So, after an impulse N+1 purchase I'm now the proud owner of an FM098.

It's a Di2 frame and really deserves that group set but at the moment I can't really justify it. I have most parts I need already and only need brifters and rear derailleur. It will be a mixture of parts, force brakes, apex cranks, 105 FD, ultegra chain and cassette. At the moment I'm leaning towards just getting Ultegra brifters and RD however I'm insure on cable routing.

The frame I have has no cable stops for the RD. So this means I'll need to run full length cable outer from the shifters to RD.

My question is in regards to routing the cable outer past the bottom bracket. Should it go above the BB or below? Does it actually matter? I don't even know if it will go under but before I spent too long trying I thought I'd ask.

I'm also waiting on a fork expander bung and its so frustrating not being able to do any of the build, let alone ride it.

So I haven't seen one of these in the flesh, but I think the RD should be fine with full length outer. I run it under the down tube, under BB and along the chainstay. The FD is another question altogether. I can't think of an easy way to terminate the outer, either above or below the FD mount. The Seattube shape doesn't lend itself to a clamp on cable guide, so a bit of ingenuity will be required.

The FD is actually easy because it has cable stops and inners already in the frame. Don't know why they chose not to do the same with the RD but based on a bit of research it's not just my frame that has this? Obviously if they have the stops and inners for the FD that doesn't prevent the Di2 wires being pushed through.

Tough decision, just spend 250 odd on what I really need or pony up the extra 700 on Di2.

So the DI2 frame has stops and routing suitable for a mechanical FD? Interesting. Like I said, I haven't seen one in the flesh. If your interested, I have 6600 Brifters & DA 7800 RD I could do for say $180 posted (express) as a cheap way to get you rolling.

Mines Di2 so I never grappled with these issues, does the ''gear inner routing" allow for outer cables sizing?From memory there is an exit hole underneath the BB, were does that go to/from? I never used it.

Hi Crawf, the hole near the BB is for a mech FD. The cable for the FD runs down the left through the inner, comes out the hole, goes under the BB on the outside of the frame and vertically through another hole / inner up to the FD. You could run an outer under the BB however when I set it up and tried pulling the cable back and forth there was a fair amount of friction due to the bend in this small amount of outer. Not sure how it would affect shifting.

The more I think about it the more I'm thinking I might as well just go Di2 now. I know I will always think about every time I ride the bike.

I just need to get my head around Di2 now, with E-tube cables and the different junction boxes I've seen. I won't be waiting or going to 11 speed as that would require new wheels and all my other bikes are 10 speed anyway.

Crawf did you just run all the Di2 cables down the drive side if the frame?

Yep all Di2 cables down the drive side, only other cable is obviously the rear brake. All a cinch to get installed with some poking and pulling.P.S. Go Di2, you won't regret it, it's brill. Be sure to go internal battery and the new junction.

A few tips:You can at least get the cables routed, that's the hardest part, I used a wire coat hanger were needed and a zip tie with a loop on the end to grab and pull the SD50's through.With the internal seat battery be sure to look down the seat tube to see whats going to be in the way first. I used clear silicone from the hardware store to stick it in the seat post half hanging out, with the silicone - it keeps it in place firmly, has some absorption qualities, but can be easily pulled out if needed later on, unlike liquid nails or similar,

Thanks for the tips. I'm also waiting on some of the cable tie things to clip on the cables to prevent rattling. I did see on the web that some people wrap the internal battery in foam to stop it moving around.

Happy days! Everything has finaly arrived and the build has started. Hoping to have it all completed for Around the Bay ride but not sure if I'm going to have the time to build and take it for a few longish rides to sort out issues and get the set up right for a 210km ride.

I was so surprised by how small the internal battery is. Its tiny. The cable routing was actually pretty easy. I used a spare brake cable inner, tied some fishing line onto the end and pulled it though. That allowed me to tie the line onto the Di2 cables and pull them through fairly easy. One thing I found is that with the internal cables, probably best to deterine the sizes you need and then add 5cm to each cable (other than the shifter to Junction-A). Lengths are all ok, but an extra few cm on each wouldn't have hurt.

Everything plugged in, hooked it up to the laptop and ran the e-tube software - no shifters detected. Bugger! Check the cables and they seem to be plugged in. Check again and still no joy. So tried again and 'click', in go the wires. It was so much harder to plug the wires into the shifters than all the other components. All the firmware updated and I'm good to go.

I'm a bit of a nerd and love gadgets, so I'm in heaven. In response to another thread, do I need Di2? No. Do I want it and love it? Yes! I can see it's going to be hard to resist changing the commuter to Di2.

I had a play around setting the multishift and that's interesting. Tried the different options and pretty cool holding the button down and the RD continuall shifting and the FD also making adjustments at the same time.

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