The All Day Addiction-- two eggs, tri angle hash browns, canadian bacon, avocado, mixed greens, balsamic drizzle and basil pesto sitting on the counter at Jax Truckee diner in Truckee, Calif., on Friday, October 14, 2011.

Lake Tahoe has long been known for its hearty comfort food, perfect for fueling sports-minded bodies, and its affordable steaks and buffets at its many Nevada-side casinos. But in recent years notable, chef-driven restaurants have set up shop.

The North Shore, especially, has enjoyed significant growth. Even the more kickback South Shore, with its high-rise casino hotels pulsing in round-the-clock gambling action, has upped its dining game.

Stella Restaurant at Cedar House

Chef Jacob Burton got his culinary start at La Folie in San Francisco. Reservations are required for eclectic meals emphasizing fresh produce from the hotel's garden and signatures from the wood-fired oven, in styles traversing California, French, Latin American and Asian.

You order at the counter at this crazy-quilt colorful eatery blooming with bright landscape paintings, parrot sculptures, mural-topped communal tables and bouncy Mexican music, but that doesn't mean fast food. Even a simple taco can take 10 minutes for the cooks to assemble to-order, though it's worth the wait for this $1.50 feast of 10 filling choices including al pastor, chorizo or beef cheek.

This funky place next to the downtown railroad tracks opened in 2009 as a reinvention of the longtime Andy's Truckee Diner, yet its space is original 1940s diner inside and out. Owner Bud Haley wows with an enormous menu and enormous portions. The first hint is the enormous slabs of chocolate cake displayed behind the counter; the second is a breakfast of hand-breaded, Southern fried sirloin steak and eggs. Full pound burgers are lunch and dinner favorites.

1850 Village South Road (in The Village at Squaw Valley), Olympic Valley; (530) 584-6190 or soupagood.com. Lunch daily. Main courses, $3.50-$10.

Graham's at Squaw Valley

This rustic wood-shingle building was constructed as Squaw Valley's first residence more than 50 years ago. The short menu focuses mainly on quietly satisfying if pricey classics like baked Blue Point oysters, port-glazed foie gras, lamb chops in mint demi-glace, and petrale sole in lemon-white wine-caper-butter sauce. Definitely get wine, from a list of some 800 bottles.

This often boisterous spot from chef-owner Elsa Corrigan is popular for happy hour, with its entryway sushi bar, big screen TVs, powerful soju cocktails and extensive sake selection. Yet less rowdy diners can find good times, too, in the airy dining room with its cradling banquettes or on the semi-private patio.

1850 Village South Road (in The Village at Squaw Valley), Olympic Valley; (530) 584-0110 or mamasake.com. Lunch and dinner daily. Main courses (mostly all sushi and small plates). $8-$16.50.

Evergreen

Chef-owner David Lutz calls his cooking Casual American, but that's a wee bit humble for his Slow Food approach, with prime ingredients like Point Reyes blue cheese, Sonoma chicken and ambitious wines. Bring the kids for a hot dog and fries, while grownups will be pleased with the wood-grilled salmon burger.

Lest any of us somehow forget that Tahoe cradles the largest alpine lake in North America, the back deck of this gem perches 100 feet above the shoreline on an elevated embankment for panoramic views. New ownership last year brought in chef Andrew Shimer (Jardinière, Boulevard and Aqua) and a revitalized menu of seasonally driven, Cal-Med dishes. A recent dinner showcased pan-roasted gnocchi stuffed with duck confit.

Oh, it was a happy night when I went looking for an ATM and instead came across this jewel in Christmas Tree Village. Opened in May, it's a rainbow of Vietnamese, Chinese and Sri Lankan cuisine from chef-owner Indu Herath. There are hot pot burners at the beer and wine bar. The food is superb, blossoming with bright, layered seasonings and sparkling fresh meats and vegetables, whether it's a simple, pepper-packed kung pao chicken or Sri Lankan beef curry. Nine types of pho include tripe and fat brisket.

Since 1985, this log cabin has been a popular haunt for diners seeking continental-Mediterranean favorites, sparked here and there with flavors of Asia and even a nightly four-course bargain meal featuring soup and a scoop of ice cream with a cookie.

The posh evening can start with a private booth draped with curtains, and end with complimentary chocolate-covered strawberries plated over dry ice. This AAA Four Diamond restaurant has the setting and service details down pat, and does a fine job with steak-house cuisine too.

Locals and tourists alike enjoy the waterfront views, weekend live music and notoriously stiff cocktails. The kitchen of this longtime favorite does a very satisfying job with staples like fried calamari, steamed clams in garlic-wine butter, and honey-whisky baby-back ribs.