i have had my 70 in the shop twice and its there now. After replacing the front suspension i took it for front end alignment. The car pulls to the right and they are telling me front end is dead on. Is there a problem with the PS components that can cause this pull? Ram, control valve etc.

Could be the Rt brake caliper is not releasing or brake hose is restricted. Possible tire pull, try swapping front tires to opposite sides. Did the alignment shop give you a printout of before and after specs?

Could be the Rt brake caliper is not releasing or brake hose is restricted. Possible tire pull, try swapping front tires to opposite sides. Did the alignment shop give you a printout of before and after specs?

If it's a brake hose problem it would be with the left front hose being restricted if it pulls to the right. How did you determine that the brake hoses are OK?

i have had my 70 in the shop twice and its there now. After replacing the front suspension i took it for front end alignment. The car pulls to the right and they are telling me front end is dead on. Is there a problem with the PS components that can cause this pull? Ram, control valve etc.

Control valve malfunction can be verified by jacking the front end up and starting the engine. If the wheels turn to the right automatically, suspect a power steering control valve problem.

Just to clarify the car drifts off to the right under normal driving. The shop got the car fixed, they had to bring in an "OLD GUY" to fine tune adjustments. All is Okay now. thanks for the pointers. Shawn

All of the above are correct but in addition to what has been said, rear leaf springed cars can also cause this condition. Leafs can cause an over/understeer condition. For instance, if the center to center distance from the right center line of the axles is different, the car will pull, or more correctly steer to one side or the other, slightly that is.The other more likely scenario here though is that you had been driving a car that has handling characteristics that no longer exist, this is the correct one now, and you need to get used to it.

Frankly, I would question the "right on" specs aspects of the alighnment. It doesn't matter how accutate the "digital alighnment" machine is at all. Set the specs, by trial and error, until it handles where YOU want it to.

In my opinion, MINE, set the toe in to 3/16 to 1/4", after centering the steering wheel; the camber to at least -3/4 degrees (-1 is better), and caster to 2-1/2 degrees ON BOTH SIDES.

With the age of this vehicle, you do need to consider that the chassis itself is twisted in the horizontal plane and it may even be varying as you drive it. Throw away the "book" on the specs. In plain English it is wrong, and 2) throw the freakin' "expert" out of the "freakin" building and tell him to get a life. You have to play with the settings until the car feels right. End of story. Welcome to vintage high performance cars.

...and it is worth mentioning that you may be able to fix this all simply by varying the tire air pressures, unequally, until it feels right. Technically that would be correct since the air pressures should be in proportion to the individual tire loadings which are not equal on this car. Put a truck scale under each tire and weigh each corner and you will start to see the light.

Tire stagger can also make the car pull. Check your od of each of your tires.