I mentioned in another thread that I've had good luck on troublesome fasteners by chucking the right bit (some homemade) into my Porter Cable 20 position clutch drill. I soak the culprit with Liquid Wrench and set the drill to a low setting like 2 or 3. Seems the high freq. hammer effect works like a super safe mini impact driver. Usually...it's whallaa...fastener comes out (or off) .... hope this helps in the future.

I finally got my broken bolt out of the nut that is attached to the rear fender, but with considerable damage to the nut itself. Still, the nut will hold the new bolt at the prescribed torque, so that will have to do until I can get a new nut attached in its place.

My work left a little damage to the paint, but just around the bolt hole in a place that is well hidden, so except for my confession here no one would have ever known. Maybe I can use the Men In Black flashy thingy and you will all forget this little incident.

I was prepared to take Darcy's advice with the spark erosion thing. I read up on it - interesting stuff. Thanks DB!

On 2007-03-23 10:51, Normandy wrote:
Kingbear, put some clear nail polish remover or something on the damaged paint area to keep water from rusting it out behind the badge.

Good call, Normandy! I'm using some black touch-up paint to protect the exposed metal.

If you guys look closely you'll find that some of the factory installed components might have lost a little paint here and there during assembly. Buy a little bottle of touch-up paint and tidy up those little scratches before they turn to rust.

Normandy...You read my mind...Don't read any further...it can get scary in there. Anyhow, King- Some clear nail polish is the key...not to heavy just a coat or two to help the broken paint from flaking and to prevent rusting behind the badge.

When drilling out a broken bolt, use a reverse drill bit (left handed??) & a reversing drill. A lot of the times the drill bit will unscrew the bolt. If not you still get a hole for the screw extractor.

Does anyone make a stainless steel replacement bolt kit for the Triumph? On the Suzuki SV forum, the absolute first thing everyone does is replace all the ***** stock screws, bolts, etc, with stainless steel parts, thereby eliminating the whole issue.

I mentioned in another thread that I've had good luck on troublesome fasteners by chucking the right bit (some homemade) into my Porter Cable 20 position clutch drill. I soak the culprit with Liquid Wrench and set the drill to a low setting like 2 or 3. Seems the high freq. hammer effect works like a super safe mini impact driver. Usually...it's whallaa...fastener comes out (or off) .... hope this helps in the future.

Just resurrecting this old thread to shout out to BILLYSIM for this tip. 2 out of my 4 badge screws came out without trouble. #3 came out, with trouble, and an overnight penetrating oil soak. #4 came out, with a great deal of trouble, after turning the tank on side, five nights of liberal penetrating oil soak, a few sharp taps with a hammer on the torx, and finally my Dewalt driver on progressively higher torque settings.

I honestly didn't think it was going to go on this day either, but poof there it was, and I was surely relieved to see the rest of the screw coming out with the head. Patience paid off. I could absolutely tell it was going to end badly otherwise.

For reference, this is an 01 tank with 100,000km on it. I am sure any little bit of rain or wash water that makes it in behind the badge rubber finds its way into the mounting holes, and then you find yourself here.

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