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What will and won't work gets revealed over time. If the guy in the video said it works for him, then real world results speak for themselves.

There are those who use an air impact and call it a day. Then there are those who go by the book. Then there are those who went the route you took. So forth and so forth. If it works it works. If it doesn't, then time will reveal it didn't.

I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like a bitch

90 or 180 will work the same because once you reach 90 degree then the next 90 degrees is just about the same resistance meaning that you're merely stretching the metal that reached it maximum tensile strength anyway. The more important thing is to make sure to put a little bit more of blue or red loctite than what's provided with the bolts as that will prevent them from backing out. bu that's on steel FW.

If you're putting these onto aluminum FW then make absolutely sure to do 180degrees because the bolt is actually shaving/compressing/grinding soft aluminum when it is tightening. Every time FW bolts are taken off aluminum FW they leave a nice ring of shaved off metal matching their head diameter although it is probably a result of serrated teeth grinding it off during bolt removal... but better safe than sorry.

Its 180deg, and I wouldnt fk around in this area.
Should be no prob with oem stuff, but can be fun with oem bolts biting their way into an alum flywheel and locking up.

I think the other numbers come from a vendor a while back saying 60ft/lb +90deg.
Not sure why they specd that, maybe different bolts or just a mistake? It was an alum fw so maybe that had something to do with it.

The shorter bolts in the newer cars are the same initial torque, but +90deg. Its only 90deg because there is less bolt to stretch on these.
Some single mass steel fw for our cars use these bolts (and torque) also.

There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

Put anti-seize under the bolt heads when using an aluminum flywheel. That'll prevent galling and you'll get a more accurate torque number. Do NOT put anti-sieze on the threads. THAT will fk up the torque and you'll probably break off a coupla bolts.

BTW, every time I've torqued and attempted the 180, I ran outta stones about 100 degrees into the 180. Holy cow, that was a bunch of torque! I'm afraid of busting off bolts. Literally, I have my 18 inch breaker bar and a 30 inch cheater pipe and the noise the bolts are making gives me the shakes. So I'm a torque to spec and turn 100. Haven't had a flywheel come adrift yet...

Dude that writes the Bentley manual lives by me (moderator of the Ross Tech forum boards) and I had a very long conversation with him before. His gripe was people not going by what he says, then wonders why things go awry on their vehicle.

Granted things need revision after real world factors reveal things, but that is more of a trial and error thing. Not long enough road history for cars for him to be 100% accurate when he writes it. Just a different way of looking at it when things are not always accurate and Audi/VW sends out letters.

I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like a bitch

Often it seems like the torque listed is just dependent on how the engineer decided to come up with the number.
Could have done all the work to calculate what the joint actually needed and called it good, or said fk it, whats the most these things will take before we twist the head off?

PP bolts are prob a good example of what is the minimum we need for the application vs how much is the bolt good for.
I know Im no engineer, but I sure as shit dont use the factory spec on them things (25ftlb alum fw, 30ftlb steel fw).

There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

I too agree that 180 degrees is overkill. If youíve ever torqued a flywheel beyond 100 degrees, youíll see how it feels. Besides being very difficult to lock the flywheel safely, it is possible to bust either the bolt, or worse still the crank boss.

I have never run more thread lock than what comes on new bolts, and Iíve never had any back out from 1988 till date.