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It worked fine for me, BUT I highly recommend putting the numbers at periodic intervals not just the ends, makes life so much easier thank trying to decipher what a wire is for mid-loom, especially if tapping into them for later add-ons

Like how you used a mirror to see the rear lights as well as the front lights

You have not missed a lot by not having the CBS module. One came with the Golf Kart and while there are enough fuses, I will be adding more relays to take the load off the old steering column switches.

Bushboy

"Always do what you are afraid to do"
"I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

Like how you used a mirror to see the rear lights as well as the front lights

Bushboy

Not quite true- the rear panel is off the car and pointed towards the camera and connected via a trailer socket.

Yes I have found the wiring to be hugely satisfying - it's like Frankensteins monster coming to life.

I have done as much as I can for now - However, the dashboard is like spaghetti junction and needs to be organised properly before I can fit the main dash cover. I have tested the all circuits and all work as they should but the instrument panel itself has become a bit overwhelming and baffling. I have decided to try and simplify it all by installing a common earth block to all the instruments and a series of disconectable in line connectors to allow me to remove the dash cover in future. Of course everything needs to be carefully labelled for future reference and maintenance. I am going for a retro 60's look to the switchgear with everything controlled by toggle switches (as per apollo spacecraft) as opposed to the more modern rocker switches and column mounted switchgear that we see on modern cars.

However, the entire wiring process has turned out to be much more interesting and satisfying than I ever thought it would be ( to be honest - it was the one job I had been dreading). Breaking it all down into manageable chunks has made it all much more understandable.

[QUOTE=Phill;128095]Not quite true- the rear panel is off the car and pointed towards the camera and connected via a trailer socket.

Yes I have found the wiring to be hugely satisfying - it's like Frankensteins monster coming to life.

I have done as much as I can for now - However, the dashboard is like spaghetti junction and needs to be organised properly before I can fit the main dash cover. I have tested the all circuits and all work as they should but the instrument panel itself has become a bit overwhelming and baffling. I have decided to try and simplify it all by installing a common earth block to all the instruments and a series of disconectable in line connectors to allow me to remove the dash cover in future. Of course everything needs to be carefully labelled for future reference and maintenance. I am going for a retro 60's look to the switchgear with everything controlled by toggle switches (as per apollo spacecraft) as opposed to the more modern rocker switches and column mounted switchgear that we see on modern cars.

However, the entire wiring process has turned out to be much more interesting and satisfying than I ever thought it would be ( to be honest - it was the one job I had been dreading). Breaking it all down into manageable chunks has made it all much more understandable.[/QUOTE

I used the old British colour system and ordered a load of standard colours from VWP.
I have worked on vehicles with single colour looms but always with t he code printed along the whole cable. as suggested.

The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK

I know I said I didn't rate the electrical blower/demister I had bought off Ebay some time ago -but I decided that while the dashboard was out to do the wiring I would go ahead and fit it anyway. The dash already had ducting glassed in underneath with holes to vent the air onto the screen. The original system would have used the Beetles heat exchangers but as previously mentioned my exhaust make no provision for fitting standard heat exchangers so I was on the look out for an alternative method of demisting. I have ducted the blowers output into the existing ducting (see photo below) and will blank off the ends where the ducting from the heat exchangers would have joined into the dashboard. Time will tell if it's any good - but in the absence of any other system for now I see no harm in trying this as I can still revert back to heat exchangers and a different exhaust at a later date if I choose to.

I know I said I didn't rate the electrical blower/demister I had bought off Ebay some time ago -but I decided that while the dashboard was out to do the wiring I would go ahead and fit it anyway. The dash already had ducting glassed in underneath with holes to vent the air onto the screen. The original system would have used the Beetles heat exchangers but as previously mentioned my exhaust make no provision for fitting standard heat exchangers so I was on the look out for an alternative method of demisting. I have ducted the blowers output into the existing ducting (see photo below) and will blank off the ends where the ducting from the heat exchangers would have joined into the dashboard. Time will tell if it's any good - but in the absence of any other system for now I see no harm in trying this as I can still revert back to heat exchangers and a different exhaust at a later date if I choose to.

I was watching Wheeler Dealers on Quest tonight and they were turning round a VW 181 'Thing' in California. These cars were essentially stripped back utilitarian vehicles, and didn't have traditional VW heat exchangers. It was interesting to see their solution to the heating issue ... a petrol powered heater.

I'm not suggesting anyone follows this route because I reckon the parts will be expensive due to their rarity, but I thought you'd be interested to see how it works. Here's a clip from the programme, where Edd China is finding all the faults with the heater. In the full length programme he manages to get it working.

Thanks Alistair. I've seen that program and Alex had suggested using a petrol powered heater as well. You can get versions designed for trucks to heat the cabin when the truck driver is parked up for the night but as you say they are quite expensive but another option to bear in mind for the future.