We are in a crisis in the evolution of human society. It’s unique to both human and geologic history. It has never happened before and it can’t possibly happen again. Albert Bates, author of The Financial Collapse Survival Guide and Cookbook, brings you along on his personal journey.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Fishing the Yucatán Channel

For all the changes in fishing technology, for the typical Mayan fisherman little has changed in the past 200 years. Daid is fairly representative of the younger generation, those that learned to fish from their fathers and grandfathers as soon as they were old enough to walk. In this village they rise well before dawn to be out on the grounds in the Straits, in the lagoon, or near the mouth of a river when it gets light enough for their would-be catch to see the bait sparkling close to the surface in the rising sun.

Everybody has their favorite places but anywhere along this coast the fish are almost certain to be biting unless a cold thermal has driven them south towards warmer waters. The Straits of Cuba are a vast conveyor belt returning schools from the Caribbean to the Gulf of Mexico, there to mate and spawn and return new fry to the Atlantic. Where the channel narrows like a funnel at Cabo Catoche the catch is always good. The migratory route feeds the tourists in Cancún today just as it fed the Mayan Empire 1000 years before.

When he gets to a good location to begin his day, Daid tosses out his line, a simple monofilament with a hook knotted at one end, baited with a small fish gathered the previous day, using a hand-held, hand-knotted net.

The line feeds out with the current and trails the sideways drifting boat. He waits 5 minutes, 10, 15. No strikes, so he pulls in the line and moves to a better place, maybe one shown by circling birds or jumping fish. He repeats the process and this time he gets a strike within 2 minutes, pulls it rapidly hand-over-hand into the boat, resets his hook, and tosses the line again. Then another strike, then another. After a while the sea grows calm, so he moves once more. This process repeats until he has used up his bait, used up his fuel, is satisfied with the catch, or has just been unlucky and now grown bored and hungry.

Most days the men are back in port while it is still morning, with an adequate catch to pay everyone a living wage and take the best fish home to the family to eat.

Some of the fisherman go after bigger commercial fish, but they have to go farther out to sea for that. Some set nets for shrimp, or drop cages for lobster. Some snorkle to spear rays, octopus and squid, or gather conches. Some are drift-netters, and sell their catch to the factory boats, never bringing it ashore. Lately taking tourists along has been a good way to get a newer boat or bigger motor, and you can make big money with deep sea fly fishing or whale shark watching if you can master the competition. Most of these young guys do a little of everything, but the hook and line is their standard.

Daid says the restaurants will buy anything he can bring them in the morning, and sometimes all day. Covina and Mero will fetch 20 pesos per kilo, Corel and Esmadregal 30, Pompano 50. We caught a large Barracuda and asked if we should throw it back. “No,” Daid said, “ceviche.” When he decided we’d caught enough, we pulled up onto a sandy beach and he turned our barracuda into Mexican sushi.

Barracuda Ceviche

Serves 5

Ingredients:

5 medium fish (~1 kg fresh weight)

5 limes

2 tomatoes

1 red onion

1 bunch of fresh cilantro

1 habanero pepper

1 tsp. salt

¼ tsp. white pepper

Directions:

Filet the fish, removing skins, heads, tails, bones and innards. Dice the filets and place them into a large serving bowl. Dice the tomatoes and finely dice the onion, cilantro and habanero pepper. Halve and press the limes, rendering the juice into the bowl. Add salt and pepper and stir. Serve chilled with tostada chips.

Are these fishermen an endangered breed? Yes and no. Yes, because tourism in the Mayan Riviera is driving up the cost of living faster than what people can earn fishing. The breakneck and carefree development is also having a horrific environmental impact on bays, estuaries, rivers, and freshwater breeding grounds. If a catastrophe from offshore oil drilling or a tanker wreck were to happen near here, it would destroy the fishery instantly. Climate change is slowly destroying coastal living in a variety of ways, from stronger storms to eroding beaches. And of course, overfishing by multinational seine-netters to feed distant humans and their pets is constantly making it harder for local fishing village economies.

But no, because the price of oil will be tougher on those big guys than on the little ones, who can still row or sail to their fishing grounds. This place is naturally abundant from a confluence of factors, and, for the most part, these families don’t over-exploit that good fortune. A Mayan fisherman is content when he has caught enough. He doesn’t need to work more than about 4 hours in any day, nor does he have any motivation to work beyond that. He doesn’t have a savings account in the bank unless he is has need to pay off his boat or some other big expense. Neither did his father or grandfather. He is rich not because of what he owns, but because of what he expects.

He expects that tomorrow the fish will come by again, the same as they did today.

No comments:

Friends

Dis-complainer

The Great Change is published whenever the spirit moves me. Writings on this site are purely the opinion of Albert Bates and are subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial Share-Alike 3.0 "unported" copyright. People are free to share (i.e, to copy, distribute and transmit this work) and to build upon and adapt this work – under the following conditions of attribution, n on-commercial use, and share alike: Attribution (BY): You must attribute the work in the manner specified by the author or licensor (but not in any way that suggests that they endorse you or your use of the work). Non-Commercial (NC): You may not use this work for commercial purposes. Share Alike (SA): If you alter, transform, or build upon this work, you may distribute the resulting work only under the same or similar license to this one. Nothing in this license is intended to reduce, limit, or restrict any rights arising from fair use or other limitations on the exclusive rights of the copyright owner under copyright law or other applicable laws. Therefore, the content ofthis publication may be quoted or cited as per fair use rights. Any of the conditions of this license can be waived if you get permission from the copyright holder (i.e., the Author). Where the work or any of its elements is in the public domain under applicable law, that status is in no way affected by the license. For the complete Creative Commons legal code affecting this publication, see here. Writings on this site do not constitute legal or financial advice, and do not reflect the views of any other firm, employer, or organization. Information on this site is not classified and is not otherwise subject to confidentiality or non-disclosure.

Donate to Regrarians Crowdfunding

Albert Bates, author of The Post Petroleum Survival Guide and Cookbook, brings you along on his personal journey.

Translate

Search This Blog

Follow by Email

Donating = Loving

The Great Change remains ad-free and takes hundreds of hours a month to research and write and thousands of dollars to sustain. If you find joy and value in these humble posts, please consider becoming a supporter with a recurring monthly donation of your choosing, valued between a cup of tea and a good dinner:

Donation Options

You can also become a one-time patron with a single donation in any amount:

Essential Tools -- and on Special Today!

What We Are Reading

The Biochar SolutionPost-Petroleum Survival GuideClimate in CrisisBuilding Bamboo Fences1491: New RevelationsA Nation of FarmersA Pattern LanguageBamboo: The Gift of the GodsBeyond Zero PointThe Biochar DebateThe Birth of the Gods and the Origins of AgricultureThe Coming Economic CollapseBiochar for Environmental ManagementClaude Levi-Strauss and the Making of Structural AnthropologyConsider the LobsterDepletion and AbundanceDirt! The Ecstatic Skin of the EarthDirt: The Erosion of CivilizationsPlows, Plagues, and PetroleumEarthuser's Guide to PermacultureEcovillagesEmpire of DebtFair Game: My Life as a SpyFermenting RevolutionThe Singularity Is NearThe Starfish and the SpiderFinding CommunityHollyhock CooksDesign for Human EcosystemsDesigning and Maintaining Your Edible Landscape NaturallyHow to Be IdleOn Gandhi’s PathOur ChoiceOur Final Hour: A Scientist's WarningPlows, Plagues, and PetroleumThe Upside of DownThe Vanishing Face of GaiaThe World Without UsSolartopia!Soil Carbon Sequestration and the Greenhouse EffectSorry, Out of GasState of the World 2010Storms of My GrandchildrenThe Empathic CivilizationThe Long EmergencyTwilight in the DesertWhen the Rivers Run DryWhere's My Jetpack?Reinventing CollapseA World Made By HandThe Transition HandbookGaia's GardenHow to Be IdleThe Hand-Sculpted HouseSix DegreesMy IshmaelA Presidential Energy PlanAfter the Ice: A Global Human History 20,000-5000 BCThe Road1491: America Before ColumbusThe Eternal FrontierCollapseTough Little BeautiesPeak EverythingThe Shock DoctrineProfit from the PeakThis Is Not an AssaultCrossing the RubiconWith Speed and ViolenceThe Shell GameFair Game: My Life as a SpyThe Last Oil ShockHeat!Bobos in ParadiseHalf GonePalestine: Peace Not ApartheidThe Tipping PointMycelium RunningFinal EmpireSpiral DynamicsBoomeritisZen Mind Beginners Mind