knitting gauges, weaving setts and other properties of our yarns

Richard Lawn 14 02 2007 3:16 pm

All of our yarns are listed with their NM number to describe their yardage. This number states how many metres of yarn will come from 1 gram weight, so for example a single ply 1/28 yarn will give 28 metres per gram whilst 2/28s we will give half that (because it is twice as thick). The table below gives the yardage, needle sizes and stitches per inch. All this info came from customers (thanks to them!) and obviously there is a range depending on personal preference.

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ColourMart Weight

NM (or Tex)

Yards per 150g cone (approx)

Needle size, stocking stitch

Needle size, lace

US Crochet hook size

Gauge (4"/10cm)

Similar yarn suggestion

lace

1/14 or 2/28 (or 70 Tex )

2,300

Many people use several strands of this together for hand knitting

US 2-5, 2.5-3.75mm, old UK 12-9

8 or 9

32 - 36

-

heavy lace

3/28

1,550

Many people use 2 or 3 strands of this together for hand knitting

US 4-6, 2.75-3.25mm, old UK 10-8

30 - 34

-

4 ply

2/14 (or 140 Tex )

1,150

US 0-1, 2-2.75mm, old UK 14-12

US 5-7, 3.75-4.5mm, old UK 9-7

B/1

28 - 32

-

fingering

3/14 (or 50/140 Tex)

770

US 3-5, 3-3.75mm, old UK 11-9

US 8-9, 5.5-6mm, old UK 6-4

C/2

24 - 28

-

doubleknit (dk)

4/14 (or 140/140 Tex)

570

US 5-6, 3.75-4mm, old UK 9-8

-

D/3

20 - 24

-

aran

8/14

285

US 7-8, 4.5-5mm, old UK 7-6

-

-

-

-

chunky

12/14

190

US 8-10, 5-6mm, old UK 6-4

-

-

-

-

Roughly, 300-350g of the laceweight or 4ply should make a pullover and 700g should be enough for a twinset - thicker yarns will need extra weight for the same garment so for example a dk weight pullover might need 500g. Amounts below 200g are better for scarves, gloves, baby clothes etc.

We would always suggest experimenting with a swatch first. In particular this yarn is made up for industrial knitting, which means it is still lightly oiled as sold so it fluffs up considerably after a gentle hand or machien wash. Normally you would wash the garment after completion but the difference this makes means it is also a good idea to wash your test swatch in the same manner you plan for the garment to see the final effect. Another reason for trying a swatch is if you are knitting the singles yarns (eg 1/14 Nm as opposed to 2/28Nm, same thickness but first is a singles yarn) you should expect some bias effects from the unbalanced twist. These yarns are produced for knitting, even the singles, so the effect is mild but should be checked.

Most customers use the 1/14s or 2/28s for machine knitting, hand-knitters either buy the thicker yarns or wind strands of 2/28s together themselves.

This yarn is stronger than most cashmere and does not have a great deal of elasticity, so it is recommended that all ribs are knitted tightly or they will stretch in wear.