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This sounds a brilliant way to control brightness of Angel Eyes. Am currently saving up for P46's with Orion V2 Angel Eyes.
I know nothing about wiring so please forgive me if this is a really stupid question but I was wondering where I could put the control switch and then wondered whether there was any way to wire the Rheostat into the wire that controls the brightness of the instrument cluster dimmer. So therefore you could dim the instrument cluster which would also dim the angel eyes and consequently make it brighter by using the little wheel on the headlight control panel. I hope this makes sense.
Any ideas if this can be done or am I way off.
Thanks.

So if you have the dimming with interior lights option, you need 2 rheostats? Anyway they can be combined into one?

Bump. I have the same question.

Installed LED SMD today, they're so bright I didn't even have to use xenon when I put the car into the garage in the dark. Crazy 7000k. I'm a bit afraid using them at night, I don't really want to burn people's eyes out.

You're wrong again Nick. The trigger wire from the ECU switchs the main angel eye power relay on or off. Putting the rheostat on that trigger wire will not work.

The rheostat needs to be spliced into the red main power wire between the relay and the main power source as shown in the pictures below.

If you use the option that switches and fades the angel eyes on and off with the interior lights, you will need a second rheostat on the wire that goes to the interior footwell light. Without the second rheostat, the angel eyes will be at full brightness whenever the interior lights are on.

I installed an adjustable dimmer on my EAS Auroras to tone them down so they would look good at dusk and at night.
I don't use them during the day. (BTW, these are the new, 15% brighter v1.1 Auroras.)

To install the dimmer, I spliced into the main power wire between the relay and the main power source. I wired them to come on with the fog lights and I do not use the wire that fades them on and off with the interior lights.

The rheostat, plastic "project box", and the knob are all from Radio Shack. The cost of all three parts was less than $10.

25-Ohm 3-Watt Rheostat
Model: 271-265 | Catalog #: 271-265

Project Enclosure (3x2x1")
Model: 270-1801 | Catalog #: 270-1801

Communications Style Control Knob
Model: 274-402 | Catalog #: 274-402

Installing the dimmer was easy...

- Just drill three holes in the project box.
- Solder the wires to the rheostat.
-Assemble the project box and attach it to the firewall. ( I attached it with HD velcro. )

this is the cat's ass right here, gonna ditch my ccfl rings and get 120 led , i've read they are too bright, ty for solving the prob

i have mine wired into rear parking lights , should work same

gonna try the ijdmtoy ones first, for $60 , f it, if they don't last , then i'll jump up to bimmian, khoalty or eas , which are all twice as much ...............i wouldn't buy a pencil from umnitza

If you do buy the ijdm ones, be sure to solder the board's connection at the bottom of the rings as they're known to go bad randomly, which is why we stopped carrying that specific set of rings. We replaced so many under warranty that eventually we decided we were selling a sub-par product and dropped it for our own custom rings!

If you do buy the ijdm ones, be sure to solder the board's connection at the bottom of the rings as they're known to go bad randomly, which is why we stopped carrying that specific set of rings. We replaced so many under warranty that eventually we decided we were selling a sub-par product and dropped it for our own custom rings!

eh, figured i'd see how long i can get out of em , they told me they give 90 day warranty , i said how long they typically last?

his answer was, depends on use, no ball park, nothing,lol

60 bucks , i dunno why but i gota exp for myself b4 i say don't buy em, they are junk

you've sold some that have been fine ?

what's your warranty ?

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