A Vegetarian Chorizo Taco That Actually Tastes Like, Well, Chorizo

Just like “veggie burger,”, the words “vegetarian taco” bring up mixed feelings. At their worst, they can be sad: a mushy mix of beans and limp vegetables, overcompensating with an irresponsible amount of cheese. At their best, they can be a hand-held revelation, like the crispy fried Brussels sprouts taco at Empellon in NYC, the addictive tacos dorados with potato and broccoli at Nopalito in San Francisco, or the curry-spiced cauliflower taco at Alley Taco in Detroit. But, let’s be real, most veggie-centric tacos lack the qualities that make the meaty versions great: that juicy, toothsome texture and deep umami flavor.

We’re here to tell you: Don’t settle. Get yourself a taco that can do both.

When we first heard senior food editor Chris Morocco rave about the vegetarian chorizo taco at King’s Highway in Palm Springs, California, we brushed it off—he’d clearly had too much fun out there on his floaty swan. “The texture had a bit of chew and bounce to it the way real chorizo would, without trying too hard to pretend to be meat,” he says. “The flavor has a lot to do with the adobo sauce, which uses guajillo chiles for body and color and moritas for a bit of smoke and heat.”

Okay, we're listening. But where the taco really got it right, Morocco says, is its base of mushroom and brown rice. “It’s a great taco filling for anyone—I would happily eat it at home, and I am far from vegetarian.”

When recreating the filling in the Bon Appétit test kitchen, Morocco tweaked it only slightly. He streamlined the recipe to highlight the three elements that really define the taco: the adobo sauce, the faux-rizo, and the queso, which is thickened with masa.

At King’s Highway, Chef Carlos Salgado tops the taco with fried potatoes, but Morocco says a lighter topping works well, too. “I would sauté some more shitakes or maitakes to put on top of the ‘chorizo.’ The mushrooms give extra texture and meatiness. Pickled onions, cilantro, and avocado are all no-brainer toppings, too.”

It’s rare to find a vegetarian taco that meat lovers will want to eat too—but we think this taco's the one.