The current firmware (2.0.8) has been out for a couple of months so if you bought the 5DmII new, it should be ready to go out of the box. You can check the firmware version in the menu. If it has older firmware, the file is available at the Canon site:

and very easy to upgrade -- but of course as with any firmware, follow the instructions exactly for a happy outcome!

__________________Pete BauerThe most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and science. Albert EinsteinTrying to solve a DV mystery? You may find the answer behind the SEARCH function ... or be able to join a discussion already in progress!

I don't know about right out of the box...you'll still have to go through all the setup, turning off all the auto stuff, etc., that you would have done with the 7D. I made the switch early last year. The 5D isn't quite as ergonomic as the 7D, and may be a little frustrating at first, but once you get it all setup and go into the menu and get the live view setup right, the manual audio, etc., you'll love it. I wouldn't go back. The only real issue i have to work around sometimes is that the DOF is way more shallow than the 7D, so there are some situations where I have to boost ISO to get enough DOF to follow focus. And that's another thing--after my first shoot with the 5D I ordered a follow focus system. You can live without it on the 7D but it's difficult on the 5D.

I'm afraid not and that 5D2 test isn't even mine. I grabbed it from another forum before it went to the ether. The test has been challenged here by some, I can't remember the thread. But I still think it's pretty accurate.

Kris--very nice article. The Zacuto tests confirmed the ISO thing. There was some disagreement some time back but I believe that was from still photographers. If you're shooting stills, it's possible different ISO settings are cleaner, but for video those have been proven to be the best.

I know there are a lot of opinions about optimal ISO settings out there.

One school of thought holds that 160, 320, 640 etc. are lower noise because they're a "pull" from the chip, while 100, 200, 400 etc. have better dynamic range. 125, 250, 500 etc. are just bad--worse noise and dynamic range. On my monitors, this appears to be the case, but the differences are subtle. Because DR is way more important to me than noise in most cases, I've been using 100, 200, etc.

This depends on how you look at it. When you set the view of both cameras identically (say, a 50mm lens on the 7D and 80mm on the 5D2) and set the exposure (including aperture) identically, the 5D2 will have shallower focus.

On the other hand, with the same lens and same settings on both cams, the DOF will be about the same, but the 7D image will be zoomed in.

And sure, you can adjust aperture to deepen focus, but there are limits depending on available light.

One thing to do with a new camera is to test it for any dead pixels. Get somewhere dark, set it to 3200 and film a wall or something uniform. Take the footage and inspect it for any white dead pixels. If manual sensor cleaning doesn't fix it, b&h will replace it and even have their sales guy check the unit before they ship out the new one.

A dead pixel is no problem because it would definiteley not show on a video. Even a stills image taken at full resolution would only show the pixel when you examin it very closely at 100%. When you view a 21MP Raw image at 33% in ZoomBrowzer EX, this will be what it will look like when printed in a magazine or book, and you will definitely not see a dead pixel in the print. Footage captured in video mode, with one or two dead pixels on the sensor, would almost be impossible to see even if blown up and watched on a big screen. Dead pixels would only be an issue if numerous dead-pixels were grouped tightly together on the sensor.

Yes you will see dead pixel on your tv or print if the dead pixels are on the chip, if the dead pixel is on the lcd then you won't see it, I would hook up your camera to your monitor by the hdmi cable and put a lens cap on and crank up your iso to 3200 or so, if you see dead pixel then do manual cleaning like Greg suggested, if that doesn't fix it return it for another.