No spark 155,000 miles. Running fine until "died" a few days ago. Mechanic says "no spark." Changed the distributor pick up; tested the coil - OK. Says it's the computer. Still waiting for a reman to be delivered. Is this the problem? Most other forums say it's the crankshaft sensor.

The CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) is a common reason for no starts. Sometimes the connector loses its connection. I would unplug it, check for corrosion on the leads and plug it back in with dielectric grease.

The crankshaft position sensor is mounted to the transmission bellhousing at the left/rear side of engine block

Before you replace the computer have the crank sensor replace it is located between transmission and engine by the driver's side on top of transmission
most likelly your computer is ok
the distribuitor has nothign to do with spark on this cars

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Related Questions:

If this is a conversion from old points style to HEI modern style, the problem may be the resistance wire is still in the circuit, which should have been removed from the power circuit to the distributor.
If the ignition coil reads 12 volts to its 12 volts terminal, then you should replace the ignition module, furthermore, a pickup coil and sprocket can also be replaced from under the rotor but the distributor needs to be removed and disassembled to get to the pickup coil and sprocket. Some Fords don't need to be removed but do need some disassembling to replace all of its electrical components.

If it has spark to the plugs, normal compression, and fuel, it should start. So assuming it does have normal compression, I would want to know if it will try to start by spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body to substitute the injector spray. One of the three components is missing.
Another thing to check is the distributor cap and rotor to make sure spark is reaching all of the plugs at the right time.

There is a black fuel relay way up under the top left driver side dash that breaks its main wire solder connections on the circuit board under over-heat conditions. Resolder that relay. Starting fluid will show that you have lost fuel delivery under no start conditions. You can use the breather hose from the valve cover for this test.

It still sounds to me like you are not getting spark. Re check the spark plugs that they are properly tightened and that the plug wires are connected. I am thinking this is from the distributor cap to the spark plug where the problem is.

this may be a few things, the most common is a bad ignition coil,this looses spark and car dies, then after cranking a few times it will start to work again, the problem can also be a fuelpump doing the same thing, the best thing would be to check for spark when it dies but you would need someone to spin the engine while you were to see if the sparkplug wire was sparking,another common thing is the distributor itself or the cap, see this can go on and on without a good diagnoses you can throw parts at this car all day, it would be cheaper to have someone test it, they would need to drive it until it stalled and then do some quick testing before it started and this may take a few days because you said after a few times it will run fine,

First thing is what condition are the distributor cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires in?

There is the possibility that the ignition coil located in the top of the distributor cap is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Bat" or "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position. Then check the secondary resistance to the ignition coil.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

The most common problem that causes this that i can think of is a detective pick-up coil in the distributor.Remove the cap and rotor button and then the plate that is under where the rotor button was,there you will find the pick-up coil and the reluctor wheel that makes it work.These will go open when warm periodically and can easily be overlooked,the ignition coil could also be the problem as well as the ignition module but the pick-up is the most common.

try to replace the coil and all the spark plugs also make sure that the plugs are gapped right. that info will be on the evaporation sticker onthe core support in the front of the truck under hood. I think it is 0.004 not 100% sure on that. I hope that helps