COOTWORLD

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The Information was collected from a number of owners and multiple web sources.The Coot Service Manual contains detailed information on all things Coot. When in doubt go to The Book!

Coot BrakesTedHi all. I just converted to an Airheart hydraulic master cylinder and 150 series caliper. With a spacer the caliper works great with the stock coot disk. After I got the system bled it is no problem to skid 4 tires on concrete. I mounted the master cylinder on an angle bracket beside the seat with a hand lever to actuate the brakes. I had a hard time finding fluid for this system. There are 2 repair kits for these units. One if for DOT 3 brake fluid and the other is for Mil. Spec 5606. After calling a few lubricant shops I finally tracked the stuff down as Military grade extreme high and low temp Hydraulic fluid. Another 3 calls and I found some locally. I think if I rebuild these units again I will specify the other kit as brake fluid is available everywhere and aircraft hydraulic fluid. isn’t.

DaveI also need a repair kit for my Airheart brakes. Can you tell me where to get the pads and kit??

DougCongrats on the conversion. Any chance of posting some pictures of the installation as it's something I would very much like to add to my Coot.

Ted

http://www.commetkartsales.com open the online catalog, when the page opens on the left is (catalog) scroll down and click on brakes then pick your brand. There are some really great manual systems of all sizes so take a look at them. I got this idea from looking at motorcycle brake systems that have a remote fluid tank and a hydraulic pedal for the rear brake. Hunt the wrecking yards and look at their designs.

I found a couple of places on the net where I could get replacement brakes at go kart dealers but I would like to restore this Coot as close as possible.

John B. KrukI got brake pads at an ARCTIC CAT SNOWMOBILE DEALER. If I recall, they were an exact fit. Pads were Arctic Cat P/N 0109-471 for use on JAGUAR 75-78.JoeWYep -- that is the one I got cost me $9.00 each. Lady at the parts counter found it by looking at the figures. Now we all have model, year, and most importantly the part number -- Perfect fit. Is also nice to know that the go cart uses the same one so there are at least two sources.VanTHE Murray go kart uses the same brake pads. Part # 776938TedTry taking your backing disks to a brake and clutch shop and having them relined. Another possibility is to buy some clutch or brake pad material and grind it to fit your backings. The airheart brake I have uses an all-weather adhesive to glue the brake material onto the disk backing. Good CootingJoeWThanks Ted. I will try that this morning. Cheeze, I can sure be dumb sometimes. But then, I have never tried to restore a vehicle before. Ignorance can be a pain in the neck and everyone's patience is appreciated. I am learning, slow but sure. Someone else mentioned using a sand blaster on the inside of the Coot so I went and bought one. It does a great job. Now I gotta get the sand out out of it. I am learning, it is just slow and costly.

I can't get that key out of the torque converter so I had to buy a new one for the new engine and that little piece of ignorance cost me another $150.00. Such is life.Went to the local Arctic Cat dealer and got the brake pucks for $8.98 each. The part number is 0109-471. The first one she looked up for the 1974 Cat was too small. The manual showed an Arctic Cat "Polaris" type brake that looked identical to the Coot brake and it fit perfectly. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get the non-movable puck out and glue the new one in. I assume that I can just beat it out of there. Does anyone know what these things are glued with.

HowardHi Joe,

Glad that worked out. When I took my caliper apart the non-moving puck came out easy. Yours may just be gummed up or maybe someone glued it in? hds

ps...when you get it all cleaned up and put back together you need to adjust the clearance between the pads and the disk to 5 thousands of an inch. The disk is supposed to float on the Torque Transmitter shaft. Anti seize lubricant is a good ideaJoe WIt looks like someone put some sort of gasket maker around the edges of the puck, perhaps inside too for all I know. It is locked tight. I am glad to know I don't have to glue it back in as it seems it shouldn't need that. There is no place for it to go once the caliper and pads are in place. Maybe someone just a little dumber than me couldn't figure that one out.

One way to fix the brakes if they are worn: I guess I'm cheap, but I just removed the pads and flipped them over. First I wrapped tape around the perimeter & filled the worn area with J&B Weld. When it set I sanded them parallel to the un-worn side & flat so they would sit flat in the "holder". Added a little more J&B to glue them in. This should last another 10 or 20 years of forgetting to release the brake before driving off. They work as good as new now. A foot brake would sure be nice on these hills at times! I'm thinking of adding a micro switch & a light on the dash to remind me that the parking brake is on. I don't seem to look at the lever, which should be enough of a reminder.