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Even though it opened in 1985, savvy locals consistently rate this unassuming, canal-side Jordaan restaurant one of Amsterdam's pioneering modern kitchens. The dining room—a generic whitewashed box—is so modestly understated it reads like an afterthought, but the restaurant's loyal, urbane crowd is too smart for faddish décor themes. What keeps them coming back is self-taught chef Wil Demandt's impeccable food.