Beck Hole
is not - as you might at first think - a cavern or pot-hole. The name is from
the Viking description of'a deep
valley through which runs a stream'.

The
surrounding area was called Allan Tofts and was the northern most part of the
great Forest of Pickering. In 1267 the King's
Foresters began clearing trees from the high ground and the land was improved
to provide a rough living for smallholders in low thatched dwellings. The
high moor land, rough grazing and harsh winters meant that life revolved
around sheep farming and the production of wool.

Eventually
the clearance of trees and scrubland continued down into the valley at what
we now know as Green End and Beck Hole, though in those days Beck Hole was
called 'Amerholm' and Green End 'Summerholm'.

The
earliest records show only one farmstead in Beck Hole in 1572 owned,
according to the Duchy of Lancaster 'Rent Roll', by William, John and Maryann
Ducke. The farm must have prospered as they built a big fulling mill for the
preparation of fleeces on the bend of the river. There are still traces of
the stonework to be seen on the riverbank, and some still refer to this part
of the river as 't'mill steps'.

What became
of the Duckes is not known,( tho' there are still families by that name in
the area )but it is said that in the
1600's Amerholm and it's lands were given to the Leighton family for services
rendered to King Charles 1st during the Civil War. The Leightons stayed in
Beck Hole until about 1751, and they too have left their mark on the local
name for one of the fields is still referred to as 'the leyton field'.

There must
by this time have been several dwellings in the valley. The Birch Hall Inn's
own title deeds mention the change of tenancy, in 1651, of a small dwelling
on the site where now stands the pub.

The
earliest known public house in Beck Hole was in 1678 when the inn in question
was 'The Bulls Head'. It stood at the far end of the hamlet, was re-named
'The Lord Nelson' in 1801, and was re-built in 1850.

Little changed as centuries passed. Beck Hole was linked to
the village of Goathland and the nearest
market at Egton by a stone causeway, or 'Trod', parts of which you canstill walk on today. it wasn't until 1868
that it was decidedto extend the
hard road to Beck Hole

The census of 1851 records just 6 dwellings in Beck Hole, but
the tide of change was approaching as in 1836 George Stephenson's Railway had
opened, right through the middle of the valley.

.

The carriages
were initially horse-drawn but the steep gradient of the incline between Beck
Hole and Goathland could only be overcome by pulling the carriages up on a
system of wire ropes. Steam was introduced in 1845, but trains still had to
negotiate the incline by means of the winches until a fatal accident in 1864
prompted the re-routing of the line to it's present course.

By 1857 the
industrial revolution had dawned. Coal and Ironstone mining was soon
underway, and two blast furnaces beside the river produced pig-iron to be
sent off to Whitby.

All this
activity brought with it a corresponding increase in workforce, and of course
their families.A row of 33 cottages
was built in the part of Beck Hole known as Buber Wood. It is around this
time that we first hear of the Birch Hall Inn, when it was developed from two
adjoining cottages to include a provisions store with accommodation above and
a resident cobbler on the top floor. In 1860 it was granted a license to sell
'Ale Porter, Cider and Perry'.

The boom was
short lived. By 1867 the mines had closed and the furnaces were dismantled.
By 1871 only the Birch Hall Inn, the cottage opposite and The White House
were occupied, and just 13 of the new cottages. Once the cottages were all
empty the whole row was demolished and the stone taken away to build Malton
Station. All that remains to be seen is a few stone gateposts along the side
of the path. Beck Hole slowly became a quiet backwater again, and has changed
little since.

In 1873 the
stone bridge was built to replace the existing wooden footbridge with its
ford alongside and demolition of the station buildings had provided stone for
several new cottages.

In 1940 the
Lord Nelson Inn was closed and became a private house, leaving the Birch Hall
inn as the only pub.

Electricity
came to Beck Hole in 1948 and eventually in 1952the residents had the luxury of mains water
instead of having to carry it from springs and streams.. and until 1989 there
was no television reception. The residents got together and raised money to
erect their own mast at the top of the hill which cabled the signal down into
the valley !

Though
rather 'Heath-Robinson'the
system lasted until 2002 by which time satellite transmission was
available..and it was eventually dismantled as most houses tuned in to Sky
TV.

Authors note
This is a very potted history, putting together stuff gleaned in conversation
with lots of people, as well as bits and pieces from several good books on
the area. I'm sure there's lots more to learn so anyone out there who can add
any details, give further information or can correct me if you have a
different version of events please email Glenys.