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CSF24DBG Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for CSF24DBG parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

would not "dump" ice cubes

I am more than 80 yrs, always thought I could fix just about everything--but, this looked complicated. Once I received the new icemaker; took a good look where the screw-holes, etc. were, then removed the "old" one. Took about 20 or 30 minutes, then the "new" one was easily installed.

The girlfriend opened the door and then it wouldn't shut on its own or stay closed

Empty door first then take a phillip heads screw driver and unscrewed the top hinge cover 1 screw. Then used 5/16 nut driver to loosen top hinge from fridge. remove door by lifting and then lay on table to replace the lower washer that is held in by 2 screws and you only need to loosen one all the way leaving one in to align then replace and tighten it up your done.

Refrigerator Door Won't Self-Close

First off, Parts Select has a great YouTube video showing exactly how to replace this refrigerator hinge cam. This repair was for my sister's 20-year old GE refrigerator. I used to do this same repair every 3 years on an expensive fridge my wife and I owned - one that had additional wood panels mounted on the door. The panels exceeded the hinges' designed weight limit, so every 3 years I replaced the bottom plastic hinge cams. On that fridge, I could replace BOTH interlocking hinge cams - one pair on each door. On my sister's fridge, the bottom cam of the pair appeared to be riveted onto the frame - rendering it impossible to replace. You may be able to replace both interlocking cams or only the top half cam. You won't know until you lift the door off and look. The bottom cam sits at a 90 degree angle to the door cam and it remains attached to the bottom frame of the refrigerator. These are easy to replace and their design is ingenious. The job is simple and well worth tackling if only to see how your door works. My sister's bottom cam was worn out, but not broken. The blessing: replacing the top half of that cam - the part attached to the bottom of the door - allowed the door to open and close LIKE NEW! The door worked perfectly and I'm thankful to Parts Select for having the hard-to-find cam and for shipping it overnight to me while visiting my sister in Ohio. Now her 20 year old refrigerator door closes on its own, tight as a drum, as if it was brand new. To be safe, I ordered (2) pieces - the matching top and bottom of the pair - but due to the rivet, could only replace one cam. The original $3 "fiber" shim was still good, but I replaced it anyway. I recommend taking cell phone photographs as you go so you know exactly how to re-assemble the three or four interlocking parts of the hinge. I referred to my photos as I re-assembled the new cam. Clearing items off the fridge door: 10 minutes. Removing the shelves, unscrewing the top and lifting the door to the counter: 10 Minutes. Disassembling the hinge, cleaning the area and reassembling the cam/hinge: 20 Minutes. Cleaning the bottom cam area of the Fridge mount and re-mounting the door: 10 Minutes.

Ordered part on line, arrived the next day. Looked at the screw (phillips head). Had trouble dropping screws but got our magnetic phillips head and it worked like a charm. So proud of myself as my husband did not have to do a thing.

Naturally you have to push the frig from the wall and unplug it form the wall outlet and while you are removing and installing the old motor and installing the new motor. Do not open any of the frig and freezer door untill you are finished and you plug the power cord back into the wall outlet. Remove the lower back panel with a screw driver or a 5/16th hex driver. It is a kind of carboard. Once all the screws are out of that panel pull the top out from behind the steel above and then pull it out from the bottom and set it aside. Unplug the power line off of the motor. There are 3 separate brakets holding the motor in place. 1st remove the fan from the motor by romving the finger nut off the motor shaft and then remove the 1st bracket screw from the bracket all the way. Then use a light to see the other 2 screws and you will see that you do not have to take them all the way out like the first one. Just loosen the other 2 and then turn the motor and brackets counter clockwise and then pull the motor and brackets all out as one from the right hand side of where the brackets were mounted. I took the motor and brackets to the counter and removed te brackets from the motor and installed them to the new motor making sure that the bracket with the one screw hole in it is mounted at the right place so that when you reenstall the motor and brackets will let the motor wire connector be the closest to the outside where you can replug the power cord back onto the motor. Install the fan onto the new motor with the new finger nut that comes with the new motor. replace the back panel and pkug in the power cord fot the frig and let it run. Mine ran a lot quieter after the new motor was plugged in. Have fun if you have to do it. It is worth it.

A few small ice cubes in an empty try on return from vacation

Look at various pertenant DYI articles and videos on the internet. Replaced water filter with bypass plug. Checked water flow to icemaker water solenoid. Ran icemaker diagnostic test which failed. Ordered replacement. On receipt of replacement, began replacement work. To wit: Pulled fiidge from wall and unplugged. (Not necessary to shut water off.) Removed small freezer basket. Unloaded main freezer basket, removed it then removed the freezer door. (A screw on each side bolts the door rail of the chassis slide to the freezer chassis slide.) Loosened screws on rear, top of partition between icemaker and small freezer basket. Pushed up on partition front and popped out U-bar supporting partition bottom being carefull not to bend it. Removed same. Removed screws from partition and set aside. Removed grilled "thingy" between rear of icemaker and partition. Now have access to icemaker screws. Loosened the screws, pushed up and out and carefully let it hang by it's connector. Fiddled with the connector locking tabs and finally got it loose. Compared old and new icemaker. Have to keep the old water funnel. The new wiring harness was stiff and the connector had a different orientation. Twisted both the wiring harness and connector to align connector while the icemaker hung by it's cable being careful not to let the icemaer slip and fall to the bottom. After much fiddling, got the connector inserted and locked. Set icemaker over the two screws, pulled it down and tightend the screws. Put the old funnel into the new unit being very careful to get it right the first time. Put grilled "thingy and the partition and U-bar back in, put door back on, put the ice cube bin back, freezer drawers bac and reloaded the frozen food, plugged fridge in. Done! Time to replace icemaker was about 20 minutes and another 2 hours to do the rest ofthe work. Still required only a nutdriver and phillips.