Pastry Royalty Performs at Sweet

Johnny Zs plays to the cameras (the dessert was awesome).haha
Photo: Melissa Hom

The city’s top dessert chefs, from Johnny Iuzzini on down, delighted deep-pocketed foodies with their signature confections at Sweet on Friday night. Evian and Ferro Rocher flexed their marketing muscle, dispatching well-formed young people in tight clothes to represent their not especially sexy brands. The pastry aristocracy (Goldfarb, Iuzzini, and Stupak) were all present and accounted for, standing proudly behind space-age-looking creations that tasted even better than they looked. (Only Sam Mason wasn’t around, as someone had to man the stoves at Tailor.) At first we were sort of alarmed: There were obviously many more guests than had originally been intended, for the long, narrow, space, but since cake isn’t combustible, it all seemed safe enough. A body can only take so much chocolate ganache, Champagne, and high-powered pastry cooks crammed into onehall.

We ran out of steam after our fourth piece of cake, but the crowd grazed on. Tom Colicchio mentioned that he was opening yet another ’wichcraft, this one on Park and 47th; Josh Gripper, A Voce’s new pastry chef, jokingly chided us for our use of profanity in our post about him, which made his mom upset. (We wrote the good lady a letter assuring her that Andrew Carmellini, and not us, was the one with the pottymouth.)

Will Goldfarb, noting the presence of a camera, joins a merry-looking Kate Krader of Food & Wine and the genial Jeffrey Steingarten of Vogue.Photo: Melissa Hom