No. 5: Fall Squash Carpaccio at the Squeaky BeanA question might pop into your head when you read the description for the Squeaky Bean's fall squash carpaccio: "I don't even know what a musquee de provence is, and you want me to eat it raw?"

You can rest easy though, because chef Chris MacGillivray isn't carving up some weird semi-aquatic mammal for daring diners. Instead, he relies on his restaurant's own farmland to provide produce that he treats with the same respect and creativity as any protein. In this case, the musquee is simply a pumpkin — a big, lumpy pumpkin of French heritage that your server will be happy to point out for you, since plenty of the hefty gourds currently sit on counter tops and shelves around the Bean's eclectically decorated dining room.

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Raw pumpkin doesn't seem an obvious choice as the star of a plate, but the mild flavor of this squash makes it a natural. Paper thin slices are shingled onto the plate and given doses of olive oil and pepper flakes before being showered with a crunchy layer of pumpkin seed granola. A few dabs of goat cheese mousse add creamy contrast, and nasturtium leaves and petals — more than just a pretty garnish — provide spikes of radish-like heat.

The dish appeals to all senses: The pumpkin beckons with a cheery orange hue and its sweet, musky aroma announces its presence as the plate hits the table. Alternating textures — crunchy seeds, silky pumpkin and fluffy, whipped cheese — bolster the sensory experience. But it's the elusive flavor of the pumpkin itself that grabs the most attention. Uncut by heavy pie spices or cloyingly sweet sauces, the pure vegetable presence stands out in a way that makes you feel as if you've never really eaten pumpkin until now.

There are plenty of garden delights dotting the Bean's fall menu, even as winter weather sets in. Sample your way through vivid beets, earthy red cabbage, crispy cauliflower and pureed celery root, but don't pass on the humble and mysterious musquee de provence.

We're continuing to count down the best dishes in the city — from longtime classics that keep us coming back to new additions that have caught our attention. If there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section, or shoot us an e-mail at cafe@westword.com.

Hungry for more? All the dishes in our 2015 countdown are linked below.