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If the fuel guage worked prior to changing the bulbs the ground should be ok. The only thing disturbed was the cluster assembly when you removed it. Recheck the connections at the back of the cluster again for tight connections and making sure there are no bent pins. You can also try tapping on the cluster near the fuel guage area to see if that helps

Firstly - DO NOT run engine, when guage reads hot, as this will cause costly damage to head gasket & alloy engine head.

The fact that guage takes 1min to read HOT, would confirm the guage IS working properly.

So, other components which are likely to cause hot readings (in this order) are:

- lack of coolant (or leakage somewhere): is there sufficient green coolant at the correct level? Top up mixture to correct level. Repair any leaks.

- collapsed radiator hose: when engine is cold, start engine, then quickly watch both upper & lower radiator hoses to see if either begins to flex inwards (collapse). Replace if either hose is collapsed.

- bad/incorrect thermostat rating : when replacing thermostats, you must ensure it is of the SAME temp rating (they all differ).

- Incorrect Temp sensor rating: the ratings of this sensor must be within manufacturer's spec's.

- bad waterpump: the engine relies on the waterpump to distribute the coolant throughout the entire system. If waterpump is faulty, coolant will not flow quick enough, causing overheating.

If you still believe all of the above components are OK, then have your cooling system "pressure tested". This test should be done, before looking further at other electrical components.

This is a pretty common phenomenon. Air is moving through the radiator when the car is in motion, but not when it stops (unless the fan is on). Make sure the fan is working on the car, and don't let the gauge go much over half-way.