Dodge Dakota - FAQs

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I've either been very busy, trying to survive another personal upheaval, or suffering from a bad case of RoadRunner internet service.

I only have experience with the factory supplied Champions and the Bosch Platinum Plus 4s. I changed the factory plugs out at 10,000 miles because of an intermittent lumpy idle and very slight and only occasional cold weather hestitation.

I just replaced the Boschs at 50,000 miles. They looked very good and I'm sure they would go another 50K. When I went from the Champions to the Platinum+4s I did not feel any difference in the way the engine ran, except the lumpy idle and occasional cold weather stumble seemed to disappear. There was no change in fuel consumption and I do not believe any change in overall performance.

When I changed-out the +4s for another set, I did realize about a 1.7 MPG increase in fuel mileage and I felt some increased responsiveness in the low end. I must also say that I replaced the air filter and PCV valve, as well as cleaned the throttle body and air port. At this moment I am not inclined to believe that the Bosch plugs offer a lot more than the Champion Copper Plus that came with my 4.7. In all fairness, I should try another set of the Champions before I can conclusively be convinced, but I have worked on a few Dak 4.7s with 50-60K on the factory plugs and they seemed to be running fine, albeit they ran better after a plug change. Maybe after 40K on Champion Copper Pluses Id being saying the same thing. I don't know.

One thing I can say for sure is that for most drivers with the 4.7 the Champions are probably a pretty good spark plug and you won't go wrong if you continue to use it. You should go longer with platinum, however.

Good comments on 4.7 spark plug maintenance. At 50K everything looked almost like new on my 4.7. The O-rings are still pliable and appear to be sealing well.

The one curse is the cooling line clamps that secure the metal heater lines that run in front of the throttlebody. I broke one the last time and broke another this time. The right side clamp is 05015518AA, by the way.

I also broke the end of the PCV valve off trying to remove the vacuum line. Fortunately I had a new valve (53032800AA) in hand. Be sure to remove the inlet duct from the air box before attempting to remove the PCV valve. The valve does not simply pull out, but twists out by camming action, and to properly access the PCV valve requires good access. Looking at the PCV valve head on from the right side of the vehicle, the PCV valve must be rotated downwards (counterclockwise) and may then be withdrawn.

hey ppls i have a standard 2000 4.7 dakota and i was wondering if any of you have run one stock in a 1/4 mile. i was wondering what they run. and i've seen the new dakota r/t's from the 2006 line. why are they using an inferior engine to the 5.9?

Petroleum-based Dexron-Mercon automatic transmission fluid (ATF) was originally designed for General Motor&#146;s automatic transmissions and has been in existence since the early 1950s. In "normal" service Dexron-Mercon will provide an approximate 100,000 miles service limit when operated in a steady 175 degree F environment.

Dexron-Mercon ATF, like all other types, are easily deteriorated from heat, friction, moisture, and other contaminates that cause oxidation. As oxidation advances, clutch and other component operation are adversely affected, and likewise as component and clutch operation degrade, ATF deterioration advances. This causes a rapid, non-linear effect in overall fluid deterioration and subsequent lack of fluid performance.

The approximate life expectancy of petroleum-based Dexron-Mercon ATF types are shown in the following commonly distributed chart. Keep in mind that the chart only considers temperature variation. Contamination from moisture or other materials will advance the fluid&#146;s deterioration and expiration:

NOTE: The above chart has not been verified for accuracy, however is included here to illustrate the relationship of operating temperature to ATF longevity.

A little known fact is that Chrysler Corporation has for some time had its own proprietary ATF, eventually known as ATF+ (ATF "plus"), and since the mid-1950s this fluid was designated "fill-for-life." This meant that under "normal" driving conditions the transmission fluid was serviceable for the life of the vehicle and did not require routine service. "Normal" driving conditions were defined as a vehicle that was NOT used for police, taxi, or other commercial operation, towing or exceeding the vehicle load specifications, not operated in dusty conditions, at high speeds in greater than 90 F ambient temperatures, excessive idling, or above average short trip or stop-and-go driving (city). In addition, Chrysler stipulated that if any amount of Dexron-Mercon was added to the original factory fill, the fluid and filter required replacement every 25,000 miles.

Chrysler permitted use of Dexron-Mercon in their older series of transmissions (A-904, A-727) for many years but strictly for the purposes of maintenance or over haul. Since its inception, Chrysler has improved on the original ATF+ with ATF+2 (7176D), ATF+3 (type 7176E), and the current ATF+4 fluids and now recommends the use of ATF+4 (type 9602) and prohibits the use of Dexron-Mercon, with a few exceptions. Jeep vehicles using the Aisin-Warner transmissions (AW-3, AW-4) must use Dexron-Mercon. In addition, all 1999 and older mini-vans should continue to use ATF+3 to prevent torque converter shudder. For all other Chrysler-built cars and trucks, any transmission originally supplied with ATF+, ATF+2, or ATF+3, should use type 9602, ATF+4. Chrysler states that ATF+4 may be used when adding fluid to all vehicles originally supplied with ATF+3. Some earlier Chrysler vehicle owner&#146;s manuals stated that Dexron-Mercon could be used, and some dipsticks are marked "Use Dexron-Mercon." This is an error, however. Dexron-Mercon should not be used in ANY Chrysler-built vehicle.

USE

Despite the myth perpetrated by many, Dexron-Mercon is not a universal transmission fluid. And just like the prohibition against its use in Honda, Nissan, Toyota, and some Ford products, Dexron-Mercon should not be used in ANY Chrysler-built motor vehicle. In addition, all packaged ATFs of whatever type are not necessarily the same. If you look closely at the various manufacturers of Dexron or Mercon, for example, you will note there are significant variations in the fluid specifications. There is even disagreement in the industry of whether Mercon V is compatible with older transmissions specifying the use of Dexron IIE or III. The same situation holds true for non-OEM manufacturers of ATF+3.

Chrysler&#146;s prohibition against the use of any fluid other than the appropriate ATF+ is not arbitrary. ATF+3 & 4 are highly modified fluids. ATF+ 3 and 4 contain a unique and patented friction modifier formula that is integral to the transmission design and is required to maintain the original shift quality, and ultimately the design life of the transmission. This makes the shift and clutch engagement quality of Chrysler transmissions extremely sensitive to ATF characteristics. Despite claims otherwise by transmission repair centers or competitive lubricant manufacturers, Dexron-Mercon altered with generic friction modifiers are NOT equivalent with the design specifications of ATF+ series fluids.

ATF+3

ATF+3 is an advanced fluid that replaced factory fill ATF+2. It is specifically formulated to Chrysler automatic transmission designs and is necessary to maintain factory shift quality and overall transmission performance. Although a Chrysler proprietary formulation, ATF+3 has been licensed by Chrysler for manufacture by competing, non-OEM suppliers. Although always a better choice than using somebody else&#146;s fluid, aftermarket ATF+3 formulations are not necessarily the same as the original factory fluid and either shift quality or long term transmission performance and reliability may be adversely affected.

ATF+4 is a superior fluid that contributes to increased transmission performance and reliability. Developed by the Lubrizol Corporation and currently manufactured by Havoline, Chrysler Type 9602 or ATF+4 is a specially formulated fully synthetic automatic transmission fluid that incorporates a very high viscosity index (VHVI) base stock and contains a unique and exclusive high-strength additive package. This transmission fluid is engineered to be a "fill-for-life" fluid under normal driving conditions with a minimum practical end life of 150,000 miles. Designed exclusively for DaimlerChrysler automatic transmissions, it is also recommended for certain manual transmissions and all 1999 and newer Chrysler power steering systems. ATF+4 is fully compatible with all transmission applications where Type 7176 fluids (ATF+, ATF+2, or ATF+3) have previously been specified.

Through the use of its patented additive package ATF+4 will maintain the original shift quality of all Chrysler designed automatic transmissions. It contains superior properties for low temperature operation to -55 degrees F, and maintains a high viscosity index above 350 F. ATF+4 produces superior wear and rust prevention qualities especially when compared to Dexron-Mercon or aftermarket synthetic fluids. ATF+4 controls oxidation to a much higher degree than Dexron-Mercon series fluids and represents a notable improvement over ATF+3.

ATF+4 reduces the effects of moisture and will practically eliminate the formation of deposits in otherwise healthy transmissions. Its exclusive friction modifier composition also controls friction and maintains the minimum surface loss of transmission clutches. ATF+4 contains the maximum anti-foaming characteristics of any currently marketed ATF.

ATF+ series automatic transmission fluids must be operated in an ATF+ pure operating environment and are highly susceptible to chemical destabilization from non-ATF+ automatic transmission fluids. With the exception of 1999 and older mini-vans, automatic transmissions designed and manufactured by Chrysler Corporation or DaimlerChrysler using ATF+3 may use ATF+4, either as a supplement or full replenishment. Transmissions originally equiped with ATF+4, however, should never have anything other than ATF+4 added to the system

2001 quad , 4.7l, 3.92 lsd, 5sp. Question..mentioning PCV valve. 2 dealerships, 1 purolator catalog, 1 fram catalog, 1 pep boys store, 1 thuls store, 1 auto store: All do not see/mention PCV valve listed, nor have a part # that I see or was given to me. Where is this valve, as I have had many funny looks and parts people look at my truck to say NONE exists. What does exist I am told is an air valve, 1 at each rear of the valve covers which there is a piped connection which connects both to a tee(Some call pcv?) which is connected to my airbox by about 6 inches of ~ 1/2 id hose.. Greenbrook dodge, NJ wanted to sell me a pcv valve, and I asked "where does it go" and they could not tell me, or walk 50 ft outside to show me as their airbox picture did not show both my air intake to throttle body and small hose attached..SO I am confused..maybe I need to attach pics for someone to explain to me..Confused..or is there an actual PCV on some 4.7L and not mine? Ger :surprise:

The PCV VALVE is on the side of the oil-fill snout. To remove it, pull the hose off of it then twist 1/4-turn and pull straight out. There is o-ring that makes the seal.

If you open the oil-fill snout and pull out the baffle insert, you can see the hole on the side where the PCV valve sucks the fumes out of the crankcase. With engine idling, you can put your finger over that hole and should feel suction.

Do not forget that the DC (Damler Chrysler)4.7L V8 is the same engine as the 3.7L V6 (just 2 cylinders lopped off) Many parts (including PCV valve) should be interchangable.

Bruce, Got the location, thanks!! Was a bit confused as the dealer wanted to sell me p/n #53032800AA originally, which I think i read at post 186 and they could not tell me the location. They told me that p/n is for 2002 per their book, who knows.. My 2001 p/n # is 53031777AA, sold for $10.25 +tax. Like Dusty had wrote, I also pulled the air box out. I then slid back the hose, and twisted the pcv valve counterclockwise till the hose connection pointed downwards, 1/4 twist, and it then released, pulling outwards... Thanks ! Posted a few pics for others that may not find the valve either..Either my finger or screwdriver is pointing at the valve/location. http://www.millervision.com/pcv

There is no chip programmer avail as of yet..superchips says end of summer..Read middle of winter maybe.?? and I have heard from many that the "jet" modules are not worth the $$.

Anyway...I would like to know why a 180 Tstat is not available for this motor.? Could it have anything to do with proper sensor readings being distorted by the lower engine temp..?? My thinking was that using a TStat @ 180 as opposed to OEM 195 would be simply easier/better on the motor whilst towing (less heat - less energy loss)

As well I have read that diff oil SB synthetic..?? really.?Any other recommendations re: Towing would be appreciated.

Also have read here not to tow in OD. Why.? Given a good reason, I gather that one should use the Tow/Haul button at all times when towing.?

You did not say - but I assume from your comments that you have AUTOMATIC xmission. Given that, do not use OD when towing, the xmission can overwork/overheat by constantly going in and out of OD.

You also did not mention which final gear ratio you have. This may affect towing performance.

Another key element you did not mention was if you have the factory-installed towing package or not. Some of the items included in the factory package are not readally apparent. (like the additon of power-steering cooler.)

If you are not ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN about your gear oils being synthetic... change them all to the approprate RedLine lubes. (Yes - RedLine is expensive... this is because it is 100% high-grade synthetic base stock...beyond even Mobil1!!)

Not only is RedLine perhaps the best lubricant available, I realized 2-4 MPG better just by changing from dyno-oil to RedLine. (xfer case, front/rear diff and Manual xmission) As a bonus, RedLine saved my rear diff when all the lube leaked out of a failed seal due to its ability to lubricate under those conditions.

The factory towing package is supposed to include synthetic lube in the rear diff. Folks that have added a hitch WITHOUT putting in synthetic have fried their rear diff. Some folks WITH the factory towing package have fried rear diff. because factory put in dyno-lube. It is better to put in RedLine to make CERTAIN.

As for the thermostat, the cooling system on the 4.7L semi-hemi V8 is a "bypass" type system. (thermostat is mounted low on engine and actually MIXES hot/cold to ensure engine is correct temp.) I would not mess with what is in there.

I do have automatic trans, had the rear diff changed with a synthetic 75W-90 (GL-5 rated),& with the Mopar additive and just did an oil change albeit with Mobile 1 synthetic oil. I have had the transmission serviced as well...all in the past 30 days. I think I am gonna leave that alone for now.

I do have a class III Reese receiver, Tranny cooler & all the electrics reqd for trailer. I do not believe that this unit has a power steering cooler..never heard about one of them.? Like to know what/why/how etc one requires that particular hardware. splain please..? (-%

Interesting on the Red-Line Lube. & On that note, I saw on the web site (thanks for the link) that it looks like good product. When I go to change fluids/gear oils, I will give it a try.

Understand re-TStat. I shall leave it alone..explanation clear and succinct. I believe that the Gear ratio is 3.55 for no other reason than I did not specify the higher ratio when the unit was bought.

I have no issue with spending coin on preventative maintenance/permium products...the alternative is just not worth the savings or the time wasted. ( I used to wear $ 35 dollar shoes..they wear out and are not comfortable. Now it's Clarks or Ecco's. Pricey they are but they last damned near forever and by God your feet feel comfortable.)

It is simply a small radiator inline with the return hose that is connected to the plastic overflow tank. If you wish to add one, then the biggest problem will be locating a place to mount it. Since there is no pressure in the return line, a couple hoseclamps is all that is needed to plumb it in. Any small radiator like a xmission cooler would suffice... it just needs 2-3 passes of the pipe thru the core.

The one on the factory 4.7L is actually mounted just beside the PS pump. (on the engine). Perhaps you could look under the hood of some Daks with the factory towing package to see what it looks like.

I dont have a PS cooler and prefer to not have one. The steering used to get 'stiff' when outside temps are below -15F. I beleive adding a PS cooler may "overcool" the fluid in my situation.

Instead, I replaced my PS fluid with the RedLine PS fluid.... I never-again had 'stiff' steering in the winter. The RedLine base-stock can handle any heat that may get generated without breaking down so it is a good alternatave to having a PS cooler.

I would like to know more about your tranny cooler. I was told by two different dodge dealers. Cooler is not available by dodge for the 2005 dakota. How is your cooler installed so as not to have to modify the cooler lines. Can the dealer deny warranty work if the lines are modified. i am planning on bypassing the factory in the radiator cooler, any thoughs on this. I will not be in any weather area's below zero. Thanks, mike

Well to tell you both the truth. I took a good look under the hood. Not only is there a Tranny cooler (OEM - and i got under the truck and looked at the lines - so it is in fact there.!), there is also a power steering fluid cooler located by following the lines from the PS pump which sits right on the left front top side of motor. They are both incorporated into the same front radiator body (there are two of them), with the PS fluid coolling taking the top 30 % of that rad and the remainder being trans cooler.

Other 05/06 Dak owners could confirm this..?

I would like also to hear from anyone that has installed a fan-on-demand as opposed to one that is always running which is what I have in mine. Now it may be that due to the the way the motor is cooled with the Tstat being one that has a small bypass valve, one should not put in a fan-on-demand type. However if you have... Does it work well,

Pleas clarify. Do you just have the OEM tranny cooler that is located in the bottom of the radiator... or do you have a separate tranny cooler located in front of the radiator. with regard to the engine thermostat the factory is 195. I changed mine out to a 180 last year and have had no problems. My opinion,I do not believe the cost of an electric fan and removal of the existing fan blade is worth the increase in power benifits.

DONT REMOVE THE MECHANICAL FAN! It is thermostatically controlled. It basically "freewheels" most of the time...but if it senses the air coming thru the radiator over a specific temperture, it will "lock up" to the shaft and start to move a lot of air. You will know if this happens because the fan will start to noticably ROAR as the engine is revd.

My dak has an electric radiator fan also, it comes on when the AC is enguaged.

Well first of all. I do not in fact have a PS cooler..duh ..was looking at the AC pump and it has some lines going into the front thin small rad.!!

As for the Tranny cooler: You are right mike. I do not have a full blown cooler for the trans...hope I can get one installed in the next 3 days. Don't want to be sitting in Golden, BC with a blown tranny..!!! YIKes..!I noticed that the AC cooler has two receptacles for a bolt on OEM Trans cooler. Will check it out in the AM for price and installation.

Could you please write a follow-up after you have the bolt-on OEM trans cooler done. Also the part number would be nice. Presently I am planing on adding a hayden 1679 cooler and bypassing the factory-in-radiator one. Also adding a temp sensor ahead of the cooler with a gauge pod mounted on the steering column. I do not want to modify the original transmission lines. I believe the existing quick disconnects that are on the radiator can be removed and reused in a modified connection to the after market radiator. I have not checked this out yet. I was hoping your dealer install of a OEM bolt-on would shed some light since they keep tell me no aux trans cooler is available. Thanks for the responses. mike

I will write a follow up..but I am not so sure I am going with a dealer install. (not avail..?? - weird..it's part of the "tow pkg"). They tend to be a bit of a rip..Last time I was qutoed 425 for a trans cooler for a Montana (my previous Co. unit). Got it done for 225 cooler incl. at a private garage.

I did some looking around last night and think I will go with either a B & M or a Hayden like yourself. I,ve seen pricing in the 50-100 range CAD. What I want to know is which of the two lines is the return line to the Tranny.? I was thinking a bit about how to install the plumbing and think I will go in series. But put the cooler on the return line from the small cooler in the rad. That way the fluid should be coolest going back to the tranny. That might just work as a 2 stage cooler..?

BTW. I would like to know what PN & where you got that 180 Tstat..?? ( I thought about this too...if the motor is only good running at 195..how does it even drive when cold in the AM..Nah I am sure a 180 would work..!!)so yea I would like to know what you put in.?

Temp sensor for trans cooler would be a good idea..I will look into doing that as well.

Well it's real early here (5:56 Am) and gotta go to Red Deer (Dead Rear), this AM. But will be hunting for a Trans cooler this aft.

I put in a NAPA superstat Part # 530080. Now this stat is not listed for a dakota it comes back as for a ford something in their parts book. It does work. You have to get a new gasket from the dealer as it is a rubber ring that slips around the edge of the stat. There is a notch on the edge of the factory stat. Using a small file you can put a notch in the new stat so the gasket rubber ring fits properly. Now I reused the existing gasket and had no problem with leaking. But I do not recommend doing this. The Superstat is $7.00 at NAPA. Now you can also get a direct replacement one from Jet performance thermostats the part # is 10177 it cost $30.00 from SummitRacing.com. I am not sure if it comes with the gasket rubber ring.Hope this was helpful for you. If you check the other forum sites, you will find both pro's and con's to this modification. Most who have done the change like it. Those apposed do not indicate what problems you would have,some do not know just don't recommend it. Make sure you leave the radiator cap off until the engine comes up to temp to make sure no air was trapped in the cooling system. Whether factory or aftermarket it will overheat with trapped air. If you need more coolant use the correct type and do not add water to the coolant, I believe the owner's manual indicates this.Also when these type of thermostats fail, they fail in the open position and the engine will run too cold. I'll be looking for your write up. Mike

Great info on the Tstat. will look for that and i would love to know how/where it goes..?? Seems a bit strange to have to possibly remove the alt to get at where I would think the Tstat goes..?...and yea I have seen the rubber gasket when I went looking for a 180..a bit different but I know what it looks like...cool.

let me know

I bought a Trans Cooler by "Long" for $ 70.00 CAD today in a Red Deer Tranny Place. Installed the cooler body no problem. The pkg. came supplied with enough brackets and HD screws/bolts-nuts-locks-hose to do this easily. When I went to remove the return line (looking from the front of the engine compartment, it is the one on the right side of the rad), it leaked a bit of rad fluid. Don't worry about it, just remove the nut (7/8" wrench stubby if you got one or a line wrench of that size), and pull the fitting out. It is a bit of a weird set-up as the brass block (inside the bottom part of the rad), that the fittings are attached to seems to be loose inside it's compartment...and at first it made it a bit difficult to re-insert the fitting. Just push on the steel tubing and it will take.

BTW..I do not think you can get away without using this so called OEM cooler, as without fittings in them, it will leak out rad fluid.

Anyway I cut the return line in two and used 2 dbl. barbed hose nipples (3/8"), and connected the cooler lines to the cut ends. I used Oetiker style clamps..std fare in a welding supply shop. They are the crimp type on 2 sides of the clamp and once crimped, will never let go...but you will need the crimping plier to do it.

Once installed, I ran the engine for about 10 minutes to check for leaks .. found none .. so it seems good to go.!

Wish I had my digital camera (got stolen at the Global Petroleum Show here last week)...Anyway when I get my new one I will post some pics on webshots:

If I understand you correctly. If I remove the two quick disconnects that appear to be threaded into the radiator housing which are actually threaded into the transmission cooler coil unit located inside the radiator and this unit will fall away from the inside of the radiator housing and all the coolant inside the radiator will drain out.

Wow I didn't realize the radiator was build that cheap. I hope I find a source for the quick disconnect fittings. I really do not want to cut into the factory lines. Thanks for all your help.

Also the thermostat is located in the lower left front of the engine. The lower radiator hose is connected to the thermostat housing. Drain the radiator, remove the lower radiator house, remove the thermostat housing two bolts, pay close attention to how thermostat is installed so you do not re-install it backwards. Be careful that stat is align correctly. You can break the stat housing, damage bolts or engine housing threads if you do not take your time. I found it best to work from underneath truck. Just don't get any coolant in your face.

I don't think that the brass block will fall away as there is very little room for it to go anywhere. I did not however have both of the lines off at the same time. And if these are considered quick-disconnect...I would hate to see what a normal connect is..!! I had to use a stubby 7/8 wrench to get them off. Although the cooler I bought came with extra fittings, none of them seemed to match the threading in said brass block. That is why I went with splicing the lines. It is OK to do so as long as you use good clamps )...std hose clamps are in my opinion - useless. If required use good size dbl barbed nipples (3/8).

You will not loose all your rad fluid at all...just a few drips/drops will come out but they will come out continuously.

The fittings I believe are some sort of hydraulic type compression fitting as it has a flare which you will see when you go to remove the return line.

While I was at Best Buy performance here in Calgary, I bought an inline filter for the cooler as well..fairly inexpensive I thought at $35.00CAD .. it too is installed on the return line after the cooler...now having given this some thought now, I probably should have put it into the "in" line side of the cooler as opposed to the last thing before it goes back to the tranny. oh well...can't hurt I feel.

Today I finally received my Magnaflow exhaust..damned glad I had a torch here as the old clamps were almost impossible to remove without it. Once the old system was out it was only 15 minutes to install the magnaflow...nice sound, and we shall see in the ensuing time how much of a performance improvement it is. It's just too bad superchips hasn't come up with a programmer just yet...I hear end of summer maybe.

Well only thing left before I go to BC is to get the brakes done...(company expense). May as well, as I hear some squealing.

curious..have you had any weird things go with your rakes.?? After first getting this truck and if I would step on them real hard I got a shuddering/front end shaking happening that is not (IMHOP), the anti skid braking system. Talked to Dodge and they said at the time there was nothing wrong. Go figure .. A dealer not accepting that their brakes SUCK.?? Imagine that..!! (sic). Just got to read the LemonAide guide and see how many complain about Dodge Brakes..!!

Anyway, I took it back in at around 22k and they said I needed all new brakes and charged me for them too.!! I was choked. I'm at 93K at this time ... do lots of business driving.! I will probably have 135 -140 by April and then I can buy it for cheap.