Inside Health

PERSONAL HEALTH

PERSONAL HEALTH; Tips for the Season of Burgers and Briquettes

By JANE E. BRODY

Published: June 26, 2001

It is now officially summer and peak grilling season has arrived. Although many questions have been raised in recent years about the safety of consuming foods cooked over hot coals, it would be hypocritical of me, the owner of three well-used grills, to suggest avoiding such fare entirely.

Besides, what's a summer without barbecued chicken, grilled vegetables or, occasionally, barbecued ribs, burgers or sausages, especially now that low-fat burgers and sausages can be made with turkey or chicken, as well as beef and pork?

So before you abandon this time-honored and much enjoyed means of preparing food, read on. There are many ways to reduce any health risks that may be involved in barbecued foods.

Health and Safety Concerns

Some studies by cancer researchers have linked the grilling (or broiling) of ''muscle meats'' -- that means beef and other meats, poultry and fish -- to what may be an increased risk of developing certain cancers. When these protein-rich foods are cooked at high temperatures, compounds can form on the surface of the food that cause cancerous tumors in animals. The compounds, called heterocyclic amines, or H.C.A.'s, are produced from amino acids, the building blocks of protein.

In addition, when fat from foods being grilled lands on hot coals or lava or ceramic bricks, substances called polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, or P.A.H.'s, form and coat the food through smoke and flare-ups. This is most likely to occur when the food being grilled (or broiled) is a muscle meat that contains fat.

Neither H.C.A.'s nor P.A.H.'s have yet been shown to cause cancer in people. Nonetheless, the American Institute for Cancer Research believes that it is wise to modify grilling techniques to reduce exposure to these compounds and to be moderate about consuming meats, poultry and fish that are cooked over (or under) a direct flame.

A health issue of more immediate concern involves the all-too-common practice of placing cooked meats, poultry or fish on the same unwashed platter that held the foods when they were raw. These foods when raw may be contaminated with food-poisoning organisms that are destroyed in cooking but that can recontaminate the food after it is cooked if the platter is not thoroughly washed in between. If the cooked food is not eaten or refrigerated immediately, the organisms can flourish.

Likewise, basting with a marinade that was used to season the raw food, especially when the food is nearly finished cooking, can recontaminate it. It's best to make extra marinade for basting, or boil the marinating liquid briefly before using it to baste the food being grilled. Also, foods should always be marinated in the refrigerator.

Using grills safely to avoid burns is also important, no matter what foods are being cooked. I cannot tell you how many times I have seen people pour lighter fluid on coals that have already started to burn but are not burning fast enough to satisfy the cook. Of course, the label on all cans of lighter fluid warns against that dangerous practice.

Likewise, spraying a hot grate with nonstick cooking spray while it is sitting on a lighted grill can draw fire into the can and result in severe burns. To avoid that hazard, simply remove the grate from the grill, spray it away from the burning coals or gas and then return it to the grill.

Tips to Reduce Carcinogens

In a brochure called ''The Facts About Grilling,'' the American Institute for Cancer Research offers the following suggestions to limit exposure to known carcinogens from grilled foods.

*Marinate meats, poultry and fish in a low-fat marinade before grilling. For reasons not yet known, even a brief time in a marinade reduces the amount of H.C.A. formed, sometimes by as much as 92 percent to 99 percent. Use a marinade that contains an acidic ingredient, like vinegar or citrus juice. Keep the oil in the marinade to a minimum to reduce flare-ups and P.A.H. formation. Fish needs only 15 minutes in a marinade, skinless poultry about half an hour and meats about one hour. See the accompanying box for some suggestions.

*Before marinating and grilling meats and poultry, trim off as much fat as possible. Remove the skin from poultry. In general, avoid high-fat meats like ribs and fatty sausages. Shish kebabs that combine well-trimmed cubes of meat, chicken cutlets, firm fish or shrimp with lots of skewered vegetables are excellent choices.

*The less time foods spend on the grill, the fewer carcinogens form. That is another good reason for preparing kebabs. But the institute also suggests precooking meats, poultry and fish in the oven or microwave, then grilling them briefly to get that barbecued flavor. When preparing ribs or fatty sausages, precooking them in water is a popular technique for reducing the fat and limiting flare-ups.

*To further reduce smoke and flare-ups, cover the grill grate with punctured aluminum foil instead of placing the food directly on the grate, and use tongs or a spatula to turn the food instead of piercing it with a fork, which causes fat-containing juices to drip on the coals. Also, keep a spray bottle of water handy to douse any flare-ups.

*Turn foods often to reduce H.C.A. formation. Recent research showed that cooking burgers at a lower temperature and turning them often speeds the cooking process while effectively killing any bacteria that may be present in the meat.

*Avoid blackened or charred foods. Trim off all charred portions before eating the food.

*Focus on vegetables. Grill marinated vegetables on skewers or on grilling grates designed for that purpose (with openings small enough to keep food from falling through). You can also grill veggie burgers.

In any case, keep meat portions small -- a serving is no bigger than a deck of cards. Pig out on vegetables instead.

Marinades: Simple, Healthful and Tasty

Some of Jane Brody's favorites. Mix ingredients and marinade in the refrigerator.