Description

Welcome to the Gunks is a nice little single-pitch climb that passes through multiple roofs!

Begin below tiered roofs at the center of a low roof with two crack/flake systems which is right of Tequila Mockingbird and Dry Martini. The access trail for Welcome to the Gunks is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

The first bit is difficult and scary - unprotected moves on slopers will get you to some decent gear. Above this there is another runout through the second roof, but fortunately the rest of the climb is well-protected.

This used to be rated 5.9. We thought it had five 5.9 cruxes: the slab, the first roof, the scary moves to the second roof, the second roof itself (the actual crux), and the roof on P2.

The slab approach was always scary for me, and the second roof never felt easy. If you do P2, you have a bunch of junky climbing above the P2 crux as you wander up and eventually a bit right to a tree that you can belay and rap from.

I thought this was the hardest 5.10 that I have ever followed at the Gunks. Perhaps it was late in the day (our last climb), but I rarely fall on a Gunks 10. I fell three times on this climb. The slab was difficult (hard to reach the big holds for this short climber), the roofs were easy relative to the R section on the orange rock. I took a fall trying to move from the slopers to the horizontal under the roof. All in all, a hard climb, I thought much harder than Feast of Fools, Interstice, Mothers Day party, Retribution, Nose dive etc. I am not sure I would repeat this any time soon.

Roof #4 is much easier than the others and then it is easy climbing up and right to the belay tree. I did this on toprope and my hat is off to anyone who can calmly lead it! (Please don't think I am suggesting I sent the thing-- I fell several times at roof number 2 and then again at roof #3.) The route is difficult, varied, and it just keeps presenting new challenges, although there are good rests as well. I am amazed anyone ever called this a 5.9!

A block has broken off at the top of the initial slab section for the right hand start variation, which is also the start of Laughing Man. The variation is still possible, but it is more difficult than before, and it is especially more difficult if you don't realize the block is gone until you are in the middle of the sequence.

This does not affect the left start, which is pretty much directly underneath the first roof.

I wish I read Dennis's report above about the fallen hold. The initial slab on the right was ouch, especially if you don't put any pro. I did the route a few years ago and it seemed more enjoyable, maybe because of the hold was there - I never remember any beta details, but maybe I got fatter. My question is: where is the R section above the first roof? I'd say initial slab may be R but not after. Also, after the crux roof #2 should I go up/right or up/left?

The comments about the left and right variation starts had me confused (the two options are not described in the route description). I would say go for the left variation which has solid holds and is relatively easy (5.8?).

I didn't think the "scary" face above roof #1 was poorly protected. You have to make a thin move above gear, but the gear is solid. On the other hand I had trouble finding good gear at Roof #2 and ended up backing off. The gear is solid, but it's easier once you find the right spot and the right piece. Also, there's a fixed rusty old cam underneath that roof to help as you figure out the gear you'll actually be falling on at the crux ;)

Roof #4 may be easier than the other three but with the pump and mental drain it's still pretty challenging.

I thought the orange face below the crux roof was well protected for the face itself, but the stand up move to the stance below the crux is very balancy and will be harder when that block eventually gets yanked out. How it's even holding on now is beyond me. If you blew it clipping from the crunched stance below the roof you would probably smack the low-angle area above the first roof pretty hard. I can see this one sketchy part warranting a PG-13 or R rating. Other than that one spot the climb is well protected by Gunks standards.

Unfortunately, I can now testify that it is very possible to bust one's ankle by falling just before the second roof. The gear was good (0.3 on the left, 0.75 on the right, on doubles), but it was 3 feet below my feet. Plus the sling and even minimal slack in the system, that's 15 feet to accelerate before the rope starts to come taught, and the lower-angled section just above the first roof came up fast. Great route, have fun, but take that move seriously.

Minor fracture of the distal fibula. No surgery, not sure how many weeks I'll be out.

Thinking about it, not sure if there were more gear options up and right? Or, use a stiffer rope (a single plus a half rope) to reduce stretch. Or, next time I might bring an aid hook -- there's an incut ledge, used as a handhold and then a foothold, and if a hook held it would reduce the fall by ~6 feet.

I found the most PG13 part of this route to be the first slab. An attentive belayer will probably keep you off the ground but it will be close. The bulge before the second roof was pretty well protected with great gear only a foot or 2 under your feet(you can literally build an anchor here if you want). If you make it over the first roof without falling, you will most likely be fine through the PG13 section. Such an awesome route! The roofs just keep coming!

Adding to the chorus of folks who found the orange face below the second roof to be scary. I didn't mind the run-out below the first roof at all (5.8 climbing) and thought the moves through the first roof were easier than the orange face above it.

I'm short and wasn't able to reach the crimp without some serious acrobatics involving the single pad gaston. Once at the crimp, I was completely extended and fell on my 00 trying to eke out more reach. It was an okay spot to fall but falling above wouldn't have been okay, as Kevin testified above. I'd love to watch a fellow short person do this with more grace...