Paul and Lucy Spadoni periodically live in Tuscany to explore Paul’s Italian roots, practice their Italian and enjoy “la dolce vita.”
All work is copyrighted and may not be reprinted without written permission from the author, who can be contacted at www.paulspadoni.com

Monday, May 28, 2018

Lucca's fascinating past is reenacted by various colorful, spectacular events

Lucca periodically relives its storied past with colorful
celebrations of historical eras and events, most of them relative to the Middle
Ages. These events make the city’s history come alive and provide great
entertainment and amusement for citizens and tourists.

The most important celebration takes place September 13, the
Luminara di Santa Croce. This famous festival is a devotional procession in
which the Volto Santo (Holy Face), a wooden crucifix, is carried in a colourful
yet solemn parade that starts from the Church of San Frediano and ends at the
Cathedral of San Martino. The route follows the historical “miraculous path” of
the Volto Santo, a relic precious to Lucca.

The celebration starts at 8 p.m., with praying people
marching in medieval costumes along with parish priests and warriers with
crossbows, bow and arrows and other traditional weapons. All participants
carry a candle or lamp and create a parade of lights, while all the buildings
along the procession route are illuminated or decorated with tiny glasses
containing lit candles. Also included in the long parade are instrumental
bands and choirs, the latter singing variations of a hymn called Lodi to the
SS. Cross, Praise to the Most Holy Cross.

Lucca hosts other parades in costumes and lights besides
Santa Croce. The Luminaria di San Paolino, named to honor the first bishop of
Lucca, is held July 11. This Luminara consists of many events, including a
parade lighted by torches and candles, historical costumes worn by members of
the “Gruppo di San Paolino,” the firing of cannons, and religious ceremonies to
honor the patron saint of Lucca.

The Association Contrade San Paolino (ACSP) with its
crossbows, tambourines and actors was founded in Lucca in 1991. The members’ deep
passion for the history of Lucca led them to recall and relive the origins
and history of the independent city town during the medieval period. The
balestrieri (crossbowmen) march in parades during the whole week leading up to the
festival.

Lucca has a long tradition with the balestrieri. Written
testimony about the crossbow appeared as early as 1169, when the Republic of
Lucca asked for help from the friendly Republic of Genoa, and the latter sent a
company of balestrieri to defend Lucca from incessant attacks from the Republic
of Pisa.

A selected group of crossbowmen was then created, and the
balestrieri became a highly honoured profession, entrusted with the protection
of the city. The “capitano del popolo,” Castruccio Castracani, who led the town
between 1316 and his death 1328, established prizes to encourage the use of the
crossbow. Regular competitions were organized to train the balestrieri during
periods of peace.

The next appointment with the Association Contrade di San
Paolino is coming very soon: The weekend of June 2-3 the public can
witness the dramatic work of six different reenactment associations in Piazzale
Verdi. Medieval villages will display equipment such as armor, helmets, swords
and crossbows. In addition, live performances will be conducted demonstrating
the particular skills of fire manipulation, falconry, drum parades, flag
throwing, stilt-walking, juggling, dancing and medieval combat. An important and thrilling crossbow
competition will take place on Sunday. If you want to enjoy this incredible
experience, you can also read more about it at the website for the Contrade di
San Paolino: www.consanpaolino.org.

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About Me

First off, before you hassle me about our title, Lucy thought of it. Yes, I know some people may think broad is derogatory, but the etymology is uncertain and she doesn’t find it offensive, and it made me laugh. We have been married since 1974 and are empty-nesters now, which allows me to bring my submerged Italophilia into the open. We first came to live in Italy from February-April in 2011 and have returned during the same months every year. From 2011-2015, we lived in San Salvatore, at the foot of the hilltop city Montecarlo, where my paternal grandparents were born, raised and, in 1908, married. In late 2015, we bought a home in Montecarlo. We come for a variety of purposes: We want to re-establish contact with distant cousins in both Nonno’s and Nonna’s families, we want to learn the language and see what it is like to live as Italians in modern Italy, we like to travel and experience different cultures. Even if we aren’t successful at achieving these purposes, we love Italy and enjoy every moment here, so there is no chance we will be disappointed. I am grateful to God for giving me a wife who is beautiful, clever, adaptable and willing to jump into my dreams wholeheartedly.