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Restaurant Review: Okra's Stellar Sushi in Beijing

At Okra, a Japanese Restaurant Housed in a Former Meat Factory, Expect Sublime Sushi and Unforgettable Side Dishes—but No Miso Soup

By

Tini Tran

May 22, 2014 5:45 a.m. ET

BEIJING—At Okra, a sushi restaurant housed in a former meat factory, Max Levy serves traditional Japanese dishes—but only if they meet his exacting standards. For instance, guests hungry for miso soup will be disappointed: The chef says he couldn't find the quality ingredients required in China, so he decided not to serve it at all.

"There's no concessions on the menu. No real compromises," said Mr. Levy, who formerly helmed Bei, the Asian fusion restaurant at Beijing's Opposite House hotel. That uncompromising...