I would forgo the shortage of funds and get the right pair of shoes, otherwise your climbing will suffer.

The length of time that your shoes lasts depends on you. If your footwork is good and you don't go scraping (think wheel spinning) your shoes around then they will last longer.There is also quite a big difference between Sport and bouldering shoes.

For me the most important thing in a pair of climbing shoes is comfort. Everyone's feet are different and all shoes are different - start trying on different shoes and see what fits

anazasi's are twice the shoes flashes are imho. and that's why pay twice the price flashes are great value for money though; mad rock & evolvs are priced better in general than fiveten and la sportiva.a couple of budddies swear by evolv pontas as the best trad & sport shoe. they fit my feet badly so i run anazs now and is really happy. and if you win the lotto you can't go wrong with muira's.

My bet would be the new Boreal Falcons, @ R995 : which is +-R200 cheaper than the new Evolv Talons. And quite a bit better priced than the top lasportiva or new edelrids. If you needed a more all round shoe go for the Boreal Joker @ R890. And then again have better rubber / friction and a better inner, also really nice to have a leather upper on summers day when you sweating buckets! Hard routes done in these shoes : Mark Efune aka Flex Redpointed Stormwatch 31.

Any other pair If you had the choice would be scarpa, but then they are pricy.

By the way we have boreal, and other brands at our store Camp and Climb, Retreat. Shop 2, block 2 Opposite builders warehouse.

The Evolv Predator is a very aggressive downturn toe shoe suited to steep climbing or bouldering.

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Coincidentally the new G2 (2nd generation) just won Editors Choice in the the latest issue of climbing magazine. http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/2010_shoe_review/Comparing the Evolv Predator to the 5.10 Anasazi or the Mad Rock Flash is like comparing a Ferrari to a Honda SUV to a CitiGOLF. Yes they all get you from point A to B, but....And yes I agree fit and comfort are most important especially if you have one pair of shoes that you use for both sport and trad climbing.-Robert

Last edited by emile on Thu Sep 09, 2010 1:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Andy, ignore the shills (RobertBreyer and 100dgrs) - they are intent on selling you the shoes they stock for their benefit and not yours. And take what they say with a pinch of salt - I've never, ever been satisfied with a pair of Evolvs or Boreals and I've tried both.

My recommendation: try on a whole bunch of shoes within your budget. Buy the one that fits and feels best. Don't believe the hype.

Andy, go for what ever is comfortable for your feet and your pocket. If you have talent you should manage to climb decent grades in just about any shoe.

BTW Justin, I thought that advertising product and price by companies is banned from the forum but I see the City Rock and Camp & Climb and managing to do so. If this is the case, maybe I should start advertising as well with our new <snip> ???

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Just a thought...cheers

Last edited by emile on Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.

I always used to climb with LaSportiva Miuras and Cobras (both sport & trad). I still think they fit my feet the best, but since they havent had my size (37) in the country for a long while and at that stage I was desperate for shoes, I settled for a pair of Pontas (I figured if they're good enough for Chris Sharma...)now I'm climbing better than ever! I have also found they have better gripIn the end... Firstly, go for shoes that suit your foot shapeSecondly, it's NOT the shoes - it's the CLIMBERand finally, try on all the shoes you can get hold of in your size, and choose the pair that you're most comfortable with

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