right now i have a jl hd 600.4 powering 4 xs-650's and a 12" jl w3. I'm adding a set of rev10's and want to get more than 300 watts going to the sub than i currently am.. What i'm thinking is using the hd bridged to the rev10's to give them 300w each and adding a seperate sub amp and 2 channel amp for the xs650's. My initial thought was to stay with class d amps to keep it more efficient and not having to worry about adding a huge battery bank and overheating amps. The other option i'm considering is the arc 300.4 to the towers using the hd600 for just the in boats and adding a monoblock for the sub.

1 syn 4 can cure either of your problems or 2 will cure both...
1 syn4 to rev10's leaving everything else alone or
1 syn4 to the sub (400watts) of channels 3&4, then 4 xs650's (100watts a speaker) off channel 1&2. Then put the 600.4 to the revs (300watts) bridged...
Or
1 syn4 for the Revs (400watts each) bridged then another syn4 for the inboats (100watts each) and the sub (400watts)...

I'd like to get more volume and bass from the sub area is why i'm thinking a dedicated amp or something with more power. I'm not sure if i want to add a second 12w3 down the road or just get a different single driver that would handle more power but wanted to have the option. Would adding a 100w extra to the sub from the syn4 really be that noticeable? Right now its in a sealed box under the helm firing towards the outside of the boat( starboard wall). The 12w3 is 4ohm btw. I've always been a fan of regulated power supplies so you're getting true rms all the time, but i can't say i've really owned anything unregulated so maybe its not that big a deal?

No, that 100 watts difference as rated will not make an audible difference. If upgrading power to the sub then go up to the full thermal power rating with a strictly regulated amplifier and no less. Or, go just a little higher than thermal with a conservatively rated unregulated amplifier (maybe 100+ watts).
Keep in mind that amplifiers are rated at 14.4 volts and you can't get that voltage in a boat. It's like rating your car horsepower with jet fuel. It's impressive although you can't get it at the pump.

Then I would still suggest the Syn4 and porting the 12w3 under the helm and facing it rear.... Just porting it will jump the output....
If you want to stick strictly to the new style class D like JL then do a HD750 to the Revs and leave the rest alone, but port the sub... Or run the 600.4 to the Revs and get a HD900.5 to run the inboats and sub... Or sell the 600.4 and rock a HD900.5 and HD750 only with the best power option from there line... The Later is the best option sticking with JL product...

I think there are plenty of great amplifier options. Don't forget about the Wetsounds SD Class D amplifiers. My only firm suggestion is to find a place for the existing JL Audio HD600/4 in your plan. That's a strictly regulated dual-power-supply Class D amplifier. Don't let that one get away.

I think I'm going to go w the Jl 600.4 on in boats, arc 300.4 to the rev10, and Jl jx 1000 to the sub. Next question is about batteries and alternator.. Right now I have two of the group 27 marine batteries from Costco I plan on adding at least another. Last season I upgraded the alternator from 51amp to a 70a after the original crapped out. Do you think Ill need a bigger one? My storage unit doesn't have 120v power and the boat is 30 miles from my house so an onboard charger isn't really an option

These amps are really great. I have a D4000.4 and am adding a D5000.5 this year as well. Great sound quality, great power and a really good price. It seems like everyone here things Wetsounds and Exile amps are the only games in town. If money is no object - sure, go with a Wetsounds amp. If you have a budget, look elsewhere.

NVX and PPI also sell versions of these amps (as do other brands, but those are very hard to find). Two of the 2000.2's will run you $324 and will give you 500 watts to your sub and 125 to your inboats. Name a Wetsounds, JL, Arc, Exile, etc. amp set that can do that for anywhere near $324.

nitrous, i saw that amp on sonic too. i was going to use the jl 600.4 on the tower and pick up that polk for the in boats, but i'm starting to think that if i go with the jl on the rev's that i'm going to want more power to them.. Anyone feel free to chime in though, as this is my first tower set up and i've not heard any of the rev series before

Honestly, Id try to get the Rev 10s up around 400 watts RMS a piece. Im not sure how much a 100 watts rms will effect them, but running more headroom would b better on the amps, and if your already thinking about more power to them, Id do it the first time. If your wanting more bass, you have a lot of room to upgrade that single 12w3 to a w7 or something thatll handle more power and get louder before adding a 2nd sub. At least port what you have if it isnt enough. Thats just my .02 tho

How much power is really needed for tower speakers? I have 100watts to each & I can tell I am going to need more. But also when I read the ratings all the amps that say they are 200 watts at 14volts and only 100w at 12volts? How do you boost that up so we can harness the power?

Jack,
I would take 75 percent of the amplifier's 14.4 volt rating and match that up with the speaker's thermal rating. In consideration of the damage risk I would consider that the absolute maximum for most people. Matching the 14.4 volt power to the speaker's thermal rating will be a drop in real world power but not to the audible extent that you might think. It's going to take a one/quarter reduction in power or a one/third increase in power before you could just notice a difference.

I would definately be carefully where you buy! There are a lot of grey market internet dealers that sell subpar electronics and pass them off as the real thing. I learned my lesson from buying at sites like sonics (and including them) in the past. Its worth it to do your research or buy from licensed internet dealers for a little more money.

Sonic is a very legit internet dealer. I've bought more than my fair share from them. Actually had a JL 4 channel go bad about 6 months after I had it and they warranty it no questions asked. They sell the real thing. It may not be wetsounds but its just as good and 1/3 of the price. Not hating a wetsounds as I have a piar of REV 10's but you can get amps just as good for a whole lot less.

Just to be clear, Sonic Electronix is not a JL Audio dealer. So the only warranty given is that by Sonic Electrionix which is clearly stated by JL Audio and Sonic under the warranty provider. Now before buying JL from Sonic, ask for the serial number on the unit you are buying. Then call that serial number into JL. If the serial number is bogus to protect their supplier or source, how do feel about that? Just for your digestion.

Just to be clear, Sonic Electronix is not a JL Audio dealer. So the only warranty given is that by Sonic Electrionix which is clearly stated by JL Audio and Sonic under the warranty provider. Now before buying JL from Sonic, ask for the serial number on the unit you are buying. Then call that serial number into JL. If the serial number is bogus to protect their supplier or source, how do feel about that? Just for your digestion.

I know I'd be fine with it. Sonic has been around a while and if they are willing to warranty it, why would I give two craps whether they are an authorized dealer or not? I do give two craps about spending hundreds of dollars more just to get the same product from an "authorized dealer."

Well, that would include shipping. And, there certainly are discounts from any authorized dealer that are not stated. And an authorized dealer knows the product they sell. But, hey, if you already know everything, don't need support, don't need installation, don't place value on a factory warranty, then why would you look past an unauthorized dealer or ebay. Not here to argue. The fact remains that there is no factory warranty or support. That might be a concern for some. Others, not at all.

Problem with support is a authorized dealer internet or local audio place will push the product they sell and get the most profit on ( I don't blame them) which in most cases isn't the best porduct for the money or application. With the internet and other resources its easier to do your on reaearch and save a ton of money.

The reason I brought that up was quality of the actual product, not service or warranty related. A few years ago when I was buying my original boat stereo I did something similar, I bought a nice set of tower speakers and tried to save money on an amp from an online dealer. I researched prices and found a full range Boston accoustics full range amp that I thought was gonna be perfect! I paid $235 with a store warranty (regularly $449 I think) so I thought I got a good deal. Once I received it, the product "looked" like the product, had the same inputs and badging but was clearly not the right "feel" of a quality product like advertised. I tore it down and researched online and realized that I was definately not the same product as I thought I was buying. I even hooked it up to see how it sounded, it sounded marginal but not good by any means. I then measured the voltage output to verify power and it was no where close to advertised. I returned it the next day minus the 25% restocking fee and have bought from a reputable online dealer ever since. The moral of the story is, things aren't always what they seem. Plenty of online dealers are great but plenty are not, so choose wisely.

I know people that have bought JL Audio from Sonic. Some amps have been received DEAD ON ARRIVAL. Guess what Sonic does? They say - send it to them, they send it for repair, it's sent back to them from the repair facility, then it's sent back out to the buyer. That takes 6 weeks - so they said.

So with that money you saved, you'll need to buy a spare amp to replace the one that's ****ed up - that doesn't have a warranty, and has no serial numbers.

Wonder how law enforcement would handle seeing a piece of audio equipment with no serial numbers? Looks just like the ones reported stolen a few nights ago.....

There's a reason for authorized dealers. They take care of business and make things happen - which is exactly what online retailers like Sonic DONT do.

John B, I see your point but thats a bit extreme... cops take stolen reports over the phone if theyll take one at all anymore. pretty sure the last place they'd root around is in a boat compartment looking for serial numbers. On the flip side I know people who've bought jl audio from sonic and got genuine jl working product. A warranty is only as good as the retailer and once your equipment is used most of them are sending it out and your sol either way. I've had local authorized dealers do absolutely nothing... I'm sure there's hundres or thousands of stories for both sides. I think having a good local shop means something so I try and support business around me for that reason though.

A "good" local shop will keep most people from buying off the net. Unfortunately there are the local shops that don't take care of business. And for that, the internet makes the sale. It's sad. I've been instaling since the mid 90's, and I absolutely HATE what it has come to. I own a shop, but for it to survive, me and the other guy have to have full-time jobs elsewhere. Mine is on a swing shift so it still gives me time during the week to maintain business. My personal cell phone is the main point of contact, and I'm pretty much working or doing business 24/7. I've got customers from as far as 10 hours away that have driven to my shop to buy or support, and it's all for one reason - CUSTOMER SUPPORT!