Thanks! interesting. For my eye, everthing starts with the shoulder when I see or wear a suit. If it isn't just right, I lose interest.I've yet to find an OTR that fits my shoulder as cleanly as I would like, and of the two bespoke tailors I've tried, one coulnd't do it and the other was very successful, so I guess it is hard.

Well said! This all strikes me as spot on. One question I have: what about the shoulder? In looking at exceptional suits the one detail that always grabs me is the fit and cohesion of the shoulder.My theory has been that to achieve this you need a very good bespoke tailor, it is the one detail that you just can’t get OTR, and it is a hard detail to achieve for many tailors.Would you agree? Or is this in my imagination?

I agree with your comment about San Francisco, it is hard to find a good tailor here. We had an excelent alterations tailor named Victor but unfortunately he passed away this year.As for bespoke, yes, it is one of those unfortunate cities that can't trully provide it.I would add Chicago to your list of cities to tavel to as I think Chris Despos is as good as anyone.In terms of travelling bespoke tailors from London, it is an option, but one needs to be careful there. I...

How long have you been in DC? I was there for 2005 and go back fairly often having property downtown. When I was there I hung out a lot with staffers on the Dem side and attended a number of functions. To answer your question, I think there are a few reasons why you see simple attire and bad fitting suits. For starters, it's very much a military and government culture and neither have ever been known for expressive dress. In both groups, conformity and loyalty are...

I agree with Shirtmaven that you will likely get a more english styled suit, which is a bit more structured, maybe a heavier canvas than you are use to from Zegna. While I haven't used Field, I have used a Savile Row tailor and when I got my suit I was pretty surprissed by the heavy weight of the suit despite the cloth only being 11 oz. The tailor used a pretty thick canvas.I would still recommend you consider using Field for a suit though for a few reasons. One, you are...

Well, Field has a great rep and I imagine being the only bench made suit maker in a big suit/tie town like DC he has some pretty exacting clients, so I imagine you are in good hands. Given this, Im guessing Field's customers will tell you to expect a much better suit From Filed than high end OTR.My comment about bespoke in general though is true. Often people mistakenly believe a "bespoke" suit is automatically better than OTR and unfortunately this is not true. There are...