read the bit about removing anodising , is it posible to reanodise a frame when it was originally anodised from new ? Once removed and re-done if posible, does it cause any structrual problems to welds etc..??

Thanks for your input.. Have found somewhere which will anodise a frame and cranks for Â£ 50.00 -Â£ 60.00, but I need to remove the paint that was sprayed over the top of the original anodising.. they have told me I need to remove all the paint then they can re-anodise the frame, but as they are not specialists in frame renovations etc, was unsure about the whole process and the intended frame is quite rare, and thin alloy tubed .. if your lookin for your frame to be anodised gives a pm and will pass details on, if you need a few bits done the same time as me, may even be able to negotiate a better price with the company...

IMHO that's not a lot of $$ if tyhey do it right and then it's the best finish bare none. But beware that most coloured anodised finishes are somewhat transparent, and some a lot. That means quality of the end result will depend on the quality of surface preparation. Blemishes and scratches will show and hence in my opinion a well used frame will require significant effort to get it right.

If it were my rare frame I'd try something well used but common first.

I'd be interested to know who you've had a quote from, can you PM me the details.

I have to agree, I've had lots of stuff anodised (used to make custon bits for radio control cars), success is all down to the surface preparation of the component. If you want a nice shiny finish, say like the type you got on the old GTs, then the frame has got to be polished to that finish first.

I'm in the same boat to a certain degree, I need to strip the existing paint off the frame and then prep it before it's sent off.
I'm considering doing something a little different though and going for a satin finish as the frame was never anodised originally and I haven't got the issuse of matching stuff. This is a bit easier, but you still can't have any scatches on the surface or they'll show through.

Your best bet, if the frame is so rare, might be to get the anodisers to do the perparation for you and if they won't, find one that will.

I had a few quotes, one of which was around Â£ 350.00 but would be likely to be more dependant on time this was for the guy to 'polish' the frame prior to anodising it, still I had to remove the exisiting paint and send for them to do the rest.. would argos just do a paint removal and prep job ? is it something that could be done at home ? using wet n dry or the like ?

There's a lot you can do yourself if you are "good" at that sort of thing. Elbow grease makes up for a lot of resources. But chemical paint removal is a royal PITA to me and mechanical removal takes forever.

I had the same dilemma last year when I refurbished my 97 SC Heckler. I seriously looked at anodising, but in the end I decided not to take the risk. I found a small powdercoating firm that did paint removal, surface prep and powder coat all in their own shop and guaranteed a good finish. And they charged me 70 euro's ex shipping for the fron triangle. So I went there , handpicked the colour from samples and got to talk to the guys too. There's a lot more choice in PC compared to anodising where I live.

I had a few quotes, one of which was around Â£ 350.00 but would be likely to be more dependant on time this was for the guy to 'polish' the frame prior to anodising it, still I had to remove the existing paint and send for them to do the rest.. would argos just do a paint removal and prep job ? is it something that could be done at home ? using wet n dry or the like ?

You can certainly do it at home. Chemical paint removal is probably the best, but check a small area first. You could try a hot air gun I suppose, it's not going to be anywhere near hot enough to effect heat treatments.

Then just assess how much work there's going to be. Centres of tubes should be reasonably easy, it'll be around welds and fiddly bits that will take the time.

800 and 1200 grit wet and dry are the way to go, or scotchbrite pads etc. Then polish, polish and more polish. Fine wire wool and brasso work well.

Thanks for that, had thought about a hot air paint stripper to remove paint, then a rub down with wet n dry then send off,, just not sure how much 'crap' will be left around the welds etc... and how many nights it would take me rubbing away...but I am sure it would be cheaper than sending it away to someone to polish it.. although I would not mind sending it somewhere to be preped for anodising but I am trying to keep the costs down on this project as have other irons in the fire

Would it be recommended to undertake the following :

Remove paint via either nitro, or hot air gun.
Try and remove anodising using caustic as suggested.
Rub n Rub a bit more with wet n dry

Personally, I'd use something like Nitromors(SP?) (test a small area first!!). Around welds and tricky places work it in with some wire wool, you'll be amazed how well the stuff works. The paint is only a thin layer 'cos it's sprayed on, this stuff will take off years of paint from exterior doors so your bike frame ain't going to be a problem.

Once the paint is off, check the condition of the frame. I've never done the caustic soda thing, so don't know really how that's going to work, you'll just have to experiment I guess.

Then concentrate on any deep scratches and sand / polish them out before giving the whole frame a good going over with fine wire wool and brasso for example.

Finally finish it off with a good metal polish and a cloth. It's going to be a lot of work, and you may just decide to leave it nude once you've put all the work in.

That's the tester really, if it looks like a polished alloy frame once you've finished, then it's good enough to anodise... That's the kind of finish you're after.

If that's not put you off, then good luck and I can't wait to see the results.

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