Bobbed haircuts experienced a revival during the First World War for practical reasons. These early Bobs such as the "Castle Bob", "Dutch Bob", and "Page Bob"
were relatively plain but as time went by women looked for ways to enhance the Bob. Large numbers of women changed from long hair to short hair between 1923
and 1928. In 1925 the curled "Mae Murray" and the "Rose Petal" Bob were the rage as women began to realize the importance of individual styling. In 1933 waves were the rage. Marcelled and
finger-waved hair took the edge off the hard-edged early bobs. This trend away
from standardized bobbed hair to individual hair cuts and styles was a big factor in the enduring popularity of the Bob during the twenties and thirties.

Create Beautiful Bobbed Haircuts

Learn how to create the short, intermediate, and long bobs of the 1920's and 1930's - the beautiful bobs of the modern era. Learn how to cut and mould to the contours of
the head and neck...the natural hair lines...and the facial features. Learn how to emphasize good features and minimize defects to create a coiffure which will
have lines and beauty that enhance a persons charm.

The 119 illustrations and instructions in "1920's - 30's Haircutting and Styling" have been selected to help you master the intricacies of
individual hair cutting and styling. You will learn the skills to recreate stylish 1920's and 1930's Bobbed hairstyles from someone who was the foremost exponent of the art.

This book is primarily about customized cutting and styling techniques for bobbed hairstyles. It assumes you already know how to water-wave, marcel, and finger-wave. There are lots of photos of beautifully waved bob hairstyles to provide ideas, inspiration, and examples of completed coiffures to complement each of the cutting and styling lessons.

CONTENTS

Hair Styling and Design

Foreheads

Cowlicks

Neck Lines

Hairdressing Tools

Thinning and Tapering

Cutting and Thinning Hair for Permanent Waving

Hair Cutting with Scissors

Tapering

Shingling

Cutting Hair with a Razor

Hair Form and Structure

Layer Hair Cutting

Corrective or Alteration Hair Cut

Bangs

Excerpt #1 from "1920's - 30's Haircutting and Styling"

A very important factor in thinning the hair is the position of the scissors. (See Figure 31.) The scissors should be half open when you thin a strand of hair. Hold the strand of hair to be thinned in the left hand and place the scissors directly beyond your fingers. (See Figure 12.) Then with a light opening and closing of the scissors, slide it from the end of the hair to the roots. Never work from the roots down to the end when cutting with the scissors.

By opening and closing the scissors and using a movement toward the head, the hair will be thinned out in an uneven length. Repeat the up and down cutting movement until only the longest hair of the strand being thinned out remains in your left hand.

Always use the inside of your scissors and never the point.

Take a small section of hair (as indicated in the sketches) to accomplish more of an even thinning throughout the entire head of hair.

If you want to thin the strand of hair just a little and shorten it a trifle at the same time, back comb the hair (ruffing, as illustrated in Figure 5-A), pushing the short hair among the long hair, towards the head, being sure that not too much of the short hair is combed up. With short Strokes and the up and down gliding movements of the scissors, begin thinning. To thin the hair more, use the gliding movement of the scissors with a longer stroke.

For Croquignole permanent waving, when the hair must be thinned in the back, or wherever a tight curl is desired, thin the hair in the following manner. Take a thin section or strand of hair and hold it perfectly straight away from the head. Use short strokes with your scissors in an upward movement so that only the hair near the scalp is thinned. Comb out, then hold the end of the strand of hair and repeat in a very careful manner.

This is the little secret which aids you in producing beautiful and tight ringlet ends.

Excerpt #2 from "1920's - 30's Haircutting and Styling"

Hair which is properly cut in layers is easier to wave and retains the wave longer. Thus, the use of too heavy curling fluid is eliminated, the drying period is greatly shortened, and it becomes an easy matter for a woman to comb and set her own hair after it is waved. As you know, many women are afraid to comb their hair out completely from one shampoo to another, for fear that they will not be able to get it into the regular waves again. Then, too, layer cut hair gives the appearance of neatness and smartness. In almost every instance, a hairdress based on layer cut hair is also much more becoming and youthful. (Note the effective illustration of this in Figures 81 and 82.)

This illustrates a finished hair cut, if hair is to be worn straight. It is advisable to comb the hair into place with water and hair tonic, thus giving more of a foundation and a finished effect. Place a net over the hair and dry.

• Fig. 52 - This sketch shows a head of fine hair. The hair must be lifted up high enough from the scalp to judge correctly the length of the first layer.

The stroke of the scissors in layering the hair, goes from the fingers almost to the scalp. Otherwise, if the stroke is too short, the ends will be stubby and will not fit in properly, thereby permitting the beginning and ending of the layers to be seen.

Each layer must be extremely fine and as thin as a veil, in order to obtain the best results.

In this illustration only ten layers are indicated, but you will continue in the same manner to the nape of the neck; then proceed to the sides and layer the same as for the front.

• Fig. 53 - Here is the finished layered hair cut, before waving. As shown, all these ends are very fine. It would not be possible to dress the hair properly if these ends were stubby or layered with too short a stroke.

This type of hair cut lends itself to numerous fashions, such as the French curl, "Mae Murray Bob," or various pin curl bobs, as well as the French Bouclette curl.

The following photographs show different views of hair, cut in layers.

• Fig. 54 - One of the many ideas of arranging a combination shingle and layer hair cut is shown here.

This fan-shaped side hair may be divided again in different vertical layers and the ends turned in towards the face, giving a more feminine effect. You may also divide the top layer of this arrangement in two or three layers and turn the ends of the hair of each layer into a half ringlet or a whole ringlet curl. Such treatment will give height to those types of heads which happen to be flat and to short women who wish to appear taller.

COST - $27

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"Haircutting and Styling Techniques of the 1920's and 1930's" for creating bobbed hairstyles is a downloadable book in PDF format. The cost is only $27. You can read it on your computer or print it out. Being a PDF means it can be read by both PC's and
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for 'dial up' users.

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