The pattern is written in a way that you can adapt it to the width and length of your feet. Before you start, measure around the widest point of your feet.

I had a gauge of 5 cm to 12 sts, and 5cm to 13 ridges in garter stitch (i.e. 26 rows in garter stitch) and 2 cm to 8 rows of stockinette stitch. With this gauge and with a CO of 2x18 sts, the tip bit is 12 cm long. You can adjust the length of this part by casting on more or less stitches.

Instructions

Part 1:

Magic CO 2x18 sts (i.e. 18 sts on each needles).

Now turn your needles around in a way that you're looking at the garter stitch bumps.
All rows of part 1 will be knitted in a U-shape, i.e. you knit the stitches on the first needle turn the piece upside down (this point will be called turning-point ("TP") and knit the stitches on the other needle. Then you turn your knitting to the WS and knit back.

Setup Row: k18 to TP, turn ktbl 18
Rows 1 to 9: sl1, k to 1 st before TP, kfb, turn, kfb, k to end (after a few rows your piece should look similar to photo no. 1)
Row 10: sl1, k to end
Row 11 = Row 1
Row 12 = Row 10
Row 13 = Row 1
Row 14, 15 = Row 10
Row 16 = Row 1
Row 17 and following: continue knitting rows without increases (i.e. Row 10) until the piece is wide enough to fit halfway around your feet (i.e. its half the width of the widest point of your feet) - and remember how many rows without increases you have knitted. Your piece should now look like photo no. 2. For me to reach a width of 11 cm, I had to knit 9 rows without decreases. Place a removable stitch marker in the first stitch of the next row. (This is where you will start to pick up the stitches for part 2.)

Knit the same number of rows without increases again.

Basically now rows 1 to 16 are knitted backwards with decreases instead of increases. i.e.

Break yarn leaving a tail of about 40 cm and start grafting in garter stitch. (See photo no. 3)
Graft both sides together in garter stitch.

Part 2:

Starting at the point where you put the removable stitch marker, pick up and knit stitches around the rim of the tip (one stitch per garter stitch ridge) - see photo no. 4.

Part 2 is knitted back and forth (not in rounds), so one row is knitted from the inside of the slipper and the next row from the outside.

Count the stitches and devide the number by 4 (this number will be called X). In row 1, you will place two markers, one X stitches away from the beginning of the row and another X stitches away from the end of the row.

Row 1 (inside) : sl1, k X-1 sts, place marker, p to last X sts, place marker, k to end

Now, between the two markers there should be as many stitches left, as there were garter stitch ridges without increases or decreases in part 1.

From now on only one of the upper parts (in garter stitch) are worked, the stitches between the markers will be decreased row-by-row and the second garter stitch bit will not be worked until the kitchener stitch in the end.

Row 1: sl1, k to marker, ssk, turn, sl1, k to end

Repeat row 1 until there are only two stitches between the two markers

Then knit the following (last) row: sl1, k to 1 sts before marker, do a double central decrease

Hi, just a quick note to let you know that this post was featured today! you can check it here: http://keepingitrreal.blogspot.com.es/2016/09/the-really-crafty-link-party-34-amazing-features.htmlThank you for joining the party and have a wonderful weekend.