Turtles, whales, and rays from your villa’s infinity pool

First impression

Staff

Food & drinks

Bed & bath

Our Review

Let's start with the basics: Where is it?Kokomo is in a set of islands in Fiji’s south, a rarefied stretch that isn't touristy. It was a highlight of my Fiji stay. To get there, I took a 45-minute boat ride from Kadavu, an undeveloped Fiji island known for its waterfalls, choirs, and endemic birds, including colorful kaka parrots and honeyeaters. The hotel owns its own seaplane and helicopter, which is a 45-minute flight from Nadi International. Helicopter takes one hour, seaplane 45 minutes. Rainy season is November to May.

How did it strike you on arrival?We flew in by seaplane manned by a barefoot pilot, and there was soulful singing on arrival and departure. (The island adjacent is known for its Pacific Gospel Choirs and many staffers are singers.) And the nature is outstanding! You can see turtles, parrot fish, whales, and rays from your villa’s infinity pool, steps from swimmable and thriving coral reef.

Nice. What’s the crowd like?Well-dressed Kiwis, Aussie celebs, chic empty nest Brits, laid-back American snorkelers, free-spirited beach worshipers, and nature-loving families. (Villas are spacious and each room has its own bathroom, so it’s ideal for outdoorsy families of four; staff are warm so babysitting is a breeze. Bonus: The resort only has 25 units so it never feels crowded.) An actual celebrity was staying there during my stay—the Aussie singer/star of Kinky Boots—and one night he sang impromptu a cappella for some of the guests.

The good stuff: Tell us about your room.If I could could stay in one place, it'd be Room 8, a one-bedroom villa with traditional thatched roofs. It's perfectly located on the eastern side of the island, close enough to walk to the restaurants and spa without a buggy, but still very private. The look? A tasteful and modern take on Pacific design. The resort was originally built as an Aman, but changed to an independent property (family owned by Australian property developers) before design plans were finalized; an Aman sense of discovery remains. There's lots of elegant stonework throughout, contemporary abstract oil paintings on canvases by the island’s resident artist in bright, poppy Pacific tones. High stone walls create privacy, and banana plants and hibiscus dot the private garden. Linens are textured cotton quilts, soft white sheets, and quality down pillows, on par with Four Seasons or Aman linens.

How about the little things, like minibar, or shower goodies. Any of that find its way into your suitcase?It's a standard minibar with Fiji water and Coke Zero. The free laundry service is pretty clutch, as are the chocolate chip cookies. Bath amenities were coconut based, but nothing special. The spa sells nicely packaged Aussie-based cosmetics and products like jet lag sprays.

Room service: Worth it?24/7 room service is included in rate. You can order sashimi, avocado toast, or a medium rare tomahawk chop steak with Bearnaise sauce at 3 a.m. The food across the board is good: steak, coral trout sashimi, Fijian beef, lobster kokoda (a welcome upgrade on the usual kokoda of marinated raw fish in coconut milk with chiles, onions, and tomatoes). Caroline the chef can cook you anything. Fresh juices are served in glass jars and the pastries are top notch, all made with local fruits.

Staff: If you could award one a trophy, who gets it, and why?Chef Caroline and a bartender experimenting with unusual Fiji and Pacific botanicals.

Anything stand out about other services and features? Whether it’s childcare, gyms, spas, even parking—whatever stuck with you.The gym comes with personal trainer. Free yoga every day in the morning and evening by a dedicated yoga instructor. There are tennis courts, a basketball court, kids' club, tween club, and a forthcoming Chef’s Table Experience on the helicopter pad. Beach shack Walker d’ Plank feels especially authentic and fun for a luxury hotel. It was designed by a resident artist and is set under pine trees and ferns on the clear water. We saw pilot whales and turtles while sitting there. Great Astrolabe Reef is just offshore; there’s an onsite biologist and a glass-bottom boat for exploring.

Bottom line.So many moments stood out: snorkeling with sharks at the Great Astrolabe reef. Checking out the on-island farm. Coral trout sashimi for breakfast. The craftsmanship of coconut fiber roof beams and thatch work. The departure experience, when the entire staff assembles to sing (with gusto) traditional farewell Fiji songs—it’s very emotional.