How Tequila is made

Tequila is a product that blends cultures. The
process that derives it is also representative of an interrelation of
the diverse productive processes that characterize the indigenous
Prehispanic culture of Jalisco, Mexico and the introduction of the
Spanish distillation process. This blend is present in all the aspects
of Tequila, from its production means to its final consumption. Even
though it cannot be affirmed whether the prehispanic culture distillated
or not their beverages, it can be affirmed that they applied the
fermentation process. Historically the fermentation practiced by the
prehispanic tribes derived a kind of wine or beer. These beverages were
mainly utilized for ceremonial and ritualistic purposes. Even though the
fermentation process did not achieve complete compatibility with the
existing industrial process, it did achieve positive results in relation
to the curado. (A stage of fermentation ) The distillation process was
introduced by the Spaniards on the 17th century. The distillation
process was widely utilized in the territorial boundaries of the New
Spain, formerly Mexico. It can be affirmed with certainty that the agave
plant and the boiling process are by historical precedent, vernacular
elements of the prehispanic culture of Tiquila. The traditional
procedure was only affected at its final stage by the Spanish
distillation process. Referring to the distillation process, it can be
affirmed that its existence was achieved through the intervention of the
Moors in the territories of Andalucia, Espana. The Moors imported into
Spain the Arabic process which would eventually reach the New Continent.
By acknowledging the historical merge it can be stated that Tequila
represents a beverage of mixed identities.

The Tequila as a distillate product received
more intervention from Spain than from the vernacular prehispanic
tribes. The reason stands in the fact that Spain intervened in the
commercialization and land control of the New Spain.

By this time it is extremely important to understand the historical
process that derives the beverage we enjoy today. The Tequila is the
product obtained from the distillation and fermentation of the mezcal
plant scientifically known as Xerofica-Agave-Tequilana (Member of the
lily family). The two main types are the Agave-Azul and Agave-Xinguin.
These species are cultivated in the states of Jalisco and Nayarit in
Mexico. However, other species include: Moraneno, Mano Larga, Chino Azul,
Bermejo, Singuin, Chato, Sopilote, and Pie de Mula. It is precisely the
type of plant which gives the Tequila its original designation. The
Agave or Xerofica-Tequilana requires ten years of complete development
and three additional years for its production and manufacture. In order
for the beverage to become classified as Tequila it requires 51 percent
of fermented sugars extracted from the Agave-Azul
also known as the Weber-Azul. If
such condition is not established, then the beverage obtained is
referred to as mezcal. Among the
Tequila lineage the following types are the most recognized: Tequila-Blanco(White)
or Plata (Silver), tequila-Reposado,
and Tequila Anejo. Other types
include the Tequila-Dorado (Its color is obtained through the use of
caramel and other flavorings) and the Chinaco which rests on oak barrels
for two to three months. The Tequila Anejo extends its maturation up to
a year or more until it acquires an amber color.

The number of agave plants varies from 2,500 to 2,800 per hectare. The
number of plants in relation to the cultivating field yield to a proper
growth. Information disclosed by the state of Jalisco
in Mexico revealed that by 1980, the cultivated area amounted
to 30 and 35 thousand hectares. The same year the Tequila Industry
classified objectively the existence of 33 distilleries. These
distilleries employed 5830 people of the region from which 1,230 were
employed in the distillery and 4,600 were employed in the cultivating
field. The state of Nayarit had at the time 3 distilleries; However, 95
percent of the production was developed in the State of Jalisco.

The ideal conditions for the cultivation of the Blue-Agave is found on
arid areas characterized by the presence of reddish clays and (siliza).
These conditions are properly met by the state of Jalisco
and Nayarit. However Jalisco has been officially recognized as the
producer and manufacturer of the Tequila Weber Azul. The agave Weber-Azul
requires a maturation of eight to ten years. During that time the Quiote
or agave-flower flourishes. It is necessary to eventually discard the
(germane) of the flower in order to condense the (savia). The (savia) is
responsible for the sweet content of Tequila. The maturation process is
necessary to reach the Jima. The
Jima is the process in which the (pencas) are pulled from the ground.
The process requires an experienced ability which becomes mastered
through experience. The Jima is a preliminary stage that will eventually
guide to a boiling stage by means of industrial kilns better known as
Autoclaves. The Autoclaves have been the result of a technological
evolution. Prior to their existence, the boiling process was conducted
through conical holes dug underground. The upper part of the holes was
faced upwards.

During the last years of the 19th century, the conical holes were
substituted by a more efficient generation which permitted a faster
boiling. After hours of direct fire exposure, the plants were (trituradas)
in a processor known as Tahona. The
Tahona is a circular space built with cantera stone in which a heavy
stone shaped in the form of a wheel rotated upon its own axis. The main
purpose of the stone was to moler (mash)
the agave's extract in order to derive a type of paste diluted with
water. Once the paste was obtained, it was deposited in containers for
its fermentation. Eventually, the fermentation would be proceeded by the
distillation that occurred in the Alambiques. The end result also known
as the Mosto evaporated its alcoholic content and was eventually placed
in the bottom of a steel deposit that was located in the upper part of
the pot. The deposit was cooled by means of circulating water around its
upper part. From this process, the vapor condensed and would reach a
liquid state. The liquid obtained is the Tequila.
The technological evolution has aided the Tequila Industry by improving
an optimum process which now enables better boiling capacities through
the use of more efficient kilns and autoclaves. Even though these
improvements have aided in the production process, the tequila Industry
stands for the tradition and quality acquired only through experience.

History of Tequila

In order to understand with precision the origin of
the Tequila, it is necessary to acknowledge its prehispanic roots. During
the prehispanic era, the Tiquila tribe from Amatitlan, learned its
essential process. The process utilized by them consisted of boiling and
fermenting the agave plant in order to obtain a ritualistic beverage only
consumed by religious authorities.

The beverage and its origin were unknown to the European continent until
the arrival of conquistador Hernan Cortez. When Cortez arrived to what he
believed to be the Indies, he discovered an enchanted world of resources
and wide commercial practices. In his first letter to King Carlos V,
Cortez denotes special interest to the existence of the mezcal:

"..They sell honey emanated from corn that are as sweet as the sugar
obtained from a plant they call maguey, from these plants they make wine
and sugar which they also sell."(Idem: 79).Luna Zamora P. 29)

With the influence of the religious world through the
mission of spreading the word of God in the New Continent, the
missionaries also discovered the presence of Indigenous products such as
the maguey and the corn. Fray Francisco Ximenez, a Spanish monk, indicated
the importance of the product diversity obtained from the maguey plant
during the 16th century. In his observations he stated that the Mexcalmelt
was one of the most utilized varieties of mezcal. However, the Tepemexcall
was utilized more emphatically for religious practices. In the year 1651,
Jeronimo Hernandez, a Spanish doctor indicates that the Tequila beverage
was strictly utilized for medicinal purposes. Among the uses were
rheumatic cures achieved by rubbing tequila on the affected body parts.
(Encyclopedia de Mexico p. 66)

The prehispanic realm conceived the importance of the products and rituals
derived from the maguey and mezcal. However the history that founded the
origins of the Tequila as a product initiate in 1758. In 1758 Jose
Cuervo, a Spanish entrepreneur was given full cultivating
rights on the vast territorial extensions of Villoslada, Jalisco. One year
later Jose Maria Guadalupe Cuervo, was given by the king of Spain the
rights on the production of Tequila. During the 1850's Jose Maria
Castaneda established La Antigua, a mezcal and wine distillery. La Antigua
was then acquired by Cenobio Sauza on
September first, 1873. During the same year Mr. Sauza exported eight
barrels to the United States. In 1888 he changed the name to La
Perseverancia.

La Perseverancia would eventually face changes in the development of the
Industry. The political and socio-economic changes developing in Mexico
affected the tequila industry in the 18th and 19th centuries. Tequila was
became a taxed product The taxes were designated to the fund war against
the remaining of emperor Maximilian. (Zamora p. 63)

Another significant change was the introduction of the Mexican rail
system. The coming of the train as a means of transportation, enabled the
tequila Industry to reach broader destinations.

The extra regional markets were conquered due to the solid development of
Commercial systems. These commercial systems enabled the tequila market to
participate internationally. From a national product, the tequila would
become an international oriented market. The first exports were achieved
by land into the United States by the second halve of the 19th century.
The tequila industry achieved high commercial goals. Along with these
achievements, technological improvements and optimum agricultural planning
dictated the success of the Industry. The industrialism that marked the
shift from a semi-rural industry to a more mechanized one would enable a
more sophisticated and efficient production capacity.

The transition of technologies and production capacities were a clear sign
of the 20th century. The same shift geared a more active consumption that
required further changes and adaptations that would be evident by the
Second World War. During the peace time, the demand for tequila would
increase miraculously. The Second World War increased the market for the
product. By 1950 the number of agave fields increased to 5697. An increase
of 110 percent in relation to 1940. (Zamora)

The sixties are representative of a trend in the national and
international levels of consumption. 1965 marks a new period in the
history of tequila. The tequila industry passed from being a traditional
oriented industry to a more developed market. The decade that marked the
sixties represented a considerable increase of national and international
tequila consumption. The capital city of the state of Jalisco,
Guadalajara became then imperative and essential in the
administrative endeavors that were required for the market reform.

The new shift in the maneuver of the Industry lead to new control classes
in which a traditional industry became open to investors. The reform
itself, reorganized the producers into diverse classifications:

"A). The societies in which international investment is involved. B).
The societies in which smaller national and local investors participate.
C). The societies formed by local families which best describe the
traditional market."(Rogelio Luna Zamora, La Historia del Tequila, de sus regiones y de sus
hombres. P. 235)

With the existence of an international oriented market, the producers of
tequila competed and reorganized their commercial strategies in order to
capture the international client. The tequila industry invested
considerable amounts of capital towards international advertisement. It is
by the understanding of Tequila's past that we can now rejoice with one of
the most popular drinks of our time and try a shot accompanied by all the
historical richness that characterize it.

The only way to really learn tequila is to drink it,
as many varieties as you can. One unique way to do this is at an organized
tasting or tour. A good example for those in the San Diego area is the
Annual Tequila Tour. See Details.