CRITIC'S PICK: Though perhaps not what traditionalists will seek in a bowl of tantanmen, Dozo’s take on the Sichuan-inspired ramen style is more sweet than spicy, topped with a delectable mix of tender eggplant and stir fried pork. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: Though perhaps not what traditionalists will seek in a bowl of tantanmen, Dozo’s take on the Sichuan-inspired ramen style is more sweet than spicy, topped with a delectable mix of tender eggplant and stir fried pork.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: Dozo is an overlooked destination for ramen where the broth and noodles are solid, but the toppings are excellent. Its shio broth is simple and flavorful, but Dozo slings a killer cured egg and some excellent chashu that’s tender, sweet and a little smoky. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: Dozo is an overlooked destination for ramen where the broth and noodles are solid, but the toppings are excellent. Its shio broth is simple and flavorful, but Dozo slings a killer cured egg and some excellent chashu that’s tender, sweet and a little smoky.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: Decent miso ramen is easy. A dab of salty, umami-rich paste can do wonders for an underpowered broth (the safest order is always the miso). But great miso ramen is a lot harder to find, and Hana’s miso goes above and beyond, smooth and mellow, just a little sweet, and perfectly balanced. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: Decent miso ramen is easy. A dab of salty, umami-rich paste can do wonders for an underpowered broth (the safest order is always the miso). But great miso ramen is a lot harder to find, and Hana’s miso goes above and beyond, smooth and mellow, just a little sweet, and perfectly balanced.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: The shio ramen at Hana is a thing of simple beauty, a clean and silky pork broth with a pleasant salinity and a heady whiff of sweet, smoky katsuobushi. Quality noodles with a great bite are topped with slices of roasted pork with a fresh, meaty flavor, scallions, menma, a bit of wakame and a slice of naruto. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: The shio ramen at Hana is a thing of simple beauty, a clean and silky pork broth with a pleasant salinity and a heady whiff of sweet, smoky katsuobushi. Quality noodles with a great bite are topped with slices of roasted pork with a fresh, meaty flavor, scallions, menma, a bit of wakame and a slice of naruto.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: The bad news is that ramen nights at Posh are no more. The good news? Josh Hebert now has a full-time ramen shop. All of his offerings are excellent, but the shoyu is the oft-overlooked star of the menu. Excellent noodles swim in a clear broth that’s dark, silky and laden with briny katsuobushi, and his cured egg is first rate. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: The bad news is that ramen nights at Posh are no more. The good news? Josh Hebert now has a full-time ramen shop. All of his offerings are excellent, but the shoyu is the oft-overlooked star of the menu. Excellent noodles swim in a clear broth that’s dark, silky and laden with briny katsuobushi, and his cured egg is first rate.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: Hebert’s signature bowl is the only goma (sesame) ramen I’ve found in town, balanced and rich with a little bit of nutty sweetness. The chashu is excellent, and the bowl boasts a pile of vegetables, including bok choy and fresh peppers, both Fresno and shishito. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: Hebert’s signature bowl is the only goma (sesame) ramen I’ve found in town, balanced and rich with a little bit of nutty sweetness. The chashu is excellent, and the bowl boasts a pile of vegetables, including bok choy and fresh peppers, both Fresno and shishito.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: Of the seafood ramen I sampled, this had the best flavor, a careful balance of chile and shellfish flavors laden with tender shrimp, calamari and bay scallops, plus a big pile of shaved katsuobushi for an additional boost. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: Of the seafood ramen I sampled, this had the best flavor, a careful balance of chile and shellfish flavors laden with tender shrimp, calamari and bay scallops, plus a big pile of shaved katsuobushi for an additional boost.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: I wish I could put Tampopo’s noodles in Nishikawa’s broth, which is creamy and rich without going over the top, and has a perfectly clean scent. The house-made Hakata-style noodles are too soft, but the slice of pork chashu is a luscious little number, and the egg is delightful, provided you request it soft. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: I wish I could put Tampopo’s noodles in Nishikawa’s broth, which is creamy and rich without going over the top, and has a perfectly clean scent. The house-made Hakata-style noodles are too soft, but the slice of pork chashu is a luscious little number, and the egg is delightful, provided you request it soft.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK:Noodle Bar (formerly Otakumen) has made incredible strides since opening in 2016. The ramen itserved for its first six monthswas almost inedible, but steady improvement has slowlyturned its offerings into some of the city's best. One standout is the Sapporo ramen — again, not for purists. But buttery and smooth, flavored with garlic and white miso and piled with bean sprouts, it’s a gently intoxicating little bowl. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK:Noodle Bar (formerly Otakumen) has made incredible strides since opening in 2016. The ramen itserved for its first six monthswas almost inedible, but steady improvement has slowlyturned its offerings into some of the city's best. One standout is the Sapporo ramen — again, not for purists. But buttery and smooth, flavored with garlic and white miso and piled with bean sprouts, it’s a gently intoxicating little bowl.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: Noodle Bar's Sonoran-inspired La Machaca ramen, sadly, has come off the menu, but in its place is another compelling little number. Featuring skinny noodles with serious bite and fabulous slivers of chashu, this pork-based broth sports a lightening, citrusy lilt and beautiful balance. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: Noodle Bar's Sonoran-inspired La Machaca ramen, sadly, has come off the menu, but in its place is another compelling little number. Featuring skinny noodles with serious bite and fabulous slivers of chashu, this pork-based broth sports a lightening, citrusy lilt and beautiful balance.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: Tampopo has a machine to make its noodles in-house, a thin, straight Hakata-style with excellent bite. The default broth is on the light side, but it’s milky and flavorful. The “rich soup” option is stronger, adding some fat and a little funk (controlling the smell of tonkotsu broth can be difficult). Rolled, sliced pork belly is tender and flavorful with heavy seasoning and a little sear, and the egg boasts a nice semi-liquid core. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: Tampopo has a machine to make its noodles in-house, a thin, straight Hakata-style with excellent bite. The default broth is on the light side, but it’s milky and flavorful. The “rich soup” option is stronger, adding some fat and a little funk (controlling the smell of tonkotsu broth can be difficult). Rolled, sliced pork belly is tender and flavorful with heavy seasoning and a little sear, and the egg boasts a nice semi-liquid core.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: Anything labeled “ultra spicy” is almost invariably an inedible chile bomb. Not so with Tampopo’s ultra-spicy ramen. This version boasts an unconventional mix of heat sources — dried chiles, chile oil and some Korean gochujang, I’ll wager — into a powerful bowl that cuts the fire with a fair amount of sourness and accents it with a healthy shot of garlic and slivers of raw onion. Bonus for chile freaks: chile powder is worked into the noodles as well. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: Anything labeled “ultra spicy” is almost invariably an inedible chile bomb. Not so with Tampopo’s ultra-spicy ramen. This version boasts an unconventional mix of heat sources — dried chiles, chile oil and some Korean gochujang, I’ll wager — into a powerful bowl that cuts the fire with a fair amount of sourness and accents it with a healthy shot of garlic and slivers of raw onion. Bonus for chile freaks: chile powder is worked into the noodles as well.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: This quaint Japanese mom-and-pop joint has been around forever, and though its other bowls aren’t as strong, the curry ramen is a delight. Using less of a broth and more of a thick curry sauce, it’s buttery and sweet as well as spicy, studded with bits of carrot and potato. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: This quaint Japanese mom-and-pop joint has been around forever, and though its other bowls aren’t as strong, the curry ramen is a delight. Using less of a broth and more of a thick curry sauce, it’s buttery and sweet as well as spicy, studded with bits of carrot and potato.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: Jared Lupin has resurrected Umami at Shady Park, and his strongest bowl is still his paitan broth, made with a mix of pork and chicken bones to cradle very good noodles. Umami is a build-your-own-bowl concept, featuring a checklist of meats, vegetables and seasoning pastes you can mix and match as you please. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: Jared Lupin has resurrected Umami at Shady Park, and his strongest bowl is still his paitan broth, made with a mix of pork and chicken bones to cradle very good noodles. Umami is a build-your-own-bowl concept, featuring a checklist of meats, vegetables and seasoning pastes you can mix and match as you please.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: The vegan ramen at WC+D has a full, umami-heavy flavor with a pleasant sweetness. Noodles can err toward a touch gummy, but chunks of seasoned, roasted jackfruit are mighty satisfying, and pair well with an abundance of fresh vegetables.Once a weekend special, the dish is now a regular offering. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: The vegan ramen at WC+D has a full, umami-heavy flavor with a pleasant sweetness. Noodles can err toward a touch gummy, but chunks of seasoned, roasted jackfruit are mighty satisfying, and pair well with an abundance of fresh vegetables.Once a weekend special, the dish is now a regular offering.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: The tonkotsu and shoyu at Obon do the job, but better is the signature Obon ramen, tonkotsu broth with a dash of soy and obsidian-hued bubbles of rich black garlic oil. A little shredded chile, barely set egg and two kinds of pork round out a pretty solid bowl. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: The tonkotsu and shoyu at Obon do the job, but better is the signature Obon ramen, tonkotsu broth with a dash of soy and obsidian-hued bubbles of rich black garlic oil. A little shredded chile, barely set egg and two kinds of pork round out a pretty solid bowl.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

CRITIC'S PICK: The menu may claim it contains "nothing with a soul," but the bowl itself has plenty. An exercise in building umami without meat, this sultry number uses seaweed and mushrooms to great effect, making for a well-balanced broth that's just as rich as its meatified counterparts. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

CRITIC'S PICK: The menu may claim it contains "nothing with a soul," but the bowl itself has plenty. An exercise in building umami without meat, this sultry number uses seaweed and mushrooms to great effect, making for a well-balanced broth that's just as rich as its meatified counterparts.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The pork ramen at The Clever Koi could use a tare with a little more bite and menma would be a better match than plain bamboo, but it's a solid bowl with a rich and luscious broth and some seductively tender and lightly crisped pork belly. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

The pork ramen at The Clever Koi could use a tare with a little more bite and menma would be a better match than plain bamboo, but it's a solid bowl with a rich and luscious broth and some seductively tender and lightly crisped pork belly.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Sushi Style's champon ramen isn't the Japanese style from Nagasaki, but rather a fiery version loaded with seafood and chiles. It's more Korean than Japanese, but that doesn't make it any less tasty. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

Sushi Style's champon ramen isn't the Japanese style from Nagasaki, but rather a fiery version loaded with seafood and chiles. It's more Korean than Japanese, but that doesn't make it any less tasty.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Tampopo slings a solid miso, but the real star are the excellent, skinny Hakata-style noodles with great bite. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

Tampopo slings a solid miso, but the real star are the excellent, skinny Hakata-style noodles with great bite.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The seafood ramen at Tampopo is a nice, briny bowl with a touch of shellfish oil. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

The seafood ramen at Tampopo is a nice, briny bowl with a touch of shellfish oil.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

Ironically, Tampopo's spicy miso ramen doesn't quite have the balance of their ultra spicy, but it's a compelling bowl and the sweet, stewed burdock root is a delicious contrast. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

Ironically, Tampopo's spicy miso ramen doesn't quite have the balance of their ultra spicy, but it's a compelling bowl and the sweet, stewed burdock root is a delicious contrast.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The west Valley is shy on good ramen, but the spicy tonkotsu at Tomo is solid, a nice blend of creamy pork broth and spicy chile oil (even if the noodles are a little subpar). Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

The west Valley is shy on good ramen, but the spicy tonkotsu at Tomo is solid, a nice blend of creamy pork broth and spicy chile oil (even if the noodles are a little subpar).
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

The shio ramen at Umami is a crystal clear broth with a bracing shot of salt. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

The shio ramen at Umami is a crystal clear broth with a bracing shot of salt.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

Lupin's take on tantanmen spices up his paitan broth and adds heavily seasoned, chewy-crisp cubes of pork. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

Lupin's take on tantanmen spices up his paitan broth and adds heavily seasoned, chewy-crisp cubes of pork.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The noodles at Yama are on the soft side and the broth is a little thin, but verdant greens, a great cured egg and a salty sliver of grilled spam come together to make this an enjoyable bowl. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

The noodles at Yama are on the soft side and the broth is a little thin, but verdant greens, a great cured egg and a salty sliver of grilled spam come together to make this an enjoyable bowl.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The tonkotsu at Obon is an atypically thin version, but it packs some solid flavor. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

The tonkotsu at Obon is an atypically thin version, but it packs some solid flavor.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

The shoyu ramen at Obon is a simple, straight-up pleasure. Dominic Armato/The Republic

Photos: The ultimate Phoenix ramen guide

The shoyu ramen at Obon is a simple, straight-up pleasure.
Dominic Armato/The Republic

But even in the Valley, the ramen scene is starting to make some noise.

When I moved here in 2010, I could count the number of restaurants serving ramen on two hands. Things are very different now.

To research this list, I tasted 120 bowls — yes, 120. I went in search of the most compelling, most interesting, most delicious bowls out there. Here, you’ll find 20 of my favorites, some of them served at the same restaurant. The slideshow features many more that are worth trying.

Happy slurping, folks. And let me know if you find some good ones I missed.

Ramen glossary

Chashu: Pork (usually belly or loin) seasoned and braised until tender, then sliced.

Hakata: A region of Japan on the island of Kyushu, where tonkotsu broth originated.

Katsuobushi: Skipjack tuna fillets that are fermented, smoked, dried and shaved into ribbons to season broths or as a topping.

Kombu: A type of seaweed that adds a richness and ocean-like flavor to broth.

Menma: Fermented bamboo shoots.

Miso: Fermented bean paste. A common base ingredient for ramen tare.

Naruto: Short for narutomaki, a type of sliced fish cake with a spiral pink and white pattern.

Nori: A type of seaweed, served as dried sheets. Also used to wrap sushi rolls.

Shio: Salt. Also, a common style of ramen tare without soy sauce based on salt-heavy ingredients.

Shoyu: A variety of soy sauce. Also, a common style of ramen tare using the same.

Tantanmen: A Japanese ramen version of Sichuan dan dan noodles, topped with seasoned ground pork.

Tare: Intense, usually salty seasoning added to the bottom of the bowl to season ramen broth.

Tonkotsu: A style of rich, creamy broth, made by boiling pork bones (not to be confused with tonkatsu, or fried pork cutlets).

Wakame: A type of seaweed with a deep green flavor and slippery texture.

Shio Ramen — Hana Japanese Eatery

The shio ramen at Hana is a thing of simple beauty, a clean and silky pork broth with a pleasant salinity and a heady whiff of sweet, smoky katsuobushi. Quality noodles with a great bite are topped with slices of roasted pork with a fresh, meaty flavor, scallions, menma, a bit of wakame and a slice of naruto.

Miso Ramen — Hana Japanese Eatery

Decent miso ramen is easy. A dab of salty, umami-rich paste can do wonders for an underpowered broth (the safest order is always the miso). But great miso ramen is a lot harder to find, and Hana’s miso goes above and beyond, smooth and mellow, just a little sweet, and perfectly balanced.

Sapporo Ramen — Noodle Bar

Noodle Bar (formerly Otakumen) has made incredible strides since opening in 2016. The ramen it served for its first six months was almost inedible, but steady improvement has slowly turned its offerings into some of the city's best. One standout is the Sapporo ramen — again, not for purists. Buttery and smooth, flavored with garlic and white miso and piled with bean sprouts, it’s a gently intoxicating little bowl.

Yuzu Shio Ramen — Noodle Bar

Noodle Bar's Sonoran-inspired La Machaca ramen has come off the menu, but in its place is another compelling little number. Featuring skinny noodles with serious bite and fabulous slivers of chashu, this pork-based broth sports a lightening, citrusy lilt and beautiful balance.

Vegan Ramen — Welcome Chicken + Donuts

The vegan ramen, now a regular offering, has a full, umami-heavy flavor with a pleasant sweetness. Noodles can err toward a touch gummy, but chunks of seasoned, roasted jackfruit are mighty satisfying, and pair well with an abundance of fresh vegetables.

Katsu Ramen — SoSoBa

This Flagstaff import cheekily describes its ramen as “unabashedly inauthentic.” That’s the truth, and it’s no handicap. My favorite is Mr. Karl Katsu, an unashamed work of American/Japanese hybrid comfort in a bowl. A rich, buttery broth supports a bunch of vegetables along with smoky bacon bits and a crisp, fried pork cutlet with a drizzle of sweet sauce.

Vegetable Ramen — The Clever Koi

The Clever Koi bathes very respectable noodles in a light vegetable broth teeming with flavor. Roasted mushrooms with intense flavor join scallions and a relish made with corn and minced pickled daikon radish, a sweet-sour combination that pairs surprisingly well.

Shio Ramen — Dozo Izakaya

Dozo Izakaya (not to be confused with Ramen Dozo) is an overlooked destination for ramen where the broth and noodles are solid, but the toppings are outstanding. Its shio broth is simple and flavorful, but Dozo Izakaya slings a killer cured egg and some excellent chashu that’s tender, sweet and a little smoky.

Tan Tan Ramen — Dozo Izakaya

Though perhaps not what traditionalists will seek in a bowl of tantanmen, Dozo Izakaya’s take on the Sichuan-inspired ramen style is more sweet than spicy, topped with a delectable mix of tender eggplant and stir-fried pork.

CRITIC'S PICK: Jared Lupin has resurrected Umami at Shady Park, and his strongest bowl is still his paitan broth, made with a mix of pork and chicken bones to cradle very good noodles. Umami is a build-your-own-bowl concept, featuring a checklist of meats, vegetables and seasoning pastes you can mix and match as you please.(Photo: Dominic Armato/The Republic)

Paitan Ramen — Umami at Shady Park

Jared Lupin has resurrected Umami at Shady Park, and his strongest bowl is still his paitan broth, made with a mix of pork and chicken bones to cradle very good noodles. Umami is a build-your-own-bowl concept, featuring a checklist of meats, vegetables and seasoning pastes you can mix and match as you please.

Ultra-Spicy Ramen — Tampopo Ramen

Anything labeled “ultra spicy” usually is an inedible chile bomb. Not so with Tampopo’s ultra-spicy ramen. This version boasts a mix of heat sources, including dried chiles and chile oil, into a powerful bowl that cuts the fire with a fair amount of sourness and accents it with a shot of garlic and slivers of raw onion. Chile powder is worked into the noodles, too..

Tonkotsu Ramen — Tampopo Ramen

Tampopo has a machine to make its noodles in-house, a thin, straight Hakata style with excellent bite. The default broth is on the light side, but it’s milky and flavorful. The “rich soup” option is stronger, adding some fat and a little funk (controlling the smell of tonkotsu broth can be difficult). Rolled, sliced pork belly is tender and flavorful with heavy seasoning and a little sear, and the egg boasts a nice semi-liquid core.

Tonkotsu Ramen — Nishikawa Ramen

I wish I could put Tampopo’s noodles in Nishikawa’s broth, which is creamy and rich and has a perfectly clean scent. The house-made Hakata-style noodles are too soft, but the slice of pork chashu is a luscious little number, and the egg is delightful, provided you request it soft.

Curry Ramen — Toh Zan Nagasaki Grill

The curry ramen is a delight at this quaint, Japanese mom-and-pop joint. Using less of a broth and more of a thick curry sauce, it’s buttery and sweet as well as spicy, studded with bits of carrot and potato.

Shoyu Ramen — Hot Noodles, Cold Sake

At Josh Hebert's ramen shop, all of his offerings are excellent, but the shoyu is the oft-overlooked star of the menu. Excellent noodles swim in a clear broth that’s dark, silky and laden with briny katsuobushi, and his cured egg is first-rate.

Goma Ramen — Hot Noodles, Cold Sake

Hebert’s signature bowl is the only goma (sesame) ramen I’ve found in town, balanced and rich with a little bit of nutty sweetness. The chashu is excellent, and the bowl boasts a pile of vegetables, including bok choy and fresh peppers, both Fresno and shishito.

Shrimp Ramen — Hot Noodles, Cold Sake

Of the seafood ramen I sampled, this had the best flavor, a careful balance of chile and shellfish flavors laden with tender shrimp, calamari and bay scallops, plus a big pile of shaved katsuobushi for an additional briny boost.

Obon Ramen — Obon Sushi + Bar + Ramen

The tonkotsu and shoyu ramen do the job, but better is the signature Obon: tonkotsu broth with a dash of soy and obsidian-hued bubbles of rich black garlic oil. A little shredded chile, barely set egg and two kinds of pork round out a solid bowl.

Vegetarian Ramen — Obon Sushi + Bar + Ramen

The menu may claim it contains "nothing with a soul," but the bowl itself has plenty. An exercise in building umami without meat, this sultry number uses seaweed and mushrooms to great effect, making for a well-balanced broth that's just as rich as its meatified counterparts.