Travelers usually venture to Assisi, the Umbrian town that was home to St. Francis, for a reverential, religious experience. To some people, going to a spa is a religious experience. In the recently transformed NUN Assisi Relais & Spa Museum, formerly the Saint Catherine Convent, it can be both-- with a double dose of history: Roman columns, part of an ancient amphitheater, were unearthed during the renovation and incorporated in the design.

The effect of this, soaking in the thermal springs pool while flanked by seven limestone pillars from the 1st century A.D., is to feel that you’re in the middle of history, or in a magazine layout. But this spa is not just beautiful, it has a strong medical focus: even a simple massage is followed by a comprehensive analysis of every single thing that’s not quite right with your body and what you should do about it…but delivered in comforting tones. Those who can handle abrupt temperature changes can try the four room Nun Path, a variation of hot to cold with variations of humidity, a revival of a Roman regeneration treatment. (although only the most stalwart should attempt the Frigidarium.) And treatments span the globe, from hammam rituals to Thai and Ayurvedic.

You can go in for treatments specifically but it’s even better to stay there, in one of the 18 rooms, some small enough to reflect the convent origins, others current day suite-spacious. The décor is soothing white with a few earth tone accessories, bordered by the original stone walls and arches; some rooms also have original frescoes.

And since this is a spa in Italy and not the U.S., with the frequent weight loss emphasis in spas there, the restaurant,located in the former cloister, is exceptional. When you have a lunch of pasta with white truffles, followed by the typical roast pork, porchetta, you have no sense of deprivation. And if you feel a need to atone for it, Assisi’s religious monuments are just steps away.

While in the area, I decided to try a couple of new things and revisit some favorites. These were the results: the new high speed luxury Italo train, which I took from Naples to Florence, is an extremely stylish improvement over the state run rail service, with three classes of service (In the business class Prima: reclining leather seats, free WiFi, meals and drinks delivered to your seat by personable attendants, including, in our car, a former flight attendant). (In the U.S., book through RailEurope,.) AutoEurope, which I’ve been using for years, still gets the best deals in rental cars, including automatics which only Americans request and are always more expensive than manual shifts.

Stopping in Tuscany after Umbria, the new Castello di Casole has gorgeous views of the Sienese hills but as a residential development with some hotel rooms seems like prefab Tuscany catering to Americans (who, from their voices, seemed to comprise all of the other guests.) Its restaurant also served the worst food I’ve ever had in Italy. Old favorite Relais Il Falconiere & Spa, over the Tuscany/Umbria line in Cortona, on the other hand, exudes authentic Tuscan charm, the guests are international, the owners Riccardo and Silvia Barrachi are supremely welcoming hosts and Silvia’s kitchen serves some of the best food in the region.

Also, as a help to making plans and reservations while on the road, I took along a Tep portable wireless hotspot, having fallen victim to massive cell phone roaming charges in the past. For moderate mobile use, the fee was $100 over two weeks, a far cry from the thousands I’ve paid. I’ll take one on the road again.