Well Mr pooppy pants I watched the video a couple of times. My ham fisted fingers and the lack of room on the left side is what caused the problem, not watching videos or thinking I know more that what I do, unlike some of us

Logged

Jerry Holland COG 44782013 Speed Triple (1986, 2000, 2001 C10 and 2009 and 2013 C14)Man, you were hauling a** the other day when I passed you

Well Mr pooppy pants I watched the video a couple of times. My ham fisted fingers and the lack of room on the left side is what caused the problem, not watching videos or thinking I know more that what I do, unlike some of us

Installed the Eviteks verses the ADV Monster ones. The ADV LED's light is a slightly higher temp than a halogen. The beam pattern is not that great in my C14 housings. OTOH they work excellent in the KLR and the KLR ones are much closer to the 5700K they advertise.

I don't know why the ADV ones are so dim compared to the Evitechs, ADV said it must be a voltage issue but I tried several bulbs, HID's and LEDs and they all work well. Maybe I got a bad batch from ADV but they assure me all products are tested before shipment.

I did a comparison of beams and light output, one lens with the Eviteks, one lens with the ADV ones. There is no comparison, the Eviteks are way brighter and a good beam and cutoff. The ADV ones are not focused at all in my C14 housings, not sure why?

But, I am staying with the Eviteks for now. May try the Phillips just for yuks later on.

I have run HID's in many bikes, and have even had them survive and still operate after an accident. I found that on my old bike, they threw light fairly well down the road, but did cast a bit of light into oncoming traffic due to the housing reflector not being designed for it. Once I purchased my C14, I questioned what the best options were. LED lights were still coming out, and still hadn't proved effective enough to use due to low amount of lumens being produced. LED's didn't have enough individual LEDS to produce enough consistent light, and the high/low HID's proved to be unreliable as far as operation, and the position of the filament.

I finally opted to graft into the headlights, 3" clear lens projectors, with factory sized DS2, Phillips Night Breaker bulbs. They operate in the same fashion as factory car HID projectors with high beam and low beam all from a magnetic shutter inside the housing. They produce a wonderful amount of light, consistently from one side of the road to the other. My first long ride at night, we found that they illuminated from the median across all 4 lanes of I-5, all the way to the right hand shoulder. Only downfall, hard corners cause the light to dip creating a dark zone. This would easily be solved with the use of driving lights for fill, and I never plan to banking that far at night for it to matter much. I find that the light output from my headlights tend to illuminate greater than most any other light on the road and can cause people ahead of you to prefer to be behind you due to them overriding their lights. Kinda fun pulling up next the a high end vehicle on my bike and be able to produce a better quality light than them.

Installing is a bit time consuming, and requires a good deal of disassembly on the front of you bike as well as your headlight housing itself. Modification to the stock housing is required, and does not afford you the option to go back to halogen. Stay with the projectors, or replace the entire housing. I'm still very pleased with the performance of these lights. I did try high/low LED upgrades on a vehicle, and had one fail in less than 5 minuted. I work at a parts store, and we have seen many types of lights come and go.

I agree with everything you've stated-installed the same kit-have considered driving lights for the loss of light in corners but seems they need to be pointed in a manor that would annoy on-coming drivers.

I have run HID's in many bikes, and have even had them survive and still operate after an accident. I found that on my old bike, they threw light fairly well down the road, but did cast a bit of light into oncoming traffic due to the housing reflector not being designed for it. Once I purchased my C14, I questioned what the best options were. LED lights were still coming out, and still hadn't proved effective enough to use due to low amount of lumens being produced. LED's didn't have enough individual LEDS to produce enough consistent light, and the high/low HID's proved to be unreliable as far as operation, and the position of the filament.

I finally opted to graft into the headlights, 3" clear lens projectors, with factory sized DS2, Phillips Night Breaker bulbs. They operate in the same fashion as factory car HID projectors with high beam and low beam all from a magnetic shutter inside the housing. They produce a wonderful amount of light, consistently from one side of the road to the other. My first long ride at night, we found that they illuminated from the median across all 4 lanes of I-5, all the way to the right hand shoulder. Only downfall, hard corners cause the light to dip creating a dark zone. This would easily be solved with the use of driving lights for fill, and I never plan to banking that far at night for it to matter much. I find that the light output from my headlights tend to illuminate greater than most any other light on the road and can cause people ahead of you to prefer to be behind you due to them overriding their lights. Kinda fun pulling up next the a high end vehicle on my bike and be able to produce a better quality light than them.

Installing is a bit time consuming, and requires a good deal of disassembly on the front of you bike as well as your headlight housing itself. Modification to the stock housing is required, and does not afford you the option to go back to halogen. Stay with the projectors, or replace the entire housing. I'm still very pleased with the performance of these lights. I did try high/low LED upgrades on a vehicle, and had one fail in less than 5 minuted. I work at a parts store, and we have seen many types of lights come and go.

I agree with everything you've stated-installed the same kit-have considered driving lights for the loss of light in corners but seems they need to be pointed in a manor that would annoy on-coming drivers.

I have spent considerable time imagining solutions for the dip of light in corners, and the rise and fall that come with acceleration and deceleration. I knew this was going to be an issue with these projectors from the beginning, but was willing to trade that for greater light output.

Even before my installation, I thought about fabbing a 2 axis brushless gimbal type mount that foremost would mitigate the rise and fall of the light via a pivot point adjusting the projector up and down, secondly allowing the projectors to rotate on the horizon keeping the light pattern flat. This would all be electronically controlled by a gimbal control system and 2 brushless motor that have precise response. This would allow auto leveling regardless of load, and consistent even plane of light at all times. Issues are space in the headlight, and vibration while riding. I'm not sure about lifespan on the motors with that load weight and sharp vibrations at times. This technology is mainly found on drones and camera gimbals providing fast response and amazing blur free video. I'm just not sure on the reliability of the components.

I opted to just install the projectors by themselves as I was too inpatient. Fast forward to now. I recently had one of the projectors pull loose and provide a slight wobble. Hardly noticeable, but I can't let it stay this way. I'm going to have to take the entire assembly apart again, and make a minor repair. While I'm in there, I'm going to be taking some measurements and will be revisiting this gimbal idea. I hope it all works and I'll be able to share a new experience.

Logged

When fire is cried and danger is neigh, "God and the firemen" is the people's cry; But when 'tis out and all things righted, God is forgotten and the firemen slighted.

Well I am staying with the Eviteks. I tried the ADV-M R3's again and they are not bright, and no matter what I do I am unable to get any kind of decent light pattern out of them. The light is just defused all over. The set I have just don't work. Now in a box and into my closet of shame.

I got to ride in the dark last week with the Eviteks, they work better overall than my H4 HID's I have been using for years.

Why upgrade half way? I went whole hog and did a complete HID upgrade, incredible light down the road with a super sharp cut off, and the halo's flash amber with the turn signals on. The added bonus is it is really hard to get a lock on me with LASAR, I am only about 75 feet away now when they put the gun down, plenty of time to slow down.

Why would changing the headlights effect the Laser when acquiring your bike?

I have tried several LED bulbs (and HID) in both my bikes and cars and experienced the same issues.... very bright but lousy pattern. I have found a product however that is simply outstanding. Fantastically bright, designed for reflector application and so it throws a wide sharp low beam and far reaching high bean. I have one in my Valkyrie's bucket and now just put them in my new Connie. They aren't cheap but the best out there BY FAR that I have found. They are also very easy to install because the heat sink screws off so you can get the spring clamp thingy back on with no problem. I pushed the rubber boot's butt in backwards so that also fit perfectly.

I have run HID's in many bikes, and have even had them survive and still operate after an accident. I found that on my old bike, they threw light fairly well down the road, but did cast a bit of light into oncoming traffic due to the housing reflector not being designed for it. Once I purchased my C14, I questioned what the best options were. LED lights were still coming out, and still hadn't proved effective enough to use due to low amount of lumens being produced. LED's didn't have enough individual LEDS to produce enough consistent light, and the high/low HID's proved to be unreliable as far as operation, and the position of the filament.

I finally opted to graft into the headlights, 3" clear lens projectors, with factory sized DS2, Phillips Night Breaker bulbs. They operate in the same fashion as factory car HID projectors with high beam and low beam all from a magnetic shutter inside the housing. They produce a wonderful amount of light, consistently from one side of the road to the other. My first long ride at night, we found that they illuminated from the median across all 4 lanes of I-5, all the way to the right hand shoulder. Only downfall, hard corners cause the light to dip creating a dark zone. This would easily be solved with the use of driving lights for fill, and I never plan to banking that far at night for it to matter much. I find that the light output from my headlights tend to illuminate greater than most any other light on the road and can cause people ahead of you to prefer to be behind you due to them overriding their lights. Kinda fun pulling up next the a high end vehicle on my bike and be able to produce a better quality light than them.

Installing is a bit time consuming, and requires a good deal of disassembly on the front of you bike as well as your headlight housing itself. Modification to the stock housing is required, and does not afford you the option to go back to halogen. Stay with the projectors, or replace the entire housing. I'm still very pleased with the performance of these lights. I did try high/low LED upgrades on a vehicle, and had one fail in less than 5 minuted. I work at a parts store, and we have seen many types of lights come and go.

I agree with everything you've stated-installed the same kit-have considered driving lights for the loss of light in corners but seems they need to be pointed in a manor that would annoy on-coming drivers.

I have spent considerable time imagining solutions for the dip of light in corners, and the rise and fall that come with acceleration and deceleration. I knew this was going to be an issue with these projectors from the beginning, but was willing to trade that for greater light output.

Even before my installation, I thought about fabbing a 2 axis brushless gimbal type mount that foremost would mitigate the rise and fall of the light via a pivot point adjusting the projector up and down, secondly allowing the projectors to rotate on the horizon keeping the light pattern flat. This would all be electronically controlled by a gimbal control system and 2 brushless motor that have precise response. This would allow auto leveling regardless of load, and consistent even plane of light at all times. Issues are space in the headlight, and vibration while riding. I'm not sure about lifespan on the motors with that load weight and sharp vibrations at times. This technology is mainly found on drones and camera gimbals providing fast response and amazing blur free video. I'm just not sure on the reliability of the components.

I opted to just install the projectors by themselves as I was too inpatient. Fast forward to now. I recently had one of the projectors pull loose and provide a slight wobble. Hardly noticeable, but I can't let it stay this way. I'm going to have to take the entire assembly apart again, and make a minor repair. While I'm in there, I'm going to be taking some measurements and will be revisiting this gimbal idea. I hope it all works and I'll be able to share a new experience.

Please keep me/us posted-sounds interesting ! My only solution was to add/fab a system that is lean sensitive like KTM's-but I'm no electronics guru !

When I joined I received bashing for stating to run HI beams at night.Just want to share my recent encounter with an older C14 during my trek around WA state. Background, I run 2x3 watts LED as DRL's (for visibility) which I aimed down to reduce glare. Otherwise my headlights are OEM. So, I was on my way to overnight halt, when I see this bright as day headlight equipped C14, looked like 1gen. I flashed HI so he can turn his down. They looked more like HID rather than LED. The glare was beyond what one would accept tolarable. I was blinded to say the least. So to all those who has "upgraded" OFF-ROAD only headlights and contributed to my post bashing, I want to say your prudence is beyond reproach. Great Job.

Hello Guys, I'm a newbie to the forum. I converted my entire bike to LED's from a website called Superbrightleds.com I have used HID kits in the past and these LEDs look every bit as good and throw a great light pattern. I did have to change the turn signal relay to work with the new bulbs though. Check them out, I think you will agree.

...I see this bright as day headlight equipped C14, looked like 1gen. I flashed HI so he can turn his down. They looked more like HID rather than LED. The glare was beyond what one would accept tolerable. I was blinded to say the least.

I run HIDs in both of my C14s. The Hi/Lo-beam cutoff is VERY pronounced, and - as holds true with marksmanship pursuits - they're properly aimed as well.

I've never gotten flashed from anyone while riding either of them on Low beam, and I've never incurred the wrath of our LE for 'failure to dim'.

When I joined I received bashing for stating to run HI beams at night.Just want to share my recent encounter with an older C14 during my trek around WA state. Background, I run 2x3 watts LED as DRL's (for visibility) which I aimed down to reduce glare. Otherwise my headlights are OEM. So, I was on my way to overnight halt, when I see this bright as day headlight equipped C14, looked like 1gen. I flashed HI so he can turn his down. They looked more like HID rather than LED. The glare was beyond what one would accept tolarable. I was blinded to say the least. So to all those who has "upgraded" OFF-ROAD only headlights and contributed to my post bashing, I want to say your prudence is beyond reproach. Great Job. I recall you got bashed because you said something to the affect that you will not dim your lights no matter what because your life is more important then the oncoming vehicles, so why would you expect anyone else to dim their lights for you? I know that is not a direct quote of your words though!Cheers...

So I'm down to the following LED choices1. Evitek2. Cyclops3. Pathfinder from So-Cal

I'm pretty impressed with what I've found on the 1st 2, but can't find much in the way of experience or recommendations on the pathfinder setup. So-Cal has been selling an LED setup for years for our bikes but I just don't hear much about the upgrade for our bikes. As a result, I'm leaning more toward the fist 2.... Any thoughts?

So I'm down to the following LED choices1. Evitek2. Cyclops3. Pathfinder from So-Cal

I'm pretty impressed with what I've found on the 1st 2, but can't find much in the way of experience or recommendations on the pathfinder setup. So-Cal has been selling an LED setup for years for our bikes but I just don't hear much about the upgrade for our bikes. As a result, I'm leaning more toward the fist 2.... Any thoughts?