12 December 2013

Dome-shaped golden panettone is that traditional spongey, fruit-studded, sweet Christmas bread that is to an Italian Christmas what fruitcake is to other parts of the world. It may be even more welcome than its much maligned counterpart and in my experience more welcome when gifted. Lavish with golden raisins, citrus peel, eggs and butter, panettone epitomizes the richness and generosity of the season. Panettone originated in Milan, in the north of Italy, but has spread all over the country and around the world.I grew up with fruitcake, and in the old British tradition fruitcake even presented itself at my wedding, but, living in the melting pot of cultures we call Canada I eagerly adopt other traditions. During the holidays, you can't come or go from an Italian home without receiving or giving a panettone.

For those of you who read these pages you will know that in the fall of last year I had an extended stay in Italy. I was sad to leave but especially sad to leave just as the country started to drape itself in holiday finery. How I would have loved to roam the streets of Naples in search of the perfect presepe or taste "the best" panettone which in Italy often holds a DOP status, an official Protected Designation of Origin stamp, which certifies its quality and provenance. After all there is panettone and there is panettone! Once you've tasted a slice of truly wonderful handmade panettone which is slowly-leavened, delicately flavoured and fluffy-as-a-pillow, then and only then, will you know what all the fuss is about.Someday I hope to take the time to make my own which involves having panettone paper crowns and hanging it suspended upside down, but, until then our local Italian grocer has some delicious varieties. This may not be Italy but our local Italians want the best available.

Whether you make your own or have store-bought you may inevitably end up with leftovers. If you are like me you may even buy extra just so that you will always have leftovers and hope that every Italian friend will gift you with a panettone. Over the holidays I like to make panettone bread pudding or perhaps French toast, but several years ago I watched Jamie Oliver create a stunning dessert from leftover panettone and fruit that has cemented itself in my holiday traditions. Just add some vin santo (an Italian dessert wine) and you will have a dessert that wows your guests with so little effort you won't feel you deserve all the compliments...but accept them anyway!

Vin santo ('Holy Wine') is the name given to the amber-hued dessert wine traditionally from central Italy. There are similar wines made in other Italian wine regions, and the vinsanto I have had on Santorini in Greece is almost identical in both name and style, but the Tuscan hills retain a long-standing connection with these golden, intensely flavoured wines. These "straw wines" are so named because they are traditionally made from grapes left to dry out on straw mats after harvest. The mats are placed in the warmest, driest part of the home (or winery) so the grapes gradually desiccate over the winter. Each drop of wine would be precious!

A typical vin santo offers aromas of apricots and orange blossom, followed by a caramel, nut and raisin-rich palate with a hint of honey and cream on the finish. What could be more perfect for this decadent dessert bombe. Of course if it is not available you could use a late harvest or even an ice wine available here in Canada. You can read about its very different origins in this post here.

Whatever you do make this dessert part of your tradition! Bring a piece of Italy home, but twist it into something that your guests will talk about for years to come.

**Chocolate Panettone Bombe**

by Jamie Oliver

2 x 500ml tubs of good-quality vanilla ice cream or gelato1 x 1kg panettone125ml Vin Santo3 heaping tablespoons of jam25g shelled pistachios, crushed75g of dried sour cherries, roughly chopped (or canned or fresh cherries)40g glacé clementines (or other glacé fruit), thinly sliced200g good-quality dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), broken into pieces1 clementine orange, zestedWhipping cream, to serve Equipment: 2 litre pudding bowl, some plastic wrap , a saucepan and a plate to sit on top of the saucepan. Take the ice-cream out of the freezer so it can soften a little while you get things ready. Line the pudding bowl with 3 layers of plastic wrap. Using a serrated knife, slice four 2cm-thick slices from the panettone, and then cut these slices in half. Line the pudding bowl with 6 of the slices of panettone in a single layer around the bowl, pushing them down so they don’t overlap. As the slices meet in the centre don't be afraid to remove some of thickness of the panettone by pinching it out. Drizzle a little of the Vin Santo over the bread. Place three tablespoons of your chosen jam in a cup with a drop of hot water, and brush the jam over the panettone inside the bowl. Add 1 tub of ice-cream to the bowl, spreading it around to form a thick layer in the bottom of the pudding bowl. Sprinkle in the pistachios, cherries, and fruit. Add the other tub of ice-cream to the pudding bowl to form a last layer. You may need to work quickly so the ice-cream doesn’t melt. Take the remaining slices of panettone and place them on top of the ice-cream to form a lid. Drizzle more Vin Santo over the top, and then cover the bowl tightly with cling film. Press a plate down on top of the panettone and then place the bowl in the freezer – it’s best if you can leave it overnight. When you’re ready to serve, put the broken chocolate pieces in a bowl and set it on top of a saucepan of simmering water, on a really low heat. Just make sure that the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Leave the chocolate to melt while you unwrap the panettone bombe and carefully turn it out onto a serving dish. When the chocolate has melted, stir the zest of the clementine in and spoon the sauce over the top of the up-turned panettone bombe. Slice into generous wedges, and add some whipped cream to each portion to serve.

Merry Christmas! Enjoy!

You are reading this post on More Than Burnt Toast at http://morethanburnttoast.blogspot.com. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to the author/owner of More Than Burnt Toast. All rights reserved by Valerie Harrison.

I adore pannetone and made it when I was in TN. I was so thrilled with the result that I walked one down to my neighbour. The next day it was hard as a rock. How embarrassing. It is truly a talent to make a good pannetone. As you, I am happy with what comes to our Italian grocers here.

Panettone is a long process, so most people do buy it. I would love to learn how to make it because even though I love the sweet bread, I don't like the dried and candied fruits that go into it. I'd rather have it plain or maybe with nuts or chocolate (or nuts and chocolate). I'll have to make it myself and add what I like. Or else I could mix a store bought with chocolate (yes) ice cream (of course) and vinsanto (YAY) and I'm sure the fruit would offend me less. ;-)

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My blog More Than Burnt Toast has been my passion for almost 12 years and has evolved with me over time as I have gained confidence in the kitchen. Follow my travels through Italy and Greece one recipe at a time, upcoming cooking classes at local Okanagan wineries and restaurants, as well as daily experimentation in my own kitchen. Every day we should be excited about what we are eating even if it just means making use of a wonderful find at our local farmers market. I look forward to getting to know you.