Let’s all gather ’round. I have collected and compiled 10 tips for gathering fabrics. Whether you are working with thick cotton to lightweight sheers, there’s a technique for you. Tips #3, #5, and #7 are included in the online episode of Sewing With Nancy. My go-to favorite tip is #8.

Tip #1—Use a different color thread in the needle and the bobbin

You’ll soon see that there are several ways to gather, and having contrasting thread colors is helpful when trying to distinguish between the needle and bobbin thread. It’s not necessary to use a high contrast as you’ll see in the photos, but I am sure that you figured that out already! (I used red thread in the needle and black thread in the bobbin in the below samples.)

Tip #2—The bobbin thread is easier to pull—sew from the right side

When choosing to gather with two rows of gathering threads, sew from the right side. The bobbin thread is always easier to pull. That feature has to do with how the stitches are formed. The right side of a gathered fabric is aligned to the right side of corresponding fabric. Having the gathering threads on the wrong side, will give you the flexibility to easily adjust the gathers during the pinning process.

Tip #3—Lock the threads at the beginning of the seam

This tip is not widely suggested, yet it saves me lots of time. Generally, it is recommended to wrap the beginning threads figure-eight style around a vertically placed pin to prevent the threads from pulling out during the gathering process. Stitching 2–3 stitches and then back stitching, does the same thing, but faster!

Tip #4—Test the stitch length

With medium to heavier weight fabrics, stitch two parallel rows of basting stitches within the seam allowance, using a relatively long stitch length, 4.0–5.0. The longest stitch is not always the best since there is too much “play” of the fabric in the long stitch, causing uneven gathers.

Use a much shorter stitch length with lightweight fabrics. The length used in this sample was a 3.5 stitch length.

Tip #5—Add three rows of stitching to sheer fabrics

This is an optional tip, yet I find sheer fabrics lie flatter if three rows of stitches are sewn within the seam. It takes a little extra time, but worth it! Compare the smoothness of the gathers in the photo below compared to the photo above.

Tip 6# —Don’t use the machine thread cutter when gathering by pulling the bobbin threads

If you have the thread-cutting feature on your machine, it’s tricky to remember to pull the threads at the end of the seam and cut manually. The automatic thread cutter cuts the threads very close to the fabric—too close to easily find and then pull the threads.

Tip #7—Use a serger for gathering when 1/4″ seams are allowed

Ah, I really like this way of gathering! It’s almost impossible to stitch two rows of basting stitches within a 1/4″ seam allowance. If you have a serger, simply serge from the wrong side of the fabric with a 4-thread overlock stitch and a long stitch length. Separate the needle threads from the looper threads. This time, pull the needle threads. Presto, perfect gathers.

Tip #8—Zigzag over the bobbin thread for a secure gathering technique

This is my go-to gathering technique:

Stitch from the wrong side of the fabric.

Take one stitch, hold on to the thread tail of the needle thread and gently pull upward—the bobbin thread (black thread) will loop up.

Pull up the bobbin thread, pulling the thread as long as the area to be gathered. Lay the thread on top of the fabric.

Set the machine for a zigzag stitch. Test the stitch width and length. I prefer a 4.0–5.0 width and a 2.5 length. (The narrower zigzag width provides control of the gathers.)

Pull the long thread to gather the fabric!

Tip #9—Zigzag over a cord when gathering heavier fabrics

Stitch from the wrong side of the fabric.

Set the machine for a zigzag stitch. Test out the stitch width and length. I prefer to 4.0–5.0 width and a 2.5 length. The narrower zigzag width provides more control of the gathers.

Rather than zigzagging over the pulled-up bobbin thread, place a heavy cord on top of the fabric. Zigzag over the cord.

After stitching, anchor the beginning and ending of the cord by wrapping figure-eight style around a vertically placed pin.

Pull the free end of the cord and gather.

Tip #10—Gather using the no-stitching technique

Talk about easy! I use this technique when stitching doll clothes, lightweight fabrics, and other small projects.

Press Fuse ‘n Gather(a fusible gathering tape) to the wrong side of a strip of fabric along the top of the fabric. (Follow the iron setting as detailed on the package.) The stitches are tinted blue on the side of the tape that must face upward.

Pull the blue gathering threads at both ends, creating a 2″–3″ thread tail.

At one end secure the threads by wrapping them in figure-eight style around a pin.

On the other end, pull the blue gathering threads to create the gathers.

Ta dah!

I’ve written and demonstrated each of these gathering techniques. This is the first time that I’ve put them

What is your go-to gathering method? Leave your answer in the comments for a chance to win a package of Fuse ‘n Gather from Clover. A winner will be randomly selected on July 18.

It was heartwarming to read all of your wonderful comments sharing your favorite charity at the end of my blog titled, Patriotic Tumbler Flag Quilt Tutorial. The random winner of Trace’n Create Grandmother’s One Patch: Tumbler Block is Rosalind Gutierrez. She said: I support Arizona Blankets 4 Kids, which serves ill and traumatized children.

79 Comments

MaryEllen KalbJuly 20, 2015

I hated gathering since I used the two lines of stitching and pulled on the ends–it never worked well. Your idea of pulling on the bobbin thread and stitching over it –is the best idea yet. The fuse and gather idea is another great idea. Who stays up at night and thinks of these ideas?

Joyce BennettJuly 17, 2015

Nancy,
I watched you video on fancy feet 2 and you used plastic tape to staablize the shoulder of a knit outfit. The plastic tape irritates my skin. Do you have another method?

Nancy ZiemanJuly 18, 2015

Joyce, cut a 1/2″ bias strip of lightweight fusible interfacing and fuse to one of the shoulder seams. Hope this is a workable solution for you.

PatJuly 17, 2015

I love to use zig zag method over buttonhole thread when doing projects that have many feet of gathering. It’s so.oo.o quick.

I have done what Ell does, holding your hand behind the presser foot, have only used it for small amount. And I have used all of the others too, gathering is not my most favorite thing to do, but the serger makes it simple.

Barbara WaltersJuly 15, 2015

I”ve always used the two threads method but I never anchored the one end. Love all that you do Nancy.

Karen paytonJuly 13, 2015

Pulling the bobbin thread has been my go to way to gather….but Nancy’s tip for pulling up the thread to the top looks easy and better! As always thanks

Chris HerronJuly 13, 2015

I like Fuse n Gather for doll clothes and the bear clothes I make for my handmade teddy bears.

AnneJuly 13, 2015

I have never used the gathering tape but would love to give it a try! I think I have just used the two line stitch in the past, but have not done it very often.

PamJuly 13, 2015

My go to gathering method is the two rows of machine basting. I have from time to time used the zigzag stitch over a cord. I love the idea of the fuse and gather. I can’t wait to try it, whether I win or not. Thanks for all the great tips.

Jo KassabaumJuly 12, 2015

I don’t gather by hand any more. I use a ruffle foot or gathering foot on my machine or serger to produce any ruffles I need.

BevMJuly 12, 2015

I have never seen the narrow Fuse and Gather. I make a lot of doll clothes, so I would like to try that!
I usually use technique #2, but I have also used #8, plus #9 with fishing line.

I ZigZag over a length of crochet thread. It’s much heavier so less likely to break. Also allowing me to pull from both sides, especially useful for long rows of gathering.

ClaraJuly 12, 2015

Nancy, I am pleased to learn that treatment is proving successful as you continue to heal. Prayers and thoughts are with you.
I have not made anything with gathers for quite some time but when I did, I used the two thread method. I was very fortunate to have won your book “The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew” which is filled with so much information and I will have your gathering techniques forever. Thank you again for this wonderful book.

Nia LorreJuly 12, 2015

I am definitely a double row gatherer, but I can’t believe I never thought to do the serger method. I will be trying that next.

Audrey philipsJuly 12, 2015

I usually use the 2 thread gathering method, but divide my fabric in quarters, starting and stopping at each quarter by leaving long threads to pull the bobbin thread to make the gathers. Much easier to Adjust gathers. I need to try the server method. Need to use my server more often.

Peggy VJuly 12, 2015

I love to use method to zig zag over the bobbin thread!! I also use this method when I stitch a diagonal line, works like a charm!!!

DeborahJuly 12, 2015

This will be great for my new to be, great grand baby. Due in January or February 2016. I’ve already started making a few things. Diaper soakers, gowns, burp pads, blankets, and caps and booties. We’re looking forward to this baby. It is our oldest daughter’s oldest daughter. We will have 4 generations. We used to have 5, but are down to 3 now. Don’t think I’ll live to see 5 again.

TinaJuly 12, 2015

I have used the double row of stitches but would like to try the serger method. That seems faster.

MarthaJuly 12, 2015

Zig zag over the bobbin thread is my way. Learned it from one of your shows. Thank you.

Torry HemmertJuly 12, 2015

I have used the clear elastic for gathering many projects. I like the results. However, I’m going to try the zigzag over the bobbin thread idea for the project I just started: 8 aprons with a gathered ruffle. Your timing couldn’t have been more wonderful for me!

Nelda MohrJuly 11, 2015

I zigzag over a thread or narrow cord which I pull to gather. It works, but the fuse and gather sounds much easier.

EllJuly 11, 2015

I can make a lot happen by holding my finger behind the presser foot as it stitches. It is not the answer for all situations, but it is surprising how well it works.

Liz M.July 11, 2015

I have used the 2 thread over the bobbin thread but have been using the zig zag method and find it much easier

Sue LitmanJuly 11, 2015

These techniques will take my gathering to a more professional level.

Bonnie CottonJuly 11, 2015

Using the 2 or 3 thread method suggested, I make sure that the stitches line up perfectly. Meaning, make sure that when the needle first enters the fabric on the 2nd and (if used) 3rd row that it is exactly opposite the first stitch in the original row. This way it makes tiny pleats that lay so very nice. I make a lot of doll clothes and sew for my grand daughter (3 years old) and it works so well on these little things.

DawnJuly 11, 2015

I usually use 2 rows of stitching however I want to try some of the other methods. I learned many new ideas with this blog post. Thank you.

I like the multi step zigzag stitch over the dental floss, guiding the floss or cord under the center stitch of the multi stitch zigzag. If you accidentally catch a stitch, just snip it later. This stitch holds the fabrics flat nicely for the gathering.

LynJuly 11, 2015

I zig zag over dental floss and gather from both sides so only having to do half the distance with each end of the dental floss

SharonJuly 11, 2015

I find that I use the two rows of stitches and pull the bobbin thread technique the most simply because it gives me the best looking gathers. If I have heavier fabrics, I use the zig zag stitch over cord. I have even taken elastic and stretched it and stitched it down on garments that have a blouson top attached to a gathered skirt. This worked great on them allowing a little stretch when done that would normally not have been there.

LorijJuly 11, 2015

I use the zigzag method most of the time.when using the straight stitch method I’ve found that if there’s a lot of gathering it’s best to divide the length of the stitches into three or four sets. Thanks for the chance to win

KayJuly 11, 2015

I used the two rows of stitching for gathering until I got a serger so now I use both depending on the project. Will try some of the other tips next time. Thanks

ZB WonderWomanJuly 11, 2015

Two-thread. Worked great with cotton petticoat skirts in the 80s. With all the buzz about tulle petticoats, serger will do the work. The longer I watch Sewing With Nancy, the more solutions to problems appear. Good feeling.

Brenda BushJuly 11, 2015

I change the settings on my machine to the longest stitch (5) and highest tension (9). Can adjust gathers using the needle thread. Works great.

MaxineJuly 11, 2015

I usually use the bobbin method, but I jut bought a new serger and I want to try that method. I have never used the Fuse and gather tape but would love to try that also.

thank you Nancy for the wonderful tips and I also ordered you Absolute easiest way to\sew book I love it.

Maxine

Ernie AcunaJuly 11, 2015

I like to use a shirring foot. I get a good even gather every time. I haven’t tried the gathering tape yet. It would be interesting to try.

Pat KramerJuly 11, 2015

I like the method of sewing over a thread or cord. I use heavier crochet thread. I have used it for year and it has never failed me.

Jan N.July 11, 2015

I’ve been using the bobbin thread method which I learned from you many years ago. Very easy and the thread doesn’t break!

LOOJuly 11, 2015

..You can use CLEAR ELASTIC, about 80cent a yard…Example, you have 24″ of fabric, use 12″ clear elastic, stretch it out, in the seam allowance, zigzag over it..voila, perfect ruffle, FAST…trim it away when you trim the seam allowance..

Queen E HamlinJuly 11, 2015

I like the 2-thread method for gathering, but I will try some of the others.

Priya KapilJuly 11, 2015

I am going to try the serger method asap on the doll clothes that I make for my grandchildren. I use the gathering foot (pleater) for heavier fabric as it makes a thinner gather which is good for dolls and children’s clothes. Thank you so much for all the help and advice that you have given us down through the years.

craftygrammaJuly 11, 2015

So glad you are doing well. I gather often – two grandgirls who love dresses and twirly skirts. I have tried many of these, recently made a ruched sundress but I hate gathering so I zigzagged over thin elastic. It worked very well but was harder than I thought it would be. Yikes! Sometimes I pleat, sometimes I pin a lot, but I will try your bobbin thread and the dental floss soon.
I would love your gathering tape, but have been met with blank looks when asking for it at my local fabric stores. sigh.
Thanks and keep doing your healing work.

Christina WeilandJuly 11, 2015

I use the zig zag over bobbin thread method the most (except for setting sleeves). If your bobbin runs out before you are done, you can just re-fill the bobbin and keep going. If the thread you’re stitching over runs out, you can tie on another strand and keep going. You eliminate two frustrations at once. I’ll add that once you’re comfortable with this method, you can pull on the thread you’re stitching over to gather as you go and not waste thread, and there’s less danger of breaking a thread mid-gather. This is great for gathering huge quantities of fabric, such as layers of a tutu or multiple dance skirts or a petticoat. You can also get real fancy and put heavier thread in the bobbin. If you’re worried about distributing gathers evenly, just mark increments of the piece you’re gathering to match up with your seam allowance.

CandiceJuly 11, 2015

I almost always use the 2 row method, but love the 3 with sheer fabric. (could have used that with my Mother of Bride dress – oh well). Gathering tape I’ve heard of but never tried. It’s now on my list. I also use the serger, but with the differential set to gather for me, and I can adjust if needed by pulling, or stretching, the threads.

I have been using the technique I learned from you a long time ago: pull the bobbin thread up and pull as long as the fabric, then zigzag over it. Always works great on the type of fabrics I often sew.

PatJuly 11, 2015

Like Bernice, the two row stitching was taught in Home Ec. class many years ago and that’s the way I’ve always done it. I’m anxious to try these other methods, though. Especially the zigzag stitch over the bobbin thread.

JoanneJuly 11, 2015

I srill use the old high school method for gathering! I like your method using the long bobbin thread. And how clever to use a pin and thtread with a figure eight! Thank you for all the great tips Nancy!

JoanneJuly 11, 2015

I still use the old high school sewing class methods for gathering!
I’ll try your method of pulling a long bobbin thread. How clever to wrap thread around a pin in a figure eight! Love your tips.

Shelia RittgersJuly 11, 2015

I zigzag over dental floss — it is quick and strong.

RobinJuly 11, 2015

Thanks for these tips! Most of these are very new to me. I will definitely try them on my projects. Thanks for bringing so many new techniques to the sewing world!

Pauline PireJuly 11, 2015

My favorite way to gather is to zigzag over a cord like heavy
button hole thread. (Do they still make that thread)? LOL
I need to get some of the Fuse’n Gather I wish I had that
when making doll clothes.

Susan MelgaardJuly 11, 2015

Thank you, thank you!!!!! I have two blouses that need new elastic in the wrist bands. I have been putting off replacing it for two years. Now, I feel ready to tackle that job.

Patti WhiteJuly 11, 2015

I have used the double row long stitch & it is still my favorite for general fabric. But the Fuse ‘n Gather sounds like a great idea on smaller items & doll clothes. I see that as a time saver!

Melody LutzJuly 11, 2015

I use double rows with loose tension. Some of the tips made me say WOW! THANKS!

Ronda HalvorsenJuly 11, 2015

Thanks Nancy! A great refresher I like the serger method, its my favorite, especially on doll clothes! I do want to try the gather tape though!
Hope you are continuing on your healing journey, continued prayers to you and your family.
Blessings,

Mitzy, how cleaver, Dental floss I am going to use it! The only trouble I have had with gathering is pulling to hard and breaking the threads but dental floss won’t break, genius!!

BereniceJuly 11, 2015

I make lots of dresses and formals, and still hand basting stitches are my go to on lighter weight fabrics. I do use the zig-zag over cording or alone on heavier fabric, but rarely do that.

CynthiaJuly 11, 2015

I too love zigzagging over the bobbin thread for quick and easy gathering on most of my sewing projects!

Cindy madsenJuly 11, 2015

Nancy, I have been sewing for nearly 60 years, your article on gathering made me feel like a beginner haha. Thank you for the hints. Makes my life so much easier. Loved your TV show, and miss it. I will certainly will purchase your book. God has certainly blessed you. Yank you, cindy

Diana G.July 11, 2015

Thanks for those tips, amazing how tips can change the way one sews !! Thanks for the opportunity to win !

Marjorie SchwagerJuly 11, 2015

I always struggled with the one or two thread, until I saw a tutorial by Nancy telling us to use the bobbin thread to pull. The new product works very well, especially on small projects and for those of us who have arthritis in our hands. I would love for my next package to be a gift from Nancy.

ReneaJuly 11, 2015

I use two rows of stitching for doing gathering. Thanks for the wonderful giveaway.

Mary AnnJuly 11, 2015

I have always just used the 2 rows of longer stitches. Now I have a bunch of new techniques to try and with 3 granddaughters under age of 7 twirly skirts are often on my sewing table.

Margaret C.July 11, 2015

I have on occasion used the gathering presser foot. It is not applicable universally. When inserting a sleeve I block off areas to distribute the gathers evenly.

LuLuJuly 11, 2015

I have always used the 2 rows of regular stitching ….pulling the threads to make my gathers look good! I would like to try Fuse ‘n Gather!

MartyJuly 11, 2015

Always use two long basting-stitch method, but I’ve never gathered anything other than cotton or cotton-blend fabrics. Thanks for the tips with other fabrics!

Currently, I use my gathering foot set on #6. I make lots of patchwork skirts for my grand daughters. I will be purchasing the tape for their American Girl dolls in the immediate future! Thanks for the tips! Continued prayers for your complete recovery!

SheilaJuly 11, 2015

I like using the serger to gather especially when making doll clothes or when gathering a ruffle around a pillow top.

BonnyeJuly 11, 2015

I use the three thread method. the gathers distribute evenly making the project look professional.

Eleanor GibsonJuly 11, 2015

My favorite way will be the fuse tape which I had not heard about before reading this.

LadyDJuly 11, 2015

I like the three rows of stitches method when I absolutely MUST gather something… but I avoid gathering whenever I can, as it’s much too frustrating and fussy for my pleasure.

Mary SJuly 11, 2015

Long basting threads, it’s the only way I’ve done that for years. I have not tried all the newer methods, but like the fuse and gather and would like to try that method.

Kathy CJuly 11, 2015

Hi,
Thanks for listing all of these tips in one place. Some were familiar to me but some were new.

Mary WippoldJuly 11, 2015

My favorite way to gather fabric is by zigzagging over cord. If the fabric is heavy or it’s a long piece of fabric I zigzag over unwaxed dental floss.

Sharon AllenJuly 11, 2015

My mom taught me the bobbin thread method that she learned … from you! Thanks for the tips, I am always ready to learn.

MelissaJuly 11, 2015

Sigh, can someone from Nancy’s team just come here and explain it to me in person! LOL. My gathers are so uneven…I keep practicing and practicing!

Mary ArvayJuly 11, 2015

Pulling up the bobbin thread has become my go to method of gathering. I used the double row of longer stitch length prior to this method and was frustrated with one of the bobbin threads breaking while pulling up gathers. I’ve never used the gathering tape, but your example looks impressive!

BERNICE HIGHBERGERJuly 11, 2015

My great grand loves skirts so I do gather often.
When taking Home Ec in high school many years ago we were taught the 2 stitching line. I mostly use that method. I do use the gathering tape occasionally and like it too.

Mitzy MillsJuly 11, 2015

Very similar to your cord method, you can use dental floss and zigzag over it, being careful not to catch it in the stitching, Very sturdy and almost impossible to break.
Love your shows and website and all your posts on Facebook.