19.5.10

FW AW10: REDKEN @ Prada

REDKEN @ Prada"It's normal clothes," Miuccia said backstage before her show. "Classics. Revising the things I did in the nineties." Behind her, models, hair done up in sixties beehives, were changing. Among them were Doutzen Kroes, Catherine McNeil, Lara Stone, and Miranda Kerr, young women whose relatively curvaceous beauty has generally exempted them from being cast as exemplars of female gorgeousness on runways such as Prada's for the past few years.

Get the Look“It’s classic French hairdressing,” Redken creative consultant Guido Palau said of the chic, elongated chignons he created backstage at Prada, which he finished with knitted woolen bands — reminiscent of ski bands — to replace the more traditional hair braid. He added Redken thickening lotion, Hardwear Gel and Forceful 23 Hairspray to achieve the style’s impressive volume, adding pads within the hair to create a distinctive oval shape. “It’s a modern take on the chignon,” said Palau.

Makeup, by Pat McGrath, centered on a heavy brow, which she created using Covergirl’s Line Exact Liner Pen in black and brown. “It’s all about a superstrong brow,” she said. “It’s Fifties inspired, but a modern beauty with a slightly disturbing side.” YSL Touche Eclat, MAC foundation, MAC powder and some lip balm was used, too.