2015 ALASKA & the YUKON

¢osmos, aka ¢heap(est)mos(t), #8360

Late season (September) departures offer even greater opportunities for viewing a variety of wildlife. Departures after mid-August should enjoy blazing fall colors but since I had to “rush it a bit” (move the tour up by one week), I may not see as much as I had hoped. Since this trip is with “¢heap(est)mos(t),” ABSOLUTELY NO MEALS ARE INCLUDED!!! At least the long range weather/temperature forecast is good: highs in the 60s. NO 90s and 100s HEAT LIKE IN HOUSTON, but showers are forecast for much of the time (20-40%) and there are many forest fires burning throughout Alaska, particularly in the wilderness areas But based on the 2007 trip, this should be a good trip anyway.

Begin in Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city, then board a boat for an up-close look at the wildlife in Prince William Sound and overnight In Valdez, the “Switzerland of Alaska.” Continue to Tok, the “Dog Sled Capital of the World.” Enter Canada’s Yukon Territory and overnight in Whitehorse, capital of the Yukon and the territorial headquarters of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Follow the Trail of ’98 over the same mountains that determined gold seekers traveled in the middle of winter, and continue to Skagway with its wooden sidewalks and colorful saloons. Spend two nights in Dawson City and soak up the exciting history of this Gold Rush town on your sightseeing tour. Cross back into Alaska via the Top of the World Highway and in Fairbanks, board a sternwheeler riverboat cruise on the Chena and Tanana Rivers. Next, ride the infamous Alaska Railroad to Denali National Park for free time to explore on your own; and take an optional wildlife tour to seek out grizzly bear, caribou, moose, and Dall sheep. On the way back to Anchorage, stop at the Iditarod Visitor Center to learn about the race.

Day 1, Wednesday, August 12, Anchorage
Houston weather yesterday: 107F with heat index 115. Definitely time to “escape.”
(Not a bad day! It is just that LONG flight!) Being an afternoon flight (the only direct flight with United), it will be easy to make the flight – it is just that it will be a long flight but no problems with “connections.” The return flight has a connection, but there is a reasonable time. I did upgrade the seats on all 3 flights. With an afternoon departure, I won’t have to rush: I scheduled the StuporShuttle pickup at 12:05-12:20; still a decent price even though they raised it $12 – almost 25%.

United UA 650

Houston - Anchorage

3:18 P - 7:39 P

7:21

“Lunch” is included on the flight – i.e. a very light “dinner.” It was about 5PM Houston time (dinner), 2PM Alaska time (late lunch), and it was edible but not great. Fortunately I got a Wendy’s burger at the airport before we left.

The best part of the trip was when we were getting near Anchorage and flying over the Chergach Mountains. Look down on the jagged, snow-covered peaks was a great view. I wish that I had had my camera out to get some pictures.

There is a 3-hour time difference between Houston and Anchorage. Even with getting in late, there is no loss of activities on “Day 1” since nothing is scheduled and NO meals are provided. There is no mention of any disorientation meeting. It is quite late so I can’t squeeze in a trip to the Alaska Native Heritage Center.

The hotel offers round trip airport shuttle service complimentary for guests and fortunately one was already on the way for other guests so I had only a short wait – much less than for my (not) “priority” luggage. The plane arrived at 7:25; luggage at 8:10; the shuttle at 8:30, and finally to the hotel at 9. “What’s-It’s-Name”, our Tour Director, was NOT on hand this evening to answer any questions but did leave copies of a note with that information for the cattle/guests. We’ll find out tomorrow what its name is and how many cattle are in this herd and other (mis)information. ¢heap(est)mos(t) doesn’t include ANY meals and the hotel just offers a restaurant, which is actually a bar “next door” and the staff there wasn’t interested in selling me anything but drinks. The * Free WiFi wasn’t free and the promised “grocery/convenience store” was just a shelf of munchies and some cold drinks. The hotel’s (and Cheapmos(t)’s) propaganda really over described/rated it. This hotel has really gone downhill over the years. I used to like it but wouldn’t recommend it now. Hotel: Ramada Downtown Anchorage (MF) (same as ’07)

Day 2, Thursday, Aug 13, Anchorage - Valdez
(mixed reviews day) The last time I stayed at this hotel, they included a continental breakfast, but not anymore – just that bar next door so Munchies for breakfast. Bags out at 8, on the bus at 8:45.

With the late arrival last night there was no time to see anything in Anchorage and we leave early today to get to Whittier. On the last day, we arrive in Anchorage and are taken directly to the airport. So on this trip, we see nothing of Anchorage.

After breakfast, we get to find out the important information: a) our coach has the Cosmos logo so no worry about coach number; b) our driver is Mark; c) there are 39 head of cattle on a 50 head bus so no crowding, and d) “What’s-Its-Name” = Mike.

There are two busses involved today – one transfer coach to take us down to Whittier to visit the Whitiots; the other (our regular coach) will take the long driving route around with our luggage and meet us in Valdez. After going down through the tunnel to Whittier, board a BOAT today for a (somewhat boring on the 5th time) up-close look at the various life in PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND, the 3-mile face of Columbia Glacier, and the epicenter of the Great Alaskan Earthquake of 1964. The Cheapmos(t) description made it seem like the usual commercial Prince William Sound cruise. However we were on a 75 passenger chartered excursion boat for an 8-hour (11AM – 7PM) almost non-stop cruise from Whittier to Valdez and surprise, an excellent lunch onboard is included. We did make one sightseeing stop at the Columbia Glacier, and I did get some, hopefully good, pictures of various critters, but no whales.

After we finish the cruise, we meet our regular bus for the transfer to the ho-hum hotel where there is a “minor problem” – none of our room key-cards would work. Apparently someone had miscoded them and we all had to go to the reception desk to have them recoded. They do have free wi-fi but their network isn’t connected to the Internet so it’s worthless. There is a Subway nearby for dinner. We spend the night in Valdez (my 2nd visit here), the “Switzerland of Alaska.” The hotel doesn't have a/c so we have to open the window to get the room to cool off. Hotel: Mountain Sky Hotel (ST)

Day 3, Friday, Aug 14, Valdez - Tok
(A good day) Hooray – the local doghouse wifi is finally talking (VERY slowly) to the internet so I managed to upload my trip notes. Again it is munchies from home as breakfast. Then at 7:45 we leave Valdez, home of the Alyeska Pipeline Terminal which we passed on our way into the harbor yesterday. Today, after an overcast start, the skies clear and we enjoy views of Bridal Veil Falls, Worthington Glacier, and Thompson Pass. Our route takes us up over scenic Tahnita Pass. After a nice stop at the Wrangell-St. Elias visitor center, we drive a short distance to have a very expen$ive $oup and $andwich stop (on our own). Then we have about 120 miles of uneventful driving. We did see a “baby” moose grazing (baby moose = mice?), eventually we are overnight in Tok, the “Dog Sled Capital of the World.” Note: as we get to Tok, don't blink since it is/was a one-stop-sign town. This was an interesting stop back in ’07. Other than the fact that the town has grown a bit, it is still a one-stop-sign town and the “original” lodge/restaurant which had just burned when I was here in ’07 and was then just a motel, is still just a motel. The hotel is the same as ’07. Dinner tonight was, as in 2007, at “Fast Eddy’s” and, as in 2007, we will be back there for lunch in a few days traveling from Dawson City to Fairbanks. Also, as in 2007, tomorrow morning we can have (for $3) a light breakfast of juice, cold cereal, and muffins – still in the motel laundry room. Hotel: Tok Lodge (ST)

Day 4, Saturday, Aug 15, Tok - Whitehorse (Canada)(Passport needed today.) (A decent day) There was an occasional light sprinkle overnight and the low is 43 this morning. But after some early overcast it turns out another beautiful dayAfter a very early breakfast in the laundry room depart at 7AM and join the Alaska Highway for a long drive (423+ miles in 11 hours) on mostly a very rough, very dusty gravel entity mislabeled as a highway. It is only a short drive to the border where, on the Canadian side, we all have to get off the bus and get passed by the Canadian officials in the office.

Follow along the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. We have a very late lunch of soup and sandwiches at about 2:30. Skirt the shores of Kluane Lake, once a meeting place for crews constructing the Alaska Highway. Stop at the Kluane National Park, home to 19,625-foot-high Mount Logan, Canada’s highest peak. Unfortunately for most of the day the scenery was very similar and not all that interesting. The next two nights are in Whitehorse, capital of the Yukon and the territorial headquarters of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Nice, but Dawson City is better. Hotel: High Country Inn (ST) (2 nights). This is definitely the best hotel so far, and I don’t remember being in a better one at any time back in ’07. It’s NICE!

Day 5, Sunday, Aug 16, Whitehorse (Canada). Visit to Skagway (US)(Passport needed today.) (Mixed reviews) It looked like it was going to be nice weather today, just chilly and windy. However it quickly became almost totally overcast and gloomy. We leave at 8AM to follow the Trail of ‘98 over the same mountains that thousands of determined gold seekers scaled on foot in the dead of winter while heading for the Klondike. We make a quick stop in Carcross (formerly CARibou CROSSing). Travel on for another hour, then from Frasier, we have an optional, but miserably poor, train trip on the narrow-gauge White Pass & Yukon Railway for what sounds like (in the propaganda) an all day train ride from Whitehorse to Skagway, but back in ’07 they lied. The train didn’t start in Whitehorse; it started in Carcross and goes 67 miles to Skagway - but ¢heap-mos(t) doesn't even do that. We had to ride for hours all the way to Fraser from where we got only 27 miles and a measly 85 minute train ride to Skagway. Even the scenery wasn’t all that great. I won’t take that train ride again; I will save the money and take the bus to Skagway. Most of the passengers are suckered in but some are smart and like me, take the coach. The coach ride from Fraser to Skagway is short: only 25 minutes including the Canadian border crossing. It is far more comfortable and the scenery is good though not great.

Stroll the wooden sidewalks past charming false-front buildings and colorful saloons. So they write, but there are three good reasons this didn’t work out as expected: a) the weather – overcast, chilly, and windy; b) it is Sunday; c) the place is “empty” since only one small cruise ship (maybe 400 passengers) and one other tour bus are there. Basically the town is CLOSED. A few of the “goldsmiths” and jewelry shops were open that was about it. There was only a VERY limited choice is where to eat (2 places). After lunch I headed back to the bus and was ready to leave two hours ahead of schedule. This is my 4th visit to Skagway and should have been a nice visit but it fell flat.

On the way back we again stop at Caribou Crossing for a rest break, and a short stop for pictures at the Carcross Desert. Back to the motel at 7 to end another 11-hour day.

Actually I think that I would have enjoyed the day more if I had skipped the Skagway trip entirely and stayed in Whitehorse to visit the YUKON BERINGIA INTERPRETIVE CENTRE, where you can meet the Ice Age giant mammals that once ruled the ancient subcontinent. The Globus version of the trip does make that visit.

Optional: White Pass and Yukon Railroad. Optional: NO!!!!!! Travel back in time and re-live the Gold Rush. Follow the original route of the hopeful stampeders in discomfort aboard refurbished overcrowded train cars with poor views of the scenery. This three-hour (????) narrated (inaudible) railroad experience travels only a short distance between Carcross and Skagway over a 3000' pass. View cascading waterfalls (where?), not-so-spectacular mountains, valleys, and the Lynn Canal. I’m glad that it is optional so I don’t have to waste $72 The other time I took it, the trip was VERY disappointing.

Day 6, Monday, Aug 17, Whitehorse - Dawson City
(An OK day.) We don’t have to head out until 9AM. It starts out clear but gets hazy with light overcast. Showers are forecast this afternoon late (true) and tonight 90%. Tomorrow 100%. Head northwest through the town of Carmacks, once an important supply station for gold seekers on their way to the Klondike. There is a nice roadside soup & sandwiches stop for lunch. Later stop at the fiery very placid Five Finger Rapids, a major obstacle to the hordes of fortune seekers that passed this way but it no longer looks like much of any danger.. Our destination is Dawson City, the center of excitement after the first gold strike in the Klondike in 1896, which led to the world’s largest gold rush. We get in about 5:45 after a long day of driving and not much scenery variation. My sinuses are giving me **** also.

Tonight is the high-flying entertainment of DIAMOND TOOTH GERTIE’S SALOON, featuring ragtime music, can-can girls, and an old-fashioned casino. Since my stomach is reacting to lunch, I’ll wait until tomorrow night for this - we have our choice. The light rain is also a deterrent. Maybe tomorrow will be better. Our names are on a Cheapmos(t) guest list so no problems getting in. Maybe the rain will also let up. Hotel: Downtown Dawson City (very cramped and very noisy due to the bars across the street but ok) (MF-) (2 nights)

Day 7, Tuesday, Aug 18, Dawson City in the Rain
(Nice day except for the rain) I think I’m allergic to Canada; the sinuses were fine in Anchorage, Valdez, and Tok. Then when we got to Whitehorse, they started getting really bad. No pictures yesterday due to the weather, nor today due to the rain. It rained all night but the worst was my sinuses giving major problems – I had to “sleep” sitting up. Do I even want to do the morning excursion? I decided to go on the 3-hour slightseeing but stayed on the bus during the two short stops.

A full day to explore the history of this Gold Rush town. Highlights on our morning tour include Bonanza Creek, site of Claim #1, where the first gold strike was made; Robert Service’s cabin; and a photo stop at the SS Keno, the last sternwheeler to run between Dawson and Whitehorse. Back in Dawson City, lunch is another soup-and-sandwich and this one is really good.

Dawson City is a nice place to just walk around and check out the restored buildings BUT NOT IN THE RAIN. This afternoon we are given a voucher to take a Parks Service tour of our choice. But since it is raining fairly well, and 3 of the 4 options are walking tours, I’ll have to skip the options.

Note: there is a requirement that any buildings constructed now from originals must be not only rebuilt/reconstructed as they were 'back then' but also with the same or very similar use and name. It is called re-activation. It is a very interesting city to just walk around and look at the reconstructed/resurrected buildings.

Day 8, Wednesday, Aug 19, Dawson City - Chicken (US) - Fairbanks(Passport needed today.) (A fair day) Ouch! Up at 5, bag out at 6, and depart at 7 for a long day (400+ miles / 13 hours / wind / low wind chill / low overcast / intermittent rain) and the scenery is great - so they say. Motor over the Top of the World Highway (not a “highway,” but instead a wash-board rough gravel and slush road – and in the rain – again) and re-enter Alaska. Lunch is at “Slow Eddy’s”. Travel through the village of Chicken (the residents couldn’t spell the name of the Alaskan chicken: Ptarmigan) and head west on the Alaska Highway. Stop at an authentic Alaska roadhouse (The “Chicken Creek Café” which is a “neat looking” building and an interesting stop) then again at the North Pole, before our fairly late evening arrival in not-so-Fairbanks.

The only sights of interest today: the 5th and 6th remains after the big forest fires earlier this year, and at a gold shop, a 5 pound gold nugget. Hotel: Bridgewater Hotel (MF) (2 nights) (same as in ’07, nice enough but almost impossible to adjust the a/c.)

Day 9, Thursday, Aug 20, Fairbanks
(Bah, humbug! The poorest full day of the trip!) I didn’t even bother to take my camera. We have to leave at 8AM to get to our first activity: Board the STERNWHEELER RIVERBOAT Discovery III (for the 5th time; now 3 on the “III”, 1 on the “I”, and 1 on the “II.”), for a leisurely (boring?) cruise on the Chena and Tanana Rivers. Listen as the ship’s guides discuss the wildlife, history, geology, and customs of the region. Ho-Hum!! At least they did have some donuts out for us to raid.

Then our afternoon excursion is a very short, very-slight-seeing “tour” featuring the highlights of not-so-Fairbanks (what highlights?) which means ONLY a very re-re-re-re-repeat visit to the Trans-Alaska Pipeline but not the great University of Alaska Museum of the North! GRITCH, GRITCH. Next we have to find somewhere to get an overpriced lunch before we go back to our prison cells. Actually the prices in Alaska seem to be only a bit over half what we had to pay when in Canada/Yukon. I’m sure that they will be back to astronomical when we get to Denali.

At least my sinuses problem is better – now that I’m out of what I’m allergic to: Canada. But my back is in “horrible” shape after sleeping on that hotel bed – and I have to do it again tonight.

The optional flightseeing trip (below) sounds good, but I did a similar trip to Fort Yukon on the Cruise West trip in 2003, and then in 2012 on a Road Scholar trip, we went up to Barrow and spent a night there, so I’ll pass on this option (and it is very expensive).

Arctic Circle Air Adventure Fly above the Arctic! This thrilling tour allows a guest to experience the Brooks Range, cross the Arctic Circle and fly the wilderness airways of Alaska's Arctic. This fully narrated adventure also includes a visit to the community of Wiseman, views of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline and mighty Yukon River. $454 NO

Fairbanks Salmon Bake Enjoy an all-you-can-eat Alaskan style meal as you dine on fire-grilled salmon, roasted prime rib, and cod direct from Alaska's icy waters. Served with Salad bar, Dessert, & Beverages. Catch the Golden Heart Revue show in the Palace Theater for an additional cost. If, as on other times, the seats are benches and not chairs, I'll definitely pass on this. $35 Very doubtful

Day 10, Friday, Aug 21, Fairbanks - Denali NP
(Very mixed reviews today.) For dinner last night I went to a joint next door to the hotel that advertised it served “The Northernmost AUTHENTIC SOUTHERN BBQ.” False advertising. Southern Alaska maybe but not Deep South. Yuck!

We start early: bags out at 6:30 and depart at 7:30 for HORRORS!!! Rather than taking the nice bus (much preferred), we are forced to board the world-INfamous ALASKA RAILROAD for a really miserable journey through untamed “wilderness”. Sit back and see mostly very boring scenery through dirty wide windows. I've suffered through this twice before. The ride (8:15 - 12:15) finally ends in DENALI NATIONAL PARK if the train doesn’t break down before it gets there.

Actually we lucked out and Cheapmos(t) booked us on a car from an independent company that is independently added to the train – it’s not one of the miserable Alaska Rail cars. This one is one of the doomed roof cars with lots of viewing of a very hot sun. The car apparently isn’t air conditioned and the “”doomed” applies to us, not the car. We get roasted. At least the seats are comfortable and there is plenty of space. But we are the last car on the train and frequently experience “fish-tailing.” As expected, the “wilderness” is mostly just the track-side foliage. We do get to Denali on time and can exchange our oven for frosty ears. Lunch is on our own at the Visitor Center across from the Rail Terminal. Hint: never order their petrified chicken tenders. I ate one and threw the others in the garbage. Pricing note: at a Subway in the lower 48, a good 12” sub costs about $6-8; at the Subway here a 6” costs about $12-13. Specials are higher.

Our cabins/prison cells are ready at 2:30. Nice at first glance but the cabins are spaced out with plenty of ear-freezing walking between cabins to, if nothing else, get out to where we will have to catch the bus tomorrow morning. At least the wi-fi works and the cell is decent. Maybe the bed will be decent also – better than Fairbanks, anyway.

North America's highest peak, 20,320-foot Mount McKinley (in the rare case that we can see it) dominates the park's 6 million acres of glacial streams, river valleys, and multicolored tundra. The afternoon is free for exploring (looking for food) on our own at the Visitor Center then transfer to the hotel for an empty afternoon. The optional evening dining/entertainment is NOT recommended by the Tour Director. Hotel: Denali Bluffs Hotel (F) (2 nights)

Mountaineer Grill and Bar: Propoganda: “There is nothing better than taking in spectacular views while letting it all go with a delicious BBQ platter, cold beer, friendly service and good friends. Our tender and flavorful BBQ entrees (should I dare even believe BBQ?) are a popular alternative and the Mountaineer Grill & Bar is widely regarded as having the best (and only?) food in the area. I’ll stick with “munchies.” (RANKED #24 of the 28 restaurants in Denali Park)

More propaganda: “There is also the Perky Moose Espresso in the main lodge which is another way to start your day before heading out on your morning adventures. The Perky Moose offers a variety of beverages, coffees, teas, and other hot and cold drinks. You can also choose from an assortment of salads, sandwiches and savory soups.” I’ll check it out since our included “box lunch/snack” on the tour tomorrow is historically minimal.

Day 11, Saturday, Aug 22, Denali National Park
I’m glad I don’t have any optional excursions book for last evening – starting about 5:30, fairly heavy rain for several hours. It sounded very nice hitting on the roof, but would have been “awful” to have been out in it. And it is still raining this morning as we get ready to board the cattle wagon for our rough ride into never-never-land.

Highlight Day! This is my 5th visit to Denali. I’ll take advantage of the optional wildlife tour to seek out grizzly bears, caribou, moose, and Dall sheep. This is the last (and only fully) enjoyable day of the trip. Another early start: we have to catch the bus at 8:20 – in the rain. The bus was still basically a “school bus” style but more comfortable and less cramped than I had expected. The weather stayed a light-medium drizzle all day except when we got to the higher elevation and the drizzle turned into snow – to go along with the snow left from last night’s storm. It was COLD and windy all day; in fact I had to keep my sweater, coat, and knit cap on all day even on the bus. We had a great driver-guide, a full 8+ hour excursion going 63 miles into the park, and despite the weather, even managed to see a few wild critters.

The BOX “lunch” turned out to be ONLY a SNACK box (crackers, cookies, and water) which is much less than on other trips. I’m glad I had some extra “munchies” along.

Not as bad as it could have been, but still somewhat disappointing. Very few pictures and those are poor due to the weather. I wouldn’t have skipped it. The only actual disappointment: due to the weather we never had even a glimpse of Denali. Still a light drizzle when we get back to the hotel.

Optional: Tundra Wilderness Tour. Go deep into Denali National Park and search for moose, bear, wolves, caribou and Dall sheep amongst a spectacular backdrop of valleys and mountains. This 6-8 hour tour is led by experienced driver guides, who provide narrative on the many critters that call Denali home. With tales of Mt. McKinley and breathtaking
photographic opportunities but we may or may not be able to see the mountain. I've done this before - it can be really GREAT! This is one tour to be sure and reserve early! - but the Cheapmos(t) web site won't do advance bookings for this! Price includes a box meal (false) and beverage. $161 YES

Day 12, Sunday, Aug 23, Denali - Anchorage - Depart
(Hitting bottom today to extreme boredom) Continue your exploration of DENALI NATIONAL PARK as yAgain, the people who went out for evening excursions last night had to contend with cold, wet, windy conditions. I’m glad I stayed in and used the time to repack.

Hitting bottom today to almost total boredom due to having such a LONG drive today (a bit over 300 miles) so we have to start early: Up at 5, bags out at 6 and depart at 7. It is fruitless to continue our exploration of DENALI NATIONAL PARK in this weather as we head south toward Anchorage. We DON’T stop along the way for a visit to the IDITAROD VISITOR CENTER, home of the great dogsled race. Despite it being listed in the schedule, we just didn’t stop. Lunch is in Wasilla at a shopping center with a large selection of fast-food-joints.

When we get to Anchorage, first we do 3 hotel stops (cruise passengers, stay-over guests at that awful Ramada, and a few “strays” near the airport. That should have been easy except that at the second stop, some of the bell-boys grabbed some luggage they weren’t supposed to touch and took them into the hotel. This wasn’t noticed until the 3rd stop so we had to go from the airport all the way back into town. The trip ends when we are abandoned at the Anchorage Airport. Actually it ended for me yesterday when we got back from the Denali Excursion.

We are told not to book flights before 4PM so I miss a great flight which leaves at 3:35. I’ve been grumbling about this but fortunately I didn’t book the 3:35 flight since due to the hotel hassles I wouldn’t have gotten to the hotel in time. The flight I originally planned for has been changed so I have to take a much later and much longer pair of flights. The flight isn’t until midnight so I have an awful 8-10 hours to waste. United Ripoff: No meals are scheduled on the flight – just “refreshments” even though I purchased upgraded seats, so I’ll have to be sure to get a good (expensive) dinner at the airport. At least the weather cooperates.

United UA 1104

Anchorage - Denver

11:56P - 7:06A

5:10

1:29

Day 13, Monday, Aug 24, Arrive Home
After a long, tiring, hungry night flight, finally arrive in Denver. At least it is a fairly safe layover time. The reservation for the next flight lists “breakfast” and it turned out very good – but my seat was extremely uncomfortable – the head-rest wouldn’t raise so I would have had it gouging my back for the full flight except that I never leaned back – just had to lean forward the whole time.

United UA 598

Denver - Houston

8:35A - 11:57

2:22

9:01

With a noon arrival, I didn’t get home until 1:30 giving time to pick up my held-mail.

I'm still wishing that I could find a nice, affordable small boat cruise through the Inside Passage to a) see the great scenery; b) visit the interesting small towns, and c) again meet some of "my old friends" who live in those towns. I've booked the Road Scholar/Alaskan Dream cruise for next June and can only hope....