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Topic: GE bottom freezer (Read 5200 times)

I know on some of those ge fridges there are some other modifications that need to be done as well. Dont have the tech sheet with me, but i have had to modify some things before. Its not always as simple as plugging in the board. Make sure you check the model number against those listed on tech sheet

Yea i think he was talking about the instruction sheet with the serial numbers to correct if it apples to your serial number.I know from my parts look up that the original board was part # WR55x10526 and change to WR55x10942 so you could have to do something to new board if it has one of those serial # on the Sheet.May want to look at that.

Yea i read somewhere if you leave J2 off when you install new board that would off coarse keep all fans off but suppose to fire up compressor at least.Never tried it though.I don't know what to tell you.Bottom mount is a bitch to get to that evap. fan motor if it is bad.Sometimes you can have the you wish you never got involve with.

I google the eval.Fan motor for your model which is # WR60x10196 and click on appliance parts pro.And someone said on there forum said that the WR60x10185 had a little longer shaft and that wire colors were the same but wattage was a little different.But he remove shaft from bad motor and install it in the WR60x10185 which is about $40 dollars.I was wondering if you left the longer shaft in the WR60x10185 would it mount and has anyone tried it.The guy said the small increase in wattage would not hurt.Would save a lot of money if you could use it.HAS ANYONE TRIED THIS WITH THE LITTLE LONGER SHAFT?

THANKS! I'm thinking its the confessor fan because when I turn it on I here a quick buzz and click coming from subside the fridge but one of those is about $200 so at $49 its definitely worth a shot especially seeing as I'm completely out of options. Thanks a lot dab I appreciate the help Mann, your the only one that responded I guess the other guys are stumped too.

With these DC motors, there is no testing it's resistance. If it has voltage, and its not moving, it's bad. That being said, I have had a few evap fan motors short and take out the board. Can't recall a cond fan doing the same, but i suppose its possible. If the motor has any discoloration at all (brownish), replace it. Check voltage coming out of the board to run the fans on J2. GE uses Pulse Width Modulation to run its fans, so you need more than just 12VDC at the motor.

Just my opinion, I'd never pull the shaft of one motor and put it in another. Even if the motor is $200, its still cheaper than a $2,000 refrigerator.

Did your display work with the old board? There was a service bulletin out a while ago on the GE 25cu ft top mount. Basically if you have voltage going to the display/control board, but the main board doesn't receive voltage back, it goes into a 'limp mode' meaning that it could run very erratically. This bulletin doesnt apply to the bottom mount, but its worth knowing. The mini manual on this model doesn't list a specific voltage to run the control board. Check for any DC voltage between all three pins of J4, with J4 unplugged. Plug it in, check for the same voltage at the control board.

While you're at the main board, checking all the thermistors is really quick and simple. Their early thermistors had a lot of issues.

With these DC motors, there is no testing it's resistance. If it has voltage, and its not moving, it's bad. That being said, I have had a few evap fan motors short and take out the board. Can't recall a cond fan doing the same, but i suppose its possible. If the motor has any discoloration at all (brownish), replace it. Check voltage coming out of the board to run the fans on J2. GE uses Pulse Width Modulation to run its fans, so you need more than just 12VDC at the motor.

Just my opinion, I'd never pull the shaft of one motor and put it in another. Even if the motor is $200, its still cheaper than a $2,000 refrigerator.

Did your display work with the old board? There was a service bulletin out a while ago on the GE 25cu ft top mount. Basically if you have voltage going to the display/control board, but the main board doesn't receive voltage back, it goes into a 'limp mode' meaning that it could run very erratically. This bulletin doesnt apply to the bottom mount, but its worth knowing. The mini manual on this model doesn't list a specific voltage to run the control board. Check for any DC voltage between all three pins of J4, with J4 unplugged. Plug it in, check for the same voltage at the control board.

While you're at the main board, checking all the thermistors is really quick and simple. Their early thermistors had a lot of issues.

Let me know what you find! Good luck!

When I checked for voltage to the condenser fan it was jumping between .50 and .24 but the tech shred says there 12 vdc. Can you check for continuity from the back of the fridge? And the shaft on the $49 dollar motor looks like the same length as the $200 motor.