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It’s no surprise that Miuccia Prada is considered the most avant garde of modern Italian designers — last night in Milan she presented a men’s winter collection that was dedicated to the movement.

Afterwards she said that her inspiration came from German figures from the Eighties, such as Pina Bausch, the choreographer and modern dancer.

Plain, roomy blazers with wide-peaked lapels were teamed with wider trousers, with evening-wear stripes down the sides. Deep knitted V-necks were worn with a skinny neck scarf. Knee-length overcoats played as jacket substitutes. There were resolutely modern fabrics, thick-soled trainers and strap-fastening waistcoats.