The dyeing characteristics of acorn was investigated. The natural Fabrics-cotton, rayon and silk-were dyed repeatedly in the solution extracted from acorn, CuSO4, K2Cr2O7 and brine were used as mordants to improve color fastness. Anti-bacterial property was measured in the dyed and mordant treated fabrics. When the cotton and rayon fabrics were dyed and treated with CuSO4, their colors showed very clear. They also had good color fastness and excellent anti-bacterial property. The dyed silk fabrics had better dye absorption property than the cotton and rayon fabrics without mordant treatment. But the fabrics dyed without mordant treatment had low light fastness. The cotton, rayon and silk fabrics dyed and treated with brine were dark and unclear. An aftertreatment with CuSO4 and K2Cr2O7 made the dyed fabrics darter and more clear.

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of the improved cold tolerance resulting from cool clothing in winter on heat tolerance in summer. Ten healthy women were divided into two groups, cold group(C group) (n=5) and warm group(W group) (n=5) . In the previous study, C group was proved that their cold acclimatization was achieved through wearing cool clothing from September to February of the following year, while Wgroup was not proved because of wearing warm clothing during same period. After February, no more clothing training was continued in two groups. To determine the heat tolerance, both groups were exposed from a thermoneutral environment(251, 505% R.H.) to a hot environment (351, 505% R.H.) before and after clothing training, respectively September in 1994 and truly in 1995. Rectal temperature, skin temperatures, thermal sensation and comfort were measured every 10 min., and Os uptake was measured at 10, 45, 85 min. after entering the chamber for 5 min. Body weight was measured before and after the experiment and amount of local sweat was measured during the 90 min long experiment. The results are as follows: Rectal temperatures in 35'c environment of C group were increased after training when compared with before clothing, while those of W group were not changed. But the changes of rectal temperature and heat production during 90 min in hot environment were almost the same in two groups after training. And mean skin temperatures, the changes of mean skin temperatures during 90 min in hot environment, total sweat amount and local sweat amount after training were also the same in two groups. From these results, it might be supposed that the heat loss of two groups were the same but the heat production, especially heat production during rest in C group was higher than in Wgroup. This fact suggests that the increase of rest heat production from cold acclimatization in winter is maintained to summer of the following year. And mild cold acclimatization coming from westing cool clothing does not have a negative effect on heat tolerance.

The purpose of this study was to find out the symbolism of religious costume which has showed the religious belief system through costume practice and culture. Indian Religious costume each has its own mark was investigated in this study. In India, religion is a way of life. It is an integral part of the entire Indian tradition. The results were as follows; India's several main religions are Hinduism(About 80% of population) , Islam (About 11% of population) , Sikhism(less than 2% of population) , Jainism(less than 1% of population) , Buddhism(less than 1% of population) and Christianity(About 3% of population but excluding here) Religious faith system which symbolized Godhood, spiritualty, ascetics, restraint, chastity, sacred and dignity gave a certain shape to each color, ornaments, dressing and marking of religion costume. In connection with religion costumes, there were Hindu's Tika, sacred ash, long hair, knot and holy band (Yajnopavita) , Buddhist's kayysa and tonsures, Jams' no covering, Muslim's chador and skullcap, Sikh's turban (with no cutting hair) , comb, steel bracelet, drawers, sword or dagger. The characteristics, head especially of thebody and white in the colors were made much account for India religion costume. Traditional costume seems to be worn at the present times in India. But apparently these costume associated with religion costume because of Hindu more than 80% of population.

The purpose of this study is to develop the well-fitted brassieres by observing the changes in the breast sizes and shapes, the surface area and the volume of the breast through the arm movements of 3 types (0, 90 and 180) in vertical motion. The subjects are females, who are aged twenties and wearing a brassiere size 70B, In particular, to obtain the measures regarding the surface area and the volume of the breast, replicas are made at each motion. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The changes in the breast sizes and shapes at each motion By increasing the motions of the arm movement, the following measure items are inclined to decrease: Shoulder length, Side neck point~B.P., Front neck point~B.P., Horizontal length of the cup, Upper bust circumference, Bust circumference, Upper bust depth, Bust depth, Under bust depth, Nipple to tipple breadth, Horizontal distance of bust, Bust height, Cup size. By increasing the motions of the arm movement, the following measure items are inclined to increase: Center point of shoulder~B.P., Shoulder point~B.P., Armpit~ lowest point of breast drooping, Upper bust point~B.P., B.P~Under bust point, Under bust line, Width of gap between breast, Vertical distance of Bust. 2. The changes in the surface area and volume of breast at each motion By making the replica to observe changes in the surface area, which are sectioned to 4 parts(area 1 to area 4) , and volume of breast at each motion, the results are as follows: At 0 and 90, the sizes of each part are ordered as the following: area2> areal> area4> area3. At 180, the sizes of each part are ordered as the following: areal> area2> area4> area3. Through these orders, it is found that the upper and inside part of the breast has the inclination to increase so long as the motions of the arm movement increase. Also, the total surface area increases so long as the motions of the arm movement increase. The volume of the breast increase when the surface area of the breast increases. As a result of the F-test on the changes in the each surface areas, the surface area and volume by arm movements, the significant differences among the each surface areas and the surface area are not found.

The purpose of this study is to investigate consumer shopping orientation toward foreign brands in the context of clothing involvement, ethnocentrism, country-of-origin effects and demograpic variables. Prior to this paper, shopping orientation was studied in connection with ethnocentrism and country-of-origin effects. The questionnaire was distributed to 300 female consumers over twenty years old living in Pusan area and finally 213 data serfs were used for statistical analysis. By factor analysis, 6 clothing involvement factors were identified; fashion interest, symbolism, pleasure interest, inclination to harmony, aesthetic expression and perceived risk. A result of canonical correlation analysis about shopping orientation factors and clothing involvement factors is as follows. Two shopping orientation factors (follow to foreign brands and country-of-orion consciousness) positively correlate with three clothing involvement factors (fashion interest, symbolism and pleasure interest) , and two shopping orientation factors (preference to domestics and country-of-orion consciousness) positively correlate with author clohting involvement factor (percived risk). Anocova procedure revealed that five shopping orientation factors were related to clothing involvement factors, groups according to ethnocentric disposition, country-of-origin effects and demograpics respectively, even though there are some differences. Based on the conclusions, marketing strategies were developed.

An investigation made of fabric strength & elongation and the lock stitch seam strength & elongation by stitch density (N1.5; 26 stitches/3 cm, N2.0; 19 stitches/3 cm, N2.5; 14 stitches/3cm) depending on methods of. sample prepariation (angle variations of unseamed sample and overlapping way of seamed sample) It found maximum stitch density that results of the seam strength test was highist in each angle of bias. The results obstained were as follows: 1. As the results of fabric strength and elongation tests as a function of angle of bias, breaking strength were that warp and weft angles (0, 90) were much higher than bias angles (20, 30, 45, 60) . And otherwise breaking elongation were that 45 angle of bias were highest and were that the warp & weft way were lower. 2. As the results of the seam strength tests by the stitch density under samples of same angles, the maximum stitch density were those; under 0/0, 60/60:F1, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5, under 20/20, 30/30, 45/45: F1-N2.5, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5, under 90/90: F1, F2, F3-N1.5. 3. As the results of the seam strength tests by the stitch density under samples of symmetry angles, the maximum stitch density were those; under 20/-20, 30/-30, 60/-60: F1, F3-N1.5, F2-N2.0, under 45/-45: F1, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5.

The purpose of the study was to investigate the interaction effect of garment formality, Yin -Yang level, and body type of children on impression formation. The experimental materials developed for the study were a set of stimuli (8 color photographs) and a response scale (34 bipolar adjectives) and the subjects were 267 elementary school teachers in Taejon area who were responsible for the first grade students. Results were as follows; The 3 independent variables showed significant effects on impression of the 4 factors (sociability, potency, dynamics, cooperation) of impression. Since body type had interaction effects with garment formality and subject's gender, the two body types were separately analyzed. For the normal body type, only the garment formality affected on impression of cooperation factor But for the large body type, garment formality affected on impression of potency dimension, garment Yin-Yang level affected on social and dynamics dimension, and subject's gender affected on social and cooperation dimensions. The body type was the most salient variables and clothing effects for the large body type was significantly different for the normal body type. It is concluded that the results support the cognitive categorization theory on impression formation.

The purpose of this study was to classify and analyze the lower body of adult female and to provide it'stotal data for clothing construction. The subjects were 82 Korean adult females and their age range is from 19 to 24 years old. 42 variables (10 variables from the direct anthropometric data, 2 variables from the multiplication method and 30 variables from the indirect anthropometric data) in total were applies to analyze(means, standard deviations, factor analysis, cluster analysis) The result of factor analysis indicated that 10 factors were extract'cd through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of varimax and those factors comprise 82. 5 percent of total variance. The obesity of lower body was closely related to hip angle indicated the degree of drooping hip was extracted a independent factor, not influenced by other variance. And somatotype of lower body is classified by cluster analysis, using the FASTCLUS of SAS. To classify the lower body, two kinds of silhouette, front- back and side were applied to analize. The front- back silhouette was subdivided into five groups and the side silhouette four.

The purpose of this study was to identify the effects of perceptual self-concept and evaluative self-concept (self-esteem) on the clothing behavior of college students. The subjects of this study were college students who were attended in Semyung University. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, 1-test, Pearson's correlation and two-way ANOVA were used. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Male students showed higher evaluative self.concept than female students. 2. Shopping motivation was varied according to self-concept especially in male students. And in fashion pursuit factor, sex and self-concept had the main effect and concurrently there was interaction. 3. Clothing interest was varied according to self-concept. About fashion interest, sex had the main effect and sex and self-concept showed the interaction. 4. Clothing satisfaction was changed according to self-concept. Self-concept showed the main effect in fashionable factor and practical factor, and sex and self-concept had interaction in fashionable factor.

The purpose of the study was to investigate a transmittance rate of UVB (Ultraviolet B) through summer fabrics and a protection rate of summer fabric from UVB. The subjects were randomly selected 159 fabrics from Korean common summer fabrics. The protection rates of 159 fabrics from UVB were measured by UVB lamp and UVB sensor, and 14 fabrics among these fabrics were selected for an assay of MTT(3-(4, 5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2, 5 -diphenyltetrazolium). The protection rate of fabrics from cell toxicity of UVB was measured by investigating the difference of the amount of cell toxic substance on between fabrics covered with and without HeLa cell The average protection rate of 159 fabrics from UVB was 95.08%. As result findings, three negative correlations were found between: 1) the transmittance rate of UVB and the amount of MTT on fabrics (y=0.0373+0.O0518 x, r=-0.9323, p<0.001); 2) the air permeability of fabrics and the amount of MTT (r: -0.79, p< 0.01); 3) the air permeability of fabrics and the protection rate of fabrics from UVB (r=0.89, p<0.01). However, there was no effect of thickness of fabrics on the protection rate from UVB and the amount of MTT.

The purpose of this study was to identify the effect of religious habits and hair styles on korean catholic sister's impression. The subject consisted of 256 female high school students and 256 female undergraduated students The experimental materials developed for this study were 16 color photographs stimuli of drawing and 7-point semantic differential scale composed of 30 bipolar adjectives representing personal traits. The major findings drawn from this study were as follows: 1) Four factors emerged to account for the dimentional structure of the impression of the Korean catholic sister's in religious habits. Four factors involved purity, formality, potency, appearance. 2) The clothing types and hair styles had significant effect on purity, formality, potency, appearance. The clothing types had an effect on purity, formality and potency while the hair styles affected formality. 3) Perceiver's age influenced impressions formed by clothing and hair styles. Female high school students were affected by clothing and hair styles in formality, potency, appearance while female undergraduate students in purity, formality, potency. Therefore the religious habits and hair styles had significant effect on korean catholic women's impression of purity, formality, potency, appearance and impression formation was varied according to perceiver's age.

The purpose of this research is to show how to use the patternist's CAD system in order to make design patterns efficiantly. Using the PAD System Technologies company's PAD System Module, which is very officiant in designing patterns, the basic pattern or design pattern can be designed and applyed to the Sample Module, thus, then it could manufacture, retouch or choose a model, making it posible to go to the next level which is seam patterns for industrial use. By understanding the change of the design that is chosen through the design pattern making and Sample Module process', this study is presentated a plan on how to utilize the patternist's working adaption ability by the CAD system, and also considered the problems in using it. Ability of Design Confrontation of CAD System: 1) The result of an operation can be saved and retouched. On a saved list the patterns can be chosen and changed, thus, making it posible to complete a design very quickly. 2) When sewing every designed pattern in Sample Module, the model can be operated merely by selecting each sewing position, thus creating the same effect of a designer's muslin sample process in a much lesser time. Point at issue in the utilization CAD system: 1) When combining two darts into one place the amounts of darts that are already these have to be erasers, and then, the two darts points are moved that place, thus, containing them, which is very conplicated. 2) When making a gathering, because system can only be recognized in a opend line, the pattern should be separated in order to put a gathering inside a pattern. 3) In order to readjust the amounte of dart. The dart is erased first and then made new dart again. 4) When making tucks in a Sample Module, the form that gets narrow towards the pivot point can not be recognized so the sewing lines of the tucks is adjusted into parallel lines. 5) The Sample Module 3D operation can not attach the bodice to the shirts, instead they become fixed into each other. In the case of shoulder line tucks the amounts of pleats can not be expanded draperary naturally, thus, making it hard to showing the silhouette accurately. If these problems are solved, especially if the silhouette of a model can be created to have natural drapery in the 3D Module, models can be shown on the screen in possible to compare and examine even a change of a detail, by designing this 3D Module Production sample process will be more effective, thus, making the CAD system more useful in sewing design process.

The purpose of study were 1) to find whether brand loyalty is reasonable measurement for market segmentation or not, 2) to know consumers' purchasing behavior by marketsegmentation, 3) to draw preference jean product. Objects were 462 high school students who live in Seoul and random sampling referred from "Korean school guide book". The questionnaires were selected from the previous studies and various bibliographies. For statistic analysis, percentage, average, ANOVA, x2-test, Duncantest, paired t-test, and multiple regression were used by SAS package. The results of this study were as follows. 1) Consumers were classified into affective brand loyalty group, familiar brand loyalty group, habitual brand loyalty group, brand interest but no brand loyalty group, and no brand loyalty group. 2) There were notable differences in clothes purchasing behavior variable through market segments' purchasing (requency, price. 3) The most Prefered jean Product is 80,000 won, domestic well-known brand, baggy style and preferable jean product shows different when it classified brand loyalty.d loyalty.

The purpose of this study is to clearly understand the Korean consumer's socially responsible consumption attitude and disposition behavior through revealing by use Fishbein's Multi-Attributes Model as a conceptual frame, the relationship between the socially responsible clothing consumption attitude factors and disposition behavior pattern, and relations of demographic variables. Data were collected from the adult females residing in Seoul. Judgment Sampling were. performed twice during March of 1996 and total 549 sets of answers were used for final analysis. The result are following. First, by looking at the relationship between intrinsic side of socially responsible consumption attitude and disposition behavior, the attitude shows more economical disposition when consumers are in considerate about preservation of natural resources and clothing consumption and when consumers favor purchasing a second hand product, On the other hand, consumers' behavior shows more altruistic disposition, when they favor recycling and acquisition of second hand clothing and when not favor fashion. The result of analysis of relationship between the socially responsible clothing consumption attitude and demographic variables shows that income, age and education level relates to some intrinsic side of socially responsible clothing consumption attitude. On the other side, the analysis result shows that consumers with relatively lower education normally practice economical dispotion, while consumers with higher education level do altruistic disposition. Also, elder and married consumers tend to do more altruistic disposition.