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Once, I did a Christmas cookie exchange. It was 23 years ago, when my eldest son was a baby and I imagined that motherhood was going to make me a different person, the kind of person who sewed her childrens' clothes (I did that, and they were ghastly) and taught piano lessons to toddlers (the less said, the better).

I can't remember what kind of cookies I made for the exchange, except that I put them into a paper grocery bag, where they rattled around, banging into each other and causing injury.

I was not invited back.

So you can only imagine my excitement when an exquisite new book on cookie exchanges was released. I felt that familiar flutter of hope -- oh, maybe this is the food thing that will change my life. And while I am not sure I could even rustle up enough girlfriends to take part in the exchange (we are nowadays devoted to yoga and buttery Chardonnays; cookies having fallen right off the radar), I still thrill at the notion of Christmas traditions, if not the actual execution.

But here's the thing: Cookie maker extraordinaire Barbara Grunes (a prominent food historian who has written more than 45 cookbooks) says cookie exchanges need not lead to humiliation, or worse, paralysis. In fact, the co-author of Very Merry Cookie Party: How to Plan and Host a Christmas Cookie Exchange (Chronicle Books, 2010, $19.95) says it's up to the person organizing the exchange to make sure it's a warm and welcoming affair and not an excuse to excoriate the new neighbour for bringing Rice Krispies squares shaped like stars. Indeed, Grunes says all the Rice Krispies people should band together to do their own thing, leaving those who hand-paint their cookies to daintily commune with one another.

"You can't put a ringer in there," says Grunes, ever-practical, as so many cookie people are. "You can't have someone who is the best cook in the neighbourhood. You make it so it's even."

With that in mind, Grunes (along with co-cookie-conspirator Virginia Van Vynckt and photographer France Ruffenach) has crafted a Christmas cookie guide that is, at the same time, aspirational and inspirational. You can choose to stride ambitiously through the book and make your own marshmallow for the Father Christmas S'mores. But if that leaves you feeling panicky, there is a straight-up design for Candy Cane Cookies (simply two ropes of sugar-cookie dough intertwined, one stained with red food colouring).

The book plays with old standards such as the traditional fruit-based Christmas cake (which has fallen out of favour), creating instead a Holiday Slice that's almost like a biscotti, studded with bright fruit and sliced thin after being double-baked.

The authors have also introduced some new flavours to the Christmas canon, such as green tea. There is a whole chapter on cookies that can be used to decorate a tree, and another on Christmas treats that feature chocolate.

The book also includes recipes for non-cookie Christmas confections, such as the Mini-Gingerbread Cupcakes (with rum raisin frosting), plus a variety of bars, including a fast, easy and delicious apricot square.

In fact, Grunes recommends that a mix of cookies and other treats is a good idea for any exchange. If you've got the time, create a lunch around your exchange, with little sandwiches for nibbling and lots of cold milk for dunking.

Grunes recommends keeping three points in your mind when planning an exchange:

1. Canvass invited guests about what they are making so you don't have doubles. It's also good if people make cookies that are roughly the same size, so that the person who makes the giant cookies doesn't end up feeling ripped off.

2. Keep the size of the exchange manageable. Ideally, five people get together, making six dozen cookies each, with a dozen to be shared at the exchange party itself.

3. Include as much colour as possible among the cookies being crafted. After all, it's Christmas, and everyone loves a little sparkle.

CANDY CANE COOKIES

Makes 42

1 cup (250 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup (250 mL) confectioner's sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon (5 mL) almond extract

½ teaspoon (2 mL) salt

2-1/2 cups (625 mL) all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) red food colouring

3/4 cup (175 mL) white decorating sugar or granulated sugar

Preheat the oven to 375 F/190 C. Have ready ungreased non-stick cookie sheets. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, beat together the butter and confectioner's sugar until light, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in the egg, almond extract, and salt. On low speed, gradually beat in the flour until a medium-firm dough forms. Divide the dough in half. Beat the red food colouring into half of the dough. Blend until the colour is evenly mixed throughout the dough.

Pinch off 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of the red dough. Roll between your palms to form a 4-inch-long (10-centimetre) rope. Pinch off 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of the plain dough and form into a 4-inch-long (10-centimetre) rope. Press the ropes to each other at one end and then twist them together to resemble a striped cane. Shape one end into a hook. Repeat with the remaining dough. As the cookies are shaped, arrange them on the cookie sheets, spacing them about 1/2 inch (a little more than a centimetre) apart.

Bake in the centre of the oven until just firm when lightly pressed with a fingertip, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the decorating sugar while still hot. Let cool on the cookie sheets for 2 minutes, then transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool completely.

Cookie exchange tip: To use these cookies as tree ornaments, gently tie a red or white ribbon around the handle of the cane, creating a 2-to 3-inch (roughly 6-cm) loop that will easily slip onto the branch of the tree. Or, make a hole in the handle of the cane before baking and then thread the ribbon through the hole.

GLACE CHERRY HOLIDAY SLICES

Makes 25

3 large egg whites

1/2 cup (125 mL) cup sugar

1 cup (250 mL) sifted all-purpose flour

1/3 cup (75 mL) sliced almonds, preferably toasted

1/3 cup (75 mL) chopped pistachios

1/3 cup (75 mL) chopped candied pineapple

1/4 cup (50 mL) candied red cherries, chopped

1/4 cup (50 mL) candied green cherries, chopped

Preheat the oven to 350 F/190 C. Lightly grease or spray an 8-inch (20-centimetre) square pan. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the egg whites on high speed until soft peaks form. Sprinkle the sugar over the egg whites and continue beating on high speed until the sugar is incorporated. Sprinkle with the flour and beat until incorporated. Stir in the almonds, pistachios, pineapple and red and green cherries. The batter will be thick.

Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake in the centre of the oven until golden brown on top and firm to a light touch, 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack. Carefully invert the pan onto a work surface. Wrap the cookie block in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 day.

Preheat the oven to 350 F/190 C. Have ready a non-stick cookie sheet. Using a sharp knife, carefully cut the cookie block into 1/4-inch-thick (6-mm) slices. Place the slices on the cookie sheet. Bake in the centre of the oven until crisp, 5 to 10 minutes. Let cool completely on the cookie sheet on a wire rack.

The thin, crisp cookie slices studded with candied, or glace, fruits will make you think of stained glass. This recipe can easily be doubled.

Cookie exchange tip: For a more festive look, tie 2 or 3 of these cookies together with ribbon.

APRICOT BARS

Makes 36 bars Crust:

3/4 cup (175 mL) cold unsalted butter, cut into chunks

1-3/4 cups (425 mL) all-purpose flour

3/4 cup (175 mL) granulated sugar Filling:

3/4 cup (175 mL) dried apricots, chopped

3/4 cup (175 mL) water

1 cup (250 mL) apricot preserves

1/4 cup (50 mL) cup firmly packed dark brown sugar

4 large eggs

1/4 teaspoon (1 mL) teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon (5 mL) vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350 F/190 C. Lightly grease or spray a 9-inch (22-centimetre) square baking pan or line it with baking parchment.

Prepare the crust. In a food processor, combine the butter, flour and sugar and pulse for a few seconds until a crumbly dough forms. Remove half of the mixture from the processor and set aside to use for the topping. Pat the remaining half of the mixture evenly over the bottom of the prepared baking pan. Bake in the centre of the oven until lightly golden, about 20 minutes.

While the crust is baking, prepare the filling. In a heavy, medium saucepan, combine the dried apricots and water over medium heat. Cook until all of the water is absorbed and the apricots are soft, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes. Transfer the apricots to the food processor and process to a smooth paste. Add the apricot preserves, brown sugar, eggs, salt and vanilla and process until thoroughly combined.

Remove the crust from the oven. Using a rubber spatula or an icing spatula, carefully spread the filling evenly over the hot crust. Then sprinkle the reserved crust mixture evenly over the filling.

Return the pan to the oven and bake until the top is golden brown, 35 to 45 minutes. Let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.

Using a sharp knife, cut into bars, dipping the knife into hot water and wiping it dry before each cut. Carefully remove the bars from the pan with a small offset spatula or an icing spatula.

These bars are particularly rich and sweet, so we cut them smaller than many other bar cookies.

Cookie exchange tip: Just before serving or packaging, dust these bars with a very light coating of confectioner's sugar.

Check out my blog Eat My Words at edmontonjournal.com/blogs

lfaulder@edmontonjournal.com

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