It was with tremendous excitement that I discovered Gay's the Word bookshop in the early 1990s. In those days it was rare to find lesbian and gay books in mainstream shops and libraries, so seeing shelf upon unembarrassed shelf of queer books and magazines was an exhilarating experience, at once deeply emotional and thoroughly political. Simply stepping through the door felt like an act of self-affirmation.

I didn't know it then, but I had come late to the party. Gay's the Word became the UK's first gay bookshop when it was established in 1979, and it's now the only surviving one. During its life, British society has changed enormously; lesbian and gay literature has edged firmly into the mainstream. But it is still exciting to see the shop front and Gay's the Word remains a great place to visit, with welcoming, knowledgeable staff and an unparalleled range of lesbian and gay books, from the esoteric to the pulp, as well as regular literary events and discussion groups. It's in a fascinating part of town, on the edge of Bloomsbury and only a stone's throw from the British Library.

Gay's the Word has survived having its stock seized on grounds of indecency by customs officers; it has been threatened by soaring rents, unfriendly council policies, and the rise of internet selling. Recently its front window was smashed in a homophobic attack. But it remains very dear to its customers, and much valued by its local community. It represents an important piece of London history, as well as of modern lesbian and gay life. It is mainly, however, a thriving contemporary bookshop and it always repays a visit.

Sarah Waters's latest book is The Little Stranger, published by Virago