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Are you still keeping killies? I'm trying to do almost exactly the same as you, except that I'm not thinking of implementing the IOS

Craftsman,
All those fun stuffs were done during the peak of my hobby and I'm glad I left behind a legacy of sorts. I no longer am obsessed with killie species-maintenance or try too hard to promote killifishes because the audience is really too niche.

I'm now keeping only 3 populations of Chromaphyosemion (Majitam, Ijebu Ode and Tiko) and if you use these words to do a 'search this forum' in Killifish and Non-Killie Segment, you'd probably find the information overwhelming. Killies are fun but they can be addictive.

As for fishroom, it's more like a parrot-room now (something has gotta give; budget or sanity) but for what you want to do, I think the archive will serve you well.

Like I said, ask when in doubt and if you do your homework, I'll try my best to guide you.

Lastly, if you could leave a name, that will be great because nicknames and aging don't mix well.

Craftsman,
All those fun stuffs were done during the peak of my hobby and I'm glad I left behind a legacy of sorts. I no longer am obsessed with killie species-maintenance or try too hard to promote killifishes because the audience is really too niche.

I'm now keeping only 3 populations of Chromaphyosemion (Majitam, Ijebu Ode and Tiko) and if you use these words to do a 'search this forum' in Killifish and Non-Killie Segment, you'd probably find the information overwhelming. Killies are fun but they can be addictive.

As for fishroom, it's more like a parrot-room now (something has gotta give; budget or sanity) but for what you want to do, I think the archive will serve you well.

Like I said, ask when in doubt and if you do your homework, I'll try my best to guide you.

Lastly, if you could leave a name, that will be great because nicknames and aging don't mix well.

Hi Ronnie, I figured you are probably not so much into Killies now. Now, thats a species of fish I'm scared to get into as the peripheral reading I've done tells me the hatching of these fishes require super human concentration and dedication. (Use of peat moss, wrapping up and keeping, etc) Just think I would be able to keep up. Ha ha ha ha...

Really do appreciate your help and advice, and my name is Paul. "Craftsman" is a moniker I've been inclined to use for some time now as we are all creative craftsmen to some degree. We learn something new everyday and often work at things to make them things of beauty.

Paul is definitely fine.

Thanks again Ronnie, and it is extremely good to make your acquaintance. Would sound you out if I need advice. I'm also right at the tail end of negotiating a new contract for a new job, so... if that deal comes through, I suspect that this fishroom project would take some time to be fully completed. I'm estimating a slow and steady weekend regime as i slowly setup the room, and to be completed by 3rd or 4th quarter this year. I'll likely just get the plumbing done together with the renovations, and either watch around the forum for suitable racks/tanks, or get them customized through one of the merchants I'm already in contact with.

Projects are really fun, the fact that you get to tinker around with stuff, learning as you move along. Ahh......simply wonderful.

Drainage of water through individual water pumps in each tank. Pumps on each tier will be group connected to it's own power source, so I can drain each tier separately if I want. Pumps will also be sized appropriately for tanks that are larger/smaller. Water pump is connected to PVC pipes, and drains direct to drain.

Tap water goes into a holding fiber glass tank, probably with a float valve device so that it doe snot overflow. Anti-chlorine and chloramine is administered here. Upon drainage of tank to 10 to 30&#37;, aged water is then pumped from holding tank to various tanks. Again, each tier is segregated with taps so that water change can be performed on individual tiers.

This setup requires monitoring, and is semi-automatic. Thats how I want it. Don't want a fully automatic setup as I still want to spend time with the fishes. Hee..

Hi Paul, nice diagram you've done up. On the surface, looks good but I have a few comments;

Tanks
Are the assorted dimensions intended for individual units or glass-partitioned 4ft tanks? Is there no provision for pre-drilled tanks with bulkheads or flow-through? In the long run, that can be a life-saver and can open more possibilities for modification as your needs changes.

Submersible pumps
Try to orientate the pumps' water intake at the top. If not, extend a tubing to where you want the water level to stop. Bottom line is to have the pump still submerged when at the desired level so your pump don't run dry (out of water)

Plumbing - Drain
If the pumps (on the same tier) are not started simultaneously, discharged water will find the path of least resistance. In the case of the middle tier, water from the 1ft tank will surely flow into the 2ft tank before heading to the down tube. I do not see how water flow from one tier is prevented from entering a lower tier (you need more ball valves).

Plumbing - Intake (from holding tank)
Taps/ball valves need to be relocated to the beginning of each horizontal run. Having valves in the same line (vertical up tube) will disrupt water delivery to the next higher tier. (eg. if you shut the valve at the 2nd tier, how does water flow to the top?)

Holding tank
Your setup has a minimum 6ft height and that submersible pump's specification must surpass that overhead. My preference is nothing less than an Eheim.

Airpump/filtration
If using air-driven sponge filters, get a Hi-blow. The model #20 is a nice capable pump for that setup or a #40 if you plan to install more racks but remember to bleed off the excess. Nothing kills that pump faster than constant back pressure.

Rack
If you're into the hobby for the long haul, consider stainless steel or chengai wood racks. These are good investment and will probably last longer than your interest

Maintenance
Allow for disassembly of the discharge manifold, using threaded or union connectors, in the event you need to carry out general cleaning, clearing a clog or further modifications.

Electrical safety
Based on your diagram, there is no less than 14 pumps, excluding lighting. Plan your wiring, AC points and avoid overload. Water & electricity is a lethal combo.

Just some thoughts off the top of my head. Have fun at the drawing board.

I don't understand why guys are lamenting over permissions. Not like we're one lot of MCPs but if one need permission for hobbies that keep the man happy at home (rather than clubbing elsewhere) then one need to reconsider before proposing or have options for hobbies to be included in pre-nuptial contracts .

Many thanks Ronnie for your valuable comments. Many of them raise issues that did not yet cross my mind. Some comments and questions below....

Originally Posted by RonWill

Hi Paul, nice diagram you've done up. On the surface, looks good but I have a few comments;

Tanks
Are the assorted dimensions intended for individual units or glass-partitioned 4ft tanks? Is there no provision for pre-drilled tanks with bulkheads or flow-through? In the long run, that can be a life-saver and can open more possibilities for modification as your needs changes.

I intend to get 4ft tanks and partition them. Customised likely. Uh.. I need your help here to explain what you mean by bulkheads. By flow-through, I assume you mean that each partitioned tank shares the same water? and that water flows through all the tanks to an overflow by the side of the tank? If this is what you mean, I've always had the question of the spreading of diseases, etc. Is this a concern?

Originally Posted by RonWill

Submersible pumps
Try to orientate the pumps' water intake at the top. If not, extend a tubing to where you want the water level to stop. Bottom line is to have the pump still submerged when at the desired level so your pump don't run dry (out of water)

Yes, Ronnie. I intend to do that, so that the pumps stay submerged.

Originally Posted by RonWill

Plumbing - Drain
If the pumps (on the same tier) are not started simultaneously, discharged water will find the path of least resistance. In the case of the middle tier, water from the 1ft tank will surely flow into the 2ft tank before heading to the down tube. I do not see how water flow from one tier is prevented from entering a lower tier (you need more ball valves).

Pumps at each tier will be started simultaneously. But I agree on the I didn't see that the top tier drainage would flow into middle tier tanks at all! I will revise the drawing to include extra valves.

Originally Posted by RonWill

Plumbing - Intake (from holding tank)
Taps/ball valves need to be relocated to the beginning of each horizontal run. Having valves in the same line (vertical up tube) will disrupt water delivery to the next higher tier. (eg. if you shut the valve at the 2nd tier, how does water flow to the top?)

Agree! Will revise.

Originally Posted by RonWill

Holding tank
Your setup has a minimum 6ft height and that submersible pump's specification must surpass that overhead. My preference is nothing less than an Eheim.

ok. Eheim it will be.

Originally Posted by RonWill

Airpump/filtration
If using air-driven sponge filters, get a Hi-blow. The model #20 is a nice capable pump for that setup or a #40 if you plan to install more racks but remember to bleed off the excess. Nothing kills that pump faster than constant back pressure.

Thanks for the recommendation. But.. how do you know how much is actually excess?

Originally Posted by RonWill

Rack
If you're into the hobby for the long haul, consider stainless steel or chengai wood racks. These are good investment and will probably last longer than your interest

Thinking of iron racks. Stainless steel will set me back quite abit. but will seriously consider this.

Originally Posted by RonWill

Maintenance
Allow for disassembly of the discharge manifold, using threaded or union connectors, in the event you need to carry out general cleaning, clearing a clog or further modifications.

Noted Ronnie. Good advise!

Originally Posted by RonWill

Electrical safety
Based on your diagram, there is no less than 14 pumps, excluding lighting. Plan your wiring, AC points and avoid overload. Water & electricity is a lethal combo.

Just some thoughts off the top of my head. Have fun at the drawing board.

Will get the electricals properly designed during my renovation so that the consumption requirements will be fully factored in.

I don't understand why guys are lamenting over permissions. Not like we're one lot of MCPs but if one need permission for hobbies that keep the man happy at home (rather than clubbing elsewhere) then one need to reconsider before proposing or have options for hobbies to be included in pre-nuptial contracts .

Its a new and different generation we are in Ronnie. I sometimes spend too much time in front of the tank and forget that my wife has 3 screaming kids wanting her attention all at once as their daddy is stuck to the tank. Thats wrong on my part, but it highlights the fact that it doesn't take alot to neglect the family. Even though one could be home, his heart may not be completely on his family.

Bulkheads are PVC fittings that are used in pre-drilled tanks. It is usually cut at the water level that you want to maintain. The fittings will also allow you to fit pipes for drainage and elbows to further adjust the water level (or rig a surface skimmer... possibilities are limited only by your imagination).

Flow-through, as it's name implies, flows from one end to the other OR water output from a spray bar entering all partitions simultaneously and exiting via a gap at the partition's lower edge (like in the IOS setup I linked previously). Either way, it shares the same water and yes, you must be diligent in maintaining good water and disease control. Individually sealed partitions, with bulkheads at the rear for centralized drainage is the safest bet.

"But.. how do you know how much is actually excess?"
You obviously want to avoid aeration that resemble water boiling in a pot. The perfect amount is what you require for the filters to work. Tune the bleed valve to your needs. Tip: fit an air-stone after the bleed line to reduce hissing noise.

"Will get the electricals properly designed during my renovation so that the consumption requirements will be fully factored in"
While you're doing that, see how you can protect the power strips from accidental water splashes.

I just remembered something... for the float valve in your holding tank, try reading "I'm wet", "I'm coming..." (it isn't what you think but I like what you're thinking!)

I think you should start a new thread on your whole set up process if possible. i believe many people would be really interested in this "one wall space" set up. i myself might do a similar set up in years to come when my current fish room is due to be decommisioned.

I think you should start a new thread on your whole set up process if possible. i believe many people would be really interested in this "one wall space" set up. i myself might do a similar set up in years to come when my current fish room is due to be decommisioned.

Hi Wei Quan,
Yes. I will start a new thread nearer to the time I am setting up the tanks. This, like I mentioned to Ronnie, might be a slightly longer term project, maybe over a few months/quarters.
I'm workign through some paper work to complete the purchase of my new place, and I need to sell my current place too. Once they are done, I will be going through the renovation, which is about the time I work in the plumbing for the tank. So, maybe in March, I will start a new thread with pictures for the new fish room.