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Yes we are starting to repeat ourselves a bit, but that's what comes of the bike being launched at different times around the world. Some like Pat have had theirs for 6,000 miles others only 6,000 feet.

I love my higher bars. As I said in my last post it just transformed the bike, I see other commenting about buffeting from the screen and this slight change in position made it go away for me, I also suffer from RSI and an hours riding would make my wrists painful and I'm not as young as I was, so moving the weight off them gave me back ache, I now have a nice comfy loose grip on the bars.

I'm still not 100% sure about the clutch cable, it rubs on the ignition switch, and the outer cable is getting a few marks, it only rubs however on full left lock. I've tried a few things (see last post I re-routed it behind the throttle cable) but think I might have to get a longer clutch cable, about 50mm longer. We have an annual Warrant of Fitness and cables are not supposed to snag, if I get a "jobs worth" at the testing station they may not like it (I could of course just remove them before the test). But Googling has turned up a place fairly close that makes cables so I might get a longer clutch cable made up before the Summer (WOF is due in December). All the other cables etc. are fine. I've looked at re-routing (but not hard) it seems strange the clutch cable runs across the bike so I might be able to route it under the left side of the "tank" (what do we call the plastic battery cover thingy on an F800?). As we have had a very dry Summer and Autumn I've been riding not tinkering, but the wet Winter days are coming so I will get a permanent solution over Winter (Winter for me is about 7-8 weeks).

If you want to practice riding with them take your closed hands and move them up and back so your knuckles are just above and behind where they are normally (i.e up and back about 40mm at 45 degrees), I found it a lot less strain on my back, and my stomach came off the tank, which I hope will also stop the paint getting rubbed.

If you are thinking about it, I would say do it! Also shipping from the USA by Eurotech was reasonable, a company that understand International shipping, as most of us non Americans know, most US based companies have no idea, often quoting stupid shipping amounts. Although I think the guys in Germany (Hornig?) might also do them which may be better for Spain (I think they are made in the EEC).

I have just finished fitting bar risers from MV Motorrad in Germany. The base of my thumbs were aching due to slightly too much weight on them.

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As you can see the bars can be raised a lot - 3 inches vertically but this can be altered with slanting the bars back to be nearer the rider.

Fitting involved moving the clutch cable to the other side of the steering head, moving the throttle cable to be behind some cabling and relocating the brake pipe after disconnecting it at the handlebars (bleeding the system required).

Altogether a little challenging to do on an unfamiliar bike but it worked out OK.

The original position of bars and cables as placed in manufacture, meant that on my bike at least the throttle cable was snagged by the clutch cable on full lock (I cannot remember if it was left or right), causing a rise in revs. In the UK this rise in revs on full lock would cause an MOT failure - I was warned on this with my previous F650 by the MOT tester. It is surprising that the bike should be allowed to leave the factory with this defect.

To change the clutch cable to what I think is the correct side you need to disconnect it at the engine end, pull the cable out and simply rethread it on the same side of the steering head as the clutch lever. It is a little fiddly but does not take long.

"Dunno if anyone interested, just fitted a set of SW-Motech handlebar risers to my F800ST" Anything you or anyone else does to their F800 is of [u]imense intere</u>st. Thanks for info because I have been thinking about this for wife.

I'm seeking more advice on your MV riser... you say you had sore thumbs.. it that after installing ??? or on the std h/b ?.

How have you found them since you posted your blog ?? would you still recommend them... and as a 5'2" female owner of a pink f800st... and blonde... do you recommend I have them installed ???? or could I do it myself... handy with screwdrivers etc.. thanks very much...

Wendy, I've got the MVs, took a couple of attempts to get them 'just right' which included several different angles as well as tweaking the clutch lever assembly etc. Hard to make recommendations without seeing a person as what works for one person might not work for someone else. I knew I wanted/needed some type of bar setbacks as I have right shoulder damage so need to ride as upright as possible. If you are reasonably handy with screwdrivers/wrenches you should have no issues. I didn't have to reroute any of the cables when I finally got the right angles on everything. Maybe some of your companion riders have various setups that you can try.......
BTW I presume that the pink bike is not a factory issue..........

I just got my set of MV risers. I wanted to get the dealer to install but they are backed up with a big Highway Patrol order and cannot get to me until Dec 6. Now I'm thinking about making the install my self. I've taken the handlebars loose and the cables do not come close to reaching.

My biggest fear is how do I disconnect the brake line at the handle bar? I think that someone asked the question about what tool is required. Also, where and how do I bleed? Also, where did you re-route?

Where does the throttle cable need to go? Does it disconnect by the thumb nut at the end of the cable at the throttle?

Where do you disconnect the clutch cable at the engine? I would assume that I back off one or both the nuts on the bracket that's it's mounted into and simply slide the wire out of the little gray catch.

Hi there, I originally asked the same question (see above.) I was able to install the MV Risers myself with thanks to GUS - higher but closer. From F800Depot -"The brake hose is usually long enough. Generally the brake line is removed from the cable ties securing it down and taken out of the grommet hold it. Some do opt for dealer installation or longer brake lines however. When doing this be careful not to stretch or pinch the lines, and make 100% sure that there is no catching and free play for all lines." I read all posts and followed instructions.. after having to buy an 8mm BMW 6star socket to remove the original handlebars and then used a hex spanner to install the MV Risers. I have currently adjusted all the brakes and accelartor brackets to reach easier but I did temporary move the brake fluid reservoir and am using couple of cableties until I get the position perfect.. You can also buy the Lowered Master Cylinder kit if you want.
Hopes this is of some help - Have attached my installed MV pictures. But also check out other threads/posts as there is plenty of other great advice outthere. Cheers

I made the install myself but it took me about 4 hours. I had a problem re-routing the clutch cable and it was difficult going underneath the steering yoke with the brake reservoir assembly.
After all was done, Dec 6, I took the bike to my local BMW dealer to install a new longer front brake cable (2" longer). I was concerned about how tight it was. I had already pinched it one time. They only charged me for the brake cable (approx $70.00) and 1 hour of labor($70.00) and it looks and fits much nicer. My install looks like your install except I turned the hex screws on the risers down. This made it more difficult in that I had to tighen the hex screws first (position check, reposition, etc... until in the correct position) before tighten into the original 8 mm torx.