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<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">How did I join <a href="http://www.wine-allthetime.com/">Marissa Ross</a> as an evangelist for Gamay?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">&nbsp; </span>Like most people, when I started drinking wine, I really only knew of Beaujolais Nouveau, the first wine of the seasons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">&nbsp; </span>However, a few years ago, I heard the advice from the America’s Test Kitchen podcast to look into Beaujolais Village as a tidy, reasonably priced, everyday wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">&nbsp; </span>I picked up a bottle of the ever-present Louis Jadot Village, and I was hooked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">&nbsp; </span>Since then, I always have a case on hand and I’ve taken to scouring the liquor stores of the southeast for more labels.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/36042027053/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_8821"><img alt="IMG_8821" height="800" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4400/36042027053_01caf583fa_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />&nbsp;While I’ve had some great success finding Cru Beaujolais in Atlanta, Mississippi has proven to be a bit barren. In fact, besides nouveau and Louis Jadot Beaujolais Village, I found a single different label, Domaine Pral’s Beajolais.<o:p></o:p></div><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Found squirreled away in the corner of Colony Wine Market in Madison, this Domaine Pral is a Beaujolais AOC, a product of one of the 96 villages in AOC. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">And when we popped the cork, we were greeted by…yeast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">&nbsp; </span>Yes, there were the usual black cherry and raspberry notes but all were overshadowed by the smell of just proofed yeasted bread dough.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Hoping a little aeration into a decanter would help, I soldiered on and, for me, the wine did improve a bit, but not for Carley, my wife.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">&nbsp; </span>She gave her glass the old college try but eventually poured the remainder into my glass and went searching for something else.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">In a way, that sums up my feelings on this wine. I wanted to find a different Beaujolais label, I did, and I gave it a try, and once was enough.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">&nbsp; </span>Even though patience and air did let this Beaujolais grow into a decently palatable wine, it wasn’t worth the effort.<o:p></o:p></div>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2017/08/the-empty-glass-domaine-pral-beaujolais.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-535984703205804318Mon, 24 Feb 2014 02:52:00 +00002014-02-23T20:52:35.263-06:00catfishcomebackfried green tomatoesGumboMeridianMississippipeanut butterRestaurant ReviewsWeidmann's - Meridian<div class="MsoNormal">Just the other day, I received a notification that a comment had been posted to my last blog entry. Guessing that I had either been stripped of gainful employment or resigned myself to a diet, Mr. Anonymous wished me well. This isn’t the first time the inactivity of my blog has been questioned, but it did make me realize that it’s been an obscenely long time since my last post.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">&nbsp; </span>Does this mean the end of this little hobby of mine? Although five years is an exceedingly long life span for a food blog, I sincerely doubt that I’ll call it quits anytime soon. I can’t promise that I’ll return to the 200 posts in a year halcyon days of 2009, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">&nbsp;</span>but blog posts will be forthcoming starting with a little detour to Weidmann’s in Meridian.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">This story, like so many others, begins with a trip on I-20 East towards Atlanta. However, instead of the usual mulling over Tuscaloosa or Birmingham spots, an extra bit of last minute work at the office left me hitting the city limits of Meridian a few minutes after one and just in time for lunch. Rarely stopping for anything more than a bit of gas and a pit stop, I decided that this time was a good as any to stop into Weidmann’s.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">“I wish it was crunchy”, that was the first thought that entered my mind when I looked at the rather charming if a bit kitsch crock of peanut butter at the center of my table at Weidmann’s. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12735592185/player/b765d41d26" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Handmade by a local artist and bearing all of Weidmann’s relevant details, the crock contained a plastic cup of smooth and slightly salty peanut butter.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12736073894/player/c23c662024" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />A tradition that began with a butter shortage during the Second World War has become a Weidmann’s trademark and even with the lack of crunch, it’s a tradition I can support. <o:p></o:p></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">After starting with the peanut butter, it was on to another Weidmann’s tradition, the fried green tomatoes.<br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="300" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12735584945/player/b7d3ca52ba" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Despite looking a bit oily, these tomatoes were nicely breaded and were about as crispy as fried green tomatoes could be.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12736071394/player/f6643d68b5" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">With a firm texture, these March tomatoes weren’t too tart, just enough to keep things interesting.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12736072554/player/9bae1140d0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">The comeback dressing was a different story; sweet and creamy as expected, this condiment was crying out for a touch chili powder or black pepper to combat the sweetness. When combined with the tomatoes, I quickly realized that the unripe tomatoes had no need for the comeback; they were sweet enough on their own.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Hoping to get a taste for the Weidmann’s menu, I also ordered a cup of their house seafood, chicken, and sausage gumbo. Unfortunately, the gumbo arrived at the same time as the tomatoes. Aside from being an annoyance, the time the gumbo spent lingering may help explain its thickness.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="396" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12735749983/player/335382f3d7" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">True to its name, there were chunks of sausage, nicely briny shrimp, large pieces of okra, but, strangely, very little chicken.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12735755183/player/c4c9f0fa31" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Also absent was much of a roux flavor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">&nbsp; </span>Tasting more of an okra stew than the Louisiana gumbos I’ve come to know and love, this gumbo, while full of ingredients, was decent but lacking any real depth.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Before I had a chance to finish my gumbo, my catfish entrée arrived at my table. Pushing aside the bowl, I was curious to see Weidmann’s version of crabmeat Belvedere.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12736069594/player/9520766438" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Served with a side of butter beans and creole cabbage, this plate had a homey quality that may not win awards for aesthetics, but it certainly looked like a filling lunch.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12736068374/player/5826d8bb9a" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Starting with sides, the butter beans were big, creamy, and incredibly pale. Oddly colored they may have been, they would be a fine addition to any meat and three.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12735586005/player/c3b4e67757" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">The creole cabbage is something that needs to be on more menus. Tomato braised and with a definite chili pepper tail, their magic really came through when combined with the butter beans. Just those two made me wish I had ordered a vegetable plate.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">That’s enough gushing over vegetables; the point of the plate was the catfish and its crabmeat Belvedere.<br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12735751833/player/c418559946" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />Crispy on the edges, juicy, and delightfully flakey, this was a well-grilled filet of Mississippi catfish.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/12735585145/player/4664052a23" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />Regarding the toppings, it seemed the addition of both a light cream gravy and crabmeat Belvedere was too much for even this sturdy piece of catfish to handle.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Visiting a restaurant with as much as history as Weidmann’s arms me with a certain amount of hesitation. Will a place that claims to be Mississippi’s oldest restaurant still exist because of pure nostalgia from an aging clientele? Is the kitchen running on a reputation earned decades prior and has since been stripped of any meaning? I can say that Weidmann’s did not reinforce my suspicions even though things were a bit of a mixed bag. The timing issues I can somewhat attribute to the busy lunch hour although that’s a piss poor excuse. While the gumbo and comeback left me wanting, there were some things that set a hook that made me want to come back namely the well grilled fish and the superb vegetables. With an exceptionally large lunch menu that warrants further exploring, there may be an order of Weidmann’s shrimp and grits in my future travels or at the very least some peanut butter and crackers. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Weidmann’s Address &amp; Information</b><o:p></o:p></div><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:PixelsPerInch>96</o:PixelsPerInch> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> 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gte mso 10]><style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:Arial;} </style><![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--> <!--EndFragment--><br /><div class="MsoNormal">210 22nd Ave Meridian, MS 39301 // 601.581.5770 // <a href="http://www.weidmanns1870.com/">Weidmann’sWebsite</a> // <a href="http://www.weidmanns1870.com/our-menus/">Weidmann’s Menu</a> // <a href="http://www.weidmanns1870.com/reservations/">Weidmann’s Reservations</a><o:p></o:p></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/211/1538032/restaurant/Mississippi/Weidmanns-Meridian"><img alt="Weidmann's on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1538032/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2014/02/weidmanns-meridian.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-6466396200255850948Tue, 23 Jul 2013 02:53:00 +00002013-07-22T21:53:24.985-05:00Alabamabanchanbean sproutsBirminghamBulgogijapchaeKimcheekimchikoreanmanduRestaurant ReviewsSeoul - Birmingham<div class="MsoNormal">Kimchi, that polarizing combination of napa cabbage, gochujaru, ginger, garlic, gochujang, and fish sauce, though one of my current Korean favorites, was not always on my radar. While there may have been an odd mention of it here and there during trips to Houston, New York, or San Francisco, the cabbage based dish truly came into my world a little less than a decade ago when I was reading Jeffrey Steingarten’s excellent book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Man-Who-Ate-Everything/dp/0375702024/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374547592&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=the+man+who+ate+everything">“The Man WhoAte Everything”</a>. In his book, Steingarten aimed to broaden his already well cultured culinary horizons and began this quest by creating a list of food phobias. Second on the list was the aforementioned kimchi. Although I highly suggest reading the book on your own, I’ll spoil the surprise by saying that Steingarten came to love kimchi by means of exposure and repetition. On the other hand, I was, for the most part, rather ambivalent towards the national pickle of Korea. I’d give it a try, say that’s not bad, and move along, but the past few years of venturing into Korean restaurants across the south have given me a new appreciation for the dish which brings me to the balmy January morning in Birmingham when I decided to cross the threshold of Seoul Restaurant.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">I had hoped that when I walked inside Seoul that I would be hit with the smell of ashy charcoal, sizzling meat, and the sound of chopsticks clicking on bowls of banchan. Sadly, Seoul doesn’t offer Korean bbq, but at least there’s still bulgogi on the menu. But before the beef would arrive, an order of deep fried mandu would get the meal started.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9346127291/" title="IMG_5380 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5380" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7376/9346127291_bf6a187fa9.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Well fried, crispy, and not at all oily, these pork mandu were a fine beginning.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9346126879/" title="IMG_5382 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5382" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/9346126879_fc59461ed1.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Despite missing any kimchi or glass noodles, the simple filling of pork and greenery was still quite satisfying. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9346127101/" title="IMG_5381 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5381" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5336/9346127101_4360cfc5bb.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Missing kimchi aside, these were well fried dumplings that were balanced by the rice vinegar tartness of the dipping sauce.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">At this point, my table began to swell with bulgogi, japchae, and the full assortment of banchan.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9346126657/" title="IMG_5383 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5383" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7411/9346126657_dcb552610c.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">There may not be any grilling involved, but it had the look of a damn good substitution.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Dumplings done, the bulgogi was up next.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9346126379/" title="IMG_5384 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5384" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/9346126379_e7d264dfaf.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Served in a crackling hot cast iron plate, this serving of bulgogi was still faintly sizzling 10 minutes later.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9346126097/" title="IMG_5387 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5387" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5472/9346126097_6658bdf183.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Thinly sliced and slightly chewy, it was brimming with beef flavor that was only augmented by the addition of sesame seeds and sesame oil.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9348913648/" title="IMG_5389 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5389" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7419/9348913648_e37e3f5cc3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />&nbsp;Erring on the side of being a bit too sugary, it was still hard to leave this bulgogi alone.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The nuttiness of the sesame carried over to the sweet potato noodles but this time was mated with caramelized carrots, zucchini, mushrooms, bean sprouts, and a little more beef for good measure.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9348913280/" title="IMG_5390 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5390" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5467/9348913280_c786996590.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Juicy, nutty, beefy, this was homestyle japchae.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9346125403/" title="IMG_5392 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5392" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3697/9346125403_92c8bbdccb.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Much like the bulgogi, these noodles were inundated with sauce and each piece of vermicelli was literally dripping with flavor.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Of course, I can’t forget the banchan.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9348912950/" title="IMG_5395 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5395" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/9348912950_167e3a89cb.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />It’s the usual array of side dishes with a few standouts<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9346124973/" title="IMG_5398 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5398" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3766/9346124973_963e8ccd7c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />&nbsp;The crunch of bean sprouts with the heat of chili paste never gets old.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9346125163/" title="IMG_5396 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5396" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5497/9346125163_849a70de35.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />I don’t often see kombu as the focus of the dish, but the combination of sweet and spicy with the kelp worked quite well here.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9348915486/" title="IMG_5399 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5399" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5339/9348915486_8a5dbb5319.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />What would a visit to a Korean restaurant be without kimchi? Seoul’s kimchi was lightly fermented and a bit watery at first with just a hint of a chili pepper powder on the tail.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Despite numerous complaints about speed of service on Urbanspoon and Yelp, after my meal I had none of my own. Even though time and appetite forced me to leave the stews, seafood, and rice bowls section completely untouched, I still feel that the bulgogi, japchae, and mandu left quite an impression. While Seoul is far from pushing the boundaries of Korean cuisine, there’s a menu of familiar favorites that are prepared simply and well. Sometimes that and a little kimchi are all you need.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Seoul Restaurant Address &amp; Information</b></div><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Seoul+Restaurant,+Green+Springs+Highway,+Birmingham,+AL&amp;hl=en&amp;ll=33.463364,-86.82126&amp;spn=0.011653,0.022724&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=seoul,+birmingham&amp;hq=Seoul+Restaurant,&amp;hnear=Green+Springs+Hwy,+Birmingham,+Alabama&amp;t=m&amp;z=16">430 Green Springs Highway #8, Birmingham, AL 35209</a> // 205.945.8007<br /><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/45/490984/restaurant/Homewood/Seoul-Birmingham"><img alt="Seoul on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/490984/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/07/seoul-birmingham.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-7194306825710282990Mon, 08 Jul 2013 03:54:00 +00002013-07-07T22:54:04.325-05:00AlabamaBirminghamcornbreadcrepinetteflounderFrank Stittgritspork cheeksquailrabbitrabbit liverRestaurant Reviewstasting menuHighlands Bar and Grill - Birmingham<div class="MsoNormal">Having spent the earlier part of the day enjoying a few snapper throats at the Bright Star and a little time at a bookstore, it was soon time for my next stop at a Birmingham institution, Frank Stitt’s original restaurant, the Highlands Bar and Grill.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Opened in 1982, Highlands Bar and Grill is Stitt’s combination of southern flavors and ingredients with his background in French cuisine. But for me, Highlands is more than a stalwart of the Birmingham restaurant scene, it’s been a goal that has been taunting me for years. Much like <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/03/hot-and-hot-fish-club-birmingham.html">Hot and Hot FishClub</a>, another renowned Birmingham restaurant, Highlands has been just out of my reach, largely due to its hours of operation. Try as I might, dinner in Birmingham is a rare proposition. Now, with this opportunity at hand, I planned to take full advantage of my first meal at Highlands Bar and Grill.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Friday night in late January and Highlands was bustling with activity as every table was filled to capacity. Despite having made reservations earlier in the week, I had time to enjoy a cocktail at the bar before my table was ready. Once seated, I was stuck with the typical dilemma of far too many attractive choices and general indecisiveness. Jokingly complaining to my waitress that they were in dire need of a tasting menu, she quickly scampered off to the kitchen. Returning just moments later, she was happy to inform me that a tasting menu could be made from any five dishes of my choosing.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">However, before any of my choices had a chance to arrive at the table, it was time for a little taste of cornbread.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9237374968/" title="IMG_5347 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5347" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3749/9237374968_e28e1d5a5a.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Appearing in the bottom left of the picture, this small piece of cornbread struck an ideal balance between salty and savory. Of course, it never hurts when cornbread is made sublime by the addition of a little butter.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Diving headfirst into the southern heart of the menu, things started with the stone ground baked grits.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9232602177/" title="IMG_5351 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5351" height="375" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2816/9232602177_dc2f99b814.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Exceedingly creamy, this grit cake seemed to defy gravity. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9232602611/" title="IMG_5349 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5349" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5467/9232602611_8b1755213c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />If this dish confirms anything, it’s that country ham and grits are a salty match made in heaven.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9235382526/" title="IMG_5350 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5350" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5444/9235382526_8b3c2f8958.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Rounding out the dish were mushrooms and parmesan which while well paired on their own, I wasn’t quite sure what the mushrooms brought to the dish. However the only thing this dish truly needed was a good shot of black pepper, once applied this was a truly precocious start to the meal. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Apalachicola gigged flounder was the next dish in the tasting menu and it came with a Provençal sauce with roasted fennel, Niçoise olive, fingerling potatoes, and marjoram.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9235382342/" title="IMG_5353 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5353" height="375" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2853/9235382342_0af495a5b9.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Crispy on the edges, moist in the middle, the flounder paired well with the bright and well rounded sauce.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9232601789/" title="IMG_5354 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5354" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3821/9232601789_1c5aa50f4c.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The Provençal sauce was deceptively simple with a clean tomato flavor that finished with a bite of olive tartness.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Third in my tasting menu was the rabbit -&nbsp; two ways.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9235382608/" title="IMG_5357 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5357" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3668/9235382608_df33e0d2a6.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">First of the duo was a Tuscan kale stuffed loin and while the kale added a slightly bitter and green dimension to the loin, I was surprised at the grainy texture.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9232602053/" title="IMG_5360 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5360" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3676/9232602053_3b0534edde.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />In stark contrast, the braised leg was achingly tender and sublime with the sherry reduction. At this point, I noticed that Highlands preferred their vegetables to have a toothsome texture. I won’t say they were undercooked but I like my potatoes to not crunch when I bite them.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Proving the allure of pork wrapped in caul fat, the pork crépinette and grilled rabbit liver was the fourth dish on my menu.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9232601715/" title="IMG_5364 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5364" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/9232601715_86ab95ed80.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">With plenty of give from the caul fat, the highlight of the crépinette was the combination of the pork and vinegar flavors of the honey crisp apples and frisee salad.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9235382258/" title="IMG_5365 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5365" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3815/9235382258_dd0d4442e1.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;In contrast, the grilled liver began with a crunch of finishing salt and fruit but quickly soured with the addition of overdone liver.&nbsp; Letting my waitress know about the state of the liver, I was expecting an apology at the most but I wasn’t prepared for a new piece of liver to be brought from the kitchen.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9232601677/" title="IMG_5367 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5367" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3715/9232601677_49ecacc608.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Skewered with a sprig of rosemary, this liver still had the big salty introduction but in lieu of the apples, the woody flavor of rosemary and citrus highlights of fresh peppercorns took its place.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">For the last course, I decided to switch gears and try a little fowl with the stuffed South Carolina quail.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9232601875/" title="IMG_5372 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5372" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7374/9232601875_66b47ffa95.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Sticking to bold flavors, this quail was mated with a cornbread and foie gras stuffing, green lentils, and a sorghum gastrique.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9235382174/" title="IMG_5371 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5371" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3711/9235382174_6af4256843.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">With the lentils baring a stronger resemblance to a piece of chalk than any edible legume, I was relying on the cornbread and foie stuffing to support the quail. Unfortunately, the stuffing completely dominated the bird with a mealy sweetness and none of the rich foie gras flavor I was expecting. This quail was far and away the weakest part of the meal.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">At this point, I expected the meal to be finished and an after dinner drink would be that all that stood between me and my drive back to the hotel, but that was not the case. Chalk it up to either voicing my complaints or having a productive dialogue with my server, a complimentary order of the braised pork cheeks and potato dumplings was brought to my table.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9232602347/" title="IMG_5377 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5377" height="375" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2841/9232602347_ed27a6c371.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Like many of the vegetables in this meal, including the hedgehog and yellow foot mushrooms in this dish, the pork wasn’t fall apart tender but the dense flavor of the cheeks was ample reward.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9235381928/" title="IMG_5376 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5376" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5442/9235381928_9118177522.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />When this dish was first brought, I was expecting the potato dumplings to create a starchy mess but each flavor in this dish was distinguishable and played off the others quite well.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9232601843/" title="IMG_5373 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5373" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/9232601843_f0cde15399.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">One particularly nice touch was how each potato dumpling was pan seared, the contrast of dense dumpling with crisp seared exterior was delightful.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">If I took away anything from this long awaited meal at Highland Bar and Grill, it’s that while the flavors and the subsequent combinations are supremely important, the addition of excellent service can make a good meal a great one. Even taking the liver and quail into account, the dishes at Highlands were prime examples of Stitt and his kitchens taking full advantage of the bounty of the South. I can see why Highlands Bar and Grill has been open for more than 30 years.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Highlands Bar and Grill Address &amp; Information</b></div><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Highlands+Bar+%26+Grill,+11th+Avenue+South,+Birmingham,+AL&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=highlands+bar&amp;hq=Highlands+Bar+%26+Grill,&amp;hnear=11th+Ave+S,+Birmingham,+Alabama&amp;t=m&amp;z=14">2011 11th Avenue Birmingham, AL 35205 </a>// 205.939.1400 // <a href="http://www.highlandsbarandgrill.com/">Highlands Bar and Grill Website</a> // <a href="http://www.highlandsbarandgrill.com/menus.php">Highlands Bar and Grill Menu</a><br /><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/45/490474/restaurant/Southside/Highlands-Bar-Grill-Birmingham"><img alt="Highlands Bar &amp; Grill on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/490474/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/07/highlands-bar-and-grill-birmingham.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-7835440415402524281Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:56:00 +00002013-06-10T21:56:11.890-05:00100 Best Southern FoodsAlabamaBessemerBirminghamcorn breadcornbreaddinerGreekGumboJohn T. Edgered snapperRestaurant ReviewsBright Star - Bessemer<div class="MsoNormal">Despite my frequent visits to the city, it’s rare that I get the opportunity to spend more than a few hours in the magic city known as Birmingham, Alabama. Late January proved to be on of those precious times as I was in town for a two day stint at a conference.&nbsp; Flushed with time to spare, I decided that I should pay a visit to some Birmingham institutions, starting with the only Alabama recipient of the James Beard “America’s Classic” award, the Bright Star in Bessemer.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">I’ll be quite frank, I was blissfully unaware of the Bright Star’s national accolades until I began researching this piece. My knowledge of this Alabama institution stems from John T. Edge and his book “Southern Belly” as well as his <a href="http://gardenandgun.com/article/100-southern-foods">100 Southern Foods list</a> he penned for Garden and Gun Magazine. In the southern foods list, Edge tells the virtue of The Bright Star’s snapper throats. Now I’ve spent my fair share of time in Greek diners in the Southeast from comeback and crackers at the Mayflower in Jackson to the temptation of a gyro meat and tzaziki omelette at the White House in Atlanta but that was the first time I heard the idea of fried snapper throats. Knowing the succulent textures of a well cooked yellow tail throat with hamachi kama, I was interested to see how an oft discarded piece of the fish would take to a little deep frying.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">But before getting to the raison d’etre of this lunch, it was time for a gumbo interlude and The Bright Star does a fair job with this Louisiana specialty.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9012964472/" title="IMG_5336 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5336" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7314/9012964472_553fa925cd.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Hot and thick, this gumbo was brimming with tomoatoes and okra not to mention a chili pepper tail to finish each bite.&nbsp; </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9011777693/" title="IMG_5337 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5337" height="375" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2851/9011777693_543caa747b.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">While there was a substantial amount of shredded chicken in this cup of gumbo, the time spent at a simmer left its mark on the white meat.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">When it came to the snapper throats, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. Would it be an entire throat, dipped in batter and fried to a hearty crisp? Would it be chopped bones with tiny nuggets of meat? </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9011777437/" title="IMG_5339 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5339" height="375" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2873/9011777437_61ced368a4.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The snapper throats were nothing of the sort. With nary a bone in sight, these snapper throats were remarkably easy to eat.&nbsp; For each “throat” a nugget of sweet and incredibly juicy meat was wrapped in a thick but surprisingly crispy batter. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9012963718/" title="IMG_5340 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5340" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8407/9012963718_6189362efb.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Beautifully paired with a squeeze of lemon, salt and pepper, this was a unique cut of gulf fish prepared remarkably well. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9011777035/" title="IMG_5341 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5341" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3793/9011777035_50154f9cf7.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">After eating, there was a sizeable pool of grease left on the plate, but it was a necessary evil like the thick batter. It may have been a bit clumpy and unwieldy but the succulent fish inside was worth it.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The rest of the meal was much of your standard southern fare, butter beans, black eyed peas, etc, nothing particularly remarkable apart from the cornbread. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/9011776763/" title="IMG_5345 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5345" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3817/9011776763_45b3f386fc.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Tiny, crusty and crisp on the edges, and a bit salty, it was crumbly and sublime when paired with the vegetables.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Initially I was skeptical of the Bright Star’s age and status. It seems that with many storied and established restaurants, the kitchen is fueled by memories and tradition rather than the current quality of their food. Thankfully, The Bright Star escapes that trend and offers a unique, well crafted dish in a setting with charm and atmosphere to spare. In my mind, their award and mentions in John T’s writing are well deserved; I just hope that The Bright Star keeps earning that James Beard award.<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=9041844699195170850" name="_GoBack"></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Bright Star Address &amp; Information</b></div>304 19<sup>th</sup> Street North, Bessemer, AL 35020 // 205.426.1861 // <a href="http://thebrightstar.com/">Bright Star Website</a> // <a href="http://thebrightstar.com/?page_id=727">Bright Star Menu</a><br /><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/45/490104/restaurant/Birmingham/Bright-Star-Bessemer"><img alt="Bright Star on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/490104/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/06/bright-star-bessemer.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-643098430859858218Mon, 03 Jun 2013 03:28:00 +00002013-06-02T22:28:03.939-05:00AtlantaDeliFrench FriesJewishmatzo ballmustardPastramiRestaurant ReviewsryeThe General Muir - Atlanta<div class="MsoNormal">It’s been a few years since my last post on a deli and in that time I’ve been pacifying myself with half hearted Sysco sourced Reubens and the occasional slice of pepperless, insipid pastrami. Recently, my pining for the true deli experience was &nbsp;worsened by a shipment of sublime bagels, blintzes, pastrami, brisket, and spreads from my friend Merry and her family’s Florida deli. Fortunately, there have been signs of promise in the Deep South, namely the opening of The General Muir in the Druid Hills neighborhood of Atlanta. With promises of glistening matzo ball soup, homemade bagels, and pastrami poutine, it didn’t take much convincing from Jennifer for me to make the drive from Brookhaven to The General Muir.<br /><!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br /><!--[endif]--></div><div class="MsoNormal">Typically late March is full of pleasant, sunny skies and the not so distant promise of blistering hot summers, but this March was an exception. With flurries filling the sky, it was still the weather for scarves and overcoats not to mention a steaming bowl of matzo ball soup. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8926589840/" title="IMG_5421 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5421" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3833/8926589840_40301a8316.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Often times I’ll find that matzo ball soups are either a single matzo ball floating alone in a bowl of broth or a matzo ball lost in a sea of chunky vegetables and dry shredded breast meat, The General Muir aims for a comfortable middle ground.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8925975101/" title="IMG_5423 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5423" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3668/8925975101_4fe932e906.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">By itself the broth is thin but the glistening globules of fat give a delightful lip smacking texture. Adding interest and body is a medley of celery, onion, carrot, and dill, the result is a soup that is nicely seasoned and a bit vegetal.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8926589608/" title="IMG_5422 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5422" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7343/8926589608_602f0536da.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">As for the matzo ball, this was a airy and fluffy specimen and far from the heavy as a stone examples that some delis offer.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8926588214/" title="IMG_5424 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5424" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7447/8926588214_d717c87c7f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Perfect for a cold, light in texture, and well suited to the broth, this matzo ball soup didn’t feel too substantial but it offered plenty of comfort for the chilly spring day. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With pastrami on rye on the way, the side of fries arrived first.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8925973849/" title="IMG_5425 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5425" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5462/8925973849_466b4dec8c.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Sadly, the pastrami poutine would have to wait for another day but this order of fries gave an inkling of my next visit to The General Muir.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8926587342/" title="IMG_5426 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5426" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8264/8926587342_aac695bc6e.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Grains of salt aside, there were a few crispy ends on these fries and a fair amount of textural contrast but I couldn’t help but wonder if they were hearty enough to hold gravy, cheese, and pastrami?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">So just how does the featured pastrami stack up?<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8925972947/" title="IMG_5428 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5428" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5456/8925972947_bd4ed460eb.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">From the beginning, this is sandwich simplicity: meat, mustard, and rye bread.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8926586254/" title="IMG_5432 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5432" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/8926586254_0ffa5ee926.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />While the pastrami doesn’t look too heavily peppered, each bite begins with a salty beefiness that gives way to a definitive peppercorn punch.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8926590646/" title="IMG_5434 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5434" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3754/8926590646_526afb05b4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />If there is a weakness to this sandwich, the rye is a bit listless compared to my favorite hearty rye breads of Zingerman’s Deli in Ann Arbor but it makes an excellent vehicle for grainy mustard and the exceedingly tender, fatty, and bristling with salinity pastrami. On the whole, this is a fine example of the breed and I can only imagine how it works on top of poutine.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Maybe after my next trip to Atlanta I can attest to the quality of The General Muir’s breakfast, pastrami poutine, or if the burger that chef Todd Gingsberg popularized at Bocado survived the trip. However, based on this first look at The General Muir, I’m pretty sure that Goldberg’s is no longer my go to deli in Atlanta.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>The General Muir Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=The+General+Muir,+Avenue+Place,+Atlanta,+GA&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=the+gene&amp;hq=The+General+Muir,+Avenue+Place,&amp;hnear=Atlanta,+Fulton,+Georgia&amp;t=m&amp;z=12">1540 Avenue Pl B-230, Atlanta, GA</a> // 678.927.9131 // <a href="http://www.thegeneralmuir.com/">TheGeneral Muir Website</a> // <a href="http://www.thegeneralmuir.com/menu">The General Muir Menu</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/9/1702031/restaurant/Druid-Hills-Emory/The-General-Muir-Atlanta"><img alt="The General Muir on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1702031/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/06/the-general-muir-atlanta.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-7765984458707067790Thu, 09 May 2013 04:02:00 +00002013-05-08T23:02:26.427-05:00dessertGreen teaJacksonLuis BrunoMississippiRestaurant ReviewsriceSom TumThaiThai Foodwonton soupwontonsBruno's Adobo - Thai Night - Jackson<div class="MsoNormal">Last Monday, I was on the prowl for something interesting for lunch and despite Jackson’s growth in culinary diversity in the past few years, interesting is not always readily available. &nbsp;A busy work schedule added the difficulty of needing to stay near downtown so I turned to Facebook to see what Luis Bruno’s Adobo had for a lunch special. What was initially elation at the sight of a pad thai special turned into the crashing disappointment of arriving at Adobo to find the special was sold out. But there was a silver lining to this somewhat banal little tale, Luis, with the help of Su Kennedy, was planning a special Thai Night. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">For those unfamiliar with Luis’ background in the Jackson culinary world, the man seems to be constantly on the move. From his eponymous restaurant in the French Quarter on Lakeland, Bruno moved to the position of personal chef to Governor Barbour to head chef for the Jackson Hilton to chef at the Museum of Art and now his restaurant on Roach Street. That little jaunt through history finished, let’s take a look at the meal for which I convinced Stephen to cheat on his successful Paleo diet. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The first part of this four course meal was the appetizers portion and it came with four choices: crispy sesame balls, kra thung thong (chicken curry and potato cups), sweet sticky rice with coconut shrimp, or roti. Rarely seen in Jackson, I went with the sweet sticky rice.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8721383749/" title="IMG_5503 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5503" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7409/8721383749_c86b7cd01b.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">It’s certainly a departure from your average white rice.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8721383369/" title="IMG_5506 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5506" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/8721383369_d1d050e4fc.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">All coconut and sugar, it was hard to discern the shrimp in this cup.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8721383547/" title="IMG_5505 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5505" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/8721383547_0ea563c2a4.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Like the rice in this foil cup, this black rice was served cold but kaffir lime leaves dominated the flavors in this serving. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Stephen was kind enough to let me take a few pictures and bites of his appetizer choice.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8722502884/" title="IMG_5508 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5508" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/8722502884_ea7e73d4bf.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">This was a well rounded curry flavor to this chicken curry but like my rice, it arrived at the table quite cold.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The second course was a choice of soup or salad and for both Stephen and me, the Thai wonton soup beat out the salad kheg.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8722502452/" title="IMG_5511 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5511" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7439/8722502452_6896470ccb.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Frankly I would be elated if this became a regular feature on the Adobo menu. Even without the Hoisin bbq pork and wonton, this broth was delightfully rich, silky, and imbued with a dense chicken flavor accented with hoisin sweetness. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8721382963/" title="IMG_5509 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5509" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/8721382963_ae1057e412.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Aside from the broth, the wontons were large and packed with ground pork while the hoisin pork was an extra meaty bonus.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With the entrée course, we could choose between khoa mok kai (rice biryani), hor mok (salmon), or khoa mun som tum (green papaya salad). Since this was a cheat night, Stephen went for the gusto and chose the khoa mok kai.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8721382607/" title="IMG_5514 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5514" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7311/8721382607_91eae33bee.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Saffron jasmine rice, chicken with five spice, turmeric, fried shallots, and raisins made for heady mix of flavors. While I couldn’t taste much five spice on the chicken, it was juicy and well cooked and paired beautifully with the sweetness of the jasmine rice. A sprinkling of the sweet chili and fish sauce condiment added just the right chili heat and salinity.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">As good as Stephen’s biryani was, I think I came out ahead by choosing the som tum.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8721382193/" title="IMG_5515 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5515" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/8721382193_628b7cb1e1.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Bruno’s version had shredded green papaya, carrots, tomato, dried shrimp, lime juice, fish sauce, palm sugar, and thai chilies with a side of coconut rice.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8721381921/" title="IMG_5516 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5516" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/8721381921_f6a32c29e2.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Each bite of this salad was a balance of salty, sour, sweet, and spiciness with a hearty vegetal crunch for good measure. This was not a dish for those who dislike fish sauce but for me, the combination of green papaya, fish sauce, and chilies was sublime.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Although I was hoping for another portion of som tum, the next course was a green tea custard layered on a chiffon cake with sweet honey crème anglaise.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8722501360/" title="IMG_5518 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5518" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7390/8722501360_7debe89704.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The best way I can think to describe this cake was lustrous and silky. Luis was happy to point out this cake had been cooked with a bain marie and it had the texture to prove it.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8721384037/" title="IMG_5521 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5521" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/8721384037_e5f337fe67.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">As good as the green tea flavor of the custard cake was, everyone was captivated by the lokk chupe. These treats were made from marzipan flavor bean paste and they were , clichéd as it sounds, almost too pretty to eat.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Despite a bit of a slipup with the first course, Luis Bruno and Su Kennedy were firing on all cylinders for their special Thai night. As a parting gift, there was even the assurance that a few of these dishes will make it onto the regular Adobo menu. I suppose I’ll wait to see if that comes to fruition before I write a full review of Adobo but in the meantime, I’ll try not to miss any more of Luis Bruno’s special nights at Adobo.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Bruno’s Adobo Address &amp; Information<o:p></o:p></b></div><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=adobo,+jackson+ms&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;hq=adobo,&amp;hnear=Jackson,+Hinds,+Mississippi&amp;t=m&amp;z=16">127 South Roach Street, Jackson, MS 39201</a> // <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Adobo.ChefLuisBruno">Bruno’s AdoboFacebook</a> // <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=481146058586646&amp;set=pb.430912796943306.-2207520000.1368071802.&amp;type=3&amp;src=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash4%2F326760_481146058586646_432978188_o.jpg&amp;smallsrc=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash3%2F581025_481146058586646_432978188_n.jpg&amp;size=1224%2C1584">Bruno’s Adobo Menu</a><br /><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/176/1703142/restaurant/Adobo-Jackson"><img alt="Adobo on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1703142/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/05/brunos-adobo-thai-night-jackson.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-1992152617918430469Mon, 29 Apr 2013 02:47:00 +00002013-04-28T21:47:32.570-05:00AtlantacurryfishFried ChickenIndianporkRestaurant ReviewsvindalooCardamom Hill - Atlanta<div class="MsoNormal">Despite its bounty of spices, regional variety, and cross cultural interpretations, Indian food or the more readily available Anglicized version is rarely my first choice for a meal. Although an episode of Top Gear will occasionally put me in the mood for a chicken curry with plenty of Glaswegian gravy, I tend to stay farther east for my Asian cuisines. However, this is no denying the allure of a well fried piece of chicken and it is fried chicken that brought me to Cardamom Hill in the first few days of 2013. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">As I understand the story, Chef Asha Gomez began the Spice Route Supper Club in 2010 which led to acclaim for her Kerala fried chicken at The Atlanta Food and Wine Festival and ultimately the opening of Cardamom Hill in early 2012. (For more in depth background stories, <a href="http://blogs.ajc.com/food-and-more/2012/03/01/cardamom-hill-restaurant-review-atlanta/">Kessler</a>, <a href="http://www.atlantamagazine.com/restaurantreviews/story.aspx?ID=1692999">Lauterbach</a>, and <a href="http://www.foodiebuddha.com/2012/01/07/cardamom-hill-atlanta-review/">Foodie Buddha</a> are fine sources). But before focusing on the influence of coconut oil on Cardamom Hill’s most popular dish, there was the matter of pork vindaloo and bhajia.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">First, the bhajia, a sweet potato and onion fritter with tamarind sauce and a fruit salad.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8669842629/" title="IMG_5320 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5320" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8259/8669842629_57c75c0928.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Not quite the loose bundle of fried rings onion bhaji that I was expecting, these bhajia dense, a bit doughy, and packed with onion flavor.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8669842589/" title="IMG_5322 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5322" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8669842589_1f47040dfa.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Complimented by the tart tamarind dipping sauce, the onion and sweet potato were well balanced.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">When I do make it an Indian restaurant, vindaloo curry is one of my top choices but this was my first time seeing pork as the feature ingredient.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8669842413/" title="IMG_5323 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5323" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8669842413_8fed269ed8.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Taking a bite of this vinegar laced pork and appam, I quickly realized this was unlike any vindaloo I had ever encountered.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8670945238/" title="IMG_5324 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5324" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8259/8670945238_323fc67a47.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Each piece of pork was exceedingly tender and carried a complex vinegar flavor with a chili laced tail that lingered but didn’t overwhelm.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8670945348/" title="IMG_5325 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5325" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8670945348_d66566bcb5.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">As for the appam, the edges were divinely thin and crunchy and the sweetness of the rice-coconut crepe meshed well with the vindaloo.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Appetizers done, the entrees began with the star of the show, the Kerala-style fried chicken.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8670945330/" title="IMG_5330 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5330" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8670945330_e5d650f1ac.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Beneath the thick and delightfully crunchy skin was a silky and moist chicken that was packed with a host of spices and flavors.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8670945396/" title="IMG_5329 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5329" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8670945396_385f3f9ec3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />There was a definite heat to the chicken’s spice but nothing that clouded the other flavors, but what I did find surprising was how similar the taste of the skin was to the bhajia from earlier in the meal.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Described as the spiciest entrée on the menu, the spicy fish curry was, per our waiter, a golden pomme frite simmered in curry flavored with kodampulli.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8670945208/" title="IMG_5327 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5327" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8266/8670945208_2917548423.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">According to the menu, kodampulli is a Kerala ingredient that is also known as Malabar smoked tamarind; there was plenty of slightly sour tamarind flavor in this curry.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8669842503/" title="IMG_5332 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5332" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8399/8669842503_21d7cb84c8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />The trickiest part of this entrée was the mix your own approach, but one awkward pour later, I was treated to a pleasant combination of tamarind sourness and budding chili heat.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8669842387/" title="IMG_5333 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5333" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8399/8669842387_dfebfbdc70.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">One highlight was the vegetal crunch of the rice and vegetable thoran, but I did find the fish edging towards overcooked.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">While the spicy fish curry may have been the hottest entrée on the menu, the hottest dish was by far the spicy green beans.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8670945446/" title="IMG_5334 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5334" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8404/8670945446_f23a678849.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Besides a toothsome texture, these green beans were joined by a caramelized onion sweetness that gave way to a genuine heat that had me draining my water glass.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Far from being an authority on Karalan cuisine, I can’t attest to Chef Gomez and Cardamom Hill’s authenticity but I could well wax poetic on the bounty of spice and flavor combinations that I encountered during this meal. However, more to the point, Cardamom Hill is miles from your average strip mall house of curry and is worth a meal if only to try their fried chicken and the pork vindaloo.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Cardamom Hill Address &amp; Information</b></div><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Cardamom+Hill,+Northside+Drive+Northwest,+Atlanta,+GA&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=cardamom&amp;hq=Cardamom+Hill,&amp;hnear=Northside+Dr+NW,+Atlanta,+Georgia&amp;t=m&amp;z=13">1700 Northside Drive, Atlanta, GA 30318</a> // 404-549-7012 // <a href="http://cardamomhill.net/">Cardamom Hill Website</a> // <a href="http://cardamomhill.net/menu/">Cardamom Hill Menu</a> // <a href="http://cardamomhill.net/reservations/">Cardamom Hill Reservations</a><br /> <a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/9/1635622/restaurant/Westside/Cardamom-Hill-Atlanta"><img alt="Cardamom Hill on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1635622/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/04/cardamom-hill-atlanta.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-3781681443024102452Mon, 15 Apr 2013 02:50:00 +00002013-04-14T21:50:28.551-05:00AlabamaBirminghamchipsMexicanporkquesoRestaurant ReviewsShort RibstacosEl Barrio - Birmingham<div class="MsoNormal">If there was one thing I brought back from the wedding in Lexington, aside from a greater appreciation for Kentucky’s fine spirit, it was a recommendation for a new Birmingham lunch spot. By some curious twist of fate, one of the first people I met at the cocktail hour was a newly minted doctor who now calls Birmingham home. After whole heartedly agreeing that Frank Stitt did not have a bad restaurant in his lineup, we got down to the brass tacks of where else in Birmingham was worth a visit. Her first suggestion was El Barrio, a new Mexican restaurant with lines out the door. Fortunately, it was little more than a month later, while driving from Atlanta to Jackson for the holidays, that I had a chance to try El Barrio for lunch. It was time to see if Martha Mae’s recommendations were worth their salt.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Though it may well be far from authentic to any regional Mexican cuisine, there is no escaping the allure of chips and queso or, in this case, queso fundido with roasted peppers and chorizo.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8650563526/" title="IMG_5266 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5266" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8121/8650563526_0d23c4aabb.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Per the description, this queso fundido included tequila, goat cheese, and chipotle, but what I found was a thin and watery dip that had the flavors of cheese for a foundation but not much else.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8649463185/" title="IMG_5267 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5267" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8392/8649463185_f5ec03251f.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">There were a few precious pieces of chorizo bobbing in the dip but hardly enough to justify the extra cost.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8650563696/" title="IMG_5264 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5264" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8391/8650563696_0627853a52.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />For dipping, the tortilla chips were crispy but lacking even a dusting of salt.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Wanting to try at least one dish from the taco section of the menu, the al pastor taco fit the bill nicely.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8650563218/" title="IMG_5270 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5270" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8650563218_23e96435f3.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Exceedingly tender, the pork was dominated by caramelized pineapple.&nbsp; </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8649463111/" title="IMG_5269 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5269" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8121/8649463111_f59fa6bdd4.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">While all the flavors were augmented by a squeeze of fresh lime, this was a fair taco that left me wanting more from the chili-marinated pork.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Being mid December in the South, there was a break in the summer weather and a little winter chill was gripping the region. Knowing that braised dishes are always good in fighting against the cold, one order of beef “barbacoa” was soon at my table.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8649462883/" title="IMG_5271 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5271" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8544/8649462883_67ff65b39f.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Although listed as boneless short ribs, chorizo, white beans, ancho, and citrus on the menu, there were a few more items at work in this bowl.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8649462759/" title="IMG_5272 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5272" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8122/8649462759_cf795db84d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">One thing that stuck out with this “barbacoa” was the contrast in texture. The boneless short ribs fell apart at the slightest touch while the greens provided a vegetal crunch to each bite. <br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8650563808/" title="IMG_5274 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5274" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8389/8650563808_5c87d97ba8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Aside from chalky and undercooked beans, there was the issue of the braising liquid. Even though it was densely flavored, this dish seemed to be verging on a beef and vegetable soup. A piece of the jalapeno cornbread would have been an apt solution but that was left to the pork chili verde.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Three dishes down and I was having second thoughts about Martha Mae’s lunch recommendation. While there were some well crafted flavors at work with the short ribs of the barbacoa, the taco al postor failed to make an impression, the queso fundido was a watery mess, and it’s hard to forgive the chalky texture of poorly cooked white beans.&nbsp; By and large, I left El Barrio unimpressed and wishing that I had driven the few extra blocks to Stitt’s Chez Fon Fon. Maybe Martha Mae’s next recommendation will strike gold. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>El Barrio Address &amp; Information</b></div><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=El+Barrio+Restaurante+Y+Bar,+2nd+Avenue+North,+Birmingham,+AL&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=el+barrio,+bir&amp;hq=El+Barrio+Restaurante+Y+Bar,&amp;hnear=2nd+Ave+N,+Birmingham,+Alabama&amp;t=m&amp;z=14">2211 Second Avenue North, Birmingham, Al 35203</a> // 205.868.3737 // <a href="http://elbarriobirmingham.com/">El Barrio Website</a> // <a href="http://elbarriobirmingham.com/menus/">El Barrio Menu</a><br /><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/45/1641255/restaurant/Downtown/El-Barrio-Birmingham"><img alt="El Barrio on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1641255/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/04/el-barrio-birmingham.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-9097813133661030016Mon, 18 Mar 2013 03:29:00 +00002013-03-17T22:29:45.478-05:00BBQbbq saucebbq spaghettibolognabrisketchopped porkdry rubMemphispork ribsRestaurant ReviewsribsTennesseeBar-B-Q Shop - Memphis<br /><div class="MsoNormal">It was mid-November and there was just a taste of winter in the air when I left Nashville. Travelling southwards towards Jackson, I pulled into Memphis with bbq on my mind. As fate seemed to dictate, I was once again out of luck with Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous by virtue of their refusal to open for Monday lunch. Hoping to console myself with equally well-smoked pork, I pulled up the directions for Bar-B-Q Shop on Madison Avenue.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Why did I choose the Bar-B-Q Shop? The long answer, as you might expect, is that the name makes a consistent appearance in any Memphis bbq discussion. The short answer is that on my restaurant list for Memphis, Bar-B-Q Shop was the first one I hadn’t already tried. That out of the way, I took advantage of store front street parking and stepped into the burgundy colored rooms of the Bar-B-Q Shop.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Once my order had been placed, the first thing out the door was a bbq beef bologna sandwich.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8567748940/" title="IMG_1476 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1476" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8390/8567748940_42e9c288d6.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">As numerous bloggers have commented before me, the lightly browned Texas toast is a unique feature of Bar-B-Q Shop.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8567748096/" title="IMG_1479 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1479" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8383/8567748096_b4fb953577.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Between the Texas toast slices was a hearty slice of crispy edged bologna with plenty of cole slaw and bbq sauce for toppings.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8567748500/" title="IMG_1477 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1477" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8517/8567748500_b958b00b14.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The best feature of this bologna sandwich, by far, was the combination of textures; from the silky emulsified interior of the bologna to the pepper laced and chunky crunch of the cole slaw, the sandwich was brought full circle with the mustard and vinegar twang of bbq sauce on top.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">I was barely two bites into the first half of my bologna sandwich when the star of the lunch hour arrived, the Bar-B-Q Shop special.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8566649229/" title="IMG_1485 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1485" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8566649229_7b3cfcba4b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />A small mountain of meat, the half wet, half dry portion of ribs in the middle was flanked by chopped pork on one side and brisket on the other. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8566648723/" title="IMG_1486 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1486" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8517/8566648723_d5efae735a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Starting with the chopped pork, this was a welcome portion of well smoked and still juicy chopped shoulder. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8567746354/" title="IMG_1487 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1487" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8508/8567746354_ec19a9076a.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">There was the odd dry piece scattered in the pile, but drizzle of bbq sauce on top covered any faults and complimented the smoky richness of the pork quite well.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The brisket was a separate story. It’s been a few months since I ordered this plate and I can’t quite remember why I chose bbq brisket as one of the plate components. I can only say that it seemed like a good idea at the time.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8567745964/" title="IMG_1490 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1490" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8228/8567745964_a9c08f7546.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Finely chopped, overdone, and with a dry texture, this brisket was poor on its own but it went downhill when mixed with the bbq sauce. Eerily reminiscent of ketchup, this bbq sauce and brisket combination is one best left untouched.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With the chopped pork and brisket tried, it was time to move along to the ribs, starting with the wet ribs.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8566649657/" title="IMG_1482 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1482" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8373/8566649657_5755d6beb1.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Two ribs dry rub and two ribs wet with sauce, just enough to get a taste of the two styles.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8566647657/" title="IMG_1492 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1492" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8566647657_10bd2144b4.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">It took a nice tug before the ribs pulled apart but the effort was rewarded with a well-formed smoke ring. Texture wise these ribs were a little overdone but still had a silkiness that made me wish I had gone for a rack of ribs instead of the combo platter. When it came to the sauce, the thick tomato sauce seemed to do more to hamper the ribs’ flavor than help them.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8567745138/" title="IMG_1495 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1495" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8567745138_df1772c716.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Finished with the two wet ribs, the dry ribs, from a little farther down the rack, were a bit more fall of the bone tender.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8567744740/" title="IMG_1497 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1497" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8376/8567744740_6e6735729f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Another dose of smokiness and that hard earned smoke ring worked beautifully with the salty and sweet dry rub. Pleasantly reminiscent of the bottom of a bag of bbq chips, the captivating flavors of the dry rub made it clear which part of this four component platter reigned supreme.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Hoping to take full advantage of my relatively rare trips to Memphis, there was one last part of this meal, an order of bbq spaghetti.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8567744266/" title="IMG_1498 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1498" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8088/8567744266_e0e38fccea.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">After trying it several times before, I’ve never been completely sold on the idea of bbq spaghetti and this example didn’t make a very good pitch.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8567749454/" title="IMG_1500 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1500" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8092/8567749454_d7758c0d1b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Essentially a bowl of completely overcooked noodles, a fair amount of chopped pork, some sauce, and enough grease to start a fire, this was an oily and generally unpleasant end to the meal. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With my leftovers packed in Styrofoam and my bill paid, I had at least three hours ahead of me, plenty of time to reflect on what Bar-B-Shop had to offer. However, before I walked out the door, I knew one thing was far certain, the brisket and bbq spaghetti were the glaring exceptions to an otherwise immensely satisfying bbq lunch. With the brisket, these bad experiences happen far too often but I keep hoping I’ll find quality bbq brisket outside of Texas. As for the spaghetti, this is the third version I’ve tried and I still can’t see the appeal to a bowl of limp noodles, grease, and a few pork pieces for consolation. Outside of those two letdowns, Bar-B-Shop puts out a fine bologna sandwich and dry rub ribs that are worth a second visit if not a third as well. While I may not get to Memphis terribly often, until the planets align and I’m there when Rendezvous is open, Bar-B-Q Shop will be a serious contender for a rib-centric bbq lunch.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Bar-B-Q Shop Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Bar-B-Q+Shop+Restaurant,+Madison+Avenue,+Memphis,+TN&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=bar-b-q+sho&amp;hq=bar-bq+shop+restaurant&amp;hnear=Madison+Ave,+Memphis,+Tennessee&amp;t=m&amp;z=16">1782 Madison Ave. Memphis, TN 38104</a> // 901.272.1277 // <a href="http://www.dancingpigs.com/">Bar-B-Q Shop Website</a> // <a href="https://www.facebook.com/TheBarBQShop">Bar-B-Q Shop Facebook</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/50/540122/restaurant/Midtown/Bar-B-Q-Shop-Memphis"><img alt="Bar-B-Q Shop on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/540122/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/03/bar-b-q-shop-memphis.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-194995989871525859Tue, 12 Mar 2013 04:30:00 +00002013-03-11T23:30:02.198-05:00Cooking at HomegoulashHungarianSoupstewThe Soup Peddler's Slow and Difficult SoupsCooking the Book - The Soup Peddler's Slow and Difficult Soups - Hungarian Goulash<br /><div class="MsoNormal">For reasons quite unknown to me, I have a great affinity for cooking seasonal foods very much out of season. The glowing July sun can be roasting every one of us poor Mississippians and I will inevitably decide that it’s a good night for stick to your ribs beef stew or that everyone needs to break a sweat leaning over the steaming nabe for a shabu shabu feast. I like to imagine that it’s wishful thinking and by preparing wintery foods that the heat will soon disappear and a bone chilling wind will takes its place. Fortunately, when it comes to summer foods in winter my good sense typically prevails as there are few things as insipid as a winter tomato. However, with February drawing to a close and one last good week of tweedy weather in the forecast, I decided that it was time to cook seasonally for a change and began looking for soups and stews.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Although my bookshelves are beginning to groan under the weight of my cookbook collection, I don’t have many books that are dedicated to soups. While there are soup recipes dotting many tables of contents, I haven’t had that much success in finding truly satisfactory soup cookbooks. David Ansel’s <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Soup-Peddlers-Slow-Difficult-Soups/dp/1580086519/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1363062421&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=slow+and+difficult+soups">The Soup Peddler’s Slow &amp; Difficult Soups</a></i> is a potential exception. After finding the title in an old Chowhound thread, I bought a copy and have enjoyed pretty favorable responses to his recipe for Chao Tom but for this weekend, I skipped the shrimp and fish sauce and went straight for the Hungarian Goulash.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">While combing the pantry and spice drawers for the necessary ingredients, I couldn’t remember ever eating goulash, or at the very least one with a distinct caraway seed flavor. Mulling that over, it didn’t take long to prepare the mise-en-place and soon I was ready to begin.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8550928932/" title="IMG_1837 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1837" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8379/8550928932_b8d8cc7af2.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">-1 ½ pounds chuck cut into 1 inch cubes (Ansel calls for stew meat but I try to stay away from mystery meat packages)</div><div class="MsoNormal">-1/4 cup ap flour</div><div class="MsoNormal">-3 tbs vegetable oil</div><div class="MsoNormal">-3 tbs sweet paprika </div><div class="MsoNormal">-2 onions sliced lengthwise into quarter moons</div><div class="MsoNormal">-3 tsp dried marjoram</div><div class="MsoNormal">-8 cups water</div><div class="MsoNormal">-6 oz can tomato paste</div><div class="MsoNormal">-3 potatoes diced</div><div class="MsoNormal">-1 ½ tsp caraway seed</div><div class="MsoNormal">-salt</div><div class="MsoNormal">-egg noodles for serving</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Fortunate for timing and unfortunate for pictures, I took Ansel’s advice and used a pressure cooker for this recipe. That aside, it’s a fairly straightforward recipe.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">1. Coat the beef in the flour, heat the oil over medium-high heat and sauté the beef for roughly 10 minutes</div><div class="MsoNormal">2. Scrape the fond to ensure that it doesn’t burn and then sprinkle the paprika over the meat. Sauté the meat and paprika for roughly five minutes and be sure to add extra oil if the meat begins to stick.</div><div class="MsoNormal">3. Add the onions, two teaspoons of marjoram, stir and add water to cover.</div><div class="MsoNormal">4. Stir in the tomato paste. I found this more difficult than it should have been. My advice is to fill a small bowl with the goulash liquid, add the tomato paste, and stir until dissolved. Without that step, I spent far too long making sure the tomato paste was incorporated and not forming a clump at the bottom of the pot.</div><div class="MsoNormal">5. At this point you can either bring things to a simmer, cover and simmer for an hour or do what I did and put the pressure cooker lid on, bring to pressure and have a drink for the next 20-25 minutes.</div><div class="MsoNormal">6. Release the pressure completely, remove the lid, add the potatoes, remaining marjoram, caraway and the rest of the water. Bring everything to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are easily pierced with a sharp knife.</div><div class="MsoNormal">7. Season to taste with salt, simmer and serve over egg noodles.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Just how did this first batch of goulash turn out?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8549830157/" title="IMG_1856 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1856" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8385/8549830157_cbc32bd9e2.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The answer is a little spicier than I expected. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8549830517/" title="IMG_1858 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1858" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8371/8549830517_9ec597649f.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Scrounging through my spices, I found that I didn’t have enough sweet paprika to cover the recipe requirements. Not wanting to miss the chili flavor, I used Spanish smoked to fill out the three tablespoons. That decision made a very forward flavor that went straight to my nose. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Although I enjoyed the tender beef, paprika spice, and the unmistakable flavor of caraway, I was surprised at the watery consistency of the stew. While I would have preferred a thicker result, it was still a peppery and meaty remedy for the February cold. As for Ansel’s book, the stories of his Austin neighborhood alone make the book worth buying but I’m not 100% satisfied with his recipes so far. However with only goulash and chao tom under my belt, I still have more than 30 slow and difficult recipes to go. I’ll need to try a few more before this can become my go to soup book</div>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/03/cooking-book-soup-peddlers-slow-and.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-8381249060733878561Wed, 06 Mar 2013 04:17:00 +00002013-03-05T22:17:15.947-06:00bean curdbi bim bapchar suichar sui baocream cheeseeelgochujangkoreanNashvillepeking duckRestaurant Reviewsspicy tunaspring rollSushiTennesseewontonsPM - Nashville<br /><div class="MsoNormal">Nighttime in Nashville and I was craving something salty. Not the saltiness of a paper-thin slice of well cured prosciutto and not the coarse salinity of a glistening pretzel; I was the mood for the flavor of soy sauce. Sadly, I’m still finding my bearings as far as Nashville Asian cuisines are concerned so when I had arrived in town with time to kill, I decided to see what was near the Gulch. Looking through a few apps, I was buoyed to see a Korean restaurant only a few hundred yards away. Unfortunately, despite the hours listed online, Manna was not open that Sunday. It wasn’t until a few hours later, when my accommodations for the night were secure, that I decided to see what an Arnold Myint restaurant, PM, had to offer.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">It’s been years since I last set foot into a Chinese buffet restaurant but I still have vivid memories of the crab rangoons and how I always made an effort to avoid them. That in mind, I decided that a lump crab wonton sounded much more appealing than the greasy buffet staple.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8532088935/" title="IMG_5245 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5245" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8238/8532088935_87df50c7fc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Even with the thick, eggroll wrapper these wontons were crispy and not at all greasy.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8532088865/" title="IMG_5249 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5249" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8373/8532088865_172bc1d671.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Inside the mixture of crab and cream cheese was astounding, mainly for the fact that I could see and taste the crab. While still far from my favorite in American Chinese cuisine, this was one of the best crab and cream cheese wontons I’ve ever encountered.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Even though it was the cheapest option in the shared plate section of the PM menu, I was disappointed to see just one char sui bao inside the steamer tray.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8533199352/" title="IMG_5248 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5248" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8511/8533199352_3c47efb98d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">One big pork bun is a little hard to share as well.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8533199136/" title="IMG_5252 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5252" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8250/8533199136_d68f138101.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Inside the thick and doughy bun was a fair amount of five spice fragrant and relatively lean bbq pork. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Hoping to continue with the well fried texture of the wontons, an order of Peking duck spring rolls was next.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8533199384/" title="IMG_5247 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5247" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8090/8533199384_a86569919f.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Fresh from the fryer, these spring rolls were layer after layer of crispy wrapper.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8533199144/" title="IMG_5253 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5253" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8533199144_36a02d8ccd.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Beneath the crunch was a welcome medley of carrots, cabbage, glass noodles, and a fair amount of roast duck.&nbsp; Much like the crab wontons, this was a well cooked and nicely seasoned version of the buffet spring rolls from my youth. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Unfortunately what good will had been fostered by the small plates was dashed to bits by the arrival of the sushi.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8532088821/" title="IMG_5256 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5256" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8524/8532088821_5285d990ce.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />With the crunchy shrimp roll, what would have been a decent filling of shrimp and tempura crisps was completely overshadowed by a wrapping of gummy and frankly terrible sushi rice.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8533199170/" title="IMG_5255 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5255" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8533199170_20434075b7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />It didn’t matter how much mayo and chili sauce was piled onto this spicy tuna roll, insipid tuna and bad rice ruled the day.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With a maki roll, there is at least the chance that subpar rice can hide behind an abundance of fillings and toppings but there’s no real room to hide with nigiri.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8533199150/" title="IMG_5260 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5260" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8098/8533199150_20e069865e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />In the case of the eel and bean curd, things were doomed from the start.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Despite leaving the sushi mostly untouched, things at PM did not end on a dour note. Harking back to my disappointment at Manna being closed, I decided to console myself with the seafood bi bim bop.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8533199202/" title="IMG_5259 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5259" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8532/8533199202_d9bb33594b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />In addition to the usual assortment of soy bean sprouts, kimchi, and fried egg, there was a sizeable amount of well cooked mussels, shrimp, and squid.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8533199318/" title="IMG_5258 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5258" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8226/8533199318_c4db3b2086.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />It took a little compromising but we even managed to share this sizeable rice bowl.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8533199426/" title="IMG_5262 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5262" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8514/8533199426_a143f80887.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Everything mixed, it was just a matter of enjoying the pungent kimchee, seafood, and rice. I did ask for a little more gochujang but that only drew a blank face from our waitress. Instead of the sweet chili paste, I was brought a bottle of sriracha, not a bad substitute but not what I was really hoping for.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Having arrived at PM in search of soy sauce based salinity, I found solace in a well sorted bi bim bop. Along the way, there were a few satisfying if a bit homely shared plates that rounded out the dining experience. While the less said about the bottom of the barrel sushi the better, it serves as an example of where you should and where you should not eat sushi. With something as ingredient and technique driven as sushi, it should be the focus of the restaurant, not just a page to round out the menu. In the end, if I’m craving gochujang and cream cheese wontons the next time I’m in Nashville, I’ll have to keep PM in mind, but the search for good Nashville sushi will continue.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>PM Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=PM,+Belmont+Boulevard,+Nashville,+TN&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=pm+nashv&amp;hq=PM,&amp;hnear=Belmont+Blvd,+Nashville,+Tennessee&amp;t=m&amp;z=14">2017 Belmont Blvd. Nashville, TN 37212</a> // 615.297.2070 // <a href="http://www.pmnashville.com/">PMWebsite</a> // <a href="http://www.pmnashville.com/images/PM_2011_winter_menu.pdf">PM Menu</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/511418/restaurant/Belmont-Vanderbilt/PM-Nashville"><img alt="PM on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/511418/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/03/pm-nashville.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-3199006467880671287Tue, 26 Feb 2013 03:37:00 +00002013-02-25T21:37:53.834-06:00bacon cheeseburgersbockwurstcheeseburgersFrench FrieshamburgersNashvilleRestaurant ReviewssauerkrautSausageTennesseewurstPharmacy Burger - Nashville<br /><div class="MsoNormal">The day after a wedding is always a little hazy, but this time things were a little different. Where most weddings will have an ample supply of food, good times, and booze, this Kentucky affair also featured a bourbon tasting bar. It was a brilliant and dangerous idea whose effects were somewhat mitigated by a complimentary breakfast buffet the next morning. With hash browns calming my bourbon soaked stomach, it was just a matter of packing my bags and making the drive to Nashville. Unfortunately, a lazy start to the day had me arriving in town in the middle of a Sunday afternoon. Since my free bed wouldn’t be available for three or four hours, I decided the best thing to do was find a late lunch and that is what lead me to Pharmacy Burger.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">After navigating the pitfalls of parking, I decided to see how well Pharmacy Burger makes a wurst, bockwurst to be exact.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8505273839/" title="IMG_5228 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5228" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8093/8505273839_8c5e1340b5.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Described as combination of beef, pork, and dark lager, this sausage was served on a small mountain of sauerkraut.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8505273635/" title="IMG_5231 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5231" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8374/8505273635_26f0aa5a35.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">On its own this wurst was smoky, meaty, but with a grainy and simply overcooked texture.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8506382474/" title="IMG_5230 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5230" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8234/8506382474_e1c2d8e656.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Combined with the sweet sauerkraut and mustard the sausage had its merits but eaten alone the bockwurst showed potential but disappointing execution.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With the bockwurst came a pretty substantial side of fries.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8505273753/" title="IMG_5233 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5233" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8505273753_f08028b6c5.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">A few crispy ends and a generous dose of salt made for a nice side of French fries.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">From house made sausages to organic Tennessee beef, it was time for a cheeseburger.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8506382438/" title="IMG_5236 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5236" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8506382438_f262da1dc8.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Looking a bit compacted, the first thing that stood out was the Provence roll made especially for Pharmacy Burger.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8506382268/" title="IMG_5239 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5239" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8237/8506382268_2df304b36e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Reminiscent of an English muffin, the bun was pleasantly sweet and in excellent proportion to the patty.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8505273695/" title="IMG_5237 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5237" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8380/8505273695_9abd0a283c.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Ignoring the icy tomato slice, I was surprised at the combined richness and oiliness of the garlic aioli, cheddar, and the buttered bun. The bacon was surprisingly crisp and even keeled, especially in comparison to the rest of the toppings.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8506382228/" title="IMG_5241 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5241" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8516/8506382228_de8e3c5f85.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">At the heart of this cheeseburger was well cooked, medium rare patty, quite a feat for its size.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8505273983/" title="IMG_5242 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5242" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8505273983_ef87e34daf.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />While I did miss the seared crust of a pan fried burger, what struck me was there wasn’t much beefy flavor or at least not enough to stand up to the toppings. However when all the components were taken together, it was a suitable cheeseburger.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Skipping the milkshakes and malts for a double dose of savory, I had a hard time figuring why there was such a fuss over the burgers and sausages of Pharmacy Burger. The bockwurst had a well rounded flavor but an overcooked and grainy texture kept things grounded and the cheeseburger while rich was lacking any of the big beef flavor that makes a burger truly worth eating. As is always the case with these one shot deals, I could have well hit Pharmacy Burger on an off Sunday, but with such infrequent visits to Nashville, I’ll take my chances elsewhere.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Pharmacy Burger Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=The+Pharmacy+Burger+Parlor+%26+Beer+Garden,+Mcferrin+Avenue,+Nashville,+TN&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=pharmacy+bur&amp;hq=The+Pharmacy+Burger+Parlor+%26+Beer+Garden,+Mcferrin+Avenue,+Nashville,+TN&amp;t=m&amp;z=15">731 McFerrin Ave. Nashville, TN 37206</a> // 615.712.9517 // <a href="http://thepharmacynashville.com/">Pharmacy Burger Website</a> // <a href="http://thepharmacynashville.com/food">Pharmacy Burger Menu</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/1644330/restaurant/East-Nashville/The-Pharmacy-Burger-Parlor-and-Beer-Garden-Nashville"><img alt="The Pharmacy Burger Parlor and Beer Garden on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1644330/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/02/pharmacy-burger-nashville.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-9066219497657231905Tue, 19 Feb 2013 03:43:00 +00002013-02-18T21:43:41.603-06:00chineseCooking at Homecooking the bookCulinaria ChinaShanghaishrimpCooking the Book - Culinaria China - Freshwater Shrimp<br /><div class="MsoNormal">At this point in my life, the joy of Christmas is certainly more in the giving of presents than in the receiving of them, but that’s not to say I’ll turn down a thoughtful gift. One gift I received this year was a massive tome titled <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/CULINARIA-CHINA-Country-Cuisine-Culture/dp/3833149957/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1361245149&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=culinaria+china">Culinaria China</a></i>. Weighing nearly 10 pounds and damn close to 500 pages long, it’s hard to know where or how to start. Thankfully the book is divided 18 sections with each section devoted to a major province, but it wasn’t until after the madness of the holidays that I was able to really sit down and thumb through this installment of the <a href="http://www.ullmann-publishing.com/en/books/series/culinaria/">Ullmann Culinaria series</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With my predilection of “ma la”, it is little wonder that the first province I looked for was Sichuan province. However, I quickly had the rather annoying realization that recipes were in relatively short supply in this book. The Sichuan section contained a scant seven recipes and looking through the recipe index, there were scarcely 200 listed for the entire book. More than a little disenfranchised, I put <i>Culinaria China</i> back on my shelf for abnormally large books and essentially forgot about it for the next month.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Feeling guilty that I didn’t give any of <i>Culinaria China’s</i> recipes a chance, last week I decided to see what it could offer in the way of ideas for shrimp. Settling into the section titled Shanghai Delicacies, I decided that a recipe for Freshwater Shrimp would be fine place to begin.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">As you may have guessed, freshwater shrimp are a bit hard to come by in Jackson, Mississippi so I made do with some fresh gulf shrimp in their stead.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Ingredients</div><div class="MsoNormal">-1 piece of leek (3/4 inch long) chopped into thin slices</div><div class="MsoNormal">-1 piece of ginger (3/4 inch long) chopped into thin slices</div><div class="MsoNormal">-1 tbsp coriander seeds, crushed</div><div class="MsoNormal">-20 unpeeled freshwater shrimp, I deveined the shrimp and removed the legs</div><div class="MsoNormal">-2/3 cup vegetable oil</div><div class="MsoNormal">-2 tsp rice wine</div><div class="MsoNormal">-1/2 tsp salt</div><div class="MsoNormal">-1 ½ tbsp sugar</div><div class="MsoNormal">-2 tsp soy sauce</div><div class="MsoNormal">-1 tbsp water</div><div class="MsoNormal">-1 tsp sesame oil</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Besides being a recipe that used shrimp, I was intrigued by the idea of coriander seeds in Chinese cuisine.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8488222098/" title="IMG_1781 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1781" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8507/8488222098_1f694a30fe.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The recipe didn’t mention deveining the shrimp but I decided it would be prudent. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With my wok over high heat, I added a half cup of oil until it began to smoke and then added the shrimp.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8488221722/" title="IMG_1790 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1790" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8518/8488221722_4537d15a89.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Instructed to fry until tender, I pulled them when they were just turning pink.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8488221416/" title="IMG_1793 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1793" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8089/8488221416_c1a7f563c5.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Nicely pink if a bit oily shrimp</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The remaining ¼ cup of oil was added to the wok and after waiting for the first wisps of smoke, the next step began.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8488221066/" title="IMG_1794 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1794" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8094/8488221066_35460232be.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Ginger, coriander, and leek stir fried until tender.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8488220698/" title="IMG_1796 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1796" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8112/8488220698_831cf3c2a3.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">I then added the rest of the ingredients, the rice wine, salt, sugar, soy sauce and water.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">At this point, the recipe was a bit vague.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8488220284/" title="IMG_1797 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1797" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8488220284_73f8eb265d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />I was instructed to cook this sauce for five minutes but I would have had a wok coated in fragrant caramel long before that time was up.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8487127489/" title="IMG_1798 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1798" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8487127489_4a23f6181e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Hoping to get a good coating of flavor on the shrimp, I added them back to the wok along with the sesame oil and tossed to coat.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8488222452/" title="IMG_1799 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1799" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8374/8488222452_ce62e27a19.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">As the picture suggests, this shrimp were a bit oily but the sweetness of the caramelized sugar in conjunction with the coriander and ginger was captivating. The shrimp were gone in a flash with little more than a pile of shells and burnt sugar on my wok to show for it. Although it a while for me to give this book a chance, I was quite pleased with the results of the first recipe. At the very least, while this book may not be bursting at the seams with recipes, it does provide some unique insights into the cultures and gastronomic diversity of a few of China’s provinces. That’s good enough reason to keep <i>Culinaria China</i> around for a little bit longer.&nbsp;</div>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/02/cooking-book-culinaria-china-freshwater.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-5277452748107748937Wed, 13 Feb 2013 04:05:00 +00002013-02-12T22:05:28.542-06:00blackenedcomebackCrabcakesCrawfishfried oystersJacksonmangooystersporkRestaurant ReviewsSeafoodtilapiaEslava's Grill - Jackson<br /><div class="MsoNormal">It’s no secret that I love pho. Skimming through the archives of this site reveals that a fair amount of my Atlanta posts have centered on the various pho outlets of Buford Highway, but Jackson has a much more limited selection. As a result, about once a week, I’ll make the lunch time trek from downtown to <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2009/05/saigon-jackson.html">Saigon</a> on Lakeland Drive for helping of pho dac biet with plenty of sriracha and fish sauce. However there is more to Lakeland than Phong’s pho. In the past, I have written about <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/04/table-100-flowood.html">Table 100</a>, <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2011/10/fusion-jackson.html">Fusion</a>, and <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/01/grants-kitchen-flowood.html">Grant’s Kitchen</a>, but one restaurant that I’ve been missing is Eslava’s Grille. Although I never tried Danny Eslava’s food when he was at AJ’s, over the past few months I’ve had a taste of what Chef Eslava can produce when his name is the one on the door.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">As with many things in Jackson, my first meal at Eslava’s began with comeback dressing.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8470125076/" title="IMG_4819 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4819" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8239/8470125076_49137c96bf.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />However, Eslava’s comeback is miles away from your standard Greek restaurant comeback.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469030607/" title="IMG_4820 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4820" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8505/8469030607_15d9ac61b1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Each forkful of dressing topped lettuce was heavily seasoned and packed with cumin and the floral spiciness of peppercorns.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With the arrival of the crab cake appetizer, it became apparent that almost every dish at Eslava’s would feature a cream or mayo based sauce.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8470124698/" title="IMG_4821 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4821" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8516/8470124698_636d12cf8f.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Mango salsa is a rare beast in the Jackson area but it works well with these crabcakes.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8470124542/" title="IMG_4822 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4822" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8112/8470124542_025447f10e.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">These were a compact pair.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8470124216/" title="IMG_4827 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4827" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8518/8470124216_97f4a88e3d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Densely packed, there was a moderate amount of binder but not enough to infringe on the sweetness of the crab meat.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469030101/" title="IMG_4823 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4823" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8100/8469030101_ebd953cc11.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">While the creamy sauce worked beautifully with the crab cakes, the mango salsa was a different animal. Sweet at first, it, like every dish component I would encounter, would begin to build an additional layer of spiciness on my tongue with each bite. These crab cakes may not have been the finest lump crabmeat, but combination of the crab, the bright fruity flavors of the mango salsa, and the creamy sauce overcame any real shortcomings.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Much to my family’s chagrin, I have never truly warmed to the idea of cream sauce with pasta. I’ll cook it if asked but it’s rarely my choice at a restaurant. With his crawfish pasta, Chef Eslava makes a fair case for me to reconsider my position.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8470123924/" title="IMG_4834 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4834" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8090/8470123924_b2628a739f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Actually, allow me to be more succinct. The crawfish and cream sauce are worth the consideration, the pasta is overcooked and completely forgettable.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8470124054/" title="IMG_4830 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4830" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8373/8470124054_3e419f8dc7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />From the start, they are not shy about piling on the tails. Looking like half a pound of tailmeat if it was an ounce, these crawfish were sweet and just a bit briny while the sauce is more of that unique Eslava flavor. With a creamy texture on the tongue and an initial nuttiness that was remarkably similar to Thai satay sauce, this sauce kept building more of that background spiciness with each bite.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Despite how much I had enjoyed my first visit to Eslava’s Grille, it quickly slipped into the background of Lakeland Drive. It wasn’t until more than six months later that I decided I should head back to see if things were still up to par. This time things began with a few fried oysters.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469029419/" title="IMG_5402 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5402" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8513/8469029419_4a392e7382.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />There is little doubt that Eslava errs on the side of undercooking his oysters. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469029275/" title="IMG_5406 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5406" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8519/8469029275_221b7bca72.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Coated in a thin, cumin scented cornmeal shell and barely fried, these fat, gulf oysters were quite juicy but their crust was oily on the bottom and fell off at the slightest touch. Oddly, this was of the few dishes at Eslava’s where the sauce was not complimentary as it completely destroyed the cornmeal crust and obscured the brininess of the oysters.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Hoping to find a dish that didn’t involve cream, the blackened tilapia seemed like a fair bet.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8470123330/" title="IMG_5407 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5407" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8242/8470123330_a7d44a92ec.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">What arrived at my table was a large tilapia filet blanketed in a rainbow of tan, browned, and blackened spices.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8470123138/" title="IMG_5409 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5409" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8089/8470123138_824cf62da5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Initially the fish didn’t have an overpowering blackened flavor, but as is the case with most Eslava dishes, this clean flavor was quickly joined by a wave of peppercorns and the spice of chilies.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469028793/" title="IMG_5412 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5412" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8508/8469028793_7024635b05.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />For the most part this tilapia was tender and quite juicy but the most sublime bites were the crispy edges where the crunch of the fish was joined by the full flavor of the blackening seasonings.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Typically a side of potatoes isn’t worth mentioning but there was something captivating about the potatoes that accompanied this blackened filet.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469032401/" title="IMG_5413 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5413" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8243/8469032401_b4c26e8f88.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Just a bit salty, the contrast of crispy edges and a creamy interior was a nice foil to the forward spices and textures of the fish.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Drastically reducing my reaction time, a third visit to Eslava’s came just a week later and began with a unique interpretation of spinach and artichoke dip.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469032261/" title="IMG_2184 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_2184" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8469032261_6ffc53cd1c.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">In most restaurants, artichoke dip is a quivering mass of cream and cheese, but Eslava’s version stands out as the artichokes and spinach actually had a discernable texture.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469032087/" title="IMG_2185 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_2185" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8469032087_c074e15c9f.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Supposedly there was crawfish in this dip, but I certainly couldn’t find them.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469031917/" title="IMG_2186 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_2186" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8518/8469031917_d73ab1f0ed.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">I’m not quite sure why the bread was only toasted on one side but a more pressing issue was the texture of the dip. Either a grainy texture to the cheese or some uncooperative breadcrumbs, the mouth feel of this dip kept me from enjoying what could have been one of the better spinach and artichoke dips that I’ve found.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">At this point, it seemed that every dish had featured seafood but I decided to change that and see how Eslava would handle the potential pitfalls of the pork tenderloin.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8470125756/" title="IMG_2191 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_2191" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8109/8470125756_1a9a448e12.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Once again, Eslava was not shy with the crawfish.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469031735/" title="IMG_2190 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_2190" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8506/8469031735_30e6288993.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Much like chicken breast, pork tenderloin has a tendency to dry out easily but these medallions were quite juicy and brimming with that familiar but unique flavor.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469031297/" title="IMG_2192 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_2192" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8529/8469031297_5fb9e5d95d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />This time the crawfish in the sauce were certainly overcooked and bit chewy but they brought an element of sweetness that was complimented by the growing chili heat of the sauce.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469031145/" title="IMG_2193 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_2193" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8099/8469031145_d6becfb904.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />The simple, initial flavor of the pork was quickly joined by that elusive flavor.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8469030939/" title="IMG_2196 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_2196" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8107/8469030939_3b85424a0d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Already full from the artichoke dip, I spent most of the meal trying to discern the components of the sauce. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Aside from the base flavor of cumin, the sauce was a bit salty, slightly sweet with a faint chili heat in the background. With thoughts of mojo bouncing around in my head, I asked the waitress for guidance and she responded that Danny Eslava says it’s all a secret. Mildly frustrating, I suppose there is a certain charm for a restaurateur to have a secret to his success. However, Eslava doesn’t rely on a secret ingredient for his menu, by and large this is seafood that is well seasoned and well prepared. There were a few stumbles along the way but Eslava’s Grille is a nice alternative to pho and fish sauce.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Eslava’s Grille Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Eslavas,+Lakeland+Drive,+Flowood,+MS&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=eslava&amp;hq=Eslavas,&amp;hnear=Lakeland+Dr,+Flowood,+Mississippi&amp;t=m&amp;z=13&amp;iwloc=A">2481 Lakeland Dr. Jackson, MS 39216</a> // 601.932.4070 // <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Eslavas-Grille/170354922978448">Eslava's Grille Facebook</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/176/1567303/restaurant/Jackson/Jackson/Eslavas-Grille-Flowood"><img alt="Eslava's Grille on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1567303/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/02/eslavas-grill-jackson.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-1270958870161545141Tue, 05 Feb 2013 04:31:00 +00002013-02-04T22:31:23.158-06:00gin and tonicgrouperhot fried chickenmortadellaNashvilleoreosRestaurant ReviewsscallopssquabTennesseeThe Catbird Seat - Nashville<br /><div class="MsoNormal">I remember my first attempt at dining at The Catbird Seat. It was May of this past year and I was planning my annual drive to Indy with a stop in Nashville. Skimming through the various outlets, I read about the newest and hottest restaurant in Music City. Named The Catbird Seat, it was headed by co-executive chefs Josh Habinger and Erik Anderson and they each carried a resume worth killing for. Habinger had worked with Blumenthal at Fat Duck, Colicchio at Craft, and Achatz at Alinea; Anderson was no slouch either with Keller at the French Laundry &amp; Redzepi at Noma to his name. The two of them reigned over a kitchen that could best be described as dinner theater where the diners sit at a U-shaped bar surrounding the kitchen. Having <a href="http://www.esquire.com/features/food-drink/best-new-restaurants-2012-catbird-seat-nashville#slide-32">never served more than 41 people in a night</a>, seats were hard to come by and I was too late and out of luck.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Some months later the summer was over and I had put The Catbird Seat out of my mind until next May but things changed when I received an invitation to a wedding in Lexington, KY. Once my room was booked and travel arrangements tentatively planned, I turned to the ever important dinner plans. Knowing that the road from Jackson to Lexington passed through Nashville, I decided to take a leisurely route and stop in Nashville both going and coming. As with Per Se in New York and Husk in Charleston, I made a reservation as soon as I could; I was not going to miss an opportunity to try one of the most well reviewed restaurants in the south.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Once I was past the rather odd entrance, rode the elevator, and made my way down the mesmerizing corridor, I was shown to a corner seat and was soon greeted a savory oreo.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443016652/" title="IMG_5171 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5171" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8238/8443016652_d9196c434f.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">With a porcini mushroom exterior and parmesan interior, this was my first non-Nabisco, non-sugary Oreo and it was packed with an incredibly savory, meaty flavor. A precocious beginning if there ever was one.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">It’s been almost three years now but given the opportunity, I still take to heart my friend Frank’s advice about tasting menus: "Always get the tasting menu, you put yourself in the chef’s hands." For The Catbird Seat, I decided that advice also applied to beverages so I placed my drinks in the able hands of Jane Lopes.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925903/" title="IMG_5172 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5172" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8359/8441925903_cf85a5fe2c.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">For the first course, Lopes mixed Lillet Rose, Green Chartreuse, Muscadet, and carbonated water with lime. It would be the first of many unique and superb pairings.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The other half of the first pairing was a trio of small dishes.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443016540/" title="IMG_5173 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5173" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8443016540_f988225285.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Working left to right, we had mortadella, shiitake cracker jack, and a take on hot chicken.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925765/" title="IMG_5181 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5181" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8236/8441925765_7bc4464fe1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />A departure from every mortadella I had ever tasted, this morsel had a texture like foie but the undeniable flavor of mortadella. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925763/" title="IMG_5180 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5180" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8441925763_df8566bdf2.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">This shiitake cracker jack was crunchy as expected but both savory and sweet.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925825/" title="IMG_5179 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5179" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8359/8441925825_7026b33f60.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">More akin to a cracker packed with cayenne and paprika than any hot chicken I’ve encountered; the two bits of creamy wonder bread puree were a nice foil to the pungent spices.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Nantucket Bay scallop tartar topped with slices of Mt. Rose apple was the focus of the second course.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925629/" title="IMG_5184 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5184" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8506/8441925629_85164a7956.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">A mix of textures and flavors, the highlight was the combination of the creaminess of the Island Creek oyster puree and the richness of the scallop.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925667/" title="IMG_5182 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5182" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8495/8441925667_990067f319.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">2010 Domaine de la Vielle Julienne Cotes du Rhone Blanc was the pairing.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">If there is anything that I inherited from my grandmother it was a love of gin &amp; tonics and when the salad course was described as a fennel g &amp; t, it was music to my ears.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925581/" title="IMG_5187 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5187" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8475/8441925581_98aa63d8b8.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Amidst the foam, this salad was a combination of juniper &amp; quinine, almond, cucumber, and lychee.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925539/" title="IMG_5189 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5189" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8355/8441925539_43a5d72e2a.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Even though it was over in an instant, each bite carried a wonderful crunch and a bright flavor of juniper that was balanced with the lychee sweetness. With the 2009 Trimbach Gewurztraminer rounding the flavors, it was a brilliant salad that very well may have ruined my idea of the perfect gin and tonic.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The second seafood course was departure from the light flavors of the scallop as the grouper was wrapped with chipotle.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443016306/" title="IMG_5190 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5190" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8474/8443016306_c9dbf6c1f4.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Thankfully this meaty yet tender piece of grouper was an ample match for the dense spiciness of the chipotle wrapping.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443016226/" title="IMG_5192 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5192" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8075/8443016226_9abe7c55bc.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Avocado, pickled onion, radish, coconut, and pumpkin seeds added an extra dimension of creaminess to the fish and chili combination while a 2010 Robert Weil Riesling provided a touch of sweetness.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Pigeon is a meat that you rarely see on restaurant menus, but one with the foot still attached was a new one to me.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925331/" title="IMG_5195 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5195" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8358/8441925331_9fcef360f1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Of course, the novelty of a claw only goes so far, luckily this pigeon in squab dashi proved to be one of the best dishes of the night.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925401/" title="IMG_5194 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5194" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8499/8441925401_04671c21ca.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Beneath the surprisingly crispy skin of the pigeon was a beautifully silky meat with a rich, salty flavor.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443016140/" title="IMG_5196 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5196" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8091/8443016140_93ee7c5219.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />The other dish components, the dashi, forest mushrooms, and egg yolk offered a creamy and uniquely savory broth while the hibiscus provided a raw vegetal flavor that cut through the fattiness. The 2009 Patrice Rion Hautes Cotes de Nuits was well suited to the fowl and dashi but hardly clashed with the hibiscus.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Course number six featured fewer claws but the flavors certainly did not diminish.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441925231/" title="IMG_5199 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5199" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8513/8441925231_fc1c6f55e1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Before I started on the ribeye, I indulged in the Yukon gold chip and it was nothing less than what sour cream and onion chips should be.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443016020/" title="IMG_5200 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5200" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8496/8443016020_f63c0f6eef.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />As you might expect, this ribeye was marvelously cooked with a&nbsp; big and bold beefy flavor but it was far from tender. But the crunch of finishing salt and juicy beef made up for the chewiness.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443015942/" title="IMG_5204 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5204" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8367/8443015942_4014812f85.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />&nbsp;Texture aside, I wasn’t sold on the combination of beets, horseradish, and dill but Lopes’ mixing of “Celebrator” Bavaria with Aquavit was a fine foil to the beef..</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">It’s hard to describe the next dish.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443015806/" title="IMG_5207 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5207" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8215/8443015806_5808da3d89.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Labeled as a Harbison on the menu, this was a combination of barley, hops, yeast, orange, and syrup and it bore a striking resemblance to puffed rice cereal.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443015922/" title="IMG_5206 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5206" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8516/8443015922_1997ec2e76.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Challenging my ideas of mixed drinks, the sublime pair to the Harbison was champagne with quince vinegar, honey, and walnut liqueur. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Nearing the end of the meal, a pear sorbet was next.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443015576/" title="IMG_5208 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5208" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8078/8443015576_c66eed5d5c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Aside from the amusing presentation, this had base of clean, pear flavor.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443015816/" title="IMG_5210 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5210" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8072/8443015816_f4ec759830.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">But the addition of cardamom and vanilla with fernet gel and black walnut gave an extra layer of dark richness. Building on the subtle qualities of the pear, the pairing was a sparkling sake that was as light as the sorbet’s texture.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">While the pear may have cleansed my palate from the entrees, the desserts began with the deadly combination of egg maple custard with thyme and bacon.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443015562/" title="IMG_5214 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5214" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8227/8443015562_437c8348a6.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Inside the egg was a dense, syrup flavored, and just a bit salty custard.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443015750/" title="IMG_5218 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5218" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8496/8443015750_c5d4be8fca.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Standing like a mast was a gossamer thin slice of Benton’s bacon.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Simply labeled “Bourbon” on the menu, the dessert was dotted with balls of encapsulated Bullit bourbon.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443015536/" title="IMG_5219 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5219" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8088/8443015536_22ee6b8f1d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">In addition to fine bourbon were a vanilla cake, pineapple gel, and an oak I.C.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441924951/" title="IMG_5220 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5220" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8441924951_595ff40d33.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />A quenelle of charred oak ice cream and sugar that was oddly reminiscent of a fruit roll up.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443015710/" title="IMG_5224 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5224" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8046/8443015710_55e8feb32d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />The aforementioned vanilla cake and pineapple gel.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443016964/" title="IMG_5222 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5222" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8082/8443016964_1b0f67d328.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />They may be little more than a party trick, but there is something satisfying about biting down and tasting the gush of bourbon.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Of course things simply couldn’t end with dessert. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8443015440/" title="IMG_5226 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5226" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8085/8443015440_9884dc4718.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Dinner at The Catbird Seat was bracketed by oreos, savory at the start and coffee and cream sweetness to finish. True to its name, this oreo tasted like a mocha latte but it paled in comparison to its savory counterpart.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">While waiting for the restroom in between courses, I noticed a bookshelf above the bathroom door.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8441926089/" title="The Catbird Seat Bookshelf by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="The Catbird Seat Bookshelf" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8212/8441926089_f4eac6ecce.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">From Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall’s <i>Meat </i>to <i>Modernist Cuisine</i>, it was a food nerd’s ideal cookbook collection. This meager but quite pricy collection also made clear from where Habinger and Anderson took a bit of their inspiration, but there was little doubt that they had applied a personal and slightly southern twist to some of their ideas. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With all that in mind, what’s the final verdict on The Catbird Seat? While it’s certainly on its own level in Nashville, it makes a fair case for standing shoulder to shoulder with some of the Michelin starred forerunners. The modernist approach to cuisine and molecular gastronomy are always entertaining but there &nbsp;are some delightful flavor combinations and serious skills at work at The Catbird Seat. I also appreciate a restaurant where the chefs are more than happy to discuss the dishes with the patrons. However, for as much as I enjoyed the 12 or so courses, the star of the show was Jane Lopes and her mixes and pairings. Prior to this meal, I’ve never given much thought to wine and liqueurs being mixed much less working together well, but she did it flawlessly. Although The Catbird Seat may never get any Michelin stars due to their location and they were snubbed on their James Beard nomination, The Catbird Seat was worth the effort and I now know why people show off their dinner menus as trophies.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>The Catbird Seat Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=THE+CATBIRD+SEAT,+Division+Street,+Nashville,+TN&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=the+cat&amp;hq=THE+CATBIRD+SEAT,+Division+Street,+Nashville,+TN&amp;t=m&amp;z=15">1711 Division St. Nashville, TN 37203</a> // 615.248.8458 // <a href="http://www.thecatbirdseatrestaurant.com/">TheCatbird Seat Website</a> // &nbsp;<a href="http://www.thecatbirdseatrestaurant.com/reservation.html">The Catbird Seat Reservations</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/1620552/restaurant/Belmont-Vanderbilt/The-Catbird-Seat-Nashville"><img alt="The Catbird Seat on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1620552/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/02/the-catbird-seat-nashville.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-6325627446925571027Mon, 28 Jan 2013 04:03:00 +00002013-01-27T22:03:57.251-06:00BBQbbq chicken wingschicken wingsMemphispork ribspulled porkRestaurant ReviewsribsSausageTennesseeCentral BBQ - Memphis<br /><div class="MsoNormal">At this point, it seems like I’ve covered a number of the big names in Memphis bbq:&nbsp;<a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2011/06/paynes-bar-b-que-memphis.html">Payne’s</a>, <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2011/02/cozy-corner-memphis.html">Cozy Corner</a>, <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2010/06/jim-neelys-interstate-bar-b-que-memphis.html">Neely’s Interstate BBQ</a>, <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2009/08/germantown-commissary-memphis.html">Germantown Commissary</a>, <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2009/08/corkys-bar-b-q-memphis.html">Corky’s</a>, and the lackluster <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2009/08/neelys-bar-b-que-memphis.html">Neely’s</a>,&nbsp;but there’s always more to try in this BBQ Mecca. So the last time I was Memphis, I decided to stop by a restaurant that is often named in Memphis bbq discussions, Central BBQ.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">If there is one major challenge to eating bbq, it’s knowing what to order. Presented with a full menu of options, I typically decide the best thing is to try as much as possible and at Central BBQ that could only mean a rib combo plate. It wasn’t long before my order was ready and what better place to start than with smoked wings?<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8422815834/" title="IMG_1425 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1425" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8079/8422815834_9ea7e5dcda.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Typically, wings would be the last thing I’ll order at a bbq joint but a ringing <a href="http://fcg-bbq.blogspot.com/2011/05/central-bbq.html">endorsement</a>&nbsp;from <a href="http://fcg-bbq.blogspot.com/">Full Custom BBQ</a> made me give them a go.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8421721283/" title="IMG_1428 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1428" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8329/8421721283_04c59a5533.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />In my experience, bbq chicken wings are a gummy, smoky affair that is best avoided but these wings were miles ahead of any bbq wing I’ve ever eaten. Each bite was rewarded with a crispy crunch and a full assault of smoky and spicy paprika flavored seasoning. Even after being smoked and deep fried, the only downside to these wings was the lingering heat of the dry rub made me wish I had ordered more than three.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With the wings little more than a pile of bones, it was time to move to the rib combo plate.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8422814830/" title="IMG_1432 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1432" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8422814830_c7fe4ce881.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Skipping the bologna on this visit, I decided to try Central BBQ’s hand at sausage, pulled pork, and ribs with mac &amp; cheese and baked beans for my sides.<br /><!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br /><!--[endif]--></div><div class="MsoNormal">Working left to right, the pulled pork was first on the chopping block.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8422813812/" title="IMG_1435 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1435" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8074/8422813812_af988fa030.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />It did seem a little strange that the pulled pork arrived without any sauce but I took it as an opportunity for the pork to stand on its own merits. How did it fare? Not particularly well. There may have been a little flavor from the rub and hickory smoke but without sauce this pork was overcooked and chalky.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The pulled pork may have needed sauce to be worthwhile but the sausage needed no such help.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8421719345/" title="IMG_1436 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1436" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8213/8421719345_cf30035fea.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">A pleasant snap to the casing, a hot and juicy interior, there was no mistaking a well cooked sausage.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8422812854/" title="IMG_1437 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1437" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8083/8422812854_098d62fc11.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">While I’m still unsure about the type of sausage (I’m thinking kielbasa), it was a solid choice for the combo plate regardless of type.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Hoping for the best of both worlds, Central BBQ was kind enough to serve my order of ribs half dry and half wet.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8422814364/" title="IMG_1434 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1434" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8189/8422814364_aef4827949.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">I did think it was interesting that there wasn’t any additional rub on the dry ribs.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8422811018/" title="IMG_1446 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1446" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8503/8422811018_ea4431a1d6.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">That’s right; there was nothing but well smoked, juicy pork ribs with surprisingly little rub flavor.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8422816310/" title="IMG_1448 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1448" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8326/8422816310_980aabf02e.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">In addition to the rosy hue of the smoke ring, the texture was spot on as well. The meat didn’t fall off the bone, but it did need a gentle tug.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />Oddly enough the wet ribs pulled off the bone much easier than the dry.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8421717581/" title="IMG_1445 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1445" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8491/8421717581_133ec0fe64.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />The texture of the meat was still superb while the sauce was sweet but relatively benign. Far from overwhelming the flavor of the ribs, it did little more than add moisture and a dimension of sweetness.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">A combo plate wouldn’t be complete without the sides.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8422812414/" title="IMG_1440 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1440" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8357/8422812414_2a8e09ab0a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />There was a decent mustard flavor to these baked beans and a nice amount of pork. It was also refreshing to taste some baked beans that weren’t tooth achingly sweet.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8421717957/" title="IMG_1441 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1441" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8192/8421717957_4096b6899d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />This mac and cheese was insanely thick and quickly forgotten.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">As infrequently as I visit Memphis, I’m far from having a working hierarchy of best bbq joints, but Central BBQ deserves another meal if only for their smoked wings. The wings with their captivating rub and the snappy sausage were the real highlights of the lunch with the ribs lagging just a bit behind. As for the rest of the plate, some things are best left unsaid.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Central BBQ Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Central+BBQ,+Central+Avenue,+Memphis,+TN&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=central+bbq&amp;hq=Central+BBQ,+Central+Avenue,+Memphis,+TN&amp;t=m&amp;z=15">2249 Central Ave. Memphis, TN 38104</a> // 901.272.9377 // <a href="http://www.cbqmemphis.com/">Central BBQ Website</a> // <a href="http://www.cbqmemphis.com/menu.html">Central BBQ Menu</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/50/540311/restaurant/Midtown/Central-BBQ-Memphis"><img alt="Central BBQ on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/540311/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/01/central-bbq-memphis.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-2647433425093516136Mon, 14 Jan 2013 03:23:00 +00002013-01-13T21:23:06.563-06:00blood sausageCharcuterieCrabdessertduckMagazine streetNew OrleansremouladeRestaurant ReviewsCoquette - New Orleans<br /><div class="MsoNormal">We’re nearing the middle of January. The holidays are over, there’s playoff football on tv, I don’t have any big travel plans on the horizon, and I can no longer put off what has been a fairly fulfilling hobby for the past four or five years. With a new front of rain and cold weather making a grand entrance, I decided to see what was next in my alligator clip of restaurant notes.<br /><br /><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Sometime in late October, my dad and I made a quick day trip down to New Orleans. While we never need a good excuse to visit the crescent city, a visit to George Bass and restocking on tasso and andouille at Cochon Butcher were the main goals. Of course, no trip to Nola is complete without a fine meal and that prompted the eternal question of where to go. Although I’ve been partly following the wave of burger joints that are now dotting the city, I wanted something a little more refined. Enter this <a href="http://www.blackenedout.com/2012/10/my-favorite-restaurant.html">post</a>&nbsp;by Rene of <a href="http://www.blackenedout.com/">Blackened Out</a>. Although I don’t always completely agree with Rene and Peter’s assessments of restaurants, I’ve come away happy with their recommendations more often than not.&nbsp; So after a quick stop in the CBD and filling the cooler in the Warehouse district, we made our way up Magazine to Coquette.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Rarely seen on menus and even more rarely seen on this site, our time at Coquette began with a small plate of blood sausage.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8378150859/" title="IMG_5078 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5078" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8515/8378150859_80e631db68.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Seeing housemade charcuterie on the menu may have become old hat but it takes gumption to serve blood sausage even with an onion broth, diced gala apple, and Hook’s cheddar.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8379228730/" title="IMG_5080 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5080" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8495/8379228730_d18b5c4ede.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Boldness aside, I was surprised at the mild flavor of the blood sausage. Each began tasting like a meaty, slightly overdone piece of andouille that finished with a tail of iron flavor.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8378150469/" title="IMG_5081 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5081" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8500/8378150469_40ab199a1f.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">When combined with the sweetness of the onions and apple, everything worked quite well but thankfully, with every bite, that tail reminded you just what you were eating.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The next small plate was a much more benign meat but no less flavorful.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8378150277/" title="IMG_5083 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5083" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8470/8378150277_e5f468b736.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Served on a piece of slate, this boiled Louisiana crabmeat was paired with remoulade, boiled potatoes, quail eggs, and artichoke chips.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8378150003/" title="IMG_5084 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5084" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8373/8378150003_31388aa3e1.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Sweet and spicy claw meat, a creamy remoulade with a manageable heat level, and sublimely hard boiled quail egg were good enough to eat separately. <br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8379227892/" title="IMG_5085 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5085" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8466/8379227892_d44154f477.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />While each component was brilliant on its own, when combined, they made a refined and endearingly spicy crab and potato salad.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Although I had picked Coquette specifically to avoid a burger for lunch, I had a hard time stopping myself from order the Coquette burger. The pull of good cheddar, bacon, and chanterelles is that strong, thankfully pull of well cooked duck breast is stronger.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8379227706/" title="IMG_5088 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5088" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/8379227706_ba075a0163.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">According to the Coquette menu, this plate was little more than duck, jalapeno, bacon, and quince but there was much more than quartet.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8379227476/" title="IMG_5090 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5090" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8238/8379227476_01cd76a2f1.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Beneath the cracker crunch skin and more than medium rare meat of the duck was a sweet and sultry underbelly of collards, bacon, quince, and sweet pepper jam.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8378149173/" title="IMG_5091 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5091" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8323/8378149173_5799eb1ed0.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">While the delightfully salty and densely flavored duck breast alone may have well justified coming to Coquette, </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8378148943/" title="IMG_5094 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5094" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8043/8378148943_53723c3fe0.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">the fact that every other bite was punctuated by sweet and smoky flavors of its bedding put things over the top.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">After sharing two small plates and, for lack of a better word, gorging on a large plate of duck breast, I was ready to call it a day and begin making our way north, but my father had taken advantage of Coquette’s excellent three course lunch option and his dessert had just arrived.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8378148771/" title="IMG_5095 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5095" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8512/8378148771_683db36f50.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Called chocolate munchkins, this little balls were bite size pieces of brownie with a coating of powdered sugar.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8379226748/" title="IMG_5096 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5096" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8495/8379226748_65c5de7cd6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />With a crispy exterior and a cakey if a bit dry interior, they were delectable with the hot fudge.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8378151019/" title="IMG_5097 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5097" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8498/8378151019_53d975f52f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />But the real treat came with the fudge and munchkins were combined with the quenelle of mint ice cream, it was a complete mint chocolate cake.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">One thing that’s painfully obvious about Coquette is that their three course lunch for $20 is a steal but my three courses were no slouches either. The bottom line is there was not a weak link to any of the six dishes we tried and while I can’t speak for the local greens or the shrimp and grits, the four I got my hands on were superb. I’d have to at least be back for dinner before I get anywhere near Rene’s assessment of Coquette as a potential model for favorite restaurant, but three or four more meals at Coquette sounds like a fine idea to me.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Coquette Address &amp; Information<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Coquette,+Magazine+Street,+New+Orleans,+LA&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=coquette,+n&amp;hq=Coquette,+Magazine+Street,+New+Orleans,+LA&amp;t=m&amp;z=15">2800 Magazine Street, New Orleans, LA 70115</a> // 504.265.0421 // <a href="http://www.coquette-nola.com/">Coquette Website</a> // <a href="http://www.coquette-nola.com/eat.html">Coquette Menu</a> // <a href="http://www.opentable.com/coquette-reservations-new-orleans?restref=320">Coquette Reservations</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/57/1419755/restaurant/Garden-District/Coquette-New-Orleans"><img alt="Coquette on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1419755/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2013/01/coquette-new-orleans.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-3026427981716969707Fri, 07 Dec 2012 04:58:00 +00002012-12-06T22:58:46.610-06:00Atlantachicken liverchicken skingyozaJapanesekushiyakiporkramenRestaurant Reviewssquidtonkotsu ramenyakitoriYakitori Jinbei - Atlanta<br /><div class="MsoNormal">Monday evening in Atlanta and I was craving kushiyaki, more specifically chicken skin kushiyaki. Ah, chicken skin, the oh so maligned part of the chicken anatomy that ranks near the oyster as my favorite. To think of the countess Americans that buy boneless skinless chicken breast and deprive themselves of that hard earned flavor, but I digress. Unfortunately, both Jennifer and I’s favorite Atlanta kushiyaki vendor, Shoya Izakaya, is closed on Mondays and with our last visit to Miso Izakaya ending lukewarm at best, we were at a loss about where to go. Through either a stroke of fortuitous googling or a sudden jolt of memory, Jennifer told me to look up Yakitori Jinbei. Quickly concurring, we were soon on our way to Smyrna and the little strip mall that Yakitori Jinbei calls home.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">As is the case with Jennifer and I at nearly any Asian meal, this one began with a few dumplings.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8251736044/" title="IMG_5044 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5044" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8339/8251736044_602b0d3bf5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Served five to an order, these were sizeable albeit pricy gyoza.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250666265/" title="IMG_5050 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5050" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8349/8250666265_9af73bd5ba.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />A delightful starchy char on the bottom is always a welcome sight.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8251735394/" title="IMG_5051 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5051" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8342/8251735394_25cdfd7e4e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />With a big, juicy pork, scallion, and ginger filling, the gyoza were simple yet satisfying.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Before the first dumpling was finished, the first round of kushiyaki arrived.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250666621/" title="IMG_5047 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5047" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8202/8250666621_1d55705075.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Coated in sweet and smoky tare, this yakitori and negima looked the part.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8251735776/" title="IMG_5048 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5048" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8204/8251735776_7386ea74c0.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">By itself, the chicken yakitori was little more than juicy thigh meat with a lacquered layer of tare. Surprisingly closer to underdone than over, this yakitori ticked the right boxes.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250666389/" title="IMG_5049 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5049" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8486/8250666389_880f04e9e9.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">This was the first time I had seen chicken and green onion labeled as negima kushiyaki, </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250666031/" title="IMG_5052 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5052" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8058/8250666031_0bdc992013.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">but even with a deeply charred onion, there was a welcome green punch to the sweetness and char of the chicken.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Following the lead of the myriad Atlanta food bloggers before me, I made sure to order the tonkotsu ramen.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250665895/" title="IMG_5054 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5054" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8488/8250665895_b8e8c5c8ca.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">I may have read recipes and descriptions, but I wasn’t quite prepared for what was brought to me. Topped with sesame seeds, roasted pork, bamboo shoots, and seaweed, this pork bone ramen was a fat speckled, silky epiphany.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250665731/" title="IMG_5056 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5056" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8480/8250665731_1c0a8c8e7e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />I may be treading dangerously close (or jumping headfirst) to hyperbole, but this was a new benchmark in soup.&nbsp; The noodles were just the right amount of chewy, the broth was fatty and creamy, so very creamy, and the texture was nigh impossible to resist. In fact the only oddity to the dish was the roasted pork. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8251734856/" title="IMG_5057 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5057" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8482/8251734856_5a7773949d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">While the pork was undeniably sweet and nutty, I couldn’t figure out why it was served cold on top of a piping hot bowl of ramen broth.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">As sinful as the tonkotsu ramen may have been, kushiyaki waits for no man. <br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250665375/" title="IMG_5058 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5058" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8207/8250665375_7a14b3933d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Featuring of a fair chunk of Yakitori Jinbei’s yakitori menu, this plate was loaded with all manner of binchotan grilled and tare glazed treats.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Though I’ll sometimes see beef tongue on a yakitori menu, this was my first time seeing gyukushi.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250665223/" title="IMG_5060 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5060" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8481/8250665223_2bd681e2d5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Which cut of beef is gyukushi? I’m still not quite sure.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250664639/" title="IMG_5066 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5066" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8210/8250664639_bde4a11754.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">However, after one bite, the cut was inconsequential. These were thick slabs of mercilessly overcooked beef that were frankly a waste of good meat regardless of how much tare was applied.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Next in line was a chicken meatball or tsukune.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250665059/" title="IMG_5062 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5062" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8486/8250665059_b7db01aa5e.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Much like the yakitori and negima, this chicken skewer was well seared and quite juicy with a meaty texture.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">In contrast to the chicken meatball was the shiitake awaseyaki or chicken stuffed shiitake.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250664493/" title="IMG_5067 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5067" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8062/8250664493_5e100d016d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The meat had a more uneven and handmade look to it, but I couldn’t help but wonder were the mushroom was.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8251733670/" title="IMG_5069 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5069" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8207/8251733670_a0d040b0e0.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Comically small, the flavor of the mushroom in the skewer was subtle at best especially when compared to the dense flavor and texture of the chicken stuffing.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Always on the hunt for well cooked liver, I had high hopes for the chicken liver or tori liver.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8251733554/" title="IMG_5070 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5070" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8251733554_5a324b5738.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Sadly, like the gyukushi beef, no amount of tare could mask the horrendous taste and texture of this liver. As best I can describe, this liver tasted like the cardboard textured gum you would get in baseball cards in the early 90s but dipped in tare.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Grasping for fatty salvation, I moved on to the chicken skin or torikawa.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8251734192/" title="IMG_5063 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5063" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8210/8251734192_d9a62c54f9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Lacking the sublime crunch of the Shoya Izakaya version, this chicken skin kushiyaki wasn’t quite up to par.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8251733390/" title="IMG_5071 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5071" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8064/8251733390_38a2e68b0f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />That being said, there was still an ample amount of that crunchy, crispy edge and fatty interior that has made this one of my favorite kushiyaki skewers. If only every skewer could balance crisp edges, rich chicken flavor, and a heavy tare sweetness this well.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Standing on its own as the lone cephalopod, the squid or ikakushi was an interesting choice.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8250663901/" title="IMG_5072 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5072" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8250663901_ff63b6a942.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Large, chewy, and meaty, this squid wasn’t too shabby.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Nearing the end, the butabara pork was one of two skewers that I ordered salt only.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8251733094/" title="IMG_5073 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5073" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8478/8251733094_5fab7afb14.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Was skipping the tare a good choice with the butabara? If you don’t enjoy the simple flavor of pork then no tare was a poor choice, but for me, I was delighted by the lightly charred pork as it was porky, moist, and packed just the right level of salinity.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">To wrap things up, the final skewer out of the Yakitori Jinbei kitchen was a grilled shrimp or ebikushi.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8251736152/" title="IMG_5075 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5075" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8485/8251736152_2288b91161.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Sticking to the salt only ending, this shrimp had a well charred and very salty shell. As for the inside, it may have had a decent flavor but there was no denying it was completely overcooked.<br /><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">If there was anything I could take away from the first meal at Yakitori Jinbei, it’s that the title of 2010 best ramen in Atlanta from Creative Loafing was more than deserved. For this to be my first proper bowl of tonkotsu ramen, I fear that I may have started down a long path of obsession and my bite of shoyu ramen was no slouch either. Sadly, as I could gush for paragraph after paragraph about the tonkotsu ramen, it was more of a mixed bag with the kushiyaki. While every skewer involving chicken, save the liver, was exemplary, the poor textures of the liver, beef, and shrimp squandered nearly every bit of goodwill the chicken had earned. What it comes down to is that I would, without hesitation, drive across town and maybe even across a state or two for more of that tonkotsu ramen, but the kushiyaki is a different story.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Yakitori Jinbei Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Yakitori+Jinbei,+Cobb+Parkway+Southeast,+Smyrna,+GA&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=yakitori+jin&amp;hq=Yakitori+Jinbei,&amp;hnear=Cobb+Pkwy+SE,+Smyrna,+Georgia&amp;t=m&amp;z=16">2421 Cobb Pkwy SE. Smyrna, GA 30080</a> // 770.818.9215 // <a href="http://www.yakitorirestaurant.com/">Yakitori Jinbei Website</a> // <a href="http://www.yakitorirestaurant.com/menu">Yakitori Jinbei Menu</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/9/120528/restaurant/Atlanta/Yakitori-Jinbei-Smyrna"><img alt="Yakitori Jinbei on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/120528/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/12/yakitori-jinbei-atlanta.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-7988694339050002714Fri, 30 Nov 2012 05:48:00 +00002012-11-29T23:48:46.912-06:00bacon cheeseburgersbolognaCharlestoncheeseburgerscornbreadhamburgersJames Beard Awardpig earRestaurant ReviewsSean Brockshrimp and gritsSouth CarolinaHusk - Charleston<br /><div class="MsoNormal">It’s hard to know where to begin with Sean Brock and Husk. Like most people interested in food, it’s been rather difficult to ignore the press he and his devotion to southern heritage cuisine have been receiving. It’s not often that a chef wins a James Beard award and is covered by <a href="http://www.vogue.com/magazine/article/fresh-prince-charleston-chef-sean-brock/#1">Steingarten</a>, <a href="http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2011/10/31/111031fa_fact_bilger">The New Yorker</a>, the <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/09/dining/09notebook.html?pagewanted=all&amp;_r=0">New York Times</a>, wins best new restaurant from <a href="http://www.bonappetit.com/magazine/slideshows/2011/09/best-new-restaurants-america#slide=10">Bon Appetit</a>, and even gets a few plugs from a little Charleston based outfit called Garden &amp; Gun (<a href="http://gardenandgun.com/article/southern-bone">here</a>&nbsp;&amp; <a href="http://gardenandgun.com/gallery/photos-look-inside-husk-restaurant">here</a>). While I can't say that it's undeserved, I couldn’t help but wonder how much true substance was behind this wall of hype. Although I could spend hours reading about local ingredients, heritage breed animals, heritage plants, and the like, seeing and tasting is believing and I had the good fortune to be back in Charleston with a lunch reservation at Husk with my name on it. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Why lunch reservations for a restaurant like Husk? It’s simple; since I was unable to secure a reasonably timed dinner reservation, I opted for the next best thing, lunch. With time to spare before that evening’s wedding, it was one drive from Kiawah Island and finding a spot in a parking garage before I was soon seated at a table for one for lunch at Husk.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Like so many good meals, this one began with a cocktail.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8230720821/" title="IMG_4990 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4990" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8346/8230720821_bdd2322abf.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Taken from the Charleston Preservation Society, this Charleston Light Dragoon’s Punch was a refreshing mix of California brandy, Jamaican rum, peach brandy, Black tea, lemon juice, and raw sugar. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Normally the bread is a forgotten course but the butter and a recent experience force me to mention it.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231782772/" title="IMG_4992 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4992" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8347/8231782772_a1378d8100.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />The bread at Husk, while excellent in its own right, was secondary to its dressing.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8230720497/" title="IMG_4995 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4995" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8198/8230720497_47c5177841.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Normally I would be bowled over by the mere mention of pork and butter but after an excessive experience with the stuff at <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/10/carnevino-las-vegas.html">Carnevino</a>, I was wary. Thankfully, Brock and his team had a steady hand with their honey pork butter. Sweet with just a little more lip smacking texture than regular butter, it was miles ahead of Batalli and his crock of whipped lard.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Knowing that my visits to Charleston are few and far between, I decided to make the most of this trip to Husk and go completely overboard in ordering by starting with crispy buffalo pig ear lettuce wraps.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8230720341/" title="IMG_4997 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4997" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8483/8230720341_96b539d793.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">It’s interesting to imagine where buffalo pig ear with sweet vinegar marinated cucumber, red onion, and cilantro fits into Brock’s idea of exclusively southern products and ideas. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231782012/" title="IMG_5001 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5001" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8337/8231782012_71b70e14eb.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Regardless of the southern status of this dish, the intensely satisfying crunch of the crisp pig ears dispelled any qualms about its providence.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231782158/" title="IMG_4998 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4998" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8066/8231782158_1511147a90.jpg" width="500" /></a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </div><div class="MsoNormal">As loutish as it may sound, these lettuce wraps, to me, were the best parts of a buffalo chicken wing, the vinegary heat and crunch of freshly fried skin, combined with a distinctly pork flavor. Amazingly, the cucumber, red onion, and cilantro not only compounded the crunch of the pig ear and lettuce, they also provided a tempering effect to the heat of the buffalo sauce in a flavor oddly similar to ranch dressing. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Although it may be a full blown cliché at this point, I still enjoy seeing a restaurant take a new and creative look at an old and decidedly simple dish. In this instance, I’m referring to the HUSK fried cheddar bologna.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231781826/" title="IMG_5002 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5002" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8208/8231781826_8e835a5686.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Even though my grandmother never bothered with the cheese studded variety, I still remember the sizzle of fried bologna when she would cook a quick meal. Of course, she never used a thick, homemade bologna like this.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231781684/" title="IMG_5006 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5006" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8060/8231781684_71684d4361.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Pan fried till smoky and charred on the edges, this bologna was dense and greasy but it had an odd mix of textures. While some bites were silky and delightful, the majority was overcooked and a bit chalky. Any novelty and goodwill this dish may have had quickly faded and I was left with a plate of overcooked emulsified meat.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">If I had to pick one dish as the highlight of meal not to mention the highlight of Charleston, it would have to be the SC shrimp and grits.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231781376/" title="IMG_5012 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5012" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8206/8231781376_0d996a409d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />A distinct departure from the Tabasco dominated flavors of Hominy Grill’s version of the iconic dish, these shrimp were complimented by tomato braised peppers and onions, okra, and surry sausage.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231781510/" title="IMG_5011 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5011" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8067/8231781510_27b636d498.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Each component of this dish was a standout: the Surry sausage carried a good snap to the casing with a flavor similar to un-smoked andouille, the shrimp were perfectly cooked and a bit spicy but well balanced with brininess, and the tomato braised onions and peppers were rich and dense with their inherent flavors.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8230719019/" title="IMG_5014 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5014" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8198/8230719019_9293de8761.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">When combined, this plate of shrimp and grits was a celebration of late summer supported by a warm, sublime taste of tomato. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Hardly a dish unique to the South, it’s still hard to turn down the promise of a well made cheeseburger.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231780672/" title="IMG_5018 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5018" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8489/8231780672_378325f6b1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />If the allure of gratuitously melted cheese isn’t enough to weaken your willpower, patties made with bacon might do the trick.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231780840/" title="IMG_5017 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5017" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8067/8231780840_349c629e8e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Unfortunately, there was a downside to a bacon beef patty, Husk will not serve a burger cooked less than medium rare.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231780228/" title="IMG_5020 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5020" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8487/8231780228_013e31806c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />As you might expect the patties weren’t dripping with juiciness but the smoky flavor of the bacon helped things along. Regarding the other burger components, the buttermilk bread bun was perfectly sized for the patty, a little tangy, and well suited to the overdose of beef and cheese. While I may have had <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2010/04/holeman-finch-publich-house-atlanta.html">better burgers</a>&nbsp;and even a better <a href="http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/02/snackbar-oxford.html">bacon burger</a>, the Husk cheeseburger was still an above average choice.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Simply because a cheeseburger can only be better with a side of potatoes, the Husk cheeseburger came with a side of fried potato wedges.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231780474/" title="IMG_5019 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5019" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8070/8231780474_90a4ae762c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />I’ve never been a fan of potato wedges, preferring the crunch of Belgian style frites over the pillow texture of a wedge, but these potatoes made a good argument for accepting the wedges into the fold. Piping hot and with a fluffy texture, the only downside was a heavy-handed approach with the salt. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">If there’s a better way to test the mettle of a southern restaurant than cornbread, I can’t think of it.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231781002/" title="IMG_5015 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5015" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8057/8231781002_d859917edc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Brock doesn’t pull any punches with his cornbread, made with Benton’s bacon and served in a cast iron skillet, this side has the chops.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8231783066/" title="IMG_5024 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5024" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8069/8231783066_a76dba11ed.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />There’s not much I can say about this cornbread that doesn’t come in the form of praise. From the well seared and golden brown crust to the salty taste and not too crumbly interior, this could well be the poster child for southern cornbread. If there was one downside, I decided that this cornbread didn’t mesh well with the honey pork butter, but that’s no matter, it’s good enough on its own.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Leaving the Queen Street building, I began to think about Sean Brock and Husk’s notoriety. I had wondered if it was all earned or completely overblown. After this lunch, I had little doubt in my mind that Sean Brock is doing something special at Husk. There may have been a cheese studded misstep but on the whole, my meal at Husk was a celebration of southern cuisine (low country in particular) with local and seasonal ingredients. While I feel that a full dinner would have been a better introduction to the Brock’s world of food, any restaurant that makes cornbread that well and makes me crave crispy buffalo pig ears is doing a few things right.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Husk Address &amp; Information<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Husk+Restaurant,+Queen+Street,+Charleston,+SC&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=husk,+charl&amp;hq=Husk+Restaurant,+Queen+Street,+Charleston,+SC&amp;t=m&amp;z=15">76 Queen St. Charleston, SC 29401</a>// 843.577.2500 // <a href="http://www.huskrestaurant.com/">Husk Website</a> // <a href="http://www.huskrestaurant.com/food/menu/">Husk Menu</a> // <a href="http://www.opentable.com/husk-restaurant-reservations-charleston?rid=52987&amp;restref=52987&amp;rtype=ism">Husk Reservations</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/61/1560252/restaurant/Peninsular-Charleston/Husk-Charleston"><img alt="Husk on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1560252/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/11/husk-charleston.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-3961377219469120509Thu, 15 Nov 2012 02:51:00 +00002012-11-14T20:51:13.863-06:00boiled peanutsCharlestonchicken biscuitFried ChickengravypeanutsRestaurant Reviewssausage gravyshrimpshrimp and gritsSouth CarolinaHominy Grill - Charleston<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">There’s certain feeling of elation when you receive a wedding invitation in the mail, particularly when it’s a couple you’ve known since day one. However, happy as I was to be invited to the ceremony, I was equally excited to see their choice of city, Charleston, South Carolina. Some may call it a problem, I simply call it planning ahead but after reserving a hotel room, the first thing I did was begin to research where to eat.&nbsp; </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">While I was researching, I found it hard to believe that is had been four years since I was last in Charleston. In that time, I’ve had little more to do than salivate over the mountains of food press the city has garnered. With Sean Brock of Husk leading the charge of the kitchens and John T. Edge, Garden and Gun, and the food magazines providing the ink, the low-country city has more than secured a reputation as a food lovers’ destination.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Speaking of Husk, while that may have been my first choice for Friday dinner, a 10 pm reservation forced me to keep looking. Scanning through various blogs, chowhound threads, and major magazines, it seemed that if Husk was number one, Hominy Grill was never far behind. While scrolling through YouTube, I found an episode of <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlsuKTebbbM">No Reservations</a> where Bourdain attempted to finish a mountain of biscuit, chicken, and gravy called The Big Nasty.&nbsp; With that my mind was made up; a phone call was made and soon Hominy Grill was my Friday dinner destination.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">If there was one thing I had underestimated it was the time it takes to drive from Kiawah Island to Charleston. It’s not the distance or the speed limit; it’s getting stuck behind a driver who decided that 5 mph below the limit is just too fast for his blood. 45 minutes or so after leaving the island, I was ready for a drink and to see if Hominy Grill could live up to its fame.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">After a short wait and playing audience to a fundamental misunderstanding of the definition of “pescaterian”, I was shown to my table and greeted with a cardboard tray of boiled peanuts.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8186056407/" title="IMG_4968 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4968" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8186056407_4f577efee9.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Even though I’ve never been much of a fan of boiled peanuts, these groundnuts were a fine example of the breed. Served warm, these peanuts were juicy and not too salty. Tender and meaty, there truly was just enough salt to highlight the natural peanut flavor.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Good as the boiled peanuts may have been, I pushed them away in an effort to save room for the two trademark Hominy Grill dishes, the shrimp &amp; grits and The Big Nasty. Unfortunately, there was a bit of a misunderstanding as both dishes appeared at the same time. Forced to choose one to fully enjoy, I started on The Big Nasty and let the shrimp &amp; grits begin to cool.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8187123440/" title="IMG_4974 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4974" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8345/8187123440_3124358b16.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">When presented with a fried chicken breast, cheddar cheese, high-rise biscuit and sausage gravy, it’s hard to know where to begin.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8186057177/" title="IMG_4973 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4973" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8350/8186057177_23273cbceb.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Trying each component on its own, it was the sausage gravy first. Creamy and with each bite carrying a lingering pickled pepper &amp; vinegar tail, there was hot sauce at work with this mix of sausage and gravy.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8187099390/" title="IMG_4975 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4975" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8480/8187099390_d2bb83fb90.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Usually the weak point of any dish, this piece of fried breast meat was juicy and an able player in this dish.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8187099312/" title="IMG_4976 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4976" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8066/8187099312_8a33b9fc9b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />As for the high-rise biscuit, it was a thick, dense, and a bit floury. Nothing too special on its own, it worked quite well with the fried chicken and sausage gravy. All together, this is certainly an above average chicken and biscuit, but I’m not too sure about its status of as a <a href="http://gardenandgun.com/article/50-best-southern-foods-sides-and-such/page/0/1">“50 Best Southern Foods” side dish</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">While I was working on my biscuit and gravy, my waitress had noticed the untouched shrimp &amp; grits. Telling me they were best fresh from the kitchen, she offered to bring me a fresh order when I was finished with The Big Nasty. Once I was done with chicken and biscuit, a fresh order of the house specialty shrimp and grits was brought to my table.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8186056925/" title="IMG_4985 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4985" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8340/8186056925_3ba701bd26.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Piping hot and brimming with shrimp, mushroom, scallions, and bacon, this was what I come to Hominy Grill hoping to find.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8187099124/" title="IMG_4986 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4986" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8066/8187099124_f3a9dc48b6.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">With the cheese grits acting as a canvas for the shrimp and the aromatics, the flavors really had a chance to bloom.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8186056785/" title="IMG_4987 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4987" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8348/8186056785_85fa300021.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Sadly the shrimp were boiling hot and overcooked but when combined with the vinegar laced spiciness of the other components this dish worked decently well.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8186057349/" title="IMG_4988 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4988" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8061/8186057349_3af2a3c079.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Despite the occasional sand vein, I was more concerned with the overwhelming hot sauce flavor. My waitress later revealed the kitchen used Tabasco and judging from the flavor of the dish, they weren’t shy about it.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t disappointed in my meal at Hominy Grill. While I wasn’t expecting a low country epiphany, I wasn’t expecting a dinner presented by McIllheny either. The Big Nasty, for all the hoopla surrounding the biscuit, was surprisingly mundane. Nothing particularly wrong with it but I’d put the Cathead biscuits from Big Bad Breakfast in Oxford to be an equal if not superior choice. As for the shrimp &amp; grits, &nbsp;this version, forgetting the overcooked and sandy shrimp, relied too heavily on the vinegar flavor of Tabasco. With a lunch at Husk to look forward to, I still had hope for this Charleston trip, but Hominy Grill wasn’t getting things off to a good start.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </div><div class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Hominy Grill Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Hominy+Grill,+Rutledge+Avenue,+Charleston,+SC&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=hominy+grill&amp;hq=Hominy+Grill,+Rutledge+Avenue,+Charleston,+SC&amp;t=m&amp;z=15">207 Rutledge Avenue, Charleston,SC 29403</a> // 843.937.0930 // <a href="http://hominygrill.com/">Hominy Grill Website</a> // <a href="http://hominygrill.com/menus/">Hominy Grill Menu</a> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/61/660477/restaurant/Peninsular-Charleston/Hominy-Grill-Charleston"><img alt="Hominy Grill on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/660477/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/11/hominy-grill-charleston.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-2285568171680246275Mon, 05 Nov 2012 03:29:00 +00002012-11-04T21:29:54.106-06:00chickenchipsdowntownFried ChickenJacksonMexicanquesoRestaurant ReviewssalsashrimptacosTex-MexJaco's Tacos - Jackson<br /><div class="MsoNormal">I often wonder what goes into the process of naming a restaurant, particularly when the name includes that of a dish. Does the name imply that that particular dish is the best thing on the menu, did that dish initially help the owner gain notoriety, or is it something as simple as a pleasant rhyme ? While I can think of examples for the first two, Sushi House Hayakawa and Yakitori Jinbei come to mind, I can’t help but think that Jaco’s Tacos fits in the third category. At least that’s my opinion after a few lunches at one of the newest State Street restaurants.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">As you might expect with a “Tex-Mex” restaurant, lunch at Jaco’s Tacos began with chips and salsa.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156179129/" title="IMG_4841 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4841" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8487/8156179129_7427194765.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Thin and sweet, this salsa had touch of cilantro and just enough lingering chili heat to let you know something was there.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156178853/" title="IMG_4844 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4844" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7275/8156178853_6715c39d15.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Where there’s salsa, there’s likely to be queso as well, this version was equipped with the optional chorizo. Tasting remarkably similar to velvetta and rotel, a fair amount of dark, smoky chorizo complimented this dip well.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156210282/" title="IMG_4845 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4845" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8210/8156210282_624cd788e5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />What do you use to enjoy these bowls of queso and salsa? A heaping basket of fried tortilla chips that have been dusted with more of that sweet chili powder, it’s a tried and true combination that delivers here as well.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Before moving to Jaco’s namesake, I wanted to see the only seafood appetizer, the shrimp brochette.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156177465/" title="IMG_4952 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4952" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7126/8156177465_4925662146.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Ideally the bacon would shield the shrimp and a smoky and salty element to the jalapeno mango cheese filling; in practice, things didn’t work as planned.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156209038/" title="IMG_4955 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4955" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7253/8156209038_ec6644d767.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Even with bacon wrappings and sweet and spicy fillings, it’s hard to completely cover overdone, chalky shrimp. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">It was then time for Jaco’s raison d’être, the tacos, starting with a combination plate of grilled steak and Mojave pork.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156210054/" title="IMG_4847 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4847" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8069/8156210054_3c92f19a10.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Pico de gallo, onions, a handful of cheese, these tacos arrived completely dressed with the usual toppings but I did miss the fresh avocado slices you get from Taqueria la Guadalupe.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156209802/" title="IMG_4848 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4848" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8201/8156209802_885068dc15.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />While there was a fair amount of nicely charred steak on this taco, it was fairly dry on its own, but when combined with the condiments, it became a well-seasoned base for the taco.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156209532/" title="IMG_4849 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4849" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8156209532_ab94464a8a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />If there was a surprise in the tacos, it was the sweetness of the Mojave pork, but much like the steak tacos, when combined with the pico de gallo and other toppings, things worked decently together.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The two chicken tacos were more of a mixed bag.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156176925/" title="IMG_4957 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4957" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8338/8156176925_b1ac370c30.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Before, the meats had been lackluster on their own but played well with the toppings, but with the chicken even the best meats couldn’t stand up the abundance of heavy toppings.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156208054/" title="IMG_4964 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4964" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7122/8156208054_3dd91a7d9e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />The biggest loss on this plate was the grilled chicken as this was one of the few instances where breast meat was juicy and boldly seasoned. However, any chance the chicken had to save this taco was crushed by a mountain of onion and cheese.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156176585/" title="IMG_4960 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4960" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8206/8156176585_022dfc2298.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Taco number two was a different story. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8156176343/" title="IMG_4963 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4963" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8199/8156176343_4ee8705bd5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />With a thick, clumpy, and unseasoned batter, this fried chicken made the thick tortillas a doughy and unappetizing mess. Even scrapping off the toppings, every bite of this taco was onions, cheese, and dough, but if there is one upside, at least the chicken wasn’t dry.</div><div class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </div><div class="MsoNormal">After two separate encounters, it seems that Jaco’s Tacos is just another entry into the list of Tex-Mex restaurants in Jackson. If you want a place for margaritas and cheese topped banality downtown, Jaco’s Taco is your place, but for a decent taco my money is on the local taquerias.<br /><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Jaco’s Tacos Address &amp; Information<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=318+South+State+Street,+Jackson,+MS&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.385845,-90.211496&amp;sspn=0.394873,0.727158&amp;oq=318+south+sta+jackson+ms&amp;hnear=318+S+State+St,+Jackson,+Mississippi+39201&amp;t=m&amp;z=16">318 S State St. Jackson,MS 39201</a> // 601.961.7001 // <a href="http://jacostacos.com/">Jaco’s Tacos Website</a> // <a href="http://jacostacos.com/menu-1jacos-tacos-menu-3/">Jaco’s Tacos Menu</a><o:p></o:p></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/176/1654928/restaurant/Jacos-Tacos-Jackson"><img alt="Jaco's Tacos on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1654928/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/11/jacos-tacos-jackson.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-7906361812852540231Mon, 22 Oct 2012 03:37:00 +00002012-10-21T22:37:03.069-05:00AtlantaDuluthhot potkoreanRestaurant ReviewsShabu shabutripeShabu & Shabu - Atlanta<br /><div class="MsoNormal">It’s not often that I get the opportunity to head to Duluth for a meal. Typically, after my 400 mile drive east, Jennifer will say the drive from Buckhead to Duluth is simply too far and too taxing. The result is many of Atlanta’s Korean and Chinese restaurants slip out of my grasp. However, after driving back from Charleston, Jennifer acquiesced to a long distance dinner, but the question was where to go? In what has become a running joke, I first suggested Honey Pig, but I decided something else was in order. Remembering a <a href="http://www.chowdownatlanta.com/shabu-n-shabu-duluth/">review</a>&nbsp;from Chloe Morris of <a href="http://www.chowdownatlanta.com/">Chow Down Atlanta </a>, I suggested that we give Korean hot pot a go. Sacrificing her time and comfort, Jennifer agreed and we began the drive to Pleasant Hill Road in Duluth.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;Sadly, even with Morris’ review, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect when we pulled into Shabu &amp; Shabu. Prior to this meal, my sole experience with Korean hot pot came from a recipe for <a href="http://crazykoreancooking.com/recipe/korean-style-beef-hot-pot-beef-shabu-shabu">sogogi shabu shabu</a>&nbsp;from <a href="http://crazykoreancooking.com/">Crazy Korean Cooking</a>; fiery red and potent, that shabu shabu was a distinct departure from the usual Japanese style. &nbsp;Regardless, on a chilly and rainy night like that Sunday, any type of hot pot was welcome.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">After we were shown to a booth with a privacy curtain, it was soon a matter of where to begin. Even with individual pots of broth, we decided to try a little bit of everything and that started with a plate of vegetables.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8109990114/" title="IMG_5027 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5027" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8048/8109990114_9ef5fe6d28.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />There seemed to be a little bit of everything here, tofu, rehydrated shiitake mushroom, egg, enoki mushroom, kabocha squash, fish cake, corn, bean sprouts, etc, but what really confused us was the addition of a hot dog. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8109979555/" title="IMG_5029 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5029" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8052/8109979555_2d1d0d21b4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Nestled between the enoki mushroom and the greens was a half of a hot dog. Maybe Shabu &amp; Shabu decided the vegetable plate needed a little emulsified meat, your guess is as good as mine.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Healthy bits and hot dogs aside, it was a little bit of everything when it came to the meats.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8109990398/" title="IMG_5041 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5041" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8473/8109990398_cd9aaff170.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Pork, chicken, beef, seafood, and even an extra plate of tripe, it was far too much for two people but we were feeling ambitious.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8109988094/" title="IMG_5040 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5040" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8468/8109988094_6ddec03c4d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />The seafood was a particular standout and as soon as it arrived I was trying to think of an elegant way to eat the whole baby octopus.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">When it actually came to cooking our proteins and vegetables, we were each armed with a small pot of broth.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8109978235/" title="IMG_5037 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5037" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8467/8109978235_9b86ac9aed.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />I’m guessing it was some combination of dashi and mirin, regardless it was well suited to everything on the table.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">One thing Chloe had been particular about was the sauce and at Shabu &amp; Shabu, they will tailor the dipping sauce to your heat tolerance. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8109979259/" title="IMG_5031 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5031" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8189/8109979259_7f25ba611f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />This medium sauce it was pleasant combination of ponzu, sesame sauce, chili sauce, and scallions.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8109978947/" title="IMG_5033 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5033" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8046/8109978947_32ff796a00.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Our waiter didn’t believe me when I asked for the extra hot sauce, but they soon brought me a bowl brimming with diced Thai hot peppers.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8109978645/" title="IMG_5034 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_5034" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8335/8109978645_c048978568.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />After a quick mix I was ready to start cooking.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">When the picking, swishing, dipping, and slurping was finished, there was still plenty of tripe and a few vegetables left. Nothing against the tripe, but when I’m made to choose between meat, hand pulled noodles, or tripe, the third choice looses every time. While the empty plates can attest to the quality, if there is one downside to Shabu &amp; Shabu, it’s the location. Were they closer to Buckhead, I would insist on a visit every time I made it to Atlanta. &nbsp;However, even with the drive to Duluth, the service, the food, and that nasal clearing extra hot dipping sauce makes it all worthwhile.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Shabu &amp; Shabu Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=2605+Pleasant+Hill+Rd.+Ste+300+Duluth,+GA+30096&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=33.961315,-84.132068&amp;sspn=0.09696,0.181789&amp;hnear=2605+Pleasant+Hill+Rd+%23300,+Duluth,+Gwinnett,+Georgia+30096&amp;t=m&amp;z=16">2605 Pleasant Hill Rd. Ste 300 Duluth, GA 30096 </a>// 678.584.1111</div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/9/1682119/restaurant/Atlanta/Gwinnett-Place-Duluth/Shabu-Shabu-Duluth"><img alt="Shabu &amp; Shabu on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/1682119/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/10/shabu-shabu-atlanta.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-7386974527283908224Mon, 15 Oct 2012 02:24:00 +00002012-10-14T21:24:28.417-05:00char suichicken feetdim sumDumplingsLas VegasNevadaRestaurant ReviewsOrchids Garden - Las Vegas<br /><div class="MsoNormal">It was Sunday morning in Las Vegas and though I was still recovering from a pool cabana bar tab and a lackluster dinner at Carnevino, I was bound and determined to see my friend Michael before my flight back east.&nbsp; Of course, there are few better ways to catch up with an old friend than over a fine meal, but I was still unsure about where this meal would take place. Tempted by the idea of all things Keller, I had suggested Bouchon Bistro for brunch, but, as if by instinct, I cancelled that idea and decided it was dim sum or nothing. I suppose the family habit of seeking out dim sum when it is available is as strong as ever; that aside, it was still a matter of where to go.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Despite being a newly minted Vegas homeowner, Michael wasn’t up to date on the latest and greatest in Las Vegas dim sum. In fact, aside from a meal at Ping Pang Pong three years ago, he had only enjoyed the Chinese tradition once. However, that one time,&nbsp; had been &nbsp;at a restaurant named Orchids Garden and was, in his opinion, a fine meal so after picking me up from the hotel, we were off to Orchids Garden for the first wave of Sunday dim sum. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Arriving just as the restaurant opened, the carts seemed to trickle out of the kitchen, but it wasn’t long before out table was full of plates and steamer baskets. One of the first plates was an order of shrimp dumplings.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088720729/" title="IMG_4923 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4923" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8048/8088720729_131698a7af.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Still crisp from the fryer and not too greasy, these dumplings had a big and juicy shrimp filling.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">They say you can judge a restaurant by its har gow.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088720103/" title="IMG_4925 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4925" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8324/8088720103_2175ecbe30.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">In that case, Orchids Garden may very well receive a failing grade.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088719797/" title="IMG_4926 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4926" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8048/8088719797_10242e1119.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">From the thick, doughy, and hardly translucent wrapper to the meager shrimp filling, there weren’t many redeeming qualities to these har gow. While each bite of these dumplings was a mouthful of wrapper, the shrimp that were present were decently briny even if they were missing the usual crunch of bamboo shoots.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Most dim sum outings, I’ll skip the sugar cane and shrimp paste, but I decided to indulge at Orchids Garden.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088720965/" title="IMG_4922 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4922" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8331/8088720965_8f53735747.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">As you might expect, this shrimp paste had a tinge of sweetness.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088719515/" title="IMG_4928 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4928" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8468/8088719515_a83e267d49.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />When combined with a well-cooked exterior and the natural flavor of shrimp, the sugar cane was a fine choice.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">A constant component of any dim sum meal, the bell pepper shrimp were a welcome addition.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088720504/" title="IMG_4924 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4924" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/8088720504_ff9f147f56.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Far too often, I’ll find pepper shrimp that have been on the cart for too long with cold shrimp and limp peppers to show for it. These pepper shrimp were quite the opposite. A crispy snap of bell pepper, the crunch of seared shrimp paste, and a sweet sauce made for a satisfying example of the dish.<br /><!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br /><!--[endif]--></div><div class="MsoNormal">Often labeled as seen juk guen, Orchids Garden calls the next dish bean curd skin rolls.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088719091/" title="IMG_4929 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4929" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8468/8088719091_8aacac944e.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Always on the messy side, this bean curd skin rolls are almost always worth the effort but Orchids Garden prepared theirs a little differently.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088718952/" title="IMG_4930 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4930" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8185/8088718952_ef5419d03b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Instead of the usual mélange of pork, shrimp, and vegetables, this roll was completely filled with pork, large chunks of juicy, silky, and incredibly meaty pork.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">There’s not much more than meets the eye with Orchids Garden’s pork balls.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088718718/" title="IMG_4931 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4931" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8187/8088718718_4f5d14f3d7.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Little more than two massive pork meatballs in a black mushroom broth, this dish showed just how well pork and mushrooms work together.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Usually one of the first dumplings out of the kitchen, I was surprised it took the siu mai so long to arrive.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088718353/" title="IMG_4932 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4932" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8188/8088718353_94ec9336d7.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">If there’s one trend I noticed at Orchids Garden, it’s a propensity for big cuts of meat in every dish. Instead of finely minced pork, these siu mai were filled with large, greasy yet savory cuts of pork and topped with a tiny bit of carrot for contrast.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Typically, I steer clear of pork buns in a restaurant, not because I have anything against the combination of sweet dough and well-cooked char sui but because they are so filling but when Michael expressed an interest, it was one order for the table.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088718093/" title="IMG_4934 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4934" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8323/8088718093_d98bbacb22.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Glistening in the light, these baked bbq pork buns were incredibly sticky so much so that they were held fast to my hand when held upside down. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088717809/" title="IMG_4936 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4936" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8474/8088717809_27c515a9ee.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Inside the sugary wrapper was a filling that I can best describe as sweet custard mixed with char sui. As delightful as this pork bun was, maybe I should order them more often.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">In the world of dim sum, beef is a relatively small player so I was surprised to see these short ribs on a cart.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088717507/" title="IMG_4937 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4937" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8333/8088717507_58efa030c3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Greasy to the touch, it was sheer beef flavor that saved these short ribs.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088717245/" title="IMG_4938 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4938" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8191/8088717245_aab516c5b3.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;Of course, a healthy black pepper punctuation helped a bit.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Pan fried chives dumplings are always a treat, especially when still crisp from the kitchen<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088716993/" title="IMG_4939 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4939" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8326/8088716993_8bf83af237.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Once again a well-seared crust gave way to a filling of large, juicy pork pieces but this time each bite was riddled with the oniony bite of chives.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Fung Jao, chicken feet, call it what you want, these appendages have a polarizing effect on people. Luckily, Michael is willing to try anything even an order of three giant chicken feet. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088716864/" title="IMG_4940 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4940" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8049/8088716864_1e4717a1b1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Almost too hot to heat, these chicken feet were sweet and gelatinous. I kept hoping to find a slice of chili pepper to tame the sweetness but no such luck.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Hoping to end the meal on a more approachable note, the last dish was an order of steamed pork spareribs.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8088721231/" title="IMG_4941 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4941" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8187/8088721231_3a4dd13835.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />More often than not, these spare ribs are more fat and bone than meat, but Orchid Garden once again errs on the side of meatiness. With plenty of meat to each rib, it was just a matter of enjoying the flavor of fermented black beans, pork, and the unusual addition of sweet potatoes.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">If there’s one glaring trend at Orchids Garden, it’s that finesse and moderation are not a priority.&nbsp; From the siu mai, to the bean curd skin rolls to the chicken feet, big and meaty cuts were the name of the game and for the most part, it worked.&nbsp; &nbsp;Oddly enough when it came to the typical dim sum litmus test, Orchids Garden failed spectacularly, but every other dish was satisfying if a bit too greasy.&nbsp; With the bill paid and hotel checkout looming, Michael and I both agreed that Orchids Garden offered a perfectly fine dim sum even if it does come across a bit ham handed at times.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Orchids Garden Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Orchids+Garden,+West+Sahara+Avenue,+Las+Vegas,+NV&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=orchids+garden&amp;hq=Orchids+Garden,&amp;hnear=W+Sahara+Ave,+Las+Vegas,+Nevada&amp;t=m&amp;z=14">5485 West Sahara Ave. Las Vegas, NV 89146</a> // 702.631.3839<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=9041844699195170850" name="_GoBack"></a> </div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/18/222478/restaurant/West-Side/Orchids-Garden-Las-Vegas"><img alt="Orchids Garden on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/222478/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/10/orchids-garden-las-vegas.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9041844699195170850.post-1032214693355504847Mon, 08 Oct 2012 03:13:00 +00002012-10-07T22:13:17.009-05:00dry agedJoe BastianichLas VegasMario BataliNevadaravioliRestaurant ReviewsRibeyesirloinSteaksteakhouseCarnevino - Las Vegas<br /><div class="MsoNormal">Allow me to paint the scenario. After a three year hiatus, I had once again touched down at McCarran International Airport and arrived in the grand city of Las Vegas. However this&nbsp;wasn't&nbsp;a casual visit to the pacific time zone, I was in town for the ever clichéd but near sacred rite of passage known as the bachelor party. Who else was attending this occasion? Months of planning and a flurry of last minute cancellations had trimmed the group to a svelte six members, all fraternity brothers. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Interestingly, I had been charged with choosing a location for the grand Saturday night dinner. Almost immediately I looked to the Michelin guide and I was heartbroken to hear that both Joel Robuchon and the Atelier would be closed for renovations and summer holidays. Turning to the next best thing, I made reservations at 2 and 1 star establishments such as Picasso and Michael Mina as well as a few steakhouses. Waiting to the very last minute, I ultimately decided that Michelin star finery might be a bit much for a bachelor party. In the end, it was the allure of six to eight month dry aged reserva beef that made me choose Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich’s Carnevino for our grand dinner. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">After an alcohol fueled day at the pool, our motley group had showered, sobered up, and dressed for the occasion. A short cab ride later, we made the trek through the Palazzo casino floor and arrived at the entrance to Carnevino. Once we were seated in our semiprivate, curtained room, it was time to get down to the business of steak.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">However, before any cut of beef would make an appearance, I decided that a pasta appetizer was in order.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8065288838/" title="IMG_1974 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1974" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8319/8065288838_7cffa3ddc4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />If there has been one recurring theme in every Carnevino review that I’ve read, it’s been that the food is rich and this ricotta and egg ravioli in brown butter was no exception.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8065288027/" title="IMG_1975 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1975" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8171/8065288027_a3e74ec56b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Topped with fried sage, &nbsp;this pasta was deep brown on the edges and nearly swimming in a staggering amount of nutty browned butter.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8065287129/" title="IMG_1976 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1976" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8436/8065287129_25429e0abf.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />From the first bite, I was looking for an acid to cut through the richness of butter and ricotta but then I came across the egg yolk. Some might say this three pronged attack of cheese, butter, and yolk was too much and they would be right, but it paled in comparison to what was next.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Typically the combination of bread and butter is the first thing on the table, but after an hour and three separate requests, the beginning of the meal arrived.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8065286317/" title="IMG_1978 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1978" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8170/8065286317_3354f36fc6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />On one hand was a perfectly delightful dinner roll complete with a nicely developed flavor and a good crust.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8065285804/" title="IMG_1979 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1979" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8461/8065285804_de09488b91.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />On the other was little more than a monument to excess, a duo of whipped butter and whipped lard.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8065284665/" title="IMG_1980 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1980" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8032/8065284665_bd15f7ddd4.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />From pie crusts to fried chicken to carnitas, I’ve enjoyed lard in many forms but, as far as I can remember, this was the first time I have seen it served as an equal to butter. While it did melt beautifully in the hot roll and each bite was tinged with a delightful hint of pork, it was all too much of a good thing. In my mind, this sort of fat is best savored like lardo, served sparingly and used to provide a little silkiness for something like a charcuterie platter. In this instance it was simply lard for the sake of lard, and it was far too much.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">But that’s enough about pasta and lard, it was time for steaks to arrive, starting with a ribeye.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8065283841/" title="IMG_1983 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1983" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8040/8065283841_155fa4d15d.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />Having requested medium rare +, I was a little surprised to see that Carnevino took a more black and blue approach. Little matter as this dry aged steak was still deeply charred, a bit too salty, and lightly flavored with rosemary on the outside while the interior was tender and quite beefy. While there wasn’t much un-melted intramuscular fat, I would have preferred the steak to be a little closer to medium. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">However the ribeye was an opening act to the main attraction, two inches of reserva sirloin. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8065283286/" title="IMG_1984 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1984" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8172/8065283286_09d17126d7.jpg" width="375" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">With the beef fat glistening in the light, it was plain to see that this was steak unlike any I had previously encountered.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8065282470/" title="IMG_1986 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1986" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8031/8065282470_fa412273b9.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />Large enough for everyone to have at least one piece, I was shocked at the initial flavor. Deep, salty, and a bit musty, it reminded me of mushrooms and a cross between salty genoa salami and a full flavored steak.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cynicalcook/8065289537/" title="IMG_1988 by Cynical Cook, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_1988" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8180/8065289537_9b165aa22c.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />Others in our party weren’t particularly impressed, with one comment about the reserva’s similarity to tar being quite memorable. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Despite the reserva sirloin and the bit too rare ribeye, I would have called Carnevino an entirely too rich yet unique meal and be done with it, but that would leave so much unsaid. Although I rarely mention service in these write-ups, the waitstaff at Carnevino left much to be desired. Outside of a very accommodating sommelier, it was an evening of missing dishes, overcooked but quickly replaced steaks, and general inattentiveness. I understand that a waiter may not want to dote on a group of six guys, especially with the tip already built in from the group size, but I expected better from what some publications call the best steakhouse in Las Vegas. Sadly, I don’t make it to Vegas as often as I should but the next time I catch a Delta flight out west, I can be certain that dinner at Carnevino will not be on the itinerary. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Carnevino Address &amp; Information</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=CarneVino+Italian+Steakhouse,+Las+Vegas+Boulevard+South,+Las+Vegas,+NV&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=32.571103,-89.876448&amp;sspn=6.302546,11.634521&amp;oq=carnevino&amp;hq=CarneVino+Italian+Steakhouse,+Las+Vegas+Boulevard+South,+Las+Vegas,+NV&amp;t=m&amp;z=15">Palazzo Hotel 3325 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Las Vegas, NV89109</a> // 702.789.4141 // <a href="http://www.carnevino.com/">Carnevino Website </a>// <a href="http://www.carnevino.com/dinner.cfm">Carnevino Menu</a> // <a href="http://www.opentable.com/carnevino-italian-steakhouse-palazzo-hotel-reservations-las-vegas?rid=19060&amp;restref=19060">CarnevinoReservations</a></div><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/18/335090/restaurant/The-Strip/Carnevino-Las-Vegas"><img alt="Carnevino on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/link/335090/minilink.gif" style="border: none; height: 36px; padding: 0px; width: 130px;" /></a>http://www.cynicalcook.com/2012/10/carnevino-las-vegas.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Cynical Cook)0