Fein is simply crazy expensive. I looked at their routers over the
weekend. I wasn't impressed, for 4X what a Bosch or PC costs. Bosch
has a "Multi-Master type tool ("Multi-X", I think) that's a lot
cheaper and looks just as good (Li-Ion battery, though). A little
lower down the line, Dremmel has a copy for $100ish. If you want to
go cheap, HarborFreight has one for $40. The reports are decent,
acknowledging that it's a $40 tool. The only real complaint is that
the blades loosen.

But it's ugly orange. ;-) I think I'll spring for the Bosch. I want
to rip up some bamboo flooring and inlay a hearth in front of our
fireplace. I can't figure out another way to make the cuts against
the wall.

I now have seven cordless drills (will likely give one to my son). I
just bought a little Bosch 12V Li-Ion to match the impact driver. 100
years ago a cordless drill was a brace and bit. ;-)

Look at the bright side: It could be worse. My Chinese meters here are
bonbon-purple. Channel 3 on my DSO is bonbon-pink.

I am very impressed with the little Durafix single Li-Ion pistol-style
electric screwdriver. $15. We had to build a large step box for our
Rottie because he has trouble getting in and out of the car. The long
deck screws were hard to turn but it muscled them in. Sure saved me a
blister.

That's what impressed me, getting the really long Phillips-head deck
screws almost all the way into a 4 by 4 without chewing up the head is
something I thought wasn't possible with one of those little things. The
screws let of a loud squeal as they went in.

There is one tool from Bosch I really love: My Bosch Bulldog rotary
hammer. When I use it as a jackhammer it sure sends the stuff flying.

Use parafin (AKA Canning Wax) on the threads and they will go in
easier. Then the hot sun melts the wax so that it soaks into the wood,
and doesn't affect the holding power of the deck screws. Also, it
doesn't hurt to drill a small pilot hole through the top piece of wood.

Depending on the screws and use, liquid soap works better. Parafin
can keep stain from penetrating. Soap washes away, though some can
damage cheap screws.

If that's the concern, the top piece should be drilled to the same
size as the screw shank (perhaps a *little* smaller). The pilot hole
should go the length of the screw, though in the bottom piece it
should be the size of the thread bottoms. Pilot drills do this, with
a countersink, to the right size all in one swell foop.

We still used those back in industrial arts class in the mid-'80s since they
didn't have enough electric drills to go around. (I imagine they'd had them
for decades!)

We had pretty good instructors... of the many demos they gave, I remember one
where the guy said, "You want to know the difference between this cheap Black
& Decker power drill here and this much-more-expensive Milwaukee? Watch
this?" -- Guy wraps his hand around the chuck on the B&D, hits the trigger
with his other hand and... chuck doesn't turn, the drill just sitting them
humming a bit. "Don't try this with the Milwaukee!"

Cordless. 12V Li-Ion, that matches three of my drivers and drills.
;-)

We didn't have electric drills in shop. I *hated* shop.

I've sprained a wrist driving screws. A good driver has a *lot* of
torque. OTOH, I have a 3/8" air wrench that I think I could stop. I
bought a 1/2" impact wrench that I could stop by hand with a 1" socket
installed. It went back.