This write up can be applied for nearly any gauge, however it is highly recommended that electrical gauges are used if you're installing in the cabin, as this will reduce the risk for serious injury and damage to components if a line breaks.

This write up was performed on a USDM ST162. This will work on all st16x variants, both domestic and abroad. I can not attest how this will work in other generations, and what additional modifications are necessary to make this work in other generations.

:insert standard don't blame me or ctech for your fudgeups here:

Parts necessary:

Boost gauge
-Electronic highly suggested
*NOTE*This was performed using a 52mm gauge. This was done with a 45mm gauge by ChrisD which fit a bit neater inside the cluster.

Wire connectors
-These will be used to tap into the necessary power and switch sources and are a must.
http://www.ourlewisfamily.net/content/uploads/ctech/vampire-taps.jpg
-utilize what you feel comfortable. It is highly suggested to solder connections together, however butt connectors (as pictured) or spade connectors will also work.

Your instrument cluster
-DUH!
-If you are hesitant to use yours, clusters can be obtained at junkyards for $0-50 depending on where you go. This write up utilized 2 instruemnt bezels due to breakage.

Now the fun begins. To start, disconnect the battery. You don't want to be working with hot wires and risk blowing fuses, serious injury, or a potential fire.

Once disconnected, begin disassembling the trim and interior panels surrounding the instrument cluster, as well as the panels that enclose and cover the steering column and drivers side lower finish panel. This is necessary so you have unobstructed access to the wiring looms and general room to work. You should look something like this once.

Remove the Phillips screws that hold the cluster in place. In the picture above, there are 4 screws (2 on top, 1 on each side of the steering column). Gently pull out the cluster, and disconnect the connections going into the back. Now, you should look like this.

Remove the phillips screws that attach the clear cover and the bezel to the cluster (4-6 screws). Carefully (as all your gauges and needles will be exposed now) turn over the cluster. On the backplane trace, you will see numerous small screws. Match these up to the gauge being removed, and unscrew. (picture below the console is upside down, the 3 empty holes connect to the temperature gauge when looking from the front). Be careful not to damage the traces. The gauge will want to tumble out once unscrewed.

http://ourlewisfamily.net/content/g1/Jasmine/normal_hi_mileage.JPG

http://ourlewisfamily.net/content/g1/Jasmine/normal_gauge_removed.JPG

You will then need to take the boost gauge, and remove the internals. This will no doubtedly void the warrenty on it, so be careful.

You will then need to take the dremel with your favorite attachment, and make the back of the cluster smooth from the inside (so the gauge can sit flush with the other gauges). You can see in this picture that the plastic has not been cut, so it sits up a little from the other gauges. I really can't picture how much to take off, it's dependent on the gauge you purchased and the cluster you are utilizing. I had to take mine all the way down to allow for the flush mounting, as well as remove the small riser on the black bezel around the face.

http://ourlewisfamily.net/content/g1/Jasmine/normal_installed.JPG

You will need to be creative for this part. There is no way to secure the gauge to the cluster simply. There will need to be some thing to support or hold the gauge so it's not rolling around inside. I used 2 pieces of 3/8 hose and zip tied the hose to the cluster. The hoses act as a cradle to support the gauge. After installing the bezel over the gauges and inserting the screws, it was nice and snug, yet had full sweep without hitting anything.

very nice. it looks like the gauge needs to be rotated counter clockwise a bit to be centered.

bloodMoney

06-27-2010, 10:56 PM

Nice! Stacy hates the pillar setup that's on Patty, so this may be a viable option...

alltracNyx

06-28-2010, 01:17 AM

Nice! Stacy hates the pillar setup that's on Patty, so this may be a viable option...

HATE is a strong word. I've just never been a fan of pillar pods. I tend to like a more stock look.

Tim, I love your set up, and will definitely consider this as an option, once we get our motor issues sorted out :)

4thgenceli

06-28-2010, 01:49 AM

If you need a home for the pillar pod for the 165... I could use one! lol.

I'll get teh rest of the write up done tonight/tomorrow (once the wife recovers).

alltracNyx

06-28-2010, 02:01 AM

Well, so long as Chris agrees, and I can find a place for the three gauges that currently have a home there, it's yours :)

d1alltrac

06-28-2010, 08:08 AM

I was doing the same thing but my dremel died and I can't find my other one.

What are you going to do about the water temp gauge? I've considered a few methods to relocate it but I'm still not sure what would work the best...where's ChrisD when you need him...lol

ChrisD

06-28-2010, 04:50 PM

Great stuff Tim! A tip on that hole. You can make it much smoother and round if you "brush" it with a razor blade like one of these:

http://www.fullam.com/images/tools/526601.jpg

Just shave away nice and slow and evenly, just enough to get some plastic filings to come off. The blade will naturally round it out nicely.

I did mine without even drilling out the hole. 100% with a razor blade.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/DSC036751.JPG

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/DSC036771.JPG

What are you going to do about the water temp gauge? I've considered a few methods to relocate it but I'm still not sure what would work the best...where's ChrisD when you need him...lol

hehe. I went back and forth on a lot of different gauges to pop in there. Grabbed a 162 volt meter at one point, then decided they were all useless and put in the ones that were at least somewhat helpful. (gas level and water temp) The mounts are different for the different positions, but you can make it work with a little creativity. I don't remember the details since that was a few years back now.

I'll probably take mine apart at some point since I want to add another LED in there for my water injection reservoir level. I'll make sure to take some pics of what I did.

4thgenceli

06-28-2010, 05:15 PM

I'm going to put one of those A-pillar pods in there and I'll throw the water temp and some other ones in that pod.

d1alltrac

06-29-2010, 08:09 AM

Great tip about the razor blade Chris...I never would have thought of that, I was considering picking up a 45mm hole saw for the perfect circle.

I'll probably take mine apart at some point since I want to add another LED in there for my water injection reservoir level. I'll make sure to take some pics of what I did.

I'd appreciate that, I might just throw together a temporary pod so I can take my time working on the spare cluster.

It seems like the easiest way to relocate one of the stock gauges would be to run some wires outside the cluster but I'm trying to figure a way to keep it all inside. It's too bad the IGN+ is on opposite sides of the stock boost and fuel level gauges, it would be so easy if they were on the same side.

I'm going to put one of those A-pillar pods in there and I'll throw the water temp and some other ones in that pod.