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As to factory bleed nipples, the only one that I'm aware of is on the thermostat housing, which is often replaced with an aftermarket auto-bleeder on many cars.

The radiator has a factory auto-bleeder, #7 in the diagram below, though Bill doesn't like how the location of the suction vortex is lower than the bleed point on the radiator, so he elongates and re-routes that hose, channeling it into the heater core return line (via a 't' connector), as opposed to the main return in the OEM setup.

I'm no self-proclaimed Guru, but in my mind, if you have air trapped in the system, simply pressurizing the system without circulation will just cause the trapped air to compress, and not necessarily bleed out.

Factory bleeder at the radiator is designed to work via a venturi effect that's created from the circulation of the coolant - that's an objective fact.

Personally, I'll stick with gravity and circulation to bleed the air out

Also, if there's a large amount of built up sediment packed along the bottom of the block, as is described in the Talk thread where people's drain holes were blocked by caked-up crud, flushing only through the hoses, as David suggested, won't do anything to touch that. Flushing through the drain plugs won't guarantee that you'll get it all out, or even a significant portion of it, but it will allow you to get at least some of that out and provide a more thorough flush of the engine/block.