There is no adjustment on the rear fenders, so they went on 1st in my case, followed by the fronts, can't install the fronts if you put the doors on before, then the doors, you can move the fronts about slightly but most of the movement is the DOORS, be patient with them they can be a PITA. Once all that is in place trunk or hood doesn't matter which, only the hood you can still move the fenders a bit in and out for better gap. But the hood is best done with two people, and if the back of it is riding high open it up as high as you can and retighten that will get it to sit lower.

I have quite wide panel gaps so if the rear fenders are fixed and there is only a small amount of adjustment in the fronts then I am not going to be able to achieve the tight panel gaps seen on some of the photos on here.

Do you know how the tight panel gaps are achieved? Do you have to build up the rear of the front fender to make it longer? If so that is outside my shill set and sounds expensive....

The biggest point to set gaps I found was the door shut pillar, the panel next to your shoulder if you were sitting in the car, that normally is a fixed point and basically everything is dictated by it. In my case I replaced a rusty lower section of it and ended up with the newer section slightly to the rear which made getting decent gaps impossible. Had to cut the weld and move it forward, which ended up doing the trick. Dry fit the rear / front and doors, check your gaps and adjust from there, surprisingly the rear will come forward somewhat but the pillar has to be re-anchored strongly when you get the best location.