There is magic
in the Silent Places
where wind, and hooves, and water meet.
Linda BesseLake Kamestastin, Labrador 2008

Lake Kamestastin,
Labrador Expedition
Completed October 18, 2008
The Tshikapisk Foundation in Sheshatshit, Labrador invited us
to Lake Kamestastin where for over 7,500 years the Mushua-Innu
have met the George River caribou herd on its spring and autumn
migrations. We explored the region in preparation for further
work in the area next year, photographed bears, ptarmigan and
well over a thousand caribou at close range and helped winterize
the cabins and main lodge.

The Expedition consisted of 8
artists, Tony Jenkinson (our representative from the Tshikapisk
Foundation) and his 10 year-old granddaughter Jordana. Leader
of the group was artist Rob Mullen. The other artists include
Cole Johnson, Jay Johnson, Gary McGuffin (a professional photographer),
Steve Oliver, John Pitcher, Sue Westin, and me.

The Great Caribou Hunt (with camera and a lot of determination.)

I have many stories from this fantastic trip, but first I want
to share the day spent hunting caribou on the north east side
of the lake.

Leaving only shadows
in this unspoiled wilderness

Good fortune had me traveling
the day with artist Cole Johnson. After a hard morning of hiking,
we found ourselves on a small peak glassing for the elusive caribou
herds. I spotted a sizeable group off to the northeast but on
the other side of the river which drains out of Lake Kamestastin.
From all accounts, they would be crossing the river below them
and then come up through the spruce tree draw directly below
us.

This would be tricky. The timing
had to be perfect to place ourselves in a good position. We knew
how fast they could move, and a swing out from a direct line
could mean we would easily miss them. After enjoying watching
two bulls battle (tiny dots through our binoculars), they started
to move. Leaving our packs on the ridge, we raced down the slope
trying to keep an eye on their position. One more check on their
progress and then we entered the spruce forest. Cole and I were
separated, and I heard the crack of twigs in front of me for
a short time. I stopped. Silence. Was he already in position?
Were the caribou near? Did we miss them? Continuing on for another
100 yards, I stopped again. No sound. In the spruce forest, I
couldn't see any distance. Fallen logs and thick cover seemed
to deaden even the slightest breeze. Staying in the forest was
doing me no good. I had to break out of this cover and hope I
hadn't missed them (and hope I wouldn't be messing with Cole's
position.)

A little further and I broke
into a slight clearing dominated by small hill. Surely, the caribou
herd has passed by now. Inching up the hill in a crouched position,
I peaked over the edge. Caribou! Just below me. I dropped instantly,
lying on the slope, propped up by one elbow, holding my camera
at the ready. Just then, I heard hooves, lots of them, coming
right for me. About 15 caribou came running up the slope and
stopped less than 30 feet from me. They paused, watching me,
then ran off. No sooner had I recovered from this amazing encounter,
but I had hooves racing toward me again. Numerous times when
I thought the whole herd must have passed, another group approached.
Sometimes they would pause for more than 30 seconds. I started
getting used to this wonderful experience until I heard hooves
again, on the other side of me! A huge bull was among them and
coming almost right for me. Caribou may not be the largest ungulate,
but when you are lying on the ground in front of them, they seem
plenty big enough. This encounter lasted maybe 20 minutes and
then I dared to peak over the edge of the hill only to spot 2
more big bulls. I waited another 10 minutes, then stood to get
a better view. No caribou in sight, but I spotted Cole just below
me. He had been in the trees and at times even had to back into
them for cover to avoid getting run down by caribou! While our
reference photos for future paintings are awesome, for me it
is the "hunting" and amazing encounter with this herd
of well over a 100 caribou which is the special part of this
experience. The almost 11 hours in the bush this day were worth
every minute.