Exclusive: J.T. Baker’s closing, chef to Erlowest

Jason Baker, who in October 2006 opened the Capital Region restaurant most dedicated to the techniques, ingredients, flavor combinations and abstract-art platings of molecular gastronomy, is closing J.T. Baker’s. He will become chef de cuisine at The Inn at Erlowest in Lake George in March.

“We always knew it was going to be a short-lived experiment,” he says of the plans he and his wife and pastry chef, Suzanne, had for J.T. Baker’s. “We exceeded all of our expectations in so many ways, but it was time to end it.”

An ailing economy and J.T. Baker’s distance from population centers — 20 miles from downtown Saratoga Springs, 40 miles from Albany — limited business, and income has taken a sharp slide since June, Baker says, noting that while he once fed upward of 120 people per week, the figure recently could be as low as 20.

“We’re closing to move on but also as a preventative measure to keep us from falling deeply, deeply into debt. Right now if you drew a fine line between the colors of black and red, we’re right in the middle,” says Baker (above right). “We’re pulling a minimal paycheck and we don’t owe anybody, but I just didn’t have any confidence about the future with the economy the way it is.”

Upon hearing the news that Dale Miller was leaving Erlowestto open his own restaurant in Albany, Baker called Erlowest’s owners, Dave and Cheryl Kenny, to make a pitch for the job. After researching Baker, the two made their first visit to J.T. Baker’s the next night, unbeknownst to the chef.

“His food is exceptional,” Cheryl Kenny tells me. “We were excited by the food and impressed by his enthusiasm. We really wanted to have that at the inn.”

As chef de cuisine, Baker, 33, will be charged with bringing his contemporary techniques and playful, adventurous multicourse tasting menus to the inn’s restaurant, Kenny says, adding that patrons familiar with Baker’s flair can expect to see it on the plates at Erlowest. Overall supervision of the inn’s food service will be handled by Michael Hinrichs, Miller’s 26-year-old former second-in-command, who last week accepted the title of executive chef.

“I’m excited because they want me for my ideas and creativity, and they know I’m not interested in volume,” Baker says, alluding to the fact that he does not expect to be involved with cooking for the inn’s 250-seat ballroom and wedding receptions, of which 30 are already scheduled for 2009.

“We think we’ve got a great young team of enthusiastic, talented people,” says Kenny.

Baker says he’s looking forward to moving from his quirky, 40-seat restaurant in a former pizza place in a country village into a multimillion-dollar property in a mansion on the shores of Lake George (above right), where the kitchen is comparatively huge and its equipment wold-class, including a $125,000 custom-built suite of four interconnected ranges from the French manufacturer Bonnet.

Suzanne Baker is in talks with the Kennys to come aboard as Erlowest’s pastry chef, and Nick Yusavage, the sous chef at J.T. Baker’s, hopes to join the pair as well, according to both Kenny and Baker.

I think this will give Chef Baker a much larger audience to appeal to. His food is exceptional and I can only imagine that with a larger budget, it will continue to excel. When will his first day at Erlowest be? Im booking now.

I am sad to hear Chef Baker will be closing his intimate restaurant but it seems like a great move for him. We have enjoyed several amazing meals in Greenwich. It felt like dining in someone’s home. But Erlowest is a beautiful place and not too large to take away from the personal attention that Chef Baker will surely still commit to. He will certainly have a larger audience too (especially in the summer). I can’t wait to enjoy a tasting menu there next year. Best of luck Jason!

My husband and I “found” Baker’s during the Cheese Tour of Washington County; had an exceptional meal. We also went back soon thereafter as well as spread the word of our “find” to many friends who enjoy an excellent meal. We were looking forward to the 11-course tasting but we may now have to go to Lake George to have it :-). Best of luck to both Bakers.

Tripp and I are sad to see such a great place close and hope to make it for one last meal as Greenwich is much close than Lake George. Good luck to you up there as well, it is an amazing place that will only be enhanced by your culinary genious!

My family and I have had many exceptional meals at J.T. Bakers. Suzanne and Jason brought a new level of cusine to our area. Their cozy little restaurant will be sorely missed by many of us in the area. We will certainly be up to check out your new venue in LG. Best wishes in your new endevour and with your new baby from Elizabeth, Michael & Bethany.

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