Off the Dubai plane at ten in the morning feeling like I’d been through a washing machine and the driver who meets me says, “I’ve got an idea”. His idea was to change the whole itinerary for the next two days. Ok, I thought, he knows best, and he did. He took me out to the desert ‘castles’ of Amra and El-Harranna, and from then on I knew Jordan was just going to be magical.