When I give a seminar, the
most popular questions have to do with altering the pattern. It
is very discouraging when someone spends the time and money on
making a garment and it doesnt fit.

Not only is the body of the
garment important, but so are the sleeves. Sleeves can be short,
long, cuffed, straight, etc. On the pattern, you must measure the
distance from the top of the sleeve to the elbow. This
measurement should match yours. If it doesnt, you need to
lengthen or shorten it ABOVE the elbow. Next, measure the sleeve
length (shoulder to wrist). If the sleeve has a cuff, take your
measurement by holding the tape measure at the shoulder, around
the bent elbow to the wrist. If the sleeve is straight, measure
from the shoulder to the wrist, with the arm straight. Dont
ignore 1/2 or 1/4 inch changes. They can make a difference.

The illustrations show the alteration involved when
the arm is full. When the figure has a full upper arm, more
fullness is needed at the top of the sleeve (without enlarging
the wrist or armhole). So many people are tempted to add to the
underarm seams, but that does no good at all. My favorite saying
is, "Go the where the problem is." In this case, it is
the upper arm area. To increase the sleeve without increasing the
armhole, slash the length of the sleeve through the center (up
to, but not through the cutting line at the top). Take darts from
the slash toward the cap of the sleeve to help the pattern lie
flat. Be sure the darts taper to nothing at the armhole. This
really does work and just think -- the next time you hug your
husband around the neck -- you wont split a seam.