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■ *
N
THE NEW
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND.
VOL. XIIL
THE NEW
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND.
BY
THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE
SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY
FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND
DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY.
VOL. XIII.
BANPT-EL6IK-NAIBN.
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS,
EDINBURGH AND LONDON.
MDCCCXLV.
GO
BANFF.
CONTENTS
ABBRLOUR,
ALVA,
BANFF,
BOH ARM,
BOINDIB,
BOTRIPHNIE,
CABRACH,
CULLEN,
DESKFORD,
FORDYCB,
FORGLBN,
OAMRIE,
6ARTLT,
GRANGE,
GLASS, .
INVERAVEN,
INVBRKEITHNEV,
KEITH,
KIRKMICHAEL,
MARNOCH,
MORTLArn,
ORDIQUHILL, .
RATHYBN,
ROTHIBMAY.
PAGE 110
144
1
355
220
209
196
313
63
178
83
271
95
213
203
123
211
388
296
382
103
79
245
199
^7 T* /-^ - r^
O.J. jliy^
PARISH OF BANFF.
PRESBYTERY OF FORDYCE, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN.
THE REV. FRANCIS WILLIAM GRANT, MINISTER.*
I. — Topography and Natural History.
Name.'-flv some ancient writings, the name of the town is given
in each of the following ways, — Bainiffe, Boineffe, BainfFe, Banife,
thus, most probably, drawing its origin from the word Boyn, the
name of a district in which Banff is situated. Boi/n (found in older
writings under all the different orthographies of Boynd, Boyne,
Boynde, Boin, Bouyn, Buyne, Buyn, Boyen,) is apparently the
Gaelic word Buinne, a stream ; and the district appears to have
received its name from a stream passing through it, now called
Burn of Boyne. On the bank of this stream, near its entrance in-*
to the sea, is the ancient castle of Boyne ; and the neighbouring
parish of Boyndie was formerly called Inverboynde or Inverboin-
dy, t. e. mouth of Boyn. Boyndie m pronounced Beendie or Bee^
nt>,— -resembling, in this respect, the Gaelic word, more than its
present orthography would seem to indicate. The sound of y oc-
curring in the word Banff^ has probably originated from nothing
more than a peculiarity of pronunciation, — as Murray is found to
have been, at some former periods, spelled Murreff; Strathisla^
Strathileff; Bailiary, Bailiareff.
Extent, Botmdaries. — The greatest length of the parish is about
6^ miles, its greateat breadth, which is nearly in the middle, about
2 miles. Its superficial extent is probably below 9 square miles.
As indicated by the measures now given, it is in shape long and
narrow, but with a bend, the inner side of which is towards the
east : the inland extremity tapering to a point exactly like a leaf.
It lies longitudinally from N. E. to S. W.
The parish is bounded on the north by the sea of the Moray
Frith. The river Doveran, for a distance of about a mile and a
half from its entrance into the sea, forms the eastern boundary.
On the opposite side of the river, up to a rivulet fidling into it about
* Drawn up, in the indispocition of the Minister, by Alexander Smith, M. A., au-
thor of the « Philosophy of Morals.*"
BANFF. A
2 BANFFSHIRE.
half a mile from the sea, is the parish of Gamrie ; above the rivu-
let is the parish of King Edward. From the point where it ceases
to join the river, the parish of Banff is bounded, to its most souther-
ly extension, by the parish of Alva; then, for a very small distance,
by Marnoch ; — and, from that to the sea, by the parish of Boyn-
die, from which it is, in part at least, divided by the bum of that
name.
Topographical Appearances, — In the lower end of the parish, the
ground rises in the centre to an elevation of from 200 to 300 feet
above the level of the sea, forming an eminence called the Gal-
lowhill,* a prolongation of which stretches southerly, (but gradual-
ly descending, with a sweep,) concave towards the east In the up-
per part of the parish, there are one or two eminences exceeding
the Grallowhill in height, but, being less raised above the surface of
the adjoining lower grounds, (there considerably higher than the le-
vel of the coast,) they present merely the appearance of slight swel-
lings, and the surface there is altogether of the most uninteresting
character. On the east side, the Gallowhill slopes down into a
fine plain or meadow, of about a mile and a-half long, enclosed within
a circular bend of the river. On the north side, the slope being
more gradual, necessarily makes a more abrupt termination as it
approaches the sea, and the shore consists, in the parts more adja-
cent to. the river mouth, of precipitous rocky banks overhanging
the beach ; more towards the west, there is left between the abrupt
descent and the sea, a fine plain or links. On its western side,
again, the Gallowhill declines gradually, but with occasional knolls
and undulations, towards the burn of Boyndie.
Near the town and harbour, low rocks stretch out into the sea
from the beach; more to the west, and adjoining the mouth of the
burn of Boyndie, is a sandy bay called Boyndie Bay.. About mid-
way between the extremes of the coast boundary, a rocky promon-
tory is cleft in the middle into a sort of recess, (called the Elf
Kirk,) about six or seven yards deep, and two yards broad, having
perpendicular sides of rock to a considerable height. The recess
has, however, rather the appearance of being scooped out by the
action of the sea, than formed by the tearing asunder of its sides.
^ti?^ and Scenery. — The river Doveran takes its rise in the pa-
rish of Cabrach, just on the confines between the counties of Aber-
deen and Banff. Its source is 27 milesf due south of the mouth
* Anciently the place of execution.
f These distances (all rcciconed by the straight line) are taken, somewhat loosely,
from the scale on Irvine Ross's map.
BANFF. 3
of the Spey, which is 22 miles west of Banflf — thus making the ge-
neral course of the Doveran to be nearly north-east, and the dis-
tance from its source to its mouth 35 miles. But its course is far
from a straight one. Thus, from Rothiemay to where it approaches
Turriff, a distance of eleven miles, its course is, though with many
meanderings, from west to east From that point to Banff (9 miles)
its course is from south to north. Nearly a mile above the point
where, passing from between the parishes of Alva and King Edward,
the Doveran first touches the parish of Banff, it enters, with a sud-
den turn, into a rocky gorge, whose precipitous sides crowned with
wood are here joined by a semicircular stone arch. From this, the
view stretches, above, into the open country, boimded by the hill
of Alva ; below, it is closed by a succession of naked rocks and
steep wooded banks, among which the stream is seen to lose itself.
The grounds on the margin of the river continue abrupt and pre-
cipitous, for nearly a mile farther down, when they gradually re-
cede, opening out into a fine valley, round the eastern side of which
the river takes a wide sweep, enclosing the plain on which Duff
House is situated. Opposite to this plain, on the eastern side of
the river, the ground is cut by the rivulet already mentioned, issu-
ing frx)m a woody ravine. Above, is a fine declivity, crowned on the
top, and fringed along the water's edge, with wood ; its sur&ce diver-
sified with breaks and swellings, and adorned with patches and rows of
trees. Below, rises a green hill, presenting to the river and sea shore,
a face of considerable height and steepness. The road from Edin-
burgh and Aberdeen winds roimd the verge of its southern inclina-
tion ; and brings the traveller arriving in that direction, upon a pros-
pect of rather uncommon attraction. On the extremity of the seaward
slope of the hill, where it stretches out into a point skirting the bay,
stands the town of Macduff. Just where the bend of the river com«
mences, rises, on the western side, a high abrupt bank ; on the sum-
mit of which, emerging from the gloom of a thicket, is a Gothic
mausoleum, (the burying place of the Fife fiimily) — near to which,
on the verge of the bank, stands a funereal urn, containing bones
dug up on the spot, of old the cemetery of a Carmelite monaste-
ry. A little above, on the same side, is a remarkable round hill,
which tradition represents as being artificial and the work of pe-
nance, and which, now, crowned with a small summer-house or tem-
ple, forms a striking accessory to the beauty of the scene. In one
or two places, small islands, covered with wood, separate the stream
of the river into branches ; and its whole course between the two
4 BANFFSHIRE.
bridges of Banff and Alva, (a distance of two miles — ^all compre^
bended in Lord Fife's park,) * affords a succession of beautiful or
romantic scenes ; though even, perhaps, as it is, the ^^ capabilities''
of the ground have not received full justice : the walks not being
always led with sufficient skill to catch the finest points of view,
nor the necessary openings for the same purpose left in the wood.
The breadth of the river where it washes this parish does not,
perhaps, in any place, exceed 130 yards. Its depth is very un-
equal, and liable to great fluctuations from shifting masses of sand
anjl gravel. In some places, it runs in shallow streams ; in others
there are pools of 10 or 12 feet, or even of greater depth. Under
the arch of the bridge of Alva, where the stream is forcibly confin-
ed, it is said to be of 15 fathoms depth.
On some late occasions, the river, especially when aided by
high tides and northerly winds, has overflowed the low part of
the town, and occasioned much mischief and inconvenience. In
1799, in 1829, and in 1835, such inundations occurred, with a less
considerable one between the two latter periods. On these occa-
sions, there have been five or six feet of water in some of the streets,
the inhabitants being rescued from their houses by boats. In 1829,
three horses of the mail-coach were drowned, in attempting to pass
through the Market-square.
Sprinffs. — The parish is well supplied with springs, and water
may be found in most places by digging. In general, the water is
slightly impregnated with carbonate of iron. There is a spring
perceptibly chalybeate to the taste, about half a mile west of the
town; and a very strong chalybeate (of great use as a tonic)
about a mile farther west, in the parish of Boyndie.
Geology and Mineralogy, \ — The general direction of the strata
within this parish is about from north-east to south-west ; and the
parish being narrow, and running in a direction parallel to that of
the strata, and including only within its range a limited number
of beds of rock, affords but few remarkable geological features.
The prevailing rocks are clay-slate and graywacke, although
an intermixture of various other seams of rock is frequently met
with.
From the river mouth for about half a-mile, as far westward as
* A high degree of liberality is shown by die Noble proprietor In the freedom
granted to the public, of walking in his grounds.
•f- For the section on Geology and other valuable assistance, the compiler has to ac*
knowledge his obligations to James Christie, Esq. solicitor.
BANFF. 5
Boyndie bay, a ted of clay*slate is found reposing on graywacke ;
the latter, at different points, protruding through the clay*slate, and
rising, adjacent to the harbour, to the height of about forty feet.
The clay-slate is found resting on the graywacke in a conform-
able position, and following its windings in thin strata as far as
they can be seen, till dipping or covered again by the soil or other
beds of sand and shingle resting upon them. The elevation of the
strata is different at different points. Where it is in conjunction
with the graywacke, it may be at an elevation of from 60"" to 80^,
and gradually declining to a less angle of elevation as it recedes
from the graywacke and approaches the surface of the bed of clay-
slate. The clay-slate and graywacke at their junction alternate
with each other in thin veins for a small space, and are intersper-
sed occasionally with thin veins of graywacke slate. A little to the
westward of the rock called the Elf Kirk, at low water-mark, a small
portion of the old red sandstone formation makes its appearance, and
seems, to the eastward, to be in conjunction with the graywacke.
Above the old, rests a thin stratum of the new red sandstone ; but
neither appear again at any other point within the parish. Adja*
cent to the harbour, thin veins of quartz, in a variety of ramifica-
tions, run through the graywacke. Around these veins the gray-
wacke is changed to a brown, as if the heat of the quartz, poured
in a liquid state into the crack, had changed its colour. The
thickness of these quartz veins, in some places, may be about a
foot, decreasing in size, in the different ramifications, till they
totally disappear. In general, the colour of the graywacke is chang-
ed, in a greater or less degree, at all points where the veins of
quartz are found.
Towards the western side of the parish, there is a bed of mica-
slate of a fine grain, resting on secondary gneiss, which is in con-
junction, near Whitehills (in the parish of Boyndie) with the gray-
wacke, on which it appears to be reposing. This bed affords many
specimens of what is termed undulated mica-slate, and is travers-
ed, farther to the westward, by thin veins of lime, which, below
the flood-maric of the sea, is perforated with different kinds of pho-
las, which pierce the vein till obstructed by a vein of graywacke slate,
or some other of the siliceous rocks. This bed soon enters the pa-
rish of Boyndie, passing to the south-westward near Blair-shin-
noch.
The only point where granite appears, is at a place called Cairn
of Ord, the most south-westerly part of the parish. There, on a
6 BANFFSHIRE.
piece of rising ground, the granite comes to the surface. In one
part of the bed, the granite is excellent ; but in other parts, at the
same point, it passes into secondary granite, or syenite, in which
the quartz is either entirely wanting, or only found in very small
quantities. The felspar is white and small-grained, and appears
quite free from iron or any other colouring matter. Hence it re-
tains its beautiful white colour, without being changed by the ac-
tion of the atmosphere ; and, on that account, has been much
esteemed for building.
This rock passes into gneiss and coarse mica-slate, which ap-
pears at different points a little to the eastward, but which has
never been employed for any useful purpose.
Various beds of sand, shingle, and clay, of different depths at
different points, cover these strata; but none of them appear
worthy of any remark, unless in so far as regards a bed of lias clay,
which is found in patches at different points within the parish.
This bed is of very considerable extent, stretching over a surface
of more than twenty square miles. Belemnites and ammonites
are found in it at all places where it has been wrought. It has
long been wrought at Blackpots, a little to the westward of the
boundary of this parish, for bricks and tiles, and also within the
parish adjacent to the town, for the same purposes ; and the be-
leranite and ammonite have been found there in great abund-
ance, as well as various other shells peculiar to that formation.
There are no hornblende rocks in sihi within the parish, but
there is abundance of rolled blocks of that mineral scattered over
the surface, as well as of hypersthene and augite. Rolled blocks of
granite, having the felspar red, are also found. Porphyritic horn-
stone in water-worn nodules is also found on the moors and along
the sea-beach.
Alluvial deposits are very scanty, being mostly confined to a
few patches along the line of the Doveran.
The soils are extremely varied, partaking in some measure of
the nature of the rocks on which they severally repose ; being, on
the slate rock, of a clayey and soft nature, and very fertile.
Meteorology, — The climate is singularly changeable and capri-
cious. At no time can a continuance of any particular sort of
weather be in the least depended on. Winter is often compara-
tively warm, and summer cold. In 1831, the difference between
the temperature on the 24th June at half-past eight at night,
and the 11th December at the same hour, was only 5^ In
BANFF.
] 832,* in like manner, the thermometer stood so low as 50 on
the 6th July ; so high as 49^ on the 2dd January,— -on both occa-
sions at half-past eight in the evening. May and June are general-
ly characterized by severe droughts, and piercing northerly and
easterly winds. The trees are scarcely in full leaf at midsummer;
about which time, very often storms arise that blacken and wither
their foliage. The steadiest and most pleasant weather is gene-
rally in August and September.
The following meteorological tables for the year 1832, are the
result of observations taken under the direction of the Banff Sci-
entific Institution.
Ba&omktbr.
THEEMOBfXna.
£ngh€sU
LowcBt.
Mean
nighett.
Ixmeat,
Mean
i
t
1 "
' ^
ofthe
( ^
t
t
A ,
qfthe
Morn,
Even.
Morn,
Even,
Month,
Mom,
Even,
Mom,
Even,
Month,
Jan. 30.4
30.2
29.1
29.2
39.7
50.
49.5
30.
27.3
39.6
Feb. 80.5
ao.4
3a8
3a8
39.9
62.
60.
34.4
33.8
39.7
Mar. ^.3
30.3
33.8
3a8
39.6
49.
4a3
36.
33.6
4Ud
Apr. 30.6
30.6
39.8
39.3
30.
66.9
64.
41.
40.
47.2
May, 30.A
30.5
39.3
39.3
39.
68.
69.
43.
41.
49.4
June, 3a3
30.3
39.
39.3
39.8
66.
66.
49.
49.
66.8
July, 30.4
8a4
39.6
39.6
30.
68.
66.
52.
60.
67.7
Aug. 30.8
30.3
39.4
39.3
39.8
67.6
66.
61.
48.
69.6
Sept. 30.4
30.6
39.6
39.6
39.9
63.
68.
49.
48.
64.4
Oct. 30.5
30.4
39.0
39.1
i9.8
69.
67.
40.
43.
60.6
Nov. 30.4
30.4
38.7
38.9
29.6
4a
47.
31.
36.
41.3
Dec. 30.3
30.3
29.1
3a7
39.6
44.
43.
33.
33.
38.
(The observations were taken at half-past nine a. m., and half-
past eight p. M.)
Winds akd Raik.
IntAea qf
N.
N.E.
E,
S,E.
S,
S, W,
W.
N, W.
Rain.
January,
6
\
10
21
IR
3
3
0.78
February,
1
2
35
16
3
1
0.2
March, -
3
5
16
33
11
6
1.04
April,
7
5
3
11
17
5
6
6
3.
May, -
19
10
1
6
6
1
15
5
1.26
June,
6
4
6
14
8
2
10
11
3.67
July, -
18
3
1
6
3
14
11
12
1.25
August,
13
4
3
6
13
7
10
7
3.60
September,
3
4
16
4
36
7
2.10
October, -
18
38
14
3
2.44
November,
2
1
26
2L
1
9
1.8
December,
I
1
9
39
11
11
2.33
32.36
It is somewhat rema[rkable, that, notwithstanding the cold
nortfiem exposure of Banff, and the general variableness of the cli-
* These years have not been selected for this singularity, which is probably not
peculiar to them, but as being the only years of which a register of the weather is to
be had.
8 BANFFSHIRE.
mate,— cold and hot, dry and damp, succeeding each other ith
the greatest rapidity and irregularity, — the town is not only subject
to no peculiar complaints, nor to a peculiar severity of. any com-
plaints, but is in every respect, and in a high degree, healthy.
What one would least expect in such a climate, pulmonary com-
plaints are both rare, and of a gentle type when they do occur.
Consumption is far from frequent Hooping-cough is only found
in a mild form. Patients in the latter complaint are often brought
to this neighbourhood from some distance ; and9 in the opinion of
some, the locality is favourable to their recovery, in a degree be-
yond what the mere change of air (known to be always beneficial
in this disorder) can sufficiently account for.
Zoology.* — !• Mammalia. — This section of natural history does
not seem to require any particular notice ; the animals compre-
hended under it, in this parish, being such only as are common
throughout the counties of Aberdeen, Banff, and Moray. It may,
however, be remarked, that of late years several instances have oc-
curred of the hedgehog (Erijiaceus Europmin dam in this parish. White eye,
or castoneous duck (Nyroca kitcopthalmot,J a very rare visitant.
12 BANFFSHIRE.
lemot, {Cephas ffrylky here called the testie,) may often be seen
in the bay. The arctic skua ( Cataractesparasiticus, ) Black-back-
ed gull (Lotus marinus.) Herring gull (Lams ofyentatusy here
called the pewel, from its cry.) Common gull {Lams canus.) Kit-
tiwake (Larus rissoy provincially kittyy) one of the sea fowl found
in greatest abundance on the Gamrie rocks. Common tern or
sea swallow, (Sterna hirundoy provincially /nA/arroc^,) not resident
in this parish, but may occasionally be seen on its way to flat and
sandy coasts, its usual places of abode.
III. Fishes. — The sea lamprey (Petromyzon. marinusj has
been occasionally caught. It is termed the lamper eel. Common
dog-fish (Spinax acanthiosyj caught in immense quantities dur-
ing the herring season, and sold by the cart-load for manure to
the ground. The thornback skate (Rata clavata.J The common
skate (Raia batis,) Sturgeon (Acipenser sturio.) A sturgeon,
about 5 feet in length, was caught in the bay in the summer of
1833. Salmon (Salmo salar,) Bull-trout (Salmo eriax and 5a/-
mo hucho.) The bull-trout occurs occasionally in the Doveran.
Sea-trout {Sahno tmtta) found in great numbers. Finncick (SaU
mo albtis^) also found in great numbers, and by the most expe-
rienced judges regarded as a species perfectly distinct from any
other of the genus Salmo. Common burn-trout (Salmo farioJ)
Herring (Clupea harenffus;) taken in great quantities from about
the middle of July to the middle of September. Gar fish, sea-
needle or sea-pike, (Behne vulgaris.) Minnow (Leuciscus phoxi"
ntis.) hump~&shy cock-pBdley (Ci/doptems lumpus.) Commenced
(Morhtia vulgaris.) Haddock (Morhua aglefinus,) Whitehills, a
fishing village in the vicinity, is famous for its smoked or yellow
haddocks. These by many are reckoned equal, if not superior, to
the celebrated Finnon haddocks. Ling (Molva vulgaris^) not so
frequent as the cod and haddock. Whiting (Merlangus vulgaris.)
Coal fish (Merlangus carbonarius.) The young in their least state
are called gerrachsy afterwards /M>
Land-oumersi'^The principal landholders at present are, the
Earl of Fife, Earl of Sei^eld, and Sir Robert Abercromby of Birk*
enbog, grandson, by the mother's side, of the last Lord Banff.
To a comparatiyely late period, the town seems to have been a
very insignificant place, little more than a fishing village, an ap-
pendage to the monastery and castle. The streets were not paved
before 1551 ; and, at the beginning of the succeeding century, few
houses besides Lord Airlie's, Lord Banff's, and the Laird of Auch-
medden's houses, were slated. The harbour was formerly within
the river.*
Historical Events. — The town has never been connected with any
historical event of importance, but some visitations to which it was
subjectedin the troublous times of old, have no doubt been reckoned
of sufficient importance by the inhabitants. Spalding relates that, in
March or April 1644, " There went down to Banff the lairds of
Gight, Newtown, and Ardlogie, with a party of forty horse and mus-
keteers, brave gentlemen. They took in the town, without contradic-
tion, meddled with the keys of the tolbooth, took free quarters, and
plundered all the arms they could get, buff-coats, pikes, swords,
carabines, pistols, yea, and money also. They took frae Alexan-
* The followiog effort of ** the Tision and the ftcultr divine,** is the production of
no leas famous a person than Dr Arthur Johnstoun, being one of his ** Epigrams upon
MCveraU of the Royall burghs in ihit kingdom ; as may hejbund in hia poems printed
at Middle- Burgh, 1642. Trantlaied into English by I. B/* (elsewhere more fully
designed, '* Mr John Barclay, person ** that the pannals took ane kill at yr oune hand, and
that they feared yr women, and that they were armed, and that they took yr kaill,
and missed sheep after tlicy were gone," &c.
2t) BANFFSUIRK.
The most extraordinary part of the transaction is, that the guilt
or innocence of the *^ three young rogues'' seems to have been
thought a matter not worth inquiring about. There is no appear-
ance whatever of their having been named in the indictment, or
produced in court, or of any endeavour to identify them or charge
them with a crime. The mere fact of their being in prison, the
good Sheriff seems to have thought '^ relevant to infer the pains
of law." Very possibly, however, the " young rogues" may have
got substantial, though not formal, justice.
The two Browns were sentenced, on the 21st February follow-
ing, to be hanged on the 2d April. It appears, however, that
Mcpherson alone of the four was executed. Probably Gordon was
pardoned. The Browns are thought to have escaped. M^Pher-
son performed at the foot of the gallows, the ** Rant" and Pibroch
of his own composition, and then made offer of his violin to any
one who would receive it as a remembrance of him. The gift
being declined, he broke the violin, and threw the fragments into
the grave prepared for his body.
The story of M^Pherson's being executed before the time spe-
cified in the sentence, in order to prevent his being benefited by an
expected reprieve, is discredited.*
Antiquities. — The parish is almost wholly destitute of any re-
mains of antiquity. Two cells of the Carmelite monastery (men-
tioned as existing at the time of the last Statistical Account) have
for several years been removed, and given place to modern houses.
Not far from the site of these, a small vaulted chamber, supposed
to have been a sleeping cell, now affords accommodation to the
boiler of a steam-engine employed at the foundery. Some arches,
apparently parts of similar cells, yet exist behind the inn called the
Royal Oak ; and persons alive till a late period remembered of
there having been a continuous line of such cells between the two
points now indicated. This range of cells seems to have terminat-
ed the buildings of the monastery to the east, unless that an hos-
pital, of which there is a tradition as existing about the site of the
* Very little tradition of M*Pberson remains in this the scene of his death. Se-
veral of the above particulars I owe to a notice in the New Monthly Magazine, Vol.
i., and a note to ^* M'Pherson's lament" in the Kttrick Shepherd's edition of Bums.
One very old man informs me of being told by his grandfather, who was one of the
guards at M*Pher8on*s execution, that the verses commonly circulated as spoken by
M'Fherson on that occasion were really those uttered by him. A few of them that
were repeated by my informant, corresponded most (if I rightly recollect) with the
first set given by the Ettrick Shepherd.— The execution took place on the GaUowhill.
BANFF. 27
present bede-house, may have formed one of its appurtenances.
The yards or garden grounds of the monastery, with its chapels
and other dependencies, are supposed to have extended beyond the
present southern limits of the town, and as far as the small rem-
nants of the " Lodging" of the Earl of Airly in Duff House kit-
chen garden.
The precise time when this religious house was first established
here is uncertain. It is supposed, on what authority I know not,
to have been as early as the time of Malcolm the Maiden, or even
of Malcolm Canmore. The charter granted by Robert Bruce
evidently implies that it had existed before, probably long before,
the date of that instrument, since it goes merely to confirm ^^ Deo,
beatse Marise virgini, et religiosis viris Fratribus de Monte Car-
mele, capellam beatse Marise juxta villam de Banff, una cum solo
ad eandem capellam pertinente, ad aedificandum ibidem Ecclesiam
et aliis domes sui ordinis, et ad inhabitandum dom. locum cum fra-
tribus ejusdem ordinis, prout a summa pontifice eiisdem fratribus
specialiter est concessum ; prseterea damus et concedimus hac pre-
senti carta nostra confirmationis, fratribus ibidem deo servienti-
bus, et servituris, illam davatam terrse cum pertinentiis quae ad
dictam capellam ante presentem coUationem nostram pertinere so-
lebat, ad inveniendum panem vinum et ceram ad cultum domini
ibidem devotius exercendum."
It is not perfectly clear whether the chapel of the blessed Mary
here mentioned was one on the present site of Lord Fife's mau-
soleum, or the old church (formerly called St Mary's) on the bury-
ing ground of the town, but more probably the latter.
At the time of the Reformation, it is well known that many of
the religious houses, foreseeing the difficulty of preserving their
possessions, adopted the plan of feuing them out at a low considera-
tion to powerful laymen ; and a ready chapman of this description
seems to have presented himself to the Carmelite t>rethren in the
person of Sir Walter Ogilvie of Dunlugas, — an individual who ap-
pears to have been gifted with a rare turn for the acquisition of
property.* In a charter dated 1544, the friars make over to Sir
Walter the Dawhaugh and its pertinents, but reserve a certain
space of ground (adjoining the site of Lord Fife's mausoleum,)
* His tombstone, built into the old church wall, is one ofthe oldest monuments in
the shurchyard. The wonder is, that he did not contrive to get all the churchyard
to himself.
28 BANFFSUIRB.
and the grant inak^s no mention of, and cannot be supposed to
comprehend, the houses and gardens of the monastery in the town.
Sir Walter, however, appears to have subsequently become pos-
sessed of the whole, at least there is evidence of his descendants
being soon after in possession ; ^nd these continued to hold the
yards till a late period, parts of which, indeed, are still held by
them, either in possession or as superiors.* Through these yards
was formed, about the year 1770, the street called Bridge Street,
now one of the principal thoroughfares of the town. The rest of
the Carmelite lands, extending southward from the town, were suc-
cessively conveyed (in 1630) to* Lord Airly, and (in 1690) to Lord
Fife. The superiority and feu-duties, which, in the year 1617,
had been gifted by James VI, to King's College, Aberdeen, were
also bought up, in 1752, by Lord Fife.
A few very old persons can yet remember some large massy
ruins, standing on the space now occupied by the plainstones, cal-
led the Towers. These have probably been originally a part of
the. monastery, but are known to have been latterly a residence of
the Lords Banff. In some old rights this building is styled a pa--
lace — a distinction it is supposed to have acquired in consequence
of having been the temporary abode of certain of the Scottish kings,
who, as appears from the date of some old charters, had visited the
town. This building was demolished by General Monro, in August
1640, as is thus related in the History of the Gordons, (Vol. ii.
p. 339,) " Monro having marched to Bamff, (as said is,) encamp-
ed in Sir George Ogilvy, (afterward created by the King, Lord
Bamff,) his garden, inclosed with excellent stone- walls, and plant-
ed with the best fruit-trees then could be had. All of which they
immediately hewed down, not leaving one fruit- tree, or barren,
young or old, standing; and they dug up all the hedges by the
root. They entirely demolished his house there, one of the state-
liest and finest in the north, and carried away all the timber and
iron work in it, leaving nothing standing but the ruinous walls.
When this barbarous act was told the King ('tis reported) he said,
as for the house, it mattered not much, money could build it up
again in a short time ; but it was a cruel thing to destroy the gar-
den, which many years could not repair." Spalding also speaks
* The Magistrntcs of Banff pay a feu- duty for the site of the town -house to this
day.
BANFF. 29
of the destruction of ^^ the pleasant planting and fruitful young
trees bravely growing within the laird of Banfifs orchard and gar-
dens," and of his " stately house of Banff," as " pitiful to see !"
The gardens were the yards of the monastery, already mentioned.
The lands on which the sea-town now stands belonged to the
chapel of the Holy Rood. This chapel is supposed to have stood
on the Rose Crag (towards the present northern extremity of the
castle-grounds ;) another supposition is, that it was on the site of
the old churth.* The lands of this chaplainry were, in the year
1552, feued in perpetuity, by certain bailies and burgesses acting,
as commissioners of the town, with the consent of Mr James Cur-
rer or Currier, chaplain of the Holy Rood, to Sir Walter Ogilvy,
then provost, for payment of forty shillings yearly to the chaplain.
The moving causes for this conveyance are stated to be *^ ob aug-
mentationem rentalis dictae capellanise Sancti Crucis de Banff pro
perpetua sustentatione capellani ejusdem omni tempore affuturo
fien. ob divini cultus venerationem et exhibitionem et ad extir-
pandam heresim tamdiu eminentem ut omnis prorsum earum am-
biguitas et recidat quod fieri nen poterit nisi interve-
niente et propitio magno dei numine et cum proximorum
procerum ac primatum orthodoxam fidem tenen. et servan. ac pre-
cipue auxilio et defensioue nobilis viri Walteri Ogilvie de Dunlu-
gas, militis et propositi nostri burgi de Banff, de nobis semper bene
meriti, hinc igitur dedisse," &c. Two of the commissioners could
not sign their names to the deed. From Sir Walter Ogilvie the
lands were conveyed, along with the Carmelite lands, to the Laird
of Braco; and, by him, in exchange for some lands near Duff
House, to the town of Banff, to which they now afford a feu-duty.
Another chapel (dedicated to St Thomas the Apostle) is sup-
posed to have stood somewhere between the sites of the present
parish church and St Andrew^s Chapel. Names still existing, St Ni-
nian's, St Catherine's, &c. evince the once consecrated character
of various localities in the town.
It is known that the Knights- Templars anciently held property
in the burgh, and a house is still remembered (standing in the wa-
ter-path, at the south corner of the lane passing between it and
the Castle Street,) which bore the iron cross, the usual token by
* All existing notices regarding the chaplainry of the Holy Rood, and that on the
site of the old church (whether the same, or diiferent, or how endowed) are confused
and obscure.
30 BANFFSHIRE.
which the fraternity marked their possessions. A short distance from
the town is a place called Spittal mire^ supposed a corruption of Ao«-
pitalmire^ perhaps from a house of that description belonging to the
templars. It appears that when, on the abolition of the order of
Knights St John, who succeeded the templars, their possessions were
erected into a lordship in favour of Sir James Sandilands in 1563,
many parts of these possessions were found to be so much scatter-
ed, and let for such insignificant rents or feu-duties, as not to be
worth the attention of the new proprietors ; and, in this way, pro-
bably, the possessions of the templars in this town have passed
at length into common burgage tenures.
All that now remains of the ancient castle is a part of the outer
wall and of the ditch. The house where Archbishop Sharp was
born was pulled down about twenty years ago. One or two pieces
of lettered freestone taken from it have been built into the church-
yard wall, at the burial-ground of the Sharp family.
The castle was a constabulary or lodging for the King when
visiting this part of his dominions, and where he, or, in his ab-
sence, the thane, or constable, or sheriff administered justice.
These officers being named by the King, and moveable at pleasure,
the castle seems always to have been public or royal property,
until the Earl of Buchan, (who married, as formerly mentioned,
Margaret Ogil vie of Auchterhouse,) was appointed hereditary thane
or constable. From the Buchan family, the castle was conveyed
to Robert Sharp, sheriff-clerk of Banff, elder brother of the famous
archbishop, (the father, William Sharp, having had it before in
feu.) The archbishop was murdered in 1679, and after Robert's
death the castle descended to his brother's son, Sir William Sharp
of Stony hill, who resigned it to Leslie of Kininvie, from whom it
passed to the Earl of Findlater * — whose heir. Lord Seafield, still
holds it Lord Seafield, it may be noted, was descended from
the family of Auchterhouse, who formerly held the Castle.
The old Castle of Inchdrewer, supposed to have been built
about the time of James IV. or V., is still so entire as to be ha-
bitable by the family of a tenant of Sir Robert Abercromby's. Its
appearance possesses no peculiar feature of interest, and the only
incident connected with it is the death of a Lord Banff who was
burned in the year 1713, under some circumstances not very well
explained. It is said that, having embraced the Roman Catholic
* The office of Sheriff was resigned by the Earl of Buchan to Bairdof Auchmed-
den, and by him to Ix>rd Findlater, who held it till the abolition of heritable juris-
dictions. 3
BANFF. 81
religion, he had gone for some time to Ireland, engaged proba-
bly in some of the intrigues then carrying on in behalf of the Pre-
tender ; and it was suspected that the persons in whose charge he
had left the Castle, having pillaged some of his valuable property,
murdered him immediately after his return, and set his apartment
on fire, for the sake of concealment. By some, it seems, the event
was viewed as a judgment on his apostacy, and particularly with
regard to some threats used by him, of burning the Protestants.
This event might well have entitle4 the old castle to be haunted ;
but I have never heard that it enjoys that reputation.
A vaulted aisle of the old church still remains in the church-
yard, and is a burying-place of the family of Lord Banff.
Adjoining Lord Fife's mausoleum is a very curious ancient monu-
ment, on which is represented the figure of an armed warrior recum-
bent, vrith the inscription, ^< Hie jacet Johanes Duf, de Maldavat et
Baldavi, obiit 2 Julii 1404," &c. This monument, with the ashes of
the deceased (an ancestor of Lord Fife,) was brought from CuUen.
Some years ago, in levelling a small hillock on Provost Cam'e-
ron's farm of Poddocklaw, a stone coffin or case was found, inclos-
ing a vase of baked earth, in which were some ashes and fragments
of bones. In a tumulus dug into on a neighbouring farm, several
of such vases were found, placed on a sort of stone bench, sup-
ported on blocks. On this bench some of the vases were invert-
ed, others had a flat stone on the top, the whole being covered
over with earth.
Within a few years also, in the course of digging the foundation
of a new house 'on the high shore, at the foot of the Castlehill, a
vessel was found containing a quantity of silver coins. They are
about the size of sixpence, but very thin and greatly defaced, and
covered with a green rust. Six of these coins (which the writer
has seen) are in the possession of J. A. Cameron, Esq. Solicitor,
— other six are in the museum of the Banff Institution. Of these
coins one only presents a crowned head in profile, and the name
Alexander is traceable round the edge. The obverse is quartered,
in each quartering a star, and, around. Rex Scotorum is pretty vi-
sible. The other eleven are ascertained to be of the coinage of
Edward 11. of England.
In a small plantation of Lord Fife's on the Gallow-hill is a tu-
mulus, having some appearance of being an ancient sepulchre; but
it has never been opened.
Modem Buildings. — In the list of modern buildings, the first.
32 BANFFSHIRE.
or rather the only one, as a piece of architecture, deserving men-
tion, is Duff House, the splendid mansion of the Earl of Fife, —
splendid as it is, still more so if the design were completed. It was
built eighty or ninety years ago by William Lord Braco, after a
design by Adams, the first of the celebrated architects of that
name, at an expense of about L. 70,000. The style is purely Ro-
man. The body of the house (for the wings have never yet been
added) is of an oblong shape, and consists of four lofty stories.
The first is a rustic basement, over which rise two stories adorn-
ed with fluted pilasters, and an entablature of the style of the
temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome. Over this entablature, which
goes round the whole structure, there is an attic story, surmount-
ed by a balustrade. The four comers of the building have pro-
jections resembling towers, which break and vary the outline, and
also rise to a greater height than the other parts of the attic story.
These towers are adorned at the angles by an upper range of pi-
lasters, with an entablature of the composite order, and are crown
ed at top by domical roofs, on which octagonal pedestal chimneys
are placed. Both the entrance and back &9ades have also central
projections surmounted by pediments, on which the family arms are
cut in bas-relief, which, with the appended achievements, fill the
entire spaces of the face of the pediments. The entablature and
capitals of the pilasters, as well as the smaller ornaments, are ex*
quisitely carved, though some of these last, for what reason I know
not, have been left unfinished. The back and front of the build-
ing are precisely alike, except that the basement part of the pro-
jection in front is occupied by an outer stair, of two circular as-
cents, with carved stone balustrades. The principal entrance is
thus on the second story. From an arcade below the landing-
place of the outer stair there is an entrance to the servants' hall.
Duff House, to be seen to advantage, requires to be beheld
pretty near. There is too little variety of outline, and the colour
of the material (freestone) is too dingy to strike at a distance. It
is besides desirable that the eye should be diverted from the con-
fused assemblage of chimneys and slated pavilions by which it is
surmounted, which seem to create an incongruous mixture of the
castellated and the classic styles. Seen so near as to discern the ela-
borate ornaments, the appearance of Duff House is in the highest
degree rich, graceful, and majestic.
Duff House contains a large collection of paintings, many of
which are interesting and valuable, either as specimens of art, or
BANFF. 33
as portraits of celebrated characters, and examples of the costume
of various ages and countries. Among the more excellent of the
former dass may be enumerated a portrait, in perfect presenra*
tion, of the Constable de Bourbon, by Titian. This has been al«
lowed by the best judges, both in this country and on the conti-
nent, to be one of the very finest specimens of the great Venetian
colourist. A head of Charles I. by Vandyke, esteemed a most
characteristic specimen of that master ; a portrait, three-quarters
length, of Lord Strafford, and a fuU-length of Lady Herbert, both
by Vandyke, and regarded as very fine ; a full length portrait of
the 'present Earl of Fife by Raeburn; an original portrait of Mo-
liere ; various portraits, chiefly of females, by Sir Peter Lely ; por-
trait of Sir Godfrey Kneller by himself; portrait of Henderson,
the Scottish preacher, by Jameson ; portrait of Mrs Abingdon
by Sir Joshua Reynolds, esteemed a beautiful specimen of that
roaster ; landscape by Ruysdael ; a flower-piece, beautifully co-
loured, and esteemed a first rate specimen of art ; a candle-light
scene, by Schalcken ; cattle-piece, by Cuyp ; dog and monkey,
with still life, by Snyders ; a large landscape by Wynants ; a land-
scape by Wouvermans ; an infant Christ by Murillo ; Virgin and
child by Corregio ; philosopher and skull by Quintin Matsys, the
blacksmith of Antwerp ; i^ea-piece by Backhuysen ; shepherd with
his flock by Rosa da Tivoli ; landscape by Domenichino ; head
of Charles L by Velasquez ; two specimens of the rare Spanish
painter Cano ; a painting by Luca Giordani ; Ostade's mother by
himself, and several other excellent specimens of the Flemish and
Dutch school, &C. Among those of the second class may be no-
ticed, portraits of most of the English kings, from Henry V. to
George H., including a full-length of Henry VHL by Hol-
bein, formerly in the possession of Sir Joshua Reynolds; portraits
of Cromwell, Marlborough, Marshal Villars, Prince Eugene,
Charles XIL, Peter the Great, John Duke of Argyle, small head
of Ludovico Caracci,&c. Respectable strangers are readily admit-
ted, at all times, to view this collection.
Two years ago, a very handsome though small chapel was erect-
ed for the Episcopal congregation. It is in the Gothic style.
The west front, of dressed freestone, is flanked by two carved
minarets, and otherwise chastely but tastefully ornamented. The
inside is finished in an appropriate manner, and has a very pleas-
ing effect. The chapel possesses a good organ.
The parish church stands at the south side of the town, on a
BANFF. C
34 BANFFSHIRE.
highly advantageous site, being on a sort of platform projecting
forward from the declivity on which the town is situated. In its
outside appearance the church is perfectly plain. ^^ The spire''
(says the worthy writer of the old Statistical Account) ** still re-
mains in an unfinished state, which gives the whole building a
heavy and awkward appearance. It is intended, however, to re-
sume the work next season." I regret to say that the same
words are still descriptive of the position of affairs in this par-
ticular, if, merely for ^* intended," we read ^^ no^ intended." An at-
tempt was lately made to raise funds by subscription for erecting
a spire, according to a very handsome design, furnished by Mr
Robertson, architect, of Elgin, but this purpose has not as yet
succeeded. The inside of the church is sparingly but very taste-
fully decorated. The pulpit and galleries are of uncommon
height ; and the whole character of the interior is in a high degree
light, airy, and spacious. A few years ago the church was very
handsomely fitted up (by subscription) for burning gas lights.
In the interior of the church (though the parish burying-ground
is not adjoining — the old church-yard* being still used for that pur-
pose,) are four handsome monuments of marble, built into the walls.
One of these is a very fine piece of sculpture by Bacon. It was
erected, in addition to another in the cathedral church at Calcutta,
by Sir David Octherlony and the army under his command, to the
memory of Lieutenant Peter Liawtie (a native of Banff.) It re-
presents a soldier leaning over a funeral vase in an attitude of
4eep grief. The figure and draperies are exquisitely carved.
Of the other monuments, one is erected to the memory of the
Rite Mr John Cruickshank, Rector of Banff Academy, by his
former pupils ; another to the memory of the late Mr A. Gassy
(elsewhere mentioned as a benefactor of the town) erected by sub-
scription. The remaining monument is a private one.
The town-house, built about forty years ago, is a very large,
but entirely plain building, forming two sides of a square, with a
spire rising from the external angle. The spire, which is much
older than the house, is a sort of fluted cone, of very graceful
proportions, rising from a square tower. The whole height of
the spire is 100 feet The tower, spire, and front of the house
are built of dressed sandstone. The house is of three very lofty
* It may deserve mention Uiat the burying-ground afTords a fiivourable specimen,
on a small scale, of what may be called church-yard gardening, being tastefully laid
put, 9nd adorned nrith flowers and shrubs.
BANFF. 35
stories* It contains a hall, two large drawing-rooms, Town-coun-
cil Chamber, Sheriff-court Room, Town Chamberlain's and Sheriff
Clerk's offices, and prisons. The staircase and landing-places
are spacious.
There is a Trades' Hall, mason lodges. Sec but neither these nor
any of the other buildings in the parish are, as buildings, deserv-
ing of any notice. It may be mentioned, however, that a few of
the more considerable private houses lately built in the town have
been designed with some degree of regard to architectural sym-
metry and decoration, and present rather handsome fronts. Al-
most every kind of building material is easily procured. Plain
walls are generally built of a sort of soft blue slate. Window ri-
bats, or whole fronts, are of dressed granite or sandstone. Bricks
are also employed for slighter or more temporary purposes.
III. — Population.
The population of the parish, at different periods, has been as
follows :
In 1801 the population was d571
1811,
3603
1821,
3855
I8M,
87U
Males in the town in 1881,
- liS9
Females,
1706
Total in the town,
S935
Males in the country,
360
Females,
416
776
Total, - 371 1
The decrease between 1821 and 1831 is ascribed, in the Go-
vernment return, to absence of public works and emigration.
The average of registered births for the last seven years is 62 ;
of marriages, 25. There is no official register of deaths ; but, from
a private list kept by the grave-digger, the average number of bu-
rials, annually, in the church-yard of Banff, appears to be 55.
Lord Fife is the only heritor that has a residence in the parish.
Hb Lordship has been living constantly at Duff House for more
than two years past. Perhaps it would be difficult to name more
than one or two other persons of independent fortune in the parish.
There are only three proprietors of land of the yearly value of
L. 50 or upwards.
The writer can learn of only 1 insane person in the* parish, and
4 fatuous ; of none blind (from natural causes ;) nor of any deaf
or dumb.
Language. — Among the higher and better educated classes, the
English language may be heard spoken in tolerable purity, both
36 BANFFSHIRE.
as to idiom and pronunciation : there are few who cannot express
diemseWes in English, still fewer who do not familiarly understand
it when distinctly spoken. Unmixed Scotch is never to be heard*
The most common dialect is a mixture of Scotch and English, the
Scotch used being of the somewhat vicious kind, known, I believe,
by the name of the Aberdeenshire. The Scotch, however, isgra^
. dually wearing out Every person remembers the frequent use,
in former years, of terms and phrases that are now seldom to be
heard but among the older and more secluded. Even, however,
in what is called, by courtesy, speaking English, or using English
words, there is often a sore lack of the genuine English pronun-
ciation. The defect b not so much in the accentuation, as in the
vowel and diphthongal sounds* Thus the three different sounds
of the letter a mfar^fat^faultj are all given alike, as in^r. The
sound of t, as in Aim, is made the same as e in A^r, — unless when
some, flying from this Scylla of orthoepy, fall into the Charybdis
of pronouncing it as if spelled heem. No difference is made be-
tween the two sounds of o in pop and pope^ and the oa in broad,
Rodj rode^ broad^ are all made to rhyme together. The long a
(as in made) is pronounced like the English short e : fed B.nAfade
are pronounced just alike. Unaccented vowels are generally lost,
or sounded like the French e in k. Regular is pronounced reghr
or regeler ; prelate, prelet ; absolute^ abseleU Even in the matter
of pronunciation, however, there is a great and progressive im-
provement.
Character and Circumstances. — Generally speakii^, the intel-
lectual, moral, and religious character of the people deserves to
be favourably mentioned ; though, undoubtedly, anoong particular
sections of the population, profligacy and vice is to be (bund pre-
vailing in no inconsiderable degree. Perhaps vices of sensuality
are more to be noted than those of injustice or inhumanity. Of
poaching or smuggling there are scarcely any instances in the pa-
rish. The people are also, in general, very cleanly in their habits.
The poorer classes in the country subsist mostly on meal, milk,
and vegetables, particularly potatoes, and kail, or colewort. Near-
er the coast, fish may be easily had.
Both in town, among the trading and labouring classes, and in
the landward part of the parish, among the crofters and small
farmers, there are a considerable number of persons, who, if not
in absolutely destitute, are in very straitened circumstances ; and
who, neither in regard to freedom from worldly anxiety, nor suf-
BANFF. 37
fioiency of even the necessaries of existence, can properly be said
to enjoy a reasonable portion of the comforts of life* Even among
these, however, discontent with their lot is not a remarkable fea-
ture — though (and particulariy in the town) the want of the whole-
some excitement which a prosperous course of industry creates, is
often sought to be supplied by that which is to be derived from
the use of spirituous liquors. Nor is it probably too favourable a
judgment to pass on human conduct, to say, that habits of in*
ebriety are, at least, as often the effect as the cause — they are un-
doubtedly both — of depressed worldly circumstances*
It is supposed that firom 40 to 45 cases of illegitimate birth
have occurred within the last three years.
Amusements. — It can scarcely be said that the people of the
middle or lower classes now devote any but a mere insignificant
part of their time to what could properly be called amusement It
would almost seem as if men had now outgrown the relish for
amusement, or &id amusement in what was once the business of
life. Even children seem indifferent to the sports and pursuits with
which the children of former days appeared to be absorbed* There
is now a harder competition for the means of livelihood — anxieties
inconsistent with the pursuit of amusement have taken hold of men's
minds* An improved state of the practical arts make» every pro-
fession more difficult of acquisition, furnishes new occupation for
ingenuity, new aims for mental activity, new subjects of emulation, —
the diffusion of knowledge has created new desires, new ideas, new
sources of excitement* From the increased diffusion of newspapers
and cheap popular prints, a taste for reading has sprung up to a
considerable extent Such works as Chambers's Journal are fre-
quently bought by farm-servants and artisans* Newspapers are
circulated as long as the texture of the paper holds together, or
its colour can be distinguished from that of the printer's ink. The
recent political excitements, indeed, whatever may be their good
or evil tendencies otherwise, have doubtless tended to increase or
create an appetite for knowledge : there being few political ques-
tions that do not, at least indirectly, excite a curiosity, and lead to
inquiries, touching a variety of extrinsic subjects in history, geo-
graphy, statistics, arts, commerce, &c. A man who sets up for a
politician finds occasion to learn a great many things besides politics.
IV.— rlNDDSTRY*
Agriculture, — The extent of cultivated land in the parish is
3778 imperial acres; of uncultivated and pasture lands, 1161
38 BANFFSHIRE.
acres. Of the last mentioned, there are 215 acres (on the estate
of Sir Robert Abercromby,) the improvement of which has been
conditioned for. Some maintain that there is yet a quantity of
waste land in the parish that might be profitably improved, others
that cultivation is already over extended. There is no undivided
common. The number of acres under wood is 223. *
In the grounds of Duff House, which comprise most of the plant-
ing in the parish, are to be found ash, elm, beech, plane, birch,
lime, maple, oak, horse-chestnut, mountain-ash, and various species
of firs. Here there seems to have been rather too little done as
r^ards the affairs of thinning and pruning, &c. — (principally, it
is alleged, fix>m an indisposition to diminish the shelter for the game,)
and much of the wood is of very slender growth.
What other planting is in the parish belongs to Lord Seafield,
and consists mostly of firs ; but, from age and thinning together,
may be described as rather verging to decay. Sir Robert Aber-
cromby is at present in the intention of planting some belts and
clumps on his property in the upper part of the parish, and about
fifty imperial acres have been laid off for that purpose.
About a mile from the town, is a very considerable nursery for
plants of all kinds, suitable to the climate.
Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land in the parish
may be stated at about 16s. per acre. It varies from 5s. to L. 2.
* This statement is made up from the best existing data, namely, from accounts
procured of the lands belonging to each proprietor in the paruh : but, as there have
been, as regards the greater part, no late survey, its exact correctness cannot be war-
ranted. The total amount which it furnishes is 5162 imperial acres ; and after
making allowance for the space occupied by the town of Banff, roads, &c. the whole
extent of the parish would fiill short of that stated in Robertson's map, viz. 63 12 acres.
The map, however, includes in the parish of Banff a tract of perhaps 100 acres*
on the river side, (from about the cruive dike to the bridge of Alva,) considered by
the agent of LfOrd Fife, the proprietor, to be in the parish of Alva, and not included
in the present computation — also a space, which may be guessed at 500 acres on this
side of the bum of Boyndie, similarly stated, by the agents of Lord Seafield, the pro-
prietor, to be in the parish of Boyndie.
The boundaries of the two parishes are thus fixed in the decreet of disjunction 1635 :
" Ye said parochine of Banff to have includit yairintill ye toune of Banff, with ye
pendicles of ye samyn as it had of before, and to have adjoyned yairto out of ye said
parochine of Inverboyndy ye landis of Ord, Inchdrower. with ye pendicles yrof ; the
lands of Blairahinnoch, Kilbeuchlie, Paddocklaw, and Cullinorttis, ye whilk haill
landis and parochine lyes on the eist side of the bume of Inverboyndy ; and the said
parochine of Inverboindy to have includit yairin as the particular boundisofye
parochine of the samyn, the haill lands lyand betwixt the bume of Boyne at the west,
the burne of Inverboyndy at the east, the sea on the north, and the landis of park
of Comcairn at the south pairtis."
It seems the general understanding at present that, at least, the lands of Easter
Baldavie and Raggal, with the plantations of Baldavic (all on this side of the burn
of Boyndie,) belong to the parish of Boyndie-*and these lands are not Mpecifted, (un-
less under the name of
50 BANFFSHIRE.
there are monthly or weekly meetings held, and contributions made
for religious purposes. The whole amount thus collected will
probably not exceed L. 25 per annum/
The average amount of extraordinary collections in the parish
church for the last five years, (after deduction, in each case, of a
sum equal to an ordinary collection,) has been L. 25. About
three-fifths of the amdlint has been devoted to charitable, the re-
mainder to religious purposes.
Education. — An academy was formed in 1786,* under the di-
rections of Dr Chapman, formerly rector of the grammar school at
Dumfries, and author of a work on Education of some character at
that period. The classes are taught by a rector and two masters :
Latin, Greek, and French by the rector ; writing and mathema-
tics, together with book-keeping, geography, and navigation, by
one of the masters ; English reading, elocution, and grammar, by
the other. Drawing is also taught by a separate master. The
expense^of education varies, of course, according to the number
and description of branches in which each pupil takes lessons ; but
the highest expense for a (principally) classical education, does
not ordinarily exceed 12s. 6d. per quarter; for a trading education,
9s. 6d. ; an elementary, 6s. Course of book-keeping, L. 1, Is. ; na-
vigation, 10s. 6d.; French, 10s. 6d.
The number of boys attending the academy has, of late years,
been about 150; of girls at separate hours, about 20. Each of
the masters, besides the fees of his class, receives a certain fixed
sum from the town. The rector also has the salary of parish
schoolmaster.
The academy has 16 bursaries, one of which (in the disposal
of the Presbytery of Fordyce) is of the annual value of the
interest of L. 600. The value of the other 15 is from L.2 to
L.3,4s.t
* There is evidence of there having been a grammar school at Banff, as far back
as 1544. The charter (formerly mentioned) granted by the Carmelite brethren, to
Sir Walter Ogilvie of Dunlugas, bears to be witnessed, among others, ^* Guliiermo
Clerk, preceptore schols grammatices de Banff."
In the year 15S5. Bishop Cunningham of Aberdeen granted a chdrter, confirmed
by James VI. in 1592, assigning the tenths of the King^s rents of certain lands in the
county, for the maintenance of grammar schools in Banff; the teacher to be appoint-
ed by the Provost, Bailies, and Town Council of Banff, but the trial of his fitness to
be with the Bishops of Aberdeen, or, failing them, the principal of King's Collrge*
Aberdeen. These tenths amounted to L. 44, IDs. 6d. per annum ; but it does not
appear that they have, up to a late period, or even ever been drawn. The charter,
(but recently discovered,) has been printed, with some additional notices regarding
the ancient state of the school.
t Three of these were endowed by Bailie Winchester,— of whom, as formerly men-
tioned, the Laird of Gigfat borrowed a trifle in 1644.
BANFF. 51
There is a private uoendowed school in the town/ called the
Commercial School, at which the number of boys attending as re-
gular day- scholars, varies from 40 to 60 ; of other boys, at sepa-
rate hours, from 1*5 to 20 ; of girls, at separate hours, about 30.
Here the fee for reading and writing together is 4s. 6d. per quar-
ter; for English reading and grammar, writing and arithmetic, to-
gether, 6s. 6d. per quarter ; geography and higher mathema-
tics, 7s. 6d. ; navigation, 10s. 6d. ; book-keeping, single, 7s. 6d.,
double, 15s.
In 1804, Mr Alexander Pirie, merchant in Banff, left the sum
of L. 1100 in trust to the town -council and kirk-session, for the
maintenance (from the yearly interest) of a free school, — a feu in
the sea*town, and an additional sum of L. 100, being at the same
time assigned by him for the erection of a school and schoolmas-
ter's house. The school is open to all poor children (able to read
the catechism) whom the trustees may admit ; and instruction is
given in reading, writing, arithmetic, and church music The
usual number of scholars of late has been from 70 to 80.
There are several unendowed boarding and day-schools for
young ladies under the direction of highly accomplished teachers;
the branches taught, and terms^ being such as are usual in other
similar establishments.
There is a female charity school, under the management of the
parish minister and a committee of ladies. The salary of the
teacher is made up from subscriptions, and a small annual payment
from a charitable bequest. The number of girls generally attend-
ing is from 50 to 60. They receive instruction in reading, writ-
ing, sewing, and knitting. One penny a-week is paid by each
scholar to assist in procuring school-books and stationery. The
right of admitting scholars is vested in the subscribers.
The exact number of persons in the parish who cannot read or
write is not ascertained ; but after inquiries made among a great
variety of persons, I feel warranted in saying, that, if there are any
cases of this description, the number is altogether insignificant.
This is sufficient evidence of the value attached to education by
the people of the parish ; but matters having been always pretty
much the same in this respect, there are no data, in the particular
case, for calculating the effect produced on moral habits by in-
creased facilities of instruction.
Similar circumstances to those that created occasion for an addi*
tional church in the upper part of the parish, make an additional
52 BANFFSHIRE.
school in the same place to be also wanted. The want would be
greater, but that there is, at present, a private school in the upper
part of the parish of Boyndie, so near the boundary of this parish
as to accommodate a part of the population of its middle and up*
per districts.
Literary Irutituiians. — A Literary Society was instituted in 1810,
by five boys (the most advanced of whom had only obtained the
standing of three sessions at College.) The institution originally
embraced two objects, — the formation of a library, and meetings for
delivery of essays and discussion of literary subjects. But the
latter object was, after a time, necessarily abandoned, from the
paucity of persons having resources for contributing to it. The
library now contains above 2000 volumes.
Connected with the Literary Society by a sort of federal union,
is the reading-room, where have been usually taken in five or six
of the principal quarterly and monthly periodicals, two daily Lon-
don, and some Edinburgh and provincial newspapers. Some dif-
ficulty, however, has been found of late in supporting the expense
of this establishment, and its continuance seems somewhat doubtful*
In 1828 was founded an institution for the cultivation of science^
and the discovery and encouragement of native talent. The in-
stitution has occasionally held meetings for scientific discussions;
but similar difficulties, as in the case of the Literary Society, have
been felt in carrying this part of its plan into complete effect*
Its conductors, however, have succeeded in collecting a museum of
natural history, antiquities, and curiosities, which would do no
discredit to ampler time and means, than have actually been en-
joyed by them, and which, it is believed, few, if any, collections
north of Edinburgh can equal. In particular, the collection of
shells, consisting of many thousand specimens of the rarest and
most beautiful kinds to be met with in Java, and throughout the
eastern Archipelago, are well deserving of notice. There is a
considerable variety of dresses, weapons, manufactures, and uten«*
sils of the natives of India and Australia ; many mineral and zoo*
logical specimens, coins, idols, &c. The institution also possesses
some valuable books; among others, the printed Public Records of
Great Britain, presented by Government; and, for scientific pur-
poses, they are furnished with a transit and clock, a six feet reflecting
telescope, together with an assortment of meteorological instruments
from the best London makers.
By the kindness of the magistrates, the t^'o large drawing-rooms
BANFF. 53
in tbe town*hou9e have been allowed for the accommodation of the
Literary Society and Scientific Institution.
The Established Church, Episcopal, Secession, and Independ*-
ent chapels, have each a small library belonging to it There is
also a trades' library, open to master, journeymen, and apprentice,
tradesmen. All these libraries are maintained by voluntary dona-*
tions, or subscriptions almost nominal The collection belonging
to the Independent chapel was begun in 1814, and contains 320
volumes. Here also there is a juvenile library of 364 volumes.
The other collections are smaller. The advantages to be derived
from these libraries, though not neglected, do not appear to be so
eagerly sought after as might be wished. Probably the means at
the disposal of the conductors will not always afford the selections
best adapted for the readers. *
Benevolent Institutions, — About the year 1755, or soon after, Dr
Alexander Strachan, physician in Banff, built a small house in the
low part of the town, and lef^ it, under the management of the ma-
gistrates and kirk-session, as a residence to four poor persons, be-
stowing, at the same time, a small sum of money and additional
space of ground, now jointly yielding (after payment of certain feu-
duties) an annual sum of Lb 1, Ss. 6d. applicable to the upholding
and repairs of the house.
By a will, dated at Bombay, 7th November 1769, Mr George
Smith, a native of the parish of Fordyce, in the county of Banff,
vested in the magistrates of Banff the management of such residue
of his estate as might arise out of cei;tain legacies bequeathed by
him to relatives of whose existence at the time he was uncertain ;
and which, after the lapse of five years, might remain unclaimed
by them : appointing the sum of L. 1000 to be applied to the en-
dowing of an infirmary in Banff or Fordyce ; L. 25 yearly to be
paid to the minister of Fordyce ; and L. 40 yearly to a school-
master, to educate, at Fordyce, ..as many boys (of the name of
Smith) as could be maintained, at the rate of L. 25 each, out of
the interest of the final residue of the estate. As the handiest way
of managing the affair of the itifirmary or hospital^ (for which
L. 1000 was held to be a rather slender provision,) the magistrates
formed the design of laying out a part of the town-house for a broth
or soup-kitchen to the poor, in consideration of which they resolv-
ed on applying the sum in question to the general expense of that
* There is a collection of books in the academy, but mostly so antiquated or in-
complete as to be of little use.
54 BANFFSHIRE.
structure ; — and this under the idea, it may be supposed, that thej
thereby, in effect, established an hospital for the admission and re-
lief of persons labouring under the disease of an empty belly. Pa-
tients of this class were accordingly, for a time, admitted, and dis-
missed relieved. These, however, were soon succeeded by others
of a different class, whose malady consisted in an inability to pay
the penalties in/Hcted by excise courts ; and, at present, the only
patient in the hospital is the Sheriff-clerk, whose complaint was
want of room in the apartments otherwise allotted to him. To
speak more plainly, the broth-kitchen became a prison, the prison
a writing-chamber or record office ; but the departure, in this in-
stance, from the testator's intentions, was more of chance or neces-
sity than of design ; and, as there is now an ample provision for an
infirmary otherwise, it needs not be regretted.* Besides the be-
quest for the hospital, however, the magistrates realized the sum
of L. 10,297, 16s. 6d. three per cent consols; and the yearly di-
vidends (L. 308, 18s. -8d.) thence arising, are duly expended ac-
cording to the directions of the will : nine boys, chosen by the ma-
gistrates, receiving maintenance and education for five years each,
in the manner specified.
On the 2d July 1799, Mr James Wilson of the island of Gre-
nada, directed, by will, ^^ the whole stock" (of his property, after
the death of certain liferenters nominated,) ^^ to be drawn from
the funds, and remitted to the magistrates of the bui^h of Banff,
North Britain, to be by them laid out as a charitable fund, in the
best manner possible, and to remain under the directions of the
acting magistrates from year to year," and without any more spe-
cific instructions whatever.
The last of the liferenters died only last year, and the magis-
trates have realized L.d561, 16s. Id. 3 per cents., and L. 2647
of cash, — which, however, is less than half the actual sum left ;
the remaining, and greater part, being lost by the failure of the
house in London to whom it was remitted. Every species of po-
verty and distress in the parish being already as well provided for,
otherwise, as can be beneficially done, it has been resolved to ap-
ply Mr Wilson's bequest, jointly with some funds from other
sources, to the purposes of education ; f and with this view, the
* In regard to this matter, the Commissioners on Municipal Corporations obseryct
that, " while the proceeding is not an example to be followed, it can hardly be oen.
sured."
f In the ease of Cassy's fund, afterwards mentioned, counsel were of opinion that
education fell cbarly within the oljjects of the bequest.
BANFF. 55
magistrates propose to erect a building * sufficient to embrace at
once accommodation for an infant school, for a free school on the
Madras system, and for class-rooms for the academy teachers,
(besides a library and museum ;) it being intended to admit the
more promising boys from the free schools to the benefit of a more
complete education in the classes of the academy.
By a will dated 8th February 1819, Mr Alexander Cassy, a
native of Banff, and then residing at Pentonville, near London,
left the residue of his estate, (after payment of certain legacies,)
in trust to the magistrates and town-council of Banff, — appointing
^^ the interest accruing therefrom to be expended half-yearly, and
every half-year, towards the support of poor, aged^ and infirm per-
sons, of both sexes, incapable of maintaining themselves by labour,
born within the precincts of the said burgh, and helpless orphans,
and other deserted children of both sexes, born as before, until
they attain the age when they may be deemed capable of provid-
ing for themselves. And I hereby declare it to be my desire, that
those who become objects of this charity, shall be selected at the
discretion of the majority of the aforesaid town-council, always
giving the preference to the most necessitous." These are the
whole directions contained in the will as to the mode of bestowing
the charity ; but the magistrates, previously to entering on the
administration of the funds, procured, for their more specific direc-
tion, an opinion of counsel, by which they have since been guid-
ed in the selection of cases for relief.
Under the provisions of this will, the annual sum of L. 300, be-
ing the dividends upon L. 10,000, 3 per cent, consols, fell, in the
year 1824, to the disposal of the magistrates. A farther sum of
Lw 7000, 3 per cents., together with the value of a house at Pen-
tonville, will fall in on the demise of certain liferenters named in
the will.
The average number of aged and infirm persons receiving re«*
lief from this fund since July 1824, is 59 ; smallest number at
one time, 55 ; greatest, 66. The average number of families of
children (of one to six in each family,) 28 ; smallest number, 24 ;
* A diaste and classic design, (furnished by Mr W. Robertson of Elgin, archi-
tect*) has already been adopted by the trustees. The eastern fii^ade is designed to
be 154 feet lon^, and to consist of a portico in the centre, in the Grecian Ionic style,
with side buildings and two protruding wings at the extremes, adorned with pilasters
and entablatures in the same taste. The situation of the building on the ascent on the
south-west of the town will be such as to give it every advantage, particularly when
seen, from the road that approaches from the south, across the river, anderer the trees
environing Duff* House park.
56 ' BANFFSHIRE.
greatest, 35. Average of both classes, 87-; smallest, 82 ; greatest
96. The average payment at last distribution (to each old per-
son or young family,) was at the rate of L. 2, 15s. per annum ; the
highest being L.4, 10s.; lowest, L. 1. L. 10 per annum is paid
to the teacher of Pirie's school for instructing boys, and L. 6 to
the teacher of the female charity school for instructing girls on
the bounty.
By a will dated 7th May 1825, Miss Elizabeth Wilson, an un-
married female residing in Banff, pursuing an intention that had
been mutually formed between her and her deceased brother, Mr
John Wilson, baker there, bequeathed, to certain official and pri-
vate trustees, the whole heritable and moveable property of which
she should die possessed, with directions to apply the yearly produce
of the same, (with immaterial deductions,) in equal annuities, to six
tradesmen and six maiden women of the age of fifty years or upwards,
and who have resided in Banff twenty years. The will also directs that
L. 2 yearly should be laid out in the purchase of books (selected by
the minister) for the use of the annuitants ; each of whom is far-
ther to receive, on appointment, a Bible and book of devotion.
Annuitants are named by a majority of the trustees. The ave-
rage amount paid to each hitherto has been L. 9 or L. 10 per an-
num.
Alexander Chalmers, Esq. of Cluny, who died last year, lefl a
settlement, jointly executed by himself and spouse, by which he
appointed the whole of his heritable and moveable property (sub-
ject to certain legacies and annuities, and to Mrs Chalmers's life-
rent,) to be vested in trustees, for the ** founding, erection, and
endowment of an hospital and free dispensary of medicines,"
to be called ^* Chalmers's Hospital," — '< for the support, mainte-
nance, cure, and relief of destitute sick paupers, lunatics, and
other diseased and poor infirm persons of both sexes, born, domi-
ciliated, and resident in any town or parish of the said county of
Banff, the inhabitants whereof shall make collections (for the in-
stitution) at their respective parish churches," &c« — the site of
Mr Chalmers's residence in the sea-town of Banff being at the
same time assigned as that of the hospital to be erected. The
trustees named for the management of this bequest are the Lord
Lieutenant of the County ; Member for the County ; Sheriffs-
depute and substitute ; Provost ; Ministers of Banff, Gamrie, and
Marnoch ; President of Society of Solicitors, and Peter and John
A. Cameron, Esqs. — three a quorum.
BANFF. 57
The whole value of heritable and moveable property which will
eventually be available for this charity is supposed not to fall
short of L. 40,000.
A Female Clothing Society has been for some years establish-
ed, which expends about L. 13 annually, (raised by subscription
among members and others,) in providing clothes and fuel to poor
persons. There are besides one or two annual distributions of
coals in the winter season, from bequests made by benevolent in-
dividuals.
Provident Jnstitutiatis. — The friendly societies which have had.
their regulations sanctioned under the new act, are, Solomon's
Lodge of Gardeners, instituted in April 1778; Adam's Lodge of
Gardeners, and the Mason's Operative Lodge. These, with St
Andrew's Mason Lodge, are all the friendly societies (unless the
trades' incorporations, whose objects are similar, may be reckoned
such,*) existing in the parish. The Graystone Friendly Society
(established in 1792;) the Ploughman's (1801;) the Sailors'
(1813;) and some more of later birth, have been dissolved within
the last few years. Few of the members of them were inclined
to take the trouble of conforming to the new act, — as few (it is
suspected) averse to a present division of their funds. All these
institutions, however, have gradually been suffering decay. In
this, as in most other things, there is a fashion ; and here the
fashion has declined. Indeed, such societies, are seldom entered
so much with prudential objects in view, as for purposes of amuse-
ment and good fellowship. It is remarked, too, that these associa-
tions were never conducted upon sound principles, — the allowances
being graduated, not according to a scientific calculation of the
average proportion between contributions and claims, but in the
ratio of the absolute number of contributors. The allowances
granted at present by any of these societies are inconsiderable.
To the principle of friendly societies the objection has been
made, that they bear, in some respects, too near an alliance to a
game of chances ; and that each person, trusting too much to the
benefit he himself may enjoy at the expense of others, is thereby
led to neglect sounder precautions against future necessity. From
this objection, it is added, savings banks are free : here each man
gets just his own savings, and hence, as alleged, the superiority of
the savings banks over friendly societies. But though some, on
* At Uie present moment (June 1836,) the trades* incorporations are in the course
of being broken up, and the funds dlTided.
58 BANFFSHIRE.
these grounds, prefer the principle of savings banks, still friendly
societies seem generally to be reckoned highly beneficial in their
nature, — supposing their management such as to let their operation
have fair play.
The Banff Savings Bank was established in 1815. For the
last six years, the number of contributors, with the amount de-
posited by them, has been as follows, viz.
Tears,
No.
of Contributort.
Amount depotUed,
1880.
295
L.2477 12 4
1831,
288
2424 8 4
1832,
285 .
2347 9 1
1833,
274
2393 U 10
I&34,
297
2629 15 3
1835,
304
2776 15 8
The amount of funds from this bank in the hands of the Com-
mercial Bank of Scotland is about L. 2900. The investments are
generally made by men and women servants from Banff and neigh-
bouring parishes.
Pauperism, — The poor of the parish are provided for, partly
from the funds of the kirk-session, partly by an annual subscription
among the inhabitants.
Besides the ordinary church collections, the kirk-session draws
annually in rents and interest the sum of L. 2d, 9s. 4d.
A certain number of poor persons in the parish receive, direct-
ly from the kirk-session, a regular weekly or quarterly allowance,
at the rate of from 5s. to L. 2, 12s. a-year each.
The kirk-session has a farther expenditure for extraordinary
aids, and for allowances to persons residing out of the parish, but
who have acquired a claim to relief by former residence.
The affairs of the remaining poor of the parish are managed
by a committee chosen annually by the subscribers to the fund,
and which is divided into sub-committees for the several districts.
Along with the amount of the subscriptions, and occasional
windfalls, the committee have L. 100 annually placed at their dis-
posal by the kirk-session.
Cases for relief are selected, and the rates to each individual
fixed, by the committee, which meets twice a-year. The allow-
ances are, for the most part, paid weekly, and range from 6d. to Is.
6d. to each person, — a few quarterly from 2s. 6d. to 10s.
The following table presents a view of all the particulars now
mentioned for the last five years :
BANFF. 59
tJVb. ofp€r»ona receiving ordinarjf aUowancet, •« 4
I *• Frowi ArtrAr union, g ,^ g ^ ^ ajk
5.8" MJ 'a ^§
a II II I ^^ h I 11 II
^ O g CQ-i S || ^1. ^ -^1 ^li
1831, L.112 L.101 )2 4 96 Tli lOdT" lTq
1692, 111 148 11 4 04 109 9icL 6
183% 111 103 11 4 91 106 9^d. 10
1&S4,* 160 113 12 5 95 112 9^d. 10
1835^ 170 116 18 5 98 121 9d. 20
Average of
6 years, L.1S3 L.116 13 4 95 112 9(d. L.11
The system now described was first adopted in 1817, chiefly with
a view to the suppression of common street begging, an end which
it has effectually enough answered, — though by no means so as to
supersede the necessity for private almsgiving, and occasional col-
lections for special cases of distress; and, taken generally, as a plan
of pauper management, its operation appears to have been, on the
whole, satisfactory.
It is, however, a circumstance well worth remark, that an addi-
tional annual expenditure since the year 18*24 of nearly L. 300
(from Cassie's bounty, as already described,) has had so far from
a proportional effect in lessening the amount required to be raised
otherwise.f Few or none, indeed, of the persons on the general
poor's fund are those who are receiving, at the same time, an al-
lowance from Cassie's bequest But the latter class of persons,
being only the next above the former, and that from which the ranks
of the regular poor may be supposed to be filled, — the two funds
may, in estimating the effect of an increased provision for the poor,
be set down as one. It would, of course, be an error to say that
Cassie's bounty has not been productive of benefit : it must, to its
extent, have saved distress or privation that would have been other-
wise felt : but an additional proof has been afforded by it, in the
present instance — if, indeed, experience were needed to prove what
may be pronounced before hand — that an increase of funds for the
maintenance of the poor will not lessen the nxanber of the poor.
* For the last two years tLerehave generally been three services in the church each
)Bunday> and a resident heritor's contribution to the collections.
t The average sum expended by the Poors* Committee for eight years, 1817-24,
was L.327; number of poor, 156; average sum for five years, 1831-35, L. 216 ; num-
ber, 95 ; making only a reduction of L. 11 1 on the sum, 61 on the number. It is be*
lieved, too, that it is not so much a lessening of the demand as of the supply that oc-
casions even this differed'ee— several families who were liberal contributors having
died away or removed.
60 BANPFSHrRE.
Applications for assistance from charitable funds are stated to be
increasing in frequency in the parish ; and it seems to be the opi-
nion of all who have the means of observing, that feelings of dis-
inclination to resort to such assistance are fast wearing off. There
is good reason for suspecting, besides, that the existence of so
many charitable institutions in the parish has been the means of
attracting poor persons to come from & distance to settle in it.
Prison. — The number of prisoners confined in J^anff jail for
three years has been as follows :
1832. I8;)d. 1884.
Debtors,
22
17
9
Criminals,
15
1«
45
Revenue offenders,
5
4
2
Total each year, 42 37 56
Looking to the strength of the walls of the prison, the solidity
of Its window gratings, and the ponderous iron door which shuts in
its main passage, one would scarcely suppose a prisoner could have
much chance of escape; yet, in some instances, escapes have
been made from it, and in others, attempts to escape have only
been discovered when almost on the point of success. — Some years
ago, a few Crown debtors were confined for enormous penalties,
incurred for contravention of the excise laws ; and on this occasion,
so little dependence were the inhabitants disposed to place in the
power of walls or bolts to retain the captives, that, having the fear
of the Exchequer before their eyes (it being understood that the
town would be liable for payment of the penalties if the prisoners
escaped,) they turned out, every night, in companies of four or six
by rotation, to guard the doors and windows of the prison. Still
the prison may be said to be well secured. It is also entirely fire-
proof. But it is decidedly deficient in accommodation. There
are only two apartments for the reception of civil prisoners, each
19 feet square ; and it is understood that a burgess of the town,
if confined in one of these, has the power to exclude from it all
others who may not possess that happy distinction. Unfortunate*
ly, he cannot exclude them from the prison altogether. Instances
have occurred in which ten or twelve persons have been huddled
together, day and night, in one of these apartments, or with only
the additioncd accommodation of the narrow passage into which
the apartments open. There are frequently six or eight* persons
in one of them. The situation of the prison is airy enough,
BANFF. 61
but there is no court-yard to which the prisoners have access.
There are» besides the civil prisons, two cells for criminals. In
these there are no fire-places ; and, even in the depth of winter,
the wretched inmate has nothing furnished him but a bed-stead.
Light and air are admitted through a narrow slit in the wall, which,
till lately, was unglazed. So unfit, however, have these dungeons
been conceived to be, for the reception of any human being, that
criminals have, in fact, necessarily been allowed to encroach on the
accommodation of the debtors. These prisons are on the second
story. On the ground floor is a pretty large vault, with windows
opening into a narrow court, in which female prisoners are gene-
rally lodged together, without respect to the cause of their deten-
tion. There is also, on the ground floor, a dungeon, (lately con-
structed) which, assuming that the ofiice of a dungeon is to make
human existence wretched, seems to want nothing that can con-
tribute to such a purpose, except the being fairly under ground.
It is entirely in the interior of the building, and cut off from all
direct communication with external light or air, — the small grat-
ing in the door opening only into a half-dark passage. This is
said to be intended only for the temporary reception of persons
disturbing the public peace by brutal drunkenness or other outra-
geous behaviour. It does not appear, that until within these few
months, any regular means were employed for preserving cleanli-
ness, either as regards the apartments and furniture, or the per-
sons and dress of the prisoners, (except that water was carried in-
to them by the jailors.)
The jail is entirely under the government or superintendence of
the magistrates. Criminals are allowed 8d. a-day, paid by the
county, before conviction ; by the burgh, after it. Debtors without
other means of subsistence receive an aliment from the imprison-
ing creditor, the amount of which is fixed by the magistrates. It
varies generally from 8d. to 2s. 6d. per day.
Fairs* — The town is allowed by charters to hold seven or eight
fairs or markets yearly, but only four are held ; and of these but
one (Brandon fair, at Whitsunday,) is of any magnitude. This, as
well as the Martinmas and Lammas, are feeing markets. There
are no cattle-markets.
Inns and Alehouses. — There are 88 inns or shops licensed for
the sale of ale and spirits,— all within the liberties of the buigfa.
The general opinion seems to be, that the number of such houses
adds to the prevalence of tippling, and undoubtedly thb vice prc«
62 BANFFSHIRE.
vails in the town to a considerable extent. But while some sup~
pose that habits of drinking have their origin in causes which would
work alike, independently of the greater or smaller number of li-
censed houses, others, admitting the evil of licensing a house, but
from necessity, in a district where there is yet no other, maintain
that a small number of taverns or alehouses in a neighbourhood
where there must be some^ has a direct tendency to increase dis-
sipation, from the greater number of visitors who must necessarily
resort to one place, and the consequent more frequent and easy for-
mation of drinking parties.
A strong belief seems to be generally entertained of the perni-
cious effects of spirit-shops, as distinct from inns or taverns, in so
much as the former (more especially when furnishing, as some of
them do, a private room for tippling,) afford opportunities and temp-
tations to many persons who would be averse to be seen frequent-
ing the tavern.
Fuel — Coals; but as" there is a peat-moss at the inland extre-
mity of the parish, peats are, especially in its vicinity, more or less
used. The average price of coals (mostly from Sunderland) is
about Is. O^d. per barrel of 2^ imperial bushels. Carriage in the
town about Id. per barrel more. Peats, in the town, cost from 28«
to ds. per load, according to the size of the cart.
Comparative State,
The chief differences that have occurred in regard to the state
and circumstances of the parish since the last Statistical Ac*
count was drawn up, have been sufficiently indicated under the
different heads comprehended in the present report The ex-
tension of cultivation, and the use of an improved mode of hus-
bandry, — the establishment of the herring fishery, — the increase
of the corn exports, and introduction of the system of exporting live
cattle, — the formation of turnpike roads, and multiplication and
improvement of the means of communication, — the discontinuance
of smuggling, — the expensive, though not quite efficient, additions
to the harbour, — the establishment of new congregations and places
of worship, — the institution of libraries, — the valuable bequests and
endowments made to the town, — the increased conveniences from
gas lights, baths, and the like — may just be referred to as among
the most striking alterations. In regard to moral and social changes,
there is not much to remark. Like all other places in the king-
dom, the town partook of the fictitious and temporary prosperity
arising from the anticipations of the national revenue made during
DESKFORD. 63
the war ; and^ like all other places, when the product of these an-
ticipations was once expended, and the permanent burden they en-
tailed began to be felt, it suffered from the transition. In the first
period, there was a general start upwards of every rank in society,
each occupying the place of the one next above it. The revulsion
was necessarily in proportion. Numerous failures among the mer-
chants and tradesmen took place after the peace ; and no little
difficulty was sustained by others, whose circumstances were not so
necessarily made apparent. Perhaps the increased facilities of
bank accommodation which began to be afforded about that time,
augmented the evil. But the worst is now past ; matters have re-
turned to their natural level ; and nothing seems wanting, but the
continuance of foreign and domestic tranquillity, to enable the com-
munity to realize as much prosperity as, under national and local
circumstances hardly admitting of alteration, the human condition
is usually known to allow.
Jtdy 1836.
PARISH OF DESKFORD.
PAESBYTERY OF FORDYCE, AND SYNOD OF ABERDEEN.
THE REV. GEORGE INNES, MINISTER.
I. — Topography and Natural History.
Name. — The present name of this parish, there is reason to be*
lieve, is the only name which it has borne since its erection ; and
is supposed to have reference to its situation and climate with re-
gard to CuUen, with which it has, of all places, the most intercourse.
Deskford lies to the south of Cullen, and being farther from the
coast, the climate is naturally colder than that of Cullen ; hence,
the name Deskford has been derived from Chess fare^ which sig-
ni6es ^^ a cold place to the southward."*
Extent and Boundaries. — The length of this parish is rather
more than 5 miles, and its breadth somewhat above 3. It is bound-
ed, on the south, by Grange ; on the west, by Rathven ; on the
* Fordyce, from which Deskford was probably disjoioedi is said to have the same
etymology- The climate of the greater part of both is similar, and the name, (invert*
ing the syllables ) is also similar.
64 BANFFSHIRE«
north, by CuUen, or that part of Rathven annexed quoad sacra to
Cullen; and on the east, by Fordyce.
Topographical Appearances, — The form of the parish is nearly
that of a parallelogram. It is intersected by a small stream called
the burn of Deskford, which rises in the adjoining parish of Grange,
and is increased in its course through Deskford by many stream-
lets from the rising grounds on each side of it, running down small
glens or ravines, beautifully fringed with natural wood on each side
of them, as is the bum or main stream into which they run. So
that Deskford forms one of the most beautiful little straths in the
whole country.
The impetuosity of the little streams in thaws or floods, rolling
and bounding down their steep and rocky channels, and of the
burn, which is then swelled into a large size, sweeping majestical-
ly along, is grand and striking. There is, as may be supposed, a
variety of small waterfalls ; and there is one called the Linn, which
is singularly beautiful. The water is hemmed within a very nar-
row channel, in the deep cleft of a great rock, the entrance of
which it has beautifully scooped and polished; and it throws itself at
several successive bounds to a depth of nearly thirty feet. The
scenery around is exceedingly romantic and beautiful.
The high ground on the east side of the strath, at its south or
upper end, is partly planted with larch and common fir. It is cal-
led the Green-hill. That on the west or opposite side is of a mossy
nature, and is generally covered with heath, except small patches
here and there, which have been cultivated, the number and ex-
tent of which are gradually increasing.* At the north or lower
end of the strath, the ground is cultivated on the east side to the
very top of the hill ; and on the west or opposite side it is covered
with fir and other thriving wood. The low ground, throughout the
whole length of the strath, is almost wholly cultivated, except
where the precipitous banks of the burns or ravines prevent it But
these being covered with natural wood, add much to the variety
and beauty of the scenery.
Climate. — The climate is rather cold and wet. But, if we may
judge from the general health and longevity of the inhabitants,
it cannot be considered as peculiarly unwholesome. And even its
* These patches are cultivated by smaU tenants, to whom the proprietor lets the
ground in lots of from eight to twelve or twenty acres, for seven years, rent free ; and
after that, for Is. or Is. 4d. per acre for a period of nineteen years, — after whioh the
land is. let for sueh moderate tent as it is judged worth.
3
DESKFORD. 65
humidity must be undergoing a favourable change, from the drain*
ing and cultivation which are carried on.
Geology and Mineralogy. — The general soil of the parish, in
the lower parts of it, is black loam upon a hard clay bottom. In
the higher grounds, the soil is mossy, upon a hard impervious bot-
tom of clay and gravel mixed. This renders draining, in almost
all parts of the parish, of the greatest necessity and importance,
and it has of late been much resorted to, and with much advan-
tage.
There is in the parish an excellent quariy of primitive limestone,
The lime is of very superior fineness and strength. Large quanti-
ties of it are prepared by the tenantry, partly for sale, and partly
for their own use in agriculture and in building.
There is, likewise, an extensive moss in the parish, from which
the inhabitants are supplied with peat and turf, and from which they
supply Cullen and some of the adjoining villages upon the coast
The parish, in so far as can be ascertained from the channels
and banks of the burns and ravines, and other openings which have
made, seems to rest chiefly upon strata of mica-slate, nearly verti-
cal. Fragments of quartz are frequently found imbedded in the
slate, but never to any considerable size. There is much reason
to think that all this part of the country has, at some remote pe-
riod, been under water, as almost all the higher grounds, upon par-
ing off a surface coat of vegetable mould, which is of no great
depth, except where the moss has much accumulated, are found to
consist of gravel, or clay and gravel mixed.
Botany, — There is not, as far as the writer knows, any rare spe-
cies of plants found in the parish. The natural wood, which grows
along the sides of the burn and smaller streams, is chiefly alder,
hazel, gean, and birch. The planted wood is common fir, a small
proportion of larch, and a still smaller of ash, beech, and oak, the
whole of which thrive sufficiently well in most of the places where
they have been tried. There are, in an orchard adjoining to the
church, some very fine large ashes measuring from eight to twelve
feet'^in circumference. One of them is of the latter dimensions, in
girth, at the height of ten feet from the ground. But of the two trees
called St John's, and young St John's, commemorated in the former
Statistical Account, the grandeur is now entirely gone. The lat-
ter was, by an act of presumption and bad taste, and without autho-
rity from the Noble proprietor or his factor, cut down upwards of
twenty years ago ; and of the former, nothing now remains but a
BANFF. E
66 BANFFSHIRE.
very small part of the trunk, hollowed, scathed and withered, send-
ing forth only one small solitary green, branch, produced apparently
since the former wide-spreading boughs gave way, and likely soon
also to wither and disappear as they have done. The very fine
holly, also commemorated in that Account, which consisted of a
trunk about eight feet in circumference, separating into two beau-
tiful straight stems at about eight feet from the ground, has now only
one of these stems standing ; and that stem is also in a very fragile
state, from pervading and consuming rot, which first disparted the
stems to the very ground, then rendered one of them incapable of
standing, and will soon do the same to the other. Thus the principal
ornaments of this delightful spot, once so abundant in excellent fruit
as well as in stately trees, are now either entirely gone, or are fast
hastening to decay. There are, however, besides the ashes already
mentioned, in a growing state, which may in time perhaps be not
inferior to their sires, — a holly bush, one of the stems of which is 5^
feet in circumference ; and a hawthorn tree, 4^ feet in circumfe-
rence. There is likewise, in another part of the parish somewhat
lower down, also by the burn side, a hawthorn tree of much larger
dimensions. It is 8^ feet round at the height of 6^ feet from the
ground, and its wide-spreading umbrageous top, when richly co-
vered with flourish or with berries, is singularly striking and beau-
tiful.
II. — Civil History.
This parish has long been the property of the Earls of Findla-
ter and Seafield. The date of its erection into a parish, the writer
has no means of ascertaining.
Parochial Registers. — There are parochial registers as far back
as 1669 : and the register of births and marriages is continuous
from that time to the present. There is no record of the pro-
ceedings of the kirk-session earlier than 1684. The record con-
tinues to 1687. There is then a blank till 1694, from which time
the record seems to have been kept with tolerable accuracy till
1731, when there is another blank till 1734. This is attributed
to the carelessness of the then session-clerk, who had left only *^ a
few confused scraps, which nobody could connect"
Antiquities. — There was found, about twenty years ago, on the
confines of a farm called Liechestown, the resemblance of a swine's
head in brass, of the ordinary size, with a wooden tongue moveable
by springs. It had also eyes, and the resemblance in every respect
was wonderfully exact. It was found at a depth of about six feet, in a
DESKFORD« 67
mossy and knolly piece of ground upon a bed of clay. The ground
abounded with hazel-nuts, which looked entire, but, upon being open-
ed, were found empty. This antique curiosity is now in possession
of the Banff Institution, to which it was presented by the Honour-
able Colonel Grant, to whom it was given by the tenant who
found it on his farm. The place where it was found is close by
the confines of another farm, called Inalterie, which is supposed
to mean the place of the altar, and where there are the remains of a
very old strong massive building, the nature of which cannot now be
ascertained, and respecting which there is no tradition. In one part of
this building, there is a deep circular hole, about the diameter of an
ordinary draw-well, inclosed by a wall of masonry, rising to a consi-
derable height in the building. This hole is now filled up with
rubbish to a level with the surface of the ground. What had been
the original purpose of it cannot now be ascertained. Perhaps it
had been intended as a ^' dry pit" for the solitary confinement of
offending individuals. Close to it, there is a vault, on the top of
which the tenant has now his kail-yard. Some years ago, an at-
tempt was made to explore this vault, A stair was found leading
down to it. A heavy rain, however, coming on at the time, and
filling the place ynth water, the work was interrupted, and has
never been resumed. Whether this ruin be that of a baronial or
ecclesiastical edifice, it is not perhaps now possible to determine ;
though the name Inalterie, and the artificial head already men-
tioned, which was probably contrived for some purpose of impos-
ture, or '^ lying wonder,'' would rather incline us to suppose it to
be the ruin of some ecclesiastical building, erected in those remote
ages, when ignorance, superstition, imposture, and tyranny were
so prevalent
In the immediate vicinity of this ruin, there was, till lately, a
conical artificial eminence, called the Law Hillock, and supposed
to have been at one time the seat from which justice was dis-
tributed. It is now demolished, the tenant having found the stones,
of which it chiefly consisted, very convenient for the building of his
offices ; a purpose to which the stones of the adjoining ruin re-
fused to be subservient, obstinately resisting every effort made to
separate them.
There is also on the other side of the burn of Deskford, within
view of the former, and about half a mile from it, another hillock,
rising to the height of 20 feet, with regularly sloping sides, and
flat upon the top, — which is of an elliptical shape, about 30 feet by
68 BANFFSHIRE.
18 feet It is surrounded at the base by a ditch, one part of which
forms the bed of a small stream which runs past it, and is called
the Ha' burn, as the hillock is called the Ha' hillock, and is said also
to have been a hall of law or justice. In a fine day, it would still be
a most convenient and delightful place for such a purpose — incom*
parably preferable to a close and crowded court-house. There is
a gateway over the ditch, by which suitors could approach. There
is sufficient room in the area on the top, for the court, and a mo-
derate share of witnesses on both sides, while the assembled multi-*
tudes below would be completely under the eye of the authorities
above.
There is likewise close to the church, the ruin of an old tower
or castle, called the Tower of Deskford, which had been the fa-
mily residence of the chief proprietor in the^parish. The south
wall of this old building and the north wall of the church are in
immediate contact, and there is reason to think, that there had
been a door of communication between the two, and that the church
had been the family chapel, at the same time that it aflforded ac->
commodation for the people of the surrounding district, when as-
sembled together for religious worship. This tower was, till lately,
a very prominent and interesting feature in the scenery ; but, owing
to the masonry having got into so loose and incohesive a state, as
to occasion danger of its being blown down, and overwhelming the
church, which it greatly overtopped, it was some years ago pulled
down. * — Of the Castle of Skeith, mentioned in the former Sta-
tistical Account as a striking ruin, there is now no vestige. — The
church is a very ancient building, and was evidently erected before
the Reformation. It contains accommodations not now necessary in
parochial churches — as recesses in the walls behind the doors for
the vessels with holv water. It is said to have been dedicated to
St John. Beside it, is St John's well, the spring or stream supply-
ing which issues almost as it were from beneath the church. Close
to St John's well is the once stately tree, dedicated to the same
saint, which has been already mentioned, and of which so small a
iragment is all that now remains.
Modern BuiJdingi. — There is no modern or other building of
any note in the parish. There are two meal mills, one of them
* The apprehension of this injury to the church was excited by two immense mas-
ses of the same building in another part having iUlen down, one iSbov^ the other.
Had these two masses fallen together in one continuous sweep, they would have ine-
vitably crushed a small house quite near with its poor inhabitants. This hint was
not to be negleoted, and) upon examination of the part acQoining to the church, it was
found little more secure.
DESKFORD. 69
with a kiln and barley mill attached to it, and there are eight
thrashing-mills, all driven by water. There was, till lately, the
machinery of a bleachfield worked also by the same power.
III. — Population.
The ancient state of the population previous to the return made
to Dr Webster, when its amount was 940, there are no means of as-
certaining. Between the date of that return and of the former Statist
tical Account, a period of about forty years, there appears to have
been a decrease of 188, and between that and the census of 1811
there appears to have been a further decrease of 118, owing, in
both cases, «most probably, to the diminution of the number of
crofters and subtendnts. Since the census of 1811, there has been
a gradual increase, occasioned, no doubt, in some degree, by the
encouragement given to settlers in the uncultivated parts of the
parish, near the moss.
In IBM the population was 634
1821, . . 693
1831, . . 828
The yearly average of marriages for the last seven years is 4|,
and of births 23. There is no register of burials kept.
The average number of persons undm* 15 years of age is 330
betwixt 15 and 30 . 143
so and 50 .187
50 and 70 . 117
upwards of 70 51
The number of families in the parish, . . . 194
chiefly employed in agriculture, . 1 72
in trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, 17
There is no family of rank or of independent fortune, and there
is no landed proprietor, residing in the parish. The number of
unmarried men, bachelors and widowers upwards of 50 years of
age, is 8 ; and of unmarried women upwards of 45, 26. The ave-
rage number of children in each family is 4^. There are 2 persons
in the parish occasionally insane ; 3 rather in a fatuous state, and
till within these few months there was one very aged female blind,
who died in the ninety-first year of her age.
Character^ Sfc, of the People. — The people are in general healthy.
There are many instances of longevity.* Their habits are sober
and industrious, with few exceptions. They live very plainly, and,
* There are various aged females on the verge of ninety,— and one ninety-six, who woe
till within these two years in the habit of attending church, though she had moie than
a mile of very rough ground (not road,) to walk to it, with ditches in her way, and
the bum to cross either on stepping-stones or on a plank. A man died last winter
' aged ninety-seven. The elder, commemorated in the former Statistical Account as the
f and wbicb at differeiit points descends ak>ng the declivity of
tbd mountaiDy eoaneding itself with the mosses surrounding its
base.
II.— Civil History*
There is a ebarter granted by Alexander 11. in 1242, describ-
ing tbe boandaries of the estate of Park, in the possession of Lieu-
tenant-Colonel Gordon^ who is sole proprietor of the parish. A
plan of tbe whole parish was made in 1782 for the use of the pro-
prietor.
Parochial Registers* — Tbe parochial registers commence in
1704; and have been kept regularly from that date.
Endtieni Mm.'-^The on)y person of eminence as a literary cha-
ficter which this parish bas produced, is Mr Walter Goodall, au-
thor of a Defence of Queen Mary.
Buildinffi*-^^A neat commodious cfaorch was built in 1805, ca-
pable of holding between 400 and 500 persons ; the manse in
1796; and considerable additions were made in 1839 to the man-
sion-house of Park, which is a large handsome-looking building.
III. — Population.
The population in 1805 was 510
1811 521
1821 506
1831 651
The cause of the increase has been the improvement of waste
knds. There is but one yillage, — where there is a population at
present of 60 ; and in the country part there is a population of
599« The average number of births for the last seven years is 15 ;
of marriages, 6. The number of persons under fifteen is 279 : be-
twixt fifteen and thirty, 131 ; betwixt thirty and fifty, 148; betwixt
fifty and seventy, 77 ; upwards of seventy, 22. The family of the
proprietor resides in the parish. Tbe unmarried women upwards
of fifty are 3; and there are 1 widower and 4 unmarried women
upwards of forty-five.
The nnmber of fttmiliei in tbe perisb, . • . _ 140
chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 86
in trade, manafkctures, and handicraft, 28
IV. — iNrntTSTRY.
-^ M »»i#»
9^^0i0rim0m00'm^mm
MMtfWMMWfWM^
Elaphus? (red-Kieer)
Furo
▼ulgaria.
Stnx flammea
Turdufl musicus
viadvoms
Merula
Birds.
^tmm^mm^m
Cortus frugi]«gui
MotaciUa uba
. boarula
m0mm0i^0mmmtm
Sylvia Locustella
»w>«».»— melaxiocephala
Saxicola (Enantbe
Emberiaa citrinella
Anthas Richardi
Panismijor
•«*«•••>•«
«atar
#1MVW«r*»»ii»>.>^..^..^^..- glaucus
.,„-,. ^....^ minus
Spargula arvensja
Po»
Scabiosa succisa
ScirpS
Geranium molle
Alopecuri
Senecio vulgaris
Anthoxanthum odoratum
Orobus tuberosus
Erica vulgaris
Mentha arvensis
^>.,.., tetralix
Sinapis arvensis
Chrysanthemum leucanthemum
VioUtrieokMr
Ulex EuropsBus
Spartium scoparium
Prunella vulgaris
Airs
Hyperica
86 BANFFSHIRE.
Tlilaspi borsa-pastoris Stellaria graminea
Sonchus arvcnsis >^.»^» «u ligino8a
Thymus gerpylluin Anemone nemorosa
Tormentilla erecta Primula veris
Stellaria media Oxalis acetosella
- ■■ -J ,jjrr,^^^*^^
ployed for building are the stones already mentioned as commoD»
Sometimes, however, granite and red sandstone are used, which
are brought from the neighbouring parishes :
III.-— Population.
In 1 755, %h% popuUtion waa, according to Dr Webster's tablef, 607
17ft2, • 577
1768, ....... 613
1794, GOO
1811, .... • .828
1821, 750
loot, •....«, odO
Number of fiunilies, .... 166
engaged in agriculture, . 77
in trade, . 18
of independence, 2
ofmales, ..... 378
of females, .... 442
During the last three years, there were 12 illegitmate births in the
parish, — ^3 of which were followed by the nmrriage of the parents.
IV. — Industry.
AffricuUure and Sural Economy^^^There are in the parish.
In a state of cultivation, . 8617 acres.
Waste or pasture land, . 1055
Reclaimable with profit, 1129
Plantotions, . 1483
Total, 7234
Most of the Scotch firs, which form a considerable proportion
of those plantations, have been planted. Besides these, we have
the spruce fir, the larch, the ash, and the oak, all of which thrive
well, and some in a superior degree. The elm, the plane, the
beech, the horse^hestnut, and the lime, are found in the policies
of Forglen House.
Rent of hand. — The average rent of land per acre is 16s. A
year's grazing for a cow or ox costs L. 5, for a sheep, L. 1.
FORGLEN. 89
Bate of JVaffes^^^Wrlght^ receiTe about lis. and masons 1^
per week ; tailors 2s. per day. A ploughman's wages for a year are
L, 11; a woman's wages L.5. In 1795, according to the former
Statistical Account, the fee of a &rm— -a circumstance
which is to be accounted for, by the difference in the price of pro-
visions, the severity of the season, and the occasional opening up
of unexpected resources. The large sum spent in 1832 was ow*
ing to the prevalence of cholera in the country, when, to prevent
the parish being visited by it, so &r as human means could effect
this^ the session made large distributions of clothing. There was
not a case of that vinilent disease in the parish.
The table which follows exhibits the time when the paupers now
receiving assistance were taken upon the roll :
A
1803
H
1819
O
1831
B
1814
I
1820
P
1831
C
1815
J
1820
Q
1831
D
1817
K
1822
R
1833
£
1817
L
1822
S
1833
F
1817
M
1822
G
1818
N
1830
In this list, all except one are females. The exception is a
young man unable to gain a livelihood by a disease which seems
incurable. So little is now given for the work of aged females.
94 BANFFSHIRE.
that when they have become incapable of hard labour, they are
altogether thrown upon the kindness of friends and the funds of
the parish.
From various circumstances, there is no one who is able and
willing to work, who does not find employment. The average sum
received by each pauper, yearly, is L. 2, 18s. The amount of
contributions for the relief of the poor in 1831 was, from collections
at the church, Lw 64, 6s. 8d. ; from legacies, L. 12, 7s. lOd. ; from^
interest of L. 75 mortified money. Lb 3, 15s» ; .totals L. 80, 9s. 6d;
Library, — There is a parish library, well selected, oompoeed of
works on religious and general subjects ; and it is gratifying to be
able to state, that, of late, increased anxiety has been shewn to take
advantage of it
Savings Bank. — A savings bank was established in 1816. Tak-
ing a year at random, there was deposited the sum of L. 195,
19s. 4d. ; there was withdrawn, the same year, the sum of L. 158,
8s. 6d. Investments were for the most part made by servants.
Transactions were, for several years, suspended on account of the
failure of the chief depository. This was the case when the wri-
ter of this account entered on the charge of the parish in the year
1831. Although desirous of commencing a new bank, he found
the confidence in these institutions so shaken by what had befallen
the former, that he saw it was in vain to attempt it, at least for
some time. However, having taken frequent opportunities of ex-
plaining their importance, and shown that the late mishap was al-
together apart from the principles of the bank, and entirely acci-
dental, he ventured to offer to receive deposits in the summer of
1 834 ; and with such success was the proposal attended, that in
the course of four months there was deposited above L. 100. The
sum in the savings bank at present (1836) is within a few pounds
of L. 300. There is this difierence between the present and for-
mer savings bank, that no contributions are now received beyond
L. 40, nor from any persons not resident in the parish, — neither of
which restrictions existed under the former regulations.
Inns. — There is no inn or alehouse in the parish ; for resisting
the introduction of which, the district is much indebted to the late
Sir George Abercromby, and his son, the present Sir Robert.
Fuel. — Peat and wood are the chief materials used for fuel. The
peat is obtained from the Carnousie property ; the wood from Car-
nousie and Forglen. Coals are brought from Banff at the rate of
about lOd. the cwt. exclusive of carriage.
July 1336.
PARISH OF GARTLY.
PRESBYTERY OF STRATHBOGIE, SYNOD OF MORAY.
THE REV. JOHN ROBERTSON, MINISTER,
I. — Topography and Natural History.
Extent^ Botcndariesj Sfc. — The parish of Gartly, though locally
in Aberdeenshire, is nevertheless, legally, partly in that county and
partly in the county of Banff. It is divided^ nearly in the centre,
by the water of Bogie, into what is called the Barony and the Braes.
The Barony is in the county of Banff, and pays the land tax in that
county, — the Braes are in the county of Aberdeen. This ano-
maly is said to have arisen from the circumstance, that the pro-
prietor of the Barony, Baron Biarclay, one of the feudal barons
of the ancient Earls of Huntly, being Sheriff of the county of Banff,
used means to get his domains within his own jurisdiction. The
parish is of an irregular oblong form, about 12 miles in length from
east to west, and 4^ miles in breadth in the middle, and may com-
prise about 33 square miles. It is bounded on the east by the pa-
rishes of Insch and Kinnethmont ; on the west by Cabrach and
Huntly; on the south by Rhynie; and on the north by Huntly and
Drumblade.
Topographical Appearances. — The boundaries on the east and
west sides are hilly and chiefly covered with heath, the moors on both
sides are extensive, and abound with grouse, &c and have for some
years past been let to gentlemen from the other side of the Tweed,
as shooting-grounds. From the mosses on these hills, not only the
inhabitants of the parish, but also of the town of Huntly, are in a
great measure supplied with fueL The mosses on the east side of
the parish are now almost exhausted ; but on the west side they are
so deep and extensive as to be almost inexhaustible. From these
hills, many small brooks fall into the Bogie. The valleys supplied
by these brooks are very fertile, as well as the lands on both sides of
the Bogie. The surface is, in many places, beautifully diversified
with hill and dale. Some of the glens are exceedingly beautiful
and picturesque. The glen of Tillyminnet, in particular, which
96 BANFFSHIRE.
appears among the surrounding hills like an oasis in the desert,
has been frequently visited and admired by persons of taste from
various parts of the kingdom. Near the manse, there is a very
curious little hill called ^^ the Riggin/' from its resemblance to the
ridge of a house. It is about 500 yards in length, and about 40
feet in height It has evidently been formed by the action of wa-
ter, as it contains large masses of water sand, and an immense
quantity of smooth and rounded stones. It is not unlikely that,
in the course of ages, this singularly curious formation may have
been raised by irruptions of the Bogie, in conjunction with torrents
from the hills produced by sudden thaws after great falls of snow
or long continued falls of rain. The climate of the parish is rather
cold, whidi may be accounted for partly from its high latitude, and
partly from its particular situation among the hills, which are quite
destitute of wood; indeed, there is scarcely any wood in the parish
except on the banks of the Bogie, which are covered with alder —
a beautiful birch wood at the glen of Tilly minuet and three or four
sooall young platttatioas. The numerous instances of longevity in
the parish, however, afford ample evidence thai the climate, though
cold, is heakhy.
Springs^ S;c^ — The parish abounds with perennial springs of excel-
lent soft water, and also with numerous very fine chalybeate springs.
The Bogie takes its rise in Auchindoir, and after winding its course
of about 14 miles, through the parishes of Rhynie and Oartly,
unites with the Deveron a little below Huntly, and finds its way
into the sea at Banff.
Geology and Mineralogy, — In regard to minerals, this parish
has little to boast, with the exception of slate. Granite, a little lime-
stone and schistus, or clayslate, are here and there met with, suf-
ficient for the purposes of building houses and stone fences; but the
limestone is so small in quantity, and so deeply seated, that no quar-
ries have been opened, as the farmers can obtain lime from the quar-
ries of Ardonald in the neighbouring parish of Caimie, at a cheap-
er rate. Several of the bills, however, abound with excellent slate,
and many quarries have been opened, which not only yield con-
siderable rent to the proprietor, but afford employment to a num-
ber of industrious labourers, who frequently obtain good wages from
the tacksmen. The soils are various. In the Braes, and on the
haughs along the Bogie, the soil is, in general, a sharp loam with a
considerable portion of sand, and the subsoil either sand or clay. In
3
GARTLY. 97
the Barony, it is light and sandy, and commonly rests upon a gravel-
ly bottom or kind of hard till, which is very difficult to pierce.
11. — Civil History.
Many of the natives of this parish have risen to respectable rank
in the military and medical departments, and many of them have
done honour to the church established in our land. The late Dr
Moodie of Edinburgh was born at Kirkstyle, during the time that
a manse was building for his worthy father, then parish minister,
whose memory is still held in veneration by some of the aged in-
habitants — who speak of him as an able and faithful minister of
the New Testament.
Parochial Registers. — Parochial registers of births and mar-
riages have been preserved from about the commencement of the
last century, and kept with tolerable regularity up to the present time.
Antiquities. — The principal antiquity in the parish is an old ruin
called Castle of Gartly. In Chalmerses Life of Mary Queen of Scots,
it is stated, that this beautiful but unfortunate princess, on her re-
turn from an excursion to Inverness and Ross-shire, ^^ repassed
through the country of the Gordons, which had once been held
out as so frightful. She remained a night at Gartly, where there
is still a ruined castle, and the parish whereof belongs even now
to the Duke of Gordon." — The sites of four. Roman Catholic cha-
pels are still pointed out in the Braes, namely, at Heathery hillock,
Brawlinknows, Tilly throwie, and Kirkney ; and the vestiges of some
of them and of the burial-grounds thereto attached are still visible.
There were, of late years, a number of tumuli on a piece of ground
called '^ the buried men's legs" on the farm of Mill-hill, near the
church, where a skirmish was fought after the battle of Harlaw, in
the flight of a party of Highlanders in 1411. Several of the cairns
were cleared away, about thirty-five years ago ; and in one of them
were found the remains of two dirks, the handles of which were
pretty entire, but the blades much decayed. In another, were found
two large brass buckles about four inches broad, probably used in
buckling their claymores. There was also lately found, in a cairn on
the farm of Faich-hill, an urn containing bones ; and a large one pret-
ty entire on the farm of Riskhouse. The present farmer of Cock-
ston, within these last few years, found on his &rm an earthen pot
containing round pieces of stamped leather, which was supposed
to have been used in ancient times as coin, — ^but in such a state of
decay, that they mouldered away at the touch. A stone coffin was
lately found by Captain Gordon of the Royal Artillery on his farm
BANFF. G
98 BANFFSHIRE.
of Goldran. There is an eminence on a hill between Corncattarach
and Malsach hill, called Yaiken or Oaken Bank^ said to have been
covered in ancient times with oak wood, and from which it is re-
ported that the cupples of the old church were taken. — The re-
mains of some oak trees are still to be seen in one of the mosses,
and also of fir-trees of considerable size. — The ashes of the Vis-
count of Aboyne and several of his followers, and of John Gor-
don, laird of Rothiemay^ who were burned in the old tower of the
House of Frendraught, in the parish of Forgue, in 1630, (as related
by Spalding,) were buried in a vault in the church of Gartly, which
is still to be seen. There is a tradition, which appears to be well-
founded, that that merry monarch, James I. of Scotland, who was
in the habit of visiting different parts of the kingdom in disguise,
in one of his rambles, spent a night at a place called ^^ Muirellis."
The gudeman was so well pleased with the humour and jokes of the
royal incog, that he ordered the gvdewife to kill '* the hen nearest
the cock" for a repast to his pleasant companion. The King,
on the other hand, was so much pleased with the kindness and hos-
pitality of his entertainer, that he obtained a grant from the Earl
of Huntly, that he and his descendants should occupy the pos-
session rent free, which it is said they did, for many generations.
There is also a tradition that an infant son of the Baron of Gart-
ly was drowned, on returning from being baptized at the chapel
of Brawlinknows, when the water of Bogie was flooded after a great
fall of rain ; and the place where it was said the infant was drown-
ed, is still called « Lord John's Pot"
III. — Population.
The number of inhabitants in this parish, about fifty or sixty
years ago, was much greater than it is at present. It was
in 1755, . 1S28
1783, - 2000
1703» - . 1800
At the census before last, it fell to 979. This decrease can only
be imputed to the principal tenants extending their farms and re-
moving their cottagers. It has, however, since that time increas-
ed considerably, and is now 1 136. This increase has chiefly arisen
from the additional number of labourers lately employed at the slate
quarries, many of whom are married and have families.
The annual average of births for the last seven years is, - - ^
ofmarriageSf ... ... 10
Number of persons under 1 5 years of age,* .... 4^
between 15 and 30, - - - - 291
90 and 50, - - - - 181
60 and 70, 150
above 70, . - • - 28
GARTLY. 99
The aTerage number of children iu each family is nearly 3 ; the number of blind
in the parish, 2; of deaf and dumb, 1.
Number of fiimilies in the parish, - . . . ^15
chiefly employed in agriculture, - - - 143
in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 50
During the last three years there have been 12 illegitimate births
in the parish.
IV. — Industry.
Agriculture. — The parish contains about 1 4,627 Scotch acres, of
which 4325 are under cultivation, and 10,t302 in pasture, wood,
moor, and moss. Many of the moors are well calculated for grow-
ing wood, and, were they planted, would tend not only to beautify
the country, but also to afford shelter and improve the climate.
The only undivided common in the parish is the Malshach hill and
its adjoining moors, which are common to all the tenants in the
barony ; but few of them avail themselves of this privilege, as the
pasture is rather poor. A considerable part of the moor, howover,
might be cultivated with advantage. The average rent of acr^le
land is about L. 1 Sterling per Scotch acre.
Wages, — Men-servants receive from L. 5, 5s. to L. 6, 6s« in the
half-year; women for summer, from L. 2 to L.d, and in winter
from L. 1, 5s. to L. 1, Ids. ; herds from L. 1 to L. 2, all with victu-
als. Country wrights, who go from house to house, receive from
Is. dd. to Is. 6d. a-day ; masons are generally employed by the
rood, and their charge is from L. 1 to Ii. 1, I4s. per rood for plain
ruble work : slaters charge from 12s. to Ids. per rood; blacksmiths,
when they afford material, charge from 4d. to 8d. per lb. for made
work, and Is. a-day with victuals.
Husbandry. — Since the introduction of turnip husbandry, cattle
have been much improved, and more attention than formerly is
now paid to the best breeds. The old Aberdeenshire breed cros-
sed by the Argyleshire is undoubtedly best suited for the district.
There are only a few farmers about the hill-sides who keep
sheep; and it is not believed that there are above 1600 or 1800
sheep in the parish, which are generally of the black-faced kind.
The common duration of leases is nineteen years, which is consi-
dered as sufficiently favourable to the occupier. Much improvement
has been recently made upon many of the farm-steadings, and a
considerable part of the waste land has been drained and improved.
In the year 1828, George Gordon, Esq. in Bucharn, obtained the
Highland Society's honorary gold medal, for 160 acres of land im-
proved on that farm, during the seven preceding years. This gen-
L.7600
2692
865
1518
15
i:fl8
100 BANFFSHIRE.
tleman and a few others have also subdivided and enclosed their
fields with very substantial stone dikes ; but in general very little
has been done in the way of enclosing, though this is one of the
greatest improvements for the country.
Produce, —
The average produce of ffrain of all kinds may be reckoned about
10,000 bolls,— value, ....
432 acres of turnip, ......
108 do. of potatoes, ....
60760 stones of hay, - - ...
Value of pasture, ....
L. 13,793 15
V. — Parochial Economy.
There are neither villages nor market-towns in the parish. The
nearest market-town is Huntly, which is about four miles from
the parish church, but only about one mile from that part of the
pafisji which is bounded by Huntly. The means of communica-
tiftji enjoyed by the parish are tolerably good. Some of the by-
hoalds, as it may be supposed, are very indifferent in winter or
after much rain ; but as there are about four miles of turnpike
on the line of road from Huntly to Rhynie and Kinnethmont, on
which two public coaches travel daily, and about one mile and a-half
through the Foudland hills, which on the one side joins the turnpike
road from Huntly to Aberdeen, and on the other leads to the vil-
lage of Insch in the Garioch,— the parish, upon the whole, enjoys
considerable facilities in the way of communication with the prin-
cipal market-towns to which the farmers have occasion to resort
Ecclesiastical State. — -The kirk was built in the year 1621, but
it has at different periods undergone so many repairs and changes
that, with the exception of the steeple, there is perhaps very
little of the old building now remaining. It was new seated,
and otherwise substantially repaired, about twelve years ago. It
is nearly centrical to the greater part of the population, though
the extreme distance of a small part of it, on one side, is near-
ly seven miles, and on the other about four. It affords accommoda-
tion for about 550 persons, and the sittings are all free. A very sub-
stantial and commodious new manse was built in the year 1821.
The glebe, including the garden and sites of the manse and offi-
ces, is about eleven Scotch acres, and may be estimated at about
L. 16 a year. The stipend is fourteen chalders of victual, one-half
in barley, and the other in meal, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for affording
communion elements. Number of families attending the Establish-
ed Church about 160; persons of all ages, 500; number of Dissent-
GARTLY. 101
mg families, 10; of persons, 34 ; Episcopalian, 1; Roman Catho-
lic, 1 ; of families, in which persons attending the Established
Church and dissenters are nearly equal, 9; average number of com-
municants in the Established Church, 400. With the exception
of prayer meetings, of which there are five or six in the parish,
there are no societies for religious purposes established in the pa-
rish, as it is near Huntly, where there are flourishing Bible and
missionary societies, of which a considerable number of the people
vof this parish are members, and to which they contribute pretty
liberally. The average amount of church collections for religious
and charitable purposes, exclusive of the weekly Sabbath collec-
tions for the poor, may be about L. 10 Sterling a year.*
Education. — There is only one regular permanent school in the
parish, namely, the parochial; but there are generally one or two
schools taught by females for the benefit of young children, and
the instruction of girls in sewing; and duHng the winter, one or two
teachers are frequently engaged for instructing the children of such
families as are at a distance frpm the parish school, in reading,
writing, and arithmetic. These branches, together with Latin and
^he elements of mathematics, are taught at the parish school. The
general annual expense of education is, for reading, 10s. ; reading
and writing, 12s. ; arithmetic, 16s. ; Latin, L. 1 ; mathematics, &c.
.L. 1, 10s. The children between six and fifteen years of age are in
general taught to read, and the greater part of them also to write.
Children above ten years of age could generally attend school, with
the exception of three families, whose distance from it is about seven
miles ; but an additional school for these families and others who
are more than four miles from school, would be of great conse-
quence. The salary of the schoolmaster, including the statutory
allowance for a garden, is about L. 32, 10s. and the amount of
school fees, L. 1 5.
Literature, — There is a parochial library in the parish, consist-
ing of upwards of 200 volumes on divinity, history, biography, voy-
ages, travels, and on other subjects connected with agriculture, —
which has, it is hoped, been instrumental in increasing the intelli-
gence and promoting the moral improvement of the people.
Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons re-
ceiving parochial aid is 20, and the average sum allotted to each an-
nually, nearly L. 2 Sterling. The annual amount of funds for their
* Since thin Account was given in, a society for religious purposes has been esta-
blished in the parish, which is likely to prosper.
102 BANFFSHIRE.
relief is, from church collections, L.25; interest of funds, L. 12; pe-
nalties from delinquents, L. 3; total L. 40. Necessity alone compels
the poor in general to apply for parochial relief, as i^uch application is
almost universally considered to be of a humiliating and degrading
nature.
Inns. — There is only one inn in the parish, in a situation which
renders it necessary for the accommodation of travellers ; and being
kept by a person of very decent and respectable character, it is be-
lieved that it has produced no bad effects on the morals of the
people.
MiSCBLLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Since the last Statistical Account was drawn up, there has been a
considerable improvement both in respect of the general intelligence
and morality of the people, and the comforts of domestic life. While
the price of labour and land rent is nearly double, the price of grain
is nearly the same. The value of cattle is indeed greater, but does
not afford a'sufficient remuneration to the farmer. The system of
husbandry (the seven-shift course) is perhaps, upon the whole, best
adapted to the soil, climate, and local circumstances of the parish ;
but if agriculture continues in its present depressed state, a reduc-
tion of rent would appear to be absolutely necessary to stimulate and
reward the industry, and promote the comfort and happiness of the
tenantry ; and, as they hold their possessions from a family who
have been long distinguished for a regard to their prosperity, there
can be little doubt that, if a favourable change does not soon take
place in the value of agricultural produce, this boon will not
long be withheld,
July 1836,
PARISH OF MORTLACH.
PRESBYTERY OF STRATHBOGIE, AND SYNOD OF MORAY.
THE REV. MORRIS FORSYTH, MINISTER.
I. — Topography AND Natural History.
Name. — The name is very ancient In the charter given by
Malcolm II. about 850 years ago, to the first bishop of this early
see, it was called Morthelac or Morthlac. From the situation of
the church, which is in a deep and hollow valley, some naturally
enough think it is a corruption of the Gaelic word Morlay, great
hollow^ — ^while others derive it from Mortislacus, the lake of death,
alluding to a battle which was fought here, and which will be no-
ticed in its proper place. Various other fanciful etymologies have
been given.
Extent f Boundaries. — Surrpunded by Glass on the east, Cabrach
and Inveraven, including Glenlivat, on the south, Aberlour on the
west, — with Boharm and Botriphnie towards the north, ^ it lies 51
miles north-west from Aberdeen, and 30 south from Banff. Its
form is irregular ; the greatest length from the head of Glenrinnes
to the point where it borders the Spey on the north, is fully 1 1
miles ; and the greatest breadth, from the banks of the Doveran to
the foot of Benrinnes may be as much. It is encompassed with
hills, the principal of which are Corhabbie and Benrinnes. The
latter towers conspicuous above all the others, being distinctly
visible from the sea, from which it forms a good land-mark. Its
height above the level of the sea is estimated at 2561 feet ; from
its base, 1680.
Climate^ Springs. — The air is pure and wholesome^ though ra-
ther moist than dry. We have several chalybeate springs similar
to those of Peterhead. There is one of a petrifying nature be-
tween Morthven and Boharm. Besides the Doveran, which merely
skirts the parish towards the south, the only two rivulets in the pa-
rish, are the Fiddich and DuUen. The former has its source in Glen-
fiddich, towards Strathdon, the latter in Glenrinnes, on the bounda-
ries of Glenlivat ; they unite about a mile below the church, and^
104 BANFFSHIRE.
after a course of about 5 miles farther northward, run into the Spey.
Their whole course may be about 12 or 14 miles.
Geology and Mineralogy. — Limestone of good quality is found
in the whole district On some of the hills, particularly on the
Conval, there is great abundance of granite well suited for build-
ing ; and on others, abundance of coarse gray slate. On the burn
of the TuUich on the Kininvie property, there is some appearance
of alum and lead ; and in one or two other places, there is a lami-
nated rock, somewhat of the nature of asbestus. Antimony, in
small quantities, is found imbedded in the lime rocks, while their
fissures abound in calcspar. Small garnets, too, are sometimes
found imbedded in the gray slate near the farm of Parkbeg, on the
east side of the Fiddich.
The soil is generally loamy, pretty deep, and fertile.
Zoology, — Here are plenty of foxes, weasles, hares, badgers and
otters. In the Duke of Gordon's forests of Glenfiddich, the red-
deer are very numerous ; and at the head of it, there are convenient
shooting quarters. Among birds, we have none more uncommon
than the blackbird, thrush, goldfinch, bullfinch, linnet, and robin.
We have also the migratory cuckoo, lapwing, and swallow ; and in
the heath, there are grouse in abundance, and a few ptarmigan
and black-cock.
II. — Civil History.
Shaw's History of the province of Moray contains, if not the
most ancient, the best account of the civil history of this parish.
Of historical events worthy of observation, the most memorable
is that called the battle of Mortlach, in which Malcolm II. ob-
tained a complete victory over the Danes, in the year 1010. Mal-
colm had suffered a signal defeat from the Danes the preceding
year, and was compelled to leave them masters of the lands of
Moray. Anxious, however, to expel these daring intruders, he
returned, the year following, from the south with a powerful force,
and the Danes having intelligence of his motions, came forward to
give him battle. The armies having approached each other, in the
neighbourhood of the church of Mortlach, engaged a very little to
the northward of it In the beginning of the attack, while push-
ing on with too ardent an impetuosity, Kenneth, Thane of the
Isles, Dunbar, Thane of Laudian, and Graeme, Thane of Strath-
earn, were unfortunately slain. Panic-struck by the loss of three
of their generals, the Scotch got into confusion. Everything was
now in a most doubtful state. The King, who had the character
MORTLACH* 105
of a brave, sensible, and pious man, was reluctantly borne along by
the retreating crowd, till he was opposite the church of Mortlach,
then a chapel dedicated to St Molach. The narrowness of the pass
here abated a little the career of the pursuing Danes ; and the fly-
ing army having a short space to breathe, were, from the very nature
of the ground, again almost necessarily collected. The appearance
of the consecrated walls inspired the monarch, in that age of su*
perstition, with a devotional impulse. He prayed, paid homage to
the Virgin Mary and the tutelary saint, according to the manners
of the times, and addressed himself in an animating speech to his
countrymen and fellow-soldiers. At this critical moment, he put
himself at the head of his forces, again pressed on the foe, threw
Euetus, one of the Danish generals, from his horse, and killed him
with his own hand. The charge was vigorously renewed ; and, un-
der the mingled influence of patriotism and religion, the Scotch,
carrying all before them, achieved the victory. Soon after this de-
feat, the Danes left the kingdom. There are some appearances
indicating that the final engagement, after rallying, happened a few
hundred yards to the south-west of the Castle of Balvery ; and it
seems mdre than probable, that the more ancient part of that build-
ing was then in existence, for a fort is mentioned as near the field
of battle. *
Antiquities. — The two old Castles of Auchindown and Balvery de-
serve to be mentioned. They are, at present, in a ruinous state, but
were, about two hundred years ago, both inhabited. When they
were first built, and by whom, is not known. The former stands
in a bold and commanding situation, on the banks of the Fiddich,
and has, since the year 1535, been in possession of the Gordon
family. The latter stands on a beautiful eminence, a little below
the confluence of the Fiddich and Dullen, and is now the proper*
ty of the Earl of Fife. On its front and over its high and massy
gate still remaining, is a motto of the Stewarts, Earls of Athol,
descriptive of the savage valour and unhappy circumstances of the
times : " Furth Fortuine and Fill thi Fettris."
Among some rubbish dug up about fifteen years ago, in the ruins
of the Castle of Auchindown, a massive gold ring of three links
was found, with a motto inscribed upon it, which, as it could only
be read when the rings were in a certain position, seems to have
been intended as a puzzle. It is supposed to be in the possession
* Vide Fordun, Boetius, &c.
106 BANFFSHIRE.
of the Gordon family. Besides these, there are various traditional
and sure memorials of the famous battle of Mortlach, which our
present limits will only allow us briefly to mention.
1. The vestiges of an intrenchment on the Conval hill, called
the Danish Camp.
2. A huge and irregularly rounded stone, now part of the fence
about a corn field, said to have been placed over the grave of £u«
etus.
3. Near the same place, is a small square piece of ground al-
most covered with whins, into which multitudes of the dead were
thrown.
4. Three lengths of Malcolm's spear added to the length of the
church, in fulfilment of his vow.
5. Three of the Danes' skulls built into the north wall of the
church, the moulds of which are to this day quite distinct
6. A large upright stone about seven feet high, on the one side
of which are rudely carved the cross and two figures of animals,
and on the other side a snake.
Modem Buildings. — A small neat Roman Catholic chapel, built
a few years ago, and a jail now in progress on the squaite in the
village, are the only modern buildings worthy of notice.
III. — Population.
It would appear, that, about fifty years previous to the date of
the former Account, the parish had been considerably more popu-
lous than it then was. Since the census of 1821, it has increased,
— which has been chiefly owing to the giving of land for feus, on
part of Lord Fife's property. The village of Dufilown, which was
begun in ldl7, contains 756 souls, and the country partjof the parish
1877 — making a total of 2633. The yearly average of births for
the last seven years is 64 ; of deaths, 34 ; and of marriages, 10. An
allowance may be made for two or three births omitted to be re-
gistered every year.
Population under 15 years of age,
from Id to 30,
30 to 50,
60 to 70,
upwards of 70,
971
574
661
849
78
Total,
2633
Number of bachelors above 50, .
unmarried women, above the age of 45,
28
81
Land-oumers. — The proprietors of land of the yearly rent of
L. 50 and upwards are 5, viz. The Heir of the late Duke of Gor-*
MORTLAGH. 107
don ; Lord Fife ; Mr Leslie of Kininvie ; Mr Gregory of Buch-
romb ; and Mr Duff of Drummuir. The only resident heritor is
Mr Gregory, Buchromb.
Upon the whole, the inhabitants are a sedate and religious
people, and in comfortable circumstances. We hear occasionally
of poachers in our hills ; but, fortunately, illegal distillation, which
at one time was carried on to a great extent in this parish, has of
late, from the high fines imposed by the excise on those detected
in it, become, it is believed, extinct.
IV. — Industry.
Agriculture, — The gross rental of the parish is^ as nearly as can
be ascertained, about L. 4500. Of 35,000, the supposed number
of acres in the parish, 5000 may be under cultivation, 80,000 waste
or in pasture, of which from 400 to 500 may be capable of im-
provement, and 600 under wood, consisting principally of ash,
elm, plane, birch, oak, Scotch fir, larch, &c.
Rent of Land. — The land is generally rented at about L. 1 per
acre, while the expense of grazing is at the rate of L. 2, 2s. per
ox, and 2s. 6d. per ewe or full-grown sheep.
Bate of Wages. — Day-labourers at farm or other work receive
from Is. 6d. to Is. lOd. per day without victuals, in winter from
Is. to Is. 4d. ; Wrights per day of ten hours, Is. 8d. to 2s. ; ma-
sons, do. Is. lOd. to 2s.; farm-servants by the half year, maintain-
ed in the family, men from L. 3 to Ij. 6 ; women from L. 1, lOs.
to L. 2, 10s. ; mason-work per rood for workmanship, L. 1 to
L. 1, 5s. ; slate do. 12s. to 16s.
Live-stock J 8fc. — The sheep are of the black-faced breed, and the
cattle a cross between the Highland and Aberdeenshire breed.
The state of husbandry is in general good, and of late much spi-
rit in improving waste land, draining, &c has been displayed.
Quarries. — There are several limestone and slate quarries within
the parish, and though there is plenty of granite also, no quarry
of this description has been wrought.
Produce. — According to a calculation made by an individual of
much experience, the annual produce is as follows :
Grain raised in the parish, . . . L. 8995
Potatoes, turnips, &c. - - - - 3216
Hay, including grass pasture, - * - - 8000
Gardens and orchards, - - - - 80
The annual thinning of wood, - - - 120
Two Ume works, • , - - - 2000
L. 17,800
108 BANFFSHIRE.
V. — Parochial Economy.
VUlagej S^c. — In Dufftown, the only village in the parish, there is
no regular weekly market ; but grain is brought there for the con-
venience of dealers, who from time to time resort to the village.
There are five cattle markets annually, which are well frequented.
The nearest market-town, properly so called, is Keith, distant ele-
ven miles. At Dufftown, there is a daily post which branches off
from Craigellachie. The turnpike roads from Mortlach to Elgin,
Keith and Fochabers extend six miles through the parish ; but,
since the great flood of 1829, both the roads and the bridges over
the DuUen and Fiddich have been entirely neglected.
Ecclesiastical State. — The minister's stipend is 15 chalders, one-
half barley and the other half meal, converted into money at the
fiars prices of the county, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements.
The glebe, worn away at different periods by the inroads of the Dul-
len, is, at the present period, about 5 acres in extent An addi-
tion was made to the very old manse in 1807.
The church, which is indeed venerable, may accommodate 1500
sitters. It was a little modernized by an addition made to it seven
years ago. Its walls are most probably as old as the beginning of
the eleventh century, and so strong, that they may stand for many
years to come. Its situation is convenient for the most populous dis-
trict of the parish. At the head of the parish, in Glenrinnes, there
is a missionary chapel. The present incumbent, the Rev. Alex-
ander Falconer, is paid L. 60 out of the Royal bounty. He has,
besides, a free house and garden, with three acres of land. He
preaches regularly, and catechises. Near the church, as before-
mentioned, stands a handsome Catholic chapel. Of late years, in
consequence of several families of that persuasion having taken feus
and settled in the village, their numbers have increased, and amount
at present to 170. From 40 to 50 of these are from neighbouring
parishes. Divine service is regularly attended at the parish church,
and the number of communicants never less than 700. There are
no dissenting meeting-houses, nor any society for religious purposes,
in the parish.
Education. — Besides the parochial school, the average number
of scholars at which is about 90, there is a school in Glenrinnes,
supported by the Committee of the General Assembly, the num-
ber of scholars attending which is about 80 in winter, and 30 in sum-
mer ; also one in the village, supported solely by school fees, and
two in Auchindown, the teachers of which receive annually L. 4 from
MORTLACH. 109
the Duchess of Gordon. The parochial schoolmaster has the maxi-
mum salary and the legal accommodations. All persons in the pa-
rish, of proper age, can read, and almost all write a little.
Libraries. — There is a small circulating library in the parish,
and also a small library for the use of the children who attend the
Sabbath school.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers at present
on the roll may be about 60, and these are wholly supported by
collections made in the church, which may average from lis. to
12s. weekly, and the interest of 1500 merks bequeathed by Wil-
liam Duff, and L. 100 by Mr Alexander Forbes, a native of this
parish. The interest of this last sum can only, in terms of Mr
Forbes's will, be given to four families annually. Besides the
above 1500 merks bequeathed by Mr Duff for behoof of the poor,
he also bequeathed 500 merks for behoof of the schoolmaster. Dr
John Lorimer, formerly of this parish, left L. 200 for the mainte-
nance of a bursar at the school of Mortlach, and L. 200 more to
enable him, if so inclined, to prosecute his studies at Marischal
College, Aberdeen. It may be proper to observe, that the state-
ment given in the former Statistical Account of this parish, of a
sum of money having been bequeathed by a gentleman of the name
of Moir, for the maintenance of a bursar from this parish, was in-
correct.
July 1836.
PARISH OF ABERLOUR,
PRESBYTERY OF ABERLOUR, SYNOD OF MORAY.
THE REV. ALEXANDER WILSON, MINISTER.
I. — Topography and Natural History.
^ame.— -The name of this parish was originally Skirkdustan^
from the word Shir, meaning, in the original Gaelic, to cut or di-
vide, and Du»tan, the name ofits tutelary saint; the whole signify-
ing Dustan's division or parish. It takes its modern name of Abernvals, and especially the district of Glenrin-
nes, suffer more from Alpine inclemency, than any other parts of
the parish.
In the commencement of winter, Benrinnes is usually covered
with snow, or, as the country people say, *^ has on its night-cap,''
long before any part of the surrounding country.
The harvests in the neighbourhood of this and the adjoining
hills, and in the district of Glenrinnes, are a few weeks later than
in the vicinity of the Spey, partly owing to the traces of winter con-
tinuing longer, and partly to the great quantity of rain, which,
from the proximity of the hills, &lls there during summer.
Although a few weeks of severe drought during summer have
been supposed at the time to be injurious to the crops, yet for se*
veral years prior to 1835, and, indeed, in general, there has not
been much occasion to complain of want of rain in any part of the
parish.
Hydrography. — Owing to the rapidity of the current^ the Spey
IB little broader here than in Badenoch, fifty miles nearer its
source, where the water flows more slowly. The fields in the
immediate vicinity frequently suffer a little from overflowings
of the river; and August 1829 witnessed the greatest and most
destructive flood within the memory of any living inhabitant In
1768, the water is recorded to have risen eighteen feet perpendicu^
lar above its ordinary level, but this was exceeded in ] 829 by about
eighteen inches. All the holm land belonging to the parish wa9
more or less injured, along with the crops that it bore at the time, —
the soil of some fields being carried off to the extent of many acres
bare to the channel, and others covered with sand and rough gra-
vel to the depth of several feet. The dry stone arches which
formed the eastern approach to the metal bridge of Craig Ellachie
(to be noticed hereafter,) were entirely swept away, leaving only
a few yards of mason work to be a precarious support to that end of
the arch. A cottage, garden, and offices near the foot of the bridge
were entirely carried off; and much damage was done to furniturQ
BANFF. H
114 BANFFSHIRE.
and property in other parts of the parish by the water, which stood
to the height of four or five feet in some dwelling-houses.
There is a beautiful cascade called the Lynn of Ruthrie, on the
Burn of Aberlour, about a mile above where it runs into the Spey.
The stream, after occupying several yards of a smooth channel worn
out by the water in the solid rock, is precipitated from a height of
thirty feety and, being broken in its fall about the middle of this
heiglu^ by a projecting platform of the same rock, falls into a cir-
cular pool or basin below, formerly of immense depth, but now
greatly filled up by the boulders and debris brought from the hills
in the flood of 1829. The rock, which is of red granite, rises to
a great height above the fall ; and with its sylvan cover of birch and
other shrubs presents, along with the fall, a very romantic and
beautiful appearance.
Soil, 8fc. — The few fields of holm land, formed by the river, con-
sist of a rich deep loam mixed with sand. A little farther from
the river, a like mould occurs on a bed of rough gravel. To-
wards the foot of the hills, in the east and middle parts of the pa-
rish, the soil becomes a deep clay on a bed of gravel, covered with
a thin alluvial soil ; and towards the foot of Benrinnes, there oc-
curs a good deal of moss on patches lately improved from heathy
surfaces. About the centre of the parish, there is a good deal of
rich alluvial soil on granite rock, and there is still more soil, of the
same productive nature, on alternate beds of clay and gravel, to-
wards the eastern and western extremities of the parish, at the
same distance from the river. The soil of that part of Glenrin-
nes which belongs to Aberlour consists partly of loam and partly
of clay, upon a pretty uniform rock of limestone, and averages from
one to three feet in depth.
No lime-rock is found in this parish or Inveraven, north of the
mountain chain ; but south of the chain, the parishes of Mortlach,
Aberlour in Glenrinnes, and Glenlivat in Inveraven, are pervaded
by that useful rock, which runs in a continued vein through the
whole of these districts.
Mortlach supplies great part of Aberlour with lime at 2s. per
boll, which answers the purposes of the farmer better here than
in limestone districts, by rendering the soil very productive. The
farmers in the upper part of the parish, from their near locality to
Glenrinnes, prefer driving limestones from a quarry there, which
they burn for themselves on their own farms.
The difference of soil in the Glenrinnes district, from that near the
^^^
A.BERLOUR. 115
Spey, has likewise, as well as tlie difference of climate, formerly men-
tioDed, a marked effect on the period and continuance of vegetation.
in the latter situation, where the soil is comparatively light and sandy ,
vegetation is early, but the growth of grass, &c. generally begins
to fail by midsummer ; whereas in the more retentive soil of Glen-
rinnes, vegetation is but partial until the day is longest ; but here
the grazing continues good in autumn, when the fields on Spey side
are comparatively bare.
Zoology. — The migratory birds, the cuckoo, lapwing, and swal-
low, make their appearance here at stated seasons during spring and
summer, and disappear towards autumn, sometimes a little earlier
or later, according to the comparative mildness of the season. The
woodcock, too, generally appears in autumn, and disappears again
about the end of April. Roe*deer may be found on the hill of
Carron, and black-cock may be generally found there, although
not very numerous. Partridges, plover, grouse, and hares abound
on the hills of the parish, particularly Benrinnes, which is under-
stood to be the nursery of game, to the moors of the surrounding
country, to a great distance. There are also snipes and wild ducks
to be found in the vale of Glenrinnes. White hares, ptarmigans,
and eagles are sometimes seen on the top of Benrinnes. Foxes
and wild cats still exist in the parish, but are becoming more rare.
There is good salmon and trout fishing in the Spey and Fid-
dich. Several pools in the former opposite to this parish are sup-
posed to equal any other, for rod-fishing, in the whole course of that
river.
The fishing commences on the 1st of February, and closes on
the 14th September; and a little after the latter period, the fish
come up for spawning, and, sometime before the former, they re-
turn again to the sea.
During the time of spawning, a small bird called the water-cock
abounds in the Spey and its tributaries, which is considered very
destructive in diving and picking up the spawn.
Formerly any person^ who succeeded in killing one of these birds,
was allowed, as a reward, the privilege of fishing in the close sea*
son ; but, for a long time back, this has been lost sight of.
Plantations, — There are several thriving plantations of firs on
the hilly parts of the districts of Aberlour, AUachie, and Carron,
with some elm and ash trees nearer the river, the banks of which
are, in many parts, covered with birch of a remarkable size.
116 BANFFSHIRE.
II. — Civil History.
This parish ean boast of no remarkable antiquities.
Land'-oumers. — It belongs to four proprietors, Lord Fife; James
William Grant, Esq. of Wester Elchies ; Alexander Grant, Esq.
of Aberlour ; and the Earl of Seafield. Lord Fife is the greatest
land-owner, and the Earl of Seafield the least, the latter posses^
sing only the small property of Mudhouse. Aberlour is the only
family seat in the parish.
Parochial Registers. — A parochial register has been regularly
kept since the year 1707, down to the present time, with the ex-
ception of some trifling blanks during the troublesome period of
1745. A registration of marriages, births, and deaths was uni*-
formly made at the commencement of this period; but that of
deaths has been discontinued for the last seventy-six years.
Modem Buildings. — Near the influx of the burn of Aberlour,
on the daugh of AUachie, stand the roofless walls of the old church;
and about 300 yards farther to the east, on the same plain, is si-
tuated the new church, a handsome and commodious building,
erected in 1812.
About the same period, Charles Grant, Esq. of Wester Elchies,
commenced the building of a village on this plain, embracing all
the holm land of the district to the extent of half a mile in
length, and erected it into a borough of barony, under the name of
Charlestown of Aberlour. This village now contains 250 inhabi*
tants, and has four markets in the course of the year, held respec-
tively on the first Thursday of April, Thursday before the 2l8tQf
May, second Thursday of July, and second Thursday of Novem-
ber.
IIL — Population.
The population of this parish in 1792, was
I8U1,
IBll,
1821,
1831,
Yearly average of marriages for the last se^en yearsi
births, . - _
Average number of persons under 90 years of age.
Several individuals are in the enjoyment of good health at the
age of 80 and 85, and two or three have attained the advanced
age of 90.
Character and Habits of the People.-^^The English language is
universally spoken in the parish, and a very few families and ser-
vants, originally from Highland districts, are capable of using the
Gaelic language. The people are decidedly sober, and in-
920
815
923
1063
1276
.
8
••
30
«
614
ABBRLOUR. 117
duitriotts ib thmr habits^ neat aod cleanly in their persons, and
temperate in their diet, which, although animal food is occa«
sionally used in the poorest families, principally consists, among
the labouring classes, of milk and vegetable fare of their own pro-
duce« They are in general contented and comfortable in their
circumstances. Nor are they behind their neighbours, in point of
shrewdness and intelligence. They are, in general, very well in-
formed according to their station in life, and the tone of their minds
may certainly be considered as moral and religious* A consider-
able change for the better in these respects is understood to have
taken place since the suppression of smuggling,-^a case of which is
now scarcely ever heard of within the l^ounds of the parish.
IV. — Industry.
The cultivated parts of the parish, which may be about one^half
of its whole extent, and a great proportion of which has been im-
proved within the last twelve years, are divided into farms, of from
L. 10 to L. 100 of yearly rent, generally under leases of nineteen
years' duration. Some of the farms are inclosed by good stone
fences, and the farm-buildings are in general substantial and com««
tidodious.
Bent ofLand.^^The average rent per acre may be reckoned at
L. 1, 68., inclusive of permanent pasture susceptible of cultivation,
the extent of which may be again estimated at about one-twen-
tieth part of what is under the plough. Some moors, too, in the
centre of the parish may be under cultivation in the course of years.
The soil, with due culture, is in general capable of raising all
sorts of grain, barley, oats, wheat, pease, &c. ; and it is remarked,
that the average weight of barley here is from a pound and a-half
to two pounds more per bushel than in the heavier soils of the
neighbouring parishes Mortlach and Glass.
All the farmers raise black-cattle of the Morayshire breed, and
those near the hills keep a flock of sheep of the hardy black-faced
kind; but, on the whole, grain is the staple commodity the farmer
has to depend on.
Prices, — Within the last two years, the price of oats has varied
from 168. to L. 1, 2s. per quarter ; barley from L. 1, Is. to L. 1, 4s.
Rate of fVaffee.-^The rate of wages to farm-servants may be
stated as follows: for a first or principal man, L. 6 per half year;
a ploughman, L. 4, 10s. ; and maid-servants from L. 1, 10s. toL. 2,
all inclusive of lodging and maintenance. Tradesmen's wages
are moderate, mason and carpenters' work being furnished by es-
118 BANFFSHIRE.
timate, — which system is understood to have lowered the expense
to less than one-half, within the last twelve years.
V. — Parochial Economy.
Means of Communication. — The parish has enjoyed the ad-
vantage of a sub-post-ofBce to Morilach, ever since the year 1803 ;
and in addition to this, a first-office was established, some years ago,
at Craig Ellachie, which now conmiunicates daily with a principal
office at Ballindalloch through Aberlour, and also with the two sub-
offices of Dufftown and Rothes. The means of communication have
been greatly improved by a toll-road, which was made in 1817, and
runs through the whole extent of the parish, from the bridge of
Fiddich to the hill of Carron on the borders of Inveraven. An-
other very useful road was made last season, in the south, or Glen-
rinnes part of the parish, running through that vale from Duff-
town in Mortlach to Glenlivat and Tomintoul.
Ecclesiastical State. — It has been formerly stated, that a new
parish church was erected in the year 1812. This contains 700
sittings, all free. It is, at present, in good repair, apd is con-
veniently situate for the attendance of the greater part of the
parish, — being, with the exception of Glenrinnes, not more than
three miles and a-half distant from its farthest extremity in an
east and south direction, and little more than four from the far*
thest habitation on the west, or Inveraven side.
The whole population belong to the Established Church, with
the exception of a few Seceders and Independents, who likewise at-
tend divine service occasionally in the church.
The manse is a very old building. It was, many years ago, pro-
nounced, by decreet of presbytery, to be insufficient ; and having
sustained considerable damage by the flood in 1829, which re-
duced it to an entirely ruinous condition, the incumbent was al-
lowed, in lieu of a new manse, an annuity for seven years from
that date.
A great part of the glebe land was carried off bare to the chan-
nel, and in order to protect the remaining part, and preserve its
former boundaries, two bulwarks were erected by the heritors at a
great expense in 1830 ; one on the Spey, about 500 yards above
the glebe land, and the other on the burn of Aberlour, where it
forms the boundary of the glebe, and near its junction with the Spey.
Although that part of the field that was injured is entirely use-
less in the meantime, yet, it is hoped that the stagnant water re-
ceived periodically in*the excavated parts behind the bulwarks,
4
ABBRLOUB. 119
from the repeated risings of the Spey, will, by leaving successive
layers of alluvial deposit, produce a tolerable soil in the course of
time.
The stipend is 14^ chalders of grain, one-half barley, and one-
half oatmeal, with L. 8> 6s. 8d. for communion elements.
There is a missionary establishment in the valley of Glenrinnes,
for the accommodation ofthat remote part which belongs to Aber-
lour, as well as the remainder of the vale appertaining to Mort-
lach. There is a neat and commodious chapel at this station, and
the minister, who is an ordained clergyman of the Church of Scot-
land, receives L. 60 per annum from the Royal Bounty, and is pro-
vided by the heritors with a manse, glebe, and some other little
accommodations. He performs every parochial duty in his dis-
trict, with the exception of administering the sacrament. There
are about 460 communicants yearly at the church, inclusive of this
district Divine service is usually very well attended, both at the
church and the missionary station of Glenrinnes.
Education. — There is one parochial school and a female school
in Charlestown for the accommodation of the main part of
the parish, — the district of Glenrinnes being supplied by an Assem-
bly school in that place. The branches of education taught in the
parish school are, Latin, geography, arithmetic and elementary
mathematics, writing, English grammar, and English reading, with
the principles of Christian knowledge.
At the female school, sewing, knitting, and English reading are
taught; and English reading, arithmetic and writing, being the
branches most required in the country, are taught in the Assem-
bly's school of Glenrinnes.
The salary of the parish schoolmaster is the maximum, L. 34, 4s.
4^d. and the school fees average from L. 10 to L. 15 per annum.
The schoolmistress has a free house, a garden, and a small
croft of land, from the proprietor, Mr Grant of Elchies, which,
along with the school fees and the proceeds of her own industry
in dress-making, form her only dependence.
The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodations, but,
in common with most of his brethren, finding these insufficient, he
has lately built a small addition to his dwelling-house at his own
expense, in the hopes, that, when fiirther accommodation shall
have been granted to the schoolmasters in general, he may be re-
imbursed for his outlay. The school fees are very moderate, and
120 BANFFSHIRE.
the people in general appear sensible of the benefits of education,
the poorest of the parish contriving to keep their children some
time, more or less, at school, — in which and similar cases, education
is given gratis.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of the poor
upon the roll may be stated at 30, who receive pecuniary assist-
ance now and then, according to their respective necessities, and
as far as the funds will admit The weekly collections at the
church here average about 7s*, and at the chapel of Glenrinnes
about 2s., one-third of which last falls to Aberlour, and, in conse-
quence, the poor of Glenrinnes have an equal claim with the rest
of the parish upon the session funds. Besides the weekly collec-
tions, the poor derive assistance from a mortification of S^ bolls
of meal, payable yearly, off a small farm belonging to the Earl
of Fife. The sums thus realized from time to time, along with
the interest on two bequeathments of 100 merkseach, as also that
arising from small sums occasionally put to interest in times of
plenty, and penalties for immoralities, form a supply scarcely
adequate to meet the wants of the poor, even without taking into
account the burden of two pauper lunatics, who, though mainly
supported by the heritors, have, for many years, been receiving aid
from the funds. Application is seldom made for relief, without ne-
cessity on the part of the applicant ; but, on the other hand, it fre-
quently happens that unobtrusive individuals of delicate feelings are
disposed to suffer considerable destitution, before making their case
known ; but the members of session endeavour, as far as in their
power, to find out such cases, and give assistance in a manner the
least offensive.
Distillery. — In concluding this account of parochial economy, it
may be stated, that there is one whisky distillery, on a large scale,
in the parish, situated at Aberlour, which is considered an accom-
modation to the surrounding farmers, in affording a ready and conve-
nient market for their barley. There are two or three houses of
entertainment in the parish, for which spirit licenses are annually
granted, besides two principal imis^ namely, the New Inn, situated
in Charlestown, and the Cottage Inn, only separated from the vil«
lage by the burn of Aberlour.
i^^/,— In the southern and western parts of the parish, there
is a good and convenient supply of peat for fuel, but the village
^nd parts to tfie eastward are farther removed from the moss. In
ABERLOUR. 121
the village, a load of peats costs from Is. 6d. to 2s. dd. according
to the quality.
Miscellaneous Observavions.
On comparing the present state of the parish with that exhibited at
the termination of the last century, it appears, that a great addition
has been made to its cultivated parts, as well as a great improve*
ment in the method of culture adopted. These, in addition to the
erection of the village of Charlestown, and the increased facility of
communication by means of the toll-road formerly mentioned, form
the most striking variations between the state of the parish at that
time and its present state.
The bridge of Craig Ellachie over the Spey, near the eastern
extremity of the parish, likewise adds most materially to the ao
commodation of the whole country south of that river, by opening
up a communication to the Elgin markets, and to Garmouth,
the chief grain market for this quarter ; from which last place too,
this part of the country ii most conveniently supplied with coals.
This bridge was erected in the year 1815, at an expense of L. 8000,
raised partly by subscription, and partly by voluntary assessment,
along with L.4000 from Government; and in consequence there
never was any pontage exacted. It consists of a single metal arch
upwards of 160 feet in span, resting, on the north or Knockando
side, on a solid rock, which gives name to the bridge, and on a
strong pillar of mason work built on piles, on the east or Aberlour
side.
In the Knockando approach, the road was cut in the solid rock
to the height of 70 feet in the immediate vicinity of the bridge,
and upwards of 100 yards in length. Besides its advantage to the
country, which is universally acknowledged to be very great, the
appearance of the bridge, along with the majestic perpendicular
rock frowning over its western approach, is very grand and impos-
ing — adding greatly to the effect of the surrounding beautiful and
picturesque scenery. — It is frequently visited by strangers as an
object of curiosity.
With respect to the improvements, of which the parish may be
still considered susceptible, the chief regards the communication
between its main body and the district of Glenrinnes. A road on
this line would be highly beneficial to every part of the parish, by
increasing the &cility of driving limestone from Glenrinnes, and
peat fuel from the foot of Benrinnes, to the district of Edinvillie,
and those parts in the vicinity of the Spey, and also by affording
122 BANFFSHIRE.
ihe tumers of Glenrinnes a more direat communicatioii to a mar-
ket for their grain. The present substitute for a road is a rough
cart track, running through the district of Edinvillie and Glack-
hamis, almost impassable, especially after the severe winter floods ;
but such is the necessity of having a road on this line, that much
expense has been already laid out upon it, by temporary repairs
yearly, partly by allocation of small sums from the road funds, and
partly by private subscription.
It is in contemplation, however, to make a road near the pre«
sent track, to communicate with the Aberlour toll-road, a little
to the west of the manse at one of its extremities, and to join, at its
other extremity, the road that has lately been made in Glenrin-
nes ; as also another branch to run from Edinvillie towards the
Carron district, with the view of accommodating the western parts
of the parish. This road is anticipated with pleasure as a very
great improvement
The farmers of this parish are spirited according to their means,
and some have employed a large capital to good account
The system of husbandry adopted is much the same as that
pursued in other agricultural districts. Some years ago, the High-
land Society gave premiums for the curing of butter, to a district
embracing this and five other neighbouring parishes, and the first
and second of four prizes were adjudged to Aberlour. The patriotic
and praiseworthy exertions of this national society, in the distri-
bution of prizes for improvements in husbandry, certainly appear
to be attended with those beneficial effects at which they aim : and
it is to be hoped, that another competition, lately announced for
this quarter, will be met by the good people with that emulation
which the society has already^ in a great measure, inspired.
July 1836.
PARISH OF INVERAVEN.
PRESBYTERY OF ABERLOUR, SYNOD OF MORAY.
THE REV. WILLIAM ASHER, MINISTER-
I. — Topography and Natural History,
Namfj Extent^ and Boundaries. — This parish takes its name
from the situation of its church, which stands on the south bank
of the Spey, about a mile below the junction of the Aven with
that river. Stretching back into the Grampians towards the
sources of the Don for about 20 miles, with a breadth varying
from 3^ to 8 or 9, and lying partly in the county of Moray, but
chiefly in the county of Banff, — it is bounded on the north by the
parish of Knockando ; on the west by Cromdale and Kirkmichael ;
on the south by Strathdon, and that part of Tarland which is at«
tached thereto quoad sacra ; and on the east by Glenbucket, Ca-
brach, Mortlach, and Aberlour, — with masses of lofty mountains
intervening betwixt it and all these parishes except Knockando,
in the direction of which the Spey forms the boundary.
Topographical Appearances, — Consisting, in by much the larger
proportion, of moorland and mountain, this extensive parish has
upon the whole a bleak and barren appearance, particularly when
entering the lower end of the parish (by the toll-road) from the
east ; but along the rivers, near the banks of which both the arable
land and natural wood chiefly lie, the prospect is in general pleas-
ing, and occasionally highly picturesque and attractive. About
three miles back from, and nearly parallel to, the Spey, Caimocay,
a lofty range of mountains extending from Benrinnes to the Aven,
divides the lower part, or what may be termed Inveraven proper>
from Glenlivet, a country well known to most Scotchmen by name,
— while some six or eight miles further on, Glenlivet is itself di-
vided into nearly equal parts by the Bochle, a high hill rising up
in the centre of the valley, flanked on either hand by projecting
masses of the neighbouring mountains. These three districts,
thus divided by natural boundaries, are pretty equal in point of
extent, and have an average population of about 900. The one
124 BANFFSHIRE.
above the Bochle, though the flattest part of the parish, is called
the Braes of Glenlivet ; below it, the river, or water of Livet, as it
is generally termed, runs through the centre of the valley, and
then, though comprehending a more level district, called Morange,
diverging from the east bank of the river, the country has much
more of the characteristics of the true highland glen. In the
lower or parish church district, the Aven, which enters the pa-
rish from the south-west, and skirts Glenlivet for about a couple
of miles, flows on through a narrow strath or glen to the Spey,
from which the ascent is not so rapid, there being to the north of
Cairnocay a considerable breadth of country sloping gradually to
the mountain as well as to the river.
Benrinnes, which, though much lower than some others, is al-
ways classed among the highest mountains of Scotland, is situated
on the eastern or Aberlour boundary, towering to the height of
2763.5 feet (according to the late Government survey) above low
mater-mark* This mountain, when seen from Inveraven proper,
has rather a tame and heavy appearance, but its aspect from
Glenlivet is both imposing and majestic, — while from the top, (where
there is a small bason in the rock usually filled with water, and a
cave supposed to have been the hiding-place of James Grant of
Carron, better known by the name of James au Tuim, or James
of the hill,) the prospect is very extensive, stretching, it is said,
from Caithness to the county of Dumbarton. The other moun-
tains, both within and bounding the parish, are all of considerable
altitude, but they present little either in conformation or appear-
ance particularly deserving of notice. They consist chiefly of flat
unbroken ranges running in a southern and western direction.
Climate^ Diseases^ Sfc. — The climate is decidedly different in
each of the three districts into which nature has divided the pa-
rish, — the coldest, which is that of the Braes of Glenlivet, being
perhaps as much inferior to the climate on the river sides, in the
parish church district, as the latter is inferior to the climate of the
sea coast. Snow, the first indications of which usually manifest
themselves on the top of Benrinnes, not unfrequently lies in In-
veraven proper, as well as in the upper districts to a great depth,
interrupting field operations, and sometimes shutting up the
communication, when, at the distance of ten or fifteen miles, not
a vestige of hoary winter is to be seen ; still the climate is abun-
dantly healthy, and such as to serve in ordinary seasons for bring-
ing to maturity the fruits commonly produced in the gardens on
3
INVERAVEN. 125
the coast Vegetation, though commenciDg late, adrances rapidly
when stimulated by suranner heat, heightened by the reflection
from the mountains, and in &vourable years, of which for the last
thirteen there has been little or no interruption, the grain crops
produced even in the Braes of Glenlivet might not unfrequently
compete, both in respect of quantity and quality, with the produce
of the low districts of Banff and Moray. In the summer months,
water spouts sometimes fall, and thunder storms are very common.
No disease seems to be peculiar to the parish. Frequent cases
of cancer have occurred of late, and consumption is very common ;
but the people are in general both healthy and hardy.
Hydrography. — It is not a little singular that, in so wide and
mountainous a parish, there is no lake, with the exception of a very
small one near the Kirkmichael boundary, and within a short dis-
tance of the Aven, supposed to have been formed by that river when
running on a higher elevation than at present, which people in tho
neighbourhood describe as bottomless, and as containing ^^ a
ploughman, his plough, and a yoke of oxen." The linn of Livet^
which was the only waterfall in the parish, was destroyed some
years ago, with the view of affording free course to the few salmon
that enter that stream. Springs are numerous ; some of them
very copious, and almost all affording water of excellent quality,
though none are said to be medicinal. The most remarkable is
one at Chapelton of Kilmaichlie, in the immediate neighbourhood of
the outlines of the old chapel, mentioned in the former report, which
is cased with stones, indicating that though now visited only as an
object of curiosity, it was possibly in repute in times of old, for
common or medicinal purposes. Another spring, close by, is also
cased at the mouth, though only recently, and in imitation of
the former. — Of rivers in the parish, the most important is the
Speyt which sweeps the parish on the north-west for about seven
miles, and is said to discharge as much water as any river in Scot*
land, though, from the rapidity with which it flows, smaller in appear-
ance than ^ome others. The Aven, the largest of the Spey's tri-
butaries, though, except in floods, which usually commence twelve
or more hours earlier, producing but little perceptible increase of
it^ welters, — takes its rise from a loch of the same name lying at the
foot of the mountains of Benmacdui, Benna-maur, and Cairngo-
rum, and after flowing through the parish of Kirkmichael, for thir-
ty or thirty- five miles, ente^this parish, about seven miles from its
mouth. At Drumiuj, it receives the Livet, swollen into a considerable
126 BANFFSHIRE.
river by the tributary streams of Crombie and Tervie, the fomMTt
which is the drain of the lowest side of the country, called the
Braes of Glenlivet, falling into it at Tombia, and the latter that
of Morange and the country bordering on Glenrinnes, at Tom-
breakachie. Of the smaller slreams, the. most considerable are
Kymah, Aldregnie, Altachoylachan, and Tommore. The first, Ky«
mah, takes its rise in the mountains bounding the parish to the
south-east, and is larger at the junction than the Livet, which has
also its source in these mountains. Aldregnie falls into the Livet
at the east side of the Bochle. Altachoylachan is tributary to the
Tervie and Tommore, the chief outlet of the waters north of Cairno-
cay. The Spey is celebrated for the value of its salmon fisheries
and the quality of the fish, and also for the quantity of fir timber
annually floated on it from the forests of Abernethy and Bo-
thiemurchus ; and the Avon for its uncommon transparency,
which makes it dangerous for strangers to attempt fording, being
often many feet deep where it scarcely appears to be two, and
hence the doggerel lines.
** The water of Aven so fair aod clear.
Would deceive a man of 100 year.**
Some twenty or thirty years ago, salmon were veiy abun«
dant, both in the Aven and the Spey ; and in the latter, fish
were frequently caught in the parish upwards of thirty pounds
weight ; but now, owing to the close fishing at and towards
the mouth of the river, by means of nets and cruives, few escape,
and those reaching this are seldom to be met with above twenty
pounds weight Grilse, salmon or white trout, finnock, trout, par,
stickleback, pike, flounders, eels, and large fresh water muscles,
in which pearls of some value are sometimes to be found, are all
numerous in the Spey, and, with the exception of pike and mus-
cles, are also to be found in the Aven, which, with its tributaries,
is much superior to the Spey for trout, and, accordingly, except
for grilse and salmon, held in higher repute by the angler. The
salmon fishings on the Spey for some miles from its mouth, of
which, since the death of the late much lamented Duke of Gordon,
his Grace the Duke of Richmond is proprietor, yield a rent of from
L. 8000 to L. 10,000 a-year. In the intermediate parishes, the pro-
prietors either let them for trifling rents, or protect and retain them
for their own use ; but in this parish and farther up, they are con-
sidered of little or of no value.
Geology and Mineraloffy — The rocks throughout this parish are
supposed to be wholly of primitive formation, the most prevalent
INVEEATKf. 127
being gneiss. A veio of fed granite running towards the Spey,
and very suitable for building purposes, appears on the north side
of Benrinnes. Small portions of asbestos have also been found on
that mountain, and rock crystals occasionally in the boulder
ilones of the Aven. But the most interesting feature in the geo-
logy of this parish is the limestone of Glenlivet, which is consider-
ed by geologists as imbedded in the gneiss, and not as constitut-
ing or representing a separate formation, such as mountain lime-
stone or the like. It is of much superior quality to the secon-
dary rock, which is quarried as limestone and used for agricultural
purposes in the neighbourhood of Elgin and Forres, being of the
same description as that of Mortlach and Duthil. None has been
discovered in the parish north of Caimocay, but throughout Glen-
4ivet it may be found almost in every burn, and under every field.
No regular manufacture of lime, however, as at the great works
of Ardonald in Cairnie, and at Dufilown in the neighbour-
ing parish of Mortlach, has yet been commenced in that quar-
ter. Some of the tenants dig for themselves, but the principal
quarries are given in charge to persons who pay no rent, but who
are taken bound to sell the stones at prices proportioned to the
depth of ttr, or superincumbent soil, ranging from ^d. to l^d. the
ten stone weight, which is computed to yield one full of the old
corn firlot, or thirty-two pints of lime shells. Though there is a
trifling demand from the low end of Cromdale and the upper end of
Knockando, as well as from Inveraven proper, the chief market for
the quarried rock is found at home. Hence, lime kilns are to be seen
on almost every farm in Glenlivet, for which and for family purposes,
no small portion of time is taken up in providing peat fuel. Lime
is got in this way at less nominal expense, biit both manual and
animal labour on the farms is in consequence much increased, and
the attention of the farmer too much divested from the cultivation
of his farm and the care of his stock, to the production of a stimu-
lant, which it would be much to his advantage to procure in a ma-
nufactured state. Some years ago, a kiln was put in operation on
the Ballindalloch estate, in the immediate neighbourhood of an
inexhaustible supply of peat near the top of Cairnocay, to which
the limestone was driven up the hill from Morange in Glenlivet,
but it was soon given up, — it having been found that peat fuel is un-
adapted for the manufacture of lime on a large scale^ and that a
supply could more conveniently be procured from the works at Duff-
town in Mortlach, where it is always to be had for about nine
months of the year.
128 BANFFSHIRE.
Soil. — The soil of the parish, though occasionally thin and
moory, may, on the whole, be said to be good. At Tomalinan,
not far from the marl pit mentioned in the former report, is a bank of
land where the loam is upwards of three feet deep, said not to be
inferior to any land in Banffshire ; while on mains of Morange, and
some of the neighbouring farms, it is a strong rich clay, extreme*
ly productive in favourable seasons. In Inveraven proper, the loam
is more gravelly than in Glenlivet ; but still, as well as the haugh
land along the sides of the rivers, of a kindly nature, and in general
yielding good crops ; but a little to the east of the Aven, imme-
diately south of the toll-road, the sub*8oil is so retentive, that all
the efforts of the late and present proprietor, which have not been
few, have hitherto been unable to render productive such parts of
the district as have been brought into cultivation. The new sys-
tem of lineal drains at short distances, as yet scarcely known in
this quarter, has lately been tried on one of the fields, which, it is
hoped, will be attended with better success, and so give encourage^
ment to the cultivation and farther improvement of a district no
less offensive to the eye of the traveller than it is unproductive in
itself, and unprofitable both to the proprietor and other occupants.
Zoology, — This parish abounds in game. Partridges, moorfowl,
and common hares are very numerous, and white hares by no
means uncommon. Ptarmigan are to be met with on the moun-*
tains and in Inveraven proper, where there is also black game.
An attempt has been made, but not as yet apparently with much suc-
cess, to introduce pheasants. Roe are numerous about Ballindalloch
and in the lower part of the parish, while to the upper districts, red
deer occasionally stray from the forest of Glenfiddich, which, how-
ever, soon find their way back, or pay the forfeit of their temerity
with their lives. Foxes, weasels, and polecats are common. The
first are of a large size, and very destructive, as well as dogs, to
the lambs on the hills. Formerly, the eagle seems to have
bred near the top of Benrinnes, where the remains of a nest are
still to be seen ; but this prince of the feathered tribe has long
since deserted the lower district, and is only to be seen ia the
upper districts of the parish when occasionally extending his
flight beyond his favourite domains, of which the lofty Ben-
macdui and far-famed Cairngorum are the almost impr^nable ci-
tadels. Rooks with pure white wings have been observed, and in
the near neighbourhood (but upon the opposite side of the Spey,
in that part of the Ballindalloch estate which lies in the parish of
Knockando,) a covey of red grouse were seen, some years ago.
INVERAVEN. 129
three of them with white wings, of which a male and female were
shot, that presented a very singular appearance. Previous to the
great flood of 1829, which proved so destructive there and through-
out this parish, chaffinches and house-sparrows were very numerous
about Ballindalloch ; but of the former, though almost as numerous
as ever, few were to be seen for a year after, and not a single in^
dividual of the latter has yet made its appearance.
Wood and Plantations^ — Inveraven proper is studded in almost
all directions with plantations, which, with the natural wood, con-
sisting chiefly of birch, oak, and mountain-ash, lining the banks of
the Spey and the Avon, afford shelter, and are very ornamental ;
but with the exception of some stunted birches and alders, chiefly
in the valley of the Livet, and some fruit, forest, and ornamental
trees in the gardens and around the residences of some of the prin-
cipal inhabitants, Glenlivet, including Morange and the Braes, is
utterly destitute of wood. A clump of venerable firs, one of them
measuring eleven feet in circumference at eleven feet from the
ground, and supposed to contain 212 cubic feet of timber, height-
ens the natural beauty of the ancient place of Kilmaichlie, which,
with the old widow lady who inhabited it, and some of her domes-
tics, is so interestingly described in the 87th No. of the Lounger
by the graphic pen of the Man of Feeling. At Ballindalloch, and
almost so near as to cast their shadows on the house, stand two
splendid specimens of spruce fir, one measuring in circumference
fifteen feet at the base, and nine feet nine inches at six feet from
the ground, and the other, eleven and a-half feet at the base, and
nine feet at six feet from the ground, both apparently healthy, and
perfectly free from the aphis, to which other three of similar di**
mensions, which stood close by, fell martyrs some years ago. On
the lawn, there are also to be seen a number of very fine old hard
wood trees, among which is an ash with thirty-five feet of clear
stem, measuring in circumference fourteen feet at the base, and
nine feet at sixteen feet from the ground ; and to the west of the
house, within a few yards of the Aven, a magnificent Scotch fir,
measuring ten feet in circumference at twelve feet from the ground.
A considerable quantity of Scotch fir is nearly full grown on both
sides of the Aven, which afford roofing, deals, planks, &c. for coun-
try purposes, — while the younger plantations, both of hard wood
and larch, and Scotch fir, are of great promise, and such as to
give every encouragement to their further extension. Some of the
foreign species of pine, such as Pinus cymbray Pinus maritimay
BANFF. I
130 BANFFSHIRE.
&C. raised from seed procured from abroad, have been introduced
into the moor plantations on the Ballindalloch estate, which are
also doing well The whole wood on that property within the pa-
rish may be estimated at from 1100 to 1200 acres, of which 800
are planted, and from 300 to 400 natural. The only other plan-
tation in the parish is a thriving one, also of Scotch fir and larch,
on the small estate of Colquoich.
11. — Civil History.
Historical Events. — The battle of Altachoylachan or Glenlivet,
the most important historical event connected with this parish, has
already been so frequently described in other publications, as to re-
quire but a very cursory notice in this place.* This battle, in which
the Earl of Huntly defeated the Marquis of Argyle, was fought on
the 4th of October 1594, upon an inclined plain near the Glen-
rinnes border of the parish, terminating in a flat ridge, which de-
scends rapidly to the burn of Altachoylachan, and flanked on the
south by a somewhat precipitous shoulder of the contiguous moun-
tain. Here, on ground equally adapted for withstanding his op-
ponent, and for affording a safe retreat in the event of defeat, Ar-
gyle, who, it is allowed on all hands, had numbers on his side, wait-
ed the attack. His right, commanded by Sir John McLean, oc-
cupied the shoulder of the mountain, above alluded to, and fought
manfully — but treachery in the centre and left powerfully aided
his opponent, who had also the advantage of some pieces of artil-
lery. Besides M'Neil of Barra, Campbell of Lochnell, Argyle's
nearest heir, and his brother, to whom some also add Sir John
McLean, about 500 were slain on the side of Argyle. On Hunt-
ly's, Sir Patrick Gordon of Auchindown, Gordon of Gight, and
twelve others were killed, and a much greater number wounded,
among whom was the Earl of Errol. About three-quarters of a
mile from the scene of action, a small knoll on the east bank of
the stream Coulalt, commonly called Lord Auchindown*s cairn,
two-thirds of it swept away by the flood of 1829, marks the place
where Sir P. Gordon of Auchmdown is supposed to have died.
Somewhat more than a century subsequent to this battle, this
and the adjoining parishes found a troublesome neighbour in James
Grant, commonly called James an Tuim, as may be seen by
reference to the History of the Troubles and Memorable Trans-
actions in Scotland in the Reign of Charles I., published by John
* See Sir R. Gordon *s History of the Gordons^ also Shaw*s History of Moray, and
Brown*s History of Highlands.
INVERAVEN* 131
Spalding, coiniiussary clerk of Aberdeen, who, among other parti-
culars, gives an account of the treacherous abduction by this bar-
barian, of the young laird of Ballindalloch, during what he expect-
ed to be a friendly meeting, — whom he confined at Bauds, in the
parish of Speymouth, exposed to the greatest hardships, for the
space of twenty-one days; whence he at length escaped, in theab^
sence of James an Tuim, by having gained over Leonard Leslie, one
of his guards, with whom he conversed in Latin. * ^
Eminent Men.-— Several of the lairds of Ballindalloch, in suc-
cession, followed the military profession, and almost all of them
rose to the rank of field officers. Colonel William Qrant of Bal-
lindalloch raised one of the five companies that constituted the
Black Watch,'afterwards embodied into the 42d Regiment But
the most eminent was General James Grant of Ballindalloch, who
succeeded to the estate on the death of his nephew, Major Wil-
liam Grant, in ]770. General Grant passed the greater part of
his life in active service. He defeated Count EKEstaing, with an
inferior force, conquered St Lucia in 1779, and was for many years
Gbvernor of Florida. At the time of his death, which happened
at Ballindalloch in 1806, he was Colonel of the 1 1th Foot, and Go-«
vemor of Stirling Castle. In terms of instructions left by himself,
his remains were interred in the corner of a field on the Mains farm, (a
finvourite spot with him in his lifetime, which commands a view of
the valley of the Spey, and of the barony of Ballindalloch,) where
a mausoleum has been erected by his successor, terminating in a
handsome pillar, in which is inserted a marble slab, bearing a La-
tin inscription descriptive of his rank and appointments, as well as
of the time of his birth and death. The sloping ground to the
north and west of this field is now covered with a thriving planta-
tion, which adds not a little to its natural beauty.
* The effects of James* treachery aod cruoltyy it would appear, were not confined
to the lower district of the parish and its inhabitants. Tradition relates, that while
in eoofinement in Edinburgh Castle, observing Grant of ToqvuiTcmWn pass one day,
he called out, what news from Speyside? None very particular, rejoined his acquaint-
ance, the best is, that the countnr is rid of you. Perhaps we shall meet again, repli-
ed James. Tomnavoulen pasted on, and James was left for the time to his medita-
tions in jail, but m the end made his word good. Having escaped by means of ropes,
conveyed to him by his wife, in a cask supposed to contain butter, he called on his re-
turn to Speyside, at tlie house of Tonmayoulen in an evening, where he was invited
to pass the night. The invitation being declined, Tomnavoulen and his son were
asked in return to accompany him a little on his way. All three set out in company,
apparently on the most friendlv terms ; but they had not gone far, when the barbarian
drew his sword, slew both the rather and son, and having cut off their heads, wrapped
them in a comer of his plaid, returned to Tomnavoulen, threw them reeking with
blood into the lap of Mrs Grant, and then bade her good night.
132 BANFFSHIRE.
The father of Sir James McGregor, Bart who has so long and
so ably presided over the medical department of the British Army,
held the farm of Lynebeg in Glenlivet, and it is said that Sir James
himself was bom there.
Lcmd'-Qumers. — Within the last two centuries, the greater part
if not the whole property of this parish seems to have gone into
new hands. About 200 years ago, the Grants were proprietors of
Blairfindy ; the Stewarts, of Drumin and Kilmaichlie ; and a family
of the name of Nairn, of Moranges, — ^while a different branch of the
Grants, commonly called the Craig* Achrochcan Grants, held Bal-
lindalloch. Now the whole parish belongs to two large and one small
heritor. All the Gordon estate in this parish, which comprehends
the whole country of Glenlivet, with the exception of that part
called Morange, having with Glenfiddich, &c. in Mortlach and
Kinrara in Badenoch, been excambed for the estate of Durris in
Kincardineshire, the Duchess- Dowager of Richmond, on the^death
of her brother, George last Duke of Gordon succeeded to these
estates, as heiress of entail to the Earl of Peterborough, and so
became principal heritor of this parish. George M^Pherson Grant,
Esq. who sat in Parliament for the county of Sutherland, for about
seventeen years previous to 1826, is proprietor of Ballindalloch,
Kilmaichlie, and Morange ; and James William Grant, of Wester
Elchies, Esq. who holds a high appointment in the East Indies, is
proprietor of Colquoich, a single farm in the lower extremity of
the parish.
The real and valued rents of these heritors stand thus :
Redf. Valued.
Duchess of Richmond, - . - L. 2815 L. 2190 Scotch.
Mr M'Pherson Grant, ezclusWe of what he occupies
himself, .... 2170 1675
Mr Grant of Elchies, about ^ ^ - 10 100
Total, L. 5055 Ster. L. 3965 Scotch;
Parochial 2?^««^crs.— There are three volumes of parish regis-
ters, the oldest commencing 1630 ; but all have been imperfecta
]y kept Few of the Roman Catholics seem to have inserted their
children's births at any time ; and now, scarcely any ; and until of
late the Protestants were too negligent in recording theirs. Since
1640, no notice appears to be taken of burials.
Antiquities, — Rude stone coffins have occasionally been disco-
vered in the parish, under cairns removed to make way for the
plough ; and in trenching a wood on the farm of Kilmaichlie, the
labourers found some old arms and coins, the former so corroded
INVERAVEN. 133
as to be unworthy of preservation, the latter said to have been of
the size of half-crowns, but which, having been privately sold to a
silversmith, who has left the country, cannot now be particularly
described. Numerous traces of Druidical temples are to be found,
succeeded by almost an equal number of chapels and Christian
places of worship, of which there were one at Phona, at Nevie,
Deskie, and Chapelton of Kilmaichlie ; but no traces now remain
of any of them except the latter, the outlines of which are still
visible, with some appearances of graves close by. The burial
ground of Downan is still used, and occasionally also that of Buit-
terlach; in the near neighbourhood of which, there is a very large
cairn, supposed to be raised over the grave of a person of note.
A small spot, in a field on the farm of Haughs of Kilmaichlie,
appears clearly to have been also a place of sepulture. In order
to protect it from the sacrilegious invasion of the plough, the pre-
sent occupant of the farm has, with proper taste and feeling, caus-
ed it to be planted. At Blairfindy, are to be seen the ruins of a
hunting seat of the Earls of Huntly ; and at Drumin, on a high
promontory near the confluence of the Livet with the Aven, stands
part of the old castle of Drumin, now affording shelter only to
jackdaws and pigeons. The wall, which is of great height and
thickness, is pretty entire on the east and north, and half of the
west side ; but the other half of the west and the whole south wall
are gone, and the stability of a considerable part of what remains of
the structure seems to rest on a single stone of a few inches in
diameter, placed in a curious position on its edge, and not on what
builders call the bed.
The house of Ballindalloch, the residence of the proprietor,
and, it is said, one of the most perfect specimens extant of the
old Scottish castle, may also be classed among the antiquities
of the parish. This large structure consists of a square build-
ing flanked by three circular towers, — the centre one, which is
the lai^est, containing the ancient door and turnpike stair, sur-
mounted by a square watch-tower termed the ^^ Cape House,"
with a window to each of the four sides, and an aperture in the
wall immediately above the entrance, so as to admit of boiling lead
or other missiles being thrown down, in the event of the enemy
making good his approach. Over the chimney, in one of the rooms,
is carved 1546. The Cape House seems to have been added by Pa-
trick Grant in 1602, and about the beginning of last century a fur-
ther addition was made of two large and commodious wings. This mas*
134 BANFFSHIRE.
sy and irregular-looking structure is situated ^ little to the east of
the A?en, and about half-a-mile from its confluence with the Spey,
upon a low flat haugh of a triangular shape richly wooded, having
Qiirnocay in the distance on the south, the Ayen, clear as crystal^
and lined with wood, on the west, the Spey henomoied in by moon**
tains on the north, and on the east a magnificent bank (embracing
Craig- Achrochcan) covered with wood of many varieties, producing
altogether a scene not often to be surpassed even in the Highlands.
A little farther up the river, upon the edge of the high ground,
and near a small stream called the Castle stripe, are to be seen the
traces of a large building said to have been the old castle or man*-
sion-house of Ballindalloch, where tradition says it would have
still stood, had not the rebuilding been prevented by unseen agencyy
— the part built in the day-time having been always thrown down
through the night : at length a voice was heard saying, ^' build in the
•Cow Hai^h, and you shall meet with no interruption." The re*
commendation was followed, and the house of Ballindalloch conse-
quently raised in its present situation, where it has long stood un-
assailed by the invisible adversary of its predecessor, but exposed
by times to a real and little less formidable one, the Aven. The
most recent as well as the most destructive visit it received firom
this neighbour, happened at the great flood of 1829.*
III. — Population.
In 1755 d>« peculation amounted to 2464
1766, . . . . 220O
1779 ... 2244
180j', males 101$, ftmalea 1242, together, 2260
* To remedy the desolation occasioned at Ballbdalloch by thu floods the aspect of
which was truly appalling, appeared almost a hopeless task; nevertheless the attempt
was made without delay, and with entire success, the place having some years ago as-
sumed its wpntcd attractive appearance, and even become, in the opinion of many,
prettier than before. Some old trees are indeed awanting, and a field or two may be
deteriorated or circumscribed ; still other trees have been planted, pits have been filled
up, roots and stumps of trees and gravel cleared, the garden, which till then was dote
to the house, moved to a suitable distance, the lawn levelled, trenched, and laid out
anew ; and in addition to all this, and at an expense little less than that of all the other
operations together, an embankment has been raised along the Aven, from its junction
with the Spey to the rocks at the upper end of the lawn, a distance of about 1 500
yards, fhced with stones keyed, that is, neatly set in after the end or edge to the level
of the field, and then raised three or four feet with earth, partly turfed, and partly
made green by grass grown from the seed. Great attention is bestowed, after floods,
in examining this beautiful and substantial embankment, and in repairing breaches,
which seldom, if ever, occur except by the fidGng of the river to a lower level. For
this purpose, baskets made of rough planks^ or split trees nailed together in the shape
of a paraUek^ram, and filled with hu*ge stones, have been of great use. A line of these
baskets or creels f as they are called, has been found more efiectual in opposing the
river than any other obstacle hitherto employed ; and by their aid, the embankment
has, without the smallest apparent diminution of its strength or ceatnesR, been under-
founded for a long way, pairt of it to the dqjth of nearly six feet, so as to suit the bed
•f the river, which is deepened here and there by almost every flood.
INTERAVBN. 135
1821, males 1 ISO; females 1360, together, 2492
1831, males 1283, females 1365, together, 2648
1B36, .... 2707
From the above table it will be seen that the population, which seems
to have fallen off for ten years subsequent to Dr Webster's report,
has since been gradually increasing, — the most marked increase
being within the last few years ; in the course of which, the habits
of ihe people have undergone a great change to the better* Pre-
vious to the passing of the Act of Parliament, in 1823, for the en-
couragement of legal distillation in the Highlands of Scotland, the
inhabitants of Glenlivet almost without an exception, and many
also in the parish church district, were more or less engaged in.
manufacturing and carrying to market smuggled whisky ; but the
energetic measures taken by Government for the suppression of
smuggling have proved eminently successful here ; the male po-
pulation, instead of prowling over the country in search of a mar-
ket for their whisky, and being constantly on the watch to elude
the eye of officers of excise, are now happily and successfully em-
ployed in the cultivation of farms, or in prosecuting hwodicrafts ;
— ^while the females, who were in the habit of spending no small
portion of their time, by night as well as by day, in the bathie^ —
a prey to the licentious and immoral, — are now more safely and
suitably employed in domestic occupations, or in performing such
portions of field labour as fall to the lot of their sex, in the best
cultivated and most civilized districts of the country.
There is only one family of independent fortune which lives in
the parish, and that only for half the year. Some have large hold-
ings, and most are in easy circumstances for their station in life.
Oottars, that is, subtenants who hold houses and kail-yards from
the principal tenant,' are sometimes thickly set down; but there
is no village within the parish. The great bulk of the population
are engaged in agricultural pursuits, though there is a due propor-
tion of tradesmen to supply the wants of a rural district Towards
the borders of Kirkmichael and Cromdale, Graelic is spoken by a
few ; but it is fast dying out, and the number who either speak or
understand it, is becoming smaller every year.
IV. — Industry.
Agriculture. — Of late, the agriculture of this parish has made
rapid progress. Some time ago, black oats, a species of grain now
scarcely to be seen, were very common. Then, the aid of lime
was rarely sought, and, except at Ballindalloch and a few other
places, two-horse ploughs and improved implements of husbandry
136 BANFFSHIRE.
were not used ; but now, these and the best system of fanning have
found their way to all quarters. Not only is the old arable land,
in consequence, in general well farmed, but a great extent of waste
land has been brought into cultivation. On the Ballindalloch es-
tate, the proprietor is usually at the expense of main drains when
required, or allows for land improved L. 5 per acre to the tenant,
(who is thus enabled to purchase lime,) on his agreeing to pay inte-
rest at 5 per cent, during the lease; and it is an injudicious im-
provement which does not in this way turn out advantageous both
to landlord and tenant. But, notwithstanding such encouragement,
the progress of improvement is much retarded in the parish church
district, by the quantities of stones, either partly above or imme-
diately under thie surface, which create an expense in the removal,
in general much greater than that of trenching. But in Glenli-
vet, where there are comparatively few stones, the reclaiming of
waste land is going on at a rapid rate, being on an average, on
the Gordon estate alone, at the rate of 100 acres annually, or
about 2000, in the course of the nineteen years' lease. Few of the
farmers keep more than two or three horses in the low end of the
parish ; but in Glenlivet there are some very extensive farms ; — ^and
on them, the system of cropping and manuring the fields, and the
general mode of management, can scarcely be surpassed. The
example of these more skilful and opulent tenants being readily imi-
tated in the neighbourhood, the advantage of liming and proper ro-
tation is now universally felt; and consequently, good farming may
be seen throughout the parish, with very few exceptions, not only
on every farm but on every croft
Bent of Land. — The number of acres arable on the Gordon es-
tate, and their average rent, cannot at present be stated. Ballin-
dalloch estate, 2200 acres, average rent about L. 1 per acre. Cul-
quoich do., about 70 acres, average rent about L. 1 per acre.
Oats constitute the staple grain of the country, — the most com-
mon being of the early Angus, and sundry varieties. Barley or Scots
bear is usually sown after green crop. Very little wheat is raised ;
but, even in the low end of Glenlivet, it grows of excellent quality
in favourable seasons, and has been known to weigh 55 lb. per
bushel.
Stock, — Though none of the Clydesdale breed have found
their way to the parish, many of the horses are strong and ac-
tive, and in general better adapted than those of a larger size, to
the nature of the country, the state of the roads, the quality of
INVERAVEN. 13T
their food^ and the quantity of work for which they are intend-
ed*
The black-cattle of the more wealthy have a considerable dash
of West Highland blood, and are in general handsome and well
kept At Ballindalloch, those bred are a cross betwixt Buchan
cows and a Highland bull, which produces large fine animals; the
three year old stots, when in good driving condition, having of late
sold, in the month of July, for three years running, at L. 13 each.
But the black-cattle in general throughout the parish, bred with-
out much attention to the selection either of bulls or cows, and kept
in numbers quite disproportioned to the food, which is often un-
palatable as well as scanty, are equally destitute of symmetry, of
size, and of flesh. With the view of improving this species of stock
in this and some neighbouring parishes, the Highland and Agri-
cultural Society now offers premiums ; but until the number of
cattle is better proportioned to the quantity of the food, and the
smaller farmers begin in consequence to feel an improvement in
their growth and prices, neither premiums nor any thing else will
be found to remedy the evil.
This parish, notwithstanding the range of mountain and ex*
tent of waste ground, is not much adapted for sheep-farming.
With the exception of a few of English extraction, kept on infield, the
sheep are mostly of the black-faced breed, and in general stunted in
their growth. Deriving their food chiefly from the hills which are
attached to the farms, in general in undivided common, they soon
deteriorate, when imported from other quarters ; and hence the
more judicious and wealthy farmers have, almost without excep-
tion, given over keeping this description of stock.
Farm Buildings. — Though there is abundance of room for im-
provement, both in respect to arrangement and construction in the
farm-steadings, yet this parish does not seem to be, in this respect,
behind any in the neighbourhood. Many excellent slated dwel-
ling-houses two stories high, are to be seen in Glenlivet with good
out-houses. Those at Wester Deskie, which are very extensive,
are the admiration of strangers, who in general go to the district,
expecting to see little else than bothiesj — and would attract atten-
tion in any part of the country.
Manufactures. — Instead of the smuggling houses, formerly to
be found on almost every streamlet, besides one in progress of
erection, there are two legal distilleries in Glenlivet, where whisky
is produced of the very best quality, and always commanding a
138 BANFFSHIRE.
great demand and high price : — one at Auchttrachan, about the
centre of the glen, as lately enlarged, gives employment to fourmen,
consumes wedily about 160 bushels of malt made (rom bear, which
yields dOO gallons of spirits, and about L. 45 of duties* The other
is at upper Drumio, nearer the Avon. The proprietor of the former
has also a distillery in Buchan; but he finds, after the most careful
and repeated trials, that, with the same hands and materials, he can-
not produce a spirit equal to what he obtains in Glenlivet For the
latter, of which he never knows what it is to have a stock, there is
a demand to all quarters of the world — its fame as well as quality
being equal to that of any smuggled whisky. The chief market,
however, is among private families, though even spirit-dealers rea-
dily allow 6d* per gallon more than for the whisky distilled in
Buchan.
There are in the parish, 5 meal, 2 barley, 1 lint, I saw, and 2
carding or wool mills, — but no public kiln, the grain being usually
dried on the owner's or a neighbour's kiln. The other manufac-
tures of the parish scarcely deserve notice, being chiefly confined
to woollen cloths and plaidings made by the small farmers who
keep sheep.
V. — Parochial Economy.
M€iT}iet-toumi. — Tomantoul and Charleston of Aberlour, both
market villages, lie at the distance of about three miles, the former
from the upper, and the latter from the lower end of the parish.
Grantown and Dufftown are also within reach of many of the inha-
bitants ; but the nearest market-towns of any note are Elgin, to
which there are two carriers who go weekly, and Keith. The dis-
tance to each of these places from the church is about twenty
miles ; but a considerable proportion of the supplies of the lower
district and of almost the whole of Glenlivet comes from Aberdeen,
with which there is constant intercourse, by means of carriers resi-
dent in Keith and in the parish, who bring out groceries, cloths,
hardwares, &c. &c partly for private families, and partly to be sold
by the merchants of the parish, who are to be found in all quar-
ters, and who take back, in return, cheese, butter, eggs, &c
Roads. — The parish is crossed, in the lower end, by four miles of
toll-road, which is too steep at both extremities, continued from the
bridge of Aven by about two miles of Parliamentary road, which is
steep also, but always kept in excellent repair. And in Glenliv^,itis
crossed by a tolerable county road leading from Dufftown to Tamin-
toul. The two principal heritors joined, some years ago, in making
INVERAVEN. 139
a good road, each carrying it on, upon his own property,— -lead-
ing by the east side of Aven to Glenlivet and Kirkmichael, which
has proved of the utmost advantage in opening up the communica-
tion with these places. There are also a pretty good road, some
miles up the Aven on the west side, and a couple of similar branch
ones from the toll-road towards the Spey ; but, with the exception
of the approaches to Ballindalloch and the church, there is scarce-
ly another mile of good or even passable road in the parish.
Bridges, S^c — The number of bridges in the parish is but small,
compared to its extent and its wants. The old one over the Livet
at upper Downan, mentioned in the former report, having been al-
most destroyed by the flood of 1829, a fine new arch was built, last
year, on a more eligible site some hundred yards farther down the
stream ; and the one at Tomnavoulen, about three miles higher up,
which was also so much destroyed by the flood of 1829 as to be of
no use except for foot-passengers, has recently undergone repair.
On the Ballindalloch portion of the new Avenside road, there is a
very handsome arch over the rapid bum of Tommore. The only
other bridge of any consequence, is that at Craig- Achrochcan over
the Aven, mentioned in the former report. Neither of the two latter
received any injury from the great floods of 1829. On the Spey,
there is no bridge on either hand, nearer than those at Grantown and
Craigellachie, which are about twenty-four miles asunder ; nor is
there any good ford either in this or the neighbouring parish of
Knockando, the best being that at Balnellan, which is very deep.
Besides several private, there are two public boats, — one at Blacks-
boat, and the other at Balnellan, immediately above the mouth of
the Aven.
No public coaches pass through, or are in any way connected
with the parish. One was tried some years ago, from Keith to Gran-
town, but it did not succeed. The mails are carried daily from
Keith and Craigellachie to Bridge of Aven, where there is a re^
gular post-office, called Ballindalloch, with a subsidiary one at
Drumin ; from whence, there is a runner three times a wedc to To~
mintoul. Letters to Grantown are sent by Keith, where they lie
from ten to twelve hours, and are carried upwards of seventy miles,
to save the paltry expense of a direct post for fourteen miles.
Ecclesiastical State. — Previous to the Reformation, Inveraven was
a parsonage dedicated to St Peter, and the seat of the Chancellor
of the diocese, having the vicarages of Knockando and Urquhart
140 BANFFSHIRE.
in Inverness-shire dependent on it The church, which was built
in 1806, is in good repair, but very inconveniently situated on the
Spey boundaries of the parish. Intended for the accommodation
of the Protestants in Glenlivet, as well as the ordinary congrega^
tion at the communion, it is seated for 550, and may contain about
600, being only about 150 less than the whole population of the
parish church district A good many seats being in consequence
empty, on ordinary occasions, strangers may be led to supjpose that
the people frequent other places of worship ; but this is by no
means the case, there being scarcely ten in the lower district who
are not in the habit of attending the parish church. There is
no chapel of ease in the parish, but a mission on the Royal boun-
ty has been in operation in Glenlivet for upwards of 100 years.
At Achbreck, a distance of about nine miles, there is a substantial
but rather confined chapel, rebuilt in 1825, at the joint expense
of the heritors and the people, where the missionary usually
preaches ; but once in six weeks, he goes to Achnara, in the Braes,
to officiate on Sundays. In the parish church, the seats which are
undivided, are all free. In the chapel at Achbreck, a very few seats
are let, by such as have more room than their &milies require ; but
the great proportion there are free also. In accordance with the
practice in the presbytery, the people in the church district and
the Protestants in Glenlivet, are cathechised twice a year — once in
summer, preparatory to the communion, and again in autumn or
spring. At the parish church, there are 237 communicants, at
Achbreck also 237. Since the grant was obtained, for dispensing
the sacrament of the Lord's supper at Achbreck, the Protestants in
Glenlivet have given up attending that ordinance in the parish
church.
In Glenlivet, where about three-fifths of the people are of the
Roman Catholic persuasion, there are two Roman Catholic cha-
pels, — the one at Tombia, pretty fer up the glen, — ^the other at
Chapelton, in the Braes of Glenlivet The former is a large
building capable of containing from 800 to 1000 persons, — but on-
ly partly finished : the latter contains about 300.
The manse, which was built in 1775, received a handsome and
commodious addition in 1834, and is now one of the best in the
country. It is situated within a few yards of the church. The
glebe consists of only about 4 acres of arable land, and pasture
grass scarcely sufficient for the summer keep of one cow. The sti-
INVEEAVEN. 141
pend was modified in 1821 at 15 chalders ; and there are still about
L. 100 Sterling of free teind.
The itinerant preacher in Glenlivet has L. 60 a-year, and L. 5 for
furnishing communion elements; and, besides an allowance for
peats, he has a> small farm on the Gordon estate, rent free, in lieu of
a crofi, with the privilege of a range of hill pasture for sheep.
TheRoman Catholic priests are chiefly supported by their hear-
ers ; both possess farms at moderate rents, and the one officiating at
Chapelton has h, 20 a-year, from funds provided by the Abb^
Mcpherson. Bishop Kyle, who resides at Pressholm, in the parish
of Rathven, is the Roman Catholic bishop of the district
Schools. — The only school in the church district, is the parish
school, where the average attendance of scholars is, in summer, 44,.
and in winter, 53. In Glenlivet, there are 4 Protestant schools ; 3
of them male and one female ; and 3 Roman Catholic schools, 1 male
and 2 female. The Roman Catholic seminary or college there, men-
tioned in the former report, was moved in 1799 to Achertes, near
Aberdeen. Of the male Protestant teachers,'one has asalary from the
Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, another from the Ge-»
neral Assembly's Committee for Highland Schools, and the third a
small one of L. 5 from the Gordon estate, — and from the same quar-
ter the Protestant female teacher has L. 5 a*year, in addition to a
similar sum allowed by the Society for Propagating Christian Know-
ledge. The Roman Catholic male, and one of the female teachers
have each L. 10 a-year from funds provided by the Abbe M*Pherson ;
the other has also a small salary. The General Assembly's and So-
ciety's teachers have houses and gardens ; and, with the exception of
the female one, are also provided with peats, by the inhabitants of the
district in which they labour, or are allowed an equivalent. The paro-
chial schoolmaster has a good house and garden, and besides his
fees, which may average about L. 1 1 a year, and the emoluments
of the session clerkship, he has a salary of L. 28, 17s. 5d., and a
share of the Dick bequest.
Some few parishioners may still be found who are unable to
read and write, but their number is gradually decreasing. The
schools are well attended, and the people are fiiUy alive to the be-
nefits of education, and ready to avail themselves of the means of
it, which are now fortunately within their reach : only a female
school is much wanted in the parish church district. At the Pro-
testant schools in Glenlivet, a number of Roman children are in at-
tendance who read the Bible, and are engaged promiscuously with
142 BANFFSHIRE.
the Protestant children in all the other exercises of the school, with
the exception of committing to memory the Assembly's Shorter
Catechism and the Protestant version of the Pisalois.
Poor.— The Protestant poor manifest no undue desire to become
a burden on the funds ; nor do they consider it a degradation to
receive aid from them, when standing in need of it The number
on the roll is 40, and each, on the average for the year, receives in
quarterly instalments about 17s. The fund for their relief (which
received an accession some years ago by a bequest of L. 50, made
by Sir William Grant of Bildornie, who for many years held the
high appointment of Master of the Rolls,) arises chiefly from col-
lections at the church and Protestant chapel, and the interest of a
small sum laid out at interest The Roman Catholic poor, who only
receive a share of any extraordinary gift to the funds of the parish,
may be said to be supported by those of their own persuasion, who
make collections for them at their chapels.
Fairs. — There are four feirs held within the parish, a Uttle to
the east of the church, in the course of the year, for the sale of
cattle, horses, grain, &c. and where engagements are entered into
betwixt the frirmers and their servants, for the harvest and half year.
Inns, Spe. — In the parish church district, there are only two public-
houses, — one of them an excellent inn. In Glenlivet, there are no
fewer than nine public-houses, — a number quite disproportioned to
the district, for which four or five would be quite sufficient
FueL — Moss, as may naturally be supposed, is to be met with, in
all parts of the parish. Towards the mountains, it is in gene-
ral black, and of excellent quality for fuel ; but in the lower and
river side parts of the country, it is much exhausted, or of such bad
quality, that some of the more opulent give a preference, except
for the kitchen, to EngUsh coals driven from Garmouth, a distance
to some of more than thirty miles.
General Observations.
The parish, within the last forty years, has undergone a very
great change, in respect to the improving and planting of waste
ground, and the state of roads, bridges, agriculture and buildings;
but, by far the most important change is that which has taken place
in the habits of the people, since the suppression of smugglmg. The
improvements which seem, at present, to be most wanted, are bet-
ter marches, and greater encouragement for formers to enclose by
means of dikes and ditches, as well as for crofters to settle on the
mooors, in order to check the tide of emigration ; bridges over
INVERAVEN. 14^
the Tervay, Crombie, and smaller streams ; cross roads in all di*
rectioDs, and a main one from Tomnavoulen to Achnara, round the
country called Braes of Olenlivet, (which is utterly destitute of roads, )
with a branch from Tomalinan to Tarointoul, and another, MpractU
cable^ to Glenbucket or Strathdon, — ^the present thoroughfare to the
latter being only a pass so steep as to have obtained the very ap-
propriate name of the Ladder. The much-talked-of line of road
(which is nearly complete in this parish) from Perth to Elgin and
Forres, with a bridge over the Spey at Tomdow, would also be
highly beneficial to the parish. But the improvement which, above
all others, is most to be desired, is the erection of a parish in the
country of Glenlivet, which would be felt as a mighty boon by the
Protestants, and which could not fail to be of great benefit to all
the people. The conflicting nature of religious profession there
is an evil whose consequences are deeply felt ; and dram-drink-
ing and illegitimate births, though both considerably on the decrease,
are still too frequent. Yet, with the machinery of a parish under
the guidance of a faithful and judicious clergyman, in the full en-
joyment of the status and emoluments of a parish minister, — it
might be hoped that, under the Divine blessing, the whole inhabi-
tants of Glenlivet, disposed as they are, readily to avail themselves
of the means of religious and moral instruction, which they enjoy,
would gradually be improved ; and that this beautiful and sequester-
ed country would ere long become, what nature seems to have in-
tended it to be, the enviable abode of religion, of happiness, and
of virtue.
August 1836.
BANFV*
PARISH OF ALVAH.
PRESBYTERY OP TURRIFF, SYNOD OF ABERDEEK,
THE REV. ANDREW TODD, MINISTER.
I, — Topography and Natural History.
Name^ Extent^ Boundaries. — Alyau and the adjoining parish
of Forglen were originally united ; but before the middle of the
seventeenth century, they were erected into separate parishes. In
the most ancient manuscripts and printed records connected with
the parish, the name, Alvah, is found to occur with the varied or-
thographies, Mvetkj Alvethe^ Alvechty AlvechUy Alvachy AUwach
Alwach and Avauch ; but, after the most diligent inquiry, the
writer has been unable to form any probable conjecture in regard
to its etymological meaning. The parish extends in length about 6
English miles ; and at its greatest breadth, to nearly the same dis-
tance ; but in some places, to little more than two. In Robertson's
map of the counties of Aberdeen, Ban£f, and Kincardine, published
in 1822, the superficial extent of the parish is estimated at ll,2d2
imperial acres, or 17 § square miles; but, according to the most
accurate information which the writer could obtain, the superficial
extent is only 1 1,133 imperial acres, being 149 acres under the ex«
tent given in the map. On the north and north-west, Alvah is
bounded by the parish of Banfi*; on the south-west, by Marnoch ;
on the south, by Forglen ; on the south-east, by Turriff; and on
the east and north-east by King-Edward and Gamrie.
Topographical Appearances. — The highest elevations in the pa-
rish are the hill of Alvah and the hill of Maunderlea. The for-
mer, according to Robertson's map, rises, near the northern extre-
mity, to the height of 578 feet above the level of the sea, while the
latter, situated on the confines of the parish, nearly four miles
south-west of the former, has on the same authority, 1 55 feet of
superior elevation. Both hills are rather steep towards the north,
but of more easy ascent on the sides more distant from the sea.
ALVAH. 145
The hill of Alvah stands apart from any other considerable or
immediate elevation ; but the hill of Maunderlea, proceeding in a
northerly direction from the parish of Marnoch, is connected with
a series of minor elevations, which are scattered over the western
and south-western division of the parish, and which give to this dis-
trict a bleak and hilly appearance, strikingly contrasted with the
woodland scenery which adorns the sloping sides of the hill of Al-
vah, and the rich and fertile lands which encircle its base. From
the summit of this latter hill, the view is extensive, varied, and pic-
turesque, and on an unclouded evening of summer, cannot be con-
templated but with the most pleasing emotions. Towards the
east,, as far as the eye can reach, appears a large portion of the
level, naked, and, comparatively speaking, uninteresting district of
Buchan, having its otherwise monotonous aspect relieved, how*
ever by the bold and projecting headlands of Gamrie and Troup,
which rise in frowning majesty along its shore ; on the south is be-
held the Doveran flowing along between banks of the most fertile
description, and here and there adorned with gentlemen^s seats
embowered amid thriving plantations,-— the well known mountains
of Bennochie, the Buck of the Cabrach, and further to the south-
west, Belrinnes, appearing with imposing dignity along the line of
the distant horizon. Looking in the direction of the north, the spec-
tator beholds spread out, as it were, on a map below him, the pic-
turesque and highly embellished scenery, amid which stands con-
spicuous. Duff House, the classical and magnificent mansion of
the Earl of Fife, — the Doveran winding amid the surrounding woods
in many a tortuous maze, as if loth to quit so fair a scene, and at
length flowing into the ocean at Banff, which, together with the
adjoining bay, is from this eminence distinctly visible ; while, far in
the west and north-west, are seen relieved against the evening sky,
the fantastic forms of the Caithness hills, behind which the sun
is setting, and is throwing a parting gleam of molten gold across
the broad bosom of the Moray Frith, the whole of which is stretch-
ed out before the spectator in mellow and unbroken repose, save
where here and there is espied the white sail of some distant vessel.
The river Doveran may be considered as the natural boundary
of Alvah on the east, although the estates of Inverichny and Dun-
lugas are situated on its eastern bank. This river, while within
the parish of Alvah, flows nearly from south to north, and, includ-
ing its numerous and beautiful vnndings, has a course of more than
six miles in length. Where it enters the parish, it flows between
146
BANFFSHIRE.
the estates of Dunlugas and Montblairy, the proprietors of both
of which have elegant mansions on its banks, surrounded with ex-
tensive and thriving plantations. Below the estate of Dunlugas,
on the eastern bank of the river, a part of the parish of King- Ed-
ward intervenes, and at the distance of a mile and a half farther
down, lies the estates of Inverichny on the same side. On the
opposite side, below Montblairy, are situated, in succession, the
lands of Auchenbadie, Sandlaw, and a small part of the barony of
Alvah. Before the Doveran leaves the parish, the scenery on
either side becomes strikingly bold and picturesque. The ground
rises to the north, presenting a rocky barrier, as if to intercept the
progress of the stream. In this barrier, afler diverting it from its
northerly direction for more than a mile, a narrow chasm, as if by
some great convulsion of nature, has been opened through the
rocks for the reception of the water. Here the rocky and preci-
pitous sides of the chasm are joined by a majestic arch, ♦ which
has more the appearance of a Roman structure than of a work of
modern times. The chasm immediately under the bridge is only
27 feet wide, while the depth of the water is 56 feet, and from the
top of the parapet to the surface of the water, the height is 55^
feet The scenery at the bridge of Alvahf is much and justly ad-
mired ; but it is not easy by words to give any precise and accu-
rate idea of its beauties. Immediately to the north of the bridge,
the rocks start back, as it were, into a sort of amphitheatre, rising,
m some places, almost a hundred feet above the water, and clothed,
fringe.d, and festooned with the most beautiful and diversified tints,
arising from the luxuriant intermixture of trees, shrubs, lichens,
and mosses. The water below is collected into an extensive, deep,
and dark-looking basin, exhibiting, on ordinary occasions, no ap-
pearance of life or of motion, save when momentarily agitated by
the splash of the leaping salmon. Farther north, and yet higher
up, arises the hill of Montcolfer, stretching away to a great dis-
tance, clothed to its top with firs, and forming the back-ground of
the picture. The whole scene is of a solemn and secluded na-
ture, and the sounds which most frequently break in on its gloomy
stillness, are the scream of the heron, and the hoarse note of the
raven. Farther down, the stream is again contracted by a suc-
cession of shaggy rocks and steep wooded banks, between which it
* This bridge was erected in 1772 by the late Earl James Fife,
t An engraving of the bridge of Alvah may be seen in the Annual entitled
Friendahip'k Offering, for 1832.
ALVAH. 147
urges its winding way for nearly a mile, when it becomes the east-
ern boundary * of the parish of Banff, at the distance of about two
miles from the sea. From the bridge of Al\rah, downwards, art has
everywhere been successfully exerted to add beauty to the gran-
deur of nature. The summits of the rocks and steep banks of the
river are clothed with a striking variety of forest trees, either
tastefully disposed for effect, or studiously adapted to their conge-
nial soils, while, from the rocky crevices below, springs a rich pro-
fusion of wild flowers and shrubs, that dip their pensile branches in
the stream. But this scene, at all times beautiful and romantic,
assumes only its character of homble grandeur when the river is
swollen in a flood. On such an occasion, the narrow chasm at the
bridge of Alvah, being insufficient to admit the augmented stream,
the waters are repelled by the opposing crags, and flow backwards
for nearly two miles along the stream, and, in many places, ex-
tend for more than a quarter of a mile over the adjacent fields.
When this mighty lake and the roused-up river, pour their waters
over the opposing rocks at the entrance of the gorge above the
bridge, and when the tortured stream is thence thrown down with
resistless force into the narrow gap beneath the arch, where ^^ it
boils, and wheels, and foams, and thunders through,'' a scene is
presented of such mingled beauty and horror, that, to convey an
adequate conception of it, might require the combined powers of
a Claude and a Salvator.
Hydrography. — This parish abounds with perennial springs of the
purest soft water, and contains also several excellent chalybeates.
The most remarkable fountain of the first class is called Comes^well
. — a name which occurs in a charter dated more than 500 years
ago. This fountain rises on the farm of Tipperty, at the northern
base of the hill of Alvah, and is as remarkable for its magnitude
as for the excellence of its water. It throws out twenty-seven im-
perial gallons in a minute, and when tried by the hydrometer ap-
pears only a shade heavier than water distilled. It has long been
envied by the people of Banff, but has never yet been conducted
thither, although such a scheme has been frequently contemplated.
Many other fountains, of similar quality, spring from the base of
the same hill, but none of them rise far up its sides. The tem-
perature of the numerous springs within the parish ranges from
* By aomei tlie parish is said to extend downwards, along the course of the river,
until within a very short distance of the cruive dyke ; others are of opinion that ita
northern boundaiy is only a few hundred yards below the bridge.
148 BANFFSHIRE.
45° to 46^ of Fahrenheit, with the exception of the well at Kern-
plemire, of which the temperature is as high as 50^. The forma-
tion of calcareous concretions has been ascribed to drinking from
this last-mentioned fountain ; but from a recent chemical analysis,
the water does not appear to be distinguished by any quality pro-
ductive of such a disorder. — None of the chalybeates are worthy of
particular notice, with the exception of the Red Gill well on the
hill of Brownside, and a spring rising on the Hill-head of Mont-
blairy. Each of these has been found to hold a greater quantity
of iron in solution, than either the Red-well in Boyndie, or the well
of Tarlair in Gamrie. From a qualitative analysis recently ob-
tained, it appears that the Red Gill well contains a large quantity
of the protoxide of iron held in solution by excess of carbonic
acid, with an average quantity of chloride of sodium, carbonate
and sulphate of lime. The Hill-head spring contains fully as large
a quantity of iron as the former, held in solution as a protoxide by
excess of carbonic acid, with rather less carbonate and sulphate of
lime, but with fully as much salt. The writer has obtained ansT-
lyses of several of the other springs, but the results are marked by
no peculiarity worthy of insertion. The whole of the springs ap-
pear to arise, in general, between the clay-slate and greywacke,
which constitute the prevailing rocks within the parish.
The only river is the Doveran, which has only three tributaries
of any consequence within the parish. Two of these flow from
west to east, and join the river at Auchenbadie and Mill of Mont-
blairy, the other flows from east to west, and joins the river at
Boat of Ashoagle. The breadth of the Doveran varies from 90
to 320 feet
Geology and Mineralogy.''^ — This parish presents but few fea-
tures interesting in a geological point of view. The surface, al-
though varied and irregular, and raised up into small hills and
rising grounds, and intersected by hollows and chasms, yet affords
but an occasional view of the solid strata. In the higher grounds,
and in those places where the soil has been opened up, and quar-
ried for building, the solid strata are occasionally discovered, but
in other places they are covered up by deep diluvial beds, the
thickness of which it would be difficult to determine. The hol-
lows, ingeneral, are not traversed by any stream of magnitude
sufficient to disclose the nature of the adjacent rocks : hence our
* For this section, and for inlbrmation on other points connnected with Uiis re-
port, the writer has to acknowledge his obligations to James Christie, Esq. Banff.
ALVAH. 149
report upon this head has been attended with more difficulty than
was at first anticipated. Enough, however, has been seen to af-
ford sufficient evidence of the structure and superposition of the
solid strata.
The direction of the strata is from north-east to south-west, or
perhaps, where. the strata have been more than usually deranged,
varying a point or two nearer the south on the one hand, and the
north on the other; and the dip is to the north-west and south-
east at right angles to the direction. The eastern side of the pa-
rish is watered by the river Doveran, the banks of which, and the
lower grounds, are a deep alluvial loam, resting on a bed of blue
clay, intermixed with clay-slate, in broken fragments and in a state
of dissolution. Indeed, it appears to me, that the bed of blue
clay on which the alluvial and vegetable soils rest, is almost whoU
ly a formation arising from the disintegration and dissolution of
the clay-slate on which they are reposing. The vegetable soil on
the lower grounds of the other parts of the parish is also reposing
on a bed of diluvial coarse clay, and occasionally intermiied with
thin veins or beds of ferruginous sand, shingle, and water^worn
boulders ; and on the higher grounds, around the hills of Tipper-
ty, Alvah, &c. the soil reposes on beds of sand and shingle, inter-
mixed with fragments of greywact^e slate, &c. These are resting,
throughout the whole parish, on a bed of clay-slate, which again
is resting on a bed of greywacke, and on which the clay-slate lies
in a conformable position, and in its lower strata following the
windings of that mineral, with which, at their junction, the grey-
wacke passes into greywacke slate, and for some distance alter-
nates with the clay-slate. The greywacke is intersected with
thin veins of quartz, the greatest thickness of which may be about
four or five inches. These veins ramify through the mass, dimi*
nisbing in size till they totally disappear. The angle of elevation
of the clay-slate is different at different places. Towards the top
of the hill of Alvah, the clay-slate is standing almost vertical; but
on descending the hill the angle diminishes, and in the lower
grounds, where the strata are less deranged, it is found almost ho-
rizontaU I cannot, with certainty, determine the existence of any
fault or dike by which the strata are deranged. The upper bed
of the hill of Tipperty, toward the base, is clay-slate, but towards
the top of the hill, coarse mica-slate passing into secondary gneiss
crops out ; but we are unable to determine the strata on which
these last repose.
150 BANFFSIHRE.
Rolled blocks were formerly common throughout the parish ;
but on the surface of the cultivated ground most of them have
yielded to an improved husbandry long ago. A few blocks of
greywacke, similar to the rocks in sitUj are still to be seen on the
waste and rising grounds, between the farms of Clayfolds and
Sandlaw ; and on the hill of Maunderlea, on the south-western
boundary of the parish, a number of rolled blocks of granite,
coarse mica-slate, gneiss, quartz, and trap, are still to be seen on
the surface, and many similar are found deeply imbedded in the
soil. Various blocks of sandstone are also intermixed, of a coarse
and hard texture, altogether different from any sandstone rock
within the county ; but most of those of a larger size have beei^
fashioned into rabbets and lintels, or otherwise employed as mate-
rials for building.
The existence of flints in Scotland is a recent discovery, the
ehalk formation in which they form a constituent part of the up-
per beds, being there unknown. Notwithstanding, flints have now
been found both in this and the neighbouring parishes, which ge-
ologists have considered to be the true chalk flints. They are
common on the sea shore, intermixed with the shingle along the
beach adjacent to Banff, and have also been traced to Gamrie,
and to the eastward as far as Peterhead. A large deposit of flints
was 6rst discovered in the hill of Delgaty, imbedded in a sort of
unctuous clay, intermixed with nodules of quartz and shingle.
They have also been discovered by Colonel Gordon of Park, lit
the parish of Ordiquhill, and they have been met with in the hill
of Alvah, and in different other places within the parish. As
there are no chalk- beds in this country, it appears evident that
the flints and other debris, dissimilar to the rocks in situ, must
have been brought there by some mighty inundation from a great
distance, sweeping off the superior strata from extensive tracts
which they once covered, and spreading and throwing them toge-
ther in indiscriminate masses at great distances from the range,
with which they have every appearance of having been once con-
nected. To this great cause we cannot help assigning the great
mass of the upper beds of coarse clay, intermixed with every va-
riety of the debris of rock, neither to be found here tit situ^ nor at
any known distance from the spot. To this general covering of
water-worn debris then, torn from all the strata, the name of dilu-
vium has been given by geologists, from that great and universal
catastrophe to which it appears most properly assignable. Within
ALVAH. 151
this parish there are qo data from which we might form even a
probable conjecture, in regard to the direction of this mighty cur-
rent. Were we, however, permitted to travel beyond our bounds,
we might remark, in passing, that, in the neighbouring parish of
Boyndie, a narrow line of water-worn boulders of hornblend and
hypersthene, many of them weighing more than thirty tons, runs
from a north-easterly to a south-westerly dFrection, and which are
traced more than thirty miles in that line through part of the pa-
rishes of Boyndie, Ordiquhill, Grange, Keith, Cairney, &c. while
no rock on that line, of the same kind, is found in situ.
No organic remains are known to have been found within the
parish, neither of plants nor animals, neither the ores of any of
the metals, with the exception of iron, which, in combination with
the mineral, gives it its colouring matter.
Zoology.* — The mammalia, and indeed most of the other ani-
mals, are, with perhaps a few exceptions, precisely the same in
number and character in this parish as they are in most of the
parishes immediately adjoining.
Pearls are occasionally found in the Doveran. They are, how-
ever, of very small size, and of no great brilliancy.
Entomology. — On this head it may be mentioned that a few
years ago, a large and beautiful specimen was found at Montblairy,
in this parish, of the death's-head hawk-moth (Sphinx atropos).
This insect is said to advance with the cultivation of the potato.
Mr Duncan, in his History of British Moths (Naturalists' Library,
Vol. xiv.) does not take notice of any example of it having been
hitherto met with so far north. The specimen now mentioned
is in the possession of a gentleman in Banff.
Botany. — This parish possesses a highly interesting Flora ; but,
from a list of about 460 species transmitted by the writer, we have
only room for the insertion of the following planUB rariores :
Adoxamoscbatellina Bidena cernua Epilobium angustifolium
Ag^monia Eupatoria Botrychium Lunaria Prag^ria veaca
Aira cristata Brarhypodium sylvaticum Galeopsis versicolor
Akbemilla alpina Brisa media Galium boreale
Alisma Plantago Bromtis asper Mollugo
Anagallis arvenala >>>,,>,>*.,, giganteiM Geranium pratense
.,^.„.„,^,>.. tenella Campanula latifolia sylvaticum
Arenaria trinervis ' Cbrysosplenium alternifo- Goodyera repens
Asperula odorau Hum "^ Habenaria viridis
Asplenium Adiantum-ni- Circaea alpina Heliantbemum Tulgare
grum Droeera rotundifolia Hippuris vulgaris
* A detailed account of tbe zoology of the parish, for which the writer was indebt-
ed to the Rev. James Smith, Banflf, a gentleman highly distinguished both in moral
and natural science, is preserved along with tbe MS.
152 BANPPSUIRB.
Hyocinthus nOD-acriptuB Parnasua palustris Sciipui syWaticus
Hypericum hirsutum Peplis Portula Sedum yilloeum
,... ^^.*^ perforatum Polypodium Dryopteris Silene inflate
.,, ^...m» >.>.. quadrangulum Potamogeton lucens Sisymbrium thalianum
Lamium album Pyrola media Solidago yirgaurea
Lepidium Smithii -^ .^ minor Spergula nodoaa
Linnea borealu Radiola millegrana Stellaria nemorum
Listera oordata Rubua corylifolius Veronica scutellate
Litbospermum aryeose aaxatilis Viburnum Opulua
Lotus major Sanicula Europaoa Utriculata vulgaris
Melampyrum pratense Sazifraga aizoides ■■ minor
Omithopus perpusillus Scandiz Pecten
Plantations. — There are about 750 imperial acres under wood,
nearly 300 of which have been planted within the last forty years.
The trees most generally planted are the Scotch Gr and larch,
intermixed occasionally with a considerable proportion of beech,
ash, oak, elm, plane, birch, alder, horse-chesnut, Spanish chesnut,
lime, poplar, silver-fir, spruce-fir, service-tree, mountain»ash, la-
burnum, holly, &c. &c. Judging by the comparative growth, the
particular species of trees do not, in every instance, especially in
the earliest plantations, appear to have been placed in the soil
most congenial to their growth. The experience of the past,
however, will, it is probable, prevent in future the occurrence of
such mistakes as may have been committed in this respect. As
yet, it seems doubtful whether the soil generally is more conge-
nial to the Scotch fir or to the larch. It is plain, however, that
there are many stations more favourable to the one than to the
other, and not a few unfavourable to both, where, notwithstanding,
spruce and silver fir, as also beech and oak, are of vigorous growth.
In regard to Scotch firs,* the result of many experiments seems
to have rendered it certain, that plants raised from seed collected
from the natural forest, grow more vigorously, and produce timber
of better quality than the common plants of the nursery. The
fine thriving firs immediately behind the house of Dunlugas were
raised from plants of the former description, and by the accus-
tomed eye might be distinguished as such, from the peculiar tinge
of their foliage. Upon the whole, with a few exceptions in the
more elevated localities exposed to the blast of the north, the
soil of the parish is well adapted to the* growth of timber of various
kinds ; and if any opinion may be formed from the success of for-
mer plantations, the soil, if judiciously selected, is congenial to a
* The Scotch fir of this part of the country is, properly speaking, the Canadian
fir. The true Scotch fir is more red in the colour, its bark has a cleaner and shining
appearance, its boughs are more gnarled, its timber is reckoned of superior quality,
and altogether its appearance is more majestic and picturesque. It may be seen in
perfection at Marr Lodge.
4
ALVAH. 153
much greater proportion of ash, oak, beech, etm, Spruce, add sil-
ver fir, thaD has yet been introduced.*
11. — Civil History.
Documents f Transactions^ ^c. — In the. Advocates' Library at
Edinburgh, is preserved a very ancient parcbment,f containing^the
particulars of a transaction connected with this parish, at a dis-
tance of more than 500 years. This document is a charter of do-,
nation made by Marjory^ relict of the deceased John Earl of
AthoU, Lord Strathalveth, with consent of her son David, her law-
ful heir. The tenor of the donation is, that for the salvation of her
own soul, as well as that of her deceased husband, John, Ekirl of
Atholl, Lord Strathalveth, and of her father Donald,§ Earl of
Mar, she gives to the blessed Virgin Mary, to God, and to the
Abbot of Cupar, the right of patronage of the kirk of Alveth,
with the whole lands of Kirktown of Alveth next the kirk. The
charter, after the usual preamble, details very minutely the
* We have every reason to believe, that, if the following species were introduced
here, th^ would thrive better and prove more useful than any of the pines and firs
now culuvated in this quarter : Pinua undnata^ P, re^inowa^ P. Pyreitaica, P. pinea,
P. Laricio, P, mitU^ P. Gerardina, P, Strobus, P, exceUa^ Able* pinea^ A. Webbiana,
A. Douglastii^ &c«
t This parchmenl was formerly one of the manuscripts of the late William Rose,
Esq. of Montcoffer, to whose son, Patrick Rose, Esq. Banff, the writer is indebted
for the copy now, for the first time, published. The writer has also to acknowledge
his obligations to the same gentleman for affording him the use of the materials, out
of which the report on this head has chiefly been drawn.
X This countess was the daughter of Donaldi aiias Bayne, Earl of Mar, and wife
of John, tenth Earl of Atholl and Strathbogie. This Earl of Atholl was a great pa-
triot, and joined Robert Bruce at the battle of Methven ; but, being afterwards du-
covered, was conducted to London, where, notwithstanding his alliance by blood, to
the English monarch, he was condemned and executed A.D. 1306. In consequence
of bis royal descent, be was hanged on a scaffold thirty foet higher than ordinary.
Before life was extinct, he was taken down, when his head was cut off, and fixed on
London Bridge, and his body burnt to ashes. As a ransom for his soul, his widow
gave the lands of Alvah, ut supra.
David, eleventh Earl of Atholl, was son and heir of the above-mentioned countess,
and of John Earl of Atholl and Strathbogie, and gave his consent to the above-men-
tioned donation. He was a fiivoarite of King Robert Bruce, and was made High
Constable of Scotland in 1311. Having afterwards withdrawn his allegiance, and
revolted to the English nronarch, the office of High Constable was given to Sir Gil-
bert Hay, and Atholl's estates were forfeited. He was married to Joan Cumyn, eld-
est daughter and coheiress of John Lord Badenoch, and by her had a son, David
de Strathbogie, the twelfth Earl of AthoU. It is said be had other sons, from whom
the M'Intoshes, DufllV, &o. are believed to be descended.
§ Thu Donald, Earl of Mar, father of the Countess of Atholl, Strathbogie, and
Strathalvah, was taken prisoner at the battle of Methven, confined eight years in Lon-
don, exchanged for an English nobleman taken at Bannockburn, and conducted to
Scotland in 1314. About this time he appears to have died, for the charter of confir-
mation accompanying the charter of donation, is granted by bis son and successor,
Thomas Earl of Mar, on the 19th March in the same year.
From an old and scarce work entitled ^^ Ind^ to Charters by Ring David II,** it
appears that thb Thomas, Earl of Mar, granted a charter of the lands of Sandhaugh,
(now called Sandlaw,) and of the half of Auchenbadie to Thomas Hill, a person of
whose history nothing is now known.
154 BANFFSHIRE.
boundaries of the donation, in the following words — ^' usq. ad me-
ta versus villa de Banff que dicitur lie Stanemannishead juxta
commune de Banff antedict. ex boreali, descendendo in aqua de
Dowern cum dicta aqua et piscatione ejusd. ascendendo ad lie meir-
burn ex oriental! usq. ad lie blackbank et fowlfurd et inde exten-
dendo ad knockne ex australi, ascendendo rivulem statent de lie
Claretwell usq ad via ascendendo slakmethy et inde descendendo
per via usq. ad slacklethy descendendo ad fontem et rivulem ejusd.
usq ad redbank et illius ascendendo torrent fluent in aqua de Do-
wern usq. at Ranate hillok et inde ad lie Crukithillok et ad lie
Scurryfurd ascendendo ad magnam fovea vulgariter lie Greit slack
et Rishypannisy descendendo ad lie Comeswell et inde ad fontem
Sancti Joannis et bludypotts ad burgusaet stains inter communam
de Banff et terra ecclesiastica de Alveth antedict ex occidentali
partibus cum aliis omnibus terris avisamentis simulet et libertati-
bus." This charter is dated at Aberbrothwick, ** a. d. 131 4,
die XX. proximo post Sancti Pauli Apli," and is signed by
many witnesses, among whom are the Bishops of Dunkeld and
Brechin, the Abbots of Dumfermling and Aberbrothwick, with
several knights and persons of distinction. The above-mentioned
donation is accompanied by a charter of confirmation, granted by
Thomas Earl of Mar, Lord Strathalveth, signed and sealed,
'' apud Moravien. sedem an. dni 1314, et 19 marcij,'' in presence
of many witnesses of distinction. To this charter of confirmation
there is a docquet subjoined in the holograph of Thomas Deir,
designed ^' clericus St Andrese dioc ac sacra aplica aucto : No-
tarius," by which Henry, Bishop of Aberdeen, confirms the said
donations, 1375.
The charters of donation and confirmation, of which we have
here given the substance, are very interesting as documents of great
antiquity, and if rightly interpreted may yet become important in
other respects. The northern boundary of the parish of Alvah can-
not, at present, be precisely determined by the oldest inhabitant,
nor, in so far as the writer has been able to discover, are there any
existing documents, excepting the charter before us, which seem at
all calculated to throw any light on the subject If the localities
here mentioned could be exactly determined, the question would
doubtless be set at rest ; but the face of the country has undergone
so many important changes from the progress of improvement, that
it is now impossible to identify the present names of places, with
names which have, probably, long since been changed and forgotten.
3
ALVAH. 155
Several of the places mentioned in the charter, however, are known
by the same names at the present day, — a circumstance which en-
ables us to form a more probable conjecture with regard to the lo-
calities of the rest; and accordingly with this assistance and that
of the native octogenarians and others, we have given in a note*
* To determine the precise locality of the Stanemannishead is the first and greatest
diflSouIty which presents itself in tracing the bounds of this ancient donation. From
the woriis of the charter, the Stanemannishead must have extended on the north to
the town lands of BanfF, and these lands are known from tradition and other evidence,
to have stretched into the interior of the country as far as Cairnelpie, situated on the
Dorth-eastern angle of the farm of Wardend, and are supposed to have been bounded
by a line, nearly straight, passing from thence to the river Doveran, in the direction
of the row of old thorn trees which crosses the upper end of the deer-park. That part
of the parish which lies adjacent to this line is now called Craig-head,— a name which
bears some distant resemblance to the Stanemannishead, and in terms of the charter
lies due north of the church of Alvah. Supposing this line, then, to mark tlie boun-
dary on the north, we are now directed, in tracing the eastern limit, to ascend the river
Doveran as far as the Meirbum, This name, although now almost forgotten, is still
remembered by a few as the name formerly given to tlie small burn which flows be-
tween the farms of Mill of Alvah and Clay folds. On ascending this streamlet, in
terms of the charter, we arrive at Blackbank and Fowlfurd, places which, although
now unknown by these names, must have stood on the same burn a little below the
present manse. A little farther up lies Knokkne, a place which still retains its an-
cient name. From this we are directed to ascend the stream which flows from Cla-
ret-well, until we come to the road ascending to Slakmethy. The Claret-well is still
known by the same name, and the stream which flows from it is only the upper end
of the'Meirburn — circumstances which confirm the opinion given in regard to the
previously mentioned localities. The road ascending southward to Slackmethy, (al-
though this name it now forgotten), can be no other than the road ascending to the place
DOW called Berryhillocks, and the descent from thence to Slacklethy must be the conti*
nuation of the same slack to the place now called Kemplemire. From the well at Slack-
1ethy( Kemplemire,) the charter directs us to follow the stream to its junction, at Red-
bank, with the torrent which flows into Doveran. Redbank must be identified with
Path-head, and the torrent passing this and flowing into Doveran is the burn of Stony-
lea. Ascending this burn, as directed, we arrive at Ranate hillock, a place which
probably corresponds with what is now called Ranald's hillock, situated on the same
burn a little below Bythestown. Farther up we come to the Crukit-hillock, a name
which, although now lost, is quite descriptive of the Broomhillock below Firfolds.
Still farther up is Scurryfurd, which is probably the place where an old road now
crosses the marshy hollow north-west of Bythestown, near the Slacks. We are neit
directed to ascend to the Greit Slack and Rishypannis. The Greit Slack is, no doubt,
the Slacks of Tipperty, which commence immediately above the supposed locality of
Scurryfurd. Rishypannis or Rishypans is a name not uncommon in this part of the
country, and probably the Rishypannis of the charter may have been somewhere about
the lower and once marshy extremity of the Slacks of Tipperty. From these Slacks
a hollow on the farm of Tipperty leads di reedy *to the next sUtion,. viz. Comes well —
a well which still retains its ancient name. In completing the circuit, we are now
directed to proceed from Comeswell to St John's well, and Bludypott*s ad Burgusst
stains inter communam de Banff et terra ecclesiastic! de Alveth- llie site of St
John*s Wi>Il is now unknown, and that of Bludypott*s can only be conjectured. In
regard to the Burgusst stains we have more certainty. One of these was dug up
more than twenty years ago, near the wood of Bauchlaw, on the north-east angle of
the form of Wardend. The letter B was rudely carved on it, and tradition had pre-
viously marked the spot where it was found, as the point to which the Banff lands at
one period extended. With true antiquarian taste and feeling, this stone was broken
down and employed as material for building. Near the place where it was discovered,
once stood a cairn known by the name of Cairnelpie, in removing which, the fragments
of a human skeleton were found. According to taadition, these were the remains of a
person murdered here in former times, and as the cairn once stood on the margin of
156 BANFFSHIRE.
below what we conceive to have formed the probable boundaries
of this ancient donation; which, if our conjecture be right, will
point out the northern boundary of the parish. We need only
farther remark at present, that the boundary of the donation which
we have attempted to trace, comprehends almost the whole of the
lands possessed by the present Earl of Fife, within this parish,
west of the river Doveran ; and if, (as the best accredited genealo-
gies affirm,) his Lordship be descended from the Atholl family, it
is a very curious fact, that he should be in possession, at the pre-
sent day, of the lands which were given away by his ancestor at the
distance of 524 years.
It was the writer's intention to have, traced the succession of
landed property in the parish from the date of the above-mention-
ed charter down to the present time : but materials accumulated
to an extent so incompatible with a work of this description, that
he has found it necessary to present only a few detached fragments
of the more interesting and less generally known portions of this
part of our history.
In the *^ Registrum Magni Sigilli Regum Scotorum in Archi-
vis publicis asservatum," is found (at page 250,) the confirmation
of a grant, of date 1410, by Alexander Stewart, Earl of Marr and
Garviach, (Garioch,) and Dominus de Dufle in Brabant, to bis
brother Andrew Stewart, of the lands of Sandhalch, (Sandlaw,) in
the barony of Montblairy. This Earl of Marr and his brother
Andrew, were two of the five natural sons of Alexander Stewart,
Earl of Marr, better known by the appropriate name of the Wolf
of Badenoch. In 1426, Douglas, Lord Balveny had a grant of
Strathalvah confirmed by King James I. After the forfeiture of
Douglas, the Lordship of Balveny. reverting to the crown, was in
a deep and extensive pood, the place at an earl j period may probably have obtained
the name of Bludypotts.- Thus have we arrived at the place from which we set out,
namely, the Stanemannishead — a place already identified with what is now called
Craighead. This Craighead, as already mentioned, stretches in a line from the Bur-
gusset stains at Bludypotts or Cairnelpie to the river Doveran, and this line across the
upper end of the deer-park is now pretty generally considered the northern boundary
of the parish of Alvah, although there are some who positively maintain that the pa-
rish extends a considerable distance farther to the north. If a few more of the Bur-
gusaet stains vrere discovered between Cairnelpie and Doveran, the boundary, perhaps,
might be determined with greater ceruinty. In regard to the boundary which we
have now traced, it need .only be farther remarked, that the ascents and descents, the
heights and hollows, the points of the compass, and the course ot the streams, all cor-
respond with the terms of the charter,— circumstances, which, taken in connection
with the names still extant, render it highly probable that the above outline is pretty
accurately delineated. The northern boundary of the Stanemannishead is the only
point about which any doubt can be entertained. Mr Cowie has the principal merit
of tracing the boundaries of this ancient donation.
ALVAH. 157
1460 disponed to Sir John Stewart, afterwards created Earl of
Atholl ; but with this lordship he does not seem to have received
any of the lands of Alvah, for we find that his younger brother.
Sir James Stewart, received a charter of Strathalvah from King
James II. in 1466, and of the lands of Sandlach (Sandlaw,) in
1492. These two Stewarts were sons of Sir James Stewart, com-
monly called the Black Knight of Lorn, and of Joanna, dowager
of King James L, and were, tM>nsequently, uterine brothers of
King James II., for which they seem to have been distinguished
by many marks of royal favour. The former (Sir John Stewart,) was
created Earl of Atholl, and the latter, (Sir James Stewart, known
also by the name of Hearty James,) received Strathalvah and Sand-
law, as already stated, and was created Earl of Buchan in 1469, and
appointed great Chamberlain of Scotland in 1471. From seve-
ral existing charters, it appears that the Stewarts, and afterwards
the Douglases, Earls of Buchan, retained property in the parish
of Alva upwards of 1 50 years after the last mentioned date. From
the worked printed by command of King George III. in 181 1, and
entitled, ^' Inquisitionum ad Capellam Domini Regis Retornatum,
quae in publicis archivis Scotiae adbuc servantur abbreviatis,"* it ap-
* From this work the fbllowlng excerpts may be quoted as poesessing great local
iDterect at the present time :
Feb. 19. 1593. — Joannes Johnston, hcrcs Georgii Johnston, de eodem, jyo^Hx^ — in
annuo reditu L. 40 de Tillis et terris de Sandlaw in paroehia de Strathavauch.
December 17, 1624.— Alexander Fraser de Philorth, hseres masculus domini A1-
exandri Fraser de Fraserburgh militts, patrU^^-in terris de Tibbertie* (Tipperty) ;
villa et terris de Outlaw (ItUw); terris de Forefauldis (Firfold) ; rilla et terris de
Bremlaw (Greenlaw) ; villa et terris de Feltiehead, (Fattyhead,) cum Newtown de
Outlaw.
October 7, 1625. Waltenis Ogilvie de Banff, lueres domini Georgii OgiWie de
Dunluggas, militis, patrit, — in terris de Outlaw et Upperties comprehendentibus
terras dominicales vulgo Maynes de Tipperty, Broekiestowo* Kiltrie-knock, Briggis
billockt Barbit hill, Rosybum cum molendino.
January 11, 1628. — Dom. Geo. Ogilrie de Camousies, miles, baronetus, hseres
Georgii Ogilvie de Carnousie, jM^rlf,— 'in terris de Nether Dachries (Deuchries) in-
fra baroniam de Strathalvach— terris de Craighead de Alva, et terris vocatis Keaw
in paroehia de Alva.
June 15, 1648.— Patricius Comes de Kinghorne, Dominus Lyon et Glames, hseres
masculus Joannis Comitis de Kinghorne, domini Lyon et Glames, patrit, — in dimi-
dietate terrarum et Baronia de Montblairy et salmonum piscarise in dicta aqua de
Doveme ; dimidietate terrarum de Rylands, dimidietate BUcktown, Hairwood-hill,
( Herod-hill) Over Deuchries, dimidietate Auchinbadie cum pLscatione, dimidietate
Stanieley, Batgray et Knockin.
August 5, 1669 Christina, Isobella, et Elizabetha Hackats, haeredes portionarias
Walteri Hackat de Meyec, patritf-^ d aratris terrarum baronias de Outlaw, via.
8bovatis terr9 de Outlaw, et 4 bovatis terre, ville, et terrarum de Brockiestown, 8
bovatis terrae villse et terrarum de Outlaw, et 4 bovatis terrK de Outlaw, apud molen-
dinum de Rosseburrie, extendentibus, in toto, ad 3 aratra terrarum infra parochiam
de Alwacb.
October 29, 1695 ^Johannes Commas de Strathmore et Kinghorne, &c. hseres
Patrioii Comitis de Strathmore et Kinghorne, vicecomitis Lyon, dom. Glamis— - in
reliquo eomitatus et pnedii de Buchan, oomprehendentc (inter aliat V— terras de Mont-
blairy, Rylands, Deuehris, BUcktown, Hairwood Hill, Newton de Montbairy.
]53 BANFFSHIRE.
pears that Maria Douglas, Countess of Buchan, had in 1 6 1 5, charters
of the following lands, in the barony of Montblairy, viz. Waistryne,
Newtown, Todlaw, Quhitfield, Smedy town, and Haltown of Mont-
blairy, the dominical lands of Auchenbadie with the mill, the lands
of Staneley, the other lands of Auchenbadie, and lands of Ryland
with the mill. Soon after this, a great part of these lands seems
to have passed into other hands ; for from the work just referred
to, we find James Earl of Moray in possession of the barony of
Montblairy and Ryland in 1619. About seventy or eighty years
previously to this date, the other lands of the parish seem to have
been possessed chiefly by Sir Walter Ogilvie of Dunlugas, whose
rare turn for the acquisition of property is noticed in the present
Statistical Account of the parish of Banff. Among the valuable
manuscripts which belonged to the late William Rose, Esq. Mont-
coffer, was a charter to Sir Walter Ogilvie of Dunlugas, granted
2d February 1593, by the Cistertians of Cupar, of the lands of Al-
vah and Inverichny. The lands of Alvah, here mentioned, were,
no doubt, the donation of the Countess of Atholl, already particu-
larly noticed ; but how the Cistertians became possessed of In-
verichny is not very clear. From Nisbet's Append. 171, Inver-
ichny would seem to have been mortified to Strathbogie, and pro-
bably may have been presented by him to the Abbot of Cupar
soon after the donation made by the Countess of Atholl. The
charter conveying the above-mentioned lands to Sir Walter Ogilvie
is now deposited in the Advocates' Library at Edinburgh, and as
it seems to have been quite unknown to all the collectors of antiqui-
ties of this kind, it may here be intelligibly presented in the fol-
lowing abridged form : " Omnibus, &c. Donaldus, &c Abbas
monasterii de Cupro, &c dedisse, &c. Waltero Ogilvy de Dunlu-
gas militi et Alisonae Home ejus conjugi et eorum alteri diutius
viventi in conjuncta Infeodatione et heredibus suis subscriptis pro
nonnullis magnis pecuniarij summis per ipsos nobis in nra magna
urgente et cognita necessitate, &c. Totas et integras terras nrs
de Alveth et Innerrithny cum piscariis earund. supra aqua de
duvern et suis pertinen. infra vicicomita de Banff extenden annu-
atim nro in rentali in omnibus proficuis ad summa duodece libra
monetae Scotice — Tenendas et Habendas, (viz. said lands, &c. by
the said Walter and Alison, and longest liver of them)— et heredi-
bus inter ipsos legitime procreatis seu procreandis ; Quibus defi-
cien Georgio Ogilvy filio naturali predict Walteri et heredibus
suis de corpore suo legitime procreandis ; Quibus Oibus, quod ab-
ALVAH. 159
sit, deficientibus legitimis et propinquioribus beredibus dicti Wal-
ter! quibuscunq. de nobis et successoribus nrs in feoda firxna em-
phiteos et hereditate per omnes rectas metas, &c. &c*— warranted
and dated at the Monastery, 2d February 1359 — testtbus Johan-
ne Campbell de Calder, milite, Archibaldo Campbell, ejus filio, et
berede apparente, et magistro Andrea Barclay," &c. &c.
This Sir Walter Ogilvie was the ancestor of Lord Banff, and
as his lineal descendant is still the most considerable heritor in the
parish, he may, perhaps, with propriety, be more particularly no-
ticed. He was grandson of Sir Walter Ogilvie of Auchleven, an-
cestor of the first Earl of Findlater, and great grandson of Sir
Walter Ogilvie of Lintrathen, High Treasurer of Scotland in
1425, and ancestor of the family of Airly. Besides the proper-
ty granted to him, in the parish, by the charter just mentioned,
he acquired from Urquhart of Cromarty, in 1 530, the half of Dun-
lugas,* Sandlaw, and the haugh of Newton. The other lands of
Alvah, excepting Montblairy and Auchinbadie, he obtained from
the Erasers of Philorth. He bad also charters of Scatterly and
Castletown in the parish of King- Edward, of Blackhill in Moray-
shire, the lands of Petty, Braithliern, Strathe, and the^ Castle of
Howhill in Inverness-shire, Carnousie, in Banffshire, and Mony-
cabok in the county of Aberdeen. From the Barclays of Mont-
coffer he acquired the Mains of Montcoffer and Gaveny. By his
wife, Alisone Hume, daughter and co-heiress of Sir Patrick Hume
of Pastcastle, he had a considerable estate. He had also exten-
sive property in the county of Berwick, besides smaller estates in
other parts of the country. From Leonard, Commendator of Cu-
par, he obtained the teinds of the parish of Alvah, and from the
Abbacy of Arbroath the teinds of Banff and Gamrie. His successor,
for some time, appears to have rapidly increased the family property,
and his great grandson. Sir George Ogilvie, for his eminent loyalty
and faithful services, particularly in the action against Montrose
and the Covenanters, at the bridge of Dee in 1639, was raised
to the Peerage, by the title of First Lord Banff, by King Charles L
in 1642. His lineal descendant, the Honourable Lady Aber-
cromby of Forglen,*f- daughter of the seventh Lord Banff, still re-
* Tbe other half of Dunlugas belonged to John Lord Drumroondi 1490 ; and by
gift, 1511, mortified in favour of the King's College, Aberdeen, for the support of a
Professor of Theology, and feued to Sir W. Ogilvie by the College for L. 19, Is.
Scotch — MS. History of the town of Banff, by W. Rose, Esq. Montcoffer.
f The Honourable hady Abercromby died in 1838, and has been succeeded by
her, son Sir Robert Abercromby of Birkenbog and Forglen, Bart.
BANFF. h
Intiguous
to this tumulus is a large stone called carlin kistj supposed to be
part of a *' cromlech,*' or kist-vaen. In digging into a smallgra*
vel hillock, near Montblairy, a rude stone case or coffin, about four
feet square, was discovered, and, on removing the stone which
formed the lid, were found some ashes and a few fragments of cal«
cined bones. In digging graves in the churchyard, several vases
containing ashes have been found, but differing from others dist
162 BANPFSHIUG.
covered in the parish^ in having handles attached) and in being
glazed over with a substance resembling the exterior coating of
the coarse earthen-ware of the present day; On the eastern brow
of the hill of Alvah^ is a large tumulus or cairn, consisting chiefly of
small stones and earth. It is of an elliptical formy covering an area
of about 20 falls, and in the centre rising to the height of 7 or
8 feet, but has never been sufficiently opened to disclose any re-
mains of antiquity. Two smaller unopened cairns are also to be
seen on the hill of Tipperty, and on the farm of Itlaw. There is
also on the farm of Auchenbadie an apparently artificial mound of
earth, nearly fifty feet high. It is known by the name of Ha^iiU;
but there is no tradition respecting it, nor have any remains of
antiquity been found in it. On the farm of Burreldales, there
remain four large stones of a Druidical circle, and on the farm of
Newtown of Montblairy, one large stone marks the site where, a
few years ago, stood another circle of much larger dimensions.
Some time ago, a Druidical circle was found under ground, in dig-
ging deep into an old garden on the farm of Wardend. The ruins
of the ancient castle which once stood near Montblairy are levelled
with the ground, and the swamp on which it stood has now be-
come a fruitful field. According to tradition, the castle in ques-
tion was built by one of the Stewarts, Eark of Buchan ; but by
which of them, or for what purpose, the writer has been unable to
discover. In regard to the ancient chapel, (now also entirely de-
molished), which stood in its vicinity, tradition is entirely silent.
As already stated, Alexander Stewart, Earl of Mar, had the ba-
rony of Montblairy, about the year 1400, and, as it is certain that
he founded a chaplainry in the Garioch, the chapel in question
may, probably, have been something in connection with that foun-
dation. Whilst noting antiquities, it may also be mentioned that
about 1000 acres of the poorest soil in the parish bear marks of
cultivation at a period very remote ; and that in the haughs of
Sandlaw, and in the moss to the north of Maunderlea, and else-
where, trees of considerable size have been frequently found deeply
imbedded in the soil. In the haughs of Sandlaw, they have been
discovered lying at the depth of 8 or 10 feet from the surface;
and in the moss, many of the trees, consisting chiefly of fir, oak,
and alder, bear the marks of fire distinctly visible, while others are
found with the roots uppermost, near the surface, and with their
trunks deeply sunk* In some cases, the root of one tree has been
found right above the stump of another.
ALVAH. 163
Modem Buildings. — Under this head, the parish presents little
worthy of particular notice. The house of Montblairy, the pro-
perty of Alexander Morison, Esq. was built in 1791 by the late
Major-General Andrew Hay, whose name has been already men-
tioned. It is a substantial and commodious ediBce of three storeys.
A considerable addition was made to it in 1 825. Within the last
two years, it has received a thorough repair, and its outward ap-
pearance is now ?ery handsome and tasteful. Its situation amid
thriving plantations on a fine sloping bank, on the west side of the
Doveran, is particularly delightful, and the large and beautiful
quadrangle of offices erected on the wooded rising-ground behind
the house, adds not a little to the beauty of the scene, when viewed
from the opposite side of the river. The southern fa9ade of this
quadrangle is adorned in the centre with an elegant portico, sup-
ported by four massy columns of the Ionic order, and surmounted
by a corresponding entablature and pediment. An attic storey ex*
tends from one end of the building to the other, and the whole is
constructed of beautifully dressed granite.
It may be noticed, while on this subject, that in the house of
Montblairy, are to be found a few paintings which deserve the at-
tention of the lover, whether of the arts or of history. Of these
may be mentioned as the most valuable, either as works of art or
as representations of remarkable individuals, — an original portrait
of the Admirable Crichton,* transmitted, according to tradition,
by Crichton himself from Mantua to the Laird of Frendraught, to
whom he was related ; — six portraits^ by Jameson, including the
great Montrose, and the infamous Lady Frendraught, whose cruelty
in setting fire to the house of Frendraught is commemorated in a
well known popular ballad ; — portraits of Peter the Great, and
Prince Menzikoff, presented by the Czar himself to Gordon of
Auchentoul, who was a General in the Russian service, and wrote
* Mr Tytler mentions, in his life of Crichton, that there are thiee origioal per*
traits in this country of that famed individual ; one in the possession of Colonel Crich-
ton, Edinburgh ; and another belonging to Mr Stirling of Airthf both of which he
has seen, and from the former of which his engraving was taken. The third is the
one in question, which Mr Tytler never saw. Judging from the engraving in his
book, the present portrait would appear to be much superior to the one made use of
by Mr Tytler. It is indeed regarded by judges as a painting of great merit, and is
also in an excellent state of preservation, l^e painter, in so far as we are aware, is
unknown.
f These portraits are but in an indifferent state of preservation. The truth is,
that, owing to the extremely thin covering which Jameson used, or else to accidental
circumstanw'ei, the portraits of our Soottisli Vandyke (as he has not uiyustly been
termed) are, in so far as we have had opportunities of seeing them, rapidly hasten*
ing to decay.
164 BANFFSHIRE.
A life of the above-mentioned illustrious monarch ; — a portrait of
Bonaparte, when first consul, by Le Fevre ; — a singular portrait*
300 years old, of Barbara, Countess of Flanders, painted on a green
ground, and supposed from this and other circumstances to be
from the pencil of Holbein ; — portraits of the Prince of Orange
and of the Duke of Alva, &c.
About half a mile below Montblairy, on the opposite side of the
river, stands the house of Dunlugas, the property of Hans Greorge
Leslie, Esq. This house, built of granite, in 1793, consists of
three stories, and is substantial, commodious, and elegant. With
the exception of Duff House, perhaps no residence in the county
of Banff is more delightfully situated. A beautiful and extensive
lawn, partially adorned with lofty trees, which are tastefully dispos-
ed for effect, stretches in front to the margin of the river, and the
ground, rising somewhat abruptly behind, is covered chiefly with
thriving firs, whose dark foliage is finely contrasted with the light
and more varied tints spread over the scene below.
Milb. — Within the last thirty, years, 31 thrashing-mills have
been erected in the parish, seven of which are driven by horses, and
24 by water. There are also six meal-mills, one malt«mill, and one
lint-mill ; but none of these last have been recentlv erected. The
whole of the mills now mentioned are built of clay-slate, the pre-
vailing rock within the parish. There is still one remnant of thir-
lage in the parish.
ni. — Population.
According to Dr Webster the population in 1755 was 1)61
Sir John Sinclair, 1782, 1070
Under direction of Parliament, . 1811, 991
Do, Do. 1 82 1 , males 521 , females 558, total 1 079
Do. Do. 1831, 631, 645; 1278
1841, . . 1407
In order to answer the additional inquiries on this head, the
following results have been obtained from an exact survey made
in December 1887 :
Persons under 15 years of age, . 479
betwixt 15 and 30, . 362
30 and 50, . . 261
50 and 70, . . 150
upwards of 70, . 56
Total population in 1837, . 1308
Bachelors and widowers above 50, * 24
Unmarried women above 45, S5
Number of families, . . 252
Average number of children in each family, . 2
Houses inhabited, . . 246
not inhabited, or now building, « 8
ALVAH. 165
«
From the above tables it appears, that, during the fifty-six years
which elapsed between 1755 and 1811, there was a remarkable
decrease of 170 in the population of the parish, and that during
the twenty years which elapsed between 1811 and 1831, there has
been an increase of 287. Some years after 1755, the parish be-
gan to assume a new aspect, by the introduction of the improyed
system of husbandry, in the prosecution of which most of the
formers removed their subtenants, and began to farm on a more
oKtensive scale, and to this cause alone is to be ascribed the par-
tial depopulation which took place during the period in question.
Since 181 1, the nuoober of subtenants removed has been very in-
considerable, and much more than compensated by the introduc-
tion of a number of crofters, who are now thickly and extensively
scattered over the drearier districts of the parish, and are rapidly
bringing into cultivation large tracts of waste land, which, at one
time, were scarcely thought susceptible of improvement. Thus
both the decrease between 1755 and 1811, and the increase be-
tween 1811 and 1831 are easily accounted for.
The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 32®, of
which one-thirteenth are illegitimate. Tiie yearly average of mar-
riages for the last seven years is 4i. No register of deaths is kept
The number of persons of independent fortune is 2, viz. the two
resident heritors. There are no proprietors of land but the six
heritors formerly mentioned. The number of persons insane is 1 ;
fatuous, 1 ; and blind, 2. The language generally spoken is a
coarse mixture of Scotch and English, with an accent broad and
drawling ; but within the last forty years, considerable improvement
in this respect is certainly perceptible. There are no customs,
games, or amusements peculiar to this part of the country. As a
general fact, indeed, it may be observed, that all ranks and ages
seem to have lost much of the relish for what formerly constituted
the chief amusements of their forefathers. The habits of the peo-:
pie are in general cleanly, although among the poorer classes, ne*
gligence in this respect, particularly in the matter of dress and
bed-clothes, is but too frequently met with, and is, no doubt, oc
casionally the foundation of disease. The ordinary food of (he
peasantry consists of milk, meal, kail, or colewort, turnips, and
potatoes, variously prepared. Among the aged poor, particularly
females, tea is used to a great, perhaps to an injurious extent
Beef, mutton, bacon, or fish, seldom forms any part of the labour-
er's dinner; but it is to be hoped that one or other of these may
IfiG BANFFSHIRE.
yet be more frequently afforded than present circumstances per-
mit. The effects of hard labour, and under^feeding, become
very perceptible on the approach of age.
In so far as moral delinquency can be traced from our earliest
records, commencing in 1718, it appears that, more than a hundred
years ago, when the population of the parish was much less than it
is at present, crime of every description was more generally preva-
lent. Notwithstanding the severe discipline which the church then
rigorously enforced, the number of illegitimate births was as great
as at the present day, and hot unfrequently attended with circum-
stances of a revolting and aggravated description, which are now
unheard of in the parish.
IV. — Industry.
Agriculture. — Extent of different kinds of land. *
Number of acres ofcultiyated land} standard imperisl measure, 6955
wa&te or pasture land, . . 3428
under wood, . . 750
Total extent of the parish, . U 133
Number of acres improveable waste land, . J 597
waste land, chiefly fitted for planting, . 1831
improved within the last forty years, 2305
There are no undivided commons in the parish, but on the moss
of Banff, extending to about 180 acres, about one-half of which
is in Alvah, the Earl of Seafield and the Earl of Fife (for a few
farms on his estates) have a servitude of firing ; but the ^* bottom''
or under strata belongs in property to the Forglen estates, and be-
ing on the sandy clay, of a good quality, the ground is brought
into cultivation as the moss is exhausted.
The valued rent of the parish is L. 3304, 13s. 4d. Scotch, and
the real rental about L. 4065 Sterling. The average rent of
arable land is 13s. per imperial acre, or 16s. 5d« per Scotch acre,
but, taking into account surplus rents paid by subtenants, the ave-
rage rent paid for land is 14s« dd. per imperial acre, or 18s. per
Scotch acre.
Until about the year 1754, when the late Earl of Findlater in-
troduced the improved system of husbandry, the agriculture of this
* Tlie extent of laud improved within forty years, the extent in different kinds
of crop, the quantity of grain produced, and the amount of livestock, have been ob.
talned from returns made by all the farmers in the parish, who both kindly iiirnisb-
ed the information in question, and studied to render it as accurate as possible. One
of the estates has been recently surveyed ; but of other four the surveys are of older
date, and the survey of the remaining one has not yet been completed { so that in
our statements of the total extent of the parish, the extent of waste land, &c. ex-
treme accuracy cannot be warranted, although we have reason to think that our
statements are pretty nearly correct.
a
ALVAH. 167
t
part of the country was of the most wretched description, and in
this parish no improvement of any consequence seems to have taken
place until about twenty years after ;* but since that time, im-^
provement has been rapid and steadily progressive, and the agri«
culture of the parish may now be said to be conducted on the
most approved principles.
Rotation^ 8f€. — A regular rotation of cropping, suited to the na-
ture of the soil, has long been universally adopted. The most
common rotations are what are called the five, six, and seven shift
courses — the last-mentioned being that which is, at present, most
generally followed. Great and increasing attention is also paid to
the preparation of the soil by superior ploughing and cleaning, and
judicious application of manure. Lime has long been extensively
employed, and, excepting a few cases in which it has been injudi-
ciously applied, it has always been attended with the best effects.
Several years ago, no fewer than eighty barrels or forty bolls per
Scotch acre were laid on the haughs of Sandlaw, at an expense of
L. 10 per acre, exclusive of carriage. In consequence of this, the
produce was doubled — the fields yielding upwards of seven quar-
ters of wheat, followed next season by 300 stones of hay per Scotch
acre. This, however, is an extreme case, arising from the depth
and nature of the soil. The greater part of the inferior land of
the parish can scarcely receive twenty-five barrels per Scotch
acre, without sustaining an injury which the farmers as yet know
not how to repair. Within the last four or five years, bone-dust
has been introduced as a manure, and with a degree of success
which has not yet been satisfactorily explained. We cannot as yet
say with certainty which of the ingredients of this manure consti*
tntes the food of plants ; for although bones boiled and crushed
have been found to afford as good a manure as those in a raw
state, and although this circumstance would seem to strengthen
the opinion, that it is not the oily matter in the bones that consti-
tutes the manure, yet the fact, that bones so boiled and crushed
render the soil apparently as rich with oil as bones in a raw states
forbids us from asserting positively that the phosphate of lime
alone constitutes the food of plants in the manure in question.
* The state of agriculture in this parish at the period in question, is incidentally
noUeed in Souter*8 ^* General View of the Agriculture of the County of Banff, drawn
up ID 1812, for the consideration of the Board of Agriculture/' In the same work
may also be found descriptions and engravings of a turnip-sowing machine and horse-
hoe, the ingenious inventions of the late Mr John Cowie, farmer at Sandlaw, and the
first implemenU of the kind introduced into this part of the country.
168 BANFFSHIRE.
But, whatever may be the chemical action of bone-dust, it has here
been experimentally and satisfactorily proved that this manure can
impart no richness to any kind of soil, unless naturally dry or tho-
roughly drained* To the soil of this parish, generally, it is well
adapted, and has accordingly been almost universally used, al-
though its application has hitherto been exclusively con6ned to
the turnip crops. The quantity here employed varies from twenty-
five to thirty bushels per Scotch acre, at a price which has varied
from 2s. 4d to Ss. 8d. per bushel ; but even a much smaller quan«
tity has sometimes been applied with surprising effect. The best
practical farmers are of opinion that thirty bushels of bone-dust,
in good fresh land, not exhausted by over^cropping, will produce
as good turnips, and stand out the rotation as well as if twenty-five
cubic yards and upwards of farm-yard dung had been applied.
Crops raised^'^Some years ago, wheat was raised in considera-
ble quantities, but, since the fall in price, this crop has been al-
most entirely discontinued. Bear and barley are also at present
raised to a very limited extent Bear seems the more suitable of
the two to our soil and climate, ripening earlier, and affording a
better quality of grain. Chevalier-barley has been tried, but
is fast wearing out of repute. Except in very favourable seasons,
it is found too late for our climate. Various kinds of oats are
sown, according to the nature of the different soils, such as potato,
Hopeton, birly, sandy oats, &c. The potato oats are mostly
confined to the deep loams. The Hopeton are getting thicker
in the husks upon being re-sown. The birly and sandy oats are
excellent kinds, and well adapted to our soil and climate, and, as
they are little known in the southern counties, their quality may
be stated in comparison with the old common oats. They are from
eight to ten days earlier, produce more straw, and yield four per
cent, of more meal. Their average weight in 1836 was 42 lbs.
per bushel. Good sandy oats bring the same price as potato oats.
They are also as early, and have a great advantage over them, in
producing a much greater quantity of straw, in being less liable to
shake, and not apt to give way at the roots. Pease and beans,
though once common, are now scarcely sown in the parish. The
average number of imperial acres in yearly grain crop is 2846, and
the average produce is 9792 imperial quarters, — being an average
produce, per imperial acre, of nearly 3 quarters 4 bushels, or per
Scotch acre, of nearly 4 quarters 3 bushels. Ten of the best
farms on and near the banks of the Doveran produce, on an ave-
ALVAH. 169
rage, 5 quarters 6 bushels per Scotch acre, while some of the
best fields, in the same district, have been known to yield occa-
sionally 12 quarters per Scotch acre.
Planting. — The extent planted is 750 acres. In regard to
management, although our system appears generally proper, yet,
if more attention were paid to pruning and thinning, especially
at an early age, it is believed that the trees would be more
healthy, and of much larger growth. Several young and thriv-
ing plantations of larch might be pointed out, in which it is
necessary to cut down at least one-fourth of the trees immediate-
ly, in order to preserve them in a healthy state. Young trees are
also too frequently suffered to be overpowered by the growth of
whins ; and in some stations of considerable extent, where the
whins have been eradicated, with a view to remedy the evil, the
the second plantation of trees has been completely destroyed by
the rabbits, with which our woods are infested.*
Waste Ijond Improved. — 2278 imperial acres have been im«
proved within the last forty years. By far the greater part of this
extent has been reclaimed from thin land previously overgrown
with fiirze and heath. This sort of improvement on large farms
would seem, in some cases, to have been over-extended, as a con-
siderable part has either again been allowed to run into its natu-
ral state, or has now been planted. The most valuable impr6ve-
ments, however, have been effected by means of draining and ditch-
ing marshy ground, and so far have these been ciirried, that com-
paratively little now remains to be done in this way. The usual
mode of reclaiming waste land of a certain description, is to trench,
or trench plough the ground in autumn, allow it to lie in that
state during winter, and generally all the following year, and in
the second spring to crop it with oats (in which case, turnips fol-
low the next year) or prepare it for green crop. The mossy lands
(once of very considerable extent) are improved by drying and
burning. The water is drawn off by open ditches and drains. The
upper part of the moss, when dry, is burnt, and spread for ma-
nure, and lime is applied for raising artificial grass. When the
season is dry and early, this mode of culture produces Qne crops
of oats.
Waste Lands still unimproved. — In the parish, there are 3428
imperial acres still unimproved. Planting is, no doubt, the only
* The Earl of Fife has of late years planted thorn hedges, to the extent of nearly
eight miles within the parish.
170 BANFFSHIRE.
kind of improvement of which the greater part of the waste land
is susceptible ; and, accordingly, we are enabled to state, that, on
the western district, the property of Lady Abercromby, 306 im-
perial acres are to be enclosed and planted immediately, with mix-
ed wood, but chiefly with larch, for which both the soil and climate
appear most favourable. It is believed that plantations of consi-
derable extent are also contetnplaled by some of the other pro-
prietors.* After all, however, a great extent will still remain to be
improved. In the district mentioned above,. 664 imperial acres
have been conditioned to be improved, in leases of nineteen years,
lately granted. When all the improvements, both those in pro-
gress, as well as those contemplated by the proprietor, (viz.
straightening the marches, dividing the land into farms of conve-
nient size, improving and planting the wastes, and draining and
enclosing the cultivated land), have been completed, this once (and
still comparatively) dreary district will assume a highly improved
appearance. Similar improvements on the other estates will no
doubt follow in course, at least in so far as they are practicable and
necessary. Whilst speaking of waste lands, it occurs to the wri-
ter, that this species of property might be very advantageously im-
proved by letting, at least a considerable part of it, in small tene-
ments or crofts. Besides the necessity which exists for supplying
our surplus population with places of abode and the means of sup-
port, there are many parts of the parish of Alvah of a soil so poor
and unequal, that no other method seems so well calculated to
improve it. Large farms on such a soil are entirely out of the
question. Indeed, it is doubtful, if improving a great extent of
waste land on one farm, under any circumstances, be a safe specu-
lation to the improver, or of practical utility in any respect. That
it has fallen far short, often, of all reasonable expectation, there
can be no doubt. But the improvement of waste lands by small
tenements is of a more permanent and useful nature ; and, though
at first it may not be done to any great degree of perfection, its
progress is gradual and sure. A crofter once set down on the
poorest land, or land altogether waste, seldom or never fails to
make an independent livelihood, and to bring up his family, and
give them such an education as fits them for becoming useful mem-
bers of society. Mechanics that are wanted for the district, such
as tailors, shoemakers, masons, wrights, blacksmiths, &c. are all
* Since this report wm transmitl
182 BANFFSlllUE.
the wilds of the Grampiau hills. From the appearance of this
limestone, there is some reason to believe, that were it quarried to
sufficient depth, it might be of value, and used as a marble. The
most interesting rock, however, on this side, is a beautiful dis^^
play of graphic granite, so called from its exhibiting when polish-
ed, characters in n>any respects resembling those of the Hebrew
alphabet. It lies half way between Portsoy and the mouth of the
Boyne ; and, next to the serpentine, has made this place so well
known to the geologist. No one having the opportunity should
neglect to visit this rare and interesting rock. Imbedded in it are
found in some places large crystals of schorl, and also mica in firm
radiating masses.
Throughout the interior of the parish, there is but little oppor*
tunity for minute geology ; there being an almost universal and
thick covering of alluvium to obscure the subjacent rocks. Care-
ful examination, however, shows that the most of the interior is
composed of those variations of trap, which are comprehended un-
der the names of common greenstone, syenitic greenstone, hyper-
sthenic greenstone, and augitic greenstone. Quartz rock forms
the round-backed eminence of the Durn hill. It is distinctly stra-
tified, and is inclined at a high angle. Boulders of syenite, of con-
siderable size, are to be found aroun^ the foot of the Durn and
Knock hills, and in some other parts of the parish. The soil is
parily a strong clay, partly a clay loam, and partly a light loam ;
and generally highly productive along the sea-coast, but cold and
wet towards the south.
Zoology, — This parish is not distinguished, at present, by any of
the rarer species of animals. Its general breed of cattle is a cross
between the old Banffshire and the Buchan humble breed. The
pure Banffshire is now seldom to be seen.* The sheep are of the
Cheviot breeds with a few of the small black-ifaced.
* In 1770 a remarkable murrain broke out amongst black-cattle in this parish, to
which it may not be uninteresting here to refer. It is still remembered by some of
the oldest inba'uitants, and is s^Miken of as ** the Plague." It is said to have been im-
ported into Portsoy, by means of some tainted hay brought over in a vessel from
Holland, (vhere it was raging at the time,) and given as food to the cattle here.
It produced great excitement in the place, and soon attracted the attention of the go-
Teroment, who, to prevent the contagion from spreading, sent down orders to have
all the black-cattle, within a oeitain distance, immediately slaughtered on their show-
ing any symptoms of the disease. The owners, however, were indemnified by the-
government, according to the value set upon their cattle by judges appointed for that
Surpose. The place of slaughter is still pointed out ; and for a season, a party of soU
iers was stationed at Portsoy to enforce a kind of quarantine in regard to all the cat-
tle connected with it. The first appearance of the disease was heaviness, wateting
of the eyes, and heat in the horiu» This was succeeded ty flui, vjucb soon termU
nated in deaths
FORDYCE. 183
There is not only an .abundant supply of all the common kinds
of sea fish, but salmon is to be had regularly in its season ; there
being a bag-net station for this fishing near the mouth of the
burn of Boyne. At a former period, lobster- fishing was carried on
to a considerable extent, by the fishermen here, as well as along
the whole of this side of the Frith to Inverness ; and small vessels
visited the different stations on the coast, received the fish that
were caught, and then proceeded with them to the London mar-
ket. But nothing has now, for many years, been done in this re-
spect, beyond a few being caught by aged fishermen, who dispose
of them in the place. Crabs are found in considerable numbers ;
and it may be stated that, during the winter of 1838, when provi.
sions were so high, the children of several of the poorer families
derived an important part of their aliment from the common peri-
winkle, which is to be found so plenteously on our shores.
Botany. — One of the features of the parish most likely to strike
the eye of a traveller is the want of wood. This defect, however,
is in the way of being remedied. In the east part, the Earl of
Seafield has a young thriving plantation o( considerable extent ;
while a large space of waste land, contiguous to it, and lying be-
tween the burn of Boyne and the Huntty turnpike, has been en-
closed and planted during the past year. The other proprietors
have been adding to the ornament of the parish, and the improve-
ment of their own properties in like manner.
II. — Civil History.
There are no written records of the early history of this parish.
It would seem, at least, to have been sufficiently large, compre-
hending originally Ordiquhill, Deskford, and CuUen. When the
disjunction of these took place cannot be positively ascertained.
From a decreet of stipend for Fordyce in 1618, it appears to have
been subsequent to that period.
Land'Owner^ — There are three landed proprietors, the Earl of
Seafield ; Sir Robert Abercromby of Birkenbog ; and Arthur
Duff Abercromby, Esq. of Giassaugh, — the last of whom only is
resident in the parish. There are plans of the different estates in
the hands of their respective proprietors. Those of the Earl of
Seafield are of the oldest date, some of them not having been re-
newed since 1771. The last plan of the Giassaugh estate was
made out in 1821 ; while a new survey of Birkenbog was complet-
ed only two or three years ago.
Eminent Men. — Walter Ogilvieof Redhyth and Mr George Smithy
186 BANFFSHIRE.
to whom the cause of education here has been so much indebted,
were both natives of this parish. The former, in 1678^ be-
queathed the lands of Redhyth and Meikle and Little Bogton, all
within the parish, to establish bursaries at the parochial school, and
at King's College, Aberdeen. They are called, from their founder,
*^ the Ogilvie or Redhyth Bursaries." The number of bursara at the
school is now, from 12 originally, raised to 17; the annual value of
each bursary being 8^ bolls of meal, L.1, 16s. 8d. in money, and
L.1 for school-fees to the teacher. The term of the bursarv is
five years. The number at King^s College, from 8 originally, is
now also 17; and the annual value of each bursary is L. 17 Ster-
ling. * Mr George Smith, who was born in the village of For-
dyce, having realized a considerable fortune abroad, bequeathed
the greater part of it for the purposes of education in his native
parish. He died on his way home from the East Indies in the
end of last century. The establishment on his foundation com-
menced in 1801. There are at present nine bursars, each of them
receiving L.25 a year for board, clothing, and education. They
are all boarded with the teacher, who receives from the same fund
L. 40 of annual salary, besides having had provided for him an ex-
cellent house and garden. The parochial Schoolmaster has hi-
therto held the situation of teacher to ** Smith's Bursars ;" but
the magistrates of Banff, who are the patrons and trustees of the
establishment, have it in their power to appoint one distinct from
this. The term of these bursaries is likewise five years. In ad-
dition to the above bequest, Mr Smith left L. 25 a year to the pa-
rish minister, for taking a superintendence of the youth placed
upon the endowment ; and also L. 1000 to aid in erecting an
infirmary or hospital, either in Banff or Fordvce.
The Rev. James Stuart, late rector of George town and All-Saints,
South Carolina, left, besides other legacies for the advancement of
education, L. 1200, to endow one bursary at the'scl^^ol of Fordyce,
and another at that of Banff, to be enjoyed by boys of the name
of Stuart. These bursaries commenced in 1810, and the pres-
bytery of Fordyce presents to them. There are also other two
small bursaries, amounting together to about L. 9, founded by the
late James Murray in Butterytack, and to which the kirk-session
of Fordyce presents.
In consequence of the distinguished advantages thus posses-
sed in regard to education, many who received the elements of
* The Earl of Seafield is patron of them all.
FORDYCE. 185
their instruction in this parish, have afterwards acquitted them*
selves in a most creditable manner in the world, or are, at this
moment, honourably filling stations of an important kind. Sir
James Clark, presently Physician to Her Majesty, and Dr John
Forbes, chief editor of the British and Foreign Medical Review,
&c«, and now Physician Extraordinary to his Royal Highness
Prince Albert, were both educated at the parochial school.
Parochial Registers. — The registers of discipline have been re*
gularly kept since 1658, and of baptisms since 1665. The mar-
riage register does not commence till 1723, since which time it
appears to have been regular. The following notice of the
ministers of Fordyce, since the Reformation, is taken from one
of these registers : —
Mr Gilbert Gairdn, it is said, *^ seldom went to the pulpit
without his sword, for fear of the Papists." Mr Patrick Darg
was minister for sixty-three years. David Abercromby, de-
posed for drinking. William Blair, admitted in 1675, and trans-
ported to Aberdeen in 1680. James Stuart came from Invera^
ven in May 1681, and died in three years. Alexander Gallie
came from Deskford in 1684, and died in 1715. Alexander Ir-
vine came from Cullen in 1716, and died in 1746. James Law^^
tie, ordained August 1747, and died August 24th 1791. Alex-*
ander Humphrey, ordained March 8th 1792, and died February
13th 1832. John Innes, present incumbent, admitted from Or-
diquhill September 6, 1832.
The following is a list of the Presbyterian ministers in Portsoy
from its first erection into a preaching station in 1741 : — viz. Mr
John Yule, Mr James Ogilvie, Mr Thomas Mitchel, Mr Robert
Ogilvie, Mr Burnet, Mr Thomas Steel, Mr Walter Chalmers,
Mr Abercromby Gordon, Mr James Kelly, Mr William Grants
Mr Daniel Cruickshank, and Mr Alexander Reid, the present in-
cumbent, who was admitted June 18, 1829.
Antiquities.— The remains of the encampment on the hill of
Durn are still visible ; it would appear to have been originally of
considerable extent ; and is most probably to be referred to the
time of the Danish invasions. There are other relics which seem
plainly to show that this parish had been the scene of repeated
hostile feuds ; some of them perhaps arising from the incursion
of foreign enemies, and others from the not more welcome visits
of Highland freebooters, descending on the richer plains. In addi-
tion to what is stated in proof of this in the former Statistical
186 BANFFSHIUE.
Account) it may be mentioned that a tumulus was opened at
Auchmore in 1828, in which was found an earthen urn, contain-
ing ashes. The urn was placed in a kind of rude coffin, formed
of stones laid together for that purpose. This and the large
mound raised over it would seem to indicate, that it had been a
person of distinction whose ashes had been deposited here. And
there is reason to believe that they may have been those of some
warlike cliief, who had fallen in an engagement, of which there is
a tradition that it took place near to the spot. The above urn is
now preserved in the museum at Banff. Within a mile of the
same place, on the brae of Roseacre, in the immediate vicinity of
Portsoy, no fewer than five urns have been found, containing ashes
and bones. Two of them were dug up about the beginning of this
century, and the other three only a few years ago, when that part
of the field was being trenched over to improve its productiveness.
They were all, however, broken by the workmen ; but the frag-
ments, which are still preserved, show that they would have been
about twelve inches in diameter, and of a proportional depth. And
in September of last year, there was turned up by the plough, on
the farm of Ley, another urn, containing some remains of a si-
milar kind. It was found placed upon a stone with a cover on the
top, but was also broken. It is now likewise in the Banff museum.
The old Castle of Findlater is deserving of notice amongst the
antiquities of this parish. It is the most interesting ruin within it.
It stands on a peninsulated rock on the sea shore, and still evi-
dences, that, in its day, it had been a place of considerable im-
portance. Leslie, Bishop of Ross, describes it (although, from
the tactics of modern warfare, we suspect that the description
would not now hold true) as ^* castrum, loci natura ita muni-
tum, ut inexpugnabile videatur." Its outer, or north wall, is so
built as to correspond with the face of the rock ; and its windows,
which appear to have been chiefly on that side, would thus
look into the sea. The lower apartments, some of which are
partly excavated out of the stolid rock, are strongly vaulted with
stone arches ; and the south side of the building, which was the
only- one exposed to danger, appears to have consisted of a large
mass of dead wall, protected by a fosse and drawbridge. Beyond
this, and at about the distance of 100 yards, there had been ano-
ther fosse and rampart, as an outwork to defend the castle ; leav-
ing an intermediate space large enough to exercise a considerable
number of men. The stones of the buildings, which were in the
FORDYCE. 187
south-west corner of this area, and were probably used as stables
and storehouses, have now been almost entirely removed for agri-
cultural purposes, on the adjoining farm. The dovecot, however,
on the top of the hill, still stands in a tolerable state of preserva-
tion, and continues to he used for its original purpose.
Sir Walter Ogilvie got leave, in the i8th of James II., or a. d.
1455, to fortify his Castle of Findlater with a tower and fortalice,
and all other necessaries for a place of strength. It would appear
to have been regularly occupied till towards the end of the reign
of James VL, when it became less necessary for our nobles to seek
their safety wilhin the walls of their castles. Findlater, at that
time in the possession of John Gordon, son of the Earl of Huntly,
was one of the places which refused to receive Queen Mary on
her royal visit to the north ; and a party of six score of soldiers,
sent out by the Queen to force a surrender, were one night, while
lying at Cullen, surprised by him, and all of them either disarmed
or slain. It soon, however, returned into^the hands of its origi-
nal possessors. There is an intefesting tradition prevalent in the
district, connected with its ceasing to be a family residence.
While the lady of the castle, it is said, was one day standing at
an open window holding an infant son in her arms, the child sud-
denly leapt from her hold, and, falling amidst the foamingwaves and
rocks beneath, immediately perished. The associations connect-
ed with this melancholy event were such as to make the place to
be immediately after deserted. The district of Findlater, from which
the castle takes its name, furnished the title of Earl of Findlater to
a succession of noble proprietors. The title was first conferred
on James, second Lord Ogilvie of Deskford in 1683, and continued
to be enjoyed by the male heirs of his body till it became extinct
in James seventh Earl, who died on the continent in 1811. The
estates, together with the Seafield titles, then came into the pos-
session of the present family through the line of a collateral female
branch ; Lady Margaret, eldest daughter of James fifth Earl of
Findlater, having married Sir Ludovic Grant of Grant,* grand-
father of the present Earl.
* May not the name Findlater be traced to a French derivation ? Fin-la-terre,
'* the land's end,'* is an appellation that is at least descriptiye of its locality, bound*
ed as it is by the sea, and projecting farthest into it on this part of the coast. This
derivation is, moreover, borne out by the circumstance of Findlater, according to
the earliest accounts that we have of it, having been first in the possession of a fami-
ly of the name of Sinclair. Now Sinclair is none other than the French name St
Clair (de sancto Claro) ; and Douglas in his Peerage tells us that a famUy of this
name came over with ^'iUiam the Conqueror from Normandy into Britain, and that
two" branches of that family settled in Scotland in the twelfth century.
188 BANFFSHIRE.
Modem Buildings. — The present parish church of Fordyce was
built in 1804, and of Portsoy in 1815. A new Roman Catholic
Chapel was erected in 1829, and an Episcopalian one in the course
of last year ; both within the town of Portsoy. The mansion-
house of Glassaugh has also been lately much enlarged and im-
proved, and now forms one of the neatest and most commodious
residences in this part of the country.
III. — Population.
The population of this parish, as given by the census taken in
1755, was 3212; in 1782, it had risen to 3425; in 1801, it
amounted only (if the census has been given correctly) to 2747 ;
in 1821, it had again reached to 3245 ; and in 1831, it was 3364,
of whom 1578 were males, and 1786 females. The population
in the towns and villages in 1831 was 2023, and in the country
district, 1341. The yearly average of births for the last seven
years is 70 ; of marriages, 20. No register of deaths has hitherto
been kept.
The STerage number of peraoos under 15 jeani of age^ . 1231
between 15 and 70, . 1948
above 70, . 185
Population in 184), . 1722
There are only two families of independent fortune at present
resident in the parish. All the proprietors have a rental far above
the yearly value of L. 50.
The number of fomilies in the parish, . . ; 701
Average number of children in each, . • . . 4^
Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 77
women, including widows, upwards of 45 years of age, 191
There are 3 persons insane ; 2 occasionally so ; 3 fatuous and
dumb ; 1 dumb ; and 1 deaf. With regard to the last mentioned
person, it is worthy of notice, that though his hearing, which he
had in his youth, is now quite gone, he can still hold a degree of
converse with others, by marking the movements of their lips, and
will understand most persons to a certain extent, provided they
speak with deliberation, and allow him to look them in the face.
IV. — Industry.
Agriculture.
The number of imperial acres in the parish, which are either cultivated or oc-
casionally in tillage, ..... 9306
The number which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly
waste or in pasture, . . • . . 5960
The number of the latter that might be profitably cultivated, 670
in a state of undivided common, .... 1500
under wood, . . ... )2d4
Total number of imperial acres, 18670
FORDYCE. • 189
Wood. — The general kinds of trees are, Scotch 6ry larch, and
ash. With the exception, indeed, of a small thriving plantation
of the last, in the vicinity of the old Castle of the Boyne, the
Scotch fir and larch are by far the most predominant description.
The plantations are duly cared for, and the young woods regular*
ly thinned from time to time, as they require. These thinnings,
however, do not realize much to the proprietor.
Bent, Woffesy Sfc. — The average rent of arable land in the
parish, per imperial acre, is 16s. dd. Grazing an ox or cow
for the summer may cost from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3 ; and the
keep for the winter, a like sum. Grazing a full-grown sheep
for a year, 7s. 6d. The ordinary rate of a labourer's wages
per day in summer, without victuals, is from Is. 6d. to Is. lOd.,
and in winter, from Is. to Is. 4d. ; a mason's from 2s. 6d. to Ss. ;
a Wright's from 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; a slater's from 2s. to 2s. 6d., with
a proportional rate for the winter. When victuals are afforded,
sixpence is the usual deduction made from these rates. Male
farm-servants (1st class) receive, exclusive of board, from L.6 to
L. 7 in the half year ; 2d class, from L. 4 to L. 5 ; and female
servants from L. 2 to L. 2, 5s. Flax raised in the parish for do*
mestic use may be estimated at 5s. 3d. per stone imperial, and
Cheviot wool at L, 1, Is. per do.
Husbandry.'-^lLhe common breed of cattle has already been
mentioned. Not a little has been done of late for its improvement
by the premiums given for superior stock, both by the Banffshire
Farmer Club, and the Highland Society. Since 1829 the short-
horned or Teeswater bull has been introduced ; and the result has
been a decided advantage, both as regards size and facility of fat-
tening. With the view also of improving the breed of horses^ an
enterprising farmer lately brought down several fine Clydesdale
mares, both in symmetry and strength very superior to the ordi-
nary class of the district. Nor are the improvements confined to
this department of husbandry. Draining is carried on to a large
extent, and with great activity. On one farm, which may be given
as a specimen, there have been completed, since 1837, not less than
10,175 yards of open ditches, and 17,998 of drains, on the
plan recommended by Mr Smith of Deanston, besides 1600 of
march ditches, cut by the heritor. On some of the other farms
the draining has been nearly to the same extent. The introduc-
tion of bone manure has been productive of great benefit ; and it
is now extensively used. Several new thrashing-mills have been
190 BANFFSHIRE.
recently erected. The farm enclosures are but few ; nor can it be
said that there is not much room for improvement in regard to the
farm-buildings. All the later erections, however, have been much
superior to those which preceded them. The general duration of
leases is nineteen years ; and it is believed, that few tenants are
more indulgently treated than those on the estates in this parish.
Quarries. — There are three lime quarries ; one at the mouth of
the burn of Boyne ; another on the Glassaugh estate, near to Sand«
end ; and a third close by that village. The last has not been
much wrought for some time. There are annually produced at
the first about 13,000 barrels of lime, and at the second, about
7000. There is also a quarry of beautiful quartz on the north side
of the hill of Durn, from which exports are made for the use of
the potteries in England. It is considered to be peculiarly suit-
able for this purpose, and to be much superior to the English
quartz.
Fisheries. — There are ten fishing-boats in Portsoy, and seven in
Sandend, with four men to each boat When the fishermen go
to a distance to the cod fishing or herring fishing, they use a lar-
ger boat, with from five to seven men. Each crew of four men pays
an annual rent to the proprietor of L. 4, 3s. 4d. ; for which he
supplies them, if required, with a new boat every seventh year.
They will realize on an average to every man, from L. 27 to L.30
annually ; but the amount will be more than this, if the herring-
fishing has been very successful. Salmon-fishing by the bag-net,
is also carried on at a station near to the mouth of the burn of
Boyne. The rent to the proprietor for the part of the coast in
this parish, is L. 12, 10s. The average number of salmon caught
for last two years was 147, and of grilses, 410.
Amount of Produce. — The average gross amount of raw pro-
duce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is
as follows : —
Produce of grain of all kinds, . . . L. 24955
of potatoes, turnips, &c. . . . 786*2
of hay and pasture grass, .... 5347
offisberjes, sea and salmon, . 2220*
of quarries, ... . . . 1220
of flax and other miscellaneous produce, . 146
Total annual Talue of rav produce, 41,250
ilfaim/actones.— There is a small rope manufactory in Portsoy,
* The calculation here made is for the number of boats only belonging to the parish,
and does not include any extra boats during the herring fishing.
PonoYCE. 191
adjoining to the premises which were formerly occupied in con-
nection with a thread manufactory and bleachfield. There is al-
so a small distillery ; and a bone, thrashing, and saw mill, driven
by the same water wheel, has lately been erected in the centre of
the town. The importing of flax for spinning, which used to be
to a large extent, has now entirely ceased ; and a most important
means of support to humble and industrious females has thus been
withdrawn.
Namgation. — There are eight yessels belonging to the port of
Portsoy, the whole registered tonnage of which is 556 of new mea-
sure. Scotch and English coals are the chief imports. The
amount of the former for the year, from May 6, 1839, to May
6, 1840, was 3250 tons, including 200 discharged at Redhyth ;
and of the latter, 3500 tons. From eight to ten foreign vessels,
chiefly from different parts of the Baltic, annually visit this port,
bringing with them bones, and taking cargoes of herrings in return.
Besides the export of herrings, grain is also frequently shipped to
a large amount.
V. — Parochial Economy^
Marhet-Toumiy 4000
Number of acres which never have been culiifated, and which remain constant-
]y waste or in pasture^ • - 800
Nearly the whole of the waste land might be cultivated, but capital would not
be profitably applied to such a purpose.
Number of acres in a state of undivided common, nearly - 10
Number of acres under wood, whether natural or planted, - 800
Average rent of land per acre, 15s. ; real rental of the parish,
L.3000.
The agriculture of the parish is in general conducted on the
most approved principles, skilfully applied.
V.^-Parochial Economt.
Ecclesiastical State. — Number of families in the parish belong-
ing to the Established Church, 90; number of Dissenting or Seced-
ing families in the parish, 1 ; number of Episcopalian families in
the parish, 8; number of Roman Catholic families in the pa-
rish, 1 . Amount of stipend, L.220. Glebe, nearly six acres in ex-
tent, and worth about L.10 per annum. The manse was built in
1787, and is now in good condition.
Educatian. — Number of schools in the parish exclusive of Sab-
bath schools, 1. Yearly amount of parochial schoolmaster's sa-
lary, L.d4, 4s. 4id. Probable yearly amount of fees actually paid
to parochial schoolmaster, L. 30. Probable amount of the other
emoluments of parochial schoolmaster, L.5 nearly.
Poor. — Average number of persons receiving parochial aid, 16.
Average sum allotted to each, L.2, 10s. per annum. Average
annual amount of contributions for relief of the poor, L.d5 ; from
church collections, L.30 ; from alms or legacies, &c L.5. But
there is also a periodical legacy of L. 20 from Burnet of Dens'
mortification for the poor in the synod of Aberdeen.
March 1842.
PARISH OF GRANGE.
PRESBYTERY OF STRATUBOGIE, SYNOD OF MORAY.
THE REV. WILLIAM DUFF, MINISTER.
I. — Topography and Natural History.
Name. — In the old Statistical Account of this parish, it is said
that Grange takes its name from Grangiaj a middle-age term for
a farm, or country residence. It is certain that this parish was the
Grange or farm of the Abbots of Kinloss, to whom the greater
part of it, if not all, was given by William, King of Scots, as may
be learned by a charter of Strathisla to Kinloss, published in
Shaw's History of Moray, without date, but with the names of wit-
nesses attached. It is likely that this charter was granted by the
King about the end of the twelfth century, or beginning of the
thirteenth.
The jolly monks had here a residence, built on the site where
the church now stands, attracted, it is said, by the beauty of the
situation. If it was beautiful in these days, it is much more beau-
tiful now, having been, a few years ago, surrounded by trees and
shrubs. The mount upon which their dwelling stood is situated
upon the slope of a brae, which, in appearance, is mostly artificial.
It overlooks the extensive haugha or holms on the rivulet Isla,
beautified principally by the cultivation of its banks, — for the
trees are yet few and far between, the few venerable ashes, elois,
and planes that surrounded the farm-steadings, having been rooted
out and sold. On the south of the Isla, there is a wide and long
brush of larch and Scotch firs, now shooting up, and changing the
scene a little, from the dull uniformity of unadorned hill and valley.
Boundaries^ 4-c. — The parish is six miles long by five broad.
It is bounded on the east, by the Knock, a hill, about 1600
feet above th^ level of the sea. This hill is cultivated a good way
up, on all sides. The greater part of its surface is deep peat,
and heather. ^On the top the moss is from eight to ten feet deep.
In the dry year 1826, the surface was burnt round and round, hav-
214 BANFFSHIRE.
ing caught fire, either by accident or design, nobody knows which*
There is a very extensive view from it both of sea and land-
Grange is bounded on the east, west, and south, by the parishes
of Marnock, Rothiemay, Cairney, and Keith ; on the north, by
that of Deskford and part of Fordyce. On the northern part
there are two hills, the Lurghill and the hill of Altmore, now call-
ed Aulmore, which signi&es the great burn. In the centre there
is the Sillyearn, on which there is an extensive plantation, young
and thriving. In the southern part there are the Mickle and
little Balloch, the lower parts of which are now covered with wood.
Towards the top there could be no hope of a tree, as it is dry,
rough, and rocky. On the Mickle Balloch, there are several
graves of some unhappy suicides, marked by a cairn, not sacred to
their memory, but to tell of their unchristian burial and untimely
end. Here is the Gallow-hill, too, of which tradition speaks with
fear and trembling. On this memorable mount the criminals of
the district met their ignominious fate. The abbots, as well as
the feudal barons of those days, had the power to condemn with-
out appeal, and, it is likely, to execute without justice.
The Isla is a 6ne trouting stream. It takes its rise in Loch-
park, on the estate of Admiral Duff, in the parish of Botriphnie,
runs through Keith and Grange, and empties itself into the Do^
veron, in the parish of Rothiemay.
There are few remarkable springs, unless two or three, that,
even in the driest season, are ever flowing, and full. The best
known is the Lady well, consecrated by some temperate abbot who
indulged in the soft purity of the fountain. There is also the
Croik, or the well of the cross, cold and pure, on the opposite
side of the Isla; and a few others of less note.
Botany, — The following may be considered as a pretty accurate
list of the more common plants of the parish :
Achillaea millefolium Alopecurus pratensis Bellis pereDois
ptarroica geniculatus Blecbaum boreale
JEgopodium podagraria Anemone nemorosa Brisa media
Agrostemma Githago Anthoxanthum odoratum Bunium flexuomim
Agrostis fttolonifera Apargia autumnalis Calluna Bulgaria
vulgaris Arctium lappa Caltba palustris
Airajcaspitosa Arenaria rubra Campanula rotundifolia
flexuosa Artemiua vulgaris Capsella bursa pastoris
caryopbyllea Arrbenatberura avenaceum Cardamlne pratensis
praecox Aspidium F'ilix mas birsuta
Ajuga reptans spinulosum Carices
Aicbemilla vulgaris Atriplex patula Centaurea nigra
arvensis A vena tatua cyan us
Alnus glutinota Bartisa odontitis Cerastium visoosum
OBANGE.
215
Juncus squarrosus
Juniperus communis
Lamium purpureum
iacisum
amplexicaule
Lapsaoa communis
Lathyrus pratensis
Lemna minor
Leootodon taraxacum
Linum catharticum
Lolium perenne
Lotus corniculatus
Luzula campestris
sylvatica
Lychnis Flos cuculi
Lycopodium clavatum
alpinum
selago
Lyoopsis arvensis
Lysimachia nemorum
Medicago lupulina
Mentha arvensis
hirsuta
Menyanthes trifoliata
Mercurialis perennis
Jdontia fontana
Myosotis palustris
coispitosa
arvensis
versicolor
Myrica gale
Narthecium ossifragum
Nasturtium officinale
Orchis latifoiia
maculata
Orobus tuberosus
Ozalis acetosella
Papsver dubiura
Pedicularis palustris
Phalaris arundinacea
Pinguicula vulgaris
Pinus sylvestris (extinct)
Plantago lanceolata
major
maritima
Poa fiuitans
trivialis
pratensis
annua
Polygala vulgarii
Polygonum aviculare
Convolvulus
amphibium
Persicaria
Potamogeton natans
PotentiUa anserina
Primula vulgaris
Prunella vulgaris
Pteris aquilina
Pyrethrum inodorum
Ranunculus aquaticus
hederaoeus
Cerastium semidecandrum
vulgatum
Qirysanthemum segetum
Chrysosplenium oppositi*
folium
Cnicus lanceolatus
palustris
arvensis
Conurum palustre
Conium maculatum
Corylus avellana
Cynosurus cristatus
Cytisus scoparius
Dactylus glomerata
Digitalis purpurea
Draba verna
Eleocbaris palustris
Erapetrum nigrum
Epilobium montanum
palustre
Equisetum arvense
sylvaticum
palustre
Erica cinerea
Tetralix
Eriophorum angustifolium
Ervum birsutum
Euphorbia helioscopia
Euphrasia officinalis
Festuca ovina
Fragaria vesca
Fumaria capreoleta
officinalis
Galeopsis Tetrahit
Galium verum
sazatile
Galium uliginosum
palustre
aparine
Genista anglica
Geranium Robertianum
molle
di&sectum
Geum urban um
Glechoroa hederacea
Gnaphalium sylvaticum
uliginosum
dioicum
Heracleum sphondylium
Hieracium pilosella
sylvaticum
Hippuris vulgaris
Holcua mollis
lanatus
Hypericum pulchrum
perforatum
Hypochsris radicata
Iris pseudacorus
Juncus efiusus
conglomeratus
acutiflorus
uijginosus
* The above list was drawn up on 2d October 1838, and, in consequence of the
lateness of the season, it is probable that several of the rarer genera and species have
been overlooked.
Ranunculus Flammula
acris
repens
Rephanus Raphaoistrum
Rliinanthus Crista gall!
Roe spinosissima
tomentosa
Rubus Idieus
fruticosus
Rumex crisp us
acetosa
acetosella
Sagina procumbens
Salix repens
aurita
Scabiosa succisa
Scirpus palustris
Scleranthus annuus
Senecio vulgaris
sylvaticus
Jacobaea
aquaticus
Sherardia arvensis
Sinapis arvensis
Sisymbrium officinale
Sonchus arvensis
oleraceus
Spergula arvensis
Spirssa ulmaria
Stachys sylvatica
palustris
Stellaria media
graminea
uliginosa
Tanacetum vulgare
Thymus serpyllum
Tormentilla officinalis
Trientalis Europiea
Triiblium repens
procumbens
pratense
fiUforme
Triglochin palustre
Tussilago fitrfara
Ulex Europseus
Urtica urens
dioica
Vaccinium myrtillus
Valeriana officinalis
Veronica serpylUfolia
Beccabunga
officinalis
chamadrys
hederifolia
agrestis
arvensis
Vioia cracca
angustifolia
sepium
Viola caniua
tricolor. •
216 BANFFSHlllE.
There is no doubt that Grange was anciently covered with wood.
In the extensive peat mosses, are found imbedded roots and trunks
of fir and oak, chiefly of fir, vast quantities of which are cast out
in the preparation of fuel. There are now large tracts of young
wood on Lord Fife's estates ; and perhaps from Gfty to sixty acres
on the estate of Sir James Innes, Bart, of Edingight.
This parish is now generally under cultivation— even the mossy
and heathy hjll of Aulmore is rapidly creeping under the plough.
This hill is studded far and wide with the cottages of the poor ; but
much of the lower lands has been cultivated with industry and skill.
There is a great extent of excellent soil in the parish ; much,
however, which no tillage will ever make good. The clayey and
hard till subsoils prevail much, and are much complained of. The
climate, in general, and particularly on the Davoch of Grange, is
healthy and bracing.
11. — Civil History.
Grange was feued out into small lairdships, upon the appear-
ance of the Reformation, by the then abbot of Kiuloss, and was
thus put into the hands of a great number of small proprietors. In
the course of years, the number diminished, as the wealth of some,
and the wants of others, increased. It is said of Alexander DufT
of Braco, Lord Fife's ancestor, one of the more cautious and eco-
nomical of the feuars, that, as he was standing on the hillside at
his residence of Braco, and seeing many of the laird's chimneys
smoking around him, he remarked to a bystander, that he would
make the smoke of these houses all go through one vent by and
bye; and he nearly accomplished his purpose, as four fifths of the
whole are now in the hands of his descendants. Edingight, how-
ever, still remains in the hands of the family of the original feuar,
and the remainder is in the possession of the Earl of Sea field.
It is recorded that there were some battles fought in the parish
between the Scots and the Danes, when the Danes landed at Cul-
len, in the reign of Donald III.
IIL — Population.
I Amountof population in 1811, 1510
1821, 1482
18S], 1492
1841, . 1661
There is one resident family in the parish, that of Sir James
Innes, Bart of Balveny and Edingight. The people are, in ge-
neral, moral and exemplary, and attentive to their religious duties.
GUANGE. 217
IV. — Industry.
There is an extensive manufactory of lime in the parish, lime-
stone being inexhaustible. A great proportion of the small farms
have their-lime kilns, and in this way the lands have been most-
ly limed. Bone-manure is now much used, and wo have conse-
quently less fallow and more turnip. Bones seem to answer well
with the soil ; they produce very fine turnip, and not worse grass*
On the more extensive farms there are thrashing-mills, a great
convenience to the farmer. They might still be more general, as
they could be wrought in the localities, where there is no water,
by the young oxen, without much deterioration.
There is a bed of plumbago or black-lead at a place called Seg-
giecrookj a rare mineral in the north.
Harvest- labour has undergone a great change, shearing having
now been nearly abolished, and the scythe generally used.
Oats is the more general produce ; and the most prevalent kind
at present is what is called sandy-oats. Early Angus and Kil-
drummy are a good deal used. There are yearly a few fields of
barley, and some patches of bear or bigg. There is no meadow
hay ; it all consists of rye-grass, and white and red clover. The
six-shift in cultivation is generally followed, that is, two years in
grass, two in oats, one in green crop, and one in oats or barley,
laid down with grass for hay.
Farming is as well understood here, and the farms are in as
high a state of cultivation as any in Mid- Lothian. • On the large
farms of Braco, Floors, Berryleys, Muiryfold, Myrieton, Cantly,
and others, there are as fine horses and cattle as in any part of
the county. The farming utensils are of the best make and
mould. The iron plough is used, and of the best principle. The
smith and wright work are unrivalled. Our grain, and cattle,
and pork, meet a ready market in London. Many fine cattle are
here fed and shipped from the port at Banff for London yearly.
This is an improvement which was not dreamed of, when the last
Statistical Account was written.
There is no village in the parish, but there is a clachan, called
Nether-mills. There is a sub-post*ofBce, and only one public*
house in the parish.
There is a bridge over the Isla, which was *^ built by Alexan-
der Christie J tenant in CarUly^for the glory ofGod^ and the good
of the people of Grange^** as the inscription, which was graven
upon a stone in the bridge, bore. The stone is now supposed to be
218 BANPFSHlttB
in the bottom of the rivulet. It was erected by Mr Christie to
render the church accessible to the people of Cantly. One hun-
dred merks were lodged in the hands of the laird of Edingight, to
be laid out in repairing the bridge. This sum, no doubt, has been
long ago exhausted. The bridge was originally very narrow, hav-
ing been only intended for people on foot To make it passable by
carts, another of the same siz^ was added to it, in the year 1789,
the patron allowing the vacant stipend of that year to go to that
use* The two bridges, many years ago, threatened to separate ;
but, on the appearance of a breach between them, they were im<
mediately bound together by bolts of iron.
V. — Parochial Economy.
Grange was separated from Keith in 1618» of which it once
formed a part. Both of these parishes are church lands. The pre-
sent church was built in 1795, and contains 616 sittings, allowing
eighteen inches for each sitter. It is not well situated for the bulk of
the population, being within amile of one end of the parish. There
is a Secession meeting at the other end, the oldest, it is said, in the
north. There are, on an average, in the parish church, about 490
communicants, of which 155 are male heads of families ; in the
Secession meeting, perhaps 90, made up of hearers from this and
the surrounding parishes. Secession minister's sti))end is L. 70
yearly. The parochial manse and offices were built in 1814; the
offices are small, but the manse is large and good ; the glebe is five
acres of good land ; the stipend 14 J chalders^ Banffshire measure,
half barley, half meal, with L. 8^ 6s. 8d. of communion elements.
Lord Fife is patron.
Educatiofu — The school and school-house are limited in extent.
The salary is the maximum, viz. L.34, 4s. 4d. with a mortifica-
tion of L. 1, 2s. yearly, and the interest of L. 100, bequeathed
by the late Mr Bruce, minister of Dunbar. The master has the
benefit of the Dick Bequest.
There is a school on the General Assembly's- scheme, with a
salary of L. 25 yearly, and a cow's keep gratis, for the benefit of
which the people pay a rent, subscribed by the tenants in small
sums, to Sir James Innes, the proprietor, who refuses to sup-
ply the croft gratis. The school and school-house were built
by subscription in the year 1827, by the exertions of the
present minister. This seminary is of infinite importance in
this part of Grange, which would be otherwise entirely desti-
tute of the means of education. There are also two other schools
«
GRANGE. 219
on masters' own adventure, so that now every opportunity of
education is offered to all parts of the parish. The people esti-
mate, according to its true value, the instruction of their families.
Poor. — The poor, supplied from the funds, receive quarterly
each about 5s. or 4s. 6d. This is a very inadequate supply ; but
they receive much both in food and kindness from their more for--
tunate neighbours. The farmers are very charitable.
Miscellaneous OBSEnvATioNS.
This parish is much changed since the last Statistical Account
was written, having now very good roads and bridges, all kept in
thorough repair. There are several very large farms, beautifully and
substantially enclosed with limestone dikes, and well-kept hedge-
rows* The trees and plantations are now numerous and varied,
and there are many richly cultivated fields, and even farms that
were at that time heather and morass. On the farms of Haughs
and Mains of Grange, there is a most substantial embankment, a
mile long, on the Isla, erected at the expense of the heritor. On
the farms of Cantly, Clerkseat, Little Clerkseat, and Auchinhove,
the farmers have erected smaller embankments, at their own ex-
pense, by which much fine land has been protected from the ca-
lamities of flood and storm. In the year 1629, the flood on the
Isla was terrific, and the calamity memorable.
This parish has long been infested by cairds, tinkers, and stur-
dy-beggars ; but it may be hoped that the evil will soon be remov-
ed by the county police.
An extensive embankment is about to be raised on the farm of
Braco.
March 1849.
PARISH OF BOINDIE.
PRESBTTBRir OF FORDYCB, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN,
THE REV. A. ANDERSON, MINISTER.
I. — Topography and Natural History.
Name, — The ancient name of the parish was Inverboindie» /. e,
the mouth of the Boindie : the old church, now in ruins, being si-
tuated near the point at which the small stream of that name falls
into the sea. Boindie seems to be merely a diminutive from Boyn^
the name of a larger stream forming the western boundary of the
parish. The word Boyn, besides, anciently gave name to two feu-
dal territories, one named the thanedom^ the other they^re^^ of
Boyn. The thanedom included the chief part of this parish with
certain parts of Fordyce and Banff. The forest of Boyn lay both
to the east and west of the Forester's seat at Tarbriech, on the
shank of the Binnhill near Cullen, comprehending a large district
on the south and east of the parish of Fordyce, marching with the
thanedom, besides Blairmand in this parish. The bum of Boyn
thus appears to have traversed the centre of the district compre-
hended in the two holdings of the thanedom and the forest of
the BoyTU The word Bouin in Gaelic is understood to signify a
stream, and thus with aa^ a ford^ gives name to the parish of
Boyne^ at which there is a stream and a ford. Probably our name
Boyn^ which, in the reign of Robert Bruce, was spelt Bouyn^ has
the same origiu.
Extent and Boundaries, — The figure of the parish is triangu-
lar. On the south-east it extends about 5^ miles, and is bound-
ed by the parishes of Marnoch, Banff, and the sea ; on the north,
from 2 to 3 miles, and is bounded by the sea ; on the west, from
4 to 5 miles, and is bounded by the civil parish of Fordyce and
by Ordiquhill. The burn of Boindie forms the march towards the
south and east, except in reference to the lands of Baldavie, which
cross the said water, southward ;* the burn of Boyn, towards For-
* The hills of Boindie are here supposed to be in Banff, which is doubtful.
BOINDIE. 221
dyce ; atkd a streamlet falling into the latter, towards Ordiquhill.
By survey, the parish contains about 5000 acres, Scots measure.
Topographical Appearances, — The surface of the parish is pure-
ly of a lowland character, rather elevated, however, above the
sea-level, except the fine agricultural valley through which the
Boindie flows, which lies chiefly within the parish. The north-
ern coast, bounded by the Moray Frith, is chiefly rocky, with a
portion of sandy beach . At its eastern extremity, there is a point
of land called the Knockhead, extending into a reef of rocks, vi-
sible at half-tide, called the Salt Stones.* Here the coast turns
towards the south and forms one side of a bay. The shore be-
tween this point and the confluence of the Boindie with the sea^
extends less than a mile, and forms chiefly a beach of sand and
gravel.
Climate. — The climate in the lower part of the parish is dry and
salubrious ; that of the upper district, although removed only a few
miles, is, on the other hand, wet and cold.f We find the virulent
influence of the easterly wind on the human frame less complained
of here than in the country at the opening of the frith, and although
more steady frost occurs than on the immediate coast of the Ger-
man ocean, yet we experience sufiiciently the influence of the sea air
to enjoy the most sensible superiority, in this respect, over the in-
land districts to the south. The most prevalent winds are from
north-west and south-east ; violent gales are generally from the for-
mer point. From other causes than their greater violenceif, it is by
north-west storms almost exclusively that great damage is done to
the grain crops on the coast ; while their influence is attested by the
* It is understood that the grey rat was first imported into this part of the coun-
try from a ▼e^sel wrecked on this reef. Three or four of these ferocious creatures
were found m the act of killing the sixth of a litter of young pigs ; the former five
having been killed and devoured. 'Iliey are manifestly dangerous to young children,
f The cattle in'this last district are very liable to the disease known here by the name of
crcckles — in England called chine- fellon, which also occurs at one or two points in the
lower part of the parish where the soil and climate are similar. Its more immediate
cause seems to be the poverty of the pasture. This is inferred from the fact, that it
has been wholly banished from a small farm in the lower district, where it used great-
ly to prevail, since the tenant began regularly to fertilize his fields by an abundant
supply offish manure. It is a remarkable, as it appears to be a well ascertained fact,
that those farms on which it prevails in the upper part of this parish, and in the ad-
joining district of Fordyce parish, have been peculiarly liable to this disease, only
since the introduction of the sown grasses. Cattle affected with the disease are said
to be cured by being made to pasture either in a marshy uncultivated situation, or in
a fertile field. Thus the origin and the cure of the disease appear to illustrate the bad
cflTects of the practice, perhaps imavoidable under an alternate system of husbandry, of
cultivating the same grasses in aU varieties of soils and climates.
t Probably the cause of this fact is to be found in the usual dryness of north-west
storms, and their coming oflT the sea charged with salt spray unmixed with atmo-
spheric moisture, which seldom happens in the case of north-east storms. It has been
discovered that the blighted grain, if even partially filled, is quite available for seed.
222 BANFFSHIRE.
unifomi bend of trees in exposed situations. The parish appears
to be favoured in respect of the health and longevity of its inha-
bitants.* There have died since 1832, one person above 100, and
four or five above 90. There is now living a woman in her 100th
year. A more decisive test is to be found in the proportion of
persons above 70 years of age. The average over Scotland shews
about one in 86 who have passed this age. Here the proportion
is about one in 19.f
Hydrography. — There are no remarkable springs in the parish
except common chalybeate, to which description belongs a well
at the eastern boundary, much frequented in summer by persons
from the inland districts, with all ranks of whom it is very custom-
ary to spend one or two weeks annually at the sea side.
Soily jfc. — A portion of the soil, chiefly on the lands of Boindie
and Dallachy, on the eastern part of the parish, is a black sandy
mould, of a considerable depth, with an open subsoil, fertile
and early. The soil of Reattie, Baldavie, and Raggal, in the
middle of the parish, is chiefly clay and clay loam, part of it highly
productive. But the larger part of the parish, including a pro-
portion of the lands specified, is a rather light soil, incumbent on
a close subsoil, and is of inferior productiveness.
The direction of the strata is north by east. They have been
subjected to disturbance of so violent and irregular a nature, that
it is impossible to assign any particular direction to the dip. The
prevailing rock in the eastern district is believed to be greywacke,
which alternates frequently with a micaceous clay slate. Among
these there occur frequent veins of quartz, the upheaving of which
may be supposed to have acted as a disturbing force to the strata.
To the west of the greywacke, hornblende rock, much of it assum-
ing a slaty character, occupies the sea coast for upwards of a mile,
and appears in various places upwards of a mile inland to the south.
Numerous and large boulders of the same rock are found scatter-
ed along the coast, and prevailing in a south and south-west direc«
* It is worthy of being recorded that this parish, in oommon with a large part of
the north-east coast of Smtland, was exempted from the scourge of cholera. During
the first fortnight of the year 1837, however, we were subjected to an epidemic, which,
if the number afftwted by it be taken into account, was only less serious than the Aaia-
tic scourge. This was the influensa, which scarcely a single (kmily, and lew indivi*
duals here escaped. It was attended by fever, pain in the bones, often violent aflTec-
tion of the h««d, severe cough, and stifling, and great prostration of strength. Withia
the short period^ mentioned above, eleven persons, most of them old or infirm, were
cut off out of this limited population, and the constitutions of many received a shock
by which their lives will have been shortened.
f The proportion in the sea-lkring population is 1 in 19.5 ; in the agricultural do.,
1 in 19.8; a striking proof of the operation of a law.
BOINDIB. 223
tion inland for several miles. * To the west of the hornblende,
limestone, apparently of primitive formation, prevails to the west-
em boundary. Several veins of it occur in the greywacke, and
were at one time extensively wrought for burning. Immediately
beyond the western boundary, on the opposite side of the burn, it
is still largely and successfully wrought for the same purpose. A
imall granite vein, the only instance of this rock known in the
parish, appears in the limestone, on both sides of the bum, at this
point The limestone here is remarkable for the excessive con-
tortions which its structure presents.
A laige mass of diluvial clay forms the upper part of the Knock-
bead to the east of Whitehills, and has long been wrought for the
manufacture of bricks and tiles. Numerous small boulders are
found in it containing petrifactions. Among these are Belemnites,
Cornu ammonis, &c also occasional impressions of vegetables.!
Fishm — The various kinds of fish common on the east coast, in-
cluding the herring and salmon, frequent the Moray Frith opposite
to this parish. The herring has visited our coast in rather decreased
numbers for several years. Haddocks are generally found most
abundant after a continuance of easterly winds. During several
past seasons, they have appeared in unprecedented "numbers.
There are found on the shores of this parish numerous stones
bored and honeycombed in a singular manner4 In the holefi are
found generally small shell fish, called pholas. These are under-
stood to be furnished with an acid, by means of which they exca*
vate for themselves in the rock the curious habitation which it
has been intended that they should occupy.
PlarUationg. — The plantations consist of Scots fir, wiih some
mixture of larch, beech, and other trees fitted to the poorer soils ;
but, the subsoil being very generally close and retentive, they can-
not be said to be remarkably thriving. Where this unfavourable
influence is absent, the kinds specified appear to answer very well,
* Tlieee are Tulgarly known by the name of *^ Becnie blues" or ** Blue heathens.**
Many of tbem have been retnoTed in the progress of agriculture. The method of
breaking them is by kindling a fire on the upper surface of the stone, and then sud*
denly changing its temperature by an affusion of cold water. In this way Hannibal
cicavated a path through the Alps ; and it it said to be generally employed in Africa
at the pre^nt day.
t The geology and botany of this district have been scientifically investigated by
John Shier, Esq. Lecturer on Natural Hi^ory in Marischal College, Aberdeen.
X These, placed under a bed, are believed by some to be a protection against night.
mare ! Superstitions, some of them too ridiculous to be mentioned, still linger
among the more ignorant. It is a humiliating fact, that two women here, a mother
and daughter in succestioo, the latter of whom died lately, obtained their livelihood
chiefly by pretending to practise the blaek art. Their practice lay not « in their own
country***
BANFF,
"224 BANFFSHIHfe.
Hard-wood trees are vigorous and healthy in the vicinity of the
Castle of Boyn, where, though so much under the influence of
the sea air, they prove the perfect congeniality of our climate to
the more valuable kinds of native wood, when enjoying the com*
bined advantages of shelter and fertile soil. The orchard of the
castle yields abundant crops of the black and red wild cherry.
II. — Civil History.
History, — There is a manuscript history of the town and parish
of Banff in the *hands of Patrick Rose, Esq. Sheriff-clerk, drawn
up by his late father, which contains some notices of the ancient
land-owners of this district. The same gentleman possesses the
decreet of disjunction of Banif from this parish, of which it for-
merly was a parts dated 1 7th June 1635. Plans of nearly the
whole lands of the parish are in the hands of the noble proprietor.
By tradition this parish is held to have been the scene of an en-
gagement with the Danes, at a point near the old church. Ac-
cordingly, a trench, 611ed with bones of a large size, is known to
exist on the north side of the road, about thirty yards from the
churchyard. The field to the north of the road is at the present
day known by the name of the '* Arrdanes," and another on the ris^
ing ground to the east is called the ^* Swurd danes ;" names believ*
ed to carry in them the remembrance of the position of two several
divisions of the invading Northmen, armed with arrows and with
swords. Was this the battle in which Indulf, the Scottish King,
was slain, a. d. 968? It took place " in littore Boince** Yet
it may be fairly doubted whether Cullen, also within the district of
Boyne, has not a preferable claim to the honour of having been
the locality of that battle. More probably this was one of the
engagements under Malcolm II. contemporaneous with tho«e at
Gamrie and Cruden. The connexion of the patron saint of the
parish with that king, and the known taste of the latter for build-
ing churches, in acknowledgement of his victories, and restoring
those wasted in his wars, favours the supposition, that the church
of this parish, dedicated to St Brandon,* had owed its existence
or restoration to his liberality in connexion with such an event as
is supposed in its neighbourhood.f
* Brandon was a naonk of the order of St Benedict, who died about a, d. 1000-
His festival was held on 16th May. Brandon feir, now held in Banif, formerly, it is
understood, in " Brannan Hmo^ near the old church, takes place on 26th May, N. S.
He had been held in great estimation and personal friendship by Malcolm II. pre*
viously to Malcolm*s victorious career against the Danes as King of Scotland, which
dignity he only obtained iu 1003, after the date of Brandon's death.
t The events referred to in the teyt seem to warrant us in assertipg, what is not
generally known, that Scotland, at least, has been saved from slavery, not once>only,
j^y a " battle of the Boyne."
BOINDIE. 225
Antiquities, — Various military antiquities, discovered here, a^e
worthy of notice ; some of them, perhaps, connected with the Da-
nish engagement referred to. To the west of the locality, described
in connection with it, on the rocky eminences on the north side of
the road, two circular encampments may still be traced. Immedi«
ately below the upper one of these, on the southern declivity, stands
a large perpendicular stone, surrounded by a causeway. A little
beyond this, on the opposite side of the road, not far from the
site of the old mansion-house of Buchragie, may be traced the
huge remains of what may possibly have been a Roman camp.
On a field lying to the north-east of the manse, and on the south
side of the Banff and Portsoy road, there may be traced a large
circular excavation, supposed to mark the site of an ancient en-
campment. In this neighbourhood, and over the district, nume-
rous flint arrow-heads have been turned up by the plough ; many
of them of a yellow kind of flint, not found in boulders in this
part of the country. A short Roman* sword was found in the
bogs of Reattie, and lodged in the armoury at DuS* House. Iti
the immediate neighbourhood of the manse offices, on the west
side, a stone coffin with its contents was found a number of years
ago, and deposited again in its place. A huge red s(one is said
to have stood about this spot before the erection of the offices.
Three Druidical circles are known to the writer in the parish ;
one near the parish church, another within a mile to the north-
east, and a third on the farm of Bankhead. At some distance to
the south of the last, on the same rising ground, known by the
name of the Lodgehills, are to be seen a number of large stones,
not, however, circularly disposed, commonly called the Bfannan
Stanes. Under one of these, an urn, containing coins, said to
have been much defaced, was found a number of years ago. On
the field to the north-east of the manse, already described, and
on the line of an old road, was found-f* a few years ago, a seal,
composed of fine clay slate, at first supposed to bear the arms of
Archbishop Sharp, who was a native of Banff. These have been
since proved to be the armorial bearings of Bishop James Kennedy,
also of St Andrews, who founded the University of St Andrews, iu
* The great Roman road to Burghead is believed to have crossed by the hill of
Barry, near the Knoc'khill. A hypothesis is hazarded by some, and maintained oo
plausible grounds, that the Knock hill is the Mons Grampius of Tacitus.
f By Mr Alexander Gumming, in Graigherbs, who himself takes considerable
interest in matters of antiquity ; and although a man of limited education, ba» no
mean powers as a writer of verses.
226 BANFFSHIUE.
the fifteenth century. Around the fannily arms, and the cro9«r of St
Andrew, surmounted by the mitre, appears the legend ** Jacobus
Episcopns Sancti Andre/' Near the north-east corner of the
wood of Whyntie,* is an artificial mound, known by the name of
the Gallows cairn, on which tradition of course testifies that many
suffered by the righteous or capricious decree of their feudal lord.
Unplanted avenues have been left, from this point towards the
mansions of Boyn, Inchdrewer, &c., report says, as a memorial of
the right enjoyed by the surrounding barons in common, of award-
ing to their vassals, at pleasure, the crowning and peculiar privi*
lege of the place. Another gallows cairn exists in the parish, on
the summit of the Lodgehills, deriving its name from having been
the place of execution of a man and woman, who conspired in
putting to death the husband of the latter, farmer in Midtown of
Badenspink, in Fordyce parish, about the beginning of last ceo*
tury. About thirty yards to the east of the steading, on the farm
of Dallachy, below the old road, five or six urns, containing the
remains of bones, were found a few years aga They were of
rude construction, except one, which is said to have been well
shaped, ornamented with diagonal lines crossing each other, and
surmounted by a lid and handle. The adjoining houses were
built on a reputed Elf hillock. Another similar urn was found
a few years ago at the base of a small circular mound, at the lower
extremity of the plantation extending from Craig-herbs to the
turnpike road. Many such barrows have been opened in this part
of the country. There is much reason to doubt whether they
were Roman.
Eminent Persons.'-^The parish had the honour of giving birth
to Thomas Ruddiman, the eminent Latin grammarian, and libra-
rian to the Faculty of Advocates, whose father, James Ruddiman,
was farmer at Raggal. His name does not appear in the paro-
chial register, which only commences at a distance of above twenty
years after the time of his birth, said to have been in the year
1674. Here also was born a personage whose fame is of a
different character, Mrs Buchan, the founder of a religious sect
* The late Mr James Morrison, tenant of Wbjntie obtained unexpected publicity
fw bis name, as being tbe subject of a famous letter by the Lord Advocate to the
SherifT-suhstitute of the county in December 1803, which, having found its way to
Mr Whitbread, furnished him with an occasion of effectively vindicating the prin-
ciples of British liberty. Persons from England visited Whyntie, expecting to
see a representative of the Hambdens of other days. Mr Morrison declined. a pro-
posal by bis fellow parisbionert, to institute an action at law in this case, to be car*
rjed on at their own expense.
BOINDIE. 227
in the west of Scotland. An account of her history may be found
in Chambers' Scottish Biographical Dictionary. She is said to
have made several proselytes in her native parish.
Parochial Registers. — The parochial register of baptisms ap*
pears to have been kept with considerable regularity from ITOO,
the date of the first entry, till about 1770.* From this period till
1827, greater or less irregularity and incompleteness are observ-
able. Till 1827, the marriage register consists of only a few frag-
ments, having reference to the beginning of last century. There
is no proper register of burials. Some interesting minutes of ses-
sion are pre^served for the period intervening between 1698 and
1706.t
Proprietors* — The Elarl of Seafield, who succeeded the late Earl
of Findlater and SeaGeld, is sole proprietor. The chief part of the
land formerly belonged to the family of Ogilvie of Boyn, Baronets.
This family, in common with the families of Findlater and of Banff,
(the latter of which is represented by Abercromby of Birkenbog,
Bart.) was a branch of the house of Airlie. Sir Walter Ogilvie
of Boyn, great-grandson of Sir Walter Ogilvie of Auchterhouse,
* The witnesses, whether two or more, appear to have been uniformly of the same
Christian name with the child baptized, if a male, for instance, under date April
10, I7d8, ** George Allan, in Upper Blairmade, had a lawful! son baptised, called
Alexander,—- Alexander Irvine, minister of Fordyce ; Alexander Law, younger, Alex*
ander Peterkine in Newmill, and Alexander Ogilvie in Culfin, witnesses.*' In the
event of the name being an uncommon one, a difficulty would occur in finding the
qualified witnesses. In one instance, at the baptism of a '^ Theodore," the parties
of this name introduced are designed *^ godfathers."
f Besides an annual payment by the session of L.4 Scots
prietor firom the fishing-boats. The proprietor furnishes each crew
with one boll meal and 100 merks Scots, to aid in buying a new
boat once in seven years, if required. For about an acre and a
quarter of potato land, and the use of the boat, a crew pay L. 5
yearly rent. A good boat for the haddock-fishing costs L. 17,
and will run eleven or twelve years. Instead of receiving the above
allowance, and giving up the boat to the proprietor at the end of
seven years, the fishermen are now agreeing to pay L« 4 per an-
num each crew for right of fishing, including potato land, with
freedom to possess boats of their own. Men above sixty years of
age are allowed to fish free of rent* Muscle bait is brought an-
nually from Sutherlandshire. Price of a boat's cargo, L. 3, be-
sides the labour of gathering*
The lobster-fishery is prosecuted by five or six boat crews by
means of basket-nets, and the produce sent to London periodical-
ly in the well smacks. 1 100 lobsters were caught last season, price
4d. each. The large number which die greatly increase the price
to the purchasers.
The salmon-fishery has been carried on of late years by bag-
nets at Blackpots, near Whitehills, with progressively increasing
success. The average produce from 1834 to 1837 amounted to
about L.225 yearly. The salmon are either iced, or boiled and
pickled with vinegar, and forwarded to the London market. I'he
rent, understood to be paid by a subtenant for the fishery carried
on here and at Findochty, may be estimated for the Boindie sta-
tion, at L. 50, one-half of the whole, besides twenty per cent, on
the fish caught above a certain amount.
The average gross amount of raw produce may be estimated as
follows : —
1600 actes gruin, 5 qrs. per acre, at L. I, 78. 6d. including fodder, L. 1 1,000
500 acres turnips, at L. 6 per acre, - L. 3000
150 acres potatoes, at L.10 per acre, - - 1500
Green crop in whole, -i.......^ 4,500
200 acres hay, at 160 stones per acre, at 6d. per stone, - 1,600
1000 oxen grazed, young and old, at L.2, lOs. - . 2,500
I^oduce of gardens, ^- - - • - «• 4000
Thinnings of wood, *- - - - » 160 00
Fisheries, ...... dOOO
250 horses grazed, young and old, at L.3, ... 750
Other miscellaneous produce, - • > - - 250
L.2d,800
Manufactures, — A manufacture of bricks, tiles, &c is carried
on at Blackpots, near Whitehills. Eleven hands are employed in
338 BANFFSHIRE.
the manufacture in the summer season. In winter, four or five
are employed in preparing the clay. In consequence of this last
operation being insufiBciently performed, the work had fallen into
disrepute, and therefore probably has not been a remunerating con-
cern for a considerable time, but, under careful management, it
has again begun to command a large trade. The introduction of
tile-draining may be expected still greatly to increase it Price of
rooBng tiles per hundred, 7s. 6d. ; draining do. without bottoms,
Ss. per hundred ; bricks, 3s. 6d. per hundred.
The bleaching and preparation of threads and stockings for the
market was formerly prosecuted extensively at old bridge of Boin-
die, in connection with Messrs Robinson's manufactory in Banff.
Both the manufactory and bleachfield, with other similar works in
this part of Scotland, have been long ago abandoned. At the
above point there is now a saw-mill in full employment,* — work
executed at Is. dd. per 100 feet of wood. Several miles up the
stream, on the Boindie side, there are two meal-mills. On the
bum of Boyn, there is a wool carding mill, largely employed, chief-
ly for country work, where the weaving and dyeing of cloth is also
carried on. On this stream, there were formerly two lint-mills ;
one is abandoned, and the other little employed. Proceeding down-
wards from these, there is a flour and barley mill, and a meal mill.
The astriction of lands to particular mills is now in the course of
being abolished ; and the multures have been commuted into a
money payment with the rent. The multures, including service
on some lands previously to this change, amounted to one*eleventh
of the wh«>le grain milled. The charge for milling oats is from 6d.
to 8d. per boll.
V. — Parochial Economt.
Market-Toum^ Sfc — The nearest market-town on the east side
of the parish is Banff, at the distance of a mile and a half from
the boundary. Portsoy stands at a like distance on the west. In
each of these, there is a post-office and a ready market for grain,
and in the former, for the produce of the dairy. The only village
in the parish is Whitehills, already described. . The turnpike road
from Banff to Portsoy extends above three miles within this pa-
rish from east to west ; and the branch which diverges from it to
Keith and Huntlyonthe left, extends a distance of about two miles
to the point at which it joins Ordiquhill. These, and the several
county roads pass the streams by which the parish is bounded by
* In oonncetion with it, there is now a pit for kyanizing wood, &c.
DOINDIE. 239
bridges mostly sufficient, at ten separate points. There is a small
harbour at Whitehills^ having ten to eleven feet depth of water at
spring-tides, serving for the landing of herrings in the fishing sea«
son, and admitting two or three vessels for the exportation of her-
rings, and the importation of salt, coals, &c. There is another
small harbour a little to the east, near to the brick-work at Black-
pots, intended for the exportation of tiles, and like the former, af-
fording accommodation for the prosecution of the herring- fishery.
At this point, too, the salmon-fishery is carried on.
Ecclesiastical State — The church is situated at the distance of
five miles from the south-west extremity, and nearly two miles
from the north-east extremity of the parish. Since the erection
of the new church at Ord, with which 250 of the population, in
the remote district, have naturally connected themselves, the
situation of the church is sufficiently central and convenient It
was built in 1773, when the old church, the ruins of which still
exist in the burying-ground, near the sea, was abandoned. It is
comfortably fitted up, and in good repair.
There was left, in the year 1809, by the Rev. James Stewart,
a native of the parish, and a clei^yman of the Church of England,
in the late American colonies, in trust to the kirk -session and
the presbytery, a sum now amounting to L.391, intended to yield
L.1, iOs. of an annual gratuity to each of six poor persons of the
parish, and the same allowance, as a bursary, for defraying the
education expenses of six poor boys of the parishioners.
The church afibrds accommodation for 600 persons. The poor
are freely accommodated in the seats attached to the land, and in
a gallery held in trust by the kirk-session* The manse was built,
for the first time, in its present situation, a year or two after the
removal of the church. The old manse is still habitable, not less
so than its successor, which is in an insufficient state.* The glebe
extends to about seven Scots acres, and may be worth L.7 per
annum. The stipend is 15 chalders ; equal parts of meal and
barley. It has ranged, since the commencement of the writer's
incumbency in 1880, from L.172 to L.284. L.8, 6s. 8d. is al-
lowed for communion elements.
There is no chapel of ease, or other additional place of reli-
gious worship, within the boundaries of the parish ;t but there was
* A very commodious new manse is now nearly finished near the present site.
March 1842.
t The Methodists have lately erected a small chapel in Whitehills, the use of
which is liberally allowed to the writer and his people on Ssblrath evenings.
BANFF. Q
240 BANFFSHIRE.
m
erected, in 1834, at Ord, in the extreme west end of Banff parish,
a chapel, intended, partly, for the accommodation of the remote
parishioners of Boindie, in which a minister has been ordained,
enjoying an allowance of L.20 per annum from th^ Royal Bounty.
The whole adult population, with more or less regularity, at-
tend the Established Church, except, attending the chapels of
Dissenters of different denominations, 35 ; Methodists, 20 ; Epis-
copalians, 12 ; Roman Catholics, 2 ; comprehending in all, 69
individuals, and about 20 families.
Divine service is generally well attended, except by the farm-
servants, and a certain number of families of the lower classes,
chiefly in the village, sunk in poverty and its attendant evils. We
certainly are strangers to the nearly uniform decency with which
some parochial communities are blessed, whilst, at the same time,
we are not without some development of spiritual good. Two
facts may be stated, well fitted to illustrate the state of society
thus described. During the writer's incumbency, there have been
resident in the parish eight women, all except one having fami*
lies, deserted by their husbands. On the other hand, there are,
in the village of Whitehills, from twenty to thirty men, who can
conceive and utter an extempore prayer with no less fluency, and
with little less propriety, than most educated ministers, and of
whom it may be testified, without claiming for them graces in pro-
portion to their gifts, that, on the whole, their conduct is not in-
consistent with their profession. There are several meetings for
prayer and mutual instruction, of which the writer can speak,
among the members of the Established Church ; and he believes
they have been the means o{ advancing true religion in some de-
gree in the parish.
The average number of communicants is about 400, besides a
proportionate number in the population attached to the Ord Chapel.
There is a parochial association for religious purposes, partly
subordinate to a presbyterial association extending over the district.
The funds are collected quarterly. A moiety of them, not ex-
ceeding one-half, are applicable to religious objects within the pa-
rish, as providing books for the Sabbath schools, educating poor
children, providing Bibles for the poor. The remainder is des-
tined to be applied for the support of the Bible Society, and such
of the General Assembly's schemes for propagating the Gospel
at home and abroad, as the contributors may select. There has
been collected, during the three years of its existence, on an ave-
BOINDIE. 241
rnge, about the sum of L.ld^annually^ of which above two*thirds
have been applied to religious objects not in the parish.
There are, besides, two collections yearly, for a Presbyterial
Pauper Lunatic Fund, and for the Aberdeen Infirmary ; the two
together amounting on an average to L.7 Sterling, The whole
sum collected in church for charitable objects, is about L.45 per
annum. Subscriptions are occasionally entered into, to procure
a supply of fuel and clothing for the poor, which have amounted
usually to L. 12 or L.15. Besides, there have in recent years
been large contributions for church extension, new schools, apd
for the starving Irish and Highlanders.
There are three schools in the parish taught by masters, an in-
fant school, several dame schools, and numerously attended Sab-
bath schools. The parochial schoolmaster has the minimum sa-
lary, with the legal accommodations ; but enjoys an interest in the
admirably administered bequest of the late Mr Dick. In addition
to the common branches, he teaches Latin, Greek, geography,
and the higher branches of mathematics. The two additional
schools, one of which is at a distance of nearly three miles towards
the upper extremity of the parish, and the other is at Whitehills,
within a mile and a half, receive, from the liberality of the pro-
prietor, L.8, 9s. 6^d. divided between them, and also three bolls
of meal each. Each possesses an excellent school and schooU
house built by subscription. There is no need of an additional
school, except it be for females. Those already in existence might
be more conveniently situated. Indeed, since the erection of a
new parochial school in the adjoining district of BaniF parish, two
only, judiciously placed, might be made to serve the wants of the
whole community. The union of the two small salaries attached
to the additional schools might, in this case, warrant the reduction
of the fees, which, althougti varying only from 2s. 6d. to 38. 6d.
per quarter, are obviously too high for the means of a poor la-
bourer having to support a family out of an income of from L.10
to L.15 per annum. The infant school has recently been insti-
tuted in Whitehills, to be supported by voluntary subscriptions
from the Honourable Mrs Grant-f and others. If well conducted,
* Compare tbu with L.^0 given for whisky by the fifib-eurer» to the peraoos en-
gaged in the herring-fishery ; and this is the merest fraction of what is q>ent in the
same way throughout the year.
t We have since had to hunent the removal of this Christian and benevolent
lady, by death.
242 BANFFSHIRE/
it must exercise an important influence in obviating the unfavour*
able circumstances, already adverted to, to which the children of
a fishing population are peculiarly subjected. The number at-
tending school, including infant and dame schools, and an evening
school, about]^22G ; Sabbath schools, Ord district excluded, about
170; Bible class, ditto, about 8(X
The writer does not know any of the community between six
and fifteen who cannot read or write. There are a few individuals
above fifteen, who, to all useful purposes, labour under this inabi-
lity. This applies to the resident population. .Persons are fre-
quently met with among the migratory class of farm-senrants whose
education has been totally neglected.
. Library^ — A parochial library, consisting of an excellent collec-
tion of works in religion and general knowledge, has been in exist-
ence a good many years. It contains 164 volumes. The sub-
scription is now only 6d. half-yearly.
Friendly Society. — A Friendly Society was in existence in
Whitehills ; but it was broken up and the funds divided on the
passing of the act for new modelling this class of institutions.
Savings Bank. — The parish schoolmaster acts gratuitously both
as parochial librarian and as receiver of deposits for the Banff
Central Savings Bank, on the national security system. The fish-
ermen usually deposit their savings in considerable sums, after the
herring-fishery, in the common banks, and the other great labour-
ing class, who might have something to lay by, are generally
strangers in the parish, and therefore not likely to make deposits
in it, even were they inclined to save, — hence the privileges of this
institution have not been extensively embraced.
PooT^^ /"ttjkff.— About 40 persons have been accustomed to re-
ceive stated parochial relief. At present, the number on the roll
is 35. About five persons generally are in the receipt of a weekly
allowance at the rate of Is. each. A quarterly distribution takes
place, at which sums of 4s. and 5s. are allotted to the whole poor
on the roll. The funds arise from, church collections annually,
Xi.36, 10s.; interest of money, L.32, 13s. 4d. This does not in-
clude Mr Stuart's bequest, recorded above.* It is a peculiarity
in our parochial economy, that the poor funds of the fishing and
the general population have always been kept distinct from each
other. The seafaring community occupy a gallery by themselves,
which admits of the separation of their contributions. Part of the
* Tiiere is also an annual distribution of nine bolls of nneal given by the proprietor.
boindie:. 243
bunii from which the interest above stated arises, is leni out in
their name.*
Fairs. — A fair for the sale of cattle, &c has been lately insti-
tuted at Ordens, in the western part of this parish, appointed to
be held eight times in the year, and promises to be a great accom-
modation for the disposal of fed stock in the winter season.
Publie*Home$. — We have five public-houses or spirit-shops in
Whitehills, and three in the landward districLf Three, instead of
eight, would be a liberal supply for the real wants of the public.
However decent the character of their occupiers, the remaining
'five, in a public view, are to be simply regarded as so many li-
censed traps, spread over the parish for the demoralization of the
unwary traveller or neighbour.
Fuel. — Peat fuel, from the mosses lying to the southward, is still
chiefly used for the ugper district, and, to a considerable extent,
even on the coast A mixture of peat and wood is generally
used for smoke-drying haddocks.
Miscellaneous Observations.
The agricultural state of the parish has changed very remarkably
Bince the date of the last Statistical Account. The small posses-
sions, with their thatched cottages, which were then numerous, have
now chiefly disappeared, and spacious fields surrounding insulated,
and in some instances elegant buildings have taken their place.
The alternate system of husbandry has become firmly rooted. In-
stead of 60 acres of turnips, we have now 500. Thrashing-mills,
not one of which had then been introduced, are now descending
even to the class of crofters. Th^ farmers have grown in wealth
and luxury, and, in a corresponding degree, in a spirit of honour-*
able enterprise and activity.
The fishing population have also been greatly advanced in their
outward condition.
It is to be lamented that no similar improvement has taken
place in the condition of a large part of the labouring classes, if we
except the increased cheapness of clothing having greatly advanced
the comfort of many of them under this head. Elderly single wo-
men, for instance, are probably in a worse situation than at the date
* Were the tendency not continually checked, the pauperiam of the parish would
be greatly increased. There are a number of persons removed a single grade in their
circumstances above those on the roll who would at once become a burden on the pub-
lic funds. When widows are left with families, a public subscription is generally
raised, by which, well husbanded, most of them are carried through their difficulties.
t One respectable person, the principal spirit vender in the village, has since
abandoned the trade.
244 DANFFSUIBE.
of last Account, When able for occasional field labour, earning by
this 8d. a day without food, in the summer season they have chiefly
to depend for winter sustenance on what they can save from this pit*
tance, a week's industrious application to the spinning wheel yielding
them only about sixpence. The male agricultural labourer when
married enjoys a bare supply of the necessaries of life, and| when
overtaken with premature old age, has too often to struggle with
this, aggravated by the ills of poverty, or to receive a stinted al-
lowance, or to occupy an unwelcome place in the family of a child.
The rate of remuneration for the several branches of labour is
probably beyond all direct human control. Yet much might ba
done by proprietors, masters, and philanthropists generally, to
ameliorate the condition of this class, by taking every means to
break up their migratory habits, by subjecting them to the influ-
ence of domestic instruction and restraints, by the introduction of
the hind or cottar system* on large farms, instead of the demoralis-
ing influence of the bothy, by encouraging saving habits and the
use of savings' banks, by destroying or better regulating the sys-
tem of hiring in markets, and by using every effort to remove those
licensed temptations to drunkenness and improvidence in markets
and otherwise, to which reference has been made.
On the whole, it is to be hoped that the morality of the com-
munity has advanced since the end of last century. Many things
then openly practised are now esteemed more or less disreputable,
as, for instance, among many, the drunkenness then esteemed so
large an ingredient in good fellowship, profanity, smuggling, &c.
It is to be lamented that licentiousness, lying, and reckless habits
of backbiting, have hitherto given little evidence of being on the
decline. By the blessing of God's Spirit, on the grand and ap-
pointed instrument of human regeneration, we trust that another
similar period may see these and all kindred obstacles to man's
well-being effectually overcome.
* The present and the former Statistical Account contain testimonies to the happy
working of this system in districts where it has long prevailed. See Aooountf of Lang-
ton, Hutton, Berwickshire ; Linton, Roxburghshire ; also Sir John Sinclair*s Ana-
lysis of Old Account, p. 261.
Drawn up December 1 839.
Revised March 1 642.
PARISH OF RATHVEN.
PRESBYTERY 0¥ FORDYCE, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN.
THE REV. JAMES GARDINER, MINISTER.
L — Topography and Natural History.
Namtf ^c. — ** Rathven," according to the writer of the last
Statistical report of this parish, *^ is said, by those conversant in
the Gaelic language, to be derived from two original words, the
one signifying ^ brake' or ^ fern,' and the other ^ rock, eminence,
or hillock.'" In support of this derivation he adds, *^ that there
is a spot in the neighbourhood of the church called Brakenhaugh,
and a farm named Rannachie, t. e, the Brakenfield." This, how-
ever, is quite an erroneous derivation of the name. The spelling
of the term in Gaelic is " iia/A-JAeawn," or " A^anTS,"— -the for-
mer meaning a *^ circle of stones," and the latter '* a hill" or
^' mountain." That this, therefore, is the true etymology of the
name, we have only, in order to satisfy ourselves, to look to the
Benhill, which overhangs that part of the parish situated towards
the south, and examine the numerous cairns found in various
parts of it, especially on the Bauds, which shall be duly noticed
under the head Antiquities.
Extent and Boundaries. — This parish is situated in the district
of the county named Enzie. It extends along the coast, from east
to west, 10 miles, and nearly 5 in breadth ; and is bounded on the
north, by the Moray Frith; on the east and south-east, by the
parishes of CuUen and Deskford ; on the south, by Deskford and
Keith ; and on the west, by Bellie. It contains 27,000 Scotch
acres, or d-%750 imperial, and 42} square miles. Annual value
of the real property in the parish, as assessed in 1815, L.73d6.
Topographical Appearances, — Its figure is rather irregular, but
approaches nearer to the form of a parallelogram than any other,
though the square diminishes considerably towards the east* There
is an extensive range of hills stretching from the Benhill on the
246
BANFFSHIRE.
south-east, which bounds the southern part of the parish westward.
The Benhiil, the highest, is 945 feet above the level of the sea,
and serves as a land-roark to the fishermen, being seen by them,
according to their calculation, at fully fifteen leagues distance.
The other two hills, Maud and Adie, are of less elevation, and co-
vered with heath to their summits. They extend, in a westerly
direction, to the boundaries of the parish. The Benhill has been
much improved of late by the Earl of Seafield causing a carriage-
road to be made, which, by a circuitous course, leads to its top,
the view from which, in all directions, is most extensive and com-
manding. Previous to 1 744, this hill was covered with heath, but
it was then richly planted to the very summit.
Climate and SoiL — The greatest part of the parish has a north-
west exposure, and suffers severely from the storms which blow
from that quarter. The most prevalent complatnts are rheuma-
tism and catarrhs, brought on by the alternations of heat and cold,
particularly among the fishermen, who are exposed to all vicissi-
tudes of weather. It may be remarked, that, in the year 1794,
notwithstanding the large population of this parish, no medical
man thought it worth his while to settle within its boundaries. At
present, there are two surgeons and one apothecary in the village
of Buckie*
Surfaeey ^c, — The surfiice may be described as rather moun-
tainous, with some low-lying ground of good quality and conside-
rable breadth from the sea- shore to the base of the hiUs on the
south. The hills, as already mentioned, are covered with heath
or moss, and afford very little pasture, the soil being either hard
gravel, or of a mossy character resting upon a bottom of clay
very retentive of moisture. On the low grounds, part of the soil
is a light loam, rich, with a clay bottom ; in another part, it is ra-
ther thin, and rests on a red kind of clay formed from the debris
of the old red sandstone, but at the same time is very productive.
Along the sea*shore it is sandy, and covered with an immense
quantity of small stones, evidently rounded by the action of the
sea, which, during ages long gone past, must have flowed over this
part of the country.
Hydrography. — The Moray Frith bounds this parish from east
to west, towards the north, for ten miles. There is nothing re-
markable with regard to the nature of the water, as to colour,
temperature, luminousness, saltness, or the flowing of the tides.
The shore abounds with Medusae, or sea-jellies. The depth of
RATHVEN. 247
water at the village of Findochtie, the property of Earl Seafield^
is 24 feet, and the breadth of the entrance into the bason, which
is well protected, 270 ; thus affording sufficient water and safe an-
chorage, if converted into a harbour, for ships of very considerable
tonnage. This parish is intersected by several rapid running
bums or streamlets, all of which have their source in the high
grounds within itp bounds, and empty themselves into the sea at
Portgordon, Buckie, and Gollachie. There are several medici*
nal springs. One of these is situated at Burn of Oxhill, and id
much resorted to by people from the inland parts of the country
with their children, while labouring under hooping-cough ; but the
benefit resulting from it is believed to be more imaginary than
real, as change of air is always known to be of great advantage in
this complaint There are also two chalybeate springs, one at
Gollachie, and the other in the immediate neighbourhood of New
Buckie, much frequented, particularly the latter, by people who
come thither for sea* bathing, and drinking the water of this well.
At Findochtie, a spring of a purgative nature, issuing from a rock
considerably within flood-mark, is occasionally drunk by the inha-
bitants, and those who reside in the neighbourhood. There is an
abundant supply of perennial spring water, free both from the car-
bonates of lime and iron.
Mineralogy. — The prevailing strata along the coast bordering
this parish, are rocks of the primitive Neptunian series, viz. gneiss,
mica-slate, clay-slate, and schist ; and the direction of the strata
is from north-east to south-west ; and the dip of the rocks !» north-
west and south-east. The angle of elevation varies at different
places. Adjacent to Buckie, where the rocks have been laid bare
by the action of the sea, some are perceptible at an angle of about
25^, others at 90^ At the north-east part of the parish, near the
burn of Cullen, the old red sandstone commences, which is in con-
junction with greywacke to the eastward; and the thickness of
that bed extending to the westward is very ^reat, particularly
where the new red sandstone is found overlying the old red sand-
stone formation. The new red sandstone appears at that point in
nearly horizontal strata, and dips to the south and south-east
The greywacke here, and along the coast, alternates with clay and
mica-slate, which reposes on the greywacke. The bed appears
to be of considerable thickness. Its direction is from north-east
to south-west ; and it is the prevailing rock within the parish.
But the greywacke is protruded through the clay and mica-slate
248 BANFFSHIRE.
at different points along the coast, and in the interior as far to the
westward as Buckie. There the clay and roica-slate alternate
with thin veins of coarse limestone, till a short way to the west-
ward of the town, where the greywacke and grey wacke-slate alter-
nate with seams of mica-slate, and veins of limestone of a reddish
colour, arising from the oxide of iron. Within the village of
Buckie, there is a part of the old red sandstone formation seen re-
posing on clay-slate and mica-slate, which is again reposing on
greywacke. This micaceous clay-slate is of a greyish colour, and
covers a great part of the interior of the parish. Towards the
south, it crops out at different points, and is quarried for roofing
slates by the Duke of Richmond at Tarriemount and Upper Al-
dyleth, and by Sir James Gordon, Bart, on his estate of Letter-
fourie. Limestone is found and wrought at Nether Buckie. At
Tarwathie the red sandstone already mentioned is quarried, and
used in building. Indeed this is the only quarry of the kind found
in the whole county. A very pure quartzy rock is found in the
Benhill, the same as at the hill of Durn, near Portsoy. None,
however, of the beautifully variegated serpentine, alternating with
beds of marble, talcaceous schist, and hornblende rock, as found
at Portsoy, occurs here. Boulders or detached masses of granite
and gneiss, intermixed with mica, having their surfaces and sharp
edges smoothed down and rounded, evidently by the long-conti«
nued friction of water, or action of the air, are of frequent occur-
rence along the sea-shore, and the Bauds moor. These boulders
are sometimes found at the distance of many hundred miles from
the recks from which they have been originally detached, as is the
case here, no granite appearing within the parish. These trans-
portations point out the agency of currents and immense irrup-
tions, of the ocean passing over the land iu particular directions,
and with such impetus as to carry along these large and ponde-
rous bodies. From the position of these masses, the direction of
such currents can often be ascertained with great certainty. An-
other most remarkable feature of this part of the country is, that
the upper or vegetable soil is so densely mixed with water-worn
stones, that, in many places, under a rotation of excellent crop*
ping, these stones appear to form nearly a third part of the sur-
face. They are chiefly of quartz, although intermixed with no-
dules of lime, felspar, and mica. The feli^par, as being in com-
bination with potass, is easily affected by the action of the atmo-
sphere, and a considerable portion of it annually dissolved, which
RATHVEN. 249
forms a very productiTe soil. The nodules or lime produce the
same effect.
Zoology. — The ordinary indigenous wild animals found in this
parish are, the fox, the polecat, the weasel, the ermine or stoat,
the black-rat, now nearly extirpated in many parts of Scotland by
the brown or Norway rat, common ; the water-rat, the short-tailed
iield-mouse, the common shrew, and the mole. The roe-deer is
found wild in Lord SeaBeld's woods, near the manse; and the fallow-
deer, the hare, the rabbit. The hedgehog, though rare in this
county, was found last summer both on the farm of Rannes and
in the woods at Letterfourie. The otter breeds every season
among the rocks at Findochtie, and in the bogs of Rannes. Along
the shore, the porpoise, the grampus, the spermaceti whale, and
the seal, are frequently seen. The latter is very destructive to the
stake-nets during the salmon-fishing season.
Birds. — The osprey, or sea-eagle, is occasionally seen. The
kite, commonly called the glead, is known to build on the lofty
trees at Rannes and Cullen House. The kestrel, the goshawk,
the merlin, and the sparrow-hawk, with the hen-harrier, not com-
mon. The long-eared owl, the barn-owl, and the screech-owl
are common. The great ash-coloured butcher-bird, though rare,
has been seen in the woods of Letterfourie. The raven, the hooded-
crow is very abundant, and destructive to the eggs of the partridge
and pheasant ; common crow, jack-daw, and carrion-crow.
The starling, the thrush or mavis, the blackbird, the missel-
thrush, and the fieldfare, with its companion, the red-wing, OC"-
cur here in large flocks on the approach of winter. Among the
strong-billed smaller birds, we have the yellow bunting, the snow-
bunting, the common bunting, and the black- headed bunting. The
bullfinch, greenfinch, chaffinch, goldfinch, brown-linnet, mountain-
linnet or twite, and house-sparrow are common.
Among the soft, or subulated billed birds, we may enumerate
the red -breast, red-start, sedge-sparrow, white-throat, pied- wag-
tail, yellow-wagtail, seen on the banks of small burns ; whin-chat,
stone-chat, and sky-lark, the common wren, golden crested-wren,
willow-wren, common creeper, and the hedge-sparrow. The
great titmouse, blue titmouse, cole-titmouse, and long-tailed tit-
mouse, though rare, have been seen in the manse garden.
The summer birds of passage are, the house swallow, martin,
swift, generally visible from the 1st to the 12th of May; stone-
curlew, landrail, cuckoo, and goat-sucker or night-jar, occasionally
250 BANFFSHIRE.
seen at nightfall, flying with great rapidity round the manse and
garden.
Birds of Game* — The common grouse, partridge, pheasant,
much on the increase, as also the wood-pigeon. The rock-pigeon
is found in considerable numbers among the high rocks between
the villages of Findochtie and Portnockie.
GrallcB. — The heron, water-hen, woodcock, common snipe»
jack-snipe, lapwing, golden-plover, ringed-plover, grey plover,
sanderling^ and the oyster catcher.
Aquatic Birds* — Cormorant, scart or shag, kittywake, common
gull, black-backed gull, and the herring-gull. The eider-duck,
velvet-duck, teal-duck, common wild-duck, and coot; The red-
breasted-merganser, razor-billed-auk, puffin, little grebe, and
northern diver, in severe winters.
Fishes. — In the burns of Tynet, GoUaehie, and Buckie, salmon
is sometimes taken, but only when there is a high flood. A con-
siderable number, however, is taken in the stake-nets at Porteasy
and Portgordon, on their passage to the mouth of the Spey.
The common trout and the eel are the only other species found
in these burns.
Along the coast, the following are taken ; *viz. gowdie, haddock,
cod, whiting, coal-fish, (the fry called podleys, colmeys, and sethes,)
ling, tusk, halibut, erroneously called turbot; plaice, flounder,
sole, sea-perch, and mackerel. The herring, most abundant in
this parish some years ago ; pilchard, and sprat or garvie ; stur-
geon, taken lately in a stake-net at Portgordon ; skate or flaire ;
thornback, distinguished by a row of strong spines running along
the back ; sea-dog, accompanying the shoals of herrings, and used
as manure ; wolf-fish, sword-fish, and lump-fish, or lump-sucker,
with the John Doree, taken occasionally.
The lobster, and crab or parten, are abundant; and, about
forty-six years ago^ the fishers on the coast entered into a contract
for five years, with a London company, to fish for lobsters. The
Company furnished the skiff's and tackling, and were reimbursed
by instalments. They took all their lobsters at 2^. a-piece, pro*
vided they measured six inches from the point of the nose to the
end of the boss ; and, when under that size, two were esteemed
equivalent to one. The success of the white and herring-fisheries,
and the amazing quantities of lobsters caught on the coast of Caith-
ness, which the company purchased at a considerably lower price,
put an end to this branch of industry.
RATHVEN. 251
•
The oyster and mussel are not found on this coast. The lat-
ter, however, is brought from the Friths of Cromarty and Dor-
nock, lodged among the rocks here, and used as required for bait
by the Bshermen.
Botany. — In this parish, no particularly rare plants have been
found. The peach-leaved bell*flower, and giant bell-flower, are
seen in great beauty in the woods around CuUen House. The
hemlock, foxglove, agrimony, brooklime, spotted dead nettle, sea
tree-mallow, common mallow, hoary plantain, and lesser spear-
wort, Dccur in the parish.
Along the shore there are, sea-spurry, sandwort, common sea
milk-wort, scurvy-grass, and squill.
In the pleasure-grounds of CuUen House, which mostly lie in
this parish, there is a great deal of very valuable wood, consisting
of oak, ash, elm, beech, larch, and Scotch fir. Some of the
beeches, in point of height and dimensions, may vie with the finest
in Scotland. The grounds are extensive, and possess much na-
tural beauty, and are intersected with many lovely walks, and kept
in the highest order. The utmost attention has been paid by Sir
James Gordon, and Mr Gordon of Cairnfield, in pruning and
thinning their plantations ; and they have now the pleasing satis-
faction of seeing their respective properties highly ornamented
and improved, by a great variety of thriving forest tr^es. The
grounds around their mansions are laid out with great taste, and
neatly kept.
IL — Civil History.
Eminent Men. — The only man of learning and genius, as far
as can be discovered, a native of this parish, was the celebrat-
ed Dr Alexander Geddes. He was born at Pathheads, in
the year 1737, and was descended from parents who had no
claims or pretensions to worldly opulence or honours. His fa-
ther, named also Alexander, the second of four brothers, was
a small crofter on the Arradoul estate. The maiden name
of his mother was Janet Mitchell ; she was a native of Nether
Dalachy, in the parish of Bellie. In their religious tenets, both
were Roman Catholics ; consequently, young Geddes was of the
same persuasion. He was taught to read in the humble mansion
of a schoolmistress, whose name was Sellar, and whose goodness
of heart he was occasionally accustomed to make mention of to
the latest period of his existence. Having exhausted all the
252 BANKFSHIBE.
store of knowledge which Mrs Sellar could impart, Geddes was
next placed under the care of a student from Aberdeen, whose
name was Shearer, and whom the Laird of Arradoul had engaged
to educate his two sons. In the family of this gentleman, his in-
structions were gratuitous. How long he remained at Arradoul
is uncertain ; but, upon leaving the laird's hospitable mausion, he
was, at the iige of fourteen, removed to Scalan, a free Roman Ca-
tholic seminary in the Highlands, limited to boys destined for
that church, whose studies are to be completed in some foreign
university. The vale in which this seminary was situated was po
deeply excavated and overhung by surrounding hills, as almost to
require the perpetual use of the lamp.*
Having attained the age of twenty-one, he was removed from
Scalan, in October 1758, to the Scotch College at Paris, where '
he remained six years ; and, although pressed to take a share in
the public labours of the college, he returned, however, to Scot-
land in 1764. Immediatel) after his arrival, he entered into holy
orders, and was appointed to officiate at Dundee. Here he was
scarcelv settled, when he received an offer to reside with the Earl
of Traquair. This offer he readily accepted, and became an in-
mate of his Lordship's family in May 1765. At this time he
had reached his twenty-eighth year, and had resided in his Lord-
ship's for more than a year, when a female relation of the Earl
openly professed for him an affection which he could not return,
having taken the vow of perpetual celibacy. In a sketch of this
kind, it is not expected that we should trace the learned Doctor
through the whole course of his eventful life. With regard to
the merits of his various literary productions, we think it unneces-
sary to give an opinion, farther than to state that they exhibit
great proofs of talent, perseverance, and profound research ; and
that there are few, if any, who will not allow that he Was an ac-
complished scholar. He died at London, rather suddenly, aftier
suffering excruciating torture from the nature of his disease, on the
26th February 1802, in the sixty fifth year of his age; and, at hia*
own particular desire, his remains were interred in Paddington
* The reader may form some idea of its dark and melancholy aspect« from the fol-
lowing reply Geddes made to one of his fellow.students, who had obtained leave to
▼iiiit his friends, and who asked him if fae bad acy commands be could execute*
** Pray, be so kind,'* reph'ed Geddes, ** as to make particular inquiries after the
health of the sun, and tell him 1 still hope I shall one day be able to renew the ho-
nour of a personal acquaintance with him.**
4
UATHVBN. 253
Church- Yard. The late Catholic Bishop PatersoD of Edinburgh
was also a native of this parish, and the son of poor, but industri-
ous and honest parents.
Land'owners. — The chief land-owners are, the Earl of SeaBeld,
to whom belongs Rannes and Findochtie ; His* Grace the Duke of
Richmond, proprietor of Couffurrach, Leitchieston, and. Burnside ;
Sir James Gordon, Bart of Letterfourie and Nether Buckie ; John
Gordon, Esq. of Cluny, owner of the lands of Freuchnie, part of
Buckie, and Gollachie ; Adam Gordon, Esq. of Cairnfield ; and
the Misses Stuart of Tannachy.
Sir James Gordon, Bart, Adam Gordon of Cairnfield, and the
Misses Stuart are resident John Gordon, Esq. of Cluny, resides
occasionally, during the season, at Buckie Lodge ; and Dr Kyle,
Catholic Bishop of Germanicia, at Presholm.
Parochial Registers. — The earliest records of discipline com-
mence on the 25th December 1698, and have been very regularly
kept till 1736. During that period, however, they really contain
nothing, in any degree, particularly interesting, except the snm-
moniug delinquents before the session, who, upon cQufessing their
guilt, and after severe penance in sackcloth, and many sharp re-
bukes before the congregation, were restored again to communion
with the church. From 1787 till the present time, these reconls
have been regularly kept.
Registration of marriages began at Whitsunday 1716, and that
of baptisms in the same year. Great regularity has been observed
in both from the above date till 1746 ; but, from this time till
1791, and even down to the present day, many Episcopalians and
Roman Catholics do not register their children. No registration
of deaths has ever beeu kept in the parish.
Antiquities. — There are many remains of antiquity in this pa-
rish, particularly of Druidical temples or cairns. The most re-
markable and striking of these is one on the heights of Corriedown,
called the Cove Stanes, A considerable portion of the stones of
^this cairn was employed in building the present mansion-house of
Letterfourie. Mr Gordon, the father of the present proprietor,
examined three of them to the foundation, and found only char-
coal, and a whitish substance resembling the ashes of wood or
bones. He supposed that the low grounds, in the vicinity of his
bouse, had abounded in wood, as large pieces of oak and fir were
dug out of the hollows now under cultivation. There is a large
collection of stones on an eminence in one of Earl Seafield's en-
254 BANFFSHIRE.
closures, near the farm of Woodside, south of the public road,
commonly called the *< Kingfs Cairn/' Tradition has handed
down that it is the grave of Indulph or Indulphus, the 77th King
of Scotland, who, after obtaining a complete victory over the
Danes, was unfortunately killed near this spot It is a well-known
historical fact, that Indulph us's reign was much disturbed by de-
scents of the Danes. There is, however, some dispute regarding
the precise period when this event took place. Abercrombie says
that it was in 961 ; Buchanan in 967. We agree with Aber-
crombie, as Indulphus reigned from 952 to 961, and was succeed-
ed by Duff, who fell by a conspiracy of his subjects in 965. The
above event was distinguished by the name of the Battle of the
Bauds, at that time an extensive moor, now the property of Lord
Seafield.
A great many small cairns are still visible on this moor, between
the village of Findochtie and that part of the Bauds now planted,
supposed to be the burial places of the Danes who fell in the bat^
tie with Indulphus. About seventy-five years ago, a countryman
found, on the^lands of Rannes, in a tumulus or cairn which he was
removing, a stone-coffin, containing human bones of a large size.
*' Having obtained permission," says the late Rev. Mr Donaldson,
*< to ransack this grave, I found it covered with a large stone, 4
feet long, 8 broad, and about 14 inches in depth. On removing
this, we found four other stones set on their edges, which served
as a coffin to part of a skull and jaw-bone, with several teeth, and
some fragments of a thigh-bone. The dimensions of this coffin
were 8 feet 1 inch in length, 2 feet wide, and 1 foot 10 inches
deep.. There was no stone in the bottom. The bones were re-
moved into a similar chest a few feet northward of this one, in the
same tumulus. This last one was discovered, four or five years
ago, by a man in the neighbourhood, who was removing a few more
of the stones for building a house. It is of smaller dimensions than
the other, and was originally covered with two stones, one of which
was off. No bones were found in it There are many other cairns
near this one, but none of them has been searched. They are at
no great distance from the House of Rannes, on a farm lately im-
proved out of moor, called Westerside. The ruins of the House of
Findochtie, of an old chapel, near the farm-house of Farskane, and
of some buildings on the tops of two hills, on the east and west side
of the harbour of Portnockie, the former called the Green Castle,
and the latter the Tronach Castle, are still to be seen ;" but by
3
RATHVEN. 255
whom they were bailt is unknown. On the moor of Rannachy, to
the right, at the distance of 100 paces from the high road, is an
eminence efidently artificial, called Tarrieclerack, supposed to be
a burial-place*
Caves. — The most remarkable of those along the coast, which
are found on the property of Lord Seafield, are, l«f, Farskane's,
80 called from the proprietor having, in 1715, retired into it, along
with two other gentlemen, to avoid trouble during the Earl of
Marr's rebellion. In it they lived comfortably for five or six weeks,
and returned to their own houses, when all apprehension of danger
was past. 2dj Janet Corstair's cave, so named from a mad woman
who took up her residence in it ; and, 3^, The Cross cave, so
denominated from its taking a direction to the east and west, at
some distance from its entrance. The extent of none of these is
known. There is a well of fresh water on the north side of a green
hill, surTounded by the tide, called Priest's Craig-well, betwixt
Findochtie and Portnockie.
Coins. — In 1805, a small square box was turned up by the
plough, on the moor of Arradoul, the property of Mr Gordon of
Cairnfield, containing some coins of Queen Mary, James VI., and
Charles I. Several of them are in the possession of Mr Gordon
and Sir James Gordon, Bart They were in a very good state of
preservation. A silver handle of a sword also was found by Sir
James Gordon's father, on the grounds of Letterfourie ; but the
blade was completely destroyed by rust, so that no idea could be
formed of its antiquity.
Modem Buildings, — The chief of these are, Letterfourie, Cairn-
field, Tannachy, Burnside, Buckie Lodge, the Roman Catholic
chapel, and the Bishop's dwelling-house at Presholm. There are
four corn-mills, besides one for grinding flour and making pot-bar«
ley, and another for carding wool. There is a distillery at Gol-
lachie, but it has not been in operation for a considerable time
past.
III. — Population.
The number of souls in this parish, as returned to Dr Web-
ster in 1755, was 2898. By a minute of visitation in the presby-
tery records, dated at the kirk of Rathven, 29th August 1720,
the population is stated at 1700 catechisable persons, and 600
Papists, by a moderate computation of those above ten years of age,
by Mr Robert Gordon, the minister, in presence of the heritors.
BANFF. ' R
256 BANFFSHIRE.
In ]793» exclusive of that part of the east end of the parish an*
iiexed to Cullen quoad sacra, the date of which annexation cannot
be found out, the population was 30 19, of whom 1408 were malcdy
1411 females ; 1 766 Presbyterians, dOS Episcopalians, 950 Ro*
man Catholics ; and 720 families. At the same date, the annex-
ed part contained 505 persons, of whom 271 were males, 234
females ; 498 Presbyterians^ 2 Episcopalians, and 5 Roman Ca«
thoUcs.
Population in 1801 •
>
aooi
1811,
.
4874
1821,
.
5S64
1831,
m
6484
1841,
-
6826
The jetrly average of birthf for the last aeven yean^ - 126
marriages, - - - 46
deaths, as nesrlj as can be calculated, - 92
The increase of population since. 1821, riz. 1126, is altogether
to be attributed to the encouragement given by Lord Seafield for
the improvement of waste lands, and the flourishing state of the
various fisheries, particularly of the herring-fishery ; which, how-
ever, has been for several years past on the decline, within the
bounds of this parish.
There are two insane persons in the parish, and four fotuous.
There are two blind, and two deaf or dumb. Two only of the six
are supported by the session, one at Li6, 12s. and the other at
L.2, 12s. per annum.
Character of the People. — The fanners, whether Presbyterians,
Episcopalians, or Roman Catholics, are men of plain and unaf-
fected manners ; open and sincere in their intercourse with others ;
friendly and obliging among themselves ; charitable to the poor in
proportion to their means, and not inhospitable to strangers.
Many of them are intelligent men, and by no means deficient in
intellectual, moral, and religious attainments.
The fishermen, as individuals, are nearly placed upon a footing
of equality. Their pursuits are similar ; hence their language and
dealings are almost the same. It is said, *^ that the voice of one
puts all in action, and that the example of one is frequently fol-
lowed by all ; and yet, what is singular, no one seems to possess a
character decisive enough to take the lead, or to rise to superio-
rity by the strength of genius, or the arts of address." There
cannot be the slightest doubt of the truth of this statement; as I
have often marked, on hearing them talking of the success of one
fisherman over another, that they never would attribute this 5U0->
IIATIIVEN. 257
eess either to the siiperbrity of their neighbours' skill in fishing,
or of his nets, lines or hooks, but, like all in similar circumstances
who are of a superstitious turn of mind, and believe in fate, to
what they called **good chance/'
The boys go to sea as soon as they can be of any service to
their fathers; on that account their education is much neglected,
or, at least, much interrupted, so that little progress is made. At
eighteen years of age they become men, and, whenever they ac-
quire the share of a boat, they marry, as it is a maxim with them
*^ that no man can be a fisher, and want a wife.'' They marry,
therefore, at an early age, and the object of their choice is always
a fisherman's daughter, who is generally from eighteen to twenty-
two years of age* These women lead a most laborious life, and
frequently go from ten to twenty^Gve miles into the country,
with a heavy load of fish* They seldom receive money for this
fish, but take ia exchange meal, barley, butter, and cheese. They
assist in all the labour connected with the boats on shore, and
show great dexterity in baiting the hooks and arranging the lines.
When stormy weather prevents the boats from fishing, the men
are employed in mending their lines and nets, or in making
new ones. They are stout, well-formed, of good stature, capable
of undergoing great fatigue, and are the most expert and intrepid
seamen in her Majesty's dominions. The women are, in many
instances, handsome, good looking, and the very picture of health.
Many of the fishermen are sober, industrious, and well-behaved
men, and have laid up considerable savings. Others are thought-
less, and too frequently spend foolishly what they have earned
with so much danger and hardship.
Every thing in their power has been done by the session to pro-
mote temperance at marriages, baptisms, and funerals. Previous to
a marriage taking place, the session exacts a pledge of half a guinea
from the parties that there will be no rioting or fighting. If there
is» the pledge is forfeited to the poor ; if it turns out otherwise, it
is returned on the following Sabbath, provided the elder of the
district certify the same. The fishermen generally are a sober,
hard-working race of men, and those who act with common pru«
dence enjoy all the comforts of life in a reasonable degree. la
proof of this, the industrious and saving have good houses^ mostly
s}ated» and well furnished, consistmg of two or three apartments.
The women, some years ago, went to church bare-headed, but now
they put on white muslin caps, or straw bonnets, with red cloaks or
258 BANFFSHIRE.
tartan scarfs. Both men and women dress well on holidays, and,
with very few exceptions, are seldom absent from public worship.
IV. — Industry.
Agricultwral and Rural Economy, — This parish, as already stat*
ed, contains 27,000 Scotch acres, or 38,750 imperial.
Number cultivated or occasionally in tillage, 8,4^
meadow and pasture, • 497
capable of improvement, • , 560
incapable o\ improvement, . 12.748
Under wooI1 beir of Rathven,— iig ohal*
ders, iz bollis of roeiU for Ettilstoun. Providing always he intist diligentlie in the
ministrie, and als cause his kirk quhar he mnkis not eontinuall residence to be luffi-
ciently serrit, and that be charge the kirk with na farther stipend."
RATHVEN« 265
ID the Tillage of Easter Buckie. It was built in the year 1835,
chiefly by subscription, and cost the sum of L.800. It is free of
debt* The clergyman ivas ordained to this chargn in the month
of July 1837, and has a bond for L.80 per annum as stipend.
This chapel contains 800 hearers. There are no free sittings,
provided they possibly can be let. The highest charge is 3s. 6d.
and the lo\ivest Is. No part of the weekly collections has
hitherto gone to the support of the |>oor. The heritors and
kirk-session are now, however, entitled to the half of these col-
lections, according to the decision given by the Coart of Ses-
sion in the cau^ of the heritors against the managers of the Cha-
pel of Ease in Brechin. The population assigned is upwards of
2000, which comprehends the whole of the village of Buckie, and
a small portion of the landward part lying towards the south.
Number of communicants, 400 ; unlet seats, 300.
The third chapel in connection with the Established Church is
situated at the village of Portnockie. It was finished and opened
for public worship some time ago. It contains 450 sitters. The
whole seats are already let, and the members of Presbytery have
agreed to preach in rotation weekly till such time as a clergyman
be ordained. It is .called Seafield Church, and, when formed into
a parish, will comprehend the part of this parish attached quoad
sacra to Cullen, and a few families residing in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of Portnockie. It was built by subscription, and cost
L.400, of which the Honourable Colonel Grant, now sixth Earl
of Seafield, contributed L.100.
*
There are two Episcopal chapels,— one at Arradoul, and an-
other in Buckie. The one at Arradoul was built about fifty-four
years ago, and contains 211 sittings, of which 139 are let at 3s. 6d«
each. The other, in Buckie, was purchased about a year ago
from the Methodists, and contains 200 sittings.
There are two Roman Catholic chapels in this parish, one of
which is situated at Presholm, and the other at Buckie. The one
at Presholm was built in 1788, and contains 800 sitters ; the other,
which was lately fitted up, holds 400. The attendance at each
chapel averages 400. The amount of Catholic population is
1500. The bishop resides at Presholm, and has three priests who
ofiiciate and live with him there, whose incomes depend solely
upon what the bishop may give them. The collections at both
chapels are given to the poor of their own persuasion.
266 BANPFSHIRS.
Diyine senrice at the Established Church is well attended. The
number of all ages belonging to the parish church is 1820. Ave-
rage number of communicants, 700. The amount of extraordinary
collections, during the last five years, for charitable purposes, was
L.20, 10s. lO^d. One of these collections is annually made in
behalf of the Aberdeen Infirmary.
Education. — The number of schools in the parish is fourteen.
Six of these are endowed, and the other eight are supported by
fees.
The master of the parochial school has a salary of L.d2, Is. 6d.,
with the legal accommodation, and an annual sum from the Dick
Bequest of L.2d. The branches of instruction are, reading, writ-
ing, arithmetic, English grammar, geography, Latin, and the ele-
ments of Greek when required. The fees charged for reading
English are 2s. per quarter; for arithmetic and writing, 2s. 6d.;
English grammar and geography, 3s. 6d. ; for Greek or Latin, 5s.
Average number of scholars during the year, 80. He is not ses-
sion-clerk, consequently he has no emoluments from that office-
Amount of school fees, L. 23^ making in whole about Lb 80 an-
nually. The school is ably taught.
The Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge has en-
dowed two schools in this parish, one at Buckie, a most im-
portant station, and the other at the village of Couffuracb,
in the immediate neighbourhood of the Enzie chapel. * The
number of scholars, according to the last report^ was 46. At
Coufiurach, the master has a free dwelling-house and school-
room from His Grace the Duke of Richmond, and L. 1 5 of sa-
lary from the society above-mentioned. He teaches only the
common branches of education. Number of scholars, 31. An
efficient and active teacher is much wanted at this station. There
is another school at Port- Gordon in this district. The Duke of
Richmond pays the teacher a salary of L.15, and allows him a free
house and school-room. This is also an important station, and
the school is most successfully conducted. The number attend-
ing is 90.
* The sohool in Buckie has been withdrawn 'by the Society, on the ground, that
the school- house has been allowed to fiill into decay. This is deeply to be regretted,
because Buckie, from its great population, is one of the most important stations in
the north of Scotland. It is therefore to be hoped, that a commodious house will be
speedily provided by the proprietor, and that a zealous and efficient teacher wiU be
forthwith appointed.
RATH YEN. 26 T
Besides the school endowed by this Society, there is another in
Buckie, kept by a woman, who teaches reading, along with sewing
and knitting, to little girls. She receives a salary of L.4 ; num-
ber of scholars, 80. There is another school, for the same pur-
pose, taught by a female at Findochtie. She receives L.1, Is*
annually from Earl Seafield, and has a free house. Their charges
are a mere trifle per month. In the populous village of Portnoc-
kie, the Noble proprietor, the Earl of Seafield, has built an ex*
cellent school-house, and gives L.10 annually to the teacher, who
is allowed to charge the same fees as at the parish school. It is
numerously attended, and well taught by the present master.
There are also five Sabbath schools in the parish, attended by.
about 300 scholars.
In an extensive parish of this kind, it cannot be very easily as-
certained what number of the young, betwixt six and fifteen years
of age, cannot read or write. There are few, if any, who are not
able to read ; but a considerable number cannot write.
The people, in general, are alive to the benefits of education ;
but many of the poorer classes, particularly the more indigent of
the fishermen, are compelled to take their children from school
as soon as they are able to do any thing for their own support.
There are no parts of the parish so distant from some one of
the schools, as to prevent attendance.
There can scarcely be a doubt, that, in general, a visible change
in the conduct and morals of the people has taken place, since
the facilities of education were increased, though there is still
great room for farther improvement.
Library, — A public library was instituted some years ago in
the village, or kirk-town of Rathven. It contains a considerable
number of valuable works, and is supported by a quarterly con*
tribution.
Char itaiU Institutions, — Bede-House. — The origin of this. in-
stitution is mentioned by Spottiswood in his Account of Religious
Houses in Scotland, and is as follows : ^^ Rothsan, John Bisset
gives to God, and the Church of St Peter's of Rothsan, for sus-
taining seven leprous persons, the patronage of the Kirk of Kyl-
talargy, to pray for the souls of William and Alexander, Kings
of Scotland, and souls of his ancestors and successors, about 1226/'*
* y hillocks surrounding a hollow, in which there seems to be a
spring, as the loch never dries. It is the nightly resort of wild-
geese, early in the spring, which, however, leave it before the
hatching season.
There are several brooks or burns in the parish, and in general
it is well supplied with water. The burn of the Tore, or Nether
mill, (the name of the place at its entrance into the sea,) running
northward, at the bottom of a deep wooded glen, separates the pa-
rish from that of Aberdour, about three or four miles, and is also
the boundary between the counties of Banff and Aberdeen. The
same boundary is then continued by the burn of Logie, which has
its source near the former, and runs in a contrary direction, se-
parating Gamrie from the parish of King Edward for several miles,
till it is joined by the burn of Minnonie on Pitgair. There is
something worth observing in the natural history of this last burn.
The deep ravine, already described, below the old church, rises
with a steep acclivity of ground for nearly a mile, preserving about
the same width and depth, to the highest ground on the farm of
Afforsk. The den then continues a dead level for perhaps one
hundred yards or more, in a peat bog at the bottom, while the sides
are covered with furze, heath, and grass. The water there sepa-
rates, going the one part north, to the sea at Gamrie bay, and the
other commencing a circuitous journey southward. After receiv-
ing contributions from a number of cross rills for about two miles,
till it becomes strong enough to turn a mill at Minnonie, it soon
after joins the burn of Logie, and, going southward and then west-
ward, past the church of King Edward, it joins the Doveran, runs
in it northward, through the parishes of King Edward, Alvah, and
Banff, till it meets again its old mother Gamrie, who, politely ten-
dering her left arm, conducts it to the sea. The whole revoUu
tion from the den of Afforsk cannot be less than sixteen or eighteen
miles, while its twin brother has a short merry race among stones,
rocks, shrubs, and flowers, of less than one mile.
There is a similar division of the water of Troup in the east,
which, rising on the farm of Northfield, runs parallel with the coast,
the one part eastward into the harbour of Cullycan, and the other
westward into the shore of Crovie. A like division also takes
place westward of the old church, when one part runs east, into
the den of Afforsk, and the other west, parallel with the rocks to
the bay of Old Haven. Near its termination, viz. at the mill of
Melrose, there is a steep and beautiful waterfall, that turns two
276 BANFFSHIRE.
water-wheeis, the one above the other, on the different floors of
the same bouse. The one for a nieal*mill, and also a saw mill,
and the other for a flour or barley-mill. Another burn comes into
the sea at Old Haven, with a northerly course. It rises about the
Longman hill, and in its difierent branches, with the help of dams,
is compelled to thrash the corn of several farmers, in its short
course of some two miles. A singular proof of the he^ht of land
in Gamrie is, that not a drop of water comes into it from any
other parish ; the whole rises in itself.
Geology and Mi'neralogy, — For interesting details respecting the
geology of the parish, we refer to the following : Professor Sedg-
wick and Mr Murchison's papers, Qeolog. Soc Trans. 1827-8.
Mr Prestwick's papei^ on part of the Banffshire coast, including
Gamrie, ib. : Poissons Fossils from M. Agassiz. : Prize Essay by
Mr Cunninghame, Highland Soc. Trans. 1840.
An excellent section of the pmrish is presented along the shore
of the Moray Frith from the mouth of the Doveran eastward to the
mouth of the bum of Tore, of Troup, a distance of ten miles. * * *
The section is particularly instructive, as it displays all the rocks
known to occur in the parish, and as nearly as possible in the pro-
portions occupied by them in the horizontal section of the plane.
I'he principal rock in the parish has been generally believed to
belong to the grey wacke group, at least iProfessor Jameson so con-
siders it. Sedgwick and Murchsion give no opinion, while Mr
Prestwick seems rather inclined to refer it to the primary slates.
The rock consists of alternate layers of grey wacke, grey wacke slate,
clay-slate very much broken up and contorted, lying generally at
high angles, often vertical, and frequently traversed by quartz
veins of inconsiderable thickness. The general direction or stroke
of the beds is north by east, the dip is sometimes eastward and
sometimes westward ; various artificial lines present themselves*
The clayslate of one locality, Melrose, was formerly wrought as
a coarse roofing-slate and slabstone. These, however, are now
superseded by the Foudland and Easdale primary slate. The
greywacke is employed as a building stone ; its basis is generally
highly stiicious, and the enclosed fragments are quartz and fels-
spar, with occasional pieces of clay -slate. Scarcely any other im-
bedded minerals occur. No subordinate calcareous layers occur
.within the range. In a single locality, the Longmanhill, one and
a-half miles south-west of the coast, there appears an upshot of
granite, agreeing perfectly in Hthological characters with that of
GAMRIE. 277
Aberdeen. This granite is occasionally worked, but not hitherto
to any great depth ; neither have the workings afforded any in-
formation respecting the changes produced by it upon the strati-
fied rocks through which it breaks. In the eastern paK of the lo-
cal section are found sandstone, conglomerate, and shales of the
old red sandstone. These rest unconformably on the upturned
edges of the slates, but faults and dislocations are so numerous as
render it almost impossible to determine the exact order of succes-
sion of the sandstone and conglomerates.
On the farm of Findon, the Gamrie fish-bed crops out in two
ravines. Prestwick's description of the locality is in the main cor«-
rect. The chief organic remains are contained in calcareous no-
dules. They are principally of fish, belonging to Agassiz's divi-
sion, Ganoids ; and many of the species are described and figured
in his Poissons Fossils, while several species subsequently dis-
covered remain undescribed. Vegetable remains, also undescrib-
ed, have been found, both in the nodules and imbedding.
The Gamrie fossils are, for the most part, identical with those
occurring in the Caithness and Pomona schists, and in the nodules
and limestone found at Cromarty and various parts of Morayshire.
In the upper alluvial layers shells occur, but, so far as has yet
been ascertaiued, similar to those existing on the coast at present.
The soil of that part of the parish which rests on the sandstone
and conglomerate is more fertile than that which rests on the
slates, and the springs indicate a greater amount of calcareous
matter.
Zooloffy. ^-There was lately a goodly show of pheasants in the
Troup plantations ; but they have been greatly thinned of late
years by vermin in the unprotected state of the woods. Active
means are now employed against their enemies, and it is likely
these elegant inhabitants of the woods will soon multiply again.
But what distinguishes the ornithology of this parish from every
other in the county is the annual migration of sea-fowl to it, for
the purpose of hatching and rearing their young. The following
account of these birds, taken from the Magazine of Natural His-
tory, is by a gentleman who carefully visits them, for the purpose
of ascertaining their habits, generally once a year.
" The rocks of Gamrie are annually resorted to by immense
numbers of those birds which are properly denominated sea-fowl,
and it is remarkable that the various tribes of which the general
body is composed, are most punctual with regard to the particular
2t8 BANFFSHIRE.
period at which they res|)ectively and yearly return from the cold
regions of the north, for the important and pleasing purposes of
incubation,
*^ The varieties which appear in greatest numbers are the kit-
tiwake (provincially kittie), the razor-bill auk (provincially couK
ter), the guillemot (provincially queet), and, lastly, the puffin
(provincially Tammy Norrie). To a stranger who visits, for the
first time, the scene of their vernal abode, the spectacle presented
is striking and interesting in no ordinary degree. On various por*
tions of the immense rocks, which rise in sublime magnificence
before him, sit thousands and tens of thousands of the birds to
which we are now directing attention. And it is curious to ob-
serve the regularity with which the different species attach them-
selves to the places most suited to their various wants and capa*
cities. The kittiwakes and guillemots inhabit the firmest and most
precipitous of the rocks, on the ledges of which they form their
nests. These ledges, when viewed from below, appear to the spec-
tator as scarcely presenting an inch breadth of surface, and yet the
birds contrive to form their nests, which, in the case of the kitti-
wake, is done with grass, and to hatch their young in this seem*
ingly impracticable situation ; although it sometimes, indeed, hap«
pens, that, on being suddenly startled, their eggs tumble into the
sea. Although associated together, however, no actual intermix-
ture takes place between the two species, for they have each their
own particular ledges on which they sit, drawn up like regiments of
soldiers in the most imperturbable manner; and, if startled by more
than ordinary alarm from their nests, they nevertheless return af-
ter a single evolution in the air, to the important duties from vfhicki
they had been with difiicuity aroused. The two species are easily
distinguishable. The kittiwake is at once conspicuous by its
snow-white head and breast, its yellowish bill, and its pearly blue
mantle ; while the guillemot is recognized by its upright figure,
the legs being placed veVy far back, as is the case with most sea-
fowl, and by the great portion of brownish sleek black with which
its plumage is diversified. * * On a promontory immediately
adjoining, and composed of softer materials, are assembled the
puffins, or, in the language of this part of the country, the Tammy
Norries, which, laying their eggs in holes burrowed inthe earth,
cannot, of course, take up their abode on the hard ledges occupied
by the birds whose position we have already described. In the
same manner, the razor-bills, although associated with the guille**
GAMRIK. S79
ihots, occupy in general a separate and somewhat soft and perfo-
rated part of these enormous precipices, which, in the busy season
of spring, teem with life in all directions. These birds (the razor-
bills) very much resemble the guillemots in appearance, especially
when seen at a distance on wing. They may, however, on a nearer
approach, be distinguished from the latter by the broad form of
their bills, and by the superior length of their wings, which are,
moreover, marked by a conspicuous streak of white along their
outward extremity. Some of this enormous body of sea-fowl (pro-
bably males) are constantly in motion, either gracefully and lightly
swimming about in detached groups on the sea, or, by their circu-
lar evolutions in the air, indicating to the yet distant visitor the
particular rock where he may hope to encounter them in congre-
gated thousands. And, on a fine day, and under the mild influ-
ence of a vernal and unclouded sun, the scene is particularly
beautiful. The ocean lies tranquil, and stretched out before the
spectator like an immense sheet of glass, smiling in its soft and
azure beauty, while over its surface the kittiwake, the guillemot,
the razor-bill, and the puffin, conspicuous by the brilliant orange
and scarlet of its bill and legs, are beheld wheeling with rapid wing
in endless and varying directions. On firing a gun, the effect is
even startling. The air is immediately darkened with multitudes
which are aroused by the report ; the ear is stunned by the varied
and discordant sounds which arise. The piercing (wailing) note
of the kittiwake, from which its name is derived, the shrill cry of
the Tammy Norrie, and the hoarse burst of the guillemot, resem-
bling, as it were, the laugh of some demon, in mockery of the in-
trusion of man amid these majestic scenes of nature. All these
combined, and mingled occasionally with the harsh scream of the
cormorant, are heard above the roar of the ocean, which breaks at
the foot of these tremendous and gigantic precipices."
Ichthyology. — The river Doveran, which discharges itself into
the sea between this parish and that of Banff, contains salmon,
trout, and the other common varieties of river fishes. The salmon
caught in the river and adjoining bay, and which are cured at
Macduff, and prepared for the London market, are let in lease by
the proprietor, the Earl of Fife, for a rent of about L.2000 per
annum. The river and its tributary streams yield also excellent
^port to the angler, and are much resorted to in that way.
But the sea is the great source of revenue to this parish, in the
way of fishing, regarding both the amount of value derived from
290 BANTFSHrUE.
it, and the number of hands employekl and maintained at the work.
A Tariety of kinds of fish are caught on this coast, such as ling,
cod, haddocks, whiting, turbot, skate, &c., yielding a supply to the
interior, for a considerable number of miles, of wholesome and
comparatively cheap food ; leaving also a large surplus to be
either pickled or dried, and carried to the friths of Forth, Clyde,
and Tay for sale.
Shell-Fish. — The rocky coast about Gamrie abounds in shell-
fish. Those used as an article of food are crabs (provincially
partons) and lobsters. The former are plentifully used in the
neighbourhood, particularly the claws. Tha lobster, however, is
the favourite shell-fish, and besides those used in the neighbour-
ing district, towns, and villages, they have been taken to the Lon-
don market of late years, by smacks, which come round for them
periodically. They are sold at home at 6d. 8d. or Is. each, and
very large ones at Is. 6d.
Botany. — The great variety of soil and situation occurring in
the parish ; the precipitous cliffs on the coast ; and, above all,
the deep ravines cut in the sandstone and conglomerate, and the
kindly soil afforded by the decomposition of the slate, clays, and
conglomerates, — indicate an extensive and peculiar flora ; and, had
the parish possessed a careful resident observer, there cannot be
a doubt that his results would do more than verify these anticipa-
tions.
We have received the following account from a gentleman
(John Sheir, Esq. Professor of Agriculture, Marischal College,
Aberdeen), well acquainted with the botany of the north of Scot-
land, and who has paid frequent visits to this locality during the
last fifteen years : " No satisfactory account of the botany of a
parish can be given, except by a resident observer. I have care-
fully examined the notes I took, and the specimens preserved du-
ring my frequent excursions to your very interesting locality ; and
though the following may not afford you all the information you
require, I trust the principal points have not been overlooked.
1«^, Plants usually found inland, and at a considerable elevation
in mountainous districts, but occurring in Gramrie, on the coast,
and but a few yards above the sea level. § Saxifraga oppositijblia^
\Saxifraga hypnoideSj *Rhodiola rosea. 2d^ Hitherto held peculiar
to the west coast, found abundantly in Orkney and Caithness,
and very rarely in four localities in the east coast, but occurring
abundantly in this parish, along the tops of the cliffs, §Scilla vsrua.
GAMRIE. 281
d, Common in this parisbi but regarded (with what justice let
future observers say), as very rare in Scotland, Rumex aquaticus^
Rumex hydralapathum. 4^A, The following list will be considered
interesting, partly for the planUB rariores it contains, and partly
for the contrast it presents to the other published Scottish lists.
The marks prefixed are those used by the Edinburgh Botanical
Society.
tHippuris ▼utgiris f Rumex Mnguineus, tat /i, § Carex hirta
Veronica montana § Epilobium tetragooum * Aspidium lobatum
S ■■ scutellata T Chrysoplenium alterniro* $ Cistopteris fraf^ilis
?Litbo8penDain maritimuni lium Asplenium murinum
Myosotis collina § Agrimonia eupatoria f Adiantum nigrum
*..,■„,... , ciespitosa ^ Vicia sylyatica § FUix faeroina
1 Primula yeris § Eupatorium cannabinum f Scolopendrium vulgare.
t Sanicula Europea ^ Orchis inascula
** Pamassia palustris f Carex extensa
The heaths, fruits, and forest-trees, are those which are com-
mon in the north of Scotland.
Woods, Plantations, 4'<7.— 'There are some very pretty and luxu-
riant belts of wood in the western extremity of the parish, parti-
cularly that on the river side, connected with the extensive plan-
tations of Duff House, in the adjoining parishes of Alvah, Banff,
and King Edward.
The Earl of Fife has done much to beautify and improve thai
part of the country ; and, among the late improvements, has ex-
tended a fence with hedges on either side of the turnpike, with
occasional clumps of trees, as also neat cottages and lodges, with
tasteful gardens, all the way from Banff and Macduff to the
Church of King-Edward, a distance of five miles. The chief
plantation in the parish, however, is the Tore of Troup, which,
together with the woods of Troup House, measures upwards of
700 imperial acres. The principal wood is beech and Scots fir ;
the former, much admired for the largeness of the trees and wide*
spreading foliage. Larch-fir is now coming more into general
use, as it is of more rapid growth, and is considered more durable
and suitable for husbandry use than the other kinds of fir in this
part of the country. The deepness of the numerous ravines, and
the towering height and steepness of the banks, diverging from
the bottom or principal glen in all shapes, and at all angles, give
the Tore a striking resemblance to a Highland mountain-pass,
and render the scenery altogether exceedingly romantic and
beautiful ; while the proprietors, who have been proverbial for
ages for good taste, have made art assist nature in rendering this
one of the loveliest spots in the far north.'
282 BANFFSHIRE.
IL — Civil History.
Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers extend no far-
ther back than 1704. Since that time minutes of the kirk-ses-
sion's transactions, and of the collections and distributions for the
poor, have been regularly kept. Registers of baptisms are also
preserved since that time ; but in these there are very frequent
omissions, owing to the neglect of parents ; and parties are very
frequently subjected to inconvenience and loss afterwards in con*
sequence of these omissions. A register of marriages has also been
kept and preserved since 1 757 ; but no regular account is kept of
deaths in the parish.
Antiquities qnd Historical Events. — These may be taken toge-
ther, as there is no modern historical event worth mentioning con-
nected with this parish. The greatest object of antiquity is the
Old Church, which universally-received tradition relates as hav-
ing been built at the time of the landing of the Danes in 1004.
The following account of the place and its tradition was furnished
by the writer to the Aberdeen Magazine, 1832, and is believed
by the inhabitants to be substantially correct.
'* It is not alone by the natural beauties of the place that this
scenery becomes a field peculiarly adapted for the fancy to sport
in. These green hillocks, grotesque knolls, rugged rocks, and
deep guUeys — these vales which have rested for centuries in peace,
were once the scene of deadly conflict ; for it was here that our
far-off ancestors had to stem the torrent of invading Danes; and
this brook, now meandering peacefully over the smooth pebbles,
once flowed red with the blood of the slain. That green conical
mound that tops the east bank of the den, is the castle hill of Fin-
don. It was garrisoned with a part of the Scotch army stationed
here to watch the landing of the Danes ; a party of whom efiect-
ed a lodgement on the opposite bank, in the place where the Old
Church now stands. The alarm was immediately given, and com-
municated by means of fires on the mounds, (several of which
mounds yet remain on the highest eminences of this and the neigh-
bouring parishes), which communicated the intelligence rapidly
through the kingdom, and quickly brought up reinforcements.
Still the Scottish chief (the Thane of Buchan) considered the
issue of an attack rather dubious, and, in order to add the enthu-
siasm of religion to that of patriotism among his followers, made a
solemn vow to St John, in presence of the whole army, to build a
church to him on the spot where the invaders were encamped, on
GAMKIE. 28S
condition that the saint would lend his assistance in dislodging
them. The superstitious soldiers, thinking this too good an offer
for any saint to reject, made themselves sure of St John's co-ope*
ration, and entered with alacrity into the plans of their leader ;
who, being now sufficiently reinforced, sent a detachment round
by the head of the den, and these, fetching a compass by the
south-west, succeeded in gaining possession of the top of the hill,
directly over the Danish main camp, and, by rolling down large
stones upon the invaders, obliged them to abandon it, and to make
their escape by the north-east brow of the hill which overhangs
the sea, where many were killed in the flight; whence the place
obtained the name of Ghaemrie, or the running battle. After
being dislodged from the east, the Danes formed u new camp,
(where the entrenchments are still to be seen), which still preserv*
ed their communication with the sea, and also with an extensive
barren plain on the top of the hill. Meantime the whole Scottish
army, in fulfilment of their leader's vow, set to work and built the
church on the spot where the Danes first settled, while both par-*
ties were waiting additional reinforcements. The Danes having
been joined by a party of their countrymen who had landed ,at
Old haven of CuUen, about four miles westward, made a success*
ful attack on the Scots, and drove them back to the castle hill ;
and, in spite to Saint John for assisting their enemies, they pollut-
ed his sanctuary by making it a stable for their horses. By this
time, however, the alarm had spread far and wide, and the Scots,
pouring in from all quarters, not only forced back the Danes to
their old position on the brow of the hill, but, getting possession
of the whole heights, and enclosing them on all sides except that
overhanging the sea, they again commenced their murderous work
of rolling down stones, while the helpless Danes could neither op-
pose nor escape, and then rushing down upon them, sword in
hand, the Scots cut them to pieces to a man. The Bleedy pots
(Bloody pits) is still the name of the place, which, being incap-
able of cultivation from its steepness and exposure to the north
blasts, remains to this day in statu quo. Besides the round,
the crescent, and variously angled figures in the ground, the
graves of the Danes are yet to be seen, sunk and hollow, among
the rank brown heather, green at the bottom, and surrounded at
the borders with harebells and whortleberries, with fragments of
rock and large detached stones lying around, and covered with
moss.
284 BANFFSHIRE.
'^ Three of the sacrilegious chiefs were discovered amongst the
slain, by whose orders the church had been poUuteil ; and I ha?e
seen their skulls, grinning horrid and hollow, in the wall where
they had been fixed, inside the church, directly east of the pulpit,
and where they have remained in their prison- house 800 years !
** After the church became a neglected ruin, about twelve years
ago, these relics of antiquity (skulls) were pilfered bit and bit, by
some of the numerous visitors to the place, (one was subsequent-
ly recovered and placed, for greater security, in the Museum of
Lit. Inst Banff, where it is still to be seen,) and nothing of them
now remains but the holes in the wall in which they were imbed-
ded/'
There is an old ruin in the farm of Pitgair, called Wallace Cas-
tle ; with very thick walls, composed of stone and lime half-vitri-
fied, standing on a knoll, in a very romantic spot : but there is no
history or tradition known connected with it The walls have the
same appearance as those of the old church, namely, that of great
Antiquity.
Land-owners* — The land of the parish of Gamrie is nearly
equally divided between the Earl of, Fife and Francis Garden
Campbell, Esq. of Troup and Glenlyon, the former possessing
the west end of the parish and the latter the east The only ex-
ceptions are two farms, Whitehall and Greenskairs, west of the
old church and den of Afforsk, which, being the only unentailed
property on the estate of Troup, were sold during Mr Garden's
minority some years ago ; Whitehill to Dr Smith in Banff, and
Greenskairs to Mr Al. W. Gardiner, who rents the farm and re-
sides in the mansion-house of Melrose, in the immediate neigh-
bourhood. Part of the Fife estates in the parish are in his Lord-
ship's own possession, and part of them in the hands of trustees,
in terms of a deed left by his uncle, the late James Earl of Fife.
Eminent Persons.^^SeyenA members of the ancient family of
the Gardens of Troup have distinguished themselves in the camp,
the Court, and Judges' hall. One of Mr Garden's predecessors,
Alexander Garden, Esq. of Troup, was unanimously elected Mem-
ber of Parliament for the county of Aberdeen, in the middle of
the last century, during three successive parliaments. He was
succeeded by his brother, Lord Gardenstoun, one of the Lords
of Session, who was distinguished in his time as an eminent law-
yer, a man of letters, and a gentleman of highly cultivated taste
and intellect. Several of the family also have served their coun*
GAMRIB. S85
try with much approbation, both at home and abroad, as officers
in the army. The Barclays de Tolly, one of whom Ggured in the
last war, had their seat in old times at Cullen, in this parish,
and their burial-place within the church, where there still re-
mains a Latin inscription, in old characters, recording their name
and interment.
Modem Buildings. — The mansion-house of Troup, which was
built principally for a sea-view, about seventy years ago, seems at
a distance as having rather a bare appearance, from want of wood
on the south and east sides ; but this appearance gradually wears
off in approaching, and when the approach is made, the situation
is found to have been well chosen, I'he ground rises to such a
distance in front, towards the south, that wood in that quarter,
more or less, would impose a look of conGnement and closeness on
the whole scenery : — while the opening to the east leaves to the
windows in that part of the house, a splendid prospect of the gi-
gantic rocks of Pennon, which, when seen in a mild evening, gild-
ed by the setting sun, and relieved on the one side by the smooth
blue ocean ; and on the other, by the various shades of green, in
the highly cultivated fields, knolls, brakes, and guUeys, presents
a scene of natural grandeur seldom equalled.
In the close vicinity of the house, there are two beautiful ra-
vines, meetingat right angles, and nearly half surrounding it, the one
on the west and the other on the north. The latter, after passing
the house, rises with a gentle acclivity, leaving a fine southern ex-
posure for garden and pleasure-ground. As these glens were
tastefully laid out with walks, and planted some thirty or forty
years ago, they are now smiling in all the beauty which wood and
water, well trained, can give to a place that would be beautiful
without either, from its natural position of banks and braes. As
these woods and vales are little seen in the approach from the east,
the effect to a stranger arriving from that quarter is heightened by
agreeable surprise.
The house itself has been allowed to go into considerable dis-
repair during the long minority of the present landlord, as well as
the sweet Norwegian cottages of the Tore ; but when the improve-
ments on the house, &c. projected by the young and spirited
proprietor, are carried into execution, it will be exceeded as a ba-
ronial residence, by few in the north, and hardly by any in natu-
ral beauty of site.
286
BANFFSHIRE,
III, — Population.
In 1792, the population issuted m above 9000
1801, . 3052
1811. 2858
1821, , , 3716
1831, 4094
1841, . . 4742
Most of the country inhabitants are employed in agriculture,
as farmers, crofters, labourers or farm- servants.
There are five landed proprietors, and thirty tenants paying
L. 50 and upwards of yearly rent. The others, as in the follow-
ing table :
Macduff.
Inhabited bouses, . . 403
Occupied by families, • 484
Houses building in 1831, . 5
Houses uninhabited in 1831 , 13
Families chiefly employed in agri- I ^.
culture, . . I
Do. in trade, manufactures, or } tna
handicraftt . )
All other families, 270
Males, . 805
Females, . .1014
Total of persons, . 1819
Macduff.
Total number of males 20 years of 1 410
age and upwards, • |
2
24
U
13
Gardenstown, Crovie. Country parts.
348
355
6
3
238
67
50
912
905
1817
Country parts.
480
49
72
82
20
62
148
195
343
Gardenstown.
73
28
28
1
2
28
51
64
115
Crovie.
26
127
170
6
20
95
45
26
10
7
10
age
Occupiers of land employing la- )
bourers, • . )
Do. not employing labourers.
Labourers employed in agriculture,
Males employed in manufactures )
or in making machinery, . y
Wholesale merchants, capitalists, 1
bankers, professional and cdu- > II
cated men, . )
Retailers, handicraftsmen, as mas- 7 191
ters and workmen, y
Labourers not agricultural, 134
AH other males, as pensioners, re- ) at-
tired tradesmen, disabled, Sic. )
The number of illegitimate births in the parish, 12 annually, at
an average. There are in the parish 2 insane persons, 4 fatuous,
4 blind.
IV. — Industry.
Agriculture and Rural Economy. — Waste land has been im.
proved of late years to a very considerable extent, and its improve*
inent, in most cases, has yielded ample remuneration for expense
and labour. These improvements, together with the superior
mode of cultivating land now in use, have altogether more than
doubled the produce of the soil in this parish since 1790. There
GAxMRIB. 287
remains yet a large proportion of waste ground that might be
brought under cultivation with advantage.
The extent of the Troup estate, according to a late survey, when
Induced from Scots to imperial acres, is as follows : —
Imp. acres arable Do. pasture Do. wood or Roads, stanotM
or cultivated. or waste. planting. of houses, &c.
Troup estate, . 4665 4655 . 721 184
^hitehill and Greenskalns, 860 . 502 . . 9
Whole, 5025 5157 "t^T "i93
Altogether Troup, Whitehill, and Greenskains, are generally
considered as amounting to half the parish, both as to extent and
value of land ; and the following may be taken as a fair average
calculation of the whole in imperial acres : —
Acres cultivated, . . 10.000
Acres pasture or waste land, . 10,000
Acres in wood, . . 750
Acres in roads, houses, &c. 900
Of the 10,000 acres waste land, about 3000 or 4000 may be
capable of tillage, and would yield a fair remuneration for capital
laid out on it. The remainder, from the mountainous nature of
the ground, want of water on the heights, and other causes, may
be considered irreclaimable.
Rent of Land, —
Valued rent.
Troup, L.2436
Whitehill, 85 2 2
Greenskains, 48 4 6
Earl of Fife, . 1540
Earl of Fife's Trustees, 1380
L.5489 6 8ScoU.
The real rental of Troup is upwards of L. 3000, and the whole
rental of the parish is between L. 6000 and L.7000.
The rent per acre varies according to the locality, and the qua-
lity of the soil. Good land in the neighbourhood of Macduff rents
from L.d to L.1 ; the best farm land in the country part, from
L. 2, 10s., and descends, according to the quality, to about 15s.
The average rent of a farm may be from L.2 to L.1, 15s. accord-
ing to the quality.
Recent Agricultural Improvements. — Ploughing and farm- work
are, in general, carried to a high degree of improvement in this
parish and neighbourhood.
The agricultural improvements which have tended much of late
years to increase the value of the produce of the soil have been
effected by these means : 1. English lime applied to the land as a
BANFF. T
288 BANFFSHIRE.
manure ; 2» bone manure ; 3. draining ; 4* tbe ready conveyance
of grain and cattle to the London market by sea ; and 5. the su-
perior mode of culture, and increased attention to the selection
of grains suited to the soil, and to the breeding and rearing of
cattle.
I have been favoured with the following account from Mr Gar-
diner of Greenskains, of the improvements on his farm, which are
a good specimen of the improvements in the parish generally.
^^ The first of the more recent agricultural improvements I
would take notice of, is bone noanure, which was used by me first
in the year 1829, and I have continued to use it in large quanti-
ties, every successive year, since that time ; raising fine crops of
turnips, and the other crops in the rotation equally good ; the grass
after the bone manure is particularly rich, and I have often observ-^
ed that the cattle eat it in preference to grass, after any other ma-
nure. The advantages to be derived from this manure in this
part of the country are incalculable.
^* The additional turnips raised by it keep a greater number of
cattle during the winter, and they of course increase the quantity,
and improve the quality of the farm-yard's dung, which being laid
upon the farm the following year with a little more bone dusl,
must go on increasing the fertility of the farm to a very conside-
rable extent; and the facility we have here of shipping the cattle
to London, and other great markets generally, causes a good de-
mand for the extra number of cattle kept.
" The next improvement I would take notice of is the wedge-
draining, or, as it is termed, the frequent draining system of Mr
Smith of Deanston. I commenced this operation in 1834, and,
since that time, I have put in about 10,000 ells of these drains^
and have found the advantage of them very great, both from the
increased quantity of corn raised, and also the superior quality of
the grass. This, if properly followed out according to Mr Smith's
plan, I consider the greatest of our modern improvements ; but
the expense is so great, that few tenants on a nineteen yearns lease
would be justified in going on with it to any great extent, without
the proprietor bearing part of the expense. But I am perfectly
satisfied, that there is a very great deal of the arable land in this
parish that could be more than doubled in value by this improve-
ment.
" I would next notice the introduction of the short-homed breed
of cattle. I have had that breed on. my farm since 1835, and find
3
GAMRIE. ?89
them thrive uncommonly well, both the pure breed and the 6rst
cross from the Aberdeenshire. I can bring them, and have done
so, to a greater weight at three years' old, than I used to have the
native breed at four year's old ; their quality for feeding is decid-
edly superior ; but I do not consider they would be a proper stock
for the parish, but on the best farms. I have no hesitation in say-
ing, that for the same quantity of good keep, this will return more
money than any other cattle that can be put upon it. But they
will never do to be sent to pasture on a heather hill.
^ I have kept a flock of about 200 Cheviot sheep for twelve years,
bred from the best stocks in Ross-shire and Sutherland. They were
at firstprincipally kept on natural grass pasture on the sea braes and
boroude, and thrive remarkably welL Within the last few years, I
have crossed them with pure Leicester tups, which has increased their
size, their propensity to fatten, and also the quantity of their wooL
Since using the Leicester tups, I have, in addition to their former
natural pasture, been in the habit of depasturing most of my thin
arable land by them, which I consider a great advantage on the
poor land, first, because a sheep will fatten where an ox would
starve, and second, the manner their dung is scattered over the
land must add more to its fertility, than if the grass were eaten by
cattle. I also allow them in spring a proportion of the turnips on
the worst land, to be consumed on the ground. For the reasons
I have stated above, it is my humble opinion that the poorest of
the arable land in this parish would be more profitable, if stocked
with sheep, than with cattle.''
Duration of Leases^ Crops, .50, and at Gamrie, L.25. The schoolmaster of Gamrie's
other emoluments, as session«clerk, amount to L.12, making his
living altogether about L.90, with a house and small garden, the
rent of which is paid gratuitously by Mr Garden of Troup, as
294 BANPF^ttlKtl.
that of the schoolmaster of Macduff is by the Earl of Fife's Trus«
tees,
One'private school is now taught at Troup ; another at Gardens-
town. A handsome new school is erecting at the Longman village
by the Earl of Fife* and subscribers in the neigfhbourhond. There
are three private or subscription male schools in the parish, besides
several other chance schools, both male and female, in Macduff.
The number of children at the parochial school of Macduff, at
one time, may average about 110; those at Gamrie about 50.
The whole children at school jn Macduff, 800 ; in the other
parts of the parish, above 200. There is a female school in Mac-
duff, with a house and moderate endowment, for the useful and
common branches of female education, such as reading, sewing,
knitting, &c. ; and one at Gardenstown, not endowed. It would
be a great benefit to this part of the country, if the parochial sys-
tem were extended, and made to embrace female as well as male
education.
Sabbath-school teaching has been in full operation in this pa-
rish for some considerable time past. There are about 200 at-
tending the Sabbath school of Macduff, under the superintendence
of the minister and schoolmaster, with six or eight subordinate
teachers, male and female ; and nearly an equal number attend
the different Sabbath- schools in the Gamrie district, under the
superintendance of the parish minister ; but these are in general
more thinly attended in summer than in winter.
lAhraries, — There is a good circulating library in Macduff, es-
tablished and supported chiefly by subscription, and the aid of libe-
ral donations from the Earl of Fife. There is no public library
in the Gamrie district, although attempts have been made to have
one established. The parochial schoolmaster procured the Kil-
dare Street Library for the use of his scholars, which he finds a
great benefit in giving them a taste for useful reading. The mi-
nister has also procured one of the Tract Society's Libraries for
the Sabbath scholars, which is also very well employed and useful.
Savings Bank, — A parish savings bank, on the national system,
was established at Gamrie in 1836, is succeeding remarkably well»
and gives promise of becoming of vast benefit to the labouring
community. The amount of deposits in August 1840 was above
L.1300.
Poof and Parochial Funds. — The poor's funds of this parish are
nearly exhausted. L.200 was left by the minister's uncle, Hugh
OAMRie. 295
Wilson^ Esq. of Jamaica ; and L. 20 by a Mr West, for annuities
to be paid to certain poor individuals specified ; but the sum is not
available for the general poor. The average number of paupers
on the roll is 100, besides about twenty families that receive occa-
sional aid. The distributions for the relief of single families are^
largest, L.7, 16s. ; smallest, ^s. ; average, L. 2, 3s. 6d. Average
amount of contributions for the poor, from church collections,
L.I 00 ; from voluntary assessment of the heritors, L. 100 ; from
alms, legacies, &c., L.50. The heritors assessed themselves last
year to the amount of L.100 to supply present wants; but it is to
be feared a public assessment cannot long be avoided.
Inns. — Low public-houses have been a great nuisance in this
parish and neighbourhood, for a considerable number of years. ^
There are far too many of them yet in the town of Macduff and
the villages.
Fuel — There was peat fuel in the parish, but it is all exhausted.
There is, however, an inexhaustible stock of peat moss, in the hills
of Kinbean and Overbrae, in the parishes of Aberdour and King-
Edward, and from this the farmers drive a considerable portion of
their fuel during summer, at a time when there is little else to do for
their servants and horses. Were it not for this, peats would be much
more expensive fuel in this parish than coals, which are imported
in sufficient abundance during summer to Macduff, Gardenstown,
and occasionally to CuUycan, generally from the Newcastle and
Sunderland mines.
Miscellaneous Observations.
A remarkably good feeling has existed, time out of mind, in this
parish, between landlord and tenant. The Earls of Fife and the
Gardens of Troup have been proverbial for ages as good land-
lords. One consequence of this is, that the land is not rack-rent-
ed, and the cultivators of the soil are in general what is called
well to live ; while the landlord, on the other hand, has seldom
to complain of ill paid rents. It is a rule with both landlords ne-
ver to move a well doing tenant. And many is the instance in
which the farmer can say or sing,
*' The ftrm I now hold on your bonour*R estate
Is the same which my grandfaUier tiUed,** &c.
Another peculiarity among the tenantry, which proceeds, no
doubt, from the same cause, is an endless chain of connec-
tion, running through them by kindred and intermarriages.
With few exceptions, the families of the whole farms on the
29G BANFFSHIRE.
estate of Troup are all related in some way to each other. This
syelem of clanship is carried still fitrther amoog the fishings
population in the villages; the most of whom in Crovie and
Gardenstown are of the name of Watt or Wiseman, so that they
are obliged to have recourse to nicknames for the sake of distinc*
tion. It is a rare thing for them to marry but among themselves,
as the manners and habits, as well as the work of the rural popu-
lation, are quite diflPerent from theirs. The influx of strangers,
however, at the time of the herring-fishing leads both sexes to form
connection with strangers, which will likely in time give more va-
rietv of names.
March 1842.
PARISH OF KIRKMICHAEL .•
PRESBYTERY OF ABERNETHY, SYNOD OF MORAY.
THE REV. ALEXANDER TULLOCH, MINISTER.
I.«— TOPOORAPHY AND NATURAL HlSTORY.
Name. — The parish takes its name from the church, which was
dedicated, previous to the Reformation, to St Michael, and called
after his name, St Michael's Kirk, or Kirkmichael.
Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is upwards of SO miles in
length from north to south along the banks of the Avon, a tribu*
tary branch of the Spey ; and its average breadth is from 3 to 4
miles. Only about eighteen miles of its length is inhabited. The
other twelve or fifteen miles stretch into the Grampian hills, and are
uninhabited. Of this territorial extent, about nine miles of the inha-
bited part, and all the uninhabited portion, lie in the quoad sacra pa-
rish of Tomintoul. The main range of the Grampian mountains
on the south, and branches of that range running from south to
north on the east and west form its boundaries, and encifcle it, ex-
cept on the north, where it joins the parish of Inveravon in a nar-
row neck at the outlet of the Avon.
Mountains. — The whole mountainous range of Glenavon, in-
cluding the north side of Benmacdui and the east side of Cairn-
* Drawn «p by the Kev. Charles Macpherson, Minister of TomintouL
KIRKMICHAKL. 297
^rum, the highest mountaiD in the Grampian chain, lies in the
southern extremity of the parish. The forest of Glenavon
contains from 60>000 to 70,000 imperial acres, and has been
lately set off by the Duke of Richmond, the proprietor, as
a deer-forest. Cairngorum and Benmacdui rise respectively
to the heights of 4060 and 4362 feet above the level of the
sea, and retain the unmelted snow in the ravines on their am-
ple sides generally all the year round. The general appearance
of the parish is mountainous. Its inhabited parts consist of the
narrow valley of the Avon, and the tributary glens of the Conglass
and Kebat on the east, and the Lochy on the west
Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere, as ascer-
tained at Tomintoul by daily observation at 9 a. m., for the year
1839, wa^as follows : The observations were made on Fahrenheifs
thermometer in the shade. Average monthly temperature, Janu-
ary, 25®; February, 27f° ; March, 29§ ; April, 36^*^; May, 42 ;
June, 56^®; July, 66^^°; August, 62g®; September, 491**; Octo-
ber, 41 1®; November, 34 J®; December, 29 J®. Average daily tem-
perature for the year, 434* The coldest day was the 26th Novem-
ber, 8^, and the warmest the 17th June, 79^ An extraordinary
snow storm occurred on the Idth May, and continued to the 16th.
The snow drifted to the depth of many feet. On the 14th, the ther-
mometer stood on an average of the whole day, 6° under the freezing
point. The pressure of the atmosphere was as follows : Average
monthly pressure, January, 28.99 inches ; February, 28.92 in. ;
March, 29. 13 in.; April, 29.6 in.; May, 29.57 in.; June, 29.46 in. ;
July, 29.29 in. ; August, 29.44 in. ; September, 28.88 in. ; Octo-
er, 29.66 in. ; November, 29.2 in. ; December, 29. 13 in. Average
pressure for the year was 29.37 inches. The pressure was least
on the 7th January at 9 a. m., 26.3 inches, and greatest on the
29th October at 9 a. m., 30.7 inches.
Hydrography. — The only river worthy of the name in the parish
is the Avon, or rather this water is a deep rapid stream, clear as
crystal, which, after running a course of about forty miles, and be»
ing increased by many tributary streams, falls into the Spey at
Ballindalloch, in the parish of Inveravon. Salmon is found in the
Avon from the month of June till towards the latter end of the
year.
Lakes. — Lochavon lies in the southern extremity of the parish,
in the bosom of the Grampian mountains. It is estimated at three
miles long and a mile broad. The scenery around it is particu*
298 BANFFSHIRE.
larly wild and magnificent The towering sides of Bein-bord, Betn*>
macdui, Cairngorum, and Bein-bainac, rise all around it, and their
nigged bases skirt its edges, except at the narrow outlet of the Avon^
at its eastern extremity. Its water is quite luminous, and of great
depth, especially along its northern side^ It abounds in trout of
a black colour and slender shape, differing much in appearance
from the trout found in the limpid stream of the Avon, which is*
sues from it. At the west end of the lake is the famous Clach-
dhian or shelter stone. This stone is an immense block of gra-
nite, which seems to have fallen from a projecting rock above it, ris-
ing to the height of several hundred feet, and forming the broad
shoulder of Benmacdui. The stone rests on two other blocks
imbedded in a mass of rubbish, and thus forms a cave sufficient to
contain twelve or fifteen men. Here the visitor to tj{e scenery
of Lochavon takes up his abode for the night, and makes himself as
comfortable as he can, where *^ the Queen of the storm sits," and
at a distiince of fifteen or twenty miles from all human abode.
There are various other small lakes called na-du^lochan or the
black lochies^ a little to the south-east of Lochavon, towards the
forest of Braemar. These also abound in trout, and afford good
sport to the angler. Lochbuilg lies between Inchrory and the
Garron on the Beallach-dearg road. It is upwards of a mile long
and about half that breadth, and abounds also in trout.
Geology. '-^The whole range of the Grampian Hills is compos-
ed of granite rock. There is a bed of sandstone of rather soft and
friable quality, running across the whole breadth of the parish
at Tomintoul ; and farther down, there is a bed of slate-stone,
also running across the parish near the parish church. There is
a slate quarry wrought in this bed close by the banks of the Avon.
It produces excellent gray slates and pavement slabs, not inferior
perhaps to any in Scotland. Limestone abounds in almost every
part of the parish. Ironstone is found in the south-eastern extre«
mity of the parish, in the Hill of the Leacht. About a century
ago, the iron ore from this place was transported sixteen miles
across the country on horseback, and manufactured with charcoal
from the woods of Abernethy by an Iron Company established
there. The ore is considered rich, and is to be found in great
abundance.* Fluor spar is found in the Braes of Avon, and there
* Specimens of it have been analyzed and found to contain 85 per cent, of iron. It
i« also interspersed with rich veins of manganese, of which a considerable quantity
has been dug out, in the course of last summer, by workmen employed by the Duk«
of Richmond. It is proposed to carry on the mining of this valuable mineral, which
4
f
KIBRMICHAEL. 299
is an extensive marl^bank close by the Avon, a little below Inch*
rory, in the southern extremity of the inhabited part of the parish,
but it is not available for agricultural purposes, from the want of
a road to it. If there were any access to this marl-bank, it would
be of great value in the parish.
There is a considerable portion of the arable soil alluvial, t. e.
on the^haughs of the Avon, and its tributary streams ; and the
greatest part of the remainder rests on lime-rock, and consists of
a rich Joam. The soil, on the whole, is productive, and wor-
thy of a better^climate.
Zoology. — The eagle is still found in the forest of Glenavon. It
builds its eyrie in some inaccessible rock, and continues from year
to year to hatch its young in the same spot. One of these noble
birds was killed some years ago, which measured upwards of six
feet from tip to tip of the wings. The following incident, illus-
trative of the habits of birds and beasts of prey, may not be un^
worthy of notice. One of the keepers of the forest being one day
reclining on the side of a hill, observed an eagle hovering about
for its prey, .and 'darting suddenly down, it caught hold of
a polecat, with which it rose up and flew away in the direc-
tion of an immense cliff on the opposite hill. It had not pro-
ceeded far, when he observed it abating its course, and descending
in a spiral direction, until it reached the ground. He was led from
curiosity to proceed towards the spot, which was about a mile dis-
tant from him, and there he found the eagle quite dead, with its
talons transfixed in the cat. The cat was also dead, with its
teeth fixed in the eagle's gullet. Foxes were, some years ago, nu-
merous in the mountain ranges of the parish, and were very de-
structive to the flocks, but it is believed that they are now nearly
extirpated. Otters, weasels, polecats, and rabbits, are found in
the parish. All sorts of game, such as grouse, hares, snipe, and
partridges, abound over the whole parish. Ptarmigan, also, are
numerous on the Grampian hills. Exclusive of the immense forest
of Glenavon, (now being stocked with deer,) the shooting on the
Duke of Richmond's portion of the hills alone lets at about L.300
a-year.
The domestic animals are all of the ordinary kind, but conside-
it is expected will pay well and give employment to a number of work people. Plum-
bago is also found m cousidereble quantity and of good quality in the immediate
neighbourhood.
300 BANFFSHIRE.
rable improvement is now taking place in the breed of cattle,
horses, and sheep.
11. — Civil History.
Emitient Men, — Of military officers connected with the parish,
may be mentioned Major-General William Alexander Gordon, C.
B. of In verlochy, (of the ancient and respectable Gordons of Crough-
ly,) an officer of undaunted courage and intrepidity, who, at the
memorable battle of the Nieve, at the head of the light infantry of
General Hill's division, led the van in crossing the river, dislodged
the enemy on the opposite bank, and turned the fortune of the day
infavourof the British arms. The General still lives to enjoy his well
earned honours and the respect of his countrymen. He had three
brothers officers in the army, one of whom, James Gordon, Esq. of
Revack, in Strathspey, retired from the paymastership of the 92d
Highlanders at the close of the Peninsular war, and now lives be-
loved and respected by his family, and a numerous circle of friends
and acquaintances. — Another family, that of the kte Mr Samuel
Middletonof Inveroury, has been equally eminent in the military de«
partment. One of his sons, Lieutenant- Colonel William Middle-
ton, an accomplished gentleman and officer, has lately retired from
the command of the 42d Highlanders, after an active service of
more than thirty years, principally abroad. Another of them,
Lieutenant-Colonel Charles Middletou,. retired from the command
of a cavaby regiment some years ago, and two more of his sons,
John and Alexander, the one a captain, and the other a quarter-
master, lost their lives in the service of their country. The pro-
motion of this fiimily rested solely on their own individual me-
rit and bravery. — Another family, that of the late Captain Robert
Macgregor of Delavorar, also furnished four meritorious officers
for the King's service. The last of them. Captain Charles Mac-
gregor, a worthy gentleman and magistrate, died at Delavorar some
years ago.
Land^oumers. — The sole land-owners are the Duke of Rich-
mond and the Earl of Seafield. The former owns about nine-
tenths, and the latter about one -tenth of the parish.
Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers have been very
imperfectly kept. There are no original records previous ^o the
beginning of the present century. At that period, there were some
fragments of registers of births and marriages extending as far back
as the year 1725. These were collected and transcribed about the
year 1800, but there are considerable blanks in the manuscript.
KIRKMICHAEL. 301
The earliest entry in the register of births is in the year 1725, and
of marriages, in 1726. There are no records of minotes of disci-
pline previous to the year 1810, and even since that period, these
records have not been regularly kept.
III. — Population.
The population, taken at different times during the last eighty-'
four years, is as under :•— ^
In 1755, according to Dr Webster^s report, . 1288
1792, according to the last Statistical Account, . 1276
181 1 , aa taken under the direction of Pariiament, 1886
1821, Do. Do. . . 1570
1831, Do. Do. . 1741
1889, aa awertained by correct enumeration, 1722
Of the population of 1831, there were 836 males, and 905 fe-
males. During upwards of Bfty years previous to the commence-
ment of the present century, the population appears to have re-
mained nearly stationary. But, during the first thirty years of this
century, it increased between 400 and 500. This increase has
been owing to the introduction of an improved system of husbandry
during that period, and the great kindness of Dukes Alexander
and Geoi^e Gordon to their tenantry, and their desire to continue
them and their families on the estate, and promote their wel-
fare. It may also be mentioned, as conducing to this increase of
the population, that Alexander Duke Gordon gave great encout
ragement to the village of Tomintoul ; in consequence of which
the village increased firom 37 to 143 families duringthe same period.
Since the year 1831, there has been a decrease of 19 on the
population. This decrease is accounted for by the great failure
of the crops during the last four years, and by the village of To-
mintoul having been enlarged beyond the maximum of its resources
for supporting its inhabitants, many of whom are now obliged to
leave it ; and also by a desire, manifested on the part of the pro*
prietors, to enlarge the farms in the parish, with the view of in-
creasing the comfort of those who occupy the soil ; and it is more
than probable, that, from the operation of the two last mentioned
causes, the population will continue to decrease, at least for some
time.
Tbe populatkm in the viUaffe of Tomintoul is • 580
landward part of tbe parish of Tomintoul, . 456
Kirkmiehael, . 734
1192
Total, 1722
The births in the parish for the last seven years are as under :
302
2
BANFFSHlitE.
ProtctUDt birthi ProtesUnt
Roman
•
Yev.
.In quoad sacra pa- births in
Catholic
Tou
rish of Tomintoul. Kirkmichael.
births.
1838;
18 . U .
20
52
1834,
20
4
10
34
1836.
29
8
25
62
1836,
19
8
16
43
1837.
23
5
19
47
ias8,
16
3
18
37
1839,
18
3
15
36
143 . 45 . 123 311
From this table, which has been constructed from the registers,
it appears that the average Protestant births in the quoad gacra
parish of Tomintoul, among a population of 623^ has been, for
each of the last seven years, 20^ ; and in Kirkmichael, among a po-
pulation of 614, 6^ ; and among a Roman Catholic population of
485, 17$. Average annual births in the whole parish, 44^. From
a comparison of the Protestant population allocated to the parish
church, with the number of births, it is evident that not a third of
them is registered.
The number of Protestant marriages for the last seven years in
the quoad sacra parish of Tomintoul' is 14, average yearly 2; at
Kirkmichael, 32, average yearly, 4$ ; Roman Catholics, ]6, ave-
rage yearly, 2f •* Average yearly in the parish, df • There is no
register of deaths kept
The number of persons under 15 years of age, is 664
betwixt 15 and SO, . 375
30 and 50, . 371
50 and 70, 219
upwards of 70, . 93
Total, 1722
There are 20 individuals above eighty years of age, 3 are above
ninety, and there is a married couple, each of whom is above
eighty^seven years, and who have lived happily together in the
bands of wedlock upwards of sixty years.
There are two proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50
and upwards.
In the quoad sacra parish of Tomintoul, in a population of 988^
there are 10 widowers and 41 widows. There are 13 bachelors
and 4 widowers above fifty years of age, and 50 unmarried women
and 37 widows above forty-five years of age. There are 225 fa-
milies; of these, 123 have married couples at their head. The
other 123 are superintended by widowers, widows, bachelors, and
* It appears thai this number of marriages registered at Kirkmichael includes ae-
veral of the marriagCB registered at Tomintoul, both Protestant and Uomau Catholic.
KIRKMICHAKL. 303
spinsters. There areSlS under twelve years of age, and 187 un-
der seven years. There are 167 who usually employ themselves
as servants, — being 120 more than the number of individuals in
that capacity which the parish requires.
The number of illegitimate births for the last twelve years is
somewhat under an average of 3 each year.
There are 362 families in the parish. The average number of
individuals in each family is 5| in the landward part of the parish,
and 8f in the village. There are two fatuous persons, and two
dumb.
The language generally spoken is the Gaelic, but it has de-
creased very considerably within the last forty years. There is
not an individual between twelve and forty years of age who can-
not speak English. They all read English, and there are many
of the rising generation who cannot speak Gaelic.
The people have improved much of late years in the habits of in-
dustry and cleanliness. Amidst many difficulties and privations,
they enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and necessaries of
life, and are a contented and happy people, enthusiastically at-
tached to their kindred and country, of unshaken loyalty, and
firmly adhering to the civil and religious institutions of the land*
Upon the whole, the inhabitants of this parish may be said to
be an intellectual, moral, and religious people.
Poaching in game and salmon, though much on the decrease, is
not wholly exterminated. Private distillation, and smuggling in
ardent spirits, which not many years ago prevailed universally,
and which tended much to the demoralization of the people, are
now wholly unknown.
IV. — Industry.
The number of acres, standard imperial measure, which is culti-
vated within the parish, is about 2400. The number of acres
which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly
waste or in pasture, is uncertain, but of great extent ; it b esti-
mated in the last Statistical Account at 80,000, exclusive of the
forest of Glenavon, which is not less than 60,000, say 140,000 in
whole.
There is not an acre of planted wood in the parish i but the
greater part of the valley of the Avon is interspersed with natural
growing birch and alder, which adds much to the beauty of the
scenery ; but the wood is of little value, as no care is bestowed upon
the management of it. The average rent of arable land per im-
BANVr. u
.104 BANFFSHIHt:,
perial acre, is about L. 1, 3$. ; but some extent of pasture land i^
allotted to each farm rent free, and several districts in the parish
have a privilege of pasturing sheep and ciittle in common over the
hills and moors.
Wages. — The rate of wages for farm'servants in the year is
from L.9 to L.12 for ploughmen, and from L.3 to L.4, 10s. for
vi^omen- servants, with victuals.
. Live-stoek. — The black- faced sheep are the common breed in
the parish, and of cattle the west Highland is preferred. That at^*
tention to their improvement which would be desirable, has been
for a long time neglected, but of late years, from the encourage-
ment given by the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland,
by the distribution of their premiums, more attention is now given
to the improvement of the breeds. Some tenants of capital and
enterprise have brought into the parish animals of a superior kind,
and it is to be expected that the improvement in this important
branch of agriculture will still advance.
The total number of cattle in the parish of Tomintoul is 801 ;
of sheep, 6536 ; of goats, 410 ; and of horses, 1 88.
The general mode of husbandry pursued is the six shift rota-
tion, viz. green crop, barley or bear sown with grass, two grass
crops, and two corn crops. This system was introduced about
thirty years ago, and has tended much to increase the quantity of
grain raised, and the number of cattle reared. The Duke of Rich-
mond now restricts his principal tenants ta a five shift rotation of
cropping.
Leases^ 8fc. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years»
These, with few exceptions, expire in 1842. Considerable im-
provement has been made within the last twenty years, in the
building of dwelling-houses and farm-steadings. The buildings
on the farms of Inverlochy, Croughly, Ruthven, and Delavorar,
are very substantial and commodious. The tenants on these
farms, and generally in the parish, have of late years improved
and enlarged their farms by draining, enclosing, and cultivating
waste ground; and by the encouragement now offered by the-
Duke of Richmond, the proprietor of the principal part of the pa*
rish, there is no doubt but with the commencement of new leases
this improvement will proceed still more rapidly.
Raw Produce.-^
The average product of grain of all kinds, whether cultivate for the food
of man or the domestic animals, may be estimated at L.9500
or potatoes and turnips cultivated in the fields, at 1200
01 hoy, . . 306
KIRKMICHARL. ,305
V. — Parochial EcoNOMir.
Village. — Tomintoul is the only village in the parish. It is
situated about five miles south of the parish church. It was com-
menced in the year 1750, and now contains a population of 580.
It has five markets held annually in it. There is no system of po-
lice established. The villagers subsist chiefly on the produce of
their tenements and the small lots of land which they rent from
the heritor* The average quantity of land attached to each tene-
ment is about two acres. There are 120 tenements, and 143 fa-
milies, 56 of the families occupy all the land* The tenure is
a 114 years' lease of the tenement, consisting of 36 falls. The
lease commenced in 1825. There is no branch of trade or ma-
nufacture established in the village, and the lots of land are too
.small for the comfortable maintenance of those who occupy them.
There are 87 families depending on handicraft, trade, or on their
industry as common labourers, or on charity for their maintenauce.
The site of the village was a bleak and barren moor previous to
its erection in 1750, and still from its exposed situation, and hav-
ing no wood near it, it presents a bleak and barren aspect. It is
the highest in elevation above the sea, and probably the farthest
distant from the sea of any village in Scotland of the same extent
and population.*
Means of Communication — The parish presents the greatest fa-
cilities and inducements for being made one of th» most public
thoroughfares of any Highland parish in Scotland, yet it is curi-
ous, if not extraordinary, fact, that it is shut out from all commu-
nication with the surrounding countries, and remains at this mo-
ment nearly as unapproachable as it was a hundred years ago.
Whilst the improvements of late years have brought turnpike roads
* Tomintoul, or torn'On-Vtabhailt signifies the barn hilloek. There was a small
•farm near where the site of the village now is, having the barn on a gentle eminence,
at a little distance from the dwelling-house. Thb eminence or hillock took its name
from the circumstance of having the bam placed on it, and hence the name of the
village. Previous to the erection of the village, and many years thereafter, this lit-
tle farm and all the ground now occupied by the village and attached to it, did not
produce L.3n of yearly rent to the proprietor. It now produces nearly 1^.300. Mora
than three-fourths of the land has been improved by the villagers within the last
forty years, from barren moor and bog, with a wet, gravelly, impervious subsoil.
The rent now charged for this ground is about L. 1 per acre, which seenris altogether
out of proportion to its quality and produce, from minute calculation of the pro-
duce of the crop of 1838, in the whole village, it was ascertained that the land rent
for every boll of meal produced was L.4, 1& 2d., and taking the three crops and
rents of 1836, 1837, and 1838 logther, the land rent paid per boll of produce, was
L.2, 5s. 2d. ; but these years, together with 1839 and 1840, formetl a series of unpie-
cedentedly bad years^-the crop of each of them in succcsssion being nearly all dcstro;yT
ed by frost in the month of August.
06 BANFFSHIRE.
within some miles of it on the north and east, none of them hare
yet reached its boundaries, and on the south and west there is not
a turnpike within thirty miles of it. There is a daily post to To-
mintoul, and several small carriers go weekly, or as occasion re^
quires, to Elgin and Forres. The supply of merchant goods is
brought chiefly from Aberdeen. The long-projected south and
north line of road from the shores of the Moray Frith to Perth,
lies through the parish. This line of road, if opened, would
create a transit of all marketable commodities, both to the north
and south, and bring £lgin and Perth about 6fty miles nearer each
other. An east and west line from Aberdeen to Inverness also
lies through the parish. This line if opened, would cross the for-
mer in the village of Tomintoul, and be fully as short as the pre-
sent line by Keith and Huntly. There are only twenty-one miles
of it to open from Grantown to Strathdou, through this parish.
The opening of these two great lines of road would promote the
means of communication in every direction, and conduce greatly
to the improvement and prosperity of the parish. The present
mail route between Tomintoul and Perth (by Dundee and Aber-
deen), is 167 miles, whereas by the proposed line by Braemar it
is only 67. This line was surveyed in the year 1810 by direction
of the Commissioners for making Highland roads and bridges. It
was again surveyed in the year 1832, bj direction of the Lord
Lieutenant of Morayshire, and other noblemen and gentlemen in->
terested«; and again in 1839 by direction of tlie trustees of the
Blairgowrieand bridge of Cally turnpike road. The total estimated
expense of completing the whole line from Elgin to Perth is vari*
ously stated in these surveys at about L. 18^000 to L. 23,100. It
is calcutated that the free revenue to be derived from' tolls would
yield 5 per cent interest for upwards of L. 13,000 of this sum, and
that about L. 10,000 will have to be subscribed by the heritors and
others more immediately benefited by the undertaking. It is much
to be regretted that after so many repeated attempts, during up-
wards of thirty years, this comparatively small sum could not be
raised for the accomplishment of such a great national improvement
The only portion of the line at present impassable by wheeled
carriages lies between Tomintoul and Castletown of Braemar, a dis-
tance of twenty-one miles, and the highest estimate for opening
this portion, including the expense of a bridge over the Dee, is
only L. 8200. It is, however, still to be hoped thai the public
KIRKMICHABL. 307
Spirit of the heritors on this principal portion of the line^ aided bj
Government and all others concenied, will surmount every obsta*
cle, and speedily .open up this great and important line of com-
munication between the north and the south of Scotland.
Ecclesiastical State, — The church was built in the year 1807.
It contains sufficient room for 350 persons. It is situated about
four mites from the northern extremity of the parish, and fourteen
from the southern. Since the erection of Tomintoul into a pa«
rish quoad sacra, its situation, (as regards the congregation now
attending it,) is the most convenient that could be chosen. It is
a plain building, in tolerable repair. It has no gallery, but is of
sufficient size for the congregation allocated to it. The sittings
are all free. The glebe is about nine acres. The stipend is 15
chalders, at the Bars prices of the county of Banff, one-half in
oatmeal, and the other half in barley, with L.8, 6s. 8d. for com-
munion elements. The manse and offices were rebuilt on a new
site on the glebe in 1825, and are in good repair. The manse
is an elegant and commodious dwelling, situated on the top of
a romantic knoll, 200 or 300 feet above the level of the Avon,
and commanding an extensive view of the picturesque valley
of the Avon to the south, with the summits of the Grampian
Hills in the distance. The good taste and liberality of the
Rev. Mr Tulloch, the present incumbent, have done much in
adding to the elegance of the manse, by his improvements in
planting and inclosing around it, and in opening up approaches
to it.
There is a Government church and manse in the village of
Tomintoul. It was built by Government in 182G, at an expense
of L.750 for the church, and L.73d for the manse. It is situated
five miles from the parish church. The district allocated to it
was erected into a parish quoad sacm by the General Assembly
of 1833. The stipend is L.120, including communion elements,
and is paid by Government There is a glebe of half an acre,
with another half acre and two roods for a garden and site of the
church, manse, and the church-yard. The church affords accom-
modation for 336 sitters, and is built to admit of a gallery to con-
tain about 200 more. Two-thirds of the area are let at from 6d.
to 9d. each sitting, annually ; the proceeds to be applied in keep-
ing the church and manse in repair ; but the collection of the
seat rents has been discontinued for some years. The other third
308 BANFf^iiHlRE:«
part is allotted as free sittings. The manse is a neat cottage of
one storey, consisting of seven apartments.
There is a Roman Catholic chapel also in the village. It is 8
very substantial and capacious building, and includes the priest's
dwelling-house, which consists of eleven apartments. It was
built in 1838, and is sufficient to accommodate 464 persons on
the ground area, besides space for galleries to accommodate 300
more. The sittings at present 6tted np are for 368 individuals^
The expenses of the building were defrayed by private subscrip-
tions over the three kingdoms. These are stated as exceeding
L.1200 ; but the exact amount, or how much has been expended
on the building, is not known. The bishop resides at Presshome,
in the Enzie, near Fochabers. The priest is paid by the seat-
rents of the chapel, which are let at from 2s. to 4s. each sitting.
He has also the interest of L.400, bequeathed by a native of this
parish to the priest at Tomintoul, besides the annual allowance
of about L.9 from the fund for the maintenance of the Roman
Catholic clergy. The number of families attending the parish
church is 115, and the individuals, 614. The number attending
the church at Tomintoul is 148 families, and 623 individuals.
Total attending both the Established churches, 263 families, and
1237 individuals. The number attending the Roman Catholic
chapel is 99 families, and 485 individuals ; and as the chapel is
sufficient to accommodate 764 persons, it appears that the muni*
ficenceof the supporters of Popery has, as in this instance, furnished
accommodation for 279 individuals more than the whole congre-
gation, young and old, attending it consists of. Divine service at
the Established Church is generally well attended. A great im-
provement has taken place in this respect of late years, although
there are a few nominal adherents of the Church of Scotland,
who still retain the pernicimis habit of going to church only oc-
casionally, or not at all.
The average number of communicants in the church at To-
mintoul is 150, and in the parish church, 143; total, 293^
There are occasional collections and subscriptions raised for the
General Assembly's schemes for religious purposes, for the Bible
Society, and for the infirmary at Aberdeen. These collections
and subscriptions amount annually to about L. 10.
Education. — There are three permanent schools in the parish,
1. the parish school, near the parish church. It is attended by
KIRKMICHA^L. B09
ftboiit 20 scholars annually. The teacher has the maximum ^ala^-
ry of L.34, 4s. 4id., besides being eligible for a share of Mr
Dick's bequest of from L.20 to L.30 a year. The school-fees
average about L.8 a year. By the liberality of the heritors, the
teacher has a dwelling-house of six apartments, and a commodi-
ous school-room sufficient to contain about 100 scholars. The
school- room was built in 1836, and both school -room and dwel-
ling-house are in good repair. The teacher has a garden and
croft of land sufficient to keep a cow. He has L. 1 a year of fee
as session-clerk, besides the usual perquisites of office, which do
not amount to more than L.2. 2. There is a school in the vil-
lage of TomintouK The school is at present on no established
footing. The teacher receives L.17, 3s. 3d. a year as a gratuity
from His Grace the Duke of Richmond. The parochial school was
situated in Tomintoul until the year 1835, and the teacher still
enjoys the accommodations. The school is attended by upwards of
100 scholars annually. The school-fees average about L. 14 a year.
There are measures now in progress for erecting this school into
a parochial school, under the Act I. Victoria, c 87. The heri-
tors have liberally undertaken to enlarge the accommodations, so
as to entitle the teacher to the maximum salary ; and it is expect-
ed that he will be also eligible for a share of Mr Dick's bequest. An
active and efficient teacher will thus be suitably encouraged. Be-
sides the ordinary branches of English reading, writing, arithme-
tic, and English grammar, such scholars as may require it are
taught Latin, mathematics, and geography at both these schools.
The school-fees charged from those who can pay, are 2s. a quar-
ter for reading, with 6d. additional for writing, and Is. additional
for arithmetic and English grammar. Five shillings a quarter are
charged for the higher branches; but a considerable proportion of
the scholars are unable to pay any fees. The greater number of
them attend only about a quarter in the year — many of them for
a shorter period. 3. There is another school in the village, en-
dowed by the Trustees of the late Mr Donaldson of Aberdeenshire.
The salary is L.26. The school is attended by upwards of 100
scholars annually. No fees are charged ; and only the elementary
branches of education are taught.
Besides these, there are commonly two or three schools on the
teachers' own adventure in remote corners of the parish. These
are taught only during the winter season. One of these schools,
310 BAMPP8HIRB.
in the Braes of Avon, is usually attended by from 40 to 50 child*
reo. This portion of the parish is from seven to thirteen miles
distant from the parish school and from two to eight miles from
the schools of Tomintoul. The population of the Braes of Atod
is 280 souls. Of these 70 are under twelve years of age. An ad-
ditional school is much required in this station.*
Library, — There is a small circulating library belonging to the
quoad sacra parish of Tomintoul. It consists at present of 160
volumes, chiefly religious and historical.
Friendly 5oci>^t>5.— -Various attempts were made some years
ago to establish friendly societies in the parish and neighbourhood*
but, being based on erroneous principles and under improper ma-
nagement, none of them succeeded.
There is no Savings bank in the parish, nor within twenty miles
of it ; and it is not known that any of the population invest any of
their earnings in any of these institutions at a distance. It is be-
lieved that a Savings bank instituted in the parish, would be pro-
ductive of great advantage, by inducing the labouring population
to save their earnings, and make some provision for sickness and
old age.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons
receiving parochial aid is about 80. They receive from 5s. to L. 2
each annually. These allowances are very inadequate to the main-
tenance of the poor, and much mora depends on the private bene-
volence of the community than on the poor's funds for maintaining
them. Such of them as are able, assist in supporting themselves
by any industry of which ihey are capable. Others obtain supply
by going from house to house, whilst those who are disabledby
sickness or old age from doing any thing, are supported by the
alms-givings of the neighbours sent into their houses.
The following natives of the parish may be here mentioned :
Miss Isabella Macpherson of Tomachlaggan, who, by her talents
and industry, acquired a respectable rank and fortune in Edinburgh,
and after making provision for all her relations, bequeathed L.350
to the poor of the parish, which laid the foundation of the hand-
some permanent funds now belonging to the poor. Mr Eneas Ca-
* These facts refer to the state of the Brses of Avon previous to the yeur 1839.
Since then, more than half the population has been removed by the new system of
enlarging the farmsi and many more will soon be removed from the same cause.
This removal of the population removes also the necessity of any additional school
in this district of the parish.
KIRRMICHAEL. 811
iheroD of Balliolish, a partner of the North- West Company in Ame«
rica, left considerable property to his relations, and destined L» 100
to the support of the poor. Messrs James and Gabriel Stewart
of Cults amassed a handsome fortune by their business in Lon*
don, and the former bequeathed L.1000 to the poor; and Mr
George Gordon of Fodderletter, of whom honourable mention is
made in the last Statistical Report, as a chemist and botanist,
left L. 50 to the poor, which, under the provisions of his deed of
settlement, has now accumulated to L. 155. Mr McDonald of
Grantown also bequeathed L. 45 to the poor.
The annual amount of contributions for the poor is about L.95.
Of this sum there is about L.17 collected in the parish churches.
Charitable donations make about L. 13 a year more. Of this
sum, the Duke of Richmond has given L. 10 for the last few years.
There is a fund of L.760, bequeathed by various benevolent indi-
viduals belonging to the parish, which yields about L. 30 of year-
ly interest ; and there is a sum of L.1000 in the hands of Wil-
liam Forbes^ Stewart, Esq. of London, for which he pays about
L.85 yearly interest. Two*thirds of the interest of this last sum
is destined to the support of the Roman Catholic poor in the pa-
rish, under the management of the Roman Catholic Priest, the
other third is under the management of the kirk-session, for be-
hoof of the Protestant poor.
The spirit of independence and a desire to refrain from seeking
parochial relief prevails to a considerable extent among the poor,
but, it is believed, that, in proportion as the means of extending
parochial aid to them are increased, this spirit of independence
decreases.
Owing to severe harvest frosts, the crops of 1836, 1837, and
1838, were almost complete failures, especially the crop of the
year 1838; and it was found necessary, towards the beginning
of 1839, to raise extraordinary supplies for the maintenance of the
poor. On application to the committees in London and Glasgow
for the management of a fund raised for the relief of the destitute
in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, a grant of L.150 was
obtained. This sum, aided by other sources, afforded the means
of distributing 167^ bolls of meal in the parish, which relieved the
necessities of 198 families.
Prisons. — Any criminal offenders in this part of the country, of
whom the number is happily very small, are sent to the county-jail
312 BANFFSHIRE.
at Banff, a distance of about fifty miles. There is a lock-up«house
in the village of Tomintoul, under the charge of a district consta-
ble. But this place of safe keeping is comparatively useless, from
the want of any resident magistrate, or efficient means of securing
those disturbers of the public peace, who not unfrequently infest
the village, and annoy the peaceful and well-inclined portion of the
community. There are five markets held annually in Tomintoul,
viz. on the last Friday of May, new style; on the last Friday of
July, old style ; on the third Wednesday of August, old style ; on
Friday after the second Tuesday of September, old style ; and on
the second Friday of November, old style. These markets are
principally for the sale of cattle and sheep, and engaging servanli^.
Inn$, — There are four inns or public-houses in Tomintoul, and
two in the country part of the parish. It is much to the credit of
Mr Skinner, the Duke of Richmond's factor for this parish, that
he strenuously opposes the indiscriminate licensing of dram-houses.
FueL — The only description of fuel used in the parish is moss-
peat.
Miscellaneous Observations.
The more striking variations betwixt the present state of the
parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Ac-
count, exhibit considerable improvement in the state of society.
The means of religious instruction and attendance on these means
are greatly increased, as appears from the Sabbath collections
made for the poor. These have increased about eightfold, or
from L.2, 2s. 6^d. to about L.17. The total annual funds for the
maintenance of the poor have increased fortyfold, or from Li.2, 2s*
6^d. to L.95. The population has increased more than one-third,
and the attendance of children at school is fourfold, or from about
80 to 320. The minister's stipend is increased about four-
fold, or from L.68, 6s. 8d. to an average of more than L.240,
whilst he has less than half the charge.
. The arable acres are increased from 1 550 to 2400, and the rent
from about L. 1100 to L.2760. The permanent poor's funds have
increased from L.5 to about L.1800.
The parish is susceptible of considerable improvement, by
means of planting the hills and moors, improving waste ground,
enclosing the fields, and road-making. In this last particular, some-
thing has been done within the last ten or twelve years, by open-
ing up a line of internal communication along the banks of the
CULLEN« 313
Avon, and another to the east by Glenlivat. Arrangements are
also made by the Duke of Richmond for subdividing and en?
closing the farms ; and as His Grace evinces a disposition to pro-
mote the interests of his tenantry, and improve his extensive do-
mains, it is expected that he will give orders to plant a considera?
ble portion of the waste ground in the parish.
j4pril 1842.
PARISH OF CULLEN.*
PRESBYTBRr OF FORDYCE, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN.
THE REV. GEORGE HENDERSON, A.M., MINISTER.
I. — Topography and Natural History.
Name. — The etymology of the name of this parish, as well as
the historical origin of the royal burgh of Cullen, appear to be
lost in the mist of antiquity. The legendary accounts prevalent
in the parish, and even to be met with in the writings of some of
the minor historians, are unworthy of notice. It was originally
called Inveratlany being bounded on the north and west by the
water of Cullen, which falls into the sea at the western extremity
of the parish ; but it has long borne the name of CulaUj Culane^
or Cullen only.
Extent and Boundaries, — The ecclesiastical parish consists of
two parts, viz. Cullen proper, or Cullen quoad civilia^ and a por-
tion of the neighbouring parish of Rathven, annexed to it qurad
sacra. The former, which bears the form of a wedge, extends
from north to south, in length about 1^ miles, and from east to
west, in average breadth, nearly 1 mile, containing 684 imperial
acres. The annexation from Rathven is about 3 miles in length,
from east to west, and nearly 2 miles in breadth, from north to
south. Cullen Proper is bounded on the north, by the Moray
Frith ; on the south, by Rathven and Deskford ; on the east, by
Fordyce ; and on the west, by Rathven.
Topographical Appearances, — ^The topographical appearance of
this parish presents the richest and most varied landscape of hill
* The following sUtutics apply only to the parish of Cullen ])roper, unless where
special refcrcuce is made to the annexation.
814 BANFFSHIRE.
and dale, wood, water, and' highly cultivated 6elds, which is to be
seen in the district. Along its shores, the rocks rise in precipitous
grandeur, or are thrown up in rugged deforinity, to a very consi-
derable height above the level of the sea. In some places, they
are perpendicular, or nearly so ; in others, they are disrupted, and
jut out into the water in fragments. Thence, the land rises by a
gentle acclivity, on which the ancient barony of Ogilvie is situated,
and which the Noble proprietors have been pleased to distinguish,
by assuming its more modern name of Seafield, as their most ho-
noured title. Advancing to the south, the land rises more abruptly,
then gradually descends to the extreme boundary of Cullen pro-
per. Here and there, in a gentle undulating manner, it forms it-
self on the top into knolls or risings. From an elevated spot on
Sea6eld farm, the view is most extensive and delightful. To
the north-west, are seen the most prominent buildings of the new
town of Cullen, pleasantly situated on the western acclivity of the
hill adjacent to the sea, the sandy bay of Cullen, and the bold
and precipitous headland of Scarnose, forming the western extre-
mity of the bay, and the most northern point of land on this side
the Moray Frith. In the back ground, the distant shores and
dark blue mountains of Sutherland and Caithness, on the oppo-
site side of the frith, are distinctly seen ; while the wide interven-
ing expanse of sea, bespangled with trading vessels and 6shing-
boats, adds greatly to the landscape. To the southward, are seen
the richly cultivated fields of Cullen proper, and part of the arable
lands of the annexation, also in the highest state of luxuriance ;
the latter bounded by a dense and extensive forest, which imparts
to the scene an aspect of the most picturesque beauty. The view
in another direction is not less interesting. To the west and
south-west, stands the Bin Hill, which is partly within the quoad
sacra district of the parish, and forms the most conspicuous object
in the district. It has two tops, the one considerably higher than
the other, and presents to the eye of the spectator looking from
the north, very much of the form of the lion couchant Its ele-
vation above the sea is 1076 feet, and it serves as an excellent
land-mark to navigators. About seventy years ago, it was planted
with trees, which have thriven well, excepting towards the sum-
mit, where the severity of the exposure bids defiance to vegetation
of any kind, save heath. In the same direction, is seen the stately
mansion of Cullen House, with its superb pleasure grounds. In
CULLEN. 315
the back ground, the woods and plantations of the ancient barony
of Rannes, in the parish of Rathven, meet the eye ; and in the
distance, the bleak mountains of Inverness-shire shut up the view.
Meteorology, — From its proximity to the sea, and the quality
of its soil, the climate of this parish is cool and bracing. In win-
ter, when the inland districts are covered with frosts and snow, it
stands comparatively free from either, particularly the latter.
This is to be attributed to the strong influence of the sea breezes,
and the thorough draining which a great portion of the land has
recently undergone. The season of spring is proverbially early,
especially in the grounds around Cullen House, where the culti-
vation is so high, and the shelter afforded by wood so complete,
that the growth of trees and plants may almost be said to be un-
interrupted during the whole year. In this parish, no disease is
endemick ; its inhabitants are, on the whole, more healthy than
those in the inland districts ; and it is frequently resorted to by in-
valids, on account of the salubrity of its climate. There are pro-
bably few places in Scotland more conducive to health and lon-
gevity. The people are not liable to any prevailing distemper*
£pidemicks are of very rare occurrence ; and when they do visit
the district, are generally of a mild character. Many of the in-
habitants live to the age of eighty-five and ninety ; and lately,
two persons, natives of the parish, died, each at the patriarchal
age of one hundred years and upwards. The Bin Hill, in the im-
mediate vicinity, and the most prominent object in the district,
acts as a never-erring barometer, its summit being invariably co-
vered with mist, previous to rain or moist weather. The prevail-
ing winds are, the north, north-east, and north-west. These are
cold, but comparatively harmless to vegetation, except that from
the north-west blowing violently, in the end of July and beginning
of August, before the white crops have attained maturity ; its
blighting effects sometimes occasioning considerable loss to the
farmer. There is no thermometrical or barometrical table kept
in the parish. The average annual fall of rain is 22^ inches.
Hydrography. — The parish is bounded on the west and south
by the water of Cullen, which rises in the heights of Deskford,
and, proceeding in a northerly direction for a distance of about
six miles, enters Cullen parish at its south-eastern boundary.
By draining in its course the hollows of Deskford, it receives a
considerable accession to its strength, and by the time it has
316 HANFPSniRF.
reached Tocbieneal farm, has become a stream of considerable
magnitude. Thence taking a north-westerly direction, it supplies
the machinery of several works with water-power, and receives
some additions in its progress, until it enters the policies of Cul-
len House, of which it forms a highly ornamental feature. Sweep-
ing the base of the perpendicular rock on which the mansion
stands, it flows directly north for nearly a mile, and then enters
the bay of Cullen. In the whole of its course, it has a very con-
siderable velocity, and, by the time it has reached Cullen House^
has acquired a breadth, within its banks, of twenty feet. The
water is clear and pure, and has long been used for the purposes
of bleaching, &c. There are no remarkable springs in the pa-
rish, with the exception of one at the farm of Tochieneal, which
is strongly impregnated with sulphurated hydrogen. Its tempera*
ture, February 22, 1842, was 40^ The other fountains, rising
within the parish, are all used for culinary and domestic pur-
poses.
Geology and Mineralogy. — This parish exhibits no remarkable
geological features. In length and breadth, it reposes on a single
bed of stratified quartz, standing at an angle of from 50^ to 80%
and which, again, reposes on a thick bed of compact graywacke,
in a conformable position. The direction of the strata is from
north-east to south-west, the dip being north-west and south-east.
Adjacent to the harbour, the greywacke has assumed the slaty
structure, and alternates with the quartz. In the flat sandy bay
of Cullen, (situated in the quoad sacra district of the parish),
there are three remarkable masses of insulated rock, called the
'^ Three Kings."* The first, or most easterly, is formed of quartz,
in small angular fragments, which, in some places, are loose, and
in others appear cemented together by a ferruginous paste. The
other two are composed of pudding-stone, or old red sandstone^
which appears to have been protruded through the surrounding
strata. These masses of rock are of considerable height, and of
different shapes, and being, moreover, formed of different mate*
rials, have a very striking appearance on the flat surface of the
plain on which they stand. The old red sandstone appears no*
* The reason asatigned for the above name, is the legendary tale, that a Danish,
^ Scotch, and Norwegian King, met at this spot^ in order to settle their feuds by
peraonal combat. Two were to fight, and the third was to be arbiter of the contest.
It is said that the Danish King felli and that the Scotch King came oflT victorious.
History, howerer, is siJent on the subject.
CULLKN. 31T
H'bere else within the parish. About half a mile to the westward,
two patches of the new red or stratified sandstone, appear reposing,
in a horizontal position, on the disrupted edges of the greywacke*
The upper or diluvial beds are shingle, clay, &C Near Tochie-
neal Cottage, at the southern boundary of the parish, there is an
extensive bed of fine lias clay, containing ammonites, belemnites,
and other petrifactions common to the lias formation, and which
can be traced over a considerable portion of the southern part of
the parish. This clay having been by the plough mixed with the
vegetable mould, has rendered the soil uncommonly productive.
No erratic or rolled blocks have been seen, either in the interior
of the parish, or along its shores, different from the rocks in situ ;
Dor, with the above-mentioned exception, have any petrifactions
or veins of metal been ever found.
Botany, — The parish of Cullen, throughout its ecclesiastical
extent, possesses a highly interesting and most extensive Flora.
With variety of soil and exposure, it comprehends hill and dale,
wood, water, and sea coast. It is matter of regret, however, that
this interesting field for botanical research has never, to the know-
ledge of the writer, been examined with that industry and atten-
tion which it so well deserves, and seldom indeed at all, save by
the passing- stranger. Yet, notwithstanding this desideratum,
the writer is enabled to notice several plants comparatively rare
in the district. Subjoined also are the names of some of the more
common, which are particularly remarkable for luxuriance of
growth, and beauty of flower. Along the sloping sides of the
Bin hill, many alpine plants are to be found, among which may be
noticed :
Anemone apennina Vaccinium Tttis^idaea Rubus chamsmorus.
Hyacinthiu non-soriptus royrtillus
Vaccinium oxycocoos Oxalis acetosella
Towards the base of the Bin hill, and in the lower grounds, are
found :
Adoza moacbatellina Circaa alpina Juniperus communis
Ainufl glutinosa Digitalis purpurea Lamium album
Borago officinalis Geranium pratense Trientalis Europsa.
Campanula latifolia Iris pseudacorus
Along the coast and sea shore are found :
Carez arenaria Laminaria digitata Porpbyra ladniala
Paeus esculentus Lanrentia pinnati6da Rhodomenia palmata-
Heltanthemum vulgare Plantago coronopus Sakola kali. |
318 BANFFSHIRi:.
The holly (Ikx aquifolium) is remarkably abundant in the pa-
rish, and apparently indigenous.*
II. — Civil History.
Historical Events. — It is well known, that the piratical Danes,
who long had the mastery of the seas, continued for se?eral cen-
turies to desolate the coasts of Scotland, and to prove a per*
petual scourge to the country. Although their incursions and
depredations are involved in much obscurity, yet the scattered
notices and traditionary accounts handed down to the present
time, leave no doubt of their predatory inroads along the shores
of the Moray Frith. In Buchanan's History of Scotland it is
recorded, that the Danes, after having made an unsuccessful at-
tempt to land on the coast of Buchan, proceeded farther west*
ward, and put ashore at the mouth of the burn or water of CuUen*
Thither Indulfus, who then held the sceptre of Scotland, march-
ed at the head of his army to oppose their progress, and a bloody
battle ensued between the Scotch and their Danish invaders. The
scene of the conflict is denominated by the above historian yn and Enzie, that the Queen, at the time of her
death, might have been the guest of some of their friends or rela-
tives in that quarter.
The town of Cullen had its share of the troubles to whi'Gf^ ^
Scotland was subjected in the days of the Covenanters, having-
been repeatedly plundered by the Marquis of Montrose, and after-
wards burnt On the 4th March 1645, Montrose, with the body
of his army, had stationed himself at the Bog of Gight, ^^ and
sent beforehand over Spey the Farquharsons of Brae of Mar, to
plunder the town of Cullen, pertaining to the Earl of Findlater,
which they did pitifully." A short time thereafter, ** Montrose
marches frae the Bog to the plac% of Cullep of Boyn, the Earl of
Findlater having fled south himself before to Edinburgh, leaving in
thir dangerous days (pitiful to behold) his lady behind him. This
stately house, well decored with stately insight and plenishing, and
furnished with silver plate and all other necessaries, was pitifully
plundered, and nothing tursable left ; and then was beginning to
raise fire, but the lady pitifully besought Montrose (now in her hus-
band's absence) to forbear firing of her ground, but for the space of
fifteen days, within the whilk time, if her husband came not to give
satisfaction, that then his Lordship should do as pleased him best ;
and for this peace of fifteen days time, she promised twenty thousand
merks, whereof she paid in hand five thousand merks. Montrose
granted her desire upon the conditions foresaid, and raised no fire
on the Earl of Findlater's grounds (albeit a great Covenanter) at this
BANFF. X
320 BANFFSHIRE.
time."* From what has been stated^ it might be supposed, that our
good town of Cullen would have been spared from farther violence.
Such, however, was not the case ; for, about the middle of May in
the same year, Montrose sent a party of his troops to Cullen, and
burnt the whole town to the ground, first plundering and carrying
off every thing valuable, then consuming the remainder in one
common blaze; and, doubtless, many of the aged, infirm, and
helpless, fell victims to the devouring element.
Family ofFindlater and Seqfield. — This noble and ancient &•
mily is descended from Gilchrist, a man of high rank, and a fa-
vourite of King Malcolm Canmore, whom that monarch created
Earl of Angus. He lived after the year 1120, and was among
the first in Scotland upon whom the title of Earl was conferred.
His son, Gilibrede, the second Earl of Angus, was a great war-*
rior, and lived in the reigns of David L, Malcolm IV., and Wil-
liam the Lion. He had six sons, of whom Gilbert, the third, was
ancestor of the present family of Seafield. He was a man of
great abilities ; and, agreeably to the custom of these early times^
.assumed his name from his lands of Ogilvie, viz. Gilbert de
Ogilvie. f
Sir Walter Ogilvie of Auchleven, the eighth in direct lineal de-
scent from the aforesaid Gilbert de Ogilvie, and second son of Sir
Walter Ogilvie of Lin trethan, Lord High Treasurer of Scotland in
1425, married, in 1437, Margaret, daughter and heiress of Sir
John Sinclair of Deskford and Find later, who was killed at the
battle of Harlaw, in 1411. The baronies thus acquired by Sir
Walter Ogilvie of Auchleven became the chief titles of his family ;
and, in accordance with ancient usage in such cases, he quartered
the arms of Sinclair of Deskford with his paternal coat of Ogilvie.
In 1440, he obtained two charters, under the Great Seal, of the
lands and baronies of Deskford, Findlater, &c. Sir Walter Ogilvie
of Deskford and Findlater, the sixth in direct lineal descent froni
* Spalding's History.
\ The following is the reason, assigned by some historians, for Gilbert changing
his name to that of Ogilvie: — The Gilchrists having unfortunately incurred the re-
sentment of their sovereign, were, in oonsequenee, long subjected to the losa of the
royal favour. The king one day, in Uiking the diversion of hunting, imprudent-
ly separated himself from his retinue, and was attacked by a band of robbers. At
that critical moment the Gilchruts made their appearance, and, having dispersed
the robbers, had the good fortune to rescue the king; upon which, the differences
formerly existing between them weie immediately made up ; the king intimating tn
them, thnt he would grant them, without reserve, whatever favour they chose to ask ;
but adding, at the 8a:ne time, a condition, that, for the future, they should hold and
bear the name of Ogilvie; a.s tl)c monarch in his wrath had previously sworn, that no
man, within his kingdpm, should l>e suffered to live, and bear the name 9f pilchriM.
CULLEN. 321
the aforesaid Sir Walter Ogilvie of Auchleven, was a nmn of great
abilities, and a favourite of James VL, by whom he was raised to
the dignity of the Peerage, and created Lord Ogilvie of Desk-
ford, October 4, 1616. His son and heir, James, second Lord
Ogilvie, was created Earl of Findlater by Charles L, 20tb Febru-
ary 1638, by patent to the heirs-male of his body; but, having no
male issue, he obtained a new patent, Idth October 1641, in fa-
vour of Sir Patrick Ogilvie of Inchmartin, who had married bis
eldest daughter, Elizabeth. This St Patrick became second Earl
of Findlater, and died 1658^ leaving an only son, James, third
Earl, who died 171 1, and was succeeded by his son James, fourth
Earl, K. T., the celebrated lawyer and statesman, who, during his
father's lifetime, was created, 28th June 1698, Viscount SeaGeld,
and, 24th June 1701, Earl of Seafield, Viscount of Reidhaven,
with remainder, on failure of male issue of his body, to his other
lieirs of entail. He died 1730, and was succeeded by his son and
heir, James, fifth Earl of Findlater, and second Earl of Seafield, who
died 1764, leaving the following issue, viz, a son, James, by whom
he was succeeded, and two daughters, Margaret and Ann, the
former married to Sir Ludovick Grant of Grant, Bart^ the latter
to John second Earl of Hopetoun. James the sixth Earl of Find-
later, and third Earl of Seafield, died 1770, and was succeeded by
bis son and heir, James, seventh Earl of Findlater, and fourth
Earl of Seafield; on whose death, without issue, 1811, the EarU
dom of Findlater, which was limited to the heirs«male of the body
of the first Earl, became extinct ; but the Earldom of Seafield,
and the other titles created by the patent of 1701, together with
the whole of the family estates, devolved on his cousin. Sir Lewis
Alexander Grant of Grant, Bart., son of Sir James Grant of
Grant, Bart, and grandson of Sir Ludovick Grant of Grant,
Bart, and his wife, Margaret, elder daugltter of James, fifth Earl
of Findlater, and second Earl of Seafield. Sir Lewis Alexander
Grant, fifth Earl of Seafield, assumed the name of Ogilvie, and
died 1840, without issue. He was succeeded by his brother, the
Honourable Francis William Grant, the sixth and present Earl of
Seafield, who has male issue.
The house of Seafield is lineally connected with the following
noble families : Aberdeen, Airly, Athol, Banff, Buchan, Caith^
ness, Egliuton, Elphinstone, Fife, Glencairn, Gray, Hamilton,
Hopetoun, Huntly, Kinnoul, Lauderdale, Lovat, Morton, Oli-
phant, Rothes, Saltoun. Chief seaU ; CuUen House, Banffshire ;
322 BANFFSHIRE*
Castle Grant and Balimacaan, Inverness-shire ; Grant Lodge,
Morayshire.
Eminent Characters. — Under this head, the name of James
fourth Earl of Findlater and first Earl of Seafield, claims a special
notice. This distinguished statesman and eminent lawyer was
born in 1664. In 1689, he was chosen member of the Conven-
tion of Estates for the burgh of Cullen, in which capacity he ob-
tained much celebrity, by a remarkable speech in favour of King
James VII., and by being one of the five members who dissented
from the act for forfeiting that monarch. Contrary to what might
have been expected, his firmness and fidelity to his former sove-
reign had not the effect of injuring him in the eyes of James's suc-
cessor ; for, after the government was settled in favour of William,
he became a special favourite of his Majesty. In 1693, being an
eminent lawyer, he was appointed Solicitor for the Crown, She-
riff of Banff, and, at the same time, received the honour of kniglit-
hood. In 1695, he was appointed Secretary of State. In 1698
he was appointed President of the Parliament, and was, at the
same time, created Viscount Seafield. In 1700, he held the erf"-
fice of his Majesty^s Commissioner to the General Assembly of
the Church of Scotland, and was thrice afterwards preferred to
the same dignity, viz. in 1708^ 1724, and 1727. In 1701, he was
created Earl of Seafield. He continued Secretary of State dur-
ing all King William's reign ; and, upon the accession of Queen
Anne, he filled the same department, until November 1702, wheo
he was appointed Chancellor. In 1703, he was created a Knight
of the Thistle. In 1704, he was again appointed Secretary of
State, and likewise presided in Parliament. In the same year, he
was appointed Chancellor for the second time, in which office bo
continued until the Union was completed, having been first Com-
missioner for Scotland at the treaty of Union, and presided in the
Scottish Parliament which ratified it* After the Union, he was
* It is a somewlmt remarkable circumstance, that, although his Lordahip was majli^
ly instrumental in promoting the Union, it was, nevertheless, in imminent danger of
being dissolved, several years aiter the act was passed, through the instrumentality of
the same individual. When the Malt- Tax was extended to Scotland, his Lordship
was so irritated at the measure, considering it an infringement of the articles of
Union, that, in the House of Lords, Ist June 1713, be laid open the grievances of
the Scottish nation, which he reduced to four heads, viz. 1. The being deprived of
a Privy- Council ; 2. The extension of the treason laws of England to Scotland ; 8.
The Peers of Scotland being incapacitated from being created Peers of Great Bri-
uin ; and, 4. The Scots being subjected to the Malt Tax, which would be tfae'mori»
insupportable to them now, in that they never bore it during the war, and had reason
to expect the benefits of a peace,— concluding, that, since the Union had not been
productive of those good effects which were expected^ he moved, that leave be given
CULLEN. 323
appointed Chief Baron of tbe Court of Exchequer in Scotland,
and a member of the Privy* Council. He was chosen one of the
sixteen Peers in the first British Parliament, and was repeatedly
re*elected to the same honour. In 1713, he was again appointed
Chancellor, and Keeper of tbe Great Seal in Scotland ; and dur*
ing all the periods in which he held the office of Chancellor, he
presided in the Court of Session. As a Senator of the College
of Justice, he is recorded to have displayed consummate eloquence,
great legal abilities, and a peculiar talent of dispatch in business.
His Lordship died in 1730, in the sixty-sixth year of his age.
There have been few men, to whom his country has been so
deeply indebted, considered in the character of a peaceful patriot,
as to James sixth Earl of Findlater and third Earl of Seafield,
born 1714. To that distinguished individual, appertained the ex-
clusive merit, of introducing into the north of Scotland, those im-
provements in agriculture,* manufactures, and all kinds of useful
to bring in a bill for dissolving it, and securing the Protestant succession in the
House of Hanover, presenring tbe Queeti*s prerogative in both kingdooMy and an
entire amity and good correspondence betwixt England and Scotland. His Lord-
8hip*s motion was put to tlie vote : 108 Peers were in tbe House, who were equally
divided, viz. 54 for the motion, and 54 against it ; 13 proxies voted for and 17 against
the motion, leaving a majority of only 4 out of 138,-— so narrowly did the Union
escape a iatal blow from the hands of the individual who had been so instrumental in
promoting it.
* The following may serve as a specimen of the important services, rendered by his
Lordship, to the cause of agriculture in Banffshire. *^ The agriculture of this
•county stood in the most forlora state, till about tlie year 1754, when the late Earl of
Findlater, then Lord DcsLford, to whose unremitting exertions are to be asciibed
the introduction of improvements in agriculture, as well as manufactures, in this
country, came to reside in the neighbourhood of Banff; and, having taken one of his
farms into his own possession, set about cultivating it in the most approved manner
then known in England ; and for that purpose engaged, one after another,^ tliree of
the most experienced overseers irom that kingdom, and, in a few years, improved the
farms of Craigherbs, in the parish of Boyndie, and CoUeenard, in the parish of Banff,
as well as the fields about bis princely seat of CuUen House, in a style and manner
then unknown in this part of the country. But his Lordship was sensible, that,
however succemful he might be in the cultivation of (arms in his own possession, it
was not probable, that this success would operate so powerfully on the minds of his
tenants, as to induce them, without some substantial reasons, to venture on untried
experiments, or to leave the beaten paths in which they and their fathers had trod fur
ages. He therefore formed and executed a plan, which did great credit to his judg-
ment, and which has had the good effect of awakening that spirit of improvement
which has now become general over the district, at least among the proprietors and
more respectable farmers. His Lordsliip selected some of tlie most intelligent, active,
and substantial tenants in the country, to whom he granted leases on reasonable term%
for two nineteen years and a lifetime, of farms fonncrly occupied by three or four te«
nants. By these leases, the tenant became bound under a penalty, which was insert-
ed in the lease, to enclose and subdivide a certain portio.i of the farm with stone
fences, or ditch and hedge, during the first nineteen years of the leose, and in tbe
course of the second nineteen years, to enclose the remainder. They were also bound
to summer fallow, and sow grass seeds on a certain number of acres, within the first
five years of the lease. His Lordship had also Uie merit of being the first to intro-
duce the turnip- husbandry, and, by his example, as well as precept, during his fre-
quent excursions among his tenants, was the means of bringing the cultivation of that
324 BANFFSHIRE.
industry, which, in the space of a few years, raised his country
from a state of semi-barbarism to a degree of civilization, equal to
that of the most improved districts of the south. His Lordship
completed an excellent education by foreign travel, which emi-
nently quali6ed him for the distinguished part he was destined to
act in the field of philanthropy. In 1754, he was appointed one
of the Commissioners of Customs in Scotland ; and in 1765, was
constituted one of the Lords of Police. He was one of the trus-
tees for the improvement of fisheries and manufactures, and for
the management of the forfeited estates in Scotland ; and attended
to the business of these boards with the most exemplary zeal and
assiduity. Enthusiastic in his desire to benefit his native land,
the prime object of his ambition, he conversed much with and
greatly honoured men of letters and persons of ingenuity in every
profession, always endeavouring to convert whatever knowledge he
by such means acquired, to the improvement of his country. In
these truly patriotic pursuits, he succeeded to an extent altogether
unparalleled in the annals of industrial improvements ; and his
name is still a household word over the north of Scotland, being
regarded as that of a man who, in his day and generation, proved
crop, as vreW as other green crops, by degrees, into general practice. Although his
Lordship well knew the baneful effects of exacting services from his tenants, he had
them bound, in proportion to the sise of their respective farms, to send their sons or
servants, a certain number of days, to assist in the hand-hoeing of his own turnips, for
the express purpose of teaching them to do this work, in a proper manner, on the
other (arms of his estate. So averse were the men, at that time, to this kind of work,
that they expected to get free from it, by giving the overseer cause to complain, that
they were doing it in a slovenly manner. His Lordship, however, was not to be de-
ceived or disappointed in his favourite scheme, and immediately directed, that, until
they could do a sufficient day's work in a proper manner, they must make it up, by
serving more days than was stipulated for. By this means, it will easily be imagined,
his Lordship gained his much- wished for object, and the business of turnip-hoeing
was, in a few years, very well performed all over his estate.
« It is not to be expected» that any general improvement in the modes of agriculture
can be introduced all at once, or that the inhabitants of a country will, on a sudden,
give up their old habits and ways of thinking. They must be induced to do so, either
from the advantage which they«are satisBed they will derive, in consequence of mak-
ing new arrangements with the proprietors, or from a conviction in their own minds,
that the experiments of their more adventurous neighbours have proved successful
and advantageous ; and, therefore, in this new state of things, it was no wonder, not-
withstanding Lord Findlater's unwearied exertions, that many years elapsed, before
fallow, sowing grass and turnip, and other green crops, came into general practice,
even in that quarter of his estate, which may be said to have had the advantage of his
personal superintendence. But the tenants being at last satisfied, that the improve-
ments introduced by his Lordsliip were such as, if adopted by them, would promote
their interest, they set about making experiments, which having, in every instance}
\exceeded expectation, the spirit of improvement began to gain ground, and, as a na^
tural consequence, his Lordship*s example was followed by the uther proprietors, and
by many of the more intelligent farmers in other parts of the country. In a short pe-
riod, the system of agriculture, the circumstances of the tenants, and the general ap-
pearance of the country, became greatly changed."— Original Report of the Agri«
culture ol Banflsliire, with M>me alterations.
CULLEN. 325
himself one of the most substantial benefactors of his species. His
Lordship died at CuUen House, dd November 1770, in the fifty-*
sixth year of his age.
Sir James Clark, Bart., First Physician to Her Majesty, is a
native of this parish ; and, at the parochial school of the neigh-
bouring pari2^h of Fordyce, received the elements of that educa-
tion, which, by successful cultivation, has deservedly raised him to
the highest professional eminence. Although he has been long
absent from the place of his nativity, he has uniformly evinced a
lively interest in its welfare, by frequent and substantial acts of be*
neticence ; and to his friendship, not a few of his countrymen have
been mainly indebted, for their prosperity in life.
Land^awner, — The Earl of Seafield is proprietor of the whole
parish, with the exception of nine and a half Scotch acres, mortified
for charitable and educational purposes. There are few parishes in
Scotland so fortunate in their proprietary as CuUen. His Liord-
ship, who resides chiefly at CuUen House, deservedly sustains the
character of a patriot and philanthropist, in the true and proper
meaning of the terms ; evincing the most lively interest in the im<
provements not only of the lands in his own natural possession, but
in every part of his princely estates, and stimulating the exertions
of his tenantry, by the most liberal yet judicious encouragement.
Parochial Registers. — These have been well preserved, and are
in good order. With the exception of a hiatus of eight years, viz.
from 1762 to 1770, the records of the kirk-session contain an un-
interrupted history of its proceedings, from 1640 down to the pre-
sent time. The register of baptisms and marriages commences in
1682, and is quite complete from that date.
Antiquities, — On the eastern bank of the water of Cullen, and
overhanging the Sea-town, an eminence, called the Castle hill,
rises in a conical form, to the height of upwards of 200 feet above
the level of the sea« In remote ages, it appears to have been
crowned with a vitrified castle or fort, which had been guarded by
a triple wall and ditch. These have long since been demolished,
but traces of them are yet distinctly visible. This castle, like
many others along the coast, has been the subject of much specu-
lation among antiquaries and historians. They appear to have
been, in general, situated upon promontories, mountains, and other
lofty eminences. Their massive walls were cemented with vitrid
matter, (instead of lime), which is alleged to have been produced
by a powerful heat and flux, (perhaps kelp), and which, falling
826 BANFFSHIRE.
into the crevices of the building, so effectually united the whole,
that the remains of the cement, which are occasionally to be
found, appear to be almost as strong as the solid rock. These for-
tresses appear to have been occupied by the chiefs and proprie*
tors of the adjacent soil, as places of safety, in those barba^
rous and unsettled times, which rendered such erections neces-
sary. It is traditionally reported, that this castle was original
ly the residence of the proprietors of Cullen and the adjacent
grounds ; and if such were the case, it is not improbable that
the Queen of Robert de Bruce may have died in it. A far-
ther tradition respecting it (there being no record whatever) is,
that it was a military fortress, occupied by the Scottish forces
about the time of the invasion of the Danes, and when an enemy
appeared, the inhabitants of Cullen carried their roost valuable ar-
ticles into the castle for safety. Before the use of cannon, the
Castle-hill was extremely well situated for warlike operations,
being inaccessible from the north by an almost perpendicular rock
of 1 70 feet in height.
Ecclesiastical History and ArUiquiHes. — The present parish
church was originally dedicated to St Mary, and is of considera-
ble antiquity. The following is ah excerpt from an unpublished
manuscript, entitled, " A view of the Diocese of Aberdeen i^
" Church of Saint Mary of Cullen. This church was founded by
Robert I.i and it is said that the bowels of his Queen Elizabeth
are buried here. This church had a provost., six prebends, and
two singing boys, founded by Alexander Ogilvie of that Ilk, pre-
decessor of the Earl of Findlater, Mr Alexander Dick, Archbishop
of Glasgow, John Duff of Muldavit, ancestor of Lord Fife, with
all the magistrates of Cullen, an. 1.543. This foundation was con-
firmed by William Bishop of Aberdeen, the same year^ and by
John Archbishop of St Andrews, legat a latere^ 1552. Each of the
clergy was to have twenty merks yearly in lands and money, toge-
ther with an apartment and garden. For this end, they had se-
veral crofts allotted to them^in the town, together with the vicarage
of Rathven, with all the privileges belonging to the burghers of
Cullen." Agreeably to the above statement regarding the foun-
dation of the church of Cullen, it appears from the charter of the
burgh, that ^^ Robert of Bruce, King of the Scotch, granted and
gave in gift for ever, L. 5 of the money of the kingdom, (/. e,
8s. 4d. Sterling,) for the support of a chaplain in the parish church
of ffie blessed Mary, of our burgh of Ctillen, always to pray for
CULLEN. 327
the soul of the most serene Princess Queen Elizabeth, consort of
the same King Robert/'
Mfmuments. — The church of Cullen, having been, for many
ages, the burying- place of the Findlater and Seafield family, con-
tains several ancient monuments of a very elegant description.
The chief of these is a monument (1554) to the memory of Alex-
ander Ogilvie, Baron of Findlater, and his wife, Elizabeth Gordon,
which, in point of Gothic excellence and grandeur of design, is
perhaps inferior to none in Europe of a corresponding age.* A
superb monument to the memory of John Duff of Muldavat, re*
presenting the 6gure of an armed warrior recumbent, was remov*
ed in 1790, along with the supposed ashes of the deceased, from
the family burying -place in the church of Cullen, and deposited
in the mausoleum in Duff House Park. The aforesaid John Duff,
who had his residence near to where the present mansion of Cul-
len House stands, on the opposite side of the water of Cullen, was
a reputed ancestor of the Fife family, and died in 1404. In the
southern aisle of the church, are some curious foundation inscrip*
tions, well worthy the attention of the antiquary.
Cullen House. — Culien House, the principal residence of the
Earl of Seafield, is situated in the parish of Cullen proper, at the
distance of six furlongs from the town. It is an ancient and state-
ly structure, consisting of several irregular masses of unadorned
building, erected at different periods, the oldest of which is, in all
probability, coeval with the erection of the present parish church,
(in the fourteenth century,) to which it appears to have been ori-
ginally attached as a monastic edifice. It contains many magnifi-
* This monument is thus described in Cordiner's Antiquities of North Britain :— .
** The splendid enrichments that crown the pyramidal columns, have a very elegant
and beautiful effect llie bas reliefe are well raised, and minutely finislied. 1'he
figures of the entombed, in devotional attitudes, are well rounded and correctly
drawn. Tiie sculptures of the central and interior part, according to the ideas oi
early ages, have most learned and sublime allusion. Two angels guarding an altar-
piece, on which the virtues of the deceased are Inscribed, suem to call the dead, re-
presented by a skeleton laid ander the altar, to appear before the tribunal of the
Most High, expressed by a hieroglyphic above. * The Ancient of Days sat on
the clouds of Heaven, and they came near before him to judgment,' was the bold
imagery by which the prophet Daniel pointed out the things that must be hereafter.
The well-known symbol here on the tomb of this omb, upholding the globe in
his arm, implies the Intellectual Power and Wisdom which is the origin and support
of Creation. The attitude of Benediction and the Triple Crown, though seemingly
uf more modern allusion, yet, in the Egyptian wisdom, refer lo the Three Great At-
tributes of Deity, and the Supreme pronouncing a bles&ing on his works. The pil-
lars of Heaven, expressed by columns supporting an arch, rest on the cloud, and a
circumambient vine. From thai arch, diverging rays are spread, in which a Dove is
descending, and they beam on the Cross that rises over the Globe, tlie most anci^it
and venerable symbols of the Universal Benignity of the Uncreated Light of the
World, manifesting the Divine Favour to Man."
328 BANFFSHIRE.
cent apartments, furnished in the first style of elegance. It i^
picturesquely elefatedon a perpendicular rock, along the southern
t>ase of which, the water of Cullen, which aniuiates the beautiful
landscape, passes here within a hollow rocky channel, sixty-four
feet deep beneath the mansion walls. Over this current, a hand*
some single-arched stone bridge, of eighty-four feet span, connects
the woods, parks, gardens, and pleasure-grounds with the man-
sion. The plantations, within the umbrageous recesses of which
the mansion is embowered, consist of a great variety of valuable
wood, beneath the shady foliage of which, an excellent carriage*
road, besides many delightful serpentine footpaths, winds by easy
acclivities to the summit of the Bin hill, whence there is an ex-
tensive view of the surrounding country and opposite coast. The
pleasure-grounds are upwards of ten square miles in extent, and
present to the eye a range of scenery, which, for richness, variety,
and picturesque beauty, is not surpassed by any policy in Scot-
land. Here nature has done much, and the embellishments of
art, have been liberally bestowed from time to time, by the No-
ble proprietors, especially by the present Earl, whose accurate and
refined taste has been most successfully exercised, in adding to the
attractions of this magnificent residence. In Cullen House, there
is an elegant and extensive library, consisting of many thousand
volumes in the several departments of literature and science ; and
the walls of the principal apartments are adorned with a great va*
riety of valuable paintings, many of them by the first masters.
The gardens, vineries, &c. are upon a scale of grandeur, corre-
sponding to the dignity and opulence of the Noble proprietor, and
for beauty of arrangement and luxuriance in the growth of rare and
costly plants and fruits, are unrivalled in the north of Scotland.
Modem Buildings. — The only modern building deserving of no-
tice is the Cullen Hotel, attached to which, and under the same
roof, but with a separate entrance, are three public rooms, viz. an
elegant ball-room, 43^ feet in length, and 23 in breadth ; a com-
modious court-room, in which are held the sheriff and justice of
peace courts ; and the council-room of the burgh, a handsome apart-
ment of a circular form, 23^ feet in diameter and 16 feet in
height. The entire building was erected in 1822, at the expense
of the Right Honourable the Earl of Seafield, and cost L. 3000.
It is situated at the public square, and adds much to the appear-
ance of the town.
€ULLRN. 329
III. — Population.
In 1791, the population was 1214
1801, . . 1076
181 1» . . J070
1821, . 1452
1831, . . 1593
184U 1564
The following is an abstract Parliamentary census of ihc eccle-
viasticiil parish taken in 1841 : —
Houses un-
inhabit.
Houses
inhabit.
No. rf
fiimilies.
No. of
males.
No. of
Pemales.
Parish of CuUen proper, vii.
^^
Town of Cullen,
8
169
186
332
380
712
Seatowo of Ditto; .
3
167
176
313
397
710
Rural district, .
•«•
29
29
66
76
142
1
iT
365
391
711
853
1364
Part of the parish of Rathven
annexed quoad tacra to CuU
lec, viz.
Village of Portknockie, .
6
162
166
837
3P8
7l>5
Rural district,
1
65
65
170
163
3:i3
9
227
231
507
551
1058
Total amount of the population of the ecclesiastical parish, . 26'22
The following statistics apply to the ecclesiastical parish, con-
sisting of Cullen proper, and the annexation from Rathven quoad
sacra :
Yearly average of legitimate births for the last seven years, 82
illegitimate, .... 3
Yearly average of marriai^es for the last seven years, - 20
Average number of children by each marriage, a fraction less than - 34
persons in each family, . . 4^
Number of insane, - - • - 2
fatuous, - - - 5
blind, .... 2
deaf and dumb, - - - 1
The following is an accurate classiBcation of the population of
Cullen proper, with respect to professional employment, &c.
Jkpotheciiry, . 1 Crofters, . 40
Bachelors above 50 years of age, 1 1 Dressmakers and seamstresses, 28
Banker, 1 Farmers of upwards of L.50 yearly
Bakers, . . 6 rent, 4
Blacksmiths, 12 Feuars, . 56
Boat-builders, . 22 Fishermen, 60
Brewers, . . 4 Flesher, 1
Carters, . 10 Gamekeepers, . 2
Clergyman, 1 Gardeners, • 12
Clerks, . 3 Innkeepers, . 2
Commander, R. N. . 1 .Justices of peace, • .7
CoopcDt, ... «!) Female day-labourers, » 34
BANFFSHIRE.
07
Male domestic servants.
16
17
Female farm senrants,
5
2
Male Ann servants.
34
2
Ship-owners.
3
9
Shoemakers,
27
19
Slaters,
3
2
Kolicitor-at-law,
I
1
Tailors,
17
3
Female teachers,
6
1
Male do.
2
3
Tinsmiths, •
4
1
Toll>keeper,
1
10
Watsh- makers.
2
2
Weavers,
5
1
Widowers,
27
3
Widows,
84
1
Women unmarried above 45*years
4
ofage.
87
3
Cart-wrights,
10
1
Square-wrightS| .
25
32
Wheel.wright,
1
70
3*^0
Male day-labourers,
IVIasons, .
Medical practitioners,
Coal- merchants,
Meal-merchants,
Merchants or shopkeepers,
Millers, •
Nailer,
Officers of excise,
Officer of fishery.
Sheriff-officers,
Peer,
Pensioners,
Plasterers,
Postmaster, •
Publicans,
Resident landed proprietor.
Rope-makers,
Saddlers, . •
Sail-maker,
Sawyers,
Female domestic servants,
Character and Condition of die People, — The parishioners may
be characterized as in general, intelligent, moral, peaceable, and
industrious; possessing much natural affection, warm-hearted, and
benevolent towards their poorer brethren, plain and unaffect*
cd in their manners, frank and sincere in their intercourse
with others, obliging and neighbourly among themselves. They
are possessed of a due share of the proverbial shrewdness of
the north. Divine ordinances are greatly respected ; the Sab-
bath is devoutly observed ; and there are few parishes in which
the people are so unanimous in their attachment to the national
church. There being, at all times, abundance of employment in
the various departments of industry and good wages, the labouring
classes enjoy a competent share of the comforts of life, and, from
the ample provision made for the wants of the poor, abject pover-
ty may be said to be a stranger to the parish. Like Scotchmen
in general, the parishioners are strongly attached to the place of
their nativity. Not a few of the present generation, who, in their
youth, friendless and penniless, left the parish to push their way
in the world, have realized handsome fortunes.
In consequence of the fluctuations to which his calling is liable,
it is impossible to calculate precisely a flsherman's annual gains ;
but judging from personal observation, and the best information,
the writer has no hesitation in stating it as his decided conviction,
that there are comparatively few of the working classes in Scot-
land, whose labours are so amply remunerated, as those of the
fishermen on this coast ; and that with ordinary economy, every
CULLEN. x331
family among them may enjoy in abundance the comforts of life.
The almost invariable.] habit which prevails, of intermarrying
with those of their own craft, and the no less general practice
which obtains, of every fisherman's son following his father's oc«
cupation, prove very serious drawbacks to the progress of this or-
der of the community in the march of improvement ; having the
effect of rendering them a distinct class of society, with senti-
ments, sympathies, and habits peculiar to themselves. Until some
amalgamation shall take place between them and their brethren
of terra Jtrma^ their advancement in the improvements of civilized
life must necessarily be slow and partial.
Habits and Amu8ement8.^'^\ieTe is no marked peculiarity in
the habits of the people, as regards language, dress, or mode
of living. The names more peculiar to the parish, and of old-
est standing are, Anderson, Coul, Davidson, Finluy, Forsyth,
Gardiner, Hay, Ogilvie, Runcie, Simpson, Strahan, and Wright.
In consequence of the frequent identity of Christian and surnames
among the fishing population, caused by intermarriages, certain
extra names are used to distinguish individuals. Thus, there are
several heads of families of the respective names of Alexander Ad-
dison, James Addison, and William Addbon, who are thus dis-
tinguished, viz. Alexander Addison, Saunders ; Alexander Addi-
son, Kitit^s Saunie ; Alexander Addison, Drodlie ; James Addi-
son, Kittys Jamesy ; James Addison, Tatiejiddler ; James Addi-
son, Bubhlie ; William Addison, Sheepie ; William Addison, Boatie*
row ; William Addison, Calkinapin ; William Addison, May's
fVUsie. Snuffing and smoking are almost universal among the la-
bouring classes. Smuggling, which at one time[^prevailed so exten-
sively in the district, owing to the facilities which its proximity
to the sea afforded for the traffic in foreign contraband goods, is
now altogether unknown ; and from the vigilance exercised for
the preservation of game, poaching may be considered asjn a great
measure impracticable.
In former times, at Halloween, Christmas, and 'other holidays,
when our manufactories were in their most flourishing state, the
younger part of the community resorted to the sands and links of
the bay of CuUen, for the purpose of playing foot-ball, running
foot races, throwing the hammer, playing bowls, &c. They left
the town in procession, pieceded by a piper and other music, and
were attended by numbers from the adjacent districts. The games
332 BANPPSHIRK.
were keeuly coiitested, and the victor was crowned by a bonnet
adorned with feathers and ribbons, previously pre|)ared by the
ladies. When the games were over, the whole parties had a
dance on the green, with that meriment and glee, to which the
etiquette and formation of the ball-room at the present day are to-
tal strangers. Thereafter, the procession was again formed, and
returned to the town, the victor preceded by the music, leading
the way. A ball took place in the evening, at which he presided,
and, moreover, had the privilege of wearing his bonnet and feathers.
The bowls were played by rolling or throwing a cannon ball, and
lie who could with fewest strokes put it beyond a mark at the far-
ther end of the liuks, was declared the victor. But a man having
on one occasion been accidentally killed by the ball, this athletic
game was forbidden by the magistrates, and has never since been
revived. Now-a-days, the parishioners are in the occasional ha-
bit of amusing themselves with the games of golf, shinty, foot-ball,
and target-shooting, for which the links of Cullen afford excel-
lent play-ground. Christmas and New-year's day, O. S., are uni-
versally observed by the labouring classes ; on which occasions,
there is an entire cessation from business, all appearing in holiday
dress, and every muckle pat containing something extra. The
ancient festivities of harvest-home, halloween, and brose-day
are still kept up in the parish. The people of Cullen have bng
been noted for their musical talents, and continue to sustain their
character in this respect The average weekly delivery of newspa-
pers, from the post-office, to the inhabitants of Cullen proper, is
120 ; besides which, a variety of magazines and periodicals are
regularly received*
IV. — Industry.
Agriculture. — The whole extent of the parish, (exclusive of the
ground occupied by the sites of the New town and Sea town,
amounting in all to 34 acres), is about 650 imperial acres, of which
1 15 are waste pasturage and moor. Of the remaining 535 acres,
110 form part of the extensive park of Cullen House, 200
arable are let to the inhabitants of Cullen, and 225, also arable,
are rented by the occupiers of the farms of Seafield, Tochieneal,
and Shirrals, which extend into the adjoining parishes of Fordyce
and Rathven. The waste ground and pasturage consist partly of
steep rocky pasture, along tlie sea-shore, not susceptible of culti-
vation, and forming part of a sheep range, (held by the tenant of
Seafield), which is connected with similar pasture in the parish of
CULLRN. 333
Fordyce. The moorish waste ground, also on the farm of Seafield,
is thin and rocky, standing high and exposed to the cold north
winds. Little or none of it could be converted into arable land,
unless at an expense which would render the undertaking unpro*
fi table.
Of the ground included in the Cullen House Park, about 30
acres are under wood, the greater part of which was planted with-
in the last thirty years by the present Earl of Seafield. These
plantations consist chiefly of oak, ash, beech, elm, plane, maple,
birch, lime, horse-chestnut, sweet chestnut, mountain-ash, and
larch ; and, with the exception of a small part exposed to the
northern blasts, are all thriving with a luxuriance, which is not ex-
ceeded by any plantations in the north of Scotland, or perhaps in
the island. Many of the elms planted about 100 years ago have
attained the height of 97 feet, and measure from 10 to 12 feet in
circumference, at 10 feet from the ground. Among the forest
trees are interpersed a great variety of ornamental shrubs, which
appear in great beauty. Many of the trees of older date are of
large size, and contrast finely with those recently planted. An
siged elm, overhanging a rocky bank of the water of Cullen above
Cullen House, measures 16 feet in circumference, at 12 feet from
the ground, and standing alone with wide spreading boughs, forms
a beautiful feature in the landscape. Several ash trees in the park
measure from 8 to 12 feet in circumference, at 12 feet from the
ground, and have attained a height of 100 feet. Some of the old
larch and lime trees are also of great size and beauty ; and there
is a cedar which has attained a growth, believed to be uncommon
in the north of Scotland, measuring 6 feet in circumference, at 16
feet from the ground. As the plantations about Cullen House
have been laid out chiefly for ornament and shelter, they are per-r
haps not so much thinned and pruned as might be proper, were
the increase of the value of the timber the sole object in view«
That part of the Cullen House Park not under wood, is, for the
.most part, kept in pasture, and produces grass of the richest quali-
.ty ; the soil being uncommonly fine, and having all been in cul-
tivation from time immemorial, before being added to the park.
The arable lands let to the inhabitants of Cullen are laid ofi' in
small lots. Few persons are in possession of more than what is
requisite for the keep of a cow. The rents of these lots vary from
L.1, ds. 9d. to L.3, 1 Is. 4d. per imperial acre. Of the whole
arable land let in the parish, the average rent is L. I, 16s. per im-
334 BANFFSHIRE.
perial acre. The rents of the small lots', occupied by the town's
people, are higher than could be obtained for land in a different
locality, and let in farms ; but land such as that in this parish
would be valuable in any situation, being for the most part
a rich deep loam of fine quality, a description which, with slight
exceptions, is applicable to the other arable lands of the parish.
In the more elevated parts, the soil is incumbent on gravel. Here
it is comparatively thin, but sharp and productive. The greater
part, however, has a subsoil of clay, which, in some places, renders
the land wet, where the evil has not been remedied by drainage*
A small portion of the arable land towards the south end of the
parish, occupied by the town's people, is a poor stiff clay soil ;
and part of the farm of Seafield, on the high grounds adjoining the
moor, chiefly ground which has been reclaimed from waste, is ex-
tremely light and thin. But, witu ibese exceptions, the arable
land of the parish is of very superior'^quality, and the climate be*
ing good, it produces abundant crops of wheat, barley, oats, pota-
toes, and turnips ; and it is particularly noted for yielding fine
grass. The large quantity of fish offals, procured as manure from
the fishing village of Cullen, and the other fishing stations in the
neighbourhood, tends much to the fertility of this and ^veral ad-
joining parishes. The inhabitants of Cullen generally follow a
short rotation of crops, with a view to having a considerable por-
tion of their lands in green crops, for the keep of their cows. On
the farms five and six shifl; courses are the rotations adopted.
The only cattle kept by the town's people are cows. These
are, for the most part, of the common breed of Banffshire, and
are selected chiefly with a view to their qualities as milchers. The
breed of cattle on the farms is a cross between the Banffshire
and Teeswater breeds. This cross was introduced into the pa-
rish about thirteen years ago, and has been attended with advan-
tage to the farmers, more particularly of late years, since the ship-
ping of ciittle from the neighbouring port of Banff, for London
and other places in the south, has given encouragement for high
feeding ; these crosses being found to take on fat more quickly, and
to arrive earlier at maturity than the old breed of the county, al-
though not so well fitted for the former state of the markets, when
the cattle were sold to drovers, and had to perform a long over-
land journey to the southern fairs. The sheep kept on the pasture
of Seafield farm are of the Cheviot breed, but the range for them
is considered too small, to admit of their being turned to great ad-
CULLEN. 335
vantage. They are, however, the only description of stock suit-
able for the ground, its steepness rendering it in many places un-
safe for cattle. The practice of feeding oflf sheep on turnips, has
not yet been introduced into the parish.
No leases are given on the lands occupied by the town's people.
The farms are let for a period of nineteen years, being the ordi-
nary duration of leases on the Seafield estate. The only farm-
buildings situated within the parish are those at Seafield. They
are of a commodious and substantial description, and comprehend
a thrashing-mill of iive-horse power, wrought by steam, — the only
thrashing-machine of the kind in the county. There are few per-
manent enclosures in. the parish ; but a considerable proportion of
the grass lands on the farms is generally enclosed with wooden
palings, which are obtained at a moderate cost, from the Earl of
Seafield's extensive plantations in the immediate neighbourhood.
The ordinary ploughs used in the parish are iron ones, of a good
construction, made by the tradesmen of Cullen. Larger ploughs,
with teams of four horses, are generally used by the farmers, for
giving a deep furrow to land intended for green crop and fallow ;
and Mr Smith's (of Deanston) subsoil plough has been used on
all the farms.
Upon the whole, this parish may be said to be in an advanced
state, as regards agricultural management. Much has been done
to the drainage of the wet lands, in the old mode of draining ; and
of late years, the Deanston system of thorough draining has been
actively commenced. Stones are used where accessible ; and in
the southern part of the parish, where they cannot be procured,
but at a great expense, tiles have been lately introduced. A tile-
work for the manufacture of drain tiles was erected last year, on
the border of the parish, by the tenant of Tochieneal farm, John
Wilson, Esq. This gentleman has also brought from Stirling-
shire, one of Mr M^Ewan's lately invented drain-ploughs, an im-
plement which, with a team of sixteen oxen, has performed the
operation of casting drains for tiles in a very satisfactory manner,
doing great oredit to the ingenious inventor.
BanffMre Farmer Club. — The influence of associations, for the
promotion of the tiiiB and sciences, must be regarded as among
the most efficient means of improvement. It is impossible to con-
template the transactions of the Highland and Agricultural So-
ciety of Scotland, since its formation, and the gigantic strides
.which have been made in the march of rural economy during the
BANFF. Y *
336 BANFFSHIRE.
same period, without awarding to that noble institution, the merit
of those mighty improvements, which have raised our native Scot-
land to so distinguished a rank among the agricultural nations of
the world, notwithstanding the comparatively unpropitious nature
of its climate and soil One, and perhaps the most important, of
the benefits, resulting from the exertions of the above society, has
been, the formation of local Associations throughout the country,
by which means, every improvement in husbandry may be said to
be brought to the door of the humblest individual.
So far back as 1730, an Agricultural Association was formed in
Banffshire, under the designation of "a Small Society of Farmers
in Buchan,'' in which district, those parts of Banffshire, which are
upon the south side of the river Deveron, have been generally in-
cluded. Notwithstanding the modesty of its title, it was composed
wholly of landed proprietors, several of whom belonged to the
southern counties of Scotland. Although it is now scarce possible
to ascertain the beneficial influence of this Society, upon the ge-
neral state of the agriculture of the county, yet we may fairly pre-
sume, that it bad the effect of directing the attention of the noble-
men and gentlemen of the district, to the concerns of husbandry,
which had hitherto been accounted beneath the notice of people of
fashion.
In 1785, the proprietors and farmers of the county formed an
Association, under the title of ^^ the Banffshire Farming Society."
Excellent rules were framed and printed, for conducting the busi-
ness, and prosecuting the objects of the institution ; but they seem
to have rested in good intention only. Politics usurped the place
of the plough, and the meetings of the society became thinly at-
tended. Those who continued their attendance, deemed it unfair^
that they should bear both the expense and trouble of the busi-
ness ; and, by a natural course of events, the funds were debited
with the tavern bills. The consequence was, that the meetings
of the Society dwindled into a kind of lounge for a few of the
members, whose situation allowed them, without inconvenience,
to attend. In this state of matters, a meeting was at' last formed,
for the purpose of investing the whole of the funds, which then
amounted to a considerable sum, for carrying on a section of the
turnpike county road ; which proposition was adopted, but not
without a keen opposition.
In 1821, an Agricultural Association was formed, under the
name of '^ the BanSishire Farmer Club." This institution has hre^
CULLEN, 337.
very differently from its predecessor, having, under judicious ma-
nagement, been productive of the most beneficial results, in awak-
ening a laudable spirit of enterprize and emulation among the
agriculturists of the lower district of the county, who may bear
a comparison with any of their brethren in Scotland, for skill and
success in the several departments of husbandry. There are two
ordinary meetings of the club in the course of the year, which are
held at CuUen, on the first Tuesdays of March and November.
On these occasions, the members dine together in an elegant hall,
provided for them by the liberality of the Right Honourable the
Earl of Seafield, and, on the removal of the cloth, proceed to the
discussion of some subject connected with agriculture, of which
previous notice has been given, each member being expected to
aSbrd to those present, the benefit of his practical knowledge, as
it may ha|^pen to bear upon the question for the day. An ex-
traordinary meeting of*the club is held annually at Cornhill, on
the first Tuesday of August, for a competition show of horses and
cattle, on which occasion, the sum of from L.25 to L.dO of the
funds of the association, is expended in premiums to the successful
competitors. The interest excited by the important object of
this meeting, has the effect of securing a numerous attendance of
local proprietors and tenants, and of agriculturists from the adja-
cent districts. The quality of the stock exhibited is invariably
such as to do the greatest credit to the exhibitors, and to main-
tain the high character which the county has so long held, for the
successful prosecution of this important branch of husbandry.
Ploughing matches and seed shows are occasionally held, under
the patronage of the club ; and it deserves to be mentioned, that,
to this association, the lower district of the county has been mainly
indebted for the services of a veterinary surgeon, — a liberal salary
having been for many years paid, from the funds, for the encou-
ragement of a resident practitioner of this important department
of the healing art. The club is composed almost exclusively of
landed proprietors, and practical farmers, and consists at present
of eighty-three members, of whom twenty are honorary. Each
^ member contributes one guinea annually to the funds. Attached
to the club, is a library for the use of the members, containing
100 volumes, on subjects more immediately connected with agri-
culture.
Fisheries.— AM the different kinds of white and shell fish, com-
mon to Scotland, are to be found in abundance on the coast, and
338 BANFFSHIRE.
fishing, OQ an extensive scale, has long been prosecuted by the
inhabitants. About one-third of the whole population are directly
dependent upon the produce of the sea, for their subsistence.
There are seven first class boats employed in the deep sea fishery*
each having an equipment of from eight to nine able-bodied men.
The following is the routine of the Cullen fisherman's employ-
ment throughout the year. The deep sea white-fishery, which is
chiefly for cod, skate, and ling, commences in February, and con-
tinues to the end of May. In the prosecution of this department
of their calling, the fishermen usually resort to the distance of
from twenty to sixty miles from land, and remain at sea for days
and nights together, in the event of the weather proving favour-
able. On the return of the boats to shore, the operation of cur-
ing the fish immediately commences ; the process of drying them,
occupying a period of three or four weeks. The month of June
is chiefly employed in fishing for haddocks, which are cured into
speldings. From the end of June, the fishermen are exclusively
occupied in preparing for the herring-fishery, which commences
about the 10th July, and continues for seven weeks, ending about
the beginning of September. At the conclusion of the herring-
fishery, the fishermen repair to the south for the disposal of their
stock of dried fish, and in general find a ready market. From
their return about the end of September, to the commencement
of the deep sea fishery in Februaiy, they betake themselves to
the haddock-fishery, which is generally prosecuted in ski£& or
yawls, with four men to each, at the distance of from one to six
miles from shore. With the exception of the small quantity that
is sold fresh, chiefly to the inhabitants of the parish, the fish
caught at this season are cured into yellow haddocks, by the pro-
cess of smoking. The bait commonly used in the prosecution of
the white-fishery is mussel, which is imported by the fishermen
in their large boats, from the shores of Inverness, Cromarty, Ross,
and Sutherland. The crews provide themselves annually with
two or three cargoes each, at a cost of L.'2, 10s. per boat load of
nine tons.
Herring-Fishery. — From the introduction of the herring* fishery
into the Moray Frith in 1816, to 1837, the business was vigo-
rously and successfully prosecuted at Cullen, by the native fisher-
men. The seasons of 1834 and 1836 having proved unfavour-
able, the fishermen became discouraged, and perceiving that their
b|;ethren, at the other stations on the coast, were reaping abun-
CULLEN.
339
dant harvests^ while they were toiling from year to year, without
adequate remuneration, they almost all to a man engaged them«
selves to the curers at Wick, Macduff, Fraserburgh, and Peter-
head^ to which places they continue to resort annqally. The
average number of boats belonging to Cullen is thirty, each hav-
ing a crew of four men, of whom, in general, two are the owners,
the others being hired for the season. The ordinary terms on
which the curers engage the boats, are lis. per cran of herrings,
to. the amount of 200 crans, besides certain allowances in name
of bounty, drink money, &c, which may amount to L.20 per
boat. The following is an abstract of the quantity of white-her-
rings, cod, and ling, cured at Cullen, from 1827 to 1841, inclusive.
No. of barrels of No. of cwts. of cod
Tear. he
1827,
1828,
1829,
isao,
1831,
1882,
ias8,
1834,
1835,
1836,
1837,
1838,
1839,
1840.
1841,
Total, 33,272 3,725
Salmon^ Fishery. — For several years past, a salmon-fishery has
been prosecuted in the bay of Cullen, with very considerable suc-
cess. The parishioners are supplied, on moderate terms, with this
delicious article of food ; but the bulk of the fish taken is sent
to the London market. The bag-net is that e?(clusively used.
The Messrs Hogarth of Aberdeen are the tacksmen of the fishery.
Haw Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce of
the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : —
Agrietdturah —
rroduce of grain of all kinds, . , L.I 330
potatoes and turnips, 440
ba^ and land in pasture, including pasture
in tbe park of Cullen House, 900
gardens, .... 850
mgs cured.
and ling cured
5,369
124
2,468
104
1,254
548
5,093J
324
5.5831
1 ■ • ••••
4.428
324
2,527
455
945
443
2,491
188
1,608
260
302
189
78
149
547
290
502
159
76
168
Fisheries. —
Cod, ling, skate, fee. 6 l>oats, at L.80 each,
Haddocks, 9 do. 100
Herrings, 30 do. 1 30 crans each , =
crans, at lis., .
L.3020
L.480
900
>3900
2145
L.ar2.5 L.3020
d40 BANFFSHIRE.
Brought over, L.d525 L.d020
Oil, . . . . 118
OfiaU, . 10
Dunghills, , 120
SAlmon-fishery, . . 750 •
4528
Total amount of value of raw produce, . L.754d
Manufactures, — Atoneperiod, manufactures were carried on in
this parish, to a considerable extent. The patriotic Earl of Find-
later and Seafieldi (see Eminent CharactersJ^ to whom Banffshire
has been so largely indebted for his beneficent exertions in the
cause of improvements, introduced this branch of industry in 1748.
His Lordship then presided at the Board of Trustees for Manu-
factures at Edinburgh — an office which afforded him peculiar fa-
cilities for the establishment of manufactures at Cullen ; and, ac-
cordingly, under his fostering care, the measure was attended with
entire success. The writer of the last Statistical Account of the
parish states, " There are in this small place, 65 looms constant-
ly employed in weaving linen, some few of them in weaving da-
mask. The manufacturers also give out a great number of webs,
to be woven by country weavers in their own shops. There are
also seven stocking-looms constantly employed." Of Cullen, as re-
gards manufactures, it may now be truly said, ^' non sum qualis
eram ;" the business as a staple article of trade having altogether
vanished.
Harbour and Navigatioiu — In 1817, a small but substantial
harbour was erected by the Earl of Seafield ; and, in 1834, it was
greatly enlarged and improved, by the erection of an additional
quay, which has rendered it one of the best harbours in the Mo-
ray Frith. From first to last, the work has cost his Lordship up*
wards of L. 10,000. There is a depth of 8^ feet water at the pier's
head at neap tides, and of 12 feet at spring tides. There are 4
vessels belonging to the port, of from 40 to 100 tons burthen
each — amounting in all to 270 tons. The harbour-dues are 2d.
per ton, and yield an annual revenue of L.70. The principal im-
ports are, coals, salt, staves, and barley (for distillation). The
chief exports are, herrings, dried fish, timber, oats, and potatoes.
Boat' Building f Sfc, — Boat-building is carried on to a conside-
rable extent in the parish, the abundance of timber grown in the
immediate vicinity, affording ample facilities for the prosecution of
this branch of industry. The average number of boats built in
the course of the year, may be computed at 44, viz. boats of the
first cliiss, intended for the deep sea and herring-fishery, 36;
6
CULLEN. ^ 341
skiffs or yawls, 8. There are three master builders, and the bu-
siness affords employment to 22 individuals. Ship-building, to a
small extentf is occasionally carried on. In the course of the last
three years, five vessels, of from 40 to 110 tons each, and of su-
perior construction, have been built and equipped at the harbour
of Cullen.
Distillery. — In 1824, a distillery was erected at Tochieneal,
and received a very considerable enlargement in 1828w Average
annual quantity of spirits distilled from malt for the last five years,
25,292 gallons at proof: annual average duty paid for spirits and
malt for the same period, L.5188, Ids. 3d. The work gives em-
ployment to 12 persons, including two officers of excise.
Mills. — There are three mills on the water of Cullen, viz. a lint-
mill, a circular saw-mill, and a meal-mill ; at the last of which,
about 2500 bolls of grain (oats and barley) are annually ground.
On the Seafield estate, the ancie.nt law of astriction is abolished,
the tenants being at liberty to have their grain milled where they-
please.
Wages and Prices. — A male farm-servant usually receives from
L.5 to L.7, 10s. half yearly, exclusive of lodging and maintenance.
The wages of female domestics for the same period are from L.2
to Lb2, 15s. Herd-boys are hired at the rate of from L.1, 5s. to
Li2 for the season of six months, with maintenance. Day4abour-
ers earn Is. lOd. per day in summer, and Is. 5d* in winter, with*
out victuals. Harvest fees are, for a man, L.2, 5s. ; and for a
female reaper, L.1, 10s., with maintenance. The following are
the ordinary weekly wages of journeymen tradesmen : Black-
smiths, 10s. 6d;; masons, 15s.; shoemakers, 9s.; tailors, 10s.;
square-wrights, lis.; cart-wrights, lis.; boat-builders, 12s.;
sawyers, 15s.; saddlers, 12s.; bakers, 10s.; slaters, lOs. ; garde-
ners, 9s.; coopers, 12s.; plasterers, 153.6d. Carters charge 6d.
per hour for the use of a one-horse cart.
The following are the current prices of the under-mentione
articles: An iron plough, fully mounted, L.d» 10s. to L.3, 15s.;
a wooden plough, do., L.3 to L.3, 5s. ; a cart, with wheels, L.6,
12s«; a pair of harrows, with tines, L.2; fanners, L.3, 10s.; tur-
nip-sower, L.1, 15s. to L.2; drill-plough, L.2, 5s. to L.2, 10s.;
scuffle-harrow, L.1, 16s. ; a saddle, L.4 to L.5 ; a first class fish-
ing boat of eleven tons burthen, L32, and when fully equipped
for the deep sea fishery, L.75 ; a boat fully equipped for the her •
ring-fishery, L.r20; a skiff or yawl, L.10, 5s. 6d. ; a pair of men's
342 BANFFSHIRE.
fthoesy 10s. 6d. ; tailor's charge for making a coat, 7s.y a vest, 2s.
6il., trowsers, 2s. 6cl. ; butter, from 8d. to 9d. per pound ; eggs,
5d. per dozen ; sweet milk, dd. per Scotch pint, or |d. per Eng-
lish pint; haddocks. Is. per dozen; lobsters, 6d. each; a good
sized cod, 6d. ; ditto turbot. Is. 6d. ; beef, 6d. per pound ; mutoiated Secretary of State.
1678. George Leslie. 1703. Patrick Ogilvie.
Members of the British and Imperial Parliaments, — At the
union with England, 13th June 1707, the burghs of Elgin, Banff,
Cullen, Inverury, and Kintore, sent one member to the British
Parliament: and since 2d February 1801, (the union with Ire-
land), till dd December 1832, when the Parliament was dissolved
after the passing of the Reform Bill, one member to the Imperial
Parliament. By the Reform Act of 1832, the town of Peterhead
was associated with this district of bui^hs in sending one niember
to the Imperial Parliament. The following is a list of the Mem-
bers of the British and Imperial Parliaments for the above burghs :
1. The Honourable Patrick Ogilvie of Loanmay, 26th May 1708,
2. Alexander Reid.Esq., 27th October 1710.
- 3. The Hon. James Murray, 17th September 1713.
i. The Hon. James Murray, 5th April 17 Mr.
5. The Hon. James Murray, 19th February 1715.
6. The Hon. M. £. William Fraser, elected 3d April 1722, unseated by the
House of Commons, 23d January 1724, and John Campbell, Esq.
declared duly elected.
7. William Stuart, Esq., 9th September 1727.
8. Patrick Campbell, Esq., 16th March 1728.
CULLEN. 343
9. The Hon. WiUiam Stuart» 18th May 1734.
10. Sir James Grant of Grants Bart., 28th May 1741.
1 1. The Right Hon. William Grant of Preston Gran^, Esq., 18th Febru-
ary 1746.
12. The same, 22d July. 1747.
13. William Grant of Preston Grange, Esq., 9th May 1754.
14. Andrew Mitchell, Esq. of Thamstown, let January 1755.
15. The Hon. Andrew Mitchell of do., 20th April 1761.
16. The Hon. Sir Andrew Mitchell, Kuight or the Bath, 11th April |768.
17. Thomas Lockhart, Esq. Counsellor at Law, Lincoln's Inn, London, 20th
March 1771.
18. Staats Long Morris, Esq. a Colonel of His Majesty's Forces, 31 fit Octo-
ber 1774.
19. MiMor-General Staats Long Morris, 2d October 1780.
20. William Adam, Esq. of Woodstone, 26th April 1784.
21. Alexander Brodie, Esq. of Madras, 12th July 1790.
22. Alexander Brodie, Esq., 20th June 1796.
23> Lieutenant-Colonel Francis William Grant, 2d July 1802.
24. George Skene, Esq. of Skene, 27th November 1806.
25. Archibald Colquhoun, Esq. EUs Majesty's Advocate for Scotland, 30th
May 1807.
26. The Right Hon. William Dundas, 13th July 1810.
27. Archib^d Campbell of Blythswood, Esq., 13th April 1812.
28. Patrick Milne, Esq. of Cromonmogate, 30th October 1812.
29. Robert Grant, Esq- Barrister at Law of Lincoln's Inn, London, llth
July 1818.
30. Archibald Farquharson, Esq. of Fenzean, 3l8t March 1820.
31. Lieutenant-General the Hon. Alexander Duff, Colonel 92d Foot, Sd
July 1826.
32. The same, 23d August 1830.
33. Sir William Gordon Gordon Cumming of Altyre and Gordonstone,
Bart. 23d May 1831.
34 Lieutenant-Colonel Andrew Leith Hay, younger of Rannes, 29th De-
cember 1832.
35. The same, 30th June 1834.
36. The suae, 19th January 1835.
87. The same, 2d May 1835.
38. Sir Andrew Leith Hay, younger of Rannes, Knight, 25th July 1837.
39. Fox Maule, Esq. commonly «adled the Hon. Fox Maule, 13th February
1838.
40. Sir Andrew Leith Hay of Rannes, Knight, Tlh July 1841.
The entire constituency of the six burghs is 838, tiz. Eigin^
219; Banff, 218; CuUen, 38; Inverury, 102; Kin tore, 35;
Peterhead, 226.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish of Cullen originally formed
part of the parish of Fordyce, from which it was disjoined at a very
remote period. The parish church is a fabric of great antiqui-
ty, {Ecclesiastical History and Antiquities)^ and, like many of the
religious edifices of the olden time, bears the form of a cross. Not-
withstanding its extreme age, the walls are still in a sound state,
and seem destined to endure for centuries* The site is highly ro*
mantic, being in the centre of the ancient burying-ground, which
is almost completely environed by the picturesque pleasure-
346 BANFFSHIRE.
grounds of Cullen Hoiisey from which the church is only forfy
yards distant. The interior presents a most venerable appearance*
— its dingy light, antique fittings, and the ancient monuments
which grace its walls, combining to impart to it a very imposing
aspect, and well calculated to aid devotional feeling. The pecu-
liarity of its construction, and the circumstance of never having
been ceiled, render public speaking in it somewhat difficult, and a
very considerable strength of voice is requisite, to enable the
preacher to be generally heard. It was enlarged about forty-four
years ago, by the erection of an additional aisle, which, from the
circumstance of the minister being invisible to the great body of
the hearers, who occupied that portion of the church, by reason of
the awkward situation of the pulpit, was commonly denominated
** the believers' loft," — a title which is no longer applicable, the
evil having been remedied by changing the situation of the pul-
pit. The church is situated close to the western boundary of Cul-
len proper. It is somewhat about a mile equidistant from the
northern, eastern, and southern extremities of the parish, and
three miles from the most remote boundary of the annexation.
Since the removal of the old town of Cullen, in the centre of
which it stood, its situation has become not a little inconvenient
for the parishioners, being nearly a mile distant from the New
town and Sea town, where nine-tenths of the population are loca-
ted. It is seated for 800, allowing eighteen inches to each per-
son. The sittings are all free and undivided, — the parishioners
being at liberty more gregis to accommodate themselves wherever
they please. In summer, the whole of the sittings are fully occu-
pied, and in winter, the attendance is one-third less. The ave-
rage number of communicants is 640, and of male heads of fami-
lies in full communion with the church, 220. There is no regular
Dissenting place of worship, either in Cullen proper, or in the an-
nexation. In the former, the entire number of Dissenters may be
computed at 26 souls, viz. Episcopalians, 5 ; Wesleyan Metho-
dists, 7; Independents, 2; Roman Catholics, 12. With the
above exceptions, the whole of the parishioners of Cullen proper
professedly belong to the Established Church. The greater part
of the Dissenters give occasional attendance at the parish church,
and the members of the Methodist communion are in the habit
of receiving sealing ordinances, at the hands of the parish minis-
ter. There are, usually, four extraordinary church collections du-
CULLBN. d47
ring the year, for religious and charitable purposes, of which the
average amount is L. 20.
A handsome manse and suitable set of offices were erected in
1830. The glebe measures about five Scotch acres, and is of ex-
cellent arable land, of the annual value of L. 4, 10s. per acre.
The stipend consists of the following items: L. 109, 12s. 5d. ;
barley, 3 quarters, 5 bushels, 2 pecks, 1 ^ % lippies ; meal, 7 bolls,
3 firlots, 3 pecks, ] lippie ; L.3» 6s. 8d. paid from the funds of
the burgh : L. 36, 8s. 4d. added by the Exchequer.^ In addition
to the above, the minister receives L.8, 6s. 8d for supplying com-
munion elements, L. 5 in lieu of a grass glebe, and L.8, 6s. 8d.
as remuneration for right to peat-moss surrendered.
The Right Honourable the Earl of Seafield is patron and sole
heritor.
Ministers of Culleru — The following is a list of the ministers
of the parish of CuUen from 1640 to the present time.
1. Aleiander Seaton wai miaister in • 1640
2. William Burnett, . admitted 6th December 1608
a. Robert Farqubar, do. 15th January 1682
4. John Gumming, kite Dean of Moray, do. 24th May I68S
5. James Chalmers, do. 8th May 16R9
r Robert Teat, . . do. 1697
6. < The charge was vacant for five years, via. from 1700
i to 1705.
m I Alevander Irvine, do. 7th August 1705
I Translated to Fordyoe, October 1716.
8. James Lawtie, . . . do. 19th March 1717
Q C James Anderson, translated from Boindie, do. 12th December 1751
* { Translated from Cullen to KeiUi, 1762.
10. Robert Grant, translated from Rothes, do. 24th September 1762
II i George Innes, do. 1st December 1808
I Translated to Deskford, 6th August 1829,
12. George Henderson, do. 25th September 1829
Seafield Church, — An additional Church, bearing the above title,
(in compliment to the noble family of Seafield, to whose munifi-
cence the erection was mainly owing,) was erected in 1838-39, in
the quoad sacra district of the parish, under the impulse of the
General Assembly's Church Extension movement. The entire
cost of the erection has been L.668; and it is satisfactory to state
that it is altogether free of debt. The population of the district for
whose accommodation the church is specially designed is upwards
of 900; number of sittings, 450 ; annual seat rent, from Is. to 3s.
6d., the average being 2s. ; annual amount of seat rents, about L#.40;
* My predecessor informs mc, that, during'^the earlier part of his incumbency, old
people used to tell bim of bis predecessor, Mr Robert Grant, drawing the small tithes
on the other side of the water of Cullen, as Brunton and the annexed parts.— G. H.
348 BANFFSHIRE.
of ordinary church collections, L. 29. The collections, by consent
of Lord SeaGeld, go to the benefit of the chapel funds, until the debt
is liquidated, subject to a deduction of an annual payment to the
parochial funds for behoof of the poor, to make up the deficiency
in the latter caused by the new erection. Since the church was
opened, 16th October 1839, divine service has been performed in it
every Lord's day by the minister of Cullen, aided occasionally by
the members of presbytery, and the resident probationers ; and
there is a iair prospect of soon procuring the services of a stated
pastor for the charge.
Edtication. — The parish is abundantly supplied with the means
of education, there being ahogether in Cullen proper, sewn 8chools»
of which four are endowed. The salary of the parochial teacher,
which is the medium, aided by an old bequest, is L.36 ; the aver-
age yearly amount of school fees is L. 40 ; and, as the school en-
joys the benefit of the Dick bequest, his official emoluments may
be estimated at upwards of L. 100 per annum. The parochial
school-house is suitable and commodious; and the teacher is pro-
vided with an excellent dwelling-house and garden. The average
daily attendance of scholars throughout the year, is 78.
A boarding and day school, for the instruction of young ladies
in the plain and ornamental branches of education, is under the
direction of an accomplished teacher ; the branches taught and
terms charged, being the same with those in similar provincial esta-
blishments. The teacher is accommodated with an excellent dwel-
ling-house and small garden, rent free, provided by the Earl of
Seafield ; and in addition to the fees, she receives a salary of fifteen
guineas, of which his Lordship contributes ten, and the town-coun-
cil five.
An infant school, patronised and endowed by the noble family
of Seafield, was instituted in 1839. It is efficiently taught by a
female, and is usually attended by from 70 to 80 scholars, from
the age of two and a-half to that of seven years. The school fee
is one penny per week, in addition to which, the teacher receives
a salary of fourteen guineas, and is, moreover, provided with a free
school-room and dwelling-house.
An unendowed school, for the ordinary branches of education,
has, for many years, been successfully taught by the individu-
al who holds the office of session-clerk, at which the average daily
attendance is in summer 60, and in winter 120 — the latter includ-
CULLEN. 349
ingan evening class, for the instruction of farm-servants and young
tradesmen.
In addition to the above, there are three schools, (one of which
has an endowment of a salary of L.5, the joint gift of the Earl of
Seafield and the town-council of Cullen,) taught by dames, and
attended by children from three to ten years of age, who are in-
structed in reading, knitting, and sewing. These humble semi-
naries are of much consequence to the labouring classes, and are
highly deserving of encouragement, were it for nothing more, than
their utility in relieving mothers of much trouble during the day,
and keeping their children out of harm's way.
The people in general are fully alive to the advantages of edu-
cation, as is apparent from the feet, that the average daily attend-
ance of scholars throughout the year is 330, or upwards of one-
fifth of the whole population. There is no portion of the parish
so distant from school as to prevent regular attendance, and the
circumstances of the parishioners at large are such as enable them,
without difficulty, to pay the school fees. Formerly, education
was much neglected by the fishing population, but a marked change
for the better has happily taken place, and is on the increase. On
the whole, it may be said of this parish, that the interests of edu«-
cation are in fully as prosperous a state, as in any of the provincial
parishes of Scotland.
Sabbath Schools. — Of these there is one in Cullen proper, and
another in the annei;ation, which are under the immediate super-
intendence of the minister, and usually attended by from 200 to
300 scholars. During the greater part of the year, the minister
teaches two Bible classes weekly, which are well attended. They
are designed for the benefit of adults of both sexes, whether single
or married, of young persons who have left the juvenile Sabbath
schools, and of all who propose to offer themselves for admission
to the ordinance of the Lord's Supper.
Bursaries. — In 1675, Mr John Lorimer, town -clerk of Cullen,
bequeathed a croft of land, containing about one and a- half Scotch
acres, with the buildings upon it, for the education of a boy at the
school of Cullen, of his own name, or related to him, and appointed
the town-council and kirk-session of Cullen, joint patrons of the
bursary. In consequence of the removal of the old town of Cul-
len, the bursary land is now within the precincts of the Cullen
House policy, and is held in tack by the Earl of Seafield, who
pays an annual rent of 5 qrs. 3 bushels, 3 pecks, 1} lippies, bear.
3^0 BANFFSHIRK.
coDvertible into nioDey at the cotety fiars price. Oo a recent ap-
plication by the Noble Earl to the patrons, the latter agreed to an
excambion of the bursary land, which is now in course of being
made. In 1764, Mr William Lorimer of St James's Parish, Lon-
don, grandnephew of the aforesaid Mr' John Lorimer, out of gra-
titude for the benefit of his own education, upon his granduncle's
foundation, bequeathed a sum of money suflScient to yield L.1
yearly, to provide books for his granduncle's bursar, and also 10s.
yearly, to the schoolmaster of Cullen, for his attention to said
bursar. The benefit of this bursary continues for the space of
five years.
The aforesaid Mr William Lorimer was also the founder of a
separate bursary, having, in 1764, bequeathed the sum of L.200
for the education of his granduncle's bursar, if found qualified,
and the relations of his mother, alternatelvy at the High School
of Aberdeen, for one year, and, thereafter, at Marischal College,
for four years. The foundation is under the management of the
Magistrates and Town-Council of Aberdeen, the Principal and
Professors of Marischal College, and the Magistrates and Minister
of Cullen. In consequence of the lack of candidates for this bur«
sary since its foundation, the funds have accumulated to such an
amount, as to admit of the simultaneous education of two bursars,
and yielding the annual sum of L.12 to each.
In 1721, Mr John Watson, Merchant in Edinburgh, a native
of the parish of Cullen, bequeathed 2000 merks Scotch, for assisting
in the education of a boy at the school of Cullen, related to him
by father or mother,-— the nearest of kin to be preferred. The
patronage of the bursary is vested in the kirk-session of Cullen.
The sum originally mortified ^fields L.2, 2s. per annum to the
bursar, who enjoys the benefit for the period of four years. The
same benevolent individual founded similar bursaries at the schools
of Banff* and Fordyce.
The above bequests, under judicious management, have proved
most beneficial to the founders' relations, and have been the means
of raising many a destitute youth to opulence and respectability.
Parochial Library. — In 1830, a parochial library was established.
It consists of a well-selected assortment of works, in the several
departments of literature and science.
Friendly iSocte^'e^.-— Formerly, the following friendly Societies
existed in the parish, viz. Innocent's Lodge of Free Masons, in-
stituted 1808; Linen Society, instituted 1792; Wrights' Society,
CULLRN. 351
transferred from Banff) 1806. The above Societies were instituted
for the purpose of relieving sick and indigent brethren, their wi-
dows and children. They were all dissolved in 1832, in conse*
quence of an Act of Parliament passed, or about to be passed, at
that time, respecting the funds of Friendly Societies. The Mason
Lodge was remodelled in 1835. It consists at present of from
60 to 70 members, and has a disposable fund of about L.100.
This Society, previous to its dissolution in 1832, numbered 270
members.
Pocfr and Poof'i Funds. — The average number of persons re-
gularly receiving parochial aid is 87, viz. 71 in CuUen proper,
and 16 in the annexation. The distributions are made quarterly ;
intermediate aid being advanced occasionally, in case of urgent
necessity. The average sum allotted to each person per annum
is, in CuUen proper, 15s. 4^d., and in the annexation, 14s. 3d.
The average annual amount of monies, for the last seven years,
available for behoof of the poor, and under the management of
the kirk-session, is L.76, 14s. lO^d., arising from the following
sources, viz. church collections, L.59, 4s. 6d. ; interest of funds,
L.6, 9s. 4d. ; dues on proclamations of banns, 1^1, 18s. lid.;
hire of mortcloth, L.l, 6s. 9^d. ; mortification, L.2, 2s. ; penalties,
L.5, ISs. 4^d. The average annual expenditure, for the same
period, is L.78, 18s. 8d., viz. quarterly distributions, L.66, 6s. 2^d. ;
occasional aid, L.4, 15s. ; officers' fees, and other expenses,
L.7, 12s. 5id. There never has been an assessment for the sup-
port of the poor ; the voluntary contributions of the community,
together with the items above stated, having hitherto proved suf-
ficient for affording the usual rate of aliment.
Bede-Hause. — There formerly existed in the parish a bede-
house, or hospital, for the maintenance of a limited number of
decayed persons, the origin of which cannot now be precisely de-
termined. It appears to have been founded by the Find later fa-
mily, and its name* marks it as an institution of Popish times.
* Bede, in Saxon, prayer ; bede men^ who joined in (he celebration of masses for
the dead. The writer has gleaned the following traditionary notices regarding the
Bede House of CuUen, which may be relied on as subeuntially correct. The lands
of Upper Pattenbringan and Brunton were morti6ed, for the support of eight de-
cayed farmers, and eight farmers* widows. A house of two storeys was built for
them in CuUen ; eaeh flat divided into eight sleeping apartmenu and a kitchen.
The men occupied the lower, and the women the upper flat. The men had two pecks
of oatmeal, and the women one and a-half ditto each per week. Prom Pattenbring^n
and *Bninton, w^k al)out, they were supplied with milk in summer, and beer In'
BANFF, Z
852 BANFFSHIRE.
About sixty years ago, the hospital system was abolished, and the
funds, which are under the patronage and management of the
Earl of Seafield, are expended in stated and occasional allowances
of meal, to poor families belonging to the parishes of Cullen, Rath-
yen, Deskford, and Fordyce, residenters on the Sea6eld estate;
by which means the charity is rendered more extensively useful.
From the above source, the parish of Cullen derives about 85
bolls annually ; of which, 70 bolls are shared by 40 persons, in
weekly pecks and half pecks ; ten and a-quarter bolls are placed
at the disposal of the kirk-session ; and five bolls are distributed
by the local factor. *
winter. The allowance of milk was the produce of one oow» and undiiaimed ; the
allowance of beer was the produce of two pecks of malt. At Christmas, yearly,
they were furnished from the aforesaid farms, alternately, with a good fat horned
mairt, and salt to salt it. The horns supplied them with spoons, and the hide with
brogues. From Pattenbringan and Brunton, week about, a female seryant was sent
to make the men's beds and clean out their apartments. From the same fanna,
they got what was called leet peals fur fuel, in equal proportions, which were not
only brought to their door, but built up for them ; and if their fuel fell short, Cullen
House was bound to make up the de6ciency. They were annually suppliiHl with
blue top coats, and the old ones were made into vests and breeches. When they
wanted bed-clcthefl, they carried the old to Cullen House, and received new. They
were all obliged, if in health, to attend church every Sabbath, and they sat on fbrma,
in front of the recumbent stone figure within the elegant sarcophagus, in the eastern
aisle of the church. The eight figures, in niches, along the foot of the tomb, are
supposed to represent the bede men. It is said, that, at one period, part of their
duty was to sit at the church doors, with pike staves in their bands, in order to pre-
yent the ingress of dogs. A herald, from Edinburgh, visited the Bcde House half
yearly, when every liede man and bede woman was interrogated separately, if they
had any complaint to make in regard to their domestic comfort, and if so, Cullen
House was immediately applied to for redress.
* The following bequests have been made by persons, natives of, or connected
with, the parish of Cullen. In 1650, John Lawtie, burgess of Cullen, bequeathed
his whole property, consisting of a house, a garden, and a croft of land, lor behoof
of the poor of Cullen, which pays, of yearly renti to the kirk session, L.2, 2s. Id
1657, William Lawtie, of Myre House, bequeathed a croft of land, with some bouses,
and a sum of money, with which were purchased some additional acres of land,
within the parish, for behoof of poor persons related to him, or bearing his name.
The aforesaid bequests are under the patronage and management of the heirs and
representatives of the founders. William Leslie, of Birdsbank, an heritor in the
parish, bequeathed the sum of 1000 merks Scotch, and appointed the interest to be
applied as an encouragement to a schoolmaster in Cullen, under the direction of the
magistrates. This money, by a negotiation of that body, was settled in the hands
of the Earl of Findlater, upon his agreeing to make some addition to it, and he
thereby became patron of the school. A Mr Smith bequeathed a house, a garden,
and a croft of land, and appointed the rents of them an an additional encouragement
\o the schoolmaster of Cullen. Collector John Ogilvie, of the Customs at Inverness
and his ton. Bailie William Ogilvie, Merchant in Banff, bequeathed the sum of L.44,
9s., the interest to be applied, by the kirk-session of Cullen, for behoof of the found-
ers* poor relations, and the poor of the parish, in equal parts. The following be.
quests were made to the kirk-session of Cullen, for behoof of the poor, vis. Mr James
Ogilvie, formerly wadsetter of Logic, Ti.16, Ids. 4d. ; in 1805, Dr Brands, Jamaica,
L.20; in 1824, Miss Janet Grant, daughter of the Rev. Robert Grant, formerly
minister of Cullen, L.20.
6
CULLBN. 353
The Noble family of Seafield distribute annually, in voluntary
charity, forty*one bolls of meal, among twenty indigent and aged
females, residenters in the parish of CuUen ; and, in other respects,
attend to the wants of the poor, with a beneficence and liberality
worthy of their honoured name. There is an annual subscription
among the inhabitants, for the support of a coal fund, from which
the poor are liberally supplied, during the winter months, with
that important article of the necessaries of life.
It thus appears, that the wants of the poor of this parish are
most amply provided for ; in proof of which, it deserves to be
mentioned, that there is scarcely ever such a thing as regular beg-
ging on the part of the inhabitants. The people evince much of
the ancient spirit of independence, in their laudable efforts to
maintain themselves by the labour of honest industry, so long as
the power of doing so remains, and show muck reluctance in ap-
plying for parochial relief.
jBanA^.—* A branch of the Aberdeen Bank was established in
the burgh in 1837. It has experienced very considerable success,
and has proved an important boon to the community of Cullen
and the surrounding districts. A savings^ bank was established in
1816, and has been productive of the most beneficial effects.
The institution is open to the inhabitants of the adjacent parishes.
The following is a statement of its affairs, 1st April 1842 : num-
ber of depositors, 480 ; amount of principal sums due, L.7069,
15s. 7id.: amount of interest due, L.260, 13s. 4$d.; total amount
due to depositors, L.7330, 9s. ; average sum of each deposit,
L.15, 5s. 5id.
Giiir£9.— The following courts are statedly held in Cullen, viz.
Sheriff Small-debt Court, for sums not exceeding L.8| (fs. Sd., on
the second Thursday of February, June, and October ; Justice
of Peace Court, on the first Tuesday of every month, for sums not
exceeding L.5 ; Registration Court, for the enrolment of Parlia-
mentary electors under the Reform Apt, in August annually. The
ordinary meetings of the Reverend the Presbytery of Fordyce are
held at Cullen.
Priiovu — The only place of confinement in the bui^h is a lock-,
up-house, for the purpose of punishing petty delinquents by a short
imprisonment, and to be used, in case of need, for the safe cus-
tody of prisoners on their way to the county jail* It consists of
three apartments or cells of moderate dimensions, vaulted, paved,
lighted, and ventilated.
354 BANFFSHIRR.
Insurance Companies, — There are three branches of Insurance
Companies in the parish, viz. the Scottish Union, the^Aberdeen
Fire and Life, and the North of Scotland.
Fairs and Markets. — Of these, there are three held annually,
viz. Whitsunday .market, on the third Friday of May; Martinmas
market, on the second Friday of November ; St John's fair, on
the 7ih January. They are chiefly for the feeing of servants, and
are well attended. There is a weekly market for the sale of grain
during the spring months, at which business, to a considerable
amount, is occasionally transacted ; and dealers frequenting it are
accommodated with the use of excellent grain lofb, which are let
on moderate terms.
Inns and Alehouses. — There are two inns in the burgh. The
principal inn is a handsome and commodious building, and inferior
to none on the route from Aberdeen to Inverness. The internal
accommodation is such as deservedly to attract the admiration of
strangers, and the posting department is very complete. In the
Seatown, there are three public-houses. There are thus altoge-
ther five public-houses, including the two inns. This number does
not appear to be unreasonably great ; and the magistrates of Cul-
len deserve well of the community, for the laudable exercise of
their discretion, in the granting of licenses to so very moderate an
extent.
GaS'Liffht — A Gas-light Company was formed in 1841, with
a capital of L.1000, in as many shares; and, in November last,
the inhabitants obtained the benefit of this light in great purity
and brilliancy. The gas has already been introduced into eighty
houses, with the prospect of the number being speedily doubled.
The consumpt of gas for six months, from 5th November 1841^
has been 80,000 cubic feet. The charge is I6s. per 1000 cubic
feet.
jPt
immense deposit of red clay and gravel, which forms the whole
extensive table-land lying above Fochabers. ^On the south
edge, along the chasm of the Orchil, this deposit is skirted by
beds of pure white sand, in layers, in some places horizontal,
in others inclined, and again in other places curiously contorted,
over which beds the red gravel looks as if it had been poured, fol-
lowing all their contortions and sinuosities. The sand is discover-
ed by the action of the bum or other causes removing the over-
lapping deposit. Proceeding northward and eastward, the depth
of this red stuff becomes exceedingly great. The Spey has cut
in upon the west side of it, opposite to Orton House, and formed
cliffs of great height, the change of whose colour, from bright red
to dark crimson, is a sure prognostic of rain. The brooks which
drain off the moisture from the table*land have formed many ra-
vines almost perpendicular in the sides, and in many instances
from 50 to 100 feet deep. Nay, it is not uncommon, where a
ditch has been cut, or the surface otherwise removed, to find a
new ravine formed of great depth in the course of one day by the
first heavy rains. Towards the bottom of these ravines, the side&»
noHAUM. 361
before long exposure to the air, are hard and compact, having
much the appearance of breccia traversed by horizontal layers of
soft sandstone. After some exposure, they become soft. The
breccia*like substance is reduced to clay and gravel, and thousand-
stone to sand, ready to be swept away by the next rain. The
bright crimson colour of the torrents poured through these ravines
into the Spey has often attracted observation. They are absolutely
like torrents of blood. On this table-land no springs rise, except
at its edges, to which of course cultivation is confined ; while the
rest of it, except where, planted, for which it is all admirably adapt*
ed, remains a barren waste.*
Further to the east, and forming the north-eastern side of the
lateral valley, are the round hills of Muldeary, the western slope
of which is in this parish composed of the same red clay and gra-
vel ; abounding here, however, both superficially and in the sub-
soil, with large boulders of granite and hornblende. These, in
some places, are so numerous as to cover the surface, and totally
prevent cultivation. They afford building stone of the best quali-
ty, and are extensively used in this way.
Zoology. — Red-deer frequently visit the parish, chiefly in their
passage from the forests of the interior to the coast, or as ma-
rauders from the park of Gordon Castle. Roe-deer are pretty
numerous. Hares are most abundant everywhere, and rabbits on
the river side. Foxes, polecats, weasels, notwithstanding the ex-
ertions of the game-keepers for their destruction, are also nume-
rous. Badgers are not rare. Otters» once very numerous, still
frequent the rocks of the Orchil, and the margin of the river.
A hedgehog, the only one ever seen here, was lately found on
the river bank. Rats are a perfect nuisance, and, of late, the
large grey rat has found its way from the coast. Water-rats, with
round heads and short tails, are numerous, burrowing in embank-
ments and the sides of mill ponds. Hawks of various kinds are
very plentiful, and a few ravens may be seen, which have their
domicile in the rocks of Benagen. Rock pigeons are numerous
in the glen of the Orchil, and wood pigeons in all the plantations.
Rooks visit the parish in large flocks, chiefly from the woods of
Gordon Castle and Balveny. The common crow makes also a
frequent appearance. Owls, both common and horned, are nu-
merous, and there are the usual abundance and variety of smaller
birds. Grouse are plentiful on Benagen and the bounding hlls.
362 UANFFSUIRE.
Partridges are abundant. Black-game is to be found, and wood«
cocks are numerous in the early. part of winter, or end of autumn.
At Arndilly, these have occasionally remained throughout the
year, nestling and bringing out their young. A few plovers,
snipes, and curlews frequent a large moss in the lower end of the
parish, and the few remaining swamps, where also the bittern
has been heard and seen.
'J'here is nothing peculiar in the breeds of the domestic cattle.
The black-cattle are chiefly Highland or Aberdeenshire. The
few sheep are Leicesters, on the arable grounds, and Lintons on
the skirts of the hills. There are no goats. The brooks have
all a good store of common trout. The river here abounds with
salmon in close time, and would naturally abound with them
throughout the year, as it did of old ; but, during the fishing sea-
son, the labours of the fishermen, in the lower part of its course,
are now so indefatigable, and the operation of the cruive dike, si-
tuated just at the lower extremity of the parish, is now so perfect
as a barrier, that comparatively very few fish get up even so far
as the fishing grounds here ; and the fishery rent of the parish,
and of Rothes, has, instead of rising in proportion to the greatly
increased value of the commodity, dwindled to a mere trifle.
When the water is low, even the Sunday's slap is said to be of
little use for the run of the fish, owing to the construction of the
dike, and there is a tolerable supply here only when a flood has
overtopped the dike, or caused a breach in it, and has in some
degree interrupted the fishing below. There is generally, how-
ever, a suflScient number of fish to afibrd excellent sport to the
angler. White or sea-trout, and finnocks, are at certain seasons
very abundant.
Woods. — A noble forest, chiefly planted by operations of various
dates, extends on the estate of Arndilly, to a length of from seven
to eight miles, along the banks of the Fiddich and Spey, and
stretches far back from these streams up on the slopes, and into
the recesses of Benagen. The plantations here consist of Scotch
fir, larch, spruce, and various hard-woods. There is a consider-
able intermixture of natural hard^wood, birch, geen, alder, ash,
mountain-ash, and oak, in the lower parts, near the Spey, and a
considerable breadth of natural Scotch fir, spreading from the
plantations towards the top of the hill. Everywhere, in the valley
of the Spey, and at Arndilly as much as anywhere, the Scotch
BOHARM. SGl]
fir seems to rejoice in the soil and climate, and soon becomes
very valuable, and the spread of it here seems likely, at no distant
date, if the* ground be properly protected from sheep and cattle,
to cover the whole western face of Benagen, even to the summit,
and make it, indeed, a fine object in the scenery of the country.
The larch, here, too, thrives admirably, as indeed does every spe-
cies of wood usually grown in Scotland. There are three beech
trees in the garden of great size. One of them presents a noble
pillar in its stem, 17 feet high from the ground, clear of branches,
and of a uniform circumference of 1 1 feet 8 inches, for the whole
of this height. A sweet chestnut, also in the garden, has a stem
of 13 feet long, and 1*2 feet round. A birch, near the house,
has a circumference of 7 feet, at six feet from the ground.
Further down the river, on the estate of Cairnty, in the angle
between the Orchil and the Spey, natural oak and birch cover a
considerable extent, and the glen of the Orchil, and the lateral
ravines, are thickets of birch. Were this glen inclosed, and
planted with oak, &c, it would, at very little loss to the tenants
of the pasture, soon become of immense value to the proprietor.
Here, too, some plantations of Scotch fir and larch were made
about thirty years ago, along the river, which have of late been
largely augmented, all in the most thriving state.
In the valley of Boharm, there is, in the upper end, a consider-
able quantity of natural birch, alder, mountain-ash, and geen,
among which, the late proprietor intermixed a large quantity of
ash and elm, which have thriven excellently ; and lower down,
Mr Steuart of Auchlunkart has around his mansion-house a
most ornamental plantation, of upwards of eighty Scotch acres of
hard wood, with a proportion of larches and spruces, which are
gradually thinned out. Ash, oak, elm, beech, &c. &c. thrive
here remarkably well, and have already got up to be trees of con-
siderable size, where, only thirty-five years ago, there was little
besides rows of ash and plane-tree round the old garden. Mr Steu-»
art has, however, taken great pains with this plantation, great part
of the ground having been trenched for it, limed, and sown out with
natural grasses. Mr Steuart has also planted, on his hills and moors,
in this parish, to the extent of 300 Scotch acres and upwards, Scotch
fir, and larches, greatly to the ornament of the country. The Scotch
fir here does not thrive so well as on Spey-side, and it is gradually
thinned out lo give room for the larches, which get on admirably.
364 BANFFSHIRE.
Opposite to Auchlunkart, od the Seafield estate^ a large planta-
tion has recently been made out, on the lower end of the Benagen
range, which already shews well. The summits of the Muldeary
hills were planted many years ago with Scotch 6r. They look
well at a distance, but the wood has come to little size, and re-
quires to be filled up with hard-wood and larch.
IL-— Civil History.
The earliest account that the reporter is acquainted with, both
of the parish of Boharm and the suppressed parish of Dundurcos,
is in Shaw's History of the Province of Moray. There are no spe-
cial plans or surveys of the parish. It is possessed by four pro-
prietors, by whose families their respective estates have been held
for several generations. William Grant M^Dowal, Esq. has the up-
per part, consisting of Arndilly, Easter and Wester Gauldwell,
Newton, and Auchmadies, together with the peninsula of Aikenway,
in Rothes, already mentioned, all lying contiguous in a rich, com-
pact, and beautiful estate. Next, downwards, John Duff, Esq. of
Drummuir^ has the farm of Knockan, which unites with his ex-
tensive possessions in Botriphney. Patrick Stewart, Esq., has
the barony of Auchlunkart, in the middle of the parish, and the
Earl of Seafield has the lower end of it, comprising the lands of
Balnabriech, Mulben, Muldeary, Cairnty, and Forgie.
Parochial ReffisterM.^-^The parochial registers commence in
1636, and, except in the times of Charles II. and his successor,
and another break, from 1784 to 1800, the session record is very
full and complete. The registers of baptisms and marriages,
however, are defective before 1800, and there is no register of
deaths.
Antiquities, — A stone, which was in the wall of the old church
at Arndilly, is now built into the wall of one of the wings of the
mansion-house. It has rude figures carved on it As the re-
porter has seen another stone, and has heard of a third, having
very nearly the same figures upon them, the former having been
taken out of the foundation of the old church of Inveravon, and
the latter being built into the wall of the abbey of Deer, he haa
sometimes thought that they may be Druidical memorials, and in-
dicate that our forefathers fixed their first Christian temples on the
sites of Druidical worship.
The Castle of Bucharin, now Galval, is an interesting remain,
situated on a fine eminence between the brook Aldernie and the
Fiddich, having the vale of Balveny stretching out in front ; the
BOHARM. d()5
vale of Boharm to the east ; the lower part of the valley of the
Fiddich to the west; and a great extent of well cultivated fields
and beautiful woodlands all around. Little of the building is now
standing. The former Account states, that, by some excavation
among the ruins, some silver spoons (apostle spoons) were found,
with round hollow handles, and the mouth or shell completely cir-
cular. What became of these relics, the present reporter could
never ascertain. Under a stone in the floor of the oratory of the
castle, a silver ring was lately found, having a small shield fixed
upon it, which exhibited two martial figures. This is now at
Arndilly.
Both record and tradition inform us, that, in very early times,
there was a bridge over the Spey, near the influx of the Orchil.
It appears to have been chiefly of wood, and calculated only for
the passage of pedestrians and horses. Where tradition says it
crossed the river, the water is very deep close to the ro^k on the
east side, which served for one of the abutments ; but this great
depth extends but a little way out from the rock, and then the
3tream shallows to the western bank. Hence one long stretch,
not beyond the powers of the largest tioober of the country would
sufiice for getting over the deeper water, and then the progress
westward would be comparatively easy by means of supports from
the bottom ; and such, according to tradition, was the nature of
the structure. If liable to injury by a flood, or to decay by tirne^
it could be easily repaired or replaced by the funds allocated for
the purpose. This bridge was, for many ages, the only passage
of the kind across this large, rapid, and dangerous river, and must
have been of great consequence to the whole of the north. Its
first erection has been ascribed to the Romans in their progress
under Severus, and it is known to have been in existence after the
Reformation. It is conjectured that the Reformation having ter-
minated the religious establishment connected with it (to be after-
wards mentioned), the bridge thus deprived of means for repair or
restoration yielded to decay soon thereafter, or was finally swept
away by a flood. Not a vestige of its ruins has been visible for
many years. A ferry-boat was substituted for it, and the passage
of the river, still very important, came to be called by the anoma-
lous name of *^ the boat of bridge," while the farms in the neigh-
bourhood still retained their former appellations of Bridgetown of
Spey and Upper Briglands. After a lapse of about 250 years^
the boat has, in its turn, given place to another bridge, which was
36G BANFFSHIRE.
erected a few years ago at the same spot, at the expense of the
Honourable Colonel Grant for the Earl of Seafieid, Richard
Wharton Duff, Esq. of Orton, and Patrick Steuart, Esq. of
Auchlunkart, and chiefly in consequence of the exertions of
this latter gentleman. It is on the suspension principle, on a
plan by Captain Brown, and cost about L.3500. Its span is 235
feet. The towers are lofty structures, of ashlar granite. The
toll-house, of polished freestone, is remarkably handsome. Un*
der the authority of the Banffshire Turnpike Act, a very moderate
pontage is exacted, little more than sufficient to keep the bridge
in repair ; but the gentlemen who have so liberally stepped for*
ward with the funds for it will eventually be well repaid, by the
increased value of the land on both sides of the river. Since the
erection of the bridge of Fochabers, six miles below, and Craigel-
lachie, six miles above, the passage of the river here is not of s^cfa
general importance as it once was ; but the accommodation af-
forded by this bridge to the public is still very great, and to the
districts in the neighbourhood it is invaluable.
Connected with the ancient structure, and on the Boharm side
of the river, there was a religious establishment called ** the Hos-
pital of St Nicholas at the Bridge of Spey.*' This seems to have
derived its origin from a gift of *^ Muriel de Pollock, heiress of
Rothes, in the beginning of the thirteenth century, of her estate
of Inverorkil," (where the bridge was built), ** to God, the Vir-
gin, and St Nicholas, in pure alms, for the support of a house
there for the reception of poor passengers." (See Shaw tit loco,
and Appendix, No. 2.) Shaw gives also, from the Chartulary of
Moray, the deeds by which Andrew Bishop of Moray, about the
same time, granted to this hospital the church of Rothes with its
pertinents, and by which Alexander II., a. d. 1232, granted a pro-
vision for a chaplain here. Shaw also mentions a grant to the
hospital of the lands of Aikenway by Walterus de Moravia.
The ruins of the buildings of this establishment remained in
considerable extent, till cleared away for the approach to the pre-
sent bridge, when many human bones were disinterred ; but no
other article of curiosity. It is presumed, that, at the Reforma-
tion, the lands were resumed by the heirs of the original donors,
or taken possession of by the neighbouring proprietors.
Modem Buildings. — Of modern buildings there is nothing worth
notice but the bridge just mentioned, and the mansion-houses of
Arndilly and Auchlunkart. The former is chiefly remarkable for
BOHARM. 367
its noble situation on the bank of the Spey, in a recess of Benagen,
which rises steep on three sides crowned with wood, having the river
in front spreading out into a broad pool, with the fine plains and ris«
ing woodlands of Rothes on the opposite bank, and the lofty Bel-
innes closing the prospect at five or six miles distance. Auch-
lunkart House is a most commodious mansion, on the plea-
sant bank of a brook, in the middle of the plantations already
mentioned. A Grecian colonnade ornaments the fronts and adds
to ornament the important utility of a covered portico. A conser-
vatory in the same style gives its very tasteful decoration to the
south front, and communicates with the drawing-room.
There are three meal-mills, each with a drying-kiln ; three saw-
mills, two of them fitted up with circular saws ; ten threshing-mills,
half of which are driven by water, and the rest by horses.
III. — Population.
The population in 1801 was 1 161
1811, 1190
1821, 1206
1831, 1385
Yearly average of births for last seren years, • . 40
marriagest . • .7
Number of fiunilies, . . . 296
of inhabited houses, . 2S^
of houses uninhabited or now building, • 4
Persons insane, none; fatuous, 4; blind, 2; deaf and dumb,
none.
The whole population is rural. So far as can be ascertained
there has been little change upon its numbers, for many years past.
Towards the end of last century, it was somewhat diminished by
the enlargement of farms, but this has been since more than com-
pensated by the increase of cottages along the new lines of road,
and by the settlement of crofters in the wastes. During the pre-
sent century, the population has been steadily though slowly on the
rise.*
Two of the four proprietors are resident ; and one gentleman
* In the population table prefixed to seventeenth volume of the former Statistical
Report, there is a great mistake, the occurrence of which affords a strong proof of the
necessity for great accuracy and attention in statistical inquiries. The population of
Boharm is there given as amounting, in 1755, by Dr Webster's inquiries, to 835,
and in 1794, by the roinister*s report, to 1294, and the difference is stated as abso-
lute increase, the fact not being adverted to, that in the interval the annexation from
Dundurcos had taken place, bringing with it upwards of 500 additional population.
Tliere was in truth a decrease in the Boharm amount of Dr Webster*s return, in-
stead of an increase. The same mistake appears in the generally correct and valu-
able Agricultural Survey of Banffshire, where this annexed Elginshire population
figures as swelling an increase in Banffshire.
BANFF. A a
308 BANFFSHIUE.
of landed property in another parish has his residence here.
There are no other inhabitants of independent fortune.
The people are very intelligent, thrifty, and good bargain mak-
ers« Considering the distance of many from church, they attend
public worship with commendable regularity, l^he lower orders
have certainly much improved in morality since the suppression of
smuggling — a tempting employment — for which the parish had
great facilities.
IV. — Industry.
Affriculturc^^ln consequence of the want of any thing like a
complete plan of the extensive estate of Arndilly, it has been
found impossible to give the full table of extents required under
this head. From such plans as there are of detached portions of
that estate, and from the information furnished by the proprietor
and tenants, the extent of the arable ground upon it, deducting the
portion in the parish of Rothes, the rate of rent per arable acre,
and the extent of improveable ground have been ascertained in a
tolerably close approximation to the truth, and are so added in
^ the table below to these particulars, as exhibited on the plans of
the other properties in the parish. But of the large number of
acres under wood, in green pasture, and in heath upon Arndilly,
the information obtained is quite insufficient for an accurate state ;
and hence the parochial extents of these cannot be given.
Imperial acres cultivated on Arndilly estate, . . 15)2
Aucblunkart do. • • 1401
Knockan do. . . . 126
Earl of Seafield*8 do. . . 1700
Total, 4739
Imperial acres that might be profitably taken from tho waste into cultivation, 600
in undivided common, . . . None
Rent of Land. — Average rent per imperial acre, including rights
of pasturage more or less extensive belonging to each farm, 1 8s. 7d.
WageSi S^c. — Good ploughmen per half year, in summer, L.6,
10s., in winter, L.6 ; second do. do., in summer, L. 4, 10s., in win-
ter, L.8, 15s.; cattle boys, in summer, L.1, 10s., in winter, L.1,
10s.; women for farm work, in summer, L.2, 10s., in winter, L.1,
10s.; labourers per day, in summer, Is. 8d., in winter. Is. 4d. ;
Wrights do., in summer, 2s., in winter. Is. 6d.; masons, do., in
summer, 2s. 6d«, in winter. Is. 6d.
The above wages for the half year are given along with board
and lodging, those by the day ai^ given as full payment.
Men engaged by the day for moss work, hay cutting, or bar-
BOHARM. 3()9
vest, with yictualsy Is. 6d. ; women. Is. Men engaged for the
harvest season, whether short or protracted, with victuals, L.2, 5& ;
women, L.1, 10s« Women, per day, planting or hoeing potatoes,
hoeing turnips, &c. &c, without victuals, 8d« ; hay cutting, per
imperial acre. Is. 9d ; corn cutting, scything, gathering, binding,
and stooking, per acre^, 4s. 6d. ; corn cutting by the hook, per
threave, of two stooks each, twelve sheaves oats, 2^d« ; barley and
wheat, 3d. Trenching moor ground, of average difficulty, twelve
inches deep, per Scotch fall, 6d. ; drain casting, three feet deep,
one foot wide at bottom, per Scotch ell, 1 ^d. : turf diking, with
ditch for enclosing planting, per Scotch ell, 2^. ; stone diking,
materials laid down by employer, double dike, four feet high, with
rough coping, per ell, 6d. ; single dike, or faced against earth
bank, per ell, 5d. Paling, three-barred, sufficient for cattle
fences on grass fields, per piece or flake, three yards long, wood
and workmanship included, 6d. Masou work, materials laid down
by employer, per rood of six yards square, L.1, 10s. ; do. mason
affording materials, L.4, 5s. Smith work, exclusive of iron, per
lb. for fine work, 4^d. ; do. plain work, l^d. ; rimming a pair of
wheels, 5s.; set of horse shoes, including iron, work, and nails,
ds» — Utensils : box cart, ordinary si^e, complete, L.7 ; wooden
plough, full ironed, L.d, 10s. ; pair of harrows, full-mounted, but
without tines, 18s. ; yoke and swingle trees, full mounted, 7s. 6d. ;
wheel*barrow, with iron wheel, L.!, 2s. 6d. ; pair of cart wheels,
ironed, L.d, 10s. ; full set of harness for one-horse- cart and
plough, L.4 ; iron plough, complete, L.3, 10s. — Produce : quar-
ter of oats, without fodder, L.1 ; quarter of barley, do. L.1, 5s. ;
fodder of each quarter of oats, 6s. 6d. ; do. of barley* 5s. ; hay,
per stone of twenty-two lbs., 7d. ; oatmeal, per boll of ten stones
imperial, 10s.; potatoes, per boll of eight old corn firlots, sup-
posed about five and a-half ewts. imperial, 8s. ; turnips, when sold
per Scotch acre, L.5 ; butter, per lb. imperial, 6d. ; cheese, per
imperial stone, fourteen lbs., 3s. 6d. ; eggs per dozen, 5d. ; sweet
milk per Scotch pint, 2d. ; skimmed milk per do. Id.; ordinary
three year old stot, well wintered and fit for grass, 1^6 ; ordinary
three year old quey, do. L.4, 10s. ; good cow, four years old,
L.6, 10s.; ewe and lambs of English breed, L.1, lOs. ; hill ewe
and lamb, 12s.; hill wether, four years old, 12s.; weaned pig,
six weeks old, 5s. ; porkers about eight months old, not exceeding
six stones imperial, per imperial stone, 4s. ; hens, each lOd. ;
chickens, each 4d. ; ducks, each lOd.
370 BANFFSHIRE.
Servants. — Servants are engaged universally for the half year,
from 26th May to 22d November, and from 22d November to
26th May, except what additional troops are required in harvest,
who are engaged for whatever time the harvest may last The
men servants, whether married or single, as well as the women
servants, always live in the families of their employers, those that
are married renting houses either in the neighbourhood, or in the
nearest village for their wives and families. It would perhaps be
a considerable improvement, if there were more married men ser-
vants, and these placed in cottages upon the farms. One great
evil of the present system is the constant recurrence of trouble
and expense to the masters, and the danger of dissipation to the
servants, in making new engagements at the feeing markets at the
end of every half year.
Labourers. — Much farm-work, cutting and filling drains, clear-
ing ditches, turning dung, &c. is done by contract with labourers.
Sometimes hay is cut by contract per acre, and more rarely grain.
The labourers have generally abundance of employment.
Harvesting. — Comparatively little of the cutting in harvest is
now done by the sickle, the use of which has been for the most
part superseded by the scythe. Each mode has its advantages.
The shearing is the neatest work, and more conservative of the
grain, but the scything is cheaper as to work, speedier as to time,
and more bountiful of fodder. It also admits of earlier stacking,
a point of great consequence in such a climate, and if the people
are tolerably expert in the use of the instrument, and in the ope-
ration of gathering the sheaf after it, it makes much neater work
than any one would imagine who has not seen it in employqient.
The difference of expense per Scotch acre, between cutting by
the sickle and by the scythe, may be reckoned as between 10s.
and 5s« 6d. An evil consequence of the general employment of
the scythe is, that it has interfered most materially with the har-
vest gains of the aged and infirm, who are now almost wholly ba-
nished from the fields. It may be here mentioned, that Mr
Stewart of Auchlunkart having lately introduced the short^handled
scythe for cutting the grass in his plantations, the servants and
labourers all around have already universally adopted it, and a
long-handled scythe is now nowhere to be seen in this quarter.
The workmen say, that, with the short-handled instrument, they '
can cut about one-sixth more per day, and this with less fatigue
to themselves.
BOHAIIM. 371
Horses. — Horses of suitable size and strength are kept in the
proportion of a pair for every thirty-&ve Scotch acres, and the
parish rears nearly as many as suffice for its supply.
Cattk and Sheep. — The black-cattle are rather of a snaall size,
which there have been few attempts to raise, as it is found very
suitable to the climate and pasture.
The stots and spare queys are generally sold off, when about
three years old, in the summer markets of the neighbourhood,
and, at that age, the stots are in great request for winterers in
the feeding districts. The soil, for the most part, not being pro-
ductive of heavy crops of turnips, and the markets for fat cattle
being rather distant, what turnips are raised are chiefly given to
the milk cows and rising stock, and are seldom applied to fattening
for the butcher, except on some of the larger farms.
Sheep, as before stated, are few in number, not above 400 in
all ; about the half of these are Lintons, kept on the skirts of the
hills ; another hundred are also Lintons, kept on old grass by the
iwo resident heritors for the supply of their own tables ; and the
remainder are of the large English breed, kept on the farms
chiefly for the Bake of their wool.
Swine. — Swine are kept in considerable numbers. The breeding
stocks are maintained at the corn-mills, and at a few of the larger
farms. Two feeding pigs, at least, are kept at every farm-steading,
and one or two at each of the cottages. These are fed for six or
eight months, till they attain about the weight of six stones each,
when they are sold to the curers in the neighbouring town of
Keith for exportation to London. Even at the present low prices,
a large sum of money is thus brought into the parish.
Poultry, — Common barn-door fowls and ducks are numerous
at every dwelling, but there are few turkeys or geese, except at
the barn-yards of the mansion-houses. The eggs of the common
fowls are bought up by the country merchants, and exported to
the London market, along with the spare butter from the dairies.
Eggs alone bring in a sum of about L.500.
System of Husbandry . — The prevailing system of husbandry is
a six- course shift. The grass ground is broken up for oats ; a se-
cond crop is taken, which is called the awald (or one-fold) crop ;
then the field is fallowed, — a naked fallow, dunged in spring,
where the land is wet, — turnips and potatoes, with occasionally
some tares, where it is tolerably dry. Barley or oats are sown
the fourth year with grass seeds. From half the extent so sown
372 BANFFSHIRE.
out, bay is made the fifth year, and the otBer half is either cut
green for house-feeding,, or depastured by the horses and cows.
The sixth year is always pasture. Taking all circumstances of
soil, situation, climate, and extra pasture into account, this is per-
haps as good a rotation as could be adopted ; though another year
in pasture, particularly on the lighter soils, or rather a proportion
of these devoted to permanent pasture, might seem an improve-
ment. In some few instances, the five-course shift has been in-
troduced, taking only one crop of oats at the commencement, but
this rotation is not a favourite, and, indeed, the soil being gene-
rally a stifi^ moist clay, the second crop of oats is always the more
productive. Of late, wheat has been attempted on part of the
best ground, in consequence of the very low price of oats, being
substituted for the oats after ley, which is top-dressed for it,
or for the barley after potatoes or bare fallow ; but though it has
hitherto paid well, it is, unquestionably, an unsuitable and preca-
rious crop for such a climate. The soil is well adapted for lint,
but it is not considered a remunerating crop ; a small patch, how-
ever, is almost always sown on each farm for domestic purposes.
Tares were, a few years ago, introduced for part of the fallow or
green crop, to be cut green for the horses, and a small portion
of them for this purpose is now sown on the greater number of
the farms. The production of turnips is greatly oo the increase,
in consequence of the use of bone-manure, introduced since 1829,
but very sparingly used till 1833, when the palpable success of
the few original experimenters led to its more general application.
It bids fe^ir in a few years, if the supply can be continued at its
present cost, of about 2s. 9d. per bushel, to become the universal
manure for turnips, and to banish bare fallow altogether, except
in very wet fields. At first, the bones were applied in large quan-
tities, to serve instead of the farm dung for the rotation, and this
is still the case in some instances, about thirty bushels being thus
given to the Scots acre, strewed in the bottom of the turnip drills ;
but what is now the more common practice, is to dibble in the
bones upon the top of the drills, in holes about eight inches
asunder, giving only from eight to ten bushels per acre, which is
found quite sufficient to raise the turnip crop, and then, in the
following spring, the farm manure saved from the turnips is given
to the barley and grass seeds, much to the improvement of the
barley and hay crops, and at a very trifling increase of expense.
In either way, the stock of manure is greatly enlarged, and the
6
liOHARM. 373
advantage is very considerable. Within these few years, a farmer
from Aberdeenshire has introduced the practice now followed by
some others, of growing turnip seeds on a large scale ; the turnips
are transplanted into the field for green crop; this practice is
troublesome and expensive, but is said to pay well. Oats are un-
questionably the staple grain. They are raised of excellent qua-
lity, while the barley and the small produce of wheat are generally
inferior. The value of the oat-straw, too, for fodder, where so
much depends upon cattle, is so much more, as to be held to
compensate even for the present inferiority of the price of the
grain. They are driven in large quantities to the various bar*
hours on the coast, about ten or twelve miles distant from the
centre of the parish, for exportation to London and Leith, and a
considerable quantity is sent to the Elgin district for meal. The
little quantity of wheat is sold at Elgin, and barley finds a ready
market at the various distilleries, of which there are four in tlie
neighbourhood of Craigellachie, and two at Keith.
Lime brought from the large calcining establishments in the
parishes of Keith and Mortlach, or calcined from the lime rock
within the parish, is abundantly applied as manure, and is consi-
dered essential to successful husbandry. On the old arable ground,
known to have been limed before, a fresh dose, of about thirty
provincial bolls of shells, equal to ninety-six bushels imperial, and
producing, of powdered lime, 240 bushels, is given to each* acre
once in every currency of a lease of nineteen years, and as near
as possible to the commencement of the lease. On ground newly
taken in from the waste, as much as 400 bushels imperial of pow-
dered lime is given, and on old arable, not limed before, the first
application is about 320 bushels imperial. On the arable fields,
it is commonly applied during the process of fallowing, or along
with the grass seeds. On newly improved lands, it is given before
they are put under their first crop. The price per provincial boll
of shells is about Is. 6d«
The farm-buildings have of late been much improved both in
appearance and accommodation, particularly on the property of
Auchlunkart ; but, in too many instances, they are still mean and
inconvenient There are few permanent enclosures either by
stone-dikes or hedges, except in the neighbourhood of the man-
sion houses, and more would be very desirable, as leading to longer
continuance of the dry fields in pasture ; but the want is less felt,
that wood is so abundant and cheap for paling, the use of which
for temporary enclosures, is very common.
374 BANFFSHIRE.
lu this parish, the spirit of improvement awakened, about forty
years ago, by David M^Dowal Grant, Esq., husband of the late
proprietrix of Arndilly, and much encouraged by him during the
continuance of his connection with the property, has since accom-
plished much, particularly since 1808, when the country was open-
ed by turnpike roads. Patrick Steuart, Esq. of Auchlunkart
commenced a very spirited course as an improver soon after his
succession to the estate in 1800, and has since persevered with
most praiseworthy energy and most profitable success. A consi-
derable deal has also been done on the Seafield property, and
much is in immediate contemplation. Throughout the parish,
the old arable fields have been much dried by ditches and drains,
and, having been freed of unsightly baulks and bogs, have been
properly laid together, limed, and brought under a regular rota-
tion. The swampy bottoms of the valleys have been drained, and
are now almost entirely converted into productive lands, and many
acres of moor ground have been reclaimed, partly by the plough,
and partly by trenching, which is considered the preferable mode,
and is found, on the whole, not more expensive*
In such a report as this, the fact surely deserves a place, that
Mr Steuart, succeeding to an arable extent in this parish of 812
Scotch acres, has, besides all his plantations already noticed, ad-
ded to that extent, either by his own direct operations or by his
tenantry, the extent of 800 Scotch acres, and has 120 more, at
this present time, in course of improvement ; so that, in the course
of two or three years hence, the total number of arable Scotch
acres on the estate of Auchlunkart in this parish will be advanced
from 812 to 1232. Mr Steuart has been equally energetic and
successful in the other parishes into which his property extends.
liable of Produce, —
Grain, viz. oats with fodder, 5025 at L.1, Gs. 6d. . L.6658 2 6
barley do. 10214 at L.l, lOs. . . 1518 15
Turnips and potatoes,
Hay and cut grass,
Pasture arable lands,
not arable, .
Gardens and orchards,
Annual thinnings of woods,
Fbheries, .
Game,
♦ Total produce, . L.14,256 10
* The data en which the above tvblc has been uiadc up, in so far us it relates to the
Total grain,
JL8176 17
6
a •
1600
. • •
2187 10
L.I877
470 2 6
1847 2
80
6
•
•
300
. •
\5
• •
100
BOUARM. 375
V. — Parochial Economy.
There is no market-town or village. Keith, at the distance of
six miles east from the centre of the parish, is the nearest market-
town, and the village of Rothes is about the same distance in the
opposite direction. Fochabers, close to the lower extremity, is
about seven miles from the church, and Dufftown of Mortlach,
and Charlestown of Aberlour, near the upper extremity, are each
about eight miles from the centre. Elgin is thirteen miles distant.
A daily post passes through the parish on the route from Keith
to Craigellachie, and there is a sub-office near the centre. One
line of turnpike road, admirably formed and kept, passes from
Keith to the suspension bridge, opening communication thence to
Elgin, Rothes, Garmach, &c. The length of this road within the
parish is four and a half miles. Another line of turnpike, called
the Boharm road, branches off from the Great North Road half-
way between Keith and Fochabers, and passes up the valley till
near the upper end, where it divides into two branches, one lead-
ing to Mortlach, and the other to Aberlour, Grantown, &c with
an offset to the bridge of Craigellachie. The length of this road,
including the branch to Mortlach, is, within this parish, about
twelve miles. This road is in a state of great disrepair, and one
of the bridges, destroyed by the flood of 1829, has not been
replaced, so that for two or three years no tolls have been exigible
on the line. This is understood to be owing to some dispute
among the trustees about a debt contracted for the original for-
mation of the road. It is much to be wished that this matter were
agricultural produce ot the parish, are the results of much and very careful inquiry
and observation, and are as follows, viz. that of the 3761 Scotch arable acres con-
tained in the parish, nearly one-sixth, or about 611 acres, may be held as unsuitable
for the rotation to which the rest are subjected, as before detailed, being thin poor
fields, hill sides, moss-edges, and the like, generally kept in poor pasture, and only
occasionally broken up for very poor crops. This portion is taken as pasture at 15s.
per Scotch acre. The remaining 3150, estimated as under the six-course rotation,
give twO'Sixths of their number for oats, out of ley and awald crop ; taken at three
and a half quarters of produce per acre at L. 1 , 6s. 6d. per quarter ; also for oats,
about one-half of another one-sixth, the shift after fallow, say 300 acres at four and
a half quarters at same price. The other part of the shift after fallow is in barley,
say 225 acres at four and a half quarters at L.1, 10s. per quarter. The sixth for
fiillow and green crop, 525 acres, gives 400 acres for turnips and potatoes at L.4, — the
rest bare fallow. The sixth in new grass gives 300 acres in hay at L.5, 58. per acre,
and 225 acres cut green or depastured at L. 2, lOs. each, and the after crop is reck-
oned at 10s per acre. The last sixth, in second year's grass, is given as pasture at
L.l, 5s. per acre.
The unarable pasture, burn sides, hills, glens, &c. is stated at the average rate of
2s. 6d. for each acre of the arable land to which it is annexed. The lesser articles of
produce, wheat, flax, tares, 6ce. have been considered as only displacing the staple
articles of equal value. The produce stated is the average of ordinary years : but
seasons occasionally occur, as in 1816 and 1817, when the grain is r.carly a total
failure.
376 UANFFSIIIRE.
speedily settled, that the road might be again put in proper con-
dition, for not only is the disrepair inconvenient already, especially
in winter, but it is always increasing, and must soon terminate in
the complete ruin of the present roadway on one of the most im-
portant lines in the county.
Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated as nearly as possi -
ble in the centre of the parish. It stands on the boundary line
between the old parish and the annexation from Dundurcos, — the
decreet of suppression and annexation having provided for a new
church and manse in this situation. It was built in 1793, and is in
good repair. It affords accommodation for about 700. There are,
strictly speaking, no free sittings, the whole sittings being divided
among the farms, and annexed to them ; but there are no seat-
rents, and all are well accommodated, in consequence of all hold-
ing some land, a farm, ^ croft, or a kail-yard. Though the church
is situated jis conveniently for the general body of the people as
perhaps it could be, yet, in a parish of such length, and where the
population is so scatte/ed, one church cannot be convenient for
all, while the numbers of those most inconvenienced are so few in
their respective localities as to prevent all idea of remedying the
evil by additional churches within the parish. One or two of these
remote districts might be accommodated by churches or preach-
ing-stations erected in similar detached corners of the adjoining
parishes, by combining them with which suitable congregations
might be formed.
The manse was built in 1811. It is large, but very far from
commodious. Though built in a very damp situation, which must
soon impair it, it is still in pretty good condition, having received
some trifling repairs in 1818.
The glebe is about 28 Scotch acres in extent, of which 18 were
arable at the time of the designation, poor thin land ; and the rest
have been improved at an enormous expense by the late and pre-
sent incumbents. It was given at the time when the church was
removed, in excambion for the old glebe of eleven acres, which
now rents at L.14. The present glebe would perhaps let for L.25
or L.dO ; but this increase of glebe value is but a poor compensa-
tion for the outlay which has produced it.
The stipend is, by surrender of teinds in 1817, L.168^ — 55 b, 1 p.
2l. oatmeal, and 28^ bolls barley payable in kind, and 11^ bolls
victual, 2. e, half meal half barley, payable by the county Gars,
without any separate allowance for communion elements.
BOHAllM. 377"
There is no chapel of ease, Government church, or Dissenting
meeting-bouse of any description. All the parishioners, except
about 2O9 belong to the Established Church, and the Episcopa-
lian part of the exception, amounting to one-half of it, attend wor-
ship generally in the parish church. The other half of the excep-
tion consists of one family of Roman Catholics, 5 in number, and
5 Seceders, who worship at Fochabers or Keith.
Divine service in the church is generally well attended, always
so when the state of the weather and roads allows the more distant
parishioners to walk so far. The average number of communi-
cants is 510.
The annual average amount for the past five years of the whole
collections in church is L.d5, of which one collection, averaging
L.2, is given to some of the Assembly's four Schemes, and one,
amounting to L.5, is appropriated to a fund for procuring medical
attendance to the poor at home, or conveying them to that most
useful charity, Gray's Hospital at Elgin. About L.5, 10s. is re-
quired to pay the salaries of session-clerk, precentor, and kirk*
officer, and incidental expenses, and the whole of the rest is paid
over to the poor's box.
JSc/uca^ton.—* There are three schools, besides two sewing schools
for girls, and two or three dame schools for infants. The parish
school is situated close to the church in the centre of the parish,
and one of the other two in each extremity. One of the sewing
schools is in the upper division, the other in the lower.
The parish schoolmaster has the maximum salary, the le-
legal accommodations, and a share of the Dick Bequest His
average amount of fees paid is L.17 per annum. The teacher of
the school in the lower end has a salary of L.5 from the Earl of
Seafield. The teacher in the upper end has, from Arndilly, the
accommodation of a comfortable house and a good garden, but has
no salary. The sewing school in the lower end is altogether on
the teacher's own account The one in the upper end is support-
ed by a salary of L.5 from the Society for Propagating Christian
Knowledge, and by an endowment of five bolls of oatmeal, with a
free house and garden from the family of Arndilly. The fees in
these subsidiary schools are so much more paid in other articles of
value than in money, that it is impossible to state their amount.
The people in general are fully alive to the advantages of educa-
tion. There are only a few, chiefly aged, persons that cannot write,
and the instances are rare, indeed, of inability to read. The sub-
378 BANFFSHIRE.
sidiary schools remedy, in some degree, in their respective dis-
tricts, the evil of remoteness from the parish school ; but they stand
greatly in need of better endowments, while there is one district,
containing seventeen families, so situated as to have no benefit at
least for its younger children from any of the schools, and it is
unable to maintain a school within its own bounds.
Literature. — There is one parochial library, managed by a com*
mittee of subscribers, containing a tolerable collection of useful
and interesting books, and likely to prosper.
Itistitufions. — There is a parish saving bank, which was insti-
tuted in the year 1821, under the management of the minister as
cashier, the schoolmaster as accountant, and two or three respect-
able parishioners as trustees or directors. At first the deposits,
considering the small population and general poverty of the dis-
trict, were large, till they amounted at length to the sum of
L. 1*200. The diminution of the rate of interest some years ago
considerably checked the spirit of depositing, and still operates
against accumulation; but the capital still amounts to L.1000,
having, for the last three or four years, been neither increased nor
diminished, the amount of deposits and accumulating interests on
the one hand just balancing drafts and uppayments on the other,
each being about L.200 per annum. When an account rises to
L.25 it is paid up ; and there are instances of the same individual
having been twice paid up in this way. The depositors are chiefly
farm servants, unmarried aged females, and parents for small pro-
visions to their children. The institution has been and still is
most beneficial both to the temporal interests and the moral wel-
fare of the people. The proprietors could not lay out money to
better account, for their own eventual benefit, as well as for the
good of their tenantry, than by giving a little to foster savings
banks in connection with their estates, by enabling their managers
to pay a more tempting rate of interest than can be done without
such aid.
Poor. — The average number of poor on the regular roll is 21,
of whom an average of two being bedrid or infirm, receive the value
of a peck of mea1,]and Is. Sd., in all about 2s. 6d. per week, and the
remaining nineteen receive about ds. each, at each of four distribu-
tions in the year, besides occasional supplies when necessary. Be-
sides this, there is what is called the occasional roll, containing on
an average the names of ]2 poor people, who receive, as the
money may be spared among them, about lOs. each yearly. Fune-
BOHARM. 379
ral expenses for those on the regular roll are allowed at the rate of
L.1 each. Females of the poorer class advanced in years, or other-
wise disabled from earning their subsistence, form now unquestion-
ably the most destitute portion of the rural population, as the rate
of pay for spinning flax by the hand-wheel, on which such persons
used formerly to depend, has been reduced by the competition] of
machinery so low, that its remuneration for the most sedulous in-
dustry is insufficient for the barest subsistence, and thus there is
little temptation for engaging in the work. For the benefit of
such females, the reporter some years ago suggested, and still car-
ries on, a plan which may be here detailed, because not only has
it been found most beneficial for its object, but its simplicity of
operation is such that no dread of trouble attending it need pre-
vent its adoption in other quarters. At the commencement of each
winter, a small charitable work fund is formed, chiefly by the libe-
ral donations of Mrs Sleuart, Auchlunkart, and a list of some
fifteen or twenty of the class in question, the most deserving ob-
jects of a little kindly assistance, is made out. It is intimated to
these, that if they procure flax for themselves, which they always
do from some of the country merchants, or in the neighbouring
towns, and gain the manufacturer's wages for spinning it, they will
for so many months of the winter be paid an additional sum of 4d.
for each 8d. so gained, on their application to some one of two or
three agents of the charity appointed throughout the parish, to
whom they just produce a certificate from the merchant who has
received the spun lint back from them, of the amount he has paid
them in the preceding week or month. This additional payment or
premium brings up the pay for a week's work to a week's sub-
sistence, and so supplies the necessary stimulus, so that with very
little trouble to any body a charity of L.6 is made to enlarge itself
to L.1 8, and to carry the happiness and blessings of industry along
with it.
Poor^s Funds. — The annual average aipount of collections paid
over to the poor's box, is L.22, 10s. ; interest of L.200 lent by the
kirk treasurer on heritable security, L. 8; one-half rent of Bede
rigs of Dundurcos, 10s. ; average amount of income from other
sources, penalties, donations, &c L.12; total, L.4d. Besides oc-
casional donations, the heritors, whenever there is an extraordi-
nary demand, are never backward to supply contributions in propor-
tion to their respective valued rents, to prevent encroachment on
the stock of the kirk-session. There is a general reluctance still
380 BANFFSHIRE.
to apply for parochial aid, but from various causes it is gradually
wearing out.
Innsj Sfc. — There are 4 licensed victualling houses or inns.
Perhaps this number is required on such a length of road, but then
the whole four are spirit-shops also, and by far the greater part of
the business is the sale of spirits drunk on the premises. Hence
each of them is unquestionably a nuisance in its neighbourhood,
the habitual resort of the profligate, and the seducing tempter of
the unwary. The best that can be said of them, if they are all
necessary, is that they are necessary evils. Were the regulations
of law enforced as to hours, &c. the evils might be somewhat abat-
ed ; but this cannot be expected in a district so remote from police.
Fuel. — The general fuel is turf and peat, procured easily in the
lower part of the parish from an extensive moss, but with great
difficulty in the middle and upper parts, from mosses on the hills
almost exhausted. Where, however, turf is scarce, wood is abun*
dant and cheap. Coals are used by the resident proprietors, and
partially by the more substantial tenants. They are brought from
Port-Gordon, on the Banffshire coast, at a medium distance of
twelve miles, or from Garmach, at the mouth of the Spey, at a
medium distance of fourteen miles. The price of the imperial
barrel at the shore is about Is. 4d. and the cartage of a barrel 6d.
but a large proportion is brought up by the returning carts, which
have carried down grain for exportation. Where easiest procuredf
the cart load of peats of the size generally taken on the farmer's
carts, is about Is., exclusive of carriage. In use, this is equal to a
barrel of coals, but the carriage is more expensive when there is
oiherwise full employment for the horses. Where turf is more dif-
ficult to be procured, and of worse quality, the inhabitants would
in fact pay much less for coals and wood, and be more comfort-
able with these, but the turf ashes are prized for manure, and the
expense, which consists in labour alone, is not sufficiently esti-
mated.
Drawn vp in 1834.
Addenda.
Thb following addenda bring the foregoing report up to the
present date.
1. By the census of 1841, the population of the parish was
found to have considerably diminished since 1831, being now only
1261, or 124 less. The causes of this are, an enlargement of
farms on the Seafield property, the pressure of a series of late
BOH ARM. 3^1
years and bad crops, and an increased disposition for emigration
to the colonies.
2. Notwithstanding the unfavourable character of the seasons
of late, the progress of agricultural improvement has been steadily
going on. Furrow or frequent draining has been introduced, in
a few instances, with most beneficial eflfects. Bone manure, not-
withstanding its greatly increased price, is in almost universal use
for turnips, greatly enlarging the production of this useful article.
It is now very often applied along with a small quantity of dung.
On the Seafield estate, many of the improvements in contempla-
tion at the date of the report have been executed, and more are
in progress. The farms have been properly arranged and subdi-
vided, and some of them substantially enclosed. Several useful
roads have been made. Drainage has been carried on on a very
extensive plan, and with most beneficial effects ; and many plan-
tations have been made, which will soon afford both shelter and
ornament to the district.
3. The reporter's plan for supplying the wants of aged females,
by the medium of their own industry, has lately failed ; not from
any want of funds, but from the impossibility of procuring the
materials of industry, there being no such thing now as flax given
out for hand-spinning in this part of tlie country. This class of
our poor population are perhaps the most destitute of all, now
that the domestic manufactures, which used to sustain them, are
so much superseded ; and their case, for some suitable provision,
is strongly recommended to the consideration of the charitable.
4. The incoromodiousness of the manse has been wholly reme-
died by a considerable addition, and a small change of internal
arrangements, most handsomely granted last year by the heritors
as a personal favour to the present incumbent, for which he is
happy to have this public opportunity of recording bis thanks.
5. The deficient bridge, on the Boharm road, has been replaced
by the Earl of Seafield, and, instead of a temporary wooden bridge
over the Fiddich, a very handsome structure of stone has been
erected at an expense of L.450, supplied by the liberality of the
gentlemen in the neighbourhood. It was opened in the end of
last year. The road has also received some slight repairs, and is
kept passable by the several gentlemen through whose properties
it extends, but it is still in a very bad state, demanding a thorough
repair, so as to permit tolls again to be raised for its support.
June 16, 1842.
PARISH OF MARNOCH.*
PRBSBYTERY OF STRATHBOOIE, SYNOD OF MORAY.
I. — Topography and Natural History.
Name, — ABERCHiRDERy the original name of this parish, was,
no doubt, taken from Sir David Aberkerder, Thane of Aberker-
der, who lived about the year 1400, and possessed a great part of
it. He is mentioned as paying revenue to the Bishopric of Mo-
ray ; his daughter was married to Sir Robert Innes, brother
to John Innes, for seven years Bishop of Moray previous to 1414.
The present name is derived from St Marnoch. A well near the
manse is called the Saint's Well, and another, at no great distance,
the Lady's Well. There is a village in the parish, contain-
ing 800 inhabitants, still called Aberchirder. Some say this word
signifies the mouth or opening of the moss, and that this place was
so called from its being near the edge of a large moss.
The Earl of Fife is patron. The right of patronage connected
with the property of Kinardy was purchased by the late Earl
James.
Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is of very irregular shape.
It lies along the north bank of the river Doveron for about 6 miles,
and extends backwards from the river to the distance of 5 or 6
miles. Some of the extreme points are 8 miles apart. It is
bounded on the south by the Doveron, on the opposite side of
which lie the parish of Inverkeithny and part of Rothiemay ; .on
the west, by Rothiemay ; on the north, by Ordiquhtll, Boyndie,
Banff, and Alvah ; and on the east, by Forglen. The superficial
extent is about 34 square miles.
Topographical Appearances^ S^c. — The southern parts of the pa-
rish are beautifully situated, have a fine exposure, and consist of ear-
ly fertile soil. Some of the haugh ground is superior. There are
several most delightful spots along the river-side. The Inch line
on the property of Edward Ellice, Esq. of Ardmellie, is remark-
* Communicated by the Rev. D. Henry.
MAUNOCH. 383
able for a variety of very lai^e and beautiful trees. Some larches
in particular have here attained their largest dimensions. They
must have been planted about eighty years ago» soon after the
larch was first introduced into Scotland. The mansion-house on
this property, occupied by William Stronach, Esq. commands an
extensive view of the valley of the Doveron. The grounds are
regularly laid out, and are in the highest state of cultivation. The
steep-wooded hill of Ardmellie is the highest ground in the pa-
rish. The manse stands at the foot of it on the bank of the river,
at the junction of the Burn of Crombie. The church is on a
rising ground at a little distance, in the middle of a Druidical
circle, two large stones of which now only remain. The church-
yard lies at the river-^dge, — a site of peculiar interest and beauty.
It contains several monuments of some architectural elegance.
The most remarkable is that of " Reverendus et Pius Geo. Mel-
drum de Crombie, et quondam de Glass, Prseco.'^ He was Epis-
copal minister or bishop of Glass, and laird of Crombie in this pa-
rish ; died 1692, aged seventy-six. The ornaments on the tomb
are very rich and well carved. There is a vault attached to it ;
and, in a recess in the centre of the elevated part of the monu-
ment, there is a half-length figure of the bishop, with cap on,
and full sacerdotal robes, the hands holding a book, and altogether
an cmcommonly rich and highly-finished piece of architecture, in
freestone from Elgin. A portion of the old church still remains
in the grave-yard. It had been used% a Roman Catholic, Epis-
copal, and Presbyterian parish church in succession. There is
a very neat vault, erected by public subscription in 1831, in which
the bodies of the dead are laid for two months previous to being
interred. This plan originated in consequence of a grave having
been robbed of its dead, which occasioned a great sensation in the
parish. The river, a little below this, at the farm of Euchrie,
takes several most remarkable turns. — The bridge, built in 1806,
is the next object of interest. It consists of two arches, one of
which is of a very wide span, and stands high on two opposite
rocks. A little below, stands the old tower-looking mansion of
Kinardy, on a promontory at the junction of the burn of the same
name with the Doveron. Its situation is peculiarly picturesque
and commanding. This house is very ancient, — has been built at
various periods, — and was, together with much of the property of the
parish, held by the Chrichtons of Frendraught, whose chief resi-
dence of Frendraught was in the neighbouring parish of Forgue.
The river then winds its way towards the church, manse, and
BANFF. B b
3S4 BANFFSHIRE.
village of Inverkeithny, on the opposite bank, about two miles diis^
tant. Here on the Marnoch side is a place called Chapelton,
where, no doubt, there had once stood a place of worship. A
little lower down are the grounds and mansion-house of Ne-
therdale, — the property of Mrs Rose Innes, second heritor of
the parish. The house is modern and handsome. The garden
and grounds are beautifully laid out and well wooded. There
are beech hedges here, remarkably large and fine specimens.
The property, chiefly consisting of several lai^ farms, is very
well cultivated.
The middle portion of the parish from west to east is considera*
bly diversified with rising grounds, the summits of most of them being
covered with young thriving plantations, which afford shelter and
very much improve the appearance of the country. The hollows
or straths between are well cultivated, and watered with small bums
or rivulets. The soil in some places is dry, but commonly humid
and mossy.
On the west side stands the old castle of Crombie, now the
property of the Earl of Seafield. It has the appearance of having
been a place of some strength. It now consists of three stories,
but, like the similar castle of Kinardy, was at one time much
higher. It is supposed to be of very ancient date.
In the northern parts of the parish, consisting of the small ]pro*
perties of Barrie, Culvie, Thorax, and the larger one of Auchio*
derran, the soil, in geneill, though pretty fertile, is of a mossy
nature, the exposure rather unfavourable, there being no wood«
Much has been done of late years to improve these properties.
In this part of the parish, the only resident proprietor is Robert
Ogilvie, Esq. of Culvie.
Hydrography, — There are numerous small rivulets tributary to
the Doveron ; and springs of different qualities abound in the pa^
rish. Most of the springs are strongly impregnated with iron. Se«
veral in the lands of Crombie and Auchintoul have been of late dis-
covered, containing sulphur, &c. There are very extensive mosses
in the parish, especially on the hill of Crombie, and on the lands of
Auchintoul and Auchinderran; these are much resorted to for peats.
Mineralogy. — The rock in the parish is principally granite, of
which there are several quarries wrought to a considerable extent.
One of these, on the lands of Cluny, of a gray colour, yields the
largest and finest post for all sizes of cut granite, equal to any in
Scotland. A limestone is also found in Ardmellie, A kiln had
been formerly in operation here. The range of granite rock seems
6
MARNOCH. 385
■to terminate, and that of a blue limestone seems to commence,
about the burn of Kinardy^
Land'-owierii — The land-owners in the parish are, William
Aitken, Esq. of Auchintoul ; Mrs Rose Innes of Netherdale ;
Earl of SeaBeld, Crombie, and Crana ; Earl of Fife's Trustees}
Kinard; ; Mrs Chalmers of Cluny ; The Right Honourable Ed.
Ellice of Ardmellie; Arthur Abercrombie, Esq. of Auchinderran ;
William Duff, Esq. of Tillydown ; Robert OgiWie, Esq. of Culvie ;
Wiffiam Grant, Esq. of Barry ; and John Benton, Esq. of Thorax^
Mansion-housesy Sfc. — Near the centre of the parish stands the
mausioD-house of Auchintoul, now the property of William Ait-
ken, Esq., the largest proprietor in the parish. This was once
the residence and property of General Alexander Gordon, who
entered the service of Russia as a cadet, under Peter the Great,
and rose to high favour and command in his army. After he re-
tired to his native country, he took a prominent part in the rebel-
lion of 1715, commanded the Highland clans at Sheriffmuir, and
conducted their retreat with great skilL He was after this attaint-
ed for treason, bat escaped by a misnomer, and thus saved his life
and property, but was obliged to remain concealed for several years in
France, whence he returned in 1724* He wrote in two volumes the
history of his ** Great'* master and fnend, was much respected, and
died aged eighty«two years : he was buried in the church-yard
here, but no memorial marks the spot His second wife was a
daughter of Sir T. Moncrieff of Moncrieff. The house on this pro-
perty is a lai^ plain building, forming three sides of a square, —
one side was built by General Gordon. It has been much im-
proved by the present pn^rietor ; the situation is commanding.
The gardens are beautifully walled with dressed granite, and well
kept The hot bouses and. conservatory are extensive, and there
is a very handsome square of most commodious offices. The
woods and belts are of considerable extent, and thriving on this
property ; and within half a mile of the house stands the village of
Aberchirder, consisting of three streets, regularly laid out, running
parallel to each other, having a large square in the middle, and
many excellent substantial houses recently built
On the east, stands the mansion-house of Cluny, the property
of Mrs Chalmers. It is a modem structure, beautifully built of
dressed granite in the cottage style. The house was built, and
the whole place laid out by the late Mr Chalmers, with great
judgment and taste. The whole is in a most complete state.
ZS6 BANFFSHIRE.
RDd the young plantations are very ornamental* This property,
along with another in an adjoining parish, was destined by the late
Mr Chalmers to the establishment of an hospital in Banff. ..
Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers are, Ij^, book of
discipline, commencing in the year 1666, kept regularly, con-
taining also the money transactions of the kirk-session, with regard
to the poor; Qd, register of baptisms, commencing in the year
1676, and kept regularly ; 8€f, register of marriages, continued
from 1672 to 1680. There is then a complete blank till 1773,
but from that period the registration is regular.
III. — Population.
The population of the parish in 1841 was 2876. The number
of families 623, all belonging to the Established Church, with the
exception of about 40. Of these, about twelve belong to the Se-
cessioiv Church, about ten to the Roman Catholic, and six to the
Episcopal church, and about eight to the Baptist communion,
all of whom have places of worship in the village.
IV. — Industry.
Agriculture, — The real rental of the parish is about L.7000.
The highest rent of land per acre is L.3, the ordinary rent is from
18s. to L.1, 2s. A considerable portion does not exceed from
12s. to 15s. per acre. It is believed that agriculture has, within
the last twenty-five years, by the improvement of waste land, added
about one-third to the rental of the parish. Improved breeds of cat-
tle have been introduced in several of the farms, and crossed
with the native breeds, with apparent advantage. The new system
of drainage has also commenced here.
The lands of Crombie have been much improved of late years
by the two enterprising tenants.. One of them, Mr Smith, gained
a medal from the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland
in 1836, for the improvement of waste and other land.
V. — Parochial Economy.
Markets, Sfc. — In the village, there are regular markets for feeing
servants at the terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas. During the
winter, there is a weekly grain market on Monday, as also an an-
nual market on the second Tuesday of March, for horses and cat-
tle, called Marnoch fair. There are six public houses in the pa-
rish, one in the country, and five in the village, — three too many.
There are a branch of the North of Scotland Bank, and a stamp-
office in the village, as also a post*office, and regular runners every
lawful day to Banff and Huntly. The turnpike between these
places runs through the village, and also the road between Tur*
3
MARNOCH. 887
I
riff and Portsoy, the village being almost in the centre between
these places, and from eight to ten miles distant from each. The
parishioners of Marnoch are an industrious, quiet, well-behaved
people, and possessing a high degree of intelligence.
Library. — There is an extensive parochial library, as well as a-
juvenile library. Many of the parishioners are much given to
reading. It may be mentioned, that, in the course of two weeks,
60 copies of Dr Dewar's ** Body of Divinity*' were sold in the
parish.
Ecclesiastical State. — The stipend, as last augmented, is 128
bolls of meal, the same number of barley, and L.10 for commu-
nion elements. The glebe contains about five-and-a-quarter acres
arable, worth L. 3, Ss. per acre, and three and a-quarter acres of
grass, worth' L.1, 10s. per acre. The manse was built in 1805,
a plain, comfortable building, in good repair, and beautifully si-
tuated. The church, built some years prior to this time, and,
from insuESciency, rebuilt within a few years after, is still little
fitted for comfort It is one of those old-fashioned barn-looking
houses, which are now very properly disappearing, to make way
for more improved places of worship.
The Protestant ministers of the parish were, — Hugo Chalmers,
Episcopal minister of Marnoch, who died in 1707. His son, Alex-
ander Chalmers, succeeded him as Presbyterian minister, for which
office he had been educated by bis father. — Mr James Innes, who
died in the year 1803; and Mr William Stronach, who died in 1837.
Mr John Edwards was presented by the patron in 1837 ; another
presentation was issued by the patron in 1838 in favour of Mr D.
Henry. The proceedings that led to this second presentation, or
that ensued, need not be recited here. We may merely mention,
that they led to the erection of a very handsome new church
and inanse ne