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Andrew's, St.

ANDREW'S, ST., a city,
the seat of a university, and
anciently the metropolitan
see of Scotland, in the district
of St. Andrew's, county of
Fife, 39 miles (N. N. E.)
from Edinburgh; containing, with the villages of
Boarhills, Grange, Kincaple,
and Strathkinness, 6017 inhabitants, of whom 3959 are
in the city. This place, which
is of very remote antiquity,
formed part of the territories of the Pictish kings, of
whom Hergustus, whose capital was at Abernethy, had a
palace or hunting-seat near the site of the present town,
at that time a forest frequented by wild boars, and
thence, as well as from its situation on a promontory
overlooking the bay, called Mucross, a name still retained in that of the present village of Boarhills. The
origin of the town is, by tradition, ascribed to St. Regulus, abbot of the monastery of Patrae, in the Grecian
province of Achaia, who, about the year 370, attended
by a company of his brethren, sailed from Patrae, bearing with him a portion of the relics of the apostle St.
Andrew, which had been deposited there, and was
driven by a storm into the bay of this place, where with
difficulty, after the loss of their ship, the crew escaped
to land, with the sacred relics they had preserved. Hergustus, the Pictish monarch, informed of the arrival of
these strangers, came to visit them in person, and, pleased
with the simplicity and sanctity of their manners, became
a convert to Christianity, granted them his palace, with
the adjoining lands, for a settlement, and, after the
subsequent erection of a church, changed the name
Mucross into Kilrymont, or "the church of the King's
Mount." St. Regulus lived for thirty years afterwards
at this place, under the patronage of Hergustus, disseminating the doctrines of the Christian faith throughout this part of the country, and was buried in the
church over which he had so long presided. After the
subjugation of the Pictish dominion, and the establishment of the Scottish monarchy, by Kenneth McAlpine,
that king transferred the seat of government from
Abernethy to this place, to which, in honour of the
Apostle, he gave the name of St. Andrew's, by which it
has ever since been designated; and on the division of
the country into dioceses, in the reign of Malcolm III.,
St. Andrew's became the metropolitan see of the kingdom. In 1120, an Augustine priory was founded here,
by Robert, Bishop of St. Andrew's, who also, in 1140,
obtained from David I. a charter erecting the town into
a royal burgh. To this important priory, the nomination of the bishop was subsequently transferred, from
the Culdees. In 1159, Bishop Arnold commenced the
erection of the cathedral, which was continued under
his successors, for more than a century and a half, and
ultimately completed by Bishop Lamberton, a zealous
adherent of Bruce. In 1200, Bishop Roger built the
castle of St. Andrew's, which was, for many years, the
residence of the prelates of the see; and in 1274,
Bishop Wishart founded a Dominican priory.

Seal and Arms.

After the battle of Falkirk, in 1298, Edward I. of
England summoned the Scottish parliament to meet at
St. Andrew's, and compelled every member, with the
exception only of Sir William Wallace, to swear fealty
to his government; and a few years subsequently, the
same parliament assembled here to take the oath of
allegiance to Robert Bruce. Edward III. of England,
in 1336, placed a garrison in the castle, which, in the
year following, was reduced by the earls of March and
Fife; and in 1401, David, Duke of Rothesay, and
brother of James I., on a false charge of treason, was
imprisoned in the castle, by his uncle, the Duke of
Albany, and afterwards removed to Falkland, where he
was starved to death. The university of St. Andrew's
was founded in 1410, by Bishop Wardlaw, and, in the
following year, was incorporated by charter, conferring
all the powers and privileges enjoyed by foreign universities; James I., after regaining his liberty, visited the
establishment, bestowing on its members many marks
of his favour, and, in 1431, granted them a charter of
exemption from all taxes, tolls, or services, in every part
of the kingdom. Bishop Kennedy, nephew of James I.,
in 1455, founded the college of St. Salvator, chiefly for
theological studies and the liberal arts; the foundation
charter was confirmed by Pope Nicholas V., and the institution was subsequently endowed with numerous
royal grants. In 1471, the bishops of St. Andrew's were
dignified with the title of archbishops, and the metropolitan see was elevated to the primacy of the kingdom; in
1512, John Hephurn, prior of the Augustinian monastery, founded the college of St. Leonard, and endowed it
from the revenues of the hospital which had been built
for the reception of pilgrims visiting the shrine of St.
Andrew, and out of his own private property, chiefly for
the education of the brethren of the convent. During
the numerous religious persecutions which preceded the
Reformation, George Buchanan, afterwards preceptor of
James VI., was imprisoned in the castle of St. Andrew's,
for writing against the Francisan friars, but contrived
to make his escape through one of the windows, and
fled into England. In 1538, Archbishop Beaton, uncle
and predecessor of Cardinal Beaton, began to repair and
enlarge the pedagogium, or ancient seat of the university, which, on his decease, was continued by the cardinal, who added largely to its endowment, and converted
it into the college of St. Mary, or the New College.
This establishment, which was subsequently improved
by Archbishop Hamilton, was remodelled in 1579, by
Archbishop Adamson and Buchanan, and since that
time has been confined to the study of theology. In
1559, after a sermon preached by John Knox, the reformer, the populace immediately commenced the destruction of the venerable cathedral of St. Andrew's,
which, in a few hours, they reduced to a heap of ruins;
and they afterwards plundered and destroyed most of
the other religious establishments of the city.

In 1583, James VI., escaping from the thraldom in
which he was held by Gowrie, Glencairn, and others,
shut himself up in the castle, by connivance of the
governor, where he was joined by a number of his loyal
subjects; and after his accession to the English throne,
he assembled here a meeting of the prelates and principal clergy, to deliberate on the future interests of the
church. In 1645, the Scottish parliament met in the
city, and passed sentence of death upon Sir Robert
Spottiswood, son of the late archbishop, and three other
royalists, who had been taken prisoners at the battle of
Philiphaugh, and who were publicly executed in the
principal street of the city. In 1679, Archbishop
Sharpe was murdered at Magnus Muir, within four
miles of the city, by a party of the Covenanters, of
whom five, that were afterwards taken prisoners at the
battle of Bothwell Bridge, were executed on the spot
where the murder was committed, and their bodies hung
in chains. Previously to the Reformation, the city was
a place of considerable commercial importance, and the
resort of numerous merchants from France, Holland,
and other trading ports; and nearly 300 vessels had
been known to arrive in the harbour; but, after the
Reformation, and the consequent suppression of its ecclesiastical supremacy, its trade and shipping fell into
rapid decay. In 1655, it was so reduced that a petition was addressed by the magistrates and council to
General Monk, praying to be relieved from an assessment, on the ground of "the total decay of shipping and
sea trade, and the removal of the most eminent inhabitants;" and in 1656, there was only one vessel, of 20
tons burthen, belonging to the port. The chief support
of the inhabitants has since been derived from its
university; and although its trade has, in some degree,
revived, yet the city has never regained its original
commercial importance.

The town is beautifully situated on the bay of St.
Andrew's in the German Sea, and mainly consists of
three spacious and nearly parallel streets, of which the
principal is South-street, at the western extremity of
which is Argyle Port, the only remains of the ancient
fortifications of the city; it is still in good preservation,
and over the arched gateway are the city arms, nearly
obliterated by time. Beyond South-street, is Marketstreet, to the north of which is North-street; and still
further to the north, and bordering upon the bay,
was Swallow-street, formerly the principal residence of
the merchants, but which has long since disappeared,
and the site been converted into a public walk called
the Scores. These streets are intersected, at right
angles, by several smaller streets; and a new street
called Bell-street, has recently been formed, connecting
North with Market street, and which it is proposed to
extend to South-street. The houses are generally well
built, and of handsome appearance, and many of them
are spacious; the streets are paved, and lighted with
gas, and the inhabitants are amply supplied with excellent water. A public subscription library was established about 1821, and has now a collection of more
than 1200 volumes; a literary and philosophical society
was instituted in 1839, and a mechanics' library was
formed a few years since, but shortly after became
extinct. The sea-beach is well adapted for bathing;
and near the castle, on an eminence overlooking the
sea, a building has been erected, containing every requisite accommodation of hot and cold baths. On the extensive links to the west of the town, the ancient game
of golf is pursued by the inhabitants, as their principal
recreation; a club for that purpose, consisting of several
noblemen and gentlemen, was established in 1754, and
to such an extent is this amusement followed, that not
less than 5000 balls are annually used by the players.
The environs of the town possess much beauty and
variety of scenery, and the numerous remains of its
ancient ecclesiastical structures, and its colleges and
public buildings, give to it a venerable and interesting
appearance.

The University, which
consists of St. Mary's, or the
New, College, and the united
colleges of St. Salvator and
St. Leonard, is under the controul of a chancellor, chosen
by the senatus academicus;
two principals, appointed by
the crown, one for St. Mary's,
with a stipend of £238, and
one for St. Salvator's, with
an income of £307; and a
rector, annually elected by
the professors and students, from the professors of
divinity and ecclesiastical history in St. Mary's, and the
principal of St. Salvator's. The professorships of divinity, Hebrew, and ecclesiastical history, in St. Mary's,
and the professorship of mathematics in the United
College, are in the patronage of the Crown, and are
valued respectively at £232, £211, £286, and £440, per
annum. The professorships in the United College in its
own gift, are, the Greek, valued at £444; logic, £310;
moral philosophy, £372; and natural philosophy, £278:
that of medicine, £227, is in the patronage of the university. The professorship of humanity, valued at
£458, is in the gift of the Duke of Portland; the professorship of civil history, valued at £199, is in the patronage of the Marquess of Ailsa; and that of chemistry,
founded from a bequest by Dr. Gray, and to which
the first appointment was made in 1840, is valued at
£70, and is in the patronage of the Earl of Leven. The
senatus academicus consists of the principals and professors of both colleges, and the rector of the university
presides at its meetings; by this body alone, degrees
are conferred, the several faculties recommending the
candidates. The College of St. Mary is confined to the
study of theology; the students neither wear gowns, nor
pay any fees, but, previously to their admission, must
have passed through the ordinary routine of classical
and philosophical studies in some of the Scottish colleges; the session commences on the 1st of December,
and closes on the 31st of March. In the gift of this
college are twenty bursaries, among which are, one of
£18, two of £15 each, ten between £15 and £10, three of
£10, and one of £7; the college has also the patronage
of several incumbencies. The buildings, which have
been restored, and partly rebuilt, occupy a quadrangle,
on the north side of which is the university library, containing more than 45,000 volumes, open to the use of
both colleges; on the west side, are the divinity hall
and principal's lodge. The front towards the street has
been made to harmonize with the new buildings, and
ornamented with a series of shields, containing the
armorial bearings of the several chancellors of the university, from its foundation to the present time.

Seal of the University.

The Colleges of St. Salvator and St. Leonard were
united by act of parliament, in 1747, and placed under
the superintendence of one principal; the students wear
gowns of scarlet frieze, and pay a fee of £3. 3. to each
of the professors whose lectures they attend; the session commences on the first Tuesday in October, and
closes on the last Friday in April. In the gift of the
college, are sixty-four bursaries, of the aggregate value
of £900; of these, there are several of £20 each, four
of £15, two of £14, forty of £10, ten between £10 and
£5 each, and one of £5. Eight are in the patronage of
the Madras school; seven in that of the university and
united college; three, of £100 each, in the patronage
of Sir Alexander Ramsay, Bart., for candidates of the
names of Ramsay, Durham, Carnegie, and Lindsay;
and the remainder are open to general competition.
The college has also the patronage of the livings of
Dunino, Kemback, Kilmany, Cults, and Forteviot. The
buildings form a spacious quadrangle, containing the
apartments in which the professors deliver their lectures;
a hall; a venerable chapel, in which is the tomb of the
founder of St. Salvator's, Bishop Kennedy, with an inscription partly obliterated; and a museum connected
with the literary and philosophical society of St. Andrew's. The chapel, which was formerly much larger,
and had an exquisitely groined roof, since removed, from
an unfounded apprehension of insecurity, is now used
as the parish church of St. Leonard. In the tomb of
Bishop Kennedy were found, an exquisitely wrought
silver mace, now appropriated to the use of the college,
and five others, of which two are preserved in the
college of St. Mary, and one each were presented to
the universities of Aberdeen, Glasgow, and Edinburgh.
The college also possesses two silver arrows which
were annually awarded as prizes to a company of archers,
from the year 1618 to 1751, and, after being held by
the winners for one year, were returned with silver
medals attached to them; to one, are appended 39
medals, weighing together 166 ounces, and to the other,
30, weighing 55 ounces. Of the college of St. Leonard,
now in ruins, all that remains, are, the roofless chapel,
the hall, and some other buildings which have been
converted into dwellings; in the chapel are the monuments of the founder, Prior Hepburn; of Robert Stewart,
Earl of March, Bishop of Caithness, and commendator
of the priory of St. Andrew's; and a mural monument to
Robert Wilkie, for twenty-one years principal of the
college. The hall contained the refectory and dormitories of the students; and on one of the walls, is the
inscription "Erexit Gul. Guild. S.S.T.D.," with the date
"1650."

The Madras College, situated in South-street, was
founded by the Rev. Dr. Andrew Bell, one of the prebendaries of Westminster, who, in 1831, conveyed, for
that and other purposes, to the provost of St. Andrew's,
the two ministers of the parish, and the professor of
Greek in the university, £60,000 three per cent reduced
annuities, and £60,000 three per cent consols. Of these
funds, five-twelfths were to be transferred by them to
the provost, magistrates, and town council of Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leith, Aberdeen, and Inverness, for
the foundation of schools on the Madras system; onetwelfth to the trustees of the Royal Naval School, for a
similar purpose; and one-twelfth to the provost and
council of St. Andrew's, for the formation of a permanent
fund for the moral and religious improvement of the
city. The remaining five shares were to be vested
in the same trustees, substituting only the sheriff depute
of Fife for the professor of Greek, after the death of the
present professor, for the erection and endowment of
a college, to be called the Madras College of St. Andrew's, and to the establishment of eight bursaries in
the United College, tenable by such as have been three
years in the Madras College. Buildings were soon after
erected, in the Elizabethan style, from a design by Mr.
Burn, architect, of Edinburgh, inclosing a spacious
quadrangular area, and containing the requisite classrooms for the school, and two handsome residences for
the English and classical masters. The college, which
is under the visitation of the lord-lieutenant of the
county, the lord justice clerk of Scotland, and the
bishop of Edinburgh, is conducted on the Madras
system, by a classical master and an assistant, and
an English master, who has also an assistant, the
former having a salary of £50, and the latter of £25,
from the funds of the college, in addition to their fees;
by masters of arithmetic, writing, and the modern languages, each of whom has a salary of £50, in addition
to their fees; and by masters of the mathematics, geography, drawing, and church music. The total number
of the pupils is about 800, including those of the English and grammar schools of the city, which have been
incorporated with this institution; and about 150 children of the poorest citizens, also, receive a gratuitous
education in the establishment.

The only manufactures in the town are, that of golf
balls, of which about 10,000 are annually made; and
the weaving of linen, for the manufacturers of Dundee.
The Trade of the port is very inconsiderable; some
vessels occasionally bring cargoes of timber from Norway and the Baltic, but when drawing more than fourteen feet of water, they are obliged to discharge part of
their lading before they can enter the harbour. The
number of vessels belonging to the port, is fourteen, of
the aggregate burthen of 680 tons: the harbour is
formed chiefly by the Kinness rivulet, and is difficult of
access; it was deepened in 1836, and, at spring tides,
can receive vessels of 300 tons. The river Eden, on the
northern confines of the parish, is navigable for about
two miles from its mouth; and on its banks is a distillery, to which small vessels convey supplies of coal
and grain, and take back cargoes of spirits. On this
river is a salmon fishery belonging to the city, to which
it pays a rental of about £7; there are also several
boats employed in the fisheries off the coast. The fish
usually taken are, haddock, cod, ling, skate, halibut,
and flounders, of which the produce, after supplying
the home markets, is sent to Cupar; and during the
season, the greater part of the boats are employed in
the herring-fishery off the coast of Caithness. The city
received its first charter of
incorporation from David I.,
in 1140, erecting it into a
royal burgh; and under this
charter, confirmed by Malcolm IV., in 1153, the government is vested in a provost, four bailies, a dean of
guild, a treasurer, and twenty-two councillors. There are
seven incorporated guilds,
viz., the smiths, wrights,
bakers, shoemakers, tailors,
weavers, and butchers, into one of which an individual
must be admitted, previously to his becoming a burgess
qualified to carry on trade; the fees vary from £45 to
£15 for strangers, from £20 to £12 for apprentices,
and from £2. 10. to £1 for sons of freemen. The magistrates exercise civil and criminal jurisdiction within
the burgh, the former to any amount, but the latter confined chiefly to petty offences, for which purpose they
hold a bailie-court twice in the week, and courts for
the recovery of small debts on the first Monday in every
month; in the latter, the number of cases has greatly
diminished since the establishment of the sheriff's smalldebt court. A dean-of-guild court is also held, occasionally. The city, with the burghs of Anstruther
Easter and Wester, Crail, Cupar, Kilrenny, and Pittenweem, returns a member to the imperial parliament;
the number of qualified voters is about 280. The townhall, an ancient building, situated in Market-street,
has been recently enlarged and repaired; and the gaol,
which is chiefly for the temporary confinement of petty
delinquents, is under good regulations. The market is
held weekly on Monday, and is well supplied with
grain; and markets for poultry, butter, eggs, and provisions of all kinds, are held on Wednesday and Saturday. There are fairs on the second Thursday in April,
the 1st of August, and the 30th of November (all O. S.);
the first, anciently called the Senzie Fair, was formerly
of 15 days' continuance, and was resorted to by merchants from various foreign ports. The post-office has
a daily delivery; and communication is maintained
with Dundee and Edinburgh, by good roads, of which
those from Dundee and Cupar meet in the north of the
parish.

Second Seal of the Burgh.

The parish is bounded on the east by the German
Sea, and is about ten miles in length, and two miles in
extreme breadth, comprising 10,300 acres, of which
9840 are arable, 345 woodland and plantations, and the
remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. The surface is
generally level, except towards the east, where the hills
of Balrymont have an elevation of 370 feet, and the hill
of Clatto, to the west, which rises to the height of 548
feet above the sea; the coast is about six miles in extent,
and is bounded, in some parts, with rocks, of which the
Maiden rock, and those of Kinkell and Buddo are the
most conspicuous. About a mile from the town is the
cave of Kinkell, about 80 feet in length, and 25 feet
wide; the roof, apparently of one entire stone, is about
11 feet in height, but inclining so much towards the
east as to form an angle with the floor, which, on the
west side, about 40 feet from the entrance, is covered
with plants whose growth is promoted by water constantly trickling from the roof. The principal river is
the Eden, over which is an ancient bridge of six arches,
called the Gair or Guard bridge, built by Bishop Wardlaw, and wide enough only for one carriage to pass;
there are also two small rivulets, of which the larger,
after a course of nearly five miles, having turned several
corn-mills, flows into the harbour, on the south-east;
and the other falls into the sea at the north-west of the
city. The soil is mostly fertile, and the lands are generally better adapted for tillage than for pasture, producing abundant crops of grain of all kinds; the system of
agriculture is improved, and many acres of land near
the mouth of the Eden have been protected from inundation by embankment. The cattle, which were previously all of the Fifeshire breed, have, within the last
few years, been mixed with various others of recent introduction; and the sheep, of which the number has
been for some time gradually increasing, are principally
of the Highland and Cheviot breeds. The chief substrata are, sandstone, in which are found thin seams of
coal, slate clay, and clay ironstone; the sandstone is of
a grey colour, very durable, and of good quality for
building. The plantations, which are mainly around
the houses of the landed proprietors, and in a thriving
state, are mostly ash, oak, elm, beech, plane, and larch,
with some Scotch firs, which are chiefly on the poorer
soils.

The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence of the presbytery of St. Andrew's and synod
of Fife; the living is collegiate, consisting of two
charges, of which the first is in the patronage of the
Crown, and the second in that of the Magistrates and
Council of the city. The minister of the first charge
has a stipend of £439. 9. 4., with a glebe valued at
£23 per annum; and the minister of the second charge
has £171. 18. 2., with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£16. 15. per annum. The parish church, originally
erected by Bishop Turgot, about the commencement of
the 12th century, is a spacious structure with a tower
and spire, and anciently contained numerous chapels,
which were suppressed at the Reformation; after the
destruction of the cathedral, it was substituted as the
cathedral of the archbishops of St. Andrew's. It was
rebuilt in 1798, and contains about 2200 sittings; in
the aisle is a splendid monument of white marble, erected
to the memory of Archbishop Sharpe, by his son, in
1679. A chapel in connexion with the Established
Church has been recently erected at Strathkinness, in
the parish, at a cost of £400, raised by subscription; it
contains 124 fixed sittings, and moveable benches for
about 230 persons; the minister has a stipend of
£54. 12., of which one-half is paid by the minister of the
first charge of the parish, and the remainder by the
heritors. An episcopal chapel was built in 1825, at a
cost of £1400; there are also places of worship for
members of the Free Church and United Secession,
Baptists, and Independents. Among the monuments of
antiquity with which the city and its environs abound,
are the remains of the church of St. Regulus, which,
with every appearance of probability, is supposed to be
the original structure erected by Hirgustus, King of the
Picts, on his conversion to Christianity. They consist
chiefly of the tower, 108 feet high and 20 feet square at
the base, formerly surmounted by a spire; and the
eastern portion of the church, 31 feet in length, and 25
feet wide, having two windows on the north, and two on
the south side. Since the decay of the spire, the tower
has been roofed with a platform of lead, to which there
is an ascent by a spiral staircase within. On the east
and west faces of the tower, are traces of several roofs
of different heights, with which the church has been
covered at various times; and from the summit is
obtained an extensive prospect over the bay and the
adjacent country.

The ancient Cathedral, completed in 1318, was a magnificent cruciform structure, 375 feet in length, 180 feet
across the transepts, and 72 feet in mean breadth, with
a lofty central tower, of which nothing now remains but
the bases of the columns whereon it was supported; it
had also two turrets at the western, two at the eastern,
extremity, and one at the end of the south transept,
each 100 feet in height. Of this splendid structure,
which was destroyed at the commencement of the Reformation, only the eastern gable, with its turrets, one of
the turrets at the west, and a portion of the walls, are
now remaining; the style of its architecture is partly
Norman, and partly of the early and later English,
which latter is more prominent in the western portion
of the building, from the greater richness of its details.
The interior has been cleared, by order of Her Majesty's
exchequer, from the accumulated heaps of rubbish with
which it had been, for years, obscured; and such repairs
have been made as were requisite for the preservation
of the remains. Within the area of the cathedral precincts, which occupy a space of about 18 acres, are
some portions of the Priory, or Augustine monastery,
founded by Robert, Bishop of St. Andrew's, and other
monastic buildings, in a state of irretrievable decay;
the whole is inclosed by a wall erected by Prior Hepburn, originally almost a mile in circuit, 20 feet in height,
and four feet thick, defended by 16 turrets, at irregular
distances, and having three handsome gateways, above
one of which, still remaining, is a mutilated statue of
the Virgin Mary. To the north-west of the cathedral,
on an eminence overlooking the sea, are the remains of
the Castle, rebuilt by Bishop Trail, about the close of
the 14th century; after the murder of Cardinal Beaton,
in 1546, it was besieged and destroyed, but was
subsequently rebuilt by Archbishop Hamilton, and
continued to be the residence of the prelates till 1591,
since which period it has been suffered to fall into decay.
The only remains are, part of the south side of the quadrangle, with a handsome square tower, and a few other
fragments. The ancient convent of Franciscan friars
was demolished at the Reformation, and the site is now
occupied by a part of Bell-street; and the Dominican
convent founded in 1274, shared the same fate, with
the exception of its chapel, a beautiful specimen of the
early English style, within the grounds of the Madras
College, and for the preservation of which Dr. Bell, the
founder, made due provision. On an eminence to the
west of the harbour, are the ruins of the Kirkheuch, a
Culdee establishment, for a provost and ten prebendaries, said to have been erected by Constantine II., in the
ninth century, and of which Constantine III., after resigning his crown, became abbot.

Andrew's, St.

ANDREW'S, ST., a parish, in the county of Orkney;
containing, exclusively of the late quoad sacra parish
of Deerness, 926 inhabitants. This parish is situated on
the eastern coast of the mainland, and is bounded on
the north by the Frith of Shapinshay; on the east by
Deer Sound, which separates it from Deerness; and
on the west by the bay of Inganess. It is about six
miles in extreme length, and two in average breadth,
and is connected with the peninsula of Deerness by a
narrow isthmus less than a quarter of a mile in length;
the coast is so singularly indented with bays and inlets
from the sea, that its form cannot be well defined, or its
extent accurately ascertained, though it is generally
estimated at 13 square miles, and the line of coast at
about 18 miles. The surface, though generally low, is
intersected by three nearly parallel and equidistant
ridges of inconsiderable height, and diversified with hills
of gentle acclivity, of which the highest has an elevation
of 350 feet above the sea, and, towards the north-east,
terminates in precipitous rocks, of strikingly romantic
appearance; in one of these is a remarkable cavern, 60
feet in length, and about 30 feet wide, communicating
with the sea by a passage, through which a boat may
pass at certain times of the tide. Deer Sound forms an
excellent roadstead for vessels in boisterous weather;
it is about four miles long, and two miles broad, and has
a depth of six or seven fathoms at the entrance, with a
sandy bottom, and affords good anchorage for vessels of
any size. Inganess bay, on the north-west coast, about
two miles and a half in length, and more than a mile in
breadth, varies in depth from three to twelve fathoms,
and affords good anchorage and shelter from all winds.
Neither of these bays, however, is at present much
frequented.

The soil is extremely various in different parts of the
parish, consisting of sand, loam, clay, and moss, alternating, and frequently found in combination; the number of acres under tillage is about 2200; the chief crops
are oats and bear, with a small proportion of potatoes
and turnips. The farming is in a very unimproved
state; some attempts have been made to drain the lands,
but very little progress has hitherto been effected in the
general system of agriculture. Little attention has been
paid to the improvement of the breeds of live stock; the
horses most in use are those of the Norwegian kind
called the Garron, strong and hardy, but seldom exceeding 14 hands in height; the black cattle are small, thin,
and ill-conditioned, from the scantiness of the pastures; and the sheep are inferior to those of the Zetland
breed, and not so remarkable for fineness of wool.
The farm-buildings are generally of stones and clay,
roofed with thatch; and the few inclosures that have
taken place, are made by mounds of turf. The rocks
are argillaceous sandstone and flag, apparently of the
old red sandstone formation, alternated with trap, and
traces of calc-spar and pyrites of iron are found occasionally; slates of inferior quality, and also freestone,
are obtained in some parts.

The manufacture of kelp, formerly carried on here to
a great extent, has of late been greatly diminished;
and that of straw-plat, which was also extensive, has
been almost discontinued. Fairs for cattle are held at
Candlemas, Midsummer, and Martinmas. The fish
generally found off the coast are, cod, haddocks, flounders, skate, thornbacks, and coal-fish; and crabs, lobsters, cockles, and other shell-fish, are found on the
shores; but no regular fishery of these has been established. The herring-fishery was commenced in 1833,
and is carried on to a very considerable extent; curing-houses have been erected, and there is every prospect
of the formation of an extensive and lucrative herring
station at this place. Communication with Kirkwall,
and with other parts of the mainland, is maintained by
good roads, of which that to Kirkwall is one of the best
in the county. The ecclesiastical affairs of the parish
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of
Kirkwall and synod of Orkney; the minister's stipend
is £200, exclusive of £8. 6. 8. for communion elements,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £14 per annum;
patron, the Earl of Zetland. The church, built in 1801,
and enlarged in 1827, is a neat structure, conveniently
situated, and containing 400 sittings. A Free Church
place of worship has been erected here. The parochial
school affords the general course of study; the master
has a salary of £27, with a house and garden, and the
fees average £9. There are some slight vestiges of
ancient chapels; and on the point of Inganess are traces
of an old circular fort of stones and earth, commanding the entrance of Deer Sound. Several tumuli also
remain, one of which, on the glebe land, is about 140
yards in circumference at the base, and 12 feet high;
another, nearly in the centre of the parish, is 90 yards
in circumference, and 16 feet high, and a third, of much
larger dimensions, is situated on the isthmus at the
southern extremity of the parish.

Andrew's Lhanbryde, St.

ANDREW'S LHANBRYDE, ST., a parish, in the
county of Elgin, 3 miles (E.) from Elgin; containing
1176 inhabitants, of whom 174 are in the village of
Lhanbryde. To this parish, which was anciently called
the barony of Kill-ma-Lemnock, Lhanbryde, signifying
in Gaelic "The church of St. Bridget," was united in
1782, in addition to two other chapels that had been
joined before the Reformation. It is three miles broad,
from east to west, and about four long, from south to
north, exclusively of the Teindland, which is detached
one mile distant on the south, and although generally
considered as belonging to this parish, pertains to that
of Elgin. It contains about 5000 acres, of which four-fifths are under cultivation, and 650 acres are woodland,
and is intersected by the great north road and the river
Lossie. The isolated tract just named was originally
the moor where the cattle were collected for drawing
part of the teinds of both parishes, before they were
converted into money; from which circumstance it derives its name. The surface has, in general, the appearance of a plain, in which a series of low hills rise, apparently connected together, and all covered with corn,
grass, or wood. The district is subject, in the spring
season, to a succession of storms, some of which are of
the most violent, piercing, and blighting nature, equally
injurious to vegetation and to animal life. There are
three lakes on the confines of the parish, of which the
largest, called Spynie, consisting of shallow water resting upon a deep rich mould, offered a temptation to
drainage, which, a few years since, was prosecuted at an
expense of nearly £10,000, but the operation has not
yet fully succeeded. These lakes abound with trout,
eels, and pike, and are visited by a great variety of wild
ducks, and sometimes by wild geese and swans. The
river Lossie, which, entering the parish at the northwest corner, divides it there from the town of Elgin, is
subject to great floodings, and the grounds on its banks
frequently suffer serious injury; salmon, pike, trout,
&c. are found in it, though not in any considerable
quantity.

The soil in general is sandy, yet fertile where the
land is low and damp, for, in this part of the county,
the farmer has mostly to complain of drought, by which
he loses much every summer. All kinds of grain are
produced in a larger quantity than is necessary for
domestic use, as well as the ordinary green crops and
grasses; and most of the farms are of considerable size,
and occupied by gentlemen of skill, and with adequate
capital. The whole extent of the parish is incumbent
upon a bed of limestone belonging to the calciferous
sandstone of the old red formation. About a mile
eastward of the manse, a small section made by the
burn of Llanbryde exposes a bed of the inferior oolite
kind; and two miles north-west of the manse appear, at
Linksfield, Pitgaveny, &c. insulated patches of the Purbeck beds of the wealden, or fresh-water deposit, rarely
met with in Scotland. Limestone is burnt for agricultural
and building purposes, and the wealden clays and
marls are applied to fertilizing the light sandy soil in
the neighbourhood. Pitgaveny House is a handsome
residence, with grounds tastefully laid out. There is a
manufacture of malt in the parish; and a cast-iron
foundry, and a manufactory of woollen stuffs, are carried on, the latter of which employs about 45 hands.
A fair is held at Lhanbryde on the 4th Tuesday in
October, when cattle, farming implements, and similar
commodities, are exposed for sale. The ecclesiastical
affairs are directed by the presbytery of Elgin and synod
of Moray; the patronage is vested in the Crown and
the Earl of Moray, alternately, and the minister's stipend is £206. 19., with a manse. The church is a commodious building, and will hold between 400 and 500
persons. There is a parochial school, the master of
which has a salary of £34. 14., with a house and garden, and about £12 fees, and teaches the classics, mathematics, French, and Gaelic, together with the ordinary branches of education. About half a mile south
of the manse is a small square fort of great antiquity,
called the Tower of Coxton, and which appears to have
been of considerable strength. The neighbourhood
affords numerous specimens of interest, in the form of
fossils. Many of the distinguishing fossils of the inferior oolite, have been found in the bed exposed by the
Lhanbryde burn; at Linksfield a great variety also occurs,
and of the greatest number and interest, in a darkcoloured shale bed containing slabs of highly crystalized limestone.

Angus.

ANGUS.—See Forfarshire.

Annan

ANNAN, a royal burgh,
and a parish, in the county
of Dumfries, 16 miles (E.
S. E.) from Dumfries, and 79
(s.) from Edinburgh; containing, with part of Brydekirk quoad sacra, 5471 inhabitants, of whom 4409 are
in the burgh. This place,
which is of remote antiquity,
and supposed to have been
a Roman station of some importance, was, after the departure of the Romans from Britain, occupied by the
ancient inhabitants till their expulsion by the Northumbrian Saxons. After the dissolution of the Saxon heptarchy, the surrounding territories were annexed to the
kingdom of Scotland, in the reign of Malcolm Canmore;
and the lands were subsequently granted to Robert de
Bruce, Lord of Annandale, who built a castle for the
defence of the town, in which he occasionally resided.
From its proximity to the English border, the town was
frequently plundered during the Border warfare, and
sometimes burnt; and it suffered greatly in the wars
consequent on the disputed succession to the Scottish
throne, in the reign of Edward I. of England. In 1298,
the town and church were burnt by the English, but
were subsequently restored by Robert Bruce, who, in
1306, ascended the throne of Scotland; and in 1332,
Edward Baliol, after his coronation at Scone, repaired
to the castle of Annan, whither he summoned the
nobility of Scotland, to pay him homage. During his
continuance here, Archibald Douglas, the firm adherent
of the Bruces, having collected a force of 1000 cavalry
at Moffat, advanced to Annan during the night, and
having surprised and defeated his guards, Baliol was
induced to make his escape from the castle, and, hastily
mounting a horse with neither saddle nor bridle, with
considerable difficulty reached Carlisle, without a single
attendant.

Seal and Arms.

In 1547, the town was plundered and burnt by the
English under Wharton, accompanied by the Earl of
Lennox, on which occasion, as the castle was at that
time dismantled, the inhabitants fortified the church,
and for some time successfully resisted the invaders.
In the two following years, the town and the surrounding district were continually infested by the predatory
incursions of the English borderers, against whose
attacks the governor, Maxwell, levied a tax of £4000,
for repairing the castle, and placing it in a state of defence. During the regency of Mary of Guise, on the
arrival of a large body of French soldiers in the river
Clyde, the greater number of them were stationed in the
town, for the protection of the neighbourhood; and in
1570, the castle was again destroyed by the English
forces, under the Earl of Sussex; but it was afterwards
restored, and continued to be kept up, as a border fortress, till the union of the two crowns by the accession
of James VI. At this time, the town was reduced to
such a state of destitution, that the inhabitants, unable
to build a church, obtained from that monarch a grant
of the castle, for a place of public worship; and during
the wars in the reign of Charles I., the town suffered so
severely, that, by way of compensation, the parliament,
after the restoration of Charles II., granted to the corporation the privilege of collecting customs and other
duties for their relief. The Highland army, on their
retreat before the Duke of Cumberland, in the rebellion
of 1745, encamped here on the night of the 28th of
December, after having lost great numbers of their men,
who were drowned while attempting to cross the rivers
Esk and Eden.

The town, which is pleasantly situated on the eastern
bank of the river Annan, about a couple of miles from
its influx into Solway Frith, consists of several spacious
and regularly-formed streets, intersecting each other at
right angles; and is connected with the country lying
upon the opposite bank of the river, by an elegant
stone bridge of three arches of 65 feet span, erected in
1824, at an expense of £8000. The houses are well
built, and of handsome appearance, and in the immediate vicinity are numerous villas and mansions; the
streets are paved and lighted, and the inhabitants amply
supplied with good water. A public library is supported
by subscription. From the beauty of the scenery in
the environs of the town, and the facilities of seabathing afforded by the Frith, it is a favourite place of
residence. The spinning of cotton-yarn, which was introduced here in 1785, is still carried on, and affords
employment to about 140 persons; the factory, in which
the most improved machinery is employed, has been
recently enlarged, and the quantity of yarn produced
averages 4000 pounds per week. The usual handicraft
trades requisite for the supply of the neighbourhood,
are pursued; and there are numerous shops, amply
stocked with various kinds of merchandise. The trade
of the port partly consists in the importation of timber,
deals, lath-wood, and tar, from America and the Baltic,
in which two vessels are employed; and about thirty
vessels are engaged in the coasting trade. The exports
are chiefly grain for the Glasgow and Liverpool markets,
and timber and freestone, for various English ports.
By the steamers which frequent the port, grain, wool,
live stock, bacon, and hams, are sent to Liverpool and
the adjacent towns of Lancashire, from which they bring
manufactured goods; and the other imports are mostly
coal, slates, salt, herrings, grain, and iron, from Glasgow
and places on the English and Irish coasts. The number of vessels registered as belonging to the port, is 34,
of the aggregate burthen of 1639 tons. The port, which
is under the custom-house of Dumfries, and is formed
by an inlet from the river, has been much improved by
the embankment of Hall meadow, on the Newby estate,
by the proprietor, John Irving, Esq., at a cost of £3000,
which has rendered the channel of sufficient depth for
the safe anchorage of vessels of considerable burthen.
Two piers have been erected by the proprietors of the
steamers frequenting the port, to which has been formed
a road from the burgh, by subscription, at a cost of
£640; and a commodious inn, with good stabling, has
been built near the jetties, within the enbankment.

The ancient records of the burgh having been destroyed during the frequent devastations of the town, a
charter confirming all previous privileges, and reciting
a charter of James V. in 1538, by which it had been
erected into a royal burgh, was granted by James VI.,
in the year 1612; and under this the government of
the town is in the controul of a provost, two bailies,
and fifteen councillors. There are no incorporated guilds,
neither have the burgesses any exclusive privileges in
trade; the magistrates issue tickets of admission to the
freedom of a burgess, without any fee. Courts are held,
both for civil and criminal cases; but in neither do the
magistrates exercise jurisdiction to any considerable extent. The burgh is associated with those of Dumfries,
Kirkcudbright, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar, in returning
a member to the imperial parliament; the parliamentary
boundaries are not co-extensive with the royalty, which
comprehends a much wider district; the number of
qualified voters is about 180. A new prison, containing
three cells, was erected some years ago, in lieu of the
old prison, which is dilapidated. A market is held
on Thursday; and fairs, chiefly for hiring servants, are
held annually, on the first Thursdays in May and August,
and the third Thursday in October. Facilities of inland
communication are afforded by good roads, of which the
turnpike-road from Dumfries to Carlisle passes through
the parish, and by cross-roads connected with those to
Edinburgh and Glasgow.

The parish is about eight miles in extreme length,
and varies from two and a half to four miles in breadth,
comprising an area of 11,100 acres, of which about 1000
are woodland and plantations, and the remainder arable,
meadow, and pasture. The surface is generally level,
with a slight inclination towards the south, and is intersected by three nearly parallel ridges of moderate height.
Of these, the western ridge terminates in a conical hill
called Woodcock-air, which has an elevation of 320 feet,
and is completely covered with wood; and on the coast,
are the Annan and Barnkirk hills, of which the former
has an elevation of 256, and the latter of 120 feet above
the sea. The soil, on the banks of the river, is a rich
alluvial deposit; to the west, a clayey loam, alternated
with gravel; towards the east, a poor deep loam; and
in the northern districts, mostly light, with tracts of
moor and moss. The chief crops are grain of all kinds,
and the most improved system of husbandry is generally
in use; a large open common, of nearly 2000 acres, has
been divided among the burgesses, and is now inclosed
and cultivated; the farm-buildings are substantial and
well arranged. The pastures are rich; the cattle are of
the Galloway breed, with a few of the Ayrshire and shorthorned; there are few sheep reared, but on most of the
farms a considerable number of pigs are fed. Salmon,
grilse, and trout are found in the Annan, and in the
Frith; and in the former are three fisheries, one the
property of Mr. Irving; the fish taken are, sparling,
cod, haddock, sturgeon, turbot, soles, and skate. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £13,297, including
£5163 for the burgh. The principal substrata are, fine
sandstone well adapted for building, limestone, and
ironstone; several attempts have been made to discover
coal, which are supposed to have failed only from the
borings not having been made to a sufficient depth.
Mount Annan, the seat of the late Lieut.-Gen. Dirom,
is a handsome mansion, situated on an eminence on the
eastern bank of the Annan, about two miles from the
town, commanding a fine view of the Frith and the
northern counties of England; the grounds are tastefully embellished, and the scenery is picturesque. Warmanbie, on the east bank of the Annan, about half a
mile to the south of Mount Annan, is an elegant mansion, erected within the last few years, and surrounded
with pleasure-grounds; and Northfield House, on the
same river, is also a handsome mansion, recently enlarged.

The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence of the presbytery of Annan and synod of
Dumfries; the minister's stipend is £279. 2. 4., with a
manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per annum; patron,
Hope Johnstone, Esq., of Annandale. The church,
erected in 1790, is a handsome structure, with a spire,
and contains 1190 sittings. A second church, situated
on the south of the town, a very handsome building,
affording accommodation to 950 persons, was erected at
a cost of £1400, and opened in 1842; and there are
also places of worship for Episcopalians, Independents,
Roman Catholics, members of the Free Church, United
Associate Synod, and Relief Church. The parochial
school is attended by nearly 100 children; the master has
a salary of £31. 16. 6., with a house and garden, and the
fees average about £40 per annum. The Annan academy,
for which a building has been erected, containing commodious class-rooms, was built and endowed with the funds
arising to the burgh from the division of the common
land; it is under the direction of a rector and two assistant masters, and is attended by 140 pupils; the income
from the endowment is £113, and the fees are considerable. The only remains of the castle of Annan, are, a
small portion of one of the walls, incorporated in the town-hall, and a stone built into a wall of a small house, with
the inscription, "Robert de Brus, Comte de Carrick, et
seiniour de Val de Annand, 1300." About two miles
from the town, and to the north of the Carlisle road,
was a rude monument to the memory of the Scots who
fell in a battle with the English, in which the latter were
defeated, with great slaughter; among the English slain
in the conflict, were, Sir Marmaduke Longdale, Sir
Philip Musgrave, and Lord Howard, whose remains
were interred in the churchyard of Dornock. Close to
the spot, is a well in which the Scots washed their
swords after the battle, and which has since been called
the "Sword Well." Near the site of the castle, is an
artificial mound, supposed to have been the spot for
administering justice, during the times of the Saxons;
and further up the river, is an elevated bank called
Galabank, the place of execution. On Battle Hill, has
been lately discovered a mineral spring, of great strength,
which has not yet been analysed. The celebrated Dr.
Thomas Blacklock; Hugh Clapperton, the African traveller; and the late Rev. Edward Irving, minister of
the Scottish church in Regent-square, London, were
natives of the place.

Anstruther Easter

ANSTRUTHER EASTER, a burgh, sea-port, and
parish, in the district of St.
Andrew's, county of Fife,
9 miles (S. S. E.) from St.
Andrew's, and 35½ (N. E.
by N.) from Edinburgh;
containing 997 inhabitants.
This place, which is of great
antiquity, was, in the reign
of Malcolm IV., the property
of William de Candela, Lord
of Anstruther, whose sons
assumed the name of their patrimonial inheritance, and
whose descendants are the present proprietors. It appears to have derived its early importance from its
favourable situation on the Frith of Forth, and the security of its harbour, in which, on the dispersion of the
Spanish armada, the captain of one of the vessels found
an asylum from the storm. The town, which was
first lighted with gas in 1841, is separated from the parish of Anstruther Wester by a small rivulet called the
Dreel burn, over which is a bridge, and consists of a
long narrow street, on the road from the East Neuck of
Fife to Kirkcaldy and Burntisland, extending along
the margin of the Frith. The trade appears to have
been formerly very considerable; a custom-house was
erected here in 1710, and in 1827, the jurisdiction of the
port was extended to those of St. Andrew's, Crail,
Pittenweem, St. Monan's, and Elie. The amount of
duties once averaged £1500 yearly; ship-building was
carried on to a considerable extent, but, after gradually
declining for several years, it was at length entirely discontinued. The chief manufacture now pursued is that
of leather; barrels are made for the package of herrings
taken off the coast, and more than 40,000 barrels of
them are annually sent from this port, properly cured,
for exportation. The trade at present consists principally in the fisheries, in the exportation of grain and
other agricultural produce of the surrounding district,
and in the importation of various articles of merchandise for the supply of the neighbourhood. There is
also a large brewery. The number of vessels belonging
to the port is nine, of the aggregate burthen of 964 tons;
two packets ply regularly between this place and Leith,
and the Edinburgh and Dundee steamers touch at the
port. The harbour is safe, and easy of access, and is
protected from the south-easterly winds by a natural
breakwater, and an extensive and commodious quay;
the custom-house, though an independent establishment,
has, since the decline of the trade, communicated with
that of Kirkcaldy. The market for corn and other produce, is held on Saturday.

Burgh Seal.

The burgh was incorporated by charter of James VI.,
under which the government was vested in three bailies,
a treasurer, and fifteen councillors, assisted by a town-clerk and other officers; the bailies and treasurer are
elected by the council, who are chosen by the registered
£10 electors, under the provisions of the Burgh Reform
act. The bailies are justices of the peace within the
royalty of the burgh, which is coextensive with the
parish, and exercise both civil and criminal jurisdiction;
since 1820, however, few cases have been tried in the
civil court, and in the criminal court only twelve cases,
chiefly petty misdemeanours: the town-clerk, who is
appointed by the magistrates and council, during pleasure, is assessor in the bailies' court. By act of the
2nd and 3rd of William IV., the burgh, together with
those of Cupar, St. Andrew's, Anstruther Wester, and
others, returns one member to the imperial parliament;
the right of election is vested in the resident burgesses
and £10 householders, and the bailies are the returning officers. The town-hall is a neat building. The
parish is situated at the head of a small bay in the
Frith, and comprises about 9 acres of land, formerly included within the parish of Kilrenny, from which they
were separated in the year 1636. The rateable annual
value is £1115. The incumbency is in the presbytery of
St. Andrew's and synod of Fife; the minister's stipend
is £131. 15., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £25
per annum; patron, Sir Wyndham Carmichael Anstruther, Bart. The church, built by subscription, in 1634,
and to which a spire was added about ten years after,
was repaired in 1834, and is well adapted for 700 persons. There are places of worship for Baptists, Independents, and members of the Free Church and the
United Secession. The burgh school is attended by
about 90 scholars; the master has a salary of £5. 6. 8.,
and about £65 from fees, with a house rent-free. There
are several friendly societies, of which one, called the
"Sea Box Society", established in 1618, and incorporated by royal charter, in 1784, has an income of
£300, for the benefit of decayed ship-masters and seamen belonging to the port. The Rev. Dr. Chalmers,
and Professor Tennant, of the university of St. Andrew's,
are natives of the place.

Anstruther Wester

ANSTRUTHER WESTER, a royal burgh, and parish, in the district of St.
Andrew's, county of Fife;
adjoining Anstruther Easter,
and containing 449 inhabitants, of whom 339 are in the
burgh. This place, of which
the name is supposed to be,
in the Celtic language, descriptive of the low marshy
ground on which the church
was built, is situated on the
Frith of Forth, about six miles to the westward of Fifeness. The people, who, during the wars consequent on
the attempt to establish episcopacy, were zealously devoted to the Presbyterian form of worship, joined the
Covenanters; and many of them fell in the battle of
Kilsyth. The town suffered greatly by an inundation
of the sea, in 1670, which greatly injured the harbour,
and undermined the foundations of many of the houses:
a second inundation, which took place towards the end
of that century, swept away the houses in the principal
street, and destroyed nearly one-third part of the town.
The present town is separated from Anstruther Easter
by the Dreel burn, over which a bridge was erected, at
the joint expense of the two burghs, in 1801; it has
been much benefited by the widening of the principal
street, and the houses in that, and also in the other
streets, have been considerably improved in their appearance. The streets are paved and macadamised, and
the town is well lighted, and supplied with water. The
place was erected into a royal burgh by charter of
James VI., in 1587, and the government is vested in a
provost, two bailies, a treasurer, and eleven councillors,
elected annually, the old council choosing the new council, and the latter electing the provost, bailies, and treasurer. The magistrates hold a bailie court; but few
cases of civil actions have been brought before it for
some years; and their jurisdiction, in criminal cases,
seldom extends beyond that of petty offences, in which
they are assisted by the town-clerk, who acts as assessor.
The town-hall is a commodious building. The burgh is
associated with those of Pittenweem, Anstruther Easter,
Kilrenny, and others, in returning a member to the
imperial parliament; the number of inhabitant householders, of the yearly rent of £10, is twenty-four, of
whom twelve are burgesses.

Burgh Seal.

The parish is bounded on the south by the sea, and
is about two miles in length, and of irregular form,
comprising not more than 600 acres, of which, with the
exception of a few acres of common pasture, the whole
is arable. The soil, near the sea, is, in some parts, a
rich black loam, and in others a light sand mixed with
shells, both of which, though of no great depth, are
very fertile; in the higher grounds, the soil is of lighter
quality, intermixed with tracts of deep clay. The crops
are grain of all kinds, with potatoes, turnips, and other
green crops; the lands are chiefly inclosed with stone
dykes, though in some places with hedges of thorn.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £1998.
Grangemuir, the seat of Lord William Douglas, of Dunino, a handsome and spacious mansion, built by the late
Mr. Bruce, and greatly enlarged by the present proprietor, is pleasantly situated in grounds laid out with
much taste. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the
superintendence of the presbytery of St. Andrew's and
synod of Fife; the minister's stipend is £142. 5. 6., of
which part is paid from the exchequer, with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £22. 10. per annum; patron, Sir
Wyndham Carmichael Anstruther. The church is a
very ancient structure situated in the burgh, near the
sea-shore. The parochial school is well conducted; the
master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with £4 per annum,
the interest of a bequest, and a house and garden, and
the school-fees average about £75 per annum. There
is a bursary in the college of St. Andrew's, for a scholar
from this parish, endowed by the late William Thomson,
Esq., chief magistrate of the burgh.

Anwoth

ANWOTH, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright; containing, with part of the burgh of
barony of Gatehouse, 883 inhabitants. This parish is
bounded on the south by Wigton bay, on the south-east
by the bay of Fleet, and on the east by the river Fleet,
which separates it from the parish of Girthon. It is
about 6½ miles in length, and 2½ in breadth, comprising
an area of 10,500 acres, of which nearly one-half is
arable, and the remainder meadow and pasture. The
surface, near the sea-shore, is generally flat, and, towards the north, rises into hills of various elevation, of
which the highest, Cairnharrah, partly in this parish,
but chiefly in that of Kirkmabreek, is 1100 feet above
the sea, and commands an extensive view, embracing
the Isle of Man, part of Cumberland, and the coast of
Ireland. The river Fleet, which has one of its sources
in a small loch of that name, in the parish of Girthon,
after receiving various tributary streams, falls into the
bay of Fleet, from which it is navigable, for about three
miles, to Gatehouse; salmon, sea-trout, and flounders
are found in this river, but not in any great quantity.
The soil on the coast is dry and fertile, and in other
parts thin and light, but has been much improved by
the use of lime, which is brought from Cumberland, at
a moderate cost; marl, also, is found in the parish, and
a great abundance of shells on the sea-shore, which are
likewise used for manure. The chief crops are oats and
barley, with some wheat, and potatoes, of which large
quantities are sent to the ports on the Clyde, and to
Whitehaven and Liverpool; the system of agriculture
has been greatly improved; the lands have been well
inclosed, and the farm-houses and offices are generally
substantially built. The cattle are mostly of the black
native breed, and the sheep, for which the moorlands
afford good pasture, are principally of the black-faced
kind; considerable numbers of both are reared in the
parish, and sent to the English markets. There are
some large tracts of ancient wood on the banks of the
river, and in the grounds of the principal landed proprietors; and the plantations, which are of oak, ash,
birch, and fir, are also extensive, and in a thriving state.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £3717. The
principal mansions are, Cardoness, which has been rebuilt within the last twenty years; and Ardwall and
Rusco, which are of older date. The road from Carlisle to Port-Patrick passes along the southern border of
the parish; and the river Fleet, of which the navigation
has been greatly facilitated by the construction of a
canal, by Mr. Murray, of Broughton, affords facility for
coasting vessels bringing supplies of coal, lime, and
various kinds of merchandise, and for the transport of
cattle, sheep, and agricultural produce. The ecclesiastical affairs are under the superintendence of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright and synod of Galloway; the
minister's stipend is £230. 15. 2½., with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £10 per annum; patron, Sir David
Maxwell, Bart. The church, erected in 1826, at a cost
of nearly £1200, is a neat structure, with a tower at the
west end surmounted by a spire, and contains 400 sittings. There is a small place of worship for Burghers.
The parochial school is well attended; the master has a
salary of £34. 4. 4., with a house and garden, and the
fees average £20 per annum. The only remains of antiquity are, the Tower of Rusco, and the Castle of Cardoness, both on the river Fleet, the former two miles above
where it ceases to be navigable, and the latter beautifully situated near its mouth; they are quadrilateral
structures, apparently of great strength, but nothing is
known of their origin or history. On the summit of a
hill to the south-east of the church, are the remains of
a vitrified fort, 300 feet above the level of the sea, and
defended, where most easily accessible, by a double
fosse; near the spot, have been found several silver
coins of Elizabeth, and one of Edward VI.

Appin

APPIN, county of Argyll.—See Lismore.

Applecross

APPLECROSS, a parish, in the county of Ross and
Cromarty, 18 miles (W.) from Lochcarron; containing,
with the island of Crolin, and part of Shieldag, quoad
sacra, 2861 inhabitants. This parish was originally
called Comaraich, a Gaelic word signifying safety or
protection, on account of the refuge afforded to the
oppressed and to criminals, by a religious establishment
that existed here in ancient times. The present name,
which is of comparatively modern date, was given to the
place by the proprietor of the estate, upon its erection
into a parish, at which time five apple-trees were
planted cross-ways in his garden. The parish, which
formed part of that of Lochcarron till 1726, stretches
along the shore of the Atlantic Ocean, and is distributed
into the three large portions or districts of Applecross,
properly so called; Lochs, consisting of Torridon, Shieldag, &c.; and Kishorn. It is of irregular form, 20
miles long, and as many in breadth, and contains about
1800 acres cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, about
400 under wood, and 400 or 500 waste, besides an
immense tract of pasture in a natural state. The surface,
in its general appearance, is hilly and rugged, consisting
of rocky elevations covered with heather and wild grass;
the climate, though not unhealthy, is foggy, and very
rainy. The soil is light and gravelly, and produces good
crops of oats, barley, and potatoes; the two former are
grown to the amount, in value, of £3000 annually, and
potatoes and turnips yield about £1500; the farms are
of small extent, averaging in rent not more than £6 or
£7 each. The inclosures are very few, and though
some advances have been made in the draining and
improving of land, the agricultural state is low, the
parish being compelled frequently to import grain and
potatoes for home consumption. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £2488. The rocks consist of red
sandstone, gneiss, and quartz; at Applecross and
Kishorn are found large quantities of limestone, and at
the latter place is also a copper-mine, which, when
worked some time since, produced a fine rich ore. The
only mansion of note is on the estate of Applecross, and
is a large ancient building, with some elegant modern
additions, and surrounded by about 30 acres of thriving
plantation.

At Poldown, Shieldag, and Torridon are convenient
harbours, to which belong about twenty-one vessels of
from 20 to 50 tons' burthen each, employed in the fishing
and coasting trade: most of the population are in some
way engaged in the herring-fishery, which in certain
seasons is very profitable, and at Torridon and Balgie
are salmon-fisheries that let at £15 or £16. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the presbytery of Lochcarron and synod of Glenelg; the Crown is patron; the
minister's stipend is £158. 6. 5., partly paid from the
exchequer, and there is a manse, built in 1796, with a
glebe valued at £12 per annum. The parochial church,
which was erected in 1817, is in good repair, and accommodates 600 persons; and at Shieldag, twelve miles
distant, is a government church, built in 1827. There
is a parochial school, the master of which has a salary
of £27, with about £8 fees, and teaches the classics,
mathematics, Gaelic, and the ordinary branches of education; and four other schools are supported by
societies for promoting education. Many fossils have
been found, but their nature has not been satisfactorily
ascertained.

Applegarth and Sibbaldbie

APPLEGARTH and SIBBALDBIE, a united parish,
in the district of Annandale, county of Dumfries,
2 miles (N. W. by N.) from Lockerbie; containing, with
the chapelry of Dinwoodie, 857 inhabitants. The term
Applegarth is compounded of the words Apple and
Garth, the latter of which signifies, in the Celtic language, an "inclosure," and both conjoined are invariably taken for an "apple inclosure" or "orchard."
The word bie, or bye, which terminates the name Sibbaldbie, signifies, in the Saxon, a "dwelling-place," and
is thought to have been applied to the district thus
denominated, from its having been the residence of
Sibbald. The annexation of Sibbaldbie took place in
1609; and the chapelry of Dinwoodie, which some
suppose to have been a distinct parish, was also attached to Applegarth, and is said to have belonged
formerly to the Knights Templars, who had large possessions in Annandale. Chalmers states, on the authority of the Royal Wardrobe accounts, that, on the 7th
July, 1300, Edward I., who was then at Applegarth, on
his way to the siege of Caerlaverock, made an oblation
of seven shillings at St. Nicholas' altar, in the parish
church here, and another oblation of a like sum at the
altar of St. Thomas à Becket; and a large chest was
found some years ago, not very far from the manse,
which is conjectured to have been part of the baggage
belonging to Edward, who remained for several days at
Applegarth, waiting for his equipage. An ancient thorn,
called the "Albie Thorn," is still standing in a field,
within 500 yards of the church, said to have been
planted on the spot where Bell of Albie fell, while in
pursuit of the Maxwells, after the battle of Dryfesands.

The parish contains 11,700 imperial acres, situated in
that part of the shire formerly called the stewartry of
Annandale. The surface is diversified by two principal
ranges of hills, one on each side of the river Dryfe,
which runs from the north-east in a southerly direction;
the highest part of the western range, Dinwoodie hill,
rises 736 feet above the sea, and Adder Law, in
the eastern range, attains an elevation of 638 feet.
In addition to the Dryfe, the parish is washed, on its
eastern boundary, by the Corrie water, and on its
western, by the river Annan, the banks of which streams
are in many parts precipitous, and clothed with brush-wood and plantations. Among the trees, comprising
most of those common to the country, the larch, spruce,
and Scotch fir, after flourishing for twelve or fourteen
years, exhibit symptoms of decay, and gradually pine
away, in consequence of their roots having come into
contact with the sandstone rock and gravel. In the
rivers and their several tributary streams, eels, pike,
trout, and many smaller fish are numerous: and in the
Annan, salmon is plentiful, and of good quality. The
soil is in general fertile; the land lying between the
banks of the Annan and Dryfe is alluvial, and interspersed with strata of river gravel; the land on the
declivity of the western range, in some parts, is sharp
and good, but in many places has a wet and tilly substratum, and on the higher portions is a black moory
earth. Of the entire area, 7392 acres are either cultivated, or occasionally in tillage; 3777 are waste, or in
permanent pasture, including 60 or 70 acres of moss;
331 are under wood, and about 180 are incurably
barren. Among the white crops, wheat, which was
formerly unknown in the parish, is now an important
article; all kinds of green crops, also, are raised, of good
quality, including considerable quantities of turnips and
potatoes. The most approved system of husbandry is
followed, though it has not been carried to the same
perfection as in some other districts, chiefly from a
deficiency in manuring and draining the soil. Considerable improvements have been made, during the present century, in the erection of neat and convenient
cottages; and the breed of black-cattle has been particularly attended to, and now, in symmetry and general
excellence, rivals the best specimens of the best districts.
The rateable annual value of the parish is £6850. The
prevailing rock is the old red sandstone, and the western
ridge is interspersed with large nodules of white and
greenish whinstone, while, on the summit, there is greywacke slate and greenstone, diversified by numerous
veins of quartz.

The only seats of note are, Jardine Hall, built in 1814,
and the mansion of Hook, built in 1806, the former of
which is of red sandstone, cut from a quarry on Corncockle muir, in Lochmaben parish; the latter is chiefly of
greenstone, from the bed of the river Dryfe. The inhabitants are altogether of the agricultural class, with the
exception of a few tradesmen residing chiefly in the village of Milnhouse. The mail-road from Glasgow to
London, by Carlisle, runs through the parish: there
are two good bridges over the Annan, one of which is
on the Glasgow line, and the other on the road leading from Dumfries, across Annandale, to Eskdale. The
ecclesiastical affairs are directed by the presbytery of
Lochmaben and synod of Dumfries; patrons, Sir William Jardine, Bart., and John James Hope Johnstone,
Esq., of Annandale. There is a manse, built in 1805,
with a glebe of 6½ acres of good land, and the stipend
is £250. The church, a plain substantial structure,
built in 1760, is inconveniently situated at a distance of
five or six miles from some of the population; it has
been at different times repaired and enlarged, and accommodates 380 persons with sittings. There are two
parochial schools, in which Greek, Latin, French, and
geometry are taught, with all the ordinary branches of
education; the master of one school has a house and
garden, with a salary of £34. 5., and about £25 fees;
the other master has the same accommodation, with a
salary of £17. 2. 6., and £15 fees. Roman stations are
visible in several places, and a Roman road traverses
the parish, in a northerly direction. Part of the ruins
still remains of the church of Sibbaldbie; and a very
ancient ash stands in Applegarth churchyard, measuring
14 feet in girth, at a yard from the ground, and called
the "Gorget Tree," from having been used as a pillory.
The iron staples which held the collar or gorget were
visible not many years ago.

Appletree-Hall

APPLETREE-HALL, a village, in the parish of
Wilton, Hawick district of the county of Roxburgh,
2½ miles (N. N. E.) from Hawick; containing 75 inhabitants. It is situated in the north-eastern part of the
parish, and to the east of the road from Hawick to
Selkirk.

Arbeadie

ARBEADIE, a village, in the parish of Banchory-Ternan, county of Kincardine; containing 301 inhabitants. This village, which is of very recent origin,
takes its name from that of the estate on which it has
been built, and appears to have been erected to supply
the want of the ancient village of Banchory. A post-office has been established; there are three good inns,
and, in the immediate vicinity, a branch of the Bank of
Scotland, and a small lock-up house for the temporary
confinement of petty offenders. The Independents have
a place of worship.

Arbirlot

ARBIRLOT, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 2½
miles (W.) from Arbroath; containing, with the village
of Bonnington, 1045 inhabitants, of whom 77 are in the
village of Arbirlot. This place appears to have derived
its name, a contraction of Aber-Elliot, from the river
Elliot, which runs into the sea a little below its eastern
boundary. The earliest account connected with its
history, states, that a member of the ancient family of
Ochterlony originally owned the castle of Kelly, in the
parish; and this family was succeeded by the Irvines,
who also held the castle, which afterwards came into
the possession of the Maule family, now sole proprietors of Arbirlot. The parish is about 4 miles long,
and 3 broad, and contains 5050 acres, of which 4200
are cultivated, or occasionally under tillage, 800 waste,
and 50 wood; it is intersected by the Arbroath and
Dundee railway, and is bounded on the south by the
sea. It has an extent of coast nearly three miles long,
where the land is level and sandy, and much frequented
in the summer for the purpose of bathing; in the interior, also, much of the surface is low and flat, and the
rest gradually rises to a gentle acclivity. There is no
part deserving of particular notice, except the immediate
vicinity of the ancient castle of Kelly, which is situated
on the bank of the Elliot, and is in good preservation,
and surrounded by scenery that is highly picturesque.
The Elliot, a stream of inconsiderable magnitude, but of
great beauty, rises in Ditty Moss, in the parish of Carmylie, and, pursuing a south-easterly course for a few
miles, through a deep and romantic glen, falls into the
sea in the east part of the parish; it has numerous
mills erected upon it, and formerly abounded in salmon,
but since the construction of some dam-dykes near it,
these fish have forsaken it, although it is still frequented
by good trout.

The soil in the lower parts, consists chiefly of a light
productive loam, but, on the higher portions, is damp
and mossy, and in some places mixed with clay; the
subsoil is a gravelly clay: on the northern boundary is
an extensive muir. The average annual produce yields
£15,000, chiefly derived from crops of oats, barley, hay,
and potatoes; the rateable annual value of the parish is
£6395. The only mansion-house is the seat of Kelly,
situated in the vicinity of the old castle. A small fair is
held once a year. Near the mouth of the river, at
Wormy-hills, is an establishment for bleaching yarns,
and on the same stream are three meal-mills, and a
flax-mill. There is also a meal-mill on a small river
which forms the boundary line between this parish and
Panbride. The ecclesiastical affairs are subject to the
presbytery of Arbroath and synod of Angus and Mearns;
the patronage is vested in the Crown, and the minister's
stipend is £184.4. 5., in addition to which he has a
manse, and a glebe of the annual value of £6. The
church, rebuilt in 1832, is an elegant structure, situated
on the bank of the Elliot, and containing about 640 sittings. A place of worship has been erected by members of the Free Church. There is a parochial school,
the master of which has a salary of £34. 4., and £20
fees, &c., with a house and garden; and a savings'
bank, managed by the minister, and a parochial library,
consisting of above 500 volumes, kept in the manse, are
also supported.

Arbroath

ARBROATH, or Aberbrothock, a thriving seaport, burgh, and parish, in
the county of Forfar, 15
miles (S. E. by E.) from
Forfar, and 58 (N. N. E.)
from Edinburgh; containing,
with the late quoad sacra
parish of Abbey, and part of
that of Lady-Loan, 8707 inhabitants, of whom 7218 are
in the burgh. This place derives its name, originally
Aberbrothock, of which its present appellation is a contraction, from its situation at the mouth of the river
Brothock, which falls into the North Sea. An abbey
was founded here in the year 1178, by William the
Lion, King of Scotland, for monks of the Tyronensian
order, brought from the abbey of Kelso, and was dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, in honour of the
Archbishop Thomas à Becket. This establishment was
amply endowed by the founder and his successors, and
its abbots had a seat in parliament; in 1320, a general
assembly of the Estates of Scotland was held in the
abbey, when a declaration was drawn up, in strong and
emphatic terms, asserting the independence of the
Scottish Church of the Roman see, and renouncing all
subjection to the interference of the pope. In 1445, a
battle took place here, between the retainers of the
families of Lindsay and Ogilvie, which originated in a
contest concerning the election of a bailie of the burgh,
and in which the chieftains on both sides were killed,
and nearly 500 of their dependents. In the 16th century, the abbey was nearly destroyed by Ochterlony, a
chieftain in the neighbourhood, who, having quarrelled
with the monks, set fire to the buildings; and at the
Dissolution, which followed a few years afterwards, this
once extensive pile was little more than a wide heap
of scattered ruins. The revenues were returned at
£2483. 5. in money, with about 340 chalders of grain,
and the patronage of thirty-four parish churches; and
the site and lands belonging to the abbey, were, after
its dissolution, erected into a temporal lordship, in
favour of Claude Hamilton, third son of the Duke of
Chatelherault, who was created Lord Arbroath, which
still forms one of the inferior titles of the Duke of
Hamilton. In 1781, the town was menaced by the
commander of a French privateer, who approached the
port, and commenced a brisk firing for a short time,
which was succeeded by his sending a flag of truce, demanding from the provost and inhabitants the payment
of £30,000, as a ransom for the town, which, on their
refusal, he threatened to set on fire. The authorities of
the place obtained, by parley, a short interval, in which
having armed several of the inhabitants, they set him at
defiance, and he left the coast, making prizes of some
small craft which he met with in his retreat. A battery
was soon afterwards erected, in front of the harbour, to
protect the town from similar insult, and was kept up
till the termination of the last war, when it was dismantled.

Seal and Arms.

The town is situated at the mouth of the river Brothock, and consists principally of one spacious and
handsome street, intersected by several of inferior appearance, extending into the parish of St. Vigean's, and
forming suburbs. Many of the private houses are elegant
and substantial, and all of the houses are built of the
stone obtained from the valuable quarries in the neighbourhood; the villas in the suburbs are embellished
with gardens and shrubberies, which produce a pleasing
effect, and the general aspect of the town is prepossessing. The streets are lighted with gas made by a jointstock company; but the supply of water is rather indifferent, and is partly derived from private wells. There
is a public subscription library, supported by a proprietary
of £5 shareholders, in which is a collection of about 4000
volumes on subjects of general literature; and smaller
libraries, of miscellaneous and theological works, are
attached to the quoad sacra churches. A mechanics'
library, now containing about 400 volumes, was established in 1824, and connected with it is a mechanics' institution, or school of arts, for which an appropriate building has been completed, containing a reading-room well
supplied with periodicals and newspapers; there are also
three masonic lodges and a gardener's society. The principal manufactures are, the spinning of yarn from flax
and tow, the weaving of canvass and sail-cloth, brown and
bleached linens, the tanning of leather, the making of
candles, the smelting of iron, and the grinding of bones
for manure. The number of mills for spinning yarn
is nineteen, of which by far the greater part are in
the suburbs, affording employment, at present, to
nearly 3770, and, when trade is prosperous, to more
than 5000, persons, of whom about one-fourth are
females. The trade of the port consists chiefly in the
exportation of the manufactured goods, especially sail-cloth, of which nearly 7000 ells were exported in a
late year, and in the importation of bark, flax, hemp,
hides, oak, and fir timber, and guano for manure, with
groceries from London, and numerous articles of Baltic
produce. There are at present belonging to the port 89
vessels, of the aggregate burthen of 9100 tons; and
the number of vessels that entered inwards, in a recent
year, was 599, of which 56 were from foreign ports, and
543 employed in the coasting trade.

The harbour appears to have been first constructed
in 1394, by the inhabitants, in conjunction with the
abbot, who contributed the greater portion of the expense, in consideration of a certain duty to be paid
annually from the lands of the burgh. A pier of wood
was erected at the extremity of the High-street, which,
being found ill-adapted to the purpose, was abandoned
in 1725, and the harbour removed to the western side
of the river, where a basin faced with stone was constructed, 124 yards in length, and 80 yards in breadth,
and a substantial pier of stone built. These improvements, however, at length became insufficient, and in
1839 an act of parliament was obtained, under which a
spacious new tidal harbour has been completed to the
south and east of the old one, at a cost of £50,000. A
sea-wall of great length and solidity defends the harbour
from the violence of the waves during heavy gales, and
at the western extremity of this bulwark is a lighthouse.
Between the wall and a massive breakwater opposite to
it, is the entrance to the harbour. The port was formerly
a creek to the harbour of Montrose; but it has been
made completely independent, and has now a collector of
customs, a comptroller, and other officers of its own,
established on the spot. Connected with the harbour is
a patent-slip for repairing vessels, which is maintained by
the harbour commissioners. At a distance of twelve
miles from the shore, but opposite to the harbour, is the
Bell Rock Lighthouse, erected under an act of parliament
obtained in 1806, and completed in 1811; it is built
upon a rock about 427 feet in length, and 230 feet in
breadth, at low water, and rising to an average height of
about four feet from the sea. The lighthouse is of circular form; the two lower courses of masonry, all of
which are dove-tailed, are sunk into the rock: the diameter, at the base, is 42 feet, gradually diminishing to
the floor of the light room, which is 13 feet in diameter.
From the foundation, the elevation is solid, to the
entrance, which is at a height of 30 feet, and is attained
by a ladder of ropes with steps of wood; the walls here
are 7 feet in thickness, and gradually decrease to one
foot at the lantern, which has an elevation of 100 feet
from the base, and is 15 feet in height, and of octagonal
form. The lantern contains a light of Argand burners, with powerful reflectors, revolving round its axis in
six minutes, and in each revolution displaying, alternately, a bright and a deep red light, which, in clear
weather, may be plainly seen at a distance of eighteen
miles. Two large bells connected with the lighthouse,
are tolled by the machinery which moves the lights,
when the weather is foggy; and on the harbour of Arbroath, a building has been erected for the accommodation of the keepers, three of whom are constantly at the
lighthouse for six weeks, when they are relieved, and
spend two weeks on shore. Attached to these buildings,
is a signal tower, 50 feet high, by means of which the
keepers on the shore communicate with those on the
rock; the whole expense of the lighthouse, which is of
such important benefit to the navigation of this part of the
coast, did not exceed £60,000. The Arbroath and Forfar
railway, constructed by a company empowered to raise a
capital of £150,000 by shares, and a loan of £35,000, was
completed, and opened to the public, in January, 1839;
the line is 15 miles in length, worked by locomotive-engines, and the principal station is a handsome building
with every requisite accommodation. The Dundee and
Arbroath railway, along the coast, has also its terminal
station here, and is connected with the Arbroath and
Forfar railroad. The market is on Saturday, and is
supplied with grain of all kinds; and fairs are held on
the last Saturday in January, the first Saturday after
Whit-Monday, the 18th of July, and the first Saturday
after Martinmas.

The town was made a royal burgh by a charter of
James VI., in 1599, reciting that the original charters,
with the title-deeds of the town, and other documents,
were taken from the abbey, where they had been deposited for security, and destroyed by George, Bishop of
Moray; the inhabitants appear to have been before
incorporated by the abbots, who reserved to themselves
the nomination of one of the bailies by whom the town
was governed. By King James's confirmatory charter
of all previous rights and privileges, the burgh and harbour were made free, and the lands called the common
muir were conveyed to the burgesses, with power to
levy anchorage customs and shore dues, and to apply
the produce to the maintenance of the harbour; the
amount of harbour dues is £3000 a year, but the corporation do not now receive them. Under this charter,
the government is vested in a provost, two bailies, a
dean of guild, and treasurer, with twelve councillors,
all chosen subject to the provisions of the late Municipal
Reform act. There are seven incorporated trades, the
whole of which have the exclusive right of carrying on
their trades within the burgh, with the exception of the
weavers; the dean of guild also grants temporary
license to trade. The magistrates possess all the jurisdiction appendant to royal burghs, and hold courts of
pleas in civil actions weekly, to an unlimited extent,
and also criminal courts, in which, though, by the
charter, they have full jurisdiction in capital cases, they
confine themselves to the trial of petty offences, the
town-clerk acting as assessor. The magistrates have
also, by the charter, power to replevy any action whatever against an inhabitant of the burgh, from all judges
in the kingdom, upon giving security for administering
justice within the term of law. The dean of guild likewise holds a court for enforcing compliance with the
acts of parliament respecting weights and measures, in
which he is assisted by a clerk and procurator-fiscal.
Previously to the union of the two kingdoms, the burgh
sent a member to the Scottish parliament, but after that
event was associated with Montrose, Brechin, Bervie, and
Aberdeen, in returning a representative to the imperial
parliament; and the only change in this respect, under
the act of the 3rd and 4th of William IV., is the substitution of Forfar in lieu of Aberdeen, and the extension
of the elective franchise to £10 householders. The
provost is the returning officer. The guildhall is a neat
plain edifice, adapted for the business of the guild corporation; and the trades'-hall, erected in 1814, is a
handsome building. The town-house, erected in 1806,
is a spacious and elegant structure, comprising a great
hall, and offices for the town-clerk and others, with
apartments for the meeting of the council, and for holding courts. At a short distance behind the town-house,
stands the new gaol for the burgh, with the gaoler's
house, and a police-office, the whole forming a neat
building; the cells are constructed on the best modern
principles, and are well arranged for the health and
classification of the prisoners. In the court-room for
the police department, which is commodious though
small, the magistrates of the town sit regularly every
week, on Monday, for the summary disposal of petty
delinquencies.

The parish is about three miles in length, and of
very irregular form, varying from little more than 200
yards to a mile and a quarter in breadth, and comprises
820 acres of arable, and twenty-six of common land in
pasture; the surface is comparatively level, rising by a
gradual ascent from the shore, till, at the opposite extremity, it attains an elevation of 150 feet above the
sea. The only river is the Brothock, which rises in the
adjoining parish of St. Vigean's, and, after a course of
five or six miles, flows through this parish, for about a
quarter of a mile, and falls into the sea at the harbour.
A small stream which, in its course, gives motion to
several spinning-mills, forms a tributary to the Brothock; but, unless when swollen with incessant rains,
it is comparatively a shallow stream. The scenery is
pleasingly varied; and the town, as seen from the
sea, is an interesting feature, seated in the curve of a
range of small hills, which rise behind it, and command
an extensive prospect of the Lothians, the eastern portion of the coast of Fife, and the estuaries of the Forth
and Tay, towards the south; the view terminating, towards the north, in the range of the Grampian hills.
The soil, near the town, is a rich black loam; in the
higher lands, thin, resting upon a retentive clay, which
renders it scarcely susceptible of improvement; and
along the coast, light and sandy. The chief crops
are, grain of all kinds, potatoes, and turnips; guano is
used for manure, and the farms are, in general, well
arranged and skilfully managed. The rateable annual
value of the parish is £17,314. A fishery is carried on
with considerable success; cod, haddock, and flounders
are taken in abundance off the coast, with herrings and
mackerel, in their season; lobsters, crabs, and various
kinds of shell-fish, are found in great plenty, and attempts have been made to procure a supply of salmon,
by the putting down of stake-nets, but hitherto without
much success.

The parish is the seat of the presbytery of Arbroath,
within the synod of Angus and Mearns; patron, the
Crown. The minister's stipend is £219. 12. 6., with
glebe valued at £4. 8. 11.; there is also an assistant
minister, with a stipend of £75, appointed by the Kirk
Session. The church, which was enlarged in 1764, and
to which an elegant spire was added in 1831, at an
expense of £1300, raised mostly by subscription, is a
plain cruciform structure, situated nearly in the centre
of the town, and adapted for 1390 persons. A chapel
of ease was erected in 1797, on the grounds of the
ancient abbey, and is thence called the Abbey chapel;
it is a neat edifice for a congregation of about 1280, and
a quoad sacra parish has been annexed to it, comprising
a population of 2289; income of the minister, about
£100. Another chapel of ease was erected in 1829, for
the accommodation of the inhabitants of that portion of
the suburbs within the parish of St. Vigean's; it is a
neat structure, and contains 1080 sittings, from the
rents of which the minister derives an income of £150;
a district named Inverbrothock has been attached to it,
containing 5195 persons. The church of Lady-Loan is
also of recent date, and in the town. There are places
of worship for Episcopalians, Free Church congregations, members of the United Secession, members of the
Relief Synod, Original Seceders, and Independents;
and for smaller congregations of Baptists, Bereans,
Glassites, and Wesleyans. The burgh school, and also
the parochial school, have merged into an institution of
more recent establishment, called the Academy, for
which a handsome and appropriate building was erected
in 1821, at an expense of £1600, raised chiefly by subscription. This institution is under the controul of a
rector, appointed by the corporation, and three masters,
chosen by the directors; to each of these, a distinct
department is assigned, and there are consequently four
separate schools. The classical and mathematical school
is under the superintendence of the rector, whose salary
is £34 per annum, with an allowance of £6. 10. for
house-rent, which, augmented by the proceeds of a bequest by Mr. Colvill, for the gratuitous instruction of
five children, amounts to £60 per annum; and the
commercial, English, and general schools are under the
three masters, who have a salary of £25 each, exclusive
of the school fees. All these salaries are paid from the
various funds constituting the endowment of the schools.
The Sabbath-evening School Society, which has been
established for more than twenty-five years, comprehends the whole of the town and suburbs; and connected
with the schools under its superintendence, is a library
of more than 1100 volumes, containing many standard
and valuable works, in addition to such as are requisite
for the children attending them. Mr. Carmichael, in
1733, bequeathed £600, and some rent-charges, for the
benefit of seven widows of ship-masters, producing, at
present, about £130 per annum; and Mr. John Colvill,
late town-clerk, in 1811, left £10 per annum to the
minister of the Episcopal chapel, £10 per annum to the
poor of the parish, and a sum for the assistance of
twenty householders, which now produces to each
£3. 10. annually.

The chief relics of antiquity are the remains of the
abbey, which occupied an area of 1150 feet in length,
and about 700 in width, inclosed by a stone wall nearly
24 feet in height; at the north-west angle, is a tower
24 feet square, and 70 feet high, which is still entire,
and at the south-west angle was another of smaller
dimensions, which, becoming ruinous, was taken down.
The principal entrance was through a stately gateway
tower on the north side, defended by a portcullis and
draw-bridge; and at the south-east angle, was a postern
of inferior character, called the Darngate. On the
north side of the inclosure, was the abbey church, of
which only the south wall, with the east and west gables,
and a portion of the two western towers, are remaining.
The church is said to have been 270 feet in length, and
130 in breadth across the transepts; the nave, of which
the length was 148 feet, was nearly 70 feet in height,
but none of the columns that supported the roof are
standing, though their bases have been laid open during
the recent operations for restoring the ruins under the
direction of the crown. The choir appears to have been
more than 75 feet long; but little of the original character of this once proud pile can be discovered. The
western entrance is tolerably entire, and there seems
to have been a circular window above the doorway; but
the portions of the towers by which it was flanked, are
so dilapidated that scarcely any indications of their
original style of architecture remain. Adjoining the
south transept, are the remains of a building supposed to
have been the chapter-house, containing a vaulted apartment; the cloisters have disappeared, and the remains
of the abbot's palace have been converted into a private
dwelling-house. In 1815, the ruins of the abbey were
so far repaired as to secure them from absolute demolition; on the removal of the accumulated rubbish for
this purpose, the pavement of the church was partially
restored to view, and a diligent search was made, to
discover the tomb of its royal founder, who was buried
under the first step of the flight leading to the high
altar, but only the lid of an ancient stone coffin, sculptured with the figure of a man, in alto-relievo, much
mutilated, was found. Some scattered bones, indeed,
have been collected, and placed in a box, which have been
sometimes displayed as those of the king: but there is
no foundation for the opinion, and though the fact of
that monarch having been interred in the abbey, is
generally accredited, yet every search for his tomb has
been in vain. Cardinal Beaton, at that time also archbishop of St. Andrew's, was the last abbot of Aberbrothock. The place gives the inferior title of Baron to
the ducal family of Hamilton.