Hill Country’s Draft Lines Finally Flow With Shiner

Since it opened in Manhattan in the summer of 2007, Hill Country Barbecue Market has had draft lines. But they remained dry. Only one beer would do, and it wasn’t available.

Until now. On Friday, the restaurant began serving Shiner beer.

“Part of the vision of Hill Country was Texas barbecue,” said Marc Glosserman, the owner, whose parents hail from Texas. “I really wanted to bring from Texas certain iconic brands, things you couldn’t get in New York.” Among them: Kreuz sausage, a specialty from a famed barbecue place in Lockhart; Big Red, a strawberry cream soda born in Waco; and Blue Bell ice cream. He found a way to get them all, but he couldn’t get the one thing he wanted most: Shiner beer.

Spoetzl Brewery in Shiner, Tex., the oldest independent brewery in Texas, has made Shiner since 1909, but it didn’t have a New York distributor. Mr. Glosserman’s pleading letters to Shiner (accompanied by a smoked brisket) went unanswered.

Still, the vigil went on. It had to. Hill Country customers shamed the restaurant staff daily for not having Shiner. There were up to 30 requests a day for the cherished beer, Mr. Glosserman said. “Half of our guests are either from Texas, have lived in Texas, or know people in Texas,” he said.

Finally, just over a week ago, Hill Country’s patience was rewarded. Shiner finally acquired New York distribution, and the restaurant is the first in the city to carry it on tap. The four raft lines will run Shiner Bock, the brewery’s flagship brand, a pilsner, an I.P.A. and a seasonal beer. Other Shiner brands will be carried in bottles.