WHERE TO FIND IT

WHERE TO FIND IT; A Rope of Pearls Needs a Good String

By Daryln Brewer

Published: December 28, 1989

PEARLS seem synonymous with classic style, habitually draped around the necks of fashion editors and the current First Lady. But pearl necklaces need to be maintained, so what is the procedure when a strand breaks or needs routine restringing? How does one find a reliable restringer, especially in light of horror stories about jewelers who substitute cheap pearls for fine ones? One way is to ask around and deal with someone who is recommended.

One such person is Margaret H. Hoisik, who learned her craft at Tiffany and has practiced it for 35 years. Today, in addition to individual commissions, she restrings pearls for Cartier, Angela Cummings and Grant A. Peacock, a jeweler at 57th Street and Fifth Avenue.

Pearls should be restrung once a year, Ms. Hoisik said. ''And if you wear them a lot, twice a year,'' she added. ''Or at least have them checked.'' The rougher you are with pearls, the more likely the knots will loosen or the strand break.

Ms. Hoisik's tools are ''basically just scissors and tweezers,'' she said. She begins by cutting each pearl from the string and putting it on a velvet tray. Then with silk thread (cotton or plastic thread makes strands stiff, she said) she restrings the entire strand before making knots between the individual pearls.

She does not use a needle, but tips the silk with gum arabic, which hardens it and makes a point. Then she passes the thread through each pearl; when they are all in place, she makes the knots with a wizard-like twirl of her fingers. A piece of wire attaches the last pearl to the clasp, giving the strand ''a finished look,'' she said. She said pearls may be a bit tight after restringing. ''As you wear them, they will give,'' she said.

Wearing pearls is good for them, she said. ''The oil from the body gives them a luster.'' But hair spray and perfume take the sheen off pearls, so cosmetics should always be put on before jewelry. And keeping pearls on when swimming in chlorinated water is not wise.

Ms. Hoisik recommends storing pearls in a soft cloth so they will not be scratched by other jewelry.

She works at a turn-of-the-century jeweler's bench at Albert J. Pujol, a jeweler to the trade. But she accepts, by appointment only, private clients who can leave their pearls with her or use her while-you-wait service.

Her service mainly involves restringing pearl necklaces and bracelets, but she will work with some semiprecious stones like amethysts, garnets and tourmalines. She will not handle emeralds, rubies, sapphires or seed pearls because they are so fragile, nor does she supply clasps or replacement or add-on pearls.

Ms. Hoisik charges $30 for a strand up to 18 inches long; $40 for strands 18 to 24 inches, and $50 for strands 25 to 32 inches. ''We restring all types of pearl necklaces,'' said Bibi H. Herzog, who has been doing so for 22 years. She will also string all kinds of precious and semiprecious stones except garnets, which, she said, ''are miserable to work with.''

Mrs. Herzog will lengthen strands of pearls and make bracelets into necklaces; she will provide any additional matching pearls needed for such jobs. She also sells clasps. ''We have probably the largest selection of clasps in town,'' she said.

Mrs. Herzog also recommends restringing pearls once a year. How do you tell when restringing is needed? ''If you play with your necklace and you can move the pearls freely even one-half a millimeter,'' she said, ''it means the knot is already stretched and it's time to restring.''

She uses silk thread exclusively and does not offer a while-you-wait service. Her minimum charge for restringing pearls is $20; for gems, the minimum is $50. In addition to selling pearls and other jewelry in her booth in the jewelry district, Eva Finkelstein restrings pearls, as she has been doing for 25 years. She works only with pearls, using a combination of silk and cotton thread, and will do the work while you wait. There is a minimum charge of $10. Here's Where