Knuckle Sandwich, a new arrival on East Burnside Street puts little stock in appearances. The decor is not vintage, or salvaged, or in any way stylish, the music is not especially hip, and the menu makes no attempt to attract novelty-chasing tourists. Here, owner Richard Vasquez lets his enormous, extravagant sandwiches speak for themselves, which they do loudly.

The Burnside at Knuckle SandwichBen Waterhouse, Special to the Oregonian

The chow: It's big. The Eastsider hoagie ($9) crams five Italian meats in a Pearl Bakery roll with provolone, peppers and pickles, and it's the most restrained item on the menu. The brisket sandwich ($8.50) supports so much house-smoked beef on its spicy barbecue sauce-slathered bun that it requires a substantial skewer to hold the thing together. The Lil Ray's Breakfast ($5.50) is a standard ham-and-egg number doused in a cup of sausage gravy. And if you're really adventurous, there's the Burnside ($8.50), a sort of portly cheesesteak of roast beef, jalapeños and roasted red peppers dressed with an unhealthy squirt of Cheez Whiz and fried onions. Finish it, I dare you.

Real deals: You don't really need a side of excellent fries with your breakfast sandwich, but at $1.50 for a generous portion, you might as well go for it.