Description

"The Buchaille" as most know it, rises up as you head north across the Rannoch Moor from the east. An iconic Scottish mountain, it is actually a 7km long ridge with four tops, with most climbing concentrated on the northerly top, Stob Dearg (red peak).

The majority of climbing on Stob Dearg is on the North-East Face, which due to its aspect, does not get much sunshine. In addition, the approach to many of the routes involves a hike of about at least 1 hour and that's if you know where the route is located.

While the South-East Face does not have as much climbing, it is sunnier and has a much shorter approach (about 30 min).

Getting There

To access the North-East Face, park on the south side of the A82 at Altnafeadh, about 1.8 miles west of the Glen Etive turn-off. There is also parking in a lay-by (shoulder of the road) about 100m further west up the A82 or down the rough dirt road/parking area near the river.

To access the South-East Face, drive down the single track Glen Etive road and park on the left about a mile in or at a long lay-by on the left (SE) side of the road about 1/2 a mile in.

P1: Climb the crack above the block leading into the groove. Follow this up to a belay on the huge block at the base of a wide crack in the groove.P2: Continue up the easy ramp above to a large belay at a block or on a ledge with some old pins just above.P3: Continue up the same line to a sloping shelf leading out left onto the exposed nose. Move up the steep, cracked groove above on superb incut holds. Move left to a belay at a block.P4: Move left along the ledge and follow some fine, thin c...[more]Browse More Classics in International