Both the classics and the 'New Krug Cuisine' dishes are simple and tasty, based on regional and seasonal produce. Try the handmade sour milk cheesecake with mustard seed cherries or the lettuce in a green sauce vinaigrette, accompanied by a good Rheingau wine. The themed rooms in the historic town hall are classy, modern and spacious; the traditional wine bar rooms are somewhat simpler.

In mid-winter at least, impression of pushing the door onto a Holbein painting; dark rich Tudor mood hostelry a stones throw from Germany's longest river. A light pleasant budget midday menu, which frankly might be quotidian on the opposite riverbank, with a simplistic beef-broth starter, and very un-Tudor as to quantity. In this wealthy discreet Rhineland where Porsche and wild-boar ply immutable Riesling slopes, the serious denizen eaters, one bearing a remarkable likeness to rude Henery himself, dove into the latter hearty karte pages, which must be testimony to merit over outlay.

Cons

A nouvelle Tudor cuisine trying a little too hard to keep one foot either side of the Rhine. Slight rift in culinary identity, but a recommendable experience nonetheless.