When choosing an organic face cream or skincare product it is important to be aware of the ingredients within the product. Please look at labels carefully. Below is a list of ingredients that should be avoided.

Bismuth oxychloride: a synthetically prepared crystalline powder used in cosmetics as a filler, & to bind other ingredients. The powder has to be forced into the pores, resulting in clogged pores or irritated skin.

DMAE-dimethylaminoethanol: marketed as “face lift in a bottle,” however, what it does is temporarily paralyze the small muscles of the face, making it seem like wrinkles are less visible. No long term results of application are yet known

Fragrance: highly allergenic. Contains large quantities of toxins & chemicals not disclosed. Fragrance-free means that fragrance chemicals have been added to the product to mask the natural aromas of the ingredients

Glycerin: look for vegetable glycerin. Glycerin without the vegetable qualifier usually means petrochemical

Matrixyl: is a new polypeptide. It is said that matrixyl is at least as effective against wrinkles as retinol. It is said to work by “relaxing facial tension”, similarly to botox. We feel that repeatedly paralyzing the muscles can only sap their inherent strength.

Methylisothiazolinone: antimicrobial agent inhibits the development of particular neuron structures that are essential for transmitting signals between cells. Damaging to a developing nervous system

Over the last few weeks we have had queries about the need to use an organic face cream or facial moisturiser during the summer. While our skin tends to be less dry during the summer months, it is not advisable to forgo the use of a moisturiser during this period. You don’t want your skin to become dehydrated as this would just result in it producing more oil, thus affecting the overall sebum balance.

What you could do is use a lighter, gel like moisturiser that nourishes the skin and maintains its hydration without being too rich and greasy.

However for those with very dry skin, it is advisable to use a nourishing moisturiser, what you may do is only use your face cream once per day or morning only.

If you are extremely dry, what you may require over the summer is a hydrating face mist which you could spray onto the face throughout the day. Droseros is a certified organic facial spray which you can use under or over makeup. Infused with oxygen and rose wax it both nourishes and uplifts, exactly what you need to keep cool and hydrated during these long summer days.

Dark under-eye circles begin with the capillaries around the eyes, these are the tiny blood vessels found in the delicate skin around the eyes. Capillaries are so small that red blood cells sometimes have to line up, single file, to get through. Anything that causes damage to the delicate wall of these capillaries will cause the red blood cells to enter the surrounding tissue. This isn’t a problem – it happens all the time – and your body has a mechanism to mop up these red blood cells. Enzymes in your body break down these red blood cells, including their hemoglobin (the molecule that gives them their distinctive red color). This is all fantastic, except for one thing: when hemoglobin is broken down, its remaining components have a dark blue-black color. Just like a bruise. So your dark under-eye circles are actually caused by leaky capillaries.

Dark under-eye circles are like bruises

When something hits you, blood vessels are traumatized and sometimes broken. Blood leaks out into the surrounding skin. Your body begins the mopping-up process, and you see a dark, purplish or blue-black discoloration. Dark under-eye circles are very similar to bruises because the same mechanisms produce them.

Why are dark under-eye circles so visible?

Capillaries all over your body are leaking small amounts of blood all the time, but are not very noticeable. The reason dark under-eye circles are so apparent is the skin around the eyes is the thinnest, skin of your entire body. The capillaries are therefore much closer to the surface of the skin there. The skin around the eye is not only thinner but also more translucent both making dark circle more visible.

The combination of capillaries near the skin’s surface and translucent skin makes this discoloration much more apparent. And that’s why you have those dark under-eye circles staring back at you in the mirror.

What makes dark under-eye circles more obvious?

Any damage to the under eye capillaries can aggravate the appearance of dark under-eye circles. Allergic reactions may also cause capillary damage. Also there may be an underlying medical condition that results in capillaries being easily damaged. Speak to your medical practitioner about this.

What can you do to reduce the appearance of dark under-eye circles?

Be gentle when applying makeup especially concealer to the eye area, aggressive rubbing or pulling of the skin can cause damage to the capillaries.

Drink lots of water (2 litres per day). This helps the body flush out all metabolic wastes.

Treat underlying medical conditions.

Use a light organic eye cream that is free of allergens and toxic ingredients. Massaging in heavy eye creams can aggravate the problem.

With skin care ingredients not being very well regulated, we find so many harmful chemicals finding their way into products we use daily. Even products that claim to be natural or organic can sometimes contain these harmful toxic ingredients.

Although the list is long here are a few of the worst offenders that definitely need to be avoided especially of the product claims to be a natural or organic face cream.

Diazolidinyl Urea

Used as an antiseptic in cosmetics. It may release formaldehyde, known to be highly toxic.

The second most commonly used preservative in personal care products (parabens are first). The American Academy of Dermatology recognizes it as a cause of contact dermatitis. Formaldehyde release is a hazard of this chemical. The CIR Expert Panel is reassessing its safety.

Extensively used for its emulsifying and foaming properties. Associated with allergic reactions and eye irritation. The combination of DEA and DEA-related ingredients is associated with cancer in lab animals. The FDA is currently investigating this link.

Triethanolamine(TEA)

Used as a detergent and dispersing agent. There is high sensitivity to its use. Prolonged contact is particularly irritating. Toxic to lab animals. The CIR Expert Panel recommends use only in small, concentrations, not to exceed over 5%. They also recommend limiting it to rinse off products, such as shampoo. However, some hand and body lotions include it. Combining TEA with nitrates results in cancer-causing nitrosamines.

Parabens are the second most common ingredient in skin care products … water is first. The most widely used preservatives in the United States, they may cause skin rashes and other allergic reactions.

Studies show they possess mild estrogen-like qualities. Preliminary research uncovered parabens in human breast cancer tumors. This does not prove a causal relationship, however. Parabens are ubiquitous. They are an estimated 75-90% of all personal care products. Even many so called “natural” and some organic skin care products contain parabens (check labels!).

There is a gradual phase out of these preservatives occurring in the natural skin care industry. Preservatives are essential. However, there are all natural, nontoxic preservatives that are both safe and effective.

Also known as petroleum jelly. Purified petroleum is common to moisturizers and other cosmetic products. It forms an oily layer on the skin that prevents moisture evaporation. It purportedly smooths and moisturizers skin, but often has the opposite effect. It causes allergic reactions in some. Manufactures love petrolatum because it is very inexpensive (read: a cheap addition for manufacturers).

This is the most common moisture-carrying ingredient, excluding water itself, in personal care products. Extensively used in makeup. It is known to elicit allergic reactions, including hives, and is associated with eczema. Safer glycols are gradually replacing propylene glycol. The CIR Expert Panel maintains its safety in concentrations up to 50%.

Considered toxic. Some individuals develop thesaurosis, which is foreign bodies in the lung, due to inhalation of PVP in hairspray. Rats ingested intravenously with PVP developed tumors.

*Found largely in: bronzers, eye makeup, and hair products.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

A detergent, emulsifier, and wetting agent. It is drying and often irritating to skin. Associated with eczema. The Journal of the American College of Toxicology states this chemical has a “degenerative effect on the cell membranes because of its protein denaturing properties” and that “high levels of skin penetration may occur at even low use concentration.” The CIR Expert Panel is reassessing it for safety.

Acts as a water softener and a foaming and wetting agent. Often in products designed for mildness, such as baby shampoos. Yet it leads to eye and skin irritation in some. The CIR Panel is reexamining its position on this chemical also.

*Found in: shampoos, including baby shampoos.

Stearalkonium Chloride

The Fabric industry developed this as a fabric softener. It softens hair, allowing easier combing. Known to cause allergic reactions and irritation to the skin, eyes, and mucous membranes. Considered toxic. CIR Expert Panel is reassessing for safety guidelines.

*Found in: hair conditioners and creams.

Synthetic colors

Unlike most ingredients used by the industry, synthetic colors are regulated by the FDA. Yet, most are derived from coal tar. Many people are allergic to coal tar. Of greater significance is the association of coal tar and cancer. Most all coal tars cause cancer when subcutaneously injected in lab mice. In fact, many formerly approved colors are now banned in the US because of recognized carcinogenic properties.

Used in a large variety of personal care products, most notably hair dyes. What color is that drugstore shampoo … neon green anyone? Nontoxic all natural skincare products, as opposed to traditional skin care, rely on botanical ingredients for subtle color. This is one of the reasons that Organic Apoteke products vary in color, we are dependent on the combined colors of the natural ingredients we use which vary due to weather conditions and the plants unique manufacturing facility.

Synthetic Fragrances

There may be up to 200 ingredients encompassed by the term “fragrance”. Furthermore, manufactures are not required to disclose actual ingredients in their formulas. They receive protection for such proprietary formulas. Reactions to fragrance in personal care include: coughing, dizziness, headaches, hyper-pigmentation, rash, skin irritation, and vomiting.

I can personally vouch for hyper-pigmentation. I have seen unsightly brown spots on necks of many patients which disappeared when they stopped applying perfume there.

*Synthetic fragrances lurk in the majority of traditional personal care products. Even many so called natural products use synthetic fragrance. To be safe, look for 100% “all natural skin care products.” Natural essential oils are the ideal fragrance.

Firstly, I would like to say a big thank you to our loyal customers for being so patient. The Rejuvenating Face Cream which was voted “best organic face cream” by Healthy magazine is now back in stock. All those on the waiting list (and there are many of you) please bear with us, you should receive your organic face cream within the next few days.

For those waiting to place their orders, please do so as soon as possible. Our products are hand made in small batches to ensure freshness and efficacy. And although we plan ahead to reduce stock outs and shortages, we have been overwhelmed with the demand for this organic face cream. We are therefore limiting orders of the Rejuvenating Face Cream to 3 units per customer.

Skin loses some of its elasticity with age, and muscles within the eyelids lose tone causing what is known as bags under the eyes or puffiness. In addition fat can build up in the eyelid and fluids can accumulate and cause swelling. Puffiness around the eyes can also be caused by allergies or excessive salt consumption. Smoking as well can aggravate this problem.

Here are a few quick tips to help reduce under eye bags or puffiness.

Avoid drinking fluids before bed.

Avoid monosodium glutamate and reduce your salt intake.

Do not smoke and reduce second hand smoke.

Get plenty of sleep

Apply a chilled gel compress or a washcloth soaked in iced water over the eyes. Cold cucumber slices also work. The cold shrinks the swollen blood vessels.

For long term prevention, use eye creams that strengthen the skin and help build the collagen and elastin around the eye area. Eye creams containing bilberry help strengthen the blood vessels and tone veins which prevent puffiness.

I met with a friend over the weekend who has battled with acne for over a decade. He had always maintained that he was acne prone due to his oily skin and hence used harsh cleansing and alcohol laced moisturisers to help dry up the oil. I had believed his skin to be quite dry and therefore producing excess oil to counter the severe dehydration.

Over the years I met many people with a similar problem. This only stressed the importance of using the correct organic moisturiser or face cream for your skin type.

How to know if your skin is dehydrated even though you have acne?

If your skin occasionally feels tight especially after cleansing. Your skin can also feel quite sensitive. Your skin also may feel tight after cleansing but have get oily and shiny after a few hours – this is the skins compensatory mechanism that aggravates the break outs.

What organic moisturiser should you use for dry skin that is acne prone?

You need to use a nourishing organic moisturiser or organic face cream. Seems strange in light of the acne. However when skins dehydrated the negative feedback system kicks in to produce oil. If you nourish and hydrate your skin efficiently, your skin rebalances itself and produces less oil, hence fewer clogged pores and breakouts. Give a moisturiser like the Rejuvenating Face Cream a try.

Organic moisturiser or organic face cream for Oily Skin

If your skin is genuinely oily, you still need to ensure that you do not use a product that dehydrates the skin, as this just encourages it to produce more oil. What you need is an alcohol free, gel like moisturiser as these have a high water content, which will keep skin well hydrated. The skin then does not have to produce excess oil to compensate. Stay away from alcohol and SLS based cleansers and moisturisers. Also use a moisturiser that contains ingredients like neem (Melia azadirachta leaf extract) which has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Make sure that the product is designed to balance sebum production and contains sebum balancing ingredients such as arginine.

This great kit gives you Organic Apoteke’s complete rejuvenating regime. Whether you are new to Organic Apoteke and would like to try the products or are an ardent fan and need smaller sizes to take on holiday. This kit is perfect for you. The kit gives you enough product for about 3 weeks. Each of these products have wonderful anti-aging benefits. However when used in combination optimal results are seen.

Phenoxyethanol, glycol ether often derived from natural sources, is a popular antibacterial and preservative chemical, used by many so called natural and organic skin care brands. It is also used in many vaccines and bug repellants.

A few beauty brands marketed as the greenest in the industry use phenoxyethanol as a preservative, suggesting that it is derived from grapefruit. Well, cocamide DEA is derived from coconut but this doesn’t make it any less toxic!

Chemically known as ethylene glycol phenyl ether or ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, phenoxyethanol is an ethoxylated compound that may be contaminated with carcinogenic toxin 1,4-Dioxane.

According to Journal of Industrial Hygiene and Toxicology, phenoxyethanol affected brain and nervous system in animals at moderate doses. In 1990 Journal of the American College of Toxicology reported that phenoxyethanol also acts as an endocrine disruptor that also caused damage to bladder and acute pulmonary edema in animals. Early 1980s studies also suggest that phenoxyethanol can cause DNA mutations – again, only in animals, as it was not tested on humans.

Phenoxyethanol is a scientifically proven irritant to human skin and eyes (Comparison of objective and sensory skin irritations of several cosmetic preservatives. Lee E, An S, Choi D, Moon S, Chang I. Contact Dermatitis. 2007 Mar;56(3):131-6.) and it is classified as irritant in European Union. Phenoxyethanol is also restricted for use in Japan.

No matter what the studies say, phenoxyethanol is deemed perfectly safe for use in cosmetics in the U.S. and UK in concentrations of up to 1 percent. This means, a 200 ml bottle of shampoo contains a teaspoon of phenoxyethanol!

The most surprising it that the Soil Association, the organic certification body in the UK permits the use of phenoxyethanol in products that it certifies organic. Please read the organic ingredients on products.

All Organic Apoteke products are free of phenoxyethanol and phenoxyethanol residues.