This new Ring Lite for close-up and macro shooting is loaded with features and capabilities. Now with Canon's E-TTL, it takes full advantage of the flash performance of the EOS-1v, EOS-3, and other E-TTL cameras. Circular twin flash tubes can fire at even power, or varied between them over a six-stop range, and one or more 550EX Speedlites can be used as wireless slaves along with the MR-14EX. The controller unit now has an illuminated full-info LCD panel and its accepts optional hi-capacity battery packs.

Because this unit works through the hotshoe the built in flash wont trigger but you could trigger additional flashes using this unit if so needed.

I think I want the Nikon to match the camera. The SU-800 commander will also mount on top of the camera like the Canon in your picture and will prevent the flash from popping up. I was wondering if there was a way without the SU-800 to prevent the flash from popping up and save me some cash as well as some bulk of not having an extra part on top of the camera!

I believe its for dentistry. Looking at the Nikon system the flashes seem like a long way away from the lens. A ring flash will probably cause less shadow prblems if you are photographing inside the mouth. Also a wired system will tend to be more reliable.

I've never used either though so please wait for someone to confirm this

Hey guys, so I took the plunge today and bought the D7000 with the 18-200mm. Got 16gb memory card and lens cover as well and a package deal for it all. I am in Canada and the US prices for the Sigma and adapter for ring flash are alot cheaper so i am still undecided but likely to get that setup and will probably order that one online but wanted to buy the camera locally as NIkon's warranty isnt valid in Canada if u order from US.

My answer is to the fact that you want only the R1 units to illuminate the subject, without any other interference. Therefore,

1) You *must* use some sort of flash to control the R1, either the infra-red SU800 or a visible one (built-in or SB700/800/900/910). There are radio waves based aftermarket units that work fine with torches, but the SB-200 units are not fully compatible with them.

2) But, there is an inexpensive cheat to the SU800: you can use the camera's built-in in flash as a commander, and use the "SG-31R IR Panel for Built-In Flash" included with the R1 kit, to block it's light. It effectively hides the built-in flash spot completely off the subject, while keeping the transmission the the R1 units.

I would like to share to all Photography Enthusiast about the current dilemma I am in. I have a 2 month old Nikon D7000
mounted with an 18-200 VRII lens. I was doing landscape photography, shooting at Aperture Priority Mode @ f8, f/11, f/16 and f/22 stops. I was devasted to have noticed upon downloading the shots on my computer I noticed black spots/dots on the upper right hand corner of the images particularly (you can also see some on the upper left and mid left areas). I have spoken with Nikon NZ (TA Mcalister) and they acknowledge that some of the D7000 units have these problem. It is clear they have failed to inform consumers and are trying as much as they could to keep their mouth shut about this until someone like me and my friend come in to complain. I am just totally appalled since Nikon already new about this issue with the D7000, why are they still continuing to sell them to innocent consumers? To check the photos I have taken with oil spots, check my facebook link:

A couple of hot or dead pixels aren't really an issue on cameras at this price range, so I must first ask: are the pictures you published cropped?
If they are cropped, although you do have quite a few dead ones, we would like to see the whole picture to see the real extension of the problem.
Now, if your published pictures were not cropped, than we are talking about at least a few hundred of dead pixels and that sure does qualify for repair under warranty (if the other warranty requirements are met).
Consult legal advice at your country regarding your rights on this matter.
For the record, my D7000 doesn't have *any* visible dead pixels, and I do use a lot of cropping, which would enhance any sensor flaws.
For the record #2, in Brazil, the Consumer's Law states that the camera would need to be fixed or replaced for *any* dead pixels during the first 90 days of purchase (if the other warranty requirements are met).
PS. I know it sounds silly, but have you sent the camera for a professional sensor cleaning?

Thanks for the inputs. And the answers to your questions are as follows:

1. I do not crop my images.
2. These are not dead pixels and my camera is already with TA Macalister (Nikon NZ) and they are repairing it. The sad part is, there is already 3 cameras I know of here in Auckland who have the same exact problem and they as well have sent their cameras to Macalister. We demanded a full product replacement as it is a faulty product under New Zealand Consumer Guarantees Act. TA Macalister also acknowledges the oil spot problem with the D7000.
3. Please try to shoot in Continuous High (CH) mode in Aperture Priority with f/22. Shoot a white clean piece of A4 bond paper or a white blank wall. See if your photos are all clean. I bet you will have the same problem as we do.

Living and learning, great to have people like you in the forum, sharing experiences. I did perform your test and, to my surprise, several spots that I ordinarily don't see in my pictures appeared all around the frame!

But none of the spots is larger than a few unit pixels: they are really small, and have irregular shapes, appearing like textbook sensor dust. One is actually a very distinguishable hair from my cat

Yours, on another hand, look very serious and concerning indeed, I insist that my "sensor dust" looks totally different than your "oil spot".

In the D7000's defense, I change lenses *very* often (I always appear to be with the wrong one , and not always in the cleanest environments (beaches, Rock and Roll concerts, back beds of *moving* pickup trucks, weddings, parties, you name it), to say the least. Add that to the fact that I own six lenses (not including borrowed/rented ones), and that my D7000 is close to 50.000 pictures (it is so old that came with the very first firmware), and I have to confess that I'm not surprised at all that my sensor is a little dirty.

But IMHN that my sensor dust is actually so small, that I'm not sure I'll risk cleaning it myself, although I do have a gentle airbrush, and some hand ability. Will probably wait until it gets dirtier, and then send it to a specialized workshop.

Would you please keep us posted about what solution (if any) you found for your oil spot? Man, we do learn from others' experiences!