Travel: Sea & shore: Traveling Maine’s Lobster Coast

Marci and Melanie DeWolf More Content Now

Monday

Aug 19, 2019 at 3:42 PM

Gossamer threads of light floated to the deck of the Schooner Surprise off the Maine coast before a sudden change in the wind shadowed the scene. The waves struck a delicate balance between calm and rough, reflecting the many moods of the sea. Passengers on the 57-foot vessel were having fun.

“When you’re out there on the water, the world seems like the perfect place,” one senior remarked.

The two-hour sail operates from May through October from the town of Camden’s boat landing, offering close-up views of lighthouses, eagles, seals and osprey. Captain and crew share local history and allow passengers to raise and lower the sails.

The Surprise, built in 1918, is on the National Register of Historic Places.

PortlandMaine’s coastal road trip begins in Portland, the largest city in the state, on the southeast peninsula. In the past five years Portland has developed a reputation as a foodies’ paradise. It was named Bon Appetit Magazine’s 2018 Restaurant City of the Year. Inventive restaurants, excellent cuisine and creative chefs point to a growing, diverse community.

Still, the city has not lost its down-home charm, with restaurants that stand the test of time.

The Portland Lobster Company is a casual seafood shack with outdoor seating and live music. Prices are reasonable: The lobster roll costs $17.99 and it’s $16 for the Maine shrimp salad. The Holy Donut is a friendly coffee house on Middle Street featuring potato doughnuts made in-house in 20 flavors, such as Maine blueberry and lemon.

For lodging, the elegant Portland Harbor Hotel in the Old Port District is a AAA Four Diamond-rated hotel. Its 101 rooms are defined by a luxury feel accented by nautical, seaworthy touches in keeping with the Maine theme. Gourmet seafood dishes characterize its high-end BlueFin restaurant.

The Inn at Diamond Cove is an idyllic retreat a 20-minute ferry ride from Portland. This is truly a do-nothing getaway island, a place to unplug in the heart of Casco Bay. The 44-unit inn has access to beaches, picnic areas and overlooks. It has a health club, outdoor pool, tennis courts and a children’s playground. Cars are not allowed on the island.

The Diamond’s Edge restaurant has seating inside, on the deck or on the lawn in front of the island’s marina.

The Portland City and Lighthouse Discovery Tour is a visitor favorite. The 1.5-hour trolley tour is fully narrated and highlighted by a 30 minute stop to see the iconic Portland Head Light, Maine’s oldest lighthouse, and breathtaking views of the sea.

MidcoastFrom Portland, the coastal drive via Route 1 takes less than an hour to the midcoast region, which is full of islands, coves, estuaries and beaches perfect for exploring wildlife. Whaling tours are also popular here. Boothbay Harbor, known for its deepwater port and boat building history, is known as the Boating Capital of New England.

The Ocean Gate Resort is a 64-room waterfront resort on Southport Island, with cottages directly on the inlet. This is a good home base less than l0 minutes from downtown Boothbay Harbor. Kayaking, canoeing and hiking trails are nearby.

Camden-RocklandDriving further north, the Camden-Rockland region is the heart of the Maine coast. On warm summer evenings, picnic tables at the many lobster shacks lining the harbors are filled with people cracking shells and dipping steamers in melted butter. This festive ritual has been the hallmark of the Maine dining scene for more than l00 years.

Farmers markets overflow with the local bounty. A vibrant craft beverage scene has taken hold, along with a half dozen local wineries including Cellardoor in Lincolnville, which offers tours and tastings.

The Camden-Rockland area is Maine’s cultural hub and premiere destination for the visual arts. The esteemed Farnsworth Art Museum celebrates Maine’s role in American art, with 15,000 works in its collections. The adjacent Wyeth Center features the works of the Wyeth family. It has a rich diversity of art focusing on the state’s maritime heritage and natural beauty.

The nearby Inn at Ocean’s Edge on Penobscot Bay is an expansive luxury resort with a stairway leading to the water and infinity edge pool. It offers a breakfast, but no dinner. There are rooms in the main inn and units hillside.

The Maine coast, accessible and affordable, reflects the resilience and rugged nature of the Yankee spirit. For more information go to visitmaine.com or call 888-624-6345.

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