How to Grow a Long Beard That Never Gets Scraggly

You can't just let the hair follicles on your face extrude their wiry product. There's significantly more to growing a beard than just not shaving. And the longer the beard, the higher the stakes. Once you get out in James Harden territory, the threat of scraggliness gets way more intense.

When the journey began, your beard was short and sweet and didn’t require a great deal of maintenance. But we’re guessing now that you’ve got a Harden-length beard going, your old styling tricks aren’t really cutting it anymore, right? Fear not, we called up a couple of our beard-styling experts—including James Harden’s personal barber—for tips and techniques to keep your face fur in formation. These are the five essential things you need if know if you're wondering how to grow a long beard.

1. Don’t Ghost Your Barber
Derek Nieto is the trusted barber for many of the Houston Rockets, including the cover star of our May issue, James Harden.
Nieto says growing your beard isn’t an excuse to stop consulting your barber. In fact, he claims, you should be seeing him even more. “If you don’t trim your hair, you’ll get split ends,” he says. And split-ends is what causes that scraggly, untamed look says John Scala of The New York Shaving Company. “Having an excessive amount of split ends will actually slow down the growth of your beard, and make it look scraggly and untamed,” says Scala. “Trimming your beard will promote healthier and sometimes even faster growth.”

2. Establish a Nighttime Regimen
“It’s important to keep your beard hydrated,” says Scala. “Right after a shower, your pores are more open and your skin will more readily absorb anything you put on it.” Before bed, apply a beard cream. It'll lock in hydration, creating an intense, deep conditioning treatment, and you’ll wake up with a soft, stronger beard.

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3. Shampoo the Nasty Stuff Away
Remember that study that said your beard may be covered in poop? Whether you believe it or not, we do know beards are prone to getting dirty, collecting crumbs, and absorbing everyday pollutants. “Your beard should be washed as much, if not more, than your head,” says Scala. But he warns beard wearers to read their shampoo labels carefully. “Pay close attention to the ingredients in the products you choose to use on your beard. Steer clear of silicones and harsh chemical surfactants and reach for natural oils and ingredients. Harsh chemicals found in commercial shampoo can dry out your beard making it course, brittle, and very itchy.”

4. Opt for Beard Cream for Warmer Months
Nieto recommends beard oil to moisturize. In the summer months, Scala suggests using a beard cream instead. “Beard creams like the ones we make are formulated to soothe new-growth itch and condition established beards,” he says. “Reach for beard creams rich with shea butter to calm and condition, organic aloe to soften and soothe, lime essential oil to break down dirt that can clog pores.”

5. Put Your Beard on a Fitness Routine
Just as you prepare your body for summer, you have to train your beard as well. “Comb your beard daily and lead it in the direction you want it to grow,” says Scala. “Do this at least three times a day and eventually the beard will be trained to go to the fixed direction and cover the bald spots on the skin.” And just as exercise and nutrition go hand in hand in crafting a fit body, proper nutrition also aids in crafting a fit beard. “Food habit and stress are some reasons that cause scraggly and patchy beards,” says Scala. “Physical exercise can help someone reduce the stress, and a proper and balanced diet with lots of water helps the body get the required nutrients to grow a full beard.”

Lastly, the important thing to remember, according to Nieto, is to use a pick anytime your beard gets tangled.