Ford Bronco Problems

Comments

So, I've got a 78 Bronco Custom, and can't find a gas cap to fit? Have tried both the regular cap as called for, and the California emission cap..no luck with either. Have also tried caps for the 1975- 1980 F-150's....they don't fit either. Have also tried many generic locking caps.....

My daughter had the same problem with her 86 Bronco, left it at the gas station. We went to Auto Zone and stayed there till they found one that would fit......26 minuets!!!!! she is now having problems with the back window.. New motor for the window and it still doesnt work. I finally checked the wires and have found " No power To the motor" I have new fues s so that is not the problem got a clueStrange, I have been answering the questions for a lot of guys out there and no body can answer any of mineJohn

My tailgate window on my 1990 XLT Bronco is stuck up. I've tried pushing in on the gate then lowering, no luck. Any ideas how I can lower the glass to drop the gate and make some of the necessary repairs, ie motor change of test the safety latch. Thanks

Same thing happened with my 78 Bronco. If it's the same set up as mine, the glass is raised and lowered with an x-beam (arm) inside the tailgate. I can get to this x-beam by removing the 12 or so screws that hold the covering panel on the inside of the tail gate. Not certain if the later model Bronco's have this option?

Not much info from you here. Is your Bronco a standard or auto transmission? Your shifter may be done. I'd also check the transmission and then the differentials. Sounds like some gear issues somewhere? Perhaps even a drive-shaft issue?

there's a switch in the locking mech in the driver's side of the tail gate, more than likely that switch went bad. the switch is to keep the window in the tail gate when the gate is down. what you can do is jump the motor, use a 12v power supply, the motor works by reversing the polarity : -+ goes up +- goes down i'm not sure what colors the wires are off hand. if you haven't already remove the carpet, and the pannel, the motor is almost center in the gate find the leads follow them to the conector and pull the conector. with 12v power supply jump the motor if it goes up switch your leads and it should go down. once the window is down open the tail gate, and roll the window out and everything will be able to be serviced. i bypassed the safety switch on bronco, if you do that the only thing you have to worry about is rolling the window out when the tail gate is down.

the switch is a bugger to replace, not as bad as the powerwindow motor. I have replaced the motor and it worked great Now it stopped working again . The motor works but The lock out switch stopped working. I was told by Ford that they no longer make the switch... I would have to wire it directly ..Doesn't sound right//// and as far as rolling the window out when the tail gate is down...It will not happen . that is part of a saftey systemthe tail gate has to be in the closed position for the window to rise.

I have a 1978 Bronco, and just had the same problem. Don't know if your Bronco has the same back window set up as mine? I left the tailgate closed and in the up position, and then removed the interior panel on the tail gate (easy access, and about 12 screws). Inside the gate, the rear window is moved up and down with a metal x-beam. One of these 2 beams was slightly bent, and would not let the window move up or down either manualy or electronically. Straightend out the beam by bending with some pliers. All good now. You should be able to lift and lower the window manualy if you have an acess panel to the gate on the interior portion of the gate.

I had a 93 XLT and had several problems with the back window. The first was just a matter of removing the access panel and putting the nut-bolt-grommet configuration back through the mounting holes at the base of the window and reattaching the x beam track. The second was the motor. It wasn't any fun but I disconnected the glass from the x beam track, lowered the tail gate and slid the glass out far enough to get to the motor. I used a padded chair to support the glass while I replaced the motor. Reconnected the glass and it worked. Eventually the rod at the bottom of the tailgate that actuates the safety switch broke and it would go up with the tailgate down. Before I would do ANY of it again I would try to find a replacement tailgate. That's just me though.Good luck

I understand Developer.. I have no access to what you are alking about.There is an access pannel but with the window in the down position. ..I have no access to anything.

Everything is behind the glass, I am almost thinking of cutting a hole on the outside. And I don't know wheer you are located but Ecology Auto wrecking in Santa Fe springs always have Bronco s. Like I said , The Ford dealer told me to break the windowand just replace it after fixing the motor. John

Did you reach the two wires that are connected to the motor?. There is a connector close to the motor at the bottom of the gate. Try to supply 12 V to them. I´ve got bad contact in this connector. Never failed since I changed it. Find a boy with a thin arm so he can reach the wires and pull them out. Good luck.

a friend of mine has a 90 eddie baur edition of the bronco and his real tailgate window wouldnt go back up, he found out that the wiring harness was being pinched by the cable wire not being pushed aside before closing the tailgate, that harness located in the tailgate with the cable leading into the taillightnot only controls the tailgate window, but also controls the power locks and power windows in the vehicle, id check your wire coming out of that harnes into that cable from the tailgate into the taillight to see if any of the wires are damaged.

I have owned my 89' Bronco XLt for 10 years and it has stopped running on many occasions and at the most inconveniece times. After checking everything, everytime it stopped I replaced the ignition module( attached to stem of Distributor, and installed one from Napa, I have replaced the module form Autozone and other discount places and found that the jello in the back and the tube of mayonnaise given in the box can not handle the heat from the distributor. So the heat will cause the module to short out and when the module is cooled, it will start again... :

Lat year I attened the bronco meet or Ford car show at Knotts Berry Farm... Funny you should be talking about the problem you are having!!I ran into a guy there that had the same prob.

He made a heat shield for the problem and has never had it happen again.. 1. take a soup can.. 2. cut in half3. cut a round hole in it the will fit around and below the Modual. tighten it up and Viola--- heat shiel installed and should have no more problems... Funny what a soup can can do.

The shaking you are refering to is in the fron, where in the front, and does it do this at all speeds, or at different times. It has been a directive of mine that all problems must be taken to at least three shops. If 2 of the shops say the same thing, then you have narrowed it to the problem. But the shaking can also be from having the tires be out of balance, thats why it is important to understand where and when for the vibration.

Jevelsoll;I read your response and Intrigued, now let us adjust this, how do we cut the can, like a half empty can, or top to bottom like a sideways barbecue(55 gal drum laying sideways). then you say to cut a whole in it, is the hole for what reason, and then do you wrap it around the distributor where the module would be place as to have the module not touch the distributor. please advis me,,,Thanks

Apparently from you diagnosis the tires are spread farther out at the bottom farther than the top. This has to do with the alignment. It seems the camber adjustme is out of alignment. So ge the alignment..