Was there any consensus about about battery replacement and registration? I read somewhere here that the BT tool has the capability to register the replacement of a battery that carries the same capacity and specifications. However, if you're switching to a different type of battery or one with different specs, registration is not possible with the BT tool.

I installed an Autozone Duralast battery about two years ago and took my car to an Indy to have it registered. They told me they wouldn't do it as they could not find AH ratings on the Duralast. I don't know what type of tool they intended to use, but they needed AH to do the registration. I believe they gave me an honest reply as they didn't charge me and they said they didn't want to guess they AH and cause damage. I still haven't registered yet and no problems.

replaced the battery with 8K miles 3 months ago, recently I think my battery died, can't turn on the car, no power at all, and can't jump it. will try a battery jumper tonight from Costco. The battery I used is aftermarket.

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I need some advice regarding the battery in my new (used) 335. When I purchased the car one of the conditions was to replace the battery, since the one that was in it wasn't holding enough amps (sorry if my terminology is off a little). The battery was replaced and the car works fine except when I turn off the engine; after as little as a minute (sometimes a bit more) the battery icon shows on my dash and the accessories turn off.

I called the dealer where I purchased the car because I was concerned and they mentioned they had just learned that you needed to "register" the battery, which they hadn't. I knew about the need to register it, and assumed they did as well, but I guess not.

So now I have 2 questions:

1. Will registering the battery actually solve the issue of my battery light coming on shortly after shutting off my engine? I'm not sure I believe that this is solely a battery registration issue, but who knows?
2. I've had the car for about a month now with an unregistered battery; should I request that they replace it again before registering? From what I understand the life of this new battery could be severely diminished due to not registering it, even though I've only been driving the car a month.

1. Will registering the battery actually solve the issue of my battery light coming on shortly after shutting off my engine? I'm not sure I believe that this is solely a battery registration issue, but who knows?
2. I've had the car for about a month now with an unregistered battery; should I request that they replace it again before registering? From what I understand the life of this new battery could be severely diminished due to not registering it, even though I've only been driving the car a month.

Any feedback appreciated, thanks!

1. Maybe. I had the same low voltage icon come on after one minute with the ignition on but the motor off. And the Comfort Access would only open the doors sporadically, but there were no other symptoms of low voltage such as a zeroing of the trip odometer, and the car would always start. At first it was intermittent and was temporarily solved with an alternator replacement as an overcharging condition was detected. After the problem returned a few weeks later, a second alternator was put in, and then a new IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) unit. As I understand it, the purpose of registration is to inform the IBS - which controls the rate of charge.

All was fine for about 6 months when the low voltage warnings returned and a gound fault was traced to a bad wire under the console. Two weeks later, the JBE (Junction Box Electronics) was replaced and two weeks after that, the 5 year old battery finally failed and the car had to be towed to the dealer.

I'm hoping that with all of the new parts and new battery, the problems are finally over, as I have only a year remaining on the CPO. Luckily, everything but the battery was covered under the warranty.

2. So I'd definitely have the new battery registered, not so much for the battery life, but because of all the other issues that could stem from overcharging or undercharging. And I'd have the whole system thoroughly checked, especially the condition of the "new" battery.

But since BMW has required battery registration for a number of years, why didn't your dealer know about it?

hey guys, re: BT Tool, can somebody confirm that it can program the battery? I need a battery as well and these dealerships here are ridiculous!! $200 for programming...in addition to installation, taxes, and BATT

I contacted Johnson Controls via the website, they gave me an estimate for Ah.

Hello I just bought a H8 Everstart battery from Wal-Mart for my 2008 BMW 535xi. Everything was good for one day but now my check engine light came on. I have an appointment for Friday to get my battery registered but I don't what battery specs to tell them so that they can register my battery.

Hello I just bought a H8 Everstart battery from Wal-Mart for my 2008 BMW 535xi. Everything was good for one day but now my check engine light came on. I have an appointment for Friday to get my battery registered but I don't what battery specs to tell them so that they can register my battery.

Or this one I just have to figure out what the AH is
Autocraft Silver CCA 850 AH ? RC 150

BMW CCA OEM 850 AH 110 RC 110

Either one will fit exactly it seems, even though the H8 from Wal-mart fit exactly it just doesn't have the same AH as OEM I would advise anyone in the future looking at this thread NOT to purchase the H8 from wal-mart because it will throw a check engine code P1515

So I've been looking around to find a lead-acid battery with exactly 90Ah and sufficient CCA so I can just pop the battery in there and do a basic registration without any complicated programming for a different capacity battery.

Has anyone found a suitable replacement with exactly 90Ah capacity? I am thinking it would be bad to not match up with the original battery without reprogramming the car, but at the same time I am wondering when replacing a simple car battery became so complex in the first place.

I would register anybody's battery for $21. It takes 5 minutes. Any "reputable" indy shop should be able to program your car for a battery with a different AH rating than the previous one. They might charge more though because it takes an extra 5 minutes.

Go OEM for your battery. I didnt and I went for a OEM replacement with a higher capacity then the original (which should had been ok) and had cold start issues. Tested the battery inside out; even changed the battery. Still the same. I regret my decision; should have paid the full price at the dealer.

It's not hard to bypass registration attach a booster pack to the battery prongs under the hood so the car doesn't lose memory then you won't need to register it

Go OEM for your battery. I didnt and I went for a OEM replacement with a higher capacity then the original (which should had been ok) and had cold start issues. Tested the battery inside out; even changed the battery. Still the same. I regret my decision; should have paid the full price at the dealer.

It's not hard to bypass registration attach a booster pack to the battery prongs under the hood so the car doesn't lose memory then you won't need to register it

So are you saying to go oem or the exact battery you have will not have to be registered if you keep the car powered via booster pack because it has the same specs?

It's not hard to bypass registration attach a booster pack to the battery prongs under the hood so the car doesn't lose memory then you won't need to register it

This is not correct. The registration process is to customize the charging for each battery. No two batteries, even if from the same factory with the same part #, will have the exact same characteristics.