Your Cheat Sheet for Great Skin

Ever feel like you need a chemistry degree to figure out exactly what's in the latest skin creams? There's always some new power ingredient — with a long, complicated name — and you're left to decipher if this is the product that really will make your skin radiant, smooth, and wrinkle-free. Well, we've done your research for you and created your go-to guide for the newest buzzwords in skin care.

What is it? A plant-based sugar molecule that, when applied topically, promises to stimulate the production of glycoaminoglycans (GAGs), fluids that nourish collagen and elastin and defend skin against water loss. As we age, we lose GAGs — and, consequently, our skin's elasticity and volume.

The dermatologist's take: "I give this ingredient a thumbs-up," says Neal Schultz, M.D., a New York City–based dermatologist and the host of dermtv.com. "Pro-Xylane can stimulate the production of GAGs," he explains. Like hyaluronic acid, a lubricating substance found in our bodies, Pro-Xylane has the ability to bind water, plumping up skin. "Think of the outer layer of skin as a circus tent; when you lose volume from within, the tent folds, making lines look more prominent," Schultz says. "Pro-Xylane is a cheap way to produce volume."

What are they? Protein enzymes that made headlines after a 2005 study about cell longevity: Mice that consumed 30 percent fewer calories than normal produced sirtuins that allowed cells to withstand damage and live longer. What do these findings mean for your skin? By increasing the lifespan and enhancing the function of cells, you can delay the signs of aging — including fine lines, wrinkles, and brown spots.

The dermatologist's take: "Most humans can't tolerate a 30 percent calorie reduction, so the race is on to activate these sirtuins without starvation," says David Bank, M.D., a dermatologist in Mount Kisco, NY. Ingredients in several new skin-care creams are said to increase sirtuin activity. "It's an exciting new arena, and the promised repair is theoretically possible, but there is no peer-reviewed research to prove that it can be done just yet," Bank explains.

Also in the pipeline: a sirtuin-stimulating drug called Sirtris, being developed by GlaxoSmithKline, which would treat diseases associated with aging, such as diabetes. "This particular drug may not have a direct effect on skin care, but certainly the knowledge gained may be applicable to other sirtuin-stimulating chemicals," Bank says.

What is it? The brand name of a synthetic form of the venom from a Brazilian viper — a snake that immediately paralyzes its prey. When applied to skin, Syn-ake doesn't paralyze but could relax the wrinkle-causing microcontractions that occur every time we smile or squint.

The dermatologist's take: Schultz doesn't think this is just a case of snake oil. "Syn-ake is a peptide, and I believe all peptides work to some extent," he says. Syn-ake's own research suggests a 20-percent reduction in lines, a result Schultz believes is most achievable around the eyes, where skin is naturally thinner and thus easier for a product to penetrate.

What is it? A research method spurred by the Human Genome Project in 2003, which identified about 30,000 genes that make up our bodies. Cosmetic giants such as P&G, Avon, and L'Oréal got busy comparing how genes act in young skin, old skin, sun-damaged skin, etc., trying to pinpoint the key differences. Armed with this knowledge, scientists have worked to develop ingredients to counteract changes in the skin.

The dermatologist's take: "This research is the real deal," says Jeffrey Dover, M.D., a dermatologist in Boston and president-elect of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery. "Instead of going into the jungle, pulling out a plant, and hoping it works, we're going to be able to carefully determine just which new agent will help rejuvenate older skin."

Find genetically designed ingredients in Lancôme Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate, $78, which contains a complex to stimulate two "youth" proteins found in skin that decrease as we age; Avon Anew Reversalist Night Renewal Cream, $32, which contains a technology to increase skin's activin, a substance crucial to the natural repair process.

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