Description

The southernmost of a trio of peaks (Merriam, Royce, Feather) which enclose the west side of the Royce Lakes Cwm - or Hall of the Mountain Gods as I call it. As such the area is unique in the High Sierra, as the peaks immediately west of the official crest are higher than the crest peaks.

Not only is there a classic IV 5.10 on the north buttress of this peak, but there has also been significant new route development there in the last few years, by Peter Croft, Lisa Rands and others.

Getting There

Take the Pine Creek Road off Highway 395 to the Pine Creek trailhead, by the Tungsten Mill. Hike up an old road switchbacking its way monotonously up to the forest, then round the corner and into the much better scenery at Pine Lake. Head around the north side of the lake and take the trail, past Upper Pine Lake, to Honeymoon Lake, continue to follow the trail to Granite Park  but cut south west when above the lake and head cross-country up and over Royce Pass (11,680ft). Head straight west to a wonderful gravel spot just north of the middle (largest) of Royce Lakes. A spectacular place.

Alternate route recommended by Squiddo and more than likely easier:

On the way back we took the alternate approach that heads West from the Southern end of the Royce Lakes Basin and travels across some very pleasant terrain to meet the Pine Creek Pass trail right below French lake above Pine Creek pass itself. The second part of this trail was very well cairned out and obviously used/loved/maintained.

Perhaps 1 hour max from the end of Royce Lakes to the Pine Lake Pass trail.

The entire route entails some challenging but very fun diverse climbing. The crux 10.b lies on the Seventh pitch. It is definitely a Classic and must DO!Total of seven technical Pitches with an additional 300' feet of Class 3ish to reach the Summit proper.Approach: Scramble up the right side of the pedestal (3rd class) to the bottom of the route. P1(5.9, ~100'): Climb ~30 feet of blocky 5.6, then head up the crack just left of the arete. Belay at the "ear". P2(5.10a, ~100'): Climb the crack stra...[more]Browse More Classics in CA

Climbed this route last weekend and we had the place to ourselves. Overall a fun route in an incredible area. I do take issue with the description on the approach. We hiked in following the Honeymoon Lake towards Italy pass to the cross country area. Frankly from the moment you step off the trail its a rugged with many rocks/boulders to avoid.

ON the way back we took the alternate approach that heads West from the Southern end of the Royce Lakes Basin and travels across some very pleasant terrain to meet the Pine Creek Pass trail right below French lake above Pine Creek pass itself. The second part of this trail was very well cairned out and obviously used/loved/maintained.

Perhaps 1 hour max from the end of Royce Lakes to the Pine Lake Pass trail.

Of the two approaches, the latter was WAY better and easier. It might be a tad longer but the trail and terrain MORE than makes up for it.