1992-1999Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and
common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres
Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

I tested the relay for the blower motor (the one you're holding in the writeup). This one, unlike in the aforementioned relay test write-up, is a four-pin relay that is normally open. It'* also in a little plastic case to make installation easy, deinstallation tricky (there'* a tab on the top), and testing a bit of a pain, unless you have four hands. (I do not.)Attachment 1616

First, if you peer inside, there are numbers next to the pins. Now take a look at the schematic on the top of the relay. It will look like the one in Danthurs' writeup, but different. You can see the control circuit on pins 85 and 86, diodeless, and the current flows through pins 30 and 87:Attachment 1615

Set your voltmeter to 200Ω, and touch pins 30 and 87. This relay should show infinity, as it is open when the control circuit is low.

Take a fresh 9V battery, and wire it up to pins 85 and 86. (As it'* diodeless, you can hook it up in either direction. I did, just to make sure.) You should hear a click. Now, if pins 30 and 87 read close to 0Ω, your relay is good. Put it back in the car.

Guess I'm replacing the blower motor. I know I'm not going another New England winter without a defroster. Scraping ice off of the inside of my windshield is not how I'd like to spend the next four months.

Colin... that diagnosis sounds familiar. When we tested your blower motor connector and saw 12V+ on all blower speeds, that was essentially the same test. The only one we didn't do was check for the correct amperage at the connector.