Chicago: why the Windy City is a perfect place for a food tour

Chicago - in pictures

Chicago - in pictures

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LondonHouse

Nicholas James Fochtman

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Shanghai Terrace dim sum

Anthony Tahlier

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The Roister kitchen

Briseis Guthrie

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The Peninsula Chicago

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Dining at Alinea

Matthew Gilson

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Grace

Gourmet travellers are always looking for the next hot destination in which to dine — and Chicago has so much going on this year in its restaurant scene that it warrants every word and Instagram post devoted to what’s coming out of its kitchens. It might well be the most interesting city in the US in which to eat right now.

So where to begin? The radical overhaul and reopening of what many consider to be America’s best restaurant is a pretty good pearl-handled starting pistol. When Alinea slipped from ninth place down into the 20s in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants last year, chef Grant Achatz shut up shop, rebuilt it and took his team to Madrid while it was happening. The mothership reopened this summer and there was a frenzy for tickets (you don’t “reserve” a table for Alinea — you pay $700/£538 in advance for a tasting menu with the most basic of wine pairings).

If the new interior is borderline bland, dinner is anything but — as delicious as it is theatrical, with dishes themed on colours, presentations that play on aromas, and enough liquid nitrogen to furnish an Eighties hair-metal band video. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience and the restaurant has since risen to number 15 in the World’s 50 Best list. It’s justifiable; a plate of morels with lapsang, foie gras and shards of sweet blackberry “glass” is dazzling culinary alchemy.

If you can’t score, or stretch to, a ticket for Alinea, try Achatz’s new Roister, a noisier, more laid-back dining room, with plenty of culinary quirk to make it interesting, including a whole chicken flavoured with camomile, and wagyu with sea urchin butter.

When the documentary film For Grace appeared on Netflix after a tour of the festival circuit this March, it brought the world of Grace — chef Curtis Duffy’s three-Michelin-star restaurant— to a global audience. His cooking — which melds Vietnamese, Thai and recurrent sugary notes to create something gorgeously contemporary — is distinctive and beautiful.

There’s none of the mannered eccentricity of Alinea but many will prefer it for that very reason. The seafood elements are particularly strong — a single dish of kampachi sashimi, basil, citrus, trout roe and cashew might be the most delicious plate in the city.

Yet it’s not all about fine dining close to the banks of Lake Michigan. Take a wander around the happening and still largely Latino Humboldt Park area and brunch at the new Café Marie-Jeanne, which looks like a classic diner, with echoes of Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks (which hangs in the Art Institute of Chicago) but is also a deli and bakery. The smoked meats, charcuterie and sourdough are all superb.

At work: inside the Roister kitchen (Briseis Guthrie)

For a carb-free option, head to the café at fashion store Ikram, where kale, radishes and strawberries are combined to make salads as pretty as the rarefied fashions on sale.

Across the water from the mirrored dystopian flash of Trump International Tower, you’ll find LondonHouse, a 1920s landmark that has been given a 21st-century makeover, complete with tri-level rooftop bar. Its vantage point is rivalled only by Cindy’s, which looks out over Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate in Millennium Park. You’ll find it atop the Chicago Athletic Association, a historic building-turned-hotel (with self-explanatory back story) with a radical new interior by Manhattan’s à la mode Roman & Williams design studio.

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Some of the more officious staff at Cindy’s seem aware that they have a sensation on their hands (the food is excellent but reservations are essential unless you want to be sat in Siberia, staring angrily at better, emptier tables). Service is generally excellent. One thing that’s striking about Chicago is that people are usually friendly (infinitely more so than in New York City), even if restaurants sometimes overestimate the gravity of what they’re doing. That said, the fried green tomato and compressed watermelon salad is seriously good and beautiful to look at.

Dining at Alinea (Matthew Gilson)

At the Peninsula Hotel, which is as grande dame as things get in Chicago, the attitude is as sunny as it is polished. The waiting staff at Shanghai Terrace — every local’s favourite Chinese restaurant — ferry over foie gras and duck steamed dumplings (truly a wonder, as long as you’re on board with the first ingredient), cocktails accessorised with fans, and a plate of pork belly that looks like the pig has been spiralised into a modernist Mayan pyramid.

Chicago is a city definitely having a moment. It has a history of embracing the avant-garde — from the ground-breaking skyscrapers that line its river to the work on show at the Art Institute of Chicago. The city has long been a feast for the eyes, now it’s quite simply a feast, full stop.

30 places to visit before you turn 30

30 places to visit before you turn 30

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Click through our gallery to discover the places you should visit before you turn 30...

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1. Bali

Highland panoramas, scenic waterfalls, open blue skies, golden sunsets and awesome sunrises across the coastline. There’s a reason why people say that Bali stirs the soul.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Explore temples and palaces, go river rafting, sign up to a surf school, volunteer at an orangutan sanctuary, take a yoga class in the mountains and party all night. Best of all, it’s cheap - so you’ll be able to live like a king on a fortnight’s trip here.

Stephan Stansfield/Flickr

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2. Island hopping in Greece

If you’ve never made it to Greece, then schedule in some time to discover its lesser-known islands by boat. Go to big-hitters Santorini, Crete and Rhodes and and discover little-known gems Astypalea and Tinos.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because you can explore whitewashed cubic houses, lie on white hot sands, take a dip in the bath water-warm Aegean.

Shutterstock / Mikhail Gnatkovsk

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3. Myanmar

Until fairly recently, Myanmar was off limits to wanderlust Westerners. But after five decades of military rule, Asia’s formerly Junta-controlled diamond in the rough has finally opened its crystal shores to nirvana-seekers.

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4. Ibiza

No surprises here - the Island that never sleeps has long been one of the hottest places to play for people in their 20s. This hedonistic paradise is a lure for British clubbers drawn in by sun, sand and world-class DJs.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because nowhere does sunset chilling quite like Ibiza.

Shutterstock / FP media

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5. Croatia

Ancient walled towns, dreamy deep-blue seascapes, an unrivaled festival scene and guaranteed good weather. What’s not to love about Croatia?

Why go here before you turn 30?

Visit festival and wellness island Obonjan, go fun-seeking at Sonus, take a Game of Thrones tour, go white-water rafting, stroll around the museums in Zagreb or simply spend your days enjoying cocktail after cocktail on the beach.

Angus Webster

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6.Toronto, Canada

Forget Williamsburg, hipsters looking for a cultural injection should make a beeline for Canada’s largest city for art, food and dive bars by the dozen.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Ethnic enclaves, a bustling food scene and cool designer stays - there are plenty of reasons to discover Toronto.

Shutterstock / njene

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7. Pammukale, Turkey

Pamukkale is actually Turkish for “cotton castle”, which accurately sums up this amazing display of natural hot water pools in Denizli Province. The city is famous for its travertines - terraces of dazzling white carbonate minerals left by the flowing water that tourists can bathe in.

Why go here before you turn 30?

It'll make for one stunning Instagram.

Shutterstock / Copycat37

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8. Backpack through Southeast Asia

Southeast Asia is one of the most accessible regions for the novice traveller - thanks to its mix of volcanoes, rainforests, rice fields, beaches and coral reefs. Some popular stops include Chiang Mai in Thailand, Angkor Wat in Cambodia and Laos, Hanoi in Vietnam.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Explore thousand-year-old Hindu ruins, rave on the beach, attend a Buddhist ceremony at dawn and hike through the jungle looking for wildlife. The possibilities are endless.

Shutterstock / Lena Serditova

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9. Costa Rica

There’s plenty of time for gentle package holidays in your later years. This tiny Central American oasis is a twenty-something’s playground of wild beaches, rocky points, volcanoes, reefs, rare wildlife and spectacular rainforests.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because you can learn how to surf on the Nicoya peninsula, try truly amazing Costa Rican coffee, learn to speak Spanish, get lost on a hike in a rainforest, go white water rafting at Turrialba and see real life sloths, monkeys, crocodiles, ocelots and toucans.

Autentico Adventures Costa Rica/Flickr

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10. Tiger's Nest Monastery, Bhutan

William and Kate put this remote kingdom on the map earlier this year, and a trip here isn’t complete without paying a visit the the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Believed to be the birthplace of Bhuddism, the Monastery has been a place of pilgrimage since it was built in 1692.

Why go here before you turn 30?

The temple complex clings to a cliff, a dizzying 3120 meters above the sea level on the side of the upper Paro valley. If you want to take in the stunning views of blue pines and rhododendrons you’ll need fearless stamina to hike to the top.

Paula Bronstein/Getty Images

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11. Songkran Festival, Thailand

Songkran festival, or the Thai New Year, is three days of nonstop revelry. It’s celebrated across the country, with locals and tourists gathering in the streets with super soakers, water balloons and buckets of water one almighty water fight.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because who doesn’t love a water fight?

AFP/Getty Images

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12. Banff, Canada

This resort town is one of Canada's most popular tourist destinations, known for its mountainous surroundings and hot springs. A visit here offers the chance to experience the spectacular Canadian Rocky Mountains and glacier-fed lakes, bull elk and brown bear sightings, and small-town charm like no other.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because it’s some of the finest mountain scenery you’ll find on the planet.

Shutterstock / Songquan Deng

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13. Norway

Picturesque fjords, magical mountains, quaint coastal towns and the possibility of spotting the Northern Lights makes Norway a tempting trip for those on the hunt for natural beauty.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Visit trendy Oslo, discover magical lesser-known towns, stand on a gravity-defying boulder, sail around the fjords, stay in a fisherman’s cottage… you may even spot a polar bear.

Shutterstock / Carsten Pasternac

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14. Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, California

Rising nearly 5,000 feet above Yosemite Valley and 8,800 feet above sea level, Half Dome is one of the greatest hiking challenges a traveller can undertake. This granite dome sits at the eastern end of one of America’s most spectacular national parks.

Why go here before you turn 30?

The terrain is dramatic, the scenery is amazing, and it’s probably the single most iconic thing you can do in California.

Mark Ralston/AFP/Getty Images

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15. Iceland

This Nordic island nation isn’t far from the UK, but packs in astonishing natural phenomena and take-your-breath-away landscapes.

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16. The Inca Trail, Peru

The Inca Trail is by far the most famous trek in South America. In just 26 miles it manages to combine beautiful mountain scenery, lush cloud-forest, subtropical jungle and, of course, a stunning mix of Inca paving stones, ruins and tunnels.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because the final destination of the trail just cannot be beaten: Machu Picchu, the mysterious "Lost City of the Incas".

Brent Stirton/Getty Images

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17. Manchester, UK

The capital of The North might not strike as the most exotic of travel destination, but it’s giving London a run for its money thanks to a wealth of music and art history, smart fine dining restaurants, hipster neighbourhoods and a swathe of cool new boutique hotels.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because it's only 2 hours away by train from the capital.

Shutterstock / Tupungato

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18. India

The food alone is enough of a draw to India, but throw in palm-fringed beaches, one of the seven wonders of the world, forts, mosques, monuments and ancient ruins, and you have a holiday on that ticks all the boxes on your hands.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because you’ll want leave enough room to come back again and again over your lifetime.

Shutterstock / LukaKikina

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19. Berlin

Edgy, cool and creative, Berlin is one of the world’s best cities for boutique shopping, brilliantly offbeat nights out and hipster hangouts.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because it’s one of Europe’s most exciting cities.

Shutterstock / Claudio Divizia

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20. Melbourne, Australia

Whether you’re looking to party, simply kick-back on a beach or sample some of the best brunch in the world, Melbourne offers it all to young travellers and backpackers.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Australia’s coolest capital holds all kinds of attractions for people in their 20s, from bars and boutiques to clubs and cafes.

Shutterstock / GagliardiImages

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21. New Zealand

Undoubtedly one of the most spectacular places on earth, New Zealand is home to some incredibly unspoilt scenery. Make sure to take a decent camera, because stunning national parks and reserves make up a third of its land.

Why go here before you turn 30?

When else can you spend a whole month hiking its natural peaks and troughs?

Gareth Richman

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22. Carnival, Rio de Janeiro

Forget Notting Hill carnival: once a year, several million travellers descend on Rio to enjoy four days of parades and partying at the beginning of Lent.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Who wouldn’t want to be part of the biggest street party on the planet?

Raphael Dias/Getty Images

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23. The Great Wall of China

As the famous Chinese saying goes, 'he who does not reach the Great Wall is not a true man'. This great engineering marvel winds up and down across deserts, grasslands, mountains and plateaus, stretching across over 13,000 miles.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because your 20s aren’t just for partying and frolicking...

AFP/Getty Images

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24. Burning Man Festival, Nevada

Every year, tens of thousands of people gather in Nevada’s Black Rock Desert to create ‘Black Rock City’, a temporary festival of art, hedonism and self-expression.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because it’s the most outrageous festival of all: alongside meditation and yoga there’s spanking classes, orgies, and naked foam parties. Chances are, you’ll only want to get involved when you’re young enough not to regret it.

Duncan Rawlinson/Flickr

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25. Antelope Canyon, Arizona

Located just outside of Page, in the heart of Navajo Country, Antelope may just be the most photographed slot canyon in the world - thanks to its awe-inspiring, sandstone formations.

Why go here before you turn 30?

The celestial light beams in the canyon make this place completely unforgettable and unmissable.

AFP/Getty Images

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26. Pacific Coast Highway, California

The PCH is a road trip-lover’s dream, with its winding ribbon roads that meander alongside the crashing Cali coast from Carmel to Morro Bay. The 123-mile route takes in Big Sur and the much photographed Bixby Bridge, as well as five hours of cliff-hugging open road.

Why go here before you turn 30?

The all-American road has been voted one of the top motorcycle rides in the U.S - it’s basically the drive of a lifetime, but you’ll enjoy the freedom most on two wheels.

Howard Ignatius/Flickr

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27. Bosnia & Herzegovina

Turquoise rivers, medieval castles and tumbling waterfalls. It sounds like something out of a fairytale, but the craggily beautiful lands of Bosnia and Herzegovina are real - and they’re one of Europe’s best kept secrets.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because there are few places in the world where you can enjoy hiking, beautiful countryside, rafting and swimming, inner-city bridge jumping and skiing all within one country.

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28. Tokyo, Japan

Japan’s busy capital shouldn’t be overlooked - as well as providing endless Instagram opportunities, it manages to pack in both the ultramodern and the traditional - from neon-lit skyscrapers to historic temples.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because you can sleep in a capsule, walk across the beautiful Tokyo bay, spend hours in an multi-storey arcade, slurp down some heavenly ramen and spend hours strolling through the brightly-lit streets.

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29. Osea Island, Essex

On Osea Island, they know how to throw a party. Located in the middle of Essex’s Blackwater Estuary, the private island – which is only accessible by boat, helicopter or car at low tide – boasts four and a half miles of its own beaches and coastline perfect for social gatherings.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Because you can throw the most incredible weekend parties here.

Alamy Stock Photo

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30. Las Vegas, Nevada

Live like a celebrity for amongst the glitz and glitter of one of the world’s most famous strips.

Why go here before you turn 30?

Win big at a casino, take in a cirque production, party all night, go four-wheeling in the surrounding national parks… just make sure you don’t accidentally get hitched.

Shutterstock / Don Mammoser

Details: Chicago

British Airways (ba.com) flies from Heathrow to Chicago twice daily, with fares from £541 return.