I just did these modifications to my new bi-tone Taurus 738. It used to jam sometimes. I took it to the range and fired 100 rounds of reloads thru it and it did not jam once. Now I feel very confident to carry my 738. Thanks for posting the info.

I have a C serial # as well and I can't even cycle rounds through it by hand. They all FTE unless I am EXTREMELY aggressive with the slide and even then sometimes it will still jam. Can you cycle rounds through yours with ease?

My "B" model had FTFs(failure to feed) while hand cycling the first round. I fixed it by wrapping some 1000 grit sandpaper around a thin file and smoothing the lower rear edge and outer rear edge of the extractor. I no longer have FTFs while hand cycling.

Got a "model A" back and I'm quite pleased with the repair or should I say basically a replacement of all the parts to newest generation. Gun does not like cheap ammo (Tula). Shot 100 rounds of remington jhp without any malfunctions. If you're having any trouble, I would strongly recommend sending it back and ask for upgraded parts. MaStA should send your gun back. I bought another one about a year ago which did the exact same thing and it was from a batch of TCP's that had a deformity in the feed ramp. As far as the mods go, I would not. Let taurus replace those poorly designed parts that need mods with ones that don't. My ejector does not interfere with the seating of the ammo and my ammo does not make contact with the slide stop. If too much is material is removed the gun, it will not function properly. Others have said and I know this for a fact, small caliber semi-auto guns have to be kept very clean. The smaller the bore the quicker it fouls. I cleaned it only once during that test. I would strongly recommend keeping it cleaned and never carry it dirty. There's no mystery to it. When down sizing a full size semi- auto to a smaller version, all of those same parts just get crowded into a smaller area, thus less room for error. I love pocket guns and I trust this one to work if my wife needs it. My only criticism of Taurus is they basically let the public do their beta testing. fyi , the turn around was very quick through Academy Sports.

My "B" model had FTFs(failure to feed) while hand cycling the first round. I fixed it by wrapping some 1000 grit sandpaper around a thin file and smoothing the lower rear edge and outer rear edge of the extractor. I no longer have FTFs while hand cycling.

E. J.

After putting 106 flawless rounds through my C revision everything seems to be working much smoother thankfully. Next time I'm at the range I will put another 100 rounds through it and if all goes well again I will feel confident with this pistol. I would of put more through it the last time, but my hand started hurting and a piece of my thumb and index finger were getting rubbed on something which was pretty painful. This pistol is like a firecracker going off in your hand, but it is pretty accurate at the 5-7 yards I was shooting it and the tighter you hold it the less it hurts I found. I ordered a pachmayr grip and another magazine from MidwayUSA, but they are on back order. Hopefully the grip helps me out next time.

Before going to the range I bought a cheapo file set from Harbor Freight and tried some of these modifications, but the file set didn't seem to be doing much. The pistol still had difficulty chambering rounds prior to going to the range, but things are much better now so we shall see.

I made all the mods mentioned. Polished the upper & lower ramps and cocking rail, de-cornered the mag stop, smoothed the barrel ridges and took off just enough metal from the nose of the extractor face so a cartridge can sit flush against the breech without the extractor face pressing against the cartridge bevel. Shoots all ammo just fine with zero failures to eject. I'd like to be more clear on the suggested mod to the magazine lips before I get gonzo with the pliers - a photo or two would be appreciated.

I did have a couple of failures to fire due to the slide not returning all the way to the fully locked position - it would stop 1/8 inch short of the fully closed position so the firing pin wouldn't make contact with the primer. This seems to have been a dirt issue. After a good cleaning, the slide snaps fully closed easily and reliably. I've read a few posts that advised using gun grease instead of oil on the slide rails. I have a tube of TW25B grease on the way and will report here. Anyone tried this stuff?

I just picked up a TCP as a backup/off duty carry weapon. I did the modifications listed (before I had even shot the weapon) but, the extractor was holding the case away from the breech face. The barrel did have heavy machining marks and the slide was gritty to pull back but after sanding and polishing the outside of the barrel the slide moves smoothly. I also polished the outside of the chamber (for asthetics). I shot the gun today, a few rounds of zombie max 90 grain jhp and 50 rounds of remington fmj and had absolutely no problems. As a matter of fact I really enjoy this gun and am thinking about modifying the sights (to improve them). I did have one issue, at 15 yards my point of aim and point of impact were different. The gun shoots low 3-4", without grinding the front sight lower does anyone have any options to fix this?

This seems to have been a dirt issue. After a good cleaning, the slide snaps fully closed easily and reliably. I've read a few posts that advised using gun grease instead of oil on the slide rails. I have a tube of TW25B grease on the way and will report here. Anyone tried this stuff?

I haven't used that gun grease, but I do prefer gun grease instead of oil on slide rails, the recoil spring guide, and the parts of barrel that ride against the slide. Grease lasts a lot longer than oil in a shooting session.

I did have one issue, at 15 yards my point of aim and point of impact were different. The gun shoots low 3-4", without grinding the front sight lower does anyone have any options to fix this?

Before you do anything to the sights. Be sure to concentrate on holding the grip mostly between your middle finger and your palm/thumb. Your third and fourth finger are really back up support. If you add too much pressure with the third and fourth fingers, the gun may pull down with each shot.