Some people just need to let their hair down. Told a Dr today, that if I'm not laughing, something's wrong with me! That I'm 50, and plan on another 50 years, so fix me! lol.
About to post a link to a video showing how 'tight' of a parking situation I have getting my motorhome into my alley driveway.
Mom, Dad, brother and sister in law in town for the afternoon, so HAD to go for a short cruise in the Airstream, especially since this was their 1st time even seeing my 'beast'!
Link in a few moments.
Thanks, Derek

When we bought our MH, the windows didn't open either. I changed out all of the screens & now they open. To change the screens you need to remove the grey peice of plastic in the upper window track. They are held in place by 2 itsy bitsy screws.Then lift the window while removing the grey plastic from the lower track. The screen comes out by lifting them into the upper track & gently coaxing them out of the lower track. While they are out, clean the grey plastic well top & bottom & coat them with a dry silicone spray lubricant. The sliding glass part also comes out the same way. Clean the top & bottom of it as well. It's amazing how so little dirt on the grey plastic & under it in the aluminum track can keep the windows from opening. Be careful with those plastic peices as they are no longer available. You only get 1 chance to break them, so don't.
Helpful cleaning hint: Remove the 2 screws that hold the locking latch on the sliding part of window. This will allow you to slide the screen all the way over so you don't leave that dirty little strip on the inside of the glass. Replace these screw by hand, don't use a screw gun. They will strip out easy.

__________________"Sometimes I wonder if the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it." Mark Twain

When we bought our MH, the windows didn't open either. I changed out all of the screens & now they open. To change the screens you need to remove the grey peice of plastic in the upper window track. They are held in place by 2 itsy bitsy screws.Then lift the window while removing the grey plastic from the lower track. The screen comes out by lifting them into the upper track & gently coaxing them out of the lower track. While they are out, clean the grey plastic well top & bottom & coat them with a dry silicone spray lubricant. The sliding glass part also comes out the same way. Clean the top & bottom of it as well. It's amazing how so little dirt on the grey plastic & under it in the aluminum track can keep the windows from opening. Be careful with those plastic peices as they are no longer available. You only get 1 chance to break them, so don't.
Helpful cleaning hint: Remove the 2 screws that hold the locking latch on the sliding part of window. This will allow you to slide the screen all the way over so you don't leave that dirty little strip on the inside of the glass. Replace these screw by hand, don't use a screw gun. They will strip out easy.

3Dog,
Love to see some photos of your window repair. Still new to all of this, spending lots of time under and outside of moho, I'm just happy that the windows open somewhat compared to the rest of you. Actually surprised that Steve (Keyair) hasn't added his 2cents to the windows yet......
Thanks, Derek

Sorry Derek, no photos were taken at the time. I was hurrying to get it done as it was mosqito season. I have a screen to replace in the spring. Our grand puppy got excited about a squirrel in the yard last fall. I'll take some then.
Ricky

__________________"Sometimes I wonder if the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it." Mark Twain

Ok,
I've seen these X-Chocks on multiple Airstream TT through the years. Can the tag axle on the Classic Airstream handle this sort of item? Anyone ever heard whether this is a great thing to have on the moho, or a complete waste of time and could possibly harm our non-replaceable tag axle?
Thanks, Derek

Reason I'm asking about these X-Chocks, last time I camped, I DID have e-brake actuated, set the Levelers, and as I'm getting out of moho, the rig rolls off of the levelers, because of the sandy soil here in Florida. Even putting pads underneath the levelers, I still 'rolled' off the the levelers. Was told by neighbor RV'r, I needed wheel chocks, but thought maybe the X-Chocks would be something better.
So, I still need something to keep my rig from rolling in sandy soil, cuz that's all there is in Florida......
Thanks, Derek

Reason I'm asking about these X-Chocks, last time I camped, I DID have e-brake actuated, set the Levelers, and as I'm getting out of moho, the rig rolls off of the levelers, because of the sandy soil here in Florida. Even putting pads underneath the levelers, I still 'rolled' off the the levelers. Was told by neighbor RV'r, I needed wheel chocks, but thought maybe the X-Chocks would be something better.
So, I still need something to keep my rig from rolling in sandy soil, cuz that's all there is in Florida......
Thanks, Derek

The problem with these rigs is the parking brake is on the drive shaft. If one of the rear wheels looses traction the brake is useless. If you park on a slope and take too much weight off the rear wheels with the leveling jacks you risk loosing traction and may roll off the jacks. A wheel chock on the down slope side of the wheel with the most weight on it is the safest way to park.

I try to park with the front end down slope so that the lift on the rear leveling jacks is minimal to prevent this problem.

Dan,
Thanks for the information. Had no idea e-brake was on driveshaft, just thought it was on rear axle, as always. And yes, my drive axle wasn't completely on the ground when this happened. No big scare like I was moving that far. Remember, once you get over towards the coast line of Florida, the only hill there are, are the bridges going over local roads on the Interstate.
I did go buy a set of cheapie wheel chocks, so I'll use those.
Thanks, Derek