Carlos’s house is in the most dangerous part of El Salvador – a neighborhood called Los Santos 1, Soyapango, San Salvador. When we went in 1999, I didn’t feel any fear at all even though there was gang graffiti on the neighbor’s wall across the street, broken glass bottles and barbed-wire protecting people’s rooftops, and an abandoned bus in the street. Maybe I was so overwhelmed by everything that it left no room in my body for fear – I don’t know – but I’m certain that I didn’t feel in danger and that I wasn’t afraid of the people. We rode the buses, our gold wedding bands on our fingers, we walked the streets – even at night! And with a baby! No one threatened us, or robbed us, no one looked at us with bad intentions – on the contrary – Everyone greeted us with the traditional Salvadoran, “Buenas.”

But this time as we return to El Salvador, I feel a little bit of fear. Perhaps it’s because I’m older, wiser, more careful… less invincible. Maybe it’s because I know more Salvadorans now and they’re all telling me the same thing, “Soyapango? Be careful, hermana.”

The other day at the store, I was looking for a small, discreet bag to carry my camara while in El Salvador.

“And this one?” I said, showing Suegra a black bag that looked like nothing special and was so small it fit inside my hand.

“What is it for? responded Suegra.

“For my camara, when I go on the bus.”

Suegra inhaled sharply, “And you’re going to take your camera on the bus?!”

“Ha! They’ll stab you to take that little bag from you, nana. You don’t believe it. They’re brutes.” She jabbed her hand in her side for emphasis.

And there it is – fear. I responded to Suegra that if someone messed with me, they’d get a taste of my fist. It’s been many years since I’ve practiced martial arts, but I still have the instinct to fight rather than run away – yet this doesn’t necessarily mean that I’m full of nothing but courage.

Amigo, incluso en los lugares más peligrosos, todavía hay favor por ellos que tienen cuidado. Estoy seguro que todo va a estar bien! I’ve lived in some very dangerous cities that most would avoid and as long as you know the rules set down by the natives, you’ll likely be ok. Just practice caution and walk tall. Also, don’t forget to have fun and take lots of pictures! ;)

Where do I start Tracy???!?!!? EVERYONE, says El Salvador is dangerous. No importa a que parte vayas, people say be careful. Pero como mencionaron otros, be careful as you would be careful during any other trip.

Even around my house (Porter Ranch, CA) I am cautious, even though it is NOT concidered dangerous at all…. Mi punto es que no te preocupes y tu disfruta tus vacaciones!

Be careful girl! Unfortunately its sad to hear about the dangers of our Latin America countries. I have heard some disturbing new about Ecuador and for me with two elder parents its a deterrent to go visit.

I admire your bravery. Its always difficult for all visitors in a foreign country to understand not only the beauty but danger a country can possess. You are doing a great job in undersanding both because in your heart you are Latina and Latina-ish. :) Great post!

Love your honesty. I was scared the first time I went to Bolivia…I wanted to call the whole thing off right there in the airport. But then I never would have met my husband and have this beautiful family. I was NOT scared when I moved there and got married…just young and crazy. Then I WAS scared when I went back with kids. Being a mom changes everything. But of all my fears, none of them really happened. We even had some visits to hospitals while we were there, and everything turned out okay.
I know you won’t let your fear hold you back, if I know you from your writing. The “what if’s” can paralyze us sometimes…so if that happens, just say, “What if this is best trip of my life?” or “What if I don’t get robbed and take some great pictures?” (BTW, definitely give up the camera if someone tries to take it. I was once robbed of a cellphone out of my pocket and didn’t even know it until I got home. Two elderly bandits in cahoots. It’s a great story.)
I’m hoping you’ll have a wonderful, safe trip!!

Tracy, your MIL does little to allay your fears. : ( Traveling down south would make even me nervous. Just be aware of your surroundings and follow your gut (that little voice) and you should be fine. I’m super excited for you and can’t wait to hear all about your trip, amiga.

I can completely relate to this story. I love going to the Dominican Republic but haven’t been in a while. Since my last visit 12 years ago, I have been told que la cosa esta mala. Thievery, stabbings, shootings…solamente por robar un aniño o quitarte una cartera sin saber cuanto dinero cargas. This fills with me fear and has definitely deterred me from visiting my families country.

I don’t know anything about El Salvador, but maybe you can try a plain shopping bag, like those plain brown bags? My aunt in NYC uses plain gift bags as her purse, to attract less attention. Or maybe just carry a point & shoot in your pocket instead of a bigger camera?

I don’t usually carry fancy things I wouldn’t be ready to lose but no need to be over cautious. I found Panama was the most “dangerous” country in Latin America, we actually got mugged here. Drugs make people violent… and parts of the country are no-go, such as Colon or Darien.

I wasn’t scared in Salavador even though they are districts I wouldn’t go alone late at night.

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