Bourbon streusel is just one of the flavordynamics in Chez Jude’s Bourbon StreuselPumpkin Tart. “Bourbon is mixed into thepumpkin custard, and the tart is a classicshortbread,” Barsness says. “We combinebrown sugar and butter, plus some toastedwalnuts, to create the streusel that bakes ontop of the custard.”Using Gravenstein apples, among the first ofthe fall harvest, Wu creates a caramel applesundae that nicely balances “sweet and tart,while being lighter and more floral,” she says.“I also try to add earthy components, such asroots and leaves, in preparations. I’ve usedpeach leaves—they actually have an almondflavor—while sassafras, as well as linden, areon my list of leaves to try.”“We serve it with fig (puréed) and blackberry/vinegar coulis that we make during thesummertime. We age it for about two or threeweeks, then bottle it for use throughout thefall. Candied almonds are added to the side ofthe ice cream on the plate.”To paint the plate, there’s a palette of saucesthat includes crème anglaise and homemadesea salt/caramel sauce, a confetti of candiedwalnut pieces, and a scoop of sage ice creamgarnished with a fried sage leaf dipped in hotoil for a second or two.

Her Concord grape pie filling is a deep
royal-purple treat of jam-like consistency
when cooked, skins and all, and macerated
a bit. The “jam” goes into a pie shell, a
lattice top is draped over all, and the pie is
baked and served with the Lemon Custard
Fig Leaf Ice Cream.

Also featured on the fall menu at Chez Jude
is butternut squash/maple syrup pot de
crème, pumpkin creme brulee, cranberry/
champagne sorbet and a cheese plate, with
seasonal fruit paired with regional cheeses,
assorted flatbreads, and a little square of
fresh organic honeycomb sourced from a
local beekeeper.

In a unique preparation, Wu incorporates
the essence of fir trees in her Bartlett pear
roasted over Douglas fir. “I lay Douglas fir— 4
to 6-inch-long twigs—in the bottom of the
pan, along with a reduction of honey, sugar,
lemon juice, plus a bit of water, and place
whole pears on top of that,” she explains.
“The pan goes into a 350°-375°F oven for
about 1½ hours. Turn the pears occasionally
so they’re completely basted, but watch
them carefully so they don’t burn.”

BILLIONAIRE’S BACON CREATION
By special request, Wu recently created
a bacon/chocolate dessert with candied-bacon garnish. Although it’s a departure
from her traditional Farallon dessert menu
offerings, she admits it could be ideal for fall.

AUTUMN LEAVES
Terri Wu started her back-of-the-house
career working on the hot line at San
Francisco’s Farallon, where the ambiance
puts guests in mind of an underwater
fantasy and the cuisine is “sophisticated
coastal.” But Wu, who had studied art
history at Berkeley, was drawn to the pastry
production side of things, and began training
under Farallon’s pastry chef Emily Luchetti.
In 2007, Wu became the restaurant’s pastry
chef, and continues the tradition of creating
seasonal dessert menus.

Once out of the oven, each whole roastedpear is set atop a portion of hazelnut/brownbutter cake, and a glaze is drizzled overall. (The glaze is a reduction of the honey,sugar, lemon juice and water finished withframboise.) “Also on the plate, I put a bit ofmascarpone cream that’s been whipped withtea—also steeped with Douglas fir—to addanother layer and dimension of earthiness.”“I made a chocolate marquise of meltedchocolate with whipped cream, sugarand egg yolks folded in, so it’s more like amousse,” she explains. Next, she prepareda petit quenelle of bacon-infused cremefraiche to go on the side, with Billionaire’sBacon as garnish.

Fig leaves impart a hint of coconut flavor to
Wu’s Lemon Custard Fig Leaf Ice Cream
that nestles next to a slice of Concord grape
pie. To prepare the ice cream, she steeps fig
leaves with a bit of lemon rind in the ice cream
base, gently heating it for about 20 minutes.

Billionaire’s Bacon is basically brown sugar-covered bacon. “I chop up the Billionaire’s
Bacon and made a tuile with cocoa nibs and
caramelized sugar, grinding the ingredients
up so it isn’t chunky, then spread it on a
Silpat and bake it for about five minutes.
It’s very delicate, and looks like a mosaic or
stained glass. Finally, I break it into shards,