Though they are best cooked slowly, baby back ribs require little hands-on time. And the combination of slow cooking and a vibrant sauce packs intense flavor that - pardon the cliche - really can have diners licking their fingers.

But you don't need to wait for grilling season. Though outdoor barbecue is the traditional approach for baby back ribs, quite respectable versions can be had from the oven.

And while there are ways to mimic that luscious smoky flavor had from the grill, it can be a cumbersome and messy process. We opted for smoke-free, oven-friendly recipes that stand quite nicely on their own.

Most roasted rib recipes are as simple as cutting the racks of ribs into servings, dousing them with a sauce, then popping them in the oven. If you have time to let them marinate a bit before cooking, all the better.

Baby back ribs would be a tough midweek meal (most recipes take at least an hour in the oven), but they are perfect for weekends and special occasions. And because they are cut from the loin, they are leaner and more tender than other ribs.

When selecting baby back ribs, get fresh. Pork doesn't freeze well. If you do freeze it, use it within two months. When you buy, the meat should be light to dark pink. Tightly wrapped, it can be refrigerated for three to four days.

Most racks of baby back ribs will still have a tough membrane lining the inside surface. This is best removed; doing so allows the sauce flavor to more fully permeate the meat, and makes them easier to eat.

But removing the membrane can require a bit of muscle. Consider asking the butcher to do this.

This fuss-free pork rib dinner, above, is jammed with the savory heat of traditional Thai curries. Most of the ingredients are widely available in the ethnic aisle of large grocers. If you prefer less heat, omit the dried red chilies.

Cut the ribs into 3- to 4-rib portions, then arrange them in a large non-reactive bowl. Pour the curry paste mixture over the ribs, then use your hands to rub it in and ensure all surfaces are coated.

Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Transfer the ribs to a roasting pan, spreading over them any marinade that has collected in the bowl. Bake for 50 minutes to 1 hours, or until the meat begins to pull away from the bone.

After 30 minutes of baking, in a medium saucepan combine the rice, saffron and water. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat to simmer for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes.

Serve the ribs with saffron rice. Garnish everything with cilantro.

Makes 2 to 3 servings.

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Surf and turf combinations are a brilliant excuse to indulge in the best offerings from the land and sea. In this case, beer roasted baby back ribs and shrimp sauteed in olive oil with smoked paprika and cayenne.

This recipe is more hands-on than some others, but is well worth the effort.

SURF AND TURF BABY BACK RIBS

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon celery seeds

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1 pound large shrimp, shelled and veined

1 rack baby back pork ribs (about 2 to 3 pounds), membrane removed

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

Olive oil cooking spray

1 large yellow onion, cut crosswise into 3 rounds

12-ounce bottle beer (such as stout)

4 cups chicken broth, divided

1 cup long-grain white rice

10 threads saffron

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 bunch asparagus, bottoms trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch lengths

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 shallot, minced

Heat the grill on high. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large bowl, mix together the paprika, celery seeds, cayenne and garlic powder. Add the shrimp and toss to coat. Cover the bowl and refrigerate until needed.

Season both sides of the ribs with salt and pepper, then spritz the ribs and onion rounds with cooking spray. Place the ribs and onions on the grill and sear for 10 minutes per side.

Transfer the onions and ribs (onions on the bottom) to a roasting pan. Add the beer and 2 cups of the chicken broth. Cover with foil and bake for about 21/2 hours, or until the meat is very tender.

About 30 minutes before the ribs are done, in a medium saucepan combine the rice, remaining 2 cups of chicken broth and saffron. Bring to a boil, then cover, reduce to simmer and cook for 20 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed.

When the ribs are finished, transfer them to a plate and cover with foil. Set a mesh strainer over a bowl and pour the cooking liquid from the roasting pan through; discard any solids. Skim off and discard any fat from the strained liquid.

In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the shrimp, asparagus, garlic and shallot, then saute for 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the shrimp and asparagus to a plate, then return the skillet to the burner.

Use the strained cooking liquid to deglaze the skillet, scraping the bottom to release any charred bits. Bring to a simmer and cook until reduced and thickened, about 4 minutes.

Serve the ribs with the rice and shrimp and asparagus. Drizzle with the pan sauce.

Makes 4 servings.

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Chinese chili sauce is what gives these restaurant-style ribs their kick. You can find it in the ethnic aisle of most larger grocers. Not a fan of heat? Substitute ketchup.

CHINESE RESTAURANT BBQ RIBS

1 rack baby back pork ribs (about 2 to 3 pounds), membrane removed

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2 cup honey

1/4 cup hot Chinese chili sauce (Sriracha) or ketchup

1/4 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

1 to 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Heat the oven to 350 F.

Cut the ribs into sections of 1 to 3 ribs each. Arrange the ribs in a roasting pan or on a large rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle the ribs with the salt. Set aside.

In a small bowl, whisk together the honey, chili sauce, soy sauce, vinegar, garlic and ginger. Pour or brush the sauce over the ribs, turning them in the sauce until well coated.

Bake the ribs, uncovered, for 1 hour, basting periodically with the pan drippings. The ribs are done when the meat is chewy-tender and starts to pull away from the bone.