Dude that was some horrible wheel hop. That is extremely bad news for the transaxle. Those 18's you are running in the back are going to be harder to launch on then some 17's. You also don't want them at full pressure, I ran my 18" NT05's at 25 psi last time out and I had zero wheel hop. If I ever get any hop I immediately abandon a wot run attempt and just finish out the run at a normal pace. It is way to dangerous to these cars to take repeated hard wheel hop like that, you will break something if you have a stock driveline. If you're having that much trouble launching on street tires I would highly recommend getting a set of 17's for the track with some 275/40 drag radials, then air them down to 20 psi to start. Much easier to launch on and a lot safer. Also I'm guessing you're not going through the water box? I go around it, then back up to it with just the rear tires. The track workers will guide you back to it when they see you want to only get the backs wet. Start your burnout in the water, I do it in 2nd. You then roll out of the water spinning until the tires 'bite'. You will very clearly feel that after only 2-3 seconds. Yore initial burnout was really rough.

Dude that was some horrible wheel hop. That is extremely bad news for the transaxle. What tires are you running out back and what is the pressure? Stock 18's are more prone to hop if you don't launch them right. You also don't want them at full pressure, I ran my 18" NT05's at 25 psi last time out and I had zero wheel hop. If I ever get any hop I immediately abandon a wot run attempt and just finish out the run at a normal pace. It is way to dangerous to these cars to take repeated hard wheel hop like that, you will break something if you have a stock driveline. If you're having that much trouble launching on street tires I would highly recommend getting a set of 17's for the track with some 275/40 drag radials, then air them down to 20 psi to start. Much easier to launch on and a lot safer.

I know. The wheel hop was terrible. Stock driveline too. Would slipping the clutch some help with decrease the wheel hop?

I'm running 18" Toyo R888s all 4 corners. 305/35/18 in the rear and 275/40/17 in the front. I had the rear tires down to around 20psi

I edited my reply after I went back and saw what tires you had in your initial post. Are you using the water box? You really should. You won't have that brutal hop if you start from the water. You must be dumping the clutch too fast off the line too. You can't just release it that fast that's going to cause hop, you need to be a bit smoother with your release. It can be hard to explain but once you get the feel for it it makes sense. Are you also sure nothing is broken already? Like the trans mount especially. That would cause extreme hop like that. You should check it out to be sure it's ok. I also have a transaxle brace, from DTE. It reduces hop and strengthens the trans and axle.

I would drive over the water box until my rear tires were just barely still in there then mash the gas for a few seconds. I've never learned how to do a proper burnout so I'm sure that also has to do with the high 60' times.

I'll definitely try more clutch slip at higher rpm next time to see if that helps.

That wheel hop is going to cost you a **** ton of money if you don't stop doing it.

I ran 120 mph with 440rwhp in 75 degree humid weather but had a slipping stock clutch and I'm at 3400lbs. I was also on Michelin Pilot Super Sports, I think 11'[email protected] ish are reachable with the new clutch.

I know I was kinda being a smarta$$ w/ the sportbike comment, but after seeing your vid & launch seeing what's holding ya back actually something relevant popped in my head - taking a sportbike to the dragstrip is the definition of making the SMOOTHEST interaction possible between clutch engagement, slippage, & good times. You cannot mess around w/ the launch no way in hell can you just drop the clutch or you can lose your bike or much worse.

You need to better manage the release of the clutch while simultaneously feeding the throttle, clutch should be partially engaged when the wheels start to spin, way you're doing it looks like an on/off switch situation.