As I understand it, if you have Digital 1 in use for an HDMI device, then Input 1 is useless. Same goes for Digital 2. Tthat makes Input 2 useless. It's either one or the other. Frustrating because even though you have componant cables connected to input 1, you get no picture if you are using HDMI on DIG1. I've been trying to get it to work, but everything I have read says that it can't be done.

I just reread that you said 'from different sources', I still don't think it would work but I'll try that out tomorrow. Anyone else have any ideas. Seems like if you use HDMI, then the other inputs are useless.

I'm confused. Your discussion only applies if you want sound through the TV, right? Because I have the STB on HDMI1, the OPPO on HDMI2, my multi-disc DVD changer on Input 1 component and my PS2 on Input 2 component. I only use the TV speakers for the PS2. Everything works great...

The 659, 767 & 680 are less expensive. The 659 I believe can be had around $90 w/o rebate.

The 880 has an enormous appetite for batteries and needs to use rechargeable batteries. Also the buttons are close together and one can't aquire a 'feel' for the buttons without looking at the remote first since thay all feel the same.

I agree. I am actually considering returning mine to Costco because I just can't get used to the buttons. They are really small and I find myself keeping the component remotes handy beacuse it's such a pain in the ass to use. I may try to tweak the remote to make it do what I want, but overall I am not impressed.

As I understand it, if you have Digital 1 in use for an HDMI device, then Input 1 is useless. Same goes for Digital 2. Tthat makes Input 2 useless. It's either one or the other. Frustrating because even though you have componant cables connected to input 1, you get no picture if you are using HDMI on DIG1. I've been trying to get it to work, but everything I have read says that it can't be done.

I just reread that you said 'from different sources', I still don't think it would work but I'll try that out tomorrow. Anyone else have any ideas. Seems like if you use HDMI, then the other inputs are useless.

I don't know where you get you info from. I have my STB attached by HDMI to Dig 1 and DVD attached by component cables to Video 1. No problems with the video. Audio goes through my receiver. All controlled by a Harmony 880.

I've seen several recent statements in this thread (and elsewhere, e.g. this recent CNET review) that these JVC sets can't do 1080p over the HDMI input... however, this seems to contradict the actual experience of some of the owners posting earlier in this thread, such as "warren3250":

Unfortunately, his screenshots are no longer available, but he was apparently able to drive an HD-61FH96 at 1920x1080 through HDMI using a PC with an nVidia 6600 GT card.

Also, in the very first post in this thread, HD-56FH96 owner MillerDuck reports that "1080p input over HDMI is accepted (Tested with DVI - HDMI PC connection)", and later makes several other posts that would appear to confirm this, including some screenshots of 1080p movie trailers being played on his TV using an HTPC (link)

So what gives? Can anyone definitively confirm (or deny) that these sets can be driven at full 1920x1080p (i.e. non-interlaced) resolution from a PC through the HDMI port? The preponderance of evidence from owners in this thread seems to indicate that they can, but I'm curious why so many claims to the contrary keep appearing.

I don't know where you get you info from. I have my STB attached by HDMI to Dig 1 and DVD attached by component cables to Video 1 using companant cables. No problems with the video. Audio goes through my receiver. All controlled by a Harmony 880.

My bad. I have been testing the HDMI device along with the same device using component cables in input 1. Screws things up if they are the same device. I will try different devices tonight - thanks for the insight. I read somewhere in the manual that if you use Dig1, it is internally connected to input 1 - rendering it 'one or the other'. Once again it all comes down to how it is interpreted. Obviously it appears to mean with the SAME device connected since others have had good luck with different devices.

So what gives? Can anyone definitively confirm (or deny) that these sets can be driven at full 1920x1080p (i.e. non-interlaced) resolution from a PC through the HDMI port? The preponderance of evidence from owners in this thread seems to indicate that they can, but I'm curious why so many claims to the contrary keep appearing.

The million dollar question. Most of it seems to stem from Windows and/or the driver utility for the video card giving inconsistent information.

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Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way. If you like Wi-Fi so much, OTA fits right in. After all, it is wireless.

So what gives? Can anyone definitively confirm (or deny) that these sets can be driven at full 1920x1080p (i.e. non-interlaced) resolution from a PC through the HDMI port? The preponderance of evidence from owners in this thread seems to indicate that they can, but I'm curious why so many claims to the contrary keep appearing.

Yes, I'm driving my 61FH96 from a Radeon X600 at 1920x1080@60. I downloaded and played all the 1080P WMHD clips without problems. One key is to try NOT use ATI drivers to do HD because it assumes either 720P or 1080i. Instead just use MCE driver to drive it. It won't treat it as HD, but FP instead. The downside is you won't be able to see bootup screen. But that's Ok. Just wait for the Windows login screen.

Don't trust anyone who makes claim without actually having a JVC set and tried it using PC for a few days.

Hey everyone.
I have a JVC HD56FH96 and have fought through the HDMI shutdowns and numerous Comcast DVR's to get the set going.
One problem I can't resolve is with the JVC remote. I have to start the TV manually on the front and after that, the remote works fine including turning it off.
Anyone have any ideas?

Did you get an HD70FH96? I really need to know the actual width of the set. I'm attaching info here about my situation.

I am in the process of updating to HD from an old MIts 4:3 format. I think I'm in love with the HD70FH96, but JVC seems to be keeping everything about this unit cloaked in secrecy. Customer service would not be their strong suit! Anyway, I can't find one in the Denver area to look at; and, since I have a width constraint in my built-in entertainment center, the width is a major concern. According to all of the on-line sellers (and JVC's website!) it is 62.xx inches wide. When I finally got someone at JVC to respond, they sent me a Tech Sheet that says it's 64-1/8" wide. Since I can't physically find one to measure, maybe somebody has already taken delivery on the 70" model. Can you help??

I'm coming from an 55 inch HD Mits that I had to tweak the bejesus out of to get a decent picture and that included using a laptop to change stuff in eeproms to get rid of the red push.
I have had the unit for a week now and I'm very impressed by the picture right out of the box. Only watched one DVD so far and I think I saw a yellow tint but have a vague memory from this thread that this is fixable. (Reading the whole string is mindboggling). I'm not sure about the antiglare, perhaps someone else would know, this is not an issue for me. The onecall experience was very good, the only surprise was the curbside only deivery. I did know before I bought it that there was no return to onecall and service issues would be handled via JVC and I would have liked to buy it locally but nobody carried it so I went ahead anyway. Again, the picture is great!

... I think I saw a yellow tint but have a vague memory from this thread that this is fixable. (Reading the whole string is mindboggling). ... Again, the picture is great!

Hope this helps.

/Peter

In Theater Pro mode - with the iris at 25% open - it appeared a bit yellowish or brownish to me too. Game and Standard at 75% open iris had no tint, but the DVE DVD's yellow color bar seemed greenish, and the 75% and 100% green screens blinded. I toned down the red and green drives a bit and I feel the colors are much better now. Here's a link to my post on a thread by "videobruce" describing how to access the service menu. I'd suggest getting the DVE or the Avia? or other calibration disk first, so you have some input color bars, etc.http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7249247

Quote:

Originally Posted by finehomes

Thanks for the help. Anybody else out there have experience with the 70 incher? Also, I'm interested in hearing about your on-line buying experiences - good or bad.

Costco.com was excellent and their delivery price included placing on a table in my living-room. But currently their website only shows the 61" under - electronics; televisions; p.3, (they remove sets from their website when they are out of stock. Twice now since Dec. on the 70", and there is no way to know if it will return).

They have a 100% money back return policy that includes refund of shipping charges, (they could change this so check their customer service page and copy on the date of any purchases). The bad part is if it is a small issue, and you still want to keep the set, you would pay since they are not factory authorized, but for big issues it is great since you don't want most of today's technicians touching your set anyway.

They are not the cheapest, but their return policy is worth any difference. They also take out for state sales tax if your state charges it. In my state you are required by law to pay this anyway, even if you purchase from out of state, (they call it a use tax), so you might want to factor this into any apparent bargains from other states.

My set has not had any issues. Not as feature packed as many TVs, but the picture is breath-taking. Excellent in both very bright to completely dark rooms. Being able to see a picture this great in any lighting is what makes this set so ideal for most people. Perfect for video games too! X-box 360 over component is so very impressive at 70 inches!

Standard Definition is fair to good, but on some Direct TV low def. material - very good, (a couple of times I checked to see if I was actually on a HD channel)! Component DVD very good to excellent, up-converting DVD over HDMI very good to excellent, HD Over The Air excellent, Direct TV HD good to excellent. And the sound is very good too. For movies I use my surround system but often just use the TV's speakers for TV.

I'd buy this model again after owning it for a bit more than a month and a half.
HD-xxFH96 r
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Just a note on adjusting color. You have to interacting elements. Grayscale and color decoder. In adjusting grayscale, that's where you get into adjusting cuts and drives to achieve neutral gray across a grayscale patter such is found in DVE. Color decoder settings set the saturation and tint of each of the 3 primary colors (red,green, blue) and their compliments. A common mistake is where people adjust cuts and drives thinking that they're affecting the color decoder. Well, in a way they are, but only as a side effect. A good example of this is if your grayscale is set too blue, then your reds will have a blue shift as well.

When correctly set, the yellow on the color bars should appear a leamon yellow. What that means can be interpreted, but I think it means is that it should be cool yellow.

In Thearter Mode, the set will lean towards 'green'. Find a B&W program, or better yet turn the color down all the way in a light controlled room and see for yourself. The image will have a green tint to it.
That will give the yellowish tinge when watching material in color.

This isn't the color decoder, just grey scale which is adjustable. I wouldn't zero out the green completely since it will affect other parameters under under conditions.

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Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way. If you like Wi-Fi so much, OTA fits right in. After all, it is wireless.

"In Theater Pro mode - with the iris at 25% open - it appeared a bit yellowish or brownish to me too. "

This is what I have warned my fellow AVS forum members about, the JVC's have a problem with yellowish tint in the Theater Mode. I'm not trying to put down members TV's, but its just the truth about those displays, eventually you will find that most unsatisfactory especially when you see the 06 models without that problem.

"In Theater Pro mode - with the iris at 25% open - it appeared a bit yellowish or brownish to me too. "

I find it to be warmer and more natural. It is a big shock from Standard though, going from 75% to 25%. It takes a couple minutes to adjust to the difference but in the long run I think it is better. That's just my opinion.

Just a note on adjusting color. You have to interacting elements. Grayscale and color decoder. In adjusting grayscale, that's where you get into adjusting cuts and drives to achieve neutral gray across a grayscale patter such is found in DVE. Color decoder settings set the saturation and tint of each of the 3 primary colors (red,green, blue) and their compliments. A common mistake is where people adjust cuts and drives thinking that they're affecting the color decoder. Well, in a way they are, but only as a side effect. A good example of this is if your grayscale is set too blue, then your reds will have a blue shift as well.

When correctly set, the yellow on the color bars should appear a leamon yellow. What that means can be interpreted, but I think it means is that it should be cool yellow.

My DVE program only included a hand-held color filter, (not a hand held gray filter to calibrate to), so my adjustments were made based on the Service Manual's recommended setting vs. my set's Service Menu's initial values, and the subjective look of grays patterns, which didn't help a whole lot w/o a filter, and the subjective look of the color bars, where the yellow color bar was obviously too greenish - more of a under-ripe lemon than a nice ripe lemon yellow.

R=136, G=138, B=138 are the Service Manual's recommended values.

R=138, G=136, B=133 were my set's initial Service Menu settings.

R=132, G=128, B=133 were the values that I settled on, [until I buy a hand-held gray filter to use withe the DVE gray patterns. Subjectively much better for all iris settings].

Since the recommended red setting was less than the blue I dropped it to 131 leaving the blue at 133, (later I increased the red by one to 132). The green was stepped down until the 75% yellow screen looked yellow with no greenish tinge. This seemed best at 128. The 75% and 100% green screens had been way brighter than blue and red screens previously, but now were similar.

videobruce, I did get a chance to watch a few minutes of a b&w movie recently, Young Frankenstein, and it looked amazing. Also, on the DVE disk they show a space shuttle launch both in color and in b&w, and I definitely like my set better since the Service Menu settings were adjusted. Thank you for sharing the great information in your thread "Just what's inside a JVC 1080 D-ILA?".

Auditor55, So let me get this straight - "eventually you will find that most unsatisfactory especially when you see the 06 models without that problem." Bottom line is few clicks on the remote and major differences can easily be made. I don't understand why you consider this to be a defect. Most videophiles realize that a professional ISF calibration is required to get the best out of a given model. With this set the majority of owners can easily improve the settings, and just as easily change them back to original if needed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawkman427

I find it to be warmer and more natural. It is a big shock from Standard though, going from 75% to 25%. It takes a couple minutes to adjust to the difference but in the long run I think it is better. That's just my opinion.

That is an excellent point.

All, If you have a yellowish or brownish tinge in Theater mode, (and if it bugs you), follow the link and start at my post in videobruce's thread, and you'll be loving your '05 HD-xxFH96 even more than the vast majority of the owners already do. This set's picture is amazing, and I highly recommend it.

hi everyone, im looking into buying the HD-70FH96, is anyone using the rkcilal6 like in the sound and vision mag review, i like that stand the best but on jvcs website they dont say that this stand works with the newer 70incher. does anyone know if it will work, thanx chris wheres the best and cheapest place to order this set. i live in ct and no stores offer them. not even tweeter , or bestbuy,

I am very frustrated. I was very excited about purchasing a 70 inch JVC TV (HD70FH96, 1080p). I heard and read excellent reviews about the product.
I got my Sat. receiver/dish updated to the latest and greatest (which
has HDMI output) from DirectTV. I purchased a DENON DVD-3910 DVD player (with HDMI output). I got everything hooked up properly with the help of a local
Home Theater specialist. I tried to watch TV and a DVD through my JVC TV and
nothing comes up with either device using HDMI. The TV doesn't recognize the inputs. I don't get anything on my TV, just a blank screen. I am not using the sound through my HDMI connection. I have tried everything to get it to work. I have reset the TV and still the digital inputs do not work. Other connections work (component), but I purchased the TV so I could go to HDMI. I was very frustrated and contacted JVC (who by the way and please tell your viewers have HORRIBLE customer service). After making several calls to them they told me that I needed to get an upgrade to my digital connections. They stated that this is a known problem and told me to call a service center near me so I did that. First question was, Why would they ship these expensive TVs with known problems? Why wouldn't they fix the product before they ship them out? I thought it would have taken a few days for them to come out, but when I contacted the local service center they told me it would be a minimum of two weeks. This is when I started getting very upset. I called JVC back and after explaining to them that it's unacceptable to purchase a nearly $7000.00 TV with these kind of problems and this kind of service. They said that they would call my local service center and see what they could do. After being on hold for over 30 minutes, they came back and said that they could get an appointment 5 days later (of course during the week so I had to take a vacation day). I said I will take it and thanked them for their help. I asked if I needed to call the local service center to provide additional information and the JVC customer service rep said, "Nope, I passed on all your information. They will be their on Friday at 1:00PM". Well, 1:00 PM came and went so I decided to call the local service center and see if they were running late. They asked for my information and they said that they have no appointment scheduled for me and told me that they have no one scheduled to service my area that date. Now I became very upset. I called JVC Customer Support back and finally got to someone on the phone after 30 minutes on hold. They said that customer service reps aren't supposed to set up appointments and that they would have a supervisor call me before the days is out.

I worked with the local retailer where I got the TV and they said that they received 4 shipments for the TV that I bought on the same day and most likely would ALL have the same problem. So, I asked them if they could try it real quick and sure enough they couldn't get HDMI to work with another component. So what good does it do exchanging the TV?

Please pass along to your listeners that JVC has significant problems with their product. Why would they ship an expensive TV if they knew
that it had HDMI compatibility issues? They refuse to replace the TV? Wouldn't that make the most sense after this ordeal to see if they could possibly retain a customer. They also have significant problems with their customer service department.

One would think it was a disease. As I and others reported, it is easily corrected.
Will you please stop with the green/yellow tint issue already.

Nope. Read post 1544. I think I would be doing a disservice to fellow forum members if I didn't inform new owners and potential owners about the pitfalls of the JVC's. More and more information is coming out about JVC's and their problems, that could only help consumers.

JVC TV (HD70FH96, 1080p). I purchased a DENON DVD-3910 DVD player (with HDMI output). I tried to watch TV and a DVD through my JVC TV and
nothing comes up with either device using HDMI. The TV doesn't recognize the inputs. I don't get anything on my TV, just a blank screen. I am not using the sound through my HDMI connection. Any ideas on how I can get better help from JVC?
Here is my config:

Todd, Just for grins, try this. Using the HDMI #1 on the back of the JVC, run a set of analog AUDIO cables to the audio 1 IN on the JVC from the analog audio OUT on the Denon hooked to the HDMI # 1 on the JVC. Unhook your other HDMI connection for now. Cycle the JVC to digital # 1 IN using the INPUT button on the JVC remote (First make sure your Denon on the JVC's digital #1 IN doesn't have a switch to set the unit to HDMI out). If this doesn't work, reset the HDMI on your JVC by following the easy to use instructions found on ths thread.

I don't know anything about the Denon, but you may want to connect a composite video cable from the Denon to the JVC #1 video IN and set your JVC on video one to run through the Denon's menu looking for a setting you are missing.