Chalayan / Spring 2014 RTW

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The transformative aspect of clothing has always been fascinating for Hussein Chalayan, who often pushes the boundaries of fashion into a futuristic realm. This season though, that obsession was grounded with practical concerns of the real world and the logistics of a summer wardrobe. “It was all about this anticipation of summer, the anticipation of getting into the water,” said Chalayan before the show. “Clothes that come off but stay with you, as if you’re about to get to the beach.”

The opening look, a striped blue-and-white terry cloth strapless dress, was a literal translation of his mission and unfurled to a maillot. With temperatures at pleasant Indian summer highs in Paris today, the thought of stripping down from a sundress to a bathing suit on the banks of the Seine was actually very appealing. Bikini straps peeked from a long column dress, and one all-black look had the appearance of a wetsuit that had been unzipped to the waist.

As far as dressing after sunset goes, the two-for-one ideas stood out the most here, too. “There’s this gap between the reality and the fantasy of a summer experience,” he said. “Finding that middle ground is what my work is all about.” As the last model unpeeled her jacket to reveal a spaghetti-strap dress that fluttered with plastic paillettes, it was clear he had found it: Instead of falling to the floor, the blazer disappeared into the folds of the dress—no coat check required.