Comments: This is actually called "The Nose" (Same name as the formation). Harvey Carter did the first ascent of it in the 1950s on aid. Doug Snively and I did the first free ascent of it in 1971. The old pin welded in the crack was there then. We climbed all the way to the top of the buttress, but most folks lower from the pin now. Around the corner to the left is "Alabama Crack." There are two starts to it. Climb up and left from the slab below the Nose roof to a belay shelf below Alabama Crack or from ... more >>

Comments: We checked this bolt yesterday. It is loose. We tightened it down in the hole and it is fine now. We will replace it sometime in the next couple months with a glue-in bolt. The sandstone on the east side of Red Rock Canyon is not great quality rock. Holes drilled in it tend to be slightly oversized.

Comments: Yep, this is Rimrock Spire. Right off the east side of I-70. And yes Harvey did 2 routes on it and Fred Knapp, Sharpend guru, did them both free at 5.10d. BingBong is on the right side and Northwest is on the left side. Actually pretty good climbs if you can put up with the highway noise.

Comments: I have the bolt that was pulled out. Apparently some climbers got on the route before the epoxy was completely set and loosened it and then removed it. We left a note on the bolt saying not to use it for at least 2 days. Anyway we might just place an Army angle in the hole for now. The Visitor Center is wrong about drilling holes. There is no regulation at the GofG that says that holes cannot be drilled not bolts or pitons placed. It is actively discouraged however.

Comments: Matt, see my comment at the Silver Cascade main page. That anchor is not the anchor for the climb. I took the hanger off...again...and will return to chop that extra bolt. It ain't needed. From that bolt, climb up right to another bolt and climb easy rock to the cliff top and a tree belay. Then hike off south. Silver Cascade does not need convenience belays like this one which was put in by Travis Nolan in 1995, the year after I did the FA of the route.

Comments: The anchor for Reality Check is the tree at the top of the cliff. I took that hanger off that extra bolt this past July. Travis Nolan placed the anchor the year (1995) after I did the FA of the route. It is simply a convenience anchor and is not needed. I've been meaning to chop that extra bolt for awhile and patch the hole. Likewise this route has sprouted all kinds of extra unnecessary bolts, including the first 2. So climb the route to the top of the cliff and hike off south around the slab t... more >>

Comments: Yep, someone pulled the glue-in bolt out a few days after it was set. Now there is the possibility that Potholes may be closed and all the fixed protection removed because of the increased risk of someone hitting the sidewalk and breaking a leg. The bolt was originally placed to avoid that scenario. The city parks dept. was getting tired of having a climber fall off that route once or twice a year and breaking a leg. They recommended that we add a bolt or the route would be closed.

I have a hard time discerning exactly what route you mean on Pine Cone Dome from the photograph, but I think what you climbed is "Harder Than It Looks" (5.10a). The route has 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor; some cams can give extra pro. Bill Schmausser did the FA. Fun climb with a short crux.

Comments: The bottom bolt on Potholes was replaced on Monday, September 10 by Brian Shelton and Stewart Green with a 4-inch-long, 1/2-inch stainless steel Petzl eyebolt. The previous 1/2-inch bolt had slowly worked loose (although it still took a lot of work to extricate it from the hole) over the last 3 years. It was loosened in 2004 after being in place only a few days when someone decided to try to remove it (see above thread), but all they succeeded in doing was making it unsafe. The new glue-in is a ... more >>

Comments: On Monday, September 10, Brian Shelton, CJ Sidebottom, and I installed a new anchor for Practice Slab since the existing old one is unsafe. We glued in two 1/2-inch eyebolts and a 1/2-inch Army angle. The existing anchor was left as a back up. Do not thread your rope directly through the eyebolts for top-roping, instead used carabiners and slings or quickdraws to create an equalized anchor from the three pieces. Top-roping directly through the eyebolts wears them out very quickly!

Comments: The anchor at the end of pitch 1 is on the anchor replacement to-do list. Hopefully it will be improved and modernized this autumn after Climbing Mag and Petzl sends some new hardware for the effort.

Comments: Josh, I am revising RCCO right now. Rather finishing it. When I get back to COS next week (stuck in Yakima right now waiting for a new truck engine), I will email you the revised descriptions and ratings. Climbed most of the routes two weeks ago...S

Comments: I hate to break the news, buddy, but those boulders are not untouched. A bunch of guys from Colorado Springs, including Bob D'Antonio, Pete Gallagher, Brian Teale, Steve Cheyney, Ian Spencer-Green, the late Jack Mileski, and myself, have climbed on most of those campground boulders starting back in the early 1970s. The ethic and tradition of bouldering in Elevenmile Canyon has always been to leave the stuff unnamed and unrated so everyone who comes along can have a chance to climb problems like ... more >>

Comments: I did that bolt ladder up the east face back in the late seventies. Those pins were pretty manky then...I hate to think of them now. Do it in 2 pitches. First pitch up to a stance below the ladder. Second pitch is clipping bolts in aiders. I remember it as kinda fun, but also scary.

Comments: Alex, thanks for the update on those anchors atop West Point Crack/Kor's Korner pillar. Myself and a couple other climbers replaced the manky anchors atop there 3 years ago. Two big bolts with Metolius hangers and later I added chain. Someone took the chain shortly afterward and put slings on the bolts. I will go back and replace the missing bolt, maybe with a big glue-in and add chain again. Brad Saren also wants to go up and replace the anchors on the top of Kor's Korner's first pitch, so mayb... more >>