Aaalrighty back to work I go.... Yeesh. I've hit one of those things, that I knew was there but didn't want to acknowledge at any cost. See pics. I'm not sure what the best way to address this is. Maybe cut out the rust with a dremel tool and just leave a larger but clean edged hole? But if I do will water pour in? I'm going to have to address this eventually but I don't have time right now nor the skill to weld in patches, should I cut it out? Probably. The dash is stripped out and ready for it. Or should I just try and neutralize it somehow? I almost can't believe how rotten the vents are while the floor is still so good. Let me know your thoughts, today will hopefully have time to figure out whats up with the rear lights and install the new alternator.

I'm no body and fender man. That looks pretty bad. It only makes sense to address it when access is easiest.

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Originally Posted by Gunfighter97

Also can anyone tell me if this is the long forgotten horn relay?

Its a relay of some sort. Could be the horn.

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Originally Posted by Gunfighter97

While I'm under here(suprising head room) dealing with the mess in the first two pics can anyone tell if the driveline angle is sharp enough here to warrant a double cardan? Or whatever its called... If not how to tell?

Examine your u-joints for signs of binding as the shaft is rotated. If there's no binding, then the angle is probably ok.

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Originally Posted by Gunfighter97

On to the next likely daft/noobish question, do I not need a voltage regulator anymore? Theres nowhere to plug in the old delco remy lol. Pic is new wire top, old bottom, that plug is gone! ps sorry to spam posts like this, I'm posting as Im finding today...

Your original alternator is known as a 10DN. It required an external voltage regulator. You're upgrading to a 10si (systems integrated) which is an internally regulated device. No need for a belt with those suspenders. That's direct from the department of redundancy department.

Thanks. Yea, the vents arent pretty. I know thats a problem spot on these trucks, believe it or not, I looked at a 68 pu before I bought this one that was 3-4000% worse. I was amazed it didnt desintigrate on the road... I get a distinct noise in 4th, starts hitting 45 and humms its way up to 65-70. I thought it might be driveline noise but who knows. As far as todays progress, got the new alternator in, looked a bit out of place so I smeared some grime on it lol. Figured out that aparently these were never wired for signal lights in back, Ive sorted out the remaining wire and have a fix in mind for the rear signal lights. Im thinking I'm going to replace the rear lights, stay tunned for what I hope will turn out to be a cool idea.

I have one observation from left field...that sure is a cute widdow tiny mototykal air filter you've got sitting on that massive dump truck motor!

As for your rear lights, the bulbs should be combined function/dual filament. The brighter filament handles brakes, 4-way/hazards and directionals, while the dim filament is the tails. It isn't like a euro-hoopdee with separate amber lenses and bulbs just for the rear directionals.

Lol my thoughts exactly on the filter. My parts truck didnt have one at all, not that it runs. I changed the cartridge when we got it, it made a very noticable increase in power, apparently air is important. As far as the lights go, the ones Im looking at are milsurp led 12/24 volt MRAP take offs with seperate indicator lights

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Ive figured out a solution to my rear signal light dilemma, after some continuity testing I found wich which is wich on my diagram and harness, and will install some plugs in back of the fire wall connectors. Why in back? Cuz I dont want to mess with the pretty new electrical tape in front I have 2 leads already leading to each rear signal, I'm basically just going to plug them into the respective two wires that go to each of the lights in front. Unfortunately I'm going to have to get a couple new Packard 56 connector contacts, as I have a feeling the ones I need to remove will get ruined in the process. Fortunately in all my electrical noobieness, I still know how to make a lightbulb work. Only thing is now a new problem has shown up in that I have absolutely no clue how the signal switch worked :confused.

Attached Images

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Ok, its hot. Like reeeeaaallyyy hot. So if my thoughts don't seem collected... I'm blaming the sun lol. I've determined to cut out the rust later, I just don't have the time to open a can of worms right now. In other news, the headlights are done with the new H4 conversion, and the dash wire bundle will go in tomorrow(will rig pig tails for the rear signal lights later since the conectors that over the phone were "in stock" at Orielieys and Napa, aparently weren't in reality). Furthering my heat induced delusions is the fact that I dont even know how the original switch worked, and I have to make the plug and the pigtail out of the column Like eachother. . . . Thoughts? See pics, in the mean time, ima go climb into my fridge

Ooooh yes I'm back in the saddle agaaaain.....
Right, vacation is over, vacation from vacation is over, now back to work. Posting some things I documented previously but didn't have time to post, included should be headlight bucket rebuilds, and the first run since the new wiring. Once I got the dash reassembled I was basically out of time before my trip, so I installed the 4 good fuses I had in some important looking places and drove the rig back to the barn. The ammeter read draw when running, but this may have been because the ground connection point for all the gauges was sketchy at best(more on that later). I didn't mess with the rear lights either so thats still on the to do list. The headlight bucket that was the "odd ball" has been removed and replaced with the correct one. I drilled out and replaced all the anchors for the adjustment screws(replacements x4 sourced from IH America(great quality part by the way)) and attached both trim rings for the first time. FINALLY my truck is semetrical lol. I used a drill bit about the same size as the head of the rivet to thin it out, then knocked em out all the way with my trusty ball peen and center punch, this technique ensures you dont dammage or enlarge the hole in the bucket itself by drilling through, old plastic anchor on the other hand will explode into a million pieces so wear glasses. Got some fuses and an oil filter cartridge today, I will be suprised if I don't find a roll of TP in there after the look the counter guy gave me at the auto parts store while trying to find it on his computer. Gad I hope this is the right one I think the fact that its box had the thickest layer of dust on it is either a sign or an omen, but I cant tell which. More mayhem, strangeness, and oily grime to come, stay tunned.

Some pics of shiny new things... Also a pristeen dash with no dangly wires(sadly staged as its not done yet) note the loose leads near firewall plug, these go to my rear signals, and the red lead is the haunted back up light. Also was reading back through and I may not have been clear here, from what I can tell, from reading the diagram that came with the new wire, there is no relation from the signal circuits to the tail lights(as in each tail light is a stop, marker and signal) as far as I can tell, there arent signals in back (orriginally).

Looking better. It would be illegal not to have turn signals in the rear. They weren't optional equipment. If it has brake lights, then it has turn signals too. They use the same bulb filament. We seem to be going round and round on that one. Someone installed a later model cross-flow radiator in it too. I think this truck model pre-dated that design, using the old upright style instead. That's not a bad thing though, as cross-flows are better.

Maybe on the signals... Ive gone through the whole diagram and it doesnt look like those circuits conect in any way but I could be wrong. Ill see if i can get it to work before I modify it then. Also yes, diferent radiator, no, not better. This one is mostly made of jb weld. Also its held in by bailing wire. I know this because I reattached it with bailing wire after it fell out and hit the fan going down the road. i have a shroud from the salvage yard, thought it might improve cooling, was going to boil out the one in my parts truck and mod the shroud to mount it and contend with the 1.5-2 inch body lift. This is another thing I need to adress, it (acording to the guage) always runs cool, doesn't even make the hood hot on a hot day really. But the radiator as it sits is basically loose in there. Im open to ideas on this. Maybe a dual core aluminum? Do I need the shroud at all? I havent really given it much thought yet since its been holding coolant ok, but I think it definatly needs to be attached properly. Attached pics are of the one in the parts truck.

That's too bad it was cobbled in and in bad shape. A fan shroud is well worth having. You might be able have your parts truck radiator rodded out. It would at least be worth having a rad shop take a look at it, unless you know of or can see an obvious structural issue with it. I don't think there is a drop in/bolt in option for the C series trucks. I've heard of some folks experimenting with some Ford truck offerings. With enough futzing, they were able to make them work. Hose fittings tend not to be precisely where they're needed, etc. Its another rabbit hole to plunge down.

If I went with an aluminum core it would have to be via a"xb" measurement, and weld on some anchors. I have the ability to tig weld so welding aluminum isn't a big deal. I would like to optemize the cooling system if I could, I know these things run cool anyways but why not be an ice cube? Might be able to have this one rebuilt/patched properly? No idea what that would entail other than a rad shop, or how much money. That may be an option if I determine I can weld on some mounts. As far as the parts truck goes, just assume EVERYTHING is unknown. Im not even sure if this truck was EVER in running condition. It looks like something the interns may have built on a weekend, half the parts dont belong together, like a 4 on the floor and a column shifter.

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That rad and shroud look like a matched set. An intact shroud like that one is probably as rare as hens teeth and worth twice its weight in gold boolyawn. Not unheard of for folks to convert their three on the tree to a floor shift and then leave the column shift in place. Kind of a pain to remove if its not bothering anything.

Good to know on that weird combo. So I guess that means I shouldnt hack up the nice shroud I picked at the salvage yard? No rad with it, but its in nice shape, paid maybe $20 for it. I gueeeees I could try and make one? And use another radiator? The deeper in I go the more lost I become it seems.

__________________
Coming to you from behind enemy lines, in an unmarked barn, somewhere in The Communist West
(currently planning my escape)