ENCYCLOPEDIA

OF

NEEDLEWORK

By
Thérèse de Dillmont

Insertion—Plain stitches and overs

Knitting - VIII

Knitting is one of the earliest forms of needlework, and
one, which has been carried to the highest perfection. It would
be difficult to invent new stitches or patterns and, we shall
therefore confine ourselves to describing the stitches in general
use, and reproducing those of the old patterns we consider
the most useful, that our readers may make their own selection.

In former days, knitting served mainly for the manufacture
of stockings, and even now, in spite of machines, handknit
stockings, and numberless other useful and ornamental articles,
such as shawls, counterpanes, cradle-coverings, gloves, laces
etc. are in great request.

Besides its practical use, knitting is an easy and pleasant
pastime that can be taken up at odd minutes and even carried
on, whilst talking, or reading.

Knitting consists of loops, or stitches, as they are generally
called, formed by means of a thread and two needles.

In round knitting, four, or five needles are necessary for
the better handling of the work.

Through the loops formed in knitting, being connected
together in unbroken continuity, a very elastic fabric is produced,
which is specially suitable for making warm, and
closely-fitting wearing-apparel.

Materials.—Threads with a slight twist, such as Coton à
tricoter D.M.C, are the best. With regard to the thickness of
the needles, whether they be of steel, wood, or bone, your
choice must be determined by the quality of the thread used.

The accompanying table is intended to help inexperienced
knitters to match their needles and thread, we advisedly say,
help, as it is impossible exactly to determine the numbers that
will correspond, because every hand knits differently, and a
loose knitter has to use finer needles than a tight knitter.

Other materials are enumerated here, besides, what is
properly speaking, called knitting-cotton, as for caps, lace
edgings, insertions and so forth, finer kinds of thread and
threads with a stronger twist which show up the pattern better,
should be used.

Table of the approximate relation of the D.M.C threads
and cottons to the numbers of the knitting needles.[A]

Position of the hands in knitting (fig. 341.)—Lay the
thread over the fifth finger of the right hand, and twist it
round it, then carry it over the forefinger, which should be
kept close to the work, the work being held between the third
finger and the thumb. The left hand remains more or lessinactive, having merely, by a slight movement of the forefinger
to pass the loops, in succession, on to the needle in the right
hand, which forms the stitches. This position of the hands,
which is the one usually adopted in England and France, is
the one represented in our illustration. The Germans on the
contrary, lay the thread over the left hand, and can move the
hands much more quickly, in consequence. There are some
ways of casting on, which can only be done in the German
fashion.

To prevent the irregularity in stitches, the needles should
never be allowed to protrude more than 1 or 1½ c/m, from
the work. All exaggerated movement of the arms, which renders
knitting a very tiring occupation, should be avoided.

Fig. 341. Position of the hands in knitting.

Casting on.—Casting, or, setting on, as it is sometimes
called, is the formation of the first row of stitches which are
to constitute the foundation of the work.

There are four methods of casting on: (1) crossed casting
on, done in four different ways; (2) knitting on; (3) slipping
on, also done in two ways; (4) casting on with picots.

(1) Crossed casting on with a single thread (fig. 342).
Lay the thread over your fingers as though you were beginning
a chain of plain stitches, fig. 403, leaving a long end, sufficient
to make the number of stitches required, lying within the palm
of the hand. Put the needle in from below, into the loop onthe thumb, and pass it from right to left under that part of
the thread which lies between the forefinger and the thumb.
Then bring the thread through the loop on the thumb, draw
the thumb out, and lay the loop on the needle. In making the
next stitches, lay the thread over the thumb, so that the end
lies outside. Put in the needle under the front thread and
complete the stitch as before. This method of casting on is
generally done over two needles, one of them being drawn out
before the knitting-off is begun, to ensure a loose edge.

Fig. 342. Crossed casting on with a single thread.

Crossed casting on with a threefold thread.—This method
is similar to the last, only that the thread is taken threefold
and is drawn by the needle through the loop, which is formed
at the bend of the thread. Then you pass the single thread
over the left hand, and the triple one over the thumb, as shownin fig. 342, and make the same stitches, as above. The threefold
thread makes a broad chain at the bottom of the loops.

Double crossed casting on (fig. 343).—This can be done
either with a single or a threefold thread. In our drawing it is
done with the latter. The first stitch is made as we have already
described, only that you have to keep the loop on your thumb,
put the needle into it a second time, lay hold of the thread behind,
cast on a second stitch, and then only, withdraw your thumb.
In this manner two loops are made at once, close together.

Fig. 343. Double crossed casting on.

Crossed casting on, forming a chain (fig. 344.)—Begin by
making one such stitch, as we have described in fig. 341; for
the second and following stitches, bring the end of the thread
to the inside of the palm of the hand, so that it lies between
the thumb and the forefinger.

Fig. 344. Crossed casting on, forming a chain.

(2) Knitting on stitches (fig. 345).—Begin with a plain
crossed stitch; then take the thread and the needle in the left
hand, a second needle in the right, and catch it into the stitch
on the left needle, lay the thread under the right needle and
draw it through in a loop, through the loop on the left needle.
Then transfer it as a fresh stitch to the left needle; catch the
needle into this second stitch, and draw the thread through
it, to form the third, and so on.

This method of casting on is used for articles, that are
to have a double edge, (see figs. 355, 356), because stitches,
made in this way, are easier to pick up than the tighter ones;but it should not be used, where it will form the actual edge,
as the loops are always too open.

Fig. 345. Knitting on stitches.

(3) Casting on with slip loops (fig. 346).—Begin by casting
on one loop in the ordinary way, next, lay the thread, as in
German knitting, over the left hand, twisting it once only
round the forefinger, then put the needle in, upwards from
below, under the thread that lies on the outside of the forefinger;
draw out the finger from the loop, put the loop on the
needle to the right, take the thread on the forefinger again,
and so on.

Fig. 346. Casting on with slip loops.

Casting on with double slip loops (fig. 347).—Begin by
casting on a stitch in the ordinary way, then lay the thread
over the forefinger, the reverse way, so that it crosses between,
not outside the hand and the body of the knitter. Pass the
needle upwards from below, under the inside thread, and slip
this thread as a loop on to the needle. Continue to cast on,
inserting the needle under the front and back threads alternately.
This method is specially suitable for open patterns, where
you have to increase several times, in succession.

Fig. 347. Casting on with double slip loops.

(4) Casting on with picots (fig. 348).—Cast on two stitches
in the ordinary way and turn the work. Lay the threadover the needle, put the needle into the first stitch, from right
to left, and slip it on to the right needle, knit off the second
stitch plain, and draw the slipped one over it.

Fig. 348. Casting on with picots.

Cast on as many stitches as you want in this manner and
then pick up the picots thus formed, with an auxiliary needle,
and knit them off like ordinary stitches.

This method of casting on may be varied thus in the following
manner: having cast on the stitches as in fig. 348, throw
the thread over the needle and knit two stitches together.

Plain stitch (fig. 349).—This is the easiest stitch and the
first which a knitter has to learn. It is executed as follows:
Put the right-hand needle in, upwards from below, under
the front part of the first stitch on the left-hand needle, laythe thread from right to left under the needle, draw it through
the loop, and drop the loop off the left needle.

Fig. 349. Plain stitch.

Plain knitting is employed wherever a perfectly smooth,
even surface is required. It looks quite differently on the
wrong side from what it does on the right where it presents
the appearance of vertical rows of plaiting.

Back, or seam-stitch (fig. 350).—You may intentionally
knit the wrong side of plain knitting. This is called purling and
is done, in the following way: lay the thread over the left
needle, and put the right one, downwards from above, behind
the thread, into the loop on the left needle, lay the thread
upwards from below, over the right needle, draw it through
the loop, and drop the loop off the left needle. This stitch isused in knitting patterns, and for marking horizontal lines in
smooth surfaces, such as the seam of a stocking, for instance.

Fig. 350. Back or seam-stitch.

Plain stitch taken from behind (fig. 351).—Put the
needle in from right to left, under the back part of the stitch;
leave the thread behind the needle, then pass it from right to
left over the needle and draw it through the stitch.

Fig. 351. Plain stitch taken from behind.

Back, or seam-stitch taken from behind (fig. 352).—Put
the needle into the second part of the stitch, upwards from
below, and knit it as a back or seam-stitch.

Fig. 352. Back or seam-stitch taken from behind.

In plain stitch, taken from behind, the two threads of the
loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side, as they do in
plain knitting.

Back-stitch taken from behind, is only used for certain
open-work patterns.

Overs (fig. 353).—These form holes in plain knitting, and
are used for open-work patterns and for increasing.

Fig. 353. Overs.

To make an over, lay the thread over the needle, and in
the next row, knit this loop like any other stitch.

Each over adds one to the existing number of stitches. In
cases, therefore, where the number is to remain the same, you
have to make as many intakes as overs. Overs can only be
used in conjunction with other stitches.

Knot stitch (fig. 354).—This forms a raised spot in plain
knitting and is executed as follows: knit 1, and leave it on the
left-hand needle; put the stitch you have made with the right
needle back on the left, and knit it off. Make 4 or 5 similar
stitches, all issuing from the same stitch on the left needle, so
that you have 4 or 5 loops on the right needle; then drop the
stitch off the left needle, and pull the 4 first loops over the last one.

Fig. 354. Knot stitch.

Cable or chain stitch.—Chain stitches are used for strengthening
and equalizing the edges of articles that are made in
stripes. They can be made in two ways; either, you knit off all
the stitches on one needle, turn the work, put the needle into
the first stitch, as if you were going to knit it from the back,
and take it off the left needle without knitting it, the thread
to lie behind the needle; or, you knit off all the stitches on
one needle, turn the work, and knit off the first stitch.

The names of the stitches.—Out of the stitches that have
been already described, other stitches are formed, which, as
they are frequently alluded to in knitting directions, we shall
here enumerate, explaining all the terms, usually employed
in such directions.

Over, or increase.—Explained in fig. 353.
Throwing the thread once over the right needle.

Double over, or two increases.—Throwing the thread
twice over the needle.

Plain intake.—Knitting two stitches together plain. This
is done when the intake is to lie from left to right.

Purled intake.—Purling two stitches together. This is
done to make the stitches, that are knitted together, visible; or
in the case of a piece of work composed of stripes, on the
wrong side, when the intake is to lean to the right, on the
right side.

Plain decrease, taken from behind.—Knitting off two
stitches together, plain from behind. This is done when the
intake is to lie to the left.

Purled decrease, taken from behind.—Purling two
stitches together, from behind. This is done when, in articles
composed of stripes, the decrease has to be made on the wrong
side, and is to lie to the left on the right side.

Pulling over.—Slipping a stitch from the left needle to
the right without knitting it, knitting the next plain, and
pulling the slipped stitch over the knitted one. In this manner
two or three stitches can be pulled over the knitted one.

Casting off.—To prevent the stitches from unravelling
they are finished off in the following manner. Knit off two
plain, pull the first over the second and drop it, so that
only one remains on the needle. Knit the next stitch, and pull
the one behind over it, and so on. This chain of stitches, must
neither be too tight, nor too loose, but just as elastic as the
rest of the work.

Materials for stockings.—Stockings can be made of silk,
wool or cotton, entirely according to fancy, but for coloured
stockings, we cannot too highly recommend the D.M.C knitting
cottons, as more durable, in all respects, than either silk
or wool. They are manufactured in 360 different shades,
whereas, wool and silk are only to be had in a very limited
assortment of colours. For hand-knit stockings, Nos. 25, 30,
35[A] are the best, for machine-knit, Nos. 40 and 50.

Stocking knitting.—A stocking consists of five parts:
(1) the top, (2) the knee, (3) the leg, (4) the heel, (5) the foot.

(1). The top may be either ribbed, or knitted in an openwork
stitch of same kind or with a double-toothed edge,
fig. 356.

(2) and (3). The knee, and the leg down to the heel, are
generally plain knitted; it is only children's stockings that are
fancy knitted.

(4). The heel, is worked as straight knitting backwards
and forwards; by knitting first one row plain and then turning
back and knitting it purl. It is shaped to the foot by the intakes
at the top.

(5). The foot is knitted plain, with intakes from the heel
onwards, to get rid of the superfluous stitches. Then knit a
plain piece, without a seam-stitch, till you begin to decrease
for the toe, which can be worked in several different ways.

To ensure the right proportions between the several parts
of a stocking, the following directions should be attended to.
An ornamental top must never be taken into account, in measuring
the length of the leg. When the top part is finished,
you make the seam, at the beginning of the first needle of the
round, of one, or two purled stitches, or sometimes, a narrow
pattern of purled stitches. This marks the middle of the
stocking. For ordinary-sized stockings, knit plain from the top-band,
till the knitted piece, forms a square.

For stockings that are to cover the knee, knit half as much
again, that is one and a half times the width of the stocking.
This brings you to the calf of the leg. Pull the third stitch
after the seam, over the second, and knit together the two last
but one before the seam. There should be 12 rounds between
each of the first 3 or 4 intakes, and after that 8, until this partis one and a half times the width of the knee in length, and a
quarter narrower.

For the ankle, knit a plain piece, half the width of the knee
in length, without intakes.

For the heel, count the stitches on the four needles, exclusive
of the seam, and put two stitches more than the quarter
of the whole number on to the needles, to the right and left
of the seam.

For a heel to fit well, it should be as long as it is wide. In
order that they should wear better, the heel and the toe are
often knitted with double thread. Coton à feutrer D.M.C[A] is
made expressly for that purpose, and should be wound round
the thread of which the whole stocking is made. For the
instep, the part between the heel and toe, you must go on
decreasing from the heel, until you have 2 stitches less on
each needle, than you had at the ankle. Then knit the plain
part of the foot, which should be as wide as the ankle, after
which proceed to decrease for the toe, which should be a
quarter the length of the whole foot. In spite of this careful
subdivision, it is always well to count the stitches, to ensure
perfect regularity. The number of stitches cast on, at the
outset, for the same-sized stockings, must depend upon the size
of the wool or cotton; we can only give the numbers approximately.
Our calculation is based on the use of 5 needles; the
given number has therefore to be cast on four times.

Coton à tricoter D.M.C
Numbers to be used

Number of stitches to be cast on one needle for stocking ordinary-sized

Number of stitches to be cast on one needle for stockings that are to reach above the knee

25

32

36

30

34

38

35

36

42

40

40

46

50

42

50

Scalloped edge (figs. 355 and 356).—This is the simplestand strongest edge you can have for a stocking, and is called
the cat's-teeth edge.

Fig. 355.
Scalloped stocking edge.
Edge open.

Fig. 356.
Scalloped stocking edge.
Edge folded together.

Having cast on the stitches, knit 6 to 10 rounds plain,
according to the size of the cotton, then one round of alternate
intakes and overs. Knit as many plain rounds as before, and
with a sixth needle take up as many of the cast on stitches,
as you have stitches on one of the upper needles. Turn this
needle inwards, and
place it against the outside
needle and knit off
both needles together.
See that you knit the
corresponding stitches
off together, otherwise
the scallops that form
the edge will be crooked.

Common heel (fig. 357).—This is the
simplest form of heel,
and can be knitted
either with or without
an outside seam. Divide
the stitches into four,
and put two more on
each of the heel needles than on the others, then make, according
to the size of the cotton, from 15 to 20 seams; knitoff all the stitches on the right needle and a third of those on
the left. Supposing that you have 24 stitches, knit off 8, then
slip 1, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over, knit 2 plain,
turn the work, slip the first, and purl the next 8 stitches of the
second needle; purl the 9th and 10th together, purl 2, turn
the work to the right side, and slip the first stitch on to the
right needle. By means of these successive intakes after the 8
stitches, the knitting forms a plait on both sides of the heel.

Fig. 357. Common heel.

In all heels that are made after this pattern, the intakes
must begin on the right side and the last one must be made
on the wrong, so that once the heel is finished and the work
turned, you can go on knitting plain.

When you have finished the stitches of the two heel needles
up to the outside seams, take up the stitches on the sides of
the heel with a spare needle and knit them on to the left heel
needle, then knit the stitches reserved for the instep, take up
the stitches on the right side of the heel again and knit them
on to the fourth needle.

In the next round, knit all the stitches of the first needle plain,
excepting the 4 last;
knit the first and second
of these together and
the two last plain. Knit
the two first stitches of
the fourth needle plain,
slip the third, knit the
fourth and pull the
slipped stitch over.

Heel in steps (fig. 358).—After dividing
the stitches, make from
12 to 14 seams. Then
knit as many stitches
of the first needle as
you have seams at the
side; turn the work,
and begin the needle with the seam you made first. Knit off
as many stitches from the second needle as from the first.
Make the same number of seams, as for the first part of the
heel. When the seams are finished, take up the chain stitches,
on both sides, make a decrease by knitting the last stitch of
the small part and the first of the large, together; knit two;
turn the work; slip the first stitch, knit to the second side,
and decrease as in the
first part.

Fig. 358. Heel in steps.

When you have decreased
all the stitches
up to the last, take up
the slipped stitches of
the first part, and begin
the intakes for the instep
in the ordinary way.

There is not more
work in this pattern of
heel than in any other;
it fits closely and consequently
wears well.

Plain heel (figs. 359
and 360).—Those who
are not fond of purling
will appreciate this and
the following pattern for
a plain heel.

Fig. 359. Plain heel.

Knit off the stitches
of the first needle
after the seam; then
on to two spare needles,
cast on, 8 more stitches
than you had on one
needle after dividing
the stitches; put the
stitches of the third and
fourth needles together
and knit the first round
plain.

2nd round—knit together the 1st and 2nd, and the 9thand 10th of the first auxiliary needle; and the 10th and 9th
and 2nd and 1st of the second.

3rd round—plain.

4th round—knit together the 1st and 2nd and the 7th
and 8th of the first needle.

5th round—plain.

6th round—knit together the 1st and 2nd and the 5th
and 6th of the first auxiliary needle; and the 6th and 7th
and the last but one and the last, of the second.

7th, 10th, 11th, 13th, 14th, 16th, 17th, 19th, 20th
rounds all plain.

8th round—knit together the 1st and 2nd, and the 3rd
and 4th of the first auxiliary needle, and the 4th and 3rd,
and the last stitch but one and the last, of the second.

9th round—After the two last intakes, purl together the
4th and 3rd stitches before the end of the 1st and 3rd needle,
and the 3rd and 4th at the beginning of the 2nd and 4th
needles.

12th, 15th, and 18th rounds—Decrease, the same as in the
9th round.

21st round—knit 2 plain, at the beginning of the 1st and
3rd needles; knit the next 2 together; knit together the 4th
and 3rd, before the end of the 2nd and 4th needles; knit the
last stitches plain; go on decreasing in this way until the
purled stitches meet. After the plain round over the intakes,
add four plain rounds, divide the stitches that remain for the
sole, on two needles and cast off on the wrong side.

Now take up the auxiliary stitches, and in the first 3 plain
rounds, knit together the last and the first of the 1st and 2nd
needles, and the last and the first of the 3rd and 4th.

With the rest of the extra stitches make purled intakes,
knitting two plain rounds after each round with an intake.

For the other kind of plain heel also (fig. 360), auxiliary
stitches are required. Supposing that you have 20 stitches on
each needle, you must cast on 28 stitches on to each auxiliary
needle; knit together the 4th and 3rd stitches at the end of
the 1st and 3rd needles, and the 3rd and 4th of the 2nd and
3rd needles, so that you may have 4 plain stitches betweenboth intakes. Go on decreasing, knitting 2 plain rounds after
each round with an intake, until you have 6 stitches left on
each needle. Then knit together the first and last stitches of
each needle, one plain round over it, and finish with a chain
on the wrong side of the heel. Then take up the auxiliary
stitches and knit the instep.

Fig. 360. Heel knitted on the right side.

Italian stocking (fig. 361).—The heel, sole and toe of a
stocking always wear out before the instep. The Italians and
Greeks economise time and material and facilitate the renewal
of those parts that wear out, by knitting the upper part of the
foot in two pieces. After knitting the heel in on or other of
the above ways, work the foot as straight knitting with the
two upper needles only, until you have the necessary length.
Then knit the underneath part separately, in the same way.
You must keep a chain along all edges and a narrow seam
of one or two stitches. In the sole, which you make after finishing
the upper part, your intakes must come directly after and
before the seam. When you have got the same number of
rounds in each piece, join them together and begin the toe.

Fig. 361. Italian stocking.

Sew up the slits left open on either side, with a needle and
thread taking care to fit the corresponding stitches together.

In this manner, when one part wears out, you have only tounpick these side-seams and re-sole or re-heel the stocking as
the case may be.

Toe (fig. 362).—To begin as before, with the simplest and
most ordinary way of making this part of the stocking, divide
the stitches equally on to the 4 needles; knit together the 4th
and 3rd stitches before the end of the 1st and 3rd needles,
knit the 2 last and 2 first stitches of the 2nd and 4th needles
plain, and make an intake by
slipping the 3rd stitch, knitting
the 4th, and pulling the
slipped stitch over. Begin by
knitting 2 plain rounds after
each of the first 4 rounds with
an intake, and afterwards only
one. When you have only 4
stitches left on each needle,
collect them on two, and knit
them together, two and two,
on the wrong side of the
stocking.

Fig. 362. Toe.

Toe (fig. 363).—Here, before
beginning to decrease,
divide the stitches by 8, 10, or
12. Supposing that they have
been divided by 10, knit 8
plain; knit the 9th and 10th
together, 8 plain, knit two
together, and so on, the whole
way round. Then knit as
many plain rounds as there
are plain stitches between
2 intakes. In the next rounds
with intakes, you will have
one stitch less between each
intake, in the second therefore, there should be 7 plain stitches
between each intake, and you knit 7 plain rounds; and so
on to the 7th round, when 2 stitches will remain, followed
by 2 plain rounds; when there are only 4 stitches left onthe needles, turn them in to the wrong side of the stocking,
and finish off with a chain.

Fig. 363. Toe.

Toe (fig. 364).—Begin the intakes with the two first stitches
of each needle, by the slip and pull over process, knit one
plain round after each round with an intake. In the following
rounds, make the intake in the 2nd round with the 3rd and
4th stitches, in the 3rd, with the 5th and 6th stitches, in the 4th,
with the 7th and 8th stitches,
so that when finished the
intakes form a kind of spiral.
Finish off in the ordinary way.

Fig. 364. Toe.

Toe (fig. 365).—We will
describe one other kind of toe,
quite as shapely and easy to
make as the others.

Fig. 365. Toe.

1st round—purl the first
2 stitches on each needle together.

2nd and 3rd, 5th and 6th,
8th and 9th, 11th and 12th,
14th and 15th, 17th and 18th
rounds—plain.

4th round—1 plain, 1
intake with the 2nd and 3rd
stitches, and with the last 2
on each needle.

7th round—knit the 2 first
plain, make 1 intake with the
3rd and 4th stitches, and 1
with the 2 last.

In each of the next rounds
with intakes, knit 1 plain stitch
more.

When the two seams meet,
pull the last stitch on each needle over the first of the next;
knit the stitches between the intakes plain. Continue to decrease
in this manner until the last stitches are reached.

Mending knitting.—Knitted articles are repaired byreconstructing the web with a needle and thread. When
the stitches are not actually broken, they can be strengthened
by new ones made over them, by means of a needle
and thread.

Materials for darning stockings.—The thread used for
darning a stocking should be a little finer than that of which it
is made. Coton à repriser D.M.C[A] is the best, for as it consists
of several strands it can be subdivided as occasion requires.

Strengthening the stitches (figs. 366 and 367).—This
can be done in two ways. In fig. 366, the thread is brought
out between two horizontal bars, passed upwards over a perpendicular
bar, put in by the side of the same and brought
out between the next horizontal bars.

Work the second row of stitches backwards; take up two
threads on the left, pass downwards to the right, over one
thread, take up the thread you passed over, and so on.

Fig. 366.
Strengthening the loops.
First way.

The other way, fig. 367, is, when you have brought out
your needle, to carry it over one thread to the right and
upwards over two, take up the next two threads on the
left, pass downwards over two horizontal threads, and over one
thread to the right, and put in the needle where it first came
out; then working from right to left, take up two threads, pass
over one to the right, and downwards over two horizontal ones,and so on. In the next row, hold your work, the finished part
uppermost, carry the needle downwards over one horizontal
thread, bring it out between two threads that lie separately
and take it downwards again over two horizontal threads, pick
up two threads, working from right to left, pass upwards over
two threads and over one to the right, take up two to the left,
and so on.

Fig. 367.
Strengthening the loops.
Second way.

Repairing plain knitting (fig. 368).—When a broken
piece of stocking web requires to be replaced by new, draw
the new and the old pieces together with a needle and thread,
using the same thread the stocking is made of.

Fig. 368. Repairing plain knitting.

For this purpose, you must clear the loops, by ravelling
them out top and bottom, and slip them on to knitting needles.
The loops that are to be connected must lie exactly opposite
to each other. Enter your threaded needle upwards from below
through the first disengaged upper loop, and slip it off the
knitting needle, then enter the needle, downwards from above
through the first lower loop, and upwards from below through
the next, and draw out just enough thread to make the new
loop the same size as the old ones. Then enter the needle,
downwards from above, through the same upper loop you
took up before, taking up also the one next to it, and passing
your needle through it from underneath; draw out the thread
to form the new loop and descend again to the next, and so on.

Repairing purled knitting (fig. 369).—To repair ribbed
surfaces consisting of alternate rows of plain and purl, proceed
as follows: hold the article so that the row of purled stitches
is exactly opposite the upper part. Enter your needle upwardsfrom below, through the first loop of the upper part; join the
two lower loops together as in fig. 368; carry the needle
upwards again, and enter it upwards from below through the
first loop of the upper part and downwards from above,
through the loop next it. Join the lower loops again, as in plain
knitting.

Fig. 369. Repairing purled knitting.

Disengaging the loops for darning (fig. 370).—Where
the threads are broken, new loops
have to be made, and the broken
ones ravelled out and cut, so that
the horizontal loops may stand out
clear and distinct. Cut the threads
on the vertical sides so that the
loops form an edge and the hole is
square, clear two or four loops in
the corners of the hole, fold them
in and fasten them off at the back
by a stitch or two. The darns we
are next going to describe should be
made upon a ball to prevent drawing the threads too tightly.

Fig. 370. Disengaging the loops
for darning.

Darning on threads stretched horizontally (figs. 371 and372).—Carry a horizontal thread across on the wrong side, in
the place of each broken thread, securing it in the sound part
of the stocking, about two threads from the edge of the hole.
When you have made this foundation, put the needle in on
the right side near the stitch that is nearest to the sound part
on the left, fig. 371.

Fig. 371.
Darning on threads stretched
horizontally.
Position of the horizontal threads.

Fig. 372.
Darning on threads stretched
horizontally.
How to cover the horizontal threads.

Then descending, pick up the nearest horizontal thread
from below, so that the working thread lies to the right of the
needle, and cover all the horizontal threads you have laid in
this manner.

When you have taken up the last thread, pass the needle
downwards from above, through the nearest loop, and bring
it back through the one at which you entered it.

To make, in reascending, the second half of the loop, you
must lay your thread to the right of the needle, fig. 372.

When you have reached the last thread, enter the needle
at the loop, opposite the one it came out of.

Darning on threads stretched obliquely across (figs. 373
and 374).—As the illustration shows, you have to pick up all the
cleared loops, besides two or three on either side of the empty
space. The number and length of the threads which you carry
across, must correspond with those of the threads you have to
replace.

Fig. 373. Darning on threads stretched
obliquely across.
Position of the threads.

Fasten in, from the right side, a rather finer thread than the
one the original web is made of, and make a few stitches over
the existing ones, in the row you are about to complete.

Enter the needle upwards from below, through the firstdisengaged loop, pass it under two threads issuing from one loop,
and then bring it
back again into
the same loop between
the two
slanting threads,
drawing it out
again upwards
from below,
through the next
loop, and so on.
The new loop
must be just equal
to the old ones in
size. Make in the
same manner as
at the beginning,
two or three stitches
at the end of
the row, within
the edge of the
hole. Work back
in a similar way,
with this difference
only, that
you turn your
work round.

Piqué pattern
(fig. 375).—The
following patterns
are suitable for
making counterpanes,
petticoats,
vests and other articles
of clothing.
Select a suitablenumber of Coton à tricoter D.M.C. Cast on a number of
stitches divisible by 7, and begin by 6 rows of 5 plain stitches
and 1 purled, taken from behind.

7th row—purl from behind the 3rd of the 5 plain, and
knit 5 plain more and so on.

Stripes for counterpanes (fig. 378).—This pattern is to be
worked in stripes, of two colours; we may here take occasion
to mention that in choosing two colours, one dark and one
light, for a piece of work, the dark cotton should always be
one or two numbers finer than the light, because the dark dyes
thicken the cotton more than the light ones do. The blue, redand dark brown dyes sink into the cotton more and cause it
to swell, whereas the lighter dyes do not affect its thickness.

Hence it comes, that for the stripes, here described, we
were obliged to take No. 8 of the red cotton and No. 6 of the
green, in order that the same number of stitches should make
the same length of stripe.

Plain patent knitting, or brioche pattern (fig. 380).—This
easy and extremely elastic stitch is used for all sorts of
articles of clothing, and is worked in two rows.

Fig. 380. Plain patent knitting, or brioche pattern.

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3, with 4 extra
for the edge.

1st row—slip 1, knit 1, * over, put the needle into the
next stitch, as if to purl it,
slip the stitch from the left
needle to the right, knit 1,
repeat from *, and finish
with 2 plain.

2nd row—begin with 1
chain, knit 1, knit the slipped
stitch and the over together,
over, slip the single
stitch that remains, from
the left needle to the right.
When the knitting is round, you purl and knit the intake
alternately.

2nd row—knit all the stitches, pass the over by putting
the needle into it from right to left.

3rd row—like the second row of fig. 380. Now, it is only
the second and third row
that should alternate.

Patent knitting has a
charming effect, done in
two colours, by working
them alternately backwards
and forwards.

Plaited stitch (fig. 382).—This
kind of stitch is
worked in stripes, which,
for scarves, counterpanes, etc., are generally joined together
with stripes of plain knitting. For counterpanes, the lower
numbers of D.M.C cottons are most suitable, for smaller
articles the higher numbers. Plaited stitch is formed by crossing
the stitches, that is, by knitting the second stitch on the
left needle to begin with, and then the first stitch.

2nd row—slip the
1st, knit the 2nd and
the 3rd plain, the latter
having been formed
by the last over
on the 1st needle; 1
over, 1 intake with the stitch and the over, 1 over, 1 intake
and so on.

Turkish stitch with beads (fig. 384).—String the beads
on the thread before you begin to knit. When you only use
one kind of bead, thread a needle with your knitting cotton
and run it through the thread on which the beads are strung.

When you use several kinds, you must count and thread
them on in the required order. Beaded knitting is little in
request now, excepting for tobacco pouches and purses; for
which you should use Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 35, in any
colour, and small beads.

Fig. 384. Turkish stitch with beads.

For close beaded knitting,
plain stitch is the best.
Run the beads down singly
at each stitch. The beads
will fall on the reverse side
of the work so that in knitting
with beads, remember
that the reverse side will be
the right side.

To work fig. 384, which represents the same stitch as
fig. 383, you run
down 2 or sometimes
3 beads before
knitting each
stitch.

Knitting Patterns (figs.
385 - 393) -

Knitting pattern
with two kinds of cotton
(fig. 385).—A variety
of pretty
things, such as
open-work stockings,
shawls, curtains
etc. can be
made in this pattern,
worked with
two sizes of
thread. To give
it its full effect it
ought to be knitted with coarse needles, Nos. 10, 11, or 12.

3rd row—over,
slip 2, knit
1, pull slipped stitches over, drop the first of the 4 stitches,
knit first the stitch that follows the second double over, then
the 4 others plain, and lastly, take up the dropped stitch and
knit it plain on the right side of the work.

4th row—knit plain.

5th row—over, slip 3, over, knit 6.

6th row—knit plain, and repeat from the 1st row.

Knitting pattern (fig. 388).—This pattern may be worked
with any one of the D.M.C cottons recommended for fig. 387,
but in the case of anything that is not wearing apparel, Fil à
pointer D.M.C will be found more suitable. Cast on a number
of stitches that divides by 18.

Knitting pattern
(fig. 391).—The patterns
shown in figs.391 and 392,
are more particularly
useful
for comforters,
shawls, hoods
and the like. The
needles, which
may be either of
bone or steel
must match the
cotton in size;
steel needles are
the best for any
thing finer than
No. 16, of D.M.C
Coton à tricoter.

Fig. 391. Knitting pattern.

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3.

1st row—over, slip 1 stitch on to the right needle, knit
the 2 next stitches, and draw the first stitch over them.

2nd row and 4th row—knit plain.

3rd row—like the first, but note, that the stitch that was
the third in the first row, will be the first here.

Repeat from the beginning.

Knitting pattern (fig. 392).—Cast on a number of stitches
that divides by 3.

Fig. 392. Knitting pattern.

1st row—over,
knit the 2 first together,
draw the
3rd stitch through
the stitch formed
by the intake and
knit it off plain,
then knit the
stitch that was
pulled over it.

2nd and 4th
row—knit plain.

3rd row—like
the first; the third
stitch here is the
same that was
drawn through
the third stitch in
the first row.

Knitting pattern
(fig. 393).—Cast
on a number
of stitches that
divides by 14.

Repeat from the beginning but in the reverse order, that is,
purling the knitted stitches and knitting the purled.

Knitted Lace (figs.
394-399)

Knitted lace (fig. 394).—Knitted lace looks best, made
of a smooth, silky thread which shows up the pattern better
than any other material. As a knitted edging makes a very
pretty finish to almost any kind of knitted article, we give a
selection of some of the easiest and most effective patterns that
we consider suitable for the purpose.