I took a ride on the internet, looking for practical info on these, and found (although not an exhaustive conclusion), that the general consensus from the various 'comparos' performed among competitive caps, seems to favor them.

Jupiter caps seem to achieve a good balance between quality and cost, with high musicality emphasis and less resolution extremes, ideal for longer listening periods. There's just a slight character on the sound that betrays the presumed pristine neutrality of the top (very expensive) caps out there, but this tradeoff, I suppose, helps avoid the cold, ultra-transparent, analytical sound of pure teflon-based caps (i.e., TF VCaps).

Again, this is all conditions-dependent as well as subjective, taste-driven appraisal. In general, though, the conclusions seem to indicate the ideal compromise between quality and cost. Let's face it, beyond a certain cost threshold, it would not make sense investing further for the really extreme results obtained from the big players (Duelund, VCap and top of the line Mundorfs), considering the amp's base price.

I guess if one has an already brightish system, too analytical maybe or showing somewhat uncomfortable excess (tiring) details, the Jupiter would be ideal. On the other hand, in my case, as I'm experiencing a somewhat warmish sound with the stock set-up, and although I may be able to correct this through some tube-rolling, I feel I may need something more Teflon-oriented.

Unfortunately, the latter proposition is much more expensive and definitely not as cost-effective, and may end up being too much of a good thing (which I may not be able to afford, either). The Jupiter caps are reported by testers as very transparent also, just not to the levels presented by the more expensive stuff.

I'm sure Mr. Deckert already sorted all this out and his choice of the Jupiter caps is the optimal one for the Mini Torii. Can someone tell me what are the stock caps in the Mini Torii, Ver. I? Thanks!

Mine came stock with 6N1P-Ev as drivers. This Mini can take also 6922, 12AU7, 12AT7 and its varieties. The 12AX7, I think is too much gain for the Mini, but who knows.

I think after the tube-rolling and vibration control basics to apeace the warmish tone, the next move ought to be the caps replacement. Only after that I'm going to really enjoy the potential improvement subtleties of an eventual (and necessary) upgrade in DAC.

My Mini-based system is a keeper, and I intend to develop it further, gradually, as I learn more and evolve with it.

That's strange because I have never seen it published that they added 6N1P or 6922 tubes as acceptable input choices. You need to try a 12AU7 or 12AT7 in there and stop lusting after exotic capacitors.

Re the 6N1P-Ev, I believe it's a matter of economics. Russian tubes like those are very good and quite cheap. At least, that's my explanation for the stock ones I received with the Mini.

These may also convey slightly less gains, which in the Mini is a big deal. I for one never had an issue with clipping due to over-reacting volume pots, and I can go to 2 O'Clock without issues. The original design set was supposed to clip by mid-point in that dial.

I know, I discussed this with David in another thread, I've never known an amp that could use both the 6N1P and 12Axx series of tubes and sound right. And I didn't know the MT could, it's not in the literature.

Given the reiterated surprise/suspicion replies caused by my alleged 6N1P-Ev driver tube in the Mini, this time I took them out and checked for labels. The reason I said these were 6N1P-Ev is because both original boxes have that description/name written on them.

Instead, the now just semi-legible printing on those tubes say 'USA 5963' (in white letters), and something in gold letters that ends with 'electron tube' and there are three golden bigger letters before that, which may be BCI or BCT or RCT or RCI. I can't tell, as these are really vanishing.

From vacuumtubes.com, 12AU7/ECC82 List:

5963

'This tube makes a decent substitute for the 12AU7 as the characteristics are almost the same. The 5963 has a slightly lower plate voltage rating compared to regular 12AU7. The 5963 has a max plate voltage of 250V while 12AU7 has a max of 330V. This tube has a specially designed cathode which can withstand long periods of time in cut-off without hurting the tube.'

I'm not sure what the 'cut-off' term means in this context, can someone please explain?

So, my apologies. I just assumed all this time that what the box said was the actual name of those tubes (I'm a newbie, remember?).

Okay, that makes sense, I just couldn't picture the 6N1Ps working in that amp. And I personally don't consider them a "warm tube," they vary and are available in models from several factories and can be "tight" and "relaxed."

The 5963 is a computer tube and there are many variants. Like all tubes, it will or won't float your boat. My amp came with JJ 12AU7's and they were immediately replaced. I had other 12AU7's to use but prefer 12AT7's in the Mini.