Nina Ricci

Olivier Theyskens called his 16-look pre-fall lineup a "micro-show." Micro, in more ways than one: His dove-print silk dresses, miniskirt suits, and briefs were all thigh-baring. A pair of motorcycle jackets—one in black leather and the other in lipstick red ponyskin—played into the designer's other talking point, rockabilly, as did the over-the-knee shearling boots with clear resin heels modeled on L'Air du Temps perfume bottles. But the collection was not without its romantic moments. Case in point: a light-as-air long belted navy dress with billowy sleeves and a suggestive slit.