But if you have absolutely no intention of getting into the saddle, however sweet the horses look, no problem. There are safaris in 4x4s and Jeeps, or you can take a mini-cruise up the Petit Rhône on the Tikki III, or hire bicycles - although this option is better attempted in the early morning or late afternoon. Only mad dogs and Englishmen would cycle round the Camargue in the middle of the day. Gardians do it on horseback.

Before you do rush down here, however, bear in mind that in mid-summer, it can be extremely hot, with a lot of flies and mosquitoes. Make sure the accommodation you pick has screens on the windows (or air conditioning), and bring plenty of ‘mozzie spray’.

The best months to come, to escape the heat and insects, are April-June and September-November.

Interesting Camargue Towns & Villages:

Aigues-Mortes

Aigue-Mortes is a stunning walled town set back from the coast. It was at one time on the coast, built by Louis IX in the 13th century as a port for departing crusaders. Years of silt, however, meant that the coast moved progressively outwards, leaving the town and ‘port’ stranded inland. The town is surrounded by 1.7km of imposing stone walls, which you can climb to the top of. Aigues-Mortes became, in the 16th and 17th centuries a ‘safe haven’ for persecuted protestants, but was eventually used as a prison for protestant ‘Huguenots’ after the famous ‘Edict of Nantes’.

Today, the town is a buzzy and beautiful tourist trap, brimming with tourist shops and restaurants. It’s definitely worth a visit - just to see the towering walls. Some of the restaurants aren’t bad either, and it’s a great place to escape to for an evening drink after frying on Espiguette beach or horse riding in the Camargue itself.

Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer

The heart of the Camargue lies fair and square in Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer (“Les Saintes” pop: 2,000). This little town is right on the sea and in spite of being grossly commercialised, manages to remain charming, authentic and pretty. Swarthy men play boules in the “place des Gitans”, there are statues of famous bulls, and the tourist office is nigh on buried by heaps of fishing nets.

The Church in the centre of Les Saintes, fortified in the C14th against pirates, contains the statue of “Black Sarah”, venerated by Romany Gypsies, who gather here every year (May 24-25) for a religious festival. The tower is worth climbing for the panoramic views from the roof (the ideal place to relax and eat a sandwich).

Camargue Beaches:

Espiguette Beach

Espiguette beach is, in some ways, the very best in all of Languedoc. It’s absolutely huge, running for miles between the Grau du Roi into Provence. It’s wide too - an enormous expanse of wild sand with not a house, shop, restaurant or bar in sight. As a result, it’s very popular (further down the beach) with nudists and gays. You’re guaranteed space here, unlike the crowded beaches of La Grande Motte or Narbonne. The car park is large and free, but you may have to walk quite a distance to find your own plot of sand if you don’t come early. Bring plenty of drinks, as you can’t rely on beach drink sellers. Pop into nearby Aigues Mortes for lunch or an evening drink after taking in the sun.

Fun ways to explore the Camargue

By Paddle Steamer

The Tikki III is a traditional red-painted paddle steamer operating from the mouth of the Petit Rhône from mid-March to November. Featuring quirky commentary (in French) and stopping half way in order to watch a “gardienne” drive a small herd of bulls down to the water, this is a couple of hours well-spent - especially for the saddle-sore.

Les Calèches de Camargue: Discover the Camargue's bulls, horses and wilderness from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Return to the Mazet to taste the local wines and delicacies and Camarguaise music.

Prices:
€50 for the ride and full lunch.
€25 under 12s, €10 for under 4s
€35 for the ride and a picnic.
€20 under 12s, €10 for under 4s

There are three main walking trails around the protected central area of the Camargue.

You can skirt the Réserve des Impériaux along a drovers' path, the draille de Méjanes, between Cacharel, 4km north of Ste-Maries, and the D37 just north of Méjanes.

Another trail, with one of the best observation points for flamingos, follows the dyke between the Étangs du Fangassier and Galabert, starting 5km west of Salin-de-Giraud.

Between these two is the Digue à la Mer running just back from the beach of Stes-Maries' bay.

Rice Paddy Walking Tours

Riz Attelage Camargue. In order to encourage the development of rice- growing knowledge and to promote the harnessing culture of the Camargue, “Riz Attelage Camargue” offers guided hiking tours or harness tours (reservation recommended).

The Musée Camarguais between Arles and Les Saintes, housed in a tradition sheep barn, gives a wonderful insight into the development and history of the area.

The Musée Baroncelli covers the history of the gypsies’ annual procession to the sea with Sarah, along with Camarguais traditions, flora and fauna. Opening times of both museums vary, for information contact the tourist office.