From contemporary art to
Pre-Columbian artifacts, to Mexicos master
muralists, Guadalajara has dozens of fine museums. There
are also over 100 parks in Guadalajara and an excellent
zoo. Following are some examples.

EL MUSEO
CLEMENTE OROZCO: Visit the late artists
workshop, which contains a large

collection of paintings
and frescoes.

INSTITUTO DE LA
ARTESANIA JALISCIENSE: displays of
contemporary handicrafts, utilizing everything
from tin, to blown glass, to textiles. All items
are for sale.

P A R K S

PARQUE NATURAL
HUENTITAN: This enormous park has an
excellent zoo with over 1,500

animals and over 230
species. There is also a planetarium and science
institute with interesting displays. The parks
Selva Mágica amusement park has childrens rides,
and seal and dolphin shows. Nearby is the Barranca de
Huentitan, an enormous gorge that is connected to the
Barranca de Oblatos (see below). Open daily except Monday
and Tuesday; every day during school vacations and
holidays.

PARQUE AGUA AZUL:
This large park within the city limits offers
carnival rides, acres of trees,

grass and flowers and a
large public swimming pool. A large aviary, butterfly
cage, and orchid hothouse are new attractions, added
following a major face lift in 1992. Outdoor amphitheater
features music, dance, and plays.

Outside Guadalajara

On the outskirts of the
city

Barranca de
Oblatos Huentitán Park

Just 11 km northeast of
town lies this enormous 2,000-foot-deep gorge. Lush
tropical vegetation and hot springs make this a wonderful
place for hiking, picnics and some wildlife viewing.

Tonalá

One of the oldest
pueblos in Mexico, this small village to the southeast of
Guadalajara is packed with workshops and factories
producing most of the pottery and ceramics sold in the
area. Tonalá is a less flashy cousin of Tlaquepaque (see
below), but still a very worthwhile excursion for the
hardcore bargain hunter and folk art aficionado. (Come
ready to wheel and deal.) Century-old traditions and
techniques are still practiced, though Batman and Mickey
Mouse have crept onto the shelves as well. Dont
miss the Sunday and Thursday pottery markets. This trip
is easily combined with a trip to Tlaquepaque (see
below).

Tlaquepaque

(tla-kay-PAH-kay) Once a
separate town on the outskirts of Guadalajara, today it
is one of the four municipalities (Tonalá, Zapopan,
Guadalajara) that make up the metropolitan area.
Tlaquepaque (about 8 km south of the citys center)
is now known throughout Mexico as an arts and crafts
center of significant renown. It offers visitors one of
Mexicos greatest shopping experiences, thanks to
its combination of an authentic colonial setting with
affordable high quality crafts and fine works of art.
Note: Prices for works by better known artists have shop
up dramatically in the last few years, although quality
and selection remain superb.

Now virtually surrounded
by Guadalajaras sprawl, Tlaquepaque manages to
retain a "colonial village" atmosphere.
Attractive colonial streets and pedestrian arcades are
lined with former mansions that today house galleries,
fines restaurants, and souvenir shops. The area is most
famous for its innovative, high quality hand-blown glass,
stoneware, ceramics, and colonial style furniture. Many
stores display items in lovely patios surrounded by
fountains and tropical greenery. Some of Mexicos
most famous artists (Sergio Bustamante and Ken
Edwards to name two) have workshops here, along with
larger "factories" that will custom make
stoneware, ceramics and other items.

Head first to the Museo
Regional de la Cerámica (across from the Bustamante
gallery; closed on Mondays) to get an idea of whats
available. The museum war recently renovated and
re-opened (1996). When youre ready for a break,
head to the newly restored Jardín Hidalgo, a
classic Mexican square with shade trees, benches, a
bandstand, and well-tended gardens. Connected to the
Jardín is Tlaquepaques main plaza, El Parián.
This is a series of linked bars and restaurants, all
under one roof with a kiosk in the middle. Dinning,
tequila, strolling Mariachi bands, and more tequila, are
the order of the day here. For an extra special dining
experience there is Sin Nombre, a lovely garden
restaurant with nouvelle Mexican cuisine, or El
Abajeño for grilled meats. Along Calle Independencia
is Diseño adobe, a fantastic new restaurant and
store. Other restaurants include El Patio and Casa
Fuerte.

Most shopping is
along Calle Independencia, a handsome pedestrian
arcade lined with citrus trees and brightly colored
colonial facades. Here are a few of the more noteworthy
store and galleries in Tlaquepaque.

(cha-PAH-lah) despite
its size  population 25,000  Chapala is
quaint, provincial, and has the appearance of a misplaced
English suburb. Several Victorian-style buildings line
the citys main boulevard of inlaid brick with
wrought iron railings. Though populated by retired
Americans and Canadians much of the time, the town is
still very Mexican in atmosphere and appearance.

Interesting sites
include the twin-spired Iglesia de San Francisco
(on a site that was founded in 1528!); the two-star Hotel
Nido (the oldest hotel on the lake; a red brick
building built in 1904 and a favorite of Porfirio Díaz),
the Registro Civil building (a curious looking
blue and white Victorian structure) and the Cazadores
Restaurant (a beautiful but crumbling Victorian
mansion, once the summer home of the Braniff family.)

From this point a cement
pier stretches toward the lake in front of a broad
waterfront promenade, or malecón. There is also an
interesting craft market along the malecón. Boat trips
are available to two off-shore islands. One of the
islands, Isla Mezcala, was the site of a major
battle against the Spaniards during the War of
Independence. Remains of the 19th century
fortress await visitors.

Ajijic

(ah-he-HEEK) This city
is cradled between the peaceful shore of Lake Chapala and
lush forest-clad mountains. Despite a predominance of
satellite dishes, cars with U.S. license plates, and
nearby upscale subdivisions, Ajijic is one of
Jaliscos most picturesque colonial villages,
Brightly painted storefronts, galleries and lovely homes
line the citys grid of narrow cobblestone streets.
A wave of overseas press reports in the 1980s about
the citys "lakeside living on a
shoestring" brought thousands of new American and
Canadian residents. This gringo invasion has brought
surprisingly few changes to Ajijics tranquil
village atmosphere and classic colonial appearance. Aside
from being the lakes most picturesque village,
Ajijic touts some excellent dining, shopping, and lodging
options. A day of exploring takes in several colonial era
attractions.

Sight-seeing best starts
at the citys pretty main square. On the north side
is the small 17th century parish church. Next
door is a small archaeological museum and the Casa de
Cultural, selling Huichol Indian crafts. Two blocks
to the east is the lovely Iglesia de San Andrés.
Built in 1749, this single-spired church is noted for its
whitewash exterior with yellow trim. It faces a beautiful
courtyard with flowering trees and gardens.

Return to the main
square and head down Calle Colón. Here
youll find some excellent boutiques and shops. Most
are housed in converted colonial homes with sunny
interior patios. Stores and galleries include the Centro
Ajijic de Bellas Artes, Mi México, Galeria Daniel Palma,
Opus Boutique. Another attraction is the new "Collección
Billy Moon" compound. This combination
gallery/garden/crafts factory is just west of town in a
large refurbished facility on Calle Río Zula.
Moons works include pottery, furniture, modern
colonial-style art, and assorted decorative pieces. A
small hotel is planned here. Continue down Calle Morelos
to the peaceful shore of Lake Chapala. Mixtec Indians
from Oaxaca wave colorful garments and shawls in front of
the pier.

A new Ajijic attraction
is Tobolandia, an American-style water slide park
on the citys outskirts. Admission is only $15 pesos
for kids/$25 for adults.

A local tour operator,
Charter Club Tours (tel. (376) 53477), operates full-day
bus tours to attractions throughout the area, including
the village of Tequila, a shopping tour to
Tlaquepaque/Tonalá, and city tour of Guadalajara.

Another outlet for
cultural/social activities is the Lake ChapalaSociety,
a foundation/service club with mostly expatriate members.
The society is active in the community, providing
scholarships for local students, conducting health and
safety classes, and raising funds for local causes. At
its lovely garden-filled location on Calle 16 de
septiembre theres a good English library with books
and videos.

(ho-koh-tey-PEK) Founded
in 1528, this is the least "Anglicized" of the
lakes three main villages, and is best visited on
Thursdays when its excellent tianguis marketplace spills
onto the citys streets. Not to be missed is the
citys striking church, with its red volcanic stone
and brick exterior with bright white grout. The nearby
village of San Juan Cosalá (west of Ajijic) has
public mineral baths and pools.

Tapalpa

For a relaxed slice of
country life in Jaliscos pine-clad mountains, do as
the tapatios do, and head to Tapalpa. This peaceful rural
village is one of Mexicos prettiest and most
serene. It is a popular weekend retreat from
Guadalajaras bustle, about a two-hour drive south
from the city. (Frequent bus service is available.)

After a steep climb up
the Sierra de Tapalpa mountains, you find yourself
surrounded by pastures, dairy farms and pine forest. The
city rests on a gentle slope over looking green rolling
hills and distant mountain peaks. You enter this very
colonial city along cobblestone streets lined with simple
whitewashed buildings, topped with layered red tile
roofs. Park near the main square and begin exploring. An
abandoned, fortress-like church sits across the street
from a towering red brick cathedral with gleaming white
mortar. A few steps away is the citys charming
plaza with a small bandstand, wrought iron benches and
shade trees. Surrounding the plaza are colonial-era
buildings with carved wood balconies that seat guests at
several inexpensive restaurants. The setting is pure
heaven.

Tequila

About 56 km northwest of
Guadalajara is the village where most tequila is
produced. Its an enjoyable day trip past blue
maguey fields. Sauza (oldes and most famous), Herradura,
Cuervo, and Orendain all have distilleries. The Sauza
distillery offers tours on Mon/Wed/Friday from 9am-5pm.
For information contact them in Guadalajara at (3)
647-9776. Others offer tours that include sampling, and
even the chance to plant your own tequila plant! Tours
are available from Guadalajara and can be easily arranged
from most hotels. [Panoramex offers tours: (3) 8105057.]

OTHER COLONIAL
CITIES

Guadalajara is the
gateway to a region rich in Old World atmosphere, history
and romance. Known as the "Colonial Circle,"
this region encompasses several villages and towns that
capture the European flavor of Mexicos historic
interior. Take several days to explore these villages and
towns, some of which have changed little since the
eighteenth century. They include San Miguel de
Allende, Guanajuato, Dolores Hidalgo, Morelia,
Querétaro, Zacatecas, Uruapan, Aguascalientes, and San
Luis Potosí. (See Colonial Cities chapter for
details.)

Downtown and just off
the Plaza Tapatía is the massive Mercado Libertad,
the largest open-air market in all of Latin America. Over
1,000 stands line a maze-like layout under an enormous
cement roof. Literally anything and everything is sold
here. Also downtown is El Baratillo, thirty blocks
of the worlds largest flea market great for
antiques; open Sundays from 6am-2pm.

SPORTS
& OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

Golf

Guadalajara is
considered the golf capital of Mexico. There are half a
dozen championship quality courses. Green fees range from
$35-50 U.S. Courses are seldom crowded on weekdays.
Following are courses that allow public play.

Guadalajara Country
Club: 6,821 yards; the traditional favorite; private
course that allows limited public play for visitors. Tel.
(3) 817-2858

Tennis facilities are
also excellent. El Tapatio Resort is one of
Mexicos great tennis centers, with ten lighted clay
courts. There are also courts at the Camino Real,
Presidente Inter-Continental, FiestaAmerican,
and Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza Hotels.

Spectator Sports

SOCCER:
Guadalajara has five professional teams. Matches are
Saturday evenings and Sunday afternoons at the Estadio
Jalisco.

CHARREADAS: The
Mexican rodeo takes place at Lienzo Charro de Jalisco
every Sunday at noon. The charros (Mexican cowboys)
compete in ten events