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Lincoln SAE 300

10-04-2013, 12:47 PM

I had this SAE300 given to me because the engine is froze.
So what I would like to know is:
Does this machine weld like the SA-200s?
Is there a interest in these machines like the SA-200s?
The rest of the machine is in good condition, straight, no rust, fairly clean.
Is it worth rebuilding the engine?
Should I just get 10 cents a pound scrap?
It has a 6 cyl. Continental engine.
It's 7' long, I could put a complete SA-200 inside the frame work.
I pulled the intake/exhaust manifold off and mud ran out of the exhaust ports and the intake ports had rust also but they where clean.
I'll see what you guys say before I pull the head.
Good Luck,
Bob

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It had a rain cap on the spark arrester, but the spark arrester was on upside down.
So the rain collected in the lip of the spark arrester and rusted out the arrester a filled the engine with water.
Before I pulled the manifold, I put a vacuum on the exhaust pipe stub and blew air pressure in the spark plug holes, when I did #5 cyl. it blew all (most) the rust flakes out of the manifold. Before that it was packed tight with rust chunks.
If I use the serial number chart from Stumpf's website, I come up with a 1976 model.
It has a red face with a round barrel, but I don't know if that means anything like it does with the SA-200s.
Good Luck,
Bob

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Remove the head, soak the rags in diesel, put em on top the pistons and in the cylinders. Light em up. The cyclinders will get hot, the rings will lubricate, and the engine will turn over. Trick hasn't let me down yet.

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Older contientals are very cheap to rebuild. I would pull the head and inspect the cylinders if there is heavy rust, yank the engine. I do something similiar to cruisers idea but a little different. I fill each cylinder with motor oil and take a propane torch to the oil, oil heats up and works into the rings, free the engine over pull the pistons hone and re ring. Continentals can take a large amount of ring gap. After that kind of age you should be inspecting the bearings anyhow. Should be able to do a rebuild on that engine for 500-700.
Kevin

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I have no real use for it, just a toy. I like to make them run again.
I got it free, so I can afford to put some money in it to make it run.
Then if they run good, new hoses, belt, plugs, wires, points, condenser, cap and rotor.
Then maybe some paint.
Good Luck,
Bob

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I set it on fire, it burned for over an hour.
The I sprayed PB blaster penetrating oil until the pistons were covered 1/4'' deep.
I then let it sit for about 2 weeks.
Nothing, I put a long handle wrench on it with my foot (275 lbs) and I just tighten the bolt for the pulley.

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This is my second time to write this post. I must have worded the other post incorrectly as the web master would not post it?

I poured diesel in the cylinders and stuff red rags down the cylinders.
I then set it on fire all the while trying to break it loose with 2 ft' long wrench.
All I did was tighten the pulley bolt. I burned for over an hour.
So I covered the pistons with PB Blaster penetrating oil.
2 weeks later still nothing. In fact the oil is still on top of the pistons.
The crankshaft is in a position so the 1 and 6 cylinders are down a about 2''.
Should I try an air hammer on piece of shaft the same size as the piston?
Again with the big wrench at the same time?
Thanks again,
Good Luck,
Bob

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Before you go to the heavy demolition procedures, try this one other thing. My father-in-law was a master at getting rusted things loose. His formula was to use a good penetrating oil--one of the "Blasters" or "Kroils" will do and then combine that with a rather gentle tapping of the subject parts. Nothing severe, but enough to get them to vibrate. You apply the "elixir" and tap the top of each piston for a little while. You then go away for the rest of the day and come back the next day and "tap, tap, tap." Go away, come back and some more tap, tap, tap. Causing the parts to vibrate allows the "elixir" to work its way into the joints between the parts.

Given enough patience and enough of the magic juice, you should be able to get parts to move again.

Now this assumes that the reason the engine is stuck is due to corrosion and not due to some sort of thermal melt-down caused by running the engine out of oil or coolant. If it's seized because of that sort of stuff, it probably can't be made to turn.

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As someone who has rebuilt many engines, i can assure you that the rings even if you free the pistons are stuck completely to the pistons and will ruin this engine almost instantly if you manage to free it and fire it up. Have you tried the motor oil trick, with the propane torch? This has worked for me in the past. If the walls of the cylinder are completely rusted, use a flex hone first to knock off the rust then beat them out, also what model of contiental is this, most all of the older ones were wet sleeved engines.
Kevin

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As someone who has rebuilt many engines, i can assure you that the rings even if you free the pistons are stuck completely to the pistons and will ruin this engine almost instantly if you manage to free it and fire it up. Have you tried the motor oil trick, with the propane torch? This has worked for me in the past. If the walls of the cylinder are completely rusted, use a flex hone first to knock off the rust then beat them out, also what model of contiental is this, most all of the older ones were wet sleeved engines.
Kevin

I think it's a 227. It has the late model oil filler cap. Half of the head bolts broke off in the block.
Ok so I heat the motor oil with a torch. Like the flame right on the oil. Will the oil flash and burn.
I got a quote of 2800 to over haul it.
I think it is just like a SA-200 except smaller bore and 2 more pistons. If it had the same size bore as a 200 the CID would 244.
Thank you,
Good Luck,
Bob