The Versace woman is off to war. She’s an animal, a primal monster of sorts. She’s full of confidence, on both the inside and out. Donatella Versace made that very clear on her runway today. The opening look featured a leggy Raquel Zimmermann in an olive green coat dress kept shut with a striped webbed belt, balancing atop military-esque platform booties. The look was rough and hard and the impeccable tailoring was nothing short of fierce and sexy.

The rest of the collection wasn’t shy of that caliber either. There were boxy uniform style coats and jackets overtop barely there bandeau tops and short shorts. Wide legged pants made an appearance, made out of camo-jaguar silks with matching jackets and pullovers. The collection even had flat slide shoes and sandals (who knew Donatella even knew such a shoe existed!). For those who still seek out the over-the-top sexy Versace we’re so accustomed too, there were barely there silk and lace dresses, with slits well above the thigh to fulfill your need.

I’ll admit it though, I’m not a huge fan of camouflage prints on clothing, especially of such a high fashion show, but what I saw today was almost refreshing to see them used in such a way. They played with the color pallet, playing with bright neon purples, lime greens, and muted yellows. This collection should help sales as well, as many of the pieces of the collection seemed appropriate for every day use. I love a super sexy body hugging dress as much as the next person, but you find your true customer base with the wide-legged pants and blazers. Whatever the inspiration was that brought Donatella to this collection (probably one of the best of her career), we applaud her.

It was a new take on the classics at Prada this season. In full on Prada style, Miuccia presented a neo-retro collection worthy of all generations. Coats and skirts were spliced together with varying stripes of fabrics and textures, color patterns worthy of a 70s Vogue cover. There was also tweed sets, overlaid with sheer panels, adding depth and youthful playfulness to an often aged outfit. Angora style sleeveless sweaters were tucked into skirts, even hidden underneath sheer boxy dresses adorned with gems. The lines were precise, almost surgical. Coats flowed into skirts, lengthening the body.

There was no lack of Prada exuberance that’s for sure. As the collection neared the end, the fabrics seemed to hit the wallets harder. What was previously seen in leather suddenly was shown in fur. The coats lengthened, metallic snakeskin filling in the spots. The jewels and gems, intricately fused into flowers, covered the jacket and suit set of the last two looks, ending on a high note.

The accessories were perhaps the only element lacking pure sophistication on the runway. The earrings were large ballooned spheres, almost like something you would purchase in your local party store for your next soiree. Models shoulders were covered in netting, cuffed up high around the neck. The shoes and bags followed the same similar styling of the garments themselves, color-blocked and striped versions of iconic Prada styles. But don’t worry, they were so new in vibe that even the most tenured of Prada clientele will be clamoring to add them to their collection.

The days of overtly sexual Gucci are long gone. Well, at least as long as Alessandro Michele has his say about it. For now, Gucci is a mythical, exceedingly romantic world. I’ve seen his past collection, similar in style to this one, criticized for its old-worldly personality, called grandmother chic. Perhaps in this world over over-sexualization, it’s exactly what we need. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good thigh-high slit and peek-a-boo cutouts as much as the next person, but it’s a refreshing and needed change of pace.

The collection was a little bit crazy, with just a hint of whimsy. Ruffles adorned cuffs, collars, and hems, and we even saw embroidery made to fool the eye into ruffles that weren’t actually there. Michele made use of an archive of vintage fabrics, with prints so radical and profound it took minutes of purveying to fully take in the scene. The use of embroidery is what really stole the show. Gowns were covered from head to toe in magnificent tropical scenes. Pineapples, koi fish, lily pads, and parrots were just a few of the options you’ll find this spring when you step into a Gucci store. It was a playful and fun scene.

Don’t forget about the accessories as well, the true money makers in the fashion world today. Models pushed over-sized glass frames adorned with rhinestones up their bridges, while clutching onto heritage style handbags, knuckles covered in excessive amounts of costume jewels. We saw a re-interpretation of the must have fur lined slide from the last season, as well the introduction of a platform sandal. Blouses were bound at the neck with scarves and playful, almost comic sized ties embroidered with cutesy fruits and jeweled bugs.

With the claims of increased sales and revenue over Micheles inaugural collection with the company, it seems that they will have another hit when this collection hits store floors. While the obviously sexy Gucci is of the past, this style is sexy in its own way. I know that I’m personally already coveting many pieces from this show, and can’t wait to see what they come up with next.