The statue "Lincoln Walks At Midnight" stands in front of the southern entrance to the state Capitol Complex in Charleston.

ATTRACTIONSCapitol: The largest state capitol dome in the country graces this stone and marble Italian Renaissance structure. The 20th-century classical architecture, designed by Cass Gilbert, features a 23-karat gold-leaf dome. Its landscaped grounds display many historical statues. Guided tours conducted 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday. Open to the public 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday and noon-7 p.m. Sunday. (800) 225-5982.

Cultural Center: Houses exhibits in the State Museum and research materials in the Archives. The State Theatre features concerts, films, lectures, and theatrical presentations. The Cultural Center is open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday 1-5 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. Closed state holidays. (800) 225-5982.

Governor’s Mansion: Designed by Walter Marens and constructed in 1924, the mansion is a traditional Georgian colonial structure in the Capitol Complex. The ground floor contains state rooms with the second floor serving as the governor’s private residence. Tours are conducted 9:30 a.m.-11:30 a.m. Thursday-Friday. (304) 558-3588.

South Charleston Indian Mound: Excavated by the Smithsonian Institution in 1885, this prehistoric mound was constructed as a burial place for chieftains during the first century, A.D., by the Adena people, who are thought to be the first settlers in the area. The second-largest mound in the state, it measures 175 feet in diameter by 35 feet high. It is in South Charleston on U.S. 60. (304) 746-5552.

Sunrise Museum and Science Hall: Home of William A. MacCorkle, governor of West Virginia (1893-97), presents a classic facade overlooking the Kanawha River and downtown Charleston, offering a spectacular view of the city. The 16-acre estate contains two restored mansions. One mansion houses a fine collection of 19th- and 20th-century paintings and special traveling exhibitions. The other contains a science museum. 746 Myrtle Road, Charleston. (304) 344-8035.

CHARLESTON, W.Va. — Born out of the Civil War that split families as decidedly as the state of Virginia was divided, West Virginia and its capital city were built on the fundamental motto that West Virginians are always free.

The only state to acquire its sovereignty by proclamation of a U.S. president, West Virginia is a union of contrasts from its mountains to the east, to its Ohio River farmland.

And at its heart is Charleston, the most northern of the Southern cities and the most Southern of the Northern cities.

Charleston is not only the state’s government center, but also a manufacturing and distribution center for the surrounding area, which produces chemicals, coal, petroleum, natural gas and timber.

Highest capitol dome

Whether the state Legislature is in session or not, the Capitol Complex is always busy. On tree-shaded grounds overlooking the Kanawha River are the Capitol, the Governor’s Mansion, the Veterans Memorial, the Cultural Center and several fountains and sculptures.

Encompassing more than 14 acres of floor space, the Capitol, made of buff limestone, is dominated by a 23-karat gold-leaf dome 293 feet high. The dome is 5 feet higher than the nation’s Capitol and the largest of any state capitol dome in the United States.

‘‘Visitors truly marvel at this structure,’’ says Alisa Bailey, spokeswoman for the state Division of Tourism. ‘‘The gold dome was controversial because of the cost, but it certainly is stunning. It really does make West Virginians proud and makes tourists stop.’’

The Capitol, designed by Cass Gilbert, ranks among the nation’s most significant examples of 20th-century classical architecture. The Capitol was completed in 1932 at a cost of about $9.5 million.

Mr. Gilbert also designed the U.S. Treasury Annex and U.S. Supreme Court Building.

Low crime

The Cultural Center, a showcase for West Virginia history and culture, houses the State Museum, reference and archives libraries and a theater staging a variety of performances, including West Virginia Public Radio’s Mountain Stage that attracts musicians from around the world.

For three months next spring, the center will be one of 20 U.S. stops for an exhibition called A Slave Ship Speaks: The Wreck of the Henrietta Marie, a collection of artifacts from a slave ship that sunk off the coast of Florida.

The museum traces the state’s history from American Indian migration to the early 20th century. Changing exhibits and the Museum Gallery showcase special collections and state artists.

The pedestrian-friendly city, with hotels, convention facilities, shopping and restaurants all within walking distance, also is safe, with the lowest crime rate in the nation for a city of about 57,000 residents.

Visitors can stroll along Capitol Street where brick sidewalks are lit by modern street lights that replicate gas-powered ones of an earlier era. Quaint bookstores, shops and restaurants line the street.

Further down, the Capitol Market combines Charleston’s outdoor farmers’ market with indoor shops in a converted rail freight station built in 1905.

For more traditional shopping, Charleston Town Center Mall is one of the largest downtown malls east of the Mississippi with 160 specialty stores, four department stores and several specialty restaurants.

‘‘Charleston is centrally located to such a large portion of the population of the United States,’’ says Eddie Canaday, sales director for the Charleston Convention and Visitor’s Bureau. ‘‘You can stay here and venture out to view scenery, attractions and activities in surrounding areas.’’

Whitewater heaven

Recreational opportunities are a major draw to the region. Nine miles from downtown, the 9,300-acre Kanawha State Forest offers horseback riding, swimming, camping, hiking and mountain biking. And the Coal River Livery also offers canoeing and float trips just outside the city.

Whitewater rafting on the Gauley and New Rivers, both within an easy drive, attract whitewater enthusiasts from throughout the world. More than 100,000 adventurous rafters and kayakers go down these rivers each year.

‘‘The scenery was so beautiful,’’ said Nancy Earl of Otego, N.Y., who made her first trip to Charleston earlier this year. ‘‘Everyone was so nice and helpful. No matter where we were in West Virginia, no matter what we wanted to do, there were people who offered us suggestions.’’

Nearby South Charleston reflects the area’s Native American influence with its ancient Adena mound, built some 2,000 years ago as a chieftains’ burial place.

The Midland Trail, one of the oldest travel routes in the nation, begins just east of town in the community of Malden. Here visitors find the replicated homestead of Booker T. Washington next door to the African Zion Baptist Church, where he once preached.

Malden also is home to Cabin Creek Quilts, where handmade quilts are displayed and offered for sale. Pillows, wall hangings, clothing, kitchen accessories, and baby items handcrafted by the artisans also are available.

The quilting cooperative, founded in 1970 as part of VISTA, Volunteers in Service to America, has created quilts authorized by the Smithsonian Institution and sold through Lands’ End.

Some cultural amenities typically found only in larger metropolitan areas are found here with the West Virginia Symphony Orchestra, Charleston Light Opera Guild, Kanawha Players and Charleston Ballet.

The West Virginia Symphony’s monthly concerts have featured internationally known guest artists, such as violinist Itzak Perlman.

Sunrise Museum, with its Science and Technology Center and Torquilstone Art Museum, offers 30 interactive exhibits, including a planetarium.

For spectator sports during summer months, head to Watt Powell Park and watch the Charleston Alley Cats, the Class A farm team of the Kansas City Royals.

West Virginia is home to about 200 fairs and festivals, including Charleston’s Sternwheel Regatta, an annual river festival around Labor Day.

In November, more than 2,000 artisans exhibit Appalachian crafts and foods at the Capital City Arts and Crafts Show.

The Vandalia Festival each Memorial Day weekend at the Capitol Complex celebrates West Virginia’s folk heritage.

Concerts, craft demonstrations, traditional dancing, old-time music competitions, traditional and ethnic food and a ‘‘Liar’s Contest’’ are all favorites.

‘‘Leisure visitors no longer want passive vacations,’’ Ms. Bailey says. ‘‘Travelers want intrinsic reward in their travel — historic and cultural attractions that satisfy their wants and West Virginia as a state and Charleston as a city can offer that.’