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TDE546RBW1 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for TDE546RBW1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Loud Squeaking

1. Unplug dryer from outlet2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.

Drum glide wore down and caused close to get stuck between drum and front panel.

Unpluged dryer. Removed the top of dryer by pushing in a retaining clip on both sides of the front lip with a screw driver. Remove the two screws on both sides of front panel. These screws are square head or phillips #2. Unplugged the wiring harness to front panel (make sure power has been disconnected). Support drum and lean front panel away from dryer body. Front panel will pull off of tabs at bottom. The old drum glide is fiberous and hard to remove. I removed most of it with the pliers, but had to carefully scrape the balance of the glide off with the wood chisel. The adhesive that comes with the repair part has an acetone base, so I used acetone (or you could use nail polish remover) to remove the old adhesive. Once the acetone has dried, I applied an 1/8" snaking bead of adhesive to the front panel. There is more adhesive in the tube than you need so do not use too much. Make sure that you get adhesive as close to the base of the lower seal as you can. Follow directions on adhesive tube and then attach the glide. I let it set up for about 30 seconds. Place the front panel back on the tabs of the dryer. Carefully lift the drum an fit it on the front panel and insert the two screws holding the panel to the base. Reconnect the wiring harness and make sure it is not in contact with the drum. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors on the timer are still in place. Reassemble the dryer. Reconnect power.

Unplugged Dryer.Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.Removed Thermal Limiter.Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.Replaced Thermal Limiter.Closed top of dryer.Plugged Dryer back.Tested Dryer - it works.

I found a electrical diagram and some common problems on some websites which led me to check the thermal limiters. There are two right up top near the back of the dryer - one mounted closer to the heating coils and one mounted directly to the sheet metal on the inside back of the dryer. Using an DMM on the "Ohms" setting, I checked each sensor to make sure that they were "closed" (near zero ohms). Sure enough, the sensor mounted on the back of the enclosure was open (high resistance) which prevented the dryer from starting. To confirm, I shorted the two leads going to the sensor together temporarily and wrapped them with electrical tape and then tested the dryer - it worked perfectly. The part from Part Select was ordered and shipped very quickly. Since the sheet metal screws holding the sensor on were difficult to access with the drum in place, I used small machine screws/nuts to fasten the sensor - this allowed me to tighten the nuts from the outside of the dryer, making it very easy to attach.

First..kudos to PartSelect for their fantastic support! Great work folks.

While greasing the bearing in the back of the drum, I found my heating coil was broken. Steps to replace:

1) Unplug the unit2) Remove the top panel. Note, do not remove the center front screw that does not go into the door.3) Remove front outer panel4) Remove interior front panel5) Remove front control panel 6 screws, pushing downward the panel and disconnecting connection to door.6) Remove door by removing the screws on the top and pull door straight off. (I left the air duct attached to the door)7) Remove the back access panel to the motor8) Release the belt from the idler pulley and remove the belt.9) I removed the three screws in the center of the drum as I found it difficult to remove the drum from the bearing. Remove the drum.10) disconnect the coil terminals by first bending the tabs outward to allow you to be able to pull them off the block 11) remove the old coil12) carefully stretch the new coil so that it measures 48 inches (no more)13) Plug new coil into terminals and bend tabs to lock in place.14) Divide heater coil in half and install coil onto center support on the opposite side from where it connects to the block/back wall of dryer15) Install remaining coils onto supports.16) reinstall all parts in reverse order.

Dryer drum would squeak and squeal until warmed up, but progressively got worse as the days drug on.

First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

Drum would not turn

remove the rear lower left vent cover to get access the belt tensioner and pulley. then pop the top section up with a flathead screwdriver in the front, freeing it from the popclips. Then remove two screws from the back side of the front section releasing the drum. loop the belt around the drum.

Torn Lint Screen

Actually, I didn't install the frame. I only needed the lint screen. So EASY, obviously... I just placed the new lint screen in the old frame. We had been messing around with the torn lint screen for more than one year. Installing the new part was as easy as ordering from PartSelect.

The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )

Repair requires nearly complete dis-assembly of the cabinet.Starting with the steel panel directly below the control panel, remove 2 screws. Next, remove the screws on the lower corners of the control panel. The control panel can drop down now and be removed from the cabinet. The door frame must be removed next. Start by disconnecting the door interlock connector from the wiring harness and then removing the screws on the top of the cabinet that hold the frame. remove the frame. The dryer tub is next and is removed by extracting the three screws in the back of the tub that bolt it to the bearing. The tub is now free and is pulled out of the front of the cabinet. Now comes the challenging part. The actual bearing is a sphere that is held in place by a spring loaded socket. The bearing must be removed in order to access and heater assembly. The bearing is removed by pushing it with considerable force upward toward the top of the cabinet. This strong force is necessary in order to overcome the force of the springs that hold the ball bearing in in place. I found removal of this bearing perplexing because no mention is mentioned anywhere of the amount of upward force that it takes to remove it and I was afraid of breaking it by forcing it. Now the heater assembly can be easily removed and replaced. This whole process is challenging and time consuming. At the same time you can feel a degree of satisfaction when you are done.

Dryer wouldnt turn on

I thought the problem was electrical so I inspected the power cord and noticed a burn on the ground connection. I disconnected the wires and inside the block was melted so I replaced it making sure the connection was tight between the power cord and block. It runs no problem. I think the dryer shorted because of a loose connection.

Unplung it, pop up the top and take it off, unplug the 2 plugs, take 2 screws out that hold the front door, take out the door. Get the belt loose from the back roller, pull out the entire drum. I changed all 3 thermostat, 2 in the back and 1 in the front, also change the rear bearing. Dryer works great now, no more squeeking and no more overheating it's like having a new dryer. I'm a woman and did it all by myself, save me a bunch of bucks!!!