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11-Nov-2016 01:09

After a musical performance by the Turkish ambassador's wife, co-hosted by the wife of Iran's foreign minister, several women who attended were hassled or briefly detained after they left, foreign envoys here say.

Yet Tehran is filled with signs -- from the canned pork on sale at a supermarket to the "Jingle Bells" ringtone on the cell phone of a staffer at Reselaat, one of Iran's conservative newspapers -- that the rigidity of the early era is steadily eroding.

If you've passed your exit on a busy freeway, just back up.

And if you need to make an illegal U-turn, wait until oncoming traffic is roaring toward you.

Now, Tehran is flooded with a new breed of law enforcement: traffic cops and meter men.

They represent an attempt to control the capital's chaotic streets, where free-for-all rules account for one of the highest accident rates in the world.

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"Pretty soon you won't be able to tell the difference between you and us," she told a Western reporter.

Across the country, in both conservative and relatively liberal cities, I found the frustration of young Iranians palpable.