Nestled in Hong Kong Island's Sheung Wan district under hulking apartment towers on a busy commercial road, this 1847 temple is a tribute to the god of literature (Man) and the god of war (Mo), both of whom were once worshiped by students eager to succeed in the rigorous civil examinations of Imperial China. Good grades paved the way to a prestigious career in the government service. Today, the dimly lit temple with its carved wooden panels and giant incense coils hanging from the ceiling feels wonderfully otherworldly.