On the Catwalk

HOT caught some of the backstage action at the Badgley Mischka, Catherine Malandrino and Carolina Herrera runway shows.

by By Regina Molaro

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

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New York City was the setting of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, held February 9 to16 at several stylish destinations-from the classical-style Theatre at Lincoln Center to the ultra-modern Eyebeam Atelier building and beyond. A lineup of runway shows lured fashion industry insiders, editors and A-listers as they previewed what's to come for Fall/Winter 2012. Badgley Mischka's catwalk dazzled with a luxurious collection that was richly embellished and decadent while Catherine Malandrino flaunted sexy, boldly feminine looks and Carolina Herrera showcased stunning ladylike silhouettes.

Badgley Mischka

The Theatre at Lincoln Center was the scene of Badgley Mischka's luxurious Fall/Winter2012 show. The collection, which was richly embellished, was inspired by the German Impressionist film, "Metropolis." The light, angles and geometry of the film's imaginary cityscapes are reflected in the collection's mood, silhouette and fine embroideries. The catwalk presented a range of sophisticated, high-glamour silhouettes accented with shimmering metallics and faux fur embellishments.

To counterbalance the defined, strong and sculpted lines of Badgley Mischka's collection, stylist Peter Gray, created a random, ethereal texture. "It's multi-dimensional, very light and airy-the result of tightly wound curls fully brushed out and then encouraged to spring upward, outward and free in all directions," says Gray. To strengthen and ground this floating texture, the stylist created small hidden buns randomly over the head to create an irregular surface texture.

"These beautiful styles look almost as if they're breathing and moving as the models walk. Essentially, they're soft, very pretty and feminine," says Gray. For contrast, he created a smooth, elegant, glamorous wave-shape in the front that flows back into a big fluffy mass. Three different sized curling irons were used-the smallest available created the core of the hair's texture (3/8" 1/2", and 5/8"). These were fully brushed-out to create big, soft, multi-dimensional shapes. Random curls were then loosely pulled and backcombed in unexpected directions.

Gray used one product-Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong to create these soft, fluffy looks.

Badgley Mischka

Badgley Mischka

Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong

Create the Look/Peter Gray

"I first brushed hair out thoroughly. I then set out to create the fluffy texture using a random curling iron technique. Starting at the nape of the neck, I took small irregular sections in random directions, twisted them and then curled the hair. I alternated pencil thin 3/8" and 1?2" curling irons. I continually rotated the sections at different angles and in as many different directions as possible."

"I pinned each curl through its center with bobby pins to grip at the scalp.(They slide in and out of the hair easily and don't damage strands). This ensured the curls stay close to the scalp and tight, so that they spring out like a coil when they are released."

"For a smooth, deep undulating wave in the front area that would nicely blend into hair's fluffy texture, I created 3-4 sections using a 3/4" curling iron and made barrel curls, directing them towards the back."

"Once the hair was completely set, I sprayed Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong throughout, and used the Moroccanoil Ionic Ceramic Hairdryer with a diffuser sock attached to heat set them. After 5 minutes, they were literally set like springs."

"In some cases, depending upon the thickness of the model's hair, I created small bun sections at random parts of the head to ensure an even more irregular silhouette."

"After unpinning the set, I completely brushed out the curls, starting at the back, so they would dramatically expand outwards and upwards."

"I then pulled out random sections of hair. I loosely backcombed and sprayed again with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong once I formed the look. I then used the heat of the hairdryer with a sock diffuser to fix and hold the shape."

"To create the perfect wave in the front area, I combed and smoothed the hair, and shaped an undulating form with my fingers. I sprayed again with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong to hold it in place and then blended the wave into the soft fluffy texture behind it, and sprayed again to fix the look in place."

Nail Report: Nail guru Deborah Lippmann created the rich nail looks that complemented Badgley Mischka's collection. Lippmann came up with a sophisticated and playful spin on nail art with a modern French manicure. The short, feminine nail features a "Dark Side of the Moon" aubergine shade with a subtle pop of "Nefertiti," shimmer on the tip. It is a modern micro fine golden frost.

Catherine Malandrino

"La Feline" and "virtue and vice" were the inspiration behind Catherine Malandrino's sexy, seductive collection. Graceful, graphic lines blurred the boundaries of skin with delicate crystal netting that subtly covered the female figure. Razor-slim cut "after-dark" dresses revealed forbidden curves ushering in a sexy vibe. By day, the Catherine Malandrino woman prowls in soft silk crepe, light cashmere pointelle and a blouson bomber. By night, a feline transformation occurs. Audacious by instinct, the Malandrino woman makes a statement in sliced patent leather over tulle and embossed lambskin. Full of mystery, the collection depicts an evolution of fantasy from suggestive to seductive.

"Catherine's clothes are boldly feminine and we wanted to create hair that reflected this sophistication and strength," says Antonio Corral Calero, Moroccanoil Artistic Director. "The hair looks were also inspired by the feline mystery of the 80's film, "Cat People." A signature element of the dramatic looks shown was the flowing contrast of two different finishes and textures. Glossy, volumized curved wave patterns defined the hair on top of the head and were sleeked close to the sides. They were accentuated by stick-straight, naturally shiny and smooth strands flowing down the back.

"Well-conditioned, healthy hair is essential for this look. To start, I mixed a cocktail of Moroccanoil Treatment or Moroccanoil Treatment Light (depending upon the models' hair texture and color) with Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream and worked it into dampened hair."

"I blow-dried the hair straight using a large, round Moroccanoil Ionic Ceramic Brush, while lifting at the root to create volume on top of the head."

"I then applied our new Moroccanoil volumizing mousse (available late Fall 2012) through the top and sides, and massaged it into the strands until they were saturated. This helped to create a glossy base to hold the waved patterning to come."

"I finger-combed the hair at the top of the head to separate the strands and make fine curved patterns. This gave the appearance of contrast and depth. I also slicked the slides and repeated the patterning with my fingers."

"Next, while using the hair dryer, I lifted the soft waves at the root for more definition, and dried the pattern in place. Afterwards, I lifted the hair at the root and then crisscrossed the raised strands at the crown for a bit more height and volume."

"I then sprayed new Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong throughout the style to hold it in place and leave it natural-looking and shiny.

"Finally, to give hair at the back of the head a more linear look and emphasize its contrasting texture and finish, I flat-ironed each section to smooth the hair from the crown down and to eliminate any flyaways. I misted on Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine Spray after flat-ironing to give sleeked hair a beautiful mirror-like shine, and then misted the entire style with Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine Spray to unify the two finishes.

Carolina Herrera

For Fall/Winter 2012 designer Carolina Herrera focused on saturated color and a juxtaposition of weights and textiles. The collection, which debuted at The Theatre at Lincoln Center, exuded femininity and was tailored specifically for today's seductive, modern woman. Drawing on the reflections of an artist's studio with attention to bold color and rich texture, the soft, feminine collection offers an exemplary range of looks from classic day dresses to well tailored separates and long, flowing evening gowns. Jackets are cropped and shown with fitted pencil skirts, which further elongates the leg. Silhouettes are trim and body-conscious with an accentuation on natural curvature and movement.

As for the hair looks, uniquely graphic, full-volume looks were created by Orlando Pita for Moroccanoil. "We wanted to create something dramatic and unexpected, so we went big," says Pita. Young and very cool, the style complements Herrera's ultra-feminine collection and incorporates one of the season's hottest trends-the headband.

"The look highlights a voluminous texture that is achieved by back-combing hair to new heights, then smoothed at the hairline, and held in place by either a black grosgrain ribbon or a thin elastic headband," says Pita. Variations include long, free-flowing hair, as well styles with an elegant bow tied simply at the end of the hair's length. For models with finer hair, Pita used hair extensions to create a longer, fuller, dramatic look.

"The product essential to create this look was new Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong, which I used to ensure texture, lift and hold," says Pita. "It built the foundation inside the style, as well as maintained its shape, so I didn't need to use a lot of different products. Since Moroccanoil's hairspray has nourishing properties, the backcombing is not damaging, and it's easy to brush out afterwards. It has a great strong hold yet still looks natural. I always like products that multi-task, not just to hold a style, but also to work if I style or backcomb and ensure volume stays in."

Pita advises those stylists seeking to create these headband looks, to find a huge spool of elastic and make them yourself. "It's simple and all you need to do is tie a knot in the back," says Pita. "Or you can use a ribbon as a headband, placed or tied in an interesting way."

Carolina HerreraCREDIT FOR ALL SHOW IMAGES: Liudi Hara for Moroccanoil

Carolina Herrera

Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong

Create the Look/Orlando Pita

"I blow dried the hair using new Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong while lifting the hair at the root with a large round brush.

"Then I straightened the tips of the hair, and put the hairband around the neck, so I began by backcombing the hair in ? inch sections, starting at the nape of the neck and working my way to the front. I sprayed each section that I teased with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong since the foundation of the look had to last many hours."

"Next, I brushed and smoothed out the top layers of the hair-very lightly since I didn't want to take out any of the teasing-and then sprayed again.

"When I smoothed out the top layer, I made sure to brush more deeply at the front, so it would go flat. I then took the headband around the neck and brought it up behind the ears, so the front would stay flat with the rest of the hair expanding out to create the look.

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