Begin the repair at the start of the curve

Photo 1: Saw the old edging

Saw through the edging after removing the soil and mulch on both sides. If the damage is on a curved area, cut farther back to where the edging runs straight so the newly installed piece can make a more natural, graceful
curve.

Photo 2: Cut the replacement piece

Prepare the new edging for installation. Cut the new piece long enough to lap onto the end of the curve (as shown in Photo 3), then prepare both ends by cutting and removing a 4-in. section of the top tube and bottom anchoring flange, leaving a 4-in. flap in
the middle.

Photo 3: Join the sections

Fasten the new section to the old one by first installing a 7-in. plastic connecting pin between the old and new tubular tops and drawing them tightly together. Drill four 1/8-in. holes near each corner of the overlap flap and
install 1/8-in.-dia. medium-length rivets.

Photo 4: Finish the splice

Mark the final cut on the old edging by pulling the new piece tightly around the curve, using the top tube as a guide. Insert the connecting pin, overlap the flap and rivet that end too. Backfill the trench
and restore the mulch and sod.

In your haste to finish mowing the lawn and get to the golf course, you mowed right over the plastic lawn edging and mangled it. To make matters worse, you inflicted the damage on a curve. You can't just splice in a little 12-in. piece—that would create a pointy little bulge. To restore the natural curve, you need to cut back and splice in a longer section of new edging to replace the existing border from the beginning to the end of the curve.

Note: Use this repair for all types of border edging.

Begin by laying the replacement edging flat in the sun to make it more pliable and relax the curve. Next, make the first saw cut through the old edging (Photo 1) at the beginning of the curve. Make just one cut for now. Cut the new edging long enough to extend past the damage and gracefully merge with the existing edging at the end of the curve.

Prepare both ends of the new edging as shown in Photo 2. After the first saw cut, butt the old and new pieces together and secure them with a connecting pin and rivets as shown in Photo 3. Finally, use the new edging as a guide for marking and cutting the old edging (Photo 4), then drill and rivet that joint like the first. (Avoid using a tape measure to measure the length for the new section because a metal tape can't accurately follow a curve.)

If necessary, pound spikes through the anchoring flange and into the ground to hold the edging in place.