A TRIBUTE TO THE MEN

PARIS–On my way out of the show preceding Issey Miyake 's Fall 2011 Men's collection, I stopped some serious fashion editors and asked if I'd see them there? I would not. "He doesn't do it anymore," one told me. "He" being Miyake himself, the techno wizard who merged science and fashion to...

For Issey Miyake Men spring/summer 2012 the brand decided to start fresh. There is an new design team and the brand name is now ISSEY MIYAKE MEN. The line is targeted towards today's hipster. The garments concentrate on further exploring function,comfort and wear, the team continue to create...

Susan in front of grafitti messages scrawled by models and the collection's designer
Dai Fujiwara, head designer for menswear at Issey Miyake
At the show's end, Dai Fujiwara–designer of Issey Miyake's men's collection–scrawled a message on the back wall, and each model added his own...

Susan Tabak home
The Issey Miyake men's collection was shown in a whitewashed atelier lit by skylights, just inside the arcade surrounding the Place des Vosges. This simple space made a perfect backdrop for clothes that played fast and loose with all the basic menswear conventions–but did so...

un moment avec Lee
Paris, France
With a whole new design team and a new name, Issey Miyake Men, sent a fresh and light collection down the spring summer 2012 runway. In the spirit of new beginnings and broad horizons, what better theme for this new phase of Miyake's menswear line than...

Susan Tabak home
Issey Miyake, as a brand, dates from 1970–and those famous pleats made their debut in the '80s–but lately, various design teams have worked hard to maintain Miyake's signatures while pushing the collection forward. And for many seasons now (this one included), editors and...

Issey Miyake: Although the house's new menswear designer hasn't been revealed
yet, the collection was nevertheless Miyake-like and modern, including ultra baggy pleated trousers worn with light jackets for a soft, relaxed suit look. There were black and blue printed pants, paired with...

Translating Ann Demeulemeester's dark and poetic message for a new generation is Sébastien Meunier's task at the house the cult namesake designer left two years ago.
The appealing spiderweb knits, loose striped pants, somber soft tailoring, and feather jewelry were faithful to the house's...

The palette was strict Demeulemeester black and white, with flashes of naturals and metallics in the embroidery. It was quiet, and respectful to the house codes, with only a touch of rebellion in the soundtrack as Brian Eno's Passing Over declared, "All pastness gone, To the crumbled...

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
The End
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Ann Demeulemeester has announced that she is leaving the brand that bears her name, after 26 years. Without specifying her reasons for leaving, the Belgian...