1995 Erich Salomon/Undhof Riesling Spätlese Kremser Kögl - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (3/29/2006)Back when I last tasted this wine about 2-3 years ago it was very petrolly. Now that is virtually gone, with lots of fruit and minerality left to ride over a smooth background. Delicious wine but not the best of the tasting.

1995 Nigl Riesling Privat - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (3/29/2006)This bottle was a leaker, with more than an inch of ullage. Fear not, the wine was gorgeous, with stone, lime and an absolutely captivating, creamy texture. Fantastic and showing almost none of its 11 years. A great surprise, especially considering the condition of the bottle. Best wine of the night, and a dead soldier long before any others.

2004 Weingut Josef Leitz Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken - Germany, Rheingau, Rudesheim (3/29/2006)Tasted alongside two 1995 Austrians this wine got its butt kicked, but it's still quite good. Very dry and stern, but with good depth of flavor, needing time to round out and the right food to blossom. Rocks in a bottle.

I guess it's no suprise the scrapping young Leitz didn't show as well next to the elders in the group. I love Nigl, but all things (age) being equal, I'm a bigger fan of Leitz (and German over Austrian generally). I do like how the good Austrian producers produce riesling with dart-like focus and acidity, but Germany has always offered more depth IMHO. I'm heading to Austria this summer as part of an Alpine vacation (along with Germany and Switzerland), so I plan on doing some head-to-head and toe-to-toe comparisions for myself. Thanks for the post.