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6 Lies You've Heard About Adult Acne

Outsmart Breakouts

As a teen, you probably learned most of your acne advice from your friends – the same people who told you Pop Rocks and soda are a lethal combination. Now, there's no need to be misinformed about what causes adult acne and what the best breakout remedies are.

Consult this myth-busting acne advice and the advice from dermatologists to keep your complexion clear.

Myth: Adult acne can be treated the same way as teenage acne.

Reality: "All acne is hormonally related, whether you're 16 or 61," says Katie Rodan, MD, codeveloper of Rodan + Fields skin care company and a dermatologist in San Francisco. But your skin changes in important ways once you stop worrying about prom dates — chiefly, it's more sensitive and not able to tolerate the harsh treatments designed for teens.

"The ingredients used to treat adult acne are by and large the same as those used to treat teen acne," says Diane Berson, MD, an assistant professor of dermatology at Weill Medical College of Cornell University and a dermatologist in New York City. "The vehicle and the formulas vary, though — more creams than gels, for instance — because adults, with their thinner and more sensitive skin, need treatments that are more moisturizing."

Along with the old standbys, such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, dermatologists might suggest hormonal treatments, such as birth control pills or spironolactone, a medicine that helps balance hormones, and topical antibiotic creams.

Myth: Chocolate causes breakouts.

Reality: "No food gives you acne," says Dr. Berson. "Acne is mostly due to heredity and hormones." Dairy and sugar, however, trigger an increase in insulin levels, which increases the amount of androgens (male hormones) in your system, says Dr. Rodan. These are the hormones that can cause the large, painful cysts that tend to cluster around the jawline.

"I tell my patients to avoid the bad starchy and sugary foods, and to try to eat organic, hormone-free dairy," Rodan explains. "It may be of some benefit and may reduce the number of flare-ups you have." Accordingly, eating a diet rich in fruits and vegetables and low in unhealthy carbs will help your body fight the effects of inflammation, one of which is acne.

There is good news: Chocolate does not appear to be linked to acne. But to be safe, stick to dark chocolate low in sugar and dairy content.

Myth: Sunscreen clogs your pores.

Reality: Not all sunscreens will make adult acne worse, although "some heavy sunscreens can clog pores," says Jessica Wu, MD, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Southern California and the author of Feed Your Face.

The solution is simple: Look for oil-free formulas. Lightweight fluid or liquid gel formulas dry quickly and don't feel greasy. In addition, cautions Dr. Wu, if you suffer from adult acne, it's in your interest to cover up with sunscreen every day because sun exposure can cause spots of dark pigmentation to form where cysts have injured the skin.

Myth: Adult acne is caused by dirty skin.

Reality: The real culprits behind adult acne are hormones and heredity. "I've seen patients traumatize their skin because they think it can't be clean enough," says Dr. Berson. "The more abrasively you treat your skin, the worse you're going to make your acne."

Dermatologists uniformly recommend washing the skin gently with a mild cleanser that does not strip the skin of natural oils, and letting the topical or oral medications balance the hormones and target the blemishes.

Myth: Don't go near any oils if you have acne.

Reality: "Some oils, such as mineral oils, can be occlusive and clog your pores," says Berson. "But silicones, such as dimethicone, are also oils. They are used in 'oil-free' products and have a mattifying effect." The safest bet, advises Rodan, is to stick to products — lotions and makeup — that are designated "noncomedogenic" on the label; that ensures that they won't clog pores.

Some oils may even be beneficial — especially as part of your diet. "Some omega oils may prevent your pores from being plugged up or control excess oil production," says Rodan. The healthy oils found in foods like salmon, flaxseed, and almonds can reduce inflammation to help heal acne.

Myth: Exercising and sweating can make adult acne worse.

Reality: Not only does exercising help circulation and have loads of benefits for your overall health, but sweating itself does not worsen acne. However, if after you exercise you sit in the clothes you worked out in, your pores may become clogged because "the sweat can mix with the oils on the surface of your skin," Berson says.

To prevent the leftover sweat from aggravating your acne, shower immediately after exercising. For an extra measure of prevention, Rodan recommends cleansing your skin with an antiacne medicated wash. Just don't let the fear of adult acne prevent you from doing something good for the rest of your body.

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