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Vintage Television and VideoVintage television and video equipment, programmes, VCRs etc.

Hi Jarl. It depends how old you are! When I were a lad we always called it A1 (first anode). Now it is more commonly known as G2. Strangely enough, if I am working on a colour set I call it G2 but when working on old sets, I call it A1 .

Rich.

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'And, in the end, the love you take is equal to the love you make'
The Beatles.

Lol, well as this is my first TV I am just going on what the diagram and what others call it so A1 it is.

Well I still have that odd fault and need the meter on to get a full frame pic now. I have just finished recapping the IF panel and changing some very black resistors that were very very low in value. Mainly the trio of 470r resistors in the middle of the chassis.

Andi

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Life is long, life is short, both of these a daunting thought.

Hi Andi, temporarily connect a 2M2 from the tube in place of the meter (or whatever the equivalent meter resistance is).
This sounds almost like the case of old radios that would burst into life for a min or so when the grid was probed with a meter as the grid leak had gone O/C and the grid was charging up with no leakage path.

ok after looking at the circuit I know I cant just feed signals onto any of these pins as there is a very substancial voltage on them. and not what should be I dont think...

Going to do some metering...

I know its been mentioned before and I'm not saying it can't be fixed with just a meter but IMHO a 'scope would **really** make your life easier for fault finding signal and video circuitry. Is there any way you can get a X10 probe for your ‘scope? It would be well worth the small expenditure, especially if you plan on doing more TV’s (and I bet you will once you get this one going) eBay usually has some “floating around", I know Jim has offered one. As a last resort Farnell have low bandwidth ones for a few quid: -

I am very unsure about using my scope on valve stuff. I don't want to fry anything... Also the trader sheet is very limited, no information about what to expect scope-wise and I have no clue what I am actually looking for...

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Life is long, life is short, both of these a daunting thought.

Hi Andi, this is where running an AC/DC tele through an isolating transformer becomes useful as there is no "common mode" voltage on the chassis that can zap the test equipment when it's ground is commoned to the test equipment ground.
There are "dirty" techniques you can use but not worth trying if you are unsure of what you are doing.

The signal lead is not so much of a problem. A suitable value capacitor for the frequency of the signal being applied, and of a suitable working voltage will block the DC and get some sort of signal through. Getting the levels right and a good picture is a different matter!

Before assuming there is a front-end fault, are you sure your standards converter is producing a signal on the right channel for your TV ? I'm just thinking about London and Birmingham versions.....just a thought.

Rich.

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'And, in the end, the love you take is equal to the love you make'
The Beatles.

The first is how I found it. It was on ebay in Stratford which isn't far and I managed to negotiate a deal if I went round there and then, the asking price was £75 but I got him down to £60 because the tube was in 2 halves (see 5th picture).....

The sawdust is all that is left of the left wooden support bar from the kind woodworm, the right one although not looking bad was just as bad...

Pics 3 and 4, this is how the case looks now, I havent finished the polishing yet and also havent tried Nick's lolly stick idea (apologies if it was someone else but I am terrible without looking back) as I thought it was much more important to get it working, than making it pretty.

Thanks

Andi

Attached Thumbnails

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Life is long, life is short, both of these a daunting thought.

There are probably somewhere like 100 pics so far, of the various strip and rebuild. I always take plenty when wanting to remove a complete tag board like the one on this that holds the power resistors and frame decoupling caps, and also the frame oscillator transformer.

Hope they are ok. Like I said I am planning a website to do with the whole TV22 experience; just like the day in the life we used to read in Television. Was is Les Lawry Johns?

Andi

PS I know the .75uf cap isn't soldered very neatly but this is a 'get it working' job and will tidy up things like that once it's finished...

Attached Thumbnails

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Life is long, life is short, both of these a daunting thought.

I used to read 'Television' just because of that column when I was in school as we (4 electronics club nutters who used to go round the skips of Multibroadcast, etc for boards) petitioned the library to add it to their periodicals.

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Life is long, life is short, both of these a daunting thought.

OK This is a long shot but if my friend and I are correct in our assumptions we think we know now why I don't have a picture on the TV when I attach the antenna.

This IF stage when I got it had a band III converter fitted which I have removed. The thing is... What modifications had to be done to the IF panel to fit the band III converter to start with?
I need to reverse whatever mods were made.

Regards

Andi

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Life is long, life is short, both of these a daunting thought.

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