Scanning the horizon – Finding the rhino is an exercise in how to read the landscape and be aware of its smallest details.

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The elusive black rhino in Namibia7 photos

Finally – After a long day of walking and tracking, the rhino finally comes into view grazing on a riverbed. It's important to keep a respectful distance -- when disturbed unexpectedly, rhinos may charge.

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The elusive black rhino in Namibia7 photos

GPS logbook – The guide records the GPS position in his logbook. It's been a good day. Rangers in Damaraland are proud of their job and the community looks up to them.

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The elusive black rhino in Namibia7 photos

Connecting with the community – The communities of Damaraland have become models for southern African conservation efforts. Leaders like Jantjies Rhyn (pictured) have helped empower their communities by partnering with eco-tourism operators for employment and training opportunities.

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Story highlights

Poaching has wiped out 92% of black rhino population in the last 30 years

Conservation agencies have partnered with eco-tourism operators

Tourists can track rhino on foot with professional guides

Rhino numbers have increased but are under threat again from recent surge in poaching

The next day at 6 a.m. the rangers and I leave Wilderness Safaris' Desert Rhino Camp.

After an hour's drive we see fresh rhino tracks on a riverbed and follow on foot.

Tracking soon becomes difficult, as there are no footsteps anymore, just rocks that have been moved.

Finding them is an exercise in mindfulness.

Tracking epitomizes abilities that humans have almost completely lost: to read the landscape and be aware of its smallest details.

As they walk, the rangers wave their hands as if in an ancient dance: open hands, palm forward, indicating each track or to inform others of a new direction.

Nobody talks, just a gentle whistle to attract attention.

Then we find fresh dung.

One of the rangers, Martin Nawaseb, squats to check its temperature. It's still hot.

Feeling close, we increase our pace and come to view a riverbed.

The rhino is there, grazing.

When tracking black rhino, it's important to view them from a respectful distance.

He raises his head toward us; he knows something's up.

Keeping ourselves at a distance, we sit in silence and enjoy the tranquil landscape.

Martin writes down the GPS position in his logbook.

Tracking is an effective way to understand animal behavior.

The importance of pride

Rangers in Damaraland are proud of their job and the community looks up at people like Martin.

"Poaching is essentially not an issue anymore in Namibia because conservation efforts put local communities at the center," says Jeff Muntifering, a scientific advisor at SRT.

"It's become socially unacceptable; poachers are viewed as stealing from the community."

He says in Mozambique it's the opposite: poachers crossing the border to kill animals in South Africa are considered Robin Hoods, risking their lives to bring back to the community the little money paid by international syndicates trading in illegal ivory.

How to keep it going

While examples like STR in Namibia and tourism ventures such as the Rhino Desert Camp are the success stories of conservation, their effectiveness is being threatened again by a recent surge in poaching.

Fueled by a growing demand for rhino horn in Asia, 1,004 rhino were killed in 2013, up from 668 killed in 2012 and just 13 killed in 2007.