OK, OK. Even thou its my birthday i did the last essential drawing... the attached plus that the interior widrg is 280mm.

dave

Coincidentally I worked last night until 3AM to retrace everything on my modeling software and everything checked out very good. Now all I need to do is recheck everything with your latest schematic but I recon everything will be ok. I managed to squeeze the whole project into a 2500x1250 mm board, so you can make one enclosure from one sheet. Monday I'll go get the wood and start the work. Thank you and happy birthay!

*later edit*

something like this picture. It's convenient if you buy the wood from some place that can only cut straight, then you can ask them to cut long pieces that you can fit in your vehicle. Then each piece can be sized into the corresponding parts. I left 1 cm between all parts so there's no problems if the initial cut isn't perfect. Units are in mm. The large sheet can be cut into 2 sheets of 450x1250 mm and 5 sheets of 280x1250mm. This way is easy to cary from the store and can be angle cut at home or somewhere else.

OK, OK. Even thou its my birthday i did the last essential drawing... the attached plus that the interior widrg is 280mm.

dave

Hi Dave, I hope you're having fun!

I rebuilt the speaker from your latest specs and I think there are 3 angles that don't fit right. First, the 45 degrees angle from the G piece should be 45.5 degrees, then F piece both angles should be 9.7 instead of 10.2 and 17.9 instead of 19. This way the H piece lines up parallel with the bottom part and almost all dimensions work out within 0.1mm from the schematic that you posted some time ago (the one with green writing, not the older one in red). Please correct me if I'm wrong thou. (after the party )

Thanx for the QC. The angles on the G & F pieces i was working on were correct, the pieces were not correctly drawn. I fixed that and redimensioned and they now concur with your numbers. I have replaced the image in the earlier post.

In actual practise tenths of a degree are impractical to work with, but we might as well be as true to Ron's work as we can.

Thanx for the QC. The angles on the G & F pieces i was working on were correct, the pieces were not correctly drawn. I fixed that and redimensioned and they now concur with your numbers. I have replaced the image in the earlier post.

In actual practise tenths of a degree are impractical to work with, but we might as well be as true to Ron's work as we can.

dave

You are right, hard to nail those angles when cutting/assembling. Thank you for your help, you made it easy for the rest of us to be confident in building this great enclosure!

I'm so ready for the saw now. I think the angles will be tricky to get exact but I will try. It will be some time before the finished product as I live in an apartment and my wife doesn't exactly like saw dust everywhere for days on end. I promise pics will come when they're glued up.

It's nice to see there's still intrest in the Dallas II design. It's been a long time since I built my pair but they still sound great and pass the WAF test.
I wanted to address a few questions asked in this thread.

Cutting the top off the design ? I did this to a lesser extent; I split the baffle just above the driver and tilted it back 18* , You may notice in this pic that Dave hosts on his site of my build. Ron Clarke commented negatively to my decision. He said the baffle size was a calculated part of the design. My change would raise the stage. Also, the larger baffle may help smooth the upper frequency response of the FE206E, which is a bit ragged and spikey.

Using the 206eN ? This Fostex model did not exist when Ron designed the Dallas II but the FE208 sigma did. Ron said the sigma could be used by adding a 3/4" thick section to the back of the compression chamber, reducing it's volume.