Restaurant review: Hae-Paul's

Thursday

Jan 24, 2013 at 12:01 AMJan 24, 2013 at 1:47 AM

Photo by Tim Johnson

“We don’t want to just kick food out, we want to put love into it” I overheard Hae-Paul’s accomplished chef tell admiring customers the other day. After tasting some of the chef’s dishes, I sensed the love.

Cooking unusual — in a good way — scratch-made, comforting yet healthy-edged, American and Asian fare at “please keep doing it” low prices, Hae-Paul’s offers an unbeatable new Downtown combination. Haven’t heard of Hae-Paul’s? It’s the just-renamed, ultra-casual South Fourth Street operation originally called Natalie’s (changed to distinguish it from the Worthington pizzeria sensation) manned by Paul Yow — former head chef at Barcelona — and womanned by Hae Ray, Yow’s partner and wife, whose Korean roots make their way into the restaurant’s cuisine.

Hae-Paul’s rechristening signals a maturation accompanied by beer and wine availability and “we’re finally ready for prime time” Thursday and weekend evening hours. As for its super-friendly if occasionally still overwhelmed service (an early, understaffed Natalie’s-era visit was fraught with waits and confusion), those kinks are getting worked out.

Characteristically, Hae-Paul’s excellent Bulgogi (at $11, the menu’s most expensive entry) wasn’t run-of-the-mill. Its tender, pleasantly sweet and salty, juicy beef was thicker than usual and had an uncommon hint of background heat. Completing the platter were barley rice and a medley of lively — if oily — sauteed vegetables.