WORLD FARE: You know it when you see it at Aqui es Texcoco

In his concurring opinion in Jacobellis v. Ohio, 378 U.S. 184 (1964)—one of the most famous in Supreme Court history—Justice Potter Stewart said of hardcore pornography: “I know it when I see it.” He might as well have been talking about “authenticity” and Mexican food. My most recent trip to Aqui es Texcoco (1043 Broadway) in Chula Vista taught me that.