Approach

The easiest way to get to Boy Scout Rocks is to enter Mount Diablo State Park from the south enterance. After passing the gate where you have to pay the fees, continue up the road for about a mile or so, like you're going up to the summit (but not that far). You can park at Gibraltar Rock or Rock City -- just pull off the side of the road. There are also some more established parking spots and a bathroom near the road itself. A narrow trail heads down from a couple of different places next to the road. This trail will wind down to the three tiers of the Boy Scout Rocks area. Note: there is often a plethora of Poison Oak plants here. Be careful.

Route Description

Boy Scout Rocks is a fun place to go and hone your technical rock climbing skills. It's quite sporty and easily accessable from the main road. During the winter this area generally has better weather than the rest of the Bay Area. Warning: It can be opressively hot during summer. The East Face of the Lower Tier is the best area, in my opinion, and houses perhaps one of the best 5.9 face climbs around --Amazing Face. I don't think I'll ever get tired of this climb! Earthcling, at 5.11b, can also be a nice aid bolt ladder. Ozone and Ozone Direct at 5.10c and 5.10d respectively, can be toproped and provide a great workout.

Names of Routes

Location

Grade

Comments

Pebbly Face

Upper Tier

5.10c

****

Chouinard's Crack

Upper Tier

5.8

***

Face

Upper Tier

5.10a

**

Pie Crust

Upper Tier

5.11c

**

Jungle Book

West Face of Middle Tier

5.10d

****

In the Buckets

West Face of Middle Tier

5.11c

*****

Face

West Face of Middle Tier

5.7 - 5.10

Many different lines exist

Crack

West Face of Middle Tier

5.6

**

Betty's Beard Left

North Face of Middle Tier

5.11b

Betty's Beard Right

North Face of Middle Tier

5.11a

Face

North Face of Lower Tier

5.10a

*

Crack

North Face of Lower Tier

5.7

**

Ozone

East Face of Lower Tier

5.10c

*****

Ozone Direct

East Face of Lower Tier

5.10d

*****

Godzilla

East Face of Lower Tier

5.12X

Bolted route that can be toproped but be ready for a swing.

Stegosaurus

East Face of Lower Tier

5.10b

***

Diagonal Crack

East Face of Lower Tier

5.10b

****

Face

East Face of Lower Tier

5.11dR

***

Dinosaur

East Face of Lower Tier

5.11b

***

Chimney

East Face of Lower Tier

5.7

**

Amazing Face

East Face of Lower Tier

5.9

*****

Bolt Route

East FAce of Lower Tier

5.10b

*****

Earthcling/Dire Blow

East Face of Lower Tier

5.11b

****

Essential Gear

The Boy Scout Rocks area is almost all toproping with a few bolted climbs. The Lower Tier is the highest at about 90 feet tall. If you are planning on leading any of the sport routes, bring maybe 12 quick draws. Otherwise, if you are just planning on toproping, bring some medium and long slings and a few locking carabiners for setting up anchors. Note: Boy Scout Rocks are all sandstone. Long slings may be necessary to get out and over edges that have been gouged by ropes. In general, toprope routes have bolts at the top or easy access to trees.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

"It's such a fine line between stupid and clever."
--David St. Hubbins