GoodDuck, TiteBond isn't hide glue. For the most part, hide glue comes in dry granular form. It's made from animal protein, so it smells real funky. It's dissolved in water and heated to about 140 degrees F for use. There are commercial liquid hide glues (modified with chemicals to stay liquid, and not quite as good as starting from granules) but the only one I'm aware of is made by Franklin... (Does Franklin make TiteBond? TiteBond actually isn't very widely available in Canada, where I am. We've got the same stuff with different brand names.)

I'm not totally sure who makes Titebond. But I'm asking because there is a crack that has just been filled in with glue and is starting to rattle and come apart. I'm pretty sure it is Titebond because that is what the last "luthier" used. Thanks for clearing me up Damon.

titebond can be dissolved but not with water. Can heat up viniger and use that. it might take a bit longer than hide glue. You would have to use a very stiff brush, dip it in the boiling viniger, rub the glue and right away wipe it off. you have to try and keep it as dry as you can. once you feel that the wood has gotten to wet stop, and clamp it up. Even if still has glue. this why the wood doesnt swell into another position you dont want. once it dries do it again till clean and then glue again with hide glue.. where is the crack. i can tell you how to clamp it up.

By the way, it isn't neccessary to heat up the vinegar; vinegar fumes are pretty nasty, and no fun to deal with.

I use room temp. vinegar and a paper towel, cut no larger than the area you want to remove the titebond. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes; the glue should become a sticky honey-type consistency... like wet glue. Peel off the paper towel, lightly scrape the glue off, and re-apply if needed. Works like a champ, and much cheaper than the $10 little bottle of De-Glue-Goo that is sold through woodworking stores and catalogs.

Sorry for the late late reply. Thanks for the help fellas. The crack is by the top left shoulder it is on the top though. It has been a very big pain in the A@# to say the least. The only way I have found see and get to my problem spot is to take the endpin out and look through that way. I will cleat it and i don't really think that will be a pain but I'm at a loss for clamping. I was thinking just some sort of light weight to set on top of the cleats but I'm not sure. Any ideas? Thanks

You can open the top seam, just in the upper bout area where you are working, and maybe get in a lightweight, deep throat clamp. To keep the cleat on the clamp while you put it in place, use a *drop* of superglue to lightly affix the cleat to the clamp. (Use hide-glue to glue the cleat in place.) After the hide glue has dried, a quick "snap" of the clamp will release it from the cleat. Also, put a piece of plexiglass between the varnished surface and the other side of the clamp. After this is all said and done, reglue the open seam.

Other people use rare-earth magnets to glue cleats in w/tops on, but the previous method works for me... sometimes.