I also asked k|ngp|n if we could get an updated 1080 Classy Voltage Tool; which he kindly helped with. :-)

I also discussed how I wanted to prolong my enjoyment of the hobby by beginning a gradual 'n00bs adventure into cooling'; beginning with a:-Water Chiller
before moving onto:-Subzero Water Chillerthen eventually more hazardous LN2 in the future.

My journey is currently at the Sub-zero Water Chiller phase.

Last night I finished a little mod to the electrics on my Water Chiller to bypass the thermostat; Chiller now runs regardless of water temp.

Ease of removal is my no.1 priority. Most material I've found does not mention removal!

Wondering if anyone with more experience than me (whose maybe tried a few different techniques) could advise on this?

A million thanks :-)

If anyone is interested in my project give me a PM or even reply here and I'm happy to provide details or any assistance :-)

I quite enjoy discussing the topic too and discussing overclocking in general :-)

I was also a instrumental towards getting us EVGA 1080 Classy full-cover waterblock support;
and have since written a guide to even further improve temps by altering the thermal pad arrangement from stock.

What have you done for tubing and around the CPU? I run chilled water on a bench table and use vaseline on the back of the socket thick gasket around the block etc. I think with a full WB you'll have to cover the whole card in LET or similar . That's a lot of are for condensate to build up.

Back in 2001 or so before I started using LN2, I used a dual phase change setup on the gpu and cpu. I should dig around for pics..LET was what I used and It ran perfect everyday for hours and hours with constant temps -45c ish on gpu.

I think in your situation LET would be perfect. Put two coats on the card starting between the vrm and gpu and go all the way to the end of he card (I/O side). Do this on front and back and you should be good.
Great work btw..

What have you done for tubing and around the CPU? I run chilled water on a bench table and use vaseline on the back of the socket thick gasket around the block etc. I think with a full WB you'll have to cover the whole card in LET or similar . That's a lot of are for condensate to build up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by k|ngp|n

Back in 2001 or so before I started using LN2, I used a dual phase change setup on the gpu and cpu. I should dig around for pics..LET was what I used and It ran perfect everyday for hours and hours with constant temps -45c ish on gpu.

I think in your situation LET would be perfect. Put two coats on the card starting between the vrm and gpu and go all the way to the end of he card (I/O side). Do this on front and back and you should be good.
Great work btw..

My little research into adding 4 extra (correctly sized) thermal pads really makes a difference now with more of the card getting contact with full-cover block.
It compensates for the increased heat caused by the Liquid Tape on VRM.

Insulating around CPU block:

Self adhesive Armaflex then sanded down to prevent 'contact' being affected.

Due to the full cover block the excellent temps are extending to memory, combined with the updated 1080 Classified voltage tool I'm getting to +925 memory overclock. (stress tested with OCCT).

I am aiming for 2303MHZ (core), but due to new environmentally friendly gases used in all new Water Chillers (R134a which only has a boiling point of -26c) this is as good as it gets.

I REALLY want to break through 2303 MHZ on my 1080.
Any advice?

The Classified voltage tool is doing great things for memory but I'm not sure it is agreeing with the Core. I don't even think its because PASCAL doesn't like it (because it should be accepting at least a few extra mv at these temps beyond 1.093v stock limit)?

I think it's got something to do with GPU BOOST 3.0 doesn't agree with the Classified Tool. Because people using the modified STRIX BIOS (which works with and alongside GPU Boost 3.0) are getting nice gains). -- Not nice by 980 standards but decent by Pascal standards :-)

k|ngp|nwhat do you think? Shouldn't my card at least, by now, be accepting a little boost in mv? For a small gain in MHZ on the core? (at least Something)? Do you think I need to get cooler (DICE/LN2) to use the updated 1080 Classy voltage tool, or is it conflicting with GPU Boost 3.0 & should actually be giving us something?

Load temp is approx. -2c - +2c.

Thank you :-)

P.S.
DICE / LN2 would be my next project anyway :-)
There is no way I'm stopping now. Enjoying this too much.
Eventually I can maybe begin competing on HWBOT by joining a Rookie Team over there :-)