ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WHILST THE VEHICLE IS BEING DRIVEN ON A LONG RUN. THE ALTERNATER IS CHARGING 14 VOLTS THE RADIO AND REV COUNTER PACK UP WORKING. THE CAR WILL TICK OVER BUT RUNS LUMPY UNDER ACCELERATION AND HAS NO POWER TO PULL AWAY WHEN CHECKED THE BATTERY IS FLAT.

May I can put a nail in this one for you.The problem is your alternator. The proper charge rate is 13.6 to 14.2v Now get this. The higher the voltage, the lower the amps.Voltage @ the 14.2 end is moving the minimum amps. @ 15 v there os no charging happenning. Go to the other end and you'll find at 12v the alternator is puring the coals to the battery Alt @ max output. The difference between 12 and 13 / 14 and 15 is the is like a buffer. If the alt charges @ less than 13v for any length of time, It goes poof because of excessive heat.which is an indicator the battery is possibly ready to go poof also. Alt. function as a source of maintenance charging when deman is low and a compensator when demand goes up. That is why a low cranking amp battery is for lawnmowers and people that like buying batts and alts.Now, solution! Have your battery load tested. Chances are real good that it is not up to par. Hence, overworked alternator. If so, replace it. 650 to 850 cold crank amps rating . (cca ) Then have your alt tested output checked if you you end up with a new batt. If your alt puts oout in the given range, which should be around but not below 13v) After starting, it will charge heavy to make up for the cracking, but should get up around 13.6v within 15 seconds. Alts charge at all speeds, unlike generators of old which needed speed (rpms) to put out power. Alts do all the thinking and have internal regulators. Well anyway, You didn't ask for a course in Automotive electrical just a course of action. Remember, Battery first ten alt. Good luck. Any autozone or checker parts store can do all that checking for you. -Ned-

My alternator does not charge even when i change the it and the battery. It just not charging. I frustrated because i just bought and engine (want my car to drive)My alternator does not charge even when i change the it and the battery. It just not charging. I frustrated because i just bought and engine (want my car to drive)

1 Suggested Answer

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.goodluck!

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Related Questions:

A 98 still has a computer so with out power it will die my guess is corroded wires first use a multi meter and check for voltage on the terminal on the alternater it should show 13 to 14.5 volts D/C then check the battery see if it has 13 to 14 volts if yes it is charging if the altenater show 13 to 14 it is charging if the voltage is 11 to 12 or lower it is just reading the battery and you need a alternater if the aliternater is good and the battery is not charging it is either the power wire or ground you can use jumper cables to check jump from the post on the alternater to positive battery by its self if this fixes it it is the power wire if not unhook the positive and then connect the ground thermal to the engine block and see if that fixes it if not do both you will see the problem good luck

The alternator is what charges the battery, which supplies energy for the electrical systems of the vehicle, such as lights and the radio.It is driven by the belt which is driven by the engine. Before replacing the alternator make sure it is the cause of whatever problems you may be having. A sign that the alternator is bad may include the car shutting off while driving and won't start back up (but will start up with a jump).You can test the charging volts of the alternator to the battery while running also.

check your battery if volts are less than 13 charge battery. car will probably start .than check battery voltage againwith car running if it is not 14 volts or better you have a bad alternater .I suspect your alternater is bad.

You will need an electrical meter that reads volts DC.Turn on the vehicle and probe the battery terminals.The reading should be between 13.2 to 14 volts (approx).Anything around 12 volts indicates an alternater problem,or bad ground.

well running the voltage from alternator should be at least 14 volts or a bit higher, engine off it should read at least 13 volts at battery. if alternater is less then 14 volts, it is the alternator at fault. or a loose alt, belt.

1) The battery is flat because it is no longer holding a charge. The ability of a battery to retain a charge will diminish over time. In this case a replacement battery is needed.

2) There is a problem with the alternator which is not supplying charge to the battery when the vehicle is running causing the battery to be drained over a period of time.

You can test for both of these using a multimeter and this is very easy to do.

1) With the meter set to the DC scale and attached to the terminals of the battery (Red lead to Positive, Black to Negative) and with all accesories turned off - you should have a reading above 9.6 volts. If the reading is less than this the battery is faulty and needs to be replaced.

2) If the reading is above 9.6 volts, you need to get the car running in order to test your alternator. You will need someone to rev the engine whilst you connect the meter to the battery. With the engine at a fast idle, and all accessories off, the voltage on the meter should read around 14 volts (13.5 to 14.4) showing that the alternator is producing a reliable charge.

Anything less than 12 volts with the engine running means the alternator is at fault and it is the alternator that needs to be replaced not the battery.

You can also test with accessories on (heater, lights etc,,) The reading should still remain around 14 volts with these extra drains on and the engine at fast idle. Anything less is an indicator of a faulty alternator being the cause of your problem.

with the milage you have on the vehicle the alternater brushes are most likely worn out. It sounds like you have several different problems. I would start by fixing the charging system problem. I don't know what sort of knowledge you have with vehicle charging systems but these earlier charging systems are quit simple. If you even take a volt meter and read the battery voltage with teh engine running you will probably find it at whatever the battery voltage is. when the engine is running you should be atleast 1 volt higher. this vehicle should be approximatly 13.2 to 14.0 volts. The best way to test this system is with a load tester but I know that most people don't have one in there garage. You could even take it to a parts store and have it tested for free. It doesen't matter because they don't test the amperage output unless you remove the alternater and have it bench tested. Voltage issues can cause all kinds of strange issues with cars. just be glad you have an earlier car. I'am assuming that the battery was not jumped with the leads on backwards. Test your charging system! Most likely you can get by just replacing the brushes. If you keep driving it like this you will damage the armature in the alternater and have to replace it. There are ignition noise suppressers in the front wheel bearing retaing nuts. I don't want to get to technical but they put these there so the abs wheel speed senser will not disrupt the radio. They work magnetically. There is magnatism in an electrical circuit. the loss of instrument illumination is most likley the (rheostat) dimmer switch on the instrument cluster. start with your charging system.