In London, Japanese food is still mostly limited to ramen—which it does increasingly well—and sushi—which is either concentrated at the extreme top end of the market (The Araki, Sushi Tetsu, Uni), or is cheap takeaway lunch ... Read More→

I think a lot about what restaurants say about London. I’ve lived in and around London basically my whole life and while I don’t wear it on my sleeve and I’m not exactly a jingoistic chauvinist, ... Read More→

Cigala opened in 2001, if I have my sources right, which is so far before my time that it barely even registers. I started eating in London restaurants in earnest in 2013, and most of the ... Read More→

The last time I had Korean Fried Chicken (which, confusingly, has the initials KFC) was in Hong Kong. No, Hong Kong isn’t Korea, but just as you get better French, Italian, and Spanish food in London ... Read More→

Wapping is one of those forgotten places in London that you’ve vaguely heard of, as the site of a Victorian slum. A hazy memory of past industrial greatness. But it’s somewhere you’ve never really had a ... Read More→

Quaglino’s is a massive, beautiful underground bar and restaurant that has a 1920s Art Deco glitz and glamour. Perhaps because it’s that right amount of dark, or because it has a doorman, or because it’s very ... Read More→

So apparently savoury, or savoury-ish, ice cream is a thing! As well as some extremely good gelato—seriously, the best pistachio you ever had, insanely creamy and true-tasting despite actually being a sorbet—Mercante’s new Gelateria “pop up” for the ... Read More→

Bone Daddies has grown enough now to become a chain, but it has by no means lost its obsessive ramen nerdery. I know this because I was lucky enough to chat to antipodean-born Londoner founder Ross ... Read More→

Every city is going to have restaurants that while not in any way bad are also not in any way good. Not everywhere can be good. Even in Japan and the Basque country there are probably bad restaurants, ... Read More→

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