Anyone try the Froglube on your gun? I recently heard about it and its suppose to be some organic paste that you heat on to your firearm. Sounds kinda weird and the video and reviews seem to be biased. Anyone try it? If it works, I might have to get some and apply it to my bcg.

Top Notch stuff been using it on all of my customer's guns for over a year now with no issues.

The better method is to apply the paste first then heat it with the blow dryer to melt the Froglube. This way you can turn the firearm around with one hand while running the blow dryer in the other hand to get the Froglube to pour into all the areas and holes.

I don't use the paste but I love it. Smells great. I definitely noticed a difference in how smooth my 1911 was racking compared to when I was using CLP. Cleans great. Don't care what other old farts say calling it "snake oil". I'd rather smell like frog lube than Hoppes.

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WARNING: This post may contain material offensive to those who lack wit, humor, and common sense. Some overly sensitive "men" will be offended.

I use it on everything now, I like to clean with clp, then make sure everything is nice and cleaned off, then apply the frog lube paste. I haven't really tried using it to clean but it keeps everything lubed well. It stays on where you put it too.

Yawn! Another wonder lube. Over the 51 years I have been shooting, loading and just about doing everything firearms related, a new lube or bore cleaner or some other miracle product has come along every few months. All natural this and synthetic that. Greases, oils, and graphitic compounds of great complexity, said to be the cat's meow. There was Ten-X a colliodial graphite suspension popular in the 1970's that was swabbed through bores and allowed to dry, or used as a release agent in bullet molds. Maybe, but the effect was minimal.

On and on it went, Dri-Slide came around sometime in the 1960's and was quite the thing during Viet Nam. The early M-16's had a problem with jamming, and no forward assist in the early iterations, the military issued lubes were part of the problem, so family members sent the G.I.'s care packages of the stuff that worked. http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1247

Then there was the Teflon laced stuff. Teflon is great for thread seal tape, although not as reliable as monkey snot (Rector Seal #5), and it's equally good for frying pans and muffin pans, but has draw backs in firearms if not formulated properly.

Then we discovered molybdenum disulphide, great stuff except that it attracts moisture, becomes acidic, and rusts steel, so it needs a companion rust inhibitor. Used as a bullet coating the stuff builds up in the throat as a hellacious carbon ring that is difficult to remove and left in the bore in humid places causes more pitting than smallpox.

So, some folks use WD-40, the main ingredient of which is plain old Stoddard Solvent, or naphtha. Which means that it would be cheaper to use kerosene as the paraffin content remains after the volatiles evaporate. Petroleum solvents do that, leave behind a residue of lubrication, which is probably why Jewel Triggers recommends dousing their triggers in lighter fluid (Ronsonol for the Zippo lighter not the barbecue stuff).

Now we are paying homage to hexagonal boron nitride (HBN), super slick and pressure resistant, it has become the new darling of the lube and bullet coating fans. I am now experimenting with it as a bullet coating. Naturally some folks decided to mix HBN, Teflon and molybdenum disulphide together in a non-toxic grease carrier. One such product line is found at http://rydol.com/products/firearms/index.htm. I gotta say the little 1 oz jar of the grease I bought from J.P. Enterprises really slicked up my new upper BCG. Stuff makes it feel like a well honed old Mauser bolt, it glides effortlessly with only a miniscule dab. I like stuff you apply with a toothpick, like a jeweler lubing a fine old watch movement. No heating the part, x-rays, vacuum chambers, proton bombardment or incantations necessary, nothing but a toothpick and two fingers. Reminds me of the old motorcycle headlight that instructed me to clean the reflector with a feather - oh yeah, I have a supply of feathers laying around!

So, try all that stuff, it's part of the shooting experience. Just remember that some of those products are repackaged industrial commodities, sold with hype at a great markup. One favorite barrel thread compound I used was discovered to be nothing more than standard food machine grade Teflon grease. Often we buy because of the name, Frog Lube, Hamburger Helper, Loony Tuna, whatever.

You are not a shooter until you have a shelf lined with half used bottles, tubes and aerosol cans of miracle products now passed over for the latest innovation. Just don't get me going on bore solvents.

You can buy all the hip new whizz bang stuff. I've been a machinist tool and die maker for quite some time and in a industry that relies on proper lube we don't get many new fangled products to try as this industry is brutally honest and has a very educated bunch of people doing the work. Trying to pass of some relabeled BS ain't gonna fly.

The biggest thing to come along in the oil industry in general is synthetics.
The biggest thing to come along in the Gun oil industry is the flavor of the week.
When everyone figures out that plain old dino juice is fine and synthetic dino juice is better you can buy that stuff by the gallon for what 8 oz. of some whizz bang gun oil goes for.

From a purely scientific stand point you want three to four properties in your gun oil.
1. Lubrication. all oil does that to varying degrees
2. Anti Oxidants, Rust inhibitors.
3. Resistance to temperature change
4. Water resistance if needed.

That's it. You don't need some covalent bond to the steel or Ionic polarization.
That last one is funny as there was a lube years ago sold as being a polarized lube. ALL petroleum oils are polarized thats one of the reasons they can get as much energy out of oil as they can. But that's another thread.

So back to the original four properties we require for gun oils. Think about it, what oil has great lubrication properties has anti oxidant properties, Resists changes in properties due to temperature changes. Good old Hydraulic oil.
Now Compressor, Turbine oil, and a good grade of Hydraulic oil will all fit the bill perfectly and you can buy a gallon of it for $10 or less. and up to $30 for the High end turbine or compressor oils. So for $30 a gallon your 4 oz bottle of whizz bang gun oil that's 5$ to $7 a bottle would cost you a whopping $.93 a bottle or $7.50 a quart.

Yeah Know what 3 in one oil is made from?? Hydraulic oil with added corrosion inhibitors and some scented oil to make it smell unique Thats it.

Now if you must have the best in water resistance or cold temp operation then you need to look at a synthetic. But this stuff is not as complicated as they try to make it out to be.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

Dick.

The above statement i consider a term of endearment Need prints for your build? Need reference materials for Gunsmithing projects, Click Here
I fear that even though as tough as life has been for me I have only begun to pay for my sins.Don't forget to have your Liberals spayed or neutered !

Yawn! Another wonder lube. Over the 51 years I have been shooting, loading and just about doing everything firearms related, a new lube or bore cleaner or some other miracle product has come along every few months....

When we buy something @ inflated prices (like FL) it's natural for us to make sure we got our money's worth. It would be interesting to see how much people would still like FL if it were $5/bottle instead of $30.

I'm finishing my first bottle, I like that it's non toxic around I clean my guns indoors and have a 2 year old. I'm going to switch to something else when I'm done with it, I'm not really happy with how it does in cold weather.

I have used it on three guns, and my reloading press. Works great. Though as others have noted not much of a copper solvent (though if the metal is already conditioned with it, copper stick a lot less anyways)

I was able to wipe all of the grime of my revolver with just a micro-fiber cloth, no more cleaner, after treating it twice...except the cylinder face. The forcing cone I had to use a little and it came shiny clean. That is my only disappointment, the cylinder face. I had gotten it shiny clean before conditioning the metal twice. And while the froglube, after it sits, will take more off than the other cleaners I have tried, it still has a solid black carbon deposit. Only thing that takes it off is leadaway clothes, but those are expensive.

kscott/wrangler john: How many of the products that you mentioned are not toxic? For many, that is a big selling point of Frog Lube. I know it is not the best lube, the best cleaner, nor the best rust inhibitor. But it meets the standards required for my weapons in the manner I use them without smelling bad or exposing myself or other to toxic chemicals. That is a huge plus for many. Now, what am I going to do with the rest of the gallon of military CLP I've been running for 15 or so years...

kscott/wrangler john: How many of the products that you mentioned are not toxic? For many, that is a big selling point of Frog Lube. I know it is not the best lube, the best cleaner, nor the best rust inhibitor. But it meets the standards required for my weapons in the manner I use them without smelling bad or exposing myself or other to toxic chemicals. That is a huge plus for many. Now, what am I going to do with the rest of the gallon of military CLP I've been running for 15 or so years...

Im sure some of the frog lube haters will buy it from you ...LOL

I love my FL.. I love the smell. I love that I can clean my guns in front of my tv in the living room and it smells like mint. It may not be the best but it sure is right up there with the leaders ... And if times get tough and your hungry you can spread it on your bread and eat it..LOL

The place I have noticed an improvement with frog lube is my carry gun. Between the cotton from underwear and the normal everyday grit and grime I find that my air compressor now cleans the gun in a very short time. Frog Lube doesn't seem to allow the cotton fibers and drust to stick requiring a solvent clean and relube. The build up of fibers and grime in the spring of the magazine is a lot less with frog lube.

There are a lot of truths in new wiz bang products but some hit home runs. Replacing the magneto with points and coil was good. Replacing points and coils with electronic ignition is better.

I find viscosity is a driving factor in my custom guns that have less clearance and tolerances in them is an important factor.

Being old Hoppies number 9 has a world of memories when I smell the magic elixor. My Dad used #9 and when I smell it a lot of good memories come flooding in.

I bought their lube, paste, and applicator kit a little while ago and ran it through my GLOCK. Works no better than Lubriplate for me however, costs much, much more. Also, the wife hates how Ben-Gay smells, so I can't clean my guns in the bedroom without stinking up the place so this stuff is no good for me. If you like the smell and don't wear gloves while you clean then this stuff might be your ticket though. Once I run out I will switch back to lubriplate spray and grease. Lifetime supply for $10 and all their ratings are posted.

Seems to work about as well as any other lube I've tried. The big advantage is that it is nontoxic, biodegradable, etc. For that reason alone, I will continue to use it, even though it is not the cheapest lube out there.

I wish they (froglube) would stop making some of the crazy claims that make it sound like a snake oil. They should just emphasize that is it a good lube, that is nontoxic and smells nice.

I bought their lube, paste, and applicator kit a little while ago and ran it through my GLOCK. Works no better than Lubriplate for me however, costs much, much more. Also, the wife hates how Ben-Gay smells, so I can't clean my guns in the bedroom without stinking up the place so this stuff is no good for me. If you like the smell and don't wear gloves while you clean then this stuff might be your ticket though. Once I run out I will switch back to lubriplate spray and grease. Lifetime supply for $10 and all their ratings are posted.

And you can do this in the bedroom ? ? that crap smells even worse, and dont spil any of that anywhere.....

kscott/wrangler john: How many of the products that you mentioned are not toxic? For many, that is a big selling point of Frog Lube. I know it is not the best lube, the best cleaner, nor the best rust inhibitor. But it meets the standards required for my weapons in the manner I use them without smelling bad or exposing myself or other to toxic chemicals. That is a huge plus for many. Now, what am I going to do with the rest of the gallon of military CLP I've been running for 15 or so years...

Oh lord here we go with the Non toxic deal.
The copper brass and lead your rounds are made of are toxic and can get on your hands then onto something that will eventually end up in your mouth.
I'm sure you run right to the sink to was you hands after you load a magazine??

Toxicity is all based on how you handle it. If you handle it correctly no issues. If you are sloppy and dirty and don't clean up after your self sure.
But how much other crap are we exposed to on a daily basis that is toxic??

I'm not saying lick you fingers when your done but I'm saying we have bigger things to worry about then the minor level of exposure you will reach with a few drops of gun oil here and there.
Used motor oil is worse. Second hand smoke is worse.

I don't know Pain Hydraulic oil has a near zero smell, the Compressor oil I use has no odor unless you shove your head in the bucket.
Pushing it around with my fingers is not an issue as the level of toxicity is very low.
Odor of a Lube should tell you something... That is the high degree of solvent in it and the more solvent the less lube you have.
If you guys would quit trying all these wonder lubes and just stick with what works you wouldn't have the problems you guys are yaking about.
Use a solven to clean, and oil with a antioxidant to lube and preserve. do try to get an oil that will do all three. because it will then do none well.
Oh And I'm not a Frog lube hater. I'm a conventional oil user and believer. Until this stuff has a better track record I'm going to stick with tried and true methods and product.

__________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

Dick.

The above statement i consider a term of endearment Need prints for your build? Need reference materials for Gunsmithing projects, Click Here
I fear that even though as tough as life has been for me I have only begun to pay for my sins.Don't forget to have your Liberals spayed or neutered !

I think froglube, as a lube, is probably not the best. It only really work its best once the gun has warmed up anyway. As a cleaner it is certainly above average, especially after conditioning the metal. Most grime that I had to scrub off before, wipes off before I even use any cleaner. As a rust inhibitor, it works very well. Certainly better than Hoppes, WD-40, Rem Oil, Pro-shooter, and Mobil one (those are the only ones I can compared it too). Based on youtube videos (not the most scientific) it seems Mil-spec is slightly better as a rust inhibitor, at least in abusive conditions.

I do like the fact that it is not harmful to woodstocks, etc. I don't have to be too anal about applying it. Before, my cleaners would occasionally take some varnish if I wasn't careful. Yes, this is just a matter of convenience. And I won't be using it to polish my wood grips/stocks either. But it is nice, especially when you want to clean your gun quickly at the range, rather than let it sit dirty for a long time before you can clean it at home.

As mentioned it isn't the wonder stuff that does everything, not everything can be accomplished by one product, but it does some well. Non toxic being the first plus, I have used it for cleaning, lube, storage (short term), lube after parkerizing, and finally unintentionally as a hand cleaner.

The hand cleaner was a pleasant surprise while breaking down several guns, finished some that I don't use FL on, (Ed's Red and CLP) and hands had grime on them. Grabbed the liquid bottle and it squirted out the top and fell on my hands, the grime came off with a towel.

One thing I have noted that I am not too fond of: In hot weather the liquid is like super thin and hard to use, (see hand cleaner). While in hot weather the paste behaves exactly like the liquid in consistency. Now, as you might expect, in cold weather the liquid is like the paste in consistency and application, (49 degrees in the garage right now and had a hard time using the liquid in a bottle, resorted to putting the dispensing bottle in my pocket to warm it up). Finally worse than that, the cold weather makes the paste like a rock and a bit harder to use.

Overall, as mentioned above, it has its uses even though it is pricey.

And you can do this in the bedroom ? ? that crap smells even worse, and dont spil any of that anywhere.....

I dont think it smells like bengay at all..

Absolutely. I use their grease mainly and it hardly has a smell to it at all. The Froglube had a stronger smell in the bedroom. I've spilled Lubriplate oil on the carpet a couple times. Scrubbed with soap and water, then used an oxi-spray carpet cleaner afterwards. No stains.

I'm finishing my first bottle, I like that it's non toxic around I clean my guns indoors and have a 2 year old. I'm going to switch to something else when I'm done with it, I'm not really happy with how it does in cold weather.

You can buy all the hip new whizz bang stuff. I've been a machinist tool and die maker for quite some time and in a industry that relies on proper lube we don't get many new fangled products to try as this industry is brutally honest and has a very educated bunch of people doing the work. Trying to pass of some relabeled BS ain't gonna fly.

The biggest thing to come along in the oil industry in general is synthetics.
The biggest thing to come along in the Gun oil industry is the flavor of the week.
When everyone figures out that plain old dino juice is fine and synthetic dino juice is better you can buy that stuff by the gallon for what 8 oz. of some whizz bang gun oil goes for.

From a purely scientific stand point you want three to four properties in your gun oil.
1. Lubrication. all oil does that to varying degrees
2. Anti Oxidants, Rust inhibitors.
3. Resistance to temperature change
4. Water resistance if needed.

That's it. You don't need some covalent bond to the steel or Ionic polarization.
That last one is funny as there was a lube years ago sold as being a polarized lube. ALL petroleum oils are polarized thats one of the reasons they can get as much energy out of oil as they can. But that's another thread.

So back to the original four properties we require for gun oils. Think about it, what oil has great lubrication properties has anti oxidant properties, Resists changes in properties due to temperature changes. Good old Hydraulic oil.
Now Compressor, Turbine oil, and a good grade of Hydraulic oil will all fit the bill perfectly and you can buy a gallon of it for $10 or less. and up to $30 for the High end turbine or compressor oils. So for $30 a gallon your 4 oz bottle of whizz bang gun oil that's 5$ to $7 a bottle would cost you a whopping $.93 a bottle or $7.50 a quart.

Yeah Know what 3 in one oil is made from?? Hydraulic oil with added corrosion inhibitors and some scented oil to make it smell unique Thats it.

Now if you must have the best in water resistance or cold temp operation then you need to look at a synthetic. But this stuff is not as complicated as they try to make it out to be.

Depends on your use, I wipe down my shell plates, dies and trimmers with frog lube to keep them from rusting, also have used on on exterior of my guns for the same purpose. Seems to be a good cleaner to use and leave in barrel to prevent rust too. But I certainly would not want to put oil on some of these things. I like that frog lube changes consistency with temperature. In my gun safe the paste does not drain away from my Uppers and BCG's like my break free CLP did (get to the range and oops it's dry)....But I do worry it might not lubricate enough at extremely high temperatures. Seems to work great in my AR's and hand guns, but I still use grease for the M1 internals and other bolt guns I own as well.

FYI to some of you Froblube is not like a grease that you put on and leave on.

When you warm Froglube (which is actually in a special family of waxes with lubricating properties that almost everyone has used in one form or another over the past 50 years) it should melt completely and be rubbed into the metal THEN you are suppose to wipe it all off when it cools. Froglube penetrates into the pores when heated so there is no need to leave any of it on the surface.

As far as the toxic nature of cleaners using a non toxic cleaner over a toxic cleaner is always prefered. That is because no matter how careful you are you will always get exposed to the chemicals. While Lead, Brass and gunpowder do have toxic elements to them gun cleaners can, and do, absorb into your skin then into your blood stream. There is enough people developing liver problems from long term exposure and I know they did not go around drinking the stuff or sticking their noses into the bottle.