Basil Leaf Cafe looks like a quaint cottage. A gingham awning shades fortunate diners who scored an outside table on the white porch. Indoors, the wood-paneled walls and stone-tiled floors serve as a backdrop for the country boutique decor and large windows with delicate lace valances.

The decor seems to make everyone comfortable. On one of my visits, a couple enjoying a romantic candlelit dinner sat on my left, while on my right, a boisterous table of eight sat swigging Chianti and speaking so loudly you'd think they were dining in their own living room. The two parties coexisted and appeared absolutely unaware of each other.

Along with the ambience, the food -- hearty, full-flavored dishes -- keeps everyone happy as well.

Seafood entrees generally fare the best. Basil Leaf's cioppino ($24.95) is top-notch. Not only does the dish include well-prepared cracked crab, mussels, shrimp, clams, sea scallops and salmon, but showcased across the top is a buttery lobster tail and claw, which is melt-in-your-mouth tender. The tomato-based broth is delicious and doesn't overpower the freshness of the seafood.

The lobster ravioli ($19.95) comes with a plate-licking-good cream sauce, juicy shrimp and still-crisp vegetables. The lobster filling stands up well to the pasta and sauce.

Grilled swordfish ($21.95) and an Alaskan halibut special ($23.95) are both flaky and moist. The swordfish is served with angel hair pasta with capers, olives and tomatoes and, instead of being smothered in sauce, is tossed in a light olive oil. The halibut pairs well with a side of sauteed spinach and roasted pepper risotto.

The kitchen's restraint in saucing extends to other dishes as well. The chef's specials come with the option of chicken ($19.95) or veal ($21.95) prepared in different guises. One of the specials, the Milano chicken, pounded thin and simply seasoned, comes paired with a lightly dressed linguine with sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes and asparagus.

However, too much provolone cheese overwhelms an otherwise pleasant combination of veal, prosciutto and baby spinach in another special, the veal saltimbocca ($21.95).

Desserts, however, are a throwback to what might be considered too much country culinary kitsch. The pastry on the apple galette ($5.95) is tough, the apples are undercooked, and the dish isn't sweet enough. The triple-chocolate Long Island mud cake ($5.95), a recommendation from our otherwise flawless server, is dry and flavorless, and not even whipped cream could perk it up, or moisten it.

The only good dessert of all we tried is the Mississippi mud pie ($7.50), a special one night. The decadent mix of chocolate cake, vanilla ice cream, raspberries and Kahlua is delicious.

Overall, however, eating at the Basil Leaf Cafe can be satisfying, with a charming environment, hospitable staff and robust dishes in generous portions. Chances are, too, that you'll leave with a belt that feels a little bit tighter.

Basil Leaf Cafe
501 Hartz
Ave. (at Church), Danville; (925) 831-2828
Open 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit
cards accepted. Free parking lot.
.
Overall: TWO AND A HALF STARS
Food: TWO AND A HALF STARS
Service: TWO AND A HALF STARS
Atmosphere: TWO AND A HALF STARS
Prices: $$$
Noise Rating: THREE BELLS
.
Pluses: Quaint setting serves very fresh seafood dishes and
well-seasoned, robust main entrees. Good service.
Minuses: Desserts need attention.
RATINGS KEY
FOUR STARS: Extraordinary
THREE STARS: Excellent
TWO STARS: Good
ONE STAR: Fair
(box): Poor
.
$ Inexpensive: entrees $10 and under
$$ Moderate:
$11-$17
$$$ Expensive: $18-$24
$$$$ Very Expensive: more than $25
Prices based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories,
the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings.
.
ONE BELL: Pleasantly quiet (under 65 decibels)
TWO BELLS: Can talk easily (65-70)
THREE BELLS: Talking normally gets difficult (70-75)
FOUR BELLS: Can only talk in raised voices (75-80)
BOMB: Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)
.
Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous.
All meals
are paid for by the Chronicle.
Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits.
Ratings are updated continually based on a least one revisit.