Yes that does make sense. I am remembering something about the early 1.5 blocks with 11mm headbolts suffering from cracks around the bolt holes.

More progress:

Chased/cleaned the bolt holes

Cleaned up the block deck. I really like that super scraper.

Cleaned up the piston tops and measured piston protrusion with a small stout straightedge and feeler gauges:

#1 .026
#2 .016
#3 .034
#4 .032
#5 .034
#6 .032

What's up with outlier #2? No signs of valve collision on piston top.

Looks like I go with 2-notch head gasket, here are the specs:
mm (in)
0.81-0.90 (0.032-0.035) 2-notch
0.91-1.02 (0.036-0.040) 3-notch

It had a 3-notch replacement gasket. I think repair shops commonly replaced head gaskets w/ 3-notch across the board. Easier to stock one gasket version, and no having to measure/ no chance for valve interference. The tradeoff is lower performance.

Here are photos of the piston tops. Can anyone decipher the markings?P1020688.JPG

Took advantage of a day off (mostly) and good weather and marked a significant milestone today. I had previously cleaned up the block deck and cylinder head mating surfaces, and bolt holes, and installed the 2-notch head gasket, cylinder head, oiled and torqued the new head bolts, + the additional 180 deg (they want a continuous motion on that, which was hard to manage until I put the pipe on the 24" breaker bar. Then it was an easy walk around the front of the car to the other side .) The head bolt in the Time-sert repaired bolt hole seemed to act similar to the others-- time will tell how well it holds up. Still have two more 90deg bolt tightening procedures to go: one after first warm-up, the other after 600-1200 miles.

Then belts, camshaft and IP timing.

Today I was able to bolt up the exhaust manifold and install the injector lines.

Still trying to figure out the best way to clean out the clingy oil gunk mess inside the whole cooling system, so the radiator is still out of the car and the hoses are not connected.

But I looked at it then and thought: "It could start as it is, right now." Cranked and cranked until fuel came out of the loosened #1 injector line. Energized the GPs and it started and idled by itself until I shut it off because no coolant. I had to try several times and it did start easily each time.

Drove around the neighborhood a few times to get it up to operating temp., then gave the second-to-last 90deg. headbolt tightening.

Greenbook says "Tighten bolt 90* Note this should be in one movement without stopping." Even with lots of extension pipe on the breaker bar it felt like a slow motion jackhammer. No way to get a smooth twist on those!

The Time-sert repaired hole felt about the same as the others so I am taking that to mean its threads are successfully holding so far. The one directly ahead of it however tightened like butter, instead of chattering and crackling like the others.

Finished up too late to get the plates re-registered, so will have to wait until Monday for more reportage.

Took advantage of a day off (mostly) and good weather and marked a significant milestone today. I had previously cleaned up the block deck and cylinder head mating surfaces, and bolt holes, and installed the 2-notch head gasket, cylinder head, oiled and torqued the new head bolts, + the additional 180 deg (they want a continuous motion on that, which was hard to manage until I put the pipe on the 24" breaker bar. Then it was an easy walk around the front of the car to the other side .) The head bolt in the Time-sert repaired bolt hole seemed to act similar to the others-- time will tell how well it holds up. Still have two more 90deg bolt tightening procedures to go: one after first warm-up, the other after 600-1200 miles.

Then belts, camshaft and IP timing.

Today I was able to bolt up the exhaust manifold and install the injector lines.

Still trying to figure out the best way to clean out the clingy oil gunk mess inside the whole cooling system, so the radiator is still out of the car and the hoses are not connected.

But I looked at it then and thought: "It could start as it is, right now." Cranked and cranked until fuel came out of the loosened #1 injector line. Energized the GPs and it started and idled by itself until I shut it off because no coolant. I had to try several times and it did start easily each time.

Hey Ngoma,

Just saw this thread, did you manage to get things sorted?...I had a similar bit of confusion re the head bolt torque specs when fitting a 3 notch Elring MLS (btw it was a 2 notch on it, but went with the 3 notch as it proved easier/cheaper to source, was also told it would raise compression slightly, which I didnt see as a bad trade off)

I eventually emailed Elring and this was the reply...

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Also had to put a big breaker bar/scaffold tube onto it to get the 180 degree final stage on them.

Engine is now running quite nicely, about half way to the 600-1200 mi. final 90deg bolt tightening. The Time-sert repaired bolt hole is apparently holding, no leaks internal or external from the HG, coolant is clean and clear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by neilsontom3000

(btw it was a 2 notch on it, but went with the 3 notch as it proved easier/cheaper to source, was also told it would raise compression slightly...

Think it's the reverse-- thicker HG reduces compression. You may find harder starting, less power, economy, etc. I agree the MLS HG has a different torque specs and procedure than the fiber HG. Also more stringent mating surface finish specs. Along with theoretically better longevity.

Engine is now running quite nicely, about half way to the 600-1200 mi. final 90deg bolt tightening. The Time-sert repaired bolt hole is apparently holding, no leaks internal or external from the HG, coolant is clean and clear.

Think it's the reverse-- thicker HG reduces compression. You may find harder starting, less power, economy, etc. I agree the MLS HG has a different torque specs and procedure than the fiber HG. Also more stringent mating surface finish specs. Along with theoretically better longevity.

Nice one, glad you got it sorted

Still not turned the key yet on mine after the head re-build, my new idler pulley bolt snapped whilst being torqued up , tried an easy-out, which felt like it was also about to let go , so eventually decided to drill it out and tapped it to 8mm and all seems to be strong.

Been out the country since for past couple of months, but now have a bit of a free time ahead, so hopefully i'll finally get the thing going shortly.

re the thicker HG, I hope it doesn't affect the car too adversely in that case, as i don't think I could face doing the bloody job again i'll soon know!