After studying the pictures carefully, everything makes sense to me except for one question! What is the hex wrench on the actual sensor itself for, just to hold it at a certain angle while you torque the threaded bushing into the end of the fuel rail???? Otherwise, it seems to serve no other purpose....

[edit] What happened to my old servo-valve pressure relief unit? Well since it's internal, I haven't been able to disassemble it to find out exactly. BUT something has happened to the rod or the guide, or the ball valve / seat, binding or sticking that is causing the pressure required to dislodge the ball from the seat to be WAAAY higher than it should be. -- as in 10-11 thousand psi at idle, rather than the normal 5k-ish. The FQS on the cp3 isn't able to compensate for this much difference.

[edit] I think we're still missing a set, though. Sorry if you're still working on it....

the two additional pictures & text!

This is a closer picture of the hydraulic piston / rod. It only needs to push the ball a small amount away from the seat to limit the pressure on the high end. Here you can see the limiter thing I referred to in past post, that establishes the limit of travel. I can 't measure it with what I have here (need go/no-go guage. don't have it here) But from looking at it, I swear it can't be more than 2mm of travel. Once this rod pushes the ball off the seat, the fuel travels around the rod, between it and the cap guide, past the valve, and into the low pressure discharge area.

Another pic of the same thing, showing more of the crush face. This is the old valve that was removed, so it shows the crush face that has been used.

Hmm, I hadn't considered the fact that the crows foot adds a little leverage to the equation. After much searching I found a few side cut 30mm sockets specific for the task, but they were all in Europe, some were in large kits, and none of them had prices I'm sure they would be too expensive to import anyhow. If we could find one inconus that might be reasonable, but carefully cutting one from a very deep 30mm might be worth a try. When I need one, I might give it a shot. I would be cutting it with a die grinder and dremel, so it would suck, and I'm not sure how successful I'd be?

the torque sleeve is a smaller diameter than the body it would have to go past, so a socket won't work.

What I was planning to do was take a piece of 1/4" x 2" x 16" steel bar stock, Heating it and bending it around a piece of 4" pipe, so the ends are parallel, and trimming any parallel access off. then one end would have a 30mm socket cut into it, and the other would be drilled at the same center axis, and a broken 1/2" to 3/8 stepdown drive welded there, so wrench torque would equal actual torque. It wouldn't have to be anything super hard since the most torque it would need to hold is 59 ft lbs.

Now, with this tool, all I have to do is measure the distance from the center of the square drive to the center of the valve axis. and do a bit of math.

(for example) Given, that a torque value in ft/lbs is lbs of force applied at 12" from the rotating axis, applied 90 degrees to movement, no matter the size of the torque wrench.

IF the distance from the center of the tool drive is (for example)2" you would add the 2" to the 12" that the wrench is designed for, and divide (12/14) as correction factor. And the torque value needed is 44 ft lbsThen you would multiply 44 x (12 / 14) = 37.7 ft lbs for the wrench setting. I would just round up to 38.

As much as I hated algebraic story problems 4 decades ago, they have been really freakin handy in life.

[quote="GordnadoCRD"]the torque sleeve is a smaller diameter than the body it would have to go past, so a socket won't work.

What I was planning to do was take a piece of 1/4" x 2" x 16" steel bar stock, Heating it and bending it around a piece of 4" pipe, so the ends are parallel, and trimming any parallel access off. then one end would have a 30mm socket cut into it, and the other would be drilled at the same center axis, and a broken 1/2" to 3/8 stepdown drive welded there, so wrench torque would equal actual torque. It wouldn't have to be anything super hard since the most torque it would need to hold is 59 ft lbs.

Now, with this tool, all I have to do is measure the distance from the center of the square drive to the center of the valve axis. and do a bit of math.

(for example) Given, that a torque value in ft/lbs is lbs of force applied at 12" from the rotating axis, applied 90 degrees to movement, no matter the size of the torque wrench.

IF the distance from the center of the tool drive is (fmy example)2" you would add the 2" to the 12" that the wrench is designed for, and divide (12/14) as correction factor. And the torque value needed is 44 ft lbsThen you would multiply 44 x (12 / 14) = 37.7 ft lbs for the wrench setting. I would just round up to 38.

As much as I hated algebraic story problems 4 decades ago, they have been really freakin handy in life.[/quote]

I think that tool is slotted such to be wider in the center and 30mm at the end, and be specific to this application, but either way, a $6 crows foot (plus shipping) and your fine math is much better! I'd like to see if the local Bosch place can get it just for kicks. Heck, what does the manual call for? I might have the tool in my factory set lol

Hmm, I hadn't considered the fact that the crows foot adds a little leverage to the equation. After much searching I found a few side cut 30mm sockets specific for the task, but they were all in Europe, some were in large kits, and none of them had prices I'm sure they would be too expensive to import anyhow. If we could find one inconus that might be reasonable, but carefully cutting one from a very deep 30mm might be worth a try. When I need one, I might give it a shot. I would be cutting it with a die grinder and dremel, so it would suck, and I'm not sure how successful I'd be?

No I checked with the local dealer and all he could do was order the same thing for a lot more. Stuff he had only went to 7/8", and costs way more. This tool will do the trick. If you look at the fuel rail pics, you will see there is a turned down section where it threads into. It's about 3/4" back, so when it's in position to be torqued you can actually get a true crow's foot wrench on. But a simple open ended wrench took it off with no stress or damage, so it should be fine to torque it.

I already ordered the one MM found. Was expecting it by tomorrow but I haven't gotten any tracking #.

Called them just a few minutes ago and they said they were out, and it was on order, but they moved mine to drop ship from the Mfg. Won't be here for a week.

ALSO Since curiousity and boredom make such a bad combination, I got a die grinder with a cutter wheel and disected the front crimpy cappy thingy by cutting the crimp sleeve to open the valve up. and found out I WAS WRONG in one aspect of the valve.

THERE IS A TAPERED SEAT INVOVED, BUT T[b]HERE IS NO BALL. I was misled by illustrations in the FSM. The function of other components is also somewhat different.[/b]I will show more of what I found once I get camera access again.