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Hi,
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i believe your talking about the lower tourqe boxes. the lower control arm bolts to it. i dont know if they can be replaced or fixed, i do know summit racing has reinforcement plates by competition engineneering part #cee-8015. hoped this helps goodluck. QTRHRS

Replacing the axle would be the best thing to do. However you could build a new bracket and weld it back to the axle. But it is always possible that the weld will not hold. The axle housing is thick enough that you can get a good weld. But depending on how much confidence you have in your welding.

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Before building a monster engine to make it go you need to think about upgrading everything else that makes it stop and not just go around corners, but handle well through a series of corners.

It would also pay you dividends to examine the stiffness of the body. There was a case where Ford increased the power of one of their small cars in the 1960's only to later discover the increased torque reaction from the rear axle was causing some alarming cracks at the rear of the body shell. Subsequent cars had many extra pieces welded into the structure.

It is true for most people most of the time the manufacturer's specifications make the best compromises it is possible to make though it should be recognised a manufacturer never puts more into a vehicle than is needed; a production vehicle is like a delicately balanced equation and when something is changed the equation will become unbalanced unless other measures are taken to rebalance it.

It is quite impossible to answer your question as it would take hours of wading through vehicle data references just to make an initial list of possible vehicles and then more time to examine and measure possible donor vehicles in a number of breaker's yards. I suggest you begin by approaching your local repairer and asking if you can search his old data books and the dimension you are seeking is not the wheelbase (the distance from the front axle to the rear) but the track (the distance between the wheels on the same axle).

Starting such a project with the engine is rather amateurish and often doomed to failure.
I advise you to read some of the wisdom on the subject from the famous David Vizard and his contemporaries.

Yes, it is welded on. Generally you can have a welding shop repair what you have or if you can find one in a scrapyard that isn't usable (broken gears or other damage) they can cut the bracket off and the welding shop can weld it onto yours. Only other option would be to replace the entire axle assembly end to end but that's more expensive and would depend upon if the other brackets on yours are in good condition or are on the verge of failure as well, making a repair less of a good idea.If you do need to replace it, make sure you match the gear ratio or you will have bigger problems than what you have now.

Rear
Fig. 5: Detach the speed sensor connector in the luggage compartment
Fig. 6: Grasp the harness and . . .
Fig. 7: . . . remove it from the routing brackets
Fig. 8: The rear speed sensor is mounted on the back of the hub assembly
Fig. 9: Remove the sensor retaining bolt and remove the sensor from the hub

your problem can be simple or it can be terminal u have to jack up vehicle and see exactly what went-- if spring and shock tab bracket broke off if upper frame broke/rotted ---most everything on frame can be replaced bolted/welded back on can get parts from salvage yards ,online and or dealer even frame can be channeled welded but it will be labor intensive if u weld or know a welder the parts are simple enough its the frame sectioning that will be ur costly problem if needs replacement good luck

Hi,Please follow the complete steps as provided bellow.1.Before you remove anything off the truck, measure the pinion on the front and rear axle differential. Make sure to record this measurement as we will want to put each axle back to this angle after the suspension lift kit is installed. This is especially important for the front axle. Putting the front axle back to the same measurement will keep the stock camber and caster.2.Jack up the truck and place a jack stand under the frame on each side of the truck. Jack the truck up enough so that the front tires are just barely off the ground. Take a motorcycle strap and wrap the strap around the differential and to the frame. This will help keep the axle in the general proximity while the factory suspension is removed and the 4 link is installed.3.Remove shock absorbers, coil springs, swing arms, rear swing arm pivot, and sway bar.4.Use a ¼”drill and drill out the centre of the rivets that hold the coil brackets to the frame. A couple of the rivets you may not be able to drill. Next, use a cut-off wheel, grinder, or rivet buster to remove the heads of the bolts. You can use a torch, but it will be more difficult to punch out the rivets. Chances are you will have to use a grinder and grind the **** off the rivets flush with the stamped part.5.Locate upper bag mount and drill out the four 3/8” rivet holes in side of the frame to ½” Bolt the brackets to the side of frame using the four ½” grade 8 bolts. Make sure to check the back side of the frame for brake lines, fuel lines and on the Excursion, heater lines.6.Locate rear trailing arm bracket and fasten to the frame using the ½”bolts provided. You will first have to remove the factory transmission cross member. It will be required to drill the (4) holes in the bottom of the frame. Be careful not to drill into any fuel lines. After you fasten the two brackets to the frame, install the new cross member. Fasten into place using the 5/8” bolts. Fasten the transmission into place using the factory nuts.7.Locate the lower air bag mount; position this part on top of the axle. On the passenger side you will need to drill a ½” hole in the flat part of the axle. There is no drilling on the drivers’ side. Fasten into place using the 14mm metric bolt. If you use the factory bolt, it will need to be shortened about ½”. Locate the cross member that connects the two bag mounts in place. Fasten using the ½” x 1 ½” bolts.Step 8. Locate the upper and lower trailing arms. Install the arms so that the upper arms are the same length and the lower arms are the same length. Try and install so the pinion angle is close to original.Thanks for contacting www.Fixya.com

Shock Absorber Removal
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
1. To assist in removing the upper attachment on shock absorbers using a plastic dust tube, place an open end wrench on the hex stamped into the dust tube's metal cap. For shock absorbers with a steel dust tube, simply grasp the tube to prevent stud rotation when loosening the retaining nut.

Remove the shock absorber retaining nut, washer, and insulator assembly from the stud on the upper side of the frame. Discard nut. Compress the shock absorber to clear the hole in the frame, and remove the inner insulator and washer from the upper retaining stud.

Remove the self-locking retaining nut, and disconnect the shock absorber lower stud from the mounting bracket on the rear axle tube.

Place the inner washer and rear spring insulator (5536) on the upper retaining stud, and position the shock absorber so that the upper retaining stud enters the hole in the frame. While holding the shock absorber in this position, install a new rear spring insulator , washer and nut assembly on the upper side of the upper frame. Be sure to seat the rear spring insulator in the frame attaching hole. Tighten nut to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).

Extend the shock absorber , and place the lower stud in the mounting bracket hole on the rear axle assembly housing. Install a new self-locking retaining nut. Tighten nut to 76.5-103.5 Nm (56-76 lb-ft).

Lower vehicle.

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Arm
Lower Removal
Refer to the illustration in Description and Operation.
NOTE: To improve rear axle assembly noise and vibration concerns, the rear suspension should be fastened to the frame and rear axle assembly at the curb height position. NOTE: If one rear suspension lower arm requires replacement, also replace the opposite rear suspension lower arm . WARNING: TURN REAR SUSPENSION LEVELER COMPRESSOR SWITCH OFF (IF SO EQUIPPED). NOTE: If both rear suspension arm and bushings and both rear suspension lower arms are to be removed at the same time, remove both rear springs as outlined under Rear Spring Removal. For air spring removal, refer to Section 04-05 .

Raise the vehicle, and support the frame side rails with jackstands. Refer to Section 00-02 .

Support the rear axle assembly .

Lower the rear axle assembly , and support the rear axle assembly under differential pinion nose as well as under rear axle assembly .

Unsnap parking brake rear cable and conduit from upper arm retainer.

Remove and discard the nut and bolt retaining the rear suspension arm and bushing to the rear axle assembly housing. Disconnect the rear suspension arm and bushing from the housing.

Remove and discard the nut and bolt that secures the rear suspension arm and bushing to the frame bracket, and remove the rear suspension arm and bushing . If upper arm rear bushing is to be replaced, use Suspension Bushing Service Set T79P-5638-A and Rear Axle Control Arm Bushing Tools T86P-5638-AH and the following procedure:

Place the upper arm rear bushing remover tool in position, and pull bushing out. Using Suspension Bushing Service Set T79P-5638-A install bushing assembly into bushing ear of rear axle assembly.

You could weld the keyway and file it back to size or replace axle. To upgrade, check with some of the big axle manufacturers like strange engineering etc. They could likely help or point you in the right direction. Anything you do will be $$ though.

The only real solution to your problem is to replace the damaged line, bleed the brakes, and check for leaks after you are done. The line should go up to the frame, and go into a small metal bracket that is welded to the frame. The hose is usually held in place by a small metal clip, and a steel brake line will thread into the end of the hose assy. where it terminates in the frame mounted brakcet.