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DBSR453EB2WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DBSR453EB2WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

A very easy fix. Opening the front door to the dryer locate two chrome phillips head screws in the upper part of the door opening which hold on the top of the dryer. (I think in the older dryers the top simply was held on with keepers and you could simply pry it off. Not the case here)Lifting up on the front of the top it comes away from the back control panel. I would recommed that the control panel be removed as it is necessary to remove it to put the dryer top back on due to three clips that wont allow you to put the top back down with the control panel in place. It takes a star wrence to remove it. Once the top is off ther are two phillips screws holding the front of the dryer on (one on each side) remove them and the whole fron lifts up and off. The drum rides on a plastic schroud attached to the dryer inside front. Mine was so worn it required the purchase of the entire assembly which comes in two parts. The upper part had worn away so badly the drum was riding on the metal causing the noise. I ordered both the upper and lower assembly and both just simply snap off and the new ones snap right back on. No tools. I was a bit dissapointed as I assumed that the felt which is located in the lower assembly would come with the new part however it did not nor did some plastic tabs which the drum rides on in the upper assembly comes with the replacement part. It takes four of those tabs so order appropriately. Went back together easily and the whole job was done in about 40 minutes.

First, let me say that my repairman said the bearing and slides would cost between $150-200, and the total repair would be pushing $400, so we should just get a new dryer. Well, the total cost for the parts was less than $50.

The installation was easy.1. Remove the two bottom screws of the door hinges, loosen the two top screws, and remove the door.2. Unscrew the two screws, under the upper lip of the door opening, that secure the front panel to the top panel.3. Pull the front of the top panel up, and then pull the panel off.4. Remove the bulb from the front panel.5. Unscrew the two screws, from inside the dryer, that secure the front panel to the frame.6. Pull the front panel away from the drum and frame. Had to lift the drum slightly to do this. The electrical connection wire was still attached to the front panel.7. Slide off the old drum bearing from the inside of the front panel.8. Insert 4 new slides onto the new bearing.9. Slide the new bearing onto the rim of the opening in the front panel. 10. Reset the front panel back into the slots at the bottom front of the frame, with the bearing fitting into the drum. Again, had to lift the drum slightly to do this, and make sure the wire was not caught between the front panel and frame.11. Re-secured the front panel to the frame with the two screws.12. Replaced the bulb in the front panel.13. Replaced the top, and re-secured it with the two screws.13. Put the door back on.Quiet dryer once again! And saved the $800, including installation, a new gas dryer would have cost us!

I've always heard it was a simple job to replace the belt and that would solve the problem. I'd defer to others online when they suggest to replace the rear bearing - they are totally right about that suggestion. My bearing basically fell apart in my hands. Not sure if I needed a belt or not, but it's worth replacing while you are tearing the thing apart. It took way longer to tear apart than to put back together. The parts and prices from PartsSelect were perfect. The parts were received in 4 business days as they said and were perfect replacement parts.

It makes it real easy if you have two people!! Put the dryer on it back--You'll need to protect the floor and the warm air exhaust of the dryer.Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the topRemove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each sideRemove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes offLift drum out of dryer Use the torx bit to remove the bearingIf you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housingThis is the perfect time to remove all dust bunniesRe-install everything in reverse order

Dryer developed a progressively noisy squeak over several months

I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs) 1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door. 2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed. 3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside 4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully 5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly 6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time. 7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas 9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into place. 14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!

The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.

Heat deflector was covered in melted plastic

Someone I'm related to by marriage accidentally dried a plastic-coated tablecloth on high heat, and our heat deflector was hosed. I was very happy to find this part here for such a reasonable price; Sears wanted about $65 for it. Installation required a Torx bit, and removing the old one was easy, but the dryer's design made it difficult to reinstall the heat deflector while keeping the dryer running concentrically. I ended up cutting the heads off three screws, threading those into the plate behind the drum, sliding the new heat deflector on over those, and then one by one replacing them with the original Torx head screws. Once I figured it out it didn't take long but it took me a while to figure it out. That's probably more a reflection on me than the dryer!

Easy repair. Removed top of dryer and removed two screws to front panel and door assembly. Old front air duct assembly was worn and broken, so it literally fell off the panel. I cleaned the front panel and door assembly of all the lint and dirt, and snapped the new parts into place. The new parts came with the gasket and felt drum seal already installed, to all that had to be done was to snap it into place. Installing the drum slides was a breeze. I simply had to slide one end in the slot, position the hole over the pin, and slide the other end in. I put everything back together, and ran a full cycle for test. Dryer works like new, and run quiet.

Dryer wouldn't heat up

I wanted to fix the cheapest possible problem first which was the thermostat.

Got the dryer apart and it was the wrong thermostat for the dryer, which was good news! I looked in inside floor of the dryer cabinet and saw alot of tiny "springs". Couldn't figure how they got there.

Turned out they were coils from the heating element. Must have burnt out and fell free from the element. So I ordered that and replaced it.

I want to say that I'm in NJ and I ordered that thermostat and got it in ONE DAY! Thought that was too good to be true but when I ordered the heating element THAT CAME IN ONE DAY!

I don't know what kind of people work in the shipping department but they are awesome! You really made the difference on this job.

So did the info on your website. I've never even seen a dryer apart before. It was a piece of cake thanks to you guys. You just saved me about $500.

I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it.I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first! Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another.Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it. I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post.Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge.Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel. I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter.Put on the top panel and done!

Dryer not heating. When moving it away from wall it was sparking badly where the cord hooks up.

Removed case parts to expose internal wiring. Vacuumed up various types of mouse debris and plugged hole they were using. Ordered terminal block to replace the one that melted while sparks were flying. Replaced power cord with one I had in my basement from some other appliance that died a while ago. "Hey honey, ya know those old parts I saved..." :) Now it is heating to capacity and no spark-show! Oh yeah, the part I ordered from Partselect.com was delivered to my door the next day!!!!! Wow!