I am a new member and am looking for other owners of the Roadtrek Ranger RT, 2013-2014. I tried to message the two owners who posted previously, but only once each, without success. I hope it is okay if I put his message in more than one place, attempting to insure that it will be seen. I can't be the only person who has one!

One of the questions that might come up about the Roadtrek Ranger RT at this time of year will be how to handle winterizing the Eemax electric water heater.

At the top of the 2.5 gallon Eemax electric water heater where the cold water inlet and hot water outlet are there should be two bypass valves (some RV's have three valves for the bypass). You'd need to turn those two valves (or three valves) to their bypass positions. I haven't seen a Ranger RT so I don't know if it has 2 or 3 valves.

Then you'd need to disconnect (unscrew) the cold water inlet and hot water outlet pipes from the water heater and remove the water heater then take it outside the RV and empty it by turning it upside down or on its side - whatever works.

Once the water heater is empty it can be reinstalled but leave it unplugged and bypassed and attached a note to the cord indicating that the water heater has been bypassed and there is no water in it. If you accidently supply power to the empty water heater you will burn out the heating element.

Hi There, I have a Ranger RT. I just winterized the hot water heater. Very easy to do.

1. Turn the 3 bypass levers. They are under the driver's side "ottoman" under the table storage. The compartment is hinged. You will see the two lines going into the closet. There is a lever on each hose and one a third that is a line running between the two lines. Turn the lines into and out of the closet to the "off" position (lever not in line with the line) and the line connecting the two, to the "on" position. You have just bypassed the water heater and cut the flow into and out of the heater.

2. Turn on your hot water faucet for a second or two to relieve any pressure. Then unplug the heater. Now simply unscrew the two fittings at the water heater in the closet. Have a towel handy should you have any spillage, which I did not.

3. This is the only part that had me slightly confused but couldn't be any easier! Simply lift the water heater straight up along with the pressure relief pipe which only goes a short ways into the hole. Then empty the heater by tilting it over - mine had quite a bit of mineral deposits which means I may do a mid-season dumping next year. There is a little hook on the wall that the lines that come into the closet the simply holds the water heater upright and a strip of wood on the floor to also keep it in place. Very simple. The water heater with the 2.5 gallons of water in it weighed maybe 25 pounds. You will be lifting it straight up and out of the closet, so if you have a really bad back maybe recruit someone for that step. It isn't heavy, but a funny angle when you first lift.

Instead of putting it back in the van I just set it in my basement for the winter and plugged the hole in the floor with some steel wool to keep critters out.

I've had a Ranger for about a year. I've been pretty disappointed with the quality of the conversion. The water heater was one issue. It seems like a poor decision for R/T to make you actually remove the unit to winterize the vehicle.

Another issue are the location of the inverter/charger, it's impossible to see it. You have to do everything by feel and mirrors.

I've had issues with the cabinets. And with the locks on the cabinets. And the shelf over windshield had some sharp screws sticking up through the wood which cut my hand.

The radio/CD player is pathetic (and was installed poorly). We can't see the screen day or night. Plus the UI is weird.

The sewer pipe is so low that you have to lay on your back to work on it. If there is any sort of curb at the dump station it doesn't drain properly. And the pin holding in the storage tube broke off.

On the other hand the mileage has been terrific. I get almost 20 mpg at times when it's all highway miles. It's pretty quiet for a van.

Thanks for the water heater removal directions. I'll try it this year. I just filled everything up with pink stuff last year. That worked but it takes a long time before you get rid of any trace when you are using hot water.

I don't believe there is a specific Ranger owners manual. Major oversight by Roadtrek in my book - 70+k and no accurate instructions?

The sewer pipe is pretty low, but I added Timbren's up front and an extra leaf in the rear - brought me up around an inch - huge difference! Also am hoping to get some springs up front and level it out with some blocks in the rear - should bring me up about 2-2.5 inches total which would eliminate most issues.

The water heater instructions were verbal from Roadtrek and literally took a few minutes at most, much easier than the water heater draining on my travel trailer.

I may be naive, but what are doing to the inverter ( and more importantly should I be doing ?

Can you elaborate on the cabinets, as I would like to be on the lookout.

Mileage has been incredible in ours as well,I am beyond pleased. I really like the van!

The Trip-Lite has quite a few indicators that I could see would be very helpful in monitoring the electrical system. In the event of a problem even more helpfull! Plus the users manual for the Trip-Lite indicates that you should switch it to CHARGE MODE if you are not using the R/T.

I've had problems with the cabinet door latches being either too tight, so the doors don't latch, or too loose, so the doors rattle. In addition the water heater closet door latch has been a continual problem. I could not open the door for a while. After the last fix the door rubs on the frame slightly when you open/close it. Not a big deal but it will eventually wear a spot in the molding.

Maybe I'm just picky but you would think that after all the RVs they would have this stuff down pat.

The Trip-Lite has quite a few indicators that I could see would be very helpful in monitoring the electrical system. In the event of a problem even more helpfull! Plus the users manual for the Trip-Lite indicates that you should switch it to CHARGE MODE if you are not using the R/T.

I've had problems with the cabinet door latches being either too tight, so the doors don't latch, or too loose, so the doors rattle. In addition the water heater closet door latch has been a continual problem. I could not open the door for a while. After the last fix the door rubs on the frame slightly when you open/close it. Not a big deal but it will eventually wear a spot in the molding.

Maybe I'm just picky but you would think that after all the RVs they would have this stuff down pat.

That's a bummer. I haven't experienced those issues. I have had two propane regulators go bad, one driving home from the dealer and one while on a trip.

I have become convinced that things break, and for me it seems to be somewhat frequent regardless of price paid.

The 2004 190P I owned had the Tripp-Lite inverter/charger under the rear bunk and it didn't have a remote switch. I used to turn the switch on the inverter to "charge only" when we were done using the inverter after watching TV etc. One of the first mods I made to that RT was adding a switch to make that easier.

Tripp Lite sells a remote switch for their inverters. It is part # APSRM4. If your model inverter lists the APSRM4 remote switch as an option then you can either install one or should be able make a basic switch for maybe $5 to $10.

A lot of great information! Glad to see some other owners for some help. I notice, when reading forums, that people have added airbags, suspensions, new tires, etc. to their Roadtreks and wondered has anyone improved their Roadtrek Ranger with any of these ideas. I have had problems keeping the Ranger on the road, unless I am on a straight, flat highway. With a full tank of gas, it leans to the left and, I often have the sensation of its turning over. I have read that some of the Rangers were put on a 3500 chassis and wondered if my 2500 chassis is the problem. Has anyone else had steering problems or feeling unbalanced on the 2500 chassis?