Alice I just did Kili and would like to do Aconcauga in Argentyna‏. in 2012. Anyone who is planing to climb Aconcauga?

7 years ago

Lee_Y Hey Alice, I did Kili this year too and am pretty keen to move to the next step. However Aconcauga is a big next step with about an extra 1000m of acclimtisation to deal with over Kili. I have read a few report that Mt McKinley at 6,198 metres which i almost on your back door step is (weather permitting) supposed to be the next natural progression either that or Elbrus in Russia. I'm pretty keen for someone with experience on all 3 for any advice if they have any.

7 years ago

Lee_Y Good lord my spelling and grammar at 8:30am is quite disappointing.

7 years ago

Todd Hey Alice/Lee, we've also done Kili and were looking to do Aconcagua. From all reports, Elbrus is much less technical than Aconcagua and Denali, but it's in Russia and it's only a short expedition. I believe a ski lift (or cable car) takes you most of the way up.

Aconcagua is also less technical than the easiest route on Denali. So while it's much higher, I think it's not as challenging. We planned on doing Aconcagua last January, but the required gear stopped us. We are travelling long-term with very small bags, so we basically need to hire and purchase lots of gear. In particular, climbers need plastic boots (or equivalent) for Aconcagua. They're good for nothing else.

I had pretty serious boots for Kili but at least I could use them on other tough treks and in the snow. The boots needed for Aconcagua are only useful for high-altitude climbs or in Arctic conditions. So without anywhere to store all the gear (and the cost of hiring gear), we postponed Aconcagua.

All that said, we may be moving to Chile in December (for other reasons), so that would put us a couple of hours from Aconcagua for much of 2012. Would love to hear how you guys progress with plans.

Jebbert If any of you are planning trips for Aconcagua or Denali and need another I am totally in. Both of those are on my to do list before Everest. I will totally be up for Everest in 2013. Island Peak and Ama Dablam would be sweet to knock off to.
I have heard Base camp of Elbrus is just shit, contaminated with feces, and many other problems. Much rather pick Denali or Aconcagua over that one, if I had to decide right now.

I can understand peoples concerns on Elbrus, but Russia is not too far from the UK and would be good a experience of climbing in snow without the technical requirements that are needed of Mt Blanc before I attempt anything like Denali. Of course I wouldn’t use the cable car if it is possible.

I’m trying ice climbing this year for the first time in Scotland and will probably practice each year, along with the bouldering I already do. Eventually I’ll have built up enough skill on confidence to do Mt Blanc on other more technical climbs.

The way I see it these things aren't meant to be rushed unless your are a millionaire that is also a super athlete and I happen to be neither.

After I did the Everest base camp trek 3 years ago I always knew I would come back to Nepal several times in my life and if at one point I had gathered enough experience and fitness to climb the worlds tallest mountain I’d go for it. In the meantime, I’m still young and I’ve decided to climb a mountain and run a marathon each year of my life and work my way towards going higher and faster but there's no rush.

I reached the summit of Kili in 3 days and was back in my hotel on the 4th day so I know I’m fit but I know how much harder and colder those extra 1000m are going to be. Just read this blog which I enjoyed: http://7summits.com/aconcagua/tripreportsth1.php that is worth a look. If anyone knows of any mountains worth looking at that would be around 6400-6700m I love to hear of them. If I speak to someone who has a lot of experience who thinks I could do it, I’d give it a go next year. Otherwise its unlikely.

Lauren I am down for Aconcagua or Denali. Both really appeal to me, but I would need a bit of time to train and get all the necessary gear. What time frame are we looking at for next year? Aconcagua season is Dec-Feb I think, and Denali would be Summer (June-Aug).

7 years ago

Jebbert Gasherbrum-V is a 6900m mountain in Pakistan. Though you'll be walking past a few 8000ers including K2 to get to it, so that might be depressing. Trango towers would be a good one to if your at all into Alpine rock climbing. Shivling in India is pretty striking to. Maybe Even Mt Logan here in Canada. It is shy of your altitude, but it is sure to test your endurance as it is quite the hike to the mountain. I am pretty sure it is the largest mountain in the world in area to.
You are correct about the seasons for both mountains Lauren. I'm from Canada to and might be down for Aconcagua for sure next year.

Jebbert Siula Grande in Peru home of the Touching the Void story with Joe Simpson is another one that falls into your search criteria. I am fairly certain the South face is still unclimbed if your looking for a monumental challenge. I think the North Ridge is the easy route on that mountain. There are a quite a few in South America. Illampu in Bolivia has a hard normal route compared to others in Bolivia. Huascaran in Peru also comes to mind. There are a allot of nice ones that fall short of that altitude but a much more technically demanding.

7 years ago

Andy Sparks Lee_Y, for 6400 to 6700m peaks, I'd suggest looking in Bolivia and Peru. I have a friend who climbed Sajama and Huascaran this summer and Chopicalqui last summer. He had great experiences on both trips. There seem to be a lot of great objectives in the Cordillera Blanca (http://www.summitpost.org/cordillera-blanca-range/mountains-rocks/p-152467) and the Cordillera Real (http://www.summitpost.org/cordillera-real-bolivia/mountains-rocks/p-319611). If it has to be over 6400m, then some in Peru and Bolivia that qualify are: Huascaran (over 6700m), Sajama, Illimani, and Ancohuma. If you are willing to extend the search down to 6300m, then Chopicalqui, Illampu, Parinacota, and Chimborazo in Ecuador may be good options. I climbed Chimborazo last January it was a good experience but not my favourite mountain. I thought Cotopaxi was nicer, but it is under 6000m. I've climbed Aconcagua and Denali, both good mountains, but crowded because of their 7 summits status. I’ve been to Logan in the Yukon, which is a big mountain that feels remote.

7 years ago

Alice Ineed time to train and get all the necessary gear too. Its different then Kili for sure. When is good season for Aconcauga? I was thinking about 1st quarter of 2012. Anyone thinking to do together? I am from Canada

Lee_Y Hey Alice, that seems like a realistic time frame for me as i'm booked up at the start of next year. Even if we don't end up climbing together it would be useful to pool information on prices and information etc. I'll let you know when I start organising something over the next few months.

7 years ago

Jebbert Aconcagua would be awesome to do next year. I was hoping to do it this year but ran into financial struggles. I completely forget what the price was working out to be in the end, but I will try and figure it out again.
From what I hear you can sometimes struggle getting your gear down there. Some people find it easier to buy there gear there, and sell it afterwards. That way you avoid people trying to get money out of you because they know you need your gear. Though this is what I have heard. Don't know how bad it actually is.