Is this Andalusian gem Spain's most underrated city?

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Sizzling temperatures are slipping down to the high 20Cs/low 80Fs; ancient underground watercourses ensure the city is shady and verdant, and visitor numbers are dwindling. Autumn is the perfect time to visit Cordoba, and from Oct 19-28 you can catch Festival Flora: sculptural displays of flowers in historic settings.

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In a quiet quarter above the Old Town, Hospes Palacio de Bailo (1) at 10-12, Calle Ramírez de las Casas Deza, offers luxurious repose in a converted city palace, parts of which date back to Roman times. Doubles from €221 (£199) without breakfast. Easier on the pocket, Hotel Casa de los Azulejos (2) (5, Calle Fernando Colón) splashes Cordovan colour around a garden courtyard. Doubles from €70 with breakfast.