If you’ve been around garment sewing, and especially historical sewing, for any length of time you’ve probably heard of mockups, aka toile (pronounced twal), muslin, run-through, or fitting test garment. The purpose is to do a test run of the pattern for sewing errors and also to fine-tune the fit to a body.
Mockups are VITAL to creating a ... [ Read More ]

This year, after eight years in the same house (our first one), I find myself having to pack up and move a *stuffed* 8 x 10 ft room full of sewing “stuff” and miscellanea. When I started out, ok… when I started thinking about doing that I froze. I procrastinated. I sighed.
How in the world was I to do this??
I don’t know if you’ve ever had to ... [ Read More ]

Pintucks! So gloriously tiny! So delicate! So straight & even… or not.
Pintucks have a charm about them. They call to us because they signify something regal or heavenly. They appear aloof and untouchable. The beauty they add to Victorian petticoats and Edwardian chemises elevate such tantalizing garments.
So as dressmakers from ... [ Read More ]

We've all been there. Standing in an aisle of gorgeous fabrics… swooning at the computer screen… gazing lovingly (and with drool at the mouth) at THE.PERFECT.FABRIC for that next dress.
Question is… how much to buy? Will 5 yards be enough? 10? Or do I have to sell a kidney to afford some unmentionable amount of fibers woven together ... [ Read More ]

Ever find a beautiful fabric and it's a wide 60" but your pattern only lists yardage amounts for using 45" fabric? Yeah, me too. It happens often.
And what about if it's reversed – a pattern requiring 60" fabric but you have THE material for the project in 40"? Well… that gets more complicated.
You'd much rather get what you need without ... [ Read More ]

Whenever I make something with cotton I always run it through my washing machine to pre-treat. I do this even if I plan to rarely clean the costume or take it to the dry cleaners. And most of the time I will throw the newly purchased fabric into the washer as soon as I get home from the store.
But what happens when I come home with 12 yards of ... [ Read More ]

Joyful Mentions

"Because of you and your blog I now have the confidence to sew historical articles. Thanks for sharing and teaching your skills." ~Tricia B.

"I absolutely love your video on how to bustle a skirt... it explains it beautifully." ~Maryruth Monahan

"That is excellent advice about wearing a corset! It’s what I have been advising to fellow costumers and people I teach to make costumes, but it is very well written.... Congratulations on an excellent website, and information, for costumers." ~Lynne Cook

"Thank you for all the panels you were on and for sharing your wonderful talent." ~Cindy Piselli

"Thank you for posting the bustling tutorial. That's always been a handful for me. You make it look so easy." ~Val LaBore

"[The Regency class] was great fun! But more than that, it was informative beyond my expections. Jennifer brought clothing she has sewn for a real 'hands on' learning experience. She gave us good info on proper & period correct fabric choices & sewing techniques. Thank you Jennifer." ~Candy Murrietta

"thanks for the great into on 1860 dresses....very informative.." ~Fran Wilcox