After a very busy weekend 10 of 12 MFOS boards are complete, maybe 2 more weeks for making panels and finishing the wiring, I am hoping in the mean time to figure how to power the thing. I was considering using a blacet supply and distribution boards, but then why suck up the extra power if the MFOS can work at 12v?? Any suggestions for a nice PSU and distribution system?

I am working on my own 15V psu using adjustable regs 317/337's, so that could be adapted for 12V as well. I'm not as fast a builder as you though, but eventually I'll do a schem and a pcb layout for it.
Will post here when I do.

Hmm, I actually thought those Power One's cost more. But then, there are several different models. Lotsa people seem to prefer these over homemade supplies, but at 40-50, even 100$, what have they got that I can't DIY a lot cheaper? Are they that much more stable and well regulated? Seems hard to believe for the price...

Well this is my first serious DIY project, and i am going to opt for a prefab PSU. I dont mind paying the extra $$ at all and I want to know from the moment go that the PSU is functioning as it is meant to. I think it will make the troublshooting process all that much easier to eliminate the PSU. For the next rack of CGS maybe I will try my own. I guess I shouldnt be such a wimp about mains power as I rewire lamps and other gizmos constantly at my job but for all my precious hours of work I want confidence in the supply.

Hey, I can understand people who wan't to concentrate on building actual modules - I'm just wondering what's inside a psu that sells for 50$, and if it's really so much better than anything I can build as cheap, or cheaper.
Is it just a regular linear psu, or is it smps? Does it use special regulators, expensive caps/diodes/doodads or somesuch?

I reckon it just comes down to paying for someone to provide a service. Look how much a Serge panel costs, or even a MOTM KIT. A bloody ton of moolah, and they are populated with the same stuff we are sticking in our DIY projects ( I think). Tho I am not using any pricey Bourns pots or the like. While we are on the subject of costs and such... WHO THE HELL CAN AFFORD TO USE FRONT PANEL EXPRESS. By god they are expensive!!! Like $250 bucks for a soundlab panel...you gotta be kidding!!!! Thats why I made my panel from a piece of masonite out of a dumpster, with handpainted face. It sure dont look like a Moog, but it definitely looks like MINE!!!

i did alot of research before i built my power supply, there's not much to it really [well, there is and there isn't, that is]. a good schematic for one is thomas henry's "platinum power supply" which apparently was published in a Nuts & Volts. there is some good reading material on rectification and ripple and whatnot at jim patchell's site. i got a book with all them useful formulas in it too.

i basically salvaged all the parts i used, so i built it for very little, but even buying all parts new it wouldnt have cost more than 15$ orso.

i made a PCB layout for it if anyones interested. one version has +/- whatever plus a +5 or whatevr, the other one is just a bipolar.

That's the power supply I'm using - bought it as a kit from MAP. I suppose I should qualify my statement as to not building one - I don't make PCB's, and I'm not terribly gung-ho about making one on perf or stripboard. I'll certainly build one on PCB if I've got one.

A power supply is something I'd just as soon purchase as build - no way I'm going to mod one, and that's the whole fun of building for me

I did make my own distribution board, though, out of perf with a breadboard type layout.

Here's a pic of the power supply and the distribution board. The power supply is housed in a chassis for a communications service monitor power supply they were giving away at my work place.

WHO THE HELL CAN AFFORD TO USE FRONT PANEL EXPRESS. By god they are expensive!!! Like $250 bucks for a soundlab panel...you gotta be kidding!!!!

i can afford this, and i love the panels! i let them made my SL front panel and it cost about 70 EURO's (about 100$). http://modular.fonik.de/soundlab/soundlab.fpd
the average price for my eurorack modular panels is about 23 EURO's (about 30$) and it's worth it.
there're some ways to reduce the price:
(1) colored engraving is expensive so i chose black anodized panels. then there's no need to color the engraving...
(2) all kind of graphics is expensive. it's much cheaper to import hpgl graphics for this kind of stuff (dials etc.)...
(3) you pay for every item, so reduce the count of items by using ONE text object with multiple lines for text in columns....

I'm right with you, Scott and numbernone, I'm a first timer on the PSU so I'm following this thread. I don't wanna make one the first time, maybe a kit. What about these http://www.paia.com/fracrak.htm I thought about ordering the +/- 12 for starters and maybe even a fracrack. I have five modules about to be finished!!_________________"your stripes are killer bro"

those regulated paia PSUs ain't too fantastic looking as a kit at 300/200 mA.. plus they are half-wave rectified it looks like. in my opinion if your going to spend 35$ plus on one, getcha a good one at at least 1A to power all your current plans plus future ones.

designing and building a power supply is not that hard... designing and building a really good supply (stable, clean, low-ripple) is an art form. a noisy supply will sabotage all the care and expense you put into the modules themselves, this is one place where i don't skimp. had fantastic luck w/ power one supplies, they're pretty easy to find surplus or on ebay; even retail they're a good deal. if you open up a serge power supply, guess what you'll find....

I normally don't build power supplies for the simple fact that lethal voltage/current makes me skittery. I'll build from a kit, but that's as far as it goes.

yeah always super careful when working around exposed mains, never do it while drinkin', don't be a path to return, etc etc.

recently i did a repair on my oscilloscope's CRT grid-bias circuitry [1800V].. i did not discharge the HV caps first and i can tell you it was the most aware of what i was doing i have been in a while... eeeeeeeeeeeehehehehhhhhhhhh

Hey thanks for the info on the paia stuff. I reckon I might order the Mouser one above unless anyone has any other suggestions? I'll look on ebay as well. I reread the post any good places to find them surplus?_________________"your stripes are killer bro"

The thing which costs the most in a DIY PSU is the transformer itself. A nice 18-0-18 @ 4A torroidal like the one I'm putting in the Sorcerer will set you back about AU$50, unless you're lucky enough to find something similar on chuck out day. Next would be the caps, the main electrolytic ripple filters, 2 of those will add another AU$10.
The main points to remember are; -
1. Work from a trusted schematic unless you know the maths behind it.
2. All exposed metal work must be earthed.
3. No drugs or alchohol until it's tested.
4. Build it as if it's a bomb! (ie very carefully)

I'll spare you all the stories of the 5 times I've bitten by the 240V AC power python. Let's just say it's an experience everyone can do without! _________________What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there.

This is a custom designed non-wall-wart type supply in an aluminum case. It features 6 built-in module connectors and a switchable 120/220/240VAC input for overseas operation. Very conservatively rated, it can supply +15V@500 mA and -15V@ 500 mA. Audiophile Grade!
The PS500 is predrilled to mount on the back of the Frac Rack or in a separate location such as the bottom of your SKB box or other rack mount container.

Add the PSCONN board and connecting cable below to connect more modules.

Fully compatible with MOTM systems also.

Assembled and tested.
$89 ($4)
Comes with US power cord. For foreign orders, no cord is provided. Use a standard IEC type available at your local electronic store.

I'll spare you all the stories of the 5 times I've bitten by the 240V AC power python. Let's just say it's an experience everyone can do without!

Not meant to discomfort, and it's certainly less lethal than 240 V, but I can assure you that with 36 Volts at 4A one can have some really nice fireworks as well _________________Jan
(yawning shifts perceived pitch, making things more interesting)

Yes, very true.
I forgot to say that I haven't had any "incidents" with electrocution since my early 20s. I just have way too much respect for it these days to even come close. Also, the older you get the higher the chance that your heart would spit the dummy._________________What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there.

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