“That’s where Indian restaurants go wrong. They start off firing on all cylinders then they can’t deliver.

“It has to be done in a loving, friendly way and people hear about you by word of mouth.”

It seems to have worked: after three weeks the place had already got its regulars.

Nadeem may be only 25 but he’s been in the business 13 years, starting as the poppadom boy at Broomhill’s Balti King. He’s put in six years at the Ashoka, further down Ecclesall Road, been involved in the Cutlers Spice and helped to open the new Butler’s Balti.

Mumbai is a smart, bright, modern-looking restaurant with 50 seats on two floors. Walls are in white with relief in orange and green and striking Asian pictures. Flock wallpaper is so last century.

There are posh plates, purple runners over white tablecloths and proper napkins.

It is licensed, with a bar, staffed by a girl. Mumbai has three for different nights.

Now that’s a sign of modernity for Indian restaurants, women on the staff.

Another feature of the Mumbai is the pickle tray. You get eight varieties.

When I started in this game there were usually three: yoghurt, onions and mint, and mango, although some places upped the ante with a fourth, hot, one.

Lately it’s become a sort of chutney challenge or pickles poker: someone adds, say, tamarind chutney, and another place matches it and raises with a date and coconut relish.

The only other restaurant I know with eight is Zara’s in Crookes. Soon you won’t be able to see the table for pickles.

At Mumbai you get onion and mint, minty yoghurt, fiery tomato, pineapple, mango and black pepper, as well as chilli, mixed and lime pickles. I tried them all: my vote is for the pineapple.

Pickles and pops come free, which we followed with pleasantly spiced aloo chat, potato cakes (£2.95), and mildly zingy fish pakoras (£3.50), both with salads which contained olives.

Odd but perhaps not for too long: Rajasthan is planning its own olive groves.

We thought we might as well let Nadeem suggest a dish and he recommended the Shahi Mumbai, at £8.95 one of the most expensive (specials come in at £8.50, other mains around £6.50-£7.95).

Ironically it was the least successful because this sizzler of chicken and lamb tikka, king prawns with vegetables in a minced lamb sauce had too many contrasting flavours. We preferred the lamb roghan josh (£6.50), an old favourite from my teens, after a vindaloo taught me that heat drowns subtlety of spicing. This had decent lamb in a rich sauce with smoky overtones.

The best, though, was our tarka daal side (£3.50). “How do you like it, thick or thin?” said Nadeem. Thicker, apparently, means spicier.

According to the national press daals are the latest foodie fashion. We’ve made and enjoyed them for ages.

The grainy texture is one attraction. Here the lentils kept their shape. The final tempering with fried spices gave it a Bonfire Night finish.

Head chef Mohammed Rizwan also does a fine Peshwari nan (£2.80). “And how would you like that, lightly or well done?” asked Nadeem. You get the choice. Pilau rice (£2.50) rounded off our mains.

There is at least one traditional dessert. We shared sweet rice (£2.95), best described as rice pudding without the milk but with a touch of halva, flavoured with cardamom and pistachio. Interesting.

We enjoyed our night with good food and a little bit of love from Nadeem.