Tools

Parts

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

I've found that by using a thicker iPad tool dents the back less(not at all if your careful) and start prying just under the volume button and working my way down works better as the metal clips are on all sider except the right side.

Its seems easier to undo the clips on the left and bottom by levering them with an iPad tool and pusing the clips in from the edge with another tool when i can visually see them. One the right side, bottom and most of the left side is done there isnt much need to do the top as it will slide off if moved about a centimeter

9 Comments

Tried this with 2 ebay "OEM" cheapo batteries. Both failed- wouldn't charge, reboot every few minutes.

Solution: Dissected both new and original batteries. Snipped out old LI-ION cells from original Apple battery pack frame. Soldered new LI-ON cells into original battery frame.

Success!

The battery pack includes both LI-ION cells and an small circuit board. The cheapo replacement battery packs don't work (with newer IOS versions? are they actively blocking 3rd party battery replacements?)

Using the circuit board from the original battery pack with new LI-ION cells seems to fix everything.

Be ready to peel off a lot of adhesive label stickers and maybe use a bit of electrical tape to produce a renovated battery pack that works- original Apple battery frame + new LI-ION cells..

Thanks for letting us know that battery PCB takes LiIon cells replacement. I have the same problem with reboot using cheap ebay replacement battery. Going to test new LiIon cells for capacity and if OK - will resolder them.

PS: just replaced two cells, it works. Just in case, to prevent the charging PCB to loose the power (some LiIon controllers can lock because of power loss) I did it one by one. First I removed one cell, soldered replacement, then second one. I estimated capacity of new cells using Imax B6 charger - both of them were around 3100mah, not bad for noname $12 battery from ebay.

I am new to this. Does the iPad need to be kept powered up by an external battery while changing out the battery pack to prevent loss of apps and data? I don't mind so much losing data, it is backed to cloud. But apps are a problem as many of mine are no longer available.

I've performed the steps and it worked with Kastar replacement part, just to note that to open it first I've used the side were the volume button is located and slided through the botton were the front button is located.

Also is almost impossible to open it without broke some clips, I've bought some spares (10 pieces) that come handy because 6 were broken during the procedure.

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