The F800GS is too tall for me to take OFF the center stand the way I would on my Yamaha FZ6 (i.e. sit on it and scootch forward). I need to grab the rear luggage hand and the handlebar, put down the side stand and push it off the center stand. ALways freaks me out a little, though if it "falls" it's going to land on the side-stand and not dall.

I'm not sure what you mean by "pressure" in the front brake, but the cap on the reservoir doesn't affect it. Assuming you're talking about the cap on the reservoir on the handlebars. That cap just keeps the fluid from spilling out, the reservoir itself isn't pressurized.

Perhaps you mean the brakes are feeling "spongy"? That's usually a sign of air in the brake lines, but as long as you bled them properly when you changed the fluid, that shouldn't be happening.

Brakes (especially the front) aren't something to leave to chance. It sounds to me like the best bet is to have your dealer take a look. Or at least someone who's more versed in braking systems.

If this is an ABS-equipted bike there are two bleed screws - on on the caliper and one on the master cylinder.
It is sometimes difficult to get all the air out of the system.

Some folks have reported that tying the front brake lever in overnight helps
(tying it in the position it is in when you apply the brakes)

Thanks for the advice. After bleeding the brake fluid, through the two on the calipers, the brakes were strong and the lever firm. Now, spongy again. So that implies air is getting in somewhere, right?

I'm not sure what you mean by "pressure" in the front brake, but the cap on the reservoir doesn't affect it. Assuming you're talking about the cap on the reservoir on the handlebars. That cap just keeps the fluid from spilling out, the reservoir itself isn't pressurized.

Perhaps you mean the brakes are feeling "spongy"? That's usually a sign of air in the brake lines, but as long as you bled them properly when you changed the fluid, that shouldn't be happening.

Brakes (especially the front) aren't something to leave to chance. It sounds to me like the best bet is to have your dealer take a look. Or at least someone who's more versed in braking systems.

Shouldn't be happening, but is. Perhaps my bleed screws aren't tight enough? I didn't want to pound on 'em too hard. I'll flush it again and see what happens. The bleed screw, the baby one, by the reservoir won't open on my bike - damaged.

Shouldn't be happening, but is. Perhaps my bleed screws aren't tight enough? I didn't want to pound on 'em too hard. I'll flush it again and see what happens. The bleed screw, the baby one, by the reservoir won't open on my bike - damaged.

It's possible that's the problem. There may be air trapped there that won't bleed out through the nipple on the caliper. Though it seems curious then that it gets better when you bleed the brakes then worse again.

It's possible that's the problem. There may be air trapped there that won't bleed out through the nipple on the caliper. Though it seems curious then that it gets better when you bleed the brakes then worse again.

+1 I think ...
If BMW didn't think that extra bleed screw was needed they would not have put it there...

I've not seen a "twin" that without ABS installed,
but on at least other BMWs the non-ABS bikes do NOT have a bleed screw on the master cylinder ...
just the one on the caliper ......... so there is something going on there ...

Otherwise you might need to take the master cylinder off and get it to a machine shop?
A good shop should be able to remove the busted bleed screw.
If you decide to go that route I'd buy/take a new bleed screw with you that way the machinist will have the dimensions of the replacement part which may help him/her select the most correct EZ-out or whatever their tool of choice would be...

+1 I think ...
If BMW didn't think that extra bleed screw was needed they would not have put it there...

I've not seen a "twin" that without ABS installed,
but on at least other BMWs the non-ABS bikes do NOT have a bleed screw on the master cylinder ...
just the one on the caliper ......... so there is something going on there ...

Otherwise you might need to take the master cylinder off and get it to a machine shop?
A good shop should be able to remove the busted bleed screw.
If you decide to go that route I'd buy/take a new bleed screw with you that way the machinist will have the dimensions of the replacement part which may help him/her select the most correct EZ-out or whatever their tool of choice would be...

Guess what: I zip-tied the lever overnight as you suggested, and the brakes are back to normal. But, a big butt, they are quickly getting diluted, spongy and weak again. So air is getting in somewhere, correct? And by zip-tying it, it expunges that air. Let me know how to proceed. Cannot take it to a dealer; not for a month or so, at least. Thanks all.

To JRWooden: Going to Westwood now, on the GS. Playing tennis at the stadium courts.

Guess what: I zip-tied the lever overnight as you suggested, and the brakes are back to normal. But, a big butt, they are quickly getting diluted, spongy and weak again. So air is getting in somewhere, correct? And by zip-tying it, it expunges that air. Let me know how to proceed. Cannot take it to a dealer; not for a month or so, at least. Thanks all.

To JRWooden: Going to Westwood now, on the GS. Playing tennis at the stadium courts.