Overview

- Gran Paradiso (4.061 m) All Northern Routes -

You primarily seem in ice tall around 600/650 meters high and revolt toward the Valsavarenche Valley and hemmed by two edges: the N-NE Crest if to the left and her W-NW Ridge to the right; the average or middle inclination amongt the various streets in ice is 60°~, having varied since 45°/50°~ of the by n° 2 Route to the 75°~ of the by n° 8 Route (in the old times and actually to the beginning of the '900 also to 90°/95°~ (slope) and perhaps over of inclination, as from B&W pictures of the epoch; historical route and in the street of inexorably non-existence). ALL the STREETS from Northern, EXPOSED here, they ask for a very good training, excellent conditions meteo and a suitable and efficient equipment. To abdicate case of uncertain time or, worse, bad. Recently a misfortune for these factors has caused four corpses among various ropes Czechoslovak, engaged him, despite the very bad time, on the Crest N-NE of it.
Together with the NE (by Lino Binel and Amilcare Crétier) and NW Face (by Lino Binel, Albert Deffeyes, Remo Chabod and famous Valtournanche's mountain guide Luigi Carrel also called "Carrellino") of The Grivola, N Walls of the Roccia Viva (by Giuseppe Delmastro-Carlo Pol) and Gay's Becca (F. Nagele, G. Perugini and Toni Usmiani), it constitutes one of the slopes in ice more renowned, binding and fascinating than the homonym group. Her conquest from the rope "valdotains", formed by Luigi Bon and by the famous Academicians of the Italian Alpine Club Amilcare Crétier and Renato Chabod in the '30 belong to the

History of the ascensions of the great glacial walls

characterized and proper of the end of the Twenties/Thirties in Aosta's Valley and French and Swiss surroundings: from the triptych also "trittico" (Red Sentinel, The Major, The Poire Routes) of T. Graham Brown to the Brenva's Face of Mount Blanc, to the N Wall of the Aiguille Blanche of Péuterey, from Renato Chabod-Aimé Grivel, to the Couloirs-Gulllies Piero Filippi-Piero Ghiglione-Francesco Ravelli of the E Face of the Tacul's Mount Blanc and Varying Direct of left Giusto Gervasutti-Renato Chabod, to the N Wall of the Aiguille of Triolet of the strong Swiss ice-climbers Robert Gréloz and André Roch, to the Ns and NE Faces of the Mont Dolent, respectively of the consorts Mr & Mrs Golay/Schonenberger and of the legendary rope Chamonix Marcel Couturier, Armand Charlet and Alfred Simond, to the SW Wall of the Great Combin de Grafeneire, by a the group of roped "valdotains" climbers Amilcare Crétier-Lino Binel-Michele Baratono-Alberto Deffeyes, to the N Face of the Dent d'Hérens, of Eugen Allwein together with the famous Willi "Willo" Welzenbach, to the great exploit/enterprise on the Northerly of the Matterhorn also Cervino, his/her brothers' masterpiece Franz and Toni Schmid, to the W Wall of the Western Breithorn (E. R. Blanchet together with the renowned ice-climber of epoch Kaspar Mooser), to the W (Giorgio Brunner and Zermatt's mountain guide Bernard Biner) and N-NE (E. R. Blanchet, Kaspar Mooser and Josef Aufdenblatten) Walls of the Western Lyskamm and finally in the streets of the great routes of the Mount's Rosa E Face (Gnifetti Point: NE Central Ribbing "French's Route", authors Lucien Devies-Jacques Lagarde; Of it "Right Nervation/Ribbing", of Massimo Migliola, Giuseppe Mosca; Cesare Pironi with Zaverio Zurbriggen; NE "Central Variation", by Remo Minazzi, Dario Palazzolo and Arturo Peirano, Punta Zumstein: O Face also "Mooser Route", by the same with E. R. Blanchet and Josef Aufdenblatten and, to end, Colle Zumstein from "Great Crest Ettore Zapparoli" and through the immensely enormous E Face, by the group of mountain guides of the "Valtornenza" Alberto Bich, Amato Bich, Battista Maquignaz, Camillo Maquignaz and Casimiro Bich).

Getting There

BY CAR:

From Torino, Milano, etc: Motorway A5. Exit at Aosta Ovest. Drive to the near Aymavilles. Follow the directions for Valle di Cogne or Pont di Valsavarenche.

From Switzerland: through the Grand Saint Bernard Tunnel or the namesake Pass. Drive to Aosta, then follow the direction for Courmayeur on SS.26. Just after Sarre, turn to the left, in the direction of Valle di Cogne or Pont di Valsavarenche.

From France: through Mont Blanc Tunnel or Petit St. Bernard Pass. It isn't necessary to take Motorway A5: you can drive on SS.26, in the direction of Aosta. Before arriving at the Village of Sarre, turn right following the sign for Valle di Cogne or Pont di Valsavarenche from Villeneuve Village.

BY PLANE:

Aeroporto Internazionale "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta).

At Routes Approachs

Emilio and the Ciarforon (3.642m)

To NW Wall and W-NW Great Ridge through Valsavarenche Valley:

A)- the ascent to Northern Routes of the Gran Paradiso is generally done in two stages: on the first day you follow the normal route to Gran Paradiso and gain 880/90m~ of elevation from the fork on main road (1.829m; small earth parking, immediately afterwards the Camping Great Paradise) to Renato and Federico Chabod Refuge (2.810m). The ascent happen by path 5/10A passing through Previou (1.869m), Lavassey (2.194m) Pastures and crossing under the Savatère Coastline (2.575m), by a difference in level about 900m (E; 1h'30/2h'00).
The second day is spent on the climb to the Summit: from hut, by same standard route to "Granpa" on Lavec(c)iaù Glacier with deviation at quota 3.300m, to various routes of the North-western Face and to of the Great Ridge West-Northwest (numerous crevices; look out!) reaching the routes at 3.400/50m.

B)- even using the two (Old and New) Vittorio Emanuele I° Refuges, the all ascents to Northern Routes of the Gran Paradiso is usually done in two stages: on the first day you follow the normal route to Gran Paradiso and gain 770m~ of elevation from Pont (1.960m) to two Refuges Vittorio Emanuele (2.734m) and (2.745m). From great ground park, nearby the Camping Pont-Breuil 1.952m) cross the Savara Stream (abounding signs and panneaux for the path n° 1) through a wooden bridge and, by South direction and along the same torrent, continue as far as the 1.991m pasture, in renovation stage; doubling this in right go up on upper promontory by dint of hairpin bends and cross over the Chanté Alp (2.372m, ruins). Through a final diagonal overcome the about 770 meters difference in level reaching the two huts (E; 1h'15/2h'00).
The second day is spent on the climb to the Summit. From Vittorio Emanuele II° Refuge: through normal route traces behind the hut, go up North direction on lateral right moraine of the Gran Paradiso Glacier and join the Montcorvé Rise in quota about 3.170/80m. Easily cover to Northeast and at quota 3.431m go down 100 meters up Laveciaù Glacier to opening of the various routes.

C)- from Chabod Refuge (See above Approach A): by East direction, reach the frontal moraine and the little Montandayné Glacier in quota 3.159/3.200m. To cross and go up towards Montandayné Pass (3.718m), by the great couloir between Vaccarone Point (South) and Montandayné Becca (North) and keep to the left, more and more nearby the W-NW Eperon/Spur of the last (3h'30/4h'30, along variable; dangerous for rocks and ice fallings).

D)- from Lionello and Lucio Leonessa Bivouac: First day from Cogne (1.534m) one quickly reaches the Village of Valnontey (1.666m) where parking is available in the large square near the center of the village. Start, through the path n° 22, the ascent on the orographic right (climber's left) of Valnontey. Once past the Hamlet of Valmiana (1.728m), reach the Erfaulets Bridge at (1.830m). Cross the bridge and continue along the trail until a fork at (2.080m) (1h'40/2h'00). Quite inverting the direction in right (Northwest) and through the path n° 22G, take the right branch, cross a small bridge and climb along a winding path to the "Casolari dell'Herbetet" at (2.435m) Here you will find a hut of the Gran Paradiso National Park. Continue along the steeper winding trail that climbs the grassy slopes. Once in the upper Herbetet Valley, keep slightly left; once across the Herbetet Brook, climb again in the direction of the morainic ridge surmounted by the East Ridge of Herbetet. (Follow the signs!) In its vicinity you will find the fixed Bivouac named after the brothers Lucio and Lionello Leonessa (2.910m) sleeps-12, (4h'15/4h'45 from Valnontey). Be warned that in summer the bivouac may be crowded and that it may be hard to find in the dark or in the fog.Second Day: Go to the South toward the Morains of Tsasset and of Tribolazione and pass it getting the Tribolazione glacier; along it first in the SW, near the rocks to pass over the seracs, then, at 3.100m~, in the SE trying to find the best track (changing every year due to the flow of the glacier) to get the upper plain of the Tribolazione Glacier at about 3.500m~. This step, paying attention to the falling stones, can be passed also more to the West, near the walls between the Becca di Montandaynè and the Piccolo Paradiso. Now, always toward S after climb the slopes toward the E-NE Wall as far as quota 3.577m~ and climb to East snowy/icy Slope to of the pass summit.

E)-first day: with departure from the Tourist Village of Cogne (1.534m), through bus or through the auto always in the road for Valnontey small Village (1.666m). Cars can be parked in the great square next to the center of the country.
To begin the slope of the Valnontey Valley on its orographic right side (climber's left and by the path n° 22). Go past the pleasant Pastures of Valmiana (1.728m) and reaching the little Erfaulets Bridge (1.830m), to cross it and to actually continue along the run to an alternative (2.040m, 1h'15/1h'30h), where he takes the branch of left. Only on the other side of quota 2.100m~, leaving left (Southeast) the deviation to Alessandro Martinotti and Stefano Borghi Bivouacs (paths n° 22E, 22F), continue on a less marked trace before by Southwest direction, after South, and follow the left bank of the a secondary stream and afterwards among the various ramifications of the Torrent Valnontey Sources. Head for the moraine called "Barma des Bouquetins" (= ledge/shelter for steinbocks also called ibex) (2.698m). Climb the moraine's ridge in its entirety reaching a hump. Follow this relief to a large snowfield, at the end of which you can discern a ledge going left. Climb on a faint, exposed trail for the entire length of the ledge; turn right and reach a small hanging valley. Head for the opposite side, and climb to a glacial dell between two spurs, cross it in the direction of a distinct rock gully. Climb the gully with circumspection, for the rocks are often covered with "verglass" and gravel. Past the gully, you'll get to the top of the spur, where one are installed next to the other the two you camp out fixed: Carlo Pol (3.183m, sleeps 6) and Marcello Gérard - Ettore Grappein (3.200m, sleeps 9) (5h'30/6h'30 h from Valnontey).

E)-second day: from Carlo Pol and Gerard Grappein Bivouac: from Carlo Pol and Gerard Grappein Bivouacs: from both the bivouacs cross in Northwest the Tribolazione Glacier (very dangerous route at your own risk and danger, numerous crevasses raison, variant year and year; sometimes non recommended); at base of the Montandayné Pass rejoin with precedent route of the Leonessa Bivouac.

Routes Description

1)- N-NE Ridge: great crest watershed among the Valleys of Cogne (to East) and of Valsavarenche (to West) it comes down, with sinuous "trend", toward North from the Peak of the Gran Paradiso, stings culminating of the whole group mountainous and only completely Italian top in the Valley of Aosta of over 4.000 meters, and fit to separate the two important valleys. Form, road doing, numerous, magnificent and important mountains like the Piccolo Paradiso (3.926m) with his numerous and jagged summital steeples, Peck at her of Montandayné (3.838m), the elegant and triangular pyramid of the Herbetet (3.778m), the Grand Sertz also Grand Serre (3.553m) covered by the glaciers, for finally to rise again herself, after the frequented with the Lauson Pass (3.296m), to the splendid and famous pyramids of the Grivola (3.969m) and of the Grand Nomenon (3.488m) to finally finish on the Central Valley of the Dora (= Dora Baltea Stream, the most important of the Aosta Valley)) Baltea in a district amongst the Communes of Valsavarenche, Aymavilles and Cogne, towards the entrance of the two valleys "valdotaines" of the Gran Paradiso Mountain Chain.
The sector most specific essay go up from the Pass of Montandayné to the Gran Paradiso, even if in tightened sense the part really related to the N-NE Crest of the mountain has beginning from the Pass of the Piccolo Paradiso(3.877m) as far ass to the maximum Peak (4.061m). * HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE: it results to be the first street traced on the Northern Slope of the mountain (forehead to the Valsavarenche and on the watershed Valsavarenche/Cogne Valleys) and it slightly possesses a controversial history and brightly unraveled by the authors of the Guida C.A.I./T.C.I. "GRAN PARADISO Parco Nazionale" Emanuele Andreis-Renato Chabod-Mario Carlo Santi, Edit for the first time in 1939 and with reprints of 1963 and 1980. Synthesizing: the first slope of the crest belongs to the rope formed by the mountain climber English F.T. Wethered accompanied by the guides Laurent Proment and Eliseo, respectively of the Villages of Cormayeur and Cogne in date Jul 20th, 1876. The same, taking the movements from Cogne and through the Glacier of the Tribulation, it went up again the slope it is of the Pass of the Little Paradise, but it didn't reach it immediately landing instead on the snowy great shoulder to South of the same; from there it continued in crest meeting the only serious difficulty in the overcoming of the Quota 3.975m , faced on her Western side. After it always continued on the thread of crest lending well attention to the big frames, then surely of others and greater dimensions. Nine days later Emile Javelle with J. Mooser and F. Fournier the it referred but departing from the Southern Points of the Little Paradise (Nord 3.926; South 3.925m) or also said Point Frassy, reached always by the Tribulation through the Wall Of it and the Crest it is since in highest of the snowy shoulder 3.919m. Unaware to have been preceded by the party Wethered they attributed the first ascension and so it resulted for a lot of time: : "… for this street that we have perhaps crossed for the first ones, the ascension is of an impressive beauty, she remembers the crests of the Weisshorn and the Dent Blanche. From this point where they are found some rather thin and fragile snowy frames, an only passage introduces some difficulties; a rocky point that raises him to half route... there is not more than to follow a beautiful crest of snow, formed here and there of the frames that lean toward Cogne and on which needs to proceed with great precautions... " (note of George Yeld in "Alpine Journal" IX, page 363 from the "Book of the Travellers" of the hotel Royal of Courmayeur by remarks of Emile Javelle; the same unpublished annotations were revisited in 1938 by the compilers of the guide above mentioned and quote in the 1939, First Edition. Very probably you are already been viewed and sifted by the magazine of mountain "Alpinismo" 1937, page 74, that it already lifted doubts on the result to be this the first ascent of the N-NE Crest.).
From Montandayné Pass enough easily go up toward the Little Paradiso, formed particularly by various steeples, spires, pinnacles and summits, with three in particular evidence: to scramble toward her/it before also called Stings Luigi Vaccarone Point (3.872m), but revolving on the left (East) a more binding plate (slab more difficult (II°+/III°-; see the second photograph in her "lace") and cross in South overcoming over the Central or Farrar Point (3.919m) es the two Southern also called Frassy Points (NW Summit 3.926m; South Summit 3.925m) reaching before the Quota 3.903m and with swiftness the Little Paradiso Pass (3.877m). Through a terminal partially snowy, with a more aerial terminal line, to grab in the final part the true North Ridge of the Gran Paradiso before to Real Summit and, immediately afterwards (short passage in descent of II°; sometimes delicate for covered with snow), to reach the Little Virgin Mary Statue on Traditional Summit (PD+/AD-; recommended period: half Jul/Aug/Sep; 4h'00/6h'00).

2)- NW Face and N-NE Ridge: by atypical and probably more repeated, it consists in an attempt not succeeded of ascension of the real Wall NW of the Gran Paradiso; realized with a direct and central attack in the frozen wall, gone up again for around 200 meters but then interrupted for the bad conditions of the ice, and in a long and certainly not easy crossing on the left climbing over the two following rocky "groins". A further wall in ice in the sector most Oriental, even if less steep, it conducts not without difficulty to the N-NE Crest, near the small tower 3.975 but and through this to the peak with the last part of the itinerary n° 1. * HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE: first serious and known approach towards the great Wall NW of the Gran Paradiso, that had already attracted the eye of the best mountain climber of beginning century XX°; the attempt is brought by two names of the Italian mountaineering: Aldo Bonacossa that you has marked with a lot of new streets of the classical style the decade of the Twenties and Vitale Bramani, famous inventor and "tester" of the sole in rubber VIBRAM as from his initials of full name. It is accustomed to that, you apply to the boots, they supplanted the old spiked shoes or "Tricouni" revolutionizing completely the way of climbing and to go to mountain.
The rope, departing from the Shelter Vittorio Emanuele II°, it attached to the dawn of 28 June of 1930 actually climbing vertically at the base of the inferior serac, then of well other dimensions; the conditions of the ice (in comparison to the available equipment to that times) they convinced the two mountain climber to abdicate the slope of the real wall forcing them to look for to the left a street of escape (N-of it). They also went beyond the ribbing of left (what few days I approach you would have allowed the first slope of the same one the Academicians of the C.A.I. Amilcare Crétier and Renato Chabod together with Luigi Bon; you see her Route n° 3 ) and, with a long diagonal, always on the left, they were addressed toward a second and less important rib, coming from her Quota 3.975m on the Crest N-NE. Climbed over her, they concluded out along the most oriental sector of the wall going out to the left immediately of finishing in Peak with the crest watershed aforesaid. Theirs the first historical attempt remains however and served as warning sign to the result from there to few days of the rope Aosta Valley.
From bergsrunde, by a long left diagonal (NE), reach the Little Paradiso Pass (3.877m) and, by an aerial and exposed N Edge, after the small tower Quota 3.975m, with snowy route (in North, to Tribolazione Glacier, frames) to Summit. As it regards the technical and historical notes to see even the underlying one Route n° 3)- (AD; best time: end June/July; 4h'00/5h'00).

3)- NW Face (Left "Ribbing"): the first entire ascent and almost complete of the wall. Historically it is not the first attempt of slope of the same one, since the 28 of June of the same year the rope Aldo Bonacossa-Vitale Bramani it reached the inferior serac for then to divert with a long diagonal toward left. After having doubled the "nervature" of the Street Amilcare Crétier and Companions, he directed to the left dark even toward the following rib and descending from the Quota 3.975m; after the traverse of the same still on the left of it directed to the n-NE Crest, for which concluded in Peak you (see the Route n° 2). The first replay is work of a stranger Austrian rope, while the first winter is worth of the two guides of the Aosta Town Franco Garda and Sergio Giometto in date January 20th, 1957 (sixth absolute ascension of the wall).* HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUEfrom the " Alpine Diary Ascents in Aosta Valley 1921-1933" of Amilcare Crétier, Edit Nuovi Sentieri with Section of the Verrès C.A.I. and of Verrès Library on July 1993: "... Left the shelter at 3 o'clock, me always only, dreaming, in before, we reach the first bergsrund at 9 o'clock. to the shelter... To the second terminal crevasse we reach 6.30 o'clock. ... To the first rocks we reach at 8.20 o'clock. ... Meanwhile the time has gone spoiling. In peak it already blows a few of snowstorm:... In the last 190-200 meters, to overcome the dome of alive ice, in the middle of the quess (= blizzard, note by author), me, in kind, I have to work a great deal with the ice axe Grivel, to cut: breadths and comforts stairs because any insurance is possible. I cut with a lot of a will, vigor and energy, and... Chabod, last, ago of the mathematical calculations on the probability of our fall, if he falls in a channel, rather than in the other, where it fights, where hope there is to arrive etc... Arrival, also benefiting me of a small longitudinal crevasse, on the crest at 10.55 o'clock. Is not seen anything... "
To attach at the base of the "nervature" of left overcoming a first bergsrunde, after a very steep initial frozen slope not (45°/48°) to reach a second of it; to climb the following slide of greater steepness (actually to 60° and over) bringing himself against the rocky rib that is undoubled to the base (possibility to find a lower case letter crack in the ice, very useful to do safety inserting you an only leg). Go up by solid granite and non difficult rocks (from II° as far as III°-), but often with "verglass" (III°+, in this situation) get out on N-NE Ridge about 90/100 meters from Summit (D+; best time: end June/July/August; 4h'00/6h'00, much variable in base of snowy conditions of the rocks).

4)- NW Face (By Mixed Route in left '58/'30): these three streets (see the Routes n° 4)-, n° 5)- and n° 6)-)) they are not very dissimular, even if the various combinations introduce and propose some interesting technical solutions, without a break. Very different street not from that of the '58; but while the mixed street n° 4 develop him more toward the left climbing, the others two are respectively held and progressively to the right. Go up side by side '58 route and not very distant from the by over mentioned route, but more in left bordering on the rocky rib of the Crétier Route (55°/65°; 1 ice screw Stubai); to insert im on this last in the final part with a rather delicate traverse through a short gully putting forward to very often iced ledge-slab. To overcome a brief cliff (III°+/IV° -; 2 rock nails: 4 meters) bringing herself on the 1930 street and they govern this to conclude for snowy of acute and small crest that "dies" on N-NE Crest.* HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE: slope realized in the '69 to avoid the rocks of the Crétier Route covered by dusty snow, after recent snowfall, and I return on this street in the final line for danger of slavine falling of badly in worse, because of an exit in the terminal part (70/80m) really very dangerous.
From the "Alpine Diary 1964-1969" of Ilario Antonio Garzotto (unpublished): " Saturday 21 to the of we bring us to the Rif. V. Undecided Emanuele on the to make himself. Time of the is not beautiful. After long discussions we decide to go on her "Crétier" Route of the Gran Paradiso NW Face ... We salt to the dark the long moraine that brings us to the beginning of the glacier. Here we tie us (Osva and I, Vito with Pino) And the dawn (4.30). We begin the crossing under the Wall N-or of the Gr. Paradiso. We easily overcome a of the seracs fall, thanks to the abundant snow. At 6'00 o'clock we are to the terminal one and we immediately attach ... Here however we labor to advance, since the rocks are with "verglass" and covers of snow. All of a sudden I have to overcome a small precipice to continue. Luckily we can make sure a lot of spikes good and to very solid nails. A sharp small crest of soft snow and a last slide of ice (1 ice nail, the only used) they bring out us (11.45). We wait for Vito and Pino that go out half hour after us. We go off some photos, we refresh there a short time and then (13.00) following the sharp small crest formed by the Walls Northwest and East of the G. Paradiso, brings us in peak (14.00).
You see various photos. (AD+/D -; pitons utilized 2 + 1 ice screw Stubai; best time: June/July; 5h'00/6h'00; 5h'45 in first ascent '69).

5)- NW Face (completely in ice): before slope of the wall completely in ice and also first really integral slope of the Face NW of the Gran Paradiso; he develops entirely in the frozen central sector of the same one, but it doesn't directly face the walls of ice or existing seracs and to the epoch really notable and consistent (also the equipment of the time would not have granted him if not with an artificial scaling to fury of nails and small "ladders" e, as it happened for the Street Chiara to the Ciarforon). The solution of the problem of this street (you see n° 8 Route) she will be resolved by the of Turin rope alone in 1978, thanks to the new technique of progression. * HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE After a try by a group of roped climbers Renato Chabod-Aldo Bonacossa on 1936, interrupted below the first serac for bad weather and ensuing return to hut. The rope composed by Corrado Bertolone-Franco Cappa-Gino Giorda is assumed so the worth of the first integral ascension of the wall, succeeding in the slope the 6 of Jul 1958. Considered for a long time and a simple variation, has amiss been climbed totally instead to itself separate and completely in ice from the base actually to the peak. The glacial structure of the epoch, well different from the actual one, it made rather besides her more binding than not how much him is nowadays; to it retries of this the first repetition of the guides Aosta Town Franco Garda-Sergio Giometto forced to camp out, cause the bad weather, and however happened in two days, 13 and the 14 Jul of the same year, already experienced of the wall having completed the first winter of it in the preceding year along her 1930 Crétier Route. Notable the first descent through ski happened Jul 13th, 1975 for worth of the High Adige Heini Holzel-Sieglinde Walzl-Helmuth Vitroler.
Go up nearby Crétier Route or Route n° 3)- on rocky "rabbing"; from and up stairs of the last and upper serac swerve to the right then the coach climbed the terminal part of the face directly to Summit (D+; best time: Jun/half Jul; 4h'00/6h'00, much variable).

6)- NW Face (By Mixed Route of right '61/'58): street combined that it faces faces under since in the first part the Diemberger/de Hesselle Route 1961 or Route n° 7)- to the superior serac in the line of triangular and terminal wall to conclude on the left with her Corrado Bertolone's and Company Route 1958 or Route n°5)-, near the Crest N-of it. * HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE From the " Alpine Diary 1964-2011" of Osvaldo Cardellina (unpublished): "... Three or non difficult four lengths of rope bring us behind the crevasse that limits the wall and that we find enough open, so much that we turn her on the right attaching so the direct variation Andreis-Chabod... then we arrest there under a serac and Renato it begins to chisel on the alive ice; for half hour rest alone in this small terrace dug in the ice... and scratching on the two anterior points of the crampons I rise to the left me with the spite in the right and the hammer; I so immediately understand because has had to labor and fatigue so much Renato to climb: the inclination wanders on the 60° - 65° and the hard ice has taken the place of the snow... From this point the wall discloses under its true face and the slopee to my feet it appears in all of its inclination... following the example of Roger and Renato, what time 80 ms. they climb more aloft among a whirl of snow. Above their heads 160 ms. it runs away more aloft the final crest... the continuous slope for the slide of ice between the big serac and the terraces rocks of the Crétier... I acknowledge me the steepness of the wall when it is my turn to extract the beak of the ice axe that she remains inserted being too much long; I am often me to be unbalanced out of the vertical one..." .
Accomplished slope chiseling ice-footholds about 80 meters in ice glass ("verglass"), by the side of and above the superior serac in the line of intersection among the Bertolone Route '58 and the Street Diemberger '61. To see various photographs extant (D+; ice nails or ice screws used Stubai: 3; recommended period: Jun/half Jul; 4h'30/6h'30, very varying).

7)- NW Wall (Direct Route or Kurt Diemberger Route): for better entirely specifying the evolution of the glacial routes on the Wall NW, as well as the attribution of a possible first directed slope is deserving of reading: * HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE" In 1961 the rope Diemberger (what we could follow with the binoculars in the superior half of the wall, from the Tramouail de Djuan) it reached the peak toward the 15, after to have followed an it. rather different from that Bertolone Route and so to have held a great deal more distant of the small crest of... aiming at the base of the superior hump (serac, remark by author), that coasted along then and it turned on the left (climbing). The rope Diemberger has not opened besides any new street on the wall, of which she has repeated... " (From the Guide of the Great Paradise in the Necklace Drives some Mountains of Italy, Edit Italian Alpine Club/Italian Touring Club, "GRAN PARADISO Parco Nazionale", to work of Emanuele Andreis-Renato Chabod e Mario Carlo Santi, over cited).
Similar route with 1958 route, but more in right. Go up side by side 1958 route or Route n° 5)-; hug a wall, but non overcome the two seracs of the ice wall, formed by middle serac and by that upper on terminal triangle of the face. Therefore for Kurt Diemberger and his company partially new route, but only most direct variation of the Bertolone and Company 1958 or n° 5)- Route (MD-; best time: Jun/half Jul; 4h'00/6h'00).

8)- NW Wall (Superdirect Route or Ugo Manera/P. Rossetti 1978 Route): it faces and it overcomes by and large directly the center of the street in her line inclination, also overcoming for the first time the central two walls of ice, however already meeting places to pronounced humps by a modern technique of "piolet-traction". In every case an ascension remains of "wrist" and as such he must be considered, implying a good preparation and a good technique of base. Dedicate to an energetic and a firm ice climbers. * HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE It is up to this of the Turin City rope the worth of the execution of the very Direct Route on the Wall NW overcoming both the seracs or, at least, what of it stays them from there. This street constitutes the final synthesis of the Route n° 5)-, of the Mixed Via n° 6)- of 1968, as well as of the presumed direct or Route n° 7 of 1961 from the Austrian rope. To tell the truth the two walls of ice, to the present dating, they were rather reduced in comparison to how much him were not in the past; to the beginning of the century they were even" resounding", as they show the photos in black and white of the epoch.
To surmount directly the two following seracs (remains, above all regard the lower), placed in centre of the icy wall by a technique of piolet-traction, these years typical and in continue evolution from the half of the Seventies. Interesting icy and hard ascent, but the seracs years and years in recession and more and more to retreat. As to Chiara Route in Ciarforon(3642m) North ice Wall (near and in South respect the Gran Paradiso and consisting with the same and nearby, even more and more in South, North Face of the Monciair Becca(3.544m)a interesting glacial trilogy for ice-climbers (all three routes through departure from Vittorio Emanuele I° Refuge). Itinerary that would seem destined to not more to exist in the future, the actual progressive and constant withdrawal of the ices persisting; is destined to inexorably non-existence (MD+; best time: end June/July/August/September, by tech. piolet-traction; 6h'00/7h'00, a lot variable second the icy conditions).

9)- NW Face (Glacial Variant of the Western Eperon/Spur): it constitutes a completely glacial variation to the Street E. Adami-P. Ceresa of the 15 Jul, 1935; it immediately goes up again the slant a left the smaller and shorter rocky ribs of the sector Southerner of the wall going out in her of over further quota 3882 meter and it continues toward him the of through of Peak W-NW Great Crest.* HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE Authors the climbers Luigi Cantono and Primo Momo on Aug 13 th, 1939 completely ascent by ice in the left (Northeast) of the rocky "nervation". An only results to have been repeated turned by the mountain climbers of Turin City Maria Celeste-Vally Viano-Ferdinando Bauchiero-Giovanni Miglio-Giorgio Viano, in June 12th, 1955 (to see the note/remark in Guide of the Italian Mounts "GRAN PARADISO Parco Nazionale", by Emanuele Andreis/Renato Chabod/Mario Carlo Santi, page 220; Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I., 1963 and 1980).
Begin in left side immediately in right (West) respect the number 8)- Route (1978 year) by the icy considerable and progressive slope (50°/55°/60°) more in Northern exposed therefore with, in late season, more frequently possibility of encounter with glacial difficulties, motive "verglass" presence extant. In final part to met a small rocks interrupted by a snowy ramp in diagonal left/right; through the same exit out on Great W-NW Ridge, large in this point. Alternatively ending about 50 meters more in high by the same granite rocks (See various pictures, with outline a schema).
Probably non repeated route (AD+/D-; best time: half-end Jun/Jul; 4h'00/5h'30).

9/10bis)- NW Wall (Variant "Endurance" Route or Gian Carlo Grassi/French Group 1977 Route): consisting to start on point more low of the face and at extreme left (Southwest) in quota about 3.400m, go up on the initial icy "slide" by a right little rocky rib; briefly climb by the same and cross left (NE) in ice wall, also to Variant n° 9)- of the 1939 year. Conclude, no as this up the Great Ridge W-NW, but continuing again through the wall more in left and to overcome the final part, by the triangular icy slope side by side and in right of the "Seracs Route" Manera/Rossetti 1978. Long, indirect, atypical and open street extremely probably to purpose of games and didactic. * HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE" ... and this way scoring the most long route into the face, by a beginning more and more in low ... ". Surely more repeated. (See Guide Italian Mounts "GRAN PARADISO" Parco Nazionale, by Emanuele Andreis/Renato Chabod/Mario Carlo Santi, page 220; Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I., 1980).
(D/D+; best time: half-end Jun/Jul; difference in level about 650m; 6h'00/8h'00; a certain amount of variability in conformity with conditions).

10)- NW Face (Western E'peron/Spur): it deals with the smallest of the two ribs that go down in parallel in the right sector of the wall; it slightly has origin above her quota 3.882m of the Great W-NW Crest, where this rooms to the Peak with an elegant snowy profile. Long around 180 scarce ms and of form semicircular, goes almost to lose herself with rocks more and more thinned in the basal frozen slide. Ascension of indifferent mixed ground not high with probabilities to meet of the "verglass." Along her more oriental side she has been open a completely glacial variation (you see Route n° 9), while another street crosses her for brief line (you see Route n° 9/10bis). * HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE Is the first ascent of the right sector of the NW Face; realized by the renowned of the Piedmont mountaineers Luigi Adami and Paolo Ceresa, on July 15th, 1935. An only results to have been repeated turned by the mountain climbers of Aosta Town Alessandro Casalegno and Maurizio Castellan, in July 1982.
To "attack" on right side of the face (terminal crevice large and difficult, year in year) and go up about 280 meters on ice by snowy slope to rocky ribbing upper regard the quota 3.882m. Climb by very steep rocks (hardly always with "verglass") and finish in quota about 3.900m; by the final part of the great Crest W-NW conclude to Summit (D; 4h'00; best time: July/half August; 6h'00, 7h'15 from bergsrunde to Summit in first ascent; more and more variable and same remarks of the previous routes).

11)- NW Face (Right Spur to Quota 3882m): according to great and more pronounced groin that descending by her quota 3882m of the Great W-NW Crest; the most elevated part is formed from a great pillar of reddish granite, tall over 200 ms; then the stumpy bastion grows thin going down for other 150 meters around, with more slender rocks and routs, itself in the initial frozen slide. Ascension lasts and complex for strong and well prepared mountain climbers. * HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE Difficult and hard ascent realized by seven ice climbers (the most well-known Ugo Manera of the Turin City) on June 23th, 1974. Surely the most binding street results from the technical side, on the Wall NW, even if at the same time it is the more short of it, "declining" to the quota 3.882 ms on the shoulder of the great Crest W-NW and therefore with exit to 180 ms from the Summit of the Gran Paradiso.
To start easily in right (West) of the precedent Route n° 10)- and go up left diagonal by snowy slope about 200 meters at base of the Red Spur, below the Quota 3882m. Climb with difficulty (III°/IV°/IV°+/V °-, two passages V°), by very good rock (granite). Through a last 40 meters in mixed ground (rocky-snowy-icy) and reach the route of the (see under) W-NW Great Crest (MD+; best time: July/August/September; 6h'00/8h'00; utilized 8 pitons).

12)- W-NW Great Ridge: great edge of right of the Wall NW, that seen by North appears in form of great eagle with the wing of left unfolded in direction of the Little Paradiso and that of right, note in matter, lowered above the two final tongues of the Glacier of Laveciaù. In effects, while the N-NE Crest is projected long toward North, the Great Crest W-NW it results end to himself, after a first air and snowy part, with a rocky triangle of red granite getting inside the aforesaid glacier to quota 3397m . Challenging, hard and long ascent to mountaineers splendid satisfaction. The route depending on conditions and, very often, to rely on NW Wall. * HISTORICAL NOTE AND TECHNIQUE: great ascension type classical, such not to have anything to envy NW of the Gran to the most famous Wall Paradiso. The first partial run was realized the 22 of August, 1884 from the mountain climbers E. Abbate-A Zoppi, with the guides G. Gadin-G. Melica: departing from the Shelter Emanuele the party reached the Peak employing around 7 hours. The same brought him to the attack with the same street of approach for the Wall NW surrendering her to 3.500m around, where this goes down on the glacier addressing herself to the itineraries of the wall; it went up again the tongue instead most southern of the same bringing herself toward the rocky clog of base 3.649m. It climbed therefore along the Wall SW of the granite triangle to go out as soon as above her quota 3.882m and to conclude with the Great Crest W-NW. This street doesn't result repeated (see Bollettino del C.A.I. XVIII° - Bulletin of the Italian Alpine Club XVIII°, pages 192/197). The integral run, departing from the base of the same to quota 3397m, he was realized by A. Treves-C. Zucconi, with the mountain guides of the Valsavarenvhe U. and E. Dayné in 12 hours from the shelter, but unprovided of crampons! (see the Rivista Mensile del C.A.I - RM or Monthly Review of the C.A.I. 1913, pagg. 4/9)The street was repeated by Camillo Bianco-Aldo Chabod-Emilio Parato later only 30 years, or the 18 August of 1942 and from little other ropes in the years to follow (see "GUIDA GRAN PARADISO Parco Nazionale"). It doesn't result yet crossed in winter. In more recent times the edge of right or South of the rocky triangle of base he has also been crossed with a modern and very binding slope from the of Piedmont mountain climbers, as well as brothers, Enrico Camanni-Mario Camanni, September 16th, 1978 (to see the magazine of mountain " Monti e Valli" 1979, 7, pages 20-21).
Start at the quota 3.397m passing the terminal crevice in the right; go up before by easy rocks, after more difficult to great crest, changed in robust rocky granite triangle. By hard passages (III°+/IV°-) reach a small snowy shoulder and on edge or doubling right join, at quota 3.887m, a second snowy shoulder with little rocky prominence. The final part is iced and merge into the NW Face (D-; best time: July/August/half September: 6h'00/9h'00).