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Los Angeles Water and Power grants climbers access and can easily take it away. It is absolutely critical that we remain on good terms with this agency.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points. 2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates. 3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.) 4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others. 5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

The furthest right route on the front wall of the Pub, just left of the arete. Climb some interesting off-vertical moves down low (5.9ish) to easy scramble to the big ledge. Then, get ready! Clip the first bolt with a long sling to reduce rope drag, then cast off up the steep jugs and slopers above, past three small roofs to the anchor. The crux comes at the last roof, just before the last bolt, and if you're pumped the clip might seem hard! Don't worry, nothing but air below you!

Super fun route for sure. I'd recommend using a regular draw on the first bolt off the ledge, then back clean the second draw after clipping the 3rd to reduce drag. Done this way, you don't risk a ledge fall if you blow the first roof.
Nov 29, 2014