Learning Centre

Part of the DCAS initiative is to help educate the public on animal care and support. The Learning Centre is where you will find various types of information on animal care including care sessions that we regularly conduct at the shelter.

Adopting a bunny is a big commitment. Make sure you know the facts before you purchase a pet bunny. Did you know:

Pet rabbit abandonment is illegal and considered cruelty under the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act and the Criminal Code of Canada. Rabbit owners who want to re-home their pet should contact the Delta Community Animal Shelter for assistance.

Delta Community Animal Shelter and the City of Delta strongly discourages owners to abandon their pet rabbits. Anyone found to abandon pets will be referred to the BC SPCA or Police for investigation.

The life for abandoned rabbits is very difficult. Most rabbits do not live past three years in the wild and many die within the first year of their life. Threats to their wellbeing are starvation, predators, motor vehicle incidents, weather exposure, injury inflicted by territorial disputes, cruelty and disease.

For more information, contact the Delta Community Animal Shelter at 604-940-7111 or email dcas@delta.ca

Dogs are pack animals that thrive on companionship. Much like their wolf ancestors, dogs are very social. In fact, dogs are more social than humans. They need to be part of families. Being denied access to human living spaces can result in behavior and health problems. When you own a dog, you must realize you are now the dog's pack and he wants to be with his pack. Forcing a dog to live outside with little or no human companionship is one of the most psychologically damaging things a pet owner can do to a dog.

Backyard dogs have more behavior problems. Because all your dog's instincts are telling him it is not good to be left alone or isolated from his pack, your dog can become very stressed or anxious. A dog exhibits stress by digging, barking, howling or whining, chewing, escaping and hyperactivity. These problems, can, in turn, become so troublesome that your neighbors may complain about the barking, property destruction, or about your dog escaping.

Backyard dogs make lousy guard dogs. Because a dog becomes naturally protective over where they live (their territory or turf), they will only defend the place they live in. If they are never allowed in the house, then the house will not become a place to protect.

Dogs are den animals, meaning they like to have a safe, quiet and secure place to sleep, rest and hang out. A dog who resides more in your house than in the yard is a much happier, more content animal because of the security of a den and because of your companionship.

Backyard dogs are harder to train. Because a backyard dog does not develop a strong bond toward your family, they are harder to train than a dog allowed to belong in your family. They are less responsive to commands because they are not emotionally attached to your family.

Backyard dogs have higher rates of euthanasia. Backyard dogs are more often given up than house dogs because they were never looked upon as family by their human pack. Sadly, that means they are easier to dispose of. Backyard dogs do not have the opportunity to become socialized to people and other dogs and may become so fearful or even vicious that they may have to be euthanized.

Delta Animal Control is usually made aware of a backyard dog at some point in the dog's life (often due to a barking dog complaint or concern from a neighbour). Avoid Animal Control from having to come to your house by following the guide below!

What Can You Do?

Keep your dog with you! At a minimum, your dog should have access to your living space whenever you are at home, including sleeping inside your house at night. You do not have to spend every waking moment actively playing and talking to your dog; just the fact that your dog can lay quietly at your feet while you watch TV is very important to his mental well-being.

Never tie or chain your dog up outside. Dogs that are tied or chained outside suffer extreme frustration which can result in hyperactivity and/or aggression against you, your family or friends. Dogs that are tied up cannot escape from other animals or people who mean to do them harm. Dogs that are tied up can easily become entangled and do bodily harm to themselves. If you must keep your dog outside, provide a secure, high fence or an enclosed dog run with a top for those fence jumpers or climbers. Provide a top with shade, a doghouse for rainy weather, items to chew on and plenty of fresh water.

Think about how much time you will devote to your dog. People who keep their dogs outside constantly rationalize it, saying that they do spend time with their dogs, they do feed them, they do walk them. Spending an hour a day with your dog is not enough for his mental welfare. Be realistic! What about when it is rainy, cold or just too hot? Are you still spending that hour daily with your dog? Making the backyard your dog's only home does not make him a real part of your family.

Do you fit the statistics? Our lives have changed. It used to be that most people did spend a lot of time in the yard; playing, working, gardening, and socializing. Now with the age of computers, TV and hectic schedules, we actually spend as much as 75% less time outdoors in our yards and therefore less time with our devoted friend, the dog.

Train your dog! If your dog is untrained, take him to training class so you can develop better communication skills and teach him how to act appropriately in the house. If you have a puppy, get him into a puppy training and socialization class as soon as he turns 12 weeks old.

Give your dog a chance to be your best friend! Don't kick him out because you think he is un-trainable, unruly or because it is good for him to be outside. Instead, take the time to make him a part of your family. What is the point of having a dog if he is going to live his life in the backyard alone?

Barking is a behavior problem that can range from an occasional annoyance to a constant problem that causes owners to reluctantly surrender their dogs to already over-crowded animal shelters.

There are many different ways to handle a barking problem. The first and most important step in solving this problem is to identify 'why' the dog is barking. Many dogs bark out of anxiety, boredom, or loneliness. They are seeking human contact and attention. If you change the situation that causes the barking behavior you will reduce the problem.

Here are some strategies to try:

If your dog is kept outside for the majority of the time try bringing him/her inside and teaching him/her how to behave in the house. Dogs are social animals and they have a need to live with their pack (their owners). By leaving the dog alone in a backyard you are isolating the dog from the pack and as a result the dog is going to bark. By bringing the dog inside with the family, you will make a big impact on solving boredom, loneliness and anxiety.

If your dog is barking inside of your home while you are away then the dog needs to be given something to do. He/she is likely acting out of boredom or anxiety because you are not home. Taking your dog for a walk to train him/her prior to leaving will make his/her brain tired. Also, try getting some different dog toys and rotating them on different days. Filling up a "kong" type of toy with delicious doggie treats and a small amount of peanut butter will keep a dog so busy he/she will never notice that you are leaving the house! Leaving a radio or T.V. on softly as background noise also helps to reduce a dog's anxiety.

Dog trainers can provide you with many solutions for barking and work with your specific dogs personality.

Barking is a problem that affects everyone and it is your responsibility as a responsible pet owner to ensure you have a dog that is not a nuisance to your neighbours. By keeping a quiet dog in your life you will have a healthier relationship with your neighbours and more enjoyment of owning your pet.

DOGS NEED TIME OFF THE CHAIN TO LEARN GOOD BEHAVIOURPublished With Permission from Dr. Marty Becker

Knight Ridder/Tribune News Service

Every time I drive the 16 miles from my ranch to my hometown,I pass dogs that are chained to a tree, to a doghouse or to a stake driven into the ground.

In the six years I've lived here, I've never seen them run free. Sadly, millions of other pets across the country share their fate. I always feel sadness for the dogs' plight. I also feel frustration at their caretakers' lack of understanding that chaining a dog all the time can have serious consequences for the pet and its guardian.

"Dogs are social animals," says Janice Willard, veterinary ethologist from Moscow, Idaho. "They need to have company to live normal, healthy lives. Most dogs live in a human family that fills their biological need for companionship. But a chained, solitary dog is in the worst of circumstances. Not only are they starved for social contact, but often they have poor social skills from lack of experience. And they often live in a state of sensory deprivation. Their environment is barren, and they have nothing to explore or play with. They have nothing to do but pace the tiny space allotted to them. Or they become frustrated by the tantalizing world just out of their reach, increasing their anxiety and agitation."

The worst punishment for people in prison is solitary confinement, while the military uses the silent treatment as a nonviolent but highly effective means of reprimand. But these are only temporary measures; a dog may be committed to the same treatment for most of its life. What crimes did these dogs commit to deserve such a fate?

If you need to secure your dog, get a big fence. If you need a security system, install an electronic one. If you want a dog but aren't willing to love it and consider its needs, get a stuffed one.

Chaining a dog all the time is no way to treat a thinking, breathing, trusting, loving creature.

Section 26
No Responsible Person shall cause or permit an animal to be left unattended while tethered or tied on premises to which the public has access, whether the access is expressed or implied.

Section 35 (d)
Every person who keeps a domestic animal must provide it with the opportunity for exercise sufficient to maintain good health, including the opportunity to be untethered and exercised regularly under appropriate control

Section 37:
No person may cause, permit or allow and animals:
(a) to be hitched, tied, or fastened to a fixed object where a choke collar forms part of the securing apparatus, or where a rope or cord is tied directly around the animal's neck;
(b) to be hitched, tied or fastened to a fixed or heavy object where the securing device fails to allow the animal the ability to turn around freely and to easily stand, sit and lie in a normal position
(c) cause, an animal to be tethered, tied or fastened to a fixed or heavy object for more than 4 hours within a 24 hour period while it is on the property of the person responsible for the animal

Ticket Amounts Per Offence:Depending on the severity of the offence either a ticket may be written or the Animal Control Department will proceed with court charges:

Vaccines are vital to protecting your beloved cat companion. Shelter cats are always provided vaccines upon entry to the shelter to help reduce the risk of spreading or getting disease. This is important as the cats vaccination history is usually unknown.

How does FVRCP vaccine protect my cat?

Vaccines are given to prepare the body's immune system against disease causing organisms. When a vaccine is introduced, the body's immune system responds by attacking the antigens (viruses, bacteria and parasites) that resemble foreign invaders. This prepares the immune system to attack again if the body is ever introduced to it again

With this one FVRCP vaccination your cat is protected against the following diseases:

"FVR"stands for Feline (Cat) Viral Rhinotracheitiswhich is characterized by upper respiratory symptoms such as sneezing and nasal/eye discharge.

The "C"is for the Caliciviruswhich is also a form of cat type 1 herpes that may result in fever, eye or nasal discharge and ulcerations of the mouth.

The "P"stands for Panleukopenia. The symptoms are fever, loss of interest in food, depression, vomiting and diarrhea.

What reactions should I watch for?

After your cat has been vaccinated it is fairly common for your cat to have some mild reactions that will likely resolve on their own within a day:

Decrease in activity (possibly seeming depressed)

Not interested in eating as much for 24 hours - should be eating a little.

Mild fever

Although not common some reactions you may see are more serious and should be addressed by a veterinarian as soon as possible:

Not eating at all or appetite is not returned to normal after 24 hours

Still depressed or quiet after a few days

Swelling in face, paws or other parts of the body

Difficulty breathing or breathing that seems to require more effort

Vomiting

If any of these reactions occur, or you are concerned in any way, please call your veterinarian!

Is your home or fenced yard a haven, or a prison for your dog? Ideally, every dog should have access to a safe place in which to play and relax. Although fenced yards provide room for some exercise and play, too many owners assume that their dogs receive enough exercise within the boundaries of the yard.

Some owners never take their dogs for a walk and deprive themselves of many of the pleasures of pet ownership. One of the great myths of dog ownership is the need for a huge amount of space when really what a dog needs is your time.

Every dog, no matter what breed or size, deserves at least two walks a day and every owner will benefit from providing this exercise.

Why is walking your dog so important?

Time together, especially active time together, provides an opportunity for dog and owner to interact and establish mutual communication and a strong bond of affection.

Dogs on a walk also get to socialize with other dogs. This is especially beneficial for puppies that have had all their vaccines; they learn the rules of canine social interaction from meeting older dogs.

Most dogs will not run around a home and/or fenced yard enough to get the exercise they need. Your dog may run up and down the fence line barking at a passing stranger two or three times a day, but unless your yard is the size of a football field, that is not much exercise. If you and your dog walk a kilometre or more a day, you will both benefit by building strength and endurance, burning off calories, breathing fresh air and discovering what's new in the neighbourhood.

House and yard dogs get bored. Walk past a fenced yard and watch the resident dog race along the fence line, press its face through the links, bark, pant, whimper and practically turn somersaults to get your attention. Imagine being able to see a park, alley, or vacant lot from your home or yard but never getting the chance to explore it. No wonder dogs get frustrated! They deserve some variety in their lives, which daily walks can supply.

If it's too cold for you, it's too cold for your dog!

It is always important to check the weather conditions before you set out. A dog's temperature tolerance depends on many factors, including size, amount and type of fur, and breed. Speak to your veterinarian about the particular exercise needs and temperature tolerance of your dog. There are many types of boots and coats now available for dogs of any size.

Scheduling your walks during the warmest time of the day in winter and the coolest time of day in the summer will lessen the chance of frost bite and heat exhaustion for both of you.

It is very exciting to welcome a new cat into your home.The adventure of getting to know each other begins the minute you choose each other in the shelter. There are a few things to keep in mind when introducing your new cat to his/her new life.

Although a shelter is not the ideal forever home for cats the shelter is the only home your new cat has known for quite sometime. When s/he came in to the shelter s/he had to adapt to a new routine, new sounds and smells and forever changing visitors. Although your cat was making the best of the situation and was doing well in the shelter, the transition from his/her old life to shelter life has taken time and diligence on the staff's part. It has been very important to make sure s/he is healthy and not suffering from too much stress, as stress can lead to illness during this next transition.

It can be a big scary world outside the shelter and now it is your time to help assist your cat to deal with another transition (into your home). You can encourage a smooth and stress-free transition by following a few simple guidelines.

REINFORCE THE FEELING OF SAFETY

Introduce the cat to his/her new home slowly. Set up one room in your house as the cat's safe place. Choose a quiet room (such as the bathroom) away from the excitement of kids, dinner preparations and loud television sets. Place the cat's litter-box in one corner and food/water dishes in the other corner. Make a cozy bed. Ensure there are no safety issues in the room you have chosen (such as electrical cables hanging in a spare TV room, or the toilet seat left up in the washroom).

Initially put the cat carrier into the already prepared room. Leave the carrier in the room with a towel on top of it. This will allow the cat to either hide when it wants or perch on top when it wants. Open the door and let the cat come out in his/her own time. Don't reach for the cat. Let him/her come to you. Visit with the cat in this room for the first day (or longer if the cat seems to be extra nervous). If s/he doesn't eat for the first day don't worry. Be sure that fresh wet and dry food is available, along with water.

IMPORTANT NOTE:After two days if the cat is still not eating you will need to seek veterinary advice. If you are fostering the cat please contact the shelter staff for direction. If you have adopted a new cat, a voucher for a free veterinary exam was provided to you and should be utilized if your cat is not eating. It is important that cats do not go without food for 3 days as this can result in a life threatening disease.

Once your new cat seems comfortable (eating, seeking affection and exploring more) you can then open the door to the rest of the house and let him/her explore at his/her own pace. However, it is recommended that the cat stay in the "safe room" when you are not at home or when you are not interacting with him/her for at least one week. This will help the cat get to know the smells and sounds of their new home, or new animal friends, but from a safe distance. Also, being close to food/water and litter will reinforce eating and elimination habits.

If you have another cat/dog in the house ask the shelter staff or your veterinarian for information about how to perform a successful introduction between your new pet and your original pet(s).

JUDGING YOUR NEW CAT'S PERSONALITY

Living in a cage or one room in the shelter is not the most ideal for your cat to develop and show his/her relaxed and natural behaviour/personality. Reinforce good behaviour and discourage bad behaviour by setting up your home for your new cat's success. Statistically your new cat will have completed the transition and will be showing true personality traits and habits after three months - so be patient! Your cat will appreciate your understanding and support!

Problem behaviours can often be attributed to the stress of the transition.

1. FURNITURE SCRATCHING: Cats scratch to sharpen their claws (done by stripping off the old shell to reveal a new one) and to mark their territory. They will do this on any material they can get traction from.

Cats are most eager to scratch after waking up. By placing a cat scratch/post/tree beside the cat's favorite sleeping place you will reduce the chance of the cat using your furniture to satisfy this need. Also showing your new cat where to scratch is helpful. Hold them near the post and scratch their claws on the surface. Putting catnip in and around the scratching post will also help to encourage your cat to use it.

Scratching is a normal behaviour for a cat and should only be discouraged because of the location chosen, not the activity itself. A spray bottle (water only) is a good way to surprise your cat when s/he is doing a negative behaviour. Try to make it so the cat does not associate the spray with you but rather with the action they are doing. One way this can be done is by hiding around a corner when you do the spraying and only spray once to interrupt the behaviour. Try to immediately redirect the negative behaviour to a positive alternative. Be sure to stay consistent with your rules and have a cat scratch/pad in every room of the house.

2. KING OF THE CASTLE: Your old home is now your new cat's castle. As with every king/queen they like to be able to know what is happening in their kingdom. Check your home to see if there are raised surfaces for the cat. If the answer is "no," make some! Cats need to be able to jump up and survey their territory. This is natural cat behaviour and part of owning a cat. Do you have valuable mementos that are easily broken? Put them away until your cat is happily moved in. Check out all the nooks and crannies. Are there places that could be dangerous for the cat to explore or hide in? If so, block them off.

3. NIPS AND NIBBLES: As your new cat has to learn about your expectations you too will have to learn about his/her expectations. Cats have preferences about their interactions, and how they are touched just as people do. As your new cat learns to trust you they will begin to welcome your affection more. Don't be surprised or put off if your new cat gives you negative feed back by a nip or scratch in the first few months. Realize that it comes from a place of personal protection or from play. Take note of what triggered the behavior and try to avoid that type of interaction or reassess a safer way to play. Play is important to cats and should be encouraged as it brings out the natural instincts of hunting and will offer an outlet to reduce stress.

Take your time getting to know your new cat and utilize resources to help ensure a successful friendship. If you have any questions seek answers through your veterinarian or Delta Community Animal Shelter staff. We are here to help!

Making the decision to adopt a dog does not come easily. We know you have thought carefully about the responsibility and commitment of nurturing your new family member. Your dedication in the next few months will bring years of faithful companionship, joy, and unconditional love.

Your first few days and weeks may be challenging for both you and your new dog. Be patient, consistent and loving, but be a leader as well! The more structure you give your dog in the first few weeks the more your dog will easily adjust to his new home. Anxiety will be reduced when your dog can predict his environment and what is expected of him/her.

Be sure the home environment is stress free and calm when you arrive with the dog. Show him/her right away where to eliminate outside and give him/her lots of praise when he/she goes to the bathroom outside of the house.

Always keep an eye on your new dog to keep him/her out of trouble. It is our job to ensure success and we bare sole responsibility for the transition into the home. If your dog is okay with going into a crate then use this to confine your new dog for short periods (no longer than 4 hours) of time when you cannot watch him/her. If you use a crate ensure it is big enough to stand up, turn around and lie down again. In addition, always use treats when encouraging your dog into a crate, and ensure your dog goes to the bathroom before being put in a crate and when let out.

Start right away with teaching your dog appropriate behavior. Do not wait to let him/her "settle in" because often times they come with behaviors we do not like, which is why they ended up at the shelter. It takes approximately 4 weeks for a dog to bond with a new owner, so now is the time to begin establishing boundaries and leadership.

As soon as you bring your dog home, immediately take him/her to his/her elimination spot outside and give him/her a command to go to the bathroom. Once s/he has eliminated then you can bring him/her into the home and let him/her check things out.

Once he/she has settled a bit, then you want to begin doing some quick departures and arrivals so s/he gets used to you coming and going. Just step outside of the house and close the door for a few seconds, then come back into the house. Repeat this exercise at least 10 times, increasing the duration and working up to 5 minutes. This will teach him/her that you will always come back after you leave. Be very casual about departures and arrivals. Do not make a big fuss about coming and going. Ignore your dog until after s/he has calmed down.

When you are out, leave the TV or radio on low volume for comforting background noise.

ALWAYS supervise children in the presence of the new dog. Never leave them alone together for at least a few months.

Don't let your dog off leash until your dog has perfect recall and will come back to you EVERY time.

Also, don't take your dog out to the dog park until you have established how s/he reacts to other dogs – usually a month or more. Dog parks can be difficult for dogs. Instead set up a few "playdates" with one or two dogs at your home or theirs. Introduce the dogs by going for a long walk first and seek professional help if you are unsure of how it will go.

A little bit about dog psychology….

How a dog thinks:Dogs are social animals and need daily affection and attention. They also need to know what is expected of them so they can succeed in making the right choice. You can teach a dog appropriate behavior through proper leadership as a dog owner. You do not need to be "dominant" because this will break down your relationship with your dog. You need to be a good leader by teaching your dog that appropriate behaviors earn rewards and inappropriate behaviors do not. You want to create a cooperative relationship with your dog based on respect and trust.

It is imperative that you establish yourself as the leader by shaping your dog's behavior in a positive way using whatever motivates your dog, such as food, affection or play. The dog will begin to be less fearful of new experiences because it does not have to rely on itself for its own safety. That is now your job as the leader!

Learn to lead:

A good leader does not need to be frightening or violent in order to get compliance from a dog. A leader needs to guide their dog and create an environment where they can succeed and make few mistakes. By using the following training guidelines, you will establish yourself as the leader in a loving and non-threatening way.

Teach your dog to ask for things:

Say please for meals: By making your dog sit and then releasing him/her with a "Fido, OK!" before he eats reinforces the fact that you are the leader. Do not allow him to free feed or dive into the food without your OK or he will think s/he is in control. You can also take it to the next level by hand feeding him/her.

Say please to go outside: Before going for a walk, have the dog sit, then put his/her collar and leash on, and then open the door. Do not allow the dog to move unless you release him/her with the "Fido, OK!", to let him go outside.

Say please for treats: Ask the dog to sit before getting a treat. Only do this when you are NOT doing a formal training session. Training should be done with praise as the only reward.

Say please for a greeting: When your dog runs to greet you, have him/her sit before touching him/her. If s/he tries to jump on you, say "No!" and turn your back on him/her (don't push him/her away with your hands as hands represent affection). If s/he sits, the say "Good dog!" and turn back to greet him/her. Keep repeating this until s/he sits politely to be greeted.

Say please for attention: This reduces the possibility of a dog jumping on you during greetings.

Here is a list of common foods that are bad or poisonous for your dog. If you suspect that your dog might have eaten any food that might be toxic, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Alcohol – Do not give your dog sips of any alcoholic beverage. Ingestion can lead to injury, disorientation, sickness, urination problems or even coma or death from alcohol poisoning. Some dogs may be attracted to alcoholic drinks so don't leave one sitting where a dog can reach it.

Anti-freeze – Acute cases of antifreeze toxicity (when an animal consumes antifreeze) often present as if the animal is intoxicated with alcohol. This is an emergency situation, and life threatening within hours. Please see your veterinarian immediately. Success of treatment depends on a quick response after consumption.

Apple – The seeds contain cyanogenic glycosides which can result in cyanide poisoning.

Avocado – Avocado contains a toxic element called persin which can damage heart, lung and other tissue in many animals. Avocados are high in fat content and can trigger an upset stomach, vomiting or even pancreatitis. The seed pit is also toxic and if swallowed can become lodged in the intestinal tract where it may cause a severe blockage which will have to be removed surgically. Since avocado is the main ingredient in guacamole be sure and keep your dog out of the dip.

Baby Food – Before feeding any baby food to your dog check the ingredients to see if it contains onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs. Feeding baby food in large amounts may result in nutritional deficiencies.

Bones – Cooked bones can be very hazardous for your dog. Bones become brittle when cooked which causes them to splinter when broken. The splinters have sharp edges that have been known to become stuck in the teeth, caused choking when caught in the throat or caused a rupture or puncture of the stomach lining or intestinal tract. Especially bad bones are turkey and chicken legs, ham, pork chop and veal.

Symptoms of choking are:

Pale or blue gums

Gasping open-mouthed breathing

Pawing at face

Slow, shallow breathing

Unconscious, with dilated pupils

Raw bones (uncooked in any way) like chicken necks or beef knuckle bones are generally considered safe and help keep your dog's teeth healthy by removing plaque. A caution - bones have a high calcium content and too many can cause severe constipation.

Bread Dough – When bread dough is ingested your dog's body heat causes the dough to rise in the stomach. During the rising process alcohol is produced as the dough expands. Pets who have eaten bread dough may experience abdominal pain, bloating, vomiting, disorientation and depression. A pet needs to eat only a small amount to cause a problem, because bread dough can rise to many times its size.

Broccoli – The toxic ingredient in broccoli is isothiocynate. While it may cause stomach upset it probably won't be very harmful unless the amount fed exceeds 10% of the dog's total daily diet.

Caffeine – Beverages with caffeine (like soda, tea, coffee) acts as a stimulant and can accelerate your pet's heartbeat to a dangerous level. Pets ingesting caffeine have been known to have seizures, some fatal.

Candy – Sugarless candy containing xylitol has been recognized by the National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPCC) to be a risk to pets (first published July 2004). This compound can cause liver damage and death in some dogs. This information is recent and some vets may not be familiar with xylitol poisoning. If your dog has eaten sugarless candy you can contact the NAPCC by telephone, 1-888-426-4435 for more information.

Cat Food – Cat food is not formulated for canine consumption. It is generally too high in protein and fats and is not a balanced diet for a dog.

Chocolate – Chocolate contains theobromine, a compound that is a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic. When affected by an overdose of chocolate, a dog can become excited and hyperactive. Due to the diuretic effect, it may pass large volumes of urine and it will be unusually thirsty. Vomiting and diarrhea are also common. The effect of theobromine on the heart is the most dangerous effect. Theobromine will either increase the dog's heart rate or may cause the heart to beat irregularly. Death is quite possible, especially with exercise. Symptoms of chocolate poisoning include: vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, hyperactivity, irregular heartbeat and seizures.

Larger quantities of chocolate can poison or even kill a medium or large dog. An ounce or two of chocolate may not seem like much but it can be lethal to a small dog that weighs 10 lbs. or less. After their dog has eaten a large quantity of chocolate, many pet owners assume their pet is unaffected. However, the signs of sickness may not be seen for several hours, with death following within twenty-four hours.

Cocoa powder and cooking chocolate are the most toxic forms. These forms of chocolate contain ten times more theobromine than milk chocolate. Even licking a substantial part of the chocolate icing from a cake can make a dog sick. The next most dangerous forms are semi-sweet chocolate and dark chocolate, with milk chocolate being the least dangerous. A dog needs to eat more than a 250 gm block of milk chocolate, however the high amount of fat found in milk chocolate can lead to an attack of pancreatitis.

During many holidays such as Christmas, New Year's Day, Easter and Halloween, chocolate is often accessible to curious dogs, and in some cases, people unwittingly poison their dogs by offering them chocolate as a treat or letting them lick a frosting bowl.

Corn Cobs – Many dogs have suffered and, in some cases, died after eating corn-on-the-cob, because the corn cob caused a partial or complete intestinal obstruction. Never allow your dog access to corn cobs.

Dairy Products – Most dairy products are digested poorly by dogs who have little or none of the enzyme required to digest the lactose in milk. Just like lactose-intolerant people, lactose-intolerant dogs can develop excessive intestinal gas (flatulence) and may have foul-smelling diarrhea. It is best to avoid most dairy products altogether, although small amounts of cheese or plain yogurt are tolerated by most dogs, since these products have less lactose than most.

Food Preparation Items – When chewing food remnants from

aluminum foil or pans

candy wrappers

paper plates and cups

plastic forks, spoons, knives

plastic beverage rings from six-packs

roasting bags

turkey skewers, lacing

a dog may swallow pieces which can cause abdominal discomfort, intestinal blockage, internal bleeding and in some cases, death. There is also a possibility of choking or suffocation. Dispose of food preparation items in a manner that your dog or another animal cannot get to it.

Eggs (Raw) – Raw egg whites contain a protein called avidin, which can deplete your dog of biotin, one of the B vitamins. Biotin is essential to your dog's growth and coat health. Additionally, raw eggs are often contaminated with bacteria, such as salmonella, and you could end up giving your dog food poisoning in addition to biotin deficiency.

Symptoms of biotin depletion are hair loss, weakness, growth retardation and skeleton deformity. If your dog is suffering from these symptoms the situation is urgent, and veterinary treatment is needed. Cooked eggs are high in protein and make an excellent treat. It is only the raw eggs that should not be given to your dog.

Grapes or Raisins – Although the minimum lethal dosage is not known, grapes and raisins can be toxic to dogs when ingested in large quantities. The symptoms are gastrointestinal signs including vomiting and diarrhea, and then signs of kidney failure with an onset of severe kidney signs starting about 24 hours after ingestion. The amount of grapes eaten varied between 9 oz. and 2 lbs., which worked out to be between 0.41 and 1.1 oz/kg of body weight. It has been reported that two dogs died directly from the toxicity, three were euthanized due to poor response to treatment and five dogs lived.

Due to the severity of the signs and the potential for death, the veterinarians at the National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPCC) advocate aggressive treatment for any dog believed to have ingested excessive amounts of grapes or raisins, including inducing vomiting, stomach pumping and administration of activated charcoal, followed by intravenous fluid therapy for at least 48 hours or as indicated based on the results of blood tests for kidney damage.

Hops – Spent hops as used in making beer.

Liver – Many dog treats and prepared foods contain liver so it may surprise you to find liver on the bad foods list. In small amounts liver is good for your dog, but if the liver intake is too high it can cause nutritional problems because liver has a high content of vitamin A. Consumption of this vitamin in large amounts can lead to vitamin A toxicity, or hypervitaminosis A. If your dog eats raw liver or consumes three servings of cooked liver a week it could lead to bone problems. Feeding liver to a dog taking Vitamin A supplements can lead to an overdose of Vitamin A.

Symptoms of hypervitaminosis A are deformed bones, excessive bone growth on the elbows and spine, weight loss and anorexia. If left unchecked, hypervitaminosis A has in some cases caused death.

Macadamia Nuts – The toxic compound is unknown but eating as few as six nuts without the shell has been known to cause elevated body temperature, accelerated heartbeat, tremors in the skeletal muscles, and weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters. Affected dogs have difficulty or are unable to rise, are distressed and usually panting. Some affected dogs have had swollen limbs and showed pain when the limb was manipulated. Dogs did recover from the muscle weakness and pain and it is not known if there have been any fatal cases. Macadamia butter is included in this warning.

Mouldy or Spoiled Foods – The common mold found growing on many foods contain toxins such as Penicillium mold toxins or tremorgenic mycotoxins. Symptoms of poisoning include severe tremors and seizures that can last for hours or even days. This is considered an emergency and medical treatment is needed to control the seizures and detoxify the dog.

Prevention is the best course, don't feed your dog moldy food left in the refrigerator and don't allow him to raid your garbage cans or compost bin (or your neighbour's).

Mushrooms – Mushroom poisoning can be fatal if certain species of mushrooms are eaten. The most commonly reported severely toxic species of mushroom in the US is Amanita phalloides, but other Amanita species are also toxic. They can cause severe liver disease and neurological disorders. The recommendation is to induce vomiting when these mushrooms are ingested and to give activated charcoal, as well. Supportive treatment for liver disease may also be necessary.

Nutmeg – Nutmeg is reported to be a hallucinogenic when ingested in large doses. Nutmeg has been known to cause tremors, seizures and in some cases, death.

Nuts – Nuts in general are not good for dogs as their high phosphorus content may lead to bladder stones.

Onions – Onions cause hemolytic anemia, which means that the red blood cells break down leaving the dog short of oxygen. Onion poisoning can occur with a single ingestion of large quantities or with repeated meals containing small amounts of onion. The condition generally improves once the dog is prevented from eating any further onion. The poisoning may occur a few days after the dog has eaten the onion. At first dogs affected by onion poisoning show gastroenteritis with vomiting and diarrhea, weakness and show little or no interest in food. The red pigment from the burst blood cells appears in an affected dog's urine making it dark colored. The dog will experience shortness of breath because the red blood cells that carry oxygen through the body are reduced in number. Other symptoms are elevated body temperature, confusion, and increased heart rate. Seek veterinary care immediately.

The quantity of onions, raw or cooked, required is high enough that dogs can generally tolerate small doses of onions without any problem and moderate amounts of onion without apparent signs of onion poisoning. All forms of onion can be a problem including dehydrated onions, raw onions, cooked onions and table scraps containing cooked onions and/or garlic. Left over pizza, Chinese dishes and commercial baby food containing onion, sometimes fed as a supplement to young pets, can cause illness.

While garlic also contains the toxic ingredient thiosulphate, it seems that garlic is less toxic and large amounts would need to be eaten to cause illness.

Plastic Food Wrap – Dogs have been known to ingest pieces of plastic wrap while trying to eat food remnants left on its surface. Plastic food wrap can cause choking or intestinal obstruction. Dispose of plastic wrap in a manner that your dog or other animals cannot get to it.

Play Dough – Home made play dough contains high levels of salt. When ingested this can cause salt poisoning which can be fatal.

Potatoes – Solanum alkaloids can be found in green sprouts and green potato skins, which occurs when the tubers are exposed to sunlight during growth or after harvest. The relatively rare occurrence of actual poisoning is due to several factors: solanine is poorly absorbed; it is mostly hydrolyzed into less toxic solanidinel; and the metabolites are quickly eliminated. Cooked, mashed potatoes are fine for dogs, and are actually quite nutritious and digestible.

Raisins or Grapes – See Grapes

Rich Fatty Foods – Rich, fatty foods can be very dangerous to dogs susceptible to attacks of pancreatitis. Often you may not know that your dog is susceptible until he is very sick with his first attack. It is often the smaller, more energetic breeds like miniature or toy poodles, Cocker Spaniels, Miniature Schnauzers, and other small terrier-type dogs who seem particularly prone. However, any dog may have a problem. It is best to avoid these foods altogether.

turkey skin

bacon, sausages, hot dogs

fruit cake, plum pudding

deep-fried foods

Signs of pancreatitis generally include an acute onset of vomiting (sometimes with diarrhea) and abdominal pain, which may be evidenced as a hunched posture or "splinting" of the abdomen when picked up. The dog may become very sick quickly and often needs intensive fluid and antibiotic therapy.

Rhubarb – Leaves

Salmon (Raw) – Commonly called "Salmon Poisoning Disease" (or SPD), this can be a problem for anyone who feeds their dog a raw meat diet that includes raw salmon, but it is mostly seen in the Pacific Northwest and California. The cause is infection by a rickettsial organism called Neorickettsia helminthoeca. The rickettsial organism does not directly infect the dog but is carried instead by a parasite (a flatworm or fluke) called Nanophyteus salmincola through two intermediate hosts – freshwater snails and salmonid fish.

Nanophyteus salmincola are found to infect some species of freshwater snails. The infected snail is ingested by the salmon as part of the food chain. Neither the fluke nor the rickettsial organism are lethal to the fish. The dog is exposed only when it ingests the secondary host - an infected fish. After the dog ingests the fish, the encysted fluke larvae burst and embed in the dog's intestinal tract and the rickettsia are introduced. The cycle continues when ova are excreted in dog feces to infect more snails.

A sudden onset of symptoms occur 5-7 days after ingestion of fish. Initial symptoms include lethargy and anorexia. Peaking of temperature between 104-107 in the first two days and then slowly returns to normal. Persistent vomiting by the fourth day. There is bloody diarrhea within a few days of vomiting onset. The diarrhea is often bright yellow color. There are enlarged lymph nodes.

In the acute stages, gastrointestinal symptoms are quite similar to canine parvovirus. Nasal and ocular symptoms can resemble canine distemper. If left untreated, SPD has a mortality rate of up to 90%. SPD can be diagnosed with a fecal sample and is treatable if caught in time. Treatment may include supportive hydration, an antibiotic to kill the rickettsial organism, and a "wormer" to kill the parasite. Improvement may be seen in as little as two days.

Prevention is simple, cook all fish before feeding any to your dog. If you are outdoors hiking or camping or live near streams and rivers were salmon spawn, keep a close eye on your dog on don't let your pet run free to insure that no fish carcasses are ingested. Please see your vet immediately if you suspect your dog has ingested raw salmon.

Salt – Iodized salt and salty foods can cause stomach ailments and pancreatitis. Some dogs, especially large breeds, have been known to gulp too much water after eating salty foods and developed a life threatening condition called bloat during which the stomach fills with gas and twists, leading to a painful death unless emergency treatment is received immediately.

Table Scraps – Table scraps are not a nutritionally balanced diet for a dog. If fed at all, scraps should never be more than 10% of the diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat and all cooked bones discarded. Also see "Rich, Fatty Foods" above.

Tobacco Products – Cigarettes and cigarette butts, cigars, pipe tobacco, nicotine patches, nicotine gum and chewing tobacco can be fatal to dogs if ingested. Signs of nicotine poisoning can appear within an hour and include hyperactivity, salivation, panting, vomiting and diarrhea. Advanced signs include muscle weakness, twitching, collapse, coma, increased heart rate and cardiac arrest. If anyone who lives in or visits your home smokes, tell them to keep tobacco products out of reach of pets and to dispose of butts immediately. If you suspect your dog has ingested any of these seek veterinary treatment immediately.

Tomatoes and Tomato Plants – These contain atropine which can cause dilated pupils, tremors and irregular heartbeat. The highest concentration of atropine is found in the leaves and stems of tomato plants, next is the unripe (green) tomatoes and then the ripe tomato.

Water – Yet another surprise to find on the "bad foods list" is water, but there are dangers lurking in water that you need to be aware of.

Stagnant water in ponds, bogs, small lakes, canals, seasonal creeks and other places where water sets still may contain harmful bacteria (Leptospira interrogans) and parasites such as giardia.

Toilet water with fresheners or cleaners in the tank or bowl contain toxic chemicals.

The Delta Community Animal Shelter would encourage all pet lovers to be "raccoon aware."

Please ensure that your garbage is completely secure to discourage raccoons feeding and populating your area. Please keep your pets in at night (dusk to dawn), feed them indoors and use screening on any available fish ponds. Encourage your neighbors to be "raccoon aware" and discourage anyone from purposely feeding them.

There have been reported instances to our office of raccoons attacking and injuring dogs, cats and other animals and discouragement of their habitation will reduce these occurrences and increase the safety of your neighborhood.

The following information has been gathered from several British Columbia animal related websites, which we hope you will find useful.

In suburban areas raccoons most frequently seek out attics, garage rafters, crawl spaces or sundecks as isolated, safe places to have their young. By mid-June, when the young are old enough to climb, the family will seek a den closer to a food source; when weaned the young will begin foraging.

Raccoons are omnivorous (eat both plant and animal foods). One litter of 3-5 young is raised per year. Most litters are born in April-May, but some females may not give birth until June, July or August.

Raccoons are nocturnal. They do not truly hibernate, but they do "hole up" in dens and become inactive during severe winter weather. While raccoons are not normally aggressive and rarely injure people, they can be dangerous when threatened or cornered. They are wild animals and should be treated accordingly.

Raccoons are in the bear family and eat mostly vegetation, insects, mice and rats. Mothers will protect their babies to the death. They have been observed trying to protect all baby raccoons from harm even if they are not their own. They are wonderful, loving, intelligent animals, and they deserve to live. The average weight of adult raccoons is between 8 and 10 pounds, or about the size of a house cat. They are often attracted to pet food and seeds left out at night. The mother and babies will come out to eat in the daytime if they cannot get enough at night.

If you don't want them in your yard - remove any possible food sources. For example, don't put your garbage out until the pick-up time. Use bungee cord restrainers on your garbage can lids.

Raccoon Damage and Prevention:

Raccoons can cause considerable damage to vegetable gardens, particularly sweet corn. Freshly laid sod lawns are often rolled up in search of earth worms and grubs. In all of these cases, the best method of prevention is to deny them entry. Keep raccoons away from poultry with tightly covered doors and windows in buildings or mesh-wire fences with an overhang surrounding poultry yards. Raccoons are excellent climbers and can climb conventional fences or bypass them by using overhanging limbs.

Raiding garbage cans: Keep smelly garbage in plastic bags indoors, or build a garbage shed. The lids on garbage cans should fit tightly. They can be secured with rubber straps and hooks, but these items should be removed before municipal employees collect the refuse. Putting a half cup of household ammonia in garbage bags also helps.

Raccoons in buildings: Raccoons cause damage or nuisance problems around houses and outbuildings when they try to enter attics, crawl spaces or chimneys. In extreme cases, they may tear off shingles or fascia boards. To keep them out, cover possible access points with heavy wire screening. Also, tree access to rooftops should be eliminated by pruning overhanging limbs and by placing a piece of tin loosely around the trunk, flaring it out like an upside-down funnel.

Fish Ponds:Raccoons will eat fish in ornamental ponds. Wire screening is the best protection.

General Comments: Do not put out food for raccoons or other wildlife and never leave pet food where wildlife can get to it. Keep pets indoors at night. Dogs are not an effective method of keeping raccoons away as many raccoons will not hesitate to proceed in a fight with a dog.

The use of poison to kill any wildlife is illegal. Persons experiencing persistent or serious problems with raccoons should consider obtaining assistance from a professional pest control company to remove the animals. These companies are listed in the yellow pages of your telephone directory.

Discourage raccoons from your area:

Suggested Steps:

Check the areas around your home and clean up all the garbage, paper, food, berries that fall from trees, etc. Totally clean the area. Then, after it's spotless, walk around your home again and do a double check.

Once you are totally satisfied that the area is "clean", a further suggestion would be to purchase metal garbage cans with lids that stay tight and stay attached.

Place heavy weights on the lids when there is garbage, food or water in these trash cans.

Keep the cans smelling clean by washing them out with the hose when needed and tip them upside down so they don't store water for raccoons to drink.

Always place garbage inside the cans and replace lids immediately otherwise the raccoons will smell it and come to eat out of your trash cans.

Make sure that any lawn chairs or tables, and anything outside does not even have a crumb on it when you retire for the night.

If at all possible, store the trash cans indoors or somewhere inside if you are gone for a long time or if you see animals around in the neighborhood.

If you have meat or very tempting food in the trash, always double plastic bag it before throwing it away in the cans and place a little bleach or strong cleanser on the bag outside before depositing it in the can.

Remember: If you leave food and water or even leave the hose dripping water, you will most always find wildlife around your home.

Warnings:

Raccoons can be scared away by flashing a light on them or making a loud noise.

Trapping is not an effective method of wildlife control because it doesn't address the problem of the availability of food and shelter. Trapped wildlife can suffer severe self-injury in their attempts to escape and this is more probable as their confinement in the trap is prolonged. Furthermore, relocation of the captured animals adds to the stress of being in an unfamiliar territory, increases the potential for transmission of infectious diseases and increases conflict between the animal and its environment. Trapping and relocation of adult animals (especially during the spring and summer) in many instances separates mother from babies and will result in the death of dependent offspring. In addition, the Ministry of Natural Resources studies show that 60% of relocated raccoons will die.

To summarize:

If you don't want them in your yard - remove any possible food sources. For example, don't put your garbage out until the pick-up time. Use bungee cord restrainers on your garbage can lids.

Do not put out food for raccoons or other wildlife and never leave pet food where wildlife can get it.

Keep pets indoors at night, from dusk until dawn.

Your Yellow Pages directory lists local pest control companies that provide humane removal and relocation (up to one kilometer away) of nuisance raccoons.

To discourage raccoons in your area, the use of motion activated ultrasonic animal repellent devices which use high pitched noises to scare off the raccoons may prove effective. There are several products available at retail stores or for order on-line.

The use of an electric perimeter alarm or outdoor motion detector security lights also may help keep raccoons away.

Other methods proving effective in discouraging neighborhood raccoons are the use of products such as "Coyote Urine Spray" available for purchase at local greenhouses and plant nurseries.

If all else fails, contact your local pest control company or government wildlife department.

If skunks, raccoons and possums are tearing apart your garbage, digging up your garden or making a bedroom out of your shed, try these tips to encourage them to move on.

Light the area: try hanging a mechanics light, lantern or use large flashlights to light the area and leave it lit. Nocturnal animals are sensitive to light and are likely to move.

Permeate the area with a strong smell: put ammonia, bleach, or other strong smelling liquid in small containers with holes poked in the lid, and place around the area. Other deterrents are available at your local garden or hardware stores.

Disturb the peace: use an old clock radio set to talk radio or a rock station. The noise will most likely be an irritant to your guest.

Prevent temptation: double bag your garbage and use cans with lids to prevent them smelling your yummy leftovers, and to make it more difficult for them to access it.

Keep your pets inside: pests are attracted to dog and cat food. Keeping pet food inside can reduce the amount of wildlife traffic in your backyard. Be sure to keep pets inside, unless supervised, as raccoons and other mammals may see your family cat as dinner for its babies. Wildlife can carry various diseases (including rabies) that can be passed on to your cat or dog and make them very ill and even result in death.

Never try to approach or catch any wildlife even if it appears injured!