Designer Faces: Marc by Marc Jacobs
Spring 2014

Gallery7 Slides

The latest Marc by Marc collection boasted plenty of working-girl essentials, but have no fear: There wasn't a single power suit in the lineup (David Bowie was an inspiration). The hair and makeup—cool, lanky waves and bold blue shadow—were equally as un-corporate.

Makeup artist Dick Page paired Jacobs's laid-back suits and shiny fabrics with a simple block of blue on the eyes. "There were a couple of reference pictures we looked at—a picture of David Bowie, one of Donna Jordan. I liked the immediacy of [the blue], the simplicity," he said.

Instead of prepping models' skin first, Page went straight to the eyes: He applied a shimmery pale blue cream shade (Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Ice) to lids, then swept a bold Yves Klein blue powder (from the Shiseido Limited Edition Eye Color Bar palette) on top in a "kind of crescent, half-moon shape" that extended past the crease; the motion he used looked just like a windshield wiper in action. "I'm starting with the cream mostly for weight," Page said. "It gives the powder something to stick to and something with a little more depth."

Page diffused the edges of the shadow for a halo effect, and that was it—no mascara. "It's homemade glam," he said. "Just a single gesture."

Page kept the rest simple, touching up models' skin with Shiseido Sheer and Perfect Foundation SPF 18 and smoothing their lips with balm (Shiseido Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment). Nails were given the same bare-as-possible treatment: Just a coat of Marc Jacobs Beauty Enamored Hi-Shine Lacquer.

While Page's blue eye shadow was a nod to the '70s, hairstylist Guido looked to the '90s for lank, grungy waves. "It's a little rock and roll, but not in a beachy way—in more of a nighttime way," he said.

Guido parted the hair just off-center, prepped it with Redken Satinwear 02 Prepping Blow-Dry Lotion, and blew it straight using a round brush. But this wasn't a bouncy blowout. Guido avoided adding any body whatsoever by keeping the roots flat to the head as he dried. Then he wrapped hair loosely around the barrel of a one-inch curling iron for a subtle bend; some sections were wrapped away from the face, some toward.

Hair was coated with a hefty dose of Redken Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine, delivering a day-old feel. "I want it to feel very heavy, not floating and romantic—that's not the idea," Guido said. He tied scarves around the models' necks, tucking their hair inside to make it even flatter, as they sat backstage before the show. When they came down the runway, some models wore Marc by Marc scarves in the same fashion.