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So no luck with getting those screws out. The noid works fine the upper board does not light up. So I am not sure weather or not I should keep trying or just wait till the noid gives out, although this will just keep bugging me.

I do have extra frames so I was thinking of just cutting the frame off, but I am just afraid if I do that the screws may still stay stuck in.

So pretty much just wondering if I should go ahead and hack the frame off or if anyone else has any ideas?

Thanks,
Nik

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WooooHooo! Well just letting you guys know I got them dang screws off. I had to drill the heads off the screws, as they seemed to be JB welded to the frame. Luckily the threads were untouched and came right out after the heads were removed. So just a matter of replacing the frame screws.

Had to share, just in case anyone was wondering which I doubt anyone was.

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Hey Shocker gurus, I'm hoping you can help me identify a board. I picked up a used NXT yesterday and the LED is blue - steady blue for eyes on, blinking blue for eyes off. It also makes what I can only descripe as a chirping noise when the button is pressed (On, off, changing eye modes, etc). I don't recall stock shocker boards making noise. I took off the grips but could not see any brand name or anything written on the board. Before I pull the whole thing apart to get a look at it do any of you have any thoughts on what kind of board it might be?
Thanks so much!!

Does anyone know what this part is called or where I could pick one up? It is the trigger stop and my shocker didn't have one it when I received it and I am going to make the trigger magnetic so that I don't wear out my microswitch (again).

Hey everyone...
I'm going to be playing in a tournament in a month where it is PSP 12.5bps rule. I have a predator AFA 5.0 board, and was just wondering if I set setting 2 (mROF) to 12 and setting 1 (Fire mode) to 8 (PSP mode with soft ramping) if should limit ROF to 12 BPS with PSP ramping? As opposed to PSP 15 BPS? From my understanding adjusting mROF should set the ROF universally correct?

Rof cap should be a universal adjustment across all firing modes. Unless there is a switch or setting that negates it. Like older virtue boards had a 15 bps switch. And even if the board was adjusted lower, it will do 15. I don't think the predator boards had that feature though.

Does anyone know what this part is called or where I could pick one up? It is the trigger stop and my shocker didn't have one it when I received it and I am going to make the trigger magnetic so that I don't wear out my microswitch (again).

I have an old Ton Ton shocker that I recently got back up and running. It was shooting fine till the day I was actually going to take it to the field. I went to turn it on and nothing. Changed the battery, turned on but I turned it back off to put the grips back on. Then went to power it back on and it wouldnt turn on. Figured it may be the board changed that, and nothing even with a third new battery. the solenoid looks fine, grip screws not going into the upper board, the switch looks good and everything. Where is my issue with this gun? Only thing i could think of is wire harness connecting the boards is bad, both my lower boards are fried, or the solenoid is bad. Any help would be much appriciated.

My manual states what the eye delay does. But I also have "eye sensitivity" setting to which the manual doesn't address. What is eye sensitivity? Are there differences between that and "eye delay"? What would be the recommenepded setting to use for both when using a halo b v35 hopper?