Sugarcane Raw Bar Grill Restaurant Review

: Like its parent SUSHISAMBA restaurants, Sugarcanes exist in several other cities. But those are Sugarcane Lounges. As this place's name difference signals---and its three separate kitchens (a Japanese robata grill; a raw bar running the global gamut---sushi, ceviches, crudos, tartares; and an international tapas kitchen) emphasize---this Sugarcane is serious about its food. Frankly, we have yet to hit a clunker item on chef Timon Balloo's menu, which is mostly small plates, and mostly inspired by Japan and Spain (with side trips to Korea, Italy, and several other countries). Main must-haves include steamed pork buns, the meat's unctuousness balanced by a uniquely bracing apple kimchi (tip: during happy hour, these are $3 cheaper); bone marrow, a large portion of the rich comfort food; poached egg-topped, sweet-glazed pork belly-shiitake ramen noodles that couldn't be farther from your dorm room staple; and two charcoal-grilled items: tender textured, boldly flavored beef short ribs, and Florida sweet corn with pimenton butter and manchego, an ultimate upgrade of Mexican-style corn on the cob. Both wine and beers lists are well-rounded mixes of boutique bottles and quality classics, but liquors are even more tempting; bartenders here know how to make serious traditional martinis as well as tropical drinks.