Thats the plan. Probably add a nice trigger too. All I need is the scope mount. That is up in the air for 1 or 2 piece and railed or not.

Depends, do you plan on taking the scope off? If yes, then get one with a QD set up. Most of them will hold their zero if replaced and tightened back down in the same place. If no, then just stick with some good rings, and continue on with the happiness.

Keep an eye on the clearance section of places like Brownells and MidwayUSA. You can get the stripped uppers and lowers from Aero for just over $100 (as opposed to $100.xx for just the upper like you posted), a LPK for $25 and the buttstock kit for $45. So like it was mentioned before, one piece at a time is a good way to go as well.

I will throw in my real world experience with the Wylde chambering. The scary black rifle in the picture is an 18" barreled .223 Wylde. You can shoot 223 and 5.56 out of a Wylde barrel. The difference between the Wylde and other barrels is that the chamber in the Wylde barrel is slightly tighter than a 5.56 barrel, and the lands are closer to the chamber by 1/100 of an inch which allows the round to engage the rifling once the round is chambered instead of having to jump in other barrels when the round is fired. The standard m4 barrels are not chambered as tightly and have the lands as close in order to allow the rapid fire of a three shot burst or full auto. .223 Wylde is a fantastic chambering if you are looking for 200-300 yard gun. Much past that and you need a heavier larger caliber like .308.

The .223 Wylde gun is my mid range gun, while my Ruger GSR is my long range and my other 16" AR is my close quarters gun. And no the pink camp isn't my close range gun, that is my wife's newest gun.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Logged

Timid men prefer the calm of despotism to the tempestuous sea of liberty.Thomas Jefferson

I'll be the contrarian. I love my BAD levers but you have to train with them to get the most out of them. Unless you are training hard to defend and use the weapon system to its maximum effectiveness it's probably a waste. It saves about 1-2 seconds max when you are clearing malfunctions or during bolt locked mag changes.

And unless you are training with a team, you would usually transition to a secondary weapon in a firefight when a malfunction occurs.

« Last Edit: December 04, 2015, 06:34:04 PM by TexasRedNeck »

Logged

Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

I'll be the contrarian. I love my BAD levers but you have to train with them to get the most out of them. Unless you are training hard to defend and use the weapon system to its maximum effectiveness it's probably a waste. It saves about 1-2 seconds max when you are clearing malfunctions or during bolt locked mag changes.

And unless you are training with a team, you would usually transition to a secondary weapon in a firefight when a malfunction occurs.

True, but it's also not difficult to hit the bolt release with the heel of your hand after inserting a magazine when your hand is enroute back to the firing position on the hand guard. But either way you go as long as you train on it, and it works for you then more power to ya.

The barrel didn't seem to much heavier in weight when I held it in my hand and if you look at similar barrels it only a fraction more. The bad lever seemed handy on the three ARs I played with today's date it's kinda fancy pants part for cheap. And if all else I can remove it if I don't like it.

The barrel didn't seem to much heavier in weight when I held it in my hand

Remember you're also planning on adding hand guards (though they are generally light) and didn't you mention a light and a gas block and front sight. It's all going to change the balance and weight. But again that's the beauty of the AR platforms. Change them up and make them yours.

I have a budy who has built and sold a few. ( I called him when the wife gave me the go ahead ) we sat down tonight and ordered parts and played with his three, has a 308 platform, a super light 223 with all the really light parts. It was nice but the price tag wasn't my size he has a SBR with a few uppers built to interchange a few things. It seven inches plus a eight inch suppressor too

I do need to find a muzzle brake for that barrel. Everything is smaller diameter and I think would look funny. I do have a in with sincerco but he says the employe store is empty due to holiday season

I have a budy who has built and sold a few. ( I called him when the wife gave me the go ahead ) we sat down tonight and ordered parts and played with his three, has a 308 platform, a super light 223 with all the really light parts. It was nice but the price tag wasn't my size he has a SBR with a few uppers built to interchange a few things. It seven inches plus a eight inch suppressor too

I do need to find a muzzle brake for that barrel. Everything is smaller diameter and I think would look funny. I do have a in with sincerco but he says the employe store is empty due to holiday season

The 80% lowers are kind of a fun idea. But I had a better idea. Have grandma go to the gun store and buy a lower or two and when she leaves this great world we can say we don't know what she did with them. :)

FYI, you can build a firearm from an 80% frame, but it can never be sold or transferred legally.

There is a lot of argument over that. I ain't here to do that with you so please don't think that. The confusion comes from the wording in the ATF paperwork on these guns. You can't build one with the intention of selling it. That's certain. It states that if it is sold it "should" be serial numbered documented as a firearm. Should ain't a certain word. Ever guideline that is an a solute uses "must". I would never sell one I completed so I never dug further into it. I don't think it's forbidden though if you go by the wording. If I can find it I will post a link.

Used to be in WA too, not anymore. There was a flurry of activity in WA right before our mandatory backgrounds went into effect on all private transfers (I-594). I sold my 1911, matching P238, and a savage 308 to guys who were willing to pay to not have them on the books. I still demanded to see ID and CPL for my CYA before I'd sell.

I don't have any experience with it. I'm a fan of anodizing and then a rattle can camo job.

But since its your first you might want to make it purdy. I remember my first one....then taking a carbine class and getting a scratch on it....by the second class I was thowing it in the mud and rolling around in the gravel with it....

Gave it character.

Logged

Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.