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Add an angle cube to be sure of the angle. Make sure the suction cups are well set. Make sure the guide arm is fixed tight. You don't want to start over when you round the ege after it loosened. Put tape on the knife and blade table to avoid scratches.

This is a great topic for a user like me as I'm both a noob sharpener and EP user. I've only worked on about 10 knives so far and the first 6 or so gave me varied enough results to be extremely frustrating (as well as concerns that I screwed up the edge on a very expensive folder).

My "terminology" is likely not industry accurate but I hope you can get the gist of what I mean.

I've watched many youtube vids about using the EP and while there are some good tips out there, I haven't seem too many which address proper technique when it comes to stroke. Many users seem to sharpen with the short multiple up/down strokes from heel to tip method. This is what I tried at first but was finding very uneven results. With my last few knives I've been doing 15-20 full and even passes from heel to tip and have been much more excited with the results.

I know most members here are in the chef-type community, so I have a bit different philosophy of use as a tactical blade, folder/EDC pocket user (mostly based on military use). However, it seems like proper sharpening technique should be the foundation of use regardless of blade type and function....?

At any rate, I'm happy to have this forum as a resource as well as any tips that you all can offer.

Also, I can't say enough about the service and support that CNTK and Mark offers both before and after the sale.

Best,

Trapper

Dr. T

Post subject: Re: Tips for the Edge Pro

Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 4:14 pm

Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 3:50 pmPosts: 16

I glued a Neodynium magnet under the front edge. This really helps hold the knife in place. http://www.magnet4less.com/index.php?cPath=1_5 I also duck tape the front edge to protect my blade. Other than that, I follow the manufactures instructions. Don't stop until you get a burr along the entire edge and are able to get it on both sides before you move on to the next finer stone. I should mention here that once you have this burr, you need to remove it by going very light or using the hard felt. Otherwise you just sharpen the burr and not the edge. At 600 and up, you are polishing the edge, so this does not apply. Go through your stones and then strop for as many levels as you want.

noneck180

Post subject: Re: Tips for the Edge Pro

Posted: Fri May 11, 2012 12:20 am

Joined: Fri May 11, 2012 12:17 amPosts: 143

Dr.T what size magnet did you order..can you post a pic of where you attatched it?

Thanx NN

Slickthedog

Post subject: Re: Tips for the Edge Pro

Posted: Fri May 11, 2012 2:49 pm

Joined: Wed May 02, 2012 2:31 pmPosts: 1

I am new to this site and I hope I am not repeating that which everyone already knows.I've been using the edge pro for about a year now. I, too, was rather frustrated by early results -- some were nice and sharp and some seemed to get duller the more I sharpened. None were close to "scary sharp". They are now and my left arm is embarrasingly bald from proving just how sharp they are. Here is what I am doing differently:1. I can now detect the burr on high carbon steel. The instructional booklets and videos made out that finding the burr was damned easy. Perhaps for some. Not me. To "teach myself", I began using a very sharp, very flexible surgeon's scapel. When you drag it lightly over the edge you can very easily feel the burr -- a little "tick". Unless you can develop the burr you cannot properly sharpen the knife.2. Very light pressure when sharpening. Take the extra time. It makes a really big difference.3. Don't sharpen the edge too long. When you have developed the burr, stop -- after that you are simply removing steel for no good reason.

Dr. T wrote:I glued a Neodynium magnet under the front edge. This really helps hold the knife in place. http://www.magnet4less.com/index.php?cPath=1_5 I also duck tape the front edge to protect my blade. Other than that, I follow the manufactures instructions. Don't stop until you get a burr along the entire edge and are able to get it on both sides before you move on to the next finer stone. I should mention here that once you have this burr, you need to remove it by going very light or using the hard felt. Otherwise you just sharpen the burr and not the edge. At 600 and up, you are polishing the edge, so this does not apply. Go through your stones and then strop for as many levels as you want.

This is an interesting idea. I actually have magnetic backings from when I attach them to the balsa strop pads. I could easily cut these to size and fit them on the machine in place of the blue painters tape (you could also put more tape right over it if you wanted to. That would make the knife a little more "sticky" to the platform. I could sell them as an add on for .50 or something like that....

Thats great Mark, my EP shipped today...lol The magnet has to be fairly strong to go from underneath the shapening table, not as strong under tape on top of the table. I do think it would help for sure. Kind of wondered why the knife couldn't be clamped specially smaller ones..

Dr. T

Post subject: Re: Tips for the Edge Pro

Posted: Fri May 11, 2012 9:39 pm

Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 3:50 pmPosts: 16

I use a 1/2 x 1/2 inch N42 magnet with 13.5 pounds of pull. Their part number is NB020. It's a pretty strong pull even through the plastic, but it holds the blade where I want it. You could get by with anything 8-12 pounds too and any shape that will fit the space under the front edge. I will try to get a picture.

Mark- I don't think the magnetic backings are strong enough, and would change the angle unless you coated the entire top plate. This may become an issue when you sharpen knives of different sizes. I will try to remember to send you one next time I send you something.

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