A water tour through Muziris

Part 1 - Muziris History and Paravur Synagogue

It was in the beginning of the year 2014, that I stumbled upon the
word "Muziris". One of my friends had started a home stay in the name of
"Muziris Harbor View". From then, I kept hearing the word Muziris from
every nook and corner of the travelling community. The word was quite
intriguing and mesmerizing for a history buff like me. Thousands of
year's worth world history is buried under the region once known as
Muziris. This region is identified as Kodungallur in present day Kerala.

It
was only in late 2015, precisely in December 2015 that I visited the
"Muziris". It was a golden opportunity as I was getting a chance to
literally 'float over' the Muziris region for a day. It was through
Kerala Tourism Department's Hop On Hop Off water circuit tour. It was a
full day tour which coasted us 550 rupees per ticket, which includes
free entry to all the Muziris museums.

So, What is Muziris?

I have never learned much
history in school, but it turned out in my later years that I really
enjoy learning history of the places that I travel to. In short, Muziris
was an ancient Sea port in the western coastal area of Kerala. It was
an active part of a trade route starting from the 600 BC. Sounds boring?
Let me try if I can spice things up...

The story starts more than 2000 years ago. It was ages before the modern
European invasion of India. Ships laden with gold, precious stones,
wine,
copper, brass and frankincense anchored at an ancient sea port at the
western
coast of Kerala - "The Muchiri" or "Muziris" - as the ancient
sailors addressed it - was an important port on the ancient spice route.
This route extended from the Mediterranean Sea on the West to the
Eastern frontiers of
Indonesia.

In no time, I fell in love with the
astonishing history of Muziris. I was partly ashamed and sad that I knew
very little about the history of my very own land - Kerala. As I
learned more, it was like opening a treasure chest and picking out
precious stones and wondering "Oh, wow, I haven't seen it!"

The
history of "Muziris" is as ancient as the history of Kerala. This busy
and
prosperous Sea port was praised in the ancient Tamil poems as "The
greatest of
all sea ports". It is also mentioned in the account of Greek sailors.
Historical
and archaeological evidences show that the spice trade started as early
as
600BC. The Phoenicians were the first to establish the trade. Later it
was
monopolized by the Arab. The Romans obtained the spices from the Arab
traders. Arabs sold it to them at very high price, which prompted the
Romans to find a
direct route to that unknown heaven which produced the spices. Spices
were an
inevitable part of Roman life. They were successful in their quest and
established
the trade connection with Muziris. Along with the trade came all kinds
of people from around the world, they camped near the port and some of
them stayed here permanently. One such community is that of the Jewish
trades, whose ancient synagogues still stand erect in the Muziris areas.

Now, fast forward to 2000 years. "Pattanam" is a small hamlet in
Kodungalloor, located in the Ernakulum district of Kerala. It resides on the
banks of the River Periyar. During the monsoon season, when a layer of earth is
washed away in the rains, the residents of Pattanam noticed rather
curious artifacts emerge from the ground. There were colorful small
stones, pieces of clay ports and sometimes curious looking coins. Little they
knew that they were living right on top of the ancient trade history.

The colourful stones unearthed from Pattanam site. It include the carnelian, beryl stones of Roman times
Photo Courtesy: Kerala Tourism Department

It evoked the interest of the archaeologists in Kerala. The "Pattanam
Excavation Site" was set up. The process of unearthing one of the glorious
ports of the ancient world began. Though it is not confirmed that Pattanam is
the nucleus of Muziris port, the excavation of the site and study of the
surrounding areas has revealed an archaeologically and historically rich belt
of riverside locations.

Now, that is the history of
2000 years condensed in about 400 words! Even though there is no clear
evidence, it is believed that the glory of the Muziris port fell when a
there was a flood that engulfed the entire port town. The Muziris area
is now open to public as a part of the Muziris Heritage Tour by the
Kerala Tourism Department. Kerala archaeology and tourism department has
invested a hug money in the restoration and conservation of this
priceless piece of history. Tourism department also conducts the hop on
hop off boat service in top class air conditioned boats which takes the
following routes.

Our first stop - Paravur Synagogue

It was on a fine
December morning that I look the Muziris Heritage Water
tour. The water tour takes you through a circuit of Jewish synagogues,
the excavation site at Pattanam, ancient European forts and the palaces
of the local rulers of the region.

The first stop in the heritage tour is the “Paravur Synagogue”.
The tickets for the Muziris water tour can also be purchased from small office
near the “Paravur Synagogue”.

Entrance to the Paravur Synagogue - with the Hebrew inscription on the wall

The Synagogue looked so serene in the
morning sun. There were no other visitors at that early time. It could
be easily mistaken for any other old building. But as I stepped inside
the humble front gate of the Synagogue, the first thing that welcomed me
was this stone plate with strange looking letters.

The
guide book about Muziris told me that, there is much more to this plate
that meets the eye. It is the very record of the history of this
Synagogue. “Paravur Synagogue” or "Parur Synagogue" believed to be
built in 1164 AD, however the Hebrew letters on the above stone plate
particularly mentions about a renovation that under the patronage of
David Yakov Castiel, a noble from the Castiel family.

I
was so curious to know about the author of that stone tablet and what
does its meaning. It is believed to be written by a 17th century Hebrew
poet from Cochin — Eliyah ben Moses Adeni and
it was first interpreted by Jewish traveler Joseph Saphir who visited
Kochi in 1860. The English translation goes as follows:(1)

The Hebrew inscription in Paravur synagogue

He who dwelt in Rock and BushMay He dwell for His sake in my houseMay there be light in it for the House of JacobAlas, darkened in my exileSaid David, Jacob's SonRenowned noble seed of CastileAt the completion of the Holy sanctuaryMay it be His will that the Redeemer come.(1)

Through the tall
facade, we entered into a pillared corridor which leads to the interior
of the Synagogue. As I entered into the synagogue, the first thing I
observed was the beautifully carved arch, fixed on to the wall facing
the entrance. It is known as the 'Hekal'. According to the Jewish
religion, 'Hekal' is the sacred place where the 'Thora' is kept.
'Thora', the sacred text is the center of Jewish belief. Most of the
religious ceremonies includes reading of the 'Thora'.

Interior of the Paravur synagogue showing the Hekal and Bimah

A close shot of the Hekal of the Paravur synagogue

A special raised platform can be found in
the center of the Synagogue. It is known as Bimah or Tevah. It is from
this raised platform, the sacred test Thora used to be read. It was such
a distinguished position in the Jewish community to stand on Bimah and
read the Thora. Our guide told that most parts of original Hekal and
Bimah or Paravur syanagogue was taken to Israel when the Jewish
community returned. The current one is an exact replica of the original.
Undoubtedly it is a very recent creation.

The second Bimah of the Paravur synagogue

I walked around slowly through the interiors of this
ancient synagogue. The Kerala Tourism Department has placed many
information panels, which explains the Jewish tradition and customs. The
visit became more meaningful as I came to know the rich history of this
humble looking place. When it comes to historical value, appearances
are always deceptive. I couldn't proceed without appreciating the effort
of the Kerala state government to renovate and preserve these
monuments with such gentleness. An older picture of the Paravur
synagogue would say the same.

Unlike the synagogues from around the world, the ones
in Kerala are customized to incorporate an important aspect of the
Kerala community. It is the women participation in the prayers.
According to old Jewish customs, the women are not allowed to enter the
synagogue. For any public prayer to be in effect, there needs to be a
quorum of 10 adult male members present. This quorum is known as the
"Minyan". Women did not have any role in it.

However,
the Kerala synagogues are tweaked in such a way that, it has a upper
floor. There are stairs leading to this floor directly from outside the
synagogue. Women used these stairs and needed to stand behind a latticed
wooden door known as "Melisha". There is a second Bimah on the first
floor, which is used for reading Torah on special occasions. It is also a
customization of the Kerala synagogues. I couldn't capture it's photo
from Paravur synagogue, hence the one from Chendamangalam synagogue.

Women used to stand behind this wooden lattice called Melisha - from chendamangalam synagogue

As I climbed through the interior stairs of the
synagogue to the first floor, I wondered how time changes everything. I
am climbing through the very steps which was once forbidden for the
women. The Paravur synagogue ceased to be operational a long time ago,
however I silently prayed as I felt that the God would not have left to
Israel.

As I pass through the Melisha - the latticed
wooden door of the first floor, I entered into a wooden corridor that
leads to a small room. This room is known as 'Rabbanim', the place used
for teaching the scriptures. The Jewish rituals and architecture is
heavily influenced by the Kerala tradition.

The entrance to the Rabbanim, on the first floor of the Paravur synagogue

We watched a short video on the first floor. It is
the reading of the ancient "Jewish copper plate" or "Cheppedu". It
contains an edict issued by Kulasekhara Bhaskaravarma who ruled the
Muziris region during 1000CE. It issues special privileges to Joseph
Rabban and his community. It is written in ancient Kerala script known
as "Vattezhuth".A replica of the "Jewish copper plate" is displayed in
the Paravur synagogue.

Replica of the Jewish copper plate - "Cheppedu"

It was such a great experience listening to the
ancient form of Malayalam. Being a Keralalite and a linguaphile, I
could make out a few words. There are only very few in Kerala who knows
to read Vattezhuth. I wished I could learn that!

It was
time for us to bid farewell to the Paravur Synagogue. I got a precious
set of books from the small tourism office in the synagogue. We got
tickets for the Hop-on Hop-off boat trip. It coasted RS 550 each. As we
walked towards the Paravur boat jetty, a handsome boat was waiting to
carry us over the historic waters of Muziris (To Be continued...)

Part 2 - Pallippuram Fort and Manjumatha church

After visiting the Paravur synagogue,
I started walking back to the boat Jetty, which is hardly 300 meters
from the synagogue. The tickets for the Hop-on Hop-off boat service has
to be obtained from the tourism office in the Paravur synagogue
premises. As I walked through the narrow bylines of North Paravur, I
couldn't help but wonder the enormous historical events took place at
this sleepy island villages.

While
walking towards the Jetty one thing strikes instantly - the street is
spotlessly clean. Unfortunately in India, it is a rare sight. The crew
of the Muziris heritage tour was waiting for us and soon the boat
started sailing gently over the small canals flowing towards the Periyar
river. The boat driver was a jovial fellow. He steered the boat and
engaged us in conversations - the tidbits that only a local knows.

As
we proceeded towards the next destination - The Pallippuram fort- our
friendly driver showed us the special enclosures where the prawns are
cultivated, the iconic "cheena valas"- a specific type of fishing nets
and the boats under construction.

We were striking quite a conversation about the
region and in no time the boat was near the Manjumatha church jetty. A
walk of half kilometer from Manjumatha church would lead us to the
first ever European monument in India - The Pallippuram Fort.

As
I stood before the information board at the Pallippuram Fort, I was
wondering how many travelers would appreciate it's immense historical
value. The fort looks quite simple and dilapidated. It has nothing to
boast about visually. However once you learn about the dramatic
incidents took place here during the European invasion of India, it is
hard to ignore this humble fort.

Pallippuram fort - The oldest surviving European monument in India

It is the oldest surviving European
construction in India. Portuguese, soon after landing in Kerala on 1498,
received the permission to build an outpost at the Northern extreme of
Vypeen Island- a place named Pallipuram. This hexagonal shaped out post
was built so that the entrance to the back waters from the North can be
controlled. This military post is also referred to as a "fort" in the
official records. The Pallippuram Fort was constructed in 1503 ( and
some sources say 1507) . It was a major watch tower and was garrisoned
by 20 armed men. Each of the facet of the Pallipuram fort was pierced to
hold a cannon.

The information plate itself is so ancient - Made in 1909!

However the Portuguese couldn't retain the
Pallippuram for long. The Dutch under the governor Van Der Meyden
conquered it with the help of Zamorins of Calicut. It was in 1661. Even
though it looks like the battle between two foreign forces to establish
control, in fact the bitter rivalry between the Calicut and Cochin
rulers caused the seize of Pallipuram fort. Zamorins of Calicut
supported the Dutch while the Cochin rulers backed Portuguese.(1)

The
story of the Pallipuram fort doesn't end there. Almost more than a
century later in 1789, Tippu Sultan from Mysore started a military
campaign to Kerala. His aim was to conquer the Kodungallur and
Pallippuram forts. The King of Travencore Wanji Bala Marthanda Rama
Varma was alarmed. He
sent his first minister Kesava Pillai to
strike a deal with the Dutch to purchase the Pallippuram Fort. In a
transaction amounted 300,000 Surat Rupees, Dutch sold the Pallippuram
and Kodungallur forts to Tranvencore(3). Tipu did attack the Pallipuram
fort but was defeated and was almost killed. Hence from there on, the
Pallippuram Fort remained with the rulers of Travencore, who renovated
and conserved it as a historic relic in 1909.

As I
stood inside that deserted fort, which was once engaged by armed men and
war. I was wondering how many soldiers would fell at the same place
that I stand now. How many would have died and how many would have lost
their dearest dreams fighting as just pawns for the political and trade
agenda of their leaders.

The Hexagonal interior of the ancient Pallippuram Fort

We walked our way back to the
Manjumatha(Our Lady of Snow) boat Jetty. We had a quick stop at the
Manjumatha church compound. It was built by the Portuguese around the
same time as they built the Pallippuram fort. The Portuguese dedicated
this church to Our Lady. The legend says that during the invasion of
Tippu Sultan in 1789, the church premises was covered in snow and Tippu
couldn't proceed with his assault. After this the church was renamed
to Basilica of Our Lady of Snow. In 2007, Manjumatha church celebrated
it's 500th birthday. The old church has a Dutch cemetery attached to it.
The ancient church is not used for adoration, it is under the
archaeology department now.

The ancient church of our Lady - Pallippuram ( Manju matha church)

It was around noon and was getting hotter.
I felt very comfortable going back into the air conditioned boat. As
the Muziris tour is in its beginning days, there is not much of a crowd
in the boat. We started our journey towards the Kottappuram fort. As the
boat gently moved over the waters of the Periyar river's tributaries,
we got a glimpse of the ancient "Kanyan Thomman" church which is
believed to be one of the seven(and half) churches that was founded by
St. Thomas, the disciple of Jesus who arrived in India in AD 52.

Kanyan Thomman Church - one of the first churches that St.Thomas founded

Our driver showed some queer scenes from
the banks of the river, like the below boat, which had been toppled down
while it was being chased by coastal police. According to our driver,
that boat was trying to smuggle silver!

The Silver thief!!

As we move through the river, we can see
the workshops for boats and even big ships. After completing the
construction, they would directly be pushed into the river for a test
drive. However, I think the below boat was not so fortunate to touch
water in it's first attempt, as it toppled down while being pushed in to
the water. Poor guy!

The unfortunate first run!

One of the amazing attractions of the
Muziris Heritage tour is that, we get to see the glimpses of the daily
life on river. There is no traffic jam, no honking queue of vehicles. It
is just you and the boat, gently floating over the calming waters of
the Periyar, owed and amused by the beauty and serenity of it's banks.
The bonus is, you get to see some of the most interesting historical
locations those were once part of Muziris. It is a dream come true for a
lover of history and nature. (to be continued...)

A regular day at the Periyar river.

Part 3 - Kodungallur Fort and Chendamangalam Synagogue

We continued our journey through the Muziris Heritage sites.
We have already covered the Paravur Synagogue and Pallippuram fort. It was
close to noon and was getting hotter each minute. It was a relief to get back
to the air conditioned boat and travel over the calming waters of River Periyar.
Our next destination is the Kodungallur Fort which is also known as the
Kottappuram Fort.

It is an important stop in the Muziris Heritage tour. As we
approached the Kottappuram Jetty, we saw the famous Kottappuram Market on the
left side. It is an ancient market place which came into existence during the
Perumal reign of Kerala. Kottappuram market played a crucial role during the active
times of the Muziris port and also hosted the Portuguese and Dutch traders
during the 15th and 16th century. This market is aptly
included in the Muziris Heritage Project. It is no less than a monument in
itself. As we approached the “Kottappuram Jetty”, I could see the ruined wall
of Kodungallur Fort.

Kodungallur Fort - A view from the River

There was a large crowd hanging around the fort. It was
quite queer that such a large number of people came to visit such a subtle
monument. I was kind of happy to see them, feeling proud that even the local
folk started admiring the historical value of the Muziris Heritage sites.
However my joy was short-lived as I realized that all those people came for a
marriage at a nearby house. Due to space constraints, they were just hanging
around the fort! So we were left with no company and walked towards the
deserted fort.

Ruins of the Kodungallur Fort - Archaeological excavation site

It
would take a while before the guide arrives, so we walked
around the ruins of the Kodungallur fort. Even though it is called a
Fort,
there is not much left of it. There is only a part of a bastion that is
still standing;
reminding the glory of this majestic fort. In midst of the rubble and
ruins,
it is quite difficult to make any sense of the original structure of the
fort. I decided that it is better to wait for the guide and meanwhile I
started
reading a very interesting book by M R Raghava Warrier. It is about the
history
of Kodungallur and Muziris. There is a detailed description about
Kodungallur fort
in the book.

It is only after 30 years building the Pallippuram fort that the
Portuguese procured the permission to build the Kodungallur(Kottappuram) fort.
Their wait was not in vain as the location of the fort was in such a key
position in the River side. Portuguese built the Kodungallur fort in such a way
that most of its bastions protrude towards the water. It enabled them to
closely watch all the boats that pass from the interior villages towards the
sea. It was impossible for any movements in the water without being noticed by
the patrol.

The last standing bastion of the Kodungallur Fort - Photo: Kerala Tourism Department

The Kodungallur Fort was
huge and strong which was built using stone and mud. It was protected by
seven bastions, tall perimeter walls and a huge trench. However, the Portuguese
couldn’t own the Kodungallur Fort for long time. In 1660, the Dutch general Ryklof
van Goens tried to capture the Pallippuram Fort and Kodungallur Fort. The Dutch
could capture the Pallippuram fort, however they faced severe counter attack by
Portuguese at the Kodungallur Fort. However, after 2 years General van Goens again attacked the Kodungallur fort.
This time he had the Zamorin of Calicut and King of Cranganore as Dutch ally.
However the King of Cochin supported the Portuguese and send his nephew
Godavarma and 400 Nair soldier for the assistance of Portuguese troops. The war
between the Dutch and Portuguse ensued. There was a lot of bloodshed. A
detailed description of this war is given by a dutch captain named Nieuhoff. According to him
the war scene was so horrific - the dead bodies of the Nair soldiers floated
all over the river and the entire river turned blood red.

The old information panel at Kodungallur Fort

It was an extremely lucky day for us. Mithun – an archaeology
expert who is a part of the Muziris excavation at Kottappuram was the guide we
were waiting for. As he started explaining the history of Muziris and the
Kottappuram Fort, our exhaustion was alleviated. We soon started exploring
the fort with new found enthusiasm and meaning. After the war in 1662 Dutch
conquered the Kottappuram fort. The first thing they did was to destroy the Portuguese
fort to the last stone. The Dutch soon started building a greater fort on top
of the ruins of the old Portuguese fort. So the remnants of the Fort that we see
today at Kottappuram are actually that of the Dutch fort, not the Portuguese
one. It was news for me. I was kind of proud that I had done my homework before
coming to this fort, however I was humbled by the amount of history that was
being unveiled .

Interior of the Kodungallur Fort - Photo: Kerala Tourism Department

Mithun started explaining about the archaeological
excavations at the Kodungallur fort. Before they started the excavations, this
area looked like a hill. The Fort was completely buried under the sediments worth many
centuries. It was even difficult to imagine such a fort existed at this place.
The excavation team had to remove a huge amount of earth before they could
uncover the fort. It was quite a challenging task, as one need to be extremely
careful while digging lest they might damage some priceless historic artifacts.
As they started the excavation, the walls of the Dutch fort started emerging.

The research team found many Dutch artifacts including the wine pitchers
as they started digging deep. When they went further down, they found the
foundations of the older Portuguese fort. Mithun told us that the Dutch used
some parts of the Portuguese foundation for their new fort. There is also a
queer artifact on display at the Kottappuram Fort. It is the skeleton of a Portuguese
man who was buried inside the fort. Detailed
studies have revealed the burial would have happened sometime in the fourteenth
century.

Interior of the Kodungallur Fort

It was with great enthusiasm that Mithun explained us about
the excavations as part of the Muziris Heritage Project. However he did not fail to ensure that we were not
getting bored as he kept on explaining about the smallest details of the fort.
We assured him that this was the best ever history lecture we heard in our
lives. Even though I have learned history in my school days, I have to admit
that I used to doze off in the class. It is quite a different feeling, learning
history as you see, touch and feel it. As we were about to leave the
fort , Mithun mentioned about something that would evoke our interest. He told
us about a piece of ancient porcelain vessel that he spotted in the fort a few
days back. He asked if we are interested in seeing it. I jumped in at this
great opportunity.

The first excavation effort!

After searching for 5 minutes we found a small piece of this
vessel protruding out of the earth near a fort wall. We started carefully
remove the earth and the ancient artifact started revealing itself in all
itsglory. It was my first ever archaeological
excavation and I would never forget those precious moments of my life!

The Dutch porcelain excavated !

We knew we
cannot thank Mithun enough for his guidance which
made our Muziris trip worthwhile. As we started our journey towards
the next destination – The Kottayil Kovilakam, I had a last glance at
the
Kottappuram fort, which stands holding the memories of over 500 years. I
wish more people start appreciating its historical value once the
Muziris Heritage project gains popularity.

Chendamangalam Synagogue

We had a lovely lunch and a short rest at the restaurant
near the Kottayil Kovilakam jetty. Kottayil Kovilakam was the headquarters of
the “Villarvattom Swaroopam” – a local ruling family of the region. “Kovilakam”
in Malayalam indicate a traditional ancestral house which usually has multiple
stories and numerous rooms housing a huge joint family. Kottayil kovilakam
region is the epitome of religious harmony as an ancient Krishna temple; a
synagogue, a Christian church and a mosque co-exist within the radius of 1km. Itwas
not a coincidence that various religious groups found a place in here. It was
the wish of a broad minded ruler of “Villarvattom Swaroopam”. His Highness
wanted all kinds of people from all religions should co-exist harmoniously in
his land.

I thought I would get to see a huge
ancestral house at Kottayil Kovilakam, as name of this place suggests. However there is
no “Kovilakam” to see here. The main attraction of the Kottayil Kovilakam is
the Chendamangalam synagogue. This synagogue is located at a short distance
from the boat jetty. Chendamangalam synagogue was founded in 1420 and later renovated in the 15th
century. It is located at the farthest end of a small street which was known as
the “Jewish street” in olden days. We walked quickly towards the Synagogue so
as to escape from the blazing sun.

In front of the Chendamangalam synagogue
there is a stone tablet with Hebrew words on it. As we saw in the Paravur synagogue,
It is not a historical description. It is the tombstone of “Sara Beth Israel” –
a Jewish lady who said to be cremated in 1269.As the Jewish community migrated to Kerala, they brought this tomb stone
along with them and installed in front of the Chendamangalam synagogue. She
might be a very important person!

The memorial stone of Sara Beth Israel

We entered into the Synagogue. Unlike the Parvur synagogue,
the Hekkal of Chendamangalam Synagogue is much colourful and ancient. The lower
parts of the Hekkal is original from the days when the synagogue was built.
However the top portions have undergone slight renovations. There are also huge
chandeliers hanging from the roof of the synagogue. Most of them have become
dull due to centuries of dust and usage.

Colorful Hekkal of CHendamangalam Synagogue

There was another group of foreign
tourists inside the synagogue, among them only one knew English. Their guide is
explaining about the synagogue to that lady who knew English and she was then
translating to the entire group. It was such a lovely sight that people take so
much interest and effort to understand the monuments in my country!

The colorful ceiling of the Chendamangalam Synagogue

Like the Paravur synagogue, the Chendamangalam synagogue
also has two Bimahs. One is on the ground floor and other is on the first
floor. The one on the first floor is supported by beautifully carved wooden
pillars. This synagogue was built by wealthy Jewish business community and they
said to have made it in resemblance of the temple of Solomon in mount Zion in Israel.

Two Bimahs of the Chendamangalam Synagogue

We climbed onto the first floor of the synagogue. We could
see the Melisha and Rabbanim in the first floor. In the first part of the
Muziris heritage tour – I have described in detail about these parts of a
traditional synagogue. Please read it here.

View of the Hekkal through Melisha

As a part of the Muziris Heritage Project, this synagogue is
set as a Jewish life style museum. The information panels inside the synagogue
museum provide adequate information about Jewish lifestyle like food, language,
ensembles, cultural and religious rituals. As you walk around the synagogue
reading these information panels, you get a sense that you spend a day with a
Jewish family.

We exited the synagogue through the staircase on the first
floor. Traditionally these stairs were used by women to enter directly into the
first floor through the back side of the synagogue. In my account of the
Muziris water tour to Paravur synagogue, I have mentioned about it.

The staircase used by women to enter synagogue

The street in front of the Synagogue is called the Jewish
street. There are a few traditional Jewish houses on this street. However they
look very similar to Kerala houses, except for the stone lamp in front of the
house as well as the special slanting construction on the sides of the steps
leading into the house.

The Jews in Kerala had blended very well with the culture
and lifestyle in Kerala. Even though they lived in constant hope of returning
to Israel, they did not contempt the land which gave them refuge and shelter.
Instead they lived to the fullest on this foreign land, enriching it’s culture.
Most of the Jews have returned to Israel. However many of their descendants
still visit these places to pay homage to their ancestors who lived and died on
this land. I remember a guide telling me this – Many of them find
it emotionally overwhelming to visit the Kerala synagogues as they remind them
about their great grandparents.

We walked our way uphill towards the Krishna temple which is
located around 400 meters from the synagogue. Unfortunately the temple was
closed as it was afternoon time. We had a distant view of this ancient temple
and it was time for us to head towards the next destination. The next
destination is Paliyam Kovilakam and Nalukettu. We walked briskly towards the
Kottayil Kovilakam boat jetty.

Entrance of the Srikrishna Swamy temple

(1) From the book "The Cochin Jewish Community, Impressions from a Mission to India" (1966) by Aaron Grenbaum Book here