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In April, we posted on the demise of fresh hummus joint Olga's on Smith and noticed signage for its replacement. The silhouette of a pig's head looms over the logo for HBH Gourmet Sandwiches & Smoked Meats like the lid of a bullet smoker, and for good reason: The new café cures its own bacon for BLTs, smokes shoulder for its pulled pork, and for the sandwich-adverse, serves fried pork balls with barbecue sauce as a starter. Meats — including a somewhat Montreal-esque short rib pastrami — are cured and smoked on the premises; pickles, sauces, and mustard are also made from scratch. The owners, who have been friends for thirty years, tell us they've been open for a week and plan to sell beer and wine at the 30-seat spot. For now, though, they'd be happy to pour you a made-to-order Vietnamese coffee.