Beach beauty: the prep and the products

It's time for the bathing beauties to march in full force to the nearest waterside oasis and take a perch in the sun.

SAMANTHA CRITCHELL

It's time for the bathing beauties to march in full force to the nearest waterside oasis and take a perch in the sun.

Still, before summer's goddesses can soak up their golden rays, there has to be some preparation — and use of a few products — or they face the risk of splotchy skin, brittle hair and cakey makeup that could cause some cringe-created wrinkles. That could ruin even the best day at the beach.

Some advice from beauty experts:

The need for sunscreen should go without saying but, despite the direct link made between sun damage and skin cancer, some people still resist, says Dr. David Bank, of Mount Kisco, N.Y.

Maybe sunscreen irritates sensitive skin or aggravates acne in oily skin? Products that use the minerals zinc oxide or titanium dioxide — which are physical sunblocks instead of those that absorb UV light — are less likely to stir up those conditions, according to Bank, founder of The Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic and Laser Surgery.

Zinc and titanium are commonly referred to as "chemical-free" blocks and have some anti-inflammatory properties as well as some anti-bacterial ones, so they tend to work well for both skin-type extremes — the sensitive and the acne prone, he adds.

Also, he suggests, those with sensitive skin can look for sunscreens that contain soothing aloe, and those with acne-prone skin should consider oil-free preparations with a light texture. The rub-free mist products limits one contributor of acne: Dirty fingers don't transfer dirt to the pores.

Linda Wells, editor in chief of Allure magazine, encourages application of sunscreen before you even put a swimsuit on. If you're naked, she says, you won't miss a spot.

"You have to put on sunscreen. I know it sounds schoolmarmish, but it's just egregious when people don't wear it. Otherwise, you get wrinkles and dark spots and you look like an old, beat-up handbag," Wells says.

Consumer Reports' July issue finds sunscreen to be pretty resilient.

The magazine's tests found that in addition to protecting against both UVA and UVB rays, they were water-resistant — losing no more than 10 percent of UVB protection after being immersed in water for 40 minutes — and lotions and sprays were both effective, even though it's sometimes harder to hit the initial target with sprays.

Still, Bank says, no formula is 100 percent waterproof or sweat-proof, and sunscreen should be reapplied every two hours.

The three to earn Consumer Reports' Best Buy label were Walgreens Continuous Spray Sport SPF, Coppertone Water Babies SPF lotion and Target Sport Continuous Spray SPF 36. Aveeno Continuous Protection Spray SPF 45 had the highest rating (92 out of 100 points) but it was more expensive, $2.43 per ounce versus $1.33 for the Walgreens product.

On the beach or by the pool, wear as little makeup as possible because, in bright sunlight, it becomes "quite visible" and you risk looking clownish, says Allure's Wells. For the lip gloss (with SPF) and waterproof mascara you might wear, choose soft, natural colors, she suggests. "It's not the time for opaque Parisian French lipstick ... and no shimmer on the face. It looks strange in the light of day."

However, once you're done in the sun for the day and your skin has a deeper tone — whether it's natural or bottled — it's time to punch up the color, advises makeup artist Ashunta Sheriff.

Sheriff, an adviser to Mary Kay Cosmetics, recently returned from a Caribbean vacation and made the shift from a light coral blush to a full-blown spice color, she says. She'll pack a similar color for clients Alicia Keys and Mary J. Blige on their summer travels.

"You should wear the same color family that you wear in the winter or spring, but now you should be getting deeper," she advises. For a woman with light skin who gravitates toward pinks and nudes for her lips and cheeks, try tawny or apricots, and those with olive skin who normally wears peach might consider coral. Orange-coral colors, raspberry, cinnamon and spicy brown all complement darker skin once they've had a hint of sun.

She does shy away from concealer, powder and foundation because a tan tends to even out skin discoloration, Sheriff explains.

Wet your hair before you wet your body, advises stylist Robert Vetica, dousing with tap or bottled water. This fills the cuticle, making it harder for salt or chlorine to penetrate it. Using a leave-in conditioner before swimming or sun exposure coats the cuticle and protects it.

"There is nothing like a beautiful sun-kissed face with hair pulled up or behind in a low messy pony for an evening out," he says.

Even be conservative with the use of shampoo since chlorine and salt water both serve as cleansers. But you do need a good rinse with clean water before drying off for good, he says. If your hair does look fried, get a trim, since most of the damage occurs at the ends.