I am very interested in using this for the top on my router cabinet. However I am wondering about face gluing this material. To make the top as per plan, I need to glue one piece of 3/4” ply (the phenolic ply) to a 1/2” sheet. I am wondering how well this is going to work.

I have been thinking of a couple of different approaches:

1) Scuff the glue side and using TB III

2) Contact Cement (aka like a laminate on to MDF)

Will either of these approaches work, or are there any other suggestions?

Thanks!

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

If I understand Karson correctly, you have to sand off the phenolic ply in order to glue it..but then I wonder, why use phenolic ply in the first place? I made my top using 3/4” ply + 1/4” hardboard, edge laminated with oak and then laminated plastic ( formica) top and bottom using contact cement. This was from the Woodsmith plan and I’ve had no regrets

When I made my router top ,I wanted a thick one quite big,so I glued some mdf together screwing them in all directions through the top til the glue dried then removed the scrwews this is better than any clamps then went over the top and bottom with melamine which I cur slightly oversize then routed the edges worked greaqt.Alistair

I use a lot of phenolic to make molds for poured stone. We use Gorilla glue any time we have to face glue to it. I rough it up with 60 grit & screw thru both pieces from the back side. Nothing else will bond phenolic ply together. Epoxy & every other glue we’ve tried will right peel off. Thats why I use a chunk of phenolic under all my glue ups. Slide an old chisel along the surface & any glue slides right off. I’ve used the same piece of phenolic 50-60 times for glue ups & still used it to make a new mold. If you can’t screw from the backside, sand off the phenolic coating & use any glue you would on “normal” plywood.