Independent Acoustics and Noise Control Expertise

DIY Domestic Wall Soundproofing

In domestic situations you will generally be wanting to soundproof either a brick/block wall or a stud partition wall.

NEW BUILD STUD PARTITIONS

For stud partitions that are new build use acoustic mineral wool in the stud cavity.
For even better performance use the 2FT80-B quilt in the cavity space which is far superior to mineral wool as it has a layer of acoustic barrier sheet laminated in the middle of the product.
Hang at least one side on resilient bars
and use at least one layer (two is much better) of T50 or VL-65 acoustic membrane in-between the plasterboard sheets.
Isolate the perimeter of the framework with the 10mm thick neoprene tape. Take care to seal the perimeter and joints and
maintain resilient isolation from the framework using our neoprene strips. Make the stud cavity as deep as possible or better still use independant
frames for each side of the wall. Offset the second layer of plasterboard to reinforce the seams in the first (see diagram).

This is for guidance only. If you are unsure about your DIY skills it may be better to contact an experienced builder.

EXISTING STUDWALLSIf you have a studwall already and can afford to loose extra space then up then look at our
CAD20-WP panels which glue onto the existing plasterboard to isolate the further
2 layers of plasterboard which should be glued on top of the CAD20-WP. If space is at a premium lesser improvements
can be obtained by sticking two layers of either T50 or VL-65 acoustic membrane to the plasterboard before screwing a thick sheet of
plasterboard over to finish.

BRICK PARTY WALLSFor brick party walls you can also use CAD20-WP panels with additional plasterboard.
These take up only 50mm of space although the framed approach (above) is a better option if you can afford
to loose more space (4-6 inches depending on batten/stud depth). The latter option should include either T50 or VL-65 acoustic membrane in between the two sheets of plasterboard
all hung on resilient bars. The cavity space should be as deep as possible and acoustic mineral wool should be included
in the cavity. Even better performance can be achieved by bonding and fixing for our high performance 2FT80-B Quilt. to the wall first which can also be used to isolate the framework.
This material is very heavy and requires glue and rosette fixings. If using the 2FT80-B first you dont need to put the neoprene between the battens and the wall as the 2FT80-B isolates
them. Ideally rather than fix the battens through the 2FT80-B into the wall build the frame 20mm or more away from the wall but with the head and sole plates still isolated by lapping the 2FT80-B across the floor and across the ceiling first.
A cross section side elevation is detailed below:

PLEASE NOTE:

The results you will get when doing this will depend on workmanship, materials used, methods used but improvements can sometimes be limited by 'flanking noise'.
This phenomenon is where a percentage of the noise may not only be transmitted directly through the wall but also via adjacent walls connecting the party wall or even through floor / ceiling slabs connected to the party wall and this can vary from one project to another. It often depends on the existing structure.
For example if the building is in-situ concrete where the junctions are stongly coupled (as below) then treating the ceiling and floor may be required:

Also 'boss plaster' where the plaster has lost its strength and adhesive bond to the wall can present weak spots for sound transmission and be the cause of poor acoustic performance and if the plaster sounds hollow when the surface is tapped you should
consider getting the walls re-plastered as this can improve things greatly.

Back to back or interlocking flues and fireplaces, recesses for kitchen ranges, recessed cupboards especially when back to back can also cause sound transmission problems.

Similarly the diagrams below show how in a worse case scenario, if your separating wall was built incorrectly, treating the party wall with soundproofing would have very little effect as the
sound will simply be transmitted in the space where the wall should have been butted and tied into the existing blockwork. In this case you would have to treat both party wall and the adjacent walls to notice
an improvement.