Dsquared²

The rampant campology of Dean and Dan Caten descended on the school system today. The dart-throwing, spitballing antics of their remedial classroom full of pulchritudinous bad apples put one in mind of the old battle cry, "If you think education is expensive, try ignorance."

In other words, the first impression was slightly here-we-go-again with the Caten bad-boy shtick

And then, quelle surprise! The twins took their students in hand and marched a tightly focused, expertly realized collection of contemporary sportswear down their catwalk. In a way, it was nothing they haven't done before, but there was something so tight about this particular offering that it compelled focus on the clothes, rather than the showmanship. The militarily precise navy pants, the peacoat, the camel, the shearling, the leather blouson, offered one more take on classics that were all too familiar following show after show of them in the past few days, but they had a razor-sharp polish. Even the showpieces—a parka and a denim jacket whose sleeves were laden with heavy metal—were convincing in context. Maybe that's what happens when you play the Monkees' (I'm Not Your) Steppin' Stone in your show. The only way is up.