Spimmy Buildlog With pictures!!

With winter basically already here in Massachusetts and snow already freezing over my favorite fields, I decided it's time to start screwing with my guns again.
Credit for the build instructions goes to Vike http://www.freewebs.com/vikesbuildaspimmy/

About a year ago at this time I had a 2k2 Timmy, the thing shot great however the gun was old and not well cared for by the previous owner. I basically rebuilt the gun from the ground up. Eventually I couldn't bring myself to put any more cash into this money pit. So I traded it away so somebody else could deal with it.

Now I miss it, and I'm really starting to want a marker that is my own creation. I don't have access to a mill or any tools to fabricate a body like I dream of. So I chose the next best thing, that is building a Spimmy.

HEY LISTEN UP
Here's the part where I go don't attempt anything like this unless you know what you're doing. If using tools is like speaking a foreign language to you then I would advise against trying this. That being said it's your marker and you can do whatever you want

As a note this project requires access to several tools, most are common hand tools but some (ie a drill press and taps) are less common. The best way to get around this is to find a friend that has them. No sense buying expensive tools for one project.

If you've never heard of a Spimmy it is a fairly simply procedure of taking Bob Long Intimidator parts and putting them inside a Kingman Spyder body.

I've heard rumors that the reason this works is because when Bob was making the Intimidator, instead of designing an entirely new gun. He took the Defiant internals and put them inside the Millenium spyder bodies. I don't know how true this is but the two designs work very well together with very few modifications.

In a nutshell basically here is what is required:
1. find a pre-2009 Spyder, Piranha or similar style stacked tube blowback marker.
2. find a 2k2-2k5 Intimidator to harvest for parts
3. Drill the Spyder for eyes and eye covers
4. Drill a hole in the bottom tube for the front barb on the ram sleeve
5. Drill out the top of the marker to make it top cocking if it isn't already.
6. swap out the feedneck.
7. put all the parts in
8. set the regulators and go play

The process is fairly straightforward. Depending on how you want it to come out it could be harder.

Q: Why not just buy a bunch of Timmy parts?
A: It's actually CHEAPER to buy a complete Intimidator than it is to buy all the parts. Haven't you ever wondered why IOG is 80% part threads? You get more money when you part out.

Q:Why even bother then? If an Intimidator is cheaper why waste your time building this thing?
A: This is where I say that if you're asking that question, just stay for the pictures. It's creating a head turning gun that you built with your own two hands.

First thing
Set your budget
bear in mind a nice looking Spyder will run around $40 to $50 and a working Intimidator will be between $160 and $300 depending on what year it is. So this is by no means a cheap way to get an incredible eye turning gun.
I set my budget at $200 for all the parts

Now make a plan

What spyder will you be using? and what timmy will you be using?
I'm using a 2005 Spyder Pilot ACS in red to black fade and a hodgepodge mismatched Lasoya 2k2 I found on ebay. I'm also using a spyder threaded freak barrel with a purple tip. However this isn't important, the stock spyder barrel can be used.

Do you want to halfblock or mill your spyder?
I will not be doing this, the only thing I will be doing in terms of milling the body is drilling it to be top cocking.
If you wan't a milled out body by all means go for it.

Will you be installing eyes?
I will be because even though I own a rotor, I don't always use it and I don't like cleaning chops.
Installing eyes requires drilling a hole across the bottom of your breech so it can accept eyes. Supposedly it can be done with a hand drill but personally I wouldn't do it without a drill press.
You don't *need* eyes, the drilling process can be difficult, but they are nice to have.

Do you have your helping hand???
It's always good to have a friend around for any project, you never know when you might need a second pair of hands!!

I had already removed the detents in this picture but you get the idea. I also put an autococker pin in it because the one it came with was crap.

I noticed this marker is missing a striker buffer. Not a huge deal because it's not going to be a spyder much longer but just thought it strange.

Whenever I get a gun I always follow a ritual before I use it. The only gun I didn't do this to was my autococker because I didn't want it to get out of time.

basically strip it down all the way remove all the electronics and give it a bath. A good gun is a clean gun.
Judging by the layer of film on the inside I would guess it's never seen air, only co2. Not unusual for this gun. Also the white oring on the valve was so old it stretched and held it's shape.
more pics.
all appart, note the crappy spyder proprietary VA and the gas through grip made to look like a reg.

dirt on the valve

white film inside the grip

This I thought was interesting, the top is a 2009 spyder valve pin, and the bottom is the 2005 pin. The newer one is made for much higher flow, new spyder valves also have much bigger holes. Also notice how much thicker the old valve spring is. The only reason I could guess for these changes is that Spyders are coming from the factory ready for low pressure now

gross

bath time

stock board with semi 6 and 3 round burst and full auto. adjustable rate of fire up to 13bps.

crap spyder feedneck

Last edited by junits15 : 11-08-2012 at 08:13 PM.
Reason: adding in first step

Nice pick on the body, I run mine blind because it's my sleeper (have yet to have an issue with it chopping), 2k5 electronics & frame, 2k2 everything else (tapped the body for 2k5 front blocks and drilled the front block for the 2k5 set-screw).

If you can find an older spyder (pre 2k6) spring kit, get it and use the black spring for the poppet, it'll help lower your LPR pressure (and possibly your HPR as well). Or get the lurker eigenram & spring.

****! I forgot this topic was still here! I'm still working on this, it hasn't died yet!! I ended up changing my mind and using an 09 spyder electra body. It required me to modify the stock frame and use special m3 banjo fittings but it's coming together nicely! Almost looks like an ego with the way everything is put together. Ordered fittings of ASP so it's gonna be a while longer for those.

It's a much cleaner install over all though because it's already top cocking.

****! I forgot this topic was still here! I'm still working on this, it hasn't died yet!! I ended up changing my mind and using an 09 spyder electra body. It required me to modify the stock frame and use special m3 banjo fittings but it's coming together nicely! Almost looks like an ego with the way everything is put together. Ordered fittings of ASP so it's gonna be a while longer for those.

It's a much cleaner install over all though because it's already top cocking.

Damn. I have the same Spyder Pilot ACS and wanted to see where you drilled and everything. oh well, good luck!

The rumor you had heard about the Millenium Spyder being the first Timmy is true. The bob long millenium spyder tanked big time and he was stuck with a ton of bodies. I give him props for re-purposing the bodies however the fact that the timmy is just a glorified spyder still keeps me from purchasing one to this day.

I give him props for re-purposing the bodies however the fact that the timmy is just a glorified spyder still keeps me from purchasing one to this day.

That's kind of stretching it a bit, it's like saying that a DM is a glorified ion or the evil-M is a glorified merlin; the mechanics of operation are much more balanced & controllable in the Timmy platform than in the spyder/clone platform:
striker weight is lower
valve spring is softer
adjustable striker force that remains constant Vs a spring that changes force with compression length
adjustable time for the application of the striker force
eyes are a big plus in timmies Vs blind spimmies/older spyder/clones
a decently consistent, fast recharging HPR

The fact that older gen timmies now are about as much as a new spyder also helps.

I decided I'm not one for the step by step process, I've done so much undocumented work recently. Plus when I'm working on something I can barely be bothered to answer the phone, let alone take pictures.
It's almost done I;m just trying to fit it all together right now, I'll answer any questions about how I built it once I get the final pictures up for anyone looking to replicate this.

Currently it holds air, cycles and shoots paint with no leaks. The spyder eyes are rigged to the WAS board and they function properly. The hardest part so far has been opening up the grip to accept all the timmy parts. That noid is so awkwardly shaped.

Ah, I got a great idea.
So my issue was that the noid wasn't sitting flush in the grip, because it was flat on top of the board. Just like how it would be inside the timmy. BUT the timmy grip frame is wider and more open.
I took the board out and everything sits fine. My solution is to get a pm/pmr board that will sit flat against the back of the grip frame. This way the buttons will line up and the LED will shine through the window. This also gives me ramp and NXL mode. The WAS board only gave me semi.
I'm actually thinking about the virtue board seeing as I can get it fairly cheap now.