Where'd the time go?? Since my original thread had no activity for 14 months and I now have a deadline, it's time to start a new build thread. We are hosting Thanksgiving for my family this year (~25 people), and the theater needs to be ready by then. I am shooting for 11-1 to allow time for "testing", but will accept 11-15. Time to get crackin'!

My original design thread is still in my signature for those who care to look back at ancient history. The room is in our basement, and the rough framed dimensions are 21' 4 L x 12' 11 W x 9' H. Here are a few pics of the space as it stands today.

Entry

Screen Wall

Back

Yeah, those are the same pics as the original thread...

I took advantage of the theater layout service from Dennis quite a few months ago. Here's the design that I will finally be working toward. Of course I'm assuming no major changes in HT design philosophy in the last year and a half since I got these...

Entry door wall.

Opposite wall (looking through entry door).

Screen wall

Floor

I am very happy with the design and instructions that came with it. I know it's been said many times on this forum, but if you are struggling with the design, Dennis is a great resource.

I have 2-20 amp dedicated circuits run to the space, and have an electician friend coming over this weekend to bounce a few things off of, then the fun begins.

Since the room is already studded, I plan on clips and channel on the ceiling and walls to decouple plus DD+GG (Ted, you will be getting an email in the next few days).

Even though I haven't been working on the theater, I have kept my eyes open for good deals on equipment. Here's the list of what I have so far.

APC J10 Power Conditioner

Sony BDP-N460 Blu-ray Player

Emotiva ERM-6.2 LCR Speakers

Emotiva ERD-1 Side and Rear Surrounds

Logitech Harmony 900 Remote

Lutron Grafik Eye 3106

I will try to take as many pics as I can to document the build and share them here. As I will be doing the overwhelming majority of this work myself, I want to thank everyone in advance for answering all the questions that I will have along the way. Wish me luck, and let me know your thoughts on the space!

I've always had the Panasonic 4000 in the back of my mind, but now I'm considering the 7000. I'm not really into the 3D side of things, but the it looks like it would do the trick for me. I won't be ordering one until September anyway, so I have some time.

Couple of quick wiring questions. I plan on running as much of the cabling as possible through the soffits. This includes electrical and A/V. Seems to me like I could get almost all of it in there and only have 1 or 2 penetrations for wiring. Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to do that?

Planning on 3 screen wash cans, 6 cans in the soffit (3 on each side), rope light around soffit (in tray with crown molding) and 4 wall sconces (2 on each side). Does that seem like light overkill for a room this size that will be mostly inhabited in the dark? Do I need the sconces, or do you think the 6 cans plus 3 screen and rope lights be enough light for the room? Black will be the predominant color in the room with gold accents (Iowa Hawkeyes/Pittsburgh Steelers colors)

One more question (for now). I will be using an APC J10 power conditioner/battery backup for the equipment. Would the sub get power from the J10 too, or from its own outlet? Would still be on the same 20 amp circuit. Plan to powerbridge for the projector, and can do the same for sub if it should be on the J10 too.

Planning on 3 screen wash cans, 6 cans in the soffit (3 on each side), rope light around soffit (in tray with crown molding) and 4 wall sconces (2 on each side). Does that seem like light overkill for a room this size that will be mostly inhabited in the dark? Do I need the sconces, or do you think the 6 cans plus 3 screen and rope lights be enough light for the room?

My room is a similar size, and I've got more can lights and even with them on full it's not bright enough to read in the room comfortably. Depending on your choice of sconces they can throw a lot of light into the room, but if you've got the can lights around the perimeter like I do, the seating area can be quite dim.

Quote:

One more question (for now). I will be using an APC J10 power conditioner/battery backup for the equipment. Would the sub get power from the J10 too, or from its own outlet? Would still be on the same 20 amp circuit. Plan to powerbridge for the projector, and can do the same for sub if it should be on the J10 too.

I ran the romex from the PowerBridge to both my projector and to the front wall to power the speakers/sub as well. But if you've got a UPS, I wouldn't put the sub on that. May be best to just use a point solution for surge protection on the sub.

Thanks Jeff. I kind of figured that for the lighting, but it's good to hear your experience. I wouldn't plug the powerbridge for the sub into the UPS section of the J10, just for surge protection.

That's a good thought, and I'll add that to my "what I would do different" hindsight list...

I ran a single PowerBridge from my rack, which terminated at the Projector location, but the romex continues on to the front of the room to pick up the sub/speakers/screen. So if I chose to add a UPS to the PJ, the sub/speakers would also be on that run.

Better choice would have been two PowerBridge inlets at the rack, one run to the PJ, the other to the front speakers/sub. That way the PJ link could be fed by the UPS, while the speaker/sub inlet could be on surge-only.

Made some progress this w/e. Sorry for the cell phone quality pics. Will take HQ pics when there is more exciting progress...

Removed corner angle studs and relocated HVAC return to back of room. Started insulating rear wall as there will be no cable runs on this wall outside of the shell.

Relocated HVAC supplies to front of room and started insulation in areas where there will be no cabling.

Fully insulated side wall since no cabling outside of the shell on that side.

Next up is a couple cable runs that need to be done before more insulation in certain spots. I have decided to mount the Grafik Eye in the front column so that also cuts down on pre-DW cabling.

Couple of questions. What gauge of speaker wire is recommended? I have some leftover 14 gauge inwall rated, but will get 12 if that would be better. LCR are Emotiva 6.2 (4ohm) don't know the sub yet. Would like to run it in conduit in case it needs to be replaced down the road. The local Lowes only had 3/4" flexible carlon tubing, seemed like that would be a tight fit for LCR & sub cables on the front wall. What size conduit do you use, and where is a good place to order from?

Also, you can see a cleanout in the lower left corner of the first pic. This is for the bar sink on the other side of the wall. Nothing else drains here (the vertical is just a vent). Does it make sense to create access for this cleanout? The drain is only 2 feet on the other side of the wall. Would be no problem to snake through the drain if it was ever needed. Thoughts?

Not a lot of progress last night, but enough to feel like I did something.

Ran power to the rack area.
Ran romex to the sub location for powerbridge.
Great Stuffed a few more spots that needed it.
Tried to make a complete list of things that need to be done before DW. If I can keep chipping away during the week, I should be able to make good progress on the weekends.

There won't be any progress tonight though. Heading to Iowa City for the first round NIT basketball game between my Hawkeyes and the Dayton Fliers!

Some decent progress this weekend inbetween events and family things, just not all that photo worthy.

- Drilled more holes in studs and ran almost all the romex that needs to be done before DW. Only have one more to run for the Grafik Eye wall station. Going to go with the NTGRX-1S. No need to get fancy here, and I already have the 14/2 to run to it from the 3106 location.
- Ran the conduit for LCR & Sub cables. Nobody local had the carlon flex conduit any larger than 3/4", so I went with sealtite at 1-1/4". I have to think that the carlon is much easier to work with, but the sealtite will be fine.
- Hung more insulation on the walls. Just a few spots left to do, then I can move on to the ceiling insulation.
- Had a great conversation with Ted at the Soundproofing Company last week. Order will be placed this week.

One thing I forgot to talk to Ted about is an upstairs return that runs in one of the joist spaces. Here is a pic:

Has anyone done anything special for these, or have you just left them alone since they will be outside the DD+GG envelope?

One thing I forgot to talk to Ted about is an upstairs return that runs in one of the joist spaces. Here is a pic:

Has anyone done anything special for these, or have you just left them alone since they will be outside the DD+GG envelope?

If it is completely outside the DD+ GG and not touching the drywall then you should be fine. If you really want to you could add some pipe wrap to it to add more mass (sold by the soundproofing company) but I did not do that and have not experienced any problems.

I'm not an expert plumber but I can say that there are two waste stacks in my basement that are behind walls with no access. They were like that when we bought the house and I don't know what the code says about it but when I asked the home inspector what he thought the random "bump out" on one of the walls was he said that it was probably a waste stack and didn't seem to have any concerns with it being there.

I've always had the Panasonic 4000 in the back of my mind, but now I'm considering the 7000. I'm not really into the 3D side of things, but the it looks like it would do the trick for me. I won't be ordering one until September anyway, so I have some time.

If you are not into 3D then the RS45 would be one of the projectors at the top of my list. Much brighter (almost twice) in best image mode compared to the Panny 7000. With that size screen, paired with an RS45, I would consider a microperf StudioTek 130. If we can help you, let us know.

I don't have any advice for you as I am really a newbe to this myself, but as we have just watched our first movie in our room - I can say that it is a rewarding experience!

Good luck - have fun - and enjoy the journey, as it is more than half of the experience.

Nick

Thanks Nick. The journey is definitely fun now that there are signs of progress. Just need to keep moving forward.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaustin

If it is completely outside the DD+ GG and not touching the drywall then you should be fine. If you really want to you could add some pipe wrap to it to add more mass (sold by the soundproofing company) but I did not do that and have not experienced any problems.

I'm not an expert plumber but I can say that there are two waste stacks in my basement that are behind walls with no access. They were like that when we bought the house and I don't know what the code says about it but when I asked the home inspector what he thought the random "bump out" on one of the walls was he said that it was probably a waste stack and didn't seem to have any concerns with it being there.

Good to hear you didn't have issues with your return. I have some extra foil tape, so I may just make sure it is sealed up really good and put some extra insulation there.

I decided not to worry about the sink cleanout. I have the location marked if it needs attention in the future. I really don't think it will be a problem since the sink is 2 feet away (knocking on wood and rubbing a rabbit's foot).

Quote:

Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5

If you are not into 3D then the RS45 would be one of the projectors at the top of my list. Much brighter (almost twice) in best image mode compared to the Panny 7000. With that size screen, paired with an RS45, I would consider a microperf StudioTek 130. If we can help you, let us know.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll be doing a lot of research on the projectors and will let you know if I run into any questions. I am planning on a Seymour AV Center Stage XD screen.

OK, apparently my Google-fu powers are on the fritz again. I can't seem to find anywhere to purchase hat channel or Nailor bar diffusers. Not getting a responce from Lowes or HD, and my local HVAC guy didn't know what a Nailor bar diffuser was. Any suggestions?

I found hat channel in stock at HD. It was next to the drywall material. They only carried 10' sections instead of 12' sections but I plan to make it work. Also were considerably cheaper than the special order 12' pieces at local Menards (less than 1/2 the price). Walked out with 30 pieces for less than $60.

On the screen, I too am planning to use the Seymour XD material but I think I am going to get the frame and material from Jamestown home theater. They had a pretty competitive price for the kit. Probably half the cost of the larger name companies.

OK, apparently my Google-fu powers are on the fritz again. I can't seem to find anywhere to purchase hat channel or Nailor bar diffusers. Not getting a responce from Lowes or HD, and my local HVAC guy didn't know what a Nailor bar diffuser was. Any suggestions?

I found hat channel in stock at HD. It was next to the drywall material. They only carried 10' sections instead of 12' sections but I plan to make it work. Also were considerably cheaper than the special order 12' pieces at local Menards (less than 1/2 the price). Walked out with 30 pieces for less than $60.

On the screen, I too am planning to use the Seymour XD material but I think I am going to get the frame and material from Jamestown home theater. They had a pretty competitive price for the kit. Probably half the cost of the larger name companies.

My kind of shopper! Guess I'll do some walk-ins instead of Internet searches. Luckily Lowes, HD and Menards are all close together. Thanks!

I personally had no luck finding hat channel at my local Lowes or home depot. I ended up calling a local building supply warehouse and they knew exactly what I was talking about. They called it "metal drywall furring channel". I think it was about $7 for a 12 foot piece.

Also make sure that it is 25 gauge and has a hemmed edge for the clips.

If I read the forum rules correctly, I am obligated to post this next pic.

Ordered Tuesday, and delivered Thursday. If anyone doesn't know by now, Ted and John at the Soundproofing Company are fantastic!

I'm a week or so away from using the GG, but got to play with the putty pads last night. That allowed me to finish insulating the walls. Tonight I start the ceiling insulation. Can't wait for this part to be done...

Thanks Nick. The journey is definitely fun now that there are signs of progress. Just need to keep moving forward.

Good to hear you didn't have issues with your return. I have some extra foil tape, so I may just make sure it is sealed up really good and put some extra insulation there.

I decided not to worry about the sink cleanout. I have the location marked if it needs attention in the future. I really don't think it will be a problem since the sink is 2 feet away (knocking on wood and rubbing a rabbit's foot).

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll be doing a lot of research on the projectors and will let you know if I run into any questions. I am planning on a Seymour AV Center Stage XD screen.

Another point to consider, if it is going to be fall before you are ready, wait for the new models to come out.

Sitting here having a nice pale ale homebrew and thought I should post an update. I am done with insulation (until I need to do more insulation). Next step is the front soffit (which will need insulation, dangit!!), and then I can put the clips and channel up and be ready for drywall.

Screenwall

Backwall

Front Soffit Area

Ordered the door this week. Masonite Safe'n Sound solid core 1-3/4" thick, 80"x36". I will make the jambs myself, so just ordered the slab. Will be here by April 8. Also have a drywall lift coming this weekend from a friend who just finished his basement. Saved him from putting it on Craigslist and me from buying one off of Craigslist...

Things are looking good! Keep up the pace, and you'll make it for sure.

I have a question for you. I noticed in your plans the angled corners in the rear of the room. Then I see in your most recent pictures that only one of the corners "has to" be that way. Obviously symmetry dictates the other match - no argument there. And surely there is something important behind the one required cut corner. The question I have is did you get any notes or an impression from The Erskine Group about the impact of this shape on your acoustic design? I have an opportunity to extend the length of my room in the center, and I'm trying to weigh the costs and benefits.

Things are looking good! Keep up the pace, and you'll make it for sure.

I have a question for you. I noticed in your plans the angled corners in the rear of the room. Then I see in your most recent pictures that only one of the corners "has to" be that way. Obviously symmetry dictates the other match - no argument there. And surely there is something important behind the one required cut corner. The question I have is did you get any notes or an impression from The Erskine Group about the impact of this shape on your acoustic design? I have an opportunity to extend the length of my room in the center, and I'm trying to weigh the costs and benefits.

Hey Fred. The wet bar on the other side of the wall dictated the one corner, and the other corner was angled to match. There really wasn't an explanation given by DE, and to be honest I didn't think to ask what impact those corners would have. I'm sure there is some acoustical explanation as to how it will affect the room, just don't know what it would be. Maybe someone else can chime in here.