Nikon D750 Review

The D750 is Nikon's third full-frame DSLR this year, and for a lot of our readers, it might be the most significant. Sitting between the more affordable D610 and the pro-grade, high-resolution D810, the D750 borrows elements from both cameras. Impressively though - with the exception of its 24 megapixel sensor - the D750's build quality, ergonomics and feature set have much more in common with the more expensive of the two.

The D750 offers faster continuous shooting than the D810 (6.5fps), an 'improved' version of the D810's 51-point AF system (more on that later), a 91,000-pixel RGB metering sensor, a now tilt-able 3.2" RGBW LCD screen (which is otherwise the same), and the same OLED viewfinder display. The D750 also inherits the same video specification as the D810, which itself incorporated the refinements that Nikon has been adding with each successive DSLR release. In this instance, that means powered aperture control, the new 'Flat' picture control mode and the addition of zebra overexposure warnings (though no focus peaking yet). The D750 also offers Auto ISO control in manual exposure video shooting, retaining exposure compensation.

It's a shame that the D750 does not feature the Split Screen Display Zoom feature of the D810 and some people will miss 1/8000 minimum shutter duration but aside from these omissions, arguably the only other thing of any significance that the D810 offers which the D750 doesn't is those extra 12 million pixels.

While Nikon is calling it 'newly developed', the D750's 24MP sensor is likely to be based on the sensor found in the D610, and includes an AA filter - bucking the recent Nikon trend. As such, we're not expecting the D750 to come close to the D810 for critical resolution, but on the plus side, it produces smaller files, and is a faster camera as a result.

Nikon D750: Key Specifications

24MP Full-frame CMOS sensor (with AA filter)

Flip up/down 3.2" 1,229k-dot RGBW LCD screen

6.5 fps continuous shooting

Improved 51-point Multi-CAM 3500FX II AF system (sensitive to -3EV)

91,000-pixel RGB metering sensor with face detection and spot-metering linked to AF point

Built-in Wi-Fi

Highlight-weighted metering

1080/60p video recording

Powered aperture for control during live view/video

Group Area AF mode

Simultaneous internal recording and HDMI output

D750 versus D610 versus D810

Nikon D610

Nikon D750

Nikon D810

Sensor resolution (type)

24.3MP CMOS

24.3MP CMOS

36.3MP CMOS (no OLPF)

Autofocus System

39 points with 9 cross-type (Multi-CAM 2700)

51-points with 15 cross-type (Multi-CAM 3500 II)

51-points with 15 cross-type (Multi-CAM 3500)

Metering System

2,016 pixel RGB sensor

91,000 pixel RGB sensor

91,000 pixel RGB sensor

ISO sensitivity range

100-6400 (25,600 expanded)

100-12,800 (51,200 expanded)

64-12,800 (51,200 expanded)

Max shutter speed

1/4000th

1/4000th

1/8000th

Shutter rating

150,000 releases

150,000 releases

200,000 releases

Accessory connector

Multi-interface

Multi-interface

10-pin screw-in type

Memory card slots

2 SD slots

2 SD slots

1 SD, 1 CompactFlash

Aperture control in live view/video

No

Yes

Yes

LCD

Fixed 3.2" 920k dots

Tilting 3.2" 1.2m dots

Fixed 3.2" 1.2m dots

Maximum frame rate

6 fps

6.5 fps

5 fps

Movie Mode

1080/30p

1080/60p

1080/60p

Wi-Fi

Optional WU-1b

Built-in

Optional WT-5A

Battery life (CIPA)

900 shots

1230 shots

1200 shots

Dimensions

141 x 113 x 82 mm (5.6 x 4.4 x 3.2 in)

140.5 x 113 x 78mm (5.6 x 4.5 x 3.1 in)

146 x 123 x 82 mm (5.8 x 4.9 x 3.3in)

Weight (with battery)

760 g (1.7 lb)

755 g (1.7 lb.)

880 g (1.9 lb.)

Pricing and Accessories

The D750 has an MSRP of $2299/£1799 body only or $3599/£2349 with the 24-120mm F4G lens. In the rest of Europe it's priced at €2149 for the body and £2699 with the 24-85mm F3.5-4.5G lens.

The optional MB-D16 grip can hold an additional EN-EL15 or six AA batteries.

The GP-1A GPS receiver plugs into the camera's accessory terminal.

Aside from lenses and external flashes, one of the most popular D750 accessories will be its pricey MB-D16 grip. The grip can hold another EN-EL15 or six AA batteries (with included adapter) and also has additional controls for portrait shooting. Like the D750 itself, the grip is weather-sealed.

Travelers can use the GP-1A GPS receiver, which attaches via the hot shoe and connects to the accessory port (to which you also plug in wired remotes).

If the built-in Wi-Fi isn't good enough for you, there's the UT-1 Communications Unit which can send photos directly to a computer or FTP server over Ethernet (or wirelessly, if you buy the adapter).

Ok, I thought I should put this out there so for those of you who may be interested in getting the D750 should be aware. Here is the story: I bought the D750 about 2 years ago. After about 3000 clicks, I got an ERR message on the LCD when I press the shutter. At first, it was an intermittent issue, but the shutter finally dies. Sent it under warranty and got it back and the fame number appeared at "0". Thinking that I got a brand new shutter...good! I didn't use the D750 for the past two years....the ERR message appeared again at around 3000 clicks. Sent it in last month and finally got it back...they couldn't find any problem and charged me $180 for sensor cleaning. The ERR message reappeared again yesterday. In fact, I can duplicate the problem in M mode, setting the shutter to 1/4000 when the camera is cold, and immediately the ERR message would pop up, and the mirror lockup. Checked Internet and YouTube...this appears to be very common with D750. So buyer beware!

My nine-year-old D3 kept gaining weight and finally I put it on the shelf and switched to the D750. All in all I love the camera, but it has two faults: the eyepiece cover is ridiculous. I use a small piece of gaffers tape instead. Worse, the camera won't let me use a full stop for changes in exposure. With the D3 and my D800 I can set up so that exposure compensation changes by one-third stop, but aperture or shutter speed changes by a full stop. I've been using cameras since 1943, and full stop changes in exposure feel normal.

I recently moved to a D750 after using Canon and other DSLR for a considerable period of time. Sometimes, I don't have time to manually setup metering when shooting sporting events and choose to go with P mode. I have noticed some significant irregularity with the metering results with frequent under exposures. I assumed that I was doing something wrong, reread the manual a few times, tried some different things but with no net change in the irregular performance. I heard today that it might be due to processing speed incompatibilities between the camera body and the lens. The lens can't keep up necessarily resulting in irregular performance. I have had this problem with Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5 5.6G ED, Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G Lens and Tokina AT-X 16-28mm f/2.8 Pro FX Lens with a variety of metering modes. Have others experienced similar problems with inconsistent metering? Thank you

Try back button autofocus to increase AF response. So thumb to AF and shutter to just fire.A good campaign is the Tom Hogan book/download for the D750. I am using constant aperture glass and personally I do not like third party glass if I have a choice. I might think about what you photography alot and gear your kit to getting better lenses. I know I am not a landscape or sports shooter so most of my stuff is geared for portrait and event photography. If I was a sports shooter like 90% of the time I would seriously considering selling my D750 for the D500. Lens wise I would get a 70-200 mm 2.8 Nikon or maybe Tamron for FX. If you can find the Nikon VR II for $2k not the new one it is still a good lens if go that wayI would look at the Nikon 16-80 if doing DX. Either way evaluate what you shoot and how often you do it, sell the dead weight

I really really struggle to see a significant difference in noise between this so called " low light beast" and the 5d mark iii or my 5Ds (downsampled to 24 mpx i think it beats the Nikon). I am really wanting to backup my 5ds for wedding photography NOT WITH A CANON, but with a Nikon, to show that i am open minded, that i don't care that much about brands, that i value quality and solidity over brand names(because of the second attribute, solidity, i would never choose a mirrorless for weddings). So, i was looking into Nikon d750 or Nikon d500,(for it's speed , but i don't ever know when a bride or a groom are moving as fast as hawks or eagles in flight). I was hoping to see something in low light that is gonna blow me away compared to my poorly rated Canons, but... in real life, in this studio scene, I DON'T SEE IT ...

I use both Nikon and Canon cameras and am quite happy with the results from either. I gave up trying to make comparisons long ago, it really seemed like a case of splitting hairs. The main advantage of having both in my experience is that Canon make some lenses that Nikon don’t and vice versa. I do however find the dual SD card facility useful in a world with most computers and devices will take SD cards without using adapters.

Having jumped ship from Canon APS-C to this, I do agree if you're doing a full frame comparison. Although I do shoot a very high ISO, something like 6400 or 12800, and I suppose this is where the D750 would have a slight edge over its older Canon rival. I think the real differentiating factor is the D750 is ISO-invariant. I've had a couple of situations where I forgot to adjust the ISO from a day to night shoot, and as a result accidentally snapped a night scene at ISO 200. On my Canon, pushing up the exposure 3 stops would render it near unusable due to the noise and purple chroma , while on the Nikon it doesn't look significantly worse than if I had exposed the shot correctly.

Despite it's limitations, I think the D750 is a good choice for the enthusiast/serious hobby photographer. It gets you into the full-frame market without spending upwards of $5000 to get started. You can get the basic kit with 24-120mm for around $2500 most places. Granted, it doesn't have the bells and whistles of the pro level cameras (D500/D5) or even the semi-pro models (like the D810/D800) it does well for what its worth. I mean, 1/4000s is a drawback considering the competition has 1/8000s shutter speeds (there are some workarounds for it but after 16k clicks, I've only encountered maybe a handful where 1/8000s would have been needed). Also love that the low-light performance excellent and is actually a tad better than the more expensive D810/D800. Noise isn't really noticeable at or below ISO 3200 for the most part. Easy to use, dual card slots, tilting screen. This camera is pretty much what I wanted coming from a D5100.

This review is ridiculous. It assigns only 87% for MKIV after having previously given 90% for D750, when this gear, as is well known, has presented many issues and weakness. While MKIV will sell tens of thousands, D750 is moldering on store shelves.

What camera has not had it's weaknesses or flaws. I mean, when the Canon 1D X Mark II came out, they had issues with the CFast cards and image corruption. CAmeras will have their flaws and strengths. There is a lot that goes into these reviews. Is thee anything in particular we can point out for the Mk IV that you feel is better (other than just saying the entire camera/brand is better)?

The EOS 5D Mk IV STILL lags behind the D750, which is 2 1/2 years old, in terms of dynamic range and focus tracking. This isn't to say that the Mk IV isn't a good camera. It's a fantastic camera compared to its predecessor(s). But when put against its peers Sony (innovative tech in small bodies) and Nikon (class leading dynamic range, high ISO performance, and focus tracking), perhaps it doesn't score quite so well in its bracket because it's an incremental upgrade that leaves much to be desired. More resolution is great, but what use is it when the dynamic range still lags behind 2 year old cameras?

Maybe put your rabid fanboyism aside for a bit and evaluate the score from DPReview's perspective - I can guarantee they test far more cameras than you or I.

The other thing that people need to realize with these reviews (And really any reviews in general) is that they are subject to the person or team reviewing them. There is obviously room for bias, but also (as with cameras) specific use-case will mostly determine the reviewer's perception of a camera. On paper, one can look better than the other, etc, but it's the real world that counts. Both brands (and cameras) are good in their own ways. I will admit that the Canon is probably better for sports photography (and video, or tracking other moving subjects, as I've read Canons sometimes have the upper hand in those departments), but the Nikon's really tend to shine when it comes to stills. So, it really depends on use case. I know DPR tries to evaluate on a variety of uses (stills, video, low-light, landscape, etc, to give a fair "all around" review incorporating most of the most common uses.

I'm nowhere near a professional, but I love photography. I've been using the same D80 for 10 years now. It served me faithfully, and it has finally given up the ghost. I'd always considered upgrading, but she did what I needed, so I kept putting it off. Now, it's time to replace her, and I'm having trouble.

To give some background, I mostly focus on macro, nature, and travel shots, and I dabble with portraits when my friends ask nicely and promise me wine. I've always wanted a full frame camera, and the D750 sounds incredible! That being said, I'm not sure I *need* a full frame camera. In that vein, I've been looking at the D500. I've read every review I can get my hands on for both, and I'm still breaking even on pros and cons. There are attractive reasons to own both. So do I stay crop and take advantage of the yumminess of the D500, or should I finally venture into the full frame world with this beauty of a camera?

I can't believe I'm reading this. This is exactly what I'm considering. Please, please let me now how you proceed. I'm getting tired from all the review reading. The D80 has served me well too. Good luck and please reply to keep me updated.

I have been using Nikon for more than 30 years. I have a D90 and am very pleased about it. I bought D750 and this is a very disappointing camera.Couple of weeks after I bought it the lens barrel came apart and B&H exchanged the camera for another. Then the first memory card slot would not hold the card in place. I had to ship the camera to Nikon for repair and they fixed and shipped back (they only pay for return shipping and insurance). Couple of weeks after getting the camera the memory card slot had the same issue. After several emails and calls to Nikon, they sent a shipping label and I sent it for repairs.May be I got a lemon, i am very disappointed with the picture quality of this camera too

I take photography seriously since 3 years, My first "advanced" camera was a Nikon D3100, after that, I moved to Fuji but since they haven't any FF solution I moved back to Nikon and I got the D750 at the end of April.

In these 3 months, I've been shooting in different scenarios like nature, landscape, street, documentary, action and portrait and I always feel comfortable with this camera, especially in low-light conditions, Is incredible how fast can focus and how it handle high ISO, that is the main reason why I moved to FF and I'm very happy with my decision.I use it with a Tamron 24-70 f2.8 IS, the IQ is brilliant and the images are very sharp. The camera is very responsive and also very ergonomic. In some cases, I've been using it without straps but still, I was feeling secure in my hands because of the very good grip she has.

To conclude, I had a very good experience with the Nikon D750, I recommend this camera to everyone who want to move to FF but also who need a practical camera like photojournalists or travel photographer due to her small dimensions (compared to other FF) and ergonomics.

Sansun, it sounds like you got a dud or perhaps ones from a bad batch. Knock on wood, I've had mine for about a year now, 16,000 clicks, and not an issue (Again, knock on wood). It's a good camera, I'm just thinking you got ones from a bad batch.

I've had my D750 for just over a year and for my needs (sport, travel, family portraits and some landscape) I have found it the perfect all rounder. Once you get to master the more detailed settings and have the U1 and U2 settings store your two most regular shooting modes - it would be hard to imagine even going to one of Nikon's pro bodies unless I needed a tougher build and weather proofing. The image quality and uncanny AF automation has raised my success rate massively and unless I'm shooting in difficult light or for a critical project, the JPEG engine is plenty good enough. If you are a photographer whose needs exceeds the D750's capabilities, then congratulations - you are doing some serious stuff!

I just purchased the D750 and I upgraded from D5200.I am a beginner in photography but I believe I've done so well understanding and mastering the Exposure on my current D5200 so I shoot fully manual as the other modes confuse me more so I shoot fully on manual mode and I am producing really good shots with my Sigma 35mm F1.4 Art and Nikon 50mm F1.8.

I got my new D750 yesterday, and I'm seeing a bit trouble understanding this cameras settings (of course still going through the manual). But, for example, I would use same logic as in my D5200 to take a picture on manual mode, and for some reason I'm getting a different photo results so with same settings I get better photo on my D5200.Is this normal?

Is "Auto ISO" enabled on either body? Why are you shooting full manual anyway? I've been shooting for 25+ years, and I my favorite mode is aperture priority. How do you determine the exposure by yourself? Anyway, what problems are you having?

Also keep in mind that the light meter for Manual can be misleading at times, and while you may have the same settings on your D5200 as you do your D750, realize too that the sensors are different, so the settings may need to be tweaked. How bad are the pictures? Are they over/under exposed? I would recommend reading through the entire manual, as there is a lot to the the D750 (or at least read about the things you'll be using daily).

Curious how well the d750 AF face (eye) detection works with wildlife, including as distance increases, and focal length (e.g. zoom on a good lens) increases. Do you have to lock on part of the face to start?

Hi I would like to know how to change my Autofocus setting back to the default shutter release button half way from the back button focus in my D 750. I love the back button focus feature but I would like to go back to the default shutter press down half way focus so I can set one of my U1 or U2 settings, when I give my camera to another person they just have to press the shutter half way down to focus thanks.

2016 is going to be the year where both Canon and Nikon will announce their first “PRO” mirrorless FF system cameras, likely with 4K which becomes a basic feature these days. Many 2016 new cameras (including entry compacts) has 4K.

I never buy DSLRs for their video capabilities, so I don't know why companies boast 4K video and video capabilities. You bought a DSLR probably for taking pictures, not video. (Although I will admit that many newer DSLRs give the current generation of digital video cameras a run for their money). Plus, some companies are finding that 4K causes issues (ie. Sony a6300 overheating while taking 4K video). Enjoy it as DSLR, and get a video camera designed for video if you want to do 4K.

@sirhawkeye64 : That is your prerogative, we purchased for stills but realise the potential of video inclusion. With social and marketing networks on the internet, one never knows when it can come in use on a shoot! It is fair comment to reflect this with, "Shame that it did not have 4K, huge difference!"

@Carl Sanders - Yes I guess that is my perogitive, I understand that you now have a DSLR that doesn't do the video capabilities you wanted. I mean, yeah I would have liked to have first-curton electronic shutter like in the D810 for IQ reasons, but I didn't realize this until AFTER I got the D750. Does that mean the camera is not a good camera? No. It means that I probably didn't do enough research on the the differences between the two. So is that something to fault a camera over? No, because it's not the camera (or manufacturer's) fault I didn't know about the feature that now sounds like it would be helpful and needed. I'm not saying you didn't do your research, but realizing after the fact that some features you considered later really isn't an acceptable justification IMO, since you originally purchased it for stills, which is why I purchased mine. Plus, when this camera came out in mid 2014, 4k was around, but not very popular as it was still expensive to buy a 4k TV.

Plus, as we've seen with some cameras (a6300 and I think a few of the NIkon's) shooting 4k has some issues. Now, they are probably some design/implementation issues. Me personally, I don't care for this "jack of all trades" stuff for digital cameras. Yeah, it means you have to buy more equipment and for the casual user, they may not want to lug around multiple cameras (video and stills/DSLR). Me personally, I don't want a camera that's a jack of all trades, because generally that CAN mean that corners need to be cut... but where do you cut the corners? On the video? On the still quality? Or both? Sometimes there isn't that much corner cutting, but to keep costs competitive and affordable, something usually has to be cut. You go with a a slightly cheaper video processing unit that is "good enough" so that you can spend a little more on the primary (imaging) sensor. Or you ignore video altogether and focus on being a good DSLR, and leave video capabilities as just an extra.

These cameras are also aimed for the enthusiast/pro photography market. The D3300 and D5300/D5500 have good 4K capabilities, but that's because they are marketed to casual (hobby) users who want video and stills. The D750 is primarily designed for stills. It's also about the placement and target market. Many photographers (pro/enthusiasts) don't buy a DSLR for their video capabilities (at least, the ones I've talked to and worked with) and I think that Nikon looked into this--what does the pro/enthusiast really want at a certain price point? I think they weighed more on still performance than trying to adding 4k and risk both capabilities being mediocre trying to attract to multiple target markets. Most pro's want a good camera for stills. The video capabilities is just an added bonus.

Why has the video rating been marked down well below the D610 for the D750 when it was once higher ? Why the change ? I just bought the D750 partly based on this review as I needed a good video quality with great full frame stills.

I have a low-light/ISO invariance question: I'm trying to work out how to get the best overall image quality for handheld dusk/night photography with this camera. I'm wondering if I can use Manual mode with Auto ISO and Highlight weighted entering to achieve this?

My theory is that in order to maximise light recorded and keep noise to a minimum (while protecting highlights), I need to do the following:1. Select highlight weighted metering mode2. Select Auto ISO3. Select Manual mode4. Set aperture to the largest my lens will go5. Set shutter speed to 1/focal length minus the number of stops that VR will give me in order to avoid camera shake6. Let the camera do the rest until I end up more than 5 stops underexposed

Would that work? Also what would I need to do if I ended up more than 5 stops under? Would pushing the ISO manually help me or would I just need to use a tripod?

No, it wouldn't. The highlight weighted metering mode is for when you're shooting in low ISO and want to push up the shadows later in post. Such as when one part of the frame is much brighter due to a spotlight or daylight.

The higher your ISO, the less you'll be able to push up your image in post without severe colour degradation, noise and artifacts.

Hi GuysI have this great camera. everything works very well BUT...I really don't know WHY this 90 Gold award dslr, requires you to slow down when shooting under fluorescent!!!I had an EOS 70D but I didn't have this issue.Please, someone reply me!Is it normal or Nikon did another mistake?!thanks

I read somewhere that Canon has a feature that allows for shooting under fluoroscent lights with fast speeds, it syncs the camera to the flickering of fluoroscent lights. Nikon does not have it therefor at fast speeds the picture can be either too dark or light. Countermeasure for this is to lower the shutter speed which Nikon camereas do. If you photograph a lot indoor sports you should consider a canon with the sync feature.

I have upgraded from a D7000 to the D750 and I am disappointed with my D750 picture quality. The D7000 has noticeably sharper detail and more vibrant colours. I have checked similar scenes and same lenses on both cameras, in fact I have spent quite a lot of money on high end lenses yet the D7000 is better. The D750 is a recent model so it does not have the flare problem of the early units.When next I am in civilisation I will take it to Nikon for a check-up, I hope that I have not bought a lemon. Does anyone else have a similar concern?

No not my experience at all, though I have no high end lenses to put to the test, mostly primes from 17 to 300. However, I cannot truly do a DX to FX comparison as each of my FX lenses will represent a different FOV and indeed be cropped to the "sweet spots in DX" D750 only offers 10Mp in crop mode. Will test for the next few weeks as my D750 is only 2 weeks old and on exposure 60 or 70. Just glad that my two 85mm are back to their FOV and my 28mm f2.8 is no longer 42mm in DX. Only not so good aspect is my FX macro 55 f2.8 is back to requiring annoyingly close subject distance for a good frame filled composition. Yours could well be a lemon (check the serial numbers against the admitted duff ones listed so far)

Thanks for the reply Victor. My daughter now uses my old D7000 with a bog standard 18 to 200 lens and is putting me to shame with the colour and picture sharpness. I have checked the serial number on the Nikon site and it comes up clean...unless I need to look somewhere else? Is there another setting/test that I can try apart from a five pound hammer?

@PaulMW: I recently purchased a D750 and have noticed what I believe is mirror slap vibration at shutter speeds below 1/125. So I switched the release-mode dial from S (single frame) to Q (quiet shutter release) and have since noticed sharper pictures.

I had to comment on this thread as I've had the exact opposite experience, both with the D750/D7000 and my daughter ;). She also now uses my old D7000 (with both the 55-200 kit and the following primes: 50mm/f1.8 and 28mm/f2.8). We just returned from a month in Peru and she came back with a lot of sub-standard captures - in comparison to the D750 (with the 24-120mm/f4 walk-about).

I'm sure there's a lot more to this than the obvious D7000 vs. D750 question, but I'll at least say that in the 8 months that I've had the D750 I've been incredible happy with it (much, much better than my D7000 in so many ways).

Not sure how to help you, as my experience is different although I remember in 1998 thinking that my new F5 was not as good as the FE2 that it replaced and again in 2008 thinking my wife was taking better shots than me when I got my first DSLR the D300. In time it turned out to be technique more than the actual camera, although I would never question your expertise with any respect, it has been my experience with any equipment it takes time to adjust to things you get used to. I am still being taken aback by the magnify and withdraw buttons being opposite on my D750 when compared to my D300. This means that Macro shots with live subjects take 4 times longer than normal as I go through that mind skip between shots. This is after more than a couple score years of photography. However, if yours is a lemon then sell it rather than break it. I am reluctantly selling my D300 along with its 10-20mm DX lens and loving the lighter body of the D750 when matched with my FE/FM 17mm+28mm lenses.

Actually mandophoto, Ive noticed that shutter slap as the body seems considerably lighter and sudden in action than my D300 or my F5, god a couple of movement blurred shots when pixel peeping but I accepted that to be me, just thought it would take time for me and muscle memory to get used to the trigger point. Something I loved with my beloved FE2 but ruined when I attached motordrives.

Thanks guys for your input. I will try the Q function and see how it goes. When next at home I will also set up the old D7000 next to the D750, same subject, lighting, settings, lenses and push the button; then I can see a direct like for like and I'll let you know. in the meantime I will keep the hammer in the garage.

Update: I have tried other settings as above....no change. However, when I use View NX on my computer I can manipulate the sharpness and colour to be good, just as good as the D7000 but I don't want to do this with all my pictures! The camera should do this as standard; why can the D7000 get it right first time but not the D750? Unless Nikon can come up with a fix under warranty I am seriously thinking about disposing of it and buying something else....any ideas?

Dunno Paul, It might be worth just giving up, put it down to experience and get back to enjoying the DX format perhaps a new D7200 for good jpegs straight out of the box.My approach is different but I'm having small issues as , I usually shoot RAW+ Fine and jump onto Adobe Photoshop LE using ACR, when I want to rescue highlights or shadows, boost sharpness or crop out details. Now my version of Photoshop Elements is too old (v 11) for the latest ACR with the D750 RAW converter, so my choices are (1) use NX-D which I have no real experience with (I gave up Photoshop CS when its price went too high) (2) borrow Lightroom on my wife's PC, drat another thing to learn. So I can't really say if my D750 is good bad or indifferent as I haven't really completed a decent learning curve with it from capture to post yet to be so definite if the D750 is better for my purposes than the D300. Your criteria of the .jpeg quality straight out of the box isn't a deal killer for me.

Hi Victor. Thanks for the reply. I am in communication with Nikon directly and they are assisting. It appears that there is a sharpness/focus issue with my camera judging from the sample picture I sent them. I have been aske d to send some more for them to analyse the possible problem and then hopefully resolve it.

Paul,Hope the outcome is great for you and do post some pics whenever you feel happy about whichever camera you end up keeping or getting. For me this lighter, smaller, faster more capable, larger sensor camera than my beloved D300 feels good to use but I dont feel I'm doing it justice yet.

Hello All,I have had a very positive interaction with Nikon's help centre. After several tests and comparisons, it seems that I am maybe a bit hypercritical and by not comparing exact comparison pictures, it seemed that the D750 was not performing. After further comparisons and evaluation, the camera is fine and the pictures are good. One mistake that I did make is the lock switch on the right back side of the camera is very easily bumped or moved into the lock position and without noticing this, I took several pictures and was very unhappy with the result. Nikon should redesign this switch! I am now looking at ways to physically lock this switch so that it cannot be moved by accident. Thank you Nikon.

I bought the Nikon D750 yesterday with 35 mm f/1.8 and 85 mm f/1.8 primes. I'm used to shoot with the Nikon D7000 and Fuji x100s.

I shot with my D750 a whole day long and I can already say that this camera is a beast: it's fast, its AF very accurate even on f/1.8 aperture, high iso performance superb, picture quality astounding, ergonomics great, etc.

Compared, my D7000 is like a toy. My x100s is still great, but can't match the AF speed or image quality at higher iso's. The only real downside is that - compared to my Fuji x100s - this thing is big and heavy (even though it's small and light for a full frame SLR). So my x100s will still accompany me for the more casual shooting situations.

Flare and shutter issues are no issue if you're buying from an authorized dealer that sells a lot of camera's: any newer D750 doesn't show any of these problems (units affected are produced pre-january 2015).

I almost never use my 28-300, it just produces such mediocre results when compared to the 24-70 & 70-200 f2.8 lenses even with extenders (1.4&1.7). Try a lens with shorter focal range and I think you'll be surprised at the improvement. Super zooms rarely produce great IQ. But you can't argue with convenience.

Your Shooting Experience section comments on the small buffer memory causing the camera to slow down even with "insanely fast SDXC card" I clicked on that link and saw that you used a 280 MB/s Sandisk Extreme Pro UHS II card. This suggests worse performance would be expected with a UHS I 95 MB/s card. Does the D750 support UHS II? If not, the use of "insanely fast SDXC card" is irrelevant and so is misleading. Might a slower card give the same performance as yours?

The D750 doesn't support UHS II. In fact, that particular card doesn't support the fastest mode that the D750 uses, so real world performance of the combination is around 40 MB/s. The lower end Extreme Pro UHS I does support the fastest mode on the D750, and runs at about 70 MB/s in the real world.

I do not understand DPReview. How can you give the Nikon D750 a Gold Award and an overall score of 90. This camera has WiFi issues. It has problems with Live View.This camera has issues with the buffer capacity. It has a mushy controller on the rear. I see the articulating LCD Screen has a potential problem, the ribbon cable connecting the LCD screen to the camera is exposed and can be damaged easily. This is a poor design. I am afraid to touch the screen because of it. Despite these problems you give the D750 a Gold Award??? I do not trust your evaluations. It looks very shady.

Jump, don't just go by the ratings and Dpreview, I bought one as it seemed a step up from my old D300 and I wanted all my old Nikkors to get back to their old FOVs got 17s,28s,50s, 85s 135s and 300s of various flavours that are now behaving as they did from my first Nikon FM in 1980. So far, touch wood, it hasn't been any trauma, the issues you talk about are only issues if you think they are. After all these cameras are temporal, the D750 is cheap and capable as an FX model enjoy it while its here. I had a Nikon F301 (N2020) that only lasted a year or so and cost me £125 put may rolls through it before it died the Nikon UK death of "Beyond Economic Repair". Why fret over conspiracies when it dos no good for your picture taking.

PROBLEM: I have really enjoyed the amazing D-750 ... except ... for one very bad problem: The upper right rear dial falls directly under the thumb, which results in constant strings of ruined photos because the dial keeps getting accidentally turned. This flaw is driving me crazy, and its fatal effect is unavoidable due to the poor untenable position of the dial.

This problem seems to a casualty of the small form factor ... a factor which I otherwise much enjoy. Too bad!

SOLUTION: This dial either needs to be moved, or be protected by a built-up barrier to guard it.

Sand Pond,you may be a "new" Nikon user. The dials were placed in the best location for you to make adjustments by touch and not sight. Plus you can reprogram the dials. That may limit "your" issues with the dial and enjoy the Nikon experience.

D300 was my first Nikon DSLR and the ergonomy of body was excellent. After 5 years I have changed it to D7100 and from December 2014 I'm taking pictures with D750. I have to say that I'm excited from ergonomy of Nikon bodies. Dials are placed in the best locations. Never have problem as you. Maybe, if you are new on Nikon, you need much time to get used or have bigger thumbs (battery grip could be solution).

I know this post is old, but I agree Sand Pond. I just purchased my D750 last week and was shooting at a dance recital and it seemed like the I constantly turned the read dial with my thumb. I guess I have to be more careful

In video mode, is there an easy way to make the camera stop jumping up or down in brightness each time you refocus using autofocus ? (each half shutter press) The camera never jumps brightness when manual focusing, it's always a smooth ISO shift in manual mode for me.

I wonder why Nikon has always criticism about the camera's buffer capacity? It was a downside in D7100 and corrected in D7200. It is a downside in the D5000 series and now in the wonderful high score D750. I think Nikon heard about the criticism in this point in previous cameras. so why again in a flagship camera like D750?

Has anyone else had problems with the rear screen? Used on a surf beach with mist. Camera did not get wet. After a couple of hours flip up screen went intermittent, then stopped working for 3 days. It then spontaneously recovered and now seems fine. The camera continued to work during this time. Nikon Europe's response was'"I am sorry to learn about the problem you have experienced. I would like to confirm that the D750 camera is weather-sealed to certain extent, however depending on the actual conditions some moisture ingress may occur. If the mist was slightly salty, it may have affected the camera's circuitry and due to presence of seals it evaporated with delay"

I was under the impression the D750 was "Tough and durable: protected by a tough, weather-sealed body, the D750 is ready to take on any environment"?

I had a problem with a sticky on switch on a D700 which had rarely been outside at the time never mind exposed to moisture. Nikon UK diagnosed the problem as being cause by liquid ingress, I pointed out it hadn't been exposed to any liquid and even if it had it's supposed to have weather sealing so was there a problem with the sealing?

I received pretty much exactly the same response as you, they don't guarantee any level of weather sealing and I'd have to pay for the damage - they claimed all other manufacturers were the same and that the camera shouldn't be exposed to rain or anything else which may get into the camera.

Needless to say I was pretty annoyed particularly coming from Olympus where my E-1/E-3 had been used in constant heavy rain without any issues at all and Olympus did do warranty repairs when liquid had managed to get in that shouldn't have.

They don't cover water damage where the camera has been immersed in water (such as dropped in a body of water) but they did cover damage where water had breached seals when it shouldn't have as they did repair E-3's in that situation under warranty.

Even that aside, my D700 was never even exposed to water despite the claim it was 'water damaged' and despite charging me for the repair they never fixed the problem, they broke something else and they had the camera for three months. I can't really think how the service could be worse but I gave up trying to deal with Nikon and keep the old Olympus for shooting when I need weather sealing.

I still do not understand why the manufacturers of cameras integrate Wi-Fi into their bodies and not the GPS which I think for most photographers (especially naturalists, landscaping, street and holiday) is much more useful ... .I find it hard to think that the Wi-Fi is more required than GPS ...... I hope will have their right motivation market ...

I have a camera with WIFI and GPS. I played with WIFI to test it a couple of times and then turned if off. In my workflow, I have no urgency to transfer images to smart phone or elsewhere. But GPS is always on. Having location stored within EXIF is very important for me (travelling) than WIFI. I am sure there are others with opposite needs.

The problem with GPS is that for it to work properly it constantly has to be working and then the battery drains. If you keep it off and turn it on when need it, it has to look for the satellites and this will take several minutes (usually 10-20 min to get them from a cold start). This makes the whole on-board GPS system unpractical.with WiFi on the other hand, you can use the GPS info from your smart device to geotag the pictures you take (as smartphones get the satellite info through the data network instead of constant search, this is MUCH faster and reliable).

Sorry for so many questions, but hoping to find experienced D750 owner with knowledge to answer...all my older manual lenses work perfectly, but when attaching my 20mm f2.8 AFD, as lens "clicks" in place, camera shutter button and bottom live view button does not work. My front left control is set to AF. On top LCD the upper right(f stop) is flashing, can't quite make out, maybe it "EE". But if I press lens release button, just slightly turn right the lens, the back LCD comes on, shutter button operates.

Might I have misfunctioning contacts in lens mount...or misfunctioning contacts in my brain???

This looks like the aperture-ring is either mis-aligned or broken - the "EE" on the LCD is because the lens isn't set at minimum aperture (mostly F22 marked in red on most nikon non-G lenses) and the camera isn't able to set the aperture electronically in that mode.

The d750 is amazingly easy to set up, create your favorites, and delivers great images.

Whether the guru or not, you can download Ken Rockwell's basic settings he uses to your d750 menu. I have not changed a thing thus far other than insert my own copyright.

I am new to the d750, just returned from Yosemite (first time using it) and I am excited with the results.

I also own the 610. The 750 has Wifi built in and works flawlessly. Use your smartphone to not only view the image but also as your remote for shutter. The 610 requires an adapter to make it WiFi.

I was a sole Sony user until I got the 610. I have since added the d800 and now the d750 and the newly released Cool Pix p900. I am disposing of my Sony/Minolta gear but will keep the a7 and the full frame e-mount and a couple of a-mount lenses.

I am so glad I made the jump to Nikon. Camera and lens are far superior to Sony lineup. As for Canon, Canon vs. Nikon is always an interesting debate. For me, Nikon wins!

Hello guys, i sold my old camera and want to buy a new one for astrography and don't know wich one will be the best. Can you share your experience with me? I'm thinking to buy one camera from this 3 1.Canon 6D2.Nikon D7503.Nikon D610what will be the best one? Also i read that there is no a big diference between Nikon D750 and D610 but the price is not the same. Can you please reveal me the truth?

Something DPReview hasn't mentioned here but really bears a shout out -- the distance from the film/sensor plane to the back of the camera on the D750 is RADICALLY reduced compared to other Nikon DSLRs. It's at least 3 and probably 3.5mm less, and would be close to 5mm less if Nikon had resisted the temptation to do a folding LCD. This means that a) almost certainly Nikon has a smaller logic board in this body that does not go all the way across the back of the camera, something that may also make for better build quality and a less easily compromised body and b) the overall proportions of the body are slimmer, like a film camera, a welcome development.

Let's hope this is a sign of things to come on other Nikon DSLRs. It goes a long way toward making the body feel more compact, closer to a mirrorless body. Also means that the deeper grip does not make for a body that's more difficult to pack, because a substantial dimension has come off the entire back of the camera.

Pixels - want that, print bigger all the time, sometimes need to crop/zoomBetter AF - tracking kids and sports, would help as is face-detection that worksWifi - sometimes I need to post or upload right away, would be very convenientVideo - a few movies of the kids in the future might be niceDual card slots - just to feel save?

That is a lot of money for extras that have work arounds (except the pixels) and I would get annoyed missing my interface features/shutter speed.I guess I'll wait another year, maybe they even add in GPS that works...

D8XX series - too expensive, too big files. Sweet spot would be 20Mp, but 24Mp is a good cap.

It looks like Nikon will never make the 'mistake' again of a D700 'package', I need to save up for a 42MP D900 and use it at a lower pixel settings.

Af-on can be set to the Ae-AL button or any other button quite conveniently, 1/8000th is a problem but you can now go to ISO 50 compared to 100 on the D700, square eyecup... well, who cares?, metering mode dial is now in the AF dial. Plus a bunch of welcome suprises like easy ISO, dramatically improved high ISO performance, I think you should reconsider your opinion and go to try the camera in a shop to see for yourself :)

I use only AI/AIS manual lenses on my D750. I have inserted non cpu data into settings. I notice the settings do not auto matically notice which lens I put on body. Does this affect how lens captures image? Do I have to go into menu to set data every time I change lenses?Thanks!

Unfortunately yes, you do have to go into the menu every time you change lenses since there is no electronic contacts on the AI lenses to communicate what lens you have put on. The settings only affect how the aperture metering tab is interpreted. If you were to set your CPU data to a 50mm f/1.4 then mount a 200mm f/4, when set wide open, the camera would think its at f/1.4 and your metering would be off by 3 stops. This would severely affect A, S, P modes, and would only affect M if you are using the metering indicator to set your settings.

Standard interface on the better Nikon bodies: After having set the manual lens data you can use a button and dial to select the suitable set of data from the list of stored ones. Having the correct focal length is not that important (imho) as having the correct max aperture. In manual shooting mode, you can ignore the lens data and shoot like on an entry level body. Use sunny 16 or iterate ...

Hanno, that is incorrect. Even in Manual Mode, not telling the camera which non-CPU lens you have mointed will result in the incorrect aperature being displayed in the VF and on the LCDs. Unless younalways check your aperature visually on the lens itself, this will land you in trouble.

To users of Ai and Ai-s lenses, you can get your manual Nikkors "chipped" so that they act as a modern lens and no longer require you to tell the camera when you switch lenses. Go to naturfotograf.com and give Bjorn an email if you are interested.

Any idea why Nikon cannot build the GPS into the unit? Would love to have a built in GPS unit with a hold/remember coordinate feature. This way when inside a building the approximate coords would be posted in the EXIF data. Should be a cheap addition and easy to engineer.

My alternative is to use my phone (which loses coords inside a building) and sync to time in an external program - what a pain.

I don't know why, and surprisingly Nikon removed GPS in D5500 (D5300 had it, with some issues). My P&S camera has built-in GPS, with minimal impact on power consumption (with option to turn it off). All images with my P&S are geotagged, and even orientation sensor provides direction where camera was pointing (I used it several times when I go to the same location in different seasons).I tried using my cell-phone, but it adds another step and you have to make sure time/date are synced (when I was travelling my cell phone switched to local time but not my DSLR, and with 6 hour time difference, even days were mixed up).

The numbers and letters in top mounted LCD are very, very dim, difficult to make out. I called Nikon Customer Support, and they said there are no adjustments to brightness or contrast. This is rediculous. They tout how handy it is to quickly show settings, but they offer a screen that cannot be read. I am forced to use back LCD, use up time and battery.

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