Evelyn Tutorial, Part 2

Step 4: Connectors

Pin a Connector with stabilizer to a Connector with interfacing, right sides together and matching all edges.

Now you want to make a mark on the stabilizer where you will stop sewing. You want to leave a long straight edge open so they are easier to turn. Mark about here:

Start at the short straight edge and with a short stitch length, sew at a 1/2″ seam allowance along the long edge.

When you reach the stabilizer, you want to sew right beside it, not through it.

When you get to the point, pivot with needle down and continue.

Stop and backstitch when you reach the mark.

Your stitching should look like this:

Trim the seam allowance only along the stitching down to about 1/8″.

Turn right side out. Use something pointy but not sharp to poke out the point. I use my scissors, and twist them.

Tuck the raw long edges inward 1/2″ and press.

Now your Connector is ready to go. Repeat to make 3 more Connectors.

They should be the same width as the Handle Stripes.

Fold the raw end of a Connector 1″ towards the side you want to be down and press to make a fold.

Slide a rectangle ring into the fold. I then use a little glue right along the raw edge to hold the fold in place. You may clip or pin. With the fold down, sew across the Connector as closely to the hardware as you can.

When you reach the end, stop and pivot to sew down the long edge to the point.

When you reach the point, stop and pivot to sew up to where you began.

We need to attach the Connectors to the exterior Main Panels now. Mark a line that is 2″ down from the top raw edge of the Main Panel and as wide as the Handle Stripe. It should be vertically centered with a Handle Stripe (2.5″ from center).

I glue baste the Connectors by applying a small amount along the raw end.

Place the Connector glue side down onto the Main Panel so that the top fold of the Connector (not the hardware) is along the marked line, 2″ down from the top raw edge of the Main Panel.

Repeat to glue baste (or pin) a second Connector to the other Handle Stripe on the same Main Panel.

Give them a quick press to set the glue. Now, measure 1″ down from the top line of stitching in both Connectors and mark.

Time to sew them on! First, sew across the Connector right over the existing stitching that’s along the hardware.

When you get to the end, stop and pivot so that the bottom opposite corner is lined up with the middle opening in the presser foot. Sew until you reach the marked line.

Pivot and sew right over the marked line.

Then pivot again to sew to the top opposite corner. Backstitch when you get to the end.

Repeat for the other Connector on the same Main Panel. Then repeat again to sew the two remaining Connectors to the other exterior Main Panel.

Step 5: Top Zipper Panel

Fold the two short edges of a Top Zipper Panel under 1/2″ towards the wrong side and press. Repeat for the 3 remaining Top Zipper Panels.

Make sure all 4 are exactly the same length.

Clip into your zipper trim about 1.5″ from the end with the zipper pull, on both sides of the zipper. I’m using an extra long zipper so I clipped more like 3″ from the end. Just make sure your clips are at the exact same spot, on both sides.

Unzip the zipper a few inches. Apply a small amount of glue along a long edge of a Top Zipper Panel with interfacing, on the right side. Make sure you only use a small amount of glue, and keep it right at the edge.

Lay the zipper face down, matching the zipper edge with the edge of the Top Zipper Panel, so that the clip in the zipper tape is about 1″ from the end of the Top Zipper Panel. Press the zipper trim in place and at the clip, turn the zipper tape so that it goes off the raw long edge of the Top Zipper Panel.

Press to help set the glue, then flip over and sew along the long edge of the Top Zipper Panel at 1/4″ seam allowance, sewing the zipper in place. You will sew right over the zipper when it turns off of the panel.

When you get to the zipper pull, with the needle down, lift the presser foot and slide the pull back.

Your stitching should look like this:

Flip the Top Zipper Panel with zipper so that the bottom of the zipper is up. Matching all edges of the two Top Zipper Panels, place the Top Zipper Panel without interfacing right side down over the zipper and pin or clip in place. The two Top Zipper Panels should be right sides together.

Flip over and sew right over the existing stitching.

Pull the two panels apart to make sure it looks like this:

Clip the end of the zipper (the one half you sewed over).

Press both Top Zipper Panels away from the zipper, wrong sides together, so that all edges match.

Pin the two Top Zipper Panels together. Top stitch around all 3 finished edges of the Top Zipper Panels, about 1/8″ from the edges.

When you get to the raw long edge, you’ll continue sewing to machine baste it closed.

This side of the Top Zipper is finished. Repeat this step to sew the two remaining Top Zipper Panels to the other long edge of the zipper. Make sure you line them up exactly with the finished side.

Find your little Zipper Tab. If you lost it, cut another one. (I lost mine twice and cut three total…sigh). Fold the short edges under 1/2″ towards the wrong side and press.

Then fold the two long edges under 1/2″ and press.

Then fold the whole thing in half, matching the two short ends and press. All raw edges should be hidden inside now.

I trimmed the end of my zipper because it was super long, but you shouldn’t have to. Apply a small amount of glue to the end of the zipper, top and bottom.

Slide the end of the zipper into the two long folds of the Zipper Tab.

Close back up and hit with the iron. If you aren’t using glue, pin the Zipper Tab to the zipper.

Top stitch around all 4 edges of the Zipper Tab to attach.

Your Top Zipper Panel is all done!

Step 6: Gussets

Match the bottom (longer of the straight edges) edge of an exterior Side Panel with a short edge of the Bottom Panel and pin. Sew along that edge only at 1/2″ seam allowance. (Per the pattern, the exterior Bottom Panel is cut from lining fabric so that it is contrasting.)

Open and press the seam allowance towards the Bottom Panel. Top stitch right along the seam, through the Bottom Panel and seam allowance.

Repeat to sew the remaining exterior Side Panel to the other short edge of the same Bottom Panel, then top stitch.

Repeat to sew the two lining Side Panels to the remaining Bottom Panel. These will be referred to as the exterior and lining Gussets from now on.

Step 7: Zippered Pocket

Mark a 9″ x 1/2″ box on the wrong side of a Bottom Lining that is centered horizontally and 3.5″ down from the top raw edge.

Flip the panel right side up and pin the Pocket Panel right sides together with the Bottom Lining, it should be around 2.5″ from the top raw edge and centered. Don’t mind my horrible cutting.

Flip so the Bottom Lining is wrong side up and with a short stitch length, sew around the entire marked box, backstitching at start and stop.

Now cut a line through all layers in the center of the box, stopping 1/2″ from the ends. Then clip from the line up to each corner.

Be careful not to clip your stitching.

Pull the Pocket Panel through the hole towards the wrong side of the Bottom Lining.

Tug, pull and press until it’s perfectly flat.

It helps me to roll the seams between my fingers.

On the wrong side of the Bottom Lining, I apply two small lines of glue along the long edges of the rectangle, then press my zipper in place. Make sure that the zipper pull is inside the hole. Flip over and see how you did. You may need to adjust, I do this by running my finger along the teeth to nudge it. Hit with an iron, then top stitch the entire way around the rectangle.

Flip the Bottom Lining wrong side up and fold the Pocket Panel in half, right sides together and pin in place. The fold should be at the bottom.

Fold the Bottom Lining out of the way and starting at the bottom fold of the pocket, sew up the side at 1/2″ seam allowance.

When you are 1/2″ from the top end, pivot and sew across the top.

Then pivot again and sew down the other side until the bottom fold.

Trim all seam allowances, including the ends of the zipper if applicable.