Hey guys, I'm going to be getting my first bike next spring and I'm leaning towards an SB66 right now. I'm trying to come up with a build for one, but I don't know much about all the components yet so I need some help. I'm 6'2, 200lbs and looking to do basic AM with both climbing and descending and my budget is $4000. The frame locally is $1700 so I'm trying to figure out what sort of build I can do for $2300. Anyone willing to help me get an idea?

Have you considered going with a stock build? They are are hard to beat for value. Those dont suit folks with strong feelings about many individual components, but that doesn't sound like you (yet). I just got the Enduro plus and aside from the wheels and crank I'm fine with the spec considering the cost. The crank I was able to swap out at no cost, and I'm guessing the wheel upgrade will cost me about $200 (selling stock wheels and buying what I want). Just a thought. Not as fun as picking out each part, but for a given budget you might end up ahead.

I wonder if the Torque values seeming higher than expected to you perhaps may be attributed to some of the fasteners being Titanium?

Yet there are no changes between the manuals (2011-2013) as far as torque values are concerned on the SB66

I broke two of the Titanium M6x1x12mm shock bolts already torquing them at 90in/lbs so I just torque them at 70in/lbs. Many other SB66 owners have broke the same screws also and some have switched to stainless steel. I'm just wondering if the specified 90in/lbs on the manual is really mandatory.

So just want to verify that I have the rear hyrolic line run correctly. I was just going over the bike now after the first ride on Sunday and noticed some markings on the Switch piece. The line also had some rubbings on it. Is this normal, is there a better way to run that line?

... I was just going over the bike now after the first ride on Sunday and noticed some markings on the Switch piece. The line also had some rubbings on it. Is this normal, is there a better way to run that line?

I have a hard time imagining a better hose routing, but had the same problem on my SB95.

My fix was to zip-tie the hose to the vertical member of the rear triangle, so it wouldn't move at all.

Long time lurker, first time poster. I demo'd a SB66c with full XTR and Fox 34 fork before building my bike. After the demo I knew I wanted a SB66 but didn't have $7000+ for the carbon xtr version. I was able to build mine for about $4000. Everything on it was new and I got the fork second hand but it was a takeoff from a new bike and the steer tube was uncut.

This was my first bike build and I was able to put everything together without any professional help other than youtube videos. I bought the frame from Competitive Cyclist (on special for $1760 with CTD shock) and most of the parts from Jenson. A lot of the parts were discounted b/c they didn't include original packaging so that helped on the price a lot.

I'm installing a Bionicon V.02 chain guide this weekend and will report back on how it performs. Sorry for the crappy pic but I haven't had a chance to take some good ones. I have about 5 rides on the bike and I'm very happy with it. My last bike was a 2009 Fuel EX 8 that I owned for 3 years so that's all I really have to compare it to.

Has anyone used a chainstay protector or tape to protect the painted part of the upper and lower chainstay on the drive side? My chain doesn't cause a problem but sometimes the sole of my shoe will rub and it's surprisingly hard to get the scuff marks off especially on white paint. My temporary solution is to wrap black electrical tape around the area where my shoe rubs.

Frameskin can help there

Yes, in fact I developed a kit that protects the frame from this exact issue (boot scuffing and other general chips/scrapes etc). Cheers Alan

Originally Posted by mblittle

Has anyone used a chainstay protector or tape to protect the painted part of the upper and lower chainstay on the drive side? My chain doesn't cause a problem but sometimes the sole of my shoe will rub and it's surprisingly hard to get the scuff marks off especially on white paint. My temporary solution is to wrap black electrical tape around the area where my shoe rubs.

Just got done with the mid-winter tear down and rebuild here, upgraded to XT Shadow+ rear and a Fox DHX RC4 coil (300lb) in the process. I wish it would get a little better around here for a ride. Hoping on getting out on Monday to try out the new goods. Current weight now is 32 lbs and with a 120lb rider I'm pretty happy with that.

Bike all done, no more upgrades (we all know that's not true). X-Post All Mountain.

I have seen your bike out and about a couple of times and that trail you are about to go down at Kate Reed is awesome for this type of bike. Mine is set up a bit different but rips the new trail at Trevallyn.

I have seen your bike out and about a couple of times and that trail you are about to go down at Kate Reed is awesome for this type of bike. Mine is set up a bit different but rips the new trail at Trevallyn.

Yeah awesome. There aren't many of them around here. Have you got one of the other black ones from Sprung? It works pretty well for the trails around here, wish I had a set of Fox 34s though! What are you running on yours?