Son in Law, Melbourne

Author: Michael Harden

12:00AM, Oct 23, 2015

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats
around the country right now: Son in Law, Melbourne.

With its multi-pastel colour scheme, themed cocktails (a spicy
Bloody Mary with Sriracha sauce, a vodka and coconut Samui Slushie,
a Mae Khong Sour), and Thai-accented tacos, sliders and fried
chicken, it'll come as no shock to learn that Son in Law bills
itself as a "Modern Thai" restaurant. That it's also in Collingwood
might lead some to presume all its moves come direct from the
hipster playbook, but the place is too good natured and relaxed to
be tarred with such a cynical brush. Plus it's cute. Another plus
is that the food is more than cute, displaying some balance and
attractive freshness, even if its relationship with the hot and
sour can be a little polite. A green papaya salad, for example, is
given a three-chilli rating on the menu but the chilli heat
registers as a smoulder rather than a burn. The rest of the salad -
slippery, crunchy, refreshing - ticks all the boxes. Seared
scallops with green apple and lotus root are also good, as are
deep-fried barra fillets served with chilli, mint, coriander and
roasted rice, and a simple but very effective dish of stir-fried
gai lan with chilli and oyster sauce. If you're after the hipster
side of things, your best bet is the buns - very good Thai fish
cakes stuffed into brioche with peanuts, Kewpie mayo and
caramelised vinegar. Purists may not find what they're after at Son
in Law, but those looking for well-priced, well-cooked food, a cute
room and a good time will be chuffed.