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I may take you up on that offer, except I may have aleak...Can I use the partsource stuff to seal it before using your stuff?

Thanks,

Dave

Another thing about those little cans is that you will never get the exact amount of refridgerant in the system, each car calls for it's own amount to operate as it as designed.

On such a new your taking a risk with those stop leak sealers.....They can possibly clog up your system and cause even more expensive repairs. For example it can clog up your condensers or evaporator and those are expensive items to replace. (As with all Stop Leaks, they usually cause more problems than they are worth and usually only considered a quick fix)

If you really insist on doing it yourself, get the Dye....buy the glasses, find the leak, fix the leak yourself.

After the leak is fixed, i recommend getting it filled properly, because it is far better to Vacume the system before filling it. (you can't do this without the machine).

By just filling it with the stuff in the can, you can trap moisture in the system as well as air, which will cause it not to preform as well as it should.

Fix the leak yourself, but unless you have a machine to vacume and fill it properly, i suggest you get it filled properly by a shop.

Low pressure port with compressor not running was ~80 psi. (pressure is very dependent on ambient temp) This told me my system does not have a leak, and the R-134a level is good.

On my car, 2001 530 (MS43) the DME tests the aux fan to make sure it spins. If it fails the test, it set a code (125) in the DME. This is not an OBD code, and a generic OBD reader will not see it. I used carsoft.

My Aux fan shorted out right at the fan motor, melted all the insulation on the wires, and popped Fuse 75 (50A).

A/C is not rocket science, however it does require special tools and gauges to do it right, all of which your average home mechanic does not have.

For a modern R-134a fitted car I would not be adding Redtek to "top up" the charge. Take it to a shop and have them leak test it or do it yourself to check your system. Then have it evacuated and filled with the proper amount of 134a once you know everything works fine.

However if you have an older R-12 system then by all means use the Redtek stuff after evacuating the old R-12 (at a shop), and leak and vacuum testing it. Or better yet buy some R-12 on eBay (that's right you can still buy it there)