GLOCK Armorer; Northern Colorado

There are a bunch of us around but I thought I'd throw my name out there if you need some help w/ your GLOCK. Most qustions/issues can be solved here or on www.GlockTalk.com but I'll do anything I can to help.

I'm in the Greeley area but I work some wierd hours/days off. If anyone needs anything or you need a part quick (I keep a FEW small parts on hand) let me know.

PM works best. If you need something, PM me and I'll give you my email.

Is the clicky/ratchty trigger common? Will the .25 cent fix do the trick?

I'm starting to hear this more and more, especially from people who have never shot a GLOCK before (or at least recently) or those who expect a custom 1911-type pull from the GLCOKs. I think it's probably just the normal GLOCK trigger which, I'll give you, can definitely feel "plasticy" or "tinney" if you're not used to it.

However, there should be no "ratcheting" action in the trigger as that could lead to unexpected discharge.

Make sure the gun is clean and the connector/trigger bar interface has a drop of oil in it (an odd "task" for the new-to-GLOCK shooter). Undercleaned or underoiled or poorly maintained trigger components can cause a spongey or springy type initial take up in the trigger.

Every GLOCK trigger I've seen that has been clean, up to date parts and has been maintained per GI's recommendations has been smooth (albeit not like a Kimber, etc.). With about 15 minutes of work, the GLOCK factory parts are capable of an extremely smooth, reliable and predictable trigger pull.

I'm starting to hear this more and more, especially from people who have never shot a GLOCK before (or at least recently) or those who expect a custom 1911-type pull from the GLCOKs. I think it's probably just the normal GLOCK trigger which, I'll give you, can definitely feel "plasticy" or "tinney" if you're not used to it.

However, there should be no "ratcheting" action in the trigger as that could lead to unexpected discharge.

Make sure the gun is clean and the connector/trigger bar interface has a drop of oil in it (an odd "task" for the new-to-GLOCK shooter). Undercleaned or underoiled or poorly maintained trigger components can cause a spongey or springy type initial take up in the trigger.

Every GLOCK trigger I've seen that has been clean, up to date parts and has been maintained per GI's recommendations has been smooth (albeit not like a Kimber, etc.). With about 15 minutes of work, the GLOCK factory parts are capable of an extremely smooth, reliable and predictable trigger pull.

Baldy, THX.

Thanks.

The gun I felt this on was new in the store. Perhaps it had no oil. Donno.

EDIT: I came across this....

The Glock trigger bar is stamped out piece of metal. When metal is stamped, there tend to be some irregularities on the critical surfaces that will give the trigger a choppy pull. You can add to your shooting performance by giving yourself the best possible trigger pull. Performed by head armorer.

The gun I felt this on was new in the store. Perhaps it had no oil. Donno.

EDIT: I came across this....

Both are true. The pistol may have been sitting for awhile. I doubt there was anything "wrong" w/ it. The connector/trigger bar interface is the most crucial lube point in the GLOCK platform.

Also true is the qoute. Most of the "critical" trigger components are stamped steel and there are, from time to time, some "irregularities". These are usually worked out after a few range trips (break in). In the rare cases that these anomolies are not ironed out, or where the shootoer would like an even smoother pull, there are some options.

P.S. There are several GLCOK armoroers around here. Before I did my own work, I used Pat of PM Custom Pistols in Loveland (ph. bbok). He specializes in 1911's but is knowledgabe and more than competent with GLOCKs. He's in Loveland and the phone book.

I have a question. It seems one of the favorite combinations for some Glock owners is the NY1 Spring with a 3.5 lbs. Connector. The Armorers Manual states that the 3.5 lbs. Connector should not be used with the NY Springs. Does anybody know what the reason is behind this?

I have a question...The Armorers Manual states that the 3.5 lbs. Connector should not be used with the NY Springs. Does anybody know what the reason is behind this?

Actually, you're PARTIALLY correct:
GLOCK Armorer's Manual, p27:"Either (NY) spring should be installed only with the 5 lb. (now, the 5.5lb) connector, neither should be installed with the 8lb. connector."
-->Context: remember as far as GLOCK is concerned, the the 3.5lb ("-") connector is not available directly to the general public and it has to be ordered on LE letterhead, with the exception of the G34/35 competition guns, in which the "-" connector comes stock.

Reason: The "heavier" 8lb connector w/ the heavier springs causes the trigger to stack hard (extremely heavy pull) and can result in unexpexted and inconistant trigger pull.

There are no issues using the "-" connector with the NY triggers and, as you alluded to, many shooters actually prefer this set-up.
The lighter connector will decrease the felt pull weight while the heavier NY spring gives a firmer reset; the changes are subtle but some prefer these slightly different trigger characteristics.

Personally, I like the stock trigger w/ the $0.25 trigger job. It gives me a smooth, consistant pull and the stock reset, which I am accustomed to. (it's all about personal preference.)

but now im wishing i bought the .40 caliber one, i was wondering, if im able to buy a new barrell for the .40 caliber and put it into my glock 17 and get a mag that will hold .40 caliber bullets, will this work or will other stuff need to be changed