an safc would be cheaper in the end though, correct? thats why i asked.

actually no. cost for cost, an safc and chipped ecu will run you about the same amount.
but safc's are much more unreliable to run cuz they're only a piggyback system which basically tricks the ECU's inputs and sensor, whereas a chipped ECU runs off of completely reburnt fuel and ignition maps which is much more reliable.

seriously, you guys wanna spend 3K on an entire turbo kit, then cheap out and skimp on bar-none, THE most important aspect of the entire build (the tune) is about the stupidest thing to do.
your putting the fate of your engine to risk just to save $300 now? just man-up, work an extra day or two to afford to do it the right way.

this was an awesome read. I had a Mazdaspeed 6 before but totalled it and have been hankering for another turbo. The only issue is I have a 2001 type sh. I've read that the ACCS throws warning lights if you turbo the car. is this true?

this was an awesome read. I had a Mazdaspeed 6 before but totalled it and have been hankering for another turbo. The only issue is I have a 2001 type sh. I've read that the ACCS throws warning lights if you turbo the car. is this true?

kinda. the only downside of SH's are if you wanna go for big power, usually the ATTS (active torque transfer system) turns its self off and becomes useless/dead weight after AROUND 250whp.

SO I HAVE A PRELUDE 2 BUT I ONLY WANT TO RUN 4PSI WHAT WOULD I BE MAKI WHP IN A 5 SPEED.WHAT INJECTORS WHAT SIZE FUEL RAIL BOV.........BASICLY I JUST LIKE THE BOV SOUND THE CAR HAS ABOUT 150K ON IT WHOUL IT LAST LONG ITS MY DAILY FOR ABOUT 37 MILES A DAY SO LET ME KNOW THANK.......AM NEW TO THE SITE THE TURBO STUFF

SO I HAVE A PRELUDE 2 BUT I ONLY WANT TO RUN 4PSI WHAT WOULD I BE MAKI WHP IN A 5 SPEED.WHAT INJECTORS WHAT SIZE FUEL RAIL BOV.........BASICLY I JUST LIKE THE BOV SOUND THE CAR HAS ABOUT 150K ON IT WHOUL IT LAST LONG ITS MY DAILY FOR ABOUT 37 MILES A DAY SO LET ME KNOW THANK.......AM NEW TO THE SITE THE TURBO STUFF

1. caps lock isnt necessary
2. just wanting the sound of a BOV is a stupid reason to boost
3. do your research
4. do more research

SO I HAVE A PRELUDE 2 BUT I ONLY WANT TO RUN 4PSI WHAT WOULD I BE MAKI WHP IN A 5 SPEED.WHAT INJECTORS WHAT SIZE FUEL RAIL BOV.........BASICLY I JUST LIKE THE BOV SOUND THE CAR HAS ABOUT 150K ON IT WHOUL IT LAST LONG ITS MY DAILY FOR ABOUT 37 MILES A DAY SO LET ME KNOW THANK.......AM NEW TO THE SITE THE TURBO STUFF

SO I HAVE A PRELUDE 2 BUT I ONLY WANT TO RUN 4PSI WHAT WOULD I BE MAKI WHP IN A 5 SPEED.WHAT INJECTORS WHAT SIZE FUEL RAIL BOV.........BASICLY I JUST LIKE THE BOV SOUND THE CAR HAS ABOUT 150K ON IT WHOUL IT LAST LONG ITS MY DAILY FOR ABOUT 37 MILES A DAY SO LET ME KNOW THANK.......AM NEW TO THE SITE THE TURBO STUFF

this was very helpful! lol i dont know to much and that helped. so thnx for the thread. i cant wait till the end of the summer to boost my car! my winter project!!!! one thing i want is very loud turbo spool, i dont mean to sound like an idiot but is that from an external wastegate??

You'll just need an OBD2 > OBD1 conversion harness and a chipped OBD1 ECU (preferably a P28 or P72). Or you could get a standalone unit like the AEM EMS or Motec or something along those lines.

__________________Prelude Enthusiast: [prel-yood, preyl-, prey-lood, pree-lood], [en-thoo-zee-ast, -ist] noun: Someone who is willing to do whatever it takes to push the envelope, performance wise or stylistically, all the while brushing their shoulders off in a truly pimp-esque manor.

Because he has an OBD2 chassis with an OBD2 motor. If he uses a chipped P28 or P72 (which are both OBD1) he would need a conversion harness to actually use them.

__________________Prelude Enthusiast: [prel-yood, preyl-, prey-lood, pree-lood], [en-thoo-zee-ast, -ist] noun: Someone who is willing to do whatever it takes to push the envelope, performance wise or stylistically, all the while brushing their shoulders off in a truly pimp-esque manor.

Unless he wants to use a standalone unit like the AEM or Motec pieces. No one has really figured out how to chip OBD2 ECU's and run programs like eCtune or Crome or Neptune on them.

__________________Prelude Enthusiast: [prel-yood, preyl-, prey-lood, pree-lood], [en-thoo-zee-ast, -ist] noun: Someone who is willing to do whatever it takes to push the envelope, performance wise or stylistically, all the while brushing their shoulders off in a truly pimp-esque manor.

When you say the harness are you talking about the harness that connects to the distributor? Because i was sold and obd1 h22a4 distributor that doesnt fit my car. Im planning on boosting within the next year or so, so im wondering if i should keep the distributor til then or if i will have no use for it.

__________________

Quote:

thats ****ty man gotta be careful when you sleep and drive man

Quote:

go on youtube and u can watch an almost stock crx beatin a lambo half 2 death

Fuel and its role in detonation, fuel is the one thing that will make or break a turbo build and tune. If you tune to E85, then you have to run E85. If you tune to 91, run 91 or better octane (pure gas if you can get it, e10 octane ratings are suspect...). Unless you have a way to adjust your tune its far better to run with a tune that works that to chase more but untuned power by turning up the boost and dumping in higher octane fuels. It is also better to be too rich than too lean. Excess fuel is an expensive way to cool your charge but that is what it will due (at the cost of the wideband over time) and thus help prevent detonation. Tunes that are too aggressive are flirting with detonation (or maybe screwing them behind your back). Octane in the US is an average of two different formulas to determine a given fuels resistance to ignition and thus detonation. It may seem to be backwards, but 87 Octane has more power potential per unit of measure than 93 octane. That 115 octane race gas your drooling over has very little energy per unit of measure and is really hard to ignite.

This takes us into a discussion about AFR's, octane and widebands. Stoich at idle on pure gas is 14.7:1. The lower the number compared to stoich the more fuel in the mixture and it is considered rich. The bigger the number compared to stoich the less fuel in the mixture and it is considered lean. Seems pretty simple and it is until you add a turbo. I know people who consider anything over 11.5:1 to be lean under boost.

Going lean is bad because lean leads to knock also known as detonation. You do not want a piston to sound like some one dropped bits and pieces into it. Detonation happens when there is too much air or the fuel. This acts on the fuel in a way similar to a bellows on a fire. The fuel will burn much hotter and with much less control creating pressure waves that blow the top of the piston apart, blow head sup etc... bad bad bad.

This is why a tune to a particular fuel is so important. But I bet some people are still wonder how premium fuels which have less power potential make more power. More fuel is how. Because better fuels resist detonation better you can burn more of it and run more aggressive tunes and maps.

The wide band is important because it gives you real time data on the composition of your exhaust gasses. It lets you know if you are too rich or if its time to worry. A single act of detonation could blow a piston, but it might not. it depends on the motor and component.If you pay attention to your wide band you can head off problems (get out of boost when heat soak begins to overpower your FMIC), or hopefully react fast enough if a problem pops up like an injector going lean.

I cant stress this one enough. Your map pressure sensor and AIT sensor can only tell you what is happening from the intake forward. A good wide band tells you whats going on from the exhaust bung forward. Personal story, built a VG30ET with a t3/t4 turbo, tuned using the sniffer on a dyno. Figured the tune was good enough car ran like a champ. Decided to wait on a wide band. Well, had an injector lean out on me and boom no more motor. All of my work and money was gone... A narrow band is worthless for anything other than pretty lights.

As was already discussed, intercoolers are used to cool the charge to create denser air. This is because for all of the benefits of turbos they have one major draw back and the bigger the turbo the bigger the draw back- heat soak. Turbos are powered by exhaust gasses. Exhaust gas is hot and that heat will transfer to the compressor wheel and begin to reheat the charge. This is why most intercoolers (also known as aftercoolers) are set up to cool the charge after the turbo heating.

But its not just the air getting hot the oil is cooking. A turbo that has been run hard and just shut down will carbonize the oil into a fine white powder. Eventually this powder will plug the oil lines and you'll get to hear your Turbo yell, "goodbye cruel world!" and off it self in a flash of flame and blue smoke.

There are three main ways to cool the oil/ and turbo. The first is don't put the thing away red hot. Drive it out of boost and let it cool. Something that is more effective and all but foolproof when combined with the first is to run a water and oil cooled turbo. A mixture of water and ethylene-glycol is a really effective heat sink. It cools your block and if you run the lines you much hotter turbo.

The final and most dangerous way is to use a turbo timer. Bad idea, bad like driving fast with L rated 850UTG rated tires. If something goes wrong like a wreck and you are incapacitated but your turbo timer isn't the turbo time will keep the fuel pump pumping fuel... perhaps on to very hit surfaces that are now exposed to air- flame on!

Oh, not only do turbos give more power and work, but with good breaks and a nice tight vacuum hose on the brake master cylinder diaphragm you can brake boost. By stepping on the brake and gas you can pre-spool your turbo to have a couple of pounds of boost as soon as you get the green light. A free two pounds of boost from a stop may equal between 20 and 30 or more extra horsepower and torque where the engine is at its worst in its design power band. From a roll, break boosting can add significant power. But make sure the vacuum line is secure. Blow the vacuum line off and you have no brakes.

The final piece of my writing deal with exhaust and intercooler pipe insulation. Wrapping your pipes is generally ugly and bulky but if the goal is go not show it is well worth it. Wrapping the cooler piping will help keep the charge cool from the cooler to the intake. Even better, running 3" exhaust on anything bigger than the smallest turbo will reduce back pressure and allow for more efficient operation. However, the farther the exhaust is from the turbo the cooler it is. Warm air and cool air do not mix well. There are two main solutions. Dumping (using a butterfly valve to artificially shorten the exhaust path) or cutting the exhaust short before the hot/cold collision. This is generally really loud and has some other risks like carbon monoxide poisoning, turning your car into a cop magnet etc.

The other and much better option is to wrap your exhaust piping in an insulated heat wrap. That way the exhaust isn't allowed to cool enough to impact performance before it leaves the end of the pipe.

So I got a lucky break and found myself an '89 Prelude 4ws and I absolutely want it to be the best that it can be. I was thinking about forced induction... but I really have no clue what I'm doing. I've never done any crazy modifications to a car before. I wanna know what my first steps should be. What's the best way I can get the most power out of this sweet sweet ride. I want to know what other people have done with their 89's and have a good list of do's and dont's before I start tearin it apart and adding ****. I love this car I don't wanna **** it all up right out of the gate. Please help!