What’s the difference between a popular wine and a perennially fashionable one? Our wine columnist considers this question and recommends five bottles with enduring appeal.

A FRIEND AND I recently had a debate over whether rosé is a fashionable or a popular wine. My friend contended that rosé is both, while I argued it’s only the latter.

Popular wines, often the product of clever marketing campaigns, usually appeal to enthusiastic neophytes, not seasoned oenophiles. Fashionable wines, by contrast, attain their status over years, even decades, and are favored by amateurs and pros alike. By fashionable I mean wines that are perennial favorites, not a grape or region tied to a particular moment.