If you haven't done so before, Google "Pliny the Elder clone". That's probably the best way to start. By nature of freshness alone a hop bomb homebrew is going to come out hoppier than an equivalent commercial version.

If you want a really abrasive bitterness, use Chinook or Columbus for your bittering addition. Stick with a clean ale yeast that gets out of the way of the hops (WLP001/WY1056/US-05 is the most common choice). Keep the grain bill simple as well. I like 2-row/Munich/Victory for my grain bill, but 2-row plus 5-10% Crystal in the 20-60L range works as well.

If I were to shoot for a really abrasive IPA I'd do something like 100 IBU's of Chinook at 60 minutes, 3 oz each of Simcoe, Columbus and Chinook at flameout followed by a 90 minute hop stand, then 2 oz of each of those hops for dry hops (for a 5-gallon batch).

This is what makes homebrewing so awesome! You can add as many hops as you please! My experience tells me to nail most of your BUs in the 60 min, bump it up a little with a 20 or 10 minute addition and add as many hops as you can at flame out, then dry hop the heck out of it.

The "Pliny Clone" suggestion is a good one. Before I ever got to try a IIPA I tried the Pliny clone and I just couldn;t believe how much hops went into that beer. It boggled my mind. It taught me how to brew a IIPA and I still use that basic format.

My favorite bittering hop for IPA is CTZ, and my favorite aroma hop for IPA is Centennial. But I also like to blend in some Amarillo, Simcoe and then add some spiciness and depth with a european hop.

Keep the malt profile in check. Nothing ruins a good IIPA than heavy malt "sweetness". Keep the crystal malt balanced out with some sugar additions for dryness.

Mitch Steele has some input on this on this forum and in his book IPA. I've used his ideas recently and my IPAs are better for it. Added sulfates (gypsum) to dry out the beer and enhance to hops. Keep the grain bill simple and minimize the crystal. Add lots of hops at the end of the boil and yes, dry hop the heck out of it. Good luck

« Last Edit: May 31, 2013, 05:56:20 PM by joe_feist »

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Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.Mark Twain

AWESOME hop advice from both posts. If I could add anything at all : 1) +1 to CTZ or Chinook for a nice,abrasive bitterness. 2) Go and download Martin's Bru'nWater and use the Pale Ale profile, which will enhance hoppiness . 3) Dry hop @ 1 oz / gallon. 4) Add another oz to your keg when you keg if you do so. 5) Smile as you sip !

I think a single 30 minute addition of an ounce of Columbus or Chinook really makes for a nice heavily bitter brew without sacrificing much of the flavor. Primarily, you want to go with 50-60 BU's for a 5.6% brew and the one addition. Add the all the hops after the hot-break and all you need is 30 minutes.

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I think I will get over my fear of putting something that is not sanitized in my beer, also known as dry hoping. Do the Alpha Amino acids really prevent it from getting contaminated?

Also I should start paying more attention to the hops I buy. So far all I have figured out with hops is I don't like Citra, gave my beer a fruity taste.

No, there's no worry about contamination from dry hopping. The vast majority of people on this forum do it, and if there was a risk, nobody would. The alcohol present in the beer creates an environment that's inhospitable to most any bacteria that might be present on the dry hops. No worries. But if you really like hop flavor and aroma, there's just no substsitue for dry hopping, especially in an APA or AIPA. As for Citra, people tend to love it or hate it, as it is a very strong hop. I like it blended with other hops but in a lesser amount, because blended in equal parts it tends to take over IMO.