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E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010) The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

So last week I replaced the remaining 7 coils and also tried "resetting" the ECU by pulling the fuse for an hour or so.......no change. Only thing really left I can think of is the MAF or programming.
I've also notice that if the car is in park or neutral and I rev it and hold the RPMS at like 2.5-3.5K that you can feel it vibrating a good deal.

So last week I replaced the remaining 7 coils and also tried "resetting" the ECU by pulling the fuse for an hour or so.......no change. Only thing really left I can think of is the MAF or programming.
I've also notice that if the car is in park or neutral and I rev it and hold the RPMS at like 2.5-3.5K that you can feel it vibrating a good deal.

In your previous post it said you used a scanner, what type. If it is BMW, pull up INPA & read all 8 cylinders to see which one is not firing correctly. This will help point out the culprit. Have you considered a bad injector, or a problem with the fuel system? When was the last time the fuel filter was serviced? At 3000 RPM's, the car is using a lot more fuel. Borrow a fuel pressure kit from an auto parts store if you don't have one?

In your previous post it said you used a scanner, what type. If it is BMW, pull up INPA & read all 8 cylinders to see which one is not firing correctly. This will help point out the culprit. Have you considered a bad injector, or a problem with the fuel system? When was the last time the fuel filter was serviced? At 3000 RPM's, the car is using a lot more fuel. Borrow a fuel pressure kit from an auto parts store if you don't have one?

Good Luck!

I have the carsoftool scanner. I am not seeing INPA under the units...can you tell me if I would have it or how to get to it? I am new to using this scanner.

Do I dare hit "program reset" under the DME or VTC/valvetronic unit menus?

I am not familiar with Carsoft. Rebel.Ranter can probably tell you what it can & can't do? I don't think you can do any damage with it? The BMTechnic package would be my suggestion for it's ease of setup & use. This will supply BMW software. Read the Coding thread that TampaMark started.

I had some time to fiddle around and last night I discovered something (finally!!).
If I unplug the MAF sensor the CEL comes on BUT the car runs better - no sudden RPM surging . I am going to try cleaning the MAF sensor and see if that works!

RPM's still fluctuate a little but I think its because of coils/spark plugs - I had 1 bad coil that got replaced and all my spark plugs are new (got them done at an INDY) but I am suspecting that they did not replace 1 spark plug on the driver's side because its too damn hard to get to - I guess I will get bavauto ignition coils and new spark plugs and do it myself.

Oh, one other thing, I have ruled our vacuum leaks - I sprayed WD 40 all around the engine bay and the hoses with the engine running and did not notice any changes ...

Best price and service I found for a new maf was maf-shop.com Its in Germany, but I got a new one for around $130 from an ebay auction. Showed up almost overnight.

WD40... not sure this stuff is great for vacuum detection. You are looking for something sSUPER volatile like Carb Cleaner, Brake cleaner, or contact cleaner. You want the vapors coming off of it to get sucked into the leak and alter the engine's running. WD is pretty flammable, but I doubt it would reveal a leak unless you got a direct hit... which isn't likely. The volatility lets you notice with near misses, and helps you target in on the spot.

Same here ,didnt see anyone mention this but mine only does with AC on.When idle picks up to 700 from AC being on.Seems to be a common problem with the n62.I have never found a definitive answer for this problem.The reprogramming you mention is in creasing valve lift at idle.I have seen a service bulletin on the procedure.Most forum research seem to point to worn intermediate levers?

I had some time to fiddle around and last night I discovered something (finally!!).
If I unplug the MAF sensor the CEL comes on BUT the car runs better - no sudden RPM surging . I am going to try cleaning the MAF sensor and see if that works!

RPM's still fluctuate a little but I think its because of coils/spark plugs - I had 1 bad coil that got replaced and all my spark plugs are new (got them done at an INDY) but I am suspecting that they did not replace 1 spark plug on the driver's side because its too damn hard to get to - I guess I will get bavauto ignition coils and new spark plugs and do it myself.

Oh, one other thing, I have ruled our vacuum leaks - I sprayed WD 40 all around the engine bay and the hoses with the engine running and did not notice any changes ...

Nope - I did the spark plugs/new coils/new MAF sensor and still the problem persists .
At the moment the car is at an Indy shop being checked out for vacuum leaks and anything else they can find ... will keep you all posted.

Update on my end of this issue. Took my car into the dealer finally over the weekend. They suggested a few things 1) replace spark plugs (I did that myself 6 months ago) 2) Replace the CCV's (I did that myself months ago as well, but they claimed they found a small rip in one) 3)Do their fuel injection service.

So I had them change the CCV's and do the fuel injection service which is the cleaner that they inject into the fuel system. I had my doubts about either thing working. The result was....nothing, unchanged. Still the same as it was except my wallet is $410 lighter.

They said that that the fuel delivery looked fine, so I don't think they suspected the fuel filters at all. I completely forgot to ask about possible vanos/valvetronic issues. I think they really are clueless if there isn't a check engine light for them to go on.

I've read the cam sensor discussion and thought to give them a try.Seems like they would throw a code ?

I would think the same thing. But I'm thinking I might pull/clean the old ones tonight and see if anything changes. If nothing, might try replacing them. Worth a shot I guess, the idle drives me nuts, I love the car otherwise.

Pulled all the cam sensors (removing the cowl cover really helps) and cleaned them each off and the connectors. Only one had very minor sludge on it. Looked at the connectors to the eccentric shaft sensors as well for any signs of oil as I've read that can happen and cause rough running as well. Mine were perfectly clean. No change in the idle. I tried again spraying the crap out of the engine bay with cleaner to try to find a vacuum leak. Nothing. I give up.

I was just thinking blodi I need to try this ,have you capped the intake at the CCV vacuum hose fittings?This would eliminate all the crankcase for leaks.Would have to be an intake leak at that point (if its a leak).

I put the newer style CCV caps on that don't have the hose fittings. Just the little breather hole. I capped the hose fitting on the intake pipe itself that the hoses used to go to. I noticed last night if I did pull the cap off the intake there was no change in the way the engine idled. You'd think that would be enough of a leak to change something. But I could even pull the plug off the MAF sensor and while the idle would change somewhat, it was still somewhat smooth and revved fine.