Seems risky to not resize unless you are sure the new rounds are going to chamber correctly in your firearm. I'm always one for procedures and skipping a step doesn't work for me. I resize new brass just to make sure. I will say that it goes into the sizing die much easier than once fired brass.

Good enough for you lot, good enough for me. Anyway, gives me something to do while thinking about work...

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How about just see how each case fits in gun? if its a revolver,and the cases can be dropped right in the cylinder, you dont need to size them.If a bolt action rifle, see if the cases drop in ok and then close the bolt and see if its tight -if not ,then dont bother sizing them. If a semi auto pistol it would be more of a pain to check -same with a semi auto rifle. just my 2cents

An oddity for me but I will go with the majority this time and suggest resizing. I admit that I did not until recently when I received an order of bulk brass from Midway that contained a sheet recommending initial sizing. It was either Rem or Win.

Oh man, this past weekend I loaded a bunch of .308 with new brass that I did not resize. This is the first time that I did not resize new brass and I don't know what got into me, I hope they chamber without any problems.

How about just see how each case fits in gun? if its a revolver,and the cases can be dropped right in the cylinder, you dont need to size them.If a bolt action rifle, see if the cases drop in ok and then close the bolt and see if its tight -if not ,then dont bother sizing them. If a semi auto pistol it would be more of a pain to check -same with a semi auto rifle. just my 2cents

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Buy 500 new pieces of brass and see if each one fits in the gun? What a way to spend a rainy day.

It is a good idea to resize new brass because so much of it comes through with dented case mouths. On my progressive Dillon RL550B it makes little difference if I size or not because the brass has to go into the first station anyway to get primed. Eliminating a step screws up the rhythm of operating the press and it is just easier to resize. If, for whatever reason (like after resizing and trimming the brass), I don't want to resize then I simply remove the sizing die from the press head and proceed as if it is there. You gots to have rhythm, man!

If you single stage reload it would make a time difference but the brass comes already sized and already the correct length (needs no trimming) and you only need to resize the dented brass. What you single stage press guys need to do is go progressive .

Just because manufacturers make brass in large quantities on large machines does not mean it is inaccurately made. In a ammo factory I would bet that the brass goes from the brass making machines directly to the ammo making machines, without any resizing being done.

When I buy new brass it is usually 200/300 at a time and I want them to be relatively uniform so my loads turn ot the same way. I size them, trim them, deburr the flash holes and sort them into lots of 50 based on weight. If I were a bencrest competition shooter I would probabally add turning the case necks to that as well. On that thought when you fire your loads on paper targets using a good rest and you get a flier that you know was dead on when the gun went off try this,,, take a sharpie pen and mark the base of the case andthose casesn seperate it from the herd. Clean those cases by hand as not to have the tumbler remove the sharpie ink and process them back into the lot they came from. If you get another flyer from that case you will know it as it has the suspect mark on it. If this happens again give it the old smash and trash treatment . I have weeded out quite a few cases over time this way where the cases visually and dimensionally seemed fine and the groups gets get better and better. Hi my name is Dave and I am a reloadaholic,,,