Magical Molokai's don't-miss attractions

Published 4:00 am, Friday, April 25, 2008

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Magical Molokai's don't-miss attractions

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The Lonely Island, the Friendly Island, the Most Hawaiian Island: Molokai may have no stoplights, but it certainly has had its share of nicknames over the years. Although the Molokai Ranch — home to two of Molokai's three full-service hotels — has closed, you can still explore the island's top attractions while staying at the newly renovated Hotel Molokai, in a condo or bed-and-breakfast, or as part of a day-trip package from Maui via the Molokai Ferry. These special sites reveal the unique geography, history and culture that make all the island's nicknames appropriate.

1. Kalaupapa National Historical Park Molokai's most famous attraction is also its most tragic — and inspiring. From 1866 to 1969, this is where generations of Hawaiians and other residents afflicted with Hansen's disease (then called leprosy) were forced into isolation and desperation. Father Damien, a Belgian priest, helped care for the sick and dying here for 16 years, creating schools and gardens and building homes and churches) until he too died from the now-treatable disease in 1889; the island celebrates his arrival in 1873 with "Blessed Damien Day" on May 10.

There are three ways to reach the remote northern peninsula: by taking a dramatic mule ride down the 1,700-foot sea cliff, by hiking the steep 2.9-mile trail (guided tours available) or by flying into Kalaupapa Airport on a tour, such as the one offered by Paragon Airlines. Park access is free, but reservations are required for commercial tours, mule rides and flights. Since the number of daily visitors to the peninsula is limited, be sure to make your reservations well in advance.

2. Halawa Valley This lush enclave in East Molokai is thought to be the oldest Polynesian settlement on the island, over 1,300 years old. Its verdant landscape cradles ancient stone temples (heiau), taro patches (lo'i, some of which are undergoing restoration) and the picturesque Moaula waterfall. Since the trail to the falls crosses private property, take a guided hike offered by Molokai Fish and Dive in Kaunakakai, and learn about the history of the area as you go. (Molokai Fish and Dive also offers cruises along the island's famous sea cliffs, which boast even more breathtaking waterfalls, as well as other water and land adventures.) Or visit tiny Halawa Park, where you'll find access to swimming in Halawa Bay (exercise caution, because there's no lifeguard) and a marked trail to Hipuapua Falls.

3. Papohaku Beach Three miles of broad sand, and rarely another person in sight — that's the lure of West Molokai's signature strand. Expect to find even fewer people roaming Papohaku now that the nearby Molokai Ranch lodgings are shuttered. The beach park does come alive once a year with music, hula, food vendors and arts and crafts, during the annual Ka Hula Piko Festival. Admission is free and this year's event takes place May 15–17.

4. Coffees of Hawaii Stop by its coffee plantation in Kualapuu for a pick-me-up "Mocha Mama" — a blend of espresso, chocolate and ice cream — or let the mule-drawn wagons pick you up for an afternoon plantation tour. You can also take guided walking tours of the coffee fields or a self-guided hike up Kualapuu Hill for a 360-degree view of the island. There's also a free self-guided deck tour that illuminates the history of coffee in Hawaii. (Aromas from the new roaster will tempt you to try one of several 100 percent Molokai-grown coffees.) Since the closing of Molokai Lodge, the Na Ohana Hoaloha ("Family of Aloha") have moved their Sunday night traditional music and hula show to Coffees of Hawaii, where they perform from 4 to 6 p.m. You're allowed to BYOB or keep drinking the java while you enjoy appetizers and the expression of aloha.

5. Purdy Macadamia Nut Farm Just two miles west of Kualapuu in Hoolehua is this 5-acre family farm and Hawaiian Homestead — a property that's leased to Native Hawaiians whose ancestors lost their traditional access to the land. Tuddie Purdy, who was born and raised on Molokai, and his wife, Kammy, have been operating the farm since 1980, collecting many nut recipes, facts and stories of Hawaiian culture over the years. You can try their macadamia blossom honey, attempt to crack a few nuts (you'll soon figure out why no one sells them in the shell) and "talk story." (Bonus points for knowing that macadamias originally came from Australia.)

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