Conduit over a rain gutter

My inverter is to be installed about 6 feet below the array, under the eve. Does the NEC allow conduit to run over the edge of the roof and rain gutter, back under the eve, and down to the inverter? Alternatively, I could punch through the roof and come out the bottom of the eve and straight down to the inverter, but I don't much like the idea of penetrations in my roof, especially down low. The inverter will be installed about 6 feet left of the meter. Gutter isn't installed yet. How would you guys do it?

Comments

From an aesthetic standpoint going through the roof straight down to the inverter would be best. Using Tek cable or seal tight condiut should not violate any rules if properly supported, but would look like an afterthought, my opinion only.

The method I would use, would be to run 1" EMT from the inverter through the roof with a water proof connector screwed into a LB or LR conduit body, then transition to a Sealtite flexible conduit like this http://flexiblewiringconduits.anacondasealtite.com/viewitems/sealtite-ul/peratures-liquid-tight-flexible-metal-conduit-lfmc then to a weather proof 4" square junction where all panel feeders enter with weather proof gland fittings, running PV cable all the way to the combiner to avoid splices. This would maintain a low profile, where the conduit penitrates the roof, a generous amount of urethane sealant applied to keep the water out. Rationale behind the transition is EMT looks better on the outside wall, the flexible conduit could be used all the way but not as good looking, or EMT could be used to the 4×4 JB, but it's easier to strap the flexible conduit to the mounting rack. Just some ideas

I'm warming up to the idea. Thank you. Couple other questions then....Any issue bringing the liquid-tite through the roof directly into the back of the 4x4 box (to allow more surface for sealing the penetration)? 1" liquid-tite for 4 #10's plus ground? Bring the ground through one of the 4 glands or should it have its own?

+1, mcgivor, All good suggestions. New standing seam roof. I would thoroughly clean the surface before applying sealant to ensure a good permanent bond. You never know what residue could be on the surface from the mfg. process.

I'm warming up to the idea. Thank you. Couple other questions then....Any issue bringing the liquid-tite through the roof directly into the back of the 4x4 box (to allow more surface for sealing the penetration)? 1" liquid-tite for 4 #10's plus ground? Bring the ground through one of the 4 glands or should it have its own?

Gland fittings don't work with two conductors go separate, ridged material is usually easier to seal than flexible as well as a small penetration is less likely to create issues, just my opinion. Yes cleaning before sealing is always a good thing to do.

I would not go through the roof as a first choice.If compelled to go through the roof, I would not rely on sealant to keep water out.Sealant cannot stay sealed to a roof shingle or plywood for very long.Purchase a roof penetration designed for the job, many types are available.Google PV roof penetration.

This is a steel roof. I have a very hard time finding roof penetration products for a steel roof that dont rely solely on a sealant to keep the water out. Had the same trouble with my plumbing vents. Those I could at lest keep right near the ridge. This one is at the eve. I'm leaning back toward going over the gutter and I ne'er the eve, with 1" liquid tight conduit.

Where are your solar panels going .... could you do your penetration at ridge . Run inside roof cavity , into garage and conduit down inside , then punch through from inside to outside at appropriate position ?

Yes I could, but it would not be a very easy run. I should have planned better when building the house, and run the wires early in the project. I don't think I'll go through all the trouble now that I am this far along.