{{CRLdetinfo|File:First_Imperial_Stormtrooper_Detachment_Logo.png|Stormtrooper, Empire Strikes Back|TK|{{#deturl:1115}}|Episode IV: A New Hope|Stormtroopers are the backbone of the Galactic Empire, and were the raiding party that secured Bespin. .}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_helmet.jpeg|Helmet|White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), or HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). The ESB helmet is distinguished by the following details:

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'''“It would be unfortunate if I had to leave a garrison here”. - Darth Vader (ESB)'''

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*Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.

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*Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.

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*Lenses are a flat green sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.

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*The gray "ear" bars have four bumps, with a black outline.

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*Frown is painted black and does not leave the teeth area. Eight or six total teeth on the frown are cut out.

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*Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 15 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. It is acceptable to have a different number of stripes on each side. These details may be decals, stencils or hand painted.

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*Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black

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*Aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black.|While no longer recommended, the FX helmet is still accepted provided that it is built and detailed per costume specifications. }}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_neckseal.jpeg|Neck Seal|Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.| }}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shoulders.jpeg|Shoulder Straps|Securely mounted in front and free floating in the back.|A TK may be approved with shoulder straps that are mounted both front and back.}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shoulder.jpeg|Shoulder Bells|One on each shoulder with little or no overlap of the bicep armor. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.| }}

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The Stormtroopers were the main force during the capture and interrogation of the Rebels, Han Solo, Princess Leia Organa, Chewbacca and their droid C3PO on the Cloud City of Bespin.

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_handplates.jpeg|Hand Plates|Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.| }}

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These highly trained elite soldiers cannot be bribed or swayed from their dedication to the Empire.

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_gloves.jpeg|Gloves|Black rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.|Any plain black glove may be approved, so long as it has no visible markings/textures and completely covers the wrist.}}

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The Stormtroopers are not only the first strike team units sent into critical combat situations, but are also assigned to keep a watchful eye over the Imperial officers who might betray the Emperor’s cause.

Garrisons of Stormtroopers are stationed on worlds throughout the Galaxy to keep order, and stop any Rebel uprisings.

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_back.jpeg|Back|Back plate contains a "O II" design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate.| }}

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Even though the Stormtroopers are an independent unit, having their own command structure, ranking system and support facilities, they still serve on Imperial vessels, and operate along side the Imperial army and navy.

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_undersuit.jpeg|Under Suit|Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos.| }}

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The Stormtroopers are shielded by hardened, plastoid,composite armor, fitted over a black environmental body glove, with a built-in life support system. The imposing white armor not only protects them from harsh environments, but also gives limited protection from blaster fire.

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_ab.jpeg|Abdomen Plate|The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter. The ab plate and kidney plate should match together at the sides with no gap, just a seam line.|Some older stormtrooper kits included larger black abdominal buttons. Accurately sized blue/gray buttons are now considered mandatory.}}

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Stormtroopers carry an array of equipment and weapons ,wielding blaster rifles and pistols with great skill.

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_kidney.jpeg|Kidney Plate|Kidney plate sides should line up with the ab plate leaving no gaps, just a seam line. The top of the kidney plate should abut the bottom of the back plate.|Some stormtrooper kits include the kidney and butt plates as one piece. These should be separated for approval. Please see the detachment forum for assistance with this modification.}}

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The Stormtroopers, having the combined training and battle tactics of both an Army soldier and a Marine, makes them highly adaptable and a very skilled force.

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_butt.jpeg|Butt Plate|The top of the butt plate should below the bottom of the belt, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.|Some stormtrooper kits include the kidney and butt plates as one piece. These should be separated for approval. Please see the detachment forum for assistance with this modification. }}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_belt.jpeg|Belt|The belt consists of three parts:

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Rebellion slang terms and nicknames for Stormtroopers:

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*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). There should be three square buttons (one centered in the middle and one on each end) and 6 main rectangular detail boxes.

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*Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3 to 3.5” wide. The color is be white to off-white.

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* The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.|Some stormtrooper kits include plastic parts for the belt proper. These should be replaced with canvas for approval. Please see the detachment forum for assistance with this modification. }}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_detonator.jpeg|Thermal Detonator|(a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder 2 to 2.5" in diameter with white end caps and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.|Silver foil tape should NOT be used on the thermal detonator.}}

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Whitehats

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_thighs.jpeg|Thighs|The thigh armour is closed in the back. The ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.| }}

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Plastic Soldiers

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shins.jpeg|Lower Legs|reaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the left greave.|Diamond knee plates or the absence of a knee plate is not canon approvable.}}

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Boys in White

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Plastic Boys

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_boots.jpeg|Boots|White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur-type boots or an equivalent style.|Elvis or Mariachi boots are not canon approvable.}}

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Stormies

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_holster.jpeg|Holster|Made of black leather or leather-like material, worn on the right and affixed via two loops over the belt.| }}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_helmet2.jpeg|Helmet Details|'''''501st Note: The following are recommendations. Failure to meet any of these points is not a reason to defer approval. '''''

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*Flat green lenses.

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{{CRLfisdlevels}}

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*Ears should have three screws used per side, one above and below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.

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*Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three.

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*Correct 'hovi mic' aerator tips.

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*Traps/tears and tube stripes must be decals, no hand-painting.

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*Traps/tears should be ANH grey or a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray..| }}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_armordetail.jpeg|Armor Details|'''''501st Note: The following are recommendations. Failure to meet any of these points is not a reason to defer approval. '''''

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{{CRLgmlapproval}}

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*Shoulder straps should not be attached with rivets, and should free float in the back rather than being permanently attached.

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*Armor side gaps should be closed. This should be done by adding a shim or shims of material that must be of similar material and color as the ab and back plate. Shims should fit flush and may have seams. Ideally they will be seamless if possible to the ab and/or back plate, resulting in a single seam between the ab/back rather than extra seams for where the shims are joined.

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*Thermal detonator should be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and should be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint.

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*Belt drop boxes should be closed in back.

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*Rivets on the left side of the ab/kidney plates: a total of six rivets with three on the ab and three on the kidney plate, equally spaced out along the depth of the armour and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.

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*Belt should be canvas or canvas covered instead of leather or vinyl.

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*The cod may be separated from the rest of the ab plate, but this cut line should not be visible from the front.

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*Hand plates may be sewn on to the gloves at five points equally spread out with 2 on the sides and 1 in the middle front.| }}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_blaster2.jpeg|E-11 Blaster Details|'''''501st Note: The following are recommendations. Failure to meet any of these points is not a reason to defer approval. '''''

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{{CRLrequirements}}

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A screen accurate BlasTech E-11 blaster should have the following:

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_helmet.jpeg|Helmet|

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*Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.

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*Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.

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*Lenses are a flat smoke or green sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.

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*The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.

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*Frown is painted black and does not leave the teeth area. Eight or six total teeth on the frown are cut out.

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*Tube stripes are medium blue, should be 13 per side, but can be 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

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*Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.

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*Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.

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*Tears, traps, and tube stripes should be decals but can be hand painted, or decals that replicate hand painted.

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*Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.

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*Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.

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*Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications. |

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*Ears shall have three screws used per side, one above and below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.

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*Traps/tears and tube stripes shall be decals (with the correct ESB details), no hand-painting or decals that replicate hand painted.

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*Traps/tears may be either ANH gray or a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray.

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*Ear bars shall have four bumps only, not three.

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*Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.

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*FX helmets are not allowed.|

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*MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.

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*ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.

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*Ear bars shall have only two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).

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*Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. }}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_neckseal.jpeg|Neck Seal|

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*Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.| | }}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shoulders.jpeg|Shoulder Straps|

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*These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.|

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*No visible rivets are allowed.|

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*These shall be glued in front.

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*These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).

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*Straps shall not have a white elastic band securing the shoulder straps to either the chest/back.}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shoulder.jpeg|Shoulder Bells|

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*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.|

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*Ideally no shoulder bell straps across the biceps.If there is a shoulder bell strap, it shall not be visible across the biceps. | }}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_biceps.jpeg|Biceps|

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*Biceps are fully closed.| |}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_forearms.jpeg|Forearms|

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*Forearms are fully closed.| |

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*No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

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}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_handplates.jpeg|Hand Plates|

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*These shall be clam shell, or snowtrooper-style hand plates and not the trapezoidal design seen in A New Hope. The hand plates shall be mounted securely over the back of the glove.| |

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*If rubber gloves are worn the hand plates shall be affixed via an elastic strap over the palm.

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*If silk or satin gloves are worn, the hand plates shall have the correct visible stitching pattern using black cotton, with a five point/star pattern, equally spread out with 2 on each side and 1 in the middle front, and needs to be double stitched at each point.

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}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_gloves.jpeg|Gloves|

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*Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. | |

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*Gloves shall be black rubber or rubber- like chemical gloves or black silk or satin.

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}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_chest.jpeg|Chest|

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*Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. | |

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*Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

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*Ideally the AM/FX style chest plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style chest plate, the bottom and sides shall be trimmed and a new return edge shall be added at the bottom to eliminate the over elongated appearance and to give a more accurate look. See the tutorial: http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tutorial-chestback

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}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_back.jpeg|Back|

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*Back plate contains a "O II" design.| |

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*Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

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*Ideally the AM/FX style back plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style back plate it shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. and shall be reshaped to emulate a screen used back plate by properly trimming and re-shaping (stretching) the left and right edges of the armor to contour to your body. Note: There is currently no tutorial available for this, but you can see an example of this Mod and visual comparison at whitearmor.net

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}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_undersuit.jpeg|Under Suit|

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*Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.| | }}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_ab.jpeg|Abdomen Plate|

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*The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16"(11mm) in diameter. |

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*Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2"(12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed.|

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*Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.

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*Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets, the heads should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note:For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

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*A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.

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*A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.

*Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

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}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_butt.jpeg|Butt Plate|

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*A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate. |

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.|

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*Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

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}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_belt.jpeg|Belt|

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*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).

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*The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white.

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*The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.|

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*There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.|

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*Drop boxes are closed in the back.

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*The corners of the of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_detonator.jpeg|Thermal Detonator|

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*(A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. This is an all gray cylinder without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length should be approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).

*The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.| |

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*The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.

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*The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shins.jpeg|Lower Legs|

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*Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.

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*The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net | |

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*Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_boots.jpeg|Boots|

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*White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.| |

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*There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).

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*Boots shall be lightly scuffed.}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_holster.jpeg|Holster|

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*Holster is worn on right side of belt. Holster will be made of completely black leather or leather-like material and be worn on the right and affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners).|

*Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered).

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*Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

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*Hasbro blasters should have a total of 7 t-racks (if you cover all the original Hasbro rows of holes) or 6 T-racks (if you cover the original Hasbro "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the original Hasbro lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes).

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*If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. |

*Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

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*Swoosh trim on right above the pistol grip.

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*If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

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*Two greeblies on the left rear area.

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Note: Popular commercially available toy Stormtrooper blasters are discouraged but allowed.

“It would be unfortunate if I had to leave a garrison here”. - Darth Vader (ESB)

The Stormtroopers were the main force during the capture and interrogation of the Rebels, Han Solo, Princess Leia Organa, Chewbacca and their droid C3PO on the Cloud City of Bespin.

These highly trained elite soldiers cannot be bribed or swayed from their dedication to the Empire.

The Stormtroopers are not only the first strike team units sent into critical combat situations, but are also assigned to keep a watchful eye over the Imperial officers who might betray the Emperor’s cause.

Garrisons of Stormtroopers are stationed on worlds throughout the Galaxy to keep order, and stop any Rebel uprisings.

Even though the Stormtroopers are an independent unit, having their own command structure, ranking system and support facilities, they still serve on Imperial vessels, and operate along side the Imperial army and navy.

The Stormtroopers are shielded by hardened, plastoid,composite armor, fitted over a black environmental body glove, with a built-in life support system. The imposing white armor not only protects them from harsh environments, but also gives limited protection from blaster fire.

Stormtroopers carry an array of equipment and weapons ,wielding blaster rifles and pistols with great skill.

The Stormtroopers, having the combined training and battle tactics of both an Army soldier and a Marine, makes them highly adaptable and a very skilled force.

Rebellion slang terms and nicknames for Stormtroopers:

Whitehats

Plastic Soldiers

Boys in White

Plastic Boys

Stormies

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, requirements for Level 2 "Expert Infantryman" are listed in blue. Requirements for Level 3 "Centurion" are listed in red.

Those armor pieces without blue and/ or red text are by default considered the highest level.

Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards.

Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.

The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

FX armor may not be used for Level 3 approval.

FX helmet is no longer permitted for new approvals.

This Visual Guide has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team and is certified for use as a minimum approval guideline for GMLs. GMLs are free to approve this costume type.

Any uncertainties or questionable aspects of the submitted costume should be brought to the appropriate DL/GML peer review section of the legion forum.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below.

HelmetFor 501st approval:

Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.

Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.

Lenses are a flat smoke or green sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.

The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.

Frown is painted black and does not leave the teeth area. Eight or six total teeth on the frown are cut out.

Tube stripes are medium blue, should be 13 per side, but can be 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.

Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.

Tears, traps, and tube stripes should be decals but can be hand painted, or decals that replicate hand painted.

Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.

Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.

Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Ears shall have three screws used per side, one above and below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.

Traps/tears and tube stripes shall be decals (with the correct ESB details), no hand-painting or decals that replicate hand painted.

Traps/tears may be either ANH gray or a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray.

Ear bars shall have four bumps only, not three.

Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.

FX helmets are not allowed.

For level three certification (if applicable):

MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.

ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.

Ear bars shall have only two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).

Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.

Neck SealFor 501st approval:

Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Shoulder StrapsFor 501st approval:

These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.

For level two certification (if applicable):

No visible rivets are allowed.

For level three certification (if applicable):

These shall be glued in front.

These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).

Straps shall not have a white elastic band securing the shoulder straps to either the chest/back.

Shoulder BellsFor 501st approval:

One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Ideally no shoulder bell straps across the biceps.If there is a shoulder bell strap, it shall not be visible across the biceps.

For level three certification (if applicable):

BicepsFor 501st approval:

Biceps are fully closed.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

ForearmsFor 501st approval:

Forearms are fully closed.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

Hand PlatesFor 501st approval:

These shall be clam shell, or snowtrooper-style hand plates and not the trapezoidal design seen in A New Hope. The hand plates shall be mounted securely over the back of the glove.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

If rubber gloves are worn the hand plates shall be affixed via an elastic strap over the palm.

If silk or satin gloves are worn, the hand plates shall have the correct visible stitching pattern using black cotton, with a five point/star pattern, equally spread out with 2 on each side and 1 in the middle front, and needs to be double stitched at each point.

GlovesFor 501st approval:

Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Gloves shall be black rubber or rubber- like chemical gloves or black silk or satin.

ChestFor 501st approval:

Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

Ideally the AM/FX style chest plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style chest plate, the bottom and sides shall be trimmed and a new return edge shall be added at the bottom to eliminate the over elongated appearance and to give a more accurate look. See the tutorial: http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tutorial-chestback

BackFor 501st approval:

Back plate contains a "O II" design.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

Ideally the AM/FX style back plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style back plate it shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. and shall be reshaped to emulate a screen used back plate by properly trimming and re-shaping (stretching) the left and right edges of the armor to contour to your body. Note: There is currently no tutorial available for this, but you can see an example of this Mod and visual comparison at whitearmor.net

Under SuitFor 501st approval:

Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Abdomen PlateFor 501st approval:

The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16"(11mm) in diameter.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2"(12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.

Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets, the heads should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note:For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.

A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.

Kidney PlateFor 501st approval:

A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.

For level two certification (if applicable):.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

Butt PlateFor 501st approval:

A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.

For level two certification (if applicable):

.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

BeltFor 501st approval:

Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).

The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white.

The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.

For level two certification (if applicable):

There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Drop boxes are closed in the back.

The corners of the of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.

Thermal DetonatorFor 501st approval:

(A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. This is an all gray cylinder without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length should be approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).

The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.

The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

Lower LegsFor 501st approval:

Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.

The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.

BootsFor 501st approval:

White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).

Boots shall be lightly scuffed.

HolsterFor 501st approval:

Holster is worn on right side of belt. Holster will be made of completely black leather or leather-like material and be worn on the right and affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners).

For level two certification (if applicable):

.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below.

BlasTech E-11 (canon)For 501st approval:

Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Folding stock (does not need to function).

No ammo counter shall be present.

D-ring mounted on the rear.

Correct style scope.

No power cylinders on the magazine housing.

Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

BlasTech E-11 (promo)For 501st approval:

Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Folding stock (does not need to function).

No ammo counter shall be present.

Correct style scope.

No power cylinders on the magazine housing.

Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

Two greeblies on the left rear area.

Three studs on the right rear area.

Add two scope block greeblies.

Remove front bayonet muzzle disk.

Remove magazine housing parts.

Remove D-Ring mount.

Swoosh trim on right side above the pistol grip.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

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