1/8 Scale Nitro Truck/Truggy:

Kyosho Inferno ST-RR - 31353 (Radio Controlled Model)

History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Kyosho Inferno ST-RR:

Released by Kyosho in 2007, the 4WD Inferno ST-RR Stadium Truck - # 31353 - was designed and developed for top level racing by Kyosho driver Yuichi Kanai.

The model is shaft driven, with an alloy plate chassis, gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled "big bore" dampers, universal joint drive-shafts and prop-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

A second Inferno ST-RR - # 31353S21 - was available in 2008, with the Sirio S21 BK Evo.4 engine included in the kit.

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To race the Kyosho Inferno ST-RR, it requires time and patience, to tune and adjust for improvements in handling and steering ability and to get the grip you need to stay on course when manoeuvring around tight, slippery corners. A little can be a lot when it comes to changing your cars settings and our easy methodical directions will guide you to the best Set-up to help you win and keep you winning.

Our easy to understand guide will show you how to adjust the Nitro Engine for your Inferno ST-RR.

Employing a number of sensible ideas, find out how you can avoid Radio interference, and problems with your Servo, by making a few changes to the layout of your equipment in your chassis. Discover what the top drivers do to improve the efficiency of their Kyosho Inferno ST-RR Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips.

Radio Controlled Model Accessories:

Items For Sale:

★ Kyosho Inferno ST-RR ★

★ Kyosho Inferno ST-RR Chassis ★

Buying a Used Kyosho Inferno ST-RR Truck (and What to look for)

Buying a used Kyosho Inferno ST-RR Nitro Truck, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Truck you may discover can easily be fixed.

When you receive your used Kyosho Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

If the body shell of your Kyosho Inferno ST-RR is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Inferno ST-RR model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

If you intend to race your Inferno ST-RR Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

The gearbox of your used Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Gears are a weakness on all Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

The Inferno ST-RR steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

If body roll on your Kyosho Inferno ST-RR is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

If your used Kyosho Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

Finally, good luck with your Inferno ST-RR model and good racing.

For More on how to Setup your Truck, check out my Hints and Tips page.

This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Hints and Tips

Choosing a Transmitter

When you first started in RC, you may have purchased a package that came with the car kit, motor, battery, charger, ESC and radio system complete. The transmitter was probably just a basic steer wheel, or stick type, with nothing more than forward, reverse, left, right and simple trim settings to centralise the servo and ESC.

After a while, as your enthusiasm grows and your experience increases, you will want to move on to a better radio system, with more setting options, but where do you begin?

Choosing the right transmitter is a personal thing. It has to feel right, have the balance you like, not be too bulky for your hand size and have all the features you might need to set up your car to your driving style.

Transmitters these days are highly sophisticated pieces of engineering and once you choose you transmitter you will probably stick with it for the rest of your competitive career.

Don't just go for the one you see in a review that looks and sounds like the best thing there could ever be and came at a bargain price. Then when it arrives through the post and you get it in your hands it just doesn't have the feel you thought it would have. Sits awkwardly in your hands and is so complicated to set up you need a university degree to understand it.

Talk to the experienced racers at your local track, ask them their opinion, see what their transmitter is like and if they will allow you to, hold it in your hands and see how it feels. All the best buys in life are made by recommendation. Then, once you have some idea what you are looking for, look on the internet for that model to get the best price, or go to a dealer and check out the latest models.

Frequency choice depends on where in the world you live and what form of RC you are into. Fortunately, most of the top end transmitters can change to different frequency ranges by simply fitting a different module, so if you ever move up to an international level, you don't have to buy a new transmitter, just a module and receiver.

Hints and Tips

Aerodynamics

It is commonly understood that weight improves traction. If you have ever seen TV coverage of any kind of full size motor racing, you will have heard the terms, aerodynamics and down force. Well, they also relate to small scale models in exactly the same manner.

Bodyshell aerodynamics for RC model cars is a science in itself and the wrong one could loose you the race. Back in my day the shell to have for 1:10 on-road, was the Alfa Romeo 156. The bodyshell that came with the car kit was a Peugeot 406, but that soon went into the bin when I got the Alfa. The difference in performance was amazing, but it wasn't a patch on the Frewer, Ferrari F50. The rear wing on that bodyshell was phenomenal; it was the fastest thing on the track, great for club racing, but to my cost, illegal for top level racing. Regulations stipulate that the rear wing should be no higher than the roof of the car, the Frewer wing was way too high, so another one was relegated to the "do not use" box.

Off-Road models also benefit from aerodynamics and down force, but to a lesser degree than on-road models. The rear wing provides good down force for improved traction on dirt tracks and is discussed in detail in one of my other articles.

Way back in 1994, a company named Tenth Technology produced a 1:10 buggy called the Predator. The design of the car was innovative to say the least, with inboard laydown cantilever operated shocks and extra low, almost flat bodyshell. The most eye-catching element of the design was the wings. Not only did it have a nice large wing on the rear, it also had one of a similar size at the front. It was one of those cars where the idea seemed good and the car was fast … very fast and did once win the British Championship. The problem was its fragility. Any small knock damaging the front wing, made it un-drivable.