Welcome to the Piano World Piano ForumsOver 2 million posts about pianos, digital pianos, and all types of keyboard instruments
Join the World's Largest Community of Piano Lovers
(it's free)
It's Fun to Play the Piano ... Please Pass It On!

They are very easy to use, but the final colour is slightly translucide.

Do some tried to mix with some white powder (as titanium white) ?

The mix is so strong and hard once set (very fast) I suppose it can accept a little neutral power and/or a trace of yellow acrylic colour.

The smell is awful !

If you are getting the stuff from a source that sells to "beauty shops" you are probably getting the translucent stuff intended to emulate human fingernails. Go back and ask them for the opaque variety.

In the U.S., at least, both types are available. As are powders of slightly different colors.

I was just thinking that very thing--- that is, "Ask a dentist." They use all kinds of interesting and durable materials, which would certainly stand up as keytops, if they can stand up to living in a mouth. And, they do pretty close color-matching.

Some guys might not want to be seen going into a beauty parlor, anyway. But a dentist's office is ok.

I was just thinking that very thing--- that is, "Ask a dentist." They use all kinds of interesting and durable materials, which would certainly stand up as keytops, if they can stand up to living in a mouth. And, they do pretty close color-matching.

Some guys might not want to be seen going into a beauty parlor, anyway. But a dentist's office is ok.

The key on the right, had the right corner chipped. The key on the left had a typical half moon chip in the middle.

I am very happy with the result.

I did experiment on quite a few spares. Seems to me that the recipe in the literature provided does not ask for enough powder.

I used the pure white at first, given the excellent state of the ivories, and ended up with a darker shade. The reason was that is was still translucent. By adding more powder, the acrylic becomes more opaque, but dries a lot faster. It turns into a paste as you apply it, which, now that I have worked with it. is actually nice. You can even reapply more and it sticks.

So, all in all, I will be visiting my local fingernail specialist soon.

Nice job Jean. I will have to order some of that product and try it out. The video is good for showing the repair. The only thing missed was turning the key over to see the underside of the repair, the overhang of the ivory.

Jean, we certainly use similar products. I made pics but it does not show the process.

I could make a video for the last ivory I have to do. The backing tope of double face tape can help to mold. I did not shape the paste much, only file later, (it is shaped a little while pouring it, with the brush) you gain time with the spatula Iwas afraid that the product did not hold well.

I wanted to see how they do in the nail trade , so to be sure to understand how they mix the powder, quantities. Taking the powder directly in a cup, with the brush dipped in the liquid (in a small glass jar) is efficient to regulate the amount of liquid.If the brush is dipped too frankly, too much powder adhere on it, but it you only take a little, you may put it without too much pressure on the brush.

On the akrylikey instructions, do they say make the mix on a glass plate ? I frankly find the mix easy to do, I am just unsure of the quantity to have the stronger bond. I also did not find any yellowish or cream looking powder, so I will make tests with yellow stain if necessary (concentrated stains for laquer and polyester) difficult to find the good color probably.

That is the kind of powder , it comes from Germany. I find the monomer in a beauty shop, and baught small jars and glass jar on the net, same supplier. All those products must be cheap, I have seen prices from 1 to 4 so some web sites may be exagerating.

Their burnishers may be worth a try (sanding block 1000-4000)

Edited by Kamin (01/20/1310:58 AM)

_________________________
Professional of the profession.

I wish to add some kind and sensitive phrase but nothing comes to mind.!

I wanted to thank you once again for starting this thread and the videos of this kind of repair.

I ordered some of this stuff after you showed me the video in this thread which was a year ago. I finally had time this week to mess around a bit and I like the results.

A tip about usage for yourself and everyone who tries this product;

At times when ivory gets thin along the leading edge (overhang) of the head, the ivory itself can appear opaque while the overhang appears more grey in colour, because there is nothing backing it from underneath.

I found today that while the mixture is still runny, a very thin coat can be painted on the underside of the overhang so that it appears opaque too. I used the runny mixture in the channel cut underneath the ivory head to do that part. This way the chip fill disappears completely.

Another way to do that;

When using the ivory glue wafers the excess wafer has to be cut away prior to heating the clamps and setting the ivory. I have been saving up a small tin cup of the cut away pieces of glue wafer, melted them in the glue pot with a bit of water and the glue that comes off gives the same result if painted on the underside of the overhang.