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Hi got this from a viewer of the show Robert Waddell and thought it would be good to share here as well. I have tried a lot of these adjustments myself with a lot of success. I also produced a video that goes over the many (I counted 37) adjustments to get things to feel right. In the video, I only tweaked about ten though..lol.. Felt really good to me though ! Hope this helps !

Edit: Here's my video too..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlOdRTB4njY

PROJECT CARS

In Game (Global) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On

Tire Force – the percentage of tire-related forces used to influence FFB calculations.

Wheel Position Smoothing – the rate of change of an object and the axis about which the object is rotating.

Linkage Scale – simulates that the wheel is driven by a non-rigid linkage, namely the driver's arms, as well as play in mass in the linkage itself. Stiffness and damping of that linkage can be controlled here.

Relative Adjust – represents torque to the wheel based on the change in torque over time rather than being absolute torque.

Relative Adjust Bleed – a time value for bleeding absolute torque back in whereas Relative Adjust Clamp is the value around which this effect operates. 1.0 is a good starting point.

Scoops – decreases low forces more and high forces less, thereby increasing the slope of force where some devices reduce the slope of force.

Scoop Knee – the force level where the force changes from shallow to steep.

Scoop Reduction – refers to the input reduction below the knee. Above the knee the force slope is increased such that, at 1.0 input force, the output force is 1.0.

Soft Clipping – compresses all force within range of the wheel, although the stronger the force, the more it is squeezed into the higher force range. The Half Input setting is the signal that will become 0.5 as an output signal with 0.0 turning it off.

Full Output – setting that determines the expected maximum force that will hit the soft clipper, and rescales such that that force outputs at 1.0. This means force above this setting will again clip.

Per Car (in the garage for each car) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On

General FFB strength

Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore.

Tyre Force

This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars.

The car-specific settings

These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors).

Spindle Master Scale: this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak.

Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet.

Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.

Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.

Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip.

So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak).

___________________________

Notes:

4/16/15

The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.

Or: UPDATE

actually I just reversed the games ffb and the TM profiler,. so 100 in TM and 70 in game.. and theres no difference. feels as good as above.

After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.

Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.

Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):

Fx = 48

Fy = 44

Fz = 54

Mz = 100

Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.

Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweak parameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.

EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.

FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.

5/6/15

1) I recommend setting the ingame FFB strength setting to 100 (very very important!). Then instead set the FFB strength in the Thrustmaster CONTROL PANEL between 60 - 75, depending on how much of a workout you want.

2) Also make sure to experiment with the car setup FFB settings that you find in the garage/edit screen of each car. The most important setting there is called Spindle Arm Angle and can ONLY be found when you are not on the track/in the actual gameplay part but rather in the main menu (I have no idea why they didn't include it in the in-game garage/setup screen). The spindle arm angle is set a bit weird on many cars. For instance the Ginetta G40 has it default to 15 I think but it works much better when set to 21.

I also usually tweak the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings to something like this:

Fx = 80

Fy = 50 to 70 range

Fz = 60 to 70 range

Mz = 100 to 110 range

Then also set the Spindle arm multiplier (first setting on this screen) to something higher than the default 26. I usually end up at around 32 to 40, depending on how much down force the car produces (more down force = stronger FFB)

5/7/15

By the way, which car are you driving? I keep mentioning this but I'll say it again: one of the most important FFB settings is Spindle Arm Angle and it can be found in the car setup screen (but NOT from the on-track car setup screen!!). It's set separately for each and every car.

Example: Ginetta G40 feels extremely stiff and hard centered on my TX 458 with it's default settings. So I made these changes (note, these are from memory! I have yet to drive the release version of Project CARS.. stuck with too much work still ):

Spindle Master Scale = 36

Fx = 100

Fy = 60

Fz = 60

Mz = 110

Spindle Arm Angle (the last parameter in the FFB tab in the car setup) = 21 (instead of the default 15).

Please experiment with the spindle arm angle as it has such a dramatic impact on absolutely everything. Many cars I feel do not have it set optimally yet.

bmanic @ www.racedepartment.com

5/7/15

guys its easy....

I have a t300 GTE.

Ive set FFB in Thrustmaster panel to 100 (as I do all my sims)

I also set in Wheel Pcars menu

FFB 100

Dampening 15

Tyre Force 100

Then in each car specific FFB I set the master lower. For instance the Formula a car (f1) has the most grip so it produces the most FFB, ive lowered that Master gain to 10, and it feel lovely.

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Hey, this is Robert, the guy who sent the tips for TM TX wheel setups. I just wanted to say that much of the knowledge and also the notes (verbatum) came from PC Investors in pCARS over at racedepartment.com, where I am a member.

Specifically, a member named "bmanic" was the main contributor to the tips and notes sections. Others did too, and there are many threads on the site which will help ALL wheel users, since it's a very large site (300,000 or so on PC/XBO/PS4). Just wanted to give due credit.

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Hmmm. Okay, that is really interesting. Their "Custom Wheel" preset which you have to use with the Accuforce has all the stuff like scoop and relative gain turned off.

This explains why I was getting such bad FFB, I have switched all of them on to the normal defaults and it feels much better.

I found that most of the settings in your video were a bit weak for the accuforce, increase the spindle strength and some of the other settings really helped. I am getting pretty good FFB now. I am tuned it so it is really lively on the Accuforce.

I was using the Caterham Superlight R500 for my test car and you could feel the slides well.

The FFB does feel slow to me. You wouldn't notice it on a non-direct drive wheel but it does feel a lot slower to react than something like iRacing, AC or game stock car. Typically I have found that the SimXperience FFB is the quickest reacting which is why I usually use it. The telemetry coming out of Project CARS is a bit lacking though so I will stick with game FFB.

I think with some more tweaking I can get it feeling better but I don't think there is any thing I can do about the speed that the FFB reacts at.

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Okay, have spent the last 2 hours with AC, PC and my T500 at Spa in a BMW Z4 gt3

I don't have it perfect yet but I have made a ton of progress on getting that AC feel.

Some of my settings are a bit different than the ones Darin has in his video and many people may not care for the feel but to me it's a great leap in as far as the immersion goes (I like a heavier wheel and feedback, even if it isn't totally accurate)

Okay, to start my T500 is set at the typical TM Panel settings of 60% 100/100/0/0 let game center. I wanted to keep this as it is what it is set at for all my other games.

In PCars control panel

Tire force 100

Per Wheel Movement 0.0

Per Wheel Movement squared 0.0

Wheel Position Smoothing 0.04

Deadzone removal range .05

Deadzone removal falloff .01

Linkage Scale 0.0

Linkage Stiffness 1.0

Linkage Damping 1.0

Relative Adjust Gain .98

Relative adjust Bleed .10

Relative adj clamp .96

Scoop Knee .70

Scoop Reduction .25

Soft Clipping (Half Input) 0.0

Soft Clipping (Full Output) 0.0

Under Vehicle Tuning Setup > Force Feedback > Spindle

Master Scale 10 (this is low and I still get a ton of FFB)

Fx Scale 54

Fy Scale 54

Fz Scale 60

Mz Scale 90.01 (this is almost like spring center, it will determine how much resistance you get turning the front wheels)

All Smoothing set at 0.0

Arm Angle 1200

Under Vehicle Tuning Setup > Force Feedback > Body & SOP

Body Scale 0.01

Body Longitudinal Scale 0.01

Body Stiffness 100

Body Damping 100

Below is the biggy if you like kurb effects and feeling the bumps in the road

SoP Scale 100

SoP Lateral Scale 70

SoP Differential Scale 100

SoP Damping 0.0

Disclaimer: Try these at your own risk, what I like in FFB may be nothing like what you like. I will say though if you thought the FFB before was not aggressive enough or heavy enough, you might like these settings. I also only tried these with one car at one track. These settings most likely will need even more tweaking with different vehicles, but that is part of the appeal of this title, it allows you to do just that.

Even if they are not to your liking they might get you pointed in a direction that does work for you, this is a game that is going to make you crawl under the hood so to speak if you want to get the most out of it.

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Okay, have spent the last 2 hours with AC, PC and my T500 at Spa in a BMW Z4 gt3

I don't have it perfect yet but I have made a ton of progress on getting that AC feel.

Some of my settings are a bit different than the ones Darin has in his video and many people may not care for the feel but to me it's a great leap in as far as the immersion goes (I like a heavier wheel and feedback, even if it isn't totally accurate)

Okay, to start my T500 is set at the typical TM Panel settings of 60% 100/100/0/0 let game center. I wanted to keep this as it is what it is set at for all my other games.

In PCars control panel

Tire force 100

Per Wheel Movement 0.0

Per Wheel Movement squared 0.0

Wheel Position Smoothing 0.04

Deadzone removal range .05

Deadzone removal falloff .01

Linkage Scale 0.0

Linkage Stiffness 1.0

Linkage Damping 1.0

Relative Adjust Gain .98

Relative adjust Bleed .10

Relative adj clamp .96

Scoop Knee .70

Scoop Reduction .25

Soft Clipping (Half Input) 0.0

Soft Clipping (Full Output) 0.0

Under Vehicle Tuning Setup > Force Feedback > Spindle

Master Scale 10 (this is low and I still get a ton of FFB)

Fx Scale 54

Fy Scale 54

Fz Scale 60

Mz Scale 90.01 (this is almost like spring center, it will determine how much resistance you get turning the front wheels)

All Smoothing set at 0.0

Arm Angle 1200

Under Vehicle Tuning Setup > Force Feedback > Body & SOP

Body Scale 0.01

Body Longitudinal Scale 0.01

Body Stiffness 100

Body Damping 100

Below is the biggy if you like kurb effects and feeling the bumps in the road

SoP Scale 100

SoP Lateral Scale 70

SoP Differential Scale 100

SoP Damping 0.0

Disclaimer: Try these at your own risk, what I like in FFB may be nothing like what you like. I will say though if you thought the FFB before was not aggressive enough or heavy enough, you might like these settings. I also only tried these with one car at one track. These settings most likely will need even more tweaking with different vehicles, but that is part of the appeal of this title, it allows you to do just that.

Even if they are not to your liking they might get you pointed in a direction that does work for you, this is a game that is going to make you crawl under the hood so to speak if you want to get the most out of it.

Thanks for looking and if it is a help, let me know.

Thanks for the work,dude! I believe these settings can be done in PS4,too. If there we asume FFB is a bit weaker ,so just will need to adapt them.But the proportions must be the same. Right?

The thing with this guys files is all cars are already set up in the folder so you don't have to adjust each car, it ignores the in game per car FFB settings. That's a double edged sword though since it also means you no longer have the option to fine tune the FFB on each car.

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The files at least give a baseline for settings. If you find you like them, you can always open them up in notepad and put those values in yourself.. then tweak it from there. I'm personally just going to use the files for a while... have spent many hours just fiddling with ffb, and i'd kinda just like to enjoy the game now. These files are a slight improvement on what i had, so i might just leave it for now. Time to race!

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Thanks Robert Waddell for posting your notes I run the Fanatec CSR and just in Kart career for now but it really has made a hugh improvment. I wasn't sure what you meant about the Real Gain parameter though I guess you meant relative gain and I only see the ability to have 1 value entered not 3. Also the Spindle arm has two adjustments and the one I think you meant is locked out for me. Great stuff all the same.

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If you are using the Tweaker files they override the in car ffb settings so anything you change in there will not have any effect.

My apologies, no tweek files and using PC. It seems like i only have one go at it when i first enter the setup menu then I make another adjustment and doesn't save anymore. Is it because I'm in the middle of a race meeting? I can only adjust and save in my garage menu and save for all tracks

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