Sunday, November 11, 2012

It's coming
up nearly two years since I arrived in Switzerland. And it flies by pretty
quickly. There's been quite a bit I've come to like about this country - in
fact, you can see a list here - one of which I have no hesitation in saying is
Switzerland's proximity to everywhere else in Europe. In fact, it was one of the first things I wrote about. Jump on a train three hours north-west and find
yourself in Paris; three hours south-east you'll end up saying buongiorno in
Milan; and two hours' flight will take you pretty much anywhere in Europe.

But I haven't
really seen much of Switzerland itself. Living in one of Europe's most
beautiful countries - and one that has some of the continent's most
recognisable icons - that's rather sad.
So, much as I will always be willing to jump on a plane or train and
venture outside of Switzerland's borders, I've recently decided to turn that
around and see what Switzerland has to offer.

And what an
offering. I had long wanted to see perhaps the most instantly recognisable
mountain on Earth - the Matterhorn. However to make the trip worthwhile - it's
a bit of schlep, taking two trains and nearly four hours from Nyon - it's best
to pick a clear day.

A mountain that needs no introduction

We had a long
weekend in September with fine weather, so after making sure that the weather
at the Matterhorn was fine and clear - thanks to the magic of webcams - we
headed for Zermatt, the famous ski town at the base of the mountain. Although
traditionally a ski resort town, more associated with powder snow and freezing temperatures,
Zermatt in late summer nonetheless buzzes with tourists and, of course, hard
core Swiss hikers.

After
arriving in Zermatt, we walked through the town in a state of anticipated
excitement - where's the Matterhorn? We round a bend in one of the
pedestrian-only streets of the village - and there it stood, in its majestic,
iconic, postcard picture-like beauty.

Taking a
series of cable cars from the village, we head up for the mountains. I'd never
been to the mountains above Zermatt at all, let alone in winter - though that's
another goal for another day - but seeing it summer was a strange experience.
The landscape in the high mountains, bare of snow, was almost moon-like - grey,
rocky, devoid of vegetation.

The Alps from the summit of the Klein Matterhorn

After taking
a couple of cable cars up ever higher, we take the last one for the end of the
line - the top of the Klein Matterhorn (Little Matterhorn). With the summit at
nearly 4,000m above sea level, it's the highest point on land I've ever been.
standing on the summit is an awesome experience; the Matterhorn itself so close
you can almost touch it, with cloud billowing off the warm face of the Italian
side of the Matterhorn. To its left, the high peaks of the Alps roll off as far
as the eye can see. I'm halfway to heaven and it's an experience I'll never
forget.

Back down to
earth, and a few days later we're heading for Bern, Switzerland's capital. Bern
is a little like some of the world's other capitals; the seat of a country's
power, it's famous for being the capital - and not much else. Comparisons with
Washington DC and Canberra in Australia spring to mind.

It's not my
first visit to the Swiss capital - that was on a miserable Sunday in winter
earlier last year, and was a bit of a disaster. Horrible, cold, wet weather,
and - being a Sunday - nothing open and nothing to do. I wasn't in a hurry to
go back, so when Emperor D suggested we visit Bern on a Saturday at the end of
summer, I was surprised - but after hesitating, decided to give Bern another
chance.

The River Aare coasts past Bern

I'm glad I
did. While it will never meet the verve (well, for Switzerland) of Zurich or
even Geneva, it is a pleasant city that's lively enough on a Saturday afternoon
in summer. The old part of the town is gorgeous, with cobblestone streets, and
Swiss chocolate box architecture. The River Aare that circumnavigates it, is a
brilliant ceylon sapphire blue, with a fast-running current. Even on a day that
struggled to get out of the 20s in temperature, it looked inviting enough; on a
hot day in high summer, I can only imagine how packed it must get.

We ended the
day by coming across a small, pop-up rock concert in a terraced park by the
river, not far from the train station. We took in local acts - some good, some
truly awful - belting out rock tunes with English lyrics on the top of a bus
while enjoying a pint of beer or a glass of wine. It wasn't a side of Bern that
I expected to see, but I was nonetheless glad to see it, since it made me
realise that first impressions don't always last.

Then, during
October, with autumn in full swing, we headed for the UNESCO heritage-listed
terraced vineyards of the Lavaux region, at the top of Lake Geneva. Lavaux is
famous for its vineyards and the wines that it produced from their grapes; it’s
supposed to be particularly beautiful in autumn as the vines change colour.

Terraced vineyards of Lavaux

A group of us
headed for the tiny lakeside village of Lutry, just east of Lausanne. From
there we took a tourist train through the Lavaux region – the best way to see
them – where we could see the vines marching up the hills in glorious autumn
shades of yellow, orange and red. At the end of the trip, back in Lutry, we
headed back up into the Lavaux vineyards where we eventually found a couple of
bottles of local wines (self-service; very trusting of the Swiss with alcohol
involved!), some disposable wine glasses and, finding a picnic table, sat down
and soaked up the late Sunday afternoon autumn sun, with a couple of glasses of
wine and a great view of the lake and the Alps. Happy times.

Heading back
down the hill to catch the train back was an interesting experience, especially
after a couple of glasses of wine and feeling a little on the light-headed
side. With us in danger of missing the train and the next one not another for
half an hour, and with the road down being too far away and winding, we took a
shortcut – through the vineyards themselves. They are terraced, so getting down
wasn’t too bad, but it did make for an adventurous end to the day trying to find
our way through the vineyards, and ending up in someone’s backyard. I’m sure
that’s not the first time that’s happened to them.

I’m glad I’ve
got out and seen more of the country. I’ve been to Zurich as well in the last
couple of weeks, but there’s still so much more to see. So, when in
Switzerland, go and see her – she’s got a lot to offer.

About Me

I'm a 30-something Australian who lives near Geneva, Switzerland, works for a well-known medical NGO and who loves to cook and travel.
Read about my (very different) journeys on both through my blogs The Empress eats
and The Empress exported.
Find out why I'm called the Empress here.
Follow me on Twitter: @empress_jo