PROBABILISTIC CALCULATION MODEL OF DIRECTIONAL RANDOM WAVES

Wi-Gwang Pae, Hajime Mase, Tetsuo Sakai

Abstract

A probabilistic calculation model is developed, for the simplicity of inclusion of wave breaking and energy dissipation, to predict the transformation of directionally-spreading random waves by using parabolic refraction-diffraction equations. The numerical predictions are compared with the experimental observations of random wave transformation over an elliptic shoal by Vincent and Briggs (1989); the predictions agree well with the observations under the non-breaking condition, however, the agreement is poor under the wave breaking condition.