Install the forward clutch piston (630) into the forward clutch housing (628). If reusing the Aluminum Forward Piston, Install Lip seals first. I do not use TransJel on the outer piston seal, Use ATF, Fit the Forward Piston into the Clutch Housing using you finger nail, Lube the Inner seal with Transjel.

**Note, Only use a 3-4 Apply Ring that has a 7 stamped on it, This is the shortest apply ring allowing the most room for 3-4 clutch stack-up**

Place the 3-4 Apply ring on the bench with "Fingers" up, Place the 3-4 clutch return spring assembly in the middle of the apply ring.

Place the Forward Piston & Housing on top of the return spring, Align the 5 tabs on the Forward piston with the Fingers on the apply ring.

Locate Forward Apply Plate, Looks like a Forward Steel but Thicker.
Drop the Apply plate down in the Drum from about 3 inches up.....
You SHOULD hear Metal to Metal contact between the Apply Plate & Forward Piston Tabs, If there is a soft thud, The Overrun clutches are too high...From a piston not seated, Foreign object, ETC.......Fix Now!!
646 in Post #51.

Next is the Forward Clutch Wave Plate, It has a Notch on 1 of tabs for I.D. purposes, I have seen this Plate end up in the Steel/Friction stack a number of times, Install on Apply Plate ONLY.
648 in Post #51.

Install 1 Forward Steel on top of Wave Plate, Do Not go any further at this time!

Install Heavy Forward Clutch snap ring. Use a 90 degree Awl & pull up on the snap ring after install to seat the snap ring OR Apply air to the hole between the 2nd & 3rd Sealing Ring on the Input Shaft, This will seat the Forward Clutch.

Check Forward Clutch Clearance, This is a "fairly" forgiving Clutch Pack. Shoot for .050 to .080, Up to .100" is acceptable.

Hold Forward Sprag down with 1 hand, Using a Flat Blade screwdriver or a Modified Trim tool mentioned earlier, Lift-Up then let Down the Forward Backing plate to visually check clearance.

Many builders don't install the release springs, I have never had an issue with using them. There is plenty of info on the subject & a ATSG bulletin saying not to use them. But I have Never traced a 3-4 failure back to the springs

If reusing this Drum, Replace Both Bushings!!, You have to "Part" the upper Bushing with a Cape Chisel....Find the parting line in the bushing (Not always easy to find) & Carefully part the Bushing. The other Bushing can be driven out.

Install the inner & outer Lip Seals on the piston, Lube both with TransJel.
Work Inner seal first, Then work the Outer.
Compress Return Spring Assembly, Install Snap ring

**Early 700R4's used a Steel Piston & a Wave Plate instead of a Belleville Plate, DO NOT interchange ANY parts between Early & Late Drums**

Install the Belleville Plate into the Drum (Outer Splined end Down, Contacting the Drum, Inner part of the Plate will face up, Contacting the First Steel.

Remove Pump Seal, Drive Pump Bushing out from the seal side of the Pump Cover.

Flip the Cover over, Install Pump Bushing from the Pump Pocket side, Coat the outside of the Bushing with Loctite before installation, Install Front Pump Seal, Use Loctite on the outside of the Seal.

Install the pivot pin spring (204) into hole.
Install the O-ring seal (202) and oil seal steel ring (201) into the groove on the back side of the pump slide (203).
Use TransJel to retain the seal and the ring on the slide.
Using TransJel, Install the pump slide seal support (208) and the pump slide wiper seal (209) on the slide.
Install the pump slide (203). **The oil seal ring must face downward into the pump pocket.**
Index the slide pivot notch with the pivot pin notch.
Work the pivot pin (205) between the Slide & Pump.

Install Inner & Outer Primer Springs, Some people use screwdrivers, I Compress the spring in the end of a Vise (with half the diameter sticking out) & knock the spring in with a Hammer Handle while holding the Pump Cover over the exposed part of the spring, Hold the Slide to the Cover while doing this.

Place 1 of the Pump Vane Rings in the Pump Pocket like shown above.
**Note, I Highly recommend Hard Steel Pump Rings in ALL 700R4's. TransGo & SPX make them, Use the stock Cast Rings at your own risk!!**

Stick the Rotor Guide on the back of the Pump Rotor using TransJel.

**Note, I use 10 Vane pump kits on all HP or HD 700R4's, I use 13 Vane Pump Kits on Stock to Mild builds.
10 Vane pumps create more Volume & less prone to breakage with big Boost Valves.
13 Vane pumps are quieter & Even out the pulses in pressure
DO NOT use Early 7 Vane pump rotors!!**

Place Pump Rotor with Guide facing down in the pocket, The Guide will center the Rotor in the Pump.

Install Pump Vanes, I recommend New Vanes, If reusing See Drawing Below for Orientation! The Vanes need to sit between the Slide & Bottom Pump Ring.

I highly recommend using 4L60E frictions in ALL '87-'93 700R4's, Along with late "E" molded pistons in the Input Drum.
This is an "E" kit with Borg Warner frictions (Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches & 2/4 Band), Raybestos steels, Teflon pump bushing, Case bushing & molded pistons Amazon.com: 4L60E 4L65E 4L60-E Master Overhaul Rebuild Kit w Borg Warner Frictions: Automotive
The Filter & Valve body gaskets WILL NOT work on 700R4's, But at $172 the filter & seal kit are free. And its good for a first timer to have extra seals

Is this a complete rebuild kit? (All the parts listed here come with it.) Or is this a list of parts I'll need to get separately from the kit? I looked over the ad and I don't see any bushings or a sun shell listed with the kit.

Is this a complete rebuild kit? (All the parts listed here come with it.) Or is this a list of parts I'll need to get separately from the kit? I looked over the ad and I don't see any bushings or a sun shell listed with the kit.

Measure the diameter of the TV Boost Valve, .422" is the Minimum Diameter I recommend on a V8 700R4, I prefer a .471" for mild builds, .490" for hotter builds. .500" Boost Valve are available as well. If reusing the stock valve, Check for wear between the Valve & Bushing.

The Low-Reverse Boost Valve is next, If you back heavy trailers or Manual shift a lot, Consider a larger Diameter Reverse Boost Valve. If reusing, Check for wear between Valve & Bushing.

Pressure Regulator Spring (PR Spring) lose tension over so many hundreds of thousands of cycles, REPLACE, TransGo "Green" PR spring is good, Sonnax 77917-08 is good as well.

Pressure Regulator Valve (PR Valve). Grind Land Flush with Spool as shown below, This helps with "PR Buzz" & increases lube flow. If the Valve has 2 Flats machined on the land, This is not 100% necessary, Though I do it anyway.

Enlarge the hole circled, This will match the drain back hole in the pump cover & help prevent Seal Blow-out as the pump bushing wears.

Stator Shaft Sealing Rings (233 in the diagram), If you have 1 piece Teflon Rings, Check for nicks or damage, If none is found reuse them, If you have Scarf Cut sealing rings, Replace with new Scarf Cut seals.

**Note/Tip, The Teflon 1 piece Stator Sealing Rings Grow when not installed the Trans, Use your old Revere Input Drum to keep them sized until pump install**

Lower the Input Drum/Reverse Input Drum assembly into the Case, You will need to work the 3-4 Clutches over the Planet Hub.....I use a Big pair of Channel locks on the Turbine Shaft splines to turn the drum.
Try not to put all the weight on the 3-4 clutch drive tabs as you work the Drum down in the Case.

The Drum will fall down a little when all 3-4 clutches are engaged onto the hub, The reverse input drum will sit on the SunShell. If no slack/space between the Input Drum & Reverse Input is present, The 3-4 Clutches ARE NOT fully engaged.....Keep working it!

Fit the Opening in the Band over the Case Lug, Tilt the Input Drum a little to make room.
Once the Band is down in the case, Use a 90 degree Awl to line up the Band anchor slot with the hole in the Case, Install Band Anchor Pin, Make sure it seats in the Band.

I'm going to start with 2nd gear Piston sizes, Identification, And what it means.

In the industry we use the last 3 Digits of the 2nd Piston part number for identification.

554 Piston. Has the Smallest Apply Area, Has the Weakest clamping force on the Band, Used on 4 & 6 cylinder applications. DO NOT USE behind a V8!!!

553 Piston. A little more Apply Area & Band holding power, The most common V8 & 4.3L V6 700R4 2nd piston, Great behind stock to mild engines & people that do not want a Firm 1-2 shift.

159 Piston. Again, More Apply Area. Used in 4L70E's ONLY as far as I know. Really nice 1-2 & 2-3 shifts. If you like cleaner shifts a little Firmer than stock....This is the one.

093 Piston. AKA "Vette Servo Piston", Has the greatest Apply Area, Almost Ridiculous really, The 1-2 will end up Very Firm after the Band seats in.
More of a "patch" for a New Band on an Worn Reverse Input Drum, Does produce the Cleanest 2-3 shift