First Bite: Gozo Redefines ‘Joy’ on South Broadway

Pro: Gozo is a much-welcomed addition to the South Broadway area. With excellent food and a relaxed, unpretentious attitude, this hip new eatery seamlessly integrates itself into SoBo. The prices are also quite reasonable and it has a great lunch menu that is worth checking out.

Con: There is a slight trend of over-saltiness in several of its dishes, but typically the quality of the food overshadows the issue.

“Embedded in a row of vintage stores and dive bars is 30 South Broadway, a matte, black building that houses one of Baker’s newest additions, Gozo. The self-proclaimed “neighborhood joint” is a new restaurant focused on Spanish and Italian rustic dining. With roots in Napa, the project with a high pedigree seems like an unlikely pairing to the grittier South Broadway area. But with a low-key vibe and a strong dedication to the locals, co-owners Dominic Valenti and Frank Jolley have been able to seamlessly integrate themselves. And business seems to be booming:

“Our phone has been ringing off the hook. We literally bought a new phone,” Jolley said with a slight grin. “The neighborhood has been very supportive.”

It’s a connotation of joy…That is Gozo

Gozo’s success is probably due in part to its wonderful food and even better philosophy… Gozo, the restaurant’s name despite its lack of signage, has a dual meaning. Jolley explained that the name first represents the Maltese island which hosts of a multitude of cultures from all over the the Mediterranean, similar to the restaurant. But the name also represents a concept. The word, Jolley explained, ” Is a connotation of joy. It’s an untranslatable word but the closest thing we can say is a joyful moment. It happens a lot in Nappa, when the sun is shining, you have a glass of wine and people are enjoying themselves… That is Gozo. ”

Gozo’s short ribs

The food represents this concept because everything is bright, simple and will definitely put a smile on your face. I particularly enjoyed the meatballs and polenta. The rich, creamy grits were perfectly prepared and weighed well with the superbly seasoned meatballs. It was a simple plate, but well executed. The braised short ribs was also an incredibly decadent and delicious dish, but it was a tad heavy on the salt, a trait that can sometimes pop up on other dishes. The lighter options like the beet salad laid in goat cheese puree was earthy and well-balanced. Everything was pretty filling, even if you choose a salad like the shaved brussel sprouts salad, made with egg and macaroon almond. The wine and cocktail list, just like the menu, is inviting with lower prices than one might expect. On average a plate will cost you about $15 or less, making it so that you can enjoy your meal without having to check your bank account later.

Overrall Gozo is a great addition to the neighborhood. With quality food and quality people, I can’t imagine this place going anywhere anytime soon. So the next time you’re in SoBo make sure to grab a seat at this hip new eatery. Maybe if the sun is shining just right, and you’re in good company, a moment of gozo just might strike you.

About The Author

Brittany is an avid NPR listener, "death-before-decaf-er" and devout whiskey drinker. When she is not in her native home of Denver you can find her traveling all over the globe in search of the perfect bite. Her favorite travel designation right now? Aqaba, Jordan. But she hopes to go to Sudan and Singapore next. Follow her on all of her adventures by going to her Instagram and Twitter