Monday, December 27, 2010

Not too early to start thinking about a New Year’s Eve dinner menu. This time I asked Chef Vito Bardaro of Mise En Place for suggestions…

He suggested that as an apperitivo I start off with a raw seafood salad with shrimp and prawns, zeppoline, and salmon tartine. Then I should move on to lobster in a sweet and sour sauce as an appetizer.

seafood salad

First course? Spaghetti with clams and piennolo tomatoes of course…The holiday season would be empty without them.

spaghetti with clams and fresh tomatoes

For my second course, I could have baked sea bass, eel and fried cod. I should side it with insalata di rinforzo and broccoli.

fried eel

Time for dessert. Stick with tradition…struffoli, rococo, and panettone!

Saturday, December 25, 2010

Armando Palmieri, from Misen En Place, suggested a few Christmas menu items on his site that I am more than happy to pass along. In addition to the usual Neapolitan menu items, he has added a few alternatives.

One option is a salad with chickpeas, fried salmon, cut into small pieces, rucola and balsamic vinegar.

Another idea is making a salad using granchio a roundelle (or surimi), chopped celery, and shrimp tossed in a dressing of olive oil, lemon juice, and black pepper.

Or a simple dish made with anchovies, also includes those who are fresh on the market already marinated in oil and vinegar and cut inhalf. Put each strip on a lettuce leaf or, if you wish, layering them with diced tomatoes

Or shrimp with an avocado dip. A dip made with avocado, shrimp, mayonaise, lemon, olive oil, and parsley.

For the first course, rissoto with artichokes and shrimp.

For the second course, black sea bass cooked al cartoccio in the oven with vegetables.

For dessert, an amazing dessert layered with custard, cake, and fruit...Trifle.﻿

For the recipes on all these dishes, take a look at Armando Palmieri's web site.

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

This year for Christmas (weather permitting) I’ll be sitting down to a traditional Christmas dinner in Lorton, Virginia with my family. You know, turkey, stuffing, candied yams…

﻿﻿﻿﻿﻿﻿

Chef Francesco Rizzuti

I couldn’t help but think, however, if I was in Italy, what choices I would have for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. I decided to ask a few chefs. One chef was CHIC chef Francesco Rizzuti, Antica Osteria Marconi in Potenza. He shared with me a menu that was rich in fish.

On Christmas Eve he suggested spaghetti with clams, oysters, and lobsters. His Cucina lucana is not complete without baccala…cod. Batter fried cod. Appetizers would include baccala with scarpedde di pasta which are fried together with anchovies or peppers. Cod can also be served a ciuadedda; onions, tomatoes, olive di ferrandina…all stewed together. The sauce can be used for a rich plate of spaghetti saving the cod for the second course. Cod that has been joined by crunchy peppers and pepperoni cruschi. Side dishes? Vegetables? How about fried cauliflower or fried artichokes? How about a vegetable minestrone?

Christmas Day?

Well….the chef recommends chicken…home range, please. Chicken with an egg and sausage stuffing that produces a sauce so rich that it is perfect for homemade pasta; s trascinati , orecchiette or cavatelli. His tradition also calls for pasta al forno…baked pasta…a baked lasagna.

After enjoying your pasta and chicken, oven roasted lamb is next on the menu. A lamb that has been roasted with potatoes arraganante style. That means they have been seasoned with bread crumbs, Pecorino di Moliterno, garlic and parsley.

Dessert? Casatedde: sheets of dough fried and served with honey or cooked must.

Ok...I may miss this year, but I believe I will be spending next Christmas with Francesco...

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

November 2009...the 3rd of November to be exact. I remember that particular day because it was one of my first outings as a ‘blogger’. It was Tintore Day, hosted by Cantine Astroni. Hosted by Campi Flegrei, but starring Tramonti’s wineries. And seated behind a long cherry wood table was Gaetano Bove from Tenuta San Francesco . Since then I have seen Gaetano (and his family) on numerous occasions. I have heard him speak about his Tramonti, high on the Amalfi Coast. I know the stories well, but never grow tired hearing about his territory or his wines. The latest opportunity came just a couple of weeks ago at a wine tasting in Sorrento.

A sunny day in Sorrento…a crisp December day. It had been a busy one for Gaetano. He had spent the day showing buyers from China around…didn’t have time to stop by the house like he wanted…didn’t have time to pick up a dvd with photos of his Tramonti. So he had to describe it with his words…from his heart.

Our first glass was poured…a white. Per Eva. A white wine from Gaetano’s vineyard Vigna di Prete. It is a cru…a blend. A blend of Falanghina, biancolella, and Ginestra. We tasted the 2008 vintage. We tasted, Gaetano spoke. Spoke of a wine that he produces which shows his affection for not only his wife, Eva, but for all the women in his life. Then…from his heart, he dedicated this wine to all women who are the backbone of the family. As I tasted this wine, I thought about a lunch that I attended in Gaetano’s winery last March. (here) The party atmosphere. It was here where I was introduced to his family, his Per Eva. This wine with brilliant straw yellow color. This glass when swirled lightly produced tight arches on the inside of the glass…shared fantastic light fruity aromas. Smooth, fresh, pleasant acidity, well balanced.

Our next glass was 4 Spine Riserva 2006… So here we have a red…a blend of Aglianico, Piedirosso, and Tintore…A red that expresses Tramonti in its own way. A red that produced challenges for this young winery. A red that they, along with enologist Carmine Valentino have worked with to get they wine that they want. Once again, my mind went back to Gaetano’s winery, where 4 Spine paired perfectly with our lunch that day. Perfectly with minestra maritata, pasta e fagioli, polenta with beans, frittata di pasta, salsiccia e friarielle Ruby red…notes of red fruits, tannic, but not overpowering.

Our last glass. A glass of 100% Tintore. Another wine, another experience. E’ ISS 2007. A powerful red from vines dating back to the 1700s. (Vineyards throughout Tramonti; Scavata di Gete, Madonna del Carmine di Campinola, Colle Aveso di Corsano, Pecorari di Capitignano) Vines that are work of art. A grape that tells the history of the area. A wine that speaks for Tramonti …from the heart. Red..dark ruby red. Dark red fruity aromas…tannins that make you stand up and take notice.

Take notice of not only a wine, but a winery. Not only a winery, but a territory. Tramonti. Gaetano Bove’s Tramonti which once again I watched admiringly as he spoke of his challenges, past, present, and future. How he expressed his hopes, his speranza, for Tintore…Tramonti…the Campania area in general. . I have heard Gaetano speak about his Tramonti, high on the Amalfi Coast many times. I know the stories well, but never grow tired hearing about them.

By popular demand, Le Tre Arcate in Piano di Sorrento has organized a lunch rich in tradition for Capodanno prepared exclusively by chef Salvatore Accietto. You can choose from his specialties such as:

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

It was THE party to kick off the holiday season. Mise en Place's Christmas Dinner took place last night at Le Arcate on Via Aniello Falcone in Vomero (Na). A festive menu prepared by the Mise En Place staff

Luciano Pignataro presented his new book, Guida alle piccole cantine della Campania...as we skimmed through the pages, many of the wines included in the book were on hand to try...to enjoy. An even better treat...several of the producers were there, too...

Sunday, December 12, 2010

It was time to go back…or up, I should say. Up about 941 meters above sea level to Nusco. Nusco in Alta Irpinia (Av). To this small and beautiful centro storico with a fantastic view of Irpinia. Back to Vico dello Spagnuolo, 1. Back to Chef Antonio Pisaniello, his wife Jenny Auriemma, and their restaurant La Locanda di Bu.

It was unusually warm this December afternoon, but as soon as I opened the doors, I felt the spirit of Natale…The usual red and white interior was joined by a team of dancing reindeer. Reindeer who reminded me that maybe it’s time to write a letter to Santa Claus…to Babbo Natale…A letter like this one…

Dear Santa,

I’ve been a good girl this year. I’ve worked hard. For Christmas, I’m not asking for much…just a few items that coincidently are found on La Locanda di Bu’s menu.

1) A bowl of bean soup…Warm, creamy bean soup with a small vegetable ball on top.

2) Pumpkin bruschetta. Pumpkin from Jenny’s mother’s garden. Pumpkin that has been marinated in vinegar, then placed on top of lightly toasted bread. A touch of olive oil. I’d like two, please.

3) Zeppoline with broccoli.

4) A broccoli salad, warm, with truffles on top. Underneath the broccoli, I would like to find peppers, anchovies, and warm toasted cubes of bread.

5) Fried ricotta. Not just any ricotta, though. Ricotta from Montella (Av). Crispy on the outside. Then, Santa, it must be placed on a bed of broccoli sauce with a few cubes of pancetta from Venticano. I would like it decorated with aqua di pomodoro, anchovy oil, and potatoes.

6) Spaghetti. A warm plate of Spaghetti di Gragnano. Spaghetti that has been tossed gently in a velvety sauce of peppers and cacciota podolico. A light shower of black pepper on top.

7) Canazzi or ziti with a rich ragu sauce. The sauce must be made with lamb and sausage, then slowly cooked for hours under the watchful eye of Pisaniello.

8) I would also like some dinner rolls. Warm rolls straight from the oven. Rolls that have a potato filling. Or broccoli. Or sweet onions that have been simmered for hours. Perfect for soaking up my pasta sauce.

9) A pork rib. One that has been roasted in Pisaniello’s oven, and laid to rest on a bed of potatoes, apple and pistachios.

10) Flan al cioccolato. A little chocolate cake, just for me. It must be served warm, and as I place my fork in it, I would like melted chocolate to ooze out the middle. On the side, rum ice cream, please. Homemade ice cream, with raisins and a little chocolate.

11) A tray of little pastries. Little pastries starring creme brulè.

12) The sincere genuine smile of Jenny Auriemma as she expertly suggests new wines for me to try, like Greco di Tufo from Cantine Storiche di Marzo.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Il Sapore della Tradizione is Stefano Pagliuca's new location. Stefano comes from a family of passionate bakers who have been producing Canestrelli bread for generations.

The new location is 200square meters, which is divided on two floors. On the ground floor, in addition to the large laboratory for the production of breads, pizzas and a rich tradition of take away food to satisfy the taste of the finest gourmet, we find a room occupied by an inviting window-bench, where , beyond the bread and pizza, you can find fresh pasta and typical products of craftsmanship of the best regional and national traditions.

But if you go down in the basement you run into something singular and unique.

A real wine vault: 100 square meter cellar occupied by wooden shelves in which, laid in strict canonical position, are more than 5,000 bottles, which benefit from an integrated controlled climate, at a fixed temperature of 18 ° and a constant rate of 75% humidity.

Here you’ll find a wide selection of Italian, French, and other international wines. A special corner is devoted to champagne and sparkling wines, spirits and artisan beer.

Stefano will welcome everyone this Saturday at 200 hrs ish. Stop by, grab a glass of wine and something to eat! See you there!!!

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Sorrento in December is spectacular. The streets are decorated with Christmas lights…window shopping is a must, and this past weekend, the Hilton Sorrento Palace hosted a vertical wine tasting that was not to miss…From the Pompeii room on the second floor, with an amazing view of the coast, I found a seat in the front row.

The winery-Marisa Cuomo...located in Fuore (Sa). Andrea Ferraioli brought with him 1 wine... 6 vintages. 6 years of Marisa Cuomo's beloved Fior D'Uva 2000-2005. Wines to observe, breathe in, taste, and discuss. As beautiful images of the vineyards and cantina were displayed in the background, Andrea shared the background of this wine, which is now made with 3 grape varieties; fenile, ginestra, and ripoli. These grapes that grow in a rocky chalky soil, and are kissed by the salty sea breezes of the coast. Three grapes that produce a wine that has won numerous awards and recognition. This wine that would play part in a wine tasting that, on this particular day, would be led by the delegate of Ais Sorrento Peninsula Giannantonio Aiuolo, Ais Campania President Nicoletta Garguilo, and Luca Gardini who was recently voted the Best Sommelier in the World.

I strongly believe that each wine tasting is an opportunity to learn…to grow. Here was a big opportunity…

So we began. A trip that would take us through 6 years of Fior D’Uva…We started with the 2005 vintage and made our way to 2000 with each sommelier alternating between vintages. As each wine was poured, it was hard not to notice the beautiful straw yellow color in each glass. As we tried the 2005 with Giannantonio Aiuolo, together we swirled our glasses, observed the narrow arcs that formed and the tears that slowly rolled down the inside.

Nose to the glass...each glass presented its own gift of aromas; intense, fruity, herbal, mineral, aromas of the sea, nutty...Luca Gardini held my attention as he performed the olfactory examination. As he approached my table, set his glass down and concentrated on the wine. He carefully, but effortlessly choose the words to describe it. Language that was easy to follow…easy to understand. I appreciated that. He helped us to note the exotic fruit aromas in the 2003 vintage and pointed out the complexities. And when he tasted...he shared how it was creamy, round, full. How you could practically chew this wine...how it really spoke for the territory.

Nicoletta Garguilo presented the 2004 vintage in her style. She noted how this wine was sapid, flavorful…fresh. She really led us through this tasting and at one point, before we tried our 5th wine, recommended that we drink water and eat a little bread to clean our mouth of the acidity so that we could move on. On to the 2001 vintage, she pointed out aromas such as artichokes, fruits, nuts, and then that salty marine aroma at the end. She helped me to understand how this wine, from an extraordinary year, had different aromas than the rest. How it was well balanced.

And then it was over. A time to reflect. A time to appreciate. Apreciate a wine. One wine…six vintages. And a wine tasting that focused on the wine that brought us into the glass, into the territory.

Thursday, December 2, 2010

I quickly skimmed over an email from a friend of mine inviting me to a wine tasting…another wine tasting. Naples has had more than its fair share the past few months. But something about this one was different. I looked closer. No…no…this one would be different. This one would take me to Irpinia by way of Sannio and Caserta. This one would be held in the warm, inviting PDM della Gran Caffetteria in Napoli’s living room…Piazza dei Martidei. This one would be personal, intimate. Three wineries…5 wines, all under the umbrella of enologist Vincenzo Mercurio.

Three wineries, each coincidently recipients of Duemilavini 2011 5 grappoli awards. 5 grappoli-the highest recognition given to a wine by Ais (Association of Italian Sommeliers). Campania received 13…3 belong to wineries that work with Vincenzo Mercurio.

I grabbed my copy of Duemilavini to take a look at what I would be in for that cool rainy evening, and then I was out the door.

I Favati-Irpinia…Cesinali to be exact. I started off with a white wine. The only one at the table that evening. But what a white…. Fiano di Avellino Pietramara 2009 (5 Grappoli)…

Fattoria La Rivolta. Torrecusco-Benevento. An area that I realized I have neglected in my vineyard hoppings...A winery worth looking into. And at this particular tasting, aglianico present in two versions. A rosè—Aglianico del Taburno Rosato Le Mongolfiere a San Bruno 2009, and Aglianico del Taburno Terra di Rivolta Riserva 2007 ( 5 Grappoli).

For my last wine, I was back in Irpinia…back to I Favati to taste their Taurasi Terzotratto Riserva 2005.

In between trying wines, chatting with friends, and tasting appetizers, I had a chance to talk with Vincenzo Mercurio. To talk briefly about his role as enologist…the importance that he gives to the territory; how it must be respected, no appreciated. How only in this way can you produce a wine…THE wine that not only represents a winery, but represents Irpinia, Sannio, and Caserta.

It was time to go…I grabbed my last rustico, and made my way to my car. I can safely say that I enjoyed myself. That I tried 5 wines that were new to me. That I spoke with three wineries that proudly represented Campania. That I had a quick chat with an enologist who has made his imprint in Campania as well as throughout southern Italy. And that I definitely have some wineries to investigate in future vineyard hopping appointments…

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Here is a Christmas dinner that you don't want to miss...Mise En Place , THE cooking school in Vomero has organized an end of the year event that is the hot ticket of the season. Dinner with the chefs and staff of Mise En Place...

The wines will be selected by journalist Luciano Pignataro as he presents his new book Guide alle Piccole Cantine della Campania, which will be also your 'Christmas gift'. Wines will be presented by wine consultant Marina Alaimo.

Monday, November 29, 2010

Another wine guide...and another opportunity to test the best wines from Campania and Basilicata...The appointment is for this Saturday in Avellino, at the Auditorium Banca della Campania (Collina Liguorini) . A chance to meet with producers from Campania and Basilicata andto learn about wines and winemakers. A time of celebration and reflection around wines in Campania and Basilicata.
At 1030 there will be a conference entitled "Environment, authenticity and quality. Viticulture ethics is possible, "with the participation of: Roberto Burdese, president of Slow Food Italy, the editor of the guide Giancarlo Gariglio, and Luciano Pignataro, responsible for the Campania, Basilicata and Calabria Regions. Cosimo Lombardi, Large Corporate Banca della Campania, and Lucio Napodano, Slow Food Trust of Avellino. The conference will be chaired by by Gaetano Pascale, president of Slow Food Campania.

Afterwards there will be a chance to try the wines from Campania and Basilicata which have received major awards in the guide. Awards which take into account not only the wines tasted, but also work in the vineyard.

The entrance to the conference is free, access to the tasting at a cost of 27 € (25 € for members) and entitles the tasting of the wines presented, the glass, the glass d pouch and a copy of Slow Wine Guide 2011 .

Last week, during chef Claudio Campanile’s lesson on Naples street food, Romina Sodano, director of Mise En Place, asked Which recipe are you going to put on the blog this week?...And at the same time we both responded with a smile Fritatina di Pasta!…

Prepare a roux with peanut oil and flour. Let it cook for a few minutes and then add boiling milk. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat, add salt and pepper, then let cool. This will be your besciamella needed for the next step.

Cut the prosciutto and fior di latte into small cubes and mix with a portion of the besciamella and put to the side.

Cook the pasta until it reaches the al dente point and place in a casserole dish. Let it cool down and then chop it up into large pieces. Season the pasta with parmigiano, salt, pepper, parsley and remaining besciamella. Mix well so that it is nice and compact. Form into small balls, filling each ball with a little bit of the prosciutto and fior di latte mixture that you prepared earlier.

Prepare a frying batter using 200 ml of water, 2 eggs, yeast , salt, and 300 gr of flour. Dip the balls in the batter, then bread them with the bread crumbs.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

The Camper is back on the road...this time the Basilicata region is Nando and Co.’s destination. This region is rich in interesting but not so well known products. On this shopping trip, they’ll be in search of products such as caciocavallo podolico, salsiccia pezzente, melanzane rosse, as well as visit some interesting local wineries. All to prepare a special menu for Thursday December 2nd at Abraxas Osteria. The menu, to be announced later, will consist of appetizers, 2 first courses, a second course, side dish and dessert. Wine will be provided by Cantine del Notaio- Il Rogito 2006,il Repertorio 2007,l’Atto 2008,la Firma 2007.

Saturday, November 27, 2010

November 25 2010. The fourth Thursday in November. A day where Americans, all over the world, celebrate Thanksgiving. A day to share with family and friends…A day to go home for the holidays…

I decided to do just that..go ‘home’. My home away from home…A16. This time I headed towards Sorbo Serpico…towards Feudi dei San Gregorio. To their Michelin star restaurant Marennà, and to my friend Chef Paolo Barrale.

On this particular cold, rainy autumn day, the staff at Marennà made me feel instantly at home the minute I walked in the door. Angelo Nudo, Marennà’s sommelier , greeted us, took our coats and showed us to our table. Chef Paolo Barrale…Paolone… grinned, waved, and greeted us with a Happy Thanksgiving…No turkey today, he smiles, but I am not disappointed. I knew that whatever would come out of his kitchen would be appreciated…would make me feel comfortable and cozy…make me feel at home.

DUBL Spumante Greco di Tufo 2006 arrives…a toast to the holiday, and we begin. And what a beginning…two appetizers; candele (candle shaped pasta) stuffed with shrimp, along with frutta di mare and spring onions…the second was baccala with a creamy potato and mayonnaise sauce with truffles. Angelo paired our appetizers and first course with Pietricalda Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2009.

Next, Chef Barrale and his team sent out two fantastic firsts from the kitchen…a risotto with salmon cubes sprinked on top (salmon that had been marinated with oranges, lemon and dill) with a shower of lemon peel. Then, my new best friend…ravioli with a turnip and potato filling on a bed of burrata, a soft creamy cheese.

At this point I was about to ask for another glass of Fiano when Angelo set down two glasses on my table. I want you to try these two wines during your second course…okay Angelo, you’re the boss. Primitivo 2008 and Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2002. With a glass of wine in hand, I walked over to the kitchen to watch Paolo at work.

I watched as Paolo led his team of assistants in preparing, plating, and presenting the dishes that would be served next. Dishes such as braised pork with radicchio, turnips, spinach, and truffles. Pork cheek cooked for hours in Aglianico until it becomes so tender that it practically melts in your mouth. This was served two ways…on a bed of creamy potatoes with truffles and with a side of creamy pumpkin.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Amidst the traffic, the chaos, the vicos, the vias, the pizza, the music, the history and the art…it’s there.
You can’t miss it. Neapolitan street food. In perfect harmony with the hustle and bustle of the city. The city that brought us O Sole Mio and Christmas Alley (Via San Gregorio Armeno) brought Napoli a culture of spectacular street food. And at Mise En Place, last Monday evening, Chef Claudio Campanile took us strolling through the Spanish Quarter sharing some of the recipes that make his Napoli Bella…

Claudio presented a wide variety of fried foods, many with a particular batter. Mozzarella in carrozza, fried pizza stuffed with cicoli and ricotta, zucchini flowers, frittatina di pasta, fried zucchini, eggplant, cauliflower, and pizzete d’alghe. He also tossed in a surprise...fried polenta with cicoli...in Naples it’s affectionately called e’ scagliuozz.

That wasn’t the only surprise…in a clear glass bowl, it sat. Musso…the snout of pig. This snout that became part of our insalatina di musso. Add trippa (lemon version, or with tomato sauce), a hot spicy octopus broth and we were set…satiated…satisfied. I saved enough space, however, to finish off this stroll through the sidestreets for our mini babà...no Neapolitan meal is complete without this light piece of heaven soaked in sugar water (and in many cases rum) with a side of whipped cream...

A promise is a promise. And I promised my son David that I would take him to the new Pizzaria La Notizia, back to Enzo Coccia, after the inaguration...after things calmed down, well, calmed down a little.

So, Sunday evening (1930 is the perfect time for families) we pulled up to Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio 94/A and walked in. Before the usual crowd...that did arrive later. Before the beautiful organized Neapolitan chaos...that did show up, David and I had a chance to chat with Enzo...Chat about how he's been, what he has been up to, what he has in store next. But David reminded me that we came for pizza. David wanted the Enzo...a pizza with fresh tomato slices, mozarella and rucula. I opted for one with fresh funghi porcini mushrooms...

Between bites of our pizza, we watched Enzo back in action preparing his specialties like rotolo con ricotta e pezzente (rolled pizza with ricotta and ham from Caserta), pizza al bianco, and pizza with prosciutto cotto.

It was great to be back and smell the aromas from the oven...
It was great to be back and hear the laughter of Enzo's patrons...
It was great to be back...punto.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Muffa Nobile-Noble mold or rot. I heard these words for the first time during my level one sommelier class. Latin words…Botrytis cinerea, a mold that forms inside a grape, and is the goal of any winery who wishes to produce a passito, a dessert wine. A couple of paragraphs in our text book, a photograph on page 164.

I wanted to get up close and personal…to visit a vineyard with grapes still on the vine while this muffa nobile formed. To walk through the rows of vines and pick this sweet fruit off the plant, like a kid in a candy store. I wanted to go back to Montemarano…I really wanted another visit to Mastroberardino’s Aglianico vineyards.

Saturday afternoon, November 13th. Back in Antonio Dente’s SUV after a week of wind and rain in Irpinia. Rain that turned this vineyard’s terrain into a muddy mess. No way a tractor could get through here for the harvest the following week, Antonio shared. Wow…I was here about three weeks earlier. What a difference. First of all, half of the grapes had been harvested about 10 days earlier. Mastroberardino left behind the bunches whose grapes were spread out…whose grapes had room to breathe. Another major difference was that a large quantity of leaves had been stripped off the vines thanks to the weather earlier in the week. From a distance, however, spectacular views of Autumn in Irpinia.

But I came for a look up close. To see, touch, and taste the grapes along with Antonio as he picked up where my textbook left off. He pointed out how the grapes had changed. The bunches that were left behind had become darker, drier, more concentrated. We picked a few from the vine and tasted. Sweet, dolce. That extra time in the vineyard, under the right conditions, with the proper care gave way to what Mastroberardino had hoped for.

My lesson continued. These grapes would be harvested, and laid out to dry in a room under carefully controlled temperatures and climate. Here the grapes will continue to lose water and become more concentrated, sweeter. Here the grapes will spend at least 1 ½ months before they continue their trip to becoming one of two aglianico passitos that Mastroberardino has in mind. This Aglianico, a very sensitive grape, was on its way to give their Aglianico DOC Irpinia Passito the desired sweetness, the aromas similar to balsamic vinegar and dried figs. Antonio looked satisfied.

There was another vineyard he wanted me to see. Santo Stefano, Fiano di Avellino grapes. I thought that these grapes had already been harvested, but Antonio let me in on a little ‘secret’. An experiment. Three rows of Fiano were left behind after the October 29th harvest. Left behind to form that muffa nobile. Here it was easy to tell by looking what was going on inside the grape. Here the grapes were turning brown, becoming sweeter. A few tastes confirmed this.

It was getting dark, so back in the SUV. On the drive back to the winery, I was trying to absorb all the information Antonio shared with me that afternoon. Now that I better understood this muffa nobile, I was very interested in knowing how all this hard work would look like, smell like, and taste like in a glass…

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Chef Marcello Valentino presented a Sicilian street food menu last week at Mise En Place that included this tasty sandwich. Not your typical ingredients, but it was so good that after eating two, I wanted a third!

Procedure
Boil the spleen and lung until they are tender. Let cool at room temperature. Afterwards, cut into thin slices and sautè in hot strutto. Add a little salt and pepper. You may also add lemon juice or ricotta (made from sheep's milk).Serve on a toasted sandwich roll.

Friday, November 12, 2010

My third visit to Mise En Place brought me face to face with Sicilian chef Marcello Valentino. A chef who led us through the streets of Palermo…introduced us to a menu rich in history…a menu that proudly displayed Sicily’s street food and cous cous.

I took a quick glance at the recipes included in my Mise en Place Kit…just to get an idea of what was up ahead. Chef Valentino, however, gave us much much more. Many in the class pulled out their pads and pens to write down…capture every tidbit of advice…suggestions…neat little pearls of wisdom.

Cous cous was up first. Marcello explained the various ways to cook this ancient dish including a toasted cous cous version that he came up with about 5 years ago…

Sicily has a rich street food culture…full of flavor…full of surprises. One of those surprises came between two pieces of bread, smothered in ricotta cheese. Milza and polmone…spleen and lung. A spleen sandwich. Don’t judge a book by its cover our Sicilian chef said…….It was amazing. The recipe will hit the blog soon.

No lesson at Mise En Place is complete without wine. This week it was Cantine Olivella who paired these dishes with their Katà (100% Catalanesca) and Lacrimanero (Piedirosso, Aglianico, Olivella). These wines were perfect with Marcello’s buffet full of the items that we prepared as well as surprises such as tripe and fishballs.

I sat down, relaxed with a glass of wine and a plateful of Sicily. I talked and laughed with friends. Marcello continued to give more tips, recipe and buffet ideas…I lost count at this point. I glanced over his shoulder, out the window at the wind and pouring rain that hit Naples that evening.

Inside, however, I was warm…comfortable. I was in Sicily, walking through Palermo. I was resting on a bench, on a street corner enjoying my cous cous…my street food…and the company of my new Sicilian friend, Marcello Valentino.

One of the best things about cooking classes at Mise en Place is the kit full of recipes. Here is one by Chef Nicola Di Fillipo (La Laterna).

Ingredients

500 g paccheri (pasta)

2 tablespoons anchovy sauce

400 g of Provolone del Monaco

Extra virgin olive oil

500 g cherry tomatoes

2 cloves of garlic

200 grams of nuts from Vesuvius

Basil leaves

100 grams of grated parmigiano cheese

Procedure

Wash the tomatoes and crush them with your hands. Make a sauce with olive oil and crushed garlic.
A part of the sauce will be saved and used to add to the al dente pasta. Dice some of the provolone to add to the al dente pasta. Thinly slice some that will be added to the dish before serving.

Cook the pasta in boiling salted water. Drain and toss in the pan with the tomato sauce. Add the diced provolone, 2 teaspoons of anchovy sauce, parmigiano cheese and toasted grated nuts from Vesuvius.

Sunday, November 7, 2010

One more stop…One more vineyardAntonio Dente tells me. Stop three on a vineyard hopping voyage that had me in Pompei in the morning, Montemarano in the early afternoon, and now…? Now we were off to Santo Stefano for the Fiano di Avellino harvest. Fiano grapes destined to become Mastroberardino’sRadici Fiano di Avellino DOCG.

Sunset in Santo Stefano is spectacular. I hopped out of Antonio's SUV and walked through the rows of vines in silence. A cool breeze, low hum of the tractor, and rustling leaves were my company.

Beautiful golden Fiano grapes…grapes that could stay out and play longer than their cousins in Lapio due to this vineyard’s location. 550 meters above sea level…south - west sun exposure...sandy soil, rich in minerals…

I could envision this Fiano in a glass a year from now. Visualize its straw yellow color. Smell its fresh aromas such as peach and fresh flowers.

I looked around for my guide Antonio. He was busy with the boss. Antonio Mastroberardino, the head of the winery. Mr. Mastroberardino in the vineyards for his 64th harvest.

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About Me

After living in Naples for over 20 years, I feel like the Campania region is my home. As any good hostess, I love ‘inviting’ people over. I invite you to get out and learn the language. I invite you to mingle with the locals. I invite you to visit the museums and galleries. I invite you to try the wine and local cuisine. I invite you to learn the history and visit the local festivals. That is the spirit behind my Andiamotrips blog. I hope you like it!