This shiny new restaurant tucked into the Arlo Hotel, in Hudson Square, takes a charming Southern concept born of a simpler time and revs it up for novelty-curious New Yorkers. In the mid-South, especially around Nashville, “meat and three” cafeteria-style joints offer a choice of protein, such as chicken-fried steak or smothered pork chops, and three vegetable sides, often accompanied by cornbread and sweet tea, all for one price. These are casual, highly caloric affairs, whose names might include “country,” “kitchen,” or “kettle,” and which combine the soul-satisfying element of familiar home cooking with the convenience of instant gratification. In translating the idea for New York, the chef, Harold Moore, has gone upscale with cocktails and lobster alongside the meatballs and mac and cheese, attempting to please anyone and everyone willing to pay his notably un-country prices.

Moore, who came up in the rarefied kitchens of Daniel Boulud and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, made his name at Commerce, in the West Village, where he won over locals with superb elevated comfort food. At Harold’s Meat + Three, he’s having some fun, throwing lots of ideas onto the menu and seeing what sticks. And good news: there’s an all-you-can-eat salad bar. One night, next to the baby kale and shaved fennel, there was beef carpaccio, chicken ballotine, cold cooked salmon, shrimp cocktail (unlimited!), and small Mason jars of chicken-liver mousse. When asked if there was anything, like toast, to spread the mousse on, the waitress, looking lost, shook her head and scanned the table, eyes landing on the complimentary cheddar-chive biscuits. It was better with croutons.

The revolving menu lists about twenty mains, which have included Thai-inspired pork ribs, whole dorade, limp seared scallops, and a questionable dish of sweetbreads. The best strategy is to stick with what’s popular: chicken or beef, any kind. Fried chicken doused with hot sauce? Delicious. Filet mignon au poivre? Extra thick and perfectly cooked. Cheeseburger? Classic, with two smashed patties and American cheese. Among the twenty-two sides (twenty-seven counting the up-charge specials, like foie gras or an egg), anything green (asparagus, spinach, herb salad) and all manner of potatoes (rösti, wedges, purée) are the clear winners.

It’s too bad that part of the “meat and three” allure, the feeling that you’re getting a deal, does not factor into the Harold’s experience. But, hey, it’s New York. For dessert, there’s a gigantic slice of coconut cake, for twelve bucks. It’s moist and delicious and feeds four, and is followed by pumpkin-cinnamon soft-serve cones for everyone. They’re two inches tall, and they’re free. (Meat and three sides $19-$55.)♦