Purple Barley Is Delicious, Healthy, and, Yes, Purple

It’s cute that we keep “discovering” ancient grains. But there is something to be said for adding a new element to the plate—and bowl. Your life doesn’t have to be brown rice forever.

Just when I’d tired of every shade of quinoa, decided that farro and my digestive tract weren’t BFFs, and lost interest in trying to track down freekeh within a few ZIP codes, I got a bag of purple barley in my Farm to People box, a weekly delivery of local produce that’s like an amped-up CSA. (Full disclosure: I do consulting work for them.)

Grown by Timeless Foods, the purple barley has a slightly smoky flavor and a chewier, less-gummy texture than your usual beige-ish barley, which can be oddly…unctuous—more overcooked-pasta than sauce-vehicle in texture. Because it retains its color, purple barley is not only more fun when anchoring a grain bowl or shoring up a salad, it’s also much easier to get into the mouth of a child.

Is it better for you? According to the folks at Timeless Foods it is, with 15 percent protein, an almost absurd level of fiber, plus iron, calcium, and potassium. The dark-purple seed coat is also high in the antioxidants known as anthocyanins—apparently higher than cultivated blueberries. It’s also true that heritage grains tend to be grown with better conditions and practices (organic, non-GMO), and are often easier to tolerate for those with celiac. (This barley, however, is packaged in a plant with wheat.)

And if you don’t want to order online, take a closer look at your farmer’s market or health-food store: More small farms are starting to grow interesting grains. Chances are, they offer new-yet-ancient types of flour and dried beans, too.

Some might think that introducing colorful strains of familiar grains is some kind of cynical hippie “marketing” ploy; a way to get us to buy the same thing in a different hue. But unlike, say, handbags or plastic toys, the more diversity there is in the soil and on the plate, the better. In this case, these oldies really are goodies.