At least once a week, I get a familiar feeling, a hunger that won't fade -- the desire for a big plate of pasta.

The Pasta Mill in the Shoppers Square center on Plumb Lane is a locally owned, cozy, family friendly place that serves straightforward, hearty pasta dishes. The menu also offers soups, salads and sandwiches. Everything is reasonably priced -- I had an entrée-sized Caesar salad for $4. That's a great value any day, anywhere.

Shoppers Square is an older center, which presents ambiance challenges for the proprietors, but they do their best to disguise the location -- one wall is painted deep ruby; checked curtains in red, white and green cheer up the windows; old family photos stairstep across a wall; a giant tapestry adorns another.

The menu is small but well executed.

Classic garlic bread is as mild as garlic allows, and my teeth sink into buttery softness.

That generous Caesar salad? It scores. Crisp romaine and baby romaine are graced with just the right amount of dressing, which is creamy and tangy. Crunchy croutons, though, are inconsistent -- one time they're a little scorched, another they taste like they're a few days old. The crowning glory, however, is the generous blanket of parmesan shavings covering the salad -- they are a delight.

The minestrone isn't as successful. Kidney beans, carrots, celery and sausage (a surprising ingredient) swim in a thick tomato broth. The soup seems less like minestrone and more like chili's first cousin.

The meatball sandwich comprises beefy meatballs, marinara and melted mozzarella on fresh, crusty bread. The combination is satisfying, the marinara tempering the richness of the meatballs and mozzarella.

Meat lasagna performs nicely, featuring noodles that are thickly layered with ricotta and mozzarella and a robust Bolognese sauce on top. Flecks of onion and olive peek from the tomato sauce.

Cheesecake built on a buttery graham cracker crust is served with berry or caramel pecan sauce.

The caramel is my (delicious) poison of choice -- it adds richness and depth to the confection.

Service is stellar. On two different visits, one server cheerfully waits on all the tables in the room. It's refreshing to eat at a restaurant where the employees so obviously enjoy their jobs.

The Pasta Mill does what it does well. The entrées are -- dare I say? -- cheap (but in the best sense of the word). Combine that with solid flavor and super friendly service, and it's no wonder The Pasta Mill is a longtime local favorite.