tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1289465241869238552018-03-05T07:55:09.870-08:00Carrie's CrittersCarriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-59661380392267749802011-12-21T23:29:00.000-08:002011-12-21T23:29:08.722-08:00My Degus<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EogSv4XG52A/TvLZ8HBGeZI/AAAAAAAAAYo/sRRdu5oyixI/s1600/20110822222207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EogSv4XG52A/TvLZ8HBGeZI/AAAAAAAAAYo/sRRdu5oyixI/s320/20110822222207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>WOODY - &nbsp;</b>Male. Approx 2-2.5 years old when we adopted him on April 30th, 2011. He's a cute interesting little guy. Definitely entertaining. Has come out of his shell more now that he has a cage mate.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lqEEOLUMzcE/TvLaD6T93HI/AAAAAAAAAYw/dxVChX3aF_c/s1600/20111107120550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lqEEOLUMzcE/TvLaD6T93HI/AAAAAAAAAYw/dxVChX3aF_c/s320/20111107120550.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>WENDY -</b> Female. She was only a couple months old when we got her on November 7th, 2011. Very cute and semi friendly. She made friends with her cage mate quickly. Once they both had their own wheels they were content.Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-15657930962329027732011-12-21T23:17:00.000-08:002011-12-21T23:17:11.587-08:00My Dogs<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7LFUbCT2hYs/TvLNhzvE4AI/AAAAAAAAAYM/IV0qtaHweFE/s1600/20111214132636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7LFUbCT2hYs/TvLNhzvE4AI/AAAAAAAAAYM/IV0qtaHweFE/s320/20111214132636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>&nbsp;JENNA - </b>Born May 12th, 2008. AKC Purebred Yellow Lab. Got her July 12th, 2008. Came from Palmyra, Maine.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yXhwhgqTdOM/TvLNqFZPZCI/AAAAAAAAAYU/S4eYL-r30Ig/s1600/20111209104955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yXhwhgqTdOM/TvLNqFZPZCI/AAAAAAAAAYU/S4eYL-r30Ig/s320/20111209104955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>&nbsp;PEPE -</b> Born November 20th, 2009. Purebred Longhair Chihuahua. Got him on March 1st, 2010. Came from Monroe, Maine.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bwLR5vBsi10/TvLN9Q1CURI/AAAAAAAAAYc/MUywkSI2Y9A/s1600/20111213123348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bwLR5vBsi10/TvLN9Q1CURI/AAAAAAAAAYc/MUywkSI2Y9A/s320/20111213123348.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>TANGO - </b>Born November 23rd, 2010. Red nose Chocolate Brindle Pit Mix. Got him March 2nd, 2011. Came from Gainesville, Georgia.Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-39060679512507244592011-12-21T20:03:00.000-08:002011-12-21T20:03:44.871-08:00My Male Rats<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tdJYZFvx2ws/TvF5HDDkFcI/AAAAAAAAAWg/5sSzBw0smQg/s1600/BRIAN070710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="309" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tdJYZFvx2ws/TvF5HDDkFcI/AAAAAAAAAWg/5sSzBw0smQg/s320/BRIAN070710.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>BRIAN - </b>Male. Got April 5th, 2010. Brownish gray. Related to many of our rats. He came from the same feeder/breeder in Lewiston. He had a identical twin that has gone onto the rainbow bridge already. This one is semi friendly but mostly sticks with his rattie friends versus humans. Old age has really caught up to him.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Q2X0N7_Zo8/TvF5Mb1jKiI/AAAAAAAAAWo/MOBu2NKUvAs/s1600/SIMON070710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Q2X0N7_Zo8/TvF5Mb1jKiI/AAAAAAAAAWo/MOBu2NKUvAs/s320/SIMON070710.jpg" width="232" /></a></div><b>SIMON - </b>Male. Got April 26th, 2010. PEW/Siamese. The bigger bully of the trio we adopted. Also the one that has outlived them.When he was young he was going to be used as snake food. His rescued brothers and him were semi friendly but preferred ratties to humans. Now that he's gotten on in age he is not very accepting to even ratties.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ivGJgiSSC-U/TvF5SpQr9pI/AAAAAAAAAWw/NH4gVSM1dm0/s1600/COCOA070710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ivGJgiSSC-U/TvF5SpQr9pI/AAAAAAAAAWw/NH4gVSM1dm0/s320/COCOA070710.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>COCOA aka "Scoop Stealer" - </b>Male. Got June 21st, 2010. Was approx 7 months old when we got him. Tannish hooded. Friendly quirky personality. Got him from the same feeder/breeder family tree in Lewiston.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n2k62_EoAkA/TvF5VcM_0dI/AAAAAAAAAW4/7wj-ZJQ5j7k/s1600/HUNTER100310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="290" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n2k62_EoAkA/TvF5VcM_0dI/AAAAAAAAAW4/7wj-ZJQ5j7k/s320/HUNTER100310.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>HUNTER - </b>Male. Got August 2nd, 2010. Grayish and white. Almost a spitting image of his mother Gypsy. Friendly and an overall good rattie. Shares same family line with a majority of the rats, especially the males.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ozI7enR7Hlc/TvF5X3xa7UI/AAAAAAAAAXA/Qgplrnh4zAc/s1600/CHASE100310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ozI7enR7Hlc/TvF5X3xa7UI/AAAAAAAAAXA/Qgplrnh4zAc/s320/CHASE100310.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>CHASE - </b>Male. Got August 2nd, 2010. He's a litter mate and buddy of Hunter. Grayish with a tiny white dot on his forehead. His fur reminds me of a Rex. Very curious and friendly rattie.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IDHvXByawfo/TvF5b99e5II/AAAAAAAAAXI/cMI6gIqVug8/s1600/PATCHES100210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="315" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IDHvXByawfo/TvF5b99e5II/AAAAAAAAAXI/cMI6gIqVug8/s320/PATCHES100210.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>PATCHES - </b>Male. Got August 6th, 2010. Gray with white patches hence the name he came with. Several months old when we got him. Part of the family line. Believe he is the daddy to Hunter and Chase. He's a little feisty and prefers his rattie friends to humans most of the time.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8T9bPwF8EfA/TvF5zY9cTBI/AAAAAAAAAYA/iD-KnTZawvA/s1600/STUART122310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8T9bPwF8EfA/TvF5zY9cTBI/AAAAAAAAAYA/iD-KnTZawvA/s320/STUART122310.jpg" width="250" /></a></div><b>STUART LITTLE - </b>Male. Got December 22nd, 2010. PEW. He is only a few weeks older then Hunter and Chase. Most likely the father of Rizzo and the other young PEW boys. He was adopted out when he started to not like his former cage mates. He does just fine with his family of ratties now. In fact he is now getting used to humans and the biggest rattie we have.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><b><br /></b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VXOMzGb7WRk/TvF5ez9iD4I/AAAAAAAAAXQ/LFS41njnfkU/s1600/RIZZO122310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VXOMzGb7WRk/TvF5ez9iD4I/AAAAAAAAAXQ/LFS41njnfkU/s320/RIZZO122310.jpg" width="302" /></a></div><b>RIZZO - </b>Male. Got December 22nd, 2010. Brownish gray with white. One of the most friendly ratties we have. Has his mother Gypsy's personality. He's been a wonderful boy towards both rats and humans. He is the ideal example of what a pet rat is or should be.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oAbnnkySGg8/TvF5hs5d8WI/AAAAAAAAAXY/L2C1hx8zvPk/s1600/GONZO020111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oAbnnkySGg8/TvF5hs5d8WI/AAAAAAAAAXY/L2C1hx8zvPk/s400/GONZO020111.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><b>GONZO -</b> Male. Got January 31st, 2011. PEW. Shy does better with ratties then humans. Not sure but believe he and his brother are offspring of Gypsy/Stuart Little.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kUf8H13ZMf0/TvF5jjWmwaI/AAAAAAAAAXg/Fac7SWO7_d4/s1600/FOZZI020111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kUf8H13ZMf0/TvF5jjWmwaI/AAAAAAAAAXg/Fac7SWO7_d4/s320/FOZZI020111.jpg" width="261" /></a></div><b>FOZZI - </b>Male. Got January 31st, 2011. PEW. Cage and litter mate to Gonzo. Also not crazy about humans. He much prefers his small rattie family.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ETllA3Il1YQ/TvF5nK2ifyI/AAAAAAAAAXo/QSyTywpdA8g/s1600/LOKI121711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ETllA3Il1YQ/TvF5nK2ifyI/AAAAAAAAAXo/QSyTywpdA8g/s320/LOKI121711.jpg" width="302" /></a></div><b>LOKI - </b>Male. Got November 22nd, 2011. He came with his "girlfriend" Faye. He's a blue Russian Rex. No worries about him living with the girls since he's already neutered. Little shy and seems to prefer his rattie friends to humans. I can't seem to get him to bond with me but he has taken to Scott a little bit. Perhaps he just prefers males. His former family had to rehome due to allergies. Originally came from Pet Quarters in Auburn before it closed.<br /><br /><b><br /></b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DEDHTJ8WPdg/TvF5qDbKO2I/AAAAAAAAAXw/AXMZ7DhbPA0/s1600/JAX121711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><b style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></b></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DEDHTJ8WPdg/TvF5qDbKO2I/AAAAAAAAAXw/AXMZ7DhbPA0/s1600/JAX121711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DEDHTJ8WPdg/TvF5qDbKO2I/AAAAAAAAAXw/AXMZ7DhbPA0/s320/JAX121711.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>JAX -</b> Male. Got December 11th, 2011. He's the darer of the two hairless males. He is a little less shy then his brother. Seemed to bond with me quite quickly. Doesn't do too bad with other ratties. He is smaller then the other one though. &nbsp;<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nPW8HN9OnI4/TvF5s_cHX5I/AAAAAAAAAX4/OwqWkfANvY8/s1600/CHIBS121711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="299" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nPW8HN9OnI4/TvF5s_cHX5I/AAAAAAAAAX4/OwqWkfANvY8/s320/CHIBS121711.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>CHIBS -</b> Male. Got December 11th, 2011. Pinker hairless. Larger and less friendly. He is still kind of shy. Doesn't seem to mind his rattie friends. Still going to take time to get him used to humans. He and his brother came from Whitefield, Maine.Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-2142206246749408692011-12-20T21:52:00.000-08:002011-12-20T21:52:27.274-08:00My Female Rats<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16ZkdxxMr5U/TvFp40iCDLI/AAAAAAAAAV4/AD6mFTC8wxg/s1600/ROSE070710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16ZkdxxMr5U/TvFp40iCDLI/AAAAAAAAAV4/AD6mFTC8wxg/s1600/ROSE070710.jpg" /></a></div><b>BRIAR ROSE aka ROSIE - </b>Female. Got May 3rd, 2010. Cream or Tan self colored. Approx 5 wks old when adopted. Got her from a feeder breeder in Lewiston. Sweet and friendly. &nbsp;<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o6XUvwJiHXM/TvFp2g9rXdI/AAAAAAAAAVw/XGIyxlnEUVQ/s1600/PINKY070710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o6XUvwJiHXM/TvFp2g9rXdI/AAAAAAAAAVw/XGIyxlnEUVQ/s320/PINKY070710.jpg" width="281" /></a></div><b>PINKY -</b> Female. Got July 1st, 2010. Hairless, Got her from PetSmart in Augusta. Few weeks old. The friendlier one in the tank. Kind of shy but inquisitive. &nbsp;<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RfAsT6SHJK8/TvFqBtKyQ4I/AAAAAAAAAWQ/mLTdvMCWndA/s1600/GYPSY020111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RfAsT6SHJK8/TvFqBtKyQ4I/AAAAAAAAAWQ/mLTdvMCWndA/s320/GYPSY020111.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><b>GYPSY - </b>Female. Got January 31st, 2011. Brownish gray coloring with white. Retired breeder from Lewiston. Had several litters before we took her in. One of the most friendliest rats ever. Small from being too young when she had numerous back to back litters.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lXPMGs0cYGY/TvFp7SKWSqI/AAAAAAAAAWA/iidNC8qpk3M/s1600/DIAMOND031911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lXPMGs0cYGY/TvFp7SKWSqI/AAAAAAAAAWA/iidNC8qpk3M/s320/DIAMOND031911.jpg" width="254" /></a></div><b>DIAMOND -</b> Female. Got February 18th, 2011. Gray and white. She was shy when she first arrived. Now she is quite friendly and curious. Got her from a "busy" family in Washington, Maine that needed to find her a new home.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UGNrxewwF3s/TvFp-1eMFhI/AAAAAAAAAWI/xnJbU0f7rNE/s1600/FAYE121711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UGNrxewwF3s/TvFp-1eMFhI/AAAAAAAAAWI/xnJbU0f7rNE/s320/FAYE121711.jpg" width="255" /></a></div><b>FAYE - </b>Female. Got November 22nd, 2011. Himi. Retired breeder that former family got from Kennel Shop in Lewiston. They had to find her a home with the woman began having severe allergies. She's a very friendly girl. Always greeting anyone at the cage door. Loves to be petted.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xi4Le0nQBZE/TvFqEXeniBI/AAAAAAAAAWY/zQ7aF2PXdnA/s1600/LILY121911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xi4Le0nQBZE/TvFqEXeniBI/AAAAAAAAAWY/zQ7aF2PXdnA/s320/LILY121911.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>LILY -</b> Female. Got December 17th, 2011. PEW. Shy but allows petting. Former family in Auburn was needing to downsize their pets. She wasn't getting enough attention.Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-14627622455705006282011-12-20T20:22:00.000-08:002011-12-20T20:57:35.088-08:00My Bearded Dragons<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NX1yai6OduQ/TvFQ1TSV97I/AAAAAAAAAVA/H1Iw4o2ZnyM/s1600/20111214134314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NX1yai6OduQ/TvFQ1TSV97I/AAAAAAAAAVA/H1Iw4o2ZnyM/s320/20111214134314.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><b>DIVA - </b>Female Lemon Fire. Three years old. Got her at two years old. Adopted May 22nd, 2010. Missing front left leg. Former family said it was a "shedding" issue at the pet store. She's a friendly dragon. Nothing at all like her former family described her and definitely not at all like her given name. Seems she just needed a different home environment. Came from here in Maine.<br />&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3JMP5zLsE3A/TvFSDNLWNcI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/6BlLSfQdnlM/s1600/20111104161843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3JMP5zLsE3A/TvFSDNLWNcI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/6BlLSfQdnlM/s320/20111104161843.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>ARAIK -</b> Male. Hatched late summer/early fall. Got her at about five weeks on October 20th, 2010. Originally named Kiara since it was assumed he was a "she". Has several nipped toes and a nipped tail. He's a friendly guy. As he has aged and many sheds lately the coloring has really brightened. Came from West Virginia. <br /><br />Mother's Bloodlines - Peach Snowflake Hypo<br /><br />Father's Bloodlines - Florida Orange X Red/GoldXNormal X Sandfire Red Burst Red X Flaming Red Tiger.<br /><br />Grandfather (on dad's side) Florida Orange<br />Grandmother (on dad's side)&nbsp;Red/Gold X Normal X Sandfire Red Sunburst X Flaming Red Tiger<br />Great Grandfather (on dad's side) - Sand Fire RedX<br />Great Grandmother (on dad's side) - RGxNorm<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-73GuesO3QnI/TvFSe4z9c7I/AAAAAAAAAVY/g2Ms_su-vzI/s1600/20111104161959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-73GuesO3QnI/TvFSe4z9c7I/AAAAAAAAAVY/g2Ms_su-vzI/s320/20111104161959.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><b>ZAZU - </b>Female. Hatched few weeks after her cage mate. They share the same parents. Arrived January 20th, 2011.She has always been very bright in coloring. Doesn't have any nipped toes or tail. Very awesome coloring. From West Virginia.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7BWx8kCLm5M/TvFRG3zfZmI/AAAAAAAAAVI/kKOmeXdfBUY/s1600/20111004002209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7BWx8kCLm5M/TvFRG3zfZmI/AAAAAAAAAVI/kKOmeXdfBUY/s320/20111004002209.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7BWx8kCLm5M/TvFRG3zfZmI/AAAAAAAAAVI/kKOmeXdfBUY/s1600/20111004002209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7BWx8kCLm5M/TvFRG3zfZmI/AAAAAAAAAVI/kKOmeXdfBUY/s1600/20111004002209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div><b>ISIS -</b> Female. Translucent. Unsure of exact age. She's probably almost 2 years age. Arrived on January 20th, 2011. Feisty and friendly. Has a few nips but overall in excellent condition. Also came from West Virginia.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oJ9UTHwARtw/TvFSxVV6BVI/AAAAAAAAAVg/xXlOHewLqA8/s1600/20111214134803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oJ9UTHwARtw/TvFSxVV6BVI/AAAAAAAAAVg/xXlOHewLqA8/s320/20111214134803.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>OSIRIS - </b>Male. Hatched May 21st, 2011. Gold eyes wih beautiful lavender side bars. Het Hypo. Nipped tail but toes intact. Blood line is very good. HypoSnow X Snow Leather Back. From Old School Dragon Den Snow Bloodlines. Arrived from Caliente Dragons in California on December 6th, 2011. Feisty young male.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iE6m6MhLAzg/TvFTALPsbZI/AAAAAAAAAVo/sBNspL53C3A/s1600/20111214133739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iE6m6MhLAzg/TvFTALPsbZI/AAAAAAAAAVo/sBNspL53C3A/s320/20111214133739.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>ATHENA - </b>Female. Citrus X Orange. Gold eyes. Amazing colors. Hatched in August of 2011. Arrived December 11th, 2011. Very pretty dragon with a lively personality. Doesn't seem to have an nips on the toes or tail. From a young breeder here in Maine.Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-40825278366332466932011-11-27T14:47:00.000-08:002011-11-27T14:47:05.255-08:00Rabbits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybNap9jnhas/TtK9tjacLTI/AAAAAAAAAU4/GidskJ3zs50/s1600/20110418122014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybNap9jnhas/TtK9tjacLTI/AAAAAAAAAU4/GidskJ3zs50/s320/20110418122014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b><br /></b><br /><b>Introduction</b><br />Domestic rabbits (Oryctolagus cuniculus ) are descendants of the wild rabbits living in Western Europe and Northern Africa. In a rabbit’s natural environment they are completely herbivorous. This means that they eat only plant matter. In the twilight and night hours are when they most actively forage for their food. Their claws are used to help them dig and burrow into the ground for protection and shelter. Their speed and maneuverability helps them escape from their predators in the wild. Both in the wild and in captivity they are known to be successful breeders.<br /><br />Domesticated rabbits are typically docile and quiet in nature making them a popular pet. However, they do need more care then many originally think and sadly the end result is not always a happy one. Too many are drawn in by their cuteness especially when still young. Be sure that you do research before deciding if these adorable balls of fur are right for you,<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Lifespan</b><br />10 or more years.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Sexing</b><br />Can be a bit tricky on some types of rabbits. Generally it’s not until they are to the age of sexual maturity that it’s much easier to tell. With practice you can sex your rabbits pretty accurately. However, even breeders make the occasional mistake. Often the females have a fold of skin that develops under the neck. This is called a dewlap. Females have slit opening where the males have cylindrical tubes. Males will have external testicles but like many small animals they can withdraw them into the body. This can make sexing younger rabbits difficult. There’s many websites out there that go into more details on how to sex correctly. If you still aren’t sure and don’t want any oops litters be sure to consult a breeder or vet that specializes in rabbits.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Multiple Rabbits</b><br />Males usually fight especially once they reach maturity. If a male has been bred it can fight to the death and kill another male if he sees them as competition. It’s generally not a good idea to house males together at all. Even ones that get along in the beginning often change later on and you’ll end up having to separate them.<br /><br />Females are generally easier to pair up and often do okay together. The bigger the cage the better so that they don’t get stressed and feel over crowded.<br />The other pairing that usually works is a neutered/spayed pair.<br /><br />Of course every rabbit is different and some prefer to live solo. Others may play well together outside of a cage but prefer not having any cage mates.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Housing&nbsp;</b><br />Many recommend that your rabbits are housed indoors. However, given the proper shelter and following certain precautions rabbits and do live well outdoors as well.<br /><br />The cage whether indoors or out should be at least as large as possible. The bigger the cage the better. Plus you’ll find you won’t have to purchase or change cages as much as they grow. There’s a debate on whether solid or wire bottom cages are better. Either type can be used. Some larger breeds tend to have issues wire cages. If you give your rabbit some solid surfaces or a good bedding this should help prevent any issues.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Supplies</b><br />Food dish - often the best the type is metal or ceramic and something heavy that won’t be easily tipped over. Many love to toss their dishes around so another way to go is the type that attach to the cage. There’s many different styles on the market these days so you can find something that works best for you and your rabbit.<br /><br />Water bottle - be sure to use either a plastic or glass water bottle. Each have their pros and cons. However, both are much safer and more practical then using a water dish. Dishes of water not only get spilled too easily but harbor germs and bacteria when food and waste get kicked into them.<br /><br />Litter box - typically this is a preference thing. Many rabbits can be litter trained. They tend to pick a corner to do their business and are usually pretty adamant about always returning to that area. You can place a litter box in their chosen corner. Many do pick up on the concept, especially younger rabbits. Owners find it makes clean up a lot easier. Time between full cage clean outs can be extended leaving you only having to maintain the litter box regularly.<br /><br />Hides - many rabbits enjoy a quiet, warm, dark place to hang out in. Many outdoor and some indoor styles provide a hutch for this purpose. You can also purchase different rabbits houses or make your own. Another handy way is using boxes and then as they get soiled or chewed up you can always replace them.<br /><br />Toys - Be sure they have something to entertain themselves. They often enjoy tossing things around, pouncing, and yes even chewing. You can get creative and make your own toys by using things around the house or check out the wide variety that many stores have now. It’s usually cheaper in the long run to find and make your own toys that way you know what your rabbits does and doesn’t like and you’re not out a ton of money on a forgotten toy.<br /><br />Chew treats - Rabbit teeth constantly grow throughout it’s life. It’s important that you provide them with items to help wear them down. You can specially made chew toys and treats. Untreated pinewood or fruit tree branches are also a good things to gnaw on.<br /><br /><b>Diet</b><br />Hay - should be their primary source of food. Unlimited amounts of timothy or Bermuda are the best choice. Though some alfalfa hay okay on occasion. Do limit the amount of alfalfa as it’s been proven to cause urinary stones.<br /><br />Mixed leafy greens - can and should be a daily food as well. At least one cup a day.<br /><br />Pellets - are best if used in addition to the hay and greens. It shouldn’t be their primary diet but is a good source of nutrition if that is all that is available.<br /><br />Fruits - Only in small amounts since the high sugar content may cause diarrhea.<br /><br />Remember always introduce new foods, especially vegetables and fruit slowly.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Safe Vegetables, Fruits &amp; Weeds</b><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />Peppermint leaves<br />Spinach<br />Banana<br />Blueberry<br />Apple (no seeds)<br />Mustard Greens<br />Grapes<br />Lemon Balm<br />Marigold<br />Watermelon<br />Honeydew Melon<br />Kiwi<br />Kohl Rabi<br />Cucumber<br />Celery<br />Lavender<br />Kale<br />Mint<br />Marjoram<br />Nettles (small dried)<br />Zucchini<br />Radish tops &amp; sprouts<br />Cilantro<br />Chard<br />Sage<br />Strawberry and leaves<br />Sweet Potato<br />Wheat Grass<br />Carrots (tops &amp; root)<br />Watercress<br />Alfalfa Sprouts<br />Cherry<br />Artichoke (Jerusalem)<br />Asian Greens<br />Caraway<br />Collard Greens<br />Turnip<br />Beetroot<br />Escarole<br />Asparagus<br />Cauliflower<br />Chickweed<br />Sow<br />Shepherds Purse<br />Silver beet<br />Parsley<br />Plum<br />Pumpkin<br />Thyme<br />Witlof<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />Papaya (no seeds)<br />Basil<br />Autumn Leaves (dry)<br />Capsicum<br />Coltsfoot<br />Dill<br />Comfrey<br />Coriander<br />Chives (moderation)<br />Chicory<br />Bok Choy<br />Broccoli<br />Clover<br />Fennel<br />Echinacea<br />Brussels Sprouts<br />Endive<br />Swede<br />Sorrel<br />Peach<br />Parsnip<br />Pineapple<br />Plantain<br />Yarrow<br />Pak Choi<br />Lettuce (dark leaf varieties)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />Blackberry (leaves, stems &amp; fruit)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />Dandelion (leaves, stem &amp; flower),<br />Raspberry (leaves, stems, fruit)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />Tomato (fruit only, leaves are toxic)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />Rose petals &amp; leaves<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Avoid</b><br />Nicotine,&nbsp;Biscuits, Salty Foods,<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Sweet Foods,<br />House Plants,&nbsp;Peas,&nbsp;Cedar Chips,&nbsp;Chocolate,<br />Avocado,&nbsp;Beans,&nbsp;Onions,<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Potatoes,&nbsp;Rhubarb,&nbsp;<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />Pesticide treated foods<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Handling</b><br />Never pick them up by the ears or neck. Also never allow them to dangle in midair. It they jerk around it can crack their spine, neck, or other bones. Always carefully support their hindquarters by sliding your hand under it’s hind legs. Then lift them up and brace them close to you with both arms. Another option is lifting it using it’s underbelly and carefully holding it that way. <br />Never chase your rabbits to catch them.<br />When you need to put your rabbit back into it’s cage herd it by walking behind it.<br />Don’t pick the rabbit up allow it to back in on it’s own.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Cleaning</b><br />Spot check the cage daily. Remove any soiled bedding or litter. Also be sure that the dishes are clean. At least weekly (depending on the rabbit’s size, how many are inhabiting the cage, and the time of year) you’ll want to clean the entire cage. Be sure to only use a safe cleaning product and be sure it’s fully rinsed and dried before returning the rabbit to the cage. Warm soapy water, vinegar water mix, or peroxide mixtures are quite popular and generally quite safe for rabbits. Use extreme caution when using anything with a bleach or ammonia base and be sure it’s rinsed very well. Like many small animals rabbits tend to be quite sensitive to strong smells.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Spay/Neuter</b><br />It’s recommended that any rabbits not being used to breed should be spayed or neutered.<br />If done properly and by vet that has experience with this procedure on small animals there’s many health benefits. Having your rabbit “fixed” may also extend it’s life as well. Males that are neutered will not “mark” their area and are usually less aggressive. Most females will also calm down as well. An unsprayed rabbit is more likely to get ovarian cancer when they are older.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Health Concerns&nbsp;</b><br />Dental Disease<br />Gastrointestinal Disease<br />Organ Disease<br />Respiratory Disease<br />Hair balls<br />Impaction<br />Diarrhea<br />Cancer<br />Obesity<br />Fly strike<br />Heat Stroke<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Intestinal blockage</b><br />Common in rabbits. They can swallow hair while they’re grooming. The best way to prevent this is regular grooming. However, if you see any of the following symptoms you should contact your vet.<br />Lack of appetite<br />change in droppings<br />runny nose<br />labored breathing<br />urinary problems<br />bloated abdomen lumps bumps<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Temperature</b><br />Rabbits can be very sensitive to heat. Be sure that the temps are less then 80 degrees. Sometimes moving them to a basement or cooler room in the house is best in the summer. They do better in cooler temps.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Warning</b><br />Antibiotics from the Penicillin family - like Amoxicillin - are TOXIC to rabbits and should be NEVER be administered.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>What your rabbit is trying to say</b><br /><br /><ul><li><b>Rabbit Noises:</b> In protest, or fear.</li><li><b>Thumping: </b>Thumps hind leg when it's either frustrated or upset about something. Perhaps it senses the presence of something foreign,</li><li><b>Sideways Hop:</b> Running at full speed, they’ll jump in midair, and slightly kick their legs out sideways. They are pleased or happy about something.&nbsp;</li><li><b>Ears Perked Up: </b>Senses something unusual.</li><li><b>Licking: </b>Will lick and gently nip you when being affectionate.</li><li><b>Humping and Nipping:</b> Annoying trait when in heat. When they’re ready to mate, they’ll start humping more than its toys, even its owners (by the way, they can be aggressive since it humps and bites hard at the same time.&nbsp;</li></ul><br /><b>Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for rabbits. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.&nbsp;</b>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-35260006313865737262011-11-26T01:15:00.000-08:002011-11-26T01:15:48.618-08:00Rats<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5u6uDWr3ygw/TtCuM2xShyI/AAAAAAAAAUw/5S-PR-Rqp2s/s1600/rat38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5u6uDWr3ygw/TtCuM2xShyI/AAAAAAAAAUw/5S-PR-Rqp2s/s1600/rat38.jpg" /></a></div><b><br /></b><br /><b>Background</b><br />The wild brown rat is a descendent of the domesticated rats you see today. They have been bred for approx one hundred years.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Lifespan&nbsp;</b><br />2.5 - 3 yrs (varies)<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Average Size</b><br />14 - 16 inches including the 7 inch tail.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Living Arrangements&nbsp;</b><br />Being social animals it’s crucial that they are housed in groups. At the very minimum they should have at least one buddy. However, it’s recommended they have several friends in their colonies. When their friends die they go through a mourning process so it’s important that they have many friends.<br /><br />The easiest pairing is usually females. Males can tend to fight unless they are introduced at a young age. Females tend to be more accepting of new rats in their colonies throughout their life. Of course this is a generalization and it can vary depending on the rats.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Gender differences</b><br />Besides the obvious physical differences they often act differently as well. Females tend to be busier and on the go all through their lives. Males tend to be calmer and more social with their humans. This varies depending on the rats and their ages but in general that is typically the main difference between the personalities.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Temperatures</b><br />Keep your rats out of drafty areas as they are prone to colds. Also extreme heat or direct sunlight should be avoided since heat stroke is can be an issue. Temps between about 60-80 is about the right range for your rat to be comfortable.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Housing</b><br />While many house their rodents in aquariums it’s recommended that cages are used. Not only does this give them better ventilation but allows them room to climb and play. The larger the house the better. You want them to have a lot of room to play and live. Also if they want alone time a bigger cage can provide that.<br /><br />It’s recommended that the flooring be solid. If you do use a cage with a wired bottom be sure to provide solid surfaces so that they can get off the wires on occasion. This helps prevent sores and other issues causes by hard surfaces under their delicate feet.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Bedding</b><br />Many different products can be used. Each have their pros and cons. The general consensus among rat owners though is NEVER use Cedar and when at all possible you should avoid Pine as well. While Pine isn’t as harmful on their lungs and doesn’t cause the burning Cedar can it can still causing breathing issues.<br /><br />Many experts recommend aspen, care fresh, or recycled paper pellets such as Yesterday’s news. Paper towels, newspaper, and flannel cloth can also be used.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Cage Accessories</b><br />You can buy products especially designed for rats, small animals, or even birds. However, it can be just as fun if you get creative and use things around your home. Not only do they enjoy it just as much but it can save you a lot of money as well.<br /><br />Boxes, flower pots, dishes, pvc or cardboard tubes can be used for awesome hiding places. No need to purchase those high priced hammocks. Get creative and make your own with flannel, towels, baby blankets, old tshirts, or whatever else you have around.<br /><br />Some rats may enjoy wheels but not all of them do. Generally it’s the females and usually when they’re young. Be sure to purchase one that is safe for your furry friends. A solid running surface without wire is best. This can help prevent a tail or foot from being caught while they’re playing on it.<br /><br />Rats love a variety of things to play with. It’s fun to experiment and see what they prefer.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Chew toys</b><br />Rats like other rodents have teeth that grow continuously throughout their lives. It’s important that they are provided with something safe to chew on. Wood that hasn’t been painted or treated, cardboard, dog biscuits, store bought rat safe chew toys are all various things you can provide.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Basic Care</b><br />Remove any uneaten food, soiled bedding, and dropping daily. At least once a week the cage should be completely cleaned out. This schedule may vary depending on what you’re using for bedding, the amount of rats, and the time of year. Different cleaners can be used but be sure they are not harmful to the rats and are completely rinsed and dried off everything before coming in contact with the animals again. It’s generally recommended that warm soapy water, vinegar with water, or peroxide mixture be used. Avoid any strong bleach or ammonia based products.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Hand taming</b><br />Generally curious and friendly by nature they usually don’t take long to trust you. However, they do need to get used to you before they’ll allow handling. You can build trust by offering them small treats. Once you’ve begun to establish trust with that move on to the next step. Begin picking them up. Be sure one hand is supporting their bottom and the other is gently holding their backside. If they are squirming and want to immediately dart back into their cage give them time. Don’t restrain them against their will but only put them back in their cage when they have calmed down. If you put them back in immediately they’ll do that each time they want back in the cage. A little trick that many do is simply walk away from the cage. They now have to rely on and trust you. Allow them time to calm down. Try the hand walking method. It almost looks as though they are running in place. They begin trusting you and often they find that to be a fun game. Eventually you shouldn’t have any problems convincing them to join you outside the cage. Often the opposite tends to happen. You’ll have problems convincing them playtime outside the cage is over. Of course every rat is different so some may or may not take to things as quickly. The key is being patient and building trust.<br /><br />Once you’re bonded you can and should provide a lot of out of cage time. Provide them with a safe area where they can play, explore, and get exercise. Be sure they’re always supervised during these out of cage playtimes. <br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Things to remember</b><br />Always move slowly when approaching your rats<br />Let them first smell you by offering the back of your hand<br />Be sure hands are washed or else they may want to sample them<br />Don’t stick your fingers through the cage as they think that’s a snack<br />Never pick a rat up by it’s tail or squeeze them<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Diet</b><br />Many rat owners use a high quality pellet known as rat blocks or “lab blocks”. There’s a few versions on the market. Be sure to look for a brand that lists a soy meal base versus corn. Dried corn and alfalfa type products are hard for rats to digest.<br /><br />The other alternative is making your own rat food mixes. There’s many websites that show how to go about doing this. You can try different methods until you know what works best for you and your rats. The advantage of making your own is not only knowing what is put in your rat’s food but you can cater it to your rat’s needs better.<br /><br />Small amounts of fresh vegetables and fruits are also recommended. Foods such as peas, broccoli, cauliflower, celery, corn on the cob, sweet peppers, carrots, fresh leafy greens, pears, strawberries, blueberries, &nbsp;bananas, apples seedless grapes, pineapple, mango, are all great things to start out with. Small amounts of melon can also e given but should be limited as they can cause diarrhea. &nbsp;You can mix it up and try various things to see what your rats favor.<br /><br />Some grains and seeds can be given as well. Oats, barley, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, millet, unsalted peanuts, shelled nuts,<br /><br />Occasionally it’s okay to share some of your “people food” with your little friends. Table scraps such as cooked pasta, chicken, mashed potato, squash, small pieces of egg, pieces of whole grain bread or pizza crust can also be given. Treats should be limited to prevent health issues especially obesity.<br /><br />Of course fresh, clean water should be provided at all times. Water bottles should be used versus bowls as they stay cleaner.<br /><br />Ceramic crock type or metal dishes are best for keeping the food. Plastic may end up being a chew toy.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Foods to avoid</b><br />Onions, Chocolate, Coffee, Tea, Soda, Lemonade, Citrus,<br />Foods with high acid, fat, or sugar content.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Symptoms of sickness</b><br />The following symptoms can indicate a problem. Be sure to contact your vet if you notice any of these.<br />Hair loss<br />Visible parasites (lice, mites, ticks, fleas etc.)<br />Sores<br />Lack of energy<br />scratching, rubbing, or chewing that causes bleeding<br />Bleeding<br />Limping or favoring their leg<br />Eyes bulging from their sockets<br />Dull eyes<br />Excessive sneezing (rats sneeze occasionally)<br />Rattling or congested sound when breathing,<br />Labored breathing<br />Red discharge from eyes or nose (pigmented secretion, not blood)<br />Reddish brown staining around the eyes<br />Head tilted to one side<br />Lack of appetite<br />Weight loss<br />Constipation or diarrhea<br />Blood in urine<br />Seizures<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for rats. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.</b>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-62374170154492272852011-11-17T22:51:00.000-08:002011-11-17T22:51:55.517-08:00Just a little note about rats<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2IO2zwg-gfI/TsX_gklRk7I/AAAAAAAAATo/Qli9gb-eWeM/s1600/Image6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2IO2zwg-gfI/TsX_gklRk7I/AAAAAAAAATo/Qli9gb-eWeM/s320/Image6.jpg" width="251" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I can still remember my feelings not long ago towards rats. I’ll admit that I was one of those “ewww rats” people. That was until I gave them a chance. My new hobby is research. Anytime I want to learn more about a breed or species my first place I go is the infamous search bar. This time was no different. I’d begun seeing a lot of advertisements on Craig’s List (another new “hobby” of mine) I wanted to know what the big deal was about this strange looking rodent.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Now I look back and wonder how I never saw them as the adorable unique creatures that they are. I regret the years I wasted and missed out on having these wonderful pets. I can’t even imagine my life without them now. Something that began as a mild interest quickly turned into an addiction.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">We have now been owned by many of these little critters. Sadly we’ve had some leave us way too soon to the “Rainbow Bridge”. As any Rat owner knows we have a limited time to enjoy all that our furry (or not so furry) friends have to offer us. We learn to enjoy each day that we are given with these amazing animals.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Sadly they are one of the most misunderstood animals out there. Looking back I admit I was one of those people that may have thought what others still think.. When many people hear the word “RAT” they think immediately of the disgusting sewer dwelling hairy things that lurk in the shadows in horror movies. Domesticated rats are not the scary possessed demons we’re led to believe they are. No they are quite the opposite. A pet rat also known as a “Fancy Rat” is a clean loving animal. They are social beings that love their cage mates and humans. A rat is most happy if they can spend their time with both. There’s a few exceptions to the rule. Sadly we had a “rescue” rat that didn’t have a good start in life. We did not give up on him. He never learned to truly trust humans and sadly just when he finally knew the companionship of his fellow species it was for a limited time. However, he’s one of those rare cases. The rest of our “Rattie Pack” love each other and their humans. Each has their own quirks and personalities. Some get along better then others. I’m sure we could say the same about any species.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Rats are smart animals that can be trained to do tricks, come to their name, and some of the less stubborn ones even learn to use a litter box. I honestly think they groom themselves (and each other) more then cats. As someone that has owned a few different types of rodents I’d say they are definitely more friendly, clean, and probably the most social. Yes Guinea Pigs are social creatures but I believe our rats top that threefold.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Before I shared a very generalized care sheet for these amazing animals I thought I’d share a little background. When I say generalized I mean just that. There are many ways to go about raising rats. When you research the internet you’ll see tons of pages with tons of information. I recommend reading up on everything you can, talk to others with rat experience, and like any animal you raise you’ll come up with ways that work best for you. Things that I do or say in this care sheet aren’t the be all end all of rat raising. In fact I’m sure some may not agree with some of it. However, it’s what works for my rats.</div>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-75672938255789115782011-11-17T18:33:00.000-08:002011-11-17T18:33:08.637-08:00Chihuahua<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div><br /></div>This was originally posted in my other blog:&nbsp; <a href="http://crazyforchis.blogspot.com/2011/08/chihahua.html">crazyforchis</a>&nbsp;<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vYhAuxBMOJQ/TsXC1_0qvlI/AAAAAAAAATQ/s-W7nZOTG6A/s1600/0044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vYhAuxBMOJQ/TsXC1_0qvlI/AAAAAAAAATQ/s-W7nZOTG6A/s200/0044.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div><br /><br />This tiny toy sized dog known for it’s brave, courageous, and proud demeanor is the smallest breed. It was named after the state of Chihuahua in Mexico.<br /><br />Chihuahuas make good companion dogs. They’re fiercely loyal and tend to become very attached to one owner. They do enjoy affection and have been known to show it in return by licking their owner’s faces.<br /><br />These lively, agile, happy, and adventurous dogs tend to be quite strong willed. It’s important that they have proper human leadership. They can be difficult to train and house break but are intelligent and learn quickly with patience. Chihuahuas respond well to proper, firm, gentle training. Positive reinforcement is key to succeeding with these stubborn souls.<br /><br />It’s important not to allow them to get away with things that you’d not allow a bigger dog to do. Many tend to allow small dogs to get away with more and baby them. An example of this is jumping up on people. It may be cute to see a tiny dog putting his little paws on your leg. However, if this is allowed you’re telling them that this dominant behavior is okay. This will lead to them thinking they’re the pack leader and that leads to behavior issues such as jealousy and aggression with others. They’ll also become suspicious of everyone but their owner. <br /><br />Chihuahuas that develop this pack leader mentality may be prone to snapping at humans, especially children. In general it’s not recommended that this breed is around children unless properly socialized. The key is to socialize these dogs well from a young age and continue throughout their lives. Just like any other breed the better socialized they are the better behaved.<br /><br />Also it’s important to give them a lot of exercise. There’s a huge misconception about small dogs. Many think that they don’t need to be walked as much. They assume that these dogs get plenty of exercise running around during the day. However, this is not true. Walks are crucial for a dog’s well being. They not only provide much needed exercise and energy release they provide mental stimulation as well. It also satisfies their natural migration instincts.<br /><br />It’s important to treat them no different then you would a larger dog. Owners that realize that their Chihuahua is no different then another sized dog will get a more appealing temperament. They need to make sure that they are the pack leader and not the dog. If this is done they are more likely to be trustworthy around others.<br /><b><br />History</b><br />The true history of this unique breed is not entirely known. There’s many theories surrounding the origin. Folklore and archaeological finds show the breed originated from Mexico. The most common and thought to be most accurate is that they descended from the Techichi, This was a companion dog of the Toltec civilization in Mexico. No records of the Techichi prior to the 9th century exist. It’s probable that ancestors of the dogs were present prior to the Mayans. Dogs much like the Chihuahua were found in materials from the Cholula Pyramids predating 1530. Also they were found in the Chichen Itza ruins on the Yucatan Peninsula. Other historians believe they came from the island of Malta in Mediterranean.<br /><br />European paintings of small dogs that resemble Chihuahuas also give possible creedence to the this theory. One of the most famous is a fresno in the Sistine Chapel by Sandro Bottcelli dated 1480-1482. The fresno, Trials of Moses shows a boy holding a tiny dog with a round head, large eyes, big ears and characteristics of the Chihuahua.<br /><br />This particular painting was finished ten years before Columbis returned from the New World. Botticelli would not have seen a Mexican dog but he depicted a dog that looked much like a Chihuahua. Reportedly in 1850 a progenitor of the breed was found in ruins near Casas Grandes. This is in the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is where the dog gets their name.<br /><br />Most artifacts relating to the existence of this breed are found around Mexico City. However, Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico in the U.S. were where they first rose to prominence. Since then they have remained consistently popular as a breed. They were first recognized by the AKC in 1904. The present day Chi is much smaller then their ancestors. This change is thought to be due to the introduction of miniaturized Chinese dogs, such as the Chinese Crested dog into the South America by the Spanish.<br /><b><br />Description and standards</b><br />Chihuahuas are known for their large dark or sometimes ruby colored eyes that are set well apart. They have large erect ears and their long sickle shaped tails either curl over their back or to the side. The beautiful short or long coat can be either wavy or flat. Solid, marked, and splashed markings can come in white, chestnut, fawn, sand, silver, sable, steel blue, black, tan, and parti color and any combo of those colors.<br /><br />Their bodies are longer then they are tall. Their heads are well rounded like an apple in shape. The muzzle is short and pointed with a well defined stop. Commonly referred to as either Apple or Deer heads. One has a short nose and rounded head similar to an apple. The other has a longer nose and elongated head. <br /><br />The breed standard doesn’t specify height only weight and a description of overall proportions. This results in varying heights. Height usually ranges from 6-10 inches. Some can grow as tall as 12-15 inches. British and American standards both state that the Chihuahua must not weigh more then 6lbs for conformation. The British standard also states the weight of 2-4lbs is preferred. In fact if two dogs are equally good in type the diminutive one is preferred. <br /><br />The Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) standard is 3.3-6.6lbs. Smaller ones are more acceptable in show rings. Pet quality often range above these weights. Some are even above 10lbs if they’ve got large bone structure or allowed to become overweight. This doesn’t mean they’re not purebred but do not meet the requirements for conformation shows. Oversized Chihuahuas can be found in both good and bad bloodlines. The standards for both long and short coats are typically identical except for coat description.<br /><br />It’s important to know that terms like Teacup, Pocket Size, Tiny Toy, Miniature, or Standard are marketing gimmicks. They’re made up to inflate a puppy’s value. These aren’t recognized by the breed standards.<br /><b><br />Coat</b><br />United Kingdom’s Kennel Club and the American Kennel Club only recognize two Chihuahua varieties. The long coat and the smooth coat also known as the short coat. Genetically they are both the same breed. Short coat doesn’t mean the hair is smooth. The hair can range from velvet touch to whiskery. Long haired Chis are smoother to the touch. They have soft fine guard hairs and downy undercoats. This gives them their fluffy appearance. Unlike many other long hair breeds Chis require no trimming and grooming is minimal. Contrary to what people may believe the long haired Chihuahuas typically shed less then the short. It can take up to two or more years before the full long haired coat develops.<br /><b><br />Colors</b><br />Chihuahuas come in many color combinations: solid, marked, or splashed. Colors can range from solid black to solid white. Spotted, Sable, and a variety of other colors and patterns can also appear in the Chihuahua breed. The colors and patterns can combine and affect one another. This can result in many variations. Most common colors are fawn, red, cream, chocolate, blue, and black. No pattern or color is considered more valuable.<br /><br />Merle is not considered part of the breed standard. In May 2007 The Kennel Club decided that any puppies with this coloration were not to be registered. This is due to the health risk of this gene. In December of that year the Breed Standard was amended so that any merle dogs were disqualified. The Federation Cynologique Internationale that represents the major kennel club of 84 countries disqualified the merle color as well. Countries like Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Germany also followed suit. However, in May 2008 the Chihuahua Club of America voted that this color wouldn’t be disqualified in the United States. It would be able to be registered and compete in AKC events. Those opposed to the coloration believe it came about by modern cross breeding with other dogs.<br /><b><br />Temperament</b><br />Choosing a Chihuahua must be done carefully. An owner’s temperament often effects the dog’s. Chis with an ill temperament can be easily provoked to attack. That makes them generally not suitable for homes with small children. This breed is known to be fiercely loyal to one owner. In some cases they even become over protective. This is especially true around other people or animals. They aren’t always able to get along with other breeds. Chihuahuas are prone to clan like nature. Often preferring the companionship of only their kind over others. Generally this makes them not recommended for children that aren’t patient and calm. These small dogs love their dens and are known to burrow into pillows, clothes, and blankets. Often they can be found under the covers or at the bottom of the bed. Deep in the dark safety of what they consider their den.<br /><b><br />Health Disorders</b><br />Expert veterinary attention is often needed in areas like birthing and dental care. They’re prone to genetic anomalies. Neurological issues such as epilepsy and seizure disorders are common. Like other toy breeds Chihuahuas are prone to the painful disease hydrocephalus. It’s diagnosed when a puppy has a an abnormally large head during the first months of<br />it’s life. Other symptoms of hydrocephalus are patchy skull plates rather than solid bone, typically lethargic, also they don’t grow at the same pace as their littermates. Veterinarians can diagnose hydrocephalus but the prognosis is not good.<br /><br />Another common issue for this breed is moleras. This is a soft spot in their skulls. They’re the only breed born with an incomplete skull. This does fill in with age but care still needs to be taken during the first six months until the skull is fully formed. However, some do not close completely and will continue to require extra care to prevent injury. Many veterinarians aren’t familiar enough with the breed and mistaken molera with hydrocephalus.<br /><br />Hypoglycemia or low blood sugar is another risk. This is especially dangerous in puppies. Not treated this can lead to coma and death. This can be avoided with frequent feedings. Every three hours for small and young puppies. It’s recommended that owners have a simple sugar supplement on hand in case of emergency. Nutri-Cal, Karo syrup or honey can be rubbed on the gums and roof of the mouth. These rapidly raise the blood sugar level.<br /><br />Lethargy, sleepiness, low energy, uncoordinated walking, unfocused eyes, and neck muscle spasms or head pulling back or to the side are all symptoms of hypoglycemia.<br /><br />Due to their large, round, protruding eyes and their relatively low ground clearance they’re prone to eye infections. Care should be taken to prevent them from being poked in the eyes. Their eyes are also prone to frequent watering to remove dust or allergens that may get into the eye. Daily wiping will help keep the eyes clean and prevent tear stains.<br /><br />Collapsed trachea also known as reverse sneezing is a health concern of this breed<br /><br />Chihuahuas have a tendency to tremble. This is not a health issue but occurs usually when the dog is stressed, excited, or cold. Cold can be a problem for these small dogs. When outside they can wear coats or sweaters to help keep them warm. Also they enjoy digging and snuggling into blankets while they sleep.<br /><br />The average lifespan for a healthy Chi is between 10-17 years. (Another source said 14-18 years.)<br /><br />Since Chihuahuas are sometimes picky eaters it’s important to provide the adequate nutrition. Wet or fresh food is often most appealing. Though it’s important not to go too long without a meal care should be exercised not to overfeed this small breed.<br /><br />Dental care is important for these little dogs.<br /><br />Human foods shouldn’t be given. Due to the dog’s small size high fat or sugary treats even given in small amounts can result in an overweight dog. Being over weight they are more susceptible to increased joint injuries, tracheal collapse, chronic bronchitis. Also this can shorten their life span.<br /><br />Luxating Patella is a known genetic condition very common in Chihuahuas.<br />In some dogs the ridges forming the patellar groove aren’t correctly shaped and a shallow groove is created. The patella will luxate or slip out of place or sideways in dogs with shallow grooves. This causes the leg to lock up and forces the Chihuahua to hold their foot off the ground. When the patella luxates from the femur groove it usually can’t return to the normal position until the quadriceps muscle relaxes and increases in length. This is why the dog may be forced to hold their leg up for a few minutes after initial displacement. When the muscles are contracted and the patella is luxated from the correct position the joint is held in a flexed or bent position. The knee cap sliding across the femur can cause pain due to the bony ridges of the femur. When out of position they feel no discomfort and can continue with activity.<br /><br />Some Chihuahuas can also have heart related disorders such as heart murmurs and Pulmonic Stenosis. This is when the blood outflow from the heart’s right ventricle is obstructed at plutonic valve.<br /><br />They are also prone to physical deformities especially seen as they get older.<br /><br /><b><br />Registered with:</b><br />CKC = Continental Kennel Club<br />FCI = Fédération Cynologique Internationale<br />AKC = American Kennel Club<br />UKC = United Kennel Club<br />KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain<br />CKC = Canadian Kennel Club<br />ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club<br />NKC = National Kennel Club<br />NZKC = New Zealand Kennel Club<br />APRI = American Pet Registry Inc.<br />ACR = American Canine Registry<br />DRA = Dog Registry of America, Inc.<br />NAPR = North American Purebred Registry, Inc.<br /><br />____________________________________________________________<br />Information compiled from various sources. No copyright infringement intended. No monetary gain was received. Original was created August 26st, 2011 by Carrie McCormick.<br />____________________________________________________________</div>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-32327735709345092382011-11-17T18:21:00.000-08:002011-11-17T18:21:53.251-08:00Labrador Retriever<div>Originally posted in my other blog:&nbsp;<a href="http://loveforlabbies.blogspot.com/2011/07/labrador-retriever.html">loveforlabbies</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AwyEO5fdQwc/TsXA8rB2VTI/AAAAAAAAATI/sdwxewQ0xCQ/s1600/Jenna+Cell+071208a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AwyEO5fdQwc/TsXA8rB2VTI/AAAAAAAAATI/sdwxewQ0xCQ/s320/Jenna+Cell+071208a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><br />This friendly loyal breed is very loving towards humans. With their happy usually reliable temperament and dependable easy going way it’s no wonder the Lab is one of the most popular breeds. They not only hold this title in the United State but Canada and Australia as well.<br /><br />The typical lab thrives on human companionship, approval, and attention. They always want to be around their humans. The expression “follow you around like a puppy dog” may have been invented to describe this dog’s behavior. They are always eager to please and are very affectionate. They have a need for close physical contact. Whether it’s lying on your feet, sitting in your lap (someone must not have told them they aren’t lap dogs), or leaning against you they need to have that close contact with their humans. If you’re the type of person that doesn’t appreciate such displays of affection this is probably not the right breed for you.<br /><br />Lab are the type of dog that doesn’t consider anyone a stranger. Whether you have known them forever or just met them they will greet you just as enthusiastically. They have plenty of kisses and tail wags to spare. Guard dogs they are not. Many do make good watch dogs though. When someone approaches Labs will warn you with a bark. The key to keeping this easy going attitude towards others is socialization. No dog is too young to begin that very important behavior. Be sure to enforce social behavior throughout your dog’s life. (No matter what breed a social dog is a good dog.)<br /><br />Their loving affectionate nature and desire for the company of others makes them a good choice for families. Definitely not a one man’s dog. . Labs love to run and play with kids. Generally they are gentle and patient with children. They are not usually easily startled or upset. However, caution should be taken as their enthusiasm may get the best of them and they may knock a child over by accident. Many also enjoy games of fetch especially if water is included. Their other favorite hobby is chewing. They mouth and chew anything and everything. It’s not uncommon to see them carry things around in their mouths. Labs usually get along with other dogs so do well in a multi dog family.<br /><br />Labs are pretty content to live anywhere. Whether it’s an apartment without a yard or a huge home in the country they are happy. Just remember to always take them for a daily walk or run. Burning that extra energy makes for a happy dog. Remember if you have a yard be sure that it’s securely fenced. This breed tends to wander if not supervised. <br /><br />This highly intelligent breed makes training easy. Commands are often picked up very quickly. Be sure they have plenty of exercise to release any pent up energy. If bored they are notorious for digging holes. Also lonely or bored Labs tend to be more vocal. The chewing habit may appear in destructive ways to release their frustration.<br /><br />If you’re looking for a hiking or jogging companion this may just be the breed for you. They are very athletic, strong, and have plenty of energy. These attributes make them good in agility, obedience events, and hunting. Many Labs have gone on to be therapy dogs, service dogs, or guide dogs for the blind. Some have even gone into fields such as search and rescue or narcotics detection.<br /><br />It’s important to know being a larger breed they tend to physically grow quickly. However, their mental growth may take longer. Until two years old (sometimes older) these wonderful dogs tend to act like puppies. Another good reason early training is recommended. Since they crave leadership it’s important to establish that role with them. Adult Labbies tend to be very strong dogs so it’s important to teach them fundamentals at a young age. For example always make sure they know not to bolt out doorways or gates before you. <br /><b><br />Appearance:</b><br />There’s two types of Labrador Retrievers. The English which as their name suggests are bred from English stock. The other of course is the American. The overall appearance of the two types does differ. American bred tend to be tall and lanky. The double coat is smooth and does not have any waves. Whereas the English Lab tend to be heavier, blockier, and have a thicker build.<br /><br />The head is broad with a moderate stop that sits on a proportionately wide and powerful neck. They have thick noses that are black on the black or yellow Labs. On the chocolate Labs their nose pigmentation is brown. Since pigmentation often fades this is not considered a fault in the show rings. Their muzzles are fairly wide and their teeth should meet in a level or scissors bite. Lab’s bodies tend to be slightly longer then tall. The hard short coat isn’t too difficult to care for. It’s also water resistant. <br /><br />Yellow and black labs should have brown eyes. Chocolate labs have hazel or brown. Green or greenish yellow are also possible. Silver dogs usually have gray eyes. The medium sized eyes are set well apart. In Chocolate Labs their eyes are rimmed in brown whereas the yellow and black labs have black rims. Lab ears are medium sized and gradually taper into a tip. They’re covered in short hair completely with no feathering. Labs are known for their strong compact webbed feet. This genetic trait has aided many in swimming.<br /><br />English lines tend to be more calm and laid back compared to their American counterparts. It’s also said that they mature quicker. Field lines like the American tend to be very energetic and become easily high strung if they are not exercised properly. <br /><br />Both are average shedders. Their smooth short double coat is easy to groom but does require regular combing or brushing. Be sure to pay close attention to the undercoat. Bathing or using dry shampoo should only be done when needed. The coat colors come in solid black, yellow, or chocolate. Colors such as silver, gray, or white are not “rare” as many may have you believe. Breeders often try to get more for such color mutations. However, these colors are referred to as a shade of chocolate by the AKC. There is controversial debates over these colors. Some claim the mutation is true. Others strongly believe it’s due to the Weimaraner breed being crossed bred with Labradors. <br /><br />Height for males is usually 22-24 inches and in the females it’s 21-23inches. Males tend to weigh 60-75lbs though some may grow up to 100 or more. The females typically stay smaller within the 55-70lb range. Labs generally live 10 - 12 years.<br /><br /><b>Health:</b><br />Labs usually don’t have many major problems. However, they do have some inherited disorders.<br /><br />Prone to hip and elbow dysplasia especially in the larger labs. It’s recommended to get hip scores before breeding and joint supplements are often recommended.<br /><br />Suffer from the risk of knee problems. Luxating patella is common in the knee where the leg is often bow shaped.<br /><br />Eye problems like progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts, corneal dystrophy and retinal dysplasia. A veterinary ophthalmologists should examine and give an eye score for any dogs being considered for breeding.<br /><br />Hereditary myopathy is a rare disorder that causes a deficiency in type II muscle fibre. Symptoms are short stilted gait or bunny hopping. In rare cases ventroflexion of the neck accompanied by a kyphotic posture.<br /><br />Small incidence of other conditions like autoimmune diseases and deafness in Labs. Either congenitally or later in life.<br /><br />Labs often suffer from exercise induced collapse. Syndrome that causes hyperthermia, weakness, collapse, and disorientation after short bouts of exercise.<br /><br /><b>Obesity:</b><br />Labs like to eat. Without proper exercise they can become obese. Healthy labs can swim and do wind sprints for two hours. They should have a very slight hourglass waist. They should be fit and light not fat or heavy set. When fat they usually develop hip dysplasia or other joint problems and get diabetes. Osteoarthritis is common in older overweight labs. According to a 14 year study by Purina of 48 dogs those fed to maintain lean body shape outlived by about two years those fed freely. This is an example of why not over feeding is important.<br /><br /><b>History:</b><br />Once known as the St John’s dog. Labs are native to Newfoundland. These dogs worked beside fishermen catching fish that came loose from the lines. Also they were trained to jump in icy waters to help pull the nets. In the 1800s they were brought to England by English ships coming from Labrador. Setters, Spaniels, and other types of Retrievers were cross bred with the Labradors. These breeding techniques were done to improve the hunter instincts. Present day Labs now excel in hunting, tracking, and retrieving.<br /><br /><b>History of subtypes:</b><br /><br />Yellow and Chocolate Labs did occasionally appear through the breeding lines. However, sadly many were often culled. It wasn’t until the 20th century that they finally gained acceptance.<br /><br />Ben of Hyde born in 1899 was the first recognized yellow. In the 1930s chocolate became more established.<br /><b><br />Yellow - </b><br />Early years until mid 20th century labs of the color we now refer to as yellow were much darker an almost butterscotch shade. Many early photos of yellow labs show this. At that time the shade was known as golden. They then had to change that name b/c UK Kennel club said gold wasn’t actually a color. Over the 20th century preference for lighter shades and cream colors. Now these days most yellows have this shading. Fawn was also another common color in the yellows.<br /><br />English breeders in the 1980s reestablished the interest of darker shades such as gold or fox red. Three dogs were instrumental in this change. A black lab born approx 1976 by the name of Balrion King Frost consistently sired very dark yellow offspring. He’s credited for having the biggest influence of the redevelopment of the fox red shades. His great grand son Wynfaul Tabasco was born in 1986 has been described as “the father of the modern fox red Labrador” He was also the only modern fox red show champion in the uk. Others such as Red Alert and Scrimshaw Placido Ramingo are also credited with passing on the genes into more then one renowned bloodline.<br /><br /><b>Chocolate - </b><br />Jack Vanderwyk traces the origins of Chocolates listed on the LabradorNet database. (About 34000 labs of all shades) to eight original bloodlines. These shades were not seen as a distinct color until the 20th century. Before that time according to Vanderwyk these dogs can be traced but not registered. Crossbreeding with Flatcoats or Chesapeake Bay Retrievers has also been documented in the early 20th century prior to be recognized.<br /><br />Chocolate labs were well established in the early 20th century at the kennels of the Earl of Feversham, and Lady Ward of Chiltonfoliat. These traced bloodlines each lead back to three black labs in the 1880s.<br /><br />Buccleuch Avon (m), his sire Malmesbury Tramp and dam Malmesbury June . Morningtown Tobla also an important intermediary, and according to the Buccleuch Kennels studbook the chocolates in this kennel came through FTW Peter of Faskally (1908).<br /><b><br />Group Classification:</b><br />Gun dog, AKC Sporting.<br /><b><br />Registered with:</b><br />CKC = Continental Kennel Club<br />FCI = Fédération Cynologique Internationale<br />AKC = American Kennel Club<br />UKC = United Kennel Club<br />KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain<br />CKC = Canadian Kennel Club<br />ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club<br />NKC = National Kennel Club<br />NZKC = New Zealand Kennel Club<br />CCR = Canadian Canine Registry<br />APRI = American Pet Registry Inc.<br />ACR = American Canine Registry<br />DRA = Dog Registry of America, Inc.<br />NAPR = North American Purebred Registry, Inc.<br /><br />_______________________________________<br />Information compiled from various sources. No copyright infringement intended. No monetary gain was received. Original was created July 21st, 2011 by Carrie McCormick.<br />______________________________________Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-80553704825512699162011-11-17T17:09:00.000-08:002011-11-17T17:09:28.905-08:00Goldfish<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VFDYrqcePQQ/TsWwLXJZgGI/AAAAAAAAATA/PZM9Dk3SOJU/s1600/chirslombardclinic092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VFDYrqcePQQ/TsWwLXJZgGI/AAAAAAAAATA/PZM9Dk3SOJU/s320/chirslombardclinic092.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b><br /></b><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Origin</b><br />Goldfish have been bred for over thousands of years in the Orient. Europe has also been breeding them for over a hundred years. The various patterns, shapes, and colors are a result. In Asia and eastern Europe they are found in lakes, ponds, and cool watered streams. The ones you see nowadays in pet stores and from breeders are captive bred.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Maintenance</b><br />The key to keeping any fish healthy is clean water and Goldfish are no different. They prefer cool water. Therefore the temps should not rise above 74. The best range to keep them at is &nbsp;65-68. If they’re kept at temps above 72 for lengthy time it can result in Oxygen deprivation. This will result in heart damage, nerve damage, and immune system issues that make them more susceptible to disease.<br /><br />Though many keep Goldfish in bowls it’s not recommended. The way to go is an aquarium. The bigger the better as the case with many fish. Tanks shouldn’t be any smaller then 10 gallons. This size though is really only suitable for one so if there’s more then one in your tank you should go larger.<br /><br />Water changes of 10-15% should be done weekly. This helps keep the water clean and removes any waste the filter may have missed.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Filtration&nbsp;</b><br />Gold fish tanks need a good filtering system. Filters should not put out a strong current as it may cause difficulty in swimming.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Substrate</b><br />Many Gold fish keepers don’t recommend using anything for a substrate. Often their health is at risk because gravel can get caught in their throat when they’re looking around for uneaten food. Also if decayed food trapped in the gravel gets consumed it can lead to intestinal bacterial infections. The other concern is Gold fish are naturally dirty so any organics or pollutions can get trapped in the gravel.<br /><br />However, maintaining a healthy environment by circulating the water, keeping up on the filters, and avoid over feeding it can help prevent many of these concerns. Also if you use pea sized gravel it’s less likely they’ll be able to consume it causing any issues.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Tank Decorations</b><br />To feel safe they need lots of hiding places. A safe fish is an active fish. Make sure there’s at least 50-75% cover. Having places to hide will reduce stress and help prevent health issues.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Diet</b><br />These scavengers are omnivorous. This means they can have both plant and animal matter. It’s important to provide them with a varied diet high in carbohydrates. There’s a wide variety of Goldfish foods on the market. Also available are frozen fish foods which are a suitable choice as long as they’re not fed too often. The key to good health and long life expectancy is a proper balanced diet. &nbsp;<br /><br />These fish can and will graze for food constantly as they have large appetites. Be careful not to over feed them. They only need to be fed once a day. Any food not consumed after two minutes should be removed from the tank. Doing this helps prevent disease due to poor water quality.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Goldfish favorite foods:</b><br /><br /><ul><li>Small fishes&nbsp;</li><li>Krill&nbsp;</li><li>Organic Earthworms&nbsp;</li><li>Meal Worms&nbsp;</li><li>Blood Worms&nbsp;</li><li>White Worms</li><li>Micro Worms&nbsp;</li><li>Tubifex Worms&nbsp;</li><li>Wax Worms&nbsp;</li><li>Infusoria&nbsp;</li><li>Daphnia&nbsp;</li><li>Brine Shrimp&nbsp;</li><li>Baby guppies</li><li>Baby swordtail</li></ul><br /><br />Set up a feeding schedule. In time you should be able to figure out how much or how little to feed them at each meal. You can gauge this by seeing how much they eat in the first few minutes. Overfeeding causes health and water issues. Some recommend only feeding once while others say twice. Decide what works best for you and ration out the amounts accordingly.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Companionship</b><br />Should be kept with same sized fish that require the same care. Also keep in mind the temperaments of the tank mates. Basically that usually narrows it down to other Goldfish. Luckily there’s a variety of fancy Goldfish to choose from.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Baby Care</b><br />Once the babies hatch be sure you clean the tank once within 7-10 days. You can feed them baby brine shrimp before slowly changing to other foods. Be careful not to overfeed the babies. Any weak or deformed should be culled as they won’t survive for long and may risk the health of the others. Always maintain optimum water conditions to be sure they stay healthy.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Life Expectancy</b><br />Some Goldfish can live as long as 20 years. These are usually of the pond variety. If a tank of proper size is maintained properly they can live 15+ years.<br /><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Gold Fish. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.&nbsp;</b>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-6489810221693569222011-11-13T18:14:00.000-08:002011-11-13T18:15:12.311-08:00Fancy Mice<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ip0Wvr4o1fU/TsB5fGZFcdI/AAAAAAAAAS4/TvAvIpETGIQ/s1600/20110407174234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ip0Wvr4o1fU/TsB5fGZFcdI/AAAAAAAAAS4/TvAvIpETGIQ/s320/20110407174234.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b><br /></b><br /><b>Life Span&nbsp;</b><br />Biggest drawback is their short lifespan. 1.5-2 years Is the average. Some have been known to live up to 3.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Habits</b><br />Mice are nocturnal and are most active at night. They are quite social and do best when in groups. Typically a pair of females is the easier grouping. However, larger groups will okay if provided with enough living space. It’s not recommended to house pairs of males unless are litter mates and have never been separated. Fighting is less likely if their housing is large. Avoid housing unfamiliar males together because they can and do fight sometimes even to the death. For obvious reasons males and females shouldn’t be housed together. They can produce a lot of offspring quickly.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Choosing Healthy Mice&nbsp;</b><br />The most important thing to keep in mind especially when purchasing your mice from a pet store would be the health. Look got active bright mice that have clean ears, eyes, tails, and coats. Their tails and ears should have a clean pink hue. Their nose and eyes should have no discharge. Mouths and the anal section should also be clean and dry. It’s normal for their breathing to be somewhat fast but it should never be labored, raspy, or noisy.<br /><br />Also be sure to check their surroundings. The cage should be cleaned and the mice within it should show they’re well cared for. Any waste should be dropping in a somewhat formed shape nothing runny or gooey looking.<br /><br />Another thing you want to make sure that if they do sell both genders they’re separated. Good pet stores and breeders will be sure to do this. Like many rodents they can and do reproduce at a very young age. It’s not unheard of and quite typical for the, to already begin breeding at 6-8 weeks old. This should be avoided because it’s very stressful for the young female.<br /><br />Mice are fully weaned around four weeks of age. They do benefit from being with their littermates for another week. After all having to leave their mom, home, and siblings all at the same time can be stressful on these little critters. If it can be avoided they shouldn’t leave their family before they’re five weeks. Too young and they can be quite skittish, jumpy, and prove harder to socialize.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Sexing</b><br />You want to make sure you’re getting mice of the same sex. They can produce large litters in a short period of time. In just three weeks babies are born. If you’re not careful you could easily be overrun with more babies then you know what to do with. Then your cute little easy mice can become difficult problem.<br /><br />Telling the difference between the genders is not difficult on mice. It doesn’t take long for the obvious features to show. You simply need to check under their tails. The distance between the anal and genital opening is shorter on females then males. The younger they are the harder it may prove to be if you don’t have both genders to compare. Once they’re older and definitely once they’ve hit the 6-8 week the male’s “equipment” is very easy to see. Also another good tip to remember is females have nipples and the males don’t.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Gender Behavior&nbsp;</b><br /><b>Males</b> tend to be more cuddly and friendly. Males are much harder to house together.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Females</b> are typically more active. More females can live together. It’s good to have at least two together.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Handling</b><br />Pick them up near the base of the tail supporting their little bodies. Never grab them their tails as that can cause injury. Mice will try to escape if they’re being grabbed. Careful not to squeeze to tight as you may crush them by accident. Frightened mice may use teeth in self defense so always be aware of that.<br /><br />Until they’re used to it try using something else to scoop them up in. Then you can gently slide the mouse into your hand that way. Remember because of their small build children should be supervised at all times during any handling.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Housing</b><br />There’s a few options. Each have their own pros and cons. Remember no matter what is used mice are small and can easily squeeze out of small spaces. They can also chew their way to freedom as well. &nbsp;Whatever you choose to house your rodents in you will need to take these things into consideration. Also be sure to use a secure screened lid for anything that isn’t already a cage type material. You want the mice to be able to get enough ventilation. <br /><br />Many use simple 10 gallon tanks which are suitable for up to three mice. As with any type of housing the larger the better. If you have the ability to go bigger it’d only benefit your mice.<br /><br />Other housing options: bird or small rodent cages with wire spacing no larger then ¼, wood boxes, plastic bins.<br /><br />Bedding and Nesting<br />It’s important to never use synthetic fiber or cotton bedding. Mice have been known to eat it or even get tangled in it causing death. Also never use cedar shavings since it can and does cause breathing issues as well as burns. Many also discourage against pine shavings because breathing issues can come up with this product as well.<br /><br />The best thing to do is try a variety of beddings to see what works for you and your mice. Another good tip would be not to buy in large quantities until you know what works best.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Aspen - </b>Used by most. However, it’s been known to cause more allergies then other wood beddings.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Care fresh - </b>Safe. However, sometimes this bedding can be very dusty.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Timothy Hay-</b> Helps odor. The mice enjoy nesting in it. However, it can carry parasites such as lice or mites. It’s recommended that you freeze or bake it before using so that any parasites are killed.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Treated Pine - </b>As mentioned above it’s not usually recommended. However, it is the most common type of bedding used.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Other - </b>Paper towels, newspaper, cloth. Each has their pros and cons and it’s recommended to research anything you choose to try.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Other Cage Supplies</b><br />Your new little friend(s) will want something to play with. This is where the fun part comes. Get creative. Though the pet stores are filled with toys you don’t have to spend any extra money. Simple things around the house make the best types of toys. Cardboard paper towel or toilet paper rolls, Cardboard boxes, little containers (be warned they will be chewed), piece of safe wood or wooden blocks, bird toys, rodent wheel, little plant pots or other random dishes. Ladders, swings, teeter-totters, and other devices to climb on can also be made or bought. Be sure they have a rodent wheel as many love to entertain themselves for hours. Also some place to nap filled with a safe nesting material such as hay is ideal.<br /><br />Don’t forget water bottle and food dishes that can endure mice chewing.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Feeding</b><br />Mice are omnivores and will eat just about anything. Their staple diet is usually oats of some kind. Other types of food people often use: nuts, seeds, dry bread, dog food, dog biscuits, bones, millet, maize, cream crackers, cooked or uncooked pasta, root vegetables, breakfast cereals, mouse diet, meat, fish, fruits, greens (though too much can cause runny stool)<br /><br />Despite their size mice do consume quite a lot of food. Be sure to always check that they have plenty of food. Water should also be checked and changed often.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Cleaning</b><br />To avoid odor they should be cleaned at least a couple times a week. Left too long between cleaning and ammonia builds up causing health issues. Be sure to use a mild cleanser, completely rinse so there’s no residue or fumes, and dry completely before the mice are put back. Don’t forget to clean any toys, dishes, water bottles, and other cage items as well as the cage. <br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Health</b><br />Typically they are hard animals not prone to a lot of health issues. Though they are susceptible to many of the same ailments other small rodents have. Usually by the time symptoms are seen it may be too late. It’s important to seek help quickly if you suspect something is wrong.<br /><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Mice. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.&nbsp;</b><br /><div><br /></div>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-26386806514160581062011-11-13T10:38:00.000-08:002011-11-13T10:38:42.392-08:00Plecostomus<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />aka Pleco, Sucker Fish, Sucker Mouth, Catfish, Algae Eaters<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f-5fdj9sgMc/TsAOQo0dO3I/AAAAAAAAASw/q0oNSMQENeY/s1600/20110731044005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f-5fdj9sgMc/TsAOQo0dO3I/AAAAAAAAASw/q0oNSMQENeY/s320/20110731044005.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><b><br /></b><br /><b>Life span&nbsp;</b><br />10-15 yr<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Origin&nbsp;</b><br />South America<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Size&nbsp;</b><br />At least 18inches depending on variety.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Temps&nbsp;</b><br />70-82<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Temperament</b><br />Typically these nocturnal fish have a peaceful solitary nature. However, they can be aggressive toward their own species.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Compatible</b><br />Many due their usually peaceful nature.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Tank Setup</b><br />Adults can grow quite large so depending on the type the minimum size tank would be 55 gallons. Hiding places, plants, and rocks should be provided. &nbsp; <br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Diet</b><br />These bottom feeders are usually herbivores. There are some that require live, dried, and freeze dried and meaty based foods in their diets. They get their algae off of the glass and other surfaces in the tank. Plecos also enjoy: lettuce, zucchini, spinach, peas (smashed and placed on a rock like paste.)<br /><br />Older Plecos eat algae less often. They’ll need it supplemented in their diet. This can be done with algae wafers that sink to the tank’s floor. Sinking shrimp pellets are also another favorite.<br /><br />For best results it’s suggested that you feed after the lights have been turned off for the day. This helps prevent other fish from stealing your Pleco’s food.<br /><br />Most of the armored catfish available are commonly referred to as Plecostomus even though they belong to other catfish species. Most will grow to a length of 10 inches.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Sexing</b><br />No visible difference between the genders. <br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Breeding</b><br />They can be difficult to breed in home aquariums. In fact one site even stated that there’s no reports of them breeding in captivity. In their natural habitats breeding is done in pits they’ve dug into the substrate. Once the eggs have been laid and fertilized they guard them until they’re hatched. Once hatched the young fry feed off the body mucus of their parents. <br /><br />Most Plecos that are sold in pet stores are from eggs that were collected from riverbanks. After they are collected they’re hatched and raised on fish farms.<br /><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Pleco Fish. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.&nbsp;</b>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-74798714548454465112011-11-12T14:39:00.000-08:002011-11-12T14:39:12.204-08:00Red Eared Slider (Chrysemys scripta elegans)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fGZEVVu4C_s/Tr71PKuYqaI/AAAAAAAAASo/Pu4HaVMS1s8/s1600/Picture+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fGZEVVu4C_s/Tr71PKuYqaI/AAAAAAAAASo/Pu4HaVMS1s8/s320/Picture+010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b><br /></b><br /><b>Natural Environment</b><br />United States - from Gulf of Mexico to East Coast to Western Texas.<br />Also found in other regions most likely because of people releasing pet turtles into the wild.<br /><br />These turtles spend most of their lives in or around water. They can be found in lakes and rivers but prefer marshes, ponds, and other slow moving water. Basically areas that can provide adequate food and basking areas. RES enjoy rocks, logs, and other surfaces above water that allow them places to bathe in the sun. Like other reptiles keeping warm is essential. Turtles found in the northern regions will hibernate.<br /><br />Sadly though they’re the most popular semi aquatic turtle they are also the most abandoned and poorly cared for. Many don’t realize the proper care &nbsp;of these turtles can be more complicated then they originally thought.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Life expectancy</b><br />50-70 years.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Size:&nbsp;</b><br /><b>Hatchlings -</b> Approximately 1 inch in diameter.<br /><b>Adults - </b>Can grow as large as 12 inches in length.<br /><b>Note:</b> It’s illegal in the United States for pet stores to sell these turtles if their shells are less then 4 inches in diameter.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Sexual differences:&nbsp;</b><br />In captivity generally they reach sexual maturity between 2-4 years old. In the wild females sometimes don’t mature until 5-7 years. Females are usually larger than the males. Generally it’s difficult to tell until your turtle reaches 3-5 years of age.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Males -</b> Typically sporting longer front claws, shell is concaved on the bottom, tail is fatter and longer. Their vent opening is farther from the body and closer to the tail’s tip.<br /><br /><b>Females -&nbsp;</b>Claws are shorter, shell bottom is flat, shorter tails, vent is closer to the body. They are also bigger then males.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Color:&nbsp;</b><br />RES skin is green with bright yellow stripes. Some sliders may not be sporting the red patch behind their eyes. Most do and that’s how got their name. &nbsp;Sometimes they also have a patch of red on the top of their head. &nbsp;They have webbed feet with strong claws. Hatchling shells are green with a fine pattern of &nbsp;yellow-green sometimes dark green markings. When they mature the carapace may be yellow or olive green. The fine pattern changes into dark lines or patches on each scute. Some portions of their shell may have yellow, white, or red. As a turtle ages the lines and patches of color may slowly disappear eventually resulting in a uniform dark olive green or greenish-brown. Some male s will become uniformly dark gray or black also known as melanistic. <br /><br />Through breeding two other color morphs have been developed. One is lighter in color with varying amounts of red or yellow. This particular color formation is known as pastel. The other morph is albino. Juveniles are bright yellow with the color fading as the turtle ages.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Most common mistakes:</b><br />Potential turtle owners don‘t realize that pet stores don’t know much about the animals that they sell. These animals are usually purchased in large quantities from the cheapest dealers. That results in sales of inbred or wild caught animals. Sometimes these animals are even illegal to sell. Other times the health and wellbeing of the animals aren’t considered.<br />Hatchlings are difficult to care for. They can become sick easily. Often the disease rapidly progresses to death. Sadly about 90% of all baby turtles sold die within the first year.<br />Many don’t know the proper environment needed for turtles. Mistakenly many think turtles only need a 10-20 gallon tank with some water with just a little plastic island to crawl onto.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Housing</b><br />Ideally year round outdoor housing is the best choice for a turtle. However, that is not always obtainable. In that case there are ways of making a adequate environment indoors. If they aren’t house outdoor their natural environment will need to be mimicked. Warm temps, water for swimming, and a basking area are essential.<br /><br />They can be housed in aquariums made of glass or acrylic. Heavy duty plastic tubs, wading pools, stock tanks, or homemade enclosures can also be used. The options are only limited to your creativity and budget.<br />Don’t forget they will grow and will need a large enclosure. Eventually they’ll need at least a 55 gallon aquarium. To avoid having to keep upgrading as they grow it may be more worthwhile to start out big. The bigger the better.<br /><br />The swimming area for sliders should be five times longer then the turtle’s shell length, three times wider, and two times as deep. The dry area for basking should be twice the length of the turtle.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Furnishing&nbsp;</b><br />Turtles need a safe easy way to exit the water. The basking sites should be totally out of the water. Substrate of large smooth aquarium gravel can be used to form a slope to dry land. Cork bark, driftwood, a piece of plexi-glass glued to the side of the enclosure or smooth rocks can be used for basking.<br /><br />Be sure to top the enclosure with a tight fitting screen. This prevents turtles from escaping, objects falling in, and predators getting to them.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Lighting&nbsp;</b><br />Warm basking area is needed to help with digestion. This can be provided by using an incandescent spot light or a mercury vapor bulb made for reptiles.<br /><br />The should also have exposure to UVB. It’s not certain how much is required for turtles. UVB provides vitamin D3 which helps in the absorption of calcium. Without this essential vitamin improper growth, soft shells, or even death can result. Since it’s not feasible for many turtle owners to provide sun for their turtles year round a UVB bulb can be purchased.<br /><br />Here’s some options on how to provide both basking and UVB lighting.<br />Reptile florescent tubes like Repti-Sun 7.0 provides the needed UVB and can be paired up with an incandescent basking light to provide the heat needed for proper digestion.<br />Con of this set up - Dual lighting is needed. &nbsp;Florescent tubes need replacement approx every 6 months. Also the bulb and basking light must be within 12 inches of each other to be effective.<br />Another alternative is using one bulb that provides both basking and UVB. This can done by using a Mercury Vapor bulb specifically made for reptiles. Used correctly these bulbs can fulfill both requirements.<br />Con of this set up - The cost is high. It’s about twice as much as a florescent bulb. It needs to be replaced every year.<br /><br />Whichever lighting scenario you choose it’s recommended to use a timer. By doing this you can be sure the turtle gets the 12-14 hours of light it requires daily.<br /><br />Do know that incandescent lights, non reptile florescent tubes, and<br />“Full Spectrum” don’t supply UVB.<br /><br />Temperature<br />Maintaining proper temperatures is essential to a turtle’s health.<br />The enclosure should be around 75. The dry basking area should be around 85-87. Water temps should be around 75-82.<br /><br />If these areas are not warm enough the turtle may not leave the water to dry off and digest food. Fungal and bacterial diseases along with a loss of appetite can be the result.<br /><br />Babies and ill turtles require water temps around 82-85.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Water&nbsp;</b><br />Turtles use their water to swim, drink, and go to the bathroom. Feeding your turtle in a separate container can help reduce some of the mess. However, a good filter and frequent water changes are still needed. The filter can’t handle all the waste the turtle puts out. Much of this sinks to the bottom Water changes for 25-50% at least once a week will be required.<br /><br />Also complete tank cleaning and disinfecting should be at least every three weeks. Be sure to completely remove everything from the tank. Wash all the contents minus any animals and live plants. Some recommend at 10% bleach to 90% water solution. Others suggest vinegar. Whichever method you choose be sure to thoroughly rinse and allow time to dry before replacing it back into the enclosure.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Diet&nbsp;</b><br />Young sliders eat mostly animal proteins. As they get older more vegetative matter is consumed.<br /><br />In captivity we try to replicate their natural diet as much as is possible.<br />You should feed them a variety to ensure that they are getting what they need nutritionally although there are no studies that say exactly what that is.<br /><b><br /></b><br />Animal Proteins&nbsp;(25–50% of diet) <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />Vegetable Matter&nbsp;(50-75% of diet)<br />Beef Heart<br />Chicken<br />Crayfish<br />Crickets<br />Earthworms<br />Feeder Goldfish<br />Fresh Water Fish<br />Frozen Trout<br />Guppies<br />Insects<br />Mealworms<br />Night Crawlers<br />Small Fish<br />Small Frogs<br />Snails<br />Tadpoles<br />Toads<br />Wax Worms<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />Anacharis<br />Apples<br />Blueberries<br />Butternut Squash<br />Cantaloupe<br />Carrots<br />Carrot Tops<br />Chickweed<br />Collard Greens<br />Dandelion Greens<br />Dark Leafy Greens<br />Duck Weed<br />Endive<br />Fruit<br />Green Beans<br />Mulberry Tree Leaves<br />Mustard Greens<br />Strawberries<br />Water Hyacinths<br />Water Lettuce<br />Water Lilies<br />Watercress<br /><br />Commercial Turtle Pellets (15–25% of diet if at all)<br />Most commercial pellets are high in fats and proteins. They should be used only in limited amounts if at all. It could lead to an over weight turtle. It’d be better to offer real food with vitamin supplements.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Feeding&nbsp;</b><br />Turtles should only be fed what they will eat in a 20-30 minute time frame. Also the amount should be equal to the size of their neck and head. Since they don’t produce saliva that’s needed to swallow they must be fed in water. This can be the water they live in or water of the same temperature in another enclosure. <br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Vitamins</b><br />It’s recommended that a supplement be used since it’s not known what a turtle’s exact nutritional needs are. RepCal’s Herptivite is a good reptile supplement that should be added 2-3 times weekly.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Calcium&nbsp;</b><br />Providing some kind of calcium is important for proper shell and bone growth. There’s a lot of options but the most recommended are calcium blocks or cuttlebones. Turtles will gnaw on them when needed if you place them near the water.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Temperament</b><br />It’s not unusual for them to spend their first days in their shells before acclimating to their environment. In time they begin to recognize you as their food provider. They’ll start greeting you with anticipation. Remember there’s always a chance you may get bitten if they feel threatened.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Handling&nbsp;</b><br />Be sure to gently handle them with proper support given to their body and legs. It’s best if you do this with both hands just to be on the safe side. Turtles could become seriously or fatally injured if they were to fall. If something startles them they may struggle and you could end up with scratches.<br /><br />Don’t forget to always wash before and after handling any reptile. Any child younger then five shouldn’t handle turtles due to the risk of disease. Older children should always be supervised and taught the proper way to handle turtles.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Health&nbsp;</b><br />Like many small animals and reptiles turtles can become sick for awhile before showing symptoms. Often by the time it’s noticed the situation is quite serious. If any of these symptoms happen and it’s not pinpointed to a new stress factor contact vet that specifically deals with turtles.<br /><br /><ul><li>Cracked or broken shell</li><li>Swollen eyes, cheeks, or neck</li><li>Mucus around the nose or mouth</li><li>Open mouth breathing&nbsp;</li><li>Lethargic</li><li>Diarrhea</li><li>Constipated</li><li>Soft shell&nbsp;</li><li>Gaping&nbsp;</li><li>Red object protruding from cloaca&nbsp;</li><li>Not eating (even in proper temps)</li></ul><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><b><br /></b><br /><b>Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for turtles. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.&nbsp;</b>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-51682830147566608112011-11-11T21:58:00.000-08:002011-11-11T21:58:33.368-08:00Oscar (Astronotus ocellatus)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HWuf4XNyIwg/Tr4K3aWIYxI/AAAAAAAAASY/eSiUx4s0T0E/s1600/20111009215915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HWuf4XNyIwg/Tr4K3aWIYxI/AAAAAAAAASY/eSiUx4s0T0E/s320/20111009215915.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b><br /></b></span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Type&nbsp;</b></span><br />Cichlids<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Other Names</b><br />Velvet Cichlid, Marble Cichlid, Standard Oscar, Red Tiger Oscar, Red Oscar, Albino Oscar, Peacock-eye<br /><br /><b>Origin</b><br />South America, &nbsp;Amazon and Orinoco River Basins - Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, French Guiana, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay, and Venezuela<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Minimum Tank Size</b><br />30 gallons to start out with when they‘re young. However, they need to be upgraded quickly. A single adult needs a minimum of 75 gallons. It’s usually best to start out as large as possible.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Tank Setup</b><br />Lid - Prevents fish from jumping out.<br />Low light - Often like to each their food at the surface.<br />Fake plants - They like tearing up live plants.<br />Rocks and other decorations - Need stuff to rearrange and play with<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Temperature&nbsp;</b><br />75°- 86°F<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Tank Level</b><br />Usually stay within the middle but will go to all levels of the tank.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Care</b><br />These large fish tend to be messy due to large waste. They will need frequent changes and a decent filter.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Behavior</b><br />Often territorial especially during breeding season. They have a reputation of being aggressive but not as much as some fish. Can be peaceful if paired up with other robust species. Some can even live within small groups. <br /><br />These smart fish enjoy uprooting their plants and tank decorations. It’s not uncommon for them to put on a performance when they want attention. Swimming to the surface opening and closing their mouths Is another favorite attention getting action used quite often. They can even recognize their owners and learn their feeding schedules. Many can even be trained to swim to your hand or other tricks.<br /><br />Their tanks shouldn’t be barren as they need stimulation and things to do. If they get bored or stressed it can lead to illness. Playing with heaters, bubble wands, plants, and other assorted decorations and even digging their gravel are favorite hobbies of this entertaining fish.<br /><br />Watching their owners and what else is going on in the room is another favorite past time. They seem to thrive in a room where there’s a lot going on and they can see you.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Compatibility</b><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;">They can be kept by themselves or with other fish of same size. Smaller fish can fall victim to these large fish that love to eat.&nbsp;</span><br /><br /><ul><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Cichlids of same size&nbsp;</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Oscars</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Barbs</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Wolf Fish</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Clown Loaches</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Tiger Loaches</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Sharks</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Polypterus of similar size&nbsp;</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Synodontis Catfish (upside down and squeaker catfish)</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Plecos</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Pacu</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Large Arowana</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Silver Dollar</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Annostomus&nbsp;</span></li></ul><br /><b>Life span</b><br />10 years or more. Oscars are long term commitments and this should be taken into consideration.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Size</b><br />12-16 inches. Grows up very fast<br />While still young they can grow at an impressive rate of up to 1+ inches a month.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Feeding</b><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;">These carnivorous fish are not very picky. Being opportunistic fish anything that fits in their mouths is fair game. This trait makes them always act hungry. They will do it whether they’re fed well or not. Overfeeding and health issues can be common due to this. &nbsp;</span><br />Cichlid flakes<br />Cichlid pellets<br />Frozen foods<br />Brine shrimp<br />Crickets<br />Worms<br />Krill<br />Insects and insect larvae<br />Crustaceans and other invertebrates<br />Crayfish<br />Plant matter<br /><b><br /></b><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Sexing</b></span><br />Difficult to determine.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Breeding</b><br />A 55 gallon tank minimum is recommended. Often breeding pairs bond strongly and remain loyal. About 1000 eggs are laid on a pre cleaned site. Oscars make good parents and work together to protect their young.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Oscar Fish. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.&nbsp;</b>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-63171278733504897162011-11-11T14:47:00.000-08:002011-11-11T14:47:04.944-08:00Crested Gecko (Rhacodactylus Ciliatus)<span style="background-color: transparent;">aka New Caledonian Crested Geckos, Eyelash Geckos</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tv4k6fQUsqk/Tr2lts8dNvI/AAAAAAAAASQ/H0-TqRbfxCs/s1600/20111011020349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tv4k6fQUsqk/Tr2lts8dNvI/AAAAAAAAASQ/H0-TqRbfxCs/s320/20111011020349.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Now gaining popularity these geckos are still relatively new within the reptile community. Until 1994 it was believed that they were extinct. They come from the &nbsp;New Caledonian Islands near Australia.<br /><br />These hardy reptiles make fantastic pets no matter what one’s reptile experience is. For the most part they are easy to care for, handle, and don’t require a lot of expensive equipment or food.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Feeding</b><br />Crested Geckos are one of the easier lizards to feed. Many use Repashy Crested Gecko Diet. It’s simply a powder that you mix with water. This mixture has the essential ingredients to keep your cresties healthy. Some care sheets online still mention feeding baby food but many do not recommend.<br /><br />Hatchlings and young geckos - Repashy Diet every night.<br />Adults - Repashy Diet 3-4 nights a week.<br /><br />Crickets can be fed as occasional treat. However, it’s not recommended on loose substrate as there’s a risk of impaction if the it’s ingested. Also it’s not a good idea to feed crickets often because the geckos may lose interest in other food.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Water/Humidity</b><br />Mist the terrarium 2-3 times daily. You can do it less in the summer when the humidity is higher. The winter months are often drier so more often may be needed.<br /><br />Water is licked off the glass and tank decos. You can keep a small water dish in the enclosure but it’s not required. As long as it’s shallow enough that the gecko can’t drown this shouldn’t pose any problems. To avoid the risk of mold and bacterial growth make sure the enclosure is dry during part of the day.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Temperature</b><br />These geckos come from tropical regions but prefer cooler temps. During the day temps should be around 70-78 degrees. Anything above 80-85 is harmful and can cause stress. The temps at night can go as low as 62. Younger geckos are more fragile with extreme temperatures. Generally room temps are okay but an under tank heating pad for reptiles or a low watt blue bulb can be used if a little more heat is needed.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>UV Lighting</b><br />Unlike most reptiles these geckos don’t require any special UV or full spectrum lighting.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Cage Setup</b><br />The options are endless. You can go simple or elaborate and natural looking. Many use simple Kritter Keeps with paper as substrate for young geckos. Be sure to include fake plants for them to climb on and hide in. Adults can be kept in larger enclosures like exo-terra terrariums or tanks. Eco earth can also be used as substrate when they are larger. If you want to display your geckos the natural look may be what you’re interested in.<br /><br />In their natural environment they live in rainforests. They’re found on the ground and in the trees. Ideally they should be given similar conditions when in captivity.<br /><br />Substrate of pea moss, coco-fiber, cypress mulch or other high humidity bedding can be used. Perches and hiding places such as branches, driftwood, or even cork bark can be used. Plants are also a good addition whether alive or fake.<br /><br />Single or Pairs - 20 gallon tall aquariums make for a perfect habitat.<br /><br />For larger groups - 29 gallons or larger should be used.<br /><br />When considering their enclosure take into consideration they prefer to climb so something that gives them a lot of vertical space is ideal. Also for larger groups you may want to keep it as simple as possible. This allows for easier maintenance and clean up. Newspaper or paper towels make for an easy to use substrate. Get creative when considering hiding places. PVC pipes, cardboard tubes, egg crates, and other similar objects are&nbsp;<span style="background-color: transparent;">good choices. Place a small plastic box with moist peat moss with a small hole cut for entry can be used for egg deposition or humid hide.&nbsp;</span><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Adjustment Period</b><br />Give your new arrival some time to get adjusted to it’s new home. They can become stressed from the transport. It’s not uncommon for them to be stressed and go off feed for several days.<br /><br />Be sure their enclosure is set up properly and that should speed up the adjustment period. Typically they become stressed if their cage is different from what they’re used to. Many breeders keep reptiles in rack like systems so that the reptile is house in plastic containers. Usually the only heat source is heat tape and the only lighting is the room light.<br /><br />Geckos can do well in these environments. Most owners owner don’t wish to keep their new friends in a set up like this and choose glass tanks. There’s more decorating options and they can experience and interact with the reptile better. Problem is geckos don’t care for change. Glass may end up causing stress. This may increase if the daytime is brighter then what they’re used to.<br /><br />These night dwelling reptiles don’t care for bright lights. They prefer to hide when exposed to it. If you choose to still use a tank be sure to take precautions to help them adjust as easily as possible.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Tips&nbsp;</b><br /><br /><ul><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">If a bulb is used be sure it’s a nocturnal blue bulb. An under tank heat pad can also be used as a heat source.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Warm, dark, and humid hiding spot should be provide to make to feel secure.&nbsp;</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">For the first couple weeks don’t handle them often.&nbsp;</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">To help the gecko adjust to it’s new tank tape up black construction or cardboard to all the walls. Each week remove a piece. Within a month all sides will be removed.&nbsp;</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">Dietary changes can cause stress so keep them on the food type they’re used to.&nbsp;</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">If you’re adding a gecko to an already established group sure it’s separate for about a month to let it adjust. This also gives you time to watch for any health issues.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;">When placing it among other geckos be sure they’re all about the same size. Always keep an eye on food intake to be sure they’re all feeding and maintaining their weight. Do not put more then one male together no matter the size of enclosure.</span></li></ul><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Handling</b><br />Generally they are easy to handle. Although some tend to be flighty or may try to bite. They should be handled several times a week to help them get adjusted. Avoid handling them in a rough manner. They may stress out and drop tail. Crested will not grow back their tail if this happens.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Longevity</b><br />Relatively new to captivity it’s not known exactly how long these unique geckos live. It’s estimated that they will live an average of 10-15 years in ideal living conditions. Some may even live as long as 20 years.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Sexing</b><br />Until they are about 5 months old they can’t be accurately sexed. When they’re that age and about 15-20 grams in weight they begin to show characteristics that define their gender. Males develop large bulges at the base of their tails. If a bulge is present on females it’s only slight.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Breeding</b><br />Sexually mature at about 12-14 months of age these geckos are easy tot breed. However, do not attempt to breed them until they’re about 35-40 grams.<br /><br />Until it’s time to breed males need to be raised away from females. Once both are mature they can then be placed together. Be sure to keep an eye for any signs of aggression during this period. Do not place more then one male together as they’re extremely aggressive with each other.<br /><br />Late fall or early winter geckos should be put through a cool prior to breeding. If &nbsp;there’s a heat source on the cage it should be turned off. For about 6-8 weeks they should be kept in temps in the upper 60s. They may not eat as much but continue to feed them twice a week.<br /><br />When the room is back up to normal temps they should begin to lay eggs in their nest boxes. Usually every 3-6 weeks eggs will be laid. Up to 18 eggs are usually laid in one season. &nbsp;<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Incubation/Hatchling:&nbsp;</b><br />Check every other day for eggs in the nest boxes. Pure white with a solid feel are signs of a healthy egg. Any that are small or spongy are likely to be infertile.<br /><br />Place the eggs in a deli cup or small plastic container in about 1-2 inches of perlite or coarse grade vermiculite. Add water in a 1:1 ratio by weight. It must be moist enough to pack when a handful squeezed no water should drip.<br /><br />The eggs will take up too much water and mold if too moist. On the other hand if they’re too dry it’s likely they shrivel and dry up. It may take some practice to get the consistency correct.<br /><br />Place 1-2 tiny holes into the side of the container to provide fresh air. Anymore then that and moisture will be lost and it’ll kill the eggs. &nbsp; &nbsp;<br /><br />Incubating temps should be at about 74-80. Temps close to 80 will quicken the process. Typical “reptiles rooms” should be warm enough that the containers can be kept on a shelf. If the room is cooler then 74 a Hovabator incubator can be used. They’re relatively inexpensive and can be found at most reptile suppliers. Be sure they’re set up and calibrated before they’re needed.<br /><br />After 6-12 weeks the geckos will hatch. You can then set them up individually in plastic shoe boxes. Babies may be placed in small groups as long as they’re similar in size and there’s enough hiding places are provided. &nbsp;About 3-4 days after hatching they should start feeding. <br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Color and Pattern Morphs:&nbsp;</b><br />Crested Geckos come in many patterns and colors. Most of these are bright and vibrant.<br /><b>Color examples -</b> cream, red, orange, yellow, charcoal, brown, gray, tan, olive green.<br /><b>Pattern examples - </b>pattern less, bi-color, harlequin, fine striped, pinstriped, tiger-banded, Dalmatian-spotted<br /><b>Morphs - </b>Named by combining color and pattern. For example: Red Fire Dalmatian would be a red gecko with a fire stripe running down it’s back and Dalmatian spots.<br /><b>Polymorphic - </b>This means any combo of breeder can produce multiple color/pattern morphs in their offspring. <br />Selective breeding similar traits will most likely produce offspring with those traits. This process is just picking up. In time a lot of new morphs will be created.<br /><br /><br /><b>Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Crested Geckos. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.&nbsp;</b>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-8984678814392088942011-11-10T15:54:00.000-08:002011-11-11T10:14:57.696-08:00Degu (Octodon Degus)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-snzRcljEEaU/Tr1l9vW4JBI/AAAAAAAAASA/OiNwoDsAuZA/s1600/20111107121317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-snzRcljEEaU/Tr1l9vW4JBI/AAAAAAAAASA/OiNwoDsAuZA/s200/20111107121317.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><span style="background-color: transparent;"><br /></span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;"><br /></span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;">These small mammals are from Chile. They’re brown and look a lot like a squirrel or gerbil. Their latin name is Octodon Degus. This is because of the worn enamel surface on their teeth that forms a figure eight pattern.&nbsp;</span><br /><br />In their native home of Chile they live in large colonies and are agricultural pest. Whether these little critters are rodents is still up for debate. Originally they were brought to Europe and America for use in labs. Since they can’t digest sugars they were used in diabetes research. Recently they began being kept as pets. Since they’re not popular they’re still considered exotic pets and not many know much about them.<br /><br />These intelligent little critters make great pets because not only are they small but they’re easy to keep and friendly. When they’re taken care of properly they can live as long as ten years. The average however is about six or seven years.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Handling:</b><br />Tame Degu can be scooped into your hands. Be sure that you cup your hands slightly to prevent them from jumping. A jar can be used to transfer skittish Degu. They can also be lured with treats or Chinchilla bath dust which they can’t resist. Never grab a Degu by it’s tail. Losing a tail is not only painful but they are unable to grow it back.<br /><br />Handling them roughly or against their will may result in bites or scratches and breaks their trust. These smart animals have excellent memories and will remember how they’ve been handled and treated.<br /><br />New Degu don’t like feeling restrained and holding them for more then a few minutes at a time should be avoided. Allowing them to gain your trust and come to you is much better. You can do this by using their favorite treats as bribe and trust tools. Once a Degu is tame they usually enjoy sitting in your hand, sleeping in a hoodie, or perching on a shoulder.<br /><br /><b>Taming:</b><br />Degus are fairly easy to tame as they’re quite fearless and usually very inquisitive. The first few days talk to your Degu gently while offering it small treats. Once it’s used to you then you can leave your hand in the cage with a treat. In time your Degu should hop on your hand and eat the treat. Continue to do this for awhile until the Degu is comfortable with just sitting still in youor hand. Then you can try lifting your hand a little and putting it down. Once it’s okay with your hand moving you may begin slowing trying to move your hand out of the cage.<br /><br />Another bonding method is sitting in your bathtub and allowing the Degu to run around and climb on you. This is a good bonding method that helps them get used to you. Being very food motivated using treats is another good way to socialize them. Some people even recommend wearing an old shirt for awhile then placing it in the cage for the Degu to learn your scent. <br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Behavior:</b><br />Being social creatures they shouldn’t be housed alone. Living alone may cause depression, aggression, health issues, and shorter live spans.<br /><br />These athletic and energetic animals love to play, run, climb, and jump. To keep busy they should be given a lot of toys. Things to chew on such as flavored wood chews are also a good idea. Their teeth grow constantly throughout their lives so they need things to chew on to keep them worn down.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Degu communicate vocally and with body language.&nbsp;</b><br /><br /><ul><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Hair-raising- </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Alarmed and feels threatened. Usually only a behavior shown by a new Degu.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Squeaks- </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">&nbsp;Nervous or annoyed behavior. If frightened they may squeak for several minutes. Also if another grooms too roughly.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Chirping- &nbsp;</b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Communicate with each other. Also during courtship.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Squeal-</b> Pain or extreme upset.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Tooth chatter-</b><span style="background-color: transparent;"> Uneasy or annoyed.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Clucking- </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Social call used by young. Also when young ones are groomed.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Chuckle-</b> Call to young and used during grooming.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">"Chuck-Wee"-</b><span style="background-color: transparent;"> &nbsp;Greeting call. &nbsp;May use this to greet you.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Gurgle-</b> How &nbsp;baby communicates with parents and littermates.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Growl-</b><span style="background-color: transparent;"> Aggressive behavior, feels threatened.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Whimpers-</b><span style="background-color: transparent;"> Social call and way &nbsp;to keep track of everyone by whimpering back and forth.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Dust bathing- </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Dust baths to stay clean and to stay socially acceptable by having the same scent.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Grooming each other- </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Groom each other as a friendly gesture. Like each other. &nbsp;May even try to groom it’s owner.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Huddling and snuggling- </b>&nbsp;When bonded they will huddle together. Gives them sense of security. In groups they will sleep together in a huge pile.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Hops, jumping, running, and body twisting- </b>Playful behaviors indicates they’re happy. Especially in young ones.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Isolation cry- </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">A call young will use when separated from littermates.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Scent marking-</b><span style="background-color: transparent;"> Mark territory.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">"Boxing", Shoving- </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Arguing. Although aggressive you shouldn't worry &nbsp;unless you see bloodshed.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Post-copulatory squeaks-</b> After breeding males make squeaking sounds similar to a warning squeak repeatedly for about 5-15 minutes.&nbsp;</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Tail rump display- </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Defensive or submissive posture when facing an aggressive rival. Also in courtship.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Tail wagging-</b><span style="background-color: transparent;">&nbsp;</span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Alert or aroused. Will see this behavior during mating.</span></li></ul><br /><b>Housing:&nbsp;</b><br />Cages are better then tankjs as they allow air to circulate. Since Degu love to climb around on the bars a multi level cage is best. If a tank is used be sure that it’s large. The bare minimum would be 29 gallons. It’s also important that thy have plenty of toys and things to climb. Don’t forget they can jump very high and are escape artists so a secure screen lid is essential.<br /><br />Toys are ideal in keeping your Degu busy and healthy. They need something keep their teeth worn. Wooden blocks or sticks can be used for their teeth. Pumice stones can be helpful for not only the teeth but to help keep their nails short as well. Other items such as cardboard tubes, branches, flavored chews, bird toys and ladders are also fun ideas for your Degu.<br /><br />It’s recommended that you have more then one food dish as they often fight over food. Make sure these dishes are ceramic or some other chew proof material. Water bottles should be glass if hung inside the cage. Plastic ones can be used if you hang them outside of the cage. Remember Degu love to chew so anything and everything is a target for those teeth.<br /><br />Be sure they have some type of nest box or hut. Wooden ones work well. Another favorite item is a wheel. Remember not to buy the plastic type or they’ll chew it. However, be cautious of any that have large spacing between the wires as their tails may get caught. Shredded paper towels or paper can be used for nesting material. Some Degu may choose not to nest but you may want to offer these materials just in case.<br /><br />The bedding should be aspen or a paper based product such as Care Fresh or something similar. Cedar and Pine are not safe choice for these small animals. These products have been known to cause respiratory issues. Plenty of timothy hay should also be provided for them to chew on. Alfalfa is not a good idea as it contains too much calcium. A hay rack can be used to hold the hay or if you prefer to spread it around on the cage floor that is fine as well. Just know that if on the floor it’ll most likely need to be changed out more often.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Feeding:</b><br />There are some products available especially made for Degu like Brisky’s Diet or Sun Seed Sunscription Vita Degu Formula. However, they may not always easy to find. Be sure to check the ingredients of any food mix prior to feeding your Degu. Anything containing sunflower seeds, corn, fruit, molasses, &nbsp;high fat or sugar should be avoided. If you’re not able to find a diet specifically made for Degu you can feed them a mix of Guinea Pig and Chinchilla pellets.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Fresh vegetables should be fed daily.&nbsp;</b><br />Broccoli, romaine lettuce, parsley, carrot greens, escarole, zucchini, chicory, cucumbers, and celery.<br />Should avoid anything too high in calcium: mustard greens, dandelion greens, spinach, turnip greens, collard greens, alfalfa greens. <br />Carrots and cooked sweet potatoes without the skin can be fed once or twice a week as a treat.<br />Treats: dried carrot slices and sugar free cereals.<br />Occasional treats: sunflower seeds, corn, and walnuts.<br />Never feed: sugary or fatty foods, caffeine, chocolate, or alcohol.<br />Remember to always provide fresh water.<br />Provide unlimited supply of timothy hay.<br />Best to avoid fruits completely rather then risk too much sugar intake as they aren’t able to digest sugars properly.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Cleaning and Grooming:</b><br />Cleaning should be done at least once a week for a pair of Degu. If they tend to be messy you may have to clean more then once a week. Once a month an entire scrubbing of the cage, dishes, and toys should be done. If the Degu are litter trained then the litter box will need to be cleaned out at least every other day. Bedding should be changed once a month.<br /><br />Water should be changed every other day and the water and clean the bottle daily as they’re prone to mouth diseases.<br /><br />Although they groom themselves they’ll still need to have dust baths, A special Chinchilla dust can be purchased at any pet store. You simply pour some dust into a container and place it into the cage. The Degu will instinctively know how to use it. It’s not recommended that you leave it in longer then ten minutes or it’ll most likely be used as a toilet. Dust baths are needed at least once a week though they can have them daily.<br /><br />It’s essential for a Degu to have dust baths. It helps to keep their fur healthy. Some people leave the baths in the cage and change the dust daily. The Degu will use it like a litter box and it can make cage cleaning easier.<br /><br />Some Degus may need their nails clipped on occasion. A vet can show you how to safely do this. Nail clippers used for dogs or cats can be used. Simply clip the very tip of the nail that way you don’t risk clipping the quick. Teeth may need to be clipped by a vet if they don’t have anything to gnaw on.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Learning it’s name:&nbsp;</b><br />Always use their name when addressing the Degu. Stick with just their name and not nicknames. When you use their name and they respond by coming to you be sure to praise them and even give them a little treat. Repetition will result in them coming each time they’re<br />called.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Shoulder rides:</b><br />A difficult task that some may not learn. Once a Degu trusts you and climbs on your hand you can lure it up your arm with a treat. When it learns that part continue the teaching by luring them up to your shoulder. Again, reward the behavior with a beloved treat. While it enjoys the treat praise them for a job well done. If they enjoy being petted you can add that to their reward.<br /><br />If the Degu steals the treat and runs then you’ll have to hold it. Do this several times over the course of a week. If the Degu starts to get off your shoulder gently put it back on. Give it a treat once it sits still. Often they catch onto this trick quickly. &nbsp; <br /><br />The next step will be to walk around while they’re perched on your shoulder. Soon they’ll enjoy this new adventure. Always be cautious to prevent them from falling or jumping. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Litter training:</b><br />You can leave a dust bath in the cage and the Degu will use it as their litter box. Or you can purchase a small animal litter boxes and put the in the areas your Degu goes to the bathroom. Like most small animals it’ll be in a corner. To attract them you can put some hay in the boxes. When you see them using the boxes praise them. Place any stray droppings in the litter box to remind them where it’s supposed to go. Though many should catch on there will be some that just flat out refuse to ever properly use a litter box.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Exercise and Playtime:</b><br />Many Degus enjoy playing outside of their cage. Be sure you take care of any potential dangers before allowing them this bit of freedom. Electrical wires, plants, sharp objects and other chewable objects should be taken care of. Also be sure they can’t squeeze into small spaces, jump or fall off stuff, or climb out of your reach. Bathtubs are a good place to play. Exercise pens can also be used as well. Like with any animal they should never be left unsupervised.<br /><br />Include things to climb on, places to hide, and even their dust bath in their play area. They should be let out of their cage at least five days a week for about an hour or two. The smaller the cage the more time they should get outside of it.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Breeding:</b><br />Degu breeding is not recommended. They can produce a lot of offspring. You won’t be able to separate them after their first litter because they’ll be bonded. Both parents participate in the rearing of the babies.<br /><br />Females have a post partum estrus which means they can and will mate right after giving birth. This adds stress to the female and should be avoided.<br /><br />They are usually sexually mature between 9 and 14 months of age. Some have been known to begin as early as 6 months and some not until 21 moths. At 8-9 weeks the females can become pregnant by their father so it’s important that they be separated by that age.<br /><br />Gestation is about 90 days. Babies are born with fur and open eyes. The average litter is 5 babies but they can have twice that. It’s rare that there’s only 1 baby in a litter. In these rare cases that it does happen the baby usually doesn’t survive.<br /><br />There is not a lot of breeding information online. It’s best to either completely avoid breeding or seek help from a breeder. <br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Neutering:</b><br />This may not always be an option. Not only is this often expensive but many vets don’t have enough knowledge about these creatures so they won’t perform the procedure.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Diseases:</b><br />Usually they’re hardy animal. However, there is always a chance they may become ill.. Here’s a list of common issues to watch for. It’s best to consult an exotic vet if you ever have any issues.<br /><br /><ul><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Diabetes: </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Degus become diabetic by eating too much sugar. A diabetic degu will usually not last very long (though I've heard of degus living with diabetes for years). To prevent this from happening, don't feed your degu sugary foods. A degu that is drinking and/or urinating more then usual may be diabetic. Sometimes they will also get cataracts.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Liver Problems: </b>Caused by a bad diet or too many fatty foods.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Mouth Disease: </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Prone to mouth diseases. Their teeth will turn white which usually results in death. Change their water and wash the bottle often to help prevent this.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Cold: </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Not able to clear it’s nose or having trouble breathing. Antibiotics are needed to help prevent pneumonia.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Genetic Diseases:</b> Cataracts is a common due to inbreeding, &nbsp;Incurable but a good diet may help.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Parasites: </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">If scratching a lot check them for fleas, mites, or ticks. It may be an ear infection due to a mite infestation if the ears are painful to the touch or smell bad. Parasites can come from hay, bedding, or even other animals. A vet can give you medication to treat an outbreak. &nbsp;</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Wounds: </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Usually a result from fighting. Wound should heal on its own, You can put Neosporin on a wound to help prevent infection. However, if it’s large or doesn’t heal quickly a vet should check it.&nbsp;</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Broken leg: </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">May be a result from a bad jump. If a broken leg does occur you should contact your vet. Pain medication might be recommended. Be sure to keep the Degu calm and in a small one level cage with limited access to climbing while it heals.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Diarrhea: </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">Occurs when too many fresh veggies are fed. Stop feeding any fresh vegs or fruits for awhile and it should go away. Can be a sign of illness so keep a close eye on the situation. Contact a vet if the situation doesn’t clear up or other symptoms come up.&nbsp;</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Constipation: </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">The cause is unknown but it’s most likely due to a bad diet. This is very uncomfortable and causes depression. Some have been able to overcome the situation by massaging the belly with olive oil. If the situation doesn’t’ improve within a few hours go to the vet IMMEDIATELY.</span></li><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Tumors:</b><span style="background-color: transparent;"> If any tumors are found be sure to consult your vet.&nbsp;</span></li></ul><br /><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Degus. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.&nbsp;</b>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-27733399813270909192011-11-10T15:17:00.000-08:002011-11-11T10:29:43.192-08:00Bearded Dragon (Pogona Vitticeps)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mkqPpyKrHkI/Tr1oXBIxY-I/AAAAAAAAASI/61DNwkdEcMU/s1600/20111011014007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mkqPpyKrHkI/Tr1oXBIxY-I/AAAAAAAAASI/61DNwkdEcMU/s320/20111011014007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="background-color: transparent;"><br /></span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;">The “Inland Bearded Dragon” is native to eastern continental Australia. These days most dragons on the market are captive bred. They get their name from the pronounced beards that both the male and female have. The amazing beards are used in defense or during their mating rituals. Males typically have a darker beard that look pitch black. These days Dragons can come in an assortment of colors and morphs. From normal sandy color to red, yellow, orange, and gold hues.&nbsp;</span><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Temperament</b><br />These easy going generally docile lizards make excellent pets. If properly supervised they make wonderful pets for children. They’re relatively easy to care for. Though they may look intimidating with their prehistoric dinosaur appearance they’re usually quite tame and easy to handle. They are active during the day and sleep at night so their schedule can be easily adapted to yours. <br /><br />These interesting creatures seem to enjoy the attention from their humans. It’s not uncommon to see them pacing their tank and trying everything to get noticed. Though like any animal their personalities do vary some may be more personable then others. Overall these unique reptiles make a great addition no matter your experience with reptiles.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Size</b><br />Hatchlings are usually under 4 inches in length and weigh only about 1/10 of an ounce. Adults typically weigh about ¾ o a pound and reach about 19-23 inches long. Morphs like the German Giant are known to be a bit larger, coming in at about 26 inches in length.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Housing</b><br />Dragons are commonly kept in glass aquariums topped of with screen lids. Though some hobbyists and breeders may use custom wood or plastic cages. The wood is sometimes harder to clean. The light weight plastic is easier to clean but often costs a great deal more.<br /><br />For the first 4-6 months babies can be kept in 30 inch long tanks. If they’re kept in anything larger at that age it can sometimes cause problems. Finding it’s food, water, shelter, and basking shelter may pose an issue for the young dragons. However, as the young ones grow a larger enclosure will need to be used.<br /><br />For one to two adults it’s recommended that at the very minimum their enclosures should be 4ftx2ft. Tanks shouldn’t be any smaller then 6ftx18inches. Single adults shouldn’t be in anything smaller then your standard 55 gallon tank. Smaller tanks restrict activity and that’s not healthy for the dragon.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Substrate</b><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;">Depending on who you ask the answer on what the best substrate is varies. The best thing to do is seek advice from those with experience. Always do your research. Ultimately you must decide what works best for you while keeping the dragon’s safety in mind.&nbsp;</span><br /><br /><ul><li><b style="background-color: transparent;">Wood - </b><span style="background-color: transparent;">This bedding is not recommended since the crickets and other feeder bugs often find places to hide. This makes it difficult for the dragons to find their food source. Crickets will out during the night while your dragon is sleeping and harass it causing them stress.&nbsp;</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Sand or fine gravel - </b>Often used and recommended. This is the most natural substrate for your dragon. Cleaning is much easier then many other types. However, there is a risk of impaction so that needs to be considered.&nbsp;</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Rabbit or alfalfa pellets -</b> Also used by dragon owners. The downside of this type though is there’s a higher risk for mold. When the pellets get wet they crumble quickly and if not cleaned up quick enough mold can be an issue..</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Paper towels and newspaper -</b> This is a reasonably sage and cheap choice. Clean up is usually not difficult. It’s especially good to use for young dragons to prevent the possibility of impaction due to accidental ingestion.&nbsp;</span></li><li><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Reptile carpet -</b> Another popular choice. You can cut it to size. It gives a rather clean and neat look. However, that won’t last for long. The upside is it can be removed and washed frequently. Do be careful that’s there’s no loose ends that may pose a problem for your dragon.&nbsp;</span></li></ul><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b>Heating &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</b> &nbsp; &nbsp;</span><br />Bearded Dragons like many reptiles need to be properly warmed to properly digest their food and remain healthy. Though you can use heat pads to raise temps they enjoy basking under a light. You can buy the expense light bulbs in the pet stores. Unfortunately they often have a short lifespan. Many choose to use regular light bulbs. Not the new energy saving funky shaped ones that don’t give up much heat.<br /><br />Do not ever use heating rocks with dragons. Instead you can put a flat rock or logs to climb on. The dragon will sprawl on them and bask for hours. The basking area should be at one end of the tank. Dragons are desert animals so they enjoy the hot temperatures. However, too much is not good for them. It’s important that they have a cooler end so that they can regulate accordingly.<br /><br />On the cool side temps should be around 76 and at least 10 degrees or more on the warmer side. Basking area should be about 90-100. At night the temps can drop down to about low to mid 70s on the cooler side. If your home dips below that you may want to use another heat source such as a heat pad, ceramic heat emitter, or a colored night bulb especially made for reptiles. Do not use any bright lights at night as they need to have a light cycle about 12-14 hours. Timers can be used to ensure the dragon is getting the proper lighting cycle <br /><br />UVA/UVB lighting must also be used. It activates the synthesis of vitamin D3. This an important component for calcium and mineral absorption. UV rays are filtered out through glass so it’s important to place the bulbs above the tank. It’s been said that the screen tops also filter some of the rays as well. However, to protect your dragon from touching the lights or predators screens are most often used anyway. It’s also recommended that a UVA/UVB bulb be changed about every six months. You may choose to place your tank near a window for some natural lighting. Be careful to monitor the temps.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Cleaning</b><br />Cages should be spot cleaned daily. If you’re using sand then the waste can be easily scooped. Tank décor like logs and rocks should be wipe. Food bowls should be washed between each meal. At least once a week a complete clean up should be done.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Grooming</b><br />Being they’re reptiles they obviously don’t need grooming. They do enjoy their baths. Also misting daily can help keep their skin humidified and helps with the shedding process. Remember though to prevent the tank from being damp as it can lead to mold and health issues.<br /><br /><b>Feeding</b><br />Bearded Dragons need to be fed a combo of vegetables and live bugs. Some fruit can be used on occasion. The significant part of the diet should be vegetables. Hatchlings and Juveniles 10-25% and 30-50% for adults.<br /><br />Although the main choices especially for young dragons are dark leafy greens high in calcium and crickets variety is important. Mealworms, wax worms, and roaches can also be used as live food sources. It’s not recommended that you catch anything outside for your dragon. The risks to their health including death are too high. <br /><br />Make sure that any food you give your dragon is an appropriate sized. You can finely chop the greens and fruits. To help prevent choking and blockage while digesting be sure the food source is smaller then the width between the dragon’s eyes.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Foods Ideas</b><br />Apples<br />Apricot<br />Bananas<br />Blueberries<br />Cantaloupe<br />Figs<br />Grapes<br />Kiwi<br />Mango<br />Melon<br />Papaya<br />Peaches<br />Pears<br />Pomegranate Seeds<br />Strawberries<br /><span style="background-color: transparent;">Arugula&nbsp;</span><br />Basil<br />Beet Greens<br />Bok Choy<br />Carrots<br />Chard<br />Cilantro<br />Clovers<br />Collards<br />Dandelion<br />Escarole<br />Kale<br />Mustard Greens<br />Parsley<br />Parsnip<br /><span style="background-color: transparent;">Broccoli</span><br />Corn<br />Cucumbers<br />Green Beans<br />Green Peppers<br />Kidney Beans<br />Lima Beans<br />Okra<br />Peas<br />Squash<br />Sweet Potato<br />Turnip Greens<br />Watercress<br />Zucchini<br />Calendula<br />Cactus<br />Flowers<br />Grass<br />Hibiscus<br />Leaves<br />Rose Blossoms<br />Yucca Root<br />Crickets<br />Lobster Roaches<br />Mealworms<br />Phoenix Worms<br />Roaches<br />Wax Worms<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Exercise</b><br />If your dragon’s enclosure is large enough it should provide adequate room for exercise.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Life Expectancy</b><br />5-8 years, some have even made it to 12<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Health Problems</b><br />For the most part Bearded Dragons are quite healthy. If they’re given the proper care and food they can live without any issues. However, there are some health problems to be aware of.<br /><br />Calcium/D3 deficiency<br />Respiratory infections<br />Internal parasites and mites<br />Gastro infections<br />Pseudomona<br />Cocidia<br />Partial paralysis associated with hind leg extension<br />Egg Binding<br /><br />Also be aware that if you house multiple baby dragons together it’s not uncommon for tail, toes, and fingers to be nipped. Dragons can’t regenerate these body parts so if they’re lost in the struggle is permanent.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Sexing</b><br />Until Bearded Dragons are about a year old they are often very difficult to tell females from males. At this age they are sexually mature and it’s easier to determine gender.<br /><br />Males have triangular shaped heads. Their femoral pores (dots on the hind legs) are larger. Also two bumps on the tail near the vent can be seen.<br /><br />Females heads are more narrow. Their personalities are often different then males. When they come in contact with another dragon they often wave instead of bob. Although both genders do these actions. Instead of two bumps near the vent they have one it’s more in the center versus on both sides.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Gestation</b><br />Males and females shouldn’t be housed together until they’re at least two years of age. If you’re not planning to breed them they shouldn’t be housed together at all.<br /><br />The bones of the female dragon have not developed enough to withstand the loss of calcium and they’d have problems passing their eggs easily. Eggs are often reabsorbed and it’s not evident whether they had produced any. Some eggs may be creamy yellow in color and odd shaped. The abnormal eggs may end up binding up in the dragon. Due to these high risks females shouldn’t be bred unless they’re at least 2 years old.<br /><br />February is usually the time of year dragons mate. The gestation period is about five weeks. Couple weeks prior to laying eggs the female will need some type of sand peat mixture to place her eggs. Typically they’ll lay about 20-30 eggs. For about 65-75 days the eggs should be incubated at about 82-84 degrees. The eggs will start to collapse about 24 hours before they’re due to hatch. <br /><br />Baby dragons should be in the incubator for about 24 hours to allow for the absorbing of the yolk sac. Within 72 hours they’ll then start to feed. Pinhead crickets are ideal for this age.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Picking your Bearded Dragon</b><br />Be careful when choosing your future friend. Whether you choose to buy from a breeder or a pet store take your time. Dragons should be alert and active. If they are lethargic it’s a good chance something is wrong. Beardies bright alert eyes seem to always be watching what’s going on around them with great interest.<br /><br />Keep an eye open for any sores, external parasites, burns, or deformities. Their eyes, mouths, and noses need to be gunk and pus free. It’s not uncommon to have nips but this shouldn’t cause any issues if the wounds are healed and don’t show signs of infection. Take in consideration the size of the dragon. If they’re too small or fragile looking they may stress easily causing health issues.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Common Behaviors</b><br />Dragons are predators and prey in their natural environment. Their basic defense is hide, to blend in with their environment, and always be alert to possible threats. <br /><br />If dragons feel threatened or anxious they stand perfectly still. If they’re in real danger they either scamper away or they attack. Their attacks are impressive with wide mouths and puffed beards. Last resort they can and do bite hard.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Waving - </b>In a multiple dragon home it’s not uncommon to see them wave their front arms at each other. This is their form of social signaling. Solitary beardies may do it as well.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Flattening Out - </b>When they are warming up they may lie horizontally and spread out their abdomen to increase surface size. This typically isn’t a big deal. However, if the dragon is doing this often it may mean they can’t get close enough to their heating lamp. You can make him a shelf or perching area so that they can get closer.<br /><br /><b>Mouth Gaping -&nbsp;</b><span style="background-color: transparent;">If a dragon is standing with it’s mouth open in a non defensive way it may mean they’re too hot. They can cool off a little by doing this. This is not their preferred way to cool. If you that they’re doing this often it means their enclosure is too warm. You can replace the heat lamp with a lower wattage. If after that is done and it’s still doing this it could be a sign of respiratory illness. It’s recommended that you seek a vet quickly<b>.&nbsp;</b></span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;"><b><br /></b></span><br /><b>Rubbing -</b>&nbsp;<span style="background-color: transparent;">Sometimes they rub or scratch themselves against sticks or rocks. This is often done to help loose pieces of shedding skin. Try misting the dragon with water if you see this behavior. This should help with the shedding process.&nbsp;</span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent;"><br /></span><br /><b>Hiding and Burrowing -&nbsp;</b><span style="background-color: transparent;">At night they like to hide during the night or when they need to cool down. Dragons may also burrow into their substrate if it’s thick enough. Branches and food dishes may also act as a hiding place. As long as the dragon makes appearances during the day to warm up it’s normal. In the winter it may be a sign they want to brumate.&nbsp;</span><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Handling</b><br />Dragons are smaller and have a more predictable behavior then many other reptiles. Combined this makes them a great choice for any expertise level. Handling them safely and careful helps them become comfortable with you. This also makes them friendlier. To keep them comfortable in your presence they need to be handled daily. Start out gradually and don’t overdo it.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>How&nbsp;</b><br />Let them hold you. Gently grasp under the chest and midsection behind forelegs. Be sure to keep your hand open partially so that the dragon can step on you with it’s back feet. Allow them step onto your arm, shoulder, or other hand.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Handling tail</b><br />Never handle dragons by their tail. Always use caution when closing lids and doors. Their delicate tails can get injured and they won’t grow back.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Hand feeding</b><br />Another good way to build a relationship with your dragon is teach them to feed from your hand. You can start by offering them a large piece of &nbsp;their favorite greens. Allow the dragon to take bites of the leaf but don’t allow him to take it. After several days offer smaller and smaller pieces. Be sure keep your grip. In time the Dragon should learn to ignore your hand completely while enjoying their food. Don’t hand feed every single time or it may lead to your dragon being reluctant to each from their dish.<br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Sanitation</b><br />Remember to always wash with soap and water after handling any reptile. Bearded Dragons are no exception to this. Washing your hands thoroughly after cleaning their cages and waste is very important. Diseases like salmonella and cryptosporidiosis can be spread from dragon to person. Stressed or ill dragons can have an increased chance of harboring disease organisms in their droppings. Be sure to especially cautious when caring for sick or injured dragons.<br /><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for these reptiles. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.&nbsp;</b><br /><div><br /></div>Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-128946524186923855.post-49707713418384029772011-11-10T15:04:00.000-08:002011-11-10T15:06:15.159-08:00IntroductionThis page was created in honor of all my critters. (Hence the name.) I've got several pages that cater to specific dog breeds/types. It seemed only fitting that this one was catered towards all the species/breeds that we have in our family. I've done research and made up some care sheets. I'll also share pictures and other random stuff eventually.<br /><br />I love to learn and research things that interest me. This is especially true when it comes to any animals that I have an interest in. Whether I've always owned them, just now got them, or plan /hope to in the future research is important to me. You can never know everything and I truly believe that a good pet parent is always seeking the latest helpful information.<br /><br />The world is filled with homeless animals due to people not following through or even teaching &nbsp;themselves what the needs are of &nbsp;their newest addition. Please don't allow this to happen to any of your beloved critters. Continue to teach yourself. They can only prosper from your continued knowledge.Carriehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05593819969840185482noreply@blogger.com0