Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Attachments: Added items

Related Questions:

do you have a full frost pattern (coating) on freezer coils or see a ice ball, if ice ball Leak in system or bad valve in compressor. not worth fixing. go on (repair clinic .com).
you have a dampener and a fan to let the cold air go to all the areas check to make sure fan is running push in light switch in freezer and llisten for fan could be problem or no power to fan from main control board.
Dampener is flapper door that lets cold air from freezer go into ref. section
are your doors sealed, gaskets, frapper between door on ref section closing.
also your return air ducts need to be clear of ice, is your ice maker working that means that it is below 10 degees and repairable.

The condenser fan is very quiet so you may not hear it . remove the lower rear back panel and check whether the compressor and or fan is running . Also check if the back wall of the freezer has frost on it or if the evaporator fan in the freezer is running.

Did the "tech" try and jump start the compressor? Testing for shorts won't tell you much, especially if there are no shorts. You say its clicking and the fan is not working at all, which fan are you referring? The one near the compressor? Furthermore, since you didnt describe what refrigerator and freezer temperature problems you were experiencing, I can only assume nothing was cold anywhere. However, since the compressor was very hot, and not starting, eliminates the control board being at fault, as it is energizing the compressor circuit. Additionally, since your "tech", and I do use the term loosely, but since he either didn't know how to jump start the compressor, or doesn't have the equipment to do so, you will either have to get a better refrigerator repairman to test the compressor, or bite the bullet, buy both the compressor relay and overload, and hope those were the problem and not the compressor itself.

Hi, they have changed lots of parts, were they defected, did they tested parts for faults or they just change parts, because it's available, there's always a reason why a certain part, go bad. so far you change most of parts in ref. check refrigerant (gas, freon) pressure, check compressor, for faulty suction and high side valve, it's possible your compressor loosing efficiency. or say if compressor normally pump 50 psi. now it's pumping 40 psi. is the refrigeration cycle balance ? is there restriction in your ref. system? is compressor running long enough? plug on ref. let it run for 1hr, listen to compressor for any clicking sound, fans and everything else could be working, be compressor not, compressor could be short cycling (not working long enough) also check voltage in receptacle(outlet) with digital multi-tester, get accurate voltage reading, let me know, could also be a faulty circuit breaker in house (building) not your ref. let me know, system could have very slow refrigerant leak, you could have a very small (slow) gas leak, that's why your refrigerator get hot first, then your freezer, there's a condensate line (loop) that passes through, ref body, close to doors to prevent door gasket from freezing, after few years sometimes develope leaks, cause by rusting. it's very possible there could be small leak in your system. let me know what happened.good luck.

if the compressor is running your ref. should be getting cold. Their is a defrost timer but when it is in defrost the compressor shuts off. I think you do have a leak.any further question let me know.thanks,

First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.

Now, why is that cold air not getting over to the Ref side?1. The little door is not open.check your control setting. You should be able to feel air coming through the channel on the Ref side.

2. The fan in the freezer is not working.You can hear this fan running when you open the freezer.

3. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice which won't let the fan circulate the air over to the Ref side.This is a failure of the defrost system.

Check the compressor.
Unplug for 15-20 min. plug it back in and listen for the compressor to start. You will have to be behind the ref to listen and make sure you hear the compressor start and not just a fan running. If you hear a clicking noise then the compressor relay is bad.