How to Cut Hair in a Layered Bob

Bobs are one of the most popular hairstyles of today. They can give a fuller appearance to fine hair and are a stylish option for women who want to make a drastic change to longer hairstyles. Adding layers to a bob gives it volume, texture and shape and by using a razor you can achieve a more edgy, modern look. Style a bob using flat irons and a little hair wax scrunched into the ends.

Cut the Basic Bob

Shampoo and condition the client's hair and lightly towel dry before combing thoroughly.

Part the hair in a center parting using a rat-tail comb, then create a triangular section at the back of the head by running the point of the comb from the end of the center parting down to the right and left points of the lower hairline at the nape of the neck. Clip the rest of the hair out of the way.

Comb an inch-wide section in the middle of the triangle straight down with one hand and grasp the section of hair between the two forefingers of your other hand just above the desired length of the bob, keeping your fingers straight horizontally.

Cut a straight line directly beneath your fingers to create an inch-wide section that will act as a length guide for the rest of the hair.

Comb and cut sections of the triangle from either side of the first cut with slight overlaps into the cut sections to ensure all the ends are level. Comb straight down through the whole section and stop just before the ends to use the horizontal comb as a guide to see if the ends are straight. Snip away any long or uneven ends.

Unclip the rest of the hair. Run the rat tail comb from the end of the center parting to a point an inch above the ends of the original triangle parting on either side of your client's neck to expand the triangle out sideways. Clip the rest of the hair up again.

Comb the added hair down and cut in small sections, using the first section as a length guide.

Repeat steps 7 and 8 until the whole of the back of the client's hair is cut in a straight blunt line and there is a parting running straight over the back of the head from ear to ear, perpendicular to the center parting.

Unclip the hair from the right hand side of the client's head and comb it straight down.

Comb an inch-wide section of hair from the back of the center parting that includes around a quarter-inch of cut hair from the back section and the rest uncut hair from the right-hand section.

Cut straight across in the same manner as before, using the cut hair as a length guide.

Cut the rest of the right hand section in this fashion, following the cut line round to the front. Repeat this process on the left until all the client's hair has been cut into an even, blunt bob of the desired length. Leave any bangs until the end.

Layer the Bob

Place the point of the rat-tail comb on the end of the center parting then run it straight down the sides of your client's head to behind her ears on either side. Clip the right and left sections forward out of the way to leave the back section free.

Comb a half-inch vertical section straight out from the client's head from the left-hand parting of the back section with one hand.

Pinch the ends of this section vertically between the two forefingers of your other hand with your palm facing you.

Place the blade of a hairdressing razor on the top hairs of the section a couple of inches from your fingers, then gently run it down towards the ends of the hair in small strokes. Allow the top strands of hair to fall away from your fingers as they are razored to leave just the long bottom strands between them. This will create a tapered point with the top strands of hair being the shortest and the hair underneath getting gradually longer.

Comb another vertical section just to the right of the first and repeat the razoring process. Work your way around the rest of the back section, then unclip the side sections and layer them in the same way. Razor swiftly to avoid creating uniform layers and to give movement to the style.

Finish the Cut

Comb and dry the hair into the client's natural style.

Run your fingers through the hair at the same points on opposite sides of the client's head to check that the length is even, particularly at the front. Razor away any uneven ends.

Trim the client's bangs if she has any. Comb them down in the same angle as the cut will be (e.g. straight for straight bangs) and stop at the desired length. Snip away any hair longer than where the comb rests.

References

About the Author

Nikola Goddard has been writing since 2009. Her how-to and self-help articles center around health, fitness and green living and appear on various online publications. Goddard studied English literature at Beckfoot Grammar School. She is now pursuing a career as a freelance writer and has several blogs specializing in weight loss.