Don't turn those barrel adjusters - those are for synchronizing the two cables to one another. It looks like you twisted the throttle open and then, when you released the grip, it closed back forward but the cable didn't take back up the tension? Maybe? If so then your slides may be stuck open. If that didn't happen, how did the cables come out? If it is the case then you need to unstick them - start by removing the tops of the carbs, maybe, and spraying carb cleaner in there AND push them back down (though the carb bodies may be/probably are warped, which is a separate issue). Start by pushing them shut and hoping maybe there's dust in there. How long has it been since it ran? At all and on any regular basis?

as for the switches, it depends on the specific year. what's the number on the engine case (and left frame downtube, if they don't match)? go to classicbike.biz to look at an owners' manual and shop manual; they'll both have wiring diagrams and the owners' manual (if they have one) will have labels on the controls.

sorry: somehow missed your labels the first time. the toggles are for the blinker and for the high beams, I think, so your right-hand toggle is for the high beams (keeps it on, while the button just flashes it). one of the buttons on the left-hand side is a kill switch (the top one, I think) and the other is unused. unless I'm wrong and/or if it's been rewired.

My post is just a rehash of what therabbithole already said but I'll put it up any way. Perhaps between the two you can sort it out.

The answer to your question will be a little confusing with out a wiring diagram or the owners manual for your particular year due to the fact that Triumph switched the left and right switches somewhere along the way.

However, on my '71 the left switch goes like this. The center toggle goes from the middle position to the up position to turn on the bright light. There is no down position. Your single direction middle toggle appears to be on the right and that may be perfectly correct for your bike. On mine, the top push button is a flash for the high beam. In other words, if you want to just flash your brights at some one you can just push that button to accomplish that and then when you release it you have the low beam again. If you want to run with your high beams on then you push the center toggle up and they will stay on until you push it back to the center position.

The bottom button on that switch is my horn.

On the other side the center toggle goes up and down and is the turn signal switch.

One of the buttons, I think the bottom one, is a kill switch and the other does nothing.

To be sure you will need a wiring diagram for your bike but hopefully you will be able to make some sense out of it from this.

As far as your throttle sleeves go you just had them fall out. Usually this happens if something causes the throttle slides in the carbs to not return. If they just stuck momentarily and are back down now just pull the outer housing of the cable down (this will lift the slide a little) and slip the little ferrule back in place. However, you probably need to figure out what caused the sticking in the first place so that it does not happen again.

There are 2 pieces missing between the throttle cables and the twistgrip.The ferrules have fallen out when there was too much slack in the cables.

Over-tightening the carb flanges is usually what causes the slide bore to distort,and the slides stick.If the carbs aren't badly bent,it may improve if you loosen the flange nuts a little.There is normally about 0.045" gap between the flanges,when the correct 0.100"thick O-ring is used.

Bent flanges can be bent back to straight,if the problem persists.That will cure the distortion of the slide bore.There is a special fixture for straightening.

>Starting the bike
1. Turn the key on.
2. Make sure fuel lines are on.
3. Press the carb ticklers.
4. Kick start.
Is that right, or is there some other on/off switch or something I'm missing?

That's right, provided everything's working. Just make sure you hold the ticklers down until you actually see gas come out of the vents; simply pushing them down and releasing right away won't do much good. You'll also want to learn how to unstick the clutch (handle in and kick over until it stops turning over the engine), since some of them always stick.

Kickstart.... sounds easy... but IME if you aren't used to kickstarting you could at best case, burn energy needlessly, or worse, bruise a shin ir foot without doing it properly.
1. Pull in clutch and kick madly till it unsticks... if it hasnrt been done for a long time, may need to put it in gear untill it frees.
2. release clutch and move the piston to top dead centre... ummm not sure how to explain how to do this... take it past one compression stroke, so you are on the exhaust stroke, (there will be little resistance) then work the kick starter untill you take it only just past the point of most compression. This is top dead centre. Now you are ready to kickstart.

Sorry if I an teaching you to suck eggs... many people have never had kickstart bikes before and especially with old trumpies, it can be a bit of a dark art...

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