I just hacked a new black madcatz pad, it was common ground but it was a PCB that didn't have a mapping on Slagcoin. Also it had a new trigger setup that required a bit more work than just a resistor to get working.

Yeah, I've seen those. And those triggers are a pain...

I like the new Xbox 360 Microsoft wired / wireless. Common ground, except that RT and LT have their own ground.

I just hacked a new black madcatz pad, it was common ground but it was a PCB that didn't have a mapping on Slagcoin. Also it had a new trigger setup that required a bit more work than just a resistor to get working.

1.) Do LC and RC stand for left and right click (of the analog sticks)? 2.) It looks like there are two common grounds on the front, and maybe four on the back(?). Do I need to run a ground wire from each of these, or are only certain of these commons used for certain buttons?

1.) Do LC and RC stand for left and right click (of the analog sticks)? 2.) It looks like there are two common grounds on the front, and maybe four on the back(?). Do I need to run a ground wire from each of these, or are only certain of these commons used for certain buttons?

Thanks for your help.

Am I asking questions that have been answered a thousand times elsewhere? I don't want to be that guy.

1.) Do LC and RC stand for left and right click (of the analog sticks)? 2.) It looks like there are two common grounds on the front, and maybe four on the back(?). Do I need to run a ground wire from each of these, or are only certain of these commons used for certain buttons?

Thanks for your help.

Am I asking questions that have been answered a thousand times elsewhere? I don't want to be that guy.

Hey.... there are two common grounds. One is a red circle, one is a pink circle. There just happens to be multiple places you can pull the pink or red ground from. you just need one of each.

Too late. This thread recommended the madcatz since it has common ground and large contacts, and I paid quite a premium for it too

Its completely done except for the triggers. So if I leave them in place, and attach 2x4.7k resistors to the outer 2 contact points, it may work? Which one does that method not work on, the RT or LT?

Did you remove the triggers? What have you done so far, and I can tell you how to proceed.

I am in a similar boat. I removed the trigger plastic housings, but not the electronic components.

Also, this will be my second 360 project. The first one I did just last week, and I used the advice from this thread. I'd like to do the triggers on this one, but if it's really more trouble than it's worth, then that's okay, too.

I really need to find two pads with common ground, since the cables I'm using only allow for 14 signals + 1 ground (for piggybacking other pads)..Searching the auction sites for those weird madcatz arcade gamesticks, as these have common ground, and look very easy to hack.

but ... if I get some official pads with multiple ground, can I link the grounds on a pad together, and solder my ground cable to that?

Too late. This thread recommended the madcatz since it has common ground and large contacts, and I paid quite a premium for it too

Its completely done except for the triggers. So if I leave them in place, and attach 2x4.7k resistors to the outer 2 contact points, it may work? Which one does that method not work on, the RT or LT?

Just wanted to give another thumb up to the new madcatz. Common ground and large contacts made it very easy, even for me that can't really solder. Picked up 2 whites one at Gamestop.

The major tip I learned here that help plenty was adding the solder to the contact and NOT the wire. With the madcatz, I just use the iron to touch the solder until I get a big enough piece, then gently drop it on the contact, repeat for each. After that was done, prep the wires by stripping the needed length. Finally, use the iron to touch the solder on the contact, as soon as it melt, shove the wire in and repeat. BTW, I skipped the trigger as these will be only use for fighting games. I have wireless controller for other games.

If you are like me, definitely give the madcatz a go, as they are easy....

Forgot to mention another technique I use. I sat the board on 2 2in masking tape, which held it nicely in place for a hands free operation. I have shaky hands, so for any section that I felt I can't control my hands, I brace my hand on another roll of tape and that seems to work great.

I have tried this and so far have wrecked two controllers, the first time one of the button contacts lifted up from the pcb. On the other controler same thing but on one of the tiny d pad contacts. When soldering it went well at first but then it seem like I was holding the solder forever waiting for it to melt I have a 20w/40w iron and I was using it on 20w I tried 40w after the pcb was ruined just to see and it still took a while to melt the solder and actually melted the pcb. I don't know what I am doing wrong.

follow the trace out away from the damage and scrape it down to the copper and solder onto it or follow the trace to the next component or via and solder to it that way the controller is still usable if you lifted a pad or trace.

it also helps to put a dot of fresh solder onto the pcb first then tin the end of the wire with a tiny bit of solder and if you toach the two together for 2 seconds they will bond good.

if it takes 4 seconds or more to melt solder get a new solder iron there cheaper then the controllers you will go through trying with a bad one

the official common ground 360 controllers use 10K 1/4 watt for the analog pots to bypass for a deadzone.

Lots of great advice in this thread, really helpful. I've actually commissioned HarumaN to hack a wireless controller for me, and he's been incredibly patient and informative throughout. I would, however, like to mess around a bit myself and try building my second stick with a wired pad, as I've found a couple of USB passthroughs lying around that I can mount in a case for cable convenience.

I noticed that the official pads, as HarumaN mentioned, have two commons, one for the majority and another for the triggers, circled in red and pink respectively. I'm going to be picking up one of the Madcatz wired pads to get my feet wet, and just wanted to make sure that I'm understanding correctly.

I'm not worried about hacking the triggers, I just want to make a fight stick for a friend of mine. The Madcatz pad has common ground as I understand it, so that means that I would only need one ground wire soldered to any one of the three red-circled soldering points on the pcb? I just wanted to make sure it wasn't broken up by "button groups". Also, the 5v point by the resistors is only related to setting up the triggers, correct?

this is a great thread - I just picked up SF4 for 360 and am supremely frustrated I can't do half the stuff I can with my SF2 cabinet.

my soldering skills are terrible to say the least, not to mention there aren't any gamestops in Canada. I'm hoping to PM HarumaN to solder something up for me ... jsut worried about shipping to Canada.

this is a great thread - I just picked up SF4 for 360 and am supremely frustrated I can't do half the stuff I can with my SF2 cabinet.

my soldering skills are terrible to say the least, not to mention there aren't any gamestops in Canada. I'm hoping to PM HarumaN to solder something up for me ... jsut worried about shipping to Canada.

was about to order something until the wife pointed out the 3 wireless and 1 wired controller I have ... so I might give this a shot on my own - hahahahha ... will probably be ordering one in a couple of weeks!

here's a stupid question though - what time of wire are you guys using? any special type of solder? lead-free? does it even matter?

Nice job on the wireless pcb's. I'm not trying to tell you how to do your job here but I have some info that may help. I have hacked maybe 8 360 wireless controllers and can definately tell you that you do not need the resistors for LT and RT. But like you said, it removes the pressure sensitivity. It is either on or off, which is the way a fight stick should be. They have a signal and ground just like all of the other buttons. Also, the wireless connect switch can be soldered but it is a BEEYATCH. I have used it on 2 of my fight sticks. I have it connected to a 1/2" pushbutton, very descreet. You can see them here if you like http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90460.0 Thank you for your posts. They really helped me alot

Okay, try this. Power up the pad, set a volt-ohm meter if you have one to uMv and probe the voltage point on the pad. Be sure to move the common probe over to mV if required (meter specific). You should then be able to get a mA reading. I'm getting ready to hack another wireless pad in a few minutes. If I beat you to it I'll post what I find.