Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX7 Review

Features

Keeping with the 'let's give it everything' theme, Panasonic has put virtually every feature imaginable on the GX7. Some of these features are old friends, such as Intelligent Auto mode, Intelligent Dynamic, and Intelligent Resolution. There are several new features of interest, such as tone curve adjustment, a 'silent mode', and a 'clear retouch' option which lets you delete unwanted subjects from a photo. Below we'll look at the most interesting features on the DMC-GX7.

Sensor-shift IS

The Lumix GX7 is Panasonic's first mirrorless camera to feature sensor-shift image stabilization. Previously, Panasonic built optical stabilization into most of their lenses (save for its prime and 7-14mm models), so this wasn't necessary. But by building image stabilization into the body, the GX7 also brings shake reduction to Olympus' Micro Four Thirds lenses (which don't have it, since Olympus' cameras have in-body IS as well).

We tried a pair of Olympus Micro Four Thirds lenses that don't have image stabilization (the 12mm and 17mm primes) and the in-body IS system worked as advertised (again, it only operates as the photo is taken). Many other lens mounts can be used with the GX7 and yes, that means that they'll have image stabilization for still shooting as well. Attaching an old Konica lens via an adapter worked fine, with the only change being that you must tell the camera what the focal length is.

The GX7 is the first Panasonic G-series camera to feature sensor-shift image stabilization.

The 16 megapixel Live MOS sensor is also a new design.

The downside? There's no shake reduction while you're composing a photo, so things can get wobbly when you're using a telephoto lens. In addition, the in-body IS system does not work in movie mode.

Tone curve adjustment

Another new feature on the GX7 is tone curve adjustment, which you'll also find on several Olympus mirrorless cameras, including the E-P5 and E-M1. There are four presets (standard, higher contrast, lower contrast, brighten shadows) plus three custom slots, all of which can be customized.

The tone curve adjustment lets you use the front and top dials to tweak contrast to your liking.

Any changes will be saved to one of the three custom slots.

The shadows and highlights can be adjusted from -5 to +5 in one-stop increments in either direction. The results are previewed in real-time on the LCD and EVF.

Shadows -5

Neutral tone curve

Highlights +5

Silent Mode

A feature that makes the DMC-GX7 a great 'stealth camera' is its silent mode. When activated, the camera switches from the mechanical shutter to the electronic one, disables all the blips and bleeps, and shuts off the AF-assist lamp.

The results are impressive. The camera is truly silent, to the point where a person standing right next to you cannot tell when a photo was taken. An additional benefit is that can you shoot considerably faster in burst mode: 10 fps at full resolution and 40 fps at 4 megapixel.

Banding can be an issue when using the GX7's electronic shutter in artificial lighting conditions. This particular photo was taken under fluorescent light.

ISO 2500, 1/200 sec, f/5.4

So what's the catch? The flash is unavailable, and the ISO range narrows to 200 - 3200. In addition, the slowest shutter speed you can use is 1 second. And, because the camera is using its electronic shutter, there's a risk of the rolling shutter effect (as the sensor effectively scans the scene, top to bottom), distorting moving subjects. There's also a risk of artificial light leaving banding across images as the scanning of the sensor captures the flickering of the lights.

Focus peaking

While the old DMC-GX1 (and video-focused GH3) lacked focus peaking, it's out in full force on the GX7. Focus peaking is for use in manual focus mode. When your subject is in-focus, it will be outlined by a color that 'glimmers'. You can use this tool to make very precise adjustments to the focus distance.

While difficult to see here, there are yellow lines showing what areas of the subject are in-focus.

There are two levels of sensitivity to choose from, aptly named low and high. You can also select the color of the outline: blue, yellow, or green. In low light, focus peaking can be difficult to see, as noise is often highlighted, rather than high-contrast regions. In good light, it works very well.

HDR

Another feature that the GX1 was missing is HDR, or high dynamic range. HDR combines a series of photos (usually three), each shot at a different exposure, into a single image with a wider range of tonal information. The idea is that it allows the capture and inclusion of more highlight information and shadow detail than a single exposure.

The first thing to know about HDR on the GX7 is that it's for JPEGs only. You must turn off Raw or Raw+JPEG to even access the HDR menu item. Once you're there, you can fire away.

There are four 'levels' of HDR to choose from: Auto, 1EV, 2EV, or 3EV. The larger the interval, the more pronounced the effect. You can also choose whether or not the camera tries to align the three images.

HDR off
ISO 200, 1/320 sec, f/6.3

HDR auto
ISO 200, 1/250 sec, f/5.6

The comparison above was taken with HDR set to 'Auto'. As you can see, the shadows get brightened quite a bit, while the correct highlight tone returns to areas that were clipped in the original. You will notice that the HDR version is a bit 'cropped' compared to the original (to give the camera flexibility to match slightly misaligned images) but that's a small price to pay for the improvement in contrast.

The last time we looked at the HDR feature on a Panasonic mirrorless camera was when we reviewed the DMC-GH3, and we found it did poorly if the was any movement within the scene. The GX7 does a lot better, with only a minor error occurring around the head of the security guard, towards the lower left of the shot. The HDR photo does seem to be softer than the original, as well.

The GX7 shoots fast enough that you won't need a tripod - at least in good light.

Another feature you can use to improve image contrast is i.Dynamic, which we'll cover on the Dynamic Range page.

Panorama

The Lumix DMC-GX7 has a 'Panorama Shot' feature, which has slowly been appearing on mirrorless cameras over the last year. The exception is on the Sony NEX cameras, which have had this 'sweep panorama' feature since the beginning, which isn't surprising, considering Sony was looking for ways to promote the speed advantages of the CMOS sensors it makes.

Taking panoramas is simple. Select the Panorama option from the Scene mode (which has a whopping twenty-four options, by the way) and pan the camera from left to right (or the direction of your choosing).

As you can see above, the results can be impressive. There are just a few stitching problems, as well as some muddy details on the 'tower' at the center of the photo.

One of very few stitching problems

Another stitching problem, plus some muddy detail on the bricks, which may have nothing to do with this being a panorama.

If you're shooting a panorama with a large amount of contrast, the camera will not dynamically adjust the metering across the scene.

If you want to add some 'style' to your panoramic images, the GX7 offers 18 'Creative Controls' (also available for stills) which lets you quickly adjust the color or apply special effects.

Stop Motion / Time Lapse

If you're a fan of Wallace & Gromit or The Nightmare Before Christmas, then you'll know what stop motion animation is. By taking a photo, slightly moving your subject, and taking another picture (repeatedly), you can obtain a choppy but effective animated movie.

On the GX7 you can take as many pictures as you'd like, and the camera will put them together into a video for you. The original stills are saved, as well. The camera can 'auto shoot' at set intervals (you'd better be quick) or you can take them at your own pace. The GX7 displays an overlay of the previous shot, so you can see exactly what's moved.

When you've finished taking pictures, you can save the results as an MP4 video. You can choose resolutions of up to 1080/60p, with frame rates ranging from 3 - 30 fps. Obviously, the quality of the animation depends on your skill, but here's a quick example from us:

Stop Motion, 18 shots, 1920 x 1080, 6 fps, MP4 format

Another, more common feature on the GX7 is time-lapse. Simply choose the start time, interval, and number of photos to be taken, and the camera does the rest. Just remember your tripod (and AC adapter if you're being ambitious).

Clear Retouch

Samsung has been toting the 'Photo Eraser' feature on their smartphones, and you can do the same thing on your GX7 using its 'Clear Retouch' option. The idea is that it lets you 'remove' unwanted subjects from a photo. The camera doesn't give very clear instructions on how to use this feature - the word 'trace' implies outlining, at least to us - but carefully running your finger over the item you want to remove will turn it red. Once that's done, the camera will grind away for a few seconds and then display the result.

If you're feeling a bit skeptical about this feature actually working, you should be. In our tests, results were pretty awkward. See for yourself:

Let's say that you want to remove that unsightly yellow pole from the photo.
ISO 200, 1/125 sec, f/5.6

Downsized crop, original photo

Downsized crop, Clear Retouch photo

After toying around this feature, we think you're better off using the clone tool in Photoshop or pretty much any basic image editing software, instead.

Wi-Fi

The Lumix DMC-GX7 offers a fairly elaborate Wi-Fi feature, which includes remote camera control from your smartphone. In order to take advantage of smartphone connectivity, you'll first need to download the Panasonic Image App for iOS or Android.

The most difficult part of the process is pairing your mobile device with the GX7, which can be accomplished in several ways. If your smartphone supports NFC (near-field communication), you can 'tap' the two devices together at a designated spot. Previous experience with Panasonic's NFC implementation has been frustrating, and while it's better on the GX7, we still saw quite a few connection failures. If you don't want to deal with NFC - or don't have a device that supports it - you can type the network details into your smart device.

Once connected, you can remotely control the GX7, with a good selection of shooting options. You can touch the screen to focus or meter, or turn on touch shutter which will take a photo instantly. Settings such as white balance, ISO, focus mode, and even the aperture and/or shutter speed can be adjusted (which is an unusually high level of control, for such cameras). If you're using a power zoom lens, that too can be controlled from the app. One thing you cannot do is switch shooting modes, which requires a trip to the 'real' mode dial.

Above you can see the various settings you can adjust when controlling the camera with your smartphone.

The quick menu offers less commonly used settings.

You can also transmit photos directly from the camera to another device as they are taken. In addition to a smartphone, photos can be sent to a PC, 'web service' (such as Facebook, YouTube, Flickr), Panasonic's cloud service, or compatible televisions. In order to share photos to social networking sites or cloud storage, you must sign up for Panasonic's LUMIX Club (since all images are uploaded there first), which is an exercise in frustration.

Browsing photos on the GX7's memory card using the Panasonic Image App.

If you don't want instant photo transfer, there are a couple of ways to get them from the camera to your smartphone after the fact. One way is to connect the two devices as if you're shooting, and then browse what's on the camera's memory card (shown above). Alternatively, you can browse through individual photos on the camera and the connect to your device to transfer the images. If you're using NFC, you can also 'tap' to transfer images.

Overall, the GX7's Wi-Fi feature sounds good on the surface, but the user experience and reliability could be a lot better.

I really like being able to do panoramas in camera. However I would prefer to pan the camera in portrait orientation rather than horizontal.I have seen reference to the orientation being selectable, but no where how to go about it.

Depends on your needs. I'd go for the GX7 for the following reason: smaller, better build quality, cheaper, larger viewfinder, faster flash-sync, faster shutter, way better remote app, lens also available from Olympus and other 3rd party makers as well as being able to adapt pretty any lens.

Just ordered the GX7. I haven't even owned a camera in 20 years and only button I used was the shutter. It all started when I just wanted to mount a camera on my air rifle to see paper targets through the scope....and then.....I started reading about all the new technology. $600 camera gets a ton of features these days. The tilting EVF and LCD are perfect for my rifle shooting activities but of course I didn't spend $600 just for that. This camera looks like something I can find many uses for and I am eager to play around with it and have some fun. I read many hours of tech articles, reviews, etc, and hope I made the right choice with GX7 MFT. Don't really see how I can go too wrong with it given decent pictures, many features, wi-fi, lens availability, low cost, tilt screens, manual controls, etc. I learned a lot about camera settings (on paper) and looking forward to experimenting with this camera and what it can do. This website has been a good resource.

I have recently bought the GX7 as a package with the 14-42, 45-150 and 20mm in the box. I "upgraded" from a Sony A33 which is 6 years old I think. My question is how can I get better images from the GX7. I am not a pro nor a novice but I feel as if I got "better" images from my old Sony with a 50mm f1.8 prime lense. The pics are more "dreamy", more film like, just nicer to look at than what I get from the GX7. Am I missing a trick?

In case you haven't already figured it out you need faster lenses with m43 in order to get what you may refer to as 'dreamy'... something like an olympus 45mm 1.8 will put your old sony to shame, you were comparing a prime (sony) to a couple of kit zooms and a pancake (optics are always compromised for size).

I used to think the same until I discovered what they meant by 'tearing'... if you haven't noticed it yet then don't bother trying to find out what it means, you'll never look at your EVF the same, but if you still want to know then read on, you've been warned....

The 'tearing' occurs not when you move the camera side to side but when you pan your line of sight within the evf from the left border to the right or vice-versa. If you do this quick enough (and it doesn't really take much) you'll notice there is a red green blue trail left behind your line of vision. If you still can't see it then be glad your eyes don't transmit information to your brain fast enough and keep shooting. :)

The GX7 is my third Lumix G camera and it definitely doesn't "use small apertures (rather than faster shutter speeds) in Program mode", as you stated in your review. Either the unit you tested had a malfunction or mine has an updated software. I'm an enthusiast of mirrorless cameras. I don't know if they are the "future of photography" because this is impossible to know. But it's obvious that SLR are the past because the mirror was adopted to solve problems of film photography, non existent in digital photography. I don't understand why Canon, for example, is so reluctant to accept that...

Hi,im still not sure if buying the a6000 or panasonic gx7. I need it for vacation, children, it should be good in low-light and at least fit in a jacket.

I actually prefer the a6000 so far cause better grip, larger sensor and the gx7 is supposed to use too low shutter speed at Aperture mode.However, i realised on ,,new comparison tool'' that the red/blue colour-stripes from the puppets at iso 3200/low-light still have full contrast with gx7, the sony is like mud....Also the autofocus is said to be better on the gx7. There is also a touchscreen (really big advantage?) and it has an electronic noiseless shutter.

In terms of lenses the mft may be a bit smaller but i dont think its a big deal, price is almost the same i think. I wont buy huge bunch of lenses anyway, probably the sel 20 2.8 and the sel 35 1.8 for the sony.

I just sold my A6000 , as for the grip , i do like the grip from the GX7 ,for me its better than the A6000 , i did try the EMII also but for big hands this grip is no good , touchscreen is also very nice .Panasonic has also a better range of optic,s i think .

Other advantages of the Gx7:The Silent mode, a600 doesnt even allow you to switch the fake shutter sound off...

It can make you mobile phone act as an external GPS to geotag your photos. The a600 doesnt have this feature, even that it would be quite quick for them to ad.

The tilting viewfinder is pretty nice at acoations. However it automaticly switches on when putting your eye close to, and switches off the screet. Tiling the viewfinder up prevents unwanted deactivation of the screen. This happens because the Gx7 hasa touchscreen and you really prefer that sometimes. Especially when you want to adjust something quick and want to point out exactly at the shot. Using arrows can take too long in some situations.

The GX7 is avaiable in both an oldschool silver and black and a modern look.

The GX7 has more lenses avalable.

I find the manual focus and zoom easier at the Gx7 than the a6000In my opinion, the gx7 design simply looks better abnd look more professionel and high quality

Im considering the GX7 , video is some what important to me , quality looks great but what about the stabilization (witch lens with IS is best for video) walking with the camera , is it any good ? I gues i won't be as good as the new E-MII but there is a big price difference between these camera,s so if it will come close i will get the GX7

Hi there. I have just bought the GX7 having upgraded from the GX1 which I have enjoyed using - except for having to have the external viewfinder.

My question is about wireless remote controls. I am assuming that Panasonic's own will be too expensive but all the other ones I look at don't mention the GX7 and have extra bits which attach to the camera to communicate the signal. GX7 has a built in wireless facility so does it need a different sort of wireless remote? And can anyone recommend a decently priced remote which works?

I'm not sure about wireless remote controls for the GX7 but I use my iPhone and Panasonic's app to control the camera wirelessly, which works very well. You can download the app for free from the App Store or Google Play.

It's an old review, but never to late to wonder about it..."Good for: Those seeking excellent photo and video quality...""Not so good for: ...video enthusiasts..."Huh?The video is great; just as good as my GH3 (and that is very good).Maybe the review is referring to the lack of IBIS in vid mode? Simple: use the same Panny lenses you would use with GH3 or GH4. Definitely a non-issue. Also, the GX7 has a fantastic sensor crop "Extended Tele" function. Zero loss of quality, still full HD, and a 2.4x extension of apparent focal length. 300mm is already 600mm equivalent; now it is over 1200mm. And the Panny in-lens IS is plenty good enough for hand-held 1080/60p vids of surfers half a mile out.

BTW, the EVF issue seems to be either user- or copy-related; I am very picky and have had zero problems. Love using the EVF for outdoor action shooting.

You can use the Quick Menu (button on the back of the camera).Push the Q menu button.Toggle L/R to the video setting (you can use control wheel and/or 4-way controller around the rear button), then Use down toggle to get into the setting, thenToggle L/R to get the speed you want. Takes about 5 seconds. You will love the vid quality of this camera. And 60p gives very nice slomo. I always shoot AVCHD 60p. It's great.

... Yes, there's that as well. Thanks for the insight. Still learning . Have only had it for one day, and have been more than pleased with it. And I agree with your above comment in regards to the video quality...been getting great results so far, using Oly lenses.

@Thatcannonguy yeah for some reason Panasonic don't allow you to change between PAL and NTSC recording, so your PAL GX7 can only do 50p/25p/24p. There is hacked firmware for older cameras (GH1/2 era) that let you switch between PAL and NTSC framerates, but so far no sign of any hacks for newer cameras.

Sorry if this will sound dumb, I have no experience yet with any four thirds camera and I am planning to get this unit next year. I just wanted to ask if this camera can accommodate Olympus Micro-Four Thirds lenses? Or do I need an adapter for it?

I am planning to buy this and a Olympus 45mm f/1.8 and I want to be sure it is compatible. Sorry if this has been asked already.

Yes, all micro four-thirds lenses are compatible with all micro four-thirds cameras. There has been some discussion of certain non-Olympus lenses causing banding at high ISOs with the Olympus E-M5 but I have not heard of similar issues with using Olympus lenses on Panasonic cameras.

You can use the Oly lenses, but remember that:1. GX7 IBIS isn't as robust as Oly,2. GX7 IBIS does not work in video mode.It is much safer to stick with Panny lenses since they all have IS and this works perfectly in ALL shooting situations with the GX7.

According to the manual (page 71 of the full version, page 27 of the basic version) you can set it up to see the same info on the LCD and the EVF. Press "Disp" button on back of camera, then choose "Monitor" display style.

I was going to order the GX7 but see they have released the LX100 which looks really nice but slightly limiting. The 4k video is really tempting. Now I am wondering if I should wait for the GX7 upgrade. I usually don't like these types of threads and apologize for it. Any guesses when the next version might be released?

Hello, I want to buy a new camera but I could'nt decide between Olympus Om-d E-m10 & Panasonic GX7 ... I take amateur video clip, for that I need manual control on video mode and focus peaking on video mode, I think they are in GX7 , but it hasn't image stabilisation on video mode, if I use 20 mm is it possible ? And has GX7 selectable color on photo or video mode , do you know ? They are important for me, manuel control and IS on video mode, and focus peaking and selectable color mode on video mode and timelapse mode ... Olympus omd em10 hasn't focus peaking on video and selectable color on video ... And I wonder that again Olympus omd em10 has manuel control on video mode ?

Panasonic has better video quality and controls. (I sent back an E-M1 due to very poor video IQ.) If you're going to shoot hand-held video, you will probably want to get a Panasonic lens so you can have IS. I've shot a lot of video (including one set of clips that ended up on a DVD) hand-held with a GH3 and Panny 45-175mm and also 100-300mm, no problems at all, even at full zoom. Use the EVF (that's why I went mirrorless in the first place) and use your body like a tripod with the camera securely held close to your face. With an unstabilized 20mm you probably could get away with hand-held provided you don't have (a lot of) stationary shots. But it really seems better to get what you need and get a Panny lens. The Panasonic video is just much better--great detail and 60p makes for very smooth footage in slomo.

So I'm looking at the GX7, A6000, and OM-D E-M10. I think I'm leaning towards the m4/3 due to larger selection and seemingly better quality/value of the lenses. So that leaves the GX7 and E-M10. From what I can tell the GX7 has better video capabilities but does not employ the IBIS when recording video. Realistically, without IS I would probably get better video from the E-M10 simply because shaking would render video nearly useless with any kind of zoom. However, the E-M10's 1080/30 video recording with no option for 24p or 720/60 is stupid. So my question is this, if using the GX7 to record video and the LENS has image stabilization, is the IS deactivated for both body and lens? Or would this be a possible solution assuming I buy a lens with OIS? Thanks!

No IBIS in video only hurts with non-IS lenses. Panasonic lenses have built-in IS which will still function with all modes of the GX7. Unless you already own Oly lenses, this should not be a problem. The Panny 45-175mm and 100-300mm mft lenses are excellent for hand-held video at all focal lengths.

Quote:"The GX7's EVF can tilt upwards by up to 90 degrees (though it can't be pulled toward you), and we're not entirely sure why you'd need that, considering that the LCD right below it can do the same thing."Personally I use the tilting feature of the Vf-4 on my Olympus pen and XZ-2 and using it more and more over time. I assume I'm not the only one. I think it's easy to think of the benefits of a bigger image in eye-view, but without having to go down yourself. That Dpreviewers don't understand that, means that they should study this more and learn the advantage over a tilting lcd, instead of bashing it's use in their reviews.

I just compared GX-7 RAW TIFF with JPEG using Silkypix to apply adjustments and I'm very impressed (again!) Although the RAW doesn't really show much difference in definition at 200% (on this cheap monitor) the increase in vibrancy and mid tone detail is very noticeable. The 'film' setting reminds me of 'Velvia.'

In a few weeks I'll be able to compare the kit zoom with a Minolta Prime 50mm. I think this camera warrants a prime - I'm saving for the 20mm unless someone here can recommend a better lens.

The other issue with the 20mm is/was (they might have improved in the mk2 model) the not-so-smooth manual focus ring. I have the same issue with the 14mm. I never have these issues with Olympus lenses and so assume that the 25mm 1.8 has a much better manual focus ring, similar to the one on the 45mm.

After haunting the reviews here and elsewhere I have purchased the GX-7. The ability to compare camera features here has made my choice much easier.I wanted a viewfinder and I find the Lumix EVF clear and eminently useable.

I find the need to pull the LCD screen out to access the USB annoying but once I hook it to wi-fi that won't be an issue.

My first test has been comparing RAW with JPEG high and frankly the difference is very small. RAW is only just noticeably cleaner at high enlargement but for me it's not worth the extra time to convert and the extra file size.

LOVE the silent mode. Very impressed with touch screen focus.

The camera seems to underexpose based on the histogram but no doubt that can be adjusted somewhere.

Early days but it's ticking the box as a replacement for my D60 as a travel camera.

I noticed the histogram was shifted to one side. Somewhat later I've discovered that there was an EV adjustment set, duh, presumably while I've been familiarising with the controls. There's a lot to learn. I'm generally finding it an easy and intuitive camera to use. I love the ability to flip the screen for ground level shots.

I have over the past few weeks followed this site closely and read many of the reviews for mirrorless cameras which I plan to buy for me and my wife.

I have narrowed the choice down to the Olympus OM-D E-M10 and the Lumix GX7. Both camera's got raving reviews/ratings.

I don't like the price for the GX7 quite as much as that of the E-M10. Also no IS for videos is also not great. On the other hand, my wife really wants to have in-camera panoramic stitching which the E-M10 does not have, and although videos are image-stabilized, the fps is only 30. What is one to do??!

Think carefully about whether you are going to do videos using lenses with no lens-IS. This basically means prime lenses. And even then it is only an issue if not using a tripod or support. For serious video, always use a support, so you can pan smoothly.

But think: videographers run in masses to Panasonic for their cameras, yet none of them have IBIS for video. Olympus bodies, all with IBIS, are spurned by videographers. What does this tell us about the importance of IBIS for quality video work?

For hand-held video (if you insist on no support), all the Panasonic zoom lenses have IS. There is no problem. And the two f/2.8 'pro' zooms allow sufficient foreground/background separation for good effects.

Panasonic say the high video data rates on their sensors necessitate a fixed sensor. This maybe is why the Olympus bodies are relatively crippled for video. Olympus can't afford a static sensor for video, because they don't have any lenses with IS. Ha!

Why are Olympus cameras more popular than Panasonic, you ask? The answer is no doubt complex, but one simple factor is that Olympus have a long legacy and high quality reputation for still photography cameras. Notice how their digital m43 range is named after their legacy cameras such as PEN and OM. Panasonic only started making cameras in 2001 IIRC. Still photographers do tend to go by name and reputation rather than be objective about products. Hence the ongoing domination by Canon and Nikon.

Until recently, Olympus also had a reputation for their nice colours. They might not have been accurate, but they were widely liked. Panasonic were not so widely loved for their colours. Those days are in the past. The modern Panasonic cameras are top notch for colour production and easily the match of the Olympus cameras. In fact, the current top model Olympus camera uses a Panasonic sensor!

Since you are weighing up factors for a purchase, let me weigh in with praise of the GX7's silent mode. I absolutely love it, and so do other buyers. I agree with others who say that, having used it, they don't want to ever have a camera again that does not have it! On the street, in quiet rooms, ceremonial occasions, there are so many situations where it takes all the stress out of photography and makes better photos too. It also completely eliminates the risk of shutter shock. You won't find this feature in any of the Olympus models on offer today.

Here's the biggest reason in my book -- the tilting EVF. Not so much because it tilts (although that's a nice bonus) but because it doesn't add much in the way of bulk to the camera. It's both compact AND full-featured.

There's a saying that "the best camera is the one you have with you," and if you can take a great camera with you more often, then you'll take more and better pictures. The difference between the OM and GX7 body styles might not seem like a big deal, but now with the pancake zoom lens (or, better, the pancake prime lenses), the tilting EVF and a built-in pop-up flash, this could be a truly pocketable camera without any real compromises.

If only someone could make a killer f2.8 telephoto lens that retracts into a pancake, then that would be just about perfect.

Having used this great camera for more than four months on an almost daily basis I am still impressed with the many quality features it offers (excellent sensor, a convincing UI using buttons and touch screen, super fast X Sync @ 1 / 320s helps me shooting indoors portraits, tiltable flash, great EVF, in-body stabilization). The last camera which I found equally impressive was the E-510 (in 2005?). It's good to see how Panasonic has progressed its G series in the past few years (I know this is a GX but it reminds me much more of the G6 than of the unimpressive GX1). Combine this beauty with a Pany 20mm and an Oly 45mm and you have one powerful package.

Using prime lenses I almost get too much light under some daylight conditions. For some reason the ISO range only starts at ISO 200 which may mean one has toa) stop down a bit (e.g. F1.8 -> F2.5) orb) use the extended ISO range (going down to ISO 125)

Interesting question...beings that i have very limited sight and constantly use voiceover on my iPad to read words, might when NFC function connecting GX7 to my iPad, might it read words and data on LCD/EVF on camera??? You would not believe how much more accessable the camera would be to operate.

HELP - GX7 makes grinding noise when turned on and then display message to "Please turn camera off and then on again." I do, but same thing happens. Looked at sensor and it flutters but then stops before message is display. have been searching online for hours and can't find any discussion on this. anyone have any ideas?

I had G6 for a week, liked all features of camera except tiny rear , non tactile buttons. Also disapointed it did not have live exposure preview in manual mode. How similar or different is GX7 regarding these two issues?

How deep in the menu for live exposure preview? I would prefer using LEP each and every shot, needing to view exact showing before shuttering. Can it be left on, or do i have to go into menu each shot?can a button be assigned?

This Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX7 has pretty good features! It will definately please any buyer out there. However there is a newer model out which has not yet been released and is now available for preorder!It is definately worth the wait with superb features like 4K video and new auto focus technology.Check out the review! :) http://1stdigitalcamerasreviews.blogspot.com.au/

Let's be clear. The rating was 79% and silver, which is quite good. I agree about the items you mention, but you've left out what for the reviewer seemed like the killer point - the rainbow tearing in the viewfinder. BUT he said that if you don't see this then GX7 might be fine for you. Much earlier on this thread it was explained that gold is not based on points - it's subjective, for something that seems special. Reviews are not just about spec sheets - we've all picked up something with great-sounding specs but been disappointed because it wasn't magic for us, or on the other hand loved a gadget even though the specs or reviews were not great. I too thought the GX7 was for me, to replace my GH1, but the review made me think. Then when I tried one in a store (have you?) the "rangefinder" layout wasn't love at first sight (no rainbow effect though). I may still buy one. But the aim of an expert review is to give both evidence and personal opinions - not just help with the marketing.

If the rainbow effect was a 'killer point', nobody would sell a DLP projector, which has the same effect for similar reasons despite a different technology. Yet, guess what: 50% of the world's projectors are DLP type.

There are several reasons why DLP projectors are so popular despite their 'killer point' negative of the rainbow effect. Firstly, only about 5% of people are susceptible. Secondly, it is only a minor distraction at worst, hence many of the 5% still own DLP and don't get upset about it. Thirdly, it is not there 100% of the time, especially for a still camera! Fourthly, many of the 5% stop seeing it after using it for a while.

It is bizarre to mark a camera down for this. Nobody reviewing DLP projectors marks every one of them down for it. The GX7 EVF has better colours and resolution than any competing EVF. It is a worthy EVF, comparable on the top tier of EVFs, with a different technology offering pros and cons. Buyer choice. No reason to deduct points.

@Adrian Harris, that's fine IYHO, but the GX7 *will* have better resolution (count the dots, 2764,000 vs. 2359,000) and better colour (nearly 100 percent Adobe RGB colour space, not possible with the A77's LCD technology). Which is all I ever said. Some others are bigger and/or brighter, that is a tradeoff, and buyers can choose whichever aspects are most important to them -- but harsh to say it is not even worthy.

I find the cons justifying not giving it a golden award ludicrous. Who uses P mode? Or actually do RAW conversions in-camera? IBIS seems pretty good as well, maybe not at the OM1-5 level, but does any body at thsi price level carry a better one?This looks like a brilliant camera.

I love this camera so far. It does everything I want, everything I need, and I don't find any of the cons to actually be cons for me. The EVF has not been a problem for me, especially because mine came with the little rubber extender cup. It's fantastic.

BE AWARE PEOPLE OF LUMIX GX7This camera has the mini HDMI port locked! You cannot use the HDMI port for LIVE work. Only playback mode ! Their website says mini HDMI output but it hides the fact it's locked! FALSE ADVERTISING﻿

It's only real disadvantage is that "Fuji X-Trans sensor is damn good at higher ISO".I think DpReview should put this in the Cons section. Though, I know its not Pany's fault if Fuji knows how to really make sensors ;)

After sitting two months tossing between this one and Fuji XE-2, I just ordered Pany GX7! Whatever the small cons are, this camera is a level above the rest, as an overall package!

At one hand no camera is perfect; on the other you can't go wrong with any camera these days (Except Canon APSCs) ;)

well. I'm also the one tossing between XE-2 and GX7. By thinking of overall package/function, i think GX7 will be better choice. but my heart still toward XE-2 due to the IQ...i like the color from Fuji much more than other such as Pany and Oly EM-1. (by review samples)

I'm puzzled as to why there is marked difference in sharpness and contrast between the Oly omdem5 and the Pan gx7 test images. They do test with the same lens, right? Why would the Oly be sharper then? I'm not sure I get it - same sensor size, same bayer pattern, both have olpf... I see nothing to explain the softness of the gx7 other than bad focus?

I don't think everyone sees this "marked" difference. But, if you are in the market, why don't you go to a store and try both cameras for yourself, see what your experience is. These reviews here are no longer reliable or objective.

Hi there Timmbits, I have both cameras and use both Oly and Panny prime lenses. I also use Oly-lens on Panny cam and vice versa. I get exactly the same PERFECT image quality from both cams with whatever lens I attach. So I think you can relax. The question seems to be rather academic.I do notice, however, that the GX7 review seems rather biased against panny. Wonder why ?

I am almost sure that the OMD review was the last done with the Zuiko 50 mm macro while both GX7 and EM1 were done with the Panleica 45 mm instead. At base iso, EM1 and GX7 seem to me almost identical in the dprewievs test.

In my own tests between Epl5 and GX7, using the Panasonic 20mm I find better corner resolution with the Pana. I was rather surprised witth this finding as I didn't expect it.

> I'm puzzled as to why there is marked difference in sharpness and contrast between the Oly omdem5 and the Pan gx7 test images….<

JPEG: different companies have different JPEG engines. If one puts higher priority in noise reduction, that may reduce sharpness and contrast.

RAW: the results vary depends on the RAW processor being used. I use Apple Aperture (mostly) and it destroyed the sharpness of GX7 RAW images. Same images processed through Lightroom resulted in MUCH greater details in higher ISO (>800) images or in shadow areas. This has been documented by others as well.

When the reviewer states he would rather use the rear screen than the viewfinder, he doesn't take into account wearers of reading glasses.To use the screen would mean having to wear glasses, whereas the viewfinder means no specs required.

the cons............1.In-body stabilization not available for image composition.That's only an issue on long focal lengths. Most of these lenses have in lens stabilisation that DOES work for image composition2.Camera tends to use small aperturesThen use aperture priority mode. 3.no sensor is in movie modeWell got to give you that one that is kinda annoying since fast primes that look great in movie are mostly unstabilized(20mm f1.7, 45mm F1.8 and so on)4.Strong 'rainbow' tearing effect in EVFTried it in the store, and it's not that bad.5.EVF is hard to see outdoors, adds bulk to camerahard to see outdoors?! if your not wearing glasses this is just plain nitpicking.adds bulk?! it's the smallest solution with an EVF this is a pro on this camera.6.No in-camera Raw conversionRaw is meant to be processed on PC anyway.7.Lacks headphone and external mic ports for video shootersThis is not a video tool. And the on board mics are good.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdQ3hVb9qug

So your flippant dismisal of the issue of not being able to see the EVF outdoors (your point number 5) is plain silly given that for a great many people how a camera functions when wearing glasses is VERY important (and I actually regard it as absurd that camera companies design cameras, even expensive cameras, with viewfinders that cater for young folk with good vision when in fact the likelihood is that the people who have the money to buy are older)

No IBIS in movie mode ?I just took some video footage using the Leica Summilux 25mm f1.4 non-stabilized lens. Tried to make my hands shake, panned horizontally and vertically etc. The resulting movie came out looking pretty good. So I wonder if this "Con" is really true ?Does anyone have more detailed knowledge ?

Those of us who are older, with presbyopia, cannot focus on close images without reading glasses. This is the biggest problem with using an external display, because it requires you to focus on a close image. When using the EVF, you are focusing on an image at infinity, so no reading glasses are needed. Yes, if you need distance correction, you will need glasses, but if you don't need distance correction (I've had cataract surgery and an implant), this camera's EVF is great.

I totally support your sentiments BarnET. In fact I posted a very similar comment on Nov 18 -- which I have copied below since dpreview comments are un-linkable.

The comments about age-related eyesight are completely wrong: read Mr Sullivan's post for the right info.

If you do need eyeglasses for distant viewing, like I do, the GX7 EVF actually offers a better experience than the E-M1 or VF-4, because I can still see the whole image in the GX7 with my eyeglasses on, whereas with the other EVFs the image is so large that one cannot see it all while wearing eyeglasses.

Secondly, although it is true that the GX7 view finder shows too many reflections while wearing eyeglasses and viewing directly into sunlight, Panasonic has provided fully sufficient solutions to this. There is an eye-cup available that I use and it works really well. Or you can tilt the eyepiece upwards and therefore look downwards into the view finder and not directly into the sun. Solved.

I support the 'mean spirited review' comments. How on earth does this camera get the same score as an Olympus camera that inexplicably causes unexpected BLURRINESS IN STILL IMAGES!??! And that has NO EVF AT ALL!??! And POOR VIDEO??!!!Think about it.

Look at these 'negatives' according to dpreview:

*Too* customizable. (even though the defaults are 'just right')

No in-camera RAW. (guys, that is not a serious feature. Refer Canon's 'print' button)

The specs say that it has 1.39 (.70X APS-C equivalent) magnification — and this is the number you use in your graphic that compares the relative sizes of viewfinders. However, unlike the cameras you are comparing it to, the GX7 viewfinder has a 16:9 aspect ratio. 3:2 and 4:3 are crops from this.

The rectangle in your graphic looks to be close to 4:3 in aspect ratio. I am confused. Is the GX7 really .70X when displaying a 4:3 image?

It seemed smaller than that when I tried it.

I really like the form factor and handling of this camera. The M1 is bigger and quite a bit more expensive.

The thing that is giving me pause is the GX7 viewfinder. I have to try really hard to see even a hint of tearing, so this does not bother me. I presume that the $15 eyecup will cure the ambient light problem. But, indoors in the camera store, the GX7 viewfinder image seemed to be smaller and appreciably less "natural" than the M1 viewfinder image.

I have been using it for a while and yes you cannot use the whole view finder. I even chose the version where the shooting info is around the image not on it so the image is cropped even further so I can see it all. That being said I do not care. The resolution of the LVF is high enough that even using the cropped version does still look pretty good. I have no problems with the LVF.

The eye censor is a little bad though. it would have been much better if they put the sensor on the other side. Accidental triggering would be lot less.

I also like the form factor, the price and the looks of the GX7 to M1 and I am pretty happy with my choice.

If I select 16:9 the margins are visible but just. If I put on 4:3 I can see everything. I wear glasses.

One question I have for people who have problem with ambient light and margins views, is how far off do you look through the eyepiece? I ask this because I don't have the problems you have any more than I have with any other camera. Ok, nikon F3HP was awesome but that was exception.

It sounds to me if people are treating the LVF as if it were waist level finder.

I am like kpaddler: I wear eyeglasses and can see the whole 'photo' image at 4:3. With the E-M1 and VF-4 I cannot see the whole image with eyeglasses on, as the image is too large in relation to the angle I can see.

I really think dpreview needs to update the video specs on all your reviewed cameras. I'm sure many viewers would like to see, more details like, What is the signal out, Progressive, Interlaced, is it 4.2.0, or 4.2.2, 8bit, 10bit, Compressed, Uncompressed, dirty video, or clean (No On screen Info).

What is the Mbps for each recording format? What is the audio recording format?Is the sensor info read by line scans or the whole sensor. CMon Man!

High quality prints, I believe, are made at 300 dpi (dots per inch). This is why Nikon states that the maximum print size for their resolution flagship D800 is 24.5 x 16.4 inches, quite a bit smaller than what you request, and this is a camera with twice the resolution of what the GX7 delivers.

Let's start by acknowledging that "very sharp prints" is a very subjective category. For years I was a custom printer at several labs. I enlarged a few 35mm negs to nearly 6' X 4'. They were good exposures and held up very well. A few years ago, before 4/3, I was in China with a Canon Powershot S70 1/1.7 sensor (I recall) 7MP. I exhibited a dozen prints enlarged to 16X20. Most of my friends assumed they were taken with my Leica M6 (this was the first time I shot in digital, 2005). Now, I could tell the difference, but the point is, they were very crisp and sharp. Since 2009 I have been shooting with the GF1, I printed a section of a file up to what would be about 20X30 and it was beautiful, yes, sharper than the 16X20s. It was a "meaty" negative, shot on a sunny day. This obviously helps. Here are the China shots on my website, not sure if it will help you in all of this. http://visualquotations.com/China/china.htmlBottom line, like BolleDuc says, I wouldn't worry about it.

First of all the sensor on GX7 is just a little smaller than AP-C. so it actually is pretty big enough.

Also 16MP is large enough even for much larger prints. I have printed a 150cm x 100cm (59in x 39in) with a 12mp d300 and even though you do not get 300dpi the print was really good.

You do not look at a print that size with a magnifying glass. Also when you print that size the lens becomes much more important. I have also printed a 150cm x 100cm with a D800 even though the print is better with 3 times the pixels the lens was not as sharp.

The GX7 does have a eyepiece diopter adjustment.

So to summerise you can have large prints with GX7 but you also need a good lens with it

The need for 300 DPI to get good prints is misleading if not a myth. 300 DPI may be the theoretical limit on certain print types but I have found 180 to 200 DPI to be a better gauge to determine "practical" largest print without extensive processing. That said, the 16 MP 4/3 sensor should handle 16x20 print size easily with good exposure and good glass.

Given the average resolution of the human's eye that is roughly 1 minute of arc, 300dpi is good to look at a picture that is about ... 25 centimeters away ! The purpose of 30x20 inches enlargements is not to be seen that close... So if you look at a picture on a wall that is 1 meter away, print resolution can be 4 times lower, that is to say 75 dpi... Then the resolution of the image can be as low as 30x75 by 20x75 pixels, that is to say 3.375 megapixels...

I have a REAL problem.I kept getting real bad pictures in low light from my GX7.Found the simple cause after long research: When holding the cam normally, my middle finger blocks the AF-assist lamp !!But I can't find a place to put the finger without almost breaking it or dropping the cam.Does anyone else have this problem or maybe some workaround tips ?Much appreciated.