They're 194 bulbs. Available at any auto parts store. Or you can get LED replacements. (Look for 194 or T10) There are 4 bulbs that light up the instruments.

You'll have to remove the instrument panel to replace them. Remove windshield, the pieces with the faring pockets, and then the panel that surrounds the instruments. The instrument panel takes 2x 10mm bolts, just below it, to remove. Unscrew the speedometer cable, and you're set. There's a metal bracket on the back that has to be removed to get a couple of the bulbs out, but it is easy to see how to do it once you have the panel in your hand.

If you get LEDs, make sure they light up before you reassemble everything. LEDs are polarized, and (most) won't work unless they are installed in the correct orientation.

I did the entire instrument panel with LEDs. In my opinion, it was well worth it since I was in there anyway.

A few things to note if you're going to replace everything with LEDs.

If you're replacing the indicator lights, use the same color LED as the indicator light. GREEN for turn signals and neutral, RED for oil pressure, and BLUE for high beam.

With the usual 194 LED replacement, the HIGH BEAM indicator will be EXTREMELY BRIGHT at night. You don't want that. Get something like this one.

The clock uses a different size bulb. It's a 74 (T5) size.

You can pick a nice color for your dash. I went with blue and am quite happy with it.

Be careful, you might find you're addicted to LEDs. I have replaced every bulb on my bike with LEDs. (Except for the license plate light, which I have the parts for but haven't done yet.) Yes, even my headlight is LED.

I don't know of anyone currently selling a kit, but here's what you need.

4x 194 (T10) bulbs for the instruments. Pick a color, or stick with white.

If ALL of your dash lights went out at once, the chance of it being bulbs all burning out is slim (but not impossible).

I'd start out checking the fuse as CRocker suggested. Just replace it. Sometimes it looks good and it isn't.You may also have a loose connector or bad ground in the lighting circuit. There's a lot of vibration on a motorcycle, sometimes things shimmy loose.

They're 194 bulbs. Available at any auto parts store. Or you can get LED replacements. (Look for 194 or T10) There are 4 bulbs that light up the instruments.

You'll have to remove the instrument panel to replace them. Remove windshield, the pieces with the faring pockets, and then the panel that surrounds the instruments. The instrument panel takes 2x 10mm bolts, just below it, to remove. Unscrew the speedometer cable, and you're set. There's a metal bracket on the back that has to be removed to get a couple of the bulbs out, but it is easy to see how to do it once you have the panel in your hand.

If you get LEDs, make sure they light up before you reassemble everything. LEDs are polarized, and (most) won't work unless they are installed in the correct orientation.

I did the entire instrument panel with LEDs. In my opinion, it was well worth it since I was in there anyway.

A few things to note if you're going to replace everything with LEDs.

If you're replacing the indicator lights, use the same color LED as the indicator light. GREEN for turn signals and neutral, RED for oil pressure, and BLUE for high beam.

With the usual 194 LED replacement, the HIGH BEAM indicator will be EXTREMELY BRIGHT at night. You don't want that. Get something like this one.

The clock uses a different size bulb. It's a 74 (T5) size.

You can pick a nice color for your dash. I went with blue and am quite happy with it.

Be careful, you might find you're addicted to LEDs. I have replaced every bulb on my bike with LEDs. (Except for the license plate light, which I have the parts for but haven't done yet.) Yes, even my headlight is LED.

I don't know of anyone currently selling a kit, but here's what you need.

4x 194 (T10) bulbs for the instruments. Pick a color, or stick with white.

1x 74 (T5) bulb for the clock. Again, pick a color.

3x 194 (T10) GREEN for turn signals and neutral.

1X 194 (T10) RED for oil pressure.

1X 194 (T10) BLUE for high beam. (See above)

^ Thank you! This is incredibly detailed and contains all the info I was looking for and more! Wow! This place still surprises me with how helpful folks are. Guess I should know by now.

FYI; I tried the LED bulbs in the dash of my C-10. For the indicators, they worked fine.

For lighting the dash, didn't like them. The bluish color didn't highlight the speedo etc.So, I went back to the 194's to light the dash. I suggest you do the same,.If you go with the LED's, Hopefully you can get a whiter LED and avoid the bluish colored bulbs...

Note that I didn't like how bright the neutral light was and switched back to the original. I really like how bright the directional lights are. I don't believe I've left them on since replacing the bulbs. Note: this is for my 1999 C10. I seem to recall that some of the lights (directionals?) are a different color in earlier models.

I tried a number of cheapie eBay LED sets for the dash lights and they all died pretty quickly. Do yours last a while, and if so, what type did you get?

I've so far used two different LED headlights. Both were plug-and-play, and I liked both of them.

The first one I used looked like this:I like it. When you switch to high beam, both the high and low LED stayed on, throwing a lot of light in front of the bike. However, the high didn't seem quite adequate to me, but I like a LOT of light in front of my bike. (As anyone who has ridden with me knows. ) The high beam seemed to disperse the light too wide. But it did work well.

The second one, I just put in the other day and don't have adequate night riding to really give an accurate review:The high beam is MUCH more focused, and seems to be better to me. The low is nice and wide, but seems like it might be a little higher than I'd like and might get into oncoming drivers' eyes. (I might be able to just adjust my headlight down a bit and alleviate the issue) I've only ridden once at night with it, so I'll have to get out more and ride and see if I get flashed a lot. So far, though, I like it better than the first one.

As for the 194s, I picked up a bag of cheap ones off of Ebay. They've been in all season and so far are fine. I have some extra if one or more fail, but so far they all work. I Intentionally got blue bulbs, and like how my dash looks.

Note that I didn't like how bright the neutral light was and switched back to the original. I really like how bright the directional lights are.

I ordered the same series of bulbs as WG did, with the exception of using the green bulbs in the instrument cluster too rather than white. The green back lighting is brighter than stock, looks good, and still "works" well with the instrument color schemes (The blue looks cool in other peoples pictures, but many have commented how the blue doesn't really illuminate very well). The light pattern illuminates the instruments effectively and evenly - no hot spots. It's really nice to also be able to read the clock at a glance at night.

I agree the neutral light is very bright, but I'm okay with mine the way it is. The problem I have is the high beam indicator. I DO ride at night, and I DO use my high beams, and the blue high beam indicator is bright enough to be distracting and I'm sure hinders my night vision to some degree. The bulbs WG and I both ordered are brighter than the original 194's. I'll probably be ordering something less intense for my winter commuting.

The same company sells other LED replacements for 194's; some are brighter than stock, some are less so. Their product specification pages are really helpful; note that specifications are often different for each color. When ordering, also check if the bulb is over-sized or not.

People's results fro LED's purchased on eBay or other sources seems to be hit and miss. I've made a couple buys from Superbrightleds over the years and have not been disappointed. Their product descriptions have been accurate enough to differentiate their products, and everything I've used has stood up to the elements so far.

The problem I have is the high beam indicator. I DO ride at night, and I DO use my high beams, and the blue high beam indicator is bright enough to be distracting and I'm sure hinders my night vision to some degree. The bulbs WG and I both ordered are brighter than the original 194's. I'll probably be ordering something less intense for my winter commuting.

Use ones like the ones I linked to above. The LEDs on them go out to the side, instead of having one that shoots directly at you. The high beam indicator on mine is now a little brighter than stock, but not much.

Or, be more frugal, and try putting a dot of black paint over the LED at the top of the array.

1. Brake lights out? Then the lighting circuit is down - Check fuse, loose connections, bad ground, etc.2. Just dash lights? Double-check fuse (yea, if brake's working it *should* be fine, but as Pops always said: K.I.S.S.)3. Check wiring - corrosion in connectors can be sneaky. Check the dash light circuit, and double check the ground.

These kinds of problems are often pretty straightforward, in that you have little choice in the approach (though it can be tedious). Start from the power source and verify the path to the component (with a meter or a test light).

Note that I didn't like how bright the neutral light was and switched back to the original.

I did the conversion using these (though I used the WLED-B5 Blue for the background lights instead of the WLED-CW5 Cool White). I agree that the neutral light is too bright when using the WLED-G6; I can see it flash when shifting between first and second, especially at night. I've ordered a couple of other alternatives to see if they work out better for me. I'm also going to try the WLED-G5 Green and see if I like that color better for the dials.

I like the brightness of the WLED-G6 for the directionals. Between that and the beeper SISF had installed before I bought the bike, I have no excuse for going down the road looking like an idiot with my turn signal flashing.

The WLED-x5 lights are a little larger in diameter than the stock incandescent 194. I noticed that I had to angle them in a little to get them to slide into the back of the dash.

My latest(!) order from Superbrightleds.com arrived yesterday and I had a few minutes before nightfall to pull the dash and change the lights out.

I replaced the WLED-G6 on the neutral indicator with a WLED-G-90. It's a single LED with 90 degree beam angle (also available in a 120). This is the green version of the blue WLED-B-90 that I used in the high beam indicator. It looks like it will be visible enough in the daylight, yet not so bright that the flash on shifting first to second catches my eye.

I also changed out the WLED-B5 blue lights I used as the dash lights originally for the WLED-G5 (green). I think this is how I'm going to leave it. For some reason, the green seems to match the personality of the bike better in my mind.

My old eyes didn't like the original (blueish hugh) LED's that were offered for the C-10, so I installed std incandescent's.Need to go back in as some have burnt out.Is the {4 WLED-G5 Green (backlighting)} also offered as a white/White? (not bluish/white)