Owner Daniel Lewis brought the former Ici's in 2016 and retained much of the original fit-out. The rebuild by designers Christensen and Jackson uses hanging lights, polished steelwork and white tiling to open up the space to the light.

The all-day menu by Eileen Horsnell, who worked with Lewis at Pearl and spent time as a pastry chef at Biota and Urbane, focuses on simple pleasures; charcuterie; cheese; a daily roast. Before noon, drop in for croissants by Loafer and coffee by Allpress. Four-minute boiled eggs are served with asparagus soldiers and Yarra Valley trout roe.

Produce is sourced through quality suppliers including Meatsmith, Grown and Gathered and Calendar Cheese.