Todd-
Do exactly what Matt B said. We used to tighten by hand and then a little extra to get the holes in the tangs parallel (parralel? paralel? parrallell? ). Use Loc-Tite on the threads of the tang. I have seen people put a rubber gasket or washer under the flange at the base of the tang to take pressure off the metal to Gel-coat contact too. I never did but I don't see where it can hurt.

Have a great day in Sunny CA

_________________The fact that this windy world is largely covered in water obviously means that man was meant to sail.

Hello, my name is Delane. I'm new to the forum and have a good tip for the bow tangs. Years ago I purchased a boat with the tang holes worn a little due to loose play. Soooo, I over drilled the holes and sleeved the holes with brass bushings that fit tight. Then I cut large steel washer that fit to the curvature of the underside of the hull and allowed me to tighten the nut and bolt to the point of taking all of the play out and spreading more of the pressure over a larger area. I saw the boat a few days ago and notice that it's held fine for over 8 years. Another reason I did this was years earlier a friend was stranded at sea for over 20 some hours when his mast came down due to a failed bow tang. I just didn't like the set up and had to go extreme mostly to make me feel better and because I sailed to islands here in Okinawa over 25 miles away sometimes. Years ago a few hobbie buddies and I sailed around Okinawa Japan in 3 days and published the story in Hobie Hot Line. I think in 88.