Description

There are two cruxes: The first is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and is pretty balancy until a jug sidepull. The second is the slightly overhung section after clipping the penultimate bolt.

Location

Counting from the left side of BBDW this is the 4th route. It shares the starting bolt with the route to its left (Lacy Doggie Panties). After the first bolt, take the right and slightly higher of the two bolts at approximately the same level.

Good route. The finish is easier if you go slightly left between the last bolt and the chains. Not sure if that is the intended line or if the harder line to the right of the anchor is the correct one. Either way works but the right side version feels harder than 10A.

Awesome route. Has a little bit of everything from balancey moves at the bottom, to some mantles, to crimps and jugs, and even a sloper and a 2 finger hole. Way fun.

But I agree that the top feels harder than 10a. Maybe I did it the hard way, but between the last two bolts I did a pretty tricky, and very committing series of moves involving a layback with my weight on a single sketchy crimp.