Royal Enfield Queries

This is a discussion on Royal Enfield Queries within Motorbikes, part of the BHP India category; ... NOTE: do not kick and change the crank position/timing gear position in between.
Turning the crank will not disturb ...

... NOTE: do not kick and change the crank position/timing gear position in between.

Turning the crank will not disturb timing as long as cams are not taken off Afaik. And it helps to have the tappets in lowest position to drop in the push rods & tighten rocker blocks without having the valve spring load on them.

Before removing the assorted hardware to repair the pushrod, it is a good idea to position the crankshaft at or near TDC on the compression stroke.

Just push the kick starter until you feel the piston starting its compression stroke, then push a little bit further until the resistance of the compression is suddenly gone.
Then, start your dissassembly as described by the others.

Doing this will assure that both valves are fully closed and there will be no tension on the rocker arms or valves.

So My 78 Standard is running pretty well. A couple of issues.
1. If i drive with the headlight turned off, the bike kind of redlines (wont Rev any higher) and i can achieve a top speed of around 85. Once i turn on the headlight, this issue resolves itself and the bike runs perfectly. So i have to ride with the light turned on even in broad daylight to be able to ride it perfectly.
2. In heavy traffic, the engine gets HOT and after that, the gears become really hard to shift. Have to move my foot and use the heel of my foot to change gears sometimes.

Any Suggestions as to what could be the problem? I dont want my mechanic to make it sound like quantum physics and charge me a bomb for a simple job.

So My 78 Standard is running pretty well. A couple of issues.
1. If i drive with the headlight turned off, the bike kind of redlines (wont Rev any higher) and i can achieve a top speed of around 85. Once i turn on the headlight, this issue resolves itself and the bike runs perfectly. So i have to ride with the light turned on even in broad daylight to be able to ride it perfectly.

Any Suggestions as to what could be the problem? I dont want my mechanic to make it sound like quantum physics and charge me a bomb for a simple job.

This sounds like a battery overcharging issue. I had a similar problem around 75 kmph on my bull.
Happens usually to people who have used bullets of the old DC type wiring ( where headlight is directly connected to battery). You know when you use these, you are so careful to limit the use of headlight and horns to avoid the battery from draining on short rides.
I had such wiring on a 6v battery.
Changed it to 12v and changed the wiring to the newer style, where only the pilot lamps are connected to the battery directly --- headlight works only if the engine is running.

There is also a regulator rectifier you can add in your circuit to stop this problem.

2. In heavy traffic, the engine gets HOT and after that, the gears become really hard to shift. Have to move my foot and use the heel of my foot to change gears sometimes.

Are you using the clutch to be in gear while waiting on dead stop traffic for a long while ? Might be a because of that. For deadstop traffic, always use the neutral finder to move over to neutral when you have to stay still. As a rule of thumb, do not keep the clutch depressed for more than 2-3 minutes.
Not sure if this is because of that, but early on when I was getting accustomed to riding with a left side brake, I had this habit and I had this exact same problem.

This sounds like a battery overcharging issue. I had a similar problem around 75 kmph on my bull.
Happens usually to people who have used bullets of the old DC type wiring ( where headlight is directly connected to battery). You know when you use these, you are so careful to limit the use of headlight and horns to avoid the battery from draining on short rides.
I had such wiring on a 6v battery.
Changed it to 12v and changed the wiring to the newer style, where only the pilot lamps are connected to the battery directly --- headlight works only if the engine is running.

There is also a regulator rectifier you can add in your circuit to stop this problem.

Hi Ashok,
I'm already running on the new wiring(12 V) and this has been working fine for the past three years. Its only when i ride it WITHOUT the headlights that i face this issue. About this regulator rectifier, im not sure., Can you please elaborate a little bit about it?

Are you using the clutch to be in gear while waiting on dead stop traffic for a long while ? Might be a because of that. For deadstop traffic, always use the neutral finder to move over to neutral when you have to stay still. As a rule of thumb, do not keep the clutch depressed for more than 2-3 minutes.
Not sure if this is because of that, but early on when I was getting accustomed to riding with a left side brake, I had this habit and I had this exact same problem.

Clutching and the brake being on the left aren't really much of an issue for me either. I'm accustomed to riding in Bangalore Traffic with a suicide shifter, instead of the regular foot operated lever. I switch to neutral as soon as there is no need for any power delivery.

Before removing the assorted hardware to repair the pushrod, it is a good idea to position the crankshaft at or near TDC on the compression stroke.

Just push the kick starter until you feel the piston starting its compression stroke, then push a little bit further until the resistance of the compression is suddenly gone.
Then, start your dissassembly as described by the others.

Doing this will assure that both valves are fully closed and there will be no tension on the rocker arms or valves.

Thanks. Usually I check the TDC by removing the spark plug and inserting a plastic straw (i have to be careful) and kicking by hand to see the piston come on TDC. As mine is an Electra, the ammeter needle does not flick for showing TDC !! It remains in center unless there is some load on the battery like lights or horn.

Hi Ashok,
I'm already running on the new wiring(12 V) and this has been working fine for the past three years. Its only when i ride it WITHOUT the headlights that i face this issue. About this regulator rectifier, im not sure., Can you please elaborate a little bit about it?

If you have been running on the new circuit and there is no change that happened ( new battery, new riding timings -- viz. no day running to hours of day light running etc), I dont think over charging is the issue.
My case was that, with the old type wiring, I was so careful about using headlight in traffic for fear of it draining the battery. Also I needed battery recharge once in 2-3 months. Changed it to new style wiring, but my habit still continued -- I used to switch off headlight and move on pilot lamps when ever there was streetlight. And my bull did not have signal lights for turning. Turns out my battery was getting charged to a maximum without me using it at all.
The short term solution for that -- I was advised to use more of headlight and horns.
The regulator and rectifier unit will cut off charging when the battery charging is complete. And resume when it drops. I think it comes built in on the newer models, but when you change the wiring on an older one, the mechs do not put it in there. Take your bike to an automobile electrician and he may be able to explain further.

All the above valid only if you have the habit of not using the electricals much. For me, the symptoms clearly pointed to the problem and got sorted out quickly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by abhimanyuargal

Clutching and the brake being on the left aren't really much of an issue for me either. I'm accustomed to riding in Bangalore Traffic with a suicide shifter, instead of the regular foot operated lever. I switch to neutral as soon as there is no need for any power delivery.

Shouldnt be the same issue was what I have. You may want to check the clutch plates anyhow, but they will give you other indicators too once worn out ( like loss of power). Hope somebody else here could give you an answer.

On another note, if you have a photograph of the suicide clutch bike that you drove, pls post it here or elsewhere in the forum. Would be a treat to watch.

Note from Team-bhp support: Please use the EDIT or MULTI-QUOTE buttons instead of typing one post after another on the same thread!

Last edited by moralfibre : 19th December 2012 at 10:08.
Reason: Back to back posts.

Hi folks! I've finally got the nod to get 'the bull' and this would be my first bike! I did visit the Brand Store in Besant Nagar a few weeks back to check out the CL 350 and Electra Twinspark and I liked the seating position of the Electra, although I didn't test ride any of these yet. I'm mostly going for the Electra as it ticks most of my requirements for now.

I have a question specific to Chennai Bulleteers - Would like to know which of the Chennai dealers is best in terms of your dealership/service experience.

So guys, please advise on the above as I am looking to book the bike in January, 2013.

Is there a way to reduce vibes on my 1978 Bull... I know that Bullet vibrates. Heck but the vibes are tolerable. I have done solo from Pune to Kerala without any pain... But oflate the vibes from my ride are rattling my body... I changed to gas shockers, still the bike vibrates, tightened the engine mounting bolts, still it continues... What can be the problem??? One mech said that crank components are work out and needs replacement, he was quoting crazy charges... something like 12k for replacement, I suspected something amiss, took it to another guy for a quick check up and he said crank and its compoents are in okay condition. I am really confused need some leads.

And if I plonk in a AJS replica muffler on my Bullet... Will it create any problems??? Currently my ride is on what you call an Indore silencer.
Thanks in advance...

thats the cause , changed the Indore one & fitted the original ( its a june 09 model *) ride improved . its smooth , no power loss . But yet to check on highways .
I think the Indore ones are not tuned or has anything to do with back pressure but for creating the firing effect ( Dhuk Dhuk ) .

Not sure if you have already tried this - Basically you need to park the bike on main stand, loosen the mouting bolts and then raise the RPM let the engine vibrate as much as it can, and then tighten the bolts.*

Another minor thing (but See important I think) - see if the gaskets / washers used at various bolts / nuts are worn out. If so, replace all of them and see if you notice difference.
Lastly - As Sudarshan has pointed out, switching back to stock exhaust could also reduce vibrations and back-firing.

* I have read it in one of the threads either here (Team-BHP) or in BCMTouring; unable to search the extract thread / link though.

thats the cause , changed the Indore one & fitted the original ( its a june 09 model *) ride improved . its smooth , no power loss . But yet to check on highways .
I think the Indore ones are not tuned or has anything to do with back pressure but for creating the firing effect ( Dhuk Dhuk ) .

Sudarshan

* friend's bike .

What is the stock exhaust of a 1978 Bullet??? Is it 'Short Bottle' Silencer???
@bulletboy76: Will try out your method this weekend...