Wednesday, November 28, 2012

California's Central Valley is ablaze with the other orange fruit tree currently: the brightly colored persimmon. And it's not just the fruit.

Persimmon tree leaves can turn a brilliant hue of red before the first big wind and rain storm of late November washes them off their branches.

What's left behind is the unpicked fruit, dangling like holiday ornaments during December. That's a feast for our eyes...as well as a banquet for hungry birds.

Persimmons have adapted well to our California climate: warm, dry summers and mild winters. At least 500 different Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki) varieties were brought to California during a major planting spree from 1870 to 1920. In 1877 alone, more than 5,000 plants in 19 varieties were imported from Japan. As a result, 99% of the commercial persimmon crop is grown here in California.

Persimmons are quite nutritious, as well, loaded with Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Fiber, and antioxidants such as Beta-Carotene and Lycopene.

If you live in the Central Valley, Southern California, Bay Area or low foothills ... you can grow that! Bare root persimmon trees will be available at local nurseries during late December, January and February.

Give them full sun and a regular irrigation in the dry months for best production. Persimmon trees can tolerate partial shade.

Persimmons are usually classified as either astringent or non-astringent. For fresh eating straight from the tree, choose a non-astringent, self-pollinating variety such as Fuyu, Giant Fuyu, Yemon or Izu. Astrigent varieties, which need to soften thoroughly before they sweeten, include Hachiya, Chocolate or Tamopan. Those varieties are self-fruitful, as well.

Location: Full sun with some air movement is recommended for persimmon trees in inland areas, although they will tolerate some partial shade. Persimmons grown in cooler areas should have full sun with protection from cooling breezes. As an attractive ornamental the tree fits well in the landscape. It does not compete well with eucalyptus.Soil: Persimmons can withstand a wide rage of conditions as long as the soil is not overly salty, but does best in deep, well drained loam. A pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 is preferred. The tree has a strong tap root which may mean digging a deeper hole than usual when planting (when on D. kaki stock).

Irrigation: Persimmon trees will withstand short periods of drought, but the fruit will be larger and of higher quality with regular watering. Extreme drought will cause the leaves and fruit to drop prematurely. Any fruit left on the tree will probably sunburn. Some 36 to 48 inches of water are needed annually, applied gradually in spring and tapering off in the fall. Hot inland areas may require 2 or 3 applications weekly, while coastal areas may need watering only once every 6 weeks, depending on the soil. If a drip system is is used, the emitters should be moved away from the trunk as the tree matures.Fertilization: Most trees do well with a minimum of fertilizing. Excess nitrogen can cause fruit drop. If mature leaves are not deep green and shoot growth is less than a foot per year, apply a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 at a rate of 1 pound per inch of trunk diameter at ground level. Spread the fertilizer evenly under the canopy in late winter or early spring.

Pruning: Prune persimmon trees to develop a strong framework of main branches while the tree is young. Otherwise the fruit, which is borne at the tips of the branches, may be too heavy and cause breakage. A regular program of removal of some new growth and heading others each year will improve structure and reduce alternate bearing. An open vase system is probably best. Even though the trees grow well on their own, persimmons can be pruned heavily as a hedge, as a screen, or to control size. They even make a nice espalier. Cut young trees back to 1/2 high (or about 3 feet) at the time of planting.

Pests and Diseases: Persimmons are relatively problem-free, although mealybug and scale in association with ants can sometimes cause problems. Ant control will usually take care of these pests. Other occasional pests include white flies, thrips which can cause skin blemishes and a mite that is blamed for the "brown lace collar" near the calyx. Waterlogging can also cause root rot. Vertebrate pests such as squirrels, deer, coyotes, rats, opossums and birds are fond of the fruit and gophers will attack the roots. Other problems include blossom and young fruit shedding, especially on young trees. This is not usually a serious problem, but if the drop is excessive, it may be useful to try girdling a few branches. Over watering or over fertilization may also be responsible. Large quantities of small fruit on an otherwise healthy tree can be remedied by removing all but one or two fruit per twig in May or June.

Harvest: Harvest astringent varieties when they are hard but fully colored. They will soften on the tree and improve in quality, but you will probably lose many fruit to the birds. Astringent persimmons will ripen off the tree if stored at room temperature. Nonastringent persimmons are ready to harvest when they are fully colored, but for best flavor, allow them to soften slightly after harvest. Both kinds of persimmons should be cut from the tree with hand-held pruning shears, leaving the calyx intact Unless the fruit is to be used for drying whole, the stems should be cut as close to the fruit as possible. Even though the fruit is relatively hard when harvested, it will bruise easily, so handle with care.

Storage: Mature, hard astringent persimmons can be stored in the refrigerator for at least a month. They can also be frozen for 6 to 8 months. Nonastringent persimmons can be stored for a short period at room temperature. They will soften if kept with other fruit in the refrigerator. Persimmons also make an excellent dried fruit. They can either be peeled and dried whole or cut into slices (peeled or unpeeled) and dried that way. When firm astringent persimmons are peeled and dried whole they lose all their astringency and develop a sweet, datelike consistency.

Yemon Persimmon

And we are in total agreement with the CRFG: persimmons make an excellent dried fruit, a great sweet snack or for use in cookies or breads!

According to our favorite book on dehydration techniques, "How to Dry Foods" by Deanna DeLong:

• Wash and remove the stem cap. Cut fruit in half and then into 3/8-1/2" slices.• Place on a dehydrator sheet in single layers.• Dry at 140 degrees for 1-2 hours, then reduce heat to 135 degrees for an additional 7 hours (approximate).• When done, they should be tender and pliable, but not sticky.At that point, you can either vacuum seal them in plastic bags for long term preservation, or store the dried persimmons in a canning jar for quick use.Backyard gardeners who do a lot of drying are passionate about their choice of dehydrators. Some prefer the rectangular Excalibur dehydrator ; others (including our household) enjoy the circular Nesco American Harvest Dehydrator . Our largest complaint about the Excalibur: the fan blows from the back to the front, which can rearrange any lightweight herb leaves that you might be trying to dry. The Nesco American Harvest dehydrator's fan moves warm air from the bottom up, offering less disturbance to the drying crops. Still, the Excalibur is a good choice for most fruit and vegetable drying.

Monday, November 19, 2012

Peach leaf curl causes leaves of
peaches and nectarines to discolor, thicken, pucker, curl, distort and
eventually fall off. The fungus overwinters in these trees as spores,
usually in the new buds. The rains of late winter and early spring 2012 splashed
these spores onto the emerging leaves, causing more problems. Emerging
shoots can die; fruit production can be reduced in severe infestations.
Only rarely do reddish, wrinkled areas develop on fruit surfaces; later
in the season these infected areas become corky and tend to crack.
The good news is that a
second set of leaves soon emerges and can develop normally when the
rains cease and daytime temperatures steadily reach into the 80's. The
bad news: too many years in a row (perhaps 3) of a serious peach leaf
curl infestation can kill peach and nectarine trees.

Studies at
UC Davis have shown that nipping off infected leaves of peach and
nectarine trees doesn't do much good.

The best thing
you can do this fall and winter is to assist those trees through this stressful period.

• Rake up any fallen
leaves and pull weeds that are growing beneath the drip line of the
trees.

• After cleanup, spread four inches of fresh organic mulch beneath those fruit
trees. Organic mulches, such as compost, shredded branches or the fallen
leaves of healthy shrubs and trees will help conserve soil moisture,
hold down weeds and add nutrients to the soil as that mulch breaks down.

• Pruning in fall
prior to applying any fungicides can reduce spore numbers overwintering
on the tree and reduce the amount of fungicide needed.

• If leaf curl
symptoms occurred on your trees last spring, be sure to treat them now to prevent more serious losses the
following year. The experts at UC Davis
advise pruning infected peach trees in the fall before spraying with a
copper ammonium complex product with 1% horticultural spray oil added to
the mix.

In the good old
days
of fruit tree sprays (2009), 50% copper concentrates were the
recommended course of action. Not any more.Copper sprays, such as Liquicop available currently are weaker (about
8% concentration). Lime sulfur has been removed from the market. Bordeaux
mixtures are expensive and wasteful...and potentially caustic.

And to add insult to injury: tests conducted at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center
by Chuck Ingels, UC Farm Advisor, show that the older, stronger copper
sprays that are no longer available (Microcop, for example), along with
lime sulfur, did provide the best control.

The trial earlier this year involved treating (or not treating) individual branches on 10 different peach and nectarine trees

Still, that study did provide some good news about the future of peach leaf curl control:

The future of peach leaf curl control?

"Compared to untreated branches, Liquicop-treated branches averaged
about 70% control," says Ingels. "Copper soap was slightly better at 80%
control, Agribon (row cover material) by itself was less effective at
just under 60% control, and both Agribon + Liquicop and lime sulfur
(late fall) followed by Microcop (late winter) resulted in nearly
complete control. Maxicrop (sea kelp) did not work at all and seemed to
increase the severity on some of the branches."The UC Davis
Integrated Pest Management information on controlling peach leaf curl
says, "Fixed copper products include tribasic or basic copper sulfate,
cupric hydroxide, and copper oxychloride sulfate (C-O-C-S), but
currently only liquid products containing copper ammonium complex
products with 8% MCE (e.g., Kop R Spray Concentrate [Lilly Miller
brands] and Liqui-Cop [Monterey Lawn and Garden]) are available to
consumers. The most effective copper product, 90% tribasic copper
sulfate with a 50% MCE (Microcop) is no longer available to retail
outlets, because the manufacturer withdrew the product in 2010, although
remaining supplies still can be sold."

One of the reasons for
that removal: repeated annual use of copper products over many seasons
can result in a buildup of copper in the soil, which eventually can
become toxic to soil organisms, and if it moves into waterways, can harm
some aquatic species.

The removal of lime sulfur products
was prompted by a rash of self-inflicted deaths in Japan in 2008 called
"Detergent Suicides", which has since spread to the United States.

Bordeaux mixtures, a combination of
copper sulfate, hydrated lime and water, are effective in controlling
peach leaf curl, but come with their own set of warnings. According to
the UC IPM Guideline entitled "Bordeaux
Mixture": "When applying Bordeaux, be sure to wear protective
clothing, including goggles, because the spray deposit is corrosive, can
permanently stain clothing, and is difficult to wash off." They also
recommend wearing a dust and mist-filtering respirator when mixing in
the hydrated lime. And that mixture can discolor anything it touches,
including buildings and fences.

Although you can purchase pre-packaged
Bordeaux Mixtures, they are not as effective as the mixture made from
the individual components, reports that UC IPM Guideline. And that
brings up the cost and waste involved: copper sulfate and hydrated lime
are usually sold in large quantities, much more than the average
homeowner needs for the backyard peach and nectarine trees. Storage
involves mixing the leftover individual ingredients separately in water
and storing in their own sealed jars. That UC IPM Bordeaux Mixture
Guideline warns: "Be sure to clearly label both stock solutions and
store them where children can’t get into them, since these materials,
especially the copper sulfate, are very toxic and corrosive."

The synthetic
fungicide chlorothalonil is the only non-copper fungicide available for
managing peach leaf curl in the backyard orchard. Although one fall
application may help prevent a spring outbreak of peach leaf curl, a
second application in January or February, as the buds begin to swell,
can be beneficial, as well.

But be sure to read and
follow all label directions if you choose to use chlorothalonil,
including this: "This product is toxic
to aquatic invertebrates and wildlife. Do not apply directly to water
or to areas where surface water is present or to intertidal areas below
the mean high water mark. Drift and runoff from treated areas may be
hazardous to aquatic organisms in neighboring areas."

Or this:
"May be fatal if inhaled. Harmful if swallowed or absorbed through
skin. Causes moderate eye irritation. Avoid contact with eyes, skin or
clothing. Do not breathe spray mist.

Or this:
"This product contains chlorothalonil which is a
chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer."

No
matter which spray
method you choose, several days of dry weather must follow for the
products to work. And that was the frustrating part of the winter of
2011-2012: the weather was comparatively dry during December, January
and February...perfect for spray applications. The wet March and April provided the perfect vector for peach leaf curl, splashing spores of
the disease to those branches that were unsprayed or incompletely
sprayed.
There are peach varieties that are more resistant to peach leaf curl.
The downside: they may not be as flavorful as you might like. Peach
varieties reported to be more leaf curl resistant include Frost, Indian
Free, Q-1-8 and Muir; among nectarines, only the Kreibich variety is
resistant, says UC Davis.

And
for those who want to provide a helping hand next fall and winter to
their suffering peach and nectarine trees: there's always spraying Liquicop combined with a spreader-sticker, followed by covering the trees with a row cover such as Agribon or other medium weight row cover fabric during rainy weather. Be sure to remove any covers during sunny weather to avoid overheating problems.

Ingels does pass along this tip: "Agribon likely allowed some rain to penetrate to the branches. It may be best held up with a post in the middle to allow rain to run off down the sloped sides rather than having a flat surface on top, but it must be fastened securely because of strong winds."

Monday, November 5, 2012

According to Sacramento's main promoter of supermarket fruits and vegetables, Michael Marks, this week is National Fig Week. It seems a bit late in the fig season to be celebrating this under-utilized fruit, but what the heck...anytime is a good time to enjoy figs, fresh or dried!

Figs are part of a heart-healthy diet. 3 to 5 dried or fresh figs provides 3.5 grams insoluble fiber and 1.5 grams water-soluble fiber. Diets rich in soluble and insoluble fibers, such as the fiber found in figs, help maintain healthy blood cholesterol levels.

The fruit from the most popular home fig tree varieties
are usually harvested around here in September and October. Still, some
of you may have a few figs lurking on your backyard trees.

I enjoy fresh figs as part of a fruit salad. For those of you who want the occasional sweeter treat, eaten in moderation, you may enjoy this recipe for:

Thursday, November 1, 2012

The typical Sacramento-area frost season (when temperatures dip
to 32 or below for short periods of time) is fairly short: primarily,
December and January.

However,
November frosts do happen here with regularity. Freezes, too.

The
earliest frost date for Sacramento was on a November 4, back in 1935,
when the morning low fell to 30 degrees. The latest frost date recorded
was on March 27, 1898, with a low of 32.

In 2011, a surprise cold snap on the morning of November 5 sent some areas in Sacramento County to freezing.

Two years ago, there was a 2010 Thanksgiving
surprise: the morning low temperatures in the suburbs of Sacramento
dipped into freezing territory. 28 in Elk Grove. 24 in Rancho Cordova.
23 in Folsom. The temperatures in Rancho Cordova and Folsom stayed below
28 degrees for 7 hours that morning. That's a citrus-killing,
perennial-punching hard freeze.

Freeze-Pummelled Pummelo

Not a Happy Hosta Thanksgiving

What is cold? Some definitions:

Frost:
temperatures dip to 32 °F (0 °C) for short periods of time. Occurs with
fair skies and light winds.

Freeze: temperatures at or below 32 °F

Hard Freeze: temperatures below 28 °F for several
hours.

Fruit-laden citrus
trees could be threatened by very cold mornings in the weeks (or days) ahead. Some planning tips for the
upcoming cold mornings:

7. Winterize your gasoline-powered
garden equipment. Gas can go bad and screw up your engines if allowed to
overwinter, unused. Drain the tanks or turn off the supply valve and
run the engine until it stops. For containerized gas (or gas still in
equipment) add a stabilizer. Run the engine for 10 minutes or so to make
sure the stabilized gas is thoroughly mixed into the engine.When a Freeze or Hard Freeze is Forecast (temperatures remain at
or below 28 degrees for several hours)

1. Wrap any
exposed plastic water pipes; use a cover for outdoor faucets. Turn off
the water supply to outdoor irrigation faucets, if possible. Allow those
faucets to drain.

2. Disconnect garden hoses and lay them out straight...away
from driveways!

3. Adjust your pool, spa or pond filtration
timers so that they are running when the chance of freezing
temperatures is greatest, between two and nine a.m. Moving water is
less susceptible to freezing.

4. For dish-shaped fountains: Turn off and let drain to the holding tank below ground. Remove any standing water in the dish.

Frosty the Fuchsia

After a frost:

1.
Identify damage: dark brown or black leaves and twigs.

2. Wait to prune out damage until after danger of frost is
past, and new growth begins in spring.

3. Make sure the backyard birdbath isn't frozen
over in the morning. Daily fresh water for dogs and cats is also a good
morning habit.

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Fred Hoffman is the producer/host of the "KFBK Garden Show" on KFBK-Sacramento (1530-AM and 92.5-FM) each Sunday morning from
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