Why it matters: A deft mesh of Spanish ideas and French twists makes this well-mannered Bellaire spot a rare fine-dining oasis in its underserved suburb — and a destination for Houstonians in search of a low-key, old-school vibe.

What to order: Salad of tomato and cabrales cheese; romaine salad with Manchego and boquerones; jumbo shrimp with roasted and fresh garlic in olive oil; Angeles' Paella; apple tart.

Inside track: Haven't booked? Slip into one of the counter seats for a few tapas and a glass of Spanish wine from the smart, short list.