I work for a mitsu dealer so this is a really easy question to answer. If you plan on flashing the vehicle, everything at that point is null and void. But like you said you're just doing bolt on's so most of the time your warranty will remain untouched. Now if something catastrophic does go wrong then you may be on the hook for diag and tear down before the dealer can decide whether the aftermarket parts caused the failure or not. As for warranty coverage changing from dealer to dealer that is just plain wrong. If a dealer is refusing warranty work then i would suggest finding a new dealer. Our dealer is relatively performance friendly to a point, but there are some things even we don't touch. If you have any questions regarding what your warranty will and will not cover feel free to reach out!

First - feel free to shoot me a message any time you have specific questions.

What is your knowledge level for photography? Straight up beginner never used a camera before? Or do you know what shutter speed, aperture, and ISO are and how they interact? Would you be comfortable shooting in full manual mode or are you strictly limited to full automatic?

Full on beginner the only camera I ever used was on my iPhone. And I really don't know what I'd feel comfortable with I guess I'd just have to try both and see what I prefer but I was messing around in my apartment with it and I was mostly using manual focus. As for shutter speed and aperture and ISO I honestly have 0 idea what they mean or how they interact so any guidance would be appreciated

No, it looks absolutely nothing like that. You're jumping to a completely moronic conclusion based on a part that has to be removed for access.

The 4B11T is interference and there is no apparent valve damage. Cylinder 2 shows clear evidence of excessive oil and excessive lean mix. No other cylinder shows similar damage. Additionally, the metal failure occurred on the complete OPPOSITE side of the interference point AND the ring appears to be largely intact. Further, the 4B11T has exceptionally strong rods. The piston failure is also not only off-axis but originates in the face but very clearly traces the outer raised portion.

All of the evidence points to a failure of the piston in the face most likely due to forging defect, ultimately concluding in a catastrophic seizing of the engine due to separation which resulted in the failure of the connecting rod.

Edit: yes I said cylinder 2, yes it's cylinder 3. I didn't know the orientation. Point is it's one cylinder not four. ;P

Upon further inspection with getting the engine out you're completely right although the valves for cylinder 3 got fucked harder than Sasha grey did in her final movie also the block is now mildly ventilated