The one trend that continues to lazily undercut fashion circles is the sloppy, low-meets-high athleisure trend. From gray sweat moments at Club Monaco to Pyer Moss’ athletic office style, the mark of movement clothing for non-movers remained. These moments of athleisure aren’t as grating as they have been but they suggest a strange luxury problem: the rich are co-opting style from the non-rich. Athleisure has evolved to branded style which is poor people drag.

It’s not new though. Contemporary, sure, but not new. Vetements perfected couture branding by remixing corporate iconography and gaming the system for advancement. The move set a trend that is exploding all over the place, from fashion houses instead of celebrities adopting (poor) brands to make a statement. They all laugh at the less fortunate instead of with them. They don’t hold culture accountable: they take advantage, just like Wang taking a bite from a free fry that he could have easily afforded.

To this, there is always an example of where branded and sponsored culture excels: from those who actually see what is going on. Shayne Oliver’s Hood By Air has done that, a brand whose showing at fashion week inserted their point of view into the asshole of recent branded fashion culture. HBA made the rebrand, marking their clothing with their logo and moniker as a means to define themselves, a reaction based in invention and working class origins. To topple it all over this week, HBA fed the branded whores by literally calling them what they are: branded whores. Instead of tapping McDonalds™ or Juicy Couture™, they got their show sponsored by PornHub™ with nods to Hustler™. It’s a highbrow form of shade, a lubed hand slapping privilege in the face. It makes brands like Vetements and Alexander Wang look like assholes by checking their entitlement.

With that, there’s a reason why HBA doesn’t do athleisure: that is their origin, a beginning, a reminder of those who actually do wear athletic clothing or can only afford athletic clothing. Why would they riff on poor culture when that joke is only funny to people born into money? Branded fashion is poor drag, a reminder that these things that we need—clothing and food products that are common—can always be remade out of our reach, to remind us of our place.