DNF! Hideously overcrowded hut (as in maybe over 100 people - estimates range from 70 to 120!). Left at 7am long after the crowds and met most of them returning from Pic Tyndall as it was very icy, very cold and a strong NE wind made it quite unpleasant on the N side of the ridge. Added to this, the crowding on the ridge made it even more delicate, potentially dangerous. Hands numb. We followed suit just below Pic Tyndall, though a good few parties made the summit. Suspect these were the ones who made the very early start (2am ..) and well done them!

with Geoff Thomas

DNF! Hideously overcrowded hut (as in maybe over 100 people - estimates range from 70 to 120!). Left at 7am long after the crowds and met most of them returning from Pic Tyndall as it was very icy, very cold and a strong NE wind made it quite unpleasant on the N side of the ridge. Added to this, the crowding on the ridge made it even more delicate, potentially dangerous. Hands numb. We followed suit just below Pic Tyndall, though a good few parties made the summit. Suspect these were the ones who made the very early start (2am ..) and well done them!

recent snowfall and freezing conditions removed stonefall hazard but powder made for very slow going especially from Pic Tyndal. 15 hours from hut to summit and back again. Had the summit (8 hrs from hut) to ourselves for a bit as the first team to arrive (and no one from Swiss side around) although we left the hut last and 4 out of 6 teams turned back.

with Tom Golden

recent snowfall and freezing conditions removed stonefall hazard but powder made for very slow going especially from Pic Tyndal. 15 hours from hut to summit and back again. Had the summit (8 hrs from hut) to ourselves for a bit as the first team to arrive (and no one from Swiss side around) although we left the hut last and 4 out of 6 teams turned back.

1 day before the 150th anniversary! Lots of climbers, most of them slow on the route and high winds so only stayed a couple of minutes at the summit. Climbing was continously interesting but didn't seem to feel like I'd climbed an awesome, iconic mountain. Maybe need to do the Hörnli now?

1 day before the 150th anniversary! Lots of climbers, most of them slow on the route and high winds so only stayed a couple of minutes at the summit. Climbing was continously interesting but didn't seem to feel like I'd climbed an awesome, iconic mountain. Maybe need to do the Hörnli now?

1 day after the 150th Anniversary of the 1st ascent. Excellent conditions, sunny, light winds. Because the mountain was closed on the 14th we had to start at the Abruzzi refuge, 9hrs to the top. Only 1 route finding error, after the chain up from the Carrel and rope climb in corner, climb gulley to ridge height and traverse high ledges to snowpatch and wire.

1 day after the 150th Anniversary of the 1st ascent. Excellent conditions, sunny, light winds. Because the mountain was closed on the 14th we had to start at the Abruzzi refuge, 9hrs to the top. Only 1 route finding error, after the chain up from the Carrel and rope climb in corner, climb gulley to ridge height and traverse high ledges to snowpatch and wire.

Chose this hoping to avoid the 'chaos of the Hornli ridge', however, we still encountered plenty of punters. At one point a guy abseiled onto the shoulders of me and 2 guides. He then became frenzied and repeatedly kicked us the shoulders with his crampons before jumping onto my rope.
Overall there was a generally hysterical atmosphere on the mountain. This was down to the large numbers of guided teams who turned back due to ice on the route and abseiled n top of other teams, getting ropes tangled and dropping rocks.
The Zinalrothorn was much better and the people we encountered more friendly and considerate.
The fixed ropes are indeed a shame and actually make some of the climbing harder as they are blocking the holds.

Chose this hoping to avoid the 'chaos of the Hornli ridge', however, we still encountered plenty of punters. At one point a guy abseiled onto the shoulders of me and 2 guides. He then became frenzied and repeatedly kicked us the shoulders with his crampons before jumping onto my rope.
Overall there was a generally hysterical atmosphere on the mountain. This was down to the large numbers of guided teams who turned back due to ice on the route and abseiled n top of other teams, getting ropes tangled and dropping rocks.
The Zinalrothorn was much better and the people we encountered more friendly and considerate.
The fixed ropes are indeed a shame and actually make some of the climbing harder as they are blocking the holds.

Great climbing ruined by fixed ropes. Get to the Carrel hut early if you want a bed. It was full be about 1pm when we climbed. Route finding can be tricky in the dark so don't start too early. That said if you are going down the Hornli (which is tedious and exceptionally long) don't underestimate the time required to get down to the lift (7h ish).

with Misha Gopaul

Great climbing ruined by fixed ropes. Get to the Carrel hut early if you want a bed. It was full be about 1pm when we climbed. Route finding can be tricky in the dark so don't start too early. That said if you are going down the Hornli (which is tedious and exceptionally long) don't underestimate the time required to get down to the lift (7h ish).

Wanted to do the Zmutt but the approach from the Hornli was out. Approach as hard work in v hot conditions as you can see the hut all the way up pretty much. left hut at 3.30 and summited at just before 8 - tried to avoid all the fixed ropes/chains apart bfrom the ladder just below the summit. Descent took 5 hrs and then we found that the lift back from Plateau Rosa wa closed, so walked all the way back to Cervinia that night from Kl Matterhorn station! feet and knees compeltely shot!

Wanted to do the Zmutt but the approach from the Hornli was out. Approach as hard work in v hot conditions as you can see the hut all the way up pretty much. left hut at 3.30 and summited at just before 8 - tried to avoid all the fixed ropes/chains apart bfrom the ladder just below the summit. Descent took 5 hrs and then we found that the lift back from Plateau Rosa wa closed, so walked all the way back to Cervinia that night from Kl Matterhorn station! feet and knees compeltely shot!

Wore KSBs, no crampons, single axe unused. Had a hoot. Parachutists dropping into Breuil viewed fro summit - one parachute failure and emergency chute descent!
LS went up this, down Hornli, up Zmutt, down this all in one day.

Wore KSBs, no crampons, single axe unused. Had a hoot. Parachutists dropping into Breuil viewed fro summit - one parachute failure and emergency chute descent!
LS went up this, down Hornli, up Zmutt, down this all in one day.