Lisa Rands

Why "The End of Affair"?I went to England to try a route at Wimberry, but the cold weather did not permit that. I have had my eye on The End of the Affair for a long time -- it's such a stunning line! All the other routes on that buttress are great too. The End of the Affair dries faster than almost anything else, so it was a really good option to try.

Wasn't it scarry? How did you feel while climbing? I headpointed the route, which means I toproped it first. It felt very precarious on toprope. Although I could toprope it without falling several times, I can't say I felt totally solid. The last time I toproped the route, I was talking myself out of leading it. It was a windy, cold day. There was doubt in my mind and I was beginning to think it wasn't worth the risk. But, as I sat by myself and looked over the scenery the sun came out, and the wind died down a little. Suddenly I felt completely calm. I knew without a doubt that I could do the route, and that this was the moment. When I led the route, everything fell into place. The moves flowed and I felt completely in control all the way up. It was the most amazing experience for me. My mind overcome all the fear and doubt and for my body to move instinctively into the perfect positions.

What does your boyfriend tell you before you leave the ground for a new trad route?He's usually quiet. He knows I wouldn't try the route if I didn't feel 100 % confident. I've backed off things before, and I don't have any problem backing off if everything doesn't feel right. In fact, I had been to Curbar the day before I did End of the Affair, and was roping up to lead it, but felt rushed and changed my mind. My boyfriend doesn't say anything either way.

Well, it seems you like gritstone a lot! Yes. Gritstone is very different from the rock that I have where I live. The formations are unique, beautiful, and fun to climb on.

What's special in trad routes? I like the mental side to trad climbing.

Why did move you into trad?When I began climbing, trad climbing was what my friends were doing, so I joined them. I have always aspired to do trad routes and big walls!

Do you practice trad in the US?My first climbing experiences were bouldering at my local area, and then traveling to climb in Joshua Tree, Taquitz (California) and Zion (Utah), always with a plan to climb the big faces. I still have goals in traditional climbing but now I always seem to have bouldering goals that get in the way! I see doing more traditional climbing in the future. Last summer a friend and I attempted a new route in the Sierras, and I look forward to going back up there.

Well let's take a break from climbing and let's speak about something really interesting! You know we are curious! Let's talk about your freaky nails! Do you have a personal color stylist? I started painting my nails green so long ago it just seems normal now -- not freaky! Actually, one day a friend and I were at the beach in California and saw the color at a punk girl store. I thought it was pretty, so I bought it! I started wearing that color out climbing and it became my good luck charm. But I have tried lots of different glitter and color combinations!

…and what about your tattoo? Any special meaning? I like cats and I had Hello Kitty toys when I was a child. I really loved the character. I always wanted a tattoo, but I didn't want some dragon across my back! That's why I got Hello Kitty.

It starts getting intriguing… Do you have more tattoos?No, I'm pretty boring other than that! I was thinking of getting another though, so … any suggestions?

What next? Have you considered trying to repeat the free of the Nose?I think that a lot of people have considered that, but I'd need a lot more practice at trad climbing, especially longer things before I could think about that. I'd love to free a route on El Cap, but I would really need to build up my skills, and I'd also have to put aside my other goals, so we'll see what happens.

Did you try Brad Pitt? About four years ago I tried it a couple of times and felt like I would do it. I was very close but hesitated to make the snatch for the good hold! I wanted to return another day. Unfortunately, snow came and we left the country before I could try again. Since then I haven't tried again. I guess I've been doing other things. I've been more into the routes lately, or climbing other places. For sure I'll try again though.You are one of the few female professionals! Do you feel a lot of pressare because of that? Sometimes I feel a lot of pressure in competitions. It's so much easier to be an underdog because you can only do better than people expect. I have lately begun to have fun with it, and not worry so much about winning. But I know I am more interested in real rock climbing than competing.

You competed in some legs of the Bouldering World Cup, and even won! You are not competing anymore in World Cups, is this because you had enough of World Cups? I've had really bad luck with injuries or I would have competed more. I had a finger pulley injury the first year. That was after I had won two big comps in a row. Not because of those comps, but because I had been training really hard and also bouldering outside, and probably just did too much. The next year, just before I was going to start competing, I had a fall where I hyper-extended both my knees and I tried to compete with lots of pain. I have since had one knee surgery, and I will still need one more! But after that I really hope to do some competitions again. I'm definitely feeling stronger than ever outside, but will have to train more on plastic if I want to win.