August 28, 2009

A recent viewing of the 2005 movie “Capote” brought back memories of an odd chapter in Dick Avedon’s career. It was in April 1960 that Dick traveled alone to Garden City, Kansas, for a meeting with author Truman Capote (1924-1984), who was there researching material for a fact-based novel about one of the most savage multiple murders in American history. The final result, published in serial form in The New Yorker magazine in September 1965 and as a book in January 1966, was entitled In Cold Blood.

Dick’s connection with Truman Capote went back to their early 1959 collaboration on Observations, a handsome book of photography and prose. I was away in the Army at that time, but upon returning to civilian life at the end of the year was given an autographed copy by Dick as we discussed the possibility of my working for him once again, which I did.

Avedon’s role in this strange 1960 undertaking, a self-imposed assignment, was to do portraits of everyone involved, from the police to the murderers themselves, and to capture the atmosphere of the crime scene. This he did without assistance using just his Rolleiflex TLR and 35mm Pentax cameras. The image to the right is Avedon's portrait of one of the murderers, Richard Hickock, taken in the Kansas jail on April 15, 1960.

How would these strange New Yorkers be received in small town Kansas? Well, Capote was there some four months earlier with fellow writer Harper Lee so the locals were already used to his eccentricities and had come to accept him. Avedon by contrast was so “normal” that he could almost have passed off as a Kansan himself.

Upon Dick's return to New York I developed the film and made prints from the negatives. Those images of the two murderers have haunted me ever since. The story goes like this: Two drifters meet in jail and are soon released on probation; they plan to rob an isolated Kansas farmhouse of a rumored fortune in cash, liquidating the entire family to make sure there are no witnesses. The brutal slaughter of the Clutter family was carried out on November 15, 1959. Ironically, there was little money, and the murderers left almost empty handed. In January of 1960 they were apprehended in Las Vegas and brought back to Kansas for trial.

Capote’s interest begins after reading a small article about the crime in the back pages of the New York Times in November 1959. At first he planned only a short story but after getting to know the jailed murderers decides on a full major work. An agreement with his publisher is reached by April 1960, when he asks his friend Avedon to meet him in Kansas to make a photographic record of the events.

Dick’s involvement only lasted a few days, but Truman lingered on in hopes of getting critical anecdotal information from the accused for his book. The trial was soon held, resulting in a guilty verdict and a sentence of death by hanging. Capote, by now strangely attracted to one of the murderers, Perry Smith (police mug shot, right), funds their appeals — a process that drags on for five years. Finally, all appeals exhausted, on April 14, 1965 both are hanged, with Capote as an official witness at the gallows.

At last, Capote could finish his book.

Quickly completed, the book gave birth to a new style of literature in which the lines between fact and fabrication are blurred. In Cold Blood is neither reportage nor fiction, but a hybrid in which truth is embellished for dramatic effect.

During the interim Capote, who had little or no knowledge of photography, purchased a Rolleiflex camera identical to the ones Dick used and asked him to teach him to use it. This task was given to me, and I spent a few sessions instructing the author.

By September of 1965 the book had been edited and typeset. Capote dropped off the complete set of galley proofs at Avedon’s studio and left them there overnight. Fascinated, I stayed nearly all night reading the text.

In Cold Blood was serialized in The New Yorker magazine beginning on September 25th, printed as a book later that year, and released in early January 1966. It soon became a best seller and has gone through numerous editions ever since. On January 7, 1966, LIFE magazine published a major article entitled “Horror Spawns a Masterpiece,” illustrated with Avedon’s photos from that trip to Kansas in April 1960. Some of these same photos later appeared in various museum exhibitions, and in Avedon’s 1994 book Evidence.

The movie version of In Cold Blood opened in 1967 to critical acclaim, but it could not halt Capote’s downward spiral into drug addiction and alcoholism brought on primarily by the emotional stresses of the whole affair. He died in 1984.

In 2003 Avedon helped coach actor Philip Seymour Hoffman in his portrayal of Truman Capote in the movie Capote, mostly in getting the gestures and voice right. Unfortunately, Dick never saw that film as he died in 2004, months before it was completed.

In this film the brief role of Dick Avedon (screen shot, above) was marred by a serious error involving the camera Dick supposedly used, a Hasselblad (screen shot, right). Dick never used a Hasselblad until much later in his career. His portraits of the murderers and others involved were all taken with a Rolleiflex 2.8E. Also, the Hasselblad in the film lacks a sunshade, a big no-no, and it was a model not even available at that time. His method of softly manipulating the subjects does seem genuine, however.

The following year, 2006, Infamous, another film on the same subject as Capote and covering pretty much the same story, was released. Infamous is somewhat more violent and more explicit in the sexual attraction Truman Capote felt for the condemned murderer Perry. Although the 2006 film does not even mention Avedon, it does have actors playing the roles of some of Dick’s closest friends.

Photography's Golden Age ended long ago but remains very much alive in my memory. From 1952 through 1965 I was an assistant to Avedon during his most creative period. Do I ever have the stories to tell! Now, near the end of 2015, is the time to reveal all, while I'm still alive and kicking. Tales of personalities, motivations, intrigues, and even the fine details of how it was done.

What I need to make this project a reality is a co-conspirator to aid in getting the whole, true, uncensored story published -- either as a book, an e-book, or even a documentary.

August 26, 2009

For over two thousand years the fabled White Cliffs of Dover have marked the gateway to England. Iron Age man settled these shores, and so did the Romans, who built their port of Dubris here in AD 43. Strategically, Dover is of paramount importance to Britain, being the closest point to the Continent and only 22 miles from France. A great fortress inevitably rose on this site, defending the island nation right down to modern times. Today, the massive 12th-century castle is a major tourist attraction that’s well worth the daytrip itself, while the harbor it overlooks is the busiest passenger port in England.

GETTING THERE:

Trains to Dover's Priory Station operated by Southeastern leave at least hourly from Victoria station in London, with a journey time of nearly two hours. Be sure to board the correct car as some trains split en route. There is also slower service from London's Charing Cross station, requiring a change enroute. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car, Dover is 74 miles (118 km) southeast of London by way of either the A2 and M2 highways, or the A20 and M20 highways.

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is essential for this largely outdoor trip, especially for the maritime views for which you might want to bring along binoculars. The Castle is open every day except on Tuesdays and Wednesdays from November through January, and on Christmas Day, Boxing Day, and New Year's, but the Roman Painted House is closed in winter and on Mondays.

The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01304) 205-108, W: whitecliffscountry.org.uk, is in the Old Town Gaol on Biggin Street, in the town center. Dover is in the county of Kent, and has a population of about 34,000.

From Priory Station (1) you can either take a bus direct to the castle or follow the map into town. Here, at the Bus Station (2), you can get a ride up to the castle, perched dramatically atop a nearby hill. It is also possible to get there by taxi or car, or even on foot if you don't mind the stiff climb.

Dover Castle is by far the finest and most fascinating military structure in England. While essentially of Norman construction, parts of it date from Saxon and even Roman times. Brutally strong, its 20-foot-thick walls have withstood sieges during its entire history. Begin your visit with the mighty Keep (3), surrounded by a defensive curtain wall. Built in 1180 by Henry II to replace earlier structures, the keep has been continually modified down through the centuries. You can easily spend hours exploring the many rooms and passageways, and examining the exhibitions displayed there — including re-creations of the Siege of 1216 and preparations for the arrival of Henry VIII and the Tudor Court. Be sure to get up to the roof, from which there is a fabulous *view extending all the way to France in clear weather. A visit to the Underground Works beneath the castle is well worth the effort, although it involves some steep climbs. The entry to this tunnel system is just outside the keep, and an audio guided tour is available.

The existence of a maze of secret tunnels used in World War II was declassified in 1986, and parts of the subterranean labyrinth later opened to visitors. Known as the *Secret Wartime Tunnels, the complex is shown on tours that include control rooms, a hospital, and an opening in the side of the White Cliffs from which Winston Churchill watched the Battle of Britain — made all the more realistic with sounds, smells, and audiovisuals.

More of the castle's past can be seen by strolling over to the Pharos (4) (photo, right), a Roman lighthouse erected in the 2nd century AD to guide the Imperial Navy into port. This is the tallest surviving Roman structure in Britain. Directly adjacent to it stands the Saxon Church of St. Mary de Castro, which was heavily restored during the 19th century. Although its exact age is unknown, parts of it may date from as far back as the 7th century. From here you might want to amble around the outer ramparts before leaving the precincts. Don't miss Queen Elizabeth's Pocket Pistol, a 24-foot-long cannon presented to Henry VIII.

Return to the town by bus or, since it is downhill, on foot. Just follow the path opposite the bus stop, which leads through Victoria Park. Laureston Place and Castle Hill Road will bring you to Castle Street, at the end of which is the Market Square, built over the site of the ancient Roman harbor. From there take King and Bench streets to Marine Parade.

There are splendid views of the harbor from Marine Parade (5), but for an even better look you should walk out on the Prince of Wales Pier (6), which offers wonderful panoramas of the famous White Cliffs. From here you can watch the comings and goings of the speedy SeaCats and leisurely ferries. No quick trip through the Channel Tunnel will ever match the experience of a genuine sea voyage to the Continent.

Dover’s Roman history is explored in an archaeological gallery on the ground floor, which also includes finds from an Anglo-Saxon cemetery. Upstairs, there are special exhibitions and artifacts of local history from 1066 to the present day. The center of attraction, though, is the world’s oldest seagoing boat, built some 3,550 years ago and discovered in a Dover dig in 1992. Along with this is a re-created full-scale Bronze Age home, many treasures from that time, and interactive computers that allow you to build your own boat and see if it survives a Channel crossing.

Nearby, on New Street, is the Roman Painted House (8). Britain's answer to Pompeii, this excavated 2nd-century town house has lovely painted walls and an intact underfloor heating system. T: (01304) 203-279. Open April-Sept. Tues.-Sat. 10-5, also on Sun. from April-Aug., noon-5; and on Bank Holiday Mon. in July-Aug. £.

Now follow Cannon Street and Biggin Street to the Tourist Office (9) in the Old Town Gaol by the historic Town Hall. St. Edmund's Chapel (10) on Priory Road is on the way back to the train station. Dating from the 13th century, it ceased religious services in 1544 and was later used as a forge. In 1968 the tiny wayside chapel was re-consecrated and is thought to be the smallest in England in regular use.

August 23, 2009

I have come to prefer shopping for many items, especially books, CDs and DVDs, online rather than in stores. For me, the service from Amazon.com has been particularly good over the past several years for several reasons:

Customer reviews really help in selecting products, and can usually be relied on if there are, say, five or more. I always check the lowest ratings (1 or 2 stars) first to see what might be wrong with the item, followed by the higher (3, 4, or 5 stars) ones.

Products are described in minute detail.

A full range of similar or competitive products is usually shown.

Links are provided to independent vendors in their Advantage program who may, or may not, offer lower prices or used merchandise. These are rated as to reliability, determined by customer feedback.

Suggestions are made for related items.

There is no pressure to buy.

Delivery is often free if the total order is for $25 or more.

Depending on your location, they often do not collect sales taxes.

On several occasions I have gone to Amazon intent on purchasing a particular item, but changed my mind after reading the reviews. I then selected a similar product that was more satisfactory. This helpful guidance is one of the reasons I love Amazon. The other is price — not always the very cheapest, but usually quite reasonable.

SO, just what Little Adventure am I up to now in 2013? Why, just the most challenging one of them all! CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT.

If you have not already experienced shopping at Amazon, you can see what it's like by clicking on the ITEM'S NAME in the box below, NOT on the Buy button. Doing this will get you full information. I have chosen one of my own books as an example because its Amazon listing is very informative. FULL DISCLOSURE: Clicking on any Amazon links on this blog and then purchasing anything at all before leaving the site puts a few pennies in my pocket, which helps defray the cost of maintaining this blog. Thank you.

August 18, 2009

Heading to Austria? Visiting Innsbruck? Here'a an easy Daytrip high in the Tirol, taken directly from my recent guidebook Daytrips Austria:

Trip 24

Kitzbühel

A Daytrip from Innsbruck

Long regarded as one of the world’s premier winter ski resorts, Kitzbühel makes an excellent destination in the warmer seasons as well. The town itself is quite picturesque with its traces of a thousand-year history, and there are numerous easy walks in the region as well as two mountains – both offering great views – that can be ascended by cable car.

“Kitz,” as it is often called, dates originally from Celtic times although its first recorded mention was around 1180. Once surrounded by a moat, it grew along a ridge between two Alpine streams. The medieval town received its first municipal charter in 1271 and flourished with the development of silver and copper mines, especially in the 16th century. Today it is a fashionable resort catering to an international clientele.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart Innsbruck’s main station several times in the morning for Kitzbühel. Some require a change at Wörgl. Direct trains take about one hour; indirect trains a bit over 1½ hours. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car, Kitzbühel is about 95 km (59 miles) east of Innsbruck. Take the A-12 east to Wörgl, then the B-170 into Kitzbühel.

PRACTICALITIES:

Those coming during the warmer seasons won’t need any special attire other than good walking shoes. The Tourist Information Office is in the old town at Hinterstadt 18, T: (05356) 777, W: kitzbuehel.com.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Tennerhof (Griesenweg 26, 500 meters north of the historic churches) One of the truly great restaurants of Austria, serving contemporary Austrian cuisine. Reservations a must, T: (05356) 631-81, W: tennerhof.at. €€€ and €€€+

Eggerwirt (Gänsbachgasse 12, a block east of the historic churches) Local specialties in an Alpine setting. T: (05356) 624-37, W: eggerwirt-kitzbuehel.at. X: off-season. € and €€

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map. Click on map to enlarge.

Kitzbühel’s Main Train Station(Hauptbahnhof) (1) lies about a half-mile (.8 km) north of the old town. Walk straight ahead on Bahnhofstrasse, cross the stream, and turn left on Josef-Pichl-Strasse, following that around to two historic churches on the right. The Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) (2) dates in part from 1373 and is noted for a massive square tower that seems much too large for the rest of the structure. Its upper floor was added in 1490 and redone in the Baroque style during the 1730s, with latter Rococo additions. Of particular note is the ceiling fresco depicting the Coronation of the Virgin by the local artist Simon-Benedict Faistenberger. Also noteworthy are the ex-votos, the grille, and the 17th-century altar painting of the Virgin done in the manner of Cranach.

Nearly adjoining this is the 15th-century Pfarrkirche St. Andreas (3), a parish church of some distinction. Although redecorated in the Baroque style in 1750, many of the original Gothic features remain in the triple nave. The same artist who added much to the Liebfrauenkirche (above) also contributed some of the ceiling frescoes. His grandfather, Benedict Faistenberger, created the high altar.

You can get a good view of Kitzbühel and the Alps surrounding it from the tops of two nearby mountains, both easily ascended by cable car. The best panorama is from the summit of the *Kitzbühler Horn (5). From an elevation of 6,550 feet (1,996 meters), the *view extends from the Kaisergebirge peaks in the north to the Grossglockner in the south. While up there, you can also visit the Alpine Flower Garden, where some 120 varieties bloom between June and August. T: (05356) 628-57, W: bergbahn-kitzbuehel.at. Cable car operates mid-May through early Oct. and late-Dec. through March, daily 8:30-4, until 5 in summer. Round trip €€€€.

The other easily-ascended mountain top is the Hahnenkamm (6), world-famous for its ski runs. In summer, visitors can take short scenic hikes(photo, above), dine high above the town at Restaurant Hochkitzbühel, and visit a summit museum devoted to cable cars. T: (05356) 628-57, W: bergbahn-kitzbuehel.at. Cable car operates daily late May through Oct. and Dec.-mid-April. 8:30-4, 4:30 in summer. Round trip €€€€.

An easy walk that can be taken from the town is to and around the Schwarzsee (7). This lovely lake lies just over a mile (2 km) northwest of Kitzbühel, reached on foot or by car by taking Franz-Reisch-Strasse (Route B-170) in the direction of Kirchberg. Trail #12 goes around the lake, a nearly level distance of 2 miles (3.2 km).

August 11, 2009

Everyone has heard of the once-a-decade Passion Play of Oberammergau. What many may not realize, however, is that this ancient woodcarvers' village is equally as attractive during the nine out of ten years when its stage is empty. People come here in all seasons to enjoy the mountains, the quaint old houses, and the magnificent palace of King Ludwig II at Linderhof.

Easy to reach, Oberammergau makes an excellent daytrip from Munich. By staying overnight or longer it can also be used as a convenient base for one-day excursions by bus or car to nearby Garmisch-Partenkirchen, the Zugspitze, Füssen, or Mittenwald.

GETTING THERE:

Trains for Garmisch-Partenkirchen leave hourly in the morning from Munich's main station. Take one of these as far as Murnau and there change to the connecting local for Oberammergau. This last segment of the trip is extremely lovely as you slowly climb the mountain. The total journey from Munich takes less than two hours. Service back to Munich operates until mid-evening.

By Car, leave Munich on the A-95 Autobahn in the direction of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Just north of that town, at Oberau, turn right on a local road leading to Oberammergau, which is about 92 km (57 miles) southwest of Munich.

PRACTICALITIES:

A fine day in warm weather will make this trip more enjoyable. Schloss Linderhof is open every day, although its grotto and Moorish pavilion are closed in winter. Anyone going to Oberammergau while the Passion Play is on should expect crowds. The local Tourist Information Office(Verkehrsamt) is in the convention center on Eugen-Papst-Strasse, T: (08822) 923-10, W: oberammergau.de. Oberammergau has a population of about 5,400.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Wolf (Dorfstr. 1, near the Heimatmuseum) Local Bavarian dishes in a traditional setting, with game and fish specialties. T: (08822) 923-30. €€

Alte Post (Dorfstr. 19, near the town center) A Bavarian chalet-style inn with a rustic restaurant. T: (08822) 91-00. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Upon arrival at the Oberammergau train station (1) you should check the posted schedule of buses to Linderhof. These may be boarded here or, more conveniently, near the tourist office (5). Decide which bus you would like to take and how much time can be spent first in Oberammergau, allowing at least two hours to see Linderhof. Those with cars will, of course, be riding there instead.

Follow the map across the Ammer River to the:

PASSION PLAY THEATER(Spielhaus) (2), ^T: (08822) 945-8833. Open in summer and over Christmas holidays, daily 10-5; rest of year occasionally. €.

As the whole world knows by now, this sometimes-controversial play is held once a decade, from May through September, in the years ending in zero. Every day during that period this otherwise peaceful village is invaded by thousands of visitors. Tickets to the event are available only in combination with overnight accommodation, and are usually sold out well in advance.

The play itself, depicting the story of Christ's Passion, lasts about six hours and uses the talents of some two thousand local amateur performers, many of whom have taken a few months off from their erstwhile occupation of woodcarving. It was first performed during the 17th century as a result of a vow taken by surviving villagers after deliverance from the black plague. The theater (photo, above), seating about 4,800 spectators, is a marvel of ingenious design. Besides the Passion Play, the theater is now also used for opera performances during the off-years.

Stroll over to the Heimatmuseum (3) for a look at some wonderful antique Christmas crèches and fine examples of the local woodcarvers' art. You may want to visit this on the way back to the station. T: (08822) 941-36. Open April through early Feb., Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

Turn right at the square and walk down Dorfstrasse. This leads to the magnificent 18th-century Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) (4), well worth a visit for its marvelous rococo interior. Wandering around the nearby streets will reveal several examples of Lüftmalerei (top photo), the "air paintings" with which many of the houses are decorated. A particularly outstanding example of this is the Pilatushaus (5) of 1775, where you can see local crafts as well.

The bus to Linderhof may be boarded on Eugen-Papst-Strasse near the Tourist Office. By car the distance is under ten miles. Leave town via Ettaler Strasse and bear right to Linderhof.

*SCHLOSS LINDERHOF(photo, above)(6), T: (08822) 920-30, W: linderhof.de. Open April-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct.-March, daily 10-4, but without the grotto and Moorish pavilion during that period. Some tours are held in English. A descriptive booklet in English is available. €€.

This is the most satisfying of "mad" Ludwig's creations, and the only one where he actually spent much time. Built between 1870 and 1879, the palace is best understood as a stage set in which a deranged mind could work out its fantasies. An incredible amount of opulence is packed within this relatively small structure.

To see the interior, as well as the grotto and Moorish pavilion, you must join one of the very frequent guided tours that begin in front of the palace.

When the palace tour is finished you should be sure to climb uphill to the Grotto (photo, left), an artificial cave entered by way of a hinged boulder. Here the inside of the Venus mountain from Wagner's Tannhäuser is re-created, complete with lake, waterfall, and a cockle-shell boat in which the king was transported more deeply into his dream world.

Sometimes these illusions took other shapes, as when Ludwig decided to play the role of an Oriental potentate. For this, he erected the Moorish Pavilion on the path that leads back to the palace. Don't miss seeing this — the peacock throne is spectacular.

Finish your tour of Linderhof by strolling through the splendid gardens, perhaps visiting the nearby Hundinghütte, a scene from Wagner’s Die Walküre.

Return to the bus stop and Oberammergau. An additional sight there, if time allows, is a cable car ride up the Laber Mountain for a superb view. The lower station (7) is about one mile from Dorf Platz by way of a path along the creek, just beyond the Wellenberg recreation center.

August 07, 2009

Way back in the late 1960s and early 1970s I got smitten with the movie bug and experimented with the idea of making travel productions for use on cable TV. This never really panned out, and the results have been sitting in a closet ever since. Until now. Two weeks ago, feeling a bit flush, I took one reel of about 250 feet to the local chain drugstore to be scanned and converted to DVD format for viewing on a TV or computer. The total cost was about $50, and well worth the joy of once again reliving a fun trip we made in 1970 to do fashion photos in Jamaica for McCall's Magazine. Here are some still capture frames that are not very sharp, but fun anyway.

The above frames depict fashion designer Giorgio di Sant' Angelo with models Zaki and Pia; the three on a donkey cart being photographed by my partner, Jim Houghton; Jamaican tourist official Marcia Robinson on a donkey; and photographer Jim Houghton.

And here is a very short excerpt from the video. It looks pretty awful, but we had fun that week:

CLICK the left button to start the show. The center slider adjusts volume. For full screen size, as soon as the first image appears, right-click on it, then on Zoom, then on Full Screen. NOTE that the full, 12-minute DVD, when viewed on a TV set, is MUCH sharper than what you see here.