Champa, the empire formerly covering Central Vietnam, is long gone. But the Cham people aren’t. In search of Cham cuisine, Ed Weinberg heads to a village outside of Phan Rang and samples 12 courses of the real thing

While walking along Hang Dao on our way to exploring the city, my Scottish friend — who had been in Hanoi for only a few weeks — was overcome with curiosity when she saw a few peddlers selling small rice balls in their baskets.