T-Top Blues

Fix That Drip With Some New Strip

As you may have heard by now, here in Southern California, we are on track for breaking the all-time record for the wettest year ever recorded. I guess the Mamas and Papas were right about this place: Maybe we should be building an ark instead of cars.

If your cruiser is feeling more like a capsized boat than a hot rod, it's time to take a look at your weatherstripping. Chances are that most of our beaters, and some of the nicer cars we drive, now have a few years and a few miles on them. That's enough to take its toll on the old rubber's ability to seal right. All this comes not a moment too soon; are my windows up?

Our patient here is an '88 Camaro with a bad case of the leaky T-tops. Luckily Classic Industries has the cure for the T-top blues. Follow along as we write the prescription for this leaky Camaro. You can do this right at home with a minimal amount of tools and a Saturday out in the garage. You are going to need as follows:

*(2) 5oz (the bigger ones) tubes of weatherstrip adhesive, try 3M's adhesive*Body caulking, the pliable black stuff, it looks like rope licorice and is used for windshield installs.*A small piece of #320-#400 grit sandpaper*Any sort of adhesion aid liquid and a cleaner/solvent or wax and grease remover*Weatherstrip release agent and/or a heat gun*Any type of grinder, D.A. sander, or files for trimming the garnish moldings Screwdrivers and you may need a drill

The biggest and most time-consuming part of the procedure was removing all the old adhesive. Just be careful with scraping methods, not only for your safety but to help keep the paint on the car. Removing the adhesive took several hours and a couple of cans of elbow grease (should've put that on the list too). The kit comes with everything else to replace the rubber up the A-pillars, T-tops, and B-pillars.

Just think, when you get done you won't have to carry that towel in your car anymore.

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Here's the kit we got from Classic Industries. Everything looked good and complete. Take a minute to go through it and get acquainted with the product and the instructions. It just might save you some heartache.

Starting with one side of the car, remove the weatherstrip from the top. Underneath are the mounting screws, remove those and remove the retainer. Under that is the original rubber sealing strip or "awning." Remove that as well.

Install the new weatherstrip retainer from the kit. Make sure it is centered and as far out to the door glass side of the panel to contact the inner surface of the plastic "awning." You may need to drill new mounting holes for this if they don't line up with the new parts. Ours lined up just fine.

At the four corners of the top opening it is necessary to build a little "bridge" where the weatherstrip moves from the top to the pillars. This is done with body caulking described in the needs list. Notice ace editor Mike Harrington's Curious George band-aid. As we said, be safe scraping!

Lay the new weatherstripping out on the car to make sure you know how everything goes. After that, start applying the weatherstrip adhesive in all the retainers with quarter size daubs in the corners of the center divider strip.

Install the new weather-strip starting with the top area first. Roll it in a down, in, out motion with the outside edge seating first. Then reattach the butt-joint screws into the new weatherstripping.

Move back to the garnish moldings. Because of the improvement of the design in the replacement weatherstrip compared to the stock items, we need to trim the garnish moldings. Take this corner down on all of them a little bit.

Check out this fully loaded 1970 Chevrolet Camaro which features a small-block LS7 engine, Quadralink rear suspension, a Tremec TKO 600 5-speed trans, and much more! Check out further vehicle specs and pictures at Camaro Performers Magazine. » Read More