The Marshal: Farm-to-Table, Without Making a Stop at Fussy

If the thought of farm-to-table cooking summons a vision of precious foodie hell, consider The Marshal. One entrée, roasted in a wood-fired oven, showcases beef from Arcadian Pastures up in Schoharie County, stuffed with handmade mozzarella from Tonjes Farm and parsnips from Dagele Brothers, both in the Hudson Valley. They’re calling this dish meatloaf, and at least one Chowhound is all in. It’s just like Grandma’s version, Ziggy41 writes—”after Grandma graduated from Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Institute followed by a two-year stint with the Canadian navy.”

You get the idea: no-nonsense American comfort food, executed at a high level with ingredients grown as close as possible to Hell’s Kitchen. Chicken stuffed with goat cheese and herbs is tender, moist, and clad in crispy skin. Mussels come in a spot-on sauce of white wine, garlic, herbs, and cream. A don’t-miss special, when available, is duck pot pie. And from the seasonally changing list of sides, one standout is a gratin of kale and sweet potato—look for it.

Also worth seeking out are knockout duck-fat potato chips, served with a handful of dishes including the burger and grilled cheese sandwich. “Crisp, crunchy, perfectly salted, and redolent with rich ducky goodness,” ipsedixit promises.