Casa Hacienda Grill bears more than a passing resemblance to the well-regarded La Hacienda
restaurant that was once a couple of miles away on Sinclair Road.

The staff makes both flour and corn tortillas; the menu is huge; the complimentary salsa is
spicy and unusually flavorful with onions, cilantro, chili and fresh-tasting tomato; and the
refried beans aren’t just filler but have flavor.

The E. Dublin-Granville Road location, which has been open for about two years, conveys a
south-of-the-border spirit. Ceramic tiles decorate the walls and tabletops. The large serving
dishes are ceramic, not plastic. The overall effect is somewhat upscale.

Much of the cooking is distinguished by Casa Hacienda’s take on what would otherwise be the
standard Tex-Mex and Mexican-restaurant recipes that are found everywhere. Thus the guacamole ($3)
isn’t just pureed avocado; it contains large cubes of the fruit. The fresh-tasting avocado is
seasoned with chili flavors and onion. The impression is that it is made throughout the day.

The soft corn tortillas are a plus in the chicken mulitas ($13.95). The tortillas sandwich
pieces of seared chicken, avocado, cheese and a green tomatillo-based sauce.

The effect is pleasing and savory, with plenty of contribution from the fresh tortillas.
Finishing the plate are a scoop of sour cream, some guacamole, the excellent refried beans and some
rice.

Not every dish that contains corn tortillas is given the house-made versions. Be sure to ask for
them; there is apparently no price increase.

Similarly, when ordering any dish with flour tortillas, insist on the house-made variety, which
have a fresh, grilled taste that shames the regular ones.

Diners should do this when ordering the costillas verdes ($14.95), which would otherwise come
with ordinary flour tortillas. Its chopped, bone-in pork has the complexity of a stew and seems to
have been marinated and cooked in a tomatillo-based salsa. Additional interest comes from molcajete
sauce, made from roasted onion, tomato, garlic and chili pepper.

The preparation is rustic. Be prepared to cut off unwanted fat along with the bones. But it’s
worth the work to get to the flavorful meat.

Casa Hacienda makes chile rellenos ($7.95) by enveloping the cheese-filled pepper in a thin
omelet. The technique allows the kitchen to add carrot, cauliflower and broccoli to the chile that,
though healthful, competes with the taste of the chile and the omelet. Ask that the vegetables be
served on the side.

Cheese enchiladas ($8.95 as an entree) are straightforward: just cheese in and on a corn
tortilla. Maybe that is why it is so delicious.

The mole ranchero ($11.95) is outstanding because of its sauce, which reflects the proper
inclusion of cocoa and what seems to be several types of mild chile peppers.

The chicken pieces are cut cleaver-style, so watch for fine pieces of bone. They have a much
fuller flavor than the usual industrial boneless breasts.

Tamales ($3 each) are made without the traditional corn-husk wrapping. The masa-style cornmeal
is made into a dough encasing shredded beef that has a complex flavor, as if it had been marinated
and roasted before being shredded. On top is the good-tasting melted yellow cheese used in many
dishes here.

The sopitos ($11.95) also use masa-style cornmeal to make three bunlike cakes. Each holds black
beans, the seasoned shredded beef, white and yellow cheeses, lettuce and tomato. It is different,
enjoyable and filling — even if you don’t touch the accompanying rice and refried beans.

The well-made flan ($2.95) is unusually dark, reflecting caramelization throughout and not just
on top. The texture is thick but supple.

The drink lineup includes a fancy fruit margarita (cazuela, $10.95). It is presented in a large
bowl that shows off all of the fresh fruit included in the blend of tequila and juices.