I am quite familiar with the article you quote, and I don't think it supports your views.

What I see is from my limited experience (2-3000 exposures in three months) is that DoF is a significant problem in MFD and also that MFD is very much affected by diffraction at small apertures. A third factor is sharpening, much of the sharpness lost to diffraction can be regained by adequate sharpening, so there are many paramters to juggle.

Most lenses peak about f/8, but very good lenses work best at f/5.6. For instance, HR Digitars have been said to work best at f/5.6. If a DSLR lens needs to be stopped down to f/5.6 and a MFD lens to f/11 it may not be to bad (it is still in the optimal range), but if the DSLR is stopped down to f/11 and the MFD lens to f/22 it matters a lot.

The enclosed screendumps were taken with a Sonnar 150/4 on a P45+, first shows MTF at different apertures and the scon compares f/8 and f/22.

I agree with BCooter. Use the system that best facilitates your process--workflow and subject matter. I've used just about every film and digital format. Cameras are simply tools.

Wood shop analogies: 1) C-clamps serve one purpose and bar-clamps serve another. 2) Making dovetail joints with hand tools is different than using a router and a jig.

For landscapes, stick with your 30+. As far as versatility goes, it's hard to beat a d800 and complimentary lenses. I like the trilogy--14-24/f2.8, 24-70/f2.8, 70-200/f2.8.I own the first two, but opted for the 70-200/f4 VR.

MF has its advantages, especially regarding the ability to record nuance in color and tonality. FF 35mm is great for portability, speedy AF, high ISO, and in the case of the d800, resolution.

Your P30+ files are plenty robust. It's a fine landscape MFDB. Resist the temptation to buy something new when something not so new works fine. I often use woodworking tools that are over fifty years old.

Electronics have the problem that they age, go out of production and eventually can no longer be service and repaired. Even if one would like they don't have the life span of purely mechanical equipment. If one wants to be "smart" one can sell the gear while it still has some value, and trade up to some newer gear so one stays with fairly recent gear so you always have well-supported gear.

So the question is relevant, if you plan to drop out of MFDB in the long-term, is the right time to do it now while the current back has quite good value, or stay with it until it's no longer worth selling. A P30+ second hand has already lost quite some value (I'd guess you would get something in the range $4000-$5000 for it if sold today) so I think it's better to keep it for as long as you can, and wait and see what new options for DSLRs and MFDB that appear the coming years.

I am quite familiar with the article you quote, and I don't think it supports your views.

Try the calculator at the end of the article.If you have 645 and 35mm, then do the following:Take a picture of the same object at f/32 with both cameras.Then compare front sharpness - it will be much better with 645.f/32 diffraction on 645 is similar to f/22 diffraction on 35mm, but then back sharpness if better on the 645.Same goes for f/22 on 645 - similar to f/16 on 35mm - it's one stop more.

Major major drawback of going just with latest DSLR is you won't be able to post your images for a critique in this section where all great talented photographers hang out. Yes, most are tolerant but a few will parse the words in EXIF. Peace.

Major major drawback of going just with latest DSLR is you won't be able to post your images for a critique in this section where all great talented photographers hang out. Yes, most are tolerant but a few will parse the words in EXIF. Peace.

Erik, Though your vast knowledge does buy u a free pass, IMHO. But I did keep my Hasselblad H series earlier model, tho' D800E makes it sit on the shelf more. Could b 'cause of more travel photography at least in '13. Thnx for sharing your technical know-how, as an Engineer I appreciate it.

People buy what they want and unless they have physical breakdowns, usually love what they buy, because they've already jumped the fence.

Unless I am totally wrong again, some people (like me for example) buy what they think they want and even if they don't have physical breakdowns (to blame for their mistake) usually hate what they buy, because they've already jumped the fence ie no way out except to sell the darn thing and start over

Major major drawback of going just with latest DSLR is you won't be able to post your images for a critique in this section where all great talented photographers hang out. Yes, most are tolerant but a few will parse the words in EXIF.

The solution to this is obviously stitching... since the virtual sensor resulting from stitching with FF DSLR is typically many times larger than the largest of the MF sensors.