*up above doesn't not represent my bag or anything just used the above discs as an example. Im not even sure if there in the right catergorie. just an example*

I have heard people tell me and other keep it simple but soo many bags on here i fell like have 4 stable drivers 2 max D drivers 2 understable 3 overstable 3 mids 2 putters. so just wondering what i should shoot for in molds

I have heard people tell me and other keep it simple but soo many bags on here i fell like have 4 stable drivers 2 max D drivers 2 understable 3 overstable 3 mids 2 putters. so just wondering what i should shoot for in molds

The point of putting your discs into those categories is to find where you have overlap. If there's more than one mold in a category you have overlap. Now whether or not that overlap is justified is a different matter (some suggest having 2 mids or 2 stable control drivers, almost always a Teebird and somthing else), but you generally need no more than one mold per category and many times can get away with less.

Once you hvae a solid set of disc skills you can add overlap without seeing negataive side effects, but most people aren't there yet.

The point in reducing molds is to increase consistency. Try this for the next 5 rounds.

Take pencil/pen and paper and record this so you don't have to rely on memory.

Each shot that you pooch. Think about was it a shot you just missed or did you pick the wrong disc? Did it flip when you didn't expect it to? Did it not flip when you needed it too? Too overstable? Too short?

When you see that shot...see if you have another disc in your bag that you feel you should have thrown. Throw it and see how it comes out. If it's more like you expected, then, next time you play the hole, throw that disc and see how it works and make a note if it does or doesn't.

Your objective is to be able to come to a hole and know what disc you're going to throw. Odds are, if you have a reasonable amount of skill, there is not going to be just one disc you can make a shot with at any given time. However, you will probably come up with just a few that you make the shot with consistently. You want to pick one of those discs to use. How you choose that disc is up to you - maybe you like the color, the plastic, the design, whatever. But that's your disc for job/throw X. Do that with all your needed shots until you have a bag you have confidence in.

It may be that, say, you like the surge and the wraith. I believe them to be similar discs. So you like them both, but really, they are for about the same shot. Thus, you should pick one to throw. If you need a couple of them (one flippy, one not), so be it. But you don't pick a stable surge and a flippy wraith. Get to know one or the other and throw it.

Now. Maybe after some time, you get tired of the wraith and want to throw the surge. Same thing. If you can throw it reliably, just swap out your wraiths for the surges.

Your goal is to be able to walk up to any hole and know that the disc you're holding will do what you expect.

A teebird is one of the most popular discs around, but if you never throw it, aren't used to it, then walk up to a dead straight hole and expect to drive it dead straight, you're probably in for a surprise.

The more molds you have in your bag, the longer it will take for you to know what each disc/mold will do in a given situation. This is because it'll take longer for you to throw each disc enough times to understand what it will do in a variety of situations and scenarios. If you carry one disc with you, you learn pretty quick, don't you?

IMO, learning your discs better is only a minor reason for minimalism. The really big benefit is learning more shots so you're controlling where discs go rather than just trying to let a disc "do it's thing." If you're reliant on separate discs for every single line, you'll be limited to how many lines you can throw by how many discs you can carry. If you learn to work discs and control them, the number of lines you can throw will be limitless.

Once you get good at controlling your discs knowing exactly what a dics will do is actually less important. As long as you have a general idea you can work a disc to get the line you want. Granted if you know the disc well you can get exactly the line you want, but you won't be nearly as limited by what the disc can do when you only know how to throw one way.

Disc selection becomes a lot easier, too. Choosing the wrong beatness of Eagle might only mean you get a little more/less fade than you wanted. Choosing the wrong mold might mean you get more/less fade, more/less turn and more/less distance.

garublador wrote:Disc selection becomes a lot easier, too. Choosing the wrong beatness of Eagle might only mean you get a little more/less fade than you wanted. Choosing the wrong mold might mean you get more/less fade, more/less turn and more/less distance.

I think this is a critical point. I carry Pred, Wraith, Valk, Gazelle. It's pretty unlikely I'm going to get confused about which mold I'm using, as they're all occupying different spots/flight patterns/lengths.

There is some good discussion in this thread. In my bag, there are 4 main classes of discs. A) All out distance, B) Fairway drivers, C) Midranges, D) Putt and Approach. I then have (roughly) 3 discs (edit:of the same mold) for each category. For distance, I use 3 Orion LFs. One is overstable, one straight, one understable. For fairway drivers, I have 3 Teebirds. Again, one is overstable, one is straight, and one turns right on command. For mids, I have 3 Rocs: left, straight, right. For putt and approach, I have 3 Wizards . . . you get the idea.

This works great for me until gale-force winds come up, then I have to throw in the Predator, which gets me the same D as my overstable Teebird, but with more fade. I also keep a couple extra Wizards in the bag in case I need them.

With this base, then, I have my discs arrayed from 0-380'ish with all available flight paths. There are a few shots that I throw so rarely that I don't need a separate disc for it, though there may be better molds out there. Example: for forehand rollers and overhand shots, I use the Predator. For normal rollers and overhand shots that need to flip early, I use the beat Teebird.

The differences between the different particular discs of a mold are marginal. I can usually execute any given shot with 2 out of the three discs of the particular mold. For instance, I can throw a turnover with the beat Teebird, or I can throw the straight one closer to flat and get almost the same flight. It's just easier with the beat one.

My discs have not changed appreciably in almost 2 years, which has helped me with consistency. If I would just be content with 360' of golf D, and quit tweaking my form every 3 weeks, I could probably actually be a decent player, instead of the bottom of the barrel in the advanced class.

Morgan Lasley
When life gives you lemons, stick them in the freezer for a few hours, then throw them back, 'cause they're like rocks, man.

cmlasley wrote:If I would just be content with 360' of golf D, and quit tweaking my form every 3 weeks, I could probably actually be a decent player, instead of the bottom of the barrel in the advanced class.

I had myself convinced to be content with my distance for about 5 minutes earlier this year. Then I threw a Wizard 350' and went right back to, "stay crappy but try to learn to throw farther" mode.

garublador wrote:IMO, learning your discs better is only a minor reason for minimalism. The really big benefit is learning more shots so you're controlling where discs go rather than just trying to let a disc "do it's thing." If you're reliant on separate discs for every single line, you'll be limited to how many lines you can throw by how many discs you can carry. If you learn to work discs and control them, the number of lines you can throw will be limitless.

Once you get good at controlling your discs knowing exactly what a dics will do is actually less important. As long as you have a general idea you can work a disc to get the line you want. Granted if you know the disc well you can get exactly the line you want, but you won't be nearly as limited by what the disc can do when you only know how to throw one way.

Disc selection becomes a lot easier, too. Choosing the wrong beatness of Eagle might only mean you get a little more/less fade than you wanted. Choosing the wrong mold might mean you get more/less fade, more/less turn and more/less distance.

I don't know what the difference is between what we said... I agree 100%. Perhaps I just didn't state all the benefits like you did.