Conventional infrared lamps are cheap—but they usually fail within a month or two. Why?

The base breaks away from the glass bulb because the high temperature causes the cheap adhesive to degrade.

Both glass and filament are so fragile that minimal impact shatters them.

Tips

To help reduce pecking with your birds, use a red colored bulb.

Benefits

6-month non-stop life.

"Never-loose" base—they don't use cement adhesive. Instead, the base screws into the bulb. A weld of solder holds the base onto the threads. If a never-loose base ever becomes loose, we will replace at no cost!

Other bulbs—attached with cement adhesive. Heat causes the cement to lose its adhesive property. The base then breaks away from the bulb.

Precautions

Please see CAUTION photo above. Never lay a heat lamp (of any make or manufacture) on straw or any other flammable surface—for any length of time.

Why do we show you this? Because we included this photo on p. 60 of our 2011 “Equipment That Works!” catalog and p. 16 on our Poultry flyer—and we regret doing so. To prevent any incident (there has been none to our knowledge) we felt we should show you this as a cautionary note.

Do not use bulbs rated higher that 250w.

Use quality bulbs as some low quality bulbs have broken off leaving the metal filament in the ceramic fixture.

We have concluded that, because the PAR bulbs feel so sturdy and unbreakable in the hand (which they are), some users (including myself) are inclined to screw them in with more hand strength than they use for normal heat lamp bulbs (which are fragile and feel that way).

Using too much strength to tighten the bulbs doesn’t damage the bulbs—but it does deform the brass colored metal inside the ceramic fixtures of our heat lamps.

Mild deformation due to over tightening makes it difficult to screw bulbs in and out of the fixture. Major deformation due to over tightening can flatten the metal so much that the bulb can actually fall out.

Listed below are recommended optional components or related items. Your particular situation may require alternative recommendations. Please call and talk to our consultants if there are any questions at 800-282-6631.

About Conductivity

Conductivity measures the amount of electrical current a material can carry. The opposite measure is known as resistance.

Many of Premier’s nets feature a green and white superconductor that has both stainless steel and tinned copper filaments for optimal conductivity. These “premium” nets are 10 times more conductive (38 ohms per 1000') than our “basic” nets. This enables the electric pulse to travel much farther and be less affected by weed contact.

We do not recommended the basic nets listed below for fences exceeding 500 ft in length:

Customers who are unhappy with netting are often those who’ve chosen one of these or their farmstore equivalents. Why do we offer them? Because they are similar in design and conductivity (380 ohms) to nets from our competitors—and comparisons make decisions easier.

Types of Line Posts

Line posts are built into the net. Three options are available.*

Single Spike (SS)The best choice, unless your soils are always soft or very hard.

Double Spike (DS)Posts allow you to push in the spikes with your foot. When soil is hard or rocky, double spikes are more difficult to install and remove.

Drivable Posts (DP)Allows use of a mallet or dead blow hammer for installing posts in dry, hard or rocky soil. Features a “spike stop” for extra support and internal fiberglass ribs for added strength.

Tip: To insert a line post into frozen or hard soil, use a power tool to drill pilot holes.

* Not all fences have all line post options.

About Positive/Negative (Pos/Neg) Nets

Is your area dry?

Conventional electrified fence systems rely on soil moisture to be effective. However, not all areas have the required moisture.

To overcome this, Pos/Neg nets* are wired to allow the use of every other horizontal strand as an extension of the ground terminal. Because half the strands are connected to the ground terminal or ground rod, reliance on soil moisture is reduced. A PowerLink must be purchased separately to make the secondary ground connection.

How it works…

In order to receive a shock, the animal must touch both a positive (hot) and negative (grounded) strand at the same time. This will deliver more pain to the animal than an all hot net (Pos/Pos) because moisture in the soil is not required to complete the circuit.

Pos/Neg fences can be converted to Pos/Pos in moist conditions. Remember, all fences must be kept free of vegetation.

* Not all fences have Pos/Neg options.

Line Post Spacing

“Plus” nets—6'8" spacings between line posts

Standard nets—10' or 12' spacings between line posts

Essential Energizer Advice

Buy a larger energizer than necessary. When the fence pleases, most folks will buy more fence—and need additional output.