SYRACUSE, N.Y.—Ed Young, a ticket collector here at the Great New York State Fair, said he can usually spot a city slicker at the turnstiles.

But while nearly a quarter-million people were on hand Saturday through Monday here, during the first few days of the 12-day event, Mr. Young said not many he greeted seemed to have made the 250-mile journey from the New York City area—even though Amtrak runs trains directly to the fairgrounds.

City youth, in particular, he said, "would have a good time up here."

Part carnival, part trade show, this kaleidoscopic showcase of all things Empire State spreads this year over a 375-acre swath of land. And its offerings reflect the vast agricultural, commercial and cultural world beyond its best-known burg.

Attendees can see the usual proud display of prize livestock, antique automobiles and cooking and craft exhibits. Popular shows include a demolition derby and performers ranging from Carrie Underwood to regional hypnotist Marshal Manlove.

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Show horses bide their time while getting bathed by their owners.
Heather Ainsworth for The Wall Street Journal

But there are plenty of fair offerings attendees may not expect, whether it is drinking a wine slushie crushed from upstate grapes, seeing llamas running obstacle courses or attending a show of trained wolves.

"It's all New York made," said Troy Waffner, the fair's acting director, pointing to educational stands inside the Center for Progress Building, which included booths ranging from craft-jewelry makers to an antiabortion group giving out free plastic-fetus figurines.

"It's a whole lot of contrasts," said Mr. Waffner.

On one side of the fair is the Dairy Building, a hub of yogurts, cheeses and milk products that Gov. Andrew Cuomo earlier this year said are the main drivers of New York's agricultural sector. New York is the third-largest producer of milk and number-one producer of cream cheese and cottage cheese nationally, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

An almost life-size sculpture of a dairy farmer dropping off milk at a food bank, made entirely of butter, stood in the center of the dairy building, a homage to the industry's role in helping feed some of the state's needy.

For the first time, a yogurt stand was also introduced at the fair, Mr. Waffner said, celebrating New York's status as the nation's largest producer of yogurt.

"Sales have been very good," said Gary Repko, general manager of the Yo2Go Yogurt stand, which sources from a Cornell University dairy.

On the other side of the fairground, not far from the Ferris wheels and roller coasters, a different scene awaited spectators inside the Dairy Cow Birthing Center, a place where "udder miracles" are performed.

"You can now see the cow having contractions," said an announcer quietly over a microphone, as the pregnant animal lay heaving inside a hay-filled pen. The birthing process could be unpredictable, said another announcer, responding to a question from the audience, adding that it can go quickly or span several hours, not unlike with humans.

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The Swing Buggy ride whirls as onlookers take it in.
Heather Ainsworth for The Wall Street Journal

For Cheyanne Cresong, a 14-year-old girl from the tiny town of Little Falls, located midway between Albany and Syracuse, the experience was her favorite at the fair. "I've never seen a calf be born before," she said.

Culinary offerings at the fair presented particularly creative ways to induce a heart attack this year. Several mix sweet and savory flavors, including a pork-and-potato "parfait," pizza in a cone, chocolate-dipped bacon on a stick and a beef-and-fried-ice-cream sundae.

Some of the longest lines could be seen outside James Hasbrouck's Fried Specialties truck, where a sign issues this challenge to customers: "You bring it, we'll fry it."

Requests have ranged from fried Big Macs to ramen noodles and even fried whiskey. The only request he won't oblige is a cigarette, which a customer asked him to deep fry three years ago. He cited health board restrictions and the risk of spilling tobacco in the oil.

Mr. Hasbrouck's signature delicacy this year is the Twinx: A Twinkie wrapped in bacon with a Twix bar hidden inside. It has been selling fast, despite the obvious health risks, he said.

Shael Dehors, 32, of Syracuse, tried one but had some regrets.

"The bacon's too much," she said, despite her professed love for the stuff before she bit in.

Hundreds of people lined up in the Center for Progress building at the unclaimed-funds booth to see whether they were entitled to a slice of the state's $13 billion from uncashed health-insurance checks, stock dividends and refunded utility deposits.

The New York State Comptroller's Office said one person was entitled to $1.7 million dollars.

Kenneth Smith of Kirkwood, Tehama County, discovered he was owed a small fortune by the government. "They say they owe me $589," said Mr. Smith, 59 years old, who vowed to put most of the money in the bank.

But for an event that prides itself on showcasing the best of New York State, officials said there were few exhibits or items that represented its largest city, the Big Apple.

The few exceptions were Brooklyn Lager and a handful of New York-made whiskey brands, available for purchase at David Tadros' New York State Brew Pub and Distillery.

"It's not an agricultural area," said Mr. Tadros, referring to New York City.

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A group of children delight in riding down a giant slide.
Heather Ainsworth for The Wall Street Journal

The fair sounds like fun, and a couple of years ago I might have driven the four or five hours to get there, and spent a couple of days, and a passel of money. Since New York State passed their draconian gun laws, however, the state is on my list of places that I no longer visit for any reason.

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