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Description

Extremely continuous and demanding climbing up an orange, overhanging corner. The first completely trad 5.13 in the Adirondacks. A classic if you can climb at this grade. Though I have neither the skills nor the cojones to climb this route, it appears nearly featureless above the small ledge 15' from the start. It is one of those routes that gains its high grade not from steepness, but from the fact that it is climbed almost entirely by slapping and smearing on an overhanging corner. A real test.

Location

Start from the ledge below Bon Chance.

Protection

RPs, small TCUs. "The most important piece of equipment leading to success was a soccer shin pad to protect the right shin when the critical foot came off the crux."-Adirondack Rock

Hey Jim, How are you? (Frank Minunni here) In ref to the first trad 13 in the Daks. Primal Scream at Mosher Rd. is 13a, all trad. Was done around 95 I would say. Took a bunch of 40 footers onto a number 5 stopper before unlocking it. Predates HOC by at least 7 years. Not sure if Mosher is considered Daks but we figured anything north of Albany.
May 18, 2013