I've played around with more complicated crab sauces for pasta, using cream
and other fancy ingredients, but in the end, the best sauce of all is the simplest
and quickest. Here, the sweet, juicy taste of the crab can shine through, supported
and enhanced, but not masked, by the other ingredients. It takes literally a minute
to put together the sauce, so quick that it should only be started when the pasta
is cooked.

Be sure to use fresh crab for this. Freezing dulls the flavor of crab, especially
that of the white meat. If you must use frozen crab, you will definitely need
the extra brown meat to enhance the flavor. If the crab is fresh, the extra brown
meat is not essential but can be used as an option.

Having tried this with tagliatelle and other forms of pasta, I have come to
the conclusion that the only one that really works is spaghetti, preferably the
thinner sort known as spaghettini. Somehow, the finer, tubular form is a far better
support for the delicate but distinctive nature of fresh crab. As far as the choice
of herb goes, parsley and mint are far more Italian but cilantro is always fantastic
with shellfish. And one last thing: please, please, please, don't add any Parmesan
or other grated cheese. It really doesn't need it.

Bring a large pan of salted water to a rolling boil and add the pasta. Bring
back to a boil and cook until al dente. Drain thoroughly and return to the pan.
Add the white crab meat and, if using, the brown meat.

Very quickly warm the olive oil in a small pan and add the chili flakes. Cook
for just a few seconds and stir in the lemon zest and herbs. Quickly pour the
mixture over the pasta, scraping in any bits left in the pan. Add the lemon juice
and season with salt and a touch of pepper. Toss everything together and serve
immediately.