How to Install a Modern Lock Set on a C1 Corvette

Under Lock And Key - Improving C1 convenience and security with a modern lock set

Like a night in a Mexicali jail or a ride on a particularly nauseating theme-park attraction, the job of restoring a vintage Corvette often seems far more exciting when viewed from a safe temporal remove, long after the paint dust has settled and the bloodied knuckles scabbed over.

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In the case of our '58 project car, we've done our best to schedule the “fun” projects early in the process, adding custom wheels; dropping in a shiny, new fuel tank; and executing a period-faithful performance makeover on the stroked small-block engine. But with most of the big-ticket fixes struck from our to-do list, it eventually came time to turn our attention to some of the more prosaic details of the restoration.

High on our roster of tedious-but-necessary tasks was the job of replacing the car's aging lock cylinders, whose functionality ranged from partial to nonexistent. The ignition key was also MIA, meaning the only way to start the engine was by leaving the steering column unlocked and cranking it over without one.

It's worth noting that even if your C1's original locks remain operational, installing an updated set still confers a welcome benefit: Because most replacement kits use a single key cut for all of the included lock cylinders, you'll no longer need to tote around two different keys for complete access to the car.

For parts, we relied on Michigan-based Corvette Central, from whose vast product inventory we've drawn liberally over the course of this project. While we opted for CC's basic lock kit (PN 501101, $119.00) to keep our investment to a minimum, the company also offers a “Super” version of this package (PN 501100) for a few bucks more. Priced at $165, the latter includes all the contents of the base kit—specifically, a full complement of lock cylinders and a pair of keys—while adding the bezels, retainers, and trunk-lock rod you'll need to execute the install on a fully stripped body.

Let's take a look at the installation process, which, in keeping with our pattern up till now, took place at AntiVenom in Seffner, Florida. Though the job itself isn't overly challenging, there are a few tips you'll want to keep in mind as you work. Count on spending around two hours on the project.

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01 We selected Corvette Central’s basic lock set (PN 501101, $119) for our installation project. The package comes with new lock cylinders for the doors, trunk, glovebox/center console, and ignition, along with a pair of set-specific keys in a period-faithful design.

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02 We started with the trunk lock, mostly because it’s the easiest one of the bunch. Begin by gently prying off the cylinder’s spring-clip retainer, which can be found inside the lock housing. It’s virtually impossible to photograph, due to its location, but you should be able to ID it using the pictures that follow as a reference.

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03 With the retainer free, break loose the cylinder, again using a long screwdriver. Then, simply use both hands to push it out through the mounting hole and remove it from the car.

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04 This photo shows how the original assembly fits together inside the lock housing.

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05 You’ll need to transfer the bezel and lock rod from your stock setup onto the new cylinder. With that done, slide the whole assembly back into the mounting hole, reinstall the retainer, and you’re ready to move on to the ignition.

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06 Start by removing the ignition- cylinder bezel, using a specialty tool like the one shown here. These purpose-specific tools, which typically go for around $20 on eBay, are designed to liberate the bezel without scratching it.

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07 With the bezel removed, the only thing holding the cylinder in the dash is the wiring bundle plugged into its base. Unhook that, and the assembly should come right out.

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08 Because the car’s ignition key had long since gone missing, we were forced to drill out the factory base to gain access to the internal lock pin. Start by popping off the outer key slot, as shown here.

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09 Next, drill out the cylinder until you have room to depress the lock pin with an angled pick.

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09 Next, drill out the cylinder until you have room to depress the lock pin with an angled pick.

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10 At this point, you should be able to slide out the old cylinder and insert the new one in its place.

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How to Install a Modern Lock Set on a C1 Corvette

20 Note that the action of your freshly installed lock cylinders may be a bit stiff at first. This is normal, and shouldn’t be a cause for concern. Over time, and with regular use, they’ll loosen up and attain the kind of like-new feel you’d expect. vette

01 We selected Corvette Central’s basic lock set (PN 501101, $119) for our installation project. The package comes with new lock cylinders for the doors, trunk, glovebox/center console, and ignition, along with a pair of set-specific keys in a period-faithful design.

02 We started with the trunk lock, mostly because it’s the easiest one of the bunch. Begin by gently prying off the cylinder’s spring-clip retainer, which can be found inside the lock housing. It’s virtually impossible to photograph, due to its location, but you should be able to ID it using the pictures that follow as a reference.

03 With the retainer free, break loose the cylinder, again using a long screwdriver. Then, simply use both hands to push it out through the mounting hole and remove it from the car.

04 This photo shows how the original assembly fits together inside the lock housing.

05 You’ll need to transfer the bezel and lock rod from your stock setup onto the new cylinder. With that done, slide the whole assembly back into the mounting hole, reinstall the retainer, and you’re ready to move on to the ignition.

06 Start by removing the ignition- cylinder bezel, using a specialty tool like the one shown here. These purpose-specific tools, which typically go for around $20 on eBay, are designed to liberate the bezel without scratching it.

07 With the bezel removed, the only thing holding the cylinder in the dash is the wiring bundle plugged into its base. Unhook that, and the assembly should come right out.

08 Because the car’s ignition key had long since gone missing, we were forced to drill out the factory base to gain access to the internal lock pin. Start by popping off the outer key slot, as shown here.

09 Next, drill out the cylinder until you have room to depress the lock pin with an angled pick.

09 Next, drill out the cylinder until you have room to depress the lock pin with an angled pick.

10 At this point, you should be able to slide out the old cylinder and insert the new one in its place.

11 Reinstall the assembly in the reverse order of removal, and your new ignition cylinder is ready for action.

12 Pulling the glovebox cylinder is a piece of punschkrapfen by comparison. Just use an adjustable wrench to lightly wiggle the back of the mechanism until the bezel (which also serves as the nut) is loose enough to unscrew.

13 Out with the old, in with the new, and you’re ready to move on to the doors.

14 Start by twisting off the lock knob, then remove the three screws that hold the upper door panel in place.

15 Next comes the lower panel, which is secured with its own set of six screws. Don’t forget to also unscrew the white knob on the door-opening mechanism.

16 Allow the lower panel to swing down out of the way (there’s no need to completely remove it), exposing the black panel over the lock compartment.

17 The panel is held in with nine screws (or fewer: ours was missing two of them). Remove these to access the inside of the door.

18 As with the trunk, the door-lock cylinders are secured with a spring-clip retainer. Use a long screwdriver to release the clip, and pull the cylinder through the outside of the door. Once free, the entire assembly should look like this.

19 Use one hand to insert the new cylinder into the door from the outside, and the other to reinstall the spring clip from the inside. Reverse the door-panel disassembly process and start enjoying your new, single-key lock setup.

20 Note that the action of your freshly installed lock cylinders may be a bit stiff at first. This is normal, and shouldn’t be a cause for concern. Over time, and with regular use, they’ll loosen up and attain the kind of like-new feel you’d expect. vette

We execute a stem-to-stern fuel-system upgrade on a 1958 Chevy Corvette C1 by adding Corvette Central's Deluxe Gas Tank Kit. Following along on the installation right here in the March 2013 issue of Vette Magazine. » Read More