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I need to have the corners reworked...she is obviously not very good at corners. When the guy comes out to rework the corners I will ask him what he thinks about a light splatter coat. I have no idea what that is.

Coming along pretty good. Interested to see how you decorate. All my black and gold gear is in boxes as we build a bedroom and bathroom in the basement and the wife is coming up with too many "other" decorating options.

The guy is in right now fixing the problems. He said they will be easy to fix, mostly just need to use a 14in trowel to spread out another coat or two ontop of what is there to fill in the bubble holes (cleaned them out nicely first) and to take care of the peaked corners.

If anyone lives in the Harrisburg, PA area and wants to hire a person to finish the drywall (tape, mud, sand, etc), send me a PM. The guy who is fixing the problem with my finishing job is AMAZING. In just 4 hours he was able to fix most of the issues. He is going to spend another 4 hours making sure everything is perfect and then spend a day sanding.

To say I am impressed with him is one of the least effective adjectives I can use!

OK, Clyde is done fixing the drywall problems. I have damp sponge wiped down the walls and ceiling and swept the floor. To REALLY clean up the drywall dust, I used a steam cleaner on the floor. You would be amazed at how much drywall dust is left behind after sweeping. The floor is now clean, I went over it twice with the steam cleaner.

Tomorrow night/afternoon I am going to primer the drywall and Clyde is going to come over either Monday night or Tuesday night to inspect his work and touch up anything which does not meet his high standards.

We decided we would redo the front soffits of the room...they just looked off. Clyde is done again, I have wiped down everything and primered what needed it. Maybe tomorrow I will start painting some black to see what it looks like.

I wanted to post a pic update, so I did the inside corners of the room. The drywall guy is also a painter, and he said to do the inside corners first, then do the roller afterwards...that way the roller covers over the brush strokes.

Since I do not have the permanent projector yet (I have a temporary one I will use until I can save up the money for the permanent one), I am going to be keeping the front wall white until I can size out the screen I am going to paint onto the wall.

Finished painting the first coat of black. I purchased the Steeler's Black paint from Home Depot and had it color matched at Sherwin Williams, then bought a bunch of it from there. I stopped at the first coating to find the flaws in the drywall work (so they can be repaired) and to wait until the rest of the work was done prior to doing the second coating. I should have waited until after the work was done to do the first coating, it literally sucks up the light! I had to use 600 watts of light in order to make the place lit up enough to read a tape measure!!

Anyway, here is the very roughed out screen wall:

We built the riser...then realized we needed to have it a bit higher. We initially used 2x8s with 3/4 plywood on top, but that was simply not high enough. We are removing the plywood and adding a second layer on the top of 2X10s with plywood ontop of that. it is going to look nice. Some pictures:

I am changing my plans to put the electronics in the stage...it ends up just being too hard to access it. I am moving it to outside the theater, next to the bathroom, on shelves on the wall. You will not be able to access it from inside the theater, but no big deal as we use a HTPC and the only time a physical disc is used is to rip it to ISO or Folder and store it on the Hard Drives. I now have to reroute some things, but the outside wall of the theater is not yet done so it is easy to do.

It seems painting a screen "IS" in consideration. It also seems that at first you were considering a 115" wide x 48' high screen. Why change?

I see two rows of seats as well. Plans to move the electronics elsewhere too (...thank goodness...)

The Soffit does work to limit your screen height, and obviously that was a factor in your having to raise your Riser height.

A word of advice....although with having painted the underside of the soffit Black it will help mitigate reflections, don't expect the Black used to be completely "anti-reflective" when the top edge of the Screen will be close. Flat Blacks usually tend to reflect a Blue-ish cast under such conditions, especially under bright content, and the entire underside of that Soffit will light up.

I'd like to invite you to wander over to the DIY Screen Forum. Don't underplay your hand too much on the "painted screen" idea. And Brother, don't wait much longer to get that screen painted! Really, it should of been painted "Before" you applied the wall paint, and the latter cut in around a masked edge.

Spraying a screen is what is called for, as you will note that on Projector Central, that was the stated preference, but they tried to show that rolling was possible. Well while that is true, when creating a "perfect" surface, rolling just does not fit that job description. Spraying is very easy and affordable: http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

....and at this point, masking off the needed area is going to be easy, and very little re-rolling of wall areas will be required. We/I can provide you with timely advice and helpful suggestions on all of the aforementioned screen considerations, as well as any other aspect of your remaining build (...We are actually one of the best "One stop Shop" Forum on AVS ....)

I personally like your Theater. I call 'em "Pocket Home Theaters", and done correctly, they can be veritable Virtual Reality Palaces.

If I wanted to spray the final coat of black onto my walls (I am waiting to do that until all the construction work is done), what size tip would I use for the gleempaint machine. It is Steelers Black from Glidden (VERY VERY thick, lots of pigment). I suppose I could just thin it a lot and use several coats. I want to paint without ANY brush or roller marks...they will show up instantly when using the projector.

More updates...lots of pics this time. The Riser in the back is DONE!!

I am surprised at just how SOLID the riser sounds. There is a good 11 inches between the top of the riser and the floor...I expected it to at least sound slightly hollow...it does not. It sounds completely solid.

Another update. A friend wanted to view the theater room, having heard about it. He also happens to be a licenses electrician, so we quickly busted out my electrical work. I now have lights and electric outlets in the room!!!

Here are some pics. In this one, you can see the uncovered lights on the walls and the uncovered LED lights on the riser. There are also three standard outlets on the bottom level of the riser, for use by powered recliners.

Here is what the lights on the wall look like with the cover on one of them:

I am using a dimmer switch for the LED lights, to make them a little less bright. I am using a standard rocker switch for the wall lights. I will eventually replace it with a remote controlled wall switch.

Another update. A friend wanted to view the theater room, having heard about it. He also happens to be a licenses electrician, so we quickly busted out my electrical work. I now have lights and electric outlets in the room!!!

Here are some pics. In this one, you can see the uncovered lights on the walls and the uncovered LED lights on the riser. There are also three standard outlets on the bottom level of the riser, for use by powered recliners.

Here is what the lights on the wall look like with the cover on one of them:

I am using a dimmer switch for the LED lights, to make them a little less bright. I am using a standard rocker switch for the wall lights. I will eventually replace it with a remote controlled wall switch.

I tested all the speaker wiring. I took my old receiver (I keep it as an emergency backup) and set it on AM to get white noise. I connected one speaker wire to the Front Right output of the receiver and connected a speaker to the other end of that run. If I heard white noise, the run was good, if I did not hear white noise, it was bad. I then disconnected that wire and connected the next wire to the Front Right on the AVR and moved the speaker. I repeated this for ever wire.

Thankfully, they all worked. I should have done this prior to closing up the walls!

I tested the IR Repeater wiring today, and figured out how much IR filtering I need. I wired it all up and watched the light on both the receiver and the block. I am amazing at just how much IR interference CFLs give off! Luckily, most of it is blocked when I put on the light covers (which I have off during construction). I only needed to use one Disc 2 filter.

I am using the Buffalo Technologies IR3-350 receiver and IR-100 block.

Using just one Disc 2 filter removes all the IR interference from the lights and still allows me to use the remove from 24 feet away and also see the "I received your signal" indicator on the IR Receiver.

ating they did not keep the same order for the V, SIG, and GND connectors on the two devices.