`64 C-10 rear tank install

Here`s a shot of my rear tank install, spare tire brace removed, rear crossmember removed, slight trming of lower frame rails both sides 1/16th of an inch, built new rear crossmember from 2x4 seamless rectangular tube, notched the rear crossmember both ends for bumper brackets, will utilize tank straps, filler tube to run thru factory hole ( enlarged to 1.5 inches for flex filler tube to be mounted in bed left side, secondary hole for vent tube as well. Still working on rear sway bar, and shock relocation to out side of frame rail.

Looks good Rich. Definitely can see your attention to the details. Wayne responded awhile back to my tank reinstall and mentioned a rock gaurd shield. I haven't done anything yet but definitely will do. I liked his ABS idea but will probably just roll out a front piece from metal. I'll probably just fab some stand offs from the straps to support it. Do you have any plans for a shield for yours? Have you looked into fuel filler hose yet?Post the progress as you can. Show a few more shots if you have time.

Bought my tank from Bob Drake, it has a 1 3/16 filler tube and a half inch vent tube, both will run thru the frame rail into the bed far left side for now, later will probably install fuel filler door in the side panel. I haven`t giver the guards much thought...but will now....might even comb the wreckers to see whats out there. The tank hangs down less that my spare tire did, its 18 gallons already set up for FI .....

one might want to look under S10 blazers from the late 80s through mid 90s..

jeep grand cherokees in the 90s also have a rock guard or skid plate under their tanks..

because your truck might be slightly wider... you might want to carefully measure it.. pick up 2... so you can split them 60/40 and 40/60 and either weld.. epoxy.. Glue... thermal bond the 2 sections together so you get full width coverage..

i don't do as much junk yarding as i used to.. i probably should.. its good walking .. its just i bring home TOO MUCH stuff.. all the nuts and bolts that people remove while getting to the parts they want.. go right in my bucket.. when i buy my stuff.. i pour them out on the table.. but my yard does not charge me for them usually...

one last thing.... in this image... i don't see the exhaust tail pipes.. do you have just turn downs... if you want to explore exhaust tips that are custom made that sort of feed into something like a shop vacuum 12" wide nozzle... so there is NO restriction.. but the exhaust flow is spread out wide on both sides... to disperse the heat of the exhaust in a wider path.. boiling works for oatmeal with raisins.. not gas tanks..

lastly.. there are a few applications for transverse mufflers that have inlet and outlet on the same end.. so you could have the outlets on the front of the muffler to get the exhaust out under the frame easier and let it come out in front of the rear wheels.. 30 to 45 degree downward facing outlets with a slightly reduced size to keep the flow speed up to push it out past your wheels.. this is just an idea.. hmm... just had a thought..if you used the single inlet dual outlet transverse mufflers and chose the forward outlet.. perhaps putting a big U bend between the rear outlets would make it a like a crossover and mellow the sound even more..

Thanks for the tips wayne, the tail pipes were cut off as the rear axle had come down on them, ( 5 inch drop springs but sinse this work had started changed to 4 inch heavyduty springs ) plans are to move the mufflers four inch foward, then do a 90 to the outside of the frame rail and down and out behind wheel. The rock guard I`m still on the fence with, I do have alum sheeting I can bend on the brake if needed, I will however put a rack guard around the filler tube and vent tube.

Looks good Rich, I noticed the strap mounted on top of the rear cross member rail. I'd definitely make sure you can remove all the bolts easy and pull the tank from below without having to remove the bed. Once it's painted you won't want to risk that. That's another reason I turned my exhaust out in front of the rear wheels. It didn't seem that important to me to get past the rear member. I know you plan for the filler in the bed boards but if you decide different and need some special fuel filler made up like I did you can call Stainless Specialties. They did a nice job fitting a special reducer setup that I couldn't find to do myself. Keep chopping along there buddy.

I never planned on removing the tank, so if the tank needs to come out the bed has to come off, not a big deal, eight bolts and unplug the harness/ plus filler ( maybe ) and its done. I have no wood in the bed alum diamond plate, 6061-t6 . .250 thickness, industrial harder material, not as shiny as the bling stuff...been in there sinse `93, still looks good today, plans are to build a small locking box around filler, large enough to carry a bottle jack and lug wrench as well next to rear stake pocket and wheel well.

Here`s a pic of the Geo Prism filler and vent tube, this should alleviate any fill problems, all to be mounted in a diamond plate box in the left rear corner. Still have to drill a vent hole thru the side or underside of the cap..

question on the filler tube... does that filler tube have an internal tube for the incoming fuel ??? that extends all the way INTO the tank .. not just stop after the bend??? so it does not get an air lock and kick back????

i have a friend with a ranger extended cab.. a shop was replacing the fuel pump and dropped the tank.. they sawed the inner hose off... making it easier to install the tank from the bottom.. he had to carry blocks of wood or back a wheel up on the curb at the pump to lift that side of the truck to fill the tank.. we pulled the bed and changed the filler neck assembly and all was well..

the inner tube is complete... allows the incoming gasoline to flow all the way into the tank.. the outer tube allows displaced vapors from the tank to flow up to the filler neck to come out the vent hole shown in the lower image above... if fuel comes up that vent.. it shuts off the nozzle..

406Rich:Just about done ( still need to build the cover box from 6061 t-6 alum diamond plate) and ready to pull tank from cab and fill hole.

is there any chance... of using either some fuel fill hose or several sections of decent radiator hose slipped inside each other and a pair of clamps under the bed and the hole through the floor slightly enlarged.. and yes... i know how hard it is to drill a hole larger...

this would allow the bed to shift around on the frame.. and prevent the edges of the bed or the diamond plate to wear through the sides of that thin tube... my other thought would be to create a probably an external tube with an internal flange.. that bolts through the bed and protects it from side impacts..

one could even install one of the flip cap fuel cap covers on the top of the tube ... give it some style.. you might even get somebody to roll some of the diamond plate scraps into a tube..

i think some of the newer dodges have something like this.. its just an idea..

the rubber hose would do this also...

again this is just an idea... finding or creating a grommet that would do the job would be a huge search..

I'm using a piece of half inch inch alum plate, cut a hole smaller than the filler tube, drilled two holes on either side of the said hole, tapped the holes then cut in half, this will clamp around the filler tube and bolt up from the underside of the bed to secure the filler from moving. I have considered a flip cap, stainless boat fillers or the quick fill spring loaded filler cap you just push thru, not committed yet, the one you shown 66 to 72 charger may be to big to use.