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Tips to Repair Electric Windows

Electric Window Repair Tips

The most obvious fault with electric windows is that they fail to operate. If the problem occurs on all windows you can be pretty sure that the fault is in the main wiring circuit, and this is also the region to check first even if the problem is restricted to just one window. Try listening to see if you can hear the motor operating – if it is, but the window does not move, the problem lies in the mechanical linkage.

Jerky or slow operation and mechanical noise point to a problem with the mechanism, window guides or drive motor of the window concerned – the fact that the window is partially working shows that the electric circuit is complete.

Jamming part way through the motion is probably due to the window or the mechanism guides, and if there are rattles from the door the window guides may be loose.

Keep it safe

As with all electrical equipment you need to take care when making tests to ensure that you do not short the power supply to earth. The circuits for electric windows are designed to carry very high currents so a lot of damage could be caused before the protecting fuse blows.

To avoid the risk of accidentally operating the winder motor while you are dismantling the window mechanism, disconnect the battery leads before you start work.

If you need to operate the window as part of your checks, take particular care to make sure that nothing gets trapped– the scissor action of a typical lever mechanism could easily remove the end of a finger.

Erratic operation, with the window working perfectly sometimes and then playing up, is most likely due to an intermittent electrical fault, such as a loose connection.

Check the fuse

If the windows refuse to operate, most window circuits are protected by a fuse or cutout in the supply line and this is the first place to check. With some arrangements a single fuse in the main supply line is used to protect the complete window system so a failure here affects all the windows. Other cars have individual fuses for each window motor so failure will only affect the one window.

In some cars the fuse is in the main fuse box but many makers use in-line fuses so check with your manual to find where the fuse is and replace it if blown. Instead of a fuse the system may be fitted with a circuit breaker.

Test the window. If it works properly the fuse probably blew (or the cutout tripped) due to a temporary overload. If the new fuse blows immediately you will have to investigate further.

Power supply check

Generally the power for the window circuits (which draw a large current) is supplied direct from the battery through a relay (or relays) actuated by turning the ignition on. Find the relay position from your car handbook.

If there isn’t any the problem lies in the wiring from the ignition switch. Test the output side of the relay – current means the relay is faulty and should be replaced, otherwise the problem lies in the control switches, the motor or the wiring itself.