I usually stop the test if it goes much higher than 60. At 4.5 it gets around 55-58 under load. Any higher clock its up above 60. Wasnt paying attention and got to 69 once. Might be moving to water soon, I dont like it so hot

Guys, my 8120 keeps throttling back and forth between 3.0 GHz and 3.3 GHz. It's not running hot or anything. I don't think I've missed any settings I need to turn off in the BIOS. Anybody wanna run them by me again, maybe I'm forgetting something...

im still waiting on a water pump so have not oc'd my fx yet however I thought id mention ,you two may be hitting Amds new TDP / temp limits which I think would cause a Bsd, What I mean is they will only work within a certain TDP and temp envelope so your oc is going to have to be well thought out and cooled to remain stable..

Guys, my 8120 keeps throttling back and forth between 3.0 GHz and 3.3 GHz. It's not running hot or anything. I don't think I've missed any settings I need to turn off in the BIOS. Anybody wanna run them by me again, maybe I'm forgetting something...

Click to expand...

Captn, I would disable Turbo, CnQ, all energy saving features in BIOS and let 8120 run at 3,6 GHz minimum.
Do you use it for crunching, right?

Guys, my 8120 keeps throttling back and forth between 3.0 GHz and 3.3 GHz. It's not running hot or anything. I don't think I've missed any settings I need to turn off in the BIOS. Anybody wanna run them by me again, maybe I'm forgetting something...

Click to expand...

Ckn, easy fix. Look for APM in the BIOS and disable it. That should be all you need to toggle off to keep it from throttling if you're not pushing the volts.

Good to see you posting again. We have ran out of issues so. The activity is low here. I have been spending a good deal of time on overclockers.com official AMD Fish era FX-8350/8320 forum. Lots of info and a very knowledgeable, but arrogant moderator there called Kyad. Had to tell him off a couple of times when he called me a liar and such when I made an honest error.No big deal.
Did you hear that Swiftech has the H220 water cooler coming out next month for US $139.99? It is upgradeable and has a 240 mm all copper radiator very powerful pump superior tubing and water block. It comes as a typical AOC water loop, but you can add another radiator and block for GPU relatively easily. High
Quality and far better than anything Corsair has out or in the works. The pump itself is 6 watts as opposed to the 1.6 watt pump on the H100 of Corsair. Will give you non-stressed 4-5 degree better temps than H 100 and under full load far better than that. I'm waiting for their H320 to be released in a few months, it is basically the same as H320 Swiftech but has 360 mm radiator copper and a third 120mm fan. These units are far quieter than the Corsair , even under load.
Also available in Canada late February at NC something or other.

yea I was told I cant rely on software for voltage...I do have like three or four monitoring tools which all say the same. also been told asus m5 boards use a digi vrm which adds more voltage.

how do you guys tell what volts to set etc? my temps are fine, no crashes, if I set vcore any lower the prime wont initiate. would you say im about there?

and thanks

Click to expand...

Well after setting the vcore in BIOS, i just stick LLC on ultra and all you can do is assume it's what i set it to with a touch more on top of that. I run stability tests at every 0.01v difference until stability tests run.

Probably not wrong. Due to vdroop on a cheap motherboard that doesn't have proper LLC options. (line load calibration). Those AMD 970 and even some 990X boards have inadequate VRMs and inadequate LLC control to regulate voltages and compensate for vdroop. So you would have to add the difference between the voltage in bios and voltage in the os to your bios setting.

That motherboard will not cut it for overclocking purposes. Inadequate phase control and LLC options are not adequate. But as I said you need to compensate for vdroop bu adding the difference between vcore voltage in bios and in the operating system after boot. Add the difference to your bios setting. That will help with stability for the short run. You really need to upgrade to a better motherboard. This cpu as you knwo produces a good amount of heat and your VRMs need to have better phase control and better heat sinks that you'll find on better AM3+ motherboards. examples Asus Sabertooth 990FX rev 2.0 or Crosshairs V Z. Gigabyte 990FX UD5 or UD 7, and Asrock Fatality Extreme 9.

Did some testing this weekend with the stock voltage. First off, the stock voltage on my 8320 is 1.360v (when loaded). Highest I can go with 1.360v is 4.3 and its completely stable. 4.4 requires a 0.025v bump, and 4.5 requires a 0.050v bump. Actual load for 4.5GHz is actually 1.376v-1.400v. Anything after that, and it needs more juice than 0.025-0.050v. 4.715GHz (205x23) needs 1.475v (load) to be stable, idle is 1.504v, and temps are still well under 60C. Temps sit around 53-54c during IBT. The issue with the board I have though, isn't that the 8320 can't take more volts and higher multipliers. It has no issue booting a 5-5.2GHz. The problem is the vrm's get too hot. Anything after 4.71GHz and the vrm's start hitting 70C+, with causes em to down some phases to lower temps. Which of course ultimately, makes things unstable (referring to stress testing).

So, anyone who is looking at boards in the $100-130 range with 6-8 power phase designs, don't expect to reach above 4.7GHz with 100% stability. To be safe, I'd say 4.6-4.7 is about as high as you're going to go on a $100-$140 board, and thats only if you get a decent chip that doesn't want gobs of vcore after 4.4Ghz (like some people were plagued with). You'll need to dip into the higher end 990FX's to get a REALLY good overclocking board. CHF, Sabertooth, UD7, etc.

Your observations are quite accurate. Even with my original Crosshair V not a Z model, the 8x2 power phase could be improved upon. though they are better than most. My chips is not the greatest I can't get stable above 4.7 GHZ. And 4.7 requires about 1.5 core voltage. Not good. So I run it at 4.6 GHZ at 1.42 core voltage in bios. It would be nice if I had one of those"golden" chips. No such luck. Getting a replacement for my Corsair h100 in a couple of months. Corsair sucks with their aluminum radiator narrow diameter tubing and inferior pump etc. I am going to get either a Swiftech H220 with 240mm copper radiator , powerful 6watt pump as opposed to Corsairs 1.7 volt pump, and 5/8" tubing, and all copper water block. Better quality and lower temps than Corsair. I am waiting for the H320 which is the same as H220 except with 360mm copper radiator and a third 120mm fan. The fans run quieter and more efficiently than the Corsair fans. Should be available by April on Newegg a etc. The unit is expandable, you can add another radiator and water block for a gpu etc. The H220 will be available the end of February. they come pre-filled as closed loop. But as I said they can be expanded.

Did some testing this weekend with the stock voltage. First off, the stock voltage on my 8320 is 1.360v (when loaded). Highest I can go with 1.360v is 4.3 and its completely stable. 4.4 requires a 0.025v bump, and 4.5 requires a 0.050v bump. Actual load for 4.5GHz is actually 1.376v-1.400v. Anything after that, and it needs more juice than 0.025-0.050v. 4.715GHz (205x23) needs 1.475v (load) to be stable, idle is 1.504v, and temps are still well under 60C. Temps sit around 53-54c during IBT. The issue with the board I have though, isn't that the 8320 can't take more volts and higher multipliers. It has no issue booting a 5-5.2GHz. The problem is the vrm's get too hot. Anything after 4.71GHz and the vrm's start hitting 70C+, with causes em to down some phases to lower temps. Which of course ultimately, makes things unstable (referring to stress testing).

So, anyone who is looking at boards in the $100-130 range with 6-8 power phase designs, don't expect to reach above 4.7GHz with 100% stability. To be safe, I'd say 4.6-4.7 is about as high as you're going to go on a $100-$140 board, and thats only if you get a decent chip that doesn't want gobs of vcore after 4.4Ghz (like some people were plagued with). You'll need to dip into the higher end 990FX's to get a REALLY good overclocking board. CHF, Sabertooth, UD7, etc.

Your observations are quite accurate. Even with my original Crosshair V not a Z model, the 8x2 power phase could be improved upon. though they are better than most. My chips is not the greatest I can't get stable above 4.7 GHZ. And 4.7 requires about 1.5 core voltage. Not good. So I run it at 4.6 GHZ at 1.42 core voltage in bios. It would be nice if I had one of those"golden" chips. No such luck. Getting a replacement for my Corsair h100 in a couple of months. Corsair sucks with their aluminum radiator narrow diameter tubing and inferior pump etc. I am going to get either a Swiftech H220 with 240mm copper radiator , powerful 6watt pump as opposed to Corsairs 1.7 volt pump, and 5/8" tubing, and all copper water block. Better quality and lower temps than Corsair. I am waiting for the H320 which is the same as H220 except with 360mm copper radiator and a third 120mm fan. The fans run quieter and more efficiently than the Corsair fans. Should be available by April on Newegg a etc. The unit is expandable, you can add another radiator and water block for a gpu etc. The H220 will be available the end of February. they come pre-filled as closed loop. But as I said they can be expanded.

Click to expand...

Don't forget about the XSPC kits. FrozenCPU is great with shipping btw, I've bought from them a few times.