“ This I sell for Rs250/=. But you pay what you desire sir . We are grateful to Pandits .I shall not forget. A kashmiri Pandit helped my husband in his employment. We would call him Poshkar Nath . . I do not know his present whereabouts . Wherever he may be , our wish is that he and his family be happy . I shall only take Rs100/= for this bundle of lotus stems .Take this special Haak. Take it for my Bhabi . It shall be quite tasty after cooking. I shall accept no money for it. May god keep you healthy . May god bless all”

" You need not worry . This type of growth is curative . Even if the Biopsy report shows it as Edeno carcinoma , she can happily live for many many years to come. She has no secondary growth any where as far as we know. We checked her liver in particular though it was pulpy , it had no evidence of Metastasis. . Keep her under observation of Dr Jalali . I have not seen any attendent so faithful and concerned for his patient as all of you . That way she is lucky . I wish her fast recovery . Keep meeting ".

That is what Dr Farooq Mirza told me when i went to see him in his room in SMHS hospital Srinagar on the day of discharge of my mother .He was in Dr Jalali's team that had operated upon my mother in SMHS Hospital Srinagar in 1983 for a malignant growth in Sigmoid colon . She lived trouble free life till 1996 after that perfect surgery done by Dr B K Jalali even when the Biopsy report revealed the growth as Edeno Carcinoma .What a competent surgeon Dr Jalali had been at that point of time in kashmir .?What a great and efficient support Dr Farooq Mirza had been providing to all patients in Dr Jalali's ward at that point of time? I never forgot these two great men. I was also impressed by the mannerism and efficiency of young doctor Mirza who was a fantastic cricket Player as well , representing J&K state in Ranji Trophy.If i remember correctly , Dr Farooq Mirza was the first cricketer from kashmir to score a century in Ranji Trophy.Who does not remember his lovely catch to dismiss Kim Hughes in the match Australia v/s North Zone in 1978. His style and dash could convince any person that he was a true sportsman . So was Mushtaq Mirza from this family. Mushtaq was a leg spinner with a style resembling Chandershekhar.The eldest amongst Mirza brothers namely Mr Mohi Ud din Mirza ( Carpet Exporter )too was a great cricket player who represented J&K State In Ranji Trophy . He was a gifted all rounder . In fact cricket ran through the blood of Mirza brothers. They were cool , friendly and always full of warmth .Wherever they are, i wish them happiness and good luck .

Like Mirza Brothers , Kashmir produced many outstanding players of the game . We had Abdul Rauf the tall punjabi speaking player from srinagar who was a medium fast bowler in addition to being an outstanding batsman . He once scored 95 runs against Delhi team in a Ranji Trophy match played in srinagar, hitting Bishen singh Bedi several times across the boundary . We loved to see his game . We also had a fast bowler in the team known as Abdul Qayoom ( Nick Name Qayoom Channa ) . He was a terrific fast bowler. He broke the middle wicket of Akash lal once with his superb bowling . I do not know where Raza brothers are at present . We had Assad Raza and the handsome Ali Raza plying for the J&K team..We also had a player known as Khursheed Drabu . He was the fastest runner between the wickets . He was always smiling and quick. I came to know from a friend that Drabu sahib had migrated to UK where he rose to become senior immigration Judge .we would love to see the stylish Jammu Batsman Brijender singh or Mehboob Iqbal or the handsome Pervaiz Quireshi playing for the state in Ranji Trophy . Then we also had Girdhari Tiku and Sant singh playing for the state team in several Ranji Trophy matches . I would like to make mention of one jawahir lal ( Nick name Jawa Billoo )who too played in Ranji Trophy . He would come down to the centre of the pitch to hit the ball. He would be pestered by crowds who would cry " Jaw lal Four Traav "meaning Jawhir hit a four . And lo ! jawahir would listen and get out . There were many other players like Gulrez , Talat , Jogi and Bushan lal Handoo etc.

I have mentioned some names which i recollect . There were many more who contributed to development of cricket in kashmir . Most of them had learnt the game in lanes and bylanes of the city . Some would come to Idd Gah or pologround or Zind Shah Masjid ground Rainawari on sundays to learn the game . Some would go to SP college or Amar Singh College to play Mohalla matches . Some would make it on the road with a cheap bat and wooden Ball known locally as Beera .Rubber hand protection gloves , leg guards or Head helmets were nowhere to be seen in those days. only some boys from well to do families played with leather balls .Beera was heavy and hard but cheap and Popular. It could injure your body . It gave lot of pain to fingers during fielding . I saw one or two accidents taking place with Beera Hits in Polo ground each Sunday where Mohalla teams from Amira Kadal , Badyar , Habba kadal ,Zaindar Mohalla or Sathu Bar Bar Shah would go to play cricket . Thus Poverty gave its pain in cricket as well .

This cricket fever still continues to be in Kashmir .Young Boys dressed in white cricket dress now go to Polo ground or Ram Munshi Bagh grounds or Iddgah on sundays to play cricket. Yes the Beera is nowhere to be seen . They carry the leg guards , Hand gloves , Wooden wickets and Sunshade caps . These play grounds are full on sundays .O! That Ram Munshi bagh Ground near Amar singh Club opposite Burn Hall School that saw West indies team playing a test match against India in 1983 is full with cricket players during sundays .Many clubs ,Well developed Bat industry and good number of sport goods selling shops make you to believe that cricket is the game of choice for kashmiris at present . That is the reason that we have been able to produce players like Abid Nabi , Arshad Bhatt, Sameer Ali and Vimarsh kaw for the Ranji squad . God keep this fever on. Let cricket be always in the air .

Saturday, September 29, 2012

In Kashmir , Every butcher keeps specially cut log of wood as a working tool in his shop . This working tool is placed ideally just below the hanging Flesh and close to the sitting place of the butcher . Once the butcher chops some flesh for his buyer, he places it on this log for cutting the same to small pieces . The average size of the piece depends on the type of dish to be prepared from it . If it is Roganjosh , the pieces are bigger , fleshy with Bones . If it is Yakhani , the pieces are medium sized preferably from ribs with fatty content . For keema or minced meat balls , the boneless pieces are beaten fine on this log with a heavy knife called “ Shraakh” in kashmiri .

I never knew where from these logs came . Sometimes the butchers would get them from timber sellers on order . Sometimes the Butchers would arrange these logs themselves .Now due to increase in the consumption of mutton , people have started purchasing these “ Takhta Mondhurs ” from market to be used in their homes . I saw this stuff on sale in Sunday market of Kashmir in May 2012.

said the Foot Path Trader to Sukhdev Chib my friend.
“ Why Not buy it sir ? Don’t worry . I shall do concession in rate .Use it for mincing mutton . You can even cut a chicken to pieces over it . Shall Prove quite useful in your home .Keep it as a gift from Kashmir . Don’t pay . .Kashmiri Pandits too buy it . Ask your friend . I am telling the truth . Use it for making Mutton Keema.( Mutchh ). This is from a chinar Tree . It also comes from an Apricot Tree. In Kashmir we call it Takhtaa Mondhur . Butchers use it. You shall remember me . Pick it up ”

Today I shall say something about the poplars ( FREST ) of kashmir ........With the widening of srinagar Baramulla road in progress , a large number of these majestic trees have been cut down. They are growing wildly on Srinagar Anantnag Road . The Poplars on Anantnag road present many green tunnels to the joy of a driver on this route. Regular plantation is also being done .Poplars on the Boulevard also look majestic. The poplars in Partap Park Amira Kadal add grace to the garden and the surrounding area.. During spring time , these poplars keep shedding lot of cotton like material all over . It is in your clothes , in your room , in your nostrils and in the air that on breathes. We used to call it FREST PHUMB in our childhood. I always got fever and bad cold with these flying cotton . I would be advised to put a hanker chief on my mouth and Nose .

In our school Pandit Dina Nath Handoo our Head master would beat us with a fresh stick cut from a poplar in the school . POPLARS demand lot of water as such they grow easily near river or canal banks or near what we call DEMB . Poplar wood is not used for Building construction activity but has a commercial use in making Fruit Boxes and Ply Board .

Many old movies would have shots of Tonga rides by the actors on Baramulla srinagar road lined with Poplars on both sides. Tongas are no where to be seen now in srinagar . Yes some tongas still ply in Baramulla Town area. In Pampore we have a locality dedicated to Poplars called FRESTBAL. Yes Padampore or pampore of Lalla Ded. So long so much for the poplars of Kashmir. I end this write up with a poem POPLAR written by noted Kurdish poet Sherko Bekas .

( Poplar )

A poplar asked:
Why has this weeping willow immersed its head in the lap
of this lake
and no longer raises it?
The wave replied:
It always stood upright.
A lark used to come
and settle down on it
and whisper to it
what was happening
on the other side of the lake.
One evening the lark
had joyful news:
but while alighting
an eagle swooped and attacked it.
it tumbled down into the water,
and the weeping willow stooped
to save it.
But its hand could not reach far below
and the lark drowned.
Ever since, the tree's crown
has been King in the lap of the lake,
searching for the bird.
( Sherko Bekas )

Friday, September 28, 2012

" Over the Vitasta , this king had the great bridge constructed and only since that time ----------------"

(Taranga III verse 354 .)

This is how Kalhana refers to the first Boat Bridge in 6th century AD built by King Pravarsena II of Gonanda dynasty at some distance from Maksikaswamin ( Present day Maisuma ) .

I have uploaded views some bridges over river Jhelum in srinagar city .Once you enter srinagar city the first bridge across Jhelun is the Zero bridge . Presently It is closed for the vehicular traffic . The wooden structure and base is still intact. Near by another bridge has come up to go to Rajbagh and other adjoining localities. This bridge has its landing near TRC chowk or Radio Kashmir building . The bridge is known as Abdullah bridge .

Thereafter a new walkway has come up to cross river jhelum near Sheikh Bagh Amira kadal for going to lal Mandi area . Previously ,We had to use a shikara to cross river jhelum over here . After this the old Amirakadal bridge has since been dismantled . We have a new RCC bridge over river Jhelum to go to Hari Singh high street from Lal Chowk. Next to it the old Budshah bridge has also been dismantled and a new RCC Bridge is since operational to reach Secretariat and Batmaloo area . Thereafter the Old Habba kadal bridge is still functional but a new RCC bridge has also come up near by and it joins Tankipora and Kral Khudd localities .

( Old habba kadal bridge )

Down below a new RCC bridge has come up at Fateh Kadal and the same is since functional. Therafter another new RCC bridge has come up at Zaina Kadal . The old Zainakadal bridge is also functional. Then down below a new RCC bridge has come up at Ali kadal . The old Ali kadal has since been dismantled as it was burnt in militancy related violence .Thereafter lies the new RCC bridge known as Nawa kadal . Old Nawa kadal bridge was again burnt in a militancy related violence .Then Down below lies Safa Kadal and Chatta kadal . I have not uploaded views of Safa kadal , Nawa kadal and Chatta kadal .All other bridges have been uploaded in Seriatim from top to bottom.

Insofar old bridges are concerned , I may add that Ali Kadal was built by Sultan Ali Shah in 1415 AD. Zaina kadal was built by Sultan Zain ul Abdin in 1427 AD .Fateh Kadal was built by sultan Fateh Shah in 1500AD. Other four bridges namely Habba kadal , Nawa kadal , Safa kadal and Amira kadal were built by Sultan Habib Shah , Noor ud din Khan Bamzei , Saif ud din Khan and Amir Ud din Khan Jawan Sher in 1573 AD, 1666AD , 1671AD and 1774 AD respectively .In past , Srinagar used to be called as a city of seven bridges .

I end this post with a mini poem of noted kurdish poet sherko Bekas ....

Monday, September 24, 2012

PHOTOGRAPHS BY AUTAR MOTA
( PHOTO NOS 1 AND 2 ARE THE RUINS OF AWANTIOPRA TEMPLES , PHOTO 3 IS RIVER VITASTA NEAR PAMPORE TOWN, PHOTO 4 IS VITASTA RIVER AT SOPORE AND PHOTO 5 IS THE EXACT SPOT OF CONFLUENCE OF VITASTA AND SINDHU STREAM NEAR SHADIPORA KASHMIR. )

ALI MOHD LONE AND SUYYA

( Late Ali Mohd Lone )

( At Leningrad Russia with A delegation of writers from India )

( With M F Hussain outside India Coffee House Srinagar )

Ali Mohd lone was a skilled craftsman of Radio plays . Very impressive dramas with emotions , romance and idealism . Some of his plays that i remember are ; Agar Gaash Soaree ( If lights go out ) Aadam Havaa Taa Iblees ( Adam , Hawa and Iblees ), Kaaend Sehraav Taa vajood ( Thorns , Desert and existence ), Viz Chhaa Saaen ( This moment Is ours ) , Taqdeer saaz ( Maker of our fate ) Myaani Jigreikk daadei Voathh ( Arise o the pain Of my heart ) and Suyya . etc etc . Out of all these plays and many other Plays that Ali Mohd lone wrote , Suyya alone can put the playwright in a category of master playwright . Inspite of many handicaps like lack of working knowledge of Sanskrit language ( that opens doors of the Old and classical literature of the country) , the playwright has really laboured hard to create this master piece . For this drama , the playwright has mainly relied on Stein’s English Translation of Kalhana’s Rajtarangini . Some characters have been mentioned by Kalhana while others have been created by the playwright to fill up various loose ends in creating the Impressive character of SUYYA. He wrote the play in 1964. Characters created by Ali Mohd lone for this play are as under

1 Suyya

2 King Awantivarman

3 Chandaal

4 Chandaalini

5 Chanderkaanta

6 Pandit

5 Minister

6 Jaideva

These Characters are supported by some women, Brahmins , Labourers ,girls , boys , Drum beater and some courtiers of King Awantivarman. KALHANA informs us that Suyya is born in the family of Chandaals . He is not believed when he says that he shall stop the havoc of floods in Vitasta river .Finally King Awantivarman takes a chance and Suyya does the impossible.

Awantipora was once capital of King Awantivarman (855-883 A D) who laid foundation of this city during his reign. A town still exists in the name of Awantivarman as Awantipora. The town has two important monuments In the shape of Ruins of Two Majestic Temple complexes built by AWANTIVARMAN which at present stand as an attraction for the visitors/tourists . Though not equal in size to Lalitadittya 's structures especially the SUN TEMPLE OF MARTAND PLATEAU , yet they rank among the most imposing monuments of ancient Kashmir architecture.The reign of this king is considered as the peaceful period in the history of kashmir.With the help of Suyya a celebrated Engineer in his Kingdom , Awantivarman removed the recurrent havoc in kashmir caused due to Floods in Jhelum by building Bunds and an extensive Drainage system changing the very course of River near Baramulla Town . He also built Flood Channels in Srinagar City. As per Kalhana ( Taranga V 125 ) he died at the mountain of Tripuresvara ( Modern Triphar ) . He did not indulge much in territorial conquests but laid the foundation of a very good adminstration and governance .

“ On the Bank of Vitasta where she emerges from the waters of the MahaPadma , he Founded a town comparable to the Paradise to bear his own name.”

(Fifth Taranga Canto 118 Rajtaringini of Kalhana )

This is how Kalhana describes the birth of Sopore, the town founded by Suyya on the banks of vitasta where it emerges out from Wular ( MahaPadma ) Lake . This lake finds mention repeatedly in Taranga Fifth of Rajtaringini. Approximately 1100 years ago Suyya ensured that the bed of the river is lower than the bed of wular lake at the place where it emerges out from this lake .That made the water to rush out else the lake would have engulfed entire area upto Manasbal and the havoc of floods in Vitasta would have made life miserable for the entire population of valley.

Suyyapore or present day Sopore was founded (in later part of 9th centuary ) by SUYYA the engineer in the court of king Avantivarman (855-883 AD) after he dredged VITASTA near Baramulla to save Kashmir from the fury of reccurring floods.
As per Asian Agri. History Vol.13 , Sindh stream used to meet Vitasta atTrigam but it was SUYYA who shifted the confluence point of Vtasta and Sindh stream to present day Shadipora ( Prayaag ) and also regulated the flow of Vitasta to wular lake . Suyya had thus many villages reclaimed near Trigam area which would otherwise always remain inundated due to floods . Paddy cultivation was extensively undertaken in these large tracts of reclaimed land . Due to Suyya 's extensive irrigation system , one kharwar of rice came down from 200 dinnars to 36 dinnars in the reign of Avantivarman.

There is an interesting story narrated by kalhana in Rajtaringini as to how SUYYA dredged the river at many points.He took pots full of gold coins in boats and threw them into Vitasta waters at Present day Khannabal , Shadipora , Baramullah and at all places where its choked currents overflowed its banks . People jumped into the river at all places and dug its bed for months to find the coins . Many boulders and heaps of silt were thrown on the banks of the river . Through this process he ensured the dredging of the river.
( Autar Mota )
september 24 , 2012... Time 11.25 PM . Good Night CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.

Sunday, September 23, 2012

“This is TCHEND Validhi TAASS or you can say TCHEOT validhi LAWAAS.You can also say BEANZ Validhi MASS .”

“He is a funny man Mr Outtar . What does he say in Kashmiri ”

“ Nothing special. He is defining this old Amira kadal bridge in relation to the newly constructed bridge . Tseot means the bread sold by kashmiri Bakers .Lawaas is a bigger sized bread which is thinner .Tsend is a mild slap while Taass means a forceful Punch. Beanz and Mass mean mother and Daughter .The word Validhi means “ son of or defines parentage ” . I believe you get what he says.” I clarified to John Clarke guest of my friend Manzoor and a carpet buyer from USA .

“Mister i make simple for you . In English what Farangi understand is FAIL validhi PASS ” said Mr Manzoor to John Clarke his guest . John and Manzoor were standing on old Amirakadal Bridge and looking at the New Bridge. Manzoor was a Kashmir Art trader and owner of a house Boat . That is how kashmiris impressed even Americans or Europeans with their crisp humour .

John Clarke would come to the bank to encash Thomas Cook Traveller cheques and one day Manzoor made a request to accompany them to Sri Partap Museum Lal Mandi . Since John demanded to go on foot and move through Bazaars , we took a longer route . Right from lal Chowk ,Manzoor would gossip and tell funny stories to John who would simply keep smiling and nodding . One simpleton and the other just playing pranks .

I remember that when the new Amirakadal bridge was thrown open for traffic , the old bridge near by was not demolished .(The remains of the old bridge still exist side by side to the new bridge in the photograph uploaded by me . This photo was taken in Dec2009.The second photograph uploaded is the new foot bridge to connect lal Mandi area with lal Chowk ).In fact a foot path market had cropped up on the old abandoned bridge .This market had left little space for the pedestrian traffic . You had to push your way from a crowd of ramshackle shops and onlooking buyers . Traders selling everything from garment Buttons to cheap plastic wares. You could buy dry fruits , shoes, cheap crockery ,Ready made garments and old clothes ( called Bangla Desh in Local parlance ). So clever were the sellers that they made people to try these old and new ready made garments on the road to the curious gaze of crowds . You could buy cheap transistor sets , tape recorders ( Called Type Record in local Parlance ). The market used to be the busiest centre for purchase of cheap and duplicate variety of goods .You could buy a BOLA shoe with word BOLA made to look like BATA .One could also enjoy a street magician show . The Saande Ka Teil ( Lizard Oil ) seller made tall claims about his product. The Pathan selling Josh e Mardaana ( sold as Tonic for Male Fertility ) made you to taste the tonic prepared in your presence from crushed dry fruits fried in Desi Ghee .The loud music at the cheap cassettes shop or the Parrot seller with his caged birds tempted you for a look. The cheap perfume seller , the footpath Jyotishi ( Fortune Teller ) holding hand of an ignorant villager or an Army soldier and telling him what future lay in store for him could also attract you . The shabby looking Sardar ji or the footpath Dentist grabbing jaw of a poor villager with dirty forceps could be offending at times . The knife sharpener with his bicycle producing sparks .With Kailash Cafeteria nearby where Kashmiri Pandits would be relishing Kebabs and kapoor Vaishno Bhojnalaya across Jhelum or Prem Ji street nearby where fresh and delicious Bread was sold , the old bridge had its special presence in the area .The lane near the old bridge led you to the Lal Ded Hospital. Passing through this area we went to SP Museum Lal Mandi.

Names of some shops in Srinagar also depicted inherent kashmiri humour .We had many shops with funny and catchy names.A shop in Dal Gate area had following Board hung at its entrance .

“MANAA THE LOVELY ART OF LOVELY LAND”

. One prominent shop of a Kashmiri Handicrafts dealer was run under the name and style

“SUBHANA THE WORST ”

This business House had a competing shop run under the name and style:

“SUBHANA THE BEST ”

There used to another shop of a kashmiri art trader run under the name and style

“ SAME SAME BUT DIFFERRENT ”.

These names made you to laugh at times . But then this was also a marketing technique which certainly paid its dividends . Some business houses had serious names like

“ SUFFERRING MOSES ”

To me humour appears to be a part of kashmiri living . .But the nicknaming hobby with kashmiris is centuries old . Even most of the castes in kashmir are based on nicknames only. Teasing to the point of making a person go wild with rage is locally known as GARMAAVUNN. GARMAAVUN used to be a favourite entertainment with kashmiris I remember children in Rainawari walking behind a kashmiri Pandit Jia Lal By name and cryin

“JIA LAL MARANUSS CHHUYEE KAMIYEE KAAL”

( Jial lal You are to die shortly ) .

Girls or women were also not spared. A simple girl in Rainawari was named GANDAA TSOOR( Onion Thief ).Another women from Rainawari named Rupaawati would be called

RUPAWATI TAAEN ROAZ ATTI

( Rupawati . Hold on at that place only. )

I have heard many ladies ( Both Pandits and Muslims in our Mohalla ) saying :

( Has this Treyaa ( Triloki Nath Pandit ) the Thief opened his shop ? I needed to visit him to set my kerosene stove right .)

Another kashmiri Pandit in Rainawri was nick named Dhe Nazar ( Just have a look ). When he walked children would cry Dhe Nazar forcing him actually to look around so that every one would just giggle and enjoy.A Halwai shop in Rainawari had a Pandit helper who was nicknamed ALLA YAKHANI ( Gourd cooked in curd ) ,a popular dish in Pandit Households. This man would go Berserk with rage when any person would cry ALLA YAKHANI behind his back . He would pass on abuses to one and all in a very loud tone and run after boys to thrash any one so caught by him. Shopkeepers in Jogi lanker first provoked boys to tease this helper and later enjoyed this Drama silently .We had persons with nick names like Bekal Batta( foolish pandit ) , Pachee Russ ( Soup from leg portion of a sheep ), Gandaa Oluvv ( Onions and Potatoes ), Amma Babur, Fashionee Fotedaar, Maama koll, Nathaa Ditt, Tikalee,Kokker Tsoor , Yaavv Kuth ,Ramzaan Londde , Tuwaan Bachaa ,Tsattaa Russ , Tikka waavij ,Curfew Bachaa and Miskeen Buudd in Rainawari . In college i remember some very respectable and senior professors being nicknamed as Nissar Gotta , Machhi Khan ,Indira Gandhi , Theek Ayaa ji and Lung Taas . Quite often I felt ashamed at these nicknames for our teachers .

There used to be a Drill Master in Hari Singh High school Rainawari Mohd sidiq by name . Everybody called him Sidd Poraath( Sidd Parantha ).Another Band master was called Nerra Band( Niraan Jan Nath ) by boys in DAV school.In Hindu high school Sheetal Nath Bar Bar Shah, you had a drill master Janki Nath by name who was nicknamed as Jana Military . Shri Mohd Yusuf who joined as Principal of S P college Srinagar a couple of years after we left would be called Yusuf Jandhagor( Yousuf the Rags seller ) . Shri Mohd yusuf was a well read teacher and author of some books as well. Kashmiris did not spare their popular leaders . I remember a Ladishah ( a satirical composition ) sung by kashmiris nicknaming Sheikh Mohd Abdullah , Bakshi Ghulam Mohd and Mirza afzal Beigh .The Ladeeshah possibly composed around 1953 unfolded some events in a satirical manner conveying essentially :
( If Tall Man or Sheikh Mohd Abdullah acted unwisely , what happened to Mirza Afzal Beigh . Look how Bakshi Ghulam Mohd grabbed the opportunity and sat on the throne .)

Sh.Shamas Ud Din who became Prime Minister( Now called CM ) after Bakshi Ghulam Mohd was removed under Kamraj Plan was nick named as Shamma Kath ( Shamma the Sheep ) by Kashmiris . Late D P Dhar was called D P Whiskey. I have heard many kashmiris calling Sheikh Mohd Abdullah as Oluvv Bub ( Potato father ). A slogan was created by kashmiris to suit popular sentiment during Peak popularity of Sheikh Mohd Abdullah . The slogan had inherent satire and humour :

ALLA KAREGAA WANGUNN KAREGAA BUB KAREGAA

( Whatever Sheikh Mohd abdullah shall do let him do for kashmir .
Even if he makes Brinjals or gourds , let him make it .)
In early seventies i heard some people raising a satirical and humour packed slogan

YEH MULK NAKHUSS TULUKH
PONDUSS HEUTUKH DABALUSS KUNUKH
( This country has been carried on shoulders ,
Bought for a pound , It has been sold for a Penny. )

Kashmiris greet each other with a popular line

VAARAI CHHUKH SAA
( Are you fine dear ?)
Through a song they even made fun of this popular sentiment .

BHAIBEE PATHER BEH
GARAM GARAM BATTA KHEH
BAA NAI PATTA LAARAI
AHAAN BEE VAARAI
VAARAI CHUKH BEE VAARAI
( Bhabi sit down,
Have hot rice
I shall not follow you?
Are you fine .
O Yes I am fine )
Shri Ghulam Mohd shah or Gul Shah as he was popularly known when he became chief minister of J & K came to be known as GUL CURFEW in Kashmir for repeated imposition of curfews.

I would often hear the cries of the CHANNA ( Roasted Kabuli Gram ) seller on the footpath outside our bank

CHANNA HEY CHANNA HEY
PAANAI IWAAN KHEINN HAY
BELL BOTTOM CHANNA HEY
( Buy Channa Buy Channa .
It goes down the gullet without effort.
Buy this bell bottomed Channa)
We would quite often walk to our college from Rainawari. . Quite often near Sathu Bar Bar Shah, my friend Kuldeep Machama would start his trick. He would make a poor face and request every man riding a bicycle and rushing towards Lal chowk

"BAA CHHUSS BEMAAR
ME TULAKH NAA COLLEGE TAAM
KHODAA SAAB SOZEE HAJUSS."
( I am sick . can you pick me upto my college .
Surely with God's grace you shall perform Hajj )
Quite often the drama brought results in the shape of a free ride upto S P College . Whenever he failed to impress, he would cry at the back of the speeding bicyclist;

BEMMARUSS FOOTRUTH DIL

TCHE KHODAA SOZUUN JUDGUSS

( You have broken the heart of a sick man
Let god send you before a Judge )

Enormous popularity of some plays to quote

HERO MACHAMA, SHABRANG and HAZAAR DASTAAN on Radio or Television substantiates my argument that Kashmiris and Humour are inseparable.And often this humour exceeded its limits also and turned to sheer lampooning. But then Humour does not Necessarily imply that the person is actually happy within .Urdu poet Bashir Badr comes to my rescue for this argument.

Saturday, September 22, 2012

I love the picturesque Sindh vally in kashmir. Sindh stream originates from upper reaches of Drass area and flows down to join river Vitasta ( Jhelum ) at Prayag or shadipora. The lofty snow clad mountain peaks , Alpine forests and grasslands (frequented by Gujjars and Bakerwals )are just bewitching and serene. At one end ,this valley happens to be a gateway to LADAKH or the land of LAMAS . The other end touches Sumbal near vitasta . Remains of Anderkot fort are just 2 kms away from village sumbal. Yes Anderkot that happened to be the capital of king Jayapida grandson of king lalitaditya . Queen Kota committed suicide( in 14th centuary ) inside this fort only .

The ancient shrine of Kheer Bhawani at village Tulamula lies in this area only.So does the Jamia Mosque of Dodderhaama , considered to be the camping place of large group of Syeds from Central Asia headed by Shah e Hamdaan on their Journey to Kashmir .Ancient Sodar Tirthaa ( present day Naran Naag temple ruins ) near Kangan also falls in this area.The sacred lakes of Kishen sar ( 3819 metres from sea level ) , Vishensar ( 4080 metres from sea level ) Gaad sar ( 3962 metres from sea level ) and Gangabal ( approx 13000 feet from sea level ) are also located in this area only.

Naran Naag in Neelmata Purana and Rajtarangini of kalhana

Neelmata repeatedly makes mention of Bhuteshwara Teertha or Sodar Naag or sodar Teertha . Bhuteshawara Teertha or Sodar Teertha is the present day Naran Naag Temple ruins and Sodar Naag is the spring of this temple complex.That is how present day Naraan nag was called in ancient times . I have verified this fact at page 293 and 294 apart II of Neelmata Purana ( canto 1154 to 59 , 1160to 1162 , 1163 to 1164 and 1167 )translated by eminent Sanskrit scholar Dr Ved kumari Ghai. Neelmata also explains the spiritual merits of taking a bath in Sodar naag or Naran Naag as equivalent to performing Ashavmedha .

Kalhana too makes repeated mention of Sodar Naag or Naran Naag in Rajtaringini . To quote Taranga I Canto 107 and 347, Taranga II canto 123 and 139 and Taranga IV canto 189 .He too calls it Bhuteshwara or Bhutesha and Sodar Teertha . Again the spring inside this temple complex is referred to as Sodar Naag by him. In fact Kalhana makes it clear that this temple complex was patronized by various kings of Kashmir . King Jaluka ( 137 BC ) erected a stone temple at this site dedicated to shiva Bhutesha. Kalhana adds that King jayendra ( 61 BC ) would come to worship shiva Bhutesha at this temple complex. King lalitaditya ( 713-755 AD )donated a good sum of money to this shrine after one of his victory expeditions. King Avantivarman ( 855-883 AD ) built a stone pedestal with silver conduit at this shrine for bathing of sacred images.Kalhan’s family was also devoted to this Teertha . His father Canpaka paid frequent visits to this shrine . Kalhana’s uncle Kanka also happened to be a frequent visitor to this shrine . The Teertha had a large number of Purohits who were paid handsome salaries from the endowments created for the shrine .As per kalhana , the treasury of this shrine was plundered by king Sangramraja of Kashmir ( 1003-28 AD).

Location of the Shrine Bhuteshwara or Naran Naag and Present Status

The shrine can be reached presently by travelling to Kangan (about 40 Kms )from Srinagar . From kangan one has to go up a trekking a distance of about 17 Kms through Alpine forests and grasslands where Bakerwals can be seen moving with their livestock. A motorable road also is in use at present to reach this ancient shrine . Ruins of many temples can be seen and some of the structure erected in stone are still erect. . As per records and various books , there used to be about 17 temples Dedicated to Shiva Bhuteshwara , Shiva Ugresa and Bhairava built by different kings of ancient Kashmir from time to time .Some more temples appear to be hidden under thick vegetation around this complex. Water from Gangbal lake located at an altitude of about 13000 feet from sea leval comes to this area . Sodar Naag or the water spring still exists at this site . This spring is an oblong rectangular structure lined with stone slabs with proper steps . Some Shiiva lingas carved on stones around the spring are still visible to naked eye. Kanakvahini or present day Kreink Nadi flows to the south of this temple complex of Naran Naag. Kanak Vahini or Krein Nadi is formed by two tributaries flowing out from two lakes above this tiratha known as NundKol and Gangbal.Kreink nadi finally joins Sindh stream below the Temple complex near Kangan. This place has now become the base camp for trekking to Gangabal lake . People now take a shorter route to go to gangabal which is about 8 hour trek from Naran naag . kashmiri pandits have been visiting this area since many centuries for performing Shradha after immersing the ashes of their dead relatives in sacred Gangabal lake which lies below the Harmukh mountain peak ( 17000 feet in height from sea level ).Presently also trekkers to Gangabal lake use this short route . A night stay at Naran Naag and early morning steep uphill trekking of about 17 Kms ( Done in 8 hours )takes you to Harmukh peak below which lies the sacred Gangbal lake .Naran Naag is otherwise a halting camp on return journey to Gangbal . The old and traditional Route to Gangabal is through Sonamarg _ Nichnai _vishensar and kishensar lakes _Gaad sar lake _ Gangbal lake and finally the return via Narran Nag.This is a five days trek wherein one comes across deep blue lakes with trout fish , wild flowers ,Grassy Plains and Morain ( debris deposited by glaciers ), Steep valleys with hanging glaciers feeding small rivers and lakes and tumbling streams pouring out of lakes .Europeans and foreigners trekking to Gangabal prefer this route only.A distance of about 95 Kms is covered through this trek in total upto Kangan beginning from Sonamarg.

Presently lodges are available at Naran Naag for night stay at Rs500/= Per room with clean beddings. Government accommodation is also available on competitive rates. To conclude i add “ comparison “ a poem by noted Kurdish poet Sherko Bekas….

(comparison )

History came
and compared its greatness
to the magnitude of your sufferings.
your sufferings surpassed it by a few fingerbreadths.
When the ocean wanted to compare
Its depth to that of your wounds,
It screamed for fear of
Being drowned in them.

Friday, September 21, 2012

PHOTO CLICKED BY AUTAR MOTA (IN 2012 ) FROM A WALLPAINTING HANGING IN JALIANWALA BAGH AMRITSAR. MY SINCERE THANKS TO THE ARTIST WHO DID THIS POTRAIT.THANKS TO JALIANWALA BAGHTRUST AMRITSARFOR THIS PHOTOGRAPH.

AMRITSAR , KASHMIRIS AND DR SAIF UD DIN KITCHLOO..

Recurring floods ,
Cholera Epidemics, famines , lack of employment avenues , Shawl Business and Suppression
were the main reason for migration of kashmiris from valley during nineteenth century . By kashmiris I mean
both Pandits and muslims . . These migrants settled mostly in Punjab and Delhi. Some Pandits moved further towards the princely states presently known as United provinces, MP, Rajasthan . kashmiri Muslims confined themselves mostly to areas of Punjab concentrating in and around Lahore , Ludhiana and Amritsar. One such kashmiri muslim family that moved to Amritsar was of Ahmed joo Kitchloo . Ahmed joo owned Pashmina and saffron trading business and originally belonged to a kashmiri Brahmin family from Baramulla. Ahmed joo’s Grand father Prakash Ram Kitchloo had embraced Islam.

Dr Saifud din was Grand child of Ahmed joo and son of Aziz ud Din Kitchloo . He was born at Amrisar in january 1888.Young Saif Ud Din did his Initial schooling from Amritsar and went to cambridge and Germany to complete his Doctorate .After his return to India saif ud Din Kitchloo started his Legal Practice and married the daughter of Hafeez ullah Manto aother kashmiri Lawyer from Amritsar. In 1919 he was elected Municipal Commissioner of the Amritsar city. He was also drawn towards the freedom movement of the country under the leadership of Mahatma Gandhi He took part in Gandhi Ji's Satyagraha (Non-cooperation) movement and soon left his practice to become part of the freedom movement of the country as well as the All India Khilafat Committee.

Dr. Kitchloo had started an Urdu daily “Tanzim” meant for uplift of the poor and illiterate Muslims. He was also instrumental in establishing “Swaraj Ashram” in January 1921 at Amritsar to train young men for the national work and to promote Hindu-Muslim unity.

As per Dr Amandeep a research scholar from Guru Nanak university Amritsar :-

“There is a new dimension to anti colonial consciousness among Kashmiris living in Amritsar just before the partition of the country . The notable amongst them are Abdul Salam Rafiqi, Dr Saifuddin Kitchloo and Abdul Majid. Abdul Majid, a Kashmiri was one of the founders of the communist party of India in Tashkent in 1925. Dr Kitchloo, the hero who inspired struggle against Rowlatt Act, went on to play a leading role in Indian National Congress movement..In 1891 the number of Kashmiri Muslims in Amritsar was 21, 261. It was one-third of the total Muslim population and one-sixth of the total population of Amritsar. By the last decade of the ninetenth century a few Kashmiri families had become rich enough to influence the politics of the Amritsar city. Among these families were Shaikh Ahmad Sadiq, chairman of the Amritsar Muncipal Committee, Shaikh Sadiq Hasan, a member of the Central Legislative and Punjab Legislative Assembly for Amritsar, Shaikh Muhammad Sadiq, a member of Punjab Legislative Council from Amritsar.The strongest opposition to Rowlatt Act passed by British Rulers in march 1891 was organised and led by Dr Saif Ud Din Kitchloo in entire Punjab. He asked people to take the vow of Satya Graha given by Gandhi to liberate their country in a constitutional way. He denounced the British bureaucracy and encouraged the people to protest against the present mode of administration. He made extraordinary efforts to forge a unity among different functions in Punjabi society and create a dynamic force against the despotic and tyrannical administration of General Dyer. Dr Kitchloo demanded Home Rule and envisaged an India having the same political powers or an autonomy like other British colonies. As the agitation against the Bills mounted Gandhi gave a call for nationwide hartal. The date was initially fixed for 30 March but was later changed to 6 April as it was thought that enough notice had not been given. Dr Kitchloo was in the forefront on both the days.Hartal was observed all over Punjab on March 30, 1919 and a mass meeting was held at Jallianwalla Bagh, attended by some 30,000 people. On April 4th, Dr Kitchloo and some activists were served with orders under Defence of India Act, prohibiting them from addressing or attending public meetings.On April 6th there was country-wide hartal. It was observed principally in Amritsar, without any effort on the part of any local leader. There was no police interference. With Satyapal, Dr Kitchloo surcharged the people of Amritsar emotionally on Ram Naumi day i.e. 9 April. For the first time in the history of Amritsar, the Muslims had joined the traditional Hindu festival. It was the Hindu-Muslim unity which was disturbing for the authorities. Dr Satyapal and Kitchloo were taken into custody and deported to Dharamsala. The move proved self-defeating. The events that followed were due to premeditated actionon the part of the Punjab government i.e. the arrest of two beloved leaders. Dr Kitchloo warned the Deputy Commissioner that their arrest could lead to violence. In the end, he wrote a letter to his wife asking her to calm the people on his behalf. But the letter, was never delivered to her.The citizens of Amritsar went in a procession to Deputy Commissioner’s bunglow. The procession was fired upon in which three to four persons were killed and many more wounded. Soon the news of these killings spread. Thousands of people in Amritsar city went on a rampage and burnt a number of buildings including the Town Hall. They looted the National Bank and killed its manager. Zanana Hospital was attacked. Miss Sharewood was assaulted. An English man was killed at Rego-bridge. The destruction and looting of the city continued till 5.00 PM. The city of Amritsar was put under the military administration of Brigadier General Dyer. Martial Law was proclaimed. On the morning of 13 April Dyer made a proclamation prohibiting processions and meetings. At about the same time a boy was announcing by beating a tin can that a meeting would be held at 4.00 PM in Jallianawala Bagh. 20,000 people gathered in Jallianwala Bagh to protest against the barbarous actions of the Punjab regime, and to demand the release of their leaders. On the ‘presidential chair’ the picture of their leader-Dr Kitchloo was placed. Soon General Dyer entered with 150 soldiers. No notice was given to the mass of the people to disperse and within three minutes he ordered his troops to fire. In all 1650 rounds were fired from a range of forty to fifty yards. Firing lasted for ten minutes. He stopped firing because ammunition was running low.According to official estimates (The Hunter Committee Report) 379 people were killed and 1200 wounded. General Dyer was directing the shooting where the crowd was the thickest. After the massacre the wounded were left along with the dead to die in agony and no medical assistance was permitted.Subsequently a reign of terror was unleashed throughout Punjab. While scores of Punjabis were hanged, imprisoned and flogged, the British accused Dr Kitchloo of being number one in the Amritsar conspiracy case. The whole trial was a farce. He was sentenced to life imprisonment but the public opinion in Britain caused the British government to release Dr Kitchloo. The Rowlatt agitation in Amritsar witnessed umprec-edented Muslim participation. Out of the total 151 sentenced to death from Amritsar city, thirty were Muslims. The accused in the Rego bridge murder case, Mani and Muhammed Shafi were Kashmiri Muslims. Aziz another Kashmiri artisan was sentenced to death in Alliance Bank murder case. Miles Irving, DC of Amritsar in his report attributed rioting to Kashmiris.................... ”

( Dr.Kitchloo in New Delhi 1953)
Like Maulana Azad , Saif Ud din Kitchlu opposed the Two Nation Theory and the partition of the country.He remained steadfast in his commitment to secularism and shifted to Delhi after his house was burnt by arsonists in 1947 and later spent the rest of his years working for closer political and diplomatic relations with the USSR. He received the Stalin Peace Prize in 1952, which was renamed for Lenin Peace Prize under De-Stalinization. In 1951, a Government Act made him, Jawaharlal Nehru, and Maulana Abul Kalam Azad, life trustees of the Jallianwala Bagh National Memorial Trust.He died on October 9, 1963. His son, Toufique Kitchloo, lived in a Lampur village on the outskirts of Delhi and one of his Daughters Zahida Kitchloo, married M. B. Sreenivasan, well known
Malayalam Music director.MBS as he was known to millions of his fans world over , produced many hits in Malayalam films. His style of music involved only minimal orchestration and were noted for their simple lucidity. He is the one who introduced the legendary singer Yesudas to film industry.

A son was also born to Zahida and M B Sreenivasan who was fondly named as KABIR. But no member from this family survives today.

In 1989, Government Of India released a commemorative stamp in honour of Dr Kitchloo..

Toufique Kitchloo (son of Dr Kitchloo) has also written a book on his father titled " Dr Saif Ud Din Kitchlew Hero Of Jalianwala Bagh" .Toufique (Born 1932) has done MA in history from Delhi university and has lived in Poland,Germany and Ethopia.

This lightening and heat has created
the day of last Judgement in our world,
In our dealings nothing exists beyond politeness .
Trapped we have been by this merciless time in this struggle ,
But for the wealth of our civilization, we have
Nothing to put on display in these bare hands .