Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Weird Breakthrough on MC

OK so I went back like an addict (see this post for more on the topic)and tried the project, failing again and again. However just for fun, I tried using a turned out left foot on the left pebble and started doing the first move almost statically. However the humidity suddenly spiked and the sloper on the left became almost unusable. Tomorrow AM I'm going back. And then there's the proper sit start which is at least V11, maybe 12 though very dab-prone. I plan on writing an essay on this very peculiar odyssey.

I wandered around Flag looking at some other walls and have decided that Hollow's Way really has to be done. The only problem is that it's a wee bit tall and very uneven at the base. Props to Rob C for working this one out sans pads. So if there's anyone with a substantial quiver of pads and reasonable spotting skills who wants to tackle this beast, please let me know.

Listen if you might think you are a good climber, check out the news of Tommy Caldwell's 20-hour push on Magic Mushroom. I got tired just reading the account on the Climbing Website. This is a practically superhuman feat of climbing on a world, nay universal level. The route sounds grueling and sustained at a level beyond any I have heard of before.

Congrats to Alex Johnson (1st!) Alex Puccio, and Lisa Rands and Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, and Chris Sharma (8th!) for their performances at the World Cup in Vail. Three out of the six mentioned plus Ty Landman train at CATS gym in Boulder. I haven't been there in months at this point.

To the poster who responded to my complaint about 8a.nu protocol by saying just do more 7c problems: I deleted your comment since it was for all intents and purposes anonymous. Let me know who you are if you have something to say. By the way I am trying to do more hard problems as readers of this blog know too well already.

Finally if you haven't check out Dave Macleod's website and blog. A lot of pertinent info and writing from a climber who is way out there on the edge.

3 comments:

Jason
said...

Peter - As a fellow early morning Flag warrior I find your blog very enjoyable. I have looked at Hollows Way as well and thought without pads and a spotter its just not a good idea. I try to get up to Flag a couple mornings a week and would definately be interested in putting some effort into Hollows Way. I've got a few pads to add to the pile if you are interested.

I usually try to get up there by 7 and climb until about 8:30am. I don't have a set schedule as far as days of the week. I do have some unfinished business with the UTC so I'm hoping to get up there either Monday and/or Tuesday morning to finish it up, depending on the weather.