I got them in and looked them over, they look good. Will I need to ream out the existing holes or are they good as is I would have already installed them but I've been working on another project rewiring my ARIA 335 copy, so the Electra is next. Platefire

Well I installed the new tuning keys today. One of the easiest repairs I've done lately--no problems at all.My A string key was not exactly square with the others but is was because original installation with the wood screw was a little off. It wasn't off enough to change/re drill, so it left it as is. Also installed new strings while I was at it. After the new strings stretched a bit, I check the tuning returning to 440 from whammy bends. It was returning to pitch very well. They look like they were meant to be! Platefire

Last edited by platefire on Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I was wanting to pick up that black 6mm Floyd Rose trem arm for this guitar that you had suggested from GFS in a previous post on this thread. I have attached a link of the one I think you are referring to. Would you please verify this is the one? Thanks, Platefire

Hay thanks Thorny for confirming that. They got quiet a few arms on there so I wanted to make sure I get the right one. It's great to have someone previous experience on the same type ax to rely on. I'll go ahead and put my order in. Thanks Very Much! Platefire

there are other sellers of the same type stuff online if they are out. Any 6MM floyd type that looks like that should work. Here is on on ebay, and I don't know anything about the selller but it looks like the same thing. There are others too. I just pulled up a cheaper one. And this place is in USA so should arrive faster.

I got my Floyd Rose 6 mm Trem Arm in yesterday. This trem arm is an ALLPARTS BP0071-003 Metric Black.For future reference, I wouldn't recommend buying this trem arm for a Spectrum or especially the model of this post reasons as follows:

1-The short part of the arm with the threads is too short. When you screw the arm in far enough to be secure or somewhat secure, it will not clear the bridge, so you have to back it out a turn or two to clear the bridge. Also you can only use it with the knobs not pulled out because with any of the controls knobs pulled out to activate switching options, the arm will not clear.

2-One thing I haven't noticed before and should have looked closer before ordering, in my hole in the base of the trem to insert trem arm into are two sets of threads at two different diameters. I don't know what the top diameter threads are for? but the 6 mm goes right through those threads without even touching. It will screw into the bottom smaller diameter hole/threads but the fit is loose. So the treads seem to match where it will screw in and not pull out---but the fit is loose--not sure if that from wear in my trem base of not? Even when screwed in all the way and as said before will not clear bridge and even screwed out some will not clear pulled knobs.

3-I will say I am presently using it because I can do my lite bends and full cord wiggles with it as long as I operate in humbucker mode only. With the looseness in the fit, makes it unresponsive to subtle wiggles. I will continue to use it until I locate one that a better tighter fit.

I am curious about the larger diameter top hole & threads if the original tremolo somehow utilized both sets of threads and holes. Thorny if you can shed any light on this it would be greatly appreciated. I'm not complaining because the cost was minimal but just trying to guide anybody that may be in the future seeking info on this thread in the right direction and am interested in finding about the double hole and treads---that I should have checked out closer before ordering. Thanks, Platefire

Does yours look like this? (sorry for the grainy picture, took it on an iphone and blew it up). This one is the one without fine tuners, but later ones (and I believe earlier ones) use the same 6MM arm. Almost all of mine are replacements because people remove them and lose them.

It should have a "collar" threaded nut insert that goes around the wide part. That is adjustable, but threaded down to the bottom of the bridge plate and block. The 6MM threads are below that. If you are missing that, hmmmm, might be hard to find unless you find another bridge. I really don't know because I have not had to find one of those. I have a handfull of these guitars on hand and they have them - sorry no extras. I am more than fine with some of these guys on the forum that have 50 or 100s of these to chime in. But with the bridge correctly floating off the top of the guitar and the arm fully inserted *and that collar down low near the base* you should have enough threads. If you have all of that it should be adjustable to work. You will be close to the knobs, but you should clear them if your bridge is floating parallel to the body.

I use a heavy smaller spring inside the holes of trems to apply tension to the threaded bar for less wobble on vintage trems and these threaded bars so that it stays in place better. I also sometimes use plumbers tape on the threaded part of the bars to reduce wobble inside the threaded block (if needed). That drives me crazy. I hope this all helps you out. I also have taken these to a Guitar Center or somewhere that does a lot of repairs (besides myself) to see if they have a bunch of bars - they will let you try them to see if they have one that fits. I have had them give them to me if I am a regular customer, and I don't mind paying. But the last few I bought were off of ebay or guitar fetish. Allparts is about as reputable brand as you can get too, so it should work. If you are missing that threaded collar, hopefully some of the guys know a source for those.

Ahhhh.... the dreaded Bendmaster wang bar collar; there are no drop in replacements for that part at all, sorry... BUT... one of the more clued up Westone lads made one from a FR bar and collar replacement set by re-threading the collar where it screws into the trem block and it works perfectly!! I know because I bought 2 from him just on the off chance that I might at some stage need them.... and, of course, eventually I did; my Raider II wears a black one and my Spectrum MX has a chrome one.

I think the thread has to be re-tapped to 9mm with a 1.25 pitch....

I have bought replacement bars from Stewmac which work perfectly; from memory, "6mm for imported guitars" and they have a long threaded section... the bloke who ran the Westone site some years ago had some exact copies of tbe bars made which he then sold on to needy owners!

_________________Every guitarist I would cross paths with would tell me that I should have a flashy guitar, whatever the latest fashion model was, and I used to say, 'Why? Mine works, doesn't it? It's a piece of wood and six strings, and it works.'

Yep, Thorny---I think mine is the same as yours less the collar as shown in attached pix with the threaded part of the new arm included. Even if I has the correct collar I'm not sure rather this bar would work with it or not?

corsair---Hopefully I can eventually get some help with a collar. Either by someone with an extra original or a modded FR one.

Maybe I need to go on another tread dealing with parts on this forum make a request for one.

On another note. my most lower switch/tone control is not switching the pickups out of phase. It worked when I first got the ax but no longer. I tried contact cleaner on it without any effect. I was looking a stewMac's Alpha pots with DPDT that looks it might be a direct replacement. Would that be good is there a better source for replacement? Platefire