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If the engine is not over heating than most lilely it isn't the thermostat or waterpump that is causing the problem. Check the heater hose coming out of the manifold and see if it is warm to hot. Next check the return line from the heater if it is still cold or moch cooler than the inlet, the most possible problem is the heater water control valve if this model has one or possible the core of the heater is plugg with slime cause by some antifreezes setting during the summer months while not being used. If this is the case than remove tihe two hoses and back flush the heater core with water pressure until it runs clear. I have had this problem before and this cured my problem. I also had to flush the engine and radatior also. Hope this help. .

you might want to have a radiator shop run a flow test on the radiator to make sure it isn't partially plugged up. it is almost impossible to guestimate if it is plugged up partially without a flow meter. and on most computer controled engines the sensors depend on the thermostat to keep the temperature within the operating range of the sensors.

You have to identify where the oil is leaking. Check the spark plugs if it has oil, you may just need to replace the oil seal in the plugs. If you meant actual burning from the exhaust, you may want to check the head gasket and the piston rings if the oil seeps into the combustion chamber.

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Related Questions:

1. The radiator cap if working correctly it will release pressure in the system provided the cap you have is the correct pressure setting. If you are having a problem with pressure then replace the cap with a new radiator cap with the correct pressure setting. Do not use a cap with a pressure setting other than the original equipment pressure spec. So you do not go to the parts store and buy any radiator cap on the shelf that fits because they come with different pressure ratings and some of these will be totally unsuitable for your car.

2. If the pressure valve is stuck in the "old" cap the pressure release system will not work.

3. Overheating
Air pockets in the cooling system can definitely cause overheating and can retard coolant flow through the system. If you are draining the radiator to replace the coolant or replacing the radiator you need to follow the correct procedures for bleeding air out of the system for that particular engine after coolant refilling. Some engines have bleeder screws on the cooling system to assist in the air bleeding procedure and some don't.

There are various causes for overheating so don't assume it will necessarily be solved by bleeding any remaining air from the cooling system and replacing the radiator cap with one that works.

Other causes can be...........
1. Faulty cooling system thermostat. (Replace the Thermostat)
2. Faulty water pump, especially if the impellers have corroded away or have disintegrated in the case of those design genius water pumps with plastic impellers. (Replace the water pump)

3. Cooling fans not working and if so the cause needs to be tracked. Check that your fans are kicking in. If the engine is overheating the fans should be running because they will switch on when the coolant reaches a specific temp and well before the coolant gets excessively hot.

4. A partial blockage in the coolant passages inside the engine but not in the radiator if you have a new one. If the coolant is not changed at the required intervals(frequently the case with many owners) or is over diluted with water you can get a build up of debris. If products like stop leak have been used in the system this can create similar problems with partial blockages inside the engine coolant passages.

5. A compression leak into the cooling system.
If you have bled air from the system and have continuous air bubbles in the cooling system I would suspect a compression leak. In that event a basic leak down test will show if you have compression gasses leaking into the cooling system and from which cylinder(s). The spark plug is removed and compressed air is forced into the cylinder via the spark plug fitting and air bubbles will show up in the coolant of there is a leak into the cooling system.
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Have the problem with overheating addressed immediately. Running the engine with an overheat condition will cause expensive engine damage many times the cost of fixing the overheating issue.

I would recommend that you flush the radiator with some Prestone radiator flush, and if that does not resolve the issue, I would recommend that you check the cooling fan, and the switch that activates the fan. If the fan is coming on as it should, then the switch is probably good, and you will want to replace the radiator.

You may have a head gasket in the throes of failing.
Some of the symptoms are coolant loss, rough running when cold (a small amount of water is sucked into a cylinder when it cools down), above average coolant temperature (causing the fan to run on).
When checking your oil, pay close attention to any signs of discoloration and sniff the coolant overflow bottle for traces of exhaust fumes.
The gasket can fail between different points; cylinder to water jacket. This causes higher than normal coolant temps and can cause hard starting and rough idle when cold. If this point fails, the combustion can force hot gases into the water jacket and then sucking in some coolant when the motor cools down. The latter can cause cold-starting problems and stalling until warmed up and free of water in a cylinder. Oil passages to coolant jacket; oil is under higher pressure than coolant which can force some oil into the water jacket. When severe, it can make Jergen's Lotion out of the oil (that doesn't help lubrication) and discolor and lend odor to the coolant. If you don't mind dirty hands, I would remove each sparkplug from the cold engine and look for signs of rust or even dewy coolant deposits on the base of the plugs; been there, seen that.Unfortunately, a failing head gasket won't set any error codes until severe enough to cause other problems to monitored areas.

Might be blown head gasket. Is there oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil? Either of these would tell you that.
Also the exhust can get into the coolant and make the coolant low all the time.
I had two Chrysler products that the exhaust forced coolant out and had a bad head gasket.

It may be the thermostat, but you should also check:-
1) Coolant level is at correct level (full) when checked cold- prior to running,
2) Cooling fan/s are running normally as they should when coolant temp rises,
3) A coolant hose on the suction side of the water pump is not collapsing (due softening) causing restricted coolant flow,
4) Radiator coolant core is not blocked, or radiator heat dispersion air fins blocked with insects/grass,
5) Engine does not have other running problems that cause it to overheat.

fluid coming out of the vents indicates a faulty heater core, but this does not explain the overheating problem. The blown heater core may only be the result. Check the coolant level.Check for coolant leaks primarily at the water pump. Check the thermostat by insuring both hoses to and from the radiator warm up. Check for foamy oil or white smoke from the exhaust indicating a blown head gasket or cracked head. Check to ensure your cooling fan is working.

It would seem that your overheated engine has warped the cylinder head and compression/pressure from the combustion chamber is adding to the pressure of the water/cooling system hence the spitting out. To verify, pls check your oil dipstick and see if the oil has turned to brownish milky color. If yes, then it calls for an engine overhaul, if not possibly air pockets inside engine water jackets.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.