Tag: Tree Cutting Cost and Tree And Shrub Removal Service

A Weed Whacker has various names: String Trimmer, Garden String Trimmer, Tree Pruner, Brush Cutter, Weed Eater, etc. As other articles have aptly pointed out, Tree And Shrub Removal Service in Douglasdale these versatile garden tools come with various cc-power levels, electric versus gasoline, and 2-stroke versus 4-stroke capabilities. But what has not been addressed is the use of a “BLADE” on such a tool for all the versatile work a blade can perform in the garden environment.

ADDED VERSATILITY AND USES WITH A BLADE:

A circular saw Blade specifically made for and attached to a Weed Whacker gives the following versatility uses in the garden environment:

1. Tree trimming (aka Pruning) which in many cases actually works better than using a cumbersome heavy chain saw for pruning since the circular blade can be wielded at the end of a lighter longer 6 foot Weed Whacker shaft for reaching up into trees. Local Arborist Such a blade can typically cut a tree branch/ limb up to the diameter of the blade provided you cut from both sides of the limb.

2. A blade can be used for clearing large patches or even acreage of heavy thick wood stock brush and sticker brambles (aka: Blackberry sticker bushes) where a common string line spool would be much too weak to cut through adequately.

3. Hedge trimming is a dream with a blade attached to a Weed Whacker; the hedging action is faster and less jagged as compared to a standard hedging tool. So in conclusion, a blade attached to a Weed Whacker augments your common standard string trimmer into a full-on chain saw, hedge trimmer, and large acreage clearer of wood stock weed, saplings, and heavy tall growth brambles (ergo, Black Berry bushes).

BLADE HARDWARE, ARBOR HOLE MATCHING:

Each Weed Whacker on the market is different and so each owner of their particular Weed Whacker will have to contact their respective Weed Whacker Manufacturer to inquire about BLADE attachment hardware. Most electric-powered versions are UNDER powered for handling a Blade so will probably NOT have blade attachment hardware available. On the other hand, most gasoline powered Weed Whacker’s will have Blade attachment hardware available. Blade attachment hardware normally consists of a standard blade guard along with a few small metal parts that fit on (slide onto) the little threaded shaft that the String Spool screws onto. These little pieces of hardware will consist of the lower part that will have a raised circle about the size of a common 25 cent piece (quarter) or as small as a nickel (5 cent piece). Cutting Tree Roots this raised circle is how the hole in the center of the Blade fits on, then the upper part hardware piece variously called “the cap piece” is applied on the top of the blade, then a nut that is screwed on top of the cap, followed by a cotter pin.

Tree Cutting Techniques

3. Eighty (80) to one hundred (100) TEETH Blade: This is the highest level in the Weed Whacker Blade choices. It should be clear now that the more teeth you have cutting, the more aggregate cutting surface area you are applying to the job at hand. In addition, an 80 tooth blade costs more money to make as compared to a blade with half as many cutting teeth as mentioned in (2) above (40 teeth). But the cost is not typically much more if at all for having 80 teeth over 40 teeth. The 80 plus teeth blade offers the most versatility, stays sharper longer and is the best value for the buck. The 100 teeth type blade is the absolute best value since if offers 25% more cutting surface area (teeth) over an 80 tooth blade.

The one main consideration is that the typical 80 tooth blade comes in 8 inch diameter that fits with the safety blade guard ON your Weed Whacker, and the 100 tooth type blade is normally 9 to 10 inch in diameter and therefore will not allow a blade guard to fit. We recommend that the maximum size diameter blade be limited to 9 inches unless you have a very powerful Weed Whacker, otherwise the large circumference of the largest blades can bog down the motor. So in conclusion: 8″ and 9″ diameter blades are best, offer the most aggregate cutting surface, therefore stay sharper longer, and offer the most versatility of jobs in the garden. NOTE: We think Carbide teeth are so worth the small extra purchase cost that we would say a 40 tooth carbide blade would be recommended over an 80 tooth plain steel any day of the week. But the 80 tooth or 100 tooth blade with Carbide Teeth is the absolute best there is.

Tree And Shrub Removal Service in Douglasdale ?

First of all, what good does tree pruning trimming and shaping do for my trees? Secondly, why do it in the winter months? Trimming a tree or pruning is necessary for many reasons. An important reason to prune a tree is to lessen the chance of it falling during a wind or ice storm. Thinning a large tree canopy is a great way to reduce wind resistance.

Once pruned, air can now breeze with ease through the top of a tree requiring much less stabilization and pressure on the root system. Tree maintenance is also appealing to the eye like grass cutting. Cutting dead limbs helps prevent the spread of disease or bacteria, and avoids potential hazards. There are many benefits to trimming, shaping, & pruning a tree.

So why is pruning a tree in the winter so effective? There are many reasons. I will point out a few important ones.

1 - It is Cheaper! Most tree cutting service prices are low in the winter months since this is a slow period. Local tree service cost is very competitive during this season.

It is necessary sometimes to remove live limbs, especially if a tree is potentially hazardous with a lean. If a large heavy limb is on the side of the lean and the tree has grown towards a structure, then by removing this large limb (leader) you can decrease the chance of tree fall. A trees canopy and weight of large limbs has a lot to do with why a tree falls in a storm. Especially a tree is not diseased or dead, although usually there is a mix of issues for a large tree to tumble over in a storm.

Tree trimming, cutting, pruning, & shaping are necessary tasks. As homeowners, it is our responsibility to maintain our trees and keep our yards and neighbors safe. Performing tree work of any kind in the winter is a smart move and saves on the annual tree maintenance budget. So put on a warm coat, get out there in that Cold weather, and get those trees pruned! Contact a local company to provide your tree cutting service.

Tree Trimming - Cherry Trees

Cutting down a tree isn't as simple as just whacking away at it with an ax. There are specific techniques that need to be followed in order to preserve the wood and ensure the safety of the people cutting down the tree. In order to predict how a tree will fall, the cutter will need to determine the right type of cut to use. There are three main notch types that individuals can use during tree cutting. They are the open-faced notch, the conventional notch and the Humboldt notch.

The Open-Faced Notch

The open-faced notch is ideal for trees that require a high level of accuracy. If the individual is cutting in a tight spot, where accuracy is extremely important, the open-faced notch is the safest notch to use. In this notch, a large, sideways V is cut into the side of the tree. It is a heavily angled notch. The first cut goes in a downwards motion of at least 70 degrees. The bottom cut goes in at a 20 degree upward angle. Then, a small horizontal cut will be made on the back of the tree, meeting the point in the V. The only downside to this notch, other than the additional time required, is the cutter will need to remove the hinge, so there will be a small amount of wood lost.

The Conventional Notch

The conventional notch is named that way because it is the most common type of notch used. It is the preferred method among loggers and tree removal specialists because it is fast and safe at the same time. It still allows a certain amount of accuracy, though not as much as the open-faced notch. In this notch, the top cut goes in at an angle, while the bottom cut is horizontal.

The Humboldt Notch

The Humboldt notch is another common notch when cutting trees. In this notch, the top cut is made horizontal, while the bottom goes in at an upward angle. In this notch, the kickback over the stump might be larger, so it is not ideal for leaning trees. However, this notch does save a lot of wood, so when the tree is being cut for the purpose of using the wood, then the Humboldt notch is a good choice to make.

In tree cutting, it is important to fully evaluate the type of cut prior to getting started. In all cases, the safest possible cut should be used for the purpose of getting the tree down safely and accurately. For most individuals, this will mean using the open-faced cut in order to get the tree down. However, the individual will need to consider the way the tree is leaning, the health of the overall tree, the obstacles in the tree's way and the size of the tree. In most cases, it is best to cut the tree in a way that goes along with the natural way the tree leans. This isn't always possible. In cases, where the tree is leaning in a way that it can't be allowed to fall, non professionals should consult with a tree removal service in order to make sure the tree cutting is carried out as safely as possible.