I don’t know what your earring situation is like, but mine was pretty sad until I took action. Today, I am sharing how I turned a piece of metal shelving from Habitat Restore into a cool earring display, with a little spray paint and some reclaimed wood.

Here is the wire shelving section I used. Pictured is black chalkboard spray paint I used initially. I decided I didn’t love it, and went with metallic silver Krylon spray paint instead. Just spray evenly over a protected surface, in a space with good ventilation (preferably outdoors). Let dry completely. I let mine sit overnight.

Next it was time to build the frame. I used old wood that I found in the free section on Craiglist. This is by far my favorite source for free wood. My second favorite way to acquire free wood is to drive around alleyways near businesses or behind strip malls, looking for piles of pallets. I always make sure I ask, and most people are happy to have help getting rid of them. I have only been told “no” once.

Mark the wood with a pencil, using the shelf for measuring. Cut to 45° angles on each end of the wood, going in opposite directions. Cut two for the sides and two for the top and bottom. I used Kreg Jig pocket holes to connect the pieces at each corner to form a frame. For more details, see my post on How to Use a Kreg Jig and DIY Barnwood Frames.

Want a beautiful rustic headboard that’s easy to build and easy on the wallet? Stick with this plan and you can have one in about 4 hours (if you have already prepared the “aging solution”… more on that later). The one we built was made to fit a queen size bed frame but this can easily be modified to fit your particular bed size. Let’s do this!

Step 1.

Decide on the size. As I said earlier we made ours to fit a standard queen size frame. The distance between the attachment points on a frame that size is about 60 inches. So we made the over- all width to be about 3 inches wider than that. This allows the two main upright legs to fall right on the frame so it can be attached with a couple screws.

The height of the headboard is also a personal preference. We chose to make ours about 56 tall. I wouldn’t go any shorter than 40 and not too much taller unless you have an unusually tall mattress and box springs. Otherwise it looks a little overwhelming.

Step 2.

Obtain the lumber. We found some old weathered barn and scrap wood on the free craigslist site. The following boards were used for this particular size head board. The dimensions are approximate because reclaimed stuff comes in various sizes. So long as you keep the main leg rails and the back boards straight and the same thickness, you can use whatever you like.

If you end up buying these form a big box place pick out the gnarly, rough looking ones that nobody else wants. They are super cheap (less than a buck and a half a board) and the take up the “aging solution” very well.

Aging solution: To put a darker, weathered look on any new wood that you may have to use in the construction of your piece, here is a kind of a neat and cheap way to do it.

In a plastic bucket mix 1 part water and 1 part white vinegar. Place three or four steel wool pads that you have teased apart a little bit into wispy strands. Make sure the steel wool is submerged in the solution. Put the lid on the bucket and allow it to stand for about 4 days.

When its ready to go, use a brush or a cheap roller to apply it to the boards that you want or age or darken. When you first put it on it will want to “bead” up on the wood. After a few seconds the grain opens and it pulls in to the wood and it evens out to a nice “wet” look. The only tip I have is to make sure you don’t leave a big drop or a splash on the surface. Make sure you roll or brush it out so that it the entire surface is evenly wet. It’s a fooler because it’s like painting with water. You don’t think it’s doing anything at first except wetting the surface…but in about an hour you will see what happens. Try some on a practice piece to get comfortable with how to apply it and how many coats. The more you do it the darker it gets. Less is more. Do this to all of your boards before you cut and assemble.

Saw Cuts: The only cut that you have to make that is just a little out of the ordinary cross-cut style is the rabbit cut on the leg rails. Don’t worry they are simple too, but it does require a table saw or a radial arm saw if you want to do it right. I used our table saw so that’s what I’ll explain.

After you have cross cut the 2×4 leg rails to the right length of 56 inches, you are going to perform a rip –cut down the center of the 2×4 with the blade depth set such that it will only go half way through the thickness of the board. So that means the fence is set to 1.75 inches from the blade and the depth of the blade is set to ¾ inches. Rip the entire length of the board. Then do the other leg the same way. Now reset the fence to ¾ inch from blade and the blade depth to 1.75 inches. Fli the board 90 degrees and rip the length of the board. Repeat with other board.

What you should have now is two boards that have a rabbit or lap that runs the entire length. This is where the back boards will sit and what creates the finished hidden edge when you look from the front of the headboard.

Next cut your back boards to exactly the same length. They can be whatever length your bed frame demands, and they don’t have to be exactly 60 inches for example, but it is critical that they are all the same. So cut the 5 wide backboards and the three narrower backboards all the same.

Assembly:

Lay the leg rails down on a flat surface ( garage floor?) and then lay the back boards face down between them so they span from one rail horizontally to the other. We decided to run a couple of the narrower ones in between the wider ones to give it a little less uniform look . You can do whatever. If you actually prepared 5 wide and three narrow boards for this you have plenty run down below where a typical mattress and box spring will sit. The idea is that you don’t see a huge gap above the mattress for the pillow to fall down in and that just looks silly. So measure your bed from floor to top of mattress and make sure you attach enough back boards to go all the way down past where the top of the mattress will be.

After you have laid the boards out and checked them for length and fit , you can actually fasten them into the leg rails. There are a number of ways to do this, we like to use Kreg jig screws. They provide secure, quick fastening. We put two holes in the end of each of the back boards to keep the board from cupping. We also used glue under the edge for added measure. For the top board, we used the Kreg jig to drill pocket holes facing up for the attachment of the top “shelf” board.

After you have secured all of the back boards the headboard assembly is pretty much complete. It should be strong enough to stand it up and measure the final length of the top finish piece and the trim piece. We like to run the top “mantel” all the way from the outside leg rail edge to the other. Flush. The width of this top board will dictate the over hang you achieve. You can let it hang over the back and the front if you like. We allowed ¾ inch over hang in the back.

Secure it to the top board using the kreg pocket holes you drilled along the top edge.

The ¾ inch over hang of the top mantel board in the back allowed us to run a ¾ inch board down the back (perpendicular) to each of the horizontal back boards. We then screwed it into each of the back boards from the back so none of it shows (see photo above). This kept all of the horizontal boards even when viewed from the front and will tie them together as on unit so they don’t warp or bend apart from one another and create an unsightly gap over time.

The last piece to put on is the trim board that goes between the legrails and right up under the top mantel piece. This just finished the look of the whole thing in my opinion. Attach with small finish nails and glue.

Final finish

Touch up anything you need to with some more aging solution and then seal with your favorite wax or varnish!

This post is brought to you by Plaid and Blueprint Social. All opinions are my own.

It is the most wonderful time of the year, and that means hands everywhere are covered in glitter and Mod Podge. Mine are no different. Yours shouldn’t be either. I am here to help you out with that by sharing how to make these beautiful graphic holiday ornaments in just a few simple steps. Personalize them as great gifts and keepsake ornaments for your friends and loved ones that will be cherished for years to come. But wait, there is more…other awesome things about this project are the fact that it is super inexpensive to create, and features Plaid’s new Mod Podge Pearl formula!

Tear letter out by hand to leave feathered borders (as opposed to cutting with scissors).

Paint entire ornament with a layer of pearl Mod Podge, place letter, then paint a layer of Mod Podge over the top of the tissue paper. Take care not to rip the monogram.Hang ornament to air dry. Add another coat of pearl finish Mod Podge and let dry.

That’s it! Do you love the pearl finish? Of course you do. It is elegant with an aged feel. It looks great with the glittery gold and silver metallic finishes too.

Not only are these earrings easy to make and cute, they are upcycled from some super meaningful fabric. I created them from one of my beloved grandpa’s many handkerchiefs, soon after his passing. Whipping the cloth out of his pocket, he gently wiped away the tears from his loved ones eyes, and eliminated runny noses with joy. A single hanky is big enough to fashion several pairs, so the women in our family all have a wearable reminder of the best man to ever live (yes, I am biased, but also, he was the best)! Today I am going to show you how to make your own version in just a few simple steps. They would be cute fashioned from old jeans, your favorite shirt, your grandpa’s hanky, or just about any fabric you want. Let’s do this!!

INSTRUCTIONS:

Spray fabric if desired. I went with a fall color palate using the spray inks shown. Let air dry for a couple of hours, then set by drying in machine on high heat for 5 minutes.

Make a square template from card stock about 1.5 inches wide and long (yeah, a square).

Cut several squares from your fabric of choice using the template as a guide. I cut some from tulle in addition to the hanky.

Hole punch center of template with Crop-a-Dile

Hole punch center of fabric using template as a guide. You can hole punch several squares at the same time, depending on the thickness of your fabric.Make a sandwich from fabric squares with washer in the middle. I used 3-4 squares on each side of the washer. The purpose of the washer is stability and weight.Use Crop-a-Dile to set eyelet.

Insert chain about 3 inches long through eyelet.

Make a loop from the chain, using ear wire to join both the chain loops on each end. You are finished!

I love having something so reminiscient of my grandfather to wear, not that I need it to remember him. He is everywhere and I am blessed! I love you, Pa. And now the flood gates are open.

Here is to grandfathers everywhere! May you cherish every moment with yours.

I went to CHA 2014 in Anaheim California, where epoxy clay jewelry was all the rage. I didn’t see what was so great about it, or why I would use it instead of polymer clay. It took me almost two years to get on board. Now I am a full fledge fanatic. The stuff is wonderful for embedding crystals and other small embellishments, since it is a strong adhesive. No glue is necessary, nor does it need to go in the oven. Once you mix the two parts, it starts to set and cures on its own without heat. Today I am sharing these gorgeous, blingy earring and pendant sets! My friend created hers and has zero experience with jewelry making or clay of any kind. They came out beautifully, proving no prior knowledge is necessary!

DIY patriotic jewelry is a tradition here at Saved By Love Creations! For this pair I combined my newest obsession – epoxy clay – with metal filigree, to create these lovely, star spangled pieces. This project is super easy, so lets get started.

Instructions:

Press Clay into silicone mold, making sure to push it down into the corners of the stars. Smooth out back of star with wet fingertip to avoid fingerprints.

Let the stars cure overnight, and paint as desired with acrylic paint. I left the blue stars as is, and for the red, I used the Vintaj Patina in red. I antiqued all of the stars with antiquing medium, applying it with a paintbrush and wiping it away with a paper towel while still wet.

Color the Filigree

Use red and white embossing powder to coat the filigree as shown in this Vintaj video:

Adhere stars to colored filigree with a small amount of epoxy clay or strong jewelry glue.

I have been out of the creative groove, dealing with some life stuff, and I can’t tell you how happy I am to be sharing with you again! Punctuating the blog break is a super cheap, easy sea glass hanging votive holder tutorial. Why do you care? I will give you three reasons. First, they are awesome… duh. Second, they are a full blown dollar store craft, yay! Finally, I knocked them off from Pottery Barn’s Sea Glass Hanging Votives for a fraction of their cost. Mine… $3 plus stuff I had on hand. Theirs… $60 and no bragging rights. You can put that $57 you saved towards a backyard soiree, complete with stylish ambiance handmade by you!

*If your containers are spherical without a neck like one of mine pictured, you will need to drill holes in the glass, which I showed you here: How to Drill Holes in Glass

*In this case, or if your glass holders are too large for the wire hangers you can purchase, or if you want to save $, you will need to make your own wire hangers (I cover that below). For that you will need:

Pliers

Wire Cutters or Metal Snips if your hanger is to hard to cut with wire cutters

Wire clothes hanger or craft wire 16 gauge

Instructions:

PAINTING THE GLASS

Clean the surface of the glass with rubbing alcohol and a lint free towel or paper towel. Make sure to wear gloves. You want to get rid of fingerprints and refrain from touching the glass with your bear hands after cleaning it. The glass paint needs a clean, oil free surface for maximum adherence.

For this lantern, I mixed frosty white and glossy aqua. Apply several thin layers with a soft brush or cosmetic sponge, allowing 30 minutes of dry time between layers. I did two coats with the above mixture, then I used frosty “Surf” on the bottom third for layer three. I went over the entire piece with frosty white to blend and create the ombre effect.

*With glass paint, the key is patience and faith. It will look like crap until it dries…

I told you. Here I used a soft brush, then remembered why I prefer cosmetic sponges with glass paint. I switched to the sponge for the rest of the layers. It looks awful regardless of what you use, until it dries and evens.

Once you have painted your glass holders, let them dry overnight before moving on to the next step:

ADDING THE WIRE HANGER

For all of my hanging votive holders except for the spherical one and the white one, I used these purchased wire jar hangers. They are super handy and I had them in my stash.

As I said in the supplies section, you can make your own version to save cash, if your holder is too big for the mason jar version, or if you have a container with no “lip” to rest on the wire.

This holder was to large in diameter for the mason jar sized wire hanger. To start, I cut the top off the hanger with metal snips. You can use craft wire and wire cutters just as well. The hanger wire was super hard and difficult to cut and shape, but I couldn’t resist the repurpose. Next time I will go with a thicker gauge craft wire.

Begin at one of the two “V” angles.

Form a loop by pulling the right wire under the left wire as pictured.

Bend the left wire just under the loop, and pull the under and back over it above the bend you made (see photo).

Use your glass to shape the wire. When you get to the side opposite your loop, trim the tails of your wire leaving 1.5 inches extra on one tail and about 0.5 inches on the other.

In retrospect, I should have made the wire for this before painting it, as I nicked it in a couple of places. Don’t make my same mistake. It’s easily avoidable.

One the longer tail, bend the wire and wrap the end around a pen or dowel to create a loop as shown.

Bend the other tail so that it sticks up, perpendicular to the wire as shown.

This diagram may help. The perpendicular tail you just made slides over the wire just under the loop from the previous step to secure the hanger around the neck of the container.

Make a handle with a piece of wire by forming a “U” shape with a loop at each end. Leave the handle loops open enough to slide into the neck piece loops.Assemble as pictured and hang!

I love them! These are perfect for wedding receptions and festivities of all kinds. Best of all, they are charming and cheap.

This is the Pottery Barn version. I went a little frostier because I like that look. You could use transparent gloss to achieve the look of the blue PB version pictured.

I must admit that stencils are a part of my everyday life. They are particularly fun to use in mixed media projects and art journaling, but their role in DIY home decor is not to be underestimated. Today’s round-up proves just that with over 50 DIY stencil decor projects you can make. Walls, floors, headboards and more can be made fabulous with a little time, some paint and your favorite stencil! Enjoy.

Don’t let the title scare you. For this collection, no crochet or knit skills are needed. This week’s crafty round-up is all about things to make with yarn. You will find all kinds of kids crafts, home decor, paper crafts and more. Enjoy!

It is time for spring cleaning, and I am here to help you with 50+ awesome DIY storage ideas. You can get organized on a budget with this week’s collection. As always, if we missed your awesome DIY storage tutorial, send us the link or comment after this post. Enjoy!