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Without knowing your problem, I would guess that the heating element has burned out. This is a common issue with many dryers, regardless of brand.

The hearing element in a clothes dryer is like any other heating element, such as in a space heater, heat gun, or hair dryer. It is basically a continuous coil that is held in place by insulators, usually ceramic.

As the element ages, the coil becomes brittle and can often break. When a breakage occurs, the circuit is no longer complete and will not produce heat.

Replacing one is fairly simple.

The first thing that you should do is unplug your dryer.

Once unplugged, remove the exhaust duct.

Use a screwdriver to remove the electric access panel in at the rear of the dryer.

Locate and remove the heating element.

Inspect the element for a break in the coil. The problem is not always obvious so it may be good to do a continuity test on it.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer
too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all
the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove
the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each
other or anything else.

Heating Element Assembly
A defective heating element assembly can make
a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce
heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat.
Remove the heating element assembly to inspect it. The coils should not
be touching each other or anything else.

Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work
properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean
all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling
thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is
supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature.
If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The
thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced. Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and
rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is
worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too
hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin
properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check
to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin
properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check
to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and
rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is
worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too
hot. This is not common.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling
thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is
supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature.
If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The
thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work
properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean
all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Heating Element Assembly
A defective heating element assembly can make
a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce
heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat.
Remove the heating element assembly to inspect it. The coils should not
be touching each other or anything else.

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer
too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all
the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove
the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each
other or anything else.

Restricted Air Flow- Unplug the dryer, and disconnect the duct from the back of the dryer to where it goes outside. Take the hose outside, and clean it out. Inspect the rear cavity of the dryer and the louvered vent where it exits the house. Clean both of these too. Pull out the lint screen. Remove any debris below it. If you found a lot of debris in the duct or elsewhere, this was probably the problem.....Reassemble....
BUT, if not,
(The harder of the two)----Broken Heating Elements- Elements are nichrome wire coils, same as the stuff in your toaster, but on a grander scale. They can wear out over a period of time. There are two ways to check them. The first way is to gain access to the terminals in the back, and test each coil for continuity. If it tests open, the afflicted coil needs to be replaced. The second way is to gain access to the coils and visually inspect them. Any damaged coil should be replaced. Coils are readily available from any appliance parts supply house, and are pretty inexpensive.
Hope that this helped. Best Regards, --W/D-- please feel free to rate this solution. thanx!

Check for a clog in the piping, Make sure the squirrel fan you replaced not backwards, also visually check an see if the heating element is glowing completly red, if not it's probley getting only 120 volts, not getting 240 volts, if that be the case you'll need a new switch. There are about three switches that could cause that problem, the high temp switch, low temp switch or the timer switch.

The first thing we must determine is the type of dryer we are servicing. There are only two types; Gas or electric.
If your dryer is electric, meaning it uses electricity instead of flame to produce heat, step one is to verify that the breaker to the dryer's electrical circuit is fully on. Since electric dryers require 240 volts to run, their circuit is run through a dual breaker switch. Sometimes only one half of the breaker switch will be off or fail which will supply enough power to make your dryer tumble but not enough for it to produce heat. Pop the breaker to your dryer off and on again and then see if the dryer will now produce heat. If it does, then have the breaker replaced. If it doesn't, you can verify that the dryer outlet is fully powered by testing it with a volt meter, You can learn how to use a volt meter here. If the outlet is fully powered then the problem definitely rests within the dryer.
Let's next deal with the failure common to both types.
You will need a continuity tester for this process.
After you have removed the power from your dryer and shut off the gas, you will also need to access the internal workings of your dryer. Directions for achieving access, specific to your brand, can be found here.
Most dryers have a thermal fuse located in the exhaust path. Depending on your dryer, the fuse will be found toward the front or the rear of your unit. Generally, if there is a removable back on your dryer then that is where you will find the fuse.
The two most commons thermal fuses you might find are shown in Figure 1. They are each roughly 1" in size. You will notice that the contact points are easily spotted for a continuity test.
In older units and some electrically heated units you will find a series of thermal fuses, looking like small tin cans, at various points along the heater assembly. These will also need to be tested before you can rule out thermal fuses as your problem. If any of the thermal fuses fails the continuity test, then it needs to be replaced. You can find reputable parts dealers at the top of this page.

Electric Dryers
After proving your thermal fuse(s) is/are good in your electric dryer it is time to move on to the next most likely possibility, the heating element. A typical heating element is shown in Figure 2. The element, as are all dryer electric heating elements, is comprised of metal coils supported on a framework with two contact points where wires are connected to the rest of the dryer. A break in this coil will stop the dryer from being able to create heat. Test the two contacts for continuity. If they fail, then you need a new heating element. You can find a diagram showing where each brand tends to place its heating elements here.
If both the thermal fuse and the element show continuity it is time to call a professional to service your electric dryer.
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Gas Dryers
Gas dryers use a burner system to create heat. This system has a number of parts that are known to fail over time. Some you can test, some you must simply rely on symptomology to form your decision to replace or not to replace.
In Figure 3 you can see an entire burner assembly with the various parts labeled. Not all of these parts can be tested with a simple continuity tester. An ohm meter is now required to find your problem part. Directions on how to use an Ohm meter can be found here.
The parts prone to failure in your burner assembly are:

Igniter

Coils

Flame sensor

A burner operates in a fairly simple way. Once the motor is turning, centrifugal force closes the Motor Switch allowing the electricity to reach the Flame Sensor. The Flame Sensor allows the electricity to reach the Igniter, allowing it to heat up to a temperature high enough to ignite natural gas. Once the Igniter is hot enough the Flame Sensor breaks the Igniter circuit which allows the electricity to run through the Coils that open the gas valve. Gas then flows out past the Igniter and catches fire and the heat is drawn into the airflow within the dryer.

if coils is heating are you sure motor isn't running or just the drum not turning ? if drum not turning suspect belt ..if motor not running but element still heating suspect element is contacting outer case ..with coil touching case 110 volts is present even without motor turning if timer is turned to heat position element will not heat to capacity but will get hot enough to eventually blow element fuse

Welcome jessegonzalesCheck the outside vent leaving your house does not have a screen on it.Take the screen off. Even half blocked and the dryer will not dry well.

Possible solutions

1. Defective Heating Element

The
heat produced from heating elements is measured in watts and a normal
heating element will produce about 4500 watts of heat. If the heat
element is shorted to the case, this will cause the heating element to
operate on 110v and use only about 1/2 of the element wire. In effect,
the heat produced will be only about 1/4 of the amount that should be
produced and the end result is an increased drying time.
The normal method for checking a heating element is to check it
continuity. With the element unplugged you can check the continuity
from one wire post to the next. If the circuit is open, thent he
heating element is faulty.
However keep in mind that the element could be shorted to the case
as described above. In this situation it is possible to have
continuity, but the element still be the source of the problem.
Let me know. Please remember to leave a rating

2. Defective Heating ElementThe heat produced
from heating elements is measured in watts and a normal heating element
will produce about 4500 watts of heat. If the heat element is shorted
to the case, this will cause the heating element to operate on 110v and
use only about 1/2 of the element wire. In effect, the heat produced
will be only about 1/4 of the amount that should be produced and the
end result is an increased drying time.
The normal method for checking a heating element is to check it
continuity. With the element unplugged you can check the continuity
from one wire post to the next. If the circuit is open, thenthe
heating element is faulty.
However keep in mind that the element could be shorted to the case
as described above. In this situation it is possible to have
continuity, but the element still be the source of the problem.

3.Defective Thermostat The
thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in
the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the
temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change
the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the
opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A
failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There
are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These
thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the
Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry
cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the
problem.

4. Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If
the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down,
it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some
strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of
heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot.
However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to
diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor.
If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created,
then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem
is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:The dryer burner
doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once
it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.

One of these will solve the problem!Thank You Huuum.Please remember to leave a rating

check all of those "relays", htey are thermostats, monitoring you temps, they should all have continuity through them if not its bad. (temp jump it out) just to see the element glow. TEMPORARIly.. you CANNOT leave any jumped out you will damaged something. HOUSE FIRE. just wanted to instill the importance of not leaving jumped out