Description

This nebulous route starts to the left of the Perfidious seam and climbs past a variety of bolts (the old guide says three; I remember at least five). Loose rock at the start gives way to strange, overhanging face climbing to a difficult slabby corner section. A loose flake hangs down atop this section like a huge dagger: It must be climbed but if possible, gear placement should be avoided until the next bolt can be reached (runout). The flake might prompt an R/X rating because it's pretty much a requirement to jam or lieback past it. The noise of bats from underneath the flake was somewhat disconcerting as well. After this section, slab climbing leads past the Perfidious anchor towards the large overhang, under which bats and owls nest. Urine and feces are in abundance under the roof. This section is slightly beguiling: either climb straight over the guano-stained overhang (as indicated in the guide) or, as I did, traverse left under the roof, being careful not to slip on the decades of effluvium caked on the rock, until it's possible to join Disco Sucks (.10c). I traversed left until rope drag rendered further movement impossible and belayed in an uncomfortable stance in a corner. Finding a way through the roof to the bolted anchor above might be a better option, and splitting the climb into two pitches would help with the problem of rope drag. Loose rock and excrement make this climb an exciting if not dangerous venture, but the climbing through the first part is still quirky and enjoyable.

A far better way to end this climb is at the Perfidious anchor, which, after the free ascent, is now two modern bolts with chains. If you want a somewhat unpleasant adventure, continue onwards.

Location

Approach as for Perfidious via a fifth class scramble and ledge walk. Look for copious amounts of bat guano at the base and you'll know you're in the right place.

Protection

If you're doing the whole pitch, take a full rack to four inches, including doubles and many long slings. Otherwise a selection of quickdraws, sling, and nuts/cams to 2" will suffice for the short version. No belay anchor unless you're able to finish the pitch directly through the roof. In any case, a rappel can be made from an anchor at the top, situated a plumb line above the new Perfidious anchor. Rappel again from the top of Perfidious. Wear a helmet and make sure no one is below! A cam or two (smallish) are needed for the belay anchor at the base; a quarter inch bolt helps "protect" a move to start the climb/reach a suitable anchor location. Also, bees swarmed the crack below the initial belay the year we were up there (2006?); plan accordingly.