In Izmit

From the skyscrapers of Dubai to the lush cedars of Lebanon, across the continental divide separating east from west in Istanbul, on to Temple Mount and the Wailing Wall and finally the white sand beaches of Cyprus, Matt Stender, program director of the San Antonio World Affairs Council, will take a 17-day couch-surfing journey, visiting with families in five countries.

After flying in to the Turkish capital of Ankara, I took a four hour scenic bus ride west. The landscape ranged from fields of dusty olive trees to hills, valleys, lakes and forests. The final half-hour of the bus trip hugged the shimmering coast of the Marmara Sea. Stop was the city of Izmit, located one hour east of Istanbul on the Asian side of the country, where I spent less than 24 hours, but experienced a taste of a typical Turkish evening.

The town that one has to examine a map closely to find is home to around 400,000 people and one soccer team. Green and black stripes, which are the team colors, can be seen on large banners overhanging streets, and seem to be the greatest symbolic factor unifying the town. The city hustle and bustle was dying down when I arrived, and transitioning into a more subdued nightlife.

(Photo by Matt Stender)Olive fields

I was in Izmit to stay the night with my World Affairs Council predecessor, Ragan. Ragan is now teaching English and writing a rather definitive blog on Turkish politics. Ragan is one of two native English speakers in town, but hangs out with a great group of friends that are for all intent and purposes fluent.

<!–

(Photo by Matt Stender)Woodlands

–>

We went out for coffee, well I had Turkish coffee, but it seems that chai tea is all the rage in Turkey. The seven of us had a nice conversation over our respective beverages. Most of the acquaintances I made were graduates of the local university. They enjoyed life in Izmit, and relished the fact that Istanbul was only an hour bus ride away.

Being a smaller town, opportunities are limited and I noted what I thought to be a somewhat conservative, or at least traditional, city environment. One girl in the group I went out with had been out of university for many months and had yet to find a job. It was explained to me that even entry level positions relating to one’s field of study are hard to come by.

(Photo by Matt Stender)Team banner over the street

Many students remain unemployed for up to a year before finding a suitable job, or will move to Istanbul in search of better opportunities. As for its conservativeness, the local crew said it was rare to see drunken or rambunctious young people roaming the streets, indicative of the culture despite the numerous bars. I was also told to observe the rarity of individuals walking alone, as roaming the sidewalks in groups is a social norm.

I did not observe a particularly distinctive fashion phenomenon in Izmit. Many guys wore the trendy graphic tee’s that are in vogue throughout the region. The young female fashionistas of the town were somewhat more distinctively Turkish. Loud jewelry and accessories stood out on dresses and skirts worn over tights and Converse tennis shoes. Reminiscent of young Spaniards and other counterculture youth, it was Fashion 101 from a land where East meets West.

(Photo by Matt Stender)Izmit topography

After a beer in a third-story bar, Ragan and I retired to his place where we had a four hour conversation about self-categorization (thoughts left for a future post). We decided that the idiosyncrasies of post-structuralism would have to be left to another night, and wrapped up the night to the chants of the 5 a.m. Mosque call.