Shark finless soup touted by chefs

Published 4:00 am, Friday, May 6, 2011

Photo: Lea Suzuki, The Chronicle

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benu chef de partie Emma Emmanuelle prepares a shark fin alternative created by benu owner and chef, Corey Lee (not shown), in the kitchen at benu in San Francisco, Calif., Friday, May 6, 2011.
Modern-American restaurant Benu in San Francisco started serving "shark fin soup" in August and has kept it on the tasting menu ever since. Jelling agents mimic the brittle and elastic texture of shark fin.
"Shark fin is all about the soup itÍs cooked in; the shark has no taste," said owner and chef Corey Lee. "Certainly by looking at this alternative, you canÍt tell the difference." less

benu chef de partie Emma Emmanuelle prepares a shark fin alternative created by benu owner and chef, Corey Lee (not shown), in the kitchen at benu in San Francisco, Calif., Friday, May 6, 2011.
Modern-American ... more

Photo: Lea Suzuki, The Chronicle

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David Contois, Wildaid communications manager, removes a sign after a press conference on AB 376, which will ban sale, possession and trade in shark fins, in San Francisco, Calif., Friday, May 6, 2011.

David Contois, Wildaid communications manager, removes a sign after a press conference on AB 376, which will ban sale, possession and trade in shark fins, in San Francisco, Calif., Friday, May 6, 2011.

Photo: Lea Suzuki, The Chronicle

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benu owner and chef Corey Lee makes foie gras xiao long bao in the kitchen at his restaurant, benu, in San Francisco, Calif., Friday, May 6, 2011.
Modern-American restaurant Benu in San Francisco started serving "shark fin soup" in August and has kept it on the tasting menu ever since. Jelling agents mimic the brittle and elastic texture of shark fin.
"Shark fin is all about the soup itês cooked in; the shark has no taste," said owner and chef Corey Lee. "Certainly by looking at this alternative, you canêt tell the difference." less

benu owner and chef Corey Lee makes foie gras xiao long bao in the kitchen at his restaurant, benu, in San Francisco, Calif., Friday, May 6, 2011.
Modern-American restaurant Benu in San Francisco started ... more

Photo: Lea Suzuki, The Chronicle

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Hong Kong actress Sharon Kwok (right) speaks during a press conference on AB 376, which will ban sale, possession and trade in shark fins, in San Francisco, Calif., Friday, May 6, 2011.

Hong Kong actress Sharon Kwok (right) speaks during a press conference on AB 376, which will ban sale, possession and trade in shark fins, in San Francisco, Calif., Friday, May 6, 2011.

Photo: Lea Suzuki, The Chronicle

Shark finless soup touted by chefs

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A bevy of local chefs joined environmentalists and public officials Friday in an effort to convince the Chinese community that a proposed ban on shark fin soup isn't an attack on their cultural heritage.

Since Assemblymen Paul Fong, D-Cupertino, and Jared Huffman, D-San Rafael, introduced AB376 in February, Chinese Americans, who see shark fin soup as an important part of their traditional cuisine, have emerged as the main opponents of the legislation.

But the chefs who joined the event held at the Omni Hotel in San Francisco argued that shark fin soup doesn't always need a shark fin.

Many said they are creating pseudo shark fin soup recipes using such substitutes as thinly sliced sea cucumber or braised abalone.

Modern American restaurant Benu in San Francisco started serving "shark fin soup" in August and has kept it on the tasting menu ever since. A gel made from the soup mimics the brittle and elastic texture of shark fin.

"The flavor of shark fin is all about the soup it's cooked in. The shark has no taste," said owner and chef Corey Lee. "Certainly by looking at this alternative, you can't tell the difference."

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But the chefs admitted that a total ban on shark fin is the only way to keep it from being served at many restaurants.

Alexander Ong, owner and executive chef of the Pan-Asian restaurant Betelnut in San Francisco, said he backed the proposed ban because shark fin soup is "deeply rooted in the culture" and without the proposed legislation, it would be difficult to persuade restaurants to keep it off their menus.

A new poll, however, shows that a surprising number of Chinese American voters back the ban.

Commissioned by the Monterey Bay Aquarium, the poll found that 76 percent of California voters favor making it illegal to sell or distribute shark fins. The real surprise, though, was that 70 percent of the 218 Chinese American voters surveyed favored a ban, said Michael Sutton, the aquarium's vice president and a supporter of the legislation.

"Chinese Americans feel no different than the rest of the community," he said. "This is a bipartisan issue - men and women, liberals and conservatives, all generations, voice concern for shark finning."

Environmentalists argue that the world's growing appetite for shark fin soup, an expensive delicacy, is threatening the future of many species of sharks. In too many cases, they say, fishermen practice the "finning" technique, in which they catch or net the sharks, chop off the fin and toss the shark's bleeding body back into the ocean.

The results did not sit well with Union City resident Bowie Lee. More people should have been surveyed, she said, complaining that the push to ban the shark fin trade has created "a bad image" of Chinese Americans.

"It correlates cruelty to Chinese Americans and their eating habits and culture," the 40-year-old from Hong Kong said. "That is not right."

San Francisco Mayor Ed Lee and state Sen. Leland Yee, D-San Francisco, who both oppose a ban on the shark fin trade, could not be reached for comment on whether the poll result has swayed their stance.

Fong has until June 3 to bring his bill to the Assembly floor and is considering amendments that would give merchants time to get rid of their inventory.

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