SMOKE RING

Anna Mae

| July/August 1980

Greetings! Well - this is it - Engine Time - Wonderful trips to
the reunions. Most of you know what to expect and yet I have a
feeling it is with new expectation and excitement in your spirit as
you make your way to the next reunion. From your letters, I can
tell it gets in your blood - so on to a lot of happy putt-putts and
glorious smoke rings.

First letter is one of inquiry as JACK THOMPSON, 102 Britannia
Street, Straford, Ontario, Canada N5A 5Z2 asks: 'I understand
hydrogen gas can be used as fuel for gasoline engines. I do not
know the details as to how it is produced, but I understand it
involves passing an electric current through water. I noticed on a
television program they have a lightning monitoring station set up
in the Rocky Mountains. Why not use lightning as a source of
electric current to produce hydrogen gas??' (Answers,
anyone?)

You may be interested in SCOTT THOMPSON'S letter: 'I
hope I can get some help from a lot of GEM readers here in
Illinois. I am in the process of compiling a collection of
photographs of older and antique farm equipment which I hope to put
into book form soon. The concept is that these will be pictures of
the old machinery as it is today, possibly still in use, or at
least shown in a farm-style setting. Photos will be in color,
something one doesn't see too often.

So if you would like to have your machinery included in this
collection, please contact me as soon as possible. I'd like to
hear from owners of tractors, steam engines, horse drawn
implements, etc. etc. Preferably in the Illinois or eastern Iowa
area. That's Scott Thompson, 1227 Royal Avenue, Pekin, Illinois
61554. (309) 347-2742.

I would also like to know what year it was built, what the
original color is and I would like to know how the carb gets hooked
to the gas tank because the lines have been removed. Also are there
a lot of these engines around?

The engine is ignitor fired and battery ignition. It is a hopper
cooled engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.'

Take notice of VERNE KINDSCHI's letter - it may be just what
you're looking for as a program for your organization:
'Here's an idea for engine clubs that are looking for
entertainment at their meetings. My good friend, David Edgington of
England, has sent to me a very interesting 33 slide presentation
along with a 30 minute cassette sound track explaining the
slides.

David is probably the foremost authority on old gas engines in
England, and shares his information of English engines in this
slide show.

Any club or organization who has a 35mm slide projector, and a
cassette tape player would enjoy seeing them.

David has given me permission to share these. I only ask that
you send me $1.00 to cover the postage, and to return them promptly
when you are done with them, so as many organizations as possible
can be scheduled to use these.

Thanks in advance for using this information-I feel this is a
service to other organizations, and is not a profit making thing
for me-I'm only trying to cover costs.'

CLARENCE L. CRISWELL, John Deere Tractor Museum, P.O. Box 709,
Lamar, South Carolina 29069 needs help!! 'I am trying to locate
a Mr. Dudley Duboll. He is a reader of Gas Engine Magazine and has
a tractor to list in our serial number search and I need to contact
him. His address is lost but he is in the Northeastern part of the
United States. I would appreciate it very much if you would furnish
his address to us.'

(We do not have Mr. Duboll as a subscriber, but he must be
reading one of our subscriber's magazines, so please fellas, if
you know Dudley, please have him get in touch with Clarence.)

This letter comes from ROBERT L. WILLIS, 117 Jacksonville
Circle, Pearlington, Mississippi 39572: 'I would like to
correspond with owners of 6-8 HP Waterloo Boy gas engines. The one
I have I bought from Robert Mayeux of Sulpher, Louisiana. For years
it was used to operate a hay press. The nameplate is unusual in
that it reads-Waterloo Boy Gasoline Engine, No. 73415, HP - (no
markings), Waterloo Gasoline Co., Waterloo, Iowa patented August 7,
1900; Dec. 3, 1901; October 7, 1902, August 6, 1907. Other patents
pending, sold by Parlin and Orendorft Plow Co., General Agents,
Kansas City, Denver, Oklahoma City.

I need to know the correct color, where and what size was the
gas tank, and more. All help appreciated!

It is good to be a member of the Bayou Old Time Engine and Power
Assn. For a time after we left Michigan, I was afraid we had left
the finer things in life behind-gas engines.'

Some helpful data comes from LEONARD SPOELMAN, 3221 Brookshire
SE, Grand Rapids, Michigan 49508. 'First, some information on
common manufacturers. It is my understanding that the early Economy
engines sold by Sears were made at Sparta, Michigan. Then later,
Economy engines were made by Hercules at Evansville, Indiana.
Distinctive differences in the castings were given in GEM
(Sept.-Oct. 1974, page 11). Basic ones to spot easily are 1. water
hopper opening is square on Economy and oval on Hercules. 2.
Corners on water hopper are quite sharp on Economy and more rounded
on Hercules. Arco spray rigs used Hercules built engines as did
Jaegers cement mixers. Later Jaeger engines were Stovers.

Alamo engines of Hillsdale, Michigan were sold under quite a few
other names. Some of the ones I know of are-Empire Cream Separator,
Bloomfield, N.J., Rock Island, Moody, Moline Plow Co. and Flying
Dutchman Plow Co. Other manufacturers selling under different names
are Nelson Brothers, Saginaw, Michigan as Jumbo etc. and Associated
Manufacturers, Waterloo, Iowa - Associated, United etc.

Now, a plea to be careful when trying to turn an engine over,
especially one belonging to someone else. I have energetic young
boys and know how hard it is to resist the temptation to turn the
flywheels. If all parts of the engine are not free, damage can
result very quickly. I'm right now trying to undo the damage
inflicted by some strong arm helper.

This particular problem relates to John Deere gas engine
magnetos. The armature clearance is very small and the possibility
of rust tightening up the armature is great. The armature itself is
an assembly consisting of shafts bolted to either end of the rotor
through a pot metal flange. One healthy pull on the flywheels with
the rotor stuck fast and the flange is broken. Engine will now turn
over nicely, but upon examination, one will see that the magneto
shaft is not turning. Now don't despair and throw it all away.
Solution is to repair the armature by making a new flange, a good
lathe project for someone. I know someone will benefit from this as
it is the third time I have run into the problem.'

Chatting about some of his engines, we received this letter from
SYDNEY NORTHRUP, RFD 1, Prescott Road, Brentwood, Exeter, New
Hampshire 03833: 'I read your column so much it seems as though
I should know you. (I know what you mean as so many names become
very familiar to me through the years.)

I have just given an engine to each of my grandsons, ages 13 and
16 years. One engine has a faded decal which looks like Empire. The
flywheels are the same as 1? HP Stovers, except no Stover name on
them. 6 - 3?' holes in flywheels. Instead of Wico mag they have
Webster mag, 2 HP, 550 speed on the brass slats No. KA 151335,
original color??

Have a Bosch wagon, a Fairbanks Z. It has a trip arm activated
by a roll on the timing gear. Also two short centering springs like
a Webster mag. I cleaned it inside and everything seems to be O.K.
but can hardly feel the spark. It only jumps about 3?' or less.
Any information on pepping it up would be appreciated.

Next, I have a 2 cylinder opposed, 2 cycle Pormo (Trademark)
air-cooled, made by Areothrust Engine Co., La Porte, Indiana. It
was made for the Navy in WW I to run an electric generator which is
not with it. I have been told they were also used on airboats.

It has a 14' flywheel with cast blades in side for a fan.
The generator was run direct from the end of the shaft but there is
also a 3?' pulley about 4' wide. Bearings are oiled from
above. Oil tank is section of gas tank. Any help on this engine
would be appreciated.'

TOM FORSTROM, 2315 Avenue E., Kearney, Nebraska 68847 sends
this: 'After several years of reading and enjoying this great
magazine, I'm seeking help from other loyal readers. I am
restoring an Emerson-Brantingham type N, 800 RPM. Any and all
information will be greatly appreciated, but especially need help
with the wiring and cooling system, and year of
manufacture.'

DOUG STICKNEY, 1265 Cortez, Dubuque, Iowa 52001 is waiting to
hear from anyone that can help him: 'A colleague of mine who
happens to subscribe to The Gas Engine Magazine called my attention
to references therein concerning a Stickney Engine Company. I am
trying to collect geneologic data on the progress of the Stickney
family in this country. Any information which you could provide on
the Stickney Engine Company and its origin would be
appreciated.

Is the company now defunct? Who originated the company and where
was it located? Can parts, catalogs, owner's manuals or other
corporate publications still be obtained? (Doug, you might want to
run an ad in our classified Want Ad section for all these items-you
may be surprised and get quite a few answers.)

If any of this information is available, I would greatly
appreciate hearing from the readers. My phone number is
319-583-3808.'

Here comes a letter from a fellow enthusiast as H. L. RITTER,
Route 5, Box 127, Fulton, New York 13069 writes: 'Hi
Engin-ears! Well it is getting closer to spring. I
haven't done much this past winter except try to keep warm.
Have had these 5 Briggs Stratton engines a number of years and
finally got around to starting them after doing some work on them.
They are Models A, AP, PB and 2 Bs. Below are instructions for
testing coil and condenser on small engines using flywheel type
magneto.'

Magneto - Repair as follows:

(a) Points: If points are worn or pitted,
new ones should be installed. When replacing them, make certain the
fiber insulating plates and washers are placed in exactly the same
position to insulate the points from the armature plate. Wipe each
part to remove all dirt and grease.

(b) Coil, condenser and magnet: A weak
coil and magnet is not common. The condenser is either good or
bad-it is never weak. A coil might, in a few cases, be weak, but
not completely dead. The possibility of a weak or dead magnet is
very remote.

(c) Test coil and condenser by means of a
Hot-Shot battery. Place a piece of paper or insulating material
between points. Connect wire from positive terminal of Hot-Shot
battery to stationary breaker arm. Hold the high tension cable
?' from edge of armature plate and rub the wire from the other
terminal of battery lightly across the rocker arm. If no spark
results after testing as outlined, disconnect the condenser wire
from breaker and repeat procedure. If no spark results with the
condenser disconnected and the cable is making good connection with
the coil, it is evident that the coil is bad. If, however, a good
spark now shows, it proves that the condenser is bad and the coil
is O.K.

(d) Unscrew the high tension wire from
the armature plate and examine the bakelite plug No. 12751. If it
is cracked, the spark will short through to the armature plate.
Also check the cable. If it is worn or broken, a new No. 12112
should be installed.

A letter of appreciation and thanks comes from NORMAN OSNES,
Valentine, Nebraska 69201: 'Dear Anna Mae and Engine Friends -
Since I wrote last Jan.-Feb. '79,1 can say the Lord has truly
been good to me in my collecting. And I received many letters from
the GEM readers. I want to say thanks again to all of them. And
thanks to many of them, I have now gotten over half of my
Bicentennial license plates. I have even started collecting
Nebraska County plates. The GEM is truly a
gem-keep up the good work!

In case anyone is wondering, thanks to Mr. Norman Hockemeier who
tells me my engine is a Neward about a 2? HP. It was sold by
Montgomery Ward, so I am told, and the main casting may have been
made by Waterloo. Maybe someone out there can tell me more about
this and how many were made. I still would like to hear from you
all and how many are still around etc. Please write!

I also got hold of several engines, plus a JD standard tread GP
tractor plus a pair of steel rears. I'm hoping to have my
tractor going by the time the fall shows start.

One of the engines I need help on is a Woolery, model A, #1766,5
HP, 2 cycle engine. I have it cleaned up, but cannot seem to get it
to fire more than a pop or two. I think it is in the carburetor
adjustment etc. and then that cylinder shaped valve or whatever it
is on top just behind the water hopper. I'm sure someone out in
Engine Land can help and I sure will appreciate it.

I also would like to know if there is supposed to be a shield
over the open crank of a Lawson Frost King Jr. engine. There are a
couple cap screws down below the two main bearings that I am
wondering what is the purpose of them.

One last question and that is to you Anna Mae-I am sure you
welcome pictures and stories, but I was wondering if the pictures
should be black and white or can they be in color? This maybe of
help to others, too. (The pictures come out much better when they
are black and white, but we do also accept color pictures.)

I do like the color covers and keep up the good work on the
magazine. It sure is helpful to the engine lovers.'

LOWELL F. WOOD, 101 West 106th Street, Minneapolis, Minnesota
55437 has a very good New Way air-cooled, upright, 5 HP single
flywheel, harvester type engine fully restored but no information
on color, trim and lettering. He has been at several shows, but no
one agrees on the painting. If you have any information, Lowell
will be glad to hear from you.

Seeking information is RAYMOND SLEISTER, Box 391, Manilla, Iowa
51454 as he says: 'I would like to know if you can tell me of a
model manufacturer that makes Fordson tractors of the late teens or
early 20s. Also 1948-C Allis Chalmers and also Red River Special
threshers.'

FLOYD MATHES, 4238 East Avenue, Livermore, California 94550
wants a question answered: 'I have a Peerless, vertical
gasoline engine marketed by Baker Hamilton and I am desperately
trying to find out when it was made but no success. Can you help
me? I understand that there is an organization called the
'Peerless Club' and if that is true I don't know their
address. I am a member of the Early Day Gasoline and Tractor Assn.
Branch 13, Inc. and am presently serving as vice president of the
organization.

Thank you so much for any help you may give me.'

Next communication comes from CRAIG SOLOMONSON, Route 3, Box
601, Cambridge, Minnesota 55008: 'After 15 years of enjoying
antique cars and occasionally admiring gas engines, I caught the
gas engine fever. A friend told me the whereabouts of some gas
engines on Christmas Eve and on New Year's Day I hauled them
home.

Since that time I have sent for all the books I could find
dealing with the engines I have. So now, I have many questions
answered except for the same ones I always see others asking in
your magazine-date of manufacture and proper colors. Perhaps some
readers could help me out. The engines I have are: Associated 3/4
HP, SN #1884; Associated Chore Boy 1-3/4 HP, SN #315400; Associated
Hired Man 2-1/4 HP, SN #123194; Cushman (Model C) Upright 4 HP, SN
#27130; Jumbo (Model P) 1-1/2 HP, SN #8009.

I certainly enjoy your magazine and especially the Smoke Rings
column which I am sure gives all restorers the much needed source
of information to aid in their projects.'

D. G. BAGNELL, 8 Butler Street, Gympie 4570 Queensland,
Australia writes: 'A gentleman in Iowa has suggested I contact
you in my search for information on my Anderson engine. I have
enclosed a photo of the engine and details are: Anderson Engine
Company, Chicago, U.S.A. No. 1721, HP 4, thought to be a 1919
model, marine. WANTED: some history of this firm and details of
type of magneto used.

JIM McCRAKEN, Box 35, Craw-fordsville, Oregon 97336 is restoring
a 6 HP Ellis 2 cycle engine and he needs to know the colors;
presently the flywheels appear dark red and the rest a dark green.
Also need some information on how exhaust system looks. Some
pictures from the front show exhaust end of muffler sticking up?
Did the exhaust enter the bottom of the muffler?

Many thanks for your help and keep up the terrific magazine, I
enjoy it very much.' (Thanks Jim.)

A letter comes from W. C. HICKLIN, 3630 Castlebury Drive,
Chester, Virginia 23821: 'I would like to say thank you to all
the readers who answered my last call for advice and information.
Once again I need information on another engine I have. I need
parts list, and colors for a single cylinder LeRoi that is marked
Model FHPP3, size 3? x 4?, serial number 109923. What was the date
of manufacture?

Here is an interesting letter and I'm sure many of you folks
will be interested in it. It comes from CLYDE BERKSHIRE, Berkshire
Emplement Co., Inc., US 35 N. Box 237, Royal Center, Indiana 46978:
'I enjoy Smoke Rings and would like to say I have worked in the
parts department and ownership of an I.H. dealership and have parts
books and owner's manuals for all tractors and gas engines back
to and including Titan and Moguls, with listings of years by serial
numbers as built by year.

If anyone in Gas Engine Land wants years of when I.H. tractors
were built, I will gladly pass the information along.

Also my family has the cast iron bug. We have some 20 odd
tractors and 15 some odd old I.N. trucks from 1910 I.H. auto buggy
up to 1952.

Anyone that wants I.H. information and owner's manuals may
contact us. We would be glad to exchange information. We belong to
the Northern Indiana Power of the Past Inc. - Hope to see some of
you bugs there at the show.' (This is not an ad-the way Clyde
writes, I am assuming he would lend you the manuals, etc.)

From another member of the Gas Engine Family comes this letter
from ED F. EDWARDS, P.O. Box 197, Big Bend, California 96011:
'I just wanted to thank all the collectors for all the help
that they gave me on my Tuthill Water Motor, which was pictured in
Smoke Rings in March-April 1980 issue. I have received several
letters of help on how to figure the (head) necessary to keep the
water motor as well as approximately amount of wattage that could
be delivered. Also, I received info on the construction of various
dams to store water for use with the water motor, etc.

You have a great magazine and it is obvious that other fellow
collectors try to help each other whenever they can. It seems that
the number of collectors keeps growing and growing, and with this
more good ideas on various techniques of restoring the old gas
engines.

One very helpful idea that was given to me by Clyde Sherman of
Washington is on the removal of the stubborn crankshaft-flywheel
keys. His suggestion was a very logical one and which works very
well. You take about a 2? foot length of steel rod ?' to
5/8' diameter and thread one end about 1?'. Then you take a
piece of (round stock) steel about 3' to 4' diameter by
6' long and drill a hole completely through the center of it
about 1/8' larger in diameter than the length of ?' or
5/8' steel rod (whichever you use). Then you lay the NOW
threaded end of the steel rod parallel to, and on top of the
crankshaft directly next to the flywheel key to be removed and weld
the steel rod to the flywheel key, being careful not to weld to
either the flywheel or the crankshaft and make sure it is a good
solid weld. Then you simply slide the 3' or 4' diameter by
6' long solid (round stock) onto the ?' or 5/8' rod and
screw two nuts on the end that you threaded and you have a simple
slide hammer.

Then, of course, you slide the 3' x 6' hammer down the
rod against the two nuts on the outer end several times and the key
slides right out, because you are pulling it out directly, the way
it was meant to come out-straight. This works a lot better than
trying to punch it out by sticking a bar or large screw driver,
etc. through the spokes of the flywheel at an angle and trying to
pound on it from inside (between) the flywheels, or any other
method. Other collectors have probably tried this or something
similar to it, but I thought it was worth describing to save a lot
of time.

The only disadvantage of this method is that if you are welding
to hot, the flywheel key might get partially melted and you might
have to use a new key for the best appearance, whereas if you turn
the heat down a little on your arc welder, you won't melt the
key, just build up a portion of weld which, if carefully ground
off, your original key will be just about as good as new to use
again. Try it, it WORKS!!'

Some of you out there in Gas Engine Land are probably anxiously
waiting to help your fellow gas buffs-so maybe you will want to
write to FLOYD MATHES 4238 East Avenue, Livermore, California 94550
with an answer: 'I subscribe to the Gas Engine Magazine and I
am very pleased with it. You are all to be commended.

I have a request to make and don't know who else to turn
to-I am trying to locate information as to the date of manufacture
of my Peerless gasoline engine. Can you help me, in any way? I
understand that somewhere there is an organization called 'The
Peerless Club.' That is all I have. Can you help me?

A fairly new member writes: 'This is only the third issue
I've received, being very new to chuggers and I find your
magazine to be the Bible.

Can anyone help me? I've got a 1? HP 500 RPM, SN #410288
Fairbanks Morse Z missing a mag. The base is 2?' x 1?'
center to center. Can anyone tell me what kind of mag (make) I
should get-is it gear driven or what? Any help will be
appreciated.' (If you can help, write BOB STEGMAN, Box 423,
Angels Camp, California 95222.)

PHILIP A. VAZZANA, 242 S. Poplar Street, Greenville, Mississippi
38701, phone 601-332-0788 needs some information about the Fairmont
Railroad engines starting: 'I don't believe I have ever
seen any information in the magazine on them,' states Philip.
(They aren't quite what our hobby magazine is about Phil, but
sometimes we do put something in about railroad engines, so maybe
someone could answer you.)

From one of the G.E.M. Family, this: 'I was looking through
some of my old book collection and came across an ad about a bean
and pea thresher. This little thresher was manufactured by the
American Bean & Pea Thresher American Grain Separator Co.,
Minneapolis, Minnesota U.S.A.

Can you run an inquiry in Smoke Rings to see if any of these
machines are still in existence? A little machine of this type
would be nice to take to the shows as they are small.' (Any
answers fellows?) No. 1 picture is the boiler from No. 1118, 12 HP
Huber, in bad condition. No. 2 picture is how it looked after I
rebuilt it. It is under 100 lbs. of steam at this time.'

This letter came from A. L. HEILAND, 15323C.R.25A, Anna, Ohio
45302.

Two questions to be answered from KEITH COATES, 8448 Chase
Drive, Arvada, Colorado 80003: 'The first problem is with an
air-cooled Sattley engine that was a basket case when I located it.
The only identification I can come up with is the serial number
which is C-85096. I would appreciate hearing from collectors that
have one of these engines or some history on one of this type. So
far Montgomery Ward have not been able to help me.

The second request is for the original paint color on a
McCormick-Deering (International) Model LA 1?-2? HP made in 1935.
It appears to be a grey-green with a red flywheel and oil bath air
cleaner.

Thank you very much and I really enjoy the Gas Engine
Magazine.'

JOHN C. GRAHAM, 67145 Graham Road, St. Clairsville, Ohio 43950
writes: 'My son received his first GEM in November 79. We both
enjoy it very much.

We came across an odd ball engine in January of this year. It is
a 2 cycle upright with about 20 gallon galvanized cooling tank.
Flywheels are 20' x 2' spoked. The name Arthur Colton Co. -
Detroit, Michigan is cast into both side rails of base. Serial #145
stamped in the crankcase cover.

Can anyone out there give us any information at all? Year
manufactured, kind of coil, original color? Any information would
really be appreciated. Thank you.'

A good-sized letter comes from EDWARD LOWELL, Box 501, Americus,
Georgia 31709: 'Well, I guess this is the first writing
I've done and after 20 years of fooling with these old engines,
I'd like to see if I can spark a little interest for our area
of the country. I'm also very pleased to see that there is some
real backing behind our magazine as it seems to have some religious
background- without God's help, would any of us have anything?
Of course not, not even life itself. God bless you all.

I would like the letter to read as follows: Greetings from
Plains, Georgia. Even a small place like this has a big interest in
old engines and other related items. We here, are interested in
getting others to take an interest in engines and would like to
think that sometime in the not too distant future, we may be able
to have a show in this area. It has been said several times that
the Southeast is weak in shows. Seeing as how we are only 5 miles
from President Carter's home town and that an awful lot of
people visit Plains, it makes sense that it may be a convenient
location. How about some comments from the readers?

We love engine collecting and we rebuild and restore engines.
Lately we have been concentrating mainly on engines made by
International and we have twenty or so fine ones- Moguls, Titans,
Famous, etc., but we collect all types.

One of the most exciting phases of the hobby to me is buying,
selling and trading. In the last several shows we've attended,
we have always brought back some new iron to play with. Sometimes
it proves to be good and sometimes bad, but nevertheless, we learn
something at the shows and always come home happy.

For some unknown reason the bigger shows frown on us folks
buying and selling. Why is this? A lot of folks go to these shows
hoping to find an old engine to project with and to keep themselves
from burning up all that $1.25 gas hunting engines out in the
sticks that are most likely not even there.

If we are able to hold a show here some day, it will be for
everyone, especially for those newcomers wanting to buy or trade
engines. We will not charge someone to come here and enjoy his
hobby. By the same token due to somewhat limited space, we will not
be able to have any unrelated to engines types of items.

We really look forward to G.E.M. and only wish it were a monthly
magazine. There is no limit to the good service it provides. I only
hope that we may all be able to get together and enjoy our hobby.
It occupies all of our free time here and with our 75 or 80
engines, it is a fulltime job keeping them all going. We are
currently restoring two Tom Thumbs, the air-cooled and water-cooled
- next will be the 6 HP IHC tray-cooled portable. Please send
comments, good or bad to above address. Phone number is
912-924-1744. Thank you!'

Keep your pencils sharpened, fellas, as here comes another
letter with questions: From RICHARD D. CURTIS, 302 N. Ridge Street,
Cambridge, Illinois 61238: 'I received many helpful letters on
dating my Case tractors and preserving old tires. After I have
tried the suggestions, I will let you know what is the most
satisfactory method.

Now I would like information on my Novo 4 cylinder engine, Model
AF 3? x 5, serial number L9029. It has a casting date of 1927 on
the head. It has heavy flywheels on both ends and a drive pinion on
the rear which drove bull gears for the two winches of the Novo
outfit it was mounted on. It is overhead valve with exposed push
rods and rocker arms. Is there any connection between Novo Engine
Co. and United Air Cleaner Division, Novo Industrial Corp.,
Chicago, Illinois? Also is there any connection with United
Engines? Also, is this part of the company known as Allis Chalmers
today?

My outfit was used to pull slip forms for paving. Tom Hobbie at
New Westminster, British Columbia wrote and said he has one that
lifted fishnets from boats on the Fraser River. What other uses
were these engines put to?

I'm looking forward to some answers from some of the old
pros.'

W. E. NEAL, 613 8th Avenue, Charles City, Iowa 50616 writes:
'I enjoy your magazine a lot. The article by D. McVittie about
cockshutt tractors was very interesting to me. The reason the
independent P.T.O. was similar to Oliver was Oliver built tractors
for Cockshutt. The only difference was they were painted red and
carried the Cockshutt name. My serial number book shows the serial
number for Oliver & Cockshutt-thought they might be interesting
to some people. Oliver also built tractor for Massey Harris at one
time. Massey Harris big tractor that had the G.M.C. diesel engine
was a real Oliver.

Every so often you have someone wanting parts for a Madison-Kipp
lubricator. They are still building them and you can get parts or a
complete lubricator. Their address is Madison-Kipp Corp., 201
Waubesa Street, Madison, Wisconsin 53704. This could be of a lot of
help to your readers, if you would mention this.' (There maybe
some of you folks who were waiting to know about this item.)

In closing I'd like to wish you all a happy summer of many
continuing shows and reunions. And remember Footprints in the sands
of time were not made by sitting down. The really happy man is the
one who can enjoy the scenery when he has to take a detour. Death
is not extinguishing the light; it is putting out the lamp because
dawn has come.

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