“I never got the craze for kati rolls,” JungMann admits, “but Thelewala has me reconsidering.” tex.s.toast, who seconds JungMann on the lamb roll, gives Thelewala the nod over nearby Kati Roll Co., a local pioneer among Indian street-food joints.

Besides rolls, the brief menu offers a handful of chaat—wew recommends peanut masala, spiked with onion, chiles, spices, and lime—and a few larger plates: chickpea or potato curries, sautéed spiced chicken. Thelewala, open since April, is a more casual cousin of several larger restaurants (Bhojan, Dhaba, Chola), a mostly takeout shop with a few stools, a Bollywood soundtrack, fast-food prices, and nighthawk hours (until 5 on weekends). “We were planning our next visit way before we left – that good,” adds wew.