I'm bottling my belgian specialty ale next week, and I'm just wondering if there is any difference in regards to priming it? I've read many threads regarding priming certain belgian beers particularly high gravity ones where people are adding yeast at bottling, I presume this would be a case where the beer has conditioned for several months and more yeast is needed to prime? Mine finished out at 7.7%, does gravity also dictate this or am I ok to bottle this as
normal.

I've made only one and it was a big tripel (1.082-1.007) mine is carbonating SLOWLY! It's been nearly a month and there nowhere close to the targeted 3.25 volumes I'm gunning for. I suspect it may take months. Based on this experience, I will be pitching fresh yeast in my bottling bucket next time.

Guys, just trying to get as much info as I can on this as I need to bottle at the weekend. Is there a point when adding yeast adding yeast at bottling really NEEDS to be done? Is this determined by how long the beer has been stored (In my case three weeks) or by the OG (1.063) in my case. It finished out at 1.004. This is not by any means a huge beer and what I'm really asking is will the priming this beer as I normally do with just corn sugar produce satisfactory carbonation?

Guys, just trying to get as much info as I can on this as I need to bottle at the weekend. Is there a point when adding yeast adding yeast at bottling really NEEDS to be done? Is this determined by how long the beer has been stored (In my case three weeks) or by the OG (1.063) in my case. It finished out at 1.004. This is not by any means a huge beer and what I'm really asking is will the priming this beer as I normally do with just corn sugar produce satisfactory carbonation?

From Brew Like a Monk:

Must you go beyond the standard homebrew practice of using whatever yeast remains in beer? If you condition at particularly cold temperatures (such as close to freezing) or for a long period (beyond a month), then it is worth considering.............Conditioning takes place in a harsh environment. The yeast left in your beer has already been through a war. It isn't necessary to use the same yeast as in primary. Trappists do that because they always have it ready. Generally, an alcohol-tolerant strain will do better but is not required. If you don't have a warm room that is truly warm, consider a yeast that performs better at lower temperatures.

I wanted a very high level of carbonation, close to 4 volumes. So I re-used the yeast. It was available, the style is cloudy, it lends itself well.

I have also bottle yeasted with those little cooper's yeast packets from their lager kits. The results as far as carbonation are incredible. The beer is cloudy as hell though.