Description

This is a west face route to the right of B-2. There are two bolts and getting to the first one is around 5.8 and high enough to get hurt. Moving by the first bolt is somewhat height dependent. For me at 5'9" it's a 10b. From the second bolt go straight up(10c) or traverse right and up--easier (5.10a).

I agree with Mike. The hardest part of the climb is passing the 1st bolt. The rock is very polished in that area at your feet from all those before... I'm 6'3" and still, it's a lot of work to reach the better hoizontals above. After that, going straight up is no problem and no harder than 10a. I don't really see why anyone would head right and get away from the natural line. It doesn't seem all that much easier and certainly not as fun. This is a very good route for learning how well this J-Tree stone will stick to your shoes!!!!!

I agree with Bo and Mike that getting past that first bolt is a doozy. And the Bo man nails it bringing up how polished it is. I remember many years back when it was not so and was easier........soon it will be upgraded to 5.glass considering how many people frequent the area........I have led it many, many times as has my son. When on Trashcan......it's a must do for us..........

Stepped onto this one with confidence, then came the whole getting to that first bolt thing... luckily a friend swung over from Tip Toe and clipped the thing for me. So then I tried to lead past that bolt, no go. Just felt so wonky. Backed off and top roped it. The mantel is solid, hardest part for me was moving past the second bolt. Not one I'd like to lead any time soon.

Not sure why it's "R". Good wire below the first bolt if you want to stop and put it in. Move past the first bolt seemed like 5.10a, but just one move to good horizontal rail, for me the crux was oozing up past the second bolt.

Done this one a million times, and watched a million people on it. Crux for people is definitely getting to the horizontals and then standing on them. Height dependent difficulty there for sure. Can't see any PG or R rating, the only chance you have of getting hurt on lead is if you accidently slip on the first five feet, but you wouldn't get hurt bad and that is pretty normal for all routes. A spotter is nice for that. Otherwise just a real fun classic route to me. I have a video of John Long climbing it in '91 and he walks all over it like it's nothing at all.

I thought the harder move was after clipping the second bolt and heading straight up the line. Tenuous and interesting smear with good body tension. Fun move. Of course I underestimated the beginning move past the first bolt and slipped off... The PG-13 rating probably comes from the run out to the top above the second bolt. If you fell near the top (and there really isn't any reason to - it's probably 5.9 slab), you would deck for sure. Just makes you a bit nervous knowing you cannot mess up the upper section.

I thought in between the first and second bolts was the crux (basically the moves right after you clip the first bolt). I wouldn't call it run out but falling from near the second bolt would be a bad idea. Obviously don't deck before you clip the first bolt either (you could probably fiddle in some gear if you're worried).