Bufalina

Steven Dilley owns the best Neapolitan pizza restaurant in the city — two of them, actually — and that’s not even what really gets him juiced. The University of Texas graduate was named one of Food & Wine’s sommeliers of the year, and his massive, well-curated and approachable wine list is one of the most impressive in town, with heavy emphasis on France. But even the wine nerds will tell you the pizza is at least as big a draw here, with charred and supple pies like an aggressive anchovy, garlic and red chili and the nostalgia-igniting pepperoni, layered with milky mozzarella and red onion. The scallion ranch dressing comes on the pie to keep you from the embarrassment of asking for a side for dipping. While they usually only offer one handmade pasta, maybe a corn-flecked gnocchi or pappardelle with funky ’nduja, it’s always worth getting.