OK, where can you find the YATES/NASCAR 351 block and heads? I have looked
and looked and can't seem to find anything.

_____________________________________________________________________________________
Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com

I'm finally getting stuck in to my recently imported '66 F100 and I'm
wondering what are the chances of picking up a pair of inner front wings, in
good condition for my truck as the wings that are on it are not the best.
Also the rear cab mount plates are shot. Do you recommend I purchase the
bolt-on plates that are available in the JC Whitney catalogue? I was
thinking of getting these and welding them in instead. What do you advise.
Worst case scenario for me would be to buy a complete body shell from a rust
free state and ship it back to Ireland and restore it while I drive and
enjoy my truck but would this option be available to me? Any help would be
appreciated.

> OK, where can you find the YATES/NASCAR 351 block and heads? I have looked
> and looked and can't seem to find anything.

____________________________________________________________________________
_________
last spring ford motor sports was advertising the 351 stroker bloack for i
think about $5000.00 at the ford motor sports dealers if correct it had
about 367 cu.in. or so and put out about 500 h.p. also SUMITT RACING EQUIP.
has some blocks and heads they sell also including 351 complete racing
engines but they are high dollar stuff though
gordon

> In a message dated 11/24/2000 7:37:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> bruce9 flash.net writes:
>
> << That is why with true aluminum welding you have to have an
> inert gas (one
> that does not readily mix with oxygen) flowing over the
> surface during the
> welding process (Mig welding) >>
>
> The gas is called Argon. The gas used in mig welders for steel is a
> Argon/Carbon Dioxide mix. 100% Argon is used for welding Aluminum.
>
> One little note for anyone using a mig welder. If you are
> using the gas to
> shield the wire while welding, don't try welding in windy
> conditions. The
> wind will blow the gas away from the point of welding and
> poor welds are the
> result. Use flux core wire for welding outdoors and or in
> windy environments.
>
> Rollie H. Hunt

So is there a difference in what you can weld with a tru MIG setup verses a
flux core wire feed welder? I need to get a welder for some projects around
the house. I'm not planning on earning a living with it but I don't want to
get one that is so low quality that it won't do the job. I have a hardware
store around the corner that carries flux core wire so it would be most
convenient for me. I want to do some sheet metal, and other ferrous metals
now. I don't need to do aluminum now but would like to be able to if
needed.

On the van there was a free area next to the radiator which happened to be
offset to one side just enough to allow it. Like I said, it is better that
way but few vehicles have the correct set up for it. The area was also open
to the grill so it received full air flow just like the radiator. I also
remounted my duraspark module up front for more air......problem with that
is it also got more water........One of my objections to mounting it to the
radiator is the likelyhood of damaging the radiator with the mouning methods
supplied with most coolers. I'm probably just anal about it but those are
my reasons.

BTW, the design of autos produces more heat than sticks, quite a bit more so
a cooler is a necessity if you do anything other than cruise the eways but
especially the OD's which have gears running under pressure all the time.
It's the torque converter and front pump the produce most of the heat so all
autos need to able to get rid of it if you use them for towing or low speed
off roading etc. and this is the main reason autos crash when you get stuck
and keep spinning the wheels etc. trying to get out.

This particular situation is one reason to mount the cooler in front of the
radiator, at low speeds the van had little air flow over the cooler due to
the radiator shroud isolating the flow to the radiator but at highway speeds
or when towing etc. it got plenty of air. You can resolve this in one of
two ways, put it in front of the radiator which happens to be sufficient for
the climate you are in or use a very large cooler to the side which won't
require a whole lot of air flow to do it's job. I've also heard of real off
road buffs mounting them with their own electric fans so they get air all
the time but don't have to be in front of the radiator.....:-) (that's a
little extravegant even for me though :-)).

Which is another good reason for a plow truck to have a stick :-) Plowing
hadn't occured to me but I agree, it needs to be where there is powered air
flow for such activities, just be careful how you mount it so you don't
damage the radiator. I usually run auto tranny oil till the vehicle is
retired out of lazyness and have never lost one but if you are plowing etc.
the oil will be damaged so needs to be changed more often than every 200k
miles :-)

The process you all are refering to with the propane torch is brazing. With
MIG andTIG welding a cover gas is required, but the original method of
welding alum. was with plain old oxy/acet.This is still a viable method
today if one wants to take the time to learn it.
Richard
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com

The passenger door would not open from the inside, so I opened the door
from the outside so that my father could get out of my 69 F50. Later that
day, I went to open the door for him, and it wouldn't open from the outside,
so he had to exit the truck through the drivers side door. Later on, when we
arrive at my house I attempt to open the drivers door and the handle pulls
all the way open, but the door stays closed! You should have seen the look
on my fathers face as he considered climbing out the window,... hehe. At
least I was able to roll the drivers side window down and open the door from
the outside.

Is there anything I should know before pulling the door panels? Is the
fix a simple one, or is a run to the local salvage yard required?

Am looking at a one-ton with a 5.8 "E" engine in it. Owner says 351 C. I was thinking they did not have this engine by 81.
5.8 is right for 351 size. Has fairly wide valve covers. What you guys think, is it a "C". Supposedly only 69,000 miles on it, that is what speedo says. Good looking for 81. Has long 12ft. bed on it that has electic hydro-dump. It won't dump with a full load owner says. I've heard the electrics aren't that strong or fast. He's asking $5,000. No radio, basic heater, no tilt-wheel, basic work truck. Frame-mount gas tank. Too much? Need some opinions here.
Thanks, "G"

Most of the big cabs also exchange. The floor pan may have a bigger tranny hump that comes out and MAY exchange with a 3/4 or 1-ton size cover. Although, I did once own a 76 U'haul with nice cab and it did not have the mounts in same place as the p/up. There were no front mounts off firewall and were on side by door hinge area. SO maybe not all years will change over. Most earlier years should work. Yes, these cabs are nicer, must be 'cause they're up uot of salt from roads.
One other thing, the big cab doors have heavy mirror mounts not found on p/ups unless you have a one-ton. May have to fill those holes for smaller truck.
"G"

It could be that one of the activating levers just came out of place. If
water got inside and froze the locking mechanism, and you tried to "pry" it
open with the door handle, the lever might have bent and came out. I had a
similar problem with my tail gate latch. I just got a pair of channel
locks, bent it back into the "original" position put it back into the handle
and it works like a charm again.

The passenger door would not open from the inside, so I opened the door
from the outside so that my father could get out of my 69 F50. Later that
day, I went to open the door for him, and it wouldn't open from the outside,
so he had to exit the truck through the drivers side door. Later on, when we
arrive at my house I attempt to open the drivers door and the handle pulls
all the way open, but the door stays closed! You should have seen the look
on my fathers face as he considered climbing out the window,... hehe. At
least I was able to roll the drivers side window down and open the door from
the outside.

Is there anything I should know before pulling the door panels? Is the
fix a simple one, or is a run to the local salvage yard required?

Trust Gary on forcing this input shaft into the pilot bushing. I speak from
experience. (not from not listening to him - I wished someone had posted all
this about a little over a year ago.) When installing the NP235 back into
the Muny Pit last year - the trans din't want to go and we didn't think we
were exerting THAT much force. Anyway, backed it back out a few inches, cut
some bolt heads off bolts and threaded them in to help align it - it still
didn't want to go - but after a couple swift kicks it went right up in
there. ONLY - we didn't know - when we backed it out - it pulled the pilot
bushing out. Same pilot bushing that required freezing and banging in with a
mallet. Kicking it back up in there - resulted in the pilot bushing not
being all the way in and seated, and in a cock-eyed angle. Fired her up -
couldn't get the clutch to release to put it in gear. Put it up on jack
stands - rear wheels turning in nutreal due to so much bind in the whole
works. Hitting the brakes - resulted in ALL KINDS of grinding and breaking
noise. Pulled the trans - found the pilot bushing with about an 1/8 grove
cut into it by the input shaft clutch splines, and as I said, cock-eyed.
Bottom line - just because all parts are very heavy and appear "Ford Tough"
- finese and patience is required. Unless you got plenty enough time to do
it all again of coarse.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com

Hey to all on the list, I recently purchased the truck and like tinkering with it. I am trying to replace a leaking grease seal on a rear drum brake and notice the locknut/adjusting nut, to remove the bearings, is in housed inside the wheel. My question is what size nut is it and is it hex or rounded hex. I know I will have to buy the socket but Id like to get the right one.....the first time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.....Thanks

Well fella's, and fellarett's, have to sign off here now for a spell. Sorry
to leave you hanging waiting for more Ripley's Beleive It or Not stories
about The Muny Pit. She's gotta get parked under the shade tree tomarrow
for the next six as we go get gas in Yemen just after New Years. Was
suspose to be there for Christmas, but getting December tax free I guess
wouldn't support the fiasco in Floriduh. YA'll take care and have yourself
a Warm, fat, dumb, and happy Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, Valentines
day, Presidents day, Easter, Mother's day, yada yada yada........ Wife's -
er - a little upset. Ten years married and this is our first Chirstmas apart
- but I'm not complaining. I'll be having a beer with Jim (Morrison) once
again at his grave in Paris Christmas day. Drop me a line now and then - I
can't get the post at this address: jhansen arleighburke.navy.mil
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com

Hello all,
While out shopping last night, we saw a unibody Ford pickup for sale. I
don't know specifically what years these were made, but it's early 60s and
not too common. If you are in the PA/Philadelphia area, and possibly
interested in this truck, I'll give you the details I could see at 8pm in
the dark. :)

>Hey to all on the list, I recently purchased the truck and like
>tinkering with it. I am trying to replace a leaking grease seal on a
>rear drum brake and notice the locknut/adjusting nut, to remove the
>bearings, is in housed inside the wheel. My question is what size
>nut is it and is it hex or rounded hex. I know I will have to buy
>the socket but Id like to get the right one.....the first time. Any
>help would be greatly appreciated.....Thanks
>

Mr. Finn should be able to explain all this in detail. Even has a
tool part number for you :-)

I want to replace the 16.5-inch rims on my ’70 F250 with some better looking
ones, it has the 8-lug pattern. The rubber on all the tires are so old that
they’re cracking, splitting, etc, and not road-worthy use. I was just
noticing that 16.5-inch tires are kinda pricey for me, so I was wondering if
any stock rims off of a new F350/or dare I say it, D*o*g*, or some other
year would fit the bolt pattern. Those new rims on the Fords look good, and
some of the conversion places aren’t too far away, could buy take-off wheels
and tires cheap.

Also there is a program called Desktop Dyno, which allows you to input cam
specs, exaust, engine specs, etc. It's distrubuted by the people that make
Accel/Mallory stuff.

Ken

68 F100 Ranger 360/C6/3.25NL
88 Crown Victoria 5.0/AOD

About 3 days ago on this list, there was mention of a "DynoJet"
engine simulator program as I recall. I have been doing searches on
the web for that thing, but to no avail. Anybody here know the
web site for that "DynoJet" program? Any demos available?

If it's a truck then it's not a 351C unless it's been swapped. It either has
a 351M or a 351W. If the engine hasn't been swapped then the emissions
sticker on the side of the fenderwell should say 5.8M if it's a 351M. Either
way $5G sounds a little steep.

>
> Am looking at a one-ton with a 5.8 "E" engine in it. Owner says 351 C. I
was thinking they did not have this engine by 81.
> 5.8 is right for 351 size. Has fairly wide valve covers. What you guys
think, is it a "C". Supposedly only 69,000 miles on it, that is what speedo
says. Good looking for 81. Has long 12ft. bed on it that has electic
hydro-dump. It won't dump with a full load owner says. I've heard the
electrics aren't that strong or fast. He's asking $5,000. No radio, basic
heater, no tilt-wheel, basic work truck. Frame-mount gas tank. Too much?
Need some opinions here.

> Hello all,
> While out shopping last night, we saw a unibody Ford pickup for sale. I
> don't know specifically what years these were made, but it's early 60s and
> not too common. If you are in the PA/Philadelphia area, and possibly
> interested in this truck, I'll give you the details I could see at 8pm in
> the dark. :)
>
> -don
>
> Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
> FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
> 61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters
>
>
> =============================================================
> To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

> Hello all,
> While out shopping last night, we saw a unibody Ford pickup for sale. I
> don't know specifically what years these were made, but it's early 60s and
> not too common. If you are in the PA/Philadelphia area, and possibly
> interested in this truck, I'll give you the details I could see at 8pm in
> the dark. :)
>
> -don
>
> Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
> FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
> 61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters
>
> =============================================================
> To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

Hello there guys and gals,
I'm new to this list, and rather green on Fords in general. I've been
into vintage Volkswagen buses for quite a while now, and have an
extensive knowledge in those, but not Fords. I currently own a 1971 VW
bus (hard top camper) and a 1962 Standard VW bus (all original). I'm
looking at a 1965 Ford Econoline pickup that has come up for sale again
here in town. I went and looked at it the first time it was for sale,
and took a ride in it...but then I could not afford it. It has come up
for sale again and the owner has installed a different engine (sign says
its a "306" and there used to be a 170? in there) and a different trans
(now a "C-4 auto tranny" used to be a 3-speed) and also a larger rear
end (that came out of the same van the C-4 tranny came out of). I guess
those two came out of a mid-70s long box econoline according to the
current owner. The engine has 70,000 miles on it but doesn't burn any
oil or have any leaks...neither does the tranny. Brakes are good and
recently redone, and the tranny works flawlessly. Its a nice ride and
rather quiet also....the one thing it does need is a king pin on the
passengers side. I haven't had to do a king pin yet (even on a VW) but
I'm sure that I could do it....is it a hard/time consuming thing? Where
could I get another king pin for it? or...are there kits of sorts for
this kind of thing? It will also need a new tail gate as the current
one is kind of rusty/crusty... I'll need that before I slap paint onto
it.
The truck can be seen at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.luckyboys.com/isaiah/65.htm He says
$1,000 and it can be mine. Is this a good deal?
If you're interested in my Volkswagen addiction...check out:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.luckyboys.com/isaiah/bus.htm
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.luckyboys.com/isaiah/62.htm
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.luckyboys.com/isaiah/vdh.htm

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.