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We paid our respects to the Grand-Duke and Duchess, as did 송탄오피 all the company at Rome, at their own apartments. They seemed much pleased with all they saw, and with the society. After Princess D. left, they were perfectly at their ease. There was at that time no Russian Ambassador, or Minister, at Rome. I afterwards heard that they were not so comfortable at Naples.

A tailor at Rome made a coat for the Grand-Duke. When he brought it home the sleeves were found to be too long. “I suppose,” said the Prince, “you have heard that kings have long arms; but mine as yet are only rags.” He and the Grand-Duchess appeared to be very domestic, and liked to talk of their children. I remember the Grand-Duchess showing us portraits of some of them en silhouette. Her dress was very magnificent at Cardinal de Bernis’ fête. It was white, trimmed with the most valuable sables, over which hung large pearls in garlands, fastened with diamond knots of great size and splendour.

On the 1st of March we went to Cardinal de Bernis’. On account of the fêtes given by him in honour of the birth of the Dauphin, torches and guards were placed at the corners of all the streets leading to his house. The front and both sides of his palace were illuminated with four immense 223wax-lights in each window, which made a most brilliant appearance. All the carriages went in by the back way, none being permitted to pass in front of the palace, as opposite to it and before the church of St. Marcel an elegant amphitheatre had been erected for music, for the amusement of the populace; the decorations were very pleasing, and had a delightful effect from the windows. The rooms were all decorated in a festal manner, with a great deal of gilding and many looking-glasses; the gallery with trophies on a gold ground, and the ceiling with fleurs-de-lys and dolphins. At the end of the gallery, within the columns, was an amphitheatre for the musicians, who were all in uniform. An infinite number of lights, perfectly well arranged, were scattered about, and two rows of seats were placed round both rooms for the company. As we were going up-stairs we met the cardinal, attended by his gentlemen, servants, &c., with eight torches and eight candles, going to receive the Grand-Duke and Duchess, for whom chairs had been placed across the gallery between the columns. The Princess of Palestrine, who did the honours of the Cardinal’s house, seated herself beside them for a short time, but after a while gave her place to the Pope’s niece. The Cardinal stood behind the Grand-Duchess, as also did Monseigneur de Bernis. The Prince of Würtemberg would not sit down, but stood beside the Cardinal. The 224lady who accompanies the Grand-Duchess, with the two maids of honour, were placed near, but there was an immense crowd. Immediately afterwards began the cantata, which lasted an hour. The poetry of it—in honour of the Dauphin—was composed by a secretary of the Pope’s nephew, and the music by a Maestro di Capella of the Pope. The Grand-Duke and Duchess were very attentive, and after refreshments had been offered to them, which they declined, they went and sat down in the next room, whither most of the company followed them. Soon after we were seated the Cardinal brought the Grand-Duke up to us, and presented us in the most affectionate manner. He then presented the Duchess Bobadilla and another lady who sat beside us, but the Grand-Duke immediately returned to us and entered into conversation, until he was called off by two letters being brought to him by express. He talked to us in the most polite and attentive manner, and expressed a desire for us to visit Russia. Upon our mentioning that we were acquainted with Admiral Knowles, he inquired with great affection after Miss Knowles and Sir Charles, and said he had much regretted the Admiral’s departure. When we told him that the son was a captain in the navy, he remarked that the post of captain in the English navy was a most respectable rank, with many other things that showed equally his sense 225and good-breeding. He speaks French perfectly well. They went away soon afterwards, when we returned into the gallery and heard some very good music, and did not get home till past twelve. On the following night there was, if possible, more company than on the previous one, and everything still more in gala. The Grand-Duke and Duchess came early, and were placed as before, only they made the Princess of Palestrine sit between them, and, when she went into the next room, the Cardinal de Bernis. They were exceedingly pleased, and made themselves very agreeable. The cantata was written by the same author as the other, but the music was by Cimarosa, and infinitely finer. They stayed to hear two other pieces of music, and then passed into the other room, where they remained till near ten. The Grand-Duchess was elegantly dressed, and looked exceedingly well: the Grand-Duke wore a plain coat with superb diamond buttons. I sat by the lady who accompanies the Duchess, and found her very agreeable: she is a German. The music lasted till after eleven, and was very fine. The palace and the street in front of it, with the orchestra opposite, were as light as day. The Academy of France was also lighted up, and had an orchestra in the same manner. On the Sunday before, all the money sent by the King of France to pay for this fête was given away by the Cardinal in doweries—fifty 226crowns each to one hundred and fifty brides in Rome, and twenty-five crowns each to two hundred at Albano. The Bishop of Apollonia administered the Sacrament, and handed the orders to them to receive the money at once, instead of waiting till they were married, as is usually the case. At a little after six on the next day we went to pay our respects to the Grand-Duke and Duchess, and found there the Princess Doria, the Princess Santa Croce, and another lady, with the German lady, the friend of the Duchess. The Cardinal de Bernis and several other gentlemen were also there. We went immediately into the next room, where the Grand-Duchess received us at the door, the Grand-Duke standing behind her. She told my mother that she had saluted her the night before, and had curtseyed twice, adding, very politely, that as her husband had made our acquaintance, she also much wished to do so. She then had chairs placed round, and desired us all to be seated. She chatted much about Rome, and told Cardinal de Bernis that she would never leave it were it not for her children. The Grand-Duke came and talked to us for some time with the greatest good-humour and affability. The Duchess was very desirous that the gentlemen likewise should sit down, and told a gentleman who accompanies them, and whom she calls “Mon Général,” to set them the example. When we took our leave, she assured my mother that she should be 227always very happy to see us; that her husband was so pleased with making our acquaintance, that she was likewise very anxious for it, &c. &c. In short, nothing could be more flattering and attentive than their reception of us. They appear very much attached to one another.[116] The Duchess’s figure is certainly very fine, and improves upon one, while the Grand-Duke is so genteel and pleasing in his manners, that his person seems to me at present far from disagreeable.

On the 14th we went to take leave of the Count and Countess of the North. 송탄오피 They received us with the greatest goodness. The Count told me he regretted infinitely that we had not met oftener; that our visit then, though it made him happy, was rather a pain than a pleasure; that it was not their fault they had not seen us every day, but as there were so many things to see they usually returned home too late to receive company, and could not make an exception to a general rule, or they would have received us at any time; that he 228had inquired whether we were at the concert at Princess Doria’s, and would have come to us, but the devil of etiquette prevented him. He pressed exceedingly that we should go to St. Petersburg, saying his house and the whole city should be at our disposal. I then ventured to say that, if we were not so happy as to travel so far, my mother hoped that the Count and Countess of the North would permit us to take the liberty of requesting their interest with the Grand-Duke and Duchess for any of our English sea officers who, if there was a peace in our distracted country, might be ambitious of serving in Russia. He replied that they had some credit with those personages, and nothing would make him happier than to be of service to us, or to any of our friends; that my mother and I had only to write to him and mention how far they were in our esteem, and he would treat them accordingly, as he was sure my mother knew the Navy too well, and was too nice to recommend any who were not deserving. “Believe me,” he added, “upon my honour I wish nothing more than to be useful to you. I beg you will be assured of my sincerity, and I hope you will soon put it to the proof. But if it should be ten or twenty years’ hence, you may be equally sure of it, for I could not forget you even if I were inclined to do so; and I am certain that if I were not in the world, the Countess would do the same. I think power is never so agreeable as when it can 229make one useful to one’s friends, and, as such, I desire you will ever consider us.” He repeatedly urged us to go to St. Petersburg; and upon my remarking how difficult it was to travel in time of war, he said, war had nothing to do with our going there, because even if there was a war in Russia, it could not be one disagreeable to us. He added, that when he was master of himself there was nothing he would not do for us, but, as it was, he could be of some use to us in St. Petersburg. The Countess was also excessively kind to us, and pressed us strongly to go to Russia, and, indeed, said the most obliging and flattering things. She bade me draw everything at Rome as fast as possible, and meet them at St. Petersburg—with many more of the kindest expressions. She said it gave her great pain to go away just as she was beginning to make acquaintances, and that she should have wished to have cultivated a friendship with Cardinal de Bernis and with us; that she had but small hopes of meeting him again, but would always retain a regard for him. As for us, she said she would not give up the idea of again seeing us, and that she should quit us with tears in her eyes, adding the most affectionate expressions of kindness. The persons who accompany the Count and Countess are all perfectly well chosen. The maids of honour are both well behaved and good natured, and the General’s lady is very amiable.

230The Pope mentioned one night at supper that the “barcarole” that brought him from Venice had since gained three hundred crowns, at half a baioccho from each person, by letting people kiss the place where he was seated, adding: “Quanto mi piace di vedere la fede di questi buoni Veneziani!” He also said that one of his gloves having fallen from his hand was instantly cut into a thousand pieces for relics.

The Pope having lately found an obelisk, has had it removed to Monte Cavallo, where it is to be placed between the two statues. The expense and trouble were no slight matter. The other day the following inscription was placed on it: “Fac ut lapides isti panes fiant.” Infinite pains were taken to discover the author and have him punished, and on the following morning was written beneath the other: “The author is St. Luke, chap. iv. 3.”

The Pope stayed two nights and a day at Cesena, and ordered his bed to be placed in the room in which he was born. His people were so little used to travelling, that they forgot the chocolate-cup, and, after much searching in the town where they 송탄오피 happened to be, they told the Pope there was not one to be got fit for his use. “Well, then,” said he, “give me the chocolate in a pipkin.” When the 231Pope wanted to change his linen, the valise in which it was packed happened to be two hours behind on the road. The baggage-cart broke down, and, it seems, caused the oddest confusion ever beheld, mitres and chalices tumbling about amongst pots and pans. It resembled the furniture of a playhouse, and a gentleman remarked that the Pope was a good actor, and was now removing his theatre to Vienna. He is a strolling player, then, said another. Some one expressing a certain curiosity as to the sort of honours the Emperor would show the Pope at Vienna, a bystander replied: “He will probably dispense with Lent, and give his Holiness a masked ball.”