Well, my 2235B lives!
I replaced all the electrolytics, diodes, and transistors on the PS board. That seems to have taken care of my problem. The DC offset is good, and stays good and the heatsink stays cool to the touch.

Now comes the best part... It sounds GREAT. I ran it with a pair of Dayton BR-1's and I LIKE IT!!!

Next project; HK330 with a right channel that's fried (smokes until the fuse blows). This one should be pretty simple. The left channel seems OK, so I'll just compare the two and rebuild accordingly.

Just to add to the previous success story......
Fixed my friendīs dadīs 2235B today. Boy was it sick, when powering up, no sound at all no matter what input, just a slight humming which became lesser when touching the chassis. Itīs all about cleaning...... the potmeters, the input selector and more. Was running extremely hot (real class A mode) on both channels. New idle- and dc-balance pots. Between the measuring points, the manual says 8mV for idle, was 250mV on left, 270mV on right channel, still wonder why it didnīt blow up. The 35V was the only thing that was just spot on. No suspicious caps, cleaned the big vari tuning capacitor (canīt remember the english word for it ) and adjusted the FM-sensitivity. Now itīs in absolutely perfect working order, and it sound pretty damn good. The owner is picking it up tomorrow, should be fun to see his face when cranking it up to show him the result

You are probably right, but the fact is: No lack of bass prerformance, no dc drift, sound is smooth and dynamic at the same time. Sure it would sound different, if I changed all the capīs, but the owner is very pleased.
And if it works, and works well........ Donīt fix it :-)

You are probably right, but the fact is: No lack of bass prerformance, no dc drift, sound is smooth and dynamic at the same time. Sure it would sound different, if I changed all the capīs, but the owner is very pleased.
And if it works, and works well........ Donīt fix it :-)

This approach ( sorry to say ) is very childish
Do you own instruments ? can you verify slew rate and bandwidth ?
can you also guarantee that this amplifier will continue to work after 6 month of everyday operation ?
Since 2009 we have a computerized data base
So we have been repairing 56 Marantz of 22XX series from 2009 till today
Data base and me say that none of the small grey capacitors pulled inside of them operated 100% properly
the small ones up to 10uf presented minor capacitance loss and huge increase of ESR while anything above that like 47 or 100UF expect massive ESR increase presented failure in the capacitance also ..