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You can get that pipe for a 4.0L and it will work. Replacement pumps are cheaper to make without that piece on it. The pump is the same as Grand Cherokee and Wrangler 4.0L pumps except the pulley offset.

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FOR SALE'87 Comanche 4.0L AW4/NP242 3.73 gears, lifted 5" on near new 33" tires $3500 obo'82 Eagle Wagon (Brown Betty) 4.2L/727/NP229 and soon 8.25 rear axle and non-vacuum 3.08 front to match. 235/75/15 tires. It's down to minor body work (someone creamed my driver's door but I have another in good shape) almost rust free and interior work (seats are worn and carpet torn). $2000 but about to go up due to more work being done.

Serpentine or non-serpentine has nothing to do with Fed or CA certs or A/C- Non A/C. It was just the progression from the old, V Belt set up to the modern Serpentine, though it was not pulled off very well with the 258's.

Serpentine belts have much larger contact area with their driven components and are less prone to heat/stretch issues. Additionally, they are suPPOSed to be easier to change (and on most vehicles are!) since one broad belt is used to drive all components (at least that's the way it is on MOST vehicles) with one adjustment point or tensioner. Unfortunately on the 258 it really wasn't planned as well as it could have been and is a marginal system a bit more difficult to deal with than it should be, though it is not untenable.

One thing with the Serp system is it is much more difficult to "lose the emissions" components to those who are so inclined. Many have made the mistake of reverting to the old Vbelt system, without planning to change the water pump with it!

I believe the change to V Belts occurred after the Chrysler Purchase in 86, however, I had an 88 with V Belts and I have had an 86 with Serpentine.

Thanks for clearing that up guys. I was just wondering about that.NAPA or (Never Any Parts Available) said the threaded kind was all they could get. At least in my area anyways, but the majority of parts workers in my area are not that knowledgeable, especially about AMCs, so who knows.

I have an '87 Eagle that is in need of a standard water pump - I tossed an aluminum auto zone one (and an AZ fan clutch) on there last year and i think it might have been the cause of her melt down. Does she require an original heavy cast water pump or has anyone out there put one of these easy to find, cheap aluminum ones with positive results?

A cheap one may or may not work. If the casting is sloppy and the impeller not pressed on right it's just junk.

The impeller needs to clear the casting by .070 to .050. You can adjust them fit with a wood block and a hammer. Too much gap, over .100, and it quickly looses pumping efficiency.

A sloppy casting can have thick or thin walls in the hose connections that will cause leaks.

Aluminum or iron doesn't matter, but an '87 should be aluminum from the factory. As long as the rotation is correct.

Hesco and Flowkooler make "high-performance" pumps.

Also, beware that the 4.0 pumps used a steel pipe screwed into the pump body instead of the usual 3/4 line barb for the heater return line. You have to get a nipple, some 1/2" line, and a reducer to adapt it if you don't have that steel line handy.

That steel line should come with the pump. If not, it's available on the "Help!" rack in most stores

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FOR SALE'87 Comanche 4.0L AW4/NP242 3.73 gears, lifted 5" on near new 33" tires $3500 obo'82 Eagle Wagon (Brown Betty) 4.2L/727/NP229 and soon 8.25 rear axle and non-vacuum 3.08 front to match. 235/75/15 tires. It's down to minor body work (someone creamed my driver's door but I have another in good shape) almost rust free and interior work (seats are worn and carpet torn). $2000 but about to go up due to more work being done.