Dior Homme

Creative Director Kris Van Assche continues to find his own identity for Dior Homme, especially challenging after former designer Hedi Slimane single-handedly created an entirely new silhouette for menswear, with an ultra-skinny, punk-edged aesthetic. For F/W 10, the fit was anything but lean, with billowing long coats and a collection that was all about “quality and comfort.” A slightly Goth mood was expressed with a dusky black and charcoal palette, enriched with occasional appearances of deep aubergine. Contrasting the long outerwear silhouettes, Van Assche cropped his slim pants and gave tailored jackets narrow lapels. Interesting draped effects on many of the clothes emphasized the idea of comfort and cocooning. But even with so many loose-fitting shapes and soft fabrics, the label that defined gaunt glamour in the 2000s still feels directional in its own way.