Dive into the inspiring history of this stunning architectural movement
as the city celebrates a century of Amsterdam School design

P.17 A CITY OF OPENNESS

Discover the people who make Amsterdam uniquely open and
diverse with the 180 Amsterdammers project

P.20 WHAT'S ON

A treasure trove of top tips: exhibitions, events, festivals and hotspots
to explore during your stay in Amsterdam
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE DUTCH EU PRESIDENCY:
iamsterdam.com/europe, europebypeople.nl (official cultural programme),
eu2016.amsterdam

The Netherlands holds the presidency
of the Council of the European Union
(EU) for the first six months of 2016.
Amsterdam is serving as the host for
many of activities this role brings. It's a
terrific honour and responsibility,
certainly in view of the topics
demanding attention, which must not
only be discussed at national and
international levels of government, but
are equally important at the local level.
That is why we don’t wish to limit
ourselves as a host to just creating a
welcoming atmosphere in Amsterdam
for policymakers and government
officials. We are a city of individual
citizens, whose voices also need to be
heard during the Council of the EU
Presidency. On 21 April, for instance,
residents engaged in conversation with
the mayors of European capitals during
a public debate. And those mayors
were here for a reason. I’m very proud
to have hosted the fifth EU Capitals
Mayors’ Meeting in the National
Maritime Museum in Amsterdam.
During this event, I was able to speak
with my fellow mayors about the
significance of cities for Europe.
Amsterdam already has a fantastic
working relationship with Paris, Berlin
and Athens, built on respect and
reciprocity. I hope that all the mayors
can look back at their visit with
satisfaction, and that you’ll have a
similar feeling about our city when it’s
time to go home. This magazine will
hopefully inspire you to enjoy
Amsterdam’s welcoming atmosphere.
Mr. E.E. van der Laan
Mayor of Amsterdam

The Marineterrein in Amsterdam is the sparkling centre of the Dutch
presidency of the Council of the EU for the first half of 2016. Located
close to Central Station, this former naval dockyard is now a dynamic
social and technological hub.
HISTORY
The historical naval dock on Kattenburg Island has existed for over 350
years. In 1655, during the height of
the Dutch Golden Age, the site was a
large shipyard. Many ships were built
there for the naval protection of the
Dutch East India Company’s fleet.
One of the few surviving 17th-century
buildings in the area is the historic
archway; hundreds of labourers,
carpenters, mast-makers and painters
walked underneath it daily to or from
their work. A bell hung above the
gate, there to signal the beginning of
the workday. This bell can now be
found in the Maritime Museum.
Meanwhile, the Maritime Museum
used to be a central storage
warehouse for the admiralty’s fleet;
cannons, sails, flags and ship
equipment were stored here. The
imposing building was designed by
Daniel Stalpaert, the same architect
who designed the City Hall at Dam
Square, now the Royal Palace.

A COMMUNICATIONS,
SUSTAINABILITY AND
TECHNOLOGY HUB
Located right next to the beautiful
Maritime Museum, the area is now
home to several innovative companies and organisations in the fields of
media, sustainability, technology and
social development, amongst others.
marineterrein.nl

SMART CITY EXPERIENCE LAB
Learn more about Amsterdam Smart City’s
projects and innovations, aimed at creating
greener, more intelligent cities. A Smart ID
Card offers information on the projects and
answers key questions. There will also be a
series of lectures and workshops.
Open on Tuesdays 12 pm – 5 pm &
Fridays 9 am – 4 pm
amsterdamsmartcity.com

5

Q&A
We had a quick chat with
Liesbeth Jansen, project
director of Marineterrein
Amsterdam, about what
makes this innovative corner
of the city special:
TELL US ABOUT THE
MARINETERREIN
The Marineterrein was established more than
350 years ago on Kattenburg island, which was
created in 1655. It was here that the Admiralty
of Amsterdam, the precursor to the navy,
constructed warships to protect the fleet of the
Dutch East India Company. When the shipyard
was closed in 1915, the area was used by the
Royal Netherlands Navy and the Ministry of
Defence for recruitment and selection
procedures, training programmes and logistics
operations. Over the coming years, the Ministry
of Defence will gradually vacate large parts of
the area, allowing more businesses and puclic
functions to take over this part of the city
centre.

WHAT MAKES THE AREA SO
SPECIAL?
The area has always been separate from the
city, but is slowly being opened up to the
public. The quay offers a unique view of the city
centre. It is quiet, peaceful and green â&#x20AC;&#x201C; seemingly far removed from the hustle and bustle of
the inner city. It is the perfect place to work on
solutions for a more sustainable city that also
embraces its past. Nowhere else will you find 14
hectares of land with impressive development
opportunities just a stone's throw from
Amsterdam Central railway station. Luckily, the
state and municipal authorities chose to work
together to slowly develop this unique area
based on the values of innovation, connection
and focus.

HOW DOES IT FEEL HAVING THE EU
PRESIDENCY HERE?
During the informal meetings, we noticed
heightened security measures, such as

checkpoints, passes and a strict no-visitors
policy. We worked with the local tenants to
make the necessary preparations. We are also
excited about FabCity on Java-eiland, a
neighbourhood close to Marineterrein.

ANY FAVOURITE ADDRESSES?
Pension Homeland hotel is one of our
favourites, and we're looking forward to De
Scheepskameel restaurant, operated by the
managers of Rijsel restaurant, which opens in
May near the bridge over the Dijksgracht canal.
During the summer months, NEMO's rooftop
terrace offers beautiful views of the city and the
IJ. And it doesn't get more traditional than CafĂŠ
Scharrebier on Kadijksplein square. Mediamatic,
on the other side of the bridge, has a lovely
greenhouse terrace and serves exciting
beers and fish caught in the canals. We
also recommend Restaurant Choux on
De Ruyterkade 128.

WHAT FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS CAN
WE LOOK FORWARD TO?
The Ministry of Defence will have completed its
relocation by July 2018, at which time the area
will be largely open to the public. There will be
room for lots of new tenants and new activities.
There will be a dynamic redevelopment of this
area during this period of transition. This spring,
we invited local residents, researchers, artists
and pioneers to brainstorm with us about how
the Marineterrein can contribute to enhancing
the development and international allure of
Amsterdam.
marineterrein.nl

6

MINI

what's new

EU PRESIDENCY

WHAT’S
NEW?
(in town)
All the latest cultural news plus the fresh
new initiatives, events and venues making
Amsterdam the place to be.

An interactive experience
with archaeological finds
from the intriguing Dutch
East India Company ship The
Amsterdam (1749) brings
stories about the European
trade network during this
period of history to life.
There are objects originating
from all over Europe and
historical documents revealing the names and addresses
of the Amsterdam merchants
who supplied these items to
the Company.
Poortgebouw Marineterrein,
Gebouw F, Kattenburgerstraat 5
(Voorwerf)
amsterdamdok.com

If you only do one thing
in Amsterdam, make it
one of our top picks of
must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music
and more!

1 MOCO MUSEUM
Amsterdam’s newest
museum, the Modern
Contemporary (Moco)
Museum, presents the
'rock stars of art' smack
in the middle of Museumplein. Moco exhibits
proven pioneers in modern
and contemporary art,
starting with Banksy and
Warhol.
Warhol: Royal Until 3 July
Banksy: Laugh Now Until
4 Sept
Moco Museum 
mocomuseum.com

A wonderful opportunity to
discover Amsterdam’s private gardens, stroll along
the city’s green oases and
remarkable garden houses.
Peek inside the luxurious
canal houses, enjoy some
fine art and pretend to be a
nobleman for the weekend.
17-19 June
Various locations
opengardendays.nl

Discover the world of
prostitution through the
eyes of Vincent Van Gogh
and many other well-known
19th-century artists, including Edgar Degas, Henri
de Toulouse-Lautrec and
Pablo Picasso.
Until 19 June
Van Gogh Museum 
vangoghmuseum.nl

3 FABCITY CAMPUS
This self-sufficient and hyper-connected look at the
city foretells our future
way of living. The green
campus will present about
50 pavilions, installations
and prototypes.
Until 26 June
Kop van Java-eiland 
europebypeople.nl

5 AMSTERDAM
SCHOOL AT STEDELIJK
In celebration of 100 years
of the Amsterdam School
architecture and design
movement, the Stedelijk
museum’s exhibition ’Living
in the Amsterdam School'
showcases its stunning furniture collection from the era.
Until 28 August
Stedelijk Museum 
stedelijk.nl

HOLLAND FESTIVAL
The Holland Festival is the leading international performingarts festival in the Netherlands since 1947, offering an exciting
mix of performances from all corners of the world. In line with
the EU Presidency, international artists present a series of performances focusing on current European issues. The festival’s
opening performance by Estonian directors Ene-Liis Semper
and Tiit Ojasoo, Die Stunde da wir nichts voneinander wußten,
shows the diversity and tensions of modern Europe, while the
film Ash and Money focuses on the phenomenon of political
populism.
4-26 June
hollandfestival.nl

REDERIJ LAMPEDUSA
Rederij Lampedusa has been sailing
two refugee boats in Dutch waters
since summer 2015. These boats were
given to them by the Italian authorities,
and now serve as a striking reminder of
the refugee situation. A joyful yet
poignant look at sailing – for fun and
for survival.
Mediamatic
Dijksgracht 6
rederijlampedusa.nl

FORUM ON EUROPEAN
CULTURE
What are the cultural values
that unite us? How can art
and culture offer creative
solutions to problems that
seem to be splitting us
apart? This biannual forum
explores the strength,
impact and value of art
and culture in Europe. This
year’s edition, entitled
“Re:Creating Europe”, is
curated by Yoeri Albrecht
(De Balie) and Cees de
Graaff (DutchCulture),
with contributions by
architect Rem Koolhaas (the
Netherlands), film director
Céline Sciamma (France),
theatre director Johan
Simons (the Netherlands),
historian Philipp Blom
(Germany) and political
scientist Chantal Mouffe
(Belgium), among many
others.
1-3 June
De Balie (and other locations)
Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 10
cultureforum.eu

The National Maritime Museum presents a series
of small exhibitions exploring various elements of
maritime life. Moored outside is The Amsterdam,
an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India
Company ship.
Closed during onsite meetings
hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl



FABCITY CAMPUS
FabCity functions as a living lab for alternative
design, development and production – finding
ecological and innovative solutions for cities and
everyday life. Participants create new social,
economical and logistical services, products and
systems in this temporary, self-sustaining city.
europebypeople.nl/fabcity-2/

PENSION HOMELAND AND EU VISITORS’
CENTRE 

The former officers’ quarters has a beautiful living
room, billiards room and restaurant that is open to
the public. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner in the
stunning mid-20th-century-designed restaurant.
Plus, they serve specialty beer, made at Homeland’s own brewery. The newly opened Visitors’
Centre for the Dutch EU Presidency, also at
Pension Homeland, showcases the history and
operation of the EU via photography and video
exhibits and interactive applications.
pensionhomeland.com

AMSTERDAM LIBRARY 

The top floor of the multilevel public library houses
the charming La Place, a restaurant and cafe with
fantastic views of the city.
oba.nl

CAFE ORLOFF 

A cosy cafe and bar located at Kadijksplein 11 –
really close to the Maritime Museum and Europe
building – serving delicious coffee and snacks.
facebook.com/CafeOrloffAmsterdam

classical music (with a twist). The main auditorium
has wonderful acoustics fit for intimate chamber
music as well as large orchestras. The Bimhuis is
housed in a striking black box, part of the
Muziekgebouw complex, and a veteran venue for
jazz and improvisational music concerts.
muziekgebouw.nl & bimhuis.com

A science center and museum housed in an
imposing Renzo Piano building, the museum
presents five floors of fun hands-on science
exhibitions. Don’t forget to spend some time on
the fifth floor, with its wide open space offering
amazing views of the city!
e-nemo.nl

ARTIS ZOO & MICROPIA 

Natura Artis Magistra is the oldest zoo in the
Netherlands and one of the oldest in mainland
Europe. Admire tropical fish in the aquarium, travel
through time at the planetarium or get up close
and personal with the free-roaming lemurs. Also
located in the complex is Micropia, the world’s first
museum dedicated to microbes and microorganisms.
artis.nl, micropia.nl

BROUWERIJ 'T IJ 

Located in an old bathhouse, and right next to the
ultimate landmark – a huge windmill! – Brouwerij 't
IJ is the best-known brewery in Amsterdam.
Offering high-quality beers since 1985, the bar is
open every day of the year (including holidays),
and offers tours on weekends.
brouwerijhetij.nl

9


















CAFE RESTAURANT DE PLANTAGE 

The stunning Plantage restaurant, just next to
the zoo, is housed in a breathtaking 19th-century
converted conservatory, which was a former
meeting facility for the members of the Artis Zoo.
And of course, the dishes are impressive, too.
caferestaurantdeplantage.nl

RESTAURANT FIFTEEN 

Top chef Jamie Oliver’s industrial-style restaurant offers
delicious Modern European food, served and prepared
by disadvantaged youngsters, trained by Oliver.
fifteen.nl

HANNEKES BOOM 

This shack-style, waterfront cafe is a cosy and alternative place to enjoy drinks and listen to live music. Hang
back, relax and watch the boats through the Oosterdok
waters.
hannekesboom.nl

10

MINI

EU PRESIDENCY

on stage

EUROPE BY PEOPLE
On Stage

‘Europe by People’ is the official arts and culture programme of the
EU Presidency 2016, commissioned by the Dutch Ministry of Foreign
Affairs. One of its projects is ‘On Stage’, an exciting programme of
performances, projects and exhibitions with a (new) European focus.
text Angel Trinidad

® GIANINNA URMENETA OTTIKER

‘On Stage’ is a dazzling
programme of theme-based
performances, projects and
exhibitions on several stages
throughout the city. Through
poetic words, images, dance and
music, contemporary and future
views of Europe come alive in
inspiring and thought-provoking
performances, reaching a peak
in May and June. We highlight
the events we're most looking
forward to:
8-12 May The Europe Now
international theatre festival
brings five European capital cities
together to tell the stories of
the ‘new Europe’, reflecting on
its changing demography and
polycultural reality.
20 May Theatre-maker Lucas De
Man embarked on a meaningful
journey trying to 'find' Europe. He
traveled to seven different countries and interviewed creators and

experts on the contemporaries of
Hieronymus Bosch.
2-5 June 'Nobody Home' is a
touching, humorous and critical
portrait of a young generation of
theatre makers from Iran, Syria
and Bosnia who fled to the stage
in search of a home.
4 June 'Majnun & Leyla' is an
enthralling, world-famous love
story in which longing drives the
protagonist insane. The story
is known and loved from New
Delhi to Rabat and has inspired
thousands of writers, musicians
and artists through the centuries.
World Opera Lab created a new
interpretation, performed in the
open air by artists and musicians
from different backgrounds,
showcasing a dazzling mix
of Turkish traditional music,
European baroque opera and
mystic Arabic and Andalusian
songs.
For the complete programme:
europebypeople.nl/on-stage

Frans de Vries is the
director of cultural
events agency De
Vries Producties and
is the steward of
‘Europe by People:
On Stage’. What can
we expect from this
programme, and
what inspires him?
WHAT IS THE MAIN
MESSAGE OF ‘ON STAGE’?
European society is changing rapidly.
To many artists and thinkers, this
time of transition we are living in
is an important source of inspiration. ‘Europe by People: On Stage’
will present a selection of artists,
dancers, designers, theatre writers,
choreographers and curators who
actively respond to current social
issues in their work. Explicitly or
implicitly, they present their vision
of Europe in their performances,
projects and exhibitions. They give us
a better understanding of Europe as
well as new insights into the role of
art in defining the European identity.
‘On Stage’ lets us discover how the
new generation of artists deal with
social issues such as migration, privacy, sustainability, urban development,
social innovation and international
conflicts.

CAN YOU TELL US MORE
ABOUT THE PROGRAMMES?
‘On Stage’ has been set up as a
multi-tiered programme. There are
performances, projects, exhibitions
and debates in Amsterdam as well as
further afield. The programme includes performances and projects that
have emerged from the bootcamp as

® MAARTEN ESSENBURG

Q&A

11

well as programmes proposed by
external arts organisations, selected
because of their connection with
the themes explored by Europe by
People. Some of these projects and
programmes will receive financial
backing from Europe by People,
others will receive support in terms
of complementary programming.

WHAT INSPIRES YOU ABOUT
EUROPE?
Europe has an infinite set of
languages, colours, sounds, religions,
art, rituals and habits, but for the
average person from Asia, for
example, we are all the same. The
shared feeling for European history
and art forms touches me deeply, but
mostly I get inspired by young
European makers and creatives who
co-create, giving a whole new
meaning to ‘Europe’.

HOW DOES THE
PERFORMING ARTS AFFECT
TODAY’S SOCIETY?
The arts, especially performing arts,
take you into a world of imagination
and are able to give a broader view
of the 'reality' around you. They
require you to recreate this reality.
For the full programme, please check:
europebypeople.nl

12

MINI

EU PRESIDENCY

amsterdam school

100 years of
Amsterdam School

The Amsterdam School of architecture and design celebrates its
100th birthday with a major exhibition at the Stedelijk Museum.

ÂŠERIK & PETRA HESMERG

text Catalina Iorga

13
‘AMSTERDAM SCHOOL OBJECTS ARE DEEPLY
ROOTED IN THE CULTURE OF THEIR TIME AND
HAVE A STRONG SENSE OF PLACE, REFLECTING
AMSTERDAM’S MULTICULTURAL SOCIETY’

S

ixteen years ago, on a rare sunny day,
Alice Roegholt, Director of Museum
Het Schip (The Ship), was cycling
through the Spaarndammerbuurt when she
suddenly came across a massive shipshaped building, its unusually wavy red
bricks perfectly framed by clear blue skies.
One side of the building harboured a
post-office sign, and Roegholt immediately
went in. ‘It was the most unexpected room;
my jaw dropped,’ she recalls. She had been
exploring the city to find a location for a
bottom-up initiative, a small museum
dedicated to illuminating the bond
between the architectural style called
Amsterdam School and beautiful social
housing for the city’s working-class
residents. Luckily, the Dutch post office had
already decided to abandon this location
masterminded by Michel de Klerk, the
Amsterdam School’s most prominent
architect and creator of ‘working-class
palaces’, as Roegholt likes to put it. The
room could thus be restored to its full
1920s glory, and in 2001, marking the
centenary of the 1901 Dutch Housing Act
(that had enabled better housing
conditions and affordable prices for poorer
citizens), the old post office reopened as
Museum Het Schip.

ART WITH A SOCIAL MISSION
Aesthetically, Roegholt describes the
Amsterdam School as ‘an expressionist
style full of humour and small details just
waiting to be discovered’. And socially
aware to boot. ‘Back then, the Socialist city
authorities were looking to craft a better
way of living for workers, who should also
see art on a daily basis, not just factories.
These architects were going all-out to help
solve a pressing societal problem,’ she
explains. It wasn’t just buildings that De
Klerk and his contemporaries were
responsible for, but a complete artistic

experience also comprised of furniture and
decorative objects. ‘You can think of
Amsterdam School furniture as miniature
buildings, and the buildings as scaled-up
furniture, as both these types of structures
contain similar elements,’ Roegholt adds.
Unlike Art Deco, a style recognisable the
world over, Amsterdam School objects are
deeply rooted in the culture of their time
and have a stronger sense of place,
reflecting Amsterdam’s multicultural
society by featuring motifs ranging from
Indonesian through Japanese to Swedish.

100TH ANNIVERSARY EXHIBITION
You can admire such furniture at the 'Living
in the Amsterdam School' exhibition, which
will be on display until August in the
Stedelijk Museum. The show features more
than 300 dressers, cabinets, lampshades,
ceramics, clocks and everything in between
from architects and designers such as De
Klerk and Piet Kramer, Amsterdam School’s
figurehead after De Klerk passed away. To
Roegholt, these objects best embody the
principle of ‘colour by form, with clever
light and shadow effects that reveal new
shades without the need to use paint’. And
thanks to the research efforts of the
Stedelijk Museum, which scoured both its
own collection and those of enthusiastic
amateurs for the most exciting pieces, the
innovative Amsterdam School design may
finally get the international exposure it
deserves.

LIVING IN THE AMSTERDAM SCHOOL
Until 28 August
Stedelijk Museum
Museumplein 10
www.stedelijk.nl

MUSEUM HET SCHIP
Spaarndammerplantsoen 140
www.hetschip.nl

14

MINI

EU PRESIDENCY

EU IN THE
CLASSROOM
text Angel Trinidad

BRINGING EUROPE CLOSER

One of projects of the city of
Amsterdam during the Dutch
Presidency is the ‘EU in the Classroom’
project, which aims to bring the EU
closer to young people. By inviting
EU officials to speak and give a guest
lesson in secondary schools, the school
project will literally put a face to the
European Union, making it come alive
for students and fostering a constructive dialogue.
The city invites professionals of the
European Institutions who will be
coming to Amsterdam to take an extra
hour or two to visit a school and meet
the young students of the city. More
than 20 schools in Amsterdam and
neighbouring municipalities are looking forward to welcoming EU officials
as guest speakers to share and discuss
their experience with the EU.
In partnership with the University of
Amsterdam and the organisation of
Amsterdam secondary schools, the
municipality aims to match school
teachers with EU officials according to their interests, specialties and
language requests.
During the programme, each EU official is assisted by a third-year European
Studies student from the University
of Amsterdam. These students have
put together a special ‘EU in the Classroom’ lesson programme and
developed lesson materials with school
teachers on various EU themes such
as security, the market, European
multilingualism and the origin and
function of the euro. The students act
as ambassadors between the schools
and the EU officials as they develop
the themes under the supervision of
the teachers.
amsterdam.nl/schoolproject

eu in the classroom

Q&A

15

We asked Joost
Ploeger, teacher of
economics at Open
Schoolgemeenschap Bijlmer
(OSB), about his
thoughts on ‘EU in
the Classroom’:
WHAT IS YOUR ROLE IN THE
'EU IN THE CLASSROOM'
PROJECT?
I am a mentor and teacher of 4thyear students (VWO) at Open
Schoolgemeenschap Bijlmer (OSB).
I wanted to teach my students
something more about the European Union. Therefore, I was very
happy to join the project.

DID YOU, AS A TEACHER,
LEARN SOMETHING
NEW?

'THE PROJECT
INSPIRED ME
TO DEVELOP
A RELATED
PROJECT
CONCERNING
THE POLITICS
OF THE EU AND
THE WAVE OF
REFUGEES
COMING FROM
THE MIDDLE
EAST'

I realised again how important it is
to sometimes leave the classroom
with the students to visit new places
and meet interesting people. It’s
also true the other way around; by
inviting interesting people to our
school, the students feel respected.
It is a nice experience for the visitor
as well. The project inspired me to
develop a related project concerning the politics of the European
Union and the wave of refugees
coming from the Middle East.

WHAT WAS THE MOST
INTERESTING THING THAT
HAPPENED DURING THE
LECTURES?
If I remember well, the lecturer
asked all the students who have at
least one parent or grandparent
born outside of the Netherlands to
stand up. An amazing amount of
people got up – I would say the vast

majority. It shows how diverse and
multicultural the population of
Amsterdam has become.

DO YOU THINK THE
LESSONS MADE AN IMPACT
ON THE STUDENTS?
In my opinion, the European Union is
quite abstract to young people,
even though some things are taken
for granted – like the euro and open
borders within the EU – because the
newer generation has almost no
memory of paying in the national
currencies or of being stopped at
the border within the EU. The
institutions of the European Union
are very complex and not many
students would know anyone
working there. It's the complexity
and the distance that makes the EU
abstract. It can be made less
abstract by teaching young people
not about the EU in general, but
about practical themes that occupy
the headlines of the newspapers,
like the economic crisis and the
refugees.

Do you wish to take part
of the programme as a
guest lecturer?
To learn more about the
EU in the Classroom
programme, visit:
amsterdam.nl/schoolproject

16

MINI

EU PRESIDENCY

180 amsterdammers

A city of openness

Amsterdam celebrates its unique history of openness and diversity
with the 180 Amsterdammers project. Russell Shorto looks back on
the city’s special history of embracing differences – the key to
Amsterdam’s success in the Golden Age.
text Angel Trinidad

A BEWILDERING MIX
‘In 1580, Amsterdam had 30,000
inhabitants. Fifty years later there
were close to 140,000, plus
swarms of undocumented aliens,
which a scholar recently estimated
would have numbered in the
hundreds of thousands, flooding
into the city to work on the
expansion or looking for places on
VOC ships. And the inhabitants
were a bewildering mix. At least a
third were foreign born. Most
immigrants were from Germany
and Scandinavia, but one could
have also seen and heard Africans,
Turks, Inuits, Laplanders and
others. The city was a cacophony
of languages.’ *
Jumping ahead another 400 years,
Amsterdam now counts exactly
180 nationalities according to the
Bureau of Statistics. Brits,
Germans, French, Italians, Ghanese
and Americans are among the
largest groups, as are Moroccans,
Surinamese and Turks, but you will
also find Bolivians, Moldavians and
Nepalese among the ranks of those
who call Amsterdam home.
*From Amsterdam: a History of the
World’s Most Liberal City by Russell
Shorto.

17

A history of diversity
text Russell Shorto

180 AMSTERDAMMERS
Amsterdam is a city with freedom in its heart.
Whatever their origin, people here feel free:
to be who they want to be, to write what
they want to write, to say what they want
to say. This freedom and tolerance has been
part of the city’s DNA since the 17th century.
This year, the city is celebrating this diversity
by collecting 180 stories by 180 Amsterdammers. These Amsterdammers come from 180
different countries, and each having forged
their own personal Amsterdam.
Each nationality is photographed and interviewed. Het Parool publishes one portrait
every weekday; this is complemented by 180
stories through various video and written interviews. Later in 2016, there will be a largescale campaign consisting of outdoor ads,
social-media campaigns, an exhibition, a book
and a dinner with all 180 Amsterdammers.
180 Amsterdam is an initiative of Amsterdam
Marketing, AmsterdamFM, Bridgizz, Nieuwwij, Story Supply, Het Parool, OBA, Amsterdam Museum and the City of Amsterdam. All
180 portraits are photographed by Michiel
van Nieuwkerk.
www.180amsterdammmers.nl

Amsterdam became the melting pot of
Europe in the 1500s and 1600s, setting the
template for modern urban life.
Amsterdam circa 1584 was the goal for
refugees: when Spain attacked the
provinces of what is now Belgium, bankers
and textile manufacturers, cartographers
and spice dealers, Jews and Christians fled
northward. In the midst of an intolerant
world, Amsterdam, as it took in hordes
from all over Europe and as far away as
Africa and the Middle East, discovered
that there was gold to be mined in the
reverse concept. Tolerance of differences –
not just on the part of the government,
but in the eyes of ordinary citizens, neighbours and people on the street – meant
connections to far-flung lands, business
deals, access to new ideas.
Amsterdam’s printers capitalised on the
city’s reputation as an entrepôt for new
ideas by announcing their availability to
print texts on a wide variety of topics,
virtually free of censorship. Soon the city
became the world capital of publishing.
Political and scientific tracts – both of
which were banned in many other places
for impugning ruling regimes – churned
from the city’s presses. Galileo and
Descartes had their works published by
Dutch printers. And those works contained
not only new ideas, but the seeds of new
industries. You’re an enterprising businessman and you read about the wondrous
possibilities of the telescope, or the microscope. What do you do? You open a
factory that produces lenses, eyepieces,
metal tubes, focusing knobs. The city’s
surgeons held public anatomy lessons by
dissecting the corpses of executed
murderers, causing a flurry of interest in
the subject. The presses got to work
producing exquisite full-colour texts
showing the intricacies of the human body.
A skipper from Norway or Iceland would
pull into the IJ, Amsterdam’s harbour, in a
vessel sporting an innovative hull design.
The city’s shipyards would get to work.
That is how Amsterdam became the centrepiece of the Golden Age, and, in time,
the model that other cities strove to copy.
‘Diversity’– in the sense of a target number of different nationalities – is not necessarily the point. Openness is the point.

18

MINI

EU PRESIDENCY

5 questions

5 QUESTIONS

LIVING POETRY
One of the cultural initiatives organised by the Dutch Chairmanship of
the EU and the City Council of Amsterdam, the Rona Mathlener
Projects share artistic and poetic visions of and hopes for Europe.
We posed five questions to cultural entrepreneur
Rona Mathlener and discovered a treasure trove of
inspiration.
1. PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR PROJECT.
Our project is called ‘In European Poetry, I Want to
Live’ in which we invite 56 poets – 28 young emerging
poets and 28 older ones – to reflect on three of the
European Union's big challenges: Europe and the
Refugee, Europe and Democracy, and Europe and
Peace. The poems will be spoken and displayed in both
English and Dutch from 2 to 8 May on Amsterdam’s
electronic billboards in the subway stations, Central
Station and Schiphol, as well as on The Wall at the
Marineterrein.

2. HOW AND WHY DID YOU COME UP WITH
THIS PROJECT?
As the European Union is currently stumbling from
crisis to crisis, we asked ourselves whether Europe is
more than just problems and issues... Can the
European Union still inspire us as it did earlier
generations? Is there a Europe beyond crisis? To us,
poetry seemed the perfect artform to reflect on these
questions; not to provide straightforward answers, but
to put these questions in a different perspective.

3. WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON EUROPE?
Although far from perfect, Europe is a political miracle.
After centuries of war and conflict, the European Union
has provided Europeans 70 years of liberty, peace and
prosperity. Quite a feat if you consider Europe's
history.

4. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT
AMSTERDAM?

DENNIS BOUMAN

Amsterdam is a great city to live in if you love culture
and if you’re working in the cultural sector. The large
national and international cultural supply is of such a
high quality that inspiration for new ideas and projects

is always within reach. Amsterdam is a true world city
with a special cultural infrastructure. Because
Amsterdam is, compared to other world cities, not
large in terms of population and area, the various
cultural disciplines can easily find each other and create
special collaborative projects found nowhere else in
the world.

5. WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES IN THE
CITY, IN TERMS OF ART, DESIGN, CULTURE AND
LITERATURE?
We are proud to live in a city like Amsterdam, where
we have such great cultural venues such as the
Concertgebouw, and wonderful museums, like the
Stedelijk Museum. We also love the buzzing art and
music scenes, and often go to the Bimhuis and
Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ.
ronamathlenerprojecten.nl

19

BACK THEN
Every year on 4 May, the Netherlands commemorates the victims of
war, and on 5 May, the country
celebrates the fact that it was
liberated. On 4 May 2015, King
Willem-Alexander and Queen
Máxima were present during the
70th national commemoration of
Remembrance Day in Amsterdam.
They laid the first wreath at the
National Monument on the Dam
Square that evening, just before
the two minutes of silence at eight
o'clock, observed in commemoration of all Dutch victims of war.
WHO DO WE COMMEMORATE?

People experienced the second
world war in very different ways,
depending on who they were,
what they stood for, what they did
or where they lived. All those
different experiences are reflected
in the different commemoration
ceremonies throughout the years.
During the national commemoration of Remembrance Day on 4
May, those various experiences
come together and the dead are
jointly remembered. Indeed, the
memorandum that sets out who
we commemorate on 4 May was
deliberately formulated in general
terms to ensure the inclusion of all
the different (groups of) Dutch
victims of war. Indeed, all those
who remained behind experienced
great personal grief for the loved
ones they lost.
4en5mei.nl/english

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS
MIGRANTS & THE
LLOYD FESTIVAL
The Lloyd Hotel & Cultural
Embassy presents a beautiful exhibition on the
migrant history of
Amsterdamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eastern
Docklands area, where the
hotel itself is located.
Between 1921 and 1935,
the hotel served as an
emigrant hotel for the
shipping company Royal
Dutch Lloyd. Thousands of
Eastern Europeans
emigrated via Lloyd Hotel
to Brazil to work on coffee
plantations. The project
shows that migration has
always been a part of
human life and is thus
related to the current
(European) reality. The
exhibition runs until 31
December.
On 29 May, Relate Events,
a group of students with a
focus on cultural entrepreneurship, presents the
Lloyd Festival, exploring
this history even further.
Through art installations,
tours, food events,
lectures, music and
storytelling, the festival
will tell the stories of
migrants then and now:
the doubt before leaving,
the fear of the journey,
going into the unknown
and the hope for a better
future.
Lloyd Hotel & Cultural
Embassy
Festival 29 May, 2-9 pm
Exhibition until 31 December
lloydhotel.com

21

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS
BERLAGE, GODFATHER
OF DUTCH DESIGN
Berlage could be considered
the most important designer
in Dutch history. He not
only designed the Beurs van
Berlage in Amsterdam, but
also the many exceptional
objects and pieces of furniture inside the building.
This exhibition showcases
authentic pieces of furniture
from Berlage's hand while
also looking at contemporary Dutch Design.
Beurs van Berlage, until
15 May
REMBRANDT’S NAKED
TRUTH
Based on the latest research,
'Rembrandt’s Naked Truth'
features 17th-century nude
studies that have never before been brought together
in such large numbers. It
will be the first time that
Rembrandt’s frank approach
to drawing nudes will be
examined in depth and
brought to the attention of a
wide audience. Expect more
than 50 objects collected
from around the world,
alongside pieces from the
museum's own collection.
Rembrandt House
Museum, until 16 May
BREITNER:
GIRL IN KIMONO
Breitner created this muchloved series between 1893
and 1896, immortalising
young model Geesje Kwak
through in his art. Here you
can see the entire series of
14 paintings,
including an unfinished
portrait and the largely unknown 'Girl in a Red Kimono', telling the story of how
these works were created
through the many preparatory drawings, sketches and
photographs that the artist
produced.
Rijksmuseum, until 22
May
CLOSE-UP: A NEW
GENERATION OF FILM
AND VIDEO ARTISTS IN
THE NETHERLANDS
As the title suggests, this
exhibition is an opportunity
for the EYE Filmmuseum to
offer up space to recent film
graduates and other fresh

Choice exhibition

HELMUT NEWTON: A RETROSPECTIVE
Admire the work of Helmut Newton (1920-2004), a
legendary photographer best known for his collaborations with French Vogue and the fashion industry. The
retrospective features more than 200 photographs
ranging from his rare to well-known works, and is a
testament to the complexity and multi-faceted nature
of his craft. Newton’s oeuvre is considered by some
to be one of the most iconic of the last quarter of the
20th century
17 June-4 Sep, Foam Photography Museum
talents. Presented as a group images not only presents the
exhibition of film/video
(at times gruesome) realworks and installations, the
ity of events on the world
exhibition offers a chance to
stage, but also the beauty of
discover a variety of interlife, sports, art, science and
esting artworks.
nature.
EYE Film Museum, until
De Nieuwe Kerk, until
22 May
10 Jul
SPANISH MASTERS FROM
THE HERMITAGE
Subtitled 'The World of El
Greco, Ribera, Zurbarán,
Velázquez, Murillo & Goya',
this grand exhibition of
Spanish art and artefacts
includes more than 60 superior paintings and a rich collection of graphic works and
applied-arts masterpieces.
In addition to the grand
masters, it features paintings by their pupils and later
painters, up to and including Picasso.
Hermitage Amsterdam,
until 29 May
WORLD PRESS PHOTO
The winning images from
the world's largest and most
prestigious annual press
photography contest begin
their world tour in Amsterdam each year, presenting
a reflection of trends and
developments in photojournalism. This collection of

MASTER OF LIGHT:
ROBBY MÜLLER
Robby Müller, the most
renowned cinematographer
from the Netherlands,
makes his personal archive
available to the public and
gives intimate access to his
life in self-shot videos. Besides moving images, there
are Polaroid photos, letters
and notes that capture what
it is like to work in the world
of cinema.
EYE Film Museum,
4 Jun-28 Aug
AMY WINEHOUSE:
A FAMILY PORTRAIT
Looking beyond the hype,
this exhibition presents an
intimate portrayal of the life
of songstress Amy Winehouse, emphasising her passion for music and fashion,
as well as the history of
her Jewish family and her
school days. The Winehouse
family has offered access to

many of Amy's personal belongings for this collection,
while the accompanying
stories by her brother Alex
make the experience even
more personal.
Jewish Historical Museum,
until 4 Sep
WORLD WAR II
TODAY
The exhibition gives young
generations a new way to
remember the second world
war. World Press Photowinning photographer
Roger Cremers captures the
manner in which people
commemorate the war, 70
years after its end. Since
2008, Cremers has been
collecting images throughout Europe of re-enactments, group tourism to
former concentration camps
and excavations of victims
from the attack on Stalingrad.
Verzetsmuseum, until
25 Sep
ARITA PORCELAIN
TODAY
The centuries-old tradition
of porcelain manufacturing in the Japanese town
of Arita has entered a new
era. Under the supervision
of the Dutch design duo
Scholten & Baijings and the
Japanese designer Teruhiro
Yanagihara, an elite group of
international designers have
produced a number of new
ceramic creations that can
be seen in this exhibition.
Rijksmuseum, until 31 Oct
CATHERINE THE GREAT
A collection of more than
300 paintings, sculptures
and personal objects of
Catherine the Great make
their way from St.
Petersburg to Amsterdam,
inviting spectators into her
world. This exhibition offers a unique glimpse into
the life of Europe’s longestreigning empress. Many of
her possessions, such as jewellery, dresses and other fine
artefacts, help to unravel her
decadent life.
Hermitage Amsterdam,
18 Jun 2016-15 Jan 2017
For the complete listing:
iamsterdam.com

22

MINI

what's on

EU PRESIDENCY

FESTIVALS & EVENTS
DOEK FESTIVAL
dOeK is an Amsterdambased collective of renowned
jazz musicians with a particular penchant for improvisation. And because improvisation is best done together,
they regularly get together to
perform – most importantly
at the annual dOeK Festival
centred on the Bimhuis, plus
independent venues like Zaal
100 and De Ruimte.
29 Apr-4 May, various
locations, doek.org
ROLLING KITCHENS
During the long holiday
weekend, hordes of mobile
kitchens descend upon the
park at the Westergasfabriek to create an enormous
open-air restaurant. Food to
suit every appetite is on the
menu, with everything from
fresh Italian pizza to sophisticated seafood dishes. Hunt
around for your favourite
dish(es), pick up your order
and relax in the sunshine (or
later in the evening, under
the stars) as you enjoy your
food.
12-16 May, Westergasfabriek, rollendekeukens.
amsterdam
YUMMYA AMSTERDAM
Normally reserved for ice
skaters, Amsterdam's premium ice rink is turning over its
grounds to a wide variety of
food trucks offering culinary
delights from crêpes and
wraps to Moroccan bastillas.
The festival is organised by
themes alluding to paradise,
including 'Garden of Eden'
and 'Adam and Eve'.
5-8 May,
Jaap Eden
IJsbaan, yummya.nl
OPEN ATELIERS IN THE
JORDAAN
Every spring, some 60 artists working in the Jordaan
neighbourhood invite visitors
to take a peek behind the
scenes as they throw open the
doors to their studios. Meet
the artists and view their
work, ranging from paintings
and sculptures to jewellery,
photographs and mixed
media.
14-16 May, various
locations, openateliersjordaan.nl

Choice event

SPRINGSNOW FESTIVAL
Every year, Amsterdam’s elm trees scatter a blanket
of blossoms over the city’s streets – a phenomenon
that has come to be known as ‘spring snow’. This
celebration of spring includes a walking route
past the city’s elm highlights, exhibitions and side
programmes.
Until 21 May, various locations, springsnow.nl
PARK AM SEE
Berlin-based club Watergate,
Amsterdam electro event collective Chasing the Hihat and
music magazine Deep House
Amsterdam present an enormous dance music festival in
a serene setting. DJ stars include Tom Trago, Prosumer
and Jeremy Underground.
21 May, De Oeverlanden,
parkamsee.com
DIYNAMIC FESTIVAL
The Hamburg-based record
label Diynamic heads west
to pack the park south of
Amsterdam full of pulsepounding dance beats. The
line-up includes Solomun,
Adriatique and Kollektiv
Turmstrasse.
27 May, Amsterdamse Bos,
diynamic-festival.com
909 FESTIVAL
The 909 Festival is all about
sun and beats, promising a
full day of the world’s best
techno in this forested park
in Amstelveen, at the southern end of the capital. DJs
Jeff Mills and Speedy J headline in 2016.
28 May, Amsterdamse Bos,
909.nl
KUNSTRAI 2015
The longest-running art fair
in the Netherlands offers art

lovers the chance to get their
hands on the latest and
greatest in the scene. Alongside the regular gallerycentred stands, booths are
devoted to individual artists,
allowing visitors to delve
deeper into their work.
Amsterdam RAI, Wed 1-Sun
5 Jun, various times,
kunstrai.nl
TASTE OF AMSTERDAM
Four days of summer eating,
drinking and entertainment
as top chefs from the city's
leading restaurants present
special menus of starter-sized
dishes in an unbeatable al
fresco gourmet feast. While
eating is a fine way to pass
the time, don’t forget to drop
in on a live cook-off (guests
judge the winner), lecture or
wine tasting between dishes.
And there's a farmers' market
so that you can take plenty
home, too.
Amstelpark, Thur 2-Sun 5
Jun, various times, €12
tasteofamsterdam.com
HOLLAND FESTIVAL
This leading international
performance-arts festival
provides Dutch and international theatregoers with a
survey of the best and most
widely acclaimed performance pieces from around
the world – plus a bunch of

world premieres. The festival
offers a heady mix of theatre,
music, dance, opera, film
and visual arts, as well as
Western and non-Western
performance pieces in a variety of languages. Highlights
from the festival can be found
throughout our A-list.
Various locations, 4-26 Jun,
various times & prices
hollandfestival.nl
LIVE AT AMSTERDAMSE
BOS
As well as its sport and recreation facilities, the dazzling
nature of the Amsterdamse
Bos is home to a picturesque
open-air theatre that reopens
for the summer season. Besides theatrical performances, look out for the diverse
singer-songwriter and pop
acts popping up there over
the coming months.
In June, it’s Candi Staton (7
June) and Maaike Ouboter
(12 June).
Amsterdamse Bos, from
Sun 5 Jun, various times
& prices
liveatamsterdamsebos.nl
THE BACCHUS WINE
FESTIVAL
A festival in honour of the
Roman god of wine! The
Bacchus Wijnfestival is set
to present more than 250
wines from all corners of the
world, in combination with
plenty of mobile catering,
DJs and live music. The 2016
edition takes place over two
weekends.
10-12, 17-19 Jun,
Amsterdamse Bos,
bacchuswijnfestival.nl
ITS FESTIVAL
The International Theatre
School Festival brings the
best new theatrical talent to
stages at theatres across Amsterdam every year, giving the
latest batch of home-grown
and international theatre
graduates a chance to showcase their talents in front of
a wide audience of theatre
fans, casting agencies, artistic
directors and the press.
22-30 Jun, various
locations,
itsfestivalamsterdam.com
For the complete listing:
iamsterdam.com

23

MUSIC & STAGE

GREAT LAKE SWIMMERS
Befitting their pleasantly
twee name, Great Lake
Swimmers are Canadian
folk rockers with lush interplay between guitars, violins
and soft vocals by singersongwriter Tony Dekker.
In the vein of Neil Young
and Nick Drake, their song
titles include 'A Jukebox in a
Desert of Snow', 'Something
Like A Storm' and 'Ballad of
a Fisherman’s Wife'. You get
the idea.
Sat 7 May, Sugar Factory,
20:00, €15
BASIA BULAT
Basia Bulat is a Canadian
folk singer with a penchant
for the autoharp, as well as
the piano and guitar. Basia’s
strong yet warbling voice
filled the Theatre Carre last
year when she supported
Sufjan Stevens. This year
she comes to the Paradiso
with a brand new album,
Good Advice.
Sun 8 May, Paradiso,
20:00, €13
ROD STEWART
Rock and soul legend Rod
Stewart will bring all his
classic hits as well as his new
record, Another Country,

NETHERLANDS PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA –
FINAL FANTASY
Gaming culture hits the
concert halls as the
Netherlands Philharmonic
Orchestra performs tunes
from Final Fantasy,
composed by Nobuo
Uematsu and Jonne Valtonen, in orchestral arrangements. Game soundtracks
have come a long way since
the 8-bit Tetris theme.
Sat 7 May, Concertgebouw,
20:15, €20-€34

Choice music

NDT IN AMSTERDAM
The prestigious Nederlands Dans Theater comes to
Amsterdam for a series of performances titled ‘Separate Ways’ – an exciting programme consisting entirely of
new pieces by Hofesh Shechter plus Sol León and Paul
Lightfoot. The British-Israeli Shechter is regarded as
one of Britain's most acclaimed choreographers. León
and Lightfoot have been a creative duo since 1989 and
are NDT’s in-house choreographers since 2002.
11-14 May, National Opera & Ballet, ndt.nl

ANDREW BIRD
Andrew Bird never settles.
The multi-instrumentalist
keeps busy both in the
studio, with records
regularly dropping, and on
stage, where he can be found
switching instruments,
looping sounds and
constructing great walls of
baroque pop and indie rock.
Fri 6 May, Paradiso,
20:00, €25

PORCHES
Slacker pop from New
York, Porches is Aaron
Maine and band. His first
record, 2013’s Slow Dance
in the Cosmos was scuzzy,
lackadaisical indie. However, this year’s Pool has a
cleaner sound with synths
to the fore –
a new addition to Maine’s
DIY studio, it seems.
Tues 17 May, De School
Amsterdam, 20:00, €12
his 29th studio album,
not to mention plenty of
hair gel, to the Ziggo Dome.
Ladies, don’t forget your
spare undies to throw.
Sat 14 May, Ziggo Dome,
€60
SUUNS
Montreal art rockers Suuns

RIHANNA
One of the biggest
names in the pop
world today, the Barbadian mixes RnB, pop and
dancehall across all her
records.
She returns to the
Netherlands to promote
new album Anti, featuring
sweaty, Patwa-tinged
single 'Work'.
Fri 17 June, Amsterdam
Arena, 19:00, €39
make effect-laden indie
that's alternately
crackling and jagged,
light and atmospheric and
drenched in distortion. Last
year they teamed with the
Canadian-Lebanese project
Jerusalem in My Heart and
this year released third
album 'Hold/Still'.

BRYAN ADAMS
Bryan Adams shows no
signs of slowing down. The
Canadian tours Europe to
promote his 2015 album Get
Up!, which leans
heavily on upbeat old-timey
rock 'n' roll and follows just
a year after previous effort,
Tracks of My Years, a record
of covers.
Tues 24 May, Ziggo Dome,
20:00, €39
THE HOUSE OF LOVE
Coming out of the
indie-shoegaze scene of
1980s London and inspired
by Jesus & Mary Chain,
House of Love recorded four
albums before their breakup in 1993. They reunited 10
years later, putting out Days
Run Away in 2005 and,
more recently, She Paints
Words in Red in 2013.
Thurs 26 May, Paradiso,
20:30, €20
LONDON CALLING
<SUMMER SPECIAL>
The summer edition of this
mini music festival has widened its coverage with four
acts from Australia. Royal
Headache is reminiscent of
Aussie pub punk. Methyl
Ethel makes psych-rock
comparable to Tame Impala,
while Slum Sociable mixes
lo-fi indie and soulful RnB.
Finally, Ben Forbes, aka
Banff, creates spacious guitar pop.
Sat 28 May, Paradiso,
18:00, €20
NELLY
Go and take a ride ‘wit’ Nelly
at the Melkweg. Blending
hip hop and pop perfect for
the club dancefloor, Nelly
has been making it ‘Hot in
Herre’ since the turn of the
century. When he’s not
singing, or getting caught
with drugs and guns on his
tour bus, he’s starring in his
own reality TV show,
Nellyville.
Thur 2 June, Melkweg,
19:30, €32
For the complete listing:
iamsterdam.com

24

MINI

EU PRESIDENCY

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS

Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you
reaching for your credit card.

text Angel Trinidad & Catalina Iorga

ta ke-away a m s terda m
THE NEW I AMSTERDAM
STORE IN CENTRAL STATION

design paradise
X BANK
Located in a former Art Deco bank, just a few steps away
from the Dam Square, X Bank is a 700 m2 hybrid store filled to the brink with today’s most inspiring Dutch fashion,
art and design. This ‘bank of wonders’ presents a comprehensive collection of works by over 180 premium, upcoming and influential Dutch designers, including Avelon,
Bas Kosters, Driessens & Van der Baar, Droog, Schuller De
Waal and many others. With prices ranging from 8 euros (a
tin of Dutch apple syrup) to 80,000 euros (a pistol artwork
by Ted Noten), every small and big treasure can be found
here: from jewellery, men’s suits and bags to design objects, magazines and artwork. The product curation is meticulously executed with the concept of collaboration in
mind. You can easily get in touch with the designers – who
often live closeby – should you wish to know more about
the designs or want a custom-made outfit. Downstairs is X
Bank Art, a contemporary art gallery featuring exhibitions
small and large. Spend hours wandering and discovering
your next favourite brands in this eclectic design paradise.
Spuistraat 172
xbank.amsterdam

Those craving local treats with a conscience should look no further than
the brand new I amsterdam store,
housed under the mirrored roof of
Central Station’s shiny IJ hall. A
sprawling 300 m2 affair, the shop
wants locals to feel proud of the city’s
vibrant cultural scene and innovative
artisans.
Among the socially minded products
are chocolate bars from Tony’s Chocolonely; organic brews from the city’s
original microbrewery, Brouwerij ’t IJ;
and natural, paraben-free skincare
goodies made by Marie-Stella-Maris, a
social enterprise keen on making clean
drinking water the global norm.
One of the store’s highlights is a wall
showcasing 27 home-grown products
and brands.The store also offers personalised advice for your trip: ask one
of the enthusiastic insiders, who will
be walking around the store, ready to
tell you where the city’s finest coffee
or most cutting-edge exhibitions are
to be found.
Central Station IJ Hall
iamsterdam.com

25

TRIP AROUND EUROPE
Cosmopolitan shopping & dining in Amsterdam

text Angel Trinidad

Austria

KLEIN TIROL
A hidden gem in the busy Leidseplein area,
this cosy restaurant serves juicy schnitzels,
warm apfelstrudel and cold beers. The
wood-panelled walls and decor reminiscent
of ski chalets will take you back to the
Austrian Alps.

Finland

A PIECE OF FINLAND
This beautiful concept store offers food,
objects, clothing and travel accessories by
Finnish designers. There is also a coffee
corner where visitors can relax and enjoy
pastries and delicious coffee from a
Finnish roastery.

LOCAL GOODS STORE
With every purchase at this beautiful
concept store, you are funding the
work of local Dutch designers, creators and brands. The Local Goods
store, located in the beautiful De
Hallen, presents innovative and original products: books, T-shirts, art,
jewellery, food and accessories, all
made by local creatives.
Hannie Dankbaarpassage 39 
localgoodsstore.nl

Germany

CAFE BRECHT
This cosy Berlin-style living-room
cafe is decorated with vintage
mismatched sofas, chairs and lampshades, making for a relaxed and
unpretentious hangout. Serving
German beers, soft drinks and light
bites, it is the perfect spot for an
after-work drink.

Denmark

Utrechtsestraat 78 
bolia.com

Haarlemmerstraat 80 
petitgateau.nl

Italy

Weteringschans 157 
cafebrecht.nl

BOLIA
Danish furniture and lifestyle chain
Bolia has recently opened its doors in
Amsterdam. Discover an idyllic world
of cosy, personal and innovative 'New
Scandinavian Design' with their
beautiful handmade furniture in
minimal styles, luscious colours and
inviting textiles.

PETIT GÂTEAU
Petit Gâteau is a delightful French
pastry shop located in the lively
Haarlemmerstraat. Enjoy their
heavenly selection of miniminis (6 cm
cakes in different flavours), macarons,
madeleines, quiches and eclairs. Ooh
la la!

Belgium

VLAAMS FRITESHUIS VLEMINCKX

A long line snaking down the street
can always be seen beside this small
friet stand. Vleminckx sells delicious
homemade Belgian fries and 25 different types of sauces, and was voted
2nd-best snack corner in Holland by a
Dutch newspaper. The best things in
life are worth waiting for, as they say.
Voetboogstraat 31-33 
vleminckxdesausmeester.nl

SPAGHETTERIA
This beautiful spaghetti bar offers
fresh, homemade pasta made according to ancient Italian traditions. The
menu consists of three permanent
classics and three other traditional
dishes, which change on a daily basis –
all made from organic flour from
Emilia Romagna.
Jan Hanzenstraat 32 
spaghetteria-pastabar.nl

Portugal

GIRASSOL
This small family restaurant is the oldest Portuguese restaurant in the Netherlands. Simple, friendly, and laid-back,
Girassol serves delectable Portuguese
dishes and organises melancholic fado
evenings from time to time. Their terrace – one of the most beautiful in Amsterdam, facing the Amstel river – is
now open for the summer.
Weesperzijde 135 
girassol.nl

panoramic views
DAK RESTAURANT
The newly renovated restaurant on the 5th floor
of the marvelous NEMO museum is now open.
DAK uses sustainable technology, one of the museum architect’s original ideas finally coming to
full fruition. Visitors can enjoy light snacks and
lunch, from homemade lemonade to tasty sandwiches. During the summer, the restaurant and the
rooftop square stay open later – perfect for sunbathing and enjoying the long summer days.
Oosterdok 2
e-NEMO.nl

mid-century marvel
PENSION HOMELAND

T

he Marineterrein has existed for 350
years, originally a huge shipyard, which
closed its gates in 1915. In addition to
the historical buildings, including the lovely
Gate House (now classified a national monument), new accommodations were constructed
in the 1960s for marine officers during their
Amsterdam stay. Pension Homeland, a hotelrestaurant that opened its doors last summer,
is housed in the building that welcomed the officers. The common longroom, where the marines used to relax, play billiards or throw
swanky parties in their white uniforms, has
been transformed into the hotel’s restaurant,
which is open from breakfast to dinner and
serves polished European fare such as Dutch
oysters, deer Wellington and Mandarin trifle.
What’s really worth the detour is the authentic
1960s decor, from the pop artwork hanging on
the wood-panelled walls to the colourful furniture.
Kattenburgerstraat 5
pensionhomeland.nl

lush dining
DE PLANTAGE
The stunning Plantage restaurant, just next to the
Artis zoo, is housed in a breathtaking 19th-century converted conservatory. It was a former meeting facility for the members of the zoo. With its
gorgeous steel and glass walls, romantic lighting
and airy atmosphere, it is definitely one of the
most beautiful restaurants in the city.
Plantage Kerklaan 36
caferestaurantdeplantage.nl

27

THE SWEETEST SPOTS

From traditional Dutch treats such as stroopwafels and poffertjes
to more classic cakes and pastries, these dessert addresses’
specialties will make your saccharine dreams come true.
text Angel Trinidad

IJSCUYPJE

speculaas ice cream
This chain of ice-cream shops offer
the best homemade ice cream in
the city in the most special flavours.
Our tip: the speculaas ice cream,
made out of the traditional Dutch
spiced cookie.
Eerste van Helststraat 27
Prinsengracht 292, and more

WINKEL 43

apple pie

Winkel 43’s generous portions of
crunchy baked apple pie are served
with dollops of delicious whipped
cream and heralded as the best
appletaart in the city. Just go.
Noordermarkt 43

This beloved Amsterdam
institution has been around since
1886, offering the best classical
cakes in town. Local favourites

TOMPOUCE

include flavoured chocolates and
the lemon meringue cake. Don’t
miss out on the champagne cake; it
tastes as lovely as it sounds.
Vijzelgracht 15

NOORDERMARKT

poffertjes

Poffertjes are like mini pancakes,
but fluffier and puffier. The most
delicious and buttery ones are
made fresh and sold on the streets.
Check the stands at the Noordermarkt flea- and organic market for
this traditional Dutch treat.
Noordermarkt

BLOMMESTEIN

tompouce

This bakery produces the most
delicious tompouces in Amsterdam. The tompouce is one of the
most iconic (and difficult to eat)
Dutch pastries: two layers of puff
pastry with cream filling, topped
with smooth pink icing.
Churchilllaan 26

HET OUD-HOLLANDSCH
SNOEPWINKEL

traditional candy

The Old Dutch Candyshop, located
in the heart of the Jordaan district,
offers delightful candy made the
way our grandparents used to
enjoy it. Dare to try drop (licorice)
– most Dutchies’ favourite candy.
Egelantiersdwarsstraat 2

LANSKROON
BANKETBAKKERIJ

stroopwafels

Famous for their giant-sized
homemade stroopwafels, this
confectionary tea room has been
around since 1908, boasting four
generations of master bakers.
While traditional stroopwafels have
caramel filling, Lanskroon offers
two mouthwatering flavours:
hopjes (coffee and caramel toffee)
and honing (honey).
Singel 385

DRS KOEKKENBAKKER

customised cakes

This lovely lady creates the most
amazing customised birthday and
wedding cakes. Arienne does not
have a shop or bakery open to
public yet, so requests are done via
phone or e-mail. The chocolate
cake with raspberry mousse is
delicious!
drskoekenbakker.nl

VAN STAPELE
KOEKMAKERIJ

chocolate cookie
Hidden in a small alleyway close
to the Spui Square lies a small
cookie store selling the best kind of
chocolate cookie in the world: dark
chocolate cookies with melt-inyour-mouth white chocolate inside.
Heisteeg 4