This tutorial accompanies the article Modelling
Structures in Card, which was published in an abridged form in
the ETE Express, No. 112, 4th Quarter, 2006

Below are step-by-step illustrated instructions for scratchbuilding a
half-relief background model based on an image on the Busch CD. Busch’s
CDs of background images contain a large number of diverse structures
just begging to be turned into background, or with other enhancements,
into foreground structures.

Original image on Busch CD

Image corrected and adjusted

The images above show the image as "delivered" on the Busch
background image cd and then after correction. I like to use Adobe's Photoshop
for this, but other image editing programs will also be able to do this.
Among the correctiont to the image are correcting the perspective, cropping,
increasing the resolution to 600dpi, and resizing the image to the desired
scale, in this case 1:87ish.

Print out as many copies as you think you need, then spray all with
a UV-filtering fixative. 1 copy is then mounted on 2- or 4-ply mat board
using a dry mount adhesive such as that made by 3M. Spray mount adhesive
can also be used but I prefer not adding more fumes to my life than necessary.
See "supplies" at bottom for more information.

Next mount 2 copies onto thin card. These will be used to bring forward
the window details and hold the recessed windows. To make details jump
out even further, use thicker card such as a 2-ply mat board. As always,
experiment.

Sheets fanned out

Carefully cut out all windows on the piece mounted to the 2-ply mat board.
Next cut out the whole window treatments and windows as well as other
desired details from the sheet on the very thin card. Tone the edges down
with a colored pencil or wait until the structure is completed and use
powdered pigments. On the other sheet mounted to thin card roughly cut
out the windows so that there is a border on all sides. In the example
shown they can be cut out in pairs to reduce effort.

Window treatments and details cut out

Cut off the roof and cut out the area of the doors and steps. These will
be set back further to indicate greater depth with a different paper used
for the doors as all details were lost in the shadows.

Now we can begin mounting the window treatments and other details directly
over image on the main façade. After that, mount the windows from
behind making sure to position precisely.

Mounting treatments and details

To complete the sides and roof of this background model we’ll create
brick walls using a brick pattern sheet that we’ll weather. The
brickwork is from Scalescenes
and can be ordered online and downloaded. The sidewalls are cut out of
4-ply matboard with slope towards the back for the roof. On larger models
one will want to cut more pieces of the same size to provide greater stability
and to keep the roof from sagging. As this is a background model, the
back is irrelevant and can be left off or added from a scrap of matboard.
Place the end walls on the brick pattern sheet and trim out leaving about
1/8th” or 2mm extending beyond the matboard along the edge facing
out. This will be used to hide the edge of the façade. Glue the
endpieces and interior braces into place ensuring that they are perpendicular
to the façade.

Create steps leading back and then the “boxes” which will
create the entryways out of pieces of matboard. The doors will be mounted
to the back of the entry ways. It will help to color these before assembly.

Side walls and door from front

Rear view showing doors and bracing

Finally, attach the roof and add the chimneys. The latter
can be made by gluing together pieces of mat board wrapped in (in this
instance) with red brickwork and concrete patterns from Scalescenes.
Angle the bottoma of the chimneys so that they sit vertically on the roof.
Caps were made of thin black card with a hole cut in the center to give
more depth. Finally, weather the model as appropriate or desired. Mine
is set in an industrial locale, so I used lots of grimy black powdered
pigments to simulate the soot...

Roof and chimneys

Detail of entrance

On the layout

Using the same basic image,replace the orange brickwork on the facade
with darker red brick, or a stucco finish, such as those made by Scalescenes,
but retain the architectural details. Combine elements from different
images for completely scratchbuilt strictures. The same techniques can
also be used for any other structures. The Bergbau-Grill
and my new station were created the same
way.

Don't be shy, experiment! This is a really great
way to create unique structures for use on your layout.

Another Background Model - Almost a Building Flat

Was taking a break from working on a bookbinding commission and decided
to see how a relief model of the backside of a structure would work. Again,
image from the Busch CD. The model is way too small for H0 (didn't feel
like scaling the image)but worked out quite well, and would feel right
at home on an N layout.

Printed out several copies, mounting half to 1mm and half to 2mm board.
The structure is 15mm behind the wall with the total depth being 30mm.
Cut out overall image sans roof from 2mm board. Then cut the balconies
and structural projection adjacent to the balcony from 1mm board. Color
the edges and glue over overall image of structure.

Wall is likewise 1mm thick but should have made it thicker. Looks good
until you view the image from above. Dormer window made from 3 pieces
of 2mm board and angled at the base. Dormer roof and chimneys then stuck
on roof.

Finish by adhering ivy made of fine turf to side of structure.

Total time for this experiment, 2.5 hours, but most of that spent thinking
about things...

Tools can be had from Micro-Mark
and bookbinding suppliers such as Talas
and Gaylord Brothers who can supply
tools such as Teflon burnishers (bonefolders) in various sizes. These
have the advantage of not marking the material when rubbing.