I bought my 2006 Rubicon Unlimited with 80k and found out later that it had an engine replacement done at 60K by PO. I don't have any info on what was done or why. Do you think this part would have gotten replaced with the engine swap? I think it was a long block from Jasper. Hate to pull it just to check it.

On those last pics from 2006 sport, is that considered that bad? I'm no mechanic but for 85K miles, I'd expect a little wear. That doesn't look that bad to me. Hell I'll be super happy to get 85K on the original part.

On those last pics from 2006 sport, is that considered that bad? I'm no mechanic but for 85K miles, I'd expect a little wear. That doesn't look that bad to me. Hell I'll be super happy to get 85K on the original part.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkp

There should be a smooth shiny spot on the gear in the center. That one is too long and it is rough.

My '92's distributor gear didn't have that much wear at 200K plus.

I replaced my '06's at 115K when the cam sensor went. It had some wear, but not as bad as the pic above.

Yep, Way too much wear for only 85k. As soon as I threw the P0016 code I ordered that part because I knew that the gear was probably worn down to the point where if I didnt replace soon it was gonna do more harm than good.

I dunno how much better the Dorman part is, but anything will be better than what I have right now. And i might send my old one to the guy in here (can't remember name) to do the mod for it as a backup.

So I got the Dorman unit today. Lined up the holes before I installed but I forgot about the TDC deal and installed it. So I kept it in there and aligned engine to TDC. Can I take the OPDA back out and align the holes again? Because the bottom hole is on the left and the top hole is direct opposite on the right.

Okay so everything is installed. No CEL on warm up but when I go to gas it, like revving it, it hesitates and acts like it's going to or it has cut off. Assuming that's my timing.

You are just enough out of cam / crank sync that the computer puts it into limp mode. Limp mode will do just that (cuts at 3k rpm). The exact thing happened to me when I installed my Dorman. I took it to my buddy who has a Snapon scan tool that can read cam to crank difference. We adjusted it until the difference was zero. Fixed my problem. The Jeep FSM talks about this procedure. The dealer uses the DRB factory tool to do this for them.