I'm hoping to build a bag around a few trusted molds. I'll be posting updates on the bag and what I feel like I am missing and I would love to have suggestions along the way. My furthest distance is near 380', and controlled distance around 325' comfortably. Oh, and I have a Fade Crunch box. 12 discs + 2 putters is my goal. Any more, and I feel like I would be in over my head.

Distance - Goal: 1 mold, 2-3 discs. When headwinds are an issue, I'm not shooting for max D, so these molds don't need to fight a lot of wind. Right now I have both Swords and Valks here. I'll probably keep the Sword around for good measure, but my focus is on Valks at this point. I'm hoping to add a few more to the mix and get a rotation once they start to turn more.

Fairway - Goal: 1-2 molds, 3-4 discs. These discs need to fly on any given line and be trustworthy. I have an 11x Champ TB that tracks to the right before a late fade kicks in, which has really turned me on to the idea of a rotation of Teebirds in different levels of stability. They are much more in my power range than S/C PD's and Star/Champ Eagle's. The only problem here is that I might end up with just 1 mold, and I wonder if I am limiting myself too much. And my FD and 11x TB keep fighting for the same spot. So far, my FD hasn't impressed me because it seems too stable. Oh, and I am really interested in trying an MVP Volt once it gets released.

Midrange - Goal: 2 molds, 4 discs. This, and my fairway drivers, is where I need the most help. I've recently discovered the Warship, and love it for a stable mid. It can carry some serious distance. The only problem is that it really doesn't work if I am going to slim down to 2 molds here. I need something that can handle headwinds better, and something that will flip a lot more. I have a Pain for a more stable compliment, and it works well, but doesn't handle headwinds as well as a Gator, which is what I used to throw in this spot. I also throw D MD2's for understable shots, and they are beautiful! I would love to stick with them, assuming they will come into production soon (fingers crossed). Any suggestions here? I'm wide open for ideas...even if it is "get a rotation of DX Rocs and keep the Gator". On the sidelines - a seasoned opaque 178 C MD2, beefy 175 Champ Gator, and a 174 Warship (flies the same as the other).

Putters - Goal: 2 molds, 3 discs. I've been considering picking up an Anode for a driving putter once they are released in Neutron plastic. I also am waiting for P2's to be released in the new P-line. Once those come into production, I'm thinking Anode, P P2, D P2. Any reason this wouldn't work? Right now I have 2 putters, with an SS Magic in there as somewhat of a placeholder until I can get my hands on a P P2 and/or N Anode.

170 D P2 - seasoned170 SS Magic - seasoned

Last edited by Fightingthetide on Wed Aug 08, 2012 4:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I had a pretty good round today and really liked what I have in this bag. I'm still lacking a truly understable driver. If I can pick up a few DX Teebirds, I'll start a rotation. In the mean time, my Star Valks hold anny's to the ground, as does my beat 11x Teebird.

I took the Sword out. In the field, I saw no distinct advantage over Valks (at this point). Switched Pain/Warship for Gator/MD2. I like it a lot...except I lost my favorite C MD2. And I also ordered three DX Rocs this morning as somewhat of a reaction to the fact that good C MD2's are hard to find. Here's hoping that one million people who love Rocs aren't wrong. I'll keep D MD2's in the bag until Rocs start to flip.

That would leave me with:Firebird - Valk - Teebird - Gator - Roc - P2

I didn't mean to head this direction, but I've (almost) ended up with a classic Innova bag.

Is there a general rule of thumb with distance between Teebirds and Valks? They both fly about the same distance for me (350'-375'), but on different lines.

Picked up a few more used Teebirds and Valks today. Considering a faster, understable mold for max D when placement isn't a concern. Valks are pretty easy to place if the fairway isn't narrow. Any suggestions? Valks are getting out to ~375' at the most.

Considering the same D TB vs Valk maybe range shouldn't be the deciding factor. The line should decide. For me the Valk is longer. Nose angle? Maybe a Vulcan or Mamba or if they are too fllippy Astra or light Blizzards? Wraith at 130s is pretty understable. Katana at 150 too.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

JR wrote:Considering the same D TB vs Valk maybe range shouldn't be the deciding factor. The line should decide. For me the Valk is longer. Nose angle? Maybe a Vulcan or Mamba or if they are too fllippy Astra or light Blizzards? Wraith at 130s is pretty understable. Katana at 150 too.

I might revisit the Archon. On a slight downhill (maybe 15' down) with a tailwind, I got my 168 Star Valk out to ~415'. If I remember right, Archons have a flight similar to Valks. Anything faster, and I feel like the wide rim would kill the distance for me.

But then again, that would be killer overlap. I'll keep the Sword around and hope it loses some stability. That should work well as a more stable Valk compliment in mild headwinds...which is why I got it anyway.

With 3 DX Rocs on their way, and one seasoned KC in already, all I'm really looking forward to is the release of KC P2's.

-Rocs are in, and I love them. I can get them to around 300', but on golf lines around 250'+.-Valks and Sword keep fighting for the same spot. Both go 350'+, the Sword a touch longer and straighter, but I have more Valks. I might try a TP Sword.-Teebirds are what I've been looking for. PD's were too stable for me. They are hitting up to 350' on golf lines.-Still in need of an understable fairway driver. I might revisit Pro Leopards. Stars are too stable.-I need another putter. I'm holding out for P P2's to be released. My D P2 is great, but I imagine it will be hard to replace. Considering Yeti's, Ions, or Anodes. Maybe Yeti's for putt/approach and Anodes for drives?

Is there too little of a gap between my Rocs and drivers? I don't throw Rocs that long unless I have an unlimited ceiling.

Four finger power grip with harder squeeze than for a hyzer or a flat throw should make an annied Leopard hold to the ground at drive distances. Even in Star for your power. At shorter ranges a mid will do and hold the anny to the ground. I'd save money and use that Leo.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

LYang - I've heard all the recent runs of DX Teebirds are soft, which isn't what I want. If I can come across some stiff, grippy DX TB's I'll definitely pick them up and beat them in to the understable slot. Also, I lost my C MD2...

JR - I actually dont have a Leo any more. I have an FD, but it does not fly understable. Should I stick to my typical driver weight (168-170), or go lower for a Star Leo? And is that a recommendation to NOT pick up a Pro Leo?

I do have a white 175 dx TB that I used a year or so ago to see if I liked the disc. I think it's beat where there is a little turn. It should also be firm and grippy but but not totally sure... have to check when I get a chance. I only have one though. Dunno if you want multiples.

To those who may know the answer to this - DX Teebird vs. Star Leopard. Assuming both are beat in and have lost stability (Teebird more-so than Leopard) to where both need initial hyzer to keep from turning too far to the right, which one fades less? Glides more? Needs more power?

Leo rules for understable with less fade, flexing back and power requirement and more fade. Unfortunately Stars and Pros vary some but Pros grip better so they are good for annies because it need more grip power to not slip out. Which can be counter productive if you miss left underpowered and the disc flexes and fades to the left when you wanna go right... For strictly right turns or giving more initial hyzer to straight flight the Pro is superior because it is less HSS and has a tackier feel. I recommend a 170 Pro Leopard.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

Ion is trickier to drive with than the Anode which is a little better flyer than the P2 but the difference is small. Nobody can tell you what to use because only you see if they work and what the pros and the cons are for you. The P2 is so good that it might well work for you or even be the best driving putter for you who knows? You are in big spending mode maybe you should use what you have now more to get to know the discs intimately to see what gripes you have with them if any and in which conditions. Then we might have enough data to suggest something else if needed. D P2 is ok driver in every category except long term wear in the trees and around rocks but being cheap it still might be the cheapest solution. So if the one you have now is in good condition i'd throw it more and not buy anything more. I'm concerned that the speed at which you switch discs doesn't give you a full idea about what the discs can do so switching will be an uninformed decison by you into another unknown quantity. Shot in the dark ain't easy to get right. Even with proven good discs because most have some caveats and it's a matter of finding the best balance of pros and cons for you or use two or more different ones to get the best of each world. What the best parts are you have to find out for yourself because we don't have your body, mind, courses, preferences and outside circumstances like weather. Only you can find out the answers to those. So you can't rely too much on others for information. What we can help with is to compare discs properties and ease of use for many different circumstances.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.