By NICK CZAP

September 2, 2014

In Piedmontese slang, Terún is a derogatory term for Southern Italians. “It means rednecks or hicks,” said Franco Campilongo, who hails from a small town in Calabria, the toe on Italy’s boot. But rather than taking the term (pronounced tay-ROON) as an affront, Mr. Campilongo wears it as a badge of honor — as does his year-old restaurant in Palo Alto.

For his first outing as a restaurateur, he chose a location in the Bay Area city’s tranquil downtown. The space offered an irresistible perk: a patio where guests could dine al fresco at lunch and on warm peninsular evenings.

He enlisted his wife, Caylin, to decorate the interior, which has an attractive contemporary theme, and Kristyan D’Angelo, a chef from Puglia, to run the kitchen. “Our goal was to create a place that would be our home away from home,” he said, “where our friends would come for simple food and good company, and to have fun.”

While nodding occasionally to the north, Terún’s menu is predominantly Southern Italian. The presentations are somewhat simpler and more spare than those you’re likely to find at the recent wave of Italian restaurants in the Bay Area — closer to what you encounter in Italy.

On a balmy May evening, dinner began with the delicate textures and flavors of cavolfiori gratinati, white and purple cauliflower florets baked with cream, Parmigiano-Reggiano and bread crumbs. A dish of roasted brussels sprouts followed, seasoned with a savory duo of Tuscan pancetta and Lombardian Gorgonzola. Eggplant polpette, a simulacrum of meatballs made of eggplant, eggs, cheese, bread crumbs and parsley, revived memories of a meal in a Puglian coastal town.

Mr. D’Angelo’s pizza margherita was similarly evocative. A softly tart and fruity naturally fermented Grillo from Campania resonated nicely with the region’s iconic delicacy. A crisp fillet of branzino, plated assertively on a mound of fregola, a toasted Sardinian pasta, only reaffirmed the power of this elemental cuisine.

One demographic seems especially appreciative: Mr. Campilongo’s compatriots. On any given night, Terún hums with their patter. “I didn’t even know there were so many Italians in the area,” he said. “They’re very picky about their food, and when I see so many coming into the restaurant, it’s the greatest achievement.”

Terún, 448 South California Avenue; 650-600-8310; terunpizza.com. A meal for two, without drinks or tip, is about $50.