exploring people and places one plate at a time

April 09, 2005

Garlic and Sapphires

"Food writers are generally a self-abasing lot, in thrall to master chefs they consider their creative betters and doubtful of the very validity of their profession -- a profession that ''alone among all human vocations,'' the former Gourmet restaurant critic Jay Jacobs once wrote, 'culminates in ignoble defecation.' But Ruth Reichl is different." {snippet of David Kamp's review}