Electrical problem, battery drain.

2002 ferrari modena 360. the battery drains after a week. i traced the problem to the electric window circuit. with the window fuses in the battery drain is .22 amps. without the fuses its 0 amps . this is with out any key in the ignition, any thoughts.
thanks ken

12mA drain from battery traced to red white wire on main fuse box in engine compartment. where does the wire go to?12mA drain from battery traced to red white wire on main fuse box in engine compartment. where does the wire go to?

Try to isolate the problem. If the current flow is between the fuse block and the window switch you may be grounding somewhere between. Next check the window switch. If there is current flow across the switch when not being used, replace the switch. There should be no current at the window motor until the switch is engaged. On the other hand, you could just buy one of those solar powered battery chargers for about $40 to keep the battery up and not worry about it until something fails.

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Hello and welcome to Fixya!As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you remove the positive batter connector and let it sit for atleast 5mins. before reconnecting it. This will reset the system and can get your vehicle back to it's normal operation.

Please do keep me posted on the progress. I'll be glad to help you out. Hope this helps and thank you for using Fixya! Have a good one!

Oh how I wish I had such a problem. You should jump start it and let it run or drive it for a half an hour or so then park it and see if it starts again in the morning. If the battery is dead again you probably need to go ahead and replace it.

The label on the expansion calls for Glyco Shell coolant.
I have a stable of european vehicles each one asks for their own antifreeze type. I fill everyone of them with regular coolant. Buy extended life coolant labeled as compatible with all types, which is readily available.

Ferrari recommends checking level with engine at operating temperature You cannot use coolant temperature as engine oil temperature takes longer therfeore use oil temperature gauge (150-160 F) as reference. Check oil dipstick in oil accumulator. I find this difficult as some amount of oil foaming makes it difficult to determine level. I get the temp up stop engine then immediately check level. Warning, if you over fill you will end up with burn off when starting which results in a big blue cloud at startup and possible fouling of the catalytic converter.

Changing oil involves removing the posterior underbody aerodynamic panel 2 giant Hex bolts. Oil filter top of engine. Difficult access as engine subframe gets in the way , I use a rubber strap wrench works well
Buy your filters from T.Rutlands, get on their E- mail. lists as they have sales on filters on other items.

possibly heater hoses or engine coolant hoses get them looked at A>S>A>P as your repair billcould be horrendous,check that the clamps are tight should be straightfoward fix,get any knowledgable friend to look for the answer if youre not sure dont drive it tillits fixed or youll cook the engine

Correct, the battery is in the passenger footwell under the aluminum plate. It is perfectly fine to charge the battery here, but it is not recommended to jump start. Also, it is possible to get in the trunk without having power. There is an emergency release pull tab under the drivers side dash. Quite easy to use, actually I normally use this in lieu of the normal electric release.

About 11 MPG. I had to convert KM to Miles. Of course this is for "highway" driving without a lot of stops and starts. I didn't find any information on city driving, but I would guess that it would be around 8 MPG.