Because the Dia de Difuntos and the Independence Day of Cuenca occur back to back on Nov 2 and Nov 3, the Artisan Festival is one of the biggest holiday weeks in Cuenca, if not the biggest. Although the main focus is native art, this week is also devoted to food and music festivals throughout the city. Public and private music events are found in parks and on the street – in more locations than I could attend. There are 2 beauty pageants — one for “Chola Cuencana” and another for Miss Cuenca — dance performances and a wood oven tour with fresh bread samples! (More about cholas later.)

As a former Chicagoland resident, I would describe the Artisan Festival, or Festival de Artesanias, as a combination of the Taste of Chicago, the Hyde Park Art Festival, Milwaukee’s Summer Music Fest, and the Flea Market all mixed into one giant festival. According to an expat, as recently as 5 years ago, the Artisan Fest was only composed of artists from Ecuador and other South American countries who spread out their wares on blankets beside the road. Today the city has supplied tents for all, including vendors of “flea market” type merchandise. However, only artisans and food vendors are given signage with their name and place of origin.

Quichua-Shuar woman from Puyo selling the ceramics of a woman’s coop in Puyo

The Artisan Festival is great for early Christmas shopping: jewelry, wood masks, wood bowls, totora reed baskets, metal work, ceramics, colorful glass plates and bowls, alplaca sweaters and hats, cotton ikat-dye shawls and ponchos, wood furniture, and all kinds of mountable wall art. I couldn’t help but buy a few authentic indigenous wares: a large ceramic toucan from a Quichua-Shuar woman, a fine-weave shigra made with natural reds and blacks from Papaurcu (outside of Salcedo) , and an indigenous design ikat-dyed poncho from a lady from Gualaceo. John bought a colorful skull mask, fitting for Day of the Dead, and baskets with attitude. See photos below.

Not surprisingly, hotels are near capacity during this event, as Ecuadorians and foreigners flock to this event. Cuencanos are understandably proud of their tour de force Artisan Festival. Cheers to Cuenca!