I think this is exactly what i'm trying to do. Thanks for drawing it up! Can anyone confirm that this will work for us? Where did you get most of your stuff? I'm looking to place an order ebrewsupply and auberins in the next few days.

Is there no need for an SSR/heatsink for the second PID? Just wire it directly to the alarm/buzzer?

Are you just controlling the power to the control panel on/off with the E-stop?

I want my 2 pumps to be controlled by push buttons, and the heating element and buzzer to be able to be directly turned off via turn switches. LEDs will be used to indicate that there is power to the control panel and when there is power to the heating element.

What are you using for an enclosure? I'm thinking about the enclosure from ebrewsupply.com

-ebrewsupply, auber, and lightobject
-since I will just be using the HLT PID as a thermometer only (for now) I don't believe it will need one since it is not controlling anything
-I haven't found an enclosure I like enough yet

A few comments.
Regarding your wiring diagram itself - the one major thing you are missing that will not allow your panel to work - on the PIDs, pins 1 and 14 go to the buzzer, pin 13 is power in. On the left PID you have pins 1 and 14 taking power in (bad) and no alarm buzzer at all, so just get rid of all that. On the right PID you have the alarm kind of set up, but not right. You should have power going from Line 1 to a switch then to pin 13. From pins 1 and 14 then go to the buzzer directly. Then buzzer to neutral.

Another thing to consider - you have no means to turn the panel on / off. You do however have a lot of switches to turn each PID on, and then another switch to turn the element contactor on. Theoretically, as long as your panel is plugged in, the buttons are all live and everything goes. If you don't have kids / curious friends, that may work for you. A common solution is a second contactor installed prior to any of the distribution terminals, powered by a keyed switch - turn that off, there is no power to any of the downstream options. This would also allow you to get rid of the two switches for the individual PIDs, unless you really wanted to be able to turn off one of the PIDs mid brew for some reason.

For the sake of consistency, the SSR feed wire from pin 8 should also be purple.

You could save yourself a fuse connection and put a 2A fuse prior to where you split power to your PIDs, rather than 2 1A fuses after the split.

Another thing to consider - you have no means to turn the panel on / off. You do however have a lot of switches to turn each PID on, and then another switch to turn the element contactor on. Theoretically, as long as your panel is plugged in, the buttons are all live and everything goes. If you don't have kids / curious friends, that may work for you. A common solution is a second contactor installed prior to any of the distribution terminals, powered by a keyed switch - turn that off, there is no power to any of the downstream options. This would also allow you to get rid of the two switches for the individual PIDs, unless you really wanted to be able to turn off one of the PIDs mid brew for some reason.

-Kevin

I think I have been convinced to get a second contactor (1st will be for the element) to use the key switch to turn the power on/off to the control panel (I was going to just use the emergency stop initially).

I was wondering about the two on/off push buttons to control the PIDs. I can't think of any reason that I would want my control panel on but the 2 PIDs off. Is there a common reason for turning on/off PIDs that i'm not thinking about?

Does it matter what kind of fuse(s) to get to make it work inside the control panel. Where do people commonly get these?

Thank You BadNewsBrewery, I can see the mistakes now. I will work on that later when I get time.
-As for the main power vs the PID switches, I'm not worried about anyone messing with it. It will only be plugged in when it is in use.
-I thought about the fuses and figured that one for each would be better that way if one blows I can pinpoint the problem easier, am I incorrect in this assumption or still unnecessary?

Smittygouv30- I plan on using this Fuse, I've seen a few people use them here. Auber reccomends 1a fast blow

Makes sense on the power issue, though Corey does have a good question - if you're only plugging it in when it's in use, when would you ever have the PIDs turned off? You could save $30-$40 and drop the two switches to power the PIDs.

You are dead right on the fuses thing - if you have one fuse per device you can troubleshoot much easier. It's a little more complicated on the install, but not by much. As they say - many ways to skin a cat.

Thanks for the fuse holder link. I'm interested to hear your reasoning for the being able to turn off the PIDs. I just want to make sure i'm not missing something in my plan. I don't want to do all this work and spend this money to regret something. I want it to be the bomb right from the start. haha