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Mike wrote:
Wine grapes....What is the best fertilizer for them in the spring?
Beginning with the second year of growth, you should scatter 4 to 6 ounces
of 5-5-10 or 5-10-10 fertilizer around the base of each plant, but be
certain to keep the fertilizer about a foot from the trunk. Each year
after that, double the rate of application until you have reached a
maximum of 3 pounds of food per plant. If soil is naturally rich, less
fertilizing is needed. Many times, grapes can be grown successfully
by fertilizing only every two to three years. The soil pH is also important,
so add enough lime to bring the pH up to 6.0 to 6.5.

April wrote:
Hi. I'm April from Georgia & I have planted me a garden this year with
a few different beans, peas, some Squash, cantalope and watermelon. Everything
so far has begun to spout fine (except for my white acre peas, &
I think they didn't make it because we had so much rain for quiet a while.
My problem is that all of the new veggie growths are turning a bit yellow
on the leaves. I am worried that something is wrong & I don't know what
it might be. This is only my 2nd year of gardening. I water only once a
day because we have had a lot of rain. They get plenty of sunshine. Is
the yellow normal? Or may there be something wrong? Any advise would help.
Thanks so much!
Give your plants a chance to dry out slightly before you water them. Over
watering can be more hazardous to your plants health than making them
go without water, especially when they are only seedlings. If you are
receiving rain on a regular basis, you probably don't need to be concerned
with watering at all!

Kristen wrote:
I purchased a cactus about a year ago. I've noticed recently that it looks
shriveled in some areas - not terribly, but a little. I believe it a
prickly pear cactus (or at least it looks like one). I keep it in a
window that has a northern exposure (the only window I have in my office)
but there is large overhang right above my window. I water about every
two weeks and only about 1/8 to 1/4 cup each time. What am I doing wrong?
I have a jade plant in a window in my office that has a northern exposure.
When I first purchased the plant it did fine. Then, over the winter, it
began to drop leaves like crazy; I suspect because I was over-watering
during its more dormant period. Now, it has new growth at the tops of the
plant, however, some of the lower, larger leaves look droopy and shriveled...
What am I doing wrong?
Your Prickly pear (Opuntia) is thirsty! Cacti, especially pad type
cacti need more water than what is commonly assumed. In their natural habitat
they will survive with very little water, but they won't thrive. When
you water cactus, give them a thorough drink by allowing the plant to soak
up water from the bottom for a few hours, then allow the soil to completely dry
before you water again. My 'rule of thumb' on watering my own succulents
has always been to water once a week when actively growing and once a month
when dormant. You will have to watch your plants reaction to this timing,
because temperature and light can change the plants water consumption considerably,
and then adjust the schedule accordingly. The situation is basically the
same with your Jade plant (Crassula argentea) but it will probably
take even more water than the cactus. The nodes where the leaves have fallen
from will usually produce a new branch on your plant, if the plant is healthy.
Keep in mind that Jades are a southern hemisphere plant, and if it is growing
in the northern hemisphere it might tend to be a bit confused as to when
it's suppose to be dormant. Don' try to force dormancy by cutting back
on the water, let the plant tell you when it is time for a break (when
new growth slows or stops for a period of time). Don't forget about feeding
succulents during their growth periods either, but always use half strength of
the normal recommended solution. Your Prickly pear would prefer full
sun, and your Jade would do better in partial sun, or at least bright
light. They would both do much better if you provided extra light to
them by using a gro light.

Kristen wrote:
I grouped a 2 yr old african violet in a large pot with two new ones. The
2 yr old would flower for me about once a month or every 6 weeks. Ever
since I potted it with the two new ones, it won't flower. Actually,
the new ones have stopped flowering also. I keep it in a window with
a northern exposure and water twice weekly, but only enough to moisten
the soil. I fed once with all purpose food; that was about 3 months
ago. Why would the older violet stop flowering all together? I also
changed it's location from a window with a western exposure. Please
help! :-(
African violets (Saintpaulia) must be fed with a specific fertilizer
formulated for African violets (0-10-10). They require certain trace elements
which aren't available with an all purpose food, as well as a soil acidifier.
The violet food will take care of these needs. African violets need about
fourteen hours of bright light a day. It may be necessary to provide
supplemental light for them, by using a Gro light, especially during the
winter months. Spent flowers should be removed as soon as they begin to
fade. This will allow the plants energy to be used to produce new blossoms
rather than seeds.