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This pin puller has been designed to avoid any part of the tool touching the bridge wood so that it will not scuff and bruise the bridge wood surface. Ther is a secure mechanism that clamps the pin, by tightening a clamp bolt, which means the pin is pulled without the puller jaws slipping off.
Achieving this has involved a simple design using a clamping jaw mechanism.
The jaws need to be only 1mm thick to get into the recess below the pin head.
To make such jaws strong enough has required the use of the high performance Engineering grade reinforced nylon. This is an incredibly strong plastic material, which is gentle on surfaces but also incredibly strong - its also used for things like tyre levers, levers for removing car trim and mini propellors.
The result is a new design of pin puller , never seen on the market before, that works extremely well.
Main Features:
This pin puller tool provides an efficient and easy to use solution to extracting bridge pins.
1.The jaws are adjustable so when over the pin they can be tightened to ensure jaws fit on the pin - usually between the pin head and the pin skirt.
2. Made of incredibly strong glass reinforced nylon based material.
3. Makes pin pulling easy - even for the most stubborn pins.
4. No part of the puller has to touch the bridge wood, so minimises the risk of scuffing the surface of the guitar.
I make custom bridge pins and have always worried about how they are pulled from the guitar. I have designed and manufactured a pin puller that works extremely well. It has been tested on literally 100s of different pins and has succeeded in pulling all of them - no matter how firmly pushed into the pin slot they are.

This is a 10 degrees Angled Bevel File, which is this is much steep than the stanard 35 degree bevel file.
The diamond file which is mounted in a holder allows it to be guided along the fretboard with the file cutting an accurate bevel on the fret ends.
The handle is constructed from very low friction, high grade engineering
The main advantage of using a Bevel File is that a really consistent professional job is achieved where all the fret ends are at the same angle. This main point about bevelling is to make sure there are no sharp edges or uncomfortable fret ends which hamper playing. If a fret end is too long then it disturbs the feel of the neck as the players moves around the fretboard; if the fret end angle is too shallow then the string can easily start to slip off
The cutting file is a fine grit diamond file which leaves a good finish and all that is needed is the final light sanding to remove any scratches or uncomfortable edges and finally a polish.

This is a 45 degrees Angled Bevel File
The diamond file which is mounted in a holder allows it to be guided along the fretboard with the file cutting an accurate bevel on the fret ends.
The handle is constructed from very low friction, high grade engineering
The main advantage of using a Bevel File is that a really consistent professional job is achieved where all the fret ends are at the same angle. This main point about bevelling is to make sure there are no sharp edges or uncomfortable fret ends which hamper playing. If a fret end is too long then it disturbs the feel of the neck as the players moves around the fretboard; if the fret end angle is too shallow then the string can easily start to slip off
The cutting file is a fine grit diamond file which leaves a good finish and all that is needed is the final light sanding to remove any scratches or uncomfortable edges and finally a polish.

This is a spare file for our miniature bevel file. The file length is 45mm. The diamond file passes through a slot in an angled block. Where the file exits the block a 90 degree or 35 degree angle is made.
The file fits the slot securely and is held in place with an allen screw to prevent the file moving.
By sliding the file into the block either the 90 of 35 degree angle is obtained and the amount the file protrudes from the block can also be altered.
This tool is ideal for bevelling the odd fret or for doing a few frets following a partial refret. Our larger bevel files are recommended for bigger jobs. Ideally this short file , at only 45mm, is best used to produce the correct angle on a single fret.
Reducing the length of the fret to roughly the correct length is best done using a longer ,coarser, file - and to use this little file to finish the angle correctly and get a nice smooth finish.

Guitar String Winder Made from English Oak Hardwood
Here is our version of the standard pin winder design. This has a Oak Hardwood body that is recessed to fit over a standard 25mm long tuning peg. This wood surface is gentle on the guitars tuning pegs.
The handle is about 20mm diameter turned Oak with nylon bushes each end.
The wooden handle makes it comfortable and easy to use - makes winding the tuning pegs easy !
Bass versions and smaller versions for Mandolins, Ukelele are all available

Guitar String Winder Made from English Oak Hardwood
Here is our version of the standard pin winder design. This has a Oak Hardwood body that is recessed to fit over a standard 25mm long tuning peg. This wood surface is gentle on the guitars tuning pegs.
The handle is about 20mm diameter turned Oak with nylon bushes each end.
The wooden handle makes it comfortable and easy to use - makes winding the tuning pegs easy !
Bass versions and smaller versions for Mandolins, Ukelele are all available

Guitar String Winder Made from English Oak Hardwood
Here is our version of the standard pin winder design. This has a Oak Hardwood body that is recessed to fit over a standard 25mm long tuning peg. This wood surface is gentle on the guitars tuning pegs.
The handle is about 20mm diameter turned Oak with nylon bushes each end.
The wooden handle makes it comfortable and easy to use - makes winding the tuning pegs easy !
Bass versions and smaller versions for Mandolins, Ukelele are all available

This kit consists of sandpaper grits 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 grit and then 12,000 micromesh. A spring steel strip is also included to protect the fretboard.
Its only a couple of rubs with each item and a mirror finish will result.
The spring steel strip is a well proven tool I make and sell - it is made of hardened spring steel with remarkable properties - this strip is only 0.1mm thick but it will last forever and never kink.
The sand papers glides across the surface of the fret and protector strip very easily, making this job so much easier and quick.

Constructed from Beech with Cork on neck contact surface with softwood ramp This is a simple design of neck rest consisting of two parts
1. The part that the guitar neck sits in. This is a "V" shape cork surface attached to a heavy block made from Beech Hardwood.
2. A softwood ramp. This provides an incline of about 20mm in 240mm. The hardwood neck rest can be placed on the ramp to give slightly angle the neck upwards.
It weighs about 850g.
The back of the neck sits in a stable position in the V and the cork provides a good surface that will not scratch the guitar and not let it slip. I have also put a layer of cork across the base of the hardwood rest, so it does not slip on the ramp or whatever surface it rests on.
It takes care of the supporting interface to the guitar neck - the height it supports the back of the neck is about 40mm. further packing (simple sheet wood) to get the height to match a particular guitar may be needed.

The most reliable way of measuring the action of a guitar is to compare the height of the string to something of known height also sitting on the frets . This is best done visually without touching the string or the gauge.
The gauge is basically a thick aluminium sheet with steps milled into it that are 0.1mm lower each step - the steps are 5mm long. The steps provide a very accurate visual height reference that can be placed anywhere on the fretboard.
A little handle has been milled on each end of the gauge - used when the guitar gauge is positioned by both hands and the guitar is in normal playing position. Alternatively with the guitar laid down horizontally the gauge can rest on the guitar fretboard without to support it by hand - this means you can carefully and adjust the gauge position and carefully judge the action without having to hold anything in position. An advantage as then you cannot possibly change the string position by accidentally touching it.
A typical use is to place the gauge behind the lowE string at the 12th fret and slide the gauge along so its height matches the string height then you have a direct measurement of the action.at the 12th fret - which is typcially 2.3mm for lowE and 1.8mm for high E. The gauge covers these regions of height in 0.1mm increments and so offers a very precise way of assessing the action..

This neck rest / neck caul is available in many different lengths. Please contact us if the size you require is not listed.
This is a simple design of neck rest consisting of a "V" shape cork surface attached to a block made from RedWood Pine
The back of the neck sits in a stable position in the V and the cork provides a good surface that will not scratch the guitar and not let it slip. I have also put a layer of cork across the base of the rest, so it does not slip on the surface it rests on.
The rest takes care of the supporting interface to the guitar neck - the height it supports the back of the neck is about 40mm. further packing (simple sheet wood) to get the height to match a particular guitar may be needed.
As a guide
1) the 200mm, 240mm and 300mm sizes are suitable for standard sized guitars;
2) the 75mm and 150mm sizes can be used as smaller guitar OR as head support on standard guitars;
3) the larger 370mm and 440mm are suitable for bass guitars.

Fret Pullers, ground by us to ensure the jaws can get low enough on the fret profile

This is a pair of fret pullers - we modify a standard pair of pliers by hand grinding and reshaping the ends - this makes them really grip the frets and allow the user to control how they pull the fret out. Usually its best to ease it out little by little to avoid damaging the wood of the fretboard.
They are suitable for gripping in one hand. Our tests show that jaws (about 10mm across) allow a high pressure to be applied to the fret curved surface - and this means a very good grip is achieved allowing a controlled withdrawal of the fret. Fret pulling is a delicate operation and requires small,light and accurate tools which grip well.
The whole process is reliable and controllable using this tool compared to using ordinary unmodified pliers - see the picture comparing the way in which the grip is achieved.