Suggested Citation:"Squashes and Their Relatives." National Research Council. 1989. Lost Crops of the Incas: Little-Known Plants of the Andes with Promise for Worldwide Cultivation. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1398.

Suggested Citation:"Squashes and Their Relatives." National Research Council. 1989. Lost Crops of the Incas: Little-Known Plants of the Andes with Promise for Worldwide Cultivation. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1398.

Suggested Citation:"Squashes and Their Relatives." National Research Council. 1989. Lost Crops of the Incas: Little-Known Plants of the Andes with Promise for Worldwide Cultivation. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1398.

Suggested Citation:"Squashes and Their Relatives." National Research Council. 1989. Lost Crops of the Incas: Little-Known Plants of the Andes with Promise for Worldwide Cultivation. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1398.

Suggested Citation:"Squashes and Their Relatives." National Research Council. 1989. Lost Crops of the Incas: Little-Known Plants of the Andes with Promise for Worldwide Cultivation. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1398.

Suggested Citation:"Squashes and Their Relatives." National Research Council. 1989. Lost Crops of the Incas: Little-Known Plants of the Andes with Promise for Worldwide Cultivation. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1398.

Suggested Citation:"Squashes and Their Relatives." National Research Council. 1989. Lost Crops of the Incas: Little-Known Plants of the Andes with Promise for Worldwide Cultivation. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1398.

Suggested Citation:"Squashes and Their Relatives." National Research Council. 1989. Lost Crops of the Incas: Little-Known Plants of the Andes with Promise for Worldwide Cultivation. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. doi: 10.17226/1398.

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Squashes and Their Relatives
Cucurbits (Cucurbita species) are a collection of botanically related
food crops that includes what are variously called squashes, pumpkins,
vegetable marrows, and gourds. Among the first plants used by
mankind, they have long been among the most widely distributed.
Most are extremely versatile, being used as fruits, vegetables, edible
seeds, and oilseeds, as well as sources of fodder and fiber.
Traditionally, cucurbits have been particularly important in the
Americas. Together with corn and beans, they were a nutritional
mainstay of pre-Columbian civilizations such as the Incas, Mayas, and
Aztecs. Since Columbus' time, however, they have become popular
throughout most of the world. Today, they are eaten by millions of
people, but almost nowhere are they major crops. Moreover, for all
their value to people, cucurbits are (at least by comparison with the
major grain crops) much neglected by scientists.
This is unfortunate, because these plants, which typically are trailing
vines with extensive roots and harsh (often prickly) leaves and stems,
are well suited to the peasant or individual gardener. They have wide
adaptability and are easily cultivated. Their needs are usually satisfied
by moderate soil moisture, and once vigorous growth starts, they
seldom need weeding. They are little bothered by insect pests or heat.
When judged by nutritional yield and labor required per hectare, they
are among the most efficient of all crops.
Fruits are the major cucurbit product. Immature fruits are eaten as
green vegetables. Mature fruits are boiled or baked and are important
sources of starchy and sugary foods. The excellent keeping qualities
of the ripe fruits of some species allows them to be stored for months-
even years without special care. And, if cut in strips and dried in the
sun or over coals, the flesh of others will also keep for years.
Nutritionally, these fruits are excellent sources of vitamin A, vitamin
C, iron, and potassium. They are low in sodium. The young leaves
~ The archeological record indicates that some Cucurbita species entered into agriculture
by at least 6000 B.C.
203

204
LOST CROPS OF THE INCAS
and the flowers (especially the surplus male flowers) of several species
are sometimes eaten, and they, too, are sources of vitamins and
minerals. In some species, the seeds are roasted and consumed as a
snack and are often more prized than the flesh that surrounds them.
The seeds can have protein and oil contents of 30-40 percent.
Five richly Havored Andean cucurbits are discussed below.
SPECIES
Zapalo (W.'nter Squash). The squash2 (Cucurbita maxima), called
`'zapallo" (pronounced za-pie-oh) in the Andes, is of exclusively South
American origin. Its center of diversity lies in northern Argentina,
Bolivia, southern Peru, and northern Chile, but by the 1400s it had
been spread northward throughout the warmer parts of the Inca realm.3
At the time of Columbus, it was still confined to South America, but
today it is widely grown throughout the world, particularly in Europe,
India, the Philippines, and the United States. It is a winter-type4
squash and includes the table vegetable most often called "pumpkin,"
as well as many common vegetables called "squash."
More tolerant to cool temperatures than other squashes, this species
is grown as far south as the limits of agriculture in Chile. Using this
species, Chile and Peru have developed the most gigantic form of all
commercial "pumpkins." Fruits of 20-40 kg are commonly found in
markets.
This squash is noted for its rich diversity some authorities claim
it has more forms than any other cultivated plant. In the main, the
fruits are cylindrical, often bulbous, and have a central cavity filled
with fibers and seeds. Some brightly colored, highly attractive varieties
have become extremely popular specialty vegetables in the United
States in recent years. Chilean varieties that have become common
foods in the United States include Acorn, Banana, Boston Marrow,
Buttercup, Golden Delicious, and Hubbard.
Crookneck. This species (Cucurbita moschata) is apparently Mex-
ican or Central American in origin. However, it must have been spread
widely in prehistoric times because its center of diversity extends as
2 The common names of cucurbits are a muddle. Names such as "pumpkin" and
"squash" are used for different species in different countries. There are no internationally
recognized common names for Cucurbita maxima, C. moschata, and C. ficifolia.
3 A recent excavation in northern Argentina has disclosed a wealth of well-preserved
specimens, suggesting that it was a common cultivated plant in northern Argentina at
least as long ago as 500 B.C.
4 The name refers to an ability to be stored through the winter, not an ability to grow
in the cold.

SQUASHES AND THEIR RELATIVES
Zapallo can reach giant size. (H. Popenoe)
far south as northern Colombia and Venezuela. Apparently, it was
introduced to Peru as early as 3000 B.C.
At the time of the Spanish colonization, the crookneck was abundant
in northern South America and Central America.5 Today, it is grown
extensively in other parts of the world, especially in tropical Asia and
Japan. Highly esteemed varieties in the United States include such
cultivars as Butternut and Cushaw. It is the chief canning "pumpkin"
of the midwestern United States, eaten each year by millions of families
in Thanksgiving pie.
It, too, is a winter-type squash. However, it is well adapted to the
tropical lowlands where high temperatures and high humidity prevail.
It is notably resistant to the pesky squash-vine borer.
The plant yields five different products: mature fruits, which are
baked, steamed, or made into pie; young fruits, which are boiled; male
flowers, which are dipped in batter and fried as fritters (~bunuelos);
seeds that are roasted; and young tips of the vines, which are eaten
boiled. The seeds have a delightful, nutty flavor, and were probably
the product for which this plant was initially domesticated.
5 It had also been carried (probably via Mexico) to Florida, where the Indians grew its
vines on girdled oak trees. Early Florida settlers adopted it and called it the 'Seminole
pumpkin." Common names used in Latin America include ayote (Central America),
lacayote (Peru), joke (Bolivia), and auyama (Colombia, Venezuela).

206
LOST CROPS OF THE INCAS
Zambo. Indians in the Andes commonly grow this "import" from
Mexico. In fact, this squash (Cucurbita pcifolia'6 has become so
popular in the Andes that it is grown more frequently there than in its
native land.7 Today, it occurs from central Mexico through the high
plateaus of Central America and along the highlands of the Andes as
far south as central Chile. So far, it is little known elsewhere.
This species is another cool-climate (but not frost-tolerant) member
of the genus Cucurbita and is the only perennial among commercial
cucurbits. It is pest resistant and short-day flowering. In some places,
the rampant, irrepressible vine runs wild, climbing trees and shrouding
shrubs with its figlike leaves. Its elongated or globe-shaped fruits may
weigh 11 kg (even when not grown under forcing conditions) and are
white, green, or white and green striped. It has white flesh and is the
only squash with black seeds (a white-seeded race also exists).
Cultivated extensively in the Andean highlands mostly at 1,000-
2,000 m elevationsthe young fruits are used like zucchini. The mature
fruits are prized especially for desserts, usually cooked and served in
sweet syrup. They are also fed to domestic animals (horses, cattle,
and sheep) during the dry season.
No fruit anywhere keeps as well as these. Mature, they are commonly
stored (kept dry, but without any other special care) for two years,
and yet their flesh remains fresh and actually gets sweeter with age.
They are eaten boiled or in preserves. Immature ones can pass for
zucchini in looks and in recipes. Especially delicious and nutritious is
a pudding made by simmering this squash with milk and cinnamon.
The seeds are baked and eaten like peanuts and are greatly appre-
ciated. They have an unusually high concentration of oleic acid, the
prime ingredient in olive oil.
Achocha. Achocha9 (Cyclanthera pedata) is not a true squash,
but it belongs to the same family, Cucurbitaceae. It, too, is common
in the Andes. The fruits are small "gourds" 6-15 cm long, with
Hattened sides and soft spines. Pale green with darker green veins,
they have a spongy interior containing up to a dozen seeds.
Some immature achochas look and taste like tiny cucumbers, for
which they are fair substitutes in many culinary uses. (They are never
6 This species is known by several names in the Andes for instance, zambo (Ecuador),
Vitoria (Colombia), and lacayote (Peru).
7 Where it is called "chilacayote" or "tzilacayote." In Costa Rica and Honduras, its
name is "chiverre"; in New Zealand, "pie-melon."
~ It is common, for example, in the coffee belt of Colombia, its immature fruits selling
for good prices in Bogota.
9 A Quechua word. In the Andes it is also widely called "caihua." Elsewhere, it is
known as pepino de rellenar (Colombia), pepino andino (Venezuela), and variations on
"achoca" and "caihua."

SQUASHES AND THEIR RELATIVES
Achocha. (N. Vietmeyer)
crunchy, however.) Others are covered in soft green spines and have
a curious shaggy appearance. In the immature form (that is, before
the seed becomes black and hard), they can be eaten raw or cooked.
When mature, they are better cooked, and the hard, black seeds must
be removed. Filled with mincemeat or vegetables and baked, mature
achochas make a tasty dish, not unlike stuffed peppers, with a flavor
that has been likened to artichoke.
Achocha is undoubtedly of South American originprobably in-
cluding the Caribbean but it is found in Mexico as well. In fact, the
crop is cultivated from Mexico to Bolivia and grows prolifically in
mountainous valleys up to 2,000 m elevation.
Achocha has been tested in cultivation outside the Americas and
seems to have widespread promise. It fruits well in subtropical climates,
such as northern New Zealand. ~° In South Florida and southern Taiwan,
it has grown and set fruit well.- In Nepal, it is occasionally cultivated
at about 2,000 m elevation and has escaped in places. In England, it
has fruited in a greenhouse.
In several parts of the Andes, a wild relative, Cyclanthera exploders,
is used. The fruits of this species are eaten by peasants, boiled or as
a salad. Like achocha, this is a "poor-people's plant." It seems to
° Information from D. Endt.
~~ Information from H. Cortes B. and J. Leon. This plant is so named because when
the fruit matures, it throws the seeds explosively.

Casabanana. (E. Sarmiento G.)
tolerate more cold than other cucurbits. It grows at 2,600 m elevation
near Bogota.
Casabanana. Another cucurbit, this species (Sicana odorifera) is
found growing around houses in the foothills and lowlands of the
Andes. A fascinating and useful plant, its fruits look like long,
cylindrical, red-colored squashes. They are edible only when young,
at which time they can be eaten both raw and cooked. It is the mature
fruits, however, that are most prized. Although inedible, they exude
a strong, pleasant fragrance reminiscent of a blend of ripe melon and
peach. They are used as air fresheners to perfume kitchens, closets,
clothes, and Christmas creches. In Nicaragua, they are used to flavor
frescos, especially a drink known as "cojombro."
The casabanana is known only in cultivation (or as an escape from
cultivation); its origins are therefore uncertain. It is probably not of
Andean origin, although it was originally described from Peru. It may
have been brought from the eastern part of South America Paraguay
or Brazil perhaps.
The plant is well known in Mexico and Central America and has
been introduced, as a curiosity mostly, to France and possibly to other
European countries. The young fruits are eaten cooked in soups, but
|2 In Spanish it goes by many common names, including secana (Peru), pavi (Bolivia),
cagua (Colombia), pepino de olor, melocoton, and melon calabaza.

SQUASHES AND THEIR RELATIVES
209
the main product in Europe, as in Latin America, is this gourd's
pleasing and penetrating fragrance that will perfume a whole house.
PROSPECTS
The Andes. In the Andes, as in some other parts of the world,
squashes are considered to be food for the poor. Unfortunately, this
means that they have not received the scientific recognition and
research funding they deserve. This should not continue. Because they
are so easy to grow and so well liked, efforts to introduce pest-resistant
strains and improved modes of cultivation could bring big benefits to
some of the neediest people in the hemisphere.
Other Developing Areas. "Pumpkins" and " squashes" have vast
potential in subsistence farming. They are exceptionally attractive to
peoples lacking ready means of food preservation. And they are
outstanding as multipurpose plants. As noted, the young fruits, mature
fruits, seeds, and even Bowers can serve as food.
The germplasm of the Andes home to many cucurbits for thousands
of years is especially important for the entire developing world.
Currently, many Third World countries (Ethiopia, for example) have
only one or at best a small number of squashes, and even those have
almost no genetic variation. Thus, by and large, people outside Latin
America are unaware of the wealth of types available.
Industrialized Regions. Cucurbits now grow throughout the tem-
perate world and contribute a wide variety of products ranging from
the Halloween pumpkin of the United States to the glasshouse cucum-
ber of England. The important cultivated species are major market
crops in North America, southern Europe, and temperate Asia. In
addition, there is large commercial production of cucumbers in a
number of more northern countries.
However, the types that remain in the Andes are an important
unexploited resource. The squashes on the dinner tables of the future
could be far more colorful and tasty than those of today. Cucurbits
are excellent food for those who require acid-free diets. Most are
noted for their keeping qualities.~3
Moreover, the casabanana, with its penetrating fragrance, and the
achocha, with its eye-catching shaggy appearance, could both make
unusual specialty-produce items in many wealthy countries.
|3 Recently in Florida, for example, the crookneck has been found superior to the Cuban
calabaza for shipping to distant northern markets. Information from J. Morton.

This fascinating, readable volume is filled with enticing, detailed information about more than 30 different Incan crops that promise to follow the potato's lead and become important contributors to the world's food supply. Some of these overlooked foods offer special advantages for developing nations, such as high nutritional quality and excellent yields. Many are adaptable to areas of the United States.

Lost Crops of the Incas includes vivid color photographs of many of the crops and describes the authors' experiences in growing, tasting, and preparing them in different ways. This book is for the gourmet and gourmand alike, as well as gardeners, botanists, farmers, and agricultural specialists in developing countries.

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