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Meet Leilani a Possum in the care of Kinjarling Marsupial Rescue. When this Snuggery was hung in her enclosure Leilani was quick to snuggle up in it and that is how these crochet hanging baskets came to be called a "Snuggery".

Free Crochet Pattern - Rhombus Afghan

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Last week I shared my rhombus afghan crochet project with you. Here is the pattern I promised.I used two 400 gram jumbo balls of 12 ply yarn and 5.5mm crochet hook which resulted in a very dense finish and a stiff hand which is just what I wanted for this project.

Rhombus rows

Round 1 (increases)

Round 2

SC into top of stitch just made, Ch 2 (takes place of 1st DC), DC into same space, DC, DC, 2 DC into last space, turn work.
(total 6 DC )

Round 3

SC into top of stitch just made, Ch 2 (takes place of 1st DC), DC into same space, DC, DC, ,DC DC, 2 DC into last space, turn work.
(total 8 DC )

Round 4

SC into top of stitch just made, Ch 2 (takes place of 1st DC), DC into same space, DC into the next 6 stitches, 2 DC into last space, turn work.
(total 10 DC )

Round 5 (widest row)

SC into top of stitch just made, Ch 2 (takes place of 1st DC), DC into same space, DC into the next 8 stitches, 2 DC into last space, turn work.
(total 12 DC )

Round 6 (decreases)

SC into top of stitch just made, Ch 2 (takes place of 1st DC), DC into the next 9 stitches, DC2Tog, (total 10 DC and 1 decrease of DC2Tog) turn work.

Round 7

SC into top of stitch just made, Ch 2 (takes place of 1st DC), DC into the next 7 stitches, DC2Tog, - the last stitch (SC, Ch2) of previous row is not worked. (total 8 DC and 1 decrease of DC2Tog) turn work.

Round 8

SC into top of stitch just made, Ch 2 (takes place of 1st DC), DC into the next 5 stitches, DC2Tog, - the last stitch (SC, Ch2) of previous row is not worked. (total 6 DC and 1 decrease of DC2Tog) turn work.

Round 9

SC into top of stitch just made, Ch 2 (takes place of 1st DC), DC into the next 3 stitches, DC2Tog, - the last stitch (SC, Ch2) of previous row is not worked. (total 4 DC and 1 decrease of DC2Tog) turn work.

Round 10

DC4Tog, (SC, Ch2) of previous row is not worked. (SC into top of stitch just made, Ch 1 (takes place of 1st DC) leave the loop on the hook, *yarn over pull up a loop in the next stitch, *3 times - you should have 4 loops on the hook - yarn over and pull through all four loops. ) Ch 1 to close the decrease.

Your first Rhombus shape is complete.

To begin the next rhombus work into chain stitch just made and repeat rounds 1-10 until desired length is achieved. SS to finish section.

Make as many sections as required for width of project.

My rug has 8 rhombus for each row. The completed rug is made of 7 rows, 4 in the darker colour and 3 rows in the light coloured yarn.

The second row of rhombus need to be begun half way through the rhombus shape. This allows the rows to be nested into the hollows of the previous row for joining as pictured below.

Begin with a foundation row of 8 dc (equivalent to round 6), and continue from there as before. Finish the row of rhombus at round 6 as pictured above.

Edging the rhombus rows

The edging is worked along each long side individually. The rows are then joined. Once all the rows are joined the the top and bottom ends are edged.

round 1

2 sc into each chain space, 1 sc in the joining stitch of each rhombus

round 2

reverse single crochet (rsc) into stitches of previous round

I edged my two outer rows and the center row in the same colour as the rhombus and all the other rows I edged with the contrasting shade.

Joining the rhombus rows

I used a plaited braid join to join my rows. It is the first time I have done this join and I shall do my best to describe it. I intend to do a picture tutorial in the future and will link to when it is done.

round 1

sc into back loops of rsc, *ch 3, skip one rsc and sc into back loop of next rsc, repeat from* to end. Do this to both sides of every row.

round 2

Start with a sc in the first chain space of the previous row, ch 1, *remove the loop off the hook and poke the loop through the chain space on the first chain space of the row you are joining to, from the back toward the front, pick up the loop with the hook and perform a sc, ch 1
remove the loop off the hook and poke the loop through the chain space on the second chain space of the first row, from the back toward the front, pick up the loop with the hook and perform a sc, ch 1**

You should now have a zig zag from your first row to the row you are joining to and back again giving the appearance of a braid (plait). Repeat from * to ** until you have joined the rows all the way to the end.

Comments

It's my first foray into writing a large pattern for others to use. I'm hoping someone gives it a go and tests it out for me :o)

I'm totally in love with the blue/greys which I also used in the zig-zag throw, and I keep having this vision for it to be paired with a creamy white which is why I chose the other shade but the white in the same yarn is a super bright white and doesn't look right to me. There is a fabulous red colourway that I saw last time I purchased that I would rather like to try.

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