Rockin’ That Gem: Top 10 Emerging Jewellery Designers at IJL2013

September 12, 2013

Here I present you my first collaboration with another blogger Isabella Lee from Rockin’ That Gem who joined forces with me to select the best jewels and emerging designers at International Jewellery London this year. Here she talks about some amazing emerging designers, while I sticked to what I do best – finding some real gems in the myriad of fine jewels. – Katerina Perez

Another year has come and gone for this illustrious event in the jewellery calendar year. Approximately 600 exhibitors, tens of thousands of products displayed and copious amount of champagnes consumed to bid a final farewell to Earls Court and a big hello to the iconic Olympia, who will host the annual 4 day event next year.

My experience at IJL2013 has certainly been a positive one after attending the last day of the event on Wednesday. With 600 well known brands, new designers, established retailers, suppliers and diamond companies participating in the exhibition it is hard not to feel rather overwhelmed by the sheer numbers! Different sectors cater to different visitors and I’ve tried my best to cover every acre of stands in sight.

I was excited by the opportunity to finally put a name to a face, or the Renaissance Rebel II pompadour bangle to a face. But then I’ve come across designers that I’ve never acknowledged previously, that’s the wonderful thing about events such as this; the discovery of new talents.

If I haven’t said it enough already, with close to 600 jewellery brands it is quite difficult to select just a few favourites as each and every one of them are unique in their own way, so in this exciting collaboration with fine jewellery blogger Katerina Perez we composed our personal list of the top 10 jewellery designers in IJL2013. Here is my list of 10 up and coming designers and ones to watch.

10. Leanne Evans

Simplicity in geometric forms holds the key in Leanne’s bold and distinctive collection of sterling silver jewellery pieces. She showcased her maiden collection ‘Squares’ as well as launching her new 2013/14 collection ‘Edges’ at IJL. Leanne is intrigued by individuals’ personalities and mindsets and create pieces to tailor to their DNA. The Volcanic ring is a bold statement with a hint of subtleness for everyday wear and for those special occasions. She is part of Vanilla ink, an award winning scheme that supports and mentors new batch of talented jewellery designers.

What first drawn me to Vanilla Ink’s Scarlett’s collection is the fluid and textured surfaces of her pieces. Inspired by the skin and its intricate natural imprints and hidden beauty, she formed the connection of skin to skin contact; wearing the piece is what makes us identifiable as human. Her use of gemstones and its unusual style of settings adds a touch of modern glamour to an already elegant piece. Seen above wearing her gorgeous sky blue topaz solitaire ring, it is given a contemporary twist to a classic and traditional style, the band is highly textured and bold to create an edgier alternative to an engagement ring. It also helps with sky blue being my favourite colour.

The stand out piece from Sara’s collection is her ‘Souvenir’ ring with unique etchings on the surface. On closer inspection appears a variety of photographic images of urban landscapes of city streets, landmarks and buildings, perhaps intentionally unidentifiable to form the wearer’s own story. Despite its appearance it is comfortably light and wearable. The ring is bespoke and can be made into any colour, shape and size with your own individual etchings upon request, making the ring entirely your own and that no individual has an identical ring.

Website: www.saragunn.com
Images from saragunn.com and me

7. Kattri

This wonderful Geometric collection has it all: futuristic, decadent and aesthetically pleasing, intended to wow with its clean, minimalist structure yet counteracted by larger than usual size, reminiscing the 1920s glamour where bold and beautiful bejewelled adornments were embraced. Already making waves in the jewellery and fashion industry after launching the brand in 2012, expect to see this become the most sought after collection.

Website: www.kattri.com
Images from Kattri.com and Instagram

6. Joanne Macfayden

I feel like I’m in a fairytale wonderland deep in a forest surrounded by fairies and elves in old folklore wearing this. This ring from the Eden collection is wonderfully whimsical and helpfully assisted with self-inflicted overactive imagination. You cannot help but stare in awe at the intricate detailing of the pieces and be transported into a fantastical never ending story. Joanne’s love for experimental-making techniques and pushing the boundaries is clearly reflected in her work. To be worn but it wouldn’t look out of place in an art gallery.

A playful take on the diamond facets and cutting process, Myia simplified its shape to create a truly wearable geometric piece for everyday occasion. Her ‘Classic’ and ‘Brilliant’ collections have extra mathematical precision that makes the jewellery more of a architectural and sculptural piece of wearable art.

Website: www.myiabonner.co.uk
Images from myiabonner.co.uk

4. Bug

How playful and fun are these? Bug founder Ellie Ingram created wearable miniatures from everyday objects. Everyone has a memory or an object that defines them; mine being the ‘Drink Me’ ring as I love drinking tea, or the keyboard necklace as a reminder of my childhood hobby. Her collections bring a sense of nostalgia once subconsciously selected from her vast collection and worn. It tells a unique story of a person’s past, experience, future and their favourite things in life. Her range has something for everyone and also customisable to tailor to your needs. Check out her current collections ‘Chained’, ‘La Declotheque’ and ‘La La Land’, they’re wonderfully whimsical with a unique story to tell.

Website: www.buggedup.com
Images: www.buggedup.pom

We take inspirations from different outlets, whether it’s from your surroundings, your loved ones, exotic travels or personal experiences, these inspirations allow the jewellery to go beyond from just a piece of jewellery to a unique personal story. Clarice takes inspiration from her watch and clock maker father to create feminine and elegant pieces from otherwise masculine internal machinery. Her Time collection has a sense of subtle movements with added glamour and luxury with a selection of gemstone choices. Also shown here is a sneak peek of her newest collection ‘Metropolis’ and I am in love with her winged out studs. She is certainly one to watch.

I have to say, I am obsessed with her Wide Perspex cuffs from the HEX collection. Their simple structure and geometry patterns creates a luxurious yet playful statement. Inspired from her trip in Jerusalem and the geometric shapes on the buildings and places of worship, Anna is in tune with the geometric trend that is here to stay. Also check out her new ‘Interactive’ geometric collection, the ability to rotate and re-arrange into endless combinations is a clever concept of creating your own individual piece.

Website: www.annabyers.com
Images www.annabyer.com and me

1. Rosie Sanders

Now Rosie’s Renaissance Rebel I and II collection has an intriguing narrative behind it. Inspired by Madame De Pompadour, she was King Louis XV’s most powerful French courtesan in the 1700 who came a long way from being an illegitimate daughter of a fishmonger’s wife to a high standing position in society and politics, it is an inspiration indeed! Rosie’s neo-classical collection has a luxurious contemporary edge that encourages us to embrace our inner femininity whilst flaunting our powers and ambitions. That concept alone is enough reason to wear the collection.