January 2013

January 30, 2013

A Century of Cotton: Selections from The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection, 1800-1900FIDM Museum Larson GalleryTuesday through Saturday, 10am–5pmOpens to the public February 12, 2013

Showcasing the beauty and versatility of cotton fabrics, this exhibition highlights selected cotton garments and accessories from The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection. Beginning in the late seventeenth-century, lightweight cotton fabrics gradually supplanted the dominance of fragile and expensive silks. As cotton became increasingly popular, fashionable dress incorporated this new medium into its vocabulary. Including woven, printed and embroidered cottons, A Century of Cotton also traces the dramatic changes that occurred in the fashionable female silhouette between 1800 and 1900.

January 25, 2013

In the 1890s, most women’s dresses were made-to-measure. Though ready-made clothing was increasingly common, garments that required a precise fit or featured delicate embellishment were typically custom-made, either by the wearer herself, or by a trusted seamstress. Though some women had the financial means to purchase their wardrobes in Paris, most women relied on the advice of their (hopefully up-to-date) dressmaker, example gowns made in the latest style, or on printed descriptions of new fashions. Fashion magazines gave detailed descriptions of stylish garments so that women could make, or have made, approximations of the styles described. This passage from June 1894 is typically detailed: "A dainty organdie with a pale lavender ground, deeply spotted with deep purple flowerets, has two simple six-inch ruffles finishing the skirt, each ruffle trimmed with two rows of narrow moire ribbon in the deep purple shade."1 The description continues, providing the reader with enough information on cut, material, and embellishment to enable the creation of a similar garment. Simple line drawings sometimes accompanied these written descriptions.

Since its inception in 1992, the Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition has
honored the incredible work of costume designers in the film industry. Now in its 21st year, the 2013 exhibition will feature over 100 costumes from selected 2012 films, including all five Academy Award nominees for best Costume Design. Including costumes from A Royal Affair, Anna Karenina, Argo, Django Unchained, Hitchcock, Les Misérables, Lincoln, Mirror Mirror, Skyfall, Snow White and the Huntsman, and other films, the exhibition will offer visitors a close-up view of the costumer's art.

In 2012, The Artist by Costume Designer Mark Bridges won the Academy Award® for Costume Design. Selected costumes from The Artist will be on display in this year's exhibition.

January 21, 2013

Two of the twentieth-century's greatest couturiers were born today, January 21. In 1895, Cristobal Balenciaga was born in Getaria, Spain. Ten years later, Christian Dior was born in Granville, Normandy, France. In addition to sharing a birthday, Balenciaga and Dior were both masters of their craft, creating extraordinary garments and influencing generations of designers. In celebration of their respective birthdays, careers and legacy, we're sharing previously unseen images of each designer's work.

Cristobal Balenciaga1958
Silk matelasséTransfer from the Museum at FIT2004.291.10

To see other Cristobal Balenciaga pieces from our collection, click here.

Christian Diorc. 1955Silk satinGift of Mary Coquillard97.196.1

To see other Christian Dior pieces in the FIDM Museum collection, click here.

January 15, 2013

Though we're not a natural history museum or a science center, we have lots of butterflies in our collection. No taxidermy specimens here, FIDM Museum butterflies are woven, printed, painted, and embroidered. Our curatorial team has no specific intent to collect garments and accessories decorated with butterflies, but the popularity of the motif makes it easy to acquire compelling pieces featuring this colorful, winged insect. According to our Curator Kevin Jones, "I would never accept an object into the collection just because it has a certain motif. It would have to be fab for a number of other reasons."

Butterflies can be found on every continent, with the exception of Antarctica. Diverse cultures have developed symbolic interpretations of the butterfly, many of which focus on its dramatic life-cycle. Hatching from the egg as a larva or caterpillar, the insect grows and eats until it reaches the chrysalis stage. During the chrysalis, a shell forms around the caterpillar, protecting the insect as it undergoes a metamorphosis into a beautifully colored butterfly. In ancient Greece, butterflies represented the soul, while Christian interpretations use the butterfly's life-cycle to symbolize resurrection. In parts of Asia, pairs of butterflies represent marital harmony and happiness. Butterflies have also been used to symbolize the transience of childhood, and are often used to decorate garments worn by little girls.

January 09, 2013

Schoolgirl chic with a naughty edge was a strong theme throughout Gianni Versace’s Autumn/Winter 1994-95 collection. Statuesque supermodels Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Nadja Auermann walked the runway clad in shiny, candy-colored miniskirts paired with fuzzy, belly-baring turtleneck sweaters and Empire waist vinyl dresses with peek-a-boo midriffs. According to WWD, the “collection included hardly an outfit that wouldn't get a girl expelled."1 The aggressive sexuality showcased in these garments was a trademark of Versace's work. According to fashion historian Richard Martin, "Versace seized the streetwalker's bravado and conspicuous wardrobe, along with her blatant, brandished sexuality, and introduced them into high fashion."2

January 03, 2013

Getting organized is a great way to usher in a new year. With everything in its place, new projects are easy to plan and efficient to manage. In preparation for 2013, FIDM Museum Collections Manager and Assistant Registrar Danielle Killam spent several weeks in late 2012 inventorying our collection, and refining its organization. In today's post, Dani takes us through this process.

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There is never a lack of tasks to accomplish in our office here at the FIDM Museum & Galleries. However, Museum Registrar Meghan Hansen and I recently began a large-scale inventory project on top of our everyday duties. Are we crazy? Maybe. But we were definitely happy to add this project to our to-do list.

New objects are constantly being acquired into our collection. To make room for new acquisitions, we often need to shift the existing storage configuration. To ensure that we can quickly locate a specific evening gown or pair of shoes, we have set out to verify the location and existence of every single accessioned object in the FIDM Museum collection. Daunting? Yes, but oh-so satisfying. Being in storage is truly my happy place.