Description

Just great fun and fine rock!

P1. 80, 5.11- Start up a short right facing corner to a stance just below the first bolt. A tricky step off the stance gains an undercling to layback crack up to another stance. From this stance follow bolts past a small overlap up a low angle but extremely thin face/slab ending in a big solution pocket at chains.I found a small mono pocket on the upper face, memorable!

P2. 90, 5.10+ From the anchor climb up an easy low angle slab past more solution pockets to the base of a short wall with a few bolts. After pulling over the wall continue up another 40 feet of unprotected 5.0 slab to a blueberry ledge and chains.

Both pitches can be linked with minimal rope drag. Walk off or make two raps with a 60m rope.

Location

Below and south of The Beach. Approaching from the base several hundred feet right South America Flake are four bolted routes on a steep face this is the first one. It starts about ten feet left of "Sex On The Beach"