I'm new to the forum and to be honest restoring televisions. I've had this TV for years and would really like it to work if possible. I replaced the cord, when I plug in the TV I can hear humming and I do get some white lines. The speaker works. Some of the tubes are lighting. I was going to replace all the tubes ( new ) I see 1 fuse that I was going to replace. I have a set of rabbit ears that when I do hook them up seems like something is happening but I don't get a picture. Any thoughts, suggestions, etc.

Most of those tubes are likely just fine. It would be a waste of money to replace them just because they are old. Today’s TV signals are digital and a converter will be required to receive over the air signals. Yes, that set will need recapping. Don’t let it stay on very long, something could be damaged. Wait for advice on this thread before proceeding.

Ed

_________________The more I know about women, the better I like my radios and TVs.

This would be the first TV that I'm attempting to restore. So my knowledge is just from what I'm reading and watching on line. I might be biting off more than I can chew. We purchased the TV from a guy that was going to turn it into a bar or fish tank I really didn't want to see that happen.

Great that you saved it from becoming a fish tank. These conversions are plain stupid!Porthole TVs are usually very collectable.If you want to do the work yourself, its a really good idea to practice on a couple of radios of a similar vintage. Few professionals are capable (or interested) in doing this work unless they can charge a bundle. Most of the parts are not very expensive but there is a lot of labor involved.When these sets were only a few years old and something went wrong, the problem probably was a tube, but now time has aged other parts while the tubes are safely sealed off in a vacuum. The insides of the tubes were protected from moisture and air. Only physical vibration and similar violence could effect them.

This would be the first TV that I'm attempting to restore. So my knowledge is just from what I'm reading and watching on line. I might be biting off more than I can chew. We purchased the TV from a guy that was going to turn it into a bar or fish tank I really didn't want to see that happen.

What's the best way to go about getting my TV to work? I sure don't want to start tearing this apart until I'm sure I have what I need ( tools, parts, etc.. ). Where would the model # be stamped?

I appreciate all the help !!!

Art, sounds like you are very serious about getting your Raytheon TV to function againand willing to put some time in doing it. Before I got into restoring a few TVs I had done a lot of recapping and restoring on old tube radios. I came to this forum and the guys here gave me a lot of valuable advice. So migrating from Tube Radio restoration is a good starting point but there are still some precautions and information that you will need to pick up from the more experienced folks here.

If you have familiarity recapping tube radios I think you have a solid background to get in on TV restoration.What is your background and how much Electronics experience do you have?

I think the Raytheon porthole television is a great television to start on as a first project. The components under the Chassis are not crowded like most other televisions of that vintage.

The attached photo shows the Model Number for my Raytheon - look on the back of the chassis.I suspect its "C1602". Remove the thick cardboard like cover and take a peak inside.

Also look inside on the side walls for a sticker. It should have a model number along with a callout of the Vacuum Tubes used. Look for the Picture Tube - I suspect its a 16AP4 CRT.

When you have the back cover off, one thing YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO is touch that CRT's metal bell cover no matter if you have removed the power cord or turned the set off. That CRT will retain a charge. Always first remove power, then take a wire strap and ground the outside of the CRT to the chassis. You might hear/see a small spark. I use an Alligator wire and clip it to the the metal bell and the chassis, then make sure you remove the wire when you get ready to power up your TV. I would not power up the TV anymore until you have recapped it.

I would like to recommend a website dealing with Phil Nelson's twenty years plus of restoring and collection vintage radios and TVs. I believe Phil is a member of this forum. There is a lot to see on his site. As usual there are sometimes several ways of doing something, opinions can vary. Here is a page that is a good place to start.https://www.antiqueradio.org/FirstSteps ... ration.htm

I had the Raytheon model C-1104B porthole about 25 years ago, and had restored it then. I wish I still had it, but unfortunately because of moving a long distance away after having it for about 3 years, I ended up selling it to the new owner of my old home! As mentioned here, it was a nice easy chassis to recap, with plenty of room. Mine had a strange problem where, when it would power up, you would have sound but no or very low HV, you would "hear" the horizontal osc. and HV coming up, then get suppressed. It turned out that there was a shorted shielded cable going from part of the flyback to the AGC circuit, loading down the flyback! What excitement when I finally found this problem after pulling my hair out forever trying to get a raster on that thing. Once the raster came up, it was nice and bright, the 12LP4 CRT was quite strong! It had a great picture and quite an interesting "continuous" tuner that tuned much like a radio, although this one skipped the FM band, unlike the Dumont continuous tuner.

There are a couple different Raytheon chassis around, this is the easy "Normal" one with a flyback and conventional circuits, the other is a weird thing using an RF high voltage supply instead of a flyback and 50B5 tubes for the sweep.

I have a Truetone with this chassis in it and a Raytheon 10DX24 with the goofy chassis, neither was particularly hard to get running.

I had the Raytheon model C-1104B porthole about 25 years ago, and had restored it then. I wish I still had it, but unfortunately because of moving a long distance away after having it for about 3 years, I ended up selling it to the new owner of my old home! As mentioned here, it was a nice easy chassis to recap, with plenty of room. Mine had a strange problem where, when it would power up, you would have sound but no or very low HV, you would "hear" the horizontal osc. and HV coming up, then get suppressed. It turned out that there was a shorted shielded cable going from part of the flyback to the AGC circuit, loading down the flyback! What excitement when I finally found this problem after pulling my hair out forever trying to get a raster on that thing. Once the raster came up, it was nice and bright, the 12LP4 CRT was quite strong! It had a great picture and quite an interesting "continuous" tuner that tuned much like a radio, although this one skipped the FM band, unlike the Dumont continuous tuner.

This is interesting. I was never really satisfied with the picture quality in my Raytheon even after I installed a NOS 16AP4. I remember when I fine tuned to a good picture, the sound was muted.Perhaps I have the same problem with that shielded cable being shorted. Hmmm.