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but so are the metal props that are painted in micron 77, whereas the under hull sections also in micron 77 are pretty smooth. I can never figure this out...

Probably because the micron 77 didn't adhere to the props for more than a few miles at sea after you applied it. Finding a coating which deters fouling and adheres to fast spinning props is the holy grail of Med boating

Probably because the micron 77 didn't adhere to the props for more than a few miles at sea after you applied it. Finding a coating which deters fouling and adheres to fast spinning props is the holy grail of Med boating

Erk, I was typing too fast. I meant rudders and P brackets, not props. Have now edited

I have a discussion here with the local yard electrician who helped me with the wiring;

The H+B manual say's that I MUST connect the SS mechanism with the boat's bonding

The electrician says we may not do that, as the Hi lo mechanism has Anodes,
otherwise we would have current from the boat through the mechanism,
I don't understand his theory but he's quite convinced ...

I have a discussion here with the local yard electrician who helped me with the wiring;

The H+B manual say's that I MUST connect the SS mechanism with the boat's bonding

The electrician says we may not do that, as the Hi lo mechanism has Anodes,
otherwise we would have current from the boat through the mechanism,
I don't understand his theory but he's quite convinced ...

who can give advice with the correct theory ?
thanks in advance

If the H+B unit is absolutely not connected to the boat's other immersed metals inside the hull, and if it is itself made from just one metal, you do not need to bond it. It can survive with its own independent anodes, of which it has several. But if it becomes connected to the boat's systems, eg (i) a pool of bilgewater connects the lowest mounting nuts to the P brackets, and/or (ii) the port side proximity switch earth becomes earthed to the boat'ss earth (by interlock with engine start, for example) then it should be connected to the boat's bonding system.

Due to item (ii), I would always bond it to the boat's anodes and general earth. That's the H+B recommendation too. Mine is bonded and I have no corrosion/electrolysis problems.

The "current through the mechnism" tells me he doesn't fully understand. There is nothing wrong with current through the mechanism (and we are talking micro currents of course). If there are dissimilar metals in a couple there will always be currents, but it is better to transmit them through heavy grounding wires (with no resistance losses) than through the electrical connections of the proximity switch

a pool of bilgewater connects the lowest mounting nuts to the P brackets

looking at the pics, I could have a lot more bilge water before it touches the lowest mounting nuts, and I hope I never will
but agree the principle and will bond my systems as also adviced by H+B

Originally Posted by jfm

the port side proximity switch earth becomes earthed

what do you mean by that ?
is this a switch on the Hi lo mechanism ?
anyway, mine doesn't have that, works completely hydraulic

Originally Posted by jfm

The "current through the mechnism" tells me he doesn't fully understand.

In his defense, there might be a wrong interpretation from the translator Ital to French
He works also for Canados, and they don't connect the hi lo system to ground (which I can understand and accept now)

what do you mean by that ?
is this a switch on the Hi lo mechanism ?
anyway, mine doesn't have that, works completely hydraulic

Mine has a proximity switch that senses if the platform is fully up or not. If it is not fully up, you cannot start the boat's main engines (though, there is a key override in case of emergency). Likewise, if the boat's engines are running, you cannot lower the platform becuase the hydraulic pack is disabled. To achieve this there is a proximity switch on the platform mechanism wired into the boat's main electrical systems (green thing on picture below)

For the hi lo platform fetishists,
Here some more pics, just to have them all together for future recovery

Also from the inside:
apologies for the dirt and untidy-ness,
utility-room floor plates have to be put in place;
remember we are reaching the end of a big rebuild project, one week left for ao sanding the teak, and cleaning.

These (removeable) steps to the transom door are in front of the hydraulic pump and valves

I'm pleased to report that the mounting is very stiff,
If one jumps on the edge of the platform, you can’t see any movement of the transom on the inside. It’s a Canados remember ;-)

The mounting went really nice,
There is a small curvation in the transom surface where the system is fixed,
We measured this and gave the dimensions to H+K, they made a drawing and designed the custem C70 extensions, with a mirrord wedge of 4°

After mounting the system we had only 10mm width difference between base, and the end of the two platform arms, which I believe is very good. and was confirmed by H+K

we didn't need to move the generator exhausts, nor any other outlet.
gen cooling water and exhausts gasses might flush over the mechanism,
but will leave this for now, might change in the future if really needed.

Mine has a proximity switch that senses if the platform is fully up or not. If it is not fully up, you cannot start the boat's main engines (though, there is a key override in case of emergency). Likewise, if the boat's engines are running, you cannot lower the platform becuase the hydraulic pack is disabled.

thats a Fairline special I think, We have'nt got that.
we might want to run the engine when the platform is down, (divers recovery)
but a warning light is usefull then,
so might add such a switch to the whish list for later.

on the other hand
there is a reassuring "Klak- klak" sound, when the safety hooks lock, thought
but I'm not sure if you can hear that when the engines are running.

Yup, that is a reassuring sound. Design of that lock mechanism and the little cylinders that lift the locks is very neat. You can see why H+B is the market leader and I'm glad you got their hardware on your fabulous Canados 74s :-)