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Most of the time when you start having dirty dishes post wash there is either an internal blocked screen under the lower wash arm tower or a problem with the drain. The drain problem shows up mostly inside the Air-Gap cap or at the garbage disposal / sink port connection. Pull the cap / cover off of the Air-Gap and then NOTE the installed position of the inner cap. Unscrew the cap nut and lift the cap off of the Air-Gap assembly. Food particles block the drain inside the cap. You should see a blockage as soon as you lift the cap or the particulate falls away as you lift the cap. Look into the Air-Gap with a flash light and clear any debris. Re-install all Air-Gap parts after cleaning. Make sure to pull the hose off of the garbage disposal port and clean the port.

Add water via cycle fill and then test the drain cycle. The dishwasher should be empty in less than 90 seconds. After 90 seconds interrupt the drain cycle. There should NOT be standing water in the dishwasher sump. If you have standing water in the sump after 90 seconds you will have to remove the lower wash arm and tower to clean the screen or drain holes in the tower. (depending on modeL) Another thing to pay attention to is exactly HOW the lower wash arm is installed on the tower. Some of the 2 part lower wash arms can be a nightmare to re-assemble. When in doubt take pictures first.... (Lesson learned the hard way too many times when a 30 minute job goes in to the 2nd hour on my time!) Just make sure you do NOT remove any motor pump mounting hardware where it mates to the tub base. Even loosening a motor pump bolt or screw can cause a leak after your done.

While the lower wash arm is removed make sure that you inspect and clean the inside of the wash arm. Often food particles can block the water spray holes in the wash arm.

IF you have a direct / no Air-Gap sink connection then pull off the hose at the sink connection and clear the connection hole of any debris. I really think that your have a drain problem vs a motor pump issue. It is possible that there is an impeller issue but at this point I doubt it.

Should you have to gain access to the internal screen of the dishwasher you will need to view this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=28553&diagram_id=28395680#d28395680Items I, 2, 3, 4, and 5 of the link will need to be removed then inspect the screen for signs of debris build up. Again.. lets hope it does not get to the parts removal point. IF you do have to tear into the sump it is best to go down to the chopper place (Item 20 of link) and make sure the holes are not clogged. What ever happens unless your going to replace the impeller do not remove it or any seals. If you do you have a 50 - 50 chance of having a leak straight into the motor. Once removed it is best to replace both of the stem seals (Items 23 and 24).

One last thing to look for is clogged upper spray arm water holes. Just inspect for signs of blockage. Only remove it if you note food particulate in the holes. I am speaking from many many years of in home appliance repair experience. The steps above should stop the dirty post wash dishes. If you still have the same issues after checking the above, please respond and I will help you. Thanks for choosing FixYa, Kelly

MJD2000AAW and MJD3000AAW have problems with the main control panel PCB. This manifests is lots of differing symptoms: Cycle won't complete; won't pump out; no heating works on some cycles then fails; no dispensing cleaner; runs thru cycle but does nothing except fill in water; code E3......etc

Not all these happen at the same time and the faults can be intermittent and varied.

It is not the drain because if you start a new cycle the 1st thing it does is pump out any water ok. So the pump works and so the drain is ok.

It is the control PCB ~ $200 assy. This has failed twice on my Maytag MJD2000AAW with same symptoms. Once replaced by service man once by me. It aoppears to be the micro controller not giving the correct signals at the correct time sequence.

Both times replacing PCB assy fixed problems ~2 years then fails....never never buy Maytag again because of this. Obviously the factory knows of this issue.

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Related Questions:

HiThis issue usually occurs due
to kinked drain pipe, clogged drain filter or drain pump. First make sure that
the drain is not clogged and remove clogs if present. If no visible lint is
present then remove the lower front access panel to check the drain filter and
drain pump for any clogs, you'll need to clean the drain filter and drain pump
completely. Also, check for any food pieces stuck near the pump impeller &
clean the chopper assembly. Please note that dishwashers don't drain out the
complete water such that heating element doesn't overheat. Hope this helps...
Please post back for any further assistance.Daniel

It may be an
issue with heater circuit, door switch or wash pump, please reset the power to
the dishwasher. After, 5 minutes check if you are still getting the same error.
If yes, then it is a water heating fault. To resolve this error try pressing
this reset sequence-- Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or High Temp - Air
Dry - High Temp - Air Dry or Hi Temp Scrub, energy saver dry, Hi Temp Scrub,
energy saver dry. Now let the unit run for 2-3 minutes and then you press
the Cancel/Drain button and allow it to completely drain and reset. If this
doesn't work then it's an issue with the wash pump not pumping the water past
the heater efficiently or due to lack of water to heat. Please make sure that
heater is not open circuited and is heating the water efficiently. You'll have
to check the heater using a multimeter; the meter should read between 3000 to
3300 ohms (Use multimeter on Rx1 ohm setting). If heater is fine then make sure
water pressure is optimum and fill valve is working fine. Hope this helps...
Please post back if you need more information.

Hi, the E4 error means the water heater element does not work properly or the filter mesh is blocked. Most likely the heating element burned out/thermal fuse or Clean the filter mesh to resolve the problem.

Most of the time when you start having dirty dishes post wash there is either an internal blocked screen under the lower wash arm tower or a problem with the drain. The drain problem shows up mostly inside the Air-Gap cap or at the garbage disposal / sink port connection. Pull the cap / cover off of the Air-Gap and then NOTE the installed position of the inner cap. Unscrew the cap nut and lift the cap off of the Air-Gap assembly. Food particles block the drain inside the cap. You should see a blockage as soon as you lift the cap or the particulate falls away as you lift the cap. Look into the Air-Gap with a flash light and clear any debris. Re-install all Air-Gap parts after cleaning. Make sure to pull the hose off of the garbage disposal port and clean the port.

Add water via cycle fill and then test the drain cycle. The dishwasher should be empty in less than 90 seconds. After 90 seconds interrupt the drain cycle. There should NOT be standing water in the dishwasher sump. If you have standing water in the sump after 90 seconds you will have to remove the lower wash arm and tower to clean the screen or drain holes in the tower. (depending on modeL) Another thing to pay attention to is exactly HOW the lower wash arm is installed on the tower. Some of the 2 part lower wash arms can be a nightmare to re-assemble. When in doubt take pictures first.... (Lesson learned the hard way too many times when a 30 minute job goes in to the 2nd hour on my time!) Just make sure you do NOT remove any motor pump mounting hardware where it mates to the tub base. Even loosening a motor pump bolt or screw can cause a leak after your done.

While the lower wash arm is removed make sure that you inspect and clean the inside of the wash arm. Often food particles can block the water spray holes in the wash arm.

IF you have a direct / no Air-Gap sink connection then pull off the hose at the sink connection and clear the connection hole of any debris. I really think that your have a drain problem vs a motor pump issue. It is possible that there is an impeller issue but at this point I doubt it.

Should you have to gain access to the internal screen of the dishwasher you will need to view this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=28553&diagram_id=28395680#d28395680Items I, 2, 3, 4, and 5 of the link will need to be removed then inspect the screen for signs of debris build up. Again.. lets hope it does not get to the parts removal point. IF you do have to tear into the sump it is best to go down to the chopper place (Item 20 of link) and make sure the holes are not clogged. What ever happens unless your going to replace the impeller do not remove it or any seals. If you do you have a 50 - 50 chance of having a leak straight into the motor. Once removed it is best to replace both of the stem seals (Items 23 and 24).

One last thing to look for is clogged upper spray arm water holes. Just inspect for signs of blockage. Only remove it if you note food particulate in the holes. I am speaking from many many years of in home appliance repair experience. The steps above should stop the dirty post wash dishes. If you still have the same issues after checking the above, please respond and I will help you. Thanks for choosing FixYa, Kelly

I have the same problem but now on all cycles - to get it off normal and try the other ones, open the door, hold down the 'normal' button for three seconds, and then at least try the other settings temporarily.