Calvin Klein Collection / Fall 2014 RTW

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Cozy. If I had a dime for every time that word has been used to describe a collection this week—and I’m guilty as any—it would be down parkas for each and every one of those shivering street style stars. And if the trend continues in Europe, they’ll all get some Sorel boots too. Fortunately, though the collection Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa created for fall revolved almost entirely around mohair and yarn, cozy is not a word that comes front of mind. In Costa’s hand, and through his shape-focused lens, the idea of sweater dressing takes on an architectural quality. Costa’s use of seaming and structure manages to make knits look tailored. For instance, the neck of a short-sleeved mohair dress stood up stiffly to the chin, and the final looks—thick, patchwork sleeveless tops that felt both handcrafted and carefully cast to stand away from the body and were attached to gauze skirts—were the opposite of relaxed comfort. This was only underscored by the electric guitar sound track.

As a drum beat was added to the rhythym, color appeared in the clothes. A tweed jacket came in marled loden, gray, and orange stripes and those sweater dresses were now multicolored Fair Isle knits. Backstage, Costa also referenced the recent Mike Kelley exhibit at PS1 MoMA and a child’s sense of play. That’s where the coat fastenings came from, pins with giant colored beads like the wooden balls of that wire rollercoaster toy in every pediatrician’s office (it’s called an Anatex, in case that was keeping you up at night).

And because fall thus far seems to be a lot about a natural disaster–ready shoe, here models tread the runway in dark, haircalf utility boots. The silver wire laces, Costa said, identify them as a must-have for fall 2014.