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To start off. I need to say I know very little about circuit boards. And I am a bit intimidated at the moment.

I bought something small to have the smallest amount invested.

I bought 2 strings of pixels and a pixie 16. I was going to buy the pixie4 but 40 bucks more for the pixie16 was a no brained to me. Now I see I should have stuck with the Pixie4

As far as power supply I have a meanwell 12volt 150w already purchased from a different project.

With the above I wanted to figure this all out before investing any more money.

Can I use the 150w power supply to run the board temporarily. I know this cannot run all the 16 ports. Only have two strings anyway. I just want to power two strings. And play with sequencing those strings to see if Pixels are for me.

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I wish the instruction for the pixie concentrated only on the pixie you bought. You have every model old and new.

I am asking question with out hooking it up. I really don’t want to get going and get stuck mid way.

More ???

Just clarifying I can power this board with out powering ports 9-16?

I am still a little cloudy on jumpers. But if I am right I don’t have to worry myself with any of them at this time. I don’t see me needing these features at this time. Is this correct?

Unit ID’s. I understand you set the first unit ID (port1) then ports 2-16 are all automatically named. My two AC controllers are named unit 1 and 2 and I also plan too add two more. Where I am cloudy is which unit ID I use. Are the AC unit IDs separate from the pixie?

I think I will need to turn dip switch to 0 so I can change the unit ID to what I think should be 20 , then the other ports will be named 21-29 and 2A-2F. Or can I name the unit ID to 0B?

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I wish the instruction for the pixie concentrated only on the pixie you bought. You have every model old and new.

I am asking question with out hooking it up. I really don’t want to get going and get stuck mid way.

More ???

Just clarifying I can power this board with out powering ports 9-16?

I am still a little cloudy on jumpers. But if I am right I don’t have to worry myself with any of them at this time. I don’t see me needing these features at this time. Is this correct?

Unit ID’s. I understand you set the first unit ID (port1) then ports 2-16 are all automatically named. My two AC controllers are named unit 1 and 2 and I also plan too add two more. Where I am cloudy is which unit ID I use. Are the AC unit IDs separate from the pixie?

I think I will need to turn dip switch to 0 so I can change the unit ID to what I think should be 20 , then the other ports will be named 21-29 and 2A-2F. Or can I name the unit ID to 0B?

That is correct, Use only the lower # ports

ALSO KISS

Set the ID to an even break of 16 start eg 10,20, 30 ... HEX (remember, HEX we use is base 0. Your port ID's would be 10, 11, 12...1E,1F Just remember you can NOT use ID 00 (another reason to skip the bottom ID's for Pixies)

You can have gaps in the Single ID assignments, only Pix*'s are assigned (consumed) by blocks

Yep (At least NU this week 😛 ) I have dumb controllers 01-06, and Pixie4s at 20, 30 At least 1 of those Pixies (locations) is going to be a Pixie8 next year and the old one moved. (I use CG1500 enclosures: 2 have a Pixie4, and a CMB24 +700W's of PSU's, the other 2 have just a CMB24 and a space and only 350W PSU) I have already ordered a 3rd color of CAT5 for the 3rd network .

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Yep (At least NU this week 😛 ) I have dumb controllers 01-06, and Pixie4s at 20, 30 At least 1 of those Pixies (locations) is going to be a Pixie8 next year and the old one moved. (I use CG1500 enclosures: 2 have a Pixie4, and a CMB24 +700W's of PSU's, the other 2 have just a CMB24 and a space and only 350W PSU) I have already ordered a 3rd color of CAT5 for the 3rd network .

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Yes, you are correct. There are a couple errors in that - that being one and then the step #’s being another that I know of.

Rught after creating u had asked admin to correct but they only stickied it at the top.

Hey, I never said I was perfect. With the hours spent creating that to save many more hours it made it all worth it

JR

I did not mean no offense JR. Your information is outstanding. Me seeing that just means now I know I understand Unit ID’s. I been think up until now I might have made a mistake, trying pixels. Biting of more than I can chew.......

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I did not mean no offense JR. Your information is outstanding. Me seeing that just means now I know I understand Unit ID’s. I been think up until now I might have made a mistake, trying pixels. Biting of more than I can chew.......

None taken, it sucked it posted but I proofed it after 5 or 6 hours of ensuring I didn’t miss anything I missed a couple.

Luckily they were not key. The admins/ mods were to busy to renumber the steps.

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If I was you I would Want the correct power supply prior to trying to figure it out.

Once it’s operational everything else is simple. I wouldn’t build it unless it was 100%. That’s just me though.

I would rather learn on something 100%.

If you are like me and get busy you may put it aside and 6 months later forget you have a small- very small ps and then try to figure out why 3/4 of the lights don’t work.

JR

Yea this will be temporary. I am the type that gets obsessed and will not stop. But since we are talking PSU this thing is going to need relative big one. I can see me adding 100 pixels at least per port. So that would require 1152w PSU. The math says that but really?

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Yea this will be temporary. I am the type that gets obsessed and will not stop. But since we are talking PSU this thing is going to need relative big one. I can see me adding 100 pixels at least per port. So that would require 1152w PSU. The math says that but really?

Your number is good. You would probably run 2 @ 750's. 1 per bank

Also note. that is getting close to the limit for a 15A wall outlet (2 cords) ~11A using 80% PSU efficiency (might be a bit better, but not much). Personally, I might run that on 240V (I have a 6-20R in the garage for my Radial Arm) That would be a single 3 wire cord, just different plugs/outlet

Done any and all help is appreciated. I am thinking, I might have stepped into something I should have not. I liked to hook this up too see if I can even get it to work before buying anything more. I hope you can understand that.

I have two PC one running my show and the other which I upgrade to S5. I used SE only to do everything in S4 (2 AC controllers). No use of visualizer no use of PE. I am learning basically everything as I go so I figured I might as well learn it all on S5. Might be biting off a heck of a lot more than I want to chew. I’ll try anything once.

Also note. that is getting close to the limit for a 15A wall outlet (2 cords) ~11A using 80% PSU efficiency (might be a bit better, but not much). Personally, I might run that on 240V (I have a 6-20R in the garage for my Radial Arm) That would be a single 3 wire cord, just different plugs/outlet

Yea I figured I was going to have to add a couple more plugs to the house. Anytime I add a breaker to a house I usually go with 20 amp (12-2). Why construction companies use 15 amp is beyond me. The cost is negligible.

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Yea I figured I was going to have to add a couple more plugs to the house. Anytime I add a breaker to a house I usually go with 20 amp (12-2). Why construction companies use 15 amp is beyond me. The cost is negligible.

Wait can LOR run off 220? I thought it was only 120....

The (right) PSU's can run off 220. They supply 12V to LOR. (You could run Pixies or a CMB24 from a car battery, but at those power levels, it might last 15min). The advantages of 220V is smaller wire or ability to do longer runs without having to bump wire size..

While, you could buy a European version of the CTB16PC, the strings would also have to be 230V. Now that we have switched to LEDs, most don't push the limits of 1 cord (per bank), let alone 2 cords. BUT those would be more expensive due to shipping and all the cords would be different (Only industrial/construction cords come wit L6 series ends)

15A breakers(and 14Ga wire) are mostly used on Lighting circuits. Only dedicated equipment (Furnace, Dishwasher,Microwave) might get 15A Mostly because the wire costs less and contractors squeeze pennies.

I've rewired 3 houses. Pulled at least a dozen electrical nightmares out of this house (Major code violations:fire hazards, reversed wires). , I've worked on everything from 5VDC to 480 3-phase)