I'm guessing this boost controller will account for the 1/3 of a second shift between gears? That's the only thing I would worry about, and I'm pretty sure you have already thought of that good sir! All that spooled up boost and race fuel and nitrous plus 1200++ ponies then disengaging/engaging the clutch in the mix seems, to me, like a TON of tweaking will be called for.

This is a boost controller, arguably the best available today for controlling boost through a myriad of settings... It can be set for time, rpm, gear etc... It can be set to increase or decrease the boost in any gear and at any rpm... for example... If you running a crinkle wall slick, you can launch really hard and when the car is going through the shake zone, the boost can be retarded and help prevent wheel hop, then as the tires settle down, the boost comes back on to full pressure... and the nice thing is the available variety of settings... Like Bruce said, it will take some time to dial it in, but once it's there, it only takes minor tweaks for track conditions... I posted up about it in another thread and Ted came on and said it is the best on the market... I tend to agree... It's expensive and requires lots of wiring, but thats ok... if it saves a motor and driveline at the same time it's lowering times tremendously, then I'm all for it...

There is no need for changing springs or manually dialing the boost... you set it, and it does the rest... we are also installing a shift light and we'll short shift 1st gear a little and then progressively get a little higher in each successive gear... first gear spins up so dang fast it's unreal.....

The Nitrous will be used to make up the difference from what we can get on the boost with the current fuel system capacity... With the fuel cell under the hood, and 117 octane race fuel to mix with the nitrous, we should be able to easily get up into the 1300-1400 hp range I'm hoping for... on the ground... I could live with 1200 but... for the mile, I want all I can get...

We kept waiting for the AMS2000 to come out figuring by the time the SST was done it would be out. So we finally found someone who's 'soon' was longer than ours. (It STILL says that on their webpage 18 months later). Went with the 1000 which is an incredible unit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by garcmol

I'm guessing this boost controller will account for the 1/3 of a second shift between gears? That's the only thing I would worry about, and I'm pretty sure you have already thought of that good sir! All that spooled up boost and race fuel and nitrous plus 1200++ ponies then disengaging/engaging the clutch in the mix seems, to me, like a TON of tweaking will be called for.

The boost controller can save your motor with a manual trans. It reacts much faster than a human. (It has a 50 MHz processor) It uses direct clutch and shift inputs. It has a dedicated shift based mode R can use.

Very cool! The shift points, to me, and the clutch engaging/disengaging seems it would be the most violent stage on anything with boost. Now, next question, what happens to the spooled boost with 1200++ ponies when you do shift? Is there a dip? Or, at the hp level, would you even notice a dip??

Very cool! The shift points, to me, and the clutch engaging/disengaging seems it would be the most violent stage on anything with boost. Now, next question, what happens to the spooled boost with 1200++ ponies when you do shift? Is there a dip? Or, at the hp level, would you even notice a dip??

It loses all possible boost, but R compensates by ripping out a huge methanol fart directly to the turbo intakes... Sorry, had a Mental Squad relapse...

Very cool! The shift points, to me, and the clutch engaging/disengaging seems it would be the most violent stage on anything with boost. Now, next question, what happens to the spooled boost with 1200++ ponies when you do shift? Is there a dip? Or, at the hp level, would you even notice a dip??

There are a couple of ways to address this...
1. Deal with the dip in boost... As you lift to shift, the air flow through the motor diminishes, and consequently you loose boost... Not necessarily a bad thing as coming off the clutch at full power can blow the tires off... Loss of traction and it's inherent problems.... Bear in mind right now on my street tires, I can do a 110 mph burnout.... Now add 400-500 more hp... The dip in boost allows you time to set the tires with traction as you spool back up... Which with the size turbos I have, and 427 cubic inches is almost immediately...
2. Use a no lift shift box... If I understand it correctly is a hard rev limiter box that allows you to keep the throttle on the floor while shifting, and it cuts out whatever is necessary to prevent over revving the motor... Don't quote me on that as I'm still learning about it... I think some people call it a stutter box, and the only time I saw someone using one on these cars the motor cratered due to using it wrong....it's supposed to be used and started after the burnout, and this one was engaged for the burnout... mental error is all. I'm not bad mouthing the person it happened to, lord knows it could happen to me just ad easily...but with what we have in these motors, mental errors are very very costly...it's the nature of the beast....cubic dollars and green hp....not environmentally green either...
3. Learn to do partial lift shifts... Where instead of coming completely off the gas, you just lift enough to keep from over revving the motor while shifting... Probably the hardest to do consistently...

As B mentioned, the electronic controllers today are way faster than us... And for the hard headed folks like me that prefer a manual trans in my car, well... They are the way to faster times and more consistent runs...

__________________

If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall.
Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

Here are a few pictures of Brandi taken by a professional photographer. There were as you will see two cars, the second one being Booger belonging to Da Hose. I wish to thank Kyle Gilmour for arranging the photographer.

There are a couple of ways to address this...
1. Deal with the dip in boost... As you lift to shift, the air flow through the motor diminishes, and consequently you loose boost... Not necessarily a bad thing as coming off the clutch at full power can blow the tires off... Loss of traction and it's inherent problems.... Bear in mind right now on my street tires, I can do a 110 mph burnout.... Now add 400-500 more hp... The dip in boost allows you time to set the tires with traction as you spool back up... Which with the size turbos I have, and 427 cubic inches is almost immediately...
2. Use a no lift shift box... If I understand it correctly is a hard rev limiter box that allows you to keep the throttle on the floor while shifting, and it cuts out whatever is necessary to prevent over revving the motor... Don't quote me on that as I'm still learning about it... I think some people call it a stutter box, and the only time I saw someone using one on these cars the motor cratered due to using it wrong....it's supposed to be used and started after the burnout, and this one was engaged for the burnout... mental error is all. I'm not bad mouthing the person it happened to, lord knows it could happen to me just ad easily...but with what we have in these motors, mental errors are very very costly...it's the nature of the beast....cubic dollars and green hp....not environmentally green either...
3. Learn to do partial lift shifts... Where instead of coming completely off the gas, you just lift enough to keep from over revving the motor while shifting... Probably the hardest to do consistently...

As B mentioned, the electronic controllers today are way faster than us... And for the hard headed folks like me that prefer a manual trans in my car, well... They are the way to faster times and more consistent runs...

Yeah there's that as well... Ild rather be known as a skilled driver in a fast car than a point and shoot freeloader... Step on the gas, steer, done.... Yes I realize you have to bump that lil lever every once in a while....

__________________

If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall.
Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

Yeah there's that as well... Ild rather be known as a skilled driver in a fast car than a point and shoot freeloader... Step on the gas, close eyes, squeal like a school girl, steer, done.... Yes I realize you have to bump that lil lever every once in a while....