Description

This classic testpiece was undoubtedly the first '5.13' in Australia, and likely the first south of the equator. When first climbed in 1981, Cobwebs was one of the hardest routes in the world, though unfortunately the route's difficulty was not fully appreciated at the time. Apparently this route was originally graded 26, while Yesterday (done in 1979, and now considered 26) was given the audacious grade of 28!

The route ascends a flared, snaking crack up a slightly overhanging wall. Begin with off-balance side-pulling/liebacking to the first small roof where an akward left-wards traverse leads to a marginal stance and a flared hand jam. Continue over the rooflet along a splitter crack to a long undercling reach, to technical face moves trending right just below the point where the crack angles left. Clip a dubious fixed pin here and crux left with ultra strenuous underclings and gastons. Follow the again-vertical crack more easily to the the top. It is very easy to scramble to the top of this route (as for the base of Pilot Error) to rig a TR, which is by far the most common practice. The Mentz/Tempest guidebook (p.26) hints that the FFA 'may' have been done with TR rehearsal, and perhaps pre-placed gear.

If you're looking for an Oz testpiece, this route provides plenty of difficulty and cool temps away from the throngs you might find loitering around, say India or Slopin Sleazin.

Location

The route is located in the narrow, dank, Cobwebs Gully that is formed by the main cliff and the back side of Pilot Error cliff. Cobwebs is the second route from the right.

Protection

Many nuts and RPs. The crack takes some cams, but be warned, I pulled a .75 Camalot and landed on my belayer, held by a now-mangled #1 TCU. This crack takes nuts better than cams.