Editor’s Picks

The Northern Neck, the Chesapeake Bay Wine Trail and the American Viticultural Area (AVA) are situated on the most northern Virginia peninsula (or neck) on the western shore of the Chesapeake Bay bounded by the Potomac and Rappahannock rivers and Middle Peninsula. Virginia’s Northern Neck has been the site of significant historical activity since Captain John Smith was taken up the Rappahannock River as a prisoner of the Powhatans in 1607. Additionally, the region gave birth to many prominent historical figures, including George Washington, James Madison, James Monroe, and Robert E. Lee.

As with a lot of early colonial regions, economic development thrived near the easily navigable waters of the Potomac and Rappahannock Rivers. Combined with the fertile growing soils of the area, the Northern Neck was one of the wealthiest regions in Virginia for tobacco, mixed vegetables, and grain farming.

Today, seafood, beaches, mixed farming, and agri-tourism bring Virginians from all over the state to breath the deep salt air, eat the famous blue crabs and oysters, visit a significant number of historical sites, and run-up and down the Chesapeake Wine Trail.

Roman Statue at Ingleside Winery

Tasting Room at Ingleside

Wine cultivation along the Chesapeake Wine Trail on the Northern Neck began in 1980 at Ingleside Vineyards – one of Virginia’s largest and oldest wineries. The AVA, founded in 1987, has grown in the past thirty years to over seven award-winning wineries stretching from north of Tappahannock down to Irvington and run the gamut from a small farm to large venue wineries…so there is a flavor for everyone from the “Wine Geek” to the “Just driving by.” According to R.D. Thompson, President of the Chesapeake Bay Wine Trail and owner of the trail’s newest winery Caret Cellars, a few more wineries are coming online soon!

New Tasting Room at Caret Cellars

Each winery on the trail offers its own tasting experience and can be completed in one weekend. I took a more relaxed approach. By slowing down, you can spend time chatting, catch some great music or visit one of the many historical homes like Pope’s Creek Plantation or Stratford Hall. If you go to the Chesapeake Bay Wine Trail website, you can find an excellent set of recommended itineraries to help you plan the perfect visit. Transport is offered by many providers including Bay Transit, and Tours of the Northern Neck.

Tasting Room at Jacey Vineyards

Tasting on the trail is a relaxed affair and can be reached by car, tour, or boat. A boat, you say? Jacey Vineyards is one of the few wineries in the country that visitors can arrive in a boat and dock in a private cove. You say you have a taste for a Virginia bi-valve? Irvington’s Dog & Oyster Vineyard offers “Slurp and Sip” specials guaranteed to satisfy your salt and wine tasting pairing.

Dog and Oyster Vineyard

Patio at Dog and Oyster

Sip and Slurp

Good Luck Cellars

Generals Ridge Cellars

Generals Ridge Cellars

Generals Ridge Cellars

Lodging is plentiful and is available at some wineries – General’s Ridge Vineyard, Ingleside Vineyards, and The Dog and Oyster.

Next time you have a desire for something salty, think about taking a day and trying a little Sip and Salt on the Chesapeake Bay Wine Tour.

Ever since opening its first small tasting room in 1980, Barboursville Vineyards came to be known for producing wines focused on their enjoyment at the dinner table with family and friends. The opening of Palladio Restaurant, nearly 20 years later, represented the distillation of a lively fame for very attractive hospitality, sustained by year after year of legendary Guest Chef feasts. But the inevitability of the restaurant was clear from the beginning, in the winegrowers’ selection of wine grape varieties which would flourish in this new terroir, so that the resulting wines would be the best the ground could give.

Executive Chef Spencer Crawford

The resolve to create the restaurant thus awaited only the moment which would demand it, which came with the discovery of Octagon. In the early 1990s and mid-1990s, the indisputable anchoring of leading red Bordeaux varietals — Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, leading ultimately to Octagon — produced that moment, to create Palladio Restaurant by 1999, as an informal, gracious, and irrefutable proving ground for the wines. With this mission, Palladio Restaurant also introduced two concepts which are now widely familiar: a kitchen’s own garden, with select produce specified by the Virginia-born Executive Chef, Spencer Crawford, and the menu degustazione, composed for every meal by Sommelier Alessandro Medici of Bergamo, Italy to give a seasonally rotating frame for appreciating selected wines with ideal pairings.

Sommelier Alessandro Medici

Within two years, Palladio Restaurant was rated by the critic John Mariani as “one of the finest and most authentic Italian restaurants in the United States.” It has entered every shortlist of the best in the region, and the best nationally among winery restaurants, including Food & Wine’s Top 10 in America. At the same time, if it is remarkable for any restaurant to flourish so vigorously for 20 years, it has only been what had been expected for it, as the vineyard’s wines became finer and finer, and as the restaurant could draw on vintages of beautifully advanced age, to prove beyond doubt their great longevity in bottle. It isn’t so strange that Palladio Restaurant is 20 years old. Ever searching and selecting the finest ingredients, ever attuned to what’s fresh, contemporary, and authentically regional, Palladio owes very little to fashion, but as much as possible to the beautiful and timeless.

Remember the stifling hot Virginia Summer of 2019? It was on a July day that a box arrived at DW&S headquarters from Virginia Cider. For me, it was “Christmas in July.” The cider association sent DW&S a virtual cider festival, in a box. I could not wait to chill-down the cider and start tasting.

The DW&S Team loves to entertain family and friends with Virginia craft beverages and food. As I tasted each Virginia Cider, I made a list of foods to pair with each. With the holiday season on the horizon, you may find an idea or two.

This year’s Cider Week Virginia is November 15-24th, 2019. Virginia Cider lovers can attend seminars, food pairings, and special events all week. To whet your appetite for Virginia ciders, I made notes while tasting from the box. Virginia has become a leader in the national hard cider scene; so, the ciders included in the tasting box only represent a slice of the apple.

Albemarle CiderWorks “Gold Rush”

Albemarle Cider Works celebrates the tenth anniversary this year; so, I was happy to see Gold Rush in the tasting box. The Gold Rush variety of apple gets its name for its golden color and its rush of crisp flavor. This is a dry cider, and I would pair the rich taste with Virginia smoked trout and some Gruyere cheese. I think a gift basket, including all three, would make a fantastic gift for any cider lover.

Castle Hill Cider, Celestial

Castle Hill blended some popular Virginia apples—Albemarle Pippin, Winesap and Grimes Golden with the bittersweet Dabinett variety. The Dabinett Apple is a traditional cider apple and is thought to originate in the early 1900s. It is known to be high in tannins and is bittersweet. Blending with the Pippin, Winesap and Grimes Golden result is a cider with fruit, floral, and spice aromas. This is an heirloom cider with a spice-twist. It really pops, served with a favorite Thai recipe. The cider blend warms the experience.

Blue Bee Cider, Hewe’s Crab

Roast chicken and vegetables on a white plate

This cider is a hat-tip to the Hewe’s Crab Apple and its return to the region. This apple is a vintage Virginia variety that first appeared in Northern Virginia in the 1700s. Cider history buffs know that this crab apple was often used to make hard cider and became known, across the South, as the Virginia Crab. It’s popularity also made it a victim of Prohibition. Hewe’s Crab Apple trees were sadly cut down during this era. Thankfully, this variety is making a come-back, and Blue Bee Cider has crafted a cider with Hewe’s, cumin and honey. To me, this is the perfect cider to pair with roasted chicken, vegetables, and honey-glazed carrots. (I would even use a swig to baste the chicken) It is also the cider to give anyone that has an interest in Virginia history. It is a conversation piece for cider lovers.

Potter’s Craft, Farmhouse Dry

I tasted Farmhouse Dry with a five-year aged cheddar, and the combination was fantastic. The flavor is tart, to balance with the cheese, and exceptionally dry. The finish is crisp and effervescent. The golden color is going to accent your Fall table. Host a supper party and serve some home-made sharp mac-n-cheese, pork or maybe a wild game dish with this cider.

Bold Rock Hard Cider Virginia Apple Granny Smith

The Granny Smith apple is known to be both tart and sweet, and it’s the apple that makes Bold Rock’s Virginia Apple cider crisp. Although, Bold Rock crafts this flagship cider from a blend of Virginia apples, the essence of the tart, green apple comes through in every sip of the cider. It is a sparkling, effervescent cider that I serve beside a slice of Virginia apple pie with a cinnamon-sugar crust. One could pair it with a warm apple cider donut in the Fall. A quick, but impressive, dessert is a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream, a pour of Bold Rock Virginia Apple cider and a drizzle of home-made caramel sauce. Serve this to your guests in a stemless wine glass and enjoy!

Bryant’s Cider, Unicorn Fuel

A pink-hued cider with the name Unicorn Fuel is going to grab my attention. When DW&S writer, Paula Thomasson visited Bryant’s Cider tasting room in Richmond, Virginia, she noted that it is a top seller. (story on the DW&S website) This is a Brut cider, and the pink hue comes from rose hips and hibiscus. Brut cider is made with fresh-pressed apples fermented with Champagne yeast. Brut ciders are dry and elegant. Some serve this style of cider with steak, but the addition of rose hips and hibiscus just pairs beautifully with a vanilla buttercream cake. I paired the Unicorn Fuel with a slice of fresh fruit cake from Shyndigz in Richmond. It made a great ending to brunch with friends. (You can read more about Bryant’s Cider here)

Virginia has seen a resurgence of hard cider in the past decade. Once a colonial drink, Virginia Cider can now be found in tasting rooms, bars, and restaurants across the Commonwealth. This generation of cider is both a salute to Virginia’s history and a view to the future. If you would like to learn about hard cider, visit the Virginia Cider website, www.virginiacider.org. I hope to see you at a Cider Week Virginia event in November. Cheers!

Mention Prohibition and one has a mental image of a smoky speakeasy that’s down a back alley. Or you think of a list of cocktails that have been forever labeled as “Prohibition Cocktails.” Even today, craft beverage makers are marketing their own version of historical Prohibition Parties.

“On January 16, 1920, America Went Dry”

But Prohibition was a thirteen- year period that changed America. Edward Behr’s award-winning book provides a vivid glimpse into this period in American history. I picked up a softcopy of the book at the Prohibition Museum in Savannah, Georgia. I spent a few hours browsing the museum and tasting cocktails in their replica speakeasy. The visit only whets my appetite to learn more about both Prohibition and the 1920s. I found Prohibition, Thirteen Years that Changed America in the gift shop. (You can find it on Amazon)

Edward Behr’s book is not just for history buffs. It is for anyone curious about this period. It is for those that question, “How did Prohibition happen?” and “Could such a movement happen within today’s politics?”

Before visiting the Prohibition Museum and reading Behr’s book, my vision of Prohibition included those of the speakeasy, my favorite cocktail, gangsters, and revenuers. What I learned is that American ingenuity also prevailed. Some of today’s leading businesses and products were established during Prohibition. Entrepreneurs that could not produce spirits found alternative business ventures. Housewives even became proficient in building their own basement stills. Many claim that Prohibition gave birth to today’s Nascar.

Here are a few examples of alternative business plans during Prohibition:

Did Prohibition make Walgreens Drugstore? The company started with a single drug store in 1901. In 1919 the company had 20 stores in Chicago. By the end of Prohibition, Walgreens had over 500 stores, nationwide. Walgreens had a legal prescription whiskey business. You will read about the rampant growth of the prescription alcohol business in the book, Prohibition.

From Behr’s Book: “On January 16, 1920, America Went Dry…for the next thirteen years the Eighteenth Amendment prohibited the making, selling or transportation of intoxicating liquors, heralding a new era of crime and corruption on all levels of society…..Formerly law-abiding citizens brewed moonshine, became rumrunners and frequented speakeasies.”

I especially enjoyed Behr’s description of the weeks leading up to January 16, 1920. Americans had a pre-notice to the start of Prohibition. One could store those intoxicating liquors in one’s home for personal use. Anti-Prohibitionist hoarded alcohol and transported alcohol in any means possible. I tried to imagine what I would be doing in the first two weeks of January 1920….

Prohibition is about the tumultuous days. It’s about flappers, and it’s about gangsters. You will read about Pretty Boy Floyd, Lucky Luciano, and Al Capone. You will also learn about the story behind the famous St. Valentines’ Day Massacre. You will imagine the jazz music and the flapper clothes.

But you will also realize the ties to the Commonwealth of Virginia. Not all of the stories are from Chicago or New York City. Some of the most exciting tales are from the mountains of Virginia. Revenuers chased cars laden with moonshine down mountain roads. Some Virginia moonshiners established a national footprint for their shine and even had a known brand. They transported their moonshine to big cities, including Chicago. And crime followed the trail back to Virginia.

While walking through the museum, I found a display showcasing Virginia’s Franklin County and the Bondurant brothers. America was legally dry, but Franklin County became known as the wettest county in America during Prohibition. (Actually, they claim to be the wettest in the world)

As you are scrolling through social media, you will probably land on an invitation to a Prohibition Party or maybe a recipe for Sidecar, a Rickey, or a Southside cocktail. If you are curious about Prohibition, read the book by Edward Behr. It is a vivid description of the days of Prohibition. Could a movement of this magnitude happen again? Well, some say that history repeats itself…

In future editions of Dine Wine & Stein, I will explore the books and movies about this time in Virginia history. I will even visit the new Bondurant Brothers Distillery in Chase City, Virginia. Perhaps, they have the secret family recipe?

As he traveled through Williamsburg in 1765, J.F.D. Smyth made this frank assessment, “There is no distinction here between inns, taverns, ordinaries, and public houses…they are all in one. They are all very indifferent indeed compared to the inns in England.”

Well, …excuse me.

But consider Mr. Smyth was traveling on horseback over 250 years ago through a rough and tumble pre-Virginia landscape. The Commonwealth wouldn’t be founded for another 23 years.

The mere availability of a night’s lodging was much preferred to tossing a cape on the cold ground for a restless—and potentially dangerous—night in the open.

England sought commercial success in its colonies and established court-ordered requirements that public houses be established in every community. The cost of such lodging was under the strict guardianship of the government.

Moreover, the British needed to generate revenue and manpower from their colony to fund ongoing military and high seas ventures. But it was difficult to get unpaid citizen volunteers to drop their plows and axes and show up for regular militia training.

The secret to producing fighters? Provide free ale if they agreed to appear at designated public houses for maneuvers. Soon enough well-trained soldiers were at the King’s disposal not to mention a growing cadre of experienced brewers.

Unfortunately, a few decades into the future the Crown’s trained men would become its bitter enemies as the American revolution took hold.

But as either travelers or men under arms, a warm and hospitable place to meet, drink, dine, and sleep was pivotal to the economic growth of the nascent Nation.

As a further control of travel and trade, early on only two licenses per town were permitted by the Brits for an establishment providing lodging and food for the general public. Decades later hundreds of such places dotted the colonies’ post roads.

Licenses were typically awarded to the wealthy and influential. Think yesteryear’s Conrad Hilton and friends.

Warm and Comfy

Taverns in Virginia closely mirrored the ordinaries of mother England. The proximity to the frontier, however, dictated the establishments be used for multiple purposes such as trading posts for families headed over the mountains.

The earliest dwellings were often a story and a half log cabin. The ground floor was for public use and the upper level for bedrooms. It was not uncommon for two or more strangers to be compelled to sleep in the same bed. And fresh sheets? Not often.

As the decades advanced, the quality of the “hotels” improved. Upscale taverns had a lounge area with a large fireplace, a bar, benches and chairs, and several dining tables. The very best houses had a separate parlor for ladies, a friendly landlord, good food and soft, roomy beds with fireplaces in all the rooms.

Even warming pans were slipped under the covers as guests prepared for bed.

But the further one ventured from larger towns and villages such amenities quickly faded. On the edge of civilization, the inns were little more than dirty hovels crawling with vermin. Still preferable to spending a cold and frightening night camped in the wilderness.

Since permits were required to open taverns and ordinaries, much like today, the locals did not always support such applications.

In 1751, a clergyman’s thoughts were published in the Virginia Gazette on pending requests from a certain part of town.

In part, it read, “…that ordinaries are now, in great measure, perverted from their original intention…and become the common Receptacle and Rendezvous of the very Dreggs of the People.”

Warming to his subject, the man of the cloth went on to claim activities, “…such as without intermission; namely Cards, Dice, Horse-racing, and Cock-fighting…Drunkenness, Swearing, Cursing, Perjury, Blasphemy, Cheating, Lying and Fighting are not only tolerated but permitted with impunity.”

My, my. There must have been some hopping’ joints in the colonial era. Even unusual capitalization was employed to underscore the sins of our fathers.

As one traveled further north into a bit more civilized country, the positive critiques could still be spotty. In 1789, General George Washington passed the evening at the Perkins Tavern in Connecticut because local custom discouraged traveling on Sunday.

He later recorded his pre-Trip Advisor thoughts on the tavern, “…which, by the way, is not a good one.” George rarely complained so one can only imagine what the place was like.

Nonetheless, in addition to providing comfort to weary travelers, inns and ordinaries were important to local residents. They were a place to gossip, exchange news with guests, transact business such as land sales, and livestock auctions, pick up mail and talk politics.

One could make a case that some of the most consequential discussions on the revolution and constitution occurred in taverns. John Adams claimed the City Tavern in Philadelphia was “the most genteel tavern in America.” It was a favorite watering hole of the Founding Fathers and the First Continental Congress.

In Alexandria, Gadsby’s Tavern often played host to men like John Adams, Alexandria Hamilton, George Washington, and other notables. Thomas Jefferson was honored there with a banquet in 1801, the year he became president.

George Washington’s two favorite dishes at Gadsby’s was grilled duck breast with scalloped potatoes and port wine orange glaze and “Gentleman’s Pye,” a lamb and beef red wine stew in a pastry crust.

Today, Gadsby’s Tavern is opened as both a museum and a restaurant.

Virginia’s Four Oldest Inns

The vast majority of yesterday’s lodging accommodations have been lost to the exorable march of time. But a few have survived and continued to thrive. Here are four Methuselahs of the Commonwealth’s lodging past:

Located in Hanover, the tavern dates from 1733 and was constructed in five stages. It covers 12,000 square feet over three floors. The almost 300-year-old structure has been graced by luminaries no less important than George Washington, Lord Cornwallis, the Marquis de Lafayette, and Marquis de Chastellux.

Several slaves from the tavern participated in the Great Slave Rebellion of 1800. Both Union and Confederate soldiers took refuge under its roof. It is still an operating tavern serving soups, salads, sandwiches, and full dinners.

Corporal William Michie, who served at Valley Forge, started construction of the tavern in 1784. It was a popular and well-kept lodge with the upstairs assembly room hosting dances, church services, and theatrical performances.

Homemade Bangers and Mash with Herbs and Gravy

In 1927, a local businesswoman purchased the building, which had been turned into a private residence. She had the structure carefully disassembled and moved 17 miles down the road to its current location and reopened again as a tavern. Today, it serves traditional American cuisine by period dressed servers. Specialty items include Southern fried chicken, pulled pork barbecue, mashed potatoes, cornbread, and biscuits.

It is currently owned by the Reuter family who still serves its famed peanut soup, a recipe dating to the early days of the inn’s existence. Specialties include their crab cakes, surf & turf, fried chicken and crispy half duck.

This is the oldest tavern in Virginia and the oldest inn in the United States. It opened its doors in 1728 and has a storied history, including its bar that was used as a surgeon’s operating table during the Civil war.

The Tavern is the oldest building in Abingdon and one of the oldest taverns in the state. Built-in 1799, it has operated as a tavern from its earliest days. It has housed such historical rock stars such as Henry Clay, King Louis Phillippe of France, President Andrew Jackson and Washington D.C. designer Pierre Charles L’Enfant.

The inn once served dual duty as the local post office, and the mail slot still exists in its original location. Tavern favorites are the black & bleu medallions, New York strip, New Zealand rack of lamb and scallops au Gratin.

Today, the story of the inns and taverns of the past is told in the numerous bed & breakfasts scattered across the Virginia landscape. While many of these establishments share a link to our state’s history, many others are simply wonderful places to slip away to for a day or two of stress relieve and sightseeing. To replicate the experiences of our forefather travelers—without the downside of questionable lodging—unlock the door to your next getaway here:

Barboursville Vineyards offer a diverse mix of refreshing, food-friendly and delicious wines to pair with the heat of summer. Established in 1976 by sixth-generation Italian wine scion Gianni Zonin, Barboursville Vineyards is situated on an 870-acre Antebellum property in the rolling hills of Orange County, about 20 miles northeast of Charlottesville.

In 1990, Luca Paschina came to Virginia from his native Alba, Italy, to take over vineyard management and winemaking at Barboursville. Because of the dedication and work of Paschina and his team, Barboursville is widely recognized as one of the most notable producers of fine wine in the eastern U.S.

With two tasting rooms, an inn, a fine dining restaurant, and historically-significant ruins on the property, visitors can experience the intersection of history, hospitality, and wine at Barboursville.

History-minded visitors in search of a memorable wine experience can stay at one of the historic cottages or rooms at the 1804 Inn, explore the historic ruins of Governor James Barbour’s former home, which was designed by Thomas Jefferson, and enjoy locally-sourced dish prepared by Chef Spencer Crawford paired with Barboursville wines at Palladio restaurant.

Consider these four Barboursville wines for your next summer soirée:

Allegrante Rosé 2018

This rosé is named for a thoroughbred horse acquired by Senator Henry Clay in 1835 from Governor James Barbour. This rosé is a blend of Petit Syrah (82%) and Nebbiolo (18%) grown on the same site where Allegrante once roamed. Like Summer in a glass, this rosé is bursting with juicy raspberry, watermelon water, and notes of stone fruits. Perfect as an aperitif on the deck with friends or paired with a watermelon, mint and feta salad. Stock up on this for your summer house rosé.

Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2018

A perennial favorite, this Sauvignon Blanc has everything you want in a summer sipper: expressive flavors, bright acidity, and a clean, refreshing finish. A wonderful balance of spritz lime, lemongrass, kiwi and tropical flavors. Pair with grilled shrimp or local oysters on the half shell.

Vermentino Reserve 2017

A grape native to the Sardinia and Corsica regions of Italy, Vermentino is thriving in the vineyards at Barboursville. Paschina was the first to plant the grape in Virginia a decade ago. The Barboursville 2017 Vermentino Reserve was one of the top 12 scoring wines at the 2019 Virginia Governor’s Cup competition, earning a spot in the prestigious Governor’s Case. Often used by other wineries to add aromatics and bright citrus flavors to white blends, Paschina has set the standard with this 100% Vermentino. Aromatic and refreshing with notes of white flowers, honey and stone fruits with a zingy citrus finish. Pair this with any seafood or grilled chicken.

Sangiovese Reserve 2016

A blend of 80% Sangiovese, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot, this red wine is complex and structured with notes of violets, cherry, plum, and tobacco leaf with a lingering dark berry and earthy finish. A beautiful wine made better paired with burgers or steaks on the grill.

The Three Blacksmiths Restaurant. European-style cuisine. American execution. Yesteryear ambiance.

It’s always exciting to be the first to discover something. Isaac Newton and gravity. Christopher Columbus and America. Alexander Fleming and Penicillin. James Watkins and DNA. Oh, and you and the Three Blacksmiths. Yes, the Sperryville dining establishment is gaining that level of traction. If you haven’t broken bread there yet, consider becoming an epicurean discoverer.

Three Blacksmiths Location

The village is tucked a few miles below Skyline Drive where it crosses Thornton Gap. (You can learn more about wineries on Skyline Drive by reading The Skyline Wine Trail.) Over 100 years ago, it was a sleepy little hamlet of 300 souls. Back then it supported five general stores, six mills, an apple packing plant, saloon, barbershop, pharmacy and…three blacksmiths. Not a lot has changed over the ensuing decades, including the population.

This suits the locals just fine. Growth is not embraced in Rappahannock County as it is elsewhere. The county has some 2,500 fewer residents today than in 1850. Seriously.

But what it does have is eight wineries, two breweries, two distilleries, many inns, restaurants, quaint shops and the internationally known Inn at Little Washington. All nestled in one of loveliest regions in Virginia.

The population is small, but the delights are multitudinous.

The most recent illustration of this bucolic gem is the appearance of the Three Blacksmiths restaurant at 20 Main Street, its namesake originating from the essential shops of a century ago.

Created and executed by John and Diane MacPherson, the creative duo are not interlopers from distant parts. Rather, they are an established team with a reputation for hospitality and food earned while operating the Foster Harris House bed and breakfast for 13 years in little Washington.

Their sous chef Ethan Taylor rounds out the Three Blacksmiths team.

Conceived in Europe

After selling their popular inn in 2017, the MacPhersons undertook an extended tour of Europe staying and dining in small inns to embrace their magical ambiance.

“Our building and the space we created came from a lot of inspiration and travel in Europe. We wanted something that would fit the village and also have a timeless European sense to the exterior and interior,” said John MacPherson.

The result is a classic yet straightforward two-story building with European style windows creating an understated but elegant look. “It looks good here but would also look good in a little village in Austria or France.”

The building they had purchased was a blank palette ready for a total makeover. McNeill Baker Design Associates designed the exterior and Jolly Construction Inc. completed the work.

The interior of the establishment was completed by the owners, family, and friends. The dining room was not designed with a specific concept in mind. Rather, it evolved slowly as the build-out unfolded and turned out better than the coupled had anticipated.

“It has the feel of those wonderful restaurants in the French Alps or Austria. There is a lot of wood and no modern touches of glass or chrome. It feels like it’s been here for a while. It’s warm, inviting and not crowded,” said John MacPherson.

In fact, a crowded venue will never be encountered at the Three Blacksmiths. And not because of a lack of business. The dining room has been mostly sold out since opening on June 9, 2018. But consider it seats only 16 guests, and there is just a single sitting each evening.

Diners experience a relaxed and evenly paced dinner that bears a close resemblance to enjoying a repast at a friend’s home. Service begins at 7 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays and satisfied guests often drop their napkins on the table around 10 p.m.

Local Focus

In creating a typical dinner, the MacPhersons seek local and regional ingredients to the extent possible. Given where the restaurant is located, sourcing menu items typically means a drive of fewer than five miles from Sperryville.

If you are what you eat, dining at the restaurant conveys honorary residency in Rappahannock County.

The establishment has 15 “partners” who supply much of what appears on your table. The purveyors include local wineries, breweries, a distillery, farms, and gardens.

Focusing on the last menu item, John MacPherson said, “I went to the orchard last week to get nectarines for dinners that week. The owners understood my needs and hand-selected the fruit by the condition of its ripeness. Three trays were provided according to the days it was predicted they would ripen.

“You can’t get that level of service unless you actually know the farmers and they know you,” said John MacPherson.

Each course is paired with either a Virginia, domestic or international wine. “Our distributors are set forth to find unique wines that are often difficult to locate.”

Time to Dine

The responsibilities for each meal is segmented by kitchen and dining room assignments with the owners involved when each course reaches the table.

Upon arriving, guests are seated in leather captain’s chairs or a sofa surrounded by a palette of rich brown flooring and walls with an exposed wood ceiling. The immediate impression is one of relaxation.

Diane MacPherson has responsibilities for the dining room and John MacPherson and Ethan Taylor craft dinners behind an open-viewed kitchen at the back of the room.

Once seated, you are served an introductory flute of sparkling wine, often from Barboursville Vineyards. “It’s a beautiful expression of sparkling wine and guests are always surprised it’s not champagne and that it comes from Charlottesville,” said Diane MacPherson.

Throughout the evening wines are individually paired with each course. While some of Virginia’s best wines are served, quality selections from all points worldwide will grace a typical meal.

“It’s wines we have enjoyed in the past but often very hard to find. We want to introduce people to some very interesting things they may not have tasted before. That’s the impression we’re trying to create during dinner,” said Diane MacPherson.

And there is a specific goal to the dinners. “The best way to describe our food is we try to assemble an entire menu instead of simply a number of dishes one after another. Without question, our ingredients make a flavorful difference.

“The dinner has a kind of arc to it. It feels like it’s moving in a certain direction. We accomplish that with a minimum number of ingredients and without too much fuss. Most of our dinners don’t have 20 components to them. We find something we really like and use it,” said John MacPherson.

Reaction to the restaurant has been positive and gratifying to the MacPhersons. “Working the dining room, I probably hear more because of my interactions with the guests. Recently several guests said it was the best dinner they’ve ever tasted. That’s really nice to hear,” said Diane MacPherson.

Payment for the dinners is unique. The multi-course tasting menu costs $99 per person plus a $70 alcohol charge; gratuity and tax not included. Both reservations and payment are made online.

A $50 deposit per person is levied when reservations are made. On the morning of the dinner, the remaining bill is charged to the guest’s credit card. “When guests arrive they just sit down, enjoy their meal and leave when they’re finished. There are no business transactions during dinner,” said John MacPherson.

With just a few months of experience under their aprons, the owners are enjoying the newest chapter of their hospitality dreams. “We’re having a lot of fun. It’s hard work but we come in every day, and there’s no feeling of stress. The only stress we have is getting ready for the dinners, and that’s really nice.

“It’s very satisfying to get to do this with the people you want to work with and a place you want to do it in,” said Diane MacPherson.

For information on the current menu, photo gallery, reservations and more swing by the region’s latest fine dining venue at https://www.threeblacksmiths.com/

When I host a Supper Party or event in my home, I love to add a surprise to my guests. Usually, a unique table design – the tablescape – fresh flowers or fruit on my bar or even a holiday design in my kitchen. The surprise always includes a small gift for each guest to take home. It is a tradition shared and passed through the generations of my Virginia family.

Tablescape Authority

I reached out to Brandon Schenk of Twinbrook Floral Design and Metro Flower Market to learn about tablescape trends for 2019. What is the #trending color? Is it a glamour and glitz year or will earthy, rustic designs be shown in all the magazines? What’s this years exciting tablescape tip from a popular floral design team?

Well, perhaps, Brandon provided the best tip in this year’s DW&S Supper Party Guide.

2019 Tablescape Trend

The most significant tablescape trend is the company of friends and family gathered around your table. Decorate your table as a hat-tip to cherished friendships. Maybe you enjoy visiting Virginia wineries or breweries together or hikes on a favorite mountain trail. Or, you want to remember the yearly beach trip or the shared love of vintage.

As Brandon and I talked about 2019 tablescape trends, we crafted some ideas to share…

2019 Tablescape Ideas

Decorate your table with hiking maps, handwoven garlands of fresh greenery from around your home, and even pine cones. Tuck in photos of your favorite hike with friends and give each guest a picture to take home.

Use wine bottles from your favorite Virginia wineries to decorate your tablescape. Some can hold candles while others host stems of greenery and seasonal blooms. Wine glasses, collected at tastings and events, can contain small bouquets of flowers, candles, or even succulent plants as a gift for guests. The same idea can be used with craft beer bottles, pint glasses, and other unique containers laying around your home.

Remember a beach trip with friends with a collection of shells on a background of blush or Champaign-colored fabric. Attach a quote to each shell with twine and gift those to your friends.

If you share a love of vintage, dress your table with a piece of favorite vintage fabric or even a quilt. Use flea market finds to hold plants and gift those at the end of the event.

Key 2019 Tablescape Trends

In case you are wondering, Brandon, let me know that the tablescape tends for 2019 will include elements of matte black, casual elegance, and muted metallic tones. Expect to see a whisper of blush and hints of muted metallic champaign. Decorate with natural elements and loose greenery like aromatic eucalyptus.

Brandon often includes varying types of eucalyptus in his designs. Not only are the tones on trend, but you may find a few twine wrapped sprigs of this greenery as a gift. At Twinbrook, clients are always given a special gift whether it be a botanical bath soap, dried lavender, and even eucalyptus. As you prepare your tables for family and friends this season, remember it is the thought that counts and that a simple tablescape helps create lasting memories with the people you care most about.

Share Virginia hospitality and embrace the friends and family around your table.

A new and wonderful way to add some zing to your table is to include some Virginia Cider.

Twinbrook Floral Design established in1994, can be found at 4151 Lafayette Center Dr., Suite 110, Chantilly, VA 20151. Metro Flower Market is their DIY wholesale flower division, also open to the public.

Why Become Virago Spirits?

What released the essence of Virago Spirits? What moves a lawyer, an investment banker and a sales executive to become a team of entrepreneurs? Not just entrepreneurs but founders of a craft distillery in the capital of Virginia.

One day the Haneberg family decided to distill spirits in Richmond, VA. Brothers Brad, Barry and Barton Heneberg—and Brad’s wife Vicki—made the group decided to become Virago Spirits.

In 2018, restaurants across the region began showcasing the first Virago Spirit, Four Port Rum. Cocktail Masters began crafting signature cocktails with Virago as the base. Rum enthusiasts started enjoying an Old Fashioned, a Jungle Bird or a Dark & Stormy. But do the “Brand Fans” grasp the road traveled by the Haneberg family?

What sparked the passion? What’s the story behind the road traveled to launch Virago Spirits?

The Haneberg family started from scratch. They did not buy an established distillery. As a matter of fact, they studied the market, multiple business plans and then decided to launch a distillery in Virginia.

Browse the brand’s social media feeds and you are provided a transparent timeline to the launch of the new business. From designing the brand image to building the distillery to boxing bottles by hand, this launch is a testament to the entrepreneur’s passion.

DW&S is the champion of Virginia entrepreneurs in the craft beverage and food market. The Virago story captured our attention, and we reached out to the Haneberg family. We traveled to Richmond to tour the distillery and taste the Four- Port Rum.

I want to introduce you to Virago Spirits. Let’s take a look Behind the Taste.

Kim: When did the discussion start? Were you sitting around the family dining table and decide to become craft beverage entrepreneurs? Was there a “Spark-Day”?

Virago: There wasn’t a single “spark-day” or “Eureka” moment. We had long dreamt of doing something together as a family, but our collective family/career/financial situations never quite aligned… that is, until 2013, when our life paths began to converge. It was then that we seriously considered translating the dream of a family business into a practical reality. The question was: what should that business be? While we each come from different professional backgrounds, we shared one interest in common: a passion for cocktails and the spirits that make them. Moreover, a distillery appealed directly to each of our Virago spirits – the spirit in taking a risk and doing something unexpected. And, so, a distillery it was.

Kim: I have to ask, what is behind the name Virago? What is the significance?

Virago: Virago is a Latin term that references women of extraordinary, heroic character: women who demonstrate the strength, courage, determination, and vision to pursue the impossible. And, it is that spirit of doing more than expected and pursuing the impossible that inspires us.

Kim: In the past five years, the Scotts Addition and Diamond region of Richmond has experienced a re-birth. The area has become a mecca for craft beverage lovers. Tell us about your decision to bring Virago to the region.

Virago: Over the past several years, Scott’s Addition and the Diamond district have indeed developed into an incubator of sorts for craft beverage and food-related businesses. At this point, there are some 12 breweries, 2 cideries, a meadery and 4 distilleries (including ourselves) – all within a few square miles of one another. We recognized rather early in our development process the importance of not only locating ourselves near similar businesses for collaboration possibilities but of being an active and contributing member of what we consider to be an up-and-coming craft beverage scene. For, as dense in talent and offerings as Richmond (and Central Virginia, more broadly) is, the quality of its producers is only beginning to be recognized on the national stage. We believe that that is going to change; and, we want to be part of that change. (That Virginia’s impressive agricultural industry, dense with orchards and vineyards, makes the state ideal for brandy production is an added bonus!)

Also in this edition, DW&S writer Paula Thomasson tells us about spending a day exploring Scotts Addition in Richmond, Virginia.

Virago: Our production philosophy blends a deep respect for time-honored, traditional production techniques with New World creativity, ingenuity, and innovation. We distill our spirits on a vintage, direct-fire, 2,500-liter Charentais-style alembic still – previously used by a 150-year-old Cognac producer in France and one of only a handful of such stills operating in the United States. The process is intentionally laborious and requires significant patience, skill, and attention-to-detail. The results, however, are spirits and liqueurs of uncompromising quality, balance, and depth of flavor.

Direct-fire adds layers of depth and complexity of flavor – much as with grilled food. Distilling “Low and Slow” – where a single distillation can take upward of 12-14 hours and a complete distillation cycle requires upwards of 48 hours – maximizes our ability to separate out the crude portions of the distillate and to concentrate flavor. Glycol-chilled water cooling allows for precise control over the temperature of the final distillate, providing for a smoother, more aromatic product.

Kim: What’s behind the name Four-Port Rum?

Virago: We knew, from early on, that we wanted our first product to be a truly distinctive aged rum. The challenge was that it would take years of aging before our own distilled rums would be ready for the market; and, we did not want to rush that process. Blending, however, provided the opportunity for us to craft a truly unique product, allowing us to mix rum styles and profiles that are not typically incorporated together. Through a long process of trial and error, we refined our product into Four-Port Rum – so named in honor of the four ‘ports’ from which hour blend is sourced: Barbados, Jamaica, Nicaragua, and Panama.

Kim: The Four- Port Rum is a blended rum. You created, tasted and tested a multitude of blends before deciding on the current recipe. Tell us about the process.

Virago: The first step was to have a vision of the product we were seeking to create. We knew that we did not want to simply recreate or mimic an existing Caribbean-style of rum, as there are wonderful examples of that already on the market. If we were going to offer a product, we wanted it to have a distinct personality. We wanted a product that defied traditional ‘rum’ definitions and expectations, a product that could work both as a sipper and hold its own in a cocktail, and – critically – a product that would appeal both to traditional rum imbibers as well as traditionally-rum-shy whiskey drinkers. A tall order, indeed! With that in mind, we worked together with a Master Blender to select and craft the ideal blend of rums from across the Caribbean. The result, after many, many iterations, is Virago Four-Port Rum.

Kim: DW&S readers have enjoyed trying and collection Virago’s cocktail recipes. For the latest recipe, see this edition’s, The DW&S Supper Party Guide. Virginia restaurants and bars are not only showcasing Virago signature Four- Port Rum cocktails, but you are custom-creating distilled spirits for industry partners. Virago is distilling small-batch spirits and creating signature products. Tell us about your small-batch spirits. Can you share any of your creations or plans? What can we expect to see in 2019?

Virago: In addition to our flagship offerings, such as Four-Port Rum and our upcoming gin, we will offer an ever-evolving line-up of small-batch spirits and liquors. These offerings will fill more niche product categories and, as such, may not have the same mass appeal of ‘rum’ or ‘bourbon’. But, they are products about which we are passionate and which command dedicated, if more circumscribed, consumer followings – French absinthes and Italian Amari, fruit Eau-de-vies, herbal and fruit liqueurs, and vermouth, among other products. In addition, we are developing a series of cask-finished expressions of Four-Port Rum – the first of which, a ruby Port cask finished variant, will be available mid-November. As we slide into 2019, consumers can expect a new product to be released every quarter or so, with an absinthe, an amaro, and an apple brandy among the first small-batch products to be released. All of our small-batch products will be available for sale through our on-site distillery store. Some may be available through Virginia ABC, as well.

The Heart of the Brand

Kim: Congratulations on the next phase of Virago, the opening of your fifty-seat tasting room. I believe that the tasting room is the heart of any craft beverage. It provides the experience of the brand. Tell us about your vision of the experience in your tasting room.

Virago: We could not be more excited about the opening of our tasting room! We do, of course, offer tours and tastings of our products, as one may expect; but, we intend our tasting room to offer a more immersive experience than a simple tour-and-taste. It is a representation of who and what we are, after all. Everything – from the sofas, chairs, and tables; to the lighting, the music, the imagery in the murals, and the cocktails themselves – is designed to encourage customers to let go of their everyday worries and stresses, if only for a brief hour. This creates an environment in which customers can truly relax and immerse themselves in their experience – whether that be a tour of the facility, learning about the nuances of spirit and liqueur production, sampling product from an ever-evolving cocktail list, or simply reading a book in one of our comfy chairs. We want our customers to not have simply tried us, but to have fallen in love with our products and our brand. All of that starts with the tasting room experience.

……..

Well, with a spark of passion, a lawyer, an investment banker, a sales executive, and a family can launch a new Virginia distilled spirit. We have certainly enjoyed making and tasting your custom cocktails. Now, I need to decide which antique glass to use to make a Virago Old Fashioned.

Historic Hometown Haunted Hospitality Never Tasted So Good at Bridgewater’s Cracked Pillar Pub

Glasses break. Doors slam shut. Footsteps echo down the upstairs hall. All are a part of a day’s work at Bridgewater’s haunted Cracked Pillar Pub.

When Patti, Tim, and Kristin Landes first saw the historic Barbee House located on Bridgewater, Virginia’s North MainStreet, they knew this was the place for them. “We had been looking for a place to bring a pub to the area, it had a great location, and more importantly….the place picked us as much as we picked it,” said Patti. “From the moment we walked thru the front door, we could see past the walls that needed to be knocked down and the changes that had to be made… we knew that this was the place.”

A Door Slams

“One of the first encounters with the spirit happened right after we purchased the property in late in 2015,” said Patty. “We weren’t on site but had a contractor working up on the roof. When we returned he quickly scampered down the ladder and asked us if we had been in the house. I said no we weren’t here. He said, ‘well somebody is in there because doors are slamming and there are footsteps and all kinds of noise in there.’ To put this into perspective, the contractor, who was quite shaken, was an MMA wrestler and a two times state wrestling champion from a local high school. MMA wrestlers don’t get scared easily..and this guy was spooked.”

Patti went on to talk about a tour of the property she was giving to one of the people who helped her get the business going. “We toured downstairs with no incidents. Then when we went upstairs in the far back corner which is now dry storage, my friend suddenly out of the blue said well perhaps that is our ghost or our spirit. My friend commented, ‘she is happy now.’ ”

“That particular area seems to be a hot spot. One of my servers insists that she heard a baby crying in that room and many of the employees don’t like to go upstairs by themselves. Nothing bad has happened up there it’s just an odd feeling. “

The Cracked Pillar was built between

1818 and 1838; the exact date is unknown as the records were destroyed by fire during the Civil War. It is listed in the National Register of Historic Places as The Barbee House. Initially, The Barbee House was named after Civil War Colonel and State Senator Gabriel Barbee, and today is one of the oldest structures at the North end of Bridgewater. It in its early history, The Barbee House was an inn and tavern, and reportedly hosted Henry Clay and Andrew Jackson. After the Civil War, it became a girl’s boarding and finishing school – the room numbers are still on the upstairs doors. For the past 100 years, the property has been a private residence with the same family.

4,544 Warhammer Rueben Sandwiches

Today, The Cracked Pillar offers a wide variety of simply good pub food. Since September of 2017, they have served more than 4,544 Warhammer Rueben sandwiches followed closely by their Classic Bacon Cheeseburgers. The Cracked Pillar’s menu offers the perfect blend of comfort pub food including fried pickles appetizers, mushy peas, salads, and some beautiful desserts. Of course, the Cracked Pillar pairs their menu with some of the most popular Virginia Wines from Prince Michel, Veritas, and Bluestone Vineyards as well as a whole bevy of rotating Virginia Craft Brews.