Haven't forgotten about this model, just trying to figure out how to do the nose windows. I think (know) I'll cut them out with my craft cutter and glue them to the underside of the 1/32 balsa. I know they should be flush, but ................

First pic shows the windows cut from a plastic sheet; the windows have to fit around the interior balsa stringers hence the irregular perimeters. The second pic shows the forward most window installed. I still have to 'tune up' the cut file a little, and find some better, thinner, plastic sheet.

Thanks Steve. It's been a fun build so far. Currently wondering if I should cover the nose, but leave the bottom two stringer widths open to allow installation of the windows, or install the windows, then cut the window openings after the tissue is installed.

Had a good chuckle when I read your post because every single time I did a window test installation from the inside, the 'glass' fell inside the fuse and most of the time it was very difficult to find. There would be no way to find the fallen windows if I had covered the fuse first. So, have decided to try gluing some window material over the outside balsa (done), apply the printed tissue over, then carefully cut the window openings in the tissue. The pic shows the nose with the 'glass' glued over the balsa, and one of my many test pieces with the tissue 'hacked' away. I was quite brutal with the tissue removal in the test piece just to test the integrity of the 'glass'.

Will try installing the printed fuse tissue in the next few days and report back.

Been following your build with interest - I love how you manage to convey so much with simple structures in your models

Just a thought - the windows look quite small and maybe don't need to be stiff material? Could you cover the whole nose section in thin mylar and then heat shrink it? And then apply tissue over the top with cut-outs where required? (I haven't thought this through particularly so I don't doubt you're ahead of me, but I thought I'd throw it out there )

Don - I have had good luck laying tissue over clear plastic windows and then carefully cutting the tissue. My process involves an application of rubber cement to the clear plastic before the tissue is applied. I then shrink the tissue and apply the number of coats of dope I planned to use. Once the dope is set I then carefully cut away the tissue. The rubber cement protects the plastic from the dope. Doping the tissue before the windows are cut out makes it easier to get clean edges. Once cut, tease up a corner/edge and then peel the tissue off the window. The rubber cement will come off very cleanly. If there is any residue, it is easy to rub off.

Brilliant idea Paul. If I may add one simple thing. How bad would it be to not round the corners and just go square...OR do the corners with a (tiny but) sharp needle file first, then cut the sides tops and bottoms straight away (with a broken off double edge razor)? Just a thought or two. Working small requires a small mind!

Good am Don, I was re-reading my Chieftain thread this am and though about the tiny windows in the nose of your B-17....fred mentioned a heat shrink lam film called doculam...1.2mil thick and puncture resistant. If you are gonna cut the tissue after you mount it to the plastic, this might be a good thin and tough option. Its available at Staples or Amazon and its cheap.

Thank you for the info, but have already glued some clear plastic in place and have just started the recovering. I plan to cut the tissue around the windows, then decide if I should proceed. I've made the nose art about 25% larger in the second tissue printing.