Is it possible to grow plants in rocks? Some people may think this is a ridiculous idea to do, but the fact is that some plants can be developed in rocks. That is aquarium plants or they are also called aquatic plants.

When you have recognized that aquarium plants can grow in rocks, you will know some stories behind your aquarium. By doing this, you also grow some species in your aquaria such as small fishes and turtles to make a small decoration in your home are more beautiful.

Some common aquarium plants could be grown in the aquariums with rocks or wood

Crystalwort (or it is also called Riccia Fluitans)

Crystalwort is a great type of aquarium plant and it often does not need rigorous care. Generally speaking, Riccia Fluitans could be found anywhere in the world such as Japan, Europe, Thailand, or Singapore. Japanese is the best wild place to get submerged growth.

When floating, it will quickly grow in a shapeless, harshly globular, and slightly pressed down form. Nonetheless, the most common method of getting this plant is to put it into rocks and woods as well along with a thin wire.

After an astoundingly short period of time (around 2 weeks), the thread will be fully done by the plant. It also could be used as a carpet plant to keep your tank clean if there are some stones or threads available on. The consequence effect will be a well-groomed lawn or a covered rock.

Java Fern

Java Fern is a floating aquarium plant from Southeast Asia which is found in the wild with quick currents.

Like Crystalwort, this plant does not need complicated demands and looks bright even in the under a low condition of light and water. Nonetheless, it still needs fertilizer to make the plant looks greener. If not, leaves will turn black and ugly.

Ferns could be grown in a small group or individual only. However, it prefers a stream of water.

They will be stronger and healthier in the middle of aquatic plants and decoration. This is because they cannot develop taller to block the view of plants behind them.

Please note that fern will not have root if you put it into gravel or other substrates.

Magenta Water Hedge

Magenta Water Hedge comes from the Amazon in South America and it has total 170 identified species. This is also known as the easiest species to grow and continue for a new aquascape.

Though you enable to grow it in other conditions, it still becomes a true Magenta Water Hedge when you put this plant in a perfect environment with light, acidic water and appropriate source of CO2.

The purple color offers an efficient contrast to several green aquarium plants in your aquaspace. You can see it is commonplace in the groups of a plant with many backgrounds. It is also considered to fasten the plant on a regular basis. This will help your plant germinates more side shoots and is thicker.

Java Moss

Java Moss is also one of the most popular species used in aquariums and a true option for any aquarist, new users, and experienced persons as well.

For those who are the first time of owning an aquarium in-house, you should raise Java Moss in advance. This is easy to develop and the plant enables to permit a wide range of water conditions.

Some criterions to consider when planting something in your aquariums

Lighting

A proper light is indeed to develop and keep plants in a good physical condition such as Java Ferns, Moss, and some basic stem plants. This will be 2 wattages per gallon is a perfect choice. For instance, if your aquarium is 50 gallons, you would use around 100 wattages of light.

Aquarium filter

All tanks need to have biological and mechanical filtration to keep the inside environment healthier.

The aquarium filter also helps in inflating the water. To effectively hold an aquarium, a filter should run all the water inside the tank around 4 times in each hour. Most of the small and medium aquariums run well with strong filters or a UGF. And canister filters are more suitable for larger aquariums.

Nutrients

Like fishes, plants also need to receive some basic nutrients such as vitamins, minerals, and so on.

You should realize that your tank does not have fixed nutrients and you need to add some liquid plant fertilizer like Seachem Flourish which offers the plants with essential nutrients. For instance, Anubais and Java Fern will consume the water column straightly.

Carbon dioxide

CO2 is also a practical factor affecting the development rates and health of plants in your tank. Many experienced aquarists use CO2 canisters which spread out the aquarium. This works perfectly but the price is expensive.

If your budget is not available for the cost, you will need to utilize DIY CO2 to help yeast interacts with sugar in a Coke bottle.

Or you may try a product like seachem flourish excel, a liquid that gives a different structure of carbon for the plant and similarly works.

Can aquarium plants grow in rocks? Of course, you will see some plants do its way. Apply this phenomenon to get more ideas to decorate your tank – why not?

Dental care experts report that without proper oral hygiene, 75% of dogs show signs of dental disease by three years old. As a result, your dog’s dental care should be emphasized now more than ever; with the ever-growing selection of foods, treats, other delectables comes an even higher prevalence of dental disease in dogs. Canine Gingivitis, gum infections, and other periodontal problems create harmful bacteria which can get into your pup’s bloodstream and damage her heart, lungs, liver, intestinal tract, and kidneys. Familiarizing your pooch with home dental care is the best way to ensure long-term oral health. Coupled with regular veterinary check-ups, most irritation and tartar formation can be treated in the early, preventable stages.

Understanding Your Dog’s Mouth

Before you can successfully care for your pooch’s pearly whites, you should first learn how the teeth develop and operate. Let’s start from the beginning. Dogs are born without any teeth and then grow them two to three weeks later. At two months, puppies have about 28 temporary teeth, including incisors, pre-molars and cuspids (“canines”). But these temporary teeth are short-lasting; dogs begin losing them 1 month later. By the time they reach six months, a dog has roughly 42 permanent teeth. As with human infants, this period of a dog’s life is marked by severe discomfort and pain. Most dogs—like human babies—will chew relentlessly and mouth anything in sight to ease the irritation. An adult dog’s mouth typically includes 12 incisors (the small front teeth) which are used for personal grooming and picking up small objects. Alongside those, four long, pointed cuspids allow your pooch to puncture food and other large pieces. These edible chunks are then passed to the middle of the mouth where 16 premolars begin slicing; finally, 10 molars in the very back grind and crush the remaining fragments into digestible portions for easy swallowing.

Proper Dog Dental Care

First and foremost, you must remain aware of what your dog eats and plays with. Compressed rawhide bones, knobby rubber toys, and dental chews are critical components of dental hygiene; these products aren’t hard enough to damage teeth and actually assist in the tartar-removal process. On the other hand, small toys and most real bones should be closely monitored, since they can pose significant problems if they’re broken into pieces and then swallowed.

How to Brush Your Dog’s Teeth

Ongoing oral hygiene for your dog is actually quite simple. There are just a few basic steps to learn. In fact, the most important factor is not so much the length or duration of each individual brushing or grooming session, but rather in the consistency with which you do it. It’s far better to clean your dog’s teeth a couple of minutes every other day than to have a single marathon brushing once per week. There are several toothpastes and toothbrushes designed especially for dogs at the pet store. Oh, this is a great time to advise you not to use any toothpaste or other oral hygiene product designed for people (i.e. Crest, Colgate, etc.) with your pooch. People ‘paste contains irritants, bleaches, and fluoride, which is not good for the stomach. Of course, we humans typically spit and rinse out most toothpaste residue, but our four-legged pups aren’t likely to follow our lead. They only know two actions: chew and swallow.

Starting the Oral Care Regimen

If you’re just starting out, we recommend the finger brush, a small hood worn over your finger with soft rubber bristles on one side. A similar product is used for human infants, and the principle is the same. You’re using a familiar object (your finger) to introduce the dog to an unfamiliar experience (teeth brushing). Oh, and while you’re inside the mouth, be sure to massage the gums and check for any signs of tartar, which appears as a dark yellow film typically where the tooth meets the gum line. Once your pooch adjusts to the finger brush, you can later upgrade to a regular dog toothbrush. The actual brushing method is also important. To insure maximum effectiveness, try to keep the brush at a 45-degree angle, and be sure to spend time cleaning each tooth and gum line. Spend 1 minute making small circular motions, followed by an additional minute of vertical strokes. This two-minute, two-step process should dislodge those pesky food particles and discourage the formation of plaque. Ideally, try to brush your dog’s teeth several times a week.

Recognize the Red Flags

Due in part to their non-acidic saliva, cone-shaped teeth, and natural chewing habits, dogs rarely have tooth decay. However, if you notice chronic bad breath, oral bleeding, or other unusual periodontal activity, seek immediate veterinary attention. Infection is likely present, and professional help is necessary.

Is So you have decided to get a pet rabbit. Do you know what to look for when choosing one? You may want to do a little homework before bringing any particular bunny home or you could end up with a pet that does not fit your expectations. A healthy and properly cared for domesticated rabbit can have a lifespan of roughly 7-12 years, so you will want to make sure you (and your family) are a good fit for the bunny you choose. Below are some factors to consider when picking out one of these lovable critters.

Size

Decide first whether you want your pet large or small. Some breeds of bunnies get quite big and might not be right for where you are going to keep them at home. You can choose from the tiny ones that weigh only 2 to 4 pounds all the way up to the 9 pounds and over varieties. Determine how much room the animal will have to move around in and then match the rabbit to fit the space.

Behavior

Each Pet Rabbit has its own personality. However, the breed of the bunny also influences its general behavior. So look at the characteristics of each type of rabbit to see what behavioral tendencies are associated with that breed. If you want one that is relaxed and more laid back look for one that is bred naturally to have this trait. The Jersey wooly is an example. Now if you want one that is a bit more curious, the Holland lops might make a good choice. Are you experienced with having pets and want a bunny that is excitable? The Netherland dwarf may be right-up-your-alley.

Type of Fur

What does the type of fur have to do which what type of bunny you choose? It impacts how much physical grooming you have to do. If you do not mind spending time taking care of your then the length of fur will not matter to you. However, if you want to do less maintenance on the coat, then look for the shorter-haired ones to own.

There are four kinds of fur for these animals. Normal fur is what most of the rabbits have. It is short, soft and can hold its shape as the animals are being petted. The Rex type of fur is very velvety and soft to the touch and only on a small number of breeds. The flyback fur is a short fur that bounces right back after being rubbed towards the shoulder from the rump. Now the rollback just falls back in place gently after being petted on backwards. Now the wool breeds have hairs that are a few inches in length. These breeds will take the most grooming.

Body Type

Now along with the tips above for choosing your Pet Rabbit, remember that the body shapes vary between bunny breeds too. You have the semi-arched as in the Flemish Giant, compact version like the Holland lops, full-arch variety as in the Britannia petite, and the commercial versions such as the Giant Angora.

Now that you know what to look for when choosing your Pet Rabbit you will be able to pick the perfect one out for you. These are fun animals to have at your house whether inside or out. As with any pet they are a responsibility and need love and care, but they are worth it all.

You need to take into account the following factors with most any type or breed of rabbit.

Eating Habits

Having a rabbit can sometimes a little challenging for new pet owners because bunnies prefer eating only certain foods. This can sometimes be confusing since they seem to chew up everything in sight when they are first bought into a new environment but they are not eating everything they see; just gnawing on kinda like a dog does with a bone.

Consider a Rabbit’s Natural Actions

This is an important factor to take into account especially if you have kids. While they can get use to it, rabbits don’t typically like it when someone tries to hold or touch them. Rabbits can have a tendency to scratch, bite or even kick, trying to free or protect themselves from people. So if you are looking for a pet for small kids to play with, this might not be the best option. It may harm your children due to its lack of social nature.

Rabbits Can Take Longer Than Other Pets To Adapt To a New Environment A bunny can take more time to adapt you and your family than other pet do. So you will need a lot of patience to take your relationships with your pet to the best level. Therefore a rabbit may not be the most suitable option for kids (or grow ups) who are impatient about everything.

Rabbits Can Be Destructive A bunny can be very destructive, especially inside the home. They tend to chew everything they see. So you will need to always keep them under supervision and to take away all the inappropriate things away, which will cause you some inconvenience at home. For example, this pet may chew up your cable and electrical cords if you do not keep them away from such items.

If you are a new pet owner, you might be wondering what is the best rabbit food. Should my pet rabbit be eating wild rabbit food? Is there a rabbit food list?

Feeding you bunny should be simple. Think of how they eat in the wild and try to mimic it as close as possible.

In the wild rabbits primarily graze on grass. Not only because that is one of the best foods for them, but also because it is plentiful and available in most areas. Your bunny should have a very similar diet.

If you have ever had a garden and there were any wild rabbits (or unsupervised pet rabbits) around, you have probably discovered they love certain types (and parts) of vegetables and fruits. Leafy vegetables are good rabbit food. The best part for them is actually the leafy tops or greens. Yes, this is where the saying “I don’t eat rabbit food” came from.

The occasional fruit is OK, but limit the amount because of the high sugar content. Even though it is natural it can still lead to obesity. The ones that are high in fiber are the best: pears, apples, tomatoes, etc.

A list of the top rabbit foods may be helpful.

1. Fresh Grassy Hay and Water

You should provide your pet rabbit plenty of fresh grassy hay. Timothy, brome, bahia, coastal, oat, paddock, meadow, ryegrass, and wheat are good choices. Do not feed your rabbit alfalfa or clover hay. They are too high in protein and calcium. Do not use any hay that is moldy or old and brown.

Timothy hay is one of the most common. As a primary source of a rabbit’s daily diet, hay keeps their digestive system in balance. If they do not consume it regularly, they may have trouble with their digestive track which can cause them to be sick.

2. Leafy Vegetables

The green leafy top of a carrot is better for your rabbit than the actual carrot. This usually works out pretty good as humans do not typically eat the tops of most vegetables anyway. Just be sure the greens have not been treated with any kind of chemicals and are washed thoroughly.

One common item to stay away from is iceberg lettuce. It has basically no nutritional value and can cause gas in rabbits which is very bad for them.

3. Commercial Pellets

These make a good supplement to your bunny’s diet but should not be their main source of food. You may choose from many different kinds of pellets but the best ones are high in fiber. This type of information is usually printed right on the bag, label, or webpage if you are purchasing online.

4. Fruit

If your rabbit is overweight, do not feed them fruit. Other than that you can give your bunny small amounts of fruit once or twice a week. Sugary fruits like bananas and grapes are considered treats and should only be feed to them occasionally. Yeah, they really like them – just like kids like candy.

Owning one or more rabbits can be a great experience. They make wonderful pets and companions. You will need somewhere for your rabbit to sleep and rest when they are not hopping in the yard or keeping you company indoors. A rabbit hutch is a great way to keep them safe and out of the elements.

Rabbit hutches come in a variety of sizes and styles. Large rabbit hutches are generally the best, as you want your pet to have plenty of room to stretch out and get comfortable. However, if you go too big with a small rabbit they may lose some of their sense of security, so be sure to include a nesting area. An outdoor rabbit hutch is typically made from wood that has been treated using non-toxic chemicals. This is important as you don’t want your rabbit becoming sick from toxins.

When looking for a rabbit hutch for your bunny, there are a few key features you’ll want to look for.

High quality wood – Go for the best you can afford. It will matter in the long run and your rabbit hutch will last longer, and keep your pet warmer and more secure if a high grade wood is used.

Size matters – You definitely want your rabbit to have enough room to move around and designate an area for eating, and one for sleeping. The cage should be high enough for your pet to jump without bumping their head as well. If you have multiple rabbits, be sure the hutch is large enough for each of them to have their own space, even if they choose to sleep together.

Security – Make sure that the rabbit hutch you are buying is solid and sturdy. Remember, you are responsible for ensuring your rabbit’s safety when they are in their outdoor hutch. Raccoons, coyotes, dogs, cats, foxes and even squirrels may try to gain access to your rabbits and/or their food. Choose a cage that is secure from predators and keep your rabbit safe from harm.

Ease of cleaning – You will be far more motivated to clean your rabbit’s hutch more often if it is easy to clean, but do not compromise safety or structure for ease of clean up. Remember, your rabbit is counting on you.

Buying a wooden rabbit hutch is a big decision, but one you will only have to make once.

You Can Build It Yourself Even though we are in the business of selling cages and rabbit hutches, we understand that for many people the cost of buying a rabbit hutch is just not in their budget. However, building a hutch yourself is not all that difficult and materials required for building it are not too costly. If you have some basic carpentry skills, you can easily complete it over a weekend.

If you design your own rabbit hutch, make sure you follow some basic layout rules such as allocating plenty of floor space for your bunny to move around. Another important thing that may impact your design is that, even though they are pet rabbits, rabbits feel more comfortable in a den and not a cage. You should try to design the hutch in such a manner that your rabbit will think of it as their den.

Many commercial rabbit hutches contain wire floors. This is typically an attempt at an easy way to keep the floor of the hutch clean because it allows dirt, any rubbish and the rabbit’s waste to fall through. However, wire floors are way too rough for some breeds of rabbit’s feet/paws and you may need to keep a layer of padding, such as fresh straw or hay, covering the floor. A general rule is: Hay is for eating and Straw is for bedding. If you are building your own hutch you may opt for a vinyl floor covering on a plywood base. The plywood base creates a very strong bottom and the vinyl is relatively easy to clean. The vinyl is also very inexpensive and fairly simple to replace when it gets worn or otherwise needs replacing.

Wire mesh is often used for the front of the rabbit hutch. This is perfectly fine and it allows for air flow to reduce odor formation. Avoiding the use of plastics altogether may be good option, because your rabbit may chew through the plastic over a period of time.

Two story rabbit hutches are becoming more popular than in the past but traditional one story hutches are typically much easier to build. If you want to build a second floor, then you need to use materials that are strong enough to give the support for the additional floor. Metal brackets can be used for extra strength on the sides and in the corners. Ramps can be made using plywood or plank lumber.

If you are building your hutch for the outdoors, bear in mind the temperature fluctuations during the different seasons and design the hutch accordingly. If it is exposed to direct sunlight, remember the changing positions of the sun through the year. If you want to keep your rabbit hutch indoors, then rubber or plastic feet placed on the bottom of the legs will reduce the wear on floor and carpet.

If you have lot of space in the hutch (for the size of your rabbit), setting up a small maze will pave the way for your bunny to go exploring but still remain safe and secure. Even if you build your own rabbit hutch, don’t forget, you will still need to buy some things for your rabbit. Items like toys, a litter box and some bowls.