Cheap Eats 2011: TarBoush Lebanese Bistro & Bar

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Want to get a measure of a Lebanese restaurant? Order its veggie mezza
($12). The traditional assortment of hummus, baba ghanouj, falafel,
grape leaves and tabbouleh is as good a metric as any in determining a
kitchen’s acumen. TarBoush’s accompanying pita bread, which comes out of
the kitchen hot and appropriately puffed, ably serves as a vessel for
the spreads, but lacks the slight yeasty tang of the best examples of
this staple. The tabbouleh is great with everything—an unusually high
parsley-to-bulgur ratio gives the salad a bright, astringent quality
with a subtle nuttiness. Nice and crispy, the falafel is at its best
when you assemble an ad-hoc sandwich with the other mezza
accompaniments. Over on the hot side of the menu, The grilled chicken
($14) is tender and succulent, with a lovely garlicky finish, and the
kafta kebab ($14) is easily one of the best versions in town,
substantial and filling while still moist.