After winningher 9th National Championshipin bouldering, Alex Puccio made the trip out to Bishop, CA where she has made a quick one day ascent of Matt Birch’s crimping testpiece The Swarm (V13)1. This is her eighth V13 or harder in the last eight months2.

There’s a bit in Jerry Moffatt’s (excellent) autobiography when he talks about his motivation for climbing. He insists he does not, and has never climbed for his ego. But then he brings up a TV interview from the 80s which they unearthed for him, where he is on film saying the main motivator for him to climb hard is to “burn off other people”.

I don’t know AJ personally, (I sat next to her at a comp once, highlight of my climbing career, I think), so I’ll refrain from mentioning her motivations. But, me, personally, I’ve had friends of mine walk up my long-standing projects before, and my usual reaction is a mixed bag of feeling excited for them, and total heartbreak for myself. Maybe that means my motivations are all wrong, but watching people climb something quickly that I’ve spent weeks on, doesn’t feel good. And when it happens enough times, sometimes I have to take a break from that project and start working something new. Maybe people who climb for a living are different.

No offense but if someone does a climb before you, why does it bother you? It would seem to suggest that you haven’t accepted that other climbers are more talented, stronger, or have different skill sets than you. Which, except for an extremely few climbers, climbing in the style in which they excel, should really come as no surprise. This isn’t meant to sound mean or to be directed at someone in particular, it’s just factual information that applies to almost everyone, myself included.

I think it’s one thing to FA something that you’ve put work into equipping and/or cleaning. That takes work and vision, and the first ascensionist is rightfully rewarded with a sense of adventure/discovery. I think it’s fine to give the person who cleaned or equipped a route/problem a little extra time to send it. If it’s already been done, well, you’re following in the FAist’s footsteps. Which is what I and most climbers do all the time. It’s perhaps not as adventurous but still very fun.

If someone is attempting a first (female, male, out-of-towner, Martian, etc) ascent, it’s really up to that person whether they want to request that others give them some time to accomplish what they are trying do, and others to choose to accept or ignore it. It’s still cool to hear about things like that, but honestly it’s more of a being there at the right time and getting things done/being lucky/having that ability. If you’re admittedly “seiging” something, then you really shouldn’t be that surprised or hurt if someone else beats you to the punch. And it should still carry a ton of significance to you for having done something that took you work and is hard for you.

Just some ramblings, not directed at anyone in particular. Climbing the Swarm is still a badass achievement no matter how long it takes you or your gender.

Totally agree. Why would you be bummed that someone quickly climbs your big project? Were you under the impression that you were the best climber in the world? No matter how strong you think you are, there will always be someone who can flash your project. The sooner you realize this, the sooner you can get on with enjoying the amazing experiences that climbing provides, regardless of how you compare to others.

Is it part of the climbing culture to deny all negative emotions, or deny the competitive spirit? We’re social creatures, of course you’re a bit bummed if somebody crushes your proj. Maybe not so much if it’s Adam Ondra, but still… what’s he got that I don’t? What’s he doing right that I’m doing wrong? It doesn’t mean the outcome has to be negative. Self reflection, improvements in style, training, diet, become a better climber. Otherwise, there’s good humor, friends, whiskeys, and IPAs.

I’m not suggesting that there aren’t or shouldn’t be negative emotions or competition in climbing. Just that if you are “deflated” or “heartbroken” when someone sends a boulder problem before you, you probably won’t enjoy climbing for very long. Like you say, it’s much better to be inspired and learn what you can, for the sake of getting better, not trying to be the best (because you never will be).

I’ve noticed this especially with prana sponsored climbers. I’d be shocked to see any semblance of frustration or competitive drive in one of the climbing videos they put out. Climbing is evidently an exclusively personal endeavor undertaken by automatons that only experience positive events.

I think I know what you’re talking about Matt. I really like the videos that prana, and many others put out. But at the same time, the vibe is so ‘Leave It To Beaver’.

For me, the recent video with Ron Klancnik and others was a breath of fresh air. I thoroughly enjoyed the edge, grit, and frustration, alongside the raised arms and shit-eating grins that accompanied their successes.

I guess I’ve just seiged enough problems that I’m no longer surprised when people crush them in no time. Sure, there’s some reflection and analysis of what they do differently and what I need to work on, and sure I’m a little envious, but beyond that I really don’t care that much.

I guess part of it is that I try to pick things I want to climb regardless of whether others have climbed them or will climb them before me or faster than me. Just project stuff you really want to do and the rest of it doesn’t matter that much.