Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

05-25-2013 12:16 AM

MCPunk79

Quote:

Originally Posted by sparkey

Hi just my 2 cents worth all depends on your paint & clearcoat if its not all
Scratched up & looks ok a good wash (2 bucket) & dry them I use mothers claybar
& lube detail spray wash again dry again then I use cg black light 2coats with a few
Hrs maybe overnite between the coats then cg v7 spray makes my 2000 zx3 look
Like almost LOL new the black light is real easy on easy off by hand......
Shine on

I have a bottle of Blacklight, but haven't used it... the V7 spray is AMAZING! I would go all out and say it's one of the best sprays out there. For Chemical Guys... I use there JetSeal 109 and top it with some Lava wax... my Mustang looks just AWESOME!!! My SVT went with Zaino polish... they have some remarkable products as well.

05-23-2013 08:09 PM

sparkey

Hi just my 2 cents worth all depends on your paint & clearcoat if its not all
Scratched up & looks ok a good wash (2 bucket) & dry them I use mothers claybar
& lube detail spray wash again dry again then I use cg black light 2coats with a few
Hrs maybe overnite between the coats then cg v7 spray makes my 2000 zx3 look
Like almost LOL new the black light is real easy on easy off by hand......
Shine on

05-15-2013 04:11 PM

MCPunk79

Quote:

Originally Posted by swansong

Great posts so far, I'm guess I'd say I'm a budding detail buff myself. I can't recommend the claying part enough. In addition to the Porter Cable Polisher, you could also pick up a Griot's Garage polisher. I bought this starter kit in an Amazon lightning deal for $100 last Christmas. No idea if they'll have a deal like that again. The buffer is good quality and easy to use, and the machine polish they give you is basically error-proof. To be honest I'll need something a bit stronger (more abrasive) to fix some of my paint blemishes.

Couple washing/drying tips:
After rinsing the car, take the nozzle off of your garden hose (assuming that's what you're using) and let the free-flowing water "sheet" over the car, from top to bottom. This greatly reduces the amount of water left to dry up. I like to use a water blade after that, which leaves me with a basically dry car. I just dry up the door jams and edges after that.

Oh and for windows I like Stoner's Invisible Glass. Windex works in a pinch, but it's not the best and can negatively effect some window tints.

I've been using Griot's orbital machines for a few years now... the 6 and the 3 inch. They're great for starting out... their pads and polish aren't too aggressive and in some sense are "fool proof". I'm about to move on up to the Flex 3403 that I just used with my detailing friends and it's an AMAZING machine. So nimble and light, and it has removable backing plates. I can't wait to have my own! It's really going to help get those last few swirls and scratches that the Griot's machine doesn't have the power to get.

If you're drying a vehicle, I don't suggest using shammies... anything you rub across a car has the potential to scratch. Get a large waffle micro fiber drying towel and pat the car dry, don't rub.

Stoners is good, but make sure you get it in the arisol can. Gunk also makes one in an arisol can that is just as good, if not better... OR, you can go OLD SCHOOL... mix some water and vinegar (5:1) and wipe it off with newspaper.

05-15-2013 03:10 PM

swansong

Great posts so far, I'm guess I'd say I'm a budding detail buff myself. I can't recommend the claying part enough. In addition to the Porter Cable Polisher, you could also pick up a Griot's Garage polisher. I bought this starter kit in an Amazon lightning deal for $100 last Christmas. No idea if they'll have a deal like that again. The buffer is good quality and easy to use, and the machine polish they give you is basically error-proof. To be honest I'll need something a bit stronger (more abrasive) to fix some of my paint blemishes.

Couple washing/drying tips:
After rinsing the car, take the nozzle off of your garden hose (assuming that's what you're using) and let the free-flowing water "sheet" over the car, from top to bottom. This greatly reduces the amount of water left to dry up. I like to use a water blade after that, which leaves me with a basically dry car. I just dry up the door jams and edges after that.

Oh and for windows I like Stoner's Invisible Glass. Windex works in a pinch, but it's not the best and can negatively effect some window tints.

05-15-2013 02:38 PM

Shempi

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCPunk79

We'll hook up in June Connor... If you really want to, I plan on visiting a father & son duo of detailers in Minnetonka when I come down, they really want to do a "detailing party". Bill and Josh have taught me quite a bit in the little while I've known them. You won't believe the condition of their duo Evo Xs!!

I believe at Apple Valley's car show, there will be a guy who shows how to detail. He's been there the last two years, and sells a variety of products. I bought some pads from him last year.

It is true that detailing is NOT cheap, by any means. I have been spending around 250-500 dollars per season just trying new products. It's really a fun hobby, as you really see yourself getting better with each detail.

I mentioned before, hit AutoGeek or Detailer's Domain for some great forums and some great products. I may be a bit finicky, but I don't really buy anything "off the shelf" anymore... everything I use is ordered from either Detailer's Domain, Chemical Guys, AutoGeek or Zaino.

Thanks for your help Mike. I would definitely be interested in joining in on this "Detail party". And I do understand detailing can get expensive but to me it seems like money well spent.

05-14-2013 09:47 PM

MCPunk79

We'll hook up in June Connor... If you really want to, I plan on visiting a father & son duo of detailers in Minnetonka when I come down, they really want to do a "detailing party". Bill and Josh have taught me quite a bit in the little while I've known them. You won't believe the condition of their duo Evo Xs!!

I believe at Apple Valley's car show, there will be a guy who shows how to detail. He's been there the last two years, and sells a variety of products. I bought some pads from him last year.

It is true that detailing is NOT cheap, by any means. I have been spending around 250-500 dollars per season just trying new products. It's really a fun hobby, as you really see yourself getting better with each detail.

I mentioned before, hit AutoGeek or Detailer's Domain for some great forums and some great products. I may be a bit finicky, but I don't really buy anything "off the shelf" anymore... everything I use is ordered from either Detailer's Domain, Chemical Guys, AutoGeek or Zaino.

05-14-2013 01:10 AM

Shempi

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burns098356GX

I suggest paying to have it professionally done. The price difference between you buying all that stuff and having a shop do it isnt all that much.

I thought about it, but in the end I really want to learn to do it myself.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FOCUS.FREAK

I think the OP is looking more into doing little things on his own. Not major things. Even if he was going to use the PC its so easy a 5 year old could use it.

\

Yes. I want to learn how to detail, not watch while someone else does it for me. I think it will be a very good set of skills to acquire and I mostly want to do it for the experience of putting some TLC into my car myself. I feel like it will be more rewarding for me and a huge sense of accomplishment once I get the hang of it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyn085

I do my cleaning in the garage. If you have that option then use it as you won't have to fight the sun drying your work and environmental contaminants are lessened. About once a month I do wheels-off; this will help keep them from building up a bunch of road grime and brake dust inside the barrel. It also helps you keep your suspension and wheel wells clean.

First, rinse ycar with low pressure water to knock of large/loose contaminants. After that I use a sprayer that I bought from Walmart for $20 that can spray soapy water on the car. After that I use the two-bucket wash with grit guards. Here is a good write-up for that-How To Wash Your Car The Right Way - TLC Auto Detail

The only thing I really do different than their wash is use different mitts. I have one for the top half of the car, one for the bottom half of the painted part of the car, one for wheels, and one for all of the black plastics (wheel-well, rocker panels, splash guards, etc.). Whenever possible I only wash in front-back motions and never in circles (this reduces angles that any possible scratching can be viewed from). After I wash I use an electric leaf-blower to dry the car (instead of any towels). Same thing, top-down, while paying attention to difficult areas (side mirrors, door handles, etc.).

Once dry, you'll go back with a clay bar on all of the painted surfaces to remove contaminants that are still adhered to the paint. You should only have to do this once a year, so push through the pain. I use the bar for approximately half a panel, then work it to a clean surface. It will be mildly frustrating after putting the time into having done the wash, but ensure you use a lot of detailing spray to keep the surface well lubed. And if you drop the bar to the ground, you need to pick it up and throw it away-it is now worthless.

Once you've clayed the entire painted surface, you are ready for paint correction. As mentioned above, the PC 7424XP is the absolute best device for a novice. It has enough power to effectively correct paint, but it's designed for the novice and won't hurt your paint (unless you literally are trying to, and even then it will take a lot of work). There are some good tutorials online on how to use one and what products to use with it (pads and compounds/polishes). I usually tape off all of the black trim areas prior to doing it, which allows me to not be overly concerned with having to clean that all up when I'm done.

If you have to, compound accordingly, polish, then seal and/or wax. Depending on how much correction your paint needs, your amount of work time will very. There are a million great products out there, so trying to say that one is better than another is a moot point. Usually it takes me a day to get to this point. The benefit of the PC is that you know you won't damage your paint while working. The downside is that the price you pay for that safety is the amount of time you have to put into it. That, and I don't work overly fast.

The next day is when I start interior and windows. I work front to rear, dash, console, seats, door panels, and then anything overhead (if necessary). I wait to deal with the glass due to possible overspray of interior cleaners. After I am at done with them, I then vacuum out the car because I won't be getting back into it. The only thing I would recommend in regards to your redbull stains would be this-Steamer.

Now that you're back outside, you can do your door jambs, remove your tape, do the exterior windows, and clean the exterior trim. Detail your wheels and tires and you're done

Yes, the products themselves can run a decent amount of money. The bright side is that you probably won't have to buy much (if any) more throughout the year. You should only have to correct the paint once a year, and from there on out you will only have to put a third (if that) of the work in to keep it clean. The big thing will be ensuring that you wash your vehicle safely and don't introduce more swirls or scratches.

That's actually a pretty quick run-down and should give you enough information to fuel your Googles. Get familiar with Autogeek.net, ChemicalGuys.com, etc. You'll find stuff at your local Walmart, auto-parts stores, and even Lowes/Home Depot. Hopefully this helps

Thank you so much! Your post has been more than helpful! I do have access to a large garage and I WILL be using your great advice.

05-11-2013 08:46 PM

dyn085

I do my cleaning in the garage. If you have that option then use it as you won't have to fight the sun drying your work and environmental contaminants are lessened. About once a month I do wheels-off; this will help keep them from building up a bunch of road grime and brake dust inside the barrel. It also helps you keep your suspension and wheel wells clean.

First, rinse ycar with low pressure water to knock of large/loose contaminants. After that I use a sprayer that I bought from Walmart for $20 that can spray soapy water on the car. After that I use the two-bucket wash with grit guards. Here is a good write-up for that-How To Wash Your Car The Right Way - TLC Auto Detail

The only thing I really do different than their wash is use different mitts. I have one for the top half of the car, one for the bottom half of the painted part of the car, one for wheels, and one for all of the black plastics (wheel-well, rocker panels, splash guards, etc.). Whenever possible I only wash in front-back motions and never in circles (this reduces angles that any possible scratching can be viewed from). After I wash I use an electric leaf-blower to dry the car (instead of any towels). Same thing, top-down, while paying attention to difficult areas (side mirrors, door handles, etc.).

Once dry, you'll go back with a clay bar on all of the painted surfaces to remove contaminants that are still adhered to the paint. You should only have to do this once a year, so push through the pain. I use the bar for approximately half a panel, then work it to a clean surface. It will be mildly frustrating after putting the time into having done the wash, but ensure you use a lot of detailing spray to keep the surface well lubed. And if you drop the bar to the ground, you need to pick it up and throw it away-it is now worthless.

Once you've clayed the entire painted surface, you are ready for paint correction. As mentioned above, the PC 7424XP is the absolute best device for a novice. It has enough power to effectively correct paint, but it's designed for the novice and won't hurt your paint (unless you literally are trying to, and even then it will take a lot of work). There are some good tutorials online on how to use one and what products to use with it (pads and compounds/polishes). I usually tape off all of the black trim areas prior to doing it, which allows me to not be overly concerned with having to clean that all up when I'm done.

If you have to, compound accordingly, polish, then seal and/or wax. Depending on how much correction your paint needs, your amount of work time will very. There are a million great products out there, so trying to say that one is better than another is a moot point. Usually it takes me a day to get to this point. The benefit of the PC is that you know you won't damage your paint while working. The downside is that the price you pay for that safety is the amount of time you have to put into it. That, and I don't work overly fast.

The next day is when I start interior and windows. I work front to rear, dash, console, seats, door panels, and then anything overhead (if necessary). I wait to deal with the glass due to possible overspray of interior cleaners. After I am at done with them, I then vacuum out the car because I won't be getting back into it. The only thing I would recommend in regards to your redbull stains would be this-Steamer.

Now that you're back outside, you can do your door jambs, remove your tape, do the exterior windows, and clean the exterior trim. Detail your wheels and tires and you're done

Yes, the products themselves can run a decent amount of money. The bright side is that you probably won't have to buy much (if any) more throughout the year. You should only have to correct the paint once a year, and from there on out you will only have to put a third (if that) of the work in to keep it clean. The big thing will be ensuring that you wash your vehicle safely and don't introduce more swirls or scratches.

That's actually a pretty quick run-down and should give you enough information to fuel your Googles. Get familiar with Autogeek.net, ChemicalGuys.com, etc. You'll find stuff at your local Walmart, auto-parts stores, and even Lowes/Home Depot. Hopefully this helps

05-11-2013 03:46 PM

FOCUS.FREAK

I think the OP is looking more into doing little things on his own. Not major things. Even if he was going to use the PC its so easy a 5 year old could use it.

05-11-2013 12:37 PM

Burns098356GX

I suggest paying to have it professionally done. The price difference between you buying all that stuff and having a shop do it isnt all that much.

This thread has more than 10 replies.
Click here to review the whole thread.