If you have any hope of driving the latest motors in their full glory (by which I mean max'ed out potential) and at high native speed, I canÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t overstate how important it is to have a powerful controller in your electric bike. For my purpose here, I would choose the 24 FET controller from using the latest IRFB4115 MOSFET.

This is for a new, never used high voltage controller for racing in mind. It is originally designed people who have the gut for going above 60mph or 96.56kph.

There are other reasons for utilize the controller below:1. You want to give higher speed to your beefy and robust high torque low speed motors such as the Crystalyte 5306, 5305, 5304, 4011, 409, 408, BMC V2 Torque version, Nine Continent - 9C 2807, Golden Motor HBS36 series, etc.2. You have hub motors 20Ã¢â‚¬Â or smaller high torque wheels and need to find a way to boost significant speed3. You have a hall sensors added RC motor (Turnigy & Astro in this case) but want to take the advantage of higher RPM or to improve the gear ratios for more torque and/or speed4. You hate getting horned by cars behind you telling you to get out of their way5. You think high voltage is cool6. You want to horn cars in front of you telling them they are too slow7. You want a high voltage high speed controller in a small enclosure/chassis8. You want to win the Spooky Tooth Death Race and compete against gas engine cycles after all9. You want to combine your two 48v battery packs in series together for the high speed experience at 96v10. You want to combine your three 36v battery packs in series together for the even higher speed experience at 108v

Another unique feature of this controller is that it has an additional speed sensor circuitry built-in with an extra output lead/pin. It is to be used with the scooter style electric bike and electric scooters that have a speedometer in the dashboard that reads electrical pulses.

This version also uses lock washers to secure the MOSFET transistors internally and the heat transfer bar outside to place tension against a nut after tightening. It is also to help prevent the nut from loosening. The MOSFET transistors will get overheated and damaged when detached from the heat-sink which used to be the case from the previous designs.

By purchasing the controller, you understand the following:

1. Your electric bike may classify as a motorcycle class vehicle in most states2. Riding at high speed may not be legal on public road without proper driverÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s license and auto insurance.3. Risk of high voltage shock with improper high voltage batteries handling4. Safety wears is advised and may required in most states by law5. Typical bicycle cantilever, rim, and even disc brakes may not have sufficient stopping power6. Typical bicycle frames are not designed for high speed application7. Motorcycle class/training course(s) is highly recommended to ride safely at high speed

Note: Do not use a regular Cycle Analyst due to high voltage will destroy the internal circuitry. You should use the controller with the CA-LS model only.

This is a top of the line controller that comes with all the bells and whistles that are typical needed for the racing application including the CA connector, regen enable/disable jumper, USB-TTL plug, USB-TTL programming adapter with a push to send button and connector. Windows XP/Vista/7 32/64 bit operating system (real 32/64bit drivers). A special LVC calculation formula will be provided via PM or email upon purchase.

Below is the specification:Model: EC-244115-LYEN EDITIONStart immediate controllerChipset: XCKJ8B116A (same chipset being used as in the 18 FET controller)Circuit board version: Confidential24 x genuine IRFB 4115 MOSFET N-CH 150V (tested up to 150V before damage) for more information about the FET, click the link below:http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=IRFB4115PBF-ND)120V battery optimized (for higher or lower voltage & current such as 84V-132V, you may need to program the low voltage cutoff. Be aware the absolute battery topped off or fully charged voltage cannot exceed 150v)60A is the current rate (for higher current, you may need to beef up the trace, shunt, and reprogram it via the software)Low voltage cut-off at default: 95vBattery and motor phase wires gauge size: 10AWGDimension: 8" x5" x 2.75"( 250mm x 139mm x 69mm) plus mount extensionsTotal weight: 1595 gram (3lb 8oz)

I have only 20 made since I am busy working on my other ebike projects. My intention for selling at such low price is to share the fun with other ES forum members instead of making them jealous. I finally understand why Methods mentioned the cost of labor is steep after all this and I have to agree with him from now on. These controllers are not generic controllers. I have every single one serialized. Quantity is limited, buy it as soon as your piggy bank is filled up.

$349 USD free ground shipping in the United States & Canada. For other locations, please PM or email me at LYEN@HOTMAIL.COM. I accept PayPal, cash or money order. The controllers will be shipped out from me in San Francisco, California, USA. I will provide a tracking number and ship it out as soon as I have received the fund.

You may click on the PayPal Buy It Now link below. For accessories, please send money via PayPal or send me a private message for the total price. Thanks!

If you are not satisfy with the results or if it is too fast for you, you may send it back to me within 30 days in an unmodified condition.Update as March 21st, 2015Quantity updated as of 9/29/2013 : 19 left (buyer bought 1 from Linz, Austria )Quantity updated as of 9/30/2013 : 18 left (buyer bought 1 from Oslo, Norway )Quantity updated as of 11/7/2013 : 17 left (buyer bought 1 from Hartford, WI, United States )Quantity updated as of 12/1/2013 : 16 left (buyer bought 1 from San Francisco, CA, United States )Quantity updated as of 1/10/2014 : 15 left (buyer bought 1 from Dover, NJ, United States )Quantity updated as of 1/27/2014 : 14 left (buyer bought 1 from Ocoee, FL, United States )Quantity updated as of 2/11/2014 : 13 left (buyer bought 1 from Kharkov, Kharkovskaya obl., Ukraine )Quantity updated as of 3/12/2014 : 11 left (buyer bought 2 from Eschenz, Switzerland )Quantity updated as of 5/5/2014 : 10 left (buyer bought 1 from Heddesheim, Germany )Quantity updated as of 10/30/2014 : 8 left (buyer bought 2 from Werndorf, Austria )Quantity updated as of 11/14/2014 : 7 left (buyer bought 1 from Dachau, Germany )Quantity updated as of 11/23/2014 : 6 left (buyer bought 1 from breal sous montfort, France )Quantity updated as of 11/26/2014 : 5 left (buyer bought 1 from Dachau, Germany )Quantity updated as of 2/11/2015 : 4 left (buyer bought 1 from Laurinburg, NC, United States )Quantity updated as of 3/17/2015 : 3 left (buyer bought 1 from Temple City, CA, United States )

I have recently noticed there is a couple of competitors who are bad mouthing the high voltage controllers I sell will fail. They are making false statement to lurk potential buyers toward them. I am usually peaceful and quiet until now due to unfair statement made by competitors. I will try not to mention their names to avoid starting fires here.

Update as of August 4th, 2010, the bad wording from that seller has been removed with the help of the forum moderators including Ypedal and other respective forum members. I really appreciate your help.

Your Truly,Edward Lyen

Last edited by Lyen on Sun Aug 08, 2010 7:52 am, edited 5 times in total.

ok.. the controller vendor wars will be comming to a hard stop ...... i don't know who's right and who's wrong here.. but i started a thread in the mod forum to discuss solutions...... this is totally un-cool for members/vendors to bash eachother............ more to come shortly.

Ypedal wrote:ok.. the controller vendor wars will be comming to a hard stop ...... i don't know who's right and who's wrong here.. but i started a thread in the mod forum to discuss solutions...... this is totally un-cool for members/vendors to bash eachother............ more to come shortly.

I don't know if it is right or wrong for people to "bash" each other......but I will say this: the "Bashing" does help create interest and arouse curiosity. It might scare some people off, people who are probably too sensitive to be online in the first instance. But it also helps us to air issues and resolve differences, be they professional, personal etc.

In the meantime, I have bought from Lyen. I don't know if his controller is perfect, I don't know how long it will last. It is impossible to say because as SteveO says, it can take months for the damage to manifest itself, that is if it even manifests itself at all.

Lyen allowed me to make part payments over a period of time and then did me a massive favour by taking delivery of some nickel tabs from MTO Corp, and in doing so saved me at least $100.

He then sent the entire package of controller and tabs from the State of California to Ireland, and he did this BEFORE I had paid him for delivery. I paid him after he had shipped it. It took less than a week. I could not ask for more.

Lyen has great communication and is honest.

I don't know about resistors, or burnt offerings, or browned this or marinated the other........all I know is that in any deal, honesty is the starting point. Lyen is honest.

do you have still the 36 mosfet PCB (Board) or Controller? Doctorbass wrote in his thread, its possible to get it from you.

What size have the Rubicon MXR 200V, 470Âµf caps ? 22mm dia, 10mm lead spacing snap in case or 18mm dia , 7.5mm lead spacing ? What is the maximum diameter of caps fiting on the 36 mosfet and 24 fet PCB ? What is the lead spacing on the 36 mosfet and 24 fet PCB ?

Thanks for your interest in the controller circuit boards and controllers. PM sent.

Best Regards,Edward Lyen

sharadona wrote:Hello Lyen,

do you have still the 36 mosfet PCB (Board) or Controller? Doctorbass wrote in his thread, its possible to get it from you.

What size have the Rubicon MXR 200V, 470Âµf caps ? 22mm dia, 10mm lead spacing snap in case or 18mm dia , 7.5mm lead spacing ? What is the maximum diameter of caps fiting on the 36 mosfet and 24 fet PCB ? What is the lead spacing on the 36 mosfet and 24 fet PCB ?

Those are the recommended ratings, but if you know what you are doing you can push them harder. I'm pushing 7500W 125V*60A with my 18 FET 4115 controller.

I will tell you that you should not get close to the ABS max rating of the FETs due to spikes. Stick with 30-32S on a 150V controller for 126-134V. I haven't tried turning the amps up on mine much yet and the highest peak I saw was in the low 70's, but I have my block time set to 0.1S. It is absolutely critical to run as low a block time as possible on controllers running these FET's or you can kiss them good bye. In my thread I also provided several data points since I am logging my FET case temps.

I think my 18 FET will be good for around 80 continuous amps safely(it won't even get warm at 61A draw purposely abusing it and is programmed for 47A but the shunt is only around 1.24mOhm so it's off by a factor of 1.29), but I've modded it quite a bit and it could still use some improvements and always more testing. When my Croatian Hubzilla gets installed I will start to slowly up the current to see how the FET's do temp wise. I'm calling 100C my cut off point for FET temps because at 100C they only handle 71A each in perfect conditions Hottest I've gone so far is 57C abusing regen with lots of stops and starts and immediately into regen, but it's only 18C outside and my 9c 2806 get's warm pretty quick at this power level.

Got a few more simple tricks to try though such as mounting the spreader bar with more even pressure using more screws at the top and also adding small fans to create a cross flow. With a 24 FET I think could probably manage 120A continuous with some changes made. I have a spare 18FET board on the way in case I accidentally pop this one while trying to go gonzo with it.

on my 5304, I was seeing peaks of 125 amps and 70 plus for 30 seconds or more..the closest I can get to continuous over here on our island roads...but I think the CA shunt value of th eLyen controlleer is out..a CA-SA was reading about 105 peaks with block time set at 1 second.This is on a 24 series pack with 18 FET 4110 65 amp Lyen controller

I know the voltage is higher to higher wattage for lower current,...but I am a bit disappointed to see lower amps with a 24 FET than I get with my 18 FET..also I know I am comparing 4110 18 FET with 4115 24 FET ...so maybe I am just pushing my 18 Fet 4110 too hard and just got lucky..or maybe you are not pushing your hard enough

Only Irish coffee provides in a glass all four essential food groups: alcohol, caffeine, sugar, and fat

Pushing it all depends on your setup and terrain. Me and bike weigh 115kg total but I use 20 inch wheels which get me into efficient zone much faster. In a 26 inch wheel this controller might be dead motor would be for sure. Always better to volt up and gear down if you want high speed. Also remember. No block time allowed! I try to think of my 18 fet 4115 controller like a modded out 12 fet controller. Im guessing my Max amps will be right around 100 continuous but don't want to hold it for longer than needed. It's why I installed a temp probe on the fets. If I ever see 90c and it still climbing. Its time to stop. I think the 24 fet model would be a monster with the mods I've done and more capacitance like markcycle did.

I am sure we can talk figures all day, but in the end, I am sure to see an increase in performance, what ever figures we come up with Even if current stays the same as the 18 FET 4110 controller, due more mosfets all running less current, I will have a 30% increase in voltage, and from what Lyen says, rhe 5404 is more efficient

As for wheel size, I have just found a 21 inch motorcycle wheel that is wroughly equivalent to a 26 inch MTB wheel/ tyreThe thought of now having to find yet another m/c wheel to go smaller, is not one I relish

Only Irish coffee provides in a glass all four essential food groups: alcohol, caffeine, sugar, and fat

NeilP wrote:I am sure we can talk figures all day, but in the end, I am sure to see an increase in performance, what ever figures we come up with Even if current stays the same as the 18 FET 4110 controller, due more mosfets all running less current, I will have a 30% increase in voltage, and from what Lyen says, rhe 5404 is more efficient

As for wheel size, I have just found a 21 inch motorcycle wheel that is wroughly equivalent to a 26 inch MTB wheel/ tyreThe thought of now having to find yet another m/c wheel to go smaller, is not one I relish

Small wheels + high voltage = wicked fun Totally worth the change if you are a street rider and your frame will support it. If not 20" then 24" is the next best size.

I have to mod the frame anyway to take the 150mm axle and make torque clamps in the frame..so dropping the mounting point to under the rear triangle and using a smaller wheel would not be an issue..Just the issue of finding a smaller wheel then..But a smaller diameter is going to give a lower top speed?...or does the different gearing mean that a higher RPM is achieved? and top speed stays the same?

Only Irish coffee provides in a glass all four essential food groups: alcohol, caffeine, sugar, and fat

NeilP wrote:I have to mod the frame anyway to take the 150mm axle and make torque clamps in the frame..so dropping the mounting point to under the rear triangle and using a smaller wheel would not be an issue..Just the issue of finding a smaller wheel then..But a smaller diameter is going to give a lower top speed?...or does the different gearing mean that a higher RPM is achieved? and top speed stays the same?

Depends on the setup, but usually a smaller wheel means a little less top speed but the trade off is higher efficiency and more torque/acceleration. Run a similar on your setup going 26 to 24 isn't much of a difference top speed wise. On some really fast motors that want lots of amps a smaller wheel will give you a higher top speed. This is where playing with the Ebikes.CA sim comes in handy. You need to be sure that in all high speed high load conditions you are past the belt point or your controller will be getting a major work out. That means being able to suppply more amps than required. I figure 25% more than the bemf point minimum on level ground at speed to be safe. Helps the controller live especially if you are in hilly terrain. Don't you have a reputation for killing controllers already?

I'm a big fan of small wheels on bikes that mainly stay on road, haven't tried off-road yet.