The
mountains of the eastern Black Sea region are
characterised by lush vegetation unequalled
elsewhere in Turkey. Even at the height of summer
these mountains, which rise in places to over
3000 metres in height, remain emerald green
thanks to the abundance of water. This mountain
barrier running parallel to the Black Sea coast
causes the clouds to empty their moisture on
its slopes, so that precipitation occurs an
average 250 days of the year, and levels are
the highest in Turkey. Plentiful water nurtures
thick forests up to an altitude of 2000 metres,
and above the tree line the alpine pastures
are green throughout the year and carpeted with
colourful flowers in spring and summer. Streams
fed by melting snow and rain give life to hundreds
of species of flowers and fill the spectacular
glacier lakes. The Salaçur Valley running from
south to west is one of the best places to enjoy
the flora and breathtaking scenery of the eastern
Black Sea mountains.

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Unruffled lakes and rushing streams: SALAÇUR

2002 / AUGUST

Against a backdrop of soaring snowclad peaks
you can explore glacier lakes, rushing streams
and rivers, thick forests, flower bedecked meadows
and charming mountain villages. The mouth of
the valley is located near the town of İspir
at the confluence of the Aksu and Çoruh rivers
(the Çoruh by the way being one of the best
ten rivers in the world for white water rafting).
A few kilometres after entering the valley you
come to the village of Aksu, also known as Salaçur,
where wooden houses cling to the rocky slopes
above while the lower part of the village nestles
in woodland. Here we called in at the tiny coffee
house shaded by a great plane tree, and were
delighted to find Asik Canimoglu, a traditional
ministrel, singing ballads. We ordered tea,
only to discover that in Aksu this means a magnificent
breakfast complete with the local speciality,
dried cream, and alpine flower honey.

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Unruffled lakes and rushing streams: SALAÇUR

2002 / AUGUST

From Aksu we drove to the village of Çatakkaya,
where apart from the tiled roofs the houses are
built entirely of wood. This village lies just
above the tree line in a side valley to the north.
As one of the few villages which has never been
ravaged by fire, Çatakkaya preserves its original
wooden architecture intact, and is like an openair
museum. Moreover, since many of the younger people
have moved away and the elderly inhabitants who
remain continue their traditional lifestyle unchanged,
time seems to have stood still here. The last
village in the valley is Yedigöller at an altitude
of 2000 metres. In this typical mountain village
the inhabitants make their livelihood from animal
husbandry, beekeeping and agriculture.

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Unruffled lakes and rushing streams: SALAÇUR

2002 / AUGUST

If you decide to venture higher into the mountains
it is advisable to consult the local people about
routes and conditions first. It is also possible
to hire horses so that you can explore unimpeded
by heavy packs. At an altitude of 2200 metres
above Yedigöller the valley begins to broaden
out, and alpine meadows whose grass is later cut
for winter hay stretch far into the distance.
Mountain streams pouring off the higher plateaus
and mountains above this point swell the waters
of the Aksu River. The most beautiful and well
watered of these plateaus is the 3000 metre Yedigöller,
a bowl surrounded by mountains in which lie seven
glacier lakes amidst flower-strewn meadows. This
is undoubtedly one of the most unforgettable mountain
views in Turkey. Göbekli Göl (Navel Lake!), so
named after the tiny island in the centre, is
the largest of these lakes whose calm surfaces
mirror the blue sky. And when you get close enough
to see reflections of snow capped peaks in their
waters, the view is nothing short of magical.

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Unruffled lakes and rushing streams: SALAÇUR

2002 / AUGUST

Çifte Göller, the Two Lakes, is another plateau lying to the west at an altitude of 2800 metres. Here a great rock rises dramatically from the beds of the two lakes to a height of several hundred metres. Deli Göl is a small but beautiful lake at 3100 metres, set in a bowl encircled by high mountains. When you stand on the shore of the lake and shout the echoes reverberate for so long that you wonder if they might go on for ever. It is probably this phenomenon that inspired the name, meaning Crazy Lake. From the top of a 3250 metre high ridge you get your first view of the largest lake of all, Mal Gölü, and the 3711 metre peak of Mount Verçenik towering behind.

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Unruffled lakes and rushing streams: SALAÇUR

2002 / AUGUST

With its mountains, glacier lakes, alpine flora,
unique architecture and a way of life that remains
in many ways unchanged, the remote Salaçur Valley
is one of the most amazing places in Turkey.