Pressing the "Wash Temp" button in a normal manner usually has no effect.

The behavior can be a little random, but usually if you hold it for a few seconds then release, nothing will happen for a few more seconds, then there will be a single beep and the wash temp indicator will cycle through all three wash temperatures in order maybe a half dozen times or so. Most of the time it stops one temperature "ahead" of the previous one, where you would expect it to stop for a single press. It is possible to select the temperature this way, and the operation of the washer seems correct for the eventual selected temperature, but it's a very annoying behavior.

I don't see any error codes appearing on the washer.

I'm assuming that it is likely either the user interface or the central control unit, but since they're both quite expensive I don't want to replace either unless I'm pretty sure it's the problem. Given the cost, I'd likely just live with the problem if I had to replace both to fix it. Anyone have any ideas on this or diagnostic suggestions? Thanks!

The next time it does the cycle temp routine place your finger flat on the touch pad of the interface and slide it rapidly (still flat) across the touch pad. If it causes the cycling to stop there is a touch pad button problem. There might be something (debris) between the touch buttons and the control panel board plastics. I would at least look to see if there was a tiny piece of something between the front panel and the control panel. It just snaps in place so it should not be to difficult to inspect. This sounds more like a sticking button due to something foreign causing it to stick. I do not think at this time the control panel is bad.

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@kls your feed back comment: I ended up replacing the control panel which has fixed the problem. The button didn't feel obstructed in any way and there was nothing visibly wrong with it when I removed it.

Thank you for the feedback. Just glad your washer is back to normal. I would have asked you to check out the inlet water valve for power and continuity and then would at that point have recommended a control panel change after verifying solenoid power voltage on the back of the control panel and water level control. Again thank you for taking the time to post exactly what it took to get the unit up and running again.