IN RECENT weeks I have talked about some of the confusing issues in culinary names. For instance, the difference between globe artichokes and Jerusalem artichokes.

Noting that the season for crayfish is about to start, I remembered from my days as chef of the hot fish section at the Savoy about the confusion between crayfish and crawfish.

Both are shellfish, although the former is quite small, resembles a small lobster and inhabits freshwater streams, and the latter is bigger, found in the sea, and is in fact larger than a lobster, and often called spiny lobster or rock lobster because of its rough shell, long antennae and lack of claws.

Another confusing crustacean is scampi. The Dublin Bay prawn, the largest British prawn, is also known as scampi, along with langoustine, the larger of which are also sold as scampi. Another shellfish that can be misleading is the oyster, although this is a mollusc, not a crustacean.

The smooth, saucer-shaped Whitstable native, as with the French variety, Belon, can only be eaten when there is an 'r' in the month, whereas the Portuguese, or rock oyster, with the rough, uneven shell, can be eaten all year round.

The reason for this is that the former variety produce eggs in the close season, which are stored inside the shell, whereas the latter lay their eggs outside the shell.

Biology lesson over. Now on to the cooking.

Crayfish Risotto

Serves four

Crayfish are quite small, with the tail meat being, realistically, the only edible part. The shells though, can be pounded and used to make a sauce. You can buy ready-cooked tails, usually in brine, and you will need 50-60g per person.

Ingredients

* 24 cooked crayfish, shells removed

**1tbsp olive oil **25g finely chopped onion

**100g Arborio rice

**200ml chicken stock

**25g grated Parmesan cheese

**1 pinch saffron strands

**1 tsp chopped tarragon

**Salt and pepper

Method 1) Cook the onion in the olive oil for 2-3 minutes without colour.

2) Add the rice and cook gently for 2-3 minutes without colour.

3) Meanwhile, boil the stock and add the saffron, allowing it to infuse. Add the stock, a little at a time, stirring until it is absorbed. Season lightly.

4) Continue adding the stock until it is all used, and allow to simmer, stirring regularly.

5) If the rice is not cooked, add a little water. The rice should be creamy, with a little crunch to the taste.