Left or right hand is determined by which side they are on in a twin carb setup. Its just a matter of where the float chamber is in relation to the carb body. They work exactly the same, one is just a mirror of the other. HOWEVER you'd need to look at the linkages. Carbs built specifically to be in pairs have different linkages to those that are intended to be singles, so you do need to watch out for that.

Early 70's Mokes had 1 1/4" (HS2) carbs but changed to 1 1/2" (HS4) in the mid 70s, when the engines were downsized and strangled with so-called emission control. When the carbs changed, the float chamber changed sides too. I don't know why, but perhaps it was so that something would fit a bit better. It means that if you fit a standard HS4 to an older Moke you have to re-route the fuel line to the other side, no big deal.

I think yours should have had an HS2 as standard, but there's no reason why you can't fit an HS4. Properly set up, it should give a small performance increase. You do need to make certain that your inlet manifold is correct, the mounting flange is different so an HS4 won't bolt on to an HS2 manifold.

You also have to work out what to do for an air cleaner. The standard filter is much bigger on the HS4 and goes around the top of the bell chamber. Later Mokes have a 'dent' in the firewall to allow the bigger air cleaner to fit. There is less room on an early Moke so sometimes that's an issue. I did manage to fit a late model aircleaner on my old Moke, but it chafed against the firewall. Something like a K&N conical filter might be worth considering, but I've never used one so can't be absolutely sure they'd fit. The abutment plate (the thing that the return spring hooks to) is different too. Some of the early cars just had a little tag on the exhaust manifold clamp, whereas there's a special plate for the HS4, that the spring hooks to and the air cleaner bolts on to as well.

The final issue is making certain that the carburettor is correctly set up. There's about 12 gazillion needles to choose from and getting the perfect one is very difficult. At least if you stick with the standard sized HS2, you can start with the factory needle. You still have to find someone who can tune an SU (its a dark art) but at least you have a starting point.

Good luck! Oh and you can't believe Minisport of they say a carburettor was 'original specification' they are talking about UK Minis, not Australian Mokes. The original carby should have a small triangular tab under one of the float chamber screws with a number on it like AUD123. That identifies the carby and can be used by an SU specialist to put together the exact replacement, not that it really matters.

Any sarcastic, ignorant, libellous, unfounded or stupid opinions expressed in or through this message are the opinions of the author and do not reflect the opinions or views of any member of The Mini Moke Club or the opinions or views of any other individual.

Any sarcastic, ignorant, libellous, unfounded or stupid opinions expressed in or through this message are the opinions of the author and do not reflect the opinions or views of any member of The Mini Moke Club or the opinions or views of any other individual.

The link I posted was to Burlen (A.K.A. sucarb.co.uk) in the UK. There is also SUMidel in Australia who have a very good reputation but are quite expensive, so in this case I would probably buy from the UK myself.

Tim

Any sarcastic, ignorant, libellous, unfounded or stupid opinions expressed in or through this message are the opinions of the author and do not reflect the opinions or views of any member of The Mini Moke Club or the opinions or views of any other individual.