Understand

The name Siem Reap literally means "Siam Defeated". These days, however, the only rampaging hordes are the tourists heading to the Angkor Archaeological Park. This once quaint village has become the largest boomtown and construction site in Cambodia. It is quite laid-back and a pleasant place to stay while touring the temples. It is a nice compromise between observing Cambodian life and enjoying the amenities of modern services and entertainment, thanks to a large expatriate community. Since Siem Reap is a major tourist destination, prices in some instances are higher than elsewhere in Cambodia. Expect to receive almost constant offers for motodop and tuk-tuk rides, along with everything else which drivers may be able to offer to you.

Be sure to pick up your free Siem Reap Angkor Visitors Guide and the equally free and useful Siem Reap Pocket Guide from your hotel/guesthouse. It contains lots of info on Siem Reap and the Angkor Archaeological Park, including hotel/bar/restaurant/shop info, travel info, and maps. For the eco-sensitive tourist, check out "Stay Another Day: Cambodia," a detailed guide with local spots that support the environment and community. Another address is the ConCERT [2] tourist office, a local NGO committed to raising the standards of responsible tourism and ecotourism activities and providing information on the causes and effects of poverty in Cambodia, volunteering opportunities and ecotours.

APSARA (the acronym is based on the French for the "Authority for the Protection and Management of Angkor and the Region of Siem Reap" and also the Sanskrit for a female spirit of the clouds and waters in Hindu and Buddhist mythology) has a very informative website detailing the history and architecture (in 6 languages) and endorsed by the recently deceased King of Cambodia: [3]

Get in

By plane

Departure Tax
The International departure tax of US$25 fee is included in the ticket price. The $12 Domestic departure tax is still paid at the airport. Try to pay in cash as the credit card facilities are unreliable.

Siem Reap International Airport [4] (IATA: REP, ICAO: VDSR) is the second largest airport in Cambodia. Its modern architecture is based on the traditional Khmer style. Its facilities are limited. There are separate terminals for international and domestic flights.

The airport is around 7 km from the town centre. Prepaid taxis cost US$7, see the prepaid booth just outside the terminal. Prepaid tuktuk rides for slightly less are also available. Thrill seeking solo travellers without much baggage can save a few dollars by opting for back of a motodop for US$2. Most hotels offer a free airport pick-up if you've booked in advance.

By bus

Try to book at least the day before travel. Travel agents and guest houses will do this for a US$1-2 fee. Buses tend to leave in the morning or early afternoon. There are also night buses on some routes.

Many buses terminate at an out of town bus station to the east of Siem Reap, from where tuk-tuks are needed to get into the town. This should cost no more than US$2, or maybe US$3 if you're not keen to drive a hard bargain. Anything more will have your driver thinking you are a weak-willed idiot, rather than the generous, naive optimist you perhaps consider yourself to be.

If arriving from the west, consider getting off the bus as it passes through town on National Highway 6, say as it crosses the bridge over the river, before it reaches the bus station. If arriving from the east you have little choice but to face the touts.

Capitol Tours buses, however, terminate at the company's office in the centre of town, near the old market, making them the most sensible choice.

International services

Laos

Be wary of the sleeper bus from Siem Reap to Vientiane. A second payment may be sought for travel onward after stopping for the border crossing. Unscheduled trip delays and an unexpected change to a different service may occur on-route. Be alert to issues of personal security and watchful concerning your possessions and luggage, especially whilst sleeping.

Thailand

To Bangkok: The ticket is valid for the whole journey but you will change buses in Poipet (US$8)

From Bangkok: Agents in Kao San Road offer tickets to Siem Reap from 300 THB.

Vietnam

By boat

A more expensive and more time consuming option from Phnom Penh ($35, 6 hr) or Battambang (US$20-25, 5 hr) is to take a Soviet style Hydrofoil across the Tonle Sap lake. These can be fantastic trips giving you the opportunity to view life on the lake, floating houses, working fishermen, and to get a sun-tan if you choose to sit on the roof of the boat. However, the trip can be ruined due to bad weather. Remember to use sunscreen and take a waterproof jacket. You will not be always able to access your luggage during the journey (sometimes the baggage is available, sometimes it is not). If you have the time, it is better to visit the floating villages as day trips from Siem Reap than to see them from the boat.

By shared taxi

The quickest method of getting from the Poipet border to Siem Reap is a shared car. A four seater car costs US$25-45, depending on your bargaining prowess, and takes 2-3 hr. Even if you're travelling solo, it shouldn't be too hard to find others to share the expense.

By helicopter

Helicopters can be chartered to go nearly anywhere in the country. They seat 5-6 people. Prices start at US$1,000 for trips to some of the temples north of Angkor Wat. Companies include Helicopters Cambodia and Helistar Cambodia.

Get around

Travel to and around the Angkor Archaeological Park is extensively covered in its own article. The following is a discussion of travel with Siem Reap.

On foot

The city centre is fairly compact and flat.

By bicycle

The White Bicycles, ☎+855 92 332 730, [7]. Well maintained bicycles can be hired through various guest houses affiliated with this local charity that uses hire proceeds to fund youth education and clean drinking water projects in villages around Siem Reap. The website lists location where the bikes are available.US$2/day.

Many guest houses will lend you bicycles either for free or cheaply (US$1-3).

By motorbike

Motodops (motorbike taxi) abound and will make sure you know where they are. Rides within town should only cost US$0.50 or 2,000 riel, although prices can double at night or during bad weather. Agree a price first. Full day can be arranged for ~US$10. Helmets for passengers are rare though may materialize if requested in advance.

Renting a motorbike is prohibited for foreign visitors to Siem Reap, though motorbikes rented elsewhere are permitted.

Petrol stations vary from first world forecourts to roadside stalls selling fuel of dubious quality in old drinks bottles.

By tuk-tuk

Tuk-tuks, like motodops, will call to tourists from nearly any street corner.

A trip within Siem Reap should cost US$1 regardless of how many people pile on. Most tuk-tuks can convey four people comfortably though the extra weight can make the low-powered bikes laboriously slow. Prices can double at night or during bad weather.

Ensure both you and the driver are in crystal clear agreement on the destination and total fare before departure. Payment is made on arrival and doesn't increase if the driver got lost or had to take a circuitous route.

By car

Cars with drivers can be hired for single or multiple days. While all drivers are familiar with the area and happy to suggest good routes, most speak little English and are not actual tour guides. Licensed tour guides charge US$45-US$50 per day for a driver and English speaking guide. Drivers will likely ask for US$5-US$10 extra for trips to further temples such as the those of the Big Circuit, Banteay Srey and more for remote sites like Beng Mealea.

The taxis (US$7 fixed cost) from the airport to Siem Reap proper may provide a full day of touring for US$25-30.

Siem Reap Transport Service, Siem Reap, [8]. A private tuk-tuk and car service providing transportation within Siem Reap and around the Angkor Wat temples. Private cars also available to and from Phnom Penh.

Siem Reap Mister Theavy Car Service, Siem Reap, [9]. Angkor Tour and Guide Service provides you with a typically Khmer friendly and welcoming chauffeur service. With 15 years of experience, Mr. Theavy will kindly drive you around Siem Reap area, will organise pick up from Siem Reap airport, will guide you through Angkor Temples, and will tell you about his incredible personal story during the Khmer Rouge era.

See

Most people come to visit Angkor Archaeological Park, which is thoroughly covered in its own article. The town itself has some worthwhile attractions and a number of beautiful modern Buddhist temples.

The reclining Buddha at Wat Preah Prom Rath

Piles of mines, Landmine Museum

Angkor National Museum, 968 Charles de Gaulle Blvd, ☎+855 63 966 601 (info@the-anm.com), [10]. Daily 8:30AM-6PM. Exhibits covering the history of the Angkor complex as well as Khmer culture and clothing using high tech displays and video screens. Some say the 1,000 Buddhas room is as impressive as it sounds.US$12.

Wat Bo, Cnr Samdech Tep Vong St and Street 22 (East side of the river. Follow the road that continues from over Wat Bo bridge). One of the oldest temples makes a nice contrast between the oldest and the glittering new ones though it the rough artwork wouldn't match the craftsmen of Angkor. The architecture of the ramshackle open air hall next to the main building blends French style arches and balustrades with Thai influenced Buddhist details. A forest of chedi surround the main hall, inbetween frangipani trees and some fine topiary.

Wat Preah Prom Rath, Pokambor Ave. The glittering modern temple grounds gives a few hints to its 500 year history. Though the lotus themed architecture seem to emulate temples from over the border, the front gate integrates Bayon style heads and a scene in relief of the Buddha seated under a tree, while armies fire arrows on one side and others are eaten by crocodiles on his other, that looks like it could have been taken directly from Angkorian mural. Legend holds it that the site was established around 1500 when a famous monk landed ashore on a piece of his sinking boat. The boat wood was carved into the oddly foreshortened reclining Buddha installed in a swimming pool like pit behind the imposing, yet despondent looking, seated Buddha in the main hall. Perhaps mimicking the construction materials origins the reclining Buddha has taken on a sunken slant at the feet end. A pair of small weather worn cannons on either side of the hall are of unknown origin but their style, an embossed crown-like seal and mysterious numbers suggest a European origin.

Do

Activities

Angkor Wat Putt (Mini Golf Fun For Everyone), Khnar Village, Chreav Commune (2 km from Old market vai Angkor High School road), ☎012 30 23 30, [11]. 08:30-23:00. 14 hole Miniature Golf Course with 9 accurate replicas of the world famous Angkor Temples. Including Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, Bayon, Banteay Srei, Preah Vihear and the Terrace of the Elephants. The course is set in a large, well maintained garden with a bar and seating area.$4-7.

Shooting Range, (along Road 67 to Banteay Srey, 3kms north of the road to Phmon Bok, turn right down the large dirt road when you see a blue and red sign like their flag with '4th Troops Training Centre', past the school and take the left (1 km), look for the sign 'shooting range' at the 2nd base entrance on the right (720 m)). Armament and explosives availability apparently is only limited by how much you are willing to spend. Listening to the soldiers-turned-used car salesmen put the hard sell on a new machine gun is almost worth the trip. This is a true game of Russian roulette - fancy pulling the pin of a 30+ year old grenade and possibly getting the faulty one? Make sure that whoever is supervising you is also willing to stand next to you. It can be a little bit difficult to find, and a tuk-tuk driver may know where it is. Its GPS location is 13°29'7.49"N 103°57'22.78"E.US$50 per AK-47 or M-16 clip; US$80 per M-60 belt (50 rounds) (Nov 2011). Grenade throwing: US$30.

Lex Roulor Tattoo Shop, In the Xbar, at the end of Pub Street, ☎+855 97 304 2827, [12]. 10:00-18:30. Lex Roulor's Tattoo Shop Siem Reap features a French artist with a personal and professional approach to each project. European hygiene standards. Interesting combination of Western old school style and traditional Khmer designs.

Cooking classes

Beyond Unique Cooking Class, cnr of Sivutha Bvld and Alley West, ☎+855 77 562 565, [13]. Cambodian Cooking Classes in a village location 10 min from town. Classes include a visit to a local family and information on Cambodian cooking customs and beliefs. Hands on classes for a maximum of six people - unless you book for a private group.US$22.

Smile of Angkor, Smile of Angkor Grand Theatre (Angkor COEX) (North east outskirts of Siem Reap, direction to Angkor turn right to Apsara Road), ☎+855 63 655-0168, [16]. 19:15-20:25 nightly. A lavish production of Cambodian traditional dances equipped with multimedia large screen, featuring Angkor civilization. Grand epic show that revives the Angkor dynasty in all aspects; from foundation to prosperity, tale to folk customs, past to present. The performance expresses the traditional Cambodian culture with the latest technology.US$38-48.

We Are The Champions Performances by the Local Disabled Community, Night Market (back of Night Market adjacent to Island Bar), ☎+855 12 676826. M-Sa 20:30-21:15. A two act play written and performed by participants who share with great feeling what it is like to be disabled in Cambodia and the challenges of their lives. As many of the performers are in pursuit of education to better their lives they appreciate donations of school materials such pens and writing books.Free, Donations encouraged.

Massage

The Khmers believe that Thai massage is derived from Khmer massage but is more relaxing as it requires less twisting and turning. The numerous Khmer style massage shops are mostly (and this means "mostly" as oil massages may lead their hands to wander...) genuine massage and not a front for sexual services. If you feel unsure what type they will give you, a safe bet is to opt for one of the blind massage services. The trained masseurs are the real deal. Some are inside the night market. But as of April 2012, contrary to common beliefs, blind massage services DO OFFER special massages too.

Fish Massage, (around the Pub St area). The Thai fad has swum over the border. Dip your feet in a tank of fish and wince as they eat the dead skin off your toes. Trying a tank with feet already inside it will tell you if the fish are hungry. Some claim to have No piranhas while others offer a free beer to subdue any doubts.$1-2 for 15 mins.

frangipani spa, no. 615/617 Hup Guan St, Siem Reap, Cambodia, ☎+855 (0)63 964 391 (info@frangipanisiemreap.com), [17]. Wonderful spa with a nice atmosphere, peaceful rooms, and experienced staff. The massages actually feel like trained people are giving them. No special services or hidden fees. It is a nice place to go as a couple or alone. They have massage tables and air conditioning. They are on a short side street behind Samdech Tep Vong St which isn't always shown on tourist maps. At the ANZ Royal bank on the corner go a few feet south to the next (small) street and turn right on Hup Guan St. The spa is near the end of the street with a tasteful exterior surrounded by frangipani plants (partly obscuring their tasteful green sign saying "frangipani").$25-$50.

Lemongrass Garden, 7 Sivatha Boulevard, Siem Reap, Cambodia, ☎+855 12 387 385 (lemongrassgardenspa@gmail.com), [18]. Lovely little spa with a relaxing atmosphere and experienced staff. 60 minute Khmer massages are $10, while 90 minute Khmer massages are $15. They also offer oil massages, "spiritual massages," and manicures/pedicures. Treatment rooms have air conditioning, and they provide a cool drink before treatment and warm tea afterwards. They also claim to pay higher wages than most places in Siem Reap, as well as provide other benefits to their workers.$10-30.

Orphanage visits

Some travellers feel visiting an orphanage is a good way to make a positive contribution to Cambodia, while others feel that orphanage tours do more harm than good. The largest child protection group in the country has asked that tourists not visit orphanages--the great majority of Cambodian children in orphanages have living parents, but the tourist demand for orphans results in these children being separated from their parents.[19] Whichever view you hold, orphanages and the aid organisations that support them are a significant feature of the Siem Reap economy. Many are scams, so it's worth doing a bit of research on them beforehand.

Cambodian Children's House of Peace (Santepheap Orphanage), No.004 Phum Mondul 3, Sangkat Slorkram (turn right off of Charle De Gaull Blvd, just after the SOS School), ☎+855 92 407 077, [21]. 7:00 Sunday. The Cambodian Children's House of Peace (aka Santepheap, which means Peace in English) is an orphanage in Siem Reap responsible for over 30 children. The children of the orphanage put on a traditional Khmer Dance show every Sunday night from 7PM-8:15PM to highlight traditional Cambodian culture as well as draw attention to the orphanage in general. *COFCO The Cambodian Orphan Family Center Organization is an orphanage in Siem Reap responsible for over 30 children. The children dance there in the 3 evenings a week to amass funds to finance their orphanage. The children welcome you and show you their house. The visit is followed by a show of traditional Khmer dance performed by the children, in coloured costumes. A snack is served during the show. There is no fixed price for this event, but a contribution is appreciated. The children distribute advertisements about the event in the evening at the market. It is an opportunity to converse with young Cambodians. It is also possible to volunteer at the orphanage to help teach the children English. The director can be contacted through the website to arrange any volunteering ahead of time. No experience is required other than being fluent in English. Free.

Festivals

Angkor Photography Festival: Photography for Change, [22]. Annual festival that showcases outdoor projections and various exhibitions around Siem Reap of regional and international photographers. The festival is held during the last week of November every year, consisting of 7 evenings of outdoor projections and more than 10 gallery exhibitions across various venues in the city. The festival is the first of its kind in Southeast Asia and is also the biggest. It aims to highlight the work of Asian photographers and provides free workshops for 30 young photographers from the region every year, led by world renowned professionals, which are showcased during the event. There is a full time office/gallery for the festival located on the East river road near the Bopha Angkor Hotel. As well as the festival, the organisers support a local NGO working with street children, that promotes the arts and runs a photography course with students. Photography from these students is also showcased as part of the festival programme.

The Water Festival. This vast festival is probably the most extravagant festival in the calendar. Over three days starting with the last full moon day in October or the beginning of November up to a million people from all walks of life from all over the country flock to the banks of Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers in Phnom Penh to watch hundreds of brightly coloured boats with over 50 paddlers battle it out. The boat racing dates back to ancient times marking the strengths of the powerful Khmer marine forces during the Khmer empire. In the evening brightly decorated floats cruise along the river prior to and complimenting the fireworks displays. there is often a parallel festival at Angkor Wat and although it is smaller in scale it is just as impressive due to the backdrop of Angkor Wat. The festival marks the changing of the flow of the Tonle Sap and is also seen as thanksgiving to the Mekong River for providing the country with fertile land and abundant fish. It is at this time when the river flow reverts to its normal down stream direction. The remarkable phenomenon that is the Tonle Sap sees the river flowing upstream during the rainy season and then change direction as the rains cease and the swollen Tonle Sap Lake empties back into the Mekong River leaving behind vast quantities of fish.

The Annual Street Puppet Festival. An exciting pageantry with the concept of sticks and stilts manipulated puppets much like those seen at the opening ceremony of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics and also at the Trinidad & Tobago Carnival.

Buy

As elsewhere in Cambodia, US Dollars, and to a lesser extent, Thai Baht are preferred over Cambodian Riel except for the very smallest purchase. Using Riel for small purchases can be better than using dollars as retailers tend to round up US$ prices.

International ATMs in Siem Reap are plentiful and most banks will do cash advances from credit cards.

Art and craft

Artisans d'Angkor, Stung Thmey St, ☎+855 63 963 330, [24]. 7:30AM-5:30PM. A workshop in the city centre. Showcases traditional Cambodian handicraft skills such as wood and stone carving, lacquering, gilding and silk painting. Visitors are conducted on a free guided tour where they can see the craftsmen in action. The boutiques display the many items produced. Tours available in Khmer, English, French, German, Spanish, Japanese and Chinese.

Bloom Bags, cnr Street 7 & Hospital St, [25]. Sturdily made totes, messenger and and laptop bags made from recycled fish feed sacks. Though you can buy cheaper knock offs from the market, these are genuine and you can be assured that your money is going to woman who made you bag.

McDermott Gallery, FCC Building, Pokambor Ave, ☎+855 12 274 274, [27]. 10AM-10PM daily. Elegant, friendly gallery with photography of Angkor by John McDermott, called "the Ansel Adams of Angkor" by the New York Times. Also McDermott Gallery 2, on the passage between Pub St and the Old Market with world class photography of Asia by severeal different artists. Art buffs will want to pick up a copy of ArtVenues, a free guide to the galleries of Siem Reap.

Theam's House Gallery, Veal Village, Khum Kokchak, ☎+855 78 20 81 61, [29]. 8AM-7PM daily. The gallery exhibits paintings, designer-made artworks created by the artist-designer Theam Lim who has studied at Ecole Boulle and Ecole Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, together at Paris. Theam's House gallery and atelier are located in the house of the artist, built by himself inspired by the Khmer rural architecture surrounded by a luxurious and tropical garden.

Beverage

Sombai bottles. Only local drink produced in Siem Reap, Sombai is made from rice wine infused with local fruits and spices. It comes in 8 different flavours: Ginger-red chilli, Mango-green chilli, Pineapple-lime, Anise-coffee, Lemon-lemongrass, Green Tea-orange, Galanga-tamarin, Banana-cinnamon. Sombai bottles are beautifully painted and hand-decorated by local artists, reproducing the views of temples, the Cambodian countryside, Tonle Sap Lake and its floating villages as well as Khmer statues. It is available in 70cl and 35cl. contact@sombai.com. Sombai

Psar Chas (Old Market), Between Street 9 and Hospital Rd. A range of artifacts and tourist junk. Some items purport to be antique, but it probably isn't, and if it is, then most likely it has been stolen.

Central Market, cnr Sivutha Blvd and Achamean St. Has an eclectic collection of clothes and trinkets. Don't forget to bargain. Most stalls carry the same selection so you can shop around and find the cheapest price.

Others

iOne (Apple Authorized Reseller), 1776 Silvatha Blvd (near KFC), ☎+855 63 761 019, [30]. 9AM-7PM. Cambodia is possibly the cheapest place to buy a Macbook or iPod. Prices are in US dollars at same rates as in other countries but there is no added tax.

D's Books, #82 Hospital St (a few doors north of Street 7). An extensive selection of poorly organised novels to exchange with the one you just finished reading. Generally the books here are in better condition than other places in town, though many new books are simply pirated photocopies that they sell for $6. A few shelves of books in languages other than English can be found.Most novels $7.

Eat

Eating options span the full spectrum of tastes and budgets from the rudimentary Asian staples and pizza to authentic Khmer and sophisticated fine-dining featuring exotic local ingredients. The highest assortment of restaurants are in few blocks north of the Old market but there are numerous appetizing alternatives along Wat Bo Road and hiden among the surrounding neighbourhoods.

Old market area

Though Pub St is better known for its bars a handful of places are known for great food, many with seating upstairs so you can escape above the partying milieu on the street below. Crammed along The Alley is a wider selection of restaurants that offer a generally quieter and more intimate experience. The local restaurants lining Phsar Chas have extensive yet near identical menus of cheap fried rice and westernised approximations of Khmer dishes. At dusk the Kindergarten on the corner of Street 8 and 11 erupts into a a rabble of small BBQ stalls, billowing smoke, noise and the persistently entreating peddlers. The phnom pleurng here is the cheapest you will find.

Fresh at Chilli Si Dang (Fresh), East River Rd (next to City River Hotel), ☎+855 17 875 129. 7AM-2PM. Beautiful riverside garden out of the hustle and bustle. Local and western food, play pool, relax on the balcony and use the free WiFi with sunset views. Friday quiz, Saturday BBQ, Sunday roasts, specials everyday.US$3.

New Delhi Indian Restaurant, #070 Mondol 1, Svaydangkum Commune (opposite the provincial hospital north of Pub St), ☎+855 16 840 326, +855 92 510 779, [32]. Indian dishes on the menu with many Indian specialties. All their dishes are authentic and prepared to order.From US$4.

Maharajah Restaurant (Royal Indian Cuisine Halal), Sivatha Rd (Old Market Area , Front Of Terrasse Des Elephants,), ☎+855 92 506 622, [33]. 11AM-10PM. Fresh, hygienic and authentic preparation. They use real Indian spices and most of the food is Halal. Take-away or home delivery is available.US$2-7.

Mother earth Restaurant (Fresh, organic middle eastern Cuisine), a07 Sivatha Rd (near Angkor market l), ☎+855 63 966-236. 10AM-10PM. Fresh, organic, home made and healthy. All ingredient for the kitchen are claimed to be from organic farming, they serve great salads, hummus, falafel, shakshuka, and kebab, all home made, fresh and healthy. Kidush every Friday at sunset.US$2-5.

McBuddha Restaurant, (Off Sivatha Blvd, on the road that goes to Artisans d'Angkor), ☎+855 97 967 7223 (chiveassna@yahoo.com). Open seating, and the restaurant is run by a local Khmer family who serve everything with a warm smile. The owner used to be a tuk-tuk driver, he speaks English and can give you tips on places to see. The menu is extensive with Khmer and Western offerings, all cooked to order.US$2-7.

The Purple Elephant, Soksan Rd (Head straight up Soksan Road, over the cross road and continue about 200m, on the left), ☎+855 978402873 (tommybeardsley@hotmail.co.uk). 11AM-late. Thai restaurant and bar. It's a little out from the centre, but worth the walk.$1-5.

Makan Makan, 137 Themey Village (Same entrance as The Pool and Palm Villa, 300 metres from BBU (Build Bright University), ☎+855 77 359 677. Halal kitchen with Khmer and Western dishes. The name Makan Makan comes from the Malaysian/Indonesian word for eating. Fresh food and no MSG usage. Popular for lunch and dinner in combination with swimming in the infinity pool with waterfall. Swimming and use of towel free if you spend $US5 per person in the restaurant. Pool open until 9 P.M. Friendly staff.US$3-6.

Viva, Cnr 2 Thnou St & Street 9, ☎+855 17 838 854, [39]. A bright orange Mexican restaurant. Burritos, enchiladas and quesadillas are reasonably authentic considering the location. They have some Khmer dishes if you want to eat more local food while enjoying the view over the balcony. This restaurant usually has a fair number of people in it while most restaurants are empty. $2 for a margarita, $5 for what they call a 'bucket', which is a weiss beer glass filled with margarita and a much better value. Pizza here is only moderately tasty.US$2-8.

Khmer Kitchen, Central Market. This restaurant is one good option to eat variety of Khmer food with a reasonable price.

Splurge

Aha, The Alley. Lunch 11:30AM-2:30PM, Dinner 6PM-10PM. The stylish interior with Khmer and international dishes. Some say the taste doesn't quite meet those standards but where else can you eat dried snake in such surroundings.US$7-18.

The Red Piano, Pub St. 2 floors and serves a variety of Italian and other European food with Britney Spears music videos in the background.

L'Angelo, Le Meridien. Probably Siem Reap's most daring restaurant, serving fusionesque Italian cuisine like foie gras on a bed of white asparagus and balsamic vinegar ice cream in a setting so achingly modern that the only decoration is a cloud of black dots on the white wall. A full meal with a glass or two of wine on the side costs around US$100 for two.

Le Malraux, Sivatha St. French cuisine and Khmer specialties, all made with local and fresh products. Central city location that opens early in the morning for breakfast.

Meric at Hotel de la Paix, Sivutha Blvd. Acclaimed by some as the best Khmer restaurant in all Cambodia, it is set in a chic hotel with a minimalist modern feel. The chefs source the freshest and strangest) ingredients to build their multi-course seasonal menu (US$31++ optional wine pairing US$16++). A typical set will include dried snake salad and grilled frog. Arrive before 9:15PM for the 4 course fixed price Khmer meal with wine selection. Sit in airconditioned comfort, or outside tables and lounge furniture. The hotel also has a modern bar with local art displayed.

Wat Bo Road and surrounding areas

Outside of the main part of town in the sometimes dusty neighbourhood streets and area along Wat Bo Rd are some trendy restaurants and small local places serving the most authentic Khmer food.

Budget

Green Star, Wat Bo Rd (at the southern end of Wat Bo Rd, on the terminating street), ☎+855 9 225 5241. Some say it's not the most authentic Khmer or Asian food though it is tasty and well prepared. That they support the Green Gecko project might be enough to convince you to patronise them..US$2-6.

Madam Beergarden Under Construction (Under Construction is part of the name), Wat Bo Rd (across from Soria Moria Hotel), ☎+855 89 479 593. 11AM-2PM, 5PM-midnight. Thai and Khmer food in a nice atmosphere. Enjoy the garden or sit inside in funky environment. Cocktail, draft beer and soft drinks are served with lunch and dinner.US$1.50-5.

Silk Lounge, Taphul Rd (Southern end. Opposite The Villa Siem Reap). 7AM-10PM. The menu might be short but the flavour and presentation of their Cambodian and pan-Asian dishes wont leave you feel like you misses out on anything. The Cambodian curry, Singapore chicken rice and beef soup are recommended. The daybed style lounge seating is ok if you are limber but they have some regular tables if you prefer to eat sitting upright.US$2-4.

Viroth's Restaurant, #246 Wat Bo Rd, ☎+855 12 826 346, [41]. Stylish Khmer restaurant that is often so full you will have to wait for a table. The extensive menu is a mix of Khmer and Asian-esque dishes and with some vegetarian options. Some say the food is not spicy enough but the outdoor setting is nice if it is not raining.US$5-8.

Splurge

Alliance Art Cafe, Wat Damnak Rd, [42]. In a French colonial building built in 1953, on the former grounds of the French Cultural Centre. The cafe offers both French and Cambodian dishes within an art exhibition space. US$6-18 but the food is good and it has a very stylish ambience. A good choice for a romantic meal or a business dinner.US$15-25.

Drink

The distinction between eating and drinking establishments is fairly blurry as even the most humble of restaurants can have an extensive cocktail list on their menu. Nonetheless, a vibrant drinking scene concentrated along Street 8, aptly dubbed Pub St, is where serious drinkers head for cheap beer, loud music and the sweaty backpacking hubbub scene akin to Bangkok's Khao San Road. The biggest and most well known Pub St bars, Angkor What?, The Red Piano, Temple club and Le Tigre de Papier, are easy to find.

Visitors looking for more subdued place to appreciate a quiet drink can seek out some of the smaller places along The Alley, The Lane and the adjoining streets.

Most places have draft Angkor beer for US$0.50 and cans of other brews for US$1-2. Cocktails and spirits go for as little as US$2. Imported red and white wine, generally from the less prestigious wine producing countries, is widely available and cheaper than you would expect. Better quality Australian and French wines are available in more upmarket establishments at a correspondingly premium price.

Bars

A few drinking holes offer a bit more than cheap drunkenness.

The Alley

Linga Bar, The Alley. A sophisticated gay bar that welcomes patrons of all preferences. A good list of classy cocktails and decent wine to enjoy on the big lounges.

Sports Bar, The Alley (Western end). More than just a sports bar, with free pool table and 3 large HD TVs. Great place to watch rugby and football. Expensive drinks.

Pub Street

Soup Dragon, Pub St. A restaurant/bar on one of the corners of the "bar" street in the old part of town. Great sunset vista from their rooftop with the added bonus being it is the same time as happy hour - two for one cocktails, drinks range from US$2-4.

Banana Leaf Cafe, Pub St. Small contemporary street side café, with week-end live music. Efficient and professional staff will entertain the crowd until late hours. Great cocktails.

Xbar, Pub St, [43]. 3pm til sunrise. An open air rooftop bar featuring a 6ft skateboard halfpipe, jam sessions every wednesday evenings, live Djs and bands every week and a resident Tattoo shop with a French artist. Probably the best city views in town, and unusual sunset over the halfpipe. At the end of Pub Street, look up for the X.

Around town

FCC Angkor, Pokambor Ave (North of the Post office), [44]. A branch of the legendary Phnom Penh Foreign Correspondents' Club, the FCC is the hippest place for a drink. A blend of modern style and colonial architecture with fairly steeply priced drinks, at least by Cambodian standards.

The Warehouse, corner Street 9 and 2 Thnou St (opposite the Old Market), [45]. 10:30AM-3AM. Three floors of different styles. The ground floor tends towards raucous times while the 1st floor offers free pool, Nintendo Wii, a large flat screen tv for sporting events and a table football table. The rooftop has a chic lounge atmosphere. Free draft beer offered at various times on Friday (with an Angkor Wat ticket), though courtesy dictates you have a drink or two before or afterwards or dine from the food menu.

Nomad Shisha Bar, Artisans d'Angkor Street (Opposite of Artisans d'Angkor beside Ladybug Guest House), ☎060 870 112 (nomade_mtl@hotmail.com), [46]. 6pm until late. Other than the attractive woodland creature-like French Canadian man who owns this bar in the heart of Siem Reap, other reasons for visiting would be the seductively Arabic tent style decor – all gauzy drapes, velvet covered floor mattress seating, and the first shisha menu in Siem Reap.

Sleep

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:

Budget

US$5-30

Mid-range

US$30-100

Splurge

US$100+

A seemingly inexhaustible range of sleeping options from upmarket hotels to grubby backpacker hostels, with a myriad of guest houses, boutique rooms, bungalows, concrete cells, wood huts and French villas in between, make finding a place to sleep one of the easiest things you will do on your trip.

Hotels are spread over the entire city but most larger hotels line the National Highway to the Airport, cheap backpacker hostels tend to surround the old market area and stylish boutique hotels are nestled in the trees along Wat Bo Road. Small Khmer run hotels and guest houses, especially in the low season, can be surprisingly good value if you are willing to do a bit of hunting for one that hasn't been overrun by the guidebook toting hoards.

Accommodations at every price point generally offer hot water showers, cable TV, internet and airport or bus pickup. Some may include free breakfast, though don't expect much more than an egg on toast and a coffee.

Green Town Guesthouse, Street 21 Wat Bo Village Salakomrouek Commune (from airport take Highway 6 to Siem Reap, pass two traffic lights, turn right at the roundabout, cross the first bridge over the river, turn left across the river and take the first right, the guesthouse is 100 m on your right. From the bus station take road # 6 in Siem Reap, turn left at the first traffic light, then take the second right., the guesthouse is 50 m on the left), ☎+855 12 963749, [51]. checkin: on arrival; checkout: noon. Backpacker oriented but draws a wide crowd. Clean, relaxed atmosphere with bar & restaurant downstairs. Western & Cambodian menu. 10 min walk from town centre. US$6 gets a large room with high ceiling, open windows, fan, hot shower ensuite and 70 channel TV. US$10 gets the same with air-con. Wi-Fi throughout, free computers downstairs. US$4 dollars get a windowless box that at best has cold water. If you fall for paying much more than listed here (prices start high), they may give a free breakfast. Security guard. Tours, tickets and local transport also available.US$4-10. (13.358465,103.859785)

Siem Reap Hostel, 7 Makara St (near the corner of Wot Bo Road and Angkor School Road in the Wat Dam Nak area), (info@thesiemreaphostel.com), [54]. A comfortable hostel with air-conthroughout, including the rooms. Free WiFi, all rooms a balcony. Bar, restaurant, pool table, indoor swimming pool in the bar/restaurant area (clean but cold), yoga room, cinema style movie nights, pubcrawls every Sat night. Staff are paid commissions for selling tours and transport and can be pushy. The hostel has its own tuk tuk drivers whom are honest and speak good English. They can be booked for trips at reception, which ensures no overcharging or scamsDorm bed: US$8, double: $US30; triple: US$45.

Sweet Dreams Guest House, House 126 Wat Bo St Salakomrouek Commune (from airport take Highway 6 to Siem Reap, pass two traffic lights, turn right at the roundabout, cross the first bridge over the river, turn left across the river and take the first right, the guesthouse is 100 m on your right. From the bus station take road # 6 in Siem Reap, turn left at the first traffic light, then take the second right. Call for free pickup from airport/bus station/boat station/train station), ☎+855 92548600. checkin: Anytime; checkout: noon. Family owned guesthouse. Clean, relaxed atmosphere with bar & restaurant. Free computer & Free Wifi. Friendly staff willing to help with ticket booking and trips to Angkor Wat US$2: single room fan & shared Bathroom, US$4/5: single room fan & private bathroom, US$10: double room air-con & private bathroom. (13.358465,103.859785)

Budget

Angkor Saphir Hostel, (near Royal Palace and next to the stone bridge of Siem Reap River), ☎+60 3 5021-9379 or +1 408 663-9073 (reservations@angkorsaphirhostel.com), [55]. checkin: 10:00; checkout: 12:00. only 15 minutes drive from the Siem Reap International Airport and within walking distance to the Old Market. air conditioned with free breakfast.Single Room from US$18 Double Room US$20.

Bliss Villa, close to the Old Market in walking distance to bars, restaurants and the popular Pub Street and Pub Street Alley. (blissvilla@asia.com), ☎+855 63 630-0978, [58]. checkin: 12; checkout: 12. Air-con, Wi-Fi, Tour Services and Clean Rooms! This is a great spot slightly off of the tourist path but close enough to walk to everything. The rooms are clean and spacious, especially on the top floor and it is but a five or so minute walk to the street of pubs.$12+.

Golden Mango Inn, No. 0658, Road 6, Chongkaosou Village, Slorkram Commune (located along National Road No. 6, accessible by the slip-road next to the TOTAL Petrol Station), ☎+855 63 76185 (info@goldenmangoinn.com), [61]. checkin: 2 PM; checkout: 12 PM. A budget accommodation run by the Cheab family. Free services include pick up from airport and bus station, tuk tuk rides to the Old Market and Pub Street, bicycle use, daily breakfast and booking of bus tickets and countryside or Angkor tours. All rooms equipped with air-con, cable TV, mini-bar and hot & cold shower. Management and staff are cordial, competent and reliable. Other facilities include a pool, a garden, and a small bar/restaurant.$20-$30.

Home Sweet Home Guesthouse, 111 Wat Bo Rd, ☎+855 63 760 279, [64]. Large rooms with en suite bathroom. The decoration is best described as spartan and some visitors have found the cleanliness of the rooms and communal areas to be lacking.From US$9-20.

Mandalay Inn, (near southern roundabout at Sivatha Boulevard), [65]. checkout: noon. "Looks expensive but not" is written on the outside. Indeed, this centrally located hotel is rather a midrange one, despite its low price. Staff are very welcoming and helpful and the rooms are clean and cosy. Has Wi-fi & TV.fan-double: US$9.

Sam So Guesthouse, 164 Wat Bo Rd, (opposite Street 21), ☎+855 12 602956, +855 97 669 9813 (info@samsoguesthouse.com), [70]. All rooms are big, clean, and have a private bathroom with hot water, air-con or fan, large screen satTV and a fridge. Free WiFi and internet in the lobby. Run by Cambodian family, friendly, helpful and reliable staff. English, German, Italian and French are spoken. Various tours by arrangement. Free breakfast and free pick up.US$9-20.

Seven Candles Guesthouse, 307 Wat Bo Rd, ☎+855 63 963 380 (reservations@sevencandlesguesthouse.com), [71]. Run by the Ly family, comfortable clean rooms with private hot water bathroom, air-con, fan, and TV. 2 bottles of water daily. Laundry, onward transport bookings, and free Wi-Fi. The Ly family works hard on making education available to the children of rural families; volunteers with the Ponheary Ly Foundation often stay here. Four of the family are licenced Angkor Wat tour guides, speaking English, French and Russian. Breakfast is available for a small additional fee.US$20.

Temple Villa, (near southern Wat Bo road). checkout: noon. Spacious and comfy rooms with balconies in a calm atmosphere just 300m from the river. Wifi, Pool, TV. Air-con is about 5$ extra. However, staff is not exactly service-oriented, the restaurant is below average and the rooms sometimes smell.off-season fan-double: 10$.

Yellow Guest House, 363, Taphul Village, Svay Dangkum. Commune, ☎+855 12 275 848. +855 63 690 0297 (hotel_yellow@yahoo.com), [76]. Very clean and well furnished rooms. Staff speak English, as well as several other languages, including Japanese and Thai. Computers and internet in the common area and free Wi-Fi as well. There's a no shoes/flip-flops policy indoors, so the floors are kept clean. From US$3-16..

Mid-range

Central Boutique Angkor Hotel, [78]. Locally owned and operated. Clean, comfortable hotel, not too far from the centre of town, with western bathrooms, gardens and a pool. air-con rooms from US$29 with breakfast included.

The Cockatoo Nature Resort, ☎ +855 63 969 069, [81]. 7 rooms in a restored traditional Khmer house plus 2 Balinese-inspired grass-roofed cottages. Pool and lush gardens. Gourmet food served at main restaurant or poolside bar. From US$35 during low season (May-Sept). Best to reserve on hotel's own website; enquire for current promotional offers.

Men's Resort & Spa, ☎ +855 63 963 503, [84]. Located in the heart of Siem Reap. "male exclusive" gay hotel. The complex includes a boutique hotel with 10 stylish rooms, a large pool, a fitness centre, massage service and sauna/spa. Rooms from US$49.

The Pool and Palm villa, ☎ +855 77 359 677, [85]. Located near Build Bright University (BBU). The resort includes two villa's: Khmer-French style and modern with stylish rooms, a 17 metre long infinity pool, 8,500 square metre garden, restaurant. Rooms from US$ 38,- (low season) to US$100,- (familyroom with livingroom high season).

Shining Angkor Boutique Hotel, #560 Group One, Kok Chok Commune, ☎+855 63 963 096, [90]. 21 rooms. Free tuk-tuk service one way to the centre of Siem Reap daily. It is a ~US$2 per ride back. Free pickup by tuk-tuk from the airport, and free breakfast of cold bacon and over runny egg and toast. The staff is very friendly and helpful. Decor is traditional wooden furniture with Buddhist elements. Family owned.

MyHibiscus Hotels and Resort, Taneuy Street, Wat Bo Village, Sangkat Salakamreuk, [92]. The hotel offers deluxe accommodation in its airconditioned hotel rooms and two outdoor swimming pools. It is located 5 minutes drive from Pub Street and the Old Market.

Sokha Angkor Resort, corner of National Rd 6 & Sivatha Blvd, ☎+855 63 969 999 (info.sr@sokhahotels.com), [98]. checkin: 2:00PM; checkout: 12:00PM. A new 5 star resort in the city center with largest salt-water pool and state of art lobby. The resort has 6 restaurants and bars. Guests stay at this beautiful resort can process temple passes right at the lobby.US$140-$2,200. (13.364653,103.85641)

Suites and Sweet Angkor, Phum Krous, Khum Svay Daungum, ☎+855 63 761 490 (contact@suitesandsweet.com), [100]. If you can overlook the name the nine villas set in tropical gardens offer privacy and each of the suites face a traditional Khmer lake that includes a private pool with a wooden terrace.US$165.

The One Hotel, The Passage, ☎+855 12 755 311 (youaretheone@theonehotelangkor.com), [101]. About as exclusive as you can get the freestanding French colonial building has only one suite with street view balconies and a private roof top jacuzzi garden.US$250.

Stay safe

Siem Reap has long since been thoroughly de-mined.

Scams

Most local are decent people just trying to make an honest living but a few shady characters try every trick to take advantage of visitors. Be alert to deception, but don't let suspicion ruin your visit.

Convenience stores have been known to give incorrect change and pocket the rest. Check your change before you walk out of the store and point out any short changing. Most likely they will admit to their "mistake" and give you the right change.

Street vendors and beggars in competition for generous visitors' handouts have developed cunning, if underhanded, techniques to get your attention and money. The "beggar army" of young children will come up to you in the crowd and grab your hands, leading you to a store where they will then try and have you buy food/baby milk/water for them: baby milk seems the most popular. It might sound like a more humanitarian way to help than simply giving them money, but once you leave the shop the goods you bought for them are sold back to the owners, or to other locals and the cash goes to an adult. Young women with babies cradled in a krama perform a similar trick.

Donation-collectors for orphanages may approach you in the street claiming to be volunteer workers, showing you convincing photos of themselves in the orphanage and a clip board listing the generous donations made by foreign visitors. Though these young adults may be well groomed and speak excellent English it's possible that your donation will go directly into their pockets. A donation of money or your time to a recognised charity might be a better way to help.

Baby-milk scams may be encountered in the centre of town, outside supermarkets. A very poor looking woman will beg for some milk powder, pointing to her baby. If one cracks and buys the milk, she later returns it to the shop, and the money is split 50:50.

Stay healthy

Treatment

Naga Healthcare International Medical Center, 660, Hup Guan street (behind Central Market), ☎+855 63 761-295 (nagahealthcare@yahoo.com), [104]. Naga Healthcare works in a small consulting room close to the central market. Dr Joost Hoekstra is specialized in Tropical & General Medicine, Diabetes. We visited both the Royal Angkor hospital and Naga Healthcare, and I recommend the latter. Dr Hoekstra is really experienced and way cheaper than the Royal Hospital. A general examination was $120 at the Royal Angkor Hospital and 30 at Naga. Beside this the Doctor did not force me to take too many medicines.

Royal Angkor International Hospital, National Route 6, Phum Kasekam, Khum Sra Ngea, ☎+855 63 761-888, [105]. Owned by the Bangkok Hospital Group and caters specifically to tourists with a smart 4 star hotel-like reception area. Their care is not cheap, but it is of a very high standard. There is a fully stocked pharmacy, General surgeon, Orthopaedic surgeon, Paediatrician and other hospital services such as treatment for fractures and intestinal problems.

Contact

Internet

The numerous Internet cafés charge anywhere US$0.50-1.50/hr. Speed of connection, and speed of PC, very much depends from place to place. A free public WiFi network covers the Pub St and Alley areas but it can sometimes be spotty and always terribly slow.

E-Café, on Sivatha St, (north of Psar Chas), [106]. A cut above the rest in connection and service quality, as well as price.

Most hotels will have cable TV with many international channels such as BBC and CNN as well as those from surrounding countries. There are several FM radio stations, which includes the BBC World Service on 99.25MHz and Radio France International on 92.0MHz.

Cope

Laundry

Full service laundries can be found throughout town and most hotels and guesthouse will also take care of your laundry. The going rate is $1/kg. You may occasionally be able get it cheaper if you are willing to wait longer, in which case the laundries won't have to use the dryer. 3-hour services are frequently advertised, but rarely realistic.

Get out

Banteay Chhmar - the forgotten Angkorian complex in neighbouring Banteay Meanchey Province. A bit ambitous for a day trip by tuk-tuk but makes for a wonderful excursion by helicopter (about US$2,200).

Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre, Sanday Village (3 km before the Landmine Museum on the road to Banteay Srey temple), ☎+855 97 852 7852, [108]. 9Am-5PM. Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre is a community development project and tourist destination just down the road from the Landmine Museum and Banteay Srey temple. Revenue from admissions is used to pay families in remote villages who are farming butterflies for the exhibit. The project makes a real difference to the farmers' livelihoods and provides a wonderful experience for visitors as they can see spectacular local butterfly species flying close at hand in a beautiful tropical garden.US$4 adults, US$2 children (under 12).

Kampong Phluck

Kampong Phluk Floating Village, (off the Highway to Phnom Penh). This mangrove forest offers a much more authentic 'floating village experience' than the one close to the Tonlé Sap ferry harbour. This fascinating village on stilts can be reached by tuk-tuk from Siem Reap. During the dry season, it takes about 1 hour to reach the village, depending on the road conditions and water level. Depending on where you buy your tour, your haggling techniques and your initiative to book a tuk-tuk and boat ride yourself the price varies between US$7-60/person for a round trip. Beware of scam. When you reach the school in the village, tour guide will give you pack of exercise books and pencils as "a payment to village for visiting them". The queue of pupils will be longer than number of books you have. Immediately you receive next pack but then you will need to pay $9 for the second pack. In the wet season, the tuk-tuk or taxi will take you to the tourist information and ticket booth about 10km north of the village, where your visit is arranged. A round-trip boat will typically cost $10 per passenger including $1 admission fee. The boat will take you through the village to a floating restaurant, where you can have lunch (mains around $3-5) and continue for a short trip onto the lake. The food (esp.~the fish) is surprisingly good, so give it a try. Additionally, the flooded wood is a great scenery. Short trips (30-60minutes) on nutshell boats (2-3 passengers) can be booked at the ticket booth for $5 per boat.

Landmine Museum, (6 km south of Banteay Srey Temple, 31 km from Siem Reap), [109]. This tiny museum was set up by local deminer Aki Ra to educate locals and tourists about the dangers of land mines. Piles of defused mines and UXO lie around the site and the guides are mostly teenagers who were orphaned or injured by mines, many of whom live onsite. This is a very worthwhile attraction that brings home the scale of the problem and shows you a slice of real Cambodia. The museum moved in 2007, so make sure your motodop doesn't try to take you to the old location in a village near Angkor Wat.US$3.

Wat Thmei Temple & Stupa Memorial to the Killing Fields. A large Buddhist temple. In the grounds is stupa with glass sides contains bones and skulls of victims of Pol Pot's army. Be wary of people purporting to be guides or asking for donations. Also, several of the photographs on the display boards are actually of the holocaust in Nazi Germany - take this attraction with a pinch of salt. Free, donations welcome.

Phnom Bok. The highest hill in the area. Temple ruins - similar to those found atop of Phnom Krom and Phnom Bakong - can also be found on top of Phnom Bok. It lies 20km to the north east of Siem Reap. Expect a tiring hike up the stairs. A guard may be able to show you around. Don't forget to check out the old howitzers from the civil war. Admission is free, no pass is needed for the Angkorian ruins.

Phnom Krom. The hill which dominates the view, as you approach the floating village of Chong Kneas from Siem Reap. At the top, temple ruins similar to the other two hills can be found. This particular hill is popular for sunsets, as it can be viewed over the flooded plains during the wet season, and over incredibly vibrant rice fields in the dry season.

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