Review: U’Luvka Vodka

You’ll see U’Luvka from a mile away, its oversized bottle looking a bit like a nearly-frozen water droplet just about to fall from a tree branch.

Perhaps that’s romanticizing things. This is, after all, a big bottle of vodka. Hailing from Poland and distilled from rye, wheat, and barley grains, it’s 80 proof and finally available in the U.S. after a long-simmering launch in England. It’s also one of the most expensive bottles of vodka on the market.

Make no mistake: This is old-world vodka. The nose is pungent with medicinal character, and the body is moderate in weight, neither light nor very creamy. The grains lend an awful lot of character to the spirit, lending it the feel of a kind of antiseptic tonic. The bite on the finish has serious teeth, although it avoids being harsh or overwhelming.

A complicated, tricky spirit. Certainly overpriced at $60, but an intriguing detour for the vodka connoisseur who’s otherwise seen it all.