The hike-in West Point Inn on Mt. Tamalpais, once accessible by the mountain's railroad service.

The hike-in West Point Inn on Mt. Tamalpais, once accessible by the mountain's railroad service.

Photo: Jill K. Robinson, Special To The Chronicle

Pioneer pastimes on Marin mountain

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Sprawling from Mill Valley past Stinson Beach, Mount Tamalpais stands guard over Marin County like a fairy-tale spirit of nature. From the deep shade of its redwood forests to the ocean air that sweeps across its western grasslands, the mountain has influenced poets, outdoors enthusiasts and visitors from next door to around the world.

The majestic mountain impressed Robert Louis Stevenson, the Scottish writer who spent his honeymoon in 1880 on Mount St. Helena near Calistoga, later immortalized in his book "The Silverado Squatters." On his way north, Stevenson was mesmerized by Mount Tamalpais: "Its stately head, blue as a sapphire on the paler azure of the sky, spoke to us of wider outlooks and the bright Pacific."

Early visitors to Mount Tam took advantage of trails, a wagon road and a railroad, which carried people from Mill Valley to the summit. Railroad remnants can be found at the East Peak's Gravity Car Barn and the West Point Inn, a way station where steam trains once met stagecoaches. Today, you can drive or hike to the summit; the diverse trail system takes hikers through redwood groves, grasslands and chaparral-covered hillsides.

Mount Tamalpais is so convenient to Bay Area residents that it's an easy day trip. But stay the night and the wilderness experience allows visitors to live like mountain pioneers - with a panoramic view from the Pacific Ocean to Mount Diablo.

With this kind of vista, who needs an expensive penthouse?

Why now?: While Mount Tamalpais is beautiful in every season, the best times to visit are during the spring and early summer, while temperatures are moderate. In spring, wildflowers sprinkle the hillsides and canyons, such as the pink calypso orchid, striped fetid adder's tongue and all shades of douglas iris. In summer, pop in and out of the coastal fog layer while on the mountain - a refreshing option during a long hike.

The backstory: The mountain's name comes from the Coast Miwok Indian words for "bay mountain." Trails were developed for recreational purposes when San Francisco's population grew after the Gold Rush. The Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway, established in 1896, carried visitors up the mountain over 281 curves. "The crookedest railroad in the world" was in operation until 1930.

Spend your day: Mount Tamalpais State Park has more than 50 miles of hiking trails that connect to a 200-mile trail system managed by the Marin Municipal Water District and Golden Gate National Recreation Area. One of the most beautiful is Steep Ravine, which plunges into a redwood canyon with ferns and churning waterfalls.

On the way back, stay on Rock Springs past the Mountain Theater and relax at O'Rourke's Bench - with a jaw-dropping view of the ocean.

Dining: If staying at the West Point Inn, your best bet is to pack your own food. Overnight guests at the West Point Inn can use the kitchen for meal preparation, and the Mountain Home Inn's organic cuisine is about an hour's hike away. Plan your stay around the West Point Inn's monthly pancake breakfasts, and the morning meal is a tasty score.

If staying at the Steep Ravine Cabins, the cafes and restaurants in Stinson Beach are within a 10-minute drive.

Don't miss: A stop at East Peak, the highest point on the 2,571-foot mountain. On a clear day, the breathtaking view includes Mount Diablo, San Francisco Bay, the hills of Marin County and the Farallon Islands. While there, visit the Gravity Car Barn, which houses a replica of the cars that carried passengers down the mountain with only gravity and a brake.

Don't bother: Bringing Fido to Mount Tamalpais State Park; dogs are not allowed on state park trails (except the Pan Toll campsite and the Alice Eastwood Road). If you'll be hiking on Marin Municipal Water District trails where dogs are allowed, they must be on leash.

Word to the wise: If staying at the West Point Inn, park at the Pan Toll Ranger Station or the Mountain Home parking lot, where overnight parking is permitted.

If you go

Getting there

Mount Tamalpais State Park: From Highway 101, take the Stinson Beach exit and follow the signs along Highway 1 to the mountain; (415) 388-2070; links.sfgate.com/ZJMI. The park is open daily from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. (during summer, hours may extend to 9 p.m.). Overnight stays are possible in designated camping areas or lodges.

Where to stay

West Point Inn: (415) 646-0702; www.westpointinn.com. Seven upstairs rooms and five cabins available for advanced reservation (three months in advance for nonmembers). Overnight guests should bring flashlights, sleeping bags and towels. Low-season rates are $35 per adult (high season is $50 per adult). Children ages 2 to 18 are half the adult rate (kids under 2 are free).

Steep Ravine Cabins: These 10 rustic cabins are $100 per night and can be reserved (with a booking fee) through www.reserveamerica.com, (800) 444-7275. Reservations can fill up seven months in advance, especially for weekend availability.

Several campgrounds are open year-round on Mount Tamalpais and can be booked through www.reserveamerica.com. (800) 444-7275.

Where to eat

Mountain Home Inn: 810 Panoramic Highway; (415) 381-9000; www.mtnhomeinn.com. Enjoy the spectacular view while dining on organic American cuisine for lunch or dinner (dinner reservations advised). If you yearn to have breakfast here, you'll have to be an overnight guest.

West Point Inn: (415) 646-0702; www.westpointinn.com. From April through October, hike up to the West Point Inn for a pancake breakfast, offered one Sunday each month.

East Peak Visitor Center: At the top of Mount Tamalpais is the East Peak Visitor Center, which includes a small museum, a video documenting the days of the Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway, the Gravity Car Barn and a refreshment stand. The center is open only on weekends; in the summer, the refreshment stand is open daily.

Nature Friends Tourist Club: Established in 1914, this branch of German Nature Friends is a members-only club that welcomes non-members on selected weekends. The club's three annual German culture festivals are open to the public and feature a polka band, traditional dances, hearty food and thirst-quenching beer. 2010 festival dates: May 16, July 18 and Sept. 19. www.touristclubsf.org.

More information

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