I have used the same idea as your slot in the rod but I use a 1/2 or 7/16 hardwood dowel with a slot cut in the dowel and emery cloth , works pretty good too. can't wait to see it with all the carbs.
Rich

I have used the same idea as your slot in the rod but I use a 1/2 or 7/16 hardwood dowel with a slot cut in the dowel and emery cloth , works pretty good too. can't wait to see it with all the carbs.
Rich

The hardwood dowel is a good tip. If you wear out the buffing insert on mine it does mar the surface a little.

All 9 carbs are cleaned up but disassembled and the six best ones have new shafts. I would have liked to chrome them but it was too much $$s. I painted them silver with ceramic paint (poof can). I also bought kits and new stainless screws for them. If I actually use this setup I'll have to decide if I want to run off of just two carbs or all six. Then I'll have to buy the appropriate power valves, linkage, fuel lines and air cleaners. We'll see.

If you're really bored you can look at the attached spreadsheet to see the hodge-podge of 94s I'm working with...

I've been away for a while but I've been busy on car-related stuff. I wanted to wait until the 6-deuce setup was finished until I posted more on it, but it looks like I'll be waiting for a while for the banjo fuel fittings from Blundell Speed. I also need to build the linkage since the one I want is $481.00 (Stromberg-97.com) Here are a few pics:

I've also built an engine test stand recently. I looked at several versions on the internet, then picked the features I wanted. Ability to disassemble and store was important. The frame and motor mount supports are 1-1/2" square tube, 3/16". Most of the rest is 1" angle. If anyone's interested I'll post my drawings.

All that's left is the wiring on the engine stand, so now my attention is on the engine. I wasn't satisfied with the paint on the block/heads. It was way darker than the frame because I shot the enamel right onto the cast iron. The MAWs took over. I needed to rough up the paint and I didn't want too much build-up (had 3 coats of enamel on it), so I ground off the rough surface, smoothing the castings:

Since I had minor problems keeping debris out of the heads I ended up taking them off and disassembling them for a good cleanup. (Unfortunately the valves had already been adjusted, so there went another hour.) Here they are, sporting stainless valves:

The clear on the intake's virgin casting looked crappy too, so I re-blasted it and am in the process of polishing it:

Once the engine is assembled I'll turn my attention back to the engine stand wiring, then mount the engine and fire it up! Unfortunately, the weather isn't cooperating. It's sleeting here as I write.

Oh yeah, almost forgot...the doors and fenders are in primer, protected from the elements:

The cab is also 80% sand blasted, with only the back and headliner areas to do.

Hey, thanks! When we built our own house in 2001 I convinced the wife I needed a good table saw. I have trouble finding metal-cutting blades for it though, so I can do sheet metal work on it. I go from the ridiculous to the sublime on tools. That homemade thing behind the saw with the 100-year old wash machine motor on it is my buffer.

And good luck tuning all those carbs. It may be better as an ornament unless you have a lot of time and patience. It sure looks good though.

Thanks for the good words. I've had them since the early 80s. Luck may be what it takes to tune 'em! Years ago I used a flow device called an Uni-Syn to synchronize 3 SU carbs on a 4.2 liter Jag. I may have to get something similar if I fill those gizmos up with fuel.

that 6 carb setup would look nice under the hood but tuning it would be a nightmare
there was an article in a hot rod mag where someone converted a similar manifold to efi, very stealth setup

it does look good though
frame looks good with paint on it too

Thanks for the encouragement Ogre, and good to hear from you! I finished my '55 sedan in 1981. It has 3 tired deuces on it, so I might just pop the 12-pack on it. If it runs good I could shift it over to the truck.

Been forever since I've seen a Uni-syn. Old friend of mine's dad is a bike mechanic and has one. They're fun to play with. Carb setup looks tight! Love the Test stand!

Thanks for the kudos, Low Elco. I think my carb decision has been made for me. It doesn't look like they'll fit with the alternator bracket I bought, so I'm probably going with the single 4bbl. As I said, maybe I'll put that gaggle of deuces on my sedan.

That would be a REALLY trick setup! I've liked the Webers ever since I rebuilt my buddy's Fiat 124 Spyder carb in 1970. Great design. If Fiat (F.I.A.T. = Fix It Again, Tony) ever made a good car, the 124 may have been it. (My manifold is an Offenhauser Pacesetter 3924.)

With spring popping its head up now and then I've been getting crushed by an ever-expanding honeydew list. Tomorrow I'll be planting about a half acre of grass, raking it in and spreading the straw. Ugh.

But I have gotten a few hours in on the TF. About 2 years ago I bought a lightly used Edelbrock 1405 from a young kid for $60. He said it had 50 miles on it, and that seems to be about right. However, one side was really sooty, like it had been backfiring. I figured it would have stripped threads, bent metering rods, etc., but that it would be good for parts. He had to be selling it cheap for some reason. So I tore into it, and sure enough, one of the throttle plates was bent. Never saw that before. I pulled the plate, straightened it, cleaned everything up and reassembled it. No parts needed.

Last year I had cleared the Performer RPM manifold (a $40 swap find) but I wasn't happy with it. A few weeks ago I blasted the clear off and started the polish job. 36 grit sanding discs & rolls, then 180 discs & rolls, then 220 with the "flapper" (see post #73), popsicle stick and tongue depressor. Then I went to P500, then 400. I hit it with a little white buffing compound and decided that more blocking was needed. Back to the 220 in selected areas. Before I went any farther I thought I'd fit up some of the accessories on the engine to see if there was any interference, and to see if there were areas that would be covered up:

I've got the normal problems like pulleys not lining up and things being in the way of temp sensors, but the real problem was the Autometer oil pressure sender. It wouldn't fit in the front because of the accessory bracket...

...and it wouldn't fit in the port above the oil filter because of the headers. That left the port in the rear next to the distributor. Edelbrock had the right idea by leaving a small pocket for a sender but the pocket wasn't big enough:

So I'm in the process of making my own pocket. Since everything else fits I'll finish off the polishing and start working my way towards fire-up in the engine test stand.

In my spare time I've been working on the '55 sedan in hopes of driving it to the Cincy Street Rods dance on April 26th. The 4-wheel discs are on, the beast is kinda cleaned up, and I should be able to ride in style!

That's it for tonight. I'll be back when the engine is on the test stand.

Can't you use a 1/8 pipe extension on the sending unit? or a 45 deg coupling? I have done that before, Nice looking coupe.
Rich

I would have liked to, but I only have only about 1/4" before it hits the HEI. A 45-degree coupling would have worked but I was concerned about vibration causing a fracture at the male fitting. It was no big deal to enlarge the pocket though. Got it done this morning. Thanks for trying to help! Thanks also for the compliment on the BelAir. She was re-born in 1981 and has held up pretty well.