Unveiled at the Summer Dealer Meeting on August 18th, the new Harley-Davidson Combination Digital Speedometer/Analog Tachometer (P/N 70900100B , $314.95) from Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories replaces the Original Equipment speedometer and adds a convenient tachometer to 2014 Sportster® models. This instrument has a spun aluminum dial, mounts in the stock location and is a direct plug-in installation.

he backlit gauges include a sweeping tachometer needle, an easy-to-read digital speedometer, and a LCD (liquid crystal display) information screen that scrolls to display odometer/tripmeter data, miles-to-empty readings, an easy-to-read segmented fuel display, a gear position indicator and a clock.

The push-button adjustable backlighting offers more than 600 color tone options, allowing the rider to adjust pointer, LCD and backlighting colors to match any paint scheme or viewing preference. The digital speedometer can be toggled between MPH and km/h to simplify cross-border travel. This instrument fits all 2014 Harley-Davidson Sportster models, 2012-later Street Bob® and Wide Glide® models, and 2011-later Softail® Rocker™ C, Blackline® and Breakout® models with a four-inch speedometer.

Why would you want a tachometer on a Sportster? It’s no Porsche. It’s easier to shift the Sportster on the “tens” (22, 30, 40, 50). Two eyeballs reading a sweep-needle, and traffic, and that’s the maximum multi-tasking two eyeballs + a brain can handle.

So, now unless you drive solely by the tach needle, you’ll need to peer beyond the needle and into the face to read the speed, then wait-a minute, what gear are you in?, another glance at the dial-face to check that out, and…..look-out for that curb pull-away….screech….brorrrk…crash…splinter, tinkle.

The handlebar clamp area is different on Sportster’s with pull-back (risers) handlebars.

Shown, is the top tree clamp for a Sportster with mini-ape handlebars, like mine.

If a gadget has to be made for this handlebar clamp, then make a magnetic digital clock, with (3) linear grooves on the bottom of the base, that match the existing (3) embossed linear lines on the clamp to help lock the clock in place. The clock base would only cover the (3) embossed lines, and since the lines are individually tapered, it would lend itself to a “soft wing” design of the clock body.

This way, a rider can keep track of his/her appointments while on the road. Running late? Then you’ll know when it’s time to start lane-splitting, to make it to your destination as planned.

Back in 1990 I ended up in storm that had closed the highway i was on but some how i got on to it.
The wind was that strong i could not hear my loud 1989 FXR Low Rider.
I then realised i changed gear by noise..Tried by speedo but was not so good so started using the Tacho which the low rider had.Very weird feeling and being on a rubber mounted bike did not help.

Funny how caravans and trucks might be being blown over ,yet you will still see some stupid dumb biker trying to ride through it.
I was allot younger then……

The last parting shot. The reason that a 30-T drive sprocket works (other-worldly) better for highway cruising and city stop-and-go driving is because 1st gear is fully synchronized and can be downshift seamlessly at 10 mph. Big difference. Huge difference.

1st gear is fully synchronized and can be downshift seamlessly at 10 mph.
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That’s actually 20 mph, so when you release the clutch downshifted to 1st, it’s either a seamless transition to the motor’s existing rpm, or you often have to immediately increase the throttle to maintain the same rpm.
It feels more like downshifting to 2nd gear, so you’re not going to be pitched over the handlebars downshifting to 1st gear at 20 mph.