1X -3 3/8"x24 inverted flare male. usually sold in a pack of two but, you only need one. RUSSELL PN# 643961

1X 3/8"x24 -3 female brake fitting. RUSSELL PN# 641291

1X 7/16"x20 -3 male brake fitting. RUSSELL PN# 641321

2X 3/16x3/16-24 Brake ends. EDELMANN PN# 121003

A drill and a drill bit. I don't remember the exact size I used but, it can't be that hard to figure out.

Your also going to need a double flare kit. I rented mine from autozone make sure you get the metric one.

Now for installing:

Before doing anything REMOVE THE DRIVELINE!!!

The first thing I did when installing the handbrake was move it to the spot I felt was most comfortable drilled then mounted it. *stay towards the center of the tunnel to avoid hitting the brake line.

Now drill the holes for the lines to run through the body and then hook them to the master cylinder on the e-brake then run the lines through the holes you just drilled to mock up where you need to cut your brake line.

Now that the lines are running though the body crawl under the car and cut where the end of the steel braided lines meet with the hardline.

Now slip on the brake lines ends and grab your flaring tool. what you want to do when flaring is make sure the line is sticking out enough so the adapters bottom lip is hellaflush (lol) with end of the tubing.

Now your ready to double flare. (I'm not going to show how to do this there's google for that)

Now that both lines and double flared and you cleaned the brake fluid out of your eye your ready to install the fittings.

Install both the 3/8"x 24-3 female brake fittings to the end of the braided lines and connect them to the brake line ends.

Now just bleed your brakes as if the hydraulic e-brake is not even there.

One more thing is get some rubber grommets to put on the lines where they go through the body to keep them from rubbing.

The inline setup seems to work, but you may see weird stuff with that handle moving when you hit the brakes and also if you even use the brake pedal when using the handle you'll get some wackiness as well (although that's rare that you'd ever do it).

A dual caliper drift brake for the rear of the 510 would be sweet as well!

I have been looking into doin this on my Rotary Dime. But I want one that actually "locks" when you park. Does this hydraulic e-brake lock in place? I have the brakelines already in my center console as I have a proportioning valve.

Did you use dual calipers or just splined into the existinf brake system? Nice write up.

this setup used the factory rear brakes. if it was a seporate caliper style it would have a seporate resivor and not be spliced into the rear brake lines.

What he said^

I have been looking into doin this on my Rotary Dime. But I want one that actually "locks" when you park. Does this hydraulic e-brake lock in place? I have the brakelines already in my center console as I have a proportioning valve.

I forgot to say that. Yes it has a locking feature. I've been setting it before I go into work and when I got off it still is solid after holding for 10 hours. I've been doing this the past week with the same result.

I would recommend that you add the final result pic from your build thread in here. That way people can see how its suppose to turn out. This is something that I have thought about doing, but since I now have a center console in my 510, I have nowhere to put the handle Maybe I can think on it and fab something up.

I would recommend that you add the final result pic from your build thread in here. That way people can see how its suppose to turn out. This is something that I have thought about doing, but since I now have a center console in my 510, I have nowhere to put the handle Maybe I can think on it and fab something up.

Good tutorial.

Done. My next step is finding a center console I should of done that before the instal but, I got anxious staring at this thing. lol

Why the flex lines? They always swell slightly when pressure is applied. Not really needed are they? I would have bent up some nice neat tubing runs that hug the tunnel.

The steel braided lines are not needed but, will serve the same purpose with less of a hassle of bending tubing.

so for about 100 bucks you can have an e brake that actually holds the car in place and make it that much more fun i like it i might do this in the 610 since it currently has no e brake i dont feel like making cables for it

the first rule of Ratsun is you don't talk about Ratsun... no wait thats fight club.....

so for about 100 bucks you can have an e brake that actually holds the car in place and make it that much more fun i like it i might do this in the 610 since it currently has no e brake i dont feel like making cables for it

if just looking for a hydrolic park feature and dont want a drift brake u can just plumb one of these in the rear. i used to put them on sand cars adn stuff all day long. all u do is put it in line like done above. when u park. hold ur brake pedal down, hold the button down and release the pedal. it hold the fluid in the line. to release all you do it push the pedal down and when the pressure ig reater in front of the unit it pops open. they work great.and a lil cheaper.

Has anyone ever seen a Park Loc hydraulic e-brake? If I understand how this works correctly it is a really cheap hydraulic e-brake.

That's what the post right above yours was about. It's not an e-brake, it's a line lock. Two different things. One, the "e" in e-brake means "emergency". Something you can use in case of hydraulic failure to safely stop the car. Line locks are either very basic park brakes (when used in the rear), or for drag racing (when used on the front brakes).

And I hate to argue semantics, but to the OP this set-up is a "parking brake", not an "emergency brake". In the event of an "emergency" hydraulic failure, this brake isn't doing much of anything.