Kashmiri produce has been cherished in my husband’s home for decades. My mother-in-law spent her childhood summers playing in the meadows of Pahalgam and the family always came back with bags full of apples and cherries. Even today, our walnuts, almonds and saffron come directly from there and I’ve heard numerous stories about the experience of shopping in Srinagar. When I arrived last July (with an almost empty suitcase in anticipation of newly purchased goodies), there was a local strike and the markets were shut. Disappointed, I called Mohammad Sadiq Wani who owns Suffering Moses, one of the finest papier-mâché showrooms in the city, and asked if he would open the store for me. Not only did he show me his wonderful store, he also took me home to see his personal antique collection. We picked cherries from his garden, of which I received a bagful, along with a fascinating lesson on the history of craft in Kashmir.

Mir Sayed Ali Hamdani, a mystic from Persia whom the locals reverentially call Shah-e-Hamadan, moved here in the 14th century to flee Timur’s tyrannical rule. With him, he brought hundreds of craftsmen to teach Kashmiris skills that could be practised indoors during the long winters and eventually provide jobs. The markets flourished, and over time, Srinagar became a Mecca of art and crafts, from Pashmina shawl-weaving to papier-mâché to copper engraving and more. During my visit, I saw many of these techniques being practised and experienced Kashmir’s legendary hospitality everywhere I went.

Model and actor Pragya Yadav wearing a beaded kurta set from Nzuri at a Wangnoo Sheraton houseboat. Photo: Tom Parker

A month after my trip, savage floods destroyed this beautiful city. Telephone lines were down, and when I finally got through to my friends in the Valley, their stories were chilling. The dawn of prosperity that had come with the renewed tourist influx was short-lived—Kashmiris were, once again, back to fighting catastrophes, albeit of a natural kind. It broke my heart to think of the wonderful people I’d met suffering such immense losses, both personal and financial. But the tradesmen I met on my trip have kept in touch, and if there’s one thing I’ve learnt about the people from this region, it’s that they’re resilient. They know how to survive. Barely a year after the floods, life is now getting back to normal (the landlines may take a bit longer, though), shops are open for business and these exceptional hosts are ready to welcome tourists back into their gorgeous home. Listed below are my favourite stores that are now back in business, categorised by area. Be warned: you’ll be tempted to buy more than can fit in your suitcase.

Polo View

G M Shah: Famous for designing Nargis Fakhri’s outfits in the movie Rockstar, this store is frequented by locals looking for stylish Kashmiri fashion. It specialises in hand embroidery on wool, cotton, silk and even prints and net. Exclusive designs come with slightly higher price tags, but if you’re on the hunt for one-of-a-kind salwar kameezes, kaftans and jackets, you don’t need to look anywhere else. (+91-9419002581; from Rs250)

Kashmir Fancy Art: This store offers traditional Kashmiri apparel for the entire family: salwar kurtas and pherans for women, Pathani suits for men—and even tilla-work kurtis in children’s sizes. A huge bonus: Parvez, the owner, is happy to take measurements, tailor the garments and ship them to your home. (+91-9906746688; from Rs50)

Saklain’s Coterie: Rashid Ahmad Kawos’s store sells gorgeous-smelling essential oils made from local produce such as lavender and walnut, and handmade soaps such as Almond Honey and Royal Saffron. What makes the products even more interesting is that the ingredients are farmed by the Kawos family. You’ll also find saffron, dry fruit and a powdered version of Kashmiri kahwa for those who want to take this aromatic local tea back home. (From Rs50)

M Sadiq & Sons: Among the numerous papier-mâché and handicraft stores on Polo View street, this one stands out for its quality and design. The family started off with a regular shop, selling souvenirs such as trays, boxes and pen stands, but due to its popularity, soon opened a second one across the street—an export house that offers large figurines, vases, sheeshas and even papier-mâché furniture. (+91-9419002345; from Rs25)

Simson: Kashmir was a major exporter of leather goods, and even today, stores selling quality leather products are all over the city. At Simson, you’ll find leather jackets and bags in bright colours. Kashmiri embroidery is used on leather slings, clutches, purses and wallets. The suede passport covers make great gifts. (+91-9419007320; from Rs50)

Amin-Bin-Khalik: Kashmir has long been famous for its dry fruit, and this store is known to sell goods of a particularly high quality. From smoked almonds, walnuts, fine saffron and morel mushrooms to dried cranberries, dates and prunes, the array of produce here is endless. Another popular purchase (and proprietor Noor-ul-Amin’s personal recommendation) is the Masala Tikki, a blend of spices to be added to meat dishes for unbeatable flavour. (+91-9906598692; from Rs100)

Sunbeam: This one-stop shop offers a variety of souvenirs, including carved wooden objects, woven carpets and chain-stitch rugs. It’s a fantastic stop if you’re looking to do up your home. (+91-9419548275; from Rs35)

The Bund

Kashmir Loom: ?Jenny Housego, a textile historian (and former member of the textile department at The Victoria and Albert Museum in London), started this company along with locals Hamid, Zahid and Asaf Ali. They are reviving the Kashmir shawl and sozni traditions by creating collections in cashmere, silk and cotton, in contemporary designs and colour palettes. (From Rs2,500. By appointment only)

Suffering Moses: Owner Mohammad Sadiq Wani’s ancestors were among the original Persian artisans who came here with Shah-e-Hamadan. The papier-mâché masterpieces available here are unparalleled works of art, but you’ll also find wooden carvings and furniture, needlepoint tapestry cushion covers and more. Behind the main showroom is his other shop, Sadiq’s Handicrafts, which has one-of-a-kind treasures for collectors, such as Persian carpets and rare pashmina shawls. (+91-9796744744; Rs150–Rs75,000)

Asia Crafts: If you’re looking for a rug, carpet or wall hanging, this is the place. Owner Afzal Abdulla employs the finest craftspeople for carpet-weaving and needlepoint tapestry. The store also sells bright jackets and exquisitely detailed furniture carved out of walnut wood. I loved the painted parchment lampshades that can be matched with ornate papier-mâché lamp bases. (+91-9419011755; Rs200–Rs15 lakh)

If you’re looking for a rug, carpet or wall hanging, head to Asia Crafts. Photo: Tom Parker

M Shah: You’ll find lambskin coats in neutral shades and trendy cuts. There’s also a varied collection of handbags and wallets in different sizes, all made from leather or suede. (+91-9469042711; from Rs30)

Residency Road

Gulshan Bookstore: I fell in love with the wonderful collection of political, botanical, coffee-table and travel books about Kashmir that I found here, and could have browsed for hours. The store is also a publishing house, which mainly prints titles by Kashmiri authors to promote local talent. (+91-9906852222; from Rs175)

Ahdoos Bakery: This delightful place sells the famous Kashmiri breads—baqarkhani and sheermal—and a variety of puffs. Don’t miss the many walnut treats, such as biscuits, tarts and cakes. (+91-9419424692; from Rs7)

Old City

Aziz Ahmad Kozgar: Near the Shah-e-Hamadan mosque in the old city, this ancient store is run by unanis whose ancestors were Central Asian medicinal practitioners. The manually distilled rose water is stored in decanters and is incredibly refreshing on a warm afternoon. (From Rs33)

Zaina Kadal Street: Copper utensils form an integral part of every Kashmiri bride’s trousseau, and every kitchen will have a set. From samovars (coal kettles) to tashts (wash basins), there’s a wide variety of utensils that can be bought here, and the shopkeepers on this street will reiterate the health benefits of eating off copper. (From Rs200)

Others

Farmers’ Market: Every second Sunday, from May to October (except during Ramzan), Jyotsna Singh, owner of Almond Villa, a guest house on Boulevard Road, organises a market to sell produce from the orchards surrounding the property. She also has a display for the in-house brand, Anosh, which hires Kashmiri women to make jams and preserves, and a few local shops set up stalls as well. Himalayan Cheese sells its flavoured gouda varieties and has a live stall set up for serving Kalari, a melted cheese snack, while a pop-up café serves momos and grilled trout. (From Rs20)

Kashmir Essence: The Srinagar-based beauty brand based in Jawahar Nagar uses local ingredients to make natural products. From fruit face packs to lavender cleanser to olive body butter, you’ll get a great variety of naturally made products that are suited to most skin types. And what’s even better is that they smell delicious. (From Rs80)

Global Sports: Not many know that Kashmir produces sturdy and solid cricket bats made out of indigenous willow. You’ll find these and more sporting goods at Global Sports, one of the city’s best such stores, located in Awantipur. However, if you’re travelling further to Pahalgam, keep in mind that the factory producing these bats is on the main highway, so you can also pick them up from there. (+91-9419959786; from Rs150)

Kashmir Government Arts Emporium: This is a great place to buy Kashmiri products, as it ensures the artisans get their fair share of the profits. It has a number of branches, on Boulevard Road and in Lal Chowk and Rajbagh. You’ll find apparel, handicrafts and woven carpets, as well as walnut-wood furniture, which can be shipped all over the world. (From Rs60)

Woodfort: Instead of carving, Shahala Ali Sheikh likes to preserve the natural texture of the walnut wood she uses to design furniture. Employing environment-friendly methods, she experiments with all styles of furniture (including European and Moroccan) and has designed a Kashmiri suite at The Ashok Hotel in New Delhi. Visit her Rajbagh residence, where you can even order customised pieces, which can be shipped. If you visit her home, also take a peek at her mother, Dilshad Sheikh’s clothing line, ‘Chosen Few’, which is popular among Kashmir’s elite. (+91-9419009669; by appointment only; Rs3,000–Rs5 lakh)

Andraab: Producing pashmina pieces woven and embroidered by hand, its clientele includes celebrities such as Richard Gere and Judi Dench. The store is on the way to the airport, near Humhama Chowk, so it can be the perfect way to end your holiday. (From Rs6,000)

Craft tours

Go on a guided walk through the old city with Srinagar Walks(+91-8803425501). The guide, Gulzar Hussain, is an ethnographer and writer who showcases the city through its craftspeople. You can see artisans at work, in their homes, and enjoy a cup of kahwa with their families. And you can buy products at the source, assured of superb quality and lower prices than at showrooms. For example, you can witness the pashmina-weaving process with Jan Mohammed and his wife, Rubina(+91-9906959611; Rs5,000–Rs4 lakh), who produce the famed shawl. Raw wool is cleaned with a wooden comb and spun on a charkha into fine threads. These are then dyed myriad colours, which are displayed in the workshop. This yarn is woven on looms into pashmina scarves; the more complicated weaves can take a year to finish.

Another fascinating product to watch being created is the delicate jamawar shawl. The Beigh family(+91-9906646394; Rs5,000–4 lakh) has won five national awards for its finely crafted products. Every small flower embroidered on the piece has close to 12,000 tiny stitches in it, and the base fabric is covered in this embroidery. It can take seven years to complete one piece, and once a shawl is sold to a customer, it’s washed in River Jhelum, as the minerals in the water are said to give it a beautiful shine.

Maqbool Jan is known for his papier-mâché products, such as this samovar. Photo: Tom Parker

Papier-mâché is a form of art that was brought to Kashmir in the 15th century. Because it was initially restricted to pen stands, it used to be called Kari Qalamdani. Later, it was expanded to include a whole host of objects, and now you’ll even find papier-mâché furniture in the market. Maqbool Jan learnt this trade at the age of three, and today, is one of the finest craftspeople in the entire region. The process involves two steps. First, the sakht saaz (an artisan) creates the base structure by combining good-quality paper pulp and water and setting it in a mould. Then, the naqash, or painter (in this case, Jan), paints intricate patterns on the product. He uses a brush made of cat hair to trace his designs, each of which has a name: for example, ‘barg-e-chinar’ means chinar leaf motifs, and ‘hazara’, a thousand flowers. (+91-9906412614; Rs130–Rs2 lakh)

Next: The coolest stays in Jammu & Kashmir:

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The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa, Gulmarg

Luxury in the lap of the valley, this award-winning boutique hotel comes with 85 rooms done in a classically Kashmiri avatar (think walnut panelling, teakwood floors) and decorated with local crafts such as silk carpets and crewel embroidery. Importantly, they all come with central heating, LCD TVs and Internet connectivity, a boon in a region where mobile-phone reception is notoriously fickle. The three restaurants offer Kashmiri, North Indian and Mediterranean cooking, and the skilled concierge can arrange for anything you want—from skiing and hiking trips to golf lessons. (Website. Doubles from Rs21,280)

Shakti Ladakh

These high-end village homestays offer a seductive combination of absolute seclusion, spectacular scenery and five-star comfort. You’ll be surrounded by flower-filled meadows and sparkling streams. Each group of guests gets a village home entirely to themselves, so you and your loved one can star-gaze from your rooftop gazebo, share a bottle of wine around the wood-burner or enjoy a five-course dinner in your cosy cottage kitchen, with a butler on call. (Website. 7N package from US$5,250 or Rs3,30,300 per person on twin-sharing)

Ahsan Mount Resort, Sonamarg

In a region where luxury accommodation is rare, this glamping resort sets itself apart with its wide range of comforts: four-layer insulated tents, a sheesha lounge, dining gazebos and the many mod cons. A gushing River Sindh and the majestic, pine-covered Himalayas form your views. If you’re craving an active holiday, the resort can organise trout fishing, treks to the nearby waterfall and trips to the Thajiwas Glacier. Come back to an evening bonfire, followed by a blissful sleep under the stars. (Website. Doubles from Rs8,000)

Chamba Camp, Thiksey, Ladakh

Set at the base of the Thiksey monastery, the camp is perfect if you like your Ladakh with luxury. The 14 colonial-chic tents have been imported from Africa and are kitted out with four-poster beds, en-suite bathrooms, writing desks and air-conditioning. But it is services such as 24x7 butler-on-call that make it a bona-fide glamping option. Wi-Fi access is unlimited at no extra cost. Adventures on offer include trekking and rafting on the Indus. In addition, you can catch a game of Ladakhi polo, go bird-watching and sightseeing. The kitchen also provides food suitable for children. (Website. Doubles from Rs58,999 per night for a 3N stay, including all meals. Season: June to September)

Vivanta by Taj – Dal View, Srinagar

A luxurious perch on Kralsangri hill that presents the Dal Lake in all its splendour, this one is for the hopelessly romantic. Hotel-style comforts abound in the 82 rooms and suites, all done in Kashmiri style: copper accents, local timber carvings and warm, earthy colours. Feast on the views of colourful tulips in spring, the snow-capped peaks of the surrounding Zabarwan range during winter and the golden chinars in autumn. And for a memorable meal, ask for the hotel’s specially prepared wazwan to be served at sunset on the terrace overlooking the lake. (Website. Doubles from Rs18,000)

WelcomHeritage Gurkha Houseboats, Srinagar

A houseboat stay is the best way to discover the city’s Venice of the East side. However, while the Dal has grown quite commercial, the adjoining Nagin Lake is still fairly clean and peaceful. A stay on these exquisitely carved wooden houseboats is a must, especially to kick-start your romantic Kashmir holiday. Spend your evenings with a hot cup of tea on the balcony and watch locals selling their Kashmiri handicrafts right in the middle of the lake. The owners leave no stone unturned in making your experience a memorable one—from organising day trips around the city to serving delicious home-cooked meals on board. (Website. Doubles from Rs8,000)

Photo: Michael Turek

Butt’s Clermont Houseboats Srinagar

Offering quiet seclusion, the five Butt’s Clermont houseboats are perfect for honeymooners. Moored in a sheltered corner of Dal Lake, the houseboats are built with cedar wood and furnished with carved wooden pieces and Kashmiri objets d’art. For the views, you have the placid waters and surrounding snow-covered peaks—stunning enough to make you spend a lazy afternoon just on the verandah. (Website)

The Grand Dragon Ladakh

What if you want the rugged beauty of Ladakh but none of the roughing out? This eco-friendly hotel in the heart of Leh offers the perfect balance. The décor is modest and traditionally Ladakhi, but the rooms come with modern fittings, climate control, LED satellite TV and in-room electronic safe. Of course, you’ll spend most of your time staring out either at the snow-capped Stok Kangri mountains, or in one sweeping vista, the Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa and Khardong-La, depending on your room. Meals too come with a view—at Zasgyath, the multi-cuisine coffee shop, and Stok View Terrace and Garden (in picture). (Website. Doubles from Rs21,450)

The Lalit Grand Palace, Srinagar

In its former avatar as a lavish palace, The Lalit Grand Palace hosted numerous people of taste, Lord Mountbatten being one. It’s your turn now to stay like a royal, with the Dal Lake and the mighty Himalayas around you. The 113 rooms and suites are done in true Kashmiri element—antique furniture, ethnic carpets, handicrafts—but also come with modern-day comforts. The experience includes alfresco dining at The Chinar Garden, lavish treatments at Rejuve – The Spa and the all-weather pool. (Website. Rooms from Rs15,500)

Nimmu House, Ladakh

: If your idea of a Ladakh trip is to just escape, this heritage boutique hotel, dating back to the 1920s, is just for you. The 30 rooms—with five Ladakhi tents, a three-room space and two Buddhist temples—don’t have a TV or offer 24x7 room service, and Wi-Fi is available only in the dining room. Ladakhi, Indian and French meals are made using organic ingredients sourced from the 4,000sqm on-site orchard and nearby fields. And it’s Ladakh, so you’ve got to get out: the hotel can arrange for guided village tours, hiking and rafting on the Indus or Zanskar—as well as indoor games and culinary workshops. (Website. Rooms from Rs9,000. Season: June to September)

Stok Palace, Ladakh

When in Ladakh, what better place to stay than where the king lives! You can watch the royal family go about its routine and the in-house monk practise his rituals. The best part: you can even chat with the king on all things Ladakh! The fact that all areas of this nearly-200-year-old palace are open to guests makes this an experience by itself. Ladakhi royalty permeates every corner—be it the rugs, the painted woodwork or the colourful interiors. Do visit the palace museum and check out the family treasures, including the queen mother’s ancient turquoise-and-gold crown and a collection of thangkhas (Tibetan silk paintings). (Website. Rooms from Rs13,500)