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THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
CAl'T. FELL
CAI'T. PHILLIPS COL. O SULLIVAN
LIEUT. STEKL
GEN. HARROW GEN. SIR A. GASELEE, K.C.B.
COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF AND STAFF OF THE BRITISH FORCES
IN NORTH CHINA
THE
LAND OF THE BOXERS
INDIAN ARMY
WITH 15 ILLUSTRATIONS AND A PLAN
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON
NEW YORK AND BOMBAY
1903
All rights reserved
TO
THE OFFICERS
OF THE
AMERICAN AND BRITISH
NAVAL AND MILITARY FORCES
IN CHINA
PREFACE
WRITTEN many thousand miles from the
ever - troubled land of China, with no
opportunity for reference, this book doubtless
contains many errors, for which the reader's in-
dulgence is asked. The criticisms of the various
armies are not the result of my own unaided
impressions, but a rtsumd of the opinions of the
many officers of the different contingents with
whom I conversed on the subject.
My thanks are due to Sir Richard Harrison, K.C.B.,
Inspector -General of Fortifications, who served
with the Allied Army which captured Pekin in
1860, for his courtesy in permitting me to use
some of the excellent photographs taken by the
Photo Section, Royal Engineers.
THE AUTHOR
LONDON, 1903
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
FROM WEI-HAI-WEI TO TIENTSIN
Our transport An Irish padre" Wei-hai-wei harbour by night
The island by day The mainland On to Taku Taku at last
The allied fleet The famous forts The Peiho River The Allies
at Tong-ku The British at Hsin-ho The train to Tientsin A
motley crowd of passengers The country en route A historic
railway station .... pages 1-16
CHAPTER II
TIENTSIN
The foreign settlement The Chinese city The linguists in the
Anglo-Indian army The Tientsin Club A polyglot crowd round
the bar The English Concession The famous Gordon Hall
The brawls in Taku Road Dissensions among the Allied troops
The attack on the Royal Welch Fusiliers' patrol The siege of
Tientsin Scene of the fighting Accuracy of the Chinese shell-
fire Soldier life in the streets of Tientsin Tommy Atkins
Peace and War The revenge of Christianity The " railway
siding incident " .... pages 17-33
CHAPTER III
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA
The German expeditionary force Out-of-date tactics Failure of
their transport Their campaigning dress The German officer
The French troops Improved training and organisation of
the French army The Russians Endurance and bravery of
the Russian soldier Defective training The Japanese army
CONTENTS
Its transport system in China Splendid infantry The courage
of the Japanese Excellence of their Intelligence Department
Its working The East sown with their agents The discipline
of the Japanese soldiers Their bravery in action Moderation
in victory Friendship for our sepoys The American troops
Continental criticism The American army of the future
Gallantry of the Americans at the capture of Tientsin General
Dorward's praise Friendship between the American and British
troops Discomfiture of an English subaltern The Italians
Holland's imposing contingent The Indian army A revelation
to the world Indian troops acting alone Fighting qualities
of the various races The British officers of the Indian army
Organisation of an Indian regiment Indian cavalry Loyalty
of the sepoy ..... pages 34-63
CHAPTER IV
PEKIN
To the capital The railway journey Von Waldersee's introduction
to our Royal Horse Artillery The Temple of Heaven The
Temples of the Sun and Moon The Centre of the Universe
The Chien Mn Gate Legation Street The H&tel du Nord
Description of Pekin The famous walls The Tartar City The
Imperial City The Forbidden City Coal Hill The Ming Pagoda
The streets of Pekin A visit to the Legations The siege
Pekin mud A wet day A princely palace Chong Wong Foo
A visit to the Forbidden City The Imperial eunuchs Seated on
the Emperor's throne His Majesty's harem A quaint notice
A giant bronze The Imperial apartments The Emperor's bed-
room The Empress-Dowager's pavilion Musical-boxes and
toys Her Majesty's bed The Imperial Garden The view from
Coal Hill ..... pages 64-94
CHAPTER V
RAMBLES IN PEKIN
The Peitan Defence of the Cathedral A prelate of the Church
militant A gallant defence Aspect of Pekin after the restoration
of order A stroll down Ha-ta-man Street Street scenes
Peddlers Jugglers Peep-shows and a shock A dancing bear
Shoeing a pony The sorrows of a Pekin shopkeeper Silk and
fan shops A pottery store A market-place A chaffering crowd
Beggars The Legation wall Visit to the Great Lama Temple
CONTENTS xi
The outer gate The first court Lama priests Rapacious
beggars The central temple Colossal statue of Buddha The
lesser temples Improper gods Photographing 1 the priests
The Temple of Confucius A bare interior A visit to a Pekin
cloisonnd factory Method of manufacture Deft artists Firing
The enamel The humiliation of China The standards of the
victors ..... pages 95- n 4
CHAPTER VI
THE SUMMER PALACE
Our ponies The ride through the streets Evil-smelling lanes
The walls The shattered gate-towers The Japanese guard
The taking of the City and relief of the Legations The paved
high-road A fertile country The villages A ruined temple
Bengal Lancers and Mounted Infantrymen A ride through the
fields Distant view of the palace The ornamental gate The
entrance The sepoy guard The outer courtyard Bronzes on
the temple verandah A network of courts Royal Artillery
mess in the pavilion that had served as the Emperor's prison
The shaded courtyard Officers' quarters looking out on the lake
A marble-walled lake Lotos Boats A walk round the lake
The covered terrace The Bersagliere guard Pretty summer-
houses The Empress's temples The marble junk A marble
bridge Lunch in a monarch's prison The hill over the lake
A lovely view The Hall of Ten Thousand Ages Vandalism
Shattered Buddhas The Bronze Pagoda The island The
distant hills Summer quarters of the British Legation The
ride back Tropical rain Flooded streets A swim pages 115-132
CHAPTER VII
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN
A long journey The junction at Tong-ku Mud flats A fertile
country Walled villages Mud forts Defended stations The
canal Tong-shan The refreshment room The coal mines
Hills Roving brigands Shanhaikwan Stranded at the station
Borrowing a bed Hunting for a meal A Continental caf'6
Spatch-cocks A woman without pride A mosquito concert with
refreshments Rigging up a net A surprise for the British and
Russian station officers A midnight introduction An admiring-
Russian Kind hospitality Good Samaritans The Gurkha
mess Fording a stream A Russian cart The Great Wall of
xii CONTENTS
China Snipe The forts The old camp The walls of the city
On the cliffs by the sea The arrival of the Japanese fleet A
shock for a Russian dinner-party The sea frozen in winter A
cricket match Shooting- snipe on the cricket pitch Dining with
my Russian friends Vodki Mixed drinks The wily Russian
and the Newchwang railway Tea 4 la Russe Heavy rain The
line flooded Cossacks on a raft Cut off from everywhere An
orderly of the 3rd Bombay Cavalry A sowar's opinion of the
Russian invasion of India Collapsed houses Friendly scene
between Japanese soldiers and our sepoys The floods subside
The return Smuggling- arms Lieutenant Stirling, D.s.o.
pages 133-168
CHAPTER VIII
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST
HONG KONG AND THE KOWLOON HINTERLAND
Importance of Hong Kong- as a naval and military base An object-
lesson of Empire Its marvellous rise The constant menace of
famine Cause of Hong Kongo's prosperity Its geographical
position An archipelago Approaching Hong Kong- by sea
First view of Victoria A crowded harbour The mainland
The Kowloon Peninsula The city of Victoria Queen's Road
Shops, hotels, banks The City Hall The palatial club The
Brigade Parade Ground The base Commissariat Officer, Major
Williams, l.s.c. The Naval Dockyard Sir Francis Powell,
K.C.M.G. Barracks and Arsenal The Happy Valley A memento
mori The polo ground Lyeemoon Pass The southern side of
the Island The Peak The cable tramway View from the Peak
The residential quarter The floating population of Hong
Kong- The sampans Their dangers in the past The rising-
suburb of Kowloon The Hong Kong regiment The docks
The Chinese city of Kowloon Street scenes in Hong Kong
Social amusements of the colony Society in Hong Kong and
Kowloon The Kowloon Peninsula Danger to Hong Kong
averted by its possession Character of the peninsula The
frontier The Chinese territory beyond it The taking over of
the Hinterland in 1898 A small campaign The chances of a
land invasion of Hong Kong The garrison of Hong Kong
Advisability of mounted infantry . . pages 169-201
CONTENTS xiii
CHAPTER IX
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA
A camp on the British frontier Fears of outbreaks in Canton The
Black Flags Alarm in Hong Kong General Gaselee's troops
diverted to Hong Kong and Shanghai His authority among the
Allies weakened in consequence Wild rumours in Canton The
reform party in the south The Triads Rebellion in the Kwang-
tung province Admiral Ho Troops despatched from Hong
Kong to guard the frontier The Frontier Field Force Its
composition The departure of the column A picturesque
voyage An Imperial Chinese Customs gunboat The Samchun
River War junks Our first camp Admiral Ho's army Con-
sternation among the Chinese troops They march away No
official maps of the Hinterland A Customs station Britishers
in danger Chinese-made modern guns A false alarm A phan-
tom battle Chinese fireworks A smart trick at the storming of
the Peiyang Arsenal A visit to Samchun A game of bluff
Taking tea with a mandarin Round the town Cockroaches as
a luxury A Yankee Chinaman A grateful escort Terrified
Chinese soldiers An official visit to a mandarin Southern
Chinese soldiers The Imperial troops in the north A real alarm
A night raid A disappointment . . pages 202-230
CHAPTER X
IN THE PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO
Early history of Macao Its decay A source of danger to Hong
Kong Fleet of the Hong Kong, Canton, and Macao Steamboat
Company The Heungshan and its passengers Guarding
against piracy Macao from the sea An awkward Chinaman
The Boa Vista Hotel View over the city The Praia Grande
Around the peninsula In the Public Gardens Administration of
Macao A night alarm A mutinous regiment Portuguese and
Macaese society A visit to the Governor An adventure with
the police An arrest Insolent treatment of British subjects
Redress An arrest in Japan Chinese gambling-houses Fan-
tan The sights of Macao . . . pages 231-255
xiv CONTENTS
CHAPTER XI
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON
Hostility of Canton to foreigners The scare in 1900 History of
Canton's relations with the outer world Its capture and occupa-
tion by the English and French The foreign settlement The
river journey from Hong Kong to Canton River scenes at
Canton A floating city Description of Canton The streets
A visit to the shops Feather workers Ivory carvers Embroi-
dery shops Temple of the Five Hundred Genii Marco Polo
among the gods The prison The cangue Insolent prisoners
Chinese punishments Death of a Thousand Cuts The Temple
of Horrors The Examination Hall Shameen The English and
French concessions Foreign gunboats The trade of Canton
French designs Energy of their consuls Our weak forbearance
An attack on Canton by river and by land . pages 256-278
CHAPTER XII
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE
At England's mercy in the past An easy and tempting prize
Patriotism unknown The Chinaman's wonderful love of his
family Causes of his want of patriotism His indifference as to
his rulers The Chinese abroad Hatred of foreigners in China
Its causes This hatred common to all classes A substitute
for the non-existent patriotism Can we blame the Chinese?
A comparison If England were like China Our country in-
vaded by Chinese, Coreans, Siamese, and Kamschatkans The
missionaries in China The gospel of love becomes the doctrine
of revenge The China of the present Tyranny and corruption
What the future may prove Japan's example Japan in the
past and now What she is China may become Intelligence of
the Chinese Their success in other countries The Chinaman
as a soldier Splendid material Examples: the Boxers; the
Regulars who attacked Seymour and Tientsin ; the military
students at Tientsin ; the behaviour of our Chinese Regiment
under fire Heavy losses among- the Allies in the beginning of
the campaign Comparison of the Egyptian fellaheen The
Chinese army of the future A reformed Empire pages 279-298
INDEX . . . . . . pages 299-307
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF AND STAFF OF THE BRITISH FORCES
IN NORTH CHINA .... Frontispiece
PLAN OF PEKIN . . . . . . . Xvi
EUROPEAN CONCESSIONS, TIENTSIN, AND THE PEIHO RIVER . . 17
EXECUTION OF A BOXER BY THE FRENCH . . 28
PUBLIC GARDENS AND GORDON HALL IN THE VICTORIA ROAD,
ENGLISH CONCESSION . . . ... 28
FRENCH COLONIAL INFANTRY MARCHING THROUGH THE FRENCH
CONCESSION, TIENTSIN . . ... 38
GERMAN OFFICERS WELCOMING FIELD - MARSHAL COUNT VON
WALDERSEE AT THE RAILWAY STATION, TIENTSIN . . 38
UNITED STATES CAVALRYMAN . . . 51
GERMAN AND INDIAN SOLDIERS . . ... 56
FIELD-MARSHAL COUNT VON WALDERSEE REVIEWING THE ALLIED
TROOPS IN PEKIN . . . ... 68
A STREET IN THE CHINESE CITY, PEKIN . . . . 72
FRONT FACE OF THE DEFENCES OF THE LEGATIONS . 78
GROUNDS OF THE BRITISH LEGATION, PEKIN . . IO7
A STREET IN THE TARTAR CITY, PEKIN, AFTER HEAVY RAIN . . 127
THE MARBLE JUNK . . . ... 127
THE CANGUE . . . . ... 269
11
Tartar City
11
aio
.SiBl
^! ~1H4 V/3 ^U
\
i
Chin
e s
e
City
,3 SI' 2
15
14
an of P e k i
Gates.
1. Chien Men Gate. 2. Tung-Chi Gate, attacked by the Japanese. 8. Ha-ta-
man Gate. 4. The Water-gate, a tunnel in the Wall between the Tartar and
Chinese cities. By this the Indian troops entered the Legations. 5, 5. Nullah
draining the Tartar City. 6. The English Legation. 7. The Japanese Lega-
tion. 8. The Russian Legation. 9. The American Legation. 10. The Hotel
duNord. 11, 11, 11. Ha-ta-man Street. 12. The Temple of Heaven. 13. Tem-
porary railway station. 14. Railway line passing through a breach in the Wall
15. The Temple of Agriculture, occupied by the Americans.
CHAPTER I
FROM WEI-HAI-WEI TO TIENTSIN
OUR transport steamed over a glassy sea along
the bold and rugged coast of Shan-tung in
Northern China. Ahead of us, a confused jumble
of hills dark against the setting sun, lay Wei-hai-
wei.* A German steamer homeward bound from
Chifu dipped her flag to the blue ensign with
crossed swords flying at our peak. Close inshore
an occasional junk, with weird outlines and quaint
sail, lay becalmed. On our deck, lying in easy-
chairs, were a dozen officers of various branches
of the Service, all bound for Pekin. Some were
fresh from South African battlefields, others were
there whose soldiering had been done in India or
in Burma.
Among our number was a well-known and
popular military chaplain, the Reverend Mr. Hardy,
* Pronounced " Way high way."
B
2 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
author of the famous How to be Happy though
Married. A living testimony to the success of
his own theory, he was the most genial and delight-
ful shipmate I have ever met. Dowered with all
an Irishman's wit and humour, he had been the
life and soul of everyone on board. He had
recently arrived in Hong Kong from Europe,
having travelled across America, where his studied
carelessness of dress and wild, untrimmed beard
had been a constant source of wonderment to the
smart citizens of the United States. "In Salt
Lake City," he told us, "a stranger addressed me
one day in my hotel. ' Excuse me, sir,' he said,
' would you oblige me and my friends at this table
by deciding a small bet we have made ? ' 'I fear
I shall be of little use,' replied Mr. Hardy ; ' I
have only just reached your city.' ' Not at all.
The bet is about yourself. We can't make out
which of three things you are a Mormon elder,
a Boer General, or a Scotchman.' And, faith,"
added our Irish padrt when he told us the tale,
" I think I felt most insulted at their last guess."
The sun went down slowly behind a chain of
rugged hills. But soon before us, set in a silver
sea, the island of Wei-hai-wei rose dark and
sombre under a glorious moon. In the glistening
water lay the dim shapes of several warships, their
black hulls pierced with gleaming portholes. On
their decks, bright with electric lamps, bands were
playing, their strains swelling louder and louder as
FROM WEI-HAI-WEI TO TIENTSIN 3
we drew near. Far off the hills of the mainland
stood out sharply against the sky, with here and
there below a twinkling light from the villages or
the barracks of the Chinese Regiment.
As our steamer rounded a long, low point, on
which lay a deserted fort, every line distinct in the
brilliant moonlight, the town came into view. The
houses nestled down close to the water's edge,
while above them the island rose in gentle slope to
a conical peak. Our anchor plunged sullenly into
the sea, and we lay at rest in England's most
Eastern harbour. Considerations of quarantine
prevented us from going ashore, and we were
forced to wait for daylight to see what the place
was like.
Early on deck next morning we watched the
mists fade away until Wei-hai-wei stood revealed
in the strong light of the sun. Our latest posses-
sion in the East consists of a small island, called
Liu-Kung-tao, on which stands the town. It lies
about four miles from the mainland, of which a few
hundred square miles has been leased to England.
The harbour is sheltered to the south by the hills
on the coast, to the north by the island. It affords
ample anchorage for a large fleet, but could not be
adequately defended without a large expenditure.
During the China-Japan War the Chinese fleet
sheltered in it until routed out by the Japanese
torpedo boats ; while the Japanese army marched
along the heights of the mainland, seized the forts
4 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
on them, and, turning their guns on the island,
forced its surrender.
At the end of the island, round which our trans-
port had passed, was a small peninsula, on which
stood the fort we had seen. Dismantled now, it
was unused by the present garrison. Close by, on
reclaimed land, lay the recreation ground ; and even
at the early hour at which we saw it, tennis and
cricket were in full swing. Just above it, in that
close proximity of life and death found ever in
the East, was the cemetery, where many crosses
and tombstones showed already the price we pay
for empire. Near at hand was the magazine, over
which a Royal Marine sentry watched. Below, to
the right, lay the Naval Dockyard with a pier
running out into the harbour, one destroyer along-
side it, another moored a short distance out. Along
the sea-front and rising in tier after tier stood
well-built stone Chinese houses, which now, large-
windowed and improved, serve as residences, shops,
and offices for Europeans. A staring whitewashed
wall bore the inscription in big, black letters, "Ah
Ting. Naval Dairy Farm." A picturesque, open-
work wall with Chinese summer-houses at either
end enclosed the Club. Farther on, a little above
the harbour, stone steps through walled terraces led
up to the Headquarter Office, once the Yamen
a long row of single-storied houses with a quaint
gateway, on either side of which were painted grim
Chinese figures of heroic size. On the terrace in
FROM WEI-HAI-WEI TO TIENTSIN 5
front stood some large Krupp guns with shields,
taken in the present campaign. The Queen's House,
as these buildings are called, divides the naval from
the military quarter of the town, the latter lying
to the right. A few good European bungalows
sheltered the General, the Commanding Royal
Engineer, and the local representative of the famous
firm of Jardine, Mathieson, and Company. In the
lines of Chinese houses close by were the residences
of the military officers and the hotel. To the
right stacks of fodder proclaimed the presence of
the Indian Commissariat. Past open ground lay a
small camp and a few more houses.
Above the town the island rises in terraced
slopes to the summit, four to six hundred feet high,
the regular outline of which was broken by mounds
of upturned earth that marked the beginning of a
new fort. On the hillside are long stone walls with
gates at intervals, which date from the Chinese
occupation, built by them, not to keep the enemy
out in time of war, but to keep their own soldiers
in. Well-laid roads lead to the summit or round
the island. The slopes are green with small shrubs
and grass, but nothing worthy of the name of tree is
apparent. Towards the eastern end were the rifle-
ranges, near which a fort was being constructed.
In the harbour was a powerful squadron of
British battleships and cruisers ; for Wei-hai-wei
is the summer rendezvous of our fleet in Chinese
waters.
6 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
To the south the mainland lay in a semicircle.
Rugged, barren hills rise abruptly in many places
almost from the water's edge. Where the ground
slopes more gently back from the sea lines of sub-
stantial stone barracks have been erected for the
Chinese Regiment, with excellent officers' quarters
and a good mess. Nestling among trees almost
the only ones to be seen on the iron-bound coast
lies a large village. East of it a long triangle
of embrasured stone wall the base on the shore,
the apex half-way up the hill behind guards the
original town of Wei-hai-wei, which still owns
Chinese sovereignty, though all the country round
is British territory. A few good bungalows and a
large and well-built hotel mark where the future
Brighton of North China has already begun to
claim a recognition ; for in the summer months the
European residents of Tientsin, Pekin, even of
Shanghai are commencing to congregate there in
search of cool breezes and a healthy climate. High
up above all towers the chain of rugged hills from
whose summits the victorious Japanese gazed down
on the wrecked Chinese fleet and the battered
forts of the island. Behind it, forty miles away,
lies the little-known treaty port of Chifu with its
prosperous foreign settlement.
The day advanced. From the warships in the
harbour the bugle-calls rang out merrily in the
morning air, answered by the brazen clangour of the
trumpets of the Royal Artillery ashore. The rattle
FROM WEI-HAI-WEI TO TIENTSIN 7
of musketry came from the rifle-ranges, where
squads of marines were firing. Along the sea-
front tramped a guard of the Chinese Regiment.
Clad in khaki with blue putties and straw hats, they
marched with a soldierly swing to the Queen's
House, climbed the steps, and disappeared in the
gateway. Coolies laboured at the new fortifications.
Boats shot out from the pier and headed for the
warships. Volumes of dense black smoke poured
from the chimneys of the condensing works for no
water fit for drinking is found on the island. A
cruiser steamed out from her moorings to gun-
practice in the bay. And hour after hour we waited
for the coming of the Health Officer, who alone
could allow us to land. But, instead, the Transport
Officer arrived, bearing orders for the ship to start
at once for Taku. And so, with never a chance for
us to go ashore, the anchor rumbled up and out we
headed by the eastern passage. As we steamed
out to sea we passed the tiny Sun Island, merely a
deserted fort, still showing how cruelly battered and
torn it had been by the Japanese shells. Round
the steep north side of the island we swung and
shaped our course for Taku in the track of the
Allied Fleets that had swept in vengeful haste over
those same waters to the merited punishment of
China. All that day we passed along a rocky and
mountainous coast and in among islands of strange
and fantastic shape. Here an elephant, there a
lion, carved in stone lay in slumber on the placid
8 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
sea. Yonder a camel reposed in Nirvana-like ab-
straction. On one islet, the only sign of life or
human habitation we saw, stood a lighthouse, like
unto lighthouses all the world over.
Next morning we awoke to find the ship at
anchor. " Taku at last," was the cry ; and, pyjama
clad, we rushed on deck. To see what ? Where
was Taku ? All around a heaving, troubled waste
of muddy sea, bearing on its bosom the ponderous
shapes of warships British, French, Russian,
German, Austrian, Italian, Japanese. Close by,
a fleet of merchantmen flying the red ensign, the
horizontal stripes of the " Vaterland," or the red
ball on white ground of the marvellous little islands
that claim to be the England of tfie Far East.
Tugs and lighters were making for a German
transport, the decks of which were crowded with
soldiers. But of land not a sign. For the road-
stead of Taku is so shallow that no ship of any
considerable draught can approach the shore, and
we were then ten miles out from the coast.
Passengers and cargo must be taken ashore in
tugs and lighters. Only those who have seen the
place can appreciate the difficulties under which
the transport officers of the various armies laboured
in landing men, horses, guns, and the necessary
vast stores of every description. And Captain
Elderton, Royal Indian Marine, well deserved
the D.S.O. which rewarded him for the excellent
work he performed at the beginning of the
FROM WEI-HAI-WEI TO TIENTSIN 9
campaign ; when, having successfully conveyed
our expedition ashore, he was able to lend in-
valuable assistance to the troops of many of the
Allies.
The bar at the mouth of the Peiho River, which
flows into the sea at Taku, can only be crossed
at high tide ; so we were forced to remain on
board until the afternoon. Then, embarking on a
launch that had come out to meet us, we steamed
in to the land through a rough and tumbling sea.
As we drew near, the low-lying shore rose into
view. On each side of the entrance to the Peiho
ran long lines of solid earthworks the famous
Taku Forts. Taken in reverse and bombarded
by the gunboats lying in the river, gallantly
assaulted by landing parties from the Allied Fleets,
which, owing to the shallowness of the water, could
lend no other assistance, they fell after a desperate
struggle, and now from their ramparts flew the
flags of the conquering nations. Here paced an
Italian sentry, there a Russian soldier leaned
on a quick-firing Krupp gun ; for the forts were
armed with the most modern ordnance. The red
coat of a British marine or the white clothing of
a group of Japanese artillerymen lent a few specks
of bright colour to the dingy earthworks.
Close to the entrance of the Peiho stands a
tall stone building ; near it is the Taku Pilots'
Club, their houses, comfortable bungalows, close
at hand. Between flat, marshy shores the river
io THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
winds, its banks crowded with mud huts. Farther
up we passed a small dock, in which lay a gunboat
flying the Russian flag. Then more gunboats
American, French, and Japanese. A few miles
from the mouth of the river is Tong-ku, the
terminus of the Tientsin-Pekin Railway. At the
outset of the campaign all nationalities, except
the British, had chosen this for their landing-place
and established their depots here. As we steamed
past, we looked on a scene of restless activity.
Russian, French, German, and Italian soldiers
were busy disembarking stores and materiel from
the lighters alongside, loading railway trucks in
the temporary sidings, entraining horses and guns.
The English, more practical, had selected a landing-
place a few miles farther up, at Hsin-ho. Here
they found themselves in sole occupation, and the
confusion inevitable among so many different
nationalities was consequently absent. An ex-
cellent wharf had been built, large storehouses
erected, and a siding constructed from a temporary
station on the railway. Hsin-ho was our destina-
tion. Our launch stopped at the quay, alongside
which two shallow-draught steamers and a fleet
of lighters were lying. Men of the Coolie Corps
were hard at work ; close by stood a guard of
the stalwart Punjaub sepoys of the Hong Kong
Regiment. Overhead flew the Union Jack.
Our luggage was speedily disembarked. Most
of our fellow-passengers, learning that a train for
FROM WEI-HAI-WEI TO TIENTSIN n
Tientsin was due to leave almost at once, hurried
off to the railway station, about a mile away. Three
of us of the same regiment were met by a brother
officer who was in charge of a detachment at
Hsin-ho. He offered us the hospitality of the
station mess, composed of those employed on
various duties at the place ; and, desirous of seeing
how the work of the disembarkation of a large
force was carried out, we determined to remain
for the night.
We visited Tong-ku that afternoon, and found
a marked difference in the methods prevailing there
and at Hsin-ho. The presence of so many different
nationalities naturally entailed great confusion. At
the railway station a very babel of languages re-
sounded on every side.
One truck with German stores had to be de-
tached from a goods train and sent down one
siding ; the next, with French cavalry horses, sent
down another; a Russian and an Italian officer
disputed the ownership of a third. Lost baggage-
guards stood disconsolate or wandered round aim-
lessly until rescued by their transport officers.
Detachments of Continental troops stood helplessly
waiting for someone to conduct them to their
proper trains. Disorder reigned supreme.
At Hsin-ho everything proceeded without con-
fusion. It might have been an up-country station
in the heart of India. Comfortable huts had been
built for the detachment responsible for the guard
12 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
duties; and the various details were equally well
accommodated. The military officers had estab-
lished themselves in a stone house that had
formerly been the quarters of a railway engineer.
The Royal Indian Marine officers in charge of
the naval transport had settled down with the
readiness with which sailors adapt themselves to
shore life. A line of felt-roofed, mud huts had been
turned by them into an excellent mess and quarters.
A raised terrace looked down on a tennis-court,
on the far side of which a pond in the mud flats,
stretching away to the horizon, boasted a couple
of canoes. From a tall flagstaff that stood on
the terrace floated the blue ensign and Star of
India of their Service.
The railway siding ran past large and well-built
storehouses. On the river bank long lines of
mules were picketed, looking in excellent condition
despite the hard work they had gone through. In
a little cutting in the bank was an old and tiny
steam tug, which had been turned into a condenser
for drinking-water. Everything was trim and tidy.
The work of disembarking the stores from the
lighters in the river and putting them into the
railway trucks almost alongside went on in perfect
order, all in marked contrast to the confusion that
prevailed at Tong-ku.
Early next morning we were en route for Tient-
sin. My brother officers and I tramped down
through awful mud to the long platform which was
FROM WEI-HAI-WEI TO TIENTSIN 13
dignified by the title of "Hsin-ho Railway Station."
A small house close by sheltered the railway em-
ployees and the telegraph staff, signallers of the
Army Telegraph Department.
The train from the Tong-ku terminus soon
appeared, and as it steamed in presented a to
us novel appearance. Leaning out of the win-
dows was a motley crowd of many nationalities.
Out of one appeared the heads of a boyish Cossack
and a bearded Sikh. The next displayed the
chubby face of a German soldier beside the dark
features of an Italian sailor. When the train
stopped, a smart Australian bluejacket stepped out
of the brake-van. He was the guard. In the
corridor cars were Yagers, Austrian sailors, brawny
American soldiers, baggy-trousered Zouave and
red-breeched Chasseur d'Afrique. Sturdy little
Japanese infantrymen sat beside tall Bengal Lan-
cers. A small Frenchman chatted volubly with a
German trooper from the Lost Provinces. Smart
Tommy Atkins gazed in wondering disdain at the
smaller Continental soldiers, or listened with an
amused smile to the vitriolic comments of a Yankee
friend on the manners and appearance of "those
darned Dagoes." And among them, perfectly at
his ease, sat the imperturbable Chinaman, appar-
ently a little bored but otherwise quite uninterested
in the "foreign devils."
The first-class carriages were filled with the
officers of every nation whose flag now waved on
14 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Chinese soil. Russians in white coats with flat
caps and gold shoulder-straps sat side by side with
khaki-clad Britishers ; Italian officers in yellow ;
Frenchmen in every shade of supposed -to -be
khaki ; Germans with silver belts and sashes ;
Japanese with many medals and enamelled decora-
tions on their breasts. As we entered our carriage
we touched our helmets to the previous occupants
a salute which was punctiliously returned by every-
one present. Settling ourselves in our seats, our
interest was at first fully absorbed by the various
uniforms around us ; and it was some time before
we could devote our attention to the scenery
through which we were passing.
The train ran first over wide-stretching mud
flats, then through a level, monotonous country,
flooded or covered with high crops; and, barely seen
above the tall vegetation, here and there roofless
houses and ruined villages showed the track of
war. At every bridge and culvert stood a tent
with a guard of an Indian regiment, the sentry
presenting arms as the train passed. The stations
along the line were numerous. Over their stone
buildings floated the Union Jack, for the railway
was now in British hands. On each platform the
same scene presented itself. The English Staff
Officer in khaki and red-banded forage cap ; the
stalwart Indian sentry ; a varied mob of French
and German soldiers, Sikhs, Mussulmans, Chinese.
The fields of luxuriant, waving grain stretched
FROM WEI-HAI-WEI TO TIENTSIN 15
away to the rim of the distant horizon. A trail of
smoke, the tall masts of junks showed where the
river wound in frequent bends. At length we
passed the extensive buildings and high chimneys
of the Chinese Arsenal, captured by our marines
and held by the Russians ; and above the trees
towers and domes told that we were nearing
Tientsin. Then through a gap in a big earthen
wall that is twenty miles in circumference, past
many sidings and long lines of iron trucks and
waggons with bullet-marked sides, eloquent of fierce
fighting, we ran into the station.
A commonplace, uninteresting place at first sight
just the ordinary railway station with the usual
sheds, iron bridge, offices, refreshment-room. Yet
here, not long before, white men and yellow had
closed in deadly struggle, and the rails and plat-
forms had been dyed red with the blood of heroes.
The sides of the iron water-tank, the walls of the
engine-house, were patched and repaired ; for shells
from the most modern guns had rained on them for
days. The stone walls were loopholed and bullet-
splashed. Many of the buildings were roofless,
their shattered ruins attesting the accuracy of the
Chinese gunners. At yonder corner the fanatical
Boxers had burst in a wild night attack, and even
European soldiers had retreated before the fury of
their onslaught. But the men of the hitherto un-
tried Hong Kong Regiment, sturdy sons of the
Punjaub plains or Frontier hills, had swept down
i6
on them with the cold steel and bayoneted them
in and under the trucks ; until even Chinese
fanaticism could stand it no longer and the few
survivors fled in the friendly darkness. For that
brave exploit, the Subhedar Major of the corps
now wears the Star of the Indian Empire. From
the mud walls of that village, scarce two hundred
yards away, the European-drilled Imperial troops,
armed with the latest magazine rifles, had searched
with deadly aim every yard of open ground over
which the defenders advanced. Across this ditch
the Boxers, invincible in their mad belief, had
swarmed in the face of a murderous fire, and
filled it with their dead. Not a foot of ground in
that prosaic railway station but had its tale of
desperate fanaticism or disciplined valour
CHAPTER II
TIENTSIN
" I ^HE foreign settlement of Tientsin and the
JL Chinese city are entirely separate, and lie
some distance apart. The former, resembling more
a European town than an alien lodgment in the
heart of the Celestial Empire, boasts wide roads
and well-kept streets, large offices and lofty ware-
houses, good public buildings and comfortable
villas, a racecourse and a polo-ground. It is
divided into the Concessions of the various nation-
alities, of which the English, in size and mercantile
importance, is easily first. The difference between
it and the next largest the French is very
marked. The latter, though possessing a few good
streets, several hotels, and at least one long busi-
ness thoroughfare with fine shops, speaks all too
plainly of stagnation. The British quarter, bustling,
crowded, tells just as clearly of thriving trade. In
it are found most of the banks, the offices of the
more considerable merchants, and all the municipal
buildings.
The Chinese city, perhaps, has more charm for
the lover of the picturesque, though it is less in-
teresting now than formerly, since the formidable
c 17
i8 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
embrasured wall surrounding it has been pulled
flown by order of the Allied generals. In it stands
a grim memento of another outburst of fanaticism
against the hated foreigner the ruins of the Roman
Catholic Cathedral, destroyed by the Chinese in
1870. The city itself is like unto all other Celestial
cities. Narrow lanes, low houses, ill-kept thorough-
fares, gaudiness and dirt intermingled, stench and
filth abominable. To it, however, was wont to go
the seeker after curiosities, choice silks, or rich furs
from Manchuria and Corea. But the retributive
looting that fell on it after its capture has left it-
bare indeed.
On the platform of the railway station almost
the first friendly face we saw was that of perhaps
the best-known man in North China, Major Whittal,
Hyderabad Contingent Interpreter in Russian,
fluent in French and German, his linguistic abilities
had been responsible for his appointment to the
scarcely enviable post of Railway Staff Officer at
Tientsin. In a town that held the headquarters of
every foreign army, where troops and stores of all
kinds were despatched or arrived daily in charge
of representatives of the different forces, such a
position required the possession of a genius for
organisation and infinite tact and patience. Even
as we greeted him, French, Russian, or German
officers and soldiers crowded round, to harry him
with questions in divers tongues or propound
problems as to the departure of troop trains or
TIENTSIN 19
the disposal of waggons loaded with supplies for
their respective armies. The Britisher is usually
supposed to be the least versed of any in foreign
languages. But the Continental officers were very
much surprised to find how many linguists we
boasted in our expeditionary force. At every im-
portant railway station we had a staff officer who
was an interpreter in one or more European lan-
guages. There were many who had passed
examinations in Chinese. A French major re-
marked to me one day : " Voild, monsieur, we have
always thought that an Englishman knows no tongue
but his own. Yet we find but few of your officers
who cannot converse with us in ours. Not all well,
certainly ; but, on the other hand, how many of us
can talk with you in English ? Scarcely any. And
many of you speak Russian, German, or Italian."
It was not the only surprising fact they learned
about the hitherto despised Anglo-Indian army.
Leaving Major Whittal surrounded by a poly-
glot crowd, and handing over the luggage to our
sword orderlies, we seated ourselves in rickshas
and set out in search of quarters. The European
settlement is separated from the railway station by
the Peiho River. We crossed over a bridge of
boats, which swings aside to allow the passage of
vessels up or down. At either end stood a French
sentry, to stop the traffic when the bridge was about
to open. The stream was crowded with junks
loaded with stores for the various armies, and flying
20 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
the flag of the nation in whose service they were
employed. A steamer lay at a wharf an unusual
sight, for few ships of any draught can safely over-
come the difficulties of the shallow river. Along
the far bank ran a broad road, known as the Bund,
bordered with well-built warehouses and offices.
Some of these bore eloquent testimony to the
severity of the Chinese shell fire during the siege.
The Tricolour flew over the first houses we passed,
for the French Concession lies nearest the station.
At the gates of those buildings, used as barracks,
lounged men of the Infanterie Coloniale, clad in
loose white or blue uniforms, with large and clumsy
helmets. A few hundred yards farther down we
reached the English settlement, and turned up a
wide street, in which was situated the fine official
residence of the British Consul - General. We
arrived at last at the mess of the Hong Kong
Regiment, where two of us were to find quarters.
It stood in a narrow lane surrounded by houses
shattered by shells during the siege. Close by
were the messes of the Royal Welch Fusiliers and
the 3rd Bombay Light Cavalry in dark and gloomy
Chinese buildings.
In the afternoon we paid our first visit to the
Tientsin Club. It was crowded with representatives
of almost every nationality. Britishers, Americans,
French, Russians, and Austrians were clinking
glasses amid a chorus of " A votre sant ! " " Good
health ! " " Svatches dor6via ! " and " Here's how ! "
TIENTSIN 21
Even an occasional smart little Japanese officer was
to be seen. Naval uniforms were almost as much
in evidence as military garb ; for the officers of the
Allied Fleets lying off Taku varied the monotony
of riding at anchor, out of sight of the land, by
an occasional run ashore and a visit to Tientsin
and Pekin. The utmost good fellowship prevailed
among the different nationalities. French was the
usual medium of intercourse between Continental
officers and those of the English-speaking races.
Britishers might be seen labouring through the in-
tricacies of the irregular verbs which had vexed
their brains during schooldays, or lamenting their
neglect to keep up their early acquaintance with the
language of diplomacy and international courtesy.
The bond of a common tongue drew the Americans
and the English still more closely together, and
the greatest friendship existed between all ranks
of both nationalities. The heroic bravery of the
sailors and soldiers of the great Republic of the
West earned the praise and admiration of their
British comrades, who were justly proud of the
kinship that was more marked than ever during
those days when the Stars and Stripes flew side
by side with the Union Jack. The famous saying
of the American commodore, " Blood is stronger
than water," and the timely aid given by him to
our imperilled sailors in this same vexed land of
China, were green in our memory. The language
difficulty unfortunately prevented much intercourse
22 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
with the Japanese officers. Some of them, how-
ever, were acquainted with English, and these were
readily welcomed by British and Americans.
The club stands in the broad, tree-shaded Victoria
Road. Next to it is the Gordon Hall, a handsome
structure famous as the refuge of the women and
children during the bombardment. It contains a
theatre and a public library, and is the scene of
most of the festivities in Tientsin. Before its door
stands an object-lesson of the siege two small
guns of Seymour's gallant column flanked by enor-
mous shells captured from the Chinese. The two
tall towers were a conspicuous mark for the hostile
artillerymen, as was the even loftier German Club
facing it. Close by are the small but pretty Public
Gardens, where, in the afternoons, the bands of the
various regiments used to play. Nearer the French
Concession stands a large hotel, the Astor House;
its long verandah was the favourite resort of the
foreign officers. The groups in varied uniforms
sitting round the small marble tables gave it the
appearance of a Continental cafe an illusion not
dispelled by the courtesy which prevailed. As each
new-comer entered he saluted the company present,
who all rose and bowed in reply.
Behind the Victoria Road runs the famous, or
infamous, Taku Road, the scene of so many dis-
graceful brawls between the Allied troops. For
part of its length it is lined by commercial build-
ing's, but towards the French Concession were
'
TIENTSIN 23
many houses tenanted by the frail sisterhood. Their
presence attracted the worst characters among the
men of the various armies, and disorder was rife.
It culminated at length in a wanton attack on a
small patrol of the Royal Welch Fusiliers by a
drunken mob of Continental soldiers. A Japanese
guard close by turned out to the aid of their
English comrades, and, wasting no time in parley,
dropped at once on the knee to fire into the
aggressors. They were restrained with difficulty
by the corporal in charge of the British patrol, who
vainly endeavoured to pacify the mob. Forced
at length to use their rifles in self-defence, the
Fusiliers did so to some effect. Two soldiers
were killed, eight others wounded, and the
remainder fled. Naturally enough, great excite-
ment and indignation were aroused at first among
the troops to which these men belonged ; but it
died away when the truth was known. An inter-
national court of inquiry, having carefully investi-
gated the case, exonerated the corporal from all
blame and justified his action. Such unfortunate
occurrences were only to be expected among the
soldiers of so many mixed nationalities, and the
fact that they did not happen more frequently
spoke well for the general discipline. At the end
farthest from the French Concession the Taku
Road ran through a number of small cafes and
beer-saloons, much patronised by the German troops,
whose barracks lay close by.
24 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
The sights of the city and the foreign settlement
were soon exhausted. But one never tired of
watching the moving pictures of soldier life, or of
visiting the scenes of the deadly fighting memorable
for ever in the history of North China. The long
stretches of mud flats lying between the Chinese
town and the Concessions, over which shot and
shell had flown for weeks; the roofless villages; the
shattered houses; the loopholed and bullet-splashed
walls. There, during long days and anxious nights,
the usually pacific Chinaman, spurred on by fanatic
hate and lust of blood, had waged a bitter war
with all the devilish cunning of his race. There
the mad rushes of frenzied Boxers, reckless of
life, hurling themselves fearlessly with antiquated
weapons against a well - armed foe. There the
Imperial soldiers, trained by European officers,
showed that their instruction had borne fruit.
From every cover, natural or improvised, they
used their magazine rifles with accuracy and effect.
Lieutenant Fair, R.N., Flag- Lieutenant to Admiral
Seymour, told me that he has often watched them
picking up the range as carefully and judiciously
as a Boer marksman. And his Admiral, con-
spicuous in white uniform and dauntlessly exposing
himself on the defences, escaped death again and
again only by a miracle while men fell at his
side. Nor was the shooting of the Chinese
gunners to be despised. Lieutenant Hutchinson,
H.M.S. Terrible^ in a redoubt with two of his
TIENTSIN 25
ship's famous guns, engaged in a duel at three
thousand yards with a Chinese battery of modern
ordnance. Of six shells hurled at him, two struck
the parapet in front, two fell just past his redoubt,
and two almost within it. Fortunately none burst.
Had the mandarins responsible for the munitions
of war proved as true to their trust as the
gunners, the Terrible s detachment would have
been annihilated ; but when the ammunition
captured afterwards from the enemy was examined,
it was found that the bursting charges of the
shells had been removed and replaced by sand.
The corrupt officials had extracted the powder and
sold it. A naval "450 Maxim was most unpopular
in the defences. Its neighbourhood was too un-
safe, for whenever it opened fire the smoke be-
trayed it to the Chinese gunners, and shells at
once fell fast around it. It had finally to be
withdrawn.
But the desperate losses among the Boxers
opposed to Seymour's gallant column, the heavy
fighting around Tientsin, and the capture of the
city broke the back of the Chinese resistance.
And when the Allied Army advanced on Pekin,
no determined stand was made after the first battle.
The capital, with its famous and formidable walls,
fell almost without a blow. A sore disappointment
to the British Siege Train, who, hurried out to
South Africa to batter down the forts of Pretoria,
found their services uncalled for there ; and then,
26 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
despatched to China for the siege of Pekin,
arrived to learn that there, too, they were not
needed.
The interest of the Foreign Settlement lay in
the crowds that thronged its streets. Never since
the occupation of Paris after Napoleon's downfall
has any city presented such a kaleidoscopic picture
of varied uniforms and mixed troops of many
nations. I know few things more interesting than
to sit for an hour on the Astor House verandah
and watch the living stream. Rickshas go by
bearing officers of every army, punctiliously saluting
all other wearers of epaulettes they pass. An
Indian tonga bumps along behind two sturdy little
ponies. After it rumbles a Russian transport cart,
driven by a white - bloused Cossack. A heavy
German waggon pulls aside to make way for a
carriage containing two Prussian officers of high
rank. A few small Japanese mounted infantrymen
trot by, looking far more in keeping with the
diminutive Chinese ponies than do the tall
Punjaubis who follow them. Behind them are a
couple of swarthy Bombay Lancers on well-
groomed horses, gazing with all a cavalryman's
disdain at the "Mounted Foot" in front of them.
And surely never was trooper of any army so
picturesque as the Indian sowar. A guard of
stolid German soldiers tramps by. A squad of
sturdy Japanese infantry passes a detachment
of heavily accoutred French troops swinging along
TIENTSIN 27
with short, rapid strides. And at each street corner
and crossing, directing the traffic, calm and im-
perturbable, stands the man who has made England
what she is the British private. All honour to
him ! Smart, trim, well set-up, he looks a monarch
among soldiers, compared with the men of other
more military countries. Never have I felt so
proud of Tommy Atkins as when I saw him
there contrasted with the pick of the Continental
armies ; for all the corps that had been sent
out from Europe had been specially selected to
do credit to their nations. He was merely one
of a regiment that had chanced to be garrison-
ing England's farthest dependency in the East,
or of a battery taken at random. In physique,
appearance, and soldierly bearing he equalled
them all. Even his cousin, the American, sturdy
and stalwart as he is, could not excel him in
smartness, though not behind him in courage or
coolness in action. The British officer, however,
in plain khaki with no adornments of rank, looked
almost dowdy beside the white coats and gold
shoulder-straps of the Russian or the silver belts
and sashes of the German. But gay trappings
nowadays are sadly out of place in warfare.
And though within a few miles the broken
Chinese braves and routed Boxers, formed into
roving bands of robbers, swooped down upon de-
fenceless villages, and heavily accoutred European
soldiers trudged wearily and fruitlessly after them
28 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
over impossible country, life in Tientsin flowed on
unheeding in all the gay tranquillity of ordinary
garrison existence. Entertainments in the Gordon
Hall, convivial dinners, polo, races, went on as
though the demon of war had been exorcised
from the unhappy land. Yet grim reminders were
not wanting ; scarcely a day passed without seeing
a few miserable prisoners brought in from the
districts round. Poor wretches ! Many of them
were villagers who had been driven into brigandage
by the burning of their houses and the ruin of their
fields as the avenging armies passed. Some were
but the victims of treacherous informers, who, to
gain a poor reward or gratify a petty spite, de-
nounced the innocent. And, with pigtails tied
together, cuffed and hustled by their pitiless captors,
they trudged on to their doom with the vague stare
of poor beasts led to the slaughter. A hurried
trial, of which they comprehended nothing, then
death. Scarce knowing what was happening, each
unhappy wretch was led forth to die. Around him
stood the fierce white soldiers he had learned to
dread. Cruel men of his own race bound his arms,
flung him on his knees, and pulled his queue for-
ward to extend his neck. The executioner, too
often a pitiful bungler, raised his sword. The
stroke fell ; the head leapt from the body ; the
trunk swayed for an instant, then collapsed on the
ground.
Yet for many of them such a death was all too
PUBLIC GARDENS AND GORDON HALL IN THE VICTORIA ROAD,
ENGLISH CONCESSION
EXECUTION OF A BOXER BY THE FRENCH
{page 28
TIENTSIN 29
merciful. No race on earth is capable of such
awful cruelty, such hellish devices of torture, as the
Chinese. And the unfortunate missionaries, the
luckless wounded soldiers who fell into their hands,
experienced treatment before which the worst devil-
tries of the Red Indian seemed humane. Occasion-
ally some of these fiends were captured by the
Allies ; often only the instruments, but sometimes
the instigators of the terrible outrages on Euro-
peans, the mandarins who had spurred on the
maddened Boxers to their worst excesses. For
these no fitting punishment could be devised, and
a swift death was too kind. But in the latter days
of the campaign too many suffered an unmerited
fate. The blood heated by the tales of Chinese
cruelty at the outbreak of the troubles did not
cool rapidly. The murders of the missionaries and
civil engineers, of the unhappy European women and
children, could not be readily forgotten. The seed
sown in those early days of the fanatical outburst
bore a bitter fruit. The horrors that war inevitably
brings in its train were aggravated by the memory
of former treachery and the difficulty of distinguish-
ing between the innocent and the guilty. A very
slight alteration of dress sufficed to convert into a
harmless peasant the Boxer whose hands were red
with the blood of defenceless Europeans, or of
Chinese Christians whose mangled bodies had
choked the river.
The echoes of a greater struggle at the other
30 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
side of the globe filled the ears of the world when
the defenders of Tientsin were holding fanatical
hordes of besiegers at bay. And so, few in Europe
realised the deadliness of the fighting around the
little town where hundreds of white women and
children huddled together in terror of a fate too
dreadful for words. The gallant sailors and marines
who guarded it knew that on them alone depended
the lives and honour of these helpless ones. Day
and night they fought a fight, the like of which
has scarcely been known since the defenders of
the Residency at Lucknow kept the flag flying
in similar straits against a not more savage foe.
Outmatched in armament, they opposed small,
almost out-of-date guns to quick-firing and large-
calibre Krupps of the latest pattern. Outnumbered,
stricken by disease, assailed by fierce hordes with-
out and threatened by traitors within, they held
their own with a heroism that has never gained
the meed of praise it deserved. From the walls
of the Chinese city, a few thousand yards away,
and from the ample cover across the narrow river,
shells rained on the unprotected town, and its
streets were swept by close-range rifle fire. All
national rivalries forgotten, Americans, Russians,
British, French, Germans, and Japanese fought
shoulder to shoulder against a common foe.
Admiral Seymour's heroic column, baffled in its
gallant dash on Pekin, and battling savagely
against overwhelming numbers, fell slowly back
TIENTSIN 31
on the beleaguered town. The Hsi-ku Arsenal, a
few miles from Tientsin, barred the way, guarded
by a strong and well-armed force of Imperial
soldiers. The desperate sailors nerved themselves
for a last supreme effort. Under a terrible fire the
British marines, under Major Johnstone, R.M.L.I.,
flung themselves on the defences and drove out
the enemy with the bayonet. Then, utterly ex-
hausted, its ammunition almost spent, the starving
column halted in the Arsenal, unable to break
through the environing hordes of besiegers who
lay between it and Tientsin. A gallant attempt
made by two companies of our marines to cut
their way through was repulsed with heavy loss.
The Chinese made several attempts to retake the
Arsenal. A welcome reinforcement of close on
two thousand Russian troops from Port Arthur
had enabled the besieged garrison of Tientsin to
hold out. A relieving force was sent out to bring
in the decimated column, utterly prostrated by the
incessant fighting. An eye-witness of their return,
Mr. Drummond, Chinese Imperial Customs, who
fought with the Tientsin Volunteers throughout
the siege, told me that the condition of Seymour's
men was pitiable in the extreme. Worn out and
weak, shattered by the terrible trials they had
undergone, they had almost to be supported into
the town. For sixteen days and nights they had
been battling continuously against a well-armed
and enterprising foe. Their provisions had run
32 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
out, and they had been forced to sustain life on
the foul water of the river, which was filled with
corpses, and on stray ponies and mules captured
by the way. Out of 1,945 men they had 295
casualties. As soon as the sailors and marines of
the returned column were somewhat recovered from
their exhaustion, the Allied Forces moved out to
attack the native city of Tientsin, which was sur-
rounded by a strong and high wall, and defended
by over sixty guns, most of them very modern
ordnance. Covered by a terrific bombardment from
the naval guns, which had come up from the war-
ships at Taku, the little army, 5,000 strong, hurled
itself on the doomed city. But so fierce was the
Chinese defence that for a day and a night it
could barely hold its own. But before sunrise the
Japanese sappers blew open the city gate, under
a heavy fire. The Allies poured in through the
way thus opened to them, and the surviving de-
fenders fled, having lost 5,000 killed and wounded.
The Allies themselves, out of a total force of 5,000,
had nearly 800 casualties. The enemy's stronghold
captured, the siege of the European settlements
was raised after a month of terrible stress.
Between the railway station and the river lies a
small stretch of waste ground, a few hundred yards
in extent. Here arose the famous " Railway Siding
incident." The Russians claimed it as theirs "by
right of conquest," although it had always been
recognised as the property of the railway company.
TIENTSIN 33
An attempt to construct a siding on it from the
station brought matters to a crisis. A Russian
guard was promptly mounted on it, and confronted
by a detachment of Indian troops under the com-
mand of Lieutenant H. E. Rudkin, 2Oth Bombay
Infantry. The situation in which this young subal-
tern was placed demanded a display of tact and
firmness which might well have overtaxed the
resources of an older man. But with the self-
reliance which the Indian Army teaches its officers
he acquitted himself most creditably in a very
trying position. Then ensued a period of anxious
suspense when no man knew what the morrow
might bring forth. But calm counsels fortunately
prevailed. These few yards of waste ground were
not judged worth " the bones of a single grenadier,"
and the question was taken from the hands of the
soldier and entrusted to the diplomat.
CHAPTER III
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA
r I "O a soldier no city in the world could prove as
-L interesting as Tientsin from the unequalled
opportunity it presented of contrasting the men
and methods of the Allied Armies. And the
officers of the Anglo-Indian forces saw with
pride that they had but little to learn from their
Continental brothers - in - arms. In organisation,
training, and equipment our Indian Army was
unsurpassed. Clad in the triple-proof armour of
self-satisfaction, the soldiers of Europe have rested
content in the methods of 1870. The effects
of the increased range and destructive power of
modern weapons have not been appreciated by
them. Close formations are still the rule, and
the history of the first few battles in the next
European war will be a record of terrible slaughter.
The lessons of the Boer campaign are ignored.
They ascribe the failures and defeats of the British
forces to the defective training and want of morale
of our troops, and disdain to learn from a " nation
of farmers."
The world has long believed that the German
34
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 35
Army is in every respect superior to all others.
But those who saw its China expeditionary force
composed though it was of picked troops and
carefully selected officers will not agree with this
verdict. Arriving too late for the serious fighting
for there were no German troops in the Allied
Army which relieved the Legations it could only
be criticised from its behaviour in garrison and
on a few columns which did not meet with very
serious opposition. All nationalities had looked
forward eagerly to the opportunity of closely observ-
ing a portion of the army which has set the fashion
in things military to Europe during the past thirty
years. But I think that most of those who had
hoped to learn from it were disappointed.
The German authorities are still faithful to the
traditions of close formations and centralisation of
command under fire. Unbroken lines in the attack
are the rule, and no divergence from the straight,
forward direction, in order to take advantage of
cover lying towards a flank, is authorised. The
increased destructive power given by low trajectory
to modern firearms does not seem to be properly
understood by them. The creeping forward of
widely extended and irregularly advancing lines
of skirmishers, seizing every cover available within
easy reach, is not favoured ; and the dread of the
effect of cavalry charges on the flanks of such
scattered formations still rules the tactics of the
attack. The development of the initiative of the
3 6 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
soldier, of his power of acting for himself under
fire, is not striven after. In steady, mechanical
drill the German private is still pre-eminent, but
in wide extensions he is helpless without some-
one at his elbow to give him orders. One of
the Prussian General Staff sent out as a Special
Service Officer argued seriously with me that
even when advancing over open ground against
an entrenched enemy armed with modern rifles, it
would be impossible to extend to more than an
interval of one pace, "as otherwise the- captain
could not command his company."
Those in high places in Germany probably
appreciate the lessons of the South African cam-
paign. But the difficulty of frontal assaults in
close formations on a well-defended position, the
impossibility of battalion or company commanders
directing the attack in the firing line at close ranges,
the necessity of training men to act for themselves
when near the enemy, have not struck home to the
subordinate grades. Viewed in the light of our
experiences in the Boer War and on the Indian
Frontier, their adherence to systems that we have
proved disastrous before modern weapons stamps
their tactics as antiquated. " Entrenching," another
staff officer said to me, is contrary to the spirit
of the German Army. Our regulations now force
us to employ the spade, but our tradition will
always be to trust to the bayonet." And I thought
of another army, which also used to have a decided
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 37
liking for the same weapon, and which had gone
to South Africa in the firm belief that cold steel
was the only weapon for use in war !
The German officers were very smart in their
bearing and dress. Their khaki uniforms were
similar to ours, the coats well made; but the clumsy
cut of their riding breeches offends the fastidious
eyes of the horsey Britisher, who is generally more
particular about the fit of this garment than any other
in his wardrobe. The product of despotic militarism
in a land where the army is supreme and the civilian
is despised, the German officers are full of the pride
of caste. In China they were scarcely inclined to
regard those of the other allied troops as equals.
The iron discipline of their army does not encour-
age intercourse between the various ranks. The
friendly association of English officers with their
men in sports is inexplicable to them ; and that a
private should excel his superior in any pastime is
equivalent, in their opinion, to the latter at once
forfeiting the respect of his subordinate. When a
team of British officers in Tientsin were training
for a tug-of-war against those of the Pekin garrison
in the assault-at-arms at the Temple of Heaven,
they used to practise with a team of heavy non-
commissioned officers. A German captain said to
a British subaltern who was taking part :
"Is it possible that you allow your soldiers to
compete against officers even in practice ? "
" Certainly," replied the Englishman.
38 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
" But of course you always beat them ? "
" Not at all," was the answer. " On the contrary,
they generally beat us."
" But surely that is a mistake," said the scandalised
Prussian. "They must in that case inevitably lose
all respect for you." And nothing could convince
him that it was not so.
As the German military officer does not as a rule
travel much abroad, the realisation of England's
predominance beyond the seas seemed to come on
those in China almost as a surprise. One remarked
to a member of the staff of our Fourth Brigade :
" Our voyage out here has brought home to most
of us for the first time how you English have laid
your hands on all parts of the earth worth having.
In every port we touched at since we left Germany,
everywhere we coaled, we found your flag flying.
Gibraltar, Malta, Aden, Colombo, Singapore, Hong
Kong all British."
" Yes," added another, " we have naturally been
accustomed to regard our own country as the
greatest in the world. But outside it we found
our language useless. Yours is universal. I had
said to myself that Port Said, at least, is not British ;
but there, too, your tongue is the chief medium of
intercourse. Here in China, even the coolies speak
English, or what they intend to be English."
The German organisation perfect, perhaps, for
Europe, where each country is a network of roads
and railways was not so successful in China. For
FRENCH COLONIAL INFANTRY MARCHING THROUGH THE
FRENCH CONCESSION, TIENTSIN
GERMAN OFFICERS WELCOMING FIELD-MARSHAL COUNT VON WALDERSEE
AT THE RAILWAY STATION, TIENTSIN
38
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 39
the first time the leading military nation was brought
face to face with the difficulties involved in the
despatch of an expedition across the sea and far
from the home base. And its mistakes were not
few. Their contingent found themselves at first
devoid of transport and dependent on the kindness
of the other armies for means to move from the
railway. One projected expedition had to be long
delayed because the German troops could not
advance for this reason, until the English at
length furnished them with the necessary trans-
port. The enormous waggons they brought with
them were useless in a country where barrows are
generally the only form of wheeled transport
possible on the very narrow roads. Their know-
ledge of horse-mastership was not impressive, their
animals always looking badly kept and ill-fed.
The first German troops despatched to China
were curiously clothed. Their uniform consisted
of ill-fitting tunics and trousers made of what
looked like coarse, bright yellow sacking, with
black leather belts and straw hats shaped like
those worn by our Colonials, the broad brim caught
up on one side and fastened by a metal rosette
of the German colours. Later on all were clothed
in regular khaki, and wore helmets somewhat
similar to the British pattern, but with wider
brims. The square portion covering the back of
the neck was fastened by hinges, so that the
helmet was not tilted over the wearer's eyes when
40 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
he lay down to fire, which is the great disadvantage
of our style of headgear. Some of the officers
wore silver sashes and belts which looked out of
place on khaki, the embodiment of severe simplicity
in campaigning dress.
The physique of the German soldiers was very
good, but they were members of a comparatively
small contingent picked from an enormous army.
To those used to the smart and upright bearing of
the British private their careless and slouching gait
seemed slovenly. But on parade they moved like
automatons. A curious phase in the relations of
the Allies was the intimacy which prevailed between
the men of the French and German troops. In the
French Concession numbers of them were to be
constantly seen fraternising together, strolling arm-
in-arm in the streets, or drinking in the cafes. This
was chiefly owing to the fact that many in either
army could speak the language of the other. But
this intimacy did not extend to the commissioned
ranks.
The vast increase in their mercantile marine of
late years enabled the Germans to transport their
troops in their own vessels. The Russians, on the
other hand, were frequently forced to employ British
ships, although the bulk of their forces in North
China did not come from Europe by sea, but was
furnished by the Siberian Army.
The German Navy took a prominent part in the
China imbroglio. The Iltis was well to the fore
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 41
in the bombardment of the Taku forts by the gun-
boats in the Peiho. In the assault by the storming
parties from the Allied Fleet 130 German sailors
shared, and lost 6 killed and 1 5 wounded ; 200
more accompanied Seymour's column on the ad-
vance to Pekin. The Navy of the Fatherland
possesses the immense advantage of being very
modern and homogeneous, and is consequently
quite up to date. Even at its present strength it
is a formidable fighting machine. If the Kaiser's
plans are realised, and it is increased to the size he
aims at, Germany will play a prominent role in any
future naval complications.
English officers are frequently accused of a lack
of interest in their profession from not acquainting
themselves with the problems which arise in con-
temporary campaigns, the course of which many
persons believe that they do not follow. But we
found a singular want of knowledge of the history
and events of the South African campaign among
the commissioned grades of the Allied Armies.
I understood the crass ignorance of Continental
peoples with regard to the Boer War after a con-
versation with a foreign staff officer. I had asked
him what he thought had been the probable strength
of the Republican forces at the beginning of the
campaign.
"Ah, that I know precisely," he replied. "I
have heard it from an officer in our army, now
in China, who served with the Boers. I can state
42 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
positively on his authority that your antagonists
were never able to put into the field, either at the
beginning of the war or at any other time, more
than 30,000 men. The total populations of both
States could not produce any greater number
capable of carrying a rifle."
"And how many do you think they have in the
field now ?" I asked. This was in August, 1901.
" About 25,000."
''But surely," I argued, "after nearly two years
of fighting their losses must amount to more than
5,000 between killed, wounded, and captured."
" Not at all. Perhaps not even that."
"Then you apparently do not know," I said,
" that we have about 30,000 or 40,000 prisoners
or surrendered men in St. Helena, South Africa,
Ceylon, and India."
" Oh, but you have not," he said, with a politely
incredulous smile ; " two or three thousand at most.
In our army we are not ignorant of the course of
the campaign. We read our newspapers carefully."
I ceased to wonder at the ignorance of his
nation when he, a Staff and Special Service Officer,
was so ill-informed.
The French Army in China suffered some loss of
prestige in the beginning through their first contin-
gent, composed of Infanterie Coloniale and others
sent up from I* Indo-Chine. Long service in un-
healthy tropical climates had rendered the men
debilitated and fever-stricken. They were by no
43
means fair samples of the French soldier, and
certainly not up to the standard of the troops which
came out later from France. The Zouaves and
Chasseurs d'Afrique, particularly, were excellent.
Both are crack corps, and were much admired,
the physique of the men being very good. The
latter were fine specimens of European cavalry,
good riders, well mounted ; but their horses seemed
too heavily weighted, especially for service in hot
climates.
The infantry were weighed down by an extra-
ordinarily heavy pack, which they carried on nearly
all duties mounting guard, marching, even in
garrison. They were trained in the same obsolete
close formations as the Germans ; but, with the
traditional aptitude for loose fighting which dates
from the days of Napoleon's tirailleurs, they can
adapt themselves much more rapidly to extended
order.
The French officers, though not so well turned
out as the Germans, were much more friendly and
agreeable. There was a good deal of intercourse
between them and the Britishers. Their manner
of maintaining discipline was very different to our
ideas on the subject. I have seen one of them
box the ears of his drunken orderly who had
assaulted the Indian servant of an English officer,
and who, considering himself aggrieved at being
reprimanded by his master, had staggered up to
him to tell him so.
44 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
The training and organisation of the French
Army has immensely improved since the disastrous
campaign of 1870. A soldier serves first in the
Active Army, then in the Reserve of the Active
Army, where he is called up for training somewhat
on the lines of our Militia. He is then passed
into the Territorial Army, where he is not allowed
to forget what he has learned with the colours.
Finally he is enrolled in the Reserve of the Terri-
torial Army, and is still liable to be summoned to
defend his country in emergency. A regiment has
all its equipment and stores in its own keeping ;
so that, when suddenly ordered on active service,
there is no rush to indent upon the Commissariat
or Ordnance Departments. Its reservists join at
regimental headquarters, where they find every-
thing ready for them, and take their places as
though they had never quitted the colours. In
marching powers, at least, no troops in Europe
surpass the French ; and legs are almost as useful
as arms in modern warfare, where wide flanking
dttours and extended movements will be the rule
in future.
France's long experience of colonies and wars
beyond the sea rendered the organisation and fitting
out of her expeditionary force an easier task than
some other nations found it. The men were always
cheerful ; and the French soldier is particularly handy
at bivouacking and fending for himself on service.
The Russian troops were composed of big,
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 45
heavy, rather fleshy men. Unintelligent and slow,
for the most part, they were determined fighters,
but seemed devoid of the power of initiative or
of thinking for themselves. I doubt if the Mus-
covite soldier is much more advanced than his
Crimean predecessor. The men of the Siberian
army may be best described as cheerful savages,
obedient under an iron discipline, but not averse
to excesses when not under the stern hand of
authority, especially when their blood has been
heated by fighting. The great power of the
Russian soldier lies in his wonderful endurance
under privations that few other European troops
could support. I should be sorry to offer English-
men the meagre fare on which he manages to exist.
His commissariat rations were anything but lavish
in China, and had to be supplemented by the
men themselves by foraging. Yet those whom I
saw in North China and Manchuria looked well fed
and almost fat.
Their respect for, and faith in, their officers is
admirable. Their religion is a living force to their
simple natures. Once, in Newchwang, in Manchuria,
I passed a small Russian church in which a number
of their troops were attending a Mass of the
gorgeous Greek ritual. Their rifles were piled
outside under the charge of a sentry. Helmet in
hand he was devoutly following the service through
the open window, crossing himself repeatedly and
joining in the prayers of the congregation inside.
46 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
I am afraid that such a sight would be very rarely
seen at a church parade in our army.
Of the courage of the Russians there can be no
doubt. Their behaviour during the stern fighting
around Tientsin was admirable. The European
settlements owed their preservation largely to the
timely reinforcements which arrived from Port
Arthur at a time of deadly peril. When Admiral
Seymour started on his desperate attempt to relieve
the Legations, he left behind at Tientsin a small
number of British sailors and marines under Cap-
tain Bayly, H.M.S. Aurora, with orders to hold the
town, so that his column, if defeated, might have
some place to fall back on. When, after his depar-
ture, the Concessions were suddenly assailed, the
commanding officers of the other Allies were of
opinion that the defence of the settlements was
hopeless, and advocated a retirement on Taku.
Captain Bayly pointed out the peril to which the
Relieving Column would be exposed if repulsed
and forced to fall back only to find Tientsin in the
hands of the Chinese. His remonstrances had no
effect. Then the dauntless sailor, with true British
grit, declared that the others might go if they
wished. He had been ordered to remain in Tient-
sin, and remain he would. He would not desert
his admiral even if left alone to hold the town
with his handful of Britishers. I have it on his own
authority that the Russian commander was the first
to applaud his resolution and declare that he and
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 47
his men would stay with the English to the end.
His action turned the scale, and all remained to
defend Tientsin and save Seymour's gallant but
unfortunate column.
Though the Russian officers exceed even the
Germans in the severity with which they treat
their men, there is, nevertheless, more of a spirit
of comradeship existing between the higher and
lower ranks. This is truer, perhaps, of the Euro-
pean army than the Siberian, which was more
employed in the China campaign, and is inferior
to the former, especially the splendid Guards corps.
The officers were fine men physically, but seemed
in military training rather behind those of the other
Allies.
Profiting by the experience gained in their
previous campaign against China, the Japanese
Army arrived well equipped in 1900. As long as
road or river was available, their transport system
of carts and boats was excellent ; but when it came
to flying columns moving across country the Indian
mule train was superior. Beginning the war in
white uniform, the disadvantages of such a con-
spicuous dress were soon evident, and khaki was
substituted. The men were well clothed, and
carried a horsehide knapsack containing the usual
necessaries and an extra pair of boots.
The cavalry, consisting as it does of small men
on undersized animals, would be of little use in
shock tactics. It would be far more useful con-
48 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
verted into mounted infantry, for their infantry
earned nothing but praise. Small, sturdy, easily
fed, and capable of enduring an extraordinary
amount of hardship, they were ideal foot soldiers.
Recruited among an agricultural population, in-
habitants of a mountainous country, they were
inured to toil and fatigue. Under a load that few
white men could carry they tramped long distances,
arriving at the end of the march apparently not
in the least exhausted. Their racial respect for
superiors has bred a perfect spirit of unquestioning
discipline. Their high patriotism and almost
fanatical courage endow them with an absolute
contempt of death, and their heroic bravery ex-
torted the admiration even of such unfriendly
critics as the Russians. Trained in German
methods, their army suffers from all the defects
of the hide-bound Teutonic system. In the attack
on some fortified villages held by banditti, after
Major Browning's death in a preliminary skirmish,
two Japanese companies advanced in line with the
4th Punjaub Infantry. Under a fierce fire from
4,000 brigands, armed with Mannlichers and en-
sconced behind walls, the Indian troops extended
to ten or twelve paces. The Japanese came on in
single rank, almost shoulder to shoulder. They
lost four times as many as the Punjaubis, but never
wavered for an instant, closing in mechanically as
their comrades fell, and almost outstripping our
sepoys in the final charge that carried the position.
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 49
Though many of their officers have realised that
the day of close formations is past, they have not
sufficient confidence in the ability of their men to
fight independently yet ; while they know that no
amount of slaughter will dismay them in an attack.
Besides, in China they were anxious to blood them
well and to show to their European critics the
splendid fighting quality of their soldiers, and
prove that they were worthy to combat with or
against any troops in the world.
The organisation, equipment, and material of the
Japanese Army leave little to be desired. Their
engineers and artillery are well trained, and both
rendered good service to the Allies in 1900. Their
Intelligence Department had been brought to a
high standard of efficiency ; and its perfection
astonishes those who are permitted to gain a
glimpse of its working. The whole East is sown
with its spies. When the Legations were threatened,
Japanese who had been working at inferior trades
in Pekin came in and revealed themselves as military
officers who for months or years had been acquaint-
ing themselves with the plans, the methods, and the
strength of China.
The discipline of Japanese soldiers in small
things as well as great is admirable. I have often
watched crowded troop-trains arriving at the Shim-
bashi railway terminus in Tokio. The men sat
quietly in their places until the order to leave the
carriages was given. Then, without noise or con-
50 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
fusion, they got out, fell in on the platforms, piled
arms, fell out, and remained near their rifles without
chattering ; indeed, with hardly a word except in an
undertone. Prompt and unquestioning obedience
in everything is the motto of the Japanese soldier.
Their courage at the storming of Tientsin city, on
the march to the capital, and at the capture of Pekin
won the admiration of all the Allies, and their
behaviour and self-restraint in the hour of victory
were equalled only by their gallantry in action.
No charges of cruelty to inoffensive peasants or
women and children could be substantiated against
them; and they treated the conquered Chinese with
great kindness. They employed their prisoners to
work for them and paid them liberally for their
labour. Their conduct in garrison was admirable.
Well armed and equipped, well officered and led, the
Japanese Army is now a powerful fighting machine,
and would prove a formidable enemy or a useful
ally in the field.
Throughout the campaign a remarkable spirit of
comradeship existed between the Japanese and the
Indian troops. The Gurkhas were their especial
friends. So like in appearance that it points to
a common ancestry in the past, they hailed each
other as relatives, and seemed quite puzzled to find
no resemblance in the languages. This did not
seem to slacken their friendship; and it was
amusing to see a mingled group of the two races
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 51
chatting together in an animated manner, neither
understanding a word of the other's tongue.
The men of the American Army were equalled
in physique only by the Australian Contingent
and our Royal Horse Artillery. Their free-and-
easy ideas on the subject of discipline, the casual
manner in which a private addressed an officer,
astonished and shocked their Continental critics.
I heard the remark of a German officer who,
after a slight acquaintance with their ways, ex-
claimed, " That an army ? Why, with the Berlin
Fire Brigade I would conquer the whole of
America ! " The speech was so typically German !
But the men, accustomed to think and act for
themselves, were ideal individual fighters ; and for
scouting, skirmishing, and bush-whacking could not
easily be surpassed. Their troops in China con-
sisted at first mainly of marines and regiments
diverted when on their way to the Philippines, and
consequently were not well equipped for a long
campaign. But soon after the outset of the expe-
dition all deficiencies were made good and ample
supplies were forthcoming, their hospitals especially
being almost lavishly furnished with all requirements.
The new American Army, like their excellent go-
ahead Navy, is a force to be reckoned with in the
future. We hear much of the effects of " influence"
in our army. It is nothing compared to what goes
on in the American. With them to be the near
connection of a Senator or a prominent politician
52 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
is infinitely more advantageous than to be the scion
of a ducal line or the son of a Commander-in-Chief
with us.
If the Continental troops suffer from too rigid a
discipline, which destroys the power of thinking for
themselves in the lower ranks, the Americans, per-
haps, err on the other side. They are too ready
to act on their own responsibility, to question the
wisdom of the orders they receive, and act, instead,
as seems best to themselves. This was particularly
evident in the case of the volunteer regiments in
the Philippines ; but instances of it were not want-
ing among the regulars and marines in North
China. Democracy is impossible in an army. But
the material at the service of the United States is
unquestionably magnificent ; and when the pressure
of events in the future has called into being and
welded together a really large army in America,
there are few nations that can hope to oppose it
successfully in the field. How rapidly the sons of
the Star-spangled Banner acquire the art of war
was evidenced in Cuba and in the more difficult
and trying guerilla campaign in the Philippines.
Their faults were those of inexperience.
Of their courage there can be no doubt. At the
taking of Tientsin city nearly a thousand American
infantry and marines served with the British under
General Dorward. In a letter to their commander
this officer warmly expressed the honour he, in
common with all his men, felt in serving alongside
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 53
the American troops. In his own words, "they
formed part of the front line of the British attack,
and so had more than their fair share of the righting.
The ready and willing spirit of both officers and
men, their steady gallantry and power of holding on
to exposed positions, made them soldiers of the
highest class." What greater praise could be given
them ? And well they deserved it ! Two companies
of the Qth Infantry (U.S.A.), attacked in front and
flank by a merciless fire, held gallantly to their
ground until nightfall with a loss of half their
number in killed and wounded, including their
brave leader, Colonel Liscum, who met a hero's
death at the head of his men. In all the actions
of the campaign the American troops distinguished
themselves by conspicuous bravery; and the British
recognised with pride and pleasure the gallantry of
their cousins. May we always fight shoulder to
shoulder with, but never against, them !
Great camaraderie existed between the Ameri-
cans and the English troops. The sons of the
Stars and Stripes amply repaid the disdain of the
Continental officers with a contempt that was almost
laughable. They classified the Allies as white men
and " Dagoes." The former were the Americans
and the British, the latter the other European con-
tingents. They distinguished between them though,
and the terms " Froggie Dago," " Sauerkraut
Dago," "Macaroni Dago," and "Vodki Dago"
54
left little doubt in the hearer's mind as to which
nationality was meant.
I heard a good story of an encounter between a
young English subaltern and an American in North
China. I fancy the same tale is told of a Colonial
in South Africa ; but it is good enough to bear
repetition. The very youthful Britisher, chancing
to pass a Yankee soldier who was sitting down and
made no motion to rise, considered himself affronted
at the private's failure to salute him. He turned
back indignantly and addressed the offender.
" Look here, my man, do you know who I am ? "
" No o o," drawled the American.
"Well, I'm a British officer."
" Air ye naow ? " was the reply. " Waal, sonny,
you've got a soft job. See you don't get drunk
and lose it."
The subaltern walked on.
Of the Italian Expeditionary Force, which was
not numerically very strong, I saw little ; but all
spoke well of them. The famous Bersagliere, the
cocks' plumes fluttering gaily in their tropical
helmets, were smart, sturdy soldiers.
I regret never having had an opportunity of
seeing the contingent which Holland, not to be
outdone by the other European Powers, despatched
to the East. This nation was also determined to
show its power to the world. So a Dutch Expe-
ditionary Corps was equipped and sent out. It
consisted of a sergeant and ten men.
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 55
The Indian Field Force was a revelation to
Europe. Friend and foe realised for the first time
that in the Indian army England has a reserve of
immense value. While our Continental rivals
fancied that our hands were tied by the South
African war, and that we could take no part in the
Chinese complication, they were startled to see
how, without moving a soldier from Great Britain,
we could put into the field in the farthest quarter
of the globe a force equal to any and superior to
most. It was mobilised and despatched speedily
and without a hitch. The vessels for its transport
were all available from the lines that ply from
Calcutta and Bombay, and no ship was needed
from England. The bluejackets and marines with
half a battalion of the Royal Welch Fusiliers,
already on the spot, and two batteries with some
Engineers were all the white troops we had until
gallant Australia sent her splendid little contingent
as an earnest of what she could and would do if
required.
Previous to the expedition of 1900, the Indian
army was never allowed to engage in war without
a strong backing of British troops. And even its
own officers scarcely dared to allow themselves to
believe that without such leavening their men
could successfully oppose a European army. But
now that they have seen them contrasted with the
pick of Continental soldiers, they know that they
could confidently lead their Sikhs, Gurkhas,
56 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Rajputs, Pathans, or Punjaubis against the men
of any other nation. Not only is the Indian
army as well equipped and organised as any it
could now be called upon to face, but also the fight-
ing races of our Eastern Empire, led by their
British officers, are equal to any foe. The despe-
rate battles of the Sikh War, when, as in the fierce
struggle of Chillianwallah, victory often hung
wavering in the balance, the determined resistance
of the mutinous troops in 1857, show that skilful
leadership is all that our sepoys need to enable
them to encounter the best soldiers of any nation.
India is a continent not a country composed
of many races that differ far more than European
nationalities. A Russian and an Englishman, a
Swede and an Italian are nearer akin, more alike
in appearance, manners, and modes of thought than
a Gurkha and a Pathan, a Sikh and a Mahratta,
a Rajput and a Madrassi. It follows that the
fighting value of all these various races of India is
not the same. No one would seek among the
Bengali babus or the Parsees of Bombay for
warriors. The Madras sepoy, though his prede-
cessors helped to conquer India for British rule,
has fallen from his high estate and is no longer
regarded as a reliable soldier. Yet the wisdom of
the policy which relegated him of late years alto-
gether to the background during war may be
questioned. For the Madras sappers and miners,
who alone of all the Madras army have been con-
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 57
stantly employed, have always proved satisfactory.
But the fiat has gone forth ; and the Madrassi will
be gradually replaced even in his own presidency
by the men of the more martial races of the North.
The Mahratta, who once struck terror throughout
the length and breadth of Hindustan, is considered
by some critics to be no longer useful as a fighting
man. But they forget that not so long ago in the
desperate battles near Suakin, when even British
troops gave back before the mad rushes of fanati-
cal Dervishes, the 28th Bombay Pioneers saved a
broken square from imminent destruction by their
steadfast bravery. And they were Mahrattas then.
Of the excellence of the gallant warrior clans of
Rajputana, of the fierce Pathans inured to fighting
from boyhood, of the sturdy, cheerful, little
Gurkhas, the steady, long-limbed Sikhs, none can
doubt. Hard to conquer were they in the past ;
splendid to lead to battle now. To Lord Roberts
is chiefly due the credit of welding together the
Indian army and making it the formidable fighting
machine it is.
One great factor of its efficiency is the excellence
of its British officers. Early placed in a position
of responsibility, they rapidly learn to rely on
themselves and act, if need be, on their own
initiative. In a British regiment an officer may
serve twenty years without commanding more than
a company ; whereas the Indian army subaltern,
before he has worn a sword three years, may find
58 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
himself in command of his battalion on field-days,
in manoeuvres, sometimes even in war. In the
stern fighting at the Malakand in the beginning of
the Tirah campaign, one Punjaub regiment was
commanded by a subaltern, who acquitted himself
of his difficult task with marked ability. Unlike
the system of promotion that exists in the British
army, the English officers of the native corps
attain the different grades after a certain number
of years' service nine for captain, eighteen for
major, twenty-six for lieutenant-colonel and may
occupy any position in their regiments irrespective
of the rank they hold.
An Indian infantry battalion consists of eight
companies, each under a native officer, termed a
subhedar, with a jemadar or lieutenant to assist
him. He is responsible for the discipline and in-
terior economy of his company. The senior native
officer is known as the subhedar-major. Instead of
the terms lance-corporal, corporal, sergeant, and
sergeant-major, lance- naik, naik, havildar, and
havildar-major are the names of the correspond-
ing grades.
The British officers practically form the staff of
the regiment. The former number of eight has
been recently increased to eleven, twelve, and
thirteen, according to the presidency to which the
corps belongs, those of the Punjaub being nearest
the danger zone of frontier wars and threatened
invasion possessing the largest number. The
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 59
eight companies are grouped in four double com-
panies the double company commander (a British
officer) having almost complete control of his unit.
The commanding officer of the battalion mainly
restricts himself to seeing that the training of each
portion of the regiment is identical and efficient.
Each corps possesses a commanding officer, four
double company commanders, an adjutant, a
quartermaster, and the remainder are known as
double company officers.
The organisation of a native cavalry regiment is
very similar, the terms squadron and squadron-
commander replacing double company and double
company commander. In most of the corps the
sowar, as the Indian cavalry private is called sepoy
being employed to denote an infantryman is
usually the owner of his horse ; and direct com-
missions to native gentlemen are of more frequent
occurrence in the cavalry than in the infantry.
Regimental transport consists of baggage-ponies
or mules, so that an Indian mounted corps is
particularly mobile.
Foreign officers in North China at first made
light of our Indian soldiers ; but they were not
those who had seen them fight in the early days
of the campaign. For one arm, however, there
was nothing but praise. All agreed that our native
cavalry was excellent. Even German officers ac-
knowledged that in smartness, horsemanship, and
efficiency it could not easily be surpassed. The
60 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
work done by the ist Bengal Lancers in the advance
on Pekin and afterwards could not be underrated.
With the exception of a few Cossacks and Japanese,
they were the only mounted troops available at
first. They were in constant demand to accompany
columns of Continental troops, and they won the
admiration of all the foreign officers with whom
they were brought in contact. In fact, the only
persons who failed to appreciate their merits were
the Tartar horsemen who ventured to oppose them
in the march on the capital. Their opinion is not
recorded, but I think that it would not be fit for
publication except in an expunged and mutilated
form. The 3rd Bombay Light Cavalry as good
a regiment as any that Bengal can show won
many encomiums for its smartness from all who
saw its squadrons at Tientsin, Shanghai, or Shan-
haikwan.
But Indian officers were at first surprised and
puzzled at the unflattering criticisms passed on our
native infantry. Those who had seen our sepoys
in many a hard-fought struggle on the frontier
could not understand the frequent remarks of foreign
officers, that " our men were very unequal."
"Some of them," they said, "are tall, well-built,
and powerful, and should make good soldiers ; but
others are old, feeble, and decrepit. We have seen
in the streets of Tientsin many who could not
support the weight of a rifle." But it was soon
discovered that these critics failed to comprehend
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 61
the distinction between fighting men and followers,
since in China both were clad somewhat alike.
The coolie corps, bheesties, syces, and dhoolie-
bearers were all dressed in khaki ; and Continental
officers were for a long time under the impression
that these were soldiers. The error was not un-
natural, and it accounted for the unfavourable
reports on the Indian troops which appeared in
many European journals. But those who under-
stood the difference were struck by the fine physique
and excellent training of our native army. When
we compared our Sikhs, Pathans, Gurkhas, and
Punjaubis with the men of most of the Allied
forces, we recognised that, led by British officers,
they would render a good account of themselves
if pitted against any troops in the world. And our
sepoys return to India filled with immeasurable
contempt for the foreign contingents they have
seen in China. As the ripples caused by a stone
thrown into a lake spread over the water, so their
opinion will radiate through the length and breadth
of the land ; and this unexpected lesson of the
campaign will have a far-reaching and beneficial
effect throughout our Eastern Empire.
India is essentially a soldier's country. Its army
is practically always on a war footing, the troops
near the frontier especially being ready to move at
a few hours' notice. The rapid despatch of the
British contingent for Natal and the China ex-
peditionary force are object-lessons. The peace
62 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
establishment of a native regiment is greater than
the strength required for active service. Hence on
mobilisation no reserves have to be called up to
fill its ranks ; recruits and sickly men can be left
behind, and it marches with only fully trained and
seasoned soldiers. In India vast stretches of
country are available for manoeuvres, which take
place every winter on a scale unknown in England.
Not a year passes without its little war. In con-
sequence, the training of the troops is thorough
and practical. The establishment of gun and rifle
factories is all that is needed to make India abso-
lutely self-containing. It produces now all other
requisites of war. Ammunition, clothing, and ac-
coutrements are manufactured in the country, and
it was able to supply, not only the needs of the
expedition in China, but also many things required
for the troops in South Africa.
To the pessimists in England and the hostile
critics abroad, who talk of the possibility of another
mutiny, the answer is that a general uprising of the
Native army can never occur again. The number
of British troops in India has been more than
doubled since 1857, and the proportion between
white and coloured regiments in each large station
more equalised. The artillery is altogether in
English hands, with the exception of the rank and
file of a few mountain batteries and the smooth-
bore guns maintained by native princes for show.
Communication has been enormously quickened by
THE ALLIED ARMIES IN CHINA 63
the network of railways that covers the country,
enabling a force to be moved in two or three days
to a point where formerly as many months were
required.
And the Indian army is loyal to the core loyal,
not to the vague idea of a far- distant England,
not to the vast impersonal Sircar* but loyal to
itself; loyal to its British officers, who, to the
limited minds of the sepoys, represent in concrete
form the Power whose salt they eat. And those
officers, speaking to each in his own tongue be
he Sikh, Rajput, or Dogra stand in the relation
of fathers to their men. To them in sorrow or
perplexity comes the sepoy, sure of sympathy
or aid. In their justice he reposes implicit con-
fidence. And as in peace he relies on these men
of alien race, so in war do they trust in him.
And the tales of the struggle of the Guides round
Battye's corpse, of the gallant Sikhs who died
at their post in Saragheri, of the men who refused
to abandon their dead and dying officers in the
treachery of Maizar, show that our trust is not
misplaced.
* i.e. Government.
CHAPTER IV
PEKIN
TIENTSIN is but a stepping-stone to Pekin
one a mere modern growth, important only
in view of the European commercial interests that
have made it what it is ; the other a fabled city
weird, mysterious. The slowly -beating heart of
the vast feeble Colossus, that may be pierced and
yet no agony, thrills through the distant members.
Pekin, the object of the veneration of every China-
man the world over. Pekin, which enshrines the
most sacred temples of the land, within whose
famous walls lies the marvellous Forbidden City,
the very name of which is redolent of mystery ;
around it history and fable gather and scarce may
be distinguished, so incredible the truth, so con-
ceivable the wildest conjecture. The Mecca to
which turn the thoughts of every Celestial. The
home of the sacred, almost legendary, Emperor,
whose word is law to the uttermost confines of
the land, and yet whose person is not inviolate
against palace intrigue ; omnipotent in theory,
powerless in reality, a ruler only in name. Wor-
shipped by millions of his subjects, yet despised
64
PEKIN 65
by the least among the mandarins of his court.
The meanest eunuch in the Purple City is not more
helpless than the monarch who boasts the proud
title of Son of Heaven.
Pekin, the seat of all power in the land, whence
flows the deadly poison of corruption that saps the
empire's strength ; the capital that twice within
the last fifty years has fallen before the avenging
armies of Europe, and yet still flourishes like a
noxious weed.
One morning as the train from Tong-ku came
into Tientsin Station and disgorged its usual crowd
of soldiers of the Allied Forces, I stood on the
platform with four other British officers, all bound
for Pekin. We established ourselves in a first-
class carriage, which was a mixture of coup6 and
corridor-car. The varied uniforms of our fellow-
passengers no longer possessed any interest for
us ; and we devoted our attention to the scenery
on each side of the railway. From Tientsin to
Pekin the journey occupies about five hours. The
line runs through level, fertile country, where the
crops stand higher than a mounted man ; thus
the actions on the way to the relief of the Lega-
tions were fought blindfold. Among the giant
vegetation troops lost direction, corps became
mixed, and the enemy could seldom be seen. As
the train ran on, the tops of the tall stalks rose
in places above the roofs of the carriages, and
shut in our view as though we were passing
F
66 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
through a dense forest. Here and there we
rattled past villages or an occasional temple almost
hidden by the high crops. There were several
stations along the line ; the buildings solidly con-
structed of stone, the walls loopholed for defence.
On the platforms the usual cosmopolitan crowd
of soldiers, and Chinamen of all ages offering for
sale bread, cakes, Japanese beer, bottles of vin
ordinaire bought from the French, grapes, peaches,
and plums in profusion. In winter various kinds
of game, with which the country teems, are
substituted for the fruit. At Yangsun were a
number of Chasseurs d'Afrique, whose regiment
was quartered in the vicinity. Trains passed us ;
the carriages crowded with troops of all nations,
the trucks filled with horses, guns and military
stores, or packed with grinning Chinamen.
At last, between the trees, glimpses of yellow-
tiled roofs flashing in the sunlight told us that
we were nearing the capital. Leaning from the
windows we saw, apparently stretching right across
the track, a long, high wall, with buttresses and
lofty towers at intervals. It was the famous Wall
of Pekin. Suddenly a large gap seemed to open
in it ; the train glided through, and we found
ourselves in the middle of a large city as we
slowed down alongside a platform on which stood
a board with the magic word " Pekin." We had
reached our journey's end. On the other side of
the line was a broad, open space, through which
PEKIN 67
ran a wide road paved with large stone flags.
Over it flowed an incessant stream of carts, rick-
shas, and pedestrians. Behind the station ran
a long wall which enclosed the Temple of Heaven,
where, after General Gaselee's departure, the British
headquarters in Pekin were established.
On the platform we found a half-caste guide
waiting for us, sent to meet us by friends in the
English Legation. Resigning our luggage to him
and directing him to convey it to the one hotel
the capital possessed, we determined to begin our
sightseeing at once and walked towards the gate-
way of the enclosure in which stands the Temple
of Heaven. On entering, we found ourselves in
a large and well-wooded demesne. Groves of tall
trees, leafy rides, and broad stretches of turf made it
seem more like an English park than the grounds
of a Chinese temple. Long lines of tents, crossed
lances, and picketed horses marked the camp of
a regiment of Bengal cavalry ; for in the vast
enclosure an army might bivouac with ease.
Here was held the historic British assault-at-arms,
when foreign officers were roused to enthusiasm
at the splendid riding of our Indian cavalry and
the marvellous skill of the Royal Horse Artillery
as they swung their teams at full speed round the
marks in the driving competitions.
Apropos of the latter corps a story is told of
Field - Marshal Von Waldersee's introduction to
them at the first review he held of British troops
68 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
at Tientsin. When the horse gunners came
thundering down towards the saluting base in a
cloud of dust, their horses stretching to a mad
gallop, the guns bounding behind them like things
of no weight but with every muzzle in line, the
German Commander-in-Chief is said to have burst
into admiring exclamation: "Splendid! Marvel-
lous ! " he cried. As they flew past the old man
huddled up on his charger, he started in surprise
and peered forward.
" Donnerwetter ! " he exclaimed, "why, they
actually have their guns with them ! " The pace
was so furious that he had been under the im-
pression that they were galloping past with the
teams only ; for he had thought it impossible for
artillery to move at such speed drawing their
field-pieces. The other officers of the Allied
Armies were equally amazed at the sight.
"It is positively dangerous !" said a German.
" C'est incroyable ! Ca ne peut pas ! " cried an
excited Frenchman.
" Say, that'll show the Dagoes that they've got
something still to learn," said a pleased Yankee.
The Temple of Heaven consists of long, low
buildings of the conventional Chinese architecture,
with wide, upturned eaves. We found it empty
but for a few memorial tablets of painted or gilded
wood. Emerging through a small gate and cross-
ing a tiny marble bridge, we strolled through the
park to another temple, the conical roof of which
PEK1N 69
rose above the trees. It was known to the British
troops in Pekin as the Temple of the Sun ; whether
the name is correct or not I cannot say.*
Passing the cavalry camp we came to a flight of
steps, which led up to a terrace. On ascending this
we found a huge gateway to the left. We passed
through, and then, little susceptible as we were to
artistic emotions, we stopped and gazed in silent
admiration as the full beauty of the building stood
revealed. The temple, circular in shape, stands on
a slight eminence, surrounded by tiers of white
marble balustrades. Its triple roof, bright with
gleaming blue tiles and golden knob, blazed in the
sun, the spaces between the roofs filled with gay
designs in brilliant colours. The walls were of
carved stone open-work with many doors. It rose,
a dream of beauty and grace, against a dark green
background of leafy trees, the loveliest building in
Pekin. Within, all was bare. An empty altar, a
painted tablet, a few broken gilt stools were all that
pillaging hands had spared. The massive bronze
urns which stood outside, too heavy to be carried
away, had lost their handles, wrenched off for the
mere value of the metal. Quitting the temple and
passing through a door in a low wall, we came to a
broad open space, in which stood a curious con-
* Lord Curzon, in his interesting book, Problems of the Far East,
refers to this building as " The Temple of Heaven " and calls what
I have described as "The Centre of the Universe" "The Altar of
Heaven." He is more likely to be correct than the officers of the
armies of occupation, but I give the names which they used.
70 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
struction which bears the proud title of " Centre of
the Universe." Three circles of white marble balus-
trades, one within the other, rose up to a paved
platform, round which were large urns. Here once
a year the Emperor comes in state to offer sacrifice
to the manes of his ancestors. Close by was the
Temple of the Moon, in design similar to that of
the Sun, but much smaller and with only a single
roof.
This exhausted the sights of the Temple of
Heaven. We returned through the park to the
railway station, where we procured rickshas to take
us to the hotel. Strong, active coolies whirled us
along over the wide, flagged road that runs through
the Chinese town. We passed crowds of Celestials
trudging on in the awful dust, springless Pekin
carts drawn by sturdy little ponies, an occasional
Bengal Lancer or German Mounted Infantryman,
through streets of mean shops, the fronts hung with
gaudy sign-boards, until we reached the wall of the
Tartar city. Before us stood the Chien Men Gate,
the brick tower above it roofless and shattered by
shells, the heavy iron-studded door swung back.
We rumbled through the long, tunnel-like entrance,
between rows of low, one-story houses, and soon
reached the famous Legation Street, the quarter in
which lie the residences of the Foreign Ministers
and the other Europeans in Pekin. We passed
along a wide road in good repair, by gateways at
which stood Japanese, French, and German sentries,
PEKIN 71
by the shattered ruins of the Hong Kong and
Shanghai Bank. All around the Legations lay
acres of wrecked Chinese houses, torn by shells and
blackened by fire a grim memento of the outrage
that had roused the civilised world to arms. At
length we reached a broad street leading from the
Ha-ta-man Gate, turned to the left down it, and
drew up before a small entrance in a line of low,
one-story houses. Above it was a board bearing
the inscription, " Hotel du Nord." Jumping from
our rickshas, we paid off the perspiring coolies,
and, walking across a small courtyard, were met by
the proprietor and shown to our quarters. The
hotel, which had been opened shortly after the
relief of the Legations, consisted of a number of
squalid Chinese houses, which had been cleverly
converted into comfortable dining, sitting, and bed-
rooms. An excellent cuisine made it a popular
resort for the officers of the Allies in Pekin, and we
found ourselves as well catered for as we could have
done in many more pretentious hostels in civilised
lands.
A short description of the chief city of China
may not be out of place ; though recent events
have served to draw it from the obscurity that en-
shrouded it so long. It is singular among the
capitals of the world for the regularity of its out-
line, owing to the stupendous walls which confine it.
These famous battlements are twenty-five miles in
total circumference, and the long lines, studded with
72 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
lofty towers and giant buttresses, present an im-
posing spectacle from the exterior.
Pekin is divided into two separate and distinct
cities, the Tartar and the Chinese. The latter,
adjoining the southern wall of the former, is in
shape a parallelogram, its longer sides running
east and west. It grew as an excrescence to the
capital of the victorious Manchus, and was in
ancient times inhabited by the conquered Chinese
as the Tartar City was by the superior race, though
now this line of demarcation is lost in the practical
merging of the two nationalities as regards the
lower orders. The wall of the Chinese city is
thirty feet high and twenty feet thick.
The Tartar city, in shape also a parallelogram,
with the longer sides north and south, is sur-
rounded by a much more imposing wall, which if
vigorously defended would prove a truly formid-
able obstacle to any army unprovided with a
powerful siege train. It is forty feet high, fifty
feet broad at the top, and sixty-four feet thick at
the base, and consists of two masonry walls, made
of enormous bricks as solid as stone, that on the
external face being twelve feet thick, the interior
one eight feet, the space between them filled with
clay, rammed in layers of from six to nine inches.*
A practicable breach might be effected by the
concentrated fire of heavy siege guns, for shells
* These dimensions were given me by Lieutenant Pearson, R.E.,
who had to tunnel the wall to allow the passage of a railway line.
PEKIN 73
planted near the top of the wall would probably
bring down bricks and earth enough to form a
ramp. From the outside seven gateways lead into
the Chinese city, six into the Tartar, while com-
munication between the two is maintained by three
more. They can be closed by enormously thick,
iron-studded wooden gates, which in ordinary times
are shut at night. The Japanese effected an
entrance into the Tartar city by blowing in one
of these. At the corners of the walls and over
each gateway are lofty brick towers several stories
high, the intervals between them being divided
by buttresses. These towers are comparatively
fragile, and at the taking of Pekin those attacked
suffered considerably from the shell fire of the
field guns of the Allies. Outwards from the base
of the walls a broad open space is left.
The Tartar City is by far the more important.
It holds most of the temples, the residences of the
upper and wealthier classes, the important build-
ings and larger shops. In the centre of it is the
Imperial city, in shape an irregular square, en-
closed by a high wall seven miles in circumfer-
ence, the top of which is covered with yellow
tiles. Here are found the public buildings and
the houses of the official mandarins ; and in its
heart lies the Purple or Forbidden City, the resi-
dence of the Emperor and his Court. All the
buildings inside the limits of the Imperial city are
roofed with gleaming yellow tiles, that being the
74 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
sacred colour. To the south-east, near the wall
of the Chinese city, lies the Legation quarter,
where most of the European residents live.
The only high ground in Pekin consists of two
small eminences, just inside the northern boundary
of the Imperial city. One, facing the gateway, is
known as Coal Hill. Tradition declares it to
consist of an enormous quantity of coal, accumu-
lated in former times to provide against a threat-
ened siege. It is covered with trees, bushes, and
grass. On the summit is a pavilion, from which
an excellent view over all Pekin is obtained. At
one's feet the yellow roofs of the buildings in the
Imperial and Forbidden cities blaze in the sun
like gold. To the right is the other small tree-
clad hill, on which stands the quaintly shaped
Ming Pagoda. Below it, to the right of the
Imperial city, lies a gleaming expanse of water,
the Lotos Lake, crossed by a picturesque white
marble bridge, with strange, small, circular arches.
Near it is the Palace of the Empress- Do wager.
To the south of the sacred city is the Legation
quarter, where the European-looking buildings of
the residences of the Foreign Ministers and the
other alien inhabitants seem curiously out of keep-
ing with their surroundings. Far away the high,
many-storied towers over the gateways between
the Tartar and the Chinese city rise up from the
long line of embattled wall. Looking down on it
from this height Pekin is strangely picturesque,
PEKIN 75
with a sea of foliage that surges between the
buildings ; and yet on descending into the streets
one wonders what has become of the trees with
which the city seemed filled. The fact is that
they are extremely scattered, one in one court-
yard, one in another, and in consequence are
scarcely remarked from the level. The Palace,
the Legations, and the towers are the only build-
ings that stand up prominently among the mono-
tonous array of low roofs, for the houses are
almost invariably only one-storied.
The Tartar City is pierced by broad roads running
at right angles to the walls. From them a net-
work of smaller lanes leads off, usually extremely
narrow and always unsavoury, being used as the
dumping-ground of all the filth and refuse of the
neighbouring houses. The main streets even are
unpaved and ill-kept. The centre portion alone is
occasionally repaired in a slovenly fashion, apparently
by heaping on it fresh earth taken from the sides,
which have consequently become mere ditches eight
or nine feet below the level of the middle causeway
and the narrow footpaths along the front of the
houses. After heavy rain these fill with water and
are transformed into rushing rivers. Occasionally
on dark nights a cart falls into them, the horse
unguided by a sleepy driver, and the occupants
are drowned. Such a happening in the principal
thoroughfares of a large and populous city seems
incredible. I could scarcely believe it until I was
76 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
once obliged almost to swim my pony across a main
street with the water up to the saddle -flaps, and
this after only a few hours' rain. A Chinaman, by
the way, will never rescue a drowning man, from
the superstition that the rescuer will always meet
with misfortune from the hand of the one he has
saved.
The houses are mostly one story high, dingy
and squalid. The shops, covered with gaudy red
and gold sign-boards, have little frontage but much
depth, and display to the public gaze scarcely any-
thing of the goods they contain. All along the
principal streets peddlers establish themselves on
the narrow side-walks, spread their wares on the
ground about them, and wait with true Oriental
patience for customers. The houses of the richer
folk are secluded within courtyards, and cannot be
seen from the public thoroughfares.
On the whole, Pekin from the inside is not an
attractive city ; and as the streets in dry weather are
thick with dust that rises in clouds when a wind
blows, and in wet are knee-deep in mud where not
flooded, they do not lend themselves to casual
strolling. The broad tops of the walls are much
preferable for a promenade. Access to them is
gained by ramps at intervals. They are clean, not
badly paved though often overgrown with bushes,
and afford a good view over the surrounding houses,
and in the summer offer the only place where a
cooling breeze can be found.
PEKIN 77
Comfortably installed in the Hotel du Nord, we
determined to devote our firt afternoon in Pekin
to a visit to the quarter of most pressing, though
temporary, interest, the Legations, on which the
thoughts of the whole civilised world had been
concentrated during their gallant defence against
a fanatical and cowardly foe. As the distance was
short, we set out on foot. The courtyard of the
hotel opens on to the long street that runs through
the Tartar city from the Ha-ta-man Gate, leading
into the Chinese city. As the wall was close at
hand, we ascended it by one of the ramps or
inclined ways that lead to the top, and entered the
tower above the gateway. It was a rectangular
three-storied building with the usual sloping gabled
roofs and wide, upturned eaves of Chinese architec-
ture. The interior was bare and empty. The lower
room was wide and lofty, the full breadth and depth
of the tower, and communicating with the floor
above by a steep ladder. From the large windows
of the upper stories a fine view over both cities was
obtained. We looked down on the seething crowds
passing along Ha-ta-man Street and away to where,
above the Legation quarter, the flags of the Allies
fluttered gaily in proud defiance to the tall yellow
roofs of the Imperial palace close by. Descending,
we emerged upon the broad paved road that ran
along the top of the wall, and found it a pleasant
change from the close, fetid streets. The side
towards the Chinese city, the houses of which run up
78 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
to the foot of the wall, is defended by a loopholed
and embrasured parapet. We soon found ourselves
over the Legation quarter and looked down on the
spot where the besieged Europeans had so long
held their assailants at bay. A broad ditch or
nullah with walled sides, which during the rains
drains the Tartar city, ran towards the wall on
which we stood, passing beneath our feet through
a tunnel in it, which could be closed by an iron
grating. This was the famous water-gate by which
the Anglo- Indian troops had entered, first of the
Allies, to the relief of the besieged. The nullah was
crossed by several bridges, over one of which passes
Legation Street, along which we had ridden in our
rickshas that morning. On the left bank of the
nullah, looking north, stands the English Legation,
surrounded by a high wall enclosing well-wooded
grounds. Opposite it, on the right bank, is the
Japanese Legation, similarly enclosed. During the
siege the two were connected by a wall built across
the watercourse, which is generally dry, and they
thus formed the front face of the defence. A
portion of the city wall, cut off by breastworks
on the summit, became the rear face, which was
held by the Americans, who were attacked along
the top of the wall itself. The French, German,
and Belgian Legations lay to the right and rear
of the Japanese ; while the Russian and American
stood between the British Legation and the wall.
All around the limits of the defence were acres of
o -a
PEKIN 79
wrecked and burnt Chinese houses, destroyed im-
partially by besiegers and besieged.
After a long study of the position from our coign
of vantage, we descended to the left bank of the
nullah ; and, passing the residences of the American
and Russian Ministers guarded by stalwart Yankee
soldier or heavily built Slav, we came to where the
imposing gateway of the English Legation opens
out on the road running along the bank. Inside
the entrance stood the guardroom. To the right
lay the comfortable residences of the Minister and
the various officials spread about in the spacious,
tree-shaded grounds. We passed on to a group
of small and squalid Chinese houses, which served
as the quarters for the officers and men of the
Legation Guard, chiefly composed of Royal Welch
Fusiliers. The officers in command, all old friends
of ours, received us most hospitably, and enter-
tained us with grateful refreshment and the news
of Pekin. We were cynically amused at learning
from them an instance of the limits of human
gratitude. The civilian inhabitants of the English
Legation have insisted that a wall should be built
between their residences and the quarters of the
guard, lest, perchance, the odour of "a brutal and
licentious soldiery " should come betwixt the wind
and their nobility. They gladly welcome their
protection in time of danger, but in peace their
fastidious eyes would be offended by the sight
of the humble red-coat. Our hosts showed us
8o THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
round the grounds and the enceinte of the defence,
and explained many points in the siege that we had
not previously understood.
When, our visit over, we walked back to the
hotel down Legation Street, we were interested
in noticing that the walls and houses bordering the
road were covered with bullet splashes ; while
the ruins of the Chinese houses, of the fine building
that had once been a branch of the Hong Kong
and Shanghai Bank, and of some of the Legations
spoke eloquently of the ravages of war. On the
wreckage around notices were posted, showing the
increased areas claimed for the various foreign
Legations in the general scramble that ensued on
the fall of Pekin. Little Belgium, with her scanty
interests in China, has not done badly. Every-
where were to be seen placards bearing the legend,
"Occupe" par la Legation Beige," until she promised
to have almost more ground than any of the great
Powers. Vae Victis, indeed ! And the truth of it
was evident everywhere, from the signs of the
game of general grab all around the Legations to
the insolent manner of a German Mounted Infantry-
man we saw scattering the Chinese foot-passengers
as he galloped along the street.
When we entered the dining-room of the hotel
that evening, we found it filled with Continental
officers, who, as we bowed to the groups at the
various tables before taking our seats, rose politely
and returned our greeting. Britishers unused to
PEKIN 81
the elaborate foreign courtesy found the continual
salutes that were the custom of most of the Allies
rather a tax at first ; and the ungraciousness of
English manners was a frequent source of comment
among those of our European brothers-in-arms who
had never before been brought in contact with the
Anglo-Saxon race. But they soon regarded us as
almost paragons of politeness compared with our
American cousins, who had no stomach for the
universal "bowing and scraping," and with true
republican frankness, did not hesitate to let it be
known. Our proverbial British gruffness wore off
after a little time, and our Continental comrades
finally came to the conclusion that we were not
so unmannerly as they deemed us at first. In the
beginning some offence was given as they did not
understand that in the English naval or military
services it is the custom where several officers are
together for the senior only to acknowledge a
salute ; for in the other European armies all would
reply equally to it.
The three leading characteristics of Pekin are
its odour, its dust in dry weather, and its mud after
rain. The cleanliness introduced by the Allies did
wonders towards allaying the stench ; and I do not
think that any place in the world, short of an
alkali desert, can beat the dust of the Long Valley.
But though I have seen "dear, dirthy Dublin" in
wet weather, have waded through the slush of
Aldershot, and had certainly marvelled at the mire
82 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
of Hsin-ho, yet never have I gazed on aught to
equal the depth, the intensity, and the consistency
of the awful mud of Pekin. We made its acquaint-
ance on the day following our arrival. Heavy rain
had kept us indoors until late in the afternoon
when, taking advantage of a temporary cessation
of the deluge, we rashly ventured on a stroll down
Ha-ta-man Street. The city, never beautiful,
looked doubly squalid in the gloomy weather.
Along the raised centre portion of the roadway
the small Pekin carts laboured literally axle-deep
in mire. It was impossible for rickshas to ply.
On either side the lower parts of the street were
several feet under water, while gushing torrents
rushed into them from the alleys and lanes. We
struggled with difficulty through the awful mud,
wading through pools too broad to jump. Once
or twice we nearly slipped off the edge of the
central causeway, and narrowly escaped an un-
welcome bath in the muddy river alongside. As
we splashed and skipped along like schoolboys,
laughing at our various mishaps, our mirth was
suddenly hushed. Down the road towards us
tramped a mournful cortege a funeral party of
German soldiers marching with reversed arms
behind a gun-carriage on which lay, in a rough
Chinese coffin, the corpse of some young conscript
from the Vaterland. As we stood aside to let the
procession pass, we raised our hands to our helmets
in a last salute to a comrade.
PEKIN 83
In sobered mood we waded on until, in the
centre of the roadway, we came to a mat-shed that
marked the site of a monument to be erected
on the spot where the German Minister, Baron
Kettler, was murdered at the outbreak of the
troubles. Foully slain as he had been by soldiers
of the Chinese Imperial troops, his unhappy fate
proved perhaps the salvation of the other Europeans
in the Legations. For it showed that no reliance
could be placed on the promises of the Court which
had just offered them a safe-conduct and an escort
to Tientsin. And on the ground stained by his
life-blood the monument will stand, a grim memento
and a warning of the vengeance of civilisation.
Weary of our struggles with the mud, we now
resolved to go no farther and turned back to the
hotel, but not in time to escape a fresh downpour,
which drenched us thoroughly.
Next day we changed our abode, having found
accommodation in the portion of Pekin allotted to
the English troops ; for the city was divided into
sections for the allied occupation. Some officers
of the Welch Fusiliers had kindly offered us room
in their quarters in Chong Wong Foo. This
euphonious title signifies the palace of Prince
Chong, who was one of the eight princes of China.
Our new lodging was more imposing in name than
in fact. The word " palace " conjured up visions
of stately edifices and princely magnificence which
were dissipated by our first view of the reality.
84 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Seated in jolting, springless Pekin carts that
laboured heavily through the deep mire, we had
driven from the hotel through miles of dismal,
squalid streets. Turning off a main road, which
was being repaired, or rather re-made, by the
British, we entered a series of small, evil-smelling
lanes bordered by high walls, from the doorways
of which an occasional phlegmatic Chinaman re-
garded us with languid interest. At length we
came to a narrow road, which the rain of the
previous day had converted into a canal. The
water rose over the axles of the carts. Our sturdy
ponies splashed on indomitably until ahead of us
the roadway widened out into a veritable lake
before a large gate at which stood a British sentry.
As we approached he called out to us to turn down
a lane to the right and seek a side entrance, as
the water in front of the principal one here was
too deep for our carts. Thanks to his directions,
we found a doorway in the wall which gave
admittance to a large courtyard. Jumping out of
our uncomfortable vehicles, we entered. Round the
enclosure were long, one-storied buildings, their
fronts consisting of lattice-work covered with paper.
They were used as barrack-rooms, and we secured
a soldier in one of them to guide us. He led us
through numerous similar courtyards, in one of
which stood a temple converted into a gun-shed,
until we finally passed through a small door in
a wall into a tangled wilderness of a garden. At
PEKIN 85
the far end of this stood a long, low building with
the conventional Chinese curved roof. It was con-
structed of brick and wood, the latter for the most
part curiously carved. The low -hanging eaves
overspreading the broad stone verandah were
supported by worm-eaten pillars. The portico and
doorways were of fragile lattice-work, trellised in
fantastic designs. It was the main portion of Prince
Chong's residence and resembled more a dilapi-
dated summer-house than a princely palace. Here
we were met and welcomed by our hosts, Major
Dobell, D.S.O. and Lieutenant Williams, who
ushered us into the anything but palatial interior,
which consisted of low, dingy rooms dimly lighted
by paper-covered windows. The various chambers
opened off each other or into gloomy passages in
bewildering and erratic fashion. Camp beds and
furniture seemed out of keeping with the surround-
ings ; but a few blackwood stools were apparently
all that Prince Chong had left behind him for his
uninvited guests. Thanks to our friends' kindness,
we were soon comfortably installed, and felt as
much at home as if we had lived in palaces all
our lives. It took us some time to learn our
way about the labyrinth of courts. The buildings
scattered through the yards would have afforded
ample accommodation for a regiment ; and a whole
brigade could have encamped with ease within the
circumference enclosed by the outer walls.
The place of most fascinating interest in the
86 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
marvellous capital of China is undoubtedly the
Forbidden City, the Emperor's residence. With
the wonderful attraction of the mysterious its very
name, fraught with surmise, is alluring. Nothing
in all the vastness of Pekin excited such curiosity
as the fabled enclosure that had so long shrouded
in awful obscurity the Son of Heaven. No white
man in ordinary times could hope to fathom its
mysteries or know what lay concealed within
its yellow walls. The ambassadors of the proudest
nations of Europe were only admitted on suffer-
ance, and that rarely, to the outermost pavilions
of that sacred city, the hidden secrets of which
none might dare reveal. But now the monarch
of Celestial origin was an exile from the palace,
whose inmost recesses were profaned by the im-
pious presence of his foes. The tramp of an
avenging army had echoed through its deserted
courts ; barbarian voices broke its holy hush.
Foreign soldiers jested carelessly in the sacred
chamber where the proudest mandarins of China
had prostrated themselves in awe before the Dragon
Throne. Within its violated walls strangers wan-
dered freely where they listed; and Heaven sent not
its lightnings to avenge the sacrilege. Surely the
gods were sleeping !
While the capital of the Celestial Kingdom
languished in the grasp of the accursed barbarian,
admittance to the Forbidden City was granted to
anyone who obtained a written order from one of
PEKIN 87
the Legations. This was readily given to officers
of the armies of occupation. Provided with it and
a Chinese-speaking guide, a party of us set out
one day from the British Legation to explore the
mysteries of the Emperor's abode. A short ricksha
ride brought us to the Imperial city. A rough
paved road through it led to the gateway of the
Palace, at which stood a guard of stalwart Ameri-
can soldiers. Quitting our rickshas, we presented
our pass to the sergeant in command. The gates
were thrown open, and we were permitted to enter
the sacred portals. Before us lay a large paved
courtyard, the grass springing up between the stone
flags, leading to a long, single-storied pavilion,
seemingly crushed beneath the weight of its wide-
spreading yellow-tiled double roof. To one who
has imagined undreamt-of luxury and magnificence
in the residence of the Emperor of China the
reality comes as a sad disappointment. The Palace,
far from being a pile of splendid and ornate archi-
tecture, consists of a number of detached single-
storied buildings, one behind the other, separated
by immense paved courtyards, along the sides of
which are the residences of the servants and at-
tendants. The outer pavilions are a series of throne
rooms, in which audience is given according to the
rank of the individual admitted to the presence in
inverse ratio to his importance. Thus, the first
nearest the gate suffices for the reception of the
smaller mandarins or envoys of petty States, the
88 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
next for higher notabilities or ambassadors of
greater nations, and so on.
The description of one of these throne rooms
will serve for all.
A raised foundation, with tier above tier of carved
white marble balustrades, slopes up to a paved ter-
race on which stands a large one-storied pavilion.
Its double roof blazes with lustrous yellow tiles ; the
gables are ornamented with weird porcelain mon-
sters. The far-projecting eaves, shading a deep
verandah, are supported by many pillars. From
the courtyard steps on either side of the sloping
marble slab, curiously carved with fantastic designs
of dragons and known as the Spirit Path, lead up
to the terrace, on which are large bronze incense-
burners, urns, life-size storks, and other birds and
animals, with marble images of the sacred tortoise.
From the verandah many doors lead into the vast
and gloomy interior. A lofty central chamber,
supported by gilded columns, contains a high dais,
on which stands a throne of gilt and carved wood
with bronze urns and incense-burners around it.
The dais is surrounded by gilded railings and led
up to by a flight of half a dozen steps. Behind it
is a high screen of carved wood. Screen, walls,
and pillars are gay with quaint designs of writhing,
coiling dragons in gold and vivid hues, or hung
with huge tablets inscribed with Chinese characters.
The ceiling is gorgeously painted. The whole a
wonderful medley of barbaric gaudiness. From
PEKIN 89
the principal chamber a few smaller rooms lead off,
crammed with wooden chests containing piles of
manuscripts.
As we wandered about this pavilion our move-
ments were closely watched by the custodians ; for
many of the Imperial eunuchs had been permitted
to remain in the palace and entrusted with the keys
and charge of the various buildings. As, after the
fairly exhaustive looting that took place on the
capture of the city, no further plundering was
allowed, these men were instructed to watch over
the safety of the contents of the palace that had
escaped the first marauders ; and they kept a
sharp eye on visitors who endeavoured to secure
mementoes. Despite their vigilance, one of our
party succeeded in carrying off a little souvenir
which he found in a chamber off the throne room.
It was a small, flat candlestick, which its finder
hoped would prove to be gold. It was only of
brass, however, as he subsequently discovered ; and
he commented disgustedly on the parsimony of a
monarch who could allow so mean a metal within
his palace.
In the usual spirit of tourists, to whom nothing
is sacred, we each reposed for a few moments in
the Emperor's gilded chair, so that we could boast
of once having occupied the Throne of China. I
doubt if future historians will record our names
among those who have assumed that exalted
position.
90 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Passing through this building, we emerged upon
another courtyard, at the far end of which stood a
similar pavilion. Its interior arrangement differed
but slightly from the one which I have just described.
There were several of these throne rooms, one
behind the other, all very much alike. Along the
sides of the intervening courts were low buildings
of the usual Chinese type, which had served as
residences for the palace attendants.
We came to a large joss-house, or temple, the
interior filled with gilded altars, hideous gods,
memorial tablets, bronze incense-burners and can-
delabra, silken hangings, and tawdry decorations.
Here the reigning monarch comes to worship on
the vigil of his marriage.
In amusing proximity was the Emperor's seraglio.
The gate was closed during the allied occupation,
and on it was a notice to the effect that " the cus-
todian has strict orders not to admit any person.
Do not ill-treat him if he refuses to open the gate
for you. He is only obeying orders." It was
signed by General Chaffee, United States Army,
and was significant of many things. So the hidden
beauties still remain a mystery to the outer world.
Near one of the pavilions a giant bronze attracted
our attention. It represented an enormous lion,
with particularly ferocious countenance, reposing
on a square pedestal, one long-clawed fore-paw
resting on the terrestrial globe. Beneath the other
sprawled in agony a very diminutive lion, em-
PEKIN 91
blematic of China's enemies crushed beneath her
might. The sculpture seemed rather ironical at
that epoch.
Passing onwards through a puzzling maze of
courtyards, we reached at length the most interest-
ing portion of the palace, the private apartments
of the Emperor, the Empress-Consort, and that
notorious lady the Empress- Dowager. Like all
the rest of the Forbidden City, they were merely
one-storied, yellow-roofed pavilions separated by
courts.
The interior of the Emperor's abode consisted
of low, rather dingy rooms opening off each other.
The appointments were of anything but regal
magnificence. The furniture was of carved black-
wood, with an admixture of tawdry European chairs
and sofas. On the walls hung a weird medley
of Chinese paintings and cheap foreign oleographs,
all in gorgeous gilt frames. The latter were such
as would be found in a fifth-rate lodging-house
horse races, children playing at see-saw, con-
ventional landscapes, and farmyard scenes. Jade
ornaments and artificial flowers in vases abounded ;
but all around, wherever one could be hung or
placed, were European clocks, from the gilt French
timepiece under a glass shade to the cheapest
wooden eight-day clock. There must have been
at least two or three hundred, probably more,
scattered about the pavilion. The Chinese have
a weird and inexplicable passion for them, and a
92 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
man's social respectability would seem to be
gauged more by the number of timepieces he
possesses than by any other outward and visible
signs of wealth. What a costly collection of rare
masterpieces of art is to the American millionaire,
the heterogeneous gathering of foreign clocks
apparently is to the* Celestial plutocrat. The
Imperial bed was a fine piece of carved blackwood ;
but the most magnificent article of furniture in
the pavilion was a large screen of the famous
Canton featherwork, made of the green and blue
plumage of the kingfisher. The design, which
was framed and covered with glass, represented
a pilgrimage to a sacred mountain. On its summit
stood a temple, towards which crowds of wor-
shippers climbed wearily. As a work of art it
was excellent. It was the only thing in the
Imperial apartments which I coveted. The rest
of the furniture and fittings were tawdry and
apparently valueless.
The pavilion of the Empress-Consort was rather
more luxuriously upholstered than that of her
husband and contained some splendid embroideries.
In her boudoir, besides the inevitable collection of
clocks, oleographs, and artificial flowers, were a
piano and a small organ, both very much out of
tune, presented, we were told, by European ladies
resident in China.
The pavilion of the Empress- Dowager, a much
finer abode than that of the reigning monarch,
PEKIN 93
contained a long, glass-walled room crowded with
bizarre ornaments of foreign workmanship. Musi-
cal boxes, mechanical toys under glass shades,
vases of wax flowers, stood along each side on
marble-topped tables ; and all around, of course,
clocks. On the walls of her sleeping apartment
hung a strange astronomical chart. The bed, an
imposing and wide four-poster, was covered and
hung with rich embroideries. And, as tourists
should do, we lay down in turn on the old lady's
couch, where I warrant she had tossed in sleepless
agitation in those last summer nights when the
rattle of musketry around the besieged Legations
told that the hated foreigners still resisted China's
might. And little slumber must have visited her
there when the booming of guns, during the dark
hours when Russian and Japanese flung themselves
on the doomed city, disturbed the silence even in'
the sacrosanct heart of the Forbidden City and
told of the vengeance at hand.
Having thoroughly inspected the Imperial apart-
ments, we visited a very gaudily decorated temple,
crowded with weird gods and hung with em-
broideries, and then passed on to the small but
delightful Emperor's garden. It was full of quaintly
shaped trees and shrubs, bizarre rockeries and
curious summer-houses, gorgeous flowers and plants,
and splendid bronze monsters. These last abso-
lutely blazed in the brilliant sunlight as though
gilded ; for they are made of that costly Chinese
94 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
bronze which contains a large admixture of gold.
The garden closed the catalogue of sights to be
seen in the palace ; and though we visited a few
more of the dingy buildings of the Forbidden City,
there was nothing else worthy of being chronicled.
We passed out through the northern gateway and
climbed up Coal Hill close by for a long, compre-
hensive look over Pekin from the pavilion on the
summit.
All around us the capital lay embosomed in trees
and bathed in brilliant sunshine, the yellow roofs of
the Imperial Palace at our feet flashing like gold.
To the right lay the pretty Lotos Lakes of the
Empress- Do wager, the white marble bridge span-
ning them stretching like a delicate ivory carving
over the gleaming water. Through the haze of
heat and dust the towers of the walls rose up boldly
to the sky. And far away, beyond the crowded
city, the country stretched in fertile fields and dense
groves of trees to a distant line of hills, where the
tall temples of the Summer Palace stood out
sharply against a dark background.
CHAPTER V
RAMBLES IN PEKIN
WHEN the treachery of the Empress-
Dowager and the mad fanaticism of the
Chinese ringed in the Legations with a circle of
fire and steel, all the world trembled at the danger
of the besieged Europeans. When Pekin fell and
relief came, the heroism of the garrison was lauded
through every nation. But few heard of a still
more gallant and desperate defence which took
place at the same time and in the same city when
a few priests and a handful of marines in the
Peitan, the Roman Catholic cathedral of Pekin,
long held at bay innumerable hordes of assailants.
Well deserved as was the praise bestowed on the
defenders of the Legations, their case was never
so desperate as that of the missionaries, nuns, and
converts penned up in the church and schools. On
the Peitan fell the first shock of fanatical attack ;
no armistice gave rest to its weary garrison, and
to it relief came last of all. For over two months,
with twenty French and eleven Italian marines, the
heroic Archbishop, Monseigneur Favrier, and his
priests all honour to them! held an almost im-
possible position against overwhelming numbers.
95
96 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
The enceinte of the defence comprised the cathe-
dral, the residences of the priests, the schools, and
the convent, and contained within its straggling
precincts, besides the nuns and the missionaries,
over 3,000 converts men, women, and children.
The buildings were riddled with shot and shell.
Twice mines were exploded within the defences
and tore away large portions of the protecting wall,
besides killing or wounding hundreds.
The Chinese occupied houses within a few yards
of the cathedral, and on one occasion brought a
gun up within forty paces of its central door. A
few rounds would have laid the way open to the
stormers. All hope seemed lost ; when the daunt-
less old Archbishop led out ten marines in a
desperate sally, drove off the assailants, and,
capturing the gun, dragged it back within the
church. A heroic priest volunteered to try to
pierce the environing hordes of besiegers and
seek aid from the Legations, not knowing that
they, too, were in deadly peril. In disguise he
stole out secretly from the defences, and was never
heard of again. One shudders to think what his
fate must have been. It is still a mystery. Under
a pitiless close-range fire the marines and priests,
worthy of their gallant leader, stood at their posts
day and night and drove back the mad rushes of
the assailants. Heedless of death, the nuns bore
water, food, and ammunition to the defenders,
nursed the wounded and sick, and soothed the
RAMBLES IN PEKIN 97
alarm of the Chinese women and children in their
care. Disease and starvation added their grim
terrors to the horrors of the situation.
Desirous of seeing the scene of this heroic
defence, I set out one day to visit the cathedral
in company with some officers of the Fusiliers and
of my own regiment. The ground being dry, we
chose rickshas for our vehicles in preference to
Pekin carts, which are as uncomfortable a form of
conveyance as any I know. Our coolies ran us
along at a good pace, for the Pekinese ricksha-men
are exceedingly energetic ; indeed, the Chinaman
is the best worker I have ever seen, with the
possible exception of the Corean boatmen at
Chemulpo. The Hong Kong dock labourers are
a model that the same class in England would
never copy. One day in Dublin I watched three
men raising a small paving-sett a few inches square
from the roadway. Two held the points of crow-
bars under it while the third leisurely scratched at
the surrounding earth with a pickaxe, pausing
frequently to wipe his heated brow and remark
that " hard work is not aisy, begob ! " I wondered
what a Chinaman would have said if he had seen
that sight.
Close to the Peitan we found ourselves in a
broad street which was being re-made by the
French, who had named it " Rue du General
Voyron" after their commander -in -chief. In it
were many newly-opened cafes and drinking-shops,
H
98 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
placarded with advertisements of various sorts of
European liquors for sale within. Turning off this
road into a narrow lane, we suddenly came upon
the gate of the Peitan.
The cathedral is a beautiful building of the
graceful semi -Gothic type of modern French
churches, lightly constructed of white stone. It is
crowned by airy pinnacles and looks singularly out
of place among the squalid Chinese houses that
crowd around it. At first we could not discern any
marks of the rough handling it had received, and
marvelled at its good preservation. But on
approaching closer, we saw that the masonry was
chipped and scarred in a thousand places. Scarce
a square yard of the front was without a bullet
or shell-hole through it. The walls were so thin
that the shells had passed through without ex-
ploding ; and it seemed almost incredible that any
being could have remained alive within them during
the hellish fire to which they had so evidently been
subjected.
We were met at the entrance by Monseigneur
Favrier's courteous coadjutor-bishop, who received
us most hospitably, took us over the cathedral and
round the defences, and explained the incidents of
the siege to us. He showed us the enormous hole
in the compound and the breach in the wall caused
by the explosion of one of the Chinese mines,
which had killed and wounded hundreds. The
ground everywhere was strewn with large iron
RAMBLES IN PEKIN 99
bullets and fragments of shells, fired by the be-
siegers. The Bishop smiled when we requested
permission to carry off a few of these as souvenirs,
and remarked with truth that there were enough
to suffice for visitors for many years. We in-
spected with interest the gun captured by the
Archbishop. Then, as he spoke no English, and
I was the only one of the party who could con-
verse with him in French, he handed us over to
the care of an Australian nun, who proved to be
a capital cicerone and depicted the horrors they
had undergone much more vividly than our pre-
vious guide had done. Her narrative of the
sufferings of the brave sisters and the women and
children was heartrending. Before we left we
were fortunate enough to have the honour of being
presented to the heroic prelate, whose courage and
example had animated the defenders. A burly,
strongly built man, with genial and open counten-
ance, Monseigneur Favrier is a splendid specimen
of the Church Militant and reminded one of the
old-time bishops, who, clad in armour, had led
their flocks to war, and fought in the forefront of
battles in the Middle Ages. His bravery was
equalled by his modesty, for he resolutely declined
to be drawn into any account of his exploits
during the siege. Long may he flourish ! A
perfect specimen of the priest of God, the soldier,
and the gentleman. As we parted from him we
turned to look again on the man so modestly
ioo THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
unconscious of his own heroism, that in any army
in the world would have covered him with honours
and undying fame.
When we looked at the extent of the defences
and compared it with the paucity of the garrison,
we could scarcely understand how the place re-
sisted attack for an hour. By all the rules of
warfare it was absolutely untenable. It is sur-
rounded on all sides within a few yards by houses,
which were occupied by the Chinese who from
their cover poured in an unceasing and harassing
fire upon the garrison. The defenders were too
few to even attempt to drive them out,* and so
were obliged to confine themselves to defeating the
frequent assaults made on them. Their successful
and gallant resistance was a feat that would be a
glorious page in the annals of any army. "Palmam
qui meruit ferat !"
Not the least remarkable of the many curious
phases of this extraordinary campaign was the
rapidity with which, when order had been restored,
the Chinese settled down again in Pekin. A few
months after the fall of the capital its streets, to
a casual observer, had resumed their ordinary
appearance ; but the wrecked houses, the foreign
flags everywhere displayed, the absence of the
native upper classes, and the presence of the
soldiers of the Allies marked the change. Burly
Russian and lithe Sikh, dapper little Japanese and
* They had only forty rifles all told.
RAMBLES IN PEKIN 101
yellow - haired Teuton roughly shouldered the
Celestial aside in the streets, where formerly the
white man had passed hurriedly along in momen-
tary dread of insult and assault. But in the
presence of the strict discipline of the troops after
the first excesses the Chinaman speedily recovered
his contempt veiled though it was now perforce
for the foreign devil. Ricksha coolies argued over
their fare, where not long before a blow would
have been the only payment vouchsafed or ex-
pected. Lounging crowds of Chinese on the side-
paths refused to make way for European officers
until forcibly reminded that they belonged to a
vanquished nation.
Shops that had any of their contents left after
the fairly complete looting the city had undergone
opened again, the proprietors demanding prices for
their goods that promised to rapidly recoup them
for their losses. Vehicles of all kinds filled the
streets, which were soon as interesting as they had
been before the advent of the Allies and a great
deal safer. Pekin carts rattled past strings of laden
Tartar camels, which plodded along with noiseless
footfall and the weary air of haughty boredom of
their kind. Coolies with streaming bodies ran their
rickshas over the uneven roadway. Heavy trans-
port waggons, drawn by European and American
horses or stout Chinese mules, rumbled through
the deep dust or heavy mud. And, thanks to the
cleansing efforts of the Allies, the formerly most
102 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
noticeable feature of Pekin was absent its over-
powering stench.
Engaging the services of a guide and interpreter,
a party of us set out one afternoon to view the
shops, with the ulterior purpose of purchasing some
of the famous pottery and silks. We went in
rickshas to Ha-ta-man Street, which is a good
commercial thoroughfare. Arrived there, we dis-
carded our man-drawn vehicles and strolled along
the high side-walks, pausing now and then to gaze
at the curious pictures of Chinese street life. Here
peddlers sat surrounded by their wares. An old-
clothes merchant, selecting a convenient space of
blank wall, had driven nails into it, and hung on
them garments of all kinds, from the cylindrical
trousers of the Chinese woman to the tarnished,
gold-embroidered coat of a mandarin, with perhaps
a suggestive rent and stain that spoke all too plainly
of the fate of the last owner. Another man sat
amid piles of footgear the quaint tiny shoes of
women that would not fit a European baby, the
slippers of the superior sex, with their thick felt
soles, the long knee boots for winter wear. Here
a venerable, white-haired Chinaman, with the beard
that bespoke him a grandfather, dozed among a
heterogeneous collection of rusty knives, empty
bottles and jampots, scraps of old iron, and broken
locks of native or European manufacture. Another
displayed cheap pottery of quaint shape and hideous
colouring, or the curious, pretty little snuff-bottles,
RAMBLES IN PEKIN 103
with tiny spoons fitted into the stopper, that I
have never seen anywhere but in China. Another
offered tawdry embroidery or tinselled fan-cases.
Piles of Chinese books and writing-desks, with
their brushes and solid blocks of ink, were the
stock-in-trade of another.
And true Oriental haughty indifference marked
the demeanour of these cheapjacks when we
searched among their curious wares for souvenirs
of Pekin. They evinced not the least anxiety for
us to buy, although they knew that the lowest price
that they would extract from us was sure to be
much more than they could obtain from a Chinese
purchaser. Their demands were exorbitant for
the commonest, most worthless article ; and they
showed no regret if we turned away exasperated at
their rapacity. One asked me fifteen dollars for a
thing which he gave eventually, after hard bargain-
ing, for one, and then probably made a profit of
fifty cents over it.
Farther on we stopped to gaze at a small crowd
assembled round a fortune-teller. A stout country-
woman was having her future foretold. The
prophet, looking alternately at her hand and at a
chart covered with hieroglyphics, was evidently
promising her a career full of good fortune and
happiness, to judge from the rapt and delighted
expression on her face.
A bear, lumbering heavily through a cumbrous
dance to the mournful strains of a weird musical
THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
instrument, was the centre of another small gather-
ing. Farther down the street a juggler had attracted
a ring of interested spectators, who, when the per-
former endeavoured to collect money from them,
melted away quite as rapidly as a similar crowd in
the streets of London scatters when the hat is
passed round.
We had noticed many peepshows being exhibited
along the side-walk, with small, pig-tailed urchins,
their eyes glued to the peepholes, evidently having
their money's worth. Curious to see the spec-
tacles with which the Chinese showman regales his
audiences, we struck a bargain with one, and for
the large sum of five cents the whole party was
allowed to look in through the glasses. The first
tableau represented a troupe of acrobats performing
before the Imperial Court. Then the proprietor
pressed a spring ; by a mechanical device the scene
changed, and we drew back from the peepholes !
The Chinese are not a moral race. None of us
were easily shocked, but the picture that met our
gaze was a little too indecent for the broadest-
minded European. We moved on.
Outside a farrier's booth a pony was being shod.
Two poles planted firmly in the earth, with a cross-
piece fixed between them, about six feet from the
ground, formed a sort of gallows. Ropes passed
round the animal's neck, chest, loins, and legs, and
fastened to the poles, half suspending him in the
RAMBLES IN PEKIN 105
air, held him almost immovable. The most vicious
brute would be helpless in such a contrivance.
Our guide, on being reminded that we desired
to make some purchases, stopped outside a low-
fronted, dingy shop, and informed us that it
belonged to one of the best silk merchants in
Pekin. We entered, and found the proprietor deep
in conversation with a friend. The guide addressed
him, and told him that we wished to look at some
silks. Hardly interrupting his conversation, the
merchant replied that he had none. Irritated at
his casual manner, our interpreter asked why he
exhibited a sign -board outside the shop, which
declared that silks were for sale within. " Oh,
everything I had was looted. There is nothing
left," replied the proprietor nonchalantly ; and he
turned to resume his interrupted conversation as
indifferently as if the plundering of his goods was
too ordinary a business risk to demand a moment's
thought Not a word of complaint at his mis-
fortune. How different, I thought, from the torrent
of indignant eloquence with which the European
shopkeeper would bewail the slackness of trade or
a fire that had damaged his property !
We were more successful in the next establish-
ment we visited, for a new stock had been laid in
since the capture of the city. But the silks were
of very inferior quality, the colours crude and
gaudy, and the prices exorbitant. So we purchased
nothing.
io6 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
We next inspected a china shop, which was
stacked with pottery from floor to ceiling. To my
mind the patterns and colouring of everything we
saw were particularly hideous, though some of our
party who posed as connoisseurs went into raptures
over weird designs and glaring blues and browns.
I was equally disappointed in a visit to a fan
shop. China is pre-eminently the land of fans,
and I had hoped to find some particularly choice
specimens in Pekin. But all that were shown me
were very indifferent badly made and of poor
design. The prettiest I have ever seen were in
Canton, where superb samples of carved sandal-
wood and ivory can be procured at a very reason-
able price. But Canton is far ahead of the capital
in manufactures, and its inhabitants possess a keen
commercial instinct. Its proximity to Hong Kong
and the constant intercourse with foreigners have
sharpened their trading faculties, and there are few
smarter business men than the Canton shopkeeper.
Strolling along the street we reached a market-
place filled with open booths, in which food of
all kinds was exposed for sale. Dried ducks, split
open and skewered, hung beside sucking - pigs.
Buckets of water filled with wriggling eels stood
on the ground. Salt fish, meat, and vegetables lay
on the stalls, which were surrounded by a chaffering
crowd. Sellers and buyers argued vehemently, and
the din of the bargaining so dear to the Oriental
heart filled the street. Women, with oiled hair
RAMBLES IN PEKIN 107
twisted into curious shapes and wound round long,
flat combs that stood out six inches on either
side of the back of their heads, toddled up on tiny,
maimed feet, and plunged into heated discussions
with the dealers. Beggars exhibited their hideous
deformities to excite the pity of the crowd, and
clutched insolently at the dresses of the passers-by
to demand charity.
Close by, a group of urchins drew water from
a well. It was in the middle of the side- walk,
and was covered with a large stone slab, pierced
with four holes only just large enough to permit
of the passage of the buckets.
On our way back to Chong Wong Foo that
afternoon we passed close to the Legation quarter,
and stopped to watch the progress of the wall
which was being built around it as a protection
against future attacks. It is simply a high wall
constructed of the enormous Pekin bricks, easily
defensible against infantry attack, but I should
doubt if it would long resist artillery fire.
The most famous place of Buddhist worship in
Pekin is the Great Lama Temple, which was,
perhaps, the wealthiest monastery in China until
Buddhism fell out of fashion. As it is still well
worthy of a visit, I made an excursion to it one
day in company with a small party. The monks
had the reputation of being extremely hostile to
foreigners ; and although Europeans could now go
in safety to most places in the capital, I was
io8 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
warned not to venture on a visit to this temple
alone.
Outside the principal entrance stands a fine
specimen of those curious Chinese structures, half
gateway, half triumphal arch. The lower portion
was of stone, the superstructure of wood. It was
crowned with three small towers, roofed with
yellow tiles, and painted with gaudy designs in
glaring colours. On either side, on stone pedestals,
were enormous lions that looked like the nightmare
creations of a demon-possessed artist. On passing
through the front gate, we found ourselves in a
paved courtyard surrounded by low, one-storied
temples standing on raised verandahs. In the
centre was a double-roofed square belfry with a
small gate in each side. On entering the court
we were at once surrounded by a clamorous crowd
of shaven-headed, yello .v-robed men of a villainous
type of countenance. These were the famous
or infamous Buddhist monks. Their dress con-
sisted of a long, yellow linen gown, confined at
the waist by a sash, trousers, white socks, and
felt-soled shoes. A more repulsive set of scoundrels
I have never seen. Their former truculence was
now replaced by a cringing servility. They
crowded round us, demanding alms, or, holding
out handfuls of small coins, offered to change our
good silver dollars into bad five- and ten - cent
pieces. Since Buddhism has ceased to be the
fashionable religion in China, its ministers have
RAMBLES IN PEKIN 109
fallen upon evil times, and subsist on charity and
the offerings of the comparatively few followers
of their creed. So visitors are vociferously assailed
for alms ; and the wily monks, with a keen eye
to business, had hit upon the idea of making a
little money by tendering small coins of a debased
currency in change for good silver pieces.
Shouldering the clamorous crowd aside, our in-
terpreter seized on one ancient priest to act as
our guide. This worthy cleric aided us to drive
off his importunate fellows, and led us through
several courts to the principal temple. Like all
the other buildings around, it was covered with a
quaint, yellow-tiled roof, and on the corners of
the gables and the projecting eaves were weird
porcelain monsters ; while below hung small bells,
which clanked dismally when moved by the wind.
The temple was high and the interior particularly
large and lofty ; for it contained a colossal image
of Buddha, seated in the traditional posture, with
crossed legs and hands holding the lotus flower
and other sacred emblems. On its face was the
abstracted expression of weary calm that is
supposed to represent the attainment of Nirvana
content. Stairs led up to galleries passing round
the interior of the building to the level of the
head of the deity, so that one could gaze into
his countenance at close range. The statue is not
so large or artistically so meritorious as the similar
images of Daibutsu at Kamakura or Hiogo in
i io THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Japan, each of which is hollow and contains a
temple in its interior. On the walls of the stair-
case, ranged on shelves, were thousands of little
clay gods, crudely fashioned and painted. Our
priestly guide refused to sell us any of these
figures, though evidently sorely tempted by the
sight of the almighty dollar. He evidently re-
frained from doing so only through fear of being
found out, not through any respect for his sacred
images. Having gazed into Buddha's face and
vainly endeavoured to experience the feeling of
rapture that it is supposed to produce, we passed
out to a balcony that ran round the exterior of
the building. We were high up above the ground,
and we looked down upon the jumble of quaint,
yellow gables, the courtyards with their lounging
groups of bullet-headed priests, and away over the
panorama of Pekin to where the tall buildings of
the Imperial city rose above a sea of low roofs.
On descending again into the temple, we looked
at the altars with tawdry ornaments, artificial
flowers, faded hangings, and fantastic gods, and
then passed out to the court. Our guide, having
extracted alms from us, led us to another but
smaller temple, and handed us over to its custodian
priest, who unlocked the door and led us within.
Round the walls were life-sized gilt images all
of one design, and an exceedingly indecent design
it was ; and we had little respect for the morals
of the ancient Chinese deified hero it represented.
RAMBLES IN PEKIN in
After visiting several other buildings containing
little of interest, we induced some of the monks
to let us photograph them. They were pleased
and flattered at the idea, and posed readily ; indeed,
one who had been standing at the other side of the
courtyard, seeing what was going on, rushed across
and insisted on joining the group, anxious that his
features, too, should be handed down to posterity.
Throwing them a handful of small coins, which
caused a very undignified scramble, we passed out
of the gate. Seating ourselves in our rickshas, we
drove to the Temple of Confucius, close by. It
is devoted to the present Chinese faith, which is a
mixture of ancestor-worship and Confucianism, and
consists of several buildings standing in pretty,
tree-shaded courts. The main temple contains long
altars, on which are nothing but tablets with
Chinese inscriptions maxims of the worthy sage.
Larger tablets hang on the walls. Confucian
chapels are not interesting ; and we were dis-
appointed at the bareness of the interior. Similar
but smaller buildings stood at the end of avenues
in the grounds, but none repaid a visit.
The cloisonn^ of Pekin is famous, and specimens
of it command a good price throughout China. It
is, however, decidedly inferior to Japanese work,
which is much better finished and of far greater
artistic merit. As I had never seen how the cloi-
sonnd is made, I paid a visit to the principal factory
in the capital. I was received by the proprietor, a
ii2 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
very amiable old gentleman, who took our party
round his establishment and showed us the process
through all the stages from the raw material to the
finished article. The place consisted of a number
of small Chinese houses, some of which served as
workshops, some were fitted up with furnaces for
firing, others occupied as residences by the em-
ployees and their families. In the first courtyard
two men were seated before a small table, making
European cigarette cases. In front of them lay the
design to be reproduced, flanked by small saucers
containing liquid enamel of various colours and tiny
brushes. One man held a square plate of copper,
and with a sharp scissors cut very thin strips from
its edges. These he seized with a pair of pincers
and deftly bent and twisted them into patterns to
correspond with the lines of the design before him.
They were then fixed on to the side of the case
with some adhesive mixture. As soon as they
were firm, the other man filled in the spaces be-
tween these raised lines with the coloured enamels
by means of a fine brush. The work was then
left to dry before being fired in the furnaces to
fix the colours. With their rude instruments these
artists for such they were fashioned the most
complicated designs of foliage, flowers, or dragons
with a marvellous dexterity, judging altogether by
eye, and never deviating by a hair's breadth from the
pattern given them. We entered a room, in which
others sat round long tables, fastening designs on
RAMBLES IN PEKIN 113
copper vases, plates, or bowls. Ornaments of all
kinds, napkin-rings, and crucifixes these, needless
to say, for foreigners were being made. Show-
cases with specimens of the finished work stood
round the walls, and the proprietor exhibited with
pardonable pride the triumphs of his art. With
rude appliances in dimly-lit rooms, these ignorant
Chinese workmen had achieved gems that the
European artist could not excel.
He then showed us the large blocks of the raw
stone which had to be ground up to form the
enamel, and explained the processes it had to under-
go before it became the brightly coloured paste that
filled the saucers on the tables. We were then
shown articles being placed in the furnaces or
withdrawn when the firing was complete. Before
leaving we purchased some specimens of the work
as souvenirs of an interesting visit, and bade good-
bye to the grateful proprietor.
Such were our rambles through the vastness of
that wonderful city so long a mystery to the outside
world. Even in these days of universal knowledge
its inmost recesses were a secret till fire and sword
burst all barriers and the victorious foreigner ranged
where he listed. The gates of palace and temple
flew open to the touch of his rifle-butt. The abodes
of monarch, prince, and priest sheltered the soldiers
of the conquerors, and the proudest mandarin drew
humbly aside to let the meanest camp-follower pass.
To me the most fascinating spectacle in Pekin
ii 4 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
was the ever-changing life of the streets. The end-
less procession of strange vehicles, from the ricksha
to the curious wheelbarrow that is a universal form
of conveyance for passengers or goods on the
narrow roads of North China. The motley crowds
Manchu, Tartar, white man, black, and yellow,
dainty, painted lady of high rank and humble coolie
woman, shaven-crowned monk and long-queued
layman, all formed a moving picture unequalled
in any city in the world. And above their heads
floated the flags of the conquering nations that had
banded together from the ends of the earth to
humble the pride of China.
CHAPTER VI
THE SUMMER PALACE
EIGHT or ten miles from Pekin lies the loveliest
spot in all North China, the Summer Palace,
the property of the Empress -Do wager. When
burning heat and scorching winds render life in
the capital unbearable, when dust-storms sweep
through the unpaved streets and a pitiless sun
blazes on the crowded city, the virtual ruler of
China betakes her to her summer residence among
the hills, and there weaves the web of plots that
convulse the world. When the feeble monarch of
that vast Empire ventured to dream of reforms that
would eventually bring his realm into line with
modern civilisation, the imperious old lady seized
her nominal sovereign and imprisoned him there
in the heart of her rambling country abode. Twice,
now, in its history has the Summer Palace fallen
into the hands of European armies. English and
French have lorded it in the paved courts before ever
its painted pavilions had seen the white blouses of
Cossacks or the fluttering plumes of the Bersagliere ;
when Japan was but a name, and none dreamt that
the little islands of the Far East would one day send
ii6 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
their gallant soldiers to stand shoulder to shoulder
with the veterans of Europe in a common cause.
Passed from the charge of one foreign contingent
to another in this last campaign, the Summer Palace
was at length entrusted to the care of the British
and Italians. Desirous of visiting a spot renowned
for its natural beauty as for its historical interest,
a party of us sought and obtained permission to
inspect it. And so one morning we stood in the
principal courtyard of Chong Wong Foo and
watched a procession of sturdy Chinese ponies
being led up for us. The refractory little brutes
protested vehemently against the indignity of being
bestridden by foreigners ; and all the subtlety of
their grooms was required to induce them to stand
still long enough for us to spring into the saddles.
And then the real struggle began. One gave a
spirited imitation of an Australian buckjumper.
Another endeavoured to remove his rider by the
simpler process of scraping his leg against the
nearest wall. A third, deaf to all threats or en-
treaties, refused to move a step in any direction,
until repeated applications of whip and spurs at
length resulted in his bolting out of the gate and
down the road. After a preliminary circus perform-
ance, our steeds finally determined to make the best
of a bad job ; and, headed by a guide, we set out for
the palace.
Our way lay at first through a very unsavoury
part of the capital. Evil-smelling alleys, bordered
THE SUMMER PALACE 117
by open drains choked with the refuse of the
neighbouring houses ; narrow lanes deep in mire ;
squalid streets of tumbledown hovels the worst
slums of Pekin. Gaunt and haggard men scowled
at us from the low doorways ; naked and dirty
babies sprawled on the footpaths and lisped an
infantine abuse of the foreign devils ; slatternly
women stared at us with lack-lustre eyes ; and
loathsome cripples shouted for charity. Splashing
through pools of filthy water, dodging between carts
in the narrow thoroughfares, we could proceed but
slowly. The heat and stench in these close and
fetid lanes were overpowering, and it was an intense
relief to emerge at last on one of the broad streets
that pierce the city and which led us to a gateway
in the wall. One leaf of the wooden doors lay on
the ground, the other was hanging half off its hinges.
Both were splintered and torn, for they had been
burst open by the explosion of a mine at the taking
of Pekin. The many-windowed tower above was
roofless and shattered. On either hand, on the
outer face of the wall, deep dints and scars showed
where the Japanese shells had rained upon them
in the early hours of that August morning, when
the gallant soldiers of Dai Nippon* had come to the
rescue of the hard-pressed Muscovites.
When the Allied Armies arrived at Tung-Chow,
thirteen miles from Pekin, a council of war was held
by the generals on the i3th August, at which it was
* Japan.
n8 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
decided that the troops should halt there on the
following day, to rest and prepare for the attack on
the capital which was settled for the i5th. For
the stoutest hearts may well have quailed at the
task before them. A cavalry reconnaissance from
each army was to be made on the I3th, with orders
to halt three miles from Pekin and wait there for
their main bodies to reach them on the i4th.
But the Russian reconnoitring party, eager to
be the first into the city and establish their claim
to be its real captors, pushed on right up to the
walls and attacked the Tung Pien gate. They
thus upset the plans for a concerted attack, and
precipitated a disjointed and indiscriminate assault.
For they stumbled on a far more difficult task than
they had anticipated, and it was indeed fortunate
for the wily Muscovites that the Japanese, probably
suspicious of their intentions, were not far off. For
the Chinese flocked to the threatened spot and
from the comparative safety of the wall poured
a devastating fire upon the Russians. The fiercest
efforts of their stormers were unavailing. General
Vasilievski fell wounded. In vain the bravest
officers of the Czar led their men forward in
desperate assaults. Baffled and beaten, they re-
coiled in impotent fury. Retreat or annihilation
seemed the only alternatives ; when the Japanese
troops attacked the Tong Chih gate. There, too,
a terrible task awaited the assailants. Again and
again heroic volunteers rushed forward to lay a
THE SUMMER PALACE 119
mine against the ponderous doors, only to fall
lifeless under the murderous fire of the defenders.
But the soldiers of the Land of the Rising Sun
admit no defeat. As men dropped dead, others
stepped forward and took the fuses from the nerve-
less fingers. The gate was at length blown open.
Fierce as panthers, the gallant Japanese poured
into the doomed city. The pressure relieved, the
Russians again advanced to the assault. An entry
was effected at last ; and, furious at their losses,
they raged through the streets, dealing death with
a merciless hand, heedless of age or sex.
Meanwhile the other Allies, roused by the sound
of heavy firing, were lost in amazement as to its
meaning ; and dawn came before the truth was
known. The British and Americans then attacked
the Chinese city and met with a less stubborn
resistance. An entry effected, the Indian troops
wandered through the maze of streets until met
by a messenger sent out from the Legations to
guide them. He led them through the water-
gate, the tunnel in the wall between the Tartar
and the Chinese city, which serves as an exit for
the drain or nullah passing between the English
and the Japanese Legations, and so right into
the arms of the besieged Europeans. Thus they
arrived first to the relief, while the Japanese and
Russians were still fighting in the streets. But
every nation whose army was represented in the
Allied Forces claims the credit of being foremost
120 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
of all into the Legations. I have read the diary
of the commander of the Russian marines in the
siege, in which he speaks of the arrival of the
Czar's troops to the relief and completely ignores
the presence of the other Allies. And in pictures that
I have seen in Japan of the entry of the relievers,
the besieged are shown rushing out to throw them-
selves on the necks of the victorious Japanese,
whose uniform is the only one represented. But,
while the brunt of the fighting fell on them and the
Russians, the Indian troops were actually the first
to reach the Legations.
As we rode up to the gate through which the
soldiers of Japan had fought their way so gallantly,
a guard of their sturdy little infantrymen at it
sprang to attention. For it and the quarter near
was in the charge of their contingent, and their
flag, with its red ball on a white ground, was to
be seen everywhere around. The sentry brought
his rifle to the present with the jerky movement
and wooden precision of an automatic figure.
Returning the salute, we clattered through the
long tunnel of the gateway and emerged beyond
the walls of the city.
Here began a wide road, paved with large stone
flags, which runs for an immense distance through
the country, stopping short at the threshold of the
capital. It was bordered in places by hedges of
graceful bamboos with their long feathery leaves.
Elsewhere a narrow ditch divided the roadway
THE SUMMER PALACE 121
from the fertile fields, where tall crops of kowliang
(a species of millet) rose higher than a mounted
man's head, almost completely hiding the houses
of tiny hamlets. Over the stone flags, sparks
flashing from under our ponies' hoofs, we clattered
past crowds of coolies trudging towards the city,
long lines of roughly built carts laden with country
produce, or an occasional long -queued farmer
perched on the back of his diminutive steed.
By fields of waving grain, past groves of thick-
foliaged trees, through trim villages that showed
no trace of the storm that had swept so close to
them. But here and there signs of it were not
wanting. A wayside temple stood with fire-scorched
walls and broken roof. On the threshold lay the
shattered fragments of the images that had once
adorned its shrine. But from the doorways of the
houses we passed the inhabitants looked out at us
with never a vestige of fear or hate, and as little
interest. In the stream of travellers setting to-
wards Pekin came a patrol of Bengal Lancers,
spear-point and scabbard flashing in the sun as
they rode along with the easy grace of the Indian
cavalryman, their tall chargers towering above our
small Chinese ponies as the sowars saluted. Farther
on we passed two men of the German Mounted
Infantry, their tiny steeds half hidden under huge
dragoon saddles. A brown dot in the distance
resolved itself into a British officer as we drew near.
He was Major De Boulay, R.A., who had charge of
122 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
the treasures of the Summer Palace. For when
the English took the place over these were collected
and locked up for safe keeping in large storehouses.
When the palace was handed back to the Chinese,
the Court sent a special letter of thanks to this
officer for his careful custody of the valuables. This
campaign was not Major De Boulay's first experi-
ence of the Far East. As an authority on the
Japanese army, when few in Europe suspected its
real efficiency as a fighting machine, he had been ap-
pointed military attache" to it when it first astonished
the world in the China- Japan War ; and he accom-
panied the troops that made the daring march that
ended in the capture of Wei-hai-wei.
Our meeting him on his way in to Pekin was a
distinct disappointment to us ; for the keys of the
godowns in which the treasures of the palace were
stored never left his keeping, and in his absence we
had no chance of seeing them. With many expres-
sions of regret for this unfortunate circumstance, he
continued on his way to the capital.
Trotting on, we reached a long village bordering
the road on each side. It was quite a populous and
thriving place. The inhabitants looked sleek and
content ; and shops stocked with gay garments or
weird forms of food abounded. Half-way down on
the left-hand side a narrow lane led off from the
highway. At the corner stood a sign-post with the
words, "Au palais de l'6teV' It was our road. We
turned our ponies down it, nothing loth, I warrant,
THE SUMMER PALACE 123
to exchange the hard stone flags for the soft ground
now underfoot. We were soon clear of the houses
and among the fields. Passing a belt of trees that
had hitherto obstructed our view, we saw ahead of
us a long stretch of low, dark hills. Far away to
our left front, from a prominent knoll a tall, slender
pagoda rose up boldly to the sky, and straight
before us, standing out on the face of the hills, was
a confused mass of buildings the Summer Palace.
We broke into a brisk canter, the canter became a
gallop, and we raced towards our goal. As we
drew nearer, and could more clearly distinguish the
aspect of the buildings, we slackened speed. On
the summit was a temple which, so one of our
party who had visited the place before told us, was
known as the Hall of Ten Thousand Ages. Below
it stood a curious circular edifice, with a triple yellow
roof. It was built on a huge square foundation, on
the face of which were the lines of a diamond-
shaped figure. These we afterwards found to be
diagonal staircases ascending to the superstructure
which was the Empress -Dowager's own particular
temple. Trees hid the lower portion and concealed
from our view a lovely lake that lies at the foot of
the hills. Passing onwards by a high-walled en-
closure, we reached a wide open space, at the far
end of which were the buildings of the palace
proper. Out in the centre of it stood one of those
Chinese paradoxes a gateway without a wall, similar
to the one at the Great Lama Temple. It was
i2 4 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
gaily painted with weird designs in bright colours.
We rode past it and reached the entrance to the
outer courtyard. At it was a guard of an Indian
infantry regiment which was quartered in the
Summer Palace. Dismounting, we passed through
the gate and found ourselves in a large court.
Facing us was a long, low building of the conven-
tional Chinese type. It was a temple. On the
verandah stood large bronze storks and dragons.
We had seen too many similar joss-houses to care
to visit it ; so we secured a sepoy to guide us
through the labyrinth of courts to the pavilion
that was occupied as a mess by the officers of the
troops garrisoning the palace a British Field
Battery and the Indian regiment. Here we were
warmly welcomed and ushered into a building of
particular historical interest; for in this very pavilion
the Emperor had been confined.
The interior was elaborately furnished. Large
mirrors covered the walls. Marble-topped tables
with the inevitable clocks and vases of artificial
flowers were placed round the sides. European
chairs and Chinese blackwood stools stood about
in curious contrast. But the piece de resistance was
a lovely screen. An inner chamber was used as a
mess-room ; and a long table covered with a white
cloth, on which stood common Delft plates and glass
tumblers, looked out of keeping with the surround-
ings. But, more regardful of the thirst induced by
a hot ride than artistic proprieties, we threw our-
THE SUMMER PALACE 125
selves into comfortable chairs and quaffed a much-
needed, cooling drink.
In front of the pavilion was a square, paved yard,
in which stood a curious scaffolding of gaily painted
poles, which had served to spread an awning above
the court. For here the imprisoned Emperor had
been permitted to walk ; and as we sat on the
verandah and gave our hosts the latest news of
Pekin, we gazed with interest on the confined space
in which the monarch of the vast Empire of China
had paced in weary anticipation of his fate.
As it wanted an hour or two to lunch-time, one
of the officers of the garrison volunteered to guide
us round the palace. We eagerly accepted his
offer and were led out into a maze of courts sur-
rounded by low houses. He brought us first to his
quarters in a long, two-storied building. From the
upper windows on the far side a lovely view lay
spread before our eyes. Below the house was a
large lake, confined by a marble wall and balustrade
that passed all round it. Close to us, on the right,
the long, tree-clad hill, on which stood the Empress-
Dowager's temple and the Hall of Ten Thousand
Ages, rose almost from the brink. To the left a
graceful, many-arched bridge stretched from the
bank to a tiny island far out in the placid water.
On it stood a small pavilion. Near the shore a
flotilla of boats was anchored. It comprised
foreign -designed barges, dinghies, and a half-
sunken steam launch. Patches of lotus leaves lay
126 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
on the tranquil surface. And away, far beyond the
lake, a line of rugged and barren hills rose up from
the plain.
Emerging from the building, we walked along by
the low wall and carved balustrade bounding the
water, towards the side above which stood the
Empress- Dowager's temple. At the corner of the
lake was a gateway, at which stood a guard of
Bersagliere, clad in white with cocks' feathers
fluttering gaily in their tropical helmets. The
Italians, as I have said, were joined with the
English in the charge of the Summer Palace.
Returning the sentry's salute, we passed on and
found a roofed and open-pillared gallery running
along beside the lake. Its shelter was grateful in
the burning sun ; for the breeze was cut off by the
hill that rose almost perpendicularly above us.
The slender, wooden columns supporting the tiled
roof were painted in brightly coloured designs.
On the cornices were miniature pictures of con-
ventional Chinese scenery. Here and there the
gallery widened out or passed close to pretty little
summer-houses built above the wall of the lake.
We reached the square white mass of masonry on
which stood the temple. Before it massive gates,
guarded by bronze lions, opened on a broad stair-
case leading to the foot of the substructure. But
reserving the sacred edifice, which towered above
us at an appalling height, for a later visit after
lunch, we passed on around the lake until we
A STREET IN THE TARTAR CITY, PEKIN, AFTER HEAVY RAIN
THE MARBLE JUNK
[page 127
THE SUMMER PALACE 127
reached the strangest construction in the Summer
Palace.
One of the former Empresses, whose life had
been passed far from the sea, complained that she
had never beheld a ship. So a cunning architect
was found, who built in the lake close to the bank
an enormous marble junk. The hull, which has
ornamented prow and stern and small paddle-boxes,
rests, of course, on the bottom. On the deck he
erected a large two-storied pavilion ; but as the
Chinese are seldom thorough, this he constructed
of wood painted to look like marble. It formed
an ideal and picturesque summer-house, for the
sides, between the pillars, were open or closed only
by blinds. But at the time of our visit it looked
dismally dilapidated ; for the paint was blistered and
peeling off. The Marble Junk resembles a white
house-boat at Henley, and at a little distance across
the water looks quaint and graceful. Close to it,
spanning a small stream that runs into the lake, is
a lovely little covered bridge with carved white
marble arches and parapets. Venice can boast no
more perfect gem of art on its canals.
Our conductor, looking at his watch, tore us
from our contemplation of this masterpiece and
insisted on our returning to the mess for lunch.
And in the pavilion where the powerless monarch
of a mighty empire had lain a helpless prisoner, a
victim to the intrigues of his own family, British
officers sat at table ; and the conversation ranged
128 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
from the events of the campaign to sport in India
or criticisms of the various contingents of the
Allied Army.
A recent occurrence, thoroughly typical of the
readiness with which the Court party snatched at
every opportunity to "save face," was alluded to.
The British Minister in Pekin, at the humble
request of Li Hung Chang, who was negotiating
about the return of the Summer Palace to the
Chinese, had removed the Field Battery garrison-
ing it to the capital. An Imperial Edict was
immediately issued, which stated in grandiloquent
terms that the Emperor had ordered this removal.
Sir Ernest Satow, who was fast proving himself a
far stronger man than had been anticipated and
well fitted to cope with Oriental wiles, promptly
commanded the return of the battery as the fitting
answer to this impudent declaration. It was almost
the first strong action taken by our diplomats in
a wearisome series of "graceful concessions"; and
great satisfaction was occasioned among the officers
of the British forces, who hailed it as a hopeful
prelude to a firmer policy.
After lunch we ascended the tree-clad hill on
which stood the Hall of Ten Thousand Ages.
From the summit a beautiful view over the sur-
rounding country was obtained. Below us was the
confused jumble of yellow-roofed buildings that
constituted the residential portion of the Summer
Palace. At our feet lay the gleaming lake, hemmed
THE SUMMER PALACE 129
in by its white marble walls, the tiny island united
to the shore by the graceful arches of the long
bridge. The bright roof of the pretty little
pavilion on it shone in the brilliant sunlight.
Along the far bank stretched a tree-shaded road
that ran away to the right until lost in thick foliage
or fertile fields. A thin line marked the crowded
highway to the capital. The plain was dotted with
villages or lay in a chessboard-pattern of cultiva-
tion interspersed with thickets of bamboos or dense
groves of trees. Far away the tall towers of the
walls of Pekin rose up above the level sea of roofs,
broken only by the lofty buildings of the Imperial
city, the temples or the residences of the Euro-
peans in the Legation quarter. Over the capital a
yellow haze of smoke and dust hung like a golden
canopy. Away to the right lay a long stretch of
dark and sombre hills, among which nestled the
summer residence of the members of the British
Legation. Here in the hot months they hie in
search of cooling breezes not to be obtained in the
crowded city.
The grandiloquently named Hall of Ten Thou-
sand Ages was a rectangular, solidly constructed
building with thick walls. But inside a sad scene
of ruin met our eyes. Enormous fragments of
shattered colossal statues choked the interior, so
that one could not pass from door to door. Huge
heads, trunks, and limbs lay piled in fantastic con-
fusion. The temple had contained a number of
130 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
giant images of Buddha. Some troops, on occupy-
ing the palace, had been informed that these were
hollow and filled with treasures of inestimable
value. The tale seemed likely ; so dynamite was
invoked to force them to reveal their hidden secrets.
The colossal gods were hurled from their pedestals
by its powerful agency ; and their ruins were eagerly
searched by the vandals. But it was found that
the interiors of the statues, though indeed hollow,
were simply modelled to correspond with the in-
ternal anatomy of a human being, all the organs
being reproduced in silver or zinc. And the gods
were sacrificed in vain to the greed of the spoilers.
The Empress -Do wager's temple had escaped
such rough treatment, as it held nothing that
tempted the conquerors. Under its huge shadow
lay a lovely little structure, the Bronze Pagoda.
On a white marble plinth and surrounded by a
carved balustrade of the same stone, stood a deli-
cately modelled, tiny temple about twenty or thirty
feet high. Roof, pillars, walls all were of the same
valuable material. From the corners of the spread-
ing, upturned eaves hung bells. The whole struc-
ture was a perfect work of art ; and one sighed for
a miniature replica of the graceful little building.
But while we wandered among these quaint
temples we had failed to notice dark masses of
clouds that had gradually climbed up from the
horizon and overcast the whole sky. One of the
heavy storms of a North China summer was
THE SUMMER PALACE 131
evidently in store for us. So, anxious to regain the
capital before it could break, we returned to the
palace, bade a hurried farewell to our kind hosts,
and mounted our ponies. Back through the fields
and on to the paved highway we rode at a steady
pace, our ponies, refreshed by the long halt and
eager to reach their stables, trotting out willingly.
The storm held off, and as we came in view of the
gate of Pekin, we congratulated ourselves on our
good fortune. But suddenly, without a moment's
warning, sheets of water fell from the dark sky.
In went our spurs, and we raced madly for the
shelter of the gateway. But long before we
reached it we were soaked through and through.
Our boots were filled with water, the broad brims
of our pith hats hung limply over our eyes, and we
were as thoroughly wet as though we had swum
the Peiho.
Under the tunnelled gateway we dismounted.
The water simply poured from us, and formed in
pools on the stone flags where we stood. We
found ourselves in a damp crowd of jostling, grin-
ning Chinamen, who were cheerfully wringing the
moisture from their thin cotton garments or laugh-
ing at the plight of others caught in the storm
and racing for shelter through the ropes of rain.
Coolies, carts, ponies, mules, and camels were all
huddled together under the archway. Jests and
mirth resounded on every side ; for the Celestial is
generally a veritable Mark Tapley under circum-
132 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
stances that would depress or irritate the more
impatient European.
We waited for an hour beside our shivering
ponies for the deluge to cease ; then, seeing little
prospect of it, we mounted again and rode on into
the city. But short as was the time the rain had
lasted, the streets were already almost flooded.
The ditch-like sides were half filled with rushing,
muddy torrents ; and in crossing one of the prin-
cipal roads the water rose up to our saddle-girths
in the side channels. In one place my pony was
nearly carried off his feet and I feared that I
would be obliged to swim for it. From the shelter
of the verandahs of the houses along the streets
crowds of Chinese laughed at our miserable plight,
as our small steeds splashed through the pools and
their riders sat huddled up in misery under the
pitiless rain. With heartfelt gratitude we reached
at last the welcome shelter of Chong Wong Foo.
So ended our visit to the famous Summer Palace,
which is once more in the possession of its former
owner. The courts that echoed to the ring of
artillery horses' hoofs, the rumble of our gun-
wheels, the deep laughter of the British soldier, or
the shriller voices of his sepoy comrades, are now
trodden only by silent-footed Celestials. The white
man is no more a welcome guest.
CHAPTER VII
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN
THE railways throughout North China and
Manchuria were originally constructed chiefly
by British capital ; and England had consequently
priority of claim upon them. The line from Pekin
runs first to the sea at Tong-ku, at the mouth of
the Peiho River, thence branching off northward
along the coast to Newchwang, the treaty port of
Manchuria. Its continuation passes southward
from Newchwang to Port Arthur. At the begin-
ning of the campaign in North China it was seized
by the Russians and held by them until diplomatic
pressure loosened their grasp. Instead of restor-
ing it direct to the British, they handed over to
the Germans the railway as far north as Shanhai-
kwan, a town on the coast where the famous Great
Wall of China ends in the sea ; but they retained
in their own possession that portion between Shan-
haikwan and Newchwang. The Germans then
held on to the remainder until they were eventually
restored to the British.
Shanhaikwan thus became the natural boundary
between the territory under the sway of the
134 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Russians and the country in the combined occupa-
tion of the Allies. The Czar's servants had laid
covetous eyes upon it ; for its position and a
number of strong and well-armed forts which had
been constructed by the Chinese rendered it an
important point d'appui whence to dominate North
China. So a powerful Russian force was de-
spatched by land to seize these fortifications ; but
it was forestalled by the smart action of the
British Admiral, who sent a gunboat, the Pigmy,
to Shanhaikwan. The captain of this little craft
audaciously demanded and actually received the
surrender of the forts ; so that when the Russians
arrived they found, to their intense surprise, the
Union Jack flying from the ramparts. Eventually,
to avoid dissensions, the various forts were divided
among the Allies.
Previous to my departure on a long-projected
trip to Japan seeing a little of Manchuria and
Corea en route I joined a small party of officers
who had arranged to pay a flying visit to Shanhai-
kwan. With light luggage and the roll of bedding
without which the Anglo-Indian seldom travels in
the East, we entrained at Tientsin. A couple
of hours sufficed to bring us to Tong-ku, where the
railway branches off to the north. The platform
was thronged with a bustling crowd of the soldiers
of many nations, the place being the disembarka-
tion port for the Continental, the American, and
the Japanese troops. In the station buildings the
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 135
British officers in charge of that section of the
railway and of the detachments guarding it had
established a mess. As we had some time to wait
before the departure of the train to Shanhaikwan,
they warmly welcomed us within its hospitable,
if narrow, walls.
When the warning bell summoned us to take our
places, we established ourselves in a comfortable
first-class carriage partly saloon, partly coupe.
I may mention that during the occupation of North
China by the Allies the wearers of uniform travelled
free everywhere on the railways. Among our
fellow-passengers were some Japanese naval officers,
a German or two, a few Russians, and an old friend
of mine, Lieutenant Hutchinson, of H. M.S. Terrible,
who had served with the Naval Brigade in the
defence of Tientsin. He had just returned from
a trip to Japan, and was full of his adventures in
the Land of the Geisha.
The railway to Shanhaikwan runs at first close to
the sea through a monotonous stretch of mud flats,
and then reaches a most fertile country with walled
villages and substantially built houses. It was
guarded by the 4th Punjaub Infantry, detachments
of which occupied the stations along the line. Not
long before, this fine regiment had been engaged
in a punitive expedition against the brigands who
had slain Major Browning. After a severe fight
they captured the fortified villages held by 4,000
well-armed banditti, and terribly avenged their
136 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
officer. As the country was still infested by roving
bands of robbers who raided defenceless villages,
the station buildings were put in a state of defence,
the walls loopholed and head-cover provided by
means of sandbags until each resembled a miniature
fort. But the brigands, after practical experience
of the fighting qualities of the gallant Punjaubis,
evinced no desire to come in contact with them
.again ; and the detachments along the line were
left to languish in inglorious ease and complain
bitterly of the want of enterprise on the part
of the robbers.
For some distance alongside the railway runs
a canal, which is largely used by the Chinese for
transporting grain and merchandise. As our train
rattled along, we passed numbers of long, shallow
boats, fashioned like dug-outs and loaded down
until the gunwale was scarcely a few inches from
the water. The half-naked boatmen toiling at their
oars paused to gaze with envy at the swift-speeding
iron horse, which covered the weary miles with such
apparent ease.
The crops here were even more luxuriant than
on the way to Pekin. Fields of ripe grain stretched
away on either side of the line, interspersed with
groves of trees or dotted with villages surrounded
by high walls, significant of the continual insecurity
of life and property in this debatable land. Here
and there were deserted mud forts.
The journey from Tientsin to Shanhaikwan occu-
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 137
pied about twelve hours. About midway the train
stopped for a short time at Tongshan, a town im-
portant for the coal mines near, which are worked
under the direction of Europeans. From the win-
dows of our carriage we could see the tall buildings
and the machinery at the mouths of the pits, which
gave quite an English character to the landscape.
For the convenience of travellers, the British officers
quartered in the place had established a refreshment
room in some Chinese buildings near the station,
and lent some Indian servants to it. As our train
was due to wait some little time, we all descended
in search of lunch, and were provided here with
quite a good meal at a very reasonable rate. Our
German fellow-passengers, ignorant of Hindustani,
found some difficulty in expressing their wants
to the Indian waiters, whose knowledge of English
was very limited. We came to the rescue and
interpreted, and gained the gratitude of hungry
men.
As we journeyed on to Shanhaikwan the country
began to lose its flat appearance. Low, tree-clad
eminences broke the level monotony of the land-
scape ; and the train passed close to a line of rugged
hills. In their recesses bands of brigands were
reported to be lurking, so we had the pleasant
excitement of speculating on the chances of the
train being held up by some of these gentry. But
without mishap we reached our destination about
half-past six o'clock in the evening.
138 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
The railway station of Shanhaikwan was large
and well built, with roomy offices and a long plat-
form. There were, besides, engine sheds, machinery
shops, yards, and houses for the European em-
ployees, all of which had been seized by the
Russians. We were met on our arrival by some
officers of the Gurkha Regiment in garrison, to
whom we had written from Tientsin to ask if they
could find quarters for us. But as they were
exceedingly short of accommodation for themselves,
being crowded together in wretched Chinese hovels,
they received us with expressions of regret that
they were unable to find room for all our party.
The two junior ones must seek shelter for them-
selves. I, unfortunately, was one. There was no
hotel or inn of any sort. My companion in dis-
tress, luckily for himself, had a friend in a squadron
of the 3rd Bombay Cavalry, quartered in one of
the forts, and set off to request his hospitality. So
our party separated ; and I was left stranded on the
platform with no prospect of a bed, and, worse
still, not the faintest idea as to where to get a
meal. On appealing to a British railway employee,
I found that there were two military officers in
charge of the station one English, the other
Russian ; for the portion of the line held by the
latter nationality began, as I have said, at Shan-
haikwan. Both had quarters in the station, but
both, unfortunately, had gone out to dinner ; and
there was no likelihood of their return before mid-
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 139
night. Taking pity on my distress, this employee
promised to send me down a Chinese cane bed
from his house, and then went off, leaving me to
brood over the hopelessness of my situation. I
sat down on a bench and cursed the name of
Shanhaikwan. The lunch at Tongshan seemed
by now a very far-off memory ; and I endeavoured
to allay the pangs of hunger with a cigar. As I
meditated on the inefficacy of tobacco as a sub-
stitute for food, I saw the door of a room marked
" Telegraph Office " open and a smart bombardier
of the Royal Marine Artillery emerge. On see-
ing me he saluted, and, snatching at every straw,
I called him over and asked him if he knew of any
place where I could get anything to eat. He told
me of the existence of a low cafe", patronised by the
Continental soldiers of the garrison, where I might
possibly obtain some sort of a meal. I jumped
eagerly at the chance ; and, calling one of the
Chinese railway porters to guide us, he offered to
show me the way. Quitting the station, we entered
a small town of squalid native houses and pro-
ceeded through narrow and unsavoury lanes until
,we reached a low doorway in a high wall. Passing
through, I found myself in a small courtyard. On
the muddy ground were placed a number of rickety
tables and rough benches. Here sat, with various
liquors before them, groups of Cossacks and
German soldiers, who stared with surprise at the
unusual sight of a British officer in such a den.
140 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
At the far end of the court was a tumbledown
Chinese house, on the verandah of which sat the
proprietor and his wife, evidently Italian or Austrian.
The lady, a buxom person of ample proportions,
was attired in a very magnificent, but decidedly
ddcolletd evening dress. Her wrists were adorned
with massive bracelets, her fingers covered with
rings. Altogether she looked a very haughty and
superb beauty and more fitted to adorn a cafe in
the Champs Elysees than a rough drinking-booth
in the heart of China. Her husband came forward
to meet me ; and on my stating my wants in im-
ploring tones, he seemed at first in doubt as to
whether he could supply them. My heart sank.
He turned to consult the lady. To my intense
astonishment this magnificent personage sprang up
at once, called to a Chinese servant to bring her a
chicken, and then, pinning up the skirt of her rich
dress, plunged into a kitchen which opened off the
verandah, and then and there, with her own fair
hands, spatch-cocked the fowl, and served me with
a welcome and appetising meal.
My hunger satisfied thus unexpectedly, I strolled
back to the station in a contented frame of mind,
indifferent to anything Fate had in store for me.
Nothing could harm me ; I had dined. I was
quite ready to wrap myself in a blanket and sleep
on a bench, or on the ground for that matter.
But my star was in the ascendant. I found a com-
fortable camp-bed of a Chinese pattern awaiting
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 141
me, sent by the kind-hearted employee. Placing
it on the platform, I spread my bedding on it,
undressed, and lay down to sleep.
But I had reckoned without the merry mosquito.
I have met this little pest in many lands. I first
made his acquaintance on the night of my arrival in
India with a raw, unsalted regiment from home ;
when he could batten on seven hundred fresh,
full-blooded Britishers and feast to the full on their
vital fluid unthinned by a tropical climate ; when
next morning the faces of all, officers and men
alike, were swollen almost beyond recognition.
I have remonstrated with him as to his claim
to the possession of the interior of a mosquito
net and failed to move him. I have scarcely
doubted when a friend vowed that he had broken
the back of a hairbrush over the head of one of
the giant, striped species we knew as " Bombay
tigers " or questioned the truth of the statement
that a man had lain on his bed and watched two
of them trying to pull open his curtains to get
at him. I have cursed him in the jungle when
sitting up in a machdn over a "kill" waiting for
a tiger. I have wrestled with him when out on
column and bivouacked beside a South China river,
where his home was ; but never have I seen him
in such wonderful vigour and maddening persistence
as during that night on the station platform of
Shanhaikwan. In vain I beat the air with frenzied
hands ; in vain I smoked. I tried to cover my
142 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
head with a sheet ; but the heat was too great,
and I emerged panting to find him waiting for me.
As Thomas Atkins says : "It h'isn't the bite of the
beggar I 'ates so much as 'is bloomin' h'irritatin'
buzz " ; and the air was filled with his song. It
was a concert with refreshments. / was the re-
freshments. To make matters worse, I had the
tantalising knowledge that I had mosquito curtains
with me, which I had been unable to fix up as the
bed was without poles.
At last, maddened by the persistent attacks of
the irritating pests, I sat up and reviewed the
situation until I hit upon a plan. I shoved the
bed under the windows of a room which looked
out on the platform and which happened to be the
quarters of the British Railway Station Officer.
The Venetian shutters opened outward. About ten
feet away was a telegraph-pole ; and a short distance
from the foot of the bed stood a lamp-post. Taking
the cords of my Wolseley valise, the straps of my
bedding and my luggage, and some string which
I looted from one of the railway offices, I contrived
to suspend my curtains from the shutters, the pole,
and the lamp-post. It was really an ingenious con-
trivance, and I lay down in triumph and security.
The bafHed mosquitoes uttered positive shrieks of
rage.
Somewhere about midnight I was awakened by
the sounds of revelry in a foreign tongue. Peering
through the curtains, I saw by the dim light of the
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 143
turned-down station lamps two figures in uniform
advancing along the platform. One was a very
drunken but merry Russian officer, who was being
carefully helped along by a sober and amused
British subaltern. They suddenly caught sight of
the white mass of my mosquito curtains, which
swayed in ghostly folds in the wind and looked
uncanny in the uncertain light.
" What the devil is that ? " exclaimed the
Englishman.
The Russian hiccoughed a reply in words that
sounded like a sneeze.
The former, gently propping up his companion
against the lamp-post to which he clung lovingly,
advanced to my bed. I recognised him by his
uniform to be our Railway Station Staff Officer.
Peering through the curtains, he asked me who on
earth I was and what I was doing there. In a few
words I explained myself and my situation. With
a soldier's ready hospitality he said
" My dear fellow, I am so sorry that I was absent.
Get up and move your bed into my quarters. I
shall be delighted to put you up."
I thanked him, but assured him that I was very
comfortably fixed for the night.
" But you can have had no dinner. Did you get
anything to eat ? " he asked.
I recounted my successful search for a meal ;
whereat he laughed and again expressed his regret
at his absence, explaining that he had gone to a
144 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
dinner-party given by the wife of a Russian colonel
on her husband's name-day.
Meanwhile his companion, still clinging tightly to
the lamp-post, had been regarding with wonder my
contrivance for the support of the mosquito curtains,
shaking his head, and muttering to himself.
The Britisher, informing me that he was the
Russian Railway Staff Officer, then spoke to him
in his own language, and introduced me to him,
mentioning a name that ended in itch or sky.
I sat up in bed and bowed. But my new acquaint-
ance, still holding to the friendly support of the
post, stared solemnly at the network of straps and
cords. At last he broke silence.
" Ver' good ! Ver' practical ! You English is
ver' practical nation." Then he hiccoughed sadly,
" I am ver' drink ! "
Thoroughly awakened, I got up, and we ad-
journed to the British officer's quarters, where we
drank to our better acquaintance in an iced whisky
and soda ; for the night was distressingly hot.
The hospitable Englishman was Lieutenant Kell,
South Staffordshire Regiment. He was a good
specimen of the linguists in our army who surprised
our Continental allies. A passed Interpreter in
Russian and Chinese, he spoke French, German,
and Italian fluently ; and, as I discovered after-
wards, although he had never been to India, he
was rapidly picking up Hindustani from the sepoys
with whom he was brought in contact through
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 145
his station duties. He had served on General
Dorward's staff during the hard fighting in Tientsin
and had been mentioned in his despatches. His
linguistic powers had caused him to be appointed
as Railway Staff Officer at Shanhaikwan, where
his ready tact and genial qualities endeared him
to the Russians and contributed greatly to the
harmonious working of affairs in that debatable
garrison.
Before we parted for the' night our Russian
friend gave us both a cordial invitation to dine
with him the following night and meet some of his
comrades. And then I retired again to bed, feel-
ing no longer a lost sheep and a homeless orphan.
In the morning I was awakened by Lieutenant
Kell's servant, who brought me my chota hazri, the
matutinal tea and toast dear to the heart of the
Anglo-Indian. He had taken my luggage into his
master's quarters, where a bath and a dressing-
room awaited me. I found my host busily engaged
in his railway work, interviewing soldiers of every
nationality. As I was in the act of wishing him
"Good morning" we suddenly observed a heavy
transport waggon, drawn by two huge horses, being
driven across the line and right on to the platform
by a Cossack, who thus thought to save himself a
ctttour to the level crossing at the far end of the
station. It was done in flat defiance of well-known
orders. Kell spoke to him in his own language,
and told him to go back. The soldier, muttering
146 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
some impertinent remark, took no notice and drove
on. At that moment a Russian colonel entered the
station. Kell immediately reported the man's dis-
obedience to him. The officer flew at the culprit,
abused him in loud and angry tones ; and if the
Cossack had not been out of reach where he sat
perched up on the waggon, I am sure he would
have received a sound thrashing. Crestfallen, he
turned his horses round and drove away; while the
colonel apologised profusely to Kell for the fault of
his subordinate and promised that the man would
receive a severe punishment for his disobedience
and impertinence to an English officer.
After breakfast one of my companions, Captain
Labertouche, 22nd Bombay Infantry, who, like
me, had been unable to find quarters among the
Gurkhas the night before, but who had been given
shelter by the officers of the 3rd Bombay Light
Cavalry, rode up to look for me. Sending away
his horse, we set out on foot to hunt up the rest
of our party in the Gurkha mess.
Our way lay first along the railway line. On the
right-hand side were the station yards, engine sheds,
and machinery shops, all now in the hands of the
Russians, who had removed the spare rolling stock
and plant found there and sent them to Port Arthur.
The Muscovite believes in war being self-support-
ing. To the left, behind the station, lay the rookery
of squalid Chinese houses, where I had hunted
for a dinner the night before. Farther away lay
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 147
Shanhaikwan. High battlements and lofty towers
enclosed the city, the sides of which ran down to
the Great Wall of China. For ahead of us, a mile
away athwart the railway, lay a long line of grass-
grown earthworks, with here and there fragments
of ruined masonry peering out among the herbage
and bushes that clothed it. It was that wondrous
fortification which stretches for more than a thou-
sand miles along the ancient boundary of China,
climbing mountains, plunging into valleys, and
running through field and forest a monumental
and colossal work that has never served to roll
back the tide of war from the land it was built to
guard. Through a wide breach in it the railway
passes on to the north, to Manchuria where the
Russian Bear now menaces the integrity of the
Celestial Kingdom. Before reaching the Wall our
way turned off sharp to the right ; so, leaving the
railway, we followed a rough country road which
led to the Chinese village that sheltered the
Gurkhas. It was crossed by a broad stream two
or three feet deep. As we were grumbling at the
necessity of taking off boots and gaiters in order to
wade it, a sturdy Chinaman strolled up and looked
extremely amused at our distress. We promptly
seized him, and made signs that we wanted him to
carry us across. The Celestial smilingly assented,
and kicked off his felt-soled shoes. Hoisting my
companion on his back, he waded with him to the
other side, and then returned to fetch me. When
148 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
we rewarded him with a small silver coin he seemed
extremely surprised ; and he made frantic signs,
which we interpreted as meant to express his desire
to remain on the spot in readiness to ferry us
over on our return. Without further difficulty we
reached the Gurkha mess, where we found our
friends on the point of setting out to visit the Great
Wall. So the whole party walked back along the
road by which Labertouche and I had come, and
at the stream found our ferryman awaiting us with
a beaming smile. He eagerly proffered his services,
and conveyed us all across in turn. Payment being
duly made, he expressed his gratitude in voluble, if
unintelligible, language.
Reaching the railway, we proceeded along it in
the direction of the Wall. The country between it
and us was flat and cultivated, though at its foot
lay a strip of waste ground. To our left ran a
rough road leading out, through the same gap as
the line, towards some forts to the north. Along it,
behind three sturdy little ponies harnessed abreast,
sped a Russian troiscka t driven by a Cossack and
containing two white-coated officers.
Arrived at the inner face of the Wall, we climbed
its sloping side and found ourselves on a broad and
bush-grown rampart. We were twenty or thirty
feet above the ground. The outer face of this
ancient fortification, which was begun in B.C. 241,
was in a better state of preservation than the inner ;
though in places it bore little resemblance to a wall.
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 149
From the ruins of an old bastion we had a splendid
view of the surrounding country. Before us a level
plain stretched away to the horizon, broken by the
ugly outlines of forts or patched with cultivated
fields and small woods. To the right the Great
Wall ran to the cliffs above the sea, which sparkled
in the distance under a brilliant sun. On its bosom
lay the ponderous bulks of a number of Japanese
warships ; for their fleet had arrived unexpectedly
at Shanhaikwan the night before. The Russian
dinner-party, which Lieutenant Kell had attended
the previous evening, had been given in the open
air, on the cliffs over the sea. The numerous guests,
nearly all officers of the Czar, could look out over
the blue water as they smoked the cigarettes with
which every Russian meal is punctuated. While
the feast was proceeding merrily trails of smoke,
heralding the approach of a fleet, appeared on the
horizon. The Russian officers gazed in surprise as
the ships came into view, and wonder was expressed
as to their nationality and the purpose of their
coming. In those troublous times, when national
jealousies were rife, no one knew that war might
not suddenly break out among the so-called Allies ;
and Slav, Teuton, Frank, and Briton might be
called on without a day's warning to range them-
selves in hostile camps. So something like con-
sternation fell upon the dinner - party when the
approaching ships were seen to be the Japanese
fleet. For the relations between Russia and Japan
150 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
were very strained at the time ; and all present at
the table wondered if the unexpected arrival of this
powerful squadron meant that the rupture had come.
But no hostile signs were made by the ships ; and,
with the motto of the trooper all the world over
" Why, soldiers, why
Should we be melancholy, boys,
Whose business 'tis to die ? "
the interrupted revelry was renewed.
Between us and the sea lay the strong and well-
armed forts that had fallen before the audacious
challenge of the little Pigmy. From their walls
floated the flags of the Allies ; and Cossacks,
German, Japanese, and Indian troops could be seen
upon their ramparts. Behind us lay the ruins of
what must have been a large fortified camp just
inside the Wall.
To the left the town of Shanhaikwan lay penned
in by its lofty but antiquated fortifications. Past it
the Great Wall ran away to the west until lost to
our sight among the slopes of a range of hills.
Here and there the climbing line was seen topping
the summit of a steep eminence, and one could
appreciate the magnitude of the task of its builders
when they set themselves to fence China from the
ravaging hordes of the unknown lands.
And away north and south stretched the thin
shining line of the railway, along which the soldiers
of the Czar hope to swarm one day to plant their
eagles once more in Pekin, never again to be
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 151
removed. As we stood on the Great Wall flocks
of snipe and duck flew past us to the south, already
fleeing before the approach of the dread winter of
Northern Asia.
We went on to pay a visit to the forts, which,
when they were held by the Chinese, had been
armed with powerful and modern guns. Concerning
one of these forts an amusing story, illustrative of
foreign guile, was told. The place was occupied
by one Power, who had quartered in it a battery
of artillery. In the re-arrangement of the garrison
of Shanhaikwan, at a council of the allied com-
manders, it was decided that this fort should be
handed over to the English. But although the
foreign General agreed at the time, all the subse-
quent endeavours of the British to induce him to
name a day for the evacuation and transfer were
fruitless. Regrets, excuses, indefinite promises
were freely made ; but some unexpected and insur-
mountable obstacle invariably intervened. At length
when the surrender of the fort could no longer be
refused, a certain date for the foreign troops to
march out and the place to be handed over to the
English was fixed. The day arrived. The re-
lieving British garrison marched up to the gate.
There they were met by the apparently bewildered
foreign commander, who expressed considerable
astonishment at their presence. When reminded
that this was the day agreed upon, he smiled
politely, and assured the British officers that they
152 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
had made a mistake. He pointed out that they
had apparently calculated by the modern style
calendar, forgetting that the old style was still in
vogue in some countries and had been adopted
by him in his reckoning. Consequently the day
had not yet come. Lost in unwilling admiration at
this clever instance of duplicity, the British were
obliged to withdraw.
On the eve of the day on which he declared that
the fort would really be evacuated, the battery
garrisoning it marched out with much pomp and
publicity. The British smiled as they watched
them go, well pleased at having got rid of them at
last. They plumed themselves on their moral
victory ; and they marched up next morning to the
fort in triumph. But the other flag was still
flying, and inside they saw the same battery whose
departure they had witnessed the evening before.
They stared in bewilderment. They could recog-
nise some of the officers and men. Then an
explanation was angrily demanded. It was readily
forthcoming. This was not the same battery as
before. Far from it. That was by this time well
on its way to the North. But by an extraordinary
coincidence another battery had suddenly and most
unexpectedly arrived during the night to the
foreign General's utter astonishment, as no intima-
tion of their coming had been vouchsafed him.
And as he had no other place to quarter them in
but the fort, he had been obliged most reluctantly
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 153
to send them there. He was desolated at the
unfortunate necessity. He offered his profoundest
regrets, and trusted that his dear allies would
realise that he was helpless. So the outwitted
British had again to withdraw. As a matter of
fact the battery had simply marched out of sight
in the evening and come back during the night.
So with baffling ingenuity the foreign General
contrived to retain the fort for some time longer
in his hands ; though he was forced to surrender
it in the end.
After inspecting several of the forts, some of our
party went off to pay a visit to the town, while
others walked down to the shore and gazed out at
the Japanese fleet and the long hull of H.M.S.
Terrible, which was lying at anchor. As we looked
at the water sparkling in the bright sunlight, it was
difficult to realise that in the winter the sea here is
frozen for several miles out from the shore. From
this fact one can form some idea of the intense cold
of the winter months in North China. And yet the
Indian troops, natives of a warm climate, suffered
comparatively little and the percentage of admis-
sions into hospital from our contingent was remark-
ably small, so well were they looked after by their
officers and so generous was the free issue of warm
clothing by the Indian Government.
In the afternoon some of us attended a cricket
match between the crew of the Terrible and the
British garrison. Hardly had the stumps been
154 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
drawn and the players gone into the refreshment
tent when some snipe settled on the pitch. An
officer quartered in a fort close to the cricket ground
sent for his gun, and secured a couple then and
there.
I dined that night with the Russian Railway Staff
Officer in his quarters in the station. They con-
sisted of two or three large and comfortable rooms.
The furniture, which had been supplied to him by
his Government, was almost luxurious, in marked
contrast with the indifferent tables and the camp
chairs with which Lieutenant Kell had to provide
himself. All through the combined occupation the
Continental Powers endeavoured to enable their
officers to present a good appearance among the
other nationalities. The Germans were especially
generous in the pay and allowances they gave to
the commissioned ranks of their expeditionary
force.
The guests that evening comprised, besides Kell
and myself, three Russian officers, one of whom
spoke English, one French, while the third could
converse only in his own language, so the conver-
sation was of a polyglot character. The dinner
began by the preliminary sakouski that is the
nearest approach I can make to its name a regular
little meal in itself of hors d'ceuvres. Caviare, stur-
geon's roe, very salt ham, brawn, and a dozen other
comestibles were served. My host asked me if I
had ever tasted vodki, and although I assured him
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 155
that I had, proceeded to make me try five differently
flavoured varieties of the national liquor With the
regular dinner the nauseatingly sweet champagne,
so much in favour with Continental peoples, was
served. On my declaring that champagne was a
wine I never drank, I was allowed to have a de-
canter of whisky and a syphon of soda-water and
permitted to help myself. Kell adhered faithfully
to claret and soda throughout the evening ; but our
Russian comrades indiscriminately mixed cham-
pagne, beer, and red or white wines, with the result
that they soon became exceedingly merry. We
were served by Chinese and a Russian soldier,
whose manner of waiting at table was perfection.
The best -trained London butler could not have
moved with more noiseless tread, or decanted the
wine more carefully.
As the meal wore on and the bottles were emptied,
the conversation waxed somewhat noisy. Our
friends were filled with the most generous senti-
ments towards England and lamented the estrange-
ment of our nations. They confessed that they had
come to China prepared to dislike the British officers
intensely ; but, in common with all their comrades
who had been brought in contact with us, their
feelings had entirely changed. They said frankly
that the hostility to England was mainly owing to
the continual opposition she offers to the natural
desire of Russia to find an outlet to the sea. As
they pointed out with truth, a great and rising nation
156 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
like theirs will not submit to be confined for ever
to the land ; that it was intolerable that their vast
Empire had not a single port free from ice all the
year round or entirely at their own disposal. For
Odessa is practically an inland harbour ; and the
Baltic is frozen in winter. Their ambition to reach
the Mediterranean entangled them in the campaign
against Turkey ; and one can understand their in-
dignation against England, who stepped in at the
last moment when Constantinople was almost in
their grasp and despoiled them of the fruits of
victory achieved at the cost of many sacrifices and
a long and bloody war. Foiled in the attempt to
reach the open sea there, they embarked on the
marvellous career of conquest which carried them
across Asia to the Pacific. And there they found
their first port, Vladivostock, useless in winter.
And if other nations had had the courage of their
convictions, they would never have been suffered
to retain Port Arthur.
But although the talk was largely political, there
was absolutely no bitterness on the part of our host
and his comrades. The conversation passed on to
a comparison of the various systems of the armies
of the world and a frank criticism of our own as
well as the other contingents of the Allied forces.
They were not very much impressed by our Indian
army. They admired the regiments they had seen,
but pitied us for the necessity we were under of
having coloured troops at all. They forgot that
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 157
a large portion of their own army can scarcely be
called European. Like all the Russians I have
met, from a Grand Duke to a subaltern, they ex-
hibited a rancorous hatred to Germany. What
they had seen of her troops in this campaign had
added neither to their respect nor their love for that
nation. In fact, the Germans did not succeed in
making themselves cordially liked by those with
whom they were brought in contact ; just as their
country may find, when her day of trouble comes,
that her friends are few. Our friends betrayed a con-
tempt, not altogether unmixed with fear, for the
Japanese ; and they marvelled at our friendship for
them. They acknowledged their bravery in the
present campaign, but doubted if they would exhibit
the same courage when pitted against white troops.
Their doubts will be resolved when the time comes.
The wine passed freely between our Russian
comrades ; but with the truest hospitality they for-
bore to press us to drink against our wish. The
dinner was extremely good, even luxurious ; and
Kell laughingly lamented to me his inability to
entertain his friends as well as his Russian colleague
could contrive to do. But here, again, I think he
was helped by his Government, for I fancy that he
received an entertainment allowance. As the wine
circulated rapidly our companions became boisterous
and showed some signs of inebriation.
Beside me sat an officer who filled the post of
military director of the railway between Shanhai-
158 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
kwan and Newchwang. I had long been desirous
of visiting Manchuria by this route, but had always
been assured that the Russians were very unwilling
to allow any foreigner, especially a British officer,
to use it ; that it was hopeless to try to obtain their
permission. As my neighbour's tongue seemed a
good deal loosened by his potations, I determined
to get him off his guard and sound him as to the
possibility of my proceeding northward to Man-
churia from Shanhaikwan. I began by telling him
that I hoped to sail in a few days from Taku for
Newchwang, and remarked that it was a pity that
the Russian authorities were so averse to British
officers visiting Manchuria. He waxed quite in-
dignant at the idea, and assured me that they were
sadly misrepresented.
"But," said I, "we would not be allowed to travel
from here to Newchwang by your railway."
"Not be allowed? Absurd! Of course you
would," he replied. " I am the director of that
section of the line ; it is under my charge. Surely
I know best."
"Oh, come," I said chaffingly, "you know that if
I wanted to travel by it you would not permit me."
" Most certainly I would. I should be delighted."
I shall pin you to that, I thought. I felt very
pleased at achieving a result that everyone had told
me was impossible, Kell among them ; so I glanced
in triumph at him. He smiled.
" Do you mean to say that I could go to New-
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 159
chwang whenever I liked by your line?" I con-
tinued to my neighbour.
"Certainly you could," he replied, draining his
glass, which I had taken care had not stood idle
during our conversation. Wine in, wit out, I
thought.
" Well, in that case," said I, " I will cancel my
passage by steamer and start by rail from here to-
morrow."
" Eh ? Oh ! You are serious ? You really wish
to go by train ? " he stammered, taken aback.
" Yes ; I shall telegraph to the Steamship Com-
pany at Tientsin in the morning, and start by the
first train I can get."
For a second my friend seemed disconcerted.
The other Russians had been following our conver-
sation with interest. Suddenly sobered, my neigh-
bour spoke to them in a low tone ; and a muttered
colloquy took place. Then he turned again to me
and said, with a smile of innocent regret
" I am so sorry. It would be impossible for you
to start so soon. The railway has been breached
in several places by floods, and three bridges have
been washed away. The line is broken and all
traffic suspended. It is most unfortunate."
I realised that I had caught my Tartar.
" How soon do you think I could travel ? " I
asked.
" Oh, not for several days, I am afraid," was the
answer, in a tone of deep sympathy for my dis-
160 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
appointment. " The repairs will take some time
as the damage is extensive."
I saw that I was no match for Russian wiliness,
and retired from the contest.
" It is very unfortunate. But perhaps, after all,
it would be best to go by sea."
"Yes, yes," he assented eagerly. " It would be
very difficult, even dangerous, by the railway."
Then the host interposed and changed the con-
versation. But at the end of the evening, when all
the Russians had imbibed freely, my neighbour for-
got his caution. When bidding me good-night, he
insisted on giving me his address in Newchwang,
where he usually resided, being then only on a visit
to Shanhaikwan. He cordially invited me to come
and see him.
"But I fear that I shall have come and gone be-
fore you can possibly arrive there," I said. "We
leave Taku in three or four days ; and it is not
twenty-four hours' sail from there to Newchwang.
So I shall have left before you can get there."
" Oh, not at all," he said unguardedly. " I am
leaving Shanhaikwan for Newchwang to-morrow
morning by a train starting at ten o'clock. So be
sure to come and see me."
I smiled to myself as I shook his hand. No
wonder Russian diplomacy prospers.
That dinner was the merriest function at which I
had assisted for a long time. Our friends were
excellent boon companions, and the conversation
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 161
in divers tongues never flagged. Tiny cigarettes
were handed round between each course; and the
menu comprised many delicacies that came as a
pleasant surprise in the wilds of China. When the
meal was ended and cigars were lit, my host asked
me whether I would prefer coffee or th a la Russe.
As I had always understood that this latter bever-
age was prepared from a special and excellent
blend of tea and flavoured with lemons, I voted
for it. To my horror, the soldier-servant brought
me a long tumbler filled with an amber-coloured
liquid and proceeded to stir a large spoonful of
jam in it. The mixture was not palatable, but
courtesy demanded that I should drink it. I de-
clared the concoction delicious, drained my glass and
set it down with relief. The attendant promptly
filled it up again, my host insisting that as I liked it
so well, I must have more. It nearly sufficed to
spoil my enjoyment of the whole dinner.
During the evening, whenever our companions
were not observing me, I replenished my glass with
plain soda-water, and my brother officer had re-
mained faithful to his weak beverage. Consequently,
at the end of dinner we were perfectly sober ; while
our host and his friends who had imbibed freely were
well, the reverse. Conscious of their own state
and contrasting it with ours, they gazed at us in
admiration, and exclaimed, " These English officers
have the heads of iron." We parted at a late hour.
With many expressions of mutual friendship and
M
162 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
goodwill, the party broke up ; and so ended a very
interesting and enjoyable evening. No longer a
homeless outcast, I retired to rest in the friendly
shelter of Kell's quarters.
During the night I was dimly conscious of heavy
rain but slept on unregarding. When I rose in the
morning I found that a change had come over the
scene. A burning sun no longer blazed overhead.
The sky was dark with leaden clouds ; the rain was
falling with tropical violence, and all the landscape
beyond the station was almost invisible. Already
the line was covered with water; and fears were ex-
pressed by the staff that a freshet might occur in
the hills and the railway be rendered impassable
and possibly be breached. As the day wore on,
these apprehensions became intensified. In the after-
noon the train from Tong-ku steamed in, literally
ploughing its way through the water. The driver
reported that not many miles from Shanhaikwan the
floods were out and as his engine passed through
them the fires were nearly extinguished. Another
hour would render the line impassable. Pleasant
tidings these for me; for our party purposed return-
ing to Tientsin on the morrow, and some of us were
starting for Japan the day after.
My rambles that afternoon were confined to the
station platform and the house of some friends of
Kell's, who, learning of my forlorn state, had most
kindly asked him to bring me there for lunch and
dinner. They were connected with the railway;
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 163
and the ladies of the family had passed through an
anxious time during the troubles, but had bravely
refused to seek safety in flight.
Next day the rain still continued. Reports came
in that the line was impassable. The station was
completely isolated from the rest of the world.
Those of my party who were living with the
Gurkhas, ignorant of the fact that no train could
start, essayed to drive down to it in native carts.
The stream over which the friendly Chinaman had
carried us was in flood ; and as they endeavoured to
cross it, horses, vehicles, and passengers were nearly
swept away. One smaller cart with their luggage
was carried some distance down from the ford ; and
kit-bags and portmanteaus were only rescued with
the greatest difficulty. An invaluable collection of
films and negatives belonging to one of the party,
who was an expert photographer, was entirely spoilt.
It was a real loss, as they contained a complete
pictorial record of North China.
The low ground behind the station was flooded.
I watched with amusement the antics of a number
of Cossacks, who, heedless of the rain, had got
together planks and old doors torn off ruined houses,
and, using them as rafts, had organised a miniature
regatta on the pond thus formed. Exciting races
took place ; and a friendly dispute over one resulted
in a naval battle full of comic incidents. Like
schoolboys, they charged each other's rafts and
if capsized continued the struggle in the water.
164 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
One, diving beneath the surface, would suddenly
reappear beneath an enemy's vessel, tilt it on end,
and precipitate the occupants into the muddy flood,
to be immediately grappled by them and ducked.
In the morning a letter from Captain Labertouche
was brought me by a trooper of the $rd Bombay
Light Cavalry, who had been forced to swim his
horse across a swollen stream in order to reach the
station. I chatted for some time with the man a
fine, lithe specimen of the Indian sowar. Anxious
to hear every expression of the impression which
the Russian troops had made upon our native rank-
and-file, I asked him his opinion of them.
" They are not bad, sahib," he replied in Hindu-
stani. Then, with an expressive shrug, he added,
" But they will never get into India."
The remark was significant, for it showed not
only what our men thought of the soldiers of the
Czar, but also that the possibility of the Russian
invasion is occasionally discussed amongst them,
only to be dismissed with contempt.
Our Indian contingent, one and all, have con-
ceived a wonderful disdain of most of the troops
of the other nationalities with whom they were
brought in contact in China. They had the
greatest admiration and affection for the gallant
little Japanese, but considered their training obso-
lete. The Russians they regarded with little
respect and no dread, and looked upon them as
scarcely civilised. The Infanterie Coloniale, of
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 165
whom they saw a good deal, filled them with the
greatest contempt, undeserved though it was, for
the whole French army. And I wish that the
armchair critics, who condemn our forces and hold
up the Germans as models to be slavishly followed
in every respect, could have heard the opinion
formed of them by these shrewd fighting men,
Sikh, Gurkha, and Punjaubi, whose lives have been
passed in war.
An instance of the friendship existing between
our sepoys and the Japanese came under my notice
that day. On the railway platform some Gurkhas
and a few of the 4th Punjaub Infantry were loiter-
ing or sitting about watching the heavy rain.
Three or four Japanese soldiers came into the
station and promptly sat down beside the Gurkhas,
greeting them with effusive smiles. I was struck
by the similarity in feature between the two races.
Dressed in the same uniform, it would be difficult
to distinguish between them. They are about the
same height and build, and very much alike in face ;
though the Japanese is lighter coloured. Before
long the mixed party were exchanging cigarettes
and chatting away volubly ; though the few words
of English each knew, eked out by signs, could
have been the only medium of intercourse.
A Pathan sepoy was sitting alone on a bench.
To him came up another little white- clad soldier
of Dai Nippon. He proffered a cigarette and
gesticulated wildly. Before I realised his meaning,
166 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
he had removed the Pathan's /a^rz from his head,
replaced it with his own cap, and donned the
borrowed headgear himself. Then he strutted up
and down the platform amid the laughing applause
of his comrades and the Gurkhas. The Pathan,
highly amused, joined in the merriment. I had
noticed a Dogra sepoy standing by himself with
eyes fixed on the ground, lost in deep thought.
Suddenly a cheery little Japanese soldier, motion-
ing to the audience on the benches not to betray
him, stole up quietly behind the Dogra, seized him
round the waist, and lifted the astonished six-foot
sepoy into the air. Then with a grin he replaced
him on his feet, and with mutual smiles they shook
hands.
When the day comes for our Indian army to
fight shoulder to shoulder with its comrades of
Japan, a bond stronger than a paper alliance will
hold them ; and their only rivalry will be as to which
shall outstrip the other in their rush on the foe.
All that day reports of houses used as barracks
half collapsing under the heavy rain reached the
station. My friends who were living with the
Gurkha officers were nearly washed out.
Once during the occupation of Shanhaikwan,
when a similar deluge rendered the Chinese huts
occupied by some foreign troops there untenable,
their commander sought the aid of the colonel of
the Gurkha Regiment, who offered to share the
village in which his men were quartered with the
A TRIP TO SHANHAIKWAN 167
others. The offer was gratefully accepted. The
Gurkhas made their guests welcome ; but the latter
soon began to jeer at and insult them, and call
them coolies the usual term of reproach which
the Continental troops hurled at our sepoys. Now,
the Gurkhas are not naturally either pacific or
humble ; and it was only with the greatest difficulty
that the fiery little soldiers were restrained from
drawing their deadly kukris and introducing the
guests to that national and favourite weapon.
On the conduct of his men being reported to the
foreign commander, he sent a written, but not
very full, apology to the Gurkha colonel.
Towards evening the rain ceased, and the floods
subsided as rapidly as they had arisen. So the
following day saw us on our way back to Tientsin.
At one of the stations an old friend of mine entered
our carriage. He was an officer of the 4th Pun-
jaub Infantry, Captain Gray, the son of a well-
known and very popular Don of Trinity College,
Dublin. He had just received a report from the
native officer commanding a detachment in a village
near the canal which runs beside the railway. This
jemadar had been sitting in front of his quarters
watching the boats pass, when something about one
of them aroused his suspicion and caused him to
order the boat to stop and come into the bank.
Three Chinamen in it sprang out and rushed away
into the high crops. The boat was laden with cases,
which, on search, proved to contain eighty new
168 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
barrels of Mauser and Mannlicher magazine rifles.
Besides these there were five boxes of cartridges
and several casks of powder. This is but a small
instance of the enormous extent to which the
smuggling of arms goes on. The brigands were
provided with weapons of the latest pattern and
excellent make. The Germans are the chief
offenders here as in Africa and elsewhere.
Another officer of the 4th Punjaub joined our
train later on. He was Lieutenant Stirling, who
worthily gained the D.S.O. for his brave exploit
when Major Browning, of his regiment, fell in an
attack with eighty men on walled villages held by
thousands of brigands. Stirling refused to abandon
the body, and carried it back, retiring slowly over
seven miles of open country, attacked by swarms
of mounted robbers, who feared to charge home
upon the steady ranks of the gallant Punjaubis.
He was wounded himself in the fight.
In the evening we arrived at Tientsin.
CHAPTER VIII
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST
HONG KONG AND THE KOWLOON HINTERLAND
HONG KONG
EOGRAPHICALLY, of course, Hong Kong
is very far from North China. But it was
the base of our expeditionary force in the recent
campaign. From it went the first troops that helped
to save Tientsin ; and one brigade of Indian regi-
ments was diverted from General Gaselee's com-
mand to strengthen its garrison. For in the event
of disturbances in Canton, or a successful rebellion
in the southern provinces, it would have been in
great danger. As our base for all future operations
in the Far East, it is of vast military as well as
naval and commercial importance and well merits
description. In complications or wars with other
Powers, Hong Kong would be the first point in
the East threatened or assailed. Lying as it does
on what would be our trans- Pacific route to India,
it is almost of as much importance to our Empire
as Capetown or the Suez Canal. Its magnificent
dockyards, which are capable of taking our largest
battleships on the China station, are the only ones
169
i;o THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
we possess east of Bombay ; and so it is of equal
value to our fleet, besides being the naval base for
coal, ammunition, and supplies, without which the
finest ship that floats would be helpless.
Looked at from other than a military point of
view, Hong Kong is an object-lesson of our Empire
that should fill the hearts of Imperialists with
pardonable pride. A little more than half a century
ago it was but a bleak and barren island, tenanted
only by a few fisherfolk. It produced nothing, and
animal life could scarce be supported on it. But
now, touched by the magic wand of British trade,
how wonderful is the transformation ! A magnifi-
cent city, with stately buildings climbing in tier
after tier from the sea. The most European town
between Calcutta and San Francisco. The third,
some say the second, largest shipping port in the
world. The harbour to which turn the countless
prows of British, American, German, French,
Austrian, and Japanese vessels ; where the vast
current of the trade of the world with the Far
East flows in, to issue forth again in an infinitude
of smaller streams to every part of China and the
Philippines.
Yet, though the barren hillsides are covered with
houses, though a large population of white men
and yellow inhabit it, and its harbour is crowded
with shipping, the island itself is still as unpro-
ductive as ever. Not merely is mineral wealth
unknown and manufactures practically nil, but
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 171
Hong Kong cannot provide enough of foodstuffs
to support its inhabitants for half a day. From
Canton, almost a hundred miles away up the Pearl
River, comes everything required to feed both
Europeans and Chinese. Each morning the large,
flat-bottomed steamers that ply between the two
cities carry down meat or cattle, fish, rice, vege-
tables of all kinds, fruit, even flowers ; and were
communications interrupted by storm or war for
a few days, Hong Kong would starve. For neither
the island nor the couple of hundred square miles
of adjacent mainland, the Kowloon Hinterland,
which we took over in 1898, could produce enough
to feed one regiment ; and although two months'
supply of provisions for the whole population, white
and yellow, is supposed to be stored, it is never
done. Therein lies Hong Kong's great danger.
Let Canton refuse or be prevented from feeding
her, and she must starve.
The secret of her rapid rise and present great-
ness lies in the fact that she is the great mart, the
distributing centre, whence European or American
goods, arriving in large bottoms, are sent out again
in small coasting steamers or junks to reach the
smallest markets for Western commerce. And her
prosperity will continue and be vastly increased if
the long - projected railway to Canton, to meet
another tapping the great inland resources of
China, is ever built ; although the Americans fondly
172 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
hope that Manilla under their energetic rule will
one day rival and even excel her.
Hong Kong is an island of irregular shape, about
nine miles in length and six miles broad in its
widest portion, and consists of one long chain of
hills, that rise almost perpendicularly from the sea.
Scarcely the smallest spot of naturally level ground
is to be found. Around are countless other islands,
large and small, all equally mountainous. It lies
close to the Chinese mainland, the Kau-lung, or
Kowloon Peninsula; and the portion of sea en-
closed between them forms the harbour. At one
extremity of the island this is a mile across ; and at
the other it narrows down to a strait known as the
Lyeemoon Pass, only a quarter of a mile broad.
In the centre the harbour is about two miles in
width. The high hills of island and mainland for
the latter is but a series of broken, mountainous
masses rising two or three thousand feet shelter it
from the awful typhoons that ravage the coast.
Approaching Hong Kong by steamer there lies
before us a confused jumble of hills, which gradually
resolve themselves into islands fronting the moun-
tainous background of the mainland. All, without
exception, spring up from the water's edge in steep
slopes, with never a yard of level ground save
where an occasional tiny bay shows a small stretch
of sparkling sandy beach. Granite cliffs carved
into a thousand quaint designs, or honeycombed
with caverns by the white - fringed waves ; steep
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 173
grassy slopes, with scarcely a bush upon them,
rising up to a conical peak ; here and there a
fisher's hut, the only sign of human habitation-
such are they almost all. At last one larger than
the others. On the long ridge of the lofty summits
of its hills the slated roofs and high walls of Euro-
pean buildings outlined against the sky, and we
know that we are nearing Hong Kong. Swinging
round a bluff shoulder of this island, we enter the
land - locked harbour. On the right the myriad
houses climbing in terraces above each other from
the water's edge, long lines of stately buildings, the
spires of churches come into view. It is the city of
Victoria, or Hong Kong. The harbour, sheltered
by the lofty hills of island and mainland, is crowded
with shipping. The giant bulks of battleships and
cruisers, the tall masts of sailing vessels, the gaily
painted funnels of passenger and merchant steamers,
the quaint sails and weird shapes of junks, the
countless little sampans or native boats, a numerous
flotilla of steam launches, rushing hither and thither.
Ahead of us the hills of island and mainland ap-
proach each other until they almost touch, and
tower up on either hand above the narrow channel
of the Lyeemoon Pass. On the left a small, bush-
clad, conical isle, with a lighthouse Green Island ;
another, long and straggling Stonecutters' Island,
with the sharp outlines of forts and barracks and
the ruins of an old convict prison.
Behind them the mainland. A small extent of
174 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
comparatively level land covered with houses, the
curving line of a pretty bay, low, pine-clad hills.
This is the very modern suburb of Kowloon, which
has been created to take the overflow of European
and Chinese population from Hong Kong. Here
will be the terminus of the railway to Canton
when it is built. And behind, towering grim and
dark to the sky, stands a long chain of barren
mountains that guard the approach from the land-
ward side. Behind them range upon range of
other hills. Such is the Kowloon Peninsula.
Hong Kong, with the blue water of its harbour,
the dark hills towering precipitously above the
town, the walls of whose houses are gaily painted
in bright colours, is one of the loveliest places on
earth. After long days on board ship, where the
eye tires of the interminable monotony of sea and
sky, it seems doubly beautiful. And one marvels
to find this English lodgment on the coast of China
a city of stately buildings, of lofty clubs and many-
storied hotels, of magnificent offices and splendid
shops, of well-built barracks and princely villas.
The town of Victoria for Hong Kong, though
used for it, is really the name of the island stretches
for miles along the water's edge, being for the most
part built on reclaimed ground ; for the hills thrust
themselves forward to the sea. Up their steep sides
the houses clamber in tier upon tier until they end
under the frowning face of a rocky precipice that
reaches up to the summit. And there along its
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 175
ridge, which is called the Peak, 1,800 feet above the
sea, are more houses. Large hotels, villas, and
barracks for it is fast becoming the residential
quarter for Europeans are perched upon its nar-
row breadth, seemingly absolutely inaccessible from
below. But a thin, almost perpendicular, line against
the face of the hill shows how they are reached by
a cable tramway, which, in ten minutes, brings its
passengers from the steamy atmosphere of Victoria
to the cool breezes of the Peak another climate
altogether.
The city practically consists of one long street,
which runs from end to end of the island and is
several miles in length. On the steep landward
side smaller streets run off at right angles and
climb the hills, many of them in flights of steps.
On the slopes above the town are one or two long
roads parallel to the main street and consisting alto-
gether of residential buildings, churches, convents,
and schools.
But this main street Queen's Road as it is
named is wonderful. At the western extremity
near Belcher's Fort, the end of the island round
which our steamer passed, it begins in two or three-
storied Chinese houses, the shops on the ground
floor being under colonnades. Then come store
and warehouses, offices, and small Chinese shops
where gaudy garments and quaint forms of food are
sold, interspersed with saloons, bars, and drinking-
shops of all kinds, which cater for merchant sailors,
176 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
soldiers, and bluejackets of every nationality, the
well-paid American tars being most in evidence
among their customers. Beyond this the Queen's
Road is lined with splendid European-looking shops
with extensive premises and large plate-glass fronts,
finer than many in Bond Street or Regent Street,
though not as expensive. Some of them, mostly
kept by Chinamen, sell Chinese or Japanese curios,
silver-work or embroideries, pottery or blackwood
furniture. Others, generally, though not always, run
by Europeans, are tailoring and millinery establish-
ments, chemists, book or print shops. The side-
walks run under colonnades which afford a grateful
shade. Here are found a few of the smaller hotels ;
and the magnificent caravanserai of the high Hong
Kong hotel stretches from the harbour to the street.
Then come some fine banks, the building of the
Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation
being a splendid piece of architecture. Opposite it
a sloping road, with lovely fern-clad banks and trees,
leads upward to the cathedral and to Government
House. Past the banks, a little back from the
thoroughfare, is the fine City Hall, which contains
a museum and a theatre, as well as large ball and
concert rooms, in which most of the social gaieties
of Hong Kong take place.
Here occurs the one break in the long line of
the Queen's Road. On the seaward side, fenced
in by railings, lies the cricket-ground with its pretty
pavilion. Between it and the harbour stands the
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 177
splendid structure of the Hong Kong Club, a mag-
nificent four-storied building. Few clubs east of Pall
Mall can rival its palatial accommodation. From
the ground-floor, where billiard-rooms and a large
bowling alley are found, a splendid staircase,
dividing into two wings, leads to a magnificent
central hall on the first floor. Off this is a large
reading-room, where a great number of British,
American, and Continental journals are kept.
Electric fans, revolving from the ceiling, cool the
room in the damp, hot days of the long and un-
pleasant summer. On the same floor are the
secretary's offices, a luxurious public dressing-room,
and a large bar, which opens on to a wide verandah
overlooking the harbour. From it one can gaze
over the water, crowded with shipping, to the
rugged hills of the mainland. In front lie the
warships of many nations. Close inshore is a
small fleet of sampans crowded together, their
crews, male and female, chattering volubly or
screaming recriminations from boat to boat. From
a tiny pier near the Club the steam pinnace of an
American man-o'-war shoots out into the stream,
passing a couple of gigs from British warships
conveying officers in mufti ashore.
On the next floor are the dining-rooms and a
splendid library. Above these again are the
members' bedrooms, bath and dressing rooms.
Altogether, internally and externally, the Club is
178 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
worthy to rank with almost any similar institu-
tion in the Empire.
On Queen's Road, facing the cricket-ground, is
a small, square open space below the cathedral,
raised above the level of the street, as the ground
slopes upward. It is known as the Garrison
Brigade Parade Ground. During the recent cam-
paign it was used as the store-ground of the Indian
Commissariat, where huge mat-sheds covered enor-
mous piles of supplies for the troops in China.
Here the hard- worked base commissariat officer,
Major Williams, watched the vast stores arriving
daily from India, and despatched the supplies for
the army in the North and the Indian brigades at
Shanghai and Kowloon. Beside the parade ground
a road climbs the hill and passes the station for the
cable tramway, which is but a short distance up.
Beyond this one gap in its continuous fencing of
houses the Queen's Road runs on past the Naval
Dockyard where Commodore Sir Francis Powell,
K.C.M.G., had such heavy labour all through the
troublous time in China and the Provost Prison
on the seaward side, and the barracks of the British
troops and the arsenal on the other. Then the
military hospital and the ordnance yards, crowded
with guns, from the twelve-inch naval monsters to
the stubby howitzers or long six-inch on field-car-
riages. Then more barracks. Then it runs on
again into Chinese shops, their upper stories used
as boarding-houses for Celestials ; and, turning down
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 179
to the harbour and following the shore line, it is
bordered with coal-yards, godowns, and warehouses.
Near this end are the two open spaces of the
island, where the hills, retreating from the sea, have
left valleys which the sport-loving Britisher has
seized upon for recreation grounds. The first and
larger one, known as the Happy Valley, is a lovely
spot. All around the tree-clad hills ring it in, rising
precipitously from its level stretch on which is a
racecourse, its centre portion being devoted to other
games. A fine grand stand is flanked by a block
of red -brick buildings, the lower stones of which
are used during race meetings as stables for the
horses and ponies running. The upper, with open
fronts looking out on the course, are used as
luncheon rooms, where the regimental messes, the
members of the clubs, and large hongs (or merchant
firms) and private residents entertain their friends
during the meetings. Surely no other racecourse
in the world is set in such lovely scenery as this in
its arena, surrounded by the mountains that tower
above it on every side. And that a memento
mori may not be wanting in the midst of gaiety,
just behind the grand stand lie the cemeteries
Christian, Mussulman, Hindu, and Parsee. Up
the sides of the steep hills the white crosses and
tombstones gleam amongst the dark foliage of the
trees ; and the spirits of the dead can look down
from their graves upon the scene of former
pleasures.
i8o THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
A little farther on is another and smaller valley
used as a polo ground. Previous to the advent of
the Indian troops in 1900 the game was played
here almost exclusively on Chinese ponies. But the
Arabs used by the officers of the 22nd Bombay
Infantry, by that excellent sportsman, H. H. Major,
the Maharajah of Bikanir, and other members of
the China expeditionary force, so completely
outclassed the diminutive Chinese ponies that a
revolution was caused in the class of animals re-
quired for the game. Small Walers from Australia
and Arabs from India have been freely introduced,
much to the benefit of polo in Hong Kong.
At the polo ground the city ends at present ;
though every day its limits are extending. From
here the road runs along close to the sea, protected
from the waves by a wall, and clinging to the flanks
of the hills. It passes an occasional row of Chinese-
occupied houses, a lone hotel or two, the site of
the immense new docks in process of construction,
large sugar works, with a colony of houses for its
employees, and an overhead wire tramway leading
to their sanatorium on the high peak above, until
it reaches the Lyeemoon Pass. Here the hills
narrow in and press down to the sea, thrusting
themselves forward to meet the hills of the main-
land on the other side. A strait, only a quarter of
a mile broad, separates them ; and here on either
hand, high above the water, stand modern and
well-armed forts, which, with a Brennan torpedo,
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 181
effectually close the narrow entrance of the harbour
to any hostile ships that venture to force a passage.
Thus ends the northern and more important side
of the island. On the southern and ocean-ward
shore lie the ill-fated and practically deserted
towns of Stanley and Aberdeen, where many years
ago the British troops garrisoning them were so
decimated by fever and disease that this side of
the island was abandoned, and Victoria has become
practically Hong Kong.
The Peak is altogether another world from the
city that lies in the steamy atmosphere below.
Let us ascend in one of the trams that are dragged
up to the summit by the wire cables. Seated in
the car, we are drawn up rapidly at a weird and
uncomfortable angle ; for the slope of the line is, in
places, i in 2. Up the steep sides of the hill we
go, feeling a curious sensation as we are tilted back
on the benches and see the trees and houses on
each side all leaning over at an absurd angle.
Even such a respectable structure as a church
seems to be lying back towards the hillside in a
tipsy and undignified manner. This curious optical
effect is caused by the inclined position of the roof
and floor, as well as of the passengers, with the
horizontal. We pass over a bridge across a pretty
road lined with stone villas, by large and well-built
houses that grow fewer and fewer as we mount
upward. Here and there we stop at a small plat-
form representing a station, where passengers come
182
on or leave the tram. The down car passes us
with a rush. The long ridge of the Peak, crowned
with houses, comes into view. Turning round in
our slanting seats we look down on the rapidly
diminishing city and the harbour, now a thousand
feet below us. At last we reach the summit and
step out on a platform with waiting-rooms, the
terminus of the line. Now we see how the wire
cable runs on over pulleys into the engine-house
and is wound round the huge iron drums.
As we stand on the platform there towers above
us, on the left, a large and many-windowed hotel,
the Mount Austin. Along the fronts of its three
stories run verandahs with arched colonnades. This
is a favourite place of resort for visitors ; and many
residents, unwilling to face the troubles of house-
keeping, take up their permanent abode here.
Outside the station is a line of waiting coolies,
ready to convey passengers in their open cane
sedan chairs with removable hoods. A Sikh
policeman standing close by keeps them in order
and cuts short their frequent squabbles. The road
and paths, which are cemented and provided with
well-made drains running alongside to carry off the
torrential rains of the summer and thus prevent the
roadway from being washed away, are too steep in
their ascents and descents to make the ricksha
Hong Kong's favourite vehicle useful up here.
Standing on the narrow ridge of the Peak, we can
look down upon the sea on either hand. A wonder-
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 183
ful view unfolds itself to our gaze. On the northern
side the city of Victoria lies almost straight below
us, its streets and roofs forming a chessboard-
pattern. We can easily trace the long, sinuous line
of the Queen's Road. From this height the largest
battleships and mail steamers in the harbour look no
bigger than walnuts. Beyond, the suburb of Kow-
loon lies in sharp lines and tiny squares ; and behind
it rise up the hills of the mainland, dwarfed in size.
Now we can see plainly the interminable ranges
of mountains chain after chain of the Kowloon
Peninsula, with the lofty peaks of Tai-mo-shan and
Tai-u-shan over 3,000 feet high. The coastline is
straggling and indented with numerous bays, the
shores rising up in steep, grassy slopes to the hills
or presenting a line of rocky cliffs to the waves.
Here and there pretty cultivated valleys run back
from the sea to the never-far-distant mountains.
Turning round, we look down the grass-clad
slopes of the south side of the island to tiny, sandy
bays and out over the broad expanse of the sea, in
which lie many large and small islands. Over a
hundred can be counted from the elevation of the
Peak. Close by, to the west, is the largest of them
all the barren and treeless Lantau, which was once
nearly chosen instead of Hong Kong as the site
of the British settlement. Below us, on the southern
shore of our island, lie the practically abandoned
towns of Stanley and Aberdeen.
Along the ridge the road passes by large and
184 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
well-built villas, barracks, the Peak Club, a church,
and many boarding-houses. The European inhabi-
tants of Hong Kong are rapidly abandoning the
lower levels and taking up their residence here,
where the climate, with its cool and refreshing
breezes, is delightful in the long summer when
Victoria swelters in tropical heat. During the rainy
season, however, the Peak is continually shrouded
in damp mists; and fires are required to keep rooms
and spare garments dry. The saying in Hong Kong
is : "If you live on the Peak your clothes rot ; if in
Victoria you do. Choose which you value more
and take up your habitation accordingly."
The cable tramway is a comparatively recent in-
stitution ; so that when the houses on the summit
were being built all the materials had to be carried
by coolies up a steep, zigzagging road from below.
Even now most of the supplies for the dwellers on
the heights are brought up in the same primitive and
laborious fashion. In the morning the trams are
crowded with European merchants, bankers, solici-
tors and their clerks, descending to their offices in
the city. In the afternoon they are filled with the
gay butterflies of society going up or down to pay
calls, shop, or play tennis and croquet at the Ladies'
Recreation Ground, half-way between the Peak and
Victoria. The red coats of British soldiers are seen
in the cars after parade hours or at night, when they
are hurrying back to barracks before tattoo.
The harbour of Hong Kong is remarkable for
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 185
the large " floating population " of Chinese, who live
in sampans and seldom go ashore except to pur-
chase provisions. Their boats are small, generally
not twenty feet in length, with a single mast, decked,
and provided with a small well, covered with a hood,
where passengers sit. Under the planking of the
deck, in a tiny space without ventilation, with only
room to lie prone, the crew consisting, perhaps, of
a dozen men, women, and children sleep. Their
cooking is done with a brazier or wood fire placed
on a flat stone in the bows. The children tumble
about the deck unconcernedly in the roughest
weather. The smaller ones are occasionally tied to
the mast to prevent them from falling overboard.
The babies are bound in a bundle behind the
shoulders of the mothers, who pull their oars or
hoist and lower the sail with their burdens fastened
on to them. Thus they live, thus they die ; never
sleeping on land until their corpses are brought
ashore to be buried amid much exploding of
crackers and burning of joss-sticks.
These sampans are freely used to convey pas-
sengers to and from ships or across the harbour.
Formerly cases of robbery and murder were
frequent on board them ; and even now drunken
sailors occasionally disappear in mysterious fashion.
The hood over the passengers' seats could be
suddenly lowered on the occupants of the well ; a
few blows of a hatchet sufficed to end their efforts
to free themselves ; the bodies were then robbed
186 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
and flung overboard, and their fate remained a
secret to all but the murderers. But stringent
police regulations now render these crimes almost
impossible. At night all sampans must anchor at
least thirty yards from the shore. If hailed by
intending passengers they are allowed to come only
to certain piers where European or Indian police
officers take their numbers as well as the names
and destinations of those about to embark on them.
So that the Hong Kong sampan is now nearly as
safe a conveyance as the London hansom.
Communication between Victoria and Kowloon
is maintained by a line of large, two-decked, double-
ended steam ferries, that cross the mile of water
between them in ten minutes. The suburb on the
mainland is of very recent growth. Ten years ago
the Observatory, a signal station, and a few villas
were almost the only buildings ; and the pinewoods
ran uninterruptedly down to the sea. Now Kow-
loon possesses large warehouses, two hotels, two
fine barracks, long streets lined with shops chiefly
for Chinese customers, and terraces of houses
occupied by Europeans. These are generally em-
ployees in the dockyards or clerks, or the families
of engineers and mates of the small steamers that
have their headquarters in Hong Kong. New
streets are continually springing up, connecting it
with Yaumati, a large Chinese suburb, or spreading
down towards Old Kowloon City, three miles off.
Near the ferry pier long wharves run out into the
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 187
harbour, alongside which the largest vessels of the
P. and O. or Norddeutscher- Lloyd can berth and
discharge their cargo. Close by is a naval yard,
with a small space of water enclosed by stone piers
for torpedo craft. Beside it are huge stacks of coal
for our warships. Just above rise the grass-covered
ramparts of a fort. Near this are the fine stone
and brick barracks built for the Hong Kong
Regiment a corps raised and recruited in Northern
India about ten years ago for permanent service
in this Colony. It was recently disbanded when
Hong Kong was added to the list of places over-
seas to be garrisoned by the Indian army. Its
material was excellent ; for the high rate of pay
eighteen rupees a month with free rations as com-
pared with the nine rupees and no rations offered
to the sepoy in India gave its recruiting officers
the pick of Mussulman Punjaub, for it was a com-
pletely Mohammedan regiment. But it suffered
from the disadvantage of being permanently
stationed in one cramped-up garrison with much
guard duty, and of being officered by men coming
at random from various Indian regiments rarely of
the Punjaub, or, worse still, by others from British
regiments, who knew absolutely nothing of the
sepoy and were attracted chiefly by the higher pay.
On the Kowloon side two companies have built
large and ample docks, which can take the finest
battleships we have in the China seas. H.M.S.
Goliath, Ocean, Albion^ Glory; U.S. S. Brooklyn
i88 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
and Kentucky have all been accommodated there.
As they are the only docks in the Far East, with
the exception of those at Nagasaki in Japan, they
are used by all foreign as well as British warships
and merchantmen ; and the dividends they pay are
very large. Small steamers and a yacht for the
King of Siam have been constructed in them. In
Yaumati and Kowloon many Chinese boat-building
yards have sprung up, where numbers of large junks
and sampans are turned out every year.
Past the Kowloon Docks, above which tower a
couple of forts, the open country is reached. The
road runs down through patches of market-gardens
to Old Kowloon City, a quaint walled Chinese
town, with antique iron guns rusting on ks bastions.
This was the last spot of territory in the peninsula
handed over to the British by the Chinese.
" Handed over " is, perhaps, hardly an accurate
description. Although ordered by their Govern-
ment to surrender it, the officials refused to do so.
A show of force was necessary ; and a body of
regular troops, accompanied by the Hong Kong
Volunteers, marched upon the place. The Chinese,
locking the gates and throwing away the keys, dis-
appeared over the walls and bolted into the country.
It was necessary to effect an entry by burglary.
High hills tower above the city; and just beyond it
they close in to the Lyeemoon Pass.
To one unused to the East, Hong Kong is
intensely interesting. The streets, lined with
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 189
European-looking shops, are crowded with a strange
medley of races white, black, or yellow. Daintily
garbed English ladies step from their rickshas and
enter milliner) 7 establishments, the windows of
which display the latest fashions of Paris and
London. Straight-limbed British soldiers, clad in
the familiar scarlet of the Line and blue of the
Royal Artillery or in the now as well-known khaki,
stroll along the pavement, bringing their hands to
their helmets in a smart salute to a passing officer.
Sturdy bluejackets of our Royal Navy walk arm-in-
arm with sailors from the numerous American
warships in the harbour. A group of spectacled
Chinese students move by, chattering volubly.
Long, lithe Bengal Lancers, in khaki blouses reach-
ing to the knee, blue putties, and spurred ankle-
boots, gaudy pugris and bright shoulder -chains,
stop to chat with sepoys of a Bombay infantry
regiment or tall Sikhs of the Asiatic Artillery.
Neat, glazed-hatted Parsis, long-haired Coreans,
trousered Chinese women, and wild, unkempt Pun-
jaubi mule-drivers go by. German man -o'- war's
men, with flat caps and short jackets covered with
gilt or silver buttons, turn to look back at a couple
of small but sturdy Japanese bluejackets. Pig-tailed
Chinese coolies push their way roughly along the
side-walk, earning a well-deserved cut from the
swagger-cane of a soldier against whose red coat
they have rubbed their loads. Even the weird
figure of a half-naked Hindu fakir, his emaciated
THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
body coated with white ashes, the trident of Vishnu
marked in scarlet on his ghastly forehead, carrying
his begging-bowl and long-handled tongs, is seen.
Europeans, in white linen coats and trousers or
smartly-cut flannel suits, rush across the road and
plunge hurriedly into offices. These are probably
brokers, busily engaged in floating some of the
numerous companies that spring up daily in Hong
Kong like mushrooms. Globe-trotters, in weird
pith hats, pause before the windows of curio-shops
which display the artistic efforts of Japan or Can-
ton. The street is crowded with rickshas bearing
ladies, soldiers, civilians, or fat Chinamen in bowler
hats and long, blue silk coats. Carriages are sel-
dom seen, for horses are of little use in the colony,
owing to its hilly character. Queen's Road is almost
the only thoroughfare where they could be employed.
Tall Sikh and Mussulman policemen in blue or red
pugris direct the traffic or salute a white-helmeted
European inspector as he passes.
Society in Hong Kong is less official than in
India, where almost every male is to be found in
either the Army or the Civil Service List. The
Governor and the General are, of course, the
leaders, and in a small way represent Royalty in the
colony. The merchant class is supreme, and their
wives rule society ; naval and military people being
regarded as mere birds of passage in a city where
Europeans practically settle for life and England
seems a very far-off country indeed. Altogether
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 191
life in Hong Kong is of a more provincially English
character than it is in India. The warm-hearted
hospitality of the Anglo- Indian has but a faint echo
in this very British colony. One is not brought into
such daily contact with friends and acquaintances.
In every station, large and small, throughout the
length and breadth of Hindustan there is always a
club which acts as the rallying-place of European
society. Ladies as well as men assemble there in
the afternoons when the sun is setting, and polo,
tennis, and cricket are over for the day. The
fair inhabitants of the station sit on the lawn,
dispense tea to their friends, talk scandal or flirt ;
while their husbands play whist, bridge, and bil-
liards, or gather in jovial groups round the bar and
discuss the events of the day.
But in Hong Kong, despite the large European
population, there is no similar institution or gather-
ing-place. The clubs are sternly reserved for men.
Save at an occasional race meeting or gymkhana,
one never sees all the white inhabitants assembled
together. In the summer the climate is far too hot
for indoor social functions. Even tennis parties are
too exhausting. So hospitable hostesses substitute
for their "At Homes" weekly mixed bathing
parties ; and in the comparative cool of the after-
noons gay groups gather on the piers near the
club and embark on the trim steam launches that
lie in shoals alongside. Then out they go to some
sandy bay along the coast, where mat-sheds have
192 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
been erected to serve as bathing-boxes for the
ladies, who go ashore and attire themselves for
the water. The gentlemen of the party don their
swimming costume in the cabin of the launch, and,
plunging overboard, make their way to the beach
to join their fair companions. When tired of
bathing, the ladies retire to the mat-sheds, the men
to the launch. Then, dressed again and reunited,
all steam back to Hong Kong, refreshing them-
selves with tea and drinks on the way. This is
the favourite form of amusement in Hong Kong
society during the summer.
In the cold weather dances at Government House,
Headquarter House (the General's residence), and
in the City Hall are frequent ; and theatrical com-
panies from England and Australia occupy the
theatre. Picnics, walking or by launch, to the
many charming spots to be found on the island
or the mainland are given. Polo, racing, cricket,
tennis, and golf are in full swing ; and, as the
climate during winter is cold and bracing, life is
very pleasant in the colony then.
To the newly arrived naval or military officer
society in Hong Kong is full of pitfalls and sur-
prises. The English merchant or lawyer over seas
is usually a very good fellow, though occasionally
puffed up by the thought of his bloated money-
bags ; but his wife is often a sad example of British
snobbery, the spirit of which has entered into her
soul in the small country town or London suburb
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 193
from which she came. Society in the boarding-
houses of West Kensington is a bad preparation
for the role of grande dame in the hospitable East.
And so the naval or military officer, accustomed
to broader lines of social demarcation in England,
is puzzled and amused at the minute shades of
difference in Hong Kong society. He fails to see
why Mrs. A., whose spouse exports tea, is to be
considered quite of the haut ton of the colony ;
while Mrs. B., whose husband imports cigars, and
who is by birth and breeding a better man than
A., is not to be called on.
" Big fleas have little fleas upon their backs to bite 'em,
And little fleas have lesser fleas, and so, ad infinitum."
And Hong Kong looks down on Kowloon with all
the well-bred contempt of Belgravia for Brixton.
And even in the despised suburb on the mainland
these social differences are not wanting. The wives
of the superior dock employees are the leaders of
Kowloon society ; and the better half of a ship
captain or marine engineer is only admitted on
sufferance to their exclusive circle. When the
first Indian troops to strengthen the garrison of
Hong Kong in 1900 arrived, they were quartered
in Kowloon ; where the presence of a number of
strange young officers, who dashed about their
quiet suburb on fiery Arabs and completely eclipsed
the local dandies, caused a flutter in the hearts of
anxious mothers and indignant husbands. The
194 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
fires of civilian prejudice against the military
burned fiercely ; and I verily believe that many
of the inhabitants of Kowloon would have pre-
ferred an invasion of ferocious Chinese.
THE KOWLOON HINTERLAND.
The island of Hong Kong was ceded to England
in 1841. Later on a strip of the adjacent mainland,
from two to three miles deep, running back to a
line of steep hills from 1,300 to 2,000 feet high,
was added. Then for many years the colony
rested content under the frowning shadow of these
dangerous neighbours ; until it dawned at last upon
our statesmen that the Power who possessed this
range of hills had Hong Kong at its mercy. For
heavy guns planted on their summits could lay the
city of Victoria in ruins at the easy range of two
or three miles ; and no answering fire from the
island forts so far below them could save it. So
in 1898, by a master-stroke of diplomacy, China
was induced to lease to England the Kowloon
Peninsula, about 200 miles square ; and our frontier
was removed farther back to the safer distance of
about twenty miles from Hong Kong.
The peninsula is an irregularly shaped tongue of
land with rugged and indented coast-line jutting
out from the province of Kwang-tung. It is of
little value except to safeguard the possession
of Hong Kong. It consists of range after range
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 195
of rugged, barren hills, grass-clad, with here and
there tangled vegetation but with scarcely a tree
upon them, separated by narrow valleys thinly
occupied by Chinese. It could only support a
small population ; for arable land is scarce, and
the few inhabitants are forced to add to their scanty
crops by terracing small fields on the steep sides
of the hills. Villages are few and far between.
Those that exist are well and substantially built ;
for, as in Hong Kong, granite is everywhere
present on the mainland, the soil being composed
of disintegrated granite. Cattle-breeding and even
sheep-raising seem difficult ; for the rank grass of
the hills will scarcely support animal life. Experi-
ments made on the islands near Hong Kong, which
are of similar nature to the mainland, seem to bear
this out.
Winding inlets and long, narrow bays run far into
the land on both sides and considerably diminish
the space at the disposal of the cultivator. Occa-
sionally narrow creeks are dammed by the villagers,
and the ground is roughly reclaimed. The supply
of fresh water is limited to the rainfall and the
small streams that run down the hillsides. The
presence of mineral wealth is unsuspected and un-
likely. Altogether the Hinterland is poor and
unproductive. Efforts are being made to develop
its scanty resources ; and if cattle, wheat, and vege-
tables could be raised, a ready market would be
found for them in Hong Kong.
196 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
The present frontier line is exceedingly short
about ten miles if I remember aright as at the
boundary the sea runs far into the land on each
side of the peninsula in two bays Deep Bay on
the west, Mirs Bay on the east. The latter is being
used as the winter training-ground of the ships of
our China squadron. The former is very shallow,
being almost dry at low tide, and earns its name
from the depth of its penetration into the land.
One strongly defined portion of the boundary is
the shallow, tidal Samchun River which runs into
Deep Bay. Across it the Chinese territory begins
in a fertile and cultivated valley surrounding an
important and comparatively wealthy market-town,
Samchun. Beyond that again rises another line
of rugged hills. I have never penetrated into the
interior here farther than Samchun, so cannot speak
with accuracy of what the country is like at the
other side of these hills ; but I have been told that
it is flat and fertile nearly all the way on to Canton.
The English firm in Hong Kong who projected
the railway to Canton employed a Royal Engineer
officer to survey the route for the proposed line.
He told me, as well as I can remember, that he
had estimated the cost from Kowloon to about ten
miles north of Samchun at about ^"27,000 a mile,
and from there on to Canton at ,7,000 a mile.
That seems to show that the country beyond
these hills is flat and easy. The cutting, tunnel-
ling, and embanking required for the passage of
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 197
a railway line through the continuous hills of the
Kowloon Hinterland would be a very laborious
undertaking. There is no long level stretch from
Hong Kong harbour to the frontier ; and the hills
are mainly granite.
Since the Hinterland has come into their posses-
sion the colonial authorities have made an excellent
road from Kowloon into their new territory. It is
carried up the steep hills and down again to the
valleys in easy gradients. It is of more importance
for military than for commercial purposes ; as the
peninsula produces so little and wheeled transport
is unknown.
The cession of the Hinterland in 1898 was very
strongly resented by its few inhabitants. Owing to
their poverty and inaccessibility, they were probably
seldom plagued with visits from Chinese officials ;
and they objected to their sudden transfer to the
care of the more energetic " foreign devils." So
when the Governor of Hong Kong arranged a
dramatic scene to take place at the hoisting of the
British flag on the frontier, and invitations were
freely issued to the officials and their wives and the
society in general of the island to be present on
this historic occasion, the evil-minded inhabitants
prepared a surprise for them. The police and the
guard of honour went out on the previous day to
encamp on the ground on which the ceremony was
to take place. To their consternation they found
that the new subjects of the British Empire had
ig8 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
dug a trench on the side of a hill close by, not
800 yards from the spot on which the flagstaff was
to be erected, and had occupied it in force, armed
with jingals, matchlocks, Brown Besses, and old
rifles antique weapons certainly, but good enough
to kill all the ladies and officials to be present next
day. Information was immediately sent back to
Hong Kong; and quite a little campaign was in-
augurated. Companies of the Royal Welch Fusi-
liers, the Hong Kong Regiment, and the Hong
Kong and Singapore Battalion Royal Artillery,
with detachments of bluejackets, chased their new
fellow-subjects over the hills, exchanged shots with
them, and captured enough ancient weapons to
stock an armoury. Lieutenant Barrett, Hong
Kong Regiment, while bathing in a pond in a
Chinese village, discovered a number of old smooth-
bore cannons, which had been hurriedly thrown in
there. Little resistance was made ; but the picnic
arrangements for the dramatic hoisting of the flag
did not come off.
The inhabitants of the peninsula were speedily
reconciled to British rule and have since given no
further trouble. A few European and Indian police
constables, armed with carbines and revolvers, are
stationed in it and patrol the country in pairs,
frequently armed with no more lethal weapon than
an umbrella.
The possession of the Hinterland has strengthened
enormously the defence of Hong Kong from the
199
landward side. Three passes, about 1,500 feet
high, cross the last range of hills above Kowloon ;
and these can be easily guarded. The situation of
a hostile army which had landed on the coast some
distance away and endeavoured to march through
the difficult and mountainous country of the main-
land, would be hopeless in the presence of a strong
defending force. Entangled in the narrow valleys,
forced to cross a series of roadless passes over
which even field-guns must be carried bodily, fired
at incessantly from the never-ending hilltops, it
would be unable to proceed far. A couple of regi-
ments of Gurkhas or Pathans would be invaluable
in such a country. Moving rapidly from hill to
hill they could decimate the invaders almost with
impunity to themselves.
The garrison of Hong Kong previous to 1900
consisted of a few batteries R.A. to man the forts,
some companies of the Asiatic Artillery or Hong
Kong and Singapore Battalion Royal Artillery (a
corps of Sikhs and Punjaubis raised in India for
the defence of these two coast ports), one British
infantry regiment, the Hong Kong Regiment (ten
companies strong), and the Hong Kong Volunteers,
Europeans, and Portuguese half-castes. The Asiatic
Artillery were armed with muzzle-loading mountain
guns. Such a force was absurdly small for such a
large and important place. General Sir William
Gascoigne, K.C.M.G., was forced to still further de-
nude it of troops in order to send men hurriedly
200 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
to North China to defend Tientsin. He was left
with his garrison companies of Royal Artillery, half
of the Royal Welch Fusiliers and Asiatic Artillery,
and four-fifths of the Hong Kong Regiment. The
situation would have been one of extreme danger
had a rising occurred in Canton and the southern
provinces ; and two regiments of General Gaselee's
original force were stopped on their way to the
North. The 3rd Madras Light Infantry, under
Lieutenant - Colonel Teversham, was composed of
men of that now unwarlike presidency. But the
22nd Bombay Infantry, under the command of
Lieutenant - Colonel R. Baillie, was formed from
the fighting races of Rajputana and Central India
and won many encomiums for their smartness in
manoeuvres over the steep hills and their satisfac-
tory work altogether.
A story is told of a War Office official who,
ignorant of the mountainous character of Hong
Kong, wished to add a regiment of British cavalry
to its garrison. The general in command at the
time, being possessed of a keen sense of humour,
gravely requested that the men should be mounted
on goats, pointing out that no other animal would
prove useful on the Hong Kong hills. But even in
the mountainous country of the mainland mounted
infantry would be of great use to enable command-
ing points to be speedily gained. When stationed
in Kowloon I organised mounted infantry on mules
captured in North China splendid animals most of
OUR STRONGHOLD IN THE FAR EAST 201
them, one standing fifteen hands high. Even in
that broken and rugged country I found that the
men could move swiftly around the bases of the
hills, across the narrow valleys, and up the easier
slopes at a speed that defied all pursuit from their
comrades on foot. In an advance overland to
Canton, mounted infantry would be invaluable when
the flat and cultivated country past Samchun was
reached ; for cavalry would be useless in such closely
intersected ground.
CHAPTER IX
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA
A SHALLOW, muddy river running between
steep banks. On the grassy slopes of a
conical hill the white tents of a camp. Before the
quarter-guard stands a Bombay Infantry sentry in
khaki uniform and pugri, the butt of his Lee-
Metford rifle resting on the ground, his eyes
turned across the river to where the paddy-fields of
Southern China stretch away to a blue range of
distant hills. Figures in khaki or white undress
move about the encampment or gather round the
mud cooking-places, where their frugal meal of
chupatties and curry is being prepared. A smart,
well-set-up British officer passes down through the^
lines of tents and lounging sepoys spring swiftly to
attention as he goes by. On the hilltop above a
signaller waves his flag rapidly; and down below in
the camp a Madrassi havildar spells out his message
to a man beside him, who writes it down in a note-
book. Coolies loaded with supplies trudge wearily
up the steep path. Before the tents four wicked-
looking little mountain guns turn their ugly muzzles
longingly towards a walled town two thousand yards
202
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 203
away across the stream, where spots of red and
blue resolve themselves through a field-glass into
Chinese soldiers. All around on this side of the
river the country lies in never-ending hills and
narrow valleys, with banked paddy-fields in chess-
board pattern. And on these hills small horseshoe-
shaped masonry tombs or glazed, brown earthen-
ware pots containing the bones of deceased
Chinamen fleck the grassy slopes. Across the
stream the cultivation is interspersed with low, tree-
crowned eminences or dotted with villages. There
on the boundary line, between China and the
English territory of the Kowloon Hinterland, a
small column guards our possessions against rebel
and Imperial soldier, both possible enemies and
restrained from violating British soil by the bayonets
of the sepoys from our distant Eastern Empire.
Twenty miles away Hong Kong lies ringed in by
sapphire sea. From the land it has no danger to
dread while a man of this small but resolute force
guarding its frontier remains alive.
The outburst of fanaticism in North China, the
attacks on the foreign settlements in Tientsin and
Pekin, the treachery of the Court, had their echo
in the far-off southern provinces. Canton, turbulent
and hostile, has ever been a plague-spot. Before
now English and French troops have had to
chasten its pride and teach its people that the outer
barbarian claims a right to exist even on the sacred
soil of China. In the troublous summer of 1900
204 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
10,000 Black Flags, the unruly banditti who long
waged a harassing war against the French in
Tonkin, were encamped near this populous city.
Fears were rife in Hong Kong that, fired by ex-
aggerated accounts of successes against the hated
foreigners in the North and swelled by the fanatical
population of the provinces of the two Kwangs,
they might swarm down to the coast and attack
our possessions on the mainland, or even endeavour
to assail the island itself. Li Hung Chang, the
Viceroy of Canton, had sounded a note of warning.
Purporting to seek the better arming of his soldiery
to enable him to cope with popular discontent, he
induced the colonial authorities to allow him to
import 40,000 new magazine rifles through Hong
Kong; but there was no security that these weapons
might not be turned against ourselves. As it was
well known that the Imperial troops in the North
had made common cause with the Boxers, the
wisdom of permitting this free passage of modern
arms may be questioned. Rumours of a rising
among the Chinese in Victoria itself, of threatened
invasion from the mainland, were rife ; and the in-
habitants of our colony in the Far East were badly
scared. The first Indian brigade under General
Gaselee passed up to the more certain danger in
the North ; but representations made to the home
authorities caused the stopping of his two line-of-
communication regiments, the $rd Madras Light
Infantry and 22nd Bombay Infantry, to strengthen
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 205
the denuded garrison of Hong Kong. This and
the subsequent detention of his 2nd Brigade to
safeguard Shanghai left his command in the Allied
Armies on the march to Pekin numerically weak
and forced him into a subordinate position in the
councils of the Generals. Hong Kong was by no
means in such imminent peril ; and the troops thus
diverted would have made his force second only to
the Japanese in strength, and enabled him to assert
his authority more emphatically among the Allies.
Pekin fell on August i4th, 1900. But long after
that date this was not credited in Canton ; and
the wildest rumours were rife as to the splendid
successes of the Chinese, who were represented as
everywhere victorious. This large southern city
is situated well under a hundred miles from Hong
Kong, either by river or by land. It has constant
intercourse with our colony ; and large, flat-bottomed
steamers with passengers and cargo pass between
the two places every day. Yet it was confidently
stated in the vernacular newspapers, and every-
where believed, that two regiments from India
arriving in Hong Kong Harbour had heard such
appalling tales of the prowess of the Chinese braves
that the terrified soldiers had jumped overboard
from the transports and drowned themselves to a
man. They had preferred an easy death to the
awful tortures that they knew awaited them at
the hands of the invincible Chinese. Long after
the Court had fled in haste from Pekin and the
206 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
capital had been in the hands of the Allies for
months, their columns pushing out everywhere into
the interior, it was asserted that all this apparent
success was but a deep-laid plan of the glorious
Empress -Dowager. She had thus enticed them
into the heart of the land in order to cut them off
from the sea. She now held them in the hollow
of her hand. The luckless foreigners had abjectly
appealed for mercy. Her tender heart had relented,
and she had graciously promised to spare them in
return for the restoration of all the territory hitherto
wrested from China. Tientsin, Port Arthur, Kiao-
Chau, Shanghai, Tonkin, even Hong Kong, were
being hastily surrendered. And such preposterous
tales were readily believed.
But another confusing element was introduced
into the already sufficiently complicated situation.
Canton and the South contains, besides the anti-
foreign party, a number of reformers who realise
that China must stand in line with modern civilisa-
tion. Only thus will she become strong enough to
resist the perpetual foreign aggression which de-
prives her of her best ports and slices off her most
valuable seaboard territory. The energetic inhabi-
tants of Canton freely emigrate to Hong Kong,
Singapore, Penang, Australia, and America. There
they learn to take a wider view of things than is
possible in their own conservative country. When
they return they spread their ideas, and are the
nucleus of the already fairly numerous party of
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 207
reform, who justly blame the misfortunes of China
on the effete and narrow-minded Government in
Pekin and work to secure the downfall of the
present Manchu dynasty. In the southern provinces
they have their following ; and rumours of a great
uprising there against the corrupt officialdom, and
even the throne itself, were rife in the autumn of
1900. The much-talked-of but little-known Triad
Society who claimed to advocate reform, but who
were regarded with suspicion, their tenets forbidden,
and their followers imprisoned in Hong Kong
started a rebellion in the Kwang-tung province.
They were supposed to be led, or at least abetted,
by Sun Yat Sen, an enlightened reformer. As the
revolt began close to the Kowloon frontier, fears
were expressed lest, despite their advertised views,
the rebels should prove unfriendly to foreigners and
invade our territory. Little was known of the
progress of the movement The Chinese Imperial
Government, through the Viceroy of Canton, sent
Admiral Ho with 4,000 troops to Samchun to
suppress the rising. The rebels, hearing of his
coming, moved farther inland. The soldiers, having
no great stomach for bloodshed, generously forebore
to follow, and settled themselves comfortably in and
around the town. Lest either party should be
tempted to infringe the neutrality of our territory,
the Hong Kong newspapers urged the Governor
to take immediate measures to safeguard our
frontier. After some delay a small, compact column
208 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
was despatched to the boundary under the command
of Major E. A. Kettlewell, an officer of marked
ability and energy, who had seen much service in
Burma and in the Tirah, and who had had long
and intimate connection with the Imperial Service
troops in India. The composition of the force,
known as the Frontier Field Force, was as under :
Commanding Officer,
Major E. A. Kettlewell, 22nd Bombay Infantry.
Staff Officer.
Lieutenant Casserly, 22nd Bombay Infantry.
Troops.
Three Companies, 22nd Bombay Infantry, under Captain
Hatherell and Lieutenants Melville and Burke.
Four mountain guns and 50 men, Hong Kong and Singa-
pore Battalion Royal Artillery, under Lieutenants
Saunders and Ogilvie.
Detachment Royal Engineers (British and Chinese sappers),
under Lieutenant Rundle, R.E.
Maxim Gun Detachment, 22nd Bombay Infantry, under
Jemadar Lalla Rawat.
Signallers, 3rd Madras Light Infantry, under Captain
Sharpe.
Section of Indian Field Hospital, under Captain Wool-
ley, I. M.S.
With the mobility of Indian troops the column
embarked within a few hours after the receipt of
orders on a flotilla of steam launches, which were
to convey us along the coast to Deep Bay, and
thence up the Samchun River to the threatened
point on the frontier. Stores, tents, and a few
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 209
mules to carry the Maxim and ammunition, as well
as to supplement coolie transport, were towed in
junks.
Our tiny vessels loaded down with their living
freight, the sepoys excited at the prospect of a fight,
we steam away from Kowloon and out through the
crowded harbour. We pass a number of torpedo-
boat destroyers and a small fleet of obsolete gun-
boats rusting in inglorious ease. To our right,
with its huge cylindrical oil-tanks standing up like
giant drums and its docks containing an American
man-o'-war, lies the crowded Chinese quarter of
Yaumati. Above it towers the long chain of hills,
their dark sides marked with the white streak of
the new road that crosses their summit into the
Hinterland. On the left is Hong Kong, the Peak
with the windows of its houses flashing in the
sun, the city at its feet in shadow. We pass the
long, straggling Stonecutter's Island, with the solid
granite walls of its abandoned prison, the tree-clad
hills and the sharp outlines of forts. In among
an archipelago of islands, large and small, we steam ;
and ahead of us lies the narrow channel of the
Cap-sui-moon Pass between Lantau and the lesser
islet of Mah Wan. On the latter are the buildings
of the Customs station the Imperial Maritime
Customs of China. High hills on islands and
mainland tower above us on every side. The lofty
peak of Tai-mo-shan stands up in the brilliant sun-
light. The coast is grim with rugged cliffs or gay
210 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
with the grassy slopes of hills running down to
the white fringe of beach. Bluff headlands, black,
glistening rocks on which the foam-flecked waves
break incessantly, dark caverns, and tiny bays line
the shore. A lumbering junk, with high, square
stern and rounded bows on which are painted
large eyes, that the ship may see her way bears
down upon us with huge mat sails and its lolling
crew gazing over the side in wonderment at the
fierce, dark soldiers. A small sampan dances over
the waves, two muscular women pushing at the
long oars and the inevitable children seated on its
narrow deck.
Along the coast we steam, gazing at its inter-
minable masses of green hills, until it suddenly
recedes into a wide bay surrounded on every side
by high land. This is Deep Bay, an expanse
twenty-five miles in extent which, though now
covered by the sea, becomes at low tide one vast
mud flat, with a small stream winding through the
noisome ooze. Towards the land on the right we
head. Far out from shore lies a trim, white gun-
boat. From the stern floats the yellow Imperial
standard of China with its sprawling dragon ; for
the vessel belongs to the Maritime Customs
Service. On the decks brass machine-guns glitter.
A European in white clothing watches us through
binoculars from the poop. The Chinese crew in
blue uniforms, with pigtails coiled up under their
straw hats, are spreading an awning.
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 211
At length we reach the mouth of the Samchun
River, a small tidal stream, which, when the sea is
low, is scarcely eighteen inches deep. Up between
its winding banks we steam. High hills rise up
on each side. We pray that neither rebel nor
hostile Imperial soldier is waiting here to stop our
coming ; for a machine-gun or a few rifles would
play havoc with our men crowded together on the
little launches. Up the river we go in single file,
playing "follow my leader" as the first launch
swings sharply round the frequent curves. By
virtue of my position "on the Staff," I am aboard
it and am consequently resentful when a bump and
a prolonged scraping under the keel tell us that
we have gone aground. The next launch avoids
the shoal and passes us, its occupants flinging
sarcastic remarks and unkind jibes at us as they
go by. But "pride cometh before a fall," and
a little farther on their Chinese steersman runs
them high and dry. Then the others leave us
behind until by dint of poling we float again and
follow in their wake. Round a bend in the river
we swing ; and ahead of us we see a number of
weird - looking Chinese war -junks. From their
masts stream huge pennants and gaudy flags of
many colours ; on their decks stand old muzzle-
loading, smooth-bore cannon. Their high, square
sterns tower above the banks. The motley-garbed
crews are squatting about, engaged with chop-sticks
and bowls of rice. The sudden appearance of
212 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
our flotilla crowded with armed men startles them.
They drop their food and spring up to stare at
us, uncertain whether to bolt ashore or continue
their interrupted meal. Seeing no signs of hostility
on our part, they grin placatingly and shout re-
marks to us, the tenor of which it is perhaps as
well that we do not understand. These are Govern-
ment war-junks and, like the Customs steamer
outside, are stationed here to prevent assistance
reaching the rebels from the sea ; but anyone who
had successfully forced their way past the gunboat
would have little to fear from these ill - armed
Noah's Arks. Close by stand a few substantial
buildings a Customs station. From the verandah
of a bungalow two white men in charge of it watch
us as we go by.
As evening was closing in we reached the spot
selected for our first camping-ground and disem-
barked. On our side of the river a few hundred
yards of level ground ran back to the steep, bare
slopes of a straggling hill which rose to a conical
peak five hundred feet above our heads. All
around lay similar eminences, their grassy sides
devoid of trees. Behind us the Hinterland stretched
away to the south in range after range of barren
mountains divided by narrow, cultivated valleys.
Beyond the river lay a plain patched with paddy-
fields or broken by an occasional low hill. In it,
little more than a mile away, stood the walled town
of Samchun. The British and Indian police in
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 213
the new territory had been instructed to give
us intelligence of any hostile movements in the
neighbourhood ; and from them we learned that no
immediate danger was to be apprehended. Never-
theless all precautionary measures to guard against
a possible surprise were taken ; for Admiral Ho's
troops still lingered in Samchun, and considerable
doubt existed as to their attitude towards the British.
Piquets having been posted and a strong guard
placed over the ammunition and supplies, the men
cooked their evening meal and bivouacked for the
night. But sleep was almost impossible. The heat
was intense. We had evidently intruded upon a
favourite haunt of the mosquitoes who attacked us
with malignant persistence until dawn.
The following day was employed in strengthening
our position, reconnoitring our surroundings and
laying out our camp. Our arrival had evidently
taken the Chinese army across the river completely
by surprise. From the hill, on which our tents
stood, Samchun was plainly visible about 2,000
yards away ; and our field-glasses showed a great
commotion in the town. Soldiers poured out of the
gates or crowded on to the walls and gazed in con-
sternation apparent even at that distance at the
British force that had so suddenly put in an appear-
ance on the scene. They were evidently extremely
dubious as to our intentions ; and we watched the
troops falling in hurriedly and being marshalled
under an imposing array of banners. When the
214 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Hinterland had been ceded to us, Samchun had at
first been included, and was for a short time occupied
by us ; but the boundary was afterwards fixed at the
river as being a natural frontier, and the town was
restored to the Chinese. They apparently feared
that we had changed our minds and contemplated ap-
propriating it again. As our column made no move
for our orders had been not to enter Chinese territory
or take any hostile action unless attacked they
soon disappeared into the town again. Later on, on
a hill that rose close to the river on their side of the
boundary-line, a regiment appeared and observed us
narrowly all day, endeavouring to keep out of sight
themselves as much as possible. It was very tan-
talising to see the materials for a pretty little fight
ready to hand being wasted, and we longed for the
smallest hostile act on their part to give us an excuse
for one. But none came ; and we sighed discon-
tentedly at the loss of such a golden opportunity.
Although the Chinese force numbered 4,000, armed
with guns, Mausers and Winchesters, and our column
counted barely 400 all told, we felt little doubt as
to the result of a fight between us.
By the following morning Admiral Ho and his
mandarins had evidently come to the conclusion that
we were more dangerous neighbours than the rebels ;
so he proceeded to move off from our vicinity. All
that day and the next we watched bodies of troops,
clad in long red or blue coats, with enormous straw
hats slung like shields on their backs or covering
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 215
their heads like giant mushrooms, marching out
of the town and stringing out into single file along
the narrow paths between the paddy-fields as they
moved off into the mountains beyond Samchun.
Above their heads waved innumerable banners
green, red, blue, parti-coloured, or striped in many
lines horizontally or vertically. By the following
evening all had disappeared, with the exception
of about 400, as we afterwards ascertained, left
behind to garrison the town. This forlorn hope,
I doubt not, were none too well pleased at remaining
in such unpleasant proximity to us.
Our arrival at the frontier was undoubtedly
responsible for the retirement of Admiral Ho's
army. For he had been for some time comfortably
settled in Samchun without evincing the least anxiety
to follow up the rebels, who were reported to be
laying waste the country farther on, pillaging the
villages, torturing the officials, and levying taxes on
the inhabitants. His departure removed a constant
source of danger ; for his undisciplined troops might
have been tempted to cross the boundary into our
territory and harass the villagers under our pro-
tection.
We now employed ourselves in patrolling the
frontier, exercising the troops and making sketches
to supplement the very inadequate information as
to the surrounding country in our possession. Al-
though the Hinterland had been ceded to the British
two years before, and although it lies in such close
216 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
proximity to Hong Kong, no accurate survey of it
had ever been made. The only map which could
be found to provide the expedition with was one
done by a Jesuit missionary in 1840. It was fairly
correct as regards outlines, but contained absolutely
no details except a number of names, which might
refer to villages or to features of the ground. For
instance, at the spot on the map where our camp
stood, we read the word " Lo-u." This, before we
arrived there, we concluded referred to a village.
But there was not a house in the vicinity, and we
found that it was the name of the hill on which our
tents were pitched. Our energetic commander em-
ployed himself in surveying and filling in the details
of the surrounding country, marking the positions
of the hamlets and paths for roads there were
none and ascertaining the ranges and heights of
the various prominent features around us.
About a mile away down the river lay the Chinese
Customs station that we had passed on our way up.
I strolled there one afternoon and made the acquaint-
ance of the officers in charge. They were both
Britishers. One of them, Mr. Percy Affleck- Scott,
told me that our arrival had been a great relief to
them. When the rebels had been in the vicinity
they had received several messages from the leaders
who threatened to march down upon their station,
burn it, and cut their heads off. In view of the
repeated declarations of the Triads, that no hos-
tility is felt by them to foreigners, these threats are
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 217
significant. As they had little reliance on the
prowess of the Chinese soldiers if attacked by the
rebels, these two Britishers had been considerably
relieved at the arrival of our force, in whose neigh-
bourhood they knew that they would be safe.
The position of the European Custom House
officials in the Outdoor Branch, stationed as they
generally are in out-of-the-way places in Chinese
territory with no society of their own kind, is
scarcely enviable. Their work, which consists in
levying duty on imports into the country, frequently
brings them into unpleasant contact with Chinese
officials, who regard the existence of their service
with intense dislike, as it robs them of chances of
extortion. Those employed in the Indoor Branch
are generally stationed in cities like Hong Kong,
Shanghai, Pekin, or other large centres where life
is enjoyable.
When visiting the Samchun Custom House on
another occasion, at a later period, I saw a number
of small, two -pounder rifled breechloading guns
belonging to Admiral Ho's force being embarked
on a war-junk. I examined them with interest.
They were mounted on small -wheeled carriages
and bore the stamp of the Chinese arsenal where
they had been made. The breech ends were
square, with a falling block worked by a lever at
the side. They were well finished ; for the work
turned out at these arsenals by native workmen, often
under European supervision, is generally very good.
218 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Early one morning, a few days after Admiral Ho's
departure, the camp was roused by a sudden alarm.
About four a.m., when it was still pitch dark, we
were awakened by the sound of heavy firing in
the Chinese territory. The continuous rattle of
small arms and the deeper booming of field-guns
were distinctly audible. We rushed out of our
tents and the troops got ready to fall in. The
firing seemed to come from the immediate neigh-
bourhood of Samchun ; and it appeared that a
desperate fight was in full swing. Our impression
was that the rebels, learning of Ho's departure,
had eluded his force and doubled back to attack
the town, which, being wealthy, would have proved
a tempting prize. We gazed from the hillside in
the direction from which the sound came ; but a
thick mist lay over the fields beyond the river and
prevented the flashes from being visible. We
waited impatiently for daylight. The rattle of rifle-
firing now broke out suddenly from around the
Customs station ; and we trembled for the safety
of Affleck-Scott and his companion. As the sound
came no nearer in our direction, it became evident
that no hostile movement against us was intended.
We cursed the tardy daylight. At last day broke ;
but still the low-lying mists obscured our view of
the town and the plain beyond the river. Then
the sun rose. The fog slowly cleared away. We
looked eagerly towards Samchun, expecting, as the
firing still continued, to see the contending forces
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 219
engaged in deadly battle. But to our surprise,
though every house in the town, every field and
bank around it, stood out distinct in the clear light,
scarcely a human being was visible. Before the
gates a few soldiers lounged about unconcernedly.
But the firing still continued. We could see
nothing to account for it and began to wonder if it
was a battle of phantoms. Gradually it died away
and left us still bewildered. Later on in the day
came the explanation. In view of our imaginary
combat it was simple and ludicrous. The day was
one of the innumerable Chinese festivals; and the in-
habitants of Samchun and the neighbouring villages
had been ushering it in in the usual Celestial
fashion with much burning of crackers and ex-
ploding of bombs. To anyone who has heard
the extraordinary noise of Chinese fireworks, which
accurately reproduces the rattle of musketry and the
booming of guns, our mistake is excusable. At
the attack on the Peiyang Arsenal outside Tientsin,
on June 27th, 1900, by the British, Americans, and
Russians, the Chinese defenders, before evacuating
it when hard pressed, laid strings of crackers along
the walls. As our marines and bluejackets, with
the Americans, advanced to the final assault these
were set fire to. The explosions sounded like a
very heavy fusillade and the assailants took cover.
The Chinese meanwhile bolted out of the arsenal
and got safely away before the attackers discovered
the trick and stormed the place.
220 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
A week or two after this false alarm, I obtained
permission to cross into Chinese territory and visit
Samchun. The town looked very interesting at a
distance, with its high walls and two square stone
towers, which were in reality pawn-shops. For these
establishments in China are looked upon as safe
deposit offices. A rich man about to leave home
for any length of time removes his valuables to the
nearest pawn-shop and there stores them. They
are the first places attacked when a band of robbers
seizes some small town, as frequently happens. So
they are built in the form of strong towers with the
entrance generally several feet from the ground, in
order that the proprietor and his friends may retire
within and defend them.
Accompanied by Captain Woolley, I.M.S., I set
out to visit the town, having received many injunc-
tions to be careful not to embroil ourselves with the
inhabitants or the soldiery, who were not likely to
prove over friendly. We were provided with inter-
preters in the persons of a Chinese policeman in
British employ and a Sikh constable who had
learned to converse very well in the language of the
country. As we intended to make a formal call on
the mandarin in command of Samchun and had
heard that in China a man's importance is gauged
by the size of his visiting-card, we wrote our names
on sheets of foolscap the largest pieces of paper
we could find. Red, however, is the proper colour.
In mufti and taking no weapons, we left the camp
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 221
and crossed the river in a small, flat-bottomed ferry-
boat. Landed on the far side, we set off along the
tops of the mud banks between the paddy-fields,
the only roads available. Those which are used as
general paths are laid with flat stones, which, not
being fastened in any way, occasionally tilt up and
slide about in a disconcerting manner. As we
neared the town we were observed with interest by
a number of Chinese soldiers lounging about in
front of the principal gateway. We felt a little
nervous as to our reception but putting a bold face
on the matter directed our way towards them. We
were stopped, however, by our Chinese policeman,
who told us that we should not approach this en-
trance as it faced the mandarin's Yamen and was
reserved for important individuals. We being merely
foreigners this although he was in British employ-
ment ! must seek admittance through the back gate
into the town. Irritated at his insolent tone, the
Sikh constable shoved him aside, and we approached
the guard. The soldiers, though not openly hostile
for the white tents of our camp, plainly visible
across the river, had a sobering effect treated us
with scarcely-veiled contempt. On our Sikh inter-
preter informing them that we were English officers
who had come to visit their mandarin, they airily
replied that that dignitary was asleep and could not
see us. Annoyed at their impertinent manner, we
ordered them to go and wake him. Rather im-
pressed by our audacity, they held a consultation.
222 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Then one went into the Yamen. He returned in a
few minutes with a message to the effect that the
mandarin regretted that he could not see us as he
was not dressed. Seeing the effect of our previous
curtness, we haughtily bade the soldier tell the
mandarin to put on his clothes at once ; see him we
must. Visibly impressed this time, he hastened in-
side again and promptly returned with an invitation
to enter the Yamen. We passed through the gate
with as important an air as we could assume. It
had been a game of bluff on both sides and we had
won ; for on the verandah of the house inside the
entrance we were received by the mandarin, cor-
rectly attired. With hands folded over each other,
he bowed low and led the way into the interior.
The room was small and plainly furnished. High-
backed, uncomfortable chairs stood round a square
blackwood table. On the walls hung crude pictures
or tablets painted with Chinese characters. Our
host, who was really a most courteous old gentle-
man, bowed again and, pointing to the chairs,
begged us as we judged from his manner to be
seated. We politely refused until he had taken a
chair himself. He then addressed us in sing-song
Chinese words, which our Sikh interpreter assured
us were an expression of the honour he felt at our
condescending to visit such an unworthy individual.
We framed our reply in equally humble terms. He
then inquired the reason of the coming of our force
to the frontier. We informed him that it was
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 223
merely to guard our territory from invasion and
assured him that we had no evil designs on Sam-
chun. He pretended to feel satisfied at this, but
doubt evidently still lingered in his mind. The
conversation then dragged on spasmodically until
we asked his permission to visit the town. He
seemed to hail our request with relief as a chance
of politely ridding himself of us and ordered four
soldiers to get ready to accompany us as an escort.
One of the attendants, at a sign from him, then left
the room and returned with three little cups covered
with brass saucers.
" Now we shall taste really high-class Chinese
tea," said Woolley to me in an undertone.
We removed the saucers. The cups were filled
with boiling water. At the bottom lay a few black
twigs and leaves. Imitating the mandarin's actions,
we raised our cups in both hands and tried to drink
the hot and tasteless contents. The Chinese tea
was a distinct failure.
A few black, formidable-looking cigars were now
placed upon the table. Mindful of the vile odours
that inevitably possess the filthy streets of the
native towns in China, we took some. Then as
our escort appeared in the courtyard in front of the
house, we rose. Expressing profuse thanks to our
courteous host through the interpreter, we folded
our hands and bowed ourselves out in the politest
Chinese fashion.
Following our military guides, we entered the
224 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
town. They led us first to the house of a lesser
mandarin, whom we visited. He was as surly as
his superior was amiable. He very speedily ordered
tea for us as a sign of dismissal. However, as a
mark of attention, he sent two lantern-bearers to
accompany us. Quitting him with little hesitation,
we followed our escort and plunged again into the
town. The streets were narrow and indescribably
filthy. Deep, open drains bordered them, filled
with refuse. Extending our arms, we could nearly
touch the houses on each side. On either hand
were shops, some with glass - windowed fronts,
others open to the street. Some were fairly exten-
sive, filled with garments or rolls of cloth. Others
exhibited for sale clocks, cheap embroidery, tinsel
jewellery, or common pottery. Every third one
at least sold food, raw or cooked. Dried fish or
ducks split open, the heads and necks of the latter
attached to the bodies ; pork, meat, and sucking-
pigs ; rice, flour, or vegetables. Near one shop
stood a grinning Chinaman who spoke to us in
pidgin- English. Beside him was an open barrel
filled with what looked like dried prunes. I pointed
to them and asked what they were.
" That ? " he said, popping one into his mouth
and munching it with evident relish. " That belong
cocky-loachee. Velly good ! "
They were dried cockroaches !
Farther on another pig- tailed individual spoke to
us in fluent English with a Yankee twang.
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 225
" Do you live in Samchun ? " I asked him, in
surprise.
" Not much, you bet ! " he replied. " I don't
belong to this darned country any more. I live in
'Frisco."
He explained that he had come to Hong Kong
as a sailor on an American vessel, and had wandered
out to Samchun to see a relative. With a " So long,
boss ! " from him we passed on.
Every fifth or sixth house was a gambling-den.
Around the tables were seated Chinamen of all
ages engaged in playing fan-tan, that slowest and
most exasperating of all methods of " plunging."
The interiors of these establishments were gay
with much elaborate gilt carving.
It was now growing dark, and our lantern-bearers
lighted the paper lamps swinging at the end of long
sticks they carried. We directed our escort to lead
us out of the town. We wished to dismiss them at
the gate ; but they assured the interpreter that their
orders were strict not to quit us until they had
seen us safely out of Chinese territory. So we made
our way to the river. Arrived there, my companion
and I discussed the question as to whether we
should reward our escort with a tip or whether
they would be insulted, being soldiers, at the offer.
Finally we resolved to give them a dollar. If they
did not look satisfied, we would increase the amount.
So a bright English dollar was handed to the Sikh
to be given to them. Satisfied ! They seemed as
Q
226 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
if they had never seen such wealth before. They
crowded round us with voluble thanks ; and with
quite an affecting farewell we went down to the
water's edge. To our surprise we found our com-
manding officer with a party of armed sepoys cross-
ing over to us in the ferry-boat. Alarmed at our
long absence, he had feared that something un-
toward had happened to us and was coming in
search of us. When we arrived at the camp we
found the others rather uneasy about us ; though
some cheerfully assured us that they had been
hoping that the Chinese had at least captured us
to give them an excuse for attacking and looting
Samchun.
Shortly afterwards, interested at our description
of our adventures, our commanding officer deter-
mined to visit Samchun. A letter in Chinese was
sent to the mandarin to acquaint him with our
chief's intention. Next morning we were surprised
by the sight of eight Chinese soldiers, armed with
carbines and accompanied by the Sikh interpreter,
crossing the river and ascending the path to the
camp. As they approached the tents our sepoys,
anxious to see the redoubtable warriors at close
range, rushed out and flocked round them. Terri-
fied at the sight of these strange black men, the
Chinese soldiers dropped on their knees, flung their
carbines on the ground, and held up their hands in
abject supplication, entreating the interpreter to beg
the fierce-looking foreign devils not to beat them.
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 227
The sepoys roared with laughter, patted them on
the backs, and bore them off to their tents to soothe
them with tea and cigarettes. The Sikh constable
was the bearer of a message from the mandarin,
expressing his pleasure at the intended visit of our
commandant and informing him that an escort had
been sent as a mark of honour. Accompanied by
twenty of our tallest sepoys we crossed the river
and set out for Samchun.
As we approached the town we found that the
whole garrison of 400 men had been turned out to
welcome us and were formed up to line the road
near the gate of the Yamen. Fourteen huge
banners of many colours waved above the ranks.
In front of the entrance stood the mandarin and
his suite in their gala dress, waiting to receive us.
Our commanding officer had ridden up on his Arab
charger, which must have seemed an immense horse
to the Chinamen present, accustomed only to the
diminutive ponies of their own country. The man-
darin came forward to welcome our chief and
apologised for not receiving him with a salute of
cannon, as, he said, he had been afraid of startling
his steed !
While compliments were being exchanged, I
walked down the ranks of the Chinese troops and
inspected them closely. They were nearly all small
and miserable-looking men, clad in long red or blue
coats, with huge straw hats. They were armed
with single-loading Mausers or Winchester repeating
228 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
carbines. I looked at a few of these. The outside
of the barrels were bright and had evidently been
cleaned with emery paper ; but inside they were
completely choked with rust and the weapons were
absolutely useless. The men were evidently merely
coolies, hurriedly impressed by the mandarins when
called upon by the Viceroy of Canton to produce
the troops for whom they regularly drew pay. This
is a favourite device of the corrupt Chinese officials,
who receive an allowance to keep up a certain
number of soldiers. They buy and store a corre-
sponding number of uniforms and rifles. When
warned of an approaching inspection by some
higher authority, they gather in coolies and clothe
and arm them for the duration of his visit. The
superior official his own palm having been well
greased forbears to inspect them too closely, and
departs to report to the Viceroy of the province
that the troops are of excellent quality. Then the
uniforms and rifles are returned to store, and the
coolies dismissed with or more probably without
a few cents to recompense them for their trouble.
Latterly in the North this does not always occur;
and some of the troops, trained by foreigners and
armed with the latest quick-firing guns and magazine
rifles, are very good. The Imperial forces which
opposed Admiral Seymour's advance and attacked
Tientsin were of very different calibre to those
employed in the suppression of the Triad rebellion.
The shooting of their gunners and riflemen was
ON COLUMN IN SOUTHERN CHINA 229
excellent. The army of Yuan- Shi -Kai, who was
Governor of the province of Shantung during the
troubles in the North, is a good example of what
Chinese soldiers can be when well trained.
The interview between the mandarin of Samchun
and our commanding officer was an elaborate repeti-
tion of my own experience. The visit over, we
entered the town, inspected some of the temples,
and bought some curiosities in the shops. Then,
escorted by our original party of Chinese soldiers,
we returned to the river.
At the end of November we were roused one
night by urgent messages from the British police
in the Hinterland to the effect that parties of rebels
were hovering on the frontier and it was feared
that they intended to raid across into our territory.
In response to their request, a strong party was sent
out at once to reinforce them. About four a.m. a
European police sergeant arrived in breathless haste
with the information that the rebels had crossed the
boundary and seized two villages lying inside our
border. They had fired on the police patrols. Two
companies of the 22nd Bombay Infantry, under
Captain Hatherell and Lieutenant Burke, fell in
promptly and marched off under the guidance of
two Sikh policemen sent for the purpose. Pre-
ceded by scouts and a strong advanced guard,
under a Pathan native officer, Subhedar Khitab
Gul, they bore down at daybreak on the villages
reported captured. But the rebels had apparently
230 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
received information of their coming and had fled
back across the border. The troops, bitterly dis-
appointed at being deprived of a fight, returned
about nine a.m. to camp, where the remainder of the
force had been ready to support them if necessary.
No further attempts were ever made against our
territory, and shortly afterwards the Frontier Field
Force returned to headquarters.
CHAPTER X
IN THE PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO
FORTY miles from Hong Kong, hidden away
among the countless islands that fringe the
entrance to the estuary of the Chukiang or Pearl
River, lies the Portuguese settlement of Macao.
Once flourishing and prosperous, the centre of
European trade with Southern China, it is now
decaying and almost unknown killed by the com-
petition of its young and successful rival. Long
before Elizabeth ascended the throne of England
the venturesome Portuguese sailors and merchants
had reached the Far East. There they carried
their country's flag over seas where now it never
flies. An occasional gunboat represents in Chinese
waters their once powerful and far-roaming navy.
In the island of Lampacao, off the south-eastern
coast, their traders were settled, pushing their com-
merce with the mainland. In 1557 the neigh-
bouring peninsula of Macao was ceded to them in
token of the Chinese Emperor's gratitude for their
aid in destroying the power of a pirate chief who
had long held sway in the seas around. The Dutch,
the envious rivals of the Portuguese in the East,
turned covetous eyes on the little colony which
231
232 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
speedily began to flourish. In 1622 the troops
in Macao were despatched to assist the Chinese
against the Tartars. Taking advantage of their
absence, the Governor of the Dutch East Indies
fitted out a fleet to capture their city. In the June
of that year the hostile ships appeared off Macao
and landed a force to storm the fort. The valiant
citizens fell upon and defeated the invaders ; and
the Dutch sailed away baffled. Until the early
part of the nineteenth century the Portuguese paid
an annual tribute of five hundred taels to the
Chinese Government in acknowledgment of their
nominal suzerainty. In 1848, the then Governor,
Ferreira Amaral, refused to continue this payment
and expelled the Chinese officials from the colony.
In 1887, the independence of Macao was formally
admitted by the Emperor in a treaty to that effect.
But the palmy days of its commerce died with
the birth of Hong Kong. The importance of the
Portuguese settlement has dwindled away. Macao
is but a relic of the past. Its harbour is empty.
The sea around has silted up with the detritus from
the Pearl River until now no large vessels can
approach. A small trade in tea, tobacco, opium,
and silk is all that is left. The chief revenue is
derived from the taxes levied on the numerous
Chinese gambling-houses in the city, which have
gained for it the title of the Monte Carlo of the
East.
Macao is situated on a small peninsula connected
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 233
by a long, narrow causeway with the island of
Heung Shan. The town faces southward and,
sheltered by another island from the boisterous
gales of the China seas, is yet cooled by the re-
freshing breezes of the south, from which quarter
the wind blows most of the year in that latitude.
Victoria in our colony, on the other hand, is cut off
from them by the high Peak towering above it; and
its climate in consequence is hot and steamy in the
long and unpleasant summer. So Macao is, then,
a favourite resort of the citizens of Hong Kong.
The large, flat-bottomed steamer that runs between
the two places is generally crowded on Saturdays
with inhabitants of the British colony, going to
spend the week-end on the cooler rival island.
The commercial competition of Macao is no
longer to be dreaded. But this decaying Portu-
guese possession has recently acquired a certain
importance in the eyes of the Hong Kong author-
ities and our statesmen in England by the fears
of French aggression aroused by apparent en-
deavours to gain a footing in Macao. Attempts
have been made to purchase property in it in the
name of the French Government which are sus-
pected to be the thin end of the wedge. Although
the colony is not dangerous in the hands of its
present possessors, it might become so in the power
of more enterprising neighbours. Were it occu-
pied by the French a much larger garrison would
be required in Hong Kong. Of course, any
234 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
attempt to invade our colony from Macao would
be difficult ; as the transports could not be convoyed
by any large warships owing to the shallowness of
the sea between the two places until Hong Kong
harbour is reached. One battleship or cruiser, even
without the assistance of the forts, should suffice
to blow out of the water any vessels of sufficiently
light draught to come out of the port of Macao.
If any specially constructed, powerfully armed,
shallow-draught men-o'-war which alone would be
serviceable were sent out from Europe, their
arrival would be noted and their purpose suspected.
Still an opportunity might be seized when our
China squadron was elsewhere engaged and the
garrison of Hong Kong denuded. On the whole,
the Portuguese are preferable neighbours to the
aggressive French colonial party, which is con-
stantly seeking to extend its influence in Southern
China. In 1802 and again in 1808 Macao was
occupied by us as a precaution against its seizure
by the French.
When garrison duty in Hong Kong during the
damp, hot days of the summer palled, I once took
ten days' leave to the pleasanter climate of Macao.
I embarked in Victoria in one of the large, shallow-
draught steamers of the Hong Kong, Canton, and
Macao Steamboat Company, which keeps up the
communication between the English and Portuguese
colonies and the important Chinese city by a fleet
of some half-dozen vessels. With the exception of
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 235
one, they are all large and roomy craft from 2,000
to 3,000 tons burden. They run to, and return
from, Canton twice daily on week-days. One starts
from Hong Kong to Macao every afternoon and
returns the following morning, except on Sundays.
Between Macao and Canton they ply three times
a week. The fares are not exorbitant from
Hong Kong to Macao three dollars, to Canton
five, each way ; between Macao and Canton three.
The Hong Kong dollar in 1901 was worth about
is. lod.
The steamer on which I made the short passage
to Macao was the Heungshan (1,998 tons). She
was a large shallow-draught vessel, painted white
for the sake of coolness. She was mastless, with
one high funnel, painted black ; the upper deck
was roomy and almost unobstructed. The sides
between it and the middle deck were open ; and
a wide promenade lay all round the outer bulkheads
of the cabins on the latter. Extending from amid-
ships to near the bows were the first-class state-
rooms and a spacious, white - and - gold - panelled
saloon. For'ard of this the deck was open. Shaded
by the upper deck overhead, this formed a delight-
ful spot to laze in long chairs and gaze over the
placid water of the land-locked sea at the ever-
changing scenery. Aft on the same deck was the
second-class accommodation. Between the outer
row of cabins round the sides a large open space
was left. This was crowded with fat and prosperous-
236 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
looking Chinamen, lolling on chairs or mats, smoking
long-stemmed pipes with tiny bowls and surrounded
by piles of luggage.
Below, on the lower deck, were herded the third-
class passengers, all Chinese coolies. The com-
panion-ways leading up to the main deck were
closed by padlocked iron gratings. At the head of
each stood an armed sentry, a half-caste or Chinese
quartermaster in bluejacket-like uniform and naval
straw hat. He was equipped with carbine and
revolver ; and close by him was a rack of rifles and
cutlasses. All the steamers plying between Hong
Kong, Macao, and Canton are similarly guarded ; for
the pirates who infest the Pearl River and the net-
work of creeks near its mouth have been known to
embark on them as innocent coolies and then
suddenly rise, overpower the crew and seize the
ship. For these vessels, besides conveying specie
and cargo, have generally a number of wealthy
Chinese passengers aboard, who frequently carry
large sums of money with them.
The Heungshan cast off from the crowded,
bustling wharf and threaded her way out of Hong
Kong harbour between the numerous merchant
ships lying at anchor. In between Lantau and the
mainland we steamed over the placid water of what
seemed an inland lake. The shallow sea is here
so covered with islands that it is generally as
smooth as a mill-pond. Past stately moving junks
and fussy little steam launches we held our way.
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 237
Islands and mainland rising in green hills from the
water's edge hemmed in the narrow channel. In
about two and a half hours we sighted Macao.
We saw ahead of us a low eminence covered with
the buildings of a European-looking town. Behind
it rose a range of bleak mountains. We passed
along by a gently curving bay lined with houses
and fringed with trees, rounded a cape, and entered
the natural harbour which lies between low hills.
It was crowded with junks and sampans. In the
middle lay a trim Portuguese gunboat, the Zaire,
three-masted, with white superstructure and funnel
and black hull. The small Canton-Macao steamer
was moored to the wharf.
The quay was lined with Chinese houses, two-
or three - storied, with arched verandahs. The
Heungshan ran alongside, the hawsers were made
fast, and gangways run ashore. The Chinese pas-
sengers, carrying their baggage, trooped on to the
wharf. One of them in his hurry knocked roughly
against a Portuguese Customs officer who caught
him by the pigtail and boxed his ears in reward
for his awkwardness. It was a refreshing sight
after the pampered and petted way in which the
Chinaman is treated by the authorities in Hong
Kong. There the lowest coolie can be as im-
pertinent as he likes to Europeans, for he knows
that the white man who ventures to chastise him
for his insolence will be promptly summoned to
appear before a magistrate and fined. Our treat-
238 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
ment of the subject races throughout our Empire
errs chiefly in its lack of common justice to the
European.
Seated in a ricksha, pulled and pushed by two
coolies up steep streets, I was finally deposited at
the door of the Boa Vista Hotel. This excellent
hostelry which the French endeavoured to secure
for a naval hospital, and which has since been
purchased by the Portuguese Government was
picturesquely situated on a low hill overlooking the
town. The ground on one side fell sharply down
to the sea which lapped the rugged rocks and
sandy beach two or three hundred feet below. On
the other, from the foot of the hill, a pretty bay with
a tree-shaded esplanade called the Praia Grande
stretched away to a high cape about a mile
distant. The bay was bordered by a line of houses,
prominent among which was the Governor's Palace.
Behind them the city, built on rising ground, rose
in terraces. The buildings were all of the Southern
European type, with tiled roofs, Venetian-shuttered
windows, and walls painted pink, white, blue, or
yellow. Away in the heart of the town the gaunt,
shattered facade of a ruined church stood on
a slight eminence. Here and there small hills
crowned with the crumbling walls of ancient forts
rose up around the city.
Eager for a closer acquaintance with Macao, I
drove out that afternoon in a ricksha. I was
whirled first along the Praia Grande, which runs
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 239
around the curving bay below the hotel. On the
right-hand side lay a strongly built sea-wall. On
the tree-shaded promenade between it and the road-
way groups of the inhabitants of the city were
enjoying the cool evening breeze. Sturdy little
Portuguese soldiers in dark-blue uniforms and kdpis
strolled along in two and threes, ogling the yellow
or dark-featured Macaese ladies, a few of whom
wore mantillas. Half-caste youths, resplendent in
loud check suits and immaculate collars and cuffs,
sat on the sea-wall or, airily puffing their cheap
cigarettes, sauntered along the promenade with
languid grace. Grave citizens walked with their
families, the prettier portion of whom affected to be
demurely unconscious of the admiring looks of the
aforesaid dandies. A couple of priests in shovel
hats and long, black cassocks moved along in the
throng.
The left side of the Praia was lined with houses,
among which were some fine buildings, including
the Government, Post and Telegraph Bureaus,
commercial offices, private residences, and a large
mansion, with two projecting wings, the Governor's
Palace. At the entrance stood a sentry, while the
rest of the guard lounged near the doorway. At
the end of the Praia Grande were the pretty public
gardens, shaded by banyan trees, with flower-beds,
a bandstand, and a large building beyond it the
Military Club. Past the gate of the Gardens the
road turned away from the sea and ran between
240 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
rows of Chinese houses until it reached the long,
tree-bordered Estrada da Flora. On the left lay
cultivated land. On the right the ground sloped
gently back to a bluff hill, on which stood a light-
house, the oldest in China. At the foot of this
eminence lay the pretty summer residence of the
Governor, picturesquely named Flora, surrounded
by gardens and fenced in by a granite wall. Con-
tinuing under the name of Estrada da Bella Vista,
the road ran on to the sea and turned to the left
around a flower -bordered, terraced green mound,
at the summit of which was a look-out whence a
charming view was obtained. From this the mound
derives the name of Bella Vista. In front lay a
shallow bay. To the left the shore curved round
to a long, low, sandy causeway, which connects
Macao with the island of Heung Shan. Midway
on this stood a masonry gateway, Porta Cerco,
which marks the boundary between Portuguese and
Chinese territory. Hemmed in by a sea-wall, the
road continued from Bella Vista along above the
beach, past the isthmus, on which was a branch
road leading to the Porta, by a stretch of cultivated
ground, and round the peninsula, until it reached
the city again.
After dinner that evening, accompanied by a
friend staying at the same hotel, I strolled down
to the Public Gardens, where the police band was
playing and the "beauty and fashion" of Macao
assembled. They were crowded with gay pro-
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 241
menaders. Trim Portuguese naval or military
officers, brightly dressed ladies, soldiers, civilians,
priests and laity strolled up and down the walks or
sat on the benches. Sallow-complexioned children
chased each other round the flower-beds. Opposite
the bandstand stood a line of chairs reserved for
the Governor and his party. We met some ac-
quaintances among the few British residents in
the colony ; and one of them, being an honorary
member of the Military Club situated at one end
of the Gardens, invited us into it. We sat at one
of the little tables on the terrace, where the e"lite of
Macao drank their coffee and liqueurs, and watched
the gay groups promenading below. The scene
was animated and interesting, thoroughly typical of
the way in which Continental nations enjoy outdoor
life, as the English never can. Hong Kong, with
all its wealth and large European population, has
no similar social gathering-place ; and its citizens
wrap themselves in truly British unneighbourly
isolation.
The government of Macao is administered from
Portugal. The Governor is appointed from Europe;
and the local Senate is vested solely with the muni-
cipal administration of the colony. The garrison
consists of Portuguese artillerymen to man the forts
and a regiment of Infantry of the Line, relieved
regularly from Europe. There is also a battalion
of police, supplemented by Indian and Chinese
constables the former recruited among the natives
242 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
of the Portuguese territory of Goa on the Bombay
coast, though many of the sepoys hail from British
India. A gunboat is generally stationed in the
harbour. The troubles all over China in 1900 had
a disturbing influence even in this isolated Portu-
guese colony. An attack from Canton was feared
in Macao as well as in Hong Kong; and the utmost
vigilance was observed by the garrison. One night
heavy firing was heard from, the direction of the
Porta Cerco, the barrier on the isthmus. It was
thought that the Chinese were at last descending
on the settlement. The alarm sounded and the
troops were called out. Sailors were landed from
the Zaire with machine-guns. A British resident
in Macao told me that so prompt were the garrison
in turning out that in twenty minutes all were at
their posts and every position for defence occupied.
At each street-corner stood a strong guard ; and
machine-guns were placed so as to prevent any
attempt on the part of the Chinese in the city to
aid their fellow-countrymen outside. However, it
was found that the alarm was occasioned by the
villagers who lived just outside the boundary, firing
on the guards at the barrier in revenge for the con-
tinual insults to which their women, when passing
in and out to market in Macao, were subjected by
the Portuguese soldiers at the gate. No attack
followed and the incident had no further conse-
quences. At the close of 1901 or the beginning of
1902, more serious alarm was caused by the con-
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 243
duct of the regiment recently arrived from Portugal
in relief. Dissatisfied with their pay or at service
in the East, the men mutinied and threatened to
seize the town. The situation was difficult, as they
formed the major portion of the garrison. Eventu-
ally, however, the artillerymen, the police battalion,
and the sailors from the Zaire succeeded in over-
awing and disarming them. The ringleaders were
seized and punished, and that incident closed.
The European-born Portuguese in the colony are
few and consist chiefly of the Government officials
and their families and the troops. They look down
upon the Macaese as the colonials are called
with the supreme contempt of the pure-blooded
white man for the half-caste. For, judging from
their complexions and features, few of the Macaese
are of unmixed descent. So the Portuguese from
Europe keep rigidly aloof from them and unbend
only to the few British and Americans resident in
the colony. These are warmly welcomed in Macao
society and freely admitted into the exclusive official
circles.
On the day following my arrival, I went in
uniform to call upon the Governor in the palace
on the Praia Grande. Accompanied by a friend, I
rickshaed from the hotel to the gate of the court-
yard. The guard at the entrance saluted as we
approached ; and I endeavoured to explain the
reason of our coming to the sergeant in command.
English and French were both beyond his under-
244 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
standing ; but he called to his assistance a function-
ary, clad in gorgeous livery, who succeeded in
grasping the fact that we wished to see the aide-de-
camp to the Governor. He ushered us into a
waiting-room opening off the spacious hall. In a
few minutes a smart, good-looking officer in white
duck uniform entered. He was the aide-de-camp,
Senhor Carvalhaes. Speaking in fluent French, he
informed us that the Governor was not in the
palace but would probably soon return, and invited
us to wait. He chatted pleasantly with us, gave
us much interesting information about Macao, and
proffered his services to make our stay in Portu-
guese territory as enjoyable as he could. We soon
became on very friendly terms and he accepted an
invitation to dine with us at the hotel that night.
The sound of the guard turning out and presenting
arms told us that the Governor had returned.
Senhor Carvalhaes, praying us to excuse him, went
out to inform his Excellency of our presence. In a
few minutes the Governor entered and courteously
welcomed us to Macao. He spoke English ex-
tremely well ; although he had only begun to learn
it since he came to the colony not very long before.
After a very pleasant and friendly interview with
him we took our departure, escorted to the door
by the aide-de-camp.
On the following day I paid some calls on the
British and American residents and then went down
to the English tennis-ground, which is situated close
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 245
to Bella Vista. Here, in the afternoons, the little
colony of aliens in Macao generally assemble. The
consuls and their wives and families, with a few
missionaries and an occasional merchant, make up
their number. Close by the tennis-courts, in a high-
walled enclosure shaded by giant banyans, lies the
English cemetery.
That night a civilian from Hong Kong, Mr. Ivan
Grant- Smith, and I had an unpleasant adventure
which illustrates the scant respect with which the
segis of British power is regarded abroad. We are
prone to flatter ourselves that the world stands in
awe of our Empire's might, that the magic words,
" I am an English citizen ! " will bear us scatheless
through any danger. The following instance by
no means an isolated one of how British subjects
are often treated by the meanest officials of other
States may be instructive.
We had dined that evening at the house of one
of the English residents in Macao. The dinner,
which was to celebrate the birthday of his son, was
followed by a dance ; so that it was after one o'clock
in the morning before we left to walk back to the
hotel, about a mile away. Leaving the main streets,
we tried a short cut along a lonely road hemmed in
by high garden walls. The ground on one side
sloped up, so that the level of the enclosures was
but little below the top of the wall fronting the road.
As we passed one garden some dogs inside it, roused
by our voices, climbed on the wall and began to
246 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
bark persistently at us. In the vain hope of silencing
them, Grant- Smith threw a few stones at the noisy
animals. They barked all the more furiously. A
small gate in the wall a little distance farther on
suddenly opened and a half-dressed Portuguese
appeared. I had happened to stop to light a cigar,
and my companion had gone on ahead. The new-
comer on the scene rushed at him and poured forth
a torrent of what was evidently abuse. My friend
very pacifically endeavoured to explain by gestures
what had happened ; but the Portuguese, becoming
still more enraged, shouted for the police patrol and
blew a whistle loudly. An Indian constable ran up.
The infuriated citizen spoke to him in Portuguese
and then returned inside his garden, closing the
gate. The sepoy seized Mr. Grant- Smith by the
shoulder. I asked him in Hindustani what my
friend had done. The constable replied that he did
not know. I said, " Then why do you arrest the
sahib ? "
" Because that man " pointing to the garden
"told me to do so."
" Who is he ? " I demanded, naturally concluding
that we must have disturbed the slumbers of some
official whom the sepoy recognised.
To my astonishment he replied
" I do not know, sahib. I never saw him before."
As Grant- Smith was ignorant of Hindustani and
the Indian of English, I was forced to act as inter-
preter.
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 247
" Then," said I, "as you don't know of what the
sahib is guilty or even the name of his accuser, you
must release him."
" I cannot, sahib. I must take him to the police-
station."
Another Indian constable now came on the scene.
I explained matters to him and insisted on his
entering the garden and fetching out the com-
plainant. He went in, and in a few minutes returned
with the Portuguese hastily clad. He was in a very
bad temper at being again disturbed ; for, thinking
that he had comfortably disposed of us for the night,
he had calmly gone to bed.
We all now proceeded to a small police-station
about a mile away, passing the hotel on the road.
Furious at the unjust arrest and irritated at the
coolness of the complainant and the stupidity of the
sepoy, my friend and I were anxious to see some
superior authority. We never doubted that a prompt
release and apology, as well as a reprimand to the
over-zealous constable, would immediately follow.
British subjects were not to be treated in this high-
handed fashion !
Arrived at the station, we found only a Portuguese
constable, with a Chinese policeman lying asleep on
a guard-bed in the corner. The accuser now came
forward and charged my companion with " throwing
stones at a dwelling-house," as the Indians informed
me. Using them to interpret, I endeavoured to
explain the affair to the Portuguese constable. He
248 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
simply shrugged his shoulders, wrote down the
charge, and said that the prisoner must be taken to
the Head Police Office for the night. He added
that, there being no charge against me, I was not
concerned in the matter, and could go home.
However, as my unfortunate friend required me
as interpreter, I had no intention of abandoning
him, and accompanied him when he was marched
off to durance vile. The Portuguese policeman at
first wished to send him under the charge of the
Chinese constable, whom he woke up for the pur-
pose ; but we explained that if such an indignity
were offered us we would certainly refuse to go
quietly with the Chinaman and might damage him
on the way. He then allowed the Indian sepoys,
who were very civil, to escort us. My luckless
companion was then solemnly marched through the
town until the Head Police Office was reached,
over two miles away. It was a rambling structure
in the heart of the city, with ancient buildings and
tree-shaded courts. Down long corridors and across
a grass-grown yard we were led into a large office.
A half-open door in a partition on the left bore the
inscription, " Quarto del Sargento." On the right,
behind a large screen, a number of Portuguese
policemen lay asleep on beds. The sepoys roused
a sergeant, who sat up grumbling and surveyed
us with little friendliness. The scene was rather
amusing. My friend and I in correct evening dress,
as haughtily indignant as Britishers should be under
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 249
such circumstances, the Indian sepoys standing erect
behind us, the surly complainant, whom the light
of the office lamps revealed to be a very shoddy
and common individual, the half-awakened police-
men gazing sleepily at us from their beds, would
have made a capital tableau in a comedy. The
sergeant rose and put on his uniform. Seating
himself at a table in the office he read the charge.
Without further ado he ordered a bed to be brought
down and placed for the prisoner in the empty
" Quarto del Sargento." He then rose from the
table and prepared to retire. I stopped him and
demanded that our explanation should be listened
to. I told him, through the interpreters, that if the
ridiculous charge against my friend was to be pro-
ceeded with, he could be found at the hotel. There
was no necessity for confining him for the night,
as he could not leave Macao without the knowledge
of the authorities. The sergeant curtly replied that
as there was no complaint against me I had better
quit the police-station as soon as possible. If I
wished to give evidence for my friend, I could
attend at the magistrate's court in the morning
and do so. I informed him that I was an officer
in the British Army, and demanded to see a Portu-
guese officer. He replied that he was a sergeant,
and quite officer enough for me. His manner
throughout was excessively overbearing and offen-
sive. I then threatened to appeal to the British
Consul. I am afraid that this only amused the
250 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Portuguese policemen, who had left their beds to
come into the office and listen to the affair. They
laughed amusedly; and the sergeant, smiling grimly,
bade the interpreting sepoy tell me that he did not
care a snap of his fingers for our Consul. I then
played my trump card. I demanded that a message
should be immediately conveyed to the aide-de-
camp of the Governor, to the effect that one of
his English friends with whom he had dined the
previous night had been arrested. The effect was
electrical. As soon as my speech had been trans-
lated to them, all the Portuguese policemen became
at once extremely civil. The sergeant rushed to
a telephone and rang up the police officer on duty.
I caught the words "ufficiales Inglesos" and
" amigos del Senhor Carvalhaes." After a long
conversation over the wire he returned smiling
civilly, saluted, and said that my companion could
leave the station at once. Would he have the
supreme kindness to attend at the magistrate's court
at ten o'clock in the morning? If he did not know
where it was, a constable would be sent to the hotel
to guide him.
We marched out with the honours of war. With
profuse courtesy we were escorted out of the police-
station, a sentry shouldering arms to us as we
passed ; and the sergeant accompanied us to the
outer gate, where he parted from us with an
elaborate salute.
We reached the hotel about 3.30 a.m. Before
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 251
nine o'clock I presented myself at the palace, where
I interviewed Senhor Carvalhaes and recounted
the whole affair to him. He was indignant at the
conduct of the police. He told me that we need
not attend the court, as he would settle the matter
himself. Later on my friend and I saw the British
Consul, whom we knew personally, and told him
all that had happened. He said that he could not
have helped us in the least had we appealed to
him. Some time previous an English colonel, in
company with several ladies, had been arrested by
the police for not removing his hat when a religious
procession passed. As this officer happened to be
a Roman Catholic, his action was not meant to
be disrespectful. He was not released until the
British Consul had interviewed the Governor. By
a curious coincidence I met this colonel some months
later in Seoul, the capital of Corea.
That afternoon Grant- Smith and I were invited
to the Portuguese Naval Tennis Club ground
near Flora, the Governor's summer residence.
Carvalhaes, who was present, came to me and
told me that the affair was settled. The trumpery
charge had been dismissed ; and the Indian con-
stable who had arrested Grant-Smith had been
punished with six weeks' imprisonment. As the
unfortunate sepoy had only done what he con-
sidered his duty and had been very civil throughout,
as well as helping me considerably by interpreting,
I begged that the punishment should be transferred
252 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
from him to the discourteous Portuguese sergeant.
On my representations the Indian was released; but
I doubt if the man of the dominant caste received
even a reprimand.
Our adventure was now common property. We
were freely chaffed about the arrest by the Portu-
guese officers and the British residents present at
the Tennis Club. The wife of the Governor laugh-
ingly bade one of the English ladies bring up the
"prisoner" and present him to her.
When one reflects that this quaint and old-world
little Portuguese colony is only forty miles from
Hong Kong with its large garrison, our treatment
by its insolent subordinate officials does not say
much for the respect for England's might which we
imagine is felt throughout the world.
I had another experience of an arrest in Japan.
The spy mania is rife in that country; and no photo-
graphing is permitted in the fortified seaports or in
large tracts of country ''reserved for military pur-
poses." In the important naval station of Yuko-
suka, an hour's journey by train from Yokohama,
an American gentleman and I were taken into
custody by a policeman for merely carrying a
camera which, knowing the regulations, we had
been careful not to use. We found afterwards that
our ricksha coolies had given information. I was
fortunately able to speak Japanese sufficiently well
to explain to our captor that we had no intention of
taking surreptitious photographs of the warships in
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 253
the harbour. I pointed out that as most of these
vessels had been built in England it was hardly
necessary for a Britisher to come to Japan to get
information about them. Our little policeman
with the ready capacity of his countrymen for see-
ing the feeblest joke was immensely tickled. He
laughed heartily and released us. But shortly after-
wards an Italian officer, on his way to attend the
Japanese military manoeuvres, innocently took some
photographs of the scenery near Shimoneseki. He
was promptly arrested and subsequently fined forty
yen (4) for the offence. A few days later an
Englishman at Moji was taken into custody for the
same crime. Moral : do not carry a camera in
Japan ; content yourself with the excellent and
cheap photographs to be obtained everywhere in
that country of delightful scenery.
To return to Macao. Its greatly advertised
attraction is the famous Chinese gambling-houses,
from the taxes on which is derived a large portion
of the revenues of the colony. Most visitors go to
see them and stake a dollar or two on the fan-tan
tables. I did likewise and was disappointed to find
the famed saloons merely small Chinese houses, the
interiors glittering with tawdry gilt wood carving
and blazing at night with evil-smelling oil lamps.
On the ground floor stands a large table, at the
head of which sits the croupier, generally a very
bored-looking old Chinaman. Along the sides are
the players, who occasionally lose the phlegmatic
254 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
calm of their race in their excitement. On the
"board" squares are described, numbered i, 2, 3,
and 4. On them the money is staked. The croupier
places a handful of "cash," which are small coins,
on the table and covers them with an inverted
bowl. The number of them is not counted, as he
takes them at random from a pile beside him. As
soon as all the stakes are laid down, he lifts the
bowl and with a chopstick counts the coins in fours.
The number left at the end, which must be one,
two, three, or four, represents the winning number.
The bank pays three times the stake deposited, less
ten per cent., which is kept as its own share of the
winnings. In a gallery overhead sit European
visitors and more important Chinamen who do not
wish to mix with the common herd around the table.
Their stakes are collected by an attendant who
lowers them in a bag at the end of a long string,
and the croupier places them where desired. Fan-
tan is not exciting. The counting of the coins is
tedious and the calculations of the amounts to be
paid out to the winners takes so long that the game
becomes exceedingly wearisome.
Other attractions of Macao are the ruins of the
old cathedral of San Paulo, built in 1602 and de-
stroyed by fire in 1835, of which the fagade still
remains in good preservation ; and the Gardens of
Camoens, with a bust of the famous Portuguese
poet placed in a picturesque grotto formed by a
group of huge boulders. Camoens visited Macao,
PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO 255
after voyaging to Goa and the East by way of the
Cape of Good Hope.
In the basements of some of the older houses in
Macao are the Barracoons, relics of the coolie
traffic suppressed in 1874. They are large chambers
where the coolies, to be shipped as labourers to
foreign parts, were lodged while awaiting exporta-
tion. Among other points of interest near the city
is the curious natural phenomenon known as the
Ringing Rocks. They are reached by boat to
Lappa. They consist of a number of huge granite
boulders, supposed to be of some metallic forma-
tion, picturesquely grouped together, which, when
struck, give out a clear bell-like note, which dies
away in gradually fainter vibrations. Altogether
Macao is well worthy of a visit. The contrast
between the sleepy old-world city, which looks like
a town in Southern Europe, and bustling, thriving
Hong Kong, all that is modern and business-like,
is very striking. For the moneymaker the English
colony ; for the dreamer Macao.
CHAPTER XI
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON
CANTON is, to foreigners, probably the best-
known and most frequently visited city of
China. Its proximity to, and ready accessibility
from Hong Kong, whence it is easily reached by
a line of large river steamers, renders it a favourite
place with travellers to the East to spend a portion
of the time the mailboats usually stop in the English
harbour. A small colony of Europeans, consuls
and merchants of several nationalities, reside in its
foreign settlement. Its considerable trade and its
occupation by the Allies after the war of 1856-7
directed much attention to it. Owing to its easy
access, no other city in the Chinese Empire has
been so frequently described by European writers.
Rudyard Kipling, in his fascinating " From Sea to
Sea/' paints a marvellous word-picture of the life
in its crowded streets. But it is so bound up with
the interests of Hong Kong, its constant menace
to our colony, and the suspected designs of French
aggression, that still something new may be said
about it. Despite its constant trade intercourse
with Europeans, Canton remains anti-foreign. Its
inhabitants have not forgotten or forgiven its
256
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 257
capture and occupation by the English and French
in the past. After the Boxer movement in the
North in 1900, many fears were entertained in
Hong Kong lest a still more formidable out-
break against foreigners in the South might be
inaugurated by the turbulent population of the
restless city. The Europeans in Canton sent their
families in haste to Hong Kong and Macao;
wealthy Chinamen transferred their money to the
banks in the former place ; gunboats were hurried
up; and the garrison of our island colony stood ready.
The history of Canton's intercourse with for-
eigners dates as far back as the eighth century.
Two hundred years later it was visited by Arab
traders, who were instrumental in introducing
Mohammedanism, which still remains alive in the
city. In 1517 Emmanuel, King of Portugal, sent
an ambassador with a fleet of eight ships to Pekin ;
and the Chinese Emperor sanctioned the opening
of trade relations with Canton. The English were
much later in the field. In 1596, during the reign
of Elizabeth, our first attempt to establish inter-
course with China ended disastrously, as the two
ships despatched were lost on the outward voyage.
The first English vessel to reach Canton arrived
there in 1634. In the light of the present state of
affairs in the East, it is curious to note that an
English ship which visited China in 1673 was subse-
quently refused admittance to Japan. In 1615 the
city was captured by the Tartars.
258 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
About half a century later the famous East India
Company established itself under the walls of
Canton, and from there controlled the foreign trade
for nearly one hundred and fifty years. After much
vexatious interference by the native authorities, the
influence of the Company was abolished early in
the nineteenth century. The conduct of the Chinese
Government as regards our commerce led to our
declaring war in 1839. In 1841 a force under Sir
Hugh (afterwards Lord) Gough surrounded Canton
and prepared to capture it. But negotiations were
opened by the Chinese, which ended in their being
allowed to ransom the city by the payment of the
large sum of six million dollars. The war was
transferred farther north and ended with the Nan-
king Treaty of August, 1842, which threw open to
foreign trade the ports of Shanghai, Ning-po,
Foochow, and Amoy. It was further stipulated
that foreigners were to be permitted to enter the
city of Canton. This provision, however, the
Chinese refused to carry out. More vexatious
quarrels and an insult to the British flag by the
seizure of a Chinaman on the Arrow, a small vessel
sailing under our colours, led to a fresh war in 1856.
The outbreak of hostilities was followed by the
pillaging and destruction of the " factories " of the
foreign merchants in Canton by an infuriated mob
in the December of that year. In 1857 the city
was taken by storm by a force under Sir Charles
Straubenzee. For four years afterwards it was
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 259
occupied by an English and French garrison. The
affairs of the city were administered by three allied
commissioners two English and one French officer
under the British General. They held their court
in the Tartar General's Yamen, part of which is still
used by the English Consul for official receptions.
Since the allied garrison was withdrawn Canton has
been freely open to foreigners.
On the conclusion of peace it was necessary to
find a settlement for the European merchants whose
factories had been destroyed. It was determined to
fill in and appropriate an extensive mud-flat lying
near the north bank of the river and south-west of
the city. This site having been leased, was con-
verted into an artificial island by building a massive
embankment of granite and constructing a canal,
100 feet wide, between the northern face and the
adjacent Chinese suburb. The ground thus re-
claimed measures about 950 yards in length and
320 yards broad in its widest part. It is in shape
an irregular oval, and is called Shameen, or, more
proper, Sha-mien, i.e. sand-flats. The island is
divided into the English and the French Conces-
sions. On it the consulates and the residences of
the foreign merchants are built. The canal is
crossed by two bridges, called respectively the
English and the French, which can be closed by
gates. They are guarded by the Settlement police.
The cost of making the island amounted to 325,000
dollars (Mex.); of which the English Government
260 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
paid four-fifths and the French one-fifth. At first
foreigners hesitated to occupy it ; but after the
British Consulate was erected in 1865, our mer-
chants began to build upon it with more confidence.
The journey from Hong Kong to Canton is very
comfortably performed on the commodious shallow-
draught steamers that ply between the two cities.
I left the island one afternoon with a party of
friends. The scenery along the rugged coast and
among the hilly islands to the flat delta at the
mouth of the estuary with its countless creeks, still
haunted by pirates, is charming. As we steamed
up the river we could see, moving apparently among
the fields, the huge sails of junks which in reality
were sailing on the canals that intersect the country.
After dinner I sat on deck with a very charming
companion and watched the shadowy banks gliding
past in the moonlight. Turning in for the night
in a comfortable cabin, I slept until eight o'clock
next morning, and awoke to find the steamer along-
side the river bank at Canton.
The scene from the deck was animated and
picturesque. On one side lay the crowded houses
and grim old walls of the city. The wharves were
thronged with bustling crowds. On the other,
beyond the island suburb of Honam, the country
stretched away in cultivation to low hills in the
distance. The river was thronged with countless
covered boats ; for the floating population of Canton
amounts to about a quarter of a million souls, and
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 261
the crowded sampans lying in a dense mass on
the water form a separate town from the city on
the land. It is almost self-containing and its in-
habitants ply every imaginable trade. Peddlers of
food, vegetables, fruit, pots, pans, and wares of all
kinds paddled their boats along and shouted their
stock-in-trade. Here and there a sampan was
being extricated with difficulty from the closely
packed mass, its crew earning voluble curses from
their neighbours as they disentangled their craft
and shot out into the stream.
I gazed over the steamer's side at the crowded
wharf. Chinese or half-caste Portuguese Customs
officers rapidly scanned the baggage of the pig-tailed
passengers as they landed, now and then stopping
one and making him open the bundles he carried.
Opium-smuggling is the chief thing they guard
against, for Hong Kong is a free port.
The city of Canton lies on the north bank of the
Pearl River, about seventy or eighty miles from the
sea. It is surrounded by an irregular masonry wall,
twenty-five feet high, twenty feet thick, and six
or seven miles in circumference. This fortification
is by no means as strong as the famous Wall of the
Tartar city in Pekin and could be easily breached
by the fire of heavy guns. Good artillery positions
are to be found all round. A few miles north of
the city lie hills rising 1,200 feet above the river.
As the southern wall is only a few hundred yards
from the bank, it could be destroyed and the city
262 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
bombarded without difficulty by gunboats, some of
which English, French, and German are nearly
always lying off Shameen. The Chinese, however,
are reported to be quietly erecting modern, well-
armed forts around the city ; but were a powerful
flotilla once anchored opposite it, it would be
doomed.
Canton is divided into the old and the new city.
The latter, the southern enclosure, was added in
1568, extending the ramparts almost to the river
bank. The wall of the older portion still divides
the two as in Pekin. On the north this wall rises
to include a hill. On the other three sides Canton
is surrounded by a ditch, which is filled by the rising
tide. There are twelve outer gates and four in the
partition wall. Two water-gates admit boats along
a canal which pierces the new city east and west.
The gates are closed at night ; and in the daytime
soldiers are stationed near them to preserve order.
As the policing of the city is very bad, the in-
habitants of streets and wards frequently join in
maintaining guards for the protection of their re-
spective quarters.
The old city, which is very much the larger of the
two, contains most of the important buildings. In
it are the yamens of the Viceroy, the Major- General,
the Treasurer, the Chancellor, the Tartar General
and Major-General, and of the British Consul, as
well as the prisons, the Examination Hall, the
pagodas, and the numerous temples, of which there
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 263
are over 120 in or about Canton. The streets
number over 600 in both cities.
In the new town facing the river is the French
Missions Roman Catholic Cathedral, a beautiful
building of the perpendicular Gothic style of archi-
tecture with lofty spires. It is embellished with
magnificent stained-glass windows and polished
teak- wood carvings. It is built on the site of the
old residence of the Governor-General, destroyed
during the bombardment by the Allies.
On the south, west, and east sides of the city
and across the river on Honam Island, suburbs
have sprung up, and including them it has a circum-
ference of nearly ten miles. The houses stretch for
four miles along the river ; and the banks of boats
extend for four or five miles. Out in the stream
may often be seen huge junks 600 to 1,000 tons
burden, which trade with the North and the Straits
Settlements.
In 1874 the population of Canton was 1,500,000,
including the floating town of 230,000, and the in-
habitants of Honam 100,000. The number has
probably largely increased.
Going ashore we installed ourselves in long-poled
open chairs, borne by energetic coolies. As they
went along rapidly at a shambling half-trot, they
shouted loudly to the lounging crowds to clear the
way. Into the network of narrow streets in the
city we plunged. The houses are different to those
in Pekin. They are generally of more than one
264 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
story, well built of brick, with thick walls and veran-
dahs along the fronts of the upper floors. The
shops have little frontage, but extend far back.
The streets, paved with stone or brick, are dark-
ened by overhead reed matting, supported by
wooden frames, which stretch across them to shade
them from the sun. So narrow are even the prin-
cipal thoroughfares that two chairs can hardly pass
each other. With much shouting and sing-song
abuse the coolies carrying one are forced to back
into the nearest shop and let the other go by. The
vistas along these narrow, shaded streets, with their
long, hanging, gilt-lettered sign-boards red, white,
or black are full of quaint charm. The busy
crowds of Chinese foot passengers hurry silently
along, their felt-soled shoes making no sound on
the pavement. Contrary to what I had always
heard of them, the Canton populace struck me as
not being so insolent or hostile to Europeans as
they are reputed. As our chairs moved along, the
bearers thrusting the crowds aside with scant cere-
mony, very little notice was taken of us. A few
remarks were made by the bystanders, which one
of our party, who spoke Cantonese, told me were
anything but complimentary. But all that day
throughout the city I found the demeanour of the
people much less offensive than a Chinaman in the
lower quarters of London would.
The shops were filled with articles of European
manufacture. Clocks, cloth, oleographs, lamps, kero-
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 265
sene oil tins, even sewing-machines were for sale.
Eating-houses, tea shops, stalls covered with the
usual weird forms of food, raw or cooked, abounded.
The Chinaman has a catholic taste. Horseflesh,
dogs, cats, hawks, owls, sharks' fins, and birds' nests
are freely sold in Canton for human consumption.
Carpenters were busy making the substantial furni-
ture to be found in almost every Chinese house.
Blacksmiths and coppersmiths added the noises of
their trades to the din that resounded through the
narrow streets. Peddlers with their wares spread
about them on the ground helped to choke the con-
gested thoroughfares. Beggars shouted loudly for
alms and drew the attention of the passers-by to
their disgusting sores and deformities.
Canton is famous for its ivory carvers and the
artists in the beautiful feather work, the making of
which seems to be confined to this city. As I
wished to purchase some specimens of this unique
art, our party stopped at an establishment famed
for its production. The shop was lofty but dark.
The owner came forward to receive us, and spread
on the counter a large selection of ornaments for
our inspection. Trinkets of all kinds, lace -pins,
pendants, brooches were exhibited, all evidently
made for European purchasers. The designs were
very pretty. Large butterflies shone with the re-
flected lights and golden lustre of the beautiful
green and blue plumage of the kingfisher. Tiny
fishes delicately fashioned, birds of paradise, flowers
266 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
were all reproduced in flimsy gold or silver work.
Learning that I was anxious to see the process of
the manufacture, the proprietor led me over to
watch one of the workmen who sat around busily
employed. On a metal ground-work with raised
edges and lines the feathers are fastened to repro-
duce the colours of the designs. With nimble
fingers and delicate pincers the tiny strips of plum-
age are laid on and cemented. Keen sight is
required for the work ; and the proprietor told me
that the eyes of the workmen engaged in it soon
fail. It takes five years for an apprentice to
thoroughly learn the art ; and after he has laboured
at it for two years more his vision becomes so ob-
scured that he has to give it up and seek some
other occupation. It is little wonder ; for the shops
in these narrow, shaded streets are always dark,
and the artificial light generally used is furnished
only by the cheapest European lamps. The prices
of the various articles are very moderate, when one
considers the delicacy and beauty of the work.
Butterflies an inch across can be purchased for two
or three dollars.
Our next visit was paid to the workers in ivory.
Here, in a similarly dark shop, men were employed
in carving most exquisitely delicate flowers, scenes,
and figures. Brushes, mirror-frames, fans, glove-
stretchers, penholders, card-cases, and boxes of all
sizes were being fashioned and adorned. I was par-
ticularly interested in the making of those curious
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 267
Chinese puzzle - balls, which contain one within
another a dozen or more spheres, all down to the
innermost one covered with beautiful carvings which
can be seen through the round holes pierced in the
sides. The owner of the shop showed me an
apprentice learning how to make them and prac-
tising on an old billiard ball. Holes are drilled
down to the depth which will be the circumference
of the second outermost ball. A graving tool,
hooked like a hoe, is introduced into them and
worked round until there is a complete solid sphere
detached inside. It is then carved in designs, every
part being reached by turning the ball round until
each portion of the surface has come opposite one
of the holes through which the carving instrument
can reach it. Then a similar process is gone
through at a greater depth from the outside, which
gives the third outermost sphere ; and so on until
the innermost ball is reached, which is carved and
left solid. There are sometimes as many as twenty-
four of these graduated spheres. To one who has
never seen how they are made it seems impossible
to understand how these balls within balls are
carved. Sections of elephants' tusks lay about in
the shop to prove to the customers that only real
ivory is employed ; but bone is often used in the
making of cheaper articles.
In this trade, too, good sight is necessary; and
the proprietor of this establishment told me that the
eyes of his workmen soon give out. Here, again,
268 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
the bad light was responsible. In Kioto, in Japan,
I have watched men engaged in damascene or inlay
work in dingy attics lighted only by small, smoky
oil lamps, and was not surprised to learn that their
sight did not last long.
We next inspected some embroidery shops, where
specimens of wonderful work, both new and old,
were to be seen. The latter come chiefly from the
numerous pawnshops, the tall towers of which rise
everywhere throughout the city ; for they receive
annually large quantities of old garments, sold by
members of ancient but impoverished families who
are forced to part with the wardrobes that have
come down to them through many generations.
Magnificent mandarins' , state costumes may be
obtained for from forty to eighty or a hundred
dollars. Some of the embroidery is undoubtedly
antique and valuable ; but a good deal of it sold
as old consists of new and inferior substitutions and
even of European -manufactured imitations of the
real article. This the white man in his innocence
buys and goes on his way rejoicing, until some
connoisseur among his female friends points out his
error and leaves him abashed at his own ignorance.
Porcelain, jade, blackwood furniture, silk, bronze,
and curio shops abound in the city. The contrast
between the energetic, business-like tradesmen of
Canton, always ready to cater for the European
market, and the phlegmatic shopkeepers of Pekin
is very marked.
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 269
We now visited the Flowery Forest Monastery
or Temple of the Five Hundred Genii, which is
said to have been founded in A.D. 500, and which
was rebuilt some forty years ago. It stands out-
side the western wall of the city. It comprises
many buildings and courts ; but the most interesting
portion is the hall, which contains the images of the
five hundred disciples of Buddha. The statues are
life-size. Their countenances are supposed to re-
present the supreme content of Nirvana ; but their
weird and grotesque expressions and the air of
jollity and devil-may-careness on some of them is
unintentionally ludicrous. Among the images is
one said to represent Marco Polo, one of the
earliest pioneers of discovery in the East. No one
knows why the celebrated Italian traveller is in-
cluded among the immortals.
A more interesting sight was the prison in the
old city. On a stone outside the open gate sat
a criminal weighted down with the cangue, a heavy
board fastened round the neck. It prevents the
luckless wearer from using his hands to feed him-
self or brush away the tormenting swarms of flies
which settle on his face. He cannot reach his
mouth, and must starve unless a relative or some
charitable person can be found to give him food.
As the cangue is never removed night or day he
cannot lie down, but is forced to sit on the ground
and prop himself against a wall and snatch what
sleep he can in that uncomfortable and constrained
270 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
position. I must say that this particular gentleman
seemed very indifferent to his wooden collar. He
was chatting pleasantly with some passers-by in the
street and turned his head to survey us with mild
curiosity. The cangue, by the way, is only a minor
penalty used for thieves, petty larcenists, and such
small fry. For the punishment of graver crimes
much more elaborate tortures have been reserved.
As we passed into the prison we saw a few offenders
chained to iron bars in the outer court. A Chinese
warder unlocked a gate leading into a small yard
crowded with prisoners, who rushed towards us
and insolently demanded alms ; for the Government
waste no money in feeding their criminals who are
obliged to rely on the kindness of the charitable.
One particularly cheeky youth a pickpocket, I
was told coolly demanded the cigar I was smoking.
When I gave it to him he put it in his mouth and
strutted up and down the yard to the amusement
of his companions in misfortune. His gratitude
was not overpowering, for he uttered some remarks,
which my Cantonese-speaking friend told me were
particularly insulting. As the prisoners became very
troublesome in their noisy demands, the warder
pushed them back into the yard and shut the gate,
having to rap some of them over the knuckles with
his keys before he could do so. There were no
especial horrors to be seen. The prisoners seemed
cheerful enough ; and none of the awful misery I had
always associated with Chinese jails was apparent.
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 271
But when the Celestial authorities wish to punish
an offender severely they have a varied and in-
genious collection of tortures on hand. The ling-
cki, or death of a thousand cuts, is hardly to be
surpassed for fiendish cruelty. The unfortunate
criminal is turned over to the executioner, who
stabs him everywhere with a sharp sword, carefully
avoiding a vital spot. Then he cuts off fingers,
toes, hands, feet, arms, and legs in succession, and
finally severs the head, if the unhappy wretch
has not already expired. If the doomed man is
possessed of money he can bribe the executioner
to kill him at the first blow ; and the subsequent
mutilations are performed only on a lifeless corpse.
Another ingenious device is to place the criminal
naked in a net and trice it up tightly around him,
until his flesh bulges out through the meshes.
Then, wherever it protrudes the executioner slices
it off with a sharp knife. The unhappy wretch is
taken back to prison, released from the net and
thrown into a cell. No attempt is made to staunch
the blood or salve the wounds unless death is
feared. This must be averted ; for a week or so
later he has to be brought out again and the
process repeated. Along the river bank near Can-
ton criminals were exposed in cages, through the
top of which their heads protruded in such a
fashion that the weight of the body was supported
only by the chin and neck. The feet did not touch
the bottom of the cage, but a sharp spike was
272 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
placed to rest them on when the strain on the neck
became unendurable. Here the poor wretches
were left to expire of exhaustion or die of starva-
tion. After such tortures beheading seems a
merciful punishment.
When I considered the Chinaman's innate love
of cruelty, I could understand why the next spot
we visited was a very popular place of worship
and a favourite resort for all the loafers of the city.
It was the Temple of Horrors. Along each side
of the principal court ran sheds, divided by parti-
tions. In them behind wooden palings was a
weird collection of groups of figures modelled to
represent the various punishments of the Buddhist
hell. The sheds were dark and it was difficult to
see the interiors plainly. But quite enough was
visible. In one compartment a couple of horrible
devils were sawing a condemned wretch in two.
In another, demons were thrusting a man into a
huge boiler. Judging from the agonised expres-
sion on his face, the water must have been uncom-
fortably warm. In a third, the condemned soul or
body was being ground in a press. Others were
being roasted before huge fires, stuck all over with
knives, having their eyes gouged out, being torn
limb from limb. I fancy that the artist who de-
signed these groups could have commanded a large
salary as Inventor of Tortures from the Chinese
authorities of his day.
Another place of interest is the Examination
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 273
Hall, where every three years candidates from all
parts of China assemble to compete for Govern-
ment appointments. Young men and old, boys of
eighteen and dotards of eighty, attend, eager to
grasp the lowest rung of the official ladder which
may lead them, though with soiled hands, to rank
and wealth. The coveted buttons which mark the
various grades of mandarin are here dangled before
their eyes.
When one reflects that success in these competi-
tions will lead to posts, not only as magistrates, but
also as officers in the army, as officials of modern-
equipped arsenals, of departments of customs and
telegraphs, or to positions which will bring them
into contact with foreigners, one naturally thinks
that the previous course of studies of the candidates
will have fitted them for such appointments. Far
from it. At the examinations a single text from
Confucius or some other ancient author is set as a
subject for a lengthy essay. For twenty-four hours
or longer the candidates are shut up in their cells
to expand upon it. The examiners then read the
result of their labours and recommend them on
their proficiency in composition and acquaintance
with the ancient classics of China. Even an
English university curriculum is better fitted to
equip a student for success in the world.
The Examination Hall consists of rows of closely-
packed lanes of small brick cells (about 12,000 in
number) running at right angles off a long paved
274 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
causeway, which is approached through an archway
called the Dragon Gate. At the far end of this
causeway are apartments for the examiners twelve
in number, two chiefs and ten juniors who have
been sent from Pekin. Quarters are also provided
for the Viceroy and the Governor of the province,
who are both obliged to be present during the
examinations. The cells in which the candidates
are immured are 6 feet high, 5^- feet long, and less
than 4 feet broad, and open only on to the narrow
lanes between the rows of sheds. From a high
tower strict watch is kept to prevent any collusion
between the competitors.
Tired of sight-seeing, our party now returned to
the river and crossed into Shameen by the small
English Bridge spanning the canal between island
and shore. A good lunch at the pretty little hotel
prepared us for a stroll around the foreign settle-
ment.
Shameen is now a pretty island with fine avenues
of banyan trees, charming gardens, a row of excellent
tennis-courts, and handsome, well-built houses, the
residences of the foreign consuls and merchants.
A tree-shaded promenade lined the southern bank
along the river. Moored to the shore were several
English, American, French, and German gunboats.
Their flags and the European-looking houses made
us almost forget that we were still within a stone's-
throw of a large Chinese city. But the swarms
of sampans, the curious country-boats moved by
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 275
stern -wheels worked by men on a treadmill -like
contrivance, the banging of crackers and booming
of gongs in a temple behind the island recalled us
to the remembrance. We walked along by the
river bank, crossed the canal by the French Bridge,
and returned on board our steamer.
Canton, with its acres of crowded houses, its old
walls, and ancient shrines, is a curious contrast to
modern, up-to-date Hong Kong. Yet each in its
way is equally alive and humming with busy trade,
for the Chinese city exports and imports largely.
It is the channel through which the commerce of
Europe flows in and the products of China find their
way out to the foreign markets. It manufactures
largely glassware, pottery, metal work, paper, black-
wood furniture, preserved ginger, medicine, etc. It
is the granary and supply depot of Hong Kong.
The Cantonese merchants are keen business men
and cater largely for the European customer. Nearly
all the native silver work, embroidery, silks, and
curios in the large shops of our colony come from
Canton.
The focus of trade with Southern China, the pro-
posed terminus of the railway to Kowloon, the
food-supplier of Hong Kong, its development and
retention in Chinese hands is of vast importance to
English commerce. The French are freely credited
with designs upon it. Their determined efforts to
firmly establish their own influence there and dis-
place the British favour the suspicion. In their Con-
276 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
cession on Shameen they have established, without
the consent of China, their own post office, where
they use their colonial stamps surcharged " Canton."
Their gunboats anchor where they like in the river,
the commanders calmly ignoring the efforts of the
Chinese officials to restrict them to the part allotted
to foreign warships. On the occurrence of any out-
rages on their subjects or the converts of their
missionaries, the French consuls act with energy and
determination. When any such happen in the
vicinity of Canton or up the West River, not content
with complaints or remonstrances to the Chinese
authorities, which usually have little effect, they
insist on immediate redress. They generally ac-
company in person the official deputed to proceed
to the scene of the outrage and investigate the
affair. This energetic conduct is in marked contrast
to the supineness of some of our consuls. A late
British representative aroused much disgust among
naval and military officers and our merchants by his
want of resolution and his tender regard for Chinese
susceptibilities. When one of our gunboats was
fired on up the river, its commander immediately
reported the matter to him. Our official feebly
remonstrated with the authorities, and instructed
the commander to return with his ship to the
village near the scene of the outrage and fire off a
Maxim into the river-bank ! This was to show
the misguided peasantry of what the gunboat was
capable, if action were necessary. As the Orientals
A GLIMPSE OF CANTON 277
respect only those who can use as well as show their
power, the Chinese are not much impressed with us.
The contrast between our forbearance and the deter-
mined conduct of the French is too marked. Their
gunboats patrol the rivers and show the flag of their
country everywhere. Their efforts seem directed
towards spreading the region of their influence in-
land from the south to meet the Russian sphere in
the north. This is to cut us off from our possessions
in Burma and prevent any British railway being
constructed from that country to the eastern coast
of China, thus tapping the hitherto undeveloped
resources of the interior.
An attack on Canton from the sea would be a far
more difficult task now than formerly. The Bogue
forts on the Pearl River, up which an invading
flotilla must force its way, have been modernised
and re-armed with powerful guns. Hills are found
within easy range of the river, from which the gun-
boats and shallow -draught vessels, which alone
could attempt the passage, could be shelled at a
range precluding any response from their feebler
weapons. And the Chinese gunners are not all to
be despised, as Admiral Seymour's column and the
gallant defenders of Tientsin found to their cost.
The land approach would not be much easier.
The country near the mouth of the river is inter-
sected by creeks and canals. Even farther up, no
roads are available for wheeled transport. An ad-
vance from the British territory of the Kowloon
278 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Hinterland would probably be preferable to a land-
ing on the coast, though the route is longer. The
hills beyond Samchun might prove a formidable
barrier ; but those once passed the difficulties would
not be insuperable. The inhabitants of the southern
provinces are not warlike ; and the troops there
have not been reorganised and disciplined like
some in the north.
CHAPTER XII
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE
E OK ING upon the map of China to-day, Eng-
land might well say with Clive, " I stand
amazed at my own moderation." If thirty years ago
she had seized upon the whole of that vast empire,
no other Power in the world would have dared to
say her nay. She was undisputed mistress of the
Eastern seas. Russia had not then reached the
shores of the Pacific and her hands were busily
employed in the centre of Asia. Germany had
only just become a nation, and had not yet dreamt
of contending with England for the commerce of
the world. France lay crushed beneath the weight
of an overwhelming defeat ; and her voice was un-
heard in the councils of the nations. The United
States of America had no thought of realms beyond
the sea ; their fleet was small, and the markets of
Asia held no temptation for their merchants.
Japan was but a name. The Meiji, the eventful
revolution that freed her from the iron fetters of
hide-bound ignorance, was scarcely ten years old ;
and even its authors scarce dared to hope that their
little islands would one day rank high among the
civilised Powers of the world.
279
2 8o THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
And China itself, that unwieldy Colossus, lay
a helpless prey to any strong nation that placed
aggrandisement before the claims of abstract justice.
The prize was tempting. An immense empire that
stretched from the snows of the North to the burn-
ing heats of the torrid zone ; a land of incredible
fertility, of vast mineral wealth, the value of which
can even now be only vaguely guessed at ; a teem-
ing population of industrious and easily-contented
millions ; an enormous seaboard with natural har-
bours that could shelter the navies of the world;
navigable rivers that pierced to the heart of the
land and offered themselves as veritable highways
of commerce ; all the riches that the earth could
bear on its surface or hide in its bosom what a
guerdon to the victor !
The conquest of China might daunt the faint-
hearted from the apparent immensity of the task ;
but few countries would have proved an easier
prize. Her army was composed of a heterogeneous
collection of ill-armed militia, whose weapons were
more frequently the spear and the bow than the
modern rifle. The Chinaman is, by nature, a lover
of peace. War he abhors ; and the profession of a
soldier, honoured among other races, is held by him
in utter contempt. Unpaid, uncared for, ill-treated,
and despised, the troops had to be driven to battle
and could not withstand a determined attack. And
behind them was no high-spirited nation ready to
risk all in the defence of the motherland. Patriot-
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE 281
ism is unknown. The love of country, so strong in
other peoples, is non-existent in the heart of the
average Chinaman. With aught beyond the limits
of his village, he has no concern^ No other race
in the world can boast so deep a love of family.
To save his relatives from poverty, the Celestial
will go willingly to his death. According to their
laws a criminal cannot be slain unless he has con-
fessed his crime. To wring this confession from
him, tortures inconceivable in their fiendish malig-
nity are heaped upon him. A speedy death would
be a boon. But to acknowledge his guilt and die
by the hands of the public executioner would en-
tail the forfeiture of all his property to the State,
and his family would be beggared. So, grimly un-
complaining, he submits for their sake to agonies
that no white man could endure. A rich man con-
demned to death can generally purchase a substi-
tute, can find a poverty-stricken wretch willing to
die in his stead for a sum of money that will place
his starving relatives in comparative affluence.
All this the poor Chinaman will do for those he
loves. How many white men would do the same ?
But why should he die for his country ? he asks.
Why sacrifice himself and those near and dear to
him for the honour of a shadowy Emperor? Why
should he lay down his life that the officials who
oppress the poor and wrest his hard-earned money
from him may flourish unmolested ? He is told that
the Japanese, yellow men like himself, have invaded
282 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
the land and defeated the Imperial troops. Well,
the enemies are thousands of miles away from him,
and the soldiers are paid to fight. What is it to
him that strangers have seized upon some seaport,
the name of which he has never heard before ? Let
those whom it concerns go out and fight them. His
duty is to stay at home and till the ground that his
family may not lack food.
A few of the more enlightened Chinamen of the
upper classes, those who have lived abroad in
Europe or America, in Australia, Hong Kong, and
the Straits Settlements, or who have been educated
in European colleges, may be inspired with the
love of country as we understand it. But have the
leaders of the nation, the nobles and the mandarins,
ever been ready to sacrifice themselves for China ?
They batten on its misfortunes. The higher in
rank they are the readier they prove themselves to
intrigue with its enemies and sell their country for
foreign gold. They drive the common folk to battle
and stay at home themselves. The generals and
the officers, with few exceptions, are never found
in front of their troops in action, unless when a
retirement is ordered. Occasionally isolated cases
occur when a defeated commander commits suicide.
But it is generally because he prefers an easy death
by his own hand to the degradation and tortures
that await the vanquished general.
To prate of the patriotism of the Chinese is as
though one spoke of the "patriotism of India."
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE 283
Still, the latter is a favourite phrase of some of our
ignorant politicians who pose as the champions of
"the down-trodden black brother." They talk of
India being made self-governing and wish to fill its
Civil Service with " enlightened natives." They fail
to see why a Calcutta Babu or a Bombay Parsee,
who boasts a university degree and has passed a
brilliant examination, should not be set to rule over
a Punjaub district or to deal with the unruly Pathans
on the frontier. They do not realise that English-
men would sooner submit to be governed by the
knout of a Russian official than the haughty Sikh or
fierce Pathan would endure the sway of men they
regard as lower than dogs. Our Indian Empire is
composed of a hundred warring nations, all different
in speech, in blood, almost in religions. We, the
dominant race, hold them all in the Pax Britannica,
and keep them from each other's throats.
In like manner few realise that China is not a
united and homogeneous nation. It consists of
many provinces, the inhabitants of which belong
practically to different races and speak in different
tongues. They have little intercourse or sympathy
with each other. Inter- village wars are almost as
frequent as among Pathans. Rebellions are common
occurrences. The Mohammedans hold themselves
aloof and regard the other Chinese with little love.
The written language is the same throughout China;
but the man of Canton cannot speak with the in-
habitant of Pekin or the coolie from Amoy. Occa-
284 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
sionally the curious sight may be seen of two
Chinamen from different provinces holding converse
with each other in pidgin-English, the only medium
of intercourse intelligible to both.
In the outbreak of 1900 the Boxers and the
Pekinese showed themselves almost as hostile to
the Cantonese trading or residing in the north as
they were to Europeans. They considered that
the southern city's long intercourse with the white
man must have rendered its inhabitants favourable
to foreigners ; though, indeed, this is very far from
the truth.
So the Chinaman can have no patriotism. To
any but the most enlightened or the mandarins
from more sordid motives it is a matter of com-
parative indifference who rules the Empire. Pro-
vided that he is allowed to live in peace, that taxes
do not weigh upon him too heavily or his religion
be not interfered with, the peasant cares not who
reigns in Pekin. Justice he does not ask for ; he
is too unused to it. All that he demands is that
he be not too utterly ground down by oppression.
Patient and long-suffering, he revolts only against
the grossest injustice. Not until maddened by
famine or unable to wring a bare living from the
ground does he rise to protest against the unjust
officials, whose exactions have kept him poor. If
he once realised the fairness of European rule,
he would live content under any banner, happy
in being allowed to exist in undisturbed possession
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE 285
of the fruit of his toil. The Chinamen in our
possessions in the East are satisfied and happy
under the mild law of England. Large numbers
of them make their home there, content to live
and die under a foreign government, and ask only
that their corpses may be conveyed back to China
to be interred in its sacred soil.
The average Celestial in his own land feels no
pride or interest in the glory of his country. In
its government he has no voice. Of its history,
its achievements in the past, he is ignorant. He
is content with it because it is the only one he
knows and so must be the best. Of other lands
beyond its confines he has dimly heard. But their
inhabitants are mere barbarians. Those of them
who have intruded themselves into his country are
uncivilised according to his standard. They worship
false gods ; their manners are laughable. All they
do is at variance with his customs, and so must
be wrong. They cannot read his books and know
nothing of the maxims of Confucius. So they
must be illiterate as well as irreligious. Yet these
strange beings are content with themselves, and
scorn his ways ! This proves their ignorance and
their conceit. How can they boast, he asks, of the
superiority of their own countries when they cannot
stay there and, in face of contempt and hostility,
seek to force their way into his ? And as their
coming means interference with customs hallowed
by age and the uprooting of his dearest prejudices,
286 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
he resents it. They strive to introduce innovations
which he can very well do without. What sufficed
for his father and his father's father is good enough
for him. The barbarians come only to disturb.
They wish to defile the graves of his worshipped
ancestors by constructing railways over the soil
in which their bones rest. The shrieks of the
chained devils in their engines disturb the Feng
Skui, the tutelary deities of his fields, and hence
follow drought and famine. And that these
accursed, unneeded iron highways may be con-
structed, he is forced to sell the land which has
been in the possession of his family for generations.
The price for it passes through the hands of the
mandarins and officials, and so but little reaches
him. Has he not heard that to secure the safety
of their bridges little children are kidnapped and
buried under their foundations ? Out upon the
accursed intruders ! China has flourished through
countless ages without their aid, and wants them
not.
And so, in a measure, hatred of foreigners sup-
plies the place of patriotism. It binds all classes
together. The ruling clique dread them for the
reforms they seek to introduce ; for these would
overthrow the frail structure of oligarchical govern-
ment in Pekin and hurl the privileged class from
power. The mandarins tremble at their interference
with the widespread corruption and unjust taxation
on which the officials now batten. The educated
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE 287
hate them for their triumphs over China in the past,
their continual territorial aggression, and their con-
stant menace to the integrity of China. The fanatical
hatred of the white man exhibited by the lower
classes is the result of the blindest ignorance. It is
stirred into mad rage by the exhortations of the
priests, who naturally resent with true clerical bigotry
the introduction of other creeds. The zealous but
too often misdirected efforts of the missionaries, who
tactlessly trample on his dearest beliefs, rouse the
Chinaman to excesses against the strangers who
seem to have intruded themselves upon him only to
insult all that he holds most sacred. Every mis-
fortune, whether it be drought and subsequent
famine or devastating floods, storm or pestilence,
is ascribed to the anger of the gods, irritated at the
presence of the unbelievers. If the crops fail or
small-pox desolates a village, the eyes of the frenzied
peasants turn to the nearest mission house where
live the accursed strangers whose false teachings
have aroused the anger of the immortals. Urged
on by the priests and mandarins, they fall upon it
and slay its inmates. But retribution comes swiftly.
Their own Government are forced by dread of
foreign interference to punish the misguided wretches
who have, as they consider, wreaked only a just re-
venge. The officials are degraded. Heads fall and
houses are razed to the ground. The Imperial
troops quarter themselves on the luckless villagers
who pay dearly in blood and silver for the harm
288 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
they have wrought in their madness. And a sullen
hatred of the white man spreads through all classes
and bears bitter fruit in subsequent graver out-
breaks.
Can we justly blame them ? Would we act
differently in their place ? What if the cases were
reversed ? Suppose England to be a weak and
backward country and China wealthy and power-
ful, with a great navy and a large army. Her
merchants are enterprising and seek to push their
trade into other countries, even against the wish of
the inhabitants. Chinese vessels force their way up
the Thames and sell the cargoes they carry to our
merchants in defiance of the laws we have passed
against the importation of foreign commodities.
Refusing to leave, they are fired upon. Chinese
missionaries make their way into England and
preach ancestor-worship and the tenets of Buddha
in the East End of London. The scum of White-
chapel mob them as the Salvation Army has often
been mobbed. A missionary or two is killed. The
Chinese Government seeks revenge. A strong
fleet is sent to bombard the towns along the South
Coast. Bristol is seized. A demand is made that
the Isle of Wight should be ceded in reparation
for the insult to the Dragon flag. We are forced
to surrender it. A Chinese town grows up on it ;
and the merchants in it insist that their goods
should have the preference over home-made articles.
The Chinese Government demands that tea from
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE 289
the Celestial Kingdom should be admitted duty free
and a tax put upon Indian growths. A criminal or
an anarchist, fleeing from justice, takes refuge on a
small Chinese ship, which is boarded and the fugi-
tive seized. We are only an ignorant people, and
do not understand the Law of Nations. We are
soon instructed. Again China sends a fleet ; a
force is landed and Liverpool captured. To re-
deem it we must pay a large ransom. To obtain
peace we are obliged to grant the Chinese settle-
ments in Liverpool, Bristol, and Southampton.
This inspires other Asiatic Powers Corea, Kams-
chatka, and Siam, which we will imagine to be as
progressive and powerful as our supposititious China
to demand equal privileges and an occasional
slice of territory. Kent, Hampshire, and Norfolk
pass into their hands.
Buddhist and Taoist missionaries now flood the
land. The common people regard them with fear
and hatred. The clergy of the Church of England
preach against them. The ignorant peasantry and
the lowest classes in the towns at last rise and expel
them. A few of them are killed in the process.
The flame spreads. The settlements of the hated
intruders are everywhere assailed. The Asiatic
Embassies in London are attacked by the mob.
Our Government, secretly sympathising with the
popular feeling, are powerless to defend them.
Even if they wished to do so, the soldiers would
refuse to fire on the rioters.
290 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
Then the Allied nations of Eastern Asia band
together ; a great army invades our unhappy
country. A dire revenge is taken for the out-
rages on the missionaries and the attacks on the
Embassies. Middlesex is laid waste with fire and
sword ; neither age nor sex is spared. The brutal
Kamschatkans slay the children and violate the
women. London is captured and looted. The flags
of China, Corea, Kamschatka, and Siam fly from
the roofs of Buckingham Palace ; Marlborough
House shelters the invaders ; Windsor Castle is
occupied by a garrison of the Allied troops. Flying
columns march through the land, pillaging and
burning as they go ; the South of England is
occupied by the enemy. Before the Allied nations
evacuate the devastated land a crushing war
indemnity is laid upon us.
Would we love the yellow strangers then ?
True, we are backward and unprogressive. They
are civilised and enlightened ; and even against our
will our country must be advanced. Still, I fear
that we should be ungrateful enough to resent their
kind efforts to improve us and persist in regarding
them as unwelcome intruders.
All this that I have imagined as befalling
England has happened to China. For similar
causes Canton was bombarded and captured. The
treaty ports were forced to welcome foreign trade.
Hong Kong, Tonkin, Kiau-chau, Port Arthur, all
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE 291
have been torn from China. Fire and sword have
laid waste the province of Chi-li. Death to the
men and disgrace to the women have been un-
sparingly dealt. Can we wonder that the Chinese
do not love the foreigner ?
Our missionaries go forth to earn the crown of
martyrdom. But if they gain it their societies
demand vengeance in blood and coin from the
murderers. The Gospel of Love becomes the
Doctrine of Revenge. "Forgive your enemies!"
O ye saintly missionaries who are so shocked at the
ungodly lives of your sinful fellow-countrymen in
foreign lands, will you not practise what you
preach ? Think of the divine precept of the Master
you profess to serve and pardon the blind rage
of the ignorant heathen !
So much for the China of the present. What of
the future ? She is now fettered by the shackles
of blind ignorance, by the prejudices and retrogres-
sive spirit of the tyrannical Manchu oligarchy who
rule the land. Her strength is sapped by the poison
of corruption. The officials, almost to a man, are
mercenary and self-seeking. Extortion and dis-
honesty are found in every class. Suppose a tax
is laid upon a certain province. The Viceroy orders
the mandarins to collect it from their districts.
They send forth their myrmidons to wring it from
the people, by threats and torture if need be.
Enough must be raised to satisfy the many vultures
THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
through whose claws it will pass before it reaches
Pekin. Twice, three times the amount of the sum
asked for originally must be gathered from the
unfortunate taxpayers, in order that each official
through whose hands it goes on its way to the
Imperial Treasury may have his share of the spoil.
And how is all the money raised in the vast Empire
spent? Not on the needs of the land, certainly.
Few roads or bridges exist. They have mostly
been constructed by charity. The railways and
there are not many were built by foreign capital.
Is there no hope for China ? Must she remain
for ever the spoil of the strong ? Or will she one
day recognise the secret of her weakness, reform
and become a power too formidable to be lightly
offended ? She has an example always before her
eyes. Forty years ago Japan was as ignorant and
prejudiced. Foreigners were hated ; the country was
closed to them. The Mikado was then as power-
less as the Emperor of China is now. The spear
and the sword were the weapons which the soldiers
of Japan opposed to the cannons and rifles of the
Europeans. Foreign fleets bombarded the coast-
towns and wrung concessions from the rulers of the
helpless land. The country was divided between
powerful chieftains of warlike clans.
Yet at one stroke of a magic wand all was
changed. Japan now ranks among the Great
Powers of the world. Her army commands respect
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE 293
and fear ; on war-footing it numbers over half a
million and the Japanese have always been gallant
soldiers. Her navy is as modern and well-equipped
as any afloat. The resources of the country have
been developed. A network of railways covers the
land ; telegraphs and telephones link the important
towns. Her manufacturers compete with Europe in
every market in Asia. Her merchant ships are all
but built in her own dockyards. The fleets of her
steamship companies, such as the Nippon Yusen
Kaisha, would not discredit Liverpool or New
York. Lines of splendid passenger steamers, some
of them over 6,000 tons, run to Europe, America,
and Australia. Smaller lines keep up communica-
tion between Japan and the coasts of Siberia,
Corea, and China. Education is widespread ; uni-
versities and schools abound. Manufactures are
encouraged by a liberal policy. The forest of
factory chimneys in Osaka gives that town the
semblance of Birmingham as one approaches it in
the train. The water-power universal throughout
the islands is utilised freely. Electric light is found
in almost every city in the empire. It is installed
in even the smaller private houses. Automatic
public telephone kiosks dot the streets of the
capital. In provincial towns like Nagoya electric
trams run.
All that Japan has become, China may yet be.
Nay, more. The former is poor, her territory small,
294 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
the greater part of the country encumbered with
unprofitable mountains. The undeveloped wealth
of the latter is enormous. Gold, silver, copper, iron,
and coal are all found. Vast stretches of forest
cover the interior. The soil is incredibly fertile ;
and her people are naturally intelligent. The
Chinese in Hong .Kong and elsewhere, as mer-
chants, as shipowners, as professional men, prove
it. The schools and colleges of our island colony
are filled with the clever, almond-eyed students.
In the Straits Settlements, as in Hong Kong, they
compete with the Europeans in commerce and vie
with them in wealth. All that he is in other
countries the Chinaman can become in his own
under the liberal rule of an enlightened Govern-
ment. The foreigners who trade with the Chinese
say that the latter are far more trustworthy in
business than many a white man. The Chinese
merchant's word is his bond. The Japanese are
not so reliable ; and their artisans are by no means
as industrious as their Celestial neighbours. The
latter, under no compulsion, will toil day and night
to complete some work by the time they have
agreed to finish it.
The Chinese soldier is regarded with universal
contempt. His achievements in the past, when
pitted against European troops, have not exalted
his name. But in 1900 he first showed what splen-
did material he is. With the passive courage of
fatalism, incomprehensible to more highly strung
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE 295
races, the Chinaman will face death without a
struggle. When roused by fanaticism he will fight
blindly to the end ; but in cold blood he has no
ambition for military glory. When led to battle
for a cause of which he knows or cares nothing, he
is ready to save his life by a timely flight with no
feelings of shame or self-reproach. He has never
been taught otherwise. In China moral suasion or
deceit are looked upon as more glorious weapons
than sword or gun.
But if he were well disciplined and led to under-
stand the meaning of esprit de corps> well treated
and well led, he would prove no contemptible
soldier. The Boxers who with knives and spears
charged up to within fifty yards of Seymour's well-
armed men and faced the withering fire of magazine
rifles with frenzied courage ; the Imperial troops
who harassed his brave column day and night ;
the students who fought their guns to the last
when the Tientsin Military College was taken by
the Allies were these cowards ?
What the Chinaman can be made to do with
proper leading may be seen in the behaviour of our
Chinese Regiment, little more than a year raised, all
through the campaign of 1900. When the British,
American, and Russian stormers had captured the
Peiyang Arsenal, on June 27th, an attempt to cut
them off from Tientsin was made by a large body
of Imperial troops and Boxers who tried to get
between them and the river, across which they had
296 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
to pass on their return. Lieutenant-Colonel Bower,
intrepid explorer and gallant soldier, led out his
Chinese Regiment and drove off the enemy. The
conduct of the men under fire was excellent.
It is absurd to suppose that the Chinaman cannot
learn the art of modern warfare. The example of
the Imperial troops who attacked Seymour and
besieged Tientsin amply proves this statement.
They took advantage of cover with cleverness
and knowledge. They used their magazine rifles
with accuracy and effect. Their gunners were ex-
cellently trained. Their shooting was so good that
at first it was falsely supposed that the guns were
served by renegade Europeans. The arms with
which they were equipped were excellent. The
troops were well supplied with quick-firing Krupps
and magazine rifles. That they could use these
weapons was proved by the heavy losses among
the Allied sailors and soldiers in the early part of
the campaign.
The Chinese offered so little resistance to the
Allies on the march to Pekin, the war collapsed so
suddenly on the fall of the capital, that scant justice
has been done to the courage displayed on both
sides during the heavy fighting with Seymour's
column and around Tientsin. The losses among
the Europeans show how desperate it was. Admiral
Seymour's column, out of less than 2,000 men,
lost 295 killed and wounded in sixteen days. The
casualties among the British contingent of 900 blue-
CHINA PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE 297
jackets and marines, amounted to 27 killed and 97
wounded. The Americans out of 120 men lost 4
killed and 25 wounded. The stormers of the Taku
forts also lost heavily.
In the beginning of the attack on the Peiyang
Arsenal by the Russians, they lost over 200 men
and had to send for help to the Americans and the
British.
In the Boxer night attack on Tientsin railway
station in July, the British, French, and Japanese
defending it had 150 casualties.
Out of a total of 5,000 men engaged in the
taking of Tientsin native city on July I3th and
1 4th, the Allies lost nearly 800 men.
The Egyptian fellah was once considered to be
utterly hopeless as a fighting- man. But British
officers nursed him, strengthened his moral fibre,
and then led him into battle. Witness his behaviour
at the Atbara and at Omdurman. The army that
the genius of Lord Kitchener had moulded so skil-
fully proved invincible ; and the fellah did his fair
share of the fighting.
The Chinaman in natural courage, in physique,
and in stamina is far superior to the Egyptian.
Why should he not become a more formidable
fighting-man ? Think what the Celestial Empire
could do if its soldiers were properly armed, trained,
and led ; if the spirit of self-respect were instilled
into them and their natural passive courage fanned
into active bravery ! Think of a warlike army
V 2
298 THE LAND OF THE BOXERS
recruited from a population of 400,000,000 ; and at
its back a reformed China, its resources developed,
its immense wealth properly utilised, its people free
and filled with patriotic pride !
What Japan has accomplished, China, once her
leader and her conqueror, may yet achieve. And
signs of the Great Awakening are at hand !
INDEX
Aberdeen, 181
Admiral Ho, 201, 214, 215
Admiral Seymour at the siege of
Tientsin, 24 ; his advance on
Pekin, 30
Affleck-Scott, Mr., 216
Ah Ting, Naval Dairy Farm, 4
Alarm in Hong Kong, 204
Alarm in Macao, 242
Allied Armies, men and methods
of, 34
Allied Commissioners in Canton,
259
Allied Fleet at Taku, 8
American Army, Continental criti-
cism, 51 ; excellence of the men,
51 ; elastic discipline, 51 ; cour-
age of, 52 ; gallantry at Tientsin,
53 ; comradeship with British
troops, 53 ; contempt for Con-
tinentals, 53 ; discomfiture of
British subaltern, 54
Army, American, 50; Chinese in
the past, 280 ; of the future,
298 ; Dutch, 54 ; French, 42 ;
German, 34 ; Indian, 55 ; Japan-
ese, 47 ; Russian, 44 ; Italian, 54
Arrest, in Japan, 252 ; in Macao,
246 ; of an English colonel in
Macao, 251
Arrow, incident of the, 258
Astor House Hotel, Tientsin, 22
Barracoons in Macao, 255
Barrett, Lieut, Hong Kong Regi-
ment, 199
Bathing parties in Hong Kong,
191
Bayly, Captain, R.N., gallantry at
Tientsin, 45
Belcher's Fort, 176
Belgian Legation in Pekin, 78, 80
Bella Vista, Macao, 240
Bengal Lancers, ist, 59
Bersagliere, 54, 176
Bikanir, H.H. the Maharajah of,
1 80
Black Flags, 204
Boa Vista Hotel, 238
Boer Campaign, lessons of, 34 ;
foreign ignorance respecting, 41
Bogue Forts, 277
Bombay Light Cavalry, 3rd, 60 ;
a sowar's opinion of the Rus-
sians, 164
Bombay Infantry, 22nd, 200, 204,
208, 229
Bombay Pioneers, 28th, 57
Bower, Lieut.-Col., Chinese Regi-
ment, 296
Boxers, night attack on Tientsin
station, 15 ; courage of, 24, 295 ;
losses, 25 ; hostility to Canton-
ese traders, 284
Brigands, 136
Bridge of boats at Tientsin, 19
Bridge, marble, at Summer Palace,
127
Bronze Pagoda, 130
Bronzes in Forbidden City, 90, 93
Browning, Major, 48, 135, 168
Buddha, images of, 109
299
300
INDEX
Buddhist monks, 1 08
Buddhist temple, 107
Burke, Lieut, 22nd Bombay In-
fantry, 208, 229
Cable tramway to the Peak, 181
Camoens, Gardens of, 254
Cangue, punishment of the, 269
Can ton, history of intercourse with
foreigners, 257 ; food supplier to
Hong Kong, 171 ; projected rail-
way to, 171, 196 ; turbulence,
204 ; reformers in, 206 ; land and
riverapproach,278 ; description,
261 ; population, 263 ; its streets,
264 ; its shops, 265 ; prison, 269 ;
its trade, 275 ; its importance to
English commerce, 275 ; an
attack on,277 ; energy of French
consuls in, 276
Cap-sui-Moon Pass, 209
Carvalhaes, Senhor, A.D.C. to
Governor of Macao, 244, 250,
251
Casserly, Lieut., 208
Cathedral, Roman Catholic, in
Pekin, 95 ; its siege, 97 ; at
Canton, 263 ; San Paulo at
Macao, 254
Cavalry, French, 43 ; Japanese, 47 ;
Indian, 59 ; in Hong Kong, 200
Cemetery at Wei-hai-wei, 4;
Macao, 245
Centre of the Universe, 70
Cession of the Kowloon Hinter-
land, 197
Chasseurs d'Afrique, 43, 66
Chifu, 6
China an easy prize, 280 ; her
sufferings in the past from
foreigners, 290 ; of the present-
291 ; of the future, 293
Chinese Army of the past, 280 ;
want of patriotism, 281 ; family
love, 281; Mohammedans, 283 ;
difference in languages, 283 ;
dislike to foreigners, 286 ; extor-
tion of mandarins, 291 ; as
merchants abroad, 294 ; trade
honesty of, 294 ; splendid ma-
terial for soldiers, 296 ; in modern
warfare, 296 ; soldiers in the
South, 227 ; in the North, 228 ;
examinations, 273
Chinese Arsenal at Tientsin, 15 ;
guns made at, 217
Chinese Regiment, guard at Wei-
hai-wei, 7 ; barracks, 6 ; be-
haviour in action, 295, 296
Chinese workmen, 97
Chong Wong Foo, 83
City Hall, Hong Kong, 176
Clocks in Emperor's palace, 91
Club, Hong Kong, 176 ; Tientsin,
20 ; German at Tientsin, 22 ;
English Tennis at Macao, 244 ;
Portuguese Naval Tennis Club,
Macao, 251 ; Military Club,
Macao, 241
Cloisonn^ in Pekin, its manu-
facture, in
Coal Hill, Pekin, 74
Cockroaches as an article of diet,
224
Concessions, European, in Tient-
sin, 17 ; in Canton, 259, 274
Confucius, Temple of, 1 1 1
Consulate, British, at Tientsin, 20;
foreign, at Canton, 274
Coolie Corps, 10
Cossacks at play, 163
CustomSjImperial Chinese, station
on Mah Wan, 209 ; at Samchun,
212 ; officers of, 217
Curzon, Lord, Problems of the
Far East, 69.
INDEX
301
Dagoes, 53
Daibutsu at Kamakura and Hiogo,
109
Death of a thousand cuts, 271
De Boulay, Major, R.A., 121
Deep Bay, 196, 210
Development of Japan, 293
Dobell, Major, D.S.O., Royal Welch
Fusiliers, 85
Docks, Kowloon, 187
Dockyard, Royal Naval, at Wei-
hai-wei, 4 ; at Hong Kong, 178
Dorward, General, his eulogy of
American troops, 52
Dowager-Empress, her pavilion
in the Forbidden City, 92 ; palace
in Pekin, 74 ; Summer Palace,
115; seizure of the Emperor,
115; supposed plan to entrap
the Allies, 206
Dragon Gate in Canton, 274
Drummond, Mr. Ivor, C.I.C., 31
Dutch Expeditionary Force, 54 ;
their envy of the Portuguese
colonies in the past attempt
on Macao, 232
East India Company in Canton,
258
Efficiency of British officers of
the Indian Army, 57 ; of the
Japanese Intelligence Depart-
ment, 49
Egyptian fellah compared to the
Chinaman, 297
Elderton,Commander,D.s.o.,good
work at Taku, 8
Embroidery in Canton, 268
Emperor, his powerlessness, 64 ;
his palace, 89 ; throne room,
89; harem, 90; private apart-
ments, 91 [17
English Concession at Tientsin,
English Legation at Pekin, 78
English officers, friendship with
the Americans, 21 ; linguists in
China, 19; supposed ungracious-
ness of manners, 81 ; plain cam-
paigning dress, 27
Examinations, Chinese system of,
273
Examination Hall in Canton, 273
Examiners, Chinese, at Canton,
274
Executions at Tientsin, 28 ; in
Canton, 271
Extortion of mandarins, 291
Fair, Lieut., R.N., Flag-Lieutenant
to Admiral Seymour, 24
Family love of the Chinese, 281
Fans, 1 06
Fan-tan in Samchun, 225 ; in
Macao, 253
Fares from Hong Kong to Canton
and Macao, 235
Favrier, Archbishop, defends the
Peitan gallantly, 95 ; captures
a Chinese gun, 96 ; introduction
to him, 99 ,
Ferreira Amaral, Governor of
Macao, refuses to pay tribute
to the Chinese, 232
Fighting races of India, 56
Fireworks, Chinese, 219
Flags of Chinese troops in Sam-
chun, 215, 227
Floating population of Canton,
260 ; of Hong Kong, 185
Flora, Governor's summer resi-
dence, 240
Flowery Forest Monastery, 269
Forbidden City, 73, 86
French Army, 42 ; intimacy be-
tween French and German sol-
diers in Tientsin, 40 ; Infanterie
302
INDEX
Coloniale, 42 ; infantry, 43 ;
officers, 43 ; method of main-
taining discipline, 43 ; training
and organisation, 44 ; Zouaves
and Chasseurs d'Afrique, 43
French colonial party, suspected
designs on Macao, 233 ; on
Canton, 275
French post-office in Canton, 276
Frontier Field Force, 208
Frontier of the Kowloon Hinter-
land, 196
Fusiliers, Royal Welch, attack on
a patrol, 23 ; in the Hinterland,
198 ; Hong Kong garrison, 200
Garrison of Hong Kong, 199 ;
of Macao, 241
Gascoigne, Major-General Sir W.,
199
Gaselee, General Sir A., K.C.B.,
204
German Army, 34 ; adherence to
close formations and antiquated
tactics, 35 ; campaigning dress
in China, 39 ; failure of trans-
port, 39 ; soldiers, 40 ; their
friendship with the French, 40;
officers of, 37
German Club at Tientsin, 22
German Imperial Navy, 40; mer-
cantile marine, 40
Gordon Hall, Tientsin, 22, 28
Gough, Sir Hugh, attacks Canton,
258
Government of Macao, 241
Governor of Macao, 244
Grant-Smith, Mr. Ivan, 245, 252
Gray, Captain, 4th P. I., 167
Green Island, 173
Gunboats, allied, at Taku, 9, 10 ;
at Canton, 274 ; British fired
at, 276
Gurkhas,friendship with Japanese,
50, 1 66 ; ingratitude of foreign
troops sheltered by them, 166 ;
officers at Shanhaikwan, 138
Hall, Examination at, Canton, 273
Hall of Five Hundred Genii, 269
Hall of Ten Thousand Ages, 123
Happy Valley, 179
Hardy, Rev. Mr., i
Harem, Emperor's, in Pekin, 90
Ha-ta-man Street, 102 ; Gate, 77
Hatherell, Captain, 22nd Bombay
Infantry, 208, 229
Heaven, Temple of, 67
Heungshan, s.s., 235
Heung Shan, Island of, 233
Hinterland, Kowloon, 194 ; char-
acter and description of, 195 ;
projected railway through, 196 ;
cession, 196 ; advantages to
Hong Kong, 1 98 ; column guard-
ing it, 202 ; want of maps of,
216 ; British police in, 198
Honam, Cantonese suburb of, 260,
263
Hong Kong, importance as a
naval and military base, 167 ;
harbour, 184 ; menace of fam-
ine, 170 ; commercial import-
ance, 171 ; geography, 172 ; de-
scription, 174-184; Club, 177;
climate, 184 ; society in, 190 ;
value of dollar, 235
Hong Kong Regiment, bravery at
Tientsin, 15 ; barracks, 187 ;
disbanded, 187
Hong Kong, Canton to Macao
Steamboat Co., 234
Hong Kong and Singapore Artil-
lery, 199
Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank,
ruins in Pekin, 71 ; building in
Hong Kong, 176
INDEX
303
Hong Kong Volunteers, 188, 199
Horrors, Temple of, 272
Hotel du Nord, Pekin, 71
Hsi-ku Arsenal, 30
Hsin-ho, British landing-place at,
10
Hutchinson, Lieut., R.N.R., 25, 135
Imperial apartments, 91
Imperial Maritime Customs, Chin-
ese, gunboat, 210 ; officers, 217 ;
station at Samchun, 212
Imperial troops, Chinese, 24, 296
Indian Army, 5 5 ; fighting races of,
56 ; Lord Roberts chiefly respon-
sible for its efficiency, 57 ; its
British officers, 57 ; organisation
of a regiment, 58 ; foreign criti-
cisms, 59 ; Russian opinion of,
1 56 ; cavalry, 59 ; infantry, 60 ;
impossibility of another Mutiny>
62 ; loyalty of the sepoy, 63
India as a training -ground for
troops, 6 1
Indian Expeditionary Force, 33, 55
Indian Commissariat at Wei-hai-
wei, 5 ; at Hong Kong, 178
Indian Marine, Royal, officers of,
12
Infanterie Coloniale, 42
Infantry, excellence of Japanese,
48 ; Indian, foreign criticisms
of, 60 ; composition of a native
regiment of, 58
Intelligence Department, Japan-
ese, 49
Italian Expeditionary Force, 54
Ivory carving in Canton, 266
Japan in the past, 292 ; its modern
development, 293 ; arrests in,
252
Japanese Army captures Wei-hai-
wei,3 ; transport, 47 ; campaign-
ing dress, 47 ; cavalry, 47 ; in-
fantry, 48 ; infantry in action,
48 ; organisation, 49 ; Intelli-
gence Department, 49 ; officers
as intelligence agents in Pekin,
49 ; excellent discipline, 49 ;
courage and moderation, 50 ;
friendship for Indian troops, 50,
165
Japanese Fleet, arrival at Shan-
haikwan, 149
Johnstone, Major, R.M.L.I., 30
Junks, marble junk, 127 ; junks
in Hong Kong harbour, 210 ;
war junks, 211
Kell, Lieut., S. Stafford Regt., 144
Kettler, murder of Baron, 83 ;
monument, 83
Kettlewell, Major, commands
Frontier Field Force, 208
Kipling, Rudyard, his description
of Canton, 256
Kowloon, 174, 1 86 ; docks, 187 ;
society, 193
Kowloon, Chinese city of, 186, 188
Kowloon Peninsula, 172, 183, 194
Kowloon Hinterland, see Hinter-
land. [207
Kwang-tung, 194 ; rebellion in,
Labertouche, Captain, 22nd Bom-
bay Infantry, 146
Ladies' Recreation Ground, Hong
Kong, 184
Lama Temple, Great, Pekin, 107
Lampacao, Portuguese settlement
on, 231
Language, difference in Chinese
languages in various provinces,
283; polyglot, 20 ; British officers
as interpreters, 19
304
INDEX
Lantau, Island of, 183
Legation Street, Pekin, 70, 80
Legations, Pekin, 78 ; defence of,
78 ; visit to English Legation,
79 ; guard, 79 ; new defensive
wall, 107
Li Hung Chang, 128, 204
Ling-chi, torture of, 271
Liscum, Colonel, U.S. Army, his
death, 53
Liu-kung-tao, Island of, 3
Losses of Allies at Tientsin, 296,
297
Lo-u, 216
Macao, 231 ; its past history, 231;
its present decay, 232 ; danger
to Hong Kong, 233; passage
to, 236 ; description, 237-40 ;
public gardens, 240 ; govern-
ment, 241 ; society, 243 ; affair
with police, 245 ; gambling
houses, 253 ; sights, 254
Madrassis, decay of, 56
Madras Sappers and Miners, 56
Madras Light Infantry, 3rd, 200,
204, 208
Mandarins at Samchun, 222 ;
corruption of Chinese, 228 ;
extortion, 291
Manchuria, Russian soldiers in,
45
Map of Kowloon Hinterland, 216
Marble junk, 127
Marble bridge at Summer Palace,
127
Marco Polo, 269
Melville, Lieut., 22nd Bombay
Infantry, 208
Mikado, 292
Military Club, Macao, 241
Military College, Tientsin, 295
Moji, 253
Monte Carlo of the East, 232
Moon, Temple of, 70
Mosquitoes, 141
Mount Austen Hotel, 182
Mounted Infantry in Tientsin, 26 ;
usefulness in Hong Kong, 200
Mud of Pekin, 82
Mutiny in Macao, 242
Mutiny, impossibility of another
Indian, 62
Nagoya, electric cars in, 293
Naval Dockyard at Wei-hai-wei,
4 ; at Hong Kong, 178
Navy, German, 40
Newchwang, Russian church
parade in, 45 ; railway to, 133
Nippon Yusen Kaisha, 293
Ogilvie, Lieut., R.A., 208
Old Kowloon City, 186, 188
Osaka, 293
Outrages on foreigners in China,
287
Pagoda, bronze, 130
Patriotism, want of, 281 ; of India,
282
Peak in Hong Kong, 175, 181, 183
Pearl River, 236, 261
Peddlers in Pekin, 102 ; in Can-
ton, 261
Peiho River, 9, 19
Peitan,Roman Catholic Cathedral,
95 5 sie & e > 97
Peiyang Arsenal, taking of, 219,
295 ; Russian losses at, 297
Pekin, journey to, 65 ; station, 66 ;
description, 71 ; walls of, 72 ;
Tartar and Chinese cities, 72 ;
Tartar city, 72 ; Legations, 78 ;
mud, 82 ; Allied occupation of,
83 ; Forbidden City, 87
INDEX
305
Pigmy, H.M.S., takes Shanhai-
kwan forts, 1-34
Pioneers, 28th Bombay, 57
Police of Macao, 241 ; affair with,
246
Police of new territory, British,
213
Polo ground in Victoria, 180
Polo in Hong Kong, 180
Ponies, troublesome Chinese, 116
Population of Canton, 263
Port Arthur, reinforcements from,
46 ; retention of, 1 56
Portuguese colony of Macao, 231 ;
tribute to China, 232 ; police,
246 ; Naval Tennis Club, 251
Powell, Sir Francis, R.N., 178
Pottery, 106
Praia Grande, 238
Punjaub Infantry, 4th, in action
with Japanese troops, 48; guard-
ing the railway, 135 ; under
Lieut Stirling, D.S.O., 168
Purple or Forbidden City, 73
Puzzle-balls, Chinese, 267
Quarto del Sargento, 248
Queen's House, Wei-hai-wei, 5
Queen's Road, Hong Kong, 248
Railways in North China, 133 ;
from Tong-ku to Pekin, 13, 65 ;
to Shanhaikwan, 135
Railway, projected, to Canton, 196
Railway Siding incident, 32
Railway Staff Officers, British, 14
Reformers in Southern China, 206
Ringing Rocks at Macao, 255
Roberts, Lord, 57
Royal Indian Marine Officers, 12
Royal Welch Fusiliers, attack on
patrol, 23 ; in the Hinterland,
198 ; Hong Kong garrison, 200
Rudkin, Lieut, 2oth Bombay In-
fantry, his tact and firmness,
33
Rue du General Voyron, Pekin,
97
Rundell, Lieut, R.E., 208
Russian Army, 44 ; troops, 44 ;
endurance of soldiers, 45 ; piety,
45 ; courage, 46 ; comradeship
between officers and men, 47
Russian Railway Staff Officer at
Shanhaikwan, 144
Russians seize railways in North
China, 133 ; seize rolling stock
at Shanhaikwan, 146 ; dinner
party at Shanhaikwan on the
cliffs, 149 ; a dinner with Rus-
sian officers, 1 54 ; causes of
dislike to England, 155
Samchun, 207, 212, 214 ; visit to,
221 ; river, 217
Sampans in Hong Kong, 185
San Paulo, ruined cathedral of,
254
Satow, Sir Ernest, 128
Saunders, Lieut, R.A., 208
Sepoys, opinion of foreign con-
tingents, 6 1, 164 ; loyalty of,
62
Seymour, Admiral Sir Edward,
courage in Tientsin, 24 ; his
advance on Pekin, 30
Shameen, 259, 274
Sharpe, Captain, 3rd Madras
Light Infantry, 208
Siberian Army, 45
Siege of Tientsin, 30
Siege of the Peitan, 97
Siege train, disappointment of
British, 26
Sikhs, 6 1
Silks in Pekin, 105
306
INDEX
Shanhaikwan, 138 ; strategic im-
portance of, 134; railway jour-
ney to, 135; town of, 146;
Great Wall of China at, 148 ;
arrival of Japanese Fleet at,
149; forts at, 151; Japanese
and Indians at, 167
Society in Hong Kong, 190, 192 ;
Kowloon, 193 ; in Macao, 243
Spirit Path, 88
Stanley, abandoned town of, 181
Stirling, Lieut, D.S.O., 4th Pun-
jaub Infantry, 168
Straubenzee, General Sir Charles,
258
Streets of Canton, 263
Streets of Pekin, 75
Summer Palace, 115
Sun Yat Sen, 207
Tai-mo-shan, 183
Tai-u-shan, 183
Taku, 8, 9 ; forts, 9
Taku Road, 23
Tartar City, 72
Temple of Heaven, 67 ; Sun, 69 ;
Moon, 70 ; in Forbidden City,
90, 93 ; Lama, 107 ; Confucius,
in; Five Hundred Genii, 269 ;
of Horrors, 272
Terrible, H. M.S., at Shanhaikwan,
155 ; gunners, 25
Tientsin station, 1 5 ; concessions,
17; Chinese City, 17; Club, 20;
siege of, 30
Tommy Atkins in Tientsin, 27
Tong-ku, 10, ii ; Allies at, II ;
station, 134
Tong-shan, 137
Tortures, Chinese, 271
Traders, Chinese as, 294
Transport officers, 8
Transport of Germans defective,
39 ; of Japanese, 47 ; Indian,
55
Treaty Ports, 258
Triad Society, 207, 216
Tung Chow, 117
Valley, Happy, 179
Vasilievski, General, wounded at
Pekin, 118
Victoria, Hong Kong, 173
Victoria Road, Tientsin, 22
Vladivostock, 156
Vodki, 154
Von Waldersee, Count, and our
Royal Horse Artillery, 68
Wall, Great, of China, 147
Walls of Canton, 261
Walls of Pekin, 72, 76
Walls of Wei-hai-wei, 5
Want of patriotism among the
Chinese, 281
Water-gate of Tartar City, 78;
of Canton, 262
Wei-hai-wei by night, 2 ; by day,
3 ; Chinese village of, 6 ; taken
by Japanese, 3
Welch Fusiliers, Royal, 79, 85,
198, 200
West River, 276
Whittall, Major, Hyderabad Con-
tingent, 1 8
Williams, Major, Base Commis-
sariat Officer, 178
Woolley, Captain, I.M.S., 208, 220
Workmen, Chinese, 97
Yamen, Wei-hai-wei, 4 ; Canton,
262; Samchun, 221; British
Consuls in Canton, 259
INDEX
307
Yangtsun, 66
Yaumati, 186, 209
Yuan Shi Kai, army of, 229
Zaire, Portuguese gunboat, 237 ;
lands sailors, 242
Zouaves, 43
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INDEX OF AUTHORS AND EDITORS.
Page Page
Page
Page
Abbott (Evelyn) 3,19,22 Balfour (A. J.) -13,21
Burke (U.R.) - - 3 Crozier (J. B.) -
9, 17
(J. H. M.) - 3 Ball (John) - - 11
(T. K.) - -17,18 Banks (M. M.)- - 24
Burne-Jones (Sir E.) 36 Cutts (Rev. E. L.) -
Burns (C. L.) - - 36 i Dabney (J. P.) -
6
23
(E. A.) - 17 Baring-Gould(Rev.S.)2i,38
Burrows (Montagu) 6 ; Dale (L.) -
4
Acland (A. H. D.) - 3 Barnett (S. A.andH.) 20 Butler (E. A.) - - 30 i Dallinger (F. W.) -
5
Acton (Eliza) - - 36 Baynes (T. S.) - - 38 i Campbell (Rev. Lewis) 21 ! Dauglish (M. G.) -
9
Adelborg (O.) - - 32 Beaconsfield (Earl of) 25 Casserly (G.) - - 3
Davenport (A.)
25
jEschylus - - 22 Beaufort (Duke 01)12,13, 14 Chesney (Sir G.) - 3
Davidson (A. M. C.)
22
Albemarle (Earl of) - 13 ; Becker (W. A.) - 22 Childe-Pemberton(W.S.) 9
(W. L.) - 17,20,21
Alcock (C. W.) - 15 Beesly (A. H.) - - 9
Chisholm (G. C ) - 31
Davies (J. F.) -
22
Allen (Grant) - - so Bell (Mrs. Hugh) - 33
Cholmondeley-Pennell
Dent (C. T.) -
14
Allgood (G.) - - 3 Bent (J. Theodore) - n (H.) - - - 13
De Salis (Mrs.)
36
Alverstone (Lord) - 15 Besant (Sir Walter)- 3
Christie (R. C.) - 38
De Tocqueville (A.) -
4
Angwin (M. C.) - 36 Bickerdyke(J.) -14.15
Churchill (Winston S.) 4,25
Devas (C. S.) -
19,20
Anstey (F.) - - 25 , Bird (G.) - - - 23
Cicero - - - 22
Dewey(D. R.)-
20
Aristophanes - - 22 Blackburne (J. H.) - 15
Aristotle - - - 17 Bland (Mrs. Hubert) 24
Clarke (Rev. R. F.) - 19
Climenson (E. J.) - 10
Dickinson (W. H.) -
Dougall (L.) -
38
35
Arnold (Sir Edwin)- 11,23 Blount (Sir E.t - 9
Clodd (Edward) - 21,30
Dowden (E.) -
40
(Dr. T.) - - 3 ; Boase (Rev. C. W.) - 6
Clutterbuck (W. J.)- 12
Doyle (Sir A. Conan)
25
Ashbourne (Lord) - 3 Boedder (Rev. B.) - 19
Cochrane (A.) 23
Du Bois (W. E. B.)-
5
Ashby (H.) - - 36 Bonnell (H. H.) - 38
Cockerell (C. R.) - n
Dunbar (Mary F.) -
25
Ashley (W. J.) - - 3,20 Booth (A. J.) - - 38
Atkinson (J. J.) - 21 Bottome (P.) 25
Colenso(R. J.) - 36
Conington (John) - 23
Dyson (E.)
Ellis (J. H.) -
26
15
Avebury (Lord) - 21 Bowen (W. E.) - 9
Conybeare(Rev.W.J.)
(R. L.) - -
17
Ayre (Rev. J.) - - 31 Brassey (Lady) - n
& Howson (Dean) 33
Erasmus -
g
Bacon - - -9,17 Bright (Rev. J. F.) - 3
Coolidge (W. A. B.) 11
Evans (Sir John) -
38
Bagehot (W.) - 9, 20, 38 Broadfoot (Major W.) 13
Corbett (Julian S.) - 4
Falkiner (C. L.)
4
Bagwell (R.) - - 3 Brooks (H. J.) - - 17
Coutts (W.) - - 22
Farrar (Dean) -
2O, 26
Bailey (H. C.) - - 25 Brough (J.) - - 17
Cox (Harding) - 13
Fitzmaurice (Lord E.) 4
Baillie (A. F.) - - 3 Brown (A. F.) - - 32
Crake (Rev. A. D.) - 32
Folkard (H. C.)
15
Bain (Alexander) - 17 Bruce (R. I.) - - 3
Crawford (J. H.) - 25
Ford (H.) -
16
Baker (J. H.) - - 38 Buckland (Jas.) - 32
(SirS. W.) -11,12 Buckle (H. T.) - - 3
Creed (S.) - - 25 Fountain (P
Creiffhton (Bishop) - 4, 6, 9 Fowler (Edith H.) -
it
26
Baldwin (C. S.) - 17 Bull (T.) - - ... . -jjl
Cross (A. L.) 5 Francis (Francis) -
16
INDEX OF AUTHORS AND EDITORS continued.
Page
Page
Page
Page
Francis (M. E.) - 26
erome ( Jerome K.) - 27
Nansen (F.) - - 12
Stanley (Bishop) - 31
Freeman (Edward A.) 6
ohnson (J. & J. H.) 39
Nash (V.) 7
Stebbing (W.) - - 28
Fremantle (T. F.) - 16
[ ones (H. Bence) - 31
Nesbit (E.) - - 24
Steel (A. G.) - - 13
Frost (G.)- - - 38
[ oyce (P. W.) - 6, 27, 39
Nettleship (R. L.) - 17
Stephen (Leslie) - 12
Froude (James A.) 4,9,11,26
ustinian - - - 18
Newman (Cardinal) - 28
Stephens (H. Morse) 8
Fuller (F. W.) - - 5
Kant (I.) - - 18
Nichols (F. M.) - 9
Sternberg (Count
Furneaux (W.) - 30
Gardiner (Samuel R.) 5
Kaye (Sir I. W.) - 6
Keary (C. F.) 23
Oakesmith (J.) - - 22
Ogilvie (R.) - - 22
Adalbert) - - 8
Stevens (R. W.) - 40
Gathorne-Hardy (Hon.
Kelly (E.)- - - 18
Oldfield (Hon. Mrs.) 9
Stevenson (R. L.) 25,28,33
A. E.) - - 15, 16
Kielmansegge (F.) - 9
Osbourne (L.) - - 28
Storr (F.) - - - 17
Geikie (Rev. Cunning-
Killick (Rev. A. H.) - 18
Packard (A. S.) - 21
Stuart- Wortley (A. J.) 14, 15
ham) 38
Kitchin (Dr. G. W.) 6
Paget (Sir J.) - - 10
Stubbs (J. W.) - - 8
Gibson (C. H.)- - 17
Knight (E. F.) - - n, 14
Park(W.) - - 16
(W.)- - - 8
Gilkes (A. H.) - - 38
Kostlin (J.) - - 10
Parker (B.) - - 40
Suffolk & Berkshire
Gleig (Rev. G. R.) - 10
Kristeller (P.) - - 37
Payne-Gallwey (Sir R.) 14,16
(Earl ot) - - 14
Graham (A.) - - 5
Ladd(G. T.) - - 18
Pears (E.) - - 7
Sullivan (Sir E.) - 14
(P. A.) - - 15, 16
Lang (Andrew) 6 ,13, 14, 16,
Pearse (H. H. S.) - 6
Sully (James) - - 19
(G. F.) - - ao
21,22, 23,27, 32,39
Peek (Hedley) - - 14
Sutherland (A. and G.) 8
Granby (Marquess of) 15
Lapsley (G. T.) - 5
Pemberton (W. S.
(Alex.) - - 19, 40
Grant (Sir A.) - - 17
Laurie (S. S.) - 6
Childe-) - - 9
Suttner (B. von) - 29
Graves (R. P.) - - 9
Lawrence (F. W.) - 20
Penrose (H. H.) - 33
Swinburne (A. J.) - 19
(A. F.) - - 23
Lear (H. L. Sidney) - 36
Phillipps-Wolley(C.) 12,28
Symes (J. E.) - - 20
Green (T. Hill) - 17, 18
Lecky (W. E. H.) 6, 18, 23
Pierce (A. H.) - - 19
Tait(J.) --- 7
Greene (E. B.)- - 5
Lees (J. A.) - - 12
Pole(W.)- - - 17
Tallentyre (S. G.) - 10
Greville (C. C. F.) - 5
Leighton (J_. A.) - 21
Pollock (W. H.) - 13, 40
Tappan (E. M.) - 33
Grose (T. H.) - - 18
Leslie (T. E. Cliffe) - 20
Poole ( W. H . and Mrs.) 36
Taylor (Col. Meadows) 8
Gross (C.) - - 5
Lieven (Princess) - 6
Poore (G. V.) - - 40
Theophrastus - - 23
Grove (Lady) - - n
Lillie (A.) - - - 16
Portman (L.) - - 28
Thomas (J. W.) - 19
(Mrs. Lilly) - 13
Lindley (j.) - - 31
Powell (E.) - - 7
Thomson (H. C.) - 8
Gurnhill(J.) - - 18
Locock (C. D.) - 16
Powys (Mrs. P. L.) - 10
Thornhill (W. ].) - 23
Gwilt (J.) - - - 31
Lodge (H. C.) - - 6
Praeger (S. Rosamond) 33
Thornton (T. H.) - 10
Haggard (H. Rider)
Loftie (Rev. W. J.) - 6
Pritchett (R. T.) - 14
Thuillier (H. F.) - 40
ii, 26, 27, 38
Longman (C. J.) - 12, 16
Proctor (R. A.) 16, 30, 35
Todd(A.)- - - 8
Halliwell-Phillipps(j.) 10
(F. W.) - - 16
Raine (Rev. James) - 6
Tout (T. F.) - - 7
Hamilton (Col. H. B.) 5
(G. H.) - - 13, 15
Ramal (W.) - - 24
Toynbee (A.) - - 20
Hamlin (A. D. F.) - 36
(Mrs. C. J.) - 37
Randolph (C. F.) - 7
Trevelyan (Sir G. O.)
Harding (S. B.) - 5
Lowell (A. L.) - - 6
Rankin (R.) - 8, 25
6. 7, 8, 9, 10
Hardwick (A. A.) - n
Lucian - - - 22
Ransome (Cyril) - 3, 8
(G. M.) - - 7, 8
Harmsworth (A. C.) 13, 14
Lutoslawski (W.) - 18
Reid (S. J.) - - 9
(R. C.) - - 25
Harte (Bret) - - 27
Harting(J. E.) - - 15
Lyall (Edna) - - 27, 32
Lynch (G.) - - 6
Rhoades (J.) - - 23
Rice (S. P.) - - 12
Trollope (Anthonvl- 29
Turner (H. G.) ^- 40
Hartwig (G.) - - 30
(H. F. B.)- - 12
Rich (A.) - - - 23
Tyndall (J.) - - 9, 12
Hassall(A.) - - 8
Lytton (Earl of) - 24
Richmond (Ennis) - 19
Tyrrell (R. Y.) - - 22, 23
Haweis (H. R.) - 9, 36
Macaulay (Lord) 6, 7, 10, 24
Rickaby (Rev. John) 19
Unwin (R.) 40
Head (Mrs.) - - 37
Macdonald (Dr. G.) - 24
(Rev. Joseph) - 19
Upton(F.K.and Bertha) 33
Heath (D. D.) - - 17
Macfarren (Sir G. A.) 37
Riley (J. W.) - - 24
Van Dyke (J. C.) - 37
Heathcote (J. M.) - 14
Mackail (J. W.) - 10, 23
Roberts (E. P.) - 33
Vanderpoel (E. N.) - 37
(C. G.) - - 14
Mackenzie (C. G.) - 16
Robertson (W. G.) - 37
Virgil - - - 23
(N.) - - - ii
Mackinnon (J.) - 7
Roget (Peter M.) - 20, 31
Wagner (R.) - - 25
Helmholtz (Hermann
Macleod (H. D.) - 20
Romanes (G. J.) 10, 19,21,24
Wakeman (H. O.) - 8
von) - - - 30
Macpherson(Rev.H.A.) 15
(Mrs. G. J.) - 10
Walford (L. B.) - 29
Henderson (Lieut-
Madden (D. H.) - 16
Ronalds (A.) - - 17
.Wallas (Graham) - 10
Col. G. F. R.) - 9
Magniisson (E.) - 28
Roosevelt (T.) - - 6
(Mrs. Graham)- 33
Henry (W.) - - 14
Maher (Rev. M.) - 19
Ross (Martin) - - 2
Walpole (Sir Spencer) 8, 10
Henty (G. A.) - - 32
Mallet (B.) - - 7
Rossetti (Maria Fran-
(Horace) - - 10
Higgins (Mrs. N.) - 9
Malleson (Col. G.B.) 6
cesca) - - - 40
Walrond (Col. H.) - 12
Hill (Mabel) - - 5
Marbot (Baron de) - 10
Rotheram (M. A.) - 36
Walsingham (Lord)- 14
(S. C.) - - 5
Marchment (A. W.) 27
Rowe (R. P. P.) - 14
Ward ( Mrs. W.) - 29
Hillier (G. Lacy) - 13
Marshman (J. C.) - 9
Russell (Lady)- - 10
Warner (P. F.) - 17
Hime (H. W. L.) - 22
Maryon (M.) - - 39
Sandars (T. C.) - 18
Warwick (Countess of) 40
Hodgson (Shadworth) 18
Mason (A. E. W.) - 27
Sanders (E. K.) 9
Watson (A. E. T.) 12, 13, 14
Hoenig(F.) - - 38
Maskelyne(J.N.) - 16
Savage- Armstrong(G.F.)25
Weathers (J.) - - 40
Hogan (J. F.) - - 9
Matthews (B.) - 39
Seebohm (F.) - - 8, 10
Webb (Mr. and Mrs.
Holmes (R. R.) - 10
Maunder (S.) 31
Selous (F. C.) - - 12, 17
Sidney) - - 20
Homer 22
Hope (Anthony) - 27
Max Miiller (F.)
10, 18, 20, 21, 22, 27, 39
Senior (W.) - - 13, 15
Seton-Karr(SirH.)- 8
(Judge T.) - 40
(T. E.) - - 19
Horace 22
May (Sir T. Erskine) 7
Sewell (Elizabeth M.) 28
Weber (A.) - - 19
Illusion (D. F.) - 5
Meade (L. T.) - - 32
Shadwell (A.) - - 40
Weir (Capt. R.) - 14
Howard (Lady Mabel) 27
Melville (G.J.Whyte) 27
Shakespeare - - 25
Wellington (Duchess of) 37
Howitt (W.) - - ii
Merivale (Dean) - 7
Shaw (W. A.) - - 8
Wemyss(M. C. E.)- 33
Hudson (W. H.) - 30
Mernman 'H. S.) - 27
Shearman (M.) - 12, 13 Weyman (Stanley) - 29
Huish (M. B.) - - 37
Mill (John Stuart) - 18, 20
Sheehan (P. A.) - 28
Whately(Archbishop) 17,19
Hullah (J.) - - 37
Millais (I. G.) - - 16, 30
Sheppard (E.) - - 8
Whitelaw (R.) - - 23
Hume (David) - - 18
Milner (G.) 40
Sinclair (A.) 14
WhittalKSirJ. W.)- 40
(M. A. S.) - 3
Monck (W. H. S.) - 19
Skrine (F. H.) - - 9
Wilkins(G.) - - 23
Hunt (Rev. W.) - 6
Montague (F. C.) - 7
Smith (C. Fell) - 10 (W. H.) - - 10
Hunter (Sir W.) - 6 j Moore (T.) - - 31
(R. Bosworth) - 8 Willard (A. R.) - 37
Hutchinson (Horace G.) I (Rev. Edward) - 17
(T. C.) - - 5 Willich (C. M.) - 31
13, 16, 27, 38
Moran (T. F.) - - 7
(W. P. Haskett) 12 Wood (Rev. J. G.) - 31
Ingelow (Jean) - 23
Morgan (C. Lloyd) - 21
Somerville (E.) - 28 Wood-Martin (W. G.) 33
Ingram (T. D.) 6
Morris (W.) - 22, 23, 24,
Sophocles - - 23 Wyatt (A. J.) - - 24
James (W.) - - 18, 21
7i 28, 37, 40
Soulsby(LucyH.) - 40 Wylie (J. H.) - - 8
Jameson (Mrs. Anna) 37
Mulhall (M. G.) - 20
Southey (R.) - - 40 Yeats (S. Levett) - 29
Jefferies (Richard) - 38
Murray (Hilda) - 33
Spedding (J.) - - 9, 17 Yoxall (J. H.) 29
Jekyll (Gertrude) - 38
Myers (F. W. H.) - 19
Spender (A. E.) - 12 Zeller (E.) - - 19
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