How gratifying it can be to rediscover a place like Maria's Mexican & Latin Cuisine, which used to seem somewhat ordinary. No more. The oddly shaped corner restaurant, embedded within Nesconset, has clearly reasserted itself. "We're always looking for new recipes, new specials," said co-owner Maria Mones, who works with her partner, Maria Mendez and chef Carlos Botello.

Winning, as well, are three soft corn tacos al carbon -- respectively, chicken, pork and beef grilled with pineapple and topped with pico de gallo and avocado. Chicken breast and shrimp in a spicy-smoky chipotle sauce turns up piquant and delicious. Lots of lively flavor in the shrimp in garlic sauce, even if the shellfish is a bit overcooked. A shame, though, that the highly savory ropa vieja -- a classic Cuban shredded beef dish -- hasn't achieved tenderness. On the other hand, Botello's garlicky Cuban roast pork with rice, beans and sweet plantains is irreproachable.

Conclude with a house-made finale, such as the rich, creamy chocolate flan or a semi-frozen strawberry margarita pie.