Chloé's kaleidoscopic ode to the Nineties

Kate Moss and the 1990s British rave scene were given a Parisian spin by the house of Chloé today.

Clare Waight-Keller, the English creative director of the French fashion label, dedicated her SS16 show to 'girls named Kate' amongst others (in the fashion world this can only ever mean one person: Moss) and sent models down the runway in wide-legged 'rave pants' that recalled the side-striped Adidas tracksuit bottoms worn in sweaty nightclubs and mucky fields during the house music-fuelled party years of the late Nineties.

Chloé SS16 collection

After two seasons anchoring the Chloé look to the 1970s - and confirming the house as a major trend leader in the process - it was good to see Waight-Keller moving the collection into a different realm.

Still resolutely Chloé with its signature flou dresses and blouses - particularly enticing in rainbow dipped crépon - the trousers and their counterpart trackie tops worn with trailing skirts, as well as silky dungarees, grounded a look that is sometimes at risk of floating away in its ethereality.

Waight-Keller in person can be very serious (understandably - leading a big fashion house is nothing to laugh about) but this collection was a lot of fun. With a colour palette that was slightly non-sensical, veering from school uniform navy and maroon to chalky pastels to rainbow brights, she threw in baby doll dresses and tops that recalled Courtney Love's thrift mish-mash.

Chloé SS16 collection

Glimpses of 'kaleidoscopic ' granny knickers under flimsy lace skirts, bare shouldered tops, a chunky reggae knit sweater and long rainbow cords with tassels that flew as the models walked added to the carnival feel.

Chloé SS16 collection

A lot of young designers reference the 90s these days but Waight-Keller is old enough to have lived it. There was a window in the era that celebrated freedom - indie music, DIY clubs, thrift fashion - before the big record labels and brands commodified British youth culture. The irony is of course that this era is being celebrated by a big fashion house that will charge a pretty dime for the look. Rave on.