January 22, 2010

Go North, Brother!!!

English version (see below for french version of this blog post)The Northland is the large area starting after Auckland to the Northern end of Te Aotearoa, Cape Reinga. Open on both Pacific ocean and Tasman sea, it’s built in numbers of rocky and sandy bays that suit everyone. A few tourists but mainly holiday makers who come to enjoy sea activities and warm climate. Kayaking, scuba diving, fishing, surfing are the main activities. The Maori community is one of the biggest in the country with the East Cape. Although some places have hips of holiday houses, others kept that little community atmosphere. Also it’s easy to meet people as they are very friendly.

At Piha, our first stop, we are told that famous “you should’ve been here yesterday”. Today is strong onshore wind and heavily chopped swell, and cherry on cake, twenty keen surfers out. “Immediate departure” signal is on in my mind. But just before to leave we get offered tea by a couple of locals. We talk about their trips to Europe and then about the Basque country and you can believe me, you’re always welcome when you come from there.

On the road, we buy some great food. Fruits and veggies are delicious in that season. So is the honey, that tests like liquorices and the meat is the most tender have ever had. Although New-Zealand hasn’t got strong cooking traditions, at least there are amazing quality fresh products.

Sunny morning, I’m walking in « The endless summer » movie actors footprints. At Ahipara, the west headland opens on a goofy footers paradise. Reefs hold strong winter swells. In summer, it concentrates the swell and always has a little wave. The walk till the breaks is a pure happiness despite the 4x4 on the way.

At Cape Reinga, Tasman sea and Pacific ocean meet in a mess of white water. The Maori legend tells us that it’s a place where the soul leaves after death to go back to their original land. Highly spiritual spot, highly touristy as well. Naked Te Paki sand dunes are absolutely standing with the sunset. They overlook on 90 miles beach, making a massive natural protection around it.

The sun is hardly shinning throw clouds to tell us it’s time to wake up. I discover the estuary where we’ve spent the night as we arrived late last night. Around the van is a wide swimming pool but I can still see it’s got a flat tyre! We’ve been shacked as in a washing machine most of the night and the rain has only stopped an hour ago. Our rescue wheel, certainly burnt by too much heat, lets us down on the side of the road after only 50 meters. Fortunately, there are a few houses, I ask assistance to one of them, considering the large range of car, they may be able to give us a hand. The old man, a tan giant, first told me he had not the tools to repair it. But as I explained him for the rescue wheel and as there was no garage without half an hour drive, he gave it a go and grabbed the large wheel with one hand, as a giant would do! He managed to repair the big hole with some homemade secrets of his and we could drive to the garage! Lucky girls.

The sea is rough on the west coast while its neighbor from the east is enjoying summer sunshine. Perfect little bays with crystal blue water and luxurious vegetation are spread out along the east coast. The journey is a following of chances and hazards that make us stop longer somewhere rather than somewhere else. For example, in Leigh, within a discussion we got invited to stay with some friendly local. Two French girls in a van is pretty unusual, and people talk to us easily! We quickly know the little surfing community and share some great time around a surf, a meal and a bear, which a “must do” of kiwi culture, with moderation though. From one night, we stayed four. Between Mangawhai and Leigh is a handful of good surfing spots that you have to share with Aucklanders whom came for the swell of the weekend.