Welp, I took apart my rig... Cleaned it up and did more work trying to free up the ass end.

I came to realize a few things need done to get the rear suspension to free up... and here's what you should try doing:

#1: A arms need beveled and trimmed a tiny bit. The beveling allows you to add rear toe, without rubbing. And shorten them maybe 1mm or so. You can use a flat file or a sharp exacto. It works and is necessary.

#2 the sway bar likes to bind up also. Trim the sway bar ends about 3mm and it helps tremendously. And make sure the set screws aren't tight.

#3 the rod ends are also sticky. Pop them in and out a few times, and they'll loosen up.

One other thing i noticed is standing the shocks up more (outside Hole on tower) helps the suspension to rebound better. It seems to give it more action and feel less dead.

In the front, I had my shocks in the outside hole on the A arm. This was limiting the droop quite a bit. I moved the shock to the middle hole on the Arm and if seems to have freed up the front end more and provided more droop.

Otherwise my truck feels good now. Im going to experiment with set ups in the next few weekends. So far it handles great.

One issue i had, was the rear axle dogbone crosspin. I caught it before it fell out, but it started to work loose. I pressed it back in and used some thin CA glue to help hold it. It worked so far. But I was surprised it came loose so fast.

I'm testing the Grey Front Truck springs AS91637 4.45lb and Grey Rear 2.6lb AS91641. Big thanks to Cutter for the part numbers. They hold the truck up with lots of adjustment left. Only negative so far is the rub on shock bodies. I have left them loaded with weight a couple of days to see how much they sag.

One issue i had, was the rear axle dogbone crosspin. I caught it before it fell out, but it started to work loose. I pressed it back in and used some thin CA glue to help hold it. It worked so far. But I was surprised it came loose so fast.

I missed this. Was it tight when you pressed it back in? Do you think it will hold? Might help to hammer the ball end if it does this again, and locktite that puppy.

I have replaced a few pins in e buggy and some on SCTE Tekno center shafts that refused to wear out CV end. Only remember one in question about how easy pin went in. Hammer seem to work as it lasted another year. The wheel axle CVDs seem to wear out long before the drive cup pins, so have not replaced those. Lot of force back and forth on them when on and off throttle.

One thing that has stood out on 3.0 center dog bones is noise from slack. My truck really makes some noise when going to hard brakes at full speed. The center dog bones are taking a beating. The extra play front to rear the bones have might be allowing the bone to slam front to rear when going from throttle to brake. Any thoughts on that?

I missed this. Was it tight when you pressed it back in? Do you think it will hold? Might help to hammer the ball end if it does this again, and locktite that puppy.

I have replaced a few pins in e buggy and some on SCTE Tekno center shafts that refused to wear out CV end. Only remember one in question about how easy pin went in. Hammer seem to work as it lasted another year. The wheel axle CVDs seem to wear out long before the drive cup pins, so have not replaced those. Lot of force back and forth on them when on and off throttle.

One thing that has stood out on 3.0 center dog bones is noise from slack. My truck really makes some noise when going to hard brakes at full speed. The center dog bones are taking a beating. The extra play front to rear the bones have might be allowing the bone to slam front to rear when going from throttle to brake. Any thoughts on that?

Those bones can't fit tight, you'd bend one the first time you land a jump if they were a net fit.

Welp, I took apart my rig... Cleaned it up and did more work trying to free up the ass end.

I came to realize a few things need done to get the rear suspension to free up... and here's what you should try doing:

#1: A arms need beveled and trimmed a tiny bit. The beveling allows you to add rear toe, without rubbing. And shorten them maybe 1mm or so. You can use a flat file or a sharp exacto. It works and is necessary.

#2 the sway bar likes to bind up also. Trim the sway bar ends about 3mm and it helps tremendously. And make sure the set screws aren't tight.

#3 the rod ends are also sticky. Pop them in and out a few times, and they'll loosen up.

One other thing i noticed is standing the shocks up more (outside Hole on tower) helps the suspension to rebound better. It seems to give it more action and feel less dead.

In the front, I had my shocks in the outside hole on the A arm. This was limiting the droop quite a bit. I moved the shock to the middle hole on the Arm and if seems to have freed up the front end more and provided more droop.

Otherwise my truck feels good now. Im going to experiment with set ups in the next few weekends. So far it handles great.

One issue i had, was the rear axle dogbone crosspin. I caught it before it fell out, but it started to work loose. I pressed it back in and used some thin CA glue to help hold it. It worked so far. But I was surprised it came loose so fast.

One thing I would like to mention is in regards to your front shock mounting hole in the A arm. On the SCTE 1 and 2, we pretty much ALWAYS ran the outside hole. So, on the 3.0 we made the original outside hole the middle hole and added an outside hole. So, to run where you ran the 2.0 at, you should use the middle hole in the front a arm.

What have I done? I have a 15 tooth pinion gear with stock 40 tooth spur and took it out on the road and front yard to get temp reDings and time it. Big mistake. I got 9 minutes and 22 seconds at a 202 degree temp reading. The race track I'm racing on is this Sunday and this is my first race with it. Should I go down a pinion tooth or things will be different on the small outdoor track? Thanks in advance.

I agree with you Frank. It must have some room for chassis flex. Its just noisy. Even more room on my 2.0 with same bones and it looks strange to slide the rear bone fore and aft so much, but it works good.

sykemike, run a motor fan. Gear down to 14t and run 0 timing if you have a 4 pole motor. Hope you didn't burn up that motor. They don't last long at 200+

I agree with you Frank. It must have some room for chassis flex. Its just noisy. Even more room on my 2.0 with same bones and it looks strange to slide the rear bone fore and aft so much, but it works good.

sykemike, run a motor fan. Gear down to 14t and run 0 timing if you have a 4 pole motor. Hope you didn't burn up that motor. They don't last long at 200+

Brand new Tekin RX8 esc and tekin HD 4300kv.brand new. I'm scared to run it now. I didn't like the 202 degree temp reading for my first run.