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Changed my rear shocks, that took about a half hour.
Changed a bunch of stuff in the shifter bushings, with the main event being the decayed rubber bellows. It turns out that even with my chicken shaped arms and hands that those people are right, save the shifter bushings for when you've already got the driveshaft out, and now I know why it's called a bitch clip. And I want a hoist.
Changed rad and hoses to NA spec. Also more annoying than it was advertised to be.
Still have box of front control arms, shocks and tie rod ends to go, but the sine wave idle speed annoys me more than the darty-ness at 120 km/h+.

Passed through Port Perry in July and thought kind thoughts towards Crazn Azn.

Yeah I saw that. A good write up for sure. What bushings did you put back in? I forget.

I went with OEM rubber. The RTABS were cracking, but not that horrible. My main reason for doing the job was the subframe bushings, which were a little overdue for replacement. I got my parts via GermanParts near 400/Finch. Not sure the brand of the subframe bushings, as they came loose (not in boxes), but they did have the BMW P/Ns on them. The RTABs were from Lemforder, as were the trailing arm links. I also did the inner soft brake lines, and the input shaft and output shaft seals on the diff, including the o-rings. All told, parts and hardware were a little south of $300.

I went with OEM rubber. The RTABS were cracking, but not that horrible. My main reason for doing the job was the subframe bushings, which were a little overdue for replacement. I got my parts via GermanParts near 400/Finch. Not sure the brand of the subframe bushings, as they came loose (not in boxes), but they did have the BMW P/Ns on them. The RTABs were from Lemforder, as were the trailing arm links. I also did the inner soft brake lines, and the input shaft and output shaft seals on the diff, including the o-rings. All told, parts and hardware were a little south of $300.