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Related Questions:

Take the starter back out but leave it connected. If it doesn't use a ground wire, make up a heavy wire and use that for ground.
When you hit the key, watch to see if the starter gear moves forward to engage an doesn't just spin. (it engages the flywheel when in place.) The engine isn't supposed to fire if it's not turning.

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.

Negative battery cable

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Remove or disconnect the following:
NOTE
To disconnect the hard-shell connector from the solenoid S terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off; do not pull on the wire. Pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S terminal.

Raise the front of the truck and install jackstands beneath the frame. Firmly apply the parking brake and place blocks in back of the rear wheels.

Remove or disconnect the following:

Wiring from the starter motor terminalsStarter motor retaining bolts, loosenStarter retaining bolts while supporting the starter motorStarter from the vehicle

To install:

The installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the starter retaining bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm)

4.6L, 5.4L & 6.8L Engines

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Remove or disconnect the following:
NOTE
To disconnect the hard-shell connector from the solenoid S terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off; do not pull on the wire. Pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S terminal.

Engage the remote starter switch. Read and record the voltage. The voltage reading should be 0.5 volt or less.

If the voltage reading is 0.5 volt or less, go to the Motor Ground Circuit Component Test.

If the voltage reading is greater than 0.5 volt, indicating excessive resistance, move the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter negative lead to the starter solenoid B-terminal and repeat the test. If the voltage reading at the B-terminal is lower than 0.5 volt, the concern is either in the connections at the starter solenoid or in the solenoid contacts.

Remove the cables from solenoid B-, S- and M-terminals. Clean the cables and connections and reinstall the cables to the correct terminals. Repeat Steps 3 through 6. If the voltage drop reading is still greater than 0.5 volt when checked at the M-terminal or less than 0.5 volt when checked at the B-terminal, the concern is in the solenoid contacts. Install a new starter motor.

If the voltage reading taken at the solenoid B-terminal is still greater than 0.5 volt after cleaning the cables and connections at the solenoid, the concern is either in the positive (+) battery cable connection or in the positive battery cable itself.

By moving the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter negative lead toward the battery and checking each mechanical connection point, the excessive voltage drop can be located. When the high reading disappears, the last mechanical point that was checked is the concern. Repair or install a new connection as required.

Ground Circuit Test
A slow cranking condition can be caused by resistance in the ground or return portion of the cranking circuit. Check the voltage drop in the ground circuit as follows:

Disconnect the inertia fuel shutoff switch.

Connect a remote starter switch between the starter solenoid S-terminal and the battery positive (+) terminal.

Connect the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter positive lead to the starter motor housing (the connection must be clean and free of rust or grease). Connect the negative lead to the negative (-) battery terminal.

Engage the remote starter switch and crank the engine. Read and record the voltage reading. The reading should be 0.2 volt or less.

If the voltage drop is more than 0.2 volt, clean the negative cable connections at the battery and body connections, and retest.

If the voltage drop is greater than 0.2 volt, determine which way the current is flowing in the cable.

Connect the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter positive lead to the end of the cable nearest battery positive.

Connect the multimeter negative lead to the terminal at the other end of the cable.

Crank the engine and observe the voltage reading. The voltage reading should be 0.2 volt or lower. If the voltage drop is too high, clean the terminal ends. Retest, and if still high, install a new cable. If the voltage reading is less than 0.2 volt and the engine still cranks slowly, install a new starter motor.

Voltage Drop Test

WARNING
When servicing the starter motor or performing other underhood work in the vicinity of the starter motor, be aware that the heavy gauge battery input lead at the starter solenoid is "electrically hot" at all times.

WARNING
A protective cap or boot is provided over the battery input terminal on all vehicle lines and must be installed after servicing. Be sure to disconnect the battery ground cable before servicing the starter motor.
Always make the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter connections at the component terminal rather than at the wiring end connector. Making a connection at the wiring end connector could result in false readings because the meter will not pick up a high resistance between the wiring connector and the component.

Hi Anonymous, lift up rubber boot on positive cable to starter, unplug starter relay wire usually green, with a jumper wire connected to positive battery cable starter stud, touch blade connecter on starter where starter relay wire was removed. If starter engages and turns over engine then your starter relay is bad. If starter activates but does not engage then your starter drive/clutch is bad. Good luck

The starter sprocket wheel is thrusted into engaging the flywheel by a big solenoid. That solenoid is integral part of the starter motor. If the starter turn itself but it doesn't turns the engine then either it was incorrectly installed or the thrust solenoid is defective.
Simple test: take out the starter, attach it to a bench, connect to it thew power cables from a battery (the minus one to the body, the plus one to the big connector bolt) then short the big connector bolt to the small one with a screwdriver - the solenoid should activate, the sprocket should be thrusted forward and the motor should start spinning it.If that doesn't happen then the starter you just bought is defective, replace it. If that happens the starter was incorrectly installed on the engine. Reinstall it correctly.

Fig. Fig. 5: Exploded view of a common starter mounting found on Toyota trucks

Connect the positive battery cable (starter wire) to the starter.

Connect the negative battery cable.

RELAY REPLACEMENT

See Figure 6The
starter relays on most of your Toyota trucks are located either in the
relay block in the engine compartment or on the driver's side junction
block. The cover for the relay compartments should be marked, "starter''
or the relay will have a part number with a suffix of 28300-XXXXX.
Simply locate the relay, pull it out, and install a new one if needed.

Fig. Fig. 6: The relay may be located in the driver's side junction block or in the engine compartment relay block

1. The field wire to the starter (the wire that is hot when you turn the ignition switch to the start position, and should be connected to the "S" on the solenoid) has the wire connector pushed over and touching against the main connection and battery cable on the solenoid, or has insulation missing somewhere on the wire and the exposed wire is touching together with an exposed wire from one of the constantly hot wires from the main battery connection on the solenoid.

2. The ignition switch is stuck in the start position (the switch itself, not the key and tumbler) however if you were not having a problem with the ignition switch before you replaced the starter then it is unlikely to be the problem.

3. The starter solenoid is defective. This does happen once in a while and you should be able to have the starter tested where you bought it from.

Since you already replaced the battery I would go the cheapest route and check the battery terminals. They may need to be cleaned or replaced. Even though you replaced the battery you still have a connection problem at the terminals. I would also look at your battery cables and see what they look like because just like the terminals they could also go bad or just need to be cleaned. Also make sure you are getting a good positive and ground connection from the cable ends. If both the terminals, cables, and you have a good connection from the cables then check your starter. The brushes in the starter may be wore to much to engage the starter shaft(bendix) as some call it. This means its time to replace it. You can try taking a hammer or something and hitting the side of your starter and see if the car will turn over before buying a new starter.

a dropped/disconected starter solenoid cable is a good candidate, a heavy cable runs from the battery to the starter, a lighter cable runs from the ignition to the starter solenoid, the ignition key throws the solenoid which engages the starter pinion gear in the flywheel, and connects the cable to spin the starter motor. even loose may not be producing enoug current to fully engage the starter.
there is a fusible link in the battery cable that is a good candidate.
if the battery were disconnected during alternator changeover, look for loose cables at the battery posts, and corrosion on the posts.
if the battery was not disconnected look for collapsed positive plates on one or more cells of the battery..