Fans of sauvignon blanc looking for a wine somewhat more subtle than the models that come from New Zealand — and their imitators worldwide — should lay in the Silverado Vineyards Miller Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Napa Valley. Not that this estate-grown and bottled wine doesn’t display its own exuberance. Made completely in stainless steel and undergoing no malolactic process, the Silverado S.B. ’08 fairly shimmers with electrifying freshness and crispness. A bright burst of lime and grapefruit, softened with melon and beguiling jasmine, greets the nose, while after a moment or two, a thread of dried tarragon and meadowy dust weaves through the mix. In the mouth, this sauvignon blanc, with seven percent semillon grapes, deftly balances keen liveliness with a moderately lush texture; layers of chalky limestone support spicy roasted lemon and lemon balm flavors with a touch of orange rind. The floral element expands, encompassing hints of lilac and lavender, as if you were secretly sniffing the powder in your mother’s compact, lo, those many years ago! A winsome and delicious sauvignon blanc with a serious structure that we drank with the simplest preparation of seared salmon: salt, pepper and lemon juice; it would also be good with grilled octopus, vegetable spring rolls or sushi, that is, food that is clean, fresh and slightly piquant, and unburdened by rich sauces. Finished with a screw-cap for easy opening. Excellent. About $23.

Hey, Vinogirl, I love the Groth SB, always one of my favorites. Farella-Park, damnit, I don’t know, I’ll have to see if I can find a bottle. Honig I blow hot and cold on, though it’s been a while since I tried any of their stuff. thanks for the recommendations.