1st attempt, fan loud. Ps3 lasted about 2 wks. 2nd attempt noticed very poor contact between heatsink & cpu,gpu when taking it apart. Research - Found a better way to apply thermal past. I personally disapprove of guide on this. A small bit about the size of a grain of rice in center of cpu is plenty. Clamp the heat sinks back on. Then take it apart & check contact area. Thermal paste should have spread to about the size of a quarter.(more is better. Less then a nickel size is poor contact) possibly weak clamps. Carefully applied pressure onto the cpu & gpu, pressing them into the heatsinks before clamping heatsink clamps on. Achieved greater then quarter sized thermal past spread. Fan silent in comparison & ps3 lasted about a yr. Rarely did I ever hear the fan go to high and get loud after that. About to begin my third fix on this same ps3. One of the first 80g backwards compatible. other then those notes and that this guide was for a different model ps3 (minor differences) I liked this guide. easy to follow.

Although the battery is described as proprietary, it looks like it is the common CR2032 lithium coin battery that is used in calculators and some computers. I haven't had to replace mine but I suspect under the heatshrink cover is a battery holder which will allow the coin battery to be removed and replaced. Then wrap with electrical tape and reinstall.

I tried this with the heatgun and it ruined my PS3. The CPU and GPU are NOW RUINED!!! It did not work for and made things worst!!! I sent it to a place to get reballed and they said the HEATGUN had overheated my processor and killed them!!! So think twice about doing this. Just because it is already broken, DON'T THINK YOU CAN'T MAKE IT WORST!

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The top would hardly budge on the left back corner and was stuck on the right back corner. There is a plastic hook that needs to be unfastened to lift the top off. It is located in a hole on the top back corner on the right hand side, so the corner straight across the on off button. Just gently push the plastic hook a bit front the rear of the machine with a spudger. It gives easily and the top will be free to lift off after that.

Every system that I have seen has had the ZIF connector, while some had tape over the connection as well. If your connectors are taped, be sure to remove the tape, then proceed with undoing the ZIF connector.

The version 2 systems baseboard PCB started switching to the new narrow 24 pin ZIF header/ribbon and Blu-Ray drive connection.

You should not attempt to detach the taped ribbon cable from the drive end first as described above for the older wide 60 pin ribbons. You must remove the drive and ribbon as one unit to protect the fragile ZIF sockets.

The slimmer fragile ribbon is taped to the drive housing to afford a more secure ZIF connection. The opposite base connection is slightly under the PSU.

One should firstly remove the PSU: Disconnect the drive power cable as described above. Unscrew the 5 (3-P1 2-P2) PSU mounting screws. Now leaving the power cables attached, lift the PSU off the power baseboard PCB pins and move over slightly to access the baseboard drive cable end ZIF. Release the ZIF latch and slide the entire (drive and ribbon) strait away from the baseboard ZIF to disconnect.

After the complete drive/ribbon removal, you can carefully remove the restraining tape on the bottom of the drive to release the ribbon ZIF, then remove the 24 pin ribbon from the drive logic PCB.

Install in reverse order making sure to add new tape to secure the ribbon to the drive.

I needed to remove the PSO completely to reach the baseboard drive cable end ZIF. To do that disconnect the power and data (I assume) cables and then pull the unit straight up. To longish prongs are heading straight up into it from the baseboard and it is a bit tight, so gently pull until it's clear.

If you are replacing the Blu-ray drive, you must use the same daughterboard that came with your PlayStation 3. The daughterboard is paired to the motherboard, and the Blu-ray drive will not work with a different board. -------------- I understand however my daughterboard is not on the bottom of the blu-ray drive it must be on the inside. Is there any advice out there on how I go about doing this as I am not sure what I am doing???? If someone could post a link or any tips it would be greatly appreciated.

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With extreme caution move the BluRay control board in a flipping motion by moving the left side of the controller upwards levering towards the right. Keep the right side of the controller close to the BluRay drive as the red and black A7 cable is delicate.

Remove cable A7 which is the cable that links the PS3s disc drive eject detector to the control board.

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Part C is a stabilizer and grounding contact to help absorb movement while the Blu-ray drive is in use. This may be located in a different area of your drive as decided by the manufacturer. There may also be additional ones. Make sure when reassembling to put this stabiliser back in the same place as it is originally found even if it is not found in exactly the same location as this article. Failure to do so could result in disc scratching.

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The KES-4000AAA laser is known to work with the following models: CECHE03, CECHA03, CECHC03, CECHG03, CECHB0 and CECHC03 but more varients accept the KES-400AAA laser assembly. Please contact the seller for more information. Generally older models with 4 usb ports accept the KES-4000AAA while the 2 usb models use the KES-410CA laser assembly.

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Perhaps this guide can integrate the procedure for removing a stuck disc? Many YLOD units die with a disc in the drive and some repair service providers charge extra to remove it. What's worse, sometimes it is not your disc! I was going to send it to Sony for my repair except that the disc inside is rented and needs to be extracted right away. The repair providers who charge extra implied to me that they charge extra because the drive needs a disc reinserted if it is going to work again when booted up in a working PS3 (something about rails that would fall without a disc holding them up). I believe that they throw in a blank CD/DVD or one of those clear plastic separator discs that come in recordable disc cake-boxes on the top and bottom of the stack.

One comment or question really: Between steps 9 and 10 a heat shield magically appears. In Step 9 when you see the drive being taken off, there's no apparent heat shield.

But in Step 10 we see the heat shield. On my unit, there doesn't appear to be one. So this was - and is - a little confusing. I thought somehow I'd lost the part. (Though in the space I was working, there's just nowhere it could have gone.) Is this a problem to not have this? It's hard to tell from your pics whether the original had a shield or not or if these were two different units.

You are correct, the units in steps 9 and 10 are different. Steps 1-9 are part of an original iFixit tear-down, steps 10-15 are my user-created guide which iFixit staff have merged with their own.

There may be some variation between units, if your original disc drive didn't have a heat shield then I wouldn't worry. It doesn't appear that the unit in steps 1-9 from iFixit had one either. Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad the guide helped you fix your issue.

It is not recommended to replace just the laser unit. It is better to replace the drive chassis (metal part, including the rail and disc spindle motor) as an assembly because the height of the rails are calibrated in factory. Unscrewing the rail screws will change the alignment and you can't calibrate it.

Not sure if this is the best way to do this. I just need a little help or a point in the right direction. I can't seem to find the information I need on the playstation or Toms Hardware forums. I bought a ysed 60gb ps3 on Ebay. It plays everything but ps2. It see's that a ps2 disc is in the drive but thescreen goes black and the controller turns off when I try to play it. Could it be a problem with the laser or something else? I'm trying to educate myself in electronics better and DIY maintenance but am very frustrated by the lack of poor support I have found online and the amount of uneducated and inconsiderate answers I find in certain forums. I'm hoping somebody can help me here.

Make sure you have truly have a BWC unit by checking the model number. If it's a CECHH01, you are safe. Not sure about the other BWC model numbers. Non-BWC units will still play original Playstation games, but not PS2 games, so that could be your problem.

If you do have the correct unit, if my memory serves correctly, there are two pieces of hardware on the Laser Assembly, one that reads BluRay discs, and another that reads the PS2 format DVDs. One can go out without affecting the other. So in short: yes, the BluRay laser assembly could affect your ability to play PS2 games without affecting your ability to play PS3 games. Again, if I remember correctly, I have replaced the BluRay laser assembly twice for this reason, though feel free to double check this with other users.

The wireless controller turning off is normal. Whenever you switch from the PS3's XMB to the emulation software to play BWC games, the controller will turn off, and you have to turn it back on. Nothing wrong here.

Thanks man. I really appreciate the answer. I do have the CECHA001 with the four usb ports in the front. I guess it actually has the PS2 chip inside rather than the semiBWC that came soon after. I read about the 2-laser thing myself but does that mean that the secondary laser is just for ps2 games whereas the primary laser reads everything else kind of like how it's capable to read everything in the newer Slim models but ps2? It recognizes the ps2 disc when I insert it and I can hear the parts start whirring but then the screen goes blank and I can't even quit playback and return to the main menu via the PS button but I can still hear the whirring of what I assume is the disk drive, I have to turn it off and back on again.

I can't guarantee that this is your problem, but from my memory, it seems mine was doing the same thing about five years ago. And yes, I meant CECHA01, not H01. That's what I get for second guessing myself and reading upside down :-)

The secondary laser is for PS2 games. They removed it to decrease costs. Newer models recognize a PS2 disk using the BluRay laser, which is what you are describing with yours. But newer models give an incompatibility message, rather than trying to load the games when selected, and then being unable to due to the apparent hardware failure of the second laser. The part you are looking for is here: Sony PlayStation 3 CECHA & CECHB Blu-ray Drive, though it is unavailable. You can buy the whole drive, or just the laser assembly, depending on your skill. I found the laser assembly a little more challenging, but reasonably manageable, and bought it off of eBay.

I took another look at my shopping history. It looks like the Laser Deck Assembly is this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Sony-PS3-Las.... (I am not endorsing the seller.) It seems not that there are two different lasers, but rather that a hardware chip is built into the Laser Deck Assembly that can read the PS2 disks. Again--it's been a while, but the more I look, the more my memory seems to be reinforced. Hope this helps.

Thanks again for the info. When you say you're not endorsing the seller, I assume you mean that you are unfamiliar with them and can't honestly comment rather than you won't endorse them because they're a crook. I'll fix this thing or at least attempt to before I take it to a local repair shop.

I think I'm gonna go ahead and just replace the entire drive as I'm pretty handy and dexterous but I've never attempted to fix one of these. Tom Chai mentioned above that it's best to replace the entire drive due to avoid calibration issues. Unless I'm mistaken, I've found quite a number of drives for sale online that are all less than $30. The one above that is unavailable is listed at $75. Is there a reason for the difference in price?

1. Your assumption is correct. I am unfamiliar with the seller. 2. IFixit is funded through sales. Parts are sometimes higher; plus, they are warrantied. Time is also a factor. I assume prices are not adjusted when there is no stock. 3. I am not sure. This is the only part I have had to replace in my PS3. You mentioned a whirring noise: possibly a fan, though unlikely. Or a gear somewhere (though most likely within the optical drive you intend to replace).

I read someplace as well that are upgrades to parts that can extend the life of the of this model of ps3 and to possibly prevent ylod such as a fan with more blades, leaded sauter(correct the spelling if incorrect if you dont mind) and some other things that Ican't recall. Feel free to share and let me know if I should be asking questions unrelated to the part being fixed elsewhere. Thanks for your support.

So sorry for the delay. I doubt iFixit will restock the part. I would recommend searching on eBay. You can still find new parts on there sometimes, or used parts with warranties. I replaced my lassr deck (not the whole drive) in approximately 2010, and I have not had a problem with it since. If I remembered the seller, I would refer you, but there are plenty on there selling both the laser deck assembly and the drive itself.

i got ps3 slim but the felt strip on all them looks the same was hoping to find a new one some where but most people have said have to get another drive to get one but most drives are second hand now , some where must sell one that fits id say just havnt had any luck finding one yet

Lol same i cant access the device storage and do anything and been blocked on the five options but cant format it because the hard drive is broken..

But luckily a friend of my brother brought to us his old ps3 but it cant read the disks so i came to the conclusion that the layser or something else was broken..And then today i thought why dont i take from my super slim ps3 the layser or what ever i need to take of and put it to the other ps3 that isn't the super slim version..So what do you think can i change that? PLEASE POEPLE IN HERE HELP I AM DESPERATE..

Hi. I'm having a problem with my unit its a four USB fat ps3 as pictured above. I try to play gta5 and either my hdd light becomes solid color fan picks up speed and unit freezes on load. Or it will freeze yellow hdd light but images on screen during loading keeps going but never loads. I changed hdd with two separate hdd and same problem. I can use Youtube but no games. I thought maybe take hdd out check the plug in on unit where hdd goes. Looks fine. I took top off unit cleaned out still same. So now I'm wondering since its a 2011 unit or older should I clean laser? I will have to tear down again and follow your steps above to get to it. Also I have two slims that I used there hdd to check my fat ps3 they have no power when plugged INS checking disk in separate unit is not available for me. I may just have to face facts and trash it. Buy a new ps4. But the cost…..thanks for advice if you have any. Jason B.

Sorry to add. But I also have a question on the whole erase data reload or reconfirm thing rockstar posted on there help forum. Is that honestly the only answer. I did all 12 steps they posted on turning off update and online turn off and every thing does nothing as far as improve load of game. Same problem after a good hour of deleting and redownloading for nothing to be gained. I'm an avid gta5 fan and its a stress relief. Honestly though there has to be others having problems i do.

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