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Topic: intake (Read 5074 times)

Also before I put my intake on it has been recommended to put a little silicone around the water jackets. I am using Felpro print-o-seal gaskets with the blue trim around the ports on a black gasket. It has some of the blue around the water jackets as well. Is it still ok to put some silicone around the water jackets on this gasket?

Yea I'm torn on using the cork end gaskets or just laying down a whole bead of silicone. The last time I did this engine I used the rubber end gaskets with a little silicone and when I took off the intake for this recent event, they were all twisted and shredded.

I like the cork, but have not had a problem with the rubber. The secret is to put a real thin amount of sealer. Any more will cause the seals to push out or get distorted. A real thin amount on each side with a gob on the 4 corners or dab, I should say, like Jano says too.

I always put sealer around the water passages, and a thin dab at the bottom of the intake ports just to make sure they won't suck any oil from the lifter valley. I've been using just silicone on the rails for years. It doesn't push out and once set, doesn't blow out or leak. I like Permatex Ultra Black. My 2 cents and good luck!

I've had good luck with all of the above, all good advice. It's boils down to proper tightening sequence on the intake bolts + torque/ "feel"....not so much a fan of cork on intakes. With the newer 1 piece oil pan gaskets ,and impregnated valve cover gaskets, cork is history for me. Permatex Black, good stuff.

After leaking cork and plastic I went silicon on the ends. They sell orange and silver to match your block or aluminum intake. If you want to look factory and don,t know you parts history just dry set the intake and use a feeler guage to check clearances. I someone milled your heads or cylinder surfaces when you tighten the intake it might squeeze the end gaskets out due to no clearance.

Great article John. I didn't used the sealer on the bolts so I will go back and take them out one by one. I have to take 4 of them out anyway as I didn't install the alternator mount and need to repaint the wire stands. I have Teflon sealant I used for the head bolts, is that OK?

I always used the cork gaskets with the 3M yellow glue along with some 3M silicone sealer that I got when I worked on C5's in the Air Force. I spread the glue on the bulkhead rails and on one side of the cork gasket and let it skin and then set the cork gasket on once it got real tacky . Would let that firm up for a while before installing the intake. Used the same 3M glue on the water jackets and the gasket engine side and let that tack up too. A few hours later I would do the intake side of the gaskets and the intake surface with the same 3M yellow glue and let it skin until it was tacky, added a little of the 3M silicone sealer at the intake, head, and bulkhead rail corners and carefully set the intake on and tighten it up per my Motors Manual. Worked great and never leaked. A friend turned me onto the the Permatex Ultra Black in 83 and use it exclusively now. No cork or rubber on the bulkhead rails. Cleans up really nice once cinched down. I go back with a single edge razor blade and shave off the excess once it's cured. Looks decent.