2. Make the sauce: Pour half the green sauce into a blender, add poblanos, and blend at low speed until smooth. Pour into a medium saucepan, add the remaining green sauce and cream, and bring to a simmer over low heat. Remove from the heat.

3. To soften the first six tortillas, heat half the oil in a medium-low skillet and lay each tortilla in oil for 15 seconds each side. Repeat with other six. Drain on paper towels. Fill and roll tortillas, using 1/3 cup of chicken each. Place enchiladas seam side down in 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Can prepare up to 4 hours in advance. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and plastic wrap, and refrigerate. Remove 30 minutes before baking.

4. Pour hot sauce over the enchiladas. Jiggle the dish so the sauce settles in between them. Sprinkle cheese evenly over top. Bake until the sauce around the edges bubbles and cheese is golden brown, about 20 minutes. Stand for 5 minutes before serving.

5. Scatter the onion and cilantro over the enchiladas. Scoop 2 enchiladas and plenty of sauce onto each serving plate.

1. Put tomatillos and jalapeños in a medium saucepan, pour in enough cold water to barely cover (about 3 1/2 cups), and bring to a boil. Cook until jalapeños are soft and tomatillos tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand for 15 minutes.

2. Gently drain mixture in a colander. Wipe out saucepan and set aside. Put the tomatillos, jalapeños, garlic, and cumin in a blender and blend for a few seconds, just until the tomatillos are coarsely chopped. Add the cilantro and blend until the sauce is smooth and speckled with finely chopped cilantro. Do not overblend, or you will grind the tomatillo seeds and make a thick and pasty rather than smooth and shiny sauce.

3. Heat oil in pan over medium. Pour in the salsa, bring to simmer, and simmer until lightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Season with salt. Store sauce in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat over low heat before using.

DEVON MAKES THE ENCHILADASThis recipe comes from Sanborns, a popular cafeteria chain in Mexico. I had it at Sanborns in 1968 in Mexico City and I've never forgotten it. Principally, I think, because its creaminess was then, and still seems, so un-Mexican. Think of crepes filled with creamed chicken, then think of making them spicy, and you'll begin to get the idea.

Easier to make than lasagna, this is the same kind of family-friendly casserole-type dish. I've never been brave enough to fry tortillas before, but besides using more than the 1/4 cup of vegetable oil the recipe called for, it was easy. The tortillas puffed and browned beautifully and still stayed pliable enough to roll up.

I'm even thinking I'll search out a more authentic brand than those I found in my local supermarket. This is going to become a regular at my house, and the next time I make it I'd like the filling to be a little creamier. I'd toss the shredded chicken in the green sauce before filling the tortillas. I used Muenster cheese for the topping and it was a little bland. Next time I'll mix in some grated Parmesan for its salty flavor and ability to brown nicely.