Tasting NoteShows a perfumy hint, with black tea and singed allspice notes out front, followed by a core of steeped plum and blackberry fruit. Light anise and apple wood details fill in on the finish. Supple yet well-packed. Best from 2020 through 2030–JM

Tasting NoteThis shows a rich and dense nose of blackberry, coffee and smoke. Full-bodied, with soft and round tannins and a long, smoky finish. Very fresh and velvety. GL is really doing excellent things these days, even in less-than-easy vintages. Best after 2008

Tasting NoteThe plum, cassis and raspberry fruit is allied to singed sandalwood and apple wood notes, with a lingering spice accent on the judiciously toasty finish. A rather elegant rendering of St.-Julien that should hold on well enough in the cellar. Best from 2015 through 2025.–JM

Tasting NoteInviting, with a fleshy core of plum, blackberry and anise notes, lined with graphite and warm fruitcake hints and supported by a juicy finish that keeps the toast in the background. Very solid and without the overtly austere feel of the vintage. Drink now through 2021.–JM