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Wine Bar Rules

By

Lettie Teague

Jan. 24, 2013 10:06 p.m. ET

When Stefan Mailvaganam and his partners sought to open Custom American Wine Bar in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, a few years ago, they were met with resistance from the local community board. When Mr. Mailvaganam opened Vanguard Wine Bar a few weeks ago on Second Avenue and 29th Street in Manhattan, the reception was decidedly warmer. "We've been waiting for you," a woman at the bar told Antonio Perez, Vanguard's jovial bartender on the night of my visit. "You're changing the neighborhood," she said.