Missoni

With his last menswear collection for the family label, Luca Missoni made a splash as big as David Hockney's famous painting. Missoni used every shade of bluenavy, turquoise, aqua, azureto evoke summer's water-based pursuits. The slicked-back hair of the models suggested they'd just clambered out of the sea or the swimming pool, but Missoni also offered a fisherman's vest, and a cagoule suitable for yachting. And when he wasn't in a blue mood, he was showing the family's signature jacquards in sunshine yellow or sunset pink. Paired with white trousers and satin-patched sneakers, they represented a timeless, cheerful, and appealingly quirky way to dress for the season. Other parts of the collection demonstrated a welcome dose of edge. A black-and-white twinset in Missoni's signature chevron pattern cried out for Alain Delon as the charming sociopath Ripley in Plein Soleil to do it full justice. The sixties-ish trilby hat only compounded the impression.