Hmmm... now you've really got me wondering if it's a reverse thread on where the lens focus starts at as received. If the lens threads are left hand, I'll be surprised. One thing for sure is that moving the lens closer to the CMOS sensor will move the focal point further away. I hope to have my camera tomorrow and will zero in on this.

The threads are standard not CCW.

At least on my 808HD I turn the lens CW (looking from the front at the lens) and the lens screws into the body. Turning CCW, the lens comes away from the body (and sensor)

At least on my 808HD I turn the lens CW (looking from the front at the lens) and the lens screws into the body. Turning CCW, the lens comes away from the body (and sensor)

Unless you're in Australia where everything is upside down

YMMV but I doubt it

Yabba

Be careful screwing it in too far - I don't think there's a mechanical stop in my 808SD's and maybe could screw down to impact the CMOS. Hate to speculate but fair warning until proven otherwise.

Also speculating that the tolerances on the plastic screw might allow very slight wallowing of the barrel, so that could make off focus to one side or top. The slight off focus we see is not like the cross thread case, IMO.

Be careful screwing it in too far - I don't think there's a mechanical stop in my 808SD's and maybe could screw down to impact the CMOS. Hate to speculate but fair warning until proven otherwise.

Also speculating that the tolerances on the plastic screw might allow very slight wallowing of the barrel, so that could make off focus to one side or top. The slight off focus we see is not like the cross thread case, IMO.

Thanks for that. I'm going to try today to focus it better. I didn't plan on going more then 1/4 turn in either direction anyway but it's good to have a heads up.

I put 3 tic marks on the front of the lens at 0, -90 and +90 so I think if I can't get what I want in a quarter turn I'll just go back to zero and call it good.

For us the protected TF card slot could be interesting (I one had one card jumping out into the grass...).

From the other thread, a lot of us use a small dab of hot glue over the end of the card/slot to keep the card from ejecting accidently. It peels off with your thumbnail if you need to get the card out.

A piece of tape will do the same thing.

We learned the hard way when we'd lose a $20 card in a $10 camera when we crashed.

At least now, with the 808HD, the card isn't twice the price of the camera, the camera is twice the price of the card

I just did a test record on the way to work on my 1 hour commute. The video says in the direction, that it automatically cuts the video every 20 minutes. So with that said when I try to watch a video from the 2 20 minute clips from the beginning the video comes up as an error. I did some more testing, If I end the video manually before 20 minutes the video is fine. A 21 min. video comes up with an error: Error- 2002: a bad public movie atom was found in the movie (PTDC0004.MOV)

I just did a test record on the way to work on my 1 hour commute. The video says in the direction, that it automatically cuts the video every 20 minutes. So with that said when I try to watch a video from the 2 20 minute clips from the beginning the video comes up as an error. I did some more testing, If I end the video manually before 20 minutes the video is fine. A 21 min. video comes up with an error: Error- 2002: a bad public movie atom was found in the movie (PTDC0004.MOV)

I'd like to have one of those clips to look at, but they must be over 1GB each and too big to post. What player are you using that gives this error? What happens with a different player?

I'll get in touch with my camera source contact to see what's going on with this. Can any one else confirm this with a different camera?

BTW... be very careful!... bad public movie atoms can be hazardous to your health!

From the other thread, a lot of us use a small dab of hot glue over the end of the card/slot to keep the card from ejecting accidently. It peels off with your thumbnail if you need to get the card out.

A piece of tape will do the same thing.

We learned the hard way when we'd lose a $20 card in a $10 camera when we crashed.

At least now, with the 808HD, the card isn't twice the price of the camera, the camera is twice the price of the card

Yabba

Thanks! Talking about the cards..... Exactly today I came back with a dead 8 GB card .... None of my PC's (different kinds of SD adapters used, different readers etc.....) recognize it. Volume doesn't even show up in the disc manager. Seems to be completely dead. It's an original Kingston. So I can conclude that the camera destroyed my card!

Thanks! Talking about the cards..... Exactly today I came back with a dead 8 GB card .... None of my PC's (different kinds of SD adapters used, different readers etc.....) recognize it. Volume doesn't even show up in the disc manager. Seems to be completely dead. It's an original Kingston. So I can conclude that the camera destroyed my card!

Well not quite... you can only conclude that the card was in the camera when it died. This could happen in ANY camera.

Thanks! Talking about the cards..... Exactly today I came back with a dead 8 GB card .... None of my PC's (different kinds of SD adapters used, different readers etc.....) recognize it. Volume doesn't even show up in the disc manager. Seems to be completely dead. It's an original Kingston. So I can conclude that the camera destroyed my card!

There are utility programs that can restore corrupted SD cards back to life, even if they are no longer seen as a drive. I posted a link back on the MEGA thread, but have lost track of it. You might want to Google for that, it's worth a try

One way a card might be corrupted is if the cam is jolted while recording is taking place.

Thanks, I will have a look. Nothing special happened during the last recording.

I have experience with Recuva, to recover files from a corrupted card. But then the card was always recognized (not as a valid volume, but at least it got a drive letter)...

Now nothing happens, when I insert the card. Even no item in device manager under disk drives, or whatever. But I will have a look in that thread, thanks for your hint. Looks like the PC doesn't even detect that I insert the card.

Now nothing happens, when I insert the card. Even no item in device manager under disk drives, or whatever. But I will have a look in that thread, thanks for your hint. Looks like the PC doesn't even detect that I insert the card.

I have seen where folks have reformatted a non-responsive card in a camera (with format feature such as Casio), then it works. You say you tried PC's, which use complicated registry witchdoctoring, cameras might find the card easier and execute a reformat. Easy and safe to try!