Diamond Guide

Buying a diamond can sometimes feel like mine field with the jargon, the terms, the different prices, the list goes on. Formed millions of years ago in conditions each diamond is as unique as a snowflake, therefore at KASHKA we’ve been helping our customers find the perfect diamonds. Our team of GIA trained gemologists help you to understand what to look for when selecting your perfect diamond for that special someone.

Until the middle of the twentieth century, there was no agreed-upon standard by which diamonds could be judged. GIA created the first, and now globally accepted standard for describing diamonds: Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat Weight. At KASHKA we use the GIA grading system for our diamonds. Today, the 4Cs of Diamond Quality is communicated in a universal language that helps to categorise the diamond, helping you to find the right one.

All images Courtesy Gemological Institute of America (GIA)

Colour

GIA Colour Scale

Diamonds naturally vary in colour, with diamonds the grading is actually done based on the lack of colour, the more colourless a diamond is the more rarer it is. Diamonds are graded on a scale from D (colourless) to Z (which has a yellow tint).

At KASHKA we only hand select exceptional diamonds in the near colourless range (D-J), with most of our customers choosing G ( near colourless) for their bespoke order.

Beyond the colour grade Z; diamond colours move in to Fancy Coloured diamonds which are available in a range of hues but are exceptionally rare, only one in 10,000 diamonds has a fancy colour. If you are interested in Fancy Coloured diamonds, please contact us on [email protected] to find out more information.

Clarity

GIA Clarity Scale

Clarity simply refers to the tiny, natural imperfections that occur in some diamonds. Almost all diamonds have tiny imperfections. Diamonds with few or no imperfections receive the highest clarity grades. As diamonds are created under immense pressure and heat, it is only natural for some stones to host unique features; also know in gemologist speak as external characteristics known as ‘blemishes’ and internal characteristics known as ‘inclusions’.

There are eleven grading categories to define the clarity of a diamond, naturally the fewer the inclusions, the more beautiful the diamond will be. This is because sometimes inclusions can interfere with the way the light refracts through a diamond impacting its brilliance.

At KASHKA we only tend to use diamonds graded S1 or higher – where any inclusions are invisible to the naked eye for our bespoke collections.

NOTE THAT: We will only use Heavily Included diamonds for our Salt and Pepper diamond collection range, which are heavily included and also feature a darker colour ranging in shades of silky grey due to the inclusions. Salt and Pepper Diamonds are not graded like traditional Diamonds. The gems are rough-cut and raw, and the beauty is that no two are ever the same.

Cut

The most technical aspect of the diamond is how it’s cut. Of all the 4Cs, this is the most technical and complex to analyse and grade. This is also the only element of the 4Cs to be completely man made and relies entirely on skilled craftsmen to transform a rough diamond to a gleaming polished diamond.

The shape of rough diamond as well as the proportions of the facets will be determined to create the perfect stone. With the correct cutting procedures light will enter the stone and reflect from the top of the table; this in return will give the diamond that sparkle effect.

The better a diamond is cut, the more sparkle (brilliance) it will have. This doesn’t mean the literal shape such as Pear, marquise, baguette etc ( these are known as Fancy Shapes), but rather the way the proportions, symmetry, and polish deliver the shimmering return of light only possible in a diamond.

A well cut diamond will flash Fire, Brilliance and Scintillation, it’s easily recognisable, it will take your breath away.

There are 5 grading scale for the Cut of a diamond.

At KASHKA we only hand select exceptional diamonds in the Very Good / Good cut range with most of our customers choosing Very Good for their bespoke orders.

Shapes

Cut and Shape are two different things and should not be used interchangeably but Diamonds can be cut in to different shapes. Round Brilliant is the most well known shape and associated with the modern world and has been popular since the 19th century. While diamonds can be cut in any shape, there are 9 popular Fancy diamond shapes: Princess, Cushion, Oval, Emerald, Pear, Marquise, Asscher, Radiant and Heart shape.

Carat

This is the measure of how much a diamond weighs. The carob seed is the original unit for weighing diamonds, from which the word ‘carat’ is derived. The seeds of the Carob were used on precision scales as units of weight for small quantities of precious gemstones because of their uniform size. The weight of an average carob seed is 200 milligrams. The weight of one carat is precisely 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams.

Ct. Weight – ‘Points’ Carat weight is also expressed as “points” to describe diamonds which weigh less than 1ct.:

1 ct. = 100 points

¾ ct. = 75 points

½ ct. = 50 points

¼ ct. = 25 points

A hundredth of a carat is also called a point.

The carat weight does not reflect the size of a diamond. When there is more than one diamond on a piece of jewellery such as on a diamond cluster ring or a three stone pendant, the stones are weighed together rather than individually and often noted as total diamond weight.

The impact the 4 C’s carry on the quality of your diamond will play a big role in the price you pay for your jewellery and also how valuable it is.

5th C

Finally, though not officially a fifth C, but more widely available and recommended is Certification.

We believe in building trust and lasting relationships with our customers. For us it’s about passion and care, helping you create the jewellery you will treasure for a whole lifetime.

To prove the value and authenticity of your gems, we work with certified diamonds only and offer the certificate of a trusted institution.

Please note that for our ready to wear jewellery collections set in 9kt and 14kt gold, we only use Very good, brilliant cut, H/SI colour and clarity and range in size from total diamond weight 0.01 ct to 0.10 cts

Lab Grown Diamonds

The 21st century combines craftsmanship with technology to bring a fresh approach to a traditional industry. Due to consumer demand and awareness, for some customers concerned about environmental and human rights issues that can occur in the natural stone sector, we can offer man made diamonds, also known as Lab grown Diamonds.

Lab-grown diamonds have the same physical characteristics and chemical makeup and exhibit the same fire, scintillation, and sparkle as natural mined diamonds. They’re made from a carbon seed placed in a high pressure high temperature chamber. The process creates particles that can eventually crystallise into diamonds in weeks.

Lab diamonds offer excellent value, and are an eco-friendly choice as they do not require any diamond mining. Please do contact our bespoke team to discuss options for your lab grown diamond piece of jewellery.