Fox is serving envelope-pushing dishes, at times bewildering, that fit a restaurant as forward-thinking as Commonwealth. Case in point: a portion of proceeds from each tasting menu sold are given to a local charity, with the recipient changing monthly.

What lands at the table could have come from the playbook of the four-star Manresa or Coi. Chef Jason Fox clearly has his own vision, aided by Ian Muntzert. They're part of a new generation of chefs brightening the dining scene by creating innovative food that a decade ago would only be served in plush, white-tablecloth surroundings, with prices to match.