I was in overhead at Trestles and caught a nice set wave, I dropped in and went to do a bottom turn and my board slide out. I got caught inside and I went to go under a wave and let go of my board. That was the last time I ever did that. I was pulled under for what seemed to be about one minute but actually was probably only 20 to 30 seconds. I couldn't feel my board by pulling my leash so I couldn't tell which way was up. I also couldn't feel the bottom to push up. Finally I felt my board and swam frantically to the surface while my lungs were convulsing to take in air. I did make it to the surface and when I did I took a huge breath and was greeted with another overhead wave breaking right in front of me. This one didn't hold me under as long but I was so worn out from the first one I just rode the whitewash in on my stomach.

Favourite Surfers:

Mark Richards, Gerry Lopez, Kelly Slater,

My Quiver

Shape:

Shortboard

Fins:

2- Fish

Shaper:

Nectar

Size x Width x Thickness:

5'9"

Condition:

Well Used

Tail:

swallow

Bottom:

Channels

Type of Fins:

Glassed in

Year Made:

1981

Year Bought:

1981

My Opinion About:

When I was younger and smaller this board was awesome in surf shoulder high and lower. It was fast and loose. Surf any bigger than that and it would slide out every time.