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When chef Arturo McLeod left for midtown Manhattan after two decades at Peter Luger’s, he was thinking big. A long corridor lined with magnums leads to a soaring double-height space inside the Dylan Hotel. Portions also come big, of course, with hefty cuts of prime rib eye, filet mignon, and New York sirloin, plus porterhouse prepared Luger-style for two, three, or four. McLeod selects the beef himself, which is dry-aged in the house’s special aging box. The steak comes lightly seared, its subtle savory seasoning the perfect complement to the tender meat. Chops are a popular alternative, both lamb and veal served in double-thick, extra-heavy cuts. Shrimp cocktails; crab cakes; and tuna, bass, and salmon accommodate those looking to go beyond beef. On the side, spinach comes extra creamy, and mashed potatoes are airy without losing character. The classic fare is well-matched by the minimal interior, with its oak paneling and leather seating, and Sinatra on the sound system. A curving catwalk elegantly connects a mezzanine dining area. Squared-off Corinthian columns bookend a working fireplace and underscore a subtle, masculine atmosphere.
— Ethan Wolff