This is a woodworking forum and I know there are some electricians on this site, so I have a question for you. I am extending a circuit from an interior receptacle, going through the wall to the weather and terminating in a switch which will in turn provide a path to outdoor receptacles. Obviously all wiring devices will be in weatherproof boxes and wiring will be in conduit. My question then is; do I need a DPST switch (switch both legs) or can I use a SPST switch in the outdoor? I could probably get by with a SPST switch, but I don’t want to be in violation of the NEC. If I need the former, where can I find such a device? I know they are available as a toggle switch, but is there one with the wall switch configuration?

I’d use DPST so both legs are switched, particularly when extending an existing circuit that may have something plugged into it upstream (thus making the neutral hot as well). Only slightly more expensive, but safer IMO. Got no idea what the code sez about it, but I’m sure one of the code gurus will chime in shortly.

You can use a DPST switch if you’d like, but it’s not necessary. Simultaneously switching the hot and neutral in this situation functionally does nothing. When you switch the hot off, the neutral is dead wire.

Personally if I wanted to switch everything, I’d put the switch inside and only have the receptacles outside. Put a gfci in the first receptacle, load side the rest off of that gfci and call it a day.

You can use a DPST switch if you d like, but it s not necessary. Simultaneously switching the hot and neutral in this situation functionally does nothing. When you switch the hot off, the neutral is dead wire.

Personally if I wanted to switch everything, I d put the switch inside and only have the receptacles outside. Put a gfci in the first receptacle, load side the rest off of that gfci and call it a day.

- Gilley23

A lot of people don’t realize that plugging something into that circuit upstream will complete it because it has electricity flowing through it on to the ground. If you put a screwdriver on a neutral and have a path to ground electricity will flow through you from the neutral. The electrons don’t stop flowing at the device.

A lot of people don t realize that plugging something into that circuit upstream will complete it because it has electricity flowing through it on to the ground. If you put a screwdriver on a neutral and have a path to ground electricity will flow through you from the neutral. The electrons don t stop flowing at the device.

A lot of people don t realize that plugging something into that circuit upstream will complete it because it has electricity flowing through it on to the ground. If you put a screwdriver on a neutral and have a path to ground electricity will flow through you from the neutral. The electrons don t stop flowing at the device.

- patcollins

- Gilley23

My dad found that out the hard way, welding a screwdriver to the electrical box, shocking himself, and dropping a $200 brass light fixture on the tile floor.

Out of the electrical business for quite awhile now, retired but I believe it against the N.E.C to switch the neutral conductor. It may have changed since I quit working, but its really no reason to switch it anyway. Gerald

The current flows from the hot side, through the motor, light bulb etc, through the neutral back to the source. Providing a path to ground from the neutral provides a way for electricity to get to ground, which is where it wants to go.

Where do you think the current goes to after it flows through the device?

Here is a pretty good link about why you can get shocked from the neutral wire. Long story short is there is always potential between one ground and another, generally it will be less than the full 120 volts though.