Salmon in the pink

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Pink salmon doesn't have the stunning red colour of sockeye, or the full, rich flavour of spring salmon, but its budget-friendly price, delicate taste and texture and culinary flexibility make it a worthy catch to cook into something tasty to eat.

Pink salmon is called "pink" because under its silvery grey skin is a flesh that ranges from light pink to a deeper rose.

In summer months, during fishing season, you'll see this Pacific Ocean-caught salmon for sale. Whole pink salmon are usually sold gutted, often with the head removed. You'll also sometimes see fresh pink salmon fillets, steaks or chunks (larger, roasting-sized pieces of fish) for sale.

Pink salmon range in size from one kilogram to just under three kilograms. Because of this salmon's smaller size, it's great for cooking whole -- steaming, poaching, roasting or barbecuing it in foil or on a wooden plank.

In all situations, the fish will cook in about 25 to 30 minutes, depending on its weight and thickness.

The old fisherman's rule of thumb is to allow 10 minutes of cooking time per inch of thickness, measuring the fish at the thickest point when it's lying flat on a work surface. This method seems to work, but, of course, the temperature the fish is cooked at will determine the exact time.

You can tell if the fish is cooked if you press on it with your finger at its thickest point. If the fish feels soft and spongy, you know it is not cooked through. If it feels firm, with a tiny bit of give, it should be ready. If the fish feels really firm and the skin and flesh are pulling apart, you know the fish is overcooked. The touch method can also be used to judge when fish fillets or steaks are done.

Yet another way to tell if your salmon is cooked is to insert an instant-read thermometer into a thick part of the flesh. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration suggests that cooked fish should reach an internal temperature of 63°C (145°F).

When buying fresh, whole pink salmon, look for vibrant, shiny fish without any soft or sunken spots. Fresh pink salmon will have a mild, sea-like aroma, not a strong fishy one, a sign the fish has being sitting around too long. When purchasing fillets and steaks, choose those with firm, translucent, bright-looking flesh and a similar aroma.

For maximum freshness, it's best to buy fresh salmon the day you'll eat it, but if very fresh, it can be stored in the coldest part of your refrigerator, one a tray of ice, for a day, or maybe two.

Sometimes I buy whole pink salmon when it's on sale and freeze it for later use.

I start by lining a large baking sheet with parchment paper. I then rinse the fish well in cold water and set it on the baking sheet, leaving any excess water on the skin. I place the fish in the freezer, uncovered, until frozen solid. I then spray the fish lightly on both sides with cold water and set it back in the freezer until the water is frozen. This process creates a barrier of ice that helps protect against freezer burn.

I then transfer the fish to a food-safe plastic bag and keep it frozen until needed. It should keep for up to two months, or even longer if you double-wrap the fish in foil or thick paper.

eakis@tc.canwest.com

Eric Akis is the author of the best-selling Everyone Can Cook book series. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.

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CEDAR PLANK PINK SALMON WITH HONEY, MUSTARD AND GARLIC

In this dish, the mild taste of pink salmon is richly enhanced with smoky, sweet, spicy and garlicky flavours.

Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus 1 hour marinating time

Cooking time: 25 to 30 minutes

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

2 Tbsp liquid honey

2 Tbsp Dijon mustard

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 Tbsp lemon juice

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

- salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 (2 1/2- to 3-lb.) whole pink salmon, head, fins and tail cut off

1 small lemon, thinly sliced

6 fresh parsley sprigs

1 cedar plank, soaked in cold water at least 1 hour (see Note)

- lemon wedges and parsley sprigs for garnish

Combine the honey, mustard, oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper in a shallow dish just large enough to hold the fish. With a sharp knife, on both sides of the fish, make shallow, diagonal cuts into the skin at 1-inch intervals. Set the fish in the dish and turn several times to coat it with the honey/mustard mixture. Brush some of the honey/mustard mixture into the cavity of the fish. Cover and let the salmon marinate in the refrigerator for 60 minutes, turning occasionally.

Preheat your barbecue to medium-high. Dry the side of the plank the fish will be placed on. Set the fish on the plank. Stuff the cavity of the fish with the sliced lemon and six parsley sprigs. Brush the fish with half the marinade. Set the plank on one side of the barbecue. Turn the heat off underneath the fish; leave the other side of the barbecue set to medium-high. Close the lid and cook the fish 10 minutes. Brush the fish with the remaining marinade, close the lid and cook 15 to 20 minutes more, or until cooked through. (Keep a spray bottle of water handy while the fish cooks, just in case the board ignites.)

Set the plank on a large platter, garnish with lemon and parsley and serve.

Note: Cedar planks are sold at most supermarkets and seafood stores. The one I used was 16 inches long. If you present the board, as I did, on a bed of fresh cedar boughs, ensure the fish does not touch them when serving. They contain resins you don't want to eat.

For added flavour, if desired, sprinkle the fish with your favourite spice rub before baking.

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 12 to 15 minutes

Makes: 4 servings

1 1/2 lbs. pink salmon fillets, cut into 4 portions

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

- salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 hamburger buns, split and warmed

- your favourite toppings and flavourings to taste, such as tartar sauce or mayonnaise, lettuce and sliced onion, tomato and pickle

Preheat the oven to 375*F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set the salmon on the baking sheet. Drizzle the fish with the oil and lemon juice; season with salt and pepper. Bake, uncovered, for 12 to 15 minutes, or until cooked through.

Sandwich the fish in the buns with your desired flavourings and toppings and enjoy.

CURRY ROASTED PINK SALMON

The aromatic curry paste used to flavour the fish, Indian-style, is sold in jars at most supermarkets in the Asian foods aisle.

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 25 to 30 minutes

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

1 (3-lb.) whole pink salmon, head, fins and tail cut off

1/4 cup mild or medium curry paste (I used Patak's brand)

2 Tbsp fresh lime juice

1 Tbsp vegetable oil

1/2 small onion, thinly sliced

4 to 6 mint sprigs

1 Tbsp chopped fresh mint

1 Tbsp sesame seeds, lightly toasted (see Note)

* lime slices for garnish

Preheat the oven to 400* F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Rinse the salmon with cold water and pat dry. With a sharp knife, on both sides of the fish, make shallow diagonal cuts into the skin of the salmon at 1-inch intervals. Set the salmon on the baking sheet.

Combine the curry paste, lime juice and oil in a small bowl. Brush the curry paste mixture into the cavity and on both sides of the fish. Stuff the cavity of the fish with the onion and mint sprigs.

Roast the fish for 25 to 30 minutes, or until cooked through. Carefully transfer the fish to a serving platter. Sprinkle with chopped mint and sesame seeds. Garnish with lime slices and serve.

Note: To toast the sesame seeds, place them in small skillet and set over medium heat. Cook, swirling the pan from time to time, until lightly toasted.

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Salmon in the pink

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