The magic of the mystic Mara, Africa, is alluring. And when viewed from the edge of a cliff, 300 metres above the ground, it is simply soul stirring.

Nicky and Steve Fitzgerald’s latest creation, the Angama Mara, has the best seats in the Mara, high above the floor of the Great Rift Valley. Perched on the deck of this stunning safari lodge, literally jutting out of the cliff-side (Angama in Swahili means suspended in mid-air), I felt I could spend a lifetime soaking in the spell-binding canvas in front of me.

To begin with, there’s the sky that goes from the most pristine blue, dotted with fleece white clouds during the day to an explosively vibrant mix of orange and purple in the evenings and finally to a jet black sheet, spray painted with a billion stars in the night. And then there’s the generous expanse of the spotted Mara Triangle—tranquil yet teeming with the abundance of its flora and fauna (500sqkm of plains dotted by balanite trees and blessed with nutritive grass, bordered by the Mara river on one side and the steep slopes of the Oloololo escarpment on the other).

I arrived to a short burst of rain that produced the most breath-taking double rainbow framing the lodge, every single colour vivid and resplendent. Later that afternoon, the very first drive into the park brought me to a heart-warming sight where hidden amongst a cluster of trees, three full-grown elephants, still and watchful, stood around a new-born sleeping on the ground. And thereon the stories just unfolded. It was as if the rains had given the Mara a fresh lease of life. A zebra foal lovingly nuzzled its mother, elephant calves walked awkwardly around their large families, curious giraffe calves stretched their long necks and a mongoose playfully ran after her pups. The Mara river resounded with the grunting of hundreds of hippos while crocs lay nearby, submerged and deceptively supine. Lions mated in their languorous style while impala stags locked horns to win over the affections of a potential mate. Hyenas sulked in their characteristic shifty manner while the leopard simply refused to grant audience. A lone tusker conducted a mock charge visibly upset by the interruption our presence had caused and there was the unusual rendezvous of a cheetah and a jackal resting peacefully in the shade of a bush.

The Angama expertise is at its best in the wild—from specially created open land cruisers to well informed guides (masters in the art of storytelling). My ranger John drove me far and wide on an all-day safari. At the Kenya-Tanzania border we caught the tail-end of the migration—a few hundred-odd lazy straggling wildebeest with some gazelle, zebras and eland in tow. John, shared my interest in birds and we witnessed some beautiful moments—from a grey-crowned crane gently protecting its egg to spotting dozens of lilac-breasted rollers creating tandem flight formations (the Mara is home to 470 bird species, including almost 69 raptors such as vultures and martial eagles). The most interesting story, however, was that of an unorthodox but brilliant alliance. As dusk fell, I chanced upon a large assembly of zebras, giraffes, impalas and topis (antelopes), in the middle of an open field. They would spend the night there, collectively watching over each other from any predators who may sneak in under the cover of darkness.

Back at the lodge, the architecture is dramatic, inspired by Nairobi’s famous Muthiaga club. Made almost entirely in red brickwork inspired by local Maasai techniques, it takes maximum advantage of its vantage location integrating the inside and outside seamlessly. Two intimate camps of fifteen tented suites each, a private airfield and direct access to the Mara below. The room is built to perfection with a touch of the whimsical. End-to-end glass frontage with decks overhanging the Mara. The bath tub is integrated into the room however separated by a stunning John Vogel screen in shades of grey and cream peppered with Maasai red. The bed was sumptuously comfortable and the bedside collection of books and malts a delectable touch. I slept with the curtains open and woke up early to see a heavenly sunrise—the sky was a gentle shade of lemon that suddenly changed into a bright beautiful orange dotted with colourful hot air balloons in the horizon.

Meal times at the lodge are delightful with home-cooked food made from fresh ingredients served with a generous helping of smiles. The overall feel is joyous, be it the lantern-decked family style bush barbecue of juicy steaks and succulent prawns or the al-fresco dining in the veranda with unending views. A touch of Indian in some of the dishes was a surprising twist and I could not have enough of my favourite dish—the spiced Kuku (Swahili for chicken). Beautifully and simply presented, classic safari food with a strong emphasis on creating the perfect picnics is what the chefs strive to deliver at Angama—be it hot chocolate pit stops in the sun-kissed plains of the Mara or sundowners in the fields with bitings (a term used for snacks locally). I particularly loved a river side brunch of delicious bread with farm fresh greens and superb cheese along with a crisp glass of Chardonnay.

The next morning, I went for walk with the naturalist also known as John (the son of a local Maasai chieftain). East Africans have a very spontaneous, easy and pleasant sense of humour that makes them delightful company. John was a step ahead with his theatrical banter, ready wit and indefatigable enthusiasm, cracking jokes even when showing me the remains of a young zebra (there was very little left frankly) that had been killed by a lion in the camp the previous night.

Amongst the many things that make Angama one of my favourite discoveries, is the fact that the camp is built on the very place where the iconic film Out Of Africa was filmed more than three decades ago. And the team brings to life the spirit of the film with aplomb. One of the experiences is a wonderful picnic atop a hill in the wilderness, exactly at the same spot where Meryl Streep and Robert Redford would lunch and spend the day in companionable silence. The thrill of the experience however, lies not so much in the aura of the movie or for that matter in the sheer beauty of the space, but in the ethos of the melancholy story of the protagonist. A foreigner so engulfed by the enchanting charm of Africa that she embraced this timeless paradise and its gentle inhabitants, both animal and human, as her own, not just physically but deeply in her mind and soul.

It is a feeling that I know and understand for the raw beauty of this land draws me to itself time and again. And it’s here where I come to seek ultimate quietude and solitude to free the mind and allow for the spirit to soar.

Favourite moments– Witnessing the arrival of rain in complete silence from the deck of the tent. I was captivated by the sweet smell of the wet earth.
– Being flown in to the lodge by an Indian female pilot along with an African female co-pilot.
– Watching life play out in the Mara through the telescope in the veranda.
– A gentle massage in the veranda of the tent listening to the sound of the breeze amongst the trees and feeling the gentle healing touch of the sun on my back.
– Designing jewellery along with the Maasai women in the lodge’s design studio. Loved the wide selection of beads and strings and the stunning craftsmanship on display.
– Giving back—Angama Mara’s initiatives in conservation, education and healthcare are exemplary amongst the various operators in the safari circuit.

Good to know before you goBest time to visit: The Mara forms the northernmost limit of the greater Serengeti-Mara ecosystem, where an abundance of Africa’s game roams over seemingly endless grasslands. A year-round destination with a temperate climate and seasons dictated by rainfall, the Mara is home to the Great Migration in July of each year for four months.Climate: Few seasonal fluctuations and normally temperate through the year. Long rains from mid-March through June and shorter rains during the months of November and December.How to get there: Daily flights to Nairobi International Airport by Kenya and Emirates from Delhi and Mumbai provides for great connectivity. Easy access to lodge via Wilson airport which runs CESSNA air taxis to the lodges private air strip.Natives: The locals, known as Maasai, have retained their traditions and remain a proud tribe with their tall stature and gorgeous beadwork jewellery. A strongly patriarchal society, they are nomadic pastoralists with their life centred around cattle.