Wednesday, 12 September 2012

AT first glance, Bangalore’s ANTS store seems like a mere crafts
outlet. It offers cane-handled Tangkhul Naga black pottery and Manipuri kauna
reed mats, traditional dai knives in a sheath, elegant Bodo weave wraparound
skirts, even coral-turquoise jewellery. But beyond its sunny café, where conversation
flows easy over cake and cappuccino, lies an invisible but potent mission. For
this outlet in upmarket Indiranagar, is more about people than products.

Its intent? To create illuminated
entry points for mainstream India
into the Seven Sisters and One Brother (Sikkim) states of the
often-misinterpreted, little-visited northeast.

This was apparent at its recent
festivals of Meitei and Tangkhul Naga food, celebrating the universal language
of food. Sourcing ingredients like fermented bamboo and delectable shelled
snails from Manipur, the former was cooked over two days by Meitei students and
IT professionals. Over 2000 of them live in the IT hub. Biting into Paknam, a savoury
pancake of steamed herbs, spices, dry fish and gram flour, we mull over how
little Bangalore
knows of the Meitei.

The million-strong Meitei are the
major ethnic group of Manipur, whose seven clans trace their written history
back to 33 AD. Such inputs catapult us beyond familiar connects, such as
Manipuri dance, director Ratan Thiyam’s famed Chorus Repertory Theatre, and the
iron-willed dissident Irom Sharmila.

Tasting Shingju salad of cabbage,
raw papaya and fermented fish, my thoughts race to a March 2010 group exploration
of Assam,
Meghalaya and Arunachal Pradesh. The journey left us full of questions:

When the biodiversity-rich Aruchanal
mountains are latent with tourist promise, why is there but a single infrequent
helicopter flight to Tawang from Guwahati? Why are Assamese highways the only
connections between eastern and western Arunachal? Why are Indian soldiers (not
police) allowed to beat up handcuffed suspects in a public jeep in daylight in Assam? The
answers are hardly as sweet as the kheer of purple-black rice, grown only in
Manipur.

Issues apart, our trip left us
memories to cherish. Of women weavers at traditional looms under their chang
ghar on stilts on Assam’s
Majuli island. Of a Khasi church service dedicated to us in friendly Mawlynnong
in Meghalaya. Of the grandeur of Tawang monastery against the snow-steepled Himalayas. The journey only whetted our appetite for
Manipur, Nagaland, Tripura, Mizoram and Sikkim.

Such positive stories from the
northeast are the foci of the ANTS store, committed to Fairtrade and Craftmark
values. Trichao Thomas, a Naga from the Pomai tribe of Manipur, coordinates its
programme to ‘northeastize the mainstream.’ How? Through initiatives like food
festivals, readings from ‘Neti Neti,’ a novel by Shillong-born Anjum Hasan,
even a mini Naga cultural festival. Unfortunately, historian Ramachandra Guha’s
talk on the Naga peace process was cancelled due to the July 2008 Bangalore blasts.

ANTS, launched in December 2007, is
an offshoot of the Action Northeast Trust (www.theant.org).
Like her counterparts on Majuli, this store showcases weaves by Bodo women like
Bongaigoan’s Sheena Basumatary, 38.

In 2002, design student Smitha
Murthy from Bangalore’s
Srishti school asked Sheena and four others to create samples of traditional
motifs as part of a ‘Weaving Peace’ project. Sheena agreed because her husband,
a driver, did not earn enough to support their three children.

Three years later, Sheena joined Aagor
Dagra Afad, registered to empower Bodo woman weavers. Today, as its assistant
managing trustee, she guides 200 others. And Smitha, who reinterprets Bodo weaves
as sleek cutaway blouses in sync with urban India, is both ANTS designer and an
Aagor trustee. Over the past nine years, Aagor has distributed Rs. 65 lakhs to
its 102 weavers (soaring to 400 in response to larger orders), by “crafting
livelihoods for the poorest, harnessing strengths of the weakest.” Its sales
have touched Rs. 2 crore.

Sheena, who studied only upto Std.
2, says, “The money I earn from weaving has given me self-confidence and
control over my life. I’d never imagined that I would one day make important
decisions for such a big organization.”

Every product at ANTS couches an
unvoiced story from the Northeast, often visualized by mainstream India as an
unfathomable, troubled region. This pilot store in Bangalore hopes to use “soft power to mould
minds.” Even if changing mindsets takes years, NGOs and the Bangalore intelligentsia can now reach out to
the local northeastern diaspora of over 65,000. Perhaps New Delhi and Mumbai will respond as empathetically
one day.

For those who long to explore the northeast,
ANTS is currently engaged in talks with groups like GypsyFeet, engaged with
community-based tourism and local home-stays. Perhaps that will keep hope alive
within Awon, Athing and Mimi, the Nagas from Manipur who staff ANTS. For they
dream of a united India, sensitized towards the distant, tantalizing northeast.

Tuesday, 11 September 2012

URBAN Indians had grown accustomed
to statuesque, stunning Anna Bredemeyer as the face that launched essentially
feminine products over nearly 30 years. That’s why it is quite a shock to
encounter her in Bangalore
in an entirely new avatar. As the Marketing Manager for Montblanc over the past
two years. Miss India 1976 and
possibly India’s
first supermodel is now the Swiss mega-brand’s ambassador in our country.

The century-old Montblanc, in the
popular eye, makes the world’s most superior writing tools, bar none. Over
time, it has added watches, leather goods and accessories to its range. Anna
was in Bangalore
recently with a mission to accomplish ~ to highlight Montblanc women’s jewellery
in the competitive Indian designer market, as part of a worldwide launch.

Can Montblanc, one of the world’s
top high recall brands, make an impression? “We realized that 50 per cent of
the walk-ins into our boutiques were women, who come in to buy gifts for the
men in their lives, for corporate occasions, for trousseaus. Montblanc has
always been perceived as a masculine brand. So is a Jeep or a Mercedes, but
women still drive them,” explains Anna, referring to Montblanc’s exclusive
boutiques at Mumbai, New Delhi, Hyderabad,
Chennai, Ahmedabad and Bangalore.
“Since we had a ready platform, we decided to diversify, put out something for
women.”

What’s on offer? Three collections
in 925 sterling silver, rhodium-plated and platinum finished, to allow for
price accessibility. Ranging from Rs. 5,700 for a charm to Rs. 28,000.

No one can think of Montblanc
without recalling their distinctive white star. This motif takes pride of place
in their Star collection. As a necklace with a dangling pendant that can be
re-linked to form an elegant waist chain. Or cycle-link style chains that offer
a silver star pendant for day wear, flipping to a mother-of-pearl facet for
glamorous nights out. Wrist bands in pink, blue-grey and black are adorned by
star cutouts in silver, while similar neck pieces dangle the reversible
pendants. Tuning in to the teen and college segment, the collection presents
tiny silver pendants ~ a heart, a guitar, a bloom. What better way to
commemorate an unforgettable date, a dream concert, a declaration under the
full moon?

Montblanc extends the concept of
its square Profile watches with a matching jewellery line. With cosmopolitan
accents, these pieces offer silver with a twist. Such as star-ended links that
transform into necklaces or bracelets. Or two interlocking rings that can be
twisted around to form new designs. A Montblanc promise of magic accompanies
the ring: “Make a wish, turn the ring and your wish will come true.” But there
is no company assurance of the time frame signalled!

Boheme is its most innovative
collection. Some of its soulful pieces include rings with amethyst, topaz,
crystal or citrine that flip over, Rubic cube-like, revealing moods as varied
as those of the wearer. Or cubes of silver that form an elegant chain or
locket, each allowing for transformations, cued into our ever-changing, globalizing
world.

“We have jewellery that’s right for
the young young look, but also with serious undertones for sari-wearers,” Anna
stresses, a look she demonstrates in Bangalore
in a sheer almond green sari. “Outside India, the feedback has been very
promising because white metal is always so in over there.”

The next day, recast in a white
shirt over tailored jeans and jewellery to match, Anna proclaims huskily, “Our
belief at Montblanc is that jewellery should be worn daily, not stashed away in
a safe deposit locker. It only comes alive when it’s worn. The idea was for it to
be your constant companion, like our pens. That’s why our jewellery is not over
the top.”

What drives this range? Longevity.
Catching consumers young, allowing them to grow into the brand. “Over 10
million users around the world use Montblanc products,” she declares with
pride.

Can Montblanc take on the Indian
market, where established players like Tanishq, Oyzterbay, Damas and Orra have
been wooing customers for years? “At our headquarters, they have studied the
potential before deciding to venture into this. I do believe that once people
come in, touch and feel our jewellery, they will be convinced. Because when you
buy jewellery, you’re basically buying it on trust. Quality is what you want,”
Anna reiterates. “Montblanc has always given that in the past. We don’t want to
compromise our 100-year reputation by launching on impulse.”

What does this brand offer that’s
outstanding? “There are other players, different looks, so much variety. But I
don’t see why people wouldn’t take this because it’s not over the top from the
price point of view, yet it’s giving you good value for money,” she says in
defence of the range.

Given the Indian mindset, would
Montblanc consider venturing into the gold segment? “Normally, when we look at
gold here, it’s 22 karat. Abroad, it’s always 18k. So, it wouldn’t be an
investment, probably more of an impulse buy. So, I’m not sure if we’ll go in
that direction in a hurry,” says Anna.

Has Montblanc found the Indian
south a conservative market? Anna agrees, “It’s a different mindset. We’re
treading very gently. In Chennai, over about seven years, we find it’s slow but
sure. But the sales from the boutique will need to justify a large
representation to an extent.”

She continues, “Hyderabad, on the contrary, has been
excellent. The people I interacted with seemed so rich from a cultural point of
view. Whether with our limited edition pens or other products, they seemed to
understand Montblanc. People there are into traditional jewellery, but they’ve
been coming in to buy ours, too.”

An unusual facet of the stellar
brand surfaces during our encounter with Anna. We learn that the Montblanc Arts
Patronage Award is now an established cultural fixture in ten countries. And
that part of the profits from their Donation Pens, commemorating famous
musicians and composers, goes to specially selected arts projects.

Montblanc has come a long way since
it entered India through its
New Delhi
boutique at the Maurya Hotel 11 years ago. It is targeting Chandigarh and Pune in the immediate future,
followed by at least 12 exclusive prototype boutiques over the next three
years. That’s besides 25 pan-Indian retailers.

Given the globe-trotting Indian
today, perhaps the Montblanc jewellery range will soar to the heights of the 4810-metre
snow-capped peak from which it takes its name. It all depends on whether its
star signet will find a mindset to match within the urban market.

BOTOX today is one of the most
closely-guarded secrets among the beautiful people who throng Page Three. But
what is it all about? Is it medically beneficial? Does it lift both the sagging
of the spirit and the face?

Dr. Stefania Roberts, an Australian
doctor of Italian descent, married to an Indian IT professional, provided some
vital answers in an interview in Bangalore.
A sclerotherapy specialist, she currently works as a cosmetologist with Dr.
Greg Goodman in Toorak, Melbourne.

She was in India recently for six days for training
sessions on Botox in Mumbai, Bangalore and New Delhi, followed by a
symposium in Jaipur. The trainees included plastic surgeons, dermatologists,
cosmetologists and ophthalmologists.

“We’re looking at artistry with
Botox, its application to the muscles to create a different look,” Stefania explains.
“We’re trying to bring in uniformity in Botox applications across the globe. I’m
here to share the American and Australian perspectives, so that the Indians can
adopt Botox to suit their needs here.”

What is Botox? The drug, which
first came to India
in 2006, is a trade name for botulinum toxin type A, a neurotoxin produced by a
bacterium, Clostridium Botulinum. It
has been used to treat neurological disorders over the past four to five
decades, according to a press note. As a therapeutic or cosmetic injection, it
works on the neuro-muscular junction to stop the release of acetylcholine,
known to cause excessive contractions. Originally, it was used to treat, say, cerebral
palsy. Now, gastroenterologists even use it to ease a tightening at the base of
the eosophagus. It is even said to work in 75 per cent of migraine cases. Botox
is currently being tested for use in prostrate problems.

But what of its cosmetic usage? In
1981, Canadian pediatric ophthalmologist and
ophthalmic geneticist Jean Carruthers joined her dermatologist husband,
Alastair Carruthers, on a fellowship in California.
They proved that Botox could be used to ease frown and smile lines,
brown spots and skin creases. Besides, it seemed safe in the long run, with
temporary effects from three to eight months. The couple now practice in Vancouver.

An Indian angle? “The Indian
population ages very well,” explains Stefania. “In the 1970s, we had quite a
bit of migration to Australia.
With Botox, what we’re addressing is a very non-invasive technique where we’re
injecting a purified protein to relax the muscle. It takes only five minutes to
do. We treat mainly the glabella or frown lines, or crow’s feet. Or the muscle
imbalances in the lower half of the face, like the sagging corners of the mouth,
or the neck muscles to give the jawline more definition. It’s all about looking
good, feeling good, and going out into the world.”

What of culture-specific
applications? She points out that in Korea, there is a huge demand for
Botox shots to decrease the squareness of the jaw. In Australia, it
is often injected for people who clench or grind their teeth. The Europeans,
she stresses, come across as well-dressed, confident, sometimes with subtle
cosmetic enhancement, including Botox.

But, of course, its side-effects on the individual
are still cloaked in incertitude. Rare, spontaneous reports of death have
occurred, sometimes associated with cardiac arrest, allergies, or even
pneumonia.

Stefania’s practice mainly covers Botox fillers, operating
on vascular lasers, and treatment of varicose veins in a private hospital. She
is a Botox trainer in both Australia
and New Zealand
.

“I’ve been using Botox for the last ten years. The
worst complication I’ve had with it would be a bruise. Or an eyelid could
potentially drop, which usually lasts one to three weeks, then reverses itself
because a little Botox has gone into one of the little muscles that elevates
the eyelid,” she says. “In one or two cases, it has led to a crooked smile for
two to three weeks, but it reverses itself. This is the safest procedure that I
do. With my vein patients, I’m actually scared I could create a deep-end
thrombosis while treating them intravenously.”

Stefania earlier worked in general practice. So,
she makes out a case for children as young as three who have been treated with
Botox for cerebral palsy. She reiterates the importance of updates in the use
of the medication.

That brings us to the glamour value of enhancement
by Botox, collagen or other methods. Say, in the revamped features of Michael
Jackson. “Personally, I think that’s cosmetic surgery gone wrong,” Stefania
says. “I think we need to learn from these people who have taken surgery too
far. Jackson’s probably
had some Botox along the way, but it’s surgery that’s altered his appearance.
That’s facial restructuring. He looks nothing like he used to.”

“In my practice, the procedure is non-invasive. The
patient looks refreshed. We don’t change their appearance,” she reiterates.

As larger numbers look to natural therapies for
alleviation, where does Botox fit into the overview? “I think there’s a place
for both,” stresses Stefania. “If people want to choose a more natural path,
it’s certainly there. There will be many who will prefer to age naturally.”

Perhaps with Demi Moore, Sharon Stone or George Clooney
in mind, she adds, “We have to learn from the Hollywood
stars. The effect of gravity and time leads to sagging. At the end of the day,
they will continue to age. Is that a good look? Patients often say: I don’t
want to look like that.”

As the global urban individual searches intently for
the forever young look, what would her focus be? “I’d be concerned that the
cosmetic industry is growing by the minute. There are new procedures happening
to reverse the signs of ageing ~ laser to Botox, different forms of lifting.
It’s like technology. We can’t reverse this trend,” she says.

As more men join women in seeking out botulinum
toxin, there is a yearning to lift the face, and thus the spirit. That would be
the base line on Botox.