Description

This is the top most section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends to Xanadu since it is a well-known, easily-identified route. This section is the most breezy, most airy, highest in altitude, and longest to reach. Count on at least a 30 minutes approach. However, on a spring or fall day or in the mornings on a summer day, this stretch of stone is hard to beat for setting close to the Denver Metropolitan area. If there were a place to camp in Eldorado Canyon, this might be the place. It's worth the walk.

Some may call this section of the ridge, the North Buttress. It does seem somewhat distinct from the rest of the West Ridge. Descents off the top can be done generally going left to the gully between The West Ridge & Rincon.

Note, there is still loose rock in sections here. Consider a helmet. Don't forget good judgment. If you come play here, you may be smiling for days.

This is a traditionally-protected area so bring your rack if you visit this section.

For you history buffs, there is an interesting story about how the bold, Alec Sharp spent a sleepless night prior to firing off his intimidating Ministry of Fear in the old publication Bolder Boulder. Many of us ordinary folks with real jobs might spend a sleepless night before putting up a 5.9 s or 5.10 s route.

Again, it's worth the walk.

Getting There

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

Thirty feet left of Chockstone on the North Buttress area of the West Ridge, straight above the first pitch of Muscular Dystrophy, find two closely parallel, right-facing dihedrals that start thirty feet off the ground and culminate in a blocky overhang a hundred feet higher. The righthand of the two dihedrals is Byobu; the left is Fading Light.Approach via the starting dog-leg crack of Muscular Dystrophy, or scramble up blocks to the belay ledge...[more]Browse More Classics in CO