Brown Bread Ice Cream

When I was in Ireland, after a wonderful dinner at an old country inn, I was served a big bowl of Brown Bread Ice Cream. I had heard about this unusual ice cream quite a while back and like Grape-Nuts Ice Cream, which is something apparently enjoyed in New England (although I was born and live there for eighteen years and never saw or tasted even a lick of it), I was intrigued by the idea of bits of dark crunchies embedded in scoops of cool, creamy ice cream.

One bite, of course, and I was hooked and wanted to make it when I got home. I wasn’t quite sure how to go about it, and I sent a message to the inn inquiring about the process, but after a few weeks of checking my Inbox every three minutes, I just couldn’t wait any longer and decided to come up with one on my own.
Fortunately, around the same time, a copy of Tartine Bread landed in my mailbox from the publisher, and I was completely blown away at what a beautiful book it was.

I’m not a bread baker, although I appreciated the gorgeous photos of the rustic breads, but I was especially fixated on the recipes in the book for using bread, leftover or otherwise. One of my problems is that I often read cookbooks when I’m having dinner by myself and one thing leads to another—and in the best case scenario, I bookmark the recipe to make later. In the worst case, if I have the ingredients on hand, I leave my dinner to get cold and jump up into the kitchen to make the recipe. And it just so happened that I had a half a loaf of brown bread leftover. Imagine that!

If you’ve not been to Tartine in San Francisco, it’s a hotspot on a corner on the edge of the Mission district and is always jam-packed. A long time ago, a local restaurant owner on the street confided to me that the space, which at the time was an old-fashioned bakery, was going up for sale and that I should buy it and open up a bakery myself.

I considered it, but was having coffee with two friends that already owned bakeries in San Francisco and they both looked at me, then looked at each other, and said, “Why don’t you just take over ours for a few weeks?” They followed that with a knowing cackle between them which erupted into peals of laughter.

So I never did open my bakery in San Francisco, but Chad Robertson and his wife Elisabeth Pruitt have been a huge success and to be honest, the idea of waking up very early in the morning for the rest of my life wasn’t so appealing. So it all worked out for the best for everyone.

(Although Chad and Elisabeth might have something to say about that…)

If you don’t have any brown bread, any hearty whole-grain bread will do nicely. In the book, Chad uses basic country-style bread. I also give the option to use some brown sugar in the custard since I like the caramelized flavor it lends. But feel free to use all regular sugar. I have to say, I was considering cutting back on the sweetness a bit in the recipe for the crumbs but as I stirred up the bread bits with a smaller amount of sugar, I tasted as I went and kept adding more until I’d realized I added the recommended dosage, which was just perfect.

Brown Bread Ice Cream

Print Recipe

About1 1/4 quarts (1.25l)

Brown bread crumb recipe adapted from Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson
If you don’t have brown bread, you can use a hearty, whole grain bread that is somewhat crumbly. Even day-old bran muffins or gingerbread would be nice, especially if you plan to serve this ice cream around the holidays.
You’ll probably end up using about 2/3rds of the brown bread pieces, but if you’re anything like me, you can snack on the rest, or sprinkle them on top just before serving. Maybe with some chocolate sauce.

2. Crumble the bread into small, bite-sized bits. The largest should be no bigger than a kernel of corn.

3. In a skillet, heat the butter until it melts, then continue to cook until it starts to brown. Remove from heat and stir in the bread bits, 1/2 cup (100g) sugar, cinnamon, and salt.

4. Spread on the baking sheet and cook for 20 to 30 minutes, stirring a few times during baking, until the bread bits are well-toasted; a deep, dark brown.

5. Cool completely then store in an air-tight container until ready to use. (They can be made a few days in advance and stored at room temperature.)

6. To make the ice cream, heat the milk, 1/2 cup (125ml) of heavy cream, sugar and salt in a saucepan.

7. Pour the remaining 1 cup cream (250 ml) into a medium-sized bowl and the cubes or cream cheese or sour cream. Set a mesh strainer over the top and set the bowl in an ice bath.

7. In a separate bowl, stir together the egg yolks. Gradually pour some of the warm milk mixture into the yolks, whisking constantly as you pour. Scrape the warmed yolks and milk back into the saucepan.

8. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom with a heat-resistant spatula, until the custard thickens enough to coat the spatula.

9. Strain the custard into the heavy cream and cream cheese (or sour cream) and stir until smooth. Stir in the vanilla and whiskey, if using.

10. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, preferably overnight, then freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once churned, quickly fold in about two-thirds of the brown bread crumbs, or as much as to your liking, then store the ice cream in the freezer until firm and ready to serve.

Wow. This looks fantastic. What an interesting great idea for an ice cream flavor.

eko

November 10, 2010 6:31pm

Who would a-thunk it? The Irish of course ;-) I think this will be this year’s Christmas ice cream (last time it was your peppermint recipe.) I have never heard of grape-nut ice cream either…sounds intriguing. I have added grape-nuts to a banana bread recipe – wonder if I make that – then use the remainder for this ice cream. Well, not the first time – but an experiment worth thinking about. Is there a reason you put the ice cream in a flat type container – does it freeze or serve better that way?

Great post, as usual.
I was lucky enough to spent a month working at Tartine Bakery for my externship after pastry school. I had a wonderful time there.
I have a bit of a bread “obsession”, and seeing those loaves of bread been made from start to end by the masters, was a zen like experience.

Antonella: It was funny because last time I was in San Francisco, I really wanted some of his bread (which is excellent!) and went in during the day, but they told me, “The bread isn’t available until later on.” Which I thought was unusual since people usually buy bread in the morning to eat during the day. But it is worth waiting for..

This sounds amazing. I never would have thought of making ice cream with bread bits inside. Although it sort of reminds me of one of my favourite treats that I started making as a comfort food when I lived in France and was missing home, toasted bread (in France I used baguette, but here I use good, rustic wholegrain bread), smeared with salted butter and sprinkled with white sugar and cinnamon. I have even been known to have it for dinner….

Sam Breach

November 10, 2010 6:58pm

Brown bread ice cream was not an unusual thing when I was growing up. Maybe you misheard and it is common in OLD England, not NEW England ;)

Caramelized brown bread. Is it OK to just eat that and not make ice cream?

Simian

November 10, 2010 7:14pm

Yes, I love it and it is very common in England. It’s also peculiarly an ice cream you don’t need to use an ice cream maker with – Never known why, but it it just works with the traditional ice creams. Jane Grigson has a great recipe in her ‘English Food’, but my favourite recipe is from Beyond Nose to Tail (by Fergus Henderson) which includes a generous splash of Armagnac…mmmmmmmmmmmmmm!

Maya

November 10, 2010 7:19pm

This looks great! Have to say that I looooooooove GrapeNut ice cream (I’m from the Boston area, and we’d have it every summer when I was younger). You should really try it – it is amazing!

Well now it certainly makes sense to me why I always dumped heaping spoonfuls of grapenuts over my ice cream as a kid & I grew up an east coaster. Now more uses for our whole wheat bread. Gorgeous ice cream David!

Just when you think you’ve heard it all … another thing bread can do well: ice cream! What a great idea. Being in Boston, I’d definitely “tradeup” my grapenut ice cream for some brown bread with cinnamon and butter.

All hail to Jane Grigson, one of the greatest English cookery writers ever! If this idea is well-known in Britain and Ireland, it’s because she published the recipe in her lovely English Food book back in the 1970s. One of my favourite cookbooks ever.

Mrs Redboots

November 10, 2010 8:52pm

I, too, love brown bread ice cream, although I’ve never made it myself. My mother used to make it for dinner-parties. But then, when you think how delicious bread-and-butter pudding* is (especially Jamie Oliver’s recipe with brioche & marmalade), it’s not surprising that a similar recipe works frozen, too.

*Not to be confused with bread pudding, which is equally delicious, but wouldn’t freeze into ice-cream!

stephanie

November 10, 2010 9:13pm

I don’t even really like ice cream, but after reading your posts I always think I should give it another try. I was in BHV recently and was actually looking at ice cream machines thinking of some of your recipes. But reason prevailed and I realized that there are too many other decadent things that I DO like so keeping ice cream off of my list is probably a good idea. The bread crumbs however….sound like a perfect yogurt topping :)

Although my mother is a fabulous baker, we grew up eating the “Boston” brown bread from the can (on occasion). It’s quite rich and moist. I’m curious how that would work. I’m sure it’s quite different from your brown bread (Irish Soda Bread) recipe.

Easy A

November 10, 2010 9:49pm

if any of you are ever in Los Angeles,
give Scoops a try.
‘Brown Bread’ ice cream is their #1 flavor

Hi David,
I was researching ice cream machines on Amazon and noticed that the ICE 50 BC Cuisinart had a few problems. First the critiques almost all said it was extremely noisy and the mixer arm was problematic. I really would love an ice cream machine but need some advice on the best brand from an expert like you! Hope you can help.It’s my Christmas gift to myself.Thanks.

This is quite an unusual flavor, but worth trying, especially while visiting Ireland next May! BTW, thank you for getting back to me on my question about traveling there. We are looking forward to it after seeing your posts!

Nicole Hough

November 11, 2010 4:05am

I think I bookmark your blog every day – which isn’t really very efficient – but I just don’t want to FORGET to go back and find fantabulous recpies like this one! Oh I can’t wait to make it. And PS your brown bread recipe looks amazing but this post gave me a serious craving for that brown bread in a can from my childhood. PPS The first recipe of yours I made was your bacon ice cream. It became legendary in these here parts.

okay, the ice cream looks fabulous…but what really got my attention today is the Libby’s canned pumpkin for $7.95 each at amazon…hahahahah!!!

Kvcoombs

November 11, 2010 4:52am

David, Grape Nut ice cream certainly does exist, and I Usually find it a disappointing smush of good ice cream and bloated grape nuts…but I do order it from time to time (when not in a moose tracks mood) and there is something there. I promise to research this pressing ice cream dilemma next summer and if I find a worthy candidate in my New England canvassing, I will notify you promptly.
I too love brown bread, preferably with raisins and maple butter…in ice cream? Why not?
Thanks for the entertaining blog!

Ron Dufault

November 11, 2010 5:10am

Hi David.
I first had this brown bread ice cream at a pub in Garrykennedy, County Tipperary called Larkin’s. It is addictive. I had this for dessert everytime we visited the pub, it’s an excellent dessert.

OK – this looks wonderful and I want to eat it.
Because it has brown bread in it, does that make it healthy??

MarinMom

November 11, 2010 7:30am

Hi David,
I’ve been following your blog since July (as I prepared for my first trip to Paris in August). I’ve been enjoying it immensely. Loved the Ireland postings, and will be absolutely adding this recipe to my St. Patrick’s Day menu (I make a mean brown bread!).

For a full five minutes, I sat here thinking about the Wonder White bread and lame-o supermarket vanilla ice cream in my freezer.

If it weren’t for the fact that I’m sick and can’t taste much, I think I would’ve done my imagined sub-par recreation of this ice cream awesomeness.

Instead, I think I’ll go take another panadol. Sigh.

Susan

November 11, 2010 7:44am

I have a loaf of Anna Dama bread in my freezer. I got the recipe from Simply Recipes site and it’s delicious! It has a gingerbready sort of flavor from the molassas in it. Can’t wait to try this ice cream with a couple of slices. (Elise’s recipe is no more difficult than making a quick bread, though it is a yeast bread..you should try it!)

Geraldine In Spain

November 11, 2010 9:30am

David, you never CEASE to astound me! Another great. Even though today it feels like Siberia here in SUNNY SPAIN, with my cashmere socks and hat on at 8:00 a.m. I’m rushing to the kitchen to try this recipe. I always have great Brown Bread at home! THANK YOU.

What an intriguing ice cream flavour. At first it sounds rather odd but then when you look at the process it makes perfect sense. I’ve never been to Ireland but born and bred in England, I have never come across this ice cream flavour. I wish I had now.

I was just wondering when it is you post your blog, as by the time I get to read it, which is usually first thing for me and I am in your time zone, you always already have at least 40 comments. Do you write it in the middle of the night? Brown bread ice cream sounds interesting, I suppose you could also make this ice cream with left over christmas pudding or christmas cake (a little obsessed as I’m about to start making mine!) will keep it in mind! I wonder how my French supperclub will take to it!

Ooh that so makes me want to buy an ice cream maker!!! I tried brown bread ice cream once and loved it, but haven’t seen it since! That looks delish. Just may have to borrow someone’s ice cream maker … Thanks for posting!

(In fact I read in a recent New Yorker article that manufacturers know how to make noiseless vacuum cleaners but they find that customers didn’t think the machine was effective unless it made a lot of noise.)

So am not sure why people expect an ice cream maker to be silent. One can buy a much quieter machine for a lot more money, that has better sound insulation if they wish. But for the price, I think the ICE-50 is a pretty good machine and I’ve been happy with it. I keep mine in the other room when churning, which seems like a pretty simple solution.

Completely forgot about Grape-Nuts ice cream….my grandmother used to make it with maple flavoring in an old hand cranked machine. The cousins took turns sitting on it while another turned the handle under the tree in the hot San Joaquin valley.

Stella Mac

November 11, 2010 7:11pm

just returned from Ireland and could not get enough brown bread. i have been making piles of it, trying to perfect the recipe. Now i know what to do with all of those half loaves…beside feeding them to the chickens.
Nice work!

Corey

November 11, 2010 7:17pm

This reminds me of a dish I had in Santiago, Chile a few years ago. The restaurant Confiteria Torres served a Toasted Flour Ice Cream. It was fantastic.

David, I agree I found it peculiar that Tartine served bread after 4pm. From what I gathered is to allow the bread baker to have more of a normal working schedule, for a change, and by 3pm most of the baking for the bakery is done for the day. That’s when bread baker can take over the huge deck oven.

M'Lissa

November 11, 2010 8:27pm

Sounds interesting. In the past few months I’ve come to trust everything you say so I will definitely try this.
After recently purchasing an ice cream maker & “The Perfect Scoop” and trying many of your ice cream flavors you’ve won me over. I quickly moved on to “Ready for Dessert” with even more amazing results (no one could speak after tasting the cheesecake brownies). Everything has turned out perfectly.
Along the way, my sister & I have had such fun re-creating your masterpieces while the rest of the extended family anxiously wait in anticipation to see what’s for dessert today.
Your writings of your life in Paris and elsewhere constantly make my mouth water and make me laugh out loud. I look forward to each new post, thanks for sharing.

Corey: A while ago I did a toasted corn flour ice cream which was kind of an oddity, but rather tasty. I’ve played around with toasting flour and it is a wonderful way to bring out new, and unexpected, flavors.

But later, there was no more brown bread ice cream to be found. Oh, how we wailed and gnashed out teeth.

We went to England again and I googled and searched and stopped in every single ice cream shop we passed in search of more brown bread ice cream, but they all looked at me like I was crazy.

This recipe seals the decision to buy an ice cream maker.

BTW, my mom used to get granola ice cream at the commissary when we lived in the Panama Canal Zone. Maybe that’s where it all got diverted.

Joan Bedard

November 11, 2010 9:37pm

Dear David,
Thank you for your advice. I am feeling more confident investing in the ice cream machine after your intelligent and funny reasoning. Sorry I didn’t notice that you had already discussed purchasing ice cream machines in your post of 2006. You are very patient. Thanks again.

Jeffrey Massie

November 11, 2010 10:18pm

I grew up in Connecticut, and I can remember Grape-Nuts ice cream from Heibeck’s in Georgetown, along Route 7 halfway between Norwalk and Danbury. However, Heibeck’s seemed to be about the only place in CT that had it. Where it was (and still is) most common was in Rhode Island. Especially remember it at at Gray’s in Tiverton, east of Newport near the Massachusetts border:

David, this looks incredible. Seriously better than any ice cream I’ve seen to date. I’m going to have to try it and soon! Heck, I may be leaving my dinner half eaten as well.

Jeannette

November 12, 2010 12:43am

I have had the Cuisinart Ice cream machine for over two years and use it every week and I am very happy with it. It is noisy but, like you David, I keep mine in the utility room and close the door so the noise doesn’t bother me! I have had no trouble with it at all.
By the way, I am in the UK and have seen recipes for Brown Bread ice-cream in lots of books but have never been tempted to make it before until seeing it here, now I am tempted!

I would never had thought to add the taste of bread to ice cream, but I found myself beginning to wonder what this would taste like, poured over your recipe and now I’ve gotta try this one for myself. I’m a nut over all things ice cream, so pretty sure I’m going to love it :)

This sounds divine but grape nuts ice cream?! Why was I not told about this earlier! I love the subtle malt-y flavor of grape nuts and find them completely addicting. It’s nice to know some people in New England agree!

This sounds divine but grape nuts ice cream?! Why was I not told about this earlier! I find the subtle malt-y flavor of grape nuts completely addicting and love them mixed in to so many things. It’s nice to know the people of New England agree!

Henry

November 12, 2010 6:40am

The English chef James Martin also has a recipe for brown bread ice cream:
Brown bread ice cream

Serves 4-6

175g brown wholemeal breadcrumbs

300ml double cream

300ml single cream

125g icing sugar

2 egg yolks

1tbs rum (optional)

2 egg whites

Pre-heat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Spread the breadcrumbs out on a baking tray and toast in the oven for a couple of minutes until crisp and slightly browned. Meanwhile, beat the creams with the sugar. Mix together the yolks and rum, if using, and add to the cream mixture, beating well. When the breadcrumbs are cool, fold them gently and evenly into the cream mixture. Lastly, whip the whites of the eggs until stiff and fold into the mixture.

Transfer to a sealable container, place in the freezer and store until needed. (There is no need to stir this ice cream while it freezes.)

This looks amazing! You must try Grape-Nuts ice cream drizzled with warm (real of course) maple syrup. Yummy! Here in New Hampshire Grape-Nuts ice cream is readily available as is the syrup.

Alex

November 13, 2010 12:28am

I’m so excited to try this! I’ve been putting Grape-Nuts on top of my ice cream for years, but given that I live in the Mid-Atlantic instead of New England I had no idea that Grape-Nuts ice cream actually existed! My roommate always thought I was crazy (and quite noisy with all the crunching)! This is the perfect recipe for trying out my Kitchenaid ice cream maker attachment.

Liz

November 13, 2010 3:09am

Tulmeadow Farms in West Simsbury, CT has Grape Nut ice cream if you are every around there!

Of course Russians eat blini with caviar ( if they can afford it) and they follow them up with shots of ice-cold vodka. Then goes the superhot borsch. Than goes heaven.
Unfortunately, today in Moscow, it is mush easier to find posh sushi bars than traditional Russian cuisine.

I tried this recipe this week-end and it was great! I got confused with the ingredients though, instead of buying some “crème épaisse” (for the heavy cream) I got some crème fraîche… But it was really nice anyway. I used some “pain d’épices”.
I see that previous commenters have used Christmas pudding, and I think it could be really nice, but would you toast it in the same way as the gingerbread?
As good Belgians my friends asked me whether it wouldn’t be better with speculoos :-)
Thank you for sharing this recipe!

With the exception of a few post-college years in Manhattan, I’ve lived my whole life in Connecticut. I’ve never heard of Grape Nut ice cream. Apparently it exists, based on all the other comments, but I must ask WHY??????? Of all the cereals that you could make in to ice cream, why choose something healthy?

I enjoyed reading about your excitement in wanting to create your own brown bread ice-cream. I am also that way when I hear about an interesting recipe. What also interested me is that I too was fascinated by the use of bread in ice-cream. The first time I ate it,( made by a friend), I could not believe that the ice-cream contained bread.
I have made it several times since, using wholewheat bread as well, or crumbled cookies.
My favorite flavor is Kulfi, an Indian version of ice-cream. I have put up my link if you care to check it or try it.
I am reluctant to try yours because I do not cook with eggs, but I may try my egg-less version of it.

Thanks.

Nirmala

Agnes

November 15, 2010 12:45pm

Elizabeth David mentions some very old recipes for Brown Bread Ice Cream in her wonderful book “Is there a nutmeg in the house?” (available at Amazon). I like her essays on ice cream very much.

WOW! you know dear David I think you are the Ice Crema King!! Really This look specialy yumm, I have to make, thanks for sharin.
Not time ago I made a Quince Ice Crema, was yummy! Maybe you know this taste!
x gloria

Juz

November 17, 2010 1:36am

I made this at the weekend – thanks so much for the recipe. Was delicious topped with lashings of the leftover crumbs.

Hey David,
I’m from New England, too, and the only place I’ve EVER heard of, and tried, Grape Nut ice cream was Shady Glen, in CT. It was a 50’s style burger/ice cream place I worked at in high school for an few years of my life I’m not proud of, but its fans were hardcore! People who liked their Grape Nut (and there weren’t many who were even willing to try it) were diehard fans. They never tried anything else. The way they made it there, I’m quite sure they used brown sugar on the actual crumbs themselves, though. Either way, great recipe.

Jenifer Smith

November 20, 2010 8:05am

David,

I made your ice cream at work this week. It was amazing!!!!! We used the ground up bread pieces to coat caramels. Oh so good, thanks for the inspiration.

You have no idea how happy this makes me. I’m a Mainer and we always have a can of B&M Brown bread and beans in the cupboard. I’m going to make this for my dad for XMas and he’s going to go insane with happiness. Thank you. Thank you.

Cucperson

November 24, 2010 8:05pm

Alice Toklas has a recipe for brown bread ice cream in her book “Aromas and Flavors of Past and Present”. yum yum

omgfantastic

November 29, 2010 11:54pm

i second the los angeles scoops recommendation.

i get the brown bread ice cream whenever i’m there.

i didn’t know it was based on an old recipe, from europe. i’ll have to try to make it one day.

this is may be the weirdest ice cream ive come across! it’s so weird I just got to try it!

Michael

December 15, 2010 7:20pm

I’m Irish, I’ll claim a part in this idea,
I love brown bread ice cream!
Does anyone know if you could swap it with a few slices of crumbly gingerbread?
It could be a nice Christmassy ice cream.
Thanks !

Jill

January 5, 2011 11:41pm

I made some of this last week and my friend and I scooped some on Russian Imperial Stout, like a beer float. Sounds weird, but it was amazing!!

Tina

January 21, 2011 1:57pm

I like to try this ice cream recipe too… I think there is really so much to see in this blog. No wonder it was included in the Time Online Top 50 World’s Best Food Blogs and my congratulations. What is so surprising is the number or comments coming in. Many people love your work.

kd in Cincy

February 1, 2011 6:14am

My mother makes brown bread all the time and has as long as I can remember, so for Christmas, I made my siblings this ice cream. It is divine! I can’t wait to try some of your other ice creams. Thank you!