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Answers

The other number you mention is the length of the bottom bracket's spindle in mm. The correct length to use depends entirely on the crankset you have fitted, not the frame.

Find the make and model of the crankset, and then you'll be able to look it up to find out what spindle length you need. Alternatively, remove the crank arms and measure the length of the spindle of your existing bottom bracket (assuming that you have the correct one fitted).

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68mm is the width of your BB. You just need to work out what style, hollowtech - for cranks like shimano deore/slx where you have a 2 piece setup and the axle slides through the BB, ISIS for a lot of lower end truvativ cranks ..

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hi, the x something will be dependant on the groupset your using, if its a direct replacement, best thing to do is take your old one out, there will be a sticker on it indicating the exact size, then you'll be able to order that one..... done forget your antisieze paste

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Answers

There's no reason not to use the hollowtech chainsets with 7- or 8-speed casettes and chains. The chainrings will be slightly narrower than necessary, as they're designed for either 9- or 10-speed chains, but it won't actually cause you any problems. Of course, you could mount 7- or 8-speed chainrings on the cranks, assuming the BCD (bolt-circle-diameter) is the same, but there wouldn't really be any advantage to doing so.

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the problem of compatibility arises only for cassette 9, 10 and 11 speeds, because the chains are thinner and would not go on the front chainrings. your chain that is wider enters on all the front chainrings. Thinner ones must be more resistant, with use of better alloys, therefore more expensive. you do the math! ...

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pretty much any chainset designed for a geared bike will run 7/8 speed set up as 7/8 speed chains are a wider chain, you would only have an issue with the chainrings "grabbing" if you used a 7/8 speed chainset with a narrow chain (9/10/11 speed)

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There is play in the crank set, even though it has been tightened to its max. I removed the non gear side and found the follow info.Shimano Malaysia via YF 175 FC MC 16/ MC 20 / M440 ( looks like) would you be able to assist with the replacement crankset and BB this is taper square.

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Answers

First thing to do is to ascertain where the play is - if it's both crank arms moving together, and relative to the frame, then it's likely that the bottom bracket bearings have gone, which will introduce play at the spindle, in which case replacing the BB alone may be enough - take the old one out and find an exact match using the information stamped/printed on it.

However, if the play is between the crank arms and the spindle itself, then it may be that the crank/spindle interface has become damaged/worn, and it's more likely that you'll need to replace the crankset as well.

Assuming you're happy with the existing gearing, and just want to replace like for like, then the Acera M361 crankset would be a suitable replacement. You'll need to match it with a bottom bracket with "English" threads and a 122.5mm spindle (spindle length is dictated by the crankset, not the frame). You'll also need to check the BB shell width (the bit of the frame the BB sits within) - it will be either 68mm or 73mm, and will be written on the body of the old BB, or you can measure it directly with a ruler. Then search for UN55 and choose the correct one from the options.

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It's unlikely that the play is in the crankset, and far more likely that the play is in the bottom bracket, which is a very common high-wear item. The bottom bracket is reasonably easy to remove and replace with the correct removal tools.

If the crankset is loose, this could only be that the crankset has been run and pedalled on while the securing bolts were loose, allowing the square taper joint to wear and enlarge the holes on the crank arm/s whilst pedalling over time (possible) - if this has happened, one or both of the crank arms will need to be replaced, as if the taper hole is now too large for the taper on the bottom bracket, no amount of tightening will cure the problem.

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Too many people get a bit over-fixated on crank length. If you have a really good look at just how small 2.5mm / 5mm actually is, the difference is really pretty negligible.

What's more important is how the cranks can / will be accommodated on the frame that you're going to put them on. It could be, for example, that if the frame geometry is particularly small & tight, then you'll get significant foot/pedal overlap with the front wheel when the bars are turned for cornering which is fairly undesirable.

Your son would be able to use any length of crank (they only generally range from 170 - 180mm in most cases anyway!) without any bother. What's far more important is the physiological positioning over the frame, the stretch to the bars, the position of the knee over the axle of the pedals etc etc etc - it would be worth investing a bit of time in your LBS on a frame-fitting session to get a better idea on this if you don't know what you're doing - most of the bigger LBS's can do this....

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I am six foot two inches and ride with 175 cranks on all my bikes; this is standard for the largest size bikes. I once test rode a bike with 170 mm cranks and hated it so size does matter. 172.5 is standard for medium / large bikes and unless you got something custom from a huge guy this is likely the actual size of your crank. Longer increases leverage but too long messes up the pedal stroke at high cadence.

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Length sounds right - it's a bit of a personal thing, longer cranks mean more knee flex. I'm 32" (Sorry, I'm an Imperial....) and run 172.5 on the road, 175 on MTB.Be aware of decreased corner clearance with longer cranks!

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Gender: Male

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1 month, 1 week ago

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Anonymous

+1point

1out of1found this answer helpful.

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Hi, I am buying a used road bike and I want to change the chainrings on the FSA carbon crankset, from 53/39 to Compact, plus the cassette from 11-25 to 12-28.Is it possible to do this? What do I have to be aware of? Where can this go wrong?I was thinking of buying the chainrings myself and try to replace them on my own.Do I need to change the chain aswell?

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Answers

Hey Andreas,It completely depends on the BCD of your crankset first off. I'm probably going to guess that your chainrings are a 130 BCD, and if you would want to transition onto compact chainrings, compact chainrings are generally 110 BCD, meaning you might need a new crankset that comes with 110 BCD 52\36 or 50\34 chainrings. First part done. Secondly, generally road derailleurs with a short cage can take up to 28 teeth on the cassette, so you're probably in luck in terms of what you already have. I would grab a compact crankset, a new chain and cassette and I think you'd be pretty much good to go. Ride on!

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If you want compact rings, you will also need compact crank-arms, as the BCD is different. Simply buy a new compact crankset and replace your current full size one.

A 12-28 cassette is a simply change for any bike shop, but you might find that you may need to shorten your chain by a link or two when this is complete. Put your gears in the smallest chainring and the smallest cog at the back, and if the rear mech is too slack, you'll need to remove some links to tighten it up a little.

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Easy peasy, well worth doing.Only hassle is that you need to lower the front mech to the correct distance above chainrings - sometimes the mech will bottom out on something before you get there (Why they make high-mounted mechs)Chain will probably be OK without shortening, depending on who/how fitted in the first place - I always aim for minimum chain length, some people just fit a new chain 'as it came'. All you have to do, is fit chain, lift back wheel, select 'big front' 'big back' and check that the rear meck is able to cope. if the chain still has slack, consider removing links, but don't overshorten, as this can lock up the drivetrain if you inadvertently select 'big/big' on a ride - you have been warned!

Age: 55 to 64

Gender: Male

Attitude: Passionate and Obsessive

4 months, 3 weeks ago

by

Anonymous

+1point

1out of1found this answer helpful.

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Answers

It's not the bike that's important, but the brakes fitted to it that matter. Even assuming that your bike still has the stock brakes provided by the manufacturer, you haven't given enough information for anyone to work out what they would be (you've neglected to give us the model name or the year of manufacture).

The easiest way for you to get the information you need would be to look at the brake callipers and levers themselves to find the make and model (and in some cases a numerical code, too). Then you can search for the brake pads that fit your brakes directly, rather than worrying about the bike they're attached to.

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Answers

Personally, I would not change the middle ring alone. If you don't change the chain, the old chain will wear your new ring. If you DO change the chain, then the old inner/outer will wear the chain..........What about the rear cassette? generally these wear faster than front rings- you don't want to spend good dosh & end up with mis-shifting?

Age: 55 to 64

Gender: Male

Attitude: Passionate and Obsessive

2 months ago

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Anonymous

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0out of0found this answer helpful.

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On my bikes with triple chain rings the middle chain ring is always worn out first. I have always just replaced it with the same size ring. In your case 39 tooth rings are easier to find and I doubt this would cause you any problems. I have heard of problems from using smaller rings on shimano front derailleurs. They only time I have ever changed from the ring sizes that can with my bike was a change from a 32/42/52 Campy crank to a 30/39/50 FSA crank. This caused no problem for the campagnolo front derailleur.

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Answers

Due to the in depth technical information that we will require to answer your question, I would ask that you contact a member of our tech team using the link below. They will be happy to assist you further.http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...

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It's the disk brake that decides which adaptor to use, not the fork.Check the brand and model No of the brake first and look for theright adaptor. It should indicate on the catalogue or whatever like"160mm-180mm adaptor". You can probably find one on CRC site.

Make sure to choose the Post-Mount type, which is the standardof Manitou, not the international type. Never use the adaptor of thedifferent brand, as it's too risky and very dangerous.

I've once done the same conversion with a Manitou fork & Avid BB7.I got the right adaptor from CRC and it worked perfectly.

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I have a quastion about brakes Formula R1S - which calipers they have?

I read one comment about them, man said taht they have RX calipers..(The picture and description shows an R1 lever and caliper, however the caliper I received is Rx. These are OEM brakes and do not have the line shortening hardware that the normal retail product includes. This is not a good price on these brakes considering you need to buy two line shortening kits and the calipers are Rx.)

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