You would not have thought you could substitute greens for bacon, but samphire’s salty smack holds its own against these rich flavours. The trick is to keep the cooking fast and light to preserve the bite and texture. The duck egg is easily replaced with a hen’s but it is good if you enjoy a generous ratio of yolk to white. The black pudding should be rich and crumbly, and impossible to fry in a neat slice.

2 sausage-sized traditional black puddings

80-100g samphire

2 duck eggs

2 healthy slices of good bread, toasted

Butter

Unless you fancy your egg poached you can pull this off as a one-pan trick if the samphire is tender enough. Put a frying pan on a medium heat with a slick of oil, add the black pudding and cook gently for 10 minutes. If you’ve managed to get your hands on the good stuff then it should be bursting out of the skin by this point. Slide your puds to one side of the pan, add a dash more oil and add the fresh samphire, keeping it moving with a pair of tongs so it cooks but doesn’t catch. Crack your eggs in the same pan. When they are cooked to your liking, serve it all tumbled on hot buttered toast.