2000s Recipes + Menus

Steam-Braised Chicken and Black Mushrooms

Serves4

Active time:30 min

Start to finish:2 1/4 hr

March 2009

Wrapping chicken, mushrooms, and leeks in parchment paper and steaming them gently for a couple of hours—a technique that food editor Ian Knauer learned in Mexico—results in intensely flavored meat that literally falls off the bone at the nudge of a fork. The method also creates a wonderful broth that gains umami from soy sauce, as well as from the dried black mushrooms (left over from Short Rib and Vegetable Stew) and their soaking liquid. A curl of orange zest tucked inside the package gives the dish a fragrant brightness. Despite the ingredients, this dish doesn’t taste Asian—its comforting flavors are essentially universal. Serve it over rice or noodles.

4dried black mushrooms

2cupswater

2medium leeks (white and pale green parts only)

2tablespoonsunsalted butter

1teaspoonsoy sauce

4whole chicken legs

4(2- by 1/2-inch) strips orange zest

Equipment:

kitchen string

Accompaniment:

orange wedges

Bring mushrooms and water to a boil in a small saucepan, then remove from heat and let soak, covered, 20 minutes. Squeeze water from mushrooms through a paper-towel-lined sieve back into saucepan, reserving liquid. Discard stems, then slice mushroom caps.

Chop leeks, then wash see (see Tips). Heat butter in a 10-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until foam subsides, then sauté leeks with 1/2 tsp salt until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add mushrooms and soaking liquid and boil until most of liquid has evaporated. Stir in soy sauce and remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper.

Season chicken with 3/4 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp pepper. Place 1 chicken leg in center of a double layer of parchment paper (about 20 by 15 inches), then cover with 1/4 cup mushroom mixture and top with zest strip. Gather parchment up around chicken and tie tightly with kitchen string. Make 3 more packages in same manner.

Steam packages in a steamer rack (such as a pasta-pot insert) set 3 to 4 inches above boiling water, covered tightly, until chicken is very tender and starting to fall off the bone, 1 3/4 to 2 hours (replenish water as necessary).

Carefully transfer each package to a shallow bowl. Remove string and slowly slide parchment out from underneath chicken and broth. Season with salt.