La Favola d’Orfeo was one of the earliest works recognised as an opera and was composed by Claudio Monteverdi in 1607. But what’s this got to do with Phuket.Com’s food review? Well, one of the restaurants we choose to review this month is, in fact L’Orféo in Nai Harn.

Nai Harn is not as tourist-orientated as Patong or Karon or even Kata and is an area, along with Rawai, that has found itself popular with the many expatriates who have chosen to make Phuket their home. As a result, L’Orféo is often frequented by many international local residents.

Décor

Wow. If you like to be surrounded by softly lit satin and silk and to bask in cushioned and air-conditioned comfort then L’Orféo is certainly for you. There are also traditional tables and chairs but the option of dining like a reclining Pasha in a corner slouch couch is a strongly seductive one.

Large and colourful dried flowers in vases abound, along with antique chests, plenty of reading material and a thousand different bric-a-brac pieces as well as eclectic art on the walls. There is also an al fresco covered dining area in L’Orféo’s large front courtyard, no less tasteful.

Atmosphere

The swirling music here lends an Arabesque touch and along with all the gorgeous textiles, curtains and cushions you would be forgiven for thinking you were in Cairo but the smart international clientele remind you that no, this is indeed Thailand.

Inside, a bamboo bar is a convivial place for an aperitif while letting the restaurant slowly but surely work its magic on you. Outside, stand fans keep things fresh and either inside or out, diners soon realise that this is a unique experience and one to be savoured.

Wine

L’Orféo has a decent wine list with seven reds and eight whites drawing from several countries and continents, as can be expected as this is a French-International restaurant.

Prices are certainly reasonable, the most expensive label costing 2,000 baht. The house red, an Italian ‘San Carlo’ served in old pop-top cider bottles, is more than decent and a robust companion to the cuisine here. The bar is well stocked with spirits and aperitifs.

Food

There’s an attractive range of dishes here with some eclectic food preparation and some old favourites, too. The duck foie gras is succulent while the same could be said of the tuna tartar with shaved parmesan, cherry tomatoes and plum and ginger. The flavours are beautifully separated and presentation is tip top.

A red snapper filet on a bed of fresh vegetables is healthiness itself and the vegetables resemble Thailand’s famous ‘som tam’ but without the killer chilis. The tagliatele carbonara is perfectly al dente and bursting with flavour, as ever perfectly presented. It soon becomes clear that the cuisine suits the surroundings and that this is no victory of style over substance as is so often the case in tourist venues.

A beautifully rich tiramisu rounds things off nicely and, as mentioned, the house wine stands up well to such delicacies.

Service

Discreet and vigilant. Dishes arrive without fanfare and wine glasses are never empty.

The girls at L’Orféo are smart and professional and will make sure your evening runs smoothly.

Where Is It?

On Soi Sai Yuan, the road linking the island’s main north-south highway with Nai Harn. If you are coming from the north, simply turn right at the 7-Eleven junction after the Lemon Green gas station and drive down three kilometres past Don’s Mall.

L’Orféo is a little further down on the right. If you are coming from Patong/Karon/Kata take the left-hand turn at Nai Harn Village at the three-way junction and you will see L’Orféo within seconds on the left-hand side of the road.