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i wish i had some spare cash, would be nice to pull my numbers matching motor and put the one for sale in mine. save some miles on it and could have a lot more fun knowing i would`nt be hurting my numbers matching parts if anything were to happen

i wish i had some spare cash, would be nice to pull my numbers matching motor and put the one for sale in mine. save some miles on it and could have a lot more fun knowing i would`nt be hurting my numbers matching parts if anything were to happen

you don't need a 'DZ' on the pad to have fun with a 302.... remembers the ones (made by boring 283's in the early 60's)... ruled the street in lightweight cars.. but the best way to do this is with a 327 or 350 block and 283 crankshaft... boring a 283 by 1/8" is chancey at best..

remembers the ones (made by boring 283's in the early 60's)... ruled the street in lightweight cars.. but the best way to do this is with a 327 or 350 block and 283 crankshaft... boring a 283 by 1/8" is chancey at best..

Classic old hot rodder's trick, takes me back. I remember the guys in the know would always seek out an early 283 block, apparently they had much thicker walls than later castings and could handle a 0.125" over bore without much risk of hitting water. Can't recall the preferred block casting number(s) though.

remembers the ones (made by boring 283's in the early 60's)... ruled the street in lightweight cars.. but the best way to do this is with a 327 or 350 block and 283 crankshaft... boring a 283 by 1/8" is chancey at best..

Classic old hot rodder's trick, takes me back. I remember the guys in the know would always seek out an early 283 block, apparently they had much thicker walls than later castings and could handle a 0.125" over bore without much risk of hitting water. Can't recall the preferred block casting number(s) though.

I remember hearing two different things.... 1) '59 283 blocks, and 2) Canadian blocks... and I have NO idea how these would be different....?

i wish i had some spare cash, would be nice to pull my numbers matching motor and put the one for sale in mine. save some miles on it and could have a lot more fun knowing i would`nt be hurting my numbers matching parts if anything were to happen

you don't need a 'DZ' on the pad to have fun with a 302.... remembers the ones (made by boring 283's in the early 60's)... ruled the street in lightweight cars.. :) but the best way to do this is with a 327 or 350 block and 283 crankshaft... boring a 283 by 1/8" is chancey at best.. :)

In order to use the 283 crank, which is forged steel (and a dang good crank), you have to pick a small journal block. A 350 will relegate you to using the 657 '67 block, but you can also use the earlier 327 blocks to good advantage. You'll have to use a 302 piston for pin placement with a 5.7" rod and 3.00" stroke. Otherwise, you can feel like Zora Duntov when you put one of these together. Top it off with a pink stripe 30-30 Duntov cam, a set of 2.02/1.60 small chamber heads, and instant '67 Z karma. Love it -

My memories recall certain Nova 283,s being different. A friend who Pro raced in the 70,s always said they were stronger and had more meat but I cannot remember why he said they were.

If memory serves correctly, the Nova blocks were cast with the oil filter boss on the driver's side of the block raised somewhat in order to clear the clutch linkage. Because those blocks were only used in Nova applications, it was apparently not cost effective to cast a separate block for 283 and 327 usage. Since the casting had to be able to accommodate a 4" bore, any block that began life as a smaller bore 283 had somewhat thicker walls. I've always encouraged my Stock Eliminator guys who run 283 combinations to search out Nova blocks for that reason. As I said, I'm relying on recollections that are over 40 years old and I'm currently having difficulty remembering what I had for breakfast, so...

My memories recall certain Nova 283,s being different. A friend who Pro raced in the 70,s always said they were stronger and had more meat but I cannot remember why he said they were.

If memory serves correctly, the Nova blocks were cast with the oil filter boss on the driver's side of the block raised somewhat in order to clear the clutch linkage. Because those blocks were only used in Nova applications, it was apparently not cost effective to cast a separate block for 283 and 327 usage. Since the casting had to be able to accommodate a 4" bore, any block that began life as a smaller bore 283 had somewhat thicker walls. I've always encouraged my Stock Eliminator guys who run 283 combinations to search out Nova blocks for that reason. As I said, I'm relying on recollections that are over 40 years old and I'm currently having difficulty remembering what I had for breakfast, so...

That makes sense to me.... and I think a LOT of us here have problems with those 35-40 yr old memories..

and Steve said:In order to use the 283 crank, which is forged steel (and a dang good crank), you have to pick a small journal block. A 350 will relegate you to using the 657 '67 block, but you can also use the earlier 327 blocks to good advantage. You'll have to use a 302 piston for pin placement with a 5.7" rod and 3.00" stroke. Otherwise, you can feel like Zora Duntov when you put one of these together. Top it off with a pink stripe 30-30 Duntov cam, a set of 2.02/1.60 small chamber heads, and instant '67 Z karma. Love it -

I love it too... but I think we are 'living in the past'.. based on all the good stuff going on nowadays in the engine world!! PS. At one time you could buy 'spacer bearings' to allow use of a small journal crankshaft in a large journal 350 block.. but I never used one, although I thought about possibilities for many years..