if the roads are reasonably well lit then you don't need the brightest

many swear by Fenix torches which are very bright and good value for money and can be attached to bike bars. I use Exposure lights but I have no lights on some of my commute roads so need as much light as possible

You need something bright enough for the conditions I suppose. If it's several miles in the pitch black then that's either going to be something expensive (maybe £150 plus - not really in touch with what decent lights cost now) if you want to ride more than 10mph or else you are going to be shopping for cheap chinese LED torches. I use the chinese torches backed up by a Use Joystick (the smallest model) - the USE is more reliable and has longer run time but for my eyes isn't enough to ride fast in the dark - the bigger models give the best of both worlds but aren't cheap.

Thanks, The Fenix ones look pretty good and aren't too expensive. I think it's more being visble to the traffic than actually needing to see the road. Although having seen the amount of stickers that are stuck to lamp posts telling me they're switched off might change my mind...

I'm going to buy a high vis jacket which will help the visibility issues.

Hey guys, im thinking about upgrading my wheels for next year but have no real idea of what is or isn't a sensible investment.

I'm currently running shimano HS10s which came with the bike. Thus far they've been good and survived a winter of outdoor riding well.....was wondering if anyone could suggest what would be a sensible progression from this point

They're currently on a Specialized Tarmac Comp. Though mine is the model before the one in that link and came with RS10s rather than the Aksium wheels that are mentioned in that review.

I haven't really set a budget as yet because I know very little about wheels so don't know what I would have to pay to realise any sort of return on the investment but the cheaper they are the more I have to spend on other stuff!

I was planning on using the RS10s over the winter and hen swapping over once the weather has improved and we're into the race season. I was thinking something with a deeper rim might be appropriate but hadn't got much further than that.....

if so, go with some deep rims - you'll get more return from them. downside can be price - a good quality pair like will set you back the best part of a grand although look at the Planet-X deep rims which do come in a lot cheaper. don't be tempted by carbon rims or tubs which just add extra £ and faff to the equation - stick with clinchers as they're as good and more manageable.

alternatively, if you don't want deep rims there are loads of good lightweight race wheels in that £500 to £1K a pair league from the likes of Fulcrum, Mavic, Easton, Ritchey etc

Cosmic Carbones or something along those lines would fit the bill - standard aluminium rim with a carbon fairing so as strong as a normal wheel and normal braking but aero - the downsides are they aren't as light as an all carbon deep section wheel (but they aren't bad especially compared to cheaper wheels) and they aren't cheap. There are plenty available second hand though if you are willing to wait for the right set and take a chance.

any recommendations as to puncture repair/gunk sprays Got some tubs and need some back up if I puncture. I realise it isnt going to help if i get a split etc bit something reliable just to seal the hole enough to allow me to inflate the tub enough to get home,

Popsider/FB - do deep wheels make that much difference. Comparing Cosmic Elite (30mm) and Cosmic Carbone SL (52mm). The Carbones are 30g cheaper but twice the price. Does it really make that much difference??

They'll make a difference - whether it's worth it depends on how much it means to you and how much money you have.

From what I've read 30mm rims aren't really significantly aero and the extra rim will add weight but they should be stiff and strong and Mavics are generally reliable in my experience - there's more to how fast a wheel is than the rim depth too. Have a look at some reviews on the internet.

plum - I used some Vittoria pitstop sealant and I reckon it would have worked if the tyre wasn't so badly cut - as it was it would still hold 50psi so could get you home. Saw some similar stuff in Decathlon the other week so that may be a cheaper source is there is one near you.

Plum - you could also try Stan juice which is a latex juice that hardens on contact with air. it's used mainly with MTB wheels when you want to go tubeless so should work with tubs. however, unless you have a removable valve in the tub, you wouldn't be able to get it in as it needs to put in wet and before use.

works well with MTB tubeless though

otherwise as pops says - pitstop. I don't run tubs so haven't used it but know of many who says it works fine as a get you home. you may need to add some extra air into the tub with a pump to get a decent pressure after using it.

I still don't understand why people train with tubs though - save them for races and use standard clincher wheels for training. you can be more self sufficient with tubes when you get caught with a puncture

Planet X have an offer on Shimano wheels today - Ultegra tubeless down to £250 from 325 might be worth looking at if you run Shimano and just want a good quality everyday wheel - the Dura Ace equivalent wheels are supposed to be really good. I don't think you have to run them tubeless either - better check first though.

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