Fernandina is the youngest and westernmost
island in the Galapagos. It sits across the
Bolivar Channel opposite Isabela. Our destination
was Punta Espinosa, a narrow spit of land
in the northeast corner of the island, where
a number of unique Galapagos species can
be seen in close proximity. As we navigate
the reef, penguins show off by throwing themselves
from the rocks into the water. Red and turquoise-blue
zayapas crabs disperse across the lava shoreline,
while herons and egrets forage through the
mangrove roots. The dry landing is set in
a quiet inlet beneath the branches of a small
mangrove forest. A short walk through the
vegetation leads to a large colony of marine
iguanas -a schoolyard of Godzilla's children,
resting atop one another in friendly heaps
along the rocky shoreline, spitting water
to clear their bodies of salt. Nearby, sea
lions frolic in a sheltered lagoon. This
is one of the few places you can glimpse
iguanas grazing on seaweed underwater.

Dominating this landscape from high overhead
looms the summit of La Cumbre, 1495 meters
(4,858 feet), one of the most active volcanoes
in the world, reporting seven eruptions from
its 6 kilometer wide caldera (mouth) since
1968. Farther down this stretch off shore,
the world's only species of flightless
cormorants have established their colony
near an inviting inlet frequented by sea
turtles. Because these birds evolved without
land predators it was easier to feed on the
squid, octopus, eel and fish found in the
ocean so the cormorants progressively took
to the sea. They developed heavier, more
powerful legs and feet for kicking, serpent-like
necks, and wet, fur-like plumage. Their wings
are now mere vestiges. Back toward the landing
and farther inland, the island's black
lava flows become more evident, forming a
quiet, inner lagoon. Galapagos hawks survey
the entire scene from overhead.