Where the Locals Play in Tulum, Mexico

Four Tulum locals behind some of the town’s most popular hotspots share tips on the area’s best lesser-known destinations—you will not be finding these places in your guidebook.

Chances are, anyone with an Instagram feed is familiar with Tulum, the idyllic coastal beach town in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo. However, with bars, restaurants, and tourist attractions packed to the gills these days, we wonder: what else is there to do here that won’t be full of other tourists? We asked the locals behind four Tulum hotspots for tips on some of their favorite lesser-known destinations in the area—after all, as experts on hospitality, who’d know better?

“We love everything about Tulum, especially fishing every day and working alongside the Maya communities,” says Werner, who opened Hartwood with wife Mya Henry in 2010. Topping many tourists’ to-do lists, the restaurant’s open-air atmosphere is infectious, and the menu changes daily.

Tip: “There are many great restaurants in Tulum,” Werner says. “I love the ceviche and whole fried fish at El Camello, and the carts with planchas in town. There are no real names, but they’re great, all of them.”

Levy and Navazzotti, seven-year residents of Tulum, own the Argentinean eatery Casa Banana, which serves wood-fired steaks and seafood under the stars. The local favorite attracts a crowd nightly to its candlelit courtyard with an open kitchen, housemade chorizo, and, for kicks, an oft-used foosball table at the front entry.

Tip: “The truffled pasta at Hechizo at Rancho San Eric is a must-try,” Levy says. “And we love the Full Moon Party at Papaya Playa. It happens every month at the full moon; the beach looks amazing, and at high season many of the best DJs perform live until sunrise. People go to dance, or to have a drink, or just to simply hang out and enjoy the scene. It’s a good time.”

A fixture in the Tulum nightlife circuit since 2011, Casa Jaguar offers cocktails and seasonal cuisine in a lantern-strewn garden. Long wait? Have a temazcal—which combines mezcal, tamarind, pineapple, and basil—at the bar, and take in the tunes they’re known for beach-wide (plus, there’s dancing every Thursday at 10pm).

“I moved to Tulum 15 years ago for the rustic sensibilities of beach living,” says Carozzino, co-owner of the oceanfront hotel Posada Margherita. Housed there is a much-beloved Italian restaurant, where homemade pasta and fresh juice are stand-outs on menus bonded to slabs of wood, and where chefs utilize the region’s vibrant, color-rich produce.

Tip: “Try Antojitos La Chiapaneca in town for real tacos al pastor,” Carozzino tells us. “And for vegetarians, Restaurare — which makes very good banana bread and fresh tamarind juice — is a great option. For a drink, I’d recommend Todos Santos, especially on Wednesday nights.”