Ipoh: A cultural and culinary guide to Malaysia's rising tourism star

Emily Ding, CNN • Updated 22nd May 2017

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(CNN) — Sometime after the tin slump of the 1980s, Ipoh earned a reputation for being a retirement destination, or just a pit stop on the way to Penang.

These days, it's going through a tentative revival, thanks to the recent crop of hotels, cafes, museums and street art in the historic center.

"Before, there wasn't one place where people gathered," says Julie Song of Burps & Giggles, a cafe that's contributed to the city's new face.

"Now, everyone who comes makes Old Town their first stop."

But the capital of Malaysia's Perak state has always possessed the qualities that make places like Penang so compelling to travelers: a rich architectural, cultural and culinary heritage -- but without the crowds. (Though weekends are a different story.)

And that's not all. Surrounded by Paleozoic limestone hulks, Ipoh is also a gateway to the area's beautiful caves and hot springs.

Here are some suggestions on things to do in Ipoh, as well as some dining and hotel recommendations.

TO SEE

Ipoh's Old Town is filled with heritage buildings.

MANAN VATSYAYANA/AFP/AFP/Getty Images

Kong Heng Square

A few years ago, landscape architect Ng Seksan and his friends took over this block, breathing new life into Old Town.

"We wanted to keep the old tenants, such as the Kong Heng kopitiam and the Indian barber," Ng says.

To learn about the history of tin and how miners lived when they weren't working, visitors can book themselves in to visit Han Chin Pet Soo.

The museum was previously home to the Hakka Tin Miners' Club, founded in 1893, which in its early days was open only to men -- a place to socialize, smoke opium and gamble -- though exceptions were made for "dancing girls."

Out around Kinta Valley are former tin-mining towns and other historical attractions to explore.

John Lee of Ipoh Secrets offers custom tours that help break through the language barrier

Up close with limestone hulks

Chinese temple Sam Poh Tong.

Emily Ding

When the Chinese came to Kinta Valley, they built temples in limestone caves.

Perak Tong, dating from the 1920s, has one of the most beautiful interiors, filled with colorful murals of deities. There's also a hilltop pavilion with city views, though visitors will need to climb more than 400 steps to reach it.

Sam Poh Tong, apparently discovered by a monk in the 1890s, is a little dilapidated, but its gardens have an enchanting, wild quality. It's got faded terraces, a tortoise pond and a striking red temple out back.

Tambun Cave has prehistoric paintings of men and animals, plus abstract shapes found on its cliff face.

We recommend ordering the curry mee soup with your noodle of choice, and a mixed bowl of roast and barbecue pork, prawns, chicken and beansprouts.

Don't forget their special gravy, reportedly a mixture of curry oil, garlic, pork lard and lime.

Hakka mee

Hakka mee: The essential Ipoh dish.

Emily Ding

Paris Restaurant (164 Jalan Sultan Iskandar/Hugh Low Street) has moved into its third generation of cooks.

It specializes in perfectly springy, flat egg noodles, topped with bean sprouts and minced meat caramelized with soy sauce and fish sauce, with an accompaniment of chilli and garlic-ginger sauce.

It's also possible to order it with a bowl of soup with meatballs and fishballs.

On weekends, it's best to arrive well before 11 a.m. They sell out fast.

"Nasi Ganja"

Contrary to the name, there are no suspicious substances in this rice dish. It's just really good.

The nickname has become inextricably linked to the Nasi Kandar Ayam Merah stall at the Yong Suan kopitiam (2 Jalan Yang Kalsom), founded in the 1950s.

Ask for the usual -- biasa -- and you'll get a plate of fluffy steamed rice served with their specialty ayam merah (a red-hued fried chicken), okra, salted egg, cucumber and a generous dollop of chilli and curry sauce.

Sar kok liew

This is a patty of yam bean and fish paste, rolled up in a bean curd sheet, and deep fried.

Yu kong hor with boiled octopus

Recommended is the wat tan hor -- kway teow immersed in a creamy egg gravy, peppered with pork slices, prawns, vegetables and lard fritters -- or yu kong hor, the dry version topped with a raw egg and then stirred in.

Either way, it isn't complete without the boiled octopus doused in garlic oil and soy sauce.

Kaya puff

Sin Eng Heong (4 Jalan Mustapha Al-Bakry) is synonymous with Ipoh's famous kaya puff -- filled with a jam made with coconut milk and egg -- and on weekends you'll see a long line outside the bakery all day.

However, the founder's son has opened his own shop, Sin Eng Hoe (50 Jalan Yau Tet Shin), nearby and assures that he uses the same recipe.

Tau fu fa

This is a dessert made of soybean curd, usually slurped hot and traditionally sweetened with ginger sugar syrup.

Funny Mountain (49 Jalan Theatre) is the name on everyone's lips, but Woong Kee (32-38A Jalan Ali Pitchay) is also a firm favorite.

WHERE TO STAY

Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat

This is the place to come for a luxurious communion with nature amid limestone hills -- yet it's just a 15-minute drive from the city.

Each villa has its own plunge pool with water piped in from the hot springs, and there are four communal garden pods.

Non-guests can pay to use the facilities.

They include a pool, a steam and sauna cave, and an air-conditioned cave to relax in. It's also possible to dine in the cave cellar, which has an extensive wine collection.

Sekeping Kong Heng

One of Ng Seksan's Sekeping collection of properties dotted around Malaysia, this hotel creates the illusion of a "retreat" in the middle of all the action.

The main quarter is located above the Kong Heng kopitiam in what was once a hostel patronized by Chinese opera troupes.

Much of the original building remains, mixed with open brick and reclaimed wood, wire fencing for bed bases and concrete sheets for walls -- melding the industrial and natural without compromising on style.

There are more rooms in an annexe next door and above the Container Hotel, as well as a pool and a rooftop hangout.