3 way* - probably the most important upgrade to your pneumatics is the 3 way. this helps determine how short your pull will be and will also change the feel of the trigger pull. great choices would be the
- Shocktech Bomb
- WGP Copy This
- Belsales Hollowpointanodizing* - this is the last thing you should do to your cocker and is for cosmetic purposes only. great choices for anodizing are
- www.jackalmachine.com
- www.pkselective.com.asa - there are two kinds of air system adapters: straight and 15* angle. some find the angle more comfortable, some find the straight more comfortable. this shouldn't be upgraded until you're done with the important parts unless you can't stand the straight asa's. if so, kapp and wgp make angled asa's. dye and kapp make some good looking straight asa's.asa screw - only necessary if you're building a cocker from scratch. compulsive paintball carries them.back block - this part is upgraded for looks and to take weight off. don't worry about replacing this right away. when you decide to do so, look for a q-block or a jackal block. (if there's a lighter block out there, let me know)ball detent - there are metal ball detents, delrin ball detents, rebuildable ball detents, and a "fang" detent. metal detents (such as the stock detent) sometimes wear down the bolt. there won't be a noticable loss in performance. delrin detents don't scratch up the bolt as much. rebuildable detents can be taken apart and put back together for maintenance purposes. the eclipse fang detent is like a spyder detent, it uses a nub to keep from double feeding. this is not necessary to upgrade, but if you do, get one with a light spring behind the ball to keep the bolt from dragging against it.barrel - stock cocker barrels aren't very good. this is the case with all stock barrels. this should be replaced with a barrel of high quality, such as
- Dye Boomstick
- Smart Parts All American
- Custom Products 2 piece
see the barrel forum for more details.beavertail - purely for looks. don't bother unless you hate the stock one or you broke it. don't go without one, most fields require them. check these out:
- Kapp beavertail
- Dye Beavertailbody - getting a new body is cosmetic. get the one you like, but make sure the company that makes it is reliable.
- www.jackalmachine.com
- www.aimpaintball.com
are such quality companies.bolt - the stock bolt is very high flowing and isn't necessary to replace right away. bolts have no effect on accuracy or range like some people think. a good aftermarket bolt should be high flowing and lightweight. these are all great choices:
- Compulsive Edge
- Shocktech Supa fly
- AKA Lightning Bolt
- WGP Worr Boltcocking rod - this is primarily a cosmetic upgrade. your stock cocking rod will work fine. get one you think looks good when there's very little left to do to your cocker.coupler* - upgrading this is pointless. if you must, omega makes a titanium coupler. dye's pmp 3 way stem as a coupler built into it.cradle/drop forward - a cradle that feels right to you can make a day of paintball much easier. an on/off is very handy. the system x cradle suits me very well, but try out different sizes of different brands to see which one you like best. the kapp drop zone is expensive but easily adjustable to fit you perfectly.
- Kapp Dropzone
- Custom Products Flame Drop
- Check-it Unimountfront block* - upgrade a front block for looks and less weight, but don't do it right away. the evil block looks great and is less than half the weight of a stock front block. you can also consider a
- Kapp Front Block
- Dye Front Blockfront block screw/lpc* - better known as a banjo bolt, there is no need to upgrade a front block screw. however, macdev makes a front block screw that you can screw your lpr into, leaving the other hole open for a gauge. this can be convenient if you can't put a gauge on the bottom of your front block, but your front block becomes a mess. scratching may occur when you try to remove/install parts. a low pressure chamber is ok for minicockers and post 99 cockers, but full size 2k cockers don't need them. if you still want one, kapp makes some nice stainless steel ones.grips - grips can be your hands' best friend. a nice grip will give your trigger frame a much better feel.
- Dye Stickies
- Dye Sticky 3
- Smart Gripshammer* - a heavy hammer can mean a lower pressure and increased efficiency, but a hammer that's too heavy can mean a sluggish cocker. the stock hammer is just about the right weight and you can get very good efficiency with it. if you have to upgrade it, look at a jackal hi-speed hammer or a tungsten medium hammer.hopper - a motorized hopper is a great investment. electro cockers may need an evo II or halo, maybe even a warp feed. any other cocker only needs an agitated hopper. make this one of your first upgrades.
- hopper stickyhose - don't starve your cocker of air! get a stainless steel hose or macro line, never micro line. any kind of macro or s/s will work great.ivg - as long as your stock ivg is functional, don't bother looking into an aftermarket ivg. but kapp stainless steel ivgs are nice for the cocker owner who has everything.jam nut* - same as the ivg, if it works, don't change it. the check it s/s jam nut and kapp jam nuts are the same things, so flip a coin to decide which to buy.lpr* - an externally adjustable low pressure regulator is convenient for tuning. your stock lpr will work, but is a p.i.t.a. to adjust. a regulator that spikes can cause ball chops instead of pinches. palmer's rock regulators are very consistent, externally adjustable, and have a lifetime warranty. other great choices include the
- Palmers Rock
- Palmers Micro Rock
- Mac Dev Sonic lpr
- WGP Ticklermilling* - the second to last thing to have done to your cocker is milling. it's unnecessary but can make you stand out at the field. it's also great for taking off some extra weight.
jackal machine does great milling.o-rings - again, if you're building a cocker from scratch, you should pick up an o-ring kit to make sure you've got the right seals. they're also good for cocker first aid. WGP makes a color coded kit.pneumatic hoses* - hoses don't match your cocker? get a colored hose kit. but don't do it until you've got all the necessary upgrades first. most hose kits are the same.pump arm - cosmetic/weight loss upgrade. the titanium pump arm from pbgear.com or kapp aluminum pump arms are great.push/pull pin - your stock push pin will work fine. there's a chance it'll break, though. you'll obviously need to replace it. if you get a bolt that requires a pull pin, it'll usually come with one. buying a new pin is unnecessary as it will only make your cocker look better. if you must, just find the one you think looks best. kapp makes nice pull pins and animalpaintball.com has a really cool skull push pin.
- Kapp Pull Pins

ram* - for a snappy feel a smooth ram may be what you're looking for. rams that aren't honed well can make your cocker feel sluggish. it can also allow for lower cocking pressure. electrococker owners will want a ram that can keep up with their frame.
- WGP STO Ram
- Kapp FAT Ram
- Belsales .44 Magnum Ram
these rams are faster than necessary.regulator* - a good inline regulator is very important to the performance of your cocker. an externally adjustable, consistant, and reliable regulator is a great upgrade. some of which include the palmer stabilizer, macdev gladiator, air america vigilante, and bob long torpedo.
- Palmers Stabalizer
- Mac Dev Gladiator
- Air America Vigilante
- Bob Long Torpedo
- AKA Sidewindersear - for slider frames, a rolling sear will make for a much smoother pull. hinge users will not notice much of a difference with a rolling sear. shocktech and omega both make good rolling sears.
springs* - essential for an efficient low pressure setup. guide to sweetspotting for efficiency. maddman springs have worked wonders for me.
- Maddman Spring Kittank - hpa is highly recommended because it's cleaner. however, co2 won't kill a cocker like some say. look into the air systems forum for more info.timing rod* - replace only if you bent your old timing rod or had your cocker cut down into a mini. dye makes them in both sizes, and omega makes a titanium timing rod (note, this comes with a titanium coupler).trigger frame* - when it comes to the old slider vs. hinge debate, it's 100% preference. try both before making a decision. choose the one that feels better i don't know of any good sliders, but the kapp reflex and eclipse blade are very popular. again, try them before deciding. to make your pull shorter you'll need a trigger stop as well. if you've got a couple hundred bucks to blow, e-blades are gaining in popularity for their speed.
- Eclipse E-blade
- WGP Worr Blade
- Centerflag Uprising Frame
- Eclipse Blade
- Kapp Reflex
- ANS Quickfire Slider Frame
- KAPP .45 Frametrigger plate - slider users may want to replace the trigger plate in their frame. kapp makes some that are good for cosmetically upgrading your cocker, but they've gotten bad reviews so far. omega makes a rolling trigger plate for an even smoother pull.valve* - stock valves are said to be the most efficient valves out there, so don't touch it. low pressure isn't what you should be shooting for, it's efficiency. if you're desperate for low pressure anyway, a Rat 3:16, maddman rocket, or aka tornado will do it for you.
- Rat 3:16 Valve
- AKA Tornado Valvevalve screw - kapp makes a stainless steel valve screw that comes in a screw kit.

maybe you could seperate them into categories like-
Air efficiency upgrades
Aesthetic upgrades
Minor Upgrades
or however everyone feels is the best way

and describe each part like this:
3 way* - probably the most important upgrade to your pneumatics is the 3 way. this helps determine how short your pull will be and will also change the feel of the trigger pull.
Recommended:
1)shocktech bomb, wgp copy this, and belsales hollow point

i'm thinking about adding links to reviews on the products. thing is, it'll take a lot of time, and i'm lazy i was also thinking about labeling them with letters that tell you what they do, like a barrel would be A for accuracy. then again, ->

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