Spearhead is also dry. A light axe could be useful to ascend the final 100' of snow to gain the actual rock (depending on which route you're doing, ie Barb/Sykes) or you may choose to risk scratching up with a nut tool in one hand and sharp rock in the other. Slip-and-falls on steep snow are the #1 reason for Colorado SAR to get called out and is a crappy way to curtail your climbing season. More than one person has slipped on the steep snow gaining the N. Chimney on Longs and broken bones in the ensuing fall.

Elsewhere on Longs, snow gear is nice for the N. Face and Keyhole but it's possible to get to the summit via Keyhole right now by staying on rock if the water doesn't refreeze into verglass. Good luck!

To add to acouncell's post, my partner and I climbed the Cable Route last Tuesday (6/25). There was plenty of snow travel above the Boulder field. The technical section had some ice (verglass as well as some thicker stuff) and water in the morning on ascent and was a gushing stream on descent (around 1pm). Lots of ice under the snow, too, which made for some slippery conditions once the snow softened. We used crampons for most of the climb and mountain axes for the snow travel but kept the tech tools on the packs as there was plenty to grab onto.

FWIW, we saw several groups go through the Keyhole that day only to turn around shortly thereafter. From what we heard, there was still enough snow to make it scary. From the looks of it, things were melting pretty quickly, though. I wouldn't be surprised if it's dry now.

View of the North Face on Long's Peak (Cable Route) from the Boulderfield on 6/25/2013.

Wfscot - You didn't happen upon my nest of cams about a pitch above the top bolt didja? Left 2 camalots and a nut the Sunday before your climb (paid the price for a good deed in helping another team descend the snow).

Wfscot - You didn't happen upon my nest of cams about a pitch above the top bolt didja? Left 2 camalots and a nut the Sunday before your climb (paid the price for a good deed in helping another team descend the snow).

Mark, I sadly did not. We went left pretty quickly after topping out on the technical section.

Lamb's Slide was in good condition on 11 Jul 2013 with no glacier ice showing yet and no rocks melting out. It was really warm, so conditions may change rapidly. We did not rope up nor put in any protection while ascending Lamb's slide. Broadway was dry to the Notch Coulior with some meltwater from the snowfield.