Lively pub by the Thames in Oxford with smart rooms

From the courtyard terrace of this pub with 20 stylish rooms you can see the fine stone arches of Folly Bridge at the spot where oxen first crossed a ford on the River Thames (giving the city its name). Christ Church Meadow is to be found a short walk away on the banks downstream. Drinkers and diners sit at lilac wooden tables while they take in the pretty scenery as tourists in rowboats wobble by. Inside, the hits of Otis Redding and Sinéad O’Connor play in the cavernous main bar, arranged over two levels with bright modern art, tan-coloured leather bar stools and exposed red-brick walls.

In a nutshell
This Fuller’s pub has recently had a revamp, with public areas and rooms spruced up and eight rooms added where staff accommodation used to be at the back. The main, 19th-century building was originally a warehouse for a boatyard with a wharf believed to date from the early 17th century; a big metal winch from the yard still hangs across the water. The Head of the River name refers to the boat in the lead during the Oxford University’s “summer eights” rowing competition here.

What are the rooms like?
They’re smart and stylish with retro chrome lights, good Marshall digital radios, velveteen chairs and great views of the river (from some). Each is named after a famous figure connected to Oxford, including Lewis Carroll, Cardinal Thomas Wolsey and Evelyn Waugh. They come in three categories, with the cheapest being the “cosy” rooms, of which John le Carré is perhaps the pick. The top, “superior indulgent” rooms face the river too. The Edmond Halley in the new section is a good example, with pictures of lunar maps on the wall. The Sir John Betjeman and William Webb Ellis rooms are also well positioned in the main building.

Which is the best room?
Any of the “superior indulgent” rooms, although Sir John Betjeman, on a corner, is perhaps the best.

So what’s the food like?
Pub classics, such as pies, burgers and fish and chips with mushy peas, feature on the menu, which also has sharing platters of charcuterie, olives, hummus and smoked salmon. My starter of grilled sardines (slightly overcooked and rather rubbery) came with a spicy paprika sauce, but my main course made up for this disappointment: a fine plate of roast chicken with a salad of chunky heritage tomato, courgette and aubergine. The brownie with vanilla ice cream and a sprig of mint was gooey and delicious. Service, however, was a touch slow. My breakfast of avocado on toast with poached eggs and chopped onions was first-rate.

Who goes there?
Visiting academics and weekend breakers.

What else is there to do?
Explore Oxford (visitengland.com), and hire a boat from Salter’s Steamers Ltd (salterssteamers.co.uk), which has its office on the opposite bank next to Folly Bridge. Try a pint of Fuller’s bitter — the ESB (extra special brew) is particularly recommended. There’s also a wide selection of craft ales and a good gin list.

The highs, the lows, the verdict
Eight out of ten
The rooms are well done and the river views are great, but service can be erratic, especially when it’s busy.

Need to know
Tom Chesshyre was a guest of the Head of the River (01865 721600, headoftheriveroxford.co.uk), Folly Bridge, Oxford OX1 4LB; no wheelchair-access rooms; no single-occupancy discounts; dogs are allowed