Ivydene Gardens Photo Damage to Trees in Madeira 3:Page 28 has photos of Damage to Trees in the Pavement of Funchal in Madeira from the Madeira 12601 Folder taken in January 2019in Funchal of Madeira.

Photos taken by Chris Garnons-Williams using a digital camera in the original size and as a thumbnail. These can used in the Public Domain for educational purposes in schools, or at home.

Row 1 has the Pass-Through Camera image of Thumbnail image named in Row 2 and is usually 4000 x 3000 pixels.

Row 2 has same image reduced to fit the image frame of 160 x 120 pixels as a Passthrough Thumbnail to show all of the Camera Image. This image has been reduced to 72 pixels per inch by Freeway before I stored it as a Passthrough image for use both here (from August 2019) and as the image in Plant with Photo Index of Ivydene Gardens A 1 Gallery.

Click on either image and drag to your desktop. Then you can crop the Pass-Through Camera image to obtain the particular detail that you require from that image, before using that cropped result in your endeavour.

Copying the pages and then clicking on the images to drag them may not work.

Item is Tree 101 from pestana promenade to forum tree hollow trunk IMG 6067.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsThe lateral roots are elevating the pink pavers laid on top of the ground. The trunk is also growing over them and into the road, where other roots are elevating and breaking the tarmac.

Item is Tree 101 from pestana promenade to forum tree hollow trunk IMG 6068.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsContinuation of the same problems round the back.

Item is Tree 101 from pestana promenade to forum tree IMG 6062.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsEnd of photos from madeira 12601 folder.Ah, a bijou residence for a cleaner in the Forum Shopping Centre with minimal travelling distance to get to work. Plenty of watersprouts and watershoots with 2 sets of forked leaders further up the trunk. The second forked trunk has had one of its trunks cut off and it is quite likely that there is deep rot from that branch stump wound down the trunk.Thin branches above little foliage probably due to lack of water, since the tree has taken it from those leaves to grow new leaves lower down the tree. The weight of the tree above 96 inches (240 cms) will probably be too much for the strength remaining in the heartwood between the roots and that height of 96 inches due to the inability of madeira to recognise that when heartwood rots that all the tree is left with is the water-bearing wood, cambium and bark to hold it up.

Look at 217, 218, 219 and 220 photos 6063, 6064, 6065 and 6066 on Page 27 to see the internal unnoticed damage.

Item is Tree 103 from funchal to top of hill IMG 6077.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsStart of photos from madeira 290119 folder.The concrete boundary is higher than the pavement so no rain runs off the pavement into the ground by the tree. The pavement is going downhill, so drains well. People stand on the roots to have a cigarette and then leave it there. Although the marble blocks are embedded in the ground, very little rain seeps down to the soil in between because of that slope and you notice that the tree trunk bark is splitting off - this is because the tree is dehydrating and not increasing in size which would be indicated by seeing young bark within those cracks.

Hopefully my solutions would also stop people using the tree's ground as an ashtray.

Item is Tree 104 from funchal to top of hill IMG 6078.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsThis tree is also shedding its bark - most of the trees in the pavement on this hill are dehydrated and urgently need my solution to the mosaic pavement problem to survive. It lateral root is above ground and held in the concrete boundary. The tree is getting to overflow its enclosure, which would not be a problem with my solution system.

Hopefully my solutions would also stop people using the tree's ground as an ashtray.

Item is Tree 104 from funchal to top of hill IMG 6079.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsIt is possible that a branch was ripped off from the top and it brought a long strip of bark with it. The heartwood is drying out, splitting and rotting.

Carry on ignoring it and it will fall down.

Item is Tree 105 from funchal to top of hill IMG 6080.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsAnother dehydrated tree and pedestrians using the ground as an ashtray.

Item is Tree 105 from funchal to top of hill with wires through foliage IMG 6082.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsThe left hand wire appears to be reasonably clear of most of the foliage whereas the right hand one comes up to the horizontalm branch where it may be tied before going straight up the photo. Whose are they? Who is responsible for them? Who is responsible for putting right either the damage to the tree or to the wire in a storm?

Item is Tree 105 from funchal to top of hill with wires through foliage IMG 6083.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsCloseup of 2 wires in this tree. What are they doing? Are they braces or electrical?

Item is Tree 105 from funchal to top of hill with wires through foliage IMG 6084.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsPerhaps the grey one is telephone and the other cable tv. A bit unfair to expect a juvenile branch to take the strain as the branch that it is attached to moves in a high wind. Especially, as the branch stump has not been protected and it has dried out and started to split. It looks as though these wires have been tied to this position in the fork between the juvenile branch and the branch it comes from using plastic twine. That will be forced into the bark and then cut off the cambium layer before that branch going up on the right dies off and becomes a dead weight on the rest of the tree. A pity that cable layers are not informed of the consequences of what they are doing. A bungee would at least have done the job and would stretch with the growing tree.

Good to see a street light that close to the tree foliage!!!

Item is Tree 106 from funchal to top of hill new tree with root at ground level IMG 6085.JPGtaken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-WilliamsThis tree is in a bad way besides being very dehydrated. Its ground is being used as an ashtray and stood on. Its roots are being trod on and sometime a thin layer of concrete was poured over the ground to tidy it up, which has now broken up.

To add to the joy felt by this tree sections of the marble have been pointed with concrete to deprive it of water etc.

THIS TREE DOES NOT STAND A CHANCE, THE WAY YOU ARE TREATING IT AND HAVE DONE FOR DONKEY'S YEARS.

I have copied the archived post below, because what is stated there is extremely important, since 99.99% of gardeners in the UK totally ignore the fact that plants require humus and think that double-digging is beneficial every year. That is why they are killing their soil and their plants do not grow well.

"Nature’s plan is to build up the humus year after year and this can only be done by organic matter. There is need to replace and return that which has been taken out. The Chinese, who are the best gardeners, collect, ‘use’, and return to the soil, every possible kind of waste, vegetable, animal and human. In over 4000 years of intensive cultivation they still support more human beings per hectare than any other country in the world! On the other hand in areas like the Middle West of the U.S.A. and the Regina Plain of Canada, where the Wheel of Life has not been recognized, tens of thousands of hectares which once grew heavy crops are now useless, or practically so.

Every flower crop grown reduces the organic content of the ground. Every piece of work done helps to break down the humus. The value of the soil in your garden, therefore, is not the mica particles or grains of sand. It lies in the humus that the soil contains. Humus makes all the difference to successful gardening. Have plenty of humus present and the soil is in good tilth. Humus is the organic colloid of the soil. It can store water, it can store plant foods, it can help to keep the soil open. It can help to ensure the right aeration. It will give ideal insulation against heat and cold.

Using Compost

Garden owners proposing to dig their land shallowly in preparation for flower growing, should realize the importance of adding ample quantities of organic matter before they start. Composted farmyard manure, fine wool shoddy, properly composted vegetable refuse, or hop manure should be added at the rate of one good barrow-load to 10 m2 (12 sq yds) and in addition into the top 25 or 50 mm (1 or 2 in) of soil finely divided sedge peat, non-acid in character should be raked in at about half a bucketful (9 litres) per square metre (2 gallons per sq yd). This organic matter in the top few millimetres of soil gives the little roots a good start and so sends them on to find the organic matter below.

It is when the organic content of the soil has been helped in this way, that the gardener dares to add plant foods of an organic origin. These are usually applied on the surface of the ground and raked in. Fertilizers with an organic base are particularly useful. Fish Manure may be applied at 105 to 140 g/m2 (3 oz to 4 oz per sq yd), or a meat and bone meal or even hoof and horn meal mixed with equal quantities of wood ashes may be used at a similar rate. These plant foods can be supplied not only when the flower garden is first made but every season very early in the spring. A good dried poultry manure to which a little potash has been added is another fertilizer that is very useful when applied at this time.

Minimum Digging

Flower growers must realize that proper soil treatment is the first essential to success. The millions and millions of soil bacteria that live in the ground to help the gardener, much appreciate little or no digging. It enables them to work better, for they need conditions which are natural. So do give them what they need.

Liming

Lime should be regarded as an essential except in very definite cases where acidity is demanded, e.g. the heaths and heathers, rhododendrons and azaleas.

Lime not only prevents soil from being acid but it ‘sweetens’ it, as well as playing its part as a plant food. It improves the texture and workability of heavy soils. It helps to release other plant foods, and it decomposes organic compounds in the soil so that they can be used as plant food also.

Generally speaking it should be applied at about 245 g/m2 (7 oz per sq yd). It should not be dug in, as it washes down into the soil very quickly. It should be sprinkled on the surface of the ground after the digging and manuring has been done. Do not mix lime with organic fertilizers. There are three main types of lime: Quicklime, sometimes sold as Buxton Lime or Lump Lime, which has to be slaked down on the soil; Chalk or Limestone, often sold as Ground Limestone, only half as valuable as quicklime; and Hydrated Lime, which is perhaps the most convenient to handle and is therefore most usually used by gardeners.The quantity of lime mentioned previously i.e. 245 g/m2 (7 oz per sq yd), refers to hydrated lime."

The following is the opinion of Chris Garnons-Williams to the above:-

If you walk through an old wooded area, which is not intensively managed, you will see dead leaves on the ground, together with fallen branches, brambles, nettles, other weeds and juvenile plants. There will be waste material from birds and animals and this has not been cleared up and disposed of. This mulch then provides the organic material to be recycled via the ground with its different organisms to the roots of those same trees for them to continue to grow. Nobody digs up the ground to push this material in a few inches or to the depth of the topsoil, nature does it with earthworms and other organisms at the rate required by the organisms down below to then use it. The trees in this wood then grow fairly uniformly using the available resources.

So, do not dig the manure, wool shoddy, vegetable refuse or hop manure or anything else in. Leave it on top as a mulch and that includes the organic fertilizers and the lime. Instead of adding finely divided sedge peat, add spent mushroom compost which contains peat which has already been used; and so you are using their waste product for recycling, instead of destroying more peat bogs which have taken 1000's of years to be created. You could use bracken instead of peat.

The topsoil is full of organisms, either the waste products from are used by another or they are. If you turn them up from the bottom of the topsoil to the top, then those new top ones will starve to death and the ones who were at the top are now at the bottom and they will as well since it is only waste down there which is not their normal fare. They do have a bus transport system to get them back to their original levels, since water is the only transport system down there, which unfortunately normally goes downwards.

So why do you not use the companion planting cultivation method as further detailed in Companion Planting? You may follow this with the following which is normally used for the vegetable garden:-

"Spinach is sown in spring in rows 50cm apart over the whole vegetable garden area for the following purposes:

these rows divide the vegetable garden up for the whole year,

the spinach roots prevent erosion, so the usual paths between beds are omitted,

young spinach plants provide protection and shade for the vegetable crops to be grown between them,

spinach provides ideal material for sheet surface composting, which becomes an intermediate space, a footpath, and

it is in between these lines of spinach that the other vegetable varieties are arranged."

This could be used in the flower beds as the system between the permanent plants of trees, shrubs and perennials, which is where you may put bedding. This will also provide you with access to the bedding and the permanent plants together with the nitrogen fertilizer for the other plants from the legumes of spinach. You plant your bedding, bulbs or vegetables through the mulch between the lines of spinach. The damage you do to where you plant is fairly quickly repaired by the organisms in the surrounding soil, who each come into the level below the ground level where they normally reside, until they meet their relatives on the other side of the planting hole. The ecosystem is then restored. The ecosystem is like a fast-food restaurant where much of the menu are the others in the soil, but each organism eating has a particular range of organism that he/she eats - unfortunately it is usually only the other organisms that live at the same level in the soil as they do and so if the soil is totally mixed up, then they are likely to starve and die out. There are 31 species of earthworm known to occur in natural environments within the British Isles, each of which has a different job, so that if you transfer 1 from its environment to a different environment of a different earthworm it may well die out. Further details from The Earthworm Society of Britain.

#6 Read About Ways to Install Trees - Edited by Len Phillips, updated October 2018 (The gibneyCE.com website was designed to offer continuing education (CE) opportunities to landscape architects and related fields looking to improve their knowledge and skills while fulfilling professional CE requirements to maintain valid registration / certification.)

"Summary of Common Options for Installing TreesTrees can be purchased for planting in several different ways. It is possible to plant some species at any time of the year depending upon the choices of nursery stock and installation methods. Those in hard plastic containers or boxes are most resistant to abusive handling; those in soft, fabric containers and those that are B&B (balled & burlapped) are most sensitive.

Bare root (BR) trees are dug and stored without any soil around their roots. Bare root trees are usually installed while dormant and are ideal for the challenges of urban environments. The BR method utilizes trees up to two inches in caliper and can be substituted for the B&B tree at half the cost while still offering excellent rates of survival and growth. BR trees are becoming more popular by municipalities because of their lower purchase price, lower installation cost, and ease of handling. However, BR tree roots are susceptible to drying out and must be kept moist at all times before planting.

B&B trees and shrubs are dug with a firm ball of soil around the roots and held securely in place with burlap, twine, and usually a wire basket. The soil ball protects tree roots from water stress during the transplant process. Field-grown plants are best moved while they are dormant. B&B trees are generally produced for homes, parks, and street tree installation projects. The vast majority of B&B trees are dug at less than 4" trunk diameter but larger trees are dug this way as well and boxed rather than wrapped in burlap. The biggest disadvantage of B&B is the tendency to cut corners during the installation process and not remove the burlap and wire basket. This action usually causes death to the tree within 10 years.

Containerized trees are convenient and less expensive than B&B trees. They can be installed anytime the ground is not frozen and are usually easier to handle than B&B or BR trees. Shoot and trunk growth appear to be similar between B&B and BR trees. Containerized trees appear to be more susceptible to desiccation, death, and slower growth until they become established if the roots are not kept moist after the installation. They have a similar survival rate to a BR tree because there is a high root regeneration capacity. However, container trees also have the highest probability of root malformation, which can lead to girdling roots, instability, and a shortened life span.

Grow Bags are about half the volume of the root balls of field-grown trees, which makes them easier to handle. Research shows that because the root ball is smaller, there is less water storage capacity. This makes grow bag trees more sensitive to desiccation immediately after digging than are B&B trees grown directly in the nursery.

Tree Spade dug trees are dug, lifted, and transported in less time than any other method. Hydraulic systems operate digging blades that cut the roots and lift the tree in a cone shaped root ball. The tree spade tree is then transported to the new site and inserted into a previously dug hole. Many nurseries use a tree spade to dig the tree and then set it aside where the B&B crew can remove surplus soil and wrap the roots in burlap. In the time that the tree spade has been around, it has all but put an end to the old-fashioned hand or backhoe dug procedure required for B&B trees.

Installing B&B Trees

It takes only a short time to install a tree, but how it is done can have a lasting impact. Mistakes made during the installation process can cause the tree to die prematurely or struggle for many years and never reach its full potential. One way to prevent problems is to install a properly dug tree, Balled and Burlapped (B&B). B&B is also called Balled in Burlap. B&B trees and shrubs are dug during dormancy with a firm ball of soil around the roots and held securely in place with burlap, twine, and usually a wire basket.

Digging the Tree

B&B trees grown in the field are dug with a soil ball surrounding a large number of roots. The ball of soil is contained by burlap that is secured with nails, string, and/or wire. Natural burlap is the preferred material because it will deteriorate in the soil within a few months after installing the tree. Synthetic burlap is occasionally used on root balls, so that the nursery operator can dig the tree several months prior to installing it in the landscape. This pre-digging helps the tree harden off and survive the transplanting into the landscape. Synthetic burlap however, should all be removed from the root ball, or at least from the upper portion of the ball because it will not deteriorate for several years. There are many reports of synthetic burlap preventing root growth out of the root ball.

One other caution at this point in the digging process deals with the location of the structural roots. There should be two or more of these roots within 1 – 3 inches (2.5 – 7.5 cm) of the soil surface. “First order lateral roots”, “top-most roots”, and “main order roots” are other terms that have been used to describe these roots. The best time to determine root depth is while tagging the trees, before they are dug. If the roots are deeper than 3 inches (7.5 cm), consider rejecting the stock, as the ball of roots will be undersized. This means that if a rootball is dug 18 inches deep, but the top 6 inches is soil piled over the structural roots, then you are only getting 12 inches of roots, which may be too small to support the tree. Fortunately, the nursery industry has recognized this problem and the 2014 edition of the American Standard for Nursery Stock (ANSI Z60.1) has been revised to fix this problem. The complete Standard is available online from American Hort.

Burlap Cautions

If the root balls are hard and are laced on the sides like an old-fashioned drum, they were dug with the whole root ball intact. There should be no circling or crossing roots visible and the trunk should not wobble in the soil ball. If the burlap is tied on top or the ball is soft, the tree may have been dug bare-root and stuck into the burlap with some soil. This means that you are probably purchasing a bare root tree at the higher B&B price. If the tree appears to be B&B dug but the ball is soft, perhaps it was damaged during delivery. In this situation, reject the tree because it will have very poor chance of survival.

Installation Hole

According to the latest research, B&B trees do best if installed in a large installation area. Loosen the soil in the hole down to the depth of the tree’s root system, and horizontally to a distance of at least three times the length of the roots or the radius of the root ball. Loosening the surrounding soil prior to planting eliminates any compacted soil, and speeds recovery from transplant shock because the roots can quickly grow into the loosened soil.

Root Ball and Basket

The latest research recommends that if the tree has been drum laced, it is to be left intact to support the tree during the initial establishment period, provided that the drum lacing is made of a biodegradable material and it can be removed within a few months. The trees should be in low-profile baskets, which have larger openings designed to overcome concerns about future root strangulation. Also because all the wires are below the top of the root ball, these baskets are not tripping hazards. If low-profile baskets are not available, remove all basket wires down 4-6 inches (10 – 15 cm) below the root ball shoulder to eliminate the wires most likely to make contact with the structural roots. The proper method of handling the basket is to lift the tree from the bottom, not from the basket. To prevent breaking any tree roots, take extra care not to loosen or break the soil ball.

B&B trees can be stored prior to installation for a period of time, provided the trees are all set close together with the root balls touching. The balls should be covered with mulch and watered thoroughly. If the root balls dry out, this will be fatal. If installation is in clayey soil, use trees with a clayey root ball to prevent the root balls from drying out. Or, remove most of the soil from the root ball and install the tree into the clay soil, bare root.

Installation

Before any installation occurs, carefully set the tree in the hole at or slightly higher than it was at the nursery. Begin the installation by backfilling layers of soil around the root ball until one-half of the planting hole is full. Then, all burlap and the top one-third of the wire basket can be removed from the root ball. No burlap should remain above the soil surface as it may act as a wick and dry the root ball. Next, provide the first watering and jiggle the tree slightly to allow the soil to contact the roots. As soon as the water has drained away, backfilling can be completed and a second thorough watering is absolutely essential for the newly installed tree. Water will settle the soil and remove air pockets better than compacting the soil with one’s feet. Tamping can cause soil compaction and slow water penetration and root growth.

Although the trees are being transplanted with only 5% of the roots taken with the tree, pruning half of the tree leaves to compensate for the root loss is no longer recommended. The buds on the branches produce hormones that cause the roots to grow and the leaves produce the sugar energy needed by growing roots, so removing those buds and leaves will slow the establishment of new roots. It is better to keep the roots well watered and growing than to remove the food source for the tree.

Evergreens should not be installed late in the fall unless the roots will have a full month to become established before the ground freezes and there is plenty of soil water available for winter use by the tree. When soil water is frozen, the tree experiences drought like conditions.

Pruning

If pruning was done correctly during production in the nursery, the tree should require very little pruning when being installed, except for removing broken twigs. Wait a couple of years for the tree to establish before starting structural pruning. The transplanting shock often causes the tree to respond with co-dominant leaders. When this happens, the two year wait before pruning is an advantage because the co-dominant leaders will be visible and one leader can be removed during the structural pruning effort.

Watering

In the first year or two, it is important to keep the root ball moist, but not over-watered. The root ball soil is the major source of water for the tree until the root system redevelops. During this period, monitor the moisture in the root ball. The surrounding soils where there are few roots absorbing moisture often stay moist while the root ball quickly dries out.

The use of tree watering bags is gaining popularity, because they deliver water to the right place and the right amount. They are also helpful in reducing labor costs for watering. But we know very little about heat buildup on the trunk under the empty bag. An empty bag may also deflect rainwater away from the base of the tree. It is best to remove the bags during the winter months so they will not harbor pests. They should be used for no more than two growing seasons before the bags are moved on to new trees.

Throughout the warm, summer weather, the tree will need the equivalent of 1 inch (2.5 cm) of rain per week and this water needs to be applied about twice each week. Approximately 5-10 gallons (20 – 40 liters) of water is sufficient to moisten a 20-inch (50 cm) diameter root ball. A 40-inch (100 cm) diameter root ball has more than twice the volume and would require 35-45 gallons (130 – 170 liters).

Another way to measure water need is with the following formula: The tree needs 5 gallons minimum and 5 additional gallons per inch of diameter (DBH); hence a 3 inch DBH tree needs 20 gallons of water per week to equal 1 inch of rainfall, in other words, 5 gallons minimum + (3 X 5) 15 gallons = 20 gallons.

Trunk Protection

Plastic guards can help to protect trunks from mowers, weed whips, and other mechanical injuries. If used, they must be removed before the trunk grows large enough to be damaged by the guards. Where sunscald or frost cracks are common, the trunks of thin and/or smooth-barked trees are sometimes wrapped to prevent injury from winter sun. The preferred wraps are light in color, porous to water, and biodegradable, and should be removed early in the spring.

Stabilizing

Staking, guying, or bracing refer to mechanically supporting the trunk of a newly installed tree to keep it in an upright position. Staking is usually unnecessary for quality trees and properly installed B&B stock. If the root ball is in good condition and has been stabilized by firming the soil around the base with two waterings, the tree is not likely to lean or shift. The exceptions where staking is needed might include very windy sites, sandy root balls, or the potential for vandalism.

According to the latest research, staking is being discouraged and root stabilization is a far better option. Root stabilizers consist of metal devices that hold the root ball firmly at the bottom of the planting pit. These stabilizers are usually hidden by the surface layer of mulch. Removal is optional especially since most of the stabilizers are bio-degradable and disappear after a couple of years. Some products may be pulled up at the end of the first growing season and recycled to new installations. The research has proven that former practice of stacking often cause the tree to break where it was tied to the stake. Many other times the ties were never removed and the tree became girdled. These problems will not occur with root stabilizers. For more information on stabilization click here.

Mulching

Once the soil is added to level with the flare, mulch the entire planting circle to conserve soil moisture. The depth will vary with the mulch texture. Finer particle mulch should be 2 inches (5 cm) thick or less, while coarse mulch should be 4 inches (10 cm) thick or less. The mulch should start at least 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) from the trunk of the tree. The mulch layer should be 1-3 inches (2-7 cm) deep after settling, depending on the size of the tree. Mulch should not be allowed to cover the base of the trunk.

Mulch is often incorrectly piled up to 1 ft. (30 cm) deep in a small cone only about 3 ft. (90 cm) wide around the tree. This is sometimes called “volcano mulch”. Volcano mulch is of little benefit to the roots, sheds water, can be potentially damaging to the trunk, and it is aesthetically unpleasant. Sometimes volcano mulch may be covering up a bad installation job or using up the left over mulch after mulching the landscape, a practice that is very wasteful.

Fertilization

Drought stress limits the growth of newly installed trees more than any other factor. Until the root system can grow and absorb more water, adding fertilizer to the soil is likely to be ineffective and can be detrimental to root establishment. Fertilizer will cauterize the new developing roots and prohibit their growth. It can act like salt, slowing the movement of water into the roots. Fast acting fertilizer also stimulates the growth of leaves over roots, further aggravating drought like conditions. Fertilizer packets that release fertilizer very slowly, on the other hand, can be beneficial. By the time the packets decompose, the tree has recovered from transplant shock and can take advantage of the available fertilizer.

Pros of B&B Installation

• B&B stock is often the most expensive option, but if handled and installed properly, they are as reliable as container grown stock.

• The most commonly selected form of nursery grown trees is the B&B tree.

• For street plantings, B&B is the style most often used.

• Fine roots are not disturbed, leading to success and low transplant shock.

• People and contractors installing trees are most familiar with B&B installation.

• Large size plant material may be moved B&B.

Cons of B&B Installation

• B&B trees are often dug with too much soil over the flare and main structural roots.

• Because of the weight of the soil ball, large B&B trees can be difficult to transport and install without special equipment.

• B&B trees are subject to water stress because of the loss of at least 75% of their root system when they were dug, and the lack of root systems being transplanted.

• There is a possibility that there could be a soil incompatibility between the soil in the root ball and the soil where the tree is expected to grow. "

If B&B Trees are installed as detailed above, then why not replace all the existing concrete, marble, tarmac pavement with CEDAdrive to give the new trees and the old ones in the pavement access to irrigation, application of nourishment like crushed seaweed in the irrigation water and gaseous exchange, while still keeping Mosaic Pavements in using 10mm pea shingle of either white or black marble as the filler to create the intricate designs over the whole pavement? Another layer of geotextile under the sheets will guarantee that no tree root will get above it. The levelling layer under the geotextile will be 50mm deep of either CEDAgrit, sharp sand or similar igneous stone 6mm and the tree roots can grow into this both for the lateral roots and the feeder roots. One assumes that the sub-base is allready there, since cars currently drive over the pavement to the drive of their house. A Bell Bollard every 60 inches (150 cms) adjacent to the pavement edge would deter lorries, coaches, vans and cars from parking on the pavement and crushing the roots of the trees. Combine these bell bollards with No Parking on verge or footway signs every 600 inches (15 metres), so that vehicles do not drive round the back and then park on the pavement between the bell bollards and the other edge of the pavement. Your Logo Here could be "Funchal Parking Cost here 300 Euros/Minute". Employ traffic wardens with video cameras, so that charges can be correctly calculated.

Topic - Camera Photo Galleries showing all 4000 x 3000 pixels of each photo on your screen that you can then click and drag to your desktop:-