Bowl of Noodles

Dassara brings Brooklyn the ramen it deserves

9/14/12

Note the wonders it works: Not only does it align missed romantic connections, it also united husband-and-wife team Justin DeSpirito and Lana Yang with chef-general manager Josh Kaplan in just one post.

The exceedingly delicious, mostly brothless mazemen-style ramen ($13) goes for a heavy dose of noodles in a small amount of broth hazy with Manila clams. This means the clam-buttered noodles sit lightly in a gentle coat of garlicky lemon-zested broth without drowning in it. It’s a parsley-blasted clam linguine in a torrid tryst with technique-rooted ramen.

Though this ramen shop is so much more than ramen. The “Not Ramen” half of the menu includes rounds of rice cakes pooled in shiso brown butter and oil-cured chiles ($10). Dotted with Chinese sausage, the dish is one part satisfying chew, one part down pillow.

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