after someplaying i found time to notice my Turbo is only 7% more Lumens (ceilingbounce in 3 locations) than full ramp

using my BenchPowerSupply (@16,8V) it draws 1,9A full ramped and 2,5A on Turbo

any idea?

btw:
using 4 30Q BT i get 1% lower numbers in front cage, and 3% lower numbers in rear cage

In testing I was barely able to see any difference between Turbo and High. From memory I measured just over 10% difference in output but that was with the proto led.
High should be 2 amps at the led and turbo 2.5 amps.

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My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife.

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Here is MRsDNF runtime chart for 4 30Q from post #4 of the main GT thread. You can see that at 2.5A your run times suffer quite a bit (blue line). At 2A the runtimes are much better (red line). So for short usage where you need max output turbo makes sense, but for long runtimes (at almost the same output) it’s better to use 2A.

If you look at that 160 line (roughly when output starts to drop) the 2.5A reaches it in 35 minutes. The 2A reaches it in 55 minutes. At the 2A setting you get a 57% boost in run time for a tiny bit less output! I think it’s for this very reason that NarsilM v1.2 was designed to have the ramp stop short of max. (Correct me if I’m wrong)

So 2A is definitely the mode to run for practical purposes and longer run times. The 2.5A is there for max output and distance even though it drains the batteries way faster.

The XHP35HI is maxed out at around 2.5amps so you cant expect to many more lumens. Plus it depends on the binning of the LED.

New binning is E2 instead of D4.
Amps will be same at 2,5A.

Binning D4 is about 550lm at 85°C at 350mA and about 4,8 times more at 2500mA (2630lm, Test Texas_Ace).

I know that calculated lumen are most not correct, but I hope, that with Binning E2 I can get:
Binning E2 about 590lm at 85°C at 350mA and about 4,8 times more at 2500mA, so about 2850lm, so about 8% more lumen output and perhaps 8% more range.

The XHP35HI is maxed out at around 2.5amps so you cant expect to many more lumens. Plus it depends on the binning of the LED.

New binning is E2 instead of D4.
Amps will be same at 2,5A.

Binning D4 is about 550lm at 85°C at 350mA and about 4,8 times more at 2500mA (2630lm, Test Texas_Ace).

I know that calculated lumen are most not correct, but I hope, that with Binning E2 I can get:
Binning E2 about 590lm at 85°C at 350mA and about 4,8 times more at 2500mA, so about 2850lm, so about 8% more lumen output and perhaps 8% more range.

I’m really lost on what your saying here. Are you trying to remove the driver?
If your wanting to reflash it you have room to do so without removing it. Check post #33 and you can see the room you have.

I don´t have know how and equipment for flashing drivers, so I removed driver and switch board and will send it to a colleague.
Driver will be reflashed with NarsilM, but with changing Ramping up to 100% (2,5A).
LEDs on switch board will be changed to blue or orange, or complete switchboard will be changed.

I’m not sure who to send this to so please excuse me ,To anyone that could help me Thank You
I haven’t heard anything about my BLF GT w/batteries starting to get a little concerned at this point if it will ever show up, could someone please let me know what’s going on ,,Thank You I think I was # 975 I paid for it on 12-10-2017,,Thank You I’m not sure if this is the right Neal to contact.
Any Help would be greatly appreciated..

I’m not sure who to send this to so please excuse me ,To anyone that could help me Thank You
I haven’t heard anything about my BLF GT w/batteries starting to get a little concerned at this point if it will ever show up, could someone please let me know what’s going on ,,Thank You I think I was # 975 I paid for it on 12-10-2017,,Thank You I’m not sure if this is the right Neal to contact.
Any Help would be greatly appreciated..

Check post #1 of the GT thread. The last orders (about 50 lights) should be picked up by the shippers today. Sometime after that Neal will get the tracking numbers and send them out to the customers. That’s the latest news I’ve heard.

Just noticed something strange; when I turn on the GT it flashes 3 times and then dims a bit. If I perform the battery test (triple tick) it looks like it is indicating 2.2V? I have tested (and recharged) the batteries and they are at 4.2V.

Also, sometimes when I turn on the light it flashes 8 times and then switches off. I have performed a ‘factory reset’ (perhaps my son played around with it and messed up the configuration) but this gives the same results. What could this be?

Hmm, that is very strange indeed, particularly if it was working and is not now. That makes even less sense.

First thing I would do is rule out the batteries and carriers. First look over both carriers by eye for any signs of damage, shorts, loose or missing screws. Then try some other cells if you have them. Only use one carrier, try that single carrier in both the front and back position, try the other carrier ect.

See if any combo of cells and carrier makes a difference.

If none of that helps at all, then I think we have ruled out the cells and carrier and the issue must lie in the driver.

Next step would be to pull out the driver, this is pretty simple and you can try getting a good picture of it for us to look at. See if you notice any shorts or missing components.

Hmm, that is very strange indeed, particularly if it was working and is not now. That makes even less sense.

First thing I would do is rule out the batteries and carriers. First look over both carriers by eye for any signs of damage, shorts, loose or missing screws. Then try some other cells if you have them. Only use one carrier, try that single carrier in both the front and back position, try the other carrier ect.

See if any combo of cells and carrier makes a difference.

If none of that helps at all, then I think we have ruled out the cells and carrier and the issue must lie in the driver.

Next step would be to pull out the driver, this is pretty simple and you can try getting a good picture of it for us to look at. See if you notice any shorts or missing components.

Do you have the ability to reflash the mcu?

Thanks for your rapid response; I will try everything you mentioned above and report back here with the results.

I have no experience with reflashing an mcu but always can dive into that if needed…

Ok, I tried the various carrier combinations and that did not help. I also used a multi-meter and both carriers measure 16.99 volts but still the voltage check of the light itself reports 2.2 volts (and I get either 3 flashes and the the light dims or 8 flashes and the light switches off).

I’ll try to open the head, inspect the driver and take some pictures next…

Ok, I tried the various carrier combinations and that did not help. I also used a multi-meter and both carriers measure 16.99 volts but still the voltage check of the light itself reports 2.2 volts (and I get either 3 flashes and the the light dims or 8 flashes and the light switches off).

I’ll try to open the head, inspect the driver and take some pictures next…

Edit: hmm, tips on how to get to the driver?

Driver retainer might be loose. Remove battery tube and flip the head over, the large Aluminum ring with 4 holes is the driver retainer. Check if it’s tight. This retainer needs to be removed to get the driver out.

Ok, I tried the various carrier combinations and that did not help. I also used a multi-meter and both carriers measure 16.99 volts but still the voltage check of the light itself reports 2.2 volts (and I get either 3 flashes and the the light dims or 8 flashes and the light switches off).

I’ll try to open the head, inspect the driver and take some pictures next…

Edit: hmm, tips on how to get to the driver?

Driver retainer might be loose. Remove battery tube and flip the head over, the large Aluminum ring with 4 holes is the driver retainer. Check if it’s tight. This retainer needs to be removed to get the driver out.

Correct, a pair of small needle nose piers can usually be used to loosen or tighten the ring.

It is strange the carriers are reading 16.99v, with fully charged cells at 4.2V each they should only be reading 16.8v. Could your meter be off? Not a big deal but still odd.

I was able to remove the container and take a look at the board but the wires are pretty short and probably I need to desolder the wires to get the board completely out?

Are there spare driver boards available which might solve the issue?

To remove the driver you have to unsolder the 2 big red and black wires on the led, then unscrew the switch bezel and push the switch pcb through the hole. Then the driver will come out.

You turn the switch pcb sideways and use the notches.

Lumintop is supposed to have some extra drivers available for warranty purposes.

I’ve found that sometimes just loosening the driver and then tighten it back up can sometimes fix things. I think when you loosen the driver retaining ring the driver can slide around. I make sure to center the driver before tightening the ring back up. Thus helps make sure I don’t get a short circuit on any driver components.

For instance, C17 and R6 are pretty close to the drivers edge. If the driver gets shifted to the side, you might short one of those and cause all kinds of issues.

You can also hold a loaded battery carrier directly on the driver so that you know it’s making good contact. Try this and see if it makes a difference.