Next on Tony Dewald and Tim Brown’s to-do list after taking over brewing duties at Dead Frog earlier this year – after creating the exceptional Fearless IPA – was to revamp the brewery’s winter ale, the fabulously named Christmas Beeracle (which was originally brewed by current Parallel 49 brewmaster Graham With, fact fans).

I was a big fan of the judiciously spiced Beeracle, so I was interested, if a little worried, to see how the makeover had gone.

First big change: It’s now the Winter Beeracle. No beer is just for Christmas, after all.

Rich aromas of vanilla, orange peel, biscuit and milk chocolate tickle the nostrils, with a definite booziness adding some rum-like warmth. The overall effect is a like a rum-soaked trifle that’s heavy on the custard.

Those big vanilla and orange notes are backed up by gentle figgy and plummy flavours in the mouth, and some biscuity, subtle chocolate malt which leave a residual sweetness. Those malt flavours develop oaky, slightly roasted, almost scorched nuances. There are also juicy citrus highlights due to additions of orange peel and Cascade hops.

The beer’s density is immediately apparent. It’s thick, the mouthfeel is rich and alcoholic warmth builds to considerable density at the back of the mouth as a decent bitterness firms up the sides of the tongue. Boozy spice dominates the aftertaste, where a decent bitterness and stout dryness linger.

The new Beeracle shows some complexity, but overall it’s a little unbalanced and tastes too boozy, while the flavours can get cloying toward the end of a bottle. With its strong vanilla emphasis, it struck me as a more powerful version of Tree’s Vertical Winter Ale. Have to say, I’m not a huge fan of vanilla extract and its flavour does rather overpower this beer.

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