First sold in 1791 to a scientifically literate audience, chemistry sets have since occupied many niches—from colorful children’s toys to essential educational tools. Now making a comeback after years of public neglect, modern chemistry sets are ready to deal with the issues of the 21st century.

In the late 19th century cod-liver oil was proclaimed the cure for many ailments. One problem: the oil’s foul taste. Manufacturers, including Scott and Bowne, created tastier versions and successfully shepherded the oil through medical skepticism, the discovery of vitamins, and the rise of artificial supplements.

From lab accident to wonder drug to chemical has-been, saccharin’s history tracks the rise of consumer consciousness, government regulation, and the uncertainties underlying scientific evidence. At the same time as changing food habits drove saccharin’s rise, some lamented the threat to “natural” foods.