Description

This is a rugged and deserted crag that is to the north of Clifty in upper Rendia Canyon that houses about 20 routes or so. Some are worth doing and some aren't, but the area provide adventurous climbing nonetheless. This area was developed in the early eighties and has been long forgotten and torched. If you are a bored local and need a good workout, you might think about climbing here. Otherwise it is hardly worth the visit. It use to be a lot more enjoyable when there were lots of live trees. It gets sun most of the day and is the same type of rock that you will find at Clifty.

Getting There

Same as for Clifty but instead of crossing the streambed, continue up Mitchell Trail 69 for about a quarter mile until the cliff comes into direct view and then proceed to do some hellish bushwhacking and gnarly scrambling to the cliff base. It helps to know which route you are going to so you choose the correct gully to approach. If you have reached The Arch Trail intersection, you have gone too far. Approach time is about 30 minutes to one hour depending on trail conditions and fitness level.

The 5.6 "Original Route" can start at the base, or at the ledge on the West after a short 5th class scramble. From this point the climb is only 15-20 ft and traverses right after a few moves to the ledge on the South side of the tower to the anchors. There is a 5.8 variation that goes straight up from the base on the South side (FA - Baker, Henderson). ...[more]Browse More Classics in NM

You would need to be *very* bored. The rock on all of these routes is utter crap. Small holds break, big holds crumble, your feet will skate around on the dozen of small cubes of rock that come off of every foothold.

Seriously, skip it. I climbed here a couple of times with Luke in the mid 90s and it's not even vaguely worth the approach.