I'm going to try and keep this as short as possible without leaving out any critical details of our build. I want to note that I am not an expert in the field and my writing skills aren't the best. I made some mistakes along the way and I will try and make note so you don't make the same ones I did. I followed the C-Beam XL Build by Moag throughout the entire process. If you are going to be upgrading your machine, I suggest you take my tips and follow his build closely.

The disassembly process of the Original C-Beam is pretty straightforward. I took everything apart except the x, y, and z axis.
1. Remove all the electronics except for the stepper motors.
2. Remove the Z axis from the X axis by removing the end plate and top corner bracket. The lead screw can be manually turned to slide the z axis assembly off of the end. Do this carefully to avoid damaging the wheels.
3. The X axis can now be removed from the frame. Also remove all of the cast corner brackets from the X axis.
4. The build table can be slid off the Y axis the same way as the X/Z was done. Remove the end plate and manually turn the lead screw until it comes off. I set this aside and continued to work on the frame.
5. Remove the Y axis from the main frame and remove all of the cast corner brackets from there. I set the x and y axis aside and disassembled the rest of the frame. The X and Y axis will both become the Y axis on the XL build.
6. After the frame is apart, I took the gantry plate off the build table and separated everything.
7. At this part in the video I started working on the build. I recommend you finish taking apart the Z axis the way we did the X/Y and organizing all of your C Beam parts with your C Beam XL parts. You will see me do this step later on in the build.
8. Notes: Two of our 6mm Aluminum Spacers on the Standard C-Beam looked a little off. We ordered these to make everything match. You may not need the additional ones. I can't remember why there are two different types of eccentric spacers on our C-Beam Build. We replaced all of the ones that didn’t match to have a cleaner build. You may not need to do this either.

Now onto the build. Like I mentioned before I am not going to repeat everything moag said and did. But will note how I did things along the way.

For the drillbits, I didn’t have a 5mm and 100mm Drillbit, I used a 3/8 and 13/64. I also found that countersinking the mdf with a forstner bit made much nicer holes. If you don’t have one, I recommend running the 13/64 bit it reverse to prevent going right through the mdf.

I used an orbital sander to remove the nubs from the cast corner brackets as directed. This was straightforward and simple.

IMPORTANT: The step of measuring and cutting the beams to match really came back to bite me in the end. I measured and matched everything up everything thinking I was good. I forgot to match the two 500mm c beams up to the old x and y axis. I had to take apart everything at the end of my build to cut the two 500mm beams down to fit. So don’t be like us and triple check the measurements of all the pieces.

Cutting the beams: Using a hacksaw like I did in the video is quite a pain. We have found it’s much easier to use a miter saw if you have one. The key here is to use a carbide tipped blade that has never been used on wood. One time on wood makes it not able to cut the aluminum. We used a diablo blade from Home Depot.

T-nuts: I know this sounds silly, but we had the T Nuts in the wrong way in the beginning of the build. The flat side goes toward the head of the bolt.

Tapping the Beams: I recommend using canned or compressed air to blow out all the little pieces left from cutting the threads.

IMPORTANT: Lock Collars on the Lead Screws: Whenever you build each axis, it is crucial that the locking screw on the lock collar be flush with the collar itself whenever it is tightened all the way in. There is little to no clearance for this to be hanging out. We had to take apart the machine to fix this at the end. I just used a dremel tool with a grinding bit to flatten a spot on the lead screw. (I believe moag recommended this and I didn’t do it. I learned my lesson, lol).

Main Build Table: We sealed our main build table with regular satin polyurethane. The first few coats I mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits. Then 25/75 for the next few coats until I got to straight poly. I think I ended up applying 15-20 coats all said and done. I just used paper towels to do this.

Main Build Table Note 2: Whenever the build was near completion we noticed the table was not square with the frame. We loosened the bolts mounting the table to the gantry plates and gave it a twist and re-tightened. We found that we still had to tweak by manually turning the motors to get everything perfect before powering on the machine.

Video of the build: The actual build time took somewhere around 10-12 hours with all the polyurethane sealing etc. I put everything in fast forward to cut the video time down to 4 hours. If there is something you would like to see or have questions about, please let me know. There is no sound on the video.

Photos of the build: If there is a specific photo of something you would like to see or know about, please let me know.
Here's a few:

C-Beam Before

C-Beam Before Backside with Electronics

Taking things apart...

Parts piles from C-Beam

You can see the difference in the two 6mm spacers in this photo as to why I ordered replacements (likely wouldn't have made a difference, just a little ocd).

This photo shows the different eccentric spacers and I replaced them to make everything the same.

Parts Pile before and after C-Beam Parts were included:

Mid Build:

Completed C-Beam XL:

Upgraded power supply, added emergency stop, built a stand:
Electronics Close Up (Jumper used for Y Axis):

Update 12/27/2016
We added oak strips on the front and back of the spoil board. This really helps for mounting wood boards that are twisted.