Born in Cuba during the early 1900s as an adaptation of a cocktail called the Draque, the Mojito embodies the flavors of the tropics. However, Mojitos are so alluring that they are more than just a hot-weather drink.

Traditionally, the Mojito is a rum-based cocktail, bursting with fresh lime,

mint and sugar muddled together and topped with ice and a touch of soda water.

However, variations are almost as numerous as the bars in the Bay Area. Simple syrups made from caramelized sugar, cane syrup and powdered sugar are just a few of the choices used to sweeten the mojito. Some use Rose's sweetened lime juice in place of fresh, and additions such as triple sec and peach schnapps have even been known to make occasional appearances.

For our tests, we started with a basic recipe of 10 to 12 mint leaves, the juice from 1 lime, 2 tablespoons of simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water heated until the sugar dissolves), 2 ounces rum, ice and 3 to 4 ounces of soda water.

The procedure is almost as important as the ingredients - the mint, simple syrup and lime juice are placed in a glass and mashed several times with a wooden muddler, a device resembling a miniature baseball bat that is used to press down on the mint, bruising it. Add rum, ice, soda water and stir: The Mojito is born.

To create our Best Way Mojito, we first tried various rums - Bacardi Superior, Bacardi Limon and Myers's Original Dark. We chose these as representatives of the different styles of rum on the market. We found Bacardi Limon most appealing because of the subtle hints of lemon that helped the flavors of mint and lime shine through. One Food Department taster likened the taste of Limo Mojito to the zip of a sports car and the others to mere compact sedans.

Our next step was to find a sweetener. We experimented with two sugar cubes,

simple syrup, cane syrup and a simple syrup with some added molasses. Tasters quickly ousted the sugar cubes and cane syrup. Lines blurred some between the simple syrup and the molasses syrup, however. About half of the tasters liked the clean flavors of the simple syrup, while others liked the sweetness brought out by the molasses.

Tasters had a difficult time distinguishing between a Mojito made with fresh lime and one with Rose's sweetened lime juice, but we settled on fresh lime with the thought that those who want a sweeter drink could add more simple syrup.

Our final task was to experiment with the procedure. In addition to the traditional method, we tried two others. For the first, we muddled the ingredients, added ice and rum and shook everything in a cocktail shaker, then strained it over fresh ice. Next, we did away with muddling altogether and simply shook everything like a martini. Tradition reigned supreme - the strained Mojito tasted flat and the non-muddled version was too bitter.

THE BEST MOJITO

Muddlers can be found in many kitchen supply stores; but if you can't find one, simply use the handle of a wooden spoon.

INGREDIENTS:

10 to 12 fresh mint leaves

Juice of 1 lime

1 1/2 ounces simple syrup, or 2 to 3 tablespoons ultrafine sugar

Ice

2 ounces Bacardi Limon rum

Soda water

Lime wedge and sprig of mint for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS: Put the mint in a pint glass, then add the lime juice and simple syrup. Gently mash with a muddler or the handle of a wooden spoon until the mint begins to bruise and its essence rises from the glass.

Put ice in the glass. Add the rum, then fill with soda water. Stir with a long spoon, lifting the mint so it disperses throughout the drink.