Sunday, 30 August 2015

Before
deciding upon treatment, you should first access what ‘type’ of stain it is,
before a stain can be removed the surface tension that bonds it must be
released, then the stain encapsulated and held in suspension to be removed.

Use
a suitable (dependent upon the type of stain) 20% stain remover with in a
solution of and 80 percent distilled water, to remove stains from cloth seats.
Spray a small amount of the solution onto the stain. Wait for a few minutes,
and then scrub the stained area with a soft bristle brush or old toothbrush.
Blot the area with a soft clean cloth

Diagnosis
is the key, not guess work. With all cleaning products, always test a small,
inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and
ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen
stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry.

Depending
on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH
7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products. Always select a
chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to
use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your
vehicle or the

a) Organic stains- these include proteins and fats, body
oils, mould yeast, bacteria, bugs and carbohydrates. Organic soil is cleaned
with an alkaline (pH 8+).Most of the stains found in the vehicle interior are
of an organic nature and require an alkaline type cleaner. Some organic stains
(i.e. milk, blood, vomit, urine) should be removed with an enzyme type cleaner
and a disinfectant applied to the area

b) Non-Organic stains- mostly found on the exterior of the
vehicle, hard water scale (calcium) lime deposits, Road tar, grease and oil
film, and require an acid (pH 6 or less) type cleaner.

c) Petroleum soils - substances that do not contain water,
nor are they miscible, these soil types include, motor oils, and crease and
road tar, and require a petroleum-based solvent type cleaner.

Stain
Types:

a) Water Soluble Stains- These stains can be dissolved in
cool water or loosened with water based cleaner, coffee; soft drinks, cocoa and
chocolate are good examples.

b) Oil soluble stains- These are stains that are comprised
of oily or greasy substances, which include cooking, oil from fried foods and
suntan oil.

c) Combination Stains- These stains contain both water based
and oil-soluble properties. Cleaning these stains require treatment with a
petroleum solvent followed by water based cleaning solution.

d) Unidentifiable Stains- Sometimes stains cannot be
identified. Treat these stains like a combination stain. Clean with a petroleum
solvent followed by water based cleaner.

As
can be seen with the above lists an all-purpose cleaner will probably not clean
stains effectively (Most are butyl based, which is a huge known carcinogen)
With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small
inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface,
and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material.

Stain
removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry. Read the product labels and
always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally
friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they
won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. (See also Vehicle Interior
Detailing and Solvents)

All
Purpose Cleaner (APC)

As
you can see from the above list the so-called ‘all-purpose cleaner’ (APC)
cannot remove all stains, usually a high pH (6.0+) it’s better to use a
specific stain remover than to compromise. Always select a chemical / cleaner
that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing
any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the
environment

Many
well-intentioned detailers use the so-called all-purpose cleaning (APC)
chemical for detailing. Using a product like Simple Green or a degreaser to
clean everything from wheels to carpets is both dangerous and harmful to the
materials used for modern automobile materials.

A
safer alternate is a Limonene (citrus-based) solvent, they are biodegradable,
environmentally friendly and safe to use. There is no such thing as a one size
fits all type chemical cleaner, regardless of what a car care product vendor
would have you believe.

Most
detailing chemicals are formulated to remove specific stains and a little
knowledge of their pH and chemical content will help in their correct selection
and use; the most common types of chemicals include surfactants, solvents,
wetting agents, Saponifiers and Chelators

Before
using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working
on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible
with the material and will not damage it.

Diagnosis
is the key, not guess work. With all cleaning products, always test a small,
inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and
ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen
stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry. Read the product
labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of
contents, pH levels etc.

Always
select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly
and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t
harm you, your vehicle or the environment

Choose
carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act
upon. The misinformation and myths that are so prevalent in the detail industry
is the reason that detailers need to do research on their own.

I
would strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else
shares with you. Treat all marketing
claims as being just biased marketing claims and if you're lucky they will be
based on truth and the company will operate ethically.

Saturday, 29 August 2015

All abrasive
polishes are ‘foam
pad and applied pressure dependant’as far as
their paint correction abilities are concerned. Any abrasive / pad combination
is reliant upon its most abrasive component.

If we consider the Lake
County (LC) White foam (50 PPI) polishing pad as the baseline; any polish used
will derive help from the abrasive abilities of the foam.Then consider the LC
Blue (70 PPI) finishing pad has no abrasive ability and will contribute nothing
to the cutting capability of a polish.

What is derived from this is that a polishes abrasive ability
can be ‘fine-tuned’ by using different combinations (abrasiveness) of polish
and foam (the same thing is true of wool pads) and of course differing the
amount of downward pressure (10-15 Lbs is the usual range) applied will also
have an effect on the abrasives capability

Different pad / product combinations
(least abrasive pad / polish first) This is why a ‘test’ spot is so
important.

a)Base pad / product (least abrasive pad / product)
if this combination does not provide the desired results, increase the
aggressiveness of the technique or product selection.

b)Step-up 1 - using the same pad with a more
abrasive product

c)Step-up II – use a less
abrasive pad and the same product as used in step-up I

d)Step-up III- using the same pad with a more abrasive product

As can been ascertained from the above the total abrasive ability of a
polish / foam pad combination is subject to many variables, the polishes
abrasive ability is just the starting point

The key to the polishing process is to know how the paint will
react with each pad / polish combination you consider using. You must know your
product and what its capabilities are before using it. This is why a ‘test’
spot is so important.

All pads have a performance cycle, meaning you will get the
desired results only to a certain point on that curve. The point of declining
performance is typically reached by polish / compound pad being overloaded with
product; you should always be able to see the individual cells or texture of
the pad, with proper, regular cleaning pad overload can be avoided.

Clean (or replace) you
pads frequently: pads are easy to clean; the slotted pad face actually makes it
easy to clean. Do not use the same pad to apply differing products as cross
contamination will reduce the effectiveness or completely negate their purpose.
A new or freshly cleaned pad must be used with each type of car care product.

Other articles from this
series - TOGWT Detailing Wiki
Articles – Polishing Index

Always be willing to learn; because the
more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you don’t know. It is said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access
to a reliable information sources. I would like to think that these
articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to
professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their
knowledge.

I hope these articles are informative. They are
based on the current status of technical development as well as my experience
with the products.

By having some understanding of the
‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you
understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you
desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share these articles as it
helps other detailers further their knowledge.

As always if you have questions, I’ll do my best to answer; bear
in mind the only stupid questions is the one that was unasked. Questions
and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated

Thursday, 27 August 2015

Automotive paint surfaces comprise numerous microscopic peaks and valleys, much like the profile of a mountain range. These irregularities are known as capillary structures; there may be millions of these defects per square inch. When these scratches are removed from a surface it becomes a smooth level surface that reflects light.

Polishing could be described ‘ as going through the grits’ i.e. each progressive piece of grit finishing paper or pad / polish combination you are replacing scratches with finer and finer scratches until they cannot be seen with the naked eye

Scratches

Are identified by a grit number; "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of finishing paper that are required to remove the scratches left by the grit scratches i.e. 2000 grit scratches are removed by using an abrasive rated at 3000 grit. You are actually replacing scratches with even finer scratches until they are invisible to the naked eye.

Abrasives

The ability for an abrasive to "cut" depends on the shape of its crystals or particles, not necessarily its size. A medium size, spiked abrasive will tumble and dig. However, a large round crystal won't leave a deep scratch.

A large hard abrasive may also be brittle. It will cut once and lose its edge, while a softer small abrasive will hold its edge and keep on cutting. Many smaller abrasives have wedge shaped edges protruding from triangular crystals. These can easily slice through an oxidized layer of metal.

Polishing –cutting using a compound (an abrasive process) or polishing, (a burnishing process), since the polyurethane is a thermoplastic, generation of excessive heat may cause the molecular structure to soften or expand driving the defect deeper into the substrate

Polish to a ‘haze’ - when a polish "flashes" from a liquid paste to a light semi-dry haze; its colour changes from the polish colour to almost transparent (like a thin film of Vaseline) ; the polish has then broken down and is ready for removal. The point at which a polish is fully broken down comes with experience but a good yard stick is when the polish has become clear and can easily be wiped off.

Breaking-down the abrasives – it is important to know when a diminishing abrasive polish has broken down because if you take it too far it will dust and you will re-introduce surface marring, conversely if you don’t work diminishing abrasives sufficiently they will cause surface marring; this is due to the size of the abrasive and its cutting ability, were as once an abrasive has broken down it will burnish the surface as opposed to cutting it

Note: 'Product Designation' numbers refer to grit

Grit Numbers

Sandpaper or finishing paper is the most common item from a larger group of products known as "coated abrasives" i.e. Aluminium oxide.

When talking about "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of finishing paper (sandpaper). The lower the grit the more abrasive and conversely, the higher the grit number the lesser (smoother) the finishing paper

When talking about abrasive finishing paper, "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of paper. It eliminates the risk of deep sanding scratches by providing a uniform grit size. This makes sense if you imagine how small the grit particles on a 1000-grit finishing paper would need to be to fit into a 1- inch square. Grit finishing paper is referred to by the size of its abrasives (i.e. 1500-grit paper) the grit you use depends on what kind of scratch you are trying to remove

Materials used - most good compounds are a combination of both silica and aluminium oxide. The abrading ability of these compounds can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine speed and/or pressure used, using wet or dry and/or type of foam (different foam compositions have a differing abrading ability) Allow sufficient time for the polish to work, with a more aggressive polish a longer time period is required (approx. 3 – 6 minutes)

The speed at which the foam pad travels across a paint surface is also important, moving too fast won’t allow the micro-abrasive to ‘beak down’, Machine linear speed; machine left to right movement shown as inches per second (IPS) apply polish at an MLS of 3-inches per second with a rotary polisher (1.0 to 1.5-inch per second random orbital buffer).

Lessen the Need for Polishing

Polishing removes the paint matrix system's ultra violet protection. Proper washing and drying
techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing. Using a chemical
paint cleanser versus polishing on a clean finish to simply remove old wax/sealant
is another. And always follow the rule of using the least abrasive polish and
pad combination (working smarter not harder) Light polishes contain either mild
abrasives and / or a chemical cleaner (solvent) most mild abrasive polishes
will remove medium scratches or surface imperfections

Always be
willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you
don’t know. It is said
that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a reliable
information sources. I would like to think that these
articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to
professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their
knowledge.

I hope these articles are informative. They are
based on the current status of technical development as well as my experience
with the products.

By having some
understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little
science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve
the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you
would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

As always if you have questions,
I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions is the one
that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always
appreciated

Friday, 21 August 2015

Often found from parking in municipal or underground parking facilities, calcified water spots on paint and glass, water and concrete spots are pretty much the same chemically; they are consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) with the concrete being crosslinked with water. Often mistaken as Bird Excrement

Correction - these can sometimes be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits

a) Apply 1:1 ratio distilled water with distilled White Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH 2) solution, and a drop or two of carwash concentrate to provide surface lubrication, Use a spray bottle to apply the solute mixture on the spots and let them "soak." Then rinse with water and repeat as necessary

b) If the ambient temperature water/vinegar mix does not work, use warm (100-120 degrees) 100% distilled White Vinegar, saturate a clean kitchen sponge with undiluted vinegar and hold the sponge over the concrete spots for a few minutes

c) If the above do not remove them try equal parts distilled water, isopropyl alcohol and distilled white vinegar plus a drop or two of car wash concentrate for surface lubrication. The acid in the vinegar will help etch and dissolve the concrete.

·

Rinse the area thoroughly with water after the vinegar and then reapply wax or sealant to that area.

·

To remove any surface etching use a machine polish ( Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound, Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Swissvax Cleaner) and a cutting (LC Orange or Yellow) foam pad to level the surface (use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive set-up)

·Work on a very small area at a time (2-foot x 2-foot) until the polish has run out

·Repeat this process two or three times, as necessary

·If none of the above methods remove the etched water spots consider wet-sanding the paint finish

·Reapply surface protection once spots have been removed

Notes:

·Portland cement (a binder) is the most common type of cement in general use around the world, used as a basic ingredient of concrete, mortar, stucco, and most non-specialty grout. It’s made by heating powdered limestone with clay

·Concrete is made by mixing cement with sand, water and aggregate (crushed rock). Chemical reactions happen in the mixtures and eventually they set

Always be willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you don’t know. It is said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a reliable information sources. I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.

I hope these articles are informative. They are based on the current status of technical development as well as my experience with the products.

By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

As always if you have questions, I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions is the one that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated

Water doesn’t leave marks or
etch surfaces; it’s the minerals that it contains calcium (Ca) and magnesium
(Mg) and reactivity (heat acting as a catalyst) the spots are actually traces
of minerals left on the surface when the water evaporates. Alternatively they
can be caused by industrial pollution (i.e. acid rain, bird excrement or
industrial fallout)

Generally surface
water-spots have no raised edges and are very shallow and so cannot be felt,
they are very similar to micro-fine surface marring. They cannot be removed
from the surface by washing but they can usually be removed with a 1:1 solution of vinegar and distilled water; this acid-based (acetic acid) formula breaks
the bond between mineral deposits and the vehicle surface. For minor surface
etching use a slightly abrasive chemical paint cleaner

Note: Vinegar is a liquid
produced from the fermentation of ethanol in a process that yields its key
ingredient, Acetic (Ethanoic) acid, pH 2.7

There are two categories of
water mark (See also Calcified Water Marks)

Stage I (Surface) Corrosion

[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage
to the paint surface]

Stage II (Sub-surface) Corrosion

[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on
the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an
etched or white haze on the surface( a concave circular mark ) after the stain
has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]

a) Surface water spots- (Stage I Corrosion)
alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which
are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat)
radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to
the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any
length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular
mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0
(vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline

b) Below surface (etched) spots- (Stage II Corrosion )
are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird
excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any
length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular
mark. Unlike water spots which typically have a white outline of the spot, acid
rain etching is smaller and you can see the damage in the clear coat.

Inspect the surface etching
under magnification, and then you will be able to assess the damage.
Magnification will allow you to view paint flaws in perfect detail. View the
edges of acid rain or water spot damage, and the hard-to-see depth of
scratches. Only then, you will be able to assess the real damage. The edge
should be levelled, which will make the etched depression almost invisible.

Etched acid rain spots are
one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will
probably take more than one attempt to remove them.

Acid spots require an
abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet
sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle
with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid
concentrates.

If the surface can be
rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing.
Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than
abrading the surface. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always
test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or
etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the
material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its
protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without
protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax
protection be applied immediately

Removing ‘Water spots’

1) Removing surface (Stage I Corrosion) water
marks

Optimum MDR Mineral Deposit Remover - eliminates the need to use abrasive polishes for the removal of
light water spots. Water spots start out as a topical contaminant, but over
time they will etch the paint, requiring an abrasive to completely remove. Topical
water spots are considered Type 1, and that's the kind Optimum MDR Water Spot
Remover is designed to remove.

MDR is designed to dissolve water spots
and other mineral-laden water-based contaminants before they etch your
vehicle’s paint. This thick and non-abrasive gel formula easily clings to the
surface allowing the environmentally safe acids and chelating agents to power
through mineral build-up. MDR leaves the surface clean, smooth, and water spot
free.

Depending on where you live, you may be
all too familiar with the scaly build-up left behind by hard water. Calcium,
magnesium, and other naturally occurring minerals in water can harden inside
pipes and on to your car. If your
vehicle is parked next to a sprinkler, or washed with your garden hose that is
hooked up to a water source with high mineral content, you can expect to see
that nasty build-up on your vehicle over time. MDR provides a safe and
effective way to remove the build-up and save your paint from unsightly
etching.

Ideal for use on any hard exterior
surface including paint, glass, chrome, and wheels. To use, simply apply a
quarter-sized amount to and applicator pad and work into the surface for 30-60
seconds, then wipe away the product residue to check the results. Follow with a
thorough wash to remove any additional residue, and then apply your favourite paint
protection.

2) Removing etched below surface (Stage II Corrosion) water marks

•These can be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any
hardened surface deposits

•Work on a very small area at a time (2-foot x 2-foot) until the
polish has run out

•Repeat this process two or three times, as necessary

•Reapply surface (paint) protection once spots have been removed.

If none of the above methods
remove the etched water spots consider wet-sanding the paint finish (See also Glass Polishing article)

To neutralise acid water
spots using a polish or compound will remove the etching and the indentations,
the below paint surface should then be neutralised ValuGard A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system

If the surface
can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive
polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants
rather than abrading the surface. With all cleaning products (especially
solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't
discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is
suitable for the material

After the
paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer
(s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is
very important that a paint protection be applied immediately

Notes-

1.Synthetic
steel or bronze wool whatever the grade can leave micro-scratches in the glass,
which then become impregnated with road dirt, grit and grime, causing a
clouding the glass over time, which impairs visibility.

2.Do
not use abrasive cleaner; glass polish or any grade synthetic steel wool on
after market-tinted glass or you will probably scratch the surface.

3.For
deeply etched water spots (> 0.004 Mil) in the windshield surface, do not
attempt to polish them out, consult an automotive windshield vendor as glass or
plastic used on later model cars is soft and thin (this may vary by manufacturer)
due to weight / cost savings by vehicle manufactures and polishing could cause
surface to become badly scratched, stressed or cracked.

4.Be
cautious with polishes that contain abrasives like aluminium or cerium oxide as
they have the potential to damage glass beyond repair.

5.Some
windshields and mirrors have a tinted plastic coating or a blue tint that will
scratch or be damaged, only use a glass polish (not synthetic steel or bronze
wool) on uncoated glass.

Always be
willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you
don’t know. It is said
that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a reliable
information sources. I would like to think that these
articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to
professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their
knowledge.

I hope these articles are informative. They are
based on the current status of technical development as well as my experience
with the products.

By having some
understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little
science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve
the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you
would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

As always if you have questions,
I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions is the one
that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always
appreciated

About Me

These articles are college level PhD(tailing) material that is and a wealth of factual discussion that is easily understood and very informative. It is available on Amazon’s Digital Text Platform, Kindle 3 and the Apple iPad. The information in these articles is factual rather than subjective. It is not intended to be a source of opinion but rather knowledge attained by verifiable means, based on tried and proven techniques, methodologies and facts about detailing and the chemicals and products used
My garage
Jaguar XFR V8 Stratus Grey
‘10, Audi S8 4.2 Night Blue Pearl
'08, Mercedes 380SL '84 Beige