Nordica: Seltún + Gunnuhver

The geothermal fields were otherworldly, volatile, and apocalyptic - with soil and mud ranging from white to blue to bright yellow and red, bubbling, boiling, and steaming. The air was thick, and the smell of sulphur overpowering. We tiptoed across the vents and hiked further up and over a moss-covered hill until we were nearly able to see to the coast.