Description:Matucana variabilis is one of the geographical form of the widespread and morphologically variable Matucana haynei. Many of its morphological and geographical variant was early classified as different independent species, but nowadays all this plant are considered part of a multiform species, where each form is linked to others by populations of plants with intermediate characteristics. Matucana variabilis is clearly part of the Matucana haynei group. It has thin variable spines (cream to amber coloured) suggesting the epithet.Stem: Globular or slightly cylindrical approx 8 cm tallSpines: Very numerous that cover completely the epidermis,.Radial spines: 20-25 (or more) bristly flexible, short, white, creaminess-yellow or amber coloured with a darker tips.Central spines: 1-10 creamish, yellowish to orange-pink, stouter and acicular.Flowers: Glossy pink and white tubular and zigomorphyc.Blooming season: Throughout late Spring or early Summer often in several flushes over a long period.

Subspecies, varieties, forms and cultivars of plants belonging to the Matucana haynei group

Matucana haynei subs. myriacantha(Vaupel) Mottram: has very short stems, rarely more than 8 cm high, and as many as 10 central spines and 25 radials. Distibution: above Balsas, Cajamarca.

Matucana herzogiana var. perplexaBackeb.: similar to Matucana haynei subs. herzogiana, but with more numerous and longer spines. The flowers are bright red and zygomorphic. Distribution: Cordillera Negra, Peru

Matucana multicolorRauh & Backeb. in Backeb.: has multicoloured spination. The central spines ranges from amber, to black-brown, to black-violet, or nearly white. Distribution: Nazca-Puquio road at about 4,100m ASL.

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Cultivation and Propagation: It is a summer-growing species of relatively easy cultivation. This plant is adapted to dry soils and is quite susceptible to over-watering if kept in a non ventilated place. Growth rate: Matucanas grow slowly in their natural habitats, but in greenhouses they grow more quickly.Soil: Grow it in a rich, open, sandy-gritty cactus compost. It needs good drainage and a deep pot to accommodate its tap root.Repotting: Repot in the spring when the roots become cramped. Generally, these plants should be re-potted every other year, in order to provide fresh soil. However, this doesn't necessarily mean they'll need larger containers. After repotting, do not water for a week or more. Exposure: It is suited for sunny-brightly exposure, but can tolerate light shade. However it will do its best only with lots of sun and become stressed with inadequate light which could result in poor growth and unnatural shape. Direct sun is also beneficial in order to get a good spine coloration.Watering: Water sparingly and keep it completely dry during winter. Mature individuals easily rot and die especially after transplanting so be extremely cautious with watering. Keep dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C. Water it less than average if in bigger pots.Fertilization: Feed them once during the growing season with a fertilizer specifically formulated for cactus and succulents (high potash fertilizer with a dilute low nitrogen), including all micro nutrients and trace elements diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label. They thrive in poor soils and need a limited supplies of fertilizer to avoid the plants developing excess vegetation, which is easily attacked by fungal diseases.Special need: It is suited for airy exposures. Provide very good ventilation. Nearly all problems occur as a result of overwatering and poor ventilation, especially when weather conditions are dull and cool or very humid. They must have very dry atmosphere.Hardiness: It likes warmth (recommended minimum winter temperature 5° C) But plants kept perfectly dry but may to survive a light frost. Pests & diseases: These cacti may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation. Nonetheless, there are several pests to watch for: - Red spiders: Red spiders may be effectively rubbed up by misting the plants from above. - Mealy bugs: Mealy bugs occasionally develop aerial into the new leaves and flowers with disfiguring results, but the worst types develop underground on the roots and are invisible except by their effects. - Scales, thrips and aphids: These insects are rarely a problem. - Rot: Rot is only a minor problem if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. If they are not, fungicides won't help all that much.Propagation: Usually propagated from seeds (seldom produces offsets). The seeds can be sown in pots of fine, well-drained sandy soil, any time during the spring when temperatures are warm. Cover the seeds with a fine layer of grit and water from below with a fungicide to prevent damping off. For the 1-2 weeks cover the pots with a sheet of glass/clear perspex to keep the humidity levels high. Remove the glass and replace it with light shade-cloth and mist once or twice a day for the next two weeks after which most seeds should have germinated. From then on mistings can be reduced to every second and then every third day as the little plants grow. The seedlings should not be disturbed until they are well rooted after which they can be planted separately in small pots.