I would like to know if anyone has done an rv9 with pull rivets and dimpled skins? I have permission from Vans by e-mail to use pull rivets along with dimpling skins. The type rivet is a MK319BS which has a higher shear and tensile strength also. This rivet can be used to attach all skins. There are no clearence problems also. The reason I pursued this is because there are alot of people who work alone and it just makes the building go easier.As far as looks go the RV 9 would still look like a million bucks. I would like to know if someone has already done this and what folks think of this process. Zenair and Sonex have done well with this process. I think this process should be offered by Vans at least for the RV9. Appreciate all of the comments and suggestions !

Last edited by Jef : 05-18-2007 at 12:50 PM.
Reason: New at this & my e-mail will change.

MK319-BS rivets are really useful for riveting holes that are hard to get to. However, MK319-BS rivets cost $.22 a piece. My count of the rivets in the wing skin, only, shows about 1500 rivets, that 3000 rivets for both wings. You do the math. Ok, I'll do it, that's about $666 in rivets. Interesting number.

Jef,
On my -9 I set 98% of the rivets myself. For the other 2% I had a helper. I bet you will be able to find someone who would be happy to help you out, then you can pay them back with a ride when you are finished.

I can say that solid rivets are a pain in comparison. Note also that Zenair use Avex non structural rivets that are way cheaper than 22c each...Don't ask me how much cus I can't remember but it was pretty cheap.

of course this all assumes you have a pneumatic rivet puller...For those of you with QB's it made setting the steel pop rivets in the flap brace a non event.

I wouldn't, structure won't be as stiff as bucked rivets. Will look ugly, and the whole resale value thing would SUCK. I wouldn't even consider buying an aircraft that was all pulled rivets. That was the MAIN reason I didn't build a Sonex as my first aircraft.

I had very little help and there were times when the help wasn't all that great. There are several areas where I couldn't reach and or access was bad and yes I used some pulled rivets. There are some around the firewall to fuselage skins area, top forward fuselage skin, maybe one or two on horizontal stabilizer skin. Probably about 40-50 overall. Only the experts can find them from the outside. You can do most all of the others by yourself and I would recommend that you buck all that you can reasonably reach. Take my advice knowing that I am a first time (quickbuild) builder with 200+ hours on the airplane. I'm not an engineer, A&P, and have never built anything of consequence other than this airplane. If something falls off in another 1000 hrs., I'll be sure to let ya know.

#2 Back rivet using solid rivets where possible and use the pulled rivets you have already suggested in areas where you find it difficult to drive solid rivets.
Back riveting produces cosmetically superior results to all other methods. I find it easier to obtain great looking shop heads. Back riveting allows the person holding the rivet gun (you) to watch as the shop head forms. It also means that your helper need not have any rivet gun or bucking bar skills. A 12 year old can drop a rivet in the hole and place a flat bucking bar on top of the manufactured head.
Charlie Kuss

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