Table 9 by Nick and Scott

Heralded as one of Dubai’s few home-grown concepts, Table 9 by Nick and Scott sees two former protégées of Gordon Ramsay bring together a vision of modern British cooking. Amid the modern and global cooking references, there’s a notable emphasis on ingredients from the British Isles, re-imagined into interesting contexts. Think scallops with plum and seaweed, mackerel with radish and watercress and rustic cuts of European meats. Food is presented exceptionally well, in a clean and unfussy style. In some cases, the weight of anticipation from concept and appearance is not quite matched by the pleasure of eating; on our last visit technical errors marred some of the dishes. Service, however, is exemplary, with an easy line in well-practised and charming patter and a strong knowledge of the menu. While the setting is certainly upmarket, this particular vision of high-end dining, with its grey patterned carpets, is too dated for the fresh ideas dished up by these young chefs.Open Sun-Fri 6.30pm-11pm. Hilton Dubai Creek, Deira (04 227 1111).