Contributed Comments

Comments: The difficulty of the crux can be greatly reduced by moving right to the "Branching Out" corner for a few moves which seems a reasonable way to go, but definitely a bit off the bolt line; I'd put it in the 5.11- range.

Comments:Space Shuttle seems the best approach, it goes directly to the belay anchors. One could also do the best part of Luna Lumina by starting on the first few bolts of The Skyline Arete, after climbing KSR to approach its belay station.

When the splitter tips crack ends and you have to step left to the next thin crack, it's pretty committing.

I didn't clip The Skyline Arete bolts, but they were kind of tempting and within reach. The crack is near-perfect parallel, so the tiny cams (#0 TC... more >>

Comments: Think you'd need 2 ropes to rap off from pitch 4, and it might be more straight-forward to go down Voodoo Child rather than Mountain Momma. Is 1 70m rope ok? Anyone know more? I guess that info might be useful for people bailing off for unplanned reasons as well. I'd kind of thought about doing 2 climbs on Torreon but never tried. Maybe in September..

We recently rapped in Top Flite with a single 60m rope (3 rappels). Shouldn't need to leave gear, except at the top anchor, which you could retrieve on the way out. We replaced the cord on the anchors. The last rap isn't ideal (wiggly pin + fixed nut); we backed that up with a non-weighted cam, then cleaned it when we climbed out.

If rapping S&S, would need to leave gear for the 2nd rappel (one bolt only at the top of p2), and 70m rope needed.... more >>

Comments: Approach options: 1) Walk down the main Echo Canyon gully, hugging the left side, passing Techweenie Buttress. Not too bad. Fastest way to walk to the base. 2) Walk down the gully just left (north) of Big T. Not too bad, but more bushwhacking than (#1). Fastest way to walk to the base from the top. 3) Rappel in by Big T (4 raps off 2-bolt anchors, with 70m rope). Need to leave long runner/cordelette on only the highest rappel point; all others are fully equipped. Good if you don'... more >>

Comments: Great climb. To find the start, look for a bolt 15' up; it's on the big wall to the right of the Bush Shark Spire tower (not on the tower itself, and before you turn the corner into the side canyon with Westeron Wynde).

Comments: -Pitch 1 starts a bit to the right of where shown in the Sandia Rock photo. -Pitch 3 roof is sketchy!* -I missed the traverse right on pitch 4. Did the 10b variation in Sandia Rock, straight up to the roof, turned it on the left, then up a tree and a higher tree. We thought that roof was really fun! And easier than 10b. Some loose rocks up at the high tree (be very careful*). -Overall, I felt this was a pretty fun climb, with some very nice crack climbing. However, it has intricate route-find... more >>

Comments: Cleaned up by now, in my opinion, though still not immaculate. Way cleaner than 5 years ago. Devious in places, with multiple cruxes. The most sustained & hardest overall climb at this cliff, well worth doing if this is your grade.

Comments: Admittedly I bouldered/solo'ed it when I climbed and posted this one. The crux is near the ground and crashpads probably protect it better than anything else (other than a TR). The upper part is easy but high enough to get hurt. I don't know if it counts as a boulder problem or a TR climb? (I just posted as per the book).

Comments: "Cowgirl Pump" (5.11a R). One guidebook shows it left of the "Bats in the Belfry" crack, the other shows it to the right. It's supposed to have a bolt on the steep part, which I looked for, but didn't see. Anyone climbed this and can point me in the right direction?

Comments: I thought this was a great climb, one of the best cracks at TP. The scramble off the top of Middle Rock adds to the experience. The alternate finish to the left, on the chickenheads and jugs, is really fun, though a little harder (5.9 or 5.10-).

Comments: 6' of easy climbing to a good rest, then a great, sequential, 3-move V3 boulder problem at the 2nd bolt, probably harder for short people, another good rest, then the 5.10+ finish of Weenies.

Comments: Icarus is the most obvious & straight-up line of the 3 climbs sharing its start. The first pitch is high quality, 105', and a good warm-up for the Solar Cave climbs. You can rappel from the pitch 1 anchors with a single 60m rope, but it might not reach if lowering through the draws. A 70m would work.

I didn't try the 2nd pitch because I thought I might not be able to get down with a single 60m rope, based on the length listed. But it looks shorter than p1 in the photos & bolt count, so pleas... more >>

Comments: I think the 4th bolt is in the ideal place if you clip it off the 1st jug after the crux; if it was much lower you would probably just clip it off the same holds used to clip the 3rd bolt, which is at waist level at that time and takes minimal effort. The best beta through this section is to do the crux move left first, bump the left to the jug, and clip off that, which seems reasonable once you get past thinking about the boulder behind you to the right. It's sort of tempting to try... more >>

Comments: In April 2012, 3 bolts were 1/4" (one of them was the last bolt a few feet right of the anchor, which isn't as important as the others); the other 4 were bigger. I think the crux was protected by a more modern bolt, but don't remember for sure.

Comments: This climb's a tougher version of Crimp Chimp, steep and relentless with no distinct crux. Despite a scary 2nd clip off the smallest hold on the climb (consider stick-clipping this), and a demoralizing finish due to the difficulty of clipping the chains while pumped, this climb is great if you enjoy steep climbing. I'm not sure its much more tweaky or painful than other mid/upper-5.12s at the Dungeon.

Comments: Stickclip bolt 2 if 12a is hard for you, especially if you don't have the beta dialed. The technical crux (just before bolt 2) appears to be somewhat height/reach-dependent, and the 2nd clip can be dicey sometimes. Angle right after clipping the 3rd bolt to stay on Crimp Chimp, which starts what is generally the redpoint crux. Although most find it a bit more difficult than the other popular 12-'s, Against Nature and Moat Jump, strong people who regularly climb steep stuff ma... more >>

Comments: 2 useful holds were recently broken off at the upper (slab) crux at the 2nd-to-last bolt, making the climb somewhat harder (edited 9/2014, as a 2nd hold just broke recently)

Other beta: This is another one at the Dungeon on which you don't want to blow it before clipping the 2nd bolt, and it's fairly sequency to get there, so one may want to stick-clip b2 if you don't feel confident up to that point.

The 1st crux clip (b4) is considerably easier if a draw (long is better) is already hanging.