Coffee Guide: Coffehouse NW

That Coffeehouse NW is a destination for coffee fans citywide is a miracle. The pedestrian-hostile, auto-drenched corridor of Burnside Street is anything but cute—not so much resembling the two-lane, café-lined Eastside connectors like Belmont and Mississippi. And while Coffeehouse NW was trying to build its customer base, Gerding Edlen’s was building a condo tower right across the street. As the monstrous Civic rose skyward, pile drivers shook its turn-of-the-century brick-clad foundation, shooing everyone but regulars away. Even without construction chaos, Coffeehouse NW has small signage and its auto access is limited from a one-way side street lined with inadequate parking.

But Coffeehouse NW has survived—and thrived—for a simple reason: Quality. This little coffee shop on Burnside serves the great coffee.

Cappuccino

The shots are pulled ristretto-style. Defined simply, ristretto-style espresso is the initial burst of nectar that emerges from the basket when hot filtered water passes through it. If the shot isn’t perfect, it’s dumped.

According to the owners, espresso is best when pulled between three and six days after roasting, because that’s when it’s most syrupy and lingering. And because Stumptown delivers twice a week, the espresso usually falls within that range. Because the slightest change in temperature or humidity affects the characteristics of espresso, Coffeehouse chose a Seattle-made Synesso espresso machine that allows the brew time and temperature to be adjusted according to these changes, which occur often and throughout the day.

Good espresso is the ultimate sensory experience, and here it’s usually near perfect beneath its thin veil of crema. It’s best consumed in two quick, deep slurps—or so my barista tells me. He also tells me it ought to coat the entire tongue, so that the flavor receptors can process the delectable flood of information that only excellent espresso can convey, and so its finish will linger for ten minutes or more. It does.

Macchiattos are a treat at Coffeehouse NW. Served in cup slightly larger than normal, steamed milk is free-poured and the end result is more like mini cappuccinos than what is normally thought of as a macchiato, which is the most inconsistently interpreted espresso drink in Portland. Cappuccinos are dinky, full-flavored masterpieces served in traditional 5.5-ounce cups. In every drink that calls for steamed milk, flawless foam that facilitates a silky mouthfeel is the rule, not the exception.

Hot Chocolate

One of the best additions to the repertoire has nothing to do with coffee at all. The hot chocolate—like the mochas—made with Michel Cluzel single-origin Venezuelan chocolate, whole milk and just a pinch of Portuguese sea salt. It’s awesome. Of course lattes and Café a lait round out the repertoire, and very good house coffee is available drip or French press.

The emerging American espresso tradition was founded in part by calling into question the Italian tradition, which is where originates the notion of espresso as served in single or double-shot increments. Coffeehouse NW was one of the first cafes in Portland not to serve single shots, instead choosing to regard espresso more straightforwardly, that is, the entire amount of dark-hued liquid that falls from the portafilter and not half of that. Coffeehouse NW was also serving Nuvrei baked goods before Stumptown, and has recently added Crema’s delicious granola to round out the line-up.

The space is small and homey with exposed brick and high ceilings plus vintage pendent lighting and dark wood cabinetry inherited from the previous tenant, Portland Coffee House. A remodel that will add additional space for tables and a lighter color scheme is planned for next spring, and thereafter McGovern hopes to introduce more food options.

Speaking of this American espresso tradition, Portland is lucky to have more than a few places furthering it. Coffeehouse NW is among them.

Great review. I like this place a lot, and you’re right, it exists as a sole oasis in a desert of sub-par (for Portland) coffee joints on the west side. That Adam fellow is a class A coffee nerd – in the best possible way.

Yeah, Coffee House NW. I should have listened to my friend several months ago who kept telling me about this place, as I am just now discovering their amazing touch with the espresso drinks.

One thing that is either charming or annoying is that the floor on the east side of the cafe slopes downward making for some extreme tilted tables. You need to be careful with a full beverage (spillage factor). However it does give everything a bit of an “Alice in Wonderland” feeling.

It is an interesting look at the way the same beans (Stumptown), in the hands of a passionate barista, can taste much different than when other folks pull the shot. When I’m on the west side, I also head to this place.

I’m with Nikos on Half and Half espresso. It’s good and they even use the same machine. However, Half and Half suffers from what most cafes suffer from: extreme inconsistency with coffee drinks. Every time I’ve ordered my usual coffee drink, a Macchiatto, it’s different. Sometimes it’s free-poured and wonderful, other times it’s espresso with a sad layer of scooped dry foam–just like Starbucks. One guy there makes them with a bit of half and half, the other baristas do not. Sometimes it’s poured into an espresso cup, sometimes not.

Nikos: It wasn’t meant as a slam on people who live on the west side – it’s just that most of my coffee moments (and this includes not just the coffee, but the setting, environment, general am-bi-ance) in N.W./Pearl are less enjoyable (and usually more expensive) than what I experience in Northeast/Southeast.

everyone knows the westside rocks. but yes coffee can be a problem in NW even tho there are 35 million coffeeshops. Other than coffeehouse NW, Ken’s Artisan Bakery has the best coffee in the neighb if you can manage the wait. On the next tier would be Cafe D’Italia, Sydney’s and the Fehrenbacher Hof, after which there is a dangerously precipitous dropoff.

People, can’t we ever get over this constant “my side of the Willamette is better than your side” feud? We live in Portland, universally acknowledged as one of the country’s great cities for coffee. I think it’s safe to assume there are many great places to get coffee on both sides of the river. (I know for a fact that’s true of the west side. I assume it’s also true on the east, though I rarely go there because all that seething resentment east siders constantly display toward the west side is really off-putting.)

I live on the Westside for convenience. The lifestyle Portland touts (environmental responsibility, good transit, etc) can actually be practiced on the west side of the river. Not to start a huge feud here, but most of my Eastside friends drive almost everywhere–despite being more vocal about wars in the Middle East, etc. Still, having said that, the majority of new great restaurants are opening on the Eastside. Just look at the Portland Monthly top ten list: 7 of the 10 top eateries are located on the Eastside. As for brunch, the Eastside cannot be beat. There are very few places to have a good, inexpensive brunch on the west side of the river. The coffee situation is getting much better here, but NW Portland remains a black hole other than a few places. The Pearl is a little better (Acorn and Sip and Kranz), and the new Stumptown in the Ace Hotel filled a large void…though it’s too bad a small coffee costs two bucks.

Papaki: I was not aware of this “eastside-westside feud to which you refer. I happily leave “my” side of the river several times a week, unlike you, apparently. “Seething resentment”… what? I’m confused.

Jill-O: Yes, Courier Coffee is great, although two of the places you list are in North and S.E. Portland. Half and Half and Acorn are certainly good bets – you are right. But with regard to my above comment concerning overall vibe and ambience, is there anything along the lines of an Albina Press, Extracto, Random Order or Ristretto in N.W.? (No, not Sydney’s or Ken’s Artisan Bakery – sorry.)

This is an sincere inquiry, and not meant as a divisive east/west dig. Like I said, I’m on the westside often, so I’d love to know.

Agree with pdx-state, it is easier to have a walking/transit oriented life in the west side, so we prefer the local establishments. Albina Coffee is superb, but it is in the middle of a rather… unattractive neighborhood (speaking of am-bi-ance). I prefer to walk to a coffee place with my New York Times (try to find the New York Times around Albina Coffee Press…) Ristretto is in the back corner of a shopping plaza (I find that very un Parisian.) Having said that I enjoy the eastside restaurants and I wish the eastside residents demanded better streetcar and lightrail service from the city! Judging from all the suggestions from other posters, how many cities can say, well we ONLY have Cafe d’Italia, Sydney’s, Stumptown etc but wait till you cross the river! An embarassement of riches! (to conclude my overall point)

Ristretto Roasters shares a parking lot with three shops on the corner of NE 42nd and Fremont. We’re around the corner, on 42nd; we have outdoor cafe tables, and the NY Times every day. Sorry to be picky, but “back corner of a shopping plaza” sounds as though we’re tucked away inside somewhere.

Nikos – Don’t be silly! Well, be as silly as you want, but also say hello. I am the one in the morning at the counter, reading the paper, yakking, or both. (PS: Din Johnson, my husband, is the roaster and owner.)

“But with regard to my above comment concerning overall vibe and ambience, is there anything along the lines of an Albina Press, Extracto, Random Order or Ristretto in N.W.? (No, not Sydney’s or Ken’s Artisan Bakery – sorry.)”

How about World Cup? Anna Bananas?

BTW, I just mentioned the other places (the ones not in NW) as other places that serve Courier in addition to Acorn and Half and Half.

“But with regard to my above comment concerning overall vibe and ambience, is there anything along the lines of an Albina Press, Extracto, Random Order or Ristretto in N.W.? (No, not Sydney’s or Ken’s Artisan Bakery – sorry.)”

“How about World Cup? Anna Bananas? ”

Anna Bannanas does a terrible job of coffee, and keeps a sloppy house, so I definitely wouldn’t put them in the same league as Albina, Ristretto, etc. They also have Caffe D’Arte beans from seattle which I think are terrible. World Cup is so-so but still not a Ristretto etc.

One place I forgot that approaches those eastside connoisseur spots: Java Vivace. Very skilled Baristas, stumptown coffee, crepes and a patio, awesome old house (and not dirty like annas ;).

Papaki, you yourself seem to be perpetuating/promoting/exemplifying this supposed east-west “animosity”. I’ve lived on both sides, am a native, and traverse them with total ease and self-assuredness. When you do venture to the wilds of the east, how does this “seething resentment” manifest itself? How can they spot you, this Birkenstock-shod, torch & pitchfork bearing mob?

I wouldn’t be so self-assured, given the earthquake risk and the numerous old bridges one has to cross. Oh, now, birkenstocks are a stereotype, although not uncommonly, flip flops for dinner appear on both sides of the river occasionally.

To return to the original post: “…Coffeehouse NW has dinky signage and its auto access is limited from a one-way side street lined with inadequate parking. Fair to say its next-door neighbors–Panda Express and check cashing outlet—probably don’t garner much foot traffic or lure in many new customers” it DOES sound a lot like the east side! (Oh I can hear the pitchforks coming out…)

Wow, best macchiato ever was consumed this morning at Coffeehouse NW. These people are solely responsible for bringing to my attention via my taste buds just how excellent coffee can be. I only hope that one day I can come close to mastering the Synesso and producing the beautiful, tasty works of art Coffeehouse consistently provides.

“Coffeehouse NW was one of the first cafes in Portland not to serve single shots, instead choosing to regard espresso more straightforwardly, that is, the entire amount of dark hued liquid that falls from the portafilter and not half of that.”

This isn’t true at all. Double ristretto shots are, and have forever been, the default in NW style espresso. In fact it is one of the defining features of NW espresso. I think having a sign talking about it, and emphasizing it, is something that Coffeehouse NW was one of the first to do. Not a major point, but incorrect as reviewed.

Coffeehouse NW is a great cafe and really pays attention to the coffee. I’m treated like family by the staff and am glad to patronize it often. Well done!

Ristretto Roasters has been disappointing every time I’ve tried it. I don’t understand the acclaim they receive. It is nice as an alternative to Stumptown, but it isn’t as if Terroir Coffee opened a cafe here.

Agreed completely with kfm. Coffeehouse NW is not good because of some groundbreaking insistence against ‘single’ shots (and my impression, which could be wrong, is that actual single espressos are different in dosage than doubles, not a divided double, just like a triple should be a different dose, not 1.5 doubles, but that most places just chop a double in half when making a single). Coffeehouse NW is great because they are the most consistent coffeehouse in the city.

No place makes drinks so spot on so much of the time this year. Not either Albina Presses, not any of the Stumptowns, definitely not Ristretto at my last check, and, unfortunately, none of the places which serve Courier. I can’t talk about Extracto because it’s a bit far for me, although I have really enjoyed the drinks there now that they’re roasting themselves. They’re all good, but I literally have never had an off drink at Coffeehouse NW. Their macchiati are perfect. Their espresso is perfect. This year, they are definitely on top.

Last point, this east west stuff is bizarre. I have lived all over PDX and although occasionally I notice some people snarking about one area or another, the debate above is really skewed. Portland would be way sadder without every great neighborhood it has. What phantasmic hostility…? And I guarantee you can get the Times anywhere.