Climbed higher Northern Summit with Brian K. on a lovely day. The route went rather easily and we both felt the peak to be a bit over-hyped. The rock is indeed quite loose and "rubbleish" but the scrambling section short and mostly easier than the rating implies. The class 4 crux would be rated class 3 without the junky rock but can be passed without too much trouble. This is a very enjoyable day out for anyone comfy on easyish scrambling with marbles on the ground.

Some of the rottenest rock i have ever climbed on! absolutley horrible. Beautiful though. Nerve wracking like no other to have a human sized block of rock slide out from under you. This happened not once but on a regular basis. Had to set up a rappel at one point, certainly did not trust our nuts and anchor.

Climbed the incredible Grand Central Couloir to the saddle between north and south peaks (about 12,200') on extremely and increasingly nasty snow. Small wet slide releases on all sides prompted us to hightail it out of there. We reached the base about 10 minutes before the _real_ slides started. Yow!

Amazing mountain and scenery made all the more impressive by the horrendous nature of the rock and snow.

I made two attempts on the Nokhu Crags in March and April of 2001. The first attempt ended with my being nearly blown off the ridge down to the American Lakes, and my second (successful) attempt ended with my being nearly blasted off the summit.

I climbed with my dog Poudre, but we only made it to the saddle before we turned around. Although I enjoyed my dog's company, he definitely cramped my style. The first third of the ascent was up a miserable loose scree and dirt slope before we hit more solid rock. However, the more solid rock was crumbly and was littered with small chunks. I didn't have that much fun. Perhaps if I didn't have my dog, and I'd had a human companion to encourage/shame me, I would have been successful in making the summit. See my trip report for a few more details.