Seek
sightings of Maine’s creatures and critters on a snowmobile tour.

For many, the lure of snowmobiling is
speed. The thought of dashing through forests, fields, and hills on a sled bursting with
horsepower draws thousands of locals and tourists to the sport. Speed gets them outside
on even the coldest days, and allows them to cover vast areas of Maine’s backcountry in
a short period of time.

That’s wonderful, assuming the speed
is a safe one. But snowmobiling can also be a way to convene with, and learn about, wildlife—if
you’re traveling with an expert, and slowing down enough to sniff it out. That’s the philosophy
behind the wildlife snowmobile tours run from the Cozy Moose, a shoreside retreat and outfitter
in Greenville, at the southern tip of Moosehead Lake.

The full-day, guided tours focus on
finding wildlife and signs of wildlife by learning about the species’ natural environment.
“There’s all kinds of things to see, if you know where to look,” says Registered Maine Guide
Mike Witham of Monson, a tour leader who knows where to find snowshoe hares, eagles, bobcats,
owls, coyotes, and the one everyone wants to get a look at: moose. The goal is safe encounters,
for both riders and the animals.

Witham takes guests over a series of
trails, many outside of Maine’s Interconnected Trail System (ITS). Witham’s backcountry
trails generally aren’t as well documented on maps, making them less crowded, which increases
the chances for sightings.

“These are backcountry snowmobile trails, and you
wouldn’t be able to find them [on your own],” says Witham, a guide since 1975. “And you
wouldn’t be able to get back if you did. That’s the big thing.”

This winter, Witham is running the tours
on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays, in conjunction with
the Cozy Moose, which offers cabins and suites as part of a package deal.

The Cozy Moose is a mom-and-pop operation,
with Ron and Heather Davis as the lone full-time employees—though 11-year-old Trevor, who
is trained in snowmobile safety, first aid, and CPR, is always around to help.

The Davises rent snowmobiles; those
who take the wildlife tour do so on 2004 Ski-Doo 380 touring sleds, with room for one or
two people and an extra-long track that assures a smooth ride. The machines also have a
carrying rack that’s perfect for a camera bag.

“Everyone likes to ride new sleds,”
Heather says. “And these sleds are a dream.”

The day begins with a pre-ride discussion
of the riders’ skills and desires (as well as medical conditions), and outfitting. Novices
then have a chance to practice on a supervised loop. Afterwards, Witham escorts the group—usually
two to four people—to the ITS and the backcountry snowmobile trails.

“It’s about safety, and making people
feel comfortable,” Davis says. “It’s a guided tour, and it’s their tour. It’s not about
a fast, thrilling ride. And with all our rentals, guided or not, it’s not just, ‘Here’s
the key and the map and go.’”

Speeds are generally in the 25 to 30
mph range for the tour, and the guide will customize the length of the day’s run to match
the skill level of those on the tour. The ride usually starts off in the low-lying areas,
with a search for moose—and discarded moose antlers. Find them, and they’re yours to keep.
That’s a big goal for many riders, and Witham remembers a Pennsylvania family going home
with seven sets last year.

There’s no money-back guarantee of a
moose sighting, but Witham says there’s about a 50% chance. “I’ve seen six moose in 15 minutes,
and I’ve seen an eagle swoop down, right on the trail, and pick up a rabbit. But you never
know. I’ve seen a lot, and, usually, people will see a lot on this tour.”

Even without a wildlife sighting, the
tour offers a chance to see Maine’s backcountry from a new perspective, farther from civilization
than a lot of people get, especially in winter.

“We look for moose themselves, for where
they bed down, for where they’ve been fighting to knock their horns off,” Witham says. “And
we’ll stop at all these places and explain what the moose are up to. Then, as we ride, our
guests see more of these places and understand them.”

Other potential highlights are coyotes,
which often run on the trail and remain visible for long stretches. There are also some
old trapper’s cabins, where Witham can fill you in on what it was like to live out in the
woods in winter, decades ago.

Parts of the day are dedicated to reaching
some high spots with spectacular views of the area and its birds. There’s a break for lunch,
either at Witham’s own Spring Creek Cookhouse and Bar-B-Q Emporium in Monson, or at a restaurant
in Greenville, usually along the lake.

The tour is an excellent way to start
a snowmobiling vacation. “If people are coming up for a few days, spending a day with me
will save them time on the other days, and make their ride more enjoyable,” Witham says.
“I’ll tell them how to spot wildlife activity, and also how to get to the gas station, where
to go have lunch. I’ll put them on the right trail.”

Mike Woelflein

Everything
YOU need to know to visit The Cozy Moose.
Who should go: Outdoor enthusiasts of almost any age. Owners Heather and Ron Davis take
the time to learn about what riders want, hope to do and see, and are capable of. And the
guides tailor the length and level of challenge to the day’s group. (Note: The maine snowmobile tours are available for 18 yrs of age and older)

When to go: While the schedule may be
extended, the wildlife tour is offered Mondays through Wednesdays, beginning at 8:30 a.m.
It depends on the winter, but the season is most predictable from January 10 to March 1.
It can start as early as Christmas and run until early April. Snowfall reports and trail
conditions are available at www.mooseheadcabins.com.

Costs: Statewide, snowmobile rentals
are not cheap, generally running $150 to $225 per day. A big reason for rising rates is
the cost of liability insurance, which has doubled in just one season for many outfitters.
The wildlife tour is part of a lodging package at the Cozy Moose, which offers lakeside
cabins and suites. It’s $915 for two people, with two nights of lodging, two snowmobiles,
apparel, and a guide for one day. For non-guests, the rate of $1,025 covers four people,
four snowmobiles and a one-day guided tour; or two people for two days of touring. Call
for other packages and rates.

How to get there: From I-95, take Exit
39 (Newport, Dexter), and follow Rte. 7 north about 16 miles to Dexter. In Dexter, take
a left on Rte. 23, heading toward Guilford, and go about 15 miles to the junction of Rte.
15. Take a right, and follow Rte. 15 all the way to Greenville, about 27 miles. Just before
you come into town, you’ll pass a rest area on the right, and the Cozy Moose office will
be about an eighth of a mile farther, on the left. Check in there, and the Davises will
get you the rest of the way to the cabins (about six miles) or the trailhead. From the west,
take U.S. 2 east to Skowhegan, then Rte. 150 north to Guilford, and then Rte 15 as above.

Where to stay/eat: The Greenville area
is loaded with B&Bs, motels, and cabin rental outfits, many of which are open all winter.
Numerous restaurants in Greenville also cater to snowmobilers, and offer parking just off
the trail. Check out Snowmobile Maine’s Web site, www.mesnow.com, and click on “where to
eat, sleep, rent a sled, etc.” about halfway down the home page. For a filling pre- or post-ride
meal—if your guide doesn’t take you there—check out Spring Creek Cookhouse and Bar-B-Q Emporium
in Monson, about 12 miles south of Greenville on Rte. 15. It’s owned by guide Mike Witham
and his wife, Kim, who serve Texas-style barbecue in an atmosphere that could not be more
snowmobile-friendly. It’s open Thursdays through Sundays.

Whom to call:The Cozy Moose in Greenville,
at 207-695-0242 or 207-280-0407. Check www.mooseheadcabins.com, or e-mail the Davises at
cozymoose@mooseheadcabins.com. For guided tours, advanced reservations are required.