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Everything posted by Tidbit96

(System: Orion Cobalt 3500.1 w/ Soundqubed HDS 15" 1200RMS Sub & Stinger 80Amp isolator)
Hey y'all, I ain't been on for bit cuz 99% of my system build/install's done, just few small tweaks, but bout to be all finished after installing 2nd batt. & Isolator to hopefully help some dimming & other small electrical anomalies...but, I found myself unfortunately participating in a YouTube comment section debate & began to 2nd guess my choice of isolator size. A YouTuber said his 40Amp isolator did great w/his 2000W amp set up, when a "keyboard cowboy"/YouTube troll stated, "this is impossible cuz watts come from volts x amps & 12x40 is 480 not 2000" I already knew of this "formula" So to speak, but Isn't this idiot just using the wrong Amp # in his calculation? Like my amp has 3 x 40amp fuses equaling 120 & also, don't most charging systems run couple volts over 12 when running? Mine stays between 13.7 - 13.9 til'I crank on the window rattler and start bumping lol... so my ? is, I have a stinger 80Amp isolator for my 2ndary batt. Will this be sufficient for my setup? This fool suddenly caused me to worry this wouldn't be enough to keep my 2ndary batt. Charged enough to correctly power my setup? Can anyone give me there opinions on this? I'd greatly appreciate any advice.
Since Im already writing this I may as well ask 1 more ? For my peace of mind. Regarding the 2nd batt. & Isolator install so I know I'm doing it right. I currently use a BASS ROCKER fuse box w/200Amp ANL fuse...So I leave this where it is but run THAT length of PWR to the isolator right, then do I need to fuse the 2nd run of PWR wire going to the 2ndary batt. too? & Then surely I'd need to fuse the 3rd run of wire since IT will then be the final run of PWR going to my Amp correct? Now if this is correct I'll need 2 more fuses/boxes which I have but the extras I have are the cheap round fuse boxes w/100Amp "ANS?" fuses. Are these fuses going to be sufficient for my setup? Is there a better order to put them, like I said the box I'm using is a 200Amp ANL fuse. I thought it might be better if I use it in my last run from 2ndary batt. to Amplifier... & the other 2 x 100Amp fuses in the latter runs...any thoughts? Any advice Id greatly appreciate, fellow bass lovers! Thanks again for all the help Ive received from every SSA forum member during my system build & install....This has always been my favorite audio forum when I need quick, good, & correct solutions to any of my audio issues so thanks everyone & Bump on SSA!

Damn thanks for that man lol the messed up part is that I already knew this but I ordered my Bassrocker from Amazon when it was on a major sale so when I received it, like an anxious kid on Christmas Eve I had to IMMEDIATELY go install it to see how it looks & if it'll fit where I'd planned putting it & quite honestly just totally over looked that part... Wasn't even aware of the Fuse size til'shortly after installing it & taking 1 last look at it... I appreciate your advice & for reminding me of something I once had known... I'll have to order a smaller 100Amp ANL fuse for it or something....1 more quick question for you tho...since my amplifier has a total of 120Amperes worth of fuses in it.... does that mean the 100Amp fuse won't be large enough or will 100Amp fuses be sufficient for my setup? Thanks again for that kick in the ass wake up I was apparently in need of lol much appreciated

Is there a better option? I've always been of the belief that this was, if anything, at the very least, the safest configuration to use when setting up a system that includes a 2ndary battery for it's power source... Am I miss informed? Do you know of a better option? I don't know if I mentioned y Im putting one in, but it's in hopes of fixing some major headlight dimming I'm experiencing at night....is there a different option I could use that might be cheaper or quicker, or easier? Oh & to completely answer your question, I was told that using this isolator will give me the piece of mind that the main engine batt. Will never accidentally be drained for any reason, accident or what so ever....? Do you think I'm missing a better option I could utilize in order to attend to this problem? Thanks for any feedback

I have always been told that a fairly good way of judging the output of an Amp just off 1st glance is to take the total amount of all the fuses & multiplying this by 10 will give you a rough estimate of the RMS output of said Amp? Is this a true statement by chance or have I been misled in some way? I ask because recently I had an Orion Cobalt CB2500.1D pushing my 1200RMS 15" Soundqubed sub but after roughly a yr it shot craps on me, stopped sounding good & after 10 or 15 minutes it would start kicking in & out of protection mode...I looked around for a new replacement but after seeing what the market had to offer me at my budget price I ended up getting another Cobalt I just jumped up to the 3500.1D which obviously would have a higher RMS rating. The pictures of the 3500.1 showed it having 4x40amp fuses which would be 160x10= 1600RMS which is what my 3500.1 is rated at according to the specs. But after receiving my 3500.1 I found it only has 3x40amp fuses which is only 120 which my 2500.1 had 4x30amp fuses which is ALSO 120?! I made sure I got the right Amp immediately & of course it is the 3500.1.... so can anyone help me out with this? Does this mean I basically got the same 2500.1 just the logos on the Amp are phony? Or have I just been mistaken by the quick solvable math equation I've been using all this time to get a rough estimate of output? I'm including pictures of the differences of each amp too so you can see what I mean also notice how much larger the 2500.1 is then the 3500.1 & they aren't more than 1 to 1&1/2 years difference between there manufactured dates.... thanks for any input or info y'all can help me out with!

I have always been told that a fairly good way of judging the output of an Amp just off 1st glance is to take the total amount of all the fuses & multiplying this by 10 will give you a rough estimate of the RMS output of said Amp? Is this a true statement by chance or have I been misled in some way? I ask because recently I had an Orion Cobalt CB2500.1D pushing my 1200RMS 15" Soundqubed sub but after roughly a yr it shot craps on me, stopped sounding good & after 10 or 15 minutes it would start kicking in & out of protection mode...I looked around for a new replacement but after seeing what the market had to offer me at my budget price I ended up getting another Cobalt I just jumped up to the 3500.1D which obviously would have a higher RMS rating. The pictures of the 3500.1 showed it having 4x40amp fuses which would be 160x10= 1600RMS which is what my 3500.1 is rated at according to the specs. But after receiving my 3500.1 I found it only has 3x40amp fuses which is only 120 which my 2500.1 had 4x30amp fuses which is ALSO 120?! I made sure I got the right Amp immediately & of course it is the 3500.1.... so can anyone help me out with this? Does this mean I basically got the same 2500.1 just the logos on the Amp are phony? Or have I just been mistaken by the quick solvable math equation I've been using all this time to get a rough estimate of output? I'm including pictures of the differences of each amp too so you can see what I mean also notice how much larger the 2500.1 is then the 3500.1 & they aren't more than 1 to 1&1/2 years difference between there manufactured dates.... thanks for any input or info y'all can help me out with!

Yeah sry my phone kept messing up & wouldn't let me add any I tried like heck but it just kept messing up! But thanks for the reply... but in regards to these Amps, as I mentioned both the 2500.1D and my new 3500.1D have the same 120amp total? So am I right in saying that this means there both basically the same wattage producing amplifiers? Regardless of the fact one is a 2500.1D & the other is a 3500.1D & regardless of the fact that manufacturers spec's say one is rated 1250RMS@1OHM & The other is rated 1650RMD@1OHM? or are there other factors involved that might make these differences in manufacturers spec's actually possible &/or True specs?

Sry guys my phone keeps Fu¢|<in up so I accidentally posted this twice while trying to add my pictures but apparently I am too stupid to figure out how to add pictures lol but for an example I measured the 2 amps & the width is the same but the 2500.1 is nearly 2" longer & feels significantly heavier than the 3500.1.... but I just wanted to let you know why I posted twice & that it's the same reason I was unable to add the pics I mentioned. Thanks again for any input on this shitty situation I've found myself in again

Thanks for the suggestion.... I've double & triple checked my wiring & I can't see that anything is wrong.... like I said I've had it for 8 or 9 months & it worked decently the entire time until one day it just started doing this..... another forum member told me that he owned an Orion Amp once that did literally the exact same thing mine just started to do & he ended up having to have it repaired professionally..... so I'm hoping it's just the same situation as he had because, although I'm not a professional installation man, I've installed well over a couple dozen systems & I understand how everything works for the most part, I've nvr had any issues like this before at least.... If you have any ideas or opinions on something that I may have missed or did wrong, I'm open to any suggestions &/or opinions.... Thanks for your reply though

Recently my Orion Amp I had, pushin a Soundqubed HDS3.1-15" rated 1200RMS, crapped out! I'm lookin for replacement that's affordable & CAPABLE of rated 1200RMS needed to really experience my Soundqubed.
I paid $125 for my Orion 2500.1D & it was rated 1200RMS @1ohm but I doubt it ever made that. I thought 1200RMS for $125 seemed too good to be true. I know I'm not goin back that route, so I'm curious of opinions on Amps under the $200 mark that I can afford & hopefully won't crap out after 9mons like my Orion & hopefully produce 1200RMS. I have a few options/manufacturers that I'm looking at that I'll list, plz give any opinions you have bout these Amps/Manufacturers I list, also plz feel free to make suggestions of possible choices that aren't listed it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Amps/manufacturers currently debating on:
*Precision Power PPI Ice 2600.1
*Skar RP 1200.1D/1500.1D
*Audiopipe APMI mini D 1500w/2000w
*Hifonics Zeus series 1216.1/1816.1D &/or Brutus series 1516.1D
*American Bass Ph1600md &/or VFLHYBRID2800.1D
These are just some of the few manufacturers I've looked at due to there reasonable prices, high enough rating for my needs, & good ratings on Amazon Prime. However, 80%-90% of the comments/reviews written on Amazon appear to be written by ppl who all seem to be EXTREMELY ignorant in regards to audio installation so I don't really trust those ratings so any input from anyone who knows what they're talking about like most everyone in here does Id appreciate greatly! Thanks for any help.

Right on thanks I'll check it out, you know the RMS rating of this Amp by chance? & What, if you don't mind me asking, do you have your US Acoustics amp pushing? Does it handle it pretty easily? Does it get very hot when you're pushing it pretty tough? & Does this Amp by chance have a clipping warning light like the Soundqubed Amps have? I appreciate your input very much! Will definitely check it out!

This is the video I took in order to help show what my exact problem is I'm dealing w/ currently....if ANYONE has seen this type of behavior in any Amps OR ESPECIALLY if anyone's had an Orion that acted up like this I'd be very great full for any help or suggestions.. thank you! Much appreciated!
YouCut_20181013_000700427.mp4

Lol, thanks for the reply man, I was under the same assumption as that myself but surely you know how the YouTube comment section is, its over run w/ rocket scientists & ppl w/ MULTIPLE engineering degrees just cruising the videos dying to tell others how smart they are & how dumb the rest of us are... I'm assuming this is where that myth originated since it's where I first heard it, TWICE if you can believe it lol.... Well thanks for the information regarding my issue man! This forums been a Big big help compared to the YouTube comment section lol.

Hey man, Thanks for reply, I was affraid that was the issue.... I have 1 more ? for ya, soon I plan 2buy a matchin Soundqubed Amp to push it & monitor the clipping, til' then I have an extra cheap $100 Walmart bought Power Acoustics Razor Amp... of course it won't produce anywhere near the 1200 RMS that my HDS is rated, but do you know is it harmful to run it on insufficient power like that even if it's for just a short amount of time? I'll be able to get my Soundqubed Amp in 2-3 weeks so it would be just a short time...but some1 once told me runnin insufficient power to a sub can cause issues w/ Subwoofer so if this is true I'll just tough it out w/o bass for next few weeks....thought I'd ask if you had any idea if this is true or not. Thanks again though man for the reply I really appreciate it!

(reference: system is HDS.1 15" Soundqubed 1200RMS w/Orion Cobalt 2500.1D Amp in a 2003 Lincoln TC) Recently I posted bout headlight dimming, weather Big3 or capacitor may solve issue & got many great responses... The best bein bout batteries & the different types, however Im currently livin off expired bread & occasionally sharing dog food w/my neighbors dog that he gets LMAO it's not that bad but suffice it to say I can't afford a new battery that would probably solve the problem, but since I had extra 4ga. OFC from my last 2 installs, I did the big3 upgrade anyway, however didn't notice much difference.
Since this upgrade, roughly 2 weeks ago I've encountered a much more troubling issue. The other night I was bumpin at regular volume not too high, suddenly my sub kicks off, & amp goes to protection mode?!...(I experienced a similar situation shortly after my initial audio system install, after HRS of investigating, discovered the problem was in the enclosure I built Id used the common 3" Gold spring loaded double post speaker box terminal cup...the quality of the posts along w/paper thin male connecters on the inside weren't heavy duty enough to handle the 1200RMS that I was trying to feed it & the lock washers & nuts that secured the posts continually failed to stay tight but any tighter would strip the threads. I removed terminal & ran 10ga. directly to the speaker terminals & the last 5 months since the change I've had no issues other than the headlight dimming, hence the big3 upgrade attempt to fix it. However, since upgrade I've listened to it approx. 5-7 times. Now, just over a week since the big3 upgrade.... I can't help but think I did something wrong w/the upgrade especially since I practically uninstalled my entire audio system in attempt to find an issue that might fix the problem. But I've double, triple, (by now) probably even quadruple checked EVERYSINGLE connection & run of wire in my system & still same issue, I turn my car on, occasionally it goes straight to protection before a single beat hits, but the majority of the time it'll come on at least long enough to get a few lines into the first song, then click it's in protection mode just as fast as it came on.....
If anyone has ANY clue as to what the hell is causing this PLZ don't hold back any ideas or suggestions cuz I'm going nuts with 2 stock 6.5's & 6x9's as my only Audio in my car.... I apologise for the length of this post I'm just really frustrated & thought I'd better include all current & past issues, whatever may possibly help any1 arrive at a solution. cuz my broke ass is clueless, but desperate & extremely driven to solve & fix this problem. Thank you for any & all suggestions!

So, just so I know I heard everything right, your saying Adire Audio are coming back to the game finally? But did I also read correct, its not the same owner but someone who acquired the company after purchasing it from the original owner?!? Well aslong as they're reopening, cuz this would be a dream come true 4me!! I F*ING LOOOVED every adire audio product I ever purchased! In highschool, my junior yr, a friend & I built 2 systems,(both were our 1st systems we ever owned) 1 for my truck & 1 for his, He had 2 12"shivas on just a wimpy little sony explode 1200 I believe, & I put a single 15" Tempest paired w/ a Rockford punch 900 monoblock., Although my friend would never admit it, my tempest was obviously the victor of the 2 systems....paired w/ that punch 900 WOW, no joke that single $150.00 Beast of a Budget Tempest woofer would straight rattle street lights when we'd cruise main street after Friday night football games....we had friends w/ insanely expensive top shelf systems from JL, Alpine, Kicker etc.... & no joke, there was no reason to even compete with any of those systems, you could tell from a block away that there were always 2 systems that stood night and day above the rest! I hate sounding like 1 of those cocky shits that thinks everything they own is the best but I swear im not, but anyone who knows anything about adire audio or who have ever owned any of there products should already know that's not me bragging it was just simple fact....Adire was light years ahead of the competition back in those days, atleast in my honest opinion there wasn't a manufacture that existed in those days, (99'-03') that could go toe to toe with adires woofers in regards to the Output, SQ, combined with nearly thrift store like prices on their products, sure there were better subs I suppose but your wallet better be thick as shit, infact youd most likely need a man purse to purchase quality like those guys anywhere else!!!!
Dang sorry for the rattling on & on there but if this news is correct I'm freakin Pumped! If it is, however, a different owner I just hope they can continue the Adire Audio Legacy by manufacturing products that embarrass every other manufacturer & that the most embarrassing part about it all is when you look at the price tag & wonder if you stumbled into a GOODWILL store by accident somehow lol! LONG LIVE ADIRE AUDIO!!! PLZ DON'T LET THIS BE FAKE NEWS! LOL You'll once again have a life long customer here the moment the 1st shiva, tempest, or better yet Brahma, hit the shelf! Best of Luck!

Really? I was bout at my last option which was, it HAS to be the Amp.... It was kinda in the back of my mind the whole time, the behavior just didn't resemble loose wire/connections...at 1st it seemed like the logical explanation from the way it 1st behaved...but I've now pulled out my sub 3 times rewiring it more securely every time & checked every other connection short of completely dismantling the entire system & starting over....my opinion began 2change quickly after the first time I rewired my sub & wires from box to Amp & turned it back on, it thumped so/so for 10-15 minutes, not as well as it did when first installed it, so I wasn't surprised when, not long after turning it on, it cut back out, only this time I could hear it lightly popping from my trunk so I left it on & popped the trunk to look at the Orion while it was still on & found it flashing from red(protection) back to blue in almost a rhythm or a constant beat like sound which would cause my sub to make a popping sound from the quick power surges in & out..... so I was pretty much at the same conclusion as what you mentioned.... does that resemble, at all, the behavior of your Orion by chance? I really appreciate the response though man, as much as it sux, the same time it's a relief to finally hear that I am not the 1st person who has experienced this with an Orion Amp. If you get a chance can you shoot me 1 more msg & let me know if this resembles your incident, much appreciated Brotha man! Big big help!

i have a 2003 LincolTC, my system is a Soundqubed HDS315-D2 1200RMS powered by an Orion cobalt 2500.1D 1ohm stable amp, which is what i have it wired to. Ive only got 4ga 100% OFC, not that cheap oxidizing CCA junk, ran as power & ground which Im sure you'll all say thats too low ga. of wire which i already know & agree on that fact, just my financial circumstances are unable to afford me the luxuries of a larger ga considering I already owned the 4ga wire i used lol & considering the 15'+ of 0/1 or 0/2 ga OFC i would need for the length of my boat of a car i am just going to stick it out w/ what i got for now cuz i wont run that cheap cca crap.
so anyways my current issue im having is when the heavy bass hits my headlights & even dash lights will dim.... sometimes worse than others, obviously depending on the song & how heavy of bass it produces..... ive read up quite a bit on the big 3 upgrade & have plenty of extra 4ga OFC left to use if i decided to go that way however i dont know a terrible amount about capacitors. obviously i know enough to understand what they do & realize one would probably be a solution to my problem, however i do chat on quite a few different forums & have heard mixed opinions on the subject of capacitors. so i figured since SSA is where i ordered my sub from i may be smart to ask a few opinions on their forum, hence our arrival to this point lol. in, whoever replies to this post, opinions, which of these 2 possible solutions do you believe would be my best choice? or do any of you maybe have any other ideas or possible solutions? (CHEAP) lol keep in mind my financial situation is just a few dollars above trading food stamps for spare speaker wire on the streets lol ok its not that bad but just wanted you to remember all the variables of the problem on a way to the solution. lol i have looked at capacitors & figured i can probably splurge to the point of $80-$100 tops on a so so reputable brand of capacitor if thats believed to be my best choice.
well i hope ive included all the right info and variables in order for a few good opinions on possible routes to go down in my attempt to solve this current annoyance i have been dealing with. if anyone has any questions for me regarding my setup or incase i maybe left some crucial needed info out, plz feel free to enlighten my novice butt lol id be more then happy to give whatever else info is needed if your willing to help me make up my indecisive mind on what to do lol. very much appreciated everyone!

hey thanks for all the advice guys...
I do have a couple questions if yall dont mind helpin me out with,1st- to J-ROADS... what did you mean when you said higher CCA primarily battery? i dont have ANY experience with adding extra aftermarket batteries.... so is that a type of bateriy or did you mean a higher ga wire when you said CCA? & then the primary battery might work? cause if so, i was debating on that moving to 2 or 0 ga but only OFC though, thats all ill run, CCA isnt worth running power to my conmputer speakers in my opinion..... but as for adding an extra aftermarket battery, as i mentioned i have no experience with adding extra batteries...obviously they will need a power charging supply as well right? so does that mean I would need to replace my stock alternator with a more powerful one or is it possible to power both batteries with my stock alternator? & in the event I go that direction of adding an extra battery do I hook it up basically the same way as the stock battery, just using its own set of power & ground wire run to it from the alternator & grounded to the chassis? or is there any special directions for hooking up a secondary battery? if so I could really use the advice if yall have time to school a fellow audio lover... currently id say im a skilled novice at best when it comes to aftermarket audio & audio accessorizing but am always eager to learn more.
thanks again for the advice fellas its greatly appreciated. I cant tell ya how happy I am I didnt idiotically waste my money on a capacitor, I nearly did a couple times now but something in my gut said ask someone/anyone who might know more bout this area before taking a chance on something i know basicaly nothing about! so thanks again for the advice & the heads up on how useless caps. are!

no kidding? I checked all my wiring & double checked my connections & as far as it looks, everything is connected straight.... so you think that it could seriously be just my gain being turned up too high? That's the 1st I've ever heard of this as a possible solution? Crazy, I guess that's where the saying, "learn something new every day" comes into play lol. I had never really heard gain adjustment being a possible issue for anything more then clipping issues until now.
It would make sense though if that is what is causing the issue cuz this Soundqubed HDS 15" is rated to handle 1200RMS &, although this Orion 2500.1D Amp is said to be able to produce I believe 1250 RMS @1 ohm which is what i have it wired to, I have watched youtube videos on this amp that say its closer to 850-900 RMS @1ohm. I did a rough attempt of my own clamp test & at my most accurate attempt it seemed to be roughly between 750 & the 850 the youtube video suggested. So my solution at getting everything i could to the sub was by cranking the gain....
well tomorrow evening ill give adjusting my gain a shot & see if this changes the light dimming issue. & if so i guess i better start saving a couple hundo more bucks and upgrade to the soundqubed 1200.1 monoblock amp that appears to be more than capable of producing my desired RMS & hopefully then lll get the correct sound & performance along w/ steady supply of headlight output lol.
thanks for the advice....if that does not correct it, however, you'll deffinatley be seeing another post of me crying about my terrible issues I just cant seem to ever fix lol but most likely your exactly right, much appreciated!