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Depends on how urgent your need is. After swapping out the rear shock I'm going to change out my left switch as the winker blade has side to side play in it, My plan is to take the as new one from Capo #1 and replace with new and pass the takeoff to Capo #2. That frees up a functional left switch although I'm not certain why the freeplay exists, it could be due for replacement anyway. So about a week or so at my speed.

Have you verified it is the switch and not some other part of the wiring?

Depends on how urgent your need is. After swapping out the rear shock I'm going to change out my left switch as the winker blade has side to side play in it, My plan is to take the as new one from Capo #1 and replace with new and pass the takeoff to Capo #2. That frees up a functional left switch although I'm not certain why the freeplay exists, it could be due for replacement anyway. So about a week or so at my speed.

Have you verified it is the switch and not some other part of the wiring?

There are a few on the E-Bay new and used if you need it right away.

Thanks C-ETV. Yeah, it's definitely the switch. The "cancel" does not entirely cancel and anyone behind me must think I am drunk due to the random turn indicator flashing. Sounds like you are close to having the same problem as I as the switch has a fair amount of slop to it. I do see a couple on ebay and our benevolent sponsors have NOS available as well, but after dumping some $$ on tires about half an hour ago, I am trying to be budget conscious....

I know what you mean. From a casual look it seems a piece got wonked and that allows the blade to twist out of a flat plane side to side movement and thus it dips down at an angle.

As soon as I pull it off I'll post up pics. Some Japanese bikes have switches almost identical in dimensions but with all the necessary buttons. Maybe one way to go is to grab one and match up wiring for the connector and splice it together. Those are probably give-aways at a local shop. Just don't tell them you need it.

I caught one on ebay for ~$25. The first one lasted almost 50K miles and 15+ years in 3 states in the rain and snow and salty sea air. If I can get half that much out of this one, I'll be quite pleased.

Have you verified it is the switch and not some other part of the wiring?

Lo and behold, there was also a burnt connection in the headlight harness. The red wire with the blue stripe left quite a char mark on the connector. I'd show you the repair but no one wants to see me ham fisted soldering skills. Hopefully, that should take care of things.

Lo and behold, there was also a burnt connection in the headlight harness. The red wire with the blue stripe left quite a char mark on the connector. I'd show you the repair but no one wants to see me ham fisted soldering skills. Hopefully, that should take care of things.

That's the ground for both high and low beams. Plenty of others have had that same problem, including me. Good find.

I had the power lead to the low beams do the same thing about 5 years ago. Coincidentally, they are next to each other on the connector. Whether the first contributed to the second is up for debate but at the very least, I think we all agree that the wiring harness and connectors on these bikes, in general, leave a lot to be desired.

Good on you for finding that. It's not just the bikes, in my family there are and have been more than a few Italian cars and all had electrical problems often traced back to poor wiring. The silver lining is that while we can fix wiring there is no way to fix the lack of character and over all design in many other bikes.

No ski jump gas tanks, fenders styled after a Herron's beak, exhausts that look like oil drums or seats that would make a medieval proctologist proud, all available for the price of a mortgage.

Throw up a pic, I use solder by the ton and my gas soldering iron is hooked up to a 20 pound propane tank so any solder job has to better than mine.