Pages

Monday, November 22, 2010

Holiday Dress Test Run

So, as I mentioned on Friday, I'm planning a red lace holiday dress, inspired by this fab little Erdem number:

I'm making the pattern myself, so aside from the usual muslin, I decided to give it a test run in a simple cotton fabric (I used this voile, which would also be a great pick for the Crepe sew-along) and I'm so glad I did. I'm very happy with the shape and silhouette but it needs little tweaks: the upper bodice is too long, causing some bunching. I'd also like to move the neckline gathers more toward the center of the neck, and I'll probably make the neckline a bit lower. The fit in the bodice needs a few adjustments to make it more stream-lined. I'm going to make one more muslin before I cut into the lace. It was outrageously expensive and there won't be a single scrap to spare.

But overall, I think I'm pretty close! Perhaps the bodice is a tad too long in general?

Here's a closer view of the neckline. You'll have to excuse these photos; I had to take them at night and the lighting was horrible!

After I perfect the pattern, the next thing I need to decide on is an underlay color for the final dress. (This is essentially an underlining, except it will have to be hemmed before it's applied to the lace. The lace won't need to be hemmed because I'll place the border scallops along the bottom of the sleeves and skirt.) The Erdem dress has a flesh-toned underlay, so I tried a Bemberg rayon lining that matches my skin, but I'm not sure I'm absolutely loving it. It does really let the lace shine, though. What do you think?

Then I tried a coral charmeuse, but I'm worried the coral has too much orange to it. (Though it's actually looking more pink-ish in these photos. Ack, cameras!)

Next I tried a matching red underlay in China silk, and I'm liking this one the best. Do you agree? Or is it too same-y?

Any input will be much appreciated! The crazy thing is that I've now bought THREE different underlay fabrics just for this dress, and all because I can't make up my damn mind. Luckily, it's always good to have lining fabrics around, but seriously . . . help me get a grip!

117 comments:

It looks fab, Gertie! And I love your muslin. one question: is part of what you liked about the original dress the fact that the lace shines through? I tend to get lost on the original motivations for creating something when faced with all the possibilities, so just be clear on what drew you to the original idea first. Personally I like options 1 and 3 best but I'm sure no matter what option you decide on it'll look amazing!

Let the lace shine through. The Bemberg rayon definately. Such beautiful lace, I'm sure it'll look A-MA-ZING!Will you be posting about the dress as you make it? Would love to see it in it's various stages.Miss Pxxx

I love that the print of the voile echoes the contrast of the red lace/nude lining of the inspiration dress. I'm drawn to option one quite strongly because it will show off that gorgeous Chantilly the most, plus I feel there is something so feminine and special occasion about lace backed with a nude illusion underlay- and in this design it goes so well with the modest lines of the dress. I'd just save that luscious looking matching charmuse to make Cinnamon or something..

I especially adore the draft of the sleeves on this dress, and would love a post on how you flat patterned that perfect pouf on the sleeve cap with such a slim fitting sleeve.

I like the matching underlay. It makes it more subtle. Although perhaps I am opposed to the first one because it reminds me of a holiday tablecloth my gran had, with white under a red lace, so feel free to disregard my (biased) opinion!!

However you do it, it will turn out fantastically, although I do like the subtlety of the matching underlay.

I say the first one or maybe the third but its very matchy matchy and you don't seem to be matchy matchy. I say the first underling is the most classic of the three and very similar to the orginal dress, but hey you have to sew it and wear it. Not us. Good luck with your decision.

I seem to be in a minority group here, but I actually prefer the second or the third combintaion. The first looks stunning in this photo, but I often fins that fabric needs more contrasts in photos, the subtly beautiful tends to get lost n the camera. And there is something intriguingly and subtley beautiful about a dress where one first notices the woman, then the dress, and then one can admire the fabric.

However, I'm sure it will look great no matter what version you go with!

The muslin looks fab. I can't actually see any issues with it in the photos, but you're better placed to know how you feel it should be tweaked! It's also nice to see how the voile works. I do have a bit of it to make a top but would never have thought to use it for a dress as I worried it might be too thin and not hang well. You prove me wrong however! Did you line it, or use it as is?

I'm thinking of using a lawn for the Crepe dress. I'll be lining the bodice, and was wondering whether to line the skirt also, to give it a little more body. If this voile isn't lined though, maybe it isn't necesssary.

Re. the lace, I like #1 as it seems a shame to lose the detail of the lace.

What is the exact color of the Erdem underlay? Because it looks like she is wearing a dress with an underlay, not that she is naked underneath. The underlay looks quite a bit lighter than her actual skin, maybe that cues the viewer in that "Hey this is a respectable dress." I think the lace does need a contrast to shine, but is the color of the nuder underlay so close to your own that you are unconsciously pulling back?

I'd vote with a tone on tone. It is more subtle in showing off the lace, but I find the nude/flesh-color lining a bit awkward. Or if you wanted to get a third underlining, you would go with a lighter tone on tone variation, maybe a pink?

I like the nude underlay. It would be such a shame to not see the pretty detailing of the lace, especially since it was expensive. Perhaps because your lace has more underlay showing through than the inspiration it's not how you pictured it. You could always make three underlays and change them depending on your mood!

I like more contrast with the lace overlay--maybe a white? Or take the lace with you shopping and wave it over a variety of colors--there will be one that will pop for you. Also, at the fabric store, you can lay it out and see if large expanses of lace plus overlay can be too much. Whatever you make, I'm sure it will be stunning.

I think I also like #1 for the underlay. It's more in keeping with the original. I do agree that the bodice is a little long, especially in the side shot- shorter would be good. Beautiful muslin! Are you going to wear that one?

If it were me, I'd want the red lace over a black underlay. It would be sooo yummy and dramatic. But that's just me. Failing that... in the photos I like the contrast with the cream, but I suspect in real life I'd like the red-on-red best.

I like option 1 best - but I know that for the 'fancy dress' Christmas parties I go to (all work functions) it would be considered a little too racy. If your parties are not being hosted by old fuddy duddies, then I'd say go for it and let the lace shine!

I like the nude underlay the best. It shows off the lace the best. I also happen to be partial to contrast. I could also see if the lining matches your skintone you may actually feel naked when you look in the mirror while wearing this dress. (that would be my concern but you may be different) In that case I would defer to Jeff's opinion since I am assuming he is the kind of guy who wouldn't let you leave the house looking naked. Otherwise, I think the red on red will be more subtle but just as stunning in real life.

At first I thought the bodice looked good in length, but from the side I can see why you'd like to shorten a bit. The internet really does have some disadvantages in gauging the fit on someone else!! And I like the neckline on the muslin - you can carry off a higher neckline and with the shapely legs being shown off it's awesome! :-)

For the underlay - I like the idea of tone on tone, but agree that it's nice to have the contrast to show off the lace. Option #1 isn't doing it for me - too prom dress -slash- table cloth with the total contrast! If you could find a fabric that's got a little subtle colorplay in the weaving- you know, with, say red on the warp and purple on the weft so it's irridescent? With purple being the dominant color (or some other great color) which would provide the contrast, but with the iridescent red coming through to tie it all together?

I'm partial to the first underlay, but I think they would all look fabulous. One thing, though: I'd drop the neckline a tad. The Erdem dress exposes more of Michelle William's clavicle than your pattern does and I love that, especially for an evening dress.

Hi Gertie. As you spent so much on the lace, it would be nice to "see" it and show it off - I'm liking option #1. Agree with you that the bodice is a tad too long, just a minor tweek is needed. Is the lace very fine? I only ask because you might have to be careful with any pleats around the neckline. Can't wait to see the finished dress, it's going to be beautiful which ever option you go with!

I think you should try a honey colored silk charmeuse. It would give the fabric the nude appearance you want but also give your skin a golden-type glow. Are you going to add a thin strip of piping to the waistline? I think that would really set this off. Can't wait to see the finished dress.

How about some light turqoise, or other slightly cool green or blue? I'm picturing something in the same hue or whiteness as the nude, but I'm also not loving the first option the most. I think the color of your lace might be a little more magenta, and your colorings are different than Michelle Williams'. But a light tone that still has some contrasting color might suit your personality well (and still show off the lace)!

Here is a link for a visual: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_MqnNKdEtl5I/S7zY1qSCBtI/AAAAAAAAAYU/bGcqncZstBA/s400/mint+magenta+bow+hb.jpg

The red silk is classy and will give the dress an understated look which you, I think, will enjoy for a longer time. Also, I find the flesh-tone underlay to be, well, should I dare say, trashy. Ouch! People tend to look under the lace for what else may be there....Flash, er, flesh... is just that...Flash, and it's over...Those that do not know quality will miss the lace, 3D or not! I love the idea of having to be closer to the dress to see the lace, then the compliments will flow! Remember, you will be in a room, not on a red carpet walk by. Right? And....thank you for the wonderful blog!

I too love the dress design (your muslin looks wearable) and the beautiful lace. I am also leaning toward the nude (which seems in the photos to be more of an off-white) but I am very intrigued by Carolyn's suggestion of a honey shade in charmeuse.

It seems that the people have spoken, but I'm not a huge fan of the nude underlay. I'm not sure if I'm interpreting the scale of your photo correctly, but it looks like your lace has a larger pattern on it than the inspiration dress, revealing larger swathes of "skin" and creating higher contrast overall. If so, I think nude underneath would be a bit much. It is nearly impossible to judge the other two photos, however. I don't like the idea of red on red, I would definitely look for something more subtle than nude and less subtle than red. Coral would be perfect in theory (and it's one of my favorite colors to wear), but I really can't tell from your photo. I also think that a very warm purple of the same value and chroma (intensity) as your red lace could be lovely (similar to the coral, but moving slightly towards blue on the color wheel instead of towards yellow).

Of course, your dress is beautiful! But I do think that the bodice may be a tad long. A shorter bodice will make your dress sweeter. On Michelle Williams the bottom of the sleeves and the waist line up.

Yes, the bodice definitely should be shortened a hair, and I think you should drop the neckline a little bit. It's hard to judge from pictures, but I think the nude underlay is the best option as it really shows off that gorgeous, expensive lace you bought!

I think the dress wont be the same as the Erdem one if you dont do a nude underlay and the lace will be lost. but I can see why you are a bit ify, i think the "holes" of plain netting are too bi, but remember that the skirt will be gathered and reduce this. I think you should post a picture of the gathered lace over the nude lining and see if thats better.

From the photos I think the flesh-tone underlay has the best impact, but I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable wearing it.

I do have a question for you; where and how do you store and keep all your fabric? Personally mine tends to stored in piles of paper bags, or plastic boxes beneath my bed. It certainly makes looking for that one perfect fabric a work-out, but I'm convinced there has to be a better way. Do you use any kind or system, or specialised storage device? Or do you have a room buried in fabric like me?

My first thought was (as you said) that the neck line needed to be a little lower to match the inspiration dress. It's a cute pattern. I think overmatching the color of the lace with the lining would waste all the money you spent, not to mention the loss of the beautiful intricacies of the lace. Let the lace shine! I guess it must take some guts to wear something flesh colored under lace, but that's part of the beauty and sexiness of the dress.

I definitely think the red-on red is too monotone, and the details of the lace get lost. At that point, you might as well have bought a cheaper lace. The first is definitely more true to the inspiration, but if you don't like the concept of flesh tone, you could try a pale yellow, lavender or grey and get a nice contrast out of it. The coral may not work because it is too bright. You could try a more muted medium tone, which would give a subtler contrast, but still show off the lace. I'm thinking a golden honey, robins egg blue, or a stormy grey.

Your first try at the pattern looks good, and is definitely a wearable dress, but I can see why you would want to bring the neckline down on a special occasion dress.

I vote for option #1 so you can see the details of the lace. With the other two, you lose the lace pattern, like others have said. It's too same-y and in photos (because it's a holiday dress!) the peachy lining will show off the texture and interest of the lace. What a gorgeous dress it's going to be! I quite like the test dress too

I vote lining #1, simply because the lace is so gorgeous (and 'spensive!) that I'd want it to be the unquestioned star of the show. It gets a little lost with options 2 and 3. If you the flesh tone isn't inspiring to you, you could try out some other light color underneath - a soft pink, lemon sorbet yellow, or dove grey, perhaps.

how about the red china silk with a skin tone organza over it or the skin tone with red organza over? It might give the lace a bit more definition - you don't want to lose the lace if it is too matchy - but just the skin tone looks like lingerie - does this make any sense?

Your bodice does look a little long, it's not hitting at your natural waist. Especially for something as fitted as the holiday dress, I'd go shorter. I like your idea of lowering the neckline, will look beautiful.

And I also vote for lining #1. It shows the lace better but also looks more retro to my eye.

I'm intrigued by Patty TSB's comments about a woven with red threads.....I do prefer #1, but would like a deeper "flesh" or tan tone....how about a bronze? But I have a good friend who says "if it's pink, make it pinker..." Can't wait to see the finished version.

I like the contrasting underlining. Good suggestion about a shimmering honey gold. Also, I would audition a medium silvery grey, or charcoal. The shimmer (not sparkle) might just add nicely to the holiday effect. Silvery pearl earrings.........

I prefer a pale underlay. I would try the lace against a variety of colors: pale pink, pale aqua, pale silver grey, pale sky blue, apricot, etc, etc, etc. I love seeing the lace. What a beautiful dress it will be!

I prefer a pale underlay, but I think I would use something in the pale pink or cream category so it wouldn't look like lingerie. One of the problems with using a nude underlay is that if the underlay is too close to actual skin color, it looks unlined, causing people to do double takes.

Well, you've quite a few votes now...I do like the nude lining for its contrast, but I think the lace pattern is much too large for it. I think a light pink or light purple might be a better choice, it would still set off the lace but you wouldn't have the fleshy color. Just what you needed - a different underlining suggestion, right ;)Red on red - I wouldn't, but that's just me.The bodice is really only just a tad to long, not very much.

I agree that the skin tone lining looks best. It really showcases the stunning lace. I am having a similar issue with a skirt I'm making from perforated black leather. It turned out to be much more revealing than I realized, and I've tried many colors, but only a light color lining underneath it showcased the pattern of little holes that I want to feature.

I think the lace should have a contrast underlay, like another person mentioned, you could always go for a warmer cream colour if you're worried about the stark contrast. I notice that the original has smooth shoulder caps, but you have them puffed, dont't know if you prefer that look?! I would definitely agree with you on dropping the neckline and widening it a smidge to fall more on the shoulder bone itself. Either way I think it will be a stunner.

I think the contrast is best (ie. #1) if you want to achieve a similar look to the beautiful Michelle's dress. Once the lace is sewn it will drape over itself more whereas in the picture the single layer of lace may look a bit stark over the lining but that won't be the final look.

If you wanted something less contrasty I would move more into a deeper latte colour than go with coral or red. Definitely this lace needs to be showcased.

Oh gosh, yes, deffo go for the first one - the nude underlay. You have inspired me with that picture of that dress and I also want to do a version of my own, and wear those leopard print shoes with it. Such a FAB look.

good luck with the sewing Gertie, you are so fast I don't know how you keep turning all these dresses out!xxx

cCan I humbly suggest that you take a really close look at the neckline of the original. It is those strong horizontal clavicles that life your eye away from a 'block' of lace. There is some underbust shaping on the original that, along with the underwear creates a good third dimension so to speak. So your instinct for tweaks is spot on - maybe even a little more tweakier than you first thought for the neckline. I am in the contrast camp - especially for a short dress - and I would want to try a little more strongly coloured neutral with a little more warmth ie barely milked coffee etc.

Can I humbly suggest that you take a really close look at the neckline of the original again, now that you have such a marvellous block to work from. It is those strong horizontal clavicles that life your eye away from a 'block' of lace. There is some underbust shaping on the original that, along with the underwear creates a good third dimension so to speak. So your instinct for tweaks is spot on - maybe even a little more tweakier than you first thought for the neckline. I am in the contrast camp - especially for a short dress - and I would want to try a little more strongly coloured neutral with a little more warmth ie barely milked coffee etc.

love the cotton version! i reckon you need a lining that shows off the lace. maybe try a different skin tone or off white. it's hard for any of us to really say since we only have photos, but i'll bet it'll look awesome when you have it done.

I'm also voting for the 'nude' lining. However it depends on the overall look you are aiming for. The nude gives the dress a lighter feel. Maybe the reason you're not loving the nude look is because it's the wrong colour tone (or shade) for you. You can still go for that nudish look, without using your skintone, by using a darker shade.

The long bodice on the test run is begging for a belt. It makes you look very tall and slim. I am not sure I would change it until I wore a wide belt with it. I vote for the nude underlay. It photographs best, and will catch the eye best.

I think you definitely need to make the neckline a little deeper and wider to get that lovely sweep under the clavicles.

I also like the high contrast between the lace and the flesh-colored lining, but it may end up looking like you're for-real naked with the large pattern in the lace. It looks to me like the original dress has a second layer of lace or netting that comes up from the waist over the bust, leaving an single-layer opening in the middle and on the sides/arms. That might work well to give more "coverage". Alternately I think having something that will still be high-contrast but not give the illusion of nakedness might be better. I think a honey/matte gold would be lovely with your coloring.

I like the skin toned lining the best. However, different shade might be more flattering to the lace. Perhaps little bit more cream than beige? Oh dear, did I just suggest you buy one more lining... oops :D Anyway, I can't wait to see how it looks when it's done. That lace is gorgeous! In my opinion the sleeves on the first draft look a bit too long, but I'm sure when they are made of lace it's perfect. Lace makes sleeves look more delicate than opaque material.

i like the skin-colored one. you bought that lace to show it off! i wouldn't go with either the pink or the red. if you don't like the skin-tone, maybe go completely different--lavendar? bright white?--liz

Hmmm... I think I like 1 and 2 the best. It might look cool to layer a red or coral mesh or chiffon between the lace and the nude. I think it will look great either way, though. I definitely agree with your choice to drop the neckline. The exposed collar bone in the original is so sexy, without being trashy. And I think a slightly shorter bodice will emphasize the nipped-in waist.

I love your test dress--the fabric is so cute! (It's been on my wishlist for awhile... must get some soon! lol.) I think you're right in the fit assessments thus far--the bodice definitely needs to be shortened a tad. I love the silhouette on you!

For the lace, I have to admit I'm most in love with the first inspired by the original. The red on red (last) is lovely, but I feel like it really doesn't showcase the beauty of the lace as well. It looks more like a texture fabric, rather than lace overlay (at least in the photos--in real life I'm sure it's different! ;). Considering the lace was pricey, I'd say show it off!!! :D

I love the proportions of the model dress and agree that by making the bodice shorter, you'll replicate it and it will be super flattering. I also agree with moving the gathers closer to the center! Brilliant! I have been looking for a pattern like the one your making, I love a 50s-esque dress with sleeves! As for the underlay I think both red and nude options are great but the question is are you going to make the sleeves like those on Michelle Williams (i.e. just lace with no lining -i think that is what is going on atleast) if so, I think the nude underlay will look better. I personally like that idea BUT if you were going to line the sleeves anyway, go with what speaks to you!

I also think you should go with the nude, the matching would definitely not show off the lace (especially in relatively dim holiday party settings!). Your projects inspire me to keep practicing my sewing!