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Haute Dim Sum

Sir David Tang has been busy lately – following last year’s launch of his youthful lifestyle store Tang Tang Tang Tang, the Shanghai Tang founder has planted yet another gastronomic root in Hong Kong, with the December opening of China Tang in Central. Based on the London original, which has been serving fine Cantonese fare at the Dorchester since 2007, the HK outpost offers the formula that Sir David does best: exquisite regional fare in decadent and evocative surrounds.

Brightly lit dining rooms feature spotless white linens and richly printed chairs, while private rooms are awash with traditional Chinese décor, with a palette of deep reds and yellows, and details like hand-painted wallpapers and antique light fixtures. On the plate, refined classics star – elegant dim sum is arguably Tang’s culinary signature, and that remains true here: the specialty barbecued pork is deliciously honey-glazed, the pan-fried Shanghai pork buns offer the perfect crispy bite, and normally messy beef balls are wrapped neatly like dumplings in sheets of beancurd. There are elevated takes on staples as well – the untraditional har gow features lobster in place of shrimp, and siu mai arrives topped with mini abalone. For an atmospheric dim sum experience with all the silver service and none of the hectic bustle, Sir David Tang proves again that he knows best.