Only Watch 2017 – Hot novelties in exotic and unusual metals

Coming November 11th to Christies in Geneva, this year’s Only Watch charity auction is set to be the most talked about fall auction.

By Josh Shanks

Managing Editor US

As you may have seen on social media, Only Watch has returned in a big way. The biennial charity auction, taking place November 11th at Christies in Geneva is shaping up to be a record-breaking auction, and it’s all for a good cause.

Today, we’re going to focus on two of my favorites from the auction. The Tudor Black Bay One, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, both unique pieces made for Only Watch.

TUDOR Heritage Black Bay Bronze One for Only Watch 2017

Heritage Black Bay Bronze One

2015’s Only Watch auction saw Tudor releasing their first unique piece. The “Black Bay One” which ended up being the surprise of the auction, and brought in 375,000 CHF. This year is no different, Tudor has released a left-handed version of their popular Black Bay Bronze. The piece is encased in Tudor’s aluminum bronze alloy and embellished with a khaki green dial, bezel, and crown tube.

TUDOR Heritage Black Bay Bronze One for Only Watch 2017

What I like about this piece is that it’s not an entirely new creation, but a subtle twist on an existing reference. As you know, sub-references drive collectors of Tudor and Rolex crazy, and this piece is sure to be no exception. On top of that, the winning bidder gets an all-expense paid trip to Tudor’s manufacture in Switzerland.

TUDOR Heritage Black Bay Bronze One for Only Watch 2017

Christies has listed the estimate at CHF 4,500 – 5,500 and I suspect it’ll go multiple times that.

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Only Watch

Returning to Only Watch after a long absence, Audemars Piguet entry doesn’t disappoint. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in ceramic was arguably the most talked about watch of SIHH 2017. Continuing this momentum, the Le Brassus based brand has created a stunning, almost pearlescent blue/purple dial that needs to be seen to be appreciated. AP calls it a “Skylight” dial.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar for Only Watch 2017

Released initially as a Limited-Edition series of 100 pieces, the ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar quickly sold out across the globe. The pieces ended up going to some of the brand’s biggest collectors, including, as rumor has it, rappers Jay Z and Pras.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar for Only Watch 2017

For those that missed out, now’s your chance to take home a unique piece. Hammer estimates are CHF 80,000 – 120,000. Considering the existing limited edition is sold out and we’ve seen secondary valuations going for well above retail, I would imagine this piece is going to be one of the most sought after Only Watch pieces.

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By Marco Gabella

Co-Founder - Executive Publisher

The perpetual calendar, in my view, is by far the most practical for daily use. And this one, made in black ceramic, hits a home run. The classic Royal Oak codes are transcended here thanks to the use of this unscratchable material, which gives it some kind of wildness.