The Sacramento River, California’s longest and largest waterway, begins in the Trinity Divide just west of Mount Shasta. With the exception of the impoundment at Lake Siskiyou, it is a wild, surging river that races over numerous rapids and through deep canyons and narrow gorges. However, unlike its nearby tributary the McCloud River, the Sacramento does not go over any major waterfalls. Where the McCloud has its trio fantastic cataracts, the Sacramento only has a seemingly endless succession of rapids. Yet, what the river itself lacks in plunges, it makes up for in waterfalls pouring into the river and on tributaries just above the Sacramento. These falls lack the volume of those on the McCloud because it is not the river itself going over the precipice. Though they lack thundering power, the waterfalls along the Sacramento River make up for in unusual geology, unique settings and outright grace and beauty. None of the waterfalls along the Sacramento require difficult hikes, though they are all reached via unconnected trails. Nonetheless, they are fairly close together and for those in search of falling water, the Sacramento’s waterfalls make for an excellent afternoon.

Mossbrae Falls

Mossbrae Falls.

The undisputed monarch of the waterfalls along the Sacramento, Mossbrae Falls is actually a series of springs that burst from the cliffs above the river and then rain down in a glorious cacophony into the water as it flow swiftly by. Though the spring complex is large and small flows can be spotted on the approach to the falls, Mossbrae Falls is composed of two primary clusters of spring-fed waterfalls. These are arranged around an elbow in the river, which gives the falls a sense of depth and complexity that are absent in many other waterfalls. The presence of the river beneath the falls enhances the scene and makes for one of the prettiest sights in the Mount Shasta area. Since the source of Mossbrae Falls are numerous springs, the falls do not flag later in the season like many other waterfalls do. Consequently they are great year-round. The best time to enjoy the falls is in the fall, when the foliage has changed color, making the canyon around the waterfall a glorious explosion of golds and oranges contrasted against the green of the Sacramento River Canyon.

If there is a drawback to Mossbrae Falls, it is access. To reach the falls it is necessary to hike along the railroad tracks that are tucked onto a narrow bench against cliffs above the Sacramento River. Though this was common practice for decades and the falls were a popular destination, this is no longer the case. The Union Pacific blocked off access to the parking area a few years ago, making it difficult to find parking near the tracks. To make the journey now, one must find creative ways to park or be prepared to hike a much longer distance from parking places in Dunsmuir. There has been talk about building a bridge across the Sacramento River and linking to the trail that leads to Hedge Creek Falls. For a time there was a fair amount of momentum for this solution but it seems to have flagged recently. If this vision did come to fruition, the trail would make for an incredibly scenic hike.

Hedge Creek Falls

Hedge Creek Falls.

Located right off of I-5, Hedge Creek Falls is the most easily accessed waterfall in the Mount Shasta area. A slender and graceful waterfall, its best flow is in the spring and early spring, though it usually flows year-round. A classic plunge waterfall, Hedge Creek Falls is about 30 feet high and shoots through a narrow, rocky gorge just before pouring over the edge. The most interesting feature about Hedge Creek Falls is the columnar basalt cliff Hedge Creek goes over. The basalt columns resemble those famously found at Devil’s Postpile in the Sierra Nevada, near Yosemite. Rock climbers have developed routes along the cracks in the basalt. The cliff’s real distinctive is the hollow at its bottom. The basalt columns stop about 10 feet short of the ground, leaving something of a cave at the bottom. The Hedge Creek Falls Trail passes through the cave, allowing hikers to view the falls from behind. Though this is the highlight of the trip down the falls, the trail continues a little further to a great vista of Mount Shasta and the Sacramento River. Along the way, the trail passes a few smaller cataracts along Hedge Creek.

Sweetbriar Falls

Sweetbriar Falls

This small waterfall is easily accessed in the small community of Sweetbriar, which straddles the Sacramento River just south of Castella. The fall’s watershed is small, originating on Girard Ridge and only flowing a short distance. Nonetheless, it maintains a decent flow much of the year. The creek flows under a road and then plunges over a short cliff before dropping down a series of cascades into the Sacramento River. The cliff, which vaguely resembles a columnar basalt formation, has blocky outcroppings that cause the creek to dance and deviate as it drops. At about 20 feet high, it is not a spectacular waterfall but it is a pleasant and refreshing sight nonetheless. Be sure to park in the wide parking area on the west side of the railroad tracks to avoid trespassing on private property. From there, walk east, cross over the Sacramento River and then turn right onto a very short trail that leads to the falls. A wooden bridge crosses the creek just below the falls and leads to a nice vantage point of both falls and river.

Other Waterfalls Along The Sacramento River

Falls inside the Box Canyon.

There are a few other waterfalls along the Sacramento River. One area that is almost completely overlooked are the waterfalls that pour down the side of the Box Canyon of the Sacramento River. There are two notable waterfalls in the Box Canyon. However, their location along the cliffs of the gorge makes them much more compelling waterfalls. The larger of the two falls is best seen near the beginning of the Box Canyon Trail, along the large rock covered embankment. The other waterfall is best seen by climbing the via ferrata route down into the canyon and heading to the east along the narrow strip of land next to the river. There the falls tumble down the rock wall into the water of the Sacramento River. The falls, though attractive, are part of an overall setting including the river and the sheer, narrow cliffs that is quite impressive.

In a post back in July I documented how the low snow level from the previous winter had resulted in an increasingly bare Mount Shasta. As the summer progressed the snow continued to dwindle until there were just a few meager patches on the mountain’s west side, the only side that hosts no glaciers. Seeing this side of the mountain without much snow on it is not unusual but it was disconcerting to see that it was just a matter of a week or so before there would be nothing left at all. The last few days we have gotten some rain and as a result our once naked mountain now has a beautiful white mantle of snow on it once again. This seems to have been the best possible combination of conditions. The snow covers most of the mountains’ barren volcanic rock but not quite low enough to make the other mountains around Mount Shasta, particularly in the Trinity Divide, inaccessible. The result is that now is a great time to hike the high country and have a chance to see a snowy mountain once again (assuming the skies are clear, of course). Given the lateness of the season and the already cooling temperatures, it is possible that this new level of snow won’t melt off completely and the mountain will retain some of its icy dignity.

It is interesting to compare the snow levels with the same date in years past. Even though 2013 was the lightest year in the last few years, the mountain has more snow on it now than it did in the heavy years.

If one desires to hike on Mount Shasta right now, the best bet is to head to the Horse Camp Trail. The mountain is covered in snow high above but the snow around Horse Camp is light enough that it makes for easy hiking. These are ideal conditions for this hike. With the seasons changing and the opportunities to enjoy the high country growing fewer, this is a great opportunity to enjoy a hike in the Mount Shasta area.

Despite being blessed with rugged peaks, unusual but scenic geology, a fine compliment of lakes and meadows and relatively easy access, the Scott Mountains remain one of the lesser known ranges in the Mount Shasta region. The reasons for the range’s obscurity are many, but chief among them are simply being overwhelmed be the presence of Mount Shasta. Add to that the great beauty of the nearby Trinity Divide and the Divide’s exceptionally easy access from I-5 and it is easy to understand how an entire mountain range could go unnoticed. Adding insult to injury, some of the finest portions of the Scotts, located in the mountains’ western half, were added to the Trinity Alps Wilderness, causing many to (understandably) associate them more with that giant wilderness area than with the Scott Mountains as a whole. Even though the Scotts have suffered the indignation of being broken up and overshadowed by the glory of Mount Shasta (really, what isn’t?), the mountains still beckon to hikers. Those in search of alpine beauty and solitude will find these things in the Scott Mountains.

Bluff Lake and High Camp Basin.

The Pacific Crest Trail winds over 100 miles through the mountains to the south and west of magnificent Mount Shasta. While much of the trail passes through remote country with difficult access, a significant amount of the PCT is used by hikers and backpackers on shorter journeys than the one undertaken by through-hikers (those traveling the PCT’s entire length from Mexico to Canada). This is particularly true of the PCT as it passes through the Trinity Divide. Many of the most popular hikes in that area, such as the Deadfall Lakes, the Seven Lakes Basin and Porcupine Lake are all reached via scenic hikes on the PCT. The same potential exists in the Scott Mountains but surprisingly few hikers take advantage of this excellent opportunity. In particular, two sections of the PCT offer wonderfully scenic hikes to two fine lakes. With easier access from Mount Shasta, Bluff Lake is small but very attractive and has the bizarre Cement Bluff looming overhead. In contrast, Bull Lake is nestled in a shallow, barren basin but is much larger than Bluff Lake. Both sections of the PCT are also complimented with great scenery for the duration of the hike, including excellent views, meadows, small tarns, and the ubiquitous red cliffs that are the hallmark of the Scott Mountains. These two segments of the PCT are reached by paved roads, making access incredibly easy.

In spite of the aforementioned causes for the Scott Mountain’s obscurity, it is still a surprise that they continue to go unrecognized by hikers. Perhaps the reason for this is the paucity of developed trails aside from the PCT. What few developed routes there are receive little maintenance and some have faded away entirely. No hikes in the Scott Mountains are mentioned in hiking guide books, burying them deeper in anonymity. Still, they are too beautiful mountains, too unusual and too easily accessed not to be taken advantage of. Hikers who do will enjoy the beautiful lakes, meadows and cliffs alone, seldom intruded upon by others on the trail.

The hike on the PCT to Bluff Lake is as scenic as it is easy. The trail maintains a level course for 4.5 miles as it makes a nearly complete encirclement of remote High Camp Basin. The basin is the northernmost headwaters of the Trinity River and is surrounded by peaks over 8,000 feet and high cliffs composed of stark, red peridotite. The trail initially traverses along a cliff high above the east side of the basin. Views to the west, particularly of rugged High Camp Peak are great. The unusual formation known as the Cement Bluff stands out against the dense forest. Soon the terrain levels out as the PCT rounds to the north side of the basin, beneath China Mountain and South China Mountain. Eventually passing through park-like forests with swaths of meadow, the trail continues to round the basin as it heads to the west side. Here tall cliffs rise high above and Mount Shasta and Mount Eddy are visible to the southeast. Near the end the path passes onto a bright red talus slope, winding its way through large boulders. Great views of Shasta and Eddy are combined with an expansive view of High Camp Basin. Finally the PCT reaches a side trail that leads to the top of the Cement Bluff. There are great views of Mount Eddy and High Camp basin from the summit. Steep use trails lead down to small, meadow fringed Bluff Lake. The view of the unusual, aggregate laden cliff of the Cement Bluff from the north shore of Bluff Lake is not to be missed.

The trip to Bull Lake begins at Kangaroo Lake, the largest body of water in the eastern half of the Scott Mountains. To reach the PCT, one must first climb up the Kangaroo Fen Trail, a short route ascends the cliffs on the west side of the lake. It surmounts the crest of the Scott Mountains and drops a short distance down to the PCT on the range’s south side. The climb takes hikers from the Scott River watershed into the Trinity River watershed. Once on the PCT, it traverses across a small basin with ponds and meadows down below before crossing into Robber Basin, a large bowl that is home to expansive Robber Meadow and small, hidden Robber Lake. Views of the Trinity Alps to the southwest are great. The PCT then crosses a large, red scree field before rounding a broad ridge and entering the basin that is home to large Bull Lake. The area surrounding the lake is surprisingly barren. The highlight of the hike, for those eager for a challenge, is the climb to the summit of Cory Peak and the small tarn near the summit. The small turquoise lake is set against bright red rock, just below the summit of the rugged peak. The view from the top is incredible, taking in Mount Shasta, the Trinity Divide, the Scott Mountains, Russian Mountains, Marble Mountains and the jagged Trinity Alps.

Of the nine hiking trails on Mount Shasta, five of them begin on the Everitt Memorial Highway, the only paved road that climbs the giant volcano. The highway climbs high enough to reach just below treeline at the Old Ski Bowl. As documented here, three of the trails set out from this area. The other two trails begin at a site called Bunny Flat, which is 3 miles before the road’s end and 900 feet lower. With great views to the south and the immense bulk of Mount Shasta towering overhead, it is an exceptionally scenic location. The great scenery is not limited to the trailhead at Bunny Flat. The Horse Camp and Green Butte Ridge Trails, climb up the mountain from the trailhead and explore extremely scenic areas on the volcano. The Horse Camp Trail leads to the Shasta Alpine Lodge, which is owned by the Sierra Club. From there, several destinations await, including beautifully barren Hidden Valley. In contrast, the Green Butte Ridge Trail is a straight-forward ascent up a ridge to its namesake butte. Interestingly, these are possibly the best and least-known trails on Mount Shasta. Despite how many people may or may not use the trails, both are worthy hikes that access tremendous scenery.

Mount Shasta glows above Green Butte Ridge.

One great feature of the two trails setting out from Bunny Flat is the opportunity to combine them into a fantastic loop through Mount Shasta’s epic high country. The loop’s destination is the summit of Green Butte, one of the five color-themed buttes that surround the mountain (the others being Black, Red, Gray and Yellow Buttes). Though the Green Butte Ridge Trail is a straight, steady ascent of the ridge that leads to the butte, the Horse Camp Trail can also be used to access the peak. For those interested in making the loop, it is advisable to make the ascent via the Horse Camp Trail and then descend via the Green Butte Ridge Trail. This means that the extremely pleasant and scenic hiking through Avalanche Gulch is enjoyed earlier in the journey. The grade is also more moderate as it is stretched out over greater distance. The steep ascent of Green Butte Ridge is reversed and is much more manageable as a descent. Of course, it must be noted that much of this loop, especially the connecting scramble from Avalanche Gulch to Green Butte Ridge is cross country and should only be attempted by those prepared to meet the challenges.

It is possible that the view of the Shasta Alpine Lodge and the mountain towering behind it may be among the most iconic images of Mount Shasta. The lodge is located at Horse Camp, near treeline at 7,900 feet. After departing Bunny Flat, the majority of the 1.6 miles to the lodge pass through forest canopy. The best views, such as they are, are of the Trinity Alps far to the west. Once at the lodge, the forest thins and the ground is covered by wildflowers. A gurgling fountain of water piped in from a spring highlights this restful setting. Beyond Horse Camp there are four good options for hikers looking for a longer journey. Perhaps the best option is the climb up to Hidden Valley. A route also climbs up to Lake Helen but this option is better done with snow on the ground. Those looking for a real mystery can hunt for the hidden spring deep in Avalanche Gulch. The final option, and among the best, is to continue on to Green Butte. Whichever option hikers pursue, the immensity of Avalanche Gulch is an impressive sight.

Making a beeline up steep Green Butte Ridge, the Green Butte Ridge Trail is a quick ticket to Mount Shasta’s secluded backcountry waiting above the treeline. Climbing through dense forest initially, the trail eventually breaks out of the forest and onto a rocky ridge with fantastic views in all directions. Although the trail eventually fades away, the route is obvious and easy to follow. During the climb there are rare views of Sun Bowl and Powder Bowl, popular destinations for backcountry skiing during the winter. From here, hikers must continue up the ridge toward a prominent point that has truly exceptional views. From there it is an easy scramble down a narrow neck to the top of Green Butte. Marked by evidence of repeated lighting strikes, it is an amazing summit in its own right, boasting still more incredible views. Particularly inspiring are the views of Sargents Ridge and the Old Ski Bowl.

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