I found a pair of CF3s, version 1 on shopgoodwill.com. When I hooked them up I found that one of the tweeters crackles at any dB level. I pulled the horn out and detached the driver but couldn’t tell anything from looking at it. The diaphragm looked good and I couldn’t see any damage to the cone, though it is really hard to see anything. Any thoughts? Any way to fix or replace it? This is my first foray into Klipsch and high quality audio so your help is appreciated

Hello to any & all,
My first post...
Can anyone assist me with some specs on the high frequency driver from a RSX speaker? Numbers: K-153NV / 1000520, #8028 0712.
I got a pair off ebay for my older RF-25 cabinets. Perfect fit (needed slightly longer screws however), my ears are very pleased, can't balk at the Ti!, ..i'm curious how the numbers compare to the K-130-DN, mainly in terms of intended crossover point and power rating.
Also, does anyone have any words of wisdom on a part number 1012311?? What would it have come out of etc??
Thank you in advance,
David in Tx

Hello Klipsch audio community, this is my first post here - actually I made an account specifically to ask about this topic, which has been mystifying me.
I pick up multimedia speakers at my local thrift stores quite frequently, and Klipsch ProMedia speakers are a common sight (people seem to get rid of them because the pots on the control pods go bad). Usually I end up with a large number of ProMedia satellites with an odd mixture of subs and control pods, so I mix and match until I end up with complete systems, which isn't very difficult.
I quickly noticed, however, that there seem to be a noticeable difference in tonality between some of the satellites - and the differences are often split between satellites from entire sets (for example, the 4 satellites I picked up from a ProMedia 4.1 set sounds noticeably brighter and louder than the satellites I found from an old ProMedia 2.1 set from the early 2000's).
I know that companies often do iterative updates to their products' internal components, and I wanted a way to be able to identify the different satellite revision(s) so I can match them properly when I put together systems. After finding absolutely no cosmetic differences in the satellites' exterior, I decided to open them up... and what I discovered was a bit, well, surprising.
In the photo attached below, you can see two satellites right next to each other. They look identical on the outside.
Opening the first satellite, one can see a circuit board to handle the crossover. It appears to contain a capacitor, a resistor, and an inductor, pretty standard affairs for a crossover circuitry.
Opening the second satellite, one finds that the entire circuit board to be missing. In its place is a single bipolar capacitor, manufactured by Bennic.
My guess is that the first satellite is in fact the older version, because the circuit board is screwed onto two plastic mounts that, in the second satellite, are still present but unused.
When I first started researching the topic, I came across an old discussion about the ProMedia 4.1, which was stated to have "improved crossover frequencies". Coincidentally, the first time I noticed the tonal differences in the satellites, it were ones from a ProMedia 4.1 system (containing the second version, with the single capacitor). I currently have 18 ProMedia satellite speakers on hand. I have opened up every single one, and found that 12 of them were of the second iteration, while only 6 were of the original configuration. So the "new" version has been around for a long while.
I am not an electrical engineer, but a quick read on how crossover circuits work showed that inductors act as low pass filters (becoming more reactive as frequency increases), while capacitors act as high pass filters. The fact that the inductor and its companion resistor are absent in the "new" revision of the satellites likely means that the full-range driver is receiving the full spectrum of audio signal (minus whatever LFE that's sent to the subwoofer by the filter in the amp module), including everything that's meant for the tweeter. This may explain why these satellites sound somewhat brighter (I am assuming the full-range driver can reproduce at least some of the treble frequencies), as well as louder (less components in the signal path, less resistance).
Now.. I know audio companies spend a lot of money on R&D, so I am not accusing Klipsch of cutting corners or anything like that. My main question is... which satellite version actually perform objectively better? I do not have any instruments to measure frequency responses, but may be someone can look into this?
And a question for Klipsch: What is the reason behind this internal change? Do the new satellites still perform up to THX specifications?

Anyone have any laying around they can part with? I will take either type(L-pad or transformer)for now.
Just need to knock down some JBL 2404H to see if they will work once levels are matched. Then I will go from there.
Thanks.

Hello Everyone: Just joined today because of a problem that i hope someone can help me with.1 Tweeter in my Klipsch LaScala is not working,i am the 2nd owner and i have have them about 10 years no problems until now.Is there any repair places to send it to to make sure it is the speaker itself,solder problems? Could it be the crossover? Need some help please.Not really an electrician,just love the sound when all is well..Thanks Mark

4 working k78 drivers. These are basically k77 drivers with 16 ohm impedance. These are two matched pairs. Seem to work as intended. $140 plus shipping. These do not weigh much and I would estimate something like $20

I am repairing a built in home stereo system that uses Frazier speakers in every room. Each speaker is a 12 x 12 x 16 cabinet with an 8" woofer and a 5 x 7 tweeter. The tweeters are the black bell type with alnico magnetics. The tweeters are blown in at least 2 of 12 tweeters, and there are at least a couple more.
Knowing that there is a lot of common driver parts between Klipsch and Frazier, I am posting my questions here and in the Frazier sites.
Checking the internet I cannot find any diaphragm replacement kits. Are there any available?
Next option is I have found some 5 X 7 Frazier replacement tweeter assemblies at a decent price, but the magnetic arrangement is different. Instead of the tall small diameter alnico style magnet under a plastic cup, it has a short large diameter magnetic and no cup. The tweeters are marked on the back with:
Frazier
F-3x7
N4850-F
114850-F
U.S.PAT.
3,898,393
Are these equivalent specs? And what are the differences?
Thanks in advance

Hello everybody, this is my first topic and I'm glad to partecipate at this forum. I'm owner of a fantastic pair of Heresy I (1976), with k-22 woofer, k55-V mid e k22. tweet.
To improve the acoustic of my room, I record the frequency response of a single speaker with a calibrated microphone (i use REW). What I see is an elevatate distorsion of 2nd order between 3000hz e 6000hz. You can see it the graph below. It is common in both the speaker. So I switch with another amplifier, but the problem persist. The measurement is near the speaker (70 cm), so i can exclude the ambience problem. In the listening I perceive marked sibilant. I think that is a problem of my speakers, but perhaps it is a common situation in Heresy I. Has anyone tried to measure the distorsion?
Second, if the problem is finite to my speakers, which is the cause?
In the capacitor of the crossover (It is a type D converted to Type E)?
In the gasket of the speaker?
I don't know. Can anyone help me?
Thank you in advance

Just got two brand new RP-260F along with a Anthem MRX520 amp. Received the Klipsch sub and center speaker a couple days ago. We hooked up just the sub and two towers and prepared to be blown away by incredible sound. I queued up Steely Dan and hit play. Ah....the music was horrible. No highs. Nothing from the tweeters. Checked and double checked all obvious things. Polarity, inputs, sound settings, nothing. Changed speaker wire gauge (16). Finally we unboxed the Klipsch center speaker and all frequencies were heard and it sounded incredible. How can this happen? Two brand new speakers and both tweeters are out? Does not seem possible. I'm hoping that although I am not new to home audio, I am overlooking something very simple with these speakers. If both tweeters are out I will have to consider returning the entire Klipsch set up and move on to another brand. On a side note, when unboxing the subwoofer there was a loud rattle in the cabinet. Once out of the box and bag and after a little shaking around, a corner support from inside the cabinet came sliding out of the front port of the sub. WTF? Glue is on the support piece but apparently it was not secured well enough since it has been bouncing around in the cabinet for lord knows how long. I'll send that back simply because the cabinet's integrity is compromised but the 260's? I need to understand what I can do different to test these tweeters. We've been looking forward to this audio upgrade in our home for months and this is so disappointing it makes the wife and I quite upset. Suggestions?

I'm using these speakers on my desk with SMSL A2 amp. I'm getting a hiss out of the tweeters that is a bit too loud for my taste, because it gets annoying during quiet night time. It does not get louder when I turn up the volume, it remains a steady low volume hiss that becomes unnoticeable when I increase music volume.The hiss is there when nothing is playing and when anything is playing. It's also there even when I disconnected any input signal. As soon as I turn on the amp, the hiss starts.
I've got conflicting advice about what could be causing this, so I decided to come here. Some said these speakers are very sensitive and make the amp's noise floor more noticeable, others said the amp is defective. I'm using 14 gauge oxygen free copper wire with banana plugs.
Anybody else getting hiss? What could be causing it?

Hi, I'm thinking of upgrading the tweeter diaphragms of my Herey II's.
I was thinnking of Bob Crites's tweeters, but unfortunately the shipping costs to the Netherlands are a bit much.
I found a more local place for me in the Netherlands, where they sell silk replacement tweeter diaphragms for the K-76- tweeter, but they also sell titanium diaphragms for the K-79-H tweeter. They are stated as both being 6 Ohm, the titanium is stated as being flat over 20Khz.
I was wondering if these tweeter diaphragms are interchangeable and so whether I can use the K-79 diaphragms in my Heresy II's K-76 tweeters.
Thanks in advance,
Laszlo

I'm replacing the diaphragms in my tweeters and noticed the wiring looked reversed on one of them. On one, I have a white wire and one with a red stripe. The other speaker, white and one with a black stripe. Is the striped wire positive or neg? One of them had to have been wrong. And help on this one?
Thanks!!!

I reworked my 1983 LaScala crossovers several years ago. Lasts month I upgraded my mid horns to Dave's Fastrac's. I am now looking at new tweeters. I am trying to decide between Crites CT120's or ALK Eliptrac DE 120's. Any suggestions or comments?
​
Thx

How or why I only have one of these is unknown - it's been that long!
Bought for a project that never happened.
I'm selling a pair of Cornwall cabs and Crites CW1526 woofers, this will help put you on the way to a set of Cornwalls if you are so inclined.
Bob has them on his site for $160/pair plus $13 shipping.
I offer the single one here for $75 SHIPPED.
I accept PayPal.
Thank you!
Chris

This HS Kid in W. Va has his own basement repair shop and cranks out the videos, lots of speaker repairs.
This is a diaphragm replacement on the K-77, something I see a lot of people talking about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s90esnzJ22s

What was the best tweeter of the:
-1950's?
-1960's?
Altec, JBL, University, Jensen, EV....in your experience, what was the absolute BEST tweeter in terms of clarity, accuracy, upper range extension, construction quality and reliability?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Best, Andy

These motor boards have come out of retirement. I built these 5 years ago with my 1st project and they have say lonely waiting for someone to bring to life... Daves tweeter seems as good a reason as and. Prob will try the Dayton DC380... Seems I forgot, I cut the opening for the woofer too small. Some things.
Justin