Do not step away from the cruise food

One of the reasons I'd never been on a big cruise ship was the food thing. I'd heard horror stories about people gaining anywhere from two to 12 pounds on a week-long cruise, and the thought of rolling off a ship after seven days at sea was scary.

So it was with some apprehension that I made my big cruisin' debut last spring aboard the MS Oosterdam, one of four Vista-class ships in Holland America Line's fleet of 12 vessels.

Along with 1,799 other passengers and 795 crew members, I was off on an Alaskan Explorer cruise, stopping in Juneau, Yakutat Bay and the Hubbard Glacier, Sitka, Ketchikan and Victoria.

My home for the week was a deluxe verandah cabin furnished in tropical colours with a king-size bed, small sofa and chair, a television set, ample closet space and a bathroom with a tub/shower.

The first piece of business was to sign up for the Internet Cafe, open 24 hours and featuring 18 computers. Your cell phone won't work at sea, so this is the best way to keep in touch.

Then it was off to check out the Greenhouse Spa and Salon (forego the long lines to sign up for appointments the first day; I had no problem booking later in the week).

Nearby is the Fitness Center, complete with weight-training machines, treadmills, stair-steppers and free weights. Pilates, yoga and aerobic classes are offered and there are two swimming pools on board.

FOOD, FABULOUS FOOD

When I discovered that the Oosterdam serves 11,000 meals a day (with more than 500 menu items to choose from), I knew I had to curb my enthusiasm for calories.

The main food area is located on Lido Deck 9, where you'll find the Lido Restaurant. This is comprised of food stations that offer breakfast, lunch and dinner menus; deli and salad bar; wok stir-fry; pizza and pasta bar; ice cream and yogurt parlour; and a late-night-snack offering. The nearby Terrace Grill has a taco bar and also serves hamburgers and hot dogs.

Dinner is in the Vista Dining Room, with four seatings on one of two levels. The food was quite yummy, but often I would forego eating all four courses.

One evening I had chicken noodle soup, salad and a quesadilla along with a glass of Robert Mondavi cabernet.

But for the big splurge, pony up $20 extra and enjoy lobster tail or other delights at the Pinnacle Grill. This upscale restaurant serves contemporary Pacific Northwest cuisine in an elegant setting.

There are nine bars and cafes on board the Oosterdam. My hangout was the Ocean Bar, where my favourite waiters, Manny and JoJo (both from the Philippines), would greet me warmly every evening before dinner (live music, too).

The Windstar Cafe opens at 7 a.m. and is the place for a cafe au lait or cappuccino.

STAYING FIT AND OFF THE SHIP

My goal was to spend time outdoors, so I utilized the promenade deck for my daily walks. Three times around the deck equals 1.6 kilometres, so I'd put in at least three-plus kilometres before breakfast and another kilometre later in the day.

As much as I got into the rhythm of life on the Oosterdam, I couldn't resist all the shore excursion offered as extras. Not only is this the best way to see an area up close (shopping doesn't count), you'll be getting a good workout and lots of fresh, Alaska air.

Seven of us signed up for the South End Sitka Bike & Hike excursion, a three-hour trip that included a four-mile coastal bike ride and a mile-long trek through the Tongass National Forest.

It was an easy bike ride to a trailhead where we hiked into Thimbleberry Lake. From there we decided to break into two groups, as some of us wanted to do some more intense biking . . . which we did, up a steep hill to picturesque Blue Lake. (I admit, I pushed my bike part of the way, but the trip back down was a thrill!)

In Ketchikan, I was the lone kayaker on the 2.5-hour Whiskey Cove trip (there were 26 excursions to choose from that day). My friendly guide Tec Petaja kindly put me in the front position of the two-person kayak and off we paddled.

Our route started in Thomas Basin, and from there we went through Creek Street, crossed the Tongass Narrows across to Pennock Island and paddled through Whiskey Cove. The grey skies threatened but only a spattering of rain came our way (earlier in the week, I wimped out on the Mendenhall River Float Trip in Juneau due to a downpour).

So how did I fare after a week of all that food and fun? Very well, indeed.

Not only did I thoroughly enjoy life on a cruise ship, I didn't gain a single pound. And yes, I'm ready to get back on board.

TIPS FOR A HEALTHY WEEK AT SEA

- Use the stairs: Although Holland America ships have numerous elevators, I used the stairs whenever possible.

- Use the promenade deck: At any time of day, passengers can be seen doing laps around the ship. I took along my iPod, mixing music with spectacular views for the ideal power walk.

- Use the Greenhouse Spa and Salon and Fitness Center: I had a manicure, pedicure and hot-stone massage. I didn't use the well-equipped Fitness Center, as I prefer exercising outdoors.

- Sign up for active shore excursions: Whether it's dog-sledding or snorkelling, head for shore and take in the scenery with one of the local guides.

- Eat wisely: I only dined on the Lido Deck twice (all those food stations were too tempting). I generally ate breakfast and lunch in the Vista Dining Room or occasionally had room service.

There is a "Light & Healthy" selection on both the lunch and dinner menus in the dining room along with low-carb menu items. Special dietary needs can be accommodated.

IF YOU GO . . .

- Holland America Line (www.hollandamerica.com, 1-877-SAILHAL).

- Holland America Line's 2007 Vancouver cruise season begins May 6 with the Ryndam's seven-day Glacier Bay Inside Passage Cruise. It stops in Juneau, Skagway and Ketchikan and includes two days of scenic cruising in the Inside Passage and a day of cruising at Glacier Bay National Park.

- Holland America has five ships sailing from Vancouver to Alaska this season: Ryndam, Volendam, Statendam, Zandaam and Zuiderdam. All ships have the Greenhouse Spa and Salon with full spa, salon and fitness services.

- The CruiseTours, which combine cruising and land tours in luxury motor coaches, include Great Land Klondike, Great Land Wilderness and Glacier Discovery. They range from trips on the White Pass & Yukon Railroad to exploring Denali National Park.

- There are 230 optional shore excursions for cruisers, 10 of which are new this season. The Glacier View Bike & Brew in Juneau combines scenic bicycling through rainforests followed by a tour and tasting at Alaska Brewery. In Seward, meet an Iditarod champion on the new "Ididaride" Wilderness Sled Dog Ride & Tour.

- Some of the more popular shore excursions are the Helicopter Flightseeing & Glacier Trek, the Eagle Preserve Float Adventure through the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve and the Alaska Bear Adventure by Floatplane.

Almost Done!

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