I’m only months old in using handplanes. I’ve currently fixed up two old ones and put them in use. I’ve been just sharpening them using the same stones that I use for my pocket knives. I believe they are 200/600/1000. With that I am able to plane down the saw marks on rough cut boards but I don’t get a satisfactory smoothed board lik it seems some of the guys in YouTube videos get. Should I invest in a smoother grit stone? For you folks that hav been at this for a while.. when u use ur handplanes does it make the board smooth and ready for finish or do u still clean it up with sandpaper?

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

28 replies so far

I think you can get more out of your planes if you use finer grit.I can build without any need for sandpaper and use shapton stones.But they are not cheap.I haven’t bought sandpaper for years.I’m not trying to brag just letting ya know it can be done,and I’m nothing special.

I go to 8000 Waterstone and only strop/hone to touch up an edge. A xfine Arkansas stone and a little strop after will pretty well give you the same polish as a 8000 Waterstone with a lot less mess? Check out Lee Valley site under sharpening they is a lot of good info!There is a huge difference between a sanded surface and a Planned one, especially if you do not stain your wood.

Rob Cosman did a video where he compared 1000 and 16000 grit for finishing plane blades. Might be worth a watch. I sharpen to 12000 and if I’m doing my job correctly with the plane (still not guaranteed – I’m a noob) I can finish from that point without sandpaper. Also, if there are fine marks left after planing, rubbing the work down with a handful of shavings can take off fine marks. No sandpaper needed.

For final finish smoothing, the sharper the better. Also depends on the wood. Straight grained cherry doesn’t need to as sharp an edge as walnut burl to prevent tear out. I go down to 0.3 um. It depends on the abrasive type what grit that compares to – north of 15,000 waterstones, ~3,000 grit sandpaper. Research lapping or polishing film. With psa backing, it can be easily placed on glass or granite, and doesn’t require flattening. Great way to have high grits without spending $100’s. I use DMT Duosharp’s to start. You might be interested in this.

My finest diamond plate is ~1200 grit. I generally go straight from there to a leather strop with green compound to remove the wire edge for planes. Exception is smoothing plane which goes to a black Arkansas stone before the strop. I’ll occasionally follow the arkansas stone with some wet/dry paper if I’m working something that really requires a super-fine edge.

I think generally speaking, for general-use hand planes, you’ll probably find the stones you have are sufficient. Wouldn’t hurt to add a strop and some wet/dry paper to your collection though.

I rarely sand but more often than not, I end up scraping after planing to get to my final finish.

This honing compound, which took over two years to develop, is the most effective on the market.It is a blend of both chromium and aluminum oxide to give the best combination of cutting speed and fine finish. The bonding is formulated for ease of charging. It will adhere equally well to felt, leather or wood.

Cuts quickly but leaves a mirror finish with a light wax film. The average size of scratch pattern it leaves behind is 0.5 microns or .00002 inches. Ideal for carving tools and firmer gouges, it can be used for final honing of almost any tool. Used with a felt wheel or leather belt for power honing or with a leather strop for hand honing.

I used to only use the scary sharp methodology using SP and ending with a hard Arkansas stone. Very time consuming.

When I picked up the lathe hobby, I knew I needed a better, faster way of sharpening. I solved this with building my own belt sharpening system. It works great for lathe tools AND hand-plane cutters. I use 180grit to get the edge and finish on the buffing wheel with 10,000 polish. I can get a mirror finish (usually requires me to completely shave the back of my arms “testing” the sharpness…) ;-)

A properly sharpened plane should produce a mirror-like finish that needs no sanding. This depends somewhat on the type of wood, for example walnut can be quite reflective, while maple not so.

If you prefer the type of hand planed look on the finished surface stop there. I generally follow with a scraper. Personally, I avoid sandpaper if possible.

You need to take it up to 6-8000. Don’t know what size stones you have but you need at least a 3×8 stone for sharpening plane irons.

For resharpening or touch up I start on a 1200 diamond plate (800 if I’ve been to lazy to sharpen when it needed) then usually straight to a 8000 water stone followed by a few strokes on a leather strop.

For plane blades I usually do a slight back bevel to finish (see “ruler trick” or “Charlesworth method”). Of course, you never do this on a chisel.

THE most important thing about honing is never to the next grit till you have a burr. When restoring, be sure the back of the chisel or plane iron is flat before proceeding on the bevel.