Americans Make Slow Progress Toward Goal Of A Healthier Diet

Traditionally, New Year's is a time for change. But when it comes to American eating patterns, recent reports suggest that a dramatic turnabout is unnecessary. A few adjustments are indicated for 1986, but not a major shift in direction.

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has reviewed the American diet from 1950 to 1984. The Food Marketing Institute (FMI) has been tracking consumer attitudes about food, nutrition and related issues for 14 years.

In its 1985 survey, FMI reports that the representative sample of consumers surveyed are spending more on food. They tend to emphasize both convenience and economy in their purchases. More than half buy carry-out items on a regular basis, and half purchase generic products regularly. More than one-third patronize the new supermarket salad bars, and 28 percent are buying foods designed for microwave ovens.

While 59 percent said they were very concerned about the nutritional content of their foods (down 4 percent from the previous year), concerns about the fat content of foods have risen over the past two years. Many consumers worry about cholesterol levels. Many are concerned about sugar and salt in foods.

Nearly half (44 percent) are comfortable with their eating habits. Of those who have made changes, 5 percent say they are eating more, while 7 percent say they eat less.

Changes mentioned most often are less meat (9 percent) and more vegetables (also 9 percent). Five percent are eating more fruit. Baby-boomers lead in increasing consumption of fruits and vegetables in general, and in particular of fresh produce. This is also the group that claims to be eating more food.

Taste, ease of preparation, and nutritional and health values are the major reasons given for choosing one main course over another. Men opt for beef over poultry 2 to 1, while women are equally divided between the two. Men favor fish as a main course 2 to 1 over women.

Nuts, grains and popcorn rate high as snack foods, as do fruits and vegetables, which are chosen as often as ice cream, pretzels and chips. Health and nutritional considerations are second to ease of preparation in snack selection.

These answers mirror long-term trends revealed in the FDA's 1950-1984 survey. Yearly fruit and vegetable consumption is rising, now almost back to the 1950 level, after a sharp decline in the mid-'60s. Americans also are eating a greater variety of fruits and vegetables. Sadly, consumption of potatoes, a good low-calorie food, is down from 115 pounds in 1950 to 90 pounds today.

Larger stores carry as many as 250 items in the produce department. In many stores that department has replaced the meat counter as the major drawing card, especially for health-conscious consumers. About half the fresh fruits, incidentally, are eaten as snacks.

Consumer behavior at the meat counter has changed, too. Total consumption of meat, poultry and fish hit an all-time high in 1984, and beef is still the odds-on favorite. But beef consumption is down 24 pounds per person from its 1971 peak of 169 pounds, and poultry consumption has doubled since the 1950s. Fish also has increased in popularity, but more slowly. According to a 1980 survey by the Department of Agriculture, three out of every five households have made these changes for ''health and nutrition reasons.''

Nutritional awareness also has hit the dairy department. Consumption of eggs, whole milk and cream has dropped steadily since the '50s. People now choose margarine twice as often as butter. Consumption of low-fat and skim milk has shot up by more than 1,500 percent. And yogurt is sold at the rate of 3 pounds per person per year, compared with one-third of a pound 20 years ago. Not all the news is good. Soft drinks, beer, wine and distilled spirits are outselling milk. This is disquieting because of the alcoholic content of some, and because milk is our best source of calcium. We may have turned the corner, however. Since 1983, dairy-beverage consumption has been increasing, with low-fat milk in the lead.

The American sweet tooth is still prominent. Despite growing use of non- caloric sweeteners, consumption of caloric sweeteners has risen from 115 pounds per person to 127 pounds in 1984. That's 14 tablespoons a day, most of it contained in processed foods.

Finally, there is the bad news in the FMI survey that the baby-boom generation feels less concerned than older groups about the nutritional content of their foods in general, and about fat, cholesterol, salts and sugar in particular. This may mean that many have altered their diets and no longer feel worried. But for those who are both unconcerned and unwise in food- selection practices, their long-term nutritional well-being and that of their children may be endangered.

So there is some room for New Year resolutions. In general, American eating patterns in 1986 seem to be steering a steady course.