the rings do move...since they ALL move its likely that they all are relatively in the same position when rebuilt...the actual piston has a circular motion to it...there is a little play at the rod, a little at the pin...etc...
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A little Google research has piston rings moving about 1 revolution per 1000 rpms, give or take. The 3 part oil ring probably moves as a unit (especially important to space them correctly), and all of them move relative to each other, so 'theoretically' my engine should smoke or not smoke just as much as it did before the timing chain broke the guide, LOL.

I do realize I'm doing this part sorta risky like, but that's ok, I'm aware of the risk and am willing to get it running first, then tear it down again if I need to.

A little Google research has piston rings moving about 1 revolution per 1000 rpms, give or take. The 3 part oil ring probably moves as a unit (especially important to space them correctly), and all of them move relative to each other, so 'theoretically' my engine should smoke or not smoke just as much as it did before the timing chain broke the guide, LOL.

I do realize I'm doing this part sorta risky like, but that's ok, I'm aware of the risk and am willing to get it running first, then tear it down again if I need to.

When I was rebuilding 2 strokes 'back in the day' they had a pin in the ring groove, specifically designed so that the end of the ring didn't rotate around and get into either the exhaust or intake port (can't remember which one right now).

cam chain feels tight. I lightly burnished the timing chain tensioner shaft and with the new spring seems to be doing what it is supposed to do.

Tonight I might be able to finish the engine assembly - if all goes well...

This is so true. On the xl500 basket case that I picked up and transported for a buddy it came to me sans the seat, cam, and cam chain. I still have his front and rear fender but I reaized that as I was unloading everything from my truck into his garage. Then yeasterday I found a rear brake backing plate that is not from any of my bikes.

Good luck on the house thing.

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Thanks on the house! It is another saga of epicly boring proportions that is dragging on and on...

Here's a quick story of my worst basket case move and reassemble. My dad (lives in Fairbanks Alaska) drove to Minnesota in his 2000 Toyota RAV-4. On the way back (very cold, -35 - -45 F) the rear seal blew, dumped his oil, and ruined the engine. A Canadian Toyota dealership took it apart. They then quoted him some outrageous price to rebuild. So, he bundled all the parts, bolted the subframe back under it, threw the engine/tranny in the back and towed it back to Fairbanks. That was in January of 2008. He proceeded to buy one of those low mile Japanese recycle engines. THEN in May he offered to buy me a plane ticket to fly up and reassemble. I did, but what a job! Toyota parts all over the place, 2 engines with different external components, buckets of bolts, a half-reassembled sub frame. Oh, then to top it off, They had a minor flood that year so the water had gotten in to the Toyota exhaust system and the rear wheel bearings. Got it done though, and the car is still running fine! Oh yeah, I love a good challenge! (or a bad one)

Sorry about the lame picture. Here's possibly a novel way (haven't seen it before anyway) of holding the clutch basket while center nut is being torqued: put a penny in the gear under the clutch basket. Put another penny at top of clutch plates. Use C-clamp and tighten against the bottom of clutch basket and the penny. It doesn't really have to be very tight, just snug. Torque the nut to 80 ft pounds! Couldn't figure out how to hold the center from spinning w/o some elaborate method, special tool, or fabrication so came up with this tonight...

Sorry about the lame picture. Here's possibly a novel way (haven't seen it before anyway) of holding the clutch basket while center nut is being torqued: put a penny in the gear under the clutch basket. Put another penny at top of clutch plates. Use C-clamp and tighten against the bottom of clutch basket and the penny. It doesn't really have to be very tight, just snug. Torque the nut to 80 ft pounds! Couldn't figure out how to hold the center from spinning w/o some elaborate method, special tool, or fabrication so came up with this tonight...

engine sits in frame as of last night! a few bolts seem to be missing on several brackets. I'll try and tighten a few bolts tonight. Cold weather, possible snow. Not motorcycle weather that's for sure...

bolts were found... How does the wire route from the ignition trigger on the right side to up under the tank? I can see all sorts of ways it could be burned by the exhaust pipe etc... also, found a 1 inch by about 4 inches in diameter black rubber band. It's torn in two. I can't see where it came from? I'll post pictures if necessary. Carbs aren't in, but I do have spark. I figure I should kick it over until I have oil at the banjo bolts at the head before I install spark plug?

bolts were found... How does the wire route from the ignition trigger on the right side to up under the tank? I can see all sorts of ways it could be burned by the exhaust pipe etc... also, found a 1 inch by about 4 inches in diameter black rubber band. It's torn in two. I can't see where it came from? I'll post pictures if necessary. Carbs aren't in, but I do have spark. I figure I should kick it over until I have oil at the banjo bolts at the head before I install spark plug?

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If you did not use assembly lube in the top end, you can put about 1/2 qt. of oil (out of the total amount needed to fill) in the top end via one of the valve adjustment ports. Then start the engine once you are prepared to loosen the line you mentioned to be sure oil is flowing before riding.

If you did not use assembly lube in the top end, you can put about 1/2 qt. of oil (out of the total amount needed to fill) in the top end via one of the valve adjustment ports. Then start the engine once you are prepared to loosen the line you mentioned to be sure oil is flowing before riding.

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thanks.

If I put the 1/2 quart through the valve cap, should I put the other 2 quarts in the top tank? Or should I add more to the lower engine?

Also, valve adjustment is .004 and .005 inch for all valves? that's what my 1988 book said I think.

do the engine to frame bolts go through from left to right, or does it matter?

I'm missing my compression release lever. The cable was taped to the handlbars. I'll have to ebay it or something...

probably will wander out to the garage tonight, brave the cold, and do a few things.

I put one quart in the frame and the other quart 'n a half in the left intake hole. Since most of the assembly is on the right side I put the bolts in from the left and nuts on the right. Your correct on the valve clearances.

I put one quart in the frame and the other quart 'n a half in the left intake hole. Since most of the assembly is on the right side I put the bolts in from the left and nuts on the right. Your correct on the valve clearances.

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Thank you!

Tonight I put the carbs on. Probably the biggest pain in the butt since I started this reassembly. Probably has something to do with 40 degree rubber boots and those carbs are pretty tight in between frame and engine.

Also, anyone have pictures of the hose routing for carbs and/or throttle cable routing? I made my best guess, but since I didn't disassemble, I may be wrong... Exhaust is next!

Tonight I put the carbs on. Probably the biggest pain in the butt since I started this reassembly. Probably has something to do with 40 degree rubber boots and those carbs are pretty tight in between frame and engine.

Also, anyone have pictures of the hose routing for carbs and/or throttle cable routing? I made my best guess, but since I didn't disassemble, I may be wrong... Exhaust is next!

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Congrats.

There is (I think) a general cable routing diagram in the XL600 manual (Honda Factory) that shows a front view of the cables' general positions. The clutch is easy, then the decompression ends up being trial-and-error (especially where the position of the lever on the bars is concerned, I liked it on the low side under the clutch, as far toward center as it can go), and the throttle twistgrip is positioned with the cable outlets on top rather than on the front side, this leaves the room for the the kill switch to be facing towards the rider like a clock face. Whatever way you can route them with the least amount of interference with each other or binding when steering ends up being correct. Get comfortable and play with them in this regard before tightening and closing it all up. Get it running and play with the bars with the cowl off and as much stuff apart. It becomes very difficult to decide if it is 'as-it-came-from-the-factory' in regards to all of the cables' positions. Just has to meet the above criteria. Do look for that Honda Factory manual illustration though, and there is a link to a free .PDF manual somewhere in The XL600 thread.

Before I forget: yes, the carbs are a pain to fit to the intake manifold and airbox boots on this bike. The one thing that helped ease the pain for me was to remove the airbox bolts and pull the airbox as far back as possible, then to push the whole thing forward as I applied the airbox boots to the rear of the carbs. It frees up substantial space. Another trick I was advised of, but never learned to apply in practice was the use of brake fluid, yes, brake fluid, not brake cleaner, to the airbox rubber boots to soften them up to more of their original condion and flexibility. Definitely seems worth a shot. Even after they're fitted, could prove useful as a rubber conditioner.

A great weekend with wifes birthday and the visiting of friends!
Bike report:
1. as of tonight: found (as I read ADVrider forums) that I had my banjo bolts in the small oil pipe reversed. So, spent a few minutes changing them over. gently kicked over the engine - oil pressure pushed oil out the top loosened banjo bolt! So, 1.5 quarts 20-w50 in the bottom, 1 quart in the top, and decent oil pressure is showing.
2. installed header. no probs. installed exhaust - oops! doesn't fit correctly. Looking closely at it, seems to be an exhaust for some kind of Honda 400. fits the header but no way fits the frame. Hmmm, I will call PO and see if he accidently gave me the wrong one. Anyone have original muffler for a cheap price? and/or, anyone need a 400 exhaust?

3. Install chain - nope. master link is missing 2 parts. Ok, no biggie, I'll go to the M/C shop some time this week.
4. Missing a bracket that holds large oil return line to the front of the frame - ebay?
5. missing manual compression lever (cable was taped to bars). ebay?
6. removed smelly old gas from tank, clean and examine on/off valve. good to go
7. install tank and fit seat. Turn the throttle over so cables are running out over the top. reroute the cables.
8. remove ugly stickers from the plastics using WD-40. No more number 126!
9. examine air filter. looks pretty pathetic. I think a new one should be ordered.
10. examine wiring: brake activator is held on by hose clamps? wiring is def. messed up in that area. Unplug/remove that and the tail light wires, which are just cut and dangling. Examine headlight wires. Look better, but the bulb is def. blown. Some future work will be necessary to get tail/brake/headlight to operate correctly.

A great weekend with wifes birthday and the visiting of friends!
Bike report:
1. as of tonight: found (as I read ADVrider forums) that I had my banjo bolts in the small oil pipe reversed. So, spent a few minutes changing them over. gently kicked over the engine - oil pressure pushed oil out the top loosened banjo bolt! So, 1.5 quarts 20-w50 in the bottom, 1 quart in the top, and decent oil pressure is showing.
2. installed header. no probs. installed exhaust - oops! doesn't fit correctly. Looking closely at it, seems to be an exhaust for some kind of Honda 400. fits the header but no way fits the frame. Hmmm, I will call PO and see if he accidently gave me the wrong one. Anyone have original muffler for a cheap price? and/or, anyone need a 400 exhaust?

3. Install chain - nope. master link is missing 2 parts. Ok, no biggie, I'll go to the M/C shop some time this week.
4. Missing a bracket that holds large oil return line to the front of the frame - ebay?
5. missing manual compression lever (cable was taped to bars). ebay?
6. removed smelly old gas from tank, clean and examine on/off valve. good to go
7. install tank and fit seat. Turn the throttle over so cables are running out over the top. reroute the cables.
8. remove ugly stickers from the plastics using WD-40. No more number 126!
9. examine air filter. looks pretty pathetic. I think a new one should be ordered.
10. examine wiring: brake activator is held on by hose clamps? wiring is def. messed up in that area. Unplug/remove that and the tail light wires, which are just cut and dangling. Examine headlight wires. Look better, but the bulb is def. blown. Some future work will be necessary to get tail/brake/headlight to operate correctly.

Do you mean a picture of the bike, or the wrong muffler. or both? Muffler bolts on to the header pipe but in no way connects to where the mount is on the frame. I'll get the part number off it too. I'll take one this evening. Thanks! L

oops, you mean the clamp. LOL. ok, i'll get a photo on line somewhere, or a part number.