The hearth has been the traditional symbol and gathering place for the family, and autumn marks the family's return from the outdoors to the modern hearth, the kitchen, where light, warmth and nourishing food await. Teenagers may perch on counter stools to recount their day and sneak bites from the bread basket. Toddlers may play with trucks underfoot as the pasta boils.

Technically, food is fuel. But combined with home and family, it becomes something more. If it didn't, people wouldn't remember their grandmother's noodle and cabbage casserole with such fondness, or feel better after eating a homemade cookie made just for them.

In summer, salads and ripe fruits offer refreshment and a way to cool down. In autumn, warm food from the oven offers comfort and a sense of home. Home at this time smells like roast chicken, freshly baked bread and oatmeal cookies.

As the hours of daylight decrease, we move indoors and turn inward. Days filled with hectic school schedules and fall work projects give way to dark and frosty evenings. Once dinnertime arrives, it's time to reconnect with loved ones and slow down.

Fall also offers opportunities for family adventure. Visiting local farms and orchards makes for a fun afternoon, while giving children a chance to see agriculture at work and participate in the harvest. Many offer children's activities and value-added products such as cider and jam.

Seasonal pick-your-own produce includes apples, pumpkins, Concord grapes and fall raspberries, though the summer drought has meant some crop shortages. Visit pickyourown.org or farmfreshatlas.org for an area list of u-pick farms; best to call ahead for hours.

Not up for gathering your own? You'll still need a big basket if you shop the farmers market.

The Brassica family (broccoli, cabbage and the like) thrives during chilly weather, some improving in flavor after a frost increases sugar levels. Look for fresh brussels sprouts, kale and kohlrabi - cooked lightly, these underused vegetables are sweet and delicious instead of bitter.

Other cool-season foods may re-emerge after a hot summer hiatus - look for lettuce, spinach and beets. Fall is also primary harvest time for apples, pears and winter squash, along with root cellar favorites such as carrots, onions, garlic and potatoes.

As temperatures drop, I not only transition to these ingredients, but I also turn from grill to oven, welcoming the heat provided by cooking a roast or baking a batch of cookies. I am also able to develop a rhythm in the kitchen that allows me to cook mostly from-scratch meals without much fuss.

Fall is here, bringing with it school, football, fireworks of foliage and some time well-spent in the kitchen. Fill the house with the aroma of something delicious baking or roasting, and bring your family to the hearth.

Recipes

If you're not able to have a family dinner, try getting together for breakfast. When your bed is warm and the air is chilled, it's hard to get going in the morning. A hot breakfast helps. This oatmeal is creamy with coconut milk and kissed by raspberries for a zippy flavor and cheerful pink hue.

Remove raspberries from freezer and set aside so they can start to thaw while you get on with the oats.

Whir the oats in a blender or food processor for a few pulses. Do not pulverize into powder; just chop into smaller oat bits. (This isn't a necessary step, but I like that they cook faster and yield a creamier oatmeal. It also is a nice texture for young toddlers.)

In a saucepan over medium-low heat, bring the coconut milk to a boil. When it begins to bubble, whisk in oats and reduce heat. Cook 5 minutes, whisking frequently.

Remove from heat and stir in coconut, the raspberries and the maple syrup. As you stir, the berries will completely thaw and melt into the porridge. Bonus: The berries cool the oatmeal just enough so it can be eaten immediately.

Top with a little more milk (if you like it super-creamy) and a few whole raspberries, if desired. Greek yogurt and sliced almonds also would be nice, and would amp up the nutritional value even more.

-----

This is a Sunday dinner to be proud of. Start the week off right, sitting down as a family for a hearty meal. Roast meat fills the house with a mouthwatering fragrance. The juicy pork is served on a compote of silky apples and onions, while everything is offset by crunchy, buttery mustard-infused bread crumbs. Leftovers make wonderful sandwiches the next day. The pork needs to brine overnight, so plan accordingly.

In a large bowl, combine apples, onion, 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon melted butter. Add the 1 teaspoon minced rosemary and salt and pepper to taste. Toss to coat, and place in a shallow roasting pan (about 13 by 11 inches).

Heat 1 cup cider in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook until reduced by half. Whisk in the 1 tablespoon maple syrup and 1 tablespoon mustard to make a glaze for the meat.

In a large skillet, heat remaining tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat. Using tongs, sear each side of the pork until golden. (Be careful - the oil sputters.) When finished, use tongs to set roast on bed of apples and onions.

Return skillet to high heat for deglazing, and add remaining 1 cup cider. Cook until reduced by half, scraping up all of the browned bits. Carefully pour liquid over apples and onions, avoiding the pork.

Brush half of mustard maple glaze on pork and place on a rack in middle of preheated oven. Roast 45 minutes, then brush pork with remaining glaze. Insert an instant-read thermometer into center of roast, and finish cooking until pork reaches 140 to 145 degrees, an additional 25 to 35 minutes.

When pork is finished cooking, place on a cutting board (preferably with a trough to catch juices). Tent with foil and let rest at least 15 minutes. While meat is resting, increase oven temperature to 375 degrees and spread bread crumbs on a baking sheet. Toast until golden brown, about 10 to 12 minutes, stirring every few minutes.

Some foods are made for one another, but browned butter is made for everything. Whole-wheat pasta is combined with caramelized winter squash and tender green beans, and then tossed with a browned butter shallot sauce. Sharp pecorino and crunchy toasted hazelnuts finish off this simple yet elegant weeknight meal.

If green beans aren't available, trimmed and quartered brussels sprouts can be used.

Winter Squash and Pasta in Browned Butter
Makes 6 to 8 servings

½ cup raw hazelnuts, chopped

1 small butternut or other winter squash (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into small cubes

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 shallot, minced

1 pound whole-wheat or regular pasta

2 cups green beans, cut into thirds

Pecorino cheese for topping

In a large dry skillet, toast nuts over medium heat. Stir until fragrant, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat; transfer nuts to a small bowl.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add squash and simmer until al dente, about 4 minutes.

While squash is cooking, melt butter over medium-low heat in the same skillet you used to toast the nuts. Cook butter, swirling pan, until it turns a golden brown and smells nutty. Add thyme and shallot.

Using a slotted spoon or spider (a small long-handled strainer), remove squash from water and add to browned butter. Stirring occasionally, cook over medium-low heat until squash is tender.

Return water to a boil and add pasta and green beans. Cook until pasta is al dente and beans are bright green, about 8 minutes. Drain pasta and beans and add to squash, tossing to coat. Serve with toasted hazelnuts and pecorino cheese.

-----

Poached fruit is a versatile autumn dessert. Peeling and gently simmering in a sweet and spicy bath infuses and softens the fruit, making it a delicious accompaniment to ice cream or gingersnaps. Or, enjoy by itself or as a topping for yogurt.

In a saucepan or deep skillet large enough to hold pears in a single layer, combine all ingredients except pears. Bring liquid to a gentle boil and stir until sugar is dissolved. Add pears and reduce heat to low. Cut a circle of parchment paper and press directly on pears and poaching liquid (this helps keep the fruit submerged, a little tip from dessert connoisseur David Lebovitz). Cover with lid and simmer gently 20 to 30 minutes, until pears are soft but still holding their shape.

Serve or store pears in liquid immediately, or remove pears and set aside. Strain out spices and return liquid to medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, and reduce liquid by half to create a syrupy sauce. Watch carefully and stir frequently to ensure it doesn't reduce too much and burn.

About Anna Thomas Bates

Anna Thomas Bates is a mother and writer living in southern Wisconsin. Find more recipes and stories on her blog.