Ringneck has become more scared

Hi! Hoping to get some help and advice. I bought a Ringneck 8 months old a couple of weeks ago. He's now in quite a large roomy cage and of course was quite scared to begin with. He backs away to the furthest corners of the cage whenever I go near it and when I change the water and food bowls he clambers around all over the place trying to get away!

He started the odd squak and a couple of times started to imitate a whistle I kept doing. I opened the cage up and he quite readily came out, went around the room and eventually went back in. It got to the point I could put a piece of apple on the end of a very long stick and he'd very cautiously nibble it from inside the cage (grab a bite then retreat to eat)

Great! I thought he was getting used to me and the environment. But this week his behaviour has changed and he has become more scared He still backs away and flaps around inside the cage when I get near or change the bowls but now he takes quite some time before leaving the cage and backs away/is scared of the long stick as well.. isn't tempted by the apple piece on the end of it. Plus he has stopped making any noises at all.

He still eats from his food bowl after the coast is clear but definitely seems more scared of me (and my other half!)

He's eating cucumber pieces, seeds. I put in some leafy greens, carrot bits, peas but he seems to only eat the cucmber and apple pieces. I put some apple in his bowl after he's out the cage as a reward I suppose for when he goes back in.

sunnysmomJoyriding the NeighborhoodCelebirdy of the MonthMayor of the AvenueAvenue Spotlight AwardI Can't Stop Posting!

Welcome to the forum. First, I would stop using the stick. Start from step one and just spend time with him sitting with him quietly. Read a book or something just to let him get used to your presence in a non threatening way. Also, where is the cage located? Against a wall gives him more security. Also, if he's super scared you can try covering his cage on three sides, for now, to help him feel more secure so he's not on alert for danger from all sides. Try to take things slow and move at his pace.

I've put the stick away and will find something to cover the back and sides of the cage. It's currently in the corner of the room but near the door. Hard to put it anywhere else. Maybe with us coming and going it's not helping!

Today I'll try just sitting quietly next to the cage. He actually ate some of the leafy greens today and yesterday made some noise again which was a bit of a relief!

So I sat next to the cage for some time but he didn't budge from the far side and then went to eat after I moved away.

He was let out of the cage twice today and went back in of his own accord. I guess the apple reward is encouraging that much! But he did do the first part of my whistle and made some other sounds trying to mimic something so I think that is encouraging.

He still flaps all over the cage when I reach in to change food/water and retreats to the far side of the cage when I get anywhere near it.

Question: should I continue with letting him out (and his going back in) on his own? Should I leave the cage door open and sit next to it?

MonicaBiking along the boulevardCelebirdy of the MonthMayor of the AvenueAvenue Spotlight AwardAvenue Veteran

If he's not okay with you sitting near the cage, then don't do that. That can actually instill more fear and result in them being stressed out. Think about someone with arachnophobia (fear of spiders) and then forcing them to sit next to a tarantula. It's not going to be possible for them to do so calmly and quietly... all they might be thinking about is if the spider somehow manages to get out of the container and attack them and any move towards that human will cause more fear and stress in that person.

If your bird is okay with you sitting near the cage, then great! Do it! But the behavior you are describing? No... not a good idea...

Some things to try.... move slowly, talk quietly/softly, do not look at him directly, if you don't need to change food and water dishes, then if you go near the cage and he's on a perch, then great! But if he moves to attempt to hide away, then stop/back off. Any time you do walk by his cage, drop a special treat into a cup very slowly. Something he doesn't get in his normal diet.

What size is the cage? Maybe a bigger cage may help, or having a cage where you can access food and water dishes from outside the cage will help.

I have an african ringneck, probably wild caught, and after learning that she's most likely wild caught, I haven't really worked on taming her, but I have worked with having her remain calm while I'm around. Now, she's still at the back of the cage when I change food and water, however, she's not thrashing around the cage or attempting to hide as far away as possible. She's on a perch. Not necessarily the furthest away perch, either! I had to work with her, very slowly, to teach her that she *can* remain on a perch and be okay and I wont make a move towards her. It took some time. If she's at the front of the cage and I get near, then she does flap to the back! Except for the other night... had bags of bird items handed over to me and no place to put them. Underneath the ARN's cage just so happened to currently be free of other bird related items! Without even thinking, I walked over to Sylphie's cage to put the bag (a potentially scary object!!!!) underneath the cage. (on a shelf that's part of the base). I was a foot away when I realized that she was sitting at the *front* of the cage. I was pretty much like "Oh crap! I forgot!". I stopped, looked down, slowly lowered my body kind of down/forward, placed the bag on the shelf, then slowly backed up. When I look at her again, she's just sitting there looking at me not knowing what's going on, but she hadn't moved from her spot. I thought that was pretty freakin awesome!!!

zoo momRipping up the roadCelebirdy of the MonthMayor of the AvenueAvenue VeteranI Can't Stop Posting!POSTAHOLIC

If your bird is scared with you sitting next to the cage then move farther away when sitting with him. You may have to start with sitting across the room. And don't face the cage. Sit so your side is facing the cage. When he seems calm with where you are sitting you can move your chair a little bit closer. It may take weeks or months to be able to sit next to the cage.

When you change food and water. Talk softly and/whistle to him. And do not look directly at him. It may help to put a toy if the cage that he can hide behind provided the toy doesn't freak him out.

Time and patience is required to get a bird comfortable with your presence.

You can tell when he wants to be out because he paces along back and forth along the top perch and clambers around the front. So then I open the door and after a bit of time he perches on the exit then goes out. Then he tends to make his way top of the curtain rail at the far side of the room and sits there observing things.

Normally we sit on the sofa which is couple metres away and not directly facing the cage. He eats and goes more relaxed when I'm on the sofa.

I'm finding some cardboard to cover the side and back up and thinking about where I can move the cage to, because it's near the door. Trouble is my room hasn't got much space to move the cage to!

As you can guess I'm new to bird keeping! Any advice on cage set up also welcome He doesn't seem to play with anything though tries to chew up the ladder a bit and uses the top of the twisted rope at the back as his roosting/sleeping spot.

What kind of toy can I add to this cage he could hide behind? Should I reshape the rope one?

zoo momRipping up the roadCelebirdy of the MonthMayor of the AvenueAvenue VeteranI Can't Stop Posting!POSTAHOLIC

Go to Toys and Cage Bypass and look through the threads for ideas on cage set up. Also you can build a playstand on top of the cage with rope perches and branches or branch perches. DIY drive is another forum on here you should visit.

I believe that cage is a little small for an IRN long term. But I am not sure what is available where you live or your space or budget.

For a toy to hide behind get a toy that dangles. I am not very computer savvy so not sure how to include a link to the type of toy I am talking about.

I’m having my own taming woes with a new IRN an we are having similar experiences with fear. I’m following this thread with great interest.

I have found that Pavitr shows a keen interest in soft music on my phone or iPad as well as nature sounds and will move nearer the iPad and by default nearer to me. He tasted my hand and nibbled at some apple during last evenings videos but today lost his mind when I put his breakfast in. Baby steps.

A couple of comments on your cage set up. I like smallish cages for taming easily frightened birds. It’s easier to secure them in the event of an emergency. If they injure themselves with their violent flapping and running away I can get to them more quickly and they are less likely to further the injury by continuing to evade me. Also, when they are covered on three sides, the smaller cage is more cozy and they just seem to relax more than in a huge cage. That said, unless your IRN will be out much of the day, I would advise a bit more room once he is tamed. I also can’t tell what cage wire it has. Asiatics have a good bit of beak strength so keep an eye on the powder coat and the wire to be sure he’s not flaking the coating off.

Another thing I noted, and this goes back to beak strength, the plastic ball toys are fine for some medium parrots but if you can crush it with your foot, an IRN can crush it with their beaks. I would advise something much sturdier. Also, I avoid/remove bells. I’ve known of a number of birds who have died from swallowing bell clappers. I know that thousands go unharmed but with my luck, one of mine will be an exception to the rule.

Look at some ideas for foraging toys. They can be very simple and cheap to make. And don’t be afraid to fill the cage with play things. Mine love the grass mat toys that I hang on the walls.

Today I tried the “walk up to cage and stop when he gets scared” idea. Managed to get fairly close to the cage then he hopped from perch to back of cage. I stood still and waited for him to get back on the perch before turning around. Quite tiring!

Later in the evening I let him out as usual and took the opportunity to cardboard up the sides and back of the cage. So the top and fromt remain uncovered. I’m really worried if this is a good idea?? He took forever to go back in and when i went to check on him he was breathing really heavily and perched on the front of the cage. He didn’t flap around even with me right in front of him... think he’s terrified of the new setup! Help!

Ok panic over! I ended up spending a good while with him making soft noises and he calmed down and went on the perch in the end. This morning is still jittery but eating again. Phew! That was worrying...!

I made a mistake with Pavi last night myself. He had been responding so well to videos, I decided to open his door and see if he would venture over. He did come out but it was a disaster and I quickly regretted not waiting longer. The one good thing that came out of it was that he did step onto a perch from the floor but I fear I have set us back a week or more.

It’s really all about patience and trial and error. We are going to make mistakes. It’s not unusual for even tame birds to have a strong reaction to changes in their cage. I’ve had Skyy ten years and certain new toys still freak her out. As long as your IRN has calmed down and is eating and drinking, no harm, no foul.

finchlyBiking along the boulevardMayor of the AvenueVendorI Can't Stop Posting!

Blue dragon, forgive me if I am wrong but it sounds like you are pushing it a bit. Hang out with your bird. Read to him from the other side of the room if you have to (cage door open). I did this for 30 days and it made a HUGE improvement.
If you walk toward the cage and he is fearful, take a small step back and stand there instead, not looking at him.

Your bird isn't going to be completely tame in a week or even a month. What you're looking for is baby steps. He didn't puff when you were 4 steps away --win! He knows you bring a treat every day at 5 pm and starts looking for it - win!

Also put a perch on the outside where he can step on it from the door. It'll give him a feeling of control

Well covering up the sides and back of the cage was to make him feel more safe as suggested above. I guess he was scared of the change but has gone back to his normal behaviour now i.e. eats and drinks fine in the cage, backs away when I get near and otherwise preens and beak grinds like normal.

So I think he's got used to that now. I got scared because of how he reacted.

He willingly leaves his cage and then returns to it afterwards, especially in the evening to sleep. I don't force him out or in.

The only thing is I have to reach in to change his water bowl and food, no way around that. He isn't flappng around quite so much but still hops on to the rear panel of the cage.

Pavi is doing this behavior too. He will come sit on his outside perch almost so near he could be sitting on me. I can read, mess with my phone move my hands and he’s fine munching away but if my hand moves in his direction with intention to give him a treat or put something in his bowl, you’d think I was a bird eating monster. He hurried inside the cage to the furthest back corner and hides behind his toy. Then the day is done. He won’t come back out even hours later.

Food and water changes are unavoidable. I have been taking a small piece of apple or pepper or a blueberry and dropping it in a clean treat bowl when I do his food and water. I have moved the treat dish a little further back every day and it now sits at the back corner on the opposite side of his hiding place.

Once I started doing this, he became a little curious about what was going in the “special dish” and the violent flapping and honking subsided. I keep everything on the side he DOESNT hide in so I never invade his safe spot. I also leave as soon as I feed. When I go in now, he’s looking for a treat.

Apples and blueberries have proven to be very high value treats for him. He has decided that even one berry is worth my hand in his cage. I don’t know if you have tried using a favorite treat every time you hand goes in? O have to give tiny pieces because he would be very fat otherwise. Lol