Winterizing Your Above Ground Backflow Preventer

This part of Texas has mild winters, but we do get freezes. You need to protect your above ground backflow preventer when the temperature drops below 32°F so that trapped water doesn’t freeze, expand, and damage the device.

The Importance of a Backflow Preventer

The Texas Commission on Environmental Quality (TCEQ) Code Rule 344.50 states, “Any irrigation system that is connected to a public or private potable water supply must be connected through a commission-approved backflow prevention method”. The rule also lists the different types of backflow preventers that are permitted under certain conditions.

All irrigation system backflow preventers have the same purpose: to keep water flowing in one direction and to prevent contaminated water in the irrigation system from reversing and entering your family’s potable (suitable for drinking) water supply and the city’s water supply.

Irrigation water is a contaminant (creates a health hazard) and not just a pollutant (objectionable in odor or color). Toxic chemicals (fertilizers, pesticides, etc.) and animal waste can flow back up your irrigation pipes and into your drinking water if not prevented. The valves that turn your irrigation system on and off are not adequate to stop a backflow. They can be open when the backflow occurs (your sprinkler system is on), or they can break or leak, which is why a backflow preventer is vital to protect you. Many of the automatic valves, such as the electric solenoid valves, don’t stop backflow even when fully closed and “off”. They are directional in design, and when a backflow occurs, they will open slightly.

How do backflows occur? Normally, the water pressure in the home’s water supply keeps the irrigation water from going backwards. However, if the pressure drops suddenly, this could cause a negative pressure in the home’s main supply. Negative pressure creates a siphoning effect, causing the water to flow backwards. Although such events are rare, water can be sucked out of sprinkler lines into the main water supply, and from there into household plumbing fixtures, such as bathtubs, sinks, showers, tubs, toilets, and faucets. This can happen when your water company shuts off the water for repairs, or installs a new pipe. Fire fighters pumping water out of fire hydrants can cause water pressure in nearby areas to drop, creating a backflow in those areas.

Winterizing an RPZ (Reduced Pressure Zone) Backflow Preventer

1. Shut off the isolation valve. This valve is usually found in the ground inside a green colored valve box, either close to the backflow device or the water meter. The isolation valve needs to be“freeze proof” — eitherbelow the frost line, or wrapped with insulation.

2. If you have an automatic controller, turn it to the “off” or “rain” mode position, shutting off signals to the valves so they don’t come on. The controller will continue to keep time, and your programming won’t be lost. It’s a wise precaution to shut off the power to the controller if a pump is wired to it. The pump could get damaged if, by a remote chance, the controller started it when the system was shut off. When you start up the system again, you’ll have to reprogram the time, and possibly your settings. Mechanical controllers use more electricity than the automatic ones, so turn off their power to save electricity. You have no settings to lose in this case.

3. Remove the dust caps from the four test cocks on the RPZ.

4. Take a small flat-head screwdriver and turn the screw in the center of each test cock to a 45 degree angle, opening up the test port. Water may shoot out with some pressure, and drip for a short time. Leave the screws at 45 degrees, which is the halfway off position. Any water left in the device should evaporate, so there isn’t any left inside to freeze and cause damage.

5. Next, turn shutoff #1 and shutoff #2 handles to a 45 degree angle or the halfway off position. This prevents water from being trapped in the shutoffs and causing freezing damage to them (never leave the shutoff handles in the fully open or closed position when freeze protecting your device).

6. Loosen bolts on the relief valve cover until the water drains.

7. Insulate the RPZ by wrapping the device in foam pipe wrap, followed by a heavy rubber tape to protect the insulation. Then cover the backflow device with an insulation bag.

8. If you wish to run your system once the freeze is over, remove the insulation bag, and open the isolation valve. Water will shoot out of the device test ports, allowing any air or debris to escape. Next, close the test cocks with a screwdriver (screw slots vertical). This will stop water spraying out of the backflow preventer. Turn the #1 and #2 shutoff valve handles to the fully open position. Tighten the bolts on the relief cover. You can keep the insulation on all winter (except for the insulation bag when running the system). Set your controller.

To properly winterize your backflow preventer you must have an isolation valve. For new irrigation systems the Texas Commission on Environmental Quality (TCEQ) Code states, “All new irrigation systems must include an isolation valve between the water meter and the backflow prevention device”, Rule 344.62.If you have an older system and don’t have an isolation valve, leave the backflow device on, and properly insulate it for a freeze. Call us and we’ll install one for you so you can winterize your device in the future. We’d also be glad to help you with the winterizing.

Winterizing a Double Check Backflow Preventer

In central Texas most double check backflow preventers are installed underground, and are therefore insulated from freeze damage. For winterization of above ground double check devices, follow the RPZ steps (except for the relief cover — the double check backflow doesn’t have a relief valve).

Winterizing a PVB (Pressure Vacuum Backflow) Device

1. Shut off the isolation valve.

2. If you have a controller, set it to the “off” or “rain” mode position.

2. Locate the two test cocks used to test or drain the main cavity of thebackflow device. Take a small flat-head screwdriver and turn the screw in the center of each test cock one quarter of a turn (45 degree angle) to open them. Water may shoot out with some pressure, and drip for a short time.

3. Turn the #1 and #2 shutoff handles to a 45 degree angle or the halfway off position. Keep them in this position until you’re ready to start your system again.

4. Insulate the device in foam pipe wrap, and use a heavy rubber tape to protect the insulation. Cover the device with an insulation bag.

5. To run your system again, remove the insulation bag and open the isolation valve (water will shoot out of the test cocks). Close the test cocks by turning the screw in the center to the closed (screw slot vertical) position. This will stop the water from spraying out of the backflow device. Turn the #1 and #2 shutoff handles to the full open position (handles in line with the flow of the pipe). You can keep the insulation on all winter (except for the insulation bag when running the system). Set your controller.

You should use your controller to help drain the system during the winterization process.To do this, turn on the lowest elevation zone on the controller and let it run.Then turn off the isolation valve and drain the unit.When those steps are complete, turn the controller to the “off” position.

Would you like some help winterizing your system?We are the experts in irrigation and sprinkler repair, restoration, and maintenance.Call us today at (512) 534-7449.

How sprinkler pipes are connected can make a world of difference. Call the pros at South Austin Irrigation Repair for expert work.

If you are thinking about making a few changes to your irrigation system that involve connecting plastic pipes to metal ones, you’ll need to be aware of some of the issues to which such connections will give rise. Plastic and metal piping can be combined; but you have to be careful how you go about doing so.

You will make your plastic to metal linkage with threaded connections. Use a plastic male thread to connect to the metal female threads. If you do the opposite—use a plastic female threaded connector with a metal male connector—the new joint you create will either leak or break. This is because polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastics stretch far more easily than metals do. A female PVC fitting joined together with with a male metal fitting will tax the female fitting to the point where it will crack and leak.

It’s also important to know that the standard threads used on pipes and fittings are not uniform in diameter. The reason for this is that as the threads are screwed together, the male fitting gets compressed while female fitting stretches. This results in a very tight joint that won’t leak.

When creating plastic to metal threaded joints, you’ll need to use a sealer/lubricant. Doing so will help lubricate fittings making it easier to screw the mail and into the female: it will also help seal the joint and guard against leaks. Three products you can use for this purpose are Teflon pipe dope, Teflon tape or PTFE tape. If you are working on pipes associated with a sprinkler system, Teflon or PTFE tape are the two best choices because your pipes could carry pipe dope residue into the sprinklers and clog them up.

Irrigation systems need specialized care and attention because the wrong choices could cost you time and money. Whether you’re in need of installation or repair/replacement services, the dedicated professionals at South Austin Irrigation can help you maintain your irrigation unit in top condition so that watering can be one less thing you’ll have to think about.

Smart controllers can adjust irrigation operation by the season. Find out more from South Austin Irrigation Repair.If you are new to automatic irrigation systems, you may be wondering how controllers—and specifically, smart controllers—are able to determine seasonal increases or decreases in watering times. There are actually several ways in which different controllers make these “judgments.” And where some controllers use just one method, others use a combination of several different methods.

Analyzing the historical and weather use data is one common way a smart controller figures out how much water a particular area requires. While this method doesn’t tell the whole story and is sometimes imperfect, it still works well in most cases and results in significant water savings for users. During times that fall out of the historical norm—for example, the current drought—you need to manually override the automatic settings with the appropriate information.

Another way controllers make their watering determinations is through water and/or weather data they obtain via a remote provider. A smart controller will use an Internet, telephone or radio connection to gather data from a remote provider or, in some cases, a local weather station. The accuracy of the system is dependent upon the actual source of information. You would therefore be wise to ask the provider where the controller is picking up its data.

Some controllers come with their own installable weather stations. This allows them to use actual, real time data to decide how much water and area needs. This method is highly dependent on the quality of the weather station. If it’s good, then you’re in luck; if it isn’t, you could be in a bit of trouble.

Other smart controllers will use moisture sensors to tell them how much moisture is present in the soil. They then use that information to determine irrigation times. While this system can be very accurate, moisture sensors are not known for their reliability over time. You will also have to spend time calibrating and adjusting the sensors when you first get them.

South Austin Irrigation can help you determine the best method to control your landscaping needs. We can also help with controller set-up, maintenance and repair. Don’t leave your watering needs to chance—or to unfamiliar technology: call us for an assessment today.

Every year, poor irrigation scheduling leads to a huge loss of plant materials on new landscape projects. Inattention to this crucial element of landscape maintenance can lead to a host of problems including turf grass and landscape shrub diseases.

If your system is not hooked into a smart controller, successful irrigation scheduling requires two basic things: observation and dedication. You can begin by looking carefully at the plants that need to be watered. Some plants can grow directly in water; others, especially those drought-tolerant ones now favored in drought-stricken Texas, will die if their roots are wet for longer than a day.

The first thing to remember when dealing with drought-tolerant plants is to never water when the soil is still wet. Wilting is often a sign that a drought tolerant plant has had too much water. It can also mean that the plant has been stricken by disease or insect damage. On hot afternoons, some drought-intolerant plants will fold their leaves to conserve water. So just because a plant looks wilted, don’t assume that is because it needs water.

When you do water, be sure to saturate the soil around the plant. The primary feeder roots for are located in the top six or so inches of soil, particularly if the plant is in a pot. The feeder roots are very small, unlike the plants lower roots, which exist to support the plant, although they, too, can absorb water if necessary.

If you use sprinklers as your primary method of irrigation, water will likely begin to collect in a low spot or gutter before the soil has been watered to a depth of six inches. When this starts to happen, turn off the sprinklers, wait for an hour for the water to soak in, then turn the sprinklers on again until more runoff occurs. Continue doing this until you are satisfied with the soil has been properly saturated.

Landscape irrigation scheduling is especially important in times of drought. With less water to go around, you have to make the most of every drop you get.

Call South Austin Irrigation for maintenance or repairs. Call us at (512) 534-7449.

Freezes like this are pretty rare around Austin, but knowing how to winterize your sprinkler system is still a smart idea.Texas is considered a “good weather state” where snow is unusual and freezes quickly melt in the morning. Nevertheless, now that winter for many areas has arrived (or is just around the corner), it’s still very important that you get your irrigation system ready for the cold months ahead.

The first thing to do is to freeze-proof the main shutoff valve for your irrigation system. Temporarily shut off the water supply then make sure that the valve itself is below the frost line, inside a heated room, or wrapped in appropriate insulation. If you don’t have a main shutoff valve for your irrigation system, then you’ll have to install one.

If you have an automatic system, then you will also need to temporarily shut off the controller (also known as the timer). Most controllers have what’s called a rain mode which shuts off all signals to the valves. An alternative to making use of the rain mode is to switch off all power to the controller. Be aware, however that if you do this, you’ll need to reprogram the controller when warm weather returns.

Gear-drive rotor sprinklers that are installed above ground need to have any water remaining in them drained out. If you don’t do this, they may freeze and rupture. If the water doesn’t drain out by itself, you’ll need to install a drain valve somewhere on the pipe that supplies the sprinkler so you can remove the water.

Also take stock of all pipes that are located above the ground, as these, too must also be insulated to protect against costly breakages. Insulating pipework is not as difficult as it sounds: you can purchase self-sticking foam insulating tape to wrap around the pipe or you can use foam insulating tubes. Be sure to also insulate above ground backflow preventers and valves if you don’t remove and store them.

Too much to do and not enough time? South Austin Irrigation can help you make the necessary adjustments now and assist with the all-important pre-season maintenance that you’ll also need to do in the spring. Give us a call: we’re there for you! Call (512) 534-7449.

Excellent, quality work. Matt, the owner, is reliable and explain all charges clearly, with options for how to repair.

Emanuel Saba

21:22 02 Mar 17

I've worked with Matt on a few different occasions and every time he has been extremely professional, timely and most importantly does it right. He really knows the business. His work lasts and is done right. Highly recommend for anyone needing any type of irrigation repair, adding lines, fixing leaks, etc...he does it all!read more

David T

03:17 16 Oct 16

Matt with South Austin Irrigation has been my go-to irrigation company for many changes we've made to our yard over the last 4 years. We've done extensive rock work throughout the front and back yards (which required major irrigation changes); converted an entire zone of our irrigation system to a low-pressure drip irrigation system for my 1000 sq ft "in-ground" garden, plus a recent drainage project to top it off.
My experiences with South Austin Irrigation have always been good - Matt is professional and punctual, and has always known what to do to solve the issues I've thrown at him. I was using other companies before I found him, so I can say that his rates are very competitive as well.
Matt is a good communicator and doesn't mind taking time to explain the reasons for doing something one way or another, and then letting you make an informed decision about how you want to handle it. Of course, if you'd rather just stay out of it and let him make the decisions (I'm too curious for that!), he's more than capable of doing that as well.read more

Raymond Loren Naylor

14:56 02 Jan 12

Knowledgeable service technician. Work performed a quickly and efficiently. Pleased with ovaerall experience. Even helped understand importance of wartering timing.read more