Description

This is a steep, almost vertical climb that is mostly pockets and jugs.

The technical crux is probably getting to and clipping the first bolt; for me the harder part was clipping the chains because the pockets get smaller and scarcer and you have to climb a bit higher than you'd like in order to comfortably clip them.

There is an interesting, rounded, wooden "hold" just after and to the right of the second bolt: it is the remains of a shrub stem.

Location

This is the left-most of three routes on the south-facing, next-to-west-most section of Hard Rock. The least-strenuous way to get there is to follow the trail when it turns right to go to the main Hard Rock wall (west-facing). Go north (left) along the main wall; you will turn west and by staying along the base of the rock you will end up at the base of these three newer Hard Rock routes.

Alternatively, don't turn right to the main Hard Rock area and instead continue straight to the base of the wall you see ahead of you as you come up the trail to the Hard Rock/White Wave/Escape Buttress areas.

worth doing once because of the cool wooden hold/stump. the crux is probably the start. as the info says clipping the chains is a bit nerve racking since the holds aren't quite where you want them. the grade seems pretty accurate.

Getting to the first few bolts is definitely the hardest part of the route. Probably .9- moves. The rest is fairly straight forward with good pockets to be found throughout the entire route. A good warm up for the two routes to the right of it and a great belay spot. Thanks for whoever took the time to put those wooden holds in

Agreed that a fall at the second bolt could be dangerous. In fact, there were a some guys up there in March telling me that their friend broke his ankle in that spot a few days prior. (He fell while clipping apparently.) I'm not one to choke the chicken that often, I'd rather take the whip usually, but after hearing their story I couldn't help it right there! The polished limestone feet aren't reassuring either, though this route's no where near as polished as some of the climbs around the corner.

After a near ground-fall trying to get to the 2nd bolt, we ended up using a stick clip on the 2nd bolt. Also ended up heading way right and using the holds on the 10a to get past the 2nd bolt. Since both my partner and I had essentially fired the 10c to the right (on top rope), it was quite a surprise that we both flailed on the lower section of this route. Past bolt 2,it is good,consistent 5.8 climbing.

Agreed the first two bolts on this require good footwork and have ground-fall potential. Really good to get focused, helped me with confidence to get to harder grades. Holds seem smaller than other routes at the grade in Hard Rock, making precision important. fun route.