Film review: 'Butter' spreads it on thick

October 05, 2012|By Andy Klein

Jennifer Garner in "Butter." (Courtesy of Radius-TWC )

"Butter" — a frequently funny comedy from director Jim Field Smith ("Episodes") and first-time screenwriter Jason Micallef — is essentially a sports film with a layer of cultural (and, by the end, political) satire. In the tradition of that genre, it pits the sweet, utterly lovable underdog against the smug, utterly loathable alpha dog — only this time, the competition is sculpture; the medium, butter.

In the film's world, you can forget about the early presidential caucuses: Here the most important event in Iowa is the butter sculpture competition at the annual state fair. Indeed, in the real world, Iowa does appear to be this art form's hub. Bob Pickler (Ty Burrell) is the undisputed champ and the pride of his home town. We are introduced to some of his most memorable works, culminating in a replica of Leonardo's “Last Supper,” with Neil Diamond as Jesus. “Better than the original!” shouts the Des Moines Register.

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Bob has so dominated the field that the officials think it's time he step down and give someone else a chance. Being the most genial and passive of men, Bob immediately agrees, much to the fury of Laura (Jennifer Garner, who also co-produced), his shallow, grasping, manipulative — add your own damning descriptors here — wife. Feeling that the championship is her family's only point of pride, she decides to enter on her own, having picked up a lot of tips from Bob over the years.

She seems a shoo-in until the appearance of Destiny (Yara Shahidi), a completely adorable, parentless, 10-year-old moppet who arrives at the home of Ethan and Jill Emmet (Rob Corddry and Alicia Silverstone), the latest in a long list of foster parents. Apparently no one has previously noticed that Destiny has terrific artistic talents, which blossom quickly when she starts working in butter. Soon Laura is waging a vicious campaign to undermine the little girl. At the same time, Destiny receives support from Brooke (Olivia Wilde), a hooker/stripper with a grudge against Laura.