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Topic: Rear Brake Pads 1200 Sport (Read 406 times)

Rear pads on the 1200 Sport 2V are almost to the metal. I had the rear wheel off for tire change. Wheel back on. Didn't want to replace caliper without installing new pads, which I've done a couple of times over the past 10 years. Plain old two pot Brembo.

I see the pin holding the pads, but for the life of me don't recall how I removed the retaining pin. I thought there was a small clip that had to be removed with small long nose pliars, permitting the retaining pin to be driven out.

I don't see the clip, and cannot tap the pin in either direction to get it to move.

From memory there is a clip on the pin on the inner side of the caliper but I'll have to go and have a Squizzy. It's early in the morning and I'm barely awake. Once it's off the pin can be knocked out from the inner side.

From memory there is a clip on the pin on the inner side of the caliper but I'll have to go and have a Squizzy. It's early in the morning and I'm barely awake. Once it's off the pin can be knocked out from the inner side.

Thanks, Pete,

It's 6 pm here (Wed evening) and I'm thru fooling with it any more today. But looking forward to your comments.

BTW, do you have any 'hints' for reinstalling front and rear wheels on these CARC bikes, specifically the 12S? I had a spare front axle I could insert to help align the right side while pushing the axle thru from the left side. Can't find it!

My only 'shadetree' solutions are to put bike on center stand, and use a couple of scissor jacks to adjust the height on front, then rear, so things are aligned. There must be a better way! It's very tedious.

Nothing showing the Sport up without wheels. Here's a pic of the BMW a few years ago waiting for me to pick up the wheels from Dougherty's, the shop I've used for years to mount tires for me. I take the front and rear wheels to their shop in trunk of car. Bike waits at home patiently on center stand and two scissors jacks. This method may not be suitable for everyone. Not a recommendation, but you asked.

Hereís the thing..Same as my Norge. The pin does have a small retaining clip, but also the head has a annular type expanding spring that requires a sharp tap to dislodge.Youíve to tap it out from the outside towards the wheel if memory serves.Either that or the other way around..! My bike is on the surface (hopefully) of the Indian Ocean or Iíd be off like a brideís nightie for a look...!Anyway, tap it from the retaining clip end towards the other end.Had mine out at least 8 times.Visible in this shot. (Tap from this side towards wheel)

Well, one more time. This drawing shows the retaining clip, or 'split post' as the parts manual refers to it, on the inside of the caliper, toward the wheel. Part Number 4. Back to the garage! This has been worse than fighting the 'quick disconnect.'

Semi-success. I was able to remove the retainer pin by simply taking a countersink punch and tapping steadily (not really hard,) and finally, out it came. I tapped from the outer side of the caliper toward the bike side. What popped out was the pin with what looks almost like a small compression fitting with a slit cut in it. I think that's the part that holds the pin in place. I believe that's the piece Huzo called an 'annular type expanding spring.' BTW, thanks Huzo. That was a good tip.

Problem now is getting the new pads back in the caliper, and staying in place so I can get the pin thru them.

I know my comments on this issue make me sound like an amateur. I'm not. Just can't figure out why I'm having these difficulties with such simple problems.

Just a quick once over on the wire brush for the pin and a one femtoeth of a cubic centimetre of grease on the head of the pin where the retaining ďspringĒ is..Re fit the little circlip to the outer end of the pin.Itíll then go in and out like an.....Ēin and out thingĒ... Push the pistons back into their bores before fitting the pads. But be careful not to overflow the m/c..Also.I canít conceive of there being a drama, but be careful using a countersink punch. You may succeed in expanding the pin and resulting in it jamming.While itís out, Iíd make sure I hadnít done that and use a pin punch next time.

It's 6 pm here (Wed evening) and I'm thru fooling with it any more today. But looking forward to your comments.

BTW, do you have any 'hints' for reinstalling front and rear wheels on these CARC bikes, specifically the 12S? I had a spare front axle I could insert to help align the right side while pushing the axle thru from the left side. Can't find it!

My only 'shadetree' solutions are to put bike on center stand, and use a couple of scissor jacks to adjust the height on front, then rear, so things are aligned. There must be a better way! It's very tedious.

Bob

For the rear wheelGo to the hardware store and get a mild steel bolt (I think its 12mm) chop it off about 2" long so you just have a threaded stud. Screw this in to hold the wheel while you start the other 3 wheel bolts, makes mounting the wheel easy.

Semi-success. I was able to remove the retainer pin by simply taking a countersink punch and tapping steadily (not really hard,) and finally, out it came. I tapped from the outer side of the caliper toward the bike side. What popped out was the pin with what looks almost like a small compression fitting with a slit cut in it. I think that's the part that holds the pin in place. I believe that's the piece Huzo called an 'annular type expanding spring.' BTW, thanks Huzo. That was a good tip.

Problem now is getting the new pads back in the caliper, and staying in place so I can get the pin thru them.

I know my comments on this issue make me sound like an amateur. I'm not. Just can't figure out why I'm having these difficulties with such simple problems.

Bob

If that's the same setu my cali uses, and it looks it, other then on the other side of the wheel.. I fiddeled a bit with it. Make sure the non pin side of the caliper is nice and clean, and pay attention levering in the little nub on the pads into the little slide clips on that side.. They tend to pop out... but just keep a eye on them as you slide the pin in. Ive done thousands of brake jobs over the years, and still faught a bit... once you get it, you will see its pretty easy... just diferent. I think it took me 5 trys.

Took her out for nearly 100 miles this afternoon. New tires are great, hope they don't wear funny.

The old gal is (as previously posted) getting a bit top heavy for me, and a real load to push out of the garage. But man, was she nice on US 422 heading for home running between 65 - 80mph. Big old sport touring lounge chair!

Bob

PS - Huzo, I cleaned the gunk off the pin by chucking it into a 1/4 inch drill, spinning it while holding a 3M abrasive pad around it. Got a bit warm!

I went back in time, to a set of Pilot Road 2, on front and rear. As I posted elsewhere on WG, I kept going back to PR3s (3 sets,) but went to a set of PR4s when 3's went away. They did not work out for me. Probably a personal thing. Did not feel like trying the PR5s.

I went back in time, to a set of Pilot Road 2, on front and rear. As I posted elsewhere on WG, I kept going back to PR3s (3 sets,) but went to a set of PR4s when 3's went away. They did not work out for me. Probably a personal thing. Did not feel like trying the PR5s.

The 4ís were good, but not as good as 3ís or 5ís.Did you see the sots of mine @ 16,000 ?