Need some advice on a powder measure

When I bought my LEE single stage kit I knew that the powder measure wasn't going to be the greatest. SO....I am looking at upgrading my powder measure. I am reloading .40s&w, .223 and .308. I am using H335, CFE223, H4895 and Varget. My current P/M does just fine with Varget since it is not fine like the CFE223. But when I use the CFE223 some of the powder will spill out and end up on my work table or makes it very hard to operate the handle. I am looking at the RCBS and Hornady P/M's but not sure which one is going to work best with the powders I am using. Any input is appreciated.

I have a Lee powder measure for my Vihtavuori N140 and an RCBS that I use with Titegroup. Titegroup is like ground pepper flakes and sticks to the side of the powder measure, while the small grains of N140 empty out of the powder measure with no problems.

I have never had a problem with either powder measure. The RCBS handles the Titegroup with no problems and both seem to have similar reliability/precision capabilities. I use both so I don't have to adjust powder volume as much, and so I don't have to clean them out.

When I bought my LEE single stage kit I knew that the powder measure wasn't going to be the greatest. SO....I am looking at upgrading my powder measure. I am reloading .40s&w, .223 and .308. I am using H335, CFE223, H4895 and Varget. My current P/M does just fine with Varget since it is not fine like the CFE223. But when I use the CFE223 some of the powder will spill out and end up on my work table or makes it very hard to operate the handle. I am looking at the RCBS and Hornady P/M's but not sure which one is going to work best with the powders I am using. Any input is appreciated.

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Theres a adjustment screw on the side of your powder measurer that will reduce the tension on moving the handle have you tried that?Just trying to help

Also, regardless of brand...
If it's brand new, be sure to tear it down and wash all the parts in warm soapy water to remove all of the mold release agents and anti-rust coatings on the parts...those two things are big static builders and the powder will stick like crazy.
After that wipe it with a dryer sheet and load up the hopper with powder. Just cycle that powder through the measure a few times to deposit some of the graphite from the powder onto the parts. Helps lubricate and makes a nice film that helps drop the static level down.

An old Redding and a brand spanking new Hornady LockNLoad are what I use. Both of em static up so they need a wipedown every now and then too.
Nothing wrong with the RCBS Uniflow, Lyman55, or any of the other metal-bodied measures.

The problem I've seen with the Lee is that it's just plain built too light to get a consistent technique with...
I use a nice firm lever stroke to get consistent charges. Takes a little while to get your own system down...just load up the measure and throw & weigh charges til you find your own consistent technique.

some types of plastic and metals attract more static , the Lee does , add a heater or wet weather and it'll magnify it as well ..

the wire helps get rid of some of the static and lets the powder flow freer with less hanging to the plastic and metal..

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Thanks for the hint, Jack; I'll have to try it. I think I have a piece of wire long enough. Maybe to the sink tap? My reloading bench is in the kitchen!! It's the only room in the house with no carpet.

Thanks for all the advise and tips. I am still on the fence about a new P/M or just biting the bullet and getting a Hornady L-n-L AP. I shoot my XDm 40 a lot more than my AR and it sucks loading 1 bullet at a time. In a good day I am able to load about 50-70 but those types of days don't happen very often.

Bite on brother, the LNL is a most satisfying press, didnt want to sound off about powder measures, but the LNL comes with an outstanding pm, the price you pay for all that is included with the LNL will serve no regrets.

Most measures are better with one type of powder than another. Be it flake, extruded or spherical, and most measure are likely to choke on at least one.

Operator technique is at least as important as mechanical factors when it comes to dispensing consistent charge weights.

I have a Harrells Schuentzen , Lyman 55, Lee Perfect Powder Measure and a B&M. None are perfect with every powder I've use but each of them preform within +/- .02 for specific powders.

It is NOT always that vital to get a charge weight down to the exact tenth of a grain. It can be important in very small charges for very small cartridges, but not in most rifle rounds. Instead, what you want to achieve is ±1% of the desired charge weight or less. For a 50-grain charge, that means anything less than a half-grain either side is not only acceptable, but you probably cannot tell the difference on target.