Not all Japanese restaurants are created equal, and not all can be paragons of excellence. But if you find a place where the chopsticks are hand-carved and a delight to hold, it signals good things to come from your meal. Attention to detail matters.

Craft and design aficionados will find much to love about Higashi-Yama in Ebisu, with its exquisite tableware, metalware, and ceramics. The food is also well-matched to its setting: elegant and contemporary, relying heavily on local and regional produce, tasting as good as it looks.

Like most washoku (Japanese cuisine) restaurants, the menu is seasonal and changes frequently. The second half of June, for instance, saw a gorgeous broiled gratin of summer corn and sea bream at the restaurant.

Set menus begin at JPY4500 per head, which gives you a light meal; the mid-range JPY6000 menu is a more complete dinner, including dessert. Alternatively, ordering a la carte is possible.

Higashi-Yama isn't the cheapest place in town, but it’s entirely worth splashing out a little for a special occasion. Make sure you book ahead, especially at dinnertime.

Japan Travel Guides

Disclosure: TrulyTokyo.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com and amazon.co.uk.