Steve and Anne Sierigk of Hawk Meadow Farm where they grow mushrooms on four foot logs in a mostly shaded section of the Schuyler county property between Burdett and Trumansburg. (Photo: SIMON WHEELER / Staff Photo)

An experimental log of Bitternut Hickory covered in about a pound of Shiitake mushrooms on Steve Sierigk's Hawk Meadow Farm in Schuyler County about halfway between Trumansburg and Burdett. (Photo: SIMON WHEELER / Staff Photo)

Mycelium spores that will produce Shiitake mushrooms show at the end of a log after having propagated throughout the log. One inch holes are drilled in the log and then sawdust infused with mycelium are put in and the holes are covered with wax to prevent them drying out. Each log has a metal label so production can be tracked over its four-year lifespan. (Photo: SIMON WHEELER / Staff Photo)

Steve Sierigk started growing Shiitake mushrooms 10 years ago at his Hawk Meadow Farm near Trumansburg.

His interest in fungus farming began with a 2010 study by Cornell University Cooperative Extension and University of Vermont Extension's Center for Sustainable Agriculture. Mushroom growing was one of dozens of strategies developed by those universities for farms to be profitable while using sustainable agricultural practices.

Today, Sierigk grows hundreds of pounds of the tasty morsels annually on 1,000 three-foot oak logs in the woods near a shady creek.

Sierigk and other local growers sell most their produce to nearby restaurants and at farmers' markets. But, that's starting to change as the mushroom market grows. Southern Tier farmers and woodlot owners are being encouraged to develop mushroom operations to broaden the region's agriculture and earn a few thousands dollars for their trouble.

"You're not going to get rich, but it's not just a hobby, or it doesn't have to be," said Ken Mudge, Associate Professor at Cornell's School of Integrative Plant Science Horticulture.

The Cornell-UVM study found that growing mushrooms outdoors during a four-month period can be profitable to farmers with at least 500 logs. With prices as high as $16 per pound in some parts of the Northeast, a 500-log operation could earn $11,190 in gross income. Locally, prices hover about $10 per pound.

"Really, if you have access to the woods, it's not that hard to get started," said Sierigk.

Coupling the shiitake's unique meaty flavor, a growing interest in locally produced food and the mushroom's reported health benefits, local mushroom growers may be on to something good.

Sprouting shiitakes

Once best known as rubbery bits in cream canned soups, mushrooms have become a gourmet item.

While White Button, Portobello and Cremini mushrooms are the better-known varieties found in many supermarkets, there are an estimated 400 "good-eating" varieties with aficionados as attuned to their differences as a wine taster's palate for subtle peach. Delivering those less familiar and locally grown varieties to savvy mushroom consumers is where the dollars are for regional mushroom growers.

The U.S. agriculture department's National Agriculture Statistics Service reports the number of Shiitake growers with at least 200 logs in production has grown from 142 producing 7.7 million pounds from 2003 to 2004 to 179 producing 8.6 million pounds from 2012 to 2013.

At Wellspring Forest Farm in Schuyler County, Steve Gabriel and Liz Falk began raising mushrooms as part of an array of farm products. They harvest 30 to 60 pounds of mushrooms each week. Taking into account what it would cost to hire labor for harvesting, Gabriel estimates his 1,000-log farm nets around $4,000-$6,000 annually.

Like many small farmers, Gabriel and Sierigk rely on other sources for income. In addition to working for Cornell Cooperative Extension, Gabriel is an author, and co-author with Mudge, of books on mushrooms and forest-based crops. Sierigk also runs a graphics business, Acorn Designs, and sells maple syrup.

Mushroom cultivation is tailor-made for scores of farmers in the Southern Tier with woodlots on their land, according to Schuyler County Cooperative Regional Forester Brett Chedzoy.

"A lot of farmers have woods they don't do much with," he said. "They may cut down some for firewood, or hunt deer, but other than that, not much else. This would be a way for farmers to make some money in the off-season."

But growing Shiitake isn't as easy as falling off a log, growers warn.

"Let's just say it's low on fossil fuel, high labor," Sierigk said.

The outdoor method of growing shiitakes involves cutting down a few trees in the winter and inoculating the 38-inch logs with Shiitake "spawn." The logs remain dormant for several weeks, followed by a 24-hour icy soak in the creek.

Once inoculated, each log yields between 0.5 and one pound annually for up to four years. Growers develop a rotating "crop," adding roughly 200 logs each year to the farm, and allowing older logs to grow dormant.

Harvesting starts in late May or early June and lasts until mid-September.

"Growing mushrooms is very nature based experience," Sierigk said. "I tried back in the 1980s to become an organic farmer, but it was a little before its time, I guess."

Indoor farms

Other local growers extend the growing season by growing shiitakes in climate-controlled indoor facilities.

Mushroom growers David Wanagel and Rick Cacciotti have full-time jobs and work their Ithaca-based Cayuga Mushroom Farm in their off-hours.

Intrigued by a conference held on the West Coast by ecologist Paul Stamets on the health benefits of the mushrooms, the men set up a private lab and indoor, climate-controlled incubator in Wanagel's home. The shiitakes are grown on 600 six-pound blocks of sawdust and produce year-round. Each block yields about 1.25 pounds annually.

Now recommended for further study by the American Cancer Society for their potential in slowing tumor growth, shiitakes have also been touted for their immune system and cardiovascular support.

Cayuga Farms also grows lion's mane, reishi and turkey tail mushrooms, and studies them for use as health extracts.

Wanagel hopes their venture pays off — for those who would benefit from mushrooms' health benefits, and those who enjoy shiitake's meaty flavor or the seafood flavor of lion's mane's mushroom that has a mop-like appearance.

And for the indoor farm's future bottom line…

"It's been a labor of love, so far," he said. "How long it can be that, is another question."

There is support for those interested in the field.

The Cornell-UVM study led to a growers guide and active chat group with as many as 500 growers sharing their techniques, Sierigk said.

Agencies like The Groundswell Center for Local Food & Farming near Ithaca are tailor-made for those who want to explore agribusinesses, Director Joanna Green said.

"Like any farm enterprise it takes a lot of skills sets," she said. "I like to think we set a realistic picture. It's a lot harder than it looks."

Mudge said the market is wide open now, and likely to develop more in the future.

"It'll take all anyone can handle," he said. "Right now, we're holding workshops for 30, and turning away 60 more."

Mushrooming in the Tier

Tours:

• A number of local mushroom growers' farms are part of the Finger Lakes Permaculture Site Tour slated for 10 a.m.- 4 p.m. Sept. 6. For more information and to register, go to http://fingerlakespermaculture.org.

• A tour of an area noted for wild mushrooms is planned for 10 a.m. Sept. 20 by the Finger Lakes Land Trust Talks & Treks series. The tour, led by Cornell University mycologist Kathie Hodge will take place at the Ellis Hollow Nature Preserve. For more information, go to http://fllt.org/events or call (607) 275-9487.

• The Finger Lakes Permaculture Institute also hosts two events dedicated to mushroom farming including Camp Mushroom, annual two-day spring event for farmers, woodlot owners, and hobby growers who want to cultivate their own Shiitake, oyster, lions mane, and stropharia mushrooms and a 15-day course on Permaculture including the cultivation of mushrooms. For more information, go to http://fingerlakespermaculture.org

Classes:

• Cooperative extensions in Chemung, Broome, Steuben, Schuyler and Tompkins counties have offered several classes on mushroom growing this year. For information on upcoming classes at your county's extensions go to http://www.cce.cornell.edu