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If the leak stops when you pull the trigger and hold it in you just need to replace the power tube O ring. If the gun has set for years though. Spend 20 bux on a parts kit. Put the full set of O rings in it and the new bolt spring and she will probably fire as good as new.

Oh! And air is most likely leaking down the barrel because the oring in the power tube is wore out and letting air pass by. If your is from the 80s or early 90s it might do some good to get rid of the spring in the power tube as well and go to a spacer like on later models of automags.

Did you oil everything really well when you replaced all the orings? If not, do so.

Turn up the velocity. Try again. This might get it to shoot and seal the leak.

If it shoots, but still leaks do you have a small spring or a spacer within the powertube? If a spring, get a spacer kit, and follow the directions it comes with. You could also get a Level 10, but that would be 7-8 times the cost of a spacer kit, and would require some additional tuning.

My recommendation is to get the spacer kit to make sure the thing works. Check the B/S/T forum. You may find a kit cheap there. Later you could go Level 10 if you so desire.

Thank you for the reply. The air leak is less than it was on previous trys over the years.

Nathin, You asked if I oiled the o-rings and well No I did not but will next time I pull it apart in this week. Your rite I could turn up the velocity and may help as well. Spacer kit is new to me but I will look for 1 and see.

So my homework is to.....

1) Take apart and oil the o-rings.
2) Turn up the velocity
3) Post a picture of valve and bolt off.

Questions: 1)What gun oil is reccomended???
2)Just to be sure, is the velocity the hex nut on the back of the marker???

See the small brass cylinder to the left of the blue bumper? That's the piece that used to be a small spring on the original Automags, but I'm recommending you buy the kit of slightly varying length brass cylinders to properly tune your marker. Linked here:

I am sure both your advice is going to work, I am going to bite the bullet and spring for the 5 Brass Cyinders. I will look for ones from AGD but fear they may sock me with shipping more than the o-ring cost.

nak81 Thank you for the awsome websites! never saw such an Automag diagram that well done.

In reading the diagram of an Automag listed below, It looks as though there are 2 orings just below the on/off pin housing.
The 1st is a smaller teflon o-ring while the second is a larger one that goes around it.

1) Is the larger one rubber?
2) I have seen where the larger one is not even shown in a video (Old viteo) Is the large one needed or otherwise?

Some valves have a step in the on/off hole, so they only require one oring. I think that is only for old RT and E-Mag valves though, but it may be for some of the old Classic valves as well.

Only the early retro/RT/emag valves had the stepped indentation in the on-off hole. All classic/AIR valves, newer retro valves, and all X-valves have the flat bottom on the on-off hole.

The larger urethane oring holds the smaller oring in place above the on-off top. In the classic valve the small oring is teflon so that it will work with CO2. In the retro valve it is urethane. In the emag it is a buna quad oring.

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

I aired it up yesterday and nothing but big leak down the barrel after first air shot. I will keep trying to get Power tube spacers, Hopefully they will keep the o-ring in place. The two places I tried over tha last few days had problems with there web site... At least for there ordering.

Laku, Thank you for the reply and The Tunamart Email! I did email Tunamart after the orders did not go through, but am not sure if it was that email address. The one you gave me is the next I will try.

Spider-TW I have transplanted from North Jersey to in South Carolina. It would a privilage for me to keep you posted.