Fenix rises from the ashes of TBD

Sipping the first spoonful of ajiaco I was already hooked. The silken broth filled with meat, potatoes, a chunk of corn on the cob and capers was perfectly balanced and restorative. I’d put this version of chicken soup up against any I’ve enjoyed — from a Chinese wonton to a Jewish grandmother’s secret recipe — and it would rise to the top.

Even though Fenix bills itself as a Mexican restaurant, I didn’t care that the soup is actually based on a Colombian recipe. Chef-owner Mark Liberman is half Colombian, and while the rest of the Fenix menu looks to Mexico, he wanted at least one dish that celebrates his heritage. However, he admits he’s boosted the broth and used a few European techniques to bring out its richness.

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Liberman and his business partner Matt Semmelhack, who also own AQ two doors down, chose a Latin American route for their reboot of TBD, a restaurant based on hearth cooking that opened in 2013 but closed a year later because of a fire. It was reborn in May as Fenix.

The name is a clever acknowledgment of the setbacks they faced with the fire and the subsequent 18-month closure. In the remodel, the partners removed the wood-burning ovens — which had neighbors complaining anyway — and redecorated the space, including paving two walls with colorful loteria cards. The seating arrangement stayed the same, with tables along one wall opposite the open kitchen and long counter, and a mezzanine upstairs for overflow. The decor feels like it belongs South of Market, but gives nods to Mexico, which dovetails with the tenor of the food.

As any accomplished chef does, Liberman adds a personal twist to whatever he’s cooking. He oversees a fresh California menu at AQ and delves into French at Bon Marche in the nearby Twitter building. Fenix is no different. His foray into Mexican food comes from his frequent visits south of the border and a desire to explore a different side of the cuisine. That, in turn, led to a menu based on family-style suppers.

Fenix forgoes the enchiladas, tamales and tacos common to most Mexican menus. Liberman offers guacamole ($9), but in his version the chunky green puree is thickly dusted with toasted rice, a technique Liberman came up with to give a nutty flavor and texture. Gulf shrimp aguachile ($14) could be served at a fine French restaurant with its precise dice of cucumbers, onions, scallions and key lime juice spooned on top, and the way the sweet shrimp are stacked on one another in the center of the wide-mouthed pottery bowl. A spike of heat from habanero in the bright, acidic sauce evokes the feel of a bolder palate.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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The 10 “little tastes,” from pickled vegetables to jicama with chile and lime, that accompany each large plate at Fenix in S.F. Shown here with a bowl of goat birria.

The 10 “little tastes,” from pickled vegetables to jicama with chile and lime, that accompany each large plate at Fenix in S.F. Shown here with a bowl of goat birria.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Ten “Little Tastes” at Fenix in San Francisco.

Ten “Little Tastes” at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Queso fundido at Fenix in San Francisco.

Queso fundido at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Squash blossom quesadilla at Fenix in San Francisco.

Squash blossom quesadilla at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Gulf shrimp aguachile at Fenix in San Francisco.

Gulf shrimp aguachile at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Carne asada at Fenix in San Francisco.

Carne asada at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Gulf shrimp aguachile at Fenix in San Francisco.

Gulf shrimp aguachile at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Guacamole and chips at Fenix in San Francisco.

Guacamole and chips at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Pork shank at Fenix in San Francisco.

Pork shank at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Chicken soup being prepared at Fenix.

Chicken soup being prepared at Fenix.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Padrón peppers cooking on the grill at Fenix in S.F.

Padrón peppers cooking on the grill at Fenix in S.F.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Squash blossoms at the ready at Fenix.

Squash blossoms at the ready at Fenix.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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The flan at Fenix in S.F. is better than the versions at other restaurants.

The flan at Fenix in S.F. is better than the versions at other restaurants.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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People have dinner at Fenix in San Francisco.

People have dinner at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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People have dinner at Fenix in San Francisco.

People have dinner at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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People have dinner at Fenix in San Francisco.

People have dinner at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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A server brings guacamole and chips to a table at Fenix in San Francisco.

A server brings guacamole and chips to a table at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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People have dinner at Fenix in San Francisco.

People have dinner at Fenix in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Fenix rises from the ashes of TBD

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The menu starts with 11 small plates, such as chips and three house-made salsas ($5), an imaginatively conceived squash blossom quesadilla with epazote ($10) and an equally exceptional version of queso fundido ($11) with chorizo verde and strips of poblano chiles hiding under Sonoma Jack cheese.

What sets the menu apart are the five large plates. Each one comes with 10 “little tastes,” including tortillas, chilled tomatillo broth, jicama with chile and lime, sweet and hot preserved pumpkin, vegetable pickles and grilled pineapple coated in adobo sauce.

Pork shank ($20) — browned, blistered and shimmering in its agave and ancho chile cooking sauce — looks like it could feed a crowd, rising above the cazuela, next to a fiery salsa arriera made with serrano chiles. Carne asada ($22), grilled flank steak, is expertly charred outside and still rare inside, topped with grilled green onions next to a reddish mound of pasilla salsa. Goat ($19) braised in guajillo has a gamey flavor barely tamed by the smoky sauce; there’s no mistaking what meat you’re eating.

Liberman also features a daily changing fish — on two visits it was fried soft-shell crab in a Veracruz sauce ($24); on another, he seared sea bass ($28) with tomatoes. The vegetarian option is a root vegetable pibil in achiote and orange sauce ($17). Unfortunately, the carrots, beets, onions and other vegetables needed more slow-roasting.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

The chicken soup at Fenix in S.F.

The chicken soup at Fenix in S.F.

In some cases, seasonings also needed readjustment, especially in the side dishes. Sweet and hot preserved pumpkin was neither. Jicama with chile and lime could have used a more assertive hand in spicing. And the California brown rice, stained red from tomato sauce, had very little flavor. It showed that no matter how skilled the kitchen, there’s always a learning curve when delving into a different cuisine. Adjusting seasonings and discovering the right balance is an ongoing concern.

From a diner’s perspective, it’s a challenge to wrap the taste buds around so many different flavors and to maneuver so many plates on the relatively small tables, still left over from TBD days. Flatware, napkins, plates, serving spoons and the dessert menu are stored in drawers in front of each seat, which saves the staff a few steps. Still, waiters are efficient at checking back, picking up empty plates and keeping the tables as uncluttered as possible.

Fenix is also at a slight disadvantage in the beverage department. Since the restaurant can serve only beer and wine, the expected margaritas aren’t available. Instead they make an effort to offer an interesting beer and wine list, plus several sangrias ($8), including a classic red and two made from rosé wine (one with prickly pear and a pleasing kick from jalapeño; another with the fruity essence of strawberry and mint). They are all very good.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Chef Mark Liberman of Fenix in San Francisco.

Chef Mark Liberman of Fenix in San Francisco.

My thoughts on authenticity that started with the soup were further boosted at dessert when we spooned into the flan ($6). It looked like the hundreds I’ve seen through the years, with its expected sweet caramelized sauce, but the custard had a smooth richness not unlike panna cotta. I’ve never had anything this creamy in a Mexican restaurant, and it turns out that Liberman again took a little liberty with the classic recipe, using all yolks instead of whole eggs.

As with the soup, the flan raised the question: Is it authentic? If something tastes good, who cares if the chef takes liberties with tradition? Only when it weakly mimics the familiar does it become an issue. Food by rote is boring; food borne from creativity and passion can be exhilarating

Variations like these help to make a cuisine more enduring and vibrant. Is it Mexican, Colombian, Californian? Authenticity can be debated but in the end, good is good.