Miscellaneous:

Final Recommendations:

Introduction to the AR15:

The Developmental History of the AR15 and the M16 / M4:

In the beginning there was the M16 (pictured right). It featured a fixed carry handle with a rear sight that was only adjustable for windage. The front sight was used to adjust elevation. The hand guards were triangular-shaped. The grip had no index finger groove. There wasn’t a brass deflector or no forward assist. The thin, non-chromed, 1:12 twist barrel sported a three-pronged flash suppressor. The rifle could fire in both semi-automatic and full auto. At some time in the early years the barrels became chrome lined.

The M16A1 added a forward assist. Some A1s sported a birdcage flash suppressor.

For civilian legal AR15 rifles, the “A1” designated a model with a fixed carry handle with only windage sight adjustment (seen right). Some were slick sided like the early M16 rifles. Some feature forward assists like the M16A1.

The M16A2 added the brass deflector. The fixed carry handle rear sight was improved and was adjustable for both windage and elevation. The barrel’s twist was made a faster 1:7 twist to stabilize heavier tracer rounds. Its profile remained thin in under the hand guards to facilitate the M203 grenade launcher, but was made heavier ahead of the front sight base and the barrel . Flash hider was a modified birdcage with an enclosed bottom to prevent dust from being kicked up while firing prone. Hand guards were changed from triangle to round. The pistol grip had an index finger groove. The butt stock was lengthened and strengthened. The full-auto mode was replaced with a three round burst mode.

The AR15A2 often feature barrels with either 1:7 or 1:9 twist rates, and heavy profiles under the hand guards.

The M4 carbine (pictured right) was originally developed for special operation and airborne troops. It has since become general issue. It featured a flat-top upper receiver with removable carry handle and similar adjustable rear sights to the A2, but with less elevation adjustment. The 14.5″ barrel has cutouts to accommodate the M203 grenade launcher. The flash hider and rifling twist rates are the same as the A2. The front sight base height was changed to correct sight alignment with the carry handle and for the shorter sight radius of the carbine. The feed ramps were enlarged on the barrel extension and extended into the upper receiver itself to improve reliable feeding during automatic or burst fire. Larger diameter carbine hand guards with double heat shields were added. The butt stock is collapsible. Early versions used three round burst and current production are full auto.

Civilian M4 barrels may have a 1:7, 1:8, or 1:9 twist rate. Most barrels are 16″ with a removable flash hider to meet BATE regulations. Because of the increase in barrel length, a Mil-Spec bayonet can not be properly fitted onto the rifle (pictured right). Some have 14.5″ barrels with a 1.5″ flash hider or recoil compensator permanently attached to meet the BATFE regulations. The civilian versions should still feature M4 feed ramps, dual heat-shields in the hand-guards, and grenade launcher cut-outs under the hand guard.

A3 and A4 rifles have 20″ barrels. The A3 is basically an A2 that has replaced the burst feature in favor of a return to full auto. Like the M4, the M16A4 is a flat-top upper with detachable carry handle and may feature three round burst or full-automatic fire.

Civilian AR15 clones of the M16A3 and M16A4 rifles my use either the A3 or A4 designation to describe 20″ flat-top rifles. Many commercial clones differ from mil-spec M16 rifles in that most feature 4140 chrome-moly steel instead of the military grade 4150. Many companies do not make chrome lining standard. Rifling twists are more commonly 1:9 twist, and barrel profiles are often different from military rifles made to mount grenade launchers.

Other variations that are not general issue in the military are Special Purpose Rifles (SPR). These were originally developed as special purpose uppers to give Special Operations troops the capability to provide precision fire in a compact package. Features include a free-floated, match grade, 18.5″ barrel mounted to a flat-top receiver. Purpose built uppers have now evolved into Special Purpose Rifles instead of uppers only. Variations include the Mk12 mod-0 (seen right), and the Mk12-mod-1.

National Match service rifles used by military marksmanship teams for competition must retain outward appearance of the A2 or A1 rifles but are enhanced to increase the competitive edge within the rules. They often feature match grade barrels with fast twist rates to accommodate heavy bullets with long profiles to reach out to 1000 yards. The barrels are free-floated in tubes that accommodate the standard hand-guards. Match triggers are used but can not be lighter than 4.5 lbs. Finer profile sights with finer adjustments are used. Flash hiders and bayonet lugs are optional to accommodate shooters who live in states that still retain bans on these features.

How the AR15 Works:

Direct Impingement vs. Gas Piston:

Direct Impingement:

Direct impingement is a type of gas operation for a firearm that directs gas from a fired cartridge directly into the bolt carrier or slide assembly to cycle the action.

Direct impingement style AR / M-16 style rifles have been in use by the military and civilians for over 50 years and have sent a lot of bad guys to meet their makers. Because the bled off gas that cycles the action vents into the upper receiver, some suggest that the direct impingement rifles will run hotter, and gunshot residue in the gas will dirty the action and affect reliability. I have never heard of a properly maintained direct impingement style AR failing because of this system. With quality ammunition and appropriate lubrication application you can expect a direct impingement AR style rifle to run reliably for hundreds, if not thousands of rounds. In a carbine class where the gun was run fast and hot I have fired 1300 rounds through a S&W M&P carbine without a malfunction.

Direct impingement systems are traditionally quieter when operating with a suppressor. That being said, you may experience more gas blow-back in your face and gunshot residue in upper receiver as well as down in your magazine when shooting a direct impingement AR style rifle with a suppressor. When operating with a suppressor, wear protective glasses, and be sure that the rifle is properly lubricated. Grease works great because it won’t be blown back in your face like oil.

Gas Piston:

Gas pistol style rifles do not vent dirty gas into the receiver, but rather through vents located under the handguards. This may help to keep the rifle from running as hot as a direct impingement style rifle during sustained fire. Also, the rifle may go longer before becoming noticeably dirty inside.

Generally speaking, gas piston rifles can not be quieted as much as a direct impingement style rifle when using a suppressor. Some people purchase gas pistol style rifles thinking that they won’t get gas blowback in their face when using a suppressor, but you are just as likely to get it from a piston rifle as you are a direct impingement rifle.

Generally speaking, gas piston style AR rifles are not as accurate as direct impingement style AR rifles. If you are shooting a “fighting” style rifle you probably will not be able to tell any difference between a gas piston and a direct impingement style rifle, however you won’t find any “precision” gas piston style AR rifles on the market.

There is not such a thing as a “Mil-Spec” gas piston AR style rifle. Each manufacturer will have their own proprietary system that don’t share common parts. From a prepper’s perspective, if you buy gas piston rifle(s), it is recommended that you buy and store any spare parts that could ever possibly fail on your rifle. Direct impingement style AR rifles are in abundance, and most parts are interchangeable. Parts on your gas piston style AR are not, and your rifle will be almost impossible to repair after the SHTF.

Decision Making Factors on Which System To Choose:

Conclusion:

Direct impingement style rifles have been reliably putting down bad guys for over half of a century. Spare parts are easy to find during the good times, and parts are easily cannibalized from other direct impingement style AR rifles after the SHTF. Stick with the tried and true, military style direct impingement style AR rifle. If you insist on owning piston style AR rifles, make sure to purchase spare parts now why you can.

Tiers of Quality:

Below is a list of most of the major players in the AR15 manufacturing game. The “tier one” guns are made to “mil-spec” and are certified tough enough to be used by our nation’s armed forces. The second list is very high quality rifles, that while not necessarily meeting each and every part of the military specification, are still considered tough enough to be used by some of our nation’s finest law enforcement agencies and departments, as well as civilian contractors operating abroad. Any rifle from these manufacturers should serve you well in a defensive role. The last list is lesser quality manufacturers. You should avoid these and use your hard-earned money to invest in what the professionals use.

What is Mil-Spec?

Most AR15 rifles look the same, however in terms of engineering and precision craftsmanship their quality varies greatly. There are very few that actually meet all of the qualifications to be considered 100% “mil-spec”.

Government agencies test out a rifle system before trusting their agents’ lives to them. Most can take the abuse. Some can not.

Tier One AR-15 Rifles:

Serious fighting gear, meets or exceed the stringent mil-spec requirements of the U.S. military.

Colt: Used by the U.S. military and many federal, state, and local law enforcement agencies.

Daniel Defense: Fantastic rifles built just outside of Savannah, Georgia.

Palmetto State Armory: Many parts are made at the FN Herstal plant in South Carolina where M-4 rifles are manufactured under contract for the US military. I can not say with 100% certainty if the parts are the exact same as what goes on the mil-spec military rifles. Since I don’t know enough about the origin, manufacturing process, or final assembly, I can’t place them in the coveted Tier One category, but I have only heard good things about these rifles.

Ruger AR-556: I haven’t heard anything bad about these rifles, but I haven’t heard anything good either, unless it was from a review in a magazine that also advertised for Ruger. They company has always made solid products, so I can’t help but believe that their rifles should be solid. If you have a choice between the direct-impingement model or the gas-pistol model, go with direct-impingement (DI).

Unknown or Junk:

Stay away from. You have been warned.

Bushmaster: Those manufactured in the past three years since Remington acquired them. They are made by different people and different machinery than the original Bushmaster. The new guns are only are similar in namesake. They may be better than the original, or they may be horrible. It is too early to tell. Because there are so many quality manufacturers with proven track records, stick with one of those listed above.

Bushmaster’s Carbon-15: Regardless of when it was manufactured. They are shit. Do not buy one.

Ammo in the AR-15:

The Difference Between .223 Remington and 5.56mm NATO:

.223 Remington: One of the most popular rifle cartridges among American shooters. Optimized for accuracy (varmint hunting). Can be used in 5.56mm barrels. While similar to NATO-standardized 5.56×45 ammo, .223 and 5.56 rounds are not identical, so be sure you’re shooting the appropriate caliber in your firearm.

Magazine Capacity:

5-Round Box Magazine: Typically used for hunting where local regulations limit the number of rounds in the hunting firearm to 5-rounds, or in some competitive target shooting. Useless for self-defense.

10-Round Box Magazine: Typically used in backward-ass states that limit firearm magazine capacity to 10 rounds, or in some competitive target shooting.

20-Round Box Magazine: Perfect for shooting from a prone position or from a tabletop at the range. It is a good idea to have one or two of these in your inventory to use when you zero an AR-15 so that you can rest the forend of the rifle on a beanbag or bipod and not have the magazine touch the shooting table.

30-Round Box Magazine: 30-rounds are the most common AR-15 magazine capacity. They present a good balance of reliability, capacity, mobility, and shootability.

40-Round Box Magazine: Traditionally as magazine capacity increased, their reliability decreased. In the early days of the M-16/AR-15 the 20-round magazines were the most reliable, followed closely by 30-round magazines. I am not aware of a 40-round magazine having ever been issued by the military, and most commercially available 40-rounders available to the public were very unreliable.

Magpul and several other companies have recently released 40-round polymer magazines. Magpul’s 40-round P-Mag has earned a reputation as being very reliable. Two reasons that might give you pause about 40-round magazines is that it is hard to find magazine pouches made them, and it is more problematic to shoot from a prone position or rifle range tabletop with a tall magazine.

60, 75, & 100-Round Drums: x

Aluminum Box Magazines:

Aluminum magazines for AR / M16 rifles, when manufactured under heavy quality control, are very reliable. Their weakness, however, is that their thin and delicate bodies and feed-lips can be easily damage if dropped or landed on.

Aluminum AR magazines are made in either 20 or 30-round capacity. There are a few low-grade manufacturers that have made 40-round magazines throughout history. Avoid these. Traditionally as a general rule, the lower round capacity of a magazine, the more reliability you can expect. The 20-rounders were considered the most reliable, and for a little less reliability you could get 30-round magazines. With increases in manufacturing technology and experience the 30-round magazines can be expected to be just as reliable as the 20-round magazines. Still, avoid the cheap 40-round magazines.

Aluminum magazines have been manufactured by numerous manufacturers over the years. They are not all equal in quality of the stamping and welding tolerances.

The manufacturer’s logo will be stamped or engraved into the bottom of the floor-plate of the magazine (shown left). Avoid magazines that do not have any type of manufacturer’s mark on the floor-plate. There is no way of telling who made them or how reliable they are.

Stay away from unbelievable deals on used G.I. aluminum magazines at gun-shows and internet listings. In the military “used” translates to “abused”. There is a very good chance that the magazine lips may be bent out of spec, or the spring may be worn out. New quality magazines are now too plentiful and inexpensive for you to take the chance with acquiring junk.

How To Disassemble a “G.I.” Aluminum Box Magazine:

For a thorough AR-15 aluminum box magazine review and buyer’s guide, be sure to check out:

Polymer Box Magazines:

The AR15 / M16 rifle system was originally designed to use magazines manufactured from lightweight, thin aluminum. It was problematic to design a polymer AR magazine thin enough to hold a high volume of rounds, fit into the rifle, and still maintaining strength, integrity, and heat resistance of the magazine body and feed-lips. The magazine would need to hold together under fully loaded spring pressure, and then not melt when fired from hot, automatic weapon. Eventually advances in polymer manufacturing technology allowed the creation of plastic magazines thin enough and strong enough to be used AR /M16 weapon systems.

For a thorough AR-15 polymer magazine review and buyer’s guide, be sure to check out:

Drum Magazines:

I am not a big fan of drum magazines. They are heavy and awkward. Most are very unreliable as they have delicate and complicated mechanisms that are prone to jam up. They are all expensive. You can typically purchase 10 to 15 quality 30-round stick magazines for the price of one drum.

For a thorough AR-15 drum magazine review and buyer’s guide, be sure to check out:

Junk:

Introduction To Sights and Optics For AR-15 Rifles:

Older AR-15 Rifles With Fixed Carry Handle:

Fixed Carry Handle Sights:

If you have an older rifle with a fixed (non-removable) carry handle then you can make adjustments to the rear sight that will allow you to have settings for a 25 yard, 50 yard, and 100 yard zero. You will also still be able to use the 300 to 800 meter settings. To learn several different methods to zero the sights on a fixed carry handle rifle, including the method use by the US Army, as well as the method used by the US Marine Corps, check out:

Rear Flat-Top And Fixed Factory Front Sight Base (FSB) Configuration:

Most AR15 style rifles built in the past ten to fifteen years do not have a built in carry handle / rear sight assembly, but rather a “Picatinny rail” that allows the user to have a choice as to mount holographic sights, red-dot sights, magnified optics, simple rear sights, or even a removable carry handle / rear sight assembly. These are referred to as “flat top” rifles (pictured right). In the past, anyone wanting to mount optics on top of their AR-15 style rifles were forced to use some type of adaptor to mount their optics on top of the fixed carry handle. This set the optics too high to take advantage of the 5.56x45mm NATO rounds fairly flat trajectory, and it set the optic too high for the shooter to get a good cheek weld on the stock. Hillary Clinton is a lying bitch. The flat-top design allows you to mount your optics so that the aiming reticle is the same height above bore as the tradition fixed “iron sights”.

Removable Carry Handle Use With Flat-Top AR-15 Rifles With Fixed FSB:

There are removable carry handles that fit on flat-top rifles. It is possible to mount optics on top of the carry handle, but this is inefficient and mounts the reticle or crosshairs of the optic higher than the optimal 2.5 inches above the bore (the height of the front sight and the rear carry handle sight). If you want to mount optics on the rifle, remove the carry handle and mount them directly to the rifle. If you want to use the A2 style sights then check out:

The vast majority of BUIS are manufactured to match the height of a Mil-Spec front sight base (FSB). If you want to add a Mil-Spec carry handle or a BUIS to a rifle with a shorter “commercial” grade (non-Mil-Spec) front sight base (FSB), then you will have to replace the stock front sight post with a slightly taller part. If you don’t, then you will not be able to raise your front sight post enough to zero the rifle. None of this is an issue if your rifle has a “F” marked (Mil-Spec height) front sight base (as seen right), or is completely flat-top and requires both a front and rear backup sight, as discussed next.

If your rifle has a “F” marked Mil-Spec front sight base, then you have nothing to worry about. You will simply want to add a quality rear sight.

If your rifle’s front sight base is not Mil-Spec and does not have a raised “F” on it, then it will be the wrong height for your new rear sight, and you may have trouble zeroing your rifle after adding the rear sight. You most likely will have to change out the front sight post to a slightly taller version so as to match up with your rear sight. You will most likely encounter this issue with Bushmaster and DPMS rifles. Details below.

Zero the sights for a 50 yard zero.

Front and Rear Flat-Top Configuration (no fixed FSB):

While some flat-top rifles will be manufactured with the traditional triangle FSB, others may be manufactured a rail on top of the gas block so that you can add a backup sight of your choice. Most front backup sights will fold down and out-of-the-way until you need them. This rifle configuration is sometimes referred to as an Optic Ready Carbine (ORC).

Some AR-15 rifles are manufactured or modified to have a railed forend that extends and covers where the triangle front sight would normally sit.

Non-Magnified Sight Use On AR-15 Rifles With A Front and Rear Flat-Top Configurations:

If you mount an optic, the front and rear backup sights can be folded down and out-of-the-way until they are needed (primary optic becomes inoperative).

Backup Iron Sights (BUIS) On Flat-Top Rifles:

Backup Iron Sights (BUIS) Fundamentals:

Backup sights are intended to be used should the primary optic fail (break or dead battery). Most rear backup sights are only capable of windage adjustments. Elevation must be established with adjustments to the front sight. Most backup sights do not have the fine adjustments like those on a carry handle. Zero them as close as possible, but don’t expect perfection. Zero your backup sights for point-of-aim / point-of-impact at 50 yards. Be sure to use Loctite thread locker when mounting your backup sights. I promise that the screws will eventually loosen during shooting and will lose their zero. More details are discussed further down with Flat-Top Rifles With Backup Iron Sights (BUIS).

Backup Iron Sight (BUIS) Use On Flat-Top AR-15 Rifles With Fixed FSB:

x

Exclusive BUIS Use With A Front and Rear Flat-Top Configuration (no optic):

You may choose to simply use the backup sights exclusively without any optic. You can mount backup a backup rear sight where it should go, and then mount a front sight all of the way forward on the rail (as seen in the photo to the right).

Non-Magnified Red-Dot Sights & Holographic Sights On The AR-15:

Red-dot and holographic sights make it much easier to quickly acquire and hit targets than “iron sights”. Shooting from CQB distances out to 300 meters can greatly be aided with the use of red-dot or holographic optics. They are much easier to shoot with than traditional iron sights. Examples are discussed on that page.

Unless the optic is equipped with some type of bullet drop compensation (BDC) then you will want to zero the optic for point-of-aim / point-of-impact at 50 yards. Be sure to use Loctite thread locker when mounting your optic. I promise that the screws will eventually loosen during shooting and will lose their zero.

Always keep spare batteries for the optic with the rifle. I really like Magpul’s MOE grips (pictured right) as they have a compartment where you can store spare batteries for your optic or weapons light. I place the battery in a small plastic arts & crafts “crack bag” before storing it in the grip. (If you replace your grips, be very careful as there is a very small spring and pin that may fall out when you remove the original grip. Be careful not to damage the spring when installing the new grip. Be sure to add a dot of Loctite to the screw that holds the grip to the rifle’s receiver.)

Be sure to add a set of backup sights (discussed above) as batteries can go dead and electronics can fail or be destroyed. With backup sights you will be able to stay in the fight.

Unless the optic is equipped with some type of bullet drop compensation (BDC) then you will want to zero the optic for point-of-aim / point-of-impact at 50 yards. More details are discussed further down with What Distance to Zero Non-Magnified Optics & Sights.

Zero Your BUIS and Non-Magnified Optics:

What Distance To Zero Your BUIS and Non-Magnified Optics:

If you use the front and rear backup sights exclusively, or use a non-magnified red-dot or holographic optic then you will want to zero your rifle so that the bullet impacts where you aim at 50 yards. This will give you the flattest trajectory possible with 5.56mm (.223 Remington) ammunition fired from a rifle with sights that sit 2.4″ to 2.5″ above the center of the bore. For further explanation, skip down to What Distance to Zero Non-Magnified Optics & Sights.

If you are going to use a non-magnified red-dot or holographic optic, first zero your optic and then zero your BUIS. Your optic has much finer adjustments than the BUIS. As stated above, zero your optic so that the bullet impacts where you aim at 50 yards. Zeroing your BUIS is as simple as looking through your deployed sights with your correctly zeroed optic turned on. Adjust the backup sights so that the optic’s reticle dot is bisected by the tip of the front sight post. You don’t have to fire a shot to zero the backup sights, although prudence would suggest that you verify your zero on the range with your optic turned off. Keep in mind that since the backup sights do not have as fine of adjustments as the optic that you might not be able to get the sights perfectly aligned with the optic. This is okay. Just get it close enough. They are backup sights. They won’t be perfect, but they will be close enough that you can continue the fight if your optic fails.

Co-Witness Iron Sights and Optics:

Co-witness means that with your backup sights match up with your primary optic. Your aiming reticle will appear to bisect the top of the front sight post. It is easy to co-witness backup sights if you first zero your primary optic. After the primary optic is zeroed, simply raise the backup sights into shooting position. After verifying that the weapon is unloaded, aim the rifle at a point approximately the same distance that the rifle is zeroed (50 yards). Using a front sight tool for the front sight, and the adjustment knob for the rear sight, you will want to adjust your backup sights so that the reticle of the already zeroed primary optic is bisected by the top of the front sight post of the backup sight. Keep your co-witnessed backup sights folded down until needed.

As discussed earlier, if you are going to install any type of electronic aiming device, it would be prudent to install some type of backup sights. You will also want the backup sights to be zeroed at 50 yards. With the optic and the backup sights properly installed and zeroed, it will look like the aiming dot of the optic is bisected by the top of the front sight post. The sights and optic will then be considered “co-witnessed”.

The easiest way to co-witness your optic and backup sights will be to carefully zero your optic first on the range so that your bullets are hitting exactly where you aim at 50 yards. You want to zero your optic first because it can be more finely adjusted than most backup sights. Next you will zero your backup sights. If your optic is correctly zeroed then you won’t have to fire a single shot to zero your backup sights. With the majority of backup sight you can not adjust the elevation of the rear sight. You must use a front sight post adjustment tool to raise or lower the front sight until it appears, when you are looking through the front and rear backup sight, that the optic’s reticle is horizontally bisected by the tip of the front sight post.

How To Zero Your BUIS and Non-Magnified Optics:

If you use the front and rear backup sights exclusively, or use a non-magnified red-dot or holographic optic then you will want to zero your rifle so that the bullet impacts where you aim at 50 yards. This will give you the flattest trajectory possible with 5.56mm (.223 Remington) ammunition fired from a rifle with sights that sit 2.4″ to 2.5″ above the center of the bore. For further explanation, skip down to What Distance to Zero Non-Magnified Optics & Sights.

If you are going to use a non-magnified red-dot or holographic optic, first zero your optic and then zero your BUIS. Your optic has much finer adjustments than the BUIS. As stated above, zero your optic so that the bullet impacts where you aim at 50 yards. Zeroing your BUIS is as simple as looking through your deployed sights with your correctly zeroed optic turned on. Adjust the backup sights so that the optic’s reticle dot is bisected by the tip of the front sight post. You don’t have to fire a shot to zero the backup sights, although prudence would suggest that you verify your zero on the range with your optic turned off. Keep in mind that since the backup sights do not have as fine of adjustments as the optic that you might not be able to get the sights perfectly aligned with the optic. This is okay. Just get it close enough. They are backup sights. They won’t be perfect, but they will be close enough that you can continue the fight if your optic fails.

Magnified Optics On The AR-15:

AR-15 Magnified Optics Fundamentals:

Non-magnified red-dot and holographic optics are perfect for shooting at targets less than 250 – 300 yards, but at greater distances you will be greatly aided with a magnified optic. Typically the greater the magnification, then the less the field of view, or the less that you will be able to see left and right of your target, thus degrading your situational awareness. This is not good for combat / defensive shooting. 1-4x variable magnification optics are great for targets out to 300 to 500 yards, although man-size targets at 500 yards are pretty small. If you plan on routinely shooting at targets 500 yards and beyond then you might benefit from a 1-6x variable magnification optic. More details are discussed further down with Magnified Optics On The AR-15. More magnified optics information is available on Savannah Arsenal’s Tactical Rifle Optics page.

Non-magnified red-dot and holographic optics are perfect for shooting at targets less than 250 – 300 yards, but at greater distances you will be greatly aided with a magnified optic. 1-4x variable magnification optics are great for targets out to 300 to 500 yards, although man-size targets at 500 yards are pretty small with only 4x magnification. If you plan on routinely shooting at targets 500 yards and beyond then you might benefit from a 1-6x variable magnification optic. Keep in mind that while some magnification can help you identify and prosecute threats at intermediate distances, too much magnification can limit your peripheral vision and affect your ability to detect threats. It is recommended to limit the magnification power of optics intended for tactical/fighting rifles to 4x magnification. Examples of magnified optics are also discussed on the page linked above.

Magnified Optics with Bullet Drop Compensation (BDC):

If you are using a magnified optic that has bullet drop compensation (BDC) stadia markings for .223 Remington / 5.56mm NATO ammunition then you should zero the rifle so that bullet impact is appropriate for corresponding distance’s marking in the optic (at 100 meters the bullet’s point-of-impact hit where you aim with the 100 meter stadia marking). The rifle should then hit point-of-aim at 200 meters when aiming with the 200 meter stadia marking, 300 meters with the 300 marking, etc.

Magnified Optics with Non-Specific Stadia Markings:

If you have a magnified optic with non-specific markings, such as mil-dot, you may choose to zero the rifle at 50 yards. With a 50 yard zero you know that your rounds will hit within a 2.5″ circle from 10 yards out to approximately 250 yards (discussed further down). For shooting greater than that distance you will have to shoot at known distances and experiment to figure out how much hold-over you need for a given distance (shoot, observe where the round hit, and keep adjusting until you know how many dots to hold-over for that particular distance. Record the rifle’s “dope” on a card or piece of paper that will stay with the rifle. You will forget the information and will be glad that you kept it written down.

Magnified Optics with Simple Crosshairs or Reticle:

Simply zero the rifle at 50 yards. You will hit within a 2″ circle from 10 yards out past 225 yards without any holdover.

Weapons Manipulation:

AR-15 Proper Cheek Weld and Eye Relief:

When shooting with magnified optics, red-dot or holographic optics, or iron sights, for proper eye relief you should have your face far enough forward on the fixed stock or retractable stock tube so that your nose is almost touching the charging handle.

In the photo to the right the shooter has their eye excessively far back from the rear sight. This is a telltale of an inexperienced shooter.

AR-15 Trigger Control:

AR15 Loading & Reloading:

AR-15 Accessories and Gear — How To Set Up Your Rifle:

.22LR Conversion Kits:

Using either a dedicated .22LR upper receiver or a .22LR conversion kit is a great way to teach a new AR shooter the fundamentals of shooting the rifle without the intimidating loud noise of the full size battle ammunition, and for the experienced shooter to maintain proficiency at a fraction of the cost of shooting full size .223/5.56 ammunition.

To shoot .22LR ammunition out of an AR platform, you basically have two options. You can buy a dedicated upper receiver/barrel set, or buy a .22LR conversion kit that simply replaces your bolt carrier and fires the .22LR bullets through your AR barrel. The dedicated upper’s barrel will usually be a 1 in 12″ twist (as opposed to your AR’s 1 in 7″ or 1 in 9″ twist). The 1 in 12″ twist will result in a better stabilized .22LR bullet in flight which may result in slightly better accuracy. .22LR rounds fired from a conversion kit and through your AR’s barrel may or may not be as accurate as those fired out of a dedicated upper, but I have been very satisfied with the results using the simple and less expensive conversion kit. I can easily hit coke cans at 50 yards, and a full size paper plate at 100 yards. This is good enough for training purposes.

I live and swear by my CMMG brand .22LR conversion kit. When properly maintained, it is both reliable and accurate. They are around $160 and usually come with a 25 round magazine.

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