BubbajoexxxI was looking over you site on the brake upgrades and decided to do it myself with the bolt pattern change(5 X 3/4 ). I am hoping you can shed a little light on something for me. What year 6000 uprights do I need? Also what year chevy 4X4 hubs do I need for the rear? Last question. I thought I read somewhere in this massive post about having to use a cadillac part to mate the 4X4 axle with the fiero axle? what is this piece? Awesome thread by the way. Interesting concept! Thanks for your help.

BubbajoexxxI was looking over you site on the brake upgrades and decided to do it myself with the bolt pattern change(5 X 3/4 ). I am hoping you can shed a little light on something for me. What year 6000 uprights do I need? Also what year chevy 4X4 hubs do I need for the rear? Last question. I thought I read somewhere in this massive post about having to use a cadillac part to mate the 4X4 axle with the fiero axle? what is this piece? Awesome thread by the way. Interesting concept! Thanks for your help.

Never mind Bub...i've got to swing by your place. Always up in and around that area filling orders for customers anyway. Darn! email me @ torontobodyparts@rogers.com to let me know when you'll be working on her and ill swing on by!

for thos of you who want to do the rear body flair I am posting the prosedure step by step including instruction

first of all you need a notchy rear clip and need to separate the outer skinn from the inner liner .simple to do with a good putty knifeOnce separated you will need to cut the upper section of to look like this from the bottom lip 6 1/2 inches up the cut back at the B piller as in the pic

next bend 2 pieces of metal in a z shape to form a base to set the new pannel on as in the next 2 pics

the metal is bent 2 inches and tapers to 0 at each endnow set the new panel in place and make sure the front edge is in line with the body line and clamp into place the clamp the rear making sure the panel is flush at the top as you press it in and you will find the rear drops below the body line at the rear by 1 inch or less

at this point mark where the rear needs to be cut as in the pics

now that the panel matches the body you MUST BE SURE TO REMOVE ALL PAINT from the surfaces you will be fiberglassing as if you DONT the glass will not bond and will peal off .Use 40 grit sand paper to prep the surface for bonding the ruffer the surface the better the bond

now you have the surfaces preped for bonding place the pannel into place using clamp where possible and screws every 4 inches alone the top 3/4 of an inch below the bonding line

now mix you fiberglass resin acording to the instructions and apply short 3 inch long by 1nch stipsover the length of the area to bond and let harden you will apply wider stips each time to build up the area of the bond 1" 2" then 3" sanding between layers to keep the area flat once first layer is hard remove the screws and add each new layer

as you finish each layer you will see the area fill in better fiberglass than bondo

more tomorrow will be doing the body stips for attaching the panels and bunper

When I go to Buffalo I always hit the tim h....it rocksthat car looks GREAT... it really is an amazing feat of customization.let the world see it.. be proud..I'm proud just to be a member of the same forum as people like you and madcurl.

Hi Bubba, thanks for all your help, how about the torque amounts for the rear corvette caliper swap: caliper to mount and mount to upright, thanks. and btw did you ever have a pic or description of how to hook up the rear brake cables?

Knock on wood but HOW much would it suck if this car got rear ended or something small. I mean look at the work involved in all of this...this car is, from front to back, custom. Bubba needs a helper...ever though of opening up your own shop?

Knock on wood but HOW much would it suck if this car got rear ended or something small. I mean look at the work involved in all of this...this car is, from front to back, custom. Bubba needs a helper...ever though of opening up your own shop?

Keep up the good work!

SR

unfortunatly for ever 6 hours I spend on the car it take me 36 hour to recover from the pain I suffer with my back though I would love to have a shop to help everone out with there cars I could never surive the pain . I'm in bad shape with my back .

Hi Bubba, thanks for all your help, how about the torque amounts for the rear corvette caliper swap: caliper to mount and mount to upright, thanks. and btw did you ever have a pic or description of how to hook up the rear brake cables?

caliper to mount 45 ftlbsmount to upright 35 ftlbs

if using 88 calipers with ebrake you need one new cable I always make my own

When I go to Buffalo I always hit the tim h....it rocksthat cat looks GREAT... it relly is an amazing feat of customization.let the world see it.. be proud..I'm proud just to be a member of the same forum as people like you and madcurl.

Thanks Joe, I have the 96 rear vette calipers and they came with some short brake cable still attached to them, the fiero cables have a barrel at the end while the vette has the loop. Not sure what to do.

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Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:

caliper to mount 45 ftlbsmount to upright 35 ftlbs

if using 88 calipers with ebrake you need one new cable I always make my own

Thanks Joe, I have the 96 rear vette calipers and they came with some short brake cable still attached to them, the fiero cables have a barrel at the end while the vette has the loop. Not sure what to do.

I usualy cut and remove the inner cable then using 1/8 aircraft cable make a new one using crimp clamps all you need is a good vise to squeeze them shut

What color are you going to paint it?Somebody photoshop 88gt nose on it and do it in some colors.

the nose is 88 4 cylinder and will have a custom air dam installed I dont like the GT nose on this car I had one on there and removed it and the car will be painted tangerine pearl check out this link to see it in one color http://toddshotrods.com/geneticart.htm

Double C, you are da man when it comes to photoshop work. Humour us all - What if you shaved the door handles, glass in the molding, paint the roof and "A" pillars black with tinted glass all around and leave the ass end slightly higher than the front end? Bubba, not trying to tell what you should do but this a great way to see conceptual ideas on probably one of the most modified Fiero's ever attempted. No disrepect intended to Madcurl because he has and continues to push the Fiero envelope with each and every Fiero he owns.

Double C, you are da man when it comes to photoshop work. Humour us all - What if you shaved the door handles, glass in the molding, paint the roof and "A" pillars black with tinted glass all around and leave the ass end slightly higher than the front end? Bubba, not trying to tell what you should do but this a great way to see conceptual ideas on probably one of the most modified Fiero's ever attempted. No disrepect intended to Madcurl because he has and continues to push the Fiero envelope with each and every Fiero he owns.

all my fiero's have the trademark satin black roof section and there is no way to fill the mouldings in and have it last as there is nothing on this earth that will hold well to poly panels as the doors and front are made of I have seend 4 cars filled and all of them start cracking and pealing in a year or so the only way to get the fully smooth look is to make glass door skins bumpers and fenders the bond them all together. the best one I sen done took 4 weeks to be done and was full of cracks after the first speed bump he hit with the chin spoiler and that was done all with epoxy resin filler 4000 dollar paint job shot on one bump.