Expert guide to Rio de Janeiro

A short guide to what to do in a day in Rio de Janeiro, including visiting the Museu de Arte de Rio, Copacabana beach and partying in Leblon. By Doug Gray, Telegraph Travel's Rio expert

Why go now?

Ahead of the World Cup, the city that will host the final, Rio de Janeiro, remains the very essence of Brazil. Steamy, tropical and sexy, it seems to move with a casual samba swing and hardly anything, except for football and the traffic, is taken too seriously. Since Brazil landed the World Cup and the Olympics, public works projects and investments may have altered the city, but what will never change is the cheerful creativity that has helped turn Rio’s landscape into tourist attractions, its people into born entertainers and its footballers into the best in the world. The only way to really appreciate Rio’s full armoury of charms is to strip off and dive in.

Getting there

British Airways (ba.com) has daily direct flights from London Heathrow. Brazilian airline TAM (tam.com.br) also flies direct from Heathrow. Cheaper tickets can usually be found with indirect flights on Iberia (iberia.com; via Madrid) and TAP (flytap.com; via Lisbon).

Mid-range

On a budget

Castelinho 38 (3) is an atmospheric guesthouse with an artistic bent that matches the bohemian neighbourhood nicely. From £67.

On arrival

After finding your bearings, head to Porcão Rios (4) (Avenida Infante Dom Henrique; porcao.com.br; set price £31), the last word in Rio’s all-you-can-eat churrasco meat restaurants. Several challenge for the crown, but this is the original and best. (Vegetarians note that the buffet is a never-ending source of salads – and that the app includes 39 other restaurants, including specialist vegetarian options. )

Morning

The açaí berry is now famous around the globe as an anti-oxidant superfood. On every other street corner in Rio, juice bars such as the excellent BIBI Sucos (5) will throw some guarana syrup in with the frozen fruit for a sweet, 300ml hit of pure Rio flavour that will set you up for a day's exploring. If that doesn't appeal, order one of several fresh juice options and a shot of coffee – the famous 'cafezinho'.

I always consider the cool of the morning the best time to time to hit Centro's museums and galleries Grab a taxi through Centro to beautifully reimagined Praça Mauá (6). The focus of the port's ongoing redevelopment, here the Museu de Arte do Rio (7) provides an exquisite visual history lesson from the discovery of the city to the present day, and the roof terrace affords some revealing views of the changes underway in the region.

Lunch

Walk down Rua Primeiro de Março to the Paço Imperial (8) on historic Praça XV square and have lunch in the attractive courtyard eatery of the former royal palace or in the small café set within its bookshop, surrounded by Brazilian literature, music and films.

Grab a metrô to Copacabana's Siqueira Campos station and head down the road of the same name to the beachfront (9). Walk along the promenade’s signature swirls towards Arpoador with Sugarloaf behind, rewarding yourself at posto 6 tower (10) with a fresh coconut water and a swim, or even an impromptu stand-up paddle lesson.

Afternoon

A late afternoon on the beach followed by sundowners are the perfect rewards for the earlier culture.

Having gazed at Sugarloaf (11) from Copacabana beach, it is time to take the cable car to the summit and enjoy the best sunset in the city. Take a taxi to Urca’s Praia Vermelha (12), from where the bonde cars begin their ascent, first to Morro da Urca and then Pão de Açucar itself. Order a caipirinha and watch in awe as the city lights begin to twinkle through the sea mist.

Urca’s dining options are limited, so take a cab to Leblon, home of some of the best restaurants in the city. Most only get going at 9pm, however, so do as the locals do and first grab a slice of Rio’s traditional boteco bar food. On the foodie’s favourite street Rua Dias Ferreira (13), young chef Felipe Bronze has opened a smart homage, Pipo, to the city’s greatest snacks, served with decent artisanal beer.

Evening

It is time to freshen up for the evening. Leblon’s Rua Dias Ferreira is blessed with some of city's best restaurants, after which live samba and bossa nova is the ideal soundtrack to the rest of the night.

For dinner, peruse the options on Rua Dias Ferreira – or simply head straight to the excellent CT Boucherie (14), where the Brazilian and Argentine beef is at its best and vegetarians will also find plenty to feast upon, all served up in a lively but refined setting.

After all that steak, if the party vibes and samba halls of Lapa seem a stretch too far, take a taxi back to Copacabana and the simple pleasures of Bip Bip (15). The bar might not look much, but the sweet sounds of bossa nova and samba that fill the air make for an unforgettable, utterly carioca end to an evening.