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Since I am not doing code work they lay in the box until used. No rod oven. FYI unless you buy the hermetically sealed containers they are already exposed. The cardboard or plastic container does not seal. I would imagine for what your using them for no rod oven needed.

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Simple answer would be a small rod oven I've seen guys with them the smallest one I've seen is slightly bigger than a 50lbs rod can so I assume it can hold the whole 50lbs. Where ever they park there rig is probably where the plug the oven in when they are not on a job and during a job just plug it into whatever power source they have

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If I need to weld something that critical then I will buy them for that job usually in smaller containers. So it's not one big thing that's been "opened". That said, I have leftover junk rod all over my garage bought in garage sales, past jobs etc... I don't know off the top of my head but there is "allegedly" a way to recondition LH rod in your home oven if its not in too bad shape (ruined flux, rusted etc....). I'm no expert though.

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I keep mine in these rod holder and have not had any problems. If moisture was was super critical I would think you would have to get the moisture out of the steel you're welding on too. http://www.rodguard.net/

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I agree with sberry on this. Except for small amounts trapped in rust or scale on the surface the steel, unless it is porous, steel has no water in it. Steel is produced at upwards of 2500 degrees and no water lives there. The condition you observe is caused by moisture in the warm air of your torch condensing in the colder air and on the colder surface of the steel. The dew point in your flame and in the surrounding air are different. We see this often in our work where we pour molten metal into metal moulds. We always preheat to eliminate the possibility of moisture as the moulds are iron and they rust which can trap moisture on the surface. Failure to preheat can result in a steam driven explosion that can give the worker a faceful of molten metal. Not a fun day, been there done that and don't want to try it again.---Meltedmetal

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tackit
I think thats correct. Part of preheating is about driving off residual moisture.

Thanks for all the replies!

One thing not answered which I would still like to know is how you all handle large spools of wire that last for more than a couple weeks? Isnt rust a problem in the summer?

Where I live winter going into spring makes tons of moisture, it puts a light coat of rust on all steel that's not been oiled or chromed. Summer here is pretty dry.... never have problems with rust during summer months..

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Some wire comes with a special moisture resistant or absorbent paper over wire & inside a sealed plastic bag. I save the paper (keep in a zip lock bag) when take off a roll of wire even if it didn't come with one, I place paper over wire (it's directional) then put in a big zip lock bag or put in original bag & seal with tape.
Another trick is to save the little moisture pacs or paper that come in parts or buy them & do the same. Keeps moisture off wire wile not in use.
I also keep in a room on shelf off floor.
Another tip is to keep shop at constant temp, doesn't need to be warm just keep from drastic temp changes. I hv in floor heat & keep it at 59-60 deg. year round even spring & fall, keeps temp from dropping on cool nights. Helps keep rust on metal and also equipment at mim.
Metal oxidizes and that's kinda what rust is after time. It's good to read up on & understand as it relates to metal.
If u do any blacksmith work it starts as soon as u pull a piece of metal out of forge. U can hv scale by the time u hit the anvil, it is by far not your friend especially if u ever try & forge weld.
Hope it helps.