make sure to check your push rod length with the rockers, to get them were they need to be on the valve - stamped rockers are a lot of times listed as ford and other makes and they are not always right - and on the factory rods check the area were the rod nut seats for being flat a lot of times it is concave and the nut just barely touches the rod cap to hold it

make sure to check your push rod length with the rockers, to get them were they need to be on the valve - stamped rockers are a lot of times listed as ford and other makes and they are not always right - and on the factory rods check the area were the rod nut seats for being flat a lot of times it is concave and the nut just barely touches the rod cap to hold it

Holley 670 TA arrived today. I opted to save a few $$ and bought a refurb from Holley Perf on eBay.

Seller holleyperformance has a rating of 99.8% with 13703 items sold so I figured it was worth a shot. Saved nearly $200 off Summits price for same PN

From the listing:

"This is an official Holley Performance Factory Refurbished Carburetor listing.

Factory Refurbished carbs are NOT old worn-out carbs that have been rebuilt. They are carbs that were returned under warranty. When these carbs are returned, we check them out and most of the time there is nothing wrong with them. Generally, they were simply adjusted out of working range by the installer.

Since these carbs may show signs of a previous installation, our policy is not to sell them as new. Rather than scrapping them, we are making them directly available to the public. Not only does this help us control the costs of our new carbs, it allows you to get a great deal on a like-new carburetor!

Factory Refurbished carbs have undergone a thorough inspection. Any damaged parts that would effect performance have been replaced and the carbs are solvent cleaned before being wet-flow-tested on Holley’s state-of-the-art flow benches allowing them to be recalibrated to new carb specs. Factory Refurbished carbs may have scratches, blemishes, and other visual flaws from previous installation."

What oil pan are you going to use? I like the larger capacity of the Milodon one that Bulltear and others sell but don't love the crazy price! I also wonder how durable it will be on the trail without a skid plate. Any other options out there besides the stock AMC?

What oil pan are you going to use? I like the larger capacity of the Milodon one that Bulltear and others sell but don't love the crazy price! I also wonder how durable it will be on the trail without a skid plate. Any other options out there besides the stock AMC?

For now I'll just be using the stock pan, but adding 6qts of oil...per just about everybody on The AMC Forum. A deep pan is on the short list though an long with Bulltears serpentine kit.

I have to ask you man, why would those guys run an additional quart of oil in a stock pan? Nearly everyone else in the performance world runs a deeper pan with the standard quantity of oil to keep it from becoming a chocolate milkshake from the crankshaft. Who wants a bunch of air-entrained oil being pumped to their bearings?

Just curious as to their reasoning.

Shawn

__________________Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.

I always thought the reason for a deeper pan was to hold more oil, so the engine never sucks it dry under high RPMs.

Matt

If the pan is getting pumped dry, oil drain-back is the issue, not the amount of oil. If it isn't getting back to the pan, it's either filled up to the top of the valve covers and/or flying around the crankshaft like a horizontal, chocolate tornado getting whipped full of air.

It needs to be sitting in the pan, away from the crank where it can cool and expel any air that it picked up on the way down. Air makes a poor hydrodynamic wedge in the bearings and it has a habit of compressing in hydraulic lifters.

Again, just curious as to their thinking

Shawn

__________________Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.

IIRC, the OE pan is the same pan that was used on the police packaged Javelins, with a slight difference with the baffle? AMC apparently was putting 6qts of oil in those from the factory. Just about everybody over there, with some really built motors, runs 6qts in their 401s with stock pans. I'll try to copy/paste some posts later today.

I've read thru some of the AMC forum threads, and I'm not sure about the 6-qt theory. I suspect the police cars used the larger filter, therefore the manuals recommended 6. They also had an extra baffle to help with sloshing. The Jeep manuals say to use 5 qts with the shorter filter.

Here's a pic of the stock oil pan with 4 qts of oil. As you can see, the oil is right to the top of the baffle. If memory serves the crank weights are only about 3/8" from the baffle. So, 4 in the pan and 1 in the filter (and elsewhere) seems about right to me.

The 6-qt theory is just another case of shade-tree mechanics thinking they are smarter than the people who designed these engines, IMO.