Michelin Guide 2017: New but obsolete? At last recognition for the Ritz and Veeraswamy

The wait is over, as Michelin has once again unveiled their definitive list of extraordinary restaurants, covering more than two dozen countries and thousands of establishments.

Veeraswamy, the capital’s oldest Indian restaurant, and longstanding staple the Ritz both picked up a star for the first time, with the guide’s editor, Rebecca Burr praising their “long and illustrious histories”, as well as the all-time high standards both restaurants had exhibited in the past year. Elsewhere, The Ninth in Fitzrovia The Five Fields in Chelsea and Céleste in Knightsbridge all continued their areas’ excellent record with fine dining, picking up a star each.

Not that there wasn’t any recognition for London’s more exciting new culinary areas. Ellory and Pidgin in Hackney, and Trinity in Clapham also all received a star this year. It was a clear sign of the guide’s increasing desire to broaden its horizons. However, it has to be said that both Ellory and Pidgin have lost their chefs way before the guide was published, making these two awards obsolete.

London also earned itself no less than 15 Bib Gourmands, which are awarded for more affordable, accessible offerings. The initiative is the cornerstone of Michelin’s attempt to somewhat demystify and rebrand its approach to dining, as they seek to reestablish themselves as the definitive guide for good eating, not just a fine dining bible. Funnily enough – or sadly – one of these 15 restaurants closed in early 2015 (Newman Arms) but nevertheless has received a Bib Gourmand this year.

Outside of the capital. Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck retained its three stars after a year off the list due to its reinvention and world travels. This was no surprise, as a glowing reception for Blumenthal’s relaunched flagship reiterated the truly world class standard the chef is known for. His empire also earned a further Michelin star with their pub the Crown, in Bray too.

The Square was the biggest loser from this year’s guide in London, failing to retain either of its two stars. The decision is likely linked to the departure of Phil Howard and Nigel Platts-Martin, the restaurant’s cornerstones ever since its rise to prominence. Elsewhere, Hibiscus (closed), Brasserie Chavot (closed), Arbutus (closed), Wild Honey, Launceston Place and L’Autre Pied all lost their stars.