Description

This route starts up the gully several feet right of Ninny's Revenge. The crack runs to the right of another route (Pops Goes Hawaiian) with a single-bolt on the left face of the gully. The Chief is a fun route with good placements for pro and comfy stances for feet.

It is possible to rap from the top of Tender Flakes of Wrath (127 in Vogel's guide) or the route that runs up the center face, about straight up from the pine tree next to the northwest face.

great route for the grade. Good begining leader route and fun solo for we unleashed sorts. Took a friend out for his second trad lead and he cruised it. Protects well with almost all types of gear. Good rock, good area, away from crowds, near other good climbs, recommended. Pro for anchos so don't sew it up with your goods needed to bring up your second.

There are two options to top-out: to the right bypassing the "summit" block (easy) and going slightly left on the top of the "summit" block following the crack (one 5.7 move). #3 + #2 C4 for the natural gear anchor.

The convenience bolt/anchors have been chopped, I agree with the multipple statements about it being a great lead for beginners. You can stitch it up with ample feet and jugs/crack for security. Lots of great movement, not boring for a short climb. Bring a couple 3&4 camalots for the flaring pro at the top.

Beautiful and aesthetic climb! Great movement, good placements, and one of the more "secure" 5.5's you'll find in J-tree. Solid for the grade by other places standards, easy for a J-tree 5.5. I had tons of fun on this route!

Great lead for a beginner! This was my second lead after a long hiatus from climbing and, while I did get nervous on one move, it was a pretty chill climb with jugs and great stances. This climb eats gear so I took advantage of the great stances and sewed it up because I had plenty of gear with me so why the heck not.

I used a #2, #3 and #3.5 for the anchor. As others mentioned, the belay bolts are no longer there and are completely unnecessary - I'm glad someone chopped them.

BETA ALERT: There is really only one move on this climb, which is coming out of the "pod" at the top. Don't be a wimp and cheat and go out right before this or you'll miss the best part. Place a good piece of pro, trust your feet, and go for it!