One of the most fascinating things about eggplant, which we are celebrating here on NOLA.com for two weeks, is its worldwide popularity. This recipe came to our files in 2003 from Subhash Kulkarni, who was raised in Bombay, India.

The roux is made in an unusual way, and sweet potatoes cover the stuffing. It does, indeed, seem more local than Indian. The dish also reflects the great New Orleans tradition of embellishing vegetables with a stuffing.

Vegetarian Stuffed Eggplant

Makes 6 side-dish servings

8-inch-long purple eggplant (about 20 ounces)

Water, to boil eggplant

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

8 tablespoons butter (or margarine), divided

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/2 cup chopped green onions

1/2 cup chopped green bell peppers

6 cloves minced garlic

1/2 cup sliced mushrooms

Salt, black pepper and Tabasco sauce, to taste

1/2 cup half & half

1 medium sweet potato (or substitute zucchini)

About 6 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese, divided

A few fresh cilantro leaves

Garlic bread, for serving

Slice eggplant in half lengthwise, and place in a saucepan; cover with water. Bring to a boil, and simmer until pulp is soft enough to scoop out, about 12 minutes; drain. Scoop out pulp to form two shells at least 1/4 inch thick; be careful not to pierce holes in shells. Drain shells and set aside. Mash pulp into small bits; set aside in a colander to drain completely.

Peel sweet potato and slice into thin rounds. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. In a single layer in the butter, brown potato rounds on both sides in batches, about 4 minutes total; sprinkle with salt and pepper and a little Tabasco. Repeat to cook remaining rounds.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Dry insides of eggplant shells well with paper towels; place in a 12-by-8-inch baking dish, and fill with stuffing. Sprinkle each half with about 1-1/2 tablespoons parmesan and a little Tabasco. Arrange sweet potato rounds in rows, two rounds thick, over stuffing. Sprinkle each half with about 1-1/2 tablespoons parmesan and cilantro leaves. Seal pan with aluminum foil.