Winter 2016 | Kinshofer Route Climbers Keep the Ball Rolling

After multiple rotations to C1 and a couple of false starts to regain acclimatization above 5100m, the Kinshofer route climbers are finally back in C2 (6100m). Meanwhile, there are reports of Tomek Mackiewicz’ second retreat and from Rupal side, two of Cleo Weidlich’s Sherpa leaving Base Camp.

Kinshofer Route Going Up
It has been more than three weeks that Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara reached C3 (6700m) on Kinshofer route. Their current acclimatization level wasn’t sufficient for a summit push, even if weather window arrived (Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger hadn’t even touched the aforementioned altitude). The Kinshofer route climbers were thus waiting for a couple of stable days to go above, reach C3 and regain acclimatization.

A long period of strong wind followed by snowstorm and avalanches denied any climb until this week. An opening eventually appeared on February 14th. “Set off! Good weather is coming for three days (better not to speak up). Nevertheless, just having the chance for going up to mountain again makes us feel happy, very happy! Our cautious aim for today: open track until beginning of the couloir and spend the night in C1.”

However, the joy of being back on the mountain was short-lived. Clouds and strong wind caught them while they were still in C1; forcing them to turn back to BC.

Alex Txikon, Simone Moro, Tamara Lunger and Ali Sadpara set off again from BC at around 5:30am this morning (Feb 16th). The weather, fortunately, held and they were able to reach C2. Given the changed route conditions and the efforts required for reclamation of snow covered ropes above 5100m, it’s a significant development for the team. They want to reach C3 tomorrow, if conditions allow.

Lack of Updates from Other Climbers
There hasn’t been any direct communication from Tomek Mackiewicz, who wanted to have another go on Nanga Parbat, and the team of Cleo Weidlich on Rupal side. However, as per unofficial reports, Tomek may have abandoned his second attempt as well. It’s said that he reached the uninhabited huts of Kutgali (two hours from BC), but later descended to Ser village on Feb 15th. He is apparently on the way back to Chilas.

Unverified reports also suggest that two members of Cleo Weidlich’s team have abandoned the Rupal Base Camp. Cleo and three Sherpa arrived at Latobo BC in last week of January. They intend to climb Schell route.