At a glance

Your chance to

At a glance

13 days point-to-point walking with full porterage

Altitude maximum 7066m, average around 5000m

Follow the footsteps of pioneering exploreres towards the North Col of Mount Everest

After the success of the 2013 expedition, Exodus is returning to Chomolungma, also known as Mount Everest, to once again attempt to climb the iconic route to the North Col. Led by legendary Exodus leader Valerie Parkinson, this expedition allows you to experience the Everest only ever seen by those who dare to venture further than the comfort of Everest Base Camp; and the rewards are enormous. As you climb into thinner air you will pass the towering glacier pinnacles and twisted weathered snow and ice formations of the famous Magic Highway that leads to Camp 1 and 2, and then to Advanced Base Camp at 6,400m. After a number of further days rest and acclimatisation we will finally follow in the ill-fated footsteps of explorers Mallory and Irvine and set off for the ascent to the North Col of Everest (7,066m).

Itinerary

Show detailed itinerary

1Day 1Start Kathmandu

Those on the group flight will be transferred to our central hotel. Those not flying with the group from London will join us at the hotel. See more images and videos

2Day 2Kathmandu

This morning there will be a full briefing and equipment check. Anybody who needs to buy or rent equipment will have time today, and your leader will help you with this. Those who have all the equipment will have time to explore Kathmandu. Chinese visas and the climbing permit allowing entry into Tibet will hopefully be issued today See more images and videos

3Day 3Drive to Zhangmu

We leave Kathmandu this morning for the drive to the Tibetan border town of Zhangmu. The road takes us north of Kathmandu on the Arniko Highway past Bhaktapur, and then follows the Bhote Kosi (river) to Tatopani. Here we complete the border formalities and cross the Friendship Bridge into Tibet. We spend our first night at Zhangmu.See more images and videos

4Day 4Drive to Nyalam and acclimatisation walks 3,700m

Leaving Zhangmu the road starts to wind up onto the Tibetan Plateau and we leave the green terraced hillsides behind us as we gain altitude. We spend two nights at Nyalam (3,700m) to allow for acclimatisation. On both days we will go out for acclimatisation walks. One day we walk up onto the steep ridge across from the town to approx 4,300m, where we have great views across to Langtang, Shishapangma and the Jugal Himal. It is important in these early stages not to push yourself too much and to turn back if you are feeling the altitude. See more images and videos

Our drive today takes us up and over the Himalaya. The road climbs steadily for a couple of hours to the Tong La (5,100m) from where, on a clear day, we have superb views looking back over a whole host of snow capped peaks. Shishapangma can be seen off to the west. We are now well and truly on the Tibetan Plateau, a wild desolate landscape that has its own beauty. As we continue along the Friendship Highway a fantastic panorama of peaks, including Cho Oyu and Everest comes into view. We spend two nights at Tingri (4,300m) for acclimatisation. On our acclimatisation day we will hike up to approximately 4,950m with great views of Everest and Cho Oyu on a clear day (please note that there are many wild dogs in Old Tingri – please take care when walking round town – take a trekking pole when you go out of the hotel and walk in groups).
See more images and videos

Today we leave the Friendship Highway and head south on a spectacular but very rough road towards Cho Oyu and then towards Rongbuk. As we reach Rongbuk, Everest comes into view, more impressive than ever. Rongbuk is the highest monastery in the world, and the site of the original base camp for the first British expeditions on Everest. From Rongbuk we start our trek; today is an easy 11km walk to the present day Everest Base Camp (5,200m), the views en route are amazing with the North Face of Everest so close you feel like you can touch it! We may spot herds of blue sheep along the roadside. Just past the army camp is Base Camp and our home for the next three nights. See more images and videos

9Day 9Everest Base Camp 5,200m

These two days are spent at Base Camp to allow our bodies to get used to the altitude and environment. It’s important not to over exert yourself here and rest and drink plenty. One day we will hike to Japanese Camp One at 5,300m. The second day we will climb the hill behind Base Camp to approximately 5,500m. From Base Camp the whole of the North Face of Everest is visible and we get incredible sunset and sunrise views from camp. There will be time to see the memorial stones to Mallory and Irvine. Base Camp is fairly comfortable. As well as individual sleeping tents we have a comfortable dining tent and chairs, toilet tents and shower tent. Our cooks will provide good nutritious food and snacks and plenty of fluids so we stay well hydrated. See more images and videos

A tough day today as we leave Base Camp and trek to Interim Camp 1. Yaks will carry our main luggage so we will wait till they arrive. The walk starts fairly easily crossing the stony flood plain of the Rongbuk Glacier and then it winds easily along between the side of the valley and the glacier. After a couple of hours we pass Japanese Camp and then we leave the main valley and climb steeply into the East Rongbuk valley. The steep climb brings us onto a rocky moraine path which slowly ascends the valley. The trail undulates following the East Rongbuk Glacier. We stop for a packed lunch along the way. As we gain height the pinnacles of ice start to appear ahead. Finally we spot the tents at Interim Camp 1 and it seems to take forever to reach the small encampment. We take the walk very slowly today due to the altitude and it can get cold and windy in the late afternoon. See more images and videos

12Day 12Changtse Base Camp 6,050m

We now follow the East Rongbuk Glacier, called the Magic Highway. As the trek up the valley we see the fantastic ice pinnacles of the glacier which was discovered in 1922 and provided the key to climbing Everest from the north. From camp we descend a little and then climb back up onto a moraine ridge. We now follow a river of moraine that flows through the pinnacles. The trail undulates through the middle of the Magic Highway and although the gradient is not steep the altitude makes the going hard. However the views today are some of the most spectacular on the whole trek as towering either side of us are huge pinnacles of blue ice. At one point we get a view of Everest before it disappears behind Changtse. Our camp today is in a spectacular location on a rocky site right next the river of ice pinnacles. We should get to camp for lunch and the afternoon is spent resting and getting used to the altitude.See more images and videos

13Day 13Advance Base Camp 6400m

A short but very tough day due to the altitude. The trail today starts along the edge of the East Rongbuk Glacier and then we get onto the glacier for a while before walking back onto the vast moraines. The river of ice pinnacles gets even more spectacular than yesterday as they tower above us and appear to march down the valley like an army of ice soldiers. Finally we turn the corner and ahead we can spot the first tents of Advanced Base Camp (ABC). However at this altitude reaching our camp will seem to take forever. But we can enjoy the view of Everest ahead of us as the immense North Face of Everest towers above us and stays with us all the time (weather permitting) at ABC. On reaching camp we have lunch and the rest of the day is spent resting and adjusting to the extreme altitude. See more images and videos

14Day 14Rest and acclimatisation

This will be our last day together as a whole group as the trekkers will leave us tomorrow. We will be sleeping at 6,400m and need to acclimatise to this height and it is quite normal to feel the initial symptoms of altitude sickness. We will get up late and drink and eat as much as we can force down and once we are comfortable with the altitude we can take a walk up the moraine through the long sprawling camp. We get amazing views of the summit of Everest and ahead we can see the whole face of the steep North Col – we may even be able to spot Sherpas or climbers as they inch their way up the fixed ropes on the face. See more images and videos

15Day 15Acclimitisation climb towards North Col

After saying goodbye to our trekkers we make an initial climb towards the North Col as part of our acclimatisation. The moraine continues up the side of the glacier, close to the flank of Changtse for two hours to crampon point where we break out onto the glacier. From here we walk gradually up the glacier with crampons on for another two hours to the very foot of the slopes leading to the col. From there the trail climbs very steeply on fixed ropes. If we are feeling good we make an initial foray onto the North Col route and have a practice using the fixed ropes to ascend and descend.See more images and videos

16Day 16Rest day

A final rest and preparation day. We pack all our gear for tomorrow and make sure we rest, drink and eat as much as we can. See more images and videos

17Day 17Climb to the North Col (7,066m)

A long, hard day today as we leave early under supervision of the leader and our climbing sherpas. We trek for two hours to the edge of the glacier where we put our crampons on. From here we continue for another two hours across the wind swept glacier to the base of the fixed rope (at about 6,600m). The route is fixed in late March each year by the teams attempting Everest and provides security and assistance as we weave up between the ice seracs. Most of the route is 30–40 degrees steep with some steeper sections and there is one part that is almost vertical. There may be some crevasses spanned by ladders. It will be hard work as we inch our way up the fixed ropes with a jumar. It usually takes at least four hours on the fixed ropes from the base of the col to the col. All the effort is worth it and once at the North Col we will be rewarded on a clear day with incredible views across the North Face of Everest, up the north ridge to the summit. We walk along to the fixed North Col campsite for photos a rest and a drink before descending carefully to ABC. Today will be at least a 12 -14 hour round trip.See more images and videos

18Day 18Spare day

A spare day in case of bad weather or we need more time to acclimatise. Group members will acclimatise at different speeds and it is important to allow contingency days to allow all clients maximum chance of achieving their goal. If all has gone well this day will be used as a rest day at ABC. See more images and videos

19Day 19Return to Base Camp 5,200m

We have a long but spectacular return walk to Base Camp on day 19 and day 20 is a well deserved free day at Base Camp for washing/showering and packing. See more images and videos

The landcruisers will arrive at Base Camp this morning and we drive back to the Friendship Highway again. Turning west and then south we drive back over the Himalaya. As Everest recedes from view we have a splendid panorama of Shishapangma, the only 8,000m peak entirely in Tibet, the views are spectacular - to the north is a vast open landscape with range upon range of mountains beyond, while ahead of us to the south there is an amazing panorama of snow-capped peaks of the main Himalaya chain. A steady climb brings us to the summit of the Lalung La (5,000m) and then the Tong La (5,100m) as we leave Tibet - from the pass the road drops into a gorge between snow-capped peaks. A long and sometimes steep descent brings us down to Nyalam. If there is time we continue on down the gorge, which narrows considerably - the road is a tremendous feat of engineering - and in less than an hour we leave the stark scenery and pass into an altogether different world, descending dramatically into a forested gorge until we arrive at Zhangmu and our final night in Tibet.See more images and videos

22Day 22Drive to Kathmandu

We drive or walk down to the Friendship Bridge. This depends on the amount of traffic and road conditions. Usually we can drive most of the way and just have a short walk along the road. After completing the Chinese border formalities we cross the Friendship Bridge and we are back in Nepal. As soon as the Nepalese border formalities are complete, we board our bus. The road follows the Bhote Kosi Valley down to its junction with the Sun Kosi at Barabise. We continue down the Sun Kosi past rice terraces, small villages and scrub woodland to Dolalghat where we leave the river and complete our journey to Kathmandu, stopping for lunch en route. We should arrive in Kathmandu late afternoon.See more images and videos

23Day 23Depart

For those on group flights, these depart early morning and will arrive in the UK the same day. For those not flying on the group flight back to London they will leave us after breakfast. See more images and videos

Your images

Adult Group

This is a small group adult holiday. The group is usually between 4 and 16 in size, with an average of 12 like-minded clients booking individually, in a couple or as friends together.

Activity level

You have a good level of fitness and are looking for a physically challenging holiday. Previous experience is essential for activity based trips.

What's included

What's included

All meals outside of Kathmandu

All accommodation (see below)

All transport and listed activities

Tour leader throughout

Flights from London (if booking incl. flights)

Expedition tents

Qualified climbing sherpa per 2.5 clients

What's not included

Travel insurance

Single accommodation (available on request from GBP86)

Visas (Tibetan/Nepali) or vaccinations

Specialised climbing equipment

Depending on group size, Valerie Parkinson may not lead the actual climb, and may return to Kathmandu with the trekkers after Advanced Basecamp

Accommodation details

Hotels, Guesthouses and Camps

In Kathmandu we use the Royal Singi Hotel, a good tourist class hotel with all rooms having private facilities. The hotel is situated in the central part of Kathmandu, and many shops and restaurants are within easy walking distance.
In Tingri, Nyalam and Zhangmu we use a simple guesthouses. We do not guarantee attached bathrooms.
At Base Camp everyone will have their own tent with foam mattress. There will be a dining tent with carpet, chairs and heater, a store tent and communications tent plus toilet and shower tents. There will be solar panels and a generator at Base Camp for power supply. A PAC bag and oxygen mask set for medical purposes will be kept at Base Camp. A full kitchen team will always be at Base Camp and food, hot drinks and snacks are provided all day. Walkie talkie sets will be used by the sherpas.
At Advanced Base Camp there will be the same facilities as at Base Camp apart from you will be sharing a tent.
At Camp 1 and 2 you will share a tent. There will be a basic dining and kitchen tent and a toilet tent. A foam mattress is provided.

Essential info

Vaccinations and Visa
Most nationalities require a visa for Nepal, which can be obtained in advance or on entry. The current cost of a visa on arrival is USD25 for 15 days, USD40 for 30 days or if extending your stay USD100 for 90 days. All are multiple entry. You will also need a passport photo. The visa fee can be paid in US Dollars, Pounds Sterling or Euros. If you wish to apply before departure the current visa cost is GBP20 for a 15 day visa and GBP35 for a 30 day visa for UK passport holders. All other nationalities should check with their nearest embassy.
There are no mandatory vaccination requirements. Recommended vaccinations are: Polio, Tetanus, Diphtheria, Typhoid, Hepatitis A. The risk of malaria is present in certain regions only (such as Chitwan); you may wish to consult your GP or travel health clinic for further advice. Dengue fever is a known risk in places visited. It is a tropical viral disease spread by daytime biting mosquitoes. There is currently no vaccine or prophylaxis available for Dengue, and therefore the best form of prevention is to avoid being bitten. We recommend you take the usual precautions to avoid mosquito bites. Most of our trips to Nepal go to high altitudes where there is a risk of being affected by Acute Mountain Sickness. Our itineraries are designed to enable everyone to acclimatise to these altitudes, but you should be aware that it is still possible for you to be affected. Please refer to the TRIP NOTES for complete advice on AMS.
Holiday style

With the exception of summit day this expedition is a trek, although the remoteness and altitude make it a serious and difficult undertaking. The North Col is higher than anything outside Asia and a Tough challenge for all but the most experienced mountaineer, to join the expedition you need previous remote, high altitude trekking experience and to be comfortable using ice axe, crampons and a jumar and abseil device. Summit day is a strenuous climb with one short near-vertical ice section which may involve the use of ladders.

The environment is challenging with extreme altitude and high winds that are common in this part of Tibet. The itinerary is planned to allow plenty of acclimatisation, however the extreme altitude may be a problem for slow acclimatisers. You need to have previous experience of altitudes over 5,000m and be reasonable confident you can acclimatise in the time available. You need to have technical mountaineering experience, be competent walking in plastic boots with crampons and in using a fixed rope with jumar and abseil device to ascend and descend.

Maybe you have climbed Mont Blanc, Mera or Island Peak or similar 6,000m peaks and now you want a greater challenge? If you have not done any such mountaineering before, a Scottish Winter Course or an Alpine course would be a good starting point. On booking you will be sent a form to fill in outlining your previous experience. Exodus maintains the right not to accept a booking if previous experience cannot be demonstrated.

Eating & drinking

breakfast only included in Kathmandu, outside Kathmandu all meals are included.

Trip notes

Download the detailed trip notes for everything you could possibly want to know about this trip, including
detailed itinerary and full kit list

Gallery

Reviews & community

What an amazing experience being over 5,200m for over two weeks. The view of Everest from the Tibetan side is a sight to behold, it'll be etched in your memory bank forever. This trip is not for the faint hearted, but it's well worth the effort.

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

Advance Base Camp and actually being on Everest. Our Puja was also very moving, and with the flag pole sitting straight, all looked well for a successful outing up to the North Col

What did you think of your group leader?

Splendiferous.........well it was Valerie

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

Embrace this trip for what it is, awe inspiring and possibly the hardest thing you'll ever do apart from an 8,000m peak. Make sure that you have thoroughly tested yourself at altitude before heading out on this one. In preparation, train hard to the point that you feel sick!! you almost certainly are going to feel nauseous at times on the mountain. Check out all your medications and their side effects, and how they react at altitude. You don't want your meds to become the reason you need to come down. But most of all, keep everything in perspective and enjoy, it's TOTALLY BREATHTAKING

Is there anything else you would like to add?

Are you fascinated about the History of Everest.......want to know why Mallory kept going back. If so, then this is a trip for you, you will then totally understand all of his motivations and the lure and captivating nature of Everest, such a beauty and powerful mountain from this side. But be prepared to feel like you have never felt before on every level, physical and emotional. ENJOY. I'd do it again...................

The low: the walk across the glacier on the day of the practice climb, aimed at taking us just part way up to the North Col, seemed never ending - how on earth was I going to climb up the apparently verical snow and ice face looming above? The highest high - two days later seeing the tents on the North Col suddenly come into view only 20 meters ahead, what a view - 7066m we had done it! Then it got even more intense - descending directly back down via a series of abseils what a total buzz.

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

The whole expedition was so different from all my other trips - including Island Peak. Crossing into Tibet for the first time, driving across the vastness of the Tibetan Plateau and getting our first view of a distant Mt Everest. Fantastic views of multiple snow clad peaks from our acclimatisation walks. The walk up from the Rongbuk Monastery to Everest North Base Camp gave a feeling we had arrived. The walk up the Magic Highway with views of fantastic ice sculptures snatched between trying to breethe and walk at the same time. The view of the almost constant plume of cloud / snow streaming from the summit of Mt Everest from Advanced Base Camp.

The climb up to the North Col itself was the overall highlight but we would not have got there if it was not for the constant care and attention given by our climbing Sherpas.

What did you think of your group leader?

Valerie was excellent - as alway - no more needs said!

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

This was theoretically a one-off expedition so I don't know is advice is strictly relevent.

The trip notes said that outwith the summit day it was a trek - I don't agree. For twelve days we were above 5000m and on six of those we were at / above 6400m. Being high for this long made this different from a normal trek - underfoot it may have been the same but the altitude made it essential to 'listen' to your body and take things slow.

Is there anything else you would like to add?

The climbing Sherpas and all the support crew looked after us very well.

There was a great friendly atmosphere throughout the trip - even when the oxygen was getting thin!

High altitude trekker and one of Exodus' most renowned and experienced leaders, Valerie is known rightly as an "Exodus Legend."
The first British woman to summit Manaslu (8,163m), the eighth tallest peak in the world, without supplementary oxygen, to say Valerie is an experienced trekker is an understatement. She has led the ascent of Stok Kangri more than 20 times and spent at least 14 Christmas days trekking to Everest Base Camp.
In 2009 (as a 50th birthday present to herself!) she attempted to summit Everest and (despite running out of oxygen and getting frostbite) successfully reached the South Summit at 8,761m. She has been instrumental in setting up and managing Exodus' various Responsible Travel projects in the Himalaya.
This year as Exodus celebrates it’s 40th anniversary, Valerie has an anniversary of her own to celebrate – 2014 will be the 30th year she has been leading treks in the Himalaya – and for those of you who can do the maths – more than 50% of her life has been spent amongst the most magnificent mountains on Earth.

Questions about your trip

Pick your question

Can I buy any equipment in Kathmandu before the start of the trip?

Yes. There are dozens of trekking shops in the Thamel area of Kathmandu. Depending on how good your bartering skills are, you can usually pick up items for about one third of the price that you'll pay in the UK...and its more fun to bargain! However, please note we cannot guarantee the quaility of anything you may purchase so buyer beware.

David Richardson - Sales

What weather should I expect in Tibet?

As nearly all of Tibet lies above 3,500m it has a harsh climate. At the times of year when we visit Tibet (March to October) the weather is generally dry and clear, with brilliant blue skies and daytime temperatures of 10ºC to 25ºC in Lhasa. The days should be pleasantly warm (provided there is sunshine) for most of the trip, although on the trips in October will be much cooler. On the road journeys the tops of the high passes can be cold and windy and it is advisable to keep a warm jacket with you on the bus. As soon as the sun goes down the temperature falls rapidly. The nights will be cooler and will be very cold in Rongbuk in September and October with temperatures well below freezing. Some of the hotels we use can be cold at nights in September and October. There can be wind and dust storms in the afternoons especially at Rongbuk. From June to September it is monsoon season in Nepal and it will be hot and humid in Nepal and you may well get rain.

Joanna Zubr - Tibet Operations

Considering the political situation, should I travel to Tibet?

The Dalai Lama has stated that he believes westerners should visit Tibet so that Tibet and the Tibetans do not become isolated, and our belief is that the Tibetans themselves, in general, regard the presence of westerners in Tibet as a positive factor. Our agent in Tibet is Tibetan and as far as possible, we only use Tibetan guides and drivers or Chinese guides sympathetic to Tibetan culture. Wherever possible we use facilities that are Tibetan owned and run. Sometimes this is not possible and travelling in Tibet you must understand this.

Brendan Phelan - Customer Operations

Exodus staff - expertise on hand to help

All the staff at Exodus share a passion for adventure travel, and are always happy to answer any questions you may have. You can find an expert for the area you are interested in here and can contact them to get further information. If you don't see your specific country listed, please email customerops@exodus.co.uk and they will get the answers you need!

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This climb will be joined for the first 15 days with theEverest Advanced Basecamp Trek. If you are travelling with a member of the trekking party and wish to meet up again at Everest Basecamp to return to Kathmandu together, this is possible. Please just inform one of our sales team at the time of booking and they will look into the logistics of organising this for you. For more information on the Everest Advanced Basecamp Trek please click the "View Trip" box in the dates and prices section above, or simply look below in the "You might also like" section.

Responsible travel

We realise that every holiday destination is also someone else's home and that we should leave places as we found them. Find out more about how we incorporate responsible travel into our adventure and activity holidays, and how you can help by donating to one of our responsible travel projects.