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This has to be THE most common failure mode for a digital camera. Some common error messages that might show up on the LCD's of cameras with this problem include "E18 lens error", or "lens error, restart camera". Some cameras might show nothing at all, but merely make a beeping noise as the lens goes out, then in, then the camera shuts off. Sometimes the lens won't even move.

The problem is actually quite common throughout all camera brands. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. Or the battery ran down with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one BIG contributor to lens errors is using a camera case. Sand, gunk, case fibers, etc... accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials love to cling to the camera by electrostatic build-up from the camera rubbing against the side of the case (especially those cases with soft fibrous intreriors). Once these materials work their way into the lens mechanism, that's all she wrote. I have many cameras, and NEVER use a case for this very reason.

A camera owner that suffers this problem may have no recourse for having the camera repaired. Many camera makers will not honor repairing this problem under warranty as they claim it is due to impact damage to the camera, or sand or debris getting into the lens gearing mechanism (neither of which is covered under warranty). The quoted repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth.

Fortunately, about half the cameras that suffer this failure can easily be fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods involve opening the camera, although some have potential to cause other damage to the camera if excessively done. If the camera is still under warranty, before trying any of these, please please first contact your camera's maker to see if they'll cover the repair, or to determine how much they'll charge for the repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote you a number that's higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods.

The methods are listed in the order of risk of damaging your camera. Thus make sure you try them in the listed order. And remember, these fixes (especially #6 and 7) should only be considered for a camera that's out of warranty, who's cost of repair would be excessive, and would otherwise be considered for disposal if unrepaired:

Fix #1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Put a fresh set of batteries back in (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500mah or better) and turn the camera on. If that didn't work, try pressing and holding the Function or OK button while turning the camera on.

Fix #2: Remove the batteries, then remove the memory card. Then install new batteries, and turn on the camera. If you get an Error E30, it means you don't have a memory card installed, so turn it off, slip in the memory card and turn it on one last time.

Fix #3: Insert the cameras Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particals that may be jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself, consider keeping this cable installed while trying fixes 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra help to these fixes. But note that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER tapping the camera.

Fix #4: Place the camera flat on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins in their slots.

Fix #5: Blow compressed air in the gaps around the lens barrels with the idea of blowing out any sand or grit that may be in there jamming the lens. Other variations include blowing with a hair dryer in "no heat" setting, or sucking the gaps with a vacuum (careful with this one).

Now we're entering into the realm of potentially damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here, so take care when conducting the following two fixes.

Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some potential for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.

Fix #7: Try forcing the lens. More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other methods. HOWEVER, there's obviously some potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the power button. Attempt to gently straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap (note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera.

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Related Questions:

alignment of pentaprism, you need to send it in or if its a goner, try it yourself. Unscrew one of the objective barrels and observe the pentaprism mounts. They may be in screw driven supports. adjust screw one at a time to see if you can get it back into alignment.

Somebody, Please give us suggestions and solutions to this problem... this is the very same problem with my 10x24UCF WR Pentax Binocular. I'm Jun Galvez from Philippines, Email add: mimo_369423@yahoo.com

This is a common problem with binoculars. One of the prisms has shifted and the two sides are therefore no longer in optical alignment (collimation). Unfortunately, fixing this requires a degree of expertise, which may cost more than you will want to spend. I have often taken old binoculars apart or found external adjustments that allowed me to realign them, but I have ruined a few pair this way. Not a good idea if they are valuable.

If you can find the paperwork and they are still in warranty, you might try to get Canon to repair them, but I suspect that they will say they have suffered an accident, not a manufacturing fault.

The same happened to my Mizar 10X25 I tried things like moving the front lenses but then I discovered that most probably the binoculars fell on one of the four corners, this caused the tubes' direction to be twisted. It could be that the left is pointing slightly down or the right is pointing slightly up, which is essentially the same, and which is what happened to mine. You can discover this miss-alignment by watching using both eyes and then close and open one of them the phantom image will appear and disappear. What you have to do is apply a force with your hands twisting the binoculars one tube up and the other down and hold where you can see clear, I just discovered this and it works, I think I should be able to re-align them again, but I haven't faund how to do so. If you find a different solution please let me know here: gregsoli@yahoo.com

There are a series of lenses and prisms inside the binoculars. When the unit was dropped one of more of those elements have been dislodged and that is what is causing the double image. You can check with the retailer to see if there is a repair center in your area. The way these units are put together they are difficult to take apart, repair, and put back together. Depending on the cost of the unit you might be better off replacing them. Check with the retailer to see what they say.

Most binoculars should allow you to grip the two sides and pull them closer together to fit the distance between your eyes.. Have you tried this?What you should see is the two images come together to form one.

If you have tried this already and you still get the two images then it's possible the model is just too wide for your eyes.. If they're new you could try return them for another type that fit better..

If this works for you then here are the instructions for setting up the binoculars to give you the best result for your eyesight..

This is more common than you would think.. Here's how to set up a pair of binoculars to suit yourself.Any good binocular will be able to do this and the reason is to allow you to adjust them for the difference in strenght between your two eyes. I wear glasses myself and sometimes contact lenses so it's good to be able to quickly adjust them.

1. turn the binoculars over so you are looking at the underside.2. on the eyepieces can you see on one eye(usually the right eye) a little plus - minus marking. The eyepiece should be able to rotate a little to each side of this marking.3. Set the rotating eyepiece to the middle setting.4. Look through the binoculars as normal and bring the two sides together until you form the two circles that you see into one.5. Pick an object app 10 meters away.6 Presuming that the adjustable eyepiece is on the right hand side then close your right eye, look at the middle distance object you chose with your left eye and use the central focusing knob/wheel in the middle to bring your left eyepiece into focus.7. Now, close your left eye and adjust the rotating right hand eyepiece while looking at the same object until your right eyepiece is in focus.8. The binoculars should now be set for the differences in strenght of your eyes and you can use the middle focus control as normal.

Most binoculars have a soft rubber eyepiece that can be folded back for people who wear glasses but I, like most people I know who wear glasses, find it horribly uncomfortable.

This method allows you to set them for yourself and if someone else uses your binoculars you can quickly reset them for you.

Hope this helps...

- Oh yeah, sorry, forgot to mention.. This set up is so you can use them without wearing your glasses.. Much more comfortable!!

Your question is listed under "Zhumell Oberwerk 45 25x100 Astronomy binoculars". If these are what you have then they're an extremely high end expensive specialist item and will need professional realignment. I'm assuming that if you do own a pair of these then you're knowledgeable enough to have done all you can to adjust them correctly.

I suspect that you have a regular pair of 10x50 or similar binoculars, with a centre focus wheel and hinges. If this is the case then try to wiggle one of the eyepieces back and forth: if you can easily move it and the other eyepiece remains steady then you have a broken hinge. This is a very common fault especially if your binos have been dropped or if they've been stored in their case upside down (i.e.standing on the eyepieces).

A broken hinge is normally a write-off as there is rarely sufficient area to us epoxy glue on and the metal used is not usually suited to being brazed. Even when the hinge can be repaired it's normally permanently misaligned.

Either resign yourself to using one half of your binoculars or buy a new pair. In the UK LIDL regularly sell a pair of Meade 10x50 binos of excellent quality for just over £10 and that's only a little more than a bottle of epoxy resin glue costs. You may be interested to know that one of the world's most successful supernova spotters does so in his back garden in the UK using just half a pair of old 7x50 binos.

Your binoculars are out of collimation. That means that the optical path needs to be aligned. Binoculars are designed so that the focus point of each barrel is the same over long and as short as possible distances. Binoculars that are properly aligned will still show a double image if you attempt to focus at something close that is too close for the models design. However this is not the same for long distances. The image at a long distance must not be doubled.

If they are under warranty and you haven't damaged them by dropping etc send them for repair to the manufacturer or ask the retailer where to send them.

If you are going to pay to have them fixed get a quote first. Binoculars that are of the zoom variety are not well thought of among binocular officionados as the quality of image degrades at higher magnification. For the price of repair you may be able to source a higher quality non zoom binocular.