You don't have to be a vegan, or even a vegetarian, to enjoy an animal product-less meal. Vegan cuisine isn't just for hippies, yogis and animal rights activists anymore. While you will see a lean, lanky employee sporting a braided mass of knee-length dreads at Native Foods Cafe, those with hardwired carnivorous tendencies shouldn't let vegan stereotypes deter them from trying an all-plant-based meal. Far more than just twigs and berries, the vegan cuisine at Native Foods is ripe with complex flavors, satisfying textures and organic, healthful options.

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Once inside Native Foods Café, which occupies the space that formerly housed Rumbi Island Grill at the Twenty Ninth Street Mall, you'll choose from a multitude of meat-free selections. Don't get confused by mentions of Native chicken, Native bacon or Native cheese; this place is 100 percent animal-free. Enthusiastic order takers are well-trained to answer most menu questions. Come prepared to wait a bit when placing your order during peak. though.

While ordering, you may be distracted by the dairy-free pastries in the dessert case -- cheesecake, cupcakes, parfaits and brownies all look tempting. My companions and I opted for both the cheesecake and a chocolate iced cupcake.

Organic, natural and local selections of beer and wine are also available. There are also such delicious and refillable soft drink selections as lavender lemonade, agave-sweetened watermelon-mint agua fresca and hibiscus-berry iced tea. We sat inside in air-conditioned comfort as we waited for our food to be prepared. In addition to indoor seating for about 75-100 patrons, the cafe offers outdoor seating adjacent to the restaurant.

Food arrived in 5-8 minutes, and the server, noticing our drinks were nearly empty, offered to refill them for us and checked back in with the table more than once, a nice touch for a counter-service establishment.

A Maryland tempeh cake appetizer came out first. Not your everyday fermented soybean cake, the tempeh at Native Foods is prepares from scratch. Mixed with red onions, peppers and spices, these seared cakes come with a spiced chipotle remoulade for dipping. Lemon wedges, a bed of mixed greens, brunoise of tomato and a sprinkle of chopped parsley help sell the crab cake mirage. Of course, these don't taste like sweet lump crabmeat fritters, but they were satisfying and beautifully presented.

The soup of the day, a Moroccan lentil, was a bit watery and in need of a good stir. Chunks of sweet carrot dotted the red lentil puree. Bits of fresh ginger added an interesting crunch.

Of three different bowls I tried, the sesame kale macro was my favorite. The house-made tempeh comes on a bed of steamed kale, atop brown rice. Fermented sauerkraut, gomasio, toasted sesame seeds and scallions are sprinkled on top. On the side is a ramekin of seeded sliced cucumber and seaweed salad. A tahini and ginger sauce flavors the otherwise delicate dish, a light and clean lunch option for a hot day.

The rockin' Moroccan bowl features quinoa, currants, almonds, and mixed veggies. On top, a strategically balanced skewer of marinated tofu or Native chicken, mock chicken made with wheat, soy and pea protein, adds some heft. For a taste of Southeast Asia, the Bangkok curry bowl is full of steamed veggies and greens on brown rice in a lemongrass and ginger coconut curry. Tasty enough, but I'd rather hit up my favorite Thai spot for a more authentic and richer curry.

Two other standouts are the scorpion burger made with blackened tempeh topped with carrots, romaine, avocado, onion and chipotle sauce and the ensalada Azteca. Native Foods takes veggie burgers to a level of quality not seen at your traditional burger joint. Fries here can be hit or miss. Thin shoestrings on two occasions were served crisp and light; on another visit, they were undercooked. Salads are substantial. The Azteca featured avocado, cucumber and jicama salsa tossed up with quinoa, romaine lettuce, pepitas and currants. A heavy hand on the mango-lime vinaigrette can be avoided by asking for sauce on the side.

I'd rate the cashew-based cheesecake -- eggless, butterless and cream-cheese-less -- high for its velvety consistency and slightly fermented cheesy flavor. That, in addition to the fact no innocent unborn, unfertilized egg yolks were paddled into submission while preparing this cake, made it that more satisfying.

If eating cruelty-free doesn't appeal to your do-gooder sensibilities, you might just find -- and your taste buds may agree -- that eating at the Native Foods Cafe is its own reward.

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