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Redd

The white walls, wood floor and pitched wood roof has a certain starkness, but the modern interior is a natural fit to Richard Reddington's clean, focused menu. The selections can be both rustic, such as a roasted chicken on white beans with Meyer lemon, or elegant, as in the veal loin with winter squash, wild mushrooms and sweetbreads, yet there are no superfluous adornments. The service is smooth and the wine list is perfectly tailored to the menu. There's also a separate bar menu with pizza, chicken wings, tuna tartare and pot stickers. In warm weather the outdoor patio is the place to be.

The noise has been cranked down in the dining room but the wattage has increased in the kitchen at Redd in Yountville. More than $60,000 later the noise level that once was a bomb, now barely musters a manageable three bell rating. For his part, chef/owner Richard Reddington is cooking better than ever. The five course $75 tasting menu, in fact, is one of the best values in the Napa Valley considering the quality and surroundings. -- Michael Bauer