How Designers Are Using Model Castings to Send a Political Message

The spirit of protest that ran through New York Fashion Week was evident in everything from the slogans that adorned the clothes to the music that played in the background, so it’s only natural that designers would infuse their casts with that same energy. While diversity has been a touchstone throughout the season, casting directors occasionally utilized inclusive model lineups as a means of underscoring themes of political dissent. At Gypsy Sport, the designer Rio Uribe began his show with a heartfelt speech dedicated to the urban homeless before sending a series of attractive outsiders of varying backgrounds down his runway. Public School’s “Make America New York” hats played on Trump-ian imagery, but the sight of them on models like Nathaniel Dam, a son of Vietnamese immigrants, and the Russian transplant Odette Pavlova underscored the collection’s anti-discrimination message.

The most direct anti-Trump casting statement may have come from the Collina Strada designer Hillary Taymour, who filled her presentation with models who hailed from countries on the immigration ban list as well as those who shared her concerns regarding the current administration. Seeking out the models herself using a combination of traditional sources and social media scouting, Taymour aimed to feature people who didn’t just look great, but also were politically active. Getting the lineup right took time. “I first tried to cast only models from Trump-banned countries,” said Taymor via email. “It was surprisingly difficult, however, from there we started with selecting a wide range of models with different ethnic backgrounds, beliefs, ideologies, [all of whom] are fearful of the consequences during this presidential term.”

Casting with politics in mind isn’t a new concept for Taymour, who has in the past dedicated shows to the Black Lives Matter movement and gender fluidity, but the results of the election created a new sense of urgency. “As a second-generation Middle Eastern immigrant woman, who has had two abortions, and is known to date both genders, the Trump administration has opened my eyes to take action,” she said. Like many in fashion, Taymour is certain we’re going to see plenty more civil rights–focused shows in the months to come. “This season you will see more and more designers taking a political stance,” said Taymour, who cited Demna Gvasalia’s Bernie Sanders–themed Balenciaga collection and By Robert James’s protest-themed menswear show as examples of collections that delivered fashion with a message. “We are in a crucial state of change right now and the more we [do, the more we] can impact others to take action.”