THE GREAT WAR TRILOGY AND 4 YEAR PROJECT FOR WW1 CENTENARY
Walking 3,000km around WW1 Europe, raising money for charity and publisJuhing a Trilogy of books and poems about the Great War. The latest title ‘Walking back Through Time’ is available for order at Waterstones.
Having spent 4 years walking around WW1 Battlefields which I also used as charity events, I have recently put together a Trilogy of Books with poems and art. The project known as ‘A Pilgrimage of War and Words’ gives a day-to-day overview of the horrors of war and it is hoped that the books will remind humanity of the sacrifice made during this campaign. My grandad was only 14 when he signed up for this and was still underage on Armistice Day! We will remember them!
I am presently drawing up a separate booklet containing some of these poems. We will look at reading one out each day leading up to the 11th November to commemorate this poignant time.

Donations can also be made to the Royal British Legion via my Facebook Page.

I have now also completed over 30,000 miles on charity walks over a 25 year period as a fundraiser (roughly 1 walk per year and a 10-day pilgrimage each year for Cornwall Hospice Care in the last decade (10th anniversary this year to the month).

It is also the 20th anniversary since being invited to help our local charity CHC.

FUNDRAISING FOR CORNWALL HOSPICE CARE – 2018

I have just completed this year’s charity walks and fundraising for Cornwall Hospice Care and will be handing over a cheque in excess of £2200 raised from our local region of St Day/Carharrack.

THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE
Walked annually by Robin Moore and his pilgrims; this year Clive Fowkes joined Robin on the 10-day walk from Morwenstow Church to St Michael’s Mount to raise money for CHC. In addition Robin has walked across part of WW1 Europe and held to Harvest Auctions to complete the local fundraising for the Gwennap Region.

FUNDRAISING FOR CHC LOCALLY

A 10 mile circular walk which forms the Gwennap Section of the Cornish Pilgrimage

Autumn Season – Harvest Auctions at St Day Inn and Fox & Hounds, Comford.
The organisers, Robin Moore and Susan Harvey would like to thank all our supporters and sponsors who have helped to make our fundraising a great success. Robin Moore and Clive Fowkes raised a substantial amount walking on this year’s Cornish Pilgrimage 10-day trek: To find out more about this fundraising initiative visit: http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
And Susan Harvey’s efforts have been monumental in raising awareness and spearheading the Harvest Campaign. We also acknowledge Darren and Paula from the St Day Inn for kindly letting us use the premises for this event and also previously when raising funds for CHC. Please note below the generosity of those wonderful people and local business that have helped make this Autumn a productive season.

AMOUNT RAISED FROM ST DAY AUCTION
The amount raised at The St Day Inn for Saturday night’s Auction stands at: £488 rounded up to £500).
TOTAL = £500.

The Fox & Hounds, Comford on Saturday 27th October was an amazing success largely due to the efforts of Dan Chapman and his wonderful staff. Also Mike Dunstan for supplying the vital ingredient of the Harvest Loaf. Clive, Susan, Craig and myself had our work cut out dealing with the auction which took less than an hour to complete; and the Falomouth Sea Shanty Group Acapello Moonshine provided some intoxicating music to finish the night.
Please note we acknowledge the following personnel:

PRESENTATION
A Presentation will be held at St Julia’s Hospice in November for all funds raised this year by Robin and his team/supporters. Clive and myself did a 10-day walk for the charity and I crossed WW1 Europe to launch my Trilogy of books and help the charity; in all we hope to hand over an amount in excess of £2200.

ROBIN MOORE’S CHARITY WALK AND HARVEST AUCTIONS – SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018.
This year’s Cornish Pilgrimage has so far raised around £1000 for Cornwall Hospice Care and we have two auction events supporting Robin Moore’s latest walk for the charity (followed by an official presentation ceremony at St Julia’s Hospice, Hayle). Most of the funds for this event will be raised locally at auctions arranged by Robin and his friends/supporters; the first of which will take place at St Day Inn, Fore Street, St Day from 7pm on Saturday 6th October. The auction will begin at 7.30pm and will be followed by the Cornish Choir around 9pm who will entertain us thereafter.

The second auction will take place at The Fox & Hounds, Comford on Saturday 27th October around 7pm. Entertainment from the Falmouth Sea Shanty Group will follow the auction.
Posters and news reports about the events for CHC are now being processed throughout the community and there will be further opportunities to support the Robin Moore’s walk for he charity which has also delved into the history of The Great War. Donations and auction prizes will be welcomed at each pub.

Robin’s recent charity walk across Europe’s WW1 Battlefields was the last in a series to commemorate the centenary of the end of the Great War which will now enable him to complete a trilogy of books about his experience. The project entitled ‘A Pilgrimage of War and Words’, shows insight into battles fought in Belgium and France covered on several walks in the region; the three books are also illustrated with photos and verse written by the author himself. Please read an account of his recent journey below.

WALKING FLANDER’S FIELDS FOR THE GREAT WAR CENTENARY
FOREWORD

POEM- ‘The Dead are young in Flanders’

‘Thank God the war is over, but what of them,
The young, the brave, those fallen men,
Who died in battle to make us safe,
And build a better world united in faith.

They’ll remain young – encapsulated in time,
Cut down were the millions, all in their prime,
Epitaphs remind us of the war dead long gone,
In the cemeteries of Flanders where their names live on.

Each white tablet evokes eternal grace,
A reminder of conflict in this timeless place,
On every battlefield where men fought and bled,
Lies a peaceful garden that harbours the dead

Day 1 Ostend to Diksmuide
Having negotiated the Cornish Riviera to London, the Euro Express to Brussels and a further train to Ostend I begin my tour along the seafront to the end of the city boundaries. Heading inland I pick up the cycle route to Gistel formed from the N33. The journey runs smoothly along part of the ‘Poppy Trail’ interacting with many small villages. The weather is humid and misty bringing about an early dusk as I plod on to Diksmuide where I have no luck finding accommodation. While contemplating a night under canvas the young receptionist at the Pak Hotel, my last hope, phones to book a room at the B&B Esenkasteelhoeve – just of the Ypres Road. I am now less than 20 km from Ypres having made far greater progress today than expected even though I did not set off until after 2pm due to the excess of travelling. Any way I find the correct turn put it is dark and I miss the signpost for the B&B thus walking the entire industrial estate for a further 2 hours! Eventually I get there at well beyond 11pm and I am fortunate that Monica, the proprietor is still awake. Better late than never and after a good scrub down I retire to my bed.

POEM OF THE DAY

A Sense of Duty
POEM – ‘A Pilgrimage Borne from War’
‘Summoned by the call to arms we proudly enlist,
We are the young liberators who care not of risk.
Compelled by a sense of duty to do what is right,
The War is our calling and God’s cause is our fight.

We fear not the harshness of a war unknown,
But then, it won’t last long and we can all go home.
It will be a chance to travel, adventure at its best,
We’ll be back by Christmas, victorious in our quest.

The guns boom louder here, evoking fear across the land,
Reducing historic towns to mounds of brick and sand.
So onward to the field they go, into its world of eerie gloom,
This is no place for a young man who knew a better life at home.

Memories of fun are a far cry from here,
Where rats run rampant in trenches near.
‘Stark as it is, we stand stoic and true,
In our quest to free Europe which we aim to see through.’

Above the parapet, the jaws of hell open wider still,
In an oncoming storm that threatens life at will.
A fierce barrage rages throughout the night,
As we steel ourselves nervously for the imminent fight.

The dawn whistle blows and we go over the top,
To face bullet and barbed wire until we finally drop.
Amid darkness of ‘No Mans Land’, gun fire and gore,
Our destiny is sealed by a pilgrimage borne from war

Day 2 Diksmuide to Ypres
Blimey – What an episode that was last night! I had missed the turn off for the B&B and walked the entire Industrial Estate – I guess that’s par for the course for me – been there many times and the best of it was that, being an obscure set up they sent a lady out to pick me up and transport me there. The problem is I am a purist and will never accept lifts when on a walk unless it is a straight to and from the road to my accommodation – in order to keep the walk honest. So in fact I became a victim of my beliefs which I can at least live with and not be too disgruntled!
Once back at the N369 I was able to follow the cycle route to Ypres via the many villages that belong to this predominantly rural part of Belgium.
Stopping briefly I fix my feet which are by now blistered at the heel as well as the ball of my foot. Painfully I press on wondering why the journey is taking so long – actually it is only 1.30pm!
I conclude the last 6km on the cycle route by the River and canal, taking nice photos of the barges at the end of the line. Soon I am walking into Ypres and quickly locate my hotel before crossing the street to The Flander’s Fields Museum where I am happy to find that the Information Section have copies of all my WW1 Walks and ask if I would be kind enough to sign them! From here it’s off to the Menin Gate for the Last Post Ceremony and tomorrow I will be walking the famous battle fields associated with the Ypres Salient.

POEM OF THE DAY – The Fallen
‘For each fallen man a poppy will rise,
It pays tribute to his bravery and sad demise.
A life cut short by the folly of war,
In a battle for freedom that many died for.

They fought against oppression in a savage conflict,
Suffering 4 years of brutality that is hard to depict.
Each offensive cost thousands of lives,
Causing great loss to families, parents and wives.

It’s hard to imagine such slaughter of men,
Yet, keen they all were to fight back then;
For King and Country they pledged their all,
Not caring or knowing how many would fall.

Now the time has come to remember their plight,
Knowing they believed their cause to be right.
When they entered the field for the final time,
It was freedom they fought for and peace to mankind.’

Day 3 – Walking the Ypres Salient via Zonnebeke and Hill 62
Setting off on a muggy morning I pass through the Menin Gate, now a quitter scene that the previous evening, frequented by a few lonesome photographers as I make my way along the N332 towards Passchendaele. It is a quiet journey along a diminutive road with only the noise of the motorway below offering to disturb the peace. I make good progress despite stopping to photograph several burial sites along the way. By 11.30 I reach the Passchendaele Museum and deliver a copy of my book which records my journey along the battlefields from Switzerland to Mons and Ypres in 2014.. After stopping for coffee I make my way back to the town and locate the route to Hill 62 which is taken up along the N37.
Enjoying a pleasant breeze I walk several km until locating the byway which forms the Poppy Route and from here I continue to Hill 62. I pass by some interesting landmarks and a cemetery dedicated to the Liverpool Railway Workers who may possibly have Beeb drafted in as engineers. After crossing the Menin Road, I locate the turn off for both Hill 62 and Zillebeke, my route back to Ypres. Stopping briefly at Sanctuary Wood Cemetery I note how well kept the graves are and feel that at least those brave men are remembered here. Further on I enter a museum and walk the frontline trenches trying to imagine how one could ever survive the collective horrors of war. Initially it the place was called Sanctuary Wood as it offered comfort to those injured in the front line but by 1915 it had become the British Frontline heavily defended by the Canadians who ensured the Germans would not take Ypres. The war hinged largely on the bravery and heroics of these great men.
After my visit to the museum I backtrack to the cross-country footpath which will take me to Zillebeke.
The footpath leads me across farmland to a cycle route which then descends to Zillebeke; beyond here I make my journey along the waterside back to the Menin Road where I pass a camp site and walk the final steps to the Menin Gate where I will await the last post and this evenings service conducted by the Scots Guards.

POEM OF THE DAY

PASSCHENDAELE – The 3rd Battle of Ypres

The Theatre of War
POEM – ‘No Man’s Land’
‘Above the parapet lie shell holes and mud,
Where trees once grew tall above Spring fields in bud.
Tis’ now a theatre of war that evokes fear on command,
It’s where soldiers meet their maker in ‘No Man’s Land.

Only vermin prosper in this insidious quagmire,
Bloated rats invading dugouts, impervious to gunfire.
It’s where Assassins are born and death is the law,
It is a version of hell that both sides abhor.

When the big guns stand down the real fight begins,
As combatants from both sides are cleansed of their sins;
Sucked into purgatory by acts of insanity,
Eroding one’s soul through war’s pointless profanity.

Now only shell holes remain along a battered frontline,
Leaving soldiers neck high in water to bide their time;
As they wait nervously for battle in the pouring rain,
In this grim place called ‘No Man’s Land’ – The Reaper’s Domain
By Robin Moore

Day 4 Ypres to Lille
Today the Hotel O at Ypres is overrun by a British Choir who are here to visit the battlefields and perform in the evening ceremony at the Menin Gate. Feeling glad to be away from the furore I head off up the Main Street eventually locating the N336 to Lille. Stopping briefly at Bedford House Cemetery I take photos and later locate 2 more burial sites; this part of Flanders remained under siege for most of the war and Lille itself succumbed early on in 1914 and remained in German occupation until October 1918. In the beginning all the BEF could spare were cavalry divisions and veterans from the Boar War; but these were to be the last days of the War Horse and poor “Dobin” was no match for ‘Big Birther’ and rapid fire machine guns which constantly spanned the Forests and open ground which soon became reduced to ‘No Man’s Land’.

Today’s journey along a narrow road is blighted by farm machinery and lorries though the cycle lane kicks in near the border. I stop for coffee by the river; then cross into France to continue towards the vibrant city of Lille.
Reaching the Armeotieres Junction I turn left onto a cycle route indicating another 15 km to Lille and after a further 5km I stop at another cafe. The sun is hot and I need a drink of water too; from here I continue through the small town at a slower pace taking in the change of environment which appears more modern compared to the stone built villages of Flanders.
Leaving on a cycle route I follow the river bank towards the city admiring the huge industrial barges that ply these waters. Quietly the afternoon passes and by 4pm I am walking the thoroughfare amid a lively atmosphere. By chance I stumble across the hotel I last stayed at here back in 2012. Although there were no vacancies the maid phoned through to the next place en route to ensure I had a room for the night. Feeling immensely grateful for that I promptly went for a beer; all waiter service here at £5 per litre; at this moment in time I barely flinched! Shops are scarce too, but all I need is an early night and good breakfast tomorrow. Good night all and have a good weekend!

POEM OF THE DAY

A New Age Of War
POEM – ‘No Place for a War Horse’
‘The war horse once prolific in battles fought,
Served the Realm in Africa, Crimea and Agincourt.
But Flanders Fields present a new and dangerous game,
Because here big guns reign supreme over treacherous terrain.

The artillery range exceeds twenty miles,
Reducing cities and towns to rubble piles,
Infantry and cavalry have no place to hide,
The army is washed away by a deleterious tide.

Poised for retreat the BEF take flight,
Only then are the cavalry summoned to fight,
In a previous age they’d have conquered all,
But sadly this time they ride only to fall.

Oh for those days of shock and awe,
When men on four legs were the elite in war.
Now we are cannon fodder in a modern age,
Victims of technology and advanced fusillade.

Sent out to die is our final command,
To perish in the mud of ‘no man’s land’
Charge machine gun nests on fortified ground,
Where tangled wire and shrapnel fire abound.

Not for the faint hearted is our cavalry division,
Thrust into a conflict with inadequate provision,
We’re used to a short, sharp response to warfare,
Instead we get trenches to hide from despair.

The days of the warhorse are nearing an end,
His cards are marked and his time is spent,
He now pulls cannon guns and ration packs too,
A workhorse rather than the great warrior we knew.

Replaced by technology in an Industrial war,
The war horse looks on at the new army corps,
Tanks and howitsers are now perpetrators of doom,
As the warlords usher in a new era of gloom.

Once pride and joy of the British Empire,
Fearless in combat against enemy fire,
The war horse waits restlessly in a noisy war zone,
Longing to graze peacefully on pastures back home
By Robin Moore

Day 5 Lille to Aniche
A difficult starting, making a wrong exit and having to walk to Cysoing which is too Far East. I now have to rectify the situation by walking to D938. This becomes a long non-event day – nothing to report other the constant surge of traffic heading towards! Dangerous! By nightfall I am frustrated by the lack of hotels and can’t even get any groceries for the evening; with half a bottle of water left I retreat from the road and bivvy up in a small coppice next to a farm house for the night. The flow of traffic dies down enough by midnight to allow a few hours sleep.

POEM OF THE DAY

VIMY RIDGE

Life on the Frontline
POEM – ‘The Tommie’
A ‘Tommie’s’ life is but a candle in a storm,
It flickers like a moth at night and may only live till dawn.
Fate lies fifty yards away in the path of coiled wire,
He may be lucky this time and dodge the rapid fire.

But the cycle of warfare brings little respite,
As a counter-offensive prolongs his fight.
Now with broken spirit, tiredness and despair,
Comes the inevitable stalemate of trench warfare.

There are sleepless nights beneath mud and rain,
Artillery bombardments that drive him insane.
The shells feared most are those armed with gas,
A lethal mist that brings horror in a blast.

At the dead of night a sniper digs in,
As the “Tommies” share cigarettes from a ration tin,
First light is good as he needs to take aim,
But don’t take the third for it will be the end game.

The cold winter days bring frostbite and flu,
Sometimes trench foot, and skin that turns blue,
The dugouts are waterlogged, muddy and dire,
Like “no mans land” above – a bloody quagmire.

The stench of death is always near,
It stings our nostrils with numbing fear.
There are colonies of rats and lice here too,
We all think of home and a decent brew.

This may seem to many an unusual job,
And yet people sign up to join this mob;
There is little comfort along a muddy frontline,
But It’s where the “Tommie” lives and serves his time.

Aniche to Cambrai
Cracking on at first light I had difficulty building momentum as my feet were so sore on every step. Not daring to look at them for fear of panic I take the only painkiller available to me (an emergency supply in case my back flares up!). Eventually I reach the next town en route known as Bouchain set by the River L’Escaut. I am now less than 18km to Cambrai. After coffee at a nearby hotel I continue my journey towards A2 flyover. Extending my trip from Flander’s to Cambrai proves to be hard work on busy roads which although mostly offer cycle routes, does not alter the fact I am constantly subjected to Tarmac! Eventually a steady pace wins through in the end and I reach Cambrai around lunchtime; here I photograph exquisite architecture and the flying Angel of Mons statue which signals the BEF 1914 retreat from Belgium. They fared better here in 1917 with the sophistication of the tank as a weapon in the field – ‘The Dalek of the Day’. Sadly one of my he last pointless battles fought here on the eve of Armistice resulted in the death of famous war poet Sir Wilfred Owen: his journey through life really was a true ‘ Pilgrimage of War and Words’.

POEM OF THE DAY

AN OVERVIEW OF THE GREAT WAR
POEM – ‘No Winners in War’
‘Each ruling party believed their cause to be right,
Prompting seven countries of Europe to rise up in a fight.
Enthusiasm and excitement for this war of insanity
Made the Continent a dark place of great calamity.

Remember the upsurge of patriotic elation,
Men cheering from trains on their way to damnation.
But when our ‘Champions of Liberty’ waged war on the ‘Hun’,
The lights went out in Europe for a long time to come.

Soon Big guns rain down fire from west to east,
Decimating the land like a great smoking beast.
Pointless battles see millions suffer death,
And Shell shocked survivors gasping for breath.

Who would rise victorious from this cauldron of madness,
Halt tolling bells from their mournful sadness.
Both sides face defeat with a generation lost,
Because No one envisaged a great war at such cost.

Ultimately, death to old Europe is the final result,
Who will modernise, rebuild it, and who is at fault.
Emotions were mixed over who was to blame,
But war to the elite is little more than a game.

A moment of madness lit the touch fuse to war,
Belgium first subjugated breaking peace treaty law.
Then France sacked and ruined in a 4 year assault,
Until finally a railway carriage brought war to a halt.

Now Autumn guns fall silent across the land,
Their deadly action powerless without command.
Soon, trees will grow tall again in wooded glades,
And poppies bright red to mark fallen comrades.

So the war was really over, like a new gift of life,
No more waterlogged trenches amid winter strife.
Thank God for an end to those dreadful 4 years,
No one else will die now, no more burials and tears.

But that’s little comfort to the young men who fell,
Sent from many nations to this place they call hell;
They’ll never know this euphoria, for they are gone,
Rotting in foreign battlefields a long way from home.’
By Robin Moore
We will remember them!
To support our fundraising for Cornwall Hospice Care please come along and participate in either one of or both our auctions and enjoy some light entertainment afterwards too! Otherwise you can make a donation in the yellow jars provided or at our justgiving page:

THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE SPRING WALK AND AUTUMN WALK/FUNDRAISING
This year’s fundraising concludes after the last auction (Fox & Hounds) on 27th October. The Great War Trilogy will be published in time for Armistice Week and will be available at Amazon, Cornish Library Redruth, the Star Inn, Vogue and other local outlets.
Also visit: Robin Moore’s Walking for Charity on Facebook and YouTube.

JustGiving sends your donation straight to Sue Ryder and automatically reclaims Gift Aid if you are a UK taxpayer, so your donation is worth even more.

Thank you for your support!

The Pilgrimage
The full pilgrim route runs through the Nene for 45 miles, covering a circle of the region (done over a period of 2-3 days). Details of this route can be found at the website: http://www.oundlepilgrimage.org.uk
The Sue Ryder Trail which is between 18-23 miles is our fundraising route for this year’s pilgrimage though there are cycle routes and smaller 5-6 mile walks available to accommodate family groups. These can also be found at the website or in our guides available at Oundle Volunteer Action Centre.

This year’s pilgrimage takes place on Farmers Market Saturday August 11th at St Peter Church from 8.30am. Although you can undertake the pilgrimage at any time of year by registering at the Council Offices – Oundle Volunteer Action (see Liz), Fletton House, the August weekend is dedicated to charity when we will be fundraising for Sue Ryder Thorpe Hall and other local charities.

PUBLIC RIGHTS OF WAY
Most of the Pilgrimage is easy to follow if you stick to the guide which indicates adopted trails such as The Nene Way. You will also be directed by tape markers, painted yellow arrows or scallop shells which are consistent with the Camino de St James – the pilgrim’s route to Santiago. However the Oundle Pilgrimage is largely made up of public footpaths, bridleways and byways (denoted by a yellow band of tape) all of which traverse farmland. Please be do not damage any maps or signs that show public rights of way: avoid trespassing on private land and do not obstruct any right of way. Inevitably part of the route will follow country roads so please be very careful – especially in harvest season.

Fundraisers will be entitled to A Sue Ryder Oundle Pilgrimage Certificate; there is also an Oundle Pilgrimage Certificate of Achievement available for £5.
Why not come and join us on a fun day out; you can also obtain a sponsor form from our offices or set up a justgiving page to help support a worthy cause!

THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE 2018 (contact: 07706197209)
Day 1 Bude to Morwenstow and back to Bude – 18 miles (severe)
My first big walk of the year reminds me of former days in that it was a fierce baptism!
A sleepless night is always part of the deal though I walked into town at 6am locked and loaded ready for action.
The train journey to Exeter was lovely but I had to wait 2 hours for a bus to Bude and on boarding the bus I quickly learned there are no buses running to Morwenstow, the start of the walk, on Wednesday! Some bloody timetable that is! And yes you guessed it I had to walk to Morwenstow so as to start my walk in traditional manner from the church.
The prevailing wind posed a few hazards and there was a section around Duckpool with a steep drop on both sides. At least the sky was blue and there were a few folk out enjoying the day on what is some of the more severe sections of the North Cornwall Coast path (Crackington and Port Quin are in my view tougher).
Having walked this coast path a few times I knew what lie in wait! This in some ways made it more disconcerting – it’s the first time I have walked this stretch of path there and back. But the nostalgia is uplifting and the power of the waves smashing into the shelves of rock below is invigorating. This Atlantic Anvil has been the demise of many sailors in the days of wooden ships and this was brought to the attention of Reverend Hawker who preached at Morwenstow church during that perilous maritime era.
He was very eccentric but a popular character who used to sit for hours above the coast in a hut built from driftwood; sometimes writing poems or enjoying a pipe of opium. It was through his dedication that many of the dead sailors from shipwrecks along this coast were given a proper burial in the churchyard which lies about half a mile from the coast path and his lookout point.

The undulating walk south brings me back to Stanbury Point which is dominated by giant satellite dishes and beyond here are some steep ascents which the second time round slowed down considerably. By the time I reached Bude the wind was both strong and cold but I still cracked the job in about 5 hours! I think I’ll settle for that – just need steak and chips now!

Day 2 – Bude to Langdon Cross – 16 miles (easy/moderate)
Rising at 6am I feel somewhat stiff and after a hot bath set about the task of performing a few floor exercises. Breakfast helped a bit too, the after purchasing a new set of support insoles from Mountain Warehouse I head off to the Tourist Office to collect my first stamp for my Pilgrim Passport.
Once complete I walk to the Breakwater and spend time at the lock gates of Bude Canal; the canal itself is no longer in use as an industrial waterway when it was established to ship calcium rich sand from local beaches to inland towns such as Holsworthy and Launceston. Instead now it is a great place for recreation; activities include walking the tow path, fishing and numerous water sports.
After a while I join the cycle – Cornish Way and walk on to Marhamchurch using the village canal route to reach the village which derives its name from the magnificent Norman church of Saint Morwenna.
I stop at the shop for a bottle water and chat with the proprietors about my journey; then head of in search for Route 304 which provides passage to Week St Mary. The journey is traditionally rural with country aroma and narrow bendy roads which are constantly challenged farm machinery. At the penultimate sign post to the village I opt to take the narrow side road rather than the traditional route; I find it quicker and more pleasant without traffic. At the top of the hill is the intoxicating village green and further on a grocer shop and post office. They close for lunch though the lady let me buy a couple of rolls and some water. A brief rest and phone call to the Countryman Inn sets me up for the evening and I am on my way again. The cycle route spurs off towards Canworthy Water whilst I join an even more diminutive road to Clubworthy and North Petherwin.
The quiet road offers little interruption as I make steady progress through the smaller hamlets enjoying endless miles of rusticity.
Eventually I run into the main road signposted Launceston 5 miles – I cross and turn left where to my great relief is The Countryman Inn and this evenings stay.

Day 3 Langdon Cross to Five Lanes – 18 miles ( moderate).
Setting off from The Countryman inn my first objective is to negotiate the busy rush hour traffic along the B road To Launceston which is roughly 5 miles.
The road is flooded part of the way but improves after Yeolmbridge and from there I progress nicely to St Stephen’s Church. Peering through the mist ahead is Launceston Castle and my descent towards the town brings back fond memories of previous walks where on occasions I used to stay at Newport Guest House. The land lady has long retired and I was probably one of the last guests through the door but passing by the place and inn nearby still evokes a touch of nostalgia.
Arriving in town I collect a passport stamp from the Tourist Office and then stop across the road for a coffee.
After the break I collect plasters from the chemist for a nagging blister and then retreat downhill to Launceston Steam Railway where I pick up the next section of the Trail which runs along a byway to Tregadillet.
The railway is closed until 20th May but I stop briefly to chat to the owner and am allowed to take one photo of the station. The station was once the site of an Augustian Priory (the most significant in Cornwall) and its remains are nearby at the local churchyard.
Pressing on I cross the rail bridge and continue along the Newmills byway enjoying the peace it offers and its natural rusticity. The cattle and sheep seem content too minding their young whilst grazing leisurely pace – life is good here – for a while at least.
Bearing left before Newmills I lean into the ascent to Tregadillet which is only a mile away. Reaching the village I stop at the Eliot Arms for a coffee and chat to the landlord who knows me from former expeditions.
Leaving the village I join the byway to Kennards House which also runs for 2 miles to South Petherwin.
It stops raining and I am able to repair a few tattered signs on the way through and and my feet too once I am able to find a bench. The next section from south Petherwin to the Lanwenick Junction is a bit slim and so I cross each time there is a bend.
At the junction I can at least prosper on the country lanes which first lead to St Martins Church at Lanwenick and then Plusha Cross. At this stage Five Lanes is a mere 3 miles along the A30; but no walker would be insane enough to use (I did 20 – odd years ago!), so every effort is made to avoid this calamity. And so begins an extensive route march around farm lanes which lead safely to The Kings Head at Five Lanes – actually it’s not that far – maybe just an extra couple of miles, the majority of which visits idyllic countryside made up of charming farm hamlets and wooded escarpments. The day ends well with food and ale.

Day 4 Five Lanes (The King’s Head) to Camelford – 14 miles (moderate to easy terrain via Bodmin Moor)
Setting off from the King’s Head around 9am I meet dryer conditions as make my way the church is St Nonna known locally as ‘The Cathedral of the Moor’. It is sunny today without the wind and the view of the church lofting above the green with running stream is a postcard picture image of an olde worlde village in the Kingdom of Cornwall.
Advancing up the lane from the cemetery I pass Nathanial’s Pilgrim Hostel and bearing right at the junction I continue to the Rising Sun.
A sharp left at the pub leads me downhill towards Davidstowe Aerodrome; there is traffic about – farmers moving livestock and periodically I run into cyclists heading off towards Route 3. Eventually I join the cycle path and spend the next 2 hours traversing the flat terrain that makes up the Cornish Way which crosses Davistowe’s Aerodrome to Crowdy Resevoir. The Aerodrome was used from 1942 for about 12 years and there is now a museum commemorating its contribution to the war effort. There is steady activity throughout the morning as I pass wild ponies grazing nonchalantly and sheep nurturing their young.
Bearing left at Crowdy junction I continue towards the woods where I see other enthusiastic athletes and a few dog walkers enjoying the renaissance of Spring and there are even a few youngsters on skate boards. I stop awhile and take in the warm rays on offer which was a welcome contrast to yesterday’s miserable drizzle. The day is evolving nicely and I enjoy an easy journey by the lake with views of Camelford and the impressive power mills to the right.
Leaving Route 3 at Router Lane I make my descent of 1.5 miles into Camelford and am fortunate to book into Mick’s place at the Countryman Hotel. There are no Camels here, though it’s not uncommon to see the odd Alpaca along the way! I have fond memories of this town and my quest from here is to visit the Masons Arms and enjoy food and refreshment.

Day 5 Camelford to Padstow – 19 miles
Leaving Camelford via Slaughter Bridge I take an excursion to see ” Arthur’s Place”.
It is not a great route as the traditional way runs through Lanteglos and St Teath though walkers can pick up the coast path beyond Delabole. The Cornish Pilgrimage alternative coast path journey is normally taken up at the Pendoggit Junction where the road leads to Port Isaac. At this stage I am happy to continue on the church & Village a route via St Kew, St Minver and ultimately Rock for the ferry; and that still takes until 3pm to achieve.
The sun is out and it is nice to cross the water into Padstow where it is relatively quiet considering that ‘Obby Oss Day is on Tuesday – dam good job we are not running into that I think!
I walk to St Petroc’s Church and walk the Saints Way to St Dennis Campsite where Harry gives me a pitch for the night and we enjoy a good chat about previous stops here and the different journeys I have made. Later I walk back into town on the Camel Trail and enjoy a meal and a couple of ales

Day 6 – Padstow to Lanivet – 15 miles (moderate)
Joining Clive at St Petroc’s Church we set off through the churchyard down to St Dennis Campsite where we chat to Harry for awhile why I gather my rucksack for the day ahead.
Knowing that the route is not always clear to follow we start with caution and after some uncertainties locate the woodland path beside Credis Creek. The mud track provides a clear way to Little Petherick where we pause for a water break.
Crossing to the pub the route bears left up the main road to a lane at the top on the right. Descending to the paddocks we cross to St Issey and continue via a lane for a while. After crossing an old quarry site we pass a farm complex, turn right and continue up the lane.

Later we cross a busy road to West Park Farm where the owner invites us in for tea and supplies Clive with batteries for his camera.
After, we descend to coppice and bear left towards the pastures; the first field leads to a stile but no indication where to go after! We cross the long grass where there is no track and end up having to walk the entire field to locate an exit – an hour of wasted energy basically!
The path is established again from here as we pass by another farm and eventually the track joins a road and we continue for a couple of miles and then rejoin the pastures at Breock Downs with Withiel Church in sight.
We head off towards a road which we believe will be our passage to Withiel; all goes well and we cross a few fields and join a byway marked Lanivet 4 miles.
The sun is now ablaze and the wind abated allowing us a pleasant conclusion to todays walk; but having said that we still had to walk a mile to our digs at St Bennets
Abbey and back to the pub for our meal; and of course the same will occur tomorrow when we pick up the trail to Lanlivery!

Day 7 St Bennet’s Abbey to Fowey – 16 miles (Moderate to Strenuous)
Leaving the Abbey we first visit the local shop for provisions and then Lanivet Church for our passport stamp; soon we are on our ascent beyond the village.
Dull but not cold we enjoy a windless first hour on the Tarmac passing beneath the A30 and later link with the cycle route from Lanhydrock which adopts the Saints Way as far as Luxulyan. We follow the route to the Luxulyan Junction but continue ahead on the Lanlivery Trail which is very interesting yielding land marks around the tor and the several mud tracks later the ecclesiastical wonder of Lanlivery Church. Clive and I have done well so far to reach this landmark by 12.30pm especially after a laboured day across St Breock Downs yesterday.
We kick on again to the outskirts of Lostwithiel where we endure a short blast of the main road; but after half a mile or so we are back on a dirt track following a hamlet route via Milltown and Golant. The journey takes in running streams, pastures and the sound of trains hurtling by on the mainline above.
We pass under a railway bridge and continue along a Tarmac byway which takes in a country park and our first glimpse of the creek near Lerryn with a distant view of St Winnow Church beyond. We speak to a local walker who takes delight in telling us of the steep terrain to come (Clive wasn’t impressed!). He certainly didn’t exaggerate as it was quite exacting and yet rewarding with views of hilltop byways parting the rolling green landscape that is so prevalent along this route. We saw mountain goats, men with funny sticks setting off for Obby Os Day and a fair few pilgrims along the way – what a great day!
Continuing to Golant we stopped at the lovely church to stamp our passports and take photos. The final session comprised of a 3- mile walk above the creek with the narrow gauge railway track in view and a very blustery harbour.
The undulating path crosses a stream and traverses a woodland eventually joining a road as the journey tumbles down towards Fowey.
In these final stages of the day we are joined by a party of Pilgrims who share their valuable insight and stories of past adventures which we can all relate to.
As rain descends upon Fowey we make our final ascent up the steps of the Fowey Hotel to finish another tough day on the Cornish Pilgrimage which has seen us complete the whole of the Saints Way Coast-to-coast section.
video diaries will appear on FaceBook ‘Robin Moore’s Walking On YouTube

Pennance Mine

Day 8 Fowey to Mevagissey – 18 miles (moderate but easy in some parts)
Starting in tranquil, sunny conditions we enjoy our little excursion along part of the alternative Saints Way Route which leaves Fowey on the coast path. We bear right at St Catherine’s House and follow a dirt track to a small stream; then crossing through a gate we make an ascent through an escarpment to a trail beside arable land. We pass through old farmyards which are now residential properties; later we walk across an existing farm, still accommodating stock, and back out onto a slim road.
We make good progress from here but managed to miss an important turn off heading into Par. The sign post had gone and we had to attempt a field crossing to rejoin it. Disaster! Poor Clive broke his stick in the process and I nearly lost something else on the Barbed wire fence! Thankfully we made it into the town and stopped to take photos at the last remaining Saints Way Signpost along the Cornish Pilgrimage Route.
Clive had completed his goal of walking the Saints Way and so it was only right he should now return home; I walked him to the railway station and from there we parted leaving me to continue my quest along the coast path to Carlyon Bay. The blue skies had drawn many to the golf course and other walkers were enjoying themselves combining their day with a picnic on benches nearby.
Descending into Charlestown gives an insight into the buccaneering days of sail that always seem to capture the interest of visitors worldwide.
Beyond here I pass Cornwall Hospice Care on my way to the Pentewen Tramroad formed from The Cornish Way Cycle Route.
The flat road runs beside the river next to the woods finishing its journey at the Cycle Hire Shop.
I grab a snack from the shop nearby and press on towards Mevagissey joining the coast path at the campsite; then making my final ascent of the day, I enjoy the captivating views above St Austell Bay. Then after descending to the harbour and locate my accommodation at The Fountain Inn.

Day 9 Mevagissey to Carharhack
Setting off in bright sunshine I continue on the Cornish Coast Path as far as Portmellon. The hamlet seems to be under repair with scaffolding surrounding the inn and builders renovating a property further along. Soon I am up the hill beyond the cove as my journey travels west along the Cornish Way.
Passing Gorran Haven and Boswinger the road bears uphill exposing me to Caerhsys Castle and from here I make a descent through the estate pastures to Porthluny Cove.
Setting off again I walk uphill to the coast path where I will make my passage to Port Loe.
It’s a tough section but rewarding landscape and a lovely drop into the fishing cove made up of the harbour and Lugger a Hotel.
Stopping briefly at the Ship Inn I enjoy a laugh with barman and locals who are all my age. ‘Falling down is okay it’s getting back up that’s hard!”
And way thirst quenched and water stock replenished I’m on my way again using Route 3 to get to Veryan.
Veryan always fascinates visitors and I enjoy a few peaceful moments here; the round houses are intriguing especially as they were built to curtail the ‘Devil’ nocturnal activities. Apparently he was fond of young maids and frequented their premises at night. So by building round houses restricted his movements because there were no corners left for him to hide! That put a stop to his hanky panky!
Wondering off in search of Pendower (1.5 miles), the last outpost of coastline on this Roseland journey, I enjoy the peaceful descent along the slim byway. Beyond this point Route 3 takes me onto the road briefly and then through the rural footpaths to Philleigh. The inn is closed and I press on to King Harry Ferry crossing before 5pm which is good. Two people confront me – amazed st the ground I have covered today as they have seen me en route at several points since leaving Mevagissey. We chat for a few minutes before dry land appears again and we part on our quests for travel and adventure.
After scaling the hill beside Trellisick Gardens I join the Byway to Feock which takes in some elaborate thatch cottages and picturesque church. Descending to the shore I continue beside the water as far as the white bridge which puts me on course to Devoran.
At least the inn was open there and the new publican made me welcome prolonging my mission of quenching thirst. But the night is young and so are we! Time to press on to the Gwennap Region – the heart of fundraising for Cornwall Hospice Care!
The journey from here on the Coast-to-coast tramway drags on over stone tracks, floods and darkness as night draws in. In fact I struggle to believe how long it takes to walk the Tramroad – by the time I reach Carharrack it is 9.30pm and my feet can take no more. I think a pint and a Chinese is all that is left of this day for me – better than nothing!

DAY 10 – The Gwennap Pilgrimage – 14 miles (incl excursions)

DAY 11 – Carharhack to St Ives – 21 miles
Having walked the Gwennap Section of the Pilgrimage with family and friends it is time to resume the rest of the journey to St Michael’s Mount. Today I am aiming for St Ives as my night stopover and set off in cool misty conditions which are contrary to today’s weather forecast.
The route takes in Copper Lane and the byways to Churchtown; later I walk part of the Great Flat Lode and Cornish Way to Camborne.
Leaving Pendarvis Road I follow the cycle route to Penponds, Carnhell Green, and Gwineer before making my descent into Hayle.
Along the way I see impressive viaducts, effigies of the mining era and later enjoy the walk round Hayle Estuary.
Soon I am walking the coast path beside Lelant Saltings and on reaching St Uny Church I begin the final phase of the Pilgrimage along the St Michael’s Way.
The first bit follows the coast path beside the railway and golf course. It also takes in Porth Kidney Sands opening up views of the Hayle Estuary and St Ives Bay. After some gentle undulating terrain I cross the Carbis Bay Hotel garden which is a temporary detour, and walk the final mile into St Ives concluding the day’s effort at Cohort Backpackers.

THE ST PIRAN’S WALK
Fortunately the weather held and we managed to complete a partially modified section of the local St Piran’s Trail. We also enjoyed a splendid evening at Carharrack Club thanks to local band BLACK EYED NANCY who played in honour of Cornwall Hospice Care. Although sparsely attended due to weather and time of year we are expecting a significantly larger turn out for the May Beer Festival when we will be walking for the Children’s Hospice. Don’t miss out on this great weekend of fun!

WALKING THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE
Robin Moore will be walking the Cornish Pilgrimage (200 miles), from Morwenstow to St Michael’s Mount during April/May for Cornwall Hospice.
The itinerary includes a Bank Holiday Saturday Walk around the Gwennap Region (9 miles) and entertainment at local inns throughout the weekend.
For more details about the event, Robin’s walks around the world and books detailing his adventures visit: http://www.robin-moore.co.uk
For information about The Cornish Pilgrimage visit:http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
You can either join us for part of the Pilgrimage or turn up on the Bank Holiday Walk for noon start. Await details or phone me on 01209 822 025.
To support our campaign and make a donation to CHC please us the justgiving page below:https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/robin-moore9

THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE SPRING WALK ITINERARY (April/May)
Clive and I will be walking The Cornish Pilgrimage at the end of April in memory of Hazel’s daughter Zoey and to raise funds for Cornwall Hospice Care.
The Route will take in Launceston, The Saints Way and our local Gwennap Pilgrimage over the Bank Holiday period (see the next section below); I will then continue to St Michael’s Mount.
ITINERARY – 27th April to 8th May
START: MORWENSTOW
Day 1: Langdon Cross – 26th April
Day 2: Altarnun
Day 3: Padstow
THE SAINTS WAY – 29th April
Day 4: Lanivet/Lanlivery
Day 5: Golant/Fowey –
Day 6: Pentewen/Mevagissey
Day 7. St Just-in-Roseland
RIVER CROSSING WITH ‘TIM AND FLUSHING GIG ROWERS’ –
Day 8. Carharrack (Bank Holiday Entertainment at St Day Inn
Day 9. Gwennap Pilgrimage (see below) – Saturday 5th May
SUNDAY – Raffle and Motor cycle Raleigh
Day 10. St Ives – Bank Holiday Monday
Day 11. ST MICHAELS MOUNT

A 10 mile circular walk which forms the Gwennap Section of the Cornish Pilgrimage

MAY BANK HOLIDAY WALK – SUNDAY 6th MAY
THE GWENNAP PILGRIMAGE
Continuing the Cornish Pilgrimage, we invite the public to join us on the Gwennap Section which is made up of a circular walk from Gwennap Church though we will start and finish from one of the pub car parks. We also hope to run a raffle for Cornwall Hospice Care Sunday evening at the Coppice after the Bike Rally.

THE PARISH OF GWENNAP

Gwennap; Trevarth; Lanner; Vogue; St Day and Carharrack;

INNS

The Coppice, Lanner; Star Inn, Vogue; St Day

Inn; The Fox & Hounds, Comford.

ROUTE

Using public footpaths, bridleways and byways the route also

follows tramways, mineral trails and Route 3.

TIME: 10.30am

THE WALK

STARTING FROM THE PUB

From The a Fox & Hounds cross to the Comford/Carharrack Road,

turn right and walk a hundred metres uphill to the

footpath on the right. Climb the granite steps to access the path

and walk through the escarpment in the direction of Gwennap. Be

mindful of rabbit warrens and any other obstacles that nature has

cultivated along the way; at the gate turn left and walk through

the pastures alongside the estate.

STARTING FROM THE CHURCH

From Gwennap Church This route is also accessible

from a bridleway halfway along the Gwennap/Comford Road,

though this path is often flooded during winter months. Reaching

the top of Comford Hill, join the Carharrack Road briefly: then,

with caution, cross to the byway opposite. This is marked by a

shell on a tree to the left of the lane, and from here the journey

continues for half a mile to Trevarth on the Lanner Road.

Turn left at the Lanner Road and walk another half mile to the

Coppice where you can collect your first passport stamp. The inn

caters for young families and serves coffee alongside the bar

menu making it a prime location for the pilgrimage. Lanner

evolved from a hamlet to a village when Tresavean Mine became

active giving rise to the terraces which exist here today. The road

to Redruth, which dated back to Roman times, was used by

pilgrims as an alternative route (via St Day) to St Michael’s

Mount. Leaving the Coppice, cross the busy main road and

continue towards Tresavean Estate, keeping a lookout for scallop

shells along the lane on the right. Here you will join the Tramroad

which veers away to a track on the right as it continues in the

direction of Redruth. The tramway was opened as part of the

Hayle Railway hauling Welsh Coal and locally mined copper

during the 19th century. With the decline of industry it closed in

1936, when it has since become a leisure route and a home to

native fauna. Having walked a mile beside hedgerows and

paddocks you will reach a gated junction near the water tower.

Here the Gwennap Route (way-marked as a mineral trail) turns

right away from the main Pilgrimage Trail which continues to

Churchtown, Camborne and St Michael’s Mount. For a more

substantial circular walk you may continue to Churchtown and

return to Gwennap Pit via Redruth along Route 3. For young

families we recommend you follow the mineral trail down Tram

Cross Lane passing the B/B: then cross the road to join the Carn

Marth Trail on the opposite side. Follow the mineral trail to

Pennance Mine, and then continue uphill past the quarry

amphitheatre to the lake at the top of Carn Marth. The top of Carn

Marth affords panoramic views over Carharrack and the Gwennap

Region and is designated an area of great landscape value; from

the lake veer right and walk downhill to the next lane which is

marked by an old ruin. This lane descends to a byway: at the

bottom, turn left and walk about 300 metres to Gwennap Pit. John

Wesley preached at the open air amphitheatre on 18 occasions

during the latter part of the 18th century (1776 onwards) and

services are still held here including one at Whitsun. The pit was

naturally formed by mining subsidence during a period when the

Gwennap region made up the richest square mile on the planet.

John Wesley would have shown little interest in such wealth as

his concern was for the ordinary people who toiled to survive

during that great period of Cornish History. There is a tea room at

the Visitor Centre which is manned by volunteers between May

and Mid-September: the officer in charge will mark your passport

with the official Gwennap Stamp. Passports and guides are also

available here. At the end of the road junction, turn right onto

Route 3 and walk downhill to Vogue. The Vogue Shute has long

been remembered for its contribution to the community

supplying water for St Day before the introduction of mains feed

after the Second World War. These days thirst is enjoyed at the

popular Star Inn where it may be possible to obtain a Pilgrim

Stamp as well as refreshment. Continuing uphill past the

recreation ground you will also find the St Day Inn and the Holy

Trinity Church which are designated pilgrim stops. The old church

in St Day is worth a visit too: although abandoned in 1956 it was

a place of worship from 1829, and in contemporary times has

become a community venue exhibiting historic artefacts.

Leaving the village via School Hill, descend to the bottom and

cross the byway (Route 3) to the footpath opposite which is the

route into Carharrack. The trail comes out near Carharrack Club

where you continue downhill passed the Wesleyan Chapel to the

St Piran’s Church on Church Street. St Piran is the patron saint of

Cornwall and this much-loved church is the soul of the community

holding services on Sunday as well as hosting charity events

throughout the year. St Piran’s was built in the 1880’s as a

Mission Church to Gwennap Parish Church.

Nearby is the Carharrack Stars inn which has been a popular

watering hole for many years; at the opposite end of the village

is the site of the old coal yard for The Redruth &amp; Chacewater

Railway built to serve the mining boom of the early 19th century.

Like the Portreath Tramroad, it was horse-drawn for part of its life

and provided a useful link to the coast-to-coast railway which

helped the development of inland mines.

Continuing downhill beyond the inn, take the second right turn

onto Sparry Lane and walk 300 metres to Trevince Woods.

Reaching the fenced perimeter, turn left and walk along the

bridleway where you need to be mindful of equestrians who

frequently follow this course. It is a pleasant walk crossing the

woods on the way to Gwennap Church. Wildlife abounds in these

woodlands exposing walkers to enumerable mammals including

buzzards, foxes and badgers.

At the end of the footpath leave the woods by turning right onto

the Gwennap Road; this lovely winding section is formed

alongside running water interchanging at the church where the

Pilgrimage concludes.

SPRING BANK HOLIDAY WALK AND BEER FESTIVAL
Join us at Carharrack Club’s Bank Holiday Beer Festival and Morning Walk for Children’s Hospice Southwest. The local St Piran’s Trail officially starts at the church though we will be meeting at the club around 10.30am on Saturday and walking the 5-mile route via Pink Moors, Mount Ambrose, Vogue and Wheal Damsel.
VENUE: Carharrack Club
TIME: 10.30AM
DISTANCE: 5 MILES
TERRAIN: EASY
REGISTRATION: Participants can register at the club or on the day for £10 which will entitle them to a colour guide booklet of the walk. All proceeds go to the charity And we hope to provide a certificate of achievement for those who have walked and raised funds for this worthy cause.
For more information about local walks and fundraising visit: http://www.robin-moore.co.uk
Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Facebook

Part of the Feast Day Trail near Pink Moors

THE ST DAY WALK – To be published after Easter, will take place in June over the Feast Weekend.

THE GREAT WAR TRILIOGY
3 books set for completion by Autumn, describe Robin Moore’s expeditions across Europe’s battle fields of the Great War; each story commemorates the fallen, revisits the final days of the war horse, pays respect to my relatives who fought in the campaign (my grand dad enlisted at 14 and was still under age when the Armistice took place), the many war poets who died in this campaign. Here are a few poems of my own which attempts to tell a story of one of the world’s great tragedies.

POEMS FROM ROBIN MOORES GREAT WAR PILGRIMAGE
A Triliogy of the Great War

POEM – ‘A Pilgrimage Borne from War’
‘Summoned by the call to arms we proudly enlist,
We are the young liberators who care not of risk,
Compelled by a sense of duty to do what is right,
The War is our calling and God’s cause is our fight.’

‘We fear not the harshness of a war unknown,
But then, it won’t last long and we can all go home,
It will be a chance to travel, adventure at its best,
We’ll be back by Christmas, victorious in our quest.’

The guns boom louder here, evoking fear across the land
Reducing historic towns to mounds of brick and sand,
So onward to the field they go, into its world of eerie gloom,
This is no place for a young man who knew a better life at home.

Memories of fun are a far cry from here,
Where rats run rampant in trenches near,
‘Stark as it is, we stand stoic and true,
To our cause to free Europe which we aim to see through.’

Above the parapet, the jaws of hell open wider still,
In an oncoming storm that threatens life at will,
A fierce barrage rages throughout the night,
As we steel ourselves nervously for the imminent fight

‘The dawn whistle blows and we go over the top,
To face bullet and barbed wire until we finally drop,
Amid darkness of ‘no mans land’, gun fire and gore,
Our destiny is sealed by a pilgrimage borne from war.’

By Robin Moore

Poem – Kitchener’s Army of ‘Pals’
The Great War rages on with the reaper as its guide,
Hovering in the theatre of battle to visit death upon each side,
And as the allies push toward the banks of the Somme,
They find another road to hell amid shell, barbed wire and bomb.

The whisper of the Somme ushered forth more men in boots,
Young, fit and keen to fight are Lord Kitchener’s new recruits,
Old pals from Blighty, so happy and cheerful they once did roam,
Soon to embrace the wrath of conflict, many miles from home.

Summer marches on as The Battle of Albert draws near,
Beneath the mask of laughter and fun is a sense of growing fear,
Generals speak bold words of gallantry, duty and ultimate victory,
Could anything possibly halt this great surge of equanimity?

Onward march Kitchener’s men in hearty voice and cheer,
To the front they go, their songs and anthems clear,
Dawn approaches fast, with the big guns soon to stop,
And for the old pals to fix bayonets, ready to go over the top.

There’s no time to think of the day to come,
Still young with cool air and rising sun,
Gone is the life that we once knew,
Replaced by bullet, barb wire and spew.

60,000 fell on that first morning of battle,
Pushed over the top like herds of cattle,
Summer long fighting saw a million dead,
In a bloodbath of youth who were badly mislead.

Today, a land of white tablets tell of shortness of life,
From Maricourt to Albert where conflict was rife,
Like a bridge spanning nations helping the world to cope,
It’s now a place of remembrance, peace and great hope.
By Robin Moore

Devastating effects of The Great War

POEM – ‘No Winners in War’
Each ruling party believed their cause to be right,
Prompting seven countries of Europe to rise up in a fight,
Enthusiasm and excitement for this war of insanity
Made the Continent a dark place of great calamity.

Remember the upsurge of patriotic elation,
Men cheering from trains on their way to damnation,
But when our ‘Champions of Liberty’ waged war on the ‘Hun’,
The lights went out in Europe for a long time to come.

Who would rise victorious from this cauldron of madness,
Halt tolling bells from their mournful sadness,
Both sides face defeat with a generation lost,
Because No one envisaged a great war at such cost.

Ultimately, death to old Europe is the final result
Who will modernise, rebuild it, and who is at fault
Emotions were mixed over who was to blame,
But war to the elite is little more than a game

A moment of madness lit the touch fuse to war
Belgium first subjugated breaking peace treaty law,
Then France sacked and ruined in a 4 year assault,
Until finally a railway carriage brought war to a halt

Now Autumn guns fall silent across the land,
Their deadly action powerless without command,
Soon, trees will grow tall again in wooded glades,
And poppies bright red to mark fallen comrades

So the war was really over, like a new gift of life
No more waterlogged trenches amid winter strife,
Thank God for an end to those dreadful 4 years,
No one else will die now, no more burials and tears

But that’s little comfort to the young men who fell
Sent from many nations to this place they call hell,
They’ll never know this euphoria, for they are all gone
Rotting in foreign battlefields a long way from home.
By Robin Moore

Join other keen walkers on the St Pirans Trail which is approx a 5 mile easy route taking in Pink Moors, Mount Ambrose, Vogue and Wheal Damsel. Meet at the Carharrack Club for 4pm start. £10 per participant which includes your walking guide for the trail. Real ale, snacks and live music to follow in the

form of BLACK-EYED NANCY

Also participants will receive a certificate and booklet

of the walk.

New Book Release – Available Worldwide Now
A Pilgrimage to the Somme (Great War Trilogy) (9780995580800) by Robin Moore

Also found at The Cornish Library Redruth and the Somme Museum at Albert, France

FUTURE TITLES
A Pilgrimage of War and Words and A WW1 Pilgrimage will complete the Triliogy of Walks of The Great War.
Including Poems to commemorate the Fallen

POEM – ‘No Winners in War’
Each ruling party believed their cause to be right,
Prompting seven countries to rise up in a fight,
Enthusiasm and excitement for this war of insanity
Made Europe a dark place of great calamity.

Remember the upsurge of patriotic elation,
Men cheering from trains on their way to damnation,
But when our ‘Champions of Liberty’ waged war on the ‘Hun’,
The lights went out in Europe for a long time to come.

Who would rise victorious from this cauldron of madness,
Halt tolling bells from their mournful sadness,
Both sides face defeat with a generation lost,
Because No one envisaged a great war at such cost.

Ultimately, death to old Europe is the final result
Who will modernise, rebuild it, and who is at fault
Emotions were mixed over who was to blame,
But war to the elite is little more than a game

A moment of madness lit the touch fuse to war
Belgium first subjugated breaking peace treaty law,
Then France sacked and ruined in a 4 year assault,
Until finally a railway carriage brought war to a halt

Now Autumn guns fall silent across the land,
Their deadly action powerless without command,
Soon, trees will grow tall again in wooded glades,
And poppies bright red to mark fallen comrades

So the war was really over, like a new gift of life
No more waterlogged trenches amid winter strife,
Thank God for an end to those dreadful 4 years,
No one else will die now, no more burials and tears

But that’s little comfort to the young men who fell
Sent from many nations to this place they call hell,
They’ll never know this euphoria, for they are all gone
Rotting in foreign battlefields a long way from home.
By Robin Moore

New titles for order will include other pilgrimages, charity endurance
events and expeditions abroad.
Walking guides in Cornwall will include a new book for the Spring entitled Gwennap Walks, comprised of short circular trails showing insight into this idyllic region. Other local titles which include The Cornish Pilgrimage Trail, Gwennap Pilgrimage and St Piran’s Trail are available for purchase from the Cornish Library, Redruth.

EXPEDITIONS
I am currently planning a Pilgrimage to Santiago and Muxia prior to Easter.

HERE’S WISHING YOU GOOD HEALTH AND HAPPINESS THROUGHOUT 2018
Take and God Bless You All!

AUTUMN NEWSLETTER – 2017
A mixed Summer, after a dodgy flu jab rendered me powerless for 6 months, I was able to participate in a couple of Pilgrimages and numerous short walks in Cornwall throughout the Spring and Summer Months.

FUNDRAISING IN THE NENE VALLEY
THE OUNDLE PILGRIMAGE
The Oundle Pilgrimage went well and our new guide based on the new Sue Ryder Fundraising Trail published by Rick Murphy (co-founder of the Oundle Pilgrimage) and myself is both interesting and informative. I was also fortunate enough to publish the St Pirans Guide and St Day Feast Walk in time for both the walking events which helped raise funds for our Cornish Hospices too. As well as Sue Ryder Thorpe Hall other charities to benefit in the Nene Valley from the Oundle Pilgrimage are Prostate Cancer UK and Cancer Research Oncology Unit Peterborough Region. Presentation anticipated sometime in November 2017.
For those interested in joining future annual pilgrimages or following the more extensive Pilgrimage Discovery Trail to explore the Nene Valley should visit our website: http://www.oundlepilgrimage.org.uk

FUNDRAISING FOR CORNISH HOSPICES
Sadly my mother is very infirm these days and I am her fulltime carer which restricts my participation in expeditions – I miss those 1000 km walks!
All the same my walking band and I have chipped away at accumulating miles to these worthy causes. We intend to do another walk for the Children’s Hospice followed by live music at Carharrack Club hopefully within the next 6 weeks.

I haven’t walked all the Cornish Pilgrimage this year but have sponsored and organised the Harvest Auction for Cornwall Hospice Care as a means of increasing the fundraising purse.

HARVEST AUCTION
We have a harvest auction at the Coppice Inn, Lanner in honour of Cornwall Hospice Care on Saturday October 7th at 7.30pm followed by visit from the Cornish Choir who will be entertaining us that evening. At this stage I’d like to ask the public if they could donate some produce/gifts to help make the event a success; please contact either the pub or myself if you can help.
The Coppice Inn: 01209 216668.

BOOK RELEASE – ‘A Pilgrimage to the Somme’
This book forms part of a trilogy of WW1 expeditions completed in the last couple of years. We intend to donate to War Museums and sell all publications online with Amazon. The latest edition is now imminent and could be distributed locally around the time of Remembrance Week.

The last of the Spring Walks culminates with our St Feast Day Walk in honour of Cornwall Hospice Care on Sunday 24th June at Star Inn, 11am, Vogue (after the Ale Festival)! For more details check out:

Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On FaceBook/Youtube

Robin Moore’s Community Walks On FaceBook

The Piran’s Walk for Children’s Hospice Southwest; see details below:

Part of the Feast Day Trail near Pink Moors

Join us at Carharrack Club this Bank Holiday Weekend for Beer Festival and Sunday Morning Walk for Children’s Hospice Southwest. The local St Piran’s Trail officially starts at the church though we will be meeting at the club around 10.30am, and walking the 5-mile route via Pink Moors, Mount Ambrose, Vogue and Wheal Damsel.
VENUE: Carharrack Club
TIME: 10.30AM
DISTANCE: 5 MILES
TERRAIN: EASY
REGISTRATION: Participants will register for £10 which will entitle them to a colour guide booklet of the walk. All proceeds go to the charity And we hope to provide a certificate of achievement for those who have walked and raised funds for this worthy cause..

COMPLETEDEASTER SUNDAY WALK AND LIVE
ENTERTAINMENT
Join us for a walk along the Gwennap Pilgrimage for Cornwall Hospice Care followed by evening band – CROSSFIRE 69 – 8pm onwards.
(Search Facebook – Crossfire 69)

A 10 mile circular walk which forms the Gwennap Section of the Cornish Pilgrimage

VENUE: Start and Finish at The Coppice Inn
TIME: 10am
DISTANCE: 10 miles
ROUTE: Following an independent circular route which forms part of the Cornish Pilgrimage, the journey takes in tram roads, woodland trails and public footpaths/byways between Gwennap Pit and Gwennap Church. There is mixed terrain but plenty of ‘pit stops’.
INNS: The Star Inn, The Fox & Hounds, Carharrack Club and the Coppice Inn.
ENTRANCE FEE: £5 covers your pilgrim passport used to collect stamps along the way; a Gwennap Pilgrimage booklet; and certificate of achievement. Entrance can be paid on the day at the Coppice. Guides are available there also and at Redruth Cornish Library; St Day Post Office and Gwennap Pit (if it’s open!).
EVENING ENTERTAINMENT
Join us for live entertainment with CROSSFIRE 69 from 8pm. As it is a charity evening we invite the public to donate to the Cornwall Hospice Jars at the bar. Please support a worthy cause!
Sponsored by Robin Moore and Keltek Brewery
Www.robin-moore.co.uk
For about the Cornish Pilgrimage visit: http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
To view and read about Robin Moore’s expeditions visit: Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Facebook

Tresavean Tramroad which once formed a section of the Hayle Railway

SPRING WALKS
NB We will also be walking The Gwennap Pilgrimage on both May Bank Holiday Sunday’s at the same time; a post will be published. And we anticipate a good social evening at the Coppice after. The St Day Feast Walk will take place on the Sunday after the Vogue Ale/Music Festival at 11am.
All walks support Cornwall Hospice Care.
PLEASE SUPPORT A WORTHY CAUSE – you are welcome to join us on our walks or perhaps make a donation to one of our Pilgrimage CHC jars. In fact any loose change throughout the Spring will help build better facilities for those who need them most.
THANK YOU AND HOPE YOU HAVE A LOVELY EASTER

]]>https://charitywalks.wordpress.com/2017/04/12/spring-walk/feed/0robinmoore1958The Feast Day TrailWALKING TO THE END OF THE WORLDhttps://charitywalks.wordpress.com/2017/04/01/walking-to-the-end-of-the-world/
https://charitywalks.wordpress.com/2017/04/01/walking-to-the-end-of-the-world/#respondSat, 01 Apr 2017 16:10:23 +0000http://charitywalks.wordpress.com/?p=1083The Complete Diary
THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO TO FINISTERRE
Day1 (Getting there)!
Heading off on a new adventure which begins Saturday afternoon at 1430 from Redruth to Paddington; with excursions later to Liverpool Station and Stanstead Airport, I finally reach Santiago de Compostella at 1530pm on Sunday. Santiago is an iconic world pilgrimage centre and final resting place of St James. Attracting travellers from all cultures the place has inspired many great journeys usually finishing at the Cathedral. The bus ride into town evokes a hint of nostalgia as part of it revives fond memories of walking there in a previous decade, (once from the French Alps, and a year later Portugal). However the experience failed to recall all the vital geographical layout of the city itself, and I made hard work of finding my pre-booked accommodation. Also the new Pilgrim Administration Centre beyond the Cathedral Praza proved allusive amid a spectacular hub enjoying the late afternoon sunshine. At least I manage to find my favourite Tapas location at Bar Charra nearby, and Hotel Monte (previously a Pension owned by a friend called Maria). Better still, I have my credentials for the journey tomorrow, which unlike all other caminos, will start at the Cathedral. From here I will be walking to the ‘The World’s End’ at Finisterre, the rock-bound peninsula on the west coast of Galicia.

Day 2 Santiago to Negreira
As predicted for the time of year, it is a wet start to the day at the Cathedral which is an altogether quieter scene compared to yesterday’s furore. Begining my Camino to Finisterre at Rua Das Hortas I set out along the last remaining commercial outposts as far as a small park where a trail is formed through the woods.

The transition from city to countryside takes only 2km and before long I cut a solitary figure traversing muddy terrain along wooded lanes and escarpments.

Passing an orchard I see two female pilgrims accompanied by dogs; they pause momentarily as one of the animals takes a drink from a nearby stream. We exchange greetings in Spanish though they look more Scandanavian than of native origin, and a moment later I begin a sharp ascent by road to the next mile stone. Feeling hot and thirsty I am fortunate to find a cafe, Caso de Xantar amid the wild unspoilt countryside. With a sense of relief I sit for a while enjoying some tapas kindly provided by the barman.

After refreshment, I continue my camino along the thoroughfare of what appears to be a small community.

Passing through the village I am joined by a young Italian female who is also walking to Finisterre; she completed the St James Way last August, and is presently on a travelling holiday after working in London and Ireland – a stark transition that must have been!

We walk for an hour, managing to get lost twice but enjoying the ambience of woodlands that have so far shaped the journey. We part company on a steep section where the young maid decides to have a break. Beyond here I endure a wet climb through another forest pass; as monotonous as it may sound it is at least more palatable than the diet of dual carriageway served up on my last tour of Europe. Emerging at the little community of Pontemaceira I cross the magnificent 15th-century bridge spanning the Tambre River. There is a hotel nearby, but although under the siege of wet weather, I choose to continue my quest enjoying the exuberance of running water below that adds vitality to the walk.
By 2pm I am entering the Province of Negreira, the busiest place since leaving Santiago and a natural pilgrim sanctuary too.

Finishing at the Albergue La Mezquita in the centre of town, I pay 30euros for B&B and promptly enjoy a glass of beer with some more tapas before winding down for my evening meal.

Day 3 Negreira to O Logoso
It is barely light when I set off, leaving via the medieval-looking arches of Pazo do Coton (actually 18th Century) which is possibly the most characterful site within this modern-looking place.

The route is taken up first by road until devoid of urban life; then I follow a woodland path with some steep ascents which help to clear out the winter sinuses. In the course of the morning I hear wood-cutters toiling in the forest, and later when joining a link road, I see other walkers ahead making their way to Finisterre. In the distance on the highest points are windmills providing energy to the smaller isolated communities that still exist in these obscure parts.

The Camino interacts occasionally with the road bringing with it the solace of a cafe allowing a chance for rest and refreshment. At Vilaserio I meet a Portuguese Pilgrim called Diogo Friases Coelho who is looking to reach his destination by Wednesday; that’s do-able I feel, and I need to aim for that too in order to obtain transport back to Santiago once the walk is completed.

But this seems an age away with more exacting terrain ahead as I make off to meet the challenges of a long afternoon. The wind blows fiercely here and I can picture the Atlantic swell that lays in wait; the pilgrims who made this journey in ancient times would have been in awe of Finisterre.

I notice there are more sections of road since leaving Vilaserio and yet the places en route are diminutive compared to Negreira. Out here it seems to be the responsibility of the farmers to run the Pensions/Albergues which ensure pilgrims obtain a night’s shelter.

On descent into Lago, a great lake dominates the scenery to the right; it occupies my gaze for several kilometres finally giving way to a lovely ornated cemetery near to Olveiroa and yet more beautifully built corn granaries and stone houses.

There are good amenities in this quiet little corner of the world’s end, and although tempted to stay, the trail beckons me towards another forest ascent.

Back on higher ground, the camino offers stunning river views as fast-flowing water occupies the chasm below. Rolling through the woodlands, the stone track eventually runs into an Albergue at the small hamlet of O Logoso. I can’t stop as there is no receptionist nor guarantee of a meal, and by chance I see a sign to a restaurant uphill from here where I feel there is a better prospect of a replenishing stay. A farmer stops by in his tractor and tries to persuade me to backtrack to the Albergue, but it is too late as I have ‘the bit between the teeth’ and need to reach this destination.
It turns out to be a good decision and on reaching the road, I locate the Restaurante Bar Pension A Pedra where two Spanish Ladies take care of my needs. Then after supper I am invited for a walk with them to their most famous landmark, Pedra Cabalgada. I have been dry all day, but the excursion back along the camino is met with prevailing wet weather as we struggle beneath wind-swept umbrellas. The site is an iconic natural beauty forged from rocks which has become a well-known landmark for the travelling pilgrim. So popular in fact that the local Albergues provide mini tours for those staying at their premises. It transpired to be an interesting end to a long day which left only the prospect of a glass or two of ‘Vino Tinto’.

Day 4 O Logoso to Finisterre
Today serves up a dull, wet start to accompany tired legs induced from yesterday’s effort, and I am in fact the last to leave the premises. Another pilgrim left half an hour before me and after joining the path beyond Hospital I saw a cyclist and 3 other walkers. Stopping to take in the many religious monuments along the way helps break up the monotony of walking and severity of the early morning tempest which is thankfully short-lived. The route is comprised of country lanes and woodland cuts which are substantially solid and well-demarcated. It holds water a bit in some places but the diversity it offers up makes it a natural catalyst for adventure.

Eventually the Camino begins its decent towards the coast affording panoramic views of the Atlantic ports that lie ahead. As the path continues to tumble into Cee and Corcubion one can begin to marvel at scenes of historic medieval architecture of white windowed balconies and terracotta rooftops. These are lively market towns steeped in modern amenities and it is hard to imagine that they are almost in reach of the world’s end. Life goes on and so must I; with less than 20km to walk I grab a coffee, gather some water and continue along slim lanes and alley ways above these thriving communities, capturing unspoilt views of the stunning coastline. On leaving Corcubion a steep path begins at a huge large arrow which takes me away from the coast for a while, testing the legs in much the same way as the North Coast of Cornwall does. It soon flattens out and later joins the road again as the journey takes in Sardineiro, the last built-up outpost before reaching Finisterre.

Beyond here a mix of coast road and path provide further descents finally settling by the beach where the fierce wind stings my nostrils with the scent of the sea as it wafts across the Camino. The path is slated in places interchanging with a board walk near to the shore to break it up a bit. And soon I am closing in on the built-up suburbs of Finisterre where hotels promise paradise at a small price; generally speaking it is very cheap to stay any where along the way which is a big hurrah for athletic tourists who combine their fitness hobbies with travel. We all need a worthwhile challenge in life to recreate ourselves and this experience takes one away from the wider world that continually chases the ‘mighty dollar’.

The walk to ‘the end of the world’ seems eternal for a while and then realise I have actually passed the finishing line a few kilometers ago! Only do I gain this knowledge at the lighthouse, Faro de Cabo Fisterra which really is conclusive! The ancient pilgrims would have loved this – well up until Christopher Columbus came along and quelled many of their aspirations of where the world ends. So, I end up feeling a bit more tired than expected, but have gained at least an extra few miles and stamp on my pilgrim passport. Despite the presence of many visitors I still find a place to stay and into the bargain am awarded a free certificate for my effort – I think I’ll come again!

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELLA
Pilgrimages are made here from France, Portugal and different parts of Spain; it can be walked from Italy and Switzerland too. In fact many pilgrimages exist throughout Europe (Fatima is a good example), usually linking up to reach the ultimate destination of Santiago.
This imbibing city attracts many visitors throughout the year who enjoy the elaborately carved stone buildings and grand plazas opening up from the Cathedral. Here the joy of life is celebrated throughout the streets in tapas bars, mini arcades and souvenir shops where the flavour of different cultures adds its own special recipe for fun.

‘A Delightful Stay’
HOSPEDAJE SANTA CRUZ
C/ Rua do Villarreal, 42
TLF: 981582362
Having finished my Camino I needed a place to stay on Friday night as my hotel was fully booked and could not accommodate me. By chance whilst perusing the lovely Rua do Villa I stumbled across a delightful little Pension with beautiful wooden floor and stairwell. On reaching the top I was cheerfully greeted by Maria who offered me a room for 21euros; it had a double bed, sink, wifi, heating and good light with tall Windows opening out onto one of my favourite alleyways. It had everything I needed for a comfortable stay and boy do I love the imbibing hub of Santiago with its endless rows of tapas bars and restaurants.
To me it is one of Santiago’s best-kept secrets though guilt has got the better of me so I feel it only fair to share my find with other pilgrims who I hope will benefit from this lovely, clean and authentic acommodation. Enjoy your stay!

Hotel Manoupa
For those seeking hotel accommodation and not too fussy about Windows, I would highly recommend this one for 24euros (lowest booking rate); an extra 5 for breakfast. It is clean with good amenities and breakfast bar.

Mental start!! Several hours of walking round in circles – nobody has a clue where the French border is let alone a pedestrian route there! Thankfully a young lad stops and pulls out his mobile Sat/Nav. and thanks to his intervention all is well as I progress to the border via Carouge. At dusk I camp in a field which lies between the river and road – freezing cold and a few hours after settling I have a police visit. Thumbling in the dark for my passport amuses them and after commenting on my accent they leave me to shiver for another few hours.
Camping on wet mud gave little comfort and at dawn I continue my walk as far as an hotel where the proprieter offers me a free breakfast. We chat for awhile and in between serving her customers she sorts me out with a decent route in the form of ´The Famous Camino de Santiago´ – many of these paths I have walked before during my travels around the continent.
Day 2 Charly to Frangy
A 2-mile hike from the hotel leads to Charly where there is in fact a Gite dÉtape for pilgrims – a hostel for pilgrims providing a free bed and stamp for your passport. From here I set off up the steep, muddy lane which I´m glad to say is clearly marked. From a height of 760metres the pilgrim route – GR65 takes in La Motte, Charnouy and Contamine-Sarzin. Despite being very damp and muddy – similar to conditions you´d expect in the UK right now, it became warm once away from the cold wind that is prevalent in this stern mountainous region. By 3pm I come to a standstill at Frangy and book into a hotel for 35eu – at least I can enjoy a ´policeless´peaceful warm night´s sleep.
Day 3. Frangy to Chanaz
The Swiss alps continue to dominate the landscape bringing the cold winds which dispel any thoughts of camping. The terrain remained muddy and a steep rural blast between Le Grand Pont and Syssel is enough to blow out the cobwebs of a good nights rest.
The afternoon session encounters the small places associated with Le Bourget du Lac, and at Pont de la Loi I am overtaken by an equestrian group. There were many cyclists too – largely following the National Cycle Route which at times interracts with the Camino de Santiago. There is a pleasant river section that leads to the village of Chanaz which seemed like a good point to break off for the day. At the Gite de Chanaz I pay 10eu to camp but in fact spent most of the night in the warm changing rooms where I am able to get a few hours sleep – frost suggests it is still too cold for camping!
Day 3 Chanaz to St Genex Region
Leaving around 7am, I manage to purchase a coffee at the village and then I make my ascent away towards Yenne – 18km. Pausing momentarilly I capture the mountains poking through the mist evoking yet another scene of unvisited beauty. As the cold air disperses it becomes another glorious day but I have difficulty in obtaining food and water as shops are scarce in this region. As the afternoon drifts on I get tired and thirsty – often knocking on doors to obtain water from locals. The mountain route was desolate and at times unforgiving – winding throughout the forest where snow lay all around. Eventually I descend from Mount Tournier yet there is little that ressembled a community let alone a shop – only the churches remain prominent here. On my next ascent I stop at a solitary cottage which was in fact a guest house still closed for winter season.
The lady, Annie stopped her painting chore to refill my water bottles and on hearing that I planned to camp suggested I stayed at the cottage – this was a far better option to camping and although not yet open and heated it was a great comfort to me and Annie was very kind ensuring I was well nourished after a gruelling day on the GR65.
Day 5 Guiers-Cotenvert (Annie Latge) to Voiron
It would be another month before Annie can expect visitors walking the Camino most of whom hail from Austria and Germany, so she was happy to stamp my pilgrim passport and acknowledge me as the first walker of the ´season´- God Bless her.
After a lovely breakfast at Annie´s I made short work getting to Saint-Genex-Sur-Guiers and was soon walking up the river bank to Aoste where fishermen were enjoying a calm sunny morning. The Camino route proved difficult to follow at times and in the afternoon I found myself on the cycle route which led me on a massive excursion to Les Abrets which should have been just 5 km away and yet took nearly 4 hours to walk! Unhappy with this and not certain of the direction to Lake Paldeau I completed the evening section on road as far as Voiron where I camped rough on a farm track just beyond town.
Day 6 Voiron to St . Hillaire-du-Rosier
Happy to continue by road today, I would endeavour to rejoin the camino either St Antoine-lÁbbaye or Valence where the path follows the Rhone for the remainder of its course.
After walking 13 hours yesterday I feel tired – not helped by another cold, sleepless night. It is quite hot today and I stop frequently for coffee and water, as the sun nears the top of the mountains I enjoy a tiny little knap at a picnic park between Teche and St Sauveux. Passing St Marcellin I take a wrong turn but thankfully realise and retreat and make good in the final hour. At St. Hillaire du Rosier I see a small hotel along the thoroughfare and am lucky to stay there for 30eu.
Day 7 St Hillaire to Valence
Continuing my journey along the remainder of the D1092 I enjoy a warm morning to Romans sur-Isere where I change route and now walk the cycle track beside the N532 dual carriageway. It is slow progress to St Marcel-les-Valence as I set off in search of another great city. As the road winds through the city I take time to explore and photo the prominent landmarks. After obtaining a geographical fix on my exit across the river to the opposite bank where I can join the Camino to Arles, I retire to the Lyon Hotel where I pay 38eu for a room.
Day 8 Valence to Cruas
A bottle of vin rouge and a good night´s rest was all I needed to recupperate and once across the river I was soon stepping out on the camino route along the Rhone to Beauchastel. It remains warm with an added presence of equestrians and cyclists, who as locals probably frequent the route daily. There was a solitary boat along the river and after the morning stint I stopped for coffee at a club-style cafe where the jukebox played ´We´re all living in America´! After ´´feeling chilled´´ out by that experience I continue my journey to Le Pouzin which is shared by towpath and road.
Everything converges on this place and the session that follows takes me to nightfall and I am lucky to stay at the Cruas Campsite which lies on the Camino Route which is only a few metres from the river bank.
Day 9 Cruas to Bourg St Andeal
It was another night in the changing rooms I´m afraid as the evenings here are still cool, unlike the day which is always full of promise. The first part was a bit misty as I encounter the EDF Power Station. I get lost a few times trying to get beyond this point but once on course I put in a good stint to Le Teil. It was a less enjoyable affair to Viviers where at least I got some provisions for the evening.In the heat I try to focus on the chalk clifs which obscure the Rhone and as the chill of night draws in all was at peace once again. I saw freight trains pass by all day and walked through concrete towns -´literally´ – places that have evolved from the cement industry which now provide a strong economy (at least 3and 1) and good foundations too – I hope! On reaching Bourg I get a room at a local hotel and enjoy a meal of bread and cheese which I managed to buy at the last town.
Day 10 Bourg to Laudin
Using the cycle route I walk on to St Just where I have coffee and Raisin bread for breakfast. At Pont-st -Esprit I sit on a bench and enjoy a picnic and then take photos of a statue which commemorates the local men who fought in the Great War. The nearby Abbey sees me on the way again with a few signposts for Arles to add momentum. At Bagnols I run into trouble trying to follow the Camino de Santiago to Laudin and I find myself on a circular cycle route which puts pay to the evening session. By dusk I find a lonesome hotel in the region of Laudin and call it a day. I was glad of the room but the wine I ordered cost me 20eu!!
Day 11 Laudin to Graveson
A tough day now beckons in order to make up for the previous bad evening session and this time I will see it through along the road. I am able to use the hard shoulder and make light work of Avignon but walk round the town a couple of times so as to be sure I was on the correct route to Arles. Looked more like a motorway but was in fact a modern dual carriageway which eventually diminished into the usual bog-standard secondary route which at times can be a bit too narrow. After collecting provisions at Graveson I walk on to a peaceful location beside the canal and set up camp just before dusk – it was lovely – and warm for a change.
Day 12 Graveson to Arles
Good sleep and a great start – no traffic until reaching the industrial outposts of the ´modern Arles´´. A kind lady treats me to breakfast at her hotel and later I spend time exploring ancient Arles. I was so captivated with its charm I spent the night there and got my coach to Spain on Monday instead where I immediately started a 5-day walk from Valencia to Alacant which would take me to completion of a continuous circle of walks around the country! Read more soon -will also be publishing on EBOOKS later in the year, walks on the continent will be available in this section.

WALKING IN SPAIN
Day 1 Valencia to Cullera
Commencing a new adventure in Spain around 7am, I first had to find directions how to get out of Valencia. A road sweeper assists and soon I am walking the underpass which runs through the city gardens. When I run out of city and foot path a young maid points me in the right direction and soon I emerge at a narrow lane next to the motorway. I run into some gypsies who were less helpful but a local guy confirmed my route and I was soon on my way. It was basically a cycle trail weaving in and out of the smaller coastal places the first of which was Pelida where I stop for coffee. At the next stop the motorway becomes the CV500 which caters for allcomers making my journey into El Saler a straightforward one. Beyond here I have water to my right which is strange as I am walking the Mediterranean coast and it should be on the left! There are sluice gates ahead forming a dam, and I wonder whether it is a fish farm.
Later in the day I reach Cullera and get a taste of resort life which is the main attraction of this coastline. I sustain myself with oranges picked from the trees and decide to walk through the town.The idea paid off as I found both campsite and supermarket and spent a lovely peaceful evening there for just 7eu with only a family staying here at the top of the pitch.
Day 2 Cullera to Olivia Region.
I sleep well despite heavy festivities from a nearby saloon. The constant sound of explosions signal the advent of a bank holiday which the Spanish will celebrate passionately. The cool air was welcome as I eventually leave the town (there was tons of it!) and soon I joined the N332 coast road, my route for the remainder of the journey. By noon it is hot and there is a motorway section to encounter between Xeresa and Gandia. At Gandia I follow the coast road into Daimus and Olivia where the celebrations are at a peak. I had drunk youths driving motorcycles at me and then taking their hands of the steering bars, explosions going off all around and people barely able to walk because they had ´´over-celebrated.´´ It was great fun for most of us!
Leaving here the evening stretch became intense and inconclusive as I had lost a page in my map and unsure whether to take a detour into the next resort. I made the decision to camp rough behind some pine trees along the road rather than risk an unwanted excursion.
Day 3 Olivia to Culp
A sleepless night with dogs barking and traffic belting past followed by an early morning 12 km hike was not the tonic I needed to start the day. At Ondara I get in a mess with the motorway and have to start again to ensure I get on the right road as both are extremely busy at this point. The 2 roads cross at a toll gate and I am unhindered by the interraction heading off to an English Cafe where I stop for a chat and a coffee. From here the day drags on along winding roads- no Camino de Santiago here, though desolate sections remind me of the Otira Gorge in New Zealand which I walked last year.It is a change from the urban sprawl though still potentially a dangerous experience along the bends and the partially built bridges. By evening I enter the busy resort of Culp and am immediately overwhelmed by the spirit of tourism. Each road is a nightmare to cross and after purchasing groceries I escape to the scrubland beyond the town and pitch my tent beside some bushes. Although concealed a dog barks throughout the night!
Day 4.Culp to Benidorm Region
I felt warm and slept well despite the barking hound which I saw on leaving the scrub. I wasn´t even on his land which made me cross and I shouted at him before disappearing into the traffic flow.Straight away I find a cafe and enter for breakfast, coffee and a shave. It was a good interval and after paying my bill I left in search of Benidorm – not that I was gripped with enthusiasm or anything mildly excitable about coming here! Soon the towering flats emerge and I pass inumerable hotels with unpronouncable names! The landscape is dominated by rows of flats and on rejoining the road it seems more like a motorway which at least gave me the hard shoulder. And like a true ´man of the road´I stop to eat my lunch on a concrete plimp next to the crash barrier. Eventually I find a roadside cafe where I chat to a couple who had taken notice of my progress reiterrating that they thought it was a remarkable quest. Continuing a little further I find a newbuild village with a supermarket and with night drawing in I head into the scrub for another night of camping rough.
Day 5 Benidorm Region to Alacant
A few spots of rain troubled me little and by 7.30am I was on the road. Stopping at the first cafe I came to the English owner arrives on cue and lets me in while he cleans up after a party. He goes on to explain that he came out here to look after his dad and decided to buy a pub. He now feels that England has been ruined and turned into a ´Nanny State´´ and in any case has no desire to go back.
Does England have a future I ponder, but thank him for his kindness and from here I kick on to Compello where I have coffee and a muffin. I am now walking the boundaries of Alicante which takes up the rest of the morning. On reaching the city they had moved the Estacion de Autobus and so I had a longer excursion trying to find that, when I eventually found it – it was closed!! I return at night and manage to buy a ticket to Santander for 48eu and once there I can rest in my favourite hotel – Hotel Alisas who have looked after me since my travels began in Europe back in 2004. Anna has booked my ferry to Plymouth and so by Thursday I could be back in England – well Cornwall at least!

]]>https://charitywalks.wordpress.com/2014/03/23/walking-from-geneva-to-arles/feed/1robinmoore1958READY FOR ACTION!SAM_1569SAM_1567SAM_1582SAM_1606SAM_1643SAM_1622SAM_1658SAM_1746SAM_1766SAM_1786SAM_1790SAM_1830SAM_1855SAM_1856Spearheading MOVEMBER at the Coppice Inn.PILGRIMAGE TO YPRES – April 2013https://charitywalks.wordpress.com/2013/05/08/pilgrimage-to-ypres/
https://charitywalks.wordpress.com/2013/05/08/pilgrimage-to-ypres/#respondWed, 08 May 2013 20:19:57 +0000http://charitywalks.wordpress.com/?p=578WALKING IN HOLLAND AND BELGIUM (Finishing at Ypres)
DAY 1. EINDOVER TO POSTEL – 26km

Heading off along the N123 in Holland

Revisiting Europe at War in 1914, I endeavoured to walk from Eindover in Holland to Ypres in Belgium as my next expedition around the continent.
Starting at the Airport on arrival at 9am, I walked along the cycle routes away from the city via Veldhoven. I got confused with the town layout at times and in fact walked in the opposite direction until a lady set me back on course. Fortunately the locals were kind enough to provide good directions to the N123 my chosen route for the first 2 days of my walk. Having walked through a park I was able to join the road at Steensel and after crossing a road bridge I was able to keep to the cycle route as far as Eersel. Later I followed a forest route frequented by joggers and some cyclists and after a few miles I crossed the border into Belgium.
To celebrate I went for a coffee at a restaurant close by; here I spoke to a couple of German travellers who were cycling in the area. There were many routes crossing the forest here and the whole region contained cycle paths on each side of the road.

The Abbey Shop at Postel

Making good progress I arrived at Postel around 5pm and after enquiring at an inn about camping the landlord suggested I went to the Abbey to see if Father Nicolas could help. This I did and the father was very kind offering a bed and meals for my stay here at Postel. There was a group of Nuns here from Gwent on a Bible Study for 4 days and later we enjoyed supper together. The duty father spoke good English as did one of the visiting men also staying at the Abbey. They were all very kind and keen to hear of my travels in Europe particularly those to Santiago which I completed in 2006/07. It was a lovely peaceful place with the tranquillity broken harmoniouslyy by the melodic chimes of the church bells. There were deer grazing in the grounds and a shop nearby which sold produce made here at the abbey. Before retiring I returned to the inn to thank the landlord for his good advice and help. It was one of the best places I have ever stayed at and I was grateful for a good night’s rest having forfeited sleep yesterday to obtain an early flight this morning.

DAY 2. POSTEL TO NOORDERWIK – 42km

Having enjoyed a good breakfast to get me on my way I said my farewells to the nuns and thank you to the Father before passing through the grounds one last time as I strode off in search of the N123 and my next day’s walk in Belgium. What an adventure! Soon I was crossing a canal at the next town called Retie and as the morning evolved the sun brought temperatures of 22 degrees. I stopped for coffee at Kastererlee and despite a blister made good progress from here to the larger province of Herentals. This was a complicated section and after receiving instructions from a young group at a nearby garage, I continued along the cycle path which followed the main roads where traffic was bound for Antwerp and Lier. I could have followed the river bank to Lier but in the end opted for a village route via Morkoven. Arriving at the next village around 6pm, I decided to make use of the local campsite as there were not too many facilities along the way. I was told that camping is forbidden here in Belgium which sounds a bit stronger than ‘no tents please!’ Any way after paying the owner 9euros I had secured a night under the stars and once set up I returned to the centre for a meal and a drink at the local pub where the lovely English-speaking maid told of her desire to travel to New Zealand. On this subject I was highly qualified to give her a few tips and after an interesting hour I retired to a much-earned rest.

DAY 3. NOORDERWIK TO MERCHTEM – 58km

Starting early, I continued my quest which would hopefully cover about 60km as far as the town of Merchtem. The first part of the day took in the smaller villages including Heist-op-den-Berg and later I joined the N15 where I negotiated Putte and later the busy large town of Mechelen. Wandering through the pedestrian centre I was able to admire the beautiful citadel and religious buildings and stopping at a café I was able to enjoy a conversation with a local lady who also advised on the best route out of town. It was actually very straight forward and on continuing along the main street to the railway crossing brought a natural exit from the place. After passing over a bridge I stopped for some bread and cheese by the river at Hornbeek where a few cyclists sped past following the path beside the bank. It was nearing teatime and I noticed a greater surge of traffic as I continued my walk through the villages of Lorderzeel and Steenhuffel; later a young lad explained where I could buy some food. By 9pm I had cleared the town of Merchtem and making my last call at a local shop where I was able to buy my supper. The girl was Asian and spoke excellent English explaining she had a sister from Birmingham who she visits once a year. She also gave me some bread and told where it would be safe to camp without intrusion.
Just beyond the railway I located a paddock and the rough ground where she suggested I camped; it was great and even my neighbours – a couple of horses added their voice of approval!

DAY 4. MERCHTEM TO WATEGEM – 62km

Rising early it was a touch misty as I left the railway behind and continued my journey along the N211 to Aalst. It was raining at this stage and I was a bit confused as to the junction to take for the N46 which was my route to Oudenaarde. Fortunately I was able to obtain directions at a café and continued my walk as far as Burst where I sat and enjoyed a yogurt and banana. This was destined to be another long enduring affair that would take me beyond dusk once more and so I did not hang around long. Most of the places from here were substantial and so I was able to enjoy a coffee along the way as I passed through Oombergen, Hundelgem; finally arriving at Oudenaarde around 6pm. It was quite a laboured affair passing through the town and once more having to locate the appropriate exit route. It was pleasant enough walking to Wortegem where roadworks at least stemmed the flow of traffic. Dusk was approaching as I trekked through the farmland broken by tiny communities that flickered like candles in the night. On nearing a forest in pitch black I looked for an opening where I could find a place to camp and by 9.30pm I found a suitable spot at the end of a riding. I could see a house in the distance near to what appeared to be an equestrian centre; at this moment in time all I needed was a few hours rest. Boy that was a tough day!

DAY 5. WATEGEM TO YPRES – 44km

Starting at 5am I rolled up a very wet tent and took to the road immediately. I negotiated a tricky section to the N43 but once on course I continued into Kortrijk where the town was still in the process of waking up on this sunny Saturday morning. At least I managed to get a coffee and from here had another tricky section to the outskirts of town where I followed the river path to Werelgem; from here the N8 saw me to Menen and Ypres Street which brought about the last act of this event.

As I walked the final outposts (last 20km) of the journey remnants of the Great War began to dominate the countryside and as Ypres came into view so did the grave stones of the men who fell protecting her nearly 100 years ago. There was a museum built by a trench on my right containing artefacts from the front line (probably worth millions); opposite lie the unknown graves of warriors who fought there. Further on to the left is Hill 62 where the Canadians fought a do or die battle only metres from the town. Finally my pilgrimage reaches its conclusion at the Menin Gate where I attended the Last Post. Later that evening I was joined by an Australian Vietnam War Vet called Andy and a few tourists from his home land also visiting the battlefields. One guy called Mark had been taken to a nearby farm by his tour guide and introduced to the land owner whose grandfather had fought alongside his own in one of those significant battles.

Part of the trench where they died was still intact serving as a poignant reminder of their sacrifice and yet more importantly this final resting place now evokes a sense of pride which two families can at last share. Mark will at least go home with the satisfaction that he had retraced his grandfather’s footsteps to his last moments in battle. It was just one of many fought in this region over a 4-year period and the thousands of names of unfound soldiers at the Menin Gate make it the most sacred place on Earth to a British soldier.

It was a special evening and after saying farewell we promised to return for the anniversary parade of 2014. Shortly after I retired to my tent for one last night under canvas before travelling across France to the ferry port of Roscoff and ultimately, on Monday, the journey home to Cornwall.

]]>https://charitywalks.wordpress.com/2013/05/08/pilgrimage-to-ypres/feed/0robinmoore1958Heading off along the N123 in HollandThe Abbey Shop at PostelSAM_1414SAM_1417SAM_1421SAM_1423SAM_1425SAM_1427SAM_1430SAM_1433SAM_1433