As a part of the Detailed Image Ask A Pro Team, I get the opportunity to try out a lot of different products long before they reach the market. The manufacturers look to us for everything from product development help to simple product feedback. Some of these products and opportunities are brilliant, some of them are “me-too”, and some need to go back to the lab for further refinement.

Rewind to over a year ago and I received a bottle of Black Light from Chemical Guys that had been in development for a while in their Thailand offices. I was told that it was designed to meet the harsh environmental conditions of Thailand, and should do extremely well in the North American market as well. It was being marketed as a gloss-enhancing sealant, so I figured that I would give it a try.

Chemical Guys Black Light Hybrid Radiant Finish

Since the product name is somewhat nondescript, let’s take a look at the label to get more information on what the product is exactly:

Black Light Radiant Finish is crafted and formulated especially for car lovers who aim for the smoothest , sharpest and wettest reflection possible with strong durability ,ease of application and anti static property.

Black Light Radiant Finish has a fully synthetic nano blended formulation with a massive emulsion of gloss enhancers coupled with the new bi – blend technology that leaves one crazy slick finish .

The new blending technology allows for vastly homogeneous mixture resulting in an extremely smooth finish once the applied layer is fully and properly cured.

So…did that description answer your questions on what it is? I didn’t think so…

What is Black Light?

Fortunately for the readers of the AAP Blog, I have spent an entire year testing and working with Black Light before writing this review instead of simply reading the label and trying it once or twice.

When you read into the product description, you kind of get the idea that it’s a gloss enhancer. Then as you read it again you may think it’s a sealant. Well you’d actually be correct on both fronts, so let’s call it a “gloss-enhancing sealant”.

If you’re looking for a product that will add a tremendous amount of gloss and color enhancement to your paint, then Black Light does it perfectly. If you’re looking for a product to add a layer of protection from the elements, then Black Light does that well too. Either way you use it, you will be extremely happy with how the paint looks…regardless of the color.

But wait, there’s more!

Chemical Guys Black Light as an All-In-One (AIO)?

Since I’ve worked with Black Light for so long, and have had discussions with the behind-the-scenes people in charge of designing this formula, I can tell you another use for this product that you won’t read on the label, or in other product reviews…it also makes a great All-In-One (cleaner, polish, sealant).

Black Light contains very fine abrasives in the formula to help clean and lightly polish the surface while it’s adding gloss and protection. So if your car (or customer’s car) is a bit needy, but a major paint correction detail isn’t on the menu or budget, then you can reach for an incredibly easy to use product like Black Light for the job. I’ve taken worn-out cars and given them a quick application of Black Light, and have been stunned by the difference that it made in such a short amount of time. And to further define “short amount of time”, I mean just 30 minutes with a D/A polisher! Not only will you get light correction and color/gloss enhancement, but you’re completing it with a layer of durable protection at the same time.

While I didn’t take any “before” photos of this Bentley, it had what you’d expect from a 5 year old car with soft paint…a lot of haze and wash-induced marring. While you may think that a vehicle of this caliber would be a prime candidate for a several thousand dollar full paint correction detail, we agreed simply to make it better without turning it into a show car. Once again in a short amount of time and very little effort, we made a major transformation by using Black Light, and the owner of the vehicle was absolutely thrilled with the results.

How to use Chemical Guys Black Light?

While some products are very particular about the application and / or removal process, Black Light is as easy to use as it gets, which is pretty standard from Chemical Guys. Personally, I don’t like working with products that are finicky or are difficult to use unless their results far outweigh the obstacles. So for me, the ease of use factor of Black Light immediately makes it a go-to product.

The preferred method for Black Light is with a dual-action polisher (D/A). Using a soft finishing pad (black or blue), put the speed on 3.5~4, and apply just a couple of pea-sized drops to the pad. Quickly spread it around with the machine on, and then slow down your arm movement a bit to work it in evenly. You don’t have to work it like you would a polish…you’re simply going over the area long enough to provide a cleaning of the paint and getting an even coverage. 2 small drops can do a working area of about a half of a door (a little goes a long way). It’s very similar to using Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze…goes on smooth, a little goes a long way, and there should be very little residue. If you see a lot of residue after your application, then you’ve used too much product.

What about pressure? This really depends on how you’re using it. If you’re using it post-polishing as a sealant, then just use light pressure at most. If you’re using it as an AIO, use light-to-medium pressure to allow the fine abrasives to work for you more.

What about curing time? Black Light only needs about 15 minutes to cure before you wipe it down. If you wish to apply a second coat (by hand works well), or if you want to top it with a wax, then give it another 30 minutes after wiping it down.

What about durability? Durability on these products depends on so many factors…how it was applied, how the surface was prepped, how the vehicle is maintained, what kind of shampoos are used, etc, etc. One person may see just 2 months while another will see 6. On my personal car I easily saw 4 months of protection, and it could have been longer but I always like to freshen it up before the protection slopes off. Unless you’re talking about a boutique paste wax that only lasts 3-4 weeks, I think the subject of durability is over-used and over-rated. If somebody’s in the market for all-out durability and they don’t want to touch their cars for long periods of time, then they’re going to look for a product like Optimum Opti-Coat. But for people who like to work with their cars and keep them looking fresh, the durability of a Black Light or a Blackfire Wet Diamond, or Menzerna Power Lock will be more than sufficient.

Can it be applied by hand? Yes. For those who don’t own or use a D/A polisher, Black Light can easily be applied by hand with a simple foam applicator. Just remember that a little goes a long way.

Can you top it with a wax? Yes, you can! After about 30 minutes from when you’re finished wiping it down, you can top it if you like (not necessary, but you can if you want to). Black Light in my experience is very compatible with carnauba paste waxes, and I haven’t had any issues with bonding, smearing, etc. I’ve topped it with everything from Chemical Guys Hardcore XXX paste wax (one of the best waxes for the money!), to Pete’s 53, to E-Zyme and have had stellar results with all of them.

On this TDF Blue Ferrari 360, I used Black Light as an AIO, then topped it with Chemical Guys Pete’s 53 wax, and wiped it down with V7. The car looked absolutely spectacular when finished!

How to maintain the Black Light finish? To keep the finish looking it’s best, I highly recommend using Chemical Guys V7 spray sealant / detailer. Use it as part of your drying process by spraying your waffle weave drying towel with V7 before wiping down each panel. V7 won’t leave streaking or smearing, it’s very easy to use, and will increase the durability of your wax and / or sealant. As of right now (and for the past 8 months or so), this is the only spray sealant / quick detailer / drying aid that I use! I guess I need to get busy and write a review about it as well!

Final Thoughts on Chemical Guys Black Light

As I said in my opening statement, I have been using Black Light for over a year now on just about every single car that has been detailed at the Esoteric studio. If I didn’t like it, I wouldn’t still be using it, right?

This product does so many things well that I couldn’t imagine dropping it from my arsenal (unless something better comes out of course). I use it as a final sealant, and I use it as an all-in-one product. I even have a pre-set starter package that I offer where Black Light is the featured AIO (for you detailers out there…that type of service with this product is where the big profit is…it’s not in the full correction jobs).

No one product is perfect for all types of paints and all conditions, and Black Light is no different. Because of the light abrasives in the formula, I have found a few finicky, ultra-soft paints where it would leave slight marring after finishing up a full correction detail. When using it as an all-in-one on neglected soft paint, this isn’t an issue. When working on perfected soft (dark) paints however, I’ve noticed slight marring (usually only seen under a bright LED light like the Brinkmann). This is not a deal-breaker by any means because these types of paints are rare.

In my professional opinion, Chemical Guys Black Light is one of the great products available out there in the market, and it most definitely gets my seal of approval!

If you have any questions or comments, or you would like to share your personal experiences with Black Light, please do so in the comment box below. Thank you!

I love this stuff! I had no idea that it could be used as an AIO though. I’ve only ever used it like a sealant on my detail jobs, but I look forward to using your AIO application tips to see what kind of results I get. I can attest to insane amounts of gloss from this product even on my white car. Thanks again for sharing with us.

As usual, great and informative review. My wife’s car is 2006 3 series black BWM (the paint is a nightmare, anything can scratch or produce swirls and paint correction is an endless job). I have polished it using Meg DA compound and finished it with Menz PO85RD. I then applied BF Wet Diamond and topped it with BF Midnight sun. I have done all of this like 3 weeks ago and now I just saw your review about Black Light.

Question is: Is it too late to use it now since I have already sealed the car? If it is not too late, will using it with a DA cause the marring you talked about because the paint is so soft?

If you just did all of that, I wouldn’t change it up because you have a good combination that should last you a while. I’ve never used Black Light on a ’06 3-series, so I can’t say whether it would cause marring or not.

I just picked this up and used it on a AM DBS and let me tell you, the gloss and depth were right on par with ezcream glaze. The black paint looked fantastic! Plus, I was on a slight time crunch, so I didnt have time to go the typical CGEZC then BFWD route…blacklight did exactly what I needed it to do!

Alright, I’m buying it. I love BFWD and I was looking for an AIO that had the pop of BFWD. Thanks for the review.

One question, I know that you said a black or blue pad would work great. Could using a slightly more aggressive pad give a slightly better correction and more gloss? Did you find that the blue or black pad was the best combination?

I don’t think it would make any difference in gloss by going with a more aggressive pad. Would it increase correction when trying to use it as an AIO? Maybe, or maybe not. Since there are so many different paint types out there it’s not possible to throw a blanket yet or no answer to that question. In my opinion, if you’re worried about greater levels of correction, then you’d want to probably use a different kind of product at a slower pace than what you’d want to do with Black Light. For me, I know what jobs are Black Light ones, and I simply grab for a finishing pad and get on with it.

When you wish to re-apply, just wash and apply as directed…pretty simple. As for EZ Creme, most of us have talked about it extensively within our detailed write-ups, but don’t think anybody has done a review on it specifically. I’ll see if I can get one of the authors to do a writeup about it.

Been lurking here for so long, and this would be my first time to comment here. Anyway, i am just curious if you could use Black Light as an AIO with black pad, can this replace Megs D301 after correction with D300? Seems like this will have better durability compared to D301.

On most paints, probably not. Black Light doesn’t have the same level of correction ability that D301 has. On hard, light colored metallic paints however, you could probably get away with it and it would look just fine.

So if my client wants a more durable protection can i do it like this?
– 1st step, D300 on MF cutting pad
– 2nd step, D301 on MF finishing pad
– 3rd step. Black Light on grey pad (applying it like an AIO to remove wax from D301)
will this work?

You might want to test the combination of D301 and Black Light on your own car first. There’s always a possibility that the wax in D301 could prevent a good bond for the Black Light, and therefore effect durability.

Thanks for responding back Todd. We have been using an AIO and have pretty much come to the conclusion that 1 pad and 1 AIO yield maximum gloss and other combinations don’t enhance it at all. I am appreciate your take on that. It let’s me know that we are probably doing it the right way.

I have the original Porter Cable 7424 which is good to learn on but difficult to correct paint with but I am trying to hold off on spending $300+ on a Flex as long as I can since I only work on my own cars. Will Black Light work well for AIO with the Megs MF finishing pad?

You can actually achieve very good correction with a standard PC 7424!

And to answer your question…I don’t think that Black Light would team up well with the MF finishing pad. D301 was designed specifically to work with that MF pad, whereas Black Light was designed with foam pads in mind.

My problem with the original 7424 is that it’s very easy for the machine to stop rotating and quite frankly it’s becoming a chore to detail a car that’s not already in great shape. After trying my friend’s Flex orbital it really made me discouraged to use my original 7424 for anything but wax/sealant application.

I think you will find that the newer 7424XP has more “oomph” compared to the old one and may be just what you’re looking for. The difference in power is significant IMHO. No it is not like the Flex, but still a significant difference. I would consider the Flex to be in between a 7424XP and the Makita rotary.

This is a great review BTW, and I especially agree with the comments on sealant durability.

greetings todd, very informative write-up – thank you
not trying to high-jack this thread but what is your recommendation of products for a brand new bmw type alpine white paint polish/sealant
thank you sir

I have a brand new 2011 335i coupe in black (BSM-475 specifically) and am looking to get the slickest wettest look from it. It’s free of swirls, etc. I don’t own an orbital and have to do everything by hand. Would this product be good for me? I’m a bit confused between sealants and waxes and a bit paranoid about touching the paint at all for fear of introducing swirls.

This would be a great product for use by hand on your BMW, and easy to use. The biggest difference between sealants and waxes would be durability…sealants typically having considerably more durability than waxes.

I used Black Light with a black Lake Country finishing pad on my pearl white car that is already is pretty good shape and I think it worked well. The only thing that was a little weird was that when I was working it in it disappeared from the paint and I didn’t have much to buff off after. Overall it has similar slickness and shine as Wolfgang Sealant. I can’t comment on the AIO properties because there weren’t really any flaws on the car that an AIO would take care of.

Thanks for the confirmation, hehe. The application was very different than everything else that I’ve used. At first I was worried that it might have been getting sucked up into the pad or not using enough but the pad was gliding well and the pad wasn’t getting gummed up either! I even prepped the pad like every other product I’ve used and the pad got cleaner as I went along and it never got warm (5″ black Lake Country).

I need to try it’s AIO properties out on a car that has been neglected and I hope the protection lasts as well as the Wolfgang. If I can get it to work as well as you say for AIO and protection then from what I’ve seen for myself so far, this will definitely be my go to product.

I enjoy your articles – concise, clear, very informative. Would there be any benefit to topping the Black Light with Jet Seal, BFWD or PowerLock or some other sealant? Would they adhere? Or would another layer dim the glossy appearance? Truthfully, I’m just asking because those particular products are already in the garage. Thanks in advance

Is it possible to get AIO style properties by applying by hand? I currently use BFWD and top it with the Poly charger spray but I was thinking of changing to Black light and its spray wax combo. Its a tick cheaper but the AIO really appeals to me, as I like keeping the car defect free as possible, year round (its even a DD, it gets a nice polish every spring to keep it fresh, professionally). I just keep it in tip top shape there forward.

The main question is being able to get AIO by hand. I suppose you get a little bit of it, right?

You could probably achieve some correction by hand, but quite frankly it would be pretty limited. If you’re looking for greater correction capability from an AIO by hand, then I’d recommend something like Sonax NTPC.

No, I have not, but if it’s the same or similar to the pure black they use on the Lambos, then it’s ridiculously soft. You could try a small area with light to medium pressure at speed 3.5 to 4, and if it leaves marring, then you’re dealing with very soft paint. In my experience, the best product for this type of paint is Sonax NTPC…and is what I’ve been using to finish black Lambos. You will be limited on what you can do for protection because the finish mars so easily…you’ll need to wax, or use something like Optimum Opti-Seal.

As for your M3, I would test a black pad vs the white pad when combined with PF4500 to see what gets you the best results (do you have a Brinkman LED light?). Even though you’re using a fine finishing polish, you could potentially cause marring by pairing it with a white polishing pad. If you’re using Black Light, you can skip the EZ Creme Glaze step. And if you do two coats of Black Light (although not necessary IMO), then do the second by hand. I don’t think you’ll see any benefits of doing two V7 wipedowns…just use the V7 at each wash (spray it on your drying towel). And I wouldn’t put anything on top of the V7 so you can save some time and effort of the Speedwipe.

The photos of the Blue Porsche detail are nothing short of stunning. The second of the 3 photos in the Porsche set is especially beautiful and inspirational. Thanks for sharing/illustrating what is possible.

A separate question now, which flows from an earlier article you wrote about the Porter-Cable 7424 machine. I will be buying one soon for the first time and noted that you mentioned that you primarily use 4″ pads, as opposed to the 5.5″ and 6.5 pads” one sees in countless on-line ‘how-to’ videos from various other auto detailing internet retailers. What attributes do the 4″ pads hold for you; why do you use them instead of their larger brothers? Any particular backing pads or pad brands you especially like?

I used the black light today for the first time, I stripped the old sealant off with CG citrus wash at stripping dilution but I seem to have run into a bit of a possible problem with my Black Light.

I notice, more so on the horizontal surfaces then the verticle, that my sealant doesnt feel ‘smooth’ per se. It is smooth, but isnt like ‘glass smooth’, like I could run a plastic bag over it and it wouldnt glide. I do know that on the verticle surfaces it is ‘normal’ smooth like I am used to but only in certain areas, but not very slick. My old sealant was BFWD, but I wanted to try out a different combo this time around. I applied by hand, with a red applicator pad in the same fashion as I would BFWD, but following the instructions for black light. I had the car in the sun to wash it (no shade possible) but the car was in the shade previously all morning in my garage and it was cool outside. The paint felt cool when I started applying the product.

I noticed that after my 2nd coat that it kind of smoothed out a little, and even a little more in a test area that I sprayed some VS7 on. But was it possible that the feeling I am getting from the product is from the paint possibly being a little too warm? Air temp was ~70 today, nothing major at all.

The product itself seems to be awesome otherwise. The reflectiion and the depth is much greater then I got from the BFWD but the ‘feel’ of the paint is not the same, nor is the slickness. It doesnt seem very slick at all in comparison, so I wanted to turn here to see if I did something wrong. The paint is in as perfect shape as one can be for a DD and smoothness was normal/fine before and after the wash. Again, the Black Light itself is smooth, its just not ‘smooth’ like I am used to. I hope that is enough description. And like I said, it does not have that ‘slick’ feel to it like BFWD did. I hope it was something simple, but again, the paint was cool, far from warm at least.

Car in question is a BMW 335i. Like I said though, amazing reflection and depth. Oh yea, could it be from the anti-static properties? Is there any other information you may need to help determine if what I have is normal or not and applied incorrectly or not?

I’m sure all you’re experiencing is simply the difference in feel between one product and another. Black Light is about as non-finicky as you can get, so I doubt you did anything wrong with the application. And when you say it doesn’t feel “smooth”, could that simply mean that your horizontal surfaces in particular could stand to be clayed?

When you’re comparing slickness from one product to another, just remember that slickness really doesn’t mean or do anything! Some products leave a more slick feeling (at least at first) than others, but that doesn’t have any impact on protection, looks, etc…it simply means that one “feels nicer” when wiping a towel against it. Take a product like Optimum Opti-Coat for instance. It has more durability than just about anything out there, but has little to no slickness to it whatsoever. It’s also like water beading. Just because one product produces a tighter water bead than the other, it doesn’t mean that it protects any better.

You made the most important evaluation: “the reflection and the depth is much greater…”.

Thank you for your reply. That is kind of what I was thinking, but wasnt sure. The best way I can describe what I am ‘feeling’ is like 10,000 grit sandpaper or something of the like. Its smooth, but just not super smooth. You are probably correct in the fact it is a different product and I am just not used to it. I just have never felt anything like it before.

I know my paint is clean from contamination, I dont think it needs clayed, but it could perhaps, I do have some lube and clay leftover. How can I go about stripping one area that I notice different, like my trunk lid, and testing it? I have IPA 91% in the house, is there a method I may use with that to just strip my trunk lid and then re-apply the Black light and see if it is the same or not?

I do know I did get a water bottle out and spray my hood in a small area and it was beading nice and tight. And yes, the reflection and gloss level, for my color, Space Gray, is amazing. It really has more ‘pop’ to it then the BFWD had. I am probably being paranoid, but trying something new is sometimes nerve racking. Thanks for the help Todd and continue the great write-ups. I have faith in the product but as a novice, I may need more practice, but practice makes perfect!

After a week of trying to figure out what it could have been, I had time today to wash the car. I took it to the car wash, rinsed it off, noticed it sheet very well then what was left behind was banded tightly together like little armies of water. Drove it home, did an ONR wash with it, and sprayed the vs7 into my waffle weave towel. During the wash, I could actually hear the wash mitt pulling across the paint, this cant be right. So I finished up and decided to grab a test dummy.

My roomates 03 X5 was in need for a winter prep and he wanted a nice free wash/seal out of it, so we stripped and washed his car with CG citrus, and then moved it on into the garage to put the black light on. After 1 coat….it was smooth like butter. We put it on, waited 15 minutes, hey, its great, waited 30 minutes (beautiful day so tossed the football around), put coat 2 on. Notice that farmer John across the way is tilling up his field preparing for winter. Well wouldnt ya know that the wind is blowing the right way, we scrambled back to get the 2nd coat off and the top of the vehicle had the ever so slightest of ‘rough’ to it. So, the FINEST, and I mean FINEST of dust particles had cured into the coat, and I now know this is exaclty what happened to my car.

Rough way of finding out, but now I know. On the bright side, we have the 2 cleanest cars Ive seen all day! His Black X5 really shines, deeper then I have ever seen it look. This product really brings the shine out. Im very happy with it overall. Next time I need to check if the farmer is tilling up the field before I do any car washing Worked out for my roomate, his car is fully winter prepped now!

Todd, just picked up some Blacklight and looking forward to try it after reading your article. But when I opened it, the blacklight appears identical to my Chemical Guys Smart rim wax. Does anybody know if these are the same products? Has same color, smell and texture. It would be good to know if they are the same. If they are not the same product, is there any reason Blacklight couldn’t be used on rims?

Todd: I have a couple of questions. I own a 2008 Tundra (silver) a 2011 Toyota Venza (Pearl White) and a 2011 Mustang GT (silver). Are those paints hard, soft, or otherwise? Would Blacklight be a good one step product for these vehicles? Does it leave any white residue around trim? Thanks

The Toyotas should be relatively soft, and the newer Mustangs I’ve worked on have been medium-hard. Since they’re all light colors, then hardness isn’t as much of a factor…yes Black Light would look great on them. I’ve never experienced any staining of trim while using Black Light.

Since this is my first post directly to you, let me start by saying THANK YOU for all of the great material you have written and supplied for detailing enthusiasts (hoping to be more pro-ish one day) via DI !!! I read and re-read a lot of your articles, gleaning a bit more each time.

I am considering Blacklight for my 2011 Jet Black 328i – we’ll see how Santa and I get along soon

You said: “I highly recommend using Chemical Guys V7 spray sealant / detailer. Use it as part of your drying process by spraying your waffle weave drying towel with V7 before wiping down each panel.”

I have gotten into the habit of the blot-drying technique to avoid dragging a towel across my paint. Would this spray and dry concept still work, or do you suggest spraying the towel (lightly), placing the towel on the paint, and gently pulling/moving across by pulling at the corners – for each panel? In my head, spraying with the blotting technique would not ‘cover’ the target area they way I think it should.

If you have a current drying system that works for your vehicle, then by all means stick with it. But if you want to use V7, then simply add a step after drying and spray and wipe the V7 with a plush MF towel as you would a quick detailer or spray wax.

Been doing a bit of reading on Black Light before i purchase and i seem to get comflicting views…
In your review, you mention that it contains very fine abrasives – whilst in other reviews you have a CG rep from the UK stating that “Another thing i would like to add is that Blacklight contains no abrasives in it at all”

You can see why i’m confused?!
Even more so because your review is on the CG USA webpage?

Well based on what I was told by CG long before it ever hit the market, and by the way it reacts, then to me I believe it has a very small amount. But I guess you need to ask yourself if it really matters?! I’ve used it stand alone, and I’ve used it after spending 20 hours polishing…both with excellent results! In this case I think the important consideration is how well it works…

I guess I must be the odd man out. I have a Denim Blue metallic Audi TT. Usual covering is 3 x KSG topped with 2 x wax, P21s or soemthing similar. Tried 2 x Blacklight with Hybrid 7 and car looked ok at first but after the first wash paint looked flat compared to normal and colour was not as deep. Not happy at all. Topped with 2 x CMW removed with H7 and all good again. To my eyes Blacklight not nearly as glossy nor as deep looking as KSG.

Todd, just bought the black light, have not tried it yet. As far as durability goes, does it last comparably as long as other sealents? I have been using wet diamond and midnight sun on customers cars with good durability and great results. Would like to try blacklight if the durability is there

Hello Todd : I’ve use the combo of (black light and V7 ) and the look has my friends asking me all the time how and what did I use….. needless to say they now have placed orders with (C. G.) for my personal car can you tell me would I be happier with using a buffer/ pads? and which one should I buy ? and as bonus is their any wax i should consider with the combo I’m already using ?

Thank you very much for your great review! I am really interested in this product but have seen another post above stating that Black Light contains no abrasives at all. When you talk about light abrasives and the way the product reacts in your reply, would it make sense to compare the abrasiveness to those found in NXT Tech wax 2.0 for instance?

I have put down a coat of Ez Creme Glaze to help hide the fine swirls and such on my car (it looks great, did exactly what I wanted it to do), as the car really did not need a full on polishing this year, at least for now.

How long should the Blacklight work over the top of the glaze? I have two coats of Blacklight over the glaze and I will be doing a coat of V7 after my next wash and then I use the V7 every couple of washes there after to help keep the car fairly fresh. I was just wondering if the glaze would diminish much of the durability.

The car absolutely SHINES with the Ex Creme/Blacklight on top. It looks amazing. Im now just more worried about longevity, as I just started a new job and the car will be driven further and I do not have access to covered parking now (see: 5000ft elevation sun 300 days a year)

It seems to be holding up ok, but I am not really sure, perhaps Todd can answer this question for me.

I noticed after the EZ creme that MOST of my scratches/swirls had disappeared after the EZ creme glaze. I can now see some of them again. Does that mean that my sealant AND the glaze have started wearing off, or is it what happens to the glaze? The car seems to be beading well still and surely is great after running the hose over it (the water sliding right off the car with ease). It may be this is how it is supposed to be. I dont know, I have never used a glaze before.

On a new Infiniti G37(Black) would I be better off stripping whatever is up there from dealership? Then applying Black Light as a AIO followed by Hybrid V7? If yes, is there enough abrasive qualities to the product in regards to any marring that may occur from the claying? I am doing this all by hand. Thanks

Todd – I used CG Blacklight on my 2006 e55. The car looks quite nice and the product was VERY EASY to use (one of the easiest I have ever used). I applied the AIO with a Griots orbital and a black pad.

My question is would you top the Blacklight with something else for added protection, gloss, or depth ? Or would you just wash the car weekly and follow up with v7 ? Also, any advice on how often I should plan on re-applying the Blacklight ?

(The car is a daily driver and gets a hand wash weekly.) Thanks in advance!

Hi Todd I wanted to know whether you still suggest using Chemical Guys Extreme EZ Creme Glaze with Acrylcic Shine before applying Black Light or whether that is no longer necessary given that is an AIO product. Thanks much. I cannot wait to try Black Light on my white car.

I just purchased a 2012 Honda CRV last week and am determined to take much better care (and preventative care) of this than my first car, as I really didn’t know what I was doing 10 years ago. Will a wax like Optimum Car Wax go on well after the Black Light? And can it be used in combination with the V7?

Great write up Todd!
I have been using BL for a few months on my car. I have a Brilliant Black Jeep Grand Cherokee. BL is amazing how it allows the flakes to pop. My issue is, I have been a huge fan of Collinite #915. It looks great and the length it lasts surpasses the Columbus winter. I was really excited to try it as a topper on BL but was disappointed with not only the reduced “slickness” but also the lack of longevity that I had been accustomed to with 915 by itself. The paint prep was no different (Wash with CG citrus was and gloss then clay). Any thoughts on what I can do to make the marriage work? any thoughts on a topper that will last 3+ months? Or do I just go with 915 as the winter prep and be done?
Thank you,
Rick

Todd great product. I have been using this as an all in 1 too and it works great. What is the best way that you have found to clean this product out of the pads? I have been using chemical guys pad cleaner and it is very dusty after it dries. I do not have a pad washing bucket. Thanks

Does Blacklight have polish abrasives or does it fill in scratches with fillers? I know Pinnacle 360 has fillers and don’t want to go that route. My goal is to remove slight water spots, that claying won’t remove, and small imperfections.

Dear everyone,
need some experts advice…i have cleaned my car with p21s paint cleanser(to remove and shine any part left) after claying..then i applied Black Light by hand…the shine is amazing..so i just want to know should i top it with Menzerna power seal for long protection? will it make the appearance and protection better..and after how long should i wait to apply the Menzerna Sealant??

Todd: Read your article on Black Light and just got around to trying it. The make of the car is an `1908 Ford Edge and the paint , at the time , was called “White Sand Triple Coat” it is a very very light cream with subtle metal flakes. I do a full detail twice a year. I strip the car, clay, polish, seal and wax. This year I used Black Light as my polish with a black pad. I keep the car in immaculate shape! I followed your instructions in the article with the exception of wiping it down with alcohol and water before I applied the sealer. There was no mention either way to use it or not. After two coats of Wolfgang deep gloss spray sealant, with the proper curing time in between and then applied two coats of Souveran spray wax. The car came out very shinny and slick however what ever I did, either product wise or my process, the metal flake in the paint is muted to the point of not being able to see it.
I will do a full detain in the fall and am asking if there is a better polish that will bring out the metal flake better than the Black Light ? I would rather ask your opinion first before I raise the question on a forum because I will probably get all kinds of answers
Thanks for your help.
Jim Phillips

Been detailing for the last 6 months and done a few cars but have been given a job on a 2002 blue Bentley and the paint is full of washing maring (straight lines) . I have been using bl for a long time now with excellent results. For a single stage machine correction I’ve got m105 and menzerna 203s (2400) using a cg orange pad, which product would u recommend ?. Then can I follow up with bl and Pete’s 53 wax or r222 wax?. What would you recommend?. Many thanks for your time.

I have a black mettalic ford explorer I am gonna clay it then polish it then glaze it then seal it and wax if I was to use the black light were wouldi throw it in? I bought The EZ creme glaze is that good to use for black mettalic? Also for waxes I was thinking going first layer 5050 and second layer purple haze for some extra depth what do you think?