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You can absolutely cut the GFCI end off the end and use a standard 3-prong outlet from a hardware store. Many of us have done that for the exact reason you describe (and also so the plug is smaller to fit into more outlets). No worries. It will work just fine.

And just to be precise there's only one hot wire since it's 120V. It's 1 hot, 1 neutral, and 1 ground. But yeah, just use the other plug as a template to connect the right wires to the new plug and bob's your uncle.

For added safety you would want a GFI plug. They are only a couple of dollars more and just as easy to install. My GFI went out and I replaced with a similar GFI plug.

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I agree, but I've also heard that putting two GFI plugs in series can be a problem (false tripping). With everything accessible outdoors being GFI'd already (e.g. garage and patio plugs), putting one on the Roadster cord shouldn't really be needed.

What I did was to get a heavy duty 15' extension cord, and swapped the ends, so the Roadster has the standard plug, and the extension the GFI. If I need the extension cord, I'm more likely attaching to an unusual plug, and to also need the GFI. At least, that's the logic...

I agree, but I've also heard that putting two GFI plugs in series can be a problem (false tripping). With everything accessible outdoors being GFI'd already (e.g. garage and patio plugs), putting one on the Roadster cord shouldn't really be needed.

What I did was to get a heavy duty 15' extension cord, and swapped the ends, so the Roadster has the standard plug, and the extension the GFI. If I need the extension cord, I'm more likely attaching to an unusual plug, and to also need the GFI. At least, that's the logic...

Click to expand...

To my surprise I have not had an issue with the Roadster GFI plugged into a GFI outlet. And while all outdoor plugs SHOULD be GFI I have found MANY out East that are not. But I can also say I have rarely had a problem with shocking either.

Just moved from my old place where I had the 220v. Never used the 120v. Moved to a place I don't know, so rented until I know it better, and don't want to waste good money giving the landlord an RV nema to use my UMC here.

Long story short, sold the car. And of course, per murphy's law, on the last charge before it hits closed transport, my 120v cable started futzing, and clearly, it's going to fail. Failing after less than six total uses. Good Lord.

Pretty much, thanks for the discussion and instructions for turning Tesla's obvious "design defect" cable into a superior cable with the same GCFI test and reset functionality.

FWLIW, I preferred amazon one day delivery to what I have local, so if parts arrive before transpo does, I'll fix it and give the new owner a "TMC improved" functional cable. If, however, the parts arrive after the car is gone, thereby depriving me the ability to test it, I'll pass the parts onto the new owner, with the great instructions from these threads. Easy fix, as you guys obviously know.

I wish Tesla's cable that costs 500% what it should, actually worked, but let's face it, they're design defective, and an #epicfail.

Meta

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