Partake by K-J: Wine tasting with full restaurant

The Grand Reserve Merlot paired with Whole Vine Tempura Maitake Mushrooms, (left,) and Highland Estates Trace Ridge Cabernet paired with a smoked Loin of Lamb at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on Thursday, August 1st, 2013. less

The Grand Reserve Merlot paired with Whole Vine Tempura Maitake Mushrooms, (left,) and Highland Estates Trace Ridge Cabernet paired with a smoked Loin of Lamb at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on ... more

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Partake by K-J is much more than a tasting room; it's a full restaurant, left. Right: The Highland Estates Trace Ridge Cabernet paired with a smoked loin of lamb.

Partake by K-J is much more than a tasting room; it's a full restaurant, left. Right: The Highland Estates Trace Ridge Cabernet paired with a smoked loin of lamb.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Outside the new restaurant in Healdsburg..

Outside the new restaurant in Healdsburg..

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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The mystery Black Glass paired with estate grown Radish, micro-sorrel, green goddess dressing and Meyer lemon oil at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

The mystery Black Glass paired with estate grown Radish, micro-sorrel, green goddess dressing and Meyer lemon oil at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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People enjoy lunch at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

People enjoy lunch at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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The Dessert Trio paired with a Grand Reserve Late Harvest Chardonnay at with Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

The Dessert Trio paired with a Grand Reserve Late Harvest Chardonnay at with Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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People enjoy lunch at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

People enjoy lunch at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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The interior of Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

The interior of Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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The Chef's tasting first course comprised of Oysters paired with Sauvignon Blanc and the Fennel Panna Cotta, Coos Bay Shrimp paired with Highland Estates Camelot Highlands Chardonnay at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on Thursday, August 1st, 2013. less

The Chef's tasting first course comprised of Oysters paired with Sauvignon Blanc and the Fennel Panna Cotta, Coos Bay Shrimp paired with Highland Estates Camelot Highlands Chardonnay at Partake by K-J in ... more

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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People enjoy lunch at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

People enjoy lunch at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Image 11 of 12

People enjoy lunch at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

People enjoy lunch at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Syrah paired with Grapeskin Flour Pork Buns at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

Syrah paired with Grapeskin Flour Pork Buns at Partake by K-J in Healdsburg, Calif., is seen on Thursday, August 1st, 2013.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Partake by K-J: Wine tasting with full restaurant

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Each of us was sure we had identified the mystery wine poured into black glasses at Partake by K-J, the lounge that Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate opened in downtown Healdsburg in March.

Chardonnay, said one. Viognier, said another. Sauvignon Blanc, said the third, and it turned out she was right; the opaque stemware held the Vintner's Reserve 2012 Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon-Viognier-Riesling blend.

Did she win anything? we asked our waiter, as he presented an amuse-bouche of tiny radishes swathed in pea puree. The free wine was the prize, he smiled, though he admitted that it would be neat to have bells ring and lights flash. Then he took our orders for lunch.

'Culinary experiences'

While more wineries around the Bay Area are adding food pairings and "culinary experiences" to their tasting rooms, Partake by K-J has flipped the concept 180 degrees. The space is really a restaurant. It's complemented by a wine tasting bar, and though "flights and bites" are served, it's easy to enjoy a full meal in the chic dining room of hardwood floors, rustic wood tables, leather chairs and Wine Country art.

Diners select a wine category, such as that Sauvignon Blanc, with one to three choices in each, and each matched with a small plate. Or they can mix and match any dish with any wine. Or they can choose just a 2-ounce or 5-ounce glass of wine, or just a dish, solo.

For a fuller experience, they can go for a set tasting, either a three-course cheese ($25), five-course "from the garden" menu ($35) or a chef's menu ($45), all paired with wines.

Guided by the knowledgeable servers, it's easy to navigate, and so for my last visit, I threw a wrench into the works. On my first trip, I'd selected a bunch of small plates; on the second, I'd enjoyed the tasting menus. This time I requested one chef's menu to be shared by three guests, but with each of us receiving the corresponding glass of wine.

Our waiter suggested we instead order whatever individual plates we wanted, since they were larger than tasting menu plates, and he would give each of us glasses of the corresponding wines for the same price.

Generous solution

It was a surprisingly generous solution, as we all three sipped 2-ounce pours and shared the very good creations from K-J chef Justin Wangler.

Most dishes use produce from the winery's Santa Rosa garden, which was recently taken over and expanded by former French Laundry head gardener Tucker Taylor. And many are of fine-dining caliber, like the excellent coq au vin with an ample bowl of flat noodles made from red wine flour and tossed with chicken, pearl onions and carrots in a thick, savory reduction ($8 with Vintner's Reserve Pinot Noir).

There's plenty of thought in the details, down to the two kinds of bread fresh-baked from Whole Vine Chardonnay and Syrah grape skin and seed flours, paired with olive oil, Chardonnay grape seed oil and Meyer lemon-infused oil; and three fat rounds of Devil's Gulch rabbit sausage with slivers of sweet peach, tart pickled ramps and microgreens on grape mostarda, paired with Grand Reserve Pinot Noir ($12).

Less successful, though, were the Syrah grape skin flour pork buns. The three purplish-black buns were heavy and doughy, with very little meat and a thick blob of hoisin sauce on top ($7 with Highland Estates Alisos Hills Syrah).

Still, the most notable experience comes in the chef's tasting, which delivers what's easily a two-hour adventure for the bargain price of $45. Two oysters and a glass of Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc are followed by a wobbly round of green garlic panna cotta crowned with Dungeness crab and Meyer lemon oil with Highland Estates Camelot Highlands Chardonnay.

Dessert plate

To finish, the chef sends out a dessert plate set with spoonfuls of white chocolate mousse and Meyer lemon curd for dipping with coconut shortbread and crunchy lime meringue, all matched with Grand Reserve Late Harvest Riesling.

Throughout, friendly servers explain each wine. And though I feared that a sales pitch on the wine club or bottle sales would come at the end, it never did. Instead, just as at a good restaurant, the staff thanked us for coming.

Partake is one of the most creative approaches to dining I've seen in Wine Country, packing fun, flavor and a bit of education into a first-rate experience. What a nice twist for tasting.

Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.