If you happen to stumble across the Mesa eatery, hidden behind a McDonald's on Southern Avenue, you probably wouldn't expect much.

Located across from Fiesta Mall in a rundown, mostly vacant strip mall in front of a larger rundown, mostly vacant strip mall, it's the kind of place you expect to be, well, rundown and mostly vacant.

And that's why you just might be surprised.

Scene: The utilitarian red-and-white decor seems to be sponsored by Coca-Cola, right down to the branded napkin holders and salt and pepper shakers.

Small tables are pushed together in groups of two or three. There's seating for 36 people, plus a narrow, south-facing patio. A lone TV and several small posters for Philadelphia sports teams hang on the walls.

(The current owners actually have no connection to the City of Brotherly Love. They simply continued the theme from the previous owners.)

You order at the counter and they call your number when the food is ready.

Food: Order a cheese steak ($4.69 for 5-inch, $6.39 for 10-inch) and you'll get just that -- white American cheese and grilled steak on a soft hoagie roll. That said, the ample sandwich -- a 5-inch is actually about 7 inches -- is surprisingly tasty despite its simplicity.

It's never really made clear, but you can substitute Cheez Whiz or provolone, as well as add onions, peppers and mushrooms. You just have to ask. Several specialty cheese steaks, including barbecue and pizza varieties, are the same price as the basic sandwich.

Wings ($7.69 per dozen) may seem a little pricey, but prove to be larger and meatier than your average wings. They come in your choice of four sauces: medium, hot, honey hot and barbecue.

The gyros ($5.99) won't make you forget your favorite Mediterranean eatery, but they are satisfying enough if that's your inclination. The menu also includes subs ($5.99), burgers ($2.39-$6.09), hot dogs ($2.39-$3.59) and chicken sandwiches ($4.49).

Sides cover the full range of fried foods, from onion rings and zucchini ($3.29 each) to mozzarella sticks ($3.99) and popcorn chicken ($2.65).

Desserts: No desserts are listed on the menu, but you can't miss the boxes of Tastykake products (longtime Philly favorites) stacked on the counter. Selections include Cupcakes, Krimpets and Kandy Kakes ($1.75 each). There is also a cold case of Blue Bunny ice cream treats.

Drinks: Besides fountain sodas, there is a refrigerated case of Snapple drinks, Arizona teas, bottled water and canned sodas.

Lowdown: Philly Steak & Wings isn't the kind of place you'd drive across town to visit. But if you enjoy cheese steaks and find yourself in the vicinity of Fiesta Mall, it's well worth checking out.