No need to replace ancient furnace

by ken moon

Published: December 8, 2013;Last modified: December 8, 2013 05:00AM

Q: I have a 33-year-old furnace. When is it time to replace it? — Don

A: If you have it checked every year, and your system gets a clean bill of health, you should be OK. Many furnaces have lasted a lot longer than yours, probably because manufacturers used heavy steel with welded joints in the good old days.

But there’s another reason to replace a furnace besides safety. Yours is probably less than 50-percent efficient, whereas today’s units are required to be about 80 percent. That means that you could save $200 to $300 each heating season, making an investment in a new furnace more attractive than ever. In fact, as fossil fuel prices continue their long-term, inexorable climb, the payback for your new furnace will get shorter and shorter.

You may be urged to invest in a 90-percent efficient (or even higher) furnace. These high-efficiency models are too expensive for my taste, plus they can be more of a maintenance headache than a basic 80-percent furnace. One option to consider, though, is a two-stage gas valve. It runs at a low BTU setting during moderate weather, but can kick up to the high side during a cold snap. It’s not a very costly option, but it can save you real energy dollars over our long, mostly temperate winters.

Q: What do you think of the various products you flush down to help speed up or energize your septic system? — Bob

A: Most professional septic system service companies recommend against them. These products contain enzymes and bacteria that are supposed to accelerate the digestion process in the tank. Trouble is, they can overdo it by breaking up material too quickly and into such fine particles that the leach field can be jeopardized.

In some extreme cases, the field can partially plug up or become less efficient disbursing the liquid output of the septic system. Normal use of the system will create and sustain just enough bacteria to ensure proper digestion of the household sewage.

It’s vital to pump the layer of sludge out of the bottom of the tank every three or four years or so, depending on the size of your family. Also, avoid flushing grease and harsh chemicals into the drains. There are detergents, toilet tissue and household cleaners that are specifically designed and marketed to go easy on the system.

Q: Our pipes vibrate when we use them. Sometimes it quits, and sometimes it goes on a long time. How can we get some relief? — Jeff

A: You’ll have to track down which part of the plumbing is the culprit. Try to isolate it to a particular faucet or toilet. Use the old mechanic’s trick of holding the blunt end of a screwdriver against your ear and touching each fixture or valve until you isolate it. Then, replace, rebuild or repair the offending part. That usually means a new washer or stem, or, in the case of single-handle faucet valves, buying and installing a new parts kit.

If the vibration occurs no matter which fixture you use, you’ll need to go to the utility room. Check out the pipes and valves as I discussed above, starting where the water service comes in from the street and moving toward the water heater. You’ll probably discover that one of the control valves is acting up. It, too, can be repaired.

Finally, make sure the water pressure in your house is 50 to 60 pounds per square inch. Excessive pressure or a bad pressure regulator can cause similar symptoms.

Ken Moon is a former homebuilder who lives in Colorado Springs. He can be reached at ken@kenmoon.com.