How to Make Essential Oils Work For Your Skin Type

In the beauty world, there is probably nothing more divisive than the use of oils, essential oils especially. Some swear by oils for healthy, moisturized skin; others insist oil-based products cause breakouts. Unfortunately, getting to the truth isn’t all that easy — as with most beauty-related concerns, determining if oils work for you is often a matter of trial and error. But, skincare errors? Not so fun. So we decided to get to the bottom of the oil debate once and for all, and consulted Oille owner and clinical aromatherapist Kirsten King to get the full (and, as it turns out, fascinating) scoop on oils — from the essential variety (think: calming lavender), to carrier oils (think: olive and sweet almond) and everything in between. As it turns out, pretty much everyone — save, occasionally, for pregnant women and young children — can benefit from a boost of oil. The trick is finding which ones work for you, because like any skin product, different types have different functions. Ahead, everything you need to know about oils for the best skin of your life.

First things first: Oil doesn’t cause acne breakouts. At least, not if you’re using the right ones. According to King, the trick is to use oils rich in linoleic acid, such as grapeseed oil, rosehip oil or evening primrose oil. Linoleic acid, as King explains, is an omega-6 fatty acid, and tends to be on the lighter end, weight-wise, so it provides “quick absorbing” moisture without greasiness. Another great option for oily skin types are astringent oils, such as grapefruit oil or cypress oil, which, according to King, “work beautifully in contracting and tightening skin tissue while reducing excess [oil].” And for those extra-greasy days — during the height of the summer, for instance — try dabbing on a bit of geranium essential oil, which can help restore balance and reduce excess oil.

Good news: Dry skin can benefit from pretty much any type of oil, since all of them provide tons of much-needed moisture for your parched skin. That said, there are some types that perform better than others in reducing dryness: According to King, your best bet is to look for oils rich in oleic acid (such as sweet almond, olive, or avocado oils) which tend to be richer and more hydrating. Other skin-healing oils that benefit dry skin include neroli, rosewood, and evening primrose essential oils, but according to King, you’ll want to dilute these in larger quantities of heavier oleic-rich oils (referred to as “carrier oils”) because some essential oils can be a bit too harsh to use alone.

If your skin is super-sensitive, oils can be a bit tricky to figure out, since many varieties — particularly oxidized citrus oils and warming essential oils (such as cinnamon) can aggravate temperamental skin. That’s not to say these oils are off limits, though: You’ll just have to be a bit more careful when experimenting with these types of oils. Citrus oils, especially, can be “photo-toxic” when used improperly, which may be especially damaging to sensitive complexions (seriously). According to King, “these oils can be a beautiful addition to a blend if diluted appropriately under safety guidelines. For instance, using bergamot under 0.4 percent, lemon under two percent, or grapefruit under four percent [concentration].” Finally, King advises that since 95 percent of essential oils are adulterated, those with sensitive skin should research their oils carefully to ensure they aren’t laced with irritating dyes, salts or detergents.

So, there’s good news and bad news for those who opt to abide by “green” beauty routines. The good news? There are plenty of great brands that offer 100 percent natural essential oils and blends. The bad news? Even products labeled organic “may be questionable in authenticity,” according to King. This is because labeling isn’t really regulated if the oils are intended for topical use — so ingredients “only need to be 70 percent organic to be labeled organic, [or] 95 percent to be USDA certified organic, if ingredients are within [the organization’s] approved guidelines.” King adds, “An essential oil can be labeled as organic but that doesn’t mean it hasn’t been diluted with organic alcohol to increase volume for profit or adulterated with synthetics.” She advises asking the manufacturer to disclose the oil’s “Latin name, country of origin, season, and year of distillation” to ensure your botanical oil is actually natural.

If you're pregnant or taking medication…

According to King, some botanical oils may have undesired effects when used topically if you’re pregnant, nursing, or taking certain medications: Since oils are derived from plants, they may still retain some of the plant’s medicinal properties. This doesn’t mean essential oils are totally off limits — it just means you need to be extra careful. King recommends working under the guidance of a certified aromatherapist, who will know all of the potential interactions and side effects of the different oils in your arsenal.

If you have no idea where to start…

According to King, nearly all botanical and essential oils “are chalk-full of beneficial health promoting ingredients from omega three, six [and] nine [fatty acids], to healing medicinal plant properties.” In other words: It’s hard to go wrong if you research your brands and products well (King’s own brand, Oille, is one of our favorites for botanical oils: The brand lab-tests all of its ingredients to ensure the purest and safest formulations possible). Check out her extensive shop here, and see more of our favorite beauty oils here.