Ultimate48,
This text is copied from a review done by a guy in the Aus. section
" Customer 24/09/2011 6:29:00 AM I did in the end get the FG parts to fit but I had to purchase FG parts 06069/02 to work with the 06066/02. I also purchased the FG gear 6431/1 because the one on my truck was stripped."
I hope this Hells you to get your truck running again.
I have also read somewhere that you have to get the FG shims to the diff because the original is to thick.

I'll have to go look up the part numbers I got but what pepped listed looks about right. I wish HK would look into getting some harder gears, but the FG ones on mine have been fine, they are just expensive. The comment about the washer shims is correct, I didn't even try using the original ones, went straight for the FG reinforced gears and the FG shims.

I took out the car today to brake in the engine.
After a while I made a small jump in a pile of gravel,(was about 12" up in the air). The car ended up nose down and tipped over on its roof, I flipped it over and realized that the right front upright was broken .
My thought was "Ok, it broke because it landed on its nose"

Fortunatly I had the spares with me so I changed on spot and 15min later I was driving around on the parking lot again.
This time I didn't jump with the car I was just driving it around between tarmac, grass and gravel. All by a sudden it broke again, the same piece..
This leaves me puzzled, is it really bad plastic they have used for these parts or have I made some adjustments so I got buildt in tension in them ?? anyone have some suggestions ?

(I tried to upload an image of the pieces but I can only add a "webb address")

Took mine out today for the first real run of the season. This thing really hauls, first time I have run it with enough of the stock mechanics changed to the official FG stuff and its finally not breaking. I had the tires separating from the rims but Im assuming they weren't well glued from the factory. Once it separates fully I am going to belt time inside of the tires with some duct tape because they really balloon quite a bit when it gets going.
I highly recommend picking up one of these, it may save one of your spectators lives, plus its just very convenient to be able to remote kill it...
http://www.killerrc.com/

Today it finally happend!!
I was out and driving today, making some small jumps and stuff.
When I saw the front tires slipping on the concrete and the car was going nowhere, my reardiff was shoot ! .
I guess I just have to bite the bullet and order some FG diff..

Just thought I'd thank Mark for his insight as I just bought one of these.

I'm an old school R/Cer with more than 60 cars in the collection, including a nice pair of 5B's & more than 35 yrs of competition. I want to do the 30.5cc/4hp engine in this so the insights are invaluable. I figure about $600 for the truck and $6-700 in upgrades and I'll have a real ball tearer for less than $2k.
Compared to what I spend in real life racing, it's a bargain.
Hope to do some updates to this thread soon.

Edited by BillE - 27/Dec/2013 at 6:06pm

Do not argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

BillE.
Another thing to add to the list is bigger & stronger turnbuckles.
The ones supplied is of aluminium and does not hold up those big tires on grass or gravel very good.
And with the steel turnbuckles you will need new upper wishbones.
Here's a list of what I ordered to replace the original turnbuckles.
(It's all FG parts)
6077-05 (Steelball rear)
6081-01 (Steelball front)
68266 (Whishbone front)
66267 (Turnbuckle)
6029-8 (Balljoint)
68225 (Whishbone Rear)
66226 (Turnbuckle)
Total around $134
And then there is the new gears for the diff which you Will need to replace eventually.
4x 6069/02 (diffcup for balldrive)
2x 6070 (Bevel diff. gearwheel A/B reinforced - set)
2x 6080 (Bevel differential gear axle)
2x 8495 (Shims for alloy differential - 4pcs)
That's another $330

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