send neil an email via the link on that page and find out when the next ones on.

the license for sprint days is $20 for the day or $55 for the year

in the sprint days youd start out in the noob group so everyone would be in the same boat, and only when you qualified higher would you move up into the faster groups.

Ahh so you don't have to maintain another license just for the odd bash, that's cool. It does say it's for social groups, does that mean they just wait until enough people show up or does it mean a group of mates/club? When you say you start out in the "noob" group, do you mean that first time people and veterans all on the track at once trying to set a good time...

Entry requirements are typically long sleeve clothing and Australian standards approved helmet. You will also require an AASA license (though you can just buy a single day license $20.

There will be other cars on the track but they release you in timed intervals and passing is usually kept to the straights i.e. no fighting for position through corners. Cars are also grouped into those of similar modification / lap times.

... in this sort of arrangement?

Is there any info on what your car must/mustn't have in order to go through scrutineering? Or is that something they'd send you if you email them? Obvious s*** like no dead bodies in the boot or crap tied to your roof racks, duh, but less obvious stuff like do you need to tape your headlights or have a 5 point harness, air filters boxed in, not open (although secured), etc.? It's a pretty long drive for me to get out there, be pretty pissed if I got out there and they told me to f*** off because they didn't like the colour of my shirt.

I'm not entirely sure I understand your questions, but ill give you some general info about the 2 different options you listed.

Breakfast events (also known as Happy Laps) are the cheapest way to get on the track. You don't need any special licenses, any particular clothing/helmets or safety equipment. They wont even do proper scrutineering, although if you have something obviously dangerous/wrong with your vehicle (such as leaving a thick trail of oil behind you) they wont let you on the track.

These sessions are not timed, and there is no 'racing'. Technically you are only supposed to pass people on the straights, and you are only supposed to be going around at a medium speed, though I haven't heard of anyone getting booted off for going too hard. If you do silly stuff like drifting, or racing people through corners, im sure they would boot you off. These days are limited to about 30 cars and all cars are on track at the same time.

Then there is TimeAttack or a QR Saturday Sprints / Wednesday Sprints day.

For these you need an AASA license, Neck to Wrist to Ankle clothing (ie full covering) and an approoved helmet. You don't need a harness or a roll cage, but your car will undergo scrutineering. Main thing they pick up on is a loose battery or unsecured items in the engine bay/car.

These days are usually 40 cars in 4 groups of 10. The groups are done in a way that the fastest cars are in Group A, and the slowest in Group D. The idea is that the cars on track at the same time are of a similar speed to minimize congestion. Overtaking is only supposed to be on the straights again. You normally get 4 sessions of 5 hot laps (+ 1 warmup/1 cooldown lap).

ah it hasn't really, it's got all the stock intake piping removed and custom piping right to the throttle and the gay engine cover removed, apart from that it's just intercooler, exhaust and coilovers really.

It's only running about 0.7 bar of boost because the ecu spazzes out if you try to run anymore

no they aren't applying the law to your car like cops when scrutineering, it's mainly looking for things that are blatantly unsafe like a battery not secured properly or something like a headlight not secured properly that could exit the car

i got pinged at one track day for having these slip on spacers on the rear of the r31 because i only had about half the thread of the nut on the stud, which looking back now was retarded haha

s*** that the cops don't actually look for instead would rather do you for pointless s*** like a pod filter not hard bolted down or your muffler is 5mm too low

don't stress about it unless you know your car is genuinely dodgy

the only restrictions i know of at timeattack.com days are in place to define what class you're in the for the point competition that Paul does

ie. race class, street class etc then i think there is sub classes under those for 2wd, awd and s***

if you run full proper race slicks you automatically go into the race class, same as if you don't run a full length exhaust

that all means nothing really unless you plan on going to quite a few in a year to try and compete in a class

Is there any info on what your car must/mustn't have in order to go through scrutineering? Or is that something they'd send you if you email them? Obvious s*** like no dead bodies in the boot or crap tied to your roof racks, duh, but less obvious stuff like do you need to tape your headlights or have a 5 point harness, air filters boxed in, not open (although secured), etc.? It's a pretty long drive for me to get out there, be pretty pissed if I got out there and they told me to f*** off because they didn't like the colour of my shirt.

there is a noise level limit, (it used to be about 100db) but that can differ from track to track (unless that has changed)

also, i remember there being a rule as to were the exhaust exits the car, (not before the rear wheel)

1. Nitrous prohibited.
2. Roll Cages are permitted in all classes.
3. The same driver must drive the same vehicle for the duration of the series. The combination of vehicle and driver shall collect points. If the driver purchases another vehicle in the same class then points can be transferred to the new vehicle. The driver must remain the same.
4. Modifications must not be made which reclassify the vehicle during the series. Points are not transferable between classes. If the car is modified and changes classification it will start again in the new classification with zero points.

Series Rules:

1. The series will consist of 5 rounds. 4 out of the 5 rounds will count towards your final result, with the worst round being dropped.
2. You must complete at least 3 rounds to qualify for a trophy at the end of the year.
3. At each round your best lap on the each track will be summed, and the lowest summed lap result will be used to determine points for the event.
4. You may attend morning, afternoon or all day to put down lap times that count towards the points for a given round.

Street Class:

1. The car must be a manufactured by a major manufacture. Not a kit car or custom race car.
2. The tyre tread wear rating must be 140 or above, and must be printed on the tyre.
3. The exhaust must be rear exiting with no screamer pipes.
4. The car must be road registered.
5. Must have OEM glass. This includes all windows in the car.
6. Must have OEM doors.
7. Must have OEM full dash. Additional aftermarket gauges are allowed.
8. Must have both front seats in the vehicle. (after market seats are allowed).
9. Removal of the back seats is permitted to allow for the fitment of a roll cage.
10. Must have full interior in the car. Not allowed to be stripped out. Boot liner can be removed.
11. Interior trim and carpet may be modified or removed to permit the fitment of a roll cage.
12. Must not have in cabin adjustable brake bias or aftermarket pedal box.
13. Must have engine as fitted by the manufacture (no engine conversions).
14. Adding forced induction to a naturally aspirated engine is not allowed.
15. Changing the boost level or turbo / super charger is allowed.
16. No aftermarket aerodynamic aids such as rear wings, splitters and diffusers. Basic air dams and small canards from body kits are acceptable.
17. Manufacture super cars shall be moved into performance class; such as Nissan R35 GTR, Porsche GT3. These will be on a case by case basis.

Performance Class:

1. The car must be a manufactured by a major manufacture. Not a kit car or custom race car.
2. The Tyres must be listed on the Tyre Register. If the tyres are not on the register they must be submitted for classification before the event.
3. The exhaust must be rear exiting with screamer pipes allowed.
4. The car must be road registerable (streetable car that could be registered). A purpose built race car with the correct tyres does not meet the Performance Class Requirement.
5. Must have OEM glass. This includes all windows in the car.
6. Must have OEM doors. The door trims and inner door skins can be removed. The structure must remain.
7. Must have both front seats (aftermarket seats allowed)
8. Must have basic dash in place. Full aftermarket instruments allowed.
9. Must have basic interior in the front half of the cabin (removal of carpet, stereo etc and liner allowed)
10. Must not have in cabin adjustable brake bias or aftermarket pedal box.

Outright Class:

1. This class is unrestricted, except as stated in the general Rules.
2. If the vehicle is an outright race car it will be moved to the next class. This will be on a case by case basis. A rule of thumb will be cars quicker than a 57:00 on the Sprint track.

Extreme Performance Class:
1. This class is unrestricted purpose built race car class, except as stated in the general Rules.

If there is a tie in points at the end of the year, the placing will be determined by the following rulings, in the given order.
1. Best single point score at a round.
2. Quickest Lap Result on the Sprint track.
3. Most attended rounds.

Rulings and Decisions:

1. The final classification of all cars will be at the discretion of the check in Mechanics. No discussion will be entered.
2. If you are unsure of something, check in advance.
3. The organiser's decision shall be final. No dispute shall be entered.
4. Time Attack management reserve the right to refuse entry to anyone, or ask anyone to leave an event without prior notice.

All in the name of fun really. Looking around 370kW ATW on pump so no slouch but I am not really interested in stripping interior etc to be competitive ... for now ... Also going for a pretty decent package for ride just deciding on suspension at the moment.

Looks like you'd be competing against me :) What car is it ? 370kw at the wheels is about on the money to be competitive in a ~1400-1500kg car.

I'm running about 450kwatw in a car that's around 1450kg (stripped out GTR with a roll cage).. i came 2nd in the series in 2009 running on 595RS-R's.. next year im hoping to get on the new Federal semi slick. Should chop a couple of seconds off.

pretty sure i rocked up and saved your s*** on the side of the road when we were driving back from QR because you couldn't do the nuts up properly on your dump pipe and it fell off your turbo remember maxey

pretty sure i rocked up and saved your s*** on the side of the road when we were driving back from QR because you couldn't do the nuts up properly on your dump pipe and it fell off your turbo remember maxey

Cool, I think I'm in "Street Class"
I do like this bit though:
16. No aftermarket aerodynamic aids such as rear wings, splitters and diffusers. Basic air dams and small canards from body kits are acceptable.
Mine's not aftermarket:

I did one of those V8 experience things and one of the things I hated about it was the fact that I didn't know the track or car so wasn't willing to push it, and didn't enjoy it as much as I might have. I think I'd like to do those "happy laps" first to get used to the track layout before trying for any kind of timed event.

4 door r33 the other day ... full roofracks, saggy rear suspension ...

I saw one with one of those bike racks on the back, with a mountain bike attached. I've often been at the hardware store and been so used to owning a work horse (HZ ute with carrying racks) that I often forget what I'm driving now and see a long plank of wood or length of tube & think to myself: "Is my wing strong enough to hold that?".

p.s Nov 23rd. LETS DO THIS.

Bit short on notice for me + my inlet pipe that goes from the turbo to the throttle body is held together with glue.

FYI, QR main track is being resurfaced as we speak (fixing bumps at last!). not meant to be up and going till mid December.

Yea they are letting some cars back on it week after next. Must be running a treaded semi slick (no slicks / half-grooved semi's allowed). I think the TimeAttack on the 23rd will be one of the first lot of cars on the track post resurface.

All I know was they were going to grind back the whole track till it was dead flat. Then resurface it with the correct racing tarmac. I think neil said the old track wasnt made from the stuff your ment to race on. And is not going to be a free drift day like last time to lay rubber on the new surface :(

For any drifters they are still running the new short track at the back so there is no down time.

The Nov 15 date has to be moved to WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 23 due to the race track resurfacing that is occurring the week before. I appologise for any inconvenience as I was only advised yesterday that our event should be moved to ensure we have a good day at the track.

Also I was advises that any cars running on slicks are not able to attend due to the softness of the new surface. They said that cars with slicks will not be able to race again until February next year. Treaded semi slicks are fine. Semi slicks that look like slicks with two grooves are not allowed.

If you have already booked in, please reconfirm the new date is still ok with you. If you have not booked in, please advise if you are coming at your earliest convenience.

Driver Training: The Afternoon Driver Training is all booked out. If you want a morning spot make sure you get booked in.

Does anything on the qld raceway site work? I just tried to email them about this stuff and it says the host name can't be found. What. None of the links are clickable, s*** can't be found, what the f*** goes on ffs.

Car got tuned today. Made 500hp @ 19 psi, but when we wound more boost into it, it would hit 25psi, but fall to 21psi by redline. Exhaust backpresure is 0psi, we have a 1 psi pressure drop across the intercooler, so no problem there, and we pressure tested the intake and didnt find any leaks. If we could hold 25psi to redline, we'd be putting out 550hp+.

Still the midrange is FAT as, car should go good. Looking forwards to next week.

Best strategy is to change your oil before every track day. Once the track day if over, you should be fine to leave that oil in there for street driving for a few thousand k's. If your doing oil changes every 5000ks, think of a track day as being worth 2000ks. So either change it after another 3000ks or right before the next time you take it to the track - whichever comes first.

I don't get why people just don't come out and drive the f***en thing.

Not enough notice to get time off work perhaps? That's why I'm not goin to this one.

How awesome of a driver are you that you'll break something, that probably was already on it's way out anyway?
Or do you think you're that fast that you'll come flying off turn 1?

No, I'm scared I'll be the slowest person there, look like a noob and get laughed off the track for being a poser :)

Also what are "the right clothes"? Does a flannel shirt and pair of jeans count or does it have to be a full on fireproof race suit? I also don't have ANY racing licenses so do I need one first, or do they just give you pointers on the day, you buy the day/yearly pass and go for broke?

I do like the rules though

Check that your helmet has the required safety stickers and has no cracks.
Check that your clothing is long sleeved, neck to wrist to ankle.
Check that your seat belts are secure and working correctly.
Check that your seats are secure. Check your fluid levels, and your engine for leaks.
Check your exhaust for smoke.
Check tyres are in good condition.
Check there are no loose items under the bonnet or in the cabin or boot (including unsecured video cameras).
Check that your battery is not loose. Preferably the terminals are not exposed.
Check all panel work is secured.
Check that your brake lights and indicators work.
Check your brakes work correclty and have good pad life remaining.
Check your windshield is secure and free of cracks.
Check your bonnet is secure.
Check your doors and side windows are secure. Check your wheel studs and nuts are secure.

ENSURE YOU HAVE YOUR TOW HOOK AND IT IS FITTED TO THE CAR AT THE TRACK.

How many people actually turn up with seats not bolted in and doors hanging off that they actually need to be rules? haha

Looks like someone has been smoked one too many times :P Try driving one past the limit and see how "that s*** drives itself" really helps you. When it bites, it bites hard but you gotta be pushing really really hard I'll be honest :)

How many people actually turn up with seats not bolted in and doors hanging off that they actually need to be rules? haha

You would be very surprised

A year ago I remember a guy in his VL rolled is car on turn one. He was ok just a few small cuts. When he got out of the car he smashed one of the only non broken windows he had with his helmet. He had thongs on and a roll cage that was just sitting unbolted to the car.

I have seen a few guys with two out of 4 bolts holding their after market seats in because the holes in the rail dont line up.

I don't get why people just don't come out and drive the f***en thing.

I would be more than happy to pilot a stock EVO or GTR.

I've done it before and it was fine and fun. Learnt a lot. (Except for the 32GTR, that was gay)

How awesome of a driver are you that you'll break something, that probably was already on it's way out anyway?
Or do you think you're that fast that you'll come flying off turn 1?

All you need is Fuel, the right clothes and helmet, a smile and some COMMON SENSE

i see where you are coming from, but doing a track day is pretty hard on the car, and if there are weak links anywhere, it will expose them. Things that might otherwise not give you a problem for years can fail due to the extremes that you put your car through. Its worth spending the time beforehand preparing the car properly to save you a lot of pain if something important brakes while you are racing.

Good to see you again niggy :) Hope you had fun in the morning. You missed some exciting stuff in the afternoon including someone hitting the wall just before Hungry. Put a fair sized dint in the armco, and car didn't look to good afterwards.

I putted around the track quietly during my first session, then opened it up a bit more in the second session. Started to get a feel for the track. Need to sort out my exhaust so i can come back and not worry about getting booted off.

Looks like someone has been smoked one too many times :P Try driving one past the limit and see how "that s*** drives itself" really helps you. When it bites, it bites hard but you gotta be pushing really really hard I'll be honest :)

I actually passed a yellow EVO 8 on track today in my civic, so meh.

I've driven enough to know what they are like. And I've seen people lose it in them, even once on a mountain. S*** was nasty.

EVO's are so good they make the average person look like a skilled driver.
Even more so on tricky roads, the cars' ability to respond so quickly and well to a command is truly amazing. The foresight and need to read a piece of road is then reduced when setting a medium pace.
If you drive past a cars limit, it will slip. But when the limit is so high in the case of EVO's. Then naturally the point of break will be violent and not forgiving. =\

That looks like a pain in the ass, being stuck behind that guy who goes faster on the straights, but you could take him on the corners easily.

On the subject of video cameras, do they have to be bolted on to something? I'm guessing a hero cam suction cupped to the window is definitely a no go?

my main thing is tyres, as i don't have a seperate set of tyres yet i'm not keen to go out and destroy my tyres on my daily rims

meh, road tyres usually don't last very long on any of my cars anyway. I reckon it'd be funny to put 4 space savers on one of those little 3 cylinder suzuki things & see how long they last :)

Even more so on tricky roads, the cars' ability to respond so quickly and well to a command is truly amazing. The foresight and need to read a piece of road is then reduced when setting a medium pace.
If you drive past a cars limit, it will slip. But when the limit is so high in the case of EVO's. Then naturally the point of break will be violent and not forgiving. =\

What about if you've unplugged the AYC gear? When I got mine I found some joker had unplugged it all because the diff was making squealing noises. All it needed was an oil change. Some people are so bloody useless @ cars. I actually drove it fairly hard without any AYC having a hand in things. It is an odd feeling when it kicks in though (compared to my old FWD), almost like it has a mind of its own. I'm not sure how I feel about that.

Ok so there is a delay with the track resurface.
Not a huge delay. They were putting a drainage pipe under the dipper but when they put the new surface over that drain pipe the road base sunk down a little. So they have to fix that part up.

Because of that no cars are allowed on till December. But I also found out they have put down concrete in run off areas where people tend to drop a tyre off the edge of the track.

i've heard that the actual surface isn't that great. They've gone for durability and longevity over grip. And now that they have sold off the land behind the race track to the council, there is basically no chance that its ever going to see any development/expansion. Still, lakeside was very entertaining, and Morgan park is supposed to be all kinds of awesome too (have watched a few races there, but never driven it).

Because of that no cars are allowed on till December. But I also found out they have put down concrete in run off areas where people tend to drop a tyre off the edge of the track.

Great for us drifters!

But then you can't dirt drop any more....
Which is what some of us do because we lack power or short shifted up a gear to have a bigger exit.

Man, dirty dropping was the s***.
Coming off turn 2 at the top of 4th, trying to hold the slide, you rip the hand brake on the transition and try to place your car at the top of the dipper.
If you get it right, you drop your back wheel off the edge with the hand brake up. The grass and dirt allows you to slide further than you normally would. Hectic feeling.