Probiotics are “body-friendly” bacteria that help balance our “good” and “bad” bacteria to help strengthen the immune system and support the body’s ability to remain healthy. Probiotics are live bacterial culture that, when applied topically, influence the composition of skin microflora. The first mention of topical probiotics as a therapeutic treatment for skin conditions appeared in the medical literature in 1912, and was termed “topical bacteriotherapy.” It was not until 1999 that researchers were able to hone-in on exactly how probiotic application to the skin might improve dermatological health. They found that S. thermophilus, a species of probiotic typically found in yogurt increased ceramide production in keratinocytes, the cells that create our skin, strengthening the lipid barrier of the skin and make it more resilient to dryness.1

The cosmetic industry studied probiotic technology for nearly 15 years; finally, in 2017, researchers understand how it can help skin, according to New York City-based dermatologist Whitney Bowe MD. Recently there have also been an increasing number of skin care products entering the market touting probiotics. In this column, we will briefly review the science supporting the use of topical probiotics in skin care products.

Clinical Studies

Research has shown that the bacteria in our gut interacts with the immune system, which results in changes in skin. Harmful bacteria in the gut can lead to inflammation like redness, acne and rosacea. It is advisable to incorporate foods and drinks that are rich in probiotics, like yogurt, miso soup, sauerkraut and Kombucha (fermented tea).

Some prefer to take a probiotic supplement, too. Using a topical probiotic is beneficial, as it offers a protective shield and triggers the production of natural moisturizers in the skin. The October issue of Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology published research findings that middle-aged adults showed improved skin hydration and elasticity and reduced wrinkles after taking a clinical dosage of oral probiotic supplement Lactobacillus plantarum for 12 weeks.

“Scientists are just starting to discern what constitutes a normal, healthy skin microbiome,” said Alan C. Logan, an independent researcher and co-author of “Your Brain on Nature.”

It is clear, however that the microbes residing on healthy skin make important contributions to the proper barrier maintenance. They also interact with the immune system and protect against harmful bacteria. A cream containing the lysate of S. thermophiles was found to significantly increase stratum corneum ceramide levels in healthy females after two weeks of application.2 Skin hydration was also improved following use of probiotic lysate-containing cream.

Through the fermentation process, probiotic bacteria produce acidic compounds like lactic acid, reducing the pH of the skin. The skin microbiome is influenced by pH, sebum content, barrier function and hydration.3 A slight acidic pH favors the growth of proprionbacterium, it discourages the growth of most pathogens. Probiotic strains produce potent antimicrobials such as bacteriocidins, organic acids that prevent pathogen adhesion while more alkaline pH encourages the majority of resident species.
Proprionbacterum species are more plentiful where sebaceous glands are present. Dry areas of the skin have the greatest diversity of species while having the lowest absolute number of bacteria. Furthermore, extrinsic factors such as geographic location, occupation and the use of antibiotics or cosmetics can influence skin microbiodata.4

Studies indicate that alterations in skin microflora play a significant role in conditions such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and skin cancer.5 Researchers6 demonstrated that a cream containing 10% B. Longum lysate improved sensitive skin after two months compared to vehicle control. There was a reduction in stinging after lactic acid, as well as an improvement in clinical dryness. In vitro studies on B. Longum lysate suggest, that it may reduce skin sensitivity by reducing neuron reactivity and neuron accessibility.7

Products and Benefits

Although probiotic bacteria have documented skin benefits, live cultures are generally not preferred in cosmetics. Rather than including live bacteria cultures, many of the probiotic skin care formulae use bacteria fragments or metabolites. The reason is that there is not currently any science developed to support the idea that live cells are any more effective when applied to the skin than these fragments. In near future, some brands using live bacteria might emerge.

In 2013, the American Academy of Dermatology proposed the use of probiotics in the treatment of rosacea.8 Prebiotics are non-digestible, plant-based carbohydrates that discourage the growth of pathogens while preserving beneficial bacteria. Prebiotics can be incorporated into skin care products and are an excellent alternative to live bacteria.9 Bacterial lysates are also used in cosmetic formulations. Bacterial cell lysates provide broad biologic activity that can be harnessed to provide skin benefits. Skin care products containing these are well positioned for treating conditions characterized by an altered microflora. Cosmetics containing probiotics may also be helpful for improving skin health and beauty.10 According to Dr. Erin Gilbert MD, Ph.D., probiotics are one of the most cutting edge concepts in skin care today. Probiotics based topical products address and correct a multitude of skin conditions including premature aging, acne, hypersensitivity, dullness, rosacea and inflammation. Probiotics when taken internally help with the health of digestive and immune system. It is beneficial in all skin types. Probiotics have proven themselves to be a powerful tool to achieve healthy, balanced and radiant skin.

Yun Company just launched (April 2017) to the European market two products contain live probiotics: ACN and ACN + creams with probiotic microcapsules. The probiotic bacteria are first deactivated and then stabilized by microencapsulation. Encapsulating the bacteria provide protection against the adverse environmental conditions in cosmetic formulations, thereby improving viability. The performance of the probiotic ingredient can be negatively affected by the preservative and emulsification system in the cosmetic product. Microcapsules provide protection. When product is applied topically, the microcapsules burst and deliver the probiotic. These products are packaged in airless tubes to prevent oxidative damage and are proven to last between six months to a year with no chemicals added to preserve the formulation. All products are biome friendly and they do not need refrigeration.

More and more companies are now entering the probiotic market including L’Oréal and Estée Lauder.Clinique’s Redness Solutions foundation, for example features lactobacillus to reduce flushing by balancing the skin’s pH. The British brand Aurelia is built around bifidobacteria, which is said to strengthen the skin’s barrier, and Elizabeth Arden’s SuperStart Renewal Booster contains a probiotic blend believed to boost skin’s natural defenses.

More Study Ahead

In cosmetics, there is no standardized definition of probiotics and this makes it very difficult for consumers to really understand what to expect from a cosmetic product carrying a probiotic label. The health of our skin comes from deep within us. In recent years, study of the microbiome has led to innovations in medicine and health, including dermatology. The clinical studies conducted with topical prebiotics, probiotics and bacterial cell lysates do provide demonstrable skin benefits. It appears that more studies are warranted to confirm these skin benefits.

Navin Geria, former Pfizer Research Fellow is a cosmetic and pharmaceutical product development chemist and the chief scientific officer of AyurDerm Technologies LLC, which provides Ayurvedic, natural and cosmeceutical custom formulation development and consulting services to the spa-wellness-dermatology industries. He has launched dozens of cosmeceutical and ayurvedic anti-aging products. Geria has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Clairol, Warner-Lambert, Schick-Energizer, Bristol-Myers and Spa Dermaceuticals. He has nearly 20 US patents and has been published extensively. Geria edited the “Handbook of Skin-Aging Theories for Cosmetic Formulation Development” focus book published in April 2016 by Harry’s Cosmeticology. He is a speaker, moderator and chairman at cosmetic industry events.

From a relatively small base, the cosmetics antioxidant market is growing more slowly than the global beauty supplement market as a whole. According to Marketandmarkets.com, the cosmetics antioxidant market is projected to grow from $109.0 million in…

Many health conscious consumers understand the value of antioxidant supplements and topicals. Allied Market Research has estimated the global antioxidants market generated $2.92 billion in 2015 and predicted it would reach $4.53 billion by 2022, regi…

Global sales of collagen products are expected to reach $9.3 billion by 2023 and the market for nutricosmetics will be worth $7.4 billion by 2020 driven, in part, by an aging population and a growing acceptance of functional foods, according to a rep…

Stem cells are found in both plants and animals. They divide and can differentiate into a range of cell types. It is this regenerative property of plant stem cells that has captured the imagination of cosmetic researchers. In this column, we will bri…

Ayurveda is fast-becoming a preferred lifestyle option around the world, and it is poised for a quantum leap today as Western companies realize its potential and Western consumers realize its benefits. Ayurveda is the age-old science of well-being, w…

Consumers go to great lengths to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. MIT researchers took a very scientific approach to this problem and created a cream with impressive anti-wrinkle results. This column will briefly review the chemistry and benefits o…

Consumers prefer cosmetic formulas that are promoted for their antioxidant properties, according to Packaged Facts, a market research company. In recent years, retail sales of these products exceeded $4 billion, with skin care products accounting for…

Ceramides are the major component of the skin’s surface. They protect against moisture loss to keep skin youthful, supple and nourish the skin from within. In this column, we will briefly review the science of ceramides and how they improve agi…

When it comes to slowing the signs of aging, consumers just can’t wait. The number of consumers getting botulinum toxin injections skyrocketed more than 700% since 2000, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. The desire for visi…

Natural product positioning has enjoyed continued popularity with brands looking to nature for concept ingredients such as stem cells and botanical extracts. This column will briefly explore moisturizing benefit-offering plant oils that are generatin…

Cookies help us to provide you with an excellent service. By using our website, you declare yourself in agreement with our use of cookies. You can obtain detailed information about the use of cookies on our website by clicking on "More information”.