Yes it is. Don't you sass me boy- I know the truth. So many little moments go by that fan fire on the stoke, but for most those very same moments would cause an insta-regression into fetal thumb-suckery. How did I get here- how did I find this place?

After a successful three day sojourn in Colorado, ct came out to California for one last trip before being enveloped in legal studies for another year. We vacillated between the Needles and the Hulk, but eventually settled on the adventure of going to a place that neither of us had been to before. We stopped at a Walmart in Porterville to pick up a cooler, and an endcap demanded a photograph. Did you know that you can buy pool floaties that function as a backpack, remington shotgun shells, paintball 'marker', and a basketball- and all of these items are priced below $99?!!!

gawd bless muhrica

Credit: snowhazed

By phone the ranger had assured me that the road to the Needles was passable in a 2wd sedan, but at midnight we hit a rut- literally- and were forced to bivy. Since the lookout burned down traffic has plummeted, and now 4wd is mandatory, and clearance would certainly speed things up. THe next morning we built a bridge out of rocks and then painstakingly navigated the rest of the rough rutted road to the campground.

Proof that we got the a5 back there. Thank you quattro

Credit: snowhazed

The hike to the notch between the Witch and the Sorcerer is a good three miles; the heat and face-humping flies made things quite unpleasant. Luckily the notch provided some fly clearing wind and we were able to appreciate the soaring white and yellow monoliths before us.

The Sorcerer

Credit: snowhazed

Our introduction would be Airy Interlude 10 a/b. The old book said 'singles or doubles, nothing big, nothing small'. Armed with a single rack save for 2 green camalots, I set off on the first 70 meter pitch. This season I have really been enjoying getting after hard 5.11 in the alpine. So much so- that I had forgotten the joy of climbing 5.8 and 5.9 at 8000 feet. ct introduced me to the term 'a giggler'. As in- that pitch is a giggler cause you will laugh your way up it. The rock just moved itself underneath me, I placed 6 pieces in those 70 meters and it was an unparalleled pleasure- you know- if you're into that sorta thing.

P1 Airy Interlude

Credit: snowhazed

ct then stretched the next 70 meter pitch to the top. A little bit of 5.10 but mostly some of the most I can't articulate head-shakingly fun 5.9 I've ever laid hands on- sustained and locker. I think ct enjoyed himself mightily running the last 60 feet of climbing with one piece on his belt- a truly awesome welcome route.

P2 Airy Interlude

Credit: snowhazed

Looking back down the traverse

Credit: snowhazed

We dropped a rope down on Ankles Away- an incredible 11d tips splitter- and both eeked out the tronsight. That would be a booold lead. Stash gear, hike back.

Hiking back in the next morning (miles 7-10 so far- if you're into that sorta thing) was cooler, but the flies still wanted to make sweet sweet love to my face. The notch cleared them away and we waited for the Sorcerer to go into the shade. We started to rock, paper, scissors for the crux pitch- when abruptly I claimed it. I'm a straight-in crack junkie- power liebacking has long been one of my biggest weaknesses- and the only way to break free from the weakness is to go do it. Atlantis 11c would be just the ticket.

Can see all 4 pitches

Credit: snowhazed

Next thing I know I am mid 5.10 power underclinging and liebacking with groundfall potential. In my head I'm saying to myself "might as well- there's some 11 liebacking waiting for you." The crack turns vertical and splitter- but throws in some liebacking up top- just for fun.

P1 Atlantis

Credit: snowhazed

ct navigates a tricky start to P2 and then cruises. Now it is go time. I get some great gear in off of the belay- but I am going to have to punch it on 11c lieback with a nasty slab fall waiting for me. I have a few fits and sh*ts trying to figure out how to start- but once I do my identity is lost and I am the very activity I have initiated. I grab the horizontal, fire in some pro, and then send the techy and pumpy rest of the pitch. Grade-wise it is one of my finest on-sights to date and that is quite a nice feeling- if you're into that sorta thing.

P3

Credit: snowhazed

The moves off the belay for pitch 4 are awkward, sequential, climb above your gear 11-, and ct blasts through it. The climbing here is powerful and committing- I think I like this place! We only have the one rope- so we rap into the notch and then climb Spooky- a very unique 5.9 to get us out of there. ct takes the 10b (cough cough 5.11) variation to the second pitch to avoid the OW.

Spooky follows the corner to the ledge- the variation climbs the arete in the sun/shade line and then up the ridiculous runnel tufa line

Credit: snowhazed

Look ma, no hands kneebar

Credit: snowhazed

Yes those are granite tufas. Yes I am wearing a 3D gopro

Credit: snowhazed

Hike out, hike back in. 15 miles now.

Day 3 almost didn't happen- we were running out of water. The cooler water is fine yeah? Beer label glue has nutrition I am sure of it. Instead we ran into a German who was visiting the states for the 2nd time. The first time was 25 years ago and he went to Colorado. We tell him that we had just climbed the Diamond 2 weeks earlier- and of course he says "I climbed the Diamond 25 years ago, D7." The same route we had just climbed! I love the community. While we were on Atlantis, he and his Canadian friend left us a bunch of water and made day 3 on The Don Juan Wall 11b possible. Thanks boys!

snowhazed follows P1

Credit: snowhazed

Where Atlantis is cruxy, Don Juan is sustained. The 9+ first pitch is cool and a great warmup- and then I am off on the crux pitch. Incredible sustained fingers lead to a bulge and a very hard to read sequence. I whipped nicely here before figuring it out- and surprise surprise- liebacking to victory.

P2

Credit: snowhazed

ct follows P2

Credit: snowhazed

The next pitch is listed as 10c and is kinda reminiscent of the 10b flare on The Crucifix- except much more strenuous and much less secure. Call it 10c OW and I guess (I did do all sorts of tubing and funky footery) otherwise cough cough 5.11. Sandbagged grades are good!... say it with me now- if you're into that sorta thing.

This is the only rest- otherwise hold the line!

Credit: snowhazed

The next pitch is a beauty- super sustained 10+ and 10 on immaculate rock.

P4 Don Juan

Credit: snowhazed

The camera died- so no photos of the wicked green 5.11 roof pull on pitch 5. The changing corners and bulge pulls after are all top notch. Burly in the best kind of way (I don't even need to type it again- you're already saying it in your head).

Credit: snowhazed

Credit: snowhazed

Credit: snowhazed

No crowds, F-18s corkscrewing by 100 feet off the deck, committing climbing on perfect aesthetic rock. 18 miles of hiking, cooler water ingestion and horrendously slow off-roading in the a5. Paradise. You know, if you're into that sorta thing.

I wish the Tennessee boys I met there would post their TR. I don't think they had time for photos though. An example of just one day they had was Thin Ice, Atlantis, and Airy Interlude. Cool linkup, I think! You discover at Needles, the pitch count seems to go waaaay down, so a 9 pitch day becomes well stout.

Sometimes you try to fool yourself but you discover, hey, I'm NOT into that sort of thing! But good on ya, good on ya if you are and can hack it...

Also, I'm pretty sure the Needles is where the mountain Gods go to vacation in summer.

Nice TR! Ya just gotta love that Don Juan wall. IMHO it is one of the finest outings in the Needles. I always thought that 3rd pitch was 5.10d and funky. The rattly fingers at the end of pitch 2 is the business I think, but the entire route is quite sustained. Sounds like you had a great visit.

After waiting so many years to get there... the Needles did NOT disappoint. Snowhazed is on a roll this year, both with hard pitches and the awesome trip write-ups. Such an amazing place, and such a pleasure to share it with a great friend.

If the Needles were a country club (if you are into that) there would be a membership waiting list a mile long.
If the Needles were heaven, more of us would be Christians?
I climbed there with Jim Shirley in the eighties, about three trips. Needles had been on my mind ever since I heard way back in the late sixties Fred Beckey had been there not long before and endorsed it, saying there was so much potential.

It far exceeded my expectations: Scenic background of the Kern is unmatchable; climbing is as good as it gets; it's a good alternative to TM in the summer as a retreat from the Valley. If you are into that.

Fred Becky was introduced to the Needles by Dan McHale in 1969. Interestingly the first route he and Dan climbed was the south face of Hermit Spire, the formation you see north across the Freeman Creek drainage from the Needles trail. This was likely due to the time of year, November. McHale had already climbed Sidewalk Magic on the Magician with Chatsworth climber Joe Brown. The following year Beckey, McHale and Mike Heath teamed up to climb the south face of Warlock where they found a cairn on top!!

If I remember correctly Snowhazed, you did a TR on some alpine rock routes you did in CO. If so, you have had one hell of a summer rock season. My first trip to the Needles, this past summer was much less impressive but I think it is the finest crack climbing I've ever experienced. And I am into that sort of thing.

There is an alternate approach to the Needles from the south, via a road that runs along the west side of the Kern River. It is paved all the way in, and the approach to some of the climbs is shorter than thew other way. It is a fantastic area. Attached are a few images.[photo

It is paved all the way in, and the approach to some of the climbs is shorter than thew other way.

Climbs on Voodoo Dome are better approached from below than above. I've also approached and climbed the South Face of The Warlock from below, and that is big but doable.

I hiked up to the main notch area from the lower road once. It's pretty amazing how much elevation you have to gain after passing the base of Voodoo. After we got up there we staggered down the gully and did P1 of Thin Ice, rapped and spent the rest of the afternoon getting back down to the car. Climbing in the upper Needles formations from the lower road is a tough proposition.

A couple days ago it looked like the closure dates were locked in. Now things are in a state of flux again. Stay tuned, I'll do my best to keep accurate info posted up there.

FWIW my contacts with both USFS and National Monument people have been great, they are fully aware that The Needles is a world class climbing area and are doing their best to limit any closure times and keep us all informed. For our part, if you are at the Needles please stay away from the lookout site and do not climb any routes on Magician until the job is done.

Yeah the gear looked fine- the purple c3 and micro brassies have saved my hide on falls many times- but fiddling that gear in on such a sustained line seems quite the challenge- I would imagine success involves running it between the actual first knuckle locks.

The other thing complicating matters would be the damn rope running right over the crucial foot half-pods- yikes. Just have to get stronger :)

Yeah Romantic is on the list for sure for sure. It's probably within my league to struggle/dog up it- but there are a few routes out there that I would like to save for a few years and go give em the real onsight attempt. Then again- stemming is one of my strong points.....

The Warrior is so much harder (and bigger) than Ankles away that it is really hard to compare them. I've done Ankles more times than I can remember. I've been up the Warrior once and it schooled me well.

On ankles the biggest thing you need is a 1" cam. Forget the brass, take good strong stoppers and some steel nuts. Lots of free biners will serve you better than a lot of draws. At the crux the crack thins down to a seam and you have to go a little ways out with the help of some features on the face. You can see this coming and double up your gear before committing. As far as pro is concerned P1 is the more serious part. Double ropes really help on that first pitch.

I think a really good progression would be to do Atlantis, Don Juan, Ankles, Duty Now For the Future, & Davy Jones Locker. Some of the other mega classics like Liquid Sky really need new bolts. They would be there now but for the lookout fire last summer...