Looks nice. But wouldn't the motherboard flex too much in the middle when you plugin/unplug pcie extenders, for example. I might like to see more support for the motherboard middle (like plywood, that might ruin the look though), but if you're careful maybe wont be an issue.

it's copyright, there won't be any copying unless you pay me fees. jk. copy all u want, i'm interested to see what variation you come up with. what did you plan to change from the design? be sure to post pics when you have them!

Just had my Big Band Marshal arrive so i'll be doing something similar to this

that's crazy, you bought a $400 motherboard for this? it would have been cheaper (including other components like CPU, PSU, etc) if you got 2 separate rigs instead of this one 8-slot motherboard setup.

and just a heads if when you build something like this, you won't be able to fit all 8 GPUs on top when using a standard 17cm riser/extension cable. it's not long enough to reach the two cards and the ends if you leave a slot for cooling between each card. you'll need to break it down to 6-7 cards on top and 1-2 cards on bottom, unless you connect two extension cables together to make them longer.

Looks nice. But wouldn't the motherboard flex too much in the middle when you plugin/unplug pcie extenders, for example. I might like to see more support for the motherboard middle (like plywood, that might ruin the look though), but if you're careful maybe wont be an issue.

nope, doesn't flex too much. it might be a problem if the video cards are directly on the motherboard and weighing it down, but since i'm using extension cables, they hardly weigh anything. the CPU cooler weighs the most, but i'm not using a huge tower cooler or anything. there's nothing else on the motherboard to push it down, so flex won't be a problem. haha it doesn't take hercules to plug in the extension cables, so that won't be a problem either

ps- this forum needs a multi-quote button. i just had to manually quote everyone in this one post

it's copyright, there won't be any copying unless you pay me fees. jk. copy all u want, i'm interested to see what variation you come up with. what did you plan to change from the design? be sure to post pics when you have them!

Sure

I want to make it suitable for 2 motherboards in line and up to 12 gfx cards, so just longer (aproxx. 1- 1.2m lenght), with a closed bottom (another L shaped alu bar at the bottom back for stability) and a bottom plexiglass plate where the psu's can rest on. all this will make a stable skeleton structure where i will build a simple encasing around (probably made of cheap wood) with included fans for proper air exchange to put it on my balcony (also my balcony has good weather protection, the casing still must be wind and rain proof)

that's crazy, you bought a $400 motherboard for this? it would have been cheaper (including other components like CPU, PSU, etc) if you got 2 separate rigs instead of this one 8-slot motherboard setup.

and just a heads if when you build something like this, you won't be able to fit all 8 GPUs on top when using a standard 17cm riser/extension cable. it's not long enough to reach the two cards and the ends if you leave a slot for cooling between each card. you'll need to break it down to 6-7 cards on top and 1-2 cards on bottom, unless you connect two extension cables together to make them longer.

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I totalled up all the costs and it's not actually that much dearer in total, it is more expensive but for the amount i'd save i'd rather have it all in one system and not have to spend an entire day building a rack lol.

I have some spare riser cables so i can fit 8 cards on the top length with an inch between each

the top bar is tapped with threads to fit the regular computer screws. this is to secure down the cards from moving around. i just measured and drilled holes into the bars, then just used the actual screws to make the threads directly into the aluminum. this freakin took like 2 hours

here's what i used as motherboard standoffs to raise the motherboard from the aluminum frame. drilled a hole in the frame, then put a long screw from the bottom up. a washer and nut was put on top to secure the screw, and also act to raise the motherboard up.

the excess end of the screw sticking up through the motherboard holes prevents the motherboard from moving around.

pic is a little blurry, but it's just to show that an optional nut can be added on top of everything to bolt down the motherboard. i won't be adding this extra nut in the final build since the screw is long enough

here's a random nice little froggy in my back yard watching me when i was building this rack

so i ran into a couple problems when doing this build, and i'll post that next time i have pics up

1) stock CPU cooler is too tall. i originally used a socket 775 board with the stock cooler to do all my measurements, and the height i cut the rack into was a perfect fit. however, i didn't realize that a stock s1366 cooler was considerably taller. The pci-e extension cables didn't have enough clearance because the cooler blocks it.

2) the bar that holds up the rear end of the GPUs were about 6 millimeters short because the little PCB "hook" towards the end of the pci-e pins of the video card, got in the way of this bar.

here you can see how the video card's pci-e pins are very close to the cooler, and this is not enough room to plug in the extension cables. these cables take up a few centimeters of space below the video card's pins.

solution: i bought a 1U low profile s1366 cooler. it just came in, here's what it looks like installed on the motherboard.

ahh, perfect...

now the second problem, the bar holding the video card is too close, so the video doesn't have enough clearance to be mounted properly. solution: i drilled out rivets on both sides, made 2 new holes to move two bars back about 6mm, which is just enough clearance.

small request, can you please edit out your post to take out the quotes? quoting all the pictures like this to just reply with a small phrase takes up forum space, especially when i already posted all of that right on top of your post

and to answer your question, it's a rosewill or dynatron 1U low profile cooler, designed for servers. this thing sounds like a jet engine...

started the work today, this will offer room for 2 mainboards and up to 12 gfx-cards. now I will start to drill the holes for the rivets.

first pictures:

overview to get the idea. the metal bars are 25x25x1.5mm L bars made of aluminium, each had a lenght of 200cm.for the Proxxon (http://www.proxxon.com/eng/html/28481.php , http://www.proxxon.com/eng/html/28606.php better than a Dremel) I do have metal cutting discs, but without a proper working bench it was easier to simply use the strong metal saw.I use two types of steel rivets for double and triple layer aluminium.

closeup of some tools

closeup of the Proxxon. I use a 3mm metal drill to drill the holes for the screws like for the gfx-card holder and the mainboard holder, and a 3.1mm drill for the 3mm steel rivets. 5000 rpm. standard M3 screws (like the one from a regular Computer Case, the ones used to screw the PCI-E cards onto the case) can perfectly cut into the 3mm aluminium holes.

started the work today, this will offer room for 2 mainboards and up to 12 gfx-cards. now I will start to drill the holes for the rivets.

first pictures:[*pic*]overview to get the idea. the metal bars are 25x25x1.5mm L bars made of aluminium, each had a lenght of 200cm.for the Proxxon (http://www.proxxon.com/eng/html/28481.php , http://www.proxxon.com/eng/html/28606.php better than a Dremel) I do have metal cutting discs, but without a proper working bench it was easier to simply use the strong metal saw.I use two types of steel rivets for double and triple layer aluminium.

[*picture*]closeup of some tools

[*picture*]closeup of the Proxxon. I use a 3mm metal drill to drill the holes for the screws like for the gfx-card holder and the mainboard holder, and a 3.1mm drill for the 3mm steel rivets. 5000 rpm. standard M3 screws (like the one from a regular Computer Case, the ones used to screw the PCI-E cards onto the case) can perfectly cut into the 3mm aluminium holes.

[*picture*]closeup of the Gfx-Card holder. perfect fit!

looks like very clean cuts and drilled holes! i wish i had that thingy that holds the dremel/proxxon, it would have made drilling the rivet holes and screw threads so much easier. i did it by free-hand with a dremel, which was a pain in the arse. how is a proxxon better than a dremel?

looks like very clean cuts and drilled holes! i wish i had that thingy that holds the dremel/proxxon, it would have made drilling the rivet holes and screw threads so much easier. i did it by free-hand with a dremel, which was a pain in the arse. how is a proxxon better than a dremel?

waiting to see how yours turns out as well....

thanks! also i had to do some free-hand work, too, but i found a way to handle the drill. the Proxxon has a better build quality than the dremel and is usually used in the industry in germany.now I know at least that it is best to first drill all holes and then rivet it together, instead of not being able to get into the corner after you nailed them ^^

here are more pics, as you can see it's not all that clean cut and not all angles are 90° - but this is my first piece of metalwork, i think it works out.

to do: drilling the holes for the motherboard-screws, getting a wooden or plexiglass bottom where the psu's can rest on, build a cover of wood or plexiglass with fans to put the whole thing outside on my balcony ^^

thanks! also i had to do some free-hand work, too, but i found a way to handle the drill. the Proxxon has a better build quality than the dremel and is usually used in the industry in germany.now I know at least that it is best to first drill all holes and then rivet it together, instead of not being able to get into the corner after you nailed them ^^

here are more pics, as you can see it's not all that clean cut and not all angles are 90° - but this is my first piece of metalwork, i think it works out.

it looks like a really stretched version of mine haha. i had plan everything out first, then drilled all rivet holes before i put anything together, because after the pieces are together, it'll be harder to drill. i can see some of your holes are not perfectly lined up , i had that problem on a few of my holes as well