Monday, March 23, 2009

Tuscany has a great many appellations, and while the major ones get the lion's share of the attention, the lesser ones can be very nice. The Orcia DOC is named after the Val D'Orcia, a beautiful valley that extends south from Siena towards Monte Amiata, and indeed, if you drive to Montalcino from Siena you will follow it for a while before turning right to head up to the Land Of Brunello.

For that matter, should you be going to Montepulciano/Pienza you'll follow it further before turning left at San Quirico, and should you decide to continue straight, taking the old road from Florence/Siena to Rome (a truly magnificent drive) you'll follow it even further.

It's little wonder, considering that Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is produced to one side of the valley and Brunello di Montalcino to the other, that the Val D'Orcia should be wine country too. However, until fairly recently it was a different sort of wine country, with wines made primarily for local consumption, and quantity being sought much more than quality. This is changing; in 2000 the Orcia DOC Appellation was established, and though its area is large enough that there is considerable pedological and climatic variation from one extremity to the other, producers have accepted it with considerable enthusiasm, and I was pleasantly impressed by the Cantina Viticoltori Senesi Aretini's Orcia DOC, which I tasted a few weeks ago (tasting note here; scroll down).

I was therefore quite interested when Maddalena Mazzeschi contacted me to ask if I'd be interested in tasting through the Orcia DOC Marco Capitoni makes at Podere Sedime, which is not far from Pienza.

He actually makes two different interpretations of Orcia DOC: The disciplinare says, for Rosso Orcia DOC, that the wine must be at least 60% Sangiovese, with the remainder other non-aromatic varietals authorized by the province of Siena, including up to 10% white grapes.

Marco doesn't use them, but says that when planning the blend of his primary wine, he had to keep in mind the fact that before the recent series of very hot summers, Sangiovese didn't always ripen perfectly where he is. Since he and his family live off the land -- in the past they had more grain than they do now, and also livestock -- he didn't feel comfortable putting all his eggs in a slightly iffy basket, and decided to plant some Merlot as well, just to be certain of having at least part of the harvest fully ripe every year. Harvesting is manual, and fermentation and malolactic fermentation are in steel. In keeping with the international character of the blend (80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot), he decided to age his primry wine, which is called Capitoni Orcia DOC, in barriques for a year.

At the same time, he planned a second Orcia DOC wine, Frasi, to be made from the oldest vines of the Podere, with a much more traditional blend -- 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Canaiolo. Harvesting is again by hand, and fermentation is again in steel; the wine then spends two years in large wood casks prior to bottling.

Unfortunately, Nature did not cooperate with his plans; He and Fabrizio Ciufoli, his enologist, made the first vintage of Capitoni Orcia DOC in 2001, using the international blend containing Merlot, and planned to start with the traditional wine in 2002. The rains quashed that idea, and the searing temperatures of 2003 prevented them from making it then. 2004 looked good, until hail wreaked havoc on the vineyards just before harvest time. So they finally were able to make the first vintage of Frasi in 2005; the name (Phrases, in English) derives from Marco's decision to define each vintage with a quote, and this particular vintage is dedicated challenges, and more specifically to a hare: Una lepre a correre sfidai, la raggiunsi… mai! -- A hare to race I did challenge; never did I catch him up!

The wines, tasted on a blustery March day of 2009. We began with Capitoni Orcia DOC

Capitoni Orcia DOC 2001Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with dusky berry fruit laced with cassis and supported by bitter graphite shavings, cedar, and dappled shade. On the palate it's fairly rich, with tart, bitter black cherry fruit that has black currant underpinnings, moderate acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a slight bitter splintery burr, and flow into a clean fresh rather bitter finish that has a black currant underpinning. It's pleasant, and still quite young for a 2001; in a rather aggressive key, and will drink quite well with succulent meats, though I wouldn't necessarily think to drink it by the glass far from the table.2 stars

Capitoni Orcia DOC 2002Deep black almandine with black reflections and some brownish overtones towards the rim. The bouquet is more mature than that of the 2001, as one might expect given the difference in vintages, with some balsamic notes and mentholated brambly accents with underlying polished saddle leather, and some acidity. Nice balance. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry and black currant fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that have some underbrush to them, and flow into a fairly long clean dusky brambly finish with savory accents. It's a nice expression of a difficult vintage, and has held up very well; it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and though it is mature, will also age nicely for a few more years.2 stars

Capitoni Orcia DOC 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Charged. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky red berry fruit laced with cassis and supported by warmth and balsamic acidity with some greenish accents that brings a sunlit afternoon to mind; it's clearly from a hot vintage. On the palate it's rich, and very smooth, with sweet rich black currant laced berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by sweet smooth tannins that have a clean bitter burr, and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish with fruit and mentholated accents. Pleasant, and a nice expression of another difficult vintage; it's nowhere near as jammy nor as cooked as some 2003 wines are, the one thing I did note is that the Merlot is quite evident, perhaps because it weathered the searing summer temperatures better than the Sangiovese.2 stars

Capitoni Orcia DOC 2004This vintage was struck by hail, on September 16, and they therefore had to hurry everything into the cellars. They helped it with a a taglio migliorativo (adding a percentage of a different vintage to the wine) of the 2003. Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with cedar and hints of cumin seed mingled with red berry fruit and spice, with some slightly smoky acidity as well. It opens nicely too, gaining hints of yellow peach with time that does a nice job of complementing the berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with bright, rich black currant-laced cherry fruit supported by moderate bitter acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a cedary underlay, and flow into a clean fruit laced bitter finish with some savory accents. It's pleasant, and has profited nicely from the addition of the older vintage. It will drink very well with succulent, not too fatty red meats.2 stars

Capitoni Orcia DOC 2005Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal accents that have savory overtones, and are mingled with cedar and some stable straw. With more swishing black cherry fruit also merges, with hints of black currants too. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry and black currant fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some cedary overtones, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Quite smooth, and pleasant in an approachable key; it is rather obviously from a cooler wetter vintage, and s such shows that Marco was right to plant the Merlot; just Sangiovese would have been much less ripe, with less fruit too. What we have is instead welcoming, and though the weakest wine of the tasting, will drink nicely with foods.2 stars (barely)

Capitoni Orcia DOC 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated red berry fruit supported by cassis and deft spice. Pleasant, and quite approachable in a fairly international key. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry and black currant fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly fresh fruit laced finish. Pleasant, in a very approachable international key, and will drink nicely with succulent, not too fatty meats, and also with hearty legume based vegetarian dishes. The Merlot does have a positive, and profound influence.2 stars (almost 3)

Capitoni Orcia DOC 2007Just bottled. Deep black cherry ruby. The bouquet is still developing; it's fairly intense, with cedar and red berry fruit supported by some graceful acidity, and by black currant fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by considerable cedar that flows into a rather splintery cedar-laced berry fruit finish. It's still very young, and needs at least a year to come together, but promises nicely. A score at present won't do justice to what it will become.

Taken as a group the Capitoni Orcia is quite approachable in a distinctly international key, with the Merlot contributing considerably to the aromas of the bouquet and to the mouthfeel, smoothing and poloishing the tannins. They are wines that traditionalists will find less interesting than those with more international tastes, but that are pleasant to drink, and will do a fine job of accompanying foods.

Frasi Orcia DOC 2005Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated berry fruit supported by slight cedar and spice; it's pleasant, though the imprint of the vintage is apparent in a duskiness that the fruit has, and also the fruit's displaying relatively less richness -- the botte, which was new, contributes in a more obvious way than it would in a better vintage. On the palate it's bright, with lively red cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr, and flow into a clean fresh sour cherry finish. Quite elegant in a lesser vintage key, and will drink nicely with stews or roasts, and will also work well with grilled meats; fagioli all'uccelletto, tomatoey Tuscan beans with sausages, comes to mind. A nice expression of a difficult vintage that has a story to tell.2 stars

Frasi Orcia DOC 2006Recently bottledDeep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by dusky spice and clean fresh berry fruit acidity. Welcoming and quite fresh. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean fresh berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr and flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the capacity o age well for a number of years. A very nice expression of a good vintage, in a decidedly traditional key, and it offers much to think about and enjoy. One of those wines that., at a tasting, one hates to pour out.88-90

More information? Alas, Marco doesn't have a website yet (though I hope he soon puts one up, also because they're putting a couple of rooms together, and his wife is a fantastic cook). In the meantime, you can check his page on Maddalena Mazzesch's site, and also check the site of the Consorzio Orcia DOC.

Monday, March 16, 2009

I had high hopes for the 2004 Brunello, coming as it did on the heels of the two worst vintages in many, many years. And they were at least partially met, though the vintage isn't the sure-fire proposition that those who rate vintages thought it would be.

Some of the wines are excellent, displaying rich fruit, vibrant tannins and bracing acidity that have much to say now, will be superb with rich dishes, especially succulent meats, and will age well over a period of many years.

Others are also good, albeit in a style that I have more trouble understanding, with richer, much riper fruit and sweeter, softer tannins; a fellow taster said they reminded him of Central Californian reds, and while they will be nice by the glass if you like the style, I don't see them working as well with foods, nor do I think that they will age as well.

And then there are weaker wines, in both of these styles. In other words, the vintage is what Italians call a chiazze di leopardo, like a leopard's spots, i.e. uneven, and therefore requires a that one select the wines with care, keeping in mind both style and quality.

Truth be told, the situation isn't as negative as it sounds, because, as Gianfranco Soldera pointed out in the course of a dinner a few weeks ago, vintages that look perfect on paper (for example 1997 or 1982) rarely reach the heights that were expected of them at the time of the harvest. More difficult vintages (and a number of people did tell me that the 2004 was) require that the winemaker work more in vineyard and cellar, and as a result have facets and qualities the easier vintages simply lack, and develop more fully with time. Casting PC aside, one might consider the difference between a person whose beauty is natural, and one who obtained beauty with the aid of a surgeon -- the natural might not be perfect, and indeed the imperfections contribute, whereas what is surgical may be spectacular, but is ultimately less interesting and with less character.

And now for the elephant in the room.What, you wonder, has become of the scandal that roared through the Brunello appellation last spring, with many wineries being accused of vineyard irregularities of one sort or another (overproduction or illegal varietals)? Nobody was talking about it, and since the accusations have not yet (and may never) become convictions, I didn't see much point in bringing it up. People said it was a sad and messy situation last year, and the opinion will not have changed. But I did notice a significant change in the color of the wines: there was much more garnet than there has been in years past.

What am I talking about? All wines change color as they age. Most reds start with deep purple hues, and Sangiovese, the grape that is used to make Brunello, is no exception. However, after 4-5 years, which is the time Brunello ages for, Sangiovese is usually a pleasing, not too dark almandine garnet, and may have garnet to orange in the rim. And this is what I found in just about every glass of Brunello I tasted this time. Not so in the past, however, when colors ranged from the garnet one expects of Sangiovese to considerably darker hues that did raise doubts.

Something has changed, and while I am certain that some of the suspiciously dark wines of yore got their color from the "taglio migliorativo" provision of the Brunello Disciplinare, which allows producers can add up to 15% of a different (usually younger and darker) vintage to perk up their Brunello if they find it wanting, the across the board nature of the color shift this year suggests that other forces may also have been at work.

It is quite possible that those who in the past bent the rules, adding other things to make their Brunello more appealing to the international markets before bottling it (while some people to blend wines made from several varietals at the outset, many prefer to keep the varietals separate until bottling, because doing so allows them more control over the wine) decided to forego the practice, and I cannot but view this development favorably, as I think that a well-made Sangiovese has no need of crutches. I also think it is sad that it took the concrete threat of criminal investigation to deter the practice, and can only hope that garnet will continue to be as prevalent in future vintages as it was in this one.

Winding down, Tom Hyland recently talked with Mirko Giorgini, who owns an Enoteca in Cerbaia, about Brunello and where it's headed. You can find the post here: http://thylandviews.blogspot.com/2009/03/fixing-brunello.html, and it's main thrust is, if we forget about doctored wines, where is Brunello headed? It's a good question, and Mirko thinks that one should at least worry about what the wines will be like 20 to 30 years from now, because a good Brunello should be like distance runner, and last. I agree, and fear that while many of the wines presented in the course of the Anteprima will pass the test of time, a significant percentage will not, primarily those in the style I have more trouble understanding.

Last thing: there were 146 wineries presenting their Brunello. This is almost everyone who makes Brunello, and is more than i can taste in two days. So I selected, picking some wines because I know the wineries, others because colleagues nodded about them, and still others because the names caught my eye.

And Now the Wines, in (roughly) the order I tasted them, February 20-21 2009

Il PoggioneIl Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by a fair amount of alcoholic warmth, with depth coming from deft slightly greenish bitter accents. Quite young, but also articulate and has quite a bit to say. Interesting things. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful bright tart berry fruit supported by ample tannins that still have a degree of anger to them, and flow into a clean sour cherry fruit finish with lasting warmth. It's very nice, but not really ready yet -- one could drink it if one had to with a thick steak, but it will show much better in 5 years, and even better in 15. Impressive, for the future.2 stars

Il Marroneto Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 2004Black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and deft spice. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean slightly sour cherry fruit supported by sweet tannins that are already quite smooth, and by deft berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean fairly bright tannic finish. It's pleasant in a more delicate key, and will drink nicely with succulent meats from the oven or grill, and also with light stews. It's ready, though time will improve it, and it will age well for a decade or more.2 stars

Col D'Orcia Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and angrily young, with penetrating slightly greenish acidity laced with sour berry fruit and a fair amount of spice; it brings to mind a pretty girl in the midst of a bad hair day. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smoother than I might have expected, but also have a reserved feel to them, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's going to be quite nice, but needs a couple of years to begin getting its bearings, and will improve for many more thereafter.2 stars

BanfiBanfi Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with cherry prune fruit supported by carob, spice and hints of sandalwood greenness with some underlying bitterness. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich fruit supported by clean slightly mineral acidity and by tannins that are sweet, though they still have a slight peppery burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It's pleasant and quite approachable, and ready to drink, though more time will give it greater depth and balance. A nice introduction to Brunello, and a number of fellow tasters who have frowned at Banfi in the past were smiling and nodding.2 stars

Banfi Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent cherry plum fruit supported by quite a bit of bitterness and greenish cedar; it's rather brooding. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit that's supported more by almost dusky sweetness than acidity (though there is enough to keep it from flagging), and by tannins that leave a dusty trail over the tongue and flow into a fairly bitter tannic finish. It needs at least a year to get its bearings, and probably two, at which point it will be fairly elegant in a slightly overripe, softer key. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but if you prefer tighter wines with more acidity it won't work as well for you.2 stars

Pacenti Franco CanalicchioPacenti Franco Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino 2004Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by green leather and hints of sweetness, also a fair amount of cedar. On the palate it's ample, and rather soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean soft tannins that flow into a fairly tart finish. It's quite drinkable, but somehow feels lacking -- I'd have expected more depth and excitement from a Brunello.1 star

Pian Delle Querci Pian Delle Querci Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cut flowers mingled with red berry fruit and some pungent notes, with underlying bitterness. It has a tired fell to it. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with bright cherry fruit supported by moderately intense cherry acidity, and by tannins that are already quite smooth, and flow into a rather languid cherry finish. It's not settled, but spreads out, and I found myself wishing it were tighter and better defined, with more bracing acidity and tannins that had more backbone.1 star

Pian Delle VignePian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2004Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by greenish cedary spice and a fair amount of warmth. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich, fairly sweet cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderately intense cherry acidity that flows into a clean rather bitter cherry finish. It's quite approachable, in a slightly lighter key than I expected, and I found myself wishing that there were more depth and richness of fruit to the wine; I would drink it sooner than later because as it ages it will become quite lacy and perhaps a little too ethereal. It does, in any case, mark a distinct departure with respect to Antinori's previous Pian Delle Vigne vintages, which were darker and more concentrated, and it's a departure I'm quite happy with.2 stars

Siro PacentiSiro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and by some dusky bitter cedar with vanilla that adds depth. Pleasant in a bright zesty key. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by sweet tannins that will be quite smooth in a year or two, though they now display a youthful burr that flows into a clean bright cherry finish. Graceful, and is one of those wines that seems simpler than it is; there's considerable harmony in a rich fruit forward style, and it has quite a bit to say. But do give it at least a year (two would be better) to get its bearings about it, because it needs the time, and will age well for many years thereafter. Worth seeking out if you like the style.88-90

Poggio Antico Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with deft cherry fruit supported by green leather and warm slightly balsamic spice; there's a cheeky tartness to it and it has quite a bit of depth. Interesting. On the palate it's full, with bright rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth -- they're still young -- and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. Quite nice, in a vibrantly young key, and though one could drink it now with a steak or roast, it will richly reward those blessed with the patience to give it 5, or better yet 10 years. Worth seeking out2 stars

Poggio Antico Altero Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit laced with sweetish vanilla and a fair amount of bitter cedar that sends up nose-tingling spice as well. On the palate it's ample, and much softer than the Base, with rich rather sweet cherry fruit supported by moderately intense dusky acidity, and by tannins that are quite smooth, and have been well polished, flowing into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish. It's much softer than the base, and to my mind less interesting because the oak has smoothed out the irregularities and knocked back much of the acidity, though some does emerge in the finish, keeping it alive. If you like the style, which is fairly international, it is very well made and you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style.2 stars

CastelgiocondoCastelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Much lighter than last year's. The bouquet is rich, with cherry fruit that's candied at first swish, though the candy fades, supported by dusky bitterness and some sea salt that gains in intensity. On the palate it's full, and fairly bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by moderately intense clean cherry acidity, and by tannins that are quite young and display a greenish splintery burr as they flow into a clean tannic finish with tart berry fruit acidity. It's pleasant in a fairly direct key, and is very different from previous vintages I have tasted; my impression is that it's much more true to Sangiovese. In terms of accompaniments, it will be nice with grilled meats or roasts.2 stars

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi Tenuta Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leathery greenish cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of spice; the overall impression is brooding. On the palate it's bright, however, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a slightly more languid feel than I'd have liked, flowing into a clean rather bitter finish. It's quite approachable, but needs another year at least for the tannins to fold in, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly middle of the road key, and drink nicely with meats off the grill or out of the oven.2 stars

Tenute Silvio NardiTenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2004Fairly pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, in a more mature key than some, with cherry fruit laced with leaf tobacco, and mingling with some green leather, underlying savory accents, and a fair amount of alcohol; nice balance in a fairly traditional key and quite harmonious. On the palate it's full and rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are sweet and fairly smooth, though they still have a youthful splintery burr, flowing into a clean bright berry fruit finish that gains depth from bitter accents. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and though one could drink it now with a steak or roast, it will improve considerably if left alone for 5-10 years.2 stars

Tenute Silvio Nardi Vigneto Manachiara Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by greenish cedar and deft mineral acidity; it gives an impression of brooding fruit driven power. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry forest berry fruit supported by fairly bright greenish tannins, and by moderate citric acidity that flows into a clean greenish tannic finish with lasting warmth. It's pleasant, though not really deft, and this may be youth at work. It needs a little more time, a year at least, to get its bearings and fall into place, at which point it will work nicely with rich roasts or stews, and has the wherewithal to age nicely for a number of years.2 stars

AltesinoAltesino Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling almost to onion skin. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with cherry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol, with underlying berry fruit acidity and some sea salt. On the palate it's fairly rich, with languid, leathery cherry fruit supported by warm balsamic acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a warm rather balsamic cherry finish. It's distinctly old style (not traditional), and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much; it will drink well with flavorful grilled meats, and has the wherewithal to age nicely for quite some time, becoming lacy in a leathery sort of way. If you prefer more, and fresher (not necessarily sweeter or riper), fruit, it won't work for you.2 stars

Altesino Montosoli Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with alcohol and balsam mingled with some greenish spice, and peppery accents; with more swishing ripe plum cherry fruit also emerges, but it's still working its way to the fore. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by delicate berry fruit acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish. It's quite different from the base, in a richer, riper, softer key, and if you like that wine, which is rather rustic and old style, I'm not sure you will like this. In terms of accompaniments, because of its ample softness it will work well with drier meats, and it's worth considering if you like the style.2 stars

Argiano Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich dusky cherry fruit supported by peppery cedar and hints of sticky dark brown sugar; there's also a fair amount of alcohol, and with swishing some leather emerges. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful fairly sweet cherry forest berry fruit supported by deft acidity that's not sharp but is quite enough to keep the wine on its toes, and by tannins that are smooth, and rather soft -- not tight -- and flow into a moderately intense tannic finish. It's approachable, in a rather big key, but doesn't have as much verve as some of the wines poured, and I found myself rather missing that. This said, it's not bad in a middle of the road key, and will drink nicely with stews or roasts in the short term, though I would give it a few years.2 stars

Tenute Niccolai - Podere BellarinaTenute Niccolai - Podere Bellarina Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by some greenish cedar and something that provides a haunting quality, as well as underbrush deft spice. Nice balance in a middle of the road key. On the palate it's full, with rich fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported moderate acidity, which is sufficient to keep it on its toes, and by tannins that are warm and will be smooth, though they now have a splintery burr, and flow into a plum cherry finish. It's pleasant in a slightly overripe key, if you like the smoother softer nature that comes with this it will drink nicely with roasts or stews.2 stars

Corte Pavone Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections; it's poured ink and much darker than most of the other wines poured. The bouquet is powerful, and smoky, with hardwood ash mingled with pungent bitterness and some sea salt; with more swishing some berry fruit emerges too, though it's masked under the wood. On the palate it's full, and richer than one might have expected, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are well polished, and flow into a clean smooth cherry fruit finish. It's extremely international in style, with the tannins deftly polished by small wood, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you are instead more of a traditional bent it won't work well for you, and I would in any case give it a year or two to allow the nose to develop.2 stars

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Pianrosso Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by greenish cedary accents and some sandalwood, with hints of graphite shavings and alcoholic warmth as well. On the palate it's full, and rather languid, with bright cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are well polished, though they do display a cedary youthful burr, and flow into a clean rather dry finish. It's a little drier than some vintages, but this is in part youth, and as the tannins fold in it will become elegant in a middle of the road key, and contribute nicely to a meal built around succulent meats from the grill or oven. I would also expect it to age nicely for 8-10 years at least.2 stars

Canalicchio di SopraCanalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with considerable greenish cedar mingled with peppery nose tingling spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly generic red berry fruit supported by bitter acidity and by tannins that are quite powerful, and very smooth, and flow into a decidedly tongue-tying cedary tannic finish. It has swallowed a barrel salt, and is struggling with it. With time things may improve.1 star

Citille di SopraCitille di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and decidedly cedar laced with some greenish accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with brighter than expected berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are sweet and fairly smooth, though they still need a year for their youthful burr to fold in, and the nose could also stand a while to develop. A babe, and it's a bit too soon to say much, really, though given the fruit on the palate it may do interesting things. Time will tell.

Donatella Cinelli ColombiniDonatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some pungent accents and spice, with underlying wet leather and alcoholic warmth. It's brooding. On the palate it's full, in a rather soft key, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish with tart underpinning. It's a touch overripe, though not into plum, and as a result the tannins are a touch softer; if you like the style it will drink well with succulent red meats. If oyu prefer a tighter style, it won't work as well for you.2 stars

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Casata Prime Donne Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections; it's darker than many of the wines poured. The bouquet is eye-opening, with cooked cherry fruit that has candied accents, and is supported by peppery spice and a fair amount of cedar, with hints of leather and graphite shavings, and alcoholic warmth. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and very smooth, flowing into a clean plum fruit finish. It's frankly overripe, in a big, soft key, and if you like the style will drink nicely with drier meats. And indeed is a fine expression of the style, but you have to like it; if you prefer tighter better defined wines it won't work for you.2 stars

Villa Poggio Salvi Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively fairly pale almandine with black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish berry fruit supported by vegetal accents and tart acidity that provides nice balance; it gives an impression of being scrappy. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich tart cherry fruit supported by tart berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and fairly aggressive, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's scrappy on the palate too, and needs at least a year to come together -- two would be better -- at which point it will be elegant in a bright fairly traditional fruit and acidity driven key, and work well with succulent meats in the sort term, while also having the potential to age nicely for at least a decade and perhaps more, becoming lacy with time. Worth seeking out if you're of traditional tastes.2 stars

Le ChiuseLe Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and surprisingly young, with floral accents mingled with berry fruit and some spice; it gives an impression of being not quite a work in progress, but still developing. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning flows into a clean tannic berry fruit finish. It needs another year at least to get its bearings, at which point it will drink nicely with red meats. To be honest I'm undecided on it; it has a delicate sweetness to it that's not something I associate with Brunello. Time will tell.

Lambardi Lambardi Brunello di Montalcino 2004Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft greenish berry fruit supported by clean spice from grape and a fair amount of alcohol; it's quite young too. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and by tannins that still display a youthful burr, but promise to smooth quite nicely over the next couple of years. Pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style it will drink very well with grilled or roasted meats, though it will also richly reward those who have the patience to give it time.2 stars

Lisini Lisini Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some delicate spice and hints of fruit. It's still developing. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean slightly sour cherry raspberry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. The nose is behind the palate at present, and it needs at least a year to get its bearings, though two would be better. When it's ready it will do a beautiful job of supporting a steak or roast, and it will also age well for a decade or more, assuming you have the patience. Worth seeking out if you prefer the more traditional style.2 stars

Castello Tricerchi Castello Tricerchi Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish cedar-laced spice and considerable rather dusky alcohol; there's not much fruit. Pungency, however. On the palate it's full, with rather tart greenish berry fruit supported by moderately intense acidity and by deft tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. I'd have liked greater depth and richness to the wine, which has a rather tired feel to it.1 star

Campogiovanni Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep leathery almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with leaf tobacco and underlying green leather mingled with some tart nose tingling balsamic acidity. It has a mature feel, and there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit laced with balsamic acidity warmth, and supported by tannins that are still quite young, and lay a greenish veneer over the tongue. It's quite young on the palate and needs at least another year, if not two, to get its bearings together and figure out where it's going, though it would appear, thanks to the balsamic accents, to be headed in the direction of the nose. You have to like this mature rather rustic style to enjoy it; if you do it will drink quite well with succulent roasts. But you have to like the style.2 stars

BarbiBarbi Brunello di Montalcino 2004Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather staid, with moderate berry fruit supported by quite a bit of dusky, savory sea salt, and by some bitter accents. On the palate its' full and fairly sweet, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by brown sugar accents and some spice, which lead into a tannic finish. It has a tired feel to it, and though I would give it a year or two to get its bearings, I wouldn't keep it for that long.1 star

Barbi Vigna del Fiore Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spicy savory accents and alcoholic warmth supported by green leather and some nose-tingling spice. Not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are dusty and a touch rough, and flow into a rather bitter finish. It doesn't have either the depth nor the elegance that I would hope, and to the contrary is both tired and a bit settled.1 star

Le GodeLe Gode Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with elegant slightly greenish red berry fruit supported by deft nose tingling acidity and cedar-laced spice. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean fresh cherry acidity and by sweet tannins that do have a slight youthful burr that will smooth with time, and flows into a dry savory tannic finish with considerable warmth. It's pleasant in a powerful middle of the road key, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews in the short term (3-5 years), and also has the legs to age well for a number of years, improving and becoming graceful with time..2 stars

Mastrojanni Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with deft balsam laced berry fruit supported by some Moroccan leather and clean warm spice, with underlying dried flowers. Graceful, though a little more mature than one would expect from a newly released wine. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft plum acidity, while added roundness comes from some brown sugar sweetness, while the tannins are ample and fairly soft, flowing into a clean rather warm sweet balsamic finish. It's quite ripe, and more mature than I had expected; if you like big soft wines and have a traditional bent you'll enjoy it, whereas if you prefer brighter, more tightly woven wines you will like it less. It will, in any case, age nicely for a number of years.2 stars

Mastrojanni Vigna Schiena D'Asino Brunello di Montalcino 2004Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine ruby rim; it looks older than it is. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prunes mingling with cedar, some vanilla, and Moroccan leather; the impression is one rather lax maturity, like a 40-something woman who has tanned a lot for many years and has lines on her face. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with fruit that's considerably brighter than I expected -- cherry with tart berry fruit overtones, supported by ample, quite soft, warm tannins that flow into a warm tart berry fruit finish. The palate is much more interesting than the nose, and though it's not a wine I would suggest to those who like smoother softer ripe fruit driven wines in the International Merlot cast, it will work if you prefer more traditional wines that have an aggressive bent to them. It takes no quarter; you will either like it or not, but I found it growing upon me. Worth seeking out if you like the style.2 stars

La GerlaLa Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2004Garnet with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by dried mushroom bitterness and by some rather milky acidity, with a fair amount of alcoholic warmth as well. More richness of fruit would have been nice. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by dusky bitterness, while the tannins are smooth and sweet and flow into a clean plum finish that gains depth from some cola sweetness. It's ample, and a bit overripe, and needs another year at least for the nose to come around, at which point it will be something to think about if you like big, soft, fruit driven wines that boast lively acidity and aren't really into plum. I'd have liked a bit more tightness to the tannins, which are a bit soft, but if you like the style you'll enjoy it.2 stars

La Gerla Vigna Gli Angeli Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum and prune fruit supported by dusty Moroccan leather and some bitter accents that add a dusky feel to it. On the palate it's ample, and frankly sweet, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by prune juice acidity and hints of dark brown sugar, while the tannins are smooth and warm with some greenish splintery accents. To be honest, were someone to set a glass of this in front of me and ask me what it is, I would probably venture a slightly less concentrated than usual Amarone Ammandorlato. It's not what I think of as Brunello, though does display a certain elegance, and will drink nicely by the glass if you like this style of wine.1 star

La FortunaLa Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively black garnet with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is initially muted, but opens some to reveal bright red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and by clean spice from grapes; the effect is graceful, but the door never opens completely -- it's still very young and developing. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and by tannins that are sweet but still have a warm youthful burr, and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish with a bitter tannic underpinning. Graceful, in a rather vibrant key, and I would give it another year at least to get its bearings, and expect it to age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like this rather vibrant, fairly traditional style.2 stars

La MagiaLa Magia Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim tending to almandine. The bouquet is smoky, with red berry fruit supported by a fair amount of green bell pepper, which is a bit unusual in a Brunello, but works nicely here. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are ample and rather flat, and flow into a warm greenish fairly flat finish. The palate is flatter than I might have liked, and also more settled. I'd have liked more life and verve.

Tenuta La Fuga Tenuta la Fuga Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by alcoholic warmth, some peppery spice, and quite a bit of shaved graphite bitterness. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with bright berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly rich, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish that gains depth from bitter berry fruit undertones. It's ample in a fairly soft key, but has sufficient bright acidity to keep it light on its toes, and will drink well with simple stews or light meats. It also has the acidity necessary to age for a few years, though I don't think I would keep it all that long.2 stars

Tenuta Oliveto Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. One of the darker wines poured today. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit that seems fairly sweet, and is supported by nose tingling acidity with some dusky bitter cedar and graphite shaving accents too. On the palate it's ample and quite sweet, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that gains definition from bright berry fruit acidity, and is supported by fairly smooth tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a clean rather dry -- on account of the tannins -- finish. It's unusual for a Brunello, and quite a bit sweeter than most everything else poured in the course of the tasting. If you like this sort of big sweet wine you'll enjoy it, but only if.1 star

Caprili Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by def berry fruit acidity and by a fair amount of warm alcohol as well; it's deft in a young key and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full, with bright ripe cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a tart fairly ripe berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a rich, fruit driven key, and though it does need another year for the tannins to smooth, it will drink nicely with succulent roasts or stews, and has the wherewithal to age nicely for a decade or more.2 stars

Castello RomitorioCastello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol, with moderate acidity as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish that gains depth from graphite shaving bitterness. It's quite young, but promises well, and will become fairly graceful in a rather traditional key. One could drink it now with succulent roasts or stews, but it will benefit from another year or two, and will hold well for a decade at least.2 stars

Gianni Brunelli - Le Chiuse di Sotto Gianni Brunelli - Le Chiuse di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some graphite shaving bitterness laced with alcohol and a fair amount of nose tingling spice. On the palate it's full, and fairly soft, with ample plum cherry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean cherry plum finish that gains life from deft rather bitter forest berry fruit. It's ample, and rather soft, and if you like the style it will drink well with succulent red meats, because it's not terrifically overripe.1 star

La Palazzetta La Palazzetta Brunello di Montalcino 2004Black almandine with black reflections and black reflections leading to an almandine rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with a rush of diesel fuel at first swish, which parts to reveal hardwood ash and some mentholated spice, but not much in the way of fruit. Some plum, but that's about it. On the palate it's ample and soft with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by bright plum acidity that flows into a clean fresh cherry finish, while the tannins are quite smooth, and quite soft, and flow into a clean bright cherry fruit finish. Pleasant in an ample softer ripe but not overripe fruit driven key, and because of the brightness and tartness of the fruit will drink well with more succulent cuts, including rare roast beef or a porterhouse steak, than some soft fruit wines can handle. I wouldn't hold it for too long, but if you like the style it is pleasant.2 stars

Tenuta Le PotazzineTenuta le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino 2004Delicate black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by green leather and some nose tingling spice, with an underpinning of bitter graphite shavings. Pleasant in a traditional key. On the palate it's bright, with clean rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish with bright berry fruit underpinning and lasting warmth. Refreshing and quite pleasant in a traditional key; it will drink very well with roasts or stews, though it will profit from another year at least, and also age well for a decade or more. If you like the traditional style, and even if you're more modern, it's Worth seeking out.88-90

Collemattoni Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim; it's dark for the wines poured this year. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar and some nose tingling spice, and -- concentrating -- some cherry plum fruit. But it's mostly greenish cedar. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and to a greater degree by cedary bitterness associated with the tannins, which are ample, quite smooth, and have cedar overtones that flow into a warm rather green cedar laced finish. A great lot of oak, and frankly for me too much, especially in the finish, which is tongue drying.1 star

FerreroFerrero Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather rustic balsamic key with balsamic notes mingled with scalded milk and a fair amount of nose tingling spice; there's also some wet horse and some underbrush. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity that has slight caramelized accents, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly dry cherry plum finish with some balsamic overtones. It is, as I said, a bit rustic, and you have to like the style to enjoy it. If you do, it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews, but you do have to like the style. If you don't it won't work for you.1 star

San FilippoSan Filippo Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with back reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in an unusual (for a Brunello) way, with bright floral accents mingled with spice and some red berry fruit, with hints of vanilla and sweetness as well. A fellow taster would be muttering about pastries. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by graphite-cedar bitterness and moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into an ample rather soft fruit laced finish. It's got quite a bit of fruit, and this is a good thing, because it's also heavily oaked, and the fruit has managed to stand up to the oak, though the result is a fairly soft wine, and I would have preferred more tightness and better definition. If you like the style it will drink well with succulent, not too fatty roasts or stews, and I would drink it sooner than later, because I fear it will tire with time.1 star

FattoiFattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly pungent red berry fruit supported by tart berry fruit acidity and a fair amount of alcohol, with underbrush and balsam as well as it opens. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm fairly bitter tart finish. It's woefully young, and needs at least a couple of years to get its bearings and become more civil, at which point it will drink well with succulent red meats in the short term, and hold for a decade or more in the long term. Because of its tart aggressiveness you should only consider it if you like the more traditional style. If you do, you will enjoy it.2 stars

Donna OlgaDonna Olga Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. Darker than some. The bouquet is deft, with moderately intense rich cherry fruit supported by spice and floral accents, with some bitter vanilla as well that increases with swishing. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that display a fair degree of polish, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will work quite nicely with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews -- venison comes to mind, and also with flavorful meats in unexpected places, for example ravioli stuffed with venison or pigeon breast. It also has the legs to age well for a decade or more.2 stars

Innocenti Innocenti Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with leaf tobacco and underbrush mingled with spice, and also some mineral acidity. It gives an idea of holding back. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich tart berry fruit supported by tannins that have a degree of leathery bitterness to them, and flow into a rather soft leathery finish with tannins that are green and rather splintery. It needs time to come together and for the tannins to smooth, at least a year, and I wouldn't drink it before then because the splintery greenness of the tannins imparts a rather tired feel to the wine. In a longer term, more than 5 years, it could do interesting things, however, becoming rather lacy. Something to consider if you like more traditional wines and are willing to give them time.1 star

L'AiettaL'Aietta Brunello di Montalcino 2004Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with pungent nose tingling acidity and a fair amount of alcohol with some spice as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and well polished, but lax with slight cedary bitterness, and flow into a clean tart finish. I'd have liked more definition and verve to the tannins, which are rather soft, but found the fruit, which is ripe but not overripe, pleasant; it will drink well with fairly rich, though not overly fatty roasts or grilled meats.1 star

La Serena La Serena Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish slightly balsamic plum-berry fruit supported by vanilla-laced cedar, quite a bit of alcohol, and penetrating spice that reaches up to tingle the nose and (at least for me) eclipses most everything else. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity -- enough to keep it from settling -- and by smooth soft tannins that flow into a warm fairly alcoholic tannic finish. It's big, and rather soft, and lumbers along. If you like bigger softer wines, it will work well with fairly rich stews or roasts, but you have to like the style.1 star

Santa GiuliaSanta Giulia Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep slightly brownish almandine ruby with leathery-black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up Moroccan leather and some tartness, laced with hints of vanilla. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense sour leathery berry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and splintery, and by moderate berry fruit acidity. It's a bit settled, more than one would expect of a young Brunello, and though the tannins will smooth some with time -- they're quite splintery now -- I'm not sure how much substance will be there for them when they have smoothed.1 star

UccellieraUccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. One of the darker wines poured this year. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of nose tingling spice coupled with alcohol; there's not much fruit, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and slight cedar. It comes across as a work in progress that still needs fleshing out. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight butter cast, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with bitter tannic underpinning. Though the nose is somewhere else, on the palate it's pleasant in a powerful rather lusty key, and if the nose follows the palate it will be a nice wine to break out with hearty meats from the oven or grill, and also with rich stews. Bottom line: Give it a couple of years to come together, and expect it to age well for 10-15.2 stars

La FioritaLa Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with rich red berry fruit with some prune accents supported by languid Moroccan leather and considerable warmth; nice balance and harmonious, though still very young. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich warm cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that reveal a youthful cedary burr, and flow into a fairly long cedar-backed berry fruit finish that gains depth from savory accents. It's a toddler striking out on its first steps, but promises quite nicely, and will be worth waiting for; I'd give it a couple of years at least, and expect it to age well for 10-15 years. In terms of accompaniments, a thick porterhouse steak would be very nice, though one could make do with a hearty stew. Worth seeking out.2 stras

La TogataLa Togata Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich cherry and plum fruit supported by slightly balsamic acidity and by clean cedar laced spice. Nice balance, and harmonious with quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with deft plum cherry fruit supported by clean bright plum acidity -- not prune; it's not overripe -- and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with tart tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant in a rather opulent fruit driven key, and if you like the style it will drink quite well even now with a hearty roast or stew, while it also has the legs to age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like the style, and even if you're more traditional you'll find things to think about.2 stars

Vasco Sassetti Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky Moroccan leather supported by some hints of brown sugar and some cedar, while direction comes from moderate mineral acidity, while there are some hints of tamarind too. But not much. On the palate it's ample and smooth with moderate rather leathery red berry - prune fruit supported by moderate warm, slightly balsamic acidity, and by tannins that are full and still have a young greenish burr that flows into a clean warm balsamic finish with splintery tannic underpinning. It's very, very young, and the tannins need another couple of years to get out of their diapers, at which point it will be fairly traditional in style. I found it a little more tired than I might have liked, and fear that it could settle with time.1 star

Piombaia Piombaia Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is eye-openingly charged with candied blackberries; it's like sniffing a bubbling jam pot with the warmth and hints of hot metal that swirl amidst the fruit. On the palate it's full, and tarter than I had expected, with bright fairly sweet cherry fruit that does have some plum accents, and I supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly deft, and flow into a rather tart, greenish finish. The nose and body are going in different directions, though they're on the same rather opulent fruit forward plane, and to be frank I found the wine a bit odd, and as the nose opens the metallic accents increase.

Brunelli Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusty Moroccan leather mingled with some leathery acidity and nose tingling spice; it's fairly harmonious, though there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, in a fairly lax key, with warm cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a decidedly tannic finish. It's a bit settled, and I found myself wishing that the tannins had more verve than they do; the grapes seem to have surrendered the tannic task to wood, which does a much better job in a supporting than a primary role.1 star

Cantina di Montalcino Cantina di Montalcino Brunello di Montalcino 2004Fairly deep leathery black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sweetish plum prune fruit supported by warm balsamic acidity and underlying spice, with hints of dried orange peel and some underbrush. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderately intense savory plum cherry fruit that is supported by fairly mineral acidity, and by smooth tannins that are well polished, and flow into a fairly tart berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. While it's not settled, it doesn't have much verve either, and I found myself wishing both the fruit and the structure were tighter and brighter.1 star

CapannaCapanna Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky hardwood ash mingled with mentholated accents and some spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich tart berry fruit supported by warm slightly balsamic acidity, and by tannins that have a green cedar overlay, and flow into a greenish tannic finish with some savory accents and hints of hazelnut skins and sweetness from alcohol. It's quite young, and frankly disjointed, with the tannins, which are distinctly cedary, doing a very good job of dominating the fruit, and though they will fold in within a year or two, I doubt they will ever surrender as completely as I would like.1 star

Sesta Di SopraSesta di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim fading to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a brooding greenish cast supported by a fair amount of spice and alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly full, with tart cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are bright and flow into a fairly long slightly tart berry fruit finish with greenish cedar overlay. It's delicate, in a rather light (for a Brunello) lacy traditional key, and needs another year or two to come together, especially with regards to the nose, and has sufficient acidity to age well for many years more. In short, a work in progress, and if you like the fairly tart traditional style it's something to think about. But do give it time.2 stars

Podere CanapacciaPodere Canapaccia Brunello di Montalcino 2004Dusky black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish cedar mingled with green leather and a fair amount of alcohol, while there's also some raw beef with further swishing. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by moderate, fairly sweet prune acidity that has some brown sugar overtones, and by tannins that are ample and rather green, with cedary accents and flow into a dry rather green bitter tannic finish. Though it is very young, and the tannins will round with time, the fruit is not quite as rich as I would have liked, and I fear that it will settle quickly.1 star

La CampanaLa Campana Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is brooding, with rather dusky berry and stone fruit -- yellow peaches, to be exact -- supported by warmth and a fair amount of alcohol, with nose tingling spice and greenish cedar as well. On the palate it's bright, with deft berry fruit supported by clean slightly sour cherry acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a dusky slightly greenish berry fruit finish. It's very young, but promises nicely in a middle of the road key; I would give it another year at least for the nose to develop and the tannins to smooth some, and expect it to age well for a decade or more, becoming rather lacy with time. It's a team player, and will do a fine job of accompanying rich foods along the lines of a succulent roast leg of lamb or a venison stew without trying to hog center stage.2 stars

Caparzo Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2004Dusky almandine with some cherry reflections, and cherry rim. The bouquet is not quite musty, but rich in hardwood ash with some underlying bitterness and Moroccan leather acidity, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly soft cherry fruit supported by sweetish berry fruit acidity, and by moderately intense tannins that display a slight burr, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's more interesting on the palate than the nose, in a rather gentle (for a Brunello), direct key, and is one of those wines that will do a better job of supporting foods (roasts, grilled meats, light stews) than demanding center stage. Whether this is what one wants of a Brunello or not is another question; I would in any case give it a year for the nose to come in line with the palate, and expect it to age well for about 10 years.1 star

Caparzo Vigna La Casa Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish leather mingled with some cedar and sweetish spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet acidity, and by smooth well polished tannins that flow into a clean plum laced finish. It's ample and rather soft, and to be honest I would have expected more depth of fruit than there is; while it is perfectly capable of working with drier meats, there's not the excitement that I hope for in a Brunello.

PalazzoPalazzo Brunello di Montalcino 2004Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather rustic key, with balsamic acidity supported by green leather, warmth, and quite a bit of alcohol; it also comes across as quite young. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by sweet plum laced acidity, and by tannins that lay a warm peppery burr over the tongue and flow into a fairly sweet, fairly soft finish with a splintery tannic underpinning and some greenish accents. If you like the style, it will drink well with drier meats, but you have to like the style, and I'm not sure how long it will age for.1 star

Agostina Pieri Agostina Pieri Brunello di Montalcino 2004Fairly dark almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright, with rich, ripe, slightly greenish cherry and forest berry fruit that has a rather haunting cast to it, and is supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and some green leather as well. Nice balance, and pleasant to sniff in a decidedly brash, powerful key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean bright cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh cherry laced finish. Graceful, and quite approachable in a ripe, well defined fruit driven key, and will drink quite nicely with succulent grilled meats or hearty roasts in the short term (a year from now), though if I had more than a couple of bottles I would be tempted to set most of them aside, because I think it will do interesting things with time. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Talenti Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2004Leathery brownish almandine with black reflections and onion skin nail; it looks older than it is. The bouquet is fairly ripe, and sweetish too, with moderate plum berry fruit supported by some dried flowers, with hints of Moroccan leather and sweetness as well, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and soft, wit moderately intense plum fruit that gains direction from bright plum acidity, and is supported by deft fairly smooth tannins that flow into a fairly bright plum finish that gains direction and depth from a decidedly bitter underpinning. It's ample and rather soft in an overripe key, and if you like the style it will drink nicely with drier meats; I would drink it sooner than later, because I don't know how long it will age for.2 stars

Villa I Cipressi Villa I Cipressi Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Darker than many of the wines poured. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent greenish milky acidity that rises up to tickle the nose, and, with more swishing, savory berry fruit that has some jammy overtones. A bit disjointed. On the palate it's ample and very soft, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by warmth and big sweet tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish with less fruit than one might have expected; what remains is more acidity, sweetness that is also alcohol, and dry splintery tannins with savory notes that continue at length. Though its basic character is set, the nose is still up in the air, and I would give it another year to get its bearings. It will drink well with succulent, not too fatty meats, and is a good bet if you like wines that are bright, but not too tightly woven from a tannic standpoint.1 star

Terre Nere di Campigli - ValloneTerre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight; swishing brings up some spice, and hints of berry fruit, but it very much gives the impression of wanting to be left alone. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth soft tannins that have slight leathery accents, and flow into a delicate, fairly bright cherry finish with cedar-laced tannic underpinning. It's quite young, and needs at least a year to get its bearings and for the tannins to reabsorb the burr, at which point it will drink nicely with succulent roasts or hearty stews. Something to think about if you like ample, softer wines whose fruit register is more cherry and forest berry fruit than plum.2 stars

Renieri Renieri Brunello di Montalcino 2004Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a slightly greenish pungent key, while swishing brings up some menthol and a fair amount of cedar. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with much of the fullness coming from tannic structure, while there's not much fruit, nor much acidity to provide it direction, while it flows into a bitter tannic finish. The effect is rather like a small person trying to occupy a huge space, and getting lost in it.

Abbadia ArdengaAbbadia Ardenga Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with rich slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and some clean spice. Bracing, and displaying a pleasing youthful openness, like a smiling well muscled teen. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a slight bitter cedar overlay, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with deft tannic underpinning. It's still very young, but pleasant in a full, rich key, and one could drink it now with succulent roasts or stews. However, it will richly reward those blessed with the patience to give it a few years, and be very nice in a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like the style.2 stars

Abbadia Ardenga Brunello di Monte Vigna Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's one of the darker wines poured. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe plum cherry fruit supported by cool bitterness that brings dusk to mind, and by some wet green leather, while there isn't much acidity. Rich in a very ripe key. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with prune fruit supported by smooth sweet prune acidity, and by soft smooth tannins that flow into a deft prune finish with some prune acidity to keep it on its toes. This is, to my way of thinking, atypical for a Brunello -- were someone to give it to me blind and ask I'm not sure what I might guess, perhaps a light version of an Amarone ammandorlato from the Valpolicella. This said, id does display a fair degree of grace, and if you like the style will sip nicely by the glass far from the table, though I'm not sure how long I would hold it for.2 stars (barely)

La LecciaiaLa Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino 2004Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though energetic swishing does bring up some delicate berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and some green leather. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by moderately intense red berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with pleasant tannic underpinning. It's quite elegant in a rather delicate, graceful key, and will drink quite nicely with succulent red meats from the grill or the oven, though it needs another year for the bouquet to develop. Expect it to age nicely for a decade or more, becoming quite lacy with time. Worth seeking out.2 stars

La Lecciaia Il Baccanale Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit that gains depth from some blackberry jam accents, and is supported by clean spice and deft slightly citric acidity. A lot going on. On the palate it's full, and rich, with elegant slightly sour cherry fruit that gains direction from bright berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long, clean fresh berry fruit finish with bright citric support and a smooth tannic underpinning. Quite graceful in a fairly traditional key, and also quite young; one could drink it now if one had to with a well marbled steak and be quite happy, but those blessed with the patience to give it a couple of years will be very happy, and those who can wait longer, up to 10 or more, even happier. It's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting, and is well worth seeking out; even if you prefer more the more modern style you'll find things to enjoy.88-90

Mocali Mocali Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich prune fruit supported by some dark brown sugar sweetness and a fair amount of leather, some Moroccan and some green, and underlying spice. It gives an impression of softness. Which is confirmed on the palate; it's ample, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by prune juice acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright tannic finish with some prune juice acidity. It's quite overripe, and though I'm not sure how long it will age, if you like this big soft style, it will drink well by the glass or with drier meats in the shorter term. If you're of a more traditional bent it won't work for you.1 star

Capanne Ricci Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with leathery black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up hints of sandalwood and some greenish spice. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright greenish plum cherry fruit supported by prune juice acidity and by tannins that have a decidedly bitter cast, and flow into a fairly quick bitter finish. I'd have liked greater richness and depth from the wine, which is in a funny way neither here nor there; it doesn't have the zesty brightness of one camp of Brunello, nor is it as rich as some of the more extracted, ripe camp.1 star

Fuligni Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2004Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a great rush of initial cedar that overlays some red berry fruit and spice, though what's carrying the show at present is primarily wood; with more swishing vanilla laced sweetness also emerges. A study in oak. On the palate it's full, and bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh cherry and forest berry fruit finish with lasting warmth and deft acidity to keep it up. So what's the story? Youth; the palate is further along and shows the direction (I hope) that the nose will take as it develops. I'd give the wine at least a year and perhaps two, because the palate shows considerable potential, and if you like wines that are middle of the road in style it should get there. But not for a couple of years, at least.2 stars

Fanti Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some greenish cedar mingled with almost smoky spice, and, with more swishing, with some fairly rich, sweet jammy berry fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with rich cherry prune fruit supported by sweet prune juice acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bright, fairly sweet berry prune finish. It's not what I expect from a Brunello, but if you like big, soft, rather sweet overripe wines it will drink nicely by the glass, or with drier meats. I would drink it sooner than later, because I'm not sure how long it will age for.1 star

Ferro Ferro Brunello di Montalcino 2004Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a decidedly vegetal cast, with underlying green leather and some cedar. Not much fruit, at least not yet, while there is a fair amount of vinous warmth. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with bright cherry fruit supported by prune juice acidity and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long prune-laced berry fruit finish. It's big, and quite soft, and if you like the style will drink well with drier meats or by the glass; I'm not sure how long it will hold, and would therefore drink it sooner than later. You do have to like the style, but if you do you will enjoy it, as it displays a certain grace.2 stars

Castiglion del Bosco Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft cherry and forest berry fruit supported by slightly greenish leather and by clean cedar, with underlying spice. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with jammy cherry prune fruit supported by dusky mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh tannic finish. It's ample, and decidedly overripe, in a soft fruit driven key, and will drink well by the glass or with drier meats if you like the style. If you don't, it won't work as well for you.1 star

Tiezzi Tiezzi Brunello di Montalcino 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to brownish white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate red berry fruit and dried flowers mingling with some polished leather and hints of cedar from grape more than wood. Deft, and it has a fair amount to say. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that will be quite smooth, though they now display a splintery youthful burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish that's rather long. Graceful, in a more delicate (for a Brunello) key, and will drink quite nicely with succulent, not too fatty roasts or stews in a year's time, and also with richer pasta dishes, for example ravioli stuffed with pigeon or venison and served with a sauce including juniper berries. It needs another year to get its bearings (two would be better) and I would expect it to age well for at least a decade, becoming lacy with time. If you like the traditional style you will enjoy it very much, and even if you're of a more modern bent you will find things to think about and enjoy. Worth seeking out.88-90

Friday, March 06, 2009

Tenuta dell' Ornellaia has recently decided to begin a program to support the arts. Not simply by buying pieces, but rather selecting a word or phrase to describe the vintage of Ornellaia slated for release and then commissioning an artist to do a work featuring the descriptor as its theme.

This year's descriptor is "Exuberance."

It was chosen, says enologist Axel Heinz, because the 2006 vintage was extremely unusual, with a great many quirks that, taken individually, could easily have spelled disaster. But instead they balanced each other out, and in the end produced a wine of considerable grace and harmony coupled with unusual structure and power, a power that, Axel says, is more reminiscent of Masseto (Ornellaia's single-vineyard Merlot) than the Ornellaia of a more normal vintage.

And the quirks?To begin with, it didn't rain a drop during the entire summer. Periods of drought can lead to vineyard stress that can in turn cause problems with ripening -- either overripening or interruptions in ripening -- but this more commonly happens when the summer suddenly becomes dry. In 2006 it was dry from the outset, and as a result the vines adapted, producing a less luxurious leaf canopy than usual, and also smaller bunches of grapes. Not fewer, but smaller, and in practice this means that the vines spontaneously reduced yields.

Dry weather and high heat, as I said, can lead to problems. But in 2006 that's not what happened -- it was dry, but not searing, and therefore ripening was fairly normal, though a bit behind schedule due to the drought. No overripeness, but rather ripe fruit, coupled with high sugar concentrations thanks to the small size of the bunches, and marked acidities due to the relatively cool summer.

Going into the harvest, Axel says, the grapes were ripe, but not exceptional. And still it didn't rain. Rather, hot dry temperatures further concentrated the grapes. However, on September 16, when they were half-way though picking the Merlot, the heavens opened, dumping 20 cm of rain (about 8 inches) in one fell swoop. Now, rain during the harvest usually ruins everything, and had these 8 inches come over a period of several days the grapes would have swelled up and that would have been that. But since it came all at once, the ground absorbed what it could and the rest ran off. The injection of moisture proved a Godsend, because it revitalized the vines, especially the Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, which ripened quickly, forcing them to hurry everything into the cellar; Axel recalls that they finished before Sassicaia, and adds that Mario Incisa Della Rocchetta muttered when he found out.

Nor were the problems over when the grapes reached the cellar: the grapes were concentrated enough that it was difficult to determine how much sugar they contained (the sugar is bound into the pulp too), and the relative lack of moisture in the musts made temperature regulation much more difficult, because hot spots tended to develop. The fermentations were very long, an in some cases continuing after the wine had been racked out of the tanks and into barriques. "This is normally something we don't want," Axel said, "but the 06 had a mind of its own and did what it wanted to." He admits to having had doubts about the quality of the wine at the time, and did not expect it to develop the elegant balance it now displays.

Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2006, Tasted March 6 2009Elegant impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry rim -- poured ink, almost. Rich nose with beautifully balanced red berry and black currant fruit with rich, sweet blackberry notes supported by spice, graphite shavings, slight jammy notes, and peppery spice. A delight to sniff, in a very, very young key, and it develops very well in the glass, revealing new facets with time, including very ripe pesca cotogna (a decadent late-ripening peach, one of the finest stone fruits there is), hints of balsam, greenish warmth, cedar, and green walnut. It will be very interesting to see how it develops over the next few years. On the palate it's rich, with powerful slightly bitter cherry and black currant fruit laced with blackberry sweetness and supported by deft tannins that have a sweet core, and a youthful pencil shaving-bitter burr, and flow into a clean, very long slightly bitter berry fruit finish that gains depth from hints of sea salt. Tremendous depth and elegance, and very, very young: It's like a toddler born of two perfect parents -- a little unsteady on its feet, but definitely going places, and one can already guess that it will scale to considerable heights.

If you must drink it before 2010 -- decant it -- it will need food, and I think could approach perfection with a Porterhouse steak cooked rare, or rare roast beef sliced fairly thick. But it will richly reward those blessed with the patience and fortitude to give it time; I would expect it to begin to hit its stride in about 2014, and age nicely for a decade thereafter.

Attn: Wine Retailers

Links

IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.