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Looks to me as if he is preventing his board form going over the falls; thus, increasing speedy ability to retrieve his board and claim another wave. This photo displays a surfer who has knowledge, skills and abilities that are cognitively deep. I learned something valuable from this photo; therefore, thanks for sharing.
Cheers,
Adam

Pulled my leash through my stringer doing this about a year ago start of season. Too broke too buy a new one, not smart enough to fix it. It has progressed to a fish from a squaretail in the last year. Probably about time to make the investment!

I bet this picture has a story behind it. If you fancy yourself as a writer and have a good surfing story to tell; e-mail it to surfersmemoirs@live.co.uk You could have a chance of having the story published. Also join Surfer's Memoirs on facebook!!

Great shot, must be strange to be in the lonely place of a wipe out, only to have a photographer below you taking your photo. Do you strike up a sign conversation, smile for the camera, or carry on trying to stop your rail saver from tearing through your swallow tail?

Nice CSI work mate. My guess is he bailed on the wave prior to this one and wasn't able to get his board back before the shot and ducked out grabbed his leash to keep his board for a quick return after the wave passed. Thats what would have been goin thru my mind in that split second.

he is not bailing. I personally think that he went under the wave and let his board go. Cause if he bailed, or fail, there would be a trail of foam following from the top, breaking the surface, like the wave does. He is clean underwater, which means he's been under the water before the wave passed him over. I think thats the explanation. Still an awesome shot!

And why is that significant? Why do people always try and show the world on MSW that they have the biggest balls in the world. It is a forum. Enjoy the pictures - end of story, stop trying to prove that you can surf better / drop in steeper etc. Great picture by the way...

Scarborough can be a nasty little wave on low tide. as i discovered last sunday when i banged my vagina on the sandbank. love this pic too. behind the wave shots like this show a complete different side to surfing.