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How to replace inner tie rod end

Replacing the outer tie rod end is fairly straightforward. You loosen the jam nut and mark the position and then use a balljoint separator to remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. So far, so good. I was told that I have replace my inner tie rod end. I looked in the Haynes book but there is nothing there. I can see what it looks like and I assume I have to remove the outer to get to the inner. So what do I do once I get the outer off?

Turn the wheel to one side to extend that side of the rack. Remove the outer end. Then remove the boot that covers the inner joint. You'll need to hold the rack on one of it's flats with a very large crescent wrench while you unscrew the inner rod end. If there are flats on the inner socket, you can grab onto those. Biggest problem in doing this is clearance and leverage. Never try to unscrew the joint without holding the rack. You can damage the pinion gear and then you'll be buying a whole new rack. If you can recruit a helper for this, it makes the job a lot easier.

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. I now have over 400 repair articles, TSBs, and wiring diagrams on my blog: http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com//

Well, that's not quite true. On the 4th generation van, the inner tie rod ends are an integral part of the steering rack. I will confess I have not see a piece of steel on the ground; however, the factory manual states so, and this was the way the inner's on my van were fixed.

If you talk nice to the district manager you might get them to pick up a percentage of the cost (assuming your van is out of warranty). Ours was. They picked up the parts, we paid the labor. Close to a 50/50 split.

Well, that's not quite true. On the 4th generation van, the inner tie rod ends are an integral part of the steering rack.
Mac

Don't always be so sure.

There are kits out there to fix "unrepairable" steering racks from several manufacturers. Also, a good aftermarket rebuild might be a good alternative that is $$$ cheaper than a factory part.

An example of this were the GM X-body steering racks of the 80s. The casting metal would wear over time, causing binding. It was actually better to get a reman (that had been "sleeved" with a harder guide material) than a new GM part...

Steering racks are a good deal less intense to rebuild than an engine.

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. I now have over 400 repair articles, TSBs, and wiring diagrams on my blog: http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com//

An example of this were the GM X-body steering racks of the 80s. The casting metal would wear over time, causing binding. It was actually better to get a reman (that had been "sleeved" with a harder guide material) than a new GM part...

My 2001 has developed clunking in the front end, and a quick check revealed play in both inner tie rods.

After searching and reading all the posts, I'm confused about the servicability of these parts. Rockauto.com Shows the new inners are available, and my searching revealed that the rack is said both to be not servicable, while others reported replacing inner tie rod ends.

Also mentioned is a lack of flats on the rack itself, as well as a lack of a hex at the inner tierod.

Of those who have replaced the inner tierods them selves, could you offer any insight?

I've recently replaced the outer ties on my 2001. I could not figure out how to replace the inners if they even exist. It seems they may be intergral to the rack. Tried to research also and came up short. Maybe some models have replaceable inners? Did you check the outer ties? MIne were tricky to diagnose. Had to move the tie rod vertically to get it to move in the knuckle. Did you feel movement in the rack?

The standard way to diagnose tierod issues is to jack up the corner and push/pull the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions. If play is felt, you then determine if it is at the inner or outer tierod location by holding the rod and visualy verifying where the play is coming from. A pry bar on the the outer as well as the ball joint also helps determine where the problem is. I plan on replacing the outers as well in any case since it will be easier and they are likely to be damaged when removing them from the spindle. This will also allow more accuratly setting up the new parts to mimic the lengths of the existing parts.

I went down to autozone and lifetime replacements where in stock and cheap at just 14.99 a piece. I have changed inners on my other vehicle and one issue i did find is the the shape of the inner retaining ball is a little scewy on the minivan parts. The hex is very narrow and will require a huge and thin (~1 3/16) open end wrench. The shape of the inner ball socket is odd in that it has a larger O.D. then the actual hex section. It may be that the stock inner rod lacks any hex at all. In which case a pope wrench will be needed to remove it. The replacement part also lacked the holes found on more typical inner tierod end that use a drift pin for positive location, so some locking compound might be used with the OEM part.

Another common issue with changing the inners is that the bellows clamps are non servicable crimp types, so you need to be a little creative to salvage the existing bellows to reuse them with out damage. spring type screw clamps are available at better shops like napa/carquest. In the past, I have cut the old tierod with a sawzall after removal to aid in sliding the bellows off with out damaging it for reuse.

ANyways, I'm going to attempt to change them out and i'll report back on if I can make the repair.

BTW, Rockauto lists the same part number for both 2001 and 2003 models (the only two i checked) so there doesn't apear to be any changes at least over those years.