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We used it and love it. We are in NW Montana where humidity is not much of a problem. It's been two years, still looks good the only parts that need to be coated again are the horizontal exposed parts of the deck and stairs. We had to wait a year to stain as the summer we finished the build it rained so much we never had enough dry days to stain. We stained the entire house with a brush. We did not spray and back brush. We used less product and felt we didn't pollute the environment very much or kill the vegetation.

Hi Patty. I am pleased to see that TWP is performing well for you. When I suggest spray and back brush I am using a garden sprayer that sprays only stain, not stain mixed with air. It goes a little faster than just a brush. I suggest back brushing because i have seen the results of contractors JUST spraying stain on and not brushing it in and the coverage is not as thorough and look not nearly as nice. using just a Beest brush or bristol brush works wonderful as well. I would still apply a second coat within 20 minutes of the first coat.( covering an area of no larger than 6 to 8 foot long by 4 feet high). The second coat must be applied while the first is still wet.

I guess it really depends on your budget and what you are trying to accomplish. TWP is an oil based stain that is relatively inexpensive but it may not hold up as long as you would like and it may present some adhesion issues if you are planning to install chinking or caulking on your home.

I would recommend using a water based stain from Weatherall as you will not have any compatibility issues and you will more than likely get greater durability results. Also, Weatherall’s UV Guard II product comes with a 3 – 5 year warranty. Finally, my experience has shown that you typically get what you pay for in the stain market. Good luck and let us know if we can provide any further assistance or free product samples. Please contact me at john@logandtimberhomeproducts.com with any other questions.

I have successfully used TWP and did not need to re-stain with a fresh coat for 5 years on the 3 sides not taking most of the sun. For 4 years on the most sun exposed side. I could throw a cup of water on the logs after 4 years on most sun exposed side and water on other 3 sides after 5 years and the water still beads up. When I re-stained with Twp the stain returned to its original color ( cedartone 101 ). I have suggested TWP to more than 250 persons inquiring about stain choices and have not yet received one complaint back yet.

Regarding the chinking/caulking, you MUST use oil based caulk when staining with oil based stain. Titebond makes an oil based caulk that matches cedartone 101 perfectly. I could never caulk well until using an oil based caulk. Apply the proper bead and with proper pressure with your index finger on a 45% angle lightly fold the bead down and your results are professional looking. I have the specs on Titebond ( about 5.00 a tube ) if anyone is interested. ( ttadysak@habush.com).

If you go back for the past 3 to 4 years on this web site and look at the inquiries/complaints about people having problems with stains, consistantly those who were using stains that require a top clear coat ( makes the finish 'look pretty' ) have experienced serious problems with peeling, logs trapping moisture and becoming black or blotchy/black. Those who used stains high in lindseed oil had problems with their logs turning black, and several of the water based/water soluable stains not performing well.

Unless the U.S. Forest products research has changed or been updated, they found that semi transparent oil based penetrating stains hold up better than most. Many of the log home stains out there are COATINGS - NOT penetrating stains. They lay on the surface of the log and do not penetrate the wood fibers sufficient to provide the added protection while at the same time allowing the logs to breathe. YOU MUST NOT TRAP MOISTURE with the choice of stain you use. If you get sold on a stain that requires a new clear coat or top coat every two years then plan on what you are using trapping moisture.

Regarding the remarks above about adhesion problems with TWP, its quite simple ! You stain first then after allowing your logs to settle down if new construction ( this could take two or three years of settling, then you apply your OIL BASED CAULK - never water based on oil based stains.

Regarding TWP holding up, presently after 7 years of TWP on my log home I will match it up to any stain out there in terms of durability and quality finish appearance. I made sure my logs were free of mill glaze and dirt before staining, sprayed Timbor ( borax salt to treat the wood and protect it from bugs,mold and mildew) on all log and bare wood surfaces and allowed to dry, checked to be sure my moisture level was at or below 15 percent before staining and applied a coat of TWP on the logs with a simple $20.00 garden sprayer, backed brushed it in- then a second coat 20 minutes later and backed brushed it in and it has performed in North Central Wisconsin climate quite well.

I am NOT a log home builder, I do not sell log home staining products, I am not a professional log home finisher, I am just a guy who has learned to research the heck out of any project of serious concern and I pay attention to the facts and end results.

Recently I went to Weatherseal's web site and looked at the pictures of many stains tested. Take a look at some of the results - they were a real eye opener. Most stains they tested - some of the popular ones being promoted in these blogs - look aweful, including some of their own!

Prepare your logs for staining properly, treat the wood with Timbor or Borada-D before staining, follow the mfg. directions on moisture levels etc, back brush your stain into the wood, stay away from coatings that do not penetrate the wood fibers and better protect the logs, do not use products that trap the moisture - like clear coat sealers and top coats that do not allow the logs to breathe, and when possible, design your home with larger overhangs and use gutters to KEEP the logs dry ! Start your first course of logs at least 18 to 30 inches above final grade. KEEP THE LOGS DRY ! For anyone interested I can send pictures of what TWP looks like now 7 yearsinto existance and my 'how to prep and stain' sheet that has been of help to many others.

Thanks very much Terry, very helpful with my decision to use TWP. I will email you with my email so i can view your pictures and your " prep and stain " sheet. I am now starting to view your past posts to gather all info . Thanks again, Al

The key to stain longevity is the prep work done before the application. This is true with any product whether it is oil based or water based. The way that Terry described his prep work and application makes all the difference in the world. I don't think it would have mattered which stain he choose, as long as it was a quality product, he would be experiencing the success that he has.

Weatherall developed UV Guard (http://weatherall.com/log-home-stains-and-finishes/uv-guard-wood-fi...), the first 100% acrylic, water based stain for log homes more than 30 years ago and continues to produce this product everyday. Every manufacturer out there could site customers who are having the same success that Terry has. When homeowners must use chinking however, they must consider using water based stains because to my knowledge there aren't any oil based chinking products. Some claim they will perform with oil based finishes and we have seen success in the past but special care must be taken.

Hopefully the products that you choose will perform to your satisfaction and give your home many years of protection.

My Experience with water based stain in not good, I have been in a Ripple Craft Log home for 11 yrs. TWP Cedartone 101 is the only product ever used on this home. TWP is an oil based stain, and I have had no problems in 11yrs with TWP and only 2 applications. My Wooden Privacy fence however was done with a water based stain and I had to reapply an oil based stain after only 2yrs. It was parched and very dry looking, the water based stain had failed. This year I used TWP on the fence and added 2oz. of Boiled Linseed Oil to the TWP per gallon.I used a common garden sprayer.... the fence is now dry, finished and well oiled and protected. I have used this method with common Thompson's Clear Wood Finish, adding the Linseed Oil really prolonged its life on the wood. I'm not a fan of ANY water based stains, from my experience they don't last. They may be friendly to the environment, but I'm interested in longevity, period. Don Sigler