The V at Hôtel Vernet

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Chef Richard Robe has crafted a menu that lives up to lofty surrounds at The V at Hôtel Vernet. Lofty because of the stunning iron and stained glass dome that lifts the eyes to the sky in the dining room. Designed by Gustave Eiffel, it’s a thing of beauty. And it sends a cascade of light down into the room – all the better to illuminate the food. There’s a wonderful eternal return of good things here.

The menu mixes together French and international influences to delicious effect, managing to create dishes that seem traditional, while being completely modern. Take the duck magret, roasted with peaches, almonds and verbena, dried fruits and grilled Sarasin. Or the frog’s leg tempura. Pie, meanwhile, becomes haute cuisine when stuffed with veal sweetbreads and gremolata, and glazed with juice; in fact, it’s good enough to don the name of the restaurant. And a romantic meal for two gets carnivorous with the two-person rib of beef, which is served with a matured Comté and parmesan cheese soufflé.

The room itself is furnished in shades of blue and green, like seaglass, and decorated throughout with contemporary works of art. But it’s the black tables that offset the colourful leather banquettes and add just that little extra stylish flair to the light and airy room.

A Hedonist’s guide to…

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