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You need to use a slip coupling and install a short nipple on one side of the T. You cut the pipe slide the t on 1 side and measure the other where the nipple stops and cut the pipe there. Slide the slip coupling all the way on the copper pipe, install the T, slide the coupling 1/2 way up the nipple, aim the T where you want it, and solder it up or continue running your copper and then solder.

A slip coupling is basically a straight coupler without the normal stop in the middle that centers the two pieces of pipe. This allows it to slide entirely over the pipe. It's not a bad idea to mark or measure the pipe so that when you slide it back over the cut portion, you've got about 1/2 of it over each cut portion.

When I see a situation like that I always wonder if it will be possible to get all the water out of the lower pipe and shut it off completely. If there is a trickle of water or the water can't be removed, it will be impossible to solder. If there is NO water from the lower pipe, and the valve above doesn't leak, then the water can be displaced from the lower one and the joint can be soldered.

I thought of using a product called Just For Copper. Have any used it or know anything about it?

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I don't know anything about it....BUT...I read their spec sheet ( Technical Specifications )...and to say the least: I am not impressed

Expiration Time:
One year if it is maintained between 18ÂºC and 24ÂºC

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18ÂºC = 64.4ÂºF
24ÂºC = 75.2ÂºF F= (C*1.8)+32

That's not too impressive of a spread - 10.6ÂºF....and that wall appears to be an exterior wall (pipe to a hose bibb?). Are you certain that area will remain within the parameters indicated? For more than a year?

I *might* consider it a band aid on a second home/rental property - just until I can return with some fittings and a torch.

Woodford makes one that is supposed to be burst proof if the hose is left on for a few $$ more. It back feeds into the water line if the pressure exceeds 300 or 350#. The one above does not have / show an anti siphon vacume breaker on it which it should. Like this.

If you are doing a CPVC slip coupler, how do you apply the cement to the slip coupling? Do you just apply a liberal amount to the area you are gluing to, slide the coupler into position, and hope there's enough glue to make a proper seal inside the coupler?
(and how long do you typically have to wait for the glue to be thoroughly dried before you turn the water on?)