I am in the process of winterizing my '99 MC PS 205V. This boat is new to me, and I'm still new to boating in general, so I welcome any advice you guys might have.

What I've done so far:

1. Filled the gas tank with ethanol free (the only kind I run, anyway, since I've heard ethanol is bad for boats), and added fuel stabilizer.
2. Ran the engine for about 15 minutes to get the stabilizer mixed in.
3. Replaced the impeller. Old one was in pretty good condition (didn't know that until I took it out, which was no easy task), but having a new one gives me peace of mind, and now I know how to replace it if it ever goes bad.
4. Using a fake-a-lake device, along with various hoses/adapters/etc., I hooked up my tsunami pump (the kind used to fill fat sacs with) to the fake-a-lake, dropped the pump into a bucket of antifreeze, and ran antifreeze through the engine. I'm pretty stoked that worked. It wasn't easy. Took some trial and error, but I was careful not to let it run without water or antifreeze getting through. If the pump slowed down, I shut off the engine and connected a water hose and ran water through for a while. Once the antifreeze got a good flow from the tsunami pump, through the fake-a-lake, and into the water intake, it worked really well and I ran about 7 or 8 gallons through. Turns out that was more than I needed, since I ended up with lots of it in the bucket I set up behind the boat to catch the water.
5. Disconnected the battery, and hooked it up to a battery tender.

That's all I've done so far. I know I need to change the oil, and perhaps the transmission fluid. But I'd rather do that in the spring so I have fresh oil to start the season. It doesn't make sense to me to change it now and have it just sit all winter. However, if there is a reason I should do it now, of course I'm open to it.

So, should I leave the antifreeze in, or drain it? If I drain, what is the best method? I don't know all the plugs/valves/petcocks/knock sensors I need to disconnect. In the future, I'll probably have it winterized professionally, but I'd like to do it myself this time, so at least I'm familiar with what goes on during the process. I figure the best way to learn about my new toy is to work on it myself whenever possible.

I would remove the new impeller.When the impeller stays in there all winter the vains will take a "set" and might crack on start up in the spring.
Put the impeller back in next spring.
Everything else looks good.

JRW160, good call. I remember seeing that on another checklist, but I forgot to do it. I left the can of fogging oil sitting in my boat.

TOO-TALL, yeah, I may put the old one back in for the winter, then put the new one in next season. I saw someone's checklist where they just leave it out, but I'm too scared that I'll forget to put it back (see above paragraph).

TOO-TALL, yeah, I may put the old one back in for the winter, then put the new one in next season. I saw someone's checklist where they just leave it out, but I'm too scared that I'll forget to put it back.

Put it in a ziplock bag and sit it in the drivers seat or zip tie it to the key...

I would remove the new impeller.When the impeller stays in there all winter the vains will take a "set" and might crack on start up in the spring.
Put the impeller back in next spring.
Everything else looks good.

^^ +1 - but sell the fake a lake to Malibu owner .. and make one of these...attach to raw water intake...you get a constant visual on fluid - antifreeze level... $10 bucks.. watch this video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHR9bbPbwmM - Can'tRepeat made the video.. the bucket is $10. The tube of plastic epoxy(polyester resin) was more than the bucket and PVC fitting.

Definitely pull the impeller if new... and spray some 303 on it and put it in a plastic bag to keep it in good shape for next season. I wet block with RV -50 antifreeze so I leave old impeller in. New impeller and gasket in packaging along with new gasket. I like the corrosion inhibitors to keep the inside of the exhaust manifolds, risers and block from oxidizing more...

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__________________...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

Last edited by mikeg205; 11-12-2012 at 09:18 AM.
Reason: cuz I fergot sumfin'

Thanks for the feedback so far. I'm starting to second guess my work. Specifically I'm wondering if the antifreeze got everywhere it needed to go. I probably only ran the engine for 5 minutes on water hose before I switched to antifreeze. Is 5 min long enough to let the thermostat open up? It's being stored in a detached garage in N. Alabama where our winters aren't that severe, but will see several nights and perhaps a few days of freezing temps.

Thanks for the feedback so far. I'm starting to second guess my work. Specifically I'm wondering if the antifreeze got everywhere it needed to go. I probably only ran the engine for 5 minutes on water hose before I switched to antifreeze. Is 5 min long enough to let the thermostat open up? It's being stored in a detached garage in N. Alabama where our winters aren't that severe, but will see several nights and perhaps a few days of freezing temps.

If I was second guessing myself I would do it again especially if you are storing in a detached garage - good reason to do something with the boat then celebrate a job well done with your favorite beverage

..did you see the temp gauge hit 160? I let mine run until 160 for a while then introduce antifreeze.

For the block you could just drain it and store it dry. once it drains pull the impeller and hoses. There's a drain plug on transmission oil cooler - and I also used spin motor a couple of time (safety lanyard off) to get any water out of re-circulation pump.

I switched this year to wet store because of anti corrosion additives in the RV antifreeze.

__________________...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....