The island is monopolized by normal, regular French people of average means in the normal, regular business of being on holiday: riding bikes, picnicking, swimming (even though the water never averages more than 64 degrees), buying honey at the market, wearing out the plastic cafe furniture.

When it comes to off-the-charts cookies in France, all roads lead to Le Petit Duc, whose Oreilles de la Bonne Déesse, or Ears of the Good Goddess, are an adaptation of an elaborate Roman porridge recipe that uses olive oil, red wine, pepper, honey—and cumin.