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Oil cooler post ordered. Thanks for the tip on Flatirons Tuning. I've bought a few things from them so far and have been satisfied. So, with this oil cooler, I suppose I wont be using these adapter brackets?

All in all a pretty sh**ty day. I got my timing belt on and tried to torque down the 10mm hex cam gear bolts and I ended up skipping 3 teeth on the passenger side. Nothing big, but I pulled the damn tensioner pin so I had to take that off. I tried to clamp the hydraulic pin down but finally realized I'm going to need a small vice to clamp it. Great. Finally, as I was undoing my passenger side belt the top cam gear got away from me and whipped counter clockwise back to it's original position. The bottom gear was in it's timed position. Hoping to god I didn't ding my valves. My gut says it's ok but I don't think there is any way to know without removing the heads and starting over...

sorry man. I still think its easier with a buddy and a cam gear holder. I can rent out the tools if you need. I can just do like a deposit for the price of them and refund it other than shipping. Also when you press the pin in the tensioner, it is supposed to be vertical not horizontal so use a press if you can instead of a vise, and go slow. Go slow enough that you get impatient.

All in all a pretty sh**ty day. I got my timing belt on and tried to torque down the 10mm hex cam gear bolts and I ended up skipping 3 teeth on the passenger side. Nothing big, but I pulled the damn tensioner pin so I had to take that off. I tried to clamp the hydraulic pin down but finally realized I'm going to need a small vice to clamp it. Great. Finally, as I was undoing my passenger side belt the top cam gear got away from me and whipped counter clockwise back to it's original position. The bottom gear was in it's timed position. Hoping to god I didn't ding my valves. My gut says it's ok but I don't think there is any way to know without removing the heads and starting over...

I did the same thing a couple times assembling mine, pulled the heads to check cause I was freaked out and it was fine Hope it's the same for you.

Didn't see if you did or didn't have them but I have some AMS cam tools I'd ship you if you ship them back! If you don't have access to them locally.

I did the same thing a couple times assembling mine, pulled the heads to check cause I was freaked out and it was fine Hope it's the same for you.

Didn't see if you did or didn't have them but I have some AMS cam tools I'd ship you if you ship them back! If you don't have access to them locally.

good luck!

Ya know, I've thought about it a lot - especially while not sleeping last night - and I don't think that the valves, when in that particular position could interfere with each other or with the pistons. When setting timing, the top right AVCS gear gets turned clockwise about 1/4 turn, and the bottom right exhaust gear gets turned about 1/4 turn counter clockwise. I've watched videos of timing belt assembly (see my favorite video below) and none of them stress that both gears have to be turned at the same time - hence no interference. My top right AVCS gear whipped back (counter clockwise) into it's original, unsprung position (valves closed). I'm confident enough about this to not pull the heads.

I do not have access to the AMS cam tools. I would probably only need them for a couple hours at most and would ship them back that very same day. I'll send you a PM. I have excellent feedback so no worries.

Do you have a tool for holding the gears in place? I improvised a tool with a strip of steel and a couple 10mm bolts locked into place with a couple nuts. The bolt heads fit into the cam bolts to lock the gear in place...although you have to go a tooth or 2 past where you want it because of slop between the bolt head and cam bolt

The cam tools would help if you don't have a buddy around to hold the tool while you position the gears

Do you have a tool for holding the gears in place? I improvised a tool with a strip of steel and a couple 10mm bolts locked into place with a couple nuts. The bolt heads fit into the cam bolts to lock the gear in place...although you have to go a tooth or 2 past where you want it because of slop between the bolt head and cam bolt

The cam tools would help if you don't have a buddy around to hold the tool while you position the gears

I'm letting the whole timing belt thing rest for a while until the weekend. mccanixx from a few posts above is letting me borrow his AMS cam tools for just the cost of shipping. It's a pretty big leap of faith considering they cost about $180 new.

Anyway, I got the exhaust bolted on with gaskets. I have decided to NOT wrap my exhaust manifold or crossover pipe - at least not for a few thousand miles. I bought a 1" x 50' DEI titanium wrap and it's going to be used just for my up pipe and downpipe.

I spent a lot of time getting my turbo mocked up again along with my TMIC. I was about to finish the mockup when I realized I hadn't accounted for my oil in/out lines. Due to the way the inlet is clocked, the bolts got in the way of my oil drain setup. See pic below:

The more I got to thinking about it, the more I realized that it appears my turbo oil in/out lines can (and perhaps should???) be clocked at the 12 & 6 or 10 & 4 O'clock position, with the oil drain line around the 4 or 6 O'clock position. In other words, drain on the bottom, oil in on the top.

I spent a lot of time getting my turbo mocked up again along with my TMIC. I was about to finish the mockup when I realized I hadn't accounted for my oil in/out lines. Due to the way the inlet is clocked, the bolts got in the way of my oil drain setup.

The more I got to thinking about it, the more I realized that it appears my turbo oil in/out lines can (and perhaps should???) be clocked at the 12 & 6 or 10 & 4 O'clock position, with the oil drain line around the 4 or 6 O'clock position. In other words, drain on the bottom, oil in on the top.

DOES THAT MAKE SENSE? OPINIONS? lol

Killer B oil drain line converter

Yes that makes sense, and you are correct...it is about 90% wrong right now

It takes some finesse. I have the same oil drain fitting, but my Tial turbine housing has smaller bolts. you COULD take that bolt and hit the top with a lathe to get it to clear that hex bolt for the oil drain flange...

But you should be able to clock the CHRA in a way that everything fits. Just do not exceed the max allowable degrees for that CHRA. And when clocking it while installed make sure the wheels are not getting hung up on either housing as you can damage a wheel that way...especially the thin compressor wheel.

My 3076r angle is borderline (I think spec for Garrett is 30-35 degrees off the 12-6 centerline) but I have no had any issues. SO I would say 11-5 (30 degrees effectively) should be the max, especially for an oil cooled turbo, but you should check the BW spec on your turbo. The oil return is mostly gravity driven and you do not want any obstructions that will lead to oil build up...which will eventually push past the seals and into the exhaust.

Yes that makes sense, and you are correct...it is about 90% wrong right now

It takes some finesse. I have the same oil drain fitting, but my Tial turbine housing has smaller bolts. you COULD take that bolt and hit the top with a lathe to get it to clear that hex bolt for the oil drain flange...

But you should be able to clock the CHRA in a way that everything fits. Just do not exceed the max allowable degrees for that CHRA. And when clocking it while installed make sure the wheels are not getting hung up on either housing as you can damage a wheel that way...especially the thin compressor wheel.

My 3076r angle is borderline (I think spec for Garrett is 30-35 degrees off the 12-6 centerline) but I have no had any issues. SO I would say 11-5 (30 degrees effectively) should be the max, especially for an oil cooled turbo, but you should check the BW spec on your turbo. The oil return is mostly gravity driven and you do not want any obstructions that will lead to oil build up...which will eventually push past the seals and into the exhaust.

Regarding the angle - It's my understanding that the turbo can only handle a 15* angle - which I was under the impression was the X axis. The guy who built my rotated exhaust setup made sure it fell within spec. I didn't realize that clocking the chra would affect this at all - in fact, I'm really unsure how it would affect that at all? Now I'm super paranoid. I'll need to confirm this with AGP tomorrow.

What is a 0* off centerline? What is the standard layout for oil line in and out? Does 12-6 mean 12 is for the oil in, and 6 is for the oil out? Right now my oil in is at 9 O'clock, and my oil line out is at 3 O'clock.

The 15* max angle is the tilt back of the turbo along the shaft itself. Your kit has 13* of tilt.

The center cartridge itself shouldn't be tilted too much either. This will ensure the oil can drain properly just like aboothman said. If you picture the oil inlet/feed on the top of the cartridge in the 12:00 position...this would be ideal, but not possible since you need to angle over towards your oil return on the head. Just rotate the cartridge toward the pass strut tower so the feed is in the 11:00 postion, or at most, between 10 and 11 and you should be fine. Also, when rotating it with it installed, loosen the bolts a little and just remove the bolt that is getting in the way. Then re-install it after you have rotated past it.

The 15* max angle is the tilt back of the turbo along the shaft itself. Your kit has 13* of tilt.

The center cartridge itself shouldn't be tilted too much either. This will ensure the oil can drain properly just like aboothman said. If you picture the oil inlet/feed on the top of the cartridge in the 12:00 position...this would be ideal, but not possible since you need to angle over towards your oil return on the head. Just rotate the cartridge toward the pass strut tower so the feed is in the 11:00 postion, or at most, between 10 and 11 and you should be fine. Also, when rotating it with it installed, loosen the bolts a little and just remove the bolt that is getting in the way. Then re-install it after you have rotated past it.

Hope my ramblings make sene and help you.

That makes sense. Thanks. It's odd that my turbo shipped in the 9:00 and 3:00 position respectively for the inlet and drain. I'll probably go with 11:00 and 5:00 for inlet and drain so my oil braided line isn't sticking straight up.

I better try to get back to sleep. This [email protected] has me up almost every night...

Ok, this is where I'm at. I got the oil drain line cut and fitted. I had to clock the turbo to about 12-6 to get the oil lines to line up. There was no way I could do 11-5. Got some pics below.

I also got my TMIC fit to the turbo.

Finally, I received the AMS cam tools from Greg aka "mccanixx"... Let me just take a moment and say thank you to Greg. I personally think it's a big deal to lend a tool to someone across the country who you don't even know, who could just steal your tool, or whatever. Anyway, Greg sent me the tool express shipping so I could get my engine dropped in this weekend. I wish I could bake him a cake or something but It'd probably turn out awful. Anyway... gigantic props to Greg.

Finally!!! I got my Prosport gauges and I'm super excited. The Subtle Solutions ashtray pod came in earlier this week.

Enjoy the porn below:

This is my oil drain line. It was a pain in the ass. No joke.

This shows a) my TMIC hooking up to my rotated turbo and b) my oil IN and DRAIN line. It's a tight bend, I'll admit but I don't think there should be any problems:

I had to get a file and shave a bit of the TGV housing for this to fit comfortably...

Full shot of the engine from the side:

My Prosport gauges!!:

AMS Cam Tools:

I want to follow up this post and say that I know that NASIOC get a bunch of s**t for having members who are less than, um, civilized... Maybe us in the BUILT MOTOR DISCUSSION just bring a more tame and educated point of view. All I have to say is that everyone here has been extremely helpful. And nice. And polite. And full of good information. And just all around awesome.

I decided at the last minute to wrap my up pipe. The chance of an oil leak getting on it is much smaller than my exhaust manifold and crossover pipe. When I get the engine up and going and there are no oil leaks, then I will probably wrap the manifold.

Anyway, I got the engine in yesterday. It was kind of a marathon. I got the timing belt tensioner pin put back in using a press, then had a buddy help me hold the cam gears while I put the timing belt on. I had no problems with the oil warmer/cooler using the correct length bolt. Motor mounts looked fine so I reused them. The only thing that I really half assed was the timing belt covers. I should have cleaned them and repainted them, but whatever. I cleaned up every single nut and bolt (for the entire engine, all of them) plus wire wheel brushed them, so I'm not going to worry about a crappy plastic cover.

The only big hangup out of the whole thing stems from the dowel pin on the transmission. I didn't notice that apparently when I removed my other engine that one of the pins stayed in the tranny. Fast forward to having the engine already dropped in the bay and trying to get the engine and tranny to mate up. We were losing light so it wasn't immediately obvious why the engine just would not mate up correctly... Once we realized what was going on, we tried everything to pull it out. Locking pliars, etc...

So... out went the engine. I crawl in the engine bay and tap the pin with a hammer. I notice that it moves inward. So I wacked it flush, then got a punch and popped it through the back side. Took about 2 minutes. Finally, drop the engine back in and it mates up perfect. I got almost all the bolts on before it was dark and called it a night.

I had no fitment issues keeping the downpipe on - and I probably could have kept the turbo on as well, but I elected to keep it off so it didn't get wacked accidentally.

Today was a lot slower paced. It rained for part of the morning so there wasn't much I could do. So I set a low goalpost for myself. All I really wanted to do was get the engine --> transmission bolts tightened, and to get the pulley torqued to spec. I spent a lot of time fiddling around with one particular bolt. It's the one right under the bottom starter nut. I have a picture below. The frustrating thing about it is that it's easy to get to, easy to get a wrench on, but it's impossible to torque the wrench more than a few degrees because there is no room. Forget about sockets. I decided to grind one of my 14mm wrenches to see if I could get it to clear the tight space. Verdict: Success. I had it tightened in less than 30 seconds.

Finally, I got my TiAL MVR opened up and popped in a 1 bar spring combo. It is a GIANT pain in the ass to press it down by yourself while trying to tighten the screws. I finally gave up and asked the lady to help thread the screws. A press would have been handy...

Anyone know how to get hold of STi Mikey (Michael Botti)? I'd prefer email, but phone would be ok as well. I sent him money for a speed density tune 1/13/13 and I haven't heard from him since. He was great with communication up until the day that I sent him the money. After that he has not answered on PM of mine. I see that he has been logged on to NASIOC since then so it's my assumption he's got my PM's.

I've heard from him since the 13th, dude get's a lot of emails/pms. I'll PM you his email....

Thanks for the PM! Mikey actually beat you to it. I guess I just need to be patient. He probably didn't respond because he knew my car can't run until I receive my INTAKE............. *cough* *garris* *cough* lol

My tuner (STi Mikey) told me a couple days ago that he wouldn't tune Speed Density over the internet without me having a Cobb Accessport due to safety reasons. I don't exactly understand what those safety reasons are, but I assume there is a legitimate reason so... more money to spend!

Anyway, I sent out a few offers here on NASIOC for some used V2 AP's and got no love. One guy actually sent me a reply PM to my $375/shipped offer that was quite, um, snotty. Well, I trucked it on over to eBay and picked one up with 4 seconds left for $350 with free shipping. Yup, I sniped it!

So, my cold air intake is going to be finished up soon (thanks Garris/morrocco88!!!). The weather should be nice this weekend, so my goal is to finish putting my accessories on (radiator, turbo, wastegate, wastegate muffler, AC, PS pump, fuel lines, etc) and then put some fluids in and get ready for the first start up.

I do have a bit of a conundrum... stick with 91 octane or go with e85???

I have been eyeballing FiveO 1200cc side feed injectors, and I am quite impressed with their price. I read the review thread and the initial quality wasn't very good. A lot of bad injectors went out, but lately I it seems the quality has improved. I wonder if anyone here has any person experience?

I'm reeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaallllllllllllllyyyyyyy thinking of picking up some 1200cc's!!! I could sell my DW 850's and break even. Not to mention I have a set of Witchhunter 850's I'm trying to sell.

Do I need to be talked off a cliff with these FiveO twelve hundreds???

I did a search and I have e85 pretty much within a 30 mile radius of me, and that radius extends a few hundred miles (with e85 gas stations with max intervals of 50 miles), so no range anxiety. With the Cobb Accessport, I could run an e85 tune as my primary tune, and keep a 91 Octane tune on the back burner if I ever need it.