My Rick's failed (no charge) in a few months with about 1500 miles on it (stock location) with single exhaust. I put the stock working unit back on while they replace it. They claim it is the first failure of one of these. Now I lost the confidence I thought I bought.

My Rick's failed (no charge) in a few months with about 1500 miles on it (stock location) with single exhaust. I put the stock working unit back on while they replace it. They claim it is the first failure of one of these. Now I lost the confidence I thought I bought.

I am sorry to hear about the Rick's failure. Before I committed on one, I was going to call them and ask them why theirs is better than stock. Now I don't know what to do. I just put in a new YUASA battery that I don't want to fry. I have been riding KTM motorcycles of all sizes since 1997, and the new ones just don't seem as reliable as the older models.

__________________Stand Behind Our Troops or Feel Free to Stand in Front of Them.

My SE has 7000 miles on it.
I'm on battery #4 and i just figured out my Voltage regulator is letting 17+ volts through.
I checked it out a while back and it was only putting out 14v but the bike was cold and i only kept it running for a few minutes. .
Today I ran the bike for a lot longer and gave it different throttle settings as the bike got hotter the voltage kept going up.

http://motoventure.smugmug.com/Other...508862_C3CDQq/
NiceName: ? Yes, my VRR quit, and took out my Battery also, four days before the KTM rally in Oregon last year. After getting a new Reg overnight shipped, AND a new Battery, i did make it, but a day late? Not wanting this to repeat itself, i starting playing with Machining a Heat Sink, (minimal reduction in Heat) and then Testing with an Infra-Red gun, experimenting with different locations, until i found the Coooooolest? Upper Mount down to 102 Degrees, and Lower Mount down to 112 degrees from a Smoking hot 175 plus where it sits between the Headers...

http://motoventure.smugmug.com/Other...508862_C3CDQq/
NiceName: ? Yes, my VRR quit, and took out my Battery also, four days before the KTM rally in Oregon last year. After getting a new Reg overnight shipped, AND a new Battery, i did make it, but a day late? Not wanting this to repeat itself, i starting playing with Machining a Heat Sink, (minimal reduction in Heat) and then Testing with an Infra-Red gun, experimenting with different locations, until i found the Coooooolest? Upper Mount down to 102 Degrees, and Lower Mount down to 112 degrees from a Smoking hot 175 plus where it sits between the Headers...

Where did you mount the heat sinc? How about a photo of it in place. What was the heat sinc made of? Thanks

__________________Stand Behind Our Troops or Feel Free to Stand in Front of Them.

Where did you mount the heat sinc? How about a photo of it in place. What was the heat sinc made of? Thanks

The Heat/Cooling sink i Machined was Mounted directly behind the VRR in it's stock location, but cost prohibitive to Machine, and didn't lower Temps to my satisfaction. Click on the Smug Mug link in my Quote, and that should open up for you? I have produced these other Mounts in a Kit form, and have shipped a number of them out already? Check out Superenduro.com Bigkuri has posted some links to them. You can also contact me through MVMOTOVENTURE.CA if you would like to re-locate your VRR, and i can send you the Kit.

So I bought a new regulator from ricks. I decided on a ricks because it had the plug already on it. I put it in the stock location checked the temp. And the bottom side got up to almost 200 degrees. I'm thinking about putting pipe wrap on the crossover. The crossover was getting up to 400+ sitting.

I know there is other threads that say don't wrap the exhaust because it will rust out. But the heat from these bikes exhaust is crazy.

The regulator can get super hot by its own means, not sure the exhaust has much to do with this.
I have relocated mine on the rear shock nitrogen container at an angle towards the airstream. Its the only reasonable place (without cutting expanding and slicing) where it can get some air cooling. I Have no pic right now, but to give you an idea, the cables are on top right next to the compression screws. I have used a piece of an old tyre tube to rest upon and fixed it with cable ties. It is a five minute job.

Did I read someone had used a DL 1000 reliable japanese one somewhere here on OC?

Been searching but can't seem to drag it up.

Most of the Japanese litre bikes (R1, V-strom, GSXR etc) use the Shindengen FH020 R/R unit.

I bought mine from the local Yamaha dealer and found out that its used on all their 600-1000cc bikes (FJR, R6/R1 and several cruisers). The stock part is FH022 which has now been superseded by the FH020-AA with a new heat sink design. I posted the YAMAHA part number in one of my posts....

__________________'07 KTM Adv990S - Gone, to a good home , '12 KTM 990Adv, '10 KTM 530Exc-RallyNo myriad hues of laser lights, no bottles that are oozing with nectars from heaven, No beautiful body soft and warm to the touch but, i have a very small desire, Give me a dark....long....winding road, three gears to go and my Hellas on fire !!

Most of the Japanese litre bikes (R1, V-strom, GSXR etc) use the Shindengen FH020 R/R unit.

I bought mine from the local Yamaha dealer and found out that its used on all their 600-1000cc bikes (FJR, R6/R1 and several cruisers). The stock part is FH022 which has now been superseded by the FH020-AA with a new heat sink design. I posted the YAMAHA part number in one of my posts....

The FH020AA is the same unit they sell here. http://roadstercycle.com/
Only Roadstercycle sells it for $100, Yamaha wants over $200.

I got mine installed on the bike and the voltage never goes past 14.2V. Most of the time it's at 13.8V.