Water in clutch casing

Water in only half the casings, started bike after 8 months,it sounded ok,then seen though oil window white, so i drain. thinking it's a gasket i take head and cyclinder off, now here is where it get wierd no water in piston area only clutch side. look for cracks none to be found, is it possible that the water breeched through the water pump seal at the same time i turned it off therefore it never made it to the trans ?

Well take the ******* clutch cover and the clutch out and let everything flush out. and any other parts that might have touched water inside of the engine. your most likly goig to have to replace something. who noes how bad the damage is,u might be able to just let every thing dry and soak it in oil then reinstall the parts. i recommend buying some extra tranny oil and flush out the cases with a quart or 2. also do this, use a heavier weight gear oil. if u regularly check for water and find it again. expirement and look around to find the problem, might be a gasket, if water is sneaking if somehow u might be very suprised to find the culprit.if it is radiator fluid seeping in, check the water pump seal and replace as needed..... good luck

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It sounds like you have seriously over-filled the oil. This is not a good idea and can cause seals to blow out, blow by at the piston rings and in severe cases, possibly bent connecting rods. Drain the oil off and fill to spec. Sometimes they give the oil capacity on the side of the engine, in ml. measurement. For example a bike I have says: 1600ml If you don't know the conversion into quarts and can't find it anywhere on the internet, you can buy a cheap measuring container that has a metric reading on it. I hope this helps you out, Good luck!

Your clutch discs are stuck together, happens sometimes when a bike sits for a LONG TIME. The oil basically acts kinda like glue. you need to get in there and take the clutch discs out and clean them off and put it back together. Of course you might find that the primary(clutch area) is full of water. It happens because the vent for the clutch goes up under the seat and can act like a funnel and drain water back into the case.

holds 3 us quarts of oil with a oil filter change or if the egine was complety drained after overhaul it takes 3 1/2 us quarts of oil.
To check oil look for a small quarter size window on the clutch case,oil level should fill half the window to be full.Bike must be held level while viewing window,not on kick stand.

When did this problem start? has the bike been sitting for any long period of time? any background on the bike leading to your problem would help.questions1. will the bike shift into gear not running all gears check it first put the bike on the center stand and rotate the rear wheel and go through the gears shifting if that is ok your good2. shifting into gear bike running does not want to go?grinds or lurches forward? problems from sitting for long months or yrs. sometimes when a motorcycle sits the clutch plates that are in oil will act like they are glued together ans some time can be freed after the engine oil has warmed up, in worse case you have to remove the r/h clutch cover and remove the clutch pressure plate and separate each of clutch plates and reassemble it.

If your rear wheel is locked up in first and second gear with the engine running, this is not a good sign. Have you ever ran the bike without oil in the transmission? Every time I've seen this, the chain was thrown off the bike and it busted the cases. The oil leaked out of the cases and the transmission locks up. Generally, it locks in fifth gear but it could lock up in any or no gear.

Your problem sounds like something is wrong with the low gear-second gear "clutch gear". The clutch gear is gear that slides sideways on one of the transmission shafts to engage the proper gears. If the bike will roll when in neutral, these may be the only gears affected. If the bike will not roll when in neutral, your problem may be in countershaft. Either way, the transmission could be damaged.

Now, if you're talking about the rear wheel locking up if you try to push start the bike, this is because in low and second gear, there isn't enough mechanical advantage in the transmission to overcome the engine compression. Remember, you transferring torque through the transmission backwards when you try to push start the bike. Try starting the bike using third or fourth gear instead. Standing on the pegs and dropping onto the seat when you release the clutch helps.

either blown rings or main crank seals have gone are you sure its petrol / water to check for ring you need a compression tester and the simply screw in the place of the spark plug and you kick the bike over and get back to me what psi it reaches on the guage this pic will demonstrate bud

Disconnect the cable at the engine. Does the cable move freely when disconnected? If it does, remove the left side cover then check the operation of the clutch arm. Does it move freely and spring back freely? If not then clean it up. If it does move freely, remove the clutch push rod from the center case. Roll it on a flat surface. Does it roll smoothly or does it sort of lope along. If bent, replace it. If rolling smoothly then put it back in the center-case and remount the side casing. Lube the clutch cable and remount it also. The adjuster #23 should be screwed in until it is snug then back off the screw 1/4 turn.

Assuming no one has tinkered with the actual clutch and it was operating properly a few months ago or when it was put up for the winter, now is the time for an oil change. Dirty, gritty oil can stiffen a clutch big time. Drain the oil and refill with 10w40 motor oil. No synthetics or oils with "special" additives or friction reducers. No oil marked ECII. Just normal motor oil. Shell, Mobil, Pennzoil, etc., the major brands. Ride the bike for an hour or so then change the oil again. Doing this will flush most all of the grit from the gearbox. Hey, oil ain't that expensive. This should take care of the problem.

Difficulty in selecting neutral is most likely due to clutch drag. Does the bike jump forwards when you select first gear? This could be due to dry or wrongly adjusted clutch cable. Another though less likely cause could be weak clutch springs or a worn clutch basket. Aim for about 5mm free play at clutch lever.