Notes:
* ch 1 at the beginning of the row does not count as a stitch
* I don’t make a hole in the pattern for the tie to feed through because I feel like there’s enough space between stitches to do this.
* Gauge – 9 rows & 12 stitches – roughly 4″
* When you are going to do the hdc-ch1-hdc, you skip the first hdc, then hdc-ch1-hdc in the ch1 space, then hdc in the next hdc. If you don’t skip the first hdc, you’re going to end up with waaaayyyyy too many stitches.

Yolk:

Ch 31Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc across (30)Row 2: Ch 1, 2hdc in first stitch, hdc-ch1-hdc in 2nd stitch, hdc in next 7 , hdc-ch1-hdc in next, hdc in next 10 , hdc-ch1-hdc, hdc in next 7 , hdc-ch1-hdc in 2nd last stitch, 2hdc in last stitch (36)Row 3-13: ch 1, 2hdc in first stitch, *hdc up until ch 1, hdc-ch1-hdc in the ch 1 space*, repeat until last stitch, 2hdc in last stitch (increasing by 6 each row)

Attach a contrast colour to the end of a sleeve and sc around. Slip stitch to first stitch. Fasten off & weave in ends. Repeat on other sleeve.

Attach yarn to one corner.

Ch 1, Sc around front of kimono. When you reach the next corner, chain 30, slip stitch back along the chain (this is your first tie). Continue with sc along back of sweater. When you come to the other corner (where you started), chain 30, slip stitch back along the chain, slip stitch to first chain. Fasten off and weave in ends.

You will still need to make the ties on the sides. I don’t make a hole in which to thread the ties through because I find that I have enough room with hdc stitch. I thread the tie through one side and then attach the contrasting yarn at that stitch, chain 30, slip stitch back, slip stitch to attachment and fasten off.

For the opposite side you can eyeball it to determine where the tie will sit.

And voila! Kimono!

I kindly ask that you give me credit if you use my pattern and that you don’t use my pattern as your own.