Returning to Poland's Roots

After the collapse of communism, Poland, like most other former Soviet bloc countries, took to "imported" fast foodóburgers, pizza, kebabsówith a hunger stoked by decades of deprivation. Now celebrity chefs Robert Maklowicz and Maciej Kuronóand food critics like Piotr Bikontóare spearheading a return to traditional Polish cookery. No, that doesn't mean all dumplings all the time. Inspired by the Italian Slow Food movement, the chefs emphasize flavor, quality and authentic technique. In hugely popular books such as Dialogues of the Tongue and Palate, TV shows and newspaper columns, they aim to reclaim such age-old specialities as golonka (succulent pigs'...