Firstly, getting into the synth was pretty easy. I've read in other places on the net that they are hard to work on. I'd say this:

If you have a mid level of experience in electronics, then it should be a snap. To remove the entire keyboard assembly you need to remove the bottom cover, Mainboard, Analog I/O board, and the Card Reader assembly, as well as disconnect all the looms and ribbon cables.

Fiddly bits such as the mod-lever, LCD, and power supply can all stay in place.

Surprisingly it is then just four screws to remove the entire keyboard assembly. Below is what is left that you don't touch.

If you need a step-by-step on how to get this far, then I'd say you really should just pay someone else to do it for you.

My one little hint for the experienced, is that the receptacles for the ribbon cables need to be pushed down in order to release them (as opposed to pulled up, which is the norm).

So now I've got the Keyboard assmebly up on the work bench.

Now I can see that the glue is really in bad shape! It has turned into a molten gloopy substance that is slowly dripping into the innards of the synth. Ouch.

Time to dive in further and get the keys off. Now I didn't really take the best pics of this process, so I'll take some better ones when I re-assemble everything and edit this post.

For now what you really need to know is that there is a glued on plastic retaining strip that locks the key mechanisms in place.

I just gently pried it off with a small flat blade screwdriver. Once this is removed you can slide each key forward (about 3mm) to release it. Obviously, white keys need to come out before black keys.

Important: This is like a big jigsaw puzzle. Not all keys are the same. For example different F# keys have different part numbers!!!!!

The key order is as follows, by part number (I'm sure this will save someone's bacon at some stage):

I love the challenge of problems like this - particularly when the problem's someone else's! My first question is whether the already-leaked-out glue has actually damaged or interfered with the operation of any of the things it's dripped onto. If not, just leave those gobs where they are. The only removal technique I might suggest is flicking the stuff off with the tip of a scalpel blade (obtainable from shops that sell stuff for graphic designers), if it works - but if you don't need to do it, don't.

To avoid further glue seepage, time for a bit of lateral thinking. Don't remove it - quarantine it! I notice there's a slight gap between the 'top' (i.e. bottom) of each weight and the lip of the key plastic, and that the weights also seem to be a fairly loose fit. I'd leave the weights in place, but flood the remaining space in the weight cavities with fresh, suitable adhesive - it'll seep down the sides of the weights and give you a layer on the 'top' (bottom - but you'd guessed that), thus sealing both the weights and the dodgy old glue in place. For adhesives, I'd recommend either Power Grab (from DIY stores) - sticks to everything, seems to attack nothing) - this is white (think it's essentially PVA on steroids) and has a sort of creamy consistency, so you could smooth it off along the 'top' (b... - oh, forget it - we both know the keys are upside down at this point) of each weight cavity. For a more subtle adhesive, try Fixogum (rubber solution base, from art/craft shops) - also seems to be non-violent on most materials (test first) - this is clearish and runny, so should flow well - just squirt it in until it fills up flush with the cavity lip. Or maybe use potting compound as used for potting discrete components (if you can still get it).

Does this make some sort of sense?!

(Sorry - just noticed you're in Oz - may be a case of seeking out equivalents for the adhesive brands I recommend - or indeed these same brands may be available where you are.)

Unfortunately the location of the globs where the glue has dripped causes sticky key action, so I definitely need to clean it up.

We are definitely on the same page though, as I've already sourced a really great pouring resin to 'contain' the offending glue. I am only going to take this approach as a last resort though, as I have 2 concerns regarding this.

The first being, I am not sure what kind of glue was used by Roland in the first place, and have no idea how it would react with the new resin (if at all). I'd hate to do all that work to find that it will fail again over time.

The second, and most important reason, is the delicate balance of the key weight and springs. If I add a gram or 2 of extra adhesive, I am not certain that the feel of the keys will remain true.

I just received a call from Roland Australia whilst writing this post, and they have advised me that they will sell me an entire new keyboard assembly for $250AU (around 90 pounds). This includes a full key set, metal chassis, aftertouch strip, contact boards, and rubber key membranes. It all comes pre assembled, ready to screw in. This is cost price and they'll do it once for every unique keyboard serial number due to the manufacturing fault. Apparently these are newly designed and manufactured replacement parts, addressing all common faults with the D70 - and therefore being far superior to the originals with regards to reliability and strength.

This seems like a pretty good deal to me, so I think I'm just going to order the parts.

Couldn't resist responding to such an interesting-stroke-annoying problem (probably depends on your mood!). That spares deal does sound like the way to go. I had dealings with their Roland UK counterparts some years back and found their willingness to supply parts to be an absolute joy - they'd often chuck in the relevant circuit diagram/service manual without even being asked, and always at no extra charge.

If you do opt for the glue/resin route after all, I'd just add that Power Grab seems to be highly non-reactive (think it's actually water-based, given that it'll resist anything except lots of water) and oddly weightless - sort of the mass and consistency of thick yogurt.

First, I want to ask that you NOT discard your original epoxy contaminated keys. If you won't be continuing this project (and chose to buy a replacement keyboard instead), I'd LOVE to have them to continue my experimentations into this Roland "Red Plague" epoxy problem.

Along with the above menntioned U-Series and D-Series keyboards from Roland, you can add the Roland JD-800...all share the same keys, springs, keyboard frame and a few other items. They don't share the same keyboard contact board (the green flexi thing) that underlies the grey rubber bubble contacts.

The differences in the green contact board between models is in how they terminate. So you can't simply take a keyboard bed from a Roland U-20, for example, and toss it into a Roland JD-800...they won't mate up correctly.

SO...if you can spare them (and I'd pay whatever you need for cost and shipping) I'd LOVE whatever keys, weights (connected or disconnected) and springs you have left.

Okay -- for those in the future atempting a fix, this is the route I've taken. It's time consuming and messy, but it worked.

First, the remaining red Roland epoxy appears to have broken down to the point where serious chemicals that can damage plastic won't be required on the plastic key portions.

I removed all 76 of my keys. First I sorted all the fallen or already separated weights into those plastic trays left over from microwave meals (Stoffer Lasagna in this case, I believe) for future cleaning (they're a mess). Lay them out separately so they don't stick together...they don't adhere to the tray very well, but they stick together like crazy.

Then the second problem was how to remove the weights that HADN'T fallen. The epoxy is in bad shape, but it's still plenty to make removal seem impossible.

So...I turned up the water heater in my home. When it was scalding hot, I ran this hot tap water over the weights still in place. This certainly loosened the epoxy.

Then I carefully used a small flat-blade jewlers screwdriver to work the weights out of the white keys. Many simply started falling out. The black keys took a bit more time and a pair of small needle-nosed pliers to pull out after heating.

So...after all the weights were out and laid out in these trays, I turned my attention to the biggest problem. This is getting the remaining epoxy off the plastec keys.

I found that the areas where the weights were located were, by design, perfect little "troughs" for soaking. So I tried several different commercial cleaners.

NOTE: I didn't soak the entire key! I filled the areas where the weights previously resided with the chemical cleaner.

First I used a household cleaner/degreaser (I used a product called "Fantastic" in this case). It works slowly and you must get in there with a flat blade to remove the residue as it breaks down. I scooped up lots at first and wiped it off onto paper towels. MESSY and still rather STICKY!

It didn't quite do the entire job as clean as I wanted, so I then soaked the "troughs" with a household cleaner CONTAINING BLEACH (I used "Clorox Clean-Up Cleanser WITH BLEACH" in a spray bottle). This really breaks down the remaining epoxy and removes much of it's remaining adhesive properties. It also turns the epoxy to a almost opaque gray color. This is easy to remove with a small flat blade screwdriver and the keys look brand new with no sign the weights ever existed. This takes repeated soakings, so don't expect to get them looking new the first time...I kept at it until they were perfect.

NOW...The weights still had LOTS of this epoxy and the cleaners didn't do a good job...so I tried Acetone because plastics were not involved. It's messy and you need gloves and SERIOUSLY A PAIN IN THE REAR. I only did about a dozen weights this way. Much more trouble that it's worth.

So, I took a second dozen weights down to my local auto garage repair facility where they have a 5-gallon bucket of carborator/parts cleaner (you drop a soaking tray into the bucket).

I left the weights in the bucket over the weekend and by Monday you could easily wipe off the remaining epoxy with a shop towel.

So I continued soaking the rest with similar results. They come out beautifully CLEAN!

Currently, I'm looking at 76 perfect keys lined up and a mayonaise jar full of clean weights ready for reinstall.

I'm just pondering what epoxy I will use for the final step right now.

If anyone else has traveled this road...PLEASE let me know of your experiences!

Okay, I am official really interested before I decided to retie my D70. It seems the glue really jacks up the black keys and in my case, has caused some intermittent triggering. As much as I like the D70 for the 76 keys and fat sounds, it is a bit tired being pre-general midi, but I have mine apart and am waiting for any more clues on how this project went. I see lots of bombs waiting like reassembling the pesky little springs under each key. More importantly, I would be interested in any alternatives to getting the glue out. Carb cleaner is probably a bit abusive for the keys themselves.

Sonarguitar wrote:...I'm just pondering what epoxy I will use for the final step right now.

If anyone else has traveled this road...PLEASE let me know of your experiences!

My wife inherited a Roland XP-80 with the dreaded flowing Red Epoxy syndrome. I had it apart some time ago to reset the weights in approximately 6 keys. Since then, over a dozen key weights have fallen out.

Things I learned along the way: The weights will fall out if you apply gentle heat from a hair dryer to the weights that are in the process of falling. You can remove the epoxy from metal parts of the keyboard using heat (hair dryer) and a cotton rag (t-shirt).

When I worked on this project before, I mistakenly thought the key weights were held in with a "hot glue" material that had simply melted in the heat of being transported in a hot automobile trunk in South Florida (95°F outside air temp, inside the trunk it might get to 140°F) However, this has proven not to be the case. As Sonarguitar notes above, the glue material used by Roland is actually an epoxy which is breaking down.

At my local hardware/home center store, I have located a two part epoxy which is formulated for use on plastics. It comes in a side-by-side syringe dispenser that measures the material in a 50/50 ratio. I expect my next effort will utilize this epoxy to reset the key weights in my wife's XP-80. My second choice would be a water soluble all purpose glue, similar to childrens school glue (known as Elmer's Glue in the USA). My third choice would be a low temperature hot glue applied with a glue gun.

Glad to see I'm not the only one curious enough to open the case and get sticky in search for the cure.

Question: If you store the keyboard with the keys upside down, can you keep more weights from falling out and more epoxy from dripping on everything? (aside from the issue of deforming the springs and deforming the chassis because it is not sufficiently supported).

Sorry to bump this up with a couple of questions that are relatively trivial compared to what most here are doing replacing whole key assemblies. I have an XP-80 as well and as you probably guessed, had the same problem with the epoxy.

Roland US actually did most of the repair for me and did a very good job replacing the key assembly. However, they didn't really deal with some of the more cosmetic issues and there is still some goop on the exterior of the unit - mostly the metal area right under the keys as well as a little on the top and a lot on the power cord itself (the keyboard was in a gig bag with the cord on top of the keys when the epoxy started leaking and I hadn't taken it out of the bag for an extended period).

I got out the hair dryer and a dry rag after Goo Gone failed to do anything, but am wary of getting water too close to the unit and also a little unsure of the wisdom of heating the rubber(?) power cord to get the goo off. Do I just need to be patient with the warm air? It seems to take quite a while to get small patches warm enough to melt the epoxy.

I purchase XP-80 in 1997, The first time happen the key weight dorp down in 2000 April.
Since then i no more use my XP-80, and re-pack in the origin box save in the garage.
recently re-open the box, all the key weight drop down.....

I find the way to clean the epoxy as following;
soak in the NaOH(caustic soda)diluted solution for 60-120min.

i got perfect result. The "red epoxy" melt slowly by slowly, then all gone.

Absolutely correct!!! Caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) diluted with h2o will disolve the glue and maintain the plastic keys and lead weights. Thankyou my friends you have saved an ep9 played by a very close friend recently gone. Disolve the resin in sodium hydoxide solution and then rinse with fresh water. The black key weights will naturally fall out - resoak them in solution to clean. Remove white keys from solution and then apply boiling water to weight recess. Pry weights carefully out with fine flat blade screwdriver. Resoak in solution to remove residual resin. Wash with soap water and dry. Thankyou to all contributants to this thread,

Interesting thread,I had the labourous job of doing this with my JD800 last year,Wish I had seen this before about the Caustic soda,I used Isopropyl alcohol to remove the Epoxy,and a lot of elbow grease and soaking for sure!!!,thankfully most of the epoxy had stayed intact apart from a few drips here and there on the metal chassis under the keys,the key contacts were ok and I managed to get most of the glue off the keys

I used a small Blob of superglue on each corner of the weight and simply refixed them Inside the keys,since then have not had so much as a single movement in the weights so far so good

It seems that Roland still use this Epoxy(or tree sap,at least its almost as annoying to remove as TS)I noticed its fitted to the keys on my V synth GT as well and also there is a similar type of resin fitted to the Keys on the DSI prophet 08 as well