Friday, February 6, 2015

This Week in Patterns (6-Feb-2015)

Happy Friday! This week was a busy one for pattern releases, and maybe it's just my mood, but sadly, I wasn't super excited by any of them. In any case, there are lots of pictures and patterns to dissect in this week's post.

StyleArc - February release

StyleArc's February release was a bit more interesting than their January release, although I don't feel particularly tempted to place an order for this month's patterns/freebie, either.

Because every pattern company seems determined to release a pleated culotte pattern this spring, here's StyleArc's take on the style. I think that these could be interesting, in theory, but I don't see all of those pleats opening up over my (full) tummy possibly being a flattering look on myself.

If I wasn't so ridiculously busty, I'd totally be digging the Saskia bustier. I really like the line drawing for this, and if there was any human way that I could go braless without putting someone's eye out, I'd be looking to give this pattern a try.

The freebie this month is the Dixie woven top. This is probably my favorite/most realistically sewn pattern for myself this month, although I'm not sure how that seam placement would look on someone with a very full bust. This one reminds me a little of my Olive Spliced tee, which I love and was designed for knits. I like the keyhole neckline on this one, too.

StyleArc - Dixie Woven top

Colette Patterns - Seamwork Issue 3

So, with the third issue of Seamwork, Colette patterns jumped on the lingerie/bra-sewing bandwagon that's been going strong in the online sewing community for the past few months. The patterns included in this month's issue are a bralette pattern and a panty pattern.

I'm going to link to these patterns, not because the images are particularly NSFW, but I suspect that some of you work in an open-plan office (like I do) and would probably prefer not to have modeled lingerie pictures show up on your monitor, especially if you work with a bunch of men (like I do). So here are the pattern links:

My G-cups laugh hysterically at the idea of a lounge bra, so I'm clearly not the target demographic for this pattern, even if it is available up to a 3X. The panty is cute, but I prefer a higher rise on my panties, otherwise my tummy flab tends to cause the waistband to fall down, and I spend all day hiking them back up. They're nice ideas, though, I guess for those who can pull off and/or be comfortable in these styles.

Butterick - Early Spring Release 2015

The elephant in the room this week is the spring Butterick release. To be blunt, I hated it. As wonderful as I thought the most recent McCall's release was, I thought that the Butterick release was awful. Let's look at some fug.

I think that the most notable thing about this release is that Liesl (from Oliver + S and Liesl + co) has apparently moved her Lisette line of women's patterns from Simplicity to Butterick. I have to admit, though, that I preferred her designs for Simplicity, as this batch seems a bit uninspired. The best of this lot, to me, is this dress, although I feel like there's something "off" about how it looks on the model.

B6169 is another new Lisette. The moto jacket is okay, but it's nothing that we haven't already seen dozens of times from other pattern lines over the past few years. The dress is a shapeless sack with a hi-lo hem and an optional tie belt. This one is featured in that video that McCall's put out a few days ago, and it didn't do anything for me seeing it on a "live" person, either. Pass.

I'm only calling these two out because they both feature external darts. Weren't external darts in style just a few years ago? Are we really at a point where we're cycling fashion trends every five years? How can we miss you if you won't go away?

Speaking of trends that were around just 10 years ago... Because Spring 2015 is the Spring of the Pleated Culotte, here's the Butterick version of this trend. View C looks awfully similar to the Erin Culottes that Style Arc just released.

I thought that the best pattern out of this whole batch was B6185, a wardrobe pattern featuring a v-neck jacket and a top and dress with Chelsea collars (the collars conveniently fit over the neckline of the jacket). I would maybe pick up this pattern on sale.

We'll cap off this less-than-inspiring collection with what's probably my pick for "worst" out of the batch--the new pattern by Gertie. This is another pattern that features a shelf bra with some sort of ruching or pleating and cuts the model right across the bustline. I just don't know who this would be flattering on--it makes the slim model look completely flat-chested, and I suspect that it would look ridiculous on anyone with a large bust.

B6167

I'm sure who the target audience is for these Buttericks, but it definitely isn't me.

Closet Case Files - Carolyn Pajamas

Whether you like or or not, based on her blog, etc., I have to really hand it to Heather from the Closet Case Files for carving out a really nice little pattern niche of Patterns That Aren't Available Elsewhere. After the semi-unique Bombshell swimsuit, she's released three patterns in a row that don't really have equivalents in current pattern catlogues--the Nettie bodysuit, the Ginger jeans, and now the new Carolyn Pajamas.

In my previous life as a non-sewing, single, professional woman with a little bit of disposable income, I once splurged on a set of BedHead Pajamas as post-breakup retail therapy. Yeah, I paid that much for a set of pajamas. As embarrassed as I was to shell out that kind of cash for pajamas, I LOVED those pajamas. The Carolyn PJs appear to have similar detailing--cuffs, piping, and a feminine, non-oversized silhouette, PLUS they have pockets (both a shirt pocket and slant pockets on the pants, and both summer (shorts and short sleeves) and winter (long pants and long sleeves) options.

Closet Case Files - Carolyn line drawings

I've seen Heather come off as a bit...emotional on blogs, but I admit that much like the Ginger jeans (once I saw them made and modeled on a few curvy figures), I like these quite a bit. I'm pretty sure that in the modeled pics, she's hiding some pocket gape of those slant pockets with the styling/hand positions, though. This one isn't a must-buy for me right now, but I'll be keeping my eyes open for both finished versions by other sewists and possible (cheaper) Big 4 alternatives that I've overlooked with similar details.

Final Thoughts

I can't say that any of these are a "must buy" for me, and some of them are downright awful, I think. I've liked some of Gertie's designs from her books, but she appears to be in a bit of a shelf-bra rut with her Butterick designs. I can't say that I'm really tempted to buy any of the new Buttericks.

I'm not particularly tempted on the StyleArcs, either. Maybe I'll feel differently when I start to see them made up.

The CCF pajamas are a "maybe"--I'm not inclined normally to shell out indie dollars for a pajama pattern; however, the Big 4 pajama patterns that I've made up have all run pretty big and been pretty baggy. I'll wait and see on this one.

Am I missing something with any of these? Also, do any of you plan to hop on board the pleated culotte trend? My feeling is that if I'm going to do it, I'm going to go all out and make that culotte-jumpsuit that Vogue just released. Personally, though, I just don't think that the pleated culotte trend is one that will be flattering on short, stumpy me-with-a-tummy, but I'd love to be proven wrong!

44 comments:

I don't like any of the SA patterns. And yes, the Butterick & SA culottes are twinsies!!!! ;-)

I had some faves out of the Butterick release though and will be stalking my Hancock as I'm sure they will appear soon. Hopefully by the next sale date (Feb 10th?? or something like that?)

When I saw the PJs the first pattern I thought of was S2317. I bought that to make a piped penguin pj set (yes, I have flannel with penguins on it for pjs!). The top is near exact. It's a longer, shirttail style, but the details are spot on.

ThreadCarefully (https://threadcarefully.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/2317-pyjama-top.jpg) did a beautiful set with this pattern and I have stalked it for well over a year, just waiting to sew up my own!

Oh and I feel very "some kinda way" about pleated culottes but something is pulling me towards that Vogue pattern. I already picked it up (because my Hancock is stinking awesome) and *must* own something suitable in stash to give it a shot :)

I also thought the Butterick release was really disappointing. I'll probably get B6169 for the jacket since I don't have a moto jacket pattern yet, but that'll be it for me. I've been wanting to make myself a lush set of pjs, but I already have McCalls 6659, so I'll probably just use that instead. The McCalls pattern is easy to overlook because of their horrible fabric choices, but the line drawings look very promising!

McCall's 6659--that's it! What's horrible is that none of the actual pattern photos actually show the pajamas! That one looks like it's got all of the details of the CCF pattern (except for the pockets on the pants--easy enough to add), but at a much lower price point (if you've got a Hancock or JoAnn nearby).

Yeah, I kind of laughed at Heather's line about being able to wear her PJ's out of the house, but it looks like with the McCall's pattern, like they really did try to style them that way. That listing is an all-around fail for what looks like a pretty promising PJ pattern.

OMG just looked at those McCalls pics. Absolute styling fail. The fabric is waaaaay too busy to see a damn thing. Remember that website that used to do horrible pattern envelopes (well, maybe they still do but I don't remember its URL) ... this would fit right in.

*IF* I was buying culottes, which I'm NOT ... BTDT ... I would prob prefer the SAs because they have nicer pleats/drape. But I'd definitely prefer the price of the Buttericks. Good thing I don't have to decide.

And I am NEVER going to spend that much time making piped pajamas. Even to wear with my peep-toe heels. Hahahahaha!

I think, like you, I'm not overly impressed with the releases this week. But I AM impressed with your detailed post. :-)

Now, off to order and print a PDF HotPatterns for the weekend. Yes, I'm still at work ... why do yo ask? :-)

I just looked again and have decided that if she didn't wear the heels, the hems would be pooling on the floor. Since the bottoms have piping, I guess she didn't want to frog 'em to get a more appropriate PJ length??

I must have the wrong Burdas! I do see pj from time to time in Burda, but the ones I've seen are more sexytime, if you know what I mean. That said, I haven't gotten BWTF as a subscriber for a while so I probably missed something!

I like the Carolyn, but will wait to get it. I think its a classic style with nice options and a less baggy fit (at least based on pics).

I actually like the Simplicity jacket better. But I think that Simplicity styled her designs quite a bit better, in general. What better way to take the fun out of a dress than to make up the sample in a drab brown fabric that doesn't appear to be drapey enough for the pattern?

I actually liked several of the Buttericks, but I am a very thick rectangle or cylinder (boobs, waist, and hips are basically the same measurement) so I'm looking for silhouettes to accommodate that. I like the moto jacket and the dress underneath (although I'm not sure I would put them together), and I like B6185 too. I think both the Connie Crawford patterns have potential, despite their horrible styling in the photos. I also like the pjs (6159). As for pleated anything over my stomach, I can't imagine that looking good. I have a wide pair of black ribbed tencel pants I'm thinking of shortening to be longer culottes, but it's a little hard to figure out what kind of top to wear with them.

That was the issue that I had the last time that culottes were in style (2004-2006-ish?). I had a pair (they weren't pleated) and as a top-heavy person, I had a heck of a time figuring out what sort of top to wear with them that would balance out the volume of the bottom. That, and I have relatively slim knees, huge/athletic calves, and slim ankles, so the length of RTW culottes was an issue for me.

What are these...emotional posts? I must have missed it. Whenever I've "talked" with Heather from CCF on social media or by email, she's been really friendly and kind. Like you said, I think she's managed to come up with some patterns that fill a gap, and I admire that in a sea of indie patterns for loose woven tops! ;) Plus I will always love her for putting a crotch curve on the Ginger jeans that fits my big butt! (Then again, if I'm getting flak online for planning to sew myself knit tanks and pjs pants, who knows what will piss people off about her!) Aside form that - OH MY GOD those plus size sacks are ridiculous!!!! WTF.

I might have my indie ladies mixed up but I *think* Heather did the post that set off or contributed to the crapstorm re testing patterns, "honest" reviews, etc., etc. I don't like or dislike her ... I don't even KNOW her. And I have to admit I'm always mildly entertained when someone posts an opinion on a sewing blog and the world tilts in a new direction. Even when I don't agree with an opinion, I'm still glad it's out there. Sometimes there can be too many unicorns and rainbows IYKWIM.

I don't like being trashtalked in public though, in a way I'll hear about secondhand, and I don't like seeing it happen to other people either. I guess it's hard to strike a balance between honest opinions and public speaking within a small community! (Not here, and not this post, obviously! I'm talking GOMI now...)

I admit to reading GOMI on a semi-regular basis and while some of the commentary there is legit, so much more is ... well ... kind of obnoxiously obvious that the regulars are having a slow week and are stirring up the pot just to see it swirl. (Hello Hams!) I mean, really, why would anyone want YOU to get off the internet or call it a hate-read because you're posting about your PJs? I don't recall your having any ulterior blogging motives or a gun pointed to their hammy heads forcing them to follow you. Plus, you're Canadian ... you don't do guns. Heheh I know it's easy for me to say because, well, I'm not you ... but if I *was* you, I would just laugh it off and navel-gaze away at your PJs or whatever else you feel liking posting about. They'll move on to something/someone else soon enough. And those of us who enjoy your blog and you will continue to do so.

Ok, I thought I replied to this but maybe that one drink went to my head, because I don't see it now! I wanted to say: I took great delight in buying pj fabric today! I was really caught off guard by the criticism (didn't help that I'd had a rough day at work) but in the end I'll have nice pjs, so all ends well! :)

I openly admit to lurking on GOMI (I don't post or have a login, *waves at the hams*), and I agree that while some of the snark is hysterical (the comments about Gertie's new dress had me snickering out loud, but I'm less of a fan towards the catty comments aimed at non-monetized blogs. As bloggers and people with opinions, we ALL do things that someone could make fun of us for. I'm sure that I come off as a HotPatterns "fangurl" at times, but whatever, I like their patterns a LOT. I'm actually muslining one of their older pant patterns right now, and I'm super impressed with some of the drafted details and the fly instructions (of all things), and assuming that the muslin isn't a disaster and that I can get a decent pair of pants out of it, I'll probably write a gushing post about the pattern.

I dislike tracing so much that I just go ahead and cut patterns now. The one I still haven't taped together yet ... but I WILL this morning ... is the HP Sunday Morning Sweatpants. With some luck, and my butt off the interwebs, maybe I'll get to actually wear them on Sunday morning. And I'm really not avoiding the taping so much as cleaning off my sewing table so I CAN tape it together. I had a project stall because I can't find the pattern I wanted to use. And it's not like I have patterns all over. I have a pattern cabinet and they all live in there or in an "on deck" basket on top of it. So I'm cleansing that frustration with some (hopefully) easy sew easy wear knit pants. Gillian - I'm using ponte! :-)

Happy Weekend Michelle - I love these posts and that you do them. What I love more - the commentary! So freaking funny! I think the only thing I really like is that jacket with the lovely collar coming over the top. Too bad I don't wear jackets. g

Meh... Culottes remind me of grandma clothes and I will never sport those... I like the pajamas, but wear nightgowns so I won't be buying those. The buttericks -- the only one I like is the historical Edwardian dress, the rest are as you say fug.