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Vatnajökull glacier is the largest glacier in Europe, covering 8% of Iceland’s landmass.

It is the central feature of the Vatnajökull National park, found in the south west of Iceland, a popular spot for activities like glacier hiking from Skaftafell, boat tours in the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, and ice caving tours between November and March.

Facts about Vatnajökull

Vatnajökull has a surface area of approximately 8,100 square kilometres (3127 square miles); though it is rapidly shrinking due to climate change, its recession is not quite as advanced as at other glaciers, such as Langjökull and Mýrdalsjökull. In parts, it is a kilometre deep (over three million feet), and its average thickness is around half of that.

Vatnajökull also holds the tallest peak in Iceland beneath its ice; Hvannadalshnjúkur is 2,200 metres tall (7,218 feet). It also conceals some of the most active volcanoes in the country, the most notable being Grímsvötn, Öræfajökull and Bárðarbunga.

Volcanic activity in the region has occurred on and off throughout the centuries, and many geologists believe that several eruptions are overdue. If their calculations are correct, it would mean significant volcanic activity for Vatnajökull over the scope of the next half century.

Depending on winds, this could result in worldwide consequences in terms of air-travel, agriculture and the general climate.

The glacier boasts over 30 outlet glaciers, which are channels of ice that flow out of ice caps but remain constrained on the sides of the valley. The major outlet glaciers of Vatnajökull include Dyngjujökull in the north, Breiðamerkurjökull, and Skeiðarárjökull to the south. To the west, one can find the outlet glaciers Síðujökull, Skaftárjökull and Tungnaárjökull.

Numerous rivers run out of Vatnajökull, making up some of the greatest glacial rivers in Iceland. The most notable are:

Tungnaá (west)

Köldukvísl (west)

Þjórsá (west)

Jökulsá á Fjöllum (north)

Skjálfandafljót (north)

Jökulsá á Brú (north east)

Jökulsá í Fljótsdal (north east)

Jökulsá í Lóni (south)

Hornafjarðarfljót (south)

Jökulsá á Breiðamerkursandi (south)

Skeiðará (south)

Núpsvötn (south)

Hverfisfljót (south)

Skaftá (south)

Vatnajökull National Park

Vatnajökull National Park was established in June 2008, and has slowly grown to include more and more areas. The park now covers an area of 14,141 square kilometres (5,460 square miles), 14% of the country. It is the second largest national park in Europe.

Rivers divide the highland plateau to the north of the park. The volcanic table mountain Herðubreið towers over this particular region, along with volcanoes Askja, Snæfell and Kverkfjöll.

The canyon Jökulsárgljúfur was carved out by glacial floods centuries ago. At the upper end of the canyon, you'll find Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe. Further north, the horseshoe-shaped canyon Ásbyrgi is believed to have formed when Óðin's eight-legged horse, Sleipnir, stepped his foot down from the heavens.

East around Snæfell, one can find wetlands and ranges, home to roaming herds of wild reindeer and abundant birdlife. Steep mountain ridges make up the south side of Vatnajökull, where outlet glaciers crawl onto the lowlands. The sandy plains of Skeiðarársandur also lie to to the south, and the glacial river Skeiðará runs through this vast desert.

One of Iceland's most visited landmarks in the National Park is the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, which sits at the base of the outlet glacier Breiðamerkurjökull. Here, large icebergs that have broken off the glacier float across a vast lake before ending up in the Atlantic Ocean, or washed ashore on the nearby Diamond Beach.

This is one of the best seal-watching spots in the country.

The Future of Vatnajökull

The volume of Vatnajökull reached its peak around 1930 but has since been in a steady process of decline. Because of rising levels of global temperature, Vatnajökull has on average lost about a metre (three feet) of its thickness annually over the past 15 years.

If temperature levels continue to rise, the glacier could be all but gone nearing the end of the next century, leaving only small ice caps on top of the highest mountain summits.

Efforts are being made to prevent what some say is the inevitable, with reforestation projects going on all around the glacier, a proven method of cooling the area. Time will tell how successful they are.

Vatnajökull and Jökulsárlón in Popular Culture

The beauty of Vatnajökull National Park has not gone unnoticed by those in film or television. Many famous scenes have been shot here, starting with James Bond: A View to Kill in 1985. Other notable films with scenes here include Batman Begins, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and James Bond: Die Another Day.

Most famously, however, many places in Vatnajökull have been used in the HBO Series Game of Thrones, north of the Wall. The Wall itself is constructed with CGI using shots of the glacier.

Hvannadalshnúkur or Hvannadalshnjúkur is the highest peak of Öræfajökull volcanic glacier in Vatnajökull National Park and Iceland's highest peak. Its latest measurement finds it to be 2109 meters high.

The volcano had a massive eruption in 1362, destroying many farms and killing many people, and another less dramatic eruption in the year 1727. Today Öræfajökull is popular for hiking. You don't need much experience yourself as long as you are accompanied by seasoned guides, but the hike does require good stamina. As can be expected, the view from the top is astounding.

Skaftafell Nature Preserve can be found in Öræfasveit, the western region of Austur-Skaftafellssýsla in Iceland. Skaftafell once used to be a national park in its own right but was merged with the far larger Vatnajökull National Park in 2008.

Skaftafell is notable for its rich flora, growing between sands and glaciers, and for its amazing and contrasting scenery. At Skaftafell, visitors will find a wealth of natural attractions, from cascading waterfalls to panoramic views over this picturesque region.

Like many areas along the South Coast of Iceland, Skaftafell Nature Preserve is known for its glorious hiking trails. You can take short and easy treks to the waterfalls Svartifoss and Hundafoss, as well as to the gorgeous Skaftafell glacier. A little further along, guests will stumble on the mountain, Kristinartindar, as well as the scenic Morsardalur Valley.

Skaftafell is also the perfect base camp for those seeking to climb Iceland’s highest peak, Hvannadalshnúkur, or for those wishing to spend a number of days exploring the region's attractions, including Vatnajökull glacier, Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon and the nearby Diamond Beach. It is also an excellent region to try your hand at a spot of either ice climbing or glacier hiking; both activities are two of the most authentically Icelandic experiences you can partake in whilst in the country.

Skaftafell Visitor Center

Skaftafell also boasts a Visitors Centre, acting as the main information and meeting point for tour operators and independent travellers. At the Skaftafell Visitor Centre, you will find answers to virtually any questions you might have about the greater Skaftafell area, including its history and geology. The Visitors Centre also contains information about nearby hiking trails, recreational options and accommodation.

Svínafellsjökull in an outlet glacier of Vatnajökull, the largest ice cap in Europe, found within the Skaftafell Nature Reserve in Iceland's south-east.

It is one of the most popular glacier tongues to hike, with some tours upon it lasting throughout the year; ice climbing is also possible here. Because of its dramatic ridges, plunging crevasses, spectacular views and vivid blue and white colouration, it was used in Game of Thrones Season 7 to represent the harsh lands North of the Wall.

The South Coast of Iceland is the country's most visited sightseeing route, along with the Golden Circle.

This incredible shoreline stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east, and is lined with countess natural wonders such as cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, black sand beaches and glaciers.

Geography, Nature & Wildlife

The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Route 1 highway, which encircles Iceland. The area consists of a diverse lowland that transitions between, marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.

Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Its edges reach several hundred metres offshore where the ocean waves crash upon them, thereby protecting the lowland from the invasion of the sea. This results in the South Coast being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shore line.

The region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey, including the North Atlantic puffin between May and August. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.

Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.

Highlights of the South Coast

When driving the route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days from these beautiful cascades, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean.

A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the outlet of Sólheimajökull.

The aforementioned Dýhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Even if you come outside of puffin season, they are well worth a visit; jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.

Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, home to the rock pillars of Reynisdrangar, said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun. Though beautiful, this area is gaining notoriety for its dangerous sneaker waves, so visitors should be sure to stay well away from the edge of the water, even on a calm, still day.

There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.

After passing through Vík, you will cross the glacial sand plain of Skeiðarársandur, before entering Vatnajökull National Park, home to the largest ice cap in Europe, Vatnajökull itself, dozens of glacial outlets and the magnificent Jökulsárlon glacier lagoon.

While almost all of these sites can be seen from Route 1, they make up a fraction of what the South Coast has to offer. The vast sand plains of Sólheimasandur are home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck, and within the Vatnajökull National Park is the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve.

Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall, and short walks from Jökulsárlón will take you to the Diamond Beach, where icebergs wash on the black-sand shore, and another glacier lagoon, Fjallsárlón.

Olivia Padalewski

It was a great tour and we had a unique experience on the glacier! The guide was very friendly, funny, fluent in English and was taking care of us in a perfect way. We always felt safe and thus, enjoyed the tour very much. I can absolutely recommend it and I am glad we decided to join.