Hamilton Watches

Your Ultimate Guide To The Best Hamilton Watches Out There

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The Hamilton Story

Ask any man worth his horological salt the name of an American watch brand, and he’ll likely spout off Shinola, Weiss and perhaps RGM. Others who are less savvy might make the mistake of naming Hamilton, but they’d only be partially wrong. Though Hamilton is no longer an American brand, most people still recognize the brand for what it was. Home-grown quality watchmaking. This longstanding, tried and true watch brand did actually have its origins way back in 1892 in Lancaster, PA after Hamilton purchased the bankrupt Keystone Standard Watch Company Hamilton grew into an American horological juggernaut during the rise of the railroad industry, crafting railroad pocket watches but eventually migrating toward wristwatches when the smaller timepieces took over in popularity after World War I. Their reputation rested on the fact that railroad watches needed supreme accuracy.

Hamilton’s ties to aviation are one of the strongest relationships it bears, and pilot’s watches are one of its most popular and longest lasting thematic foundations to its line. Hamilton has been making pilot’s watches since way back in 1919, and Hamilton watches were renowned for their accuracy, so much so that both aviators and railroad men relied unequivocally relied on them.

They became the official watch of airlines like Trans World Airlines (TWA), Eastern, United and Northwest back in the 1930s.

Then in World War II, Hamilton moved the entirety of their production to serve the needs of the U.S. military, and they stopped selling to the general public. In 1971, Hamilton was purchased by the Omega and Tissot Holding Company known as Société Suisse pour l'Industrie Horlogère (SSIH). Then in 1984, Hamilton became a subsidiary of the Swatch Group, a merger of SSIH and the ASUAG (Allgemeine Gesellschaft der Schweizerischen Uhrenindustrie). The Swatch Group owns illustrious brands such as Blancpain, Omega, Rado and Glashütte Original. Hamilton currently occupies a slot in the Swatch Group’s mid-range timepieces, along with the likes of Tissot, Mido and Certina.

Why Hamilton Matters

Though the brand is now under Swiss ownership, its horological ethos remains strongly American. Every style produced by the Hamilton brand has strong ties to its original American heritage, whether it’s the military-inspired Khaki Field line or the Jazzmaster, Hamilton watches retain a distinctly American ethos that’s very popular in the mid-price range of what’s considered quality timepieces. Hamilton focuses on various thematic worlds like aviation, military, music, technology and cinema to craft distinct collections in the world of horology.

For decades, Hamilton has also been one of the silver screen’s go-to watch brands, showing up in Elvis Presley’s Blue Hawaii (1961), 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968), Independence Day (1996), Men In Black (1997), Ocean’s Eleven (2001) and Interstellar (2014), and 102 additional major feature films. Their pervasiveness in cinema is arguably one of the largest, along with Rolex, IWC, Omega, Breitling, and Jaeger LeCoulture.

Hamilton watches throw a wide net in terms of price, starting at $395 retail and going all the way up to $6,195. Their specialty is American heritage design watches that echo styles from the 1920s, ‘30s and ‘40s. Whereas they once use American in-house movements when their company was still under American ownership, they now house ETA movements due to their Swatch Group ownership. Hamilton isn’t considered a luxury or premium brand but rather a middle priced watch brand.

Hamilton watches have a strong heritage, and now that the watches are backed with hard to come by Swiss ETA automatic movements because of their Swatch Group affiliation, they’re more than worth pursuing. Though they don’t really appreciate in value like more premium brands, they are high-quality timepieces that garner respect in watch circles. They’re often viewed as a reputable combination of both dressy and casual mid-range watches, but their ability to provide sporty and even futuristic timepieces speaks to their versatility.

The fact that much pricier watch brands use some of the same movements and materials is a testament to the Hamilton brand. Their designs pay proper homage to the past while utilizing new styles that help bring the brand to the modern age. They’re taking more design risks these days, which is a nice jump from their more traditional designs, and the fact that they have the power of the Swatch Group behind them is a very good thing, indeed.

The Collections

There's a high likelihood that Hamilton has a watch that suits your style since their range is fairly expansive. Need something dressy? Jazzmaster is your collection of choice. What about active? Aim for the Khaki Field or Khaki Frogman lines. Hamilton may have started out in American horological tradition, but its clear that their current Swiss ownership has allowed them to venture out of their original style wheelhouse. They've now ventured into truly contemporary with more daring styling over the past few years, but if its the traditional look you're going for, there are also a slew of great options.

Jazzmaster: Maestro Chronograph Automatic

The Jazzmaster line is equal parts artistry and sophistication, symbolizing what’s known as the only truly American art form in both modern and traditional horological interpretations. These different musical styles within the jazz genre show up in classic and edgy watch designs, the latest of which is the Face 2 Face models that have a rotating case with two contrasting modern and classic dials housed within. The Maestro Chronograph, however, remains our favorite with its crisp white dial, rose gold hands and numerals, Swiss automatic movement, and beautiful alligator leather strap.

American Classic: Pan Europ Automatic Chronograph

Hamilton’s distinct American heritage shines through in this collection as it harkens back to the brand’s origins. It’s quite clear that art deco, railway and classic sports influenced the design of this handsome line. Our clear favorite is the re-issue of the classic Pan Europ Automatic sports watch that’s based on the 1971 original. The new non-limited edition version has a stunning , multi-layered reverse panda chrono dial, the awesome H31 automatic movement based on the Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 and a big 45mm case.

Ventura: Elvis80 Automatic Date

The Ventura line is perhaps Hamilton’s most iconic with its asymmetric case that looks like no other watch on the market. Elvis, for whom our favorite Ventura model is named, wore it himself in the 1957 movie, Blue Hawaii, the same year the model was launched. Though it was one of the first battery-powered watches in the mass watch market, the Elvis80 now houses a fully automatic Swiss movement.

Broadway: Automatic Chronograph H43516731

The Broadway Collection is urban sophistication embodied that are inspired directly by New York City’s skyline, as revealed by the collection’s extensive use of black, silver, gray and beautiful textured dials with thin vertical lines. The Broadway Automatic Chrono makes use of all the elements with its anthracite grey dial, display back case with fixed silver bezel and the unique deployant leather strap with contrasting stitching. Its H21 calibre automatic movement offers an impressive 60-hour power reserve.

Khaki Field: Automatic Chronograph H71626735 (Runner Up)

Khaki Field models are all about the brands ties to the military days of old, and it’s a line that goes way back to 1910, the year that Hamilton started equipping our troops in the field. Its spirit hasn’t changed in over a century, with only minor styling changes made to provide a slightly modern touch. The Field Auto Chrono in black PVD might just be the line’s most modern interpretation with its murdered out aesthetic. We love the stippled rubber strap, the textured dial and the single red highlight on the chrono hand.

Khaki Aviation: Khaki Pilot Automatic H64715535

Another undeniably strong tie for the Hamilton brand is the field of aviation. Other brands might call their watches “pilot watches” without any historical usage as such. Hamilton is the real deal, having had both military and commercial applications that are well-documented. Their Khaki Aviation line executes the classic pilot style with modern interpretations, as well. They’re even the official timekeeper of the high-speed and high-flying Red Bull Air Race World Championship competition. Our choice among the many Hamilton Pilot styles is the Pilot Automatic that’s a classic Flieger style that dates back to 1941 German warplane pilots. The highly legible Arabic numerals and large 46mm case harken back to a simpler time in aviation, while the Swiss automatic movement and sapphire glass crystal bring it to the modern age.

Khaki Navy: Frogman Automatic

One of Hamilton’s smaller collections is no less prominent with its nod to underwater adventures. From classic Pioneer and Scuba models to more modern Frogman and BelowZero versions, the Khaki Navy line can range from blisteringly active in the field to mental sweat in the office. Our favorite is easily the new Frogman Automatic dive watch with its big unidirectional bezel, locking screwdown crown and Swiss Automatic movement. It’s ready for the depths (300 meters worth), even if you aren’t.

The Watch Snob Chimes In

Hey Watch Snob,

I was given a Hamilton chronograph by my boss after setting a new sales record at work. It’s nice looking, but I don’t really wear a watch. One of my coworkers wants to buy it from me for $450, which I think is too little. Should I sell it?

First things first, you really want to sell a watch that was given to you by your boss to a coworker, who will see said boss every day of the week? To me, that sounds like a bad, bad move. If you do want to be that guy who sells a watch given to him by his boss, $450 seems OK for most Hamilton watches. Despite their usual $1,000 price tag, they aren’t worth more than a decent lunch in Tribeca. Finally, what type of salesman doesn’t wear a watch? Get it together here, man

A Hamilton Watch for Every Budget

Hamilton is one of those brands that's accessible to most men while still imparting a strong reputation for quality and style. You can spend just a few hundred dollars for a new automatic or quartz model, or you can venture into the low thousands at the top end of their brand. But regardless of what you choose, Hamiltons are generally well made and well respected in the watch industry. There aren't a lot of competitors that can offer Hamilton's range in terms of models and pricing, while also providing excellent materials and Swiss movements. Here are our choices in each price category.

Less Than $1000: Khaki Field Quartz

To call this watch cheap would be an utter insult, since it has all the makings of a watch that should cost more. The Khaki Field Quartz in all stainless steel is just as much at home in the boardroom as it is on the tennis court. The clean black face with Arabic numerals and the red-tipped second hand keep thing classic, while the Swiss quartz movement, sapphire glass crystal and the comfortable solid link bracelet give the watch long term durability.

$1000 - $1500: Lord Hamilton Day/Date Chronograph

This model melds the worlds of dress and sport with finesse. On the sporty side are the fixed bezel tachymeter, reliable Valjoux 7750 movement, functional chronograph pushers and the 100 meter water resistance. For more formal occasions, the beautiful brushed and polished case with contrasting alligator strap mean suit and tie aren’t out of the question.

$1500 - $3000 Khaki King X-Wind Automatic Chronograph

It’s a timepiece that’s aviation engineering in physical form. Its stunning and sporty case houses the world’s first drift-angle calculator in a watch, a feature that allows pilots to precisely calculate and record crosswinds on flights. The silvertone stainless steel Swiss automatic watch is punctuated by a PVD coated unidirectional bezel. It’s equal parts watch and flight instrument, ready for takeoff.

$3000 And Up: Jazzmaster Face 2 Face

One of Hamilton’s newest watches also happens to be its most innovative and bears the highest price tag of any in its entire lineup. The fascinating rotating case is brilliant and keeps two opposite-facing watches within. The H41 automatic chronograph movement powers two faces, one side has a traditional chronograph face with a small seconds dial, while the more complex one reveals a pulsometer, tachymeter and telemeter. Topping off this horological work of art is a black leather deployant strap with contrasting turquoise stitching that matches highlights on both dials. It’s a truly unique timepiece that’s worth the asking price just for the conversations alone that it will surely start.

Maintaining your Hamilton Watch

As with any well-made watch, regular maintenance is important. Some watch owners believe that a high quality timepiece doesn’t really need any maintenance, but that’s where they’re woefully wrong. Hamilton watches, whether quartz or automatic should undergo regular maintenance by an authorized dealer.

Determining the frequency that your Hamilton should be sent in for preventive maintenance and cleaning depends on the model, the regularity of wear, climate/environment and the treatment of the timepiece by the owner. As a general rule of thumb for maintenance, every 3-5 years is a good measure of the range. With a harsher environment with more extreme temperatures and conditions, as well as the level of abuse, more frequent maintenance is highly recommended to ensure longevity. Hamilton’s quartz watches require battery replacement every two to four years. Hamilton automatics are all Swiss, and it behooves you to have them cleaned and recalibrated every few years.

Weekly or even daily, it’s a wise idea to clean your Hamilton watch with a soft dry cloth, as well as occasionally clean all water resistant Hamilton watches with a small toothbrush using warm, soapy water with no corrosive agents or detergents and then rinsing thoroughly with clean water. This will keep your watch in excellent condition and prevent dirt particles from damaging the watch.

For genuine and highly recommended Hamilton watch servicing, refer to them directly here. They provide some basic pricing for cleaning and maintenance of automatic movements, as well as vintage movements. They will also perform battery replacement, as well as replacement of worn parts including gaskets, crowns, pushers, etc. on a case-by-case basis. Hamilton will even refurbish cases and metal bracelets and perform a thorough ultrasonic cleaning for both.

Strap Replacement

Thankfully, most of Hamilton watches utilize standard lug widths ranging from 18mm to 24mm using spring bars, so changing out straps or bracelets is fairly easy. Certain models like the blue dialed version of the Pan Europ actually come with more than a single strap, as well.

Keep your Hamilton versatile, as well, with aftermarket NATO style or silicone/natural rubber straps that match your style or your activity level. It’s always a smart idea to retain less expensive straps to use on casual occasions and retain your OEM leather strap or stainless steel bracelet for more “official” activities that require a polished look.

Hamilton Watches for Women

Not all watchmakers create good offerings for women, and sometimes it almost seems like an afterthought. Though Hamilton doesn’t have a robust line of women’s watches, they do offer both quartz and automatic versions but not across all model lines. That being said, the Jazzmaster and American Classic collections both have attractive watches for the fairer sex.

Furthermore, the trend of women wearing men’s mid-size watches is also growing in popularity, which is exactly where 37-40mm men’s watches fit the bill well for women’s smaller wrists. Not only do these mid-size watches provide for the option for women to wear them, their slightly larger diameter offers easier legibility. If watches from the Jazzmaster and American Classic lines aren’t the right fit for the woman in your life, opt for a 38mm Intra-Matic Automatic that’s utterly timeless in style or something more casual like the 38mm Khaki Field Officer Handwinding.

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