Wolverine 1000 Mile, Summer Blazers, & More – The Thurs. Handful

February 27, 2014 By Joe| Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here's why.

Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend, or sometimes, a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Expect these things when necessary. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below. Included are a few picks worth pointing out.

First, gotta address the shoes. To some, wholecuts are sexy as hell. To others, they’re ugly as sin. Now, Macy’s has labeled this shade as “rust”. Rust? Heard of Walnut, Bourbon, even Merlot and Chili. But haven’t heard of the shade “rust” in a while. Maybe they’re bourbon? Full review of the Hanover over here. Other Allen Edmonds that should be up for the discount here, including the new Mora 2.0. No word on how much of the shell in that Bar III sportcoat is poly, but at least the description says it’s half-lined. Remember, the 25% only comes off once you get $100+ in your cart. Hat tip to Charlie Z. for sending in a style tip on this one.

Was just 30% off new arrivals last week, now it’s 30% off everything, and some additional markdowns have been applied to the new stuff. That pin-dot shirt should be a nice way to work a not-so-normal pattern into a spring or summer outfit without going nuts. Wear it to a wedding with a khaki cotton suit and a knit tie. Fancy friggin’ pants, without going full dandy. Blazer is a bit more casual in person. 55% linen, 45% cotton, and a herringbone pattern that stands out a bit. Not in a bad way, but it has a bit of a summer-tweed thing going on (without the weight or scratch). Sleeve buttons are non functional, side vents in the rear, and it is fully lined, but at least it’s lined in acetate (which will breathe some, unlike polyester). Size shown above is a 38R and fits real well off the rack.

This is odd. Can’t recall Brooks Brothers running a select items sale anytime in the not too distant past. It’s Brooks Brothers, so even with 30% off it’s not cheap, ($28 for a t-shirt?), but for the BB Diehards, worth a mention. That bold striped crewneck sweater pictured above has a nice gauge to the knit, is made from a cotton wool blend, and looks all sorts of right, but… $90? Ow.

This is a tiered, must-spend code, and the thresholds are sky high. BIGEVENT14 = 20% off $250, 25% off $500, and 30% off $1000+ (good grief, who’s dropping a grand at a time while shopping online?). It’s FAR from the Sierra Trading Post 2nds quality deal that happened months ago… but hey, it’s something. For those unfamiliar with East Dane, head here for an introduction.

What is this, oddly high threshold code week? $75 is a lot at Target. At least free shipping kicks in at $50, so by default, you don’t get dinged on those charges. A few points:

#1.The Chukkas are great (although some say the sole wears fast). The T-shirts are as good as it gets for under ten bucks, and the 60/40 cotton poly blend is super soft. Athletic fit too. UPDATE: Looks like the Chukkas aren’t sold online anymore? Weird.

#2. Haven’t seen that new 98% cotton / 2% spandex suit jacket yet, but there might be something there. And if the classic fit on their ultimate dress shirt isn’t worth tailoring up to you, they do have a more tailored / 100% cotton option. But boy, those ultimate dress shirts hold up well.

#3. Meanwhile, that Timex is legitimate. Great weight. And it’s actually less w/ the chambray shirt via Target, than it is on Amazon alone.

Comments

Uniqlo is also going to finally cut and size for North America instead of sticking with “2D” flat designs that worked so well for Japanese and Asians in general. Hopefully one day their blazers and shirts will fit right for me.

I ordered a pair of Wolverine 1000 mile Winchester wingtips from DSW last week and darn it, the things looked like clown shoes on my feet. At least an inch longer and half an inch wider than my Peal’s wingtip dress shoes, both 9W. Just couldn’t do it. Maybe if I wore jeans every day, but just not right with slimmish-legged bidness casual pants.

Aside from that minor flaw, the cognac leather uppers looked great. Or would have on a guy 40 lbs heavier. Those are still there at $179 in some sizes.

As I understand it, their products in the US are significantly different in sizing from the stores located in the Asian countries. I can’t speak to the cut comparison, but frankly the fact that they sell out of their popular items (OCBDs come to mind) so quickly seems to indicate that there’s a large number of guys that their stuff does fit. Just because something doesn’t work for you doesn’t mean that it won’t work for the rest of North America.

As I said “cut and size” it’s a matter of “cut and size.” European brands like Zara and Mango do the same like Uniqlo and upsize (their native M is a USA S). HOWEVER, the cutting is what needs to change. For example, in the US and the UK, you have to cut your M and L for women with larger breasts (UK particularly) and for men with broader shoulders.

As an Asian that is familiar with Asian cutting vs European and North American cutting, all I have to say is read the press releases — the company speaks for themselves (“2D” vs. “3D” cutting). It’s not just a me problem, it’s a problem the company has identified in order to get more market penetration.

Google is your friend. I just put in my experiences to humanize my excitement.

One more comment is that your logic reflects what we in the communication industry call “reporting bias.”

Take gamblers for example — they will always tell you about the times that they win big but not really about the times they lose big. Reporting bias.

Similarly, in hotel and restaurant reviews, you will find that it’s more common to find negative reviews than positive reviews — something that the online review industry wrestles with. In a hotel or restaurant, when you are mistreated, people react super strongly and vocally. However, when they are treated well, people don’t necessarily want to openly advertise that — some of them in-fact want to keep it a secret so that they can reserve that special treatment for themselves in the future!

There are millions of Uniqlo customers where the clothes fit them. That I am not contesting. The people where the clothes do not fit them do not go around bashing the clothing line. They move on and herald the clothing that does fit them (e.g., they are the Zara supporters or H&M supporters). If you actually look at the threads and forums, you will find a small number, myself included, that are vocal about the limitations of Uniqlo. Joe @ Dappered is very vocal about the chopped tails and long sleeves of the jackets.

Honestly idk about this. As a 5’5″ man with 20″ shoulders their stuff actualy fits remarkably well. It’s just a tad snug in the shoulders, and the waist drops down to the 32″ I need very nicely. I don’t own too too many of their items (shirts mostly) but I can’t say I have ever been dissatisfied with one of their cuts

I don’t know the Uniqlo financials, but I was under the impression they were doing quite well in the states. Perhaps that’s a skewed perception based on my involvement in communities like this one. Still, think a lot of people are going to be disappointed if they change their cuts to accommodate the US, because regardless of what terminology they use, that almost certainly means they’re making the cuts more generous. I personally think they should continue to expand into the space they currently occupy, but then again, I suppose the US isn’t exactly a country of slim people (there’s a reason Brooks Brothers remains dominant, and it’s not because of their slim fits… which aren’t even very slim).

Thanks for your opinion. They are going to have slim and normal cuts is what it looks like. These guys, unlike JCP, are smart — they will not sacrifice their foothold in their established market for another group in the market.

Especially since Japan is their home market, they will always have that Asian fit — it will likely be the slim fit in the US.

Anyone familiar with the sizing on the Macy’s Bar III sports coats? Specifically the gingham seersucker. As wild as that thing may look, I think I may want to try it and there are none here locally at any of the Macy’s in my area. I’m thinking of going to Macy’s just to try some other Bar III jackets to see how they work for me in hopes that the gingham will fit the same way. Anyone…..?

I see what you’re getting at, but frankly the chopped tails and long sleeves are not a matter of “2D” vs “3D” – that’s a trend. Given that measurements are relative, it’s easy to see that sleeves appearing to be longer than normal is a sign of a slimmer garment and a shorter body length. It’s also a product of a fashion trend towards very cropped jackets (which personally I dislike) – that’s just the way fashion is going and Uniqlo is playing to that; it’s not a product of not cutting things “2D” vs “3D”.

They already have slim and normal cuts in certain pieces (OCBD for example), so to me it sounds like they’ll be making each of those more generous? I am struggling to find the information about the cut changes. I’m googling Unqilo 2D, Uniqlo 3D and I visited their site and looked around a bit. Any other pointers you can provide so I can read the source?

Thanks for those. After reading, my suspicions seem to be confirmed; from the sounds of things, Uniqlo is going to be producing more generous fits (or “3D”) which really sucks for the slim guys among us. Then again, the quote from Uniqlo specifically mentioned women, so perhaps the sizing on the male side of things will be less affected.

I’m with you on this. The reporting bias (I teach university-level rhetoric, composition, and research skills courses, so I deal with reporting, or, as we call it, frequency bias, a lot when advising students on assessing sources) also comes into play with regard to some of the pushback I’ve read. For many in the menswear world who like Uniqlo’s cuts/fits, it’s being viewed as a result of Americans being fatter, which is certainly true based on obesity rates. However, it’s also true that relative sizes and proportions vary greatly based on geography, with Western Europeans being generally broader and bulkier than many Asians. It’s not just about fat vs. thin. It’s about the proportional differences of a customer base you wish to reach.

For example, I’m not fat, nor am I particularly tall, just a shade over 6′, but I wear a 44 chest and a 36 waist. My legs swim in anything cut fuller than 511s. That said, Uniqlo’s shirts and jackets simply don’t fit me—as you said, they either fit in the shoulders but are too tight through the waist, or the waist is fine but the shoulders are too big. Price-wise, Uniqlo is in the Old Navy ballpark, and Old Navy’s close are enormous and boxy. So if Uniqlo wants to compete in that price point and also reach a customer base that cares about cut/fit/proportion, then this seems like a wise move. The only thing to criticize would be the business plan. However, it’s a little shortsighted, and even slightly mean spirited, to suggest that just because someone doesn’t fit into what I’d call aggressively tapered and cropped clothing that they’re representing the obesity problem. In truth, the people for whom obesity is a severe problem aren’t shopping at Uniqlo anyway.

My ad blocker on mobile blocks your linksynergy links, and they make it hard for me to copy URL’s. Also, you should mention when our clicking through and buying will make you money, or how can we trust your recommendations?

“Our affiliate programs include: Amazon.com, Google Affiliates, Shopstyle/Shopsense, Click Junction, LinkShare, ShareASale, Schott, and Saddleback Leather Company. Brands are constantly dropping in and out of different affiliate programs, so a full list would be almost impossible, but here’s a few brands we have some kind affiliate relationship with: Allen Edmonds, Express, Banana Republic, Gap, Old Navy, J. Crew, Bonobos, John Varvatos, Indochino, Brooks Brothers, Topman, Florsheim, Fossil, Nordstrom, Macys, Lands’ End, Sierra Trading Post, Yoox… the list goes on and on. Does our relationship with these brands influence what goes up on the site? Absolutely not. Have we given poor reviews to products produced by companies and brands we have affiliate relationships with? You bet.

“It’s honestly best to assume that every single last link that points to a retailer has some sort of affiliate connection to us.”

Joe is absolutely right about Bar III being the trimmest of the Macy’s line. I typically wear a 36R (JC, JCF) or S (Gap), but my Bar III suit is a 38R. The 36R pulled something terrible at the top button, while the 38R passed all the suit fit testing criteria. However, I would add that the waist could be suppressed slightly more to fit me perfectly. But I haven’t seen these summer/spring options in person either.

Just got a pair of wolverine 1000mile boots- what’s the consensus on getting a half sole rubber Topy put on to extend the life of the leather sole? And if I were to get one, is it better to put it on when brand new, or should I wear them to break-in the sole and scuff it myself for a few days/weeks before getting the Topy put on?

That helps a bit. I am normally a 40R in JC and JCF. However, recently with the JCF corded cotton suit I sized down to 38R for the jacket just to see if I could avoid a trip to the tailor, as the waist in the 40R seemed extraordinarily wide for JCF. In the store it seemed almost perfect and, to my surprise, the shoulders fit. But time will tell. I feel safe trying a 40R for the Bar III.

wear them until you are sure they fit you and you have decided you are going to keep them, then apply the topy. the 1000 mile soles are somehow even slicker than my AE’s- I would definitely recommend it.

FYI, Macys carries the Barbour Bedale and Liddesdale quilted jackets. I picked up a classic Bedale last month during a promotion after someone on the Threads shared the info… I never would have guessed Macys would carry Barbour jackets! Thought I would share… 25% off and free shipping is a good deal on such great jackets!

It looks like that UNIQLO MEN CORD LANE SLIM FIT JACKET arms are extremely short. I’m tall, skinny, and have slightly longer than average arms which the JCF sportcoats fit pretty well. However, the UNIQLO jacket arms appear to stop a few inches above the wrist? Is that a casual summer style thing?

I picked up the linen herringbone JCF jacket and overall I’m pleased with it. I did notice was that the sleeves and jacket are about an inch longer than the glen plaid linen jacket. Joe, did you experience the same thing?

I find the one full size recommendation to be a little extreme. I’ve tried on the 1K boot and found that while a full size down fit pretty well, going a half size down was more appropriate. Ultimately, I felt the same way when sizing my Iron Rangers, which I bought instead of the 1K, as well. When sizing a full size down, I felt the shoe bent too closely to the tip of toe box. On the Iron Rangers, that meant the shoe bent in front of rather than behind the cap toe, where the boot isn’t designed to bend and which confirmed my suspicion that a full size was too great a drop. Even though the 1K is a plain toe, the bending occurred in the same location relative to the end of the toe box, so I imagine the sizing is similar. I even asked a bootmaker I know about this, and his opinion was that people size down too much because they expect their boots to fit like a dress shoe, but the boot is designed differently and should be sized accordingly. Of course, all of this is secondary to comfort.

The thing is, they fit me comfortably on the inside, and as usual, my left foot, which is slightly larger, was a little snug. No rattling around. I just blamed the last they’re built on. But comment noted, and I’ll try sizing down next time I see them in a physical store.

How good of a deal is the AE strand and park ave from Macy’s right now? Total with tax is $290ea. I am in the market for a pair of business/business casual shoes but I am not in a rush if the price can often go lower.