Algerian Flatbread

There's character to spare in this layered flatbread, called msemmen in Arabic. The dough is rubbed with spiced oil, rolled into a spiral, flattened, and then cooked on a griddle, for a flakiness that's surprisingly substantial. Zadi likes pairing the flatbread with an acidic dish, which is why we recommend it with the shrimp charmoula; but, as he points out, the bread actually goes well with the entire meal, so plan on leaving it on the table from Start to finish.

Preparation

Make dough:
Stir together flour, salt, and 2 tablespoons oil in a large bowl. Slowly stir in water until a soft dough forms. If necessary, add more water 1 tablespoon at a time. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead, dusting with just enough flour to keep dough from sticking, until smooth and elastic, about 15 minutes.

Form dough into a ball and coat with 2 tablespoons oil in a bowl. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let dough stand at warm room temperature 1 hour.

Stir together cumin, paprika, turmeric, and remaining 1/4 cup oil in a small bowl.

Form flatbreads:
Divide dough into 12 equal pieces and, keeping remaining pieces covered with plastic wrap, flatten 1 piece of dough into a disk. Roll out disk as thinly as possible (into a 9-inch round) on a lightly floured surface with a 6-inch wooden dowel or a rolling pin. Spread 1 teaspoon spiced oil on dough with your fingertips, then roll up tightly into a long cylinder and coil into a tight spiral. Transfer to a large sheet of parchment paper, then loosely cover with plastic wrap.

Make 11 more spirals in same manner.

Finish and cook flatbreads:
Tape another sheet of parchment to a work surface and on it roll out 1 spiral of dough into a round approximately 6 inches in diameter. Heat a dry large cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium heat until hot, then cook flatbread, turning once, until puffed and browned in spots, 3 to 4 minutes total. Transfer to a plate and cover with a kitchen towel. Roll out and cook 11 more flatbreads, stacking them on plate.

What to drink: Cape Mentelle Margaret River Chardonnay '05

Cooks' notes:
Flatbreads are best when freshly made but can be cooked 1 day ahead, then cooled and kept, wrapped in foil, at room temperature. Reheat (in foil) in a 350°F oven or in a steamer about 10 minutes.
Spirals of dough can be rolled out (but not cooked) 1 day ahead and chilled, layered between sheets of plastic wrap, then tightly wrapped, on a baking sheet. Bring to room temperature before cooking.

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Recent Review

Perhaps I did
something wrong, but
this was a failure.
1. 1 1/2 cups of
water was way too
much liquid. I added
one cup and then had
to add another 1/2
cup of flour to make
it (barely)
kneadable.
2. The bread was
tough, resembling
cardboard.
3. The spiced oil
had no flavor.
4. I fried up only
have of the dough
before giving up and
turning the
remaining dough over
to the chickens.