This dazzling contemporary Japanese restaurant flouts the maxim that imports don't do well here. An offshoot of chef Tyson Cole's Austin mini-empire, the Michael Hsu-designed room has a moody glamor. And the kitchen, under the gifted Kaz Edwards, produces such vivid, intricate dishes that it's easy to forget how well-knit the entire operation is. The service is engaged and informed. The drinks program, from wine to beer to sake, jibes neatly with the menu. No wonder that it's hard to book and that the line forms before the doors open every day.