If Christopher Colombus could discover America after a stop off at the island of La Gomera, I felt I should at least do a little local exploring in the island’s capital city of San Sebastian. With the 28 crews of the Talisker Whisky Atlantic Challenge heading for Antigua, something at least a little energetic was called for before taking the ferry back to Tenerife.

The Mirador de la Hila had already offered me rewarding views of the marina but after taking the steep stone steps up from behind the main plaza I was determined to press on up the corkscrew road. The views kept getting better, not just seawards but also inland to the folds of the hills. A tight corner brought me to the edge of an old parador, followed by an old water mill undergoing a facelift. I was on the cliff top road and the sign Camino del Faro showed me that I was on target to see the lighthouse I craned my neck to see on the ferry over.

There was a nice mix of old houses and new developments, tastefully kept to just two storeys and without any garish colour schemes. A couple of little shops and bars were shutting for an afternoon siesta, and the sun and gentle breeze wafted me along in a contented mood. The pink and white lighthouse stood proud but once I got closer I could see an older, squatter guardian nearer the cliff edge. The smaller version was built in 1903 and originally used combustable gas before being replaced at a later date by the more familiar style of lighthouse. It was very like the dual set up at Malpais de Rasca in the south of Tenerife. A tight, winding path carried on past the delightful buildings, and a craggy coastline threw sea spray up far below.

I slowly retraced my steps and noticed a small, leafy plaza, a few steps up from the road, two local old chaps were playing dominoes and enjoying a couple of cold beers. Back down at street level I had a wander down the main street from the plaza, looking up I could see a white cross on another hill, something to check out on my next visit. There were two churches on the quiet road, the large church of Assumption, and the tiny Ermita of Guadalupe.

La Gomera is very proud of its association with Christopher Columbus (Cristobal Colon) there was a small bust of the great explorer near the sea end of the street, best described as “different”. It looks like I feel some weekend mornings and was unveiled in 2006 by King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia of Spain. A much more noble tribute is the new full size statue near the plaza, unveiled in summer 2018. For such a small island, La Gomera packs in plenty of history. Through the archway cave on the far side of the ferry port, the Playa de la Cueva looked sedate and inviting, the view of Tenerife and Mount Teide differs from day to day depending on the weather. The old restaurant on this side has been closed and neglected for years, so it was a good sign to see workman repairing the surrounding courtyard. It meant that access to the rocky outcrop was closed, there is a metal bowl at its peak, it was lit up with a beacon from the Olympic torch for the 1968 Tokyo games, and the 50th anniversary was celebrated recently.

The rest of La Gomera is equally pleasing, I must revisit other points on the island, I checked out the bus station and Vallehermoso in the north is just a 75 minute ride away, and there are plenty of good walks to check out. My last trip around the island was shadowing a British Cycling team, those hill roads are real thrillers. San Sebastian in now firmly on the rowing map, another Atlantic Challenge takes place next year. The 45 minute crossing back to Tenerife was smooth and the ferry was quite full, La Gomera has won plenty more new admirers.