On the penultimate full day of New York shows, designers wore their hearts on their sleeves. It brought to mind the ubiquitous Instagram #mood. As in athleisure #mood, or floral crown #mood, or goth lip #mood. In all cases, the effects of an image or make-up choice are tough to spell out precisely, but are rich with association. That’s what our favourite looks did on today’s runways:

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Floral crowns and earrings at Rodarte

Rodarte’s show was right in their sweet spot of “romantic goth,” but this year they had particularly beautiful accoutrements made of both real and fake flowers. There were cast-metal orchids studded with gemstones that perched on models’ temples and chignons, and as if that weren’t enough, fresh “micro-orchids” were secured to jewellery backings to make stunning earpieces. The real-girl takeaway of this production might be to wear fresh flowers in your hair outside of a tropical vacation.

Image: Getty

Purple lips at Ohne Titel

The technically savvy duo behind Ohne Titel sent out a range of glamorous, jewel-tone knits, most of whose colours were mirrored in the models’ faces. The standout of the bunch was a deep purple matte lip, which, when you think about it, is actually a wearable colour. The reason? Purple is literally both red and blue, covering the range of undertones that complicate lipstick choice.

Image: Getty

Athleisure hair at Tory Burch

The clothes in Burch’s show were a hybrid of traditional ready-to-wear and the new Tory Sport “athleisure” line. She also nailed what we’d like to call the ultimate “athleisure” hairdo—the half pulled-through ponytail—albeit in a slightly more polished form than actual athletics would require. That’s what athleisure’s all about, anyway: pushing the limits of yoga class looks in professional settings. Definitely add this style to your workday arsenal.

Image: Getty

Color block shadow at Gypsy Sport

At CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Rio Uribe’s energetic show at Milk Studios, everything was high impact: the clothes, the unconventional models, the soundtrack, and the cosmetics. We particularly loved the glossy slicks of primary colours on models’ lids in hues like Yves Klein Blue, that make-up artist Erin Parsons gave the models with Maybelline products.

Image: Getty

Neoclassical updos at Oscar de la Renta

Hairstylist Guido Palau gave models a classic, romantic chignon that stood out all the more for its resistance to the trend-crazed climate of fashion week. It’s a hairdo for which you don’t need a baroque tutorial, or a trove of products, or an extra set of hands—just a reminder that it exists, and that you should try it sometime. (But if you were wondering, Palau used Redken’s Windblown 05 Dry Finishing Spray to set the buns.)