I cannot get my rear hatch on my 2004 Sequoia opened. I replaced the handle which was originally the problem as well as the cable. It appears as though the latch mechanism is jammed as I can't open it using the lever inside the door. The power door lock also does not work, so I can't unlock it either ( supposing this was the problem). Any ideas how to open the hatch?
Thanks, Rob

I was curious and did a Google search, and all I came up with was the following. It's for a 2000, but you never know it could be applicable to your 2004:

Quote:

The fix is easy, sort of. From the inside of the van, remove the bolts holding the handle and the pull strap on the hatch (inside). Then, starting from the top of the window, remove the plastic molding. It just snaps off. After you remove the top window plastic, then remove the molding on either side of the window, and finally, the large piece covering the inside of the hatch. Once you remove all the plastic, you will see a cable leading to the hatch clasp at the bottom of the door. Just pull the cable and the hatch will open.

Thanks for the response Traildust. I have removed the covers and tried this, but the lever on the mechanism won't budge. I tried to see if it is locked, but it seems my power lock at the back is not working either. I will need to gain access or remove the latch mechanism in a different way.

Only thing i can suggest if you want to continue troubleshooting the issue yourself is (if you don't own a copy of the factory service manual) for you to purchase a two-day, $15 subscription to Toyota's TIS (Technical Information System), which will allow you access to every diagram and source of info for your Sienna. That would probably help a lot in figuring out the what and where. Let us know how things progress with this issue.

Thanks again traildust. I managed to get it opened. The latch which gets pulled by the cable was jammed so I used a screw driver and a hammer to move the lever that the latch actuates. It was helpful to have the replacement one in my hand to see how it works. I installed the new one and the door can now be opened by moving the latch, but the handle doesn't pull the cable far enough. Maybe there is some adjustment to take up the slack? I have now replaced the handle, cable, and latch.
Rob

...a year later...I was wondering if you have pictures or video of the replacements you did for the handle, lever and latch. I think my handle and lever are fine, but the door rarely opens when I pull my handle. I removed all the panels inside to take a look but I cannot actually see the bottom latch from there. when I do get the door open I noticed that the bottom latch is very stiff and hard to maneuver. I would gladly just replace the whole bottom latch but I don't know how to get it out, and then of course there is the unknown of installing the new one.

Thanks. Your comment on your previous post,"... wonder if it is the same mechanism as on the Sequoia" gave me an idea. I went home and checked the latch on my 1999 Sienna and saw how easy that latch was to open. So with more confidence I went and attacked the problem on my Sequoia. Step one is to remove all the plastic paneling on the inside. Step 2 is to undo the bolts on the outside holding the latch in place. It's actually a latch assembly that includes the power lock solenoid. Step 3 is to disconnect the connectors from the solenoid. That takes some patience and some nerve to do without removing the window assembly. I intend to attach a video where I kind of talk about this after I get the assembly out. Next step is to buy a new one and replace it. One should keep in mind this is a flawed design were somehow water leaks down into the assembly area and corrodes the solenoid and the latch. My recommendation is to make sure the window is FULLY closed when expecting rain. I say that because I noticed that the window does not seal shut until I hold the key into the locked position for an extra brief moment.

There are at least three issues with the Sequoia latch mechanism. The plastic latch pull breaking, lack of lubrication on the lower latching mechanism and the “latch handle ok but the cable won’t pull far enough” issue. The plastic latch replacement is well known. Lubing the lower latch mechanism prevents issues. But the “cable stretched” is another thing.

Resolution to THAT problem. Remove the handle. Just before removal have someone pull the handle while you are inside the vehicle staring at the solder ball that catches on the handle. You will see that it is, likely, not pulling on the ball far enough. The handle is ok but the cable has been stretched. You can verify this is the problem by pulling on the cable itself and the lower latch should release. You can replace the entire lower latch and cable assembly, costly and very labor intensive. Or….the fix I found on-line. Remove the handle, buy a set collar ($2.50)… it looks like a ¼ inch thick washer with an allen screw for retention, internal diameter of the hole just a bit bigger than the cable. Cut off the existing solder ball on the latch cable, slide on the set collar and move it down the cable about ¾ inch. Tighten allen screw. Insert back into the handle and temporarily push the handle back into the handle hole. Try closing the rear hatch. It should latch shut. If so, you are good to go. If it doesn’t, move the set collar “out” (closer to where the solder ball was, about 1/8 inch). Retry if necessary. If ok, do NOT trim off the wire strands that extend beyond the set collar. Apply epoxy to the area at the end side of the set collar and the cable end strands (cheap insurance). Let it cure. Reinstall all. Hint on working with the cable… if putting the cable back on the latch handle is a pain as it appears too short, unhook the cable mount inside the door with a small flat blade screw driver. This cable mount just holds the cable against the hatch sheet metal. Unlatch and you will have plenty of working room. Re-attach as part of the reassembly process.

Also… should have noted this earlier… if you can’t open the rear hatch and are wondering how to get all the trim pieces off a closed hatch, invest $4 in a pry bar, thin. Pry the trip pieces off one by one, starting at the top. Ugly but it works.

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