As of July 14, 2015, these areas are closed to climbing until further notice:

Fairview Dome West Face – All routes between and including "Heart of Stone" to "Lucky Streaks" are closed. All other routes remain open. The Fairview Dome closure will remain in effect until August 15, 2015, or until further notice. The pair at Fairview Dome is nesting one month behind the typical nesting period.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

The crux is right of the belay. Climb the leaning crack to a fixed nut. At the crack disappears, a foothold appears on the right. Then reach far right for a good hand jam (11a). Easier if tall. Then climb thin hands to the top (10b).

There is bad potential for falling on your belayer. It may be a good idea to move the belay to the left.

Location

The climb starts at the top of Butterballs/Wheat Thin. You can do Waverly/Butterballs/Butterfingers as Nabisco (10c/11c/11a), or Beverly's/Wheat Thin/Butterfingers as Nabisco Light (10a/10c/11a).

The crux (first 15+ feet off the belay) was hard, but it is possible to set some good gear up high off the belay stance. Placing gear after that is a challenge until you get to a 5.10 roof with a good finger lock rest, then more 5.10 climbing to the top.