Almost everything is velcroed on to the acrylic (it sticks well) including the battery

Pixhawk is mounted on a square plate with 3DR anti-vibration foam

Most electronics are mounted on middle plate, except for GPS, which is mounted on the top place to reduce interference (no mast).

DIY Power distribution system with 10 AWG wire splitting in to 4 sets of 16AWG wire. The battery is connected with 4mm HXT plugs, while the motors and the ESCs are connected via 3.5mm bullet plugs

Before

After

The cheap plastic props had to be reamed with a prop reamer to fit the 8mm shaft of the prop adapter. Nobody sells a metric prop reamer with a starting shaft size of 6mm (they all start at 1/4″!) I had to use a standard prop reamer that produced horribly off centered shaft holes. I bought a Durbo Prop Balancer and balanced the blades with tape, but I doubt it will do much good.

I have now completed the new and redesigned laser-cut Acrylic Frame. The old frame was made of 1/8″ aluminum which made it quite indestructible, but also caused interference with the flight controller avionics. Here are some of the improvements of the new design:

Mount for Pixhawk Safety Switch

Much, much more working space

Mounts for Raspberry Pi and Pi Camera

Support for removable anti-vibration mount

Everything is held together with 4-40 screws, and 1″ 4-40 hex standoffs. The 4 aluminum booms purchased from HobbyKing are sandwiched between the two plates securely.The acrylic turned out to be much bendier than I initially believed, so the frame is “squishy” at some areas.