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Friday, October 23, 2009

“Have I got a ‘Story’ for you!”

The venue (All photos: Randy Brooke)

Last evening was Fashion Group International’s annual Night of Stars Gala, which was held, for the second year in a row, at Cipriani Wall Street. As FGI President Margaret Hayes recounted, this event was a rather low keyed affair when it started out 26 years ago. It was a far more intimate gathering, attended by a correspondingly small, intimate group of fashion insiders, and for many years it was held in a small elegant room at the Pierre Hotel. Boy, how things have changed. Without doubt, each year, the super star quotient seems to be upped a bit more (‘stars’ not only from the world of fashion, beauty, etc., but from every area of the entertainment industry including Academy Award winners) and this time, it was positively ‘ablaze’ in the star power of such musical legends as Jon Bon Jovi, Michael Stipe, Mary J. Blige, and Gwen Stefani, who served as presenters. But while a hip, plugged in, rock musical theme was hard to ignore, the title this year, and the umbrella which linked the 11 “stellar honorees whose generous spirit and creativity have made a significant impact on design and culture” (in the words of Margaret Hayes), was “The Storytellers”.

Simon Doonan

And how fitting that once again, Simon Doonan, irreverent ‘host with the most’ outrageous, politically incorrect, ad libbed quips and comments, and story teller extraordinaire, should serve as host for the festivities. And boy oh boy, did Simon have a story to tell! During cocktail hour, I asked if he had a good story planned; he said, “Yes, and you’d better laugh”. And laugh I did, as did most in the 550 strong who filled the grand and stately venue. He started out by saying “I’m not quite sure what Margaret was smoking when she came up with the idea of “storytellers”, telling Margaret, “I have my own ‘story’ to tell. And it’s not very pretty”. But quite frankly, by the time he was through, he had me wondering what he was ‘smoking’! While it was impossible for me to write it all down, I will say that what followed was a very detailed and fantastical story linking each and every one of the evening’s honorees in an utterly absurd way, as only Simon could have possibly pulled off.

Iman observing that Michael Kors stands for relaxed luxury; “when I think of glamorous people who jet set around the world, I think of Michael”. “This man is a story teller on the runway, and he uses cashmere, silk jersey, etc., to tell his story”.

Michael Kors: “You’re only as good as the people you surround yourself with.”

Jon Bon Jovi crediting his pal Kenneth Cole with having “chutzpah” when he began selling shoes in 1982 (so much so that he wound up selling 40,000 pair in two days); “He always thought out of the box…the shoe box in his case”. “Kenneth always takes a position and makes a stand…he’s fearless and at the forefront “It’s great to be known for your shoes, but it’s better to be appreciated for your soul.” (This play on words was very much in keeping with Kenneth Cole's love of puns)

Victoire de Castellane: “I want to thank the women who wear my jewelry and the men who buy it”. By the way, what was this celebrated jewelry designer wearing? No, it was not a big necklace, which might be the trend du jour, but two amazing rings, one very pronounced bracelet, and a black hair band that resembled something a Playboy Bunny might have worn serving cocktails decades ago.

Hamish Bowles: “Oscar is the most unruffled designer we have”

Grace Coddington: “Oscar, you’re totally awesome!” (Her comments took the prize as the shortest of the night)

Oscar de la Renta: “It’s amazing to be able to do for so many years, what I love to do most- this is an extraordinary industry” (The dapper and ageless designer was visibly moved by the award)

It’s been widely observed that CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg has been “aggressive” in her desire to increase the number of new members being admitted to the organization. While in the past, it was 15 to 18 new members added annually, this year, that ‘magic’ number is 31:

Although these names were announced back in July, the formal celebration did not take place until this past Wednesday. Instead of honoring the inductees at the not so ‘humble’ abode of one of its celebrated members (Vera Wang’s fabulous Park Avenue apartment, Reed Krakoff’s amazing east side townhouse, or Elie Tahari’s sprawling Soho loft for example), this year, the festivities took place in the Grill Room of the storied Four Seasons Restaurant. Actually, it was a ‘two for one’, since the cocktail soiree also marked the CFDA’s 50th anniversary. By the way, it wasn’t lost on me that the just the name, Four Seasons, made it more than appropriate for a fete involving fashion designers, who seem to endlessly churn out 4 seasons worth of clothing (though on second thought, these days, it’s more like ‘endless’ seasons, than just 4 seasons).

In addition to Diane’s obvious zest for adding new names to the fold, there’s the familial aspect to it all; she’s been known to lovingly refer to the CFDA as her “extended family”. And as if to echo the sentiment, when I asked Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, who were among the new inductees in attendance, what being a member of the CFDA means to them, they said, “As Diane has stated, it’s all about being part of an extended family”. Coincidentally, it’s obvious that family is very important to the talented and precocious 23 year old twins; they named one of their labels, Elizabeth & James, after two of their siblings.

Speaking of families (many or most of which are somewhat dysfunctional); there is that feeling that we in fashion, are part of one big ‘happy’, (or sometimes, ‘unhappy’ family, as the case may be). But regardless, one of the fun aspects of attending these periodic get togethers, (‘family reunions’), is not only meeting and greeting the ‘new’, but seeing ‘old’ faces from the past; and when I do, it’s as though time has not passed.. On Wednesday, that included names like Sal Cesarini (who also spoke of how great it was to celebrate the young and the ‘new’); Mary Ann Restivo, and Cathy Hardwick, among others.

-Marilyn Kirschner

Tenth Annual National Design Awards

Francisco Costa winner of the fashion design award

New York is arguably the most eclectic and exciting place in the world. In this city, we expect to see a variety of interesting and unique people and celebrities. However, it’s not every day that one witnesses a gathering of such a diverse group encompassing the likes of an actor, an artist, a newscaster, a CNN anchor, a chef, a world renowned physicist, a broadcast journalist, a hotelier and fashion designer all under one roof. Last night, Cipriani on 42nd Street provided the venue for these and other fascinating attendees of the Tenth Annual National Design Awards. Champagne and Bellini’s circulated throughout the crowd as did hors devours which all seemed to be set atop a small piece of toast – goat cheese and asparagus, tuna tartar, etc. David Stark Design & Production created the giant number “10” which was graphically patterned with the names of all the winners and hung just inside the entrance.

Launched at the White House in 2000 as an official project of the White House Millennium Council, The Smithsonian's Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum celebrates outstanding achievement in design in various disciplines. First Lady Michelle Obama serves as the honorary patron of the 2009 Awards. This year, Francisco Costa (for Calvin Klein Collection) was selected as the winner in the Fashion Design category. Finalists in this category included menswear designer Thom Browne and sisters Karen and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. Francisco has twice been named Womenswear Designer of the Year (in 2006 and 2008) by the CFDA and when I asked him how this award compared, he replied, “It’s an amazing honor to be recognized by the Smithsonian for design… it’s different than being judged by my peers in fashion, it’s quite a humbling experience.” He added, “You don’t do the work to get awards, you do it because you love it. If awards come, of course, it’s nice.” While two CFDA awards are certainly nothing to sneeze at, when it comes to the National Design Awards, the process, requirements and judging are intense.

The 2009 nominations were solicited from a committee of more than 2,500 designers, educators, journalists, cultural figures and corporate leaders from every state in the nation. Nominees must have at least seven years of experience to be eligible and winners are selected based on the level of excellence, innovation and public impact of their body of work. Mr. Costa’s award was presented by actress and face of Calvin Klein’s latest ad campaigns, Eva Mendes who did not show up on the red carpet with Costa. I was standing next to a reporter from US Weekly who was hoping to get a quote from Mendes. “She NEVER talks,” the girl said. Who cares? Costa was more than gracious and quite obliged to chat and after all isn’t that who we’re interested in? He is the talent being recognized, not Ms. Mendes. Costa said, “The demographic of America has changed and we are able to reach a more diverse customer through Eva.” He talked about a sense of Americanism returning to fashion and that Calvin Klein was the master of Americanism. “That’s the essence of Calvin Klein,” he said “it’s a tremendous lifestyle brand. I’ve been looking through the archives and he (Klein) was such a visionary.”

In addition to Fashion, several other design categories were recognized. The winners and presenters are as follows: Corporate and Institutional Achievement Award to Walker Art Center, presented by artist Chuck Close; Product Design Award to Boym Partners presented by actor/writer/director/producer John Waters; Interaction Design Award (new this year -- celebrating exceptional work using digital technology) to Perceptive Pixel Inc. presented by CNN’s John King; Design Mind Award to Amory B. Lovins presented by broadcast journalist Charlie Rose; Lifetime Achievement Award to Bill Moggridge presented by industrial designer Niels Diffrient; Communication Design Award to The New York Times Graphics Department presented by New York Times executive editor Bill Keller; Design Patron Award to Lincoln Center President Reynold Levy presented by Katherine Farley of TishmanSpeyer; Interior Design Award to TsAO & McKOWN Architects presented by architects Machado/Silvetti; Architecture Design Award to SHoP Architects presented by architectural expert Reed Kroloff; Landscape Design Award to Hood Design presented by Professor and Architecture Program Director Achva Benzinberg Stein; People’s Design Award presented by chef Tyler Florence. People’s Design Award to Hans Eckholm, senior industrial designer for Trek Bicycles presented by chef Tyler Florence. The People’s Design Award allowed the public to vote for their choice of design between September 21 and October 20. The winner (Trek for the Lime - a coasting bike for the casual rider) was announced live at the National Design Awards Gala. Paula Zahn was the evenings emcee and other notable attendees included; Gala Chair Richard Meier, Gala Vice Chair Lauren Zalaznick, Ralph Rucci (last year’s winner in the fashion design category and 2009 jury member), designer Eileen Fisher, hotelier Ándre Balazs and John Maeda, Chair, President of Rhode Island School of Design (and also a 2009 jury member).

The Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum is the only museum in the nation devoted exclusively to historic and contemporary design. The museum is hosting National Design Week which takes place October 18-24. During this time, they will offer free admission to all visitors and provide a range of online resources celebrating design. National Design Week aims to promote a better understanding of the role that design plays in all aspects of daily life. Target is the sponsor for The National Design Awards and National Design Week. To find out more you can visit www.cooperhewitt.org

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Lookonline.com is the longest publishing online fashion site in the world. It was launched first as a BBS service in 1993 and has been on the Internet since December 1994. The DFR: Daily Fashion report is also the first fashion blog and was started in early 2002 as the site's main news page. Before launching the site, I was for many years a New York fashion photographer.