I spent some time on an as good new Vittoria Corsa Evo SC which I got from a colleague. He tried to fix a small puncture with liquid latex but did not succced and he wanted to throw the tubular away.

After reading this topic and some other tubular repair topics on internet I openend the tubular for about 10cm of the valvehole, replaced the inner tube with a new latex inner tube (Vredestein), sewed it up again. Checked it and at last I glued the basetape back into place and put the tubular on a spare rim.

I inflated it up to 10 bar and it is holding with no bumps etc.

I only repaired a flat tubular once before so I do not have a lot of experience. But take your time, work carefully and do not hurry and you will succeed. Most member of the cycling club call me crazy for using tubulars. I agree that it takes more time compared to clinchers but it is no rocket science and I simply like the ride

By the way, I use Bison Kit as glue for the basetap which is, as far as I know, the same as Barge Cement.

Ideally a punctured tubular should be replaced by a spare preglued tyre you're supposedly carrying with you.

If you must use Pittstop then there often is no need to empty the entire can into the faulty tubular. Use whatever it takes to fix it and provides you with enough pressure to head back home.

IME experience this product does not work reliably at all though. More often than not the fix is only temporary even when it seems fine at first. The problem seems to be that it won't take any higher pressure than the one that actually fixed the puncture. Next day the tyre may deflate again as you reinflated the tyre to its usual pressure and load it some more by actually riding the bike.That, plus all the other disadvantages most of these products come with.Quite frankly of all of the similar products out there Pittstop is one of the worst and about twice as expensive as some lesser known brands which do a better job.

I only use liquid latex a la Jevelot or Tufo to fix very small punctures, the ones that aren't visible to the naked eye, at home.That often allows me to repair those tubulars without having to actualy open them up, etc. Works fine most of the time and since it does not require much of the product to work well it also reduces the typical drawbacks of said products.

Ciao,

_________________Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

Last edited by fdegrove on Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

According to a recent test in french mag "Le Cycle" the cheap and cheerful B'Twin (Decathlon) worked best followed closely by similar products from Hutchinson, Mafac, Michelin and Zefal.I can't help but notice that quite a few look identical in every respect except for the printing on the package....

There were only 8 candidates included in the test. Mostly those that are "Made in France" so to speak or at least readily available on the market in Western-Europe.

I spent some time on an as good new Vittoria Corsa Evo SC which I got from a colleague. He tried to fix a small puncture with liquid latex but did not succced and he wanted to throw the tubular away.

After reading this topic and some other tubular repair topics on internet I openend the tubular for about 10cm of the valvehole, replaced the inner tube with a new latex inner tube (Vredestein), sewed it up again. Checked it and at last I glued the basetape back into place and put the tubular on a spare rim.

I inflated it up to 10 bar and it is holding with no bumps etc.

I only repaired a flat tubular once before so I do not have a lot of experience. But take your time, work carefully and do not hurry and you will succeed. Most member of the cycling club call me crazy for using tubulars. I agree that it takes more time compared to clinchers but it is no rocket science and I simply like the ride

By the way, I use Bison Kit as glue for the basetap which is, as far as I know, the same as Barge Cement.

However, when I tried to pull the new, splitted, inner tube through the tubular by attaching it, with a knot, to the old inner tube the old one snapped. So I had no inner tube left in the tubular. As a result I had to, do not know the wright English term, "feed" a string line through the tubular which went quite easily. I used the string line, attached to the new inner tube, to pull the new inner tube through the tubular.

Next time I will not try to pull a new inner tube directly with the old one through the tubular. The knot is to big and most likely it will snap. Pull a string line (small but strong line) through the tubular with the old inner tube and use the string to pull the new inner tube. This will work much easier. Use talcum power. This will fascillitate the "pulling through".

For joining the end of the new innertube I used the same manner as described in the part "Splicing the Tube". I only used 3 cm's instead of one for rejoining and I was carefull not to get any glue past the joining parts. I used normal patch cement which worked ok. I tested the seam with a little, pressure.

I re-stitched the tubular with waxed dental floss and I tried to use the existing holes as much as possible. Be carefull not to stitch into the floss again when going backwards because it will tear. After checking air tightness at 9 barg a glued the base tap back with Bison Kit. (a flexible contact cement and I think allmost the same as Barge Cement)

The tubular is on a spare rim and I kept it inflated at 9 barg for several days and it was holding fine.

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