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Designers have taken the economic climate to heart, and grown-up, functional - but certainly not dull - clothes are the inspiring result, says Sarah Mower

I always find there's something bracing about the arrival of a little austerity in fashion. It's good for reductionists, the sensible and the grown-up - all of which I admit to being, at the risk of sounding dull. But ha! This autumn, we're anything but.

P is for: Peacoats, which were shown on the a/w catwalks of Bottega VenetaThe season we're contemplating looks like a veritable field day for those of us who don't regard "classic" as a synonym for boring; who like to change our appearances in small yet wickedly effective increments; and who enjoy nothing more than focusing on sharp, economical purchases while ignoring all nonsense trends strewn in our paths. This, in other words, is the season that will sort the women from the girls.
It's a pity that it's taken such a terrible dive in the economy to lasso most designers back from their stampede into frivolity and force them to produce more useful, serious content. But having to imagine what would appeal this season while we were back in the first twinges of the sub-prime crisis has done them the power of good.
So what we're seeing on the rails now is measured, grown-up, curvaceous, functionally considered design - with the odd invigorating flash of something different. Which is what proves a designer's worth in the first place, I'd say.

That tiny "now" imperative - the slit of the skirt just so, the height of the boot, the way to wear the hair or carry the bag - is, of course, what keeps us entranced with fashion, rather than mere clothes. And this season, those details carry real weight - so it makes sense to do a bit of homework before rushing to purchase.
You might just have the damn thing in your wardrobe or jewellery box already. Or you could make something look right with just the smallest tweak - thus concentrating your money on a couple of really new, ideally multipurpose possessions that will lift your whole look.

P IS FOR…
Studying autumn's looks requires learning - or re-learning - some fashion terms; many of which happen to begin with a P.Parure: a jewellery set comprised of a matching necklace and cuffs - the perfect thing to spark up a plain dress or top. But never with earrings.Pointy stilettos: these are what make curvy dresses look new. And they're an elegant step away from the recent stompin' orthopaedics.Pencil skirts: a critical drop in the hemline to two inches below the knee has taken place; a crucial difference to last year's thigh-flashing skirts and dresses. You can wear boots with this look, but the pointy shoe tweaks the hip-hugging narrow skirt (perhaps part of a dress) to a stunningly sexy Fifties silhouette.Peacoats: these double-breasted jackets are timeless, transitional pieces to wear through the seasons. They complement the new, long-line dresses and wide or skinny trousers, and they do casual with jeans.Peg-tops: these pleat-front trousers are at their most extreme in the Eighties', banana-shaped versions. In others, they are simple slouch pants.Peplum: a panel that juts out at the hip on a nipped-waist jacket or dress. The doublet-like detail of the jacket is part of the cool goth sub-theme; on a dress, it becomes a minimal "pannier" (a side hoop).

telegraph.co.uk

__________________

"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior

It could involve some of the ubiquitous dark lace, a touch of punkish knitting, or very dark lipstick. Best to hold back on investing in too much lace, though — it has the hallmark of a flash-in-the-pan fad. Designer: black dress, £1,595, Prada; 020 7646 5000. High street: black camisole, £45, Warehouse; 0870 122 8813, warehouse.co.uk

__________________

"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior

There’s sober, and then there’s morose, so to perk life up there’s space in the wardrobe for a sequin jacket, cardigan, waistcoat or T-shirt. Bring it out for day, even. Designer: white leather blazer, from £21,500, Balmain; balmain.com. High street: waistcoat, £140, All Saints; 0870 458 3736, allsaints.co.uk

__________________

"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior

A fantastic pair of boots might be the one mad buy to allow yourself — they make everything else look fresh. You just need to decide on a decorative shoe-boot, a wildly fringed high-heel moccasin, or a tight over-the-knee style. Designer: nude leather over-the-knee boot, £770, by Etro; 020 7495 5767. High street: beige leather boot, £180, by Ted Baker, at Asos.com

__________________

"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior

If you make only one change this season, put your hair up — for the price of a £3 tailcomb and a packet of Kirbigrips. Slightly teased chignons — or anything else that gives hair height — contribute to the elongated, sophisticated look that’s the essence of this chic autumn. Designer: take inspiration from Michael Kors

__________________

"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior

i know all the pics are not showing now...
but you can tell what these are from the descriptions...

i would say that all these trends are still applicable to this coming fall...2009... i guess they fall under the heading of what the fashion press is now calling 'slow burners'
***trends that stick around for awhile before 'burning out'...

like ripped denim ...:p

__________________

"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior

These things are applicable to all FW seasons. I cannot believe someone pays her to write this stuff.

Quote:

That tiny "now" imperative - the slit of the skirt just so, the height of the boot, the way to wear the hair or carry the bag - is, of course, what keeps us entranced with fashion, rather than mere clothes. And this season, those details carry real weight - so it makes sense to do a bit of homework before rushing to purchase.

Really, Sarah Mower? You are so wise beyond your years. Thank you for enlightening us so fully about what accessories are!

"Bring back the blouse"... where did it go really? Like Justin bringing sexy back, you mean?

"Up your do"??? Fantastic! Such a brave fashion suggestion! You mean a woman with long hair can 'up her do'? Wow!! Let's give her a medal! she is like the modern day's C.Z. Guest.

She is an idiot. Go back to your little cubicle at the Conde Nast building, and continue knitting, or reading, or whatever keeps you busy for the 11 months of the years when you are 100 percent useless.

there are little tweaks that can make certain "classic" pieces seem "new" or updated each season....
especially since these posts mention the economic climate where we don't necessarily need to invest in pieces that will look too trendy and will be irrelevant in a year...

sure, these things have a classic bent, but that's also why the thread can be bumped almost a year later and still be relevant

the concept of parures, peg-tops and peplums may not be new, but they're certainly not always in... same goes for pointy stilettos... we've been seeing round toes for a while now and things are moving in another direction now..

Anyway, thanks for bumping the thread softie...
i didn't see it last time around and i'm actually kind of excited to start thinking about my fall wardrobe