What to do in Lisbon

Classic churches, a buzzy market, the city’s best custard tart and a night of fado

Mercado da Ribeira

Insider says:
Get gastric juices flowing at the 13th-century Mercado da Ribeira, opposite Cais do Sodré station. More than 30 of the coolest Portuguese chefs serve up their tastiest dishes from stalls until 2am on weekends. The market is a great spot for people-watching — see selective Lisboans pick around stalls glistening with silvery shoals of sardines alongside clusters of cuttlefish. Don’t leave without trying the tuna steak sandwich from O Prego Betinho. There’s no need to book, just grab a spot on one of the communal benches.

Editor's tip

"In the morning grab one of the best coffees in town - a bica (the Portuguese take on espresso) from on-site cafe, Cacau da Ribeira - before wandering around the stalls. "

Heavenly views

Cristo Rei

Insider says:
By the Golden Gate lookalike Ponte 25 de Abril bridge looms a massive monument of Jesus Christ, arms outstretched towards the river. Take the lift up 341ft and mill about JC’s feet, clocking the views of the bridge and a skyline punctuated by hilltops and spires. If you’d rather keep your feet on ground level, the bustling Alcântara docks are the place for compelling yet less head-spinning views.

Editor's tip

"When you’ve taken in the views, grab a spicy, samosa-like chamuça at the small food stall Quiosque da Rocha Os Primos (Gare Marítima de Alcântara). You’ll be joining a discerning clientele of dockworkers on their break: they may look grizzled, but those guys know quality when they taste it. "

See it all

The city walk

Insider says:
Avoid being stuffed like a sardine in a tin on the tourist-packed No 28 tram. Follow its tracks instead and see the sights at your leisure. Tick off the 12th-century Sé de Lisboa cathedral and, at the top of the hill, the views over the roofs to the river from the Mirador de Santa Lucia. Collectors with an itch to scratch should dedicate an hour of their time — and some euros — to the Feira da Ladra flea market (Tuesdays and Saturdays). More addictive views of the city are to be had from the crenellated Moorish castle of Castelo de São Jorge, which occupies a commanding hilltop position

Editor’s tip

"If you’re gagging for a tram ride catch the quieter, but slower and just-as-scenic No 12, which trundles through the Baixa and São Tome districts as well as Alfama."

Top tarts

Pasteis de Belem

Insider says:
Thought your grandma did the best custard? You’ve not tried the pasteis de nata tarts from the Pasteis de Belem bakery, in Belem. The 19th-century recipe is a secret, but the reputation’s not, so the queues are serious. The tactic: slip inside the cafe, where a seat is easy to come by. One tart is never enough, we implore you to treat yourself to two.
Now, make the schlep there worthwhile by having a stroll through the Belem gardens to the waterfront and the 16th-century Belem tower, built to guard the river-mouth. Work off those tarts on the steep climb up the tower then catch a breather as you look out across the sparkling Tagus river. It’s free to visit on the first Sunday of the month, or £4.60 the rest of the time.

Fado bars

Insider says:
Lisbon is the birthplace of fado, and you’re unlikely to resist the pull of the city’s powerful folk music. By nightfall, haunting vocals and the sound of melancholic mandolins beckon from the restaurants and bars around Rua Diario de Noticias, in Bairro Alto. In medieval Alfama, the street you want is Rua do Barão. In Graça, our favourite fado bar is Tasca do Jaime: in contrast to some of the more touristy joints, it’s a tiny taverna that packs in die-hard local fans. Come at twilight for a wander through the winding streets when cathedral bells sound the hour, dogs bark and passing trams clang: once you’ve soaked up the atmosphere, duck into the bar and be prepared to stay late.

Calçadas

Insider says:
Spotted the mosaic-like pavements? They’re called calçadas and were a happy result of the devastating 1755 earthquake – it meant the Baixa area had to be entirely rebuilt. Set yourself a calçadas challenge to walk over the best ones. Tiptoe across the dizzying wave patterns in Rossio Square, stride over complex geometric designs in Praça dos Restauradores, spot the galleon lost in the patterns of the Praça Marquês do Pombal, then end at the map of Portuguese discovery routes by the Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument. Ready, steady, go!

Eat Portugal tour

Insider says:
Get a real feel for the city on a food jaunt. Passionate local gastronome Celia Pedroso does the best. The Lisbon Eats tour is the one to book. In three and a half hours she’ll introduce you to mouthwatering salt cod fritters, peppery olive oil and tinned sardines like no other. If you aren’t squeamish about the appearance of your food, don’t leave without asking Celia to order a dish of percebes (gooseneck barnacles) — they look like claws but taste similar to squid.

Editor's tip

"Short on time? Celia doesn’t publicise it, but you can request, via email, a zippier two-and-a-half hour Tour Express of all the foodie highlights.
"

The best of the museums

Gulbenkian, Museu de Arte Antiga and Museu Coleção Berardo

Insider says:
You could and should lose a whole day in Lisbon’s great museums, starting with the Gulbenkian (gulbenkian.pt; €5) and its collection of Oriental and Western art. Press your nose against the glass to get a good look at the gilded silver mummy mask in the Egyptian section. At the Museu de Arte Antiga (museudearteantiga.pt; €6), travel through eight centuries of Islamic jewels, Chinese porcelain and grand Portuguese portraits, all displayed in a stunning 17th-century mansion. In Belem, the Museu Coleção Berardo is the place for 20th-century art. Its permanent collections include a Dali lobster phone and works by Andy Warhol, Mark Rothko, Marcel Duchamp and Anish Kapoor (free; museuberardo.pt).

Editor's tip

"Don't skip the Berardo's sculpture garden like most visitors. There's a giant Henry Moore reclining figure and the views of the Mosteiro Jeronimo are phenomenal."

Inner sanctum

Mosterio Dos Jerónimos

Insider says:
The Mosterio Dos Jerónimos beams like a white smile between Lisbon’s blue sky and flowing Tagus river. The impressive pomp-and-bling monastery was built to mark the Age of Discoveries heralded by Vasco da Gama – the explorer is entombed here. The Gothic chapel, ornate church and decadent cloisters are beautiful but busy. Have a look round then slip away from the crowds, kick off your shoes and feel the grass of the monastery’s gardens.

Lisbon Oceanarium

Insider says:
In town with the kids? They’ll love this one. In the Parque das Nações where green expanses and Modernist architecture mingle beside the broad Tagus river you’ll find the city’s rather good Oceanarium. All the family favourites are here — cute otters, cheeky penguins, menacing sharks. The deep-sea tank teems with creatures, including a gloomy-looking sunfish, which makes gaggles of children giggle. See if you can spot the dinky Royal Dottyback fish in bright purple and yellow livery.

LX Factory

Insider says:
Tango with the taste-makers around the stores, galleries and cafes of the arty LX Factory, near the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge. A decade ago, the abandoned printworks went from drab to fab after a spruce from head-to-toe. Today, huge colourful murals adorn the exterior walls and inside it’s a pot-pourri of cool candles, cushions, eclectic artwork and clothes. Take your time weaving in and out of different spaces and pause in between browsing for a shot of punchy coffee from Wish cafe. Pick up one of their whimsical tote bags for a token-gesture present.

Editor's tip

"Leave time to pop round the corner to Village Underground (vulisboa.com) — its graffiti-coated containers are work spaces, but the cool and quirky cafe in the green double-decker bus is open to all. The cocktails are delicious and cheap at €5 a pop.
"

Stories from the crypt

Igreja de São Domingos

Insider says:
Lisbon isn’t short on churches, so visit one with a good back story. Built in 1241, Igreja de São Domingos was where the Portuguese royals tied the knot. Since then two earthquakes and a fire have left their mark. The nave is bolstered by scorched marble pillars and a faint whiff of charring lingers. The burnt Baroque interior is sombre though the orange walls and golden altarpiece haven’t lost their vibrancy. The church’s cool but well-worn confines, the city’s cacophony is far away, as a priest gives confession to the pious. Then, duly sanctified, take some refreshment: hop across the sunny square to A Ginjinha for a fortifying snifter of Lisbon’s cherry brandy, ginjinha.

Museu do Design e da Moda

Insider says:
Cast your eyes over a ’50s Balenciaga evening gown, Vivienne Westwood shoes and a ’60s Vespa at the Design & Fashion Museum. Its permanent collection of fashion and furniture from the ’50s to ’90s is housed within the bare concrete walls of an old bank, a space worth a look on its own. Even the loo has an exhibit of colourful loo rolls.

21pr Concept, Embaixada and Entre Tanto

Insider says:
Concept stores are all the rage in Lisbon — and in the chi-chi Príncipe Real neighbourhood you’ll find some of the best, hidden within neo-Moorish mansions. Sift through rails of couture clothing at 21pr Concept (Praça do Príncipe Real 21), before moving on to the independent shops at mini-mall Embaixada (Praça do Príncipe Real 26), filled with Portuguese-made goodies such as jewellery, artworks and clothes. Then trot further along the road to various rooms selling clothes, trainers and vintage furniture at the indoor market, Entre Tanto.

Drink til dawn

The nightlife

Insider says:
The heart of Lisbon’s nightlife is in Bairro Alto. Follow the hip kids to the district’s southern edge and Park bar (Calçada do Combro 58), a hidden plant-filled terrace atop a car park, with two bars, a DJ and 180-degree views of the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge, Tagus river and Santa Catarina church. It’s hard to find, but worth it: take the lift left of disabled parking bay 106 to the top floor, and follow the final bend up to the left. It’s good in all weathers, as the outdoor heaters keep you toasty.
After you’ve sunk a couple of drinks, move on. A five minute walk away is bar-packed Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo. Start at trendy Bicaense Café (No 42) and finish with a classy cocktail or two in Esquina da Bica (No 26). Try to stay sober enough that you don’t trip over the tram lines running up the middle of the street.