I own a TC4 RTR since 2007 slowly buying spares good to make it last a
long time. I think this car is great and is better than a stock TA05, TB03,
MR4TC, etc. Camber and droop guages plus tools are included and is
well equipped for its price-- oil shocks, cvd universals, chrome wheels,
rubber sealed bearings. It's responsive and stable running on 10.5 BL.
My only complain is the rear diff outdrives, it wears out fast but will
be upgrading to metal ones. I just love the engineering, the composite
plastics and how it is put together. I hope AE doesnt stop making and
designing shaft drive cars even if it's made from composite plastics.

I've had a few instances where a rear hub is sloppy on the hinge-pin, or a steering knuckle is too tight on the sleeves, but a little bit of sanding/smoothing and some well-placed shims take care of it. Same for the steering assembly, it just needs a few "tweaks" and it works flawlessly, and is pretty durable, too.

I own a TC4 RTR since 2007 slowly buying spares good to make it last a
long time. I think this car is great and is better than a stock TA05, TB03,
MR4TC, etc. Camber and droop guages plus tools are included and is
well equipped for its price-- oil shocks, cvd universals, chrome wheels,
rubber sealed bearings. It's responsive and stable running on 10.5 BL.
My only complain is the rear diff outdrives, it wears out fast but will
be upgrading to metal ones. I just love the engineering, the composite
plastics and how it is put together. I hope AE doesnt stop making and
designing shaft drive cars even if it's made from composite plastics.

+1 I like my TA05 IFS-R, but I do so much better with my TC4. And I rarely, if ever, break anything.

Hey,
Im currently running a Factory Team TC4 and i was wondering what a good FDR would be. Im running 13.5 brushless with lipo and the motor is a trinity...also im running rubber tires. Right now my FDR is 4.3 and the car feels a tad bit slow. I am running an 87 spur and 50 pinion. If anyone has any suggestions or input it would be greatly appreciated... thanks

Possibly try between 5.0 and 4.5, you should become quicker out of the corners making the car faster.
I think 10.5 at my local track are usually geared between 5.5 and 5.0 and 17.5 between 3.8 and 3.5, how ever this is on a track where Large Scale is raced at.

I am using a TC4 Team for speed racing, it has worked pretty good so far, at least in a straight line as it is pretty bullet proof and it is really pretty stock in the grand scheme of things.

I did the ISC Event on the velodrome at Encino and could never get it to handle, basically it just kinda had an erratic mind of its own that I could never source out and fix (even with Nic Case's help). We tried every setup under the sun, different servos, and all kinds of other stuff. Combine that with I wasn't able to drive through the problems and I did a lot of crashing.

The car took it like a champ though and other than breaking some little parts here and there that I had spares for anyway. I think the car has a lot of potential but I need to learn way more and find a velodrome to practice on When the straight line events come around I expect a completely different result and hopefully will be in the running.

The link to the project blog is in my signature if anyone is interested in overpowered TC4's.

I have a team TC4 and my son has an RTR and the only part that has been broke (under normal running) was one of the front A-arms. I did smash mine into a curb at around 70-80mph and broke a carbon fiber chassis an bent the center drive shaft, and striped the spur but that was it. It is a tough car. After enough running you may want to replace parts just to get rid of slop in steering and suspension.

What spare parts should I buy? What are the most commonly broken parts?

After 2 years of street racing on my composite TC4 I just replaced
2 front lower A-arms, 4 composite diffs at the rear, body posts, spur
and pinion gears, some ballcups and dust covers.

For RTRs that wander left or right, check out you camber mounts
just above the drive cups. If you see some wear, just file the mounts
so that it doesnt hit your drive cups. Try to loosen the front diff if it
if it is too tight and use silver (softer) springs at the rear. Works great
for me.

I've only broken a front wishbone and wheel hub, but that was at a track that is well known for breaking cars. However at my local track it is very difficult to break a car which is always good.
But I would stock up on wishbones and wheel hubs if you are in a situation where you are likely to break parts.

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