In all cases when using this Handbook as a guide, check first
with your unit commander to see what your group actually uses. Because of local
conditions, the inclination of the ship’s captain or problems of supply, naval
uniforms, accoutrements, and weapons can present a variety of combinations in
the photographic record. Historically, the Marine Corps (USMC and CSMC) adhered
to the regulations much more closely than did the Navies; while there is never
an excuse for a sloppy or inaccurate portrayal as a sailor, this is doubly so
for Marines. Any variation needs to be researched and attested to be valid.

At a minimum, enlisted sailors need the following items to
appear in camp: flat hat, frock (shirt), neckerchief, trousers, and shoes.(1)
Beyond this minimum outfit you should concentrate on a weapons kit that allows
you to take the field with the unit. These articles will unfortunately be your
most expensive. The single-most costly item will be the rifle/musket, which is a
minimum of $400 plus a variety of related articles and leather goods: bayonet
scabbard and frog, (2) pistol frog, cartridge box and cap
pouch for either weapon, and a belt from which to hang all this stuff.
Additional equipment for camp life includes tent, blanket(s), rain poncho,
ground cloth, and mess kit; when you are reenacting with the group, there is no
need to bring cooking utensils but you'll need them if you appear at an event
alone. Your final purchases would include the summer whites version of clothing
(hat cover, trousers, and frock) as well as canvas sea bag, camp stool, lantern
and demonstration articles such as boarding pike and axe. If you have questions
concerning your kit -- ask! The rest of the unit has been through this before
and their experience will be a big help.

In the following tables, optional items are italicized;
equipment that should be purchased along with other articles is preceded by a
"+" to show that it is associated with the item directly above it.
Where alternative pieces of clothing or equipment are an option, the second of
the two is preceded by "-or-". No preference is intended by the
order in which sutler names appear. For opinions of various sutleries based upon
past dealings, contact your fellow reenactors in the unit. Unlike Army
reenacting, you will find that it is not possible to get everything you need at
a single sutlery. The availability of specific items at specific sutleries
was accurate as of end May 2005. The tables are arranged as follows:

[1]The 1852 uniform regulations specify
“shoes” for enlisted men—which is not specific at all. The ubiquitous
Jefferson
“bootee” is a safe purchase, but almost any black dress shoe will work. The
shoe must be plain, (i.e., no tooling or styling of the leather), must be
lace-up, and must be black. If you opt for boots rather than shoes, no
pointy-toed, high-heeled "cowboy" boots , straps or buckles, (e.g., no
"motorcycle" boots). Look at period photographs and find a similar
modern style.[2]The Navy used the word “frog”
for both a pistol holster and for the leather piece that attached a
cutlass/sword/bayonet scabbard to the belt. It is sometime misspelled
“throg” in some sutler’s catalogues. Understand that in many cases you
will need the scabbard as well as the frog (the
Springfield
bayonet being one exception).

[4]A bound patent leather brim and chin strap. 1½ inch black, gross grain silk
ribbon at the band, 3 each, vertical strands at the compass points and a
3-strand, black, quatrefoil encircled by a single strand at the crown, bearing
USMC buttons.[5]
Double-breasted, 16 button front, 2 buttons at the rear waist and 2 at the rear
pocket, bottom. It is a deep Navy Blue and fully lined with black cotton and
fully hemmed. There are three small buttons on each functional sleeve.[6]
Embroidered rank insignia are sewn onto the Russian knots (see rank charts)[7]
With troops - Sky Blue Kersey, with a 3/16 inch red welt down each outer seam.Staff service - dark Navy Blue with no other adornments.[8]
Both trouser styles are “afoot” pattern with dog ear pockets.[9]
Long enough to be wrapped around the waist twice and is tied on the left side.

[10]
Navy 1 ½ inch branch band with a 3 strand quatrefoil of black silk, encircled
by a single strand. No vertical strands exist at the compass points or
horizontal strands at the band. A bound, patent leather brim and chin strap
bearing USMC or Roman block “M” buttons. Lined in black polished cotton.[11]
One photo shows the traditional embroidered USMC insignia; another shows a
wreath with “M” in the middle; othersshow
nothing![12]
Type II is double-breasted, 14 button front with dark Navy collar & cuffs.
It is in the Army pattern, bearing Austrian knots on the sleeves, consisting of
gold-colored silk, underlain in dark navy or red. Rank devices are worn on the
collar. Type III as above, with upper & lower collar, cuffs & lapels
piped in black. It may or may not have the Austrian knots on the sleeves.
Russian knots and rank devices are the same as the Type II coat.

[13]
Russian knots do not indicate rank in the CSMC; that is done on the collars and
cuffs (see rank charts).[14]
Also available from Two Flags Sutlery, 2340 Spring Dr., Escalon, Ca. 95320,
(209) 838-2072 (website is www.twoflagssutlery.com
but no online ordering)[15]Type II, with a dark navy 1¼” stripe on the outer seam, and dog ear
pockets.[16]Long enough to be wrapped around
the waist twice and is tied on the left side.

[17]
If absolutely needed, a plain flat black leather belt may be used with trousers.
Belt loops will have to be added to the pants.[18]
Note that this is not a modern pea coat—the style is very different.[19]Available at Barre Army Navy Store,
955 North Main Street
,
Barre
,
VT
05641
, 1-800-448-7965, (http://www.vtarmynavy.com/navy-wool-bridge-coats.htm).
Do not buy a modern “pea coat” as the style is totally incorrect.[20]Available through http://navyandmarine.org/ItemsForSale/index.htm.

[23]
Both trouser styles are “afoot” pattern with dog ear pockets.[24] The greatcoat is an infantry body with a 7 large
button front and a Cavalry length cape with 5 buttons. It is ¾ lined with
canvas.

[25]
CSMC Kepi is the same design as USMC, dark Navy blue; bound, patent leather brim
with Marine cap device and USMC side buttons.[26]
The blue trouser welt is red and 3/16” in width for NCOs. The pockets are the
“dog ear” type.[27]
Some white trousers had a black welted outseam. The Navy white cotton falling
front trousers used for USN or CSN impressions are perfectly acceptable and much
less costly.[28]
The frock coat has black piping at both the upper and lower collar, cuffs and
the centerline of the lapel. Option - pipe along the hem of the skirt. All CSMC
coats were fully lined and hemmed. The buttons must be Roman block “M” type.
Medium or large buttons (7) at the front, medium or large (2) at the rear and
waist; two small at each cuff. The material may be wool or Satinette.[29]
Also available from Two Flags Sutlery, 2340 Spring Dr., Escalon, Ca. 95320,
(209) 838-2072 (website is www.twoflagssutlery.com, but no online ordering)[30] Richmond Depot, Type III shell jacket, fully lined, 9
button front, with Roman block “M” or “A” buttons.

Weapons (Swords, Cutlasses, Pistols, Rifled
Muskets) and Associated Leathers
Check with your unit commander to verify which types of firearms are acceptable.
Also refer to "Buying a Gun" in the reference section of this
Handbook. Note that many of the General Sutleries also offer weapons for sale.

A note on period nomenclature: The Navy used the word "frog" for
both a pistol holster and for the leather piece that attached a
cutlass/sword/bayonet scabbard to the belt. It is sometime misspelled "throg"
in some sutler’s catalogues. Understand that in many cases you will need the
scabbard as well as the frog (the Springfield bayonet being one exception).

[34]
CSA Selma Depot style recommended. Regimental Quartermaster and Legendary Arms
offer a “Navy belt set” With belt, buckle, (pistol) cartridge box, and
frog/holster.[35]
The type of cartridge box depends on the kind of weapon selected. 1853
Enfield
is used here as an example.[36] Local blacksmith or through http://navyandmarine.org/ItemsForSale/index.htm

[40]
Whitworth Exchange Pouch is recommended (a.k.a. British expense pouch). The
Enfield
primer pouch is a good alternative. Both are black leather.[41] The type of cartridge box depends on the kind of
weapon selected. 1853
Enfield
is used here as an example.

OK! You have made the big decision as to what you want to portray. Great, the first big
step. If you are new to re-enacting your next step should be to look up your section in
the lists of equipment. We offer this list on the website or in printed form. You will get
by the "sticker shock" phase quickly. Check your unit's preferences and see what
articles are mandatory. If you are converting from another service, check over your gear
and see if any is re-usable or convertible.

You have made your choices and you're ready to 'phone, fax or e-mail a sutler or supplier
of the chosen items. "Sutler" is the 19th century equivalent of a retailer
(vendor, supplier). We have expended a great deal of effort listing sutlers who are known
to provide quality products on a timely basis. "Time to deliver" seems to stick
in everyone's craw. Prices tend to vary considerably, often for the same article from
different sutlers. A word to the wise: contact your unit commander or get the help of a
veteran member of your outfit. People are willing to help you navigate the rocks and
shoals of getting your kit together. No more profound bit of advice can be given to you.

I'll assume that you are now armed with the veteran's advice in mind and are ready to
plunk your money down. Wait a minute! There is something else you should give a thought
to. Keeping records, a paper trail is important here. Keep records of all transactions you
make: phone bills, credit care slips, faxes, etc. This is traceability. Make copies of
everything and keep it until the transaction is completed to your satisfaction.

You bear the responsibility of knowing the type, size, color, etc. for what you need. You
must make allowance for delivery times. Calling the day before a big event and expecting
delivery does not cut it. When you call the sutler and ask for a realistic delivery time,
record that information and who gave it to you. Something you should remember, sutlers are
resellers and rarely manufacture what they sell. You might even be better off going to a
concern that does its own manufacturing. Plan ahead. When you pay by credit card, avoid
putting your credit card number on the Internet. If the sutler has a secured site then you
are OK. Credit cards and bank checks are by far the preferred method of payment. Personal
checks tend to slow things down as most sutlers won't ship until the check clears at their
end.

Let us see, you have made your choices, paid for them and now the "Big Wait."
This is an indeterminate period of from a few days (do not hold your breath) to several
months. I have heard of delivery times of as little as next day to as much as 11 months
later! This is why it behooves you to have a clear understanding and commitment on
shipping time. Do not be afraid to call and shop around for price and time. Price does not
necessarily guarantee quality -- another reason to get a veteran's advice.

Assume for the moment you have selected, ordered, paid and received your goods. They are
what you asked for, they fit and they are in good condition. Super! You have run the
gantlet successfully.

On the other hand there are occasions where the article is not what you ordered, doesn't
fit, arrives in bad condition or just plain does not arrive. What to do? The answer to
this question starts with a call to the sutler. If the incorrect, ill-fitting or broken
article came, get instructions on how to ship it back. Make sure that you ordered the
correct article. This represents yet another reason to retain copies of the original
orders. If the article doesn't arrive in the time specified by the sutler then call him
and find out what the problem is. It could be something as simple as he is awaiting a
supply. Wouldn't it be grand if they would keep you updated concerning problems like that?
If you start receiving a series of excuses and foot shuffling, do not lose your composure.
Screaming into the telephone will not accomplish much. If they cannot supply the article,
check if there is an equivalent. You could ask for your money back or call your credit
card company and ask what could be done to cancel the sale. There are a number of rational
things that can be done. When all fails you may have to resort to some legal means for
recovery.

If you ordered through the mails, talk to your local postmaster. This is a very powerful
tool. Check with your state consumer protection agency. As a last resort you may want to
consider having a lawyer write a "dunning" letter.

I hate to say this but there are unscrupulous sutlers out there. In the equipment list
provided, we have tried to weed out the troublesome ones. Check the sutlers listing at the
end of the matrix. Special notes and numbers will give you a clue as to the individual
sutlers. The opinions expressed are solely those of fellow reenactors who have dealt with
a variety of sutleries. If a sutlery does not appear in the listing, it may mean we simply
are unaware of their existence as a supplier of naval equipment - not that we recommend
against using them. Talk to your pards - they can best tell you who to deal with and who
to avoid.

If you run into an extreme problem with a sutler let the NMLHA board know. Likewise, let
them know if a sutler goes the extra distance.

It is sincerely hoped that you will not have any severe problems. Shop wisely, check
carefully, and keep a paper trail.