Prague is often dubbed “the city of 100 spires”. Whilst we don’t recommend taking the trouble to count them, what you and every first-time visitor will see – no effort required – is the the city’s architectural splendour. Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches, town halls and towers clamour for the attention of your camera lens in the picture perfect Old Town, whilst, silently surveying the entire of Prague, the city castle sits across the Vltava on its lofty hill.

Following generations of foreign domination, Nazi occupation and Communist rule, perhaps it’s no surprise that – after the Iron Curtain finally cracked in the early 1990s – the Czech Republic was the first of the Central and East European countries to successfully embrace the West and the sparkling allure of the free market. And whilst coach parties, drunk Brits, tacky tourist shops and M&S became an unfortunate side affect of the capital’s new Westernised identity, overall Prague has stubbornly maintained its character. Interspersed with the city’s more commercial side you’ll still find numerous antique shops, vintage boutiques and shops selling the famous Bohemian glass, whilst sales of vepřo-knedlo-zelo (pork and dumplings) and delicious honey cake still outnumber sales of Big Macs.

Overlooking the Old Town

The city’s astonishing prettiness can make Prague resemble a toy town at times, but you don’t have to travel far off the track to experience local life in the living. For example in Letna Park skaters practice tricks, racing and shouting at each other, without a care in the world. This was the very spot where once stood a fearsome statue of Stalin, but now weeds have made their home and what remains of the base is obscured by tangles of grass and graffiti.

Nearby Charles Bridge also deserves the hype surrounding it, but avoid visiting it in the day when crowds of excitable tourists make it difficult to see the statues that line the North and South sides – or to move. Instead visit on a cloudless night, when the crowds have dispersed and the moonlight illuminates the bridge and casts an eerie light over these noble effigies. At this hour you can touch the statue of the martyred St. John of Nepomuk to ensure you return to Prague, and take a look at the Czech capital while it’s semi-sleepy.

Better by moonlight!

From the Charles Bridge it’s a seemingly vertical stroll to the Castle, through Malá Strana and up a lot of steps. But it’s definitely worth sweating for. You can get a panoramic view of the city from above, before exploring this Gothic heavyweight and the nearby cathedral. It’s worth buying skip the line tickets to the Castle to save time and hassle. Also on the top of the hill there’s a an entertaining Toy Museum (the second largest in the world) which includes an army of Barbies from 1959 onwards.

Whilst in Prague you can’t ignore the elephant in the room: the Museum of Communism is located on Na Příkopě 10, just off Wenceslas Square, above McDonald’s and close to a casino, which wouldn’t please Lenin. Today communism in the Czech capital seems as popular amongst residents as the Soviet tanks that enforced it, yet the guest book reveals that the museum attracts both critics and sympathisers of the regime.

If you are planning on visiting the majority of Prague’s main attractions it would be well worth investing in a City Card, which offers free entry to the Castle, National Museum, National Gallery, Historical Bus Tour and even airport express bus – you can buy the City Cards securely here.

Hipster’s Guide

The John Lennon Peace Wall is a bit of a mission to find in the winding streets of Malá Strana, but you’ll be glad of the effort when you get there, if only for the photo opportunity. It became an artistic canvas to commemorate the late Beatle, and was later scrawled on as a sign of protest against the communist regime in the 1980s. It has carried messages of peace ever since, and has been visited by Lennon’s leading lady, Yoko Ono. Don’t forget to take a pen. And a camera.

Pop star lives on in Prague

Another hip district worth exploring is Holesovice, a working class district with art nouveau buildings, bizarre bazaars, contemporary art spaces and no shortage of cool cafes, bars and nightclubs. Read more in our in-depth district guide.

If you want to escape the city – and have a fascination with all that is morbid – take a trip to the Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora. If you think churches tend to be dull, this one will certainly change your mind. Unlike the average parish prayer house, the shrine is decorated with the bones of the dead from the Hussite Wars and plague victims. The centrepiece is a huge chandelier made from every bone in the human body several times over.

Meanwhile cool activities to try your hand at might include at Aquazorbing at the Aquapalace. It involves rolling around a swimming pool in a giant ball, which will make a good pub story when you get back home. The freezing winters also make skiing a potential day activity during the season. Head to the Jizerské Hory range, an hour’s drive from Prague, when the snow settles. You could easily combine this with a trip to one of the most romantic Central European Christmas markets around.

Pillow Talk

If you want your holiday with a side helping of servants, try The Golden Well Hotel, where you can have your luggage unpacked and your aromatic oil bath run for you, as well as an in-room massage. Guests also have access to Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II’s private entrance into the castle gardens. If only home was this good! If your love of history extends to the boudoir, try the Sax Hotel. The 14th century building has rooms decorated in fifties, sixties and seventies themes. Choose your favourite decade and step in! For a more wallet friendly stay head to Hotel Clementin, which is noticeable for being housed in Prague’s narrowest building. Flashpackers looking for a high class hostel might try Miss Sophie’s with its designer dorms. It’s chic but still cheap.

Witch way to the Charles Bridge?

Fork Out

Czech food is a tempting mix of the meaty and the carb-laden, but not very vegetarian friendly! For authentic Czech fare head to Botel Admiral, an old boat moored on the banks of the Vltava. Try the delicious old-Bohemian-style roast goose. It’s a guaranteed foodgasm, as is the fare at U Pinkasů. Established in 1843, it was the first place to serve Pilsner, and still prides itself on its wide range of brews. And don’t miss the Czech honey cake. Vegetarians may find it more of a mission to find good food in Prague, but definitely not impossible. Maitrea is a vegetarian joint lovingly designed with feng shui principles in mind. The restaurant, with its soothing fountains and cream decor, envelops you in a sense of calm. And importantly the food will leave you wanting a second portion, too.

Drop In

When darkness falls Prague becomes a more flamboyant, hedonistic version of its daytime self, particularly in New Town and Old Town. For pre-drinks try Harley’s Bar. It’s as garish as a neon light in a library, but the atmosphere is always buzzing and the happy (three) hours are cheap. Cocktail freaks should hit Bugsy’s Bar, where 200 varieties are on offer, including the Long Breakfast Belevedere, intriguingly mixed with marmalade. While you’re here take a look at the paraphernalia on display – there’s a 1795 bottle of Madeira roasted wine, a Morris Hennessy signed bottle and the world’s tiniest mixer set. For something a bit twisted try the Cross Club, which is filled with works by local artists, strange inventions and kaleidoscopic lighting. It’ll make you feel like you’re tripping before you even are. The locals and students milling around also make it feel more authentic than other clubs. If you’re looking for a guaranteed good time with other young travellers Prague has some pretty decent organised pub crawls.

Getting There & Around

You can fly cheaply to Prague with low cost airlines easyJet, Jet2 and Ryanair, from a variety of UK and Irish cities, such as London, Edinburgh and Dublin. If money’s more plentiful you can choose from British Airways, Czech Airlines or KLM. If you fancy a lift from Vaclav Havel Airport you can reserve a transfer into town with Book Taxi Prague. From continental Europe, instead of flying, you can arrive cheaply by bus or train, with the overnighter to Krakow a staple on the backpacker route. If you are heading to Krakow and have a bit more time, then check out our Olomouc travel guide… it’s a beautiful Czech town en route to Poland.

Hard Copy

Before you go, dip into The Visible World by Mark Slouka, which reawakens wartime Czechslovakia and the Nazi occupation. For a guide of what to see and do in Prague pick up a copy of Artel Style by Karen Feldman, a visual treat written by an expat who made her home in the city. It’s full of tips on where to play, eat, and sleep, as well as including more useful information, such as common Czech phrases, metro and tram maps. Of course no serious Bohemian heading to the homeland would forget to pack a little light reading by Kafka or Kundera.

Your hipster guide was so interesting I really appreciate it. The John Lennon is quite difficult to find but once you are in front of it. You can really feel something. A couple of days ago, I did a bike tour in Prague but it was really vintage because of their retro bikes. You should try it if you want something where there is peace and history. Here is the website: http://retrobiketours.com
Another congrats for your blog.

Amazing blog post and very informative for all the tourists visiting Prague, and you have posted some great pictures. You write in detail which is great for the readers, i also have a website on Czech Republic which is http://www.visitczech.com, hope you will check out my website and give me some review.

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Hannah Carr

Hannah Carr is a freelance journalist, currently studying for a Postgraduate Diploma in Journalism. She’s written for a variety of publications, including travel, drawing on her local knowledge gleaned from stints in Edinburgh, Cardiff and Prague.More stories by Hannah

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