Friday, April 8, 2011

CANNELÉS BORDELAIS - LAROUSSE CUISINE BOOK REVIEW

Book Review - Critique De Livre

I don't know if it's the same for you, but sometimes there are specialities I dream of making, yet for no apparent reason I never get to test them as fast as I wish. For example I have been dreaming of tasting and baking "Cannelés Bordelais" since the day I started blogging in 2005. I have been drooling over that French cake for long and every time I saw a post on that subject I promised myself to make them, but somehow never got to it (until lately). Finding the correct mold already took me a couple of years (Switzerland isn't a great place for amateur bakers) and then I needed a few months to finally get cracking. Well, I am known for being a big procrasitinator. I guess that is my problem... /// Je ne sais pas si vous êtes comme moi, mais beaucoup de fois je vois une spécialité que je désire tester et il me faut un certain temps avant de mettre la main à la pâte. Par example, ça fait un bon bout de temps (depuis que j'ai commencé à bloguer en 2005) que je salive à l'idée de faire des "Cannelés Bordelais" et que je me promets d'en préparer chaque fois que j'en vois sur vos blogs. Pourtant jusqu'à aujourd'hui je n'ai pas réussi à en confectionner. Il m'a déjà fallu plusieurs année pour dénicher le moule (en Suisse on est pas gâté lorsqu'il est question de matériel de cuisine), puis encore quelques mois avant de finalement me décider sauter le pas. Je suis une vraie procrastinatrice et je pense que c'est ça mon problème...

According to the legend, this treat dates back to the 17th century and was invented by nuns of the convent of The Annonciades (today, nuns of the convent of Mercy) in Bordeaux. Back then cannelés were called "canelas" or "canelons", were long thin cakes wound around a stick ("canne" in french, hence the name) and fried in lard. Apparently they are very closely linked to the making of red wine. This beverage was filtered through whipped egg whites and as the personnel of the castle did not know what to do with the leftover egg yolks, they donated them the cloister.

This marvelous pastry has gone through ups and downs since the day it was invented. Its origin is still unclear and the word's ethymology is very enigmatic. The name "Can(n)elé" (pronounced "kah-nuh-leh" and meaning "fluted") is very recent. In 1970 it does not appear in the “Guide Gourmand de la France” by Gault and Millau and it is only when, in 1985, the brotherhood of the Canelé of Bordeaux sees the day of light that the name becomes a collective brand. Ten years later, this goodie is once again very popular and many manufactures are built (about 1400) in Aquitaine and Gironde. Today this wonder of the French culinary patrimony is so fashionable and beloved that it can be found in numerous bakeries in France and around the world (it can even be bought at Bordeaux's McDonalds -*ugh*).

When it comes to cannelés there are a lot of secrets surrounding them, but one thing is for sure, there is absolutely no mystery to why those unique confections meet such a success. It is absolutely impossible to doubt their deliciousness. Theyare just irrefutably fantastic and irresistible.Made with a revamped crêpe batter, "Cannelés Bordelais" are a bit like a cross between a pancake, waffle, pudding, popovers and clafoutis. Their moist, spongy and custardy insides, crisp, crusty, chewy and caramelized outsides as well as amazing flavor redolent of vanilla and rum will enchant your tastebuds and conquer your heart. This delicacy is so exquisite that you'll be incapable of forgetting it and will bake them on a regular basis.

Oh, why did it take me so long to discover those wonderful babies? When I think that I have wasted so many years dawdling, it makes me rip my hair out in utter desperation. So, please do me a favor, don't be stupid like me and postpone the sampling of "Cannelés Bordelais" (or anything else for that effect). Run into your kitchen and make the immediately!

Method:1 . Put the milk in a small pan. Add the split and scraped vanilla pod (or the vanilla paste). Bring to the boil, remove from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes.2 . In a medium bowl, cream the butter together with the sugar.3 . Add the egg and mix well (use a whisk).4. Incorporate the rum, then the flour and salt. Whisk well (there should be no lumps left).5. Slowly pour the warm milk into the mixture while mixing gently.6. Put the batter in the fridge (in a closed recipient) for 12 hours minumum.

7. The next day, preheat the oven to 210° C (410 ° C).

8. Pour the batter into the cannelé compartments about 3/4 of the way.9. Bake for about 1 hour (or 45 minutes if you are using the mini molds).10 . Once you've removed the cannelés from the oven, proceed to unmoold. Let cool on a wire rack.Remarks:I recommend you to use a traditional metal cannelé pan (no silicone).If you don't have a cannelé pan then you can use a popover pan.Cannelés are ready when they are crusty and looking caramelized as well as dark on the outside.Eat rapidly. They are best when eaten fresh and still a little warm.

Serving suggestions:Serve for dessert with some whipped cream and a fruit salad or alone for breakfast or teatime.

Oooo, your canalles look wonderful! I've been wanting to get a pan for a long time too... glad you mentioned that you liked metal better than silicone because I was holding out until I found a silicone mold - now I'll forget about that!

I do that all the time--think of things I want to try cooking or baking and then put it off for years. I've still never attempted a croquembouche. But, I'm so glad you got around to trying canneles. They look lovely!

I remember making this, and it was so painful to try to un mold it. I used metal cannelle molds, and brushed with lots of butter, yet still difficult. I read that you must layer the mold with bee's wax to avoid it stick to the mold, and also to get the right dark color. So, what's your secret ? I want to make this immediately. Thanks Rosa.

Hi! I've been following your blog for a bit, I love your style and your recipes. Your cannelés look really scrumptious! I was complaining yesterday because they didn't have the molds at the store. I had to resort to making madeleines instead. Then I found my old molds (lost before I could even use them) this morning. The batter is in the fridge until tomorrow, I really hope they turn out half as perfect as yours look!

Wow, this sounds wonderful..I don't think I've ever heard about this before but it truly looks and sounds amazing..love the filling..look so yummy! Thanks for sharing, Rosa!Enjoy your weekend..Take care!

Rosa,I am like you, I wait for ever to make something and then end up forgetting sometimes. I have seen these cakes in a lot of places and I thought they were more like cakes, I didn't expect the interior to be like that. They look delicious.

Hi Rosa, You can probably guess that I look at a lot of blog posts because I enjoy cooking, food and reading what my favorite bloggers have to say about what they cook and every subject that interests them. So, considering that I want you to know that your site is one of my favorites and this is one of my all time favorites of all your posts. I love your blog:-)

Well, I had been to every pastry shop in Paris and eaten everything or so I thought but when I started seeing cannelés in book and magazines like ELLE table, I realized I had never even tasted them! Your description are so convincing and the photos so exquisite, I need to make them or buy them; soon

WOW I can't believe you just posted a Canneles recipe...I tried them for the first time yesterday before I saw this post...silly me...I was intrigued by a recipe that said to coat the molds with beeswax...of which I have a decent amount...so I tried it and ended up with my teeth coated for hours afterwards...2nd lot NO WAX..they were divine...I will try your recipe too though as I have never had a real cannele so am not sure if mine are correct or no...also I replaced the rum with maple syrup and it was a very nice flavour...

I don't feel so strange anymore now that you too share the same mantra of dream-about-but-never-got-around ;) Cannelés is definitely one of them for me! For me the first step is probably getting around to get a copper Cannelés pan!

I've been wanting to make these for soooo long. The other day I was in a baking shop that sold silicone cannelé moulds but a friend of mine advised me against getting it and I'm glad I listened to her. Will have to scout out a metal one instead. Lucky you getting such a fabulous book to review and congrats on your finished results - gorgeous!

Rosa, I adore Cennelés bordelais yet I have never made them either; I always thought they must be so difficult to make! Yours are just fabulously perfect, both inside and out and if it is even partly because of this book then I am going to buy it. Stunning!

It is so delicious. I only make that kind of traditional and sweet cannelés, but I found some recipes of salty ones which I noted the recipes to test them when I will have time.But I note the title of the book you mentionned here : what amasing a full book dedicated to cannelés.Bises

I have so many "some day recipes" Rosa, I probably couldn't get to each and every one, EVER!

Your little bundles are exquisite. I adore the garnish of trivia as I knew nothing about their history. I do, however, know they are all the deliciousness you describe and as humble to the eye as your choices in flowers.

My Aunt from Bordeaux used to make these all the time when she came visiting in Italy during our family get togethers. I do remember eating them, however, sadly, I had not paid attention on how she baked them. I also don't remember the addition of liquor. They were delicious.

This recipe of yours sounds like it needs to go on my wish list of baked dreams ;o)