Brisket: The versatile cut

Bill Daley, Tribune Newspapers

"Brisket is the Zelig of the food world," says Joan Nathan, the Jewish-American cooking authority and author. "It takes on the flavor of whatever goes with it."

A "mountain" of onions and a bit of tomato flavor the brisket made by Joyce Goldstein, the San Francisco-based chef and author of "Tapas: Sensational Small Plates From Spain." But she notes some cooks are gussying the beef up with dried onion soup mix, chili sauce, honey, cranberry sauce, even Coca-Cola.

"So much stuff," she exclaimed. "And, so many liquids! Brisket can be so juicy, maybe they're cooking with horrible, dry meat."

A more elegant approach is achieved in the two versions here, which take inspiration and flavor from two different cuisines: Mexican and Persian.

Mexican brisket

Prep: 5 minutesCook: 1 hour, 25 minutesServings: 6

Note: Mexican spicing gives a twist to brisket in this recipe from Jamie Geller's "Quick & Kosher Meals in Minutes." If you like, add pieces of zucchini or carrots to the pan during the last 40 minutes of cooking.

Note: This recipe calls for beef brisket but can be made with veal brisket or lamb as originally published in Reyna Simnegar's "Persian Food from the Non-Persian Bride." Serve with rice, mashed potatoes or couscous.

A note on ingredients:Mustard is among items not eaten by Ashkenazic Jews during Passover, according to the New York City-based Orthodox Union.

Saffron could also prove a controversial addition because it may or may not be acceptable depending on custom, noted Rabbi Eli Eleff, rabbinic coordinator for the New York City-based Orthodox Union's kashruth division.

Cumin, dried coriander and ancho chili powder found in the Mexican brisket: The Union says these may require special checking to determine if they are kosher for Passover.