I have tried different subs in the WO32 and have not found one that I was totally impressed with. The best performing woofers were mid X-max woofers (8mm or less). They seem to have better sound quality than the ones with high X-max. Just my opinion. Hope it helps.

I'd really, really, really be afraid of using the KAPPA PRO-10A in a WO32, or any sub for that matter. The spec says "Usable Frequency Range 102Hz-2kHz ". Unless this is a misprint, it means that the KAPPA PRO-10A is not a sub or even a woofer but more of a pro audio mid woofer or even a midrange...bad choice for a WO32.

I like the specs on Steve's DHM108B (although there are a couple misprints there...xmax...0.39" is 9.9 mm and 5.5 mm is .22" don't know which is right, but I'd guess 5.5 mm, .22". Also Qts is wrong...should be Qes * Qms / Qes + Qms = 0.32 not 0.618). The specs on Steve's DHMPRO look even better. Also, don't forget to look at the 10" Series II from Parts Expresshttp://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-110

I agree with Dan on this one. The Kappa is prolly not going to give the results you want unless you are wanting a mid-bass oriented enclosure. My choices would go like: Steve's 10", Series II, Quatro, and maybe the Dayton Classic. If you want something besides Daytons, the Pioneers subs look good for the WO32. If you are going for a good audiophile sound check out the Madisound catalog. They offer a wide range of woofers and subwoofers to work with the WO32. Just my two cents.

I'm asking myself the same question. The only issue I have with Steve's driver is the frequency range only goes down to 35hz and I want to get down towards 20. For that reason I'm looking at the JL audio 10W6v2-D4 because the requency response: 23-250 Hz sensitivity: 83.7 dB. I know that's a lousy sensitivity number but I can drive it with a Keiga KGND-52100-SP 1000 Watt Digital Amplifier at 4 ohm since the JL will take 1200 w max at 4 ohms. I realize this runs contrary to the Decware focus on efficiency. My only question is are the JL subs as musical as I want them to be. I know they have a great reputation in the audio sound arena and some of their home audio stuff is supposed to sound great. I'm also looking at the HiVi SP10 10" Subwoofer it also is low efficiency and high power handling capability. Again I don't know about it's musicalliy. In the end I'll probably try both the JL Audio and the Decware components and sell the looser of the battle.

I don't think the JL Audio driver is a good choice, from what I've been reading due to the high Xmax and QTS. Did you use this driver and how did it turn out?

I've been searching for driver that has the similar parameters to the recommended driver, but goes lower without much luck. The closest I've found is the Dayton Audio NS270-44. It doesn't have a paper cone, but I'm not sure why that is recommended. It has a low end of 30HZ. I have an ART SLA4 that would be perfect to push this DVC driver. Anyone know if the NS270-44 would suitable?

It will be a while before I can start building, but will let you know the outcome when i get this project done.

*Also, I just wanted to point out that the Dayton Audio NS270-44 has a 1W/1M sensitivity of 87db, just in case you read the description that lists the SPL at 93db with 2.83 volts @ 1m think they call that the half-space sensitivity? not quite sure, will let someone else explain that one. Still probably would be a good choice.

I've ordered another matching Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer. I read somewhere in the forum that with this driver's aluminum <stiff> cone, one should mount a round patch of "pile" rug (speaker face diameter/rubber surround unincluded) directly opposite the driver (<1" away) in the far end of each tapered pipe horn. I wonder how deep should the rug pile be? I can easily find rug-tile sample/discards in the right size I'm sure. Working on keeping it simple with passive cross over to the sub @ 90 hz with possibly just a pair of coils. I'll have to test a few designs with my 6Ω Onkyo 2-ways - different topic perhaps "WO32 Passive Crossovers"

I used a square piece of wool felt opposite of the driver. I don't think it has to be round and have a huge pile to it. I made it the same size as the panel up and down and then stopped it half way down the horn path. Just make it bigger than the driver.