Now, in Baltimore, the signature dish is the much-prized blue crab of Chesapeake Bay — steamed in beer, drenched in butter and served on a table covered with old newspapers and a wooden mallet to crack the shell.

Or maybe it’s the Maryland crab cake, made with big lumps of those blue crabs held together by mayo, Dijon mustard, egg and lemon juice.

With either dish, the signature spice would be Baltimore’s savory, potent, iconic Old Bay Seasoning, with its celery salt, paprika and, some say, everything from bay leaves to cardamom.

The wine? A juicy, mouth-watering albarino, the delicate, floral wine the Galicians of northwest Spain drink with octopus and garlic eels from the chilly North Atlantic Ocean.

Finally, since the Super Bowl is in New Orleans this year, we might copy a signature dish from K Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen there, with its genius chef Paul Prodhomme. Maybe the famous blackened fish — dredged in butter and the chef’s famous seasoning mix of black pepper, white pepper, cayenne pepper, paprika, onion, garlic, thyme and oregano and seared in a white-hot cast-iron pan.

What wine would handle that? I’d suggest Conundrum, a rich, multigrape white blend with a hint of sweetness to handle the heat.