75ZT Community

Username:

Password:

Log me on automatically each visit:

In order to login you must be registered. Registering takes only a few moments but gives you increased capabilities. The board administrator may also grant additional permissions to registered users. Before you register please ensure you are familiar with our terms of use and related policies. Please ensure you read any forum rules as you navigate around the board.

A couple of weeks ago a member asked me if I would help him replace his starter motor contacts and plunger as his R75 Diesel 2004 was having trouble starting, the starter motor was sticking now and again and with winter coming up would only get worse.

I agreed and we set about removing the starter motor from his R75 diesel once we had removed and replaced the contacts and plunger the car started on the button.

This got me thinking I will replace my own even though I had no trouble with starting as a preventive measure as my own car FL 1 had done the same mileage 83,000 and was roughly the same age albeit a couple of years younger, I did this and to no surprize they were pitted but not to bad.

I mentioned this to my son and we decided to change his as well while doing his MGZT diesel 2005, it gave me the chance to take photo's which i am sharing with you hopefully this should help members whom want to repair their starter motor, if it is sticking or as we did as preventive measure or if the car is having trouble staring and the starter is the fault.

The kit can be obtained form the link below, I picked my kits up as the seller carl whom is a nice chap lives not to far away, the link below is for the diesel but petrol 2.0/2.5 are also available, as is the ones for a the 1.8 he will also take calls if you wish to go down that road. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251755645921? ... EBIDX%3AITHis direct sales are http://www.startermotorkits.com please feel free to say Steve ( Arctic ) referred you.

Right after the introduction lets get down to removing the starter motor, remove the engine cover and the air duct from the slam panel.

You then need to remove the negative lead from the battery 13mm spanner, this is the thick black cable if this is all new to you Fig 1

1

Once the battery as been disconnected you will now need to remove the two battery cable leads from the starter motor, also an electric spade connector wire on the starter solenoid which is just pulled off, the cables are removed by undoing the 13mm nut in the pic below Fig 22

Remove the spade connector first Fig 33

Undo the 13mm nut next Fig 44

Once the nut is loose remove with your fingers so as not to drop it into the engine bay below, on to the under tray Fig 55

Now remove the cables Fig 66

To make it more easy I found it better to remove EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve) four Allen key/10mm bolts and the jubilee clip and set aside the intercooler hose, Fig 7/87

8

You will now need to remove the two starter mounting bolts noting that the upper bolt secures an engine earth lead, this is 13mm and a deep socket is best I found, the bolt can be found under the trunking holding some wires. Fig 99

Using the socket loosen the upper bolt holding the earth lead Fig 10/1110

11

With the upper bolt loosened/removed you can now remove the lower bolt/nut you will need a 13mm ring spanner and a 15mm ring spanner for this Fig 12 12

Once you have remove the nut you can slide out the lower bolt Fig 1313

If you have not removed the upper bolt beforehand but only loosened it ? now is the time to remove it, leave it to dangle Fig 1414

This pic shows where the bolt resides Fig 1515

Next remove the clip holding the coolant pipe Fig 1616

This will allow you to move the coolant hosepipe to one side, Fig 1717

Now the coolant pipe/hose is out of the way it gives better access to extract the starter motor Fig 1818

Lift the rear of the starter motor a turn it upwards towards you Fig 1919

The starter motor should come clear of the engine that is phase one, now you have the starter motor in your hands you can progress to replacing the starter contacts and plunger Fig 20 20Cheers Arctic

Phase two of replacing the starter motor contacts and plunger to a diesel R75 MGZT.

Now the starter motor is on the work bench you can start to dismantle it to replace the damage contacts/plunger or just as a preventive measure as I/we did.Your repair kit should have two contacts and a plunger along with a short instruction leaflet.

Why not also change your brushes & bushes at the same time, they'll also be well worn by now & its a very simple matter when you've got the starter motor on the bench, the same goes for your alternator, change your brushes & bearings at about 80,000 miles & save yourself having to fork out for a new stator & windings because the bearing have collapsed & smashed everything up, its a standard thing that I always did for caterpillar earth moving equipment, it not only saved money but also saved breakdown time in the bush, common sense.

Ted wrote:Why not also change your brushes & bushes at the same time, they'll also be well worn by now & its a very simple matter when you've got the starter motor on the bench, the same goes for your alternator, change your brushes & bearings at about 80,000 miles & save yourself having to fork out for a new stator & windings because the bearing have collapsed & smashed everything up, its a standard thing that I always did for caterpillar earth moving equipment, it not only saved money but also saved breakdown time in the bush, common sense.

HI Ted. Please feel free to add any photos you have of changing the brushes to the thread I am sure it will be most appreciated by all owners and members cheers Arctic.