About me

My name is Linda and I’m an Irish expat in Latvia. I’ve been living in Riga for just over 3 years now.

As you may know, around 20,000 Latvian people currently live in Ireland but you might be wondering what brought an Irish girl here. After working in an advertising agency in Ireland for several years, I fancied a change and did a certificate in teaching English as a foreign language. I had a vision of my glamorous life in Paris, Madrid or Prague but unfortunately, none of those places wanted a teacher with no experience! I ended up being offered a job in Radom, Poland which I accepted – a girl’s got to start somewhere right? Of course, all of my friends and family thought I was crazy – why would I leave a great job in Dublin where I was earning €50,000 a year, to live in Eastern Europe and earn about a fifth of that? The answer was that I wasn’t happy and I believe that if you’re not happy, you have to do something about it. So I did. Of course, my friends and family were right. I hated every minute of it! I just about managed to survive in the middle of nowhere for 9 months and after that, I just wanted to go to a capital city, ANY capital city.

I saw an ad looking for a teacher in Riga and applied. I had seen Riga on a couple of travel programmes a few years before that and it had been in the back of my mind to visit someday – although I never imagined I would end up living here! Anyway, the interview went really well and I was offered the job, which I accepted. I still remember arriving in Riga, tired and cranky after an early morning Ryanair flight. Half asleep, I somehow opened my eyes just as we drove over Vanšu Tilts and was stunned by how beautiful Riga looked with the sun rising over Old Town. The whole city looked just like a postcard! I knew, there and then, that I had made the right decision to come here.

I quickly settled in, making foreign and local friends quite easily. Riga felt like home in no time at all. However, over the months and years, I started to realise that the big surface similarities between the two countries – we’re both small, green and have troubled histories with our neighbours – weren’t nearly as interesting as the hundreds of little differences. Why don’t Latvian people smile? Why do women wear evening dresses and 6-inch heels just to go to Rimi? How is it possible that one country can have so many stunning-looking women? Why don’t Latvians ever think it’s cold – even when it’s -25? Why does everyone like walking in the forest? Why does anyone like lard and grey peas? How is being hit with sticks after coming out of a sauna enjoyable? Why can’t Latvians see me when they’re walking? Why don’t Latvians use egg cups??

Feeling that perhaps I was going mad and that I was the only one who noticed any of this, I started writing this blog about some of my observations. Never really thinking that anyone outside of my immediate family and circle of friends would read it, I’ve been amazed by the response. The comments I’ve got have been overwhelmingly positive. It turns out that a lot of other expats living here had been thinking the same things and were relieved that somebody had finally put their thoughts into words. The Latvians, living in Latvia and abroad, saw some truth in what I was writing and thankfully found it amusing rather than offensive – apart from one or two people of course! Some of them have suggested that I go back to where I came from. One guy was helpful enough to give me step by step instructions on how to kill myself… Thank you but no – it looks like I’ll be here for a while yet!

Anyway, I’m really happy I started writing expateye as it has opened up conversations with people I never would have had the chance to get to know otherwise, it has given me more of an insight into the country I’m living in and it’s brought new opportunities my way.

So that’s my story – in brief anyway! I hope you enjoy the blog!

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380 Responses to About me

My name is Allie Kolb and I work in casting for a popular international travel show. The show is comprised of following people who are moving from one country to another. It can be a temporary move (6 months or so) or a permanent move. There would be monetary compensation involved for the people featured on the show. If you have any questions you can contact me via skype at alliekolb.leopard, or email me at AllieKolb@leopardusa.com

my friend and I were really thankful to find your blog when we prepared for our 4 day trip to Riga/Jurmala this summer. Of course, going on a short trip is in no way comparable to moving to a place, but it was a real joy to scroll through your articles, read about your observations and build an understanding of the Latvian culture from there. If you’d like to see how our trip went, you can check it out here: https://mintandcopper.wordpress.com/2015/10/11/sheer-beauty-4-days-in-riga/
We had 4 days on a budget and we really felt like we made the best out of it – such a beautiful city! One of the nicest trips I’ve experienced so far. Would love to come back some time, maybe also for a longer period.

Hello Linda. I too came as expat to Latvia 3 years ago.Renovated a house from earth floor to living good. I am now on Sate pension and all looks well. I am in the full building a landscaped garden here but soon will travel about seeing things here. I have driven to palaces and seen far over Riga when shopping. I live the far side of that city at Salacgrivas novads. Enjoyed your blog .Just found out today that Sir Terry Wogan has died at his home after a short illness. For years i have been taking him off for my friends to laugh. Now soon he will be only a great memory..

Ah! that sounds just like me who came saw and stayed. My place in Uk had been taken over by the national trust ,well robbed by them as professional thieves so I came to see if another nation had so bad a time. Latvia had indeed it had. I renovated a house and spent three summers building a landscaped garden to watch it vanish in Latvian harder strong winters. now I place plants in pots to house in greenhouse and shed. The rest is hardy down to minus 40 cel so you have to be well insulated and have load of wood to use in kitchen for cooking ,hot water and heated walls. Swedish type central heating is cheap to run but really expensive to have built. saying that summers here are magic and really hot most days. Rain on crops as we grow our own veg and spuds and keep hens, is never there when you need it.
Last summer was 17 weeks hotter than Rome and dry as a bone. Not like England when it can change twice in a minute. Latvia is far cheaper to live within but rather historic and backward in other things. Roads can be sand based and the drivers speed at full throttle making a sand dust cloud that can be a mile long.Trying to drive behind them is silly. One just has to pull off the road and wait. After rain big pot holes appear and at 5 mph for six miles picking ones way to save suspension becomes an art. Once the main roads are hit it is easy as tarmac is hard surface but flat as a pan cake with no camber so rain hits tarmac that sun has bubbled and its driving on a lake. Country houses have the problem unknown in the towns and cities but who wants to live with a crowd. It is nice to go into Riga a lovely city for shopping monthly and sit and eat in some of the best restaurants in Europe for luncheon.
Chinese Indian Mexican Thai American Russian Muldovia and UIkrainian Hungarian and nearly all speak good English. It is a great place to live in is Latvia but one may find it very hard if money is a problem as work is only seasonal and pays little in wages. A good rate is around 500 euro per month but a small family can live on that. The truth is that many live on far less and earn less. many unemployed go to England and America and hardly ever return. Houses can be bought cheaply but all need renovation which costs. To rent is hell as it is between 340 and 1000 euro per month for a two bed flat in Riga. Outside of the city you may be luckier but most available are snapped up by Latvians and it is cheaper rent on Government owned properties that most look like Russian prisons from the outset.
You must remember you are a resident here not a citizen for five years. One has to speak Latvian to pass the test. I hope this helps somebody as it took time from garden set up to provide it.

Hey Linda,
My name is Joe Pinzone and I’m casting an international travel show about expats moving abroad. We’d love to film in Latvia and wanted to know if you could help us find expats who have moved there within the last 15 months or have been there for 3-4 years, but recently moved into a new home. The show documents their move to a new country and will place the country in fabulous light. The expats on the show would also receive monetary compensation if they are filmed. They must also speak English fluently and can be buyers or renters for their homes. If you’d like more information, please give me a call at 212-231-7716 or skype me at joefromnyc. You can also email me at joepinzone@leopardusa.com. Looking forward to hearing from you.

I like your blog.
But.
The deaths in the Baltic States during the war, as a result of the fighting and the
policies of the various occupying powers, resulted in a major change in the population.
Accurate figures are hard to verify, but the total population reduction, as a result of
Soviet deportations before and after the war, German extermination of Jews and
others, and casualties from the fighting, was probably of the order of 20 per cent. This
suggests that the Baltic States lost a greater proportion of their population than any
other country in the Second World War, with the exception of Poland. It is striking
that the countries that suffered the worst loss of population during and immediately
after the Second World War were those that suffered occupation by both the Germans
and the Soviets.

Hi Linda, hopefully you are still reading comments here. I think I asked a question on here about taking the Celta course in Latvia a while ago, but I have yet to go through with it, as I was finishing my Art degree.

So, I have just returned from my 5th visit to Riga, and I am motivated to move there, and I am also interested in languages, though I can’t really speak any other languages (yet). So my idea is, to take the Celta in Riga through IH, and hopefully get a job there teaching immediately afterwards. My first question is, do you think it’s likely I would find a job this way? I was thinking that if you study with them, and choose to stay in the same place, they might help you find your first job? Opinions? (I’ll take your best guess, if you’re not sure) Could someone with no previous experience get a job there?

Secondly, I gather from reading your blog that teaching english in Latvija is not a huge money maker, but was it a struggle? Would you have managed okay without having some money saved up from your previous job? I have just read this article:

It scared the hell out of me! I went from carpe diem to despondent in a couple of minutes. What’s your opinion on that article? I don’t want to make a huge mistake, doing a course that isn’t very good, to get a job that leaves me struggling!?

Sorry for such a long comment, I realise you must be busy (just had a look through your german blog, seems you’re happier there!) But if you could give your honest opinion, I would really appreciate it!

Hi James, I think that article is a bit OTT. There are good schools out there (and of course, total nightmares) but it’s perfectly possible to find a good job. I knew a couple of girls that taught at IH in Riga and I think the money there is very good. They also help with relocation costs, etc. As far as I remember, the teachers there were earning at least 3 times what I was – and had their rent covered. This is quite rare though! Very few schools in Riga give contracts any more so if you don’t get into IH, you’ll likely be working as a freelancer. Expect to make roughly €15 per 90 minutes. You will also have to find your own private students as it will be difficult to get by on what the schools pay you – and hours can be sporadic. I would recommend setting up your own company as you’ll pay much less tax this way. I struggled for a while when I set up my own company. It took a while to take off. So I freelanced for 3 different schools and did my own private work in the evenings. It paid off in the end! Hope this is helpful. I would think getting in with IH would be your best option – doing the CELTA there would be a good start. Best of luck! 🙂

Okay, well that makes me feel better – I will try my best to get in with them! Setting up your own company, sounds impressive, if a little intimidating. I may bug you again for advice nearer the time! Thanks for your quick reply, and I hope Germany is working out well for you! Cau 😉

Its such a ” great ” blog that you have….
Well , what can i say? What a shame that we all are not from Ireland or some other wealthy country that would make us such big life enjoying people…

Latvia and other lil countries went through a lot , and they still keep going through a lot… And yes they do not smile each second when they see someone , or say all the time sorry,sorry , like some canadians…
Latvians do not fake theire emotions… When they are happy -they will smile, when not so happy they wont… They dont find it acceptable to be very chatty ,chatty, smiley, smiley , like you all do that. Deal with it .
Simple as.
They are not like americans and uk people who smile all the bloody time, latvians have different mentality… Different way of expressing them selfes….

Long story cut short- what on earth did u do there for so fucking long then , if u could not accept or understand so many fucked up things there…

Oh poor wee girl, she had to suffer so much, in this horrible place….

Oh well, as i said, what a shame , that we all cant just be irish judging pishead citizens….

Oh boo hoo for fucking Latvia – seriously, you think no other country in the world has had problems?
Good luck with your lifetime of blame-placing, non-smiling unfriendly people and looking to the past instead of the future. If navel gazing was an Olympic sport, the Latvians would be world champions.

This truly is a disappointing blog. I was hoping to find some intelligent insights about living in Latvia, and it’s just a bunch of snotty comments from a person who apparently has little interest in being there. Just annoyingly self-absorbed writing that offers no insights. Remember–“wherever you go, there you are.” Perhaps some non-blogging hobbies in your next locale would better suit your skill set?

You’re welcome. You weren’t happy in Dublin, you hated the city in Poland, you criticized many things in Riga. I’m sure the blogosphere can’t wait to hear about the next country you dislike. Seriously…come to the USA, I’m sure there are many things that you would dislike here, too. Colorado in particular sucks–you can’t ski in July, and there are only 200 kinds of world class beer brewed here. It’s awful–almost as bad as those hot girls in Rimi that annoyed you. 🙂

I’m an American interested in moving to Latvia. Before you raise your eyebrows, I promise I’m legit: I’ve studied the language and have been to Latvia twice before. I’m a choral conductor and want to spend a few years in this choral Mecca before coming back to the States for more schooling.

I’m wondering if you might be able to offer advice on how to secure a job in Latvia as a non-Latvian (particularly as a non EU-member, but you may not be able to help with that).

Damn, you caught me mid-eyebrow raise. I hate when that happens 😉 I’m afraid I don’t really know much about non-EU members working here – you could try contacting the American Embassy. They seem like helpful chaps! Sorry I can’t be of more help! You do sound legit though 😉 Linda.

Hello Linda!
At the suggestion of Anna at the Home and Away blog, I have been reading through your archives. I’m about halfway through and your stories are awesome! Excellent, intelligent humor and very well written. Your blog adds some delightful variety to my reading list.

Ha ha! I love that 🙂 Hmm, this is tricky. My opinion on Latvian men is kind of confused! On the one hand, they have a reputation for being alcoholic cheaters – and I’ve certainly found the cheating part to be largely true. Drinking is also a problem. However, Latvian women tend to be emasculating ball-busters so there’s fault on both sides. In general, I think Latvian men are more harmless than bad 😉 They can be sweet, sensitive and shy – at least until they get a few drinks in them 😉 I would take the fact that he’s left Latvia as a good sign to start with! If he likes you, he’ll let you know – eventually! You can click on the ‘love and relationships’ tag on the side of my blog to read more of my confused ramblings on the subject 😉 Hope this helps a little! Let me know if there are any developments! Linda.

You’re welcome!! I can imagine, I have seen amazing pictures of Riga and read many interesting stories too, I hope to visit it soon! And thank you for stopping by Packing my Suitcase, you are most welcomed 🙂

Thanks for the blog. I agree that it is important to challenge and make people think about everything that is dysfunctional in their country. I would encourage a more balanced and respectful view though.

Having lived in London for 2.5 years now – I do remember the first year here. You tend to focus on all that you do not understand, cannot accept, all the cultural differences. You laugh about it, you moan about it, you miss home and everything you are used to. But at the end of the day you are only a guest here and you should try to respect the place you have chosen to live. Do criticise, do challenge, but please try to love Latvia a little bit as well. It may not be the easiest place to live for a foreigner, but below the rough surface there is a lot to be admired.

All the best to you and I hope your time in Latvia will become more enjoyable.

Hi Ilze, thanks for the comment – I do love Latvia a little bit too 😉 Not all of the posts are negative. I don’t miss home at all though, just looking forward to the next adventure! Enjoy your time in London!
Linda.

Linda, the location of your commenting option is difficult for me to find. Is this just me? well I saw another one of your posts about the costs of living, roughly 400 lats a month? including utilities, but not food and drink? Is this roughly accurate?

A friend just turned me on to your blog, and I gotta say that it’s awesome! I’ll definitely keep reading. I happen to be doing something similar to your blog, but from a much more narrow perspective: I write restaurant reviews here in Riga from a foreigner’s perspective (I’m Swedish, by the way, living here since just over 3 years). If you have a dull moment, please check out my page at http://www.foodinriga.com. Maybe you’ll find it interesting!

Hi Michael, thank you very much! Just read your review of the Indian food at Paddy’s 🙂 To be honest, I’ve never tried it – don’t think I’ve eaten there at all to my recollection, but the idea of Indian food at an Irish bar is just too weird. And I can’t even imagine what an Indian pizza is! And I loved Spicy Affair as well – was very sad to see that close. Great idea for a blog by the way! There’s another blog that’s supposed to be doing something similar but he still hasn’t written anything as far as I’m aware 🙂 Keep up the good work!
Linda.

wow, you’re quick! Thanks for checking it out. 🙂 I think there should be a national day of mourning for Spicy Affair. I think it’s about 9 months now, and there is still a sign on the door saying “here will soon open a new restaurant”.. And yeah, Indian pizza isn’t the only weird thing in this city. Did you find the dill coffee yet?

I have been reading a few dozen of your commenters and your replies. It gives me a good idea of what an expat can expect when they open a blog on the country they see from the outside in (or inside out somewhat) . Yet fundamentally, it is the attention that counts. I hope you can weather the negatives, because in the Internet business negative and positive all counts for the same number of ‘1’ and ‘1’ is better than ‘0’. though we all want positives.
regards from Japan

Hi there, I’m a friendly lurker who really enjoys your blog. I just wanted to let you know that I’ve nominated your blog for a Versatile Blogger Award. To find out more see here http://theerlangenexpat.wordpress.com/2014/05/05/versatile-blogger-award/. This award is a way for bloggers to show appreciation to other bloggers, and it’s a personal kick up the bum to me to make sure I show my personal appreciation for you and your blog. Congratulations!

I thought, “A fellow Western minded person with an interest in Latvia, cool!”

Sadly it turns out that your blog contains nothing but low brow swipes at the worst of a country that has gone through more than most.

I am a North American who is very well travelled. I have family and many friends from Salacgrīvā to Aizkrauklē, and I am often humbled by the depth, tradition, strength and character of the Latvian people.

Sure, Latvia is dysfunctional, and there are more than a few reasons to think “wtf” every day. However, I have spent time in Ireland, Scotland and the UK. Vicky Pollard comes to mind.

Your blog makes all Western Europeans and North Americans look judgemental and rude.
Perhaps a few articles on the beauty you see everyday would add some credit and popularity to your blog.

My blog is plenty popular thanks! It was before you found it and it will be long after you toddle back to wherever you came from. I don’t know how you can claim I make all…look like anything. Everything here is my own opinion – I’ve never tried to speak for anyone else. I’m sure there are plenty of blogs out there with pictures of flowers blossoming and birds spotted in trees – I doubt anyone is reading them but they must be there. Or maybe you could start your own blog on the beauty of Salacgrīvā and Aizkrauklē. I’m sure the Latvian public is just dying to read that. Have a nice day.

Yeah, well, it’s not ‘Classy Eye on Latvia’ – I’m sure you’d do a much better job at that. FYI, most of the Latvians who read it actually agree with a lot of it. The patronising ‘Latvians have been through so much and are so deep and spiritual’ attitude from an American would grow old much faster than what I do, trust me. Quick question – have you ever actually lived here?

Hi, Linda!
Interesting, sometimes funny, sometime accurate and sometimes unfair. You could tell many of the things about any country. I never visited Ireland, but I am sure that there are anti gay politicians, and there is homophobia. Same-sex sexual activity was decriminalised in Ireland in 1993. That’s 1 year later than in Latvia and after 70 years of democracy and freedom as opposed to 2 years in Latvia.
We definetely have strange behaviour. We have obsessive idea of being opressed and having suffered more than anyone else. We need a foreigner (westerner) to tell the truth to acknowledge it. It is enough if a russian TV station tells a truth for us to start believing the opposite. We read stupid survey about hipster center in Miera iela, but we only check who hipsters are and where are their centers after someone (a westerner) tells in a blog where genuine hipster centers are.
Anyway, thanks and keep writing.

Hey! Thanks for your comment 🙂 I’m sure there are plenty of homophobic people in Ireland as well but the blog isn’t about Ireland – or it rarely is anyway. But it’s good to get people talking about this kind of stuff whatever country they’re in. I think I have the same effect on some people as a Russian TV station 😉 Linda.

Actually it is pathetic – all your blog and you, writter, as you wish to think about yourself.. All you do is judge people, calling people you do not know ‘a trolls’, laugh out the old people (in the pictures) make fun of the straingers, situations, places, etc. in a country you choose to live, even just for few years. What does it say about you? O’h.. Sorry… forgot! You are the prettiest.. smartest.. the most fashionable.. perfect body built compared to those slim, tall, fit Latvian girls…

right….

Perhaps cut down with the wine you drinking while digging into the couch or screaming in public ” why Latvians hate me!!!” and the people, places, situations and country will look much more positive! Alchohol and self hate makes people ugly. And not only from outside.. but you should know that by now. There is reason why none of Janis or even other expats like you didn’t ‘land’ on or even around you for long….Well, wish you better luck in Germany!

Mostly aggree with every word You say (Including reserved attitude to sauna). Apart from one MAJOR, FUNDAMENTAL difference – I do like outdoors activities, incl. walking/biking/motorcycling/skiing in forests. So it is much more bearable for me here. Hope You can find something here to make You feel that bit less Latvianish. Cheers!
Didzis, Riga

Linda,
Your posts are mostly negative about living in Latvia. Everything is bad, old, ugly… So why do you still live here? Its not like i am mad and want You to move out 🙂 I just wonder. I would never live in a country I dont love. Maybe you should write something nice about our country sometimes, of course, if You see any of it.

I do! You’re probably coming from delfi.lv I guess – I believe they translated only the negative parts of my latest post to try to get some more views on their lame website. They’ll be hearing from me 😉

I’m Latvian woman, and I read most of your articles here. You have your own point of view that’s for sure. They made me think a lot, laught and respect. While I agreed and disagreed with you, I loved the funny manner you expressed it. I suppose the average in Latvia is different for each of us. At least, you have found yourself here. If only it’s for a few years. And thanks for teaching English in Latvia, for me you seem to be an expert. Let’s keep looking up and smile everyday, it does make a difference.

yeah, my first reaction was – what the hell was she thinking? I couldn’t wait to get out of that country that is full of hate and anger. However, I do have to agree that there are more than a few amazing people to get to know, a more than a few foods that you’d fall in love with and, of course, the mother nature is just amazing.

There are two things that I miss about Latvia – a combination of blooming linden and jasmine aroma in Summer and oven baked bread.

No, unfortunately not missing. Maybe first year I missed my friends, family and work-sounds weird!;) But now- I don’t miss any more. In Latvia life is unsettled, specially for families with children. But of course, boys are missing snow and ‘proper’ winter!:)

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sailaway from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” ~ Mark Twain