If the hex is rolled it,'s due to over tightening. Learn how to torque in inch pounds, not foot pounds and stay away from stainless steel set screws, they will be the 1st. to crack in the hex wall, then each time you try to loosen your spreading the thread even tighter. Drill the faulty set screw out.

One thing that has hepled me from stripping out a screw is USE A GOOD ALLEN TOOL. Don't use the cheap crap use a good AMERICAN MADE TOOL. Good steel. I'm sure there are better ones out there but I buy Snap-On and they have worked well for me.

put a little grease on your set screw to start with and you will be able to tighten it more than a"dry" set screw especialy in aluminum frame.....then you wont ever have the need to put the gorilla twist on your set screw

If you have the proper size Torx bit that will fit in the hex head snugly, sometimes you can get it to hold enough to break it loose and spin out...you just got to stay pushed in tight and square and it should get it out for you to replace it

If the set screw is in aluminum simply apply a small amount of heat to the aluminum while trying any of the methods listed above. Aluminum expands more than steel and it may make the job a little easier. Good luck

<blockquote><I>"Don't use the cheap crap use a good AMERICAN MADE TOOL. Good steel. I'm sure there are better ones out there but I buy Snap-On and they have worked well for me."

"Auctioneer, IMHO nothing beats Snap-on.</i></blockquote>Snap-on tools do work well in most cases but it's a shame that many of them are not made in the USA anymore. I have file sets made in Portugal, pullers from Taiwan and chisels from the UK. I originally found out about it in the Snap-On entry here: <I>Still Made in the USA.com</I>

Go into the Snap-On web site on-line catalog and check for yourself. Every tool in their on-line catalog lists the country of origin for that tool. An example... sorry:<center>
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Folothru - Each size and pitch of threads has a specified make-up torque and that torque is based on the threads being dry (unplated and unlubricated). The specified torque goes down with lube and/or plating, in some instances as much as 50%. There are tables for this.