Wednesday, July 26, 2017

Culinary News Summer 2017

BY BRYAN LAVERY

The Ontario Liberal government’s recent announcement of a
plan to increase the minimum wage to $15 an hour — a 32% hike — in the next 18
months has created grave concerns for many small business owners, particularly
in the labour-intensive hospitality industry. A government-commissioned report
made 173 recommendations aimed at creating better workplaces with decent
working conditions. But the average Ontario restaurant operator exists on a
pre-tax profit margin of 3.4% of sales, which according to Statscan is the
lowest in Canada.

The restaurant business is a challenging way of life, and
even the most dedicated and talented professionals are often ill-equipped to
withstand dramatic turns in the economy. It takes more than tenacious
determination and open-minded optimism to succeed in this field, one known for
its high turnover and burn-out rate. The new laws will affect how restaurants
are staffed and shifts are scheduled. Some pundits suggest the wage hike will
require menu prices to increase by 20%.

London Training Centre’s Culinary Pre-Apprentice­ship
students start 8-week placements with restaurants and event venues the first
week of July. The Local Food Skills Program is growing food ecologically again
this year on a new property west of London. The program continues throughout
the summer and fall with a 3-week program every month. LTC is currently working
on a September schedule for cooking classes and culinary fundamentals such as
bread baking, charcuterie, curing/smoking etc. There will be evening and
weekend class options. londontraining.on.ca

The Growing Chefs! Ontario team is excited
to welcome you into their new Growing Chefs Headquarters. They have worked hard
to transform the former Auberge du Petit Prince restaurant into an innovative
Food Education Centre. It is a venue where Londoners, young and old, can get
excited about growing, cooking, sharing, and celebrating delicious healthy food
together. growingchefsontario.ca

David’s Bistro, elegantly tucked into a fine Richmond
Street heritage building and one of downtown London’s culinary landmarks, is
closing from July 1 to August 15 to upgrade the building after a fire caused
smoke and water damage in the adjacent premises. davidsbistro.ca

Chef Angela Murphy of Restaurant
Ninety One at Windermere Manor will launch new summer menus on July
12. The staff at Windermere Manor will be marching in the Pride parade on July
30th and handing out flyers for a “Pride On” event. In order to extend Pride
London Festival celebrations there will be a semi-formal gala event at Windermere
Manor on August 4, open to the public. Tickets are $20 until July 1, increasing
to $25, then $30 at the door. restaurantninetyone.ca

North Moore Catering/River Room owner/proprietor
Jess Jazey-Spoelstra and chef Andrew Wolwowicz’s new venture, Craft Farmacy, is
now slated to open in early September at 449 Wharncliffe Road South. It will
feature local craft beer, an oyster bar, rustic-style food, sharing plates,
great wines and fabulous house cocktails. Tyler Weatherall is the new sous chef
at the River Room. northmoore.ca/theriverroom/

The Wolfe brothers of Wolfe of Wortley and The
Early Bird plan to open Mexican-inspired Los Lobos in
the former Talbot St. Whisky House space in early August. The menu will show
their love for tacos and other Mexican classics, with the focus at the bar
being on tequila, mezcal and bourbon.

The Squire Pub and Grill, located in the Art Deco
former bank building at Dundas and Talbot, is a welcoming, American-style pub
and grill. It features good food and great deals through the week. It’s in
close proximity to Covent Garden Market and perfect for before and after events
at Budweiser Gardens — or to grab a pint and a snack. Pub Stumpers Trivia
League begins in September. Open for lunch, dinner and late nights daily.
www.squirepubandgrill.ca

The Root Cellar offers from-scratch seasonal
menus, a funky reclaimed interior, and a friendly, knowledgeable staff in Old
East Village. They possess a strong commitment to sourcing ingredients from the
local organic farming community through their partners at On The Move
Organics. Recently opened is a second-floor, 55-seat, renovated special
events space, Taproot. Hosting everything from concerts and
workshops to board meetings and private dinners, Taproot might just be the
fresh event space you’re looking for. rootcellarorganic.ca

SO INVITING is the new Chinese bakery across
from the Farmers’ Market at Western Fair, offering a variety of savoury
hand-made dumplings (pot stickers) and a selection of not-too-sweet baking. The
savoury bean paste cookies are a big hit. There are plenty of fresh and
delicious goodness on the shelves and in the freezer for take away.

The McVegan’s food truck, owned by Globally
Local, focusses on vegan options at festivals. Try the McInnes Burger — a take
on the Big Mac — or their BBQ sandwich made from jackfruit and served with
creamy coleslaw. One of our favourite food trailers is the organic,
Mexican-inspired ivanopoblano on Oxford St. east of Quebec St.

Culinary entrepreneur Dave Cook has
opened The Pickle Social Club — a performance and event venue
— at 874 Dundas St., directly across from the Farmers’ & Artisans’
Market at Western Fair. The space is for rent on a short-term basis, from a
few hours to a few days in a row, for purposes such as a baby shower, a photo
shoot, a work retreat, a pop-up retail shop, or more. picklesocialclub.com

Ian Kennard’s Willie’s Catering & Take-out recently
joined businesses like Dave Cook’s Fire Roasted Coffee, Heather
Pirsky’s Naturally Vegan, Kim Banma’s gluten-free bakery Urban
Oven, David Glen’s Glen Farms Herbs & Preserves and The
Village Table (non-profit Meals on Wheels) at the London Food
Incubator. Joining these start-ups is Yam Gurung of Momo’s at the
Market, who is opening a satellite location soon. Anchoring the space is
the Old East Village Grocer, an independent grocery store offering
healthy and affordable food products while doubling as a retail training space
for people with disabilities.

The Bicycle Café opened at 355 Clarence St. near
King. Owner Ben Cowie is serving Rosso Coffee, a small coffee
roaster in Calgary that works directly with growers to create new and exciting
taste profiles. The café part of the business is upfront of the shop and an
espresso machine is slated to arrive from Italy soon. Out back a bicycle shop
focusses on sales and service for urban cycling. londonbicyclecafe.com

In downtown London, Five Fortune Culture Restaurant at
the corner of Dundas and Richmond is part of the groundswell of restaurants
offering an authentic dining experience. This is not the typical
Chinese-Canadian restaurant serving Anglo-genres conceived by old-style
Cantonese immigrants who adapted traditional recipes to suit local tastes and
available ingredients. The cuisine as prepared by owner Jie Liang and Wenbei is
“Pure Chinese” Yunnan with Sichuan and Guizhou influences.

Che Restobar is taking a summer siesta and is
closed for regular dining. It will be available for private events and
catering. Check out Facebook and Twitter for updates. Visit Che Restobar at
Sunfest in Victoria Park from July 6–9.

Tea sommelier and nutritionist Michelle PierceHamilton and
her business partner Yixing Tang opened The Tea Lounge in
a small charming house on Piccadilly Street east of Richmond. They recently
launched a menu of cold drinks, iced teas and vegan-friendly lattes. Matcha,
London Fog and cinnamon-orange spiced tea lattes are available hot or iced.
There is afternoon tea service one Sunday per month. Book a sitting at the
monthly Tea Flight Nights to experience a comparative tasting. A small in-house
scratch menu and baked goods and healthful snacks from Petit Paris
Crêperie & Pâtisserie, Boombox Bakeshop and Bliss
Specialty Foods add to the experience. tealoungelondon.com

Idlewyld Inn & Spa’s features a locally-inspired
menu of contemporary and traditional favourites and decadent desserts,
complemented by a selection of award-winning wines, and draughts and ales on
tap. Enjoy some al fresco dining on the gracious front porch, or escape to
Idlewyld’s hidden garden courtyard. Back by popular demand, Chef Trevor
Stephens is master of the grill. Summer BBQ nights are held Wednesdays
& Thursdays. idlewyld.com

The Church Key Bistro-Pub follows in the
British-inspired tradition of contemporary food executed with panache and
attention to detail. Chef Michael Anglestad’s from-scratch kitchen
features seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. Owners Peter and Vanessa
Willis recently celebrated the eighth anniversary of this downtown
landmark that features one of London’s top patio dining experiences.
thechurchkey.ca

Stratford

Wanting to sharpen your kitchen skills, or just your knives?
For the first time in its 34-year history Stratford Chefs School is
offering spring and summer cooking classes and learning experiences for the
dedicated home cook. There is something for all skill levels, whether you want
to cook the perfect burger or ferment vegetables.
www.smore.com/v8qr5-open-kitchen-classes?ref=email

The Mill Stone Restaurant & Bar features a
seasonal menu with small plates of globally-inspired flavours and
locally-sourced ingredients that focus on light and healthy fare. Be sure to
try the signature back ribs from Perth Pork Products Ltd. The restaurant
features cocktails on tap and in bottles, homemade bitters, locally-brewed beer
on tap, and a varied bottle list. There is a focus on Canadian wines. There is
also a small but charming street-side patio. themillstone.ca

SAV Eatery + Smokehouse is a “proper Southern
diner smokehouse” with 70 seats on the main floor and additional seating for
events and private dining on the lower level. It is authentic Lowcountry
cuisine, associated with South Carolina and the Georgia coast. The menu features
smoked foods and traditional Savannah and Charleston fare, like Shrimp &
Grits. Everything from the ribs and BBQ sauces to the breads and buns is made
in-house. Pork is sourced from local Tamworth herds and the butchery is done by
chef/owner Angie Mohr. The custom-built smoker is completely
wood-fired and can hold 350 pounds of meat at a time. Expected opening in July.

An era comes to an end! Stratford will lose one of its
iconic dining landmarks at the close of this year’s Stratford Festival.
Owner Jim Morris is retiring and Rundles will
be closing for good in September. Rundles made its name with high-end
contemporary French cuisine, artfully plated, with a worldly influence. The
restaurant is synonymous with classicism and a refined level of wine sophistication. Neil
Baxter has been chef de cuisine at Rundles since 1981. The restaurant
will have its last dinner service on September 23. rundlesrestaurant.com

Mercer Kitchen/Beer Hall/Hotel is expanding by
rebranding the Baden location as Mercer Mercato, bringing the
quality and value that it has come to stand for to a whole new market, and
featuring an exciting restaurant menu as well as an extensive list of prepared
meals to take home.

Windsor Hospitality, parent company to both Mercer and The
Prune, is adding Stratford’s iconic York Street Kitchen to
its family of restaurants. Everyone’s favourite boutique restaurant, York
Street Kitchen, on Erie Street, is known for creative sandwiches, innovative
salads and sides, and homemade desserts. Owner/founder Susie Palach,
who celebrates nearly three decades in business, is staying on to ensure the
magic shines brighter than ever with the support of Windsor Hospitality’s
dynamic team.

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Ontario Culinary Tourist

I am a
writer, culinary columnist and food and social media editor in London and
Toronto, Ontario. A chef, former restaurateur and hospitality consultant with
over thirty years in the industry, my work has appeared in a variety of print
and on-line publications. I also freelance written editorial and visual content
for tourism and corporate clients.