Click Engineered Installation Guidelines

Click Engineered Installation Guidelines

PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALLATION. IMPROPER INSTALLATION WILL VOID WARRANTY.
STOP: BAMBOO IS A NATURAL PRODUCT AND COLORS CAN VARY FROM CARTON TO CARTON SO ALWAYS WORK FROM A MINIMUM OF 3 TO 5 CARTONS

Always check panels for defects such as chips and color or sheen differences under good light conditions. Also check that the channel is clean and free of debris.

For best color match when using panels from three or more packages, check to be sure all the patterns are the same. Be sure to use flooring out of more than one box.

Flooring MUST be allowed to acclimate to the environment of the installation area. Boxes should be opened on one end to allow the proper acclimation. You must allow a minimum of 5 days of acclimation. The temperature should be approximately 62-73° F (17-23° C) with a relative humidity of 35-60 percent. Humidity should never be allowed to drop below 30 percent as this may cause gapping. Diagram 1.

If existing baseboard moldings are difficult to remove, they may be left in place. Quarter round molding is all that is needed to cover the expansion space between flooring and baseboard.

If installing over a crawlspace or on a concrete floor, you must also install a 6 mil (or thicker) polyethylene vapor barrier. Tape vapor barrier together with a moisture proof tape

SUITABLE TYPES OF SUBFLOORS AND FLOOR PREPARATION

The underfloor or subfloor must be thoroughly even, dry, clean and solid. Carpet staples or glue residue must be removed and floor must be clean to ensure proper installation.

To check for evenness, hammer a nail into the center of the floor. Tie a string to the nail and push the knot against the floor. Pull the string tight to the farthest comer of the room and examine the floor at eye level for any gaps between the string and floor. Move the string around the perimeter of the room noting any gaps larger than 1/8/” (3mm). Any floor unevenness of more than 1/8” (3mm) per 3’ (1 meter) must be sanded down or filled in with an appropriate filler.

Floors must be carefully checked for moisture problems. Do this by checking the moisture in the floor and the moisture in the sub floor with a moisture meter (mini-Ligno E/D moisture meter) Recommended. Any moisture problems need to be solved before installation. The moisture content should not vary more than 2% from the Floor and the Sub floor at time of installation. New concrete needs to cure for at least 60 days before installation.

THIS PRODUCT IS NOT SUITABLE FOR DAMP ROOMS SUCH AS BATHROOMS, SAUNAS, AND ROOMS WITH DAMP CONCRETE, ROOMS WITH FLOOR DRAINS OR ROOMS THAT COULD POTENTIALLY FLOOD.

BASIC INSTALLATION

For installation on concrete floors or any floors over a crawl space a vapor barrier MUST be laid down first. Use 6 mil poly. Run the poly 2” (5cm) up walls and overlap seams 18” (45cm). Tape seams.

You will need to remove the tongue, on the long side of the panels that face the wall, from the appropriate amount of panels for your first row. This is to ensure that the decorative surface of the flooring is well under the finished trim when installed. Use a utility knife to score through the tongue several times until it easily snaps off. Diagram 3.

Start in a corner by placing the first panel with its trimmed side facing the wall. Use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion space of 5/16”-3/8” (8-12mm) between the wall and the flooring. Diagram 4.

REMEMBER THAT THIS PRODUCT NEEDS ROOM TO EXPAND AND CONTRACT. AT NO POINT SHOULD YOU ATTACH THE FLOOR TO ANY SURFACE OR PLACE ANY EXTREMLY HEAVY OBJECTS SUCH AS CABINETS, ISLANDS, FIREPLACES, GRAND PIANOS, AND POOL TABLES ON THE FLOOR AFTER INSTALLATION OF THE FLOOR IS COMPLETE.

To attach your second panel, lower and lock the end tongue of the second panel into the end groove of the first panel. Line up edges carefully. The panels should be flat to the floor. Diagram 5.

Continue connecting the first row until you reach the last full panel. Fit the last panel by rotating the panel 180° with the pattern side upward, place beside row, mark and then saw off excess. Attach as described above. Diagram 6.

When using a handsaw cut on the decorative surface. If you are using a jig or circular saw, cut with the decorative side down to avoid chipping.

Begin the next row with the off cut piece from the previous row to stagger the pattern. Pieces should be a minimum of 10” (20cm) long and joint offset should be at least 16” (40cm). Diagram 7.

To start your second row, tilt and push the side tongue of the panel into the side groove of the very first panel at about 30°. When lowered, the plank will click into place. Diagram 8.

Attach the second panel of the new row first on the long side. Tilt and push this panel as close as possible to the previous row at 30°. Make sure edges are lined up. Lower panel to the floor, locking the end tongue into the end grove of the first panel. Continue laying remaining panels in this manner. Diagram 9.

To fit the last row, lay a panel on top of the previous row. With the tongue to the wall, lay another panel upside down on the one to be measured and use it as a ruler. Don’t forget to allow room for spacers. Cut the panel and attach into position. (Tip after cutting the final row lengthwise, glue the short ends with a premium wood flooring T&G adhesive.) Diagram 10.

Door frames and heating vents also require expansion room. First cut the panel to the correct length. Then place the cut panel next to its actual position and use a ruler to measure the areas to be cut out and mark them. Cut out the marked points allowing the necessary expansion distance on each side. Diagram 11.

You can trim door frames by turning a panel upside down and using a handsaw to cut away the necessary height so that panels slide easily under the frames. Diagram 12.

FINISHING MOLDING

Overlap Reducer molding is used to finish flooring when the adjoining surface is lower than the flooring panel or when the flooring meets carpet. Position the U track 1/4” (7mm) between each edge of the flooring. Screw, nail or glue down the track directly to the sub-floor and then insert the reducing strip into the track.

T-molding must be used in all doorways where the floor is going into other rooms; it also must be used in a hall if the run of the floor is greater than 23’. It is used to finish flooring when two level surfaces meet in doorways or for expansion joints. Install same as above. If your room is more than 23’ (7m) wide you will need to install a T-Mold to allow for expansion and contraction.

Overlap Stair nose molding is used to finish flooring on landings or stair edges. Moldings need to be glued and screwed down to the sub-floor for safety and stability. Color fill should be used to cover counter sunk screws.

To finish the perimeter of the room install quarter round molding using finishing nails. Quarter round molding is nailed directly into the baseboard.

An End Cap is used for butting up to exterior doors such as sliders along with front and back doors. Also a End cap is used to but Carpet up to it to make a nice transition from Bamboo to Carpet.

MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING

Temperature must be approximately 62-73° F (17-23° C) with a relative humidity of 35-60 percent. Humidity should never be allowed to drop below 30% as this may cause gapping.
Do not use a wet spray micro fiber mop. Never use wax, polish, abrasive cleaners or scouring agents as they may dull or distort the finish.

Use a damp cloth or mop to clean up any dirt and footprints but avoid using excessive moisture. Too much moisture can cause warping which is not covered under warranty. All spills should be cleaned up immediately.

High heels can damage floors. Use protective pads under furniture. USE CAUTION: Planks are slippery when wet.

It’s a good idea to save a few panels in case of accidental damage. Panels can be replaced or repaired by flooring professional.