The only reason to not use eco mode would be inconsistent draw recognition imo, which can happen if you're using a water tool and long whip or draw only very slightly.
Otherwise it should only safe battery power and heat up Tubo a bit less.

Regarding the wattage, you should try it out but in the end all the options should work (like 40-70w range I guess).

I think a new thread is a good idea because this one is already quite long and it can still serve as a reference point.

I'm really glad that I own a Tubo even though a dual would have made me happy too probably
But it's kinda sad to see this versions end of production.

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Let's see! This weekend I will try one day at 70w+ eco, 55w no eco and some different packing methods! My gf takes shorter draws so maybe 70w would help there!

One question, not assuming it will happen but if you do get the device too hot message, how long does it take before you can use the device again?

Let's see! This weekend I will try one day at 70w+ eco, 55w no eco and some different packing methods! My gf takes shorter draws so maybe 70w would help there!

One question, not assuming it will happen but if you do get the device too hot message, how long does it take before you can use the device again?

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Tell your gf to try to take as long of a slow draw as she can. It was be a thicker, more satisfying vapor I feel. My wife takes shorter draws too so I kinda feel like once the glass is primed it works great either way so maybe your gf can tell me to piss off.

I can not believe that an $11 spikey stem could make such a difference. There is some draw resistance, but I don't mind it all. The hits are cool and it is only on the exhale that I realize the massive size of the hit I just took.

The capsule aspect of the stem gives you some versatility, too. If you are in PAIN and need to medicate now, you can use the capsule stem with the capsule open to the heater for quicker extractions or you can use the capsule closed and have a leisurely session or several on-demand sessions.

I also received a spikey bent stem. I have not tried the bent stem because the joint is too deep. It doesn't even fit in any of my Tubo products. If Teflon Tape is my only choice, I could try that, but shortening it would be cool. It is well made and the glass seems thicker than the standard bent stem.

I can not believe that an $11 spikey stem could make such a difference. There is some draw resistance, but I don't mind it all. The hits are cool and it is only on the exhale that I realize the massive size of the hit I just took.

The capsule aspect of the stem gives you some versatility, too. If you are in PAIN and need to medicate now, you can use the capsule stem with the capsule open to the heater for quicker extractions or you can use the capsule closed and have a leisurely session or several on-demand sessions.

I also received a spikey bent stem. I have not tried the bent stem because the joint is too deep. It doesn't even fit in any of my Tubo products. If Teflon Tape is my only choice, I could try that, but shortening it would be cool. It is well made and the glass seems thicker than the standard bent stem.

P.S. How did Tubo wind up on page three of portables?

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We all slow down as we age lol

Yeah my bent stems joints are also too long for my Tubo, used some medical tape, but would much rather have them cut down as well (to 22mm would be even better to use with more Vapes actually... or even 19!) Would love a spiky bent, but wouldn't want to risk it since it probably wouldn't fit out of the box...

What I find distressing is that the stem does not fit the seller's vapes, either. Too fragile to make into a paperweight.

BTW, the spikey stems are thicker than the standard, the bent stem and the inserts for the wood capsule stems all appear to be thicker.

If I was to get some bent stems from @funkyjunky and get them cut to fit 19/22 or 19/19 would you guys be interested?

Labor costs are much less here than in the EU.

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Interested for sure. Only stem I really want is the bent spiky stem. But I have held off cuz my original wobbles a teeny bit in my tubo. It cant use the rimmed basket screen, definitely too wobbly for my liking. I dont want to buy a spiky version of that.

Spiky bent stem is nice yeah, but it does get hot after a session I've realized. On top of that, you need to use a basket screen with it which is okay, just wish I had a way to pack it full of .2-.3g's.

I had a stem that was too long, simply using a bit of sandpaper will take the little lip off enough so it fits snug. Just do the sanding outside (if your really safety consious wear a paper dudst mask) and be sure to give it a really good rinse after.

Im not saying that this should be expected, obv, but its a quick, simple and easy fix.

I agree the stems should fit out of the box, i actually bend, spike and add the colour to the stock stems and am supprised some dont fit. Im sure @funkyjunky will be along to put peoples mind at reast and im sure all stems will be tested prior to being sent out from now on.

I love all my stems, each one lends its own peraonality to a session. Nice 1

So I've got a wooden stem w/ amaze cooler and that thing gets hot as a motherfucker. On top of that, getting it to produce vapor is a bit of a challenge. Used a dosing capsule without the lid, may have to try it without a capsule at all and see how it goes. Wooden stem is definitely my least favorite, but at least its easy to use with the whip. It seems that I exclusively use that weird nectar collector mouthpiece because it produces big clouds and keeps the vapor much cooler.

So I've got a wooden stem w/ amaze cooler and that thing gets hot as a motherfucker. On top of that, getting it to produce vapor is a bit of a challenge. Used a dosing capsule without the lid, may have to try it without a capsule at all and see how it goes. Wooden stem is definitely my least favorite, but at least its easy to use with the whip. It seems that I exclusively use that weird nectar collector mouthpiece because it produces big clouds and keeps the vapor much cooler.

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What length is your stem? Have you considered the spikey glass insert? It works amazingly well.

Turn algo to PID.Do not set cold coil resistance while coils are hot.Dont flash it while coils are hot. Otherwise you risk to detune your TUBO which might result in poor vaping experience or glowing red hot coils.

I've been REALLY enjoying my Tubo for the last couple of months but today my Tubo stopped heating up. The temp control goes wildly up to 850c and the coil, set at the default .206 ohms, jumps up wildly too. The power level is ALWAYS below 1watt now. What's going on? Please help! Did I do something with the settings on my Tubo Evic? I don't think I did anything manually with the settings but that's the first thing I'm checking.

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and I might have tried to change coil resistance while hot. Possibly.

While in cruise mode or on demand mode it will swap between heating normally and dropping to 1 watt every 2-3 seconds or so. It also seems to increase draw resistance and produce no vapor whenever it drops to 1 watt. This obviously makes the temperature fluctuate wildly, and sometimes it seems to be stuck at above whatever I've set it to even when idling at 0-1w in cruise mode. Drawing causes it to fluctuate.

While in warmup mode I can draw normally and it produces lots of vapor. I also seem to have to vape at 230c for the same cloud production I remember from the beginning. 180-210 c doesn't seem to produce anything at all, or barely.

Sometimes it just way overshoots temperature, even when at 1w, and even warmup won't work. I'm working on getting a vimeo video linked. When this happens it doesn't seem to be heating at all, despite the high reported temperature.

I've tried flashing the firmware, but have been dicking around a bit since. I've now set the settings to the defaults shown in the tubo manual, but am very confused about what modes are for or if I should use them at all. Obviously TCR can't be changed. Do setting other modes to Y override TCR?

I've had the Tubo for just over a year now, and have been having issues the last 2-4 months, maybe.

I also ordered new batteries, which arrived today. They don't seem to make any difference. Went from 30Qs to Sony VTC6s

Any advice very welcome.

- Wondering about what the default settings are (I know resistance is individual)
- Will unlocking and locking resistance again while the device is cold reset it to proper calibration? Or do I have to flash again?
- When people talk about setting the wattage, where do they do that? The only place I can see watt settings is in warmup settings, and I've seen people see those settings are only used in power mode while others say to just leave things at TCR.
- I saw one guy that had issues because of stealth mode. How do I turn that off? I can't see it anywhere in the menus.
- What else should I try to troubleshoot? I can get high just fine by using warmup mode and drawing, and sometimes it seems to work in cruisemode, as long as I draw relatively fast - but it causes "device too hot" messages relatively quickly while in warmup, and I obviously want to avoid that.
- I can produce images of the menu settings if wanted.

Thanks in advance for the help, guys, and sorry for the long post. I'm getting super annoyed and desperate.

I have my tubo since around 9 months now and everything worked perfect.
But since a few days it seems that my tubo doesn't recognize my draws anymore (more specific the display shows no temperature drop while I draw). Due to that the heater doesn't heat (PWR stays at 0.9w).

I then tried different settings, for example I operated my tubo at eco level 3. As it is described in the manual the temperature should drop to 135° celsius when no draw is recognized. But in my case the display shows much higher temperatures even that I do not draw.

Sometimes after I turned my tubo off and on again it works like expected. The settings I use normaly are the standard settings from the manual.

I now clicked the "Zero All" option while the Tubo was in room temperature, and increased the resistance from .230 to .240 while cold at room temperature. It now seems to register draws correctly and give decent vapor at 185-200C.

It still seems to be a little weird and rarely drops down to 1w while drawing, which is annoying when it happens but I can live with this just fine for now I think. Bowls empty fairly fast, using a rimless bowl at the bottom of the bowl, capping it with the basket screen. So maybe I might dial the resistance down to .235 again to test if it registers properly.

Why does draw resistance seem tougher when the tubo isn't heating properly? Does it limit the vapor path somehow? What's actually going on? I don't understand why the coils being hot would matter.

I now clicked the "Zero All" option while the Tubo was in room temperature, and increased the resistance from .230 to .240 while cold at room temperature. It now seems to register draws correctly and give decent vapor at 185-200C.

It still seems to be a little weird and rarely drops down to 1w while drawing, which is annoying when it happens but I can live with this just fine for now I think. Bowls empty fairly fast, using a rimless bowl at the bottom of the bowl, capping it with the basket screen. So maybe I might dial the resistance down to .235 again to test if it registers properly.

Why does draw resistance seem tougher when the tubo isn't heating properly? Does it limit the vapor path somehow? What's actually going on? I don't understand why the coils being hot would matter.

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1w is too low, it actually means that the coils don't receive enough energy in these seconds, when it happens? in cruise mode?

first the not fitting stems. it seems there are more problems with stem fittings than i thought. the oven depth should be enough to house 26mm stems with a basket screen. i realized somewhen that the newer female joints were a bit less deep and started to account for that. there are a few units out there that can possibly have less room inside the heater.solution: if you feel handy and diy, inspect the intake screen, if there is a bit room for the three glass tubes to move further back. if so, take a something wooden and a hammer and gently hammer each tube into the unit from the top by a millimeter and try the stem again. pay attention to not rip the intake screen in this process.
if youd rather not touch the heater, send it to me and ill adjust the tubes, or even place some shorter heater tubes inside if that is not enough.@Shit Snacks please check yours again, i think i did put shorter ones in yours when it came home for the checkup.

as for the 1w with high displayed temp problem: i saw this problem before in a very small number of units. my own prototypes and units have never developed this despite the crazy scenarios they had to endure. anyhow it points to something being not right with a connection. the reason for this is still unknown to me.solution: increase coil resistance until the unit works like you knew it did. if thats possible, hurray. if it gets worse again or stops working properly please send the unit back to me so i can inspect it and likely exchange the heater, which will certainly solve the issue.

contact me prior to sending the device in or fill out the return form on the website, thanks,

I'm definitely not going to take mine apart to mess with the tubes. My issue with my bent stem is it isnt flat on the bottom. I could sand it I suppose. I just use a rimless basket screen and that is my macrodoser.

Any update on the dual units? Or any other mod you're working with to make a future tubo?

a bit more info...
there can only be 36 more tubo duals, then i need to move on again, hahaornot.
the plan for after is made and prototypes are doing good!

ill reveal more when the first new duals are built and are ready for the show off

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I was thinking you might have something interesting going on over there. The duals are going to be unique for sure. Can't wait to see what you find from the more advanced mods that are available now. The heater I know will be killer.

i am ignoring the wismec question on purpose hahaha, but yeah i can go to any mod the firmware runs on. the dimensions of the mod is what is leading the way a bit. as said things are already decided and preproduction units exist, no worries.

the reveal is near

todays news:
available on the store. thanks @Padriano for the premium acrylic selection, thanks @Aezhenn for the premium turning!

also the other day i posted more @davesmith aka glass_charlie stems on the store as well, thanks: