Hi, my name is Michael and most of the time i have spent on knives.pl and knifeforums.com, but I have registered here recently.

My friend who is knifemaker in Poland has asked me recently to design a perfect knife for me:

This is what I have decided so far
Blade length 225-230mm
Blade width 49-50mm
Blade thickness 2 - 2.5mm
Steel: N690 or D2 (61 HRC)
Grind: I have problem with choosing right grind: Full Flat 60/40, 70/30 or Convex (I've seen SaltyDog's videos comparing different grinds)

Bladowski for a Polish knife sounds like someones sense of humor.........

jmforge

09-04-2011, 11:04 PM

But a good sales gimmick like having the last name Bowie or the first name Dirk.:biggrin:
Bladowski for a Polish knife sounds like someones sense of humor.........

MichaelD

09-05-2011, 01:40 AM

I would not use D2 for a kitchen knife.

Yoshikane, Sakon/ Damask use SKD11 which is D2, so way do you think is a bad idea to use D2 in the kitchen cutlery??

ajhuff

09-05-2011, 08:21 AM

Yoshihiro uses SKD11 core also.

-AJ

oivind_dahle

09-05-2011, 10:07 AM

D2 is semistainless, but I don't understand why a professional blade maker will use it. There are far more better steels out there i.e.: 52100

Marko Tsourkan

09-05-2011, 11:00 AM

Yoshikane, Sakon/ Damask use SKD11 which is D2, so way do you think is a bad idea to use D2 in the kitchen cutlery??

It is not a best steel for kitchen cutlery. Because of the carbides size and type, D2 will perform better as a field knife. But that said, you can make a kitchen knife from any steel. The subject of this thread, however, is to help making a perfect knife, so it might be worth it to look at other steels.

M

ajhuff

09-05-2011, 12:32 PM

I'm not even a knife expert but this smells foul to me. The best material for any application is the one that does the job within it's constraints. You can't define a best steel based on it's chemistry when you are measuring performance values like sharpness, edge retention etc.

-AJ

Marko Tsourkan

09-05-2011, 12:36 PM

I'm not even a knife expert but this smells foul to me. The best material for any application is the one that does the job within it's constraints. You can't define a best steel based on it's chemistry when you are measuring performance values like sharpness, edge retention etc.

-AJ

You are right. Perfect is a relative term. No argument here. I just haven't seen D2 being used much outside field knives. I think there are stainless steels that might be a better choice, but it is all relative.

M

Eamon Burke

09-05-2011, 01:34 PM

Kitchen knives typically benefit from having small, evenly distributed carbide structure. Regular D2 is a very large carbide steel and won't take a fine edge very easily. Basically, the trouble D2 offers in sharpening is not equally proportionate to it's edge-holding/performance. It's often used for outdoor knives that want to put a toothy edge on for cutting rope and whatnot, where the edge can break down but still continue to tear through material.

Crucible makes a powder-steel version that is more highly refined, but it loses it's characteristic large carbides, which is why people choose it--it's tough and toothy. Not great for a chef's knife, unless your dinner is hiding in a burlap sack tied with nylon rope.

I have have decided that I prefer knives with relative small belly (flat) and with "fake" Wa-Handle like in this gyuto made by Delbert Ealy, but I have still problems what grind to choose.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uYfSihXbFo

Eamon Burke

09-05-2011, 03:31 PM

Ealy-handled construction is coming up big. Very popular. There aren't any "like" the Ealy handle, as it stands, Del is the guy who does them.

Is that to scale? If the heel is 50mm tall, then the tang is too tall. The taper on the handle should be the other way around, thinnest/shortest where it meets the tang and fattest/tallest at the butt. It also generally preferable to have the handle angled upwards slightly to give you better leverage and knuckle clearance. It should still run parallel to the spine, not installed at an angle. To achieve an angle on the handle, have the flat spot near the heel run slightly towards the spine, not run parallel to it.

MichaelD

09-07-2011, 06:41 PM

Thank you for your advice :)

New concept, new designs:

http://www.fotoszok.pl/upload/0f765555.jpg

Marko Tsourkan

09-07-2011, 06:54 PM

Thank you for your advice :)

New concept, new designs:

http://www.fotoszok.pl/upload/0f765555.jpg

I vote for the second from the bottom.

M

ajhuff

09-07-2011, 07:46 PM

I like #6

-AJ

so_sleepy

09-07-2011, 10:19 PM

+1 #6

Andrew H

09-07-2011, 10:20 PM

Really? #6 looks like too much belly for me. I say #5

so_sleepy

09-07-2011, 10:22 PM

Really? #6 looks like too much belly for me. I say #5

#5 looks like a big santoku, I don't like the tip.

SpikeC

09-07-2011, 10:32 PM

+1 #6

Andrew H

09-07-2011, 10:38 PM

#5 looks like a big santoku, I don't like the tip.

Obviously it's entirely subjective but I'd rather go with a little less point for much less belly, just me though.

JohnnyChance

09-08-2011, 12:23 AM

#4 is okay. #6 is better, but the tip is still too high.

MichaelD

09-08-2011, 01:01 AM

I personal favourite is 3, 4 with flatter profile :)

http://www.fotoszok.pl/upload/37383ab8.jpg

Vertigo

09-08-2011, 08:38 PM

Save yourself some cash.

http://iweb.rachaelraystore.com/images/products/enlarge/638280e.jpg

:D

JohnnyChance

09-08-2011, 11:08 PM

That handle design would interfere with my pinch grip and be uncomfortable for me personally. Profile is better, I would still cut off the corner on the spine near the tip, and make the tip much pointier, like a Masamoto/Carter/Marko.

Eamon Burke

09-08-2011, 11:30 PM

I personal favourite is 3, 4 with flatter profile :)

http://www.fotoszok.pl/upload/37383ab8.jpg

That strange handle cutaway looks uncomfortable, though it is visually appealing.