Feeds and speeds. The constant question that will never die. It's hard to answer this in a simple blog post. Don't take this as the end all, be all, but more of a starting or reference point.There's a whole lot of math that goes into finding the perfect feed and speeds. I'm not a mathmatician, but there are plenty of websites that will go into much more detail than I ever could, however the basic formula is chipload x cutting diameter x number of flutes x spindle speed = feed rate.The key to remember is that you want to make chips, not dust. Cutting will generate heat. You want to create as little heat as you can while going as fast as you can. It's a dance between not going so fast that you create a bit that gets so hot you cannot touch it. Larger chips pull away more heat, which means its easier on the tool and prolongs the life of the bit. If the bit is too hot to the touch, increase the feedrate or lower the speed dial on the router.The best way to dial in your settings is with trial and error.​Here's what I run my bits at currently in wood like mdf, pine, and birch plywood: (click to purchase)​For depth of cut (DOC) i typically do the diameter of the endmill per pass (1/4 endmill will go .25 depth per pass) in wood.

So you just installed a new wasteboard or you need to flatten your current one because its carved into way to much. In this blog post I'll walk you through just how to do it.When you first install your new wasteboard its important to flatten it. While the board my be visually flat, it will probably not be flat relative to the router. This is important because it will be different heights across the wasteboard. What could be 1 inch away from the router on the left side of the board could be 1 1/4 inches different on the right side. This is especially important when engraving or v carving fine details when the depth of cut is only 1/4 or less. It would end up cutting on one side and completely miss the board on the right. There are a few factors as to why it wont be perfectly flat to the router. The wasteboard thickness could be inconsistent from the factory, the machine could not be square, or you could have some sag in the span of the wasteboard.

I needed a mobile workbench for my heavy CNC machine. It's a shop build, so I don't want to spend a lot of time or money on it. I needed something quick and easy. I focused on making this build accessible to everyone's skill level and easy on the wallet. You could make this with only a drill and circular saw. I'll walk you through how to build it step by step. Total build time is around 1 hour. I built this to size specifically for my Carbide 3D Shapeoko XXL CNC machine, but you can put anything you'd like on it. It's perfect for the small shop where space is a premium.

So you just got a Shapeoko touch probe and love it. However, you have no clue where to store it. Unfortunately, when not in use, the touch probe and the alligator clip can be a burden finding a safe and secure place to store it where they won't be in the way of moving parts. This mount helps solve that problem. Its 3D printed from PLA material. It can be mounted with glue, double sided tape, or with a few screws through the flat part of the base.Check out my Etsy listing to buy your own.

I wanted to share with you the Amazon page of the tools i use and recommend in my workshop. Its filled with everything I use, from power tools, hand tools, CNC items to add-ons. I personally used each one of these products. If there is something not on the list that you think I should consider, please use the contact me page and let me know!Happy Making!-Ben