1. Disconnect one of the eye cups from the bridge strap2. Drill a small rat hole at the base of each nose-cutout. (Big enough for 6 strands of 30awg silicone wire3. Cut the following pieces of 30awg Silicone Wire-- 2 x 6" Red-- 1 x 8" Red-- 2 x 6" Black-- 1 x 8" Black-- 1 x 6" White-- 1 x 8" White4. Strip and tin all your Silicone wires6. Cut a 3/4" long piece of 1/4" Black Heat Shrink tubing7. Run the 3, 8" lengths through the heat shrink tubing, then push the tubing & wires over the exposed bridge strap8. Reconnect both cups to the bridge strap9. Run the 3, 8" lengths into the left cup rat-hole.10. Solder the following:-- Black to any "GND" pad-- Red to any "VCC" pad-- White to "IN" pad11. Run 1 x 6" black and 1 x 6" red into the left cup rat-hole12. Solder the following:-- Black to the remaining "GND" pad-- Red to the remaining "VCC" pad13. Solder the black and red wires to a battery connector from the charging harness14. Pull back the slack wire from the left cup15. Run the other side of the 8" wires into the rat-hole on the right cup.16. Solder the following:-- Black to any "GND" pad-- Red to any "VCC" pad-- White to the "OUT" pad17. Run the remaining 6" black, red and white wires into the right-cup rat-hole.18. Solder the following:-- Black to the remaining "GND" pad-- Red to the remaining "VCC" pad-- White to the "In" pad19. Solder the other ends of those wires to the Arduino:-- Black to "GND"-- Red to "VIN"-- White to "D3"

Test Programming

We're using the "100 Lights" code example from Episode 173* We need to change the Digital Pin to "3"* We need to change the number of LEDs to "16"* We can play with the brightness