HELP: New Body Mounts Problem

I got LMC's body mount kit (rubber) and used their catalog to ensure I placed them in the right locations but there are gaps in all the middle mounts. The whole body is sitting on the front set and the rear set!

Front F/mid R/mid Rear
X --- X -------- X -- X

X --- X -------- X -- X

I pulled the supplied spacer out of the front set and that reduced the space on the F/mid set (you can still wiggle it) but the R/mid set would require at least 2 spacers and there would still be wiggle room.

My question is:
1) Do I spacer everything to where the gutted interior with the top on makes the body level?
2) Or do I throw away the spacers and just cinch the body down to the rubber mounts?

I have the doors off, so I can't use them for reference, but it almost seems like instead of the body sagging, it's humped.

Or the LMC rubbers are the wrong size, but other then the front set, the rest look the same. Is this normal even with you guys that use body lifts?

The hard top should do a good job of holding the body straight. Put in as many shims as are needed to get equal pressure on all of the body mounts. That should get it but you might have to adjust some after you put the doors on if the gaps won't line up.

i'd send them back and get the poly. i bought the rubber ones from lmc and they suck. after 1yr the rotted and the blazer hadn't even been used. I just put them on and parked it in the back yard. the ones i took off look better. Ill see if i still have the pics i can show you.

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The actual mount between the chassis and the body looks good there

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that's what i thought too /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif There are some cracks on it. I am fixing this, 71 blazer, as stock as possible. if you want a smooth ride, get some soft leaf springs.

I am running poly on my off-roader, 72 blazer, and i've had no problems with squeaks/vibration or noise from the poly mounts. I am sure the rubber mounts will eventually fall off if i keep them on there. I hope you have better luck.

You REALLY need to have the doors on the truck when you do the body mounts if you ever want them to fit back on there again. It is best to have the hardtop on the truck also, but if the door gaps are correct, the hardtop should fit back on right.

I really appreciate all the advice guys. Since I'm painting the interior and door jams while everything is disassembled, I'll let it "float" until the doors go back on.

My springs are stock and I've got some 5way adjustable shocks, so I'm hoping for some improvement in ride quality (not so bouncy) once it's all back together, but if it's not what would you recommend to soften things up and keep the stock ride height?

I've seen people go with the longer Ford springs in the back, I just hate the idea of using anything Ford.

Greg72 has some 86?-up blazer springs in the rear of his K5. They are softer than stock and come with the little friction pads in them. For the front you might have to get a custom set made to be softer than stock but you could try and call around to see if any already exist.

I used LMC rubber mounts when I put my truck back together and had the same problem with the spacing in the middle. I tried taking out the front spacers under the firewall, but it created allignment issues with the front clip. The rubber mounts also seemed to flex and sag after a couple of months and created door spacing problems too. I switched to poly mounts and they seem much better. I found no change in ride quality or vibration. The center mounts under the door still needed extra spacers, so after a lot of trial and error I found that I needed 3/16" spacers on all four mounts. I used some 2" wide 3/16" thick flat iron for spacers. Seems to work well after 1.5 years and a few thousand miles.

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