It arrives at the table steaming hot in a ceramic crock, sided by a pile of braised kale. Fork through the browned mashed potato topping to find a dark and meaty mix of wild mushrooms. The ragout includes the familiar, hefty shitakes, along with beech mushrooms, the small brown caps that grow in tight colonies and are often known as shimeji, and cauliflower mushrooms, a spongy, parasitic fungus that looks like a brain, or a head of cauliflower.

Organ-lovers can go for the haggis instead, that oatmeal porridge replete with sheeps' hearts, lungs, and liver, served with the traditional neeps (mashed rutabaga) tatties (mashed potatoes) and whiskey butter sauce.