Hungarian Wine

Hungarian wine has ancient origins, dating back to at least the 5th century, when the Romans occupied the land then known as Pannonia. The Huns, the Magyars, and other tribes who migrated into the country had a “Blood Treaty” ritual, dripping blood into wine and drinking it to seal pacts. Since the Romans had already done the work setting up the vineyards, the tribes could spend their time more wisely with the conquering and the pillaging. The 13th century Mongolian invasion laid waste to much of the cultivated land. King Bela IV brought peace to Hungary, and made it a priority to rebuild the vineyards, inviting people from other countries to bring in vines and grow a diverse wine culture. The towns Sopron and Eger became known for their high quality wines which were exported throughout Europe by the end of his rule in 1270, and Hungarian kings continued to emphasize wine production through various edicts. By the time of the 15th century rule of King Matthias Corvinus, Hungary had developed Read more »

Hungarian wine has ancient origins, dating back to at least the 5th century, when the Romans occupied the land then known as Pannonia. The Huns, the Magyars, and other tribes who migrated into the country had a “Blood Treaty” ritual, dripping blood into wine and drinking it to seal pacts. Since the Romans had already done the work setting up the vineyards, the tribes could spend their time more wisely with the conquering and the pillaging. The 13th century Mongolian invasion laid waste to much of the cultivated land. King Bela IV brought peace to Hungary, and made it a priority to rebuild the vineyards, inviting people from other countries to bring in vines and grow a diverse wine culture. The towns Sopron and Eger became known for their high quality wines which were exported throughout Europe by the end of his rule in 1270, and Hungarian kings continued to emphasize wine production through various edicts. By the time of the 15th century rule of King Matthias Corvinus, Hungary had developed into a flourishing source of wines, and Tokaj is first mentioned in written history.

Wine production suffered for a time when Hungary was under Turkish rule into the 17th century, with strict Muslim law forbidding alcohol consumption. Only a few small districts were able to continue, but always looking over their collective shoulders. In the 1630s, the serendipitous discovery of the condition known as Botrytis cinerea, or “noble rot” happened, as legend tells it, when a vineyard was temporarily abandoned during the harvest for fear of Turkish invaders. When the vintner returned, he discovered the condition on the grapes, but pressed the wine anyway, with delicious results. By the end of the 17th century (and the end of Ottoman rule), the wine became such an international success that Hungarian Prince Rakoczi was compelled to classify the vineyard sites. Also under this “vine law,” rules were established for vine training, irrigation techniques, and cultivation practices.

The Phylloxera crisis was a devastasting blow to Hungary, as it was to much of the world. Many of the traditional grapes died, and once replanting efforts went into effect, many of these were forsaken for more trendy and easier to grow grapes such as Bordeaux varietals (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc), Blaufrankisch (here called Kékfrankos), and Zweigelt for reds. White wines were mostly limited to the Tokaj varietals Muscat, Furmint, and Hárslevelű. Vineyards were once again destroyed during the World Wars, and during the age of Communism, wine production became hasty and industrial at best. It wasn’t until the late 1980s that producers once again turned to higher quality and working with traditional Hungarian varietals.

By far, the most famous wine from Hungary today is still Tokaj, which is its own region within Tokaj-Hegyalja in the northeast of the country. Tokaj Aszu, produced from the botrytised trifecta of white grapes mentioned above, is a prized sweet wine with intense richness and aromatics. These wines are labeled in degrees of sweetness and concentration measured in “puttonyos” from four to six. Some of the highest puttonyos Tokaj wines have been known to last decades. Essencia is the highest quality Tokaj, and the most expensive, produced from the precious viscous juice from dried grapes. It can only be produced in very small quantities.

Egri Bikavér is the red wine known as “Bull’s Blood.” It’s is produced all over Hungary, though the best are considered to be from Eger, in the northeast. This is a blend of Hungarian traditional and European international grapes Kadarko, Kékfrankos, Blauburger, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zweigelt, Merlot, and sometimes Syrah and Pinot Noir. The name supposedly comes from the Turks, who considered the locals in Eger so repugnant that they must have the blood of bulls. The name obviously stuck proudly, with a robust wine beloved by generations.

Other traditional grapes found in Hungary are for whites Olasrizling (Welschriesling), Leankya, and the hybrids Irsay Olver, Zefir and Zenit, among many others. Besides the grapes found in Egri Bikavér mentioned above, the most widely planted red grape is Kékoporto (Portugeiser).

There are now 22 official wine regions within Hungary, all of which are scattered around the country save for the land farthest east. Wines are produced in every style from dry whites and reds, rosés, sparkling, and sweet. Winemakers produce traditional styles alongside those who have embraced modern techniques, with organic and sustainable practices.

Hungary's dolce vita just got a whole lot more dolce.
The eastern European country's Tokaji wine region, known for its sweet wines, received a 330 million euro grant via the Hungarian government and the European Union to bolster the region's vineyards...

Tokaj, Maule, Yarra and Georgia.
They may not sound like much now, but a recent article by Bloomberg reporter Elin McCoy suggest that these three wine regions are among eight regions will be part of a new generation of “it” wine producers.

The Groot Constantia wine estate is a long way from France.
That didn’t stop the winery from sending shock waves from Europe to Africa when it was announced the estate’s 2013 Chardonnay won the title of world’s best Chardonnay at the 22nd annual Chard...

It’s time to stop playing it safe with your local gnosh-spot wine list.
Earlier today, United Kingdom-based newspaper The Guardian featured the insights and opinions of sommelier Zeren Wilson, who gave readers heaps of good advice on how to look like ...

While the wine lists of today are California- and Europe-heavy, the wine lists of tomorrow may not follow the same tune.
Wines from around the world – and from places you might have never heard of – may very well be the quaffers you’ll find on your n...

France's Champagne region is looking to end the champagne debate once and for all.
The region, whose name is used by countless sparkling wine producers who do not produce their wines in Champagne, is looking forward to their July 2015 meeting with the...

Crown gall disease, an ailment which produces cauliflower-like tumors on the roots of grapevines, may be nearing its end.
A team of researchers at the Rochester Institute of Technology (N.Y.) is nearing the completion of the microbiome, or genetic blu...

Global warming, consumer tastes and Old World versus New World philosophy have all played a part in the popularity of certain varietals with vignerons over the past 10 years, according to a study titled “Changing Varietal Distinctiveness of the World's...

Everyone loves an excuse to celebrate, and nothing punctuates a celebration better than a Champagne cork firing from its bottle. In both image and price, Champagne has been often seen as juice for the rich and famous. So how are the rest of us suppose...

Few things better represent the art of winemaking more than the image of oak wine barrel racks inside a picturesque château, as they lovingly age the sweet juices that will one day be poured into our glasses. It’s an Old World image that reminds us to ...

Ruby red in color with just a hint of rust at the edges. Blackberry and cassis on the nose. Smells like a classic old world Cabernet/Bordeaux. On the palate, you get blackberry and cassis again, but with an overriding and dominant dark black cherry fla...

Another one from the Jubliation 90's under $20 racks. A beautiful pale, pale gold color. Opens with a bit of muskiness, wind over grass, and wood. Full in the mouth, medium acidity. Medium Dry with a long finish. To me, very similar to an unoaked Frenc...

Sweet hazelnuts on the nose with molasses and treacle. Beautiful golden caramel color. Intensely sweet, but with good acidity so it stays nicely balanced, and even fresh at times. Warm, rich caramel flavors, butterscotch and red apple notes. There's a ...

The Szent Gyorgy-hill is one of the oldest wine region in Hungary on the Northern shores of Balaton. Here the production of Pinot Gris is traditional since the 17 -18th centuries. Its characteristic fragrance iswell preserved within this acid-rich, ful...

Chef De Carlo’s recipe for gnocchi is fantastic with the heady Wild Boar Ragu , but is equally delicious with a simple tomato sauce or a sage brown butter sauce .
What to buy: While we tested th... Read more »

Nice rant D!The other thing to keep in mind is that it truly is possible to ... Chile, South Africa, Austria/Hungary, New York, Michigan, Spain, Argentina, and I'm going to see about Mexico in the near future.The problem is that it can't make great or even good wine in EVERY part of those regions.And I'm 100 pct with you on the trendies. But i...
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Well DV, the part I liked was where you put duct tape on the bottles. That ... ... Brunello, Blaufrankisch from Hungary and a Cab from Veneto and finisned a 1/2 bottle of Chardonnay. That was for 4 people. Night before it was another Champagne, 97 Napa Cab, another Brunello, Australian Chardonnay, CdP, and some other tasty Italian thing that I...
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Very neutral on the nose. I detect practically nothing. Light on the tonguesome stone fruit flavors but almost undetectable. Some fruit returns at the back of the palate. In between there is almost a saline taste. Very light bodied. If it had a bit more acid, I would, at least, call it refreshing. Not an expensive wine. So, there is no...
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Wine review
by
EMark

May 2015

Lefty - we all grow and learn. I didn't buy any whites for many years and ... ... 1998 or so when I was in Hungary I drank almost exclusively whites and wrote tasting notes and paid attention and realized that I was missing out on a lot.About three years ago for some reason I decided to try an American Chardonnay. Hadn't bothered with those fo...
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Greg, if you do the Furmint v. Chenin test, I want to be there. I like my ... ... I'd love to go to Hungary with the GregT passport--probably right up there with the Langhe with GdP's blessing.Trousseau does hit me as one of those slightly generic light reds--Frappato is in the same ballpark, but has more potential for interest. Still, with ...
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Had the pleasure to taste with GregT in San Diego yesterday evening. I had the ... Greg brought a shiner from Hungary/Tokaj of the 2013 vintage, and I'm already interested in helping import the stuff, whether it be a case for me on my next trip or something bigger.These CdlR's are not worth the price of admission. However, it made for a fun si...
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EM, we're about 2 years from retirement, the kids are out of college with ... adventure when we retire and Hungary came up in the discussion. We'd love to hear all about your trip after you get back. We purchased that dry furmint at a local wine store here in Charlotte. I paid $23 for that bottle and would do so again. Your best bet to find ...
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Very interesting Tokaji Furmint Sec. Normally these grapes are used to produce an awesome sweet dessert wine so when I saw this dry version I had to try it. On the nose is a nice blast of something floral, akin to honeysuckle. The palate is loaded with ripe pear, honey, mandarin orange and a touch of lemon pith. There is a bit of a mouthcoating ...
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Hi. I am a new member of Smooth, and I am located in the EU, not far from Hungary, so I think I can offer you my experience in this issue. In november 2013 "Meraviglioso2" asked about the pharmaceutically effects of the Hungarian wines, especially of a Pinot Noir from a pharmacy. I do not think that Hungarian wines are more effective in the ther...