Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Wolfing Down By the River

Brasserie Wolf

The Pier @ Robertson

80 Mohamed Sultan Road

Singapore 239013

Tel: 68357818

Our last experience in a brasserie was in Le Nord (accredited with the legendary Master Chef Paul Bocuse) in the French city of Lyon during the month of January this year which left us with a better impression than the ones we have been to in Paris. Back home, we have heard rave reviews of a new and happening place by the river called Brasserie Wolf, which is the latest baby of the Esmirada Group. N and I decided that this would be the place to take our close friend Karen for her birthday treat since she also loves checking out new places.While the restaurant looks new and modern from the outside, its interior is decorated with Parisian art pieces with historical ancedotes, giving it a retro feel back to the 1800s. Service staffs are decked in modern garb instead of the traditional brasserie uniforms which pulls us back to reality of the present day.The beverage menu is dominated by regional French wines, with snippets of Spanish, Italian and New World bottles for variety sake. Traditional French fare designed by Chef Philippe Nouzillat, makes up most of the food menu with specialties from regional areas.

Each of us had our own starter with extra orders of the escargots and mussels to be shared around. There was a Duck Foie Gras with Caramelized Apples and Aged Balsamic Vinegar which made N and Karen went goo goo gaga over it. A generous piece of liver was served with slightly tart caramelized green apples which would make gourmets impressed but a cholesterol nightmare for health freaks. On the palate, the acidity from the apples and vinegar helps to cut through the richness of the foie gras. The charred corners of the duck liver released notes of burnt buttery fragrance and it was also very well complimented with the Chablis in the glasses.

N enjoyed a creamy Prawn Cocktail with Avocado where chunks of prawn meat are tossed up with diced avocados in a piquant mayonnaise based cocktail sauce. It is served filled in a half avocado shell on a bed of mesclun mix with a large prawn sitting atop as a crown to the salad. K’s hubby took on the Frisee Salad with Bacon and Poached Egg, also commonly known as Lyonaise Salad. In between the bitter greens and tangy vinaigrette, the bacon chunks and warm poached egg with oozing yolk were nice alternatives between bites and crispy croutons instilled the fun element of crunch to the salad.

The Charcuterie Platter was my choice with a smorgasbord of Proscuito, Salami, Air Dried Beef and a piece of Pate Campagne. Among the selections, the salami and Proscuito were really good while the air dried beef looked tired. The pate was a little too dry for my taste and bland.Passing around the table were two soups, a Lobster Bisque with dices of lobster instead of crabmeat as stated and a classic French Onion Soup with Comte Cheese Crouton. Nonetheless, the lobster soup was full of shellfish flavour although the colour was a little pale compared to most other bisques that I have come across with. I prefer the more macho bodied French Onion Soup with the gratin of Comte Cheese, one of my favourite French cheeses. The cheese has a nice nutty fragrance when eaten on its own, melted down, it gives a mild sharp pungency with creamy buttery notes of fragrance and roasted hazelnut notes.The escargots and mussels got in at the same time, the “moules” steamy hot from their bath in a fruity white wine broth enriched with olive oil, garlic and parsley. Dunking pieces of bread into the delicious broth to soak up the mussel juices, it soon got everyone hooked on it in no time. Frites or French fries made from fresh potatoes where also offered but nobody seemed to pay attention to it as we were all was busy with the bread and broth.

I like the escargots here better than the ones in Le Nord. Though they were smaller than the ones we had in Lyon, the butter-garlic-parsley sauce was more aromatic than the last round.

Most of the mains came in hearty portions. There was a veal chop, a duck leg confit, a filet of black cod, a fine cut of sirloin, a crisp up braised pork trotter and a roasted spatchcock. Veal chop was a little overcooked but was saved by the fact that we had requested medium done. It would be a culinary injustice to over do the veal chop but at medium well, it was still manageable. The wild mushroom sauce was fine but I felt that it lacked a little oomph of a forest character which would have called for hints of porcini or morel flavours. Duck leg confit came on beautifully crisp without excessive greasiness on braised potatoes. Either the kitchen had forgotten about the sauce or it was supposedly to be so good that it didn't need one. Indeed it was, not too salty and fork tender that it was like eating a duck version of “Sio Bak” or Cantonese Roast Pork. The side salad also helped the duck confit to cut through the fattiness giving it a delicate balance of rich complexity and yet tangy.The only seafood main course on the table, my black cod was served with a sauté of artichokes and tomato confit which seemed more like sun dried tomatoes in oil. Anyway they were too sour for my liking while the artichokes were fine. The fish was very well done, nice and moist flakes with sweetness. A sauce of lobster foam which tasted like the froth up lobster bisque earlier enhanced the “seafood” character of the dish with creamy shellfish notes.Pied de Cochon or Crispy Braised Pork Trotters was a reconstituted cake of de-boned trotter meat pan fried in its own fat till crispy, served on a bed of sautéed potatoes and mushrooms. The meat was very tender, just like pulled pork in US, literally melting in mouth with rich gelatinous notes on the mouth feel.

The cock and bull were meant for Karen’s two boys and we, the adults managed to steal a bite from their plates given the generous portions when the boys where busy with their Game Boys. The Roasted Spatchcock had notes of rosemary and was lifted by pungent raw garlic infused mayonnaise. The meat was quite juicy and at times I felt that the mayonnaise was not necessary, better to have it with the French fries instead. A 250g sirloin cooked perfectly medium was too much for an 11yr old boy and certainly I wouldn't mind sharing a piece or two. The beef was cooked to a lovely pinkish red hue which would have caused saliva dripping if one had been starving. Béarnaise, a warm fresh tarragon and butter flavoured mayonnaise like sauce long forgotten on the menus here in Singapore gave the steak a sinfully rich kiss of indulgence.Overall I felt the tastes of the dishes were fine and aesthetics on presentation with a touch of finesse. The menu prices, comparable with Reif + James, which is just a couple of units away within the same property, did not justify with the style of presentation. Of course the quality of ingredients was undeniably good and that still matters most to me.

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About Me

Trained at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and SHATEC, spanning 20 years of culinary experiences in hotels, restaurants, private yachts, personal chef services and food science, Chef Eric has done many successful partnerships with PA and private culinary studios. His workshops are informative, educational and inspiring to all who share a passion for food both in travelling, cooking and eating. He builds the success of the workshops through the participants’ successes of cooking up a great meal at home!!
Chef Eric’s culinary achievements include being a WACS certified culinary judge for international and national level culinary events, a recipient for World Gourmet Summit At-Sunrice GlobalChef Awards 2005, Guest Chef for the Singapore Tourism Board’s Singapore Food Festival 2008 Makan Classes, PA’s annual Singapore Culinary Journey Series. Other accolades include judging at FHA Culinary Challenge 2010, Penang Culinary Challenge 2012. He was also a Team Assistant to the Singapore National Culinary Team for Food and Hotel Asia (FHA) 1998 Salon Culinaire.

What past participants say about my cooking workshops

Dear Chef,

Congratulations on your award, we feel honoured to learn under a world class chef. I enjoyed your lessons very much because firstly it's cheaper than any other schools outside, and your recipes are interesting & easy to follow. I have cooked your recipes on several occasions and my family enjoy the change in my style of cooking very much.

Thanks & RegardsMay April 21, 2005

Hi Chef Yong,

I attended your class on Roast Beef at CSC last night and really really enjoyed it! (I was the one sitting in front right at the side asking many questions and first to help you take the samples to pass around the class), and I am actually a trained Home Economics teacher and still I found your lessons useful, your tips helpful, your teaching patient and thorough. I immediately recommended your classes to my friends and colleagues :) I will def adopt and adapt some of your recipes for my young students in time to come.

Dear Chef Yong,Yesterday was my first time attending your class and I enjoyed it. It was my first time too coming to know about the different types of sauces,vinegars and herbs. I'm new to Western cooking. I'm looking forward to attend your next workshop next Wed at CSC.

Have a nice day!RachelParticipant from Civil Service Club15th November 2007

Hello Chef , I've just attended your cooking class and I wish to be on your Mailing list.PS: the food is GREAT! (: Thank You and God BlessLim Siew GekSaturday 30th June 2007

Dear Chef,I attended your last class at cainhill last Saturday morning. The dishes were very yummy. Which civil service club are you teaching? I check there were a few.RegardsJennifer AngMonday 25th June 2007

Hi ChefI enjoyed your Italian cooking class on 23 June (Sat) morning. The pasta and grilled chicken were simply yummy! I also enjoyed the tomato based sauce which was served with the grilled chicken. Would appreciate if you could let me have the recipe for the tomato sauce.Hope to attend more of your classes in future. Will be checking out your blog for updates.

Thank you.Lisa.Sunday 24th June 2007

Dear Chef,
I have enjoyed your cooking classes and my family are always looking forward for your class.
The Pasta Carbonara was so.........so delicious and the best I ever tested in Singapore.
Cheers
Yik Huey
23rd April 2007

Dear ChefA very happy, healthy and successful new year to you and your family.

I have attended all your Chinese New Year workshops (menu #4 to #9) and I am impressed - you make cooking seem so easy and your recipes are yummy.Thanks for sharing.I have prepared some of the recipes for my family renunion dinner and received rave reviews - "yummilicious, refreshing change, taste good and look good..." In fact many relatives are asking for recipes of the cereal prawns, xo meepok,braised duck and black glutinous rice.I am in the midst of sorting out your recipes and would appreciate if you will send me the brochures/pdf files on menu 4 to 7 for my file.

Thanks again.

With kind regardsLynda LowWednesday, February 28, 2007

Dear Chef,I am Carmen from Colombia. I took some cooking lessons in Marine Parade last year and enjoyed them very much with my friend Zuleyca from Argentina. I am leaving Singapore next week. I'm going to England. I will miss your lessons a lot. Congratulations for your great work. I hope my friend Zuleyca can continued having this lessons. Thanks a lot for your information and all the best for you and your family. Kind regards Carmen
29th May 2006

Hi Chef,
Thanks for sharing all your interesting recipes with us.
Looking forward to all your upcoming interesting recipes. Glad to note that there is a menu focusing on "Hi Tea session" as I do love to invite friends for some simple delights of such. I must say that I enjoyed and love all your Italian pasta classes. It is really good and fantastic.
Thanks again to your passion in food and willingly share with us all the interesting recipes. I truly learned and enjoyed most of your classes that I attended. You are simply the BEST!
Regards,
Puihun
8th July 2006

Dear Chef,
What a lovely Tiramisu that was. Heavenly! The lamb and the salad were fantastic, too.
Regards,
Kay Parkinson June 28th 2006