This is one of those restaurants only people who live out in the woods of Geauga County are supposed to know about.

But then Kirtlanders started telling friends about it. The place gets busier every year.

The waitresses talk fast and bring your food just as quick. You will eat more than you intend. You realize on your first bite into the crispy, beer-battered pollock that it’s unbelievably light for something fried. And you debate whether to use the tartar sauce.

When you need a break, grab one of the limp fries. There’s no reason they should be good. Unlike the fish, they lack the nice crispiness you crave. But they’re inexplicably addicting.

Don’t expect to digest in peace. Conversations spill over from table to table in this locals’ bar, and you won’t be able to help yourself from laughing. Just go with it. And then ask the waitress to fetch you another piece of that fish. 10015 Chillicothe Road, Kirtland, (440) 256-8935; Fridays year-round, 4 to 10 p.m.; All-you-can-eat pollock $10.40