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About Highlander

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If your still looking for a guide service, check out Kaf Adventures http://www.kafadventures.com/. Mick Pearson runs it, and is a great guy who is into teaching skills and not just dragging you up a peak.

I replaced my 7mm cord with the bluewater 6mm searchline, which seems to be working well. It's sheath is suppose to be resistant to heat so it won't melt while rapeling and its as strong as 7mm cord. I found a supplier that sells them for 50% off retail on ebay. $89 http://cgi.ebay.com/BlueWater-6mm-x-200-Technora-SearchLine-/280605087651?pt=BI_Security_Fire_Protection&hash=item41555dd7a3

Here is a few, no crowds and more adventure than your typical Supertopo climbs:
Lower Brother: Absolutly Free to Hawkmans Escape 5.9
Widows Tear Area: Windfall or Windjammer 5.11, there is a continuation to the top of the point that looks adventurous.
Sentinel Creek: Mental Block 5.10c, also all the single pitch climbs in the area are classic
Schultz's Ridge: Demons Delight 5.11A
Lower Cathedral Rock: Beggars Buttress: 5.11b
Cream Area: Energy Crisis 5.11d (single pitch)

I have climbed Mescalito, and it's a great route. I won't give you much beta because part of doing a wall route is figuring out, but the route can be done hammerless but does rely on some fixed gear, so bring a good selection of heads in case any are blown, a few lost arrows, and a few sawed angles. Cam hooks and hybrid aliens help the route go clean, 3 sets of hybrids would be nice to have. The Bismark pitch requires some wide lie backing or lasso tricks or big bros at the top.
Have fun and if you don't have any big wall experience in Yosemite, you should warm-up on something smaller or chances are you will bail, and try not to nail.

I am on my way to Squamish today and will be looking to do some climbing on Friday and will be up there as long as the weather is good. I Lead in the 10's. If interested in linking up, give me a call @ 817-676-4898, leave a voicemail or text if I don't pick up.
Dan

I am back in the Northwest for the next month or so depending on the weather. I am climbing full time so weekdays and weekends. Looking for solid, motivated partners for climbs in the Stuart Range, North Cascades, WA Pass, Index and Squamish. I lead 5.10 A3+; enjoy aplpine rock and long multi pitch routes, but also like cragging occasionaly. Not really into snow slogs unless its part of the approach to some good alpine rock. Right now I am chilin in Leavenworth. Sned me a PM or the best way would be to contact me on my Cell @ 817-676-4898, leave a voicemail as I may be out climbing and reception is not great in the Icicle where I am bivying. Don't have regular access to internet.
Dan blog

Petzl Ascenders are the Standard, I have used mine for many years and have been up El Cap numerous times, in my opinion no other ascender is close. They are light weight and are the easiest and quickest for unclipping on and off the rope, which is a big plus on steep walls. The BD's are a bit ackward to unclip off the rope.

The ways I use the tag line system is by depending on your lead line as your life line and the tag line is simply used as a retrival system. You want to have your rap set up so that if for some reason your tag line is cut, your lead line is going to act like a fixed line, because the knot will not pass through the rap anchor. If you have it set up the other way where you are going to pull the lead line after rapping, and the tag line is cut will rapping, your taking the ride. Another plus with having the knot set up for pulling the tag line after rapping is you can ascend the lead line as if it is fixed if you miss the rap station, or need to ascend the rope to get it unstuck. To use the system this way with a 6mm or 7mm cord, use a rap ring or biner to block the knot. If you want to use your tag line for simple double rope raps then use a 8mm rope, then use it through the webbing. I would avoid tech cord for many reasons.

Tie the ropes together with a knot that won't pass through the rap ring or carabiner, whatever you are rapping off of. Rap on the lead line, pull the tag line rope after rapping. Works quite well, just make sure the know will not pass through or get stuck somehow in the rap anchor.

I use a silent partner quite a bit. One thing to consider when soloing is: are you going to carry the rope with you as you climb in a back pack or are you going to stack the rope on the ground/anchor. I tend to use one clove hitch back up at a time, connected to the harness tie in point. The back up knot actually helps the rope feed better if you are not carrying it with you. I don't like to use a lot of back up knots because I don't like all those loops hanging below me. For multi pitch climbs I prefer to carry the rope on my back in a pack unless I am aid climbing then I will just stack it in a rope bag. The rope feeds really well out of the pack, the only problem can be pulling extra rope out to use as a back up knot. Most of the time I don't use a back up knot unless the climbing is difficult. The SP works really well with 9.8-10mm ropes,any bigger and the rope may not feed as smoothly. I like the SP but I don't push my leading ability while using it.

I am going to be around the next few weeks with lots of free time and looking for climbing partners. Weekdays and weekends are open. More interested in doing Alpine Rock and climbing in Squamish, no slogging. I just spent 5 weeks in Yos, so I am fit and was leading up to 5.10c in the valley. I am living out of my truck, so I will be living at either Index, Sqaumish or the Cascades. I don't check this board much anymore and don't have internet access, so the best way to reach me is through my
cell#817-676-4898