Cadillac Tech Tips - How to fix it Discussion, Junkyard tech in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; I had a '93 Bonneville SSE that had a HUD that was wire adjustable. Initially I didn't think this option ...

Re: Junkyard tech

I had a '93 Bonneville SSE that had a HUD that was wire adjustable. Initially I didn't think this option was all that useful, but after a while I got REALLY acclimated to never looking down from the road. You always know exactly how fast you are going...which is real handy if you've had a few and don't want to speed or get pulled over for swerving while you're looking down at the instrument panel.

Some more specifics about how to wire the sucker up/calibrate it would be really useful.

Re: Junkyard tech

Another good swap is upgrading to CSI 144 124/140 amp alternators and I use them on Chevys by simply putting a cresent wrench on the stamped steel alternator upper mount and simply push it up a little and solder in the newer plug. it still reqires one power wire (Ill look for the diagram of the CSI Alt plug an post it as soon as I find it)to jey on just like a SI series and another I loop over to the battery terninal oh and the clocking on CSI alternators is as looking fromt the front not the back and most GM pulleys will interchange and the big thing is watch for spacers under the alt pulley as some pulleys have it made into the pulley.
These have digital regulators and if you have an amps guage in system you will see the needle jump up as your system bumps. I had a 321-411 on my 70 Monte Carlo for 9 years then on my 78 C10 for 2 1/2 yrs and finally it started getting weake(worn brushes I think, Ill just swap it in at AZ for new one soon).
This is simply one of the best mods (CSI alt )reguardless of it being a 130mm or a 144mm case as the 130s are 105 amps andwill work fine.
I havent got to play with the internal fan ones yet but its simply a cleaner look and matching up/making mounting brackets. and if you can find the cooling duct from the older CSI's with the black back cover you can make them pull cool air from a fender or the base of the winshield/cowl area and it helps if you have large stereo systems.
Oh and I even use CSIs on farm tractor conversions, really helps the light brightness too.
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

Re: Junkyard tech

Concerning the HUD projects... The best way to know if a particular year /make HUD will work in a Cadillac is to obtain the Factory Service Manuals (FSM) for BOTH CARS. You'll have to research and understand the wiring for the HUD and which wires from your Cadillac you will have to use to make the HUD work.

I have not looked into the mounting possiblities... But I'm sure others on here who have stripped down a caddy interior would have a better idea on where / how to fabricate a mount. ..

Another question a lot of people ask about is will they need an HUD spec windshield to get the HUD to work?.. the answer is NO!!!..

GM, for example in the 90's they started using the SAME windshields for NON-HUD cars and HUD equppied cars!..

YES, the windshields are made on the SAME assembly line. The ONLY difference is that GM workers would test the glass for higher "reflectablity". Higher reflecting windshields got sorted in the "HUD parts bin".... That made the price of the windshield increase by $500 or so bucks.... :-(

So the type of windshield your Caddy uses is the LEAST of your worries if you want to try your hand at adapting an HUD.

Re: Junkyard tech

Whoops, forgot about this. Here's the write up I made for the HUD (originally to put it into a CRX, I changed it a bit for here)

First, scour your local junkyards for mid-90s junked Pontiac Bonnevilles. Look for SSE or SSEi models. If you can find a newer style HUD out of a later Bonneville or GP, your lucky. They have motorized mirrors to adjust the image, instead of the cable actuated older style which this write up deals with. (there similar though, and will work sans radio function) Remember, your dealing with a Pontiac interior, so most of the trim panels you simply pull to release the clips. Remove the panel around the HUD and defroster grilles and the panel around the controls for the HUD by the steering wheel. Unscrew the two torx screws holding the controls to the dash, and clip the wires going to the plug, leaving enough room for you to splice into later on. Disconnect the mechanical adjustment cable by pulling it free starting with the base. it will unclip. Next, remove the 4 torx screws holding the HUD unit to the top of the dash. These are angled so you actually can get a screwdriver in there without too much trouble. The HUD will lift out giving you (limited) access to the connector on the front. Cut the wires for this as close to the main harness bundle as you can, giving you more room to work once it's in your car.
Now you will need the appropriate wiring diagram for your instrument cluster. The wires to concetrate on are:

+12v power to gauges
Gauges ground
High beam indicator
Left and Right turn indicators
+12v Gauges Illumination
Gauges Illumination dimming