Have a 3 slide door refrig-freezer. Quit working, threw the breaker switch. I pulled the electrical box cover and capacitor was blown. Replaced capacitor, started up again and within 3 minutes quit working again, threw the breaker again. Heard a few 'clicks.' If I check compressor with Ohm meter, what should I read to know the compressor's still good?

Yep, the compressor failed that test. Thanks so much for your help. Wish I could re-rate this, you did answer my question!!Yep, the compressor failed that test. Thanks so much for your help. Wish I could re-rate this, you did answer my question!!

We need to find out if the compressor has had a burn out first. If you have an ohm meter and a few minutes we will know. Let me know, I hope not, but let me know if you want me to tell you how to test it, Sea Breeze

Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective.

Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks for the rate, Sea BreezeUnplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective.
Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks for the rate, Sea Breeze

1 Suggested Answer

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.goodluck!

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Related Questions:

Check your electrical supply. Try plugging something in the receptacle the compressor is plugged into. If that does not work then start going back to the electrical supply box. If its plugged into a GFI maybe the GFI needs resetting. If not then check your main box and see if you have blown a fuse or circuit breaker. Sometimes when compressors start up cold they pull a lot of hydro.

maybe you have incidentally disconnect the lines wire thats connect to blower, or you have blown fuse line in to blower.. check all the wires unconnected. or when the fuse blown! replace a new one fuse with same rating!

Appears to be a short in tank circuit probably cause by a water leak in tank. These usually wear a rusty hole in the tank inside the cover and are not seen unless the thermostat covers are taken off. I would remove them and do a visual thoroughly. Anytime a fuse blows or a breaker trips is always a dead short unless you have a bad breaker. I would check those as well for vibrating, chattering noises, and/or smoking. If any of this persist, replace breaker. A melted heat element could trip them, but not usually for it leaves an open circuit instead of a shorted one.

Locate the fuse panel just to the left of your steering wheel, facing the driver's side door.

2
Open the panel by pulling the
cover outward. Look at the fuse listing on the inside panel of the fuse
box to identify the location of the fuse you wish to replace. The
location and amperage of each fuse varies slightly between all Ford
Explorer models, so it's important to check the corresponding number
listed on the inside fuse panel.

3
Use the fuse puller in the fuse
box and carefully remove the fuse for the electrical malfunction you're
experiencing. Examine the fuse to see if it's blown, represented by a
burned-out wire. Compare it to another fuse that works if you're are
unsure.

4
Discard the blown fuse and
replace it with one of the same amperage. The amperage for each fuse is
listed on the inside cover of the fuse box.

5
Replace the fuse puller and cover the fuse box. Start your Ford Explorer and check to see that the electrical issue is resolved.

How To Replace the Compressor Relay
The compressor relay is accessed from the
lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay
is located in the terminal box which on the side of the compressor.Before replacing the compressor relay, unplug the refrigerator to avoid
an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor, it
must be discharged.The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box.
The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.

Beneath
the terminal cover is found the compressor relay (labeled "A" below),
overload protector (labeled "B") and the electrical terminals of the
compressor motor.

Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor.

Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected
with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the
wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Inspect the connector for corrosion. If it is corroded it should be cleaned or replaced
Reattach the wire to the new compressor relay and press the relay
back onto the compressor terminals. Replace the terminal cover box and
plug in the refrigerator.

I also have the PSCF5RGXAFBB, it quit working completely. Mother Board and Evap fan replaced 2 times. Had 5 appointments with repairman. They finally decided it was a Sealed System Leak - covered by warranty.

First thing to do is to find your electrical panel box. You will have fuses or breakers. Locate the one that is associated with your range. If you have fuses it will be at least a 30 amp. If it is dark in the glass viewer, change it out with a new one. If you have breakers, find the correct one by the list that the installing electrician wrote on the inside of the panel box cover lid. Once located move the breaker switch to the right very firmly. Then flip the switch back to the left, you will hear a definate sound to indicate that you have switched the breaker on. If the switch stays in place and is not thrown back to the middle or right, go turn your oven on. If it threw the switch you have a short of some kind, I recommend calling an electrician or an appliance repairman at that point.

Door switch
The door switch is important because, if it's defective, the dishwasher won't work at all. To reach it, you need to remove the control panel cover, or sometimes the interior liner of the door. If it's defective, you need to completely replace it.

Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dishwasher, burns and breaks the connection. If that's the problem, the wires must be repaired/replaced as necessary. If that's not the problem, check the wiring to the door switch, the wiring between the door and the lower part of the dishwasher, and the wiring to the timer. Repair any broken, burned, brittle, or defective wiring, using the proper appliance-grade wire and connectors.

Timer or selector switch
Although it's uncommon, the timer or the selector switch may be defective. If so, you need to replace the defective part, because neither of these can be repaired.

I have had the same issues. I have owned my LFX25960 for 18 months. All the cooling, noise, and condensation problems are related to 2 fans. One for the freezer/refrigerator compartments and One for the Ice Maker. The fans, apparently, are not sufficient to move enough air through the coils located behind a plastic panel in the freezer compartment. The part numbers for my fans are 1. Ice Maker 4681JB1029E and Refrig/Freezer 4681JK1004E. It is not impossible, but fairly difficult to replace them yourself. You have to remove the large slide out freezer drawer and glides. Then work the back freezer panel loose from the bottom. Be careful not to break it. It is plastic.
Routine maintenance: Pull the refrig out from the wall and blow-out the coils and fan located on the lower right rear. You might find it easier to do this by removing the cover on the lower, back of the refrig.

this isnt an electric heater in between the doors its a hot gas loop. there is a motor behind the refrig that cools the comp and condenser coils this fan is either not working or something has jammed it up. just pull the refig away from the wall remove the compartmnet cover and check that fan out good luck peyton