Accommodation and Food

A great place to stay is the Roc 'n Rope Climbers' Lodge in the town of Waterval Boven (bunks or double rooms). They also rent out 4-sleeper chalets on top of the Wonderland Crags (Tranquillitas Chalets) and can tell you about camping options. They also sell and rent most climbing equipment and offer rest day alternatives like mountain bike rentals.Roc 'n Rope: Tel: 013 257 0363, climb@rocrope.com

The Elandskrans Mountain Resort is open again under new management, but still has issues with regards to crime, the latest being an armed robbery at the ablution block on 2009/03/29 [1]. Rather stay at the Tranquillitas Chalets on top of the Wonderland crags. If you're looking for alternatives in Boven check out the local accommodation booking site [2]

Food basics can be bought in town. Good quality meat can be found at affordable prices.

Safety

Malaria
Waterval Boven is free of malaria and climbers do not have to take precautions.Climbers travelling to the Kruger National Park for a day or two shouldn't have a problem.If you plan an extended visit consult your family doctor or pharmacist about anti-malarial medication.

Snakes and spiders
These animals will make themselves scarce when they hear you approaching.If you do encounter them give them the right of way since you are in their home.

Crime
There have been problems with crime in the past (muggings and car break-ins). Climbers should not take any valuables (cellphones, cameras, wallets, passports) to the Waterfall crags, Island or Sport Valley Areas as a precaution.

There are currently climbers visiting all the crags around Waterval Boven. Most have been frequenting the Wonderland Area because it is nice and far out of town and there have never been issues with crime (it is cooler in the summer heat as well!).

Emergency Phone Numbers
Mountain Club of SA Rescue Service: 011 315 0203.
This service is based in Johannesburg, but operators can alert rescue teams from other regions.

Local Rescue Services:

072 228 1643 - Inspector Alwyn Venter (chief of rescue services)

082 753 3695 - Gustav Janse van Rensburg

013 257 0001 / 112 - Waterval Boven Police

013 257 0015 - Waterval Boven Hospital

Also useful:

10111 - SA Police

10117 - Ambulance

082 911 - Emergency

Rest Day Activities

Krugerhof
This historical monument located in Waterval Onder was the last residence of President Paul Kruger in the South African Republic (ZAR).

Sudwala Caves
Enjoy a 1 hour tour of these really interesting 200 million year old cave features and chambers.

The Kruger National Park
With 507 bird species, 336 tree types, 49 fish species, 114 reptiles, 34 amphibians and 147 mammals you simply can not afford to miss out on this place.

Hiking
There are plenty of hiking opportunities in the areas around town but these are mostly day hikes.

Bouldering
The local crags provide plenty bouldering opportunities. Within in a 30min from town you can reach Kaapsche Hoop where you can find some 3 star bouldering. An hours drive from town you can find Gold Rush which offers excellent 5 star bouldering.

Paragliding
Bambi Paragliding is located 20km from Waterval Boven. They offer tandem flights, training and a good launch site.

Horse Riding
Blaauwboschkraal Trails are friendly locals who offer historical and multi day horse back trips across the hills surrounding town.

Fly Fishing
The Waterval Boven Trout Lodge and Trout association can be contacted for licences, rental of rods and also for guidance and instruction.

Route Updates

These route updates are supplements to the current guide book with 512 routes for the greater Waterval Boven Area. Contact the publishers, Roc 'n Rope Adventures [3] to find out where to get a copy before it goes out of print.

Waterfall Area

The Last Crag of the Century

15.5) UNPLUGGED AVENUE 14 ** [N,A]
Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge at the end of EA's first pitch.
FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling 2009

19.5) MONKEY PUZZLE 28 *** [11D]
Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!
FA: Jens Richter 2005

25.5) CHAKALAKA 20 **** [12D]
Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES.
FA: Bine Tittel 2005

The Junkyard

82.5) FUNKY FRUIT 16 *** [N]
At Out of Germany look away from the river accros the little gully. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right.
FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet 2006

82.7) TWO FOR TREE 17 ** [N]
Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up.
FA:Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

83.5) YOU CAN TAKE YOUR DOG TO THE WATER... 18 *** [N]
Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.2) CREEP IT 'N REAP IT 17 *** [N]
Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. From ledge, traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter 2004

85.3) ET TU CEASAR 19 *** [N]
20m right of the loose pillar, a rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.4) BOA RODEO 31 ***** [N]
The left crack on the obvious steep leaning wall on the far right of this 40m high crag.
FA: Jens Richter 2003

85.5) MULUNGU GOES TO SCHOOL 32 **** [1B,N]
Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.
FA: Jens Richter 2005

85.7) KHAMIKAZI LEILA 17 *** [N]
Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the summit.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.8) IN MY PLACE 19 *** [N]
30m right of SCRABBLE. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk 2004

85.9) THORNICATION 18 *** [N]
Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arete and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top.
FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

Wonderland

Tranquilitas

The Creche

347.3) MILOU 9 *** [8D]
Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie 2007

347.4) CROUCHING TIGER 12 *** [10D]
Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route. FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

Malaria Area

357.4) LOST IN TRANSLATION 22 *** [14D]
Starts about 20m left of SWAT Team. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains! FA: Mark Millar 2004

357.5) ATLANTIS 27 **** [11D]
A great line just right of LIT. Head into the corner and race for the chains using some technical know how. Originally opened at 26 but the grade seems to have settled at 27, for now... FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

357.6) ELDORADO 28 **** [11D]
One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and impeccable sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Concensus is easy 28 (7c). FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

357.7) INCA TRAIL 27 **** [11Dish]
A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line climbs better than it looks, weaving its way through a series of balancy moves. FA: Andrew Pedley, June 2009

357.8) S.W.A.T. Team 24 **** [10D]
A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted (its now safe) and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune. BB: Mark Millar & Mike Garrard 2003

357.9) FEVER 29 *** [10D]
Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a roof. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Beta will help.
FA: Dewald Kloppers 2009

Grunt Area

363.65) BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BELAYER 22 *** [10D]
One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury 2007

363.8) LITTLE BONSAI 16 **** [12D]
The first route left of the recess where CHIMNEYING TAMMY hides away. Classic at the grade. FA: Unknown 2005

367.4) I FEEL ROCKS 24 ** [8D]
Starts on a pile of rocks 3m right of BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above. FA: Sean Ferguson 2003

367.5) UP YOUR TREE 20 *** [9D]
Shares a start with I FEEL ROCKS. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003

Rubik's Cube Boulders

369.3) STITCH IT 29/30 *** [6D]
Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

Baboon Buttress

369.1) AFTER THOUGHT 16 * [5D]
Climbs the corner crack situated to the left of the descent gully (when facing the bottom of the gully). FA: Darryl Margetts August 2009

Closed Project: (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)[Ken Thrash] The route ascends the face around the corner of the right arete of the descent gully.

Closed Project: (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)[7D][Ken Thrash] The route ascends the right arete of the descent gully

Closed Project: (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)[7D] [Brian Weaver] Starts off of the lowest boulders in the gully. Arcs right up the right hand face.

369.4) BABOONS IN BOARDSHORTS 14 ** [7D]
First route on the left in descent gully. Start one metre left of the skyline arête and angle up leftwards on grey slab. FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

372.3) KANNIE-BALLISTIC 26 **** [12D] SEEPS
Start on the tree at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. Straight up on the headwall is still In Progress. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag. A must do. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

372.8a) NOT-DA-MAMA 23 ** [14D]
Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. FA: Ken Thrash July 2008.

372.8b) HEY MAMA 16 * [6D]
Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma. FA: Darryl Margetts July 2008.

372.8c) Closed Project (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)
Starts a few metres left of the drip. K. Thrash

372.8d) Closed Project (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)
Starts as for S.T.P. but then go further left up the face to the ledge, then up the left side of the open book to the roof and continue straight up the face to the top. K. Thrash

372.9) S.T.P. 23 *** [17D]
Starts on a ledge 4m above the path, just after the waterfall/drip as you head towards God No Wall from Baboon Buttress. Beware of hard clip over the roof. A nice long journey. A 60m rope gets you back to the ledge, a 50m rope is too SHORT!!!!!! Two extra lower offs have been added to the ledge to make it a lot easier to clean and get back down onto the ground.
FA: Glenn Harrison 2007

373.1) BUTTERFLY (FIRST HALF) 26 ****
Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks! FA: Alard Hufner.

373.2) BIG BUTTERFLY 28 **** [lots]
Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on TR with belayer at top. The top pitch alone is probably 26. FA: Andrew Pedley 2007 BB: Mark Seuring

The God No! Wall

373.3a)RODAN (Closed Project)
Closed Project of A Pedley's.

373.3b)GODZILLA 31 ***** [14D]
Bovens 'King Line'. Easy to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10 move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. Not quite 8b. FA. Andrew Pedley - September 2008.

373.4) MONSTER 29 ***** [16D]
The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. It's a super-classic! Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29. 70 m rope needed. FA: Andrew Pedley 2006 BB: Alard Hufner

373.5) THE BEAST aka THE ANIMAL TRAP 32 ***** [16D]
Start up Monster and take the rigt hand break at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'animal trap' then deadpoint your way up diagonally to the chains. Low in the grade. Brilliant. 70 m rope needed. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2008

373.6) FREAK-SHOW 28 * [12D]
Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs. FA Andrew Pedley July 2008

373.7) JUGGERNAUT 31 *** [12D]
Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt. FA Marc Flex Efune June 2009 (BB Mark Millar).

373.8) FREAK-ON 24 ***** [12D]
Starts 4m to the left of CE. Crimps to the ledge then heads up the rightwards slanting weakness. Some great moves lead you up this sustained route. The route will in all likelihood remain dry during heavy rain. Solid at the grade. FA: Andrew Pedley - Jan 2008

373.9) CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR 28 * [4D]
A two bolt boulder problem put up by Mike Cartwright. The route can be done via a dyno, followed by a stiff move to the chains but has been done without. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won’t let you climb anywhere else. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud Jan 2007 BB: Mike Cartwright

373.9b) WHO NEEDS LUCKY COWS 31 *** (12D)
Climb Choc Eclair then continue over the roof and up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. FA: Daniel Gebel , September 2009.

373.9c) DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS 26 *** [13D]
This route is found in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging dihedral “behind” God No Wall. FA: Mike Cartwright Jan 2007

373.9d) TOKOLOSIE 30 **** [14D]
Sustanined and with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge L of Jack. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, break out right through the small roof. Blast up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009.

373.10) THE BACKCOUNTRY BUTCHER 31 **** (13D)
Up past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, finishing up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Dont get butchered. Solid at the grade. Top third gets dusty after heavy rain. FA: Andrew Pedley Jan 2009.

373.11) CHANGING GEARS 24,23,25 *** [12D]
This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago.
FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006 BB: Gustav 2009

375.4) VORPAL SWORD 31 ***** [16D]
The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. An unbelievable climb. Need a 70 m rope.
FA: Andrew Pedley May 2008

375.5) HELL YEAH! 27 *** [17D]
A very long climb (35m) Takes the long corner a few meters to the right of Jabberwocky, immediatly right of Vorpal Sword. Make sure to rest at the three rest spots between the three crux sections. Popular route.
FA: Marc Efune Dec 2006

377.1) BURNING SPEAR 28 *** [17D]
Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down.
FA: Marc Efune Oct 2009 BB: Reiny zee German 2009

378.1) BITTERGAL 22 *** [14D]
This climb is situated to the right of Alice in Grannyland. As with Brolloks, the first few meters of climbing is on dolerite, changing to quartzite higher up.
FA: Greg Borman Feb 2009

378.2) BROLLOKS 19 ***** [14D]
Since being opened, this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in the Wonderland area. Starts off the block five meteres to the right of Bittergal, from the ledge follow the bolts up to your left; sustained.
FA: Greg Borman Jan 2009

378.3) GROENIE DIE DRAKIE 21 **** [13D]
Just right of Brolloks. Climb up to the ledge then follow the bolts up to your left.
FA: Ken Thrash June 2009

378.4) SAREL SEEMONSTER 18 ****[12D]
Just right of Groenie die Drakie. Climb up to the ledge then follow the bolts up to your left.
FA: Ken Thrash June 2009

Hallucinogen Wall

394.5) MANSLAVES 15 ***
Climb left face of large right facing corner to roof. Swing left under lock and up. FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti

395.4) LA CROISIERE S'AMUSE 24 **** [10D]
Start In the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains. (The missing bolt has eventually been placed to avoid the fall into trees) FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, Vince 2003

395.5) LAB RAT 33 ***** [10D]
Follow the crack to the left of Dexter’s Lab, and then watch your feet as you climb the leaning headwall. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. A short and powerful route. FA: Clinton Martinengo 2006 BB: Philippe Gaboriaud

CLOUD CITY 22 *** [10D]
Climb the face left of Smokey the bear up to the overhang,pull through the overhang onto a small ledge, continue up the face to the chains.FA: E Margetts, D Margetts, A Margetts 2010.

407.5) HEMP ON THE HILL 17 **** [11D]
Start one meter left of the open book just right of SHROOM HUNTER. FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner 2004

462.95) HARD NORMAL DADDY **** 25 [10D]
Climb the obvious corner right of RUDE BUSHMAN. FA: Dan Honeyman 2007
(PS: Start on this route and climb over onto RUDE BUSHMAN for an alternative 23 and do the vice versa for a bit more of a solid 25 experience if you want!)

464.5) OUT ON A LIMB 25/26 *** [10D]
Head up the left hand limb of the white tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above… FA: Mark Millar 2006

464.6) SOUL MANDATE 25 ** [11D]
Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above. FA: Mark Millar 2004

471.5) NAME UNKNOWN 22 *** [12D]
New route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador. Be aware of the potentially lose (and brain damaging) block just before the chains. This block has been REMOVED and is now safe to climb. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2006

471.6) LE SKETCH 22 *** [11D]
The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. A good line on good holds. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2003