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Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Roux 101

Ok
folks, I'm very excited about this post because I've taught myself so much
about making roux and am delighted to share all of my findings with you! Yes,
it's time for another one of those "nerd alert" moments, but bare
with me. Since I've received Paul Prodhomme's classic, Paul Prudhomme'sLouisiana Kitchen, I am eager to try more of his
recipes, and I thought I'd take some time to practice my roux making skills. As
I've said before, I've had some experience making lighter roux, but none with
the darker ones, which are most common in Cajun cooking (for those who don't
know, a roux is a thickening agent made up of equal parts fat and flour, and
when cooked together impart a unique nutty flavor to whatever you include it
in).

There
are four main types of roux: 1) White roux 2) Blonde roux 3) Medium-dark roux
4) Black roux (although there are varying degrees of colors in each of these
categories). The white and blonde roux are used in sauces, gravies, and
soups and are ideal for darker meats such as beef and game. These lighter
roux are often used in classic French cooking (white roux are used to make
bachamel sauce and the blonde roux are used to make veloute sauce and soups).
Many cooks use the darker roux in sauces and gravies for lighter meats
such as pork, rabbit, veal, and seafood dishes (however, some cooks do just the
opposite and use light roux with lighter meats and dark roux with darker meats.
In the end it comes down to personal preference). Dark or black roux are
traditionally used in making gumbo. The darker the roux, the less it will
thicken (the high heat breaks down the starch in the flour), but the flavor
becomes more intense.

I've
learned through my research over the past week that every cook uses different
methods and techniques to get to their desired result. Butter is often the fat
of choice in French cooking, while oil is commonly used in Cajun cooking. In
addition to oil, clarified butter and animal fats can also be used (such as
chicken, duck, and pork fat). Measurements are another common variation in
preparing roux. Some prefer to use equal parts by volume of fat and flour, while others
prefer to measure them by weight. It's no wonder roux have such a stigma surrounding them!

The
more I researched, the more I found every authority on Cajun roux varied in
opinion so much so, that I decided to put it all aside and find what methods
and techniques worked best for me. In my trials and errors making roux, I've come up
with a few methods that gave me excellent results. To start, I tried measuring
the fat and flour by volume and by weight, and found that measuring by weight was the
most consistent.

In
making lighter roux, I found that by adding the oil and flour to a cold pan and
then cooking it over medium heat allowed me more control. Once the mixture came
to a simmer I reduced the heat slightly. It took about 3 to 5 minutes to reach
the white roux and about 7 to 10 minutes to reach the blonde roux. I learned
that if I added the flour to smoking hot oil, I quickly lost control of the
lighter roux and it became too dark- even after removing it from the
heat.

To make
the darker roux, I found the best method was heating the oil until it was
smoking (about 5 minutes) over high heat and then whisking in the flour in
thirds. This method allows you to "skip" over the lighter roux, or at
least move through them very quickly, so you don't have to whisk the flour for
a half an hour or more. Once the flour was incorporated and simmering, I reduced
the heat to medium/medium-low heat (and occasionally removed the pan from heat
if I found it was browning too quickly), which allowed me to stay in complete
control of the roux. I reached the dark red-brown roux in about 15 to 20
minutes. I'm not sure how long it took me to reach the black roux, as I lost
track of time while whisking and staring into its deep dark abyss. So, awhile,
I guess. I also tried another method for making the darker roux, starting as I
did with the lighter roux, adding the oil and flour all at once to a cold pan
and cooking it very slowly over medium heat. This method also worked well, but
takes significantly longer- about 30 to 40 minutes or more.

I've
also read about another method, in which you brown the flour on a sheet pan in
the oven and then add the fat to it later. This method seems to be used most
often in large professional kitchens as a way to save time. As for me, I'm
going to stick to the pan methods, as I rather like making a roux the
old-fashioned way. You can see my various roux below:

White roux

Blonde roux

Dark red-brown roux

Black roux

The wonderful thing about a roux is that it can be made in advance, cooled and then stored in a well-sealed container until ready to use. You can simply pour off any excess oil and reheat the roux prior to using. Always remember: never add a hot roux to hot liquid as it can splatter and cause burns. So let it cool (or let it come to room temperature if making in advance) before incorporating it with a hot liquid. The same goes for combining a cold roux with cold liquid, as this will make it lumpy.

Here are some helpful pointers I've compiled about making roux from Paul's book and various other resources:

Be careful when making your roux, as the oil is extremely hot. Use a long-handled metal whisk. Never leave your roux unattended!

Use a cast iron skillet (large enough so the oil does not fill it by more than 1/4 its capacity) to make your roux, if possible, one with flared sides as this makes stirring easier and helps prevent burning.

Whisk quickly and constantly while making your roux to avoid possible scorching.

If you feel the roux is darkening too fast, reduce heat and/or remove it from the heat and continue to whisk constantly until you have control of it.

If for some reason lumps appear in your roux, simply strain it through a fine-mesh sieve before continuing.

If black specks appear in the roux as it cooks, it has burned. Transfer it to a heat-proof container to cool before discarding. Clean your pan and start again.