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Frank Bruni suggests a way for L’Artusi to improve its one-star rating: “If they turned a more skeptical eye to some of [Gabe] Thompson’s inventions, edited the menu to about two-thirds its current length and focused harder on the execution of what remained, they’d have an excellent restaurant.” [NYT]

L’Artusi’s décor has an identity crisis, complains Shauna Lyon, who likes many of the “pleasing crudos” and “sublimely rustic pasta.” [NYer]

“What La Superior lacks in interior design, it makes up for in good food,” says Robert Sietsema, who wishes everything were just a little spicier. [VV]

After the critics have passed through and the shine of newness dulls, Steve Cuozzo returns to Corton and finds it “even better than it was last fall.” [NYP]
Related: Corton’s Menu, Illustrated

Ryan Sutton pits Anthos against Kefi: “It’s like coach class vs. business. Kefi might be cheap, but in truth, Anthos is the better value. And the airline metaphor is appropriate because Kefi is as customer-friendly as steerage.” [Bloomberg]
Related: Kefi's Menu, Illustrated