Now combine them, and you get (respectively) chef/proprietor Alfonso Contrisciani and executive chef Phil Gulis, both of Plate, an impressive new place in New Albany.

Far from fancy, Plate — which occupies a huge, patio-equipped space — embraces the customized barn look taken to the nth degree by Les Wexner. Plate, which can be loud, also sports the country club-casual atmosphere prevalent in this suburb 20 minutes from Columbus.

Under the voluminous restaurant’s high-up curved rafters, you’ll see antique lanterns, decorative plates, old timey photographs, plenty of flat screens and a black T-shirt-clad staff not yet always on the same page. Fortunately, the page that matters most here is Plate’s menu — which eats nearly as good as it reads.

The beer revolution hasn’t hit Plate, so grab a glass of it’s-there cheapish vino, then get to eatin’. Both the Insalate Italian (with local lettuces, roasted peppers, sharp provolone and a perky dressing) and the excellent Julia’s Love of Caesar salad (unnecessarily burdened with tomatoes, it’s still flavored with a proper anchovy-kissed vinaigrette, and is easily one of the best around) are distinguished and good deals ($5; $3 with a handmade pasta).

Even better were starters like an inspired Portobello Carpaccio & Mediterranean Hummus, plated with an unconventional but convincing-enough Indian curry take on eggplant caponata ($10). Though the silky, “steaky” and game-changing oil-poached sliced mushrooms heavily overshadowed the oil-integrated chickpea dip et al., it’s still an elegant vegan ensemble.

The King Farms Cider and Maple Cured Griddled Pork Chop ($18) was also busy with gravy, Indian spices, mustard sauce, a nifty mushroom-y farro sorta risotto and such, but it mostly cohered and was certainly delicious.