How To?

How to install and use U Bolt?

A U-Bolt is a U-shaped bolt with two threaded arms that extend up from a curved or square base. The special “U” shape of the bolt provides U-Bolts with a great deal of extra stability.

An U Bolt is commonly a type of fastener used in business construction to append any threaded rod or bolt accessory to concrete. After installing it, you will now be left with female threads in the binding material, featuring either threaded rod or bolts.

How to install an U Bolt?

Follow these five steps to ensure your U-bolt is installed correctly.

Step 1: Remove the Nuts The U-bolt will probably come with nuts attached to its threads. Start by taking the nuts off each side of the bolt.

Step 2: Position the U-Bolt Place the U-bolt around the object you’re attaching to the beam or support. This object is usually piping or tubing.

Step 3: Examine Your Holes Next, make sure you properly drill holes through the support structure. If you’ve drilled through the beam, make sure you haven’t damaged its protective coating. Cracks in the coating can lead to rusting around holes. At this stage, it’s smart to touch up the beam’s surface around holes before adding your bolts.

Step 4: Thread the Bolt Through Push the two bolt ends through the holes and thread the nuts on each end of the U-bolt.

Step 5: Fasten the Nuts It’s good to note that nut placement on a restraint will be different from a guide. If you’re working with a restraint, you’ll want to tighten the nuts on the bottom side of the beam.

For guides, you’ll want to place one nut on the top side of the beam and one nut on the bottom side. These nuts allow proper spacing between the piping and U-bolt.

Once your nuts are in place, start by hand tightening the nuts closest to the beam first. Finally, tighten each end’s second nut. This will lock the U-bolt in place. Then, use a power tool or wrench to tighten the nuts until they’re secure.

You probably already have an idea of what you want to cover or what you want to design.If you haven’t decided yet, here are some ideas for a single or multiple design looks.

A horizontal sail can be boring to look at, while a totally vertical sail could catch more wind and could produce heavier loads.

The most visually appealing situation is when two or more shade sails are used and the mounting elevations of the sails change dramatically from corner to corner.

Setting mounting points 3ft or more change in height makes for a visually stunning look.

Prior to installation, check with local authorities for any relevant building regulations which may exist, and check with the local utility companies for any underground services prior to digging holes for the support posts.

Where To Place The Shade Sail?

Before you commence installation, it is very important that you consider the most suitable location for your shade sails. Take into account the following:

Size of the shade sail(s);

Strength of existing structures intended to be anchor points;

Ability to insert suitable fixing posts;

Location of barbecue grills, fire pits, and other high heat sources;

Sun direction and path tracking;

Wind speeds typical and maximum expected for your area.

Find a suitable anchor point for each corner of the shade sail, such as those listed below. These need to be strong enough to take the strain of the shade sail material when tensioned. Anchor points could be:

A wall or strong beam

A suitable tree

A wooden post at least 100mm diameter set in the ground.

A metal pole at least 48mm diameter set in the ground.

A metal pole at least 48mm diameter fitted into a sleeve in the ground, like a rotary washing line.

Fixing points should be at least 7ft 10inches above the ground, and it is extremely important that these are sufficiently strong to take the full weight of the shade sail in windy conditions.

The wind can add significantly to the stress of the shade sail on any fixings, so it is vital to be certain that they can stand the additional drag. NB: If you have any doubts you should take advice from a builder or structural engineer.

Posts

If you need to install posts, these should be 48mm wide galvanised steel which is 4mm thick (these can be easily painted if required).

Posts should be angled away from the centre of the shade sail by at least 10 degrees to provide additional strength and stability.

Footings Footings for posts for shade sails up to 16ft 5inches should be 400mm square and 800mm deep and this should increase to 400mm x 1200mm for larger sizes.

Foundations Concrete Concrete should be well packed down around the post and sloping slightly outwards at the top to ensure water does not collect around the post. This should be left for a minimum of 48 hours to allow it to set completely before you attach the shade sail. We do not recommend the use of rapid set concrete. 1. Firm ground Lay a 100mm depth of 20mm gravel at the base of the post. Add concrete and brace post on the angle. 2. Soft ground Pour a 100mm depth of concrete at the bottom of the hole to provide a solid pad. Allow this to set. Add the gravel at the base of the post. Add concrete and brace post on the angle.

Wall

Once you have decided on a suitable site, the shade sail should be laid out in position on the ground allowing an additional 10% at each corner for tensioning.

For larger gaps you may require stainless steel cable or similar to reach more distant fixing points.

Trees

If you decide to use a tree as a fixed point, it should be at least 250mm in diameter.

How To Set It Up?

Some possible combinations of fixing accessories

Connecting the sail shade Connect fixing accessories to your mounting points as required.Ensure all accessories face towards the middle of the sail and are tightly secured.

Tensioning To connect your sail shade you should first attach the adjustable fixings to the mounting points(ensuring they face the centre of the sail shade),and then attach the sail shade to these,using a strap temsioner to stretch the sail shade as tightly as possible,replacing this with a turnbuckle for final tensioning and adjustment.

Please browse our shade sail hardware selection below,

Important : at least two of the sail’s fixing accessories must be tensioning devises.

A rope or chain can be used extend you shade sail to a fixing point if required.Select the fixing accessories which best suit your own installation.

Trunbuckle : To attach shade sail corner ring to a fixing point and provide tension on the shade sail.

Terminals : We offer a range of terminals that are safe, reliable, and do not require any specialised swaging or crimping tools.

Rigging screws : Rigging screws are designed to conceal the threads within the pipe for a better, more streamlined appearance to your shade sail rigging,designed to attach to a wide range of stainless steel fixtures and fittings, such as screw eyes and eye bolts.

NEVER EXCEED THE WORKING LOAD LIMIT

Working Load LimitThis is the term used throughout the catalog. There are, however. Other terms used in the industry which are interchangeable with the term Working Load Limit. These are: WLL, SWL, Safe Working Load, Rated Load Value, Resulting Safe Working Load, and Rated Capacity.

Never exceed the Working Load Limit.

The Working Load Limit is the maximum load which should ever be applied to a product, even when the product is new and when the load is uniformly applied – straight line pull only. Avoid side loading. All catalog ratings are based upon usual environmental conditions, and consideration must be given to unusual condition such as extreme high or low temperatures, chemical solutions or vapors, prolonged immersion in salt water, etc. Such conditions or high-risk applications may necessitate reducing the Working Load Limit.

Welding and Modifications Affect the Working Load Limit

Working Load Limit will not apply if product has been welded or otherwise modified. It should also be noted that it is the ultimate responsibility of the end user to determine a Working Load Limit for each application.

Components Working Load Limits Must Match.

Make certain that components such as hooks, links or shackles, etc. used with wire rope (or chain or cordage) are of suitable material size and strength to provide adequate safety protection. Attachments must be properly installed and must have a Working Load Limit at least equal to the product with which they are used. Remember: Any chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

Raised load.

All employees working with cranes or hoists or assisting in hooking or arranging a load should be instructed to keep out from under the load. From a safety standpoint, one factor is paramount: Conduct all lifting operations in such a manner, that if there were an equipment failure, no personnel would be injured. This means keep out from under a raised load and keep out of the line of force of any load.

Shock Loads.

Avoid impacting, jerking or swinging of load as the Working Load Limit could be exceeded and the Working Load Limit will not apply. A shock load is generally significantly greater than the static load. Avoid shock loads.

Inspect product regularly.

No product can keep operating at its rated capacity indefinitely. Periodic inspections help determine when to replace a product and reduce rigging hazards. Check for visible damage, cracks, wear, elongation, rust, etc. When in doubt about the extent of the damage, retire the item in question immediately.

Such breaks can cause loads to fail or swing out of control, possibly resulting in serious injury or death as well as major property damage.

Wire Rope Clips Installation Guide

Wire rope clips are widely used for making end terminations. Clips are available in two basic designs; the U-Bolt and fist grip. The efficiency of both types is the same. When using U-Bolt clips, extreme care must be exercised to make certain that they are attached correctly; Incorrect installation can reduce the working load limit by 40%. Below are general guidelines for installing wire rope clips.

First, wire rope clips should be inspected before use to ensure that:

• all markings are legible; • the wire rope clip is free from nicks, gouges and cracks; • a wire rope clip with the correct dimension has been selected; • never repair or reshape a wire rope clip by welding, heating or bending as this may affect the performance.

And then, The following is based on the use of proper size U-Bolt clips on new rope.

Step 1. Turn back specified amount of rope from thimble or loop. The first clip must be placed one bridge width from the turned back rope tail or dead end of the rope, Apply U-Bolt over dead end of wire rope – live end rests in saddle (Never saddle a dead horse!) Tighten nuts evenly, alternate from one nut to the other until reaching the recommended torque.

Step 2. When more than two clips are required, apply the second clip as near the loop or thimble as possible, tighten the nuts firmly but not yet to the specified torque.

Step 3. When three or more clips are required, space additional clips equally between first two – take up rope slack – tighten nuts on each U-Bolt evenly, alternating from one nut to the other until reaching recommended torque.

Step 4. Apply first load to test the assembly. This load should be of equal or greater – weight than loads expected in use. Next, check and retighten nuts to recommended torque.

In accordance with good rigging and maintenance practices, the wire rope end termination should be inspected periodically for wear, abuse, and general adequacy. Periodically re-tightening of the nuts must be done at 10.000 cycles (heavy usage), 20.000 e.g. every 3 months, 6 months, annually.

Also, the tightening and retightening of the nuts must be accomplished as required. Use only forged clips for critical, heavy duty, overhead loads, such as support lines, guy lines, towing lines, tie downs, scaffolds, etc. Malleable clips are to be used for making eye termination assemblies only with right regular lay wire rope and only for light duty uses with small applied loads, such as hand rails, fencing, guard rails, etc.

China LG Supply provide you high quality wire rope clips, in a range of sizes and designs, according to your needs and desires.

Which type of chain binder should I use?

Chain binder also known as a load binder, these two terms are used interchangeably. Chain binders are tools used to bind, clamp, anchor or tie down large cargo loads for transport. There are two basic types of chain binders – lever binders and ratchet binders.

Also called a ratchet chain or ratchet load binder, this device uses a ratcheting action to tension chain and secure cargo. A ratchet binder consists of a ratchet handle and two tension hooks on each end.

When using a ratchet binder, the lever and screw work together and increase the force manually applied to the tie-down assembly. The result is that it takes much less pulling force on the handle to apply tension than you would need with a lever binder.

Ratchets also allow for slower, steadier loading and unloading of forces. This reduces any undue stress or strain on your body. Since ratchet binders are designed with a gear, handle, pawl and end fittings, they will not store up as much energy in the handle as a lever binder will.

Another advantage of ratchet binders is that take-up is safer. The take-up distance of a ratchet binder is typically eight to ten inches – twice that of a lever binder. While take up with a ratchet binder may take a few extra minutes, it is more controlled and ultimately a safer process.

Also called a snap binder, lever chain or lever load binder. Chain-tensioning device uses a leverage action to tighten and secure loads. With a tension hook on each end, this binder requires more strength to tighten than ratchet binders.

A lever binder is made up of a simple machine, a lever, with a tension hook on each end. The lever is used to increase the force applied to a tie down. The lever is hinged and takes up the slack by pulling on one end of the tension hook and will lock itself after a 180-degree rotation of the lever around the hinge. Some of the advantages of choosing a lever-type binder include: Easy installation, Fewer moving parts (less maintenance).

Routinely check load binders for wear, bending, cracks, nicks, or gouges. If bending or cracks are present – Do not use load binder.

Routinely lubricate pivot and swivel points of Lever Binders, and pawl part and screw threads of Ratchet Binders to extend product life and reduce friction wear.

Stainless Steel Can Also Be Magnetic

Stainless steel is a common name for metal alloys that consist of 10.5% or more Chromium (Cr) and more than 50% Iron (Fe). Although it is called “Stainless” a better term for it is “highly stain resistant.” It is a darker metal. There are two process methods to make it bright, both are surface treatments.

There are three major classes of stainless steel

1. Austenitic: Chromium-nickel-iron alloys with 16%-26% chromium (Cr), 6%-22% nickel (Ni), and low carbon content, with non-magnetic properties. Type 304 ( 18% chromium, 8% nickel ) is the most commonly used grade or composition.2. Martensitic: Chromium-iron alloys with 10.5%-17% chromium and carefully controlled carbon content. It has magnetic properties! Type 420 is a typical example. It is mostly used in knives and kitchen equipment.3. Ferritic: Chromium-iron alloys with 17%-27% chromium and low carbon content, with magnetic properties! Type 430 is the most commonly used ferritic.

The magnet test is NOT a correct way to verify stainless steel. Stainless steel is graded by the ingredients and percentages. Stainless is a man made alloy. The nickel content determines the grade of stainless. The chromium content must be 18% or more to be 304 stainless. It starts out as non-magnetic. After a 500 ton press squeezes the nickel it changes the distribution of the nickel. The same is true where the die cuts the stainless increasing the possibility that rust will eventually occur there. All stainless steel is magnetic except austenitic stainless steel which is actually 300 series stainless such as 304 and 316. However, 300 series stainless is non-magnetic only after it is freshly formed. 304 is almost for sure to become magnetic after cold work such as pressing, blasting, cutting, etc. Initially the cold work causes the stainless to pick up foreign particles such as free iron. Then at some spots the metallic crystal structure changes from austenite to martensite. 400 series stainless (ie. martensitic stainless steel) is magnetic. Stainless steel containing more nickel (310 and 316 grades) is more likely to remain non-magnetic after cold work.

All stainless steel is NOT necessarily non-magnetic

It is common for stainless to pick up iron ions from the die and tool used during the stamping process. Iron ions cause magnetism and later may cause minor rust. Our customers use our stainless products and it is very rare that there is a problem with rust unless their application is extremely caustic. If your application is extremely caustic you should require stainless steel that has gone through both the passivation and annealing processes. Passivation enhances the rust resistance of the stainless surface. The passivation process is not meant to completely restore non-magnetic property. It is only a relatively economic way to enhance corrosion resistance. The passivation process standard removes all ions. Annealing is the most effective way to restore non-magnetic property and enhance corrosion resistance. However, in this process if the stainless is not heat treated high enough and then cooled down slowly the corrosion resistance of the stainless steel will be reduced. Annealing stainless is almost cost prohibitive. When both processes are applied, passivation should be done after annealing.

Shackles Information & Use Limitations

Shackles are one of the most used rigging fittings. Because the removable pins, they are used to make connections to wire rope, chain and other fittings.

They have a wide variety of styles and types, and with so many different options, choosing the right shackle for the job can be confusing. Therefore, we summarized some of the basics below.

Bow vs. D shackle

Bow shackle and anchor shackle are usually used interchangeably, it refers to a shackle with a larger, rounded “O” shape look. The rounded design of bow shackles allow them to take loads from many directions without developing significant side load. The larger loop shape of bow shackle does reduce its overall strength, but it is also able to handle a larger strap.

D shackles are also known as chain shackles, or dee shackles. Both refer to the letter “D” shape design. A d shackle is narrower than the bow shackle and generally have a threaded pin or pin close. The smaller loop is designed to take high loads primarily in line. Side and racking loads may twist or bend a D shackle.

Both bow and d shackles come with different pin options as well.

Galvanized shackles vs. stainless steel shackles

Galvanized metal and stainless steel both offer excellent protection from rust and corrosion, making either a great choice.

In general, galvanized shackles are ideal for industrial applications where moisture is not a major issue. Galvanized steel has a thin coating of zinc oxide to protect the steel from elements that lead to corrosion and oxidation. Galvanized is also a great choice as it tends to be less expensive than stainless steel, but still maintains the shackle’s strength and durability.

Stainless steel shackles are more corrosive-resistant and, are therefore ideal for marine applications. Our stainless steel shackles are made of 304 or 316 stainless steel. AISI 316 stainless steel also considered “marine grade.” It contains molybdenum, which makes it resistant to ocean water mist or spray, so it’s especially useful in extreme conditions or moisture or in a high chloride environment.

Pin types

The pin that locks a shackle can be a deciding factor on which shackle will work best for your job. We carry shackles with round pins, square head pins, screw pins, and bolt type pins.

Round Pin Shackles can be used in tie down, towing, suspension or lifting applications where the load is strictly applied in-line. Round pin shackles should never be used in rigging applications to gather multiple sling legs or where side loading conditions may occur.

Square Head Pin Shackle, also called a Trawling Shackle. These trawling shackles are commonly used in the marine industry for trawling purposes during fishing expeditions.

Screw Pin Shackles are popular because they offer a pin that is easy to connect and disconnect. Screw Pin Shackles are used in Pick and Place* applications. Screw pin shackles can be used for applications involving side-loading circumstances. Reduced Work Load Limits are required for side-loading applications. While in service, do not allow the screw pin to be rotated by a live line, such as in a choker application.

Bolt-Type Pin Shackles can be used in any application where round pin or screw pin shackles are used. In addition, they are recommended for permanent or long term installations and where the load may slide on the shackle pin causing the pin to rotate. The bolt-type shackle’s secondary securement system, utilizing a nut and cotter, eliminates the requirement to tighten pin before each lift or movement of load.

The Working Load Limit on a shackle varies according to the angle of the load.

The pre-use check for shackles should ensure that:

The body of the shackle and pin are both compatible and are of the same grade and material.

All markings are clearly legible.

The pin is the correct type for the shackle body.

The threads of the pin and the shackle body are in good order and function correctly.

The body and pin are not damaged in any way and are free from distortion, nicks, gouges, cracks and excessive wear and corrosion. (Recommended maximum wear allowance is 10%).

For ‘Safety pin’ shackles ensure that the nuts and split pins are fitted and in good condition.

Warning:

Incorrect shackle use could result in a dangerous situation that could cause property damage, serious injury or death.

When using shackles in multi-leg slings, due consideration should be given to the effect of the angle between the legs. As theincluded angle increases so to does the load in the sling leg and the shackle.

Shackles should never be used on a sling with an included angle in excess of 120˚.

Knowledge of Turnbuckles

Turnbuckles are constructed with a long sleeve with internal screw threads that accept a variety of fittings used to pull anchor points closer together or push them apart by turning the turnbuckle body. Turnbuckles can be manufactured in galvanized hardware or stainless hardware for rigging supplies and marine hardware. We carry a full line of turnbuckle hardware including jaw jaw, eye eye, hook hook, eye jaw, and hook eye in various sizes from small turnbuckles to large turnbuckles. Turnbuckles are necessary equipment in marine rigging and architecture industries.

More About Turnbuckles

Our heavy duty marine fittings are hot dip galvanized or stainless steel type 316 for durability and long life.

Boat rigging and marine rigging industries utilize the turnbuckle as a valuable part of their sailboat hardware/rigging hardware. In galvanized turnbuckles the turnbuckle eyes are forged elongated to minimize stress on the eye fitting and make attachment to sailing hardware easier. The turnbuckle jaw features either a nut/bolt or pin/cotter pin to secure the turnbuckles to cabling. Meant for straight or inline pull only, our heave duty turnbuckles are high quality hardware fittings for your rigging applications and ship fast. If you have questions regarding configurations of rigging turnbuckles or other rigging hardware

Top Materials for Turnbuckle Parts

Stainless Steel – from small turnbuckles to larger assemblies 316L stainless turnbuckles offer high corrosion resistance and durability with standard UNC threading to interchange turnbuckle hardware. Stainless steel turnbuckles offer the highest resistance to high chloride or high moisture environments.

Pipe – pipe turnbuckles are a version of stainless steel manufacturing but the body of the turnbuckle is enclosed in stainless steel pipe for cosmetic reasons such as wire railings so that threads are not visible unlike standard turnbuckle hardware. UNC threaded so the fittings can be interchanged with standard turnbuckle fittings.

Turnbuckle Hardware Options

There are a large variety of turn buckle design options to fit your specific rigging needs. Turnbuckles come with a variety of end fittings:

Deck Toggle – a “T” shaped bar sits inside a mounting bracket with holes on either side. This configuration allows the turnbuckle assemblies to rotate 180 degrees within the mounting bracket. This type of fitting is often used to attach to deck posts.

Drop Pin – these turnbuckle tie downs have a rotating pin on the end that flips flat into the body of the pin to thread through a hole and then can be extended perpendicular to the body for a secure hold. This end fitting offers an excellent clean look.

Eye – solid loop end for wire rope turnbuckle with no vulnerable connection points to allow cable to slip through. Elongated eye version minimizes stress on the turnbuckle component.

Fork or Jaw -rigging turnbuckles with wishbone shaped anchor point fitted with a nut and bolt or pin and cotter turnbuckle assembly, this type of fitting is ideal for situations where the anchor point is fixed and will not work with an eye or the anchor point needs to be secured from slipping off the fitting.

Hook – stainless turnbuckle ending in an open hook. Hooked ends of the turnbuckle may open the same direction or in opposite directions depending on your rigging requirements. This fitting offers the quickest option for attachment and release.

Lag Screw – the threaded screw end of these turnbuckles allow for permanent, secure attachment to your anchor points.

Stub End – these rigging turnbuckles are used where a connecting point is not needed like most turnbuckle ends, but rather are used to separate or push apart objects.

Swage Stud – swage stud turn buckle fittings offer a solid corrosion resistant end point that is threaded to accept wires directly into the fitting and swaged to secure them permanently.

Threaded Rod – turnbuckle hardware end fitting with standard threads that easily form a direct connection to a post or other mounting surface.

Introduction to Wire Rope Slings

1.2 – Do:

Inspect wire rope slings and accessories before use and before placing into storage.

Follow safe slinging practices, as given overleaf.

Fit slings carefully, protect them from sharp edges and position hooks to face outward from the load.

Apply the correct mode factor for the slinging arrangement.

Back hook free legs to the master link.

1.3 – Do not:

Attempt to shorten, knot or tie wire rope slings.

Force, hammer or wedge slings or their fittings into position.

Lift on the point of the hook.

Use wire rope slings in acidic conditions without consulting the supplier.

Use wire rope slings at temperatures above 100°C or below minus 40°C without consulting the supplier.

Shock load wire rope slings.

1.4 – Selecting the correct sling:

Wire rope slings are available in a range of sizes and assemblies, select the slings to be used and plan the lift taking the following into account:

Type of sling to be used – endless, single, two, three or four leg.

Capacity – the sling must be both long enough and strong enough for the load and the slinging method.

Apply the mode factor for the slinging method.

For use at temperatures exceeding 100°C or below minus 40°C refer to the suppliers instructions. Where slings may come into contact with acids or chemicals consult the supplier.In the case of multi-leg slings the angle between the legs should not be less than 30° or exceed the maximum marked. Multi-leg slings exert a gripping force on the load which must be taken into account, this increases as the angle between the legs increases.

Due to the possibility of sparking, the use of aluminium is restricted in certain classified atmospheres, so ensure the ferrule is suitable for such conditions.

1.5 – Storing and handling wire rope slings:

Never return damaged or contaminated slings to storage. They should be dry, clean and protected from corrosion. Store wire rope slings on a rack and not lying on the ground.

The storage area should be dry and free of any contaminates which may harm the sling.

Do not alter, modify or repair a wire rope sling but refer such matters to a Competent Person.

1.6 – Using wire rope slings safely

Do not attempt lifting operations unless you understand the use of the equipment, the slinging procedures and the mode factors to be applied.

Do not use defective slings or accessories.

Do not force, hammer or wedge slings or fittings into position.

They must fit freely. Check to ensure correct engagement of fittings and appliances.

Position hooks of multi-leg slings facing outward from the load.

Do not lift on the point of a hook.

Ensure that the wire rope is not twisted or knotted.

Ensure the effective diameter of pins, hooks etc upon which soft eyes fit is at least 2 x the wire rope diameter.

Position the splices of endless slings in the standing part of the sling away from hooks and fittings.

Never join wire rope slings made from different lays of rope together as this will cause them to un-lay thus seriously affecting their capacity.

Back hook free legs to the master link to avoid lashing legs which might accidentally become engaged or otherwise become a hazard.

Take the load steadily and avoid shock loads.

Do not leave suspended loads unattended. In an emergency cordon off the area.