Yeah that is something like I was thinking in option 4. So basically a piece cut in the correct curve that blends into the top edge strip, but lies proud of the sides. Say approximately 1 or 2 inches wide.

DrBryanJ wrote:You could fill in the gap and cover the side with a cherry veneer

Hi Bryan,

Actually I thought about that this morning as well. Seems a shame since the side has already been veneered with cherry, but there are a few other issues with the existing side panels that would be covered up.

I am considering this option now but need to address three concerns before going forward with it. The first is the extra cost. Not really an issue as I can afford it, just bothers me a bit. Second concern is what to do about the forward edge where the side panel meets to front face. A veneer will be proud of the surface at the corner.

I can address this in two different ways. One is to cut a thin rabbet for the veneer and then bond it down into the rabbet at that edge. The second option would be to apply some sort of trim piece on the side to cover the veneer.

The third concern I have is getting even pressure over the entire surface of the side panel when veneering. Normally I would do this by setting the panel on the floor and applying cinder block weights across it, but since the cabinet is already assembled, this would be more difficult. Using a vacuum bag is an option but that involves quite a bit of expense since I do not have the equipment to do this.

Carl… I veneered a lot of pieces on my Gentry interior. I used the same method for gluing as I did for applying the side planking to the hull. I used a pneumatic stapler and stapled through a rope. Once dry, pull the rope and usually one leg of each staple will come out. I grab that leg with pliers and pull straight out without prying against the veneer. You can wet the staple holes or just leave them.. They seem to disappear on their own, or maybe they are there but so small that you don't notice them.

Carl: When Lisa and I were engaged, I had her a hope chest that I veneered in cherry. The material was thin and applied with contact cement. I used a heavy roller to attach pieces. Similar to when applying formica laminate. I have also used the heat activated, but had a few problems with it.

Do you have any more edge strip? How about lowering the curve of the cabinet side indexed off the low point and then place the doubled or tripled laminated edge to bring the finish side back to the original height? I would probably put in a reverse curve, like the shovel of a ski?

Thanks for the additional input Bryan, Tom, and Billy. This is good additional info to consider. I've been somewhat busy for the last couple of days but I am considering all these approaches. Thanks again everyone.

Okay, after thinking on this for a few days, taking into consideration the various ideas presented here ( thanks everyone! ), I think I have a plan for fixing the cabinet.

I considered laminating the entire side with a veneer (I would have to do both sides of the cabinet) but this has the disadvantage of having to buy additional veneers, would require a shallow rabbet on the forward edge to blend the veneer in, and I am unsure how well the iron on veneer process would work.

I considered Tom's approach of cutting down the wing to the lowest point of the curve and then building it back up with extra end caps, however this would still have a problem at the fiddle end because I could not overlap the end cap strips onto the top of the fiddle.

I considered patching in a larger piece and then repairing it that way but that left ugly seam lines and would have required purchasing additional Cherry.

I considered Billy's idea of cutting off the wings, making new ones and then capping the sides with the new wings. Oddly enough, I initially dismissed this idea out of hand because of the horizontal seam that would have been left on the sides, but after some more thought on it, I decided that a variation of this approach would work.

SO after all of that, here's what I am going to do. I am first going to build up the gap between the edge strip and the existing wing. This will be done without the edge strip in place. Then I will reshape the wings to the correct profile. Next using veneer that I currently have, I will veneer just the wings, (inside and outside surfaces) to hide the built up gap. Then I am going to add trim molding on each side panel to cover the seam. Finally I will cap the curved side of the wings with the Cherry edge strip.

My only concern at this point is how to transition the side moldings into the fiddle. I will be experimenting with that idea this evening, but I think I can make that look okay.

Thanks again for all the different feedback. I've said it before and I'll repeat it now, this forum excels as a medium for getting help and this is due wholly to the friendly and helpful nature of the people who visit it.

I've been leisurely fairing the topside for the last week or so. It's been very muggy here for the entire month of September and the mosquitoes make it miserable in the garage. So 30 minutes here, 45 minutes there, and a little more fairing done. Haven't done anything else on the cabinet. Guess I was getting burned out again. Although fairing is tedious (like sanding) , it's strangely satisfying at the same time as I see the hull get a little closer to having a top deck. Of course the deck won't be going on for quite some time because there is still plenty to do on the interior. But it makes it easier to visualize.

Port side top deck structure is faired from frame 5 aft. Got the cabin wedges on the starboard side cleaned up and trimmed to shape. Started preparing to fair the starboard side aft of frame 5.

This means setting up a laser level and determining the best line to fair to. Going to be a little trickier on this side because there's not much room to work, but it's cleared out enough and I think I will be able to do it with only a modicum of swearing!