A LIFETIME OF FISH AND CHIPS

“You have two seasons here: summertime, and getting ready for summertime,” he said. “The business peaks in July — kids are out of school and the weather’s nice. It’s a weather business, and that’s one thing I have no control over.”

I interviewed Cross during the lunch rush on Monday, and when I left every table was occupied. Come June, watch for a line out the door.

“Right now, I’m fine- tuning my equipment, and I read all the time,” he said. “I read trade rags. I’m always interested in a new kind of oil-filtering machine, in ways to cut my costs.”

He has also done an admirable job of keeping up with the digital revolution.

On Monday, he laid a stack of printouts in front of me showing exactly how many of his website visits come from overseas — a surprising number, actually, which he attributes to the Marine Corps’ global reach.

It would be easy to sit back, with a prime location and historical reputation, and let the restaurant coast. But that is not in Cross’ nature.

“I’ve always felt that starting a business and getting a reputation is hard — but to maintain a reputation over 40 years is harder,” he told me. “A lot of times, you get in your comfort zone, or you get burned out, or you just don’t listen any more. I try to look ahead.”

As he found out the hard way, that doesn’t necessarily mean changing the menu.

“I tried different things at different points, but threw them all out the door and went back to basics,” Cross admitted. “I’m a greasy spoon where you eat with your fingers. I’m not a white-tablecloth kind of guy.

“One thing that’s in my mind all the time is Sally,” he added. “How would Sally do this? It’s a family business, and I want to keep it family. I want to leave it better than I found it.”

For a man who can’t work the register any more because of hearing loss and who has a hard time in the kitchen because of his worn-out wrists, Cross seemed especially chipper when we met this week.

It was the contentment of a man who is right where he knows he should be, I realized.

“Oceanside is where my heart is — it’s like an old shoe, really comfortable,” he said.

“I love this town. It used to be really rough, but it’s coming around … and it’s nice to finally see it grow into its own.”

Know anyone with an interesting job, history or outlook on life? Contact Tom Pfingsten at fallbrooktown@gmail.com