In 2009, when Denise “Dee” LaRussa was a server at Model Diner on Lowell Street, the owner was ready to throw in the towel.

LaRussa couldn’t bear to think that this landmark would go extinct (it was established in 1937), so in 2010 she took over and has been serving breakfast, lunch and the occasional dinner in the Upper Falls neighborhood ever since.

If you’re expecting the aroma of a deep fat fryer to bellow out when you first walk in the door, you’re in for a surprise — this is not your average diner.

While fries and onion rings come out of the fryer perfectly crisp, LaRussa creates almost everything from scratch using fresh produce from local farm markets and breads and meats from familiar hometown suppliers.

To many, Dee’s is a home away from home. Personal requests appear on the daily-rotating specials board.

From soups to burgers to one-pot wonders, if your favorite isn’t available, let her know and she’ll probably include it after perfecting the recipe.

Her homemade approach is demonstrated with her seasonal milkshakes ($4), such as pumpkin. She roasts and purées fresh pumpkin, then blends it with vanilla ice cream and milk.

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It’s finished with a swirl of whipped cream and a dash of pumpkin pie spices. No matter how cold it is outside, this autumnal flavor exudes warmth and comfort.

On the warmer side of a newly revamped menu, the chili ($2.50 cup; $3.25 bowl) is labeled “Award Winning” with good reason.

A cheddar and sour cream garnish balances the sneaky spice that lingers spoon after tasty spoon.

If you prefer smoke to spice, then the split pea and ham soup ($2.50 cup; $3.25 bowl) is a worthwhile choice when available. A hearty, creamy base with a delicate, smoky flavor permeating the background, binds diced ham, carrots and onion with split peas.

A throwback lunch comes in the form of the fried Wunderbar bologna sandwich ($4.95). Layers of the salty lunchmeat with melted provolone and caramelized onions arrive on a knotty Di Paolo’s roll.

This retro sandwich is balanced with naturally sweet, golden-brown onions and a smear of spicy and vinegary mustard.

Obligatory feasts this time of year may put your consumption of turkey, stuffing and cranberry relish over the edge — unless, like me, you can’t get enough of this classic combination.