It would be nice if Carl Moore could set up himself, or someone of his choosing, and carry out repairs - he does have all the technical documentation on these units and plenty of experience of working on them.
Carl - you listening???

I don’t think it’s as easy as selling it and waiting for someone else to come along with some thing better, you have to remember that Carl was selling these at a loss in the end, if anybody come out with something as good, do you think they will sell at the same price point I don’t
It will be over 2k in the current market the Drone Has left a very big void and dropping it or downgrading it is a bloody own goal. I won’t be selling either of mine anytime soon.
the next best thing to it is a Photon, I have one of the latest models it’s ok but there’s a reason it’s only £600

I get your point but what happens if yours needs repaired?
Is the warranty still going to be upheld? (The warranty was always an issue with them anyway)

There are no doubt replacements being worked on or tested now.

Like you say though, the new Photon is ok but was functionally designed by a moron!
Such a stupid faff to change the magnification!
And it’s still focus fussy.

I spoke to TJacks last year about them doing a better lens with straight x10 magnification as the unit is generally ok for size and they said they had no plans to do one.
Bet they reconsider now! If they don’t at least consider it then it’s not going to help them out or us.

Most of the warranty issues with the Drone is holding Zero, which i have a solution to and so far since doing i have made 35 shots without a miss,
i think most of the ones for sale are because of this reason IMHO otherwise why would you sell it for something else. When the warranty runs out do we just rush out and buy something new just so it's under warranty, i fully intend to get the value out of mine for a while yet.

With the Photon your right, the first thing you have to do is go and buy some adjustable mounts, which i think is a very poor show and you can't adjust it like the older one, even just sticking on a .177 air rifle it runs out of vertical adjustment @35 yards, if your are shooting out to say 300 yards you shouldn't need to put it on a 20 moa mount so you can zero it, the IR comes on when you switch on the unit and there is nowhere in the menu to disable on board ir, the image is to blurry without putting a decent lens on it.

Do away with rubbish like on board recording and wifi then spend the money on a better lens, but it's not just the Photon that has a crap lens, one of my Keeper mates has a Pulsar LRF870 which is just as crap and was almost the same Money as the Drone at one point.

Everyone bumped their gums about the Drone even me at one point, but it will be missed that's for sure.

Kevgun wrote:Most of the warranty issues with the Drone is holding Zero, which i have a solution to and so far since doing i have made 35 shots without a miss

Kevgun,

Whats your 'holding zero' solution mate?

I'm just about to mount my DP 10x on to a new Tikka T3X and am keen to get it right first time... to get decent eye relief and prevent the bolt from striking the DP mount, Iv'e shifted the DP to its rearward position in the mount. I'm also planning to get rid of the QR levers and replace them with high tensile bolts... although, I'm not yet sure what size bolt or torque is best.

Hi Darren, if you look at the Drone 15 it had an additional support for the Front Lens almost like a scope ring with a small pillar underneath, i just machine up a aluminium ring with a ID of 46.17mm which is the diameter of the lens on the Drone 10 just in front of the focus control,

I then cut the ring in half to form a scope mount then i make up a pillar or bracket and attach it to the mount part that fits to the rifle, i have done 3 now and they all work ok, the only issue i can see which did not worry me, when drilling a 5 mm countersunk hole in the bottom mount it might void the warranty,
but i would argue that the Drone 15 already has the hole. In my opinion the Drone 10 should have had this anyway i wonder how many are used in the Forward position, this mod only works when the scope mounted in the rearward position.

I did get very frustrated with it, and almost sold it on, but i wouldn't want somebody else having the same problems as i did. I know there was backup
and i did speak to Carl, but it's a pain sending it backwards and forwards, so i thought i would sort it myself.

i use 4mm Stainless steel bolts and keep the original nuts and torque down to 3.5nm i can take it off the rifle now ,then fit it back on and it shoots within .5moa so good enough.

Kevgun wrote:Most of the warranty issues with the Drone is holding Zero, which i have a solution to and so far since doing i have made 35 shots without a miss

Kevgun,

Whats your 'holding zero' solution mate?

I'm just about to mount my DP 10x on to a new Tikka T3X and am keen to get it right first time... to get decent eye relief and prevent the bolt from striking the DP mount, Iv'e shifted the DP to its rearward position in the mount. I'm also planning to get rid of the QR levers and replace them with high tensile bolts... although, I'm not yet sure what size bolt or torque is best.

Any additional tips for rock solid mounting would be much appreciated

Cheers,
Darren.

Darren.
The only issue I ever had with POI shift(4" low at 100yds) on the DP was when it was mounted in its rear most position, so be wary of that. But it was also mounted on an aluminium weaver rail on my Steyr Prohunter. Since moving the DP forward in its mount and changing to a MAK steel Rail on the Steyr I have had no problems.

Kevgun wrote:Most of the warranty issues with the Drone is holding Zero, which i have a solution to and so far since doing i have made 35 shots without a miss

Kevgun,

Whats your 'holding zero' solution mate?

I'm just about to mount my DP 10x on to a new Tikka T3X and am keen to get it right first time... to get decent eye relief and prevent the bolt from striking the DP mount, Iv'e shifted the DP to its rearward position in the mount. I'm also planning to get rid of the QR levers and replace them with high tensile bolts... although, I'm not yet sure what size bolt or torque is best.

Any additional tips for rock solid mounting would be much appreciated

Cheers,
Darren.

Darren.
The only issue I ever had with POI shift(4" low at 100yds) on the DP was when it was mounted in its rear most position, so be wary of that. But it was also mounted on an aluminium weaver rail on my Steyr Prohunter. Since moving the DP forward in its mount and changing to a MAK steel Rail on the Steyr I have had no problems.