Everything you ever wanted to know (probably more) about Banshee
electrical systems! While the specifics listed are based on the
Banshee's electrical system, the principals remain the same and are
similar for other simple 2-stroke motors (as always a service manual
will provide you with specific testing values and is a sound
investment). I'd like to thank all the past and present members
of BansheeHQ.com for all their valuable help and input. I've
tried to cover as many electrical issues as possible, from the most
basic to the more complex, so some of you may want to skip ahead, and
others are welcome to add anything that I've missed or have yet to
learn. There are many pictures so make sure to let the page load.

First off, here's an illustration of a typical Banshee stock electrical
system, later year models will have additional wiring for brake lights:

Next, here are some electrical specifications for an '87 and up Banshee:

Q#1:Why is a functional electrical system important?
A#1:At worst, it flat won't run. Maybe worse, it'll run like crap
intermittantly, often for no apparent reason or without any common
symptoms. However, learning a few basics will help you solve an
electrical problem quicker and save you alot of grief.

Q#2:What are the parts of a Banshee electrical system?
A#2:I'm glad you asked. The basic Banshee electrical system
consists of a stator, stator plate, flywheel, woodruff key on the
crankshaft where the flywheel mounts, pickup coil, CDI, coil, spark
plug wires, spark plugs, voltage regulator, taillight, headlights, key
switch, a handlebar-mounted light & kill switch, and a wiring
harness. Most Banshees (as equipped from the factory) also have
TORS (Throttle OverRide System), and later models (approximately 2003
and later) have brake light systems.

Q#3:What is a "stator"?
A#3:A Stator is at the heart of the electrical system, whose job it is
to provide electricity to the rest of the electrical system. On a
Banshee, the stator is found on the left-hand side of the bottom end of
the motor, by removing the stator cover (black plastic on a stock
motor) and flywheel. The stator itself is a doughnut-shaped
device made up of
several poles on the perimeter wrapped with copper wire, and has four
wires going to the wiring harness. It is held onto the aluminum
stator plate with three screws, and subsequently the stator plate is
secured to the engine's bottom end with three bolts. Here's a pic
of Meat's stock stator and plate (the stator poles are coated
with red liquid electrical tape), after removing the flywheel:

Q#4:How does the stator work?
A#4:The stator produces electricity by converting the kinetic energy of
the rotating flywheel into electrical energy. In English, this
means that as the motor spins, the flywheel connected to the crankshaft
turns the flywheel around the stator and produces electricity.
Similar to an
alternator in a car (or a generator/magneto in other applications), the
stator and spinning flywheel produce current for the ignition and
lighting system. I should note that the ignition and lighting
parts of the stator are separate, while both perform the same job of
producing electricity, the ignition coil of the stator is a different
part of the stator itself than the lighting coil.

Q#5:What's a "stator plate"?
A#5:The stator plate is a cast (stock) or machined (aftermarket)
aluminum plate that the stator and pickup coil bolt onto, and is then
bolted to the bottom end of the motor. Here's a pic of
Superchicken's stock stator, stator plate, and pickup coil:

Q#6:What does the stator plate do?
A#6:The stator plate holds the stator in place on the bottom end of the
motor centered on the crankshaft so the flywheel can spin around the
stator, and also has a mount for the pickup coil. Aftermarket
stator plates either provide slotted mounting holes where the stator
plate
bolts to the motor, or have adjustable pickup coil mounts, allowing the
ignition timing to be advanced or
retarded (see Q#54-56). Here's a pic of Meat's Trinity adjustable
stator plate next to a stock one:

Q#7:So what is a "flywheel"?
A#7:The flywheel spins around the stator to produce electricity, and
also tells the CDI where the pistons are relative to TDC (top dead
center). Also found on left-hand side of the bottom end of the
motor, the flywheel fits over the stator. The flywheel is mounted
to the tapered end of the crankshaft with a 19mm nut and lockwasher,
and is "indexed" to the crankshaft with a woodruff key (see Q#9).
Located on the perimeter of the flywheel are two raised, rectangular
tabs that the pickup coil uses to signal the CDI when to
fire the spark plugs. The inside of the flywheel is magnetic,
which in conjunction with the stator creates a magnetic field and then
electricity. Here's a pic of Meat's flywheel:

Q#8:How does the flywheel work?
A#8:Together with the stator, the spinning flywheel creates current for
the ignition and lighting circuits. Together with the pickup
coil, the flywheel tells the pickup coil where the pistons are so the
CDI can fire the spark plugs. As the flywheel rotates, the pickup
coil senses the location of the tabs on the oustide of the flywheel,
and sends a pulse to the CDI. Another function of the flywheel is
to store inertial energy; by spinning on the crankshaft the flywheel's
weight can affect how fast engine RPM rises and falls. A
relatively heavy stock flywheel will keep the crankshaft spinning
longer than a lightened flywheel so when you let off the throttle and
then hit it again there is less "lag" between the time that the motor
hits it's "powerband" (or peak horsepower RPM) and the RPM that it was
spinning when you let off the throttle...the downside of a heavy
flywheel is that from a very low RPM it takes longer to hit the
powerband. Conversely, a lighter than stock flywheel has less
rotating mass so the engine can accellerate quicker from low RPM to
high RPM, but when you let off the throttle it will also decelerate
quicker, which means getting back into the powerband can take
longer. Opinions vary, but in general you will see drag racers
using lighter flywheels where every tenth of a second counts in quick
accelleration, and woods racers using stock flywheels (or even adding
flywheel weights in many dirtbike applications) to maintain RPM and
minimize clutching, thereby reducing rider fatigue. Here's a pic
of Sredish's lightened flywheel, you can see where material has been
removed from the perimeter of the flywheel but the tabs were not
touched:

Q#9:What the hell is a "woodruff key"?
A#9:A woodruff key is a shaft key that's shaped like a half-circle when
viewed from the side. It is made to fit into a half-circle slot
machined into a shaft, in this application the tapered end of the
crankshaft. The inside of the flywheel has a rectangular slot or
"keyway" that fits over the woodruff key as it sits in the crankshaft's
slot. Here's a pic of Meat's woodruff key, and the crankshaft
keyway without the woodruff key installed:

Q#10:What does the woodruff key do?
A#10:The woodruff key sets the flywheel's position onto the
crankshaft. This is also known as "indexing" the flywheel to the
crankshaft, or making sure that that the flywheel stays in the right
position relative to the crankshaft. It's important to note that
the taper of the flywheel and the torque on the flywheel nut is what
keeps the flywheel mounted securely to the crankshaft. The
woodruff key itself does not bear any rotational or axial load, it's
only purpose is to index the flywheel to the crankshaft when the
flywheel is mounted. That said, aftermarket offset woodruff keys
(often called "degree keys") are available that change the flywheel's
position relative to the crankshaft, thereby altering the ignition
timing (see Q#54 & 55). A PROPERLY installed degree key is no
less reliable than a stock woodruff key (you might need to rejet!),
since it's only function is to locate the flywheel on the crankshaft,
so don't be afraid of the thinner offset of the degree key, just make
sure the offset is in the correct direction and the flywheel is
installed correctly (see Q#48). Here's a pic of Meat's degree key
installed on a crank:

Q#11:What is a "pickup coil"?
A#11:A pickup coil is a small black box mounted to the stator
plate. It has two slotted mounts where two small phillips-head
screws secure it to the stator plate, and has two wires leading to the
wiring harness. The side of the pickup coil facing the flywheel
has a small round metal nub on it.

Q#12:What does the pickup coil do?
A#12:The pickup coil senses the two rectangular tabs on the flywheel as
it spins, and sends a pulse to the CDI. The CDI relies on this
pulse to know where the pistons are at relative to TDC, and also at
what RPM the motor is turning at by how many pulses it receives over a
given time period. The pickup coil needs to be close enough to
the flywheel tabs to sense them, but not so close that the tabs hit the
pickup coil.

Q#13:What's a "CDI"?
A#13:The CDI, or Capacitor Discharge Ignition, is the "brains" of the
ignition system. It takes the electricity produced by the
stator's ignition circuit, the input of the pickup coil, and tells the
coil when to fire the spark plugs. The CDI is a rectangular black
box located under the center of the rear fenders, just forward of the
grab bar and seat latch. The CDI is mounted with a small flat
rubberized metal bracket with two 12mm bolts, and has two short
four-wire connectors (later models have a four-wire and a five-wire
connector). There are no moving parts in the CDI, so it is a
"solid-state" device, meaning that it is completely electronic.

Q#14:How does the CDI work?
A#14:The CDI receives the electricity provided by the stator's ignition
circuit, and when it receives a signal from the pickup coil telling it
the engine's RPM and the piston's location relative to TDC, the CDI
then sends a current signal to the coil, which in turn fires the spark
plugs. The electronics within the CDI will fire the spark plugs
before (advanced timing) or after (retarded timing) the pistons reach
TDC depending on engine RPM, to provide the most efficient spark and a
clean combustion process. Banshee CDI's have NO rev limiter, as
some 2-strokes and most 4-stroke CDI's have, that will cut out the
ignition or otherwise prevent the motor from exceeding a preset
RPM. The TORS system, which is independent of the CDI (see Q#20),
performs a similar job by limiting spark if the emergency brake is "on"
or the carbuerator slides are open when the throttle is closed, but the
CDI itself does not limit RPM. Don't be fooled! The only
rev limiter on a Banshee is the stock pipes, the CDI would happily turn
20k RPM, if your motor stayed together...

Q#15:What is the "coil"?
A#15:The coil fires the spark plugs when it receives a current signal
from the CDI. On a Banshee the coil is bolted to the frame just
forward of the right cylinder, has two male spade terminals for an
orange and black wire from the wiring harness, and has two spark plug
wires with caps. It isn't a slinky so don't look for one on your
Banshee. Here's a pic of Superchicken's coil:

Q#16:How does the coil work?
A#16:The coil receives a current signal from the CDI, steps up the
voltage, and fires both spark plugs at the same time. The fact
that both plugs fire at the same time makes no difference on a 2-stroke
motor like a Banshee, where the pistons are 180 degrees apart, and can
be useful in locating potential problems with a single cylinder.
Since one piston is on it's compression stroke while the other is on
it's intake stroke, having both spark plugs fire at once is not
harmful, and from a manufacturing viewpoint makes only a single coil
necessary instead of independent coils for each cylinder. The
coil works by using the electromagnetic field that is pumped into it on
the primary winding side, and when power is taken away, the field
"collapses" and the secondary winding(s) "collect" the power and jump
it to the required voltage.

Q#17:What are "spark plug wires" (or leads) and what do they do?
A#17:The plug wires are high-tension wires that carry a high voltage
electrical signal from the coil to the spark plugs. They are
mounted at the coil with a flimsy plastic retainer that tends to break
easily if you screw with it. At the spark plug end they have a
rubber spark plug boot with a built-in resistor, seen on the wire just
before the spark plug cap. Here's a pic of Superchicken's spark
plug cap removed from the spark plug wire, showing the resistor parts
inside:

Q#18:What are spark plugs and what are they for?
A#18:The spark plugs thread into the top center of the cylinder head in
a 14mm hole, have a white porcelain top half, a threaded silver metal
bottom half with a small metal ground strap on the center pointing to a
ceramic center electrode with a small metal tip. They receive the
high voltage electrical signal from the coil and produce a spark
(imagine that) to ignite the intake charge and initiate the combustion
process. More than anyone ever wanted to hear about spark plugs,
but they are a vital part of the igntion system. For more
information about how to read spark plugs, check out the Jetting
FAQ. Otherwise just be content knowing that they oughta spark
when you kick it over.

Q#19:What is a "voltage regulator" and what does it do?
A#19:The voltage regulator is a small, square, silver box with a single
(usually blue) wire coming out of it leading to the wiring
harness. It is mounted just to the right-hand side of the CDI
under the rear fender, and typically one of the 12mm mounting bolts has
an eyelet terminal with a black ground wire going to the wiring
harness. The voltage regulator is NOT part of the ignition
system, but part of the lighting system. It's purpose is to
regulate voltage (you don't say) to the lights, preventing them from
blowing because of too much voltage. The voltage regulator on a
Banshee limits voltage to 12 volts no matter what RPM the motor is at,
since the higher the RPM the more voltage the stator will produce, the
voltage regulator prevents the voltage at the light bulbs (and the
wiring harness leading to the light bulbs) from exceeding 12
volts. As you've no doubt witnessed, at idle or low RPM, the
stator's ignition coil does not produce much voltage, as the lights are
real dim. When you wind it out they light up pretty well, but if
it wasn't for the voltage regulator they would burn out quickly from
the higher voltage.

Q#20:What is the TORS? (from the Jetting FAQ)
A#20:TORS is the Throttle OverRide System found on stock
Banshees. It consists of the large boxy carb tops, a switch on
the thumb throttle housing, a switch on the parking brake perch, and a
control box mounted to the frame rail above the left cylinder.
The function of the TORS is to limit engine RPM if the parking brake is
engaged, or if the throttle is released and the carb slides don’t shut
(see Jetting FAQ
Q#25). If the switch at the parking brake senses
that the parking brake is engaged, it tells the carb tops not to lift
the carb slides. Similarly, if the switch at the thumb throttle
senses that the thumb throttle has been released, the carb tops won’t
lift the carb slides. The problem with the system is that often
the switch on the parking brake perch will fail to sense that the
parking brake is not engaged, and will then limit RPM (the motor won’t
rev past idle); adjusting the switch is the first solution, eliminating
the TORS is a better one. Other drawbacks to the TORS is that the
carb tops are huge and makes jetting more time consuming, the entire
system is one more thing that can (and usually will) fail, and the
system adds unnecessary weight. Eliminating the TORS is well
worth the effort.

Q#21:How do I eliminate the TORS? (from the Jetting FAQ)
A#21:Several companies sell TORS elimination kits (Toomey, Vito’s,
etc.) that include aftermarket Mikuni carb tops, throttle cable, and an
idle screw kit. The throttle cable and carb tops are a simple
matter of removing the old and installing the new (be careful with the
carb top threads and remember to check the carb sync, see Jetting FAQ
Q#22). The idle screw kit requires removing the carbs, drilling a
hole (on the left side of the left carb and on the right side of the
right carb), tapping the hole, filing the casting flat, and installing
the screws. Drilling the hole is simple, just place a small piece
of wood inside the carb to prevent the tip of the drill bit from
dinging the opposite side of the carb when it goes through.
Tapping the threads is also easily done, however be careful to use a
good quality tapping fluid and run the tap in slowly; half turn in,
quarter turn out, etc. Breaking the tap off is an exceedingly bad
idea. Make sure to file off enough material at the end of the
casting, about ¼”, so that the idle screw can raise the carb
slide. Once installed, you can remove control box, the parking
brake switch and thumb throttle switch (follow the wires to a connector
and either disconnect it or cut the wires). Be sure to clean the
carbs thoroughly and use compressed air to blow out any drill filings,
and check the throttle cable free play. More details on
installing the kit can be found at www.toomey.com
in the tech section.

Q#22:OK I know the parts of the ignition system how does it work?
A#22:Basically, the crankshaft spins the flywheel around the stator,
the stator then produces electricity and sends it through the wiring
harness to the CDI, at the same time the pickup coil senses the tabs on
the flywheel and sends a signal to the CDI. Depending on engine
RPM, the CDI takes the electric current from the stator and the signal
from the pickup coil, and sends an electrical pulse through the wiring
harness to the coil, which steps up the voltage and fires both spark
plugs. For the ignition system to work (and the bike to run), the
flywheel has to be indexed to the crankshaft at the right position with
a woodruff key and the flywheel nut torqued properly so the flywheel
can't spin on the crank, the stator needs to be intact (not shorted or
broken circuit internally) to produce electricity, the pickup coil
needs to be intact and positioned with the correct gap from the
flywheel tabs, the stator plate needs to be mounted securely to the
engine bottom end, the CDI and coil need to be intact, the wiring
harness needs to be intact (not broken wires or shorting to the frame),
all wiring harness connectors need to be connected and making a
complete circuit on both sides (not loose so electricity can't travel
through), the spark plug wires need to be connected between the plugs
and the coil, the spark plugs need to be gapped and operational (not
fouled), and finally both the handlebar kill switch and the key switch
need to be "on".

Q#23:That makes sense, sort of, but I want a basic electrical system
overview…
A#23:If you’ve never messed with an electrical system, check this
out. On a relatively simple electrical system like a Banshee has,
it’s all about generating electricity just to fire the spark
plugs. When electricity is produced by the stator and flywheel,
it has a positive charge, and really wants to find the easiest path to
negative, or ground…like water flowing down a river. Along the
way, we can use the electricity to do stuff for us, in this case we
want it to fire the spark plugs at just the right instant, in the water
analogy, it would be like having a waterwheel using the flowing river
to turn. So it’s very important for the wiring and connectors to
make a complete path between the source or electricity (the stator) and
ultimately the ground (the motor and frame), since the spark plug is
connected to, or “grounded” to the motor, this is the end of the
electricity’s journey; making a fat spark between the electrical supply
and the ground strap of the spark plug. If the river was dammed
it wouldn’t flow, so couldn’t turn the waterwheel, with an electrical
system the same is true if a wire is broken or if the ground wire is
loose, unattached, or not making a good connection to the frame.
If the water or electricity’s path is unobstructed, like without a dam
(water) or broken wire (electricity), it makes a “complete
circuit”. If it does have an obstruction to flow, it makes an
“open circuit” and cannot operate. Another electrical term is
“short circuit”, in which case the electricity has taken a path to
ground before we wanted it to, as if the river was diverted away from
the waterwheel before it got there, again rendering it useless.
While the CDI, coil, wiring and switches can make a Banshee electrical
system seem much more complex, each part of the system has a function
and can easily be diagnosed when problems arise, as long as you know
what each component is supposed to do.

Q & A,
Testing

Q#24:What do I need to test the Banshee electrical system?
A#24:This FAQ, an Ohmmeter, and some patience. A factory or
Clymer manual is always a good source of information, and usually will
have good illustrations as well.

Q#25:What’s an “Ohmmeter”?
A#25:An Ohmmeter is a small instrument used to test for “resistance” in
an electrical circuit. Back to the water analogy from Q#23,
resistance is a measure of how much water is flowing down the river, or
if it’s flowing at all. In electrical terms, you can test
resistance through a wire to make sure that it isn’t broken between two
ends (this is important because even if a wire looks fine on the
outside, the copper wire inside the plastic insulation can be broken in
half), this type of test is called “continuity”. You can also use
an Ohmmeter to test the stator and coil, in this case you would be
looking for a certain resistance, or amount of Ohms, from the specs
above to tell if the components are OK; if you tested it and found an
abnormally high Ohm reading, it’s possible that the internal wiring of
the device is broken (an “open circuit”); if you see a very low Ohm
reading, it’s possible that it has a “short circuit” or the internal
wiring is melted together where it shouldn’t be. Just remember
that Ohms tell you how easily electricity can flow through a wire.

On a side note, I prefer a DVOM for testing, or Digital Volt/Ohm Meter,
and one that emits a tone or “beep” when testing continuity is really
cool. On these meters, when you set the instrument to check
continuity, it will beep at you when you have a complete circuit (like
if you touch the two leads together, or touch a lead to each end of a
good wire). This makes it easier to make continuity tests, even
if you have to turn down the stereo in the background to hear it,
because you don’t have to be looking at the meter to know if what your
testing DOES have continuity. The digital meters are also a
little easier to read and can be found in many auto parts stores for
around twenty bucks.

Q#26:How do I use an Ohmmeter to test continuity?
A#26:To test for continuity, set the meter to “continuity check” if you
have it, or “Ohms” if you do not. Some meters will have different
test ranges, but for continuity you can just set it to 10-100
Ohms. Now simply touch one test lead (it doesn’t matter which
one) to each end of the wire you want to test. If your meter
beeps, listen for the tone; if you hear it then that wire has
continuity through it. If your meter doesn’t beep, look at the
meter reading; a very low Ohm reading (close to 1 or 0) means that you
DO have continuity through the wire and it is OK; a very high reading
(the needle pegs out on an analog meter or the digital meter reads “-
-“, or infinite Ohms) means that the wire is broken somewhere and
electricity cannot flow through it.

Be careful with connectors! Don’t cram the test leads into the
connector you’re testing, as this will sometimes bend the little
terminals (the tiny copper or gold colored metal things inside the
plastic connector, which are crimped to the wire on one side and make
contact with another terminal when the connectors are put
together) and when you put it back together they will not make a
complete circuit. All you need to do is touch the test lead to
the terminal inside the connector, and the terminals should be clean to
make a good contact.

Don’t test for continuity while the motor is running! Continuity
is tested without electricity flowing through the wires. In fact,
you can test for continuity with the wiring harness completely removed
from your Banshee. Although unlikely, it’s possible to fry your
ohmmeter, and you probably won’t get the readings you’re after.

Q#27:How do I use an Ohmmeter to test resistance?
A#27:To test resistance, set the meter to “Ohms”, if several ranges are
available on your meter select the one closest to what you are looking
for. For example, if you’re testing the ignition coil of the
stator, set the meter to read 10-100 Ohms. Then touch one test
lead to each of the terminals that the wire color you’re looking for is
attached to (in the ignition coil example, put one test lead on the
terminal for the red wire and the other test lead on the green wire’s
terminal), then read the meter to tell how many Ohms of resistance are
between the two test leads. When testing resistance, it DOESN’T
matter which color test lead you put where, like continuity you are
just testing how much, if any, electricity can flow through. In a
Banshee application, there are no components (other than inside the
CDI) that you can test that will matter which way electricity can
flow. So in the example, it doesn’t matter if you put the black
test lead on the green wire or the red wire, or the red test lead on
the green or red wire, the results will be the same.

Again, be careful with the connector terminals and don’t test
resistance with the motor running!

Q#28:How do I test for spark?
A#28:One of the easiest and most common electrical system tests is to
check for spark. You don’t need anything except a wrench to
remove a spark plug to do this. Make sure both the key switch and
the handlebar kill switch are “on”, and it would be a good idea to turn
off the fuel. Remove one spark plug cap, and then remove that
spark plug. Stick the spark plug back into the cap, and hold the
end of the spark plug against the cylinder head (the very tip of the
spark plug that is usually inside the motor has a small metal strap on
one side, hold that “ground strap” against the top of the motor or one
of the head nuts). Now watch the tip of the spark plug and kick
the motor over. You should see a fat, blue spark at the end of
the spark plug, that’s a pretty good indication that your ignition
system is operational. If you don’t see a spark, try kicking it a
couple more times, or try holding the ground strap against another
metal part of the motor. It’s also easier to see the spark out of
direct sunlight, so don’t panic, get it into a garage and it will be a
lot easier to see.

Q#29:How do I test the Ignition Coil on the Stator?
A#29:Using an ohmmeter and the specifications above, check the
resistance between the red wire and the green wire on the four-wire
harness coming out of the stator. Find the four-wire connector
(usually white), at the front of the airbox on the right-hand side of
the bike. Depress the little plastic retainer on the connector
and disconnect the two connector halves. Take a look at the wire
on the connector towards the front of the bike, it should run under the
carbs and into the left-hand side of the motor’s bottom end. That
is the connector you want to test. On the back side of the
connector where the wires enter, locate the red and green wires.
Set your ohmmeter to test resistance (and the correct range if you need
to), and touch one test lead to the terminal on the red wire, and the
other test lead on the terminal on the green wire. Your ohmmeter
should read between 13.7 and 20.5 Ohms, so if it reads 15 Ohms your
stator ignition coil is OK, if it reads “- -“ or infinite Ohms or
anything less than 13.7 or more than 20.5, then the stator is shot.

Q#30:How do I test the Pickup Coil?
A#30:Same as above Q#29, except you will be testing between the red
& white wire and the green & white wire in the four-wire
connector. You should have between 94 and 140 Ohms between these
two wires. An important note is that the pickup coil needs to
have the correct gap between it and the flywheel tabs. To check
the gap, rotate the flywheel until one of the tabs on the outside lines
up with the pickup coil (either by hand or by moving the kickstarter
slowly). The gap should be between 0.015" and 0.020", if you need
to adjust the gap loosen the two small phillips-head screws where the
pickup coil mounts and relocate it, then retighten the screws. If
you’re in a real bind, you can use a matchbook cover to check the gap,
it’s about the same thickness. Just like adjusting valves on a
4-stroke motor, the feeler gauge should slide easily into the gap with
just the slightest drag, it should not be a bitch to cram the feeler
gauge in there (that’s too tight!) and you shouldn’t be able to bounce
the feeler gauge back and forth inside the gap (too loose!).

Q#31:How do I test the Lighting Coil on the Stator?
A#31:Similar to Q#29 above, check the resistance between the single
yellow wire and the single black wire coming out of the stator.
Usually right near the four-wire connector at the front of the airbox
on the right-hand side of the bike, you will find the two single wires
with hooded bullet-style connectors. Simply pull the connectors
apart, and test between the yellow and black wire that leads to the
stator. Your ohmmeter should read between 0.26 and 0.38 Ohms.

Q#32:How do I test the coil and spark plug caps?
A#32:Locate the coil on the bike, it’s bolted to a frame rail just
forward of the right cylinder. Unplug the orange and black wires
from the wiring harness to the coil, and pull the spark plug boots off
the spark plugs, then use a 12mm wrench to remove the coil mounting
bolts. Many bike shops
and dealerships have a bench tester for coils, if they’re nice
they might just test it for free...in addition, resistance tests may
test OK but the coil can still be bad, so if possible have it bench
tested or swap in a known working coil to be 100% certain, even if you
gotta pay a little bit for it. To test the coil, use an ohmmeter
to first measure the primary side resistance between the "+" and "-"
terminals that connect to the wiring harness, you should have between
0.28 and 0.38 Ohms. Next test the secondary side resistance
between the "-" terminal and the connector inside EACH spark plug boot,
you should have between 4,700 and 7,100 Ohms in each one. If the
secondary side test shows an open circuit (infinite resistance), remove
the spark plug cap and test directly to the wire, if you then get the
right resistance, replace the spark plug cap and test again; if it's
still infinite the cap is bad. If you still show an open circuit
at the end of the spark plug wire, remove the wire at the coil and test
again; if it is still infinite Ohms, the coil is shot, if not the
spark plug wire probably is bad.

Q#33:How do I test the handlebar kill switch?
A#33:Using an ohmmeter, test for continuity between the black ground
wire and the white & black wire, when the switch is “off” there
should be continuity between the two wires, when the switch is “on”
there should be an open circuit. Find the connector for the
handlebar kill switch and light switch, usually located around the
bottom front of the fuel tank (you may need to remove the fuel tank to
get to it). Depress the little plastic retainer on the connector
and disconnect the two connector halves. Put the ohmmeter test
leads on the black and white wires on the switch side of the wiring
harness, with the switch set to “on” you should have infinite
resistance or an open circuit (no electricity can flow). When you
turn the switch “off” you should have continuity or a small amount of
Ohms indicating that the circuit is complete (electricity can flow
through).

Q#34:How do I test the key switch?
A#34:Similar to Q#33 above, EXCEPT the key switch works just the
opposite; when the key is “on” there should be continuity between the
black & white and the black & red wires on the switch side
connector, and when “off” there should be no continuity. On the
wiring harness side of the switch (don’t ask me why the wire colors are
different or why there are four wires on the switch), the CDI needs to
have the black & red wire grounded to the black wire to run, and
when that circuit is opened it will shut off. See Q#60 on how to
eliminate the key switch. As above, test the key switch by
checking for continuity between the black & white and black &
red wires, except when “on” there should be continuity and when “off”
there should be no continuity.

Q#35:How do I test the voltage regulator?
A#35:Check the blue wire connector and the black ground eyelet on the
voltage regulator’s frame mounting bolt. If that’s OK, and your
headlights explode when you hit high RPM, it’s probably shot. To
test the voltage regulator, you'll need to rig a tachometer, and test
the DC voltage at one of the headlight connectors at two different
RPM's while the motor is running. Remove one headlight connector
by depressing the little plastic retainer and disconnecting the
connectors. Start the motor, turn the headlight switch on to
"high" beam, and have someone hold the throttle keeping the motor at
2500 RPM. With your DVOM (an ohmmeter won't cut it here, you need
a meter that can test DC volts) set to test DC voltage, touch the red
test lead to the yellow wire on the wiring harness side of the
headlight connector, and the black lead to the black wire in the same
connector; it should read 11.5 Volts (if the reading is lower, test the
lighting coil, see Q#31). Now have your helper hold the throttle
so the engine is turning 8000 RPM, with the meter test leads on the
same terminals you should read 16.3 Volts, if it is above this reading
the voltage regulator is toast. If both tests check out OK,
repeat the whole test with the red meter test lead on the green wire,
with the light switch set to "low" beam. You should get the same
readings, if the voltage higher than specified, replace the voltage
regulator.

Q#36:How do I test the wiring harness?
A#36:Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between connectors for
each wire color. Simply unplug the connector at each end of the
wiring harness that you want to test, and put one ohmmeter test lead on
the terminal for the same color wire on both ends. For example,
if you wanted to check the wiring harness between the stator and CDI,
unplug the connectors for each, put one test lead on the red wire
terminal at the stator, and the other test lead on the red wire
terminal at the CDI. You should have continuity between the two,
then move on to test the green wire, then red & white, then green
& white. If you have continuity for each wire color, then you
know the harness is intact. If you do not have continuity, first
make sure the terminals are secured to the wires at the back of the
connector, and that the terminals are clean (no rust or dirt inside the
connector). If there are no other visible problems, chances are
the wire that has no continuity has been severed inside it’s insulation
somewhere and will need to be replaced. Here's a pic of
Superchicken's stock wiring harness:

Q#37:How do I test the CDI?
A#37:The short answer is, you can’t. Since the CDI is a
solid-state electronic device potted (or encased) in silicone, about
the only thing you can check on it is to make sure the connectors are
tight and the wires are secured to the connector terminals. Short
of buying an expensive replacement, the only way to test the CDI is to
swap in a known working one. For this reason it’s usually best to
test every other electrical component first, if everything else checks
out then chances are the CDI is toast. . If you’re lucky you can
swap in a known working one from a buddy to make sure, but that’s not
always an option (see Q#61 if you can swap a CDI from a different year
Banshee and the connectors are different, it is still possible to try
it out by removing the terminals in the connectors). It should be
noted that MOST CDI failures are simply working or not (go or no go),
so if the bike will run occasionally and other times it won’t, the CDI
may not be the problem, but if it flat will not run and everything else
checks out OK, it probably is the CDI that is bad.

Q & A,
Troubleshooting

Q#38:My Banshee suddenly will not run, with no prior symptoms, WTF?
A#38:Many times electrical system problems will show up out of nowhere
with no warning, one day you’re ridin’ and the next day it won’t start
at all. If this happens, start with the simplest possible
solutions and proceed from there. Make sure it has fuel, the
petcock is “on”, the handlebar kill switch is “on”, the key switch is
“on”, and then test for spark (see Q#28). If it has spark but
will not run, look elsewhere before returning to the electrical system:
it might just need the choke, new spark plugs, the air filter may be
clogged, or the compression may be way low. Kick it over 5 to 50
times and then take a look at the spark plug, if it’s wet chances are
it isn’t starving for fuel, if fresh plugs don’t work, move on.
If everything else looks good, or you tested for spark and had none,
start by testing the stator (Q#29 above), as this is a common failure
(see Q#57 for tips on preventing stator failure). After that,
it’s a process of elimination, focus on the ignition circuit and
disregard the lighting circuit, so test the pickup coil, continuity
through the wiring harness, the coil, the plug wires, the handlebar
kill switch, the key switch, and if everything else tests OK and you
still have no spark, chances are the CDI needs to be replaced (Q#30-37
above).

Q#39:I recently installed a degree key, it ran great for a while then
died, why?
A#39:If it was running after installation of the degree key, the most
likely problem is that the flywheel nut came loose and either ate the
key or spit it out. Pull the stator cover and check the flywheel
nut, if it is loose or fell off, remove the flywheel (see Q#48) and see
if the key is intact. If it spun loose, check for damage on the
tapered end of the crankshaft and the inside of the flywheel. If
you replace the key make sure to install the flywheel correctly (see
Q#48). If the flywheel did not come off and the key is OK, make
sure the problem isn’t non-electrical; too much advance can cause
detonation, and on some motors just adding a degree key will cause a
lean jetting condition and could lead to piston damage. If
everything else checks out, go through all the tests in Q#38, it’s
possible that another electrical component just failed without having
anything to do with the degree key.

Q#40:My Banshee runs fine until the upper RPM’s, when it cuts in and
out, what is it?
A#40:A high-speed miss can be a symptom of the coil starting to
fail. If you’ve ruled out jetting or a broken reed, test the
coil. Also be sure to check the terminals from the wiring harness
to the coil, as they will sometimes become loose and make a bad or
intermittent connection (if loose, gently squeeze the female spade
terminals on the wiring harness so they fit tighter on the coil
terminals), and make sure the plug wires aren’t loose at the coil or
the spark plug caps.

Q#41:I hit a huge water puddle and my Banshee died, what happened?
A#41:Banshees don’t really like water, and many times the stock carbs
will stick wide open after hitting water, but when it dies chances are
water has made it’s way into the stator. Remove the stator cover
and drain any water present, let it dry out and try it again. For
tips on waterproofing your stator cover see Q#57. If the stator
was dry or it still won’t run, check all the connectors. If water
has gotten inside, you can put a dab of dielectric grease inside the
connectors to prevent water from causing problems in the future.
Again, if the problem persists start by checking for spark and then
continue testing until you find the problem (Q#28-37 above).

Q#42:I was riding and it started to cut in and out at various RPM’s,
what could it be?
A#42:Some of the hardest electrical problems to solve are the
intermittent ones. These are hard to test because sometimes heat
or vibration while riding will cause the problem, but testing
afterwards may not show any failures. Some common things to check
are the coil terminals (see Q#40), the wiring harness where a wire may
have rubbed against the frame and shorted out (this may not show up
with a continuity test but will be visible, although you may need to
remove the wiring harness to find it), and the stator (along with
testing resistance you can inspect it for any visibly loose wires or
solder joints). If everything tests OK (Q#28-37 above) and
you’re certain it isn’t a jetting problem (which will usually be
limited to a certain throttle position, unless it’s WAY off) or other
mechanical problem (exhaust or intake restriction, broken reed, etc.),
then most likely the stator is bad (see Q#29-30), with a slight chance
that the CDI is dying (see Q#37).

Q#43:I recently replaced my stator and now it won’t run, why?
A#43:Start with the simple checks; check the new stator’s resistance
just in case you got a DOA unit (it happens), see Q#29 & 30 and
make sure to check the pickup coil gap; make sure the connectors are
all tight; pull off the stator cover and check the flywheel (see Q#39)
and the wiring behind the stator plate for the stator and pickup coil,
it may have been cut or pinched against the motor during
assembly. If everything checks out OK, test everything else
(Q#28-37 above), there’s an outside chance that the stator was not the
original problem (if you replaced it because of an electrical failure),
or that another component failed at the same time.

Q#45:I suddenly have NO lights, what’s wrong?
A#45:Check the bulbs first, they may have just gone out from old age or
vibration. Check the stator lighting coil resistance next (see
Q#31), then test the wiring harness connectors and continuity (see
Q#36) making sure to check the ground, and finally take apart the
handlebar light switch and check out the switch itself. The light
switch may have gotten water (unlikely) or filth inside, or the
contacts have simply worn out.

Q#46:I replaced the spark plugs and it doesn’t run right, what’s the
deal?
A#47:Make sure you use new NGK BR8ES spark plugs or better NGK plugs
(there are various types of fine wire, race, etc. plugs available, but
opinions vary on how much they help; when in doubt stick with the BR8ES
plugs unless you have a VERY highly modified motor that requires a
different heat range). Check the spark plug gap, make sure the
little tit on top of the spark plugs are tight, make sure the spark
plug caps are clean inside where it connects to the spark plug, and
make sure the plug is tight in the cylinder head (don’t torque it like
crazy! On new plugs about one full turn past finger tight will
seat the sealing washer, on old plugs it takes closer to a quarter turn
past finger tight). Also make sure the spark plug wires are
connected to the coil securely.

Q & A,
Removal and Installation

Q#47:I need to replace my stator, how do I do it?
A#47:Removal-Unplug
the stator connectors, coming from the left-hand
side of the bottom end of the motor and routed under the carbs towards
the right-hand front of the airbox, there is one four-wire connector
(usually white), and a single yellow and black wire with a hooded
bullet-style connector. Depress the plastic retainer on the
four-wire connector to disconnect the two halves, and simply pull the
two single-wire apart. Remove the plastic stator cover on the
left-hand side of the bottom end of the motor (typically you’ll need to
remove the shift lever with a 12mm wrench by removing the bolt and
sliding it off the shift shaft splines, remove the left-hand footpeg
with a 17mm wrench by removing both bolts, and then removing the seven
phillips-head screws on the stator cover). Remove the flywheel
(see Q#48). Remove the three bolts securing the stator plate to
the motor with either a 12mm wrench or a phillips-head
screwdriver. Push the wiring boot just above the stator plate out
of the hole in the bottom end of the motor, and pull the short wiring
harness through the hole. Pull the stator assembly away from the
motor. If by chance you are not replacing the entire assembly
(aftermarket stators typically come mounted to the stator plate, along
with the pickup coil), remove the stator from the plate by removing the
three phillips-head screws, and remove the wiring from the short rubber
grommet (this is a BITCH, once the electrical tape is removed if
present, the wires don’t want to go back through the grommet without
cutting off the bullet-style connectors, luckily you can find these
connectors at most auto parts stores. You can remove the
terminals from the four-wire connector to get them through, see
Q#61). Make sure you note how the wires are routed around the
stator plate.Installation-While not
entirely necessary, it doesn’t hurt to test the
resistance on the new stator before you install it, just in case it’s
DOA (see Q#29-31). If your stator didn’t come mounted to the
stator plate, install it on the plate with the three phillips-head
screws and carefully route the wires through the stator plate and
through the rubber grommet. Hold the stator up to it’s mounting
location and push the connectors through the hole in the bottom end of
the motor, routing the short harness under the carbs towards the wiring
harness connectors, then push the rubber grommet in place in the
hole. Use a little anti-seize compound on all the bolts and
screws (I recommend this stuff whenever you’re putting a steel bolt
into aluminum). Thread the three stator plate mounting bolts
through the plate and tighten them (if it is a tight fit, tighten the
bolts in a circular pattern a turn or two at a time so you don’t warp
the plate). If you are going to advance the timing with the
stator plate by slotting the holes (see Q#56), or you have an
aftermarket plate that is already slotted, line up the adjustment mark
that you want to set the timing to with the line where the case upper
& lower halves meet just to the right (or rear of the bike) of the
stator plate, and tighten the stator plate bolts. Install the
flywheel (see Q#48), and set the pickup coil gap (see Q#30).
Reinstall the stator cover, footpeg, and shift lever, and then plug in
the four-wire connector and the two single wires to the wiring harness.

Q#48:I need to replace the flywheel or key, how do I do it?
A#48:Removal-You will
need to invest in a flywheel puller tool, these
are available for $10-20 all the time on ebay, or double or triple that
at your local dealer. Do not use a jaw-type bearing puller!
Same goes for prybars, hydraulic jacks and C4, these can all damage the
flywheel and should be avoided. Some flywheels don’t want to come
off even with the tool, so you may also need some of your favorite
flavor of penetrating oil (WD40, panther piss, etc.). Remove the
stator cover (see Q#47 above). Using a 17mm socket (19mm on
RZ350's), remove the
flywheel nut. The BEST way to remove the nut is with an impact
wrench, you won’t even need to hold the flywheel, the impact will spin
the nut right off. If you’re in a bind and cannot use an impact
(really, the impact is way way better), you can use a rubber or fabric
strap-type oil filter wrench to hold the flywheel while removing the
nut, but if it's not the right length it may not work very well and you
risk damaging the
flywheel tabs or busting your knuckles when the strap wrench invariably
slips. Motion-Pro makes a flywheel/clutch holder tool that would
be one of the best options if an impact is unavailable. If you’re
industrious, you can fabricate a flywheel holder out of a short (about
12”) piece of metal and two 3/8” bolts; simply measure the centers of
two of the holes in the flywheel’s center section, drill the metal with
two holes at the same distance apart at one end, and mount the bolts to
the metal piece with a nut so that the bolt extends past the nut.
Then simply use the new tool to hold the flywheel by setting the ends
of the two bolts into the flywheel. Depending on how many holes
are in your flywheel, you may need to use two holes opposite of each
other (3-3/8" from center to center), in that case you’ll need a
holesaw to drill a hole in the center
to get a socket on the flywheel nut, like mine (shown with an RZ350
flywheel):

Here's a couple pics of Holyman's flywheel holder, which will engage
two holes on the side of the flywheel:
Here's a pic of Meat's flywheel holder, a good rubber strap wrench:

Once the flywheel nut is loose, carefully thread the outside of the
flywheel puller tool into the center of the flywheel until it bottoms,
remember that the fine threads on the inside of the flywheel are
left-hand so thread it in counter-clockwise (you may need to back the
center bolt out all the
way first so it doesn’t hit the end of the crankshaft before the
outside threads bottom out in the flywheel). Then thread the
center bolt in until it contacts the crank, finger tight. Using
two wrenches, hold the outside of the tool and tighten the center bolt
on the tool fairly tight (not 6-foot cheater bar tight! the
flywheel has very fine threads and is easily stripped, so just tighten
it about a quarter or half turn, so that the tool is putting tension on
the flywheel away from the crank…for you detail freaks probably about
20-30 ft-lb. of torque). Now take the wrenches off the tool and
hit the center bolt on the flywheel puller tool with a hammer (not a
sledge! a ball-peen, dead-blow or small mallet is fine). If
the flywheel hasn’t popped off the crankshaft after putting tension on
it with the tool or a couple whacks with the hammer, remove the tool
and soak the center of the flywheel with penetrating oil. If the
motor is out of the bike turn it on it’s right side so gravity can help
the oil soak in between the flywheel and the crank. If the motor
is still in the frame, flip it up on it’s right side wheels (turn off
the fuel first) so the flywheel is pointing straight up, and use a
short 2x4 or something against the frame to hold it up. Let the
oil soak in an hour or ten (you may need to hose it down with
penetrating oil every day and let it sit for a couple days if it really
doesn’t want to come off), then thread the tool back in and try again
(remember to just tighten the tool enough so that it has tension on it
and then hit it with a hammer, sometimes you’ll feel it move a little
bit but won’t pop off so as long as it’s moving keep going with the
process of tighten, hammer, tighten, hammer). Once you get the
flywheel off, DON’T DROP IT! Dropping it or hitting it directly
with a hammer can render it useless, the flywheel is magnetized and an
impact can demagnetize it, and if the tabs are broken off you got
yourself a paperweight. The last thing to do is remove the
woodruff key from the crankshaft, it should pop right out but may need
a little persuasion with a light tap. Here's a pic of Meat's
flywheel remover tool being threaded into the flywheel, then tightening
the center bolt:Installation-Get some
anti-seize compound and coat the end of the
crankshaft (not the threads!) and the mounting area of the flywheel
lightly, along with the woodruff key and keyway on the crank. Set
the woodruff key in the keyway on the crankshaft (this is a lot easier
if you turn the crank so the keyway faces straight up), if you are
installing a degree key make sure the offset is in the right direction
(with the crankshaft key facing up, place the key in the crankshaft
slot with the offset facing the left, or front of the motor).
Align the keyway on the flywheel with the
woodruff key, and make sure the key doesn’t move when you slide the
flywheel in place on the crank. Clean the threads on the end of
the crank, put some blue (medium) loctite on them. Install the
lockwasher and then the nut. Use a 17mm socket to tighten the
flywheel nut, and use a flywheel holder tool (see Removal above) to
torque the nut to 59 ft-lbs. Make sure you torque that
nut!! The last thing you want is that nut to come off 50 miles
from nowhere, so take the time to torque it right. An impact
might get it tight enough, of course it might just strip the nut out
(or worse the end of the crank!). Double check the pickup coil
gap (see Q#30), and install the stator cover.

Q#49:I need to replace the coil, how do I do it?
A#49:This one’s easy, simply disconnect the orange and black wires from
the wiring harness on the right-hand side of the coil, remove the spark
plug caps, and use a 12mm wrench to remove the one mounting
bolt. Installation is the same thing in reverse, but one thing to
check is that the coil makes a good ground to the frame at the mounting
bolt, if it is painted or powder coated you may need to scrape off the
coating so that it is bare metal where the coil mounting bolt secures
the coil. You can also use a little anti-seize on the bolt to
prevent rust, as well as a little dielectric grease on the wiring
harness connectors to keep water out of the wiring.

Q#50:I need to replace the CDI, how do I do it?
A#50:The CDI is even easier than the coil; all you need to do is unplug
the two four-wire connectors (later models may have one five-wire and
one four-wire) by pushing in on the plastic retainer and disconnecting
the two connector halves. Remove the two 12mm bolts on the
bracket holding the CDI, and remove it. Again installation is
just the reverse, and you can use some anti-seize on the bolts and
dielectric grease on the connectors to prevent corrosion.

Q#51:I need to replace my voltage regulator, how in the world can I do
it?
A#51:OK don’t let the sarcasm get to you but a trained monkey, or even
a dealer-employed mechanic is qualified to replace the volt reg (just
kidding! damn!!). Unplug the single blue wire from the
wiring harness, and remove the two 12mm bolts. Installation is
just as painless, but you need to make certain that the black ground
wire with an eyelet makes a good ground to one of the mounting bolts
(see Q#49 above). Again you can use anti-seize on the bolts and
dielectric grease on the connector.

Q#52:How do I replace the wiring harness?
A#52:Oh boy, you’re screwed, you might as well sell it right now.
Not! The easiest way to replace the wiring harness is to start at
the CDI, run the new harness alongside the old one, and simply unplug
the old harness connectors and plug in the new ones. Take care to
route the wiring harness along the same path as the old one, and if it
gets close to the pipes try to keep it far enough away so it doesn’t
get burnt. Use the factory ties if possible, and if you use zip
ties don’t make them super tight or the wiring harness will be more
prone to rubbing the frame and causing a short circuit. You will
probably need to remove the fuel tank to get to the connectors and
wiring to the handlebars. Also you can use dielectric grease in
all the connectors to prevent corrosion.

Q#53:How do I replace the light switch, key switch, headlights or
taillight?
A#53:All of these are simply a matter of tracing the wires to a
connector, unplugging it, and installing the new one. Headlight
and taillight bulbs can be replaced by taking their housings apart (or
removing the lens) and changing out the bulb.

Q & A,
Electrical System Modifications

Q#54:What is “advanced timing”?
A#54:Advancing the ignition timing is an age-old method of extracting a
few more horsepower out of a 2-stroke engine. Typically when a
motor leaves the factory it’s detuned for reliability and ease of use,
advancing the timing can give you a couple ponies cheap or free,
without risking damage, as long as you don’t go too far. By
advancing the timing, you alter the time that the spark plug ignites
the intake charge. If the spark plug fires earlier due to
advanced timing, more of the intake charge can be burned, and more
efficiently, producing more power. In it’s factory detuned state,
a Banshee will benefit from advanced timing, and together with other
simple mods can quickly make a lot more horsepower (some dyno testing
shows about 2hp gain from 4 degrees of advance). However, too
much advance can quickly cause detonation and/or overheating problems,
so it’s best not to go beyond about 4 degrees of advance unless you are
building a dedicated drag racer or plan on running high octane
fuel. Also remember that your jetting
may be affected by timing advance, and reading your spark plug can give
you an indication of too much timing advance or detonation (see the Jetting FAQ).

Q#55:How do I advance my timing?
A#55:There are three ways to advance the timing; a degree key (see
Q#10), slotted stator plate mounting holes, or an aftermarket
CDI. Degree keys are relatively cheap, fairly easy to install,
and are usually available in 4 degree or 7 degrees of advance
(typically 4 degrees is perfect for all but drag racing ONLY
applications, where the 7 degree key is used on gas motors) .
Aftermarket adjustable stator plates cost more and are a little harder
to install, but offer the advantage of being able to easily adjust the
timing anytime by loosening the stator plate bolts and rotating the
plate, or by loosening the pickup coil screws and adjusting the pickup
coil mount. Your stock stator plate can be modified by elongating
the
mounting bolt holes (see Q#56 below). Adjustable stator plates
also offer the benefit of being able to go much farther than 7 degrees
of advance or even retard the timing, however both of these scenarios
only apply to seriously built alcohol or other exotic-fueled drag
racers. Aftermarket CDI’s are by far the most expensive, but are
also way way easier to install and offer the greatest adjustability
(depending on model) and flexibility. An aftermarket CDI may also
offer side benefits such as hotter spark or outputs for shift lights or
nitrous oxide solenoids.

Q#56:How do I modify my stock stator plate to advance the timing?
A#56:First of all, you need to make a mark on the stator plate to use
as a reference for advancing the timing. Once the stator cover
and flywheel are removed (see Q#47), etch a mark on the stator plate on
the right side (or towards the rear of the bike) of the stator plate
where the upper and lower case halves meet. This mark will be
your “zero advance” reference mark. Next remove the stator
assembly and find a tool to slot the mounting holes. A Dremel
tool with a straight carbide burr works well, or any other rotary tool
that will fit in the stator plate mounting bolt hole (about 6mm in
diameter) and cut the aluminum material will work, a drill bit does not
work very well, nor do most grinding stones since they will load up
quickly. With the stator plate sitting on a workbench, with the
stator coils and pickup coil facing upwards, use your cutting tool to
elongate the three stator plate mounting holes counterclockwise, along
an imaginary circle that is the diameter of all three bolts. In
other words, don’t just slot the holes in a straight line as the bolts
won’t go in; you need to curve the slot so that when the stator plate
is mounted loosely with the bolts, it can rotate. You only need
to elongate the holes about 1mm for every degree of timing advance you
want to add, so if you’re going for 4 degrees of advance slot the holes
about 4mm longer. Remount the stator plate with the bolts finger
tight and align your reference mark where the upper and lower case
halves meet. Now rotate the stator plate clockwise, one
millimeter for every degree of advance you want to run, by using the
reference mark relative to where the upper and lower case halves
meet. Tighten the stator mounting bolts, reassemble everything
(see Q#47), and verify your jetting just in case (see the Jetting
FAQ). Here's a pic of BdBanshee's stator plate modded for up to 5
degrees of advance:

Q#57:How can I waterproof my stator?
A#57:The stock stator doesn’t have the best water protection. The
problem (I think) lies in the bottom case half casting. Just to
the right (or towards the rear of the bike) of the stator and pickup
coil is a notch on the bottom case half. This notch was used on
the RD/RZ350 street bikes, which the Banshee motor is derived from, for
a short wire that goes to the neutral sensor. You’ve no doubt
noticed the little white plastic cap just below the front sprocket,
well on the street bikes there was a small spring-loaded nub on the
inside of that cap that extended into a hole on the end of the shift
drum when the transmission was in neutral, thereby signaling the
neutral lamp to light up. These bikes had a rubber grommet for
that wire where it passed through the bottom case half (the wire was
run alongside the stator wires through the upper case half hole and
grommet) so that the stator was sealed off from the relatively open
area where the front sprocket sits. For some reason, most
Banshees do not have a grommet there and the rubber stator cover gasket
doesn’t seal off the little casting hole. So if you are getting
water into the stator, first check that the rubber gasket on the stator
cover is intact and replace it if necessary, and then add a small
rubber plug in that hole, or seal it with silicone. You can cut a
small (about 1cm) piece off the stator cover gasket itself to plug that
hole, just cut it off the very rearward part of the gasket above the
front sprocket where it really isn’t sealing anything off anyway.

Q#58:What’s the right way to install a tether kill switch?
A#58:While some people run both wires of a tether kill switch to the
coil, and this does work, it may cause damage to the CDI. The
best way to wire a tether (or pushbutton) kill switch is to use the
handlebar kill switch circuit. When the black/white wire on the
handlebar kill switch is grounded, the CDI kills the motor. All
you need to do is ground one of the tether wires to the frame (or
splice it to the black wire for the handlebar kill switch), and splice
(see Q#59) the other wire onto the black/white wire somewhere. If
you bought it new, the tether switch should have instructions
indicating which wire should be grounded and which one grounds when the
tether is pulled (if you’re not sure which is which, temporarily splice
the wires one way but don’t cut them until you know it works). I
prefer a solid ground to the frame just in case, so I like to use a
nylon solderless eyelet terminal on the ground wire (you’ll need a wire
stripper and a pair of crimpers along with the terminal, but you can
find all of it at an auto parts store) and attach it to one of the
tether wires. Make sure you don’t cut the wire too short to reach
a frame bolt, once the terminal is crimped in place make sure it
contacts bare metal on the frame and tighten the bolt (you can use any
of the bolts that thread into the frame, like the coil mounting bolt,
the upper steering stem mount, etc.). Now splice the other tether
kill switch wire to the black/white wire. If you’re eliminating
the handlebar kill switch (not really a good idea unless you mount a
pushbutton kill switch in it’s place, having a kill switch you can
easily reach with your left hand while holding on to the handlebars is
a good idea in case of emergency, you may not have time to yank the
tether out or be able to get one hand off the handlebars), simply cut
the black/white wire somewhere between the old switch and the wiring
harness connector and splice the tether switch wire to it (you can also
splice the other tether switch wire to the black wire if you don’t want
to use a frame bolt for the ground). If you are keeping the
handlebar kill switch, you’ll either need to skin the insulation off
the black/white wire somewhere and splice the tether switch wire to it,
or use one of those 3m Scotchlocks to piggyback onto that wire.
Before you go crazy with the electrical tape, test the tether kill
switch! With the tether installed, the motor should run, and when
you yank out the tether, it should die. If it doesn’t, first make
sure the splices and/or ground is making good contact, then try
swapping the two wires (move the ground wire to the black/white wire,
move the one that was on black/white to ground…some tether kill
switches will only operate one way). Make sure any splices are
thoroughly taped with electrical tape, use zip ties to route the wires
if necessary (don’t make them too tight or the wires can rub through!),
and for a clean appearance tape the wires alongside or onto the
existing wiring harness in a spiral pattern along the whole length.

Q#59:What’s a splice and how do I make one?
A#59:A wire splice is essentially just connecting two wires. If
you are simply splicing the end of one wire to the end of another, you
can (in order of best to worst):
1.Strip the insulation off each wire, twist them together, solder the
joint, slide heat shrink tubing over the connection so it extends past
the insulation on both wires at least 2cm, and use a heat gun to shrink
the tubing.
2.Strip the insulation off each wire, twist each wire separately (just
to keep stray wires from sticking out), and crimp a nylon solderless
butt connector between the wires.
3.Strip the insulation off each wire, then take one wire and separate
the conductors (all the little tiny copper or aluminum wires that were
inside the plastic insulation before you stripped it) in half so it
makes a “V”, and then twist each side of the V together tightly.
Take the other wire and do the same thing, so you have two “V’s”.
Now push the two V’s together and twist one half of the V on each wire
together, then twist the other half of the V on each wire together, and
finally twist both of your twisted wires together. Fold the
twisted wires back onto the insulation of one of the wires and wrap the
whole mess with electrical tape in a spiral pattern along the whole
splice.

Now if you’re splicing the end of a new wire to the middle of an
existing wire, you can:
1.Same as #1 above except you’ll need to carefully “skin” the
insulation off the middle of the existing wire to expose the conductor
wires. Be careful not to cut the conductors, and before soldering
wrap the stripped end of the new wire tightly around the existing wire
conductor. Once soldered, lay the new wire alongside the existing
wire and slide the heat shrink tubing over both wires on one side. You
may not be able to get the heat shrink tubing over the solder, in that
case
you’ll have to tape over it with electrical tape.
2.Use a 3M Scotchlock to piggyback the new wire onto the existing
wire. These things have a small aluminum thing inside that
(usually) makes contact with the conductor wires when you snap them
shut. They don’t always make a good contact however, and you need
to get the correct size for the wire you’re working with. The
plastic tab that holds it shut is kinda flimsy too so it’s best to tape
over them once installed.
3.Same as #3 above, except your “V” will just be twisted onto the
existing wire.

Q#60:How do I eliminate my key switch?
A#60:The key switch operates just the opposite of the handlebar kill
switch; when the red/black wire from the CDI is grounded, it is “on”,
when the red/black wire is not grounded, it is “off”. To
eliminate the key switch, simply trace the wires from the switch to the
connector on the wiring harness (you’ll probably need to remove the
fuel tank to reach the connector) and unplug it. Either cut the
black/red and black wires off and splice them together, or re-use the
switch side connector to make a jumper wire. I prefer re-using
the connector for a good weatherproof seal, to do this all you need to
do is remove one terminal from the connector on the switch side (see
Q#61 below) for the black/red wire, uncrimp the terminal from the wire,
cut the black/white wire about an inch or two away from the connector,
strip the black/white wire and crimp the terminal on, and stick the
terminal back into the connector. Then simply cut off the red and
brown wires off on the switch side of the connector. When you’re
done and connect the two connectors together, the red/black wire and
the black wire on the wiring harness side will be looped together and
make a complete circuit. On a side note, you can also re-use the
two-wire TORS connectors instead of the switch side connector, as one
of those connectors will fit right on to the key switch’s wiring
harness connector (just make a jumper connector as above so the two
wires are tied together).

Q#61:How can I remove terminals from a connector?
A#61:You may at some time need to remove the terminals from a
connector. One example is CDI testing; Banshee CDI’s have very
little difference between year models from 1987 and up, so it is
possible to use a different year CDI to test your own CDI, even if the
connectors are different. In this case all you need to do is
write down what color wire goes where in each connector, remove the
terminals from both the old and new CDI’s, and then put the new CDI
terminals into your old CDI’s connectors, and you can hook it right
up. To remove the terminals, you’ll need a sharp instrument like
a straight pick or ice pick, or the end of a large paperclip folded
open. When the connector is disconnected, look at the inside of
the connector at the terminal itself. You should see a small
plastic retainer that you can push down with your pick. The
retainer will look like a small ramp, that when the terminal is shoved
into the connector prevents it from coming out. Some terminals
have the retainer on the terminal, in which case you depress the little
metal tab. With one hand pull lightly on the wire that’s crimped
to the terminal you want to remove (towards the wiring harness), and
with the other hand depress the little retainer. The terminal
should slide right out the back of the connector. To install the
terminal into the connector, simply push the terminal in (make sure it
is aligned correctly and not upside down) until the little retainer
clicks in place and secures the terminal (unless you really mashed the
retainer or have the terminal upside down it should not back
out). It should be noted that terminals are often different
depending on the gender of the connector, so you can only put terminals
for a female connector in another female, or male terminals in a male
connector (typically a CDI will have one male and one female
connector). Here's a pic of Superchicken's CDI connectors, which
are the same for '97 and up Banshees (on older machines there will be
two four-wire connectors, and depending on year can be round or square):

Q#62:How do I wire in aftermarket headlights?
A#62:The easiest way to wire aftermarket headlights is to cut off the
factory headlight wires between the headlight and the wiring harness
connector. Then you can simply splice the new headlight wires to
the black ground wire and either the green wire (which will be “low”
beam on the stock handlebar light switch) or the yellow wire (“high”
beam), or both if your new headlights have a high & low beam.
If you want to remove the headlights you can just disconnect the
factory connectors. It should be noted that the factory stator
lighting coil can only handle two 30-35W headlights, or about 70W total
(a
little more for the taillight). If you use higher wattage bulbs
with a stock stator they won’t damage anything, but will not be very
bright (possibly dimmer than the stock lights!). Also, if you are
considering higher wattage headlights and want to upgrade your stator,
be advised that some stators have a 70W circuit just like the stock
stator, along with a separate, higher wattage circuit that will require
another voltage regulator. To my knowledge Ricky Stator’s higher
wattage stators have only one lighting circuit with a higher wattage,
so no additional wiring will be necessary.

Q#63:I want to eliminate the worthless junk in my wiring harness or
make a new one…
A#63:If by chance you wish to wire the headlights (stock or
aftermarket) so they are always on “high” beam, eliminate the key
switch and all the TORS crap, here is a color-coded wiring diagram:

Q#64:I followed all your directions above and now my Banshee won’t run,
my wife left me, my dog bit my leg, a giant asteroid is on a collision
course for earth, blah blah blah…
A#64:So you want a disclaimer? Allright: the thoughts and
opinions expressed on this page are solely those of the author, who
takes no responsibility whatsoever for the results of any actions that
may injure or kill the planet’s inhabitants if done at home or in the
parking lot of a 7-11, and who by the way is NOT laying on a beach in
the Carribean sipping exotic elixirs and tapping the asses of scantily
clad beach bimbos right now because he didn’t make a damn cent off of
trying to help fellow enthusiasts by composing this document. If
you want to piss and moan, file litigation, protest in front of the
White House, whatever…tough shit, I’m goin’ riding.

One more big thanks to all the awesome members of the www.bansheehq.com forums for all
your help and input, I can't name you all but you know who you are, I
couldn't have done it without you!!