MEASUREMENTS AFTER BLOCKING: Bust—35½ inches. Width across back at underarm—17 inches. Width across back at shoulder—13½ inches. Width across each front at underarm—9½ inches. Length from underarm to lower edge—11 inches. Length of sleeve, underarm seam—4½ inches. Width of sleeve at underarm—13 inches.

GAUGE: 6 sts make 1 inch: 8 rows make 1 inch (No. 4 needles).

BACK … With No. 2 needles cast on 102 sts and work 4 inches in ribbing of k 2, p 2. Change to No. 4 needles and continue in ribbing, increasing 1 st at both ends of next row and every 6th row thereafter until there are 114 sts. Work straight until piece measures 11 inches.

TO SHAPE ARMHOLES: Bind off 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows and 2 sts at beginning of following 4 rows. Dec. 1 st at end of each row until 86 sts remain. Work straight until armholes measure 6½ inches. To shape shoulders, bind off 4 sts at beginning of each row 6 times. Next row: Bind off 4 sts, work in pattern across next 18 sts, bind off 18 sts (neck shaping), work in pattern across remaining 22 sts. Work over these 22 sts, binding off 4 sts at shoulder edge every other row 3 times and 5 sts at neck edge every other row twice. Work opposite side to correspond.

RIGHT FRONT … With No. 2 needles cast on 64 sts. 1st row: (K 2, p 2) 12 times, k 2, (p 1, k 1) 7 times—front border. 2nd row: (P 1, k 1) 7 times, (p 2, k 2) 12 times, p 2. Repeat these 2 rows alternately, making a buttonhole 5 sts in from front edge after the 1st inch and every 2¼ inches thereafter until 5 in all are made—to make a buttonhole, on one row bind off 4 sts; on next row cast on 4 sts to replace those bound off—but, when piece measures 4 inches, change to No. 4 needles and inc. 1 st at underarm edge on next row and every 6th row until there are 70 sts. Work straight until piece measures 10½ inches. Then dec. 1 st just inside 14 sts of front border on next row and every 4th row 18 times in all but, when piece measures 11½ inches, shape armhole by binding off 4 sts at underarm edge. Then dec. 1 st at armhole edge every other row 10 times in all. Work armhole edge straight until piece measures 7 inches from 1st row of armhole shaping (38 sts remain). Keeping front edge straight, shape shoulder by binding off 4 sts at armhole edge every other row 6 times. Continue in k 1, p 1, pattern over remaining 14 sts for 2½ inches (half of back neck band). Bind off.

LEFT FRONT … Work as for Right Front, reversing shapings and omitting buttonholes. Sew up shoulder seams, matching ribs. Sew back neck bands in place, seaming short ends. Sew up underarm seams. Sew on buttons.

SLEEVES … With No. 2 needles cast on 74 sts and work 1½ inches in ribbing of k 2, p 2, increasing 1 st in each p-rib on last row (92 sts). Change to No. 4 needles and work in ribbing of k 2, p 3, increasing 1 st at end of each row until there are 102 sts. Work straight until piece measures 4½ inches. Bind off 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Dec. 1 st at end of each row until 90 sts remain. Work straight until piece measures 10 inches in all. Then bind off 4 sts at beginning of each row until 42 sts remain. Bind off. To make cartridge pleats, find center k-rib on right side of sleeve. Starting at bound-off sts, sew k-rib together for 2 inches, sewing along adjoining p sts. Make 6 more pleats on either side of center pleat (13 pleats in all). Sew up sleeve seams and sew in sleeves. Pin out to measurements and press through damp cloth. Sew in shoulder pads.