The Manitou

You never know when youre going to run into a surprise.Like in the middle of the woods between Empire and Frankfort on M-22.Travel that stretch on a summer evening and youll come upon the Manitourestaurant.While the outside of the restaurant may look small, its spread out morethan you might think, with the result that the restaurant feels intimate,not tiny. In fact, with the four cozy dining rooms and the patio, they canseat around 100 diners at a time.But what is it that keeps those seats filled? The Manitou offers acomplete menu of seafood, steaks and other favorites, including chicken,duck and ribs, but owners Doug and Lisa MacHugh say their restaurant isbest know for its freshwater fish.The fresh walleye is a no-brainer special, said Doug. We have greatfish  people really like the way we prepare it.

BUSY NIGHTSFor that, Doug gives credit to Lisa. Shes been on the line cooking at therestaurant since 1985, while hes a front-of-the-house guy. Together theyoversee the operation, which may serve as many as 250 people on a busynight.And if youve driven by in the summer, youve seen the result of thosebusy nights. The cars overwhelm the little parking lot, lining both sidesof M-22.While it may seem as if its far from the madding crowd, Doug said theyvebeen successful from the start.When we started, people thought we were crazy, he admitted. But werenear Crystal Lake, Platte Lake, Crystal Downs.The result has been a restaurant with a loyal customer following, aidedand abetted by those driving along M-22 between destinations.We call it northwoods fine dining, Doug said. Its comfortable andcasual.In both its menu and its atmosphere, the Manitou reflects NorthernMichigan. Chargrilled meats, fish from the great lakes (the perch isalways popular), and an extensive wine list keep the customers happy.We put a lot of effort into the wine, said Lisa. Most everything isaffordable.Doug concurred. We have a full bar, but sell a lot of wine. Its ournumber one beverage.

SOUTHERN SOJURNSIn the off season, the two travel south, and of course, they eat out alot. That helps them determine what new things they may try as offeringsat the Manitou. For example, they were in the Florida Keys, and had aconch chowder they loved. So they brought it north, but substituted clamsfor conch. Theyre also experimenting with raw oysters.We do a lot based on what we like, he continued. We have a core menuthat never changes, but well have a special that does real well, and seehow that goes.If it shows continued popularity, it may make it onto the menu fulltime.Or it may just become a long-standing special, with the result that peoplecome in on the night they know it will be offered.Another longtime favorite is Lisas blueberry-raspberry pie, ahappenstance creation from her family. When she found a cache of berriesin the freezer at a relatives home, rather than toss them aside she mixedand matched and made a pie. The reception it got made her hang onto theconcept.Now, its a staple of the dessert menu.The crust is hand-rolled and its made from scratch, she said, taking abreak from her duties in the kitchen while prepping for the eveningsrush. For those with a sweet tooth, the Manitou also offers a frozenpeanut butter pie and key lime pie. The key lime is real popular in thesummertime, she said.The prices are not inexpensive  entrees start at $17.95  but thefriendly service, northwoods ambience, and the savory flavors make it wellworth the while.

The Manitou is located on M-22 at the southern end of Sleeping BearNational Lakeshore, about three miles north of Crystal Lake. Forreservations (recommended, especially on the weekend) or more information,call 882-4761. Online, go to themanitourestaurant.com.