I have rebuilt more cars and motorbikes than I care to mention. Firstly getting the dam thing in the air high enough to get the bar out; then those bushes. Arrrrrrr. The sway bar holes in the brushes were smallers than the originals and were a good 3mm from meeting once over the bar. I managed to smack one in but due to the distortion only the front was lining up with rear more than the bolt width away from the opening. Then the guide clamps on the bar were out by a few mill so once I had one in the other would not line, so out it came to fix that one. I then shaved some off each bush to get them in but the holes were not even close. I tried the normal tricks with putting them in boiling water and when that didn't work, then putting them in position with a series of clamps to compress them. Finally I did the worst thing you should never do and drilled the retaing holes out by a mm. Still, even this did not work. So, I thought what the hell and looked at the original half plastic bushes. They did not meet by approx 2mm but basically they pushed into position first go and the bolts went straight through.

So the bar is in with lots of ships in the paint but at least the bike went back together quickly from there.

I must say the plastic link arms on the sway bar look pretty feeble. Has anyone had issues with these breaking?

The Sway bar on the Pre 2013 are easy to fit, BRP changed the Sway bar on the 2013/14, It is a lot harder to fit than the earlier models, The front of the bike needs to be elevated as Craig said, to remove the old bar as it is longer than previous models.

I played around with suspension settings and tyre pressures until my Rt rode really well.Then I threw a huge spanner into the works by installing Elka shocks, changing to car tyres and towing a camper trailer.

Have had this combo for a couple of years and am still experimenting with tyre pressures to make it a more comfortable ride when 2 up and towing.But to also be allowed to have some fun when riding solo.

Craig-RSS

I agree. I believe around the 20psi mark in the fronts would have been my guess. The problem then becomes the standard shocks (fox podium from memory) r pretty ordinary. As the tyre pressure goes up the tyre is reducing the roll it plays as part of the shock. The compression and rebound setting need to be increased by around 10% as a starter. I would hate to think of the issues you guys would have with the kitted out spyders. For my weight the spring seem adequate. But I have always been a big fan of progressively wound units. I like it soft when cruising but like to know it can take a hit when I am getting into it.

I take there are plenty of after market shocks out there with adjustable compression and rebound. Maybe ones with high speed damping as well. However this is along way off before I go down that route. I have spent too many years blowing money no race bikes and modifying cars. This new toy is suppose to be a park and forget item.

I can feel that dam modifying itch coming back. Now if I could find a cheap way to scratch it.

Might have to ride the bike to work tomorrow with a different front tyre pressure. You know; for purely scientific purposes.

I have a 2013 ST Manual, which is very similar to your RSS. I have the Fox Shocks set pretty much on the middle, about 5-6 threads showing, and Stock Swaybar. I run 18 in front and 30 in rear. I have done since I have had it, Im a big guy and it suits me fine. I think you are doing the right thing by not changing too much too quickly. A decent time in the seat after each change gives you a better idea of what you need.Good move on the Swaybar, I should have changed mine to the Wespyd bar, but procrastinated, now Im trying to sell mine before my F3 arrives.And a wheel alignment is also a definite do too.

Craig-RSS

Righto, 20psi in the tyres today. Because of the storms around today i was not going to run up the mountains this arvo. However the run home was enough to advise that there is a difference. Yes, it is a good difference. I would say it has increased the turning threshold by around 5% but in the short run it has further reduced the dartiness off straight ahead. It will be interesting to see the high speed difference.

The low speed ride was hardly affected by the increased tyre pressure. Yes, it was slightly choppier but well worth the reduction in twitchy/dartiness from the straight ahead.

So, the sway has made an excellent improvement, the tyre pressure has also made an improvement and next the wheel alignment.

Craig-RSS

Just came back from Col's after having a wheel alignment. The bike was pretty close but out a couple of mm. I gave Col and hand and we knocked it over pretty quickly.

Afterwards we sat down had a cuppa and a chat about his new machine and some of the mods he has done to various machines over the years.

Decided to take the long way home to try it the new alignment. Boy; from where the standard spyder was a week ago to where it is now, to say it is different is an understatement.

The bike is sooo stable and easy to ride now. It doesn't want to wobble down the road and cross breezes do not affect it now.

So between a swaybar, a bit more air pressure in the tyres and a wheel alignment has transformed the bike. It just puts a smile on your face now instead of putting a mark in your jocks when you hit a small bump or accidentally lean on the steering from a small bump.

The problem is now it highlights how crap the standard fox shocks are. The bike really needs more pressure in the front tyres but the shocks cannot cope. They really need some serious rebound adjustment.

I will go out tomorrow for a long run to confirm my suspicions on the shocks and any other tweaks that might be simple. Putting some camber on the front will help. That should be a fairly simple job of modifying the top A arm with some adjustable rods.

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Craig-RSS

Finally was able to meet some of you fine folk on the weekend. I met up with Col on his new STS and rode up to the coffee caravan at Mt.Mee. From there the North Coast gang arrived shortly after lead by BJ.

We formed up our little group of 6 or so spyders and headed off to the pit stop cafe.

We grabbed a drink and a bite to eat. Word of warning; don't get the baby quiche and salad unless you like it very well seasoned. Here we exchanged some yarns, told some bad jokes, had a few laughs and had a winged about whatever the current topic was.

I got the itch before the other. Said my farewells and jumped back on the bike and headed down the mountain towards Dayboro and took the twisties through the back of Draper.

The bike is much nicer to ride now. However, like everything; once you fix one item you find the limit on the next. I am not sure what the next biggest issue is. It is either the crap Kumhos or the equally bad fox shocks. The pocket money is empty at the moment so I will have to wait before making any more changes.

I will try increasing the spring pre-load and a little more pressure in the tyres but I think the ride will become to compromised from the shocks bouncing all over the road. Oh well, little steps.

By the way is anyone going riding over Easter? Always keen to do a few kays around the corners and blow out some of the cobwebs. I will be doing a few runs around Mt.ee, Mt.Glorious and Mt.Nebo.

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Adrian

Craig, I test rode an RSS with fox shocks after I was used to Wendy's RT with Elkas. Yep - they were hard with poor damping. I didn't think they were much better than the standard shocks on the other models.

The Elkas (and I've ridden an ST with Wilburs which were much the same) are much more compliant. Most bumps you simply don't feel and there is no bump-diversion from the front end.