After a period as a French protectorate, it gained independence in 1949. A long civil war ended officially when the Communist Pathet Lao movement came to power in 1975, but the protesting between factions continued for several years. Forty-four percent of the population lived below the international poverty line of the equivalent of US$1.25 a day according to data from 2006, though the CIA World Factbook currently places this figure at 26%.[4]

Etymology

In the Lao language, the country's name is "Meuang Lao (ເມືອງລາວ)" which literally means "Lao Country." The French, who united the three separate lao kingdoms in French Indochina in 1893, spelled it with a final silent "s," to signify the unity of multiple lao kingdoms, hence "Laos" (the Lao language itself has no final "s" sound, so Lao people pronounce it as in their native tongue though some, especially those living abroad, use the pronunciation ending in "s"). The usual adjectival form is "Lao," e.g., "the Lao economy," not the "Laotian" economy—although "Laotian" is used to describe the people of Laos to avoid confusion with the Lao ethnic group. Since 1975 the official country name is Lao PDR.

History

Laos traces its history to the kingdom of Lan Xang, founded in the 14th century (1353) by Fa Ngum, himself descended from a long line of Lao kings, tracking back to Khoun Boulom. Lan-Xang prospered until the 18th century, when the kingdom was divided into three principalities, which eventually came under Siamesesuzerainty.

In the 19th century, Luang Prabang was incorporated into the 'Protectorate' of French Indochina, and shortly thereafter, the Kingdom of Champasak and the territory of Vientiane were also added to the protectorate. Under the French, Vientiane once again became the capital of a unified Lao state.

Following a brief Japanese occupation during World War II, the country declared its independence in 1945, but the French under Charles de Gaulle re-asserted their control and only in 1950 was Laos granted semi-autonomy as an "associated state" within the French Union. Moreover, the French remained in de facto control until 1954, when Laos gained full independence as a constitutional monarchy.

Laos was dragged into the Vietnam War and the eastern parts of the country followed North-Vietnam and adopted North-Vietnam as brother country. Laos allowed North-Vietnam to use its land as supplying route for its war against the South Vietnam. In response, the United States initiated a bombing campaign against the North Vietnamese, supported regular and irregular anticommunist forces in Laos and supported a South Vietnamese invasion of Laos. The result of these actions were a series of coups d'état and, ultimately, the Laotian Civil War between the Royal Laotian government and the communist Pathet Lao.

In the Civil War the North Vietnamese Army, with its heavy artillery and tanks, was the real power behind the Pathet Lao insurgency. In 1968, the North Vietnamese Army launched a multi-division attack to help the communist Pathet Lao to fight against the Royal Lao Army. The attack resulted in the army largely demobilizing and leaving the conflict to irregular forces raised by the United States and Thailand. The attack resulted in many lost lives.

Massive aerial bombardment was carried out by the United States. The Guardian reported that Laos was hit by an average of one B-52 bombload every eight minutes, 24 hours a day, between 1964 and 1973. US bombers dropped more ordnance on Laos in this period than was dropped during the whole of the Second World War. Of the 260 million bombs that rained down, particularly on Xiangkhouang province, 80 million failed to explode, leaving a deadly legacy.[5] It holds the dubious distinction of being the most bombed country in the world.

After taking control of the country, Pathet Lao's government renamed the country as the "Lao People's Democratic Republic" and signed agreements giving Vietnam the right to station armed forces and to appoint advisers to assist in overseeing the country. Laos was requested in the late 1970s by Vietnam to end relations with the People's Republic of China, leading to isolation in trade by China, the United States, and other countries. The act of socialization has slowly been replaced by the relaxation of economic restrictions in the 1980s and admission into ASEAN in 1997.

Geography

Laos is a landlocked country in Southeast Asia and the thickly forested landscape consists mostly of rugged mountains, the highest of which is Phou Bia at 9,242 feet (2,817 m), with some plains and plateaus. The Mekong River forms a large part of the western boundary with Thailand, whereas the mountains of the Annamite Chain form most of the eastern border with Vietnam. The climate is tropical and monsoon.

There is a distinct rainy season from May to November, followed by a dry season from December to April. Local tradition holds that there are three seasons (rainy, cold and hot) as the latter two months of the climatologically defined dry season are noticeably hotter than the earlier four months. The capital and largest city of Laos is Vientiane and other major cities include Luang Prabang, Savannakhet and Pakxe.

In 1993, the Laos government set aside 21% of the nation's land area for Habitat conservation preservation[citation needed]. The country is one of four in the opium poppy growing region known as the "Golden Triangle." According to the October 2007 UNODC fact book "Opium Poppy Cultivation in South East Asia," the poppy cultivation area was 15 square kilometres (3,700 acres), down from 18 square kilometres (4,400 acres) in 2008.

Laos' first, French-written and monarchical constitution was promulgated on May 11, 1947 and declared it to be an independent state within the French Union. The revised constitution of 11 May 1957 omitted reference to the French Union, though close educational, health and technical ties with the former colonial power persisted. The 1957 document was abrogated on 3 December 1975, when a communist People's Republic was proclaimed. A new constitution was adopted in 1991 and enshrined a "leading role" for the LPRP.

The following year, elections were held for a new 85-seat National Assembly with members elected by secret ballot to five-year terms. This National Assembly, which essentially acts as a rubber stamp for the LPRP, approves all new laws, although the executive branch retains authority to issue binding decrees. The most recent elections took place in April 2006. The assembly was expanded to 99 members in 1997 and in 2006 elections had 115.

The Lao economy is heavily dependent on investment and trade with its neighbors, Thailand, Vietnam, and, especially in the north, China. Pakxe has also experienced growth based on cross-border trade with Thailand and Vietnam.

Much of the country lacks adequate infrastructure. Laos has no railways, except a short link to connect Vientiane with Thailand over the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge. The major roads connecting the major urban centres, in particular Route 13, have been significantly upgraded in recent years, but villages far from major roads can be reached only through unpaved roads that may not be accessible year-round. There is limited external and internal telecommunication, but mobile phones have become widespread in urban centres. In many rural areas electricity is at least partly unavailable. Songthaews (pick-up trucks with benches) are used in the country for long-distance and local public transport.

Subsistence agriculture still accounts for half of the GDP and provides 80 percent of employment. Only 4.01 percent of the country is arable land, and 0.34 percent used as permanent crop land[6], the lowest percentage in the Greater Mekong Subregion.[7] Rice dominates agriculture, with about 80 percent of the arable land area used for growing rice.[8] Approximately 77 percent of Lao farm households are self-sufficient in rice.[9]

Through the development, release and widespread adoption of improved rice varieties, and through economic reforms, production has increased by an annual rate of 5 percent between 1990 and 2005[10], and Lao PDR achieved a net balance of rice imports and exports for the first time in 1999[11]. Lao PDR may have the greatest number of rice varieties in the Greater Mekong Subregion. Since 1995 the Lao government has been working with the International Rice Research Institute to collect seed samples of each of the thousands of rice varieties found in Laos.[12]

Laos is rich in mineral resources but imports petroleum and gas. Metallurgy is an important industry, and the government hopes to attract foreign investment to develop the substantial deposits of coal, gold, bauxite, tin, copper and other valuable metals. In addition, the country's plentiful water resources and mountainous terrain enable it to produce and export large quantities of hydroelectric energy. Of the potential capacity of approximately 18,000 megawatts, around 8,000 megawatts have been committed for exporting to Thailand and Vietnam.[14]

The tourism sector has grown rapidly, from 14,400 tourists visiting Laos in 1990, to 1.1 million in 2005. Annual tourism sector revenues are expected to grow to $250–300 million by 2020.[15]

Demographics

Patuxay was built with USAID funds in Vientiane in the 1960s to celebrate the independence struggle.

In Luang Prabang, a young woman at the time of a Hmong Meeting Festival

A primary school in a village in northern rural Laos

69% of the country's people are ethnic Lao, the principal lowland inhabitants and the politically and culturally dominant group. The Lao belong to the Tai linguistic group who began migrating southward from China in the first millennium AD. 8% belong to other "lowland" groups, which together with the Lao people make up the Lao Loum.

Hill people and minority cultures of Laos such as the Hmong (Miao), Yao (Mien), Dao, Shan, and several Tibeto-Burman speaking peoples have lived in isolated regions of Laos for many years. Mountain/hill tribes of mixed ethno/cultural-linguistic heritage are found in northern Laos which include the Lua (Lua) and Khmu people who are indigenous to Laos. Today, the Lua people are considered endangered. Collectively, they are known as Lao Soung or highland Laotians. In the central and southern mountains, Mon-Khmer tribes, known as Lao Theung or mid-slope Laotians, predominate. Some Vietnamese, Chinese and ThailandThai minorities remain, particularly in the towns, but many left in two waves; after independence in the late 1940s and again after 1975.

The term "Laotian" does not necessarily refer to the Lao language, ethnic Lao people, language or customs, but is a political term that also includes the non-ethnic Lao groups within Laos and identifies them as "Laotian" because of their political citizenship.

The predominant religion in Laos is Theravada Buddhism which, along with the common animism practiced among the mountain tribes, coexists peacefully with spirit worship. There also are a small number of Christians, mostly restricted to the Vientiane area, and Muslims, mostly restricted to the Myanmar border region. Christian missionary work is regulated by the government.

The official and dominant language is Lao, a tonal language of the Tai linguistic group. The written language is based on Khmer writing script. Midslope and highland Lao speak an assortment of tribal languages. French, still common in government and commerce, is studied by many, while English, the language of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), has become increasingly studied in recent years.

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Health

Male life expectancy at birth was at 63.2 and female life expectancy was at 65.9 in 2007 [16] Healthy life expectancy was at 54 in 2006.[16] In 2006, two fifths of the population were not using an improved water resource. [16] Government expenditure on health is at about 4 % of the GDP.[16] Its amount was at US$ 18 (PPP) in 2006.[16]

Religion

Of the people of Laos 67% are Theravada Buddhist, 1.5% are Christian, and 31.5% are other or unspecified according to the 2005 census.[17] The proportion of Buddhists could be as high as 85%; that religion remains one of the most important social forces in Laos[18]

Culture

TheravadaBuddhism is a dominant influence in Lao culture. It is reflected throughout the country from language to the temple and in art, literature, performing arts, etc. Many elements of Lao culture predate Buddhism, however. For example, Laotian music is dominated by its national instrument, the khaen, a type of bamboopipe that has prehistoric origins. The khaen traditionally accompanied the singer in lam, the dominant style of folk music. Among the various lam styles, the lam saravane is probably the most popular.

Sticky Rice is a characteristic staple food and has cultural and religious significance to the Lao people. Sticky rice is mainly preferred over jasmine rice because Lao is the only country with the origin of sticky rice being eaten. There are many traditions and rituals associated with rice production in different environments, and among many ethnic groups. For example, Khammu farmers in Luang Prabang plant the rice variety Khao Kam in small quantities near the hut in memory of dead parents, or at the edge of the rice field to indicate that parents are still alive.[19]

Media

All newspapers are published by the government, including two foreign language papers: the English-language daily Vientiane Times and the French-language weekly Le Rénovateur. Additionally, the Khao San Pathet Lao, the country's official news agency, publishes English and French versions of its eponymous paper. Internet cafes are now common in the major urban centres and are popular especially with the younger generation. However, the government strictly censors content and controls access[citation needed].

Laos[1], formally known as
the Lao People's Democratic Republic (Lao
PDR), is one of the poorest nations in South-East Asia.
A mountainous and landlocked country, Laos shares borders with Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the south, Thailand to the west, and Myanmar and China to the north.

Understand

Thailand promotes
itself as amazing, Vietnam
can well be described as bustling, Cambodia's Khmer temples are awe-inspiring, Myanmar's junta is barbaric...
but the adjective most often applied to Laos is
forgotten. Although there are a few grand (but
relatively unheard of) attractions, those visitors who are drawn by
the laid-back lifestyle and the opportunity to
knock back a few cold Beerlao while watching the sunsets on the
Mekong will simply explain the attraction by revealing that the
true meaning of "Lao PDR" is Lao - Please Don't Rush.

History

Laos is squeezed between vastly larger neighbours. First created
as an entity in 1353, when warlord Fa Ngum declared himself the
king of Lane Xang ("Million Elephants"), the
kingdom was initially a Khmer vassal state. After a succession
dispute, the kingdom split in three in 1694 and was eventually
devoured piece by piece by the Siamese, the last fragments agreeing
to Siamese protection in 1885.

The area east of the Mekong, however, was soon wrenched back
from Siam by the French, who wanted a buffer state to protect
Vietnam, and set up Laos as a unified territory in 1907. Briefly
occupied by Japan in 1945, a three-decade-long conflict was
triggered when France wanted to retake its colony. Granted full
independence in 1953, the war continued between a bewildering
variety of factions, with the Communist and North Vietnam-allied
Pathet Lao struggling to overthrow the
French-leaning monarchy. During the Vietnam War (1964-1973), this
alliance led the United States to dump 1.9 million metric tons of
bombs on Laos, mostly in the northeast stronghold of the Pathet Lao
(for purposes of comparison, 2.2 million tons of bombs were dropped
on Europe by all sides in World War II and unexploded ordinance
still kills at least 1 person and 4 cows a day up there).

In 1975, after the fall of Saigon, the Communist Pathet Lao took
control of Vientiane and ended a six-century-old monarchy. Initial
closer ties to Vietnam and socialization were replaced with a
gradual return to private enterprise, an easing of foreign
investment laws, and admission into ASEAN in 1997.

Despite being just one hour by air from the hustle and bustle of
Bangkok, life in Laos has
continued in much the same way it has for hundreds of years,
although things are now slowly beginning to change. In the mid-90s
the government reversed its stance on tourism, and then declared
1998 "Visit Laos Year" - but despite their efforts and all Laos has
to offer, monks still outnumbered tourists throughout the country.
This is now rapidly changing, with tourist numbers rising every
year. Indeed, Vientiane is a laid-back, yet charmingly cosmopolitan
village.

Despite its small population, Laos has no less than 49
officially recognized ethnic groups. About half of the population
are Lao Loum, "lowland Lao" who live in the river
plains. Officially, this group includes the Lao
Tai, who are subdivided into numerous subgroups. The
Lao Theung (20-30%), or "upland Lao", live on
mid-altitude slopes (officially defined as 300-900m), and are by
far the poorest group, formerly used as slave labor by the Lao
Loum. The label Lao Sung (10-20%) covers mostly
Hmong peoples who live higher up. In today's egalitarian People's
Republic, this caste division has been formally abolished, but it
still persists in real life. There are also an estimated 2-5%
Chinese and Vietnamese, concentrated in the cities.

Laos is officially Buddhist, and the national symbol, the gilded
stupa of Pha That Luang,
has replaced the hammer and sickle even on the state seal. Still,
there is a good deal of animism mixed in, particularly in the
baci (also baasi) ceremony conducted to
bind the 32 guardian spirits to the participant's body before a
long journey, after serious illness, the birth of a baby or other
significant events.

Lao custom dictates that women must wear the distinctive
phaa sin, a long sarong available in many regional
patterns, however many ethnic minorities have their own clothing
styles. The conical Vietnamese-style hat is also a common sight.
These days men dress Western style and only don the phaa
biang sash on ceremonial occasions. Nowadays women often wear
western-style clothing, though the "phaa sin" is still the
mandatory attire in government offices (not only for those who work
there, but also for Lao women just visiting).

Climate

Laos has three distinct seasons. The hot season
is from March to May, when temperatures can soar as high as 40°C.
The slightly cooler wet season is from May to
October, when temperatures are around 30°C, tropical downpours are
frequent (especially July-August), and some years the Mekong
floods.

The dry season from November to March, which
has low rainfall and temperatures as low as 15°C (or even to zero
in the mountains at night), is "high season" (when the most
tourists are in the country). However, towards the end of the dry
season, the northern parts of Laos — basically everything north of
Luang Prabang — can become very hazy due to
farmers burning fields and fires in the forests.

Nong Khiaw- North
of Luang Prabang by 4 hour bus ride or 7 hour slow boat ride, this
area is between beautiful Karst cliffs where you can discover
hilltribe villages, kayak, bike ride, or just hang out in a
relaxing town.

Plain of
Jars - just what the name says, but nobody knows what they are
or why they are there

Si Phan Don -
the "four thousand islands" are nestled within the Mekong near the
Cambodian border

Vang Vieng -
backpacker hangout for spelunking in limestone caves and tubing on
the Nam Song river

Vieng Xai - Remote
cultural oasis and symbolic cradle of Marxism. See the caves where
the Pathet Lao Leaders ran their opperations in defiance of the
West.

Tham
Nong Pafa Cave - a cave discovered in Khammouan Province in
2004; as many as 200 Buddha statues of all sizes have been found
inside

Lao or Laos?

The people call themselves Lao and the language is Lao, so where
did that "s" come from? The answer seems to be a mistranslation
from French: somebody read royaume des Laos ("kingdom of
the Lao people") as royaume de Laos ("kingdom of Laos"),
and the name stuck. The politically correct form of the name,
however, is Lao PDR and, should you have any
incoming mail, using it will increase the odds of it passing the
censors.

Most ASEAN nationalities as well as a few others like Russians,
Japanese and Swiss can enter Laos "visa free" [2]; all
other tourists need a visa in the form of a tourist visa (for one
or possibly two months) issued by a Lao embassy or consulate. A
visa on arrival is also available to most people
entering at the airports in Vientiane and Luang Prabang, as well as the Thai-Lao
Friendship Bridge between Udon Thani in Thailand and Vientiane. When
applying for a tourist visa or to obtain a visa on arrival, one
passport photo is required.

Visas can be obtained in advance from Lao embassies/consulates.
The fee varies by nationality/embassy; US$20 is common. Processing
times also vary; 2-3 days is typical, though you may be able to pay
an extra small amount to receive the visa in as little as one hour.
In Phnom Penh the
travel agencies can arrange the visa the same day (but may charge
as much as US$58) while getting it from the embassy takes a few
days. Getting a visa from the embassy in Bangkok costs around 1400B
for most nationalities, plus 200B more for "same day" processing.
It's cheaper and quicker to get one at the border.

There are Visa-on-Arrival facilities at the international
airports in Vientiane,
Luang Prabang
and Pakse, and at all border
crossings with the exception when entering overland from Cambodia. The cost varies
between US$30 and $42 (if paid with US$ notes; paying with Thai
baht will cost considerably more and border officials will not
accept Lao kip at all). A US$1 "out of office hours" surcharge, and
a small (possibly 10 baht) entry stamp fee, might also be
charged.

Entry permit extensions (sometimes referred to as "visa
extensions") are available from the Immigration Department in Vientiane (US$2 per day)
and via agencies elsewhere in Laos (who will courier your passport
to Vientiane and back again, around US$3 per day minimum of 7
days).

By plane

The international airports at Vientiane and Luang Prabang are served by national
carrier Lao Airlines [3] and a few others,
including Thai Airways [4],
Bangkok Airways [5] (Luang Prabang only) and
Vietnam Airlines [6]. Some seats on
flights of Vietnam Airlines are reserved for Lao Airlines
(codesharing / better price). Pakse is the third international airport, with
flights to/from Siem Reap (Vientiane - Pakse - Siem Reap by Lao
Airlines).

Laos used to be off-limits to low-cost carriers, however Air
Asia now flies to Vientiane from Kuala Lumpur three times a week. Another
cheap option for getting to Vientiane is to fly to Udon Thani in Thailand with discount
airlines Nok Air or Air Asia and connect to Nong Khai and the Friendship Bridge via
shuttle service directly from the airport (40 minutes); from here
Vientiane is just 17 km away.

By train

The long-awaited first link across the Mekong from the Thai town
of Nong Khai to Tha
Naleng near Vientiane
finally opened in 2009. There are two shuttle services per
direction per day, with one timed to connect to the night trains
to/from Bangkok. Visa on
arrival is available when crossing the border by train.

By land

Most border crossings open for foreigners, with
an indication where visas on arrival can be issued, are listed on
the web site of the National Tourism Administration [7].
This list is unfortunately incomplete.

Visa on arrival for Laos is currently not available
when entering from Cambodia overland, however it is
possible to get a Cambodian VOA when travelling in the opposite
direction. The nearest Cambodian town is Stung Treng, and the border is a 90-minute
speedboat ride away. Note that the border is lightly used and both
Customs officers and transport providers have a reputation of
gouging foreigners.

The land crossing between Mengla (Yunnan) and Boten (Laos) is open to
foreigners and visa on arrival is possible (or you can get in
advance at the Lao consulate in Kunming). Daily bus service operates from
Mengla to Luang
Namtha and Udomxai.

Generally speaking, it is not possible for independent
travellers to cross from China to Laos via the Mekong River, not
least because there's a chunk of Myanmar in the middle and the Lao
checkpoint at Xieng Kok does not issue visas on arrival. Travel
agents in China, including Panda Travel [8], run irregular cruises from
Jinghong (China) via Chiang Saen (Thailand)
to Huay Xai (Laos), but
schedules are erratic and prices expensive.

Being in transit by air, road or river in Laos can be as
rewarding as the destination itself - but allow plenty of leeway in
your schedule for the near-inevitable delays, cancellations and
breakdowns.

By plane

State carrier Lao Airlines[9] has a near-monopoly on
domestic flights, a dodgy safety history, and a horrible on-time
record (in part caused by difficult weather conditions especially
in the mountainous north) - but improvements are being made, with
French ATR-72s slowly replacing the aging Soviet and Chinese fleet.
The fairly comprehensive network is by far the fastest (and,
relatively speaking, the safest) way of reaching many parts of the
country. As of 2009, the popular Vientiane-Luang Prabang route
costs US$78 (one-way full fare for foreigners), but covers in 40
minutes what would take you at least six to eight hours by
speedboat or bus, and is usually operated with ATR-72s. Flights to
more remote destinations, though, are flown on the Xian MA60, a
Chinese knockoff of the Soviet An-24, and are frequently canceled
without warning if the weather is bad or not enough passengers show
up.

The second Lao airline is Lao Air[10], which flies 14-passenger
Cessnas from Vientiane to Phongsali, Sam Neua and Sainyabuli
(Xayabouly) several times a week. These airfields are all
rudimentary and flights are cancelled at the drop of a hat if
weather is less than perfect.

VIP, minibus or car?

Minibuses are quicker and more expensive, however that doesn't
mean they are necessarily better. A typical VIP
Bus is just an old bus by Western standards, and may be
more prone to breakdowns, but they usually have more leg room which
can make a long journey much more comfortable. Both types are
usually air conditioned.

Even more expensive, but certainly the most convenient, is a
rented car with driver. A car with a driver will cost around $95
USD per day. Some can even drive over the border to Thailand,
China, Cambodia and Vietnam. The cars can be arranged at tour
agencies, tourist hotels and car rental companies. The cars are
new, so they're reliable. They have the bonus of your being able to
stop the car at any time for photos, nosing around a village or
just stretching your legs.

The highways in Laos have improved in the past ten years, but
the fact that 80% remain unpaved is a telling statistic. Still, the
main routes connecting Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang and Savannakhet are now sealed, and the
transport options on these roads include bus, minibus, and
converted truck.

Some common routes through Laos include:

Luang
Prabang to Phonsavan
- minibus: cramped, so arrive early to get good seats as near the
front as possible; beautiful views so secure a window seat if
possible.

Sam Neua to Muang
Ngoi - converted Soviet truck: a 2 day trip along a horrible
road; good views and a necessary evil, but fun if you're prepared
to get a few knocks and talk to some Lao people who are, after all,
in the same boat

Muang Ngoi to Luang Namtha -
converted pickup truck: takes two days due to road conditions, with
overnight accommodation possible at Muang Xay (Oudomxay); all right road, much
travelled by backpackers

Luang Namtha
to Huay Xai - road only
passable in the dry season, but the same journey can be made by
boat in the rainy season. China builds a new road to Thailand. The
road from Luang Namtha to Huay Xai is part of this road and it is a
very good road.

Paksan to Phonsavan - there is a new
road between Borikham and Tha Thom. In Tha Thom there is a
guesthouse with 8 rooms. The forest between Borikham and Tha Thom
is still in a very good condition (but it's a dirt road). Since
most of the forest in Laos has gone this is one of the last roads
surrounded by primary forest. If you travel by motorbike this is a
must go! And tell it to everybody - if no tourists go there the
forest will be burned or sold. There are substantial road works
being undertaken by the Vietnamese between Paksan and Phonsavan and
there can be some fairly long delays along the way. Even though the
trip is only a couple of hundred kilometers it can take 16-20 hrs
to traverse this section.

A common form of local transport (less than 20 km) in Laos is
the jumbo, a motorized three-wheeler mostly
referred to as a tuk-tuk like in Thailand,
although jumbos are somewhat larger. These are also known as
taxis and, more amusingly,
skylabs - after a perceived resemblance to a space
capsule (clearly a warning sign of the dangers of excessive opium
smoking). A jumbo should cost no more than 10,000 kip (about US$1)
for short journeys of 1-5 km.

By boat

Boats along the Mekong and its tributaries are useful shortcuts
for the horrible roads, although as the road network improves river
services are slowly drying up, and many of the remaining services
only run in the wet season, when the Mekong floods and becomes more
navigable. Huay Xai (on
the border with Thailand)
to Luang Prabang
and travel south of Pakse are
the main routes still in use.

There are so-called slow boats and
speedboats - the latter being tiny lightweight
craft equipped with powerful motors that literally skid across the
water at high speeds.

By slow boat

Many people go from Chiang Khong in Thailand via the border town of Houai Xai
downstream the Mekong to the marvelous city (if you can call a
16000 capita place a city) of Luang Prabang. The ride takes basically
two days and is very scenic. Apart from that, it is a floating
backpacker ghetto with no (good) food sold, so bring some, cramped
and considerably hot. It's your choice, but one of my fellow
travellers remarked the second day 'no-one looks happy on this boat
any more...' Be sure to bring a good (long) read, something soft
for the wooden benches and your best patience.

By speedboat

Speedboat barreling down the Mekong

An attractive choice for some, with a 6 hour ride from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, as
compared to the two-day trip on the slow boat, but not for the
faint of heart. Expect to be crammed into a modified canoe made for
4, with 10 other people, along with all the luggage somehow packed
in. Expect to sit on the floor of the canoe, as there are no seats,
with your knees against your chin for the full 6 hours. Expect an
incredibly loud engine inches behind your head. Expect the engine
to break a few times, and stops for delays to fix it. That being
said, when this ride finally ends, if you make it with no trouble,
you will never be happier to get to Luang Prabang. Stories of
small, overloaded speedboats sinking or hitting driftwood are
common, but if you are a good swimmer, take comfort in the fact
that you can see both shores throughout the entire trip. So, as you
see, choosing between the slow boat and the speedboat is a hard
call, based mostly upon your comfort level; would you prefer a slow
unpleasant trip, or a much faster, but more dangerous unpleasant
trip. Either way, the scenery along the way is gorgeous and
unexploited, and Luang Prabang is an incredible city, worth a
thousand of these journeys.

Speedboat warning

January 1, 2007: There are unconfirmed reports
that as of January 1, 2007, the Lao Government has
banned the use of speedboats due to environmental
concerns. Relying on speedboats for travel may not be an option,
and further information should be investigated. However, in early
December 2007 speedboats were still cruising the Mekong, operating
the Vientiane-Paklay-Vientiane route on five days/week and the
Luang Prabang-Huay Xai route.

Though helpful in saving time, speedboats are not without
danger: built to carry 8 passengers, they are often overloaded; the
engine noise is well above a healthy level, which could be a
serious hazard to your ears, especially if you are on the boat for
a long time (as well as causing considerable noise pollution,
scaring wildlife and spoiling the peaceful river life); and
fatalities resulting from capsize due to incautious maneuvering, or
hitting floating logs or hidden rocks, have been reported (and
exaggerated by competing slow boat owners, some say...) However,
the vast majority of speedboat users have no serious problems. If
you are taller than the average Laotian (many are), are a bit
claustrophobic and/or have inflexible leg muscles you are
guaranteed an extremely uncomfortable experience for several
endless hours.

Suggestions for those who decide to take the risk:

get one of the front seats as they allow you to stretch your
legs and are far from the noisy motor

wear helmets and life jackets; reconsider your journey if these
are not provided

bring a coat in the cold season, the strong wind can make you
feel cold even at temperatures of 25C.

bring earplugs

protect water-sensitive equipment (you might get wet)

By motorcycle

Motorcycle travel in Laos is not without risks but the rewards
of truly independent travel are great. There are several rental
shops in Vientiane only and bike rentals in other parts of the
country are few. Quality of machines varies from shop to shop so
you need to fully inspect your new friend before you head out on
the road. There are many good roads and many paved ones and touring
Laos is done easily. Most bikes in Laos are Honda Baja or XR 250
dual purpose bikes and anything else is usually mechanically
questionable. Helmets are not only mandatory in the country but a
valuable item in a place where traffic rules are made up by the
minute.

There is an operator in Laos that offers not only bike rentals
but full support and tour guidance for self drive trips, Remote
Asia Travel based in Vientiane. [11]

By bicycle

Cycling is a great option with quiet roads. Laos offers
wonderful remote areas to discover, very little traveled roads,
friendly people and even some companies providing cycling tours
with the help of professional guides all over the country. The more
time people seem to spent in Laos the more they seem to like the
quiet travel mood and the opportunity to actually be in contact
with the people along the way. Good maps are available about the
roads in Laos and all major routes are with good roads. In normal
distances you find simple guest houses and in all major towns
better choices and restaurant. Food is not a problem as long as you
remember to carry some stuff with you. Tropical fruits and noodle
soup is one of the standards. There are two local operators running
a wide selection of guided mountain biking tours through Laos:

A thing to note if you travel on your own...there are very few
proper bike shops outside of Vientiane but also for bikes with 28
inches wheels you would have a hard time. Bring your equipment with
you and make sure you get contact details to a supplier maybe from
Thailand (Chiang Mai or Bangkok)

Some may prefer the speed of a motorbike, note that some roads
are still not brilliant condition for a scooter due to the poor
balance of those chinese imports.

The official language of Laos is Lao, a tonal language closely related to
Thai. Thanks
to ubiquitous Thai broadcast media most Lao understand Thai fairly
well, but it's worth learning a few basic expressions in Lao. French, a
legacy of the colonial days, still features on signs and is
understood by some older people, but these days English is far more
popular.

There are two main ways to turn the Lao script into the Latin
alphabet: either French-style spellings like
Houeisay, or English-style spellings like
Huay Xai. While government documents seem to prefer the
French style, the English spellings are becoming more and more
common and are (naturally) easier for English speakers to read, so
they're used on Wikitravel as well. Two quick pronunciation tips:
Vientiane is actually
pronounced "Wieng Chan", and the letter x is
always read as a plain old "s".

Do

Trek

Trekking in mountainous northern Laos is quite
popular. The main hub for this is Luang Namtha. A new trekking spot is Oudomxay, just south of Luang
Namtha.

Bathe

One Laotian experience definitely worth trying is the
herbal sauna. Often (but not always) run by
temples, these are simple-looking affairs, often just a rickety
bamboo shack with a stove and a pipe of water on one side, usually
open only in the evenings. The procedure for a visit usually goes
like this:

Enter and pay first. The going rate is around 10,000 kip, plus
around the same if you want a massage afterward.

Head for the changing room, take off your clothes and wrap
yourself up in a sarong (usually provided).

Keeping yourself modestly sarong-clad, head over to the shower
or water bucket in one corner and wash up.

Plunge into the sauna room itself. It will be dark, hot and
steamy inside, with intense herbal scents of lemongrass and
whatever the sauna master is cooking up that day, and you will soon
start to sweat profusely.

When you've had your fill, head outside, sip on a little weak
tea and marvel at how the tropical heat of the day now feels cool
and refreshing.

Repeat at will.

Buy

The Lao currency is the kip, which is
inconvertible (outside Laos), unstable and generally inflationary.
As of March 2009, there are around 8500 kip to the dollar and
13,500 kip to the euro. Make sure that you get rid of all your kip
before you leave the country, since there will be no possibility to
exchange it in other countries. The Vientiane airport for example
will exchange your kip into dollars.

The largest bill is only 50000 kip, the other notes in common
circulation are 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000 and 20000 kip;
withdrawing the maximum of 700,000 kip from an ATM (about US$70)
could result in 70 notes of 10000 kip each. This makes carrying
large quantities of kip quite inconvenient. Fortunately, there is
little need to do so, as US$ are generally accepted (although
typically at somewhat disadvantageous rates - about 5-10% less than
the official rate is common), and Thai baht are
also readily accepted in many areas near the border, notably
Vientiane. For short visits to the main centers there's little
point in exchanging kip, as changing them back is a hassle in Laos
and impossible elsewhere. Beware though, that in remote places only
kip is accepted and no ATM's will be available, so plan ahead.

More touristy places and banks are also starting to accept
euro. So if you're from one of the euro countries,
just bring some just in case. This could be cheaper than changing
your euros into US$ or baht and then into kip.

There are now quite a few ATMs in Vientiane,
and they have also appeared in other major cities including Luang
Prabang, Vang Vieng, Savannekhet, Tha Khaek, Pakse and Luang
Namtha. BCEL [14], the largest bank,
accepts both Visa/Cirrus and MasterCard/Maestro, but surcharges of
US$1-2 apply. Don't rely on ATMs outside Vientiane, since they're
still rare and often unreliable — but if it doesn't work the first
time, keep trying every few hours (they tend to get emptied in the
course of the day, due to the huge numbers of notes withdrawn).

Many banks, travel agents and guest houses will allow you to
take out cash from a credit card as a cash
advance. This usually occurs by withdrawing the money in US$ from
the card as a cash advance; the card issuer will usually charge a
fee (about 3%), the Lao bank involved will charge about 3%, and
then the agent providing the cash advance might (or might not)
charge another 3%, and then the amount is converted from US$ to kip
at a poor rate to the US$, costing another 5% or so - hence,
overall, these transactions are much more expensive than the
typical charge for withdrawing cash from ATMs in other countries.
However, as for example euros get pretty bad rates compared to US$
when exchanged in Laos, getting a cash advance in US$ and changing
it to kips might actually save money compared to bringing euros
with you to Laos. Expats living in Vientiane routinely get cash
from ATMs in Nong Khai or Udon Thani (Thailand), where the maximum
per transaction is mostly 20000 baht, or ten times what you'll get
in Laos.

The use of both ATM's and credit cards in banks is subject to
computer functionality, staff's computer skills, power cuts,
telephone network breakdowns, National Day, etc etc. A few
travellers have been forced out of the country prematurely as they
couldn't withdraw funds to further their travels. Always bring cash
as well. Changing money can be next to impossible outside major
towns.

Banks give good rates, but seem to abide in morbid fear that a
tourist might stumble upon them and change money. To avoid this
unpleasant eventuality, they ensure that the banking hours are very
restricted and that both Laos and European holidays are fully
observed, with generous buffer days between the official holiday
and resuming work.

Many shops start an hour's lunch break at noon, and some
maintain the (now abolished) official French two-hour break. Nearly
everything is closed on Sundays, except restaurants and many
shops.

Costs

US$20 a day is a good rule of thumb, though it's possible to get
by on less than US$10. A basic room with shared bathroom can be as
little as US$2 in Vang
Vieng or as much as US$8 in Vientiane or Luang Prabang. Meals are usually under
US$5 for even the most elaborate Lao, Thai or Vietnamese dishes
(western food is more expensive), and plain local dishes can cost
less than US$1. A local bus from Vientiane to Vang Vieng costs
US$2.50; the slow boat from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai costs US$20 for both days.

What to buy

Typical Lao dresses in cheap machine-made fabric can be made to
order. Expect to pay around US$5 for the fabric and US$2 for
labour. Handmade Lao silk is one of the most attractive things to
buy. The Talat Sao (Morning Market) in Vientiane has dozens of
small shops selling 100% handmade silk scarves or wall hangings
from US$5 upwards depending on quality, intricacy of design and
size. Beware cheap synthetic fabrics sold as 'silk' imported from
China and Vietnam. Be careful also of 'antique' silk. There is very
little left but new fabric can be made to look old and worn. Still
attractive, but don't pay more than US$30-50. In markets, always
bargain: it is expected, but keep smiling...

Lao cuisine is very similar to the food eaten in the
north-eastern Isaan region of
Thailand: being very spicy, more often bitter than sweet, and using
lots of fresh herbs and vegetables served raw. The staple here is
sticky rice (ເຂົ້າໜຽວ khao niaow), eaten
by hand from small baskets called tip khao. Using your
right hand, pinch off a bit, roll into a ball, dip and munch
away.

The national dish is laap (ລາບ, also
larb), a "salad" of minced meat mixed with herbs, spices,
lime juice and, more often than not, blistering amounts of chili.
Unlike Thai larb, the Lao version can use raw meat
(dip) instead of cooked meat (suk), and if
prepared with seafood makes a tasty if spicy carpaccio.

Another favourite is tam maak hung
(ຕໍາຫມາກຫຸ່ງ), the spicy green papaya salad known as som
tam in Thailand, but which the Lao like to dress with
fermented crab (ປູດອງ pudem) and a chunky, intense fish
sauce called pa daek (ປາແດກ), resulting
in a stronger flavor than the milder, sweeter Thai style. Other
popular dishes include ping kai, spicy grilled chicken,
and mok pa, fish steamed in a banana leaf.

In addition to purely Lao food, culinary imports from other
countries are common. Khao jii pat-te, French baguettes
stuffed with pâté, and foe (pho) noodles from Vietnam are
both ubiquitous snacks particularly popular at breakfast. Note that
foe can refer both to thin rice noodles (Vietnamese pho)
as well as the wide flat noodles that would be called kuay
tiow in Thailand.

The national drink of Laos is the ubiquitous and tasty
Beerlao, made with Laotian jasmine rice and one of
the few Lao exports.It maintains an almost mythical status amongst
travellers and world beer afficionados. The yellow logo with its
tiger-head silhouette can be seen everywhere, and a large 640 ml
bottle shouldn't cost more than 12,000 to 15,000 kip in
restaurants. It's available in three versions: original (5%), Dark
(6.5%) and Light (2.9%). The brewery claims they have 99% market
share, yet you can get Carlsberg (from the same brewery)
and Heineken (imported from Thailand) - but why would you?

Rice liquor, known as lao-lao, is widely
available and at less than US$0.30 per 750 ml bottle is the
cheapest way to get hammered.

Lao coffee (kaafeh) is widely reckoned
to be amongst the best in the world. It's grown on the Bolaven
Plateau in the south; the best brand is Lao Mountain
Coffee. Unlike Thai coffees, Lao coffee is not adulterated
with ground tamarind seed. To make sure you aren't fed overpriced
Nescafé instead, be sure to ask for kaafeh thung. By
default in lower end establishments, kaafeh lao comes with
sugar and condensed milk; black coffee is kaafeh dam,
coffee with milk (often, however, you'll get non-dairy creamer) is
kaafeh nom.

Tap water is not drinkable, but bottled water
is cheap and widely available.

There is not much nightlife outside of Vientiane and Vang Vieng.
To have a beer in some places, simply visit a restaurant.

Sleep

Accommodation options outside the Mekong Valley's main tourist
spots are limited to basic hotels and guest houses, but there are
many budget and mid-price hotels and guest houses and quite a few
fancy hotels in Vientiane and Luang Prabang.

Work

Lao work permits are difficult to obtain, unless you can secure
employment with one of the numerous NGOs. English teaching is
possible but poorly paid (US$5-8/hour).

Stay safe

Crime levels are low in Laos, although petty
theft (bag snatching) is not unknown and seems to be on the rise.
Whilst it is highly unlikely to affect most travellers, Laos has
some of the world's highest corruption levels, and is a big factor
in many citizens' lives.

Lao judicial processes remain arbitrary and, while you are
unlikely to be hassled, if accused your legal rights may be slim or
non-existent. Three points in particular to beware of:

Sexual relations between a Lao national and a
foreigner are illegal unless they are married, and marriage
requires special permits. Lao hotels are not permitted to allow a
foreigner and Lao national in the same hotel room together.
"Number One" condoms are available for 1000-5000
kip for a pack of 3. These are probably the cheapest condoms in the
world (and their quality seems to be ok).

Drugs are a large problem in Laos and should
be avoided at all costs. Lao law makes little distinction between
personal use and trafficking and any conviction will result in
heavy fines and expulsion at best, and imprisonment or even
execution at worst. Methamphetamine is widespread and often offered
in "special" or "happy" shakes along the backpacker trail.

Any criticism of the Lao government or the
Communist Party in any way, shape or form is unwise.

Laos is the most bombed country in history and hundreds of
people are maimed or killed by landmines or unexploded ordinance
left over from the Vietnam war every year. Almost all of these
occur in the eastern and northern parts of the country, especially
near the border with Vietnam. Never enter into areas marked as
minefields and travel only on paved roads and well-worn paths. If
you are unsure of what areas are and aren't safe to enter, ask the
locals.

One other note of caution: there has been some violence between
Hmong rebel groups in the north and in central
Laos and government forces. This low-level insurgency has been
brewing for years, and has been very sporadic. The main areas
affected have been on Highway 13 (which runs from Luang Prabang to
Cambodia, passing through Pakse
and Vientiane). The last
reported case was in 2003 around Kasi. Attacks have been on regular
buses, not tourist buses. VIP and minibuses passing through these
areas typically used to travel with an armed guard (with a machine
gun!). As of October/November 2007 this wasn't the case anymore.
Between 2003 and 2006 the primary forest in this area has
disappeared - hiding would be difficult for snipers now.

Stay healthy

Laos is considered very malarial so anti-malarials are recommended, but
check with health professionals: there is a high incidence of
drug-resistant parasites in these parts. Other mosquito-born
diseases, such as dengue, can be life-threatening, so make sure you
bring at least 25% DEET insect repellant and ensure that you sleep
with mosquito protection like nets or at least a fan. Vientiane
seems to be malaria- but not dengue-free.

The usual precautions regarding food and water are wise. Bottled
water is widely available.

Respect

As with other Buddhist countries, showing the soles of your feet
is very poor manners. Never touch any person on the head. Despite
prevelant cheap alcohol, being drunk is considered disrespectful
and a loss of face.

Things in Laos happen slowly and rarely as scheduled. Keep your
cool, as the natives will find humor in any tourist showing anger.
They will remain calm, and venting your anger will make everybody
involved lose face and is certainly not going to expedite things,
particularly if dealing with government bureaucracy.

Respect for monks is part of Laotian life, and the monks take
their duties seriously. Remember that monks are forbidden to touch
women. Some undertake a vow of silence, and will not answer you
even if they can understand and speak English. It is best not to
compel them to stand next to you for a photograph, or start a
conversation, if they seem reluctant.

Contact

Internet cafés can be found in larger towns,
however access speeds are usually painfully slow. The most reliable
connections are in Vientiane, and usually cost around 100
kip/minute, with the cheapest offering 4000 kip/hour. GPRS via
mobile phone is also an option, if you have a local or Thai
SIM.

Mobile phone connectivity in Laos has
mushroomed, with no less than four competing GSM operators. Two of
these offer roaming sevices.

Laotel[15]
has agreements with some 30 international networks - see roaming
with Laotel [16].
Their M-Phone prepaid service seems to be particularly popular
among locals, at least in Vientiane.

Tigo[17] has agreements with over
100 International phone networks - see roaming with Tigo [18].
Another popular choice, they also have low-cost international rate
of 2000 kip/minute to many countries, if you buy their SIM card and
dial "177" instead of "+". However, as of February 2009, Tigo's
coverage is still said to be poor away from larger towns.

ETL Mobile[19]
is known to have better coverage in rural and remote parts of Laos.
However, in Laos "better" certainly does not mean "everywhere".
They seem to have low-cost international call service too. [20]

Local prepaid SIM cards can be purchased in various shops and
stores without any paperwork (at least for M-Phone and Tigo).

Also, there is Thai GSM coverage close to Thai border (including
significant part of Vientiane), and Thai SIM cards and top-up cards
can be bought in Laos; in addition, DeeDial International Call
Cards are available. Thus, if you already have Thai number, you can
use (generally cheaper) Thai network and/or avoid buying one more
SIM. However, beware - if your Thai SIM has International Roaming
switched on, your phone will use Lao network when your Thai network
is not available, and the roaming charges will be significantly
higher.

Postal service in Laos is slow and not
particularly reliable, although outgoing mail is usually OK. As of
January 2006, sending a postcard to most of the world outside Asia
costs 7000 kip.

This is a usable article. It has
information for getting in as well as some complete entries for
restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this
article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!