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When I was in New York last week, attending a three-day conference on Italian wine, my one major meal outside the hotel was at Morandi, an Italian restaurant at Waverly Place and Seventh Avenue in Greenwich Village. This is a sole venture into Italian food for restaurateur Keith McNally, whose French-inspired outposts, from Odeon in TriBeca to Balthazar in SoHo to Pastis in the Meatpacking District, not only defined casual Gallic dining below 14th Street but helped to establish their neighborhoods as destinations.