okay back. testing 85 at first very dim before key on, turn key on bright light for a second and goes out, when cranking no light.

Brad :

Ok the PCM is not seeing a crank or cam signal.. It should be on while cranking.. And you did have the test light connected to positive battery and probed the slot 85 correct?

Customer:

yep

Customer:

i went to school to be an auto mechanic and when i couldn't see the engine because of all the relays and hoses that is when i quit.

Brad :

When you try and start it does the RPM's move?

Customer:

the tach on the dash ??

Customer:

i will have to check it out.

Customer:

i will be right back.

Brad :

Ok

Customer:

shows how much i drive this dodge , no tach.

Customer:

1995 dodge 3500 slt cab and chassis.

Brad :

If you don't have a Tech reading, it sounds like your crankshaft sensor is faulty

Customer:

i don't have a tach to register rpms.

Brad :

If it is faulty it will turn off the coils

Customer:

what do you mean tech reading ?

Brad :

I understand.. No tach in cluster?

Brad :

Tech is Rpm reading.

Customer:

okay. i got you.

Customer:

so replace the crank sensor ? or test it ?

Brad :

If you have a multi-meter test the wires to it to see if it has 5 volts

Customer:

okay where do i connect the leads ??

Customer:

the wires i got it.

Brad :

Ground the black lead and test the wires

Customer:

be back in a few. is this a flat 45.00 or am i being charged additionally.

Customer:

????

Brad :

You are charged until you rate me... And even then you can still reply to me at no charge..

Brad :

You arent charged until you rate me..

Customer:

just the 45.00 ??

Brad :

Correct just the 45.00

Brad :

No more

Customer:

okay i will be right back.

Brad :

Take your time

Customer:

i am back

Brad :

Ok

Customer:

blew up my first meter, ( fried the fuse) . to make sure i have the correct one, the plug i found has three wires that goes down to the cranks shaft sensor about 20 inches from the sensor. that was the one i tested.

Brad :

That is correct

Customer:

with the plug retainer on the bottom from left to right with key off next to nothing on all three wires, with key on from left to right 9 , 30 and 110 volts but it was fluctuating wildly with the new and i think better meter klein tools cl200.the first meter was the old small box looking meter.

Brad :

Set the meter on DCV and test

Customer:

i at first put the ground on chassis and then clipped it to the negitive bat. i did put it on the dcv automatic setting.

Brad :

Ok

Brad :

What was reading with new meter?

Customer:

the first meter pegged at over 5 volts before the fuse blew

Customer:

new meterwas what i told you previously.9,30,110

Customer:

what wire should have over 5 volts ?

Brad :

Something is wrong because the vehicle only has 12v.. it couldn't be over 12v

Customer:

i know it doesn't make sense. thats why i was away so long.

Customer:

i will go back out and try again.what wire should i be looking at ?

Brad :

Just test all 3.. I'm looking for a 5 volt wire

Customer:

okay

Brad :

Take your time..

Customer:

9,0, and 5.1 from left to right.

Brad :

Is that when it's unplugged?

Customer:

yes and the key on.

Customer:

key off nothing

Customer:

this all started when it over heated and i found all the damage as i described before.

Customer:

the idler pulley jambed and the belt broke and radiator cap didn't release and then radiator tank split open and truck quit.

Brad :

I understand..

Customer:

the last test was readings from the wire from the truck and not from the sensor.

Brad :

That is correct

Customer:

when trying to find the crank sensor it will be a bear trying to get at it.

Customer:

to replace .

Brad :

I understand..

Customer:

i did take out the original air filter and replaced it with after market cone filter. mounts on the outside of truck. if that has anything to do with it.

Brad :

No this is a electrical issue.

Brad :

Do have a scantool?

Brad :

To check for codes?

Customer:

no

Customer:

where would i hook it up at?? when i go get one.

Brad :

Darn.

Customer:

how much are they??

Brad :

you have a 1995, can you look under the drivers side dash to see if you have a connector

Brad :

Advance rents them

Customer:

toward the middle under dash.

Customer:

i think

Customer:

rectangular ?

Customer:

i think napa auto parts here in omaha rents them..

Customer:

i also have a john deer 4200 utility that quit on me yesterday. just driving a long and quit running and the white smoke just poured out. that will not start either.

Can you erase them and try and start it to see what codes come back?Thanks

Customer:

how do i erase the codes?

Customer:

how do i rease the codes ?? disconnect the battery??

Brad :The scanto should erase them... Or disconnect the battery

Customer:

okay. i have already disconnected the battery before we started testing things.

Customer:

after the engine quit , the start of this problem, the battery was totally discharged and would not take a charge, so i had switch it with another , so the battery has been disconnected and removed and replaced.

Brad :After you reconnected the battery what codes came back?

Customer:

the codes that i have given you.

Customer:

the o2 sensor code makes sense because it has always just blew thru gas and you can smell unburned fuel coming out the tail pipe. put bosch plat 4 for hotter spark to help that problem.

Customer:

i will go out and erase codes thru scantool and see what it says.

Customer:

same codes

Customer:

what should i replace ???

Brad :

Are you here?

Customer:

AM NOW.

Brad :

Ok great!!! Sorry , I work at a Dodge dealership during the day.. But i'm all here now.

Ok so you still have the same codes.. Did you install the ASD relay?

Customer:

didnt have any on back order.

Brad :

I'm sorry.. I mean did you put it back in the fuse box?

Customer:

yes

Brad :

Ok great.. And did you erase the codes with the scantool?

Customer:

it would not erase the codes because according to innova it will not erase codes for heavy duty trucks. 3500 they consider heavy duty.

Brad :

So maybe the ASD code is from when you removed it...

Customer:

i have unhooked the battery for better part of the day. i don't know if that has any effect.

Customer:

i ahve no idea about the asd code

Brad :

Does the scantool allow you to watch the sensors?

Customer:

i am at a loss

Customer:

of what to do anymore

Brad :

Does the scantool allow you to watch the sensors?

Customer:

it is a innova 1403b. it has a bunch small round circles up top ... mis, fue,ccm,cat,air,o2s, htr and double that amount that are not highlighted

Customer:

how else can i erase the codes

Brad :

If you have a min.. Can you watch THIS.. It will teach you about your scantool

Customer:

okay thanks

Brad :

I just watched it.. You need to press the RED erase button to erase codes..

Brad :

And then try and start it and see what codes come back..

Brad :

I'm trying to help you use your scantool, to help me know what it is doing..

Customer:

thanks for you tube video. sorry got distracted for the flexing boobs vids. okay i have already done the erasing of the codes a few times with the red button. i was trying tio erase the codes in the 3500.

Brad :

It wouldn't let you?

Customer:

no it wouldn't

Customer:

and after trying several times it came up with call tech service

Customer:

so i cvalled and they then told me that this tool wouldn't read or erase codes on a heavy duty truck. like i said before they consider a 3500 a h duty truck

Brad :

Darn

Customer:

well we know it was reading the codes.

Customer:

any other way to erase the codes on the truck ?

Brad :

Not really.. Can you just hook it up and press LD which will be Live Data, and tell me if it gives you a crank or cam reading.

Customer:

i am thinking because the truck got hot that the crank sensor and / or the camshaft sensor got cooked in the process. okay i will go out and do that.

Customer:

wish i had a spare computer for this 3500.

Customer:

be back in few

Brad :

I understand that.. The bad part is that if it was at my dealership, I would know the issue within 10min..

Brad :

I can help you fix it, I just needs to know exactly what the engine is doing.. If you understand..

Brad :

We will get it though..

Customer:

i did the procedure and it defaults back to the menu, review dtcs,1989-1994,1994/fcc and 1995. no live data

Customer:

i tried holding down ld/m button as i cranked and nothing. then i tried just cranking, nothing

If I knew if the crank or cam sensors where working by watching them, I could help you fix it.. BUt there is 2 ways to check a crank sensor, with a scantool or ocilloscope

Customer:

how long to change the crank and camshaft sensors. how much work?

Customer:

one is 89.00 and one is 75.00

Brad :

No bad at all...

Customer:

oh and they are special order

Brad :

You have done spent 400 on scantool, and it will be bad if a 80 sensor fixes it..

Customer:

looks like i should have left the radiator out to get at the cam sensor

Customer:

yea but i have 07 hs hummer that does the security lock out trick on wife every once in awhile. i have other vehicles that have certain other problems. but i don't think the damned thing works.

Customer:

tommorrow i will go back to NAPA and either get money back or exchange it.

Customer:

how hard is it to change out the crankshaft and the camshaft sensors

Brad :

CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 8.0L V-10 ENGINE

The camshaft position sensor is located on the timing chain case/cover on the left-front side of the engine.

A thin plastic rib is molded into the face of the sensor to position the depth of sensor to the upper cam gear (sprocket) This rib can be found on both the new replacement sensors and sensors that were originally installed to the engine. The first time the engine has been operated, part of this rib may be sheared (ground) off. Depending on parts tolerances, some of the rib material may still be observed after removal

Refer to either of the following procedures, Sensor Removal - Replacing Old Sensor With Original, or Sensor Removal - Replacing With New Sensor:

brad pointed me in a few directions to fix the problem. had problems with the scantool that the parts store said would read the 3500 dodge's computer and it did to some extent but would not clean and resent the codes.but because of time and slow order processing by the parts store i can not definately say as of right now what the solution will be in the end. it will be the cam sensor, crank sensor, wiring to them, or the computer according to brad the mechanic. i will let you know later.

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