Not
far to the north of the busy little town of Acle
sits this locked, isolated church riding a
tree-crowded mound among the fields. The nearest
road is a fair distance away, but there is a
track from it which is just about driveable.
There are no houses nearby, but the village of
Upton is across the fields, and there is a good
view of Upton
church about half a mile off.

The church
was essentially rebuilt in the 19th Century, and
not much old survives, although you can see that
at heart this was a Norman church. The little
north aisle, which in Ladbroke's drawing is taken
under the single span of a thatched nave roof,
was rebuilt on the same plan, but given an
awkward roof of its own which veers up suddenly
and is supported inside by a cast iron column - I
hesitate to call it an arcade. There is a
restrained 15th century crenellation to the top
of the tower, and pretty little lancets and Y
tracery windows. Pevsner claims that the south
doorway is original. I couldn't see that it could
be, as it is so neatly cut. It is all very
understated.

The
church is currently open on a Friday, and
enthusiastically stewarded. It seemed very
popular with visitors and dog walkers on the day
we called, which was pleasing. Inside, all is
renewed, there's nothing medieval at all, and you
get a real feel for what it must have been like
to attend divine service in this church a century
or so ago. All that has been added since is
essentially clutter, and this is a very crowded
interior where you find yourself edging around
tables and ladders.

The
churchyard is rather over-maintained, as if it were some
enthusiast's hobby, and seemed quite out of keeping with
the haunting setting. Even the 19th Century headstones
have been relettered. It is all a bit domestic and
sanitised. It seemed to me that, having seen the
wonderful view of this church from a distance, apparently
ancient and brooding among its pines, I had probably seen
the best of it.