Tutorials

Monday, April 13, 2015

I don't know if you've ever seen the show, Fixer Upper on HGTV, but the first time I saw it, I was hooked. It's set in Waco, Texas and stars a couple, Chip and Joanna, who renovate houses for their clients. The work they do is amazing, but the reason we keep coming back for the show, is the couple themselves. Chip is hilarious, Joanna is adorable and supportive of his shenanigans, and both of them are extremely talented.

Seriously, I feel like they are our friends. This is the kind of show you can watch with your husband, and he might not even complain. He might even want to rewind and watch certain parts over, because it's that funny.

Anyway, at the end of every show they reveal the renovation to the home owners. It's inspirational to say the least. After watching a few episodes, I noticed that on most of the houses, Joanna adds a simple magnolia wreath to the front door, symbolic of her company's name, Magnolia Homes.

I checked out her website and found that she does sell them, but I cannot afford the $88 price tag right now (ever). So I made one.

I checked out Hobby Lobby to see what kind of magnolia leaves they had in their silk flower department. Those leaves were the wrong texture, and buying enough for a whole wreath would still be more than $30. I was considering it, but I left without them because of the cost.

And then my neighbors did a little tree trimming. Literally the day after I left Hobby Lobby empty handed, my neighbors stacked up a pile of magnolia branches taller than me. YES!

I asked Donnie to go gather some for me, but since we actually know our neighbors a little, he couldn't bring himself to it. So I got up really early one morning and went and got my own. I may have gone a little overboard, but I didn't want to have to go back!

This is the back seat of my mini-van. You can only see about half of them!

I took them inside and got to work making my own Fixer-Upper style wreath. All you need is a wire frame, some magnolia branches (about 10. not 50 like you see here.), green floral wire, a faux magnolia flower (optional)

For instructions, go to my Christmas wreath tutorial here. It was actually even easier than that one, because I only used the one type of branch. Also, magnolia is much easier on the hands than pine needles!

Here's the final result:

This wreath is huge! When I first put it on the door, I couldn't see out of the peephole at all, so I clipped a bunch of the leaves in the middle to make it more wreath-like.

I also added the flower on the bottom right, instead of a bow or something. The flower isn't real, but it was only a few bucks and it blends in well.

I've had the magnolia wreath on the door for a couple months now, and even though the leaves have dried out and turned brown, it is still gorgeous, and I get comments on it all the time. I kinda love it.

Now it's your turn! Find a friend whose magnolia tree needs a trim, and make your own fixer-upper-style wreath! And be sure to link to yours in the comments so we can see your work!

I sourced some supplies for you, as well as some beautiful ready-made options if you don't have the time to d-i-y!

(affiliate links--thank you for supporting this blog!)

Here are some more posts on (cheap or free!) wreaths and painted front doors, in case you are interested:

Friday, October 10, 2014

Hello! You made it to part 10 of our series 31 DAYS of Giving Handmade! You can find links to the entire series, in order, on our Giving Handmade Index Page. I'll add each new link as that day is published.

{Leafy Wool Wreath}

Handmade gifts don't always have to be wrapped up in a package, and they don't have to wait for Christmas, either. How fun would it be to surprise a friend with this autumn-inspired wreath! It took less than an hour to make, and since I had all the materials, it cost me $0. You cannot beat that.

{materials}

Here's what you need -

:: pizza box or large piece of cardboard

:: wreath form or large bowl to trace (mine was about 14 inches)

:: scissors for cutting paper and fabric

:: several wool skirts in similar tones (I used yellows and greys) You could also just buy felt.

:: glue gun

:: stapler and staples

:: bias tape or ribbon for hanging

{instructions}

1) Trace your wreath shape onto the pizza box lid. Mine extended to the bent parts of the box, but it didn't seem to matter at the end. If you used a bowl for tracing, draw another circle about 3 inches inside the first one. Carefully cut it out.

2) Prepare your fabric. If you are using wool skirts, make sure they have been washed in hot water and dried in the dryer. This will bind the wool fibers into a felt-like material. You could also use store-bought felt, or even paper if your wreath will be kept inside. Make a simple leaf template out of cardstock or cardboard from your pizza box. My leaf was about 4.5 inches long with a flat edge along the bottom.

3) Cut out lots of leaves. I started out tracing them onto the fabric, but that was taking too long. After that, just holding the pattern and cutting around it worked fine. I'm guessing I have about 65 leaves or so on the final wreath.

4) Fold each leaf over at the flat end so that both sides overlap slightly. Staple all of the leaves this way.

5) Mark the half-way point on the top and bottom of your wreath form. Starting at the bottom, arrange the leaves, overlapping them slightly for fullness. Use the glue gun to secure the stapled end, but leave the tips free. This might take a little practice to figure out the technique, but once you get it, it goes really fast. When you get to your mark at the top, start the other side from the bottom again. Try to keep the colors balanced on each side, without making it look too symmetrical.

6) When you are finished with the whole round, hold it out and look for bare cardboard spots. Fill them with leaves, or glue existing leaves down to cover them.

7) Wrap your bias tape or ribbon around the top with a spot of glue, and it's ready to hang!

:: If you make a wreath from this tutorial, leave a link to it in the comments! I'd love to show it off to the rest of my readers!

Thursday, September 04, 2014

As we move around the world in geography, I thought it would be fun to learn about some artists in each of the countries that we visit. But what fun is an art class with only two people in it? Not as much fun as inviting some friends to come and join in. Our first American artist is Jasper Johns. This was an easy pick, because he painted iconic symbols of America, like the map, and the United States flag.

To start, lightly draw a grid on the paper with the pencil, 5 boxes across, and 5 boxes down. These will be the spaces for each letter. You might wonder how we fit 26 letters into 25 spaces. We sneaked the "I" between two of the boxes. See the original below.

While you are making the grid, you can give your child a scrap of watercolor paper and some crayons to experiment with. Then show them how the wax resists the watercolor when painted over the crayon lines.

Now you are ready to make the letters. Using the stencils or free-handing, outline all 26 letters in pencil. Then, use the crayons to color the letters in. You can make them all the same color, or make patterns within each letter. The harder you press on the crayons, the more wax that is transferred to the paper, and the better it will resist the watercolor.

After all the letters are colored, it's time to paint! To make the borders of the boxes more defined, we painted a line on the border, and then filled in the box. This is not necessary, though. It's fun to experiment and try different techniques.

Some of our artists used lots of different paint colors in each box, while others used just one. See how the paint changes when you add more water.

A good practice when changing colors is 1) swish in the water, 2) tap on the edge of the cup to let some water drip off, and 3) blot the water on a paper towel. Personally though, I love to mix colors, and I don't mind when they blend a little bit with each other.

And you're done! Don't forget to take a picture!

If you do this project with your kids at home, or with your class at school, let us know! I'd love to see how they interpreted the lesson! You can even share a link to your project in the comments, or on the facebook page.

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Yesterday I gave you a little peek at the tote bags I made for the kids' teachers. This is the first time I've ever made back-to-school gifts a priority. It's usually all I can muster to send a gift on the last day of school. And Christmas gifts for the teachers are hit and miss around here too. But last weekend I set aside some time to make them a little something to say thank you for all the prepping they've done to be ready for the school year.

We picked out the fabric at Hobby Lobby, on one of our many school supply runs last week. (I am so glad that's over!!!) Emma picked the green chevron, and Ethan chose the orange print. For your bag, you'll need 1/2 yard of solid natural canvas, and 1/2 yard printed canvas. (This fabric is also called duck.)

Cut the solid fabric into three pieces:

Cut 1 - 21x27 inches (body)

Cut 2 - 4x38 inches (straps)

Cut the print into two pieces:

Cut 2 - 12x21 inches (contrasting trim)

The width of the bag is 21 inches, so be sure to turn your trim fabric the right way so the design isn't sideways.

First, take the two long strips and make the straps.

For the Straps:

Press the strip flat with the iron. Then fold lengthwise and press, making a crease. Open the strip again and carefully fold the top and bottom edges toward the middle crease, 1/2 inch, pressing as you go. Fold the strip back together lengthwise, making sure the edges are now caught inside. Pin and sew 1/4 inch down both sides of the strap. Repeat for the second strap. Set aside.

Sew the bag:

For the body of the bag, bring the two 21-inch sides together, so that the fold forms the bottom of the bag. Sew along the sides. Since the bag isn't lined, finish the edges with a zigzag stitch or serger to prevent fraying.

Next, take both of the contrast (trim) fabric pieces, place right sides together, and sew along the both of the short sides to form a tube.

Turn both the body of the bag and the contrasting trim right-side-out.

Put it all together:

1. With both fabrics right side out, slide the trim fabric inside the body of the bag until the top edges of both pieces are even.

2. Sew around the whole bag, lining up seams, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Pull the un-sewn edge of the contrasting fabric out of the bag and smooth everything flat. The bag should be right side out at this point, and the trim should be wrong side out.

3. At the top edge of the trim, turn out 1/2 inch all the way around and press. Then bring this pressed edge down to cover the line of stitching on the outside of the bag. Press the folded trim fabric in place.

4. Measure in from the sides 4 1/2 inches, and insert each end of one strap. Make sure it's not twisted, and pin into place. Turn the bag over and repeat with the other strap. Once both straps are pinned, sew them in place with top stitching 1/4 inch from the bottom edge of the trim.

5. Fold the straps up into their final position and pin. With the straps pinned in place, top stitch the entire upper edge of the bag, 1/4 inch from the edge.

6. Reinforce the straps by sewing them down to the trim fabric in a rectangle or crisscross shape.

If you want, you can call your bag finished at this point! But if you would like to square off the bottom for a 3-dimensional bag, go on to the next step.

Square off the bottom:

Turn the bag inside out, and fold the corner in half, so that the seam goes straight up the middle. (See below.) Make sure that the fabric on the top and underneath this triangle is all smooth and flat.

Measure up the center seam 3 inches. Draw a line that is exactly perpendicular to the corner seam. A clear ruler is helpful for this stage, because you can line up the grid with the seam.

Pin the fabric together so it stays in place, and sew along the line. I sewed over the line three times to reinforce it. Leave the flaps inside the bag to keep it sturdy.

Flip the bag right side out again and admire your sharp corners! Clip any threads that are hanging around, and you are finished!!

Tote bags make great gifts because they are useful, cute, and can even be re-gifted without too much guilt. They make great library bags, shopping bags, or even a light day-at-the-beach bag. We filled our totes up with school supplies, which we were taking to school anyway, and told the teachers that the canvas bags were theirs to keep. I think it was nice to know that someone had thought of them on such a crazy, hectic day.

::

If there is any part of this tutorial that doesn't seem clear, leave me a note in the comments and I'll try to clear it up.

::

If you use this tutorial to make your own teacher tote, please let me know! I love to see how others interpret my designs!

::

Want to pin this tutorial for later? Hover over any of the photos in this post, and a "pin it" button will appear. How easy is that!

Friday, June 07, 2013

Today is the first day of summer break. I thought it would never get here. The combination of early-morning lunch packing, breakfasts and drop-offs; sleepless nights with my newborn; and a relentlessly energetic toddler have made the last six weeks feel like I'm running through waist-deep mud. I am so glad summer is finally here!

Yesterday was the last day, and I wanted so badly to blow off the idea of teacher gifts. But I couldn't let it go. These women have spent so much time building into my kids. How could I let the year end without doing something special for them?

So I decided to make them some tote bags, because who doesn't love a tote bag?

Aren't they cute? Would you believe that these only cost about $4 each, and took less than an hour to do all three! It's true.

The secret is starting with these pretty reusable totes that I found at Walmart. They were near the checkout lines. $4 each. Score.

Next, print off your monogram onto regular printer paper. The space between the straps was almost exactly 7 1/2 inches, so print it out nice and big.

Cut the paper letters out. This is your pattern.

Next you'll need some coordinating fabrics, and some fusible web.

There are several brands of webbing available. Just make sure that you get the "sewable" kind. The no-sew will gunk up your sewing machine needle.

Following the directions on the package, iron a piece of paper-backed adhesive web to the wrong side of the fabric. The webbing and the fabric should be as big as the letter pattern you made.

Turn the fabric paper side up, and trace your letter up-side-down. (You must trace the mirror image onto the paper, so it turns out right.) Cut it out.

Then, carefully peel the paper backing off of the fabric, making sure that the adhesive is still stuck to the fabric. Position the monogram exactly where you want it on the bag, cover with a dishtowel to protect the bag fabric, and iron to set the adhesive. **Note: the bags I bought had a pocket on the inside. Make sure you place the monogram on the side without the pocket.!** Again, be sure to read the package, because some brands require steam at this point, and some don't.

Be careful not to melt the bag with the iron!

When you are done with this step, it should look something like this:

So cute, right?

For the final step, rev up your sewing machine, and sew a straight stitch once or twice around the very edge of the monogram. This will hold it in place and give it a little visual border that will help it stand out from the pattern on the bag.

These were a hit with the teachers! They felt special, and I didn't lose any more sleep over it than I needed to.

Emma with Mrs. Williams on the last day.

I like how these turned out so much, that I may have to make one for myself.

If you make one using this tutorial, let me know! I'd love to see how yours turned out.

And make sure you pin this tutorial onto your pinterest board so you can get to it next time you need an easy gift idea. You can follow mine here.

Using about 3-4 inches of 1/4 inch ribbon, glue one end to the center of the clip.

Wrap the ribbon around the front, and trim to 1 inch past the glued end of the ribbon.

Place a line of hot glue on the end of this ribbon, about 1/2 inch long. Fold it over to make a clean edge.

Pull the folded end tight and secure it on top of the other end with more hot glue. Make sure it's nice and straight, and pull off any glue strings after the glue has cooled.

Remember to replace the insert so the bow will hold hair securely!

And there you have it.

Remember to seal your ends with a candle the way I showed you last time.

Have you made any hair bows yet using these tutorials? If you have, I want to see them! I love seeing your interpretations of my projects.

And for those of you who are having trouble with these layered/sewn/hot glued bows, I am working on part three right now. No sewing, gluing, or layering required. The easiest bows ever invented. So make sure you come back to check it out!

And if you haven't already, sign up here to get my blog posts sent directly to your inbox.

Tuesday, March 05, 2013

A couple weeks ago I was looking for some space on a shelf, and I noticed that I had three containers of ribbon. Grosgrain, satin, organza, I love them all, but I'd become a bit of a hoarder. The last time I remembered using a substantial amount of ribbon for a project was at least four years ago.

I have moved twice in the last four years, which means that I have packed up these three containers twice without using much from them. And here they were, taking up valuable storage real estate. No more!

Pretty, layered bows can get really expensive. When I was designing and selling children's clothing on eBay, one of the bow makers in my design group would sometimes get 20-30 bucks for a pair of bows! Ribbon is not expensive, and when you know a couple little tricks, bow making is not too difficult. Save your money!

The first step is gathering supplies. You need ribbon. I like Grosgrain Ribbon, because it holds it's shape a little bit and doesn't get too wrinkled over time. Grosgrain is the ribbon that has little horizontal ridges along the length. For each bow, you'll need about 3/4 yards, per ribbon type. (If you are making a pair of layered bows like the ones in this tutorial, you'll need 1 1/2 yards, times three types of ribbon.) Buy extra ribbon if you like to change your mind--you might want to add extra loops or make an extra bow. It's better to have extra than to run out when you're on a roll. (Are you getting some insight into what made me a ribbon hoarder?)

Before we get started folding, sewing, cutting, and gluing, I want to tell you about this important trick. Always seal the edges of your cut ribbon to prevent fraying. You don't want to go to all this trouble, just to have your ribbon come apart on you over time. You can use a fray-check liquid on the ends, but I've noticed that it leaves a visible residue.

Here's what I do:

Light a candle, and hold the end of the ribbon just close enough to melt the very tip of the ribbon edge. Be careful not to burn it! If you are unsure whether it worked, wait a second for it to cool, and run your fingers across the edge. You should feel a tiny ridge where the fibers have melded together.

I usually wait until the bows are completely finished to do this, but there are several points at which you might want to stop and seal them. Just wait until you know you are done trimming.

The secret to perky hairbows is in the folding. My bows are not tied or twisted. Each section is folded, accordion-style, and held next to the other sections for sewing. It might take a couple tries to get right your first time, but the method makes nice, big, fluffy bows every time.

For the bottom layer of these bows, I chose a 1-inch-wide piece of grosgrain. I start by trimming the end into a nice 45-degree point. Don't cut the other end of the ribbon until you are sure you like your bow. I have been known to refold 4-5 times before I'm happy with it. For the first fold, I folded one side down, and one side up, about 2 inches from the end of the ribbon. I like to see a little pucker in the top of the ribbon, since that is what holds to finished bow in place. Pinch tight with your fingers, and start the first loop.

To make your first loop, estimate the size of the loop, and fold it under to meet back at the pinch. Each ribbon is different, so try a couple different folding options to see what looks the best. For this one, I made two pleats again, first down, then up. Lay these pleats next to the first set and proceed to the other side.

You'll notice that I'm working on my measured cutting mat. I don't usually measure the loops, but if you are noticing that yours are looking wildly different, measure them against each other and adjust.

Once you have made all the loops that you want, trim the tail to match the other side. If it is looking too wonky at this point, don't be afraid to let it all go and try again. It does take a little practice to get comfortable. Keep holding all those pleats and grab your threaded needle.

Stab the needle through the center of the pleats, making sure to catch every fold. Pull the thread through, over the top of the bow center, and through the front again. I like to sew through and over three stitches, and then through and under three stitches. Kind of like sewing on a button. When you are finished, tie another sturdy knot and clip the thread.

If you are making a set of matching bows, this is the time to make your second bottom layer bow. Compare the two as you go to keep them the same size.

This is my second layer bow. I made it almost exactly the same size as the bottom layer--maybe a tiny bit smaller. This will make for a fun, poufy bow. I folded this one using a single pleat each time. Down one way, and up the other way. Try out different folds to see what you like.

My top layer is only a two-loop bow, also with a single pleat each time.

Once you have all the elements of your bows made and sewn, line them up and grab your glue gun.

Step Two :: Glue Gun

(I can't believe I'm letting you see how messy my glue gun looks.)

Keep the glue right in the center of all those pinched pleats. Then place the next layer on top and press down to secure. Don't burn your fingers!

Glue each layer and let cool. Tip:: don't pull gluey strings until the glue has cooled. They'll snap right off.

Step Three :: Attach the Clip

Anyone know what these clips are called? I have no idea, but I like them the best for my kids' hair. You can also use those alligator-type clips with no problem. Before attaching the clip to the bow, take out the inserted piece and set it aside. You'll put it back at the end.

Hot glue the length of the clip to the bottom of the bow. Wait for it to cool. You're almost done!

Cut a 3-4 inch length of ribbon that matches the top bow layer. This will be the center knot.

Hot glue the center of the ribbon to the back of the clip. Then flip the bow over and tie a double knot on the top of the bow. This looks cute, but it also helps to hold everything together.

Pop the insert back into the clip.

Now repeat all those steps to make your matching pair! If you haven't already, stop and seal the ribbon edges.

Thursday, February 28, 2013

Getting the kids ready and out the door for school each morning can be a circus.

We have school clothes, breakfast, packing lunches, teeth brushing, gathering backpacks and homework...the last thing on the list is hair.

And if I don't know exactly where to find a hair bow in that last minute before go-time, Emma's going to have to go without.

She has gone without many, many times.

So I made some of these:

With a few simple elements, I made three hair-bow hangers for Emma's bedroom door. They are out of the way, easy to reach, and they hold every last hair bow in this house.

Here's how you can make one (or three) of your own.

1. Picture frames. I had a few extras around the house that weren't being used, and removed the backs and the glass. They were already black, so I gave them a couple coats of light blue craft paint. When that was dry, I painted on some teal streaks, and then wiped off some of the teal paint with a paper towel before it had time to dry. The paper towel took off some of the blue paint too, so the black shows through. So easy, and it matches Emma's room.

2. Use a sturdy ribbon like grosgrain that will look cute with the frames. I have been a bit of a ribbon hoarder, so I had this on hand, too. I love projects that use up some of my hoard!

3. Measure three inches longer than the opening of the frame. Cut 3 or 4 ribbons per frame, and tie a couple knots in each one. The knots will keep the bows from sliding down the ribbon and puddling at the bottom.

4. Make sure the ribbons are facing the right way, pull taut, and staple with a staple gun. Space your ribbons evenly across the opening of the frame.

5. Now your hangers are ready to fill with hair bows!

We put ours on the back of Emma's bedroom door. They were wobbling a little with in and out traffic, so I added some hot glue to keep them steady. It'll just pop right off when we're ready to move them somewhere else.

Organize by size or color, or just get them up there so you can see what you have.

One morning task made so much easier.

Let me know if you make a set for yourself! I'd love to see your version.

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

I made these pillow covers last week to cover up some brown tapestry floor pillows that have been around our house for most of our marriage. Donnie loves to use them while watching movies with the kids, but I kept finding myself stashing them in corners when they weren't in use, because they were just so ugly.

See for yourself:

The old covers were dark, worn, and icky. So I pulled out some supplies and got to work. If you want to make some for yourself, here's what you'll need:

For the base fabric, I used the same canvas drop cloth that I used for the custom storage bins in the the kids' room. I still have lots of it left. I wonder how many projects I'll get out of it. The painter's tape was left over from the dining room paint job, the fusible web was from Emma's teacher gift last year, and the linen fabric is either from other projects, or thrifted clothing items I bought for the purpose of reusing the linen. The linen probably cost around $2, the craft paint $2, and the textile medium was $2. If you are buying fusible web for this project, make sure you buy the kind you can sew into, the thinner the better. I used heat n bond for this project.

To make the stripes for the back of the pillows, draw pencil lines 1 1/2 inches apart (or the width of your tape) with your clear ruler as a guide. Carefully place your tape along every other line. Mix your paint with the textile medium, at a 2:1 ratio. I eyeballed two globs of paint to one squirt of medium. Worked fine. The medium is sticky and helps the paint adhere to fabric permanently. I think it also improves the texture.

As the paint starts to dry, remove the tape to reveal your stripes!

If you are feeling kinda cheap, save the tape from your first pillow back, and use it to paint your second one. It sticks enough for both and saves you, I dunno, $.25?

After your stripes have dried overnight, iron them with a cover cloth to set the paint. Then throw in the washer and dryer so the paint softens up a bit.

Next, applique the first pillow front.

1. Make a pattern by printing out your letters in a font you like. Cut it out. Fuse the adhesive-backed paper webbing to the fabric with an iron. Place the letter face down on the paper and trace around the pattern. Cut it out. 2. To make perfect guidelines on your canvas, fold it in half and press along the fold with a warm iron. Then fold it the other way, so you have four equal squares. Line your appliques along these guides. Peel the backing off of the fabric applique. 3. Making sure the letters are exactly where you want them, fuse them to the canvas with the iron, following the instructions on the package. 4. Sew a straight stitch in black thread around each letter. I like to outline them twice, not being too careful, so it makes a slightly scribbley outline. What's the point in hand-making something if it looks like a machine made it?

For the second pillow front, I made a pattern for a equilateral triangle, and cut several out of each color linen, backed with iron-on adhesive. I had a few more scraps with backing left, so I made a couple half-triangles, too. Then I ironed everything in place.

And stitched close to the edges of the appliques.

I took the zippers off of the original pillows and used them to close the covers, but you could easily make an envelope back or just sew the pillow closed with a slip stitch.

Now instead of hiding these pillows, I'm moving them all over the house to see where I like them the best.

The 1 1/2 inch stripes turned out to be the perfect proportion for these 22-inch pillows. The paint, after being washed, still has a little bit of a stiff texture to it--kind of like indoor/outdoor fabric. But it does not feel like paint.

Just like with every creative project, instead of running out of ideas, it has inspired several more. Like, what else can I do with this canvas drop cloth? And, what other home-fabrics could use a painted design?

So while I think about what's next, I'll let you go and make yourself a set of your own.

Thursday, April 19, 2012

With some home-sewn canvas boxes. You can make them in any size. And they are way easier than they look. Canvas boxes can cost a lot of money, but these literally cost me about $10 for the whole set!

The secret to these is the frame. It's made from plastic canvas! This inexpensive material can be found at any craft store. Mine was $.99 for a 10x13 inch sturdy sheet, and $.49 for a slightly more flimsy piece. I used the regular for the sides, and the sturdy for the bottom.

My tutorial will take you through the process for making one smaller bin, like those on the top shelf in the picture above. (The dimensions are 6"w x 9"h x 9 1/2"d.)

*Fabric: 3/4 yards each of canvas and lining. Coordinating fabric for binding (1 1/2" wide x about 36 inches long) I used an old canvas drop cloth for the outer fabric, and for the prints, thrifted sheets. Cheap!

Step 2: Prepare the plastic canvas

From the sturdy piece cut 1 - 6"x9 1/2" for the bottom.

For the sides, 2 - 9"x9 1/2" and 2 6"x9" pieces

Lash the sides to the base with yarn. Tie really good knots. Leave flat for the next part. (Should be in the shape of a wide cross.)

Lay out the flat frame on your pattern paper, and carefully trace around the entire perimeter. Be careful not to shift the plastic canvas while you are tracing.

Put the paper aside until the next step, and sew up the sides of your box frame. Tie really good knots.

Step 3: Make the pattern

With your ruler, add a 1/2" seam allowance to the inner corners of your pattern. Do not add seam allowance to the top edges of the box pattern.

Cut out your pattern.

Step 4: Cut fabric

Lay out your pattern on top of the fabric, and use weights to keep it from rolling or shifting. You can use anything as a weight. Here's my rag-tag assemblage:

Trace around the pattern in a pen or pencil--directly onto the fabric. This will give you the most accurate sizing, and you want your fabric to fit the box frame very closely.

Cut one from canvas and one from the lining fabric.

Cut out one rectangle for the handle from canvas--3"x6".

Step 5: Sew it together

Stitch up your pieces in this order. First, sew the box lining. Remember to use a 1/2" seam allowance! Start at the top edge (rim) of the lining, and sew toward the corner. Continue with each side until it forms a box shape.

Next, make your handles. Sew into a tube, lengthwise. Turn inside out and press flat. Turn the ends under.

Pin handles to your canvas before sewing up the edges. This makes for easier placement.

For added strength, sew a square with an "x" inside on each side of the handle.

After your handle is attached, sew up the sides of the canvas.

Attach the binding to the top edge of the canvas layer. Start by folding over the binding about 1" and sew all the way around using a 1/4" seam allowance. Overlap the binding a little at the end for a clean finish.

Step 6: Finish

Turn the canvas layer right-side-out and place your plastic frame inside. It should be snug. Carefully line up the seams with the corners of the frame.

Slip the lining inside, with the right side of the fabric showing. Line up the top edge of both fabrics with the top edge of the frame. Hold in place with binder clips.

With needle and thread, slip stitch binding in place.

And there you have it. You made a box!

Now make a few more, and clean your place up!

I hope you have fun using this tutorial to help organize your own space. I'd love to see how you make the project your own. I've always been a little prejudiced against plastic canvas as a craft supply, because everything I'd seen done with it seemed so dated. (You know what I mean...) But now I have seen the light, and I'm thinking up many more project ideas to use the stuff. It may just be a new favorite.\

Hello! I'm so glad you found me! I believe in living life with purpose and creativity, and I want to inspire you to do the same with project tutorials, craft ideas, and funny stories of real family life. Follow me as I strive to find the joy in every day!