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Chapter 12 Apollo 13 region 2 DVD at (32 minutes 35 seconds) as the fuel is bumped though the large manifolds up though the centre channel exterior then interior as it moves around the command module on the surrounds at (32 minutes 36 seconds) as Fred Haise (Bill Paxton) turns his head and eyes into the direction as it sweeps around the surrounds then a breathing like sound on the left side is heard. The Saturn V is now ready to go.

I’d hath to run further tests to check the internal frequency ether with frequency sweep and plug the LCRS into one of the few tools REW or spectrumlab to see what is happening in terms of frequency.

Checked the LCR and there have been some changes to frequency at 100Hz on left and right as they have been reduced recently and now increased on the parametric EQ. Centre needed to be reduced at 100Hz as it was now too strong, so a little reduction and checking with all-channels added together with a few minor distance level settings altered over LCR.

My other active crossover 2WEX (2-way crossover) think its crossover is set at 500Hz not sure which type of crossover network system? It does its job but there is no way I can use this for tweeter control as it would be too strong!

I can use it like this!

Set the inputs as normal and then pass the outputs though a mixers line inputs 1 LF left 2 HF left 3 LF right and 4 HF right and then use the outputs from the mixer left and right to pass into the surrounds processor Pioneer VPS-200 which is what I’m thinking about doing.

This will provided a simple treble boost and cut control seems complicated no its basic and straight forward, thou I would prefer another DCX2496 for the surrounds and sub bass.

The picture of the inside is bit overexposed the flash as defused the PCB and that’s the fault of the camera.

I’ve been doing some thinking while looking over a JBL 2235 looks a bit dodgy if you ask me.

Precipitation of the low end!

How it arrives at the listening position at different intervals due to differences in frequency response and range over the seating area that should be uniform.

I tend to get spots where the tone is around the left side of my head and somewhat less on the right side. Now if I turn slightly the tone appears or seems to be equal but there are slight minor gaps between the two-seated-sofa.

Nothing to difficult to try and understand, but with one sub it does seem almost impossible to get all tones to radiate uniformly. I can get some tones to do this but not all.

I was thinking maybe multiplexing microphones because I can tackle everything more or less at the same time without having to keep repositioning a single microphone every 5 minutes!

A simple patch bay or microphone multi-mixer with inputs and outputs that can be patched into the computers RTA and simple switch or muting of each microphone to determine which parts need addressing over the seating area.

Now I can’t very well place the SONY CRT onto the JBL 4645 just not possible without the colour getting cowed-up or discoloured with magnetic damage to the CRT colour guns.

I can’t even flip the sub over to put the 18” nearer to the centre as it would be too near to the SONY CRT. Also placing it up higher will present issues with line-sight its will suited where it is. Also getting the height of the LCR lined up again and the tone of the frequency range will also change. Isn’t it a bitch?

I’m guessing six Behringer ECM8000 of the same microphone placed over the seating area two for each seat one forward and one placed back a bit as well as placing some in the middle so that all areas would be covered for analysis on an RTA.

My dad dropped around a few items this morning one such item may reduce some of the clutter in the living room with this wooden frame table thingy.

I sized up one side of it that might be suitable for the Alesis RA300 amplifiers and more.

I’ll size up an RA300 and if it fits in on one side I’ll start disconnecting the whole system and drilling the holes for the amps rake slot holes, hope they fit?

This is going to take the best part of the day and its pancake day as well, bugger I like pancakes.

I’ll let the CD finish then start disassembling.

“Disassemble! No not disassemble”!

I tried one Alesis RA300 and the screws is no go, so I’ll work a way around that and lay them on top of each other and there is mild heat issues at risk, I’ll keep them well vented to allow airflow around them.

Time from disassemble to reassemble slightly over 4 hours.Pink noise has been tested over LF/HF LCR and is in correct order.Surrounds have been tested and are also in correct order.Sub bass LFE.1 tested and in correct order.

Now this has made only slight difference in the stacking height is less depth less width just a tiny bit.

It’s just a little bit neater than before. It will have to do for now, until I can afford some racks which are long overdue and get all this in the bedroom out of the way.

Reservoir JBL’s full range “Lets go to work”.

At the present time, with more time, on my hands I’m dealing with the matching LCR yet again with the two subs playing the same range in the low end department 15Hz while the remain frequency response sweeps though up to 16,000kHz.

So far applied a frequency cut on the left channel as it was a bit high between 15Hz and 47Hz a little Q not going to talk about the rest of the sound politics too much until its finalized.

Now I have a few more things to address and attend too. Same technique of “In & Out” I get out of the room while it does the full range sweep, as to not disturb the sound waves.

Also I decided too have a little fun, but being serious at the same time.

Now you channels’ will all be using allies on this EQ. Here are your names.

Something even bigger coming…!

A close friend called yesterday and asked if I would like a 32” Panasonic CRT FST. I asked how much? £50.00 pounds I asked why and that I’d be surrounded with CRT he laughed and I asked isn’t that your old CRT that evidently he gave to his girlfriend and that she’s got a flat screen now.

So I said done, deal.

Only problem now is? What do I do with the SONY 27” CRT and to think I was just getting used to it.

I have the Toshiba 20” in the bedroom for myself and Sooty my cat. The kitchen is no good as I’m only meters away from each room. I measured/sized it up no way impossible to fit in the kitchen and besides its waste of electricity. I might put it aside on the floor in the bedroom and place the SONY in the bedroom.

Now the other issue is colour strain due to the subs on each side of the front, that’s right there placed back up front again. I’d soon find out if there’s a colour strain issue and I need my friend to stay around for while, while I try out different positions as its rather heavy to lift on your own.

Also this would change the front JBL control 5, height placement. There positioning at present is spot-on for directional hard and half dialogue panning and I’m not about to screw that up because it takes hours to get done right.

The width of the Panasonic will push the JBL 4645 over slightly to the right more, sigh. If I can get the platform built it would help with the LCR placement where I wouldn’t have to stack the JBL control 5 onto tower speakers and empty boxes just so that the height is correct.

Anyway not sure what day he’s bring it over and I’d pay him half now and another half in few weeks and he’s cool about that.

Just had a rather inspiring bright light idea for JBL control 1 LED project!

While looking at the new JBL LSR 2300 series which as blue LED placed in the middle of the baffle and while watching one of my favourite Star Trek original laserdisc to DVD-RW the motion picture (1979) as Enterprises leaps to warp 1, leaving a colourful light trail of colour behind it.

I was suddenly thought there’s enough space behind the grill to baffle where the JBL badge logo is, what if I place a three segment LED type on small PCB glued to the back with the wires hidden. It would then produce a colourful bright backlighting effect when the lights are turned OFF.

Now one of my friends dabbles in electronics for living as he teaches this each day at school and has he’s own production company. Now all I need to get from him is his opinion on LED type and size, I’m sure he’ll find it fascinating.

I know the price of the LED’s is cheep and I only need 10 LED or maybe a few more extra?

I was just thinking what about sticking inside the enclosure I mean I haven’t seen the light-bulb fuse light up since I’ve had the JBL control 1 as I keep levels within reasonable SPL db and it takes a bit of loudness to light them up.

Just placed a small deposit down on an LCD Hitachi CP-X430 video projector that is going was going for £225.00 now only £150.00 to pay off as the owners other half was kinder enough to lower it to £200.00.

I’ll figure out what to do with it when I pick it up after final payment which, should be around May 2009.

Bulb is new in the projector and finding a supplier like eBay or other as it would need back-up bulb and kitty box, to save up for the next bulb. I was told the cost is around £300.00 whoa! It’s no different than a cinema projector expect specifications of course.

I’ll figure out a design to secure it to the ceiling at the back or wherever to give its optimum brightness and size width or diagonal size on diy screen.

Found this piece of information on it. It’s just too wet my, appreciate for now.

The manual for Hitachi CP-X430 LCD projector is not from Hitachi.us because the link to the manual in Hitachi website is not found. Reason being [The link from the referring page may be either invalid, the URL may have been mistyped or the page may have moved due to our redesign.].

Thus I tried to search from other website and finally I found a copy on touchboards.com

Type of screen? Now I sure don’t have hundreds for screen so I’d have to look around at what is on hand and see if it can’t be put to some good use. Fabrics are not all that good it needs to have some degree of refractive gloss or neutral matt look

Perforated is important to allow the sound to pass though.

I wonder if there’s any second hand screens going or maybe new ones at revolutionary low price.

Mounting it would have to be closer to the upper middle rear ceiling.

One thing is clear thou I won’t be using this all the time, due to bulb life 2,000 hours. I’d use it for new films or the odd one now and then, but use the SONY CRT for most regular viewing, so I’d have to make screen that can be removed kinder like pull down screen but perforated.

At most its 83 days running time at full, halve that and it should give around 1 year at best. That would mean around few films once every week average is 2 hours, hmm, yeah about a 1years worth out of the bulb damn costly.

Average domestic light-bulbs don’t even cost no more than £1.00 pound today and some might last just over 1 year. Sigh, the price you have to pay for life’s little luxuries these days sigh.

Just got off the phone with a friendly chap where I was asking for perforated screens. He said we don’t stock them and replayed some company’s that do supply perforated screens micro screens due to the different size in perforations VS distance.

I knew instantly what he meant about some customers complaining about seeing the regular cinema screens due to the size in perforations and VS distance. In a cinema front seats are at least 20 feet or more away from the audience.

In the home you’re considerably a lot closer due to the room size length.

I wanted to look at my options for screen as I was thinking about a bed sheet not that there is anything wrong with the idea, it just won’t have the refractive surface.

So I thought how about taking a hobby drill as this is for model making and drill bits are very tiny for precession model drilling. Now if I can look at sample micro perforated screen or use it as (template) placed over a none perforated screen I could drill out the parts of the screen I need.

For example if screen speaker is placed LCR at given distance width and height of speaker as well, all that I need to do is drill the holes for the width and height and yes it would take days if not weeks to do this.

Also due to drilling small perforated holes and only in three locations might, stick out like a soar thumb with kinder grey tone look, maybe?

Anyway the chap is sending me two samples to look at so I can evaluate and make decision to go with non-perforated and modify it for less of the cost or track down a suppler for perforated screens and pay a bit more.