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At Jean-Claude Baker’s lively homage to his adopted mother, Josephine Baker, the welcome’s so warm, it feels like a homecoming, and the piano is live every night. Bistro standbysóboeuf bourguignonne, deftly cooked salmonóare good enough. Southern fried chicken is fabulous, and le délice Josephine delivers paradise in chocolate.
— Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld