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Jul 06 2014

Corneotherapy – Healthy Skin Barrier Function

When I first heard this word, I have to admit I thought it had something to do with the eyes. Corneotherapy has to do with the study of the skins barrier function. Barrier damage is often mistaken for dehydration when actually dehydration is often a symptom of the larger issue of barrier dysfunction. Lipids trap water between cells but when the lipids are damaged, water evaporates – causing the skin to become dehydrated. This is called TEWL “Trans Epidermal Water Loss”. Inflammatory chemicals are also released when barrier function is in disrepair causing inflammation in the skin.

Barrier dysfunction also sets the stage for premature aging and inflammation. In order to solve many skin issues we must first address barrier function and repair. If we do not do that first and foremost, any positive changes in the skin may be short-lived. It really is all about maintaining and keeping a healthy barrier function to have our best skin.

In 1979, Dr. Peter Elias discovered lipids between skin cells – naming his discovery the “brick & mortar” model of the skin. This was a very important discovery since before that we thought the skin cells were alone – learning that this lipid barrier exists changed the way we treat the skin.

When we have a healthy skin barrier our skin retains moisture, feels smooth and inflammation is lessened. When the barrier is damaged moisture escapes, skin feels rough and inflammation occurs.

There are many environmental influences on barrier damage:

UV Exposure

Climate Changes

Air Pollution

Tobacco Smoke

Cosmetics

Microbes

AHA’s, Retinoids, Peels

Allergens

Topical or Oral Drugs

Diet

Alcohol

Hot Water

Computer Screens

Smart Phones

There are also many Internal Influences on Barrier Damage

Age

Genetics

Emotional Stress

Hormones

Illness

Rosacea

Psoriasis

Eczema

Acne

Acute Dermatitis

A healthy stratum corneum is our first line of defense and limits penetration into the body of:

environmental toxins

Microorganisms

Mold

Yeast

Fungus

Bacteria

Yeast

Insects

Our skin truly is our defense from the outside world and our stratum corneum is on average only as thick as one strand of the individuals hair.

The first person to assemble symptoms of Stratum Corneum damage under one treatable condition was internationally acclaimed research dermatologist Albert Kligman, MD. Dr. Kligman named the process to repair damaged stratum corneum “Corneotherapy” in the 1960’s. Corneotherapy is an old term that is now becoming popular in esthetics.

Using gentle cleaners and applying serums is a great way to restore lipids and prevent lipid oxidation. I recommend that when getting a facial clients bring their products with them to their appointment so their esthetician can see what products they are using to make sure they are the right ones for your skin. Using prescription Retinols over .025% can cause barrier damage as can harsh cleansers.

Humectants are very important for hydration and barrier function – some popular ones:

Panthenol

Honey

Hyaluronic Acid- Sodium Hyaluronate

Polysaccharides

Laminaria digitata

Lactic Acid

Glycosaminoglycans

Algae Peptides

Amino Acids

In closing, we want to avoid environments that cause barrier damage, use skincare products formulated specifically for barrier damaged skin, i.e.. “professional products”. We want to avoid irritants and common allergens, hydrate and seal and protect newly formed lipids from oxidation.

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