What a difference a year makes. Chef-owner Anita Jaisinghani has re-energized her fine-dining flagship with the verve and street-food smarts that make her casual Pondicheri so much fun. And boom: Indika's back as a national standard-bearer for contemporary Indian cuisine. The food's better than it has ever been, from Duck Rangoon in Burmese-inspired red curry noodles to a superb pork belly chaat livened with tamarind chutney and tart mango powder (amchur). The vaulting room, softened by bright textiles and dark-wood antiques, remains as personal as the service — and the thoughtful wine and cocktail lists.