A Pan-cooked Bird That Tastes Like Fried

April 12, 2000|By Mark Bittman, New York Times News Service.

Sauteed chicken should have the same attributes as fried chicken: meat that is moist and flavorful inside and crisp outside. Getting it that way is easy, but it took me nearly 30 years of experimentation to discover that the best method is also the simplest one. Only three rules apply.

First, you need a good chicken. This is not the time for a cotton-textured, mass-produced bird. I prefer kosher chicken, but that may be because for me the paradigm of pan-cooked chicken is my maternal grandmother's, and she kept a kosher kitchen.

Second, you need a large non-stick skillet, or two smaller ones, because there is no oil used to saute and because crowding the chicken pieces keeps them from browning. The skillet should be large enough so that the pieces barely touch each other; they should certainly not overlap.

Finally, you have to pay attention. If the heat is too high, the chicken pieces will scorch and dry out; if it is too low, they will get soggy and never brown. The best heat level is medium, but some adjustments may be needed to guarantee even browning.

This recipe has only two or three crucial ingredients, but it is easy to vary. I like to add garlic and paprika (again, my grandmother's influence), but a mild chili powder, like ancho, would work as well with the garlic. Other seasonings, in small amounts, are also good, like curry powder, five-spice powder or a mixture of cinnamon and allspice with a pinch of ground cloves. To finish, all you need is a squeeze of lemon.

SAUTEED CHICKEN

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 23 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

1 chicken, 2-3 pounds, cut into serving pieces

Salt, freshly ground pepper

1/2 teaspoon paprika or mild chili powder

1 teaspoon minced garlic

Lemon wedges, optional

1. Season chicken with salt and pepper to taste. Arrange chicken skin-side down in non-stick skillet large enough to accommodate all the pieces without crowding; use two skillets if necessary. Cook over medium heat, shifting pieces if necessary, until evenly browned on one side and crisp-looking, 5 minutes. Turn chicken. Season with paprika. Adjust heat as needed to prevent burning. Cook until nearly done, about 10 minutes.