The high coiffures of the early 1600s are illustrated by this 1608 portrait of Elizabeth d'Oyley by Robert Peake.

Puffed sleeves had been in fashion and would
come back, though more gracefully, not much later in the century. But
now, in 1608, sleeves are tight. This dress makes extensive use of triangular elements in the headdress, stomacher, and ruff. The bodice seems to sprout from a tabbed base on the angled wheel.

It looks like the bodice was buttoned up the front or at least made to look like it was.