Last night I whipped up a cauliflower cheese recipe with a sauce so rich in flavour and spices you’ll understand why I dubbed it “kick-ass”. It’s got a spicy kick, but the cauliflower is barely cooked and deliciously crunchy. If you don’t like the idea of raw cauliflower — don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it! — you could steam the cauliflower first. But it won’t be nearly as exciting.