Gemelli with Butternut Squash and Bacon and Review of “Thirty Minute Pasta” by Giuliano Hazan

by formerchef on January 5, 2010

Giuliano Hazan is a member of Italian culinary royalty. His mother, Marcella Hazan, is credited with bringing authentic Italian cooking to the United States. In fact, even though I grew up eating my grandmother’s Sicilian-American food, Marcella’s cookbook, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, was one of the first Italian cookbooks I owned which talked about Italian food beyond tomato sauce. Giuliano Hazan has certainly taken to the “family business”; he is well-respected regardless of name, writing several cookbooks of his own, appearing on TV, winning awards, and running a cooking school for part of every year in Verona Italy.

His latest book, Giuliano Hazan’s Thirty Minute Pasta: 100 Quick and Easy Recipes is filled with simple, elegant, and appealing recipes meant to be accessible to busy cooks. Most can be assembled in the time it takes to boil water and cook the pasta.
I like his approach to recipes which is relaxed and no-nonsense. He says, “Recipes sometimes make cooking-which should be a spontaneous and fluid activity-into a disjointed one. One of the principal culprits is the need to stop and measure.” To avoid this, most of his recipes list onions by half or quarter, rather than number of tablespoons, or garlic by the clove instead of teaspoon. This is a method with which I heartily agree.
Many of the recipes have no more than 5 or 6 ingredients including the pasta. If you’ve ever eaten pasta in Italy, you’ll know this is how most pasta there is served; in a simple preparation showcasing the freshness of the ingredients.

The book discusses pasta in all its forms, sizes, and shapes, the difference between dried and fresh, and those made with and without egg. There’s a short discussion of the standard ingredients of the Italian pantry and a single, concise page with instructions on how to properly cook pasta. I think the best tip is the last one; “When the pasta is done, drain it, but never rinse it. Rinsing will make the pasta cold and washes away the coating of starch that allows sauces to cling to it.” He recommends the exact same method my grandmother used; toss it immediately with some of the sauce to prevent it from sticking together.

The book is lushly photographed. I admit to being someone who at times, chooses a recipe based on a picture, just like I may sometimes choose a wine based on a label. I am only human after all. Cookbooks written like a textbook are fine, and I have many like that, but when I’m looking for a meal inspiration, I like photos. I think this cookbook is perfect for someone just learning how to cook and looking for ideas and instruction. The recipes aren’t complicated and I’d recommend it to my friend who always says to me “I only know how to cook 8 things.”

When trying to decide which recipe to make first from the book, there was no shortage of choice, I picked the “Fusilli with Butternut Squash” because I had a squash my father had brought me from his garden. I made a few substitutions, but I’m hoping Giulianno with his relaxed attitude toward cooking won’t mind. I didn’t have fusilli, but I did have another “twisty” pasta called gemelli and I didn’t have the pancetta but I did have bacon so I used that instead. It wasn’t until after I finished cooking and photographing I remembered that a couple of months ago I did a butternut squash and pancetta soup. Ooops! I promise I will do another of these pastas soon. “Linguine with Crab and Arugula” anyone?

How you can win a copy of this book:
The publisher generously sent me two books; one for me and one for one of my lucky readers! All you need to do is leave a comment on this post with an email address (the address is visible only to me) no later than midnight Tuesday January 12th. Let me know your favorite quick pasta dish or one that you’d like to learn how to make. If you’d like a 2nd chance, tweet a link to this post (with @FormerChefBlog in it so I’ll know). I’ll draw a random number on Wednesday January 13th and the number corresponding to that comment (or pingback from the tweet) will win a copy of the cookbook. Shipping is limited to an address in the US or Canada.

Bring a large pot of water (about 6 qts) to boil for the pasta. I find peeling and cutting the butternut squash to be the most time-consuming part of the recipe so I recommend you do that first. Cut the ends off, cut the squash in half and then peel, either with a peeler or sharp paring knife. Be careful. Cut in half again, lengthwise, remove the seeds and dice.

Dice the onion and chop up the bacon.

Add the butter to a large saute pan and add the diced onion. Cook over medium heat until golden brown. Add the bacon and cook until it starts to crisp, about 2-3 minutes.

Add the squash and season with salt and pepper. Add the 1 cup of water, stir to combine and cover with a lid for 8-10 minutes until the squash is soft. Check after 5 minutes and make sure all the water has not cooked away. If it has, and the squash is still hard, add more water in 1/4 cup increments until the squash is soft enough to mash with the back of a spoon.

When the water for the pasta comes to a rolling boil, add 2 Tbsp salt and the pound of pasta. Cook until it is al dente, and before draining, reserve about 1/2 cup of pasta water. Drain.

Add 1/4 cup of the reserved pasta water to the sauce, smashing the butternut squash with the back of a large spoon. If it seems too thick, add the other 1/4 cup (I did this). Toss the sauce with the cooked pasta and the grated cheese and serve.

If you’d like to garnish the pasta with some fresh herbs, I think a little sage would be nice. I would have added some if the raccoons had not dug it up out of my garden.

Yields 4 main course portions or 6 appetizer portions.

Gemelli Pasta with Butternut Squash and Bacon

Finally, in the interest of full disclosure, I have this “small world” story to share:
I didn’t know how to cook when I went to college, but I knew I didn’t want to eat dorm food. My university had on-campus apartments so I applied to live in one. The apartment had 2 bedrooms, a living room and a tiny kitchen. I arrived at school armed with a couple of cookbooks and a small box filled with 3×5 index cards with my mom’s “easy” recipes on them. There were 4 of us in the apartment. I wish I could say that we cooked amazing food all the time, but while there was some good baking going on, and the dinners we made were certainly better than dorm food, it wasn’t gourmet.What’s my point here?
It turns out that of the four of us in that apartment, three of us went on to work in the food industry in some way, though none of us knew that would happen then. One of those roommates, a woman named Lael, later married Giuliano Hazan and now teaches, writes, and helps run the cooking school in Verona. I recently reconnected with her after almost 20 years and it’s been wonderful to see what’s she’s doing now and chat about Italy, food and the impact of social media on the culinary world. When Lael asked me if I did book reviews on my blog, I replied that I never had, but not for any specific reason. I offered to review the book but I want to make it clear to everyone I’ll never recommend anything I don’t believe in. That applies to any product linked on the blog, or on my Amazon store. If I don’t like it, you won’t see it here.
You can follow Lael and Giuliano Hazan on Twitter @educatedpalate (Lael) and @giulianohazan (Giuliano) and at the website http://www.giulianohazan.com/

Oh how I loved Italy and the simplicity of the meals. My favorite pasta dish is a fresh simple tomato sauce over a perfectly cooked pasta topped with a chiffonade of basil and a few gratings of fresh parmesan. Add a fresh salad of local greens with a light vinaigrette and a loaf of hot Italian bread and I am in heaven.

Oh how I loved Italy and the simplicity of the meals. My favorite pasta dish is a fresh simple tomato sauce over a perfectly cooked pasta topped with a chiffonade of basil and a few gratings of fresh parmesan. Add a fresh salad of local greens with a light vinaigrette and a loaf of hot Italian bread and I am in heaven.

Love the blog and great photos! Of course I’m a bit biased I know that Giuliano wouldn’t mind your substitutions. So… how did we survive college? I remember an involved discussion over chocolate chip cookies.

I remember lots of pots of spaghetti sauce and cheap pasta. Burriotos, ramen and kraft mac and cheese. I also remember making my mom’s hamburger/bean chili casserole dish she called “good crud” (bad name for something which tasted so good). I’m sure Ida was the instigator of the chocolate chip discussion.

That pasta looks extraordinary. I’ve never used squash w/ pasta before, but have seen it done and always been intrigued. My favorite to use is orecchiette; I generally toss it with sauteed kale and a garlic bechamel sauce–and whatever else I can grab from the fridge.

That pasta looks extraordinary. I’ve never used squash w/ pasta before, but have seen it done and always been intrigued. My favorite to use is orecchiette; I generally toss it with sauteed kale and a garlic bechamel sauce–and whatever else I can grab from the fridge.

I don’t know what’s it called in real life, but I named it after my friend who showed it to me. It’s penne pasta mixed with chicken, spicy sausage, shrimp, spinach, mozzerella, parmesan, and vodka sauce (combined in large pot). It’s relatively quick for me because the ingredients can be cooked in parallel and combined and heated at the end, especially if you buy the vodka sauce off the shelf.

Would love the chance to make ravioli with different fillings, especially with something not the norm.

I make homemade ravioli and freeze them in large batches. Then dinner is just a quick simmer in boiling water. My boys prefer them with just olive oil and salt and pepper. If company is here I’ll defrost some red sauce to go with them.

I make homemade ravioli and freeze them in large batches. Then dinner is just a quick simmer in boiling water. My boys prefer them with just olive oil and salt and pepper. If company is here I’ll defrost some red sauce to go with them.

A favorite pasta dish that I make is just one I threw together one night when I had a craving. I have been making it ever since. I start with rigatoni, bow ties, or just what I have on hand ,and add fresh chopped tomatoes, chopped basil and mint, Kalamata olives and small cubes of pepper Jack cheese. I then drizzle olive oil and squeeze some lemon juice over the top. It is so good and so easy.

A favorite pasta dish that I make is just one I threw together one night when I had a craving. I have been making it ever since. I start with rigatoni, bow ties, or just what I have on hand ,and add fresh chopped tomatoes, chopped basil and mint, Kalamata olives and small cubes of pepper Jack cheese. I then drizzle olive oil and squeeze some lemon juice over the top. It is so good and so easy.

I’m looking for ideas for pasta dishes WITHOUT tomatoes in them as my two little girls will no longer eat red sauce but still love pasta. No more quick dinners with spaghetti and sauce from a jar, unless I want to put up with a lot of whining!

I’m looking for ideas for pasta dishes WITHOUT tomatoes in them as my two little girls will no longer eat red sauce but still love pasta. No more quick dinners with spaghetti and sauce from a jar, unless I want to put up with a lot of whining!

I picked up cooking from waiting tables at a moderately-fancy Italian restaurant. Watching the chefs and cooks do their thing helped teach me that cooking wasn’t alchemy or magic, just the process of applying what you know about food.

One of the restaurant’s signature dishes was chicken and penne in a roasted red pepper sauce. Super tasty, and super easy to make.

Roast a couple of red bell peppers according to your favorite recipe (or don’t – it’s actually tasty with fresh bell peppers, too, I’d just use fewer of them). Puree them in a food processor, and add them as you’re making alfredo sauce (heavy cream, butter, parmesan cheese).

Just don’t make my first mistake, and try to blend the peppers into the cream in the food processor. I wound up with roasted red pepper whipped cream. Pretty, but not very good on pie. (I added it to the pan anyway, and it cooked down.)

I picked up cooking from waiting tables at a moderately-fancy Italian restaurant. Watching the chefs and cooks do their thing helped teach me that cooking wasn’t alchemy or magic, just the process of applying what you know about food.

One of the restaurant’s signature dishes was chicken and penne in a roasted red pepper sauce. Super tasty, and super easy to make.

Roast a couple of red bell peppers according to your favorite recipe (or don’t – it’s actually tasty with fresh bell peppers, too, I’d just use fewer of them). Puree them in a food processor, and add them as you’re making alfredo sauce (heavy cream, butter, parmesan cheese).

Just don’t make my first mistake, and try to blend the peppers into the cream in the food processor. I wound up with roasted red pepper whipped cream. Pretty, but not very good on pie. (I added it to the pan anyway, and it cooked down.)

Oh I love Butternut Squash. This dish looks absolutely delicious. The Gemelli looks fabulous too. Kudos to you! I feel exactly the same about reviews. I will only do them for that which I can wholeheartedly stand by. This is definitely a book I need to check out!

This is a great giveaway! I developed a quick pasta dish when I was about 13 – cheese tortellini with spinach, sundried tomatoes, toasted pine nuts, goat cheese and olive oil. It is still my favorite pasta dish!

My favorite pasta dish is Fusilli con spinacci. I usually go out to eat it though! and by usually, I guess I mean always! I have had great intentions of making my own but when you know a certain restaurant makes it perfect everytime, it’s hard to pass that up!
Thanks for the chance to win! The book looks amazing!

Oh, wonderful! My family has pasta at least three nights a week, and one of my favorite recipes is pretty simple: I cook up a big pot of whatever pasta we have available, caramelize immense amounts of onions in lots of butter 😉 and mix in chopped tomatoes and a big splash of balsamic vinegar. Soo delicious!

My fave is Rotini con Pollo: Spiral-shaped pasta, roasted chicken, pesto cream sauce, and Parmesan cheese topped with pine nuts. I hope I win (pick me! pick me!) as I’ve never actually prepared pasta. You see, the thing only two things I know how to make with certainty are toast and reservations at the restaurant which serves this! Much quicker for me than trying to figure out what a kitchen is all about!

P.S. I’ve not only been following this blog, but also your travels for years. LOVE your posts!

I am in Mexico with M & G & just received your blog info from M… would love more recipes with squash of any type.. and arugula… ok, bleu cheese also… have always wanted to own Marcella’s books… will one day soon…. the son’s would be great to win!

I am in Mexico with M & G & just received your blog info from M… would love more recipes with squash of any type.. and arugula… ok, bleu cheese also… have always wanted to own Marcella’s books… will one day soon…. the son’s would be great to win!

I loooove pasta! But I don’t eat wheat pasta, I eat whole grain rice, kamut, and quinoa pasta. You should give them a try, they are delicious! Kamut pasta and rice spaghetti has quite the hardy texture though.

I loooove pasta! But I don’t eat wheat pasta, I eat whole grain rice, kamut, and quinoa pasta. You should give them a try, they are delicious! Kamut pasta and rice spaghetti has quite the hardy texture though.

My favorite pasta is fettucini con funghi, aglio e burro. I make a sauce with different kinds of mushrooms (reconstituted dried and/or fresh, whatever I’ve got) that I’ve sauteed with butter and lots of garlic. Sprinkle with parsley and grated grana padano or parmiggiano reggiano. It’s my version of a recipe from The Horn of the Moon, by Ginny Callan, the cookbook that got me through college. (I learned Italian later on)

My favorite pasta is fettucini con funghi, aglio e burro. I make a sauce with different kinds of mushrooms (reconstituted dried and/or fresh, whatever I’ve got) that I’ve sauteed with butter and lots of garlic. Sprinkle with parsley and grated grana padano or parmiggiano reggiano. It’s my version of a recipe from The Horn of the Moon, by Ginny Callan, the cookbook that got me through college. (I learned Italian later on)

Wow, that pasta looks good. My favorite pasta is anything with a roasted red pepper and olive oil mix. Not a fan of red sauces. I found a new artisan kind of pasta at Fresh n Easy that has all these great curves – it’s delicious.