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WHICH SERGER STITCH WHEN? Even the most basic serger can produce several stitches. Here's a look at the whole family of stitches and the best use for each . by Millie Schwandt erged stitches add stretch and strength to seams, simplify edge-finishes, and even embellish a garment. But there are so many stitches to choose from, it's hard to know which stitch to use on which fabric or when not to serge at all. Some of these questions can be answered by learning the standard serger stitches and their attributes. Be aware that not all sergers can make every stitch, so check the machine's manual to see what it can do. And if you're shopping for a new serger, make sure the model you choose has the stitches you want. To serge or not to serge To decide whether to use your serger instead of a conventional machine, it's important first to understand the difference in these two types of stitches: On a serger, the looper threads are looped and interlaced-in effect, knitted-with the needle thread(s); on a standard machine, the bobbin thread locks with the needle thread. Next think about your fabric, how you'll use it, and how often you'll wash it. Will it be a knit you'll wash frequently? A woven destined for sportswear and a one-season life span? Or a sheer, crinkled fabric for a loose-fitting garment? In all these cases, the serger is the way to go for seaming and edge-finishing. But if you're making a straight wool skirt or a linen blazer, serging the seams will yield bulky lines rather than the smoothness of pressedopen seams. And if you plan to line your garment, finishing edges with the serger is a waste of thread because all seams will be enclosed. Selecting a serger stitch When you do opt for a serged seam or edge-finish, choose the stitch that matches the needs of your garment. Keep in mind that a serger stitch with fewer threads can have a lot of strength and stretch. Stitches with more threads tend to be bulkier rather than stronger, though there are exceptions, like the superstretch, three-thread wrapped stitch. And stitches incorporating the chainstitch make a stable, nonstretchy seam. As a rule, use a narrow stitch with fewer threads for lightweight fabrics, wrapped stitches for maximum stretch on knit seams, overlock stitches for standard seams on knits and wovens, and wider overlock stitches with the most threads for ravelly or bulky fabrics. Flatlock stitches are wonderful for sportswear that needs to be comfy on the inside, and rolled-hem All serger stitches are not created equal. A bathing suit seam needs strength, stretch, and comfort; a sheer layered skirt benefits from a delicately serged edge finish. When selecting a serger stitch to seam or finish an edge, consider the fabric's weight, whether it's knit or woven, stretchy or stable, or has a tendency to fray. december 19 98 /ja nuar y 19 99 41