Woodwork well used but metal parts all in fine condition and smoothly operating which was, beside the good price, the main thing for me since I bought the rifle as a shooter.
Checked for a troop tag but found none.

Some pix below.

A pic of the target when I took the rifle for the first time to the range: distance 100 meter, diameter black circle 20 centimeter, about 30 shots with iron sights.

If this is your first K31, you may find Pierre St. Marie's article on "accurizing" the K31 useful. I did--even though it took me years to get around to actually trying it out. Immediately wished I'd done it sooner, notwithstanding the fact that my Swiss rifles were already about my most accurate rifles, and the most likely to be taken out after deer and feral hogs. But I digress. Here's the link: http://www.swissrifles.com/sr/pierre/accurizing.html
Note: I used small split washers (cheap ones I had on hand) for the spacers.

If this is your first K31, you may find Pierre St. Marie's article on "accurizing" the K31 useful. I did--even though it took me years to get around to actually trying it out. Immediately wished I'd done it sooner, notwithstanding the fact that my Swiss rifles were already about my most accurate rifles, and the most likely to be taken out after deer and feral hogs. But I digress. Here's the link: http://www.swissrifles.com/sr/pierre/accurizing.html
Note: I used small split washers (cheap ones I had on hand) for the spacers.

Good advice for any new K31 or any Swiss rifle for that matter. I've seen the tendency for the wood to warp, or move slightly on these rifles making contact with the barrel in undesirable places, which will mess with the accuracy of an otherwise very accurate rifle. I see guys complaining of their rifles shooting high etc. looking for different front sight blades, when the real problem is with the bedding, so always a good idea to check out how your barrel is fitting in the stock as a first step.