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Hi,
I obviously don't work on cars..I have an 83 240D, which i love.
A couple days ago, i noticed, my windows Don't go up and down, And my turn signal doesn't work
I'm hoping it's a fuse. I opened the fuse box and saw one missing, maybe 3, not sure. I saw red, yellow and blue fuses. How do I know Which fuse to replace, and What to buy??
Thanks
LJ

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Hi,
Thanks for replying...in terms of the fuses, can I buy Ceramic fuses at the same place as Plastic fuses or are they harder to find?
and "contacts inside of the window switch get burned or the Switch gets Full of crud.", is this something I can check relatively easy?
Thanks much,
LJ

The fuses that you need can be found at any Mercedes Benz steelership depending where you live you might even have a local supplier there that also sells them.
In regards to your window switches have a look at this.....http://benzguy.piczo.com/windowswitc...linkvar=000044

Hi,
Thanks for replying...in terms of the fuses, can I buy Ceramic fuses at the same place as Plastic fuses or are they harder to find?
and "contacts inside of the window switch get burned or the Switch gets Full of crud.", is this something I can check relatively easy?
Thanks much,
LJ

The Fuses used in your Mercedes are that same type of Fuses used in a lot of the older Euro made cars. The regular Auto Part Stores sell them.
You would just have to go to the Store and look in the section where the Head Lights and Light Bulbs are and look in the Packages to see if they are Ceramic (I do not think they will be labled Ceramic).
The Plastic Fuses bodies are smooth and shiny, the ceramic ones are not shiny.

On my 84 300D; to get at the Window Switches requires you to pull out and un-plug the Ash Tray and remove 2 screews that hold the Metal Ash Try Frame down.

After that you have to push that whole Wood Grained Pannel with all of the switches to the rear about 1-1-1/2 inch (there is a Plastic Pin mounted on the inside rear of the Panel that goes into a hole in the body; pushing it to the rear pulls the pin out of the hole).
After that slowly lift the rear of the Pannel.

Take pictures of the Connectors, make a drawing or mark the electrical connectors. Theelectrical Connectors pull out.

The Switches have some plastic tabs on each side that need to be squeezed in order to push the switch from the inside of the panel to the outside.
The above is what you would need to do to get the switches in and out of the panel. You would have to do the above even if you bought new switches and put them in yourself.
To install the switches just carefull push them back into the panel and install the connectors.

Now that the Switch is out of the Panel look at the Switch and notice that the Switch rocks back and forth when you press it. I is pivoting in the middle on some plastic pins that are attached to the Rocker part of the Switch (this is the part you press when you operate the switch).
To get inside of the switch you take a dull thin Knife like a normal Knive you would use at your table (If you want tap the area you hold onto because you need to have your hand close to the point where you will be prying to contol the prying).
You stick the Knive Blade between the middle of the Switch Rocker and the body of the switch and carefull pry inwards and upwards on the Rocker and move the Pin away from the outer wall of the Switch.
Do the same on the other side.
Ouce the Rocker is loose be careful as there is several parts that can come loose inside and not the positions of the parts. There is 2 Springs, 2 little Steel ***** and 2 Copper Rockers.
Remove those parts and take a look for burned areas inside of the Switch. Scrape the Burned areas with a knife until there is bare metal. Clean out any crude and assemble the switch back the way it was before. The Plastic Switch Rocker for the most part will push straight in.

This is what the inside of my switch looked like. (Cheap new switches are $36-$50 or more each.)
In the first pic you see the Switch Rocker at the top and notice the 2 springs in it. Those springs may or may not stay in place.
Notice the 2 Steel Ball Bearings on top of the Copper Rockers.

The other pic shows the little round contact areas that are burned. The Copper Rockers also have those little round contact areas that need to be scraped clean.