When you tested the Turnigy L2855 did you remove the bell/cone that is threaded onto the back of the motor can? If so is it glued and threaded or just threaded? Also is it left hand or right hand threads?

When you tested the Turnigy L2855 did you remove the bell/cone that is threaded onto the back of the motor can? If so is it glued and threaded or just threaded? Also is it left hand or right hand threads?

Thanks,
Steve

Steve,

No I did not remove the bell/cone. It is threaded and to unscrew you have to turn clockwise. ie opposite than normal screws.

Neat. Something else new to try. And spend money on . Love this hobby!

I maidened my 70mm F4 Phantom last Thursday, winds 12 to 15 with gusts 20+. Went up twice, back down twice with no damage, but flight was only correcting what the wind did to it. Couldn't consider trimming, as I had no idea what to trim or which way to go . Looking forward to sunny, calmer days.....

The gyro came from HPartz?

Yes, It came from hpartz. As erh indicates it does rate and heading hold. I have it programmed via er9x on a 3way switch so I can turn it off, rate, or heading hold. I have not had much luck with heading hold, but rate on the ail's work great. It was $12.

I've got several rate gyros and they're great for taming gusts. But trying to track straight down a runway during takeoff - with a crosswind - you need more than a rate gyro. This is owing to constant nature of the wind on heading, versus a gust.

I'd like to play with a HH gyro to get arrow-straight takeoff runs, but didn't realize they had come down $O much!

More than you ever wanted to know about using a HH gyro to stabilize a takeoff run is here.

tn

Quote:

Originally Posted by 901racer

Yes, It came from hpartz. As erh indicates it does rate and heading hold. I have it programmed via er9x on a 3way switch so I can turn it off, rate, or heading hold. I have not had much luck with heading hold, but rate on the ail's work great. It was $12.

I've got several rate gyros and they're great for taming gusts. But trying to track straight down a runway during takeoff - with a crosswind - you need more than a rate gyro. This is owing to constant nature of the wind on heading, versus a gust.

I'd like to play with a HH gyro to get arrow-straight takeoff runs, but didn't realize they had come down $O much!

More than you ever wanted to know about using a HH gyro to stabilize a takeoff run is here.

tn

It's the other one GY48V that i'm using. I am currently only using the Gyro in rate mode for stabilization in high wind and it's turned off during launch. I have not had luck with HH, need to learn and play a bit more with it.

at 3000kv, it looks like it could be a bit better than the L2855-2800kv motors...

The other 3000kv motor, the L2226 is nice but being 29mm means using a different shroud that can take it which in my experience results in lower rotor blade clearance and slightly more rotor whine than the stock CS shroud.

It will be in my next HK order.

T-50 Ducted Fan (70MM) from HK does have a 29,5mm motor tube, and the shroud is 71mm, so it has more rotor clearance then original CS shroud. Out of stock for the moment...
Since the motor is 28,5mm, clearance is no problem.

T-50 fan is very similar to the fan that comes with the HK Vampire.

One more shroud that probably work is the Freewing 70mm. Motor tube 29,5mm and shroud dia 71mm.

T-50 Ducted Fan (70MM) from HK does have a 29,5mm motor tube, and the shroud is 71mm, so it has more rotor clearance then original CS shroud. Out of stock for the moment...
Since the motor is 28,5mm, clearance is no problem.

T-50 fan is very similar to the fan that comes with the HK Vampire.

One more shroud that probably work is the Freewing 70mm. Motor tube 29,5mm and shroud dia 71mm.

True in every aspect. Got a couple of T-50s from the last batch and got a few freewings from days past. I am using them with my L2226s.

I was just mentioning it because for someone who doesn't have the T-50 or freewing shrouds, the L2226 means that you also have to spend another $6-7 for a shroud.

If I'm not mistaken the T-50 fan is more like a 71mm. You should measure the ID of the shroud to confirm this. Also you should take several measurements all the way around the shroud as the one I have is not round, but egg shaped. One shround that I have used (mostly because the rotors are junk) and combined with HET rotors is this:

I've mounted everything from the little KD450 heli motor that HK sells to the JS-1400 in these shrouds and the only time one failed was about 120mph straight into the ground. The HET rotors fit perfectly in these shrouds and the picture is wrong. The mounting tabs are attached to the shroud just like the T-50.

I fired up the HET 3W (2980 kv) today on a fresh charged 4S5800 30C pack, in the Me262.

Amps 48, Watts 691.2, Volts 14.4 Settled readings. 1 motor.

Fans were installed in the nacelles, with thrust tubes, and I reformed the front of the nacelles to a lip shape from the flat original faces on them.
The nacelles also have cheater holes in them as the stock set up with WeMo 6904's needed em.

I was thinking more in the near to 70 amps and 1000 watts, like the similar 3000 kv units?

Esc's, Suppo 50 amp, are set to 1 degree timing (recommended for inrunners) and 8 KHz.

I fired up the HET 3W (2980 kv) today on a fresh charged 4S5800 30C pack, in the Me262.

Amps 48, Watts 691.2, Volts 14.4 Settled readings. 1 motor.

Fans were installed in the nacelles, with thrust tubes, and I reformed the front of the nacelles to a lip shape from the flat original faces on them.
The nacelles also have cheater holes in them as the stock set up with WeMo 6904's needed em.

I was thinking more in the near to 70 amps and 1000 watts, like the similar 3000 kv units?

Esc's, Suppo 50 amp, are set to 1 degree timing (recommended for inrunners) and 8 KHz.

I don't know what to expect with this motor, no experience with it. Throttle range calibration with the ESC ok?

What you must realize is that the static fins in the shroud are different in some cases to those of the CS10. If it has been designed correctly the shape and angle are correct only for that fan, so putting a CS10 blade fan in a Sapac may not be as efficient as it should be. From what I gather its to do with controlling swirl angles from the moving blades and getting the best straight flow of air out the back.
All parts are not equal......also what about tip space is that the same for both fans?