Turban Ornament

JLY 1440

Turban Ornament

JLY 1440

South India, possibly Arcot

19th century

gold, set with diamonds, rubies and emeralds in gold kundan, with pendant green glass drop

13.6 x 4.8cm (sarpech); 6.4 x 9cm (sarpatti); 10.6cm (length, pin)

The ornament is in three pieces, a sarpech, a sarpatti and a pin. The sarpech follows the conventional form of an openwork plume surmounting a rosette, while the form of the plume, which curves to the left, is characteristic of the late 18th century. At its tip is a stylized motif set with diamonds, rubies and emeralds, which can be read as a head of a lion-monster, particularly on the reverse, which has lightly engraved lines suggesting an eye, ear and snout. The reverse is otherwise undecorated but has been lightly engraved below with a three-character owner’s mark. A vertical sleeve and three gold straps have been soldered to the reverse of the rosette.

The sarpatti is lenticular in form with a central rosette. The tips have projecting polyhedral loops for attachment. The reverse is undecorated.

The pin is divided into two parts by a boss set with a band of cabochon rubies. The upper part has an anticlockwise screw thread and the lower is a slightly tapering rod terminating in a bud-like finial.