For those who can't watch the video, this was a case of "some protection," not nada. He was quite run out, fell, hit a flake and flipped upside down. It's not really clear what the extent of the injuries are apart from a badly sprained or broken ankle, but he seems fully lucid at the end.

Oh, and he wasn't wearing a helmet. Surprised you didn't point that out, Majid.

I think the best example provided in that vid is the notion of not trying to max out your ability at the same time you max our your pro. The dude was too runnout for his skill level. He was thrashin about (laws knows I've flopped and continue to flop too) -, floppin around like a carp, right next to bomber footlocks... above a bad fall with shit for pro.

I think the real message in this video is how the guy was climbing past his skill level. I mean, that crack is there for the taking, but I saw lots of foot-holds near-by. He could have found easier balance, and moves suited to his body.

I think the failure began when his left hand slipped out of the crack. Was he tired and pumped? Or was he thinking about a route to surmount the cliff-edge?

This group of climbers should have put up a top-rope, and then learned how to use the features the rock provides. They would have had a bit of fun, and then moved on from there.

he kept going and going without protecting himself and even the one he placed 15 feet below pulled out when he fell.

Yeah, but the one a few feet below that held. Actually looks like he had it pretty well protected up to the point where the video starts.

If I had to guess at his mindset, I'd say that he got himself into a position where he couldn't figure out how to go from the layback into a stable position to place gear. All too easy to do - I've been there myself. Couldn't figure out how to safely place more gear, too pumped to downclimb, too scared to deliberately take the fall... only one place to go but up. Sucked it up, took the gamble and, unfortunately, lost.

It happens when you push yourself. Sometimes you get into situations you don't know how to handle. The process is called learning.

he kept going and going without protecting himself and even the one he placed 15 feet below pulled out when he fell.

Yeah, but the one a few feet below that held. Actually looks like he had it pretty well protected up to the point where the video starts.

If I had to guess at his mindset, I'd say that he got himself into a position where he couldn't figure out how to go from the layback into a stable position to place gear. All too easy to do - I've been there myself. Couldn't figure out how to safely place more gear, too pumped to downclimb, too scared to deliberately take the fall... only one place to go but up. Sucked it up, took the gamble and, unfortunately, lost.

It happens when you push yourself. Sometimes you get into situations you don't know how to handle. The process is called learning.

Trad climbing does have one of the steepest learning curves around. Gotta learn that down climbing though.

he kept going and going without protecting himself and even the one he placed 15 feet below pulled out when he fell.

Yeah, but the one a few feet below that held. Actually looks like he had it pretty well protected up to the point where the video starts.

If I had to guess at his mindset, I'd say that he got himself into a position where he couldn't figure out how to go from the layback into a stable position to place gear. All too easy to do - I've been there myself. Couldn't figure out how to safely place more gear, too pumped to downclimb, too scared to deliberately take the fall... only one place to go but up. Sucked it up, took the gamble and, unfortunately, lost.

It happens when you push yourself. Sometimes you get into situations you don't know how to handle. The process is called learning.

Trad climbing does have one of the steepest learning curves around. Gotta learn that down climbing though.

Indeed it does, and indeed you do.

What I know is that, as a n00b, I got myself into at least one or two situations* at least as sticky as that guy. The only difference between me and him is that I got away with it.

* For example, there's the time that, due to misreading of the guidebook, I found myself leading off from a ledge about 100m off the valley floor, into a slight overhang on dodgy Blue Mountains Sandstone and no opportunities for gear, with a belay anchor that consisted of a bush the diameter of my wrist and a loose rock that weighed maybe as much as I did. I got away with it, and I learned from it.

yea some extra gear in one of the many potential spots would have been a boon for him. I like how he says "broke my ankle, again" Ouch and ouch again. It was one of those ???hey I am falling??? falls, over and painful before he even knew what hit him.

If the point of this forum is to help us educate ourselves, then I have a hard time imagining a starker example for somebody not to follow. It was almost scary to watch -- a perfect example of exactly what dingus pointed out.

If the point of this forum is to help us educate ourselves, then I have a hard time imagining a starker example for somebody not to follow. It was almost scary to watch -- a perfect example of exactly what dingus pointed out.

I don't think it was incredibly stupid though. Obviously he was confident in not decking, enough pro held. It would have been smarter to cram another cam in somewhere (obviously), but when we push our limits we don't always keep our legs unbroken. The only thing i noticed that I would say he is lucky for is the lack of helmet and no aparent head injury.