Within 90 minutes of Portland is some truly amazing riding. In the Hood River area, head to Syncline. This spider's web of wonderful trails spreads across a beautiful ridge overlooking the Columbia River. The trails are to die for, and the following words apply: fast, tight, steep, smooth, open, twisty, trees, meadows, technical, rocky. Trails here often alternate between distinct mediums in the blink of an eye--from super-buttery to super-technical. More Info: discoverbicycles.com/trails.cfm; camba.infoTrailhead: From downtown Hood River, cross the river via the toll bridge. Turn right onto Hwy. 14. About 4 miles after the town of Bingen, take a left on Courtney Rd., then an immediate left into the parking lot. The trailhead is ahead on the left.

About 5 minutes outside Hood River is a whole system of stunt-rich trails. Jumps, drops, ladder bridges of all shapes and angles and magnificent teeter-totters dot the landscape of Post Canyon. Though primarily known for its freeride circuits, there are also XC trails in the area. More Info:gfra.org; mtviewcycles.com. Trailhead: From downtown Hood River go west on Cascade Street, then left on Country Club Rd. At Post Canyon Rd., turn right; just when Post Canyon turns to dirt, park and look for the obvious but unmarked trailhead.

SHOP: Portland has a huge cycling culture and fantastic shops. Fat Tire Farm (2714 N.W. Thurman; 503/222-FARM) is heaven for mountain bikers. It's filled with all the latest and greatest bikes and equipment. River City Cycles (706 S.E. MLK Blvd.; 503/233-5973) is a massive, two-story shop with an indoor test track and a highly professional and friendly staff.

GRUB: Portland is absolutely bathing in restaurants, and has yet to be overrun by chains. For reasonably priced food and a hip atmosphere, check out the Blue Hour (250 NW 13th Ave.; 503/226-3394). We dug the linguine with Mexican white shrimp, chased with a Chimay Red Label Trappist ale. Higgins (1239 SW Broadway; 503/222-9070) has a sophisticated ambience and great eats. Unfortunately, it's not cheap. Mother's Bistro (409 SW 2nd Ave.; 503/464-1122) has world-class breakfasts like egg scrambles, French toast and salmon hash. Wash it down with any of a variety of French-pressed coffees.

CRASH: Go deluxe at the Hotel Vintage Plaza (422 SW Broadway; 800/263-2305). Go really deluxe by reserving a Starlight Room ($159/ night), where an entire wall is made up of angled windows that allow you to look up at the night sky from your bed. There's also free Wi-Fi and an excellent in-hotel restaurant called Pazzo. Sleep cheaper at the ultra-hip Jupiter Hotel (800 E. Burnside; 877/800-0004), where the young and beautiful congregate to dance and be ogled at the hotel's Doug Fir lounge and club. Room rates range from $79 to $89 a night--that includes Wi-Fi.