THE MINIMALIST; Taking the Fear Out of Polenta

By MARK BITTMAN

Published: February 17, 2010

Polenta is such a natural base for so many savory foods -- more flavorful than either pasta or mashed potatoes, but somehow just as forgiving -- that it's hard to pick a favorite topping. Having said that, I know what mine is: sausage. The fatty succulence of a banger combined with the lean graininess of the cornmeal is somehow perfect.

Many of the polenta toppings I love are essentially sauces, like a beefy stew, a rag? a mushroom fricassee. The truly wonderful thing about sausage is that, simply pan-grilled, it makes its own sauce. So the combination of sausage and polenta practically boils down to only one challenge: making the polenta.

Polenta, as we know, suffers from the misguided belief that it's a hassle to make. Experts say you have to ''rain in the grain'' -- adding the cornmeal to a large pot of water while constantly stirring to avoid lumps. And purists can be fussy about what type of cornmeal to use. These notions serve to intimidate the novice or average cook.

Let's set the record straight: it takes a while to make polenta, and you do have to pay attention. But its high-maintenance reputation is highly overstated. The key is starting out with a slurry, a slush-like mixture of cornmeal and water that you whisk together before cooking. You then put the slurry over not-too-high heat, bring it to a boil, reduce it to a simmer and gradually add more water as needed to keep the mixture smooth and loose. Meanwhile, you cook the sausage. A faster, more satisfying combination I can't imagine.

1. Put oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, add sausages and cook, turning occasionally, until well browned on all sides and cooked through, about 20 minutes. Set aside.

2. Meanwhile, put cornmeal in a medium saucepan along with 1 cup water and whisk well to make a slurry; continue whisking mixture to eliminate any lumps. Put pan over medium-high heat, sprinkle with salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and continue to cook, whisking frequently and adding water as needed to keep mixture loose and free of lumps, between 3 and 4 more cups. If mixture becomes too thick, simply add a bit more water; consistency should be similar to sour cream's.

3. Polenta will be done in 15 to 30 minutes, depending on grind. Add cheese and butter. Taste and add salt, if necessary, and lots of pepper; serve topped with sausages.