How to Install an Exterior Wall Faucet

by Steve Hamilton

An extra faucet saves time and effort.

Many homes have an absolute minimum of exterior plumbing, with perhaps only one centrally located faucet. That's not necessarily a bad thing in areas with hard winters. In milder climates, it translates into an unnecessary struggle with long hoses and leaky diverters to water your lawn or garden. The simplest solution is to install another exterior wall faucet. For a bit more money, you can get a frost-proof model that you won't have to worry about should a rare cold snap hit.

1

Choose a location for the new faucet that provides an outdoor water supply convenient to your needs. Examine the house plumbing to determine the nearest cold water line to that location. Be prepared to compromise to give yourself adequate room for the necessary plumbing work. A water line in a heated basement or beneath a sink near an exterior wall is ideal.

2

Drill a hole in the exterior wall at the chosen location using a spade bit slightly larger than the diameter of the faucet tailpiece. Hold the drill at an angle so that the hole will tilt downward to the outside approximately 1/4 inch off level, to allow water to drain out of the installed faucet when it's turned off. Use a masonry bit if the wall is made of brick, cinder block, stucco or concrete.

3

Wrap three turns of plumber's sealing tape around the threads of the faucet tailpiece. Thread on the female iron pipe to copper sweat adapter. Hold the faucet securely with an adjustable wrench and use another wrench to tighten the adapter. Turn the adapter at least one-and-a-half full turns past hand tight.

4

Apply a bead of silicon caulk around the back of the faucet flange. Slip the faucet into the hole in the wall with the spout pointed downward. Use a shim if necessary to provide an even mounting surface. Attach the flange to the wall with screws. Drill pilot holes and use screw anchors on a masonry wall. Loosen the faucet packing nut and remove the valve stem from the faucet to avoid damaging the seals when soldering.

5

Hold the tee fitting up to the water supply line. Make two marks on the pipe to indicate cut lines, leaving enough pipe so that both ends will penetrate the tee 3/4 inch.

6

Turn off the water supply. Place a bucket underneath the pipe to catch leaks. Cut the pipe with a tubing cutter at the marks. Test fit the tee and leave it in place temporarily. Measure the distance between the tee fitting and the adapter threaded onto the faucet tailpiece. Transfer the measurement to a length of pipe and cut a piece that will fit between the tee and adapter. Test fit the pipe to ensure a smooth assembly.

7

Remove the piece of pipe and tee. Clean the outside of all four ends of the pipe and the inside of both the tee fitting and adapter with emory tape until the metal is bright and shiny. Apply soldering flux to all the ends of the pipe and the inside of the fitting and adapter. Assemble the pieces, making sure the pipe ends insert properly into the fittings.

8

Light the propane torch. Apply heat and solder each connection in turn. Wipe the joints with a damp rag after soldering to remove excess flux. Support the assembly with copper straps if necessary to provide stability.

9

Allow the assembly to cool before reinstalling the valve stem into the faucet. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks.

Things You Will Need

Power drill

Spade bit (or masonry bits)

Plumber's sealing tape

Female iron pipe to copper sweat adapter

Adjustable wrenches

Silicon caulk

Screws (with anchors for a masonry wall)

Copper tee fitting

Felt tip marker

Bucket

Tubing cutter

Tape measure

Copper pipe

Emory tape

Flux

Propane torch

Lead-free solder

Damp rag

Copper mounting straps (optional)

Tips

Frost-proof faucets are available with different length tailpieces to extend through various wall thicknesses.

Some frost-proof faucets have connections that can be soldered directly to the supply line. If you choose to solder the connection, you will have to cut or unsolder the faucet when a replacement is needed.

A hammer drill makes drilling through masonry faster and easier.

Warnings

Have a fire extinguisher nearby when using a propane torch.

Consult your regional building department before adding an outdoor faucet to make sure you comply with any local requirements.

In hard freeze areas, don't extend a supply line for a frost-proof faucet into an unheated space. Buy a faucet with a longer tailpiece, or install a regular faucet and plumb a drain valve for the line in the heated space instead.

About the Author

Steve Hamilton has been writing professionally since 1983. His credits include novels under the Dell imprint and for Harlequin Worldwide. A remodeling and repair specialist with over 20 years experience, he is also a Certified Pool Operator and holds an EPA Universal refrigerant certification.

Photo Credits

Have Feedback?

Thank you for providing feedback to our Editorial staff on this article. Please fill in the following information so we can alert the Home Guides editorial team about a factual or typographical error in this story. All Fields are required.