Wicky wrote:jkisha, this doesn't say anything about being foil backed... that's what I've been searching for. Does that matter? Sorry if I'm being a dumb ass, just don't want to buy the wrong thing and cook my wife.

Thanks for the heads up on duct tape... same for gorilla tape?

That's the right stuff.

The stuff without foil doesn't have the writing on it and it looks like styrofoam.

And don't forget to wash it with mild soap to remove the milling oil before you start taping.

We get 6" bidirectional filament tape for assembly and for making the preasembly hinges for the roof sections and wall sections and for the weather stripping of the door and door hinge. We also buy 2" bidirectional filament tape for other taping-- taping on the windows, and taping the floor to the walls. We use foil tape for pre-taping the edges and for repairing any dings in the foil of the panels.

Agreed.. After getting mine ready for year 2, if I had to do it over again I would do all edging with foil tape. I love that stuff. I use the 2.83" extreme weather variety made by Nashua.

For anyone debating between the H12 and H15, the extra height is SO worth it.. Can't wait to be back!

I am building a H15 for this year. Did you stagger the 2' wall panels or did you just put all of them towards the top? thinking in terms of stability.

Its a pretty awesome setup you have there!

Hondovious wrote:

jkisha wrote:

Wicky wrote:jkisha, this doesn't say anything about being foil backed... that's what I've been searching for. Does that matter? Sorry if I'm being a dumb ass, just don't want to buy the wrong thing and cook my wife.

Thanks for the heads up on duct tape... same for gorilla tape?

That's the right stuff.

The stuff without foil doesn't have the writing on it and it looks like styrofoam.

And don't forget to wash it with mild soap to remove the milling oil before you start taping.

We get 6" bidirectional filament tape for assembly and for making the preasembly hinges for the roof sections and wall sections and for the weather stripping of the door and door hinge. We also buy 2" bidirectional filament tape for other taping-- taping on the windows, and taping the floor to the walls. We use foil tape for pre-taping the edges and for repairing any dings in the foil of the panels.

Agreed.. After getting mine ready for year 2, if I had to do it over again I would do all edging with foil tape. I love that stuff. I use the 2.83" extreme weather variety made by Nashua.

For anyone debating between the H12 and H15, the extra height is SO worth it.. Can't wait to be back!

Not sure what they did, but on our 6' room we put all the 2' panels on top. We usually arrive early and often need to do the constructin with only two of us. So, after we have located the 4' walls and braced them from breezes. We then assemble the 2' section on the wall on the ground and attach the roof to thetwo foot walls. It is then easier for two people to raise that entire section and position it on the four foot walls. We tape the seem between the 4' and 2' sections both inside and out.

JKhttp://www.mudskippercafe.comWhen I was a kid I used to pray every night for a new bicycle.Then I realised that the Lord doesn't work that way so I stole one and asked Him to forgive me.

jkisha wrote:Not sure what they did, but on our 6' room we put all the 2' panels on top. We usually arrive early and often need to do the constructin with only two of us. So, after we have located the 4' walls and braced them from breezes. We then assemble the 2' section on the wall on the ground and attach the roof to thetwo foot walls. It is then easier for two people to raise that entire section and position it on the four foot walls. We tape the seem between the 4' and 2' sections both inside and out.

My walls are staggered, sort of. It isn't even staggering around due to an error when I pre-assembled the walls. I have 3 walls sections that are ready built, two hinged walls per section. So my transport package is 6'x8' instead of 4'x8'. It goes out on top of an art car on a trailer so I had the room to give. The top is done using the danger hinge method so I have 5 total pieces, not counting the door framing which I assemble on playa. All told it takes about an hour to put together as long as there are no breaks for wind.

I ordered the tape and picked up the boards yesterday, so I guess it's full steam ahead now then!! Nashua 2.83" extreme weather foil tape was less than 5 bucks a pop for 50 yds. Besides being better, it was also cheaper than using Gorilla tape.

Wicky wrote:I ordered the tape and picked up the boards yesterday, so I guess it's full steam ahead now then!! Nashua 2.83" extreme weather foil tape was less than 5 bucks a pop for 50 yds. Besides being better, it was also cheaper than using Gorilla tape.

Wow.. I paid $21 I think at HD. What a deal. Good job! Buy 5 if you go back and ship me some

My plans for transport... to add stiffness I've got a sheet of 1/2" CDX ply for the bottom, and a thinner piece of hardboard for the top just to protect the surface. I'll tightly wrap the whole package in a 16' x 20' tarp and ratchet it down to the roof rack (Ford Focus Wagon).

Does this sound ok? I'd like it to be lighter, but I guess half inch ply is going to be essential.

Wicky wrote:My plans for transport... to add stiffness I've got a sheet of 1/2" CDX ply for the bottom, and a thinner piece of hardboard for the top just to protect the surface. I'll tightly wrap the whole package in a 16' x 20' tarp and ratchet it down to the roof rack (Ford Focus Wagon).

Does this sound ok? I'd like it to be lighter, but I guess half inch ply is going to be essential.

Yeah, I wouldn't risk it without the plywood. The only way I would feel safe with just the foam strapped would be inside of a box trailer or something. Make sure your roof rails are rated for that weight. A yurt wrapped in plywood plus ratchet straps is around 150lb or more. It is a bit of a sail on top of the car depending on how much space you have between the yurt and the car roof, it would really suck for a big gust to tear the roof rails from the roof.

I posted something a few pages back about transporting the yurt. We rent a big truck for bm but at an earlier music festival this year we took the yurt on top of our land cruiser. We bought a big roll of shrink wrap and wrapped it several times long ways and short ways, with the roof pieces in the middle. Then we ratched it down on top of our cruiser. We put L shaped pieces of cardboard at the ratchet spots.

Worked like a charm and no heavy plywood to contend with. The roll of shrink wrap cost about 20 bucks for 3000 ft. We still have plenty left over. Be sure to bring it with you so you can wrap up to take it all back home.

Thanks guys!i think it will be important for me to be able to ship it in a 4x8 package so i think i am going to go with the 2' section on the top as well. Did you guys use 1" thick panel or something thicker? i am a little concerned that 1" panel might not be thick enough but then it could just be nerves

Hondovious wrote:

jkisha wrote:Not sure what they did, but on our 6' room we put all the 2' panels on top. We usually arrive early and often need to do the constructin with only two of us. So, after we have located the 4' walls and braced them from breezes. We then assemble the 2' section on the wall on the ground and attach the roof to thetwo foot walls. It is then easier for two people to raise that entire section and position it on the four foot walls. We tape the seem between the 4' and 2' sections both inside and out.

My walls are staggered, sort of. It isn't even staggering around due to an error when I pre-assembled the walls. I have 3 walls sections that are ready built, two hinged walls per section. So my transport package is 6'x8' instead of 4'x8'. It goes out on top of an art car on a trailer so I had the room to give. The top is done using the danger hinge method so I have 5 total pieces, not counting the door framing which I assemble on playa. All told it takes about an hour to put together as long as there are no breaks for wind.

I built an H15 the first time and I'm building a new one this year. If you're building one, alternate your 2' panels so you end up with three on top and three on the bottom, you want to avoid a single seam/weak point running around your yurt. I cut my door out of the bottom portion so the top piece is intact. I think I'm one of the few on here that goes thick, using 2" thick sheets. They're cooler and it's quieter. I also think the set up is stronger, I never had any movement or wind noise.

I've seen the posts about UV light breaking down the bi-fil tape. I plan on spraying mine with UV blocking paint. I'm going to use the foil tape and a hot knife to minimize light leaking in. I used a "regular" knife last time and it created a shit-ton of MOOP and the cuts were wavy.

How much of the sunlight/heat does that paint reflect vs. absorb?Foil tape reflects both very well.

Jar Jar Sith Lord.Odd. No bears in the dump. Oh well, lets go across the road & pick blueberries..... but don't harm the red dragon that frequents the area from time to time. He and I have an agreement.

wow! 2" thick panels. thats a lot of panel volume to haul up to playa now i am a little concerned, since i got 1" panels!

So anyone who has built H15 with 1" thick panel? anyone? anyone

big baby jesus wrote:I built an H15 the first time and I'm building a new one this year. If you're building one, alternate your 2' panels so you end up with three on top and three on the bottom, you want to avoid a single seam/weak point running around your yurt. I cut my door out of the bottom portion so the top piece is intact. I think I'm one of the few on here that goes thick, using 2" thick sheets. They're cooler and it's quieter. I also think the set up is stronger, I never had any movement or wind noise.

snabss wrote:wow! 2" thick panels. thats a lot of panel volume to haul up to playa now i am a little concerned, since i got 1" panels!

So anyone who has built H15 with 1" thick panel? anyone? anyone

big baby jesus wrote:I built an H15 the first time and I'm building a new one this year. If you're building one, alternate your 2' panels so you end up with three on top and three on the bottom, you want to avoid a single seam/weak point running around your yurt. I cut my door out of the bottom portion so the top piece is intact. I think I'm one of the few on here that goes thick, using 2" thick sheets. They're cooler and it's quieter. I also think the set up is stronger, I never had any movement or wind noise.

Yep. You can see pics of it on this page and the last couple, I think. 1" is fine. 2" would be nice, but damn that is a thick package. Heh, heh.

You should be fine building an H15 out of 1". I would just make sure you alternate the short pieces so you don't have a seam running around your yurt. I originally went with 2" thick panels for the R values. The 1" has a value of 6 and 2" has a value of 13.1. It's stronger and cooler, but also heavier, bulkier and more expensive. I tend to geek out on stuff and go overboard. Especially when I don't have the money to do so. That's when I'm at my worst... Anyhow, the 2" was amazing. So quiet and comfortable. The year before last, I would find people laying on my floor in the afternoon, cooling off.

lucky420 wrote:I posted something a few pages back about transporting the yurt. We rent a big truck for bm but at an earlier music festival this year we took the yurt on top of our land cruiser. We bought a big roll of shrink wrap and wrapped it several times long ways and short ways, with the roof pieces in the middle. Then we ratched it down on top of our cruiser. We put L shaped pieces of cardboard at the ratchet spots.

Worked like a charm and no heavy plywood to contend with. The roll of shrink wrap cost about 20 bucks for 3000 ft. We still have plenty left over. Be sure to bring it with you so you can wrap up to take it all back home.

Thanks for that. My car has a fixed roof rack that, pointlessly, only covers the back 2/3rds of the roof. So I can't lay the package completely flat. The shrink wrap sounds like a great idea though! Maybe I'll do that, and just add a couple of 2" x 4" studs for extra rigidity. Where did you get your shrink wrap? I'm seeing 20" x 1000' for around $21. Approx. how much of the wrap did you use per journey?

OK, after a marathon of reading this entire thread over the last few hours I still have a pair of questions that didn't get answered. (Or may have, I kinda blacked out during pages 15-18 ) Plan is for your standard classic H12 8' yurt with some simple pre-tape folding action. Test building it this weekend.

1st: Transportation. Lots of talk of strapping it to your car roof, but I usually bring a 5'x8' uhaul trailer, the largest size my outback can pull with any real weight in it. (Largest single axle model they offer) Can you fit the panels inside of this? I know enough to question if 8' is really 8' for these. I did take a 8' folding table in mine last year, but again, I didn't measure it so I don't know if the table is actually smaller then 8' by a little or the trailer was bigger (or a little of both). All I remember was it being a tight fit. I'd strap them to the roof but my Thule box is already up there with stuff in it as well so that's not really an option. Has anyone transported a hexy inside this trailer?

2nd: Air. I get that taping the hell out of the seams and taping the floor tarp to the walls is important to minimize dust, but with a basic setup (No windows, just a door) do I need to worry about CO2 buildup inside if I'm in there for long periods? May sound silly but my logic makes me wonder about being inside a completely sealed area for a long period of time while sleeping. I hope to have some simple windows or even an AC unit if money allows, but if none of that happens... Just wondering.

Fiver wrote:...2nd: Air. I get that taping the hell out of the seams and taping the floor tarp to the walls is important to minimize dust, but with a basic setup (No windows, just a door) do I need to worry about CO2 buildup inside if I'm in there for long periods? May sound silly but my logic makes me wonder about being inside a completely sealed area for a long period of time while sleeping. I hope to have some simple windows or even an AC unit if money allows, but if none of that happens... Just wondering.

Thanks in advance.

I can't speak as an expert, but I put vents on each side of my H15. I used two A/C filters per side with a shroud built over them so the wind/sand never blew directly at it. It was also minimized the light. They worked great and when it was windy, I could feel the air moving

big baby jesus wrote:I can't speak as an expert, but I put vents on each side of my H15. I used two A/C filters per side with a shroud built over them so the wind/sand never blew directly at it. It was also minimized the light. They worked great and when it was windy, I could feel the air moving

Thanks for the response... But, yes, I'm well aware of what works for windows. What I'm asking here is what about NO windows. Is it safe for periods of time when completely sealed.

Where did you get your shrink wrap? I'm seeing 20" x 1000' for around $21. Approx. how much of the wrap did you use per journey?

I got it at a packaging supply store. Maybe it was a 1000 ft for $21. We wrapped it several times long ways and short ways both going to the event and then coming home. I still have a huge amount left...

but with a basic setup (No windows, just a door) do I need to worry about CO2 buildup inside if I'm in there for long periods? May sound silly but my logic makes me wonder about being inside a completely sealed area for a long ...

I don't think you'll have a problem and if you're feeling woozy you can crack the door a bit

big baby jesus wrote:I can't speak as an expert, but I put vents on each side of my H15. I used two A/C filters per side with a shroud built over them so the wind/sand never blew directly at it. It was also minimized the light. They worked great and when it was windy, I could feel the air moving

Thanks for the response... But, yes, I'm well aware of what works for windows. What I'm asking here is what about NO windows. Is it safe for periods of time when completely sealed.

Vents are different from windows, they allow for an air exchange and that's all. I haven't seen anyone put windows in a hexy, but it shouldn't negate all of the benefits. If you're planning to completely seal off your yurt, then it's just a function of size. If you're building a sealed off H2, I think you'll have issues. If you're building a Quad dome for one person, you should be ok.

OK, I should have windows (vents, whatever) so I'll be ok there. I think it's safe to assume any smallish space if truly sealed isn't safe to be in for any period of time. C02 buildup makes you sleepy, and since I would be sleeping in there already, there's no way to know if you are going to die from it. When you are asleep you don't notice if you are "woozy".

Anyway, bi-filimant tape was delivered today so off to HD to buy the pieces for walls, roof, etc. Problem is when I got there was thickness. I'd been eyeing the boards over the summer as I was in or out for various other reasons, and turns out what I thought I needed is 1.5" vs the 1" that all the guides recommend. There were stacks and stacks of the 1" all looking pristine and lovely, but the 1.5 inchers were all beat to hell, rough edges, scrapped, not pretty at all. I pulled a few off the wall and I must say, regardless of the whole added insulation argument, (which I get isn't that big of a deal really) the 1.5" just seemed SO much more robust and sturdy. The 1" just seemed flimsy and questionable.

So for anyone out there who's done one in both 1" and 1.5".. Does the 1.5" really build easier as it looks way tougher? It's only about $4-6 difference per board if I recall.It's not a money issue, it's a sturdiness issue.Again, thanks in advance.

Fiver wrote:OK, I should have windows (vents, whatever) so I'll be ok there. I think it's safe to assume any smallish space if truly sealed isn't safe to be in for any period of time. C02 buildup makes you sleepy, and since I would be sleeping in there already, there's no way to know if you are going to die from it. When you are asleep you don't notice if you are "woozy".

Swamp-cooler cycles the air with fresh cool moist air.

Jar Jar Sith Lord.Odd. No bears in the dump. Oh well, lets go across the road & pick blueberries..... but don't harm the red dragon that frequents the area from time to time. He and I have an agreement.

Fiver wrote:OK, I should have windows (vents, whatever) so I'll be ok there. I think it's safe to assume any smallish space if truly sealed isn't safe to be in for any period of time. C02 buildup makes you sleepy, and since I would be sleeping in there already, there's no way to know if you are going to die from it. When you are asleep you don't notice if you are "woozy".

So for anyone out there who's done one in both 1" and 1.5".. Does the 1.5" really build easier as it looks way tougher? It's only about $4-6 difference per board if I recall.It's not a money issue, it's a sturdiness issue.Again, thanks in advance.

You need some sort of ventilation, there are a ton of options and you'll figure out what works for you. I wanted something that would keep things dark and cool during the day, so that's why I did what I did. Don't worry about making it air-tight or dust free, you'll still be more comfortable than tenters.

I've seen posts on here where people are concerned about the cost of a sheet of R-max. FYI, their western distribution hub is in Fernly, about 30 minutes outside of Reno. They're selling 1" seconds for $5. They only have 1" and 3" ($14 a sheet) right now, but it might help. They get different sizes in all the time, so check in weekly. The 3" and 4" are great for cooler boxes, they have R-values of 20-28.