Full Bore contracts Shinko to produce tires for them at their specs. FB widened the knobby gap and used a different rubber compound. The early ones to come out were reported to have very poor mileage. FB and Shinko redid the tire and now the reports are even better mileage than Shinkos.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PTRider

The tires that pass the quality control tests get the Full Bore label and the others get the Shinko label???

The only remaining odd sensation that I notice is that when one banks the bike into a curve, a bit of active countersteering is required to bring the bike back out of the curve. The bike doesn't seem to want to bring itself out of a corner naturally. I never had to do this with the Battlewings - it's as if the "self righting" feature of the bike is disabled with the Full Bores. It could be the triangular tire profile vs a more rounded profile (Battlwing), it doesn't affect performance in any way, but it is a noticeable, but subtle effect. I do find that if I help steer by using my hips, as well as countersteering, the bike does effortlessly complete corners with little or no thought.

I think you'll find the handling to go from a quirk to a feature! I only got about 3500 out of my rear. I hope what bill says is true. keep us posted as to your mileage. I would love to go back to this tire.

The early ones to come out were reported to have very poor mileage. FB and Shinko redid the tire and now the reports are even better mileage than Shinkos.

What would be considered "early"? Anyone have any dates?
I just received a set of M40's & the front is dated 1912 and the rear is 0711, over a years difference. Just my luck to get an early rear....lol

the Full Bore versions are V-rated. Not sure what kind of rubber compound and/or tire carcass alterations were done to achieve the higher speed rating.

I found this web page about how auto tire speed ratings were determined. It's interesting, and I don't know how it compares to motorcycle tire speed ratings. Barry is a tire engineer for an unnamed tire manufacturer.Barry's Tire Tech
"To get a tire to pass an H speed rating almost requires the tire to have an overlay - commonly called a "cap ply" and nylon is a commonly used material.

"This overlay restricts the growth of the tire due to centrifugal forces as well as the movement caused by the standing wave. Not only does this result in reduced stresses in the tire, it also reduces heat generation.

"Adding further overlay layers results in higher speed capability. That is, you achieve higher speed capability with just changes in construction. Rubber compound changes are almost incidental."

Hopefully this isn't too old of a thread, but I just ordered a pair of these for my Vee. I just went through a pair of Shinko 705s. Front is cupping badly but lots of life left; rear is toast with belt showing through and one of the blocks is tearing finally. I think I got 9,500 miles out of my rear which is outstanding if you ask me. Mostly tarmac and super slab here in SoCal.

Hopefully this isn't too old of a thread, but I just ordered a pair of these for my Vee. I just went through a pair of Shinko 705s. Front is cupping badly but lots of life left; rear is toast with belt showing through and one of the blocks is tearing finally. I think I got 9,500 miles out of my rear which is outstanding if you ask me. Mostly tarmac and super slab here in SoCal.

I was just going through the messages on these. I haven't been on here since last summer. I got a pair and like most thought the price was worth checking out. I got them mounted up and the weather went south so I haven't turned a wheel yet. This weekend I hope to get them out. I'm thinking of riding the Cabin Fever Road Enduro in Zanesville, OH on April 14th and was looking for guidance on tire pressures for riding gravel roads. My enduro/dirt bike buddy insists that I want low pressure but said I should check out the lists for PSI. Not finding anything much different than street PSI Im afraid. I had Tourances on it before which I put on in Colorado and ran throughout the west and another season in Ohio before they were gone. Can't say anything positive about them on the gravel back roads though.

I was just going through the messages on these. I haven't been on here since last summer. I got a pair and like most thought the price was worth checking out. I got them mounted up and the weather went south so I haven't turned a wheel yet. This weekend I hope to get them out. I'm thinking of riding the Cabin Fever Road Enduro in Zanesville, OH on April 14th and was looking for guidance on tire pressures for riding gravel roads. My enduro/dirt bike buddy insists that I want low pressure but said I should check out the lists for PSI. Not finding anything much different than street PSI Im afraid. I had Tourances on it before which I put on in Colorado and ran throughout the west and another season in Ohio before they were gone. Can't say anything positive about them on the gravel back roads though.

If you are going to be on gravel, I would run 32 front and rear and see how she does. I don't think you will need to go down more than that. That said, I don't have a TON of experience running on gravel with these tires.

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