I've ordered nearly everything I need to complete this build. But I want to make my control box more modular.

I'd like to use a computer power cord to hook up the box to the wall. Seems easy enough.
And then, I'd like to plug my element and pump into the box as well.
If I'm not mistaken, my temp probe has an inline disconnect that I can attach/detach from the box.

Does any of this make sense? I'm going to see how far I can get into the wiring process, supplies are in the mail, I'm going to have a friend confirm my results before powering on. I'd just like to get some great help from you folks!

I'm open to suggestions or changes too!

Thanks.

*Edit, I guess the computer cord "inlet" i'm thinking of would be properly called a receptacle? Plug, Connector, Receptacle.

I agree a pc power cord won't work for this. What you need is the twist lock type connectors or there are other type disconnects rated for these amps. And yes your temp probe will have a disconnect built in if you got the deluxe cable from auber.

I'm only running about 18A total (element is 2000W at 120V = 16.6A, and pump is 1.4A)

I'm using the original plan of only 1 element. So I need to use 12AWG wire. As long as my plugs and receptacles are rated at 20A they'll be good to use. I DO like the idea of using the twist-lock connectors, but I'm concerned they won't fit in the case. I'm sure I can make an adjustment in the layout other than copying the OP's method.

Would someone mind explaining how the terminal block/bus works? A question was brought up in this thread, but didn't really answer my question completely.

I'd wire all neutral lines to? and then connect that to the neutral line that runs to the wall? same for ground and hot? Sorry my electrical knowledge is lacking.

I'm only running about 18A total (element is 2000W at 120V = 16.6A, and pump is 1.4A)

I'm using the original plan of only 1 element. So I need to use 12AWG wire. As long as my plugs and receptacles are rated at 20A they'll be good to use. I DO like the idea of using the twist-lock connectors, but I'm concerned they won't fit in the case. I'm sure I can make an adjustment in the layout other than copying the OP's method.

Would someone mind explaining how the terminal block/bus works? A question was brought up in this thread, but didn't really answer my question completely.

I'd wire all neutral lines to? and then connect that to the neutral line that runs to the wall? same for ground and hot? Sorry my electrical knowledge is lacking.

That's correct I used 12g wire as well. I've never seen a 12g computer cord, but sounds like you are already aware of the size you need.

You are correct, if your going to use the the auber project box that I did, twist lock connections will definitely not fit. I had originally planned to use some sort of disconnect for the wires but when I started fitting things together I realized there was no room. If your using the auber box show us what you come up with! I went the easy route and didn't really try to come up with something.

You are correct about the bus strip too. The strip I used has two separate busses. I used one for hot and one for neutral. Your hot and neutral from the wall will get connected on their own bus, therefore distributing current to the other wires you connect to the bus. It's makes for an easier neater install. I didn't have a bus for the ground wires, there are fewer of them and I just wire nutted them together. Make sure you ground your box and kettle! Hope this makes sense, I'm not an electrician either!

I have seen people using the switchcraft type connectors for element power. There is some argument as to whether they are up to NEC code but they can handle the voltage and current requirements for this application and are a smaller form factor. If you are using 120v @ 20 amp, then a standard single (or double) 20 amp AC outlet will work.

For power input power, just make the cord permanent to save the cost and space on your panel.

So for those of us who are electrically challenged and/or perhaps hoping to save upfront cost, are the pump switch, PID switch and element switch all necessary? Also the E-stop and flash buzzer, although I can see the desire for an E-stop?

I'm wondering, is there some way to just plug in the control box which powers on the PID, set the PID which powers on and off the element, and then plug in the pump separately to turn it on? I guess I'm starting to think about this and want the easiest way to set up a recirculating eBIAB system. Easy in the sense that it is simple to buy, put together and use.

Tell me I don't know what I'm talking about if appropriate, because really.... I don't know what I'm talking about...

So for those of us who are electrically challenged and/or perhaps hoping to save upfront cost, are the pump switch, PID switch and element switch all necessary? Also the E-stop and flash buzzer, although I can see the desire for an E-stop?

I'm wondering, is there some way to just plug in the control box which powers on the PID, set the PID which powers on and off the element, and then plug in the pump separately to turn it on? I guess I'm starting to think about this and want the easiest way to set up a recirculating eBIAB system. Easy in the sense that it is simple to buy, put together and use.

Tell me I don't know what I'm talking about if appropriate, because really.... I don't know what I'm talking about...

That's pretty much how my larger setup is. Basic pot control with nothing fancy. It does the job

So is there a reason you guys are putting the inlet for the recirculated mash through the lid rather than at the top on the side? I feel like I would rather have it there, but I'd like to hear if there is a reason not to. I think the whirlpool effect of having it on the side could bring your efficiency up even more.