So, I just recently completed my first router table project. It was both frustrating and fun. I am more or less pleased with what I ended-up with, but some refinements are needed.

I am somewhat “new” to table routing, and routing in general. It isn’t that I’ve not done it before. I’ve actually had a smaller table for a long time. I just don’t use a router all that often—i.e., it’s one of those things that I’ve erroneously looked at as an “outlying” solution which I tend to avoid. I built a table because I wanted to have it as a more accessible and usable option. Anyway, here’s an image or two of my initial efforts with it:

So, it all seems to work pretty well, but like I said, I need some refinements and corrections. The fence is just something of my own clueless design, and it doesn’t seem to work very well. It’s about 4 inches high and 1.5 inches thick. It’s held in place by a couple little Incra right angle thingies (in back). It’s not as stable as I’d imagined. I mean: it’s fine until it’s not… Any amount of even slight “kick” from the bit seems to push the fence, and it disconcertingly is quite surprisingly easy to tilt it back a bit—even just normal pressure from pushing the stock through seems to flex the right angle holds enough to tilt it slightly. So it’s obviously got to go in favor of something else…

Tell me: what did I do “wrong” here, and how do I fix it? Please note that awful miter gauge is just a “placeholder”—I just wanted to check-out fit. I’m going to implement something much better there (and I wouldn’t mind suggestions on that, too).

I don’t do much with my router: rabbets, box joints, etc. Simple stuff.

Well, yes, of course… I know I need to finish it with something. Probably, like, a coat of maybe beeswax and mineral oil or some such. It’s baltic birch sanded to 600 grit smoothness, though, so already nicely slick.

How about a pic of the back side of the fence?I am in the process of designing one, I have the plan for this one, but am trying to simplify it, I like yours, I do have a manufactured top and fence.http://www.crestonwood.com/plans.php

How about a pic of the back side of the fence?I am in the process of designing one, I have the plan for this one, but am trying to simplify it, I like yours, I do have a manufactured top and fence.http://www.crestonwood.com/plans.php

- conifur

Sorry, don’t have a pic of the back, but it’s held onto the tracks by a couple of these:

I thought that would work fine, but it just isn’t as stable as I’d like. I’ve seen examples of people using these, and assumed they’d be fine. They more or less are, but I just don’t like the way the fence “feels.” It just seems too easy for it to be moved. I don’t even think it is particularly safe.

I like the design of the rig you built. That’s nice. I tend to go pretty “middle of the road” when it comes to my shop furniture. I.e., I’ll spend some time and build it solidly and functionally, but I don’t put huge amounts of time or money into it. I just do “screws & glue” construction out of plywood, mostly.

I’m happy to invest another couple hundred bucks, I suppose, in a really solid fence, but then again I just don’t do that much with it. It doesn’t need to be fancy—just solid.

To prevent the flex of the fence from vertical, you’re going to have to have something besides the L-brackets that attach it to the t-tracks. You really need an L-shaped fence with some gussets if you want it to be taller than it is wide. If the fence is moving, it’s because it’s not being clamped well. If it were me, I’d get rid of the t-track and clamp it on the edges of the table. Something like below, or just use plane old f-clamps.

Okay, yeah, that’s the confirmation I am looking for. This is more like the design I originally had in mind for myself. Then I decided to go “all Incra” with the hardware, and figured (naively) that `oh, hey, probably those L brackets will be all I need.’ Nope.

So I will mod the design a bit and start over. I also think I want the stop track facing front, rather than top…

Nice build, BTW :-)

To prevent the flex of the fence from vertical, you re going to have to have something besides the L-brackets that attach it to the t-tracks. You really need an L-shaped fence with some gussets if you want it to be taller than it is wide. If the fence is moving, it s because it s not being clamped well. If it were me, I d get rid of the t-track and clamp it on the edges of the table. Something like below, or just use plane old f-clamps.

Okay, yeah, that s the confirmation I am looking for. This is more like the design I originally had in mind for myself. Then I decided to go “all Incra” with the hardware, and figured (naively) that `oh, hey, probably those L brackets will be all I need. Nope.

So I will mod the design a bit and start over. I also think I want the stop track facing front, rather than top…

Nice build, BTW :-)

- mdoleman

Just for the record, it’s not my build, it’s just a pic from google images. I did do mine the same way though and it works great. It’s also dead simple and doesn’t require any special hardware.

I think you’ll find the track on the front much more useful. You can use it for featherboards there as well as stops. I built 3 fences before I got it the way I wanted. I’d say just a few minor mods to yours will do the job so you’re in pretty good shape!