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Distributed in furtherance
of the Acts of Congress
of May 8 and June 30, 1914.
Employment and program
opportunities are offered to
all people regardless of
race, color, national origin,
sex, age, or disability.
North Carolina State University,
North Carolina A& T State
University, U. S. Department of
Agriculture, and local
governments cooperating.
College of Agriculture and Life Sciences · NC State University
School of Agriculture and Allied Sciences and Environmental Sciences · NC A& T State University
Carpetgrass
L a w n M a i n t e n a n c e C a l e n d a r
These suggested management practices
will help you care for your lawn through-out
the year. Location, terrain, soil type
and condition, age of lawn, previous lawn
care, and other factors affect turf perfor-mance,
so adjust the following manage-ment
practices and dates to suit your
particular lawn.
M a r c h t h r o u g h M a y
Mowing Mow the lawn to 1 ½ inches when it
turns green in the spring. Do not let it grow taller
than 2 ¼ inches. Use a rotary mower to remove the
seedheads. NEVER burn carpetgrass to remove
excessive debris.
Fertilization DO NOT apply nitrogen now. Have
the soil tested every third year to determine
nutrient and lime requirements. ( Contact your
Cooperative Extension center for details.)
Watering Make sure your lawn gets 1 inch of
water each week. If it doesn’t rain enough, you
may need to water. In dry, sandy soils, you may
need to water ½ inch every third or fourth day.
Proper irrigation helps prevent or reduce problems
in the summer.
Insect Control Check for white grubs, mole
crickets, armyworms, and sod webworms. On dry,
well- drained soils, also check for nematodes. If
you suspect nematode damage, ask your Coopera-tive
Extension agent how to submit a sample for
analysis.
Weed Control Unless your Cooperative Exten-sion
agent suggests otherwise, do not make a
broadcast application of herbicide. Carpetgrass is
sensitive to most herbicides, and most herbicides
are not labeled for use on carpetgrass. Manage
weeds by hand pulling and mowing.
Renovation Replant bare areas no earlier than
April 15 ( or when average daytime temperatures
are continually above 60oF). Use 2 pounds of seed
per 1,000 square feet or 1 ½ bushels of sprigs per
1,000 square feet. ( One square yard of turf pulled
apart is equivalent to one bushel of sprigs.) It’s
easier to spread seed if you mix it with fine sand.
Rake seeds into the soil or cover the seeds lightly
with light soil. Keep the seedbed continually
moist, but not soggy, with several light waterings
daily for several weeks. Seeds should germination
in 7 to 10 days. Continue to water regularly for
several weeks to keep seedlings from dying.
Thatch Removal Thatch ( layer of undecomposed
grass) is usually not a problem unless you
overfertilize or overwater. If thatch is thicker than
½ inch, power rake ( vertical mow) lightly several
weeks after spring greenup. Space blades 2 to 3
inches apart and ¼ inch deep in one direction. Do
not use a vertical mower with a 1- inch blade
spacing or you will severely damage your lawn.
J u n e t h r o u g h A u g u s t
Mowing Mow grass to 1 ½ inches with a rotary
mower, every 10 to 14 days, or before grass grows
above 2 ¼ inches tall.
Fertilization Fertilize with ½ pound of nitrogen
per 1,000 square feet in mid- June. A second
application in mid- August may enhance your
lawn if you live along the coast. Use a slow-release
fertilizer to help reduce or prevent Brown
( Large) Patch Disease.
You need to apply ½ pound of nitrogen per 1,000
square feet, but how much fertilizer do you need
to buy? Divide 50 by the FIRST number on the
fertilizer bag. ( The first number always represents
nitrogen content.) For example, if you’ve got a 5-
5- 15 fertilizer, divide 50 by 5 and you get 10. That
means you need to buy 10 pounds of fertilizer for
every 1,000 square feet of lawn.
Watering Follow guidelines for March through
May.

Distributed in furtherance
of the Acts of Congress
of May 8 and June 30, 1914.
Employment and program
opportunities are offered to
all people regardless of
race, color, national origin,
sex, age, or disability.
North Carolina State University,
North Carolina A& T State
University, U. S. Department of
Agriculture, and local
governments cooperating.
College of Agriculture and Life Sciences · NC State University
School of Agriculture and Allied Sciences and Environmental Sciences · NC A& T State University
Carpetgrass
L a w n M a i n t e n a n c e C a l e n d a r
These suggested management practices
will help you care for your lawn through-out
the year. Location, terrain, soil type
and condition, age of lawn, previous lawn
care, and other factors affect turf perfor-mance,
so adjust the following manage-ment
practices and dates to suit your
particular lawn.
M a r c h t h r o u g h M a y
Mowing Mow the lawn to 1 ½ inches when it
turns green in the spring. Do not let it grow taller
than 2 ¼ inches. Use a rotary mower to remove the
seedheads. NEVER burn carpetgrass to remove
excessive debris.
Fertilization DO NOT apply nitrogen now. Have
the soil tested every third year to determine
nutrient and lime requirements. ( Contact your
Cooperative Extension center for details.)
Watering Make sure your lawn gets 1 inch of
water each week. If it doesn’t rain enough, you
may need to water. In dry, sandy soils, you may
need to water ½ inch every third or fourth day.
Proper irrigation helps prevent or reduce problems
in the summer.
Insect Control Check for white grubs, mole
crickets, armyworms, and sod webworms. On dry,
well- drained soils, also check for nematodes. If
you suspect nematode damage, ask your Coopera-tive
Extension agent how to submit a sample for
analysis.
Weed Control Unless your Cooperative Exten-sion
agent suggests otherwise, do not make a
broadcast application of herbicide. Carpetgrass is
sensitive to most herbicides, and most herbicides
are not labeled for use on carpetgrass. Manage
weeds by hand pulling and mowing.
Renovation Replant bare areas no earlier than
April 15 ( or when average daytime temperatures
are continually above 60oF). Use 2 pounds of seed
per 1,000 square feet or 1 ½ bushels of sprigs per
1,000 square feet. ( One square yard of turf pulled
apart is equivalent to one bushel of sprigs.) It’s
easier to spread seed if you mix it with fine sand.
Rake seeds into the soil or cover the seeds lightly
with light soil. Keep the seedbed continually
moist, but not soggy, with several light waterings
daily for several weeks. Seeds should germination
in 7 to 10 days. Continue to water regularly for
several weeks to keep seedlings from dying.
Thatch Removal Thatch ( layer of undecomposed
grass) is usually not a problem unless you
overfertilize or overwater. If thatch is thicker than
½ inch, power rake ( vertical mow) lightly several
weeks after spring greenup. Space blades 2 to 3
inches apart and ¼ inch deep in one direction. Do
not use a vertical mower with a 1- inch blade
spacing or you will severely damage your lawn.
J u n e t h r o u g h A u g u s t
Mowing Mow grass to 1 ½ inches with a rotary
mower, every 10 to 14 days, or before grass grows
above 2 ¼ inches tall.
Fertilization Fertilize with ½ pound of nitrogen
per 1,000 square feet in mid- June. A second
application in mid- August may enhance your
lawn if you live along the coast. Use a slow-release
fertilizer to help reduce or prevent Brown
( Large) Patch Disease.
You need to apply ½ pound of nitrogen per 1,000
square feet, but how much fertilizer do you need
to buy? Divide 50 by the FIRST number on the
fertilizer bag. ( The first number always represents
nitrogen content.) For example, if you’ve got a 5-
5- 15 fertilizer, divide 50 by 5 and you get 10. That
means you need to buy 10 pounds of fertilizer for
every 1,000 square feet of lawn.
Watering Follow guidelines for March through
May.