Utahconstituent state of the United States of America. Mountains, high plateaus, and deserts form most of its landscape. The state’s 84,899 square miles (219,889 square kilometres) lie in the capital, Salt Lake City, is located in the north-central region of the state. The state lies in the heart of the West , with and is bounded by Idaho to the north, Wyoming to the northeast, Colorado to the east, Arizona to the south, and Nevada to the west. At Four Corners, in the southeast, Utah meets Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona at right angles, the only such meeting of states in the nation. The capital is Salt Lake City. The state country. Utah became the 45th member of the Union on Jan. 4, 1896.

Utah represents a unique episode in the settlement of the United States, a story of a religious group that trekked and was driven across three-quarters fourths of the continent in search of a “promised land.” land” where they could be free from persecution. Salt Lake City is the world headquarters of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, commonly known as the Mormon church, and the spiritual home of adherents throughout the world. With Mormons making up nearly 70 percent seven-tenths of the state’s population, the beliefs and traditions of the Mormon church continue to exert profound influences on many facets of the state’s life and institutions.

Before the arrival of the first Mormon pioneers, Utah was inhabited by several Indian Native American tribes, including the Ute, for whom the state is named. From the beginning of Mormon settlement in 1847, the pioneers set about wresting a green land from the deserts, gradually supplementing their crops with the products of industry and the earth. The economy of present-day Utah is based on manufacturing, tourism, and services, in addition to agriculture and mining.

The Colorado Plateau comprises slightly more than half of Utah. Relatively high in elevation, this region is cut by brilliantly coloured canyons.

Utah’s growing tourist industry relies upon the attraction of the region’s fiery, intricately sculptured natural bridges, arches, and other masterpieces of erosion.

The western third of the state is part of the Great Basin of the Basin and Range Province, a broad, flat, desertlike area with occasional mountain peaks. The Great Salt Lake lies in the northeastern part of the region

: to

. To the southwest of the lake is the Great Salt Lake Desert, covering some 4,000 square miles (10,500 square km), which include the Bonneville Salt Flats,

famous for land speed racing. During the Pleistocene epoch, from 1,600,000 to 10,000 years ago, the region’s huge Lake Bonneville covered an area as large as Lake Michigan. Great Salt Lake, saline Sevier Lake, and Utah Lake are the remnants of Lake Bonneville.

the site of many automobile and motorcycle land-speed trials.

The Middle Rockies in the northeast comprise the Uinta Mountains, the only major mountain range in the United States running in an

east–west

east-west direction, and the Wasatch Range. Along the latter runs a series of valleys and plateaus known as the Wasatch Front. The Wasatch Range exhibits many glacially formed features such as cirques and moraines. Canyons have been formed by various streams.

Altitudes

Elevations range from 13,528 feet (4,123 metres) at Kings Peak in the Uintas to about 2,

000

350 feet (715 metres) in the southwestern corner of the state. The Oquirrh and Deep Creek ranges of the Great Basin are important for their deposits of copper, gold, lead, and zinc.

Drainage

Utah contributes to three major drainage areas—the Colorado and Columbia rivers and the Great Basin. The Colorado and its tributary, the Green, drain eastern Utah. The

Upper

Colorado River Storage Project includes several dams and many lakes in that area. Rivers in the central and western

part

parts of the state include the Bear, Weber, Provo, Jordan, and Sevier, all of which flow into the Great Basin. The Raft River and Goose Creek, in the northwestern corner of the state, feed into the Snake River, part of the Columbia River drainage. All of the river systems are important for their irrigation and power potential.

Irrigation was among the first Mormon pioneer efforts in 1847, and since then irrigation and water conservation have become increasingly important. The irrigation complex in Utah comprises a number of dams, reservoirs, canals and ditches, pipelines, and flowing wells, exclusive of the large Glen Canyon and Flaming Gorge dams. State boards and departments regulate water use, while the division of health maintains water-quality

water

standards under the Water Pollution Control Act of 1953.

During the Pleistocene Epoch, from about 1,800,000 to 12,000 years ago, the region’s huge Lake Bonneville covered an area as large as Lake Michigan. The Great Salt Lake, saline Sevier Lake, and freshwater Utah Lake are the major remnants of Lake Bonneville.

Soils

The desert soil that covers most of the state lacks many organic materials but contains lime. Lack of adequate drainage in the Great Basin has damaged surrounding soils with saline materials and alkali salts. The richest soils are in the centre of the state, from the Idaho border almost to Arizona, where most

of the

farming is done. Mountain soils provide a habitat for conifers and other trees.

Climate

Utah’s geographic location in relation to the mountain systems of the West, which divert much of the area’s precipitation, makes it basically an arid state. Southwestern Utah, which has a warm, almost dry, subtropical climate, however, is referred to as Utah’s “Dixie.” The southern part of the Colorado Plateau has cool, dry winters and wet summers, with frequent thunderstorms. Northern Utah is affected by air masses from the

North

northern Pacific Ocean and continental polar air; it receives most of its precipitation in the cool season.

The state has four distinct seasons. The average temperature in July is

about 70°

in the low 70s F (

21° C

about 21 °C). In winter the average temperature is slightly below freezing except in Dixie. Daily temperatures vary widely: when Salt Lake City has July highs of

90° F (32° C

90 °F (32 °C) or above,

the nights are 55° to 65° F (13° to 18° C

nighttime temperatures range from the mid-50s to the mid-60s F (about 13 to 18 °C). Relatively low humidity prevails; average precipitation is about 11 inches (280

millimetres

mm) a year, varying from less than

eight inches annually

8 inches (200 mm) over the Great Salt Lake Desert to 50 inches (1,280 mm) in the Wasatch Mountains. The average annual snowfall is about 4

12 feet

.5 feet (1.5 metres), ranging from none in the southwestern valleys to more than 10 feet (3 metres) at ski resorts. The average growing season is 131 days.

Plant and animal lifeUtah’s

Approximately 4,000 plant species

represent six

grow in Utah’s widely varying climatic zones, from the

arid Lower Sonoran in the southwestern Virgin Valley to the Arctic on

deserts of the southwest, the Great Basin, and the Canyonlands to the tundra of the high mountain peaks. In the south are found creosote bush, mesquite, cactus, yucca, and Joshua tree; the alkaline deserts are the habitat of shad scale, saltbush, and greasewood. Juniper and sagebrush grow in the foothills and mountain valleys, as do piñon pine

The mule deer is the most common of Utah’s large animals, since bison, timber wolves, and grizzly bears have largely disappeared. Rocky Mountain elk are also common at higher elevations. Coyotes, bobcats, and lynx are hunted to protect livestock. Game birds include grouse, quail, and pheasants; golden eagles, hawks, owls, and magpies are numerous. Great Salt Lake bird refuges are

the

home

of

to sea gulls, blue herons, and white pelicans. Several species of game fish, including the state fish, the Bonneville cutthroat trout, are native, while others have been introduced.

Reptiles

Also native are dozens of species of reptiles and amphibians, both poisonous and nonpoisonous

, are native.

Settlement patterns

About two-thirds of Utah’s land is federally owned, and 7 percent is owned by the state. About 4 percent is reserved for Indian use.

The Wasatch Front, extending north–south from Ogden to Provo and including Salt Lake City, is the main area of urban and industrial development. Salt Lake City is the political, cultural, and religious capital of Utah. Historically a trade centre, it continues to be a hub for industry, commerce, and interstate transportation.

The Front has not only the largest part of the population but also the best farmland in the state. Although tens of thousands of acres of cropland have been urbanized since 1958 and an urban trend continues, a rural society is still observable. Rural settlements typically have a “Mormon village” flavour, with a readily recognizable Mormon chapel or tabernacle within the town, wide streets, and a cultivated area surrounding the town itself.

The people

The population is about 95 percent white, mainly of northern European ancestry. The remainder are Hispanics, Indians, Asians, blacks, and other minorities. Except for Indians, nearly 80 percent .

People

Population composition

The population is virtually all of European ancestry, mainly northern European. There are small proportions of Asians, Hispanics, Native Americans, and African Americans. Additionally, in the late 20th century, the number of Hawaiians and other Pacific Islanders increased; many of them were converts to Mormonism who relocated to Salt Lake City. Except for Native Americans, nearly four-fifths of the minority population lives in the three Wasatch Front counties of Salt Lake, Davis, and Weber.

The population of San Juan county is about one-half IndianNative American, containing almost 30 percent of Utah’s Indiansnearly one-third of the state’s total Native American population. These are mostly Navajo, who reside primarily in the Four Corners region of the Navajo Indian Reservation. The Ute live on the Uintah and Ouray Indian Reservation. Annually sponsored events include the bear dance in the spring, the Sun Dance in July, and the Uinta Basin Industrial Fair in August or September. A number of Southern PaiutesPaiute, among the most economically depressed of the tribes, live on several small reservations in southern Utah.

People of Hispanic origin constitute the state’s largest minority group. Increasing attention is being paid to the problems of educating and acculturating this group, many of whom are low-income workers in agriculture, mining, manufacturing, and services.

Although Mormons represent 90 percent the majority of all religious adherents in Utah, Roman Catholics can be found throughout the state. Baptists, Lutherans, and other Protestant denominations, as well as non-Christian faiths, are also represented.

The economyFrom 1847 to 1868 the Mormons

Settlement patterns

About two-thirds of Utah’s land is federally owned, and a little less than one-tenth is owned by the state. A small proportion is reserved for Native American use.

The Wasatch Front (often shortened to “the Front”), extending some 105 miles (170 km) north-south from Brigham City to Provo and including Salt Lake City, is the main area of urban and industrial development; more than three-fourths of the state’s total population lives there. Salt Lake City is the political, cultural, and religious capital of Utah. Historically a trade centre, it continues to be a hub for industry, commerce, and interstate transportation.

The Front has not only the largest part of the population but also the best farmland in the state. Although tens of thousands of acres of cropland have been urbanized since the mid-20th century, and an urban trend continues, a rural society is still observable, especially in the north and south. Rural settlements typically have a “Mormon village” flavour, with a readily recognizable Mormon chapel or tabernacle within the town, wide streets, well-tended public parks, and a cultivated area surrounding the town itself.

Economy

The early Mormon settlers, beginning in 1847, built a self-sufficient economy based on agriculture, handicrafts, and small industry.

From 1869 to 1896

With the arrival in the late 1860s of a large number of other settlers, this cooperative economy was supplemented by a non-Mormon enclave devoted to mining, an activity that went against Mormon doctrine, and to trading. After statehood the exportable resources of the state were exploited to an increasing extent by outside corporations and

enterprisers

enterprises, and the agriculture of the state turned toward range cattle, wool, and such commercial crops as alfalfa (lucerne) and sugar beets. The economic depressions of 1921 and

of

the 1930s were severe, but federal programs and the welfare program of the Mormon church helped the state to recover. During World War II several defense plants and air bases were built, and southeastern Utah had a uranium boom. In the late 1950s several large plants were erected along the Wasatch Front to build rocket engines for missiles.

The state’s economy is highly diversified. The agricultural and mining sectors have been supplemented by light and heavy manufacturing, finance, transportation, and tourism. Salt Lake City is a regional centre of finance and trade, and many large enterprises have offices there.

MiningA fair percentage of the nation’s new copper is produced annually in Utah, but a decline in world copper prices in the 1980s brought Utah’s copper production facilities to a standstill by 1985. Reorganization of the industry has allowed some production to continue. Utah is the world’s foremost producer of beryllium, and it is Agriculture and forestry

Following the national trend, farm employment and the number of farms in Utah declined throughout the late 20th century, while agricultural productivity increased. Small farming remains important in the Sevier River valley, but agribusiness is prominent in other areas in the state. Almost three-fourths of Utah’s farm income comes from livestock products, and the remainder from field crops, fruit, and canning crops. Forests cover nearly one-third of Utah, but only about one-fifth of the forestland is used commercially.

Resources and power

In the early 21st century, Utah consistently ranked high among the states in nonfuel mineral production. Among its top mineral products were beryllium, of which Utah was the only producer in the United States, and copper; the Kennecott Bingham Canyon Mine, in the Oquirrh Mountains, has produced more copper than any other mine in the world. The state is also a major producer of gold, silver,

lead,

uranium, and molybdenum. Salt

(sodium chloride)

was once the only mineral extracted in quantity from the Great Salt Lake, but sophisticated chemical industries now operate on the shores of the lake, using its brines to also produce magnesium, halite, potassium sulfate, and sodium sulfate for industrial use throughout the world.

Utah is one of the United States’s major producers of coal west of the Mississippi, and

it is

almost all of the state’s power is generated by coal and natural gas. A much smaller amount comes from hydroelectric and other renewable sources. Utah is the only state producing

Gilsonite

gilsonite, a source of road oil, paving binder, and asphalt tile.

In addition to steam plants, Utah has many hydroelectric plants.

Agriculture

Following the national trend, farm employment and the number of farms in Utah have declined since 1960, but productivity has increased. Almost three-fourths of Utah’s farm income comes from livestock products, the remainder from field crops, fruit, and canning crops.

IndustryBusiness and military services and state and federal government employment continue to increase at a faster rate than other sectors of the economy. Manufacturing

The proportion of personal income derived from manufacturing is below the national average

, however

. Printing and publishing, food processing, petroleum refining, and the production of transportation equipment, computer hardware and software, nonelectrical machinery, rocket engines, and fabricated-metal products are the major manufacturing sectors.

TransportationUtah’s transportation industry

Services and taxation

Employment in business and military services, state and federal government, and tourism continues to increase at a faster rate than other sectors of the economy. The tourism sector relies upon the attraction of the region’s fiery, intricately sculptured natural bridges, arches, and other masterpieces of erosion. Another draw for tourists is skiing; the state has more than a dozen ski resorts, including several located in the area of Park City.

Utah’s broadly based tax structure appears to distribute the costs of government among all segments of the economy. The corporate income tax rate is lower than that of most Western states. A liberal free-port tax law granting tax exemptions on goods warehoused and processed in Utah is an incentive to commerce.

Transportation

Utah’s transportation system, with easy access to all national markets, is the basis for the state’s development as a major distribution centre for the West.

Although

As in much of the country since the mid-20th century, railway mileage has decreased

,

while road traffic has expanded; several interstate highways supplement the state system. A major east-west Amtrak national passenger route serves cities in Utah’s north and central regions. In addition to the international airport serving Salt Lake City, there are excellent feeder line facilities in Ogden, Logan, Provo, Cedar City, and

St.

Saint George.

Administration and social conditionsGovernment

Government and society

Constitutional framework

Utah’s constitution

, dating

dates from statehood

,

(1895). It guarantees basic personal freedoms consistent with the federal Bill of Rights, prohibits sectarian control of public schools, forbids “polygamous or plural

marriages,” and

marriages”—although the mainstream Mormon church has officially disavowed polygamy since 1890, a number of sects still practice it in Utah and elsewhere—and grants equal civil, political, and religious rights, including suffrage, to all citizens. Voting requirements follow national patterns, though for elections affecting tax levies, a voter must have paid a property tax the previous year.

The governor is aided by a jointly elected lieutenant governor (who also performs the duties of a secretary of state), as well as an auditor, treasurer, and attorney general

, while much

. Much of the administration of routine state affairs is done through more than 50 state agencies. Each of these officials

serves

is elected to a four-year term. The governor has the right to veto any bill, but that decision may be overruled through repassage of the bill by a two-thirds majority of each house of the legislature. Any bill passed by the legislature and not acted upon by the governor within 10 days while the legislature is in session automatically becomes law. The governor, lieutenant governor, and attorney general together form the State Board of Examiners, which reviews all official state transactions.

Legislative power is vested in the Senate and the House of Representatives

, as well as in the voters, who

. The legislature consists of 29 senators who serve four-year terms and 75 representatives who serve two-year terms. In addition, the voters have the power to initiate legislation and to hold a referendum on all laws not passed by a two-thirds majority of both houses.

meets annually in 45-day sessions. Special sessions may be called by the governor.

Four councils provide investigation and research of specific legislative and state problems; advice on budgetary matters and appropriation requests; and legislative administration

More than two dozen legislative committees consider budgetary matters, appropriation requests, and other legislative matters.

The highest judicial authority is the state Supreme Court, composed of five justices elected to 10-year terms, one every two years. Judges of the seven district courts are elected

for six

to 6-year terms. The state also has circuit courts and justices of the peace. A juvenile court system has its own districts and judges.

All of Utah’s 29 counties are political subdivisions of the state and carry out administrative, judicial, law-enforcement, financial, health, educational, and welfare functions assigned by the state and federal governments. All but one of the counties are governed by the traditional three-member commission form of government. The other, Cache

County

county, has an elected executive with part-time council members who perform judicial and policy-making functions. Counties perform municipal-type services in unincorporated areas as citizens demand, and they perform other services demanded or requested by citizens and permitted or not prohibited by state statutes.

Forms of municipal government vary according to population. Salt Lake City,

the only city with a population

Provo, and other cities with populations of more than 90,000,

elects

elect a mayor and a city council. Cities between 15,000 and 90,000 elect a mayor and two commissioners

, while smaller

. Smaller cities elect a mayor and five council members. Incorporated towns are governed by a president and four trustees. Any city commission or town council has the power to appoint a city manager.

Although Utah is referred to frequently as a Republican state, actually no party can claim dominance. Elected officials from both parties

Utah has long been a heavily Republican state, owing in large part to the strong presence of conservative Mormons. Still, Republicans and Democrats work well together and show a reasonable degree of harmony. This has been true since the early 1890s, when the normally homogeneous Mormon populace was divided into political parties by church leaders to comply with federal requirements for statehood.

Utah’s broadly based tax structure appears to distribute the costs of government among all segments of the economy. The corporate income tax rate is lower than that of most Western states. A liberal free-port tax law granting tax exemptions on goods warehoused and processed in Utah is an incentive to commerce

Despite the overwhelming advantage Republicans have enjoyed in state and federal politics—Republican presidential candidates have won the state in all but one election since 1952, and Republicans have held the governorship for much of the period since statehood—Democrats have been competitive in Salt Lake City, where they have held the mayorship for most of the period since World War II. Still, Democratic candidates are at a demographic disadvantage in elections and tend to do well only if they reflect the prevailing conservative principles. At the federal level, Republican Orrin G. Hatch has been particularly notable; he was first elected to represent Utah in 1976 and has been one of the U.S. Senate’s most influential members during his long tenure.

Health and welfare

The state, county, and local governments have developed programs to improve the economic and social status of minority groups. Health, welfare, and housing services are administered by the Department of Human Services. County health services are supervised and coordinated by the state Department of Health, which also works with school boards for child health care. Outstanding hospital systems are administered by independent health organizations and by the Roman Catholic and Episcopal churches.

The state’s welfare program includes comprehensive old-age assistance, unemployment insurance, workers’ compensation, and other social benefits. The Mormon church also has an extensive welfare program.

Education

More than half of Utah’s tax-derived governmental expenditure is for education.

Utah has the highest proportion of its population in public schools, the highest proportion of high school graduates, and the highest median level of school years completed of any state in the nation

School is mandatory for all children between ages 6 and 18. The school districts levy taxes that pay for almost half of educational expenses, the remainder being paid by the state. General public school regulations are administered by the state Board of Education; elected local boards exercise more specific control. There

is

are a growing number of private elementary and secondary schools.

The largest of Utah’s state universities is the University of Utah, in Salt Lake City. It was founded in 1850 as the University of Deseret and has a reputation for outstanding graduate and professional schools of medicine, law, and pharmacology. Utah State University, in Logan, founded in 1888 as a land-grant school, has achieved national status in the fields of agriculture, forestry, education, engineering science, upper-atmosphere research, and the fine arts. Weber State

College

University (1889), in Ogden, and Southern Utah

State College

University (1897), in Cedar City, are schools with rapidly expanding programs and facilities. Utah’s university system has been a pioneer in online learning, bringing educational opportunities to residents of rural communities. State colleges include Dixie State College (1911), in St. George, which grants bachelor’s degrees, associate’s degrees, and certificates in a range of disciplines, and the College of Eastern Utah (

1938

1937), in Price,

are state junior colleges

which grants associate’s degrees. Community colleges offering technical and other courses are located in Salt Lake City and Provo.

Brigham Young University, in Provo, is operated by the Mormon church. It is the largest church-related university in the

nation, with 12 colleges and professional schools

country. Westminster College

of

, in Salt Lake City (1875)

is operated by three Protestant denominations.

Health and welfare

The state, county, and local governments have developed programs to improve the economic and social status of minority groups.

Health, welfare, and housing services are administered by the Department of Social Services. County health services are supervised and coordinated by the state Board of Health, which also works with school boards for child health care. Outstanding hospital systems are administered by independent health organizations and by the Roman Catholic and Episcopal churches.

The state’s welfare program includes comprehensive old-age assistance, unemployment insurance, worker’s compensation, and other social benefits. Efforts have been made to improve and upgrade outdated labour and hazardous-occupation laws. A division of low-income housing within the Department of Community Affairs facilitates better planning and coordination in that area. The Mormon church also has an extensive welfare program.

, is a nondenominational private institution.

Cultural life

Because the population of Utah is overwhelmingly Mormon, the church has a strong influence on the state’s cultural life and traditions. The church is divided into

“stakes,”

“stakes” consisting of

six

6 to 10 local congregations, or “wards,” of about 500 members each. Each stake has a “tabernacle,” or stake centre, with one or more chapels and recreational and cultural facilities. Each ward, or occasionally two or three wards together, owns a chapel with a centre for collective worship, classrooms, a basketball court, and a dance hall. Mormon culture emphasizes closely knit family life, widespread interest in family genealogy, prohibitions against consumption of alcoholic beverages and use of tobacco, a relatively small amount of nightlife, and participation in sports and personal-development programs.

Other denominations also are active in cultural areas. Particularly notable is the annual St. Marks Arts Festival, which includes music, dancing, poetry reading, drama, and other creative arts.

The Utah State Historical Society has a collection of manuscripts, publications, and photographs and publishes the Utah Historical Quarterly, monographs, and full-volume diaries. The National Society Daughters of Utah Pioneers, with about 1,000 branches throughout the nation, maintains a museum and monuments, preserves old landmarks, marks historical sites, keeps a library of historical matter, and collects data and relics to document the lives of the Utah pioneers. The Western Historical Quarterly, the official publication of the Western History Association, is published by Utah State University.

Park City and Pioneer Village in Salt Lake City are Old West towns containing original buildings and furnishings. Every county holds a fair in the autumn, highlighted by displays and competitions, concessions, and often a rodeo.

On July 24 almost all communities hold Pioneer Day, commemorating the entrance of the Mormon pioneers into the Salt Lake valley. It includes parades, fireworks, rodeos, orations, and reminders of Utah’s early settlers.

The Division of Fine ArtsThe arts

The Utah Arts Council, founded in 1899, is the oldest state arts agency in the nationcountry. Its purpose is to promote all branches of the fine arts. It sponsors the Utah Governor’s Conference on the Arts, and it an annual arts conference and allocates funds advanced to the state by federal agencies.

The most famous buildings in Utah are the many-spired Mormon Temple and the turtleback Mormon Tabernacle, both in Salt Lake City. The latter was built in the 1860s. It holds up to 8,000 people and has rare acoustical qualities that enrich the sounds of its world-famous organ, with some 1011,700 600 pipes. There are also notable Mormon temples in St. George, Manti, Provo, South Jordan, Ogden, and Logan.

Among the performing arts, music is emphasized. The Mormon Tabernacle Choir, which performed for the first time in 1847, now consists of about 325 members with trained but nonprofessional voices, ; it presents concerts and national weekly radio and television broadcasts. The Utah Symphony Orchestra, the Utah Opera Company, and Salt Lake the Oratorio Society of Utah are other major ensembles located in the capital. The major universities have symphonies and choral groups performing in winter, as well as summer festivals and concerts. In popular music, the Osmonds, a family of singing siblings from Provo, first gained fame in the 1960s and ’70s and continued to perform in various groupings (the Osmond Brothers, Donny and Marie) and as soloists into the 21st century.

Dance companies in Utah include Ballet West, which features classical ballet, and the Repertory Dance Theatre, which features modern dance; both are based in Salt Lake City. The University of Utah Children’s Dance Theatre and the Brigham Young University folk-dance troupes are well known.

Utah gained an early start in drama with the opening of the Salt Lake Theater in 1862. A replica has been constructed on the University of Utah campus, and performances are held there regularly. The Mormon church emphasizes folk drama in its youth organization; more than 2,000 wards produce at least one play a year, many of them written locally. These culminate biennially in a large drama festival in Salt Lake City. The annual Utah Shakespearean Festival is held in Cedar City.

Having already produced nationally known writers such as Pulitzer Prize winner Wallace Stegner, Bernard De Voto, and Fawn McKay Brodie, Utah emerged in the 1980s as a centre of Western American literature (a journal with that title is published by Utah State University). At that time, naturalist writer Terry Tempest Williams, literary critic and nature writer Thomas J. Lyon, and natural history writer Stephen Trimble began to publish extensively.

Cultural institutions

The Utah State Historical Society has a collection of manuscripts, publications, and photographs and publishes the Utah Historical Quarterly, monographs, and full-volume diaries. The International Society–Daughters of the Utah Pioneers, with branches throughout the United States and in Canada, maintains a museum and monuments, preserves old landmarks, marks historical sites, keeps a library of historical matter, and collects data and relics to document the lives of the Utah pioneers. The Western Historical Quarterly, the official publication of the Western History Association, is published by Utah State University.

Old Deseret Village, in This Is the Place Heritage Park in Salt Lake City, is a reconstructed Old West town containing original buildings and furnishings. Almost every town has professional basketball, hockey, and baseball teams, and auto racing a small museum or historical building that similarly dates to the mid-1800s. Every county holds a fair in the autumn, highlighted by displays and competitions, concessions, and often a rodeo.

Founded in Park City in 1981 by actor, director, and prominent Utah resident Robert Redford and others, the Sundance Institute supports the development of independent motion picture projects and filmmakers, as well as (since 1984) theatrical projects and playwrights. Held annually in January in and around Park City, the Sundance Film Festival is widely considered the most important American showcase for independently produced motion pictures. As a result, during the festival, celebrities from all over the world can be seen on the crowded sidewalks of Park City.

Sports and recreation

Salt Lake City is the home of two major professional sports franchises: Real Salt Lake of Major League Soccer (football) and the Utah Jazz of the National Basketball Association (NBA). After relocating in 1979 from New Orleans (hence its team name), the Jazz, under the direction of coach Jerry Sloan, has been among the most consistently winning teams in the NBA since the early 1990s. The capital also boasts a minor league baseball and a minor league hockey team.

Although Weber State (of the Big Sky Conference) and Utah State (of the Western Athletic Conference) have had consistently strong men’s basketball programs, the focus of interest for most college sports fans in Utah are teams that represent the University of Utah and Brigham Young University, rivals in the Mountain West Conference. For decades both schools have been frequent participants in the National Collegiate Athletic Association (NCAA) men’s basketball championship tournament, and both are also gridiron football powers. Utah’s football team was especially prominent in the early 21st century, but Brigham Young’s tradition of excellence dates from the tenure of coach LaVell Edwards (1972–2000) and includes a string of outstanding quarterbacks, among them Steve Young, Jim McMahon, Robbie Bosco, and Ty Detmer.

Salt Lake City was the site of the 2002 Winter Olympic Games. An appreciable portion of northwestern Utah was involved in the Olympics, as the sporting venues were located not only across the Salt Lake City metropolitan area but also as far afield as Provo, Park City, and Ogden. Auto racing at the Bonneville Speedway, on the Bonneville Salt Flats, has gained international importance. The Mormon church sponsors competitive team sports involving thousands of players, with basketball, softball, and golf tournaments that are among the largest in the nationcountry.

Utah’s nine national forests and other undeveloped areas offer great unspoiled tracts of land for hunting, fishing, camping, hiking, skiing, and snowmobiling. Other natural attractions include the national parks ( Arches, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Zion, and Canyonlands ), the national monuments (national parks; Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park; Cedar Breaks, Dinosaur, Natural Bridges, Timpanogos Cave, Rainbow Bridge, and Hovenweep ), the national recreation areas (national monuments; Flaming Gorge and Glen Canyon ), national recreation areas; and the Golden Spike National Historic Site, at Promontory, which commemorates the completion of the first transcontinental railroad, in 1869. There are 45 state parks, including Pioneer Trail State Park at Salt Lake City.

History

Prehistory and white

.

On July 24 communities across the state celebrate Pioneer Day, a state holiday commemorating the entrance of the Mormon pioneers into the Salt Lake valley. Festivities include parades, fireworks, rodeos, orations, musical recitals, and reminders of Utah’s early settlers.

Native American communities hold a number of annual events. Notable gatherings of the Ute on the Uintah and Ouray Reservation are bear dances in the spring, sun dances in July and August, and powwows throughout the year. The Northern Navajo Fair, held in Bluff in mid-September, is also popular.

Media and publishing

Several daily newspapers are published across the state. The Deseret News and Salt Lake Tribune, both published in Salt Lake City, are the major papers; other dailies are located in Logan, Ogden, Park City, Provo, and St. George. A number of locally produced magazines cover statewide and regional news and events. The University of Utah Press in Salt Lake City and Utah State University Press in Logan have been productive outlets for writers and scholars in the state.

History

Prehistory and European exploration

As early as 10,000 BCBCE, small groups of Paleoindian hunters and gatherers lived in caves by the great inland sea, prehistoric Lake Bonneville. This desert culture was replaced about AD 400 by the more advanced Pueblo, or By about 8000 BCE, Utah’s ancient people had developed a local version of the widespread Archaic culture. Known as the Desert culture, these people used more diverse foods and implements than their Paleoindian forebears. Their way of life persisted until between 2500 and 2000 BCE. Utah’s first true farmers are referred to as members of the Fremont culture (perhaps 2500 BCE–400/600 CE). The Fremont culture eventually gave way to the Ancestral Pueblo (Anasazi) , culture, which came into entered Utah from what is are now the U.S. Southwest and Mexico. These Indians Native Americans constructed superb communal cliff dwellings and raised corn (maize), squash, and beans. They Although they left Utah about 1250 , perhaps because of an extended drought, their Pueblo Indian descendants continue to live in the region.

When white European and American explorers and settlers came went to Utah in the 18th and 19th centuries, they encountered Shoshone Indians—the Southern speakers of the Southern Numic languages—the Southern Paiute, Gosiute, Shoshone, and Ute—some of whom raised corn and pumpkins by irrigation. The Ute in eastern Utah lived in a region of higher rainfallprecipitation; having acquired horses from the Plains Indianstribes, they centred their nomadic life centred around on the buffalo. (See also Great Basin Indian.)

Two Franciscan fathers, Francisco Atanasio Domínguez and Silvestre Vélez de Escalante, explored Utah in 1776, and afterward Utah was visited by occasional Spanish trading parties. Fur trappers and immigrants to California and Oregon were in the region in the 1820s and ’30s. The first four 4 of some 16 annual rendezvous between trappers and buyers were held in Utah from 1825 to 1828, indicating the early importance of the area to the fur trade. The “mountain men” who explored and established trading posts included James Jim Bridger, who first visited the Great Salt Lake in 1824, and Jedediah Smith, who first traversed the state from north to south and west to east in 1826–27. Explorers sent by the government included John C. Frémont, who led expeditions to northern Utah in 1843 and the western Great Salt Lake area in 1845.

Mormon settlement and territorial growth

The period of settlement and territorial status is notable for the ending of the quest (1845–47) for a Mormon homeland, the settlers’ wrestling with an arid environment, the contest for sovereignty between Utah and the United States, and the conflict with indigenous Indians between settlers and Native Americans over the use of the land.

When wagonloads of Mormon pioneers under the leadership of Brigham Young first entered the valley of the Great Salt Lake in 1847, they were determined to transform the arid valley land into a green and wholesome “kingdom of God.” From Salt Lake City (until 1868 called Great Salt Lake City), settlers were directed to colonize in all directions until they had developed a prosperous and stable economy and political structurein . They were told to settle a territory that was originally 210,000 square miles (540,000 square km) in area, stretching from the Rockies to the Sierra Nevada and from the Columbia River in Oregon to the Gila in Arizona. The towns were to be spaced a day’s ride apart, forming a spokelike pattern radiating from the capital; the Mormon church referred to this area as the intermountain empire, or Deseret, the latter the name of a proposed state that incorporated most of present-day Arizona and Nevada, portions of Idaho, Colorado, New Mexico, and Wyoming, and approximately one-third of California. Immigrant converts continued to stream into Utah from Europe (especially from Scandinavia and the United Kingdom) and the eastern United States; they were organized into colonizing parties based on the basis of allocations of skills and leadership abilities and sent out to build the territory. By 1860 more than 150 self-sustaining communities with a total of 40,000 residents had been established, irrigating crops with water from mountain streams carried through canals to the alluvial valley lands. Utah’s place in the national scene was symbolized by the driving of the golden spike at Promontory in 1869, uniting the eastward- and westward-reaching lines of the nation’s first transcontinental railroad.

Conflict with the Indians Native Americans, whom the Mormons referred to as Lamanites and favourably regarded as descendants of the Ten Lost Tribes of Israel, was held to a minimum until the colonizers became more and more ubiquitous, and local Indians Native Americans began to raid the settlements. The Ute were eventually placed on a reservation in the Uinta Basin , and the Southern Paiute and Shoshone on smaller reservations; later, and later the lands south of the San Juan River were incorporated into the Navajo Reservation.

The propensity of the Mormons to establish their own political and social system and the incompetency of federal territorial officials led to an era of conflict with the federal government. In 1857President , following the so-called Mountain Meadows massacre, when more than 100 non-Mormon settlers were murdered by a combined force of Mormons and Native Americans, Pres. James Buchanan, believing the Mormons to be in a state of open rebellion, ordered some 2,500 soldiers to Utah to replace Young, who had served as governor during the early years. This episode is referred to as the Utah War, although no armed clashes occurred. With the outbreak of the American Civil War in 1861, a new camp was established east of Salt Lake City under the command of Colonel Col. Patrick Connor. Connor openly supported his troops in prospecting for minerals and sought to “solve the Mormon problem” by initiating a miners’ rush to Utah. A substantial enclave of non-Mormon miners, freighters, bankers, and businessmen arrived, and there ensued three decades of conflict between Mormons and non-Mormons.

Before and after statehoodStatehood

The Mormon settlers applied for statehood in 1849 under the name Deseret, a word from the sacred Book of Mormon meaning “honeybee” and signifying industry. This bid was rejected, as were the efforts of five subsequent constitutional conventions between 1856 and 1887. Before the U.S. Congress and the national administration would assent to statehood for Utah, Mormon leaders were required to discontinue the church’s involvement in politics through its People’s Party, withdraw from an economic policy in which Mormons dealt primarily with each other, and discontinue the practice of polygamy.

Assimilation into the Union and later developments

After its acceptance into the Union in 1896, Utah moved rapidly into the mainstream of the nationcountry. The political structure changed from theocracy to a conventional democracy: , and non-Mormons were elected to important positions, including the office of governor. The Mormon church has been officially neutral in politics since the early 1900s, although its doctrines are generally conservative.

Utah, devoted to farming and the influence of economic blocs has become far more important. That Utah’s traditional spirit of community-mindedness survives was illustrated by the thousands who joined, on short notice, to counteract the devastation of heavy spring flooding in Salt Lake City in 1983.ranching, was generally little known to and little visited by outsiders until the 1940s, when the U.S. military established several bases and other facilities in the state; the most prominent, Tooele Army Depot, remains a centre for the storage of munitions. A boom in mining in the postwar era brought new immigrants to the state, which experienced fresh growth in the 1960s and 1970s parallel to that of other southwestern states.

In the early 1980s, torrential floods devastated much of the Salt Lake City area. Explosive population growth in the Wasatch Front continued in the last decades of the 20th century, a pattern that brought on urban sprawl, air pollution, gridlock, and other ills. The small towns of Moab, adjacent to Arches National Park on the Colorado River, and Cedar City and St. George in southwestern Utah, also saw dramatic growth during this period. The fact that the majority of the newcomers were non-Mormon caused concern among residents of longer standing regarding the preservation of the state’s cultural traditions.

A scandal involving the Salt Lake Organizing Committee (SLOC) tainted the run-up to the capital’s hosting of the 2002 Winter Olympic Games, but the committee and the city rebounded to stage a successful Games. A consortium of federal and local government agencies developed an urban plan for Salt Lake City that included the construction of new highways and a light-rail system. Despite these measures, however, planners predicted that resources would still be strained as Utah’s population continued to grow rapidly.

Geography

Good references on the land and people include Federal Writers’ Project, Utah: A Guide to the State (1941, reissued 1972), and a newer, revised and enlarged edition by Ward J. Roylance (1982); Wayne L. Wahlquist and Howard A. Christy (eds.), Atlas of Utah (1981); DeLorme Mapping Company, Utah Atlas & Gazetteer, 5th ed. (

The geologic history is told in William Lee Stokes, Geology of Utah (1986)

. John W. Van Cott, Utah Place Names (1990), combines geography and local history. Political and economic developments are described in Nels Anderson, Desert Saints: The Mormon Frontier in Utah (1942, reissued 1966); Leonard J. Arrington, Great Basin Kingdom: An Economic History of the Latter-day Saints, 1830–1900 (1958, reissued 1966); and Gustive O. Larson, The “Americanization” of Utah for Statehood (1971).

; and Halka Chronic, Roadside Geology of Utah (2001). Influential works on Utah’s natural and environmental history include Stephen Trimble, The Sagebrush Ocean: A Natural History of the Great Basin, 10th anniversary ed. (1999); Terry Tempest Williams, Refuge: An Unnatural History of Family and Place, 2nd ed. (2001); and Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire: A Season in the Wilderness (1968), available in many later printings. John W. Van Cott, Utah Place Names (1990), combines geography and local history.

History

Prehistoric Native American cultures are described in Jesse D. Jennings, Prehistory of Utah and the Eastern Great Basin (1978); and David B. Madsen and James F. O’Connell (eds.), Man and Environment in the Great Basin (1982). Forrest S. Cuch (ed.), A History of Utah’s American Indians (2003), edited by a Ute scholar, has chapters on each of Utah’s major Native American groups. Excellent state histories include Charles S. Peterson, Utah (1977, reissued 1984); Dean L. May, Utah: A People’s History (1987); Wayne K. Hinton, Utah: Unusual Beginning to Unique Present (

1988

2000); and Richard D. Poll (ed.), Utah’s History (1978, reprinted 1989 with a new preface), a collection of essays by leading historians. Wallace Stegner, Mormon Country (1942), is a learned though now dated study of Mormon culture and history, and Gathering of Zion (1964) is considered one of the best histories of the Mormons’ westward migration.

Political and economic developments are described in Nels Anderson, Desert Saints: The Mormon Frontier in Utah (1942, reissued 1966); Leonard J. Arrington, Great Basin Kingdom: An Economic History of the Latter-day Saints, 1830–1900 (1958, reissued 1966); Leonard J. Arrington and Davis Bitton, The Mormon Experience: A History of the Latter-day Saints, 2nd ed. (1992); and Gustive O. Larson, The “Americanization” of Utah for Statehood (1971). Current research on Utah’s history may be found in Utah Historical Quarterly.