Friday, February 13, 2015

Finished Object: StyleArc Elita

You can see the extra length of fabric (just above the closure) that could be removed by a dart to improve the fit.

Top-stitched, centre back seam at neck. The shoulders come together very nicely - with none of the hassle of Vogue 8790 (which has the same basic shoulder construction).

This is what happens if you opt to wear the cowl un-wrapped. It actually looks quite good, and totally different than the wrapped version...

It really fits the bill, and trust me, these days I have no patience.

Keep in mind, it fits large. I made a modified size 10 - using a stable knit - but I could have made the 8 and I still would have had to take it in. The fabric I used is from Fabrications. I can't recall what exactly it's made of but it's cotton and synthetic and it was listed the sweatshirting section, if I'm not mistaken. It's more refined than fleece. The back is a vaguely stripey, very soft black/grey and the right side is slate. It's structured but drapey. It's dress-, jacket- and pant-weight.

My alterations were:

Shortening the length of the bodice and sleeves by 2 inches. (This is standard for me, esp. with StyleArc, which designs for a long torso.)

I didn't use the tie closure. I've opted for a snap closure which is weird since I always have trouble with these. In this instance I had to resew the placement 3 times and it's still not right. The fabric isn't quite firm enough to deflect warping under the strain. The jacket is in no way too-small - the snap just doesn't want to hold up against the drag of the fabric. Maybe the snap is too small?

I removed an inch from the centre back. I know it says that the unaltered version fits shoulders of 15", but mine are @15" and this top would have been an inch too wide in the shoulders and back if I hadn't done this.

I narrowed the shoulders slightly (and then discovered I needed to sew another seam .25" inside the original seam to achieve a perfect fit.

I raised the armscye slightly. (This was done intuitively, not using math.)

I finished the hem seams with a half-inch hem (stablilized with stretch interfacing tape) for a more refined end-product. I also hemmed the edges that meet at the centre front. I feel that raw edges can look unrefined.

I shortened the sleeve head by about an inch. This is also standard for me. Let me say, I don't know how the sleeve, as drafted, could work with the armscye, because I barely altered the armscye and yet I had to take my standard 1" from the top of the sleeve. Something is up. The instructions advise that you should use the basting ease method. Why? Draft the arm to fit the armscye and save everyone the trouble. It's not rocket science.

Next time, I'll do what Anne suggests, which is to remove a dart of fabric from the cowl where it meets the bodice front. There's too much fabric there and it drags slightly. This isn't particularly observable because of the cut of the garment and the cowl, but the fit could be improved. And I don't think it has to do with fabric choice. Sure, Anne used a very drapey silk jersey but I used a robust ponte and I'm having the same issue.

Furthermore, this pattern, sleeves notwithstanding, is very well drafted and easy to assemble. The instructions, with tech drawings, really make it a pleasure to construct. I taped the pattern, made alterations and cut the fabric in one session. Next session I marked the fabric, set up my machines and sewed the garment. The sewing took 3 hours from start to finish.

The silhouette is quite good, even if it does fit on the large side, before alterations. It's forgiving so I imagine it would be a sensible first knit project. Keep in mind, if this doesn't fit in the shoulders it's going to look amateur so if that's the only thing you perfect, make sure you don't just assume that the back width is going to work.

It's a really practical, slightly edgy garment, just the kind I love to make. Thoughts?

17 comments:

Isn't it nice and warm? I really like the draping of the collar, very up-to-the-moment.

Interesting that you had the same problem with the front edge being too long. I had thought that a beefier fabric would have taken some of the volume out of the cowl, lifting up the front edge. Guess that wasn't the case!

I just cut out the pattern for this today and plan to alter/cut this weekend. If I'm lucky I'll sew it up too, but I have to prewash fabric and also have a pair of jeans to finish up. That is all sleepy typing babble, though--my point is that I'm into this one too! When I got the email from Style Arc I was taken with the design right away. Excited to make it up.

It looks great with jeans - so get on those :-) It's very easy to assemble and enjoyable to sew. But def make your alterations before you sew it up because I sense this one might look as bad if the fit is off as it does great when the fit is right.

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