4. No need to buy new O2 sensors. But it is a VERY good idea to spray them down liberally with WD-40 or any penetrating oil a few hours before trying to remove them, preferably the night before. Recommend using a O2 Sensor Socket and a breaker bar to loosen them.

5. A good idea to use Anti-seize on the header bolts and O2 sensors. Torque the header bolts to 18-20 ft. lbs. Re-check torque after 500 miles or so.

6. You will need a pair of 12" O2 Extension harnesses for the front sensors.

7. There is no way to avoid the tune.....not with long tubes. You don't necessarily HAVE to get a tune, but without it, you will eventually get a "check engine light" illuminated on your dash. If that doesn't bother you, then don't tune it. But you're definitely not going to be getting the optimum performance from your headers.....kinda defeats the purpose!!!

P.S. If you haven't decided on a brand yet, I would highly recommed Texas-Speed for a "budget-friendly" set of headers. From there there cost goes up quite a bit, but Kooks, Stainless Works, and American Racing are all top-tier headers. Or the ultimate.....Pfadt is just about to release theirs too!!!!

4. No need to buy new O2 sensors. But it is a VERY good idea to spray them down liberally with WD-40 or any penetrating oil a few hours before trying to remove them, preferably the night before. Recommend using a O2 Sensor Socket and a breaker bar to loosen them.

Added to my notes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazzin1

5. A good idea to use Anti-seize on the header bolts and O2 sensors. Torque to 18-20 ft. lbs. Re-check torque after 500 miles or so.

Added to my notes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazzin1

6. You will need a pair of 12" O2 Extension harnesses for the front sensors.

Do you have a part number for these?

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazzin1

7. There is no way to avoid the tune.....not with long tubes. You don't necessarily HAVE to get a tune, but without it, you will eventually get a "check engine light" illuminated on your dash. If that doesn't bother you, then don't tune it. But you're definitely not going to be getting the optimum performance from your headers.....kinda defeats the purpose!!!

Going to probably be placing my order for headers here within the next couple weeks and wanted to build a list of needs, however, I need advice if i"m missing something. Please let me know...

1. Headers (1 7/8" LT) Do the bolts come with the headers or do we reuse the OEM?
2. Hi Flow Cats (connect to factory connection so it meets up with THR exhaust)

What else do I need?

Do I need new factory gaskets for the headers? Should I just order a set of those?

Do I need new O2 sensors? I was told there was a way to avoid a tune? How is this possible? Is it worth it or is a tune just cheaper?

Anti-seize? For what exactly?

Any extra fluids? Oil?

Am I missing anything?

Most headers come with bolts.

You have a 2012, so your factory gaskets can be reused (low mileage), no need to order new ones.

Dont need O2 sensors (reuse factory), the headers also usually come with extensions so the wires will reach.

You will get a check engine light/emmissions code thrown. I plan to get a tune, but there are things out there that plug in and trick the ECM into thinking the O2 sensor is working perfectly and the readings are fine.

Dont need anti-sieze, dont need oil, dont need any fluids.

You need sockets and wrenches. If you want, an O2 sensor socket (slit on the side for the wiring harness). Also if you want, sparkplug sockets, it will make it easier.

Nail polish or something to mark your steering knuckle/shaft if you have to take it off (i did).

A creeper will help. Let the car cool off for a long time, jack, jack stands.

With your low mileage, none of the bolts, plug wires, O2 sensors are gonna be hard to get off. I just did mine on my 2012, I have 18k miles, and didnt need W-D 40

Most any header manufacturer will include the O2 extensions with their headers or at least give you the option of adding them to your purchase. I think they run about $30-$40 for the pair.

The cost of a tune varies greatly!!! You can spend several hundred dollars putting your car on a dyno and having it custom tuned. Not really necessary for just "bolt-ons". I would recommend getting a mail-order tune through someone like Jannetty Racing. If you buy your headers and/or handheld device (SCT) through him, the tune itself is free. Ted Jannetty is probably the most well-respected 5th Gen Tuner in the country!!! Not exactly "cheap", but highly recommended.

For myself, after I installed headers, I found a very reputable LS tuner in my area (2 hours away) that offered to tune my ECM for $120!!! I just had to remove the ECM and send it to him, he flashed it with what it needed, and sent it back to me. Done deal!!! That would be hard to beat anywhere!!!

Not sure why Vroomapunk said no anti-seize...you definitely want to apply some to the sensor threads before you screw them into the new headers/midpipes. Anti-seize is not needed for the header bolts, but it won't hurt to use some if you wish.

Do not use the gasket sealant if it's provided with the headers. Just reuse the OEM gaskets with no sealant.

Depending on the manufacturer, you may not need to take the steering shaft loose to install the headers. The instructions included with my Stainless Power headers stated to do so, but mine slipped in with no issue without separating the shaft. It has a lot to do with how high you get your car off the ground when you do the work.

I did a lot of research and decided to get the SCT X3 tuner as part of the package Jannetty sells. In the long run, there is cost savings, especially if you plan to add on more performance later on. Best of luck to you.

Most any header manufacturer will include the O2 extensions with their headers or at least give you the option of adding them to your purchase. I think they run about $30-$40 for the pair.

The cost of a tune varies greatly!!! You can spend several hundred dollars putting your car on a dyno and having it custom tuned. Not really necessary for just "bolt-ons". I would recommend getting a mail-order tune through someone like Jannetty Racing. If you buy your headers and/or handheld device (SCT) through him, the tune itself is free. Ted Jannetty is probably the most well-respected 5th Gen Tuner in the country!!! Not exactly "cheap", but highly recommended.

For myself, after I installed headers, I found a very reputable LS tuner in my area (2 hours away) that offered to tune my ECM for $120!!! I just had to remove the ECM and send it to him, he flashed it with what it needed, and sent it back to me. Done deal!!! That would be hard to beat anywhere!!!

Thank you for being so informative. I really appreciate it. I will speak with the vendor I was speaking with. I was looking at Stainless Power headers. Will these have extensions? Do you know?

Now the that takes care of the front sensors, what about the back ones? Do I not plug anything in then? What happens back there?

As for tunes, I will contact THR if possible and get a box tune (as I keep my warranty through them if I tune through them.)

there are things out there that plug in and trick the ECM into thinking the O2 sensor is working perfectly and the readings are fine.

I personally, haven't seen ANY of these things work on a 5th Gen yet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vroomapunk

Dont need anti-sieze

Putting steel bolts in an aluminum head....anti-seize is HIGHLY recommended.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vroomapunk

Also if you want, sparkplug sockets, it will make it easier.

Good point! I forgot to mention that. It is a good idea (although not mandatory) to remove the spark plugs before starting removal. Just for the simple fact that the plugs may get bumped around and possibly cracked during the removal/installation process. Safer just to remove them to avoid any potential problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vroomapunk

Nail polish or something to mark your steering knuckle/shaft if you have to take it off (i did).

Thank you for being so informative. I really appreciate it. I will speak with the vendor I was speaking with. I was looking at Stainless Power headers. Will these have extensions? Do you know?

Now the that takes care of the front sensors, what about the back ones? Do I not plug anything in then? What happens back there?

As for tunes, I will contact THR if possible and get a box tune (as I keep my warranty through them if I tune through them.)

Thank you!

Stainless Power Headers are another very good "budget-friendly" header. They "should" come with the necessary O2 extensions, confirm with your vendor. The back sensors should screw into the aft portion of the high flow cats, and connected as normal. However, I believe in the tune, they are functionally deleted anyway. THR should be able to fix you up with a tune....probably won't be cheap, but at least you'll keep the warranty on your THR parts.

If you do need to disconnect the steering stem, do not let anyone turn the steering wheel. It will rotate easily and if over rotated will break the clock spring. But I believe you would have to have the key in it and turned to unlock the wheel.

You definitely want anti-seize going back in on the header bolts, spark plugs, and O2 sensors. It is not "needed" but, it makes little sense not to use it. It pretty much ensures that, in case you need/want to take anything apart in the future, there will be no thread damage or breaking-off of any components.

Also, instead of WD-40 on your O2 sensors, I highly recommend PB Penetrating Catalyst. I used WD-40 on my sensors and they wouldn't budge (even after soaking overnight). 20 min after spraying PB, the sensors came out like butter.

+1 on reusing OEM bolts and gaskets. I just re-installed my rear O2 sensors just to plug the holes. The tune turns them off anyway. There are "tricks" to fool the rear O2 sensors if you are not going to tune for a while but they have very mixed results. Just tune it and be done with it. With a good tuner/tune, you will love the results. Gotta pay to play.