Rode the Rune at the Verbier trails yesterday. Everytime I bring it to serious terrain, I´m verry impressed what this bike can handle and how composed it feels at speed even in the gnar! I love this bike!

Will the rear triangle of the Darkside fit the Rune? I only ask because it looks like the chainstays on the DS do not drop as low as the Rune's and I'm assuming that'd mean I'd be able to clock my chain guide a little better? Plus it just looks sleeker than the Rune's...

Will the rear triangle of the Darkside fit the Rune? I only ask because it looks like the chainstays on the DS do not drop as low as the Rune's and I'm assuming that'd mean I'd be able to clock my chain guide a little better? Plus it just looks sleeker than the Rune's...

Rune rear triangle

Darkside rear triangle

the rune is 160mm the darkside is 180mm plus i think they are completely imcompatible you will change your geometry far making the bike unstable or something like that but i am a retard your best chance is to ask keith

This may be a dumb question, but I searched and found nothing about setting sag on the ccdb with or without adjustments. When setting sag should I keep the factory adjustments OR zero out all adjustments first?

This may be a dumb question, but I searched and found nothing about setting sag on the ccdb with or without adjustments. When setting sag should I keep the factory adjustments OR zero out all adjustments first?

Set sag with all adjustments backed out to zero.
You might want to try riding the bike with the normal can first. No volume reducers installed and then see how it feels. If you're still not getting full travel, then maybe look into getting the XV can. Personally, I kinda liked how my bike felt when I had a normal can shock installed(it was a replacement while my XV can shock went in for servicing).

Had my first shake down ride today at Blackrock in Oregon and my suspension feels like crap. The Float x felt bottomless on my Covert, but now is rough and I'm blowing thru travel way to easily. I had to pump the shock up to 250 psi just to make the ride manageable. Sounds like I need to add a spacer to make it more progressive. I'm 220 with gear btw.

For those of you with the float x, what are your impressions? How much do you weigh and let me know if you're running any spacers.

Thanks

Only had my Rune for 10 days, but ridden it plenty in that time. Its got the FloatX CTD.
Heres my thoughts on the shock:
I've never really used the on the go adjustments of shocks and forks, but I gave the CTX switch a play and am really impressed with it. The frame weighs 1.25lb more than my Heckler, so I'm glad it climbs well, and with the shock in Climb, real long fireroads are very manageable. Far better than my old Heckler (RP23 push tuned).
Trail mode is used almost all the time for me. I am playing around with either setting 2 or 3. It doesnt move too much on shorter climbs and descents are composed with no bottoming out.
Descend mode is lovely and plush, but I do blow through the travel too easy. I up'd the pressure to 180PSI (I weigh 165 with kit), still getting through the travel too easy.
My RP23, did this on my Heckler too, so I made myself a shim/volume reducer to stick in the HV sleeve. This worked extremely well, so I have ordered myself the Volume tuning kit to decrease the air volume and ramp up the compression a little more.

Hopefully that is all that is needed as I like the CTD switch and have always got on well with Fox shocks (not forks!).

Shuttled the Rune on Sunday on a downhill trail allowing me to attempt to fine tune the shock. It's getting better, but not quite where I want it yet. Want to get it dialed before next week's Whistler trip; I think my problem is with the air pressure. I've been able to get 17mm in sag on 125 psi thru 155psi...heck maybe even higher, but I haven't tried. The question I have is for those bigger riders out there...what PSI are you running on you CCDB Air?

sounds from your float x

Originally Posted by superfli

Only had my Rune for 10 days, but ridden it plenty in that time. Its got the FloatX CTD.
Heres my thoughts on the shock:
I've never really used the on the go adjustments of shocks and forks, but I gave the CTX switch a play and am really impressed with it. The frame weighs 1.25lb more than my Heckler, so I'm glad it climbs well, and with the shock in Climb, real long fireroads are very manageable. Far better than my old Heckler (RP23 push tuned).
Trail mode is used almost all the time for me. I am playing around with either setting 2 or 3. It doesnt move too much on shorter climbs and descents are composed with no bottoming out.
Descend mode is lovely and plush, but I do blow through the travel too easy. I up'd the pressure to 180PSI (I weigh 165 with kit), still getting through the travel too easy.
My RP23, did this on my Heckler too, so I made myself a shim/volume reducer to stick in the HV sleeve. This worked extremely well, so I have ordered myself the Volume tuning kit to decrease the air volume and ramp up the compression a little more.

Hopefully that is all that is needed as I like the CTD switch and have always got on well with Fox shocks (not forks!).

hi
just got my 2015 rune with a float x
set the corect sag...even a little less to keep them hight on the travel but
evrey time i ride on trail mode the shock make a "comprestion "sounds of air whistling a load sound
i had a float x on on another bike and it was quite
so i just wonder is it just my shock?

hi
just got my 2015 rune with a float x
set the corect sag...even a little less to keep them hight on the travel but
evrey time i ride on trail mode the shock make a "comprestion "sounds of air whistling a load sound
i had a float x on on another bike and it was quite
so i just wonder is it just my shock?

I'd contact Fox and explain this noise to them. It doesn't sound right.

My Float X doesnt make any noise. Contact your dealer or Fox.
Installed a larger volume reducer the other day (next size up from the one in there, almost twice the size). Not had a chance to ride it this week. Hopefully Sunday...

SmittyPDX, I'm coming off a covert carbon and seriously considering the rune. Whats your impression after the swap? My main reason for leaving the covert is I always disliked how high the front end felt. I made the mistake of stepping on an enduro and just loved the way the cock pit felt so I'm going for something with a lower stack, which it looks like the banshee will suffice. The enduro was a possibility but I hate specialized and its ridiculously priced, I could get a complete rune for the price of the frame lol. So if anyone has any input feel free, Smitty is just coming off the same bike.

Also, how'd you end up weight wise between the two, I never weighed my covert, or worried about it, but I don't exactly think its lightweight lol. The trails by my house are pretty light duty so I'm kind of thinking I might want to head for something a bit smaller. Then again, I'm worried when I hit rowdier trails a lighter bike might hold me back.

Can You so Kind To share Your figures (weigth , pressure , sag, rebound ) as reference for My play ?

Thanks in advance

I am 75-78 kg depending on equipment, run 170-175PSI and 5 clicks of rebound from fully open for AM use.
First you need to set proper sag, should open rebound and LSC to fully open prior. I am using Banshee table from their web site to set sag correctly and take 17mm by shaft. But you also need to check how you will used this sag in your style of ride - if you have more dowhill you need to set pressure while you stay on pedals above rear wheel, if you have 50/50 up and down you need to set pressure while you seat in saddle. After that you need to set rebound according to your prefers, trail conditions etc., it should be only up to you

Hopes this should be enough information to set up correct figures.
Cheers

R: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

Originally Posted by alexey_shmat

I am 75-78 kg depending on equipment, run 170-175PSI and 5 clicks of rebound from fully open for AM use.
First you need to set proper sag, should open rebound and LSC to fully open prior. I am using Banshee table from their web site to set sag correctly and take 17mm by shaft. But you also need to check how you will used this sag in your style of ride - if you have more dowhill you need to set pressure while you stay on pedals above rear wheel, if you have 50/50 up and down you need to set pressure while you seat in saddle. After that you need to set rebound according to your prefers, trail conditions etc., it should be only up to you

Hopes this should be enough information to set up correct figures.
Cheers

Just added 650b wheels and dropouts to my Rune. I was worried about clearance on my 2011 Vengeance (although lowers are newer as I replaced them a few months ago - 2012/3?), even though they say they are 650b compatible. Anyway, I fitted a Magic Mary:

SmittyPDX, I'm coming off a covert carbon and seriously considering the rune. Whats your impression after the swap? My main reason for leaving the covert is I always disliked how high the front end felt. I made the mistake of stepping on an enduro and just loved the way the cock pit felt so I'm going for something with a lower stack, which it looks like the banshee will suffice. The enduro was a possibility but I hate specialized and its ridiculously priced, I could get a complete rune for the price of the frame lol. So if anyone has any input feel free, Smitty is just coming off the same bike.

Also, how'd you end up weight wise between the two, I never weighed my covert, or worried about it, but I don't exactly think its lightweight lol. The trails by my house are pretty light duty so I'm kind of thinking I might want to head for something a bit smaller. Then again, I'm worried when I hit rowdier trails a lighter bike might hold me back.

Yeah the covert definitely has a higher stack then the Rune. Honestly I liked the taller stack, mainly because I'm 6'4 and it felt right. I have all my spacers under the stem now on my rune to get the controls up a bit. I loved my Covert on the descents...felt bottomless and poppy (float x). I've yet to dial in the CCDB to feel the same, each ride I'm getting closer tho as I play with the settings. Climbing wise the rune wins hands down!

As for weight, my covert was 32 pounds even...mind you that's an aluminum XL. The Rune hasn't been weighed yet but I suspect it to be in the 33lbs range.

Mattoc and Pike is very similar, but I want to try RS and now I love it better. Regarding CCDB it gives to me not enough support on uphill even with CS, but with Monarch now bike become alive)) On trails and DH routes Monarch perfomed like CCDB with a little bit more resilient feeling.

Yeah the covert definitely has a higher stack then the Rune. Honestly I liked the taller stack, mainly because I'm 6'4 and it felt right.

Agreed. The stack on the rune is TINY. They go with a super short headtube on the XL because it's the same one used on the L/M. It's just a cost saving measure and a really crummy one at that. The headtube is wayyyyyy to short on the XL rune. It should be at least 1.5 inches or more taller.

Agreed. The stack on the rune is TINY. They go with a super short headtube on the XL because it's the same one used on the L/M. It's just a cost saving measure and a really crummy one at that. The headtube is wayyyyyy to short on the XL rune. It should be at least 1.5 inches or more taller.

I'm guessing the short stack has me too far forward that I'm putting so much pressure on my hands that they are so sore and almost bruised. I have some relief now that I've added a couple spacers to the stem, but agree...head tube should be taller.

Hey guys, first time on this thread, just got in my 2015 frame here in the uk, the ison site had implied that the bike shipped with 26" dropouts but looking through the box today the set that came with it were 650b ones. So the question is how badly will it affect the bike as i am going to be running it as a 26"? Looking at the geo numbers on the banshee site its like an extra .4" in chainstay length and like 10mm in bb height but as there is a difference of 25mm in erto sizes i assume there is also compenation for the wheel size as far as bb height goes in the dropout, if that makes sense. i.e. they off set a bit. Mainly just need someone to tell me what i think i already know, get the right dropouts even if it means not getting to ride the bike this weekend. Or am i crazy and the difference will be negligable? Builttoride? little help?

When I test ride the Rune from the LBS, the bike had 27,5 dropouts and 26 wheels.
I did notice the traction going uphill was very good and the front was hard to lift. Other than that, the bike rode amazing (to the point I actually got one for myself).
My guess is that you will have no problem riding the bike in that configuration, other than a slightly long chainstay.

The 650b dropouts essentially just lengthen the chainstay... no other effect when compared to running 26" dropouts with same wheels.
I'm sure if you speak to your dealer, or call up Ison they will be able to sort this for you quickly if you wish... maybe even before the weekend

Anyone here come from a MK2 Nomad to a V2 Rune? I had a V1 Rune then got a Nomad after the bushing issues. V2 Rune is at the top of my list to replace the Nomad, and was curious if anyone had impressions between the two.

Anyone here come from a MK2 Nomad to a V2 Rune? I had a V1 Rune then got a Nomad after the bushing issues. V2 Rune is at the top of my list to replace the Nomad, and was curious if anyone had impressions between the two.

How's a coil shock feel on it?

Anyone have weight of Medium frame?

I used to have a Nomad Carbon (mk2) and now ride a 650b Spitfire. The Spitfire is so much better than the Nomad in just about every situation. Climbs better, geometry is infinitely better than the very cramped Nomad, and the Banshee suspension layout just feels a heck of a lot more lively. My times have improved down even the most technical local trails that we have, and even the 140mm travel Spitfire feels more stable than the Nomad due to the longer TT and wheelbase. My Nomad had a damn good suspension setup with the Push linkage and a custom tuned RC4, but it still felt less controlled and efficient than the Spitfire does.

cheers guys ison sorted it out quick, should have em tommorrow. Awesome. been waiting months for the frame so really did not want to have to put off riding it any longer, went ahead and half built it tonight after work.

I used to have a Nomad Carbon (mk2) and now ride a 650b Spitfire. The Spitfire is so much better than the Nomad in just about every situation. Climbs better, geometry is infinitely better than the very cramped Nomad, and the Banshee suspension layout just feels a heck of a lot more lively. My times have improved down even the most technical local trails that we have, and even the 140mm travel Spitfire feels more stable than the Nomad due to the longer TT and wheelbase. My Nomad had a damn good suspension setup with the Push linkage and a custom tuned RC4, but it still felt less controlled and efficient than the Spitfire does.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by superfli

Weight of a medium with Fox FloatX is 8.5lb.
Cant help with the Nomad though

I now have 2 sets of wheels, 26" Flows for my DH days (135x10) and 650b Superstar Tactics (142x12) for Enduro racing and general riding. Currently I swap the dropouts to the QR 26 or 142 650b depending on wheel. I can get a 142x12 adapter for my 26" wheels to speed up changes, question is does anyone run 26" wheels in the 650b dropouts? I assume the BB will be lower and the wheelbase will be longer? Is it unwise to do this, would I be wasting my money on the adapter and should I just continue to swap my dropouts?
After a couple of extremely muddy enduro's it would be useful to swap my wheels quickly to the 26" for the really muddy stages Thanks

I now have 2 sets of wheels, 26" Flows for my DH days (135x10) and 650b Superstar Tactics (142x12) for Enduro racing and general riding. Currently I swap the dropouts to the QR 26 or 142 650b depending on wheel. I can get a 142x12 adapter for my 26" wheels to speed up changes, question is does anyone run 26" wheels in the 650b dropouts? I assume the BB will be lower and the wheelbase will be longer? Is it unwise to do this, would I be wasting my money on the adapter and should I just continue to swap my dropouts?
After a couple of extremely muddy enduro's it would be useful to swap my wheels quickly to the 26" for the really muddy stages Thanks

I currently run my Rune w/ 26" wheels and 650b drop outs. The BB height is actually the exact same, just the chainstay length is longer.

I was hoping the 650b dropouts would offer a lower BB height (to account for the added height of 650b wheels), but that's not the case if you look at the GEO numbers on the site. Comparing the 26" to 650b BB heights on the site, the 650b geo numbers are .4" higher across the board.

Speaking of which, does anyone happen to have a set of the 26" x 142mm dropouts they'd be willing to part with for cheap?

26" or 27.5"? need input here....

heyya rune riders..

i've got my rune v2 frame recently and I'm in the middle of building up my bike. 1 thing that got me confuse here ... whether to build up 26" or 27.5" .... on papers , of course 27.5 got an advantage compare to 26" (atleast from my point of view) , but im doubt if it don't work out as well for me as im quite short. my height is between 5'3" or 5'4".

i have no doubt in my frame size which is definitely S size, but the wheel size is killing my head now.

i really need your input and an honest opinion here. it is good if i got an input from the riders whose height is same as me. i appreciate any of your comments dude.. thanx

I currently run my Rune w/ 26" wheels and 650b drop outs. The BB height is actually the exact same, just the chainstay length is longer.

I was hoping the 650b dropouts would offer a lower BB height (to account for the added height of 650b wheels), but that's not the case if you look at the GEO numbers on the site. Comparing the 26" to 650b BB heights on the site, the 650b geo numbers are .4" higher across the board.

Speaking of which, does anyone happen to have a set of the 26" x 142mm dropouts they'd be willing to part with for cheap?

Yeah I'm using xfusion vengeance @ 150 to get 545 axle-crown so bb height is low and head angle isn't too slack. I don't notice 10mm less travel than the rear, but I'd rather have 160mm with lighter weight, more fork offset and still minimal axle-crown.
Vengeance are heavy and creak so I'm looking to upgrade.

I know this has probably been talked about but I cant find an answer.
Have there been any changed to the dropouts or derailleur hangers for the 142/12 dropouts.

No matter how well I set up the rear mech it always drops the chain to the gap in between the hub and frame. This is with a Zee, Saint and an X9.
Also I had to put spacers on the brake bracket to center it over the disc.

I know this has probably been talked about but I cant find an answer.
Have there been any changed to the dropouts or derailleur hangers for the 142/12 dropouts.

No matter how well I set up the rear mech it always drops the chain to the gap in between the hub and frame. This is with a Zee, Saint and an X9.
Also I had to put spacers on the brake bracket to center it over the disc.

Anyone else with these problems? and what did you do??

Mine did that the other day. It's only happened once, so I ignored it, thought maybe just need to tweak the hi/lo adjuster.

I've been riding a Rune v2 since thus past June and love it. My norco 26" range and turner 5spot have not been getting much use since I got it.

Recently I purchased a pike fork and a set of ibis 741 carbon rims. All I can say is WOW! The pike is solid and even though its 10mm less travel than the 170 vengence it replaced it bombs trails and feels like it has more travel than it does(160)

The ibis 741 wheels are the real highlight of this new combo. Super stiff, pretty dam light and at 41mm wide they have a large foot print that shines in steep muddy terrain like I ride in the pnw. I've suffered rim damage in the past with my flow rims when I went below 32 psi but with the 741's I'm goin below 20 psi with no burps or dings! Pretty unbelievable. The rune peddels noticably better uphill with a hr 2 in the rear and magic marry up front.

Probably about to be in the market for a new frame, and the V2 rune is definitely on the short list. It seems to have lots of good reviews. Currently running 2006 SX with 180 float up front. It is my do it all bike for xc, am, and dh other than my dj. Looks like from many perspectives I would see noticeable improvements from my current ride. How does well does the rune do as a do it all bike? Also wanting to try my hand at a few enduro races in the 2015. Also been eyeing the GG megatrail, but sure like what I am seeing on the Rune and all the reviews.

Last edited by ddbullard76; 01-02-2015 at 11:46 AM.
Reason: adding to it

Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

For those who came from a sc nomad, can u tell the difference between that and a rune? Thinking if to get one for downhill and some enduro riding. Eyeing a 2013 aluminum nomad. Can't tell if the vpp is gonnna give a different feel

Anyone with cc dbinline ? Which are the Pros / Cons of The shock mounted on a rune ?

A Cane Creek rep stated to me when I questioned whether to run a DB Air CS vs an Inline, that if you are riding the bike hard and if you are bigger rider (I'm 200 lbs) then get the DB Air CS. The adjustments and feel are otherwise identical, but the DB Air CS will perform better in the aforementioned scenario.

Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

Originally Posted by HELLBELLY

A Cane Creek rep stated to me when I questioned whether to run a DB Air CS vs an Inline, that if you are riding the bike hard and if you are bigger rider (I'm 200 lbs) then get the DB Air CS. The adjustments and feel are otherwise identical, but the DB Air CS will perform better in the aforementioned scenario.

Great Thanks a Lot. Being a breith below 160lbs and riding aggressive But no jump non Big Drop It sounds suite to My rune and need

I've had my Rune for 6 months now and can't say a bad word about it. It has become my one bike to do everything on, so much so that I'm going to get rid of my Dh bike this year and just ride the rune. I guess it depends on the type of riding you do, prob wouldn't pick it to go xc riding on, that's not to say you can't go on all day rides, i did the Whistler EWS on it last year which was the longest day i think i've ever done, its just much better suited for steeper terrain.
Have the cane creek DBcs which i love, not changed it too far from the suggested setup. Couldn't believe how fast it was when I first rode it, was going into sections way quicker that before and yet in more control. Very confidence inspiring. It really does rip the downhills and yet its a better climber than it should be, I find myself getting up things that I wouldn't have on other bikes. In summary, I love it....
Happy to answer any questions about it.
Hope that helps
Wallace

My sentiments exactly, haven't ridden my dh bike since I got my Rune 12 months ago. Just no need for it on most UK tracks. The way the Rune climbs still surprises me, it has no right to do so with a 65° head angle.

I put mine in the highest position just to see what it would do the other day. Rode it last night and it rips up hill now. I was kinda surprised it made as much difference as it did. Tire clearance is tight with a 2.3 now but oh well.

I run maxxis highrollers 2's with a ibis 742 carbon rim and none of the rear dropout settings will work other than the slack one. No room for wheel in other settings. The axle is about an inch off from fitting with the steep chip in.oh well, slack it is:-)

I run maxxis highrollers 2's with a ibis 742 carbon rim and none of the rear dropout settings will work other than the slack one. No room for wheel in other settings. The axle is about an inch off from fitting with the steep chip in.oh well, slack it is:-)

Is that with the correct dropouts for the wheel size? ie are you using 27.5 wheels in 26 dropouts? I've got loads of room in any setting - ok my tyre isnt massive (Kenda Nevegal X Pro 2.35), but I'm suprised by yours?

I ran a 26x2.4 HR2 in back in the middle setting with tons of room. I did have cleaner issues with my TK2.4 though. I wouldn't clear the highest setting, it cleared but was snug going in and out in the middle and was fine slack.

I currently have a clutch 2.35 in back in the highest setting with no issues.

Pretty stoked on it. Climbs almost as well as my previous main bike, a 2012 RIP9, and I can take it down descents i'd usually shuttle with my kona entourage that has a vivid air and 180mm in the front. Comes in at 33 pounds I believe.

I was worried that it wouldn't climb well enough/be too heavy/not have enough gears, but i was wrong. Love the wheel size. I still have to shift my seatpost around to get the proper height on downs and ups, and i'm still getting used to the rock razor in the rear. May well end up having to buy a 150mm dropper, or put a quick release on the seatpost.

I also wasn't very keen at all on the colour but could only get orange in the extra large. However it was love at first sight when it arrived on order, wouldn't change it for black at all, even though i've exclusively ridden black bikes in the past. it absolutely pops and it gets heaps of love, often from motorists who like that they can see it when i'm riding to the trailhead, it's pretty funny. that combined with the size makes it unmissable!

Hi all
This is my first post on this forum,and I only joined for this thread.
I've just pulled the trigger on a black on black frame (I was torn between black or orange)with CCDB AIR CS and fox 36 170mm forks.
I'm building it up as a bike park and uplift bike as funds allow and I'm using this forum as inspiration.
Has anyone had any experience with guide rs brakes ?

I don't have any experience with them but a 4 piston brake on 180mm rotors seems like a must for a bike like the Rune. CRC has these plus the rotor for about $150 right now and I couldn't resist. I'll post my ride once I get them mounted.

Nice! That BOS looks legit on there.
I am building my 2014 stealth right now and might go with custom decals. Can anyone tell me if the existing decals can be removed for new ones? Thanks

[QUOTE

[/QUOTE]
Hi MAGPIE!!!

There are no decals on the black on black frame.
I think they use a masking system when shot blasting the frame then remove before anodising .
This gives the rough blasted and smooth masked off contrast.

650 vs 26

I converted my intense tracer 2 from a 26er to a 275. I don't like how high the BB is. I like the geometry of the rune, but am concerned I'll run into similar issues if built with 275 wheels. Any thoughts other than build a 26er?