Pordenack Point

Green Eyes
HVS 5a #
20m Start below the rightward slanting open groove/crackline left
of "Amigos" on the East Face of The Green Face. Climb the groove
line for 5m to pull onto a big ledge. Climb the deep groove above to the
top of the pinnacle.FA Mark Edwards (on-sight solo)

Granite Gorilla
E6 6b #
15m This takes the wall and big obvious roof right of Mr. Haggis.
Climb the centre of the wall below the roof, and pull out wildly to the
lip. Cut free (bold) and pull hard to reach a flake. Follow direct up the
wall passing horizontal cracks to the top. FA Mark Edwards

"Note: Mr. Haggis and Ella-phant are the same line... one being H.
Severe and the other E1 5b! Elle-phant is claimed in 1994 and Mr. Haggis
was first in 1985! We must have been climbing harder grades in those days..."
(Mark Edwards)

Carn Boels Upper

A very pleasing area
to climb in away from the crowds and with astonishing sea and cliff views.
The cliff is south west facing so gets the sun all day, it is also a cliff
where one can climb during the winter when the wind is coming from the north
or east. One can climb here any time as it is well above the sea.

The rock is perfect
granite, typical of Cornish climbing. Most of the climbing on the upper
tier is of the higher grade for those seeking easier climbing then the lower
tier is where they would go.

Approach from the
Lands End car park . Follow the track for 1.5 mls to the last headland looking
into Nangizal bay. Walk down the back of the headland and around its base
on the left side to below the cliff.

Routes are described
from right to left.

Micro Arête
Hard Severe 4b #
This is the first steep arête you see, as you approach the crag, on
the right behind the main crag.25ft. Start below the arête
and climb the left edge of the slab by its arête. Once on top either
descend the slot behind or continue 25ft to belays on the block above. F.A.
R Edwards 24th Jan 2006

Bold but True
E4/5 6a #40ft A bold and exposed climb.Start on the large boulder
right of the obvious large corner. Climb off the boulder onto the arête
and follow this to the roof. Continue up the crack to the top. F.A. R Edwards
27th Jan 2006.

Drifters E1
5b+ ** #40 ft A fine climb which is deceptively difficult. Start
below the obvious corner on the left. Climb the corner to the roof and then
right under the roof to the arête. Climb the crack to the top. First
recorded Ascent. R Edwards 1979 NB. This corner had previously been
climbed using pegs and bolts going left across wall and also going right
on pegs.

Heart of Stone
E5 6a *** #
40ft A very sustained and technical climb. Start directly below the small
overhang on the right of the main wall. Using the crack climb onto the short
slab on the left. Cross this below the roof to the far side and pull over
the roof onto the wall above. Traverse immediately rightwards to the arête
then direct to the top. F.A. R Edwards 1982

Grinder E2
5b** #
35ft Quite a sustained route. Start at the left hand side of the
wall. Climb the crack right of the large boulder. Continue up the crack
until a move right leads into the crack on the right. Follow this to the
top. First Recorded Ascent. R Edwards 1982. Previously climbed with
peg and bolts

The Drum
Hard Very Severe 5b. ** #Start as for the previous route. 35ft 5b. Climb the crack right
of the block and continue up the crack directly up the wall to the top.
F.A. R Edwards 1982 Possibly climbed before but not recorded?

Bus Stop Very
Difficult #30ft. Climb the left side of the boulder then the left
side of the wall to the roof. Move right to the top. irst Recorded Ascent.
R Edwards 1982 Possibly climbed before but not recorded?

Chimney route
Very Difficult #
100ft Start at the large boulder. 1.20ft. Climb
the left side of the boulder and enter the chimney. Belay possible. 2.80ft.
Walk into the right hand chimney and climb directly up the left wall through
the boulders above.

Password E1
5b* #Spectacular finish.Start below the overhanging wall on the left.40
ft Climb groove and crack to the steep wall above . Climb the
overhanging crack until a move right to follow a rightwards slanting crack
to the hanging chimney. Climb up this and the boulders above to the top.
F.A. R Edwards. 23.7.2006.

Palace-walk
E5 6c*** #
30ft Excellent crack climbing, sustained. Start below the groove
just right of the left edge of the wall. Climb the groove and crack to reach
the overhanging crack which goes directly up the wall, followed this to
the top. F.A. M Edwards. 10.8.2006.

Cathedral
of the Sea E7 6b *** #
30ft A spectacular climb taking the obvious overhanging arête
on the left of the wall. Climb the steep wall and the overhanging arête
to the top. F.A. M Edwards. 20-7-2006.

Weatherman
E3 6a ** #
30ft Steep and strenuous climbing. Start on the left side of the
crag. Climb the boulder to below the overhanging wall and crack. Climb the
crack to the large ledge, up the short wall to the top. F.A. R Edwards.
1982.

Carn Les Boel

Bosistow Zawn

Its a Blue Planet
E2 5b #
47 metres Superb climbing up the prominent pillar just right of Bosistow
Chimney, finish up the final crack of The Ramp (HVS 4c) on poor rock. FA
Paul Harrison, Graham Sutton 29.8.01

Carn Barra

Hookers Haven E8/9
6c ** #
A very bold lead with a very serious ground fall should the marginal tied
down sky hook rip during a fall. Takes the quartz seam to the right of Sewing
Machine Man, and then the central wall above. The crux requires cool conditions
for max. friction on the slopers. FA Mark Edwards Summer 2000

Peel Arête
50ft Hard Very Difficult
#
Start right of the start of Peel crack on the right edge of the wall. 1)
50ft. Climb the juggy wall to the ledge then climb up to the arête
and follow this to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 28/2/2006

Routes right side of Glass Arête area.

Wave Crest
Hard Severe 4b #Start in the gully to the right of Glass arête. 40ft)
4b.Climb either up the gully direct or up the left side onto the
ledge. Traverse right into the steep groove and up this to the top. F.A.
Rowland Edwards 24/11/005

City Slicker
Very Severe 5a #40ft) 5a.Start in the gully as above to the ledge. Move
right to the base of a slab and climb the faint cracks to the top. F.A.
Rowland Edwards 24/11/005

Left side of the main cliff, left of Raindancer.

Outer Edge
E1 5b #
Start at the left side of the wall just to the right of the easy way down
and below a wide crack. 55ft Climb the wide crack for a
few feet until a move right onto the face. Climb the steep juggy wall to
the roof. Pull over this to the ledge and a crack leading right, follow
this to a good ledge. Climb a series of short wall to the top. F.A. Rowland
Edwards 4/12/005

Light Foot
E1/2 5b # Start from the top of the largest boulder beneath the centre of
the wall. 55ft. Step off the boulder into the shallow groove
to a ledge. Climb the steep wall to the next fault and move up left to a
crack sloping leftwards. Follow this to the big ledge. Climb the short walls
leading to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 4/12/005.

Sea Biscuit
E2 5b #
Start from the top of the largest boulder below the centre of the wall.
Step off the boulder onto the steep wall, with a faint crack in it and two
shallow pockets on the right, which leads to the obvious ledge. Climb directly
over the roof onto the wall above with a rightwards sloping crack, which
is followed to the big ledge. Short walls lead to the top. F.A. Rowland
Edwards 4/12/2005

Lower Carn Barra (The Other Block).

This is a small buttress below the platform of the Grand
Plage area. Although quite short the routes do give good value. A low tide
is essential.

Approach. Once on the platform below Grand Plage walk to
the left side (facing out) and the buttress is immediately below you.

Jug Wall Very
Severe 4c #20ft) Climb the left side of the block first up the short
wall then the wall above to the middle ledge. Climb the cracks in the wall
above. F.A. Rowland Edwards 29/1/2006

Barnacle Arete
E1 5b #
20ft) Start below the arête in the centre of the wall. Climb
the steep wall just left of the faint cracks and then continue up the arête
above. 5b climbing only on the initial moves. FA. R Edwards. 29/1/2000

Slanting Crack
E1 5b/c #20ft) Start at the right side below the chimney. Climb
the chimney for a short way then move left to gain the cracks which are
followed to the top.F.A. Rowland Edwards 29/1/2006.

The Chimney
Very Difficult #20ft) Climb into the chimney and then using the crack on
the right climb to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards. 29/1/2006.

Dutchman's Zawn

Three addition to add to the climbs in this superb Zawn.

All these routes can be approached as from the bottom
of the Zawn, when the tide is at its lowest, or by abseil to the first belay
ledge.

Another Sixteen
Years On E3 4a, 5c 170 ft #Excellent climbing with a great zawn atmosphere. 1.20 ft
4a. From the base of the wall step off the boulders onto a juggy
wall , Belay on the wide ledge. 2. 150 ft 5c. ( 110 ft
of climbing). Climb the steep wall on the left and enter the thin crack
line on the right, follow this to the roof on its left. Climb over this,
using good but well spaced holds, onto the wall above. Continue direct then
slightly right and climb the short teep bulges to reach the top. Belays
are well back on the large black. First ascent. R Edwards. K Thomas 15th
August 2003

Deep Cut Hard
Very Severe 4a, 5a 170 ft #A far better climb than appearances suggest. A classic line. Some
care with the rock is needed although this will settle down once it has
had a number of ascents. 1. 20 ft 4a. From the base of
the wall step off the boulders onto a juggy wall , Belay on the wide ledge.
2. Move right and climb the groove to enter the deep crack
above. Follow this to just below the top when a move left can be made to
climb the short steep wall above. Belays well back. FA R Edwards K Thomas
15th August 2003.

Little Cut
Hard Severe 4a,4b 170 ft #1.20 ft 4a. From the base of the wall step off the boulders
onto a juggy wall , Belay on the wide ledge. 2.150
ft. Move right onto the far ledges. Climb up and right to enter
the steep crack and follow the corner and short wall to the top. Belay well
back. FA Rowland Edwards 29th August 2003.

Bones
E6 6b 5c #
45m Start below the overhanging wall left of "Eat 'em and
Smile". Climb the centre of the overhanging wall via a seam and passing
horizontal breaks. Pull boldly and direct up the final wall to rock precariously
onto the sloping ledge. Belay at back of ledge. Climb a second pitch 5c
20m up the cracks on the right. FA Mark Edwards (second pitch soloed) Summer
2004

Zawn Kelly

Approach. Park in
the car park at Porthgwarra (pay and display). Walk up the narrow road to
the gate. A little further on a track leads off right ( The Coastal path).
Follow this to Zawn Kellies.

Walk in descent. Traverse the edge of the cliff top left towards the deep
gully on the left. This can be descended with care. It is usually wet. At
the bottom go right along the boulder beach to the obvious arête of
Genesis.

In many areas of the zawn the rock is desperately loose, in others it is
superb. All of the climbs here keep to this excellent rock. Many of the
routes have been created by wave erosion so one must expect some changes
as time takes its toll.

The routes.
The first aret is taken by Genesis E4 6a. A superbly steep face and overhanging
crack climb. To the left of this is another arête with a small slab
at its base. This is No Hostages E3 5c. A really varied climb on excellent
rock. The next arête left, with a large roof at its base, is another
superb line called A Senior Moment E2/3 5b/c. Just to the left of this is
a large roof leading onto a steep black wall. This is taken by Magicos Negro
E3 5c.

Genesis E4 6a #
A sensational overhanging crack climb. The base of the climb is quite ‘flaky’
but once you are established on the route the rock is very good, particularly
in its upper section. Start at the base of the steep large blade of rock
with an obvious crack on its right face.1) 100 ft. Climb
the crack to a good ledge. Climb the steep wall to the roof with a superb
crack in it. Pull over this onto the steep wall above and follow the crack
to just below the top. Move right and then back left to exit onto the grassy
hillside. Belays are the large boulder embedded in the hillside. First ascent.
R Edwards I Blake. 3rd Novemebr 2005.

No Hostages E3 5c #
Another superb line with varied climbing. Start below the next arête
below a steep slab. 1) 60 ft. Climb the slab to the roof
and pull over this onto a small ledge on the left. Move left and enter a
groove which is climbed to a small ledge. Climb the steep wall and thin
crack to the roof. Traverse left into the wide crack. Climb the very steep
crack going up the centre of the wall. A mantelshelf is made at the top
to eventually reach a lower off. Peg and long sling (this may be replaced
by SS pegs). A continuation has been climbed to the top (for the purists)
but is very loose and not worth while. F.A. Rowland Edwards (solo). 18th
November 2005

A Senior Moment E3 5c #
Excellent climbing in a great ‘out there’ position. Excellent
rock although the last few moves at the top are a bit loose but safe. This
route starts at the base of the next arête with the large overhang
at its base. 1) 110 ft 5c. Climb the cracks to the roof
and traverse boldly left to the arête. Climb this to the steep slab.
At its top step out onto the arête proper and follow this to ledges
just below the top. Climb up these onto the grass above and belays in the
boulders behind. F.A. Rowland Edwards (solo) 9th Novemeber 2005.

Magicos Negro E3 5c #
A superb climb. Start left of A Senior Moment, below a very sharp overhang.
1) 110ft 5c. Climb the groove right of the roof and step
left below it to the edge. Make a bold move left onto the black face. Move
left into the faint cracks and follow these until a move right is made and
then up to the sloping ledge. Belay Possible. Step down and climb round
the arête onto good but small ledges. Climb the slab; at its top step
out left onto the arête proper and follow this to ledges just below
the top. Climb up these onto the grass above and belays in the boulders
behind. F.A. Rowland Edwards( solo) 25th November 2005

Chair Ladder

Zawn Rinny

Shark Alley E5
6a #
100 ft Step off the "bridge boulder" that spans the gap to Bulging Wall
area. Traverse to a totally blind and sweaty move around the blunt left
arete, and swing boldly into the back of the black (normally wet) chimney.
And shuffle up this at VS!....not. FA Mark Edwards & Kevin Thomas (his
second new route). (on sight)

The Special Society
Crack E3 5a 5c # 190 ft Basically takes a traverse of the north walls of Rinny Zawn
to a reasonable ledge belay below the obvious crack system on the overhanging
buttress left of Human Skewer. FA Mark Edwards & Kevin Thomas (on sight)

Pixie Dust
Corner E7/8 6b #Start right of Human Skewer and just left of the entrance to the
deep cave. 30m Start below an obvious crack and higher
groove line. Pull on good holds to the start of the closed crack. Bold poorly
protected (tiny rippable RP and very poor micro cam) and difficult climbing
leads to a ledge on the left, rest. Move back right and pull over the roof/groove
onto another ledge on the left. Follow the poorly protected corner (unless
you are willing to carry monster cams!) to exit left. Belay here on poor
belays, or continue left for 15m over rotten granite. OR have a rope in-situ.
FA Mark Edwards

Hella Point

The following route is found on the North Face.

Mark of my Beast
E9 6c #
20m Another hard classic, and worthy neighbour to “Son of Satan”.
Very bold climbing in a totally committing position, where protection placed
on the lead can be best described as “decoration”. Start at
ground zero and in the boulder filled channel at low tide. Climb to a small
roof on the left of the wall. Arrange protection. Swing boldly right and
follow the overhanging thin seam with powerful footless moves to make a
big swing right to a flat hold (from here the next moves are serious and
a fall is not an option). Now the crux, make a high and strenuous move to
stand on the flat hold, and reach back down to place a small cam (not possible
from the flat hold). Continue with difficulty up the seam above to exit
via a wide crumbly crack in the upper wall. FA Mark Edwards (head-point)
August 2002

The following routes are on the small wall at the right-hand
end of the crag.

Un-Noticed
Difficult30 feet The cracks in the blunt arete left of Judgement
Day. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver (solo) 24th February 2001. Climbed
on-sight.

Un-Recorded
Hard Severe 4c30 feet The centre of the slab between Here's Laughing
at You and Two Big Clean Breasts. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver
(solo) 24th February 2001. Climbed on-sight.

Vessacks

Barcelona
HVS 5b 4c ** #130ft Low tide start essential. Start at the extreme seaward
end of the cliff just above the barnacle line and follow this line leftwards
with a hard move after 10 metres to gain a crackline. Swing around left
again then climb a groove to just below the top then move left again and
descend a groove to a ledge.Belay. Continue left and down slightly across
a steep wall to reach thin ledges then continue left in a great position
to the lefthand end of the cliff.
FA P O'Sullivan, C Griffiths 20th August 2000

Vessacks West (O.S. Ref. 377
217)

The following route is located immediately left of ‘Elizabeth’
on the ‘Rock-pool Buttress’…

Margaret Very
Severe 4c #60ft On the narrow face that forms the left edge of the
buttress is a large diagonal crack/groove, climb this for a short way to
gain a small shallow corner on the left. Move right at the capping overlap
using a good hold to gain another small corner leading up to the easy slab
above. Follow the slab to the top.
First Recorded Ascent: Barnaby Carver, Miss Helen T. Pardoe. 15th September
2006 (on-sight).

The next route is to the right of ‘Saskia’
on the ‘Rock-pool Buttress’.

Time for Tiffin?
Very Severe 4c #55ft Step across the rock-pool and climb the steep crack
that is 10 feet (3 metres) to the right of ‘Saskia’. At the
top of the crack move left onto a ledge and continue more easily to the
top. First Recorded Ascent: Barnaby Carver, Miss Helen T. Pardoe. 3rd June
2006 (on-sight).

Penberth Cove Area

"New routes have been
climbed in the cove, two on the established crag (as described in the C.C.
guide) and several on the other areas around the cove. All routes described
here are above VS and therefore are “new” routes; The C.C. guide
declares…”a large number of climbs graded from Difficult to
Very Severe have been reported here…”and”...left for the
curious to rediscover.” This is a shame, because the routes will be
lost to history (and claimed as new routes in the future making more
work for me!!- dave)." Note: details of routes that didn't make
the CC Guide can be found at http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climjer.html.

PENBERTH WALLThis is the landward crag that is non-tidal
and can be seen on the East Side of the cove.

Approach up the coastal path to the “crown
of the headland” (C.C. guide), and descend right down a grassy gully
and back right again to the base of the crag. Many lefts to right slanting
cracks and seams, and a prominent roof can identify the crag. The routes
are described from left to right.

In Solo Charge E1
5b #
Start at the left-hand side of the crag (looking in). Climbs the obvious
left to right slanting crack and short groove, to the obvious off-width-finishing
crack. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight solo)

Grazing Aliens E7
6c *** #20m The main challenge; powering over the roof in the centre of the
crag. Technical, testing moves with scant protection, micro-cams are useful.
Start below the centre of the roof. Climb the lower wall via a horizontal
crack to the roof. Arrange small cams for protection; pull out over the
roof and make hard strenuous moves to get established on the upper wall.
Protection and easier climbing leads to the top via a thin crack. FA Mark
Edwards (after abseil inspection) August 2002

Forty Nothing and
still Smiling! HVS 4b #
20m A pleasant climb to an airy position above the central roof. Start
up the short right-hand crack to join the roof at its right-hand end. Move
up until it is possible to step left onto a narrow ledge. Make a move left
again into a crack, and follow this line to the top. FA Mark Edwards &
Harry Mason August 2002 (on-sight)

Below these routes and down at sea level is a fine clean
wall with a left to right diagonal crack/seam.

WKD!
E3 5b * #15mA virtually protection-less climb with a very hard granite landing.
Climb the left to right seam, and stay with the seam till its end on blind
under-clings. FA Mark Edwards (on-sight solo)

Down to the left (looking out) on the “continuous
20m tower of delightful-ochre coloured rock” (C.C. guide); are a couple
of new additions to the two routes described in the guide.

Headbirth E7
6c *** # 20m Breaths new life into an old 80s’ route. A hard direct
start under and over the roof; tackling the main challenge “They Do
at That Age” avoids. Start from a narrow ledge above a crystal clear
pool. Climb to the roof and arrange small highly questionable protection
in the very shallow seam. Pull hard directly over the roof and continue
up the wider crack above, finish up the headwall right of the chimney, bold.
FA Mark Edwards (after inspection) August 2002

Bloodbath E4
6a * #A climb of increasing difficulty and character. 20m Start up
the right-hand crack (as for They Do at That Age), and continue to a sloping
ledge. Arrange protection, and swing left around the arete to make a hard
move into the start of a shallow crack. Follow the crack to a large break
and spike.( alternative finish: move left and finish up the chimney at E2
5c)…OR…Arrange protection, and pull up with commitment into
the wide crack on the right of the arete above, and follow with difficulty
to the top. FA Mark Edwards (on-sight) August 2002

On the West Side of the cove a hard climb has been found
above the popular fishermen’s ledge. Follow the coastal footpath west,
to a small path running along the edge of the cove. This descends onto the
fisherman's ledge. The first obvious feature is…

Fat Crack E1
5a #
10m This climbs the obvious off-width-slanting crack on the arete. The
grade can be reduced if extremely large cams are used! FA Mark Edwards (on-sight
solo) August 2002

September Sessions
E7 6c *** #10m This extended boulder problem is up the black streak and thin
over-hanging crack on the seaward face just left of East Side Story. Although
short in stature, this climb packs in a lot of climbing! From the very first
move make hard moves to gain the thin and very shallow crack. Finish up
this with great difficulty. FA Mark Edwards (head-point solo) September
2002

Follow the fishermans path past September Sessions until
a proud buttress of rock is seen forming a small headland. On the back of
the butress, first seen on arrival, is a leftwards slanting groove/ramp
above a slippery cleft.

The Jim Beam
Experience E2 6b #
30ft On the SW face at the left hand side is a short overhang above
a crap landing. Make dissproportianately hard moves utilising a tiny crystal
somewhere to gain a flake on the lip which is followed easily to top. Pat
your self on the back for that one. FA Chris Hall Solo May 2003

Eat on Nun
HS 4c
30ft Right of previous route is another line of flakes. Approach
from below up steep wall on good holds (or easier traverse in from break).
Continue up flakes to tricky move up rounded boulder on top.

St Levans Wall Area

Midway between Levans Wall (Upper Tier) and Marconi Slab
is a jumble of giant boulders, containing a deep, tidal chasm (dry about
3 hours either side of low tide). This contains:

The Similar Brothers E2 5c ** #35ft On the landward side of the chasm is a very obvious crack/groove.
Climb it steeply, but with excellent protection, to the top. Sustained and
excellent. Very damp on the first ascent, thus climbed in less than impeccable
style! FA Rik Meek, Pete O'Sullivan 06/05/01 Note: The Similar Brothers
has had a repeat ascent, confirming the grade and suggesting that it might
be worth three stars

Dick Van Dyke Very
Severe 4c #30 feet
Just right of Twink is a slab leading to some airy moves
up the steep black chimney. FA Martin Dunning, Brian Hannon 3 June 2001

Tweak E1
5b #30 feet
Takes the arete with a distinctive sloping ledge at half
height, 5 metres right of Dick Van Dyke. Difficult moves with dodgy gear,
and a tweak on the protuberant tip of the ledge, lead to easier climbing
above. FA Brian Hannon, Martin Dunning 3 June 2001

The following route is on the main area of the crag:

Whitebait E2
5c #
The tempting but short flake crack 3 metres right of Redfish is climbed
to a horizontal break. Make a couple of difficult moves left before moving
up and right to climb the easier slab. It is possible to climb directly
above the flake crack at about 6a (not led). FA Brian Hannon, Rik Meek,
Martin Dunning, Pete O'Sullivan 3 June 2001

LOWER TIER

To the right of the groove of Panos is an open slab, brown
at the bottom and silver-grey higher up. Captain Chaos takes the right arete
of this slab, pulling through the overhang (and is in the wrong order in
the existing guide.) The following route climbs the slab.

Bandwagon E1
5b #40 feet
Start at the bottom left corner of the slab, and follow a line up and rightwards,
finishing up good flake cracks. FA Andy March, Justin Ford, Bob Bennett,
Gareth Palmer (27/02/05)

Logon Rock

LAD COVEOS Ref 379 220

This first climb is between Cliff Jumpers and Mothver.

Sink or Swim Hard Severe 4c35 feet Climb the left side of the slab starting up a steep black vein and finishing up a short crack. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: B. Carver (solo) 1st July 2001. Climbed on-sight.

The next climb is right of 99 Lead Balloons.

Tide Line Difficult35 feet From the ledge make a short hand-traverse right to the crack on the right side of the slab, finish up this.
FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: B. CARVER (solo) 1st July 2001. Climbed on-sight.

Cribba Head

Cropper Buttress

Cool Corner VS
4c17 metres #
Climbs the corners just right of The Harvest. Climb easily to a good spike
below the lower corner. Up this to ledges, then take the widening crack
in the final corner to the top. FA Andy March, Luke Pavey, 9th March 2002

Lovely, Lovely,
Lovely Direct Finish E5/6 6b #
Climbs straight up from the top of the initial flake using tiny crystals
to the break, moving slightly left via a small chicken head to finish. FA
Johnny Woods, Charlie, Woodburn April 2009

Boscawen Point

(p195 of South Coast
part of the latest CC West Penwith guide)

Lower Tier Below the start of ‘Lucretia’ is
a sloping ledge leading to the top of the lower tier buttress where the
following routes can be found on a short (8-10m) wall. The base can be reached
by an easy absail or a short scramble down the gully on the right (facing
out). Here ledges give easy access to a number of short but enjoyable routes
in the lower grades. Whilst not tidal the ledges are probably affected by
a large swell at high tide.

The routes are described from left to right (facing in)
and were all climbed on 28 April 2002

Leuc Left Difficult
#
9 metres Obvious crack in the LH side of the wall. FA Andy Pemberton,
Katharine Woods 28 April 2002

My Name is Luka
Difficult #
10 metres The obvious black corner on the left of the prominent nose
of rock. FA Dan Lear, Nicky Beaumont 28 April 2002

Cave Buttress

Sharpy The Cereal
Poisoner E2 6a #50ft The route over the overlaps right of the HS. FA Goi Ashmore,
Roy Thomas August 2002

Footloose Area

Three new routes have
been climbed to the left of “Footloose” slab and take the obvious
lines centred on the arete. The routes are described from right to the left.

Spanish Knights
E3 5c ** #
30m Start up the obvious vertical crack left of the “Footloose”
start. Pull over onto the slab, and climb the thinner crack up the slab
towards the arete. Climb the arete until it is possible to follow a crack
line finish up the left side to the top. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight)

Marble Harbour E5
6a *** #
30mTakes the arete direct and boldly. Start up the next thin line/seam
to the left of “Spanish Knights”; micro protection and bold
climbing. Climb the seam until its end, and swing powerfully right to better
holds. Follow the thin crack line onto the slab, and climb diagonally right
to the arete. Follow the arete direct to a junction with “Spanish
Knights”, and finish up the left side crack line as for “Spanish
Knights”. FA Mark Edwards August 2002

Magnetic Variation
E2 5b ** #
30m A more direct line up the area of rock which “South without
Scott” is thought to have taken. Climb boldly the sloping stepped
ledges to a thin crack in a groove. Pull up and right into a steep layback
crack that leads to the arete. Follow the arete on the right side, before
stepping onto the left at the top to finish. FA Mark Edwards & Harry
Mason August 2002 (on-sight)

The next routes are within the cave right of The Sea for
Breakfast, and described from left to right:

Cave Groove Direct
VS 4c * #
20mA fine open groove climb capped by an overhang. Start within the
cave entrance, and climb up into the groove via a ledge. Follow the groove
to the roof and pull strenuously around this to finish up a short crack
to the top. FA Mark Edwards & Harry Mason August 2002 (on-sight)

London Bride E6
6b *** #20m A brilliant and rewarding climb, tackling two contrasting halves
in climbing styles. Start within the cave as for Cave Groove direct. Break
out right to make a difficult move into the right-hand square-cut hanging
groove. Climb the groove to the roof, and move right into another similar
groove. From here pull out left onto the open face, and climb delicately
and boldly to the capping roof. Pull through the roof via a hanging short
groove to finish. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight)

Marbles Arch E6
6b *** #20m Astonishing climbing, tackling steep overhanging rock with a
unique finish full of character. This climb, powers up the right wall (looking-in)
of the cave and the chimney above. Start below an obvious overhanging crack-line
on the right wall. Climb onto a ledge, and pull powerfully around a small
roof to enter the crack. Follow the crack to a pod recess. Move up and out
right to make a committing reach across the void to the opposite wall of
the cave. Wild bridging turns to narrower and narrower chimney technique,
to make a final move out of the lip of the cave and finish. FA Mark Edwards
August 2002 (on-sight)

Trewavas Head

Figurehead
E3 5c 60ft #
Essentially a direct finish through the large roof at the top of The Bowsprit
- it overhangs some 12 feet in a 40 foot section!.(which has itself been
substantially cleaned up). After the first overhang, where the parent route
disappears left, instead scuttle rightwards to the arete, where a good no-hands
rest can be achieved with some imagination. Then take the seven foot flat
roof direct at its widest point, past two very pleasant protuberances at
the lip, on big but flat holds. FA Martin Jones and Dan Kinnaird

Martin also points out that there is some fine Deep water
soloing at Rinsey Beach (the lovely cove directly below
the Trewavas car park). "Despite being relatively compact, with routes
up to 30’ high and mainly in the lower grades (up to 5c, but with
potential for higher/harder routes in the back of the zawn), this deserves
to become a popular stopping point on the way back from the crag. All the
climbing is located in one inlet, on the right of the beach (looking out)
past a large flat rock shelf. Two-thirds height and upwards. Very, very
nice."