The U.S. Loves the Kurti

The ‘kurti’ is now among the most sought after garments in the U.S, says Visi R Tilak.

Michael Phelps’s mother was sporting one while watching her son compete in the London Olympics, and gymnastics gold medalist Mary Lou Retton also wore one when interviewed on television. Mothers in the U.S. are wearing kurti style tunics while waiting outside school for their kids, and trendy young women in nightclubs are dancing with their glittery kurtis swaying. Even women at the beach are wearing them.

Yes, the kurti is everywhere – it is becoming a versatile, sought after garment in the U.S., even among non-Indians.

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Chico’s, a trendy store at most malls in the U.S., carried a typical Indian kurti it called the “Luxe Linen Bethany Top” in its online store. Below this was a note that said, “We’re so sorry: this item sold out sooner than expected. For an equally chic substitute, please call our Personal Service Associates.”

Walking into any large store in the U.S., be it Nordstorm or Macy’s, Gap or Talbots, one cannot help but notice a popular variation of the kurti. Ann Taylor, which operates 280 stores across the country, as well as an e-commerce website, had a similar issue to Chico’s. Its “Everyday Tunic,” a very simple collared white kurti, was sold out, according to the company’s website.

Why are kurtis so popular? Is it the Bollywood influence, is it their elegance, or is it just that they are comfortable to wear and suit all body types?

“Indian tunics/kurtis are just great easy pieces to have in your wardrobe. Since the comeback of leggings, tunics have gotten even stronger,” say Vivek Patel and Radhika Rana, co-owners of Vira Boutique in Boston Massachusetts. The two were voted among the 25 most stylish Bostonians of 2012 by the Boston Globe.

“When we first opened, we had a small collection from Indian designer Masaba. She does bright pops of color and print mixed with Western elements. This collection sold out with the first two weeks. The richness of silks and unique prints were very eye catching for customers,” says Mr. Patel.

“While they are great casual or dressy, they are easy and very flattering on all body types, hence people are more likely to opt for them. They prove comfort yet still show a sense of style. They are great styled casual with leggings during the day. Or another option is dressing them up with dark skinny jeans and a pair of heels,” he adds, noting that this versatility is an important reason for the kurti’s popularity.

Designer Rachel Roy, who has dressed Michelle Obama and Hollywood actresses such as Kate Hudson, Jennifer Garner, Sharon Stone and Penelope Cruz said in an interview that she plans to incorporate Indian styles into her outfits.

While many Indians in the U.S. choose to eschew Indian outfits and “blend in,” Indian influences are manifesting themselves in the Western fashion scene. “A couple of years ago, Naomi Campbell wore a sari by designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee for Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai. It was beautiful! I have always been attracted to the sari because not only is it part of my heritage, but it is effortless, elegant and exotic,” Ms. Roy, whose father was Indian, was quoted as saying in an article in “SheKnows.”

“I am venturing to India in October and I plan to study the tradition behind the sari, in hopes to recreate and modernize it for a future collection,” she added.

The fabrics used are sometimes very traditional, yet when executed in a popular design style they are easier to sell to Western clients, adds Mr. Patel.

Vira Boutique plans to carry Indian designers such as Rohit Gandhi, and Rahul Khanna for Fall/Winter 2012. “We have chosen some tunic style tops and hand embroidered dresses.”

According to Mr. Patel, what makes fabrics and designers from India enticing is that they are unique and have great quality. He adds that as retail businesses go more global, it helps people be more unique in their fashion sense.

“Pairing a white tee and jeans with a beautiful embroidered waistcoat from India is just what global fashion is. The designers from India just see a very unique vision for their garments. The mix of Western silhouettes with Indian fabrics and embroidery is just what is needed. These garments are very different and that’s what people are looking for these days,” he says.

Visi R. Tilak is freelance writer with bylines in publications such as the Boston Globe, Indian Express, India Today and Tehelka. She can be reached via email visitilak@gmail.com, her website www.visitilak.com or on Twitter @vtilak.

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