96 xp ?'s and advice

Ok, I have an XP. basic jist of it is I got it for free because the ski would run fine but shut off after hitting a jump. The PO eventually replaced the engine, until the stalling became permanant. It didnt want to run, and I got the headache for free. My first mistake that i jumped at taking it apart without even putting a battery in it to see what happens. So i got my wrenches and took off mag cover expecting to see a broken trigger, but all seems ok. I wanted to test it before reinstalling the cover, but couldn't find resistence values I should expect to see on a good trigger. All you guys that have experience with a ski shutting off over jumps please chime in. I would also like to change the oil lines from oil pump to carbs. What should I use, and where can I get it. This ski has the gray fuel lines, and they need to go as well. What is a good replacement fuel line that can handle premix. I run all my ski's with the oil pump, and slight premix to cover me in the event of an oil pump malfunction. Thanks for your help. P.S. I have another 96 XP that i use all the time, so if you can guide me on my no spark issues, I have a running known good parts tester. Thanks all

No spark has a lot of options. Check the ground wire from the battery to the engine, they break at the stock location all the time, relocate it to the back of the engine just above the PTO flywheel cover. Also check all the other grounds, there are one or two inside the black box by the battery and make sure that little black wire from the harness to the battery is still good. The eye connectors on that little wire sometimes break clean off at the crimp and the round part. If nothing then, test the stator, it's easy to do. If it's ok, check the fuses in the gray box containing the MPEM. If the fuses are good, start pulling connectors and testing the wires at each end to make sure there isn't an internal break or one just plainly broken, or a bad connector.

I've seen wires push out backwards from connectors, makes diagnosis a world of fun The last options I can think of are test the start stop switch for continuity, the D.E.S.S. lanyard may be malfunctioning, or in a worst case scenario the MPEM is toast. It does happen, happened to mine a couple of years ago. As for the one with the wave jumping condition, it sounds like there's a ground that's just barely hanging in there and the impact of landing is shaking it free from ground. Check all the grounds on that one too, post any updates of what you've done/tried and the results.

Thanks for the replies. I'll have alot of checking to do, but might not get to it till next week. how do I check.7 volts. Is that while cranking? I thought you maybe had to check the ohms of the trigger itself. I expected to find a broken wire at the trigger, whichis why I pulled it apart. I want to make sure the trigger is ok before I put it together. Also, where is a good place to get the oil injection hose. Should I just get it from doo?

I would think any small engine rental/repair shop would carry Tygon fuel hose in sizes from 1/8" - 3/8". I've found Tygon to be a better brand of hose because it stays soft and pliable all the time. The typical clear vinyl hose will get solid and become a nightmare to remove from fittings. As for the coil, having never measured the voltage output of one before I just went by the resistance values to tell me if there is a problem. I'm going to assume that like any other coil I've ever measured there should be no resistance higher than 0.3 ohms after taking into account the internal impedence of your meter. But don't listen to me (unless you want to lol), get yourself a manual for any electrical diagnostic proceedures and values.

I would think any small engine rental/repair shop would carry Tygon fuel hose in sizes from 1/8" - 3/8". I've found Tygon to be a better brand of hose because it stays soft and pliable all the time. The typical clear vinyl hose will get solid and become a nightmare to remove from fittings. As for the coil, having never measured the voltage output of one before I just went by the resistance values to tell me if there is a problem. I'm going to assume that like any other coil I've ever measured there should be no resistance higher than 0.3 ohms after taking into account the internal impedence of your meter. But don't listen to me (unless you want to lol), get yourself a manual for any electrical diagnostic proceedures and values.

Thanks for the info. I think I have to start from square one. I checked the trigger, and I believe it to be ok. I will reassemble, and see what I get. I jumped the gun in disassembly, so I will keep you posted. Thanks all

No spark begin with the CDI and coil. The CDI is in the front grey electrical box and the coil is in the rear black box. If the ground cable was bad then the boat would not even turn over. That is the ground for the whole engine. I put mine on one of the exhaust manifold openings. In stock form they are on the bottom of the engine and if you get water in your hull they begin to fall apart and break off.

I made the mistake one time of putting the ground wire that goes to the coil on the positive side on the battery and that fried the CDI and coil. My boat would turn over all day but no spark. I tested the cdi and it proved to be fried. I replaced both units and BAM it fired up. There is a website that has all the values for the cdi unit so you can test it. I think it is on seadoosource.com.

Im betting that your mpem is alright but check the fuses in the front electrical box.

If the ground cable was bad then the boat would not even turn over. That is the ground for the whole engine.

Mine ran with a bad ground for a little while. It was hit and miss until it finally broke off. If there is enough of an arc when you try to start it, sometimes it will draw it's self against the bolt or block (whichever is closer to the cable) to make a ground until it breaks free again...or until it's final break lol. Then you're a sitting duck