New cookbook fetes R.I.’s landmark chefs and spaces

Food is surely one of Rhode Island’s gifts to the rest of the 49 states. A new book, “Providence & Rhode Island Chef’s Table” by Linda Beaulieu (Lyons Press, $26.95) celebrates all that is food.

Gail Ciampa Journal Food Editor gailciampa

Food is surely one of Rhode Island’s gifts to the rest of the 49 states. Beaches are pretty high on the list, too.

A new book, “Providence & Rhode Island Chef’s Table” by Linda Beaulieu (Lyons Press, $26.95), celebrates the state’s culinary treasures — and the taste of the sea. In it she has gathered 100 recipes from chefs across state with lovely photos of the dishes that reveal not just the beauty of the food, but also of the place.

Beaulieu has also told the story of each chef or restaurant, and in many cases, described their place in the Ocean State universe. On these pages you’ll see not just chefs, but landmarks, too. There are pages devoted to Block Island and local Rhode Island ingredients, and profiles of trailblazing chefs including Plum Point Bistro owner/chef Ralph Conte.

Beaulieu, who won a James Beard Award for magazine writing for an article on Native American food in the National Culinary Review, had just announced her retirement when the opportunity to write the hardcover book arose. It’s part of “The Chef’s Table” series, published by Lyons Press and featuring the best chefs in cities, regions and states across the country including Boston, Chicago, Denver, San Diego, Cape Cod and Napa Valley.

“I really felt that this is the book I’ve always wanted to write,” she said. “The first thing I did was to compile a list of the top 100 restaurants in the state, and that list included the humble diner, fine dining establishments, and everything in between.”

Then the owners and chefs of those restaurants were invited to be featured in the book. Though the publisher made it clear there was no cost to those who would be featured, many never responded.

“So if you’re wondering why your favorite chef is not in the book, that’s why,” she said.

But more than 50 chefs and owners did respond, and that was the start of a four-month journey that took Beaulieu and photographer Al Weems into restaurant kitchens across the state.

“Many people are saying my book is ‘beautiful’ — that’s all due to Al,” Beaulieu credited. She insists he be on hand for each book-signing event.

“We had fun on each and every road trip, from our first photo shoot at Bacaro in Providence and then on to Avenue N in Rumford and Blackie’s Bulldog Tavern in Smithfield,” she said.

“On our many day trips, I usually rode shotgun in Al’s bright red Toyota, affectionately known as ‘the clown car.’

“A real bonus during our four-month journey was getting to eat many of the dishes the chefs created for their photo shoots,” Beaulieu said.

“The zabaglione at Camille’s, the bacon-wrapped meatloaf at 10 Prime Steak & Sushi, the wood-grilled swordfish at the Clarke Cooke House, the Scotch eggs at the White Horse Tavern, the sweet and sour shrimp at the Coast Guard House, the Jamestown Fish soup, the truffle calamari at Millonzi’s Bar & Grille, and so many others were beyond delicious.”

Next up for Beaulieu is publication of “The Seafood Lover’s Guide to New England,” covering all six states. She wrote the book in 2012, and it was scheduled for publication in the summer of 2013.

“But superstorm Sandy in the fall of 2012 damaged so many of the seafood restaurants and markets listed in the book that the publisher decided to delay the project by one year,” Beaulieu said.

Venda Ravioli, 275 Atwells Ave., Providence, (401) 421-9105, vendaravioli.com, will host a book signing with Linda Beaulieu and Al Weems, Saturday, July 12, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Free copies will be given to Venda customers spending a minimum of $10 in the store while supplies last.

Place a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the vegetable oil. Season the fish fillets on both sides with salt. Place the fish fillets in the hot pan skin-side down. Lower heat to medium-high. Cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the butter to the pan. Turn the fish fillets flesh-side down. Baste for the next 30 seconds or so. Move the fish fillets into the oven for about 5 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 135 to 140 degrees. Allow the fish to rest for 2 to 3 minutes before serving.

In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, verjus, herbs, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Slowly add the olive oil to make a vinaigrette. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine the tomatoes, beans, radishes and shallot. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the vinaigrette and mix well. Allow to marinate for 2 to 3 minutes.

To serve, prepare four dinner plates with an equal amount of the tomato mixture on each. Place a piece of striped bass on each plate. Garnish with garden herbs and flowers. Finish with a generous sprinkle of the dried olives.

In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, sauté the garlic and shallots in a little vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon of unsalted butter. Sauté until the garlic becomes fragrant and nutty, and both the garlic and shallots begin to get some brown color.

Add the mussels to the pan, and stir to get the mussels coated with the sautéed garlic and shallots.

Deglaze the pan with the white wine, and let simmer for a minute.

Add the heavy cream and Dijon mustard, and stir until the mussels begin to open and the sauce is well emulsified.

When all the mussels are open, add the chopped herbs and remaining 1 teaspoon of butter. Stir so that the herbs are well incorporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve the mussels and the sauce in a large bowl with pommes frites or crusty bread for dipping.