Oh, I'm so sorry to see this. My dad was a welder and he called this, white metal..... really hard to 'weld'. But I'd think trying some JB weld would be worth it. If it doesn't work, you're no worse off.... have to find a new one at that point. I'd try it. Good luck.

Yes, you can JB Weld it. Clean it with denatured alcohol first then put the JB weld on and try to clamp it. Let it set for at least 24 hours then clean off the excess JB W and paint it with model paint or a Magic Marker.
How long it will hold is the question. Preparation of the broken places is critical. All oil, paint, dirt must be removed.

Oh, I'm so sorry to see this. My dad was a welder and he called this, white metal..... really hard to 'weld'. But I'd think trying some JB weld would be worth it. If it doesn't work, you're no worse off.... have to find a new one at that point. I'd try it. Good luck.

nanna

Thanks nanna! I think I've also heard of it called pot metal? They really liked it for cars in the 80s.... maybe it's not the same thing, this machine is 1930ish (I knew at one time, but I've forgotten.)

I was so frustrated too, this machine has been handing me challenge after challenge. I might have yelled something not very nice when it happened too. A really tight for no (apparent) reason motor, all the wiring needing to be replaced, and that plate that goes over the knee controller is just in the wrong place to make working on the controller "easy". I worked on a 28, easily 25 years older later that day and had less trouble with it.

Originally Posted by J Miller

Yes, you can JB Weld it. Clean it with denatured alcohol first then put the JB weld on and try to clamp it. Let it set for at least 24 hours then clean off the excess JB W and paint it with model paint or a Magic Marker.
How long it will hold is the question. Preparation of the broken places is critical. All oil, paint, dirt must be removed.

After that, hunt down one that's not broken.

Joe

Oh good!! Thanks Joe! I take it denatured alcohol is different than the isopropyl alcohol in the bathroom?
Yeesh,... I will do what I can, but I'm not sure where I will be able to clamp. (Everything is rounded) I will be as creative as I can.

Hopefully it will last long enough that I can be a little more choosey. The one that I can find is older, probably from a 27, and missing a lot of paint, etc. That said, I'm ordering stuff from that guy for other machines, and it's less than $13, so maybe I should just suck it up?

Oh good!! Thanks Joe! I take it denatured alcohol is different than the isopropyl alcohol in the bathroom?
Yeesh,... I will do what I can, but I'm not sure where I will be able to clamp. (Everything is rounded) I will be as creative as I can.

I think some rubbing alcohols have a very high alcohol content but in general, yeah - denatured doesn't have the water/oil that rubbing alcohol usually has (and the alcohol itself is different but I don't know that that would make a difference in use.)

Clamping odd shapes is a challenge. I've had luck elsewhere (not sewing machine related) tacking boundary boards that will keep everything from shifting to a backing board on a backing board then wedging as tight as I can without the piece moving out of plane (i.e. buckling.)

You can hold it while JBing it with modeling clay. Also, drilling and pinning should hold it well. A machine shop can drill it for you. Either way it will cost about the same, except no shipping charges.

My 2 sons are into stockcar racing & one of them ran an engine for several races with a 4" crack in the side of the block that my hubby had patched with JB Weld. He says it takes about 24 hrs to cure though.

I think some rubbing alcohols have a very high alcohol content but in general, yeah - denatured doesn't have the water/oil that rubbing alcohol usually has (and the alcohol itself is different but I don't know that that would make a difference in use.)

Clamping odd shapes is a challenge. I've had luck elsewhere (not sewing machine related) tacking boundary boards that will keep everything from shifting to a backing board on a backing board then wedging as tight as I can without the piece moving out of plane (i.e. buckling.)

This stuff is 99% alcohol ... I always feel like there's a residue left when I use rubbing alcohol though. I wash my hands or whatever to remove it. I guess that wouldn't be good in this case, right? I will see about finding some denatured alcohol.

Thanks for the idea about tacking the pieces.

Originally Posted by jljack

You might just want to find a new bobbin winder on eBay...they are on there quite often. Usually around $15 or so. Try Joe's suggestion first, and if not satisfied or it breaks again, then get one.

I think you're probably right. I guess it would be nice to keep it original, but JB weld isn't exactly original either.

Originally Posted by DonnaMiller

You can hold it while JBing it with modeling clay. Also, drilling and pinning should hold it well. A machine shop can drill it for you. Either way it will cost about the same, except no shipping charges.

The model clay wouldn't stick to the JBW? We have a drill press here, would that be sufficient?

Oh! I wonder if I could use our strap wrench to hold it. Thanks for the ideas!!

Originally Posted by noradi

My 2 sons are into stockcar racing & one of them ran an engine for several races with a 4" crack in the side of the block that my hubby had patched with JB Weld. He says it takes about 24 hrs to cure though.

I would totally believe it. I run a motorcycle forum, and the things I've heard of them using JBW for is unreal. Years. Years they'll use things that have been welded.