Well, a remap with no other modifications gives quite a big gain anyway, i have heard of 200Hp being claimed

The standard airbox/ filter is phisically very large, and if 200Hp is possible, probably not that restrictive

Fitting a very lage, heavy intercooler was popular on the mk3s, but can increase the internal volume, which increases turbo lag, also, part of the intercooler was "masked" behind the bumper, - i saw some performance times where the 30-70 / 50-70mph in top was quicker with a(bluefin) remap only than with a Bluefin remap, decat and large Airtech intercooler - i blame the intercooler

But it just shows you have to be careful - sometimes "performance" mods make the car slower

You could get a DPF delete (phisical and electronic) with a large diameter (2-1/2 or 3") stainless- steel exhaust with "sports" silencers, - there are companies that do a package, with a rolling - road test as well (before/ after)

K&N do a filter for the mk4 2.2 (i think) but the oil can interfere with the MAF sensor (K&N oiled cotton filters) the filter is not very effective when it is new (allows particles of dust in that can damage your bores/ engine) - only after the K&N gets older does it filter effectively On top of this the filter may not be the most restrictive part of the intake - and the only reason the "performance" filter "feels" quicker is because it was new, and it replaced an old, clogged filter - and it made more noise (induction roar - the 2nd best placibo after a loud exhaust! )

There more - as the dirt builds up on the air filter, it can reduce the airflow - so the boost pressure is reduced (slightly), the ECU compensates for this, by increasing the boost back to where it was (making the turbo work harder) so you don't notice any difference and peak power stays the same (even when measured on a dyno) conversely, and the only noticable difference may be a slight increase in lag If you manage to increase airflow, the ECU detects this as an increase in boost, compensates (so at least the turbo does not have to wirk quite so hard (its a subtle difference, though) and the engine picks up a bit better from low revs - peak power may stay the same/ or a very mall increase = like 1Hp - this is why i have a laugh at those videos where they are trying different filters (on modern turbo cars) and, surprise, surprise, there is virtually no difference between the stock filter and "performance filters"

there are pipercross foam ones (at least it wont contaminate your MAF sensor) but its doubtful you would get any more power with these either - i would just change the stock fiter every 6 months

As you have the PSA engine it may be worth looking on the Pug and Citroen forums to see what they do to tune the engine

The remap (Bluefin?) would make the biggest difference, followed by the DPF delete then a better- flowing exhaust, these things would give you a significant boost and for not exessive amounts of money cheeap little bits and peices would probably not make any significant difference after that and you would probably have to spend ££££££s to get a big gain after that (hybrid turbo, bigger injectors, special fuel (nos etc)

Let us know how you get on - why don't you do a build thread? here is mine -

Well, a remap with no other modifications gives quite a big gain anyway, i have heard of 200Hp being claimed

The standard airbox/ filter is phisically very large, and if 200Hp is possible, probably not that restrictive

Fitting a very lage, heavy intercooler was popular on the mk3s, but can increase the internal volume, which increases turbo lag, also, part of the intercooler was "masked" behind the bumper, - i saw some performance times where the 30-70 / 50-70mph in top was quicker with a(bluefin) remap only than with a Bluefin remap, decat and large Airtech intercooler - i blame the intercooler

But it just shows you have to be careful - sometimes "performance" mods make the car slower

You could get a DPF delete (phisical and electronic) with a large diameter (2-1/2 or 3") stainless- steel exhaust with "sports" silencers, - there are companies that do a package, with a rolling - road test as well (before/ after)

K&N do a filter for the mk4 2.2 (i think) but the oil can interfere with the MAF sensor (K&N oiled cotton filters) the filter is not very effective when it is new (allows particles of dust in that can damage your bores/ engine) - only after the K&N gets older does it filter effectively On top of this the filter may not be the most restrictive part of the intake - and the only reason the "performance" filter "feels" quicker is because it was new, and it replaced an old, clogged filter - and it made more noise (induction roar - the 2nd best placibo after a loud exhaust! )

There more - as the dirt builds up on the air filter, it can reduce the airflow - so the boost pressure is reduced (slightly), the ECU compensates for this, by increasing the boost back to where it was (making the turbo work harder) so you don't notice any difference and peak power stays the same (even when measured on a dyno) conversely, and the only noticable difference may be a slight increase in lag If you manage to increase airflow, the ECU detects this as an increase in boost, compensates (so at least the turbo does not have to wirk quite so hard (its a subtle difference, though) and the engine picks up a bit better from low revs - peak power may stay the same/ or a very mall increase = like 1Hp - this is why i have a laugh at those videos where they are trying different filters (on modern turbo cars) and, surprise, surprise, there is virtually no difference between the stock filter and "performance filters"

there are pipercross foam ones (at least it wont contaminate your MAF sensor) but its doubtful you would get any more power with these either - i would just change the stock fiter every 6 months

As you have the PSA engine it may be worth looking on the Pug and Citroen forums to see what they do to tune the engine

The remap (Bluefin?) would make the biggest difference, followed by the DPF delete then a better- flowing exhaust, these things would give you a significant boost and for not exessive amounts of money cheeap little bits and peices would probably not make any significant difference after that and you would probably have to spend ££££££s to get a big gain after that (hybrid turbo, bigger injectors, special fuel (nos etc)

Let us know how you get on - why don't you do a build thread? here is mine -

Yes, i looked at the build thread but never made the connection to this thread

Is it a 172 or 200PS 2.2?

The DPF is probably the most restrictive part of the exhaust - it has to be electronically deleted, as well as phisically removed, if it is only phisically removed, fault codes can be generated, the engine may even go into limp home mode

Because the DPF is the most restrictive part of the exhaust, there would be no technical advantage in replacing the rest of the exhaust with a larger bore and it may just add weight - (though the turbo may spool up a little quicker/ and it would be another thing done before you get your DPF removed, i suppose)

If the remap is done before the DPF is removed, the remap cannot take that into account/ the remap would be optomised for the car the way it was when the remap was done (the DPF still attached) (best to get all the phisical things done 1st, then the remap)

That is why its best to get the custom exhaust, phisical DPF removal and electronic DPF delete(part of the remap) + the remap, all in the same place, otherwise as the electronic DPF delete is usually part of the remap you might have to do it/ pay for it twice, or pay more than getting it done together

With a custom remap/ ss exhaust/ DPF delete, they often discuss what you want (how loud you want it/ your needs etc) do a road test, then a "before" dyno run, then fit the exhaust / remove the DPF, then they load the map , do an "after" map, then take it for another road test, to check there are no bad flat spots/ exessive smoke / problems etc - you should get a printout of the before/ after power/ torque

Though it is expensive, it all gets done at once (so you dont need to remap it twice etc) the remap is optomised for the exhaust/ DPF delete and any other phisical mods (eg - intercooler) and set up nicely

Its worth getting rid of the DPF (can give trouble in te future/ removing it helps MPG, especially regens etc, save money in the long run too)

But performance-wise the remap makes the biggest difference

Superchips are claiming 220Hp (+ 492Nm!) with the Bluefin, a remap would probably be similar thats with no phisical mods- thats probably why no-one bothers with other modifications (+ its not a RS etc )

Its a relatively big heavy car but thats a lot of power and torque and the car will be vey quick (with just the remap)

Its probably worth cleaning out the EGR/ inlet manifold, you can blank the EGR but it will generate an EML, as fas as i am aware no- one has managed to electronically delete the EGR, some just disconnect one of the wires to the EGR valve

Thats my pennies' worth anyway

Ps - i like what you have done to your car - very sleek and subtle - the wheels really suit it too

Yes, i looked at the build thread but never made the connection to this thread

Is it a 172 or 200PS 2.2?

The DPF is probably the most restrictive part of the exhaust - it has to be electronically deleted, as well as phisically removed, if it is only phisically removed, fault codes can be generated, the engine may even go into limp home mode

Because the DPF is the most restrictive part of the exhaust, there would be no technical advantage in replacing the rest of the exhaust with a larger bore and it may just add weight - (though the turbo may spool up a little quicker/ and it would be another thing done before you get your DPF removed, i suppose)

If the remap is done before the DPF is removed, the remap cannot take that into account/ the remap would be optomised for the car the way it was when the remap was done (the DPF still attached) (best to get all the phisical things done 1st, then the remap)

That is why its best to get the custom exhaust, phisical DPF removal and electronic DPF delete(part of the remap) + the remap, all in the same place, otherwise as the electronic DPF delete is usually part of the remap you might have to do it/ pay for it twice, or pay more than getting it done together

With a custom remap/ ss exhaust/ DPF delete, they often discuss what you want (how loud you want it/ your needs etc) do a road test, then a "before" dyno run, then fit the exhaust / remove the DPF, then they load the map , do an "after" map, then take it for another road test, to check there are no bad flat spots/ exessive smoke / problems etc - you should get a printout of the before/ after power/ torque

Though it is expensive, it all gets done at once (so you dont need to remap it twice etc) the remap is optomised for the exhaust/ DPF delete and any other phisical mods (eg - intercooler) and set up nicely

Its worth getting rid of the DPF (can give trouble in te future/ removing it helps MPG, especially regens etc, save money in the long run too)

But performance-wise the remap makes the biggest difference

Superchips are claiming 220Hp (+ 492Nm!) with the Bluefin, a remap would probably be similar thats with no phisical mods- thats probably why no-one bothers with other modifications (+ its not a RS etc )

Its a relatively big heavy car but thats a lot of power and torque and the car will be vey quick (with just the remap)

Its probably worth cleaning out the EGR/ inlet manifold, you can blank the EGR but it will generate an EML, as fas as i am aware no- one has managed to electronically delete the EGR, some just disconnect one of the wires to the EGR valve

Thats my pennies' worth anyway

Ps - i like what you have done to your car - very sleek and subtle - the wheels really suit it too

Thanks for that.

Will have a chat with the guys doing my exhaust and see if they can make a part to replace the DPF. Then when re-mapping get the part swopped and deleted.

Excuse my ignorance, but what is an EGR? How do I clean it? And why does it make a difference??

The EGR is a system for recycling the exhaust gasses into the inlet, EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation, in theory it helps the emmisions and to get the car into a lower tax bracket - unfortunately in practice it contaminates the inlet (manifold and EGR housing/ often some of the boost hoses etc, depending on the design) with carbon/ soot from the exhaust, over time this can build up and "choke" the air going into the engine, even when it is new/ working correctly it can cause hesitation/ flat spots/ turbo lag

If the valve fails it can jam open, causing serious loss of power, lots of smoke and the car can go into "limp home mode" or not start at all, a new EGR valve can cost £200 (from Ford) i have heard of mk3 Mondeo owners having to replace their EGR valve 4 times

Often Ford owners fit a blanking plate (solid, stainless steel- approx £5) this can be fitted to Euro3 engines with no problems, but on a Euro 4 or 5 it can put the EML (engine management light) on, this will not usually cause other problems and can simply be ignored, or every now and again reset with a OBD2 code reader

The PSA engine the EGR system is more "integrated" into the engines systems and more difficult to block, disable or remove, some owners just remove one of the leads going to the EGR valve to disable it, others leave the system working but clean it out (EGR valve & inlet manifold) once in a while, (should be part of the service shedule)

Blanking or disabling the EGR is not going to massively increase the power, but may help the engine pick up a bit better from low revs/ eliminate low end flat spots, and help to keep the intake clean and potential problems with your EGR system/ valve

iif you clean out your inlet manifold get new seals definitely 1st. I did mines couple weeks ago,took it off today & had a look,& soot covering 2 seals,so no good. away to buy new 1's tomorrow. (all bolts were torqued up to spec and seals back in original places as well,too)

iif you clean out your inlet manifold get new seals definitely 1st. I did mines couple weeks ago,took it off today & had a look,& soot covering 2 seals,so no good. away to buy new 1's tomorrow. (all bolts were torqued up to spec and seals back in original places as well,too)

A 'How To' would be good. I'm not shy with spanners .. But the big plastic cover scares me!!

Its not a hard job but one thats GOT to be done properly. Manifolds aint cheap if you twist it just a little it will leak. Oh,do this when engine is totally cold as if its hot theres more chance you'll shear a bolt or manifold might twist with heat. When you put manifold back on be very careful youre not trapping anything behind it.(been there before lol).
Its a case of removing egr bolts,take egr off,remove cam position sensor connector,then the vacuum part(2bolts),then little by little slacken off manifold bolts,starting from outside working your way into center. Once its off,& youre cleaning all the crud off the ports,make SURE youre not dropping any bits into the engine.(i got an old hoover & sucked it all out as i dug it out).
When you clean your manifold make sure the manifold seals go back in exact same positions as they came out as it lessens the risk of leaks when you reassemble it.
If i were you get some petrol for cleaning it as it works better than carb cleaner & carb cleaners not great for plastic,although ive not heard of CC damaging it.
Refitting is just reverse of removing it and obviously you torque the manifold bolts up from center working outwards. Cant remember the exact torque but think it was about 16-18nM
Theres maybe a guide on talkford website. Sorry if ive forgotten anything as im not looking at engine while writing this