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Situation: No trees or one tree available to hang, but boulder or rock wall with cracks available.

Anyone come up with a way outside of using climbing aid wedges to anchor a carbiner for a hanging point?

If using climbing aid wedge could you give a brief tutorial on proper use and what model/size you prefer?

What size? You need one that fits the crack you have, that means, if you are carrying a rack of climbing gear, it is a viable option. If not, it isn't a practical solution, unless you want to tote 5-8 # of hardware.

On the otherhand, climbers used to call their protection pieces "chocks" from the english chockstone. You could use and appropriate sized rock with a tree hugger if you were careful.

At MountainTools there were couple models of nuts that weight in relatively light. Sets of 6 nuts weighing from 100 to 200 grams. The descriptions claim to be relatively versatile in there range of size and shape of cracks for each specific size. Add a couple more Camp Nano 23 carabiners total kit may end up breaking the 250gm point. Other option is pack a pad and get stuck on the ground.

yeah, you could carry a few small nuts, often the crack will vary in size so you might be able to find a spot to fit what you have in assuming it would be at the correct height. using a rock as a chock is a good option for larger cracks. you could also carry one of those omega link cams with the huge range, although they are a bit heavier. i like the carefully placed rock idea the best, that's what macgyver would do if he was a hanger. you could also do the staff trick with a strong dead branch.

Another thing to bear in mind, perhaps, is that nuts/chocks,wedges are designed for a situation of vertical load bearing, with the plane of the rock, rather than pulling outwards from it, as would tend to happen in hanging a hammock. Many times, in climbing situations, the gear rips just because of this - the loading pulls outwards rather than down, and swivels the gear out of the crack. You'd need to find a crack with a constriction that prevents outward pull. Not so easy.
It's also worth considering that climbing gear can rip unexpectedly. I can think of several occasions when I've fallen and a piece of gear rips before another one holds. I've seen it happen to others many times. That's why the principal of redundancy is so important in arranging climbing anchors.
All in all - I'd sleep on the ground on a mat if there was the slightest doubt, rather than lie awake wondering if that no. 3 Hex was swivelling a little on its axis ....

Received an email from MountainTools. They noted as above that the load on the nuts are intended to be more parallel with the the rock surface.

An inexpensive old school alternative are machine nuts with their threads filed off to prevent chord abrasion.

Finding a location with the right size/shape crack at an appropriate distance and height from the tree or other rock outcropping is sound is slim. The pad would probably be the better choice of an extra item to carry. Plus if it gets colder than expected more insulation, need something to pad a splint, soft cushion to sit on, dry entry foot mat..... Things you could not use nuts for.

Received an email from MountainTools. They noted as above that the load on the nuts are intended to be more parallel with the the rock surface.

An inexpensive old school alternative are machine nuts with their threads filed off to prevent chord abrasion.

Finding a location with the right size/shape crack at an appropriate distance and height from the tree or other rock outcropping is sound is slim. The pad would probably be the better choice of an extra item to carry. Plus if it gets colder than expected more insulation, need something to pad a splint, soft cushion to sit on, dry entry foot mat..... Things you could not use nuts for.

Yeah, and so far I have always carried some minimal pads for backup any way. But I don't carry pads anywhere as thick as I do when ( in dark days in the past) I am planning on sleeping on the ground.