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So I have an UMS5 and I'm working on a prototype that needs to be printed in Nylon (I think).

I'm looking for something heat (100 deg f) and salt water resistant that will get a bunch of direct sunlight, I figured Nylon might be a good solution.

I read that Nylon should be printed on a glue layer to keep from the nylon sticking to the glass an possibly causing chips in the glass?
I've found glue sticks messy to apply and hard to apply evenly.

I've previously used Aquanet/Hairspray on an older printer, but before I go spraying my beautiful glass bed with hairspray I thought I'd ask the forum if anyone's been using Hairspray instead of Glue with Nylon prints on their S5?

Any comments/feedback would be appreciated. Thanks for participating in the forum and helping the community as well as UM users like myself.

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So I have an UMS5 and I'm working on a prototype that needs to be printed in Nylon (I think).

I'm looking for something heat (100 deg f) and salt water resistant that will get a bunch of direct sunlight, I figured Nylon might be a good solution.

I read that Nylon should be printed on a glue layer to keep from the nylon sticking to the glass an possibly causing chips in the glass?
I've found glue sticks messy to apply and hard to apply evenly.

I've previously used Aquanet/Hairspray on an older printer, but before I go spraying my beautiful glass bed with hairspray I thought I'd ask the forum if anyone's been using Hairspray instead of Glue with Nylon prints on their S5?

Any comments/feedback would be appreciated. Thanks for participating in the forum and helping the community as well as UM users like myself.

DR

I can’t speak for others however, I use glue stick when needed and apply it to the glass and then I use a moist paper towel to evenly spread it around; no issues.

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I've seen a couple of your posts on the forum. You seem like a wealth of information and quite the crusader against the whole Aluminum Build Plate debacle. So let me make sure to say thanks!

Ok so now I have a followup question.

Are you using a glue stick with PLA as well. It seems that small prints in the center of the bed are fine, but today I did a big print using the whole with of the S5 build plate and I noticed one corner peeled up a bit (shrinkage/warping).

I didn't put anything down on the glass because most of my PLA prints stick to the heated bed just fine. Are people also using glue stick or hair spray prep for PLA and Tough PLA prints or just other materials like Nylon, CPE and ABS?

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The larger the print in X and Y, the more likely a corner will lift up. The sharper the corner, the more likely it will lift. I explain why in this video. I recommend some PVA for larger prints for Nylon. Alternatively you can print on a hotter print bed - 100C works fine - which makes the Nylon more flexible which distributes the lifting forces better. Or you can do all the suggestiosn in the video. It's kind of a lot to watch but I explain why and how and there's lots of useful details:

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I've seen a couple of your posts on the forum. You seem like a wealth of information and quite the crusader against the whole Aluminum Build Plate debacle. So let me make sure to say thanks!

Ok so now I have a followup question.

Are you using a glue stick with PLA as well. It seems that small prints in the center of the bed are fine, but today I did a big print using the whole with of the S5 build plate and I noticed one corner peeled up a bit (shrinkage/warping).

I didn't put anything down on the glass because most of my PLA prints stick to the heated bed just fine. Are people also using glue stick or hair spray prep for PLA and Tough PLA prints or just other materials like Nylon, CPE and ABS?

Thanks

DR

First of all; thank you for the kind words as I know it is a bit of a double edged sword when I make some of my posts; the bottom line; I care.

Now to your question; I too have printed much PLA without anything but a clean glass however, like you I too have been caught off guard when the occasional print lifts. As the result of this I prepare the glass “every time” thus insuring I have no adhesion related issues.

It only requires a modest amount of time and glue stick and then spread it as I shared earlier to afford me “peace of mind” knowing hours later that I will be happy rather than frustrated.

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I do the same as Shadowman: glue stick for Nylon directly on the glass, no glue for PLA but cleaning the glass every time.

The settings made by UM for UM-brand PLA should ensure you do not need glue. Though, as gr5 pointed out, sharp corners are more likely to peel off. You can remedy to that by using a brim or adding a one layer thick circle around the sharp edge in a 3D modeling program, if you don't want to have a brim all around the piece and save a bit on material.

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