When you’re ballsy enough to call your pizzeria Best Pizza, you’ve really gotta walk the walk. Fortunately for this month-old wood-oven pizzeria in Williamsburg, the moniker is a study in truth in advertising. Ladies and gents, I am excited about this place. It’s putting out some great, no-nonsense wood-fired pies that defy easy categorization,* with a style of pizza that gives nods to old-school New York–slice joints and coal-oven Neapolitan-American places like Totonno’s or Patsy’s East Harlem. The backstory: Best Pizza opened in the space that used to house the well-received Brooklyn Star, which was helmed by Momofuku alumnus Joaquin “Quino” Baca. Brooklyn Star closed for a spell after a fire damaged the place — sparked by the very oven that now cooks some great New York–style pies… Pinello, along with assistants Akhil and Gavi, makes three basic pies that are always on offer: a regular pie, a grandma pizza, and a refreshingly light white pie — all fantastic. Bensonhurst-raised, Pinello comes to Best Pizza after having worked at Pulino’s Bar & Pizzeria since its opening. Prior to that, he worked at Giacomo’s Pizza in the Poughkeepsie area after having graduated from the Culinary Institute of America. The slices and pies at Best Pizza are a sort of gestalt of his slice-joint experience and his formal training.