Pagine

mercoledì 3 settembre 2014

August is
now behind us and the first days of September are always exciting because of the
first moments of Autumn. My favorite seasons are still quite distant, but the
sultriness of the planes is making more and more space to a clear sky and fresh
days. The desire to come back bouldering is actually lofty, but the wrist is
not totally ready yet for every move or every hold and I think I should give to
it more time to recover.

In fact, for
the second week in a row, I postpone the beginning of a training program; the
feelings are not so bad, but at the same time I am not feeling sure and
positive at 100%. I opted to take another week of rest, to go climbing other three
or four days, to make something soft at the fingerboard and to see how the
issue will roll. This plan sounds to be the best for me since I should avoid
the rush and leave the mind to take more and more confidence to get in shape
again. Moreover, this week I should have the outcomes of the second RMI so I
will understand better how the injury has reacted to the first days of
climbing. I have got nine days of bouldering since I restarted climbing (12th
of August) and the wrist didn't give me big troubles except the last Friday
when I perceived a bit of painful. So, I think that the problem is not
acquitted, but it is going better than this spring or summer.

As I said,
the last three weeks have been devoted to get confidence in climbing gesture. I
mainly went to Champorcher, an area where I climbed many problems and I knew
them pretty well. I repeated some moderates lines I put up during these years
and the feelings with the rock is growing up time after time. I started to work
a connection which links two problems: "Under the carpet" and
"Q*bert". The middle section is awful, since it passes through some bad
jugs, but the traverse itself results funny for the good moves it offers.
Despite I knew that I wasn't under the best line, the challenge for the mind
and the body was quite stimulant and I was curious to see how the process would
have developed. I felt I should have fought to win it and I felt that I could
climb hard since the holds weren't painful. After three sessions, two of which
got to the end fast cause of skin
troubles, I was able to send it. The first "hard" test after the
resting period had been approved.

The day
after I went with a couple of friends to Noasca (Valle dell'Orco), to see a
place that I wanted to check since few months. I knew that Bernd Zangerl put up
different problems in this valley and many of them looked to be good. As I
imaged, the lines I watched on the video are really impressive and even if the
rock is not my favorite, the shapes are really stunning. Especially two of
them, "self aperto" and "El Salvador", take delight of a
remarkable beauty. Unfortunately, the combo between my worst skin ever and the
sharp rock let me climb just half an hour; after this, every hold I grabbed
became moist and every effortseemed to be vain. I took profit by the drawback
to make a check in a stony chaos up to the road, where I supposed to discover
some virgin lines. Fortunately, I found some of the things I hoped to see and a
bunch of boulders seems to be worthy and good. The most impressive one deals of
a big diamond which quickly got into the list of the lines I want to brush.

The
week later I decided to come back with my dad, hoping in a better skin. I tried
the sit start version of "Temenoi" 8A/+, which is characterized by a
hard heel hook intro and a cool tensioning climbing at the end. Surprisingly I
got the first move quickly and I found myself in the upper section before the
top. There, I felt my hands soaked again, I grabbed every holds wrongly and I
missed the ascent. I was frustrated by the skin issue which was continuing to
give me problems, but on the other side I thought about the normality of it,
due to many days without rock. Thanks to some toe hooks and a comfortable
position I found, I was able to take chalk in the middle and accordingly I had
dry hands in the top sequence. This thing has been crucial to complete the line
and to get another dose of happiness at the top.

In the
afternoon I went up to the chaos to brush the big diamond I checked the
previous time. I was quite stoked by the thing that came out. The line looked
to be amazing and gorgeous as I hoped.
The main line I wanted to brush is still waiting, since it is quite hard to
reach the hold, even with a rope. While the other two ones are now chalked and
I hope to come back soon to make a good landing and to attempt them seriously.

Always
thinking about some projects, last week I was finally able to brush another
line I saw last May in Champorcher, which I never started to clean since I
thought that was necessary to cut two branches of a big tree. I was a bit
disappointed by this fact, since I really care about the trees and I think they
have the priority on the climbers. Fortunately, while I was dropping down with
the rope, I discovered that the tree wasn't a problem and there was enough space
to climb the roof avoiding to remove the branches. I started to be actually
fascinated by the big line which was taking shape while I was brushing. Four
hours were sufficient just to get ready the upper part, while I had to wait the
day after to clean up the bottom sequence, which looked to be tricky, hard and
physical. Ricky came up that day as well. Together we arranged the lower roof, the
starting stone and we began to try it. We weren't close to understand the beta,
but if the first holds didn't break I am positive about the possibilities to
climb the imposing rig.