I have 2 boys. I bought fire fighter Succor basicly a steal. It's a 6 volt. Never had anything this fun and wanted them to have fun. So runs for like 10 minutes and the 7 amp 6 volt is dead. Have a good size yard but mostly grass. It has a hole for a second motor. And looks like it can take a bigger battery. I dont want to fry a small circuit board though. Should I get a second motor and get a 12volt or should I just get a second 6 volt in a 12amp. Also if I get a 12volt would it fry the controls and lights? Or can I wire them on the 6 volt and have just the motors on the 12 volt.

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Last edited by Canadian-charles on Mon Jan 01, 2018 4:48 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Oh man I love these companies. Not only do they provide a manual but they also provide service guides with all sorts of good information - something you won't find from Power Wheels. Anyway The vehicle you have is a Rollplay 6v Chevy Tahoe Fire Rescue. See below for the link to the website that has spare parts and both the manual and service guide. What you'll want to do is check out page 24 of the service guide as there's a wiring diagram to help you out. From what I've seen with Rollplay ride-ons is you can jump up to 12v however you'll need to change out the 6v relays on the PCB board with 12v 30a/40a relays and I'd recommend adding a 30a fuse too. You'll also want to go with an aftermarket battery as the stock battery has a self-resetting fuse that will trip after 10 minutes of use. What I don't know is how well the 2nd controller for the speakers and megaphone will react. You might be okay with 12v but the diagram in the service guide will help you navigate the wiring if you do decide to isolate the sound board.

A 2nd motor: From page 14 of the service guide you'll see that the gearbox and motor are sold as a single assembly - for $15 no less. You can follow the instructions backwards on how to remove the gearbox for adding the gearbox on the other side. What I can't tell you is if both rear wheels have the drive hub on the inside of the tire. I think they do and if that's the case that's great because you won't have to buy the hub/wheel.

Now comes the part where you wire up the motors. The first thing to know is you'll want to wire the motor in reverse polarity compared to the existing motor. This is to make sure they both go in the same direction. Don't worry if you get it wrong you'll know right away and can swap them on the spot. This is why I like to test things first before soldering the wires on though I suppose you can always use quick disconnects if you wish and just swap the leads if you do get them wrong.

The next thing you have to ask yourself is whether to wire the motors in series or parallel? If wired in series the 12v output will be shared between the two motors - they'll each get 6v. In theory this will double your drive time but won't increase speed though you'll probably get a slight speed boost anyway since there would be less drag on the motors. Option two is to wire them in parallel. If wired in parallel both motors will receive the full 12v. In theory this doubles the speed but won't increase your drive time. Unfortunately this ride-on doesn't have a two speed option though you could make one with a high current DPDT switch. What it would do is switch between a series and parallel configuration to the motors. I can make you a wiring diagram if you're interested.

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Oh, another option is to just completely bypass the PCB. This may require a bit more work depending on the shifter itself assuming you want to use the shifter. If the existing shifter has a DPDT switch already in it you're good to go but if it doesn't you'll want to figure out a way to get one inside the shifter. If you're ok with not using the shifter then an easy workaround is to just mount a DPDT rocker somewhere for this purpose. Anyway from the Rollplay wiring diagram it looks like a SPDT switch but you'll want to double check. It would be nice if it were a DPDT switch and just used one side but nothing no one is ever that lucky. If the switch is of a common style it may be possible to drop a DPDT switch of a similar style and size in the hole where the old switch was. You'll have to do some investigating on this one though.

If you do decide to bypass the PCB here's a diagram to follow. Just remove the High/Low switch from the graphic and run the wires that went to it from the FWD/REV switch directly to the motors. You'll still want to take into account series vs parallel here though.

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What did you end up doing? I have 6v rollplay GMC truck looking to upgrade to 12v,

Was thinking of picking up another stock 6v and wiring on series, now leaning towards just picking up 12v battery, how do I swap out the 6v relays on the PCB board with 12v 30a/40a relays? Can you provide a part number or something?