>Ok hey y'all, I love mah truck and all but lately she makes me wanna sell her
>to the junkyard! OK here's what happened, a few days ago I was drivin along
>just fine till she kinda sputtered and when I gave her gas she didn't
>accelerate. I kinda puttered to the side of the road and turned the ignition
>off. AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up again and was fine,
>except for the fact that my blinkers didn't work. So I guess a fuse was
>loose. Dad said he fixed it and then today I was on my way to a rodeo
>places!> and she did the same thing goin up a hill
>steering wheel kinda locked up> WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? The thing that
>bugs me most is that after a second of sittin there she'll run fine then
>outta the blue she'll embarrass me by stallin on the side of the road!

Don't worry - we all feel that way about our trucks - it's part of the joy
of owning a 20+ year old vehicle. Bad spark plug wires, loose ground, old
cap and rotor on the distributor, etc. are all good possibilities. Shortly
after getting my first truck, I had similar trouble with it stalling out on
me only to start right back up after 10 minutes of cursing it. Even did it
once about 10 minutes after I got it back from the mechanic for a tuneup to
figure out why it was stallling! Turns out my ignition module was getting
kind of flakey - replaced it with one from a spare truck my buddy had and
never had the problem again. Hmmm...got the ignition module for free but
ended up buying that truck a few years later...

Another possibility might be vapour lock in your gas line or a bad fuel
pump. I don't think the blinker problem is a cause of the stalling - maybe
just a by product of the stalling? The steering wheel locking up is the
sudden loss of power steering - a seasoned veteran of a stalling truck gets
pretty good at strong arming the truck to the side of the road. :-) As for
the embarassment, your best bet is to try not to look too helpless when
you're at the side of the road. Instead, direct anger and frustration at
the truck so you look less pathetic and more like an extremely
knowledgeable truck owner and it's only by some twisted act of God that
your truck could possible die...

>>Since you have replaced everything except the
wiring, I suggest you check the big ole wire that goes from the battery to
the solenoid, and then the big ole wire that goes from the solenoid to the
starter. Probably loose/corroded in the crimped-on lug at one of the four
ends on the two wires. Yank on 'em and see if you can pull anything
loose.

Ian,

You probably have either corroded battery terminals or more likely a bad
battery. Get a known good battery and try it. If your battery is shorted a
certain way, it won't allow you to jump the truck off. 98% of starting
problems can be resolved by replacing the battery. If you do buy a new
battery, don't scrimp. Get one with plenty of CCA and if you are four
wheeling, look for one that can withstand the abuse.

> My records show the following for FE's in trucks:
>
> 352 used from 65 thru 67
> 360 used from 68 thru 72
> 390 used from 68 thru 74
>
> I saw that someone reported that the 390 was used thru 76. Can anyone
> confirm this?
............

The 352 was used 65-67, the 360/390 was used 68-76. In 77, the 351M/400
replaced the FEs due to emissions regulations.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

You can't really tell a bad connection just by looking at it. If you have
access to a Voltmeter, you can test resistance through a connection, or
wire, by performing a voltage drop test.

1: make sure you are measuring volts
2: put one lead on one side of the connection (battery terminal)
3:put the other lead on the other side of the connection (battery cable)
4: have someone try to start the truck as you watch the meter
5:If the meter shows a reading of more than 0.5 volts ( or -0.5v --leads
reversed) the connection has too much resistance in it.

>I saw that someone reported that the 390 was used thru 76. Can anyone
>confirm this?
>
Sure Tim, how about if Tony and I each have one ? Actually he has a 360
since the 390 was not available in 4wd versions ... so the 360 should be
listed through 76 for 4x4's.

Also I was wondering if all the autos got the full time 4wd ... the way it
looks in the Red Book, it sounds almost like this is true ...

Anyone got a manual with a 203 or an auto with a 205 ?? (factory of
course) ...
Just my 2cents

John LaGrone wrote:
>
> >>You can put yourself down as a leinholder and the lean could be
> anything you want. Technical "owner" can't do anything with it until the
> lean is satified.
>
> True, Ox, this is another possibility, but lienholder makes you legally
> responsible. In Texas, the lienholder is the real owner.

Thats fine, cause that would be me, but I would not put my vehicle in
another owners name anyway.

> Now the idea of a second home in another state has some pitfalls, too. Pick
> a state that doesn't have income tax. If you claim residency for the
> purposes of registering your truck, you will probably set yourself up to
> come under their jurisdiction in other areas as well. Face it Ox, if they
> don't get us coming, they will get us going.

Yeah, I hear you, but in my case, buying land in say NC, would be a
first step to getting out of the most restrictive state against the
"automotive hobbyist". Are you saying someone with houses on both coasts
has to pay double income tax for both states?

> I don't think you can be a dual resident of two states as far as the legal
> definition goes.

I don't want to be, but "somebody" must keep a car in CO at their
trialer in the woods used for hunting that lives full time in NJ (somoen
who flys out there, but needs a car when they get there). Does that mean
once a year they have to drive that car to NJ to get it inspected, even
if it is garaged in CO. NJ insurance companies would not insure a
vehicle that is garaged in CO.

The military folks around here have to claim a "home of
> record". This exempts them from many of the local and state regulations. For
> instance a soldier from Iowa doesn't have to get his car inspected in Texas
> and can drive with an expired license for so many days, I think about 90.

But that is different. I'm talking about permananetly garaging a car
used out of state at my "other residence". Once in a while, I might
bring it to NJ to do major work to it :-) I would not be getting two
liscences.

>instrument cluster end, and I'm pretty sure my 69 speedo has a "screw on"
>dealy receptacle....
>
>Don't think the old one will work in the new transfer case since it will be
>too short....
>
>Anyone dealt with this, or maybe had a custom one made???
>
Man, haven't seen one of these in ages! Check the local autoparts store
though, they may be able to order in the screw on ones if they don't have
them in stock ... they can also get a couple different lengths too. Seems
like we ordered one in once when I was a parts monkey ...

>bolt. Then you'd use a chisel to pry the nut away from the bolt. This
>allows you to recycle the bolts. What.....you don't have a torch? No
>aresenal is complete without the poor-man's torch. A chisel and a BFH. Use
>it to "crack" the nut by striking it at a 90 degree angle to the bolt. Crude
>but very effective.
>

I have seen a set of "nut crackers" that are designed to do just that, a
bit less crude and just as effective.... they consist of a loop of steel
(cast usually) with a bolt that threads into one side ... then there is a
wedge shape that actually sits against the nut ... crank down on the bolt
and it will drive this wedge into the nut til you hear a "pop" or "crack"
or any other of a number of different sounds as the bolt cracks ... then
just unscrew it with an oversized socket, or crack the other side too and
it should fall off (may need some persuading ...)

I think we picked them up at a discount tool place, dunno if they have them
large enough for bed bolts, but I would think you could find one somewhere ...

>Thats them wish, i never looked real close, assumed they were wheels, think
>they'd have 16.5" ones ? ill have to call around, thanks fro clearing that
>up.
>

Hmmm... dunno about 16.5" ... seems like the ones we have are both 16's,
but a call will tell you for sure if you can get them or not ... good luck
gettin the hole in the front for the 4x4 version too ...

As for your starting issues, I think John is right on the nose with it, get
a known good battery and try it again ... mine was so dead one time a jump
wouldn't even turn the starter over, a new battery (975 amps:) and it
started fine ...

I have now read the rest of Sunday's digest. IMHO you need a new battery.
Everything you describe cries out open cell. I still urge you to try on off
of another truck before you go buy one, though. You said you charged your
battery. With what kind of charger? Did all six cells boil equally while
charging? If one cell didn't boil, there is your problem. BTW, disconnect
the battery from the truck while charging it. On a true discharged but
otherwise good battery, the charger should start at full charge, then
gradually drift down to a trickle. If you put the charger on and the needle
bounces on and off of zero, throw the battery away (figure of speech,
recycle it). If the charger doesn't drop down a lot after about an hour,
same advice. If your charger is trickle only, doesn't have a meter, etc. all
bets are off. A good charger runs between $40 and $100 and will pay for
itself over the years.

> Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 02:44:41 EDT
> From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!?
>
> Ok hey y'all, I love mah truck and all but lately
> she makes me wanna sell her to the junkyard!
> OK here's what happened, a few days ago I was
> drivin along just fine till she kinda sputtered and
> when I gave her gas she didn't accelerate. I kinda
> puttered to the side of the road and turned the ignition
> off. AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up
> again and was fine, except for the fact that my
> blinkers didn't work. So I guess a fuse was loose.
> Dad said he fixed it and then today I was on my way
> to a rodeo and she did the same thing
> goin up a hill
> locked up> WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? The thing
> that bugs me most is that after a second of sittin there
> she'll run fine then outta the blue she'll embarrass me
> by stallin on the side of the road!

It sounds like the culprit is the DuraSpark II ignition module.

Also, try changing the fuel filter, and check the connections
on your ignition switch for corrosion and loose contacts.

I had a similar trouble. Engine would cut out, then back on, loss of power,
flaky behavior. It would always happen after a pot hole, or bad dip, rough
road, curb check (not me, some other driver) , or some kind of bump. but not
always, and sometimes a good bump would cure it. Turns out it was a little
piece of metal in the distributor - the bounce would short out the points.
And I had swapped out the points trying to diagnose it. The caca was loose
in there, but was in the bottom and still when I was looking at it. Since
then, I always use the shop vac in the distributor, or other places where
loose caca can hide when they are open. I never did figure out how it got in
there!

Ok hey y'all, I love mah truck and all but lately she makes me wanna sell
her
to the junkyard! OK here's what happened, a few days ago I was drivin along
just fine till she kinda sputtered and when I gave her gas she didn't
accelerate. I kinda puttered to the side of the road and turned the ignition

off. AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up again and was fine,
except for the fact that my blinkers didn't work. So I guess a fuse was
loose. Dad said he fixed it and then today I was on my way to a rodeo
all
places!> and she did the same thing goin up a hill
steering wheel kinda locked up> WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? The thing that
bugs me most is that after a second of sittin there she'll run fine then
outta the blue she'll embarrass me by stallin on the side of the road!
Imagine that, my big bad Ford.....Found On Road Dead!>...GRRRR! I figure
its
gotta do something with a fuse? Any suggestions would me much appreciated! I

can't be late to another rodeo! HeHe! Thanks y'all! Oh and on a side note, I

got my CB today and I am hookin it up tomorrow so keep your ears
peeled for "Ford Filly" cuz I'm gonna be on the loose! =P

I had a simular problem last year with my '78 E-150. I'd be driving along and
the
engine would either sputter or would actually die completely. If I was still
moving
when the engine died I'd just put the van in nuetral and start it right up.

One day while sitting at a light I bumped the key in the ignition switch and it
sputtered again. After playing around a bit I discovered that I could kill the
engine
just by wiggling the key.

The next day I replaced the ignition switch and the problem went away.

> Ok hey y'all, I love mah truck and all but lately she makes me wanna sell her
> to the junkyard! OK here's what happened, a few days ago I was drivin along
> just fine till she kinda sputtered and when I gave her gas she didn't
> accelerate. I kinda puttered to the side of the road and turned the ignition
> off. AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up again and was fine,
> except for the fact that my blinkers didn't work. So I guess a fuse was
> loose. Dad said he fixed it and then today I was on my way to a rodeo
> places!> and she did the same thing goin up a hill
> steering wheel kinda locked up> WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? The thing that
> bugs me most is that after a second of sittin there she'll run fine then
> outta the blue she'll embarrass me by stallin on the side of the road!
> Imagine that, my big bad Ford.....Found On Road Dead!>...GRRRR! I figure its
> gotta do something with a fuse? Any suggestions would me much appreciated! I
> can't be late to another rodeo! HeHe! Thanks y'all! Oh and on a side note, I
> got my CB today and I am hookin it up tomorrow so keep your ears
> peeled for "Ford Filly" cuz I'm gonna be on the loose! =P
>
> *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
> *~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS~*~*
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

>You basically did what I suggested as far as wiring goes at the brake light
>switch. If I do mine, I will probably not add a new 12+ line. I am sure the
>other wire goes to the turn signal switch. I take it your turn signals still
>work. The bulbs must feed from a different 12+ wire when used as turn
>signals.

You are correct. The brake light switch is feed 12+ from the 4way flashers
fuse. When you press the brake pedal this 12+ is sent thru the brake light
switch up to the signal light switch. There if the signal light switch is
in neutral(not selected right or left) the 12+ is sent out both the right
and left rear turn signal power feed wires and both rear lights light up.
If the turn signal switch is selected right or left the 12+ from the
brakelights cant go to that particular bulb. It is all accomplished, on my
truck anyway unsure if all are the same, by a couple of platic cams and 3
"scientifically engineered" bent pieces of approx .060 single strand wire
inside the turn signal switch assembly.
I routed a new power feed because:
(a) my brake lights were not working sometimes as the bent wires werent
always touching when they were supposed to and
(b) I didnt really like the way the brakelight power was feed thru so many
junction points, the less to fail in an emergency system the better IMHO.

>Next I will tap into the wire that runs
>between the brake light switch and the turn signal switch, running it to the
>rear of the truck. There it will split to each side to feed the new bulbs.
>This setup should allow the originals to function as they are now and the
>new bulbs to perform as brake lights only.

Wont this give you 4 brakelights when the turnsignals are off and 3 when
right or left turnsignals are on? Or is this what you want? Or am I confused?

>Congratulations on your successful conversion and thanks for sharing.

Lisa,
You didn't specify what year your truck is. My one guess would be the
ignition module. I have a 79 F150 with the Duraspark system, did the same
kind of thing. Sputtered like it was lean, then quit. Five minutes later
would fire right up and drive till the module got hot again and quit. Two
options: 1) Have the module tested and replace if necessary, then keep a
bottle of water handy for when it does it again (pour water on it to cool),
or 2)Try going with a different ignition setup. I spent about 200 bucks
total and dropped in a Mallory ProComp and haven't had a problem since, even
gained a few ponies too. Good luck!

Yesterday after a fun filled day of turning wrenches and bloodying knuckles, I
removed my little smog factory out of my new truck.. What I found completely
blew my mind away. Keith and I took the valve covers off of the motor while it
was sitting on the ground, and low and behold it was a beautifully clean engine
inside, but futher inspecting the head, there were 5 valve seals that were
completely gone off of the stems, and the parts and flakes of the old rubber
were in the corner of the heads. We smile, laughed a little, and figured if I
was going to have to put new seals in it, I was gonna have to pull the head
anyway, so we did. As soon as we got the head off and turned it over to look
at the valve face, 3 out of the 8 exhaust valves have holes in them where they
have cracked and burnt though about the size of a pencil in diameter! Wonder
where my smoke was coming from? Then the story gets better-- We looked down
into the cylendar walls and found that on the #2 poston wrist pin bearing had
let loose and wore a groove about .0120 in the chamber like somebody stuck a
router bit into the side wall. Oh-- did I mention we took the timing chain
off by hand without removing the gears? All of this in a motor which still had
the orginal paint on 100% of it. My 300 4V goes in it next weekend. ;-)
And Wish-- MY MOTOR MOUNTS WERE NOT BOLTED DOWN EITHER!!!!! (GRIN)

> >I saw that someone reported that the 390 was used thru 76. Can anyone
> >confirm this?
> >
> Sure Tim, how about if Tony and I each have one ? Actually he has a 360
> since the 390 was not available in 4wd versions ... so the 360 should be
> listed through 76 for 4x4's.
>
> Also I was wondering if all the autos got the full time 4wd ... the way it
> looks in the Red Book, it sounds almost like this is true ...
>
> Anyone got a manual with a 203 or an auto with a 205 ?? (factory of
> course) ...
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
>
> Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

When I was in the service, you had to pay property tax on the vehicle in the
state and/or county you were in if the vehicle was there for more than 6 mos.
You could have out of state plates as long as you were military, but the local
tax laws applied. As far as emissions and inspections went, you were exempt
from the state and county inspections, as long as you were active military
stationed outside the state. But once returning to the state, or the vehicle is
to remain in the state for more than 30 days, you were required to get caught up
with all inspections. (Again, I'm a resident of NC and this is from that point
of view and the laws since I was in may have changed)

Also, in NC, if your drivers license expired and you could not get back to NC to
get them renewed you were exempt from getting them renewed until you returned to
the state. Then you had 30 days to get them renewed.

I don't know if this is relevant to this conversation or not but I do know that
the military and its relationships with the local and state governments are
different than the one with the everyday working dude.

I know this only because I got busted on both sides of the fence. Military and
Civilian.

The military folks around here have to claim a "home of
> record". This exempts them from many of the local and state regulations. For
> instance a soldier from Iowa doesn't have to get his car inspected in Texas
> and can drive with an expired license for so many days, I think about 90.

But that is different. I'm talking about permananetly garaging a car
used out of state at my "other residence". Once in a while, I might
bring it to NJ to do major work to it :-) I would not be getting two
liscences.

> or 2)Try going with a different ignition setup. I spent about 200 bucks
> total and dropped in a Mallory ProComp and haven't had a problem since,
even
> gained a few ponies too. Good luck!

I would recomend taking off you module, brain box, whatever you choose to
call it and take it to an auto parts store and they can test it.
They don't normally charge for that, and if it is bad, you can buy a new
one. If not, it was worth a try and was free.
-srw

Just goes to prove how hard it is to kill an FE. All those problems and was
still running!

- -Ted

HAD-- HAD a 360 Wish!!! 8-)

Yesterday after a fun filled day of turning wrenches and bloodying knuckles, I
removed my little smog factory out of my new truck.. What I found completely
blew my mind away. Keith and I took the valve covers off of the motor while it
was sitting on the ground, and low and behold it was a beautifully clean engine
inside, but futher inspecting the head, there were 5 valve seals that were
completely gone off of the stems, and the parts and flakes of the old rubber
were in the corner of the heads. We smile, laughed a little, and figured if I
was going to have to put new seals in it, I was gonna have to pull the head
anyway, so we did. As soon as we got the head off and turned it over to look
at the valve face, 3 out of the 8 exhaust valves have holes in them where they
have cracked and burnt though about the size of a pencil in diameter! Wonder
where my smoke was coming from? Then the story gets better-- We looked down
into the cylendar walls and found that on the #2 poston wrist pin bearing had
let loose and wore a groove about .0120 in the chamber like somebody stuck a
router bit into the side wall. Oh-- did I mention we took the timing chain
off by hand without removing the gears? All of this in a motor which still had
the orginal paint on 100% of it. My 300 4V goes in it next weekend. ;-)
And Wish-- MY MOTOR MOUNTS WERE NOT BOLTED DOWN EITHER!!!!! (GRIN)

A bit as expected I didn't get the truck home today,, it wouldn't start. no
power in battery. So, I guess either it is a lousy battery, can't hold the
power, or it is a place it steals current.
Will go there early in the morning to fix it.

> I have seen a set of "nut crackers" that are designed to do just that, a
> bit less crude and just as effective...
I have a small one that works on hex heads up through 3/4". The problem is
getting it into tight places and factory Bed bolts usually have a shoulder on
the nut which is also problematic. I agree that they are a great tool.

At 10:10 PM 7/1/99 -0600, you wrote:
>I am at my wit's end! I have a 70 390 in a '70 F100 that I just recently
>built. I am running an Edelbrock performer 600cfm carb and a Crane #343901
>cam with a lift of 501 on the intake, 533 on the exhaust and about a 260
>advertised duration. The distributor is brand new and has been calibrated
>for about a 32 degree total advance. I have it plugged into the timed
>vacuum port, as I am told I should.

You mean, the static advance (w/o vacuum and at idle) is 32 degrees? That's
a lot! Try half that..

>The Problem: I seem to have way too much advance at partial throttle
>settings (when the vacuum is highest) and I get a miss. In order to get rid
>of the miss I have to retard the timing so much that the truck will barely

Did you try screwing the idle mixture screws out a little? I always notice
with my engine that the idler jets give plenty gas at idle but then at 800
rpm it starts dropping and only at 1500 or so the main jets really start
working. Inbetween that, e.g. while driving around town at 20 mph, it runs
kind of lean.

>The Questions: Is my carb or cam causing a stronger vacuum than a stock?
>How can I limit my vacuum advance? Is this a common problem?

If your engine is tuned really well, you get more vacuum, yes. So you are
using ported vacuum now? That should not be strong at all at idle.

>money pit. So went to clean things - 4 pushrods are trashed, three bent,
one
>with both ends chipped gone. WHAT NEXT!? When I'm done, new rearend,
>springs, gas tank, all unscheduled; then a new frontend, again unscheduled;
>next came a new tranny, unscheduled; new motor/radiator/brake
system/charging
>system/starter/battery, unscheduled; all in last 7 months of the year I've

Welcome to the world of old trucks :) I know what you are talking about.
Fortunately the previous owner of my truck just put a new engine and
transmission in so that all works fine. Transfer case too. Lets see what
else did you have .. rearend: yup, I bent an axle which trashed a bearing,
just got my new one in yesterday. springs are still on my list, especially
when my 33 gal gas tank is full the rearend sits 4" lower than the front.
My gas tank was also done by the previous owner. Got a new front end too, I
got water in the bearings, started squealing. Thank god I checked it out
before it failed! Just bearings though, the diff was still fine. Radiator..
yup, it's been in there for almost two weeks now. Also installed the
biggest transmission cooler I could find. New brake system.. not quite, I
still got the original pedal :) Charging system, yup.. battery, yup, the
one that was in there originally was cracked and only had 10 volts..
amazing the truck was starting at all! Starter is still hanging in there.

>and call a freind of mine to tow me home. When we got to my house I put it
>in gear to try to put it in the driveway and it went in like there was no
>problem. I smelled the fluid and it does not smell burnt and it looks good

Good.

>also. I wonder if I have the tranny to full of fluid or if the fluid
>overheated or both. Could someone please tell me where the fluid should read
>on the dipstick when it is cold and when it is hot? and should it read lower

Transmissions are a pain to measure, because the hydraulic system fills and
empties cylinders with fluid. What you have to do is drive it around for
awhile so it gets to heat up and has been through all the gears. Then park
on a level surface and put it in park, leave the engine running so the oil
does not flow back into the pan. Then check the fluid. You will probably
have to check and wipe off the stick a couple of times before you can see
the level.

>when cold and higher when hot? my last question is, I currently have type F
>fluid in it, but my dad had a 77 with a C-6 and he said that I should use
>Dexron. If you guys and gals could help me out it would be greatly

Correct, C6 needs dexronII or better (I have pennzoil dexron III). But I
believe the early ones did use type F so you should consult some
documentation on that one.

If you do need dexron: You should drain what you have now, take the pan
off, replace filter etc. Don't forget to drain your torque converter too,
it holds some 6-7 quarts of fluid. I did this awhile ago, you will have to
remove the little plate to expose the flexplate. You will probably see the
connecting bolts. There is a drain plug also, but you probably have to
rotate the engine to get to it. On mine it was there when the harmonic
balancer was at 14 BTDC, so you can start with turning it there. Anyway if
you're not certain how to do it, let me know and I can write detailed
instructions, like I said I did it just two weeks ago.

Bas.

>appreciated as I dont want to have to rebuild this transmission unless I
>have to.
>
>
>Thank You in advance for all of your help. I really love all the great
>information from this site.
>
>Thank You,
>Jason
>.
>
>
>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

>>it is that has "D2TEAA" stamped on the heads, a transplanted C-6, nearly
>>original interior, 75K original miles, very little rust, only a couple
>
>Maybe I'm ignorant, but.. with a transplanted transmission, can you still
>consider the 75k -original- miles? I read this term quite often in
>advertisements, but never knew exactly what it means.
>
Well if they don't list everything as having been replaced its usually
assumed to be on the rest of the car and mean the odometer hasnt been
rolled back.

For instance, Mom's car has 76,000 (just guessng, I know its over 72 and
under 85) original miles on the 69 Stang she bought new ... valve covers
have never been off the motor, but the tranny has been out because it
needed a clutch replaced ... we didnt' rebuild the tranny but if we had, it
would still have 76,xxx original miles, but the tranny would have been
rebuilt at 6x,xxx ... mileage is still original for the car, its just not
on the tranny...

My car on the other hand shows 13,5xx on a 96, but its not original
because the original odometer crapped out at 34,000 and I swapped in a
gauge pod with 12,xxx on it ...

Anyway I hope this helps clear things up ... though I doubt it did ...

>>second: No, do not drive on hard, non slip surface with a NP205 in 4Wd, it
>>will cause tremendous bind in the drive line, and something will
>>give......u-joint, drive shaft tube, pinion shaft, etc etc.
>
>Well.. I've done 50-60mph on dry blacktop in part time 4wd and nothing
>gave. But yeah, you'll use up tires and gas real fast.
>
well ya, going in a straight line, at 50, 60 or even a 100 mph is not the
problem, it's the turning that will cause the problems, but hey it's your
truck. :-)
Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
Bronco 78 in the BB chat room

>
>AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up again and was fine,
>except for the fact that my blinkers didn't work. So I guess a fuse was
>loose. Dad said he fixed it and then today I was on my way to a rodeo
>places!> and she did the same thing goin up a hill
>steering wheel kinda locked up> WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? The thing that
>bugs me most is that after a second of sittin there she'll run fine then
>outta the blue she'll embarrass me by stallin on the side of the road!
>
>
>*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
>*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS~*~*

Lisa,
try checking your plug wires or spark plugs. If these are worn,
what can happen is that they create too much resistance for the
electronic(i assume that is what you have) ignition system. The unit tries
to continue supplying the spark and overheats causing thermal shutdown.
Just resting for a little while will allow the unit to cool down enough to
continue working. I had this problem for months and it drove me nuts,
because I'm used to points and condensor systems(God Bless Them) and this
is not classic bad ignition behavior. It turned out to be the plug wires on
mine. 3 mechanics could not figure it out. The new wires were less than all
the estimates that were bogus.

I was under the empression that if one did a body off frame restoration you
could say the truck / car had 0 miles on it and turn the odometer back to 0.
Is this right or wrong ?
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Ok hey y'all, I love mah truck and all but lately she makes me wanna sell
her
to the junkyard! OK here's what happened, a few days ago I was drivin along
just fine till she kinda sputtered and when I gave her gas she didn't
accelerate. I kinda puttered to the side of the road and turned the ignition

off. AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up again and was fine,

====

Replace your fuel filter. Mine was plugged once and did this same thing.
What happens is while driving the filter restricts flow and allows the
engine to drain the fuel bowl in the carb. The fuel pump is full and uses a
rubber diaprham to hold steady pressure on the carb's needle and seat (like
a full water balloon). When the engine stalls the fuel pump is full and has
pressure so it pushes fuel through the filter even though the engine is off.
As soon as the fuel bowl has enough gas the engine will start and run fine.
BTW I did an autopsy (sp?) on the bad filter and couldn't see anything
plugging it.

Don't get discouraged. Every problem you solve will give you more
confidence in your ability to keep her running. They also are what give our
trucks character (or is that makes them characters?).

Hello to all. I am a long time member who has been away from the digest
for a while due to job transfer. I have a 1967 F100 longbed fully
restored. I spent the better part of two years getting it completely
restored. I had the truck at the 98 supernats but didn't make this
years due to the job. Anyway, when I restored the truck, I had the 352
rebuilt and bored 30 over, add 4 bbl, converted to C-6 trans, added
power steering and A/C. Last major change will be disc brakes for front.

My latest problem seems to be the rear end. Its seems according to the
guy who built my trans is that the rear is worn. I want to fix it but I
also want to regear. I believe the rear end is a 3.5 but could be
3.25. One thing for sure when doing just over 70 I am pushing 3000rpm.
I need to reduce the wear on the engine and hopefully improve fuel
economy.

I was told to consider 2.7 or 2.9 rear end.. I do not pull anything with
this truck and as of now do not plan on it. However, I know there will
always be a first time. I have found a guy here in Louisville Ky who
will do the work for approx 300.00 including parts.

I have a newly rebuilt 460. All parts are for a '78. The rebuilt engine ran
fine for approx. 25 miles, then started idling rough. On inspection, I
noticed that when I plugged the vacuum line to my distributor's vacuum
advance module... to set the timing again, No. 1 terminal did not transfer
a single spark to the wire. If I reconnect the vacuum line, NO 1 terminal
fired rapidly ( as indicated by a timing light) This was a repeatable
symptom. This was not the case in the initial timing accomplished;
especially since one must have the vacuum line plugged for the timing
procedure.
Apparently, the vacuum is pulling the electronic pickup to a point where it
is no where near the firing position to impart a charge on terminal #1. What
is wrong?

I cranked the engine to TDC on the compression stroke. Then cranked it to 12
degees BTDC, opened the dist. cap and adjusted the distributor so that on of
the stator legs (1 of 8) was inline with the pickup. It is my understanding
that this is a correct procedure that will ensure that with little vacuum,
the engine will be firing at 12 degrees BTDC. AM I wrong?

ok, i've already used another battery from my dad's van and it still won't
work, the batt cables are relitively new, im replacing them and the
solenoid/starter cable tomorrow, and im getting the new starter checked again
because when i took a set of jumper cables and hooked up to the battery when
both were out of the truck it did not spin/spark/anything, (that was a
friends suggestion and a mechanics, since they both suggested it i figured
what the heck) as to the charging issue, my charger has a meter, and a
trickle, it charges it then slowly goes to a trickle charge, and it was
completely out of the trcuk when i charged it, soooooo, if all else fails im
giving up and getting a mechanic,

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