Pork tinga (tinga de puerco)

It’s the time of year when folks celebrate Cinco de Mayo, that popular holiday where much Mexican food is washed down with cerveza and tequila. But even though the day commemorates a Mexican victory, it has become more of a North-of-the-border fiesta with not as much attention paid to it in its native land.

Cinco de Mayo is often mistaken as Mexican Independence Day, but that happens later in the calendar on September 16. Instead, this event marks the Mexicans’ incredible triumph (lead by the Texas-born Commanding General Ignacio Seguin Zaragoza) over the French in The Battle of Puebla (where the Mexicans were outnumbered almost two to one) on, of course, May 5, 1862.

While the French continued their attempt to take over Mexico for a few more years, this accomplishment not only boosted the Mexicans’ morale but was also a key factor in thwarting Napoleon III’s attempt to aid the Confederate states in the American Civil War. In the early 1900’s, Mexican immigrants to the United States brought the celebration with them and in the 1960’s it grew in popularity as a day to honor ethnic pride. And for good reason, as the day has long symbolized the strength of the Mexican spirit.

Today, however, much of that original sentiment is lost behind the marketing. Sadly, it’s been demoted to just an excuse to sell more beer, tequila, and tortilla chips. You don’t even have to be of Mexican descent to join in the hype. In my neighborhood, for instance, the Irish pubs are also touting the day with signs and specials, and I noticed that even a French restaurant is having a Cinco de Mayo celebration. (Clearly, they either have an excellent sense of humor or have no idea what the day really means.)

You’ll hear of people traveling to, say, San Antonio for Cinco de Mayo festivities, but rarely do you hear of anyone going to Mexico to celebrate the day. Why is this? Probably because in most of the country, they’re about as excited about Cinco de Mayo as we are about President’s Day. It’s not even a federal holiday there. My friends in Mexico City shrug at the mention of it; it’s just no big deal.
While most of Mexico takes little notice of Cinco de Mayo, at least the people in Puebla put on a proper celebration with people dancing and eating and drinking in the streets. And for good reason, the battle was, after all, fought and won in their state. So considering the holiday’s origin, if you’re having a Cinco de Mayo celebration why not serve a Pueblan dish? Two hours south of Mexico City, Puebla is a place teeming with colorful markets, exquisite architecture and fabulous food, a cuisine so wonderful that it’s been championed as the gastronomic capital of Mexico.

Unfortunately, I haven’t traveled there yet, but I have had the pleasure of sampling some traditional Pueblan dishes. There’s mole poblano, the rich and complex sauce made of chiles, nuts, dried fruit and chocolate. Or cemitas—the Pueblan’s version of a torta—a mountain of meat, avocado, cheese and chiles all sandwiched between a sweet, sesame-seed bun. But one of my favorite Pueblan delights is tinga, a lively, tangy stew made up of pork, chorizo, tomatoes, and chipotle chiles.

Tinga is a perfect party dish because it can feed many and be made a day or so ahead of time. Traditionally it’s served on crisp tostadas but it can also be wrapped in warm tortillas, piled on tortilla chips, or even eaten with a spoon out of a bowl. Some may make it with chicken or veal, but my favorite style is tinga de puerco.

Pork shoulder and tangy chorizo sausage are slowly cooked in a tomato chipotle sauce, which makes for a smoky, piquant tangle of tender meat and hearty sauce. And when you add some crumbly cotija cheese, cilantro, avocado, and a squirt of lime, you’ve not only created a delectable dish, but you’ve also paid homage to the colors of the Mexican flag.

Whether or not you celebrate Cinco de Mayo, if you like the marriage of succulent meat with spicy chipotles, you should try tinga. While I never need an excuse to eat Mexican food, I do think that serving this spirited, soulful Pueblan treat on Cinco de Mayo seems like a proper way to honor the day.

———Originally published in 2007, both the recipe and photos were updated in 2016
———

In a Dutch oven, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil on medium-low heat. Add the onion and garlic and while occasionally stirring, cook until fragrant and softened, about 4 minutes. Scrape the onion and garlic into a blender and add the tomatoes, chipotle chiles, oregano, and thyme. Blend until smooth.

Meanwhile, wipe out the Dutch oven and then add the remaining oil and the chorizo removed from its casing. On medium heat, while occasionally stirring cook for 10 minutes or until the meat has darkened.

Turn off the heat and add to the Dutch oven the pork shoulder, bay leaf, salt, chipotle tomato salsa from the blender, and water. Gently stir to combine everything, cover the pot, and then bake for 2- 2 1/2 hours or until the sauce has reduced and the pork is fork tender and can be easily shredded.

If you prefer, instead of using the oven you can place the chipotle tomato salsa, cooked chorizo, and pork in a slow cooker and cook on low for 6 hours.

Once the pork is tender, with two forks, shred the pork and then stir in the chopped cilantro and lime juice. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve warm with corn tortillas with more cilantro, avocado, Cotija cheese, and lime wedges, on the side.

Well, I think I figured out what I’m making for Cinco de Mayo. Or maybe I’ll visit Las Manitas. But a taco is going to be included in one of my meals. Biscuits came out fantastically. I just wish my oven didn’t burn the bottoms. Oh well. 🙂

Great recipe — I’m going to try it with chicken. While the meaning of Cinco de Mayo has gotten lost a bit, it’s still an excuse to sample the wonderful cuisine of Puebla. And to down it all with a cold cerveza!

I love that picture of you squeezing the lime, shibby and astounding work there. Dunno if I will be able to make this dish this weekend (busy weekend) but maybe the chipotle cupcakes may make an appearence at work. (or at least seven layer dip)

Hi Lisa! Thank you for the informative post… I’m afraid my knowledge of Cinco de Mayo is rather poor – being from the great white north and all. Perhaps some day I’ll make it south of two borders and try some of what Mexico has to offer – but until then, I’ll definately be enjoying your Tinga!

Hi Texan — I LOVE your stories and recipes — so inspiring! And guess what I’m making this wekend?! I do have a silly question, tho — when you brine the pork, do you cube it before brining or brine as a whole piece? Want to make sure I don’t over-brine. Thanks very much!

A Texas friend in Korea just sent me your link. As an ex-pat who’s been in Africa for the past year and a half, your site had me drooling in no time. I think I’m starting to look forward to going home, if nothing else but for the food! <

Today I stumbled upon your blog, and was at once intrigued and homesick. Having lived my whole life in Texas or within a couple hour’s drive of it, I am now an East Coast resident. The first spring in 38 years I have not enjoyed bluebonnets up close and personal! Needless to say, “Mexican food” and “Texas BBQ” are non-existent here. Thank you for the Ninfa’s green salsa recipe and the other yummy inspirations! Whole Foods, here I come!

It’s a lot like the big whoop we Micks make over St. Patty’s day..which is just another day in old Ireland! Who cares..we’re fun!I’m a new reader–born in TX (Temple!) but raised in Yankee-land, aka MA. Moved to TX in 2000 for more than a year. Every time I go back I eat Tex-Mex for as many meals as possible!! I have found a few holes in the wall in Sunset Park & Red Hook (Brooklyn) which are pretty damn tasty..as long as your health department standards aren’t too stringent. 😉And I can’t WAIT to try your biscuit recipe..this weekend I hope!

A great post, Lisa, and timely for me. We’ve just moved into a predominantly Mexican neighborhood in Chicago–it’s nice to have some more background on the holiday.

The brief French control had some lasting effects on Mexican cuisine, by the way–specifically the baking. France brought their own baking ingredients and techniques with them when they came to Mexico. As a result, many Mexican bakeries sell croissants, baguettes and various French pastries alongside more traditional Mexican baked goods.

eonyc–Welcome! And yes, I’ve heard people compare Cinco de Mayo to St. Patrick’s Day in that same way–I reckon you’re right, Americans just like to have fun! Enjoy the biscuits!

William–Thank you and you’re welcome! And Georgia’s not so bad…you still have Blue Bell at least!

Terry–I’ve read about the French’s influence on Mexican cuisine–there’s also some debate over which came first, the molinillo or the moulinet. And we probably wouldn’t have tortas if it wasn’t for the French.

….we started off the Cinco de Mayo “four day weekend” at Mi Cocina last night…more guacamole than you can shake an avocado at…more queso than even Mama Ninfa has seen in at least two months ( is shee still with us ??) ….a couple of Tecates, cheese and onion enchiladas…rice, refried beans…MmmmmMmmmm

In San Diego we got Cinco de Mayo off as a holiday. This looks good. The only thing that puzzles me is why brine a meat that you are going to cook in liquid anyway. I thought brining was to give extra moisture to meat when it is dry cooked (roasting, grilling, sauting). Why not add some salt/sugar to the water you cook it in? I’m only asking, because it would save you a lengthy step. I usually don’t brine because the brines I tried made the meat too salty for me and, if anything I tend to under cook meat so, drying out isn’t a problem. Great looking recipe.

The commercialization of, well, everything, is part of the reality of the world in which we live, I guess. Tinga looks inspired, however, though I’d never heard of it before this post. Braised pork is one of those things that just always seems to turn out delicious, doubly so when mixed with chipotle, herbs, lime, and sugar. To be honest, I always consider these occasions opportunities to eat well, since most feasts/holidays usually seem to be associated with a particularly tasty dish. Eating well is always the best revenge.

I lived in Las Cruces, NM until late 2004, and now I live in northern England, where the Mexican options are extremely limited at best!

This tinga recipe sounds really nice, but sadly, it’s a lot easier for me to get Spanish chorizo than Mexican! What’s the essential difference? I’ve tried my hand at re-creating the border style for my English friends, but somehow it doesn’t quite taste right. Short of hauling them all to Chope’s in Mesilla, what do I do?

Your blog is been read as far away as London England. After living in Texas (Brenham and Houston) for over 15 years. I really enjoyed your photo of the field of bluebonnets, had to be taken near Brenham.I miss Tex-Mex cooking. There is a difference between Mexican and Tex-Mex cooking. I even shipped a case of BOB’s hot Texas crisps over here by DHL, but I soon gave up on that idea after being hammered by import duty. After many years of looking I found this great Tex-Mex restaurant in London called Cafe El Paso. I went there last night to celebrate Cinco de Mayo. As you say just anoher excuse to drink beer, tequila, margaritas (top shelf only) and eat tortilla chips and Fajitas and of course refried beans. You mention that even the Irish bars are Mexican for the day, well on St Patrick’s day in USA every bar is Irish for the day, its just good marketing.

Rob–Fie on commericialization, but I agree, braised pork is one of the most succulent dishes ever. And heck yeah, if the occasion is an excuse for good food, I’m happy!

Sean–Excellent! When I come out to the Bay Area, Primavera is on my list of places to try. I’m honored to be an inspiration!

Cigarlady–No, thank you! And I’m glad y’all enjoyed it!

Amanda–Welcome! The difference, I believe, is that Spanish chorizo is generally dry where Mexican is wet. I’ve been playing around with homemade Mexican chorizo and I hope to post on it soon. In the meantime, you could experiment with Spanish chorizo or you could just double the pork. It will still taste good without the chorizo, I reckon.

Patrick–Hello from across the pond! And yes, the photo was taken outside of Brenham. How’d you guess? And you’re right on the money–Tex-Mex is definitely not Mexican food–it’s a unique cuisine all to itself! What did you think of Cafe El Paso? I have other London-based readers who are also in search of decent Tex-Mex over there and I’m sure they’d be interested in your opinion.

Mike–Wonderful news! I’m glad y’all enjoyed it!

Chicken Fried Gourmet–It’s good stuff, I bet you’ll like it. And I’d love, love, LOVE to see one of your creative interpretations of it!

Hola! I made your Tinga this weekend and it was phemomenal! I wouldn’t skip the brining — it made the pork even more flavorful and tender than had it just been cooked outright. Everyone (kids & adults alike) loved it — it travelled around this weekend to different parties and was a complete hit. Recipe’s absolutely a keeper and a “passer-arounder!”

I’ve celebrated Cinco de Mayo twice in my life only I think. Once in SF and another time in London, but it was really , like you say, an excuse to guzzle cervezas and mexican food. I appreciate the little piece of history and the education on tinga – which I’d never heard of before! 🙂

I made this this past Saturday for some friends. What a hit! My friend put down six soft tacos of this stuff, and a side bowl of borracho beans. He was so full afterwards he couldn’t function. He sat down on the couch, took off his belt and fell asleep within about 5 minutes. His wife was mortified, but, hey….what a food compliment: ‘too full to function.

Thanks so much for this recipe – I’m in the UK and only know of one decent Mexican restaurant in London. After having chicken tinga there I’d been searching around for a pork based recipe and found your website. I made this tonight and it was a great success – despite only being able to get hold of a chipotle marinade and not chipotle peppers in adobo. Thanks so much! Look forward to trying more recipes from your blog!

I made your tinga today and WOW! the flavor was great…awesome..unbelievable. I had to leave off of the Chorizo…those pesky calories and all. However, I don't think the recipe suffered at all. All in all, it was a sucess and I look forward to cooking more recipes from your blog– Thanks from Judy in the Big D.

Yum! I made this yesterday and can't wait to share with others. I had a dish made with chicken and chorizo in a creamy sauce from a local resturant, but this one was definitely better and worth the effort. My only question is the sugar component. I read and re-read and didn't see the addition, tasted at the end to see if the acid balance was too high and it seemed fine to me- so omitted. Can't imagine it being better!!

Finally made this recipe after it had been sitting in my to-try file for about a year – it was absolutely delicious! And for what its worth, I didn't have time to brine the pork, and I pressure cooked (7 minutes at high pressure, than natural release) the pork in two cups of water rather than braising it, and the dish still turned out great. Thank you!

I owe you a huge thank you for this recipe! I hosted a couple's wedding shower this past Saturday (on Cinco de Mayo!) and made this, your Chipotle Chicken Tacos, and your Salsa Verde. Everything was a huge hit and we had a fantastic party. And I live in deep South Texas, where people know their Mexican food and don't put up with imposters. I cooked both recipes the night before through the point of shredding the meat and adding the other ingredients, and finished them the next day in slow cookers to meld flavors and keep things warm on the taco bar. It was a great way to host a party, so thanks so much for running this blog!

1) That French restaurant, though… I'm guessing ignorance, but I'm hoping for chutzpah!2) I was thinking about this the other day, and I think it was you who introduced me to cotija; thanks 🙂3) Especially since it's still cool and rainy here in the Midwest, I think this may need to be on the weekend's menu.

My introduction to Tinga was in Rick Bayless's Authentic Mexican. In his book it is a stew with red potatoes I have made it so many times. The first time I made it I misread the ingredients, it called for "two canned Chipotle chilies seeded and chopped" I thought it said two cans of Chipotles… it was "almost inedible,almost.

I just made this for the second time and it is so delicious I doubt I'll be waiting longer to make it again (and again!). A word for those not able to find Cotija cheese… My market was out, so I subbed in a goat cheese feta. It crumbled beautifully and added just the right salty note. Makes a fine substitution!

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