Prepurchase decision making process was investigated for the female high school students grouped by fashion leadership. Differences in the fashion leadership were also investigated among the groups determined by demographic characteristics. Data were obtained from 600 female students attending at 4 different high schools in Seoul by self-administered questionnaires, and 430 were used for the data analysis. Respondents were divided into 5 groups by fashion leadership: innovators(6.3%), early adopters(29.8%) , early majority(43.7%) , late majority(16.9%) , laggards(3.3%) , The groups with higher monthly allowances and monthly clothing expenditures showed higher fashion leadership. At the problem recognition stage, students with higher fashion leadership felt buying needs more often than those with lower fashion leadership. At the information search stage, students with higher fashion leadership tended to use higher number of information sources and mass media, visited stores more often, spent more time and collected new information more often, and tended to show higher satisfaction levels with searched information than students with lower fashion leadership. Leaders tended to search information at bonded goods stores and small shops in the area, and laggards prefered to visit small stores in the market. At the alternative evaluation stage, students with higher fashion leadership reported to use higher number of evaluative criteria and consider brand name, acknowledgment of others, becomingness with wardrobe as important criteria for evaluating apparel products; those with lower fashion leadership thought utility, comfort, size, sewing quality an6 fit as key criteria.

The purpose of this thesisis to show that, on the basis of a reconstructed theoretical framework of postmodernisuL the seemingly chaotic phenomena in recent fashion specta ole- i.e. extensive eclecticism and deconstruction of styles - can be systematically explained and that it is by no means a transient anomaly. The main task of this thesis is to distill out from the apparently chaotic scene in the Catwalk such distinctive features as 1. the bona fide postmodern subculture fashion as a non-mainstream,2. the subculture elements introduced in the mainstream, pastiche a la Jameson. Our theoretical framework enables us to establish these features as the necessary outcomes and tendencies of postmodern logic.

The actual conditions of bedclimate are investigated depending on the regions and housing styles used on ondol in spring. Sixty healthy men and women (30 of them live in apartment and 30 of them live in detached house, 20 of them live in Wonju, 20 of them live in Cheongiu and 20 of them live in Pusan). The results are as follows: 1) The differences of bedclothes thickness between spring and autumn were not significant. weight of sleep-wear in spring was less than those in the autumn. 2) In the spring, the temperature and humidity of bedroom, floor, on/under the mattress, were lower and the temperature inside the sleep-wear was higher than those in the autumn. 3) The differences of the temperature and humidity of bedroom, the bed climate, and the clothing microclimate were significant by the regions and housing styles in spring. The temperature of bedroom and inside sleep-wear, the humidity of bedroom and inside sleep- wear in the apartment were higher than those in the detached house. 4) The differences of comfort sensation on the bedroom conditions was significant by the regions, and the differences of thermal sensation was significant by the housing styles. Most subjects perceived warm and dry but comfortable.

The purpose of this study was to find out the clothing values and meanings by material values. The researcher used the scales of Richins & Dawson (1992) for Materialism Scale. The scales of Prentice (1987) and Ricllins (1994a, 1994b) for privateand public meanings of clothing. The scales of Prentice (1987) and Richins (1994a, 1994b) for importance clothes of private and public meanings.. The scales of Creekmore (1968) for clothing values. The subjects of this study were 154 girl students in the university. The research materials was analyzed by Frequency, MANOVA and Scheffe test The results of this study were as follows; 1) Higher group of material values had an orientation that emphasizes enjoyment values of clothing in private moaning and seems expensive of clothing in public meaning. 2) All group set a high value on both suits and jeans in clothing of private meanie that meant both interpersonal and enjoyment values and put much worth on both suits and mustang that concerned both costly and brand. 3) Higher group had significantly difference in aesthetic value and political value, and lower had significantly differene ineconomic value and theoretical value.

The subjects wearing cool clothing (C group) or warm clothing (W stoup) in daily life from September to February of the following year were tested to examine whether cold acclimatization takes place by clothing habits. Subjects rested at 251, then were exposed to 151, 505% R.H. for 90 min in September, November, December, and February. Rectal temperature (Tre) of C group after 90 min cold exposure did not drop below the Tre in throughout the study. W group's Tre, however, dropped below the temperature in 25t from December. Shivering stopped after December in C group while W group continued to show it for the whole study. In resting, C group showed higher heat production than W group in February, and the rate of increase in heat production during cold exposure was smaller in C group than W group in February. C group showed less cold sensation than W group in the same coldness. These results suggest that the level of cold acclimatization may be improved by the habits wearing less clothes in daily life.

Black street style has made unique fashion in popular music such as Jazz, Soul, Rhythm Il Blues. Reggae, and Rap, and it is counterculture and subculture against white. Furthermore, the black street style has played a starring role in the development of white culture as well as black culture, which emerged in direct opposition to the dominant cultures practised by a fraction of fellow countrymen within the black diaspora. The objectives of this study are to examine the social chronology of the black street style and the contemporary fashion, and the influences of the black street style on white culture. The seeds of black's style were sown in the late forties, developing throughout the fifties with the arrival of black immigrants from the west Indies and its examples were zooties, hip cats 8l hipsters, modernists. Rude boy & two-tone was anti·fashion style in sixties and then rastafarians continued in seventies costume is used to convey an essential symbolic class and ethnic message. The latest black's street fashion is hip-hop dress, which is pluralistic and electric, and funk is also erratic. During its ten-year reign as an international style, it has undergone numerous shifts because it is decline of racism B-boy & flygirls toraggamuffins & bhangra style to acid Jazz. These have played a crucial part in influencing the gigh fashion and avant-grade fashion designers' work. Today's street fashion has characteristics of postmodern culture without a racism in global village. Moreover, pop music stars take an effect on the street style continuously. With the opening of a new century, the study of the street style will overcast popular fashion and suggest the direction of fashion design.

The purpose of this study was to investigate consumer shopping orientation toward foreign brands in the context of clothing involvement, ethnocentrism, country-of-orion effects and demograpic variables. But in this paper, to begin with, shopping orientation was studyed in connection with ethnocentrism and country-of-orion effects. The questionnaire was distributed to 300 female consumers over twenties living in pusan area and finally 213 data sets were used for statistical analysis.8y factor analysis,5 shopping orientation factors were identified: following to foreign brands, desire for flaunt, preference to domestics, favor to foreign brands and country-of-orion consciousness. By univariate analysis, consumer's disposition of ethnocentrism was studyed and consumers were divided into 3 groups according to disposition of ethnocentrism through fast cluster analysis. Resurts reveled that Korean consumers have strong ethnocenterism. And country-of-orion effects were studyed. Consumers are favorable toward foreign brands and products, especially toward Italy and France goods, except Hongkong and China goods nevertheless strong ethnocentrisuL As a result of canonical correlation analysis about shopping orientation factors and ethnocenterism revealed that ethnocenterism correlated negatively with one factor (following to foreign brands) and positively with another (preference to domestics).

In this study, the trunks of adult females were classified into several kinds of somatotypes and their distribution according to the age groups was shown. The subjects were 343 females of 18 to 49 year-old. The results were as follows: 1. The trunk somatotypes were classified into 5 types. From factor scores and anthropometric values according to each somatotype, it was shown that the somatotype was classified by the relation between the variables of vertical size and those of horizontal size. 2, As the characteristic of the classified somatotype was represented by the scale and its lateral silhouette was suggested, the characteristic of the classified somatotype was Quickly undertook. 3. By suggesting the canonical discriminant function with the unstardardized canonical coefficient, individual trunk somatotype could be discriminated from the measured anthropometric data without modifying the data. 4. From the frequency distribution of the somatotypes in each age group, the dominant somatotype of each age group was shown differently.

Since 1950 postmodernism shows strong influences in literature, architektuTe, art, clothing and other social and cultural fields. It's main conceptswere individual, pluralistic, unconven- tional and deconstruction of social values. The purpose of thisstudy was to review the influence of postmodernism to German clothing for youth. To achieve this purpose, raga- zinesfor youth ("BKAVO") from 1959 to 1994 surveyed including a number of interviews. The characterizations of postmodernism in fashion are as follows: Sport Clothing has an effect on Oaily Clothing. Exotic phenomenon from south america, africa, asia shows strong in fashion. Subculture(Rocker, Hippie, Punker) is as anti-culture sylnbolically expressed in young fashion which is diffrent from mother-fashion. This appeard in Germany in the 50s, 60san6 70s. However, sub-culture-look in the 80s and 90s is presented only in outer style. It does'nt show any symbolic meanings. "Bricolage" ("mix and match") -concept was appeard in 60s and 70s only in fashion of subculture group. This concept generalized in standard fashion in 80s and 90s.andard fashion in 80s and 90s.

The purpose of this study was to investigate compostion factor and special qualities of design about Korean clothing image. The 72 samples were obtained from domestic fashion magazines. The questionnaire, which was composed 23 semantic diffrential bi-polar scales, was distributed to 50 female students majoring in Clothing and Textiles. The data were analyzed through factor analysis, anova, scheffe's test, clust analysis. The results were as follows; 1) Through factor analysis about Korean clothing image, 5 factors were identified; elegance, simplicity, femininity, tradition, looseness. 2) By cluster analysis, 3 clusters were determined according to Korean clothing image. Special qualities of design about Korean clothing image showed that there were lots of H silhouette in clothing form, related harmony in color harmony, somewhat rough and crude in texture and simple design in decoration. Top was more or less fit and bottom was found somewhat exaggerated tendency in fitness. 3) As a result of the visual evaluation about Korean clothing image, there were significant differences in all factors.

The dyeing with loess has been studied. Two kinds of cotton fabrics having different thickness and density were dyed in loess paste bath. The color differences of the fabrics which were dyed repeatedly.five times were not significant. The dyeing of cotton fabrics with loess was not exactly reproducible, but dyeability of the cotton fabrics of high density was better than that of low density. Loess on the dye6 fabrics was physically jammed between the fibers in the form of the fine particles. The cotton fabrics dyed with loess have good light fastness, but their laundering fastness and abrasion fastness were not good. An aftertreatment was carried out by using the extracted solution from acorn or persimon, and FeSO4 lot improving fastness. When the dyed fabrics was after-treated with FeSO4, the laundering fastness and wet abrasion fastness were improved extremely.

The purpose of this study was to identify the variables which could predict advertisement preference and intention to purchase product in sexuality-oriented fashion advertising. The data were collected using questionnaires which contained nine advertisements of Guess jeans, selected from Vogue magazine published from 1990 to 1996.441 college students (female= 225, male=216) living in Seoul, Korea participated in the study. The data were analyzed by factor analysis and stepwise elimination method of multiful regression analysis. The results of this study were as follows: First, seven factors of New Young Generation oriented characteristics were identified: fashion, individuality, preferences of caffa or reggae bar with affective mood, expression of emotion, individualism, preferences of a foreign-made product/western culture oriented tastes and activity of fan club/chatting through personal computers. Three factors of fashion advertising involvement were identified: social involvement, hedonic involvement and utilitarian involvement. Second, the variables which predicted preferences of advertisements in sexuality-oriented fashion advertising were perceived eroticism levels, hedonic involvenent, prior brand attitude and preference of a foreign-made product/western culture oriented tastes in the case of females, while perceived eroticism levels, hedonic involvenent prior brand attitude, preference of a foreign-made product/western culture oriented tastes and activity of fan club/ chatting through personal computers were identified as predictor variables for males. Third, the intention to purchase product was predicted by preference of a foreign-made product/western culture oriented tastes, prior brand attitude, hedonic involvenent and fashion for females, and by perceived eroticism levels, fashion opinion leadership, hedonic involvenent and prior brand attitude in the case of males.

This study aims to analyze Sungkyunkwan Students' uniform during Chosen dynasty through literature and paintings. Confucian scholar's coshime of Chosen dynasty was said to imitate that of Chinese counterpart's. The first Confucian scholars costume, which was officially instituded during King Taeiong's reign, was a Yugon worn on the head and a Chongkeum (blue collar). But Chinese Gukjagam students'uniform in the early Ming years was a Nansam and later became a blue Wonryong which reflected the changes in the Ming Period. Though Chosun's Chongkeum was the official Confucian scholar's costume on record, it was not worn widely. Corfucian scholars rather wore a red Jikryong or a white coat up to the mid-Chosun dynasty, and in the late Chosen period, a black Danryong or a red Danryong were more popular for Confucian scholars. Because the official Confucian scholar's uniform Chongkeum was not used widely and other costumes were worn more popularly, various attempts had been made to adopt the Nansam, like that of Ming's, as the official Costume scholar's uniform from King Snio to King Youngio. Finally, King Youngjo decided to adopt the Nansam as the official costume for those who passed the civil service examination, ending the controversies concerning an official costume. We cannot find the Nansam and the Aengsam of the late Chosen period from the paintings either. This conirms that Aengsam was the costume which originated from the late Chosun period. The term "Chongkeum" was used either to imply "Confucian scholar' or to indicate various 'Confucian scholar's costume rather than its original meaning of blue collar.

Changes in surface properties and detergency of sunactant mixtures were investigated in order to study the optimum mixing ratio of anionic and nonionic surfactants by measuring surface tension, interfacial tension, suspendability, and emulsification as a Amction of mixing ratio. Also, surface tension and detergency of the surfactant mixtures were determined with the increase of water-hardness or temperature. The results were as follows: the addition of NPE to anionic surfactant solutions (LAS or SDS) by 0.1 mole fraction remarkably decreased surface tension. NPE (n=15)/anionic surfactant mixtures showed a synergistic effect in lowering interfacial tension and emulsification, but NPE (n=7.5)/anionic surfactant mixtures did not. In suspension stability, however, synergism appeared when LAS or 505 was mixed with both of NPE's. With respect to the hydrophile of NPE, NPE (n=15) was more effective than NPE (n=i.5) in improving suspension stability. Detergency of LAS/NPE mixture changed almost linearly with mixing ratio, but that of SDS/NPE mixture increased remarkably by the addition of 0.1 or 0.2 mole fraction of NPE at all temperatures. As the temperature increased, surface tension of surfactant mixtures decreased and detergency was improved, but their synergistic effect decreased. In hard water, the mixtures showed better detergency than single surfactuant solutions.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between the consumer's product knowledge and his/her ability to obtain information when buying clothing. For the purpose of this study, questionnaires were given to 550 university students living in Seoul and the Kwgi area. The questionnaires were designed to measure the consumer's knowledge about examine his/her method of gathering information and to obtain some personal information Vsing a base of 407 students, data was analyzed through cross- tabulation, the chi square test, the t-test, the one-way ANOVA accompanied by a post-hoc analysis with the Tukey method, Pearson's correlation coefficient, and the Spearman rho. The results of this study were as follows. 1) There was a significant difference in the amount of iuormation seeking between groups with different knowledge related to clothing. 2) The use of information sources was found to be significantly related to the consumer's subjective and objective knowledge. 3) The consumer's level of knowledge about clothing was related to the store characteristics that he/she took into consideration. The difference between the groups came from the number of store characteristics taken into consideration, rather than from the contents. The group that had more knowledge related to clothing was more aware of store characteristics than the other level stoup. Price, quality, uniqueness, and variety of clothing were equally important to by groups. 4) A moderate relationship was found between the consumer's subjective and objective knowledge, and between his/her purchasing experience and objective knowledge. There was a relatively high relationship between purchasing experience and subjective knowledge.