Zero olms (resistance) would indicate a good filament, high numbers would mean bad bulb. No voltage (or light) when wired to power source would indicate bad bulb. Does your Volt-Ohm meter have an audible continuity function? It would beep if making circuit (good bulb).

I guess it depends on your point of view but zero ohms always meant continuity. Or in other words: an electrical path. Infinity or very high ohm readings indicated an open circuit.Wire (theoretically) would have zero ohms.I think the terminology gets turned around sometimes because the older analog meters read right to left for ohms. A dead short such as touching the leads together would give a full scale reading and an open would give no deflection of the needle (interpreted as zero?)

BigdogIf you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

danovercash wrote:Zero olms (resistance) would indicate a good filament, high numbers would mean bad bulb. No voltage (or light) when wired to power source would indicate bad bulb. Does your Volt-Ohm meter have an audible continuity function? It would beep if making circuit (good bulb).

Sorry, I probably said it incorrectly. I used a digital volt meter to check the filiments. I used the ohm setting to check the continuity. An audable signal would have indicated the filiment was good but I got no tone - indicating the filiment was broken.

A few years ago I purchased 3 of the sealed beam conversion kits from Tom at TM for my 55 cub. It came with all the parts to convert the sealed beam to the old style. I haven't seen them listed for a while. The kit was about the same price as a sealed beam and if the bulb ever goes bad, all I have to do is get a new $3.00 bulb.

cubbrian wrote:A few years ago I purchased 3 of the sealed beam conversion kits from Tom at TM for my 55 cub. It came with all the parts to convert the sealed beam to the old style. I haven't seen them listed for a while. The kit was about the same price as a sealed beam and if the bulb ever goes bad, all I have to do is get a new $3.00 bulb.

Yeah I loaded up on them and just didn't get enough before Tom discontinued the kits.

I'm scratchin' my head here, but I think if a guy was determined enough, you could do your own conversions using the existing burnt out sealed beam. If I remember right, those sealed beams are nothing more than a reflector with a socket and bulb, and then a lens is glued on. If you can get the lens to let go from the reflector, you can then change out the bulb. A new rubber gasket for the sealed beam should finish the job.