Before anything else, I must be honest and say that I wrongly ordered the grey colour version, but after using it for some days, I also must say that I love this colour and anodizing and I think it will handle the beats in the pockets better than a(nother) black flashlight!!

This said, the RovyVon E300S is a flashlight with great build quality. It is nice to the touch, being easily handled as a rectangle light.

It’s shape is not very usual (it also reminds CRX Stratis Lumina from 2017 ), and its lines stand out as elegant but also as “sportive”! It has some grooves on the sides that will allow to place the pocket clip correctly. On the back, some outgoing lines will also help to have a better grip on the flashlight, and to fix the pocket clip on the jeans or other place we want to attach it to!

About handling the E300S, one must take into account the following: it has 2 e-switches with different interfaces. There is 1 switch located in the right of the flashlight, and another switch located in the top. On the left side we find the USB Port.

Using the flashlight in the right hand, we can easily access the “side switch” with the thumb and the “top switch” with the index finger.

Using the flashlight in the left hand, we access the “side switch” with the middle finger and the “top switch” with the index finger.

This flashlight has a stainless steel bezel, with the following engraving (in black): Angel Eyes ___ E300S ___ 2000 Lumens ___+IMR 2200mAh+ . The bezel has 4 grooves that may be handy to unscrew the bezel to modify or repair it!

Inside, below a triple TIR optic, it uses 3 x XP-G3 S5 (Cool White) emitters that produce a very tint shifted beam, as the XP-G3 normally produce }P. However, I don’t know if it is due to that shift in the beam, or due to the way the LEDs are placed inside (see zeroair review), or due to the optic, this flashlight produces a beam with flood but also a marked hotspot and not much “lens artifacts”. It is curious, but it is also nice, and minimizes the already great impact of the tint shifted beam.

I wonder how the stock Nichia 219C will look like, but my guess is that it will look beautiful

BTW, this said, my flashlight is a strong candidate to a LED replacement

On the bottom, there is a hole for a lanyard or a clasp. Although the bottom part stands out of the rectangle, it is flat allowing to use the light in a “tailstand” position! On the contrary, its is not very feasible or its almost impossible to “headstand” due to the switch protruding on the top of the flashlight.

About the dimension and weight of the RovyVon E300S, althought it is not a “thin” or “small” flashlight, I actually find it very ergonomic for my hands (at least) and for my pockets!
Also, although it is not “lightweight”, I still don’t find it very heavy, comparing with the flashlights I’ve been using as EDC lights.

Just looking at this, and as a overall view, this is a nice flashlight pack for me and I guess that being versatile in its use and shape, I will be carrying these “Angel Eyes” a lot in time to come

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ACCESSORIES
So, after the flashlight, lets take a quick look at its accessories

As I mentioned above, there was a 1m reflective paracord rope included in the package, to make a lanyard

There was also a metal pocket clip, that is quite sturdy and strong! It is quite hard to remove it from the jeans, so it gives good reliability, as it won’t fall easily. On the other hand, in case of emergency, removing it may be a PITA as one needs some pulling and strength! Overall is very good and it will serve in multiple occasions. I didn’t try it, but I guess it can be easily used in a cap, as a headlamp ! Will try it later

One good thing about the flashlight + clip combination is that it can be used in several ways and be adjusted according to one’s needs. I tried the clip with the tip towards the top as it will be easier to draw and use the light quickly (putting the index on the top switch as I draw it from the pocket, using a lanyard or not).

Along with the paracord rope and the pocket clip, we also find a micro USB cable and a spare USB post cover, similar to the RovyVon AX series !!

Last but not least, the always informative, explicative with graphics and well written in Engligsh User Manual (click for bigger photo) and the RovyVon Warranty Card.

It must be said that there is a 2 year international warranty for this flashlight!!!

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USER INTERFACE, OUTPUT, RUNTIME & CHARGING

Lets start by the USER INTERFACE of this flashlight!
As mentioned above there are 2 e-switches: side and top! SO:

SIDE Switch – MODE 1
- From OFF, press & hold 0.5s to turn the light ON. It will turn ON in the Moonlight Level.
- After being in Moonlight, a single click will advance from: Moonlight > Low > Medium > High > Turbo > Low > Medium…
- On any mode, press & hold 0.3s to turn the light OFF.
- If the light was ON for more that 180seconds, a single click will turn the light OFF.

NOTE: Moonlight mode will be only accessible from OFF

—- /// —- /// —-

SIDE Switch – MODE 2
- From OFF, double click to turn the light ON at 250 lumens.
- After the light is ON, press & hold to enter the “infinite variable brightness adjustment”. It will start ramping UP until the max output of 2000 lumens, then will go down until 60 lumens and from here to 2000 lumens again.
- When in this “adjustment”, if the switch is released the brightness level will be locked. Pressing & holding again will restart the adjustment, following the ramp up or down that was being done before the switch release.
- A single click from ON will turn the flashlight OFF

NOTE: when using this “infinite variable brightness adjustment” for more than 3 minutes before turning it OFF, it will memorize the last used level and also the ramping direction.

—- /// —- /// —-

SIDE Switch – MODE 3
- From OFF, triple click to turn the light ON in Medium mode (450 lumens)
- A single click from ON will turn the flashlight OFF

—- /// —- /// —-

TOP Switch
- From OFF, press & hold for momentary TURBO. Releasing the switch will turn the light OFF.
- From OFF, double click turns ON Strobe. When on Strobe, a single click passes to SOS, and another single click passes to Beacon+. Another single click passes to Strobe again.
- From ON, press & hold 0.3s turns the light OFF

NOTE: The Top Switch can also be used to turn the light OFF when using the mode activated by the Side Switch

IMPORTANT Trick (at least for me):
As seen, to access turbo directly there is only 1 way (through the Top Switch, pressing and holding , for momentary ON).
BUT, using the SIDE Switch – MODE 2 for more than 3 minutes and leaving the flashlight on maximum before turning it OFF will also let us access directly to Turbo in “full” mode

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Now, lets see the OUTPUTs of the RovyVon E300s!

Level

Moonlight

Low

Medium

High

Turbo

Strobe

Output

5 lm

60 lm

500 lm

1000 lm

2000 lm

2000 lm

Runtime

20 days

1080 min

200 min

360 min

210 min

/

NOTE 1: the Moonlight level is lower than 5 lumens, much lower! Actually, it seems lower than the Moonlight mode of the Olight S1R Baton I; so if the specs of the Olight S1R Baton are correct, I believe the ML level will be closer to 0.5 lumens instead I find it awesome
About the other levels, they seem to be more accurate

NOTE 2: Being used in Turbo level, the light will stepdown to 350 lumens within 2 minutes or if the internal temperature is above 80 degrees, depending on what is reached first.

NOTE 3: Being used in High level, the light will stepdown to 250 lumens within 2 minutes or if the internal temperature is above 80 degrees, depending on what is reached first.

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And finally, the CHARGING!
First it must be said that this flashlight has “charging protection”, both for over-charger and discharge!!
According to RovyVon specs, the flashlight takes 90 minutes to be fully charged. Charging current is 2.2Ah and charging voltage is 5V.

When the battery is Low, it will turn RED,
When charging the indicator above the USB port will “breathe” Blue and Red.
When the charge is complete, the indicator will be only Blue.

And now…there shall be light Time for some beamshots!!
Above the LED! Please note the stripes in all levels except Moonlight. None are visible naked eye, only with the cellphone camera

Taking a look at the beam pattern over a non-white surface:

I didn’t do many “tint comparison” photos as we all are aware of what a Cool White XP-G3 is capable of. So I only tried against my current EDC light:
RovyVon E300S – XP-G3 S5 (left) >>>>> On The Road M1 w/ triple XP-G2 S4-3C (5500K) (Right)

And now some distance beamshots!
But before I have to say that: a) Moonlight is really nice for dark places when you need a low, not disturbing light; b) Low is enough to light your path at 2m in a walk; c) Medium will light more than your path if you need some more safety while walking, and I would say that it will reach max 20m range; d) High mode will illuminate a wide range of terrain, reaching from 30m to at least 40m well enough; e) Turbo can be used for longer range illumination, working in perfect condition at 60m, even if it reaches more than that with no problem (about 100m in straight line). However, turbo stepdown will not be good for a long distance for a long time

1.5m – 2.5m

3m – 5m

3m – 12m

5m – 20m

14m – 16m

These are some distance beamshots only in TURBO, in almost pitch black night, most of them!

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GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS

What I liked:
1) Overall construction and shape. Being an unusual flashlight, I liked the solid construction offered by RovyVon. This is a recently emerged flashlight brand/manufacturer, but their lights are on the right way, combining innovation and quality at good prices (and discounts ) . The anodizing is great and resistant enough to be mixed up with other things in a pocket, and the overall shape is – for me – ergonomic enough to use this light in different situations.

2) The User Interface Options. Far from having my “dream” User Interface, the RovyVon E300S has a peculiar way to work with different options for the user. Having direct access to Moonlight, Turbo, “Low”, “Medium” and Strobe are reasons enough to consider this flashlight due to its versatility!

3) Regular Levels Spacing. In my opinion, the ML>L>M>H>T are very well spaced for different types of use when using the “Mode 1” through the side switch! I’ve tried them several times during the last days, specially in outdoor dark environment, and I’m happy with it. Actually, it remind me of Wuben levels’ spacing, which is quite good in the flashlights I have.

4) Accessories. Well, they are not that much or that “special”, it is nice to get a nice package with the RX10 Organized, and all the stuff RovyVon sends with this flashlight, in particular the tough clip!

5) Clicking precision. Yeah, clicking on the top and side switch is quite precise and there are no accidental activations of modes or levels! I emphasize that as a positive aspect and that was already noted in the Aurora A2 & A5R flashlights! When we click, it works the way it is supposed to

—- /// —- /// —-

What I would improve:
1) The LEDs. Well, I got the XP-G3 version of this flashlight and a Nichia 219C version is now on sale, so I guess RovyVon heard what the users/community said and started by improving this BIG aspect that is a not so positive point in this flashlight. I’m glad they did that! I wish they had done it earlier

2) The Infinite Variable Brightness Adjustment. Although this is a “nice” thing to have, I would turn it into a real ramping FW, with the possibility to ramp up and down without having to go to the top first to reach the bottom later. A ramping like the one on Emisar D4 would be better IMO. Also, the fact that it doesn’t reach Moonlight level is an aspect I would change. Besides this, I like the fact that it can memorize a level after some time of use (3 minutes), but I wish it was a lower limit, like 1 minute or even less.

3) Direct access to Turbo. I know that we can have direct access to Turbo trough the Top Switch, and through the trick I mentioned above on the User Interface part. However, I wish there was a direct access to Turbo from while using the “regular modes”. Lets say we where in Medium: a double click could jump to Turbo and a single click return to Medium! Would be nice in my opinion!

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This said, there are no real negative aspects in this flashlight (aside from the LEDs and the tin shift produced). I’m really liking it and I will be carrying it for a while! And being flat and not round will avoid a big bulk in the pockets You know what I mean

I want to thank Kai, from RovyVon, that helped on the GrouBuy process answering questions always with good communication and interest! Thanks for your work and I guess the community will be looking from more of your flashlights

Also, thanks to all the members that participated. Sorry if I am not the most experienced host for GBs, though

And now feel free to ask questions or comment, folks!
Thanks for reading

No problem something just didn’t seem right about the numbers. Does it step down on the 500 lumen level?

So, today I tried a little test with my luxmeter, with the E300s on Medium Mode (500 lumens).
These are only numbers to “measure” the eventual decrease of output, please don’t take them as scientific measurements.

Some seconds after starting: 375 lux
After 7 Minutes: 353 lux

So, there is no major stepdown on Medium mode.
Also, the surface and the optic/LEDs area was about 32ºC !

Just notice the E300s fits the On The Road pouch I believe it also fits Convoy holsters (the ones for the 18350 versions), but can’t confirm at the moment!
Anyway, it is a good and not very bulky way to protect if from scratches or other hits

EDIT (later this day ) :Convoy holsters work perfectly with this light And still have more room to a second light, in the side!!

As I mentioned on my review, this Rovyvon E300s flashlight was a good candidate for an LED change, due to the tint shift on this light produced by the XP-G3 Leds.

Last friday I received some XP-L Leds ordered from kiriba-ru, and performed that modification.

NOTE: this is not a easy mod, specially for people that have not so good skills – as myself – on soldering and opening/closing flashlights. The E300s is somehow complex to open and close without major damages and for some seconds I thought I would lose the most expensive light I have. So, careful if you decide to got for a mod!

There is a rubber “cover” all around the top of the flashlight, to protect from water infiltration. It was hard to get this out and almost worse to get it back to place again!

To access the “pill” and leds, unscrew the top screws on the outside, remove the cover, and unscrew the 3 screws holding the “board”.
To remove the “pill, we have to unscrew the bezel from teh outside. Due to the o-rings and the friction caused by them and the optics, it is very likely that the optics and leds will turn inside. It led my black wire to de-solder so I have to put new wires (22AWG). Thick wires will difficult our life when putting things back together to assemble the light again.
I also broke the black wire coming from the battery while trying to put it together, but it was an easy fix!

The only thing I couldn’t put back together was a sealing ring that was placed between the “pill” and the host (below the bezel). So I improvised and put between the bezel and the host, from the outside. It will work

About the optic, as you know the XP-L HD leds are taller than XP-G3 and XP-G2, so I had to modify the optic according to this suggestion . It was not difficult but it was hard to make it fit evenly (it can be noticed in the photo). Still, it doesn’t produce artifacts on the beam!

Las but not least, the beam. Before (XP-G3 CW ) >>>>> After (XP-L V6 3D). During the weekend I will try to take some outdoor beamshots to see the range it will throw!

I can’t portray how “white” it is now, due to the effects produced by the cellphone and the storage loss of quality! Still, it doesn’t have any shift and despite the issues I had modding the optics, it has no artifacts! It is a wider beam now, much floodier than it was, but the XP-L Leds would produce that any way, more than the XP-G3!
I am happy now with this new light colour

2 – take the back cover (complicated but it didn’t damage much the sealing rubber that covers that part)

3 – trying to unscrew the bezel out, while holding the brass pill, without damaging the wires (it didn’t happen, as one got cut…)

4 – after the bezel was unscrewed:
a) take the pill out
b) unsolder the remaining wire from the emitter plate
c) unsolder both wires from the “driver”
d) replace the original LEDs for the new ones (with “helping hands”, solder iron, some soldering flux and a swab with alcohol to clean the mess )

5 – after the new LEDs were in place:
a) solder the wires emitter plate (I rather not call it MCPCB as it is not…)
b) get the new – thicker – wires through the small pill holes, without damaging them
c) put some thermal paste between the plate and the pill
d) cut some Glow-In-The-Dark tape to put inside the pill
e) set the plate in place and…put the optics above the LEDS

6 – After I realized the optic has small diameter holes…I had to pick the dremmel with a round file head and slightly open the optics holes to make the LEDs fit more or less fine. Was not very difficult, but took some time to make them look “similar” (I only noticed that when I switched the light ON)

7 – With the optics and the emitters in place:
a) solder the wires to the “driver”
b) try to screw the bezel in without twisting and breaking the wires (as the pill rotates at the same time! This was one of the hardest parts, as the whole driver+pill had to be lifted up several times due to the friction in the rotation process! This was when a wire from the battery broke/unsoldered…)
c) put the back cover in place again, without severing the sealing rubber
d) put the head screws back in place!

Ahh, and during the process, I was always checking if when pressed the light would get ON I didn’t want to go through the dismantling process again

Sorry for not having documented it…it took me HOURS from begining to the end, with some drawbacks and much learning

Hope this written explanation may work as a documentary, somehow
Thanks for reading

After some recent lights purchases, I don’t need another EDC… but the E300S has been tugging at me. I like this form factor, especially the concept of being able to clip this to a shirt pocket and have forward facing light. I’m encouraged now that it comes with a Nichia 219C option. I like this emitter on the A8.

After the XM-L emitter swap, your beam tint became noticeably warmer. I think it’s worth the trade-off on reduced output, given the form factor of the light. Btw, I’m guessing you don’t see PWM, as I’d asked someone else about that—they could detect it on the A8 but not on the E300S.

After some recent lights purchases, I don’t need another EDC… but the E300S has been tugging at me. I like this form factor, especially the concept of being able to clip this to a shirt pocket and have forward facing light. I’m encouraged now that it comes with a Nichia 219C option. I like this emitter on the A8.

After the XM-L emitter swap, your beam tint became noticeably warmer. I think it’s worth the trade-off on reduced output, given the form factor of the light. Btw, I’m guessing you don’t see PWM, as I’d asked someone else about that—they could detect it on the A8 but not on the E300S.

Thanks xevious
This is a very nice light! I guess that the unusual shape of it has a different appeal
The UI is also quite good (for my taste and despite some things I would change) and it is very well built!

I also think the beam improved (specially the tint and the absence of shift) despite it lost some throw capability! I don’t mind that
BTW, it was XP-L , not XML Those would not fit at all under that optic

Nop, no PWM. Here’s a gif from post #1 juts above the LEDs:
So it doesn’t do what the A8s do ! Fortunately

Gebe wrote:

Ya, nice work. Even though I’m a CW fan and going by your photos, your mod made for a nicer beam.

Thanks Gebe! Hum, I guess that if it was a different type of CW emitter, like XPL-HI or some XP-G2, I wouldn’t change it. But XP-G3 produces that yellowish/greenish shift that annoys! So I guess this is a better one too