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is the field strip screw too tight / too loose? it could be an alignment issue causing the bolt to jam and reset. is it a detent issue? it might be sticking too far into the breech and causing the bolt to reset. try taking the detent out and see if it fires. if it does, i guess the simple fix is to add an o-ring on the outside so it doesn't screw so far into the body.

i suppose it's easy enough to see if the sear is hanging up on something, just take everything off of see if it moves freely in the rail.

is the field strip screw too tight / too loose? it could be an alignment issue causing the bolt to jam and reset. is it a detent issue? it might be sticking too far into the breech and causing the bolt to reset. try taking the detent out and see if it fires. if it does, i guess the simple fix is to add an o-ring on the outside so it doesn't screw so far into the body.

i suppose it's easy enough to see if the sear is hanging up on something, just take everything off of see if it moves freely in the rail.

I figured it out after doing another rebuild what was going on. The valve is fine, no bent shear pin etc........ it was a little over oiled but after about 50 shots it worked just fine. First I dumped the pneumatic setup and still had issues. Then I swapped out the rail for a normal mm rail. the gun RT'd like a champ. As it turns out the milling on this new rail I got lets the sear get hooked up on it. I gotta talk to Luke now still a sexy rail tho.

The sear is fine.. I change the rail to a normal MM rail and the gun shoots like a dream. I think if I filed the rail down it would just cause more problems as there is not much metal there and the sear would be flopping around in the rail more.

seat...you mean sear? keep the sear from moving around? it needs some slack to move freely. the space between the sear and rail where the pin is is actually very small, it's just exaggerated the further away from the pin you move. i think if you added washers, it would only bind. if you want a more precise sear setup, i think you'ld have to get an rt pro rail and rt sear.

i just put a lvl 10 carrier washer onto the sear pin (the side that's on top in the above picture), and it did take a lot of the slop out, but the sear was rubbing on the rail a *little* bit (the lower part of the rail that sticks out in the above pic). anyway the lvl 10 washers wouldn't work, as they can't fit flush between the body and frame. i'm not sure where you would find a smaller thin washer like that?

The aluminum sear supports are missing on the rail. There are a couple at the front but that is it. The ones at the back of the sear that hold the back of the sear in place so that it lines up with the body/on-off hole are missing. You need to add some guides on the rail on each side of the sear. JB weld will work for this.

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

The aluminum sear supports are missing on the rail. There are a couple at the front but that is it. The ones at the back of the sear that hold the back of the sear in place so that it lines up with the body/on-off hole are missing. You need to add some guides on the rail on each side of the sear. JB weld will work for this.

The back support that I am talking about is about half way between the sear pin and the back of the sear on the right side of the sear. In your picture, upon closer inspection it looks like if might be there, although it looks like the rail is milled quite deep. Could the back of the sear be coming above the support and getting caught on it such that the sear cannot reset. The back of the sear certainly looks like it is too far to the right.

The back support that I am talking about is about half way between the sear pin and the back of the sear on the right side of the sear. In your picture, upon closer inspection it looks like if might be there, although it looks like the rail is milled quite deep. Could the back of the sear be coming above the support and getting caught on it such that the sear cannot reset. The back of the sear certainly looks like it is too far to the right.

Yup. exactly. I don't think even to file it down will make a difference, it will jut make it worse.