One of the most anticipated Denver restaurant openings in months recently launched: The Squeaky Bean has put down roots in LoDo in the historic Saddlery building.

And the new menu should establish chef Max MacKissock as one of the most dynamic people in any Colorado kitchen.

The food is exceptional, including a squash dish that uses all parts of the vegetable, including the blossom, in a way that echoes the snout-to-tail takes on pork so popular with chefs of late. Another winner: bone marrow with chargrilled octopus.

The Bean had operated to acclaim in the Highland neighborhood until June 2011, when it closed to gear up for the refurbished room in LoDo. Check out the original beams in the photo: Those are 8×12 slabs of lumber, left exposed to meet historic preservation codes.

The kitchen is also a major expansion on the old one in the Highland location, which was a smaller set-up than what’s found in the average college kid’s dorm room.

Owner Johnny Ballen is justifiably proud. “I can’t tell you how excited we are,” he said on a recent evening, a day before the restaurant landed its liquor license. “This is what we’ve been working towards. It’s our dream.”