Thursday, March 01, 2012

Of Italy's noble red varietals, Aglianico is one of the oldest; a Sommelier I talked to a number of years ago at Vinitaly told me it has been cultivated for so long its origins are hazy, but historians think it may have been introduced by the Greeks who colonized the south before the rise of the Roman empire. Which means that the vines have had close to three thousand years to become adapted to their terroir; they have done so superbly.

Aglianico yields a number of wines throughout the South, the most highly regarded of which is Taurasi, an extraordinarily ageworthy red produced in Irpinia, the rugged heartland of Campania far from the sea, where temperatures climb during the day in the summer, but drop at night, and snow falls in yards during the winter months.

This is quite a large area, and as one might expect it is quite varied; broadly speaking there are areas with continental soils and substrates, volcanic soils and substrates, and marine soils and substrates, and one of the high points of the vintage presentation this year was a detailed look at the zonation study recently carried out by the Commissione Tecnica Territoriale, which divided the appellation into four zones.

The Versante Nord or Northern Flank (Venticano, Pietradefusi and Torre Le Nocelle), where elevations are on average about 300-350 meters, with moderate slopes, and the grapes tend to ripen in mid October

The Valle Centrale, or Central Valley (Mirabella Eclano, Bonito, Fontanarosa, Luogosano and S. Angelo all'Esca), where altitudes range from 400 to 450 meters, with mild slopes and a mix of clays and volcanic soils; the grapes ripen in late October-early November.

The Versante Ovest, or Western Flank (Lapio, Montefalcione, Montemiletto and San Mango sul Calore), with elevations around 400 meters, clayey soils, and steep slopes; the grapes ripen in late October - Early November.

The Versante Sud-Est, or South-East Flank, also known as the High Valley, with elevations of 500-650 meters, with considerable rainfall, large temperature excursions, and clayeye calcareous soils; ripening is slower, extending past mid-November.

Composition and winemaking:

Taurasi must be at least 85% Aglianico, and can also contain up to 15% other non-aromatic red grapes.

Yields must not exceed 100 quintals (10 tons) per hectare, while the minimum alcohol levels for the wines are 11.5% for the vintage wine and 12% for Taurasi Riserva.

Taurasi must age for at least three years, including a minimum of a year in wood, prior to release. Taurasi Riserva must age for at least four years, including a minimum of 18 months in wood, prior to release. Aging is considered to begin December 1, by which time fermentation is generally complete.

Should it prove necessary, the grape must can be strengthened through the addition of locally produced -- from the same varietals -- concentrated grape must -- (lest you wonder, this is a standard provision that quality producers who farm to complete ripeness do not need, unless the vintage is truly dreadful -- it's the equivalent of Chaptalization, the addition of sugar to weak grape musts to increase alcohol content practiced in France).

If necessary, up to 15% of a different vintage of the same wine can be added (again, this is a provision aimed at dreadful vintages)

Vinification, aging and bottling must be carried out within the appellation.

This year's Taurasi presentation was held in Montemiletto, a very pretty hilltop town dominated by an imposing fortress, the Castello della Leonessa, whose restoration was completed just in time to host the presentation.

We began with a look back, to the 2002 vintage, and in doing this the Taurasi producers displayed remarkable courage, because the vintage wasn't much if any better for them than it was for most other Italian appellations. It was therefore a look through a number of creaking wines, and as a fellow tasted said, they all had problems -- some on the nose, some on the palate, and some in the finish, and so on. But it was interesting, and even in adversity a number of the wines displayed flashes of something that made me think, hey -- I'd like to taste a better vintage.

Deep cherry ruby with almandine in the rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated berry fruit supported by some leaf tobacco spice, and a fair degree of freshness at the outset; with time powerful bouillon cube emerges. On the palate it's ample, and rather balsamic, with sour balsam laced berry fruit supported by sour balsamic acidity and tannins that are quite dusty, flowing into a warm savory balsamic finish with a bitter underpinning and some oak This said, it is well thewed and powerful, rather like a strong 40-year old, if this makes sense.

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim, paling to brownish in the nail. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambles and leaf tobacco supporting some minerality and spice, and also some humus. Mature. On the palate it's ample, with fairly warm bitter strongly mineral laced prune fruit with India ink bitterness and some balsamic accents supported by smooth dusty tannins that flow into a rather brooding fairly bitter finish. It's powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol, and a dusky wine, with revolving more around bitterness than acidity, and something you will like if you like this brambly bitter style.

Deep black almandine with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is brambly, with wet leaves and wet earth supported by some tobacco and vegetal accents, with spice as well and hints of sea salt and varnish, and as it opens bouillon. Clearly mature, and from a cooler vintage tat didn't ripen completely, retaining vegetal characteristics. On the palate it's ample and bitter with considerable savory minerality and tannins that bitter and lay a splintery dusty trail across the tongue, fading into savory tannic bouillon. It's interesting, but more a wine for wine lovers who are willing to talk to a wine that didn't have an easy time of it, but has something to say.

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to brownish orange on the nail. The bouquet is fairly bright, with brambly mentholated fruit supported by minerality and some spice, and by some sour cherry/forest berry fruit and acidity too. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich dusky cherry fruit supported by brambly sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are bitter, with a slight burr, and flow into a cocoa-laced bitter finish with berry fruit and alcohol underpinning. It is pleasant, and a nice expression of the vintage, with more fruit and brighter acidity than some; it will work well with grilled meats or succulent roasts and does have a story to tell. A fellow taster wonders if it is all Aglianico, and it is distinct enough from the others -- in the fruit cast, which has forest berry fruit, and in the tannins, which have a smoother less dusty feel -- that this is a legitimate question. Having said this, it shows nicely.

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim paling to orange. The bouquet is spicy with considerable minerality and bramble, and a certain airiness that brings a far-overripe pear to mind somehow, supported by some sea salt and hardwood ash. On the palate it's mineral, with balsamic accents and warmth, over sour berry fruit, and supported by warm balsamic acidity and tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a warm savory balsamic finish. It's a cool weather wine, and in this context is pleasant, but you have to be a wine lover of a certain kind to appreciate it. It's lither, and less concentrated than the others, and this isn't a bad thing, as it feels like it's not trying as hard.

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with menthol and minerality mingled with spice, and some wet bark, also slight leaf tobacco. And as it opens fairly intense brambles with some underlying forest berry fruit. On the palate it's quite mineral, with considerable bitterness too, and leafy accents more than fruit, supported by bitter minerality more than acidity, while the tannins are brooding and dusty (in a smoother key than present in most of the wines), and flow into a decidedly bitter finish with tobaccoey accents and some brambly notes as well. A dusky, brooding wine that is more savor and minerality than fruit, though there is some alcoholic sweetness too, and is something you will like only if you like this style.

Deep black almandine with black red and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up bramble and minerality with some savory accents, slight acidity that would be nose tingling were it stronger, and hardwood ash. On the palate it's ample and savory with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by considerable bitterness, leafy tobacco accents, some tree bark, and brooding bitter tannins that lay a dusty trail over the tongue, and flow into a brooding tannic finish. A glowering wine that brings to mind a big man with beetle brows.

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense with balsam laced spice supported by hints of berry fruit and some mineral/red berry acidity, and also some cedar and leaf tobacco. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by warm sour cherry acidity and tannins that are ample and dusty, with bitter underpinning, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Brooding, which is a characteristic of the vintage, but brighter than some, and a little more forthcoming.

Impenetrable pyrope; it's the darkest of the wines and has the rim least shifted towards almandine. The bouquet is fairly intense, with menthol supported by wood -- cedar and cedar sawdust -- and spice with some berry fruit as well. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with minerality more than fruit, and dusky bitterness that gradually resolves into hulking bitter cedar, which continues on and on. Heavily unbalanced towards oak, and there isn't much fruit nor substance holding it up.

The presentation of the 2008 vintage began the next morning. The wineries are presented in the order the 2008 Taurasi Base was poured. I am not yet that familiar with Taurasi, but was quite favorably impressed by the 2008 vintage wines that were poured.

Lively cherry ruby with back reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, sour berry fruit with some vegetal accents, light, and fairly zesty, with lively raspberry acidity and some graphite shavings too. On the palate it's light, with lively fairly bitter bright sour berry fruit laced with graphite shaving bitterness, savory notes, some minerality, and tannins that are warm and peppery, flowing into a fairly long warm peppery finish. Quick to drink and will work quite well with foods, including fried meats and vegetables. Zesty .2 stars

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with berry fruit laced with some bramble and slight cedar, as well sea salt and spice. On the palate it's full, with bright raspberry cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and tannins that are ample and have a powerful burr, strong enough to make them seem slightly coarse at present, but this is youth, and flow into a clean bitter slightly tongue curling tannic finish. Very young and needs time; it's a bigger but not as graceful wine that revolves more around power than finesse.2 stars

Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and slightly reduced at the outset, with menthol and spice, slight berry fruit and slight graphite shavings; the red berry fruit emerges as it opens as does mentholated cedar. On the palate it's ample and fairly direct, with lively sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and have a slightly greenish burr, flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with a cedary tannic underpinning. It needs another year at least, perhaps two, and is middle of the road in key, and more about power than finesse at present.2 stars

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour cherry fruit and some graphite shavings, slight iodine, hints bramble. Sunny and fresh. On the palate it's deft, slightly light, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by graphite shaving minerality and tannins that are fairly smooth but have a dusky bitter burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. A touch more international in style, but pleasant, if you like the style. I found it just slightly lacking in concentration.2 stars

Donnachiara Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2007

Impenetrable black cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated berry fruit laced with floral accents and some chalk dust, also mineral notes. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and soft tannins that have slight savory notes, and flow into a fairly soft finish. I'd have liked greater depth and verve.1 star

Deep almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with slight animal accents, some barnyard tang, some cedar, and some fruit, though not much. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have quite a bit of cedar to them and flow into a bitter cedar laced finish. Heavily oaked and needs another couple of years to absorb it. Quite bitter, too. Disjointed, needs time.1 star

Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with a great deal of cedar and some spice, and some underlying berry fruit as well. Oak in a glass. On the palate it's powerful, with considerable cedar that runs roughshod over the fruit, flowing into a splintery finish. Too much oak for me, though I would be curious to see how it deals with said oak in time, because there is fairly intense fruit as well.

I Favati Terzo Tratto Taurasi DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and bright cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with a great lot of cedar mingled with some ripe fruit and some greenish accents, with some cocoa as well. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by some cocoa-laced sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm slightly balsamic burr and flow into a fairly bright rather vegetal finish. It's brighter on the palate than the nose, and brings to mind the ugly duckling, which with time may become a swan. I'd give it 3-5 years.2 stars

Deep pigeon blood ruby, almost impenetrable. The bouquet is muted, revealing some cedar, slight hardwood ash, and some oak. Not much fruit. On the palate it's a bit unusual, and rather sweet, with cherry raspberry fruit supported by some acidity, and by tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish. Something may have happened in the cellars.

Deep black cherry with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright underbrush mingled with bramble and vegetal accents, and lively cherry fruit that has a mineral underpinning. On the palate it's bright, with lively mineral laced berry fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery burr and some graphite shaving bitterness, and by acidity that's decidedly mineral. Pleasant though very young, and will become austere with time.2 stars

Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim with slight orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with graphite shavings and iodine mingled with some berry fruit and spice; it's very young. On the palate it's moderately intense, with fairly bitter berry fruit supported by tannins that have a powerfully bitter cedary burr, and flows into a bitter finish laced with cold coffee. Wood in a glass, and though there is enough fruit to emerge some, the wood covers most all now. It needs at least a couple of years, and probably more. There is potential that a score now will not reflect.

Deep back cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some cedar and some dusky notes; it's harmonious and everything in place. On the palate it's fairly rich, with dusky cherry fruit mingled with dried leaves and some underbrush, and supported by tannins that are ample and have a powerful cedar component, flow into a clean rather bitter graphite shaving cedar finish. Harmonious in an austere mineral key, and will age nicely in this way. If you like the style you will enjoy it; if you prefer brighter fruit it won't work as well. Quite tannic and rather savory too.2 stars

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by raspberry acidity, hints sweetness, and some vegetal accents, also some graphite shavings and bramble. On the palate it's ample and a bit softer than I expected, with bright sour cherry fruit that disconnects from cedary tannins that have a bitter splintery burr; they're like two cars in parallel lanes, seeing each other but disconnected. It needs a year at least to come together, and if the pieces fall into place properly it will be pleasant. At present it's a work in progress

Vigna Villae Pezze de'Preti Irpinia Campi Taurasini 2007

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and fairly sweet, with berry fruit that has some greenish jammy accents and slight hints of sandalwood. On the palate it's ample and direct, with nice minerality supporting dusky berry fruit and fairly smooth tannins that flow into a dusky bitter mineral finish. Direct and up front, and will do a nice job of supporting what it's served with, a classic food wine in a simple key.2 stars

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense with berry fruit supported by airy underbrush and slight cedar, and by mentholated spice as well. Fresh and young. On the palate it's pleasant, with lively red cherry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean bright raspberry laced finish. Pleasant, in a fresh key, and will age nicely too.2 stars

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with a fair amount of cedar and some underlying berry fruit, which is overshadowed by oak. On the palate it's unusual, with sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a surprisingly languid feel to them, and flow into a quick slightly vegetal cherry finish. It's not what I expected from the nose.1 star

Tenuta Ponte Carazita Irpinia Campi Taurasini 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and dusky cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by some hardwood ash and slight spice. On the palate it's direct, with moderate fruit supported by balsamic acidity and bitterness, and by warm balsamic tannins and acidity that carry the show. You'll have to like the style to enjoy it; the tannins take center stage.1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bright cherry fruit supported by slight candied accents and some vegetal notes, slight acidity too. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some raspberry, also some underbrush, and by tannins that gave a dusky bitter graphite shaving underpinning and flow into a clean splintery tannic finish. Quite young, but promises well in a fairly bright key. Could be a little more concentrated.2 stars

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slight animal tang and some balsamic notes mingled with warmth and a fair amount of balsamic acidity, wet stable straw, and slight sour berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by warm slightly balsamic acidity hat has leafy accents, and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, flowing into a warm savory finish. Pleasant in a traditional key and worth seeking out if you like this style; there is also smoky minerality that adds interest.88-90

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh with lively berry fruit supported by red blossoms and the heather of a field in summer, pleasant floral and vegetal notes, and there is also underlying acidity and spice with slight underbrush. On the palate it's full and rather languid, with rich cherry plum fruit that also has some ripe blackberry, supported more by minerality than acidity, and by tannins that are ample and bright, and flow into a clean bright cherry plum finish. Languid, like a person stretching, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.2 stars

Ferrara Benito Vigna Quattro Confini Irpinia Campi Taurasini 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is vegetal and animal, with greenish accents mixed with barnyard tang and some balsamic notes, wet stable straw in particular. On the palate it's ample and fresh, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by dusky bitter minerality and spice, while the tannins are warm and have a slight burr, and flow into a rather bitter finish. Not as bright as some, will work well with foods, supporting but not getting in the way.1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with chalk dust and ripe cherry plum fruit supported by some cardamom spice and hints of licorice root as well; there's something inky and sulky about it. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderate fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are fairly dry and have a splintery burr to them, flowing into a dusky vegetal finish. I'd have liked more verve and brightness.1 star

Di Prisco Irpinia Campi Taurasini 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable spice and cumin seed mingled with India ink and some laundry soap; it's a bit unexpected. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by minerality and by tannins that are graphite laced, with bitter undertones, and flow into a fairly long graphite laced finish with some floral accents from youth.1 star

Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with cherry plum fruit supported by oak; there's a great deal of extraction and one could almost skate on it. On the palate it's ample, and brighter than I expected, with sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by brisk sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr, slight hints of balsam too, and flow into a fairly long savory sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning that becomes dry as it fades. The nose is likely in a phase, and needs time, because the palate is considerably more interesting, and has the verve necessary to age well too. Something to wait for.2 stars

Amarano Principe Lagonessa Taurasi DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some spice, also some menthol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly lively sour cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a lively rather balsamic cedar laced burr, and flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish with underlying graphite bitterness. It's pleasant, though a bit scrappy, and if you like the style it will work well with succulent red meats.2 stars

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sweet cherry plum fruit supported by considerable milky graphite shaving bitterness and some spice, also some cedar. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by dusky minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth. I'd have liked more verve; it's settled and lacking in brightness.1 star

Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with slightly orange ruby rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with quite a bit of alcohol, some candied fruit, and some spice, with hints of petroleum/plastic too. Not enticing. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by tannins that are smooth and have a burr to them; I found it lacking in verve and rather settled somehow.1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is unusual, with berry fruit supported by wet leaves and some spice, and also some vulcanized rubber, with other chemical accents as well. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have a splintery burr and flow into a fairly dry cedar laced finish. It's a bit disjointed and needs time to come together though I wonder if it will ever be truly harmonious.1 star

Tecce Satyricon Irpinia Campi Taurasini 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents, some bitter almond, and graphite shavings with some berry fruit and cumin too. On the palate it's moderately intense and fairly bitter, with graphite laced cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that have a bitter graphite laced splintery burr, and flow into a long splintery finish. More of a food wine than something to sip far from the table.1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some cedar, and slight bramble, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that work from below the surface, providing just enough support to keep it all from settling. I'd have liked more verve, and while it would have been all right as an Aglianico I would expect more form a Taurasi. In its defense it is very young, and could do interesting things with time.1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with airy cedar and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's riper than I expected from the nose, with cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have a powerful bitter cedar overlay, and by acidity that is sour and rather balsamic. It's disjointed and heavily extracted, and also heavily influenced by oak.1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and graphite shavings mingled with spice and some candied plum fruit; it gives an impression of oaky ripeness. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity that has a mineral cast, and by blocky fairly smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a moderately long dusky cedar finish. It's fairly international in style, with ripening taken a bit further than in some of the other wines, and there's something brooding about it.1 star

Il Cancelliere Nero Né Taurasi Riserva 2006

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory cherry plum fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by alcohol and sour plum acidity, and by tannins that have a greenish splintery burr and flow into a dry tannic finish. It needs time, a year or two, and may never completely loose the anger it carries now. This said, it does display a pleasing verve and will work well with foods, succulent roasts and similar.2 stars

Almandine ruby with black reflections and slightly orange almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with India ink and graphite shavings mingled with bitterness and minerality, not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by some raspberry acidity, and by blocky tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. I'd have liked more verve and richness to the fruit, which isn't as bright nor as rich as it might have been.1 star

Contrada Michele Hirpus Taurasi DOCG 2005

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is dusky, with leafy underbrush mingled with berry fruit and some spice; it gives an impression of coolness with some brambly notes as well. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly intense sour cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that have a slight cedary burr and flow into a fairly long brambly finish.. Pleasant, though clearly from a more difficult vintage, and it has quite a bit to say. It grew upon me.2 stars

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with toasted barley (what Italians who don't drink coffee use as a coffee substitute), savory notes, and hints of bouillon. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly bright in a dusky key, with sour berry fruit supported by coffee-laced bitterness and some acidity, while the tannins are warm and have a savory burr, flowing into a fairly long savory sour berry fruit finish. It's middle of the road and needs time, and I think it may clean up nicely.2 stars

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with graphite shavings and minerality laced with iodine and savory notes, slight berry fruit and hints of heather. As it opens, cedar too. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by rather brooding dusky tannins that have a fair amount of cocoa to them, and flow into a clean rather tannic bitter finish. I found the cocoa distracting.1 star

Montesole Vigna Vinieri Taurasi DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim that has hints of orange to it. The bouquet is quite fresh, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sea salt and slight bouillon, also some hardwood ash. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are sweet and have bitter coffee-cocoa overtones, and flow into a coffee-cocoa laced finish. It's fairly heavily oaked, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, but I found the oak overbearing.1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with a mixture of bouillon and cow flop with quite a bit of salt as well, and tired balsamic accents. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense bitter berry fruit supported by cedar laced balsamic notes that fade into bitterness with time. The nose didn't convince me.1 star

Contrade di Taurasi Coste Taurasi DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with vegetal accents and spice mingled with sour berry fruit and some balsamic notes, with slight animal tang -- lathered horse -- and underlying see breeze. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by minerality and mineral acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a clean fairly bright sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant, though still very young, and will age nicely. Becoming ethereal with time.2 stars

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with a fair amount of alcohol supported by candied fruit accents and some spice, also hints marzipan, and some tangerine acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a massive cedary burr and flow into a dry tannic finish. I'd have liked more brightness and richness, because the tannins are quite dry, and though they will fold in with time the dryness will likely remain. It's a bit disjointed.1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with quite a bit of oak mingled with bramble and some greenish vegetal notes and vegetal acidity. On the palate it's ample and dusky, with some cedar and spice. I'd have liked more verve and elegance from the fruit. Bitter and brooding, oak overshadows.1 star

Boccella Rasott Irpinia Campi Taurasini 2008

Deep cherry ruby. Fairly intense vegetal nose with mentholated accents and some quinine as well, with cumin and some underlying berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by bitter acidity and tannins that have splintery greenish accents, flow into a fairly long bitter finish. Up front, a quaffing wine.1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and chemical notes mingled with some savory notes and spice; at present the fruit doesn't emerge much. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense savory berry fruit supported by tannins that have a distinctly cedary burr. It's in mid stride, and needs time

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and smoky, with bitterness and some cocoa mingled with sea salt and vegetal notes, and supported by nose tingling acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, and decidedly mineral with bitter berry fruit supported by more bitterness and cedar laced tannins. A brooding wine that looks at the world from under beetle brows now, though it may do interesting thins with time. It's very young and has a ways to improve.1 star

Terredora Campore Taurasi DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with quite a bit of spice and vegetal notes but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by considerable bitterness and spicy tannins that have cocoa and coffee laced with cedar. Too much oak for me, and it's a pity because there is nice fruit under it.1 star

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by some bouillon and hardwood ash, also some sea salt,. On the palate it's bright, with fairly mineral fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and fairly intense minerality, while the tannins are peppery with a fairly smooth burr, and flow into a cedar-laced finish. Quite a lot of oak, and though there is fruit to hold it up the oak is significant. I rather enjoyed it, though less oak would have been nice.2 stars

Di Meo Campania Aglianico 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections, slightly cloudy. The bouquet is chocolaty, with red berry fruit mingled with cocoa and some greenish spice, almost brings hot cocoa and marshmallows to mind. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice, and flows into a tannic splintery mineral finish with some bitter underpinning.1 star

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is cedar laced, with greenish vegetal accents and cocoa mingled with a fair amount of alcohol; the combination brings Bailey's Bristol Cream to mind. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by savory notes and quite a bit of alcohol, while the tannins have a dusky cedar laced burr and flow into a savory coffee laced finish. It tries very hard, but I am not sure if it succeeds.1 star

I Capitani Guaglione Irpinia Aglianico 2009

Deep black cherry with black cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit disjointed, with berry fruit supported by vanilla laced aromas that almost bring crema pasticcera to mind, and also a certain sweetness. On the palate it's medium bodied with fairly bright plum cherry fruit supported by moderately intense brambly acidity, and by tannins that have pronounced vanilla accents and flow into a finish that has butterscotch overtones, which are unusual in a red wine, but present here. It's a food wine that won't work too well far from the table.1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by greenish notes and spice, also some scalded milk. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly languid plum cherry fruit supported by savory notes more than acidity, and by tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a cedar laced finish. I found it lacking in richness and fullness of fruit.1 star

Nativ Irpinia Aglianico 2009

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish cherry plum fruit supported by vegetal accents and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol, also some heather and menthol. On the palate it's direct and up front, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate bitter acidity, and by tannins that are warm and rather vegetal, flowing into a clean greenish vegetal berry fruit finish. It's very direct, a classic quaffing wine of the sort one sets out and drinks.1 star

Pale cherry ruby with black reflections white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, candied fruit and some greenish heather form a cut field, bramble, nutmeg spice, vegetal notes, some graphite shavings. On the palate it's light and zesty with considerable ripe fruit supported by greenish vegetal berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a peppery greenish burr, there's also faint petillance that increases the zest. A wine to drink now with foods. Will go quickly, simple and direct.1 star

Di Marzo Irpinia Aglianico 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim The bouquet is dusky, with red berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and some spice, and also greenish accents, some leaf tobacco. On the palate it's direct and up front, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by dusky slightly bitter acidity, and by tannins that are light and have some graphite shaving bitterness, flowing into a clean rather tannic bitter finish. A pleasant food wine, will go quickly.2 stars

Deep cherry ruby, looks slightly cloudy. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and sandalwood mingled with berry fruit and spice, also some cumin, and floral accents. On the palate it's spicy, with cumin and cinnamon mixed into the fruit; it almost brings to mind a spiced wine, while the tannins are splintery and quite dry, flowing into a greenish splintery finish. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.1 star

Cantina Giardino Clown Oenologue Campania Aglianico 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and spicy, with balsamic spicy accents that almost bring a chinato-style wine to mind (though dry). A bit unusual. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with quinine-laced bitter fruit that flows into a clean sour finish. Unusual and very particular, takes no quarter.1 star

After the tasting we split into groups and went to visit wineries.

My group met with the folks from Cancellieri, Antico Castello, Salvatore Molettieri, and Di Prisco.

Cancellieri, which is a new winery, aims for an expression of their land, with as little human intervention as possible. Their fermentations are natural, and they let the wines undergo malolactic fermentation at its own pace. No filtration, and no stablization.

Antico Castello, so called because the owner was born in the castle, which subsequently collapsed in the 1980 earthquake. They have 8 hectares of vineyards, 5 planted to Aglianico and 3 to Fiano and Greco. The winery was established in 2001 and its first Taurasi vintage was 2006; the first white wines made from their vineyards will be 2012

They do a rigorous green harvest, greatly reducing the grape load, and end up with 45-50 quintals per hectare. The harvest is in early October, about the 10th, with fermentation in steel, and then a mix of botti, tonneaux and barriques.

In addition to growing grapes, they grow figs, about 50 quintals per year, which are snapped up by a major jam producer.

Salvatore Molettieri, one of the older wineries in the region. His Taurasi ages in a mix of large and small wood; his small wood is French, while his holder botti are Slavonian, and his newer ones are a mix of French, which is more pourous, and Slavonian, which is tighter. He has 4 hectares of recently planted vines, and another three from a much older vineyard that is less productive.

We had dinner at Molettieri's and before sitting down to eat tasted several wines.

Barrel sampleThis is a wine that decided it needed more time -- 2007 was hot and the grapes suffered; as a result the malolactic fermentation was quite slow, and last year they presented it as a barrel sample because they didn't feel it was ready. This year they presented the 2008 in bottle, while this wine continues to rest, and they are content to let it stay where it is until it decides it's ready for the bottle. Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by dusky leaf tobacco and graphite shavings, with a fair amount of alcohol as well, and fairly intense brambles too. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and tannins that are warm, quite peppery, and fairly balsamic, and flow into a warm peppery balsamic finish with some savory accents. It's a tannic work in progress, and promises well.

This was their first vintage. Deep black almandine with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly accents and some leaf tobacco mingled with leather, sea salt, spice, and supporting sour berry fruit and also a fair amount of underbrush; as it opens some scalded milk emerges, and red berry fruit too. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by dusky mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins, while there is also some graphite shaving bitterness, and it all flows into a clean rather bitter mineral finish with some savory accents. Quite pleasant in a fresh bright key, and is impressive as a first vintage; it also has good aging potential.88-90

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with leather and underbrush mingled with savory notes and spice, and a fair amount of wet earth and hardwood ash, and underlying minerality. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry-prune fruit supported by tannins that have a warm brambly underpinning that becomes salty as the fruit fades, while the warmth continues, flowing into a fairly bitter finish that echoes the nose. It's guided more by minerality than acidity, and it is nicely balanced. I would expect it to be quite long-lived.2 stars

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with nice spice, a fair amount of cedar, and some sanfalwood supported by underbrush and moderate berry fruit; it revolves primarily around minerality. On the palate it's full, with richer than expected bright sour berry fruit supported by clean bright sour cherry acidity that has a bitter underpinning, and by tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a clean fresh sour cherry finish. Impressive, and a distinct step up from the 2006 Cinque Querce, a wine of great deftness and finesse that will work very well with hearty roasts or stews. The 2006 is not as far along, and will likely develop more slowly than the 2005 overall.90-91

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with balsam-laced red berry fruit and spice, hints of sage, graphite shavings, savory accents, sea breeze, some red berry fruit, brambles, and hints of leather. Quite pleasant, and though not fully mature, is moving in that direction. On the palate it's bright and rich, with powerful mineral laced cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that are balsamic and peppery with fairly intense leaf tobacco accents, and flows into a fairly long mineral finish with a splintery tannic underpinning that gradually fades into plum and spice. Very young, especially on the palate. This was the first year they had used barriques, a mixture of new and year-old, and they are apparent in the peppery splinter of the tannins; since then they have adjusted the oak balance to obtain smoother more supple tannins. An interesting, pleasant wine that will work very well with grilled meats and succulent stews or roasts.2 stars

This wasn't, Salvatore says, a great year. Perhaps his memory is failing; it's brownish almandine with almandine rim, and has a rich nose with Moroccan leather, the aroma of a cypress chest of the kind you'll find in a sacristy out in the country, some menthol, hints of camphor, dusty cedar sweetness, leaf tobacco and some leather. On the palate it's rich and full, with balsam-laced berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and sweet dusty balsamic tannins that flow into a sweet balsamic finish. It is fully mature, and is beginning to show its age, but is frankly impressive, and all the more so considering Salvatore's assessment of the vintage. It is the next-to-last vintage from he made before replanting his old vineyards, and offers a beautiful testament to Taurasi's potential. No point in scoring a bottle that is one of the few left, but it has great depth and a beautiful story to tell.

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IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.