44 vertlble. It's called the Go-Go Car for Go-Go People." She smiled. Mr. Young, Mr. Hooper, and Miss Möller looked unImpressed. One of two salesmen who were standing on the periphery of the group asked Miss Möller what kInd of car she drove. "I don't have a car," she said, draw- ing deeply on her cigarette. "I ride a bike, a Moulton." The publicity people led Miss Amer- ican Teen-Ager off to a rack of Y outh- quake clothes and started pulling out some of her prize wardrobe. "And didn't you win a trip to Holly- wood?" a publicity woman asked the titleholder, motioning to Mr . Young, Mr. Hooper, and Miss Möller to come closer. "Oh, yes, Ma'am, I got a trip to Hollywood and a role in a 'Dr. Kil- dare' TV show with Richard Cham- berlain," Miss American Teen-Ager said. "Would you like to go to Holly- wood? " the publicity woman asked Miss Möller. "No," Miss Möller said, and left it at that. Miss American Teen-Ager gave her the smile. "No? " the publicity woman pursued. "I like being in London," Miss Möller said. "Kari-Ann is the star of our Y outh- k . " M Y . d " I qua e mOVIe, r. oung sal. t was directed by one of those people who worked on the film of 'The Knack.' It's a wonderful movie. Have you seen . K . A ..." It yet, arI- nn r "I saw it only on a crummy little screen in London," Miss Möller said. Miss American Teen-Ager and a couple of publicity women, carrying Y outhquake dresses, adjourned to a dressing room. Mr. Young, Mr. Hooper, and Miss Möller stood around in the salesroom, waiting. "She's a Dolly," Mr. Young said to his companions and to the two salesmen. "Too much froufrou Too schooled. Too trained. She's not free." "They ought to cut her hair off," Miss Möller said, tossing her head so that her hair swung freely about and then settled back neatly in place. "She's a boosted teen-ager. She's not typical of the Ameri- , " M can teen-agers we ve seen, r. Hooper said. "We've just come back from a six-week fashion- show tour of America," he went on, addressing the salesmen, who looked rather rumpled KEYS r+1U LAMPS REPAIRED MADE ,: oL l A PS RE o'RE "".y ..," I/\.... .::.. ". .. ; :"-J 'it - . tf; · "\1" I!' h ,Wi! , · - . )) (ØI III '11"'''" '" ' ' J 0 , 1 [ \11 ".. ' I r 'ili 11 11 ,. \.a_ 1- -I J 1\ 'n!' II I 1111111111111111111 SEPTEMDER 2, 5, 1 9 b 5 .i' ^ \ 1, but I couldn't stand it," she said. "All those tacky fashion-show commen- taries! Then I just smooched around for a bit. I went to the .,Ad Lib one night. Dancing," she said, observing the salesman's unspoken question. "It's a discothèque. In Soho, And that's how I met Mary Quant." "We have the two top names- Mary Quant and Tuffin & Foale-de- signing for Puritan, " Mr. Young saId, "and now other manufacturers are watching us and trying to get on the gravy train. Imitators think that any- body can do it." The salesmen looked alert. "Y outhquake had been on my mind for three years," Mr. Young went on. "Three years ago, I knew that 1966 would be the key year in America, because I'd done some research, and I'd learned that by 1966 half the American population would be under twenty-five. Everything in England had started cracking right after the Second World War. There had been a tremendous surge in England. There was a tremendous pent-up consumer demand, coupled with a gigantic need for consumer goods, and the postwar generation were looking for identity. They wanted to be important. They had suffered a traumatic shock. To exist, they cocooned together. They are really scared, but they have group freedom. I call it a Queen Bee soci- ety. And In England they've been able to find expression early. They leave school early, because the colleges are too full, and, because of the loss of the Empire, they feel they want to be important. Do you know what I mean? " The salesmen looked at each other as though they were trying to think. Mr. Hooper and Miss Möller ex- changed looks of their own. "They had been raised matriarchal- ly," Mr Young continued, speaking as softly as eVer. "Their fathers had been killed in the war or had com- mitted suicide-you know, in the depression The mothers indulged their children. Per- missiveness," he said slowly. "Did you ever hear of John Dewey? " The salesmen looked for help at the racks of Young Naturals, and, not finding it, contin ued to listen "In London, suddenly, it all went clonk," Mr. Young said. "But why wasn't it hap- pening in New York? The American teen-ager was still in J,.dJl 3kM, school. The teen-agers still had and tired alongside the Y outhquakers. "We went as far south as Atlanta, as far west as Dallas," Mr. Young said. "Everywhere we went, we found pent-up demands for the Mod look. Which was started by Mary Quant five years ago. Teen-agers here are clamoring for the Mod look. They want to be with it. It's a new type of geometry. Short hair. Short skirts. Sculptured lines as opposed to froufrou or the Dolly look. It relies on a clever use of seaming, it relies on clarity of line, to emphasize the prettiness of a girl. And very little jewelry. The enam- elled target circle pin, and that's all. It shapes up a girl's prettiness." The salesmen looked intimidated. "But the French," one of them said. "The French use of seaming. . ." His voice faded. "The French have been switched off for four and a half years," Mr. Hooper said. "Courrèges? "__ the other salesman asked. "But what more can he do?" Mr. Hooper said. "His geometry is perfect, but what more can he do?" He raised his eyebrows at the salesmen, who said nothing. "Young Naturals is the most SWItched-on division of Puritan, and the most switched-on in the country today," Mr. Hooper continued. "The crowds at our fashion shows! The teen- agers turned up by the thousands. Be- cause we showed the clothes the way the kids want to wear them! Without any tacky fashion-show commentaries. We showed the models doing things. And with theIr own music forms. Dancing to our Y outhquake song, sung by The Skunks. The whole bit. You should have seen the kids go for the clothes In Akron. Akron! Akron!" He seemed to be singing One of the salesmen asked Miss Möller if she had done any modelling before she joined Y outhquake. "1 worked for Mattli's for a month, \W V J I I Â