The system is not yet available.....in about a week the complete system is supposed to be available....they had some problems with delivery of one or two parts. I have a number of systems on order, so I'm also keen to see how the system performs!

I hate always keeping the revs up to make sure "I'm charging". Plus when I use my heated vest I'm always cycling it on and off 'cause I'm worried about not having enough juice. This thing looks like it might spell the end to charging system capacity concerns. It also looks simple and pretty heavy-duty. Cheaper and possibly better than the Omega.

Well, my kits arrived. The build quality looks very good. The stator is a ducati modified item, the voltage regulator/rectifier is a standard Guzzi item. There are some nice milled clamps to hold the windings to the engine block. That's the good news. The not so good news is it'll take a lot more work (and time) to install compared to the Omega. Hopefully the kit will be developed (soon) to make it a simpler install.

Will you share your installation with some pics & descriptive narrative?
I'm interested in how this set-up goes for you. There are aspects of
the Omega that I'm not excited about & I think that myself & others
would appreciate your efforts to school us. TIA

Well, I've fitted the first unit. The final result is quite neat - not my installation, but the simplification. The timing chest is now half empty. There are a lot less wires floating around inside the cover. The other major bonus is no brushes to think about. The quality of the parts looks to be very good.

The challenge with the installation is that because it's new it hasn't been customized for each bike. At the moment you get all of the parts and you have a bunch of wiring to do yourself. I know that this is going to get refined as we give feedback and install notes to John at euromotoelectrics. Things I had to do for example - shorten the screws that mount the field windings, get a few connectors, fiddle with the wiring (both the main bike loom and some of the removed items which are re-used). Over time I'm sure that this will all be taken care of by the supplier, but at the moment they have to send out a bunch of parts and have the buyer customize the fitting.

The early customers will also need to figure out a suitable mounting location for the combination regulator/rectifier unit. I mounted mine upside down on the relay plate (it's an 89 GS, with a 92 wiring loom!). I moved the relays to the front of the plate. I needed to drill a couple of holes, add a couple of spacer washer at the rear and clean off some paint for a good earth. In this location it should get good air circulation.

I've sent a bunch of suggestions to John about bike specific changes to his instructions. His notes at the moment as slightly confusing, but there are some good wiring diagrams which help clarify things.

Well, I've fitted the first unit. The final result is quite neat - not my installation, but the simplification. The timing chest is now half empty. There are a lot less wires floating around inside the cover. The other major bonus is no brushes to think about. The quality of the parts looks to be very good.

Click to expand...

Good stuff! I've just ordered a kit myself, hopefully it'll be ready
to ship soon ...

Change instructions to remove ALL old wiring, including the red lead (double width spade) from the starter - it's redundant.

The following apply to the mini loom you removed that connected to the old voltage regulator, starter motor, etc
-----------------------------------------------------
Take the removed little loom and carefully cut open the black sheathing.

Remove the big rubber grommet that goes through the top of the timing cover and fit to field winding cable - the two yellow wired cable attached to the field coils. I used WD40 to help slip it off without splitting it.

Seperate from the bundle the two spade (blue and black wires) connector with its two wires still attached.

The Black wire should have the single spade that goes to the starter solenoid still attached.

The blue wire that was cut above now needs to be connected to the white wire of the reg/rect unit.

When you come to do the assembly the black wire can be squeezed in to the rear large rubber gromet at the top of the timing chest and reconnected to the starter solenoid.

..............end of mini loom instructions.....

Here's what I did for connections - the kit is a bit underdeveloped at the moment regarding specific bike hook-ups:

I used a two pin waterproof connector - got it off the trailer wiring shelf at the local auto store - for the field windings (the two yellow wires - this means the field windings can be disconnected later if it needs to be removed/replaced.

I hard wired the blue wire to the white reg/rect unit. Per above

For the wire from the reg/rect unit that needs to go live with ignition I did the following:
I carefully cut open the bike main loom just below/behind the steering head, where there is a main 4 pin connector. Inside the sheathing behind this 4-pin connector there is a large crimped junction of 4 green wires - all go live with the ignition switch. I soldered a fresh green wire (from the kit) to this bundle and then wrapped it up again with waterproof insulation tape. You will need a heavy duty soldering iron to provide enough heat for this. To the other end of this new green wire I attached a female spade. To the black wire off of the reg/rect unit I attached a male spade. Then these two were connected - add some of the electrical grease from the kit.
The red wires - I just soldered the orange fuse wire (from the kit) and shrink wrapped, and added the solder ring for the battery.

Notes on physical install.

The reg/rect mounting required a pair of relays to be relocated - there are existing mounting points available. I mounted the reg/rect upside down with the wires pointing towards the frame. I drilled a couple of holes for the mounting and cleaned off the paint around the mounting bolts to ensure a good earth. I added a couple of washers at the rear mounting to space it off as it would interfere with the main frame otherwise. I re-painted the mounting area after fitting to keep the earth good and free of corrosion.

Change instructions to remove ALL old wiring, including the red lead (double width spade) from the starter - it's redundant.

The following apply to the mini loom you removed that connected to the old voltage regulator, starter motor, etc
-----------------------------------------------------
Take the removed little loom and carefully cut open the black sheathing.

Remove the big rubber grommet that goes through the top of the timing cover and fit to field winding cable - the two yellow wired cable attached to the field coils. I used WD40 to help slip it off without splitting it.

Seperate from the bundle the two spade (blue and black wires) connector with its two wires still attached.

The Black wire should have the single spade that goes to the starter solenoid still attached.

The blue wire that was cut above now needs to be connected to the white wire of the reg/rect unit.

When you come to do the assembly the black wire can be squeezed in to the rear large rubber gromet at the top of the timing chest and reconnected to the starter solenoid.

..............end of mini loom instructions.....

Here's what I did for connections - the kit is a bit underdeveloped at the moment regarding specific bike hook-ups:

I used a two pin waterproof connector - got it off the trailer wiring shelf at the local auto store - for the field windings (the two yellow wires - this means the field windings can be disconnected later if it needs to be removed/replaced.

I hard wired the blue wire to the white reg/rect unit. Per above

For the wire from the reg/rect unit that needs to go live with ignition I did the following:
I carefully cut open the bike main loom just below/behind the steering head, where there is a main 4 pin connector. Inside the sheathing behind this 4-pin connector there is a large crimped junction of 4 green wires - all go live with the ignition switch. I soldered a fresh green wire (from the kit) to this bundle and then wrapped it up again with waterproof insulation tape. You will need a heavy duty soldering iron to provide enough heat for this. To the other end of this new green wire I attached a female spade. To the black wire off of the reg/rect unit I attached a male spade. Then these two were connected - add some of the electrical grease from the kit.
The red wires - I just soldered the orange fuse wire (from the kit) and shrink wrapped, and added the solder ring for the battery.

Notes on physical install.

The reg/rect mounting required a pair of relays to be relocated - there are existing mounting points available. I mounted the reg/rect upside down with the wires pointing towards the frame. I drilled a couple of holes for the mounting and cleaned off the paint around the mounting bolts to ensure a good earth. I added a couple of washers at the rear mounting to space it off as it would interfere with the main frame otherwise. I re-painted the mounting area after fitting to keep the earth good and free of corrosion.

I'm sure the reg/rect items can be had elsewhere, but I'm not sure what good it would do you, unless you wanted to replace the stock BMW items with a single more modern alternative.

You could probably source the field windings and maybe also the rotor, but then you'd have to machine the rotor to fit the BMW shaft/seal. You would also have to manufacture the mounting frame for the windings to attach to the engine.

Overall I think the system is very reasonably priced (expect the price to go up in the not too distant future), when you consider the cost of components, machining and development.

The only area of potential weekness I can see with the system (like other higher wattage upgrades) is the additional weight of the rotor vs stock. I'll try to weigh all three (Stock/400/450) and post the info. But I think experience has shown that the weight increase hasn't been a problem for the front bearing.

I think theres a Bosch automotive equivalent to that for somewhere around 25% of the price. I'll see if i can find out...

Click to expand...

I used to work for Bosch USA; there is no equivalent from Bosch utilizing thyristors for rectification. This unit in manufactured by the original equipment supplier DUCATI ENERGIA and sells for considerably more thru dealership networks than the $129.00 replacement cost.

I'm sure the reg/rect items can be had elsewhere, but I'm not sure what good it would do you, unless you wanted to replace the stock BMW items with a single more modern alternative.

You could probably source the field windings and maybe also the rotor, but then you'd have to machine the rotor to fit the BMW shaft/seal. You would also have to manufacture the mounting frame for the windings to attach to the engine.

Overall I think the system is very reasonably priced (expect the price to go up in the not too distant future), when you consider the cost of components, machining and development.

The only area of potential weekness I can see with the system (like other higher wattage upgrades) is the additional weight of the rotor vs stock. I'll try to weigh all three (Stock/400/450) and post the info. But I think experience has shown that the weight increase hasn't been a problem for the front bearing.

Click to expand...

The permanent magnet rotor of the EnDuralast System is actually -3.0 ounces lighter than the upgraded conventional Bosch-style coil rotor (or about -9% LESS)

I hope you have sized your rectifier/regulator components better than the jap bike makers - they suffer reliablity problems with them - mainly SCR hot spot shorts if I understand correctly.

Click to expand...

G'day Frank,

Honda does seem to be doing their utmost to destroy their reputation for reliability by tucking their regulators in the most unlikely places ... the older bikes always used to have them out in the breeze, and never suffered this problem. VFR owners who've improved their heatsinks don't seem to have the problem any more, either.http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/6198/reg-rect.html

I reckon Honda are just jealous of BMW's fine work in mounting
semiconductors _inside_ the engine casing .

I reckon Honda are just jealous of BMW's fine work in mounting
semiconductors _inside_ the engine casing .

Click to expand...

Keeps their friends at HPN in business. They cut the al off the top of the motor and mount the electrics around the starter motor.

MotoGuzzie have the same alternator - they put their electrics out of the motor (including the diode board). And with the heavier guzzie flywheel don't have the rotor failure rate of airheads (the 'newer' ones with the light flywheel - about 1975 on I think?).