Replacing these natural keratins with protein-based conditioners is the usual option for restoring some of that strength.

But what if proteins leave your hair feeling frazzled?

Protein sensitivity. . .

Protein sensitive, one of the many neologisms coined on the hair forums, describes hair that reacts badly to protein-based products. Typically, the hair will show some stiffening and, in the worst cases, even take on strawlike, brittle state. Why exactly it occurs is not 100% clear. Sometimes, the problem can be traced to overuse: typically protein products work by depositing small particles into holes in the hair shaft left by damage. Using too much at once, not cleansing it effectively or using the product too frequently, runs the risk of creating buildup, as layer after jagged layer of the protein residue accumulate on the hair shaft.

In some cases, however, people notice their hair responds negatively to protein products even without having used them excessively and after applying them only on clarified hair.

If this happens often enough and with different products containing protein, it's likely a case of incompatibility between the hair and the ingredient type.

Some hair does not take kindly to products being left on its surface, particularly protein-based ingredients which tend to have a natural stiffness to them.

Still, proteins are touted as a requisite of good haircare, and work for the vast majority of people, so it can be hard to see how – even when protein products are unsatisfactory – just where you will get the much vaunted-strengthening benefits. The good news is that the replenishing and resiliency that make protein treatments so sought after can be found in other kinds of treatments and products.

Polysaccharides

While proteins are chains of amino acids, polysaccharides, which include starches, are chains of sugars. These natural polymers can also imbue strength to your tresses, by working in exactly the same way the proteins do: filling in gaps on your hair's surface left by damage, and in some cases, leaving a protective film over the hair which insulates it against further harm.

While they work similarly, many people who do not do well with proteins find their hair flourishes with polysaccharides.Popular haircare ingredients containing natural polysaccharides include kelp, marshmallow root extract, aloe vera and flax seed gel.

Coconut oil One of the few oils that can actually penetrate the hair, coconut oil has been clinically proven to protect against protein loss from the inside out. It takes several hours to actually get deep into the hair shaft, but once it does, coconut oil crosslinks to the hair's natural keratins holding them in place. Try a pretreatment with this oil to get maximum benefits, since it takes so long to penetrate. Because of coconut oil's dramatic strengthening powers, some protein-sensitive folk presume that it contains protein and avoid it for that reason. This is a mistake: as an oil, coconut oil is 100% lipid: it contains no protein whatsoever. When it comes to boosting your hair's strength, oils have several advantages over protein.

Water

While protein treatments vary in how effectively they build up your hair's strength, none can match the work of water – studies have shown that strands with the proper levels of moisture are up to 300% stronger!

Many women who have little luck with proteins are able to cut them out of their haircare regimen completely, by making sure they keep their hair well-moisturised.

Please remember, though, that the strength derives from the moisture levels within your hair when it is “dry”. Keeping the hair wet all the time means keeping it in a weak state and is thus counterproductive. If you plan on going the moisture-only route and not replacing the protein with another strengthener, it is vital that you keep up your routine for optimal hydration. Layer your products to make sure your hair is kept insulated and stick to the conditioners that make your hair the smoothest and most flexible.

By keeping tabs on your elasticity, and maintaining hydration at healthy levels, you can ensure that your hair is as resilient as can be, without having to rely on proteins.

Hello,
I am new to this issue. My hair was damaged by bad chemical process and then mistakenly overproteinized leading to breakage. I
inquired to manufacturer's and websites trying to determine if their products contain protein. Many times I was misinformed and ended up with a product labeled moisturizing but had hidden proteins. I am frustrated and confused in trying to find a natural/organic shampoo and condition that is protein free, paraben free, sulfate free, silicone free and preferably fragrance free or botanically based. Can you please help me before my hair fails out from stress and or breakage? I am will to try mainstream product if it meets my criteria stated.

Thank you

Reply

DHA's DIY

8/5/2013 10:18:30 am

Hi Samantha,

If your hair is breaking, then you might benefit from a switch from shampoos to exclusive co-washing. Washing with conditioner will leave your hair softer, less tangled, and more moisturized. Since moisture is the #1 strengthener, this should help curb some of the breakage. Some protein-free Dominican conditioners include the <a href=“http://www.dominicanhairalliance.com/1/post/2013/01/its-all-in-the-ingredients-the-food-in-dominican-conditioners.html”>Capilo Suela & Canela Line</a>, which is silicone-free, and atrActiva Multivitamin Treatment, which does contain a silicone. All of these add a ton of moisture and strength, minus the protein, and use key natural ingredients such as Cinnamon, Olive Oil and Vitamin E. However, they do contain parabens.

One more thing: even if your hair has been protein sensitive, that does not necessarily mean you have to avoid proteins for life. You may just need to give your hair a break from them. Sometimes, the bad reaction your hair has to a protein-containing product could be due to another ingredient in the formula, or simply because that particular formulation didn't suit your hair – sometimes it's not a particular ingredient, but how those ingredients are blended together. Another thing to consider is the type of protein: some hair can tolerate wheat protein, but not keratin, for instance, and sometimes the type of keratin also makes a difference. It does take a bit of experimentation and a lot of time to find the right fit, so don't get too dismayed. Wishing you healthy, lengthy hair and thanks for your comment!

Reply

Lola

20/11/2014 08:29:43 pm

My hair is protein sensitive and I have been struggling to find natural products that add moisture and shine to my fine 3c curls. Most products that I've tried--even highly rated natural shea and coconut oil based products--have left my healthy hair feeling dry and brittle and frizzy. Additionally, neither shea butter nor coconut oil seem to help when applied as a pre-treatment. While not as drying, aloe based products (other than Kinky Curly Knot Today), leave me with unattractive overdefined coils.

What's left?

Reply

DHA's DIY

23/11/2014 09:52:49 pm

Hi Lola,

Not even coconut oil works for every hair type, so feel free to give up any products, natural or otherwise, that don't benefit your hair.

Since your main concern is moisture and shine, concentrate on treating and conditioning. If you create a well-conditioned base for your hair, not only will you get the shine and hydration you're looking for, but all the products you use on top will work better.

Since you're protein sensitive stick to moisturising treatments. The moisture they contain will give your hair strength (up to 3x as much) so you may not even need to use strengthening DTs.

For a leave in, Capilo La Aplanadora gives light definition and lasting moisture; it doesn't contain aloe, coconut or shea. It's not a styler per se, but your hair sounds like it doesn't need styling products to add definition. The moisture that La Aplanadora gives should be just enough to let your curls keep their natural structure, without overdefining them or making them stringy.

Reply

Veena

17/3/2019 05:31:35 pm

Heyy , i have 3a protein sensitive hair my hair hates coconut oil and usually dries despite doing deep conditioning ever week 😫 wash day its tricky my hair doesnt curl at the root and has a lot of frizz 😅
Second day hair is tricky only the ends and mid length curls slightly . Ik i have low porosity hair but have no idea what product to use , how to moisturize it and how to get my curls back and bouncy . Thanks for reading it , have a nice day

Since you have low porosity hair, use atrActiva Multivitamin Treatment; it will actually penetrate your hair type and keep moisture locked in. The higher moisture levels should help enhance your curl, too.

To maximise curliness, don't comb or brush after you've rinsed out the treatment; 3A hair can easily stretch and lose curl. Remember to scrunch, focusing on your root areas when wet to bring back the curl. Diffusing can help lock the curl in, too.

It's also possible that your styler is weighing down your curls, too. Try going styler-free to see if that's the case.

Reply

Sara

30/3/2019 04:30:56 am

I have relaxed hair and am needing a moisture protein balance regimen. I have just used the silicon mix original deep conditioner and it was amazing. Is it a protein conditioner? Do I need to alternate it with something? Can I use it 1-2x per week? If it’s not moisture what moisture conditioner do I balance it with? If it is moisture what protein do I balance with? Thanks

Reply

DHA's DIY

1/4/2019 01:26:55 pm

Hi Sara,

Silicon Mix is a moisturising treatment. It does contain a small amount of keratin, but not at the intensity of a typical protein treatment. It's OK to use it once or twice a week, unless you feel your hair getting overconditioned. You can balance it with protein treatments 1-3 times a month. 3 really good ones are:

Halka Baba de Caracol
Capilo La Aplanadora
BPT Wheat Germ Treatment

If you want a strengthening treatment without protein, then try atrActiva Keratin Rich Conditioner, which uses ceramides to build strength instead.