So, I just gave this stuff a more serious try. I did three full coats on the fenders, hood, mirror caps, headlights, and behind the wheels for a track day. It protected the paint well. It was very cold (for SoCal, 30F) so the coating was a bit brittle. I did see a few chips that went through the coating and damaged the paint.

I drove in the rain and it was fine. Even behind the wheels where the water splashes up. It did get a slightly milky color to it which went away when it dried.

Dry, it peeled off of my hood in one HUGE sheet. It is possible to wash the car and keep it on if you wash the car carefully. If there are exposed edges where it was previously torn, it will come up at those locations. Spraying it with a sprayer or pressure washer will peel it off. I peeled off the entire fenders with just a garden hose sprayer.

As for bits left behind in the cracks and crevices, most of that will spray off easily. I did have a few places that I either missed with the sprayer or wouldn't come off easily that I had to address manually.

You can't see it in the pic but the finish is uneven, has some roller marks, and looks a bit like truck bed liner.

One question, wasn't this stuff hard to remove from the fender gap crevices? I imagine you can't avoid this stuff going into between the gaps and drying up. What did you do to remove it cleanly? was it simply high pressure water?

Never for me. If you go over gaps just keep the coat even so when you peel it off it has a uniform bond. Try to avoid the mesh grill area. It peels off literally like Saran wrap. Pulls off even easier with a pressure washer and soap. I then used a mit to wash the car and hit a few tiny areas. I did some testing in every way possible before putting it on the CGT. This stuff is amazing. The time it saves over using painters tape and the cost of a clear bra. Even if you get an expensive clear bra, it will yellow and get black tire rubber that you have to spend hours buffing out with cleaner wax.

If you have ever watched NASCAR to see the saran wrap like wraps they rip off the windshield to have a clean windshield on a pit stop, this stuff literally comes off like that. Viola! Clean car!

Spraying it on might make it too thin, I had awesome luck using a roller and 2 layers. I might do 3 just for the hell of it because the stuff goes a long ways. Best of all, even if you use the roller you can faintly see up close some roller marks but who cares! 10 feet away its gorgeous matte finish and photos that people sent me of the car from the track day look amazing from on track. Much better than blue painters tape ruining some good photos!

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Current Stable: Some Audi with a V10, Couple of BMW's, one F Car, and one P car. One lonely GT-R with all the Euros.

Never for me. If you go over gaps just keep the coat even so when you peel it off it has a uniform bond. Try to avoid the mesh grill area. It peels off literally like Saran wrap. Pulls off even easier with a pressure washer and soap. I then used a mit to wash the car and hit a few tiny areas. I did some testing in every way possible before putting it on the CGT. This stuff is amazing. The time it saves over using painters tape and the cost of a clear bra. Even if you get an expensive clear bra, it will yellow and get black tire rubber that you have to spend hours buffing out with cleaner wax.

If you have ever watched NASCAR to see the saran wrap like wraps they rip off the windshield to have a clean windshield on a pit stop, this stuff literally comes off like that. Viola! Clean car!

Spraying it on might make it too thin, I had awesome luck using a roller and 2 layers. I might do 3 just for the hell of it because the stuff goes a long ways. Best of all, even if you use the roller you can faintly see up close some roller marks but who cares! 10 feet away its gorgeous matte finish and photos that people sent me of the car from the track day look amazing from on track. Much better than blue painters tape ruining some good photos!

Thanks for your response and what I was hoping to hear. I will do a roller application. I honestly don't even mind if it's lumpy or ugly, as long as it protects. But somehow all of you guys have applied it with a roller and got some pretty good application / even showing results.

Thanks for your response and what I was hoping to hear. I will do a roller application. I honestly don't even mind if it's lumpy or ugly, as long as it protects. But somehow all of you guys have applied it with a roller and got some pretty good application / even showing results.

I use a roller. Im not too anal about the appearance. If you really want appearance and to mask off the car, spray it and all, that sound time consuming. Plus, I would think a misted spray would be thin. When you roll it on thick, the stuff evens out on its out. Try different techniques to find what you like.

The biggest benefit though is the ease of removal and time saved. That's why I roll it on and wash it off. Usually I have had a detail guy come to my house and spend 6+ hours detailing my car after a track day. After the clear bra lasted 2 years, I said the hell with it. This stuff simply is a time saver, and it looks pretty damn good in comparison to blue tap or that road wrap plastic. Its very easy.

Last week, I had my buddy come over and we coated the front of his truck, and the sides of this white toy hauler since he is moving up to San Francisco. A decent 8 hour drive. When he got there he used a pressure washer at a drive through car wash and it removed ALL of the road grime off the side of his trailer and truck. His words were: "You saved me my entire Sunday of cleaning."

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Current Stable: Some Audi with a V10, Couple of BMW's, one F Car, and one P car. One lonely GT-R with all the Euros.

I use a roller. Im not too anal about the appearance. If you really want appearance and to mask off the car, spray it and all, that sound time consuming. Plus, I would think a misted spray would be thin. When you roll it on thick, the stuff evens out on its out. Try different techniques to find what you like.

The biggest benefit though is the ease of removal and time saved. That's why I roll it on and wash it off. Usually I have had a detail guy come to my house and spend 6+ hours detailing my car after a track day. After the clear bra lasted 2 years, I said the hell with it. This stuff simply is a time saver, and it looks pretty damn good in comparison to blue tap or that road wrap plastic. Its very easy.

Last week, I had my buddy come over and we coated the front of his truck, and the sides of this white toy hauler since he is moving up to San Francisco. A decent 8 hour drive. When he got there he used a pressure washer at a drive through car wash and it removed ALL of the road grime off the side of his trailer and truck. His words were: "You saved me my entire Sunday of cleaning."

The only reason that I mentioned any of that was that some people were considering using this stuff cosmetically. As you mentioned, it's not well suited to that.

It won't save you from every rock chip either. I got some new ones for sure. It will save you from tire marks and most rock chips so it's def worth it for the cost and ease of use.

If you guys are looking for a cosmetic longer lasting alternative, look at plastidip clear. It goes on MUCH stronger of a bond. It is however thinner and would not hold up as well at the track for rock chips but it will hold up and give a better finish. The stuff bonds extremely well and would be great if you solely wanted the appearance factor. Holds up to rain, snow you name it.

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Current Stable: Some Audi with a V10, Couple of BMW's, one F Car, and one P car. One lonely GT-R with all the Euros.

The splitter is bolted to the lip. I got the lip severely broken and when I rebuilt it, I glassed some blocks of wood into it for the splitter to mount to. It is also held onto the lip with a heavy bead of silicone for extra security. The lip is held onto the bumper the standard way. I have modified the lip somewhat to allow it to be held more securely to the bumper also.

Seems there is a few good reports of the 5720 but mine didn't go so well. I put it on my new car before a long drive home. The car went through one hard thunder storm and most of it came off. Heavy rain but not really fast driving; 65 down to about 30 MPH. All the leading edges were bare of the coating and strips of the stuff were hanging down elsewhere.

A day later or so I tried to remove the rest in a coin car wash with the pressure washers. More came off but thin areas wouldn't come off. A couple of days later I tried again with another coin wash and still wouldn't come off. Got home and used pressure washer, regular wash and more pressure washer and some areas still had small thin areas of the coating on the paint. I then went to polish with a dual action buffer, cutting polish, tar remover, goo gone, citrus remover and a clay bar. Only way to get the last of it off is with a finger nail or a credit card and I am still finding places I missed.

Possible reason could be the new paint. I feels smooth but maybe with no wax it won't release. Or maybe one coat isn't enough to make a strong film. Some parts came off in sheets but fairly small ones. I don't mind so much it came off in a hard rain but getting it off is the pits.

I also tried it on an older Honda without a fresh wax job and had similar results. Some areas came off in sheets but some thin areas remained and have to be scraped off.

I need to figure what went wrong perhaps no wax or maybe multiple coats are needed, I only did one coat although I tried to get it on somewhat thick.

Stuff costs about $25 dollars a gallon but shipping is high. If I get figured out it may be worth it but right now I wish I hadn't used it.

The only downside to 5720 is because it is water based latex and water-soluble, it deterorate with any rain. Of course this is a good thing for when you wash the car and removes easy. A heavy coating must be used. This stuff works great out here in Nevada and Arizona where it never rains and is a very hot heat. Mine has held up for 3 weeks of back to back weekend track days using 4 coatings. I could forsee it being a problem back east.

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Current Stable: Some Audi with a V10, Couple of BMW's, one F Car, and one P car. One lonely GT-R with all the Euros.

The only downside to 5720 is because it is water based latex and water-soluble, it deterorate with any rain. Of course this is a good thing for when you wash the car and removes easy. A heavy coating must be used. This stuff works great out here in Nevada and Arizona where it never rains and is a very hot heat. Mine has held up for 3 weeks of back to back weekend track days using 4 coatings. I could forsee it being a problem back east.

Finally going to try this, just put 3 coats on (more like 4 with my generous lacquering). Was a breeze to apply, I will never go back to painter's tape if this works flawlessly. Did a test on the door over the weekend and even two coats peels off very readily.

Questions for you:

*When taking it off do you peel what you can off then pressure wash the rest OR do you just use a pressure washer to sheer it off?

*When you say you kept it on for 4 track events, do you mean you left it on the car for about a week's time? If so, is it ok to leave it on that long? I have a couple back to back events myself and would love to leave it on for about 7 days straight.