85' Caprice Classic

I have an 85' Caprice with a stock 305 in it, and i wanted to try something differentso i replaced my stock timing chain for a double roller but even with the timing setto where its suppose to be it still skips and putts, can someone tell me what i didwrong.

the dots I refer to are on the crank and cam gears of the new timing set you installed, most aftermarket sets go on in mulitple positions...straight up, X* advanced, X* retarded, and several other possibilities depending on whose timing set you buy

points are the timing mechanism used in pre-75 (GM, other makes may have other start/stop dates) cars

The timing of the distributor would not have to be changed because you installed a new timing set unless your old one was way worn and the new one corrected that. However, the distributor timing should have been checked/verified post chain set installation to ensure ignition timing was set where it was supposed to be.

Otherwise it sounds like you might have gotten the cam off a tooth one way or the other.

Its a duralst double roller, and it has 3 keyways, and every time i reach top dead center it always land on the keyway and not the mark i really dont think that my cam is damaged i just think that the timing is off. I'll have the part number for u shortly

the cam goes where it goes in relation to the crank, anything else will cause problems

worry about getting the dots lined up right and everything else will follow...look at wayne's picture, if you put the dots inline like at the lower part of the picture everthing else will fall in its right place...then worry about adjusting the igniton timing at the distributor

+1 Scott. look at Waynes pic. set the bottom/crank gear at 12 o clock. then put the cam gear at 6 o clock. thats how to put a timing chain on. if the distributer is out,...turn the motor over til the cam gear is pointing at 12 o clock,...then install the dizzy pointed at number 1. should start right up.

i want to know.... if you understood that the O and the O are matched.. the triangle and the triangle... and the square and the square...

at CRANK TDC.. #1 and #6.. the woodruff key goes at 45 degrees to the right of center... when looked at from the front.. what... the woodruff key is aligned with the 1st rod throw...

its Easier to align the timing chain with the cam dot at the 6 o clock position.. but you have to understand .. from the first diagram that i posted.. that with the cam with the dot at the bottom leaves the lobes on the cam set to fire the #6 cylinder...

when the dot on the cam gear is at 12 o clock.. the cam lobes are set to fire the #1 cylinder...

so... the crank turns.. the cam turns at half the speed...

if you have gotten the cam and crank sprockets aligned properly.. getting the distributer in.. requires only pulling the #1 or the #6 spark plug.. bumping the engine to find compression and dropping the distributer in...

there is an easier way... that gives you half a chance... align the damper timing marks.. drop the distributer in pointing toward the #1 spark plug wire location.. if you get flames from the carb... you have it backwards...

say... what about the 3 different locations for timing marks on small block chevys

these are just a few of the variations... 6 inch.. 7 inch.. 8 inch dampers...

with these 2 timing marks... the CRANK is in the EXACT same position...neat thing.. look at the keyway... 45 degrees to the right of center. but also look at the 3 spokes of the damper.. the are all aligned also... just slightly off 45 degrees to the right of straight up..

take a look at this one...

i am sorry this seems complex... but there have been changes in these motors since the first small block chevy came off the line in late 1954 as a 55 model... wait.. did 54 corvettes have the V8 first???

want to complain.. look at the newer motors... double over head cam motors.. with variable valve timing.. want to think back to the old days... with just a single timing chain.... how about timing belts with cams that have to be held in place.. or you cannot get the timing belt on.. and timing belt tensioners that need special tools.. or a great design.. you adjust the timing belt tension by rotating the water pump... and you have to use a mirror to examine the hidden belt proper tension mark.. get it off.. and the timing belt will either slip.. or break.. wiping out all 16 valves... costing you another grand in parts... 250 for a head gasket set.. 100 bucks for head bolts that can only be used once... 15 bucks each for the valves...240 bucks plus having the valve job redone.. the machine shops usually want 300 bucks labor on that one.. as it is a PAIN in the rump.. now that i have gotten way off thread.. enjoy your day..