hexayurt wrote:*very* interesting - anybody else heard more about the hexayurt workshop? I'd quite like to make that more visible on the site, I've wanted to see (decent, ethical) commercial production for *years!*Please drop me a line if anybody finds out more!V>(inventor of the hexayurt)

you are THE vinay gupta??? it's a pleasure to see you haunting these boards!

THANK YOU for sharing your invention with the world. i can't wait to get my pentayurt to the playa!

I had an H13 I built on the playa last year. I don't have any pictures I think, but I'll look if I can find one. It worked great and the full height door was not only nice to easily walk through but the additional height in the front really makes the inside seem even way more spacious. I didn't have any problem with wind so the added height didn't seem to cause any wind resistance problems. I would absolutely suggest it over the standard H12.

I used angle iron as stakes for the four corners and used a post hammer to put them 18" in to the ground. Then I tension the four stakes together compressing the cube about a foot from the top of the cube.The rebar stakes around the cube cross (make an "X") on the top of the roof, pushing/securing the roof down on to the cube.

There is an internal crossbeam keeping the roof from collapsing as well as providing a place to hang the light inside.

it was out there 2008, 2009 and 2011 and stayed solid in the worst storms.

Telling my girlfriend to use vinegar to wash off the playa from the taped sections and get the edges ready for new tape, only to realize after she used seasoned vinegar for sushi which has salt and sugar added to it.. Whoops, white vinegar and windex cleared off the sticky eventually

Lots of edge and foil repair. I love foil tape. It is worth the xtra money at HD for the thicker stuff. I kinda wish I had done all of the edging with this stuff!

Door repair and adjustment. I reinforced the door last year and added hinges and a latch. SO great, just need to improve the swing a little..

Swamp cooler is tested and ready for battle again, think I will replace the pad though. FYI, do NOT put melted cooler water in the swamp cooler. It stinks.

Here are some pics of my door piece. I keep the yurt in 3 two-panel sections for the walls and used the Danger hinge method to keep the roof in two pieces. The roof needed the most repair, but still so much easier than having 12 different roof pieces to assemble on playa. Fuck a bunch of that. The white you see of the right side is dry erase paint. It did not survive the winter so I will be redoing that as well. Having a dry erase area on the side wall, and one on the inside as well, is outstanding for leaving notes for friends and partners

I used angle iron as stakes for the four corners and used a post hammer to put them 18" in to the ground. Then I tension the four stakes together compressing the cube about a foot from the top of the cube.The rebar stakes around the cube cross (make an "X") on the top of the roof, pushing/securing the roof down on to the cube.

There is an internal crossbeam keeping the roof from collapsing as well as providing a place to hang the light inside.

it was out there 2008, 2009 and 2011 and stayed solid in the worst storms.

Call it paranoia, over-engineering or just plain caution but I've decided to foil-over all exterior bifilament tape. Today I started going over our camp danger style hinges. I am not nearly precise enough to cover a six inch strip of bifilament tape with two three inch strips of foil tape so I've been doing the hinges with three strips.

OMG thats is a lot of foil tape. Time to rush out another order I guess !

My paranoia regarding my yurt is not fire but that it will lift off the ground and get airborne during a big wind. I strap it down pretty good buy my knot tying skills leave a lot to be desired. We took our yurt to Symbiosis this year at Pyramid lake. Winds out there reached around 40 mph gusts and we did okay although there was a little lift during some of the bigger gusts. The ground was very loose soil though and we only used 18 in rebar. For BRC i'm bringing longer rebar this year...

So another thought I have been having, since I like to do things ridiculously over the top, is to build a monkey hut and use it off the front of the yurt as a foyer/de-dusting area. Taking off shoes and the like to keep the dust inside to a minimum. I do worry a bit that a strong gust could push the monkey hut into the yurt and potentially damage it. Do you think keeping a lot of tension off the front pulling it out away from the yurt would be enough to prevent that? Am I insane? I kinda want to have the monkey hut, put some astroturf on the inside, and maybe a chandelier close to the door. I will be on playa 12 days this year, so the effort is worth it, just want to make sure I am not taking bigger risks with my silly decadence.

My last hexayurt was an H15 built out of 2" R-Max and it worked great. I gifted it to some Swiss guys last year because I was only able to come up for a few days and it didn't seem worth the trouble and it gave me an excuse to build a new one. I'm making the new out of 2" again and I'm building a better foyer. My last one had a sort of foyer, A panel extension. As small as it was, it helped.[img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigbabyjesus61/6022308463[/img]

big baby jesus wrote:My last hexayurt was an H15 built out of 2" R-Max and it worked great. I gifted it to some Swiss guys last year because I was only able to come up for a few days and it didn't seem worth the trouble and it gave me an excuse to build a new one. I'm making the new out of 2" again and I'm building a better foyer. My last one had a sort of foyer, A panel extension. As small as it was, it helped. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigbabyjesus61/6022308463

Lucky420,Couldn't make it to Compression, it looked cool though. I'm 6'3" and my H15 felt so spacious. I've got an indoor kitchen this year and it'll fit within the 8' x 6' dimensions of the wall. Last year it was a bar, this year it'll be more. I saw your posts about the wind and you'll be fine if you just go with longer rebar, I used 24's and 36's and never once gave the winds a thought. Remember a set of vice grips, you'll never be able to pull the rebar out, just clamp the VG's on and spin them out.

Home Depots in Dallas are only carrying 3/4" thick Rmax R-matte, which is too flimsy. They can special order Thermasheath 1" and 1 1/2" thick, but you have to buy the whole bundle. Not an option for me. So I was thinking of getting the 3/4" thick stuff and glue them to some thin plywood (perhaps 1/4"?). I've been reading that plywood isn't the greatest material for the playa as it is heavy and a bitch to put up. But I can't seem to find anything other than 3/4" insulated panels in my area.

Any ideas?

...all matter is merely energy condensed to a slow vibration – that we are all one consciousness experiencing itself subjectively. There's no such thing as death, life is only a dream, and we're the imagination of ourselves...

junglebrad wrote:Home Depots in Dallas are only carrying 3/4" thick Rmax R-matte, which is too flimsy. They can special order Thermasheath 1" and 1 1/2" thick, but you have to buy the whole bundle. Not an option for me. So I was thinking of getting the 3/4" thick stuff and glue them to some thin plywood (perhaps 1/4"?). I've been reading that plywood isn't the greatest material for the playa as it is heavy and a bitch to put up. But I can't seem to find anything other than 3/4" insulated panels in my area.

Any ideas?

What if you did a double layer of the 3/4" panels? Meaning gluing two panels together. I would think you could do that just for the walls and then just use a single layer of the 3/4 for the roof. Or if there is a mailing list or facebook group for Dallas burners and post and see if you can get a group to go in together on the bundle of the 1" or 1 1/2". There could be other people in your area interested in building a yurt.

We do have a Lowes also but you have to order the whole bundle from them as well. I thought about doubling the panels but that would cost twice as much. Do you think a plywood backing would be a bad idea? I already have quite a few sheets of waferboard in the garage.

...all matter is merely energy condensed to a slow vibration – that we are all one consciousness experiencing itself subjectively. There's no such thing as death, life is only a dream, and we're the imagination of ourselves...

I just can't guess how the plywood would effect the cooling factor. Maybe instead of using a whole sheet you cut into an X shape to stabilize the the panels so they are more wind resistant without adding so much extra bulk?

would plywood affect the cooling factor? RMAX is insulation that is used for houses. Depending on what exterior your house has, the RMAX is still covered with some type of wood, siding, stucco (wood underneath) etc.

and would 3/4 RMAX be that flimsy if it was taped and staked real good?

on page 23 of this thread towards the bottom of the page, Vinny Gupta who is the inventor of the hexayurt posted a comment. His eplayan name is hexayurt, maybe you could pm him and ask about the 3/4 rmax. Not sure how often he checks this board but maybe worth a shot.