Discussion Topic

Michael Hjorth shot this photo last week, on an old 5.8 route with character -- Via Internationale at Kullen. Test the blocks, brush guano off the holds, don't even think about smearing on that green stuff ... blue sea below us. I was lovin' it. Dig the flower.

Like I say, I was lovin' it. ST'er (and top Danish climber) Michael was a most excellent host, meaning partly that he led all the weird pitches including one that flat punched me out. Anders Strange Nielsen was part of the fun too.

A few more photos thanks to Michael, I claim no credit for these (except the last).

Here's Michael, who thoughtfully packed a couple of most excellent warm beers for toasting our day from the clifftop.

snakefoot, yeah, we used the doubles to get a couple pitches up CC (just one long rap down), then decided to "go light" on this route. Less clever than it sounded because we ended up needing both ropes to get down, again.

Correct area, and remember the title of the thread! (I'd say more but that would spoil the fun, and yeah, you do know the route.)

L:Great photos, Chiloe. That first one of you and the flower had my palms sweating for sure--but it certainly looked like a great climb.

Thanks, I thought Michael's photos caught the "atmosphere" of the place well.

And that shot of Tarbaby is an all-time classic! (Does that guy not believe in aging or what???)

One or two even better (IMHO) cowboy-hat photos from other North Conway classics yet to come; I'm waiting for Tar to get back online before posting. He shot a few too, don't know what they'll show. Tar and Lisa (who took first in her division, btw, at the tough Mt. Washington road race) ought to be kickin' back on Cape Cod today.

And on the other side of the country, Crow Hill, the best local crag in Massachusetts contains this gem called Tarzan. In this pic, Jen rallies her strength before heading into the 20 foot crux. Tarzan is a steep and technical 5.8. Sustained, with jams, laybacks, stems, slopers, and crimps. If you can lead this climb, you can lead any trad 5.8 in Mass!

My son & I drove home over Tioga Pass a month or so ago, after the Steve/Mimi nuptials, and just had to stop and climb something in the Meadows. Drawing on fuzzy memories, we scampered up 5.8 Truck n' Drive on Lembert 32 years after I'd last done it. I was glad to see upgraded bolts on the route, though those pesky stainless hangers are a lot harder to spot in the distance than old rusty Leepers.

Funny, I first climbed Truckin' Drive (upthread) and Short Order in the same season
(1982), and thought they were similar difficulty, say 5.8+, and psychological "type"
(thin face with spaced-out bolts). Both real fun climbs.

Don't know what the consensus is about Short Order now. As with a lot of 5.8s, the
leader should try hard not to fall.

As for the Book of Solemnity (5.9+), first time I did that I thought it would be 10a in
Eldo. Likewise the 2nd pitch of Chitlins Corner, which was 5.9+ in my guidebook.

Supertopo Tony, Yvonne and I went to England in in 2007. This is how all my posts begin, but: "Pouring over book-X in year-Y, I've wanted to climb route-Z". In this case it was Mountain #26 "True Grit", 1973 and English gritstone. I couldn't remember how hard these routes were, but we're now 5.8 climbers so, there you go. The first was at Bamford Edge above our lodgings (pub!) by the Ladybower Resevoir.

Brown's Crack, Bamford Edge. 5.7

Credit: Tony

The following are from some super moderate climb at Stanage (Balcony Buttress) that we translated to 5.6. Whatever. I whimpered on the lead, and you might notice the pro every 6 inches or so.

Credit: Darwin

Credit: Darwin

Credit: Darwin

Credit: Darwin

The following are from the NW end of Stanage Edge. We all found the gritstone grain milling wheels super interesting and between us, photos of them must have comprised half our pictures.

where the heck are we?

Credit: Yvonne

Tango Crack
Stanage, 5.4

Credit: Yvonne

Some famous gritstone roof.
(OK, it's Quitetus, not 5.8 but 5.10c or d, Joe Brown 1954)

Credit: Yvonne

almost to the pub

Credit: Darwin

The birding was super cool, too. Then Tony and Yvonne went off North and climbed Ardverikie Wall on Binnein Shuas in the Central Scottish Highlands.

Did a "previously unreported " climb today;...Starrbonne (5.8)......it was a very good climb, a beautiful day, with a great view on cool rock....This picture was taken at about 5:00 this evening....Joshua Tree, Ca.

I need to put you attention to the first picture and TR on this thread: Chiloe's and my visit to Kullen in Sweden more than two years ago. Which promted several of you to question the safety of Chiloe, climbing as he apperantly was on a 20+ years rope...

Ofcause he wasn't! It was maybe three years old (but - ok - of questionable east european quality). Anyway, Wootles promised me a new Sterling. And he kept his word! Chiloe visited me in Copenhagen yesterday, and brought with him a nice, strong and unique Sterling rope. Wouw, I didn't deserve that!

The old rope HAS been cut up (so I can use it on plastic walls...), and this new one will be put to good use on slimy wet, green, loose and cold Kullen next weekend. Looking forward to that.

Just a slight drift:
Two remarks to your nice picture of Copenhagen:
1: The great building on the left will (hopefully) soon be turned into one of the highest indoor climbing walls in Europe.

2: Went up the spiral stairs on that central tower (Frelser Kirke) with my girls a few months ago. Youngest takes no notice of the 60+ meter above the streets; the other begging me to take them down again.

A few of the pitches are carved into beautiful, seemingly solid granite slaps. Others make cairns along the approach look bomber. An early start, clouds, and a little thunderstorm meant the cliff temps were close to perfect. And, after 6 months of "working" on adding training weight, 5.8 was just right. The hike down was another matter. Car thermometer read 92 in the shade, and I was hurtin'...still am today!