When it’s August and produce is this sweet and this fragrant, the last thing Adam Rapoport wants to do in the kitchen is cook.

There are more than 40 recipes in this issue of Bon Appétit. Chances are, I won’t cook a single one of them.

I mean, no disrespect to the BA Test Kitchen, but it’s August. It’s that one month when everything at the market is so lush, so fruitastically fresh that all you need is a box of sea salt, a bottle of quality olive oil, and the good sense not to mess with anything too much.

You might say I’m being lazy, but isn’t that what summer is about? Not cranking up the oven, not stressing out about what to cook to impress your guests?

Last August, my wife and I settled into a rental house on the North Fork of Long Island. The North Fork is kind of like its across-the-way neighbor the Hamptons, except there’s no Jay and Beyoncé and no mega-mansions. Just lots of farms, rocky bay-side beaches, and some of the best farmstands in America.

Those stands are part of why we’re there again this summer. We usually shop that day for that night. We might pull off the road to check out what’s good at KK’s, which is basically a few tables under a shade tree. And we always stop by Sang Lee Farms, a full-fledged farm with a shop that sells every imaginable variety of produce, plus house-made sauces, dips, and more. By August, its tomato bins make you think of a penny-candy store. Crate after crate brims with cherry, pear, and grape tomatoes of every hue. And then there are all the meaty heirlooms, bursting with juice and flavor.

I’ll grab some Sun Golds and Green Zebras and a handful of the Great Whites, the kind of mix that chef Yotam Ottolenghi uses for his tomato salad on the cover. And while I might take inspiration from it (I do like the notion of roasted lemon in the salad), I’ll likely just chop up a bunch of tomatoes and add some olive oil, salt, and herbs. After all, when it’s August and produce is this sweet and this fragrant, the last thing I want to do in the kitchen is get clever. I’ve got all fall and winter to do that.

My Peak-Season Tomato Salad

Buy a bunch of different kinds of tomatoes—every size, shape, and color. All of them should be super ripe.