All thoroughly sociable in W2

Tuesday 15 January 2002 00:00 BST

This review was first published in January 2002.

Conceived as a backlash against pubs with attitude - with which the area abounds - HARRY'S SOCIAL CLUB in Notting Hill Gate is happy to admit non-members to its theatrically, whimsically decorated first-floor dining room where you enter between two bedheads upholstered in pink Toile de Jouy.

Nick Nosh of Nosh Brothers fame, having sold his own Notting Hill restaurant, pops up as Harry's executive chef. The dishes are as faithful to the modern British ethos - to the extent of being served in large white soup plates - as cassoulet and pot au feu are to the French canon, but the acting chef has a deft touch.

A warm salad of Puy lentils and field mushrooms was well judged in quantities and dressing. Terrine of smoked duck and foie gras was splendid. In the main course confit of pork belly was too dry to be interesting but came with excellent spinach and mash. Char-grilled rib-eye was fine but whoever "handcut" the chips possessed machine-like precision. Chocolate brownie arrived with the bonus of chocolate ice cream covered with chocolate sauce.

Service is willing. A promise to change the techno music resulted in another techno tape. However, I noticed that the rest of the young clientele seemed not to notice the relentless thudding. It has become, I suppose, their heartbeat.