The COBB Rear Motor Mount is the best way to minimize engine movement, improve traction, and reduce wheel hop without major impact to NVH. Typical bushing designs can rattle your teeth out at idle or during throttle input. The COBB RMM utilizes unique “voids” custom molded into the 85A durometer bushing to absorb vibrations, but still reduce engine movement to aid getting all the power to the ground. The beautifully machined 6061 billet aluminum mount with zinc hardware will make you sad you have to hide it under your car, but you will be grinning at every stop light!

Here’s a list of the tools you’ll need to do this yourself:

3/8 ratchet

Sockets: 13mm, 15mm

Wrenches: 13mm 15mm

Jack, Jack stands

10 mm hex key for the Cobb mount bolt.

Ok, on to our review/install. We decided it was time to replace that poorly designed factory rear motor mount on White Sheep. We took it around and drove it hard a couple times to see what it felt like, and it was horrible. We can understand the direction behind the design of the factory mount, they wanted to build it in such a way to keep costs down, while at the same time having a performance mount that would let you know when you are pushing the car a little harder than they recommend. Well, enough of that, we decided to go with the Cobb RMM. Here’s what they look like when we ship them to you:

Open it up and here’s what you’ll find, stickers, thank you card, and under all of that, and some protective foam, a pretty blue motor mount, it’s almost a shame to hide something that looks this great on the bottom side of the engine.

Here’s a look at the factory mount, the part we are replacing is held in with just two bolts that you can see here, one going vertically, one horizontally, but in order to get the mount out of its seat, we’ll have to get that pesky mount that attaches to the down pipe and engine out of the way.

You can see all the bolts aside from two in this picture here, they are hiding, but easy enough to get to. Pay special attention to the bolts on the rear of the mounts, those ones require a wrench to get to as there is not enough room to get a ratchet back there.

You can see here, me working on the upper/rear mount bolt, thank goodness for ratcheting wrenches!

Here is one of those bolts that weren’t shown in the first picture. Easy enough, 15 mm socket/ratchet, and it’s out!

These bolts have studs on the ends of them so you can slide the bracket for the downpipe onto them and hold it in place, just make sure you put them back on in the right places.

So after you have everything pulled off, it’s time to slide the new Cobb RMM in place and bolt it down. Here’s a shot of all the parts you have to take off in order to get the mount out.

Now that we have them all out, now we just need to slide everything back in, and throw that nice, blue Cobb mount back in place of the stock unit and we’re all done. Now my camera died towards the end of this install, so I just have a shot of the mount installed, but once you get this far along, putting all back together is pretty easy. Just make sure you use the right bolt in the mount through the sub-frame, and the Cobb mount comes with a bolt to hold the mount to the engine.

All finished, now, I will say after getting this installed, I knew to expect a bit of vibration from it, and it was about exactly what we were expecting. When the engine RPM is below 1200, there is a noticeable amount of vibration in the cabin and steering, it’s not bad enough to be a deal breaker, but it isn’t as smooth as a stock mount. You should expect this going in, as the stock mount is basically a mushy piece of rubber mounted to a flimsy piece of aluminum.
The Cobb mount all but eliminates the bang you get from 1-2 and 2-3 is gone.