I have a model JBP82CH1CC GE elect range. (It is from about the year 2005 or 2006 only) About half an hour into baking something the other night, the heat went off, was cooling, and not adding heat (was just slightly warm when I discovered this; not at the 300deg I had it set at).

The rotary switches--(infinite switches I have learned on the internet, they are called)---and the oven control-clock control panel in the center seem to have enough power to light up their indicator lights, and operate the oven temperature target settings, the start button, the timers, the clock setting including the LED (?) lighted panel readings of time, temperature target etc. ----BUT NO actual heating in the cooking, baking-broiling oven areas.

When I noticed the problem, I went thru the controls process to start it the oven baking again, which didn't work. And then tried the Broil setting, which didn't work. ----Then tried each of the range top burners. both on high and low settings. --None worked.

I have tried unplugging and replugging in the range; still no results; and I tried turning the breaker down in the basement off and on a couple of times (with a minute or so between off and on)---that didn't work either.

Since BOTH the oven AND all the range top elements are out of commission, it would seem too much of a coincidence that ALL the 7 or so heating switches and electronic controls went bad at once, but that there must be some other answer---like somewhere in the supply of power to the elements.

(p.s. Is the 220W power connected directly to the various heating elements----it would seem that the switches and electronic oven control board must somehow intervene---------but all of that is way beyond me----I was able to get a wiring diagram and a schematic online, but it only made me feel even stupider. (I would ha-ha, but stove is out and I would like to eat sometime this week, so don't feel very ha-ha!) ----------Thanks for whatever help you can provide, so I can buy some parts, fix my stove. (If I could only cook decently, that would make everything perfect! LOL!)

Check the power.
The lights and control panel run off of half the line but all the elements require the full 240 volts.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

Denman, ----Thanks; I tried turning the breaker on and off, but I'll try it again--and a couple of times.------By slowly do you mean turn it off, then wait a while, or turn it off then back on but just not snapping it off on?

And also, what do you mean by "can loose haft eh line" ?

Thanks again!

Last edited by Younger G : 08-29-2013 at 10:54 AM.
Reason: forgot to address the post

Denman, Sorry! I mis-typed what you said when I posted back to you above. Let me try to be more clear--and with correct typing this time. --I don't understand what you meant by "can loose half the line" ---Could you please explain with a little more detail----and I'm going down to the breaker box to try what you said to try with that. ---Be right back. ---and Thanks! again.

OK, the power coming into your hose is actually two 120 volt supplies that share a common Neutral (L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral) (L just stands for line) but they are 180 degrees out of phase.

In others words when one side is at positive 120 volts, the other side is at negative 120 volts so the [power between them is 240 volts (L1 to L2).
This is what then is used to power things like elements in your stove, dryer and water heater.

Denman, I understand--at least basically conceptually-------So is that why (possibly) that the low voltage things like the switch lights etc may be working, but the high current (?) or voltage parts that actually heat up aren't working? (checking with you to see if my understanding is correct).

Can you tell me how or where---wiring-wise---the switches and oven control touch pad device "get between" the power to the heating elements to switch the power on and off? (I was able to get online a wiring diagram and schematic, published by GE with the stove, but you need a whole education/ professional ability to read and understand them, and I can't make head nor tails of it relative to this problem.

I feel like I'm getting closer to a solution---have spent hours and hours online and etc, looking at videos and reading-----and so I really appreciate your help on this. ....Thanks!

p.s. I tried cycling the breaker a few times slowly as you recommended, but it didn't solve the problem.------yet!!

Last edited by Younger G : 08-29-2013 at 01:36 PM.
Reason: to add the p.s.

So is that why (possibly) that the low voltage things like the switch lights etc may be working, but the high current (?) or voltage parts that actually heat up aren't working?
Yes
Can you tell me how or where---wiring-wise---the switches and oven control touch pad device "get between" the power to the heating elements to switch the power on and off?
I do not have a wiring diagram but can give you some info.
The 240 goes to the control board and then is controlled by two relays (one for broil and one for bake elements).
It also goes to each of the infinite switches that control the stove top elements.
That is why I think it is probably a power problem because it is near impossible for all of these control devices to go bad at the same time.

I can't make head nor tails of it relative to this problem.
There is a simple method to help understand wiring diagrams just use different colored pencils.
Your diagram should have the terminal strip and/or line cord shown on it.
So take a red pencil and just follow/mark the L1 wire.
Then take a green pencil and follow/mark the L2 wire.
That should show you better where they go.

Thanks!
You are welcome I am off to the cottage tomorrow AM for a few days and will not be available. If you need more help it may be best to start e new post with the info so far. Often if the forum is busy others do not look at posts that another regular has replied to.

p.s. I tried cycling the breaker a few times slowly as you recommended, but it didn't solve the problem.------yet!!
A breaker that lost half the line falsely is only one possible cause.
Could also be:
A bad breaker
Bad house wiring
A bad wall receptacle
A bad line cord
Loose or bad wires at the terminal strip
A bad wire in the unit.

Hi Denman, I checked this location thurs nite around 8pm and figured you were off for the night (now I see i was wrong!--thanks for your effort & time! spent on trying to assist me with this problem). and I had to work on Friday 8/30, so am just now looking here (late late 8/30 into the early hours of Sat 8/31.

I hope you've had a great time off/ weekend----and if you come back here when you get back: A big THANKS! again! ---Your latest post above adds more to the list of things I can check/ go thru-----and I feel that, as a result of your help, I am now very close---or at least---on a certain, tho maybe lengthy, path to getting this problem solved. ---Will be working on it on Saturday and Sunday and should be cooking soon. THANKS AGAIN!

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