Thanks Mike1357, on the Si-T lights I definitely recommend using your Stanley factory housings. The aftermarket bumper lights fit like shit most of the time and since you have to cut them open anyways I dremmel just before the lense on the housing then carefully chip off the small pieces left that are attached to the lense after cutting. The factory lense on the Stanley housing I do kinda the opposite and cut the lense just past where it mounts to the housing. Then chip off what’s left. It takes some time and patience to build a set but they’re well worth the effort. I like em allot.

Bseballkid1990, the lighted switches put a smile on my face every time I see them lit up when I get in my car all warmed up early in the AM. It’s a fantastic upgrade. I’ve been looking at Acura Legend lighted door switches also. I’m going to see if those can be fitted into the Legends door lock mechanism or if they will fit in our CB lock mechanisms. Then I can light the door locks too! The door lock mechanism housings seem to be similar in how they bolt to the door lock brackets also.

Bseballkid1990, the lighted switches put a smile on my face every time I see them lit up when I get in my car all warmed up early in the AM. Itís a fantastic upgrade. Iíve been looking at Acura Legend lighted door switches also. Iím going to see if those can be fitted into the Legends door lock mechanism or if they will fit in our CB lock mechanisms. Then I can light the door locks too! The door lock mechanism housings seem to be similar in how they bolt to the door lock brackets also.

I bet. It's one of those small mods that people won't readily notice it but the ones that do will really appreciate the hard work and effort you put into making it work.

Ok so for this weekends projects:
When I drive to work with the heated seats on they tend to get pretty hot on the buns as I get further on my way. I had some 91-95 Acura Legend heat adjustable buttons that I’ve been wanting to try. I had a pair but they’re in crappy shape. So today at pap I found a beautiful set. Friggin things are like new. The Legend plugs match up and plug right into the male plugs of the Acura CL heated seat wiring I have in my car already. However the Legend wiring is pinned different. The top is the repinned and the bottom is the original Legend pin arrangement.

The inner part of the button openings needed to be trimmed a little as well as some of the small nubs under the Legend buttons. Now they sit flat. They work perfect and I can raise and lower the heat so I don’t cook my cheeks by the time I get close to work lol.

Up next:
I wanted lighted lock switches to go with my window switches. I thought I might be able to use Legend lighted switches but, nope. Scratching that idea I did get very lucky today and found another set of CR-V lighted switches. In my research I have found that 4-door CB door locks will work as the internal contacts that the buttons move against are offset. CB Coupe will not because the contact is centered. Acura RL 98-? Will work best because the housing is more open. The CB 4-door has to be trimmed inside just a little so the bottom of the diffuser on the CR-V button doesn’t hit the plastic when switched. Below is the CR-V switch with one of its “legs” removed. They just pull out. Now it will fit into the CB or RL lock housing.

Here is the lock switch all together with led. Easy peasy.

A couple shots installed in the car:

They aren’t chrome but it doesn’t look bad or out of place. I wonder if there’s a chrome paint pen that I can use on these? Idk they are fine for now lol.

I received the DC Integra pfmís today. I got a very clean set in black of course because I cannot swap DC internals into CB housings. Although the housing size and shape and mirrors are the same. The internal mech piece does not bolt up the same. (Read my prior posts for more info)
I got the later DC/TL/Prelude style housing that is the (ďMc RibĒ as I call them) distinguished by the bumped out rib on the back of the housing. You can see it clear in this pic below.

No joke; this housing design looks very nice on a CB. Iím not that fond of the plain back of the stock CB mirror housing anyways. I removed the DC perch piece as it will not be used and instead the whole complete mirror will be bolted to my CB coupe perches.
Below you can see that the complete TL heated lense pops right onto the DC mech. No need to separate and swap the mirror lense backing pieces on this setup.

Moving on to getting the parts prepped for the complete conversion.
The CB perch has one beveled side where the mirror mech base mounts to it with the three bolts. So in the pic below I took my trusty Dremel, taped off the surrounding areas and beveled the internal mech. mount piece. Thereís a small round bump I ground flat also.

The image below is of the CB perch. You can see the one beveled side I had to match the mech. base to. I also nipped off the lil center nub in the round recess on the CB perch.

When you remove a set of heated lenses from a TL you need to cut past the mirror perch and through to where it runs in the door. Get a good length. Not like I did. Below is the (way to short) cut that I did, cutting them from just inside the mirror. But at least I cut them past the bullet plugs. The lenses are made to be replaced without taking apart the whole mirror after all lol.

I soldered new wires to each bullet plug then drilled a small hole in the plastic motor cover to feed the heated mirror wires through the center like the rest of the mirror wires are run. Then out and into and through the CB perch the same as the factory wires are run. The heated mirror can now be popped in and the complete mirror screwed to the CB perch.

Here is the completed assembly. From this side there is vertually no difference in the the looks of this conversion and a factory CB mirror. The only thing left is to trim the wires down and solder on the correct pins for the CB plug. The pin arrangement will correspond exactly with Jarretts diagram on page 3 of my ride thread. Thanks again Jarrett.
Well thatís one side. More to come.

Did some scoring at a few paps today. Along with some window molding, a bb4 shifter, and a sun visor for a friend overseas; I got lucky again and scored 3 sets of CR-V lighted switches.

I picked up a couple of Acura CL shifter bezels and an extra shifter boot bracket. This bracket holds the shift boot to the shifter console. It has to be cut down flush with the console so the Acura bezel can sit over everything. Iíll try and show an example build with my black interior shifter console.

After finishing up my DC/CB/TL hybridized pfmís. I put them aside till I can get the car wired for them. I turned to the variable intermittent wiper upgrade I have multiple parts for also. When I remove these parts from a car. I pull the wiring all the way down to the blue plug then de-pin the wires from that blue plug. I try to keep it as plug and play as possible. From the blue plug to the A11 controller box I then take some male pins from the other side of the blue plug and make a two wire run to the pins that go into the green plug for the A11 controller. Here is the basic components below.

Hey Jarret, are you building the Civic switch for a CB? One thing I can’t quite remember is the two wires added to the A11 controller. In my picture above I have two wires pulled straight out to the left. This plug was cut from a 95 Accord (so it’s not a cut CB plug) Are those the two wires and or two pin plugs I’m supposed to go to? I’d have to pull apart my setup in my car to see it and I’m lazy right now lol.
I might have to get up under there anyways later today.
I got a module that opens the mirrors on ignition and closes them when I walk away and the car locks. I’ll be running wires through the door of course also. So much fun.

Just to make sure I'm understanding you correctly, but you're asking where to run the additional two wires for the variable intermittent function?

The way I understood your intention was that you were getting pins for the blue column subharness connector (which is really the headlight/signal switch connector, but close enough together that it shouldn't matter) and running the two of them through that. Then on down to the green ICU connector into pins 6 and 7.

Are you asking something else?

EDIT*** Yes, those are the correct pins. Pins 6 and 7. You read the connector from the back with the clip side up. And it won't matter which of the two wires you'll connect to coming from the switch.

And yes, the goal is to use this switch in the CB. I'm currently soliciting some help on the matter from cp[mike], as my diagram reading skills could use some work, but I'm thinking it should be fine. I'm trying to adapt the whole column, combination switch, ignition, steering wheel and airbag from a newer car, though. I have no idea if the Civic switch I'm using would fit the Accord. My guess is no.

Any info on the module you're running for the folding mirrors?

__________________My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

Thanks Jarrett. I figured those were the two wires. That complete column swap sounds interesting. Oh and thanks again for the pfm wiring pin out diagram using the EP3 switch. I banged that sucker out correct the first time all soldered nice etc. I also used the factory speaker wires for the two wire run to the passenger side. Worked out awesome. So as of now the mirrors are installed and working nicely. Since Iím going to have to run wires through the doors again for the heated mirrors and the pfm controller I bought on eBay Iím going to run wires for the light in the EP3 switch and my lighted door switches. Might as well do it right so itís all turned on with the combo switch. One thing I have not checked out is where the light in the EP3 switch is?? Have you opened yours? I want to led that switch also.

Here is the pfm controller I bought on eBay. The two pics show both sides of the instruction page. Itís pretty simple. Weíll see how it works when I get at it this weekend.

Today I got the automatic power folding mirror module installed. It works like it should. I wish I had a way to upload a video. Itís really cool to see especially with my passive keyless entry. I get out of the car, walk away, it locks and the mirrors fold. I touch nothing. When I go to the car it unlocks as I get to the door and once Iím in and hit the start button to the ACC on or start the car they automatically open.

Above is the module all wired in. Itís down in a spot that has space for it to clear where the door panel goes back on. The important wires are already soldered. The door lock wires & 12v+ I just T-taped. The ACC on wire is the wht/yel wire going to the window switch plug. I also did a quick two wire plug for the power & ground for the window switch led lights. Until I run the switched wires through to the doors this is how it will be. At least now I donít have to pull the panel off and hold it while I unscrew the ground and pull the power from a T-tap. Now it just unplugs like everything else. Easy peasy.

I grabbed some climate control boards at pap today also. I need to get them ledíed so when I put my bb6 cluster in (hopefully next weekend) I end up not taking the dash apart twice. I found cpMikes diy on this so now Iíve got good directions on how to do it. Hereís a couple I pulled and tested. Just gotta get the right tip for my soldering iron and itís on.

As far as the heated mirror wiring goes I will run them to the defroster switch. If the mirrors need heat then Iím sure the back window does also. So they can all just come on together.

The automatic folding module is in post #92. Thereís a bunch on eBay for like $10-12 bucks. Idk what the brand is. Kinda your typical generic Chinese piece.

Raf99, question: does one of your pfmís fold in more than the other? Iím using USDM coupe perches. But my driver side folds in and stops at a little bit of an angle out from the window while the passenger side stops straight and perpendicular to the window.

As far as the heated mirror wiring goes I will run them to the defroster switch. If the mirrors need heat then I’m sure the back window does also. So they can all just come on together.

The automatic folding module is in post #92. There’s a bunch on eBay for like $10-12 bucks. Idk what the brand is. Kinda your typical generic Chinese piece.

Raf99, question: does one of your pfm’s fold in more than the other? I’m using USDM coupe perches. But my driver side folds in and stops at a little bit of an angle out from the window while the passenger side stops straight and perpendicular to the window.

Nope, they are the same. But I did the whole mirror/motors/guts swapped to my Canadian shells and perches. Isn't there bump stops on the perch?

Nope, they are the same. But I did the whole mirror/motors/guts swapped to my Canadian shells and perches. Isn't there bump stops on the perch?

Hmm. Iíll have to pull the driver side apart and see. When I got the driver side powered up, on the first fold it binded up and the gears inside popped a few times. Then it worked fine after a few folds. But has never folded straight like the passenger side. I even held the mirror as it opened and let the gears pop back a few times but that did not fix the angle.

Were you actually wanting some Bose speakers? Because there's a car at the jy I've been going to that has them (I think). Aren't they a little smaller than the standard speakers, but integrated into a black plastic blob thing?

Hmm. Iíll have to pull the driver side apart and see. When I got the driver side powered up, on the first fold it binded up and the gears inside popped a few times. Then it worked fine after a few folds. But has never folded straight like the passenger side. I even held the mirror as it opened and let the gears pop back a few times but that did not fix the angle.

Yaa... you got your answer there. & oh, I have to steal your ebay auto power folding mirror idea haha! Can't resist, already made the order. And.......... I may steal your CRV switches idea too, which will look good with LEDs behind the buttons too. So I'm glad you're on this site. love the work !

Some of the members here have been asking me about the Acura CL shifter bezel mod. Here is the one Iíve put together for a member in the UK. I pulled down my SE black console to show off the mod.
This is the basic look sans the shifter boot.

This mod is really for manual trans equipped cars. Idk how the bezel would work over the auto shift piece. Thereís four tabs on the CL bezel I snip off. Then the bezel can lay over the top of the auto piece I guess. Below is the surround that bolts up under the console and holds the shift boot in. It needs to be cut flush. If you look close you can see the black marker line I made around it as a reference to cut.

Here is the cut shift boot surround. I used my Dremel with a cut off disc.

Here is the surround bolted back to the underside of the console.
You would simply slip your shift boot onto the surround like it was before, bolt it back up then glue the CL bezel over the top.