CR-1000 Advice Needed

To All, I'm evaluating a CR-1000 that's been made available to me at the ridiculous price of $25! I have almost no education on these units or background information so I'm hoping to gather some in preparation for restoration; overall quality of design, inherent manufacturing problems, direction for any upgrades to address known problems, difficulty in overall restoration, lamp sourcing, etc. Any and all input would be well appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback gentlemen and YES, the receiver works but the controls are having a severe effect on the performance. I've got both the Deoxit DF & F5 fader lube that should rectify the issue as Avionic indicates. Just as Bert was able to identify, the receiver was in dire need of a good cleaning as it came from a smokers house and the tar build-up was rather severe (pics don't really portray the level of deterioration accurately). I started on the face plate and switches last night and resolved this problem in short order (see pics below). Next will be the pots and faders. I really appreciate the source for the lights as all of them around the meters are out including the dial pointer. And these are really the only lights on the unit. I'm not sure what my brother wants to invest but I may talk him into allowing me to re-cap the power supply at the very least - I'm sure it could use it. The architecture is rather tight and I'm a newb so we'll see how successful I can be. As you will see from the photos, the face plate and switches look brand new! I was extremely pleased with the outcome as other than the tar build-up, there is almost no physical damage.

I'm not liking the overall design of this unit as it's looking like the tuning capacitor pulley/string will need to be removed in order to properly access certain boards, including the power supply and filter caps. It's really packed-in tight! Tons of switches and many don't have openings available for the Deoxit.

I'm not liking the overall design of this unit as it's looking like the tuning capacitor pulley/string will need to be removed in order to properly access certain boards, including the power supply and filter caps. It's really packed-in tight! Tons of switches and many don't have openings available for the Deoxit.

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Looks like you got yourself into now! I know I'll be following your progress.

I'm treating the toggle switches (they are actuall push-button mechanisms) with Deoxit D5. If anyone has any tricks or recommendations to ensure extended operational time, please don't hesitate to "chime-in" here

Chiming in...
Unfortunately ... To positively clean up those slide switches requires switch disassembly. You just can't get the deoxit where it will do any good. By spritzing in the metal covers openings.

Chiming in...
Unfortunately ... To positively clean up those slide switches requires switch disassembly. You just can't get the deoxit where it will do any good. By spritzing in the metal covers openings.

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I agree sir. Was thinking the same thing but unfortunately I've only recently entered the restoration hobby and disassembling these switch-groups would be quite the ambitious task for me. The brass keeper on the front of the switch group is glued to the board. It appears that once that's removed, desoldering of each switch would be required, and finally, if your successful, you could begin removing the switch housing, springs, etc. - making sure to keep these little pesky springs from flying everywhere! I'm thinking this could take up to a few hours per board.

I agree sir. Was thinking the same thing but unfortunately I've only recently entered the restoration hobby and disassembling these switch-groups would be quite the ambitious task for me. The brass keeper on the front of the switch group is glued to the board. It appears that once that's removed, desoldering of each switch would be required, and finally, if your successful, you could begin removing the switch housing, springs, etc. - making sure to keep these little pesky springs from flying everywhere! I'm thinking this could take up to a few hours per board.

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Actually despite being from first half of 1970s (me and the amp ) I found CR-1000 quite easy to maintain for a beginner. You can either remove pcbs/sliders/switches as many are not soldered at all but on connectors or they are on really lavish allowance of cable lengths. I find it easier to maintain than CA-1010 or Marantz 2270 which I also dealt with. I fully recapped CR-1000 without unsoldering a single cable. This would be hard with other 2 amps I mentioned. 2 out of 3 main amp caps are so on edge of the pcb that I even replaced them without unscrewing the pcbs.

Thanks for the feedback gentlemen and YES, the receiver works but the controls are having a severe effect on the performance. I've got both the Deoxit DF & F5 fader lube that should rectify the issue as Avionic indicates. Just as Bert was able to identify, the receiver was in dire need of a good cleaning as it came from a smokers house and the tar build-up was rather severe (pics don't really portray the level of deterioration accurately). I started on the face plate and switches last night and resolved this problem in short order (see pics below). Next will be the pots and faders. I really appreciate the source for the lights as all of them around the meters are out including the dial pointer. And these are really the only lights on the unit. I'm not sure what my brother wants to invest but I may talk him into allowing me to re-cap the power supply at the very least - I'm sure it could use it. The architecture is rather tight and I'm a newb so we'll see how successful I can be. As you will see from the photos, the face plate and switches look brand new! I was extremely pleased with the outcome as other than the tar build-up, there is almost no physical damage.