The following user Likes kstarr's post:

Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

So I'm finally back to reviving this boat, going the whole 9 yards, should get 'er done this summer. New coat of metal flake, complete engine rebuild, interior redesign, and adding a place diverter. After further disassembly and meeting with the paint/fiberglass shop and interior guy, I've come up with a handful of questions.

I'll start with just two for now: does anyone know if the two aluminum bars over the back steps will slide out if I remove the fiberglass slapped over the ends that are protruding into the engine bay? I was asked if I was partial to them staying in place (I am, I tie the boat to the dock with those bars, plus I like their look). I'm hoping they're just in a socket in the exterior of the body and only glassed in on the interior. Confirmation would be great, before I start hacking at things.

Other question: I'm removing the padded perimeter bar (don't know what it's called) that wraps around the cabin... well, trying to, without breaking anything. I'm probably just going to start slicing through the old vinyl but just want to know if there are any known tricks, how it's mounted, what to tackle first, etc. It's attached pretty good.

Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

Q1= that bar is really that strong and you’d be better off to buy a cleat to moor with. They make a cleat that recesses into itself for a more flush look, and is made to moor with. Those rear bars are only for swimmers to pull themselves up on the transom area, as for the short bars behind the drivers, one end should(?) have a small tab tack welded, and the other end is glassed over. It was for a passenger grab handle. Both add value and style specific to the Carlson unique designs. But at the end of the day, it’s your boat, your decision....Dean IMHO...

The following user Likes Redeye1620's post:

Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

Thanks guys, I was able to get the padded side panel off. At first I was too impatient to pull all the staples out (there are probably 400+), but I started down that path and it seemed to be the best way to take everything off in full sections, so that the guy who's replacing it all will have a clear picture of what to do during the re-installation.

Regarding the back swimmer bars... as far as I can tell, they are the strongest pieces of metal on the boat, with the exception of maybe the CVX-20 grab rail for front passenger. The swimmer bars don't spin, slide, or rattle, and I've tied the boat down using them for years. They are sunken into a socket on the outer part of the body, and (I think) are inside a wooden receptacle in the engine bay, which are completely glassed over. I can't imagine a pair of screws holding a cleat down is stronger, but I do think a recessed cleat in the right location would be nice to have - I'll look into those.

But, wanting to continue mooring to those bars was a secondary point. It's more an aesthetics thing. He asked if he could remove them to glass and paint over the holes, but it will change the look of that area too much for me. I'd still like them to come out before he paints though, so he doesn't have to tape the bar off.

The following user Likes kstarr's post:

Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

Anyone have an inducer on their jet pump? I may be replacing my pump shaft since it's pretty worn and I've got so many other new parts going in, it seems logical. I was poking around the berkeley parts site and I noticed I can get a shaft pre-machined for an inducer. My boat didn't come with one, but apparently it improves low and mid-range power by reducing cavitation, and doesn't sacrifice top speed. Just wondering if anyone uses one or knows if they are worth the extra $. Looks like a stock shaft will set me back $300, or the inducer/impeller shaft is $330, plus the inducer itself, another $300.