GET A QUOTE

IN SHOP

FEATURED PRODUCTS

SHOP NOW

JOIN THE BMC

UPGRADE YOUR CLUB MEMBERSHIP

READ SUMMIT ONLINE

TECHNICAL REPORTS

The BMC Technical Committee investigates reports of equipment failure and publishes
the results in these technical reports. Technical notes publish points of interest,
not related to a specific investigation.

This harness was sent to the BMC by a climbing wall. An indoor climber took a lead fall and a leg loop (right leg) failed (user was not injured in the fall). From general inspection, environmental or solvent degradation of the Black Diamond Blizzard harness is clear. The heavy fading of the belay loop suggests that the harness has been damaged by a solvent/acid and may have been left hanging to dry, which has accelerated degradation on the leg loops. The strength of the fibres near the failed section of the harness have been reduced due to the degradation, and resulted in a failure of tape (connecting the leg loop to the lower tying in point) in an indoor lead fall.

A Wild Country Technical Friend 1.0 and Wild Country Technical Friend 0.5 both failed a routine inspection and the owner sent them for examination. Both cams appear to have failed due to bending fatigue in their cables. These cases emphasise the importance of regular inspection of all climbing equipment. Users should also be aware that if equipment is used heavily, it may not last as long as the manufacturer’s estimated life span.

This karabiner failed following a fall by a lead climber. The failure mode of the karabiner is consistent with the sling attached to the protection being hooked in the nose of the karabiner holding the gate open and loading it inappropriately.

Category:
KarabinerResult:
Reports: Wear/Misuse

Year:
2013BMC ID:
05/08

BMC MEMBERSHIP

Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »

BMC SHOP

Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »

TRAVEL INSURANCE

Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »

YOUTH & EQUITY

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is the representative body that exists
to protect the freedoms and promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and
mountaineers, including ski-mountaineers. The BMC recognises that climbing, hill
walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death.
Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be
responsible for their own actions.