I have a 335 with Cobb stage 2+ aggressive. I sometimes have cyl 2 misfire issue at WOT so I suspect its the cyl 2 faulty ignition coil. Im thinking if I should just replace the faulty coil or replacing all the coils at once as I heard once a coil fails, the other coils will fail soon. I have 68k miiles on my car and replaced spark plugs once at 43k and done walnut blasting at 67k. How long do the ignition coils last on a 335?

Until they fail. Sorry, but why would you replace them if they aren't failing? Have you swapped coils to see if the fail follows the coil pack? If not you could be wasting your time.

Some owners like to do preventative maintenance

I know i'll be wasting my time and money swapping all new coils and plugs in a couple thousand miles even though I don't "have" to.

Also, if some of you have time, go check out the Cobb site under the BMW Accessports, there is a fix for the Misfire videos, with a good installation video of the coil packs and the plugs. Makes it very easy.

I know i'll be wasting my time and money swapping all new coils and plugs in a couple thousand miles even though I don't "have" to.

Also, if some of you have time, go check out the Cobb site under the BMW Accessports, there is a fix for the Misfire videos, with a good installation video of the coil packs and the plugs. Makes it very easy.

Thanks!

Any idea on how tight to torque down the plugs? Or is that in the video?

But if you don't want to waste some time watching it, Cobb says 17 lb-ft.

Thank you so much!!!!

Although the guy in the first minute of the video looks/sounds pretty....gay BUT, he does a good job. This video really makes me wish i went with the COBB AP over the Rev2.5.... The AP looks so easy to use and clean to install/uninstall...

Although the guy in the first minute of the video looks/sounds pretty....gay BUT, he does a good job. This video really makes me wish i went with the COBB AP over the Rev2.5.... The AP looks so easy to use and clean to install/uninstall...

I was in a similar dilemma when I was choosing what software to use... and with total familiarity of the AP (previous car was 05 Subaru STi) and just the pure ease of them... it was a no brainer of what to go with. I was debating on the JB4... but I think i'll keep it safe with the Accessport.

I was in a similar dilemma when I was choosing what software to use... and with total familiarity of the AP (previous car was 05 Subaru STi) and just the pure ease of them... it was a no brainer of what to go with. I was debating on the JB4... but I think i'll keep it safe with the Accessport.

Wish i was within the 30-day period I love Shiv and his work, but im not loving the software, plus my laptop sucks.. at the end of the day, both work.

You could take a look at all of them, and whichever seems the most worn down, replace it (or as many as you want). Or you could do what i am doing, and keeping a replacement in the garage for when misfires start.

15 days for PROcede. But you have one of the best tunes on the market aside from the COBB. Once you dig through the PROcede and really start to play with some of the settings, you can really amp things up quickly. Boost control is by far the best. Then, once you get bored and you have run out of options, go buy the COBB. It's that or PROcede Flash. You'll need to manage trims somehow. Otherwise you'll get to a point where you are always maxing your trims. Trust me, I've been there and coding when you're smoking your neighbors M6 is not funny.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric335

Wish i was within the 30-day period I love Shiv and his work, but im not loving the software, plus my laptop sucks.. at the end of the day, both work.

It's your plugs. Get new ones. With mods you should be replacing them every 15k miles (or less). I had the same problem when I installed my Cobb, it runs richer, more boost, and less timing than a JB4 or Proceed and so it makes bad/old plugs show themselves more easily.

It's your plugs. Get new ones. With mods you should be replacing them every 15k miles (or less). I had the same problem when I installed my Cobb, it runs richer, more boost, and less timing than a JB4 or Proceed and so it makes bad/old plugs show themselves more easily.

Coilpacks are not like spark plugs.
They either are failing (causing misfires)or not. They dont start degrade in performance or function over time. Replace whats failed nothing more.
Thats not preventative to replace them all, thats stupidity.

Any idea on how tight to torque down the plugs? Or is that in the video?

The package that my new plugs came in said 20 N-m. I had to go buy a new torque wrench because I've never needed one for spark plugs before, and that was lower than the range of my 3/8" click type and greater than my little snap-on 1/4" drive. Good news is my local Sears had a cheap 3/8" beam type for $20 on sale, and that's all you really need for plugs - a beam type torque wrench is actually more reliable and accurate than all but the best clickers, the only drawback is it is difficult to use when you can't easily get a straight shot from your eyeball to the scale.

You could take a look at all of them, and whichever seems the most worn down, replace it (or as many as you want). Or you could do what i am doing, and keeping a replacement in the garage for when misfires start.

Not a bad idea to keep a spare, but how could one tell condition of a N54 coil from inspection?

Thanks for posting the Cobb Hotlink! very useful! as for Eric making the "gay" reference - usually guys that make such ignorant comments can't wait to get a dick in their mouths.

As i stated, if thats the most offensive thing youve read on the internet, i wish i lived in your secluded world.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gugs

Coilpacks are not like spark plugs.
They either are failing (causing misfires)or not. They dont start degrade in performance or function over time. Replace whats failed nothing more.
Thats not preventative to replace them all, thats stupidity.

From what ive read on coilpacks(may or may not be accurate, its what the internet has said):
The reason coilpacks fail is because the more they are used the more resistance the coils creates. Some specifics behind it:

with the added pressure within the cylinders from the proper utilization of the turbo, what i've been led to believe is that the more compressed air acts as furthur resistance for the spark plug, thereby requiring a higher voltage spike from the coil packs.
thus frying them before they were originally intended to die.

Ive always just heard that the more times they are used, the greater resistance the coil creates

Quote:

Originally Posted by N8N

The package that my new plugs came in said 20 N-m. I had to go buy a new torque wrench because I've never needed one for spark plugs before, and that was lower than the range of my 3/8" click type and greater than my little snap-on 1/4" drive. Good news is my local Sears had a cheap 3/8" beam type for $20 on sale, and that's all you really need for plugs - a beam type torque wrench is actually more reliable and accurate than all but the best clickers, the only drawback is it is difficult to use when you can't easily get a straight shot from your eyeball to the scale.

Thats what i ended up doing I got the $25 Sears beam-type torque wrench and an extension bar. This thread is somewhat old, and i recently had to replace a coilpack as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by E90Company

Both of these guys from Cali. Ironic

Haha Those kinds of people are the reason i spend way more time on the other forum... Less whiners.

Quote:

Originally Posted by N8N

Not a bad idea to keep a spare, but how could one tell condition of a N54 coil from inspection?

You cant necessarily tell from physical inspection, but it is possible to use a voltmeter, i believe. I personally dont know the process, but the interwebs have told me this