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up to now I primed, bottled and left the beer just sit at fermentation temperature (64°F/18°C) for about 2 weeks (no cold crash).
Having read about cold conditioning (i.e. putting the bottles into a fridge at around 32°F/0°C for 2-3 weeks), I wonder whether I should do that, too.
As this would take buying a second fridge for the beer only, I wonder whether this procedure ( not to be confounded with cold crash ) really makes that much of a difference in flavor as to justify the...

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Lagering is used with lager yeast and is a type of fermentation. Cold crashing is preformed after fermentation to drop the yeast and solids out of suspension before packaging. Cold conditioning is done after packaging as a way to age the beer.

Cellaring beer is typically done at 50-55F range, 32-35F for a matter of weeks is what is specified here in this thread.

would love some opinions here. i just brewed a 1.055 saison on 8/30 with WY3711 and mashed 148–149 for 120 minutes, and it's going to be my last brew in this apartment/region. in 3–4 weeks i'm moving across the country from cambridge, ma to austin, tx (a long way). the beer will be on it's 3rd or 4th week by then. i usually keg, and do so at week 3 or 4, but i was strongly considering bottle conditioning this batch (because it's a saison). the problem is, i'm not sure i'll have the...

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I would use a chart like this one;

What serving temp do you like?

My guess is that you will be partially carbed and need to add some head pressure to get it there.

I just brewed an English Mild. While researching the recipe, I came across this....

Mild needs just enough carbonation to impart a bit of mouthfeel and to drive the aroma out of the glass and up to your nose. Too much carbonation and the beer becomes dry, harsh and acidic. Gentle carbonation can make the beer feel creamy. Target a carbonation level of 2 volumes for bottled, 1.5 volumes for kegged and just over 1 volume of CO2 for cask conditioned beer.

If all vessels were carbonated the the...

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Was thinking about you the other day shib wondering what you were up to and here you are ;).

English cask beer is lightly carbonated and can be served in two ways. Either 'on the counter' in which case you really want to drink it in a few days as air is sucked in every time you pour a beer. The other way is that it is pumped under very low pressure through the beer engine. (From memory, the beer engine still needs gas pushing the beer to it but only enough to overcome gravity. Been twenty...

so a group of us got together and bought a used reconditioned wine barrel (225L).
we each brewed the same recipe - Robust Porter, and got together last night for the barrel filling. what an excitement!.
the recipe:

I am currently fermenting a Vienna Lager and am considering what to do regarding a Diacetyl rest and lagering and am hoping I can get some advice/input.

I have looked at How to Brew by JP and Brewing Classic Styles JZ&JP and I have also seen some old threads in BIABrewer and I think between the three sources I understand but :think:

If I have it right, the techniques are started at about 3/4 way into primary fermentation and continue until fermentation finishes. A D rest is optional...

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Ian - The only true way to know if you need to do a diacetyl rest is to see if it is present/detectable in your sample.
A problem can be if you are capable of detecting it or not, I can't remember ever smelling or tasting butter/popcorn/oily finish in any of my beers. But I don't know whether that is due to it not being present or whether I just cannot detect it?

A simple answer - If you can't detect it in your sample, and it tastes ok to you, then don't worry about it.

I looked at all kinds of ways to try and filter my beer and none of them were very cheap. I wanted to be able to filter the beer and not lose much of it in the process. I also wanted a cheap easy to clean reusable filter media. My filter cost me about $20 not including the tubing which I already had. I used 2 pvc pipe but any size would probably work. The filter media is a polyester voile curtain I got at Big Lots for $4.

One thing I should have said is that I'm able to crash chill my fermentor these days. If I couldn't, I'd probably still be filtering. So there's one example I should have mentioned pr8. Filtering is really handy in situations like that and yours.

With that oxygen problem you mentioned, you can always put a shot of CO2 into the filter and lines if you are worried. Another thing...

Just curious, I'm up to three kegs so far and my freezer will hold two .Is it ok to switch the kegs out from time to time. Just concerned about taking a keg that's at about 35 to 75 deg. Will it harm the beer?
I guess i could just drink faster :lol:

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long term storage above 65F will cause a delta shelf life decrease! it has happened to me with kegs only lasting a few months, then near the end taste leaning towards not so tasty. try not to swap warm-cold-warm-cold a bunch of times either.

I have just purchased a fermenting fridge and controller (wave goodbye to the frozen pet bottles) :P and was looking at trying a lager.

The question i have is around the times required to make a lager. From what i have read i will need to (rough times quoted here) ferment for 2-3 weeks at 10 degrees or so and then once fermentation is complete store it at near freezing for another 4 weeks. Does the storing at near freezing for 4 weeks need to be in a fermentor or can this be done in...

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Speaking of lagering, I just checked my helles and noticed an ice berg sticking out of the beer! I've been using a new temp probe and the fermenter was touching the cooling coils!

Anyway, dialed it up to 4C from 2C and pulled the fermenter away from the back of the fridge

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