Luxury train service makes trip through iconic mountains memorable

Rocky Mountaineer, whose luxury trains link Vancouver with Jasper and Banff national parks, offer a three-tier service that makes observing some of Canada's most impressive scenery very easy.

These trains have great appeal to affinity groups and overseas visitors. Specifically, Australians and others who've travelled great distances to reach Canada and in the midst of an extended journey; and those who simply want to take in the views without piloting their car, are frequent patrons.

Since these trains feature fine dining and very comfortable seating, when skies and views are clear, Rocky Mountaineer can be a very satisfying way to go. Designed for maximum viewing, trains operate between the last week in May and early October and only during daylight. Therefore the trip requires two days with an in-between overnight in Kamloops, B.C. On the second day, trains head for Jasper or Banff. Next year, Lake Louise is being added.

For many travellers, what essentially is a 36-hour excursion -early morning departures and late afternoon arrivals on both days-is part of a longer northwestern Canadian itinerary. Other components, which Rocky Mountaineer works closely and co-ordinates with, include Fairmont Hotels where many passengers stay after their train journey.

Another popular option is a threeand-a-half hour ride between Vancouver and Whistler, B.C. This can be completed in one day or paired with a Whistler overnight. Yet another popular trip runs between Vancouver and Jasper on a threeday, two overnight route with stops in Whistler and Quesnel, B.C. Other passengers incorporate Holland American Line Vancouver/Alaska cruises into their itineraries.

On each two-day Rocky Mountaineer train, Gold Leaf passengers ride in luxuriously appointed, double deck, and clear-roofed cars. On top, there are two-by-two seats providing a virtually uninterrupted outside views. Downstairs, there's the dining section, with four-person sections next to large viewing windows.

Tasty breakfasts and lunches are served each day. Gold Leaf breakfast choices include Eggs Benedict, or scrambled eggs topped with smoked salmon and servings of lemon chive crème fraiche and kelp caviar.

Lunch main courses include wild British Columbia sockeye salmon, black tiger prawns, and braised short ribs. Not only is wine and beer available at all meals, but also upstairs at their seats, passengers enjoy unlimited gratis alcoholic beverages.

Gold Leaf passengers also have access to a compact open area at the rear of each car. This is important for photographers since pictures taken there are not shot through the reflective glass next to passenger seats. Gold Leaf passengers also have their luggage checked through and delivered to their Kamloops overnight hotel, then collected for delivery to the passenger's next hotel after the conclusion of their trip. Incidentally, all luggage is carried by trucks paralleling train routes.

A spiral staircase connects the upper and lower levels of Gold Leaf cars. Physically challenged Gold Leaf passengers can also enjoy the ride, since each car also has an electronically powered elevator that connects the tiers. Rocky Mountaineer also provides wheelchair-bound passengers with special units that are sufficiently narrow to manoeuvre train aisles. (The passenger's own wheelchairs are stored and returned upon arrivals.) Bathrooms also are configured to cater to the physically challenged.

Of course, weather is the real wild card on any Rocky Mountaineer journey. For example, on sunny, bright days on the Jasper route, one should see the peak of Mt. Robson, at nearly 13,000 feet the highest in the Canadian Rockies. Also viewable should be plenty of other snowcapped vistas, plus a bevy of wildlife including bear and moose that, when conditions are dry, often graze near the tracks.

But on wet days, when clouds cover the mountains and animals don't venture out, the train ride becomes a proverbial "day at sea," with pine trees and the base of mountains dominating the views. Then, while its still quite comfortable, the ride is somewhat disappointing.

Indeed, Rocky Mountaineer is probably best for those who really like to relax on long train rides, and/or appreciate or savour cruise ship life.

The gracious and helpful staff- who regularly narrate and draw attention to upcoming sights - cater to their guests in a manner quite reminiscent of that on quality vessels.