Why India-inspired jewellery is trending all over the world right now

Whether it’s the Mehrangarh Fort Museum or traditions of nomadic tribes, international jewellery labels are looking east for inspiration.

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Alice Cicolini, London

Alice Cicolini, London

It was the chance spotting of an antique jewellery box at Mehrangarh Fort Museum in Jodhpur that sparked London-born Alice Cicolini’s interest in India’s rich history of gems and jewels.

What brought you to India for the first time?

I was a curator for British Council and travelled to India a number of times to meet designers like David Abraham, Rajesh Pratap Singh and Manish Arora. The conversations I had focused on the value of the handmade, on India’s extraordinary resources of highly skilled master craftsmen, and how design could help bring these skills back to the fore.

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Alice Cicolini, London

Alice Cicolini, London

You work extensively with meenakari. What drew you to the craft?

Meenakari is like painting on gold. I draw and paint when I design, rather than use any software, and in that way meenakari speaks to my design process. I’ve also forged a really valuable relationship with Kamal Meenakar in Jaipur, the master who makes my work, and I continue to be inspired by his skills all these years later.

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Alice Cicolini, London

Alice Cicolini, London

How do you balance Indian traditions with a global, contemporary style?

My inspirations come from everywhere, from an idyllic courtyard on the edges of Jaipur to the Topkapi Palace Museum, via the studio of Rajeev Sethi and his amazing library, to the archives of the V&A. Juxtaposing sources makes you look at the original with new eyes. As a result, my work has a feeling of India but is not traditionally Indian. Alicecicolini.com

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Bluma Project, New York

Bluma Project, New York

This “culturally-inspired” Brooklyn-based label founded by Beth Schaeer gets its design cues from various spots on the globe, from Peru and Guatemala to India. “I’ve travelled to India many times; I find it endlessly inspiring,” says Schaeer. “The colours and patterns are so rich, and I love how Indian women adorn themselves.”

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Bluma Project, New York

Bluma Project, New York

“At Bluma Project, we love tassels but have also used motifs from the amazing architecture and tile work there for our beading patterns.”

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Bluma Project, New York

Bluma Project, New York

Her India-inspired pieces include ‘Chandi’ bracelets fashioned out of brass and colourful tassels, gold-washed ‘Haveli’ earrings, and a spiked brass ‘Temple’ necklace, all made by artisans in India. Bluma-project.myshopify.com

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A Peace Treaty, New York

A Peace Treaty, New York

Dedicated to repackaging centuries-old crafts and traditions in a contemporary avatar, this New York-based label founded by Tel Aviv-born, Toronto-raised Dana Arbib draws inspiration from sources far and wide.

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A Peace Treaty, New York

A Peace Treaty, New York

When it comes to India, it’s the jewellery traditions of nomadic tribes that most excite her creativity. “I love the detail, the attention paid to stone settings, carvings, and how each piece looks like a piece of art,” says Arbib. “I like to take something that feels older and modernise it for a young customer, creating pieces inspired by a rich history.”

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A Peace Treaty, New York

A Peace Treaty, New York

For Arbib, age-old crafts and traditions represent the ultimate luxury, and she works directly with artisans in different countries to celebrate and honour their work. “There are only a few cultures left that pass down traditional handicrafts through the generations,” she says. “Most countries have moved on to importing cheaper machine made items.” Apeacetreaty.com

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Noor Fares, London

Noor Fares, London

“I have always been drawn to astrology, so it felt natural to translate the Navratna (which I discovered on a visit to India) into a collection.

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Noor Fares, London

Noor Fares, London

I decided to use the Upratna, which offers a substitute for the nine stones, and I also broke the symbol down into standalone pieces using one of the nine stones, as seen in the Navratna spiral earrings.”— Noor Fares Noorfares.com

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Haati Chai, Los Angeles

Haati Chai, Los Angeles

Founder Stella Simona’s grandmother, originally from Kolkata, remains the constant source of inspiration for this purveyor of delicate gold chains, sleek rings and petite pendants.

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Haati Chai, Los Angeles

Haati Chai, Los Angeles

Tell us about your relationship with India through your grandmother.

“Many of the connections to Kolkata come from the jewellery my grandmother passed down to me. Each time she gave me one of her heirlooms, she would tell me the story of how each piece came into her possession; I learned so much about her life through those pieces.”

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Haati Chai, Los Angeles

Haati Chai, Los Angeles

Explain to us the stories behind some of your recent India-inspired designs.

“The ‘Dalit’ ring is, of course, a nod to the Dalit caste; I’ve been studying societal issues based around the Indian class system. The ‘Night in Mumbai’ hoops are inspired by a pair my mom owned when she was 12 and later passed on to me. I named them that because hoops are my go-to accessory for a fun night out, and Mumbai is the perfect destination for that! I designed the ‘Petite Elephant’ neckpiece because elephants just remind me of India—of happiness and good luck.” Haatichai.com