The new gym in Concord is pretty nice, but I had to be that guy during the belay test and threatened to leave if they forced me to belay by grabbing under the device with the top hand. It might work for noobs, but I am much safer belaying the way I am hard wired to belay.

Do you just slid your brake hand up without bringing the other hand below to hold/control the rope?

Keep in mind that the gyms test was only interested in top rope belaying. My brake hand (right) grips the rope with three middle fingers over the top and the thumb and pinky grip from underneath; the pinky being under gives the rope a little stiffy of a loop that makes it easy for the guide hand to grab for a pinch and slide. The brake hand never leaves the rope, and even if someone falls when the strands are parallel there is no more than a couple inches of slide before full braking.

I do this so fast that I don't think the kid could follow exactly what was going on, so he passed me by saying "most people don't know how to do that correctly, but I can see you do." This was all after I told him I had been climbing for 35 years, was a Nationals Level head judge for USA Climbing, had worked for the Yosemite Rescue, and had climbed Half Dome and El Cap before he was born, using a figure eight as a belay device on a swami belt. Apparently the little snot nose climbs 5.13, but he has much to learn.

dude - everyone knows if you climb 5.13 you know way more than anyone else.

The new gym in Concord is pretty nice, but I had to be that guy during the belay test and threatened to leave if they forced me to belay by grabbing under the device with the top hand. It might work for noobs, but I am much safer belaying the way I am hard wired to belay.

Do you just slid your brake hand up without bringing the other hand below to hold/control the rope?

Keep in mind that the gyms test was only interested in top rope belaying. My brake hand (right) grips the rope with three middle fingers over the top and the thumb and pinky grip from underneath; the pinky being under gives the rope a little stiffy of a loop that makes it easy for the guide hand to grab for a pinch and slide. The brake hand never leaves the rope, and even if someone falls when the strands are parallel there is no more than a couple inches of slide before full braking.

I do this so fast that I don't think the kid could follow exactly what was going on, so he passed me by saying "most people don't know how to do that correctly, but I can see you do." This was all after I told him I had been climbing for 35 years, was a Nationals Level head judge for USA Climbing, had worked for the Yosemite Rescue, and had climbed Half Dome and El Cap before he was born, using a figure eight as a belay device on a swami belt. Apparently the little snot nose climbs 5.13, but he has much to learn.

Went to Old Rag Mtn on sunday and got some climbing in. Perfect 50 degree temps on a south facing wall. Brilliant weather compared to the solid week of rain we had before.

My partner started out by trying to onsight an unknown route as a "warm up" that turned out to be a very devious .11b/c. He got pretty pumped so I decided to lead on preplaced gear to avoid that but it didn't work. I got trashed too. Turned out to be a super fun route though and I will go back for the RP. It starts with solid finger and hand jams but the crack gets more and more shallow as it archs left. Finally you get 50% quality grey, purple and blue tcu placements stacked right on top of each other and then run it out to a deadpoint just below the anchors. If you blow it, as I did the first time, you come pretty close to the ground.

Next I red pointed a route that spanked me last time I was on it like 5 years ago. Got it first try.

My partner took his first burn on a route he plans to project. It's an amazing and steep finger crack that goes at .13a Should be fun to watch him work that thing over the next few months.

Also scoped two offwidths that I will have to drag the 5's & 6 down there for on the next trip. Pretty psyched. There aren't many legit offwidths in my area. Also spotted what looks to be an amazingly steep and difficult offwidth roof that I can't find any beta for online. I'm going in for a closer inspection next trip. Only saw it from a distance but it could be in the .12 range. I'm going to have a hard time sleeping tonight just thinking about it...

I didn't know you were still working routes that hard.

elbow is good?

No, not really. It is slowly getting better. I've tried to keep it in the mid .10's and below but I lack discipline.

Well, just like I said in that thread no one has bothered to reply to, might as well go big.

Went to Old Rag Mtn on sunday and got some climbing in. Perfect 50 degree temps on a south facing wall. Brilliant weather compared to the solid week of rain we had before.

My partner started out by trying to onsight an unknown route as a "warm up" that turned out to be a very devious .11b/c. He got pretty pumped so I decided to lead on preplaced gear to avoid that but it didn't work. I got trashed too. Turned out to be a super fun route though and I will go back for the RP. It starts with solid finger and hand jams but the crack gets more and more shallow as it archs left. Finally you get 50% quality grey, purple and blue tcu placements stacked right on top of each other and then run it out to a deadpoint just below the anchors. If you blow it, as I did the first time, you come pretty close to the ground.

Next I red pointed a route that spanked me last time I was on it like 5 years ago. Got it first try.

My partner took his first burn on a route he plans to project. It's an amazing and steep finger crack that goes at .13a Should be fun to watch him work that thing over the next few months.

Also scoped two offwidths that I will have to drag the 5's & 6 down there for on the next trip. Pretty psyched. There aren't many legit offwidths in my area. Also spotted what looks to be an amazingly steep and difficult offwidth roof that I can't find any beta for online. I'm going in for a closer inspection next trip. Only saw it from a distance but it could be in the .12 range. I'm going to have a hard time sleeping tonight just thinking about it...

I didn't know you were still working routes that hard.

elbow is good?

No, not really. It is slowly getting better. I've tried to keep it in the mid .10's and below but I lack discipline.

Well, just like I said in that thread no one has bothered to reply to, might as well go big.

Is there for honest Poverty That hings his head, an' a' that; The coward slave-we pass him by, We dare be poor for a' that! For a' that, an' a' that. Our toils obscure an' a' that, The rank is but the guinea's stamp, The Man's the gowd for a' that.

What though on hamely fare we dine, Wear hoddin grey, an' a that; Gie fools their silks, and knaves their wine; A Man's a Man for a' that: For a' that, and a' that, Their tinsel show, an' a' that; The honest man, tho' e'er sae poor, Is king o' men for a' that.

Then let us pray that come it may, (As come it will for a' that,) That Sense and Worth, o'er a' the earth, Shall bear the gree, an' a' that. For a' that, an' a' that, It's coming yet for a' that, That Man to Man, the world o'er, Shall brothers be for a' that.

Is there for honest Poverty That hings his head, an' a' that; The coward slave-we pass him by, We dare be poor for a' that! For a' that, an' a' that. Our toils obscure an' a' that, The rank is but the guinea's stamp, The Man's the gowd for a' that.

What though on hamely fare we dine, Wear hoddin grey, an' a that; Gie fools their silks, and knaves their wine; A Man's a Man for a' that: For a' that, and a' that, Their tinsel show, an' a' that; The honest man, tho' e'er sae poor, Is king o' men for a' that.

Then let us pray that come it may, (As come it will for a' that,) That Sense and Worth, o'er a' the earth, Shall bear the gree, an' a' that. For a' that, an' a' that, It's coming yet for a' that, That Man to Man, the world o'er, Shall brothers be for a' that.

I like it. It takes a second reading and a quick google search of "a' that" to get the rhythm but I like it.

Is there for honest Poverty That hings his head, an' a' that; The coward slave-we pass him by, We dare be poor for a' that! For a' that, an' a' that. Our toils obscure an' a' that, The rank is but the guinea's stamp, The Man's the gowd for a' that.

What though on hamely fare we dine, Wear hoddin grey, an' a that; Gie fools their silks, and knaves their wine; A Man's a Man for a' that: For a' that, and a' that, Their tinsel show, an' a' that; The honest man, tho' e'er sae poor, Is king o' men for a' that.

Then let us pray that come it may, (As come it will for a' that,) That Sense and Worth, o'er a' the earth, Shall bear the gree, an' a' that. For a' that, an' a' that, It's coming yet for a' that, That Man to Man, the world o'er, Shall brothers be for a' that.

I like it. It takes a second reading and a quick google search of "a' that" to get the rhythm but I like it.

It's one of his more popular poems (you know his most popular - the most sung song in the world, particularly for new year's), but the song isn't traditionally sung today, on Burns Day. This poem is traditionally read as well as An Ode ta Haggis.

I gotta find the Brazilian version of haggis today: feijoada. Feijoada is basically the same thing, but it tastes a lot better.

In a somewhat related topic. A couple weeks ago, I wus doing some cutting and drilling on a plate. Making some stuff, rock hounding pick, hacket, and ice axes. Cause homemade is phun. But the next day my back wuz strained. It been getting better, but Sat I put in some weather stripping. Now the back is soar again.

ARE U FRACKING KIDDING ME?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!

Old age I tell ya

Yea, it pretty much sucks...

I know... I"m nearing 30

Back is slowly geting better. Down to 600 mg advil twice a day. not in pain any more, but soarness tightness is there. So its going to be a while still. In other knews, my knee, was tender going up a flight of stairs yesterday. Although that was gone later and today.

In a somewhat related topic. A couple weeks ago, I wus doing some cutting and drilling on a plate. Making some stuff, rock hounding pick, hacket, and ice axes. Cause homemade is phun. But the next day my back wuz strained. It been getting better, but Sat I put in some weather stripping. Now the back is soar again.

ARE U FRACKING KIDDING ME?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!

Old age I tell ya

Yea, it pretty much sucks...

I know... I"m nearing 30

Back is slowly geting better. Down to 600 mg advil twice a day. not in pain any more, but soarness tightness is there. So its going to be a while still. In other knews, my knee, was tender going up a flight of stairs yesterday. Although that was gone later and today.

In a somewhat related topic. A couple weeks ago, I wus doing some cutting and drilling on a plate. Making some stuff, rock hounding pick, hacket, and ice axes. Cause homemade is phun. But the next day my back wuz strained. It been getting better, but Sat I put in some weather stripping. Now the back is soar again.

ARE U FRACKING KIDDING ME?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!

Old age I tell ya

Yea, it pretty much sucks...

I know... I"m nearing 30

Back is slowly geting better. Down to 600 mg advil twice a day. not in pain any more, but soarness tightness is there. So its going to be a while still. In other knews, my knee, was tender going up a flight of stairs yesterday. Although that was gone later and today.

good about the back, bad about the knee. it's called getting old.

my back is sore too. doing some detail work masking a canvas that requires leaning over a lot. can't do it too much before the lower back starts screaming.

fucking gorgeous 70F here with a nice breeze out of the south east, partly cloudy with a 30% chance of rain in the afternoon, and a 0% chance I'm wearing socks to the Exxon english evaluations I have to do later.

Well teh winter reigns have returned after taking most of Jan off. Not uncomon. AS such it was time for the locals to drive like idiots. Cutting in and out of traffic at 70+. Texting while blazing pst me at 70+. pulling in fron of me at 50 while im pushing 65.

In a somewhat related topic. A couple weeks ago, I wus doing some cutting and drilling on a plate. Making some stuff, rock hounding pick, hacket, and ice axes. Cause homemade is phun. But the next day my back wuz strained. It been getting better, but Sat I put in some weather stripping. Now the back is soar again.

ARE U FRACKING KIDDING ME?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!

Old age I tell ya

Yea, it pretty much sucks...

I know... I"m nearing 30

Back is slowly geting better. Down to 600 mg advil twice a day. not in pain any more, but soarness tightness is there. So its going to be a while still. In other knews, my knee, was tender going up a flight of stairs yesterday. Although that was gone later and today.

good about the back, bad about the knee. it's called getting old.

my back is sore too. doing some detail work masking a canvas that requires leaning over a lot. can't do it too much before the lower back starts screaming.

Need to start a streching & exercise routine. I had been hitting the gym a bit, and that had been kicking my abs. which might have contributed to the issues. Would be willing to take any input from anyone that has a basic but effective routine, or knows one on line some place.

Oooo! New reason to bitch and moan today. I have a meeting with the school board to prepare for my son's entry this fall.

Here begins the uphill battle for a full time EA

Good luck with all that. We've been through some of that with our older 2. But looks like our 2nd is now up to speed and will be just regular classes no more individual teaching. But I'm guessing that yours will be a little more involved than mine. Hopefully your uphill fight will be easy.

fucking gorgeous 70F here with a nice breeze out of the south east, partly cloudy with a 30% chance of rain in the afternoon, and a 0% chance I'm wearing socks to the Exxon english evaluations I have to do later.

Well teh winter reigns have returned after taking most of Jan off. Not uncomon. AS such it was time for the locals to drive like idiots. Cutting in and out of traffic at 70+. Texting while blazing pst me at 70+. pulling in fron of me at 50 while im pushing 65.

my mom was complaining on stalkbook about having to drive to bakersfield in the rain today.

in other news, new englander's continue to forge ahead with the ice on the roads.

In a somewhat related topic. A couple weeks ago, I wus doing some cutting and drilling on a plate. Making some stuff, rock hounding pick, hacket, and ice axes. Cause homemade is phun. But the next day my back wuz strained. It been getting better, but Sat I put in some weather stripping. Now the back is soar again.

ARE U FRACKING KIDDING ME?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!

Old age I tell ya

Yea, it pretty much sucks...

I know... I"m nearing 30

Back is slowly geting better. Down to 600 mg advil twice a day. not in pain any more, but soarness tightness is there. So its going to be a while still. In other knews, my knee, was tender going up a flight of stairs yesterday. Although that was gone later and today.

good about the back, bad about the knee. it's called getting old.

my back is sore too. doing some detail work masking a canvas that requires leaning over a lot. can't do it too much before the lower back starts screaming.

Need to start a streching & exercise routine. I had been hitting the gym a bit, and that had been kicking my abs. which might have contributed to the issues. Would be willing to take any input from anyone that has a basic but effective routine, or knows one on line some place.

can't help you. the only one that worked for a long time ago was 500 abs and 100 push up per day (doing 20 pu and 100 abs, repeat). took about 15-20min of time once I built up to that. worked wonders. haven't even thought of that for years now though.

In a somewhat related topic. A couple weeks ago, I wus doing some cutting and drilling on a plate. Making some stuff, rock hounding pick, hacket, and ice axes. Cause homemade is phun. But the next day my back wuz strained. It been getting better, but Sat I put in some weather stripping. Now the back is soar again.

ARE U FRACKING KIDDING ME?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!

Old age I tell ya

Yea, it pretty much sucks...

I know... I"m nearing 30

Back is slowly geting better. Down to 600 mg advil twice a day. not in pain any more, but soarness tightness is there. So its going to be a while still. In other knews, my knee, was tender going up a flight of stairs yesterday. Although that was gone later and today.

Go get a massage. They do wonders for soreness and post injury pain relief. Well worth the money.

fucking gorgeous 70F here with a nice breeze out of the south east, partly cloudy with a 30% chance of rain in the afternoon, and a 0% chance I'm wearing socks to the Exxon english evaluations I have to do later.

Well teh winter reigns have returned after taking most of Jan off. Not uncomon. AS such it was time for the locals to drive like idiots. Cutting in and out of traffic at 70+. Texting while blazing pst me at 70+. pulling in fron of me at 50 while im pushing 65.

my mom was complaining on stalkbook about having to drive to bakersfield in the rain today.

in other news, new englander's continue to forge ahead with the ice on the roads.

Got 2-3 inches of snow/sleet/freezing rain today. I worked in it for 7 hours and then drove 2.5 hours home. The only time I felt unsafe was when other cars were near me on the road. People need to get their shit together.

fucking gorgeous 70F here with a nice breeze out of the south east, partly cloudy with a 30% chance of rain in the afternoon, and a 0% chance I'm wearing socks to the Exxon english evaluations I have to do later.

Well teh winter reigns have returned after taking most of Jan off. Not uncomon. AS such it was time for the locals to drive like idiots. Cutting in and out of traffic at 70+. Texting while blazing pst me at 70+. pulling in fron of me at 50 while im pushing 65.

my mom was complaining on stalkbook about having to drive to bakersfield in the rain today.

in other news, new englander's continue to forge ahead with the ice on the roads.

Got 2-3 inches of snow/sleet/freezing rain today. I worked in it for 7 hours and then drove 2.5 hours home. The only time I felt unsafe was when other cars were near me on the road. People need to get their shit together.

always amazed at a person's inability to drive in snow. easiest way to learn is to go to doughnuts in a parking lot for about 30min. seriously, best fucking lesson on what could possibly happen if you do this...etc.