Egg Creams Over Earthquakes

“I don’t understand why people keep messing with the egg cream. It started around 2008 when Chocolate Bar in the East Village aimed to ‘reinvigorate’ the supposedly dying delicacy with flavors like hazelnut and cappuccino … the egg cream has endured many humiliations at the hands of so-called artisans. This spring, we heard about the egg cream ‘course’ at swank 11 Madison Park: ‘made with malted milk syrup and vanilla beans, Battenkill Creamery milk and seltzer from one of the last suppliers in the city that refills old-school bottles. In a four-star flourish, a splash of olive oil is added with a silver oil can from Tiffany & Company.’” —Jeremiah’s Vanishing New York on protecting the sacred, old-school, don’t-mess-with-success egg cream.