Trying to disassemble the rear end(hydraulic). Cannot get the brake shell/hub assy pulled off the tapered axle. Have a plenty strong puller setup. Have used penetrating oil. Tried heating the hub but that is dificult to do as I can only apply heat at the end of the hub because I can't even get the shell and hub separated. I am afraid to put any more stress/pull than I already have with the puller for fear of damage. What in the hell am I not doing that I should, or doing that I shouldn't?

And this is only the first one- haven't tried the other end yet.

Should I chant, cast a spell, sacrifice a small furry animal, what???????

Know ya pulled the nut & sleeve off. I had to put tension on the hub & leave overnight w/oil. Then hit the axle shaft with 2lb hammer and block of wood a few times before it came away from the tappered shaft. The taper had allowed condensate to rust the parts together. One axle the key was all mangled when I got to It which probably hindered the removal of the sheel.

Let it be known that the nut and sleeve have been removed, I have been using penetrating oil (although I should probably be a bit more patient with
it), and I am trying to be careful with the puller( that's why I stopped and asked for help- I was about to be NOT careful with the puller!)

Billy- as far as staying up till midnite? I can't even stay awake till 10 PM anymore! How about maybe two this afternoon I run over a purple Barney with my shovelhead? Do you think that would be acceptable to the Gods?

The CORRECT tool for the job is a 3-jaw HUB PULLER,this is not the same as a gear puller. The hub and axle are a interference fit as much as sprocket/pinion shafts,flywheels are,would you use heat on your flywheels??????? NOT. THE 3-jaw hub puller bolts to the wheel studs and will pull the brakedrum/hub off the axle evenly. '60's CHRYSLERS,STUDEBAKERS,JEEPS used this same type of brake drum/hub arrangement on the axles. The SDC (STUDEBAKER DRIVERS CLUB) HAS VENDORS ADVERTISING SUCH A PULLER($30.00) REGULARLY BREWSKI

Rob, I was thinking maybe a little never-seize on those tapers would be a good thing when you reassemble. Just a thin coating maybe ? Everything turns slow in there so any good grease will work. Just match the factory values of the lube. My thoughts...Pa

Anyone that would put any grease or anti-seize on a taper is not playing with a full deck! You wouldn;t do that on the sprocket/pinion shaft/crankpin tapers in the flywheels in an engine,would yopu????? Tapers work on an interference fit;just like the MT on the tailstock in a lathe. Any moly lube is preferrrable,just make sure you use the same lube thru-out and continuosly. BREWSKI

This one card short of 52 deck used light never seize on many a machine tool and engine/trans tapers without any lost of fit. Of course these tapers were locked with nuts and actually driven by keys but release was nice when a tool would be in position for days and sometimes weeks with coolant and other chemicals present to permanently seize them. I don't recommend using it on none locked applications where only a drive tang and no key is present. .. Does this clarify the situation and suggestion to you ? Brewski ????????? Pa