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November 9 marks the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. That weekend, a special light installation made of thousands of illuminated, helium-filled white balloons will be set up along 12 kilometres of the former Wall as a “symbol of hope for a world without walls.” At five points, the balloons will be released to commemorate the Wall’s breaching 25 years ago. What better time to visit one of the world’s most fascinating cities?

A: Ampelmann — (or Ampelmannchen, little traffic light man) is shown on pedestrian signals across the old GDR (German Democratic Republic). The beloved symbol of East Berlin rose to cult status after reunification, when plans were made to replace him with the generic human figure used in the West. The East prevailed and Ampelmann was given the green light. He is now found not only on the traffic lights, but at various Ampelmann stores — a popular souvenir item.

B: Bebelplatz — If you cross Bebelplatz (formerly Opera Square) from Unter den Linden you will come across a square glass window pane sunken into the ground. Beneath it is a room lined with empty bookshelves. This artwork installation of Israeli artist Micha Ullman, called Library, is a haunting reminder of Hitler’s book burning.

C: Clarchens Ballhaus — This legendary 100-year-old dance hall in Mitte is like a time capsule, complete with dark wood panelling and decades-worn dance floor. Surviving two wars, an Allied bombing that reduced the front of the building to rubble and then Soviet occupation as part of East Berlin, Clarchens was restored to its former, somewhat shabby, glory in 2005 and the dance floor is full again with lessons, concerts, events and an outdoor beer garden. Auguststrasse 24.

D: DDR (Deutsche Demokratische Republik) Museum — This interactive museum offers a fascinating hands-on look into the lives of East Berliners in the former Socialist GDR, including a 1:20 scale model of an apartment in a typical prefabricated highrise estate. The museum is located in the former government district of East Germany, opposite the Berlin Cathedral, on the river Spree. Karl-E: East Side Gallery — The largest remaining portion of the Berlin Wall still standing, this one-kilometre, open-air East Side Gallery is an exhibit of art, murals and graffiti painted directly on the Wall.

F: Freiderichstrasse — Legendary during the Roaring ’20s, central Berlin’s major shopping street was bisected by the Berlin Wall and was the location of Checkpoint Charlie during the Cold War. It is now home to upscale restaurants and shops, such as the French department store Galeries Lafayette, clothing chains Max Mara, Stefanel and Zara, and the bookstore Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus.

G: Gendarmmarkt — This beautiful central square is site of the Konzerthaus and the French and German cathedrals. On one corner sits the chocolatier Fassbender and Rausch. For a serious mid-afternoon hit of cocoa, stop by for a hot chocolate in their upstairs café.

H: Hackescher Markt — Epicentre of the city’s fashion culture, this cluster of buildings and courtyards was reconstructed in the late 1990s and now houses upscale boutiques, designer shops, international chain stores (think American Apparel, Urban Outfitters), chic cafes, bars, and galleries and is a magnet for Berlin’s beautiful people.

I: Island (Museum Island or Museumsinsel) — The northern tip of Spree Island has UNESCO world heritage designation and is home to five world-renowned museums (the Altes, Alte Nationalgalerie, Bode, Neues and Pergamon) and outstanding exhibits, including Nefertiti and the Pergamon frieze. If you’re there on a Saturday or Sunday, take a stroll through the antiques and book market near the Bodemuseum, which offers books, records, CDs, handicrafts and furniture, or the art market offering unique pieces from local artists.

K: Kurfuresdamm — Ku’damm to the locals, this is one of the most famous avenues in Berlin and home to continental Europe’s largest department store, KaDeWe (full name Kaufhaus des Westens or “department store of the west”), reported to be second in size only to London’s Harrods.

L: La Soupe Populaire — Chef Tim Raue’s uber cool eatery, located in the former brewery Botzow Berlin in Prenzlauer Berg — serves a permanent menu of homestyle German comfort food. There are Konigsberger Klopse (meatballs) and eggs in a velvety mustard sauce, and a special menu that changes monthly along with the art exhibit located in the main floor gallery. The dark space is cavernous with exposed brick and original brewery pipes, but the Raue manages to impart a homey feel with mismatched plates and cutlery designed to remind people of their grandmothers. Open Thursday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Be sure to have the Bee Sting cake for dessert. Le Croco Blu smoking bar is also located in the building for pre- or post-dinner drinks. Botzow Berlin, Prenzlauer Allee 242.

M: Mandala Hotel — This five-star boutique hotel is centrally located right at Potzdamer Platz, the junction between former East and West Berlin, making it an ideal base for exploring the city. The spacious rooms are bright and airy with ultra-modern decor and luxurious bathrooms with soaker tubs. Breakfast is served in the swish Michelin-starred FACIL Restaurant overlooking the hotel’s inner courtyard — a pleasant start to the day. And Ono Spa’s Jetlag Revival Massage is just what the doctor ordered after a long overseas flight. themandala.de.

N: New Market Hall — The historic Markthalle Neun in trendy Kreuzberg is the perfect spot for a late lunch. Modified food trucks are set up inside the market and on Fridays and Saturdays local farmers flog their organic vegetables and cheeses. Hit Glut & Spåne for whole smoked fish, Sironi’s for Italian artisanal bread, then grab a beer from one of the market bars for the perfect food hall picnic.

O: Oranienburger Strasse — Running through the fashionable Mitte neighbourhood, from Friedrichstrasse to Hackescher Markt, this street is increasingly known for its shopping and nightlife. The area was formerly a centre of Jewish life in Berlin and is home to the beautiful New Synagogue as well as a former Jewish girls’ school on neighbouring Auguststrasse that has been transformed into a complex of cafes and galleries.

P: Potsdamer Platz — Almost completely razed during the war, and then sliced in two by the Wall, the old heart of Berlin rose from a wasteland to a futuristic mega-complex, becoming home to DaimlerChrysler, the Sony Centre, a glass shopping arcade, movie theatres, hotels and restaurants, in just five years.

The biggest construction site in Europe became the city’s new ultra-modern urban centre and transit junction between the former East and West. It was here in 1996 that Daniel Barenboim conducted the famous “crane ballet” among the towering construction cranes.

Q: Qiu Restaurant & Bar — Located on the first floor of the Mandala Hotel in Potzdammer Platz, this is a great stop for a late afternoon cocktail, pre-dinner aperitif or late-night snack.

R: Reichstag — The federal German parliament building is topped with an accessible glass dome, roof terrace and roof garden restaurant offering spectacular views over the city.

S: Spree Schiffbauerdamm — This narrow street winding along the River Spree in Mitte is dotted with theatres and quaint restaurants and bars catering to the theatre crowd.

T: Trabi — The standard cars of East Germany, which were made of plastic and had a waiting period of 15 to 20 years, Trabis are still seen on the streets today with kitschy tours taking place around the city.

U: U-Bahn — The Berlin underground is efficient and modern, making it easy to get around the city. Running since 1902, the U-Bahn serves 170 stations over 10 lines. The system remained open to residents of both the East and West when the city was divided after the war, but the construction of the Wall in 1961 split the network in two and limited access. U-Bahn lines in East Berlin were severed from the West, while two West Berlin lines (U6 and U8) that ran through East Berlin passed through closed stations (dubbed “Geisterbahnhofe” or ghost stations). These were sealed from the street and lined with armed East German guards, and stopping was out of the question. Friedrichstrasse was the only station that West Berliners could stop at in East Berlin and was used as a transfer point and border crossing into East Berlin.

V: Victory Column — or Siegessaule, sits on the Grosse Stern, a circular traffic island just along from the Brandenburg Gate in the Tiergarten. The monument commemorating Prussia’s victories was moved from the front of the Reichstag in 1938-39.

W: Wall — The Wall, or Berliner Mauer, divided the city from 1961 to 1989 and although it no longer physically exists, its presence is felt everywhere. Chunks of free-standing, graffiti-covered pieces can be found near Potzdamer Platz or intact stretches by the Topographie des Terrors exhibit. And wherever you are in the city, you are somehow always wondering if you are in the former east or west. For a moving glimpse of what the city looked like with the Wall in place, visit the Asisi Panorama of the Divided City of Berlin for a bird’s-eye view from the platform in the 18-metre-high circular building. Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstrasse 205.

X: Xberg — a.k.a. Kreuzberg, is set on either side of the River Spree on the border between east and west. Though no longer in use, many locals still differentiate Kreuzberg by its old postal codes, 36 or 61. The 36 stands for the eastern part of the district; 61 was the west, next to Tempelhof and Schoneberg, where buildings were replaced or extensively renovated, becoming accordingly expensive. In 36, more prewar buildings remained, slowly attracting an influx of artists, musicians and students who took over abandoned factories and lofts, lending the area its bohemian chic vibe. Today along the zone’s lifeline Oranienstrasse, the street that never sleeps, the narrow sidewalks are packed with bars, restaurants and shops.

Y: YAAM (Young African Art Market) — Tucked away off the Spree in Friedrichshain across the street from Ostbahnhof beach bar, this is the cool place to be on a hot day, with reggae playing into the early hours. Stralauer Platz 35.

The writer travelled courtesy of visitBerlin, which did not review the copy.

If you go:

Lufthansa (which code shares with Air Canada) operates daily flights out of YVR to Frankfurt with connections to Berlin’s Tegel airport (TXL).

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