Huy Huynh –Hey guys! Thank you for hosting The Dusty Life Podcast. I look forward to your weekly episodes. On Episode 015, Michael Morley asked about saw blades and expressed considerable frustration when it comes to resawing on his bandsaw. I’ve had the same issues when it came to blade drift and burning. Brian mentioned removing the fence all together and “eye-ball” the cut based on a scribe line. I’ve tried this method in the past as well, and while I was able to get decent results, it seemed like a waste of resources given the fact that my 17″ Grizzly bandsaw came with a tall resaw fence specific to the task of resawing. I did a search on Youtube and found Alex Snodgrass’ bandsaw clinic. He went from start-to-finish on how to setup your bandsaw for resawing or scrolling. I tried his method of setup and I was able to get flawless results with my resaw fence. Here is evidence of my results on my Instagram page (https://www.instagram.com/p/BBtLoXlSxHn/?hl=en). I used a 1/2″, 3 TPI blade made by Woodslicer. I was able to resaw maple down to less than 3/32″ (~0.085″) without burning or drift. Seriously, no shortcuts, gimmicks, or special tools. I followed Alex’s method to the “T.” I’m now convinced that the setup method specified in my instruction manual is wrong, period. My issues were two-fold: 1) My blade was centered on the crown of my wheel causing both the front and the back of the blade to oscillate, and 2) the blade I was using was the stock blade that came with my bandsaw. Essentially, I had too many teeth-per-inch and the set of the teeth and depth of the gullets were such that the blade did not clear out enough waste. Here is the video I used to setup my bandsaw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU).

I hope this helps and sorry for the long email.

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Sincerely,

Huy Huynh

P.S. I do not work nor do I own any Carter products.

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