Driving over 200,000 miles on WVO in central Florida.
1985 Mercedes 300sd - single tank.
The used WVO used filtered through a layer of old bed sheets into a 55 gallon drum, settled then filtered through 3 progressively finer filters down to 2 microns.
Even in summer I would use at least 5% gasoline as a solvent.
Winter 10%, on the coldest days it would not start right up, I wouldn't even bother to try to start on the rare 0c degree day.
Used a large truck 2-5 micron fuel filter/ water separator on the car + stock filters.
Carry spare filters especially when you begin, they will clog up full of crap from the tank.
IBM used to pay me about $0.50 a mile, some weeks I would make $250.
Car was sold for what I paid - $1500 a few year later.
1983 Mercedes 300d bought not running in 2007 with 2 tank system @ 207,000 miles, but I only used as single tank, replaced injection pump still starts right up today @ 349,000 miles.
Installed 15 gallon boat tank in trunk, longest trip on WVO only was over 1200+ miles one way, with 4 cubes on back seat floor. Refilled with filtered WVO in Minneapolis from Craigslist drove back.
You need to find someone with a similar climate to you for tips, winter is not the time to start using vegetable oil! You will have filters clogging up and hard starting.
I don't have access to WVO since I moved, and my most recent 1700 mile trip 2 weeks ago in my 2006 Jetta TDi was 44.3 mpg at 80mpg, so I don't bother anymore.

Driving over 200,000 miles on WVO in central Florida.
1985 Mercedes 300sd - single tank.
The used WVO used filtered through a layer of old bed sheets into a 55 gallon drum, settled then filtered through 3 progressively finer filters down to 2 microns.
Even in summer I would use at least 5% gasoline as a solvent.
Winter 10%, on the coldest days it would not start right up, I wouldn't even bother to try to start on the rare 0c degree day.
Used a large truck 2-5 micron fuel filter/ water separator on the car + stock filters.
Carry spare filters especially when you begin, they will clog up full of crap from the tank.
IBM used to pay me about $0.50 a mile, some weeks I would make $250.
Car was sold for what I paid - $1500 a few year later.
1983 Mercedes 300d bought not running in 2007 with 2 tank system @ 207,000 miles, but I only used as single tank, replaced injection pump still starts right up today @ 349,000 miles.
Installed 15 gallon boat tank in trunk, longest trip on WVO only was over 1200+ miles one way, with 4 cubes on back seat floor. Refilled with filtered WVO in Minneapolis from Craigslist drove back.
You need to find someone with a similar climate to you for tips, winter is not the time to start using vegetable oil! You will have filters clogging up and hard starting.
I don't have access to WVO since I moved, and my most recent 1700 mile trip 2 weeks ago in my 2006 Jetta TDi was 44.3 mpg at 80mpg, so I don't bother anymore.

200,000 miles on the WVO? The indirect injection and bosch pump did not bother you, did you? Do you use 90% WWO 10% gasoline during winter season? I'll start to use it in winter. Therefore I will buy two heating pillows. (12 volts 200 watt):güzel: I'il wrap one in the diesel filter. I'll put one in the fuel tank. I'll carry a spare fuel filter. That's a good idea. Also, should I use a water separator filter? Or is it enough to heat the vegetable oil before putting it in storage? Thank you very much for your advice. I'll apply them all.

I think that’s an indirect injection engine he’s talking about, in the old Mercedes. Those cars are incredibly tolerant of fuel, and seem to burn almost anything. I assume they must be fairly common in Turkey?

Filtering is very important, and when you figure it out you can go a long time on a filter. I knew a guy who never, ever changed his on board filter because he got the oil so clean. I cold usually go 40 - 50,000 miles on a filter. But if you are not filtering well, you might get 5,000 miles or even much less.

Heating the oil, then letting it settle, should take care of your water. You will want to have a drain at the bottom of your container, and draw the oil for the car from at least a few inches above the bottom. Once in a while drain the bottom to get the water and sediment out. I found that the longer the oil settles, the cleaner it gets. A few weeks is good; a few months is much better.

You are wise to carry a spare filter, maybe even a few. Also make sure you know how to change it before you have to do it on the road at night in the rain while your wife is telling you what a stupid idea this WVO thing is.

WVO can aslo allow algae to grow in it (diesel can too). I always added a few drops of a product called “Valvtect Bioguard”. I don’t know if it is available in Turkey, but someone must sell a similar product. Farm or marine suppply stores sell it here. If you do get algae growing, it can clog your filter in just few miles.

I think that’s an indirect injection engine he’s talking about, in the old Mercedes. Those cars are incredibly tolerant of fuel, and seem to burn almost anything. I assume they must be fairly common in Turkey?
Filtering is very important, and when you figure it out you can go a long time on a filter. I knew a guy who never, ever changed his on board filter because he got the oil so clean. I cold usually go 40 - 50,000 miles on a filter. But if you are not filtering well, you might get 5,000 miles or even much less.
Heating the oil, then letting it settle, should take care of your water. You will want to have a drain at the bottom of your container, and draw the oil for the car from at least a few inches above the bottom. Once in a while drain the bottom to get the water and sediment out. I found that the longer the oil settles, the cleaner it gets. A few weeks is good; a few months is much better.
You are wise to carry a spare filter, maybe even a few. Also make sure you know how to change it before you have to do it on the road at night in the rain while your wife is telling you what a stupid idea this WVO thing is.
WVO can aslo allow algae to grow in it (diesel can too). I always added a few drops of a product called “Valvtect Bioguard”. I don’t know if it is available in Turkey, but someone must sell a similar product. Farm or marine suppply stores sell it here. If you do get algae growing, it can clog your filter in just few miles.

Mercedes is very well in this regard. I know that. It is common in Turkey. But; old models, brand fans are riding. I use jeans and a women's sock for filtration. I'll save the money and buy dual tank system.

I have to change the fuel filter very often at first. Is 5000 km good? (3000 miles) I have to take a lot of the fuel filter.

Is it enough to heat waste vegetable oil dewatering? Because I picked up waste vegetable oil and it's all like soap. Because it is water inside, the waste vegetable oil quickly freezes. If I evaporate the water, the problem is solved?

Changing the filter is not difficult. In college, I learned gasoline and diesel engines. (I am an engine department teacher in Turkey, unfortunately they do not need me.)

I did not know that it would be algae in vegetable oil. I would definitely use medication for moss. Thank you very much for the suggestion.

Different oils will turn solid at higher temperatures. At room temperature, most cooking oils, like canola or olive oil, will be liquid. But oils like butter or margarine, or shortening, will be solid. Is it possible you have one of those oils? If so, it will be very hard to burn in the car without a heated tank, filter and fuel lines.

If you have a lot of water in the oil, you could evaporate it by boiling it, but it will take a long time and use a lot of energy. You could just heat it enough to make it liquid, then let the water settle to the bottom. But if there is a lot of water, this will also take a long time. The car will not like any water in the fuel, so do make sure you get rid of it.

One way to test for water is to add a little oil to a frying pan and heat it up. If it just gets hot and then smokes, there isn’t much water. If it starts sizzling and popping, you probably have too much water.

Is it possible the restaurant is washing the fryer and dumping everyting together, the oil and the wash water? Could you convince them to drain the oil first, then wash the fryer into a different container?

Different oils will turn solid at higher temperatures. At room temperature, most cooking oils, like canola or olive oil, will be liquid. But oils like butter or margarine, or shortening, will be solid. Is it possible you have one of those oils? If so, it will be very hard to burn in the car without a heated tank, filter and fuel lines.
If you have a lot of water in the oil, you could evaporate it by boiling it, but it will take a long time and use a lot of energy. You could just heat it enough to make it liquid, then let the water settle to the bottom. But if there is a lot of water, this will also take a long time. The car will not like any water in the fuel, so do make sure you get rid of it.
One way to test for water is to add a little oil to a frying pan and heat it up. If it just gets hot and then smokes, there isn’t much water. If it starts sizzling and popping, you probably have too much water.
Is it possible the restaurant is washing the fryer and dumping everyting together, the oil and the wash water? Could you convince them to drain the oil first, then wash the fryer into a different container?

I bought a frying pan. In the hot room, the oil is melting.
When the air gets cold, the oil freezes. I will do the test as soon as possible. I will share the result. I'll talk to the cafe owner. I wonder if they can accumulate in anhydrous form.

Mix your oil with baking soda to help with settling out the water. I put 1 lb (~0.5 kg) of baking soda to every 5 gal (~20 liters) of oil. I mix with a paint mixer and let it settle for about a week then pour off the oil leaving the baking soda at the bottom. I just throw away the baking soda afterwards.

I tried the WVO in my 82 MB 300D. I did the same, using Regular gasoline at 10%. Here is a way to test your oils. Refrigerator, and also the freezer. Even good old peanut oil will solidify in the freezer, and also gel in the fridge. the 90% oil and 10% RUG, that did not happen

Mix your oil with baking soda to help with settling out the water. I put 1 lb (~0.5 kg) of baking soda to every 5 gal (~20 liters) of oil. I mix with a paint mixer and let it settle for about a week then pour off the oil leaving the baking soda at the bottom. I just throw away the baking soda afterwards.

I will try the recipe. I never heard that. But, I threw the frozen fat into the frying pan. I did not hear a sizzling sound. Waste vegetable oil did not leap. I understand that there is no water.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

I tried the WVO in my 82 MB 300D. I did the same, using Regular gasoline at 10%. Here is a way to test your oils. Refrigerator, and also the freezer. Even good old peanut oil will solidify in the freezer, and also gel in the fridge. the 90% oil and 10% RUG, that did not happen

The vegetable oils I bought from the restaurant are frozen immediately. The air temperature starts to gel when it is +5 degrees Celsius. I do not have to be scared, do I? If I put it in the fridge, it will freeze immediately. But I will mix it with unleaded gasoline. (90% WVO, 10% gasoline)
rrgrassi, I will try the recipe.