>
> I currently have a 5-speed, but could swap it out for a heavier transmission. (I like the granny low, but without overdrive, mileage is atrocious.) Any suggestions? Is this possible with the 2.3L, or should I scrap the Ranger and go with a heavier truck? Do I need 4WD, or would a Posi or locker get the job done?
>
> TIA,
>
> Tim Clevenger
> '90 Nissan 240SX SE
> '86 Ford Ranger
> '86 Honda Helix
>

If you have the money, I say go buy yourself a new (or used) V6 Ranger
4x4. If you do the rebuild with performance parts and get your compression
down to 8:1, you might find it better to go with a turbo. I have yet to
see a S/C for the 2.3L other than the turbopac electric S/C which is only
good up to 4.5 lbs of boost. Now you could go with a turbo/esc setup and
be unique.

I just finished my radial arm bushing repair. All went fine except the Local
Ford dealership really messed up on the bushings they sold me. If your
counter part man is going by the computer picture, the parts he sells you
will be wrong unless he knows that each bushing (front & back) is different.
The exploded view shows the same part number for each side. But, they are
different. The large bushings (front) come two to a box with two rear spacer
bushings. The rear bushings are sold separately. Unless you have a
knowledgeable counterman you will get the wrong parts. Go figure. I worked
over the holiday so I had to wait until they opened today to express my
anger! It took a mechanic who was sympathetic to my plight to assure me that
this kind of mistake happens a lot to them. He showed the parts man what the
right parts were. No wonder there are so many neighboring city "new sell"
Ford
dealer plates in this town instead of local dealer.

I've invented a way to fill and bleed an Aerostar's cooling system. I
understand that the dealer uses a "special Rotunda tool" for this; an
integrated radiator cap/funnel. This is required because the heater
core is above the rest of the cooling system, and Ford is too cheap to
put a bleed valve on anything. Now, I haven't tried this yet, but
here's the gist of it.

1. Fill the cooling system.
Wait (glub, glub, glub).
2. Top up the radiator
Wait (glub, glub, glub).
3. Run the motor until the thermostat opens (gauge rises and drops).
4. Using a thick rag, open the radiator cap to the first stop. Watch
out for escaping steam. When the steam pressure equalizes, remove the
cap completely. Top up the radiator again (glub).

Now, here's the good part:

5. Run the car around the neigoborhood and get that coolant moving.
6. Park the car on a steep incline with nose upward.
7. Let it cool.
Glub, glub, glub!
8. Remove the radiator cap.
9. Top up the radiator again.
Done.

In the final glubbing, you hear the sound of air being replaced by water
in the heater core.

Well, I did it.
Blew the head gaskets of my '92 Aerostar's 3.0 v6. At least the
symptoms sure check out. I have to have a mechanic do the job.

What do I need to know in terms of having this job done properly?
Also, should the head bolts be re-torqued awhile after the job is done?
What about "break in" instructions?

I live in an area that requires driving on steep hills. I'm near San
Francisco, but the hills aren't quite that steep (for those of you who
haven't figured this out, in movies and TV, the SF hills are intensified
by the simple use of telephoto lenses).

>From (David Steelman) and he asked;
>Is there any point in buying
>the Borla exhaust for my truck without having any headers available to
>upgrade at the same time?

David, I have used on two different vehicles Borla exhausts. They
worked great and best of all never again needed replacement, even after 100
thousand miles. At one point, one of them developed a problem, they replace
it under their guarantee. I had to do the installation this time myself,
but unbolting the stainless was easy even after 20K. I think it is a great
product. I did a one with a full header and one cat back. The cat back
worked fine, and I felt no need to do the headers.

>Also, I want to improve the performance of my 3.0, but I do not want to
>make it loud.
The Borla was a *little bit louder, it sounded great.

My tachometer has recently started to move very choppy. I gave it a
couple weeks and it hasn't gotten any better. When increasing engine speed,
it seems to lag behind (in response) and then catch up quickly. When
decreasing engine speed, it also seems to lag behind and then catch up, but
the motion is more choppy. It seems to move in 500 RPM increments, as
though it is getting caught on each hash mark and then breaking free.
Anybody have this problem? Anybody know the cause and/or a fix?

Bob, I have an '86 4WD that I had a terrible time with. Due to a computer
malfunction when I had only 60K the FI quit delivering fuel to three
cylinders and burned up the engine. After a complete rebuild and a new EEC
it still ran like crap most of the time. Determined not to give up on my own
mechanical skills I started where you did with O2 sensors and worked my way
up. I did buy a code reader which is helpful but won't reveal the simple
things.
If you take it to a shop the first thing they will do is change the plugs
since that is usually what goes wrong first. Do it yourself and save $50.
Check your plug wires thoroughly. If they are older than 5 years replace
with good custom wires--don't be cheap (same for cap and rotor). Next get a
can of carb spray and spray on your vacuum connections and try to detect any
change in engine speed. The most critical lines run to the vacuum switches
on the passenger side fender behind the battery. I found my broken lines
inside the "protective" plastic conduit with other wires inside. These
basically fixed my problem after I replaced chinsy plastic tubes with copper
line and short rubber hose connectors at each end. It really gets hot under
there and makes the plastic brittle.
Other items that can cause your problem are a clogged EGR valve or
associated component, throttle position sensor or idle valve. All these will
show up on the codes.
By the way, my Ranger is a screamer now and getting ready for new paint and
upholstery!
Alan Heaberlin
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.buffalorun.com
Buffalo Run Enterprises

"Law is a matter of statistical probability and truth is finally
a matter of whichever of the many geometries best suit your needs."
George Elliot

>Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 09:36:24 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Bob Johnson
>Subject: FTE Small - '86 Ranger 29.l efi - still running rich
>
>Thanks to all who sent advice regarding my '86 Ranger. Symptoms: high and
>low speed miss, black smoke out exhaust, will sometimes stall when coming
to
>a stop. I checked the O2 sensor, and found all 3 wires damaged, so I
>replaced it - but no improvement in drivability. Have run several tanks
with
>injector cleaner - no effect. Mileage is relatively poor - about 15 mostly
>highway mpg. Seat of the pants says it's getting worse.
>
>Feels a lot like one of my motorcycles in the rain, when I could see the
>spark leaking from a wet spark plug boot - misses, then runs ok, then
misses
>some more. I don't think this is moisture related - no rain here in north
>Texas in a long time - hot and dry. I did clean the engine a few weeks ago,
>however - degreaser and water. Should I look for moisture in the
>distributor? Replace the ignition wires? Plugs? Will take it in to the shop
>on Wednesday for diagnosis if no one has a better idea re: what to check
>and/or replace next.
>
>Any advice will be appreciated. TIA.
>
>Bob
>'86 Ranger SC XLT 2.9l efi
>'80 F-250 Custom 300 I-6, 3 speed
>

> I've been researching the same thing. here's what I've found. Westin Stepbars
> should be available by now, I was told by end of May, beginning of June. they're
> body mounts. Smittybilt should be available by the end of August. in the past,
> smittybilt has been body mounted, but I'm not sure how it will be for 1998. I
> know there are other brands, but I don't have much info on them. hope that helps.

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