goop

Quote:

Originally Posted by whirlcap

I used Goop. Same as Shoe Goo. My thoughts are that it's a flexable bond and nose in impacts will not split the wings at the nose. So far this has been true with my Assassin with many lawn dart impacts, no damage at all.

*************************************
I agree with ya - plumbers goop , shoe goop all the same formula. Welder's is a small tube and more $$ -which I have used on Twisted Hobby stuff

Alot more in the Plumbers/shoe goop , which is needed for the bigger ones ie Grim R and the other larger wings .

From my own experience, and that of my brother in law, I'd actually recommend against the gorilla glue for structural joints. Yes, it fills in the holes really well, so I use it for the shock cord, or for patching breaks and tears, but it also lacks the flex of hot glue or goop, and even gets brittle after a while. It'll hold in flight, but is more likely to crack apart in a collision, compared to other glues with more flex. When my bro in law finally cracked his reaper in half ( and that took some doing!) it was clear that the gorilla glue was already brittle and was the exact breaking point.

Goop is great stuff, but the drying time and messiness have always kept me from trying it on gluing wing halves together. I use it for hinging flaps on the Albatross or pelican, and then smear it on the leading edge of those planes' wings for protection, but I've never tried it on any flying wings.

I love that hot glue is done in a couple seconds, and has never given me any problems. A few people comment on the added weight, compared to gg, but I've built all my wings with hot glue, and have come in under the recommended weight on all of them.

For gluing the wing halves together, I'm also in the hot glue camp. The problem with the others is you need a way of clamping the joint while it dries. This is particularly true of the polyurethane-based Gorilla glues (brown and white), which expend as they harden. I've yet to figure out how to clamp anything together shaped as weirdly as the wing halves.

For gluing the wing halves together, I'm also in the hot glue camp. The problem with the others is you need a way of clamping the joint while it dries. This is particularly true of the polyurethane-based Gorilla glues (brown and white), which expend as they harden. I've yet to figure out how to clamp anything together shaped as weirdly as the wing halves.

Blue painter's tape. The 2" wide stuff holds well and releases when you want it to.

checked tracking and my assassin sould be here tomorrow! question, Being that this is my first flying wing, all my planes are regular motor up front, I ordered a bunch of 7/6 apc style props from hobbyking, should they have been pusher props?? If so I screwed up! but they were only 65cents each, no big loss...

checked tracking and my assassin sould be here tomorrow! question, Being that this is my first flying wing, all my planes are regular motor up front, I ordered a bunch of 7/6 apc style props from hobbyking, should they have been pusher props?? If so I screwed up! but they were only 65cents each, no big loss...

Electric motors do not need pusher props because the motor can turn either direction by trading any two of the three wires to the motor. So if it is running backwards, trade two wires. Props do have a front however. The writing is on the front of the prop and needs to face the direction plane is flying or you will have low power.

checked tracking and my assassin sould be here tomorrow! question, Being that this is my first flying wing, all my planes are regular motor up front, I ordered a bunch of 7/6 apc style props from hobbyking, should they have been pusher props?? If so I screwed up! but they were only 65cents each, no big loss...

No, just make sure your motor spins the right way, if not, just swap any two of the three wires assuming it's brushless Which I would imagine it must be. Make sure the writing on the prop faces toward the front of the plane too or you will have poor performance. It's real easy to put them on backwards from habbit of using nose (tractor, "pulling") motors.

I had already read that, just felt like asking a dumb noob question! never flown anything with motor in the rear and with elevons, but have a Dx8 and its a easy program. The motor I ordered for the assassin was the emax cf2812 from VH, I aready have a couple a tp mg90 servos and I have a 30 amp esc but not a 20 or 25. It should be ok I would think? I have alot of 11.1v 1300mah packs. Wing didn't show today? departed Memphis, about a hr from here! probably went to Jackson Ms next, about 3 hrs from here... usps does that sometimes... looking forward to putting it together! Looks like alot of fun!!

I agree I really love flying my Radian Pro too especially now that I have a camera mounted on it.
My Assassin is on the bench to be built right now.
Can't wait to get that out there and do battle with Blu and Jim