Thanks to Klique and Murdnunoc and all for getting me started on this project. This is obviously not going to be a slouch and "yes" I am going to make it stiff. I was in the composites field for many years so I will come up with a stiff light weight package with balsa or possibly hollow carbon elevons. I think that some pictures will be taken of this project. Thanks again for the boost! John the original popcorn guy

Murdnunoc, so far I have:

Hitec HS-82mg servos
Nue 1110-2.5Y Motor
CC Phoenix 80 ESC

I do have (2) NeuEnergy 3S 2500 25/50C
also have (2) TP Pro Power 2S 3850 30/60C

Wizzinbyya,
For a really fun 4S setup, you could run your pair of 2S 3850 batteries with a series adapter for a 4S 3850 setup.

Or if you're into serious RPM, run the 3S 2500mah pair in series and your Neu could be run on 6S if you keep the prop small, like the 6x4 APC Sport that CK suggested. It'll take every bit of that 6" prop's aerodynamic power to push the STryker over 130mph, but you might make it. 6.5" and 7" props really have an easier time overcoming the Stryker's drag at higher speeds.

The best setup will always depend on what kind of flying you like to do and how hard you want to push your equipment.

4S lets you run your current batteries and gives a great high performance sport flyer with awesome climbing.

5S will be your best speed with a good balance of pitch speed for drag race runs and decent thrust for launches and climbing.

6S lets you run current batteries with good speed and tons of fun noise!

Thanks for the comments....there are many folks on this thread and on RCU that have good amount of experience......together we can solve any issue.

We can all learn from each other and provide support to each other.

Team work.

____________________________

Peter M,

Yes, in that old picture I was trying an experiment.
In a previous build I had noticed a nasty wave going through the wing as I gave up elevator input....Plywood elevons hinged on top (my first wooden elevons ever) so there was a big gap during up elevator input causing all kinds of nasty things…I will never hinge elevons on top again…..hinges in middle works better……
As I switched to placing hinge in middle (few years ago), I learned about taping the hinge line….but that info was useless on my build because no air molecules could pass through my perfect/tight hinge line...(pics on part 6, page 9).

My future build will get Kid’s wipers.

With that mod in pic #12, I figured the wing would not have same issue on flutter/wave even if it wanted to....LOL....I was right.
That wing could fly 110 MPH with ease…but switching to 4S would then require down elevator and some Aileron input too…..stock elevons can only be pushed so far.

Those are the 0.177" thin C.F. strips....24" on each wing (in 6 pieces). 2 of them came in 1 package.....some of those short strips bottomed out on top of C.F. tubes and I was very lucky that those ones barely fit all the way in the wing.

I'm not going to make that a recommendation to anyone, but together with beefed up T.E. those short strips sure helped stiffen the wing and stabilize the T.E.

_____________________

Separately:
*** For VERY high speed flight and no glassing, having only 1 main C.F. from left to right is not enough...that will delay when the wing will snap in flight....2 C.F. left to right is minimum, 3 of them is a bit of overkill, depends on speeds involved.

Hi guys, finally got some video of my Stryker up!
First time filming from a camera mounted to my hat.
Still loving this airframe,I fly whenever I can.
Hope you guys like.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iIWEKc7aEU

Thanks for the comments....there are many folks on this thread and on RCU that have good amount of experience......together we can solve any issue.

We can all learn from each other and provide support to each other.

Team work.

____________________________

Peter M,

Yes, in that old picture I was trying an experiment.
In a previous build I had noticed a nasty wave going through the wing as I gave up elevator input....Plywood elevons hinged on top (my first wooden elevons ever) so there was a big gap during up elevator input causing all kinds of nasty things…I will never hinge elevons on top again…..hinges in middle works better……
As I switched to placing hinge in middle (few years ago), I learned about taping the hinge line….but that info was useless on my build because no air molecules could pass through my perfect/tight hinge line...(pics on part 6, page 9).

My future build will get Kid’s wipers.

With that mod in pic #12, I figured the wing would not have same issue on flutter/wave even if it wanted to....LOL....I was right.
That wing could fly 110 MPH with ease…but switching to 4S would then require down elevator and some Aileron input too…..stock elevons can only be pushed so far.

Those are the 0.177" thin C.F. strips....24" on each wing (in 6 pieces). 2 of them came in 1 package.....some of those short strips bottomed out on top of C.F. tubes and I was very lucky that those ones barely fit all the way in the wing.

I'm not going to make that a recommendation to anyone, but together with beefed up T.E. those short strips sure helped stiffen the wing and stabilize the T.E.

_____________________

Separately:
*** For VERY high speed flight and no glassing, having only 1 main C.F. from left to right is not enough...that will delay when the wing will snap in flight....2 C.F. left to right is minimum, 3 of them is a bit of overkill, depends on speeds involved.

Gryphon

I would like to see a pic of the recommended cf setup without glassing (specific positioning of left/right cf). I am hell bent on not glassing but I am also determined to hit 140-150mph when I get a build that can handle it. My current 4S stryker flutters like crazy and it's at 120mph. A-frame of 5.3mm CF, 2 coats of polycrylic and it looks and sounds like it is struggling to stay together. Pisses me off!!!!!

I'm working on same exact thing right now...when I finalize it, I will post.

It has or it will have 3 CF going left to right.

I have not planned all of the short CF pieces that I want to use in between the (3) main CF pieces above...some will be diagonal.

(2) more CF each going from a wing tip to the middle of rear CF which runs left to right...at least as close as possible to that center area.

The two stock rods were replaced with CF tubes.

Two long CF tubes will get skewered into fuse from behind nose piece. (15"-18" max range if installed with large angle to nose)
One in lower left, one in lower right. They will run straight back or a bit diagonal

Hi guys, finally got some video of my Stryker up!
First time filming from a camera mounted to my hat.
Still loving this airframe,I fly whenever I can.
Hope you guys like.

I like !!!!
May I suggest that you enable the "brake" option on your ESC. I see from your video that your prop was still making noise as you landed, the taller grass saves your shaft from a beatin. When you run a brake, the prop doesnt windmill easily, and you get a chance to see the prop and bump in several times on a relatively slow, light build.

I tried a camera attached to my hat yesterday, the video aint too bad, here is the maiden..............................ps, not 1 click of trim was needed, thats the first time that ever happened to me !!!!!

Had to run a 3s2200 battery (from just under 6oz to just over 6.5oz)(different manufacturers and different "C" ratings)
MicroDan 2900kv "ChippedProp special"
APC 6x4 Sport prop

At full throttle on the straight runs, I started using aileron to counter the death spiral, and on a slight dive at full throttle, it was corkscrewing down. The airframe RTF (without a battery) came in at just over 16 oz and there isnt any CF or wood anywhere. With a small 2200 battery this was UNDER 22oz in the air.

Controlls were crisp and precise, as they should be in a Stryker. Having the servos out firther to the wing tips really helps with the elevon deflections, but I think the hinges I added really helped move them easier.

I like !!!!
May I suggest that you enable the "brake" option on your ESC. I see from your video that your prop was still making noise as you landed, the taller grass saves your shaft from a beatin. When you run a brake, the prop doesnt windmill easily, and you get a chance to see the prop and bump in several times on a relatively slow, light build.

I tried a camera attached to my hat yesterday, the video aint too bad, here is the maiden..............................ps, not 1 click of trim was needed, thats the first time that ever happened to me !!!!!

Had to run a 3s2200 battery (from just under 6oz to just over 6.5oz)(different manufacturers and different "C" ratings)
MicroDan 2900kv "ChippedProp special"
APC 6x4 Sport prop

At full throttle on the straight runs, I started using aileron to counter the death spiral, and on a slight dive at full throttle, it was corkscrewing down. The airframe RTF (without a battery) came in at just over 16 oz and there isnt any CF or wood anywhere. With a small 2200 battery this was UNDER 22oz in the air.

Controlls were crisp and precise, as they should be in a Stryker. Having the servos out firther to the wing tips really helps with the elevon deflections, but I think the hinges I added really helped move them easier.

Ok, a definite improvement. Now lets get one of those super fast strykers on the hat cam. If I were there, I would be standing in the middle of that field with cam, as you fly 5 feet over my head at 175 mph. I might even climb that tower and get some fly-by action from up there.

Thanks Dudes,
But you gotta remember, the fast ones cover HUGE amounts of ground in VERY little time. I will work on some more hat stuff, and get to King Lymey, but dont think that the "hat cam" will give the same view of King Lymey as it did of this light and SLOW build !!!

I doubt that anyone could climb that tower before the coppers come...........this is VERY private land, and the State Police, County police, and State Parks Police are everywhere just waiting for a Dude like Johnny to come by and take away their boring day !!!! Every time I go there, at least 2 or 3 different coppers stop by and ID me and check over my trunk as I fly. All 3 are headquartered RIGHT THERE !!!!

I definately wouldnt stand in the center of a field and fly over my own head @ over 150mph................let alone someone elses. I have seen WAY too many Strykers auger into the ground on low high speed passes, stuff happens fast in low and fast passes, crosswinds, sudden drops in altitude (even 1 foot could mean disaster), etc........

Thanks Dudes,
But you gotta remember, the fast ones cover HUGE amounts of ground in VERY little time. I will work on some more hat stuff, and get to King Lymey, but dont think that the "hat cam" will give the same view of King Lymey as it did of this light and SLOW build !!!

I doubt that anyone could climb that tower before the coppers come...........this is VERY private land, and the State Police, County police, and State Parks Police are everywhere just waiting for a Dude like Johnny to come by and take away their boring day !!!! Every time I go there, at least 2 or 3 different coppers stop by and ID me and check over my trunk as I fly. All 3 are headquartered RIGHT THERE !!!!

I definately wouldnt stand in the center of a field and fly over my own head @ over 150mph................let alone someone elses. I have seen WAY too many Strykers auger into the ground on low high speed passes, stuff happens fast in low and fast passes, crosswinds, sudden drops in altitude (even 1 foot could mean disaster), etc........

Well I didn't feel like including the fact that I would be wearing a football helmet, but.......