Choosing a backpack can be tricky, especially for someone who is
just starting out. You need to know what you are carrying
to choose the right pack, but if you are just starting out you don't
know what you are going to be carrying. The best suggestion I
can make is figure out what sort of trips you expect to take (duration
& conditions), and what backpacking style you will use
(ultra-light, light weight, hut2hut / hostelling, medium/heavy
weight). This information will give you a good starting
point. For experienced packers, I would suggest bring all your
gear in a duffel bag and try packs using your stuff rather than
simulated weights.

What you are carrying effects how much volume you will need, and
how substantial the suspension system needs to be. I typically tell people
don't get a pack that's larger "just in case you need more
room", this will only encourage you to bring too much stuff, will
be heavier, and more ungainly. If anything, you want a
pack which is slightly smaller than you need. It is likely that
over time you will find the weight and volume of your gear will go
down, and the slightly too small pack becomes just right. In the
mean time, use a stuff sack which you attach to the outside of your pack
with straps or under the top lid to hold the items that don't fit
inside the pack. As your food goes down move the items into your
pack.

Beside the backpack being able to hold everything you need it to,
the most important thing is to find the pack which
is comfortable when holding the load you plan on
carrying. The first issue is that the pack needs to fit you well. A
great pack which is poorly fit can be more uncomfortable that a cheap
pack which fits you. There is a nice video made by REI
about adjusting
backpack fit which will give you a good idea of what to look
for. One caviet, if you are looking at packs without load lifters, or
where the load lifted doesn't attach to the frame, you want the
shoulder strap anchors to be slight above the shoulder top rather than
slightly below. Ideally, you should go to a outdoor outfitter that
employs experienced backpackers or climbers who can help you get a
good fit. Note: many of the larger outdoor stores employee
people who do not have significant experience backpacking and
climbing. Make sure the person who is helping you actually knows
what they are talking about. The first step to select a pack which has
the the right torso length. Typically you measure from the
seventh vertebrae to the small of your back and see what size pack the
manufacture suggestions. You should place weight in the pack to
simulate the sort of load you expect to carry and give it a try.
But this is not always strait-forward since packs have multiple
adjustments. That's why it is important to go somewhere that has
experience sales personnel. Finally, check with local stores to
find out if it is possible to rent the pack you like for a weekend or
has a great return policy like REI. This could save you from
buying a pack which seemed good in the showroom but isn't comfortable
after a hard day of use.

I can't stress enough how important getting a comfortable
backpack can be. Other than your footwear, no other piece of gear is as
likely to ruin a fun trip than a backpack which isn't comfortable. My
experience is that a well fitting backpack carries 20 lbs so well that I can
actually forget that I am carrying a pack, and that I can carry 40 lbs+ for days without
any shoulders or hip soreness or pain. Do not scrimp on
your pack. Get a pack which is comfortable for you.

If you are looking for a pack for european backpacking / trekking, where you
are going from hut to hut, or hostel to hostel, you might want to look at my
notes about packing light for travel.

Internal -vs- External Frame Packs

There has been a debate running since at least the 1970s
as to whether internal or external frame packs are better. I doubt this
debate will ever end. My observations are as follows:

Internal Frame Packs: These days most people seem to use
internal frame packs. An internal frame pack uses foam, plastic, metal,
and/or carbon fiber which is located inside the pack to give the pack
structure and effectively transfer weight to the hip strap. Advantages are
that internal frame packs tend to be easier to balance since they are closer to
your body and are less likely to get snared on things if you are climbing or
going cross country. The downside is that your back doesn't get much
ventilation.

External Frame Packs: What nearly everyone used
1960-1980. External frame packs typically have a ridged
metal or plastic frame which has shoulder and waist straps on one side
to allow you to carry the pack, and some sort of bag on the other side
to hold your stuff. These packs are good for hauling large amounts of
gear. They also tend to be better in hot weather because they
can provide better ventilation for your back, provide lots of pockets
to make organizing your gear easier, and allow you to secure gear
against the frame to minimize shifting of your heavier gear.
External frame packs also tend to be more adjustable so they are good
for people who are growing of as packs which get used by a number of
people of variable size. Over the years I have had a number of
external frame packs including the original Kelty Tioga and a JanSport
D2, but I never managed to find one which was really comfortable for
more than 10 miles. On the other hand, there are many people who
absolutely love their external frame pack. Don't "upgrade"
you old external frame pack if it is working well for you. I have met
a number of people who were convinced to get rid of their external
frame packs and get a "modern" internal frame pack only to
find that they liked their old pack better and then were unable to
find a comparable external frame pack on the market. They ended
up hunting on ebay for a pack just like the one they gave away a few
months earlier. Most external frame packs are quite heavy, but
there are a few that are quite light. Some people save weight
by replacing the heavy fabric pack bag with light weight stuff sacks.
This is described on
Brawny's The
Packless Pack System webpage.

Durability & Materials

I have seen many people (including myself) obsess on pack durability. We have
all heard about, or seen packs fail in the back country and we don't want this
to happen to us. All the catastrophic failures I have seem stem from poorly
constructed packs made from mediocre materials. Often these packs came from big
box discount stores. Most often, I have seen their seams rip out. For people
doing trail hiking, a well constructed pack made from even light weight
materials like sil-nylon will be sufficiently durable. If your pack does
run into something, it can typically be repaired with some tape (duct, gorilla,
etc). I know several people who have thousands on miles on ultralight sil-nylon
backpacks that weight less than 1lb. Some light weight packs use mesh pockets
which are fairly prone to damage. If you are concerned about long term
durability, especially if you go off trail sometimes, I would recommend fabric
pockets. Climbers and people who spend the majority of their time bushwacking
are justified in concerns about durability. They face a lot more wear and tear
than a trail hiker.

If durability is your top issue, then 100% spectra is likely the way to go,
but you pay a 2-3x premium for this. Next up would Dyneema and Dyneema X which
mix of nylon and spectra threads. Most of the companies that make 100%
spectra packs are oriented to climbers like McHale Packs and WildThings. Also
interesting is Dimension Polyant (used in the old Mountainsmith Ghost) and 1.5oz
cuben being used by Zpacks. Joe has a
video
showing the tear strength of 1.5oz cuben. Finally there is the old standby
Cordora, which tends to be heavier, but also cheaper than the other materials
listed here.

What Backpacks I Use

Since I started backpacking in the 1970s I have taken at least eighteen backpack out for
at least 60 miles each. I have checked out numerous other packs in a more brief
manner. Out of all those packs, I have chosen to keep two. The Gossamer Gear Gorilla Pack has become my go-to pack for most
trips. Actually I own two, the first version which is a loaner pack, the the
2012 version which is what I use on most trips. My
other pack is a first generation Osprey Aether 60. I haven't used the Aether 60
myself since 2005, but it has worked out well as a loaner because of it's
highly adjustable torso length, high carry comfort, and reasonable volume.

I would not recommend novice to start out using an
ultra-light style unless you are going some place with mild conditions. There are skills which need to be developed to be safe
and it takes some practice to figure out what you should take and what you can
leave behind.
Ultra-light packing is minimizing absolutely everything and relies on effective
use of technique to keep you comfortable and safe. Ultra-light backpacks are frameless rucksacks (think
high volume book bag) made out of a light-weight fabric. The philosophy is that if you aren't carrying too
much weight, you don't
need a frame or super heavy fabric... make the backpack as light as possible
and save up to 6 lb as compared to heavy weight backpacks. Some people swear frameless backpacks are the most comfortable way to carry
<30lb of weight. For me, 14lb is the cutover for most ultra-light packs.
I have found that I would rather carry a 16 lb pack with a frame, than a 14 lb
pack without a frame. The general run of thumb is frameless packs are great up
to 20lbs, +/-5lb given individual preferences. I would
never use
a ultra-light pack with more than 30 lb because the
lack of a frame makes load transfer to your hips inefficient resulting in most
of the pack weight being carried by your shoulders. Ultra-light backpacks
typically use the combination of a sleeping pad and tight packing to provide a
suspension. For more information about how this works, take a look at BPL's
For a more analytical analysis of the effectiveness of frameless pack
suspensions, check out
Frameless Backpacks Engineering Analysis which looks at how much the pack collapses as weight is added to it.

Ultralight packers tend to carry
packs weighting 10-15 lbs and will likely be ~1800cu/in for weekend trips.
Week long without resupply you want a pack which has ~2600cu/in and can carry
20-25 lbs. If you are in locations without good water supplies, you will
need to carry significantly more weight and volume and should seriously consider
a light weight pack. My experience is that ultra-light packs aren't for
everyone.

There are a number of companies which make high quality ultra light
packs which I would recommend including
Elemental Horizons,
GoLite,
Gossamer Gear (formerly GVP),
Hyper Mountain Gear,
MLD, and
ZPacks. All of these companies
produce high quality frameless packs. Some of these packs also offer
removable stays which allow them to carry heavier weights comfortably.
If you aren't finding what your are looking for from one of these companies
you might want to get a
custom zimmerbuilt pack
BPL has released the
frameless pack state of the market (2011). There was a
Frameless Pack Review Summary (2004) and a
Superultralight backpacks Review (2006) that you might find useful if you
are looking at older packs. After
trying numerous frameless packs, I came to the conclusion that I would
happily pay a 1lb weight penalty to get a framesheet or curves stays because I
found packs with light weight frames significantly more comfortable than packs
that merely used tight packs and foam sleeping pads for their suspension.

In many of my recommended pages I list specific models. I am not
going to list any specific models, because all of the minimalist
ultralight packs I have experience will are no longer made.

The following are packs that I think are interesting from a historical
perspective:

Rivendell Mountainworks
Jensen Pack, $165, one of the original frameless fabric packs introduced
in the early 1970s and copied by Chouinard as the Ultima Thule. Haven't
tried this pack. I have an old friend who still uses his Jensen and claims
it is still the best carrying pack he has found. I know a number of people
who used this pack in the 1970s and did not like it at all. It's not clear to me if
this was a design issue, preferences issue, or if the people who hated the
Jensen pack were overloading it and then expected load carrying capacity of
an external frame pack.

GoLite
Breeze$69:
One of the first commercially produced
ultra-light packs. Personally, I don't understand why this pack is so
popular. People talk about it being so light that they often carry it on a
single shoulder. My response is that any pack which is less than 20 lb
can be carried on a single shoulder, and that a pack which is more
comfortable over a single shoulder means that the shoulder strap design
sucks. I was so disappointed with this pack I returned it to the store I
purchased it from.

There are also a couple folks who have worked on turning other gear into packs
such as sleeping pads / hammock?!
StrapPack
and your entire sleeping shelter system like
Gearskin.

Light weight packers carefully select light weight gear,
and don't take a lot of luxury items... the luxury is carrying a light pack that
isn't fatiguing. I would recommend anyone starting out to follow a light
weight style. As a light weight packer you optimizes for carry comfort
like an ultra-light packer, but you bring a little extra gear to give larger
safety margins and more comfort in camp. Weekend pack should carry 15-25 lbs and have ~2600cu/in.
Week long trips without resupply you want a pack which has ~3600cu/in and can
carry 25-40 lbs. Light weight packs are also great for people who are
otherwise ultra-light packers who want to have a bit more carry comfort or need
to carry a fair amount of food or water in addition to their ultra-light gear
(this is me). Light-weight packs typically weight between 1.5-3 lbs. BPL.com has a nice summary of
light weight internal frame packs (2004) and a
light weight, heavy loads (2008) market survey. It would also be useful to
look at their
frameless pack state of the market (2011) which looks
as several packs which have removable stays which make them useful to lightweight
style backpackers. Packs I would recommend looking at:

Gossamer
Gear Gorilla: $205, 24oz, 2800ci pack. The pack can be used like a typical
frameless pack, but was designed to use the combination of a foam sleep or sit pad
attached to the outside of the pack in combination with a removable U shaped
aluminum double stay. The stay is easily reshaped for a custom fit which could
be an issue with heavier loads, but I didn't have any problems with the stay
deforming with <25lb loads. The frame isn't seated into the hip strap system
which ultimately limits it's weight carrying capacity and means that that more
care needs to be used in packing than the average internal frame pack. The
Gorilla has a removable wrap around
waist strap and extra wide shoulder straps which I have found quite comfortable.
The material is more durable than the typical sil-nylon ultralight pack. The
side pockets are easy to reach while wearing the pack with a large mesh
pocket on the back of the pack. The biggest problem with the pack is that the
foam against the back means there is no where for the moisture to go so it is as
sweaty to wear as the ultralight packs that have sil-nylon against the back.
I found with loads less than 25lb this might be the most comfortable pack I
have used. If you need more volume, there is the
Mariposa Plus

Granite Gear Blaze A.C. 60 This is a well designed light weight pack which should be
easy to find in physical stores. It is updated version of their classic Nimbus Ozone. Suspension
system is much better than the Crown V.C., but not as good as the Nimbus Ozone
it replaces. The torso length is semi adjustable which allows the user to tailor
the fit to your specific body dimensions.

Six Moon Designs StarLite
(my review) $180: 23oz (no stays, 28oz with stays). Thoughtful design. Good size and easy
access to items. The best suspension system I have found in a frameless
pack if you use a foam pad. Acceptably comfortable to 27lb without stays,
up to 35lb with stays.

ULA-Equipment:
Makes a range of light weight of packs. There website explains
what volume and weight carrying capabilities each of their packs
has. Mostly mail order, though
there are several stores such as Downworks in Santa Cruz which carry
them.

There are a number of light weight internal frame packs which merit attention
including:

Elemental Horizons Aquilo got a very good review on backpackinglight.com and there has been
very positive buzz about it on some mailing lists I am part of. I have no personal
experience, but it sounds like has found a good balance for a decent about of volume, carry comfort, and light weight.

Granite Gear Crown V.C. 60 (Ki for women) which is an update of my beloved
Vapor Trail. $199, 34oz,
3200ci (usable). Unfortunately, in the process of adding a number
of nice features, I believe the lightened the suspension system
which makes it not nearly as comfortable as the Vapor Trail which
could carry 35lbs comfortably. Torso length is fixed so if you are a bit
short, or a bit long you might find this pack isn't very comfortable.

Gregory Z Packs: Various sizes. Ok packs, though I found them
heavier and not as comfortable as class leading light weight packs. They have
a very prominent lumber pad which I find very uncomfortable.
.

Kifaru Lightweight Packs: New, I
have no experience. Lightweight packs reported to carry heavy weight loads well. Historically they have made light weight packs for the military and hunters.

LuxuryLite Stackpack modular pack which is somewhat expensive, using a
carbon composite frame which looks very nice.
MedicineMan has written two reports about his early experiences
Luxurylite
Recieved and
LuxuryLite hit the trail. I tried this pack in 2004. While
strange looking, it was very usable: easy to pack and find items, has one of the
best weight / volume ratios, very adjustable, and the recliner feature was
really nice. Alas, it didn't carry comfortably for me. I should say that it was as comfortable as any external frame
pack I have used, I just haven't been happy with any external frame pack.

McHale
UL Alpine Packs $350-650 : Custom made packs which are fitted to the
user with a wide variety of options and accessories. Owners of Dan's packs
rave about their carry comfort. Many of his designs are
especially nice for climbers who want to use the same pack for approach,
attack and summiting. Dan's workmanship and attention to detail is top rated. If you need an exceptionally durable pack
for climbing or
bushwhacking, you might want to consideration to one of Dan's packs, since he is
just about the only one who made 100% dyneema (spectra) packs.

Osprey Exos 58 (review).~2lb,
58l. Light pack with a lot of features and ventilation! for the back
. I am sure
there are lots of people who are going to love this pack. This pack wasn't
super comfortable for me, but I expect that it will be good for many other
people up to 30lbs or so. A full size Bear Vault fits
horizontally at the top of the pack with room to spare. Osprey now offers an
unlimited lifetime warranty, so even if you have some concerns about the ultralight materials, be confident that any problem will be taken care of.
Also availible in 34L, 46L sizes.
The 46l would be a great size for me except that
it's not really hear canister friendly. The BearVault 500 fits in but
it's a bit tight. A Barricade Weekender doesn't really fit at all. The
58 is a great size for larger volume packers. The full size Bear Vault fits
horizontally at the top of the pack with room to spare.

REI Flash: REI has been making consistant improvements in their
line of light-weight backpacks. While not reaching the quality and peformance
of the best cottage industry backpacks, they are well designs, carry
comfortably, , and can be seen and tried on in a physical store (if you
have an REI nearby.

Six Moon Designs Traveler Much like the Starlite but design for an adventurer traveler
who is going on airplanes. I think this is likely to be the best pack for
someone who is doing a long term trek across the world mixing back country
with hostel stays.

Boreas Gear is a new company that is making an interesting
line of packs. I have no personal experience with them but they look worth a look.

Discountinued but Noteworthy

Dana Designs Racer-X $165, variable sizing, 2lb 8oz. The Racer-X is an
internal frame with mesh compression system designed to hold a stuff sack, or
dry bag. You can adjust the size of this pack by using different sized
sacks.

Gregory
"G" Pack, $149: weights 2 lb 14oz, and only holds
2995ci. Some people have had issues with
durability in the first version of this pack. I didn't think
this pack was as comfortable as the other Gregory
packs I have worn. I can't imagine selecting this pack over the Vapor
Trail, but folks at the Berkeley REI tell me that many of their customers find this pack more
comfortable than the Vapor Trail?! I don't get it. It has a stiff
back which hits me the wrong way. Just goes to show that people are different.

Kelty
Cloud 4000, $500 (discontinued): Can be configured in a number of ways
including as a frameless pack making it extremely versatile. Made from
100% Spectra cloth which makes this pack very durable and also very expensive.
I have moderate experience with this pack on the trail and one one which I use
when my Gorilla pack isn't appropriate. I find that fully configured that the
Cloud is adequately comfortable carrying up to 40lb.
For the same money you could buy a custom fit McHale pack
which seems like a much better deal.

Mountainsmith Ghost / Seraph,
$150, 36oz, 2800ci. I found this pack to be adequately
comfortable up to 28 lb so long as I don't over stuff it. Nicely designed for an access
and usability perspective. Panel loading with a zipper that extends 2/3 of
the way down the pack. Some people complain that the zips will open
accidentally, but I haven't personally seen that problem. Big side pockets are easy to
reach while still wearing the pack. The mesh used for the pockets isn't
that durable, but the rest of the pack is quite durable, especially when
considering how light this pack is. Ventilation for the back is a bit better
than many light weight internal frame packs. The hip belt is rather wide but
thin. Some people find it to be very effective, but my experience
wasn't great... not sure if it was the width or they way the straps were
anchored into the sides. The maximum circumference of the size L seems to
be around 36 inches without the extension strap which can add eight more
inches. I do not find this pack nearly as comfortable as my Vapor Trail.
Within a few miles of a a trip start I found myself wanting a different
pack. Another issue is that the shoulder straps are sewn in
and not that adjustable so some people will likely find the pack a good fit
and others won't. A minor nit which can be adjust with a little
silicon sealer is that the straps have a tendency to slip. There is
also a size M, and the Seraph which is designed for smaller women. I took
the Ghost on a few test hikes and then sold it. My daughter has been
using the Seraph for several years and loves it.

Mid-weight packers are the most common / main-stream. You select standard backpacking equipment and take enough gear to feel
that you will be safe in comfortable in a wide range of conditions.
Weekend pack should carry 30-40 lbs and have ~3500 cu/in worth of space.
Week long trips without resupply means that you want a pack which carries holds
40-50 lbs and ~4800cu/in. Mid-weight packs tend to be 3-5lbs. Boy
Scouts tend to have a mid-weight approach.

Mid-weight style packers can use light-weight style packs for shorter trips,
but if you are going for a week+ a larger and more structurally sound pack
should be used. For 40lb+ plus loads I have tried packs by
Granite Gear,
Gregory,
Osprey and
ArcTeryx. I have
liked most of the Osprey packs I have tried (except the Exposure for some
reason), Gregory where generally ok, and there is something about most of the
ArcTeryx that just doesn't work for me, though many people see to love them.
I know a number of people who really like the external frame packs made by
JanSport and
Kelty (they also made
a number of internal frame packs... none of which stand out as particulary
remarkable). I have not looked
at this class of pack in great detail in a number of years, though I have
tried several packs recently. If I was asked to recommend a mid-weight
pack I would recommend first trying:

Osprey Atmos (mens) / Aura (womens). Availible is multiple volumes. Very
adjustable hip strap and torso length makes it easy to customize the fit for
each person. Reasonable weight, a bit more than 3lb depending on size / model.
Some ventilated for the back make is more comfortable in hot conditions.

REI Flash 62. This pack suprised me. Reason weight, good carry
comfort for me, seems to be well designed. A HUGE improvement over the first
version of this pack.

Osprey Aether 60 - 1st generation
(my review)
$199: 3lb 8oz, (pre 2006), 3900ci, <40lbs
comfortable. The pre 2006 Aether 60 was the most comfortable pack I have used
for loads 25-40 pounds. It is very easy to adjust torso size, has a great hip
strap, and excellent compression system if you are carrying a low volume load.
The side pockets are easy to access even when the pack is on your back.
The Osprey Arial is the female version of the Aether and is reported to be one
of the most comfortable women oriented packs. Alas, as Osprey added features
this pack is now almost 5lbs. I can't recommend the current version. This is the pack I use on
the rare occasions that I can't get everything I need into my Vapor Trail (and
as a loaner to friends). This is a great pack for someone who is transitioning
from a mid-weight to a light-weight style. Every time a friend
needed to borrow a pack I let them try all of my packs. The Aether 60 was chosen
100% of the time.

Mountainsmith Auspex/Chimera $230: weights approx ~4lb holding ~4000cu/in.
Below 35 lbs I think other packs like the Osprey Aether 60 are more
comfortable. If you really need to carry more than 35 lbs, I would check out the Auspex. The frame sheet + two stays holds up with 50+ lb loads and provides a
reasonable amount of ventilation for your back, the pack bag material is quite
durable, there is a removable hydration pouch, a side zipper to improve access,
a light colored back to make seeing inside easier, and the floating lid converts
to a fanny pack.

Heavy weight style is when you
bring whatever you are going an for an extended period of time without resupply
or foraging, or if you are looking for maximum comfort for the camping or activity part of the trip
(at the expense of the hiking being comfortable). Serious camera gear, comfy camp chairs, lots
of climbing gear for an extremely technical assault, wine in glass bottles, etc. For a heavy
weight, weekend pack should be able to carry 40-50 lbs and has ~5000cu/in. Week long without resupply
you want a pack which has at least 7000cu/in and can carry 70-80 lbs.
Heavy weight packs often weight more than
6lbs!

I know a number of people who carry very heavy load who
swear by McHale
Packs, Dana Design Packs,
Arc'Teryx
Bora 95, and Mystery Ranch
packs, but I have no personal experience carrying huge weights in any of these
packs. I used to carry these sorts of weights in external frame packs.
I am glad I don't do this anymore.

Summit packs are used to reach the summit of a nearby mountain, often during
a multi-day trek. Typically a base camp is made and the majority of the gear
carried to that point is left behind for the assault on the summit. There
are a number of ways to carry your gear to a summit:

Already carrying an ultralight or lightweight pack? Just carry
everything up to the summit. You don't have to return they way your
came. You don't need to find the gear you left behind. If the conditions
turn against you, you have all your gear with you. This is what I do most of
the time.

If you carry a ultralight or light pack but want to save weight for the
assault? Use your pack, but leave whatever you don't need behind in a
dry bag or protected by your shelter. There are some packs which have
been specifically designed to carry large loads during an approach, and then
shrink for summiting. Example of this sort of design are a number of
packs made by HcHale Packs, and modular packs like the Kelty
Cloud line.

If all you need is a drink, a small snack, and basic emergency gear,
then you could get away with using a waist pack than
weight as little as a a few ounces. You could use the waist pack
as a ditty bag which holds your essential items in your pack to make them
easy to find.

There are countless daypacks on the market these days. Some people use
daypack for fast and light over night trips. There are three factors which
should be considered when selecting a daypack.

Volume/Haul Capacity: Packs vary wildly in the size, shape,
and what sort of weight that are designed to carry. My suggestion
would be to take a few minutes and think about what you want to carry
in pack, and then find a pack which fits those items. I often bring
the items I want to carry to the store in a duffel bag, and then load
up the packs I am thinking about with the items I plan on carrying. If
a pack isn't big enough for the items you want to carry it isn't going
to be that useful. If it is much larger, it will encourage you to
carry more than you want or need (we all seem compelled to fill packs
up, even if we don't need to). My experience is that a 20L
(1200cu/in) pack will hold a light jacket, a book or two, a small
camera, a water bottle, and a few small items. When traveling
with my wife and daughter I have found that a 30L (1800ci) pack works
pretty well for day activities, or 40L (2400ci) if I am bring for
family items plus a full size DSLR, and number of lens protected by
Domke wraps.

Comfort / Fit: If the pack isn't comfortable you will have a
miserable time. It is important to find a pack which fits you
well. This is especially true for daypacks since they tend not to be
adjustable. I have found that many daypacks are too short for my torso
and become uncomfortable after a number of miles. My wife who is quite
short has found many daypacks are too long for her torso, likewise
uncomfortable. Besides fit, other factors which effect comfort include
what sort of padding / ventilation the pack provides, what sort of
shoulder strap / waist straps the pack has, etc. Another issue is what
is the suspension like. Is it a frameless pack (which most daypacks
are), have a foam frame sheet, stays, etc? Depending on what you are
carrying the suspension could make a big difference in comfort. My
best suggestion here is go to a local outdoors store and try on a
number of packs which have been loaded an equiv weight / bulk that you
expect to carry for your activities.

Features: Various activities require different features. The
question I would encourage you to ask is what is the set of activities
I want to use this pack for. For example, if you are doing some back
country skiing you will want lash points for the skiing a loop for an
ice axe, and maybe a pocket for a shovel. If you are trail running you
most likely want a hydration system (you might want this for all
activities). If you use crampons a lot, you would want an extra
durable patch were you lash your crampons on. If you have lots of
small objects that you want to find easily you will want a pack with a
number of pockets and a divide main section. Do you want easy access
to all items then go with a panel loading pack or do you favor a more
durable and lighter pack in what case go with a top loading pack. Do
you want a fully padded hip strap for carrying extra heavy weight, or
a simple webbing strap. I could go on... but I think you get the
idea.

When I think about daypacks, I typically think daypacks fall into five
different categories.

"Standard" Daypack: There are hundreds of
"standard" daypacks in the marketplace. Most hold around
1500-2500 cu/in and weight betwen 2-4lbs. Most day packs are overbuild
making use of extra heavy duty materials, lots of zippers and
features, and thick padding which is normally not required for
comfort. My favorite "standard" daypack was the Eagle Creek
Bedouin which is no longer made (sigh). One thing I really liked
was that there was a divider between the top and the bottom of the
pack which could be unzipped. I have found this seperation was more
useful that having several sections of a daypack which go from top to
bottom. Alas, I don't know many daypacks that are built this way.
It seems like companies are constantly change daypacks in this category,
so I wouldn't suggest any specific models since by the time someone
reads this changes will have happened. I will note that in this
category I would be looking for something that is 10-20l and weights
less than 1.5lb. Day packs don't need to be expensive.

Ventilated Daypack: Yet another product of German engineering,
ventilated daypacks
appeared several years ago. They use a light weight frame which keeps a mesh
panel taut against the wearers back enabling good ventilation. The
VauDe Siena 40 Daypack
(my review) now discontinued,
is my favorite pack of this type. Today, I typically use
a Vaude
Wizard Air 30+4 which we got on sale at STP. There are a number of
companies that make good ventilated daypacks. Besides Vaude I would
look at the
Deuter
(especially the daypacks using their Advanced Aircomfort suspension system)
Osprey
(the Aura/Atmos, Sirrus/Stratos, and Exos lines), and The North Face Alteo line.

Packable Daypack: Typically ~1000cu/in, 5-10oz backpack made of
light-weight nylon with no padding. Often folds up into it's own pocket.
Appropriate to carry a few pounds of stuff such as a light jacket, a cliff bar
or two, a paperback, a small water bottle, and a point and shoot camera. There
is nothing that gives these pack structure so you have to pack them carefully
for them to be comfortable. A number of companies makes these sort of bags.
Most aren't that comfortable to carry for more than a couple of miles.
In the past, Kiva Designs
made a nice little pack called the Kiva Pico Jazz Pack which I
think has be replaced with a model I haven't looked at.
There are a number of other travel oriented companies like Eagle Creek that
make folding backpacks. Another options would be stuff sack / shoulder strap
packs like the REI Ultralight Flash, Outdoor Research DryComp,
or stuff sack / packs made by Oware.
If you want to be carrying more stuff such as insulating clothing, lots of
food, a larger camera... a standard daypack size of around 2000cu/in is an
appropriate size. I would suggest checking out one of the small volume
ultralight packs listed above. If none of these suit you, design a
custom pack and make it yourself or get someone like
Moonbow. A slight variation of
the packable daypack is the packable couriser style bag. I often find these
more comfortable than the backpacks because they don't depend so much on fit.
While not as minimalist as so, I am very fond of the Patagonia Ultralight Courier
I got several years ago. The model I have is no longer made, but I believe
Patagonia continues to make a bag like it.

Hydration Packs: Minimalist packs design to carry nothing but water,
first popularized by CamelBak. I have never used any of these very purpose
driven water packs. A lot of packs labeled "Hydration packs" and really basic
daypack with a couple of features to make them hydration system friendly: a
nylon sleeve to hold the water bladder near your back and some short of hole
which lets you pass the drink tube to the outside. Pretty much any daypack can
be fit with hydration system.

The general rule of thumb is that people shouldn't carry
more than 1/4 of their body weight. That means that a 60 pound child
shouldn't be carrying more than a 15 pound pack for an extended period of
time, a 100 pound child shouldn't be carrying more than 25 pound pack for an
extended period of time. I think this is still a pretty heavy load for kids,
ideally they should carry less. Our goal for around 12% of body weight.

There are a number of factors which effect selection a
pack for kids which aren't a factor for adults:

Growth: Kids are going to grow. If you want the pack to fit
for more than a year you need to get a backpack which has an adjustable
torso length. External frame packs tend to be highly adjustable. Deuter, VauDe, and Kelty
each make at least one kids size internal frame pack with a highly
adjustable suspension.

Durability: In general, kids are pretty hard on equipment. Most
kids are not sufficiently careful to use packs made from materials such as
light-weight sil-nylon, so you really want a pack body to be made from a
durable material such as Dimension Polyant, Dyneema, or Cordora.

Peer Pressure: Some kids like to be
trail-blazers / thought leaders. For these sorts of kids, getting a pack which
is different and in some way better than the standard is appreciated. Other
kids want to have the same pack as everyone else, and will
be terribly embarrassed being different, even if different is better.

Enforced sharing: Boy scouts
typically share equipment, food, etc. This means that even if all your child's
personal gear is ultra-light, the group might end up
bringing 8lb tents, cast iron dutch ovens, etc, and you will need to take your
fair share. So unless this is troop which has embraced ultra-light
techniques and gear, you kid will most likely want to get a pack designed for
mid-weight packing.

Daypacks: For very young children, Eagle Creek made a really
great daypack, but it has been off the market for awhile. Hopefully Eagle
Creek will start making this pack again. There are countless day pack / book
bags available for kids today. A florescent Barbie or shockingly bright Barney
backpack might not blend into the back country, but there isn't really a need to
buy a special pack for hiking... use whatever backpack goes to and from school
since they are already use to carrying that pack. In fact, kids might be happier with the bright color backpack, and you might as well since they are easier for you to see. I was very amused early on beause my daughter didn't care about
any of her gear other than it's color. Originally she really liked "Red".If you wanted to purchase a
purpose driven daypack, I would suggest the
CamelBak Scout or look at the kid's hydration packs at REI.

Backpacks: For smaller kids, there are only a few pack which have a
torso short enough, a waist strap which can be tightened enough, and has enough volume for all their gear (need
at least
1800ci). For example, 1850ci has just enough room inside it for a North
Face Tigger sleeping bag, a Big Agnes Insulated AirCore mummy sleeping
pad, a 1L platypus, and all my daughter's clothing, a favorite cuddly, her
clothing for a three season trip, eating utensils, toiletry kit and
flashlight. Even more volume would be required if the kids is fully self
supporting or carrying their fair share of group gear and food. I realize that
adult ultralight backpackers can easily get down below this volume, but most kids gear will be higher volume because items like
kid size 800 fill down sleeping bags are not a good investment. Most kids will
not be as careful as adults, and items have a limited lifetime because the
children will grow. It makes sense to purchase less expensive items such as
sleeping bags made using synthetic insulation.

For young kids (say <11y) I would suggest checking out the following
packs:

Any daypack/book bag: Use whatever backpack
is used daily for school books. Fill the day pack with whatever will fit
without being too heavy (I would recommend keeping their pack under 10 lbs).
Carry the rest of their gear in your pack and have a great time.

MLD Prophet:
(size XS). Finally, a good ultralight backpack sized for
kids! This would have been my first choice if it existed when my daughter
was younger. This pack weights just 8oz rather than they more typical 2lbs
for a basic daypack.

Deuter Fox 30
(torso 10-17", 2lb 10oz, 1,850ci, $79): Very comfortable for most kids
(though one girl who borrowed it didn't like it). The torso length is easily
adjustable with a pretty wide range as does the hip strap (goes down to
22"). Good size for kids who are carrying their own gear, but adults are
carrying food and shared items. Very durable material. Two side pockets and
top pocket provide some organizational features. Back pocket and side mesh
pockets are close to useless. You can strap a pad on vertically running ties
through the retaining straps for the top lid.

JanSport
Scout (torso 13-17in, 3 lbs 6oz, 3850ci): One of the classic
external frame packs used by boy scouts just starting out. Good weight /
volume, fits a good range for a growing kid. My daughter didn't like the
carry comfort of this pack but there are a host of kids who seem to be happy
with this pack.

Mountainsmith
Seraph - discontinued (torso 14-18", 2lb, 2600ci, $56): A very durable (aside
from the mesh pockets) light weight pack which can fit mid-size kids. One of
the lightest packs which has enough volume for kids to carry their personal
gear, food for a few days, and there part of items shared (shelter, cooking,
etc) provided they are light weight / low volume.

What I Look for In a Backpack

There is no right or wrong preferences when it comes to selecting a backpack.
You will likely prioritize and value things differently than I. I am particuarly
sensitive (and difficult to fit properly) because I have a moderately severe case
of scoliosis. Here is what I want in a pack (in rough priority order):

in a pack, so my recommendations might point you in the wrong direction. Here is
what I want in a pack (in my priority order):

Appropriate Volume: Overnight I am typically carrying around 2000ci.
Week long three season trips with bear canister I am carrying 2600ci.
Snow trips (which are pretty rare these days) normally run 2800-3200ci. A perfect pack would handle this
range of volumes well.

Light-weight Frame: I use an air mattress as my sleeping pad, and I normally carry
loads which are more than 16lb, but typically less than 25lb, always less than
35lbs. I have found that with this weight, and without
the stiffness of a closed cell foam mat, that I need sometime the
provides structure in
the pack, be it stays or a plastic frame sheet.

Curving Back: I have found that I like a pack which "leans" into me. I
believe that my thoracic curvature is a bit more aggressive than some
people. I want a solid connection at my waist, and I want the pack to curve
gently to my shoulders. I have found that packs that are too strait
bounce too much or feel like they are pulling away from my body.

Well padded, encircling, grippy waist straps. Wing hip belts typically
don't work well for me. The shape of my hips & waist are such that
tall, thin hip belts don't typically work well for me.

Minimal or no lumbar pad: I seem to have much less sacral and lumbar
curvature than some people. As a result most lumbar pads feel like they dig
into my back. Because of this, I typically carry my packs slightly lower
around my hips than what is considered "correct". I have found that
when I carry a pack in the "correct" location, I either have to tighten down
too much on the waist strap, put more weight on my shoulders which I don't
like, or need to periodically reposition the pack as it slowly inches down my
back until it hit the widest section of my hips.

Grippy back material: I like the pack to stay fixed on my back. I have
found that if the material against my back is somewhat grippy that the pack
stays put better. The opposite of this are packs that put sil-nylon against
my back. Particularly good have been the the rubberized mesh of the VauDe
Seina 45 and the slightly textured foam on the Granite Gear Vapor Trail, and
the mesh over foam of the GG Gorilla pack.

Load Lifter: With the pack leaning into me I like being able to pull on
load lifts to take even more pressure off the tops of my shoulders. Actually,
load lifters aren't an absolute requirement, but the shoulder strap top
anchors need to be slightly above the top of my shoulders.

Pocket which is reachable while walking: I want a place to store snacks which can be easily reached
while wearing the backpack. This could be side pockets which aren't too tall,
maybe even angled forward like the Ospret Aether 60. I have recently
discovered I like small pockets on my shoulder straps. I typically don't
like or pockets on the hip belts because when I take my pack off these
pockets end up in the dirt.

Appropriately Durable Materials: These days I most hike trails or am
in fairly open terrain when going cross country. For me, a sil-nylon body
with something like 210
Denier Dyneema for the pack bottom is sufficient, though I prefer the pack to
be something like Dyneema throughout.

Hydration Tube Access: Some convenient way to get a hydration hose a out of the pack,
but I don't require a hydration sleeve.

Narrow enough that the pack doesn't stick out much beyond the sides of my body.
Short enough that I can wear a wide brim hat without the hat rubbing against
the pack.

Back ventilation: I love my VauDe Siena Biking Daypack. The mesh
allows my back to breath. Alas, I have yet to find a pack that has
this feature which carries 25lb comfortably and also has enough room for my
bear canister.