Pie Hard

A New Neapolitan Pizza Joint Does Midtown

Because sure enough, another gift straight from the motherland is coming in the form of Varuni
Napoli, a massive new pizzeria with an Antico vet in the kitchen and prosecco on tap in the dining
room, opening next Wednesday in Midtown.

It’s sort of a deceivingly big place. Once you pass the pickup window on the street and enter a giant
room with a bar and an open kitchen, you might assume that’s the extent of it. But keep going. There’s
still a four-top chef’s table. A back patio. Communal tables in a hallway lined with tomato and olive oil
cans...

Your goal is to land one of the 24 seats at the pizza bar. Ask for a Bastardo (pepperoni, spicy pork sausage, buffalo mozzarella).
They’ll throw it in an imported brick oven while you procure some prosecco on tap or a draft Moretti.
Seems like a nice use of your time.

And they’ll be open for lunch on the weekends. So if it’s nice out, maybe bypass everything for that
shady little tree-lined patio tucked away in the back.