Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Well, you can't go up through Ford, they didn't do it, apparently the mechanic did somehow. If the dealer won't do anything about it through escalation to General Managers or owners, I'd persecute them. It'll be hard to prove in court, but you can park the car in front of the dealership with some damaging signs. That usually gets some attention from them. If you can get a TV station to air your story, that's good. And they usually love stuff like that. Editorials naming the dealer in the paper are also effective. As to ultimately fixing it, a body shop can repair it, but you shouldn't have to pay for that. I have had dealer mechanics damage my cars before, but they have always been very good about making it good for me. They've never hurt my car that badly, but it also sounds like they are unscrupulous as well.

I have a completely different vehicle, but just the same, I had an issue like this a long time ago. My radiator was completely empty and the engine got very hot and would not accelerate just like you described. After filling it up with water and letting it cool it ran fine. The heads warped due to the heat though. So I replaced those myself for 700 bucks. On another note, I had an issue with the vehicle losing power and dying every once and a while. If this is an issue also, it is most likely the camshaft position censor. I hope this helps.

Same problem. When it's over 90 degrees, the Escape stutters and acts like it might stall. Hesitation also occurred at highway speeds.

The Ford dealer came up with three codes: P0351; P0303; P 0316.They replaced coil #1 and charged me $344. Same problem the next week. Dealer said they might have to replace another coil. I took it to a local mechanic with diagnostics. The owner told me the same codes, same solution.

A hot-shot mechanic working there said the code P0316 might indicate a bad wire to the computer. He replaced the wire. After a summer of record-breaking heat, I have had NO PROBLEMS! The cost for the second solution was $81.

I wonder how many other escapes have a bad or broken computer wire? Over the past 2 years I have replaced every external part on the engine. And before I continue , I was going to buy coils from AZ until I found out they were $85 each. I got 6 new ones off ebay for $95, not each but for a set of 6. regardless, still had problems. back in april my daughter come in complaining about the escape stalling, quitting, etc. the usual stuff that was almost a daily thing. I got to where I would ignore her but it was a dangerous situation. it would stop in traffic and it's a miracle she didn't get hit. anyway, this particular day I went out to look at it. I had done so much I really had nothing else I could think of. Out of frustration I just kind of started lightly pounding on things and tugging. I happen to grab the harness going into the computer and the engine stalled! Started right up, grabbed it again and it quit running. turns out a red wire which was hot (12v) was broke inside the insulation and I'm guessing it was broken for a long time. but with the way it was broke it was still getting contact. but certain things like hitting the brakes or sometimes accelerating would pull just enough for that break to separate. since the rubber insulation is stretchy it would hold it together. and I was getting all kinds of false codes because of the power interruption. luckily there was enough wire sticking out of the plug for me to splice it. the escape has been fine every since. I really believe it has been like that from the beginning and I have spent $100's trying to solve it. all new sensors, all of them! new coils, probably $500 on dealerships that said it was fixed only to have it happen again a day later. and tools, I have all kinds of fancy electronics now. I even had the leads and such to connect to my computer so I can read all the diagnostics and reprogram the computer. my daughter things I should become a ford escape specialist now.

I had the same problem with my 02 Escape, it failed to start after being driven when the engine was hot. A new IAC and fuel pump did not correct the problem. After reading this post I had the crankshaft positioning sensor changed and it runs and starts great!!! Thanks for your post!

when we first started having issues with the 01' escape I took it to a local mechanic. they did some test and said the intake gaskets were leaking. when it was cold it ran terrible but once it heated up the gaskets were sealing. I told them to fix it, repair cost was $130. Picked it up and a nice hot day and it ran great. next morning the weather was cool and it was running like crap again. I was going to take it back to them but decided I would see just what they had replaced. I took the intake manifold off and there were new gaskets. But, I looked in my repair manual and it said there were upper and lower gaskets. Turns out there is what looks like a spacer or adapter about 4 inches deep that the manifold sits on. there is another identical set of gaskets on the bottom of that adapter. You would think these mechanics would have taken another 5 minutes to replace the lower gaskets but no. Guess they anticipated it would act up again and I would bring it back. That is what you call job security for mechanics, some anyways.The gaskets set, upper and lowers in one kits cost me about $8. The lower gaskets were burnt to a crisp. Once I replaced those then it was fixed and ran great, for a few months. If you ever have problems with sputtering and stalling while your engine is cold those gaskets are something to look at. There are probably 8 bolts or so that hold the intake/plenum on. once they are out you can pretty much swing the plenum back so access the gaskets.

I own a 2003 Escape that I love. It has 122K mostly trouble free miles. Recently I replaced the head gasket and all the related gaskets, water pump & pulley, tension adjuster, serpentine belt, idler pulley, plugs and wires. etc. Followed all of the instructions as req'd to a "T". Recently i got a code P0171 (lean condition bank 1) along with the check engine light. There are no vacuum leaks anywhere (already checked). Vehicle has become sluggish off the line, fuel economy has dropped from about 27 mpg to 21 mpg. Traveling at speed up a moderate grade I have to shift from 5th to 4th and sometimes to 3rd to get up the hill. Performance is suffering. Odd thing is that at night it runs better (it's cooler), during the day when the temp gets over 75 degrees it turns into a slug. It never was a formula one vehicle but the performance was pretty good for a 2.0 liter 4cylinder FWD with a 5 speed. Before I start throwing a bunch of parts at this thing (Maf sensor (removed and cleaned), fuel pump, injectors (fuel injector cleaner in gas tank 2 bottles), Throttle body (cleaned) does anybody have an idea what might be causing this and the solution?Thanks Auralvoodoo

So my vapor canister got ripped off along with some hoses. I got an estimate at Mazda which says it will cost close to $900 to fix. I was able to find all the parts that mazda listed on the estimate and can buy them really cheap elsewhere which will save me $ and I can get the thing put on without Mazda's help which will also save but I can't find a diagram of the vapor canister and the assembly of the hoses/other parts anywhere. Nor can I find pictures of it anywhere online.

Anyone know where I can find this and/or willing to take a quick picture of their assembly?

Hi there,Am new to this forum so please forgive me if I'm doing this all wrong.

I have a Mazda Tribute 2002, 122k on the clock. For about the last 3 weeks or so I've noticed that when I first use the car during the day (morning or afternoon) whenever I turn the wheel I hear a rubbing/friction noise (not a whistle), as if something is grinding on something else. After a minute or two of driving the noise disappears completely and that's it gone for the day, even if I leave the car for a couple of hours and use it again it doesn't reappear. Following day same thing again.Yesterday I took it to Goodyear Service Centre (nearest place to me with a good reputation) and they had the car for an hour (at no charge which was good) and diagnosed that I need 3 x engine mounts fitted at a cost of $998, obviously I'm reluctant to shell out this sort of money if it's not the cause. Has anyone any other thoughts on this please. Any help would be greatly appreciated.RegardsStuart

Hi, thanks for the reply. The power steering pump also crossed my mind but I also thought that if it was the pump wouldn't I get the symptons all the time, not just the first time the car is used that day? Additionally surely the Goodyear dealer that looked at it for me would have picked up on the pump being defective? Am getting a second opinion this evening.Thanks again, appreciated.Stuart

I'm betting on a word CV joint, or wheel bearing, but since it does it on turns, the CV joint is most suspect. It will get worse, if it's a wheel bearing, it will start making the noise whether you turn or not. It it gets louder, but still on turns mostly, it's the CV joint.

Thanks for the reply, I'm not mechanic but have just had a read on what exactly a CV joint is! You obviously don't think its the engine mounts then? It's weird as it's only the first time the car is used each day, after 2 minutes its gone, I go to work, drive the car back 8 hours later and the noise isn't there! Thanks again.Stuart

I could be wrong, but the CV joint is the more likely culprit. Pretty easy to check. If you are up to crawling under the front of the car, look at the rubber boots on the drive axles. If one or more of them are torn, greasy, or leaking, you have a dry CV joint, and the boot and the joint will need replacement. If they are all dry and intact, I may be wrong, but you still could have one wearing out. The good news, it's not horribly expensive to replace one.

An interesting thing happened to me today. My 2002 Escape V6 XLS 130K miles, meticulous maintained and still running like new threw me for a loop. While at work had to drive to another building and when I pulled into a parking spot, I stepped on the brake and when moving the automatic transmission shifter toward park it got stuck on reverse and it will not move. Nor can I get it started.

I'm thinking that the brake pedal electrical sensor that sends the signal to the transmission shifter might have gone bad. Any help from my Edmunds Forum Ford owners friends will be helpfull. Thank you

Hi, Have a 2005 Escape XLT. The plastic at the rear fly windows, around the front mirrors and the plastic mirrors all seem to be curling/melting. Door handles are developing some type of cancer as well. Anyone have this issue? Anyone know where I can find aftermarket replacements? Very poor quality. Ford contact and they say SORRY. Thanks for any help

Good old Ford they just can't make things to last oh yeah why should they? We still buy their cars. You might try J.C. Whitney they have lots of after market things for cars and trucks. You could even call them first. Sorry for your bad luck.

I have had the same problem with my Mazda 2003 :blush: . I replaced it with a new alternator it was fine for few months after that the same problem has reappeared. They say the Ford Focus alternator works with the Mazda Tribute but does not last long. The rectifying circuit get very rotten /Burned after few months. Do not know whether we could connect a separate rectifier outside the alternator.

I've got a 2004 Escape XLS with about 140 km on it. Other than the odd problems starting it when we got it its been fine that sorted themselves out, its been a good ride. Within the last week while driving it has been making an intermittent grinding or whooping noise that sounds like it is coming from the engine compartment. All the fluids are good, belt is in good condition, the wheel bearings got checked out 3 months ago. Breaks are still good but nearing the end of their life. The noise seems to happen mostly when accelerating, but it has nothing to do with how warm the engine is or how cold it is. It also sounds like its coming from the engine compartment or just below it. Anyone have advice on where to begin looking?.

I have the same problem with filling with gas as mentioned in other posts. I was unable to find a solution. I can not fill my tank on my 05 Tribute unless I let gas trickle into the tank. I have had this problem before, and a mechanic cleaned out a line that allowed air to escape from the tank. I can't find this line, and don't want to pay him to do it again. Any advice will be appreciated.

I am have a problem with my 2005 Ford escape as far as the idle goes.. I can be driving 45 or more mph and the idle will go from 2000 to 1000 as if it was trying to cut off on me, as i am driving.. I also having problems with when i stop at lights and it completely stalling out, with me having to hurry and restart it. its been in the shop this would be the 4th time and ive only had the vehicle for 9 months. spending so far about 600.00 only because i have a limited warrente, i had a diagnostic that was following a faulty fuel module followed by a fuel pump.. still this hasn't fixed my stalling issue.. and I also noticed that the air bag sensor keeps coming on.. I have 4 kids and this is really scary to not know what is going on with my car. especially when its getting cold outside.

I have an 03 ES/V6 with 65K and a heck of a lot of noise. I thought it was transmission or 2WD box but turned out to be brand of tire and cupping. The inferior OEM Contis and alot of other tires are just noisy.

On the reccomendation of my local Mazda service manager I bought Uniroyal Cross Country tires and the ride and noise level are amrkedly improved. Wow.

Stalling in todays common vehicles are do to allot of sensors and other technical factors. In my exp. Stalling can be due to a faulty EGR valve, A much needed tune up and not changing the oil on a timely basis not a mileage basis, I change mine sometimes every 1,500 miles, because while the engine is indeed running, and the wheels are not, you have no idea how many non running miles are on the engine due to stop signs, red lights and traffic.

You need to replace all coils when you have the engine disassembled, for cost sake or it will be another cost to uncover the intake manifold again, I recommend that everyone with coil issues replace theirs every 100,000 miles all 6 or 4 or be stranded. On a six cylinder people it is easy, take the plenum cover off with a 5/16 socket and disconnect the neg side of battery, then unscrew the coil and replace, reconnect the neg wire and your done, average cost of on coil is 75.00 for one not installed.