3008 posts

3008 posts

cbigsup said..Waterproof contact cement. Useless info as US brands and Ozzie brands completely different. The kind that you apply to both surfaces let dry and then stick is the one.

I would avoid them. They are solvent-based glues, that use a potent solvent to dissolve the surfaces that they are applied to in order to stick to them. This is why you have to apply them to both surfaces and let them dry. They will thus damage (slightly) the board surface.

Modern glues like the MS Polymers (an evolution of the polyurethane glues like the gorilla glue) are much better, as they are not solvent based, but polymerize via the air humidity. They can be used on wet surfaces, and some variants can even be used to glue under water. Also since you can apply them to only one surface (the pad) you do not need to bother spreading them on the board into the exact position where the pad will sit, and you can also reposition them for some minutes, contact cement does not tolerate any error. Plus they stay flexible...

I used a lot of contact cements decades ago, but it is medieval compared to MS Polymer.

3008 posts

3008 posts

23 Jan 2019 5:43PM

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micksmith said..You haven't recently though have you, I'm saying it may be in recent times ie; this particular batch/style of grip.And you wouldn't know unless of course you're involved in the company.

Disclaimer: I am a Gong ambassador, so you could say that it is the opposite: I am involved with a competitor to OAM :-)

Seriously, I do not see any pad brand going to an inferior glue, the cost saving would be negligible. Try to buy the cheapest tail pads on the market, their glue is still excellent. Especially since OAM pads are not cheap. Most probably it was badly applied, a lot of things can go wrong and sticking a pad is typically something you tend to leave to juniors or trainees.

VIC

1275 posts

VIC, 1275 posts

25 Jan 2019 6:30AM

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colas said..

micksmith said..You haven't recently though have you, I'm saying it may be in recent times ie; this particular batch/style of grip.And you wouldn't know unless of course you're involved in the company.

Disclaimer: I am a Gong ambassador, so you could say that it is the opposite: I am involved with a competitor to OAM :-)

Seriously, I do not see any pad brand going to an inferior glue, the cost saving would be negligible. Try to buy the cheapest tail pads on the market, their glue is still excellent. Especially since OAM pads are not cheap. Most probably it was badly applied, a lot of things can go wrong and sticking a pad is typically something you tend to leave to juniors or trainees.

frosty1962, do you know if your pad was put in a cold, rainy period?

That's funny, you said in another thread and I quote, "I guess that depends on the quality of the glue"

3008 posts

3008 posts

25 Jan 2019 5:19PM

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micksmith said..That's funny, you said in another thread and I quote, "I guess that depends on the quality of the glue"

Thread: deck grip + adhesive tape

It was a different thread, about using generic EVA pads not specifically designed for surfboards. I used them on my prone surfboards to go waxless (it was much, much cheaper than surfing pads), and their glue was not 3M. That a very different case than big-name SUP pads.

313 posts

313 posts

677 posts

677 posts

cbigsup said..Waterproof contact cement. Useless info as US brands and Ozzie brands completely different. The kind that you apply to both surfaces let dry and then stick is the one.

I would avoid them. They are solvent-based glues, that use a potent solvent to dissolve the surfaces that they are applied to in order to stick to them. This is why you have to apply them to both surfaces and let them dry. They will thus damage (slightly) the board surface.

Modern glues like the MS Polymers (an evolution of the polyurethane glues like the gorilla glue) are much better, as they are not solvent based, but polymerize via the air humidity. They can be used on wet surfaces, and some variants can even be used to glue under water. Also since you can apply them to only one surface (the pad) you do not need to bother spreading them on the board into the exact position where the pad will sit, and you can also reposition them for some minutes, contact cement does not tolerate any error. Plus they stay flexible...

I used a lot of contact cements decades ago, but it is medieval compared to MS Polymer.

3008 posts

3008 posts

TimKay said..What brand of silyl modified polyethers would you suggest

I use the mainstream clear ones, the ones available easily in your local shops, not the ones with additives for special uses.

Try to get them in small quantities, and close them without leaving room for air: ambient moisture trapped in the tube will make them cure. But if they do, the cured part is waterproof so the curing will stop at the surface, so you can still use the rest of the tube by piercing it and taping over it. This is why they must be used in thin layers, thick layers will not cure properly.

For instance I used UHU Max Repair, Pattex 100%, SADER Mega Strong... they work all perfectly for re-glueing pads.