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Don't know the speakers but if they say 4 ohms on them then yes set the amp to that also
I would say 200 is to high a crossover . Why don't you run the set up with the mike and let the amp work it out for you

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I'm getting toooo much bass out of the Aviano 8 L&R, so spoke to guy in richers sounds and he says that try 150Hz, did that , tried 200 Hz and brill, jus coz I'm getting too much bass before, manual of all speakers says that they respond from 35Hz-22KHz so that's not bad or damaging to the speakers is it @ 200Hz??????

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Onkyo instruction says set to 4 ohms if speakers is more then 4 but less then 6 ohms, the other setting is 6 ohms which states that set to 6 ohms If it's more then 6 but less then 16???? , richer sounds dude set to 6 ohms, and yea died the audiossy, and the ohms did show 6 ohms but I don't know if that's default??? What's you think lads????

Standard Member

Onkyo instruction says set to 4 ohms if speakers is more then 4 but less then 6 ohms, the other setting is 6 ohms which states that set to 6 ohms If it's more then 6 but less then 16???? , richer sounds dude set to 6 ohms, and yea died the audiossy, and the ohms did show 6 ohms but I don't know if that's default??? What's you think lads????

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My MS Avant 902s are rated at 4-8ohms, and I used the 6ohms setting (which is for 6-16ohms). Tone sounds good and pleased with the performance when the volume is set to around 70.

Setting to 4 ohm will increase the power use to push the speakers (I believe) as the load is harder to drive.

I did read that for MS you should use the 6ohm setting as they are really 8ohms (even though the specs say 4-8ohms) - cant remember where I saw that though.

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Is it ok that I set all speakers to 200Hz? It can operate within that frequency no prob right as manual says 35-22KHz (which is 22000hz if I'm reading the units right? so it's not gonna damage any of my speakers or the amp is it please verify mediamaff?

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Not sure about the first part of your post but regards the skip then no, it does not appear on the same place. If it does then that is a fault in the movie

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Just researched 24p smooth frame. The panasonics can insert additional frame rates up to 96 fps (by software of course). Probably called something else with other manufacturers. So what i was seeing was the limitations of 24fps (picture shake/blur with moving images). Still haven't noticed any frame skipping/dropping though, maybe my setup? Is your tv setup to display 24fps or is it trying to add additional frames.

Standard Member

Is it ok that I set all speakers to 200Hz? It can operate within that frequency no prob right as manual says 35-22KHz (which is 22000hz if I'm reading the units right? so it's not gonna damage any of my speakers or the amp is it please verify mediamaff?

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*This is based on my understanding - happy to be corrected*

I believe the crossover is the frequency at which the amp redirects the output to your sub, rather than to the speakers. So with a setting of 200Hz, everything below goes to the sub, everything above to the speakers.

I dont have a sub (yet - need to talk to the wife about it), so my 902s handle the full range. Must admit - I've always been impressed with the handling of low frequency with the 902s

What governs this setting is the frequency range covered by the sub versus that of your speakers and which you'd prefer to cover which range. What you want to avoid is a "hole", eg sub covers up to 180Hz, if you set to 200Hz, you have a "hole" between 180-200Hz where there would be no output. The Aviano sub covers up to 200Hz though - so sounds like that is the right setting.

How do the Aviano's sound?

I like MS, but quite keen on the Monitor Audio BX and the wife likes the looks of the MAs, over the Avianos.

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Thanks for speediant reply, just to note all speakers are at 200Hz, however I left the sub as it is in order to promote and handle PURE LOW FREQUENCY management (bass) is that all good in your books???

The MORDAUNT SHORT AVIANO range is magnificent, I wanted ultimate quality reproduction for movies, games and music and finally I have achieved this. Aesthetically pleasing 2nd to none in performance and looks.

Standard Member

I'm looking for some help with my Panasonic TH-46PZ80O Viera plasma TV. We've recently added an Onkyo TX-NR609 to our home system (replacing a Sony STR-DH800) and we've found that once we power down the receiver, the TV will go off as normal (set to auto-off). Then, as we turn on the receiver the TV will automatically go on stand-by mode. It will click on, but the red indicator light will blink 10 times in sequence and nothing else will happen.

At first, we thought our power supply was shot, after reading a few random posts. Trying not to freak out, I unplugged the TV and found that if we remove both the power cord from the outlet and the HDMI cable from the receiver, reattach everything and power on the TV, it would work normally.

So far, I've been unable to solve this problem, I've tried toggling the power options on the TV and the receiver (also tried the RIHD options), I've tried disconnecting other inputs from the receiver as well as powering down only the TV etc. yet we're still getting the 10 blinking lights on power-up. We've resorted to leaving the TV on and just powering down the receiver to avoid having to unplug/replug everything. All the other components work just fine.

Currently the following inputs are connected to the receiver, all HDMI
Panasonic Blu-ray Player
Xbox 360
Scientific Atlantic cable box

I'm using HDMI 1.4 cables for all inputs (purchased from Monoprice if that helps)

The receiver itself is connected to our router and has fully updated firmware.

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It's the onkyo Remote2 I'm using. There has just been an update to the app to say that it will control spotify (once the firmware has been updated) so I want to persevere with that first before I spend the £3 on oRemote.

Does oRemote have many more features than Onkyo Remote2 or is it just a bit quicker?

Active Member

Is it ok that I set all speakers to 200Hz? It can operate within that frequency no prob right as manual says 35-22KHz (which is 22000hz if I'm reading the units right? so it's not gonna damage any of my speakers or the amp is it please verify mediamaff?

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Your speakers can do 35hz-22khz. You probably want to set your crossovers to be somewhere in the 40hz-50hz range, so that anything below 40-50hz is sent to your sub (technically you could set the crossover to be 35hz, but you don't want to cut it that close). 22khz is the other end of the spectrum, - the high-end sounds.

Active Member

THX reccomendation is actually for all crossovers to be at 80hz or above. Even if your speakers can do sub-80hz they have to move a lot of air to produce sounds at volume down in that range so if you have a decent sub you're better off letting it do it.

Active Member

Interesting article but we are not discussing judder but frame drop/skip. i only downloaded the judder test as it has a constant scrolling of vertical bars so should be simular to the credits check but was hoping it would be a referenc and something we could all try.

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Well you're calling it frame drop/skip, I'm just qustioning whether it is. If you can't see it on horizontal scrolling lines then it doesn't look like it is dropping frames does it? If the Onkyo can't pass through a 24p signal then you should see it on everything, if its only some sources / content show it then that raises questions for me. I don't really see how just the presence of audio should affect that.

You seem to have decided that the Onkyo is faulty and is dropping frames without any real proof for either. Your efforts all now seem to be focused on proving the Onkyo is faulty rather than diagnosing / fixing / dealing with the problem.

It may well be the Onkyo is faulty, but assuming its an Onkyo fault (and that you know what that fault is) isn't going to get you anywhere. If you're unwilling to accept the fault may be elsewhere you need to get rid of the Onkyo / find a work around because nothing you do is going to get Onkyo to change a receiver most people are perfectly happy with.

Active Member

It's the onkyo Remote2 I'm using. There has just been an update to the app to say that it will control spotify (once the firmware has been updated) so I want to persevere with that first before I spend the £3 on oRemote.

Does oRemote have many more features than Onkyo Remote2 or is it just a bit quicker?

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Oremote is just a copy of the actual onkyo remote with the display panel of the reciever at the top of the screen ,the onkyo remote 2 is very basic but better for quick tweaks, ie center speaker ,bass ect.
The oremote has the full functionality of the onkyo remote with the added function of the onkyo display which comes in handy when the reciever is out of sight ,and in my opinion is far superior to onkyos feeble effort.

Active Member

Your speakers can do 35hz-22khz. You probably want to set your crossovers to be somewhere in the 40hz-50hz range, so that anything below 40-50hz is sent to your sub (technically you could set the crossover to be 35hz, but you don't want to cut it that close). 22khz is the other end of the spectrum, - the high-end sounds.

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All crossedover to 200 Hz, jus getting burden bass from left & right, sub Aviano 7 is doing LF, turned down alot stil as tooooo much bass, don't think I should reduce cross over low but keep them high is that right?????

Active Member

THX reccomendation is actually for all crossovers to be at 80hz or above. Even if your speakers can do sub-80hz they have to move a lot of air to produce sounds at volume down in that range so if you have a decent sub you're better off letting it do it.

Active Member

All the speakers after audiossy calibration were at 40 Hz, so massive bass, overpowering, sounded so much more clearer and translucent by truncating the field sound by increasing the crossover from 40Hz to 200Hz &#128522;

Active Member

THX reccomendation is actually for all crossovers to be at 80hz or above. Even if your speakers can do sub-80hz they have to move a lot of air to produce sounds at volume down in that range so if you have a decent sub you're better off letting it do it.

All the speakers after audiossy calibration were at 40 Hz, so massive bass, overpowering, sounded so much more clearer and translucent by truncating the field sound by increasing the crossover from 40Hz to 200Hz &#55357;&#56842;

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200hz is just.... silly, for front speakers.

Also like to point out that the test-tones, in my experience, don't work very well. The microphone picks up the most ridiculous information, e.g. my speakers are way closer/further away than they really are, my sub needs to be almost OFF to be "correct," etc.

Member

Thanks for speediant reply, just to note all speakers are at 200Hz, however I left the sub as it is in order to promote and handle PURE LOW FREQUENCY management (bass) is that all good in your books???

The MORDAUNT SHORT AVIANO range is magnificent, I wanted ultimate quality reproduction for movies, games and music and finally I have achieved this. Aesthetically pleasing 2nd to none in performance and looks.

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I just wanted to let you know that your speakers will be sounding **** at the moment, the reason I say this is they take ages and ages to run in I think my avants took around 3 months to properly open up, I love mordaunt short I'm thinking of getting avianos for the front and using the avants for rears. If your happy with them just now wait till there properly run in then run your setup mic again and you will be utterly blown away!

Just to add your setting your crossover way to high if the bass is overpowering try turning the sub down at the back. Audysey may be wrong because the speakers ain't run in yet they do take ages to run in!

Member

I just wanted to say I wasn't impressed with this amp out the box for music, movies were great but music always sounded very flat/horrid for me so I just used my 23 year old technics for music and it wiped the floor with the onkyo anyway after using the thing for the last two months and loving the quality of films I thought I would try hooking up my Nad cd player again and seeing if it had improved after being run in. Well bloody hell it's superb now all the reviews pretty much slated it's audio quality I don't think they allowed for run in times because you really can not fault this amp for sound quality with music or films... I think this is a true all rounder...

Active Member

I'm sure an update will sort that out.. I don't use it anyway so can't comment on it>>

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I doubt an update will come out to fix it, since it's been an issue for over half a year (since the xxx9 release), and it was an issue even on the xxx8 series! Apparently you could fix it on the xxx8 series by turning off video processing. That fix doesn't work on the xxx9 series, sadly.

'If you can't see it on horizontal scrolling lines then it doesn't look like it is dropping frames does it?'

yes it can if the problem is tied to audio/video sync

'If the Onkyo can't pass through a 24p signal then you should see it on everything

It IS on all 24p material and NO you wont see it on 50/60p stuff

'if its only some sources / content show it then that raises questions for me'

its on ALL sources and content that are 24p

'I don't really see how just the presence of audio should affect that.'

as said if its a AV sync problem then that is exactly what would effect it

'You seem to have decided that the Onkyo is faulty and is dropping frames without any real proof for either'.

proof is that without the ONKYO in the video chain all is fine despite source, display or amp settings

'Your efforts all now seem to be focused on proving the Onkyo is faulty rather than diagnosing / fixing / dealing with the problem.'

I have proved 'My' ONKYO is faulty and so have others. I am looking for a fix from ONKYO themselves thus dealing with the problem

It may well be the Onkyo is faulty, but assuming its an Onkyo fault (and that you know what that fault is) isn't going to get you anywhere'.

it IS an ONKYO fault which is 'it wont pass 24p material without interfering with it' and i would hope it would get me either a new ONKYO, a software fix or a refund

'If you're unwilling to accept the fault may be elsewhere you need to get rid of the Onkyo / find a work around because nothing you do is going to get Onkyo to change a receiver most people are perfectly happy with'

I would be prepared but accept it was elswhere if there was ANY posability it could be but ALL diagnostics prove otherwise
there is a work around which is to send video direct to the display and audio via optic to the AMP but after paying good money to get HD audio and HDMI switching i expect better

maybe others including yourself just dont see what i see or have non faulty equipment. Also, as discovered, some are watching bluray at 60hz and therefore wont see any problem

you seem to believe it is impossible for this product to be faulty and dismissive of those that obviously have a geniune problem

Active Member

pacemaker it's probably pointless at this... err... point. You and I both know the Onkyo line is faulty in this regard. I spent a veritable fortune on the Denon AVR-3312ci to solve this issue, and it has. To some people it simply isn't an issue, for many of the reasons you post above.

If I were in somebody's house with any 24p display device, any Blu-ray player and an Onkyo xxx9 receiver, I could easily show that person the problem. Again, I've tested THREE different display devices, two of which are projectors, and I've tried two different Blu-ray players, and two different receivers (the Onkyo and the Denon). The only way to get those display devices to display a frame skip/jerk is to have the Onkyo in the chain. As soon as the Onkyo is gone, or I use the Denon, the issue is resolved.

Again, the problem we face is that the majority of people simply won't notice. For me, with a projector and a >100" display, it sticks out like a sore thumb.