Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!

Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

What's up guys? The car in question here is mine. I've been sorta unmotivated lately so I appreciate Cameron, who is actually my competition (says a lot about him), for trying to figure out what went wrong here.

We took the car down for end of season, my car hasn't seen a lot of track but it has REALLY gotten beaten on for the small amount of miles. The car was running and had just seen a high mph pull a few days earlier. To all of our absolute complete surprise we found two bent rods. The one cam posted and you'd really have to hold it in your hand to see it in the other rod.

A question that comes to me is when could the rod have folded and how long could it have lasted? Why would the rod fold before any real crushing of the bearing?

I appreciate the good discussion in here about the amount of timing in the tune. We are hoping to have her fired up here in a week.

There was some interesting discussion with Carrillo about this issue. We just received a new design that they had already been working on. I am told they knew exactly how the rod folded when we came to them.

This is the only image I've got of the new design. You can see some thicker ribs but it's also thicker on the rod as well

What's up guys? The car in question here is mine. I've been sorta unmotivated lately so I appreciate Cameron, who is actually my competition (says a lot about him), for trying to figure out what went wrong here.

We took the car down for end of season, my car hasn't seen a lot of track but it has REALLY gotten beaten on for the small amount of miles. The car was running and had just seen a high mph pull a few days earlier. To all of our absolute complete surprise we found two bent rods. The one cam posted and you'd really have to hold it in your hand to see it in the other rod.

A question that comes to me is when could the rod have folded and how long could it have lasted? Why would the rod fold before any real crushing of the bearing?

I appreciate the good discussion in here about the amount of timing in the tune. We are hoping to have her fired up here in a week.

There was some interesting discussion with Carrillo about this issue. We just received a new design that they had already been working on. I am told they knew exactly how the rod folded when we came to them.

This is the only image I've got of the new design. You can see some thicker ribs but it's also thicker on the rod as well

I had an Element H-beam snap clean in two on me last year after making six 0-140mph passes on a pretty aggressive map. The motor had just over 9000 miles on it, and was putting down 511whp/470wtq in Airboy's spreadsheet on this map.

After speaking with some people who also had recently lost some H-beams in similar ways (Eagle and Manley rods to be specific), it appeared that essentially for everyone for the most part it was a combo of pushing the rods too close to their rated chp as well as pushing the tune/engine too close to it's limit in terms of cylinder pressures.

Since these 2011-2012 incidents occurred, quite a few companies have released new or revised versions of their H-beams that are rated much higher than previous ones were. I have not had the opportunity to really speak with or compare the differences between the older H-beams vs. the newer ones, but if I had to guess, I would think it would be similar to the findings that you see in your picture posted above. Just a much better/thicker construction all around.

IIRC it was making 730/670 with a GTX3582 and some correction on a Dynojet.

The rods amalgrover was referring to, the Eagles and Manleys were most likely Chinese made junk. These are the good Carrillo h beam rods, still flawed but its obvious the manufacturers have to overbuild their stuff to accommodate contingencies for poor tuning like the case here. How much strength is enough?

I am using some of Doms +2mm custom super h beams that he has made by Saenz. I believe they are rated for 1000-1200 CHP, I don't remember exactly. They won't see anything close to that in my car. If H beams rods like mine and the Carrillo pro's are not enough then you should use the Pauters or Manly I beams but they are heavier by quite a bit!

IIRC it was making 730/670 with a GTX3582 and some correction on a Dynojet.

The rods amalgrover was referring to, the Eagles and Manleys were most likely Chinese made junk. These are the good Carrillo h beam rods, still flawed but its obvious the manufacturers have to overbuild their stuff to accommodate contingencies for poor tuning like the case here. How much strength is enough?

I am using some of Doms +2mm custom super h beams that he has made by Saenz. I believe they are rated for 1000-1200 CHP, I don't remember exactly. They won't see anything close to that in my car. If H beams rods like mine and the Carrillo pro's are not enough then you should use the Pauters or Manly I beams but they are heavier by quite a bit!

I understand that, my worry is that new H-tuff seem to similar to those carrillo rods

Little beat but not horrible. Worse than I would expect from under 3k miles.
Only map he has. This is from the old e70 tune that spun a rod bearing and bent all the wrist pins at around 4k miles.
Timing was increased for the e98 tune but I don't know by how much. The aem has been sent back to get checked.

Idle timing is strange

Important to note that this is a hybrid engine with oem gasket and Cnc head chambers. Not sure of cr.

I know Juan, I am surprised that the Carrillo H pro beams wrinkled like that! I guess its a testament to the excessive amount of timing that was run in the tune. Like what Dom said from the get go!

I have not looked at the Manley H-Tuff rods. Where are they made? Are you going to tear down your motor to upgrade the rods now?

I have run tons of timing 30* at redline with a FP green probably making 470whp dynojet with my 07 WRX STi rods and I never had any issues with 60k miles on the rods.

No I am not taking my motor apart, if is not broke don't fix it . But I am building a spare motor better than my current motor . I have wiseco pistons, a stock crank and a case so far and I am planning on buying either BC I-beam rods or the H-Tuff soon. I want to build this motor myself.

I have run tons of timing 30* at redline with a FP green probably making 470whp dynojet with my 07 WRX STi rods and I never had any issues with 60k miles on the rods.

No I am not taking my motor apart, if is not broke don't fix it . But I am building a spare motor better than my current motor . I have wiseco pistons, a stock crank and a case so far and I am planning on buying either BC I-beam rods or the H-Tuff soon. I want to build this motor myself.

Redline is one thing but peak tq is another. Cylinder pressure is highest at peak tq.

its common knowledge the tune is very important. you can break turbo tuff rods or any other engine related part if the tune is whack....

juan your tune was/is aggressive but its a proper tune not copy and paste. the copy and paste thing happens alot now a days.

2 years ago went to japtrix built motor 35r blah blah blah-327 whp on their dyno at 20 psi.
month later doug tuned at top speed-450 at 25 psi lol. much faster, and smoother feeling car to boot. and richer afr from doug!