How to Vacation Like Giorgio Armani

With its stark natural beauty and clean-lined dammusi, the Sicilian island of Pantelleria could have been created by minimalist master Giorgio Armani. Which may be why, for the past 40 years, the designer has returned to this volcanic rock every summer. Here, he shares his secrets from the island he insists he knows “better than anyone.”

It’s common knowledge that Giorgio Armani appreciates consistency. The clothes he designs are invariably minimalist and elegant. When it comes to dressing himself, he prefers a uniform (most often navy pants and a navy T-shirt). And each summer, when he’s ready to unwind from planning ten fashion shows and running a $6 billion empire, his six-week vacation follows a familiar itinerary. In mid-July, he meets ten friends in St-Tropez to sail his 213-foot super-yacht, the Maìn, around Mediterranean islands including Ibiza, Formentera, Sardinia, and the Aeolians. The final destination is always Pantelleria, a remote Italian island that is closer to Africa—in distance and in some ways, in character—than it is to Sicily. There, the group stays at Armani’s home for about three weeks, the longest time the 82-year-old designer spends in any one place all year.

Though he’s a Pantelleria acolyte now, Armani says that when he arrived 40 years ago, “it wasn’t love at first sight.” Tagging along on his friends’ trip to the 32-square-mile island, “I found it stark, hostile, and coarse,” he says. “Then I realized something haunted me.”

Pantelleria isn’t exactly packaged for tourist consumption. The arid landscape is ringed in volcanic rocks that glimmer in the sun and dotted with dammusi, boxy local houses with dome-shaped roofs made from lava rock. It has no sand beaches (on his first visit, Armani recalls having bruised his legs climbing on the rocks down to the sea) or glittering nightlife. The roosters and dogs make more noise than the not-quite 8,000 locals. But the low-key, low-frills scene is what Armani has grown to love about what he calls “this rock in the sea.”

He spends most of his time at his compound in Cala Gadir, on the northeast coast, an expanded version of the property he bought in 1979, three years after his first visit. “I lived here when there wasn’t electricity on the island,” he recalls. “You had to pump your own water.”

Services have definitely improved—today, Armani’s estate includes seven dammusi (decorated, of course, with furniture and tableware from his Armani/Casa line), outdoor terraces, and a pool, and is served by a staff of 12 when he’s here. Still, his days follow a simple routine: early-morning walks along the ancient Roman paths, breakfast by the pool, perhaps a stroll to Gadir, the port down the hill from his home, and boat rides in a tender to search for swimming spots. Though he often eats at home, where meals are cooked by Marianna, his Pantellerian chef for over 30 years, he also has a few places in town where he’s a regular. “I feel like one of the locals here,” he says. Anyone who visits Armani’s Pantelleria should be prepared to live like an islander, too. “Come with a spartan spirit,” he advises. “Forget the jet set, the partying, the cool people, and the nights until the wee hours. They don’t exist. And no one wants them here.”

Pantelleria, Armani Style

Walk It OffArmani hikes a mile and a quarter every day, starting from his home at 7 a.m. with his personal trainer and heading down any of the trails that run along the northwest section of the island, such as Cala Cinque Denti or Cala Cottone, which leads to the lighthouse. One of his favorites is the Sentiero Romano, “a road traveled by the ancient Romans and a hike I really enjoy,” he says. Along the way, he picks wildflowers and brings them back home.

Dive In“A rock in the middle of the sea,” as Armani describes it, Pantelleria doesn’t have classic sandy beaches to lie on. But there are gorgeous swimming spots, including Balata dei Turchi bay, on the southern tip; Martingana, in the southeast; and Khattibuale to the north, where you can sunbathe on shiny black volcanic slabs. To get out on the water, hire a boat along the lungomare, in the harbor of Pantelleria Centro, and sail past the cove of Cala Levante to a spectacular stone arch called L’Arco dell’Elefante, which you can backstroke under. For a therapeutic soak, visit the natural thermal baths at the end of the path to the inlet of Gadir.

Take a Mud BathLago di Venere, in the north of the ­island, is a crystal-clear brackish lake formed in a volcanic crater. The 39-foot-deep lake has thermal ­waters and natural mud baths and is part of a nature preserve where you’ll also find running trails. Armani recommends slathering yourself in mud on the far southern end of the lake, where hot water comes bubbling up, and then lying in the sun to let it dry.

Grab a GranitaTo abstain from a gelso granita, made from the island’s fresh mulberries, would be a cardinal sin. Armani likes
to get his from Bar Aurora, in Pantelleria’s main port, each time he hops on and off his boat.

Pick Up a PieThe best pizzeria on the island—La Portella, in Tracino—won’t win any beauty contests, but the plastic chairs don’t deter Armani. La Portella’s chefs make 89 varieties of pizza, including local specialty Pantesca (tomato, mozzarella, anchovies, onions, olives, and capers). And yet, true to form, ­Armani keeps it simple: “I always order the Margherita or the Napoli without cheese, extra crispy.” Side note: During the summer, there’s often live music out front.

Drink Before the Sun Goes DownA wine bar and restaurant set in the middle of the Coste Ghirlanda vineyards, L’Officina di Coste Ghirlanda is one of the best-looking joints on the island. (It’s called the Coste Ghirlanda Wine Laboratory in English, but everyone on Pantelleria refers to it by its Italian name.) It’s truly a summer spot (open only from June through mid-September), and Armani likes to go “around 6 p.m. to have happy hour and to enjoy the sunset.” He prefers the corner table on the wooden deck surrounded by grapevines. You’ll want to stay for dinner once the stars appear and the candles are lit, and plan on picking up a few souvenirs—they sell their own wine, olive oil, pâté, and pesto.

Eat with the LocalsOsteria il Principe e il Pirata, in Punta Karace, is a traditional trattoria with wooden chairs, local wines, and an outstanding location looking out to sea. “I like having dinner here, both for the menu, which is typical of the ­island, and for the beautiful view that you can enjoy comfortably sitting at its tables,” says Armani. Try the ravioli with ricotta and mint, the stuffed zucchini, or the catch of the day served with potatoes, olives, and capers.

Where to StayThere are few hotels on the island; most people rent dammusi through Club Levante or stay at the Pantelleria Dream Resort. But this July, the owners of L’Officina di Coste Ghirlanda opened the island’s first boutique hotel, Sikelia Luxury Retreat, in the southwestern village of Rekhale. Here, you’ll find 20 modern suites within a collection of ancient dammusi, and a walled garden where you can have a massage under the palm trees. The on-site restaurant, Themà, serves Pantellerian specialties ­including fish couscous, ­caponata, and potato salad with cherry tomatoes and capers.

We curated a playlist inspired by the stark landscape and quiet nights of Armani's favorite summer hideout: