Expert guide to Perth and Western Australia

An insider's guide to the best free things to do in Perth and Western Australia, including attractions for kids, families and couples and how to visit Margaret River Vineyards, Swan Valley and Fremantle Markets. By Fleur Bainger, Telegraph Travel's Perth expert.

Kings Park and Botanic Garden

A trip to Perth without visiting Kings Park is a bit like going to New York City and not wandering through Central Park. Perth's patch of green is actually larger than its Big Apple equivalent, making it the largest inner city park in the world. Don’t expect to see the fiery hues of autumnal leaves though – its native Australian bush is non-deciduous, boasting shades of Kermit and khaki green year-round. Fraser Avenue, lined with white trunked, sky-scraping trees grants some of the best views of the city and Swan River. Join locals picnicking around the war memorial’s manicured lawns and don’t miss the giant boab tree. I was involved in transporting it nearly 2,000 miles south from its Kimberley home - a massive logistical feat. At 750 years old, it’s the park’s reigning queen.

Perth's patch of green is actually larger than its Big Apple equivalent, making it the largest inner city park in the world

Fremantle Markets

At least 150 stalls are crammed into this cream stone Victorian building, constructed in 1897. It's a microcosm of Fremantle: historic bones, arty, hippie interior, and a happy heart of noise and colour. You could easily spend hours rubbing hand woven cotton towels between your fingers, gazing at multi-coloured plastic chandeliers and wondering how you could fit a large print of a WA beach into your suitcase. And that’s before you've even reached The Yard, where street food sizzles, coffee froths and fresh produce shines. Visit just before closing time for heavily discounted fruit and vegetables sold in exuberant fashion.

At least 150 stalls are crammed into this cream stone Victorian building

Perth Cultural Centre

There’s an awful lot jammed into the Perth Cultural Centre: cafés and sometimes food trucks are at its heart, attracting hungry urbanites, while the state history museum (under construction until 2020) and Art Gallery of Western Australia act as bookends. Across from the excellent, free-entry gallery is the Urban Orchard, a city garden of leafy greens, herbs and more, that everyone is free to pick and eat. It’s a lovely place to sit for lunch and it often hosts night markets and events, as well as a lively collection of food stalls and an alfresco bar during festival season (January-March). Down the painted stairs is PICA, The Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts, which is definitely worth a look. The entire space is serviced with free WiFi and leads to Perth's Central Train Station.

Swan Valley

The Swan Valley, on Perth’s outskirts is the oldest wine region in Western Australia, celebrating 180 years of winemaking in 2014. It’s also the city’s nearest wine region, just a 45-minute drive from the city centre. A day trip following the 20 mile Swan Valley Food and Wine Trail (map available at the Swan Valley Visitor Centre) will see you wending your way from wineries to chocolatiers, breweries, farms and wildlife parks. I love kicking things off at Taylor’s Art and Coffee House, where they do an excellent breakfast (order the “eggs fabulosa”), before heading to fourth generation-owned Olive Farm Wines for a tasting. Hop next door to The Cheese Barrel, then compare notes at Lamonts. Upper Reach Winery is another favourite, plus Broads Restaurant for lunch. New winery Mandoon Estate has also been generating a lot of buzz lately, both for its wines, its restaurant and its sprawling, grassed grounds. Bonus tip: a new Swan Valley Cider and Ale Trail was recently launched. Download the map here: swanvalleyciderandale.com.au/Trail-Map

The Swan Valley, on Perth’s outskirts is the oldest wine region in Western Australia

Free things to do in western Australia

Gnaraloo

Watersport fans travel hundreds of kilometres to reach Gnaraloo each year: it’s known as a windsurfing, kite surfing and surfing mecca. The epic, windy conditions are found on a remote, century-old working pastoral property-cum-tourism venture. The landscape is flat, dry and dusty, and even if you plan on being in the water all day, I’d recommend staying in one of their cottages as camping is pretty rough. Snorkelling is also excellent, plus if you visit from late November to early March you may be able to monitor sea turtle behaviour with resident, scientific volunteers. Three of the world’s most endangered species, the loggerhead, green and hawksbill turtles make an annual pilgrimage up these ivory beaches – seeing one is extraordinary.

Three of the world’s most endangered species, the loggerhead, green and hawksbill turtles make an annual pilgrimage up these ivory beaches

Margaret River Vineyards

The Margaret River region reads like a who’s who of Australian viticulture: Vasse Felix, Leeuwin Estate, Cullen and Voyager Estate are all names synonymous with brilliant wines. But there are other, lesser known labels that are also worth a look, among them Arimia, Happs, Cape Grace and Si Vintners. And if you can arrange a visit to Fraser Gallop Estate (by appointment only), do. Buttery chardonnays and velvety shiraz are what the winemakers do best, in between surfing jaunts. While touring the southern vineyards, stop in at rugged Redgate Beach then continue on Caves Road for about 15 minutes until you hit a thicket of white toothpick trunks that rise up to 60m high. Boranup Karri Forest is simply breathtaking.

Buttery chardonnays and velvety shiraz are what these winemakers do best

Cape to Cape Track

The Cape to Cape Track ribbons along the Margaret River coastline for 84 miles, linking the Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin lighthouses. It takes about seven days to walk comfortably, and the track takes hikers to 40m cliffs, glassy rock pools, photogenic beaches and skyscraping forests. I’ve done numerous sections and love the day’s hike that kicks off at the left hand end of Smith’s Beach. You’ll encounter a tumble of granite boulders straddling scrubby hills, and on the other side is a magical swimming spot called ‘The Aquarium’. If you’d like a longer hike, get in touch with Cape to Cape Explorer Tours (capetocapetours.com.au) for a guided or assisted experience, including camp set up.

You’ll encounter a tumble of granite boulders saddling scrubby hills, and on the other side is a magical swimming spot called ‘The Aquarium’