Aug 17, 2011

Solo - Central Java

This centre of Javanese culture has old colonial charm, the best of
Southeast Asian warmth and the wide streets and well-planned squares of a
small European town. Crumbly old-Dutch buildings and the two keratons
of Kasunan and Mangkunegaran dominate the old town, surrounded by quaint
streets lined with small houses with proudly manicured gardens.

Why,
such a lovely name for such a close-knit and affable town. Solo,
previously known as 'Surakarta' was indeed, living by its namesake,
until recently. A result, 99.9% of the population of Solo, a naturally halus
or well-mannered people, are not only extremely friendly to visitors
but also free of the 'hello mister' attitude that comes with big tourist
traps. People in Solo love a visitor.

This is a town made for the open-air. Sit in a becak or hop on the back of an ojek or motorbike taxi, stop for nasi liwet
at a small side-street or sing your heart out at one of the obscure
karaoke shacks and bars, open until dawn. Though many places are open
all night, Solo affectionately goes by the old moniker 'So-slow,'
precisely what gives it such lovable appeal.

Triwindu Antiques MarketNestled
in a labyrinthian market selling ball-bearings and car parts, the gems
at Triwindu antiques market, appear even more dramatic and blissfully
cheap compared to anywhere in Bali or Jakarta. On the fringes, next to a
small stall selling greasy knobs and bolts, sunlight streams through
Morrocan ceiling lamps saturated with color. There are venetian mirrors
and transistor radios. A stall sells reproduction antique, hefty stone
Buddha heads and brushed brass ganeshas of all sizes, next to a small
case containing three, silk 1930s clutch-purses with delicate crystal
embellishment (except that now there are two).

There
are hip 1960s cocktail sets, straight from the pages of interior design
magazines and about a tenth of the price of the same set in NYC or
London. There are silver peacock-shaped door handles in painted wrought
iron, gold vintage brooches and limestone elephants.

Because most
of the goods from Triwindu are superior-quality, reproduction antiques
and the rest genuine bric-a-brac from the last 60 years, prices are low.
Sellers from all over come to Triwindu to sell their handiwork. It is
worth a weekend trip to Solo just to furnish ones house with goods from
Triwindu, or get a year's worth of gift-buying over in one morning. The
sellers never harass and are open to bargaining.

Pasar KlewerAccording
to the tourism board, Pasar Klewer is the biggest batik and textile
market in Indonesia. This may not be wholly true but it could possible
be the friendliest. Ask to see a sarong and a podgy old lady will roll
out the whole bunch and happily put them back when one walks away.
Prices here are low. Expect to pay Rp 30.000 for a printed soft-cotton
sarong or Rp 50.000 for a silk ready-made top.

Pasar Klewer (Klewer market)

Keraton Kasunanan

Javanese
culture, dance, and music permeate the lives of the timeless occupants
of the palace, from the guards to the royal orchestra. there are few
things to see here, save for a few random artefacts and a large canoe.
The palace is far more haphazard than the smaller mangkunegaran. It's
unconventional charm, however, calls for a romantic stroll with the sand
in one's toes. Gamelan practice is from 9am - 2pm daily.

Keraton Kasunanan

Istana MangkunegaranMangkunegaran
is perhaps the more cosmopolitan of the two Karatons of Surakarta.
Mangkunegaran shares close ties with political powers of the past few
decades.

Istana Mangkunegaran

Around
the time of the Chinese rebellion against the Dutch, Raden Mas Said,
the first Mangkunegaran Sultan, born in 1725, persuaded the powers that
be to stop the war by signing the Salatiga treaty, during which time he
became a sultan. He was like his successors to date, entitled to have
his own city square, establish a women's centre, sit upon the throne and
raise a pair of sacred banyan trees.

Though modelled on a
typical keraton with fortress walls and a ceiling with a fire motif
(each color represents a positive attribute and brings peace to the
palace) Mangkunegaran went through major architectural changes during
the colonial period and exhibits European decorative features typical of
the period.