Haleem: Not just for Ramadan

You can find this ancient savory porridge with Muslim roots on Devon Avenue

January 10, 2013|By Rob Lopata, Special to the Tribune

Look closely at the storefront signage hung on restaurant windows along Devon Avenue, Chicago's aorta for Indo-Pak cuisine, and you'll notice haleem isn't in short supply. But outside the neighborhood, this ancient savory porridge with Muslim roots is a virtual unknown in the Western world.

Although the dish varies among regions, there are essentially two types of haleem: One version involves wheat and/or barley, coupled with a meat such as goat, beef, mutton, chicken, sometimes even camel.

The other — especially in the predominantly Muslim city of Hyderabad in India and in Karachi, Pakistan's largest city — incorporates varieties of lentils or other pulses, and generally more heavily spiced.

Abul Kamal Pasha, owner of Pepper & Salt Restaurant in Schaumburg, says it's a style more reflective of the subcontinent, or a Karachi interpretation of the meat porridge.

Grains, meat and spices are cooked together for several hours and frequently pounded and stirred to develop the gluten in the grains and break down the meat until it is barely distinguishable from the grain. This helps create a smooth, well integrated meat paste with varying degrees of viscosity, from highly elastic to downright soupy.

You may find garnishes as varied as spiced clarified butter, sesame, sugar, olive oil or nuts. But in Chicago, as throughout the subcontinent, haleem is usually garnished with julienned ginger, cilantro, lime or lemon wedges, fried onions and fresh chili peppers.

The origin of the word "haleem" reflects its humble, modest status. In Arabic, haleem or halim is an adjective meaning patient, tolerant and merciful.

It's also commonly known throughout the Arab world and elsewhere — including Armenia and Kashmir — as harisa or harees, one of its definitions meaning "to pound or crush," according to Mustatha Kamal, clinical assistant professor of Arabic at the University of Illinois at Chicago.

Today, the capital of haleem lies in the city of Hyderabad, India. According to the Hyderabad Haleem Makers' Association (yes, there is one), while many specialty haleem restaurants/shops do business year-round, an estimated 6,000 temporary street stalls pop up throughout the city each year to service the haleem demands during the holy month of Ramadan.

Here in Chicago, Sajjad Ali Khan, manager of Hyderabad House and Hyderabad House Family Dining restaurants on opposite sides of Devon Avenue, said: "Ninety-five percent of our customers come from Hyderabad. Unlike Pakistanis and others who eat haleem throughout the entire year, Hyderabadis will almost exclusively enjoy it during Ramadan."

Haleem can be found at many Pakistani and Hyderabadi restaurants along Devon Avenue, as well as a handful of suburban locations.

Pepper & Salt: If you're anywhere close to Schaumburg, Pepper & Salt is the place for haleem. Wheat, barley, lentils and beef meld together as one, creating an ideal elastically smooth texture. Typical spices used in the "Karachi style" haleem include peppercorns, clove, cardamom, cumin, cinnamon and turmeric (collectively known as garam masala), beautifully integrated into the dish. This is some of the best haleem in town. Flatbreads such as paratha and the less common sheermal, a slightly sweet version of naan, are worth trying. 2263 W. Schaumburg Rd., Schaumburg, 847-524-1401

Ghareeb Nawaz: Ghareeb Nawaz, named for the Sufi patron saint of the poor, normally prices a bowl of the rarely seen, slightly lighter version of chicken haleem at $2.99. But during Ramadan, when demand is at its peak, it's a mere $1.99. Having some of the lowest prices for Indo-Pak food in Chicago, not one item on the elaborate menu is priced over $4.99. Hunter beef, a Pakistani rendition of corned beef, is a novelty and is also worth trying here. The newly opened Ghareeb Nawaz Express (807 W. Roosevelt Rd., 312-433-0123) offers beef and chicken versions. But be sure to call first: They make batches every other day and will sometimes run out. 2032 W. Devon Ave., 773-761-5300

Khan BBQ: Like other places around Devon Avenue, this Pakistani-owned establishment usually serves its beef haleem only during Ramadan as well as on special holidays and maybe weekends. With a beautiful ratio of lentils, grain and shredded beef, this silky-smooth yet slightly soupy haleem has serious beefiness and is wonderfully spiced with clove, cinnamon and garlic. Again, be sure to call in advance. Other items not to be missed here include chicken sheekh kabab and chicken boti, both cooked over lump charcoal. 2401 W. Devon Ave., 773-274-8600