Province, 161 N. Jefferson St., Chicago

Who eats: West Loop techies, investment bankers, other business types. Why eat: Reasonably priced, upscale food in an impressive setting. Ambience: The space, in short, is comfortable. With super-high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, the room is bright and airy. Province is LEED Gold certified, another way of saying it's on the leading edge of environmental responsibility. On its menu, presented on a papier mache-like clipboard undoubtedly made out of recycled materials, the restaurant pronounces itself as "constructed using eco-friendly, sustainable materials." The design is wonderfully understated and modern, with painted concrete floors, elegant window treatments and a fuchsia accent wall. Five naked trees suspended from the ceiling draw attention, as does a glass-encased wine cellar. A stream of cool-kid music plays on the PA ¿ think Phoenix, M83 and Bon Iver. Dress code: A lot of suits and other workday formalwear. Some jeans and flannels. Noise factor: Tables are well-spaced and acoustics are good, so conversation is easy. Overheard: "I don't really like my job that much." Service: Mixed. On a recent Monday visit, our server was upbeat and helpful. A server on a previous visit was not unfriendly, just not really friendly. But she did handle a miscue with professionalism. When a piece of foreign matter was found at the bottom of a dish during our first go-round, the server quickly apologized and whisked it away. A manager type returned to apologize and removed the $14 dish from our bill. Cellphone reception/Wi-Fi: Full cell. Reservations: Accepted, but not required. We visited at the height of the lunch rush two weeks in a row and were seated promptly both times. Menu: New American, but inspired by warmer climes with a focus on locally sourced ingredients, when available. Reliable options: The $18 three-course business lunch pairs choices off the menu at a nice discount. Diners can choose from two starters, three entrees and a scoop of house-made ice cream, sorbet or frozen yogurt for dessert. The beet and orange starter ($8) offered nice balance, with the sweet and acidic citrus playing nicely off earthy red beets and a creamy goat cheese whip. Another of Province's small plates, a flatbread with leeks, mushrooms, smoked peppers and manchego cheese ($7), presented a different take, with a chewy crust made of masa instead of a traditional flour-based dough. A bass ceviche ($10) was beautifully composed and visually appealing, but the fish was rendered into a single note, overwhelmed by the acidic mix of tomatillos, onion, lime and chilies. An open-faced smoked salmon sandwich ($12) offered as a main course was well-executed but pedestrian, and the $12 cheddar burger had all the makings of a top-flight sandwich had it not arrived rare instead of medium, as requested. Two of our favorite dishes were the sides (each $4): The Kennebec potato frites, well-seasoned and perfectly crispy, are some of the best in town, especially when paired with Province's smoky and slightly spicy house-made ketchup. Brussels sprouts, a large portion, are slightly seared and bathed in a delicious brown butter. Expect to pay: $25-$30 per person, including tax and tip. Contacts: 312-669-9900; chicago.provincerestaurant.com Peter Frost

Who eats: West Loop techies, investment bankers, other business types. Why eat: Reasonably priced, upscale food in an impressive setting. Ambience: The space, in short, is comfortable. With super-high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, the room is bright and airy. Province is LEED Gold certified, another way of saying it's on the leading edge of environmental responsibility. On its menu, presented on a papier mache-like clipboard undoubtedly made out of recycled materials, the restaurant pronounces itself as "constructed using eco-friendly, sustainable materials." The design is wonderfully understated and modern, with painted concrete floors, elegant window treatments and a fuchsia accent wall. Five naked trees suspended from the ceiling draw attention, as does a glass-encased wine cellar. A stream of cool-kid music plays on the PA ¿ think Phoenix, M83 and Bon Iver. Dress code: A lot of suits and other workday formalwear. Some jeans and flannels. Noise factor: Tables are well-spaced and acoustics are good, so conversation is easy. Overheard: "I don't really like my job that much." Service: Mixed. On a recent Monday visit, our server was upbeat and helpful. A server on a previous visit was not unfriendly, just not really friendly. But she did handle a miscue with professionalism. When a piece of foreign matter was found at the bottom of a dish during our first go-round, the server quickly apologized and whisked it away. A manager type returned to apologize and removed the $14 dish from our bill. Cellphone reception/Wi-Fi: Full cell. Reservations: Accepted, but not required. We visited at the height of the lunch rush two weeks in a row and were seated promptly both times. Menu: New American, but inspired by warmer climes with a focus on locally sourced ingredients, when available. Reliable options: The $18 three-course business lunch pairs choices off the menu at a nice discount. Diners can choose from two starters, three entrees and a scoop of house-made ice cream, sorbet or frozen yogurt for dessert. The beet and orange starter ($8) offered nice balance, with the sweet and acidic citrus playing nicely off earthy red beets and a creamy goat cheese whip. Another of Province's small plates, a flatbread with leeks, mushrooms, smoked peppers and manchego cheese ($7), presented a different take, with a chewy crust made of masa instead of a traditional flour-based dough. A bass ceviche ($10) was beautifully composed and visually appealing, but the fish was rendered into a single note, overwhelmed by the acidic mix of tomatillos, onion, lime and chilies. An open-faced smoked salmon sandwich ($12) offered as a main course was well-executed but pedestrian, and the $12 cheddar burger had all the makings of a top-flight sandwich had it not arrived rare instead of medium, as requested. Two of our favorite dishes were the sides (each $4): The Kennebec potato frites, well-seasoned and perfectly crispy, are some of the best in town, especially when paired with Province's smoky and slightly spicy house-made ketchup. Brussels sprouts, a large portion, are slightly seared and bathed in a delicious brown butter. Expect to pay: $25-$30 per person, including tax and tip. Contacts: 312-669-9900; chicago.provincerestaurant.com Peter Frost

Who eats: West Loop techies, investment bankers, other business types. Why eat: Reasonably priced, upscale food in an impressive setting. Ambience: The space, in short, is comfortable. With super-high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, the room is bright and airy. Province is LEED Gold certified, another way of saying it's on the leading edge of environmental responsibility. On its menu, presented on a papier mache-like clipboard undoubtedly made out of recycled materials, the restaurant pronounces itself as "constructed using eco-friendly, sustainable materials." The design is wonderfully understated and modern, with painted concrete floors, elegant window treatments and a fuchsia accent wall. Five naked trees suspended from the ceiling draw attention, as does a glass-encased wine cellar. A stream of cool-kid music plays on the PA ¿ think Phoenix, M83 and Bon Iver. Dress code: A lot of suits and other workday formalwear. Some jeans and flannels. Noise factor: Tables are well-spaced and acoustics are good, so conversation is easy. Overheard: "I don't really like my job that much." Service: Mixed. On a recent Monday visit, our server was upbeat and helpful. A server on a previous visit was not unfriendly, just not really friendly. But she did handle a miscue with professionalism. When a piece of foreign matter was found at the bottom of a dish during our first go-round, the server quickly apologized and whisked it away. A manager type returned to apologize and removed the $14 dish from our bill. Cellphone reception/Wi-Fi: Full cell. Reservations: Accepted, but not required. We visited at the height of the lunch rush two weeks in a row and were seated promptly both times. Menu: New American, but inspired by warmer climes with a focus on locally sourced ingredients, when available. Reliable options: The $18 three-course business lunch pairs choices off the menu at a nice discount. Diners can choose from two starters, three entrees and a scoop of house-made ice cream, sorbet or frozen yogurt for dessert. The beet and orange starter ($8) offered nice balance, with the sweet and acidic citrus playing nicely off earthy red beets and a creamy goat cheese whip. Another of Province's small plates, a flatbread with leeks, mushrooms, smoked peppers and manchego cheese ($7), presented a different take, with a chewy crust made of masa instead of a traditional flour-based dough. A bass ceviche ($10) was beautifully composed and visually appealing, but the fish was rendered into a single note, overwhelmed by the acidic mix of tomatillos, onion, lime and chilies. An open-faced smoked salmon sandwich ($12) offered as a main course was well-executed but pedestrian, and the $12 cheddar burger had all the makings of a top-flight sandwich had it not arrived rare instead of medium, as requested. Two of our favorite dishes were the sides (each $4): The Kennebec potato frites, well-seasoned and perfectly crispy, are some of the best in town, especially when paired with Province's smoky and slightly spicy house-made ketchup. Brussels sprouts, a large portion, are slightly seared and bathed in a delicious brown butter. Expect to pay: $25-$30 per person, including tax and tip. Contacts: 312-669-9900; chicago.provincerestaurant.com Peter Frost