It's a local star now Star of India Restaurant a tale of family and friends

July 03, 2006|JIM MEENAN Tribune Staff Writer

MISHAWAKA The Cheema family used to notice at their Indianapolis restaurant that they had a lot of customers from South Bend and Mishawaka. So about six years ago, they opened one here. And six months ago, they moved from their Edison Road location to the one at 3915 Grape Road. "We are doing very good," said Amarjit Singh Cheema, who runs Star of India, along with Sunny Singh, no relation. They are assisted by Amarjit's father, Banjit Singh Cheema, who started it all in the United States many years ago. The father has worked in restaurants in Buffalo and New York, besides owning one in Indianapolis. "My father was in the restaurant business before, so that's why I came into it," Amarjit said. "We have recipes from my father. He's an old cook. We are cooking for a long, long time." It's the recipes where the restaurant that bills itself as serving "Exotic, authentic, Indian cuisine," gets its flavor. As teenagers, he taught his sons how make the food. He has also worked with Sunny Singh. Larry Pierce, of South Bend, loves the food so much, he opted to spend some of his retirement time working there. "The flavors are good," he said of the food, whose bright red and yellow and orange colors alone grab the customer's attention, let alone the spicy flavoring. "It's a good blend of spices, and there are so many different ones. It's very tasty." Fred C. Elbel, of South Bend, says the food holds up even to national competition. "It's absolutely top-notch quality," he said. "I have a daughter ... who lives in San Francisco, and she says they can't touch this out there." His son who lives in Denver feels much the same way, Elbel said. What makes it good, Elbel said, is the consistency and the quality. "And the tastes are subtle," he said. "You can't go wrong." Besides flavor, the restaurant works at the basics. "We have good service, good food and a nice restaurant," Amarjit said. The restaurant with its cloth napkins and table cloths has a classy look. "My restaurants all look nice," Amarjit said. It's going very well since the move to Grape Road, too. "The new location is pretty good," Sunny said. "Business is a lot better than before." The spacious restaurant seats 240 or more and has a private room that seats 60. For hot times during football and other seasons, there's a 62-inch plasma screen television near the front of the restaurant, too. Open seven days a week, it does a strong business on weekends, plus daily for lunch where it features a buffet for $6.99. Top-selling items include chicken tandoori, which is chicken marinated in yogurt and fresh ground herbs and spices; chicken tikka masala, which is boneless chicken prepared with fresh tomato sauce with a touch of cream; chicken biryani (a mughial dish prepared with chicken and green peas with saffron flavored rice garnished with raisins and cashews); Saag Paneer (homemade cheese cooked with curried spinach) and nav ratan shahi korma (nine assorted garden fresh vegetables sautéed in fresh herbs and spices). Pre-dinner treats include papad (crispy lentil wafers served with spice) or Naan, (tandoori baked white flower bread) and naan cooked with garlic flavoring. And father and son stay in touch with their roots and food, taking turns traveling to India. It all adds up to tasty food and a loyal following. "I like having my spices blended, but in an exotic sort of way," Pierce said. "All the time the same customers come in every day," Sunny said.Staff writer Jim Meenan: jmeenan@sbtinfo.com (574) 235-6342