The Co-op is fast becoming my go-to supermarket for good, inexpensive Champagne . There are, of course, other wines that fizz, but Cham...

Saturday, 16 October 2010

Lake Velence Grüner Veltliner, 2008 - Laithwaites

Grüner Veltliner is actually Austria's signature grape, accounting for over a third of all vineyards there, but is also grown to a lesser extent elsewhere in central Europe, including Czech and Hungary.

When made dry and full-bodied (the Austrian "house style" these days), it typically produces wines that are crisp, aromatic and well-structured with white pepper on the nose, and lentils or celery on the palate.

The best examples are racy, elegant and complex - and also increasingly expensive as Austrian wines generally gain a deserved reputation for themselves.

This Hungarian take on Grüner Veltliner from Laithwaites is from the Etyek Buda region just outside Budapest. Mid-weight, with good structure and acidity, very much in the Austrian style, it is refreshing enough to serve as an aperitif, but also has the weight to stand up to food.

With its high acidity levels, it cuts through roast pork beautifully and also matches well with oily fish like salmon. It is well made, well structured and benefits from an hour or more in the decanter.

At £6.49 plus delivery, it is also competitively priced for its quality and has the added advantage of being one of the more unusual wines you might serve your guests.