The Norte in Galicia

Built on the hillside that rises up from the estuary, it is easy to feel like everywhere in Ribadeo is uphill.

In the city center, the Convento de Santa Clara (15th century with 18th century cloister) is the cornerstone of the church, while the 1910 Casa de Indianos...

History:

Ribadeo has had an on-again/off-again relationships with the camino for centuries. Prior to the bridge being built the broad river hear mean a difficult river crossing. Many pilgrims made the crossing but many more turned south to follow the path of least resistance, a much shorter bridge crossing...

Notice:

The scallop shells in Galicia are not installed with an orientation towards Santiago and having come from Asturias where they are it might be a bit confusing. Just remember to follow the arrow and ignore the shell.

The Road:

The camino through Ribadeo has been re-routed in recent years and now follows a route down to the waterfront and then back up. Of course, it is still possible to go the old way and avoid the elevation change. If that suits you, turn right at the first big intersection after you pass under the...

If the bar in Vilela is closed, the only option for buying supplies between here and Villamartín Grande is in San Vicente, a short detour from the camino described below.

The Road:

Take the turn off to the right to follow a smaller road through the forest. This road follows a broad bend and eventually turns back towards the LU-133 (which was the main road in Vilela). Before the camino gets all the way to the road, it turns to the right along a path.

The bridge here is the low point of todays walk and from here the camino begins a series of ascents and descents which are to become the de facto terrain in Galicia where level ground is seldom to be found. After the bridge the camino turns sharply right up a path and begins a climb to the top...

In Villamartín the camino rejoins the road at the lowest point in the valley, following it southwest for only a short distance. It is common to miss the turn off and continue some distance before noticing the mistake, so keep an eye open for the path on your right which marks the beginning of a...

The Benedictine Monastery of San Salvador is the most important building in town, and has been for over a thousand years. The entrance is about 3€ and is a worthwhile way to spend the afternoon. Around back is an ornate palomar (dovecote).

History:

The founding of Lourenzá is tied to the founding of the Monastery of San Salvador in the end of the 10th century.

Last Sunday of August.

The Road:

There are no services between here and Mondoñedo. From the municipal albergue, the camino leaves town along a well marked but narrow and cobbled path uphill. The path climbs to the top of this monte and joins the N-634 as it passes through the hamlet of Arroxo (just a few houses). Here it...

All roads seem to converge in the square in front of the Mondoñedo Cathedral; which is convenient because the Cathedral is on the list of must-see churches along the camino. It is also the reference point for getting out of town the following morning.

Coming into town you will...

History:

One of the more fantastic stories to emerge from the annals of Mondoñedo’s books is the legend of the Puente de Pasatiempo (the bridge of passing time). It centers around the fate of Pedro Pardo de Cela, who was ultimately beheaded in the Cathedral square. At the moment of his death, his wife was...

Os Remedios, a medieval market, is held on the first Sunday after the 8th of September.
The fiesta de San Lucas is held on the 18th of October.

The Road:

The camino beyond Mondoñedo is a confusing enterprise. The albergue in Lourenzá does their best to inform pilgrims but their opinions are biased and you are encouraged to consider all options, and to not give up if you can’t find the right starting point for your desired route to Gontán and then...

At the end of the small village the camino leaves the road. It turns left and begins a steep descent along a path. At the bottom is the A-8 and a large roundabout. The camino keeps to the north of the A-8 and follows along a series of roads into Gontán.

The two roads from Mondoñedo converge here. Gontán has seen little growth over the centuries despite having been a major trading post and crossroads. It is overshadowed by nearby Abadín.

The Road:

At the end of Gontán there is a small covered fountain opposite a sort of plaza/parking lot. Turn right to cross the parking lot and continue along the road on the opposite side, passing the Loran factory. This road ends at a junction, where you turn right and uphill to follow a pedestrian path...

Abadín is sustained by pilgrim traffic from the camino and truck traffic from the nearby interchange. From here to Santiago your proximity to road traffic increases as the camino tries to avoid the N-634 between here and Santiago.

Santa Maria is celebrated on the 8th of September.

The Road:

At the end of the very short Abadín, the camino turns right (following the sign to the Correos) and when it reaches the Correos it turns left. The road here is paved and quiet. Keep an eye open for the grassy trail that leaves the road to your right. It descends to cross the river and eventually...

The camino passes through As Paredes along the same road/trail that you entered on and will bring you back to the A-8, this time to pass underneath it into the hamlet of Castromaior. In Castromaior (not much more than a few houses) signs for the camino direct you back onto a path to Martiñan....

The camino reaches, and crosses, the N-634 in Martiñan. It winds its way along a series of back roads, all the while avoiding the N-634 traffic as best that it can. Eventually it returns to the busy road in Goiriz.

Through Goiriz you will have to walk along the N-634 for a short bit. Try to keep to the right as the turn isn’t far. Again the camino keeps away from the N-634. It will eventually return to a different road and follows the heavy traffic into Vilalba, passing around one large roundabout along...

Vilalba is a major traffic hub and can be a bit of a shock to walk through compared to the calm of the Galician countryside. Despite its size and the volume of traffic that passes through it, there is little to see and even less to do. The only exception being the Iglesia de Santa Maria...

History:

The most iconic building in Vilalba is the last remaining tower of the Castillo once owned by the Andrade family. The tower is now part of the Parador chain of hotels, the rest of the castle was destroyed during the first irmandiña uprisings.
Also known as “The Great Brotherhood War,” The...

The Festa dos Pepes is held on the 19th of March on the feast of San José.
Market days are on Tuesdays and Fridays.

The Road:

Mind the arrows through Vilalba. The streets here are usually jam packed with cars and trucks and they can be hard to see at times. The center of town is a jumble of roads heading in every direction.

Eventually you will pick up on the natural flow of the streets and before long near the...