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you can buy a new block and you don't have to replace the whole harness if the wire just burnt at the block,you can cut it,put on another wire connector and reconnect it to the block with the cord,make sure when you're done all the nuts and connectors are tight so this doesn't happen again and use the metal cord bracket,if it's not on your cord buy one,it holds the cord in place so when the dryer moves it holds the cord in place,if you don't use it the cord could cut on the metal frame and the wire connectors on the block will come loose from the cord moving or vibrating with the dryer running

Hi johnebrenner...
Most likely cause of the wire being burned is a loose and arching connection.
I would recommend that you replace your existing cord and wire with new ones and make sure to tighten your connections very tight, but do not strip the screws by over tighting..
Please take time to rate me

Hi. Ok, with the rear terminal block cover open, you will see three wires. Black on one end, white in the middle and red on the other end. Use your 3/8′ nut driver to remove the nuts or a Phillips screwdriver to remove the bolts (depending on your dryer) and remove each dryer cord wire from the terminal block. When you remove the nuts or bolts, be careful not to drop them down into your dryer. Next, you need to disconnect the bonding jumper on your dryer. The bonding jumper is either a metallic strap (typically copper or copper clad) or a green wire that is connected between your dryer’s neutral (white wire) terminal and the green ground screw connected to your dryer’s frame. If you removed a ground wire instead of a bonding strap from the neutral terminal, you need to connect this ground wire to your dryer’s frame. Loosen the screws at the connector and pull the cord out. Now thread your new cord through the connector and tighten down. This only needs to be snug do not over tighten. Sometimes the old connector will work with the new cord and sometimes not. If not, your new cord will include a connector that you may use. Now,to hook up your new 4-wire dryer cord, connect each wire to the dryer’s terminal block matching color for color (white to white, black to black and red to red). Connect the green wire to the green ground screw on your dryer’s frame. Once the wires are connected, simply recover the space, and secure the cove with the screw provided.

If this dryer doesn't have a cord, you need to go to hardware store for a dryer cord, usually 4 wires 30 amp. the black and the red wires connect to the 2 brass screws with red and black wires already on the other side of the terminals. (oh, you should use a strain relief connector to run thru the knock out (hole) for the cable. The white wire connects to silver screw, which should have a white wire on the inside connection. Now the green wire connects to the green terminal, if there is one, or any other screw that should be marked as ground on the inside somewhere.This should do it unless you don't have the dryer receptacles wired in yet.

Hi,
All you need to do is, attach the middle connection from the cord to the middle post on the dryer. The 2 outside connections on the cord will attach to the outside posts on the dryer. It does not matter on the outside connectors as far as which side they go.
Make sure they are fastened down tight. If the connections are loose at all, they will go bad.
Please let me know if this has helped you at all or if I can assist you further.

This cover is all different sizes and shapes depending on the manufacturer of the dryer, but it is typically very close to where the cord enters the dryer. The cover is typically held in place with 1 - 4 screws. See image to the right of a Maytag Performa dryer access panel.
With the cover open you will see a terminal block with three wires. Black on one end, white in the middle and red on the other end. Use your 3/8′ nutdriver to remove the nuts or a phillips screwdriver to remove the bolts (depending on your dryer) and remove each dryer cord wire from the terminal block. When you remove the nuts or bolts, be careful not to drop them down into your dryer.
Now you need to install a bonding jumper from the neutral terminal to the dryer’s frame. The bonding jumper is either a metallic strap (typically copper or copperclad) or a green wire that is connected between your dryer’s neutral (white wire) terminal and the green ground screw connected to your dryer’s frame.
Installing this bonding jumper is an extremely important step when changing from a 4-wire to a 3-wire power cord to prevent electrical shocks when touching anything metallic on your dryer.
If you do not have the original bonding strap, you can make one. You need a short piece of green 10 AWG wire, 2 ring terminals, a pair of wire strippers and a pair of crimpers. Strip both ends of the green 10 AWG wire and crimp one ring terminal onto each end of the wire. Now connect one end of the wire to the neutral (center) terminal and the other end to the dryer’s frame; where your ground is connected now.
Loosen the screws at the connector and pull the cord out. Now thread your new cord through the connector and tighten down. This only needs to be snug do not over tighten. Sometimes the old connector will work with the new cord and sometimes not. If not, your new cord will include a connector that you may use.
To hook up your new 3-wire dryer cord, connect each wire to the dryer’s terminal block. The 2 outer wires are your “hot” wires and the center wire is the neutral.
Replace the access panel cover and your new 3-wire dryer cord is installed
Before plugging in your new dryer cord, I recommend turning off the breaker to your dryer receptacle. Then plug in your dryer. Now turn the breaker back on. This is not fool proof, but it is a safer way to turn on the power to your dryer if you made a mistake connecting your new dryer cord.
If your dryer is different from the one described above and would like a second opinion on your connections, email a picture of the terminal block to info at ezdiyelectricity dot com. I will post the pictures on this page to help others with the same dryer.

ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTSELECTRIC DryerCIRCUIT - Individual 30 amp. branch circuit fused with 30amp. time delay fuses or circuit breakers.Use separately fused circuits for washers and dryers, and DONOT operate a washer and a dryer on the same circuit.POWER SUPPLY - 3 wire or 4-wire, 240 volt, single phase, 60Hz, Alternating Current.POWER SUPPLY CORD KIT - The dryer MUST employ a 3-conductor power supply cord NEMA 10-30 type SRDT rated at240 volt AC minimum, 30 amp., with 3 open end spade lugconnectors with upturned ends or closed loop connectors andmarked for use with clothes dryers.WARNING – Risk of Shock. Appliance grounded to neutralconductor through a link. Grounding through the neutral link isprohibited for (1) New branch circuit installations (2) mobilehomes; (3) recreational vehicles; and (4) areas where local codesdo not permit grounding through the neutral, (1) disconnect thelink from the neutral, (2) use grounding terminal or lead toground appliance in accordance with local codes and (3) connectneutral terminal or lead to branch circuit neutral in usual manner(if the appliance is to be connected by means of a cord kit, use4-conductor cord for this purpose). USE COPPER CONDUCTORONLY. The dryer MUST employ a 4-conductor power supplycord NEMA 14-30 type SRDT or ST (as required) rated at 240volt AC minimum, 30 amp., with 4 open end spade lugconnectors with upturned ends or closed loop connectors andmarked for use with clothes dryers.

hi thanks for the question does the dryer keep blowing the fuses after a short time if this is happening the problem is in the fuse box for the dryer .the fuse box has a loose connection . so every time you use the dryer the fuse gets hot & fails . replace the dryer duse box thanks the appliance doc