkled with grated coconut. But before we can begin any of the cooking, we have to prepare the one essential ingredient, Bali’s special spice: base gede.

This colorful and aromatic spice is the base for all of Made and Rinin’s recipes. A beautiful assortment of ginger, garlic, shallots, coriander, red and green chilies, lemongrass, brown sugar and galangal are assembled upon our cutting board. Made pauses before adding the final ingredient, turmeric, to make certain he can explain its value as an antiseptic and energizer. He also ensures turmeric will save me from any stray bugs that make their way into our open-air kitchen. Although I try, I don’t think my smile in mock agreement to this last statement is very convincing.

The ingredients for the spice are now ready to be finely chopped. And then chopped again. And again. Finally, my cutting job is approved and we can move the mosaic of spices to a mortar and pestle. I’m allowed to grind at it for a while, until it becomes apparent we will never be allowed to eat if I don’t hand the tool over to my instructors. In mere seconds Made has created a fine paste, and the central spice is finished and allocated to the different dishes we’ll be preparing.

We chop the head off a chicken (thankfully already dead) and drop it into a pot of boiling water with lemongrass and the base gede. Somehow, the massive jackfruit is chopped open and the edible, raw fruits removed so they can follow a similar route. Finally, bites of cucumber and tomatoes, with a handful of coconut, are boiled to create our cucumber soup.

While the soups are simmering, the tuna and tempeh are fried in homemade coconut oil until golden brown. We cover every possible millimeter of the sardines with our special spice before rolling them in banana leaves and sealing them with wooden skewers. I’m not particularly good at getting the skewer in without severing the entire banana leaf, but my kind instructors just laugh it off. The sardines are sent to steam in bamboo baskets adjacent to the rice over a traditional fire out back. I can’t believe that our hosts prefer to use a wood fire to the stove, but Rinin insists that she can tell a difference even if it does take much longer to prepare. Unfortunately I don’t think the caliber of my taste buds is quite up to her standard.

And then finally, after the aromas have teased us for what seems like ages, the boiling and steaming and frying are finished. We can eat.

Often Balinese will go off on their own during meals so they can thoroughly enjoy the textures and flavors, but our personal chefs have insisted on joining my friends and I for our meal. We sit upon comfy cushions, still on the floor, having relocated to an outdoor dining area. Thankfully, the labor is well worth the reward. Rice is employed to soak up our numerous soups before we shovel the deliciousness into our mouths.

Made contends that Balinese food tastes better when eaten with your hands, and I think I might actually agree as I forego the use of utensils. Despite the fact that the base gede went into everything we cooked, all the dishes taste unique, balancing spicy, salty and nutty flavors. I can’t get enough of the simple tempeh, although the sardines are a close second. And just when I am about to burst, I remember the sticky rice is still coming my way, a special addition to our meal from Rinin’s heart. It’s incredible, and the subtle sweetness is a welcome endnote to the spiciness of the meal.

I haven’t yet tried to recreate any of the dishes I learned to cook from the class. I’m not sure I’m even going to try, to be honest. What Made and Rinin offered me that day was enough for a lifetime. Through the noises and bartering at the morning market; the colorful array of exotic spices arranged on our wooden slab; the way they made me feel like family, joking at my slow cooking skills compared to their efficient and knowledgeable hands, Made and Rinin gave me a brief glimpse into true Balinese culture. They brought me straight into the day-to-day lives of traditional Ubudians, and for this, I will be forever grateful.

Casey Siemasko is an avid traveler, finding her inspiration when exploring new places and meeting new people. When she’s not teaching English or blogging, she enjoys practicing yoga, training for marathons and scuba diving. Oh, and wine. She and her husband comprise the two lovebirds documenting their travel musings at ACruisingCouple.com. Currently residing in Taiwan, they are gearing up for life on the road, starting in Southeast Asia this fall.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-articles-indonesia-bali/the-spice-balinese-life-notes-from-a-cooking-class-in-ubud-bali/feed/1Is It Possible To Actually Enjoy Bali? (Here’s How)http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-tips/is-it-possible-to-actually-enjoy-bali-heres-how/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-tips/is-it-possible-to-actually-enjoy-bali-heres-how/#commentsTue, 30 Jul 2013 22:08:08 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=20435Full disclosure: I’ve never been to Bali. It’s not that I haven’t been in the general vicinity, or have had the chance to go there over other destinations that are roughly the same distance from New York, but I’ve got to admit, it’s quickly become one of the few places in the world where my […]

Full disclosure: I’ve never been to Bali. It’s not that I haven’t been in the general vicinity, or have had the chance to go there over other destinations that are roughly the same distance from New York, but I’ve got to admit, it’s quickly become one of the few places in the world where my self-pronounced (though often vocally suppressed) travel snobbery has kicked in and made me want to avoid like the plague.

But to be fair, one common thread throughout all of these articles — other than the ever-presence of drunk Australians, blatant commercialization and a general desire to take a shower after visiting — was the fact that Bali itself should not be judged by Kuta (the main city in Bali where most travelers begin their trip). Reasonable enough, as it would be equally unfair to judge the entire Yucatan by Cancun, or Jamaica by Negril. The fact is, like anywhere you visit, it helps to know where to go, and perhaps even more importantly, to get as far away as possible from where all the tourists are.

Lonely Planet recently wrote about some suggestions of places to experience around Bali that won’t make you want to hop back on the plane minutes after you disembark. For example, Lovina, in the northern part of the island, is a great place where you can enjoy the black sand beaches and seafood warungs away from the crowded masses. Or you can head to the highlands of the island and visit Gunung Batur, Bali’s second highest volcano and home to two small villages, Kedisan and Toya Bungkah (look, no body shots happening here!).

And if you’ve really had enough of the island but need to stick around the vicinity due to time restrictions, hop a boat and visit the nearby Gili Islands, where cars are not allowed and numerous dive operators offer excursions to the many reefs and diving spots around the three islands.

So, yes, there are probably plenty of reasons to avoid Bali if you’re one of those travelers that tends to avoid tourist traps, but you do have options, just be prepared before you go.

Matt Stabile is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of TheExpeditioner.com. You can read his writings, watch his travel videos, purchase the book he co-edited or contact him via email at any time atTheExpeditioner.com. (@TheExpeditioner)

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-tips/is-it-possible-to-actually-enjoy-bali-heres-how/feed/46 Clubs To Rock To In East Asiahttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-article-asia/six-clubs-to-rock-to-in-east-asia/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-article-asia/six-clubs-to-rock-to-in-east-asia/#commentsMon, 08 Jul 2013 16:42:56 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=20231Okay, you can be honest with me. Spit it out. You did not come halfway across the world for this, how they call it, “Banana Pancake Trail”? I know exactly how you feel. I can tell how much you would like to throw a chair at that guy who’s mesmerizing a full table of other […]

Okay, you can be honest with me. Spit it out. You did not come halfway across the world for this, how they call it, “Banana Pancake Trail”? I know exactly how you feel. I can tell how much you would like to throw a chair at that guy who’s mesmerizing a full table of other exemplars of the backpacking species with his bragging rights, just over there. His tales of having seen this and that tourist attraction on the ultra-cheap contradict with the reality that his clothes would pay for two months’ worth of food for a local family.

You feel like you would be better suited outside, grasping for a change of air, like an amphibian in dire need of a habitat change. At least, back home you would know where to go bang your head, turn your anti-social behavior into loud drunkenness, and raise the horns to the Devil’s music.

But how can you do it in Asia-town? My friend, today is your lucky day because I’ve been there, and done that, and I am going to give you six places to find the rock underbelly in some of East Asia’s sprawling cities. If you thought they didn’t rock, well, you should get back into that hostel lounge, sit next to the bragging guy, and start clapping your hands.

1) Soundmaker, Penang, Malaysia

Literally hidden at the second floor of a tattered building along Pengkalan Weld, about half a mile down the road from the Jetty, this is the place to rock in Northern Malaysia. Check their show listings before you go because this place is not a bar, therefore, it is not open when you want. Rather, this is a real do-it-yourself underground venue,where heavy metal, punk, death metal and alternative rock spray the walls with sweat.

The showroom is decently sized and the sound system is quite good for an underground enterprise. The fact is that in Malaysia — a country who forced a ban on metal music in 2001, and whose Islamic party has given a hard time to Elton John because he is openly gay — you cannot really get much better than this. Soundmaker is the place to rock away your sleepy weekend afternoons and early nights, as no show can go on after 12 a.m. As a tip, buy some beer at the Chinese food court downstairs, as there is no bar inside.

Beijing had an amazing alternative rock and punk club called D-22 in the Wudakou student district where the Chinese bands of the ’90s made the history of Beijing punk. Unfortunately, it closed last year. D-22 an institution for Chinese underground rock, and has been the backdrop of many of my more interesting Chinese nights. Now, the megalopolis’s new focus of rocker attention is Yuyon Yishan.

As a reflection of the cosmopolitan and never-sleeping Beijing art scene, the club offers a mix of proposals coming from the realms of rock, electronic music and much more to keep your feet moving and your head banging. And in case your recent activities included Great Wall hiking, be warned, this may not be the best place to rest your aching legs.

With Bangkok’s reputation for vice and all sorts of other mischievous evils, it comes quite as a surprise that its music scene is so dead. Luckily enough, not too far from Khao San Road tourist enclave, you can find a pretty particular example of postmodern subculture in Pinklao: the Overstay.

This 6-story building functions as a rock/alternative venue, and a very cheap hotel with artsy character and an alleged ghost haunting the upper floors to spice things up. Come to enjoy live bands from all sides of the rock/alternative/electronic spectrum, and bring along your instrument for the occasional jam sessions. And if you’re hungry, you can try out the open kitchen to cook up some vegetarian food for your new friends.

In a place called the “fire house,” you may expect amplifiers to burst out sparks of white heat and set your eardrums on fire. If you know what a real punk house is, and I mean an independent space where DIY is the law, welcome to Rumah Api, one of the places in Kuala Lumpur that dares to object to the city’s rampant, over-constructed technologic wealth and high-class loving youth.

A stone’s throw away from the Ampang LRT station in the northeastern part of the city, Rumah Api is to Kuala Lumpur what CBGB was to New York during its heady punk days. Catch a dose of local and international punk, hardcore, crust, thrash and grindcore bands sweating — literally, as the only wall fan provided resembles a World War II airplane’s engine — on the nonexistent stage, and mingle with the most alternative youth in the capital. This place has plenty of character, but you gotta have some to enjoy it too. Otherwise, please keep on reading your book at the guesthouse or do not sway too far from Petaling street, I have warned you.

The self-described “longest running Rock ‘n Roll bar in Indochina,” Sharky’s Bar has been entertaining Phnom Penh for the past 17 years. Which, let me tell you, is a great accomplishment in terms of having given a space for rock music to a country that had seen many of its best musicians exterminated by the Khmer Rouge’s genocidal fury.

Situated not too far from the riverside at Road 130 in the Kahn Daun Penh district, Sharky is a cosy, American-style bar with pool tables and plenty of beers on tap. Come for the fun “beer pong” every second Tuesday, and expect to find local and international bands playing their brands of bluesy, rocking or rolling fury on stage.

Dali keeps transforming since I first visited, and Bad Monkey Bar is one of the better improvements to the city that I’ve seen. This club brews its own beers and sits in the main center of the Old Town, a perfect location to break your journeys to and from the mountain side and the lake. The setting of Dali itself is awe-inducing, and a night out here is a great way to top your stay with some doses of unhealthy international and Chinese rock, punk and more.

Marco Ferrarese has visited 50 countries and lived in Italy, the United States, China, Australia and Malaysia. He started vagabonding as a punk rock guitarist in Europe and North America, hitting the most famous and infamous stages across the two continents. In late 2007 he relocated to East Asia. He is currently a PhD candidate at Monash University, Kuala Lumpur, researching the anthropology of punk rock and heavy metal in Pacific Southeast Asia. He posts a weekly column at Rolf Pott’s Vagablogging and writes about hardcore Asian travel and extreme music in Asia at MonkeyRockWorld.com.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-article-asia/six-clubs-to-rock-to-in-east-asia/feed/2A Lesson In Laid-Back Travel On Cambodia’s Mekong Discovery Trailhttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-articles/A-Lesson-In-Laid-Back-Travel-On-Cambodias-Mekong-Discovery-Trail/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-articles/A-Lesson-In-Laid-Back-Travel-On-Cambodias-Mekong-Discovery-Trail/#commentsSun, 28 Apr 2013 22:00:33 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=19558I’m a great planner — an aspect of my personality so ingrained that it rarely faded during 10 months on the road. Even removed as I was from the rigours of Western life, away from the myriad rules and regulations that simply don’t apply in other parts of the world, the need to strategize remained […]

I’m a great planner — an aspect of my personality so ingrained that it rarely faded during 10 months on the road. Even removed as I was from the rigours of Western life, away from the myriad rules and regulations that simply don’t apply in other parts of the world, the need to strategize remained a strong force inside me. Most of the time that is.

There are good reasons to plan. You’re less likely to end up staying in terrible accommodations or eating food you can’t stomach; you’re less likely to miss out on star attractions; you’re far more likely to stick to your budget and be able to afford everything you need. But even I can recognize that there are times when it might just be worth throwing off the shackles of organization and striking out blindly. And I found that this was ever so much easier to do in a country full of smiling faces, hot sunshine, clear weather and with pocket-friendly living costs: Cambodia.

We’d arrived in the riverside town of Kratie after a seven-hour drive from Siem Reap — the latter few hours of which was spent in the back of a minivan with poor suspension, loose seats and a television in place of a rear-view mirror. Our only fellow Westerner — an American lad beside me — was laid back enough to wait for half an hour before demanding the driver stop watching his soap-opera and concentrate on the road. I say “road,” but it was a potholed dirt track that gradually worsened as we got closer to Kratie.

I’d booked (of course I had!) a room at the Balcony Guesthouse, one of a handful of smart little hostels overlooking the teal-coloured river and far bank of white sand. There’s not much to see and do in Kratie itself, but travelers are starting to come here thanks to community-based ecotourism project the Mekong Discovery Trail, established to help draw income to this little-visited corner of the country.

The headquarters for the Trail is at the tourist information center in town, and along I trotted, boyfriend in tow and a notebook tucked under my arm. It turned out I didn’t need it. The lady had very little to say, other than to give us a concise leaflet and to assure us that our overnight bicycle trip would all work out fine. She stood on the doorstep, shielding her eyes from the hot sun and pointed to a garage down the street.

“Bicycles,” she said, grinning broadly. “Three gears.”

“And where can we sleep?” I asked. I had read that local families offered home stays.

“Yes, yes,” smiling again. “Blue sign,” she explained, drawing a small square in the air with her index fingers. Well that was that then. We feasted that night on the terrace with samlor after stocking up on food for our journey. One thing I can’t bear is the idea of being without food.

We left early the following morning under cobalt blue skies and on ground already roasting underfoot. My bike began creaking less than a mile into the journey to Koh Pdau, a river island 20 miles north of Kratie. But it was hard to care. Through the sweat rolling down my face, the Mekong was the best I’d seen it in my travels through Laos and Cambodia. It was the bright blue of digitally-altered postcards — a miniature Caribbean Sea fringed with pure white beaches and dotted with little green islands. Hamlets were bursting with friendly children, eager to wave and call out hellos and goodbyes, often in the wrong order.

Some travelers visit the area to spot the endangered Irrawaddy dolphin, and we stopped for a little while at Kampi — one of the best viewing spots — before carrying on to the small town of Sambour in the 85-degree-Fahrenheit-plus heat. A few miles north, we found the Koh Pdau ferry port tucked into what seemed to be someone’s backyard just as the sun dipped towards the horizon.

The boatman dropped us and our bikes on the tip of the island and we scrambled up the steep slope into a sun-scorched rice paddy wilderness. It took almost an hour to find the hamlet of houses that might contain a bed for the night and then a few moments to realize that every single dwelling had a blue sign outside, displaying its address. Children ran around us, laughing and poking at our skin, pink from the sun.

We eventually found another type of blue sign labeled “Chap Sary Home Stay,” and after some cautious knocking followed by various people and a menagerie of small animals fussing around us, we were welcomed into the communal living space. The family spoke one word of English (hello) and we spoke two words of Khmer (hello and thank-you). We waited for dinner on the balcony as we watched the sunset. I worried nervously whether food was even on the agenda, and wondered how much money this would all cost. But dinner did, of course, arrive; a banquet of different dishes that we ate on the floor of the only room while the family nattered outside.

We awoke beneath our mosquito net in the low light of early morning to a cacophony of animal noises that started before dawn, dragging ourselves out of our corner for a breakfast of fish, rice and omelet. Settling the bill was interesting. Hand signals that I’d previously believed were understood worldwide had zero effect — generating nothing but blank stares — but in the end everyone seemed happy.

Cycling back to the ferry stop, we jumped aboard the wooden boat as it continued across the river. This side of the Mekong was even quieter — the roads and rickety wooden bridges barely suitable for anything bigger than a motorbike — and the adults just as keen as the kids to yell greetings at us.

After a long, sweltering cycle, our final ferry hop involved wheeling our bikes across a huge sand dune, waiting for an hour in the afternoon heat and sharing our brief voyage with some aquaphobic cows and a mischievous-looking boy laden with coconuts and a huge machete.

It was a couple of days as unforeseen as it was unforgettable. Maybe next time I open the laptop to research my next destination, I’ll hold back: I’ll hold out for something unplanned.

Holly Cave is a travel writer, science writer and part-time landlady based in the UK. When she’s not penning a sci-fi dystopia, pulling a pint, or walking her dog in the gorgeous English countryside, she’s writing about travel on her blog Travel Each Day. You’ll also find her on Twitter and Facebook.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/feature-articles/A-Lesson-In-Laid-Back-Travel-On-Cambodias-Mekong-Discovery-Trail/feed/1Bali: The Island You Thought You Knew [Travel Video]http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2013/02/20/bali-the-island-you-thought-you-knew-travel-video/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2013/02/20/bali-the-island-you-thought-you-knew-travel-video/#commentsWed, 20 Feb 2013 17:50:57 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=19053Forget the yoga retreats, luxury spas, poolside Jamu massages, and the recently-divorced-women-of-a-certain-age that have all unfortunately come to symbolize the Bali of today. Instead, think (and watch) lush jungles, religious ceremonies and majestic vistas that make this island truly The Island of the Gods. [The Island of the Gods (Bali)/Vimeo]

Forget the yoga retreats, luxury spas, poolside Jamu massages, and the recently-divorced-women-of-a-certain-age that have all unfortunately come to symbolize the Bali of today. Instead, think (and watch) lush jungles, religious ceremonies and majestic vistas that make this island truly The Island of the Gods.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2013/02/20/bali-the-island-you-thought-you-knew-travel-video/feed/1See The Colors Of Myanmar Shining Through [Travel Video]http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-video/see-the-colors-of-myanmar-shining-through-travel-video/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-video/see-the-colors-of-myanmar-shining-through-travel-video/#commentsThu, 17 Jan 2013 21:50:57 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=18788Marcin Kepka, from our Travel Videos group on Vimeo, recently shared this video from his 3-week trip to Myanmar (Burma), shot with his Canon 7D and GoPRO HD Hero, and brimming with enough colors and luscious shots of homemade food to make you start exploring tickets there to check it out yourself. [Myanmar by Marcin […]

Marcin Kepka, from our Travel Videos group on Vimeo, recently shared this video from his 3-week trip to Myanmar (Burma), shot with his Canon 7D and GoPRO HD Hero, and brimming with enough colors and luscious shots of homemade food to make you start exploring tickets there to check it out yourself.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/travel-video/see-the-colors-of-myanmar-shining-through-travel-video/feed/0Attempting To Understand What It Meant [Travel Video]http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/10/02/attempting-to-understand-what-it-meant-travel-video/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/10/02/attempting-to-understand-what-it-meant-travel-video/#commentsWed, 03 Oct 2012 01:11:38 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=17936Last November we posted a great video of Ha Long Bay made by a member of our Vimeo travel video group named simply “Asintrip TV.” The makers of the video followed up with me last week to let me know they wrapped up their trip from Southeast Asia and made a “best-of” video attempting to encapsulate […]

The makers of the video followed up with me last week to let me know they wrapped up their trip from Southeast Asia and made a “best-of” video attempting to encapsulate their adventure. As was the case with their last video, this one features some amazing shots and a poetic narrative. (And if you’re wondering about that haunting soundtrack, it’s composed by Hans Zimmer for Inception.)

Turns out Asiatrip TV is actually a group made up of Florian, Sarah, Romain, Jules, Paul, Louis, Sophie, Bruno, Paul, Thierry, Cécilia, Laure, Alice and Vicente, who were mostly living in Singapore over the stretch of five months, but were able to make sojourns to Singapore, Vietnam, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Philippines, Thailand and Malaysia while there. And as evidenced above, we’re lucky they did.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/10/02/attempting-to-understand-what-it-meant-travel-video/feed/1How To Cross The Street In Vietnamhttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/09/28/how-to-cross-the-street-in-vietnam/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/09/28/how-to-cross-the-street-in-vietnam/#commentsFri, 28 Sep 2012 17:25:19 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=17830It sounds like the beginning of a joke: How do you cross the street in Vietnam? (Possible punchlines: “You don’t,” “You start by taking out a life insurance policy,” or “You buy a motorbike.”) As any visitor who has been to Vietnam knows, the quickest way to spot the newbie traveler in town is to […]

It sounds like the beginning of a joke: How do you cross the street in Vietnam? (Possible punchlines: “You don’t,” “You start by taking out a life insurance policy,” or “You buy a motorbike.”) As any visitor who has been to Vietnam knows, the quickest way to spot the newbie traveler in town is to look for a timid and bewildered expression on a Westerner’s face as they attempt to cross the street.

Given the seemingly endless gridlock of motorbikes everywhere, the complete lack of stoplights (or adherence to their rules) and the cultural assumption that crossing the street by foot is not something to done in any logical (or safe) manner, crossing the street in Vietnam can initially seem like an impossible task.

The NY Times recently wrote about the average tourists’ plight with the task of crossing the busy streets, and how hotels are resorting to handing out tip sheets entitled “How to cross roads” to help visitors make their way through the city. The reason for this recent problem? The answer, in short, is rapid development.

A decade or so of capitalist fervor has transformed Hanoi’s once-quiet, tree-lined boulevards and side streets into roaring rivers of rubber and steel. Tourists, when they are not cowering in their hotel rooms, can be spotted standing by the side of the road wearing expressions that range from startled to stupefied . . .

“Life was easy and calm,” Mr. Thinh said. “Now everyone is stressed; people want to make money.” He attributes the traffic conditions in Hanoi to migrants from the countryside, who ride through the packed, narrow streets according to the traffic rules of their home villages, which is to say none at all.

My own experience leads me to offer the following advise as to the best way to cross the street in Vietnam.

1) Forget about looking for a break in traffic, chances are you’re not going to find one. Accept this fact and move on.

2) Look in the direction of the source of traffic and enter the street.

3) Keep you head up and eyes toward the coming traffic as you make your way forward.

4) Despite your overconfident spacial reasoning and logic skills, don’t bother trying to walk in a manner timed to avoid collision. Simply walk straight at a slow and measured pace. Do not stop, slow or increase your speed. The reality is, the other drivers don’t want to hit you, and they will simply slow down and move accordingly around you. Erratic direction or speed changes will increase the likelihood of disaster.

5) Finally, be confident. Though you may seem like the underdog in this cat and mouse scenario, the truth is drivers are dealing with pedestrians all day long and are used to slowing down and slightly changing their direction to accommodate them. Timidity will simply throw off their timing and may land you in a Vietnamese hospital room.

To help things out a bit, try to placate your fears with plenty of street food around town and remember, the best part of the experience is how natural you will look to newly arrived visitors after you’ve spent a few days practicing.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/09/28/how-to-cross-the-street-in-vietnam/feed/1The Easiest Way To Get A Myanmar Visahttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/09/19/how-to-get-a-myanmar-visa-the-easy-way/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/09/19/how-to-get-a-myanmar-visa-the-easy-way/#commentsThu, 20 Sep 2012 01:18:28 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=17688With considerable political reforms occurring over the last year, Myanmar (Burma), once a pariah state in the world of travel, has become this year’s hottest backpacker destination. Although some significant human rights issues remain, travelers are keen to experience the legendary, relatively “untouched” culture of this unique Southeast Asian country, hot on the heels of several Western […]

With considerable political reforms occurring over the last year, Myanmar (Burma), once a pariah state in the world of travel, has become this year’s hottest backpacker destination. Although some significant human rights issues remain, travelers are keen to experience the legendary, relatively “untouched” culture of this unique Southeast Asian country, hot on the heels of several Western world leaders who have recently made the trip.

However, there are several challenges that must be faced before one can pack up and head into the unknown. The first is obtaining a visa, which remains a tiring and time-consuming process, with one exception: the Myanmar Embassy in Bangkok, Thailand. In Bangkok it is possible to get a visa in a matter of days, without the unexplained delays and the need for invitations, itineraries, business contacts, etc . . . , that travellers have reported facing at other embassies.

Although heading to Bangkok may seem a little extreme just to get a visa , keep in mind that since overland travel into the country is still not a viable option, Bangkok is without a doubt the cheapest entry point to Myanmar, with flights to the former capital, Yangon, from as little as $80.

The Embassy in Bangkok is located at 132 Sathorn Nua Rd, Silom. Applications are only accepted in the morning, from 9 a.m. until 12 p.m., Monday to Friday. Of course, the Embassy is closed on both Thailand’s and Myanmar’s public holidays.

By far the easiest option for getting to the Embassy is the BTS Skytrain. The Embassy is located just 200-300 meters from Surasak Station. At Surasak Station, take EXIT 3, turn right at the bottom of the stairs and follow the direction of the traffic down the Sathorn Nua Rd. You will walk past several large schools, and then come to the Embassy’s prison-like walls on your left. While it may be tempting to skip the BTS and take a taxi from your hotel, Bangkok’s notoriously bad traffic makes this a far less desirable option than it initially may seem.

If you are coming from the Khaosan Road area (Banglamphu), there is unfortunately no nearby BTS station. Perhaps the nicest way to get there is via the river from Phra Arthit Pier (N13). From here take the “orange flag” Express Boat to Sathorn Pier (Central Pier). Tickets cost a mere 15B, and the ride takes a pleasant half hour or so. From Sathorn Pier you can transfer to the BTS at Saphan Taksin Station, just one stop from Surasak .

Once you arrive at the Embassy, you will need:

2 passport photos

Visa application form (available at the Embassy)

A photocopy of the photo page of your passport

For the express 1-day visa service you will also need your flight tickets/itinerary

A good book (waiting times can be long!)

Fortunately, for the disorganized traveler, an enterprising Thai couple has established a business just a few minutes walk past the entrance to the Embassy, providing passport photos, photocopies, paperclips and glue, all at a bargain price!

There are three price options available for visas: to pick up the same day costs 1260B, the next working day 1035B, and in two working days it costs 810B. These prices are standard regardless of your nationality. Passports can only be picked up between 3:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. on your selected day.

Once you have picked up your visa, the first of your challenges is over. Now you just need to find enough clean, crisp U.S. dollar bills to fund your entire trip, as there are still not many reliable ATMs in the entire country . . .

(Please note, this information is all accurate as of August 2012. The process, times and prices may change at any point!)

Evan Ritli is a frequent traveller and occasional writer from Melbourne, Australia. Usually writing on politics and International Relations, Evan was formerly an editor for the Australian Institute of International Affair’s webzine, Monthly Access. More recently he has been working as a policy manager for Left Right Think Tank. He can be contacted at evanritli@gmail.com.

]]>http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/09/19/how-to-get-a-myanmar-visa-the-easy-way/feed/2Bad News Sweden: Phuket Is Fullhttp://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/09/11/bad-news-sweden-phuket-is-full/
http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2012/09/11/bad-news-sweden-phuket-is-full/#commentsTue, 11 Sep 2012 21:37:30 +0000http://www.theexpeditioner.com/?p=17647Bad news Sweden: Phuket is full. Well, not full exactly, but the Thai island (and its smaller nearby cousins, known for their white sand beaches and DEET-laced alcoholic cocktails) is on path for another record-setting year, with an estimated 4.7 million visitors expected to visit the island in 2012, up from 4.2 million in 2011. Quite […]

Bad news Sweden: Phuket is full. Well, not full exactly, but the Thai island (and its smaller nearby cousins, known for their white sand beaches and DEET-laced alcoholic cocktails) is on path for another record-setting year, with an estimated 4.7 million visitors expected to visit the island in 2012, up from 4.2 million in 2011.

Quite a turnaround for a region devastated by a tsunami just eight years ago. The problem is the island may already be at its breaking point. As the SMH reports, the airport alone is undergoing an expansion to fit all those northern Europeans on holiday, but is already expected to reach capacity just two years after its scheduled opening in 2015. Hotel consultant Bill Barnett points out that Phuket’s hotel capacity rate already averages 75% right now, and may be stretched beyond capacity by the double-digit growth in visitors despite the more than 5,000 new rooms scheduled to open in the next few years.

So what is a full-moon partying, gap-year Australian to do? As always, try exploring your options in outlying regions (Krabi, the Andaman islands, Malaysia) and plan way in advance for the best flights, as chances are that as flight options dwindle, prices will skyrocket. And whatever you do, never, ever accept a map by a guy named Daffy Duck in a dodgy Bangkok hostel. The results could be perilous.