Does anyone sub to iRacing? It looks really good, and is made by at least some of the old Papyrus team. They are currently running a promotion wherein you pay for your first month ($12) and get the 2nd and 3rd months free. There's also another promotion to get the first month free entirely.

This sim is known for having real-world racers as some of it's member base, including Dale Earnhardt Jr, Jacques Villeneuve, Justin Wilson, Alex Gurney, to name a few.

For noobs (like me), I've been reading up on it, and they accomodate everyone from casual gamepad racers up to uber-realistic simmers using $4000 racing chair setups.

Btw, if anyone here is a current member, and would like a $10 credit for a reference, post here and I will list you as a reference (I've not subscribed yet). First to post, obviously. I have a friend who might sign up as well, so if a 2nd person posts, we might can get you a credit as well.

I don't sub, but I've heard great things. I'm waiting for G27's to come back in stock to pick up a wheel. Once I get bored with console racing games/sims, I'll probably turn to harder stuff like iRacing.

NSMike wrote:

How did I live before digital distribution of old, cheap games?

MilkmanDanimal wrote:

You did live before digital distribution of old, cheap games. Now you just play games.

There does seem to be a shortage of racing wheels available right now. I was considering the Logi Driving Force GT, but Amazon shows that as back in stock in 2-4 weeks. Newegg had them for $129, but also OOS.

I was planning on trying iRacing with a 360 pad, as I'm quite familiar with using one of those in Forza 3, NFS Shift, etc, and then move to a steering wheel if I get hooked, and decide to get more serious about it.

p.s. Garion, dunno why you're waiting on a G27, you can pick one up on Ebay right now!

My problem with the Driving Force GT is that it's gone back up to $150 since the release of GT5. About a year ago the standard price was $100 ... and it even went on sale at one point for $60. It never occurred to me that the price of a peripheral would go up based on the release of a game, but apparently this happened when GT4 was released. Lesson learned.

NSMike wrote:

How did I live before digital distribution of old, cheap games?

MilkmanDanimal wrote:

You did live before digital distribution of old, cheap games. Now you just play games.

Yes, there is a shortage on wheels mainly because of GT5 and the difficulty with matching PD's release shenanigans.

I have been a subscriber for several years now. I was lucky enough to get a T500RS, some Fanatec CS pedals, and a Lightning SST shifter for my setup. I also have a Fanatec GT2 on order (for Forza) but who knows when that will ship. I think if you can find a G27 (as noted above) with little problem. But, I highly recommend going to a Fry's and dropping $600 on the T500 if you have the funds to support irresponsible spending:-)

iRacing has a lot going for it. The driving model is sublime. The default car you get now, the MX-5, is fantastic. It is a car you can really push around. The previous default road car was the Pontiac and I hated that thing. Laguna Seca and Lime Rock come with the default sub and are great courses.

My recommendation to you is to stick with the default sub tracks and cars until you actually get through a few of the "seasons." I still go back to those defaults even though I have spent several hundred dollars on cars and tracks and have a license level to support other series. There are VERY good drivers in iRacing and any step above the rookie level series will likely find you frustrated. So, spending time at the default rookie series in what they call the Nvidia cup this season, is what I recommend.

Many races you will find yourself with 2-4 second gaps in front and behind. This makes it seem like a solitaire affair at times. However, the times when you do get in a real duel for 10-12 laps make it all worth it. There is nothing in simracing that compares. The primary reason for this is the consequence of violating safety regulations. It is not worth it to cheap shot an opponent, or take an unrealistic risk diving in (you lose to many safety points), so these driver duels end up being a much better representation of real world racing.

Anyway, thanks for starting this thread and good luck. Let me know when you are in practicing and maybe I'll drop in. I think I still have your real name somewhere. It would be nice to get a big enough group of Goodjers during this free sub period where we could set up our own Goodjer race session.

Oh, and I'll take the referral bonus if no one else needs it.

Edit: I do not advise using a 360 pad with iRacing. A cheap wheel like the DFGT is 100 times better than a gamepad in iRacing.

...even though I have spent several hundred dollars on cars and tracks

*gulp*

What do you mean by this? I was under the impression subscription fee covered the available cars & tracks, but on the other hand i guess I can see it because there is no up front cost to the software.

I can also relate to the expensive add-ons, as I've spent that much on Flight Sim X add-ons (planes & scenery).

I figure for $12 for 3 months, it can't hurt to try. Btw, I thought "rookies" got about 8 cars & 8 tracks.

Oh, and I'll take the referral bonus if no one else needs it.

PM me your email address that you have on file with them, and I'll list you.

I'll send the PM, thanks. Frankly, I am not sure what comes with the default. I don't race the Ovals, so I don't count that. Cars and tracks beyond the default are each about $12-15.

As an example, the next series up from the default is the Jetta TDI. I think that series will require purchase of the car and about 5-6 tracks (so about $100). It is a fun series, but the transmission of a TDI takes a while to get used to; not a high revving engine (effective shifts take place around 3K).

Like I said, spend time with the MX-5 (I am assuming you want to road race versus oval). You could easily spend a real-world year perfecting the MX-5 on just the two road tracks for that series (Laguna Seca and Lime Rock). Then the next year with the Skip Barber (default with sub). Then the next year with the Jetta. I actually wish they would start a Class D series with more tracks for the MX-5. Once you get in to class C territory, then the Riley Prototype or Star Mazda are both great.

There are so many options available. But, you get the point. If you are a stupid OCD guy like me, you will spend way more money than you can actually use (much like a Steam pile). If you focus on the defaults with the sub, you will have plenty of fun for a reasonable amount.

I know many will chuckle at reasonable, but have you ever paid for a real track day and the maintenance following? Sure, real-world is much better but no real competitive racing and I spend about a grand every time I go out here to Laguna Seca. So for me and others, iRacing subs and the pricey peripherals are worth it.

I know many will chuckle at reasonable, but have you ever paid for a real track day and the maintenance following? Sure, real-world is much better but no real competitive racing and I spend about a grand every time I go out here to Laguna Seca. So for me and others, iRacing subs and the pricey peripherals are worth it.

One R compound tire for my car costs more than you're talking about, and you eat those up pretty fast

I know many will chuckle at reasonable, but have you ever paid for a real track day and the maintenance following? Sure, real-world is much better but no real competitive racing and I spend about a grand every time I go out here to Laguna Seca. So for me and others, iRacing subs and the pricey peripherals are worth it.

Well, I can relate. Some of the add-on aircraft for FSX can go as high as $80, perhaps more. Many are in the $20 to $40 range, but some of the jets that are highly realistic models are a lot more. Same with some of the specialty scenery (which would be akin to tracks in racing).

Well, I signed up. I have no choice but to use a gamepad till I get a wheel, but I won't be a detriment to others, even if that means I just stay in testing/practice mode. It will at least give me a feel for what the sim is like, and if I want to take it to the next level or not.

Wow, reading this thread makes me miss the old Papyrus racing games. (Now that I think about it I should have put those on my top 100 games list) I never did have a driving wheel back in the day but I did get good at playing using a joystick.

Yeah, cringe on keyboard but I understand the reasoning on the gamepad. Hell, I know people on here (glaring at ThinJ) who are very fast with a 360 pad. Get a wheel when you can, though; if only for the higher level of presence. It is a bitch to get a good wheel right now.

BTW and off-topic, Jeff, I know you are near Daytona but...are you going to Sebring 12-hour next month? If you get a chance, don't miss an ALMS race. ALMS is the best racing series in world outside Europe. I am going to Long Beach and (obviously) here but I am really eying a plane ticket to Orlando right now. They are bringing in the European Le Mans protos this year.

To be honest, I've never been to a Daytona race, and I live 8 miles from the track I want to go, but the ticket prices are crazy high, and the traffic over there is just ridiculous during that time. I'm not familiar with the ALMS.

As for wheels, I will get one eventually, assuming this iracing grabs me.

To be honest, I've never been to a Daytona race, and I live 8 miles from the track I want to go, but the ticket prices are crazy high, and the traffic over there is just ridiculous during that time. I'm not familiar with the ALMS.

As for wheels, I will get one eventually, assuming this iracing grabs me.

You guys are making me want to break out my Driving Force Pro that has been collecting dust for quite a while now.

I went on a sim racing binge about a year ago, I bought the wheel, RFactor, GTR Evolution, Live for Speed, and did a free month in iRacing. I can definitely say that iRacing was the most realistic, and thus the hardest to try and do. I did enjoy it all for a while, but I guess I couldn't stick with the realistic racing indefinitely. Plus having the wheel out all the time is a little cumbersome in the office.

I might pull it out again though. I remember I got an email a while back about renewing on iRacing and getting a month free or something. There was no way I was going to pay for the monthly fee and pay for extra cars and tracks though, I just wasn't into it enough.

I could always try a month again though. If not, LFS is always warm and inviting, and there are those bigass monster trucks you can race in Rfactor

While I love race driving, I'm not sure I can justify the constant costs of iRacing-- although it is very tempting.

I did manage to get the Logitech MOMO wheel off eBay for $50, and in really good condition, too. I've seen a few more around there for the same price-- if you don't mind getting the G25's predecessor. Mine feels like the feedback system may be a little loose, though-- Driving in F1 2010 I can feel (and hear) the actuators shaking, but their connection to the wheel is just loose enough that the wheel itself doesn't respond too much until I go into turns.

Any suggestions on how to pull a MOMO wheel apart and clean/re-spring it?

While I love race driving, I'm not sure I can justify the constant costs of iRacing-- although it is very tempting.

I did manage to get the Logitech MOMO wheel off eBay for $50, and in really good condition, too. I've seen a few more around there for the same price-- if you don't mind getting the G25's predecessor. Mine feels like the feedback system may be a little loose, though-- Driving in F1 2010 I can feel (and hear) the actuators shaking, but their connection to the wheel is just loose enough that the wheel itself doesn't respond too much until I go into turns.

Any suggestions on how to pull a MOMO wheel apart and clean/re-spring it?

I think this is actually a problem with the relatively large dead space in Logitech wheels. F12010 exacerbates this problem. Try ZERO dead space in the settings and see if that helps. I don't think anything is actually wrong with your wheel. It is a gear driven system rather than a belt like you find on the T500RS or a high-end Fanatec wheel like the GT3RS or GT2, so it does put out some clanky sounding noise.

Ok, I got some sim-time in with iRacing, and it didn't take long for me to be hooked. I only ran testing laps, but I was surprised by how much control I had with the 360-pad. Don't get me wrong, I want a wheel, but the 360 controller will suffice till I can get one.

I ran some laps at Lime Rock Park in the '34 Roadster, the Ford Spec Racer, and the MX-5 Roadster. I also tried the "Street Stock" out at Charlotte, and must be doing something wrong. It will shift up to 4th gear, but at 4th it whines and whines, like it wants to shift again, but will not upshift. Pretty sure those cars only go to 4th, so I'm not sure what's up there. I then took the MX5 Roadster on Charlotte, and found it very easy, like the car almost drove itself. Maybe I'm just that damn good, heh.

For what's it worth to other potential iRacing noobs, you get I think it's 5 cars to start, 3 of them having variations (rookie/Cup, etc), and 8 tracks (I didn't count the centripital circuit).

The sim is extremely well setup on the site, and they hold your hand through EVERY step of the setup and configuration with their guided setup thing, and also have a free driving school.

The driving and physics model is amazing. And another thing I love is their moderation system, with the automated 'safety rating', which must greatly cut down on people being absurdly aggressive. Really impressive so far.

He compares the wheel's quality with that of the G25, and says the weak spot is the cheapish pedals, but says 'they work' and are at least passable. In the conclusion he mentions pairing this wheel with some high end pedals would be a fantastic combo. So I can always get better pedals later, if I wanted.

The video review is given from the standpoint of PC racing, so he's very thorough in testing with sims like rFactor and Live For Speed.

He compares the wheel's quality with that of the G25, and says the weak spot is the cheapish pedals, but says 'they work' and are at least passable. In the conclusion he mentions pairing this wheel with some high end pedals would be a fantastic combo. So I can always get better pedals later, if I wanted.

Yep, pairing the ClubSports with the DFGT might not be half bad. But, I can't begin to tell you how bad the DFGT pedals suck. And to me, pedals are everything in a real sim.

Static, yeah, I know the pedals are going to be cheap. But I think for me, the initial $150 investment is more realistic for me starting out. And hey, it's got to be better than a gamepad

I can always grab those Fanatec clubsport pedals later, that would be a fun upgrade.

Logi has the DFGT in stock, ready to ship, but I'm still sitting on this for a bit to think it over. There is NO racing hardware to be found in retail -- fu**ing GT5!!

And btw, the Ford Spec Racer is one hard car to drive! I did find some great links to tuning in the iRacing forum, including this excellent guide for tuning the FSR.

edit: I think I just got really lucky. I got the Driving Force GT from a "top-rated seller" on Ebay for $119 shipped, and the item condition was listed as "new". If it works out, and this item is as described, then I saved $40 off the price of getting it from Logitech direct (they were going to charge me sales tax).