I agree up to a point. To do the pump, do remove all that is in the way. I
don't agree that this includes the pentosin reservoir though.
You could go "all the way" but you're patience is already somewhat thin and
I might leave the rest to another visit, to give you time to reclaim your
joy of ownership by driving the damn thing.
Ed
> -----Original Message-----
> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com> [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of 32VQUATTRO
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 9:26 AM
> To: Dave Saad; V8 Audi Fans
> Subject: Re: [V8] Stick a fork in the V8 I am done ;-)
>>> What Dave said. BTDT!! finally broke down and replaced with a
> ZF unit in
> April. I would only attept replacing seals in the future if I were
> replacing them all and had the proper tools to do so.
> Allan
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Saad" <dsaad at icehouse.net>
> To: "V8 Audi Fans" <v8 at audifans.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 11:08 AM
> Subject: Re: [V8] Stick a fork in the V8 I am done ;-)
>>> > If I was me (and I am), I would remove the pump from the
> car, and fix
> > or have it fixed right the first time. It is not that hard
> to get the
> > pump off the motor, and in the long run you save time. As
> I recall,
> > you need to remove anything that is in your way - like the
> oil tank,
> > heat shield, air snorkel, or whatever. I always find it is
> easier to
> > get things out of my way than to fight it. While you are
> in this far,
> > if you were me, you would seriously consider removing all the power
> > steering hoses and sending them to Spokane Hose for rebuild. For me
> > this meant removing the ignition coils, and whatever else
> was in the
> > way. Now with such easy access to the steering rack, I would also
> > remove it and replace the boot that is almost certainly torn and
> > allowing dirt to accumulate and causing the shafts/seals to fail.
> > Once done with this rather painful procedure, I would install an
> > inline oil filter in the rack return line and then keep my fingers
> > crossed that when they finally tow grandpas old antique
> Audi with the
> > funny gasoline burning motor in it to the boneyard, it will not be
> > leaking any hydraulic oil. Refill the system with Chevron RYKON 32
> > oil, and flush the system a few times in the first year
> after you do
> > all of this work - you will have 5 gallons of oil to use up anyway.
> > Eventually, the oil will run clear. I did not take my own
> advice and
> > ended up doing this in about three steps. We know for certain that
> > the hoses and pump are going to start leaking, and the rack boot is
> > going to tear. May as well just face it and do the repair once.
> > Depending on what you do to the pump, this whole thing should cost
> > less than $300 (and a lot of time).
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> > On Aug 4, 2008, at 10:46 PM, Ed Kellock wrote:
> >
> >> Yes, to remove the pump, all these things help a lot. I
> also removed
> >> the heat shield that bolts to the frame rail.
> >>
> >> When I removed that one x-cap w/o removing the pump, I
> just had the
> >> belly pan off and jacked up the car a bit, threw a jack stand
> >> underneath and worked from the bottom w/ a mirror and a
> light to help
> >> me see what I was
> >> doing. I used a 1/2-inch drive ratchet with the drag link socket
> >> and there
> >> was just enough room to fit it inside the frame rail and get the
> >> cap loose
> >> and tightened at the end of the job.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On
> >>> Behalf Of Kneale Brownson
> >>> Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:25 PM
> >>> To: Greg Furstenwerth; V8 List
> >>> Subject: Re: [V8] Stick a fork in the V8 I am done ;-)
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> If you take out the air plumbing and remove the electric
> fan, then
> >>> pull off the pulley, you can wiggle out the pump.
> >>>
> >>> I've done it that way several times. Others report
> taking off the
> >>> driver side timing belt cover helps considerably. That'll
> be what I
> >>> do next time, which may be in a week or so.
> >>>
> >>> Greg Furstenwerth <slicerdicer at mac.com> wrote:
> >>> I guess my main question is how do you get access to the pump?
> >>>
> >>> Ed Kellock wrote:
> >>>> There are several x-caps on the pump. If you're lucky and
> >>> it's not one
> >>>> that's covered (that's about all BUT one) then you'll
> need a sorta
> >>>> special tool that is kind of like a very large common
> >>> screwdriver that
> >>>> is a socket. I believe they're called impact drivers.
> The official
> >>>> torque on the caps is not great, but if it hasn't been off
> >>> in a long
> >>>> while or if it's been off and overtorqued, it may take some
> >>> patience.
> >>>> I pulled the pump to replace the o-ring on mine the
> first time and
> >>>> paid the price in that I found the mounting bolts for the pump,
> >>>> actually the holes they bolt into, were stripped. I got it back
> >>>> together okay and then had to replace the o-ring again (my
> >>> fault). I
> >>>> did not want to disturb the mounting bolts again so I did
> >>> it while on
> >>>> the car.
> >>>>
> >>>> Ed
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
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