PEORIA HEIGHTS — I must stress that I have absolutely nothing against the “sandwich artists” who ply their trade on the other side of Sciota Avenue along northbound Prospect Road. But if your default is to get lunch from them rather than across the street, you’re missing out.

For years I’ve made that misstep — or gotten other quick drive-thru fare at an arch-themed franchise down the road — when in search of a speedy lunch, always dismissing the fact that there seemed to be a regular and devoted crowd stopping in at the Silver Dollar Tavern, 4322 N. Prospect Road.

Finally, I rectified that error earlier this month and have been back several times since already to eat in or to carry out some amazing fare — including one of the best burgers I’ve had the fortune to eat.

The eating arrangements themselves are rather spare; this is as much as anything, a watering hole. But there’s ample room at the bar to eat, as well as a dining area off to the side and a handful of tables outdoors in the beer garden. There are also some of the now-ubiquitous video gambling machines right by the door, letting out their periodic merry noises. And, of course, there are chatty patrons, clear regulars, which is always a nice thing to see.

But it doesn’t take long to get your order and begin a leisurely meal. Service is quick and attentive, but certainly not hovering, either.

On a recent lunch, my guest got a grilled chicken breast sandwich ($6.25, with fries — natural cut — for $1 extra) that came well seasoned but still incredibly moist and peeping out the sides of the bun. Together with the mustard, mayo, onions, lettuce and juicy slices of tomato it made an excellent sandwich. What’s worth noting here, and with my meal as well, is the spectacular job they do toasting the buns for sandwiches. Just the right level of crunch around the edges, and firm enough to hold up the hefty offerings.

That was especially necessary for my half-pound burger ($5.75), which dwarfed the bun with its hand-pattied goodness. Grilled nicely, still juicy and flavorful, it hardly needed anything to accompany it, but I made perhaps the best decision of the week when I added two slices of bacon to the burger for an extra $2. This is real bacon — not wimpy, thin and limp, fat-with-a-couple-atoms-of-meat offering. The bacon here is just on the edge of crisp, allowing you to bite into it and chew, thick enough that you can almost hear a faint squeal from the pig — exactly what bacon ought to be.

The Silver Dollar also does a nice trade for breakfast — and brunch on the weekends — with speedy service and a commendable attention to detail. They offer pancakes, French toast, biscuits and gravy and a number of egg-meat-potato combinations. My two-egg breakfast with hash browns, bacon and rye toast ($6.25) recently is hard to improve on. The over-easy eggs were nicely done and smoothly yolky. The bacon — three pieces — was still thick, and both the hash browns and toast were done to a pleasant crispness. Nothing was wallowing in grease, and the toast wasn’t even over-buttered. Any one of those things would go a long way toward ensuring my loyalty. More than one? Let’s just call the result a newfound affection.

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Quick Guide: Silver Dollar Tavern

4322 N. Prospect Road, Peoria Heights

(309) 685-9413

Hours: 7 a.m. to 1 a.m. daily. Breakfast served 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. weekdays and until 2 p.m. on weekends; lunch served 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily. No dinner service available.