Jan 2012 Note: This review reflects the menu of a previous chef. A new review will be provided soon.

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Cedar Creek causes ripples.

The coursing, energetic spot takes over a site that by now mimics an archaeological dig. It rises where Fino Rosso, Spark, Mask and Veranda all have ignited ovens.

But Cedar Creek goes in a different direction, with a more relaxed approach, both in the streamlined, clubby dining room and in the no-longer-open kitchen. The result is just what the neighborhood needs. Actually, it's what yours does, too.

Credit Richard Cutler, owner of Mim's in Syosset and Roslyn Heights, and chef Richard Soriano, formerly of Nonnina in West Islip. And come with an appetite.