What method/pattern do you use if you have a monopod using the Nikkor 10.5 mm ?

I use a Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 on top of the monopod.
I do the method of Klaus from the Kolor Forum, pitch -15° to reduce the nadirhole.
But rotating 90° up for the zenith does not work correctly because it does not rotate around the nodalpoint. I always get bad stitching results that way.

Do I have to freehandshot for the zenith and nadir ?
Maybe I missed some basics ?

Maybe the Nikkor 10.5 was the wrong decision ?

I've a Nikon D5100.

Kind regards
Alain

05-03-2013, 11:26 PM

hindenhaag

4 Attachment(s)

Hi Alain, welcome to the forum.

To get it closer to NPP, you should try to come back to your original NPP.

You can use the Zenith position of your R1. First measure the "horizontal distance" from the NPP moves to the new position. Then measure the distance in height. What you have to do is to "remove" the position in height by raising the pole and to move the pole sideways about the amount of distance in the horizontal. So come down with your camera, raise the pole and move it forward and go up again and shoot your zenith.

10.5mm is the right lens. What we do is to shoot 10 -12 mm in front of NPP, that means we move camera forward inside the clamp. This will reduce the Nadir as well. But it will change NPP.

Tape the new height on the pole so you know how much you have to raise. So you have to shoot in lower position to have space to raise the pole for your zenith. You have to train a little bit to handle your pole till you succeed.

Sucess,
Heinz

05-04-2013, 07:12 AM

_Alain_

Thank you Heinz for those instructions.

I don't understand why such an expensive extension like the Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 does not rotate around the nodalpoint.
Wouldn't it make more sence to rotate around the nodalpoint ?

Kind regards
Alain

05-04-2013, 07:38 AM

DennisS

Alain,
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As with anything you want to do, if you do not use the right equipment for the job you will not get the best results.
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The Ultimate R series is desinged for fisheye lenses that do not require pivoting up or down. The camera/lens combination you are using requires pivoting the camera up in order to get the Zenith shot.
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In order to get the camera close to the original NPP you have to do a bunch of adjustments. Pivot the camera back, raise the tripod center column and shift the tripod over. Unless you are very accurate in your movements you will never get the camera back to the original NPP.
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The NN5 type of pano head is what you should be using. All you do is pivot up and the NPP is maintained. Pivot back down and you are good to go for the next pano.

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I also do monopod shooting. I use a Sigma 8mm on my NEX-7 (APS-C sensor) and a Tokina 10-17 on my D800 (full frame sensor). The R1 (and R10) are set to 5 degrees up tilt. I shoot 4 pictures around at 90 degrees. The Zenith is covered. A hand held Nadir patch shot completes the sphere.
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You need to either change your lens or your pano head. If you must stick with your camera/lens, get a NN5 type pano head and use a tripod. If you must use a monopod, get a Sigma 8mm lens. Your combination is not ideal for shooting panoramas.
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Dennis

05-04-2013, 08:28 AM

_Alain_

Then my Nikkor 10.5 lense is not right like Heinz said ?
Why does Nodal Ninja sell lenserings for Nikkor 10.5mm while it's not perfect for the Ultimate R1 ?
Why is there not at least a hint that this combination is suboptimal ?

Kind regards
Alain

05-04-2013, 10:07 AM

hindenhaag

1 Attachment(s)

Alain,

It is development of design during all the years. R1 was designed for a very small and light panohead for use outside. In case their is everything far away like the sky outside, there is no need to shoot the Zenith in NPP. Like with longer lenses for example 300mm.

In the meantime we have the RS-1 to shoot in- and outdoors in NPP. But it has a bigger size including a lower rail.

Development in design goes on and on and Nick is following our wishes.

Your lens is the best you can get specially designed for DX camera for 6 shots around. The optical quality is very good.

Dennis is the king of the monopod. He is specialized to shoot with it without taking a zenith shot. It's covered by tilting up 5°. He is used shooting the nadir handheld.

I own a 10.5mm lens which I have shaved to use it on D3 with 4 shots around. As well as a 16mm lens for 6 around. So I use the 10.5 in case I have a "hurry to shoot", the 16mm lens when I go for better information. So there is always need for different lens rings. That's why NN sells them.

What lens you want to use with a camera, depends on your own favorite style to shoot different panos.

You asked if your lens would be ok and I answered with yes.

Heinz

05-04-2013, 10:25 AM

DennisS

Alain,
.
For the way you want to shoot, your combination is not the best. There is nothing wrong with your camera/lens/ring clamp. It is the pano head that is not optimum.
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The Nodal Ninja line of panorama heads has evolved to become very modular. Parts have become interchangeable over the years. This is a very good thing. I pushed for quite a while for Nick to develop the lens ring clamp system for use on pano heads other than the R1 series.
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Here is the 10.5 lens ring clamp in action on the M1 series:
.http://www.dlsphoto.net/M1PanoHeadMods/DH1_7838.JPG
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Here is the Sigma lens ring clamp in action on my own version of the R1 pano head:
.http://www.dlsphoto.net/NadarBracket/Detail.jpg
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Two different style pano heads, same style lens ring clamp.
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You can use your current setup for single row panos without issue. The issue come when you want to pivot up and down. Other pano heads are better suited for the task.
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Why did Nick develop the Zenith/Nadir adapter for the R1 series? Because enough users requested it. It is not the best solution but it is answering a question many users asked.
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The Nadir adapter for the NN5 style pano head is another result of Nick responding to users requests.
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As your needs change you will be glad that the Nodal Ninja line of pano heads is becoming more and more modular.
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Dennis

05-04-2013, 10:20 PM

_Alain_

Thanks Dennis and Heinz for that additional information.

For me, as a beginner, I would be thankful if there would be at least a hint on the NN website and in other online shops like the kolor.fr where I bought the R1, that, in combination with the Nikkor 10.5, the R1 is NOT made for spherical panoramas.

I do both, interiors and exteriors. I do interiors with the NN 4 on a tripod. I bought the R1 and a monopod to do exterios and interiors when I'm hiking.
If I understand right, in combination with a Nikkor 10.5 I should haven buying ther RS 1 instead the R 1, right ?

Kind regards
Alain

05-04-2013, 11:50 PM

nick fan

Quote:

Originally Posted by _Alain_

Thanks Dennis and Heinz for that additional information.

For me, as a beginner, I would be thankful if there would be at least a hint on the NN website and in other online shops like the kolor.fr where I bought the R1, that, in combination with the Nikkor 10.5, the R1 is NOT made for spherical panoramas.

I do both, interiors and exteriors. I do interiors with the NN 4 on a tripod. I bought the R1 and a monopod to do exterios and interiors when I'm hiking.
If I understand right, in combination with a Nikkor 10.5 I should haven buying ther RS 1 instead the R 1, right ?

Kind regards
Alain

Hi Alain,

Using a full frame fisheye and monopod for spherical panos is really too ambitious. There is no guarantee if using RS1 or using wider fisheye such as Sigma 8mm will work perfectly for monopod shooting.
If you are shooting outdoor pano, using R1 should be fine for Nikon 10.5mm. Try to use -10/-7.5 deg instead to increase the zenith overlap. Parallax is usually not critical for the sky in the zenith.