HarrieH's classic track bike projectA track bike has the beauty of simplicity. No distraction of cables, bottle holders, pumps and other accessories. Just a frame, fork, drivetrain, steering components and something to sit on will do the job on a track.
Some parts I already have for decades, others I have to collect. It's fun to look for the right components, to get them, build up the bike and, of course, ride it on the velodrome.
Oh, besides track, lots of (off-)road stuff as well.

I'm pretty far now and it looks like a track bike already.
Some small bits are still missing: the Sedis Pro chain I planned to use (I have a 3/32" Super Record front chainring and until I have a good 1/8" ring, it's the best to use a narrow 3/32" chain) is too short. I've ordered a SRAM PC 870.
The handlebar tape I have doesn't belong to this bike. Cork tape is not age correct and besides that I only have white Cateye cotton tape. Other bar tape options are black Bike Ribbon or Benotto Cello Tape. I have decided to use black cloth tape, that I've ordered from Rose, Bocholt. Maybe later I will switch to Benotto or Bike Ribbon, but I'm also thinking about the possibility to cover the cloth tape with "blond" shellac. Not that I've ever used this stuff or seen that someone did it, but it seems to be a technique that was often used.
I also ordered new spokes for the rear wheel, because these are badly corroded and look poor. It will give me the possibility to polish the rear rim nicely, but it also means that I have to tie and solder the spokes. I did this only once and that's a long time ago.

The assembly has started!First, I assembled the bottom bracket set. Since this is not the 70-P-120 set that I wanted, but a 70-SS-120, I had to try and see how the chain line came out and how the clearance between crank arms, chain ring and chain stays is. All parts were installed without any grease, but with sufficient torque. The clearance between chain stays and crank arms was tight, but about the same at both sides. The chain line was quite okay, but approx. 1 mm off. To be perfect, there should be a 1 mm spacer behind the RH bottom bracket cup, but in that case, the LH crank would come very close to the chain stay. I guess that a 1 mm mismatch is not that bad, so I decided to leave it as it is.All stuff had to come off again and re-installed with grease. To adjust the bottom bracket set, I need a proper moment arm, so, the RH crank arm had to be fixed. Unfortunately I don't have original Campagnolo crank bolts, but Shimano Dura Ace titanium hex socket head screws will do a perfect job. The chain ring bolts and the cranks bolts are not model and age correct, but for the time being I don't care. Of course, whenever I get the opportunity to replace them for a fair price, I will do so. Even Campagnolo crank caps are an option, despite the fact that these were the first parts to remove from a bike. The had and still have absolutely no function (except aesthetics), checking toque of the crank bolts became more difficult and time consuming and, not unimportant, unscrewing and re-installing the caps could ruin the treads.Once the BB-set and the cranks were in place, the forks and the Campagnolo Record Strada headset could be assembled. Final adjustment of the bearings is done when the bike has been assembled completely, with the wheels installed and tyres inflated to 8 bar.

After cleaning and buffing the lugs, dropouts, bottom bracket shell and fork crown with Belgom Alu, these parts are nice and shiny. Perhaps I could have mirror polished them with # 4000 sandpaper, buffing wheel and elbow grease, but I'm satisfied with the current state.
I filled the "cut-outs" of the lugs and the "ALAN" logo's in the fork crown with glos black enamel paint. You'll get a perfect result if you use Revell Email color and a small brush. The triangle cut-outs can be filled easily. Pantographed parts seem to be a bit harder, but that's even simpler. Just paint the part roughly, with enough paint in the letters/figures and don't worry if paint is spilled on the surfaces that have to remain unpainted. When the painting is done, whipe the excess paint off with a thin cloth. It's an option to let the paint dry for approx. 15 min, but then you have to whipe the excess paint off with some white-spirit.