What do you think about this video?

kelhawk1: If you use the starter bump technique make absolutely certain that the
breaker handle is square with the socket.﻿

Bukake Sake: Got r' did. Used a 3/8 extension to lock keep the pulley from moving. After
I quit bending screw drivers, and used the extension the bolt came out
pretty easy. My battery didn't have enough juice for the starter trick,
and my impact driver was too big to fit in front of the engine. Thanks a
lot WheeliePete! Oh yeah, I drove almost 2,000 miles with a broken chain
guide, and my bolts that hold the guide against the block were shaven down
quite a bit. Tomorrow I have to figure out how to get one of them out.﻿

TheBeautifulme1985: What I did for my honda crank pulley bolt was got a new 17mm impact socket
and a 3 feet heavy pole and put my weight and my strong arms in it and
broke that bolt loose in 2 mins spray it down with w d 40 if you keep
puting your weight on it dont worry it will break soon hope this help
someone﻿

TheBeautifulme1985: The impact gun I brought didnot help me none I had to put my back into it
get someone to jam the breaks and put that impact socket on that breaker
bar and a heavy 3 foot pole and it will break my arms are stronger than any
impact gun and put your weight on it to ﻿

sleekitwan: You have a great, warm, delivery demeanour, makes it easy to listen to.
Some people are plain hard on the senses. The assortment of methods is
useful - otherwise I have to buy a special toblerone-shaped thing with a
slot up towards one apex, and teeth in it about 4, occupying the flat
opposite this apex. I have never bought the same car twice (keep them too
long) so it's not just the irritating cost, it's the ordering-in time and
waiting for the thing, and every cambelt kit says these toblerone bits are
optional - way bad since I only find that out now I got the wife's Renault
in bits...!﻿

Kyle Widman: Great video, however when I went to take mine off on my 20r, it was already
gone! Haha. So I'm mainly looking at this for re-torquing cause it's been
some years since I did this on my 22r. Now I need a new bolt and
woodruff... Thankfully the crank, and pulley keyways weren't damaged.﻿

ryann2k1: the crankshaft pulley of my car mitsubishi magna 1999 is a bit different,
nothing i can insert per your video to hold the pulley from moving. i
cannot crank the car anymore as I have taken apart the fuel rail, the
intake manifold and the distributor. any other idea to loosen the
crankshaft pulley bolt without using impact gun tool?﻿

John Northrup: I want to say thank you Pete!
I bought an expensive 20v Lithium Impact gun for this job and many others.
Long story short, the gun had 0 effect on that bolt, lol! (~350ft-lbs tq)
So I had recalled your video, and was saved by a Dodge exhaust stud with
the nut still on. (I miss you Shelby Daytona!) Using torch heat and your
jam method, it's off now, with only slight bending of the dust cover. Now
moving on to removing the VC and timing cover, carefully.﻿

Daren Sefcik: Awesome...! The drift method worked perfect and it did not damage my dust
cover...thanks so much..!!﻿

ToyotaLandCruiser: Heat from a torch if u got one is sorta the same as the last one good
tricks thanks﻿

Louden Swain: Thanks for the help. I tried to bump the starter and that was a no go, so I
resorted to the wedge method. My '84 has the larger holes in the balancer.
A 1/2" drive extension bar that was 5" long worked great for a wedge. I
also removed the battery which gave me more room. It allowed me to hang
from the 4 foot long cheater bar. Trying to break it loose from underneath
the truck I just couldn't get enough leverage. ﻿

ethrty320i: watched this video for a crank bolt on Toyora 2E engine, really didnt want
to use the starter bump method, but decided to in the end, and definately
helped loosen it up. and its off now, I dont have an impact/rattle gun so
thanks﻿

Tony Cha: What about near 1000 ft lbs of torque. My Lexus is about there. So hard to
find 3/4 sockets in stores. Got a 1000 ft lbs impact wrench didn't work was
leaking so I got a new one about to try again. Tap it, pb blast soaked it,
broke a 1/2 drive breaker bar and a 3/4 to 1/2 impact adapter to use a 22mm
1/2 socket. Broke a chain wrench. Crank bolt from hell. Idiot previous
mechanic must have use weld tite instead of lock tite and used a 1400 ft
lbs impact to tighten it.﻿

Alexis Betancourt: Tks good video
﻿

coltcomphbar: Why could you not just use the bolt you welded the socket? It would just
stick out a little. Nut it wouldn't hurt anything﻿

hp11208: i woulda just use an air gun or set up the a breaker bar and start the
engine.

degrande707: Snap-On MG725 Impact Gun.... ;) Hasn't failed me yet.

steviebm6: Sound like very great methods. I will have to try a few today. I have a
Cressida with a very stubborn bolt. Thanks for the video

WheeliePete: @1tonyota hahaha, man I didn't even pick up on that...I put a nail through
my foot today so I'm still a little loopy on pain meds. lol...

Jesse Fullerton: If your not pulling the head but already have the valve cover off, i have
always stuck a long 3/8's extenstion through the holes in the timing chain
cam gear and used a long ass breaker bar... always worked for me

Josellyn Moreno: Very detailed videos. Thanks!

griffintready: what about pulling the oil seal is there any special techniques that u have
for that

EnJay F: Hi. My daughter has a 1993 2wd Hilux cab chassis with 2.8 diesel 3L motor.
I'm replacing the water pump but cant get the bottom pulley off to remove
the timing belt cover so that I can get to the water pump. I have the
radiator out and all the belts off already. How do I remove the bottom
pulley off so that I can remove the timing belt cover? Cheers

cartoonist1975: Thank You for taking your time and making this video. I do have a 22re
inside a 85 Celica so this is great !

serchmarc: code of that air filter?k&n?

Mechanic1307: I did a lot of reading before trying the 'scary' starter bump method.
Bungeed the breaker bar to the passenger side frame member, disconnected
the coil wire, and just Barely tapped the starter. The bolt broke loose
with a pop, no damage to anything (including the tools). Just enough to
break the torque. Thinking of making a crank holder tool by welding up an
old air conditioner pulley to about 14" of 3/4" round stock. I'll bolt it
to the balancer with 4- grade 8 bolts.

hermanbrown13457: Mine is what i call a stacked pulley.i have power steering on mine. Power
steering is the front. A/c is the middle. And alternator is the last.

1tonyota: @WheeliePete i got it man but in the video u told us to ask.lols

MrJrakk: Actually had it bust a breaker bar doing that starter bump once lol

Michael Brand: What pulley puller did you use? I'm having trouble finding a puller that'll
fit the 22re pulley for the crankshaft

WheeliePete: The 5th gear/hard brake method only works if your clutch and pressure plate
are in VERY good shape. Other wise, you'll just just slip the clutch on the
flywheel.

WheeliePete: @hp11208 Yeah, but that doesn't always work...trust me. And for sure don't
work on a dead engine. ;-) Most air guns won't even touch that bolt when it
gets frozen. Plus, if you are trying to get that thing out when it's in the
truck there isn't enough room to get a big enough air gun in there with the
radiator in the way.

aznazguy: @WheeliePete Thanks Pete, but as I mentioned it is an automatic (torque
plate not flywheel) so I can't use the high gear/brake method to hold the
crank fixed. Not sure what to do. Might have to rent/borrow/buy/fab a
pulley holding tool?

Christopher Ladd: I have a 90 Toyota Pickup with the 22R and I have the famous oil leak where
the head meets the timing cover so torn it down today and guess what? Can't
get the Crank bolt out. The motor is still in the truck. I tried driving
the 5/16 punch in and I bent it and the bolt wouldn't give. I even tried
the bump start deal and the bolt still wouldn't break so I'm lost.

MagicAyrtonforever: Also on engines with no keyway or woodruff.. you will freak your valves up
if the pistons clash as crank goes the other way.

theroadkilledchicken: I pulled one off yesterday and it took 800+ ft. lbs. to break it loose:(

Michael Elliott: well couple things come to mind if a good 1/2" drive impact gun does not
do the job, get a bigger gun say a IR model 261 3/4" drive impact
gun(14.5lbs) they are compact and MEAN!! 1100(pounds per foot) of nut
busting torque. I use this model all the time at my shop for stubborn bolts
and if it gets really nasty, I bust out the Eagle Industries 1-1/2" Square
Drive Air Impact Gun 3500(pounds per foot) and this dude is heavy about
50lbs and that does the job (most of the time)

WheeliePete: Yeah, I'm not a huge fan of the starter bump method. that's a pretty
massive bolt in the 22R series to shear off though. Good point though. I
can't imagine what a pain in the ass it must have been to get that broken
one out of there.

WheeliePete: I broke a cam sprocket once doing it that way. They are a lot thinner
material than the crankshaft pulley. You break the cam sprocket and you
have to replace the whole timing system because the chain, cam sprocket,
and crank sprocket all wear together, you can't just replace one piece of
the system... Using the cam sprocket to hold the crank still will work, but
you just have this risk of making the job a LOT bigger...

giantAsFan: I have a 95 Tacoma 2.4 I need help replacing the motor mounts & trans mount
please help, searched all around no VIDs ons this problem

WheeliePete: @griffintready I actually just remove the entire oil pump body to replace
the front main oil seal. It's a lot easier to remove the seal and to
install it if the oil pump (in which the front main seal is located) if
you're not having to work around the crankshaft sticking out through the
middle of the seal.

Christopher Ladd: Thanks, one step ahead of you. Meant to post back last night that I finally
got it out. I heated the heck out of it and I used a powerful jumper box
hooked to the batt to give it some extra power when I bumped the starter
over and the bolt broke loose. Thanks for this video by the way.

WheeliePete: Yes the front pulley is bolted to the other two.

hermanbrown13457: The last one is the one that rattles. ((Alternator)).

TrueBlueEG8: heating it could help a little, but it i was to advise on any method, it
would be ,remove the starter, or a flywheel cover, and lock the flywheel, i
dont like the idea of using the oil pump body as the stopper for a bolt
that tight.

Charli Doan: Panama sell this Japanese engine only 30,000 mile from Tokyo very
cheap.$500-$800 US dollars.

aznazguy: Man I just went through this on a 22R I had pulled. I bought a SnapOn
impact that didn't work. I tried bolting the starter to it to crank it with
the motor on the ground, nope. I ran the starter off 24 volts with two
batteries but no dice. Finally took a piece of perforated sheet metal
"stereo strap" material, and bolted the torque plate (automatic) to the
block and a breaker got it off with relative ease. Now how to torque it
with the motor in place?

01sircharles: Why not use heat w/out welding bolt head to socket.? I'm just getting ready
to do head gasket on my truck and looking for some time saving tips. I've
got an impact that will twist wheels studs off.( I think 750 lbs) Hard to
imagine that would not be enough. It's only supposed to be 115 lbs. right?