Yet one of the true gems in Oregon is Riesling, the state’s No. 4 wine grape at 1,900 tons harvested in 2011. In total tonnage, it is far behind Pinot Gris but doesn’t trail Chardonnay by much.

In quality, however, Oregon Riesling can stand alongside some of the best in the United States, including examples from Washington, New York, Michigan and Idaho.

Perhaps the biggest issue with Riesling is the cost to produce it in Oregon. The cool Willamette Valley will not allow Riesling to grow more than 3 tons per acre in a typical year, half of what vines can handle in the arid Columbia Valley of Washington.

The price per ton for Riesling is about the same in both states, but in Oregon, it fetches half the price per ton as Chardonnay.

The low price per ton for one of the most noble grapes in the wine world discourages growers from expanding plantings because they can make more harvesting Chardonnay, Viognier and Pinot Gris.

In recent weeks, we have tasted several world-class examples of Oregon Riesling. Ask for these at your favorite wine merchant or contact the wineries directly.

Argyle Winery 2011 Riesling, Eola-Amity Hills, $18: Nate Klostermann has taken over winemaking at this longtime bubble house. Aromas of fresh-cut apple, sweet Bartlett pear, cantaloupe and clove give way to Honeycrisp apple flavors. While the residual sugar sits at 1.3 percent, the winery slots this on the dry edge of the scale because of its broad delivery of acidity that brings brightness and just a touch of spritziness.

Penner-Ash Wine Cellars 2012 Riesling, Willamette Valley, $20: Lynn Penner-Ash is one of Oregon’s longest-tenured and most talented winemakers. This gorgeous Riesling opens with aromas of jasmine, lime and a whisper of basil, followed by flavors of lemon chiffon and bright apple. Piercing acidity is the highlight of this top-shelf effort.

Elk Cove Vineyards 2011 Estate Riesling, Willamette Valley, $19: The nose is full of apricot marmalade, baked pineapple and poached apple with clove and cinnamon. The palate turns into Bosc pear and Gala apple flavors with a big burst of lemony acidity that provides length. The residual sugar settled out at 0.8 percent.

Union Wine Co. 2012 Kings Ridge Riesling, Willamette Valley, $13: Winemaker Greg Bauer has made a Riesling with aromas that unveil the purity of fruit. It opens with aromas of pear, apple, mineral and lime, followed by bright flavors of green apple, lemon zest and a hint of clove.

Eric Degerman and Andy Perdue run Great Northwest Wine, a news and information company. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.