When it comes to making a statement, men that adorn their personality, choose Custom Men! Get dressed to impress with well-tailored, well-fitted and custom tailored men’s suits in NYC and impress everyone with your impeccable fitted suits and shirts. Your clothes speak a lot about you, so make sure you have chosen the right attire for the occasion. Whether you are picking out Custom Suit and dress shirts for an important business meeting or a Bespoke Tuxedo for a formal occasion or a Made to Measure Sports Jacket for a casual event at Custom Men, our professional stylists will help you steal the show effortlessly!

The way you dress speaks volumes about your personality! Old and ill fitting clothes weigh you down whereas new suits and dress shirts that actually fit make you more productive by creating a confident, positive vibe around you! It’s no surprise why our customers wear custom suits and shirts even when their office gives them option to dress down on Fridays during Summer. Its true jeans and khakis feel comfortable, but imagine if your dress pants and suits feel as comfortable as them then why would you not wear them and look sharp at work? For those of you who are not near our NYC store, you can now buy custom suits and shirts online from our website.

1) Plan ahead: If you know your event is on May 15, do not wait until the last minute to place your order. A six weeks’ window is recommended for men’s custom suits and shirts (unlike women’s bridal dresses where six months is not enough sometimes!)

2) As you sow, so shall you reap: Wear the right shoes, shirt, pants during your initial fitting. If you wear loose fitted clothing or low waist jeans while getting measured for a suit, it will confuse a tailor and may not result in a proper fit. We recommend customers to wear or bring a suit (even if it doesn’t fit) so we can see at what height he wears his pants, what kind of fit he likes or dislikes etc. In case you don’t own a suit, a normal dress shirt or pant would suffice. Remember, the more thought you put into getting the right fit, the better would be the results.

3. Looks vs Comfort: Remember a proper fit is the right balance between looks and comfort. Often, customers look at a picture in a magazine or on social media and want themselves/their suits or shirts to look and fit that way without realizing they might be a different body type or will not be standing straight all day long (a model in a picture only stands that way until the picture is clicked). Add a professional photographer’s editing and photoshop skills and you will see an image which might be too much to replicate. So you should think realistically and ask yourself whether you will feel comfortable or not if a suit or shirt is made too tight? You should have a seat and check whether the pants or shirt are already fitted enough or should you get them taken in more? A shirt, once taken in too much, can’t be let out. If you’re paying for it, you might as well use it for more than just a few images. Hence a proper shirt, jacket or trouser should fit comfortably without being too tight or too loose.

4. Verdict: If you think your suits/shirts feel comfortable but wish they were a bit more fitted or loose, don’t panic. Wear them a few times and get a feel for them. We offer free alterations upto a full year, you can always bring them back for further adjustments. But if your clothes look good, you will hear it from your friends/co-workers right away! Almost all of the business we do is via word of mouth. Our customers get stopped in starbucks or other such random places and get compliments on their suits and shirts. Sometimes, we may not see things the way someone else does so its always good to get someone else’s out of the box opinion and brighten your day!

3 Ways To Keep Your Shirt Tucked In

I am from a Youtube Channel called New England Style Consulting and I would like to talk to you today about the most common problems plaguing anybody who likes to dress well and that is how do you keep your shirt tucked in.

It’s a problem that’s been plaguing me forever.

How do you keep looking as good as you do when you get yourself ready in the mirror all day long — it’s really difficult, especially if you’re active all day — reaching up & stretching or even getting out of your car, tying your shoe, sitting down at your desk.

It’s tough to keep your shirt tucked in and looking fresh all day long and from my research and experimentation it seems like every method falls under one of three categories.

Layering

The first one you have is layering.

There are different ways to layer your clothes to hopefully keep everything where it should be.

And this includes tucking techniques.

The military tuck is more or less where you would take the side of your shirt, and where it meets your pants — you will fold it in half, and tuck it underneath your waistband and hopefully keep things tucked in that way.

However, that only works as long as you’re not moving very much because as soon as you reach up to grab something, your shirt will come untucked and your military tuck is kinda out.

So, that doesn’t really work because it needs to be readjusted throughout the day.

The other thing you can do is tuck your shirt into your underwear, then your dress shirt on the outside, and then your pants.

So, you have kind of a layer sandwich going on.

That does work to a point and will certainly keep things tucked in a bit more than just tucking normally, but still this technique doesn’t quite cut the mustard.

Friction

The second category is friction.

So, you’ll find all kinds of contraptions across the net that promise to help keep your shirt tucked in.

Usually what they’re going to use is some sort of rubberized compound.

Sometimes you’ll find it on the inside of a waistband of a pair of pants.

Sometimes you’ll find it on the inside or outside of the waistband of a pair of underwear.

I’ve even seen little tabs that go over your belt and supposed to stick inside your waistband which are supposed to keep your shirt tucked and from coming up.

Now, one of the problems with these is the same as if you were going to tuck in your shirt normally which is they don’t really hold up stretching.

So, if you’re going to stretch and extend this piece of cloth out of your pants, it’s going to go and it’s going to kind of just billow out when your done and there’s just no way to get around that.

They may keep things in place as long as you’re not moving much, but who doesn’t move a lot throughout the day.

If you don’t, then you probably have bigger problems than keeping your shirt tucked in.

Tension

Now the third category is tension.

Tension is my favorite because anytime you’re using something that creates tension, it will help return something to its starting point.

So, if you have an anchor around your ankle or your sock, and it goes up to the shirt tail, if you’re moving it outside and creating more tension, as you move back it will return to its starting position.

This is my favorite. The only problem is that it does require an apparatus of some sort.

So, the one that I like to use is a normal shirt stay.

These here are from Sharp & Dapper, but you can get them anywhere. I know there are a bunch of different companies that make these.

These are the ones that I use. They’ve been absolutely wonderful.

One end goes to your sock. This long piece goes up the inside of your pants, and these three connect to your shirt tail.

The nice thing is that with just a little bit of gentle tension, when you stretch, this will bring them right back.

It’s just a nice way to keep yourself looking tucked in all day long.

I know that law enforcement and military have used these for a long time.

That’s how they maintain that very neat look.

So, if it’s good enough for the military, it’s certainly good enough for me.

These are absolutely wonderful. They do take a little bit of getting used to as far as putting them on and feeling that something is inside of the outside of your leg.

It’s a little bit strange at first. However, it’s a welcome trade-off to looking sharp and clean all day long.

So, those are the three categories of keeping your shirt tucked in.

Conclusion

I’d really be interested to see in the comments which ones you’ve tried.

If there’s something that I’ve missed — if there’s some kind of snake oil out there that helps you keep your shirt tucked in, and helps you look good all day long, I am all ears!

Thank you so much for watching the Ask Andy About Clothes Youtube Channel.

This is just the beginning, so please hit that [Youtube Channel] subscribe button.

A Guide to looking as good as you can, all things considered!

Here’s Andy’s basic tips on how to look your best. For more blogs please check out Andy’s Blog at www.askandyaboutclothes.com

A Guide to looking as good as you can, all things considered!

“I don’t get no respect.” –Rodney Dangerfield

Tips, secrets, and common sense to teach you how to put together a clothing ensemble that will make you look great.

Dangerfield! Look at yourself! A man who doesn’t know how to dress like a grown-up gets what he deserves, respect-wise.

Why? Because it turns out that clothes are more important than you think. In fact, researchers have come up with some scientific evidence to support the notion that what you wear really does make a difference in how you influence the world around you.

So now you know what you always suspected: The guy down the hall who didn’t know poop but got the vice-president’s slot anyway got it not because he was smart, but because he knew how to look smart.

That’s what this Guide is all about. In situations such as job interviews, court appearances, sales presentations and first dates it is important to make a not just good, but a great first impression for maximum credibility and authority.

Behavioral scientists tell us that the effect of a first impression is a strong one. The process of sizing you up is something that goes on almost subconsciously. Your evaluation by a stranger takes 30 seconds or less, and can be so strong that it could take as long as five years to erase.

Why not take advantage of the research on human nature and use that knowledge to enhance and control how you are seen by others? Since about 90 percent of you is covered by what you’re wearing, the clothing you choose makes a significant statement.

No rocket science here. Just a little physics and some introductory optics.

There are only a few basic things you need to know about getting dressed to look your best. The main thing is that you should look like you got dressed without having to consult a web guide; you want people to think that looking as good as you do was effortless and easy.

Follow the steps here, and soon you won’t need any steps to follow at all.

The basic basics.

Here’s the handful of things to keep in mind:

Yipes! Stripes!One bad choice can be a whole pattern of misbehavior.

Most of us know that wide horizontal stripes make the eye move left to right thus creating a broadening effect, and vertical stripes coax the eyes up and down helping to establish a thinner look.

Large designs like plaids, focus on girth not length, whereas small patterns or no patterns underscore thinness.

A super models tip: Walk like a man. Stand like a supermodel

Next time you’re the subject of a photo op, pretend there is a clock at your feet. Right foot goes at twelve and left foot at ten, then angle your body to the left to give the person you’re talking to (or the paparazzi) a better, slimmer view.

It also makes for a better photo if you push your shoulders back, keep your eyes wide open (smiling tends to close your eyes), and lower your chin (unless you have a double chin, then raise it slightly)!

Speak Body Language.

Your mom was right! One of the most memorable things she ever said: “Stand up straight, young man.” Why did she say that? Because she knew that good posture will take five or 10 pounds off you with no sweat.

Don’t be a slouch! Whether you are standing or sitting, slouching can suggest that you are intimidated, that you lack confidence or that you’re uninterested in what others have to say. Swaying or bouncing your foot says that you are nervous.

Keep your head up. If you walk with your head down it lets other people be more important than you. Look at where you’re going. Make eye contact. Don’t stare, but look the other person (persons) in the eye 40 to 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide. When you are in a meeting, it’s okay to look laterally side to side, which appears intellectual or powerful, but don’t look up or down. It makes you look as if you’ve lost your confidence.

Smile, but “over smiling” gives the impression of weakness. A good smile says you are confident, authoritative and friendly. A real smile lasts three or four seconds; anything longer appears frozen or phony. Smile, but “over smiling” gives the impression of weakness. A good smile says you are confident, authoritative and friendly. A real smile lasts three or four seconds; anything longer appears frozen or phony.

Hands. The first place nervous energy shows is in your hands. Don’t jingle your change, play with your ring or fiddle with your tie. Hands clasped in front of you, below your waist gives the impression of insecurity and looks like you don’t know what to do with your hands. Just let them hang at your sides, naturally and casually.To put your hands by your side and do nothing with your hands is powerful body language. Don’t hold one arm with the other, don’t clasp your hands in front or in back, and don’t stick your hands in your pockets (it makes your hind end look twice as wide.)

Mirror, Mirror On The Wall. People are most comfortable with people who are “like” themselves (in dress, mannerisms, thoughts, etc.). Mirror: Try to “mirror” the other person’s body position and mannerisms such as speech speed, (to a certain degree).

Voice pitch. Keep your pitch low. There are more men on radio, because people respond better to lower pitched voices. Don’t end a sentence with a high note, in the interrogative question tone. Instead phrase questions assertively; for example say “I’d like to know when I can meet with you,” as opposed to “when can I meet with you?”

On the phone. Look into a mirror when you are talking on the phone. Ask yourself, would you want to talk to the person you see in the mirror? A smile can be heard over the phone, for example.

Don’t start by apologizing. Some people start to speak by apologizing, or preface a statement with, “forgive me for saying this”. Many of us do it because we learned it from our mothers, and think it’s polite.

MEN’S STYLE TIPS

We think not just with our brains but with our bodies

What you wear can change how you think!

We’ve established that how you dress really does make an impression on others and affects how they perceive you and how they treat you. Ever see a guy in shorts, tee shirt and flip flops get bumped up to First Class?

Adam D. Galinsky, a professor at the Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University, who led the study.

If you wear a white coat that you believe belongs to a doctor, your ability to pay attention increases sharply. But if you wear the same white coat believing it belongs to a painter, you will show no such improvement.

The findings, on the Web site of The Journal of Experimental Social Psychology, are a twist on a growing scientific field called embodied cognition.

We think not just with our brains but with our bodies, Dr. Galinsky said, and our thought processes are based on physical experiences that set off associated abstract concepts. Now it appears that those experiences include the clothes we wear.

There is a huge body of work on embodied cognition, Dr. Galinsky said. The experience of washing your hands is associated with moral purity and ethical judgments. People rate others personally warmer if they hold a hot drink in their hand, and colder if they hold an iced drink. If you carry a heavy clipboard, you will feel more important.

It has long been known that “clothing affects how other people perceive us as well as how we think about ourselves,” Dr. Galinsky said. Other experiments have shown that women who dress in a masculine fashion during a job interview are more likely to be hired, and a teaching assistant who wears formal clothes is perceived as more intelligent than one who dresses more casually.

Clothes invade the body and brain, putting the wearer into a different psychological state, he said.

Fashion Advice for the Gentelmen from our favorite Andy. Do check out more blogs and get the insdier information on Andy’s blog’s (www.askandyaboutclothes.com).

Helpful Tips For Avoiding The Ten Most Common Men’s Fashion Mistakes

Why be concerned with your appearance?

Is it really that important to your career, romance, or influence over others?

Absolutely!

It’s a scientific fact that people who don’t know you make up their minds about you on a subliminal/prehistoric basis in 30 seconds or less. This evaluation of you by others takes place so quickly and is so entrenched in the human brain that it is not usually conscious thought.

Behavioral scientists tell us that we notice the following about another human being and in this order: Skin color, Sex, Age, Bearing (height, body language, etc.), Appearance, Direct Eye Contact, and Speech.

The first three we can do nothing about, but we can take advantage of this knowledge to enhance and control how to present the best image of ourselves.

Since 80% of what others see is our clothes, lets look at some basic faux pas:

Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel. Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.And the Button-Down collar dress shirt is not acceptable for dressy eveningwear (after 6 PM) nor with a double-breasted suit. That’s because even though it’s now a daytime business classic it was originally a sport shirt. The collar was buttoned-down by polo players to keep it from flapping in their faces.

Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men’s wardrobes. Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion. If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes.Don’t wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you’re not wearing them.

Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross your legs. Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front.Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional. Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.

Never wear both a belt and braces (suspenders). You’ll appear insecure.

Socks should match your trousers.

Belts should match your shoes.

Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable. Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.

Properly knotted ties have a “dimple” under the knot. Clips and tacks are out of date.How to get a dimple under your knot?

Place your index finger in the middle of the tie just under where the knot is forming, pinch that part of the necktie between your thumb and middle finger and squeeze together as you pull it down and tighten the knot.

The necktie knot should hide the collar button.

Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority. However the bottom buttons of men’s jacketsare not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend (see detail below).

NO! NEVER!!

YES!

Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons. Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business. With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.

With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button. Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button. On those suits you leave the top button unfastened. Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons!

Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom. If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it’s ok to close or leave it open.

Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”. They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”).

Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes. It doesn’t always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened.

Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look.

Why do men never button the bottom button of your suit, sports jacket, vest or Cardigan sweater?

King Edward VII, “Bertie”, son of Victoria (1841 – 1910, King 1901 – 1910) was so heavy that he could not get the bottom button fastened on his vest or to be more historically kind, maybe he just forgot. His subjects taking it as a fashion statement followed his lead and today most men’s suits, sports jackets or vests are not designed to button the bottom button.

The tradition of not buttoning the bottom button may have also come from the early waistcoats, which were very long. It may have been out of necessity of being able to walk that the bottom buttons were left undone.

Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing 1/4″ to 1/2” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.

We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions. Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions.

Insightful article on how to dress for this brutal cold weather by Andy Gilchrist. Make sure to check out Andy’s website (www.askandyaboutclothes.com) for more insightful articles.

It’s Winter: What to Wear and When

Staying warm in winter is crucial.

Follow these key tips for keeping warm and comfortable during winter by learning about fabric, layering, and facial protection.

NOTE: Some tips about your lips below this article!

It doesn’t matter if you’re snowboarding in the Alps or raking leaves in Wisconsin, a few minutes of focused thinking about what you will wear will help you keep warm and comfortable, and you’ll probably look better too!

The most effective method is to mimic the Eskimos who wore layered fur. They knew what they were doing!

Wearing a series of relatively thin layers, rather than one or two thick layers is the most effective way to retain heat.

It’s also an easy way to adjust to varying temperatures throughout the day just by adding or removing layers.

Winter Fabric Tech 101

Cotton, wool, or silk can keep you warm standing still, but a body in motion pumps out perspiration that gets trapped in natural fibers, so you’re stuck with cold, clammy fabric next to your skin.

That’s the advantage of high tech synthetics, which wick moisture away yet remains impervious to the elements.

Here are some suggestions on how to layer yourself if you’re going to be out in the cold doing any physical activity:

Base layer

The primary function of the innermost layer should be to wick moisture away from your body.

Choose a synthetic fabric like Capilene, Thermax, or Prolite, all of which will wick perspiration away quickly.

Mid-layer

The next layers should insulate plus continue to transport (wick) moisture away from the body and towards the outer shell.

It’s better to err on the side of too many layers. You can always remove something if you get too warm.

Look for fabrics that trap air to keep you warm.

Fleece, or brands like Polartec, Primaloft, Thermolite, and Thinsulate are all good options.

The outer layer’s purpose is to protect you from wind, rain and/or snow. Fabrics in the outer layer should allow for ventilation and breathability.

Make certain that it’s big enough to fit over all the other layers comfortably.

When you wear a cotton shirt or sweatshirt on top of one of these high tech fabrics that wick away perspiration, you can expect that, the outer shirt will be as wet or wetter on the inside as perspiration is “wicked” away from the body and transferred to the absorbent outer layer.

If you wear a wind shell of Gore-tex or MFT, the moisture can pass through the outer layer and evaporate, leaving you more comfortable.

The outer shell must protect against the elements, especially wind and water, to keep the other layers dry. Look for waterproof fabrics that also breathe, such Gore-tex, or Supplex.

Keep all the layers loose.

This is for insulation as well as comfort.

You’ll want your pants to be loose enough at the ankle and calf to roll up to mid-calf for proper ski boot fit.

Wear only one pair of well fitting ski socks that come up to the knee or at least mid-calf.

Loose socks can slip around and multiple pairs of socks can affect your boot fit.

Thirty percent of body heat is lost through the head, so bring a hat. A hat that also covers your ears is the best choice.

Don’t loose your mittens, and when you buy ski clothes try to work the zippers, and other closures with your gloves on!

Protect that face.

You’ll need it for après-ski. Experiment with a facemask, bandanna or cowl neckpiece to see what works best for you.

Winter cold, and the UV radiation from the sun (and reflected off the snow) is brutal on skin so it’s important to put moisturizer with high SPF sunscreen protection on your face and keep your lips sealed with lip balm (remember Suzy Chapstick!).

Even the high heat/low humidity indoors dries out your skin.

Don’t forget to moisturize from the inside with plenty of water (water, not hot buttered rums) before, after and while you’re doing any vigorous activity, especially at high climes.

Gore-tex

A brand name, is one of the first and probably the most famous of the high-tech athletic clothing fabrics. Gore-tex is waterproof and breathable.

It is a membrane attached to outer and liner fabrics that prevents large drops, such as rain, from penetrating but allows tiny droplets, such as perspiration, to pass through and evaporate.

Microfiber

Is a silky fabric, composed of micro-thin filaments (half the thickness of a strand of silk) of polyester or nylon tightly woven into a fabric that sheds water, stops wind.

MFT

Micro Flow Transmission, works on the same theory as Gore-tex but at a more modest price.

Tiny pores allow perspiration to escape but block water and wind from entering.

Polartec

A brand name fabric, is polyester that is napped and finished on both sides creating tiny air pockets, which trap warm air, and it breathes!

Polypropylene

Which is sold under brand name LIFA, was the first of the “wicking” fabrics that transported sweat away from the body, keeping the fabric next to the skin relatively dry and comfortable.

There are several generations of polypropylene, including a new generation (“Prolite”) that can be washed and machine dried.

Earlier polypropylene fabric was meant to be line dried.

Primaloft

A brand name for a lightweight non-absorbent synthetic insulation, which stays warm even when wet.

Supplex

A nylon fabric that Dupont created with the good qualities of nylon (easy-care, great color retention, little or no ironing, durability, softness, etc.) without the stickiness that nylon creates.

Supplex is a wicking, breathable nylon that comes in many styles including wovens and knits, and can be found with many different treatments such as water proof/repellent, sun-protective or anti-microbial.

This fabric is used to line other breathable fabrics, like the outer layer of a breathable garment, or can simply be used alone as outerwear.

Solarweave and Solar Knit

Both from the Solar Protective Factory, are breathable fabrics (either due to the style of knit/weave and/or the addition of special wicking additives).

They are light-weight, cotton-like, wicking, color-retentive, easy-care, odor and mildew resistant, and block 95% to 99% of the sun’s harmful UVA an UVB rays!

Skin cancer is a fast growing disease that accumulates after repeated exposures over time and surfaces later in your lifetime.

It’s not something that you get upon immediate exposure to the sun, nor do you need to be sunburned to have harmful ultraviolet radiation absorbed into your skin.

We lather up our exposed skin with high SPF lotion, but a typical cotton T-shirt will block only 50% of the sun’s harmful UVA and UVB rays.

Get it wet and it actually transmits 10% to 20% more rays.

These fabrics retain sun-protective properties even after two years of wear and tear and have passed extensive FDA requirements for skin irritation/sensitivity, abrasion and UV blocking abilities.

Squalls

Describes brand name products usually containing a Supplex shell, Polartec lining and a thin insulation.

Supplex

A soft, strong nylon brand name fabric, which is water-repellent and wind resistant.

Tencel

A fabric made from wood fibers, which is soft as silk, and as breathable as cotton.

The difference between Rayon (also made from wood fibers) and Tencel is that Rayon is made using a chemical process, while Tencel production uses a spinning process.