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This is a comprehensive Patagonia highlights holiday exploring the indigo lakes, ancient woodland and snow-capped volcanoes of the lake district. Further south are the ice caps, glaciers, jagged mountains and lakes at the tip of the Andes in Chile and Argentina. This adventure includes a visit to the cathedral-high Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina, and Torres del Paine National Park, Chile’s best loved and well-established reserve.

While the lake district in northern Patagonia has lakeside resorts and many visitors in summer, there are little seen fairyland forests and lonely roads carving their way through a virgin landscape. The south is, in parts, a true wilderness, where just a few rough roads cut through a frost-bitten landscape of glaciers, lagoons, icy pinnacles and steppe, Patagonia is nevertheless readily accessible to visitors.

Holiday itinerary

Day 1

Arrive in Santiago. Transfer to hotel, afternoon half day walking city tour.

Day 2

Full day excursion to vineyards of Maipo Valley.

Day 3

Transfer to Valparaiso.

Day 4

Half day walking tour of Valparaiso.

Day 5

Fly to Puerto Montt, by road to Puerto Varas.

Day 6

Full day excursion to Chiloé Island, visit the Puñihuil penguin colony.

Santiago and the vineyards

With a backdrop of snow-draped Andean peaks in a sunny fertile valley, Chile’s huge capital lies at the heart of the country. A multi-layered place of contrasting neighbourhoods it is worth getting to know.

There’s a tiny colonial heart which displays an often poignant history, offset by the glittering malls, skyscrapers and shady boulevards of a modern economy. Interspersed are European-style centres for shopping and eating out such as Italianate Bellavista and newly vibrant, villagey localities among which is trendy Lastarría. The surrounding Mediterranean landscape is the perfect setting for vineyards and wineries producing Chile’s well respected wines.

When's the best time to visit Santiago and the vineyards?

Santiago has a hot dry summer and cool winters with some rain and even snow. Spring and autumn (Sep-Oct and Apr-May) are pleasant times for a city visit. The vineyards are at their prettiest in spring (Sep-Oct) but a visit may be most interesting at harvest time (Mar-Apr).

What is the official language in Santiago and the vineyards?

Spanish.

How can I get local currency in Santiago and the vineyards?

Chilean Peso. Notes can be withdrawn from the many ATMs using a UK credit or debit card. Limits may be lower than your UK bank allows. There are also many banks and money exchanges (casas de cambio) where you can exchange US dollars cash; rates for euros and sterling are harder to find and frequently poor.

What's the time difference between Santiago and the vineyards and UK?

GMT -4 hours. Sometimes daylight saving is observed in the summer, from Sep/Oct to early Mar.

Valparaiso and Vina del Mar

Drive from Santiago northwest through the coastal cordillera and you arrive at these two Pacific towns: one a historic and busy port, the other a beach resort. Valparaiso’s aspect and atmosphere differ totally from the capital. Shoals of crammed painted houses career down vertiginous hillsides, accessed by wooden lifts and staircases. These hilltop quarters now offer boutique hotels and chic and interesting restaurants. Down below the port area’s heavy Victorian-style architecture recalls an era when British influence was strong. A few kilometres north is the resort of Viña del Mar, historically chic but now a popular family seaside spot and commercial town.

When's the best time to visit Valparaiso?

Valparaiso and Viñahave a hot dry summer and cool winters with some rain. Spring and autumn (Sep - Oct and Apr - May) are pleasant times for a city visit; summertime (Dec - Mar) the best time for the beaches which can be crowded with visitors.

What's the official language in Valparaiso?

Spanish.

How do I get local currency in Valparaiso?

Chilean Peso. Notes can be withdrawn from the many ATMs using a UK credit or debit card. Limits may be lower than your UK bank allows. There are also many banks and money exchanges (casas de cambio) where you can exchange US dollars cash; rates for euros and sterling are harder to find and frequently poor.

What's the time difference between Valparaiso and UK?

GMT -4 hours. Sometimes daylight saving is observed in the summer, from Sep-Oct to early Mar.

What places combine well with Valparaiso?

Santiago, vast multi-layered capital, 106 km (2 hours by road); a stay at one of the vineyards in the Colchagua, Maipo and Casablanca valleys, 177 km by road.

How do I get to Valparaiso?

It’s a 2 hour drive on a fast highway from Santiago to either destination.

What are the festivals and cultural events in Valparaiso?

New Year: Valparaiso: 3 days of festival attended by over a million visitors, with a firework display on the bay.

International Music Festival: Viña del Mar, a week in Feb. This event once attracted stars of international renown, nowadays it is more a showcase for aspiring Latin American pop stars.

Chilean Lake District (south)

Chile’s lake district is a picturesque region of ancient forests straddling rugged hills lorded over by snow-capped volcanoes, hot springs and crystalline streams, interspersed by flowery meadows and cattle pasture.

The southern part of the region includes the Bavarian-style resort Puerto Varas on the shores of the vast lake Llanquihue, overlooked by the perfect cone of the Osorno volcano. Not far from here are the Petrohue Falls, a popular break in the journey for visitors on the Lakes Crossing route to Argentina. Puerto Montt is a large town with a busy fishing port from where it’s a short ferry ride to the deeply traditional island of Chiloe.

When's the best time to visit Chile south Lake District?

The southern lake district has a temperate climate, with plenty of warm sun but also showers in summer, while winters (May-Aug/Sep) can be cool and very rainy. Dec-Mar is very crowded with local holiday-makers. If you prefer a less lively atmosphere, spring and autumn (Mar-Apr, Oct-Nov) are good choices.

What's the official language of Chile south Lake District?

Spanish.

How do I get local currency in Chile south Lake District?

Chilean Peso. Notes can be withdrawn from ATMs in Puerto Varas and Puerto Montt using a UK credit or debit card. Limits may be lower than your UK bank allows. There are also many banks and money exchanges (casas de cambio) where you can exchange US dollars cash at a lower rate; rates for euros and sterling are harder to find and also frequently poor.

What's the time difference between Chile south Lake District and UK?

GMT -4 hours. Sometimes daylight saving is observed in the summer, from Sep-Oct to early Mar.

What places combine well with Chile south Lake District?

The northern lake district, centred on Pucón or Villarrica (5-6 hours by car); the Argentine lake district via the Lake Crossing from Bariloche in Argentina’s lake district to Puerto Varas; the wilderness Aisén region of glaciers, fjords and islands to the south (drive from Puerto Montt down the Carretera Austral or fly to Coyhaique from Puerto Montt (1 hour 47mins); Torres del Paine in Patagonia (fly from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas, 2 hours 12mins).

How do I get to Chile south Lake District?

There are flights from Santiago to Puerto Montt (1 hour 40mins). Drive south from Pucón or Villarrica in 5-6 hours (322km).

Back to list of places visited

Argentine lake district

It’s part of Patagonia, but with a touch of Switzerland or Scandinavia. Argentina shares a picture-book-perfect lake district with Chile on the other side of the Andes, linked by one of the continent’s most exquisite passes, the Lakes Crossing. It’s a popular yet unspoilt region of sleeping snow-stifled volcanoes, dark sapphire lakes fringed by dense forests, small Alpine-style towns and scenic drives. Its multitude of national parks offer outdoor activities from hiking to fishing and cycling to horse riding. There’s a European-style cuisine of fondues, creamy cakes and cool blond Bavarian-inspired beers.

When's the best time to visit the lake district of Argentina?

The main towns of the lake district are full of visitors in the summer months Dec-Feb, when the weather is at its best. Mar-Apr and Sep-Nov can be lovely seasons with rich autumn colours and blossoms respectively, and the towns and hotels won’t be bursting at the seams. Winter (Jul-Aug) is the ski season.

What's the official language in the lake district of Argentina?

Spanish.

How do I get local currency in the lake district of Argentina?

Argentine Peso. Notes can be withdrawn from the many ATMs along calle Mitre in Bariloche and calle San Martín in the town of San Martín, using a UK credit or debit card. Limits may be lower than your UK bank allows.

What's the time difference between the lake district of Argentina and the UK?

GMT -3 hours. Sometimes daylight saving is observed in the summer, but this is announced ad hoc on a year-on-year basis.

What other places combine well with the lake district of Argentina?

Chile’s lake district, a full day trip by boat and road across the Andes;Mendoza in the wine producing region, twice weekly flights (1hr 45mins;El Calafate and Ushuaia in southern Patagonia, sporadic service in summer only (1hr 40mins) or via Buenos Aires.

How do I get to the lake district of Argentina?

There are many daily flights from Buenos Aires to Bariloche (2hrs 10mins) and 3 flights a week from the capital to San Martín (2hrs 20mins).

Back to list of places visited

El Calafate and Los Glaciares National Park

The vast ice fields in Los Glaciares National Park, southern Patagonia, are a primeval wilderness from which flow 13 huge glaciers into the waters of lakes Viedma and Argentino. Visitors can only see a small part of it, from bases which are surprisingly accessible, but get a real sense of the remoteness of this unpopulated region. The emerald beech forest and the wind-strafed steppes framing the ice add to the landscape’s beauty. El Calafate is a small lakeside town with tourist facilities which still has a frontier feel. It’s the base for visits to the Perito Moreno, Upsala and Onelli glaciers.

When's the best time to visit El Calafate and Los Glaciares National Park?

Weather-wise it’s best to visit in the summer (Dec-Feb) when days are long and mild, but at this time – especially Jan – the area is very crowded with both Argentine and foreign visitors. Mar/Apr or Sep/Oct can be sunny and clear, but it can be windy. In the winter months Jun-Aug it is very cold and access routes can be blocked by snow. Many facilities are closed then, too.

What's the official language in El Calafate?

Spanish.

How do I get local currency in El Calafate?

Argentine Peso. There are a couple of banks with ATMs accepting foreign cards. Limits may be lower than your UK bank allows. There are also some money exchanges (casas de cambio) where you can exchange US dollars cash but rates are not good; you may be better off changing money in Buenos Aires or another large city before heading to El Calafate.

What's the time difference between El Calafate and the UK?

GMT -3 hours. Sometimes daylight saving is observed in the summer, but this is announced ad hoc on a year-on-year basis.

What places does El Calafate and Los Glaciares National Park combine with?

Torres del Paine National Park

Torres del Paine National Park in southern Patagonia is the pinnacle of Chile’s natural landscapes, fast becoming one of the world’s most popular places for walking holidays. Cuernos del Paine is a granite massif which has been sliced apart into needle-sharp spires by glaciers. Beyond are the vertical triple towers of the Torres del Paine. Wind-battered grasslands lead up to sheltered glacial valleys with flowery meadows; torrential rivers surging with ice are interlaced with glassy lagoons. Wildlife abounds everywhere, from geese to guanaco; condors and puma may be spotted, especially in the low winter season from April to October.

When's the best time to visit Torres del Paine NP?

The best months for hiking are Mar-Apr. Many hikers also visit in summer (Dec - Jan) along with non-trekkers so it can be very busy at that time. Days are long and mild then but it can be windy, as in spring (Sep - Oct). For non-hikers, a visit at any time is recommended outside the winter months Jun - Aug when it can be very cold and access routes can be blocked by snow. On the other hand, it is frequently less windy in winter and you have a better chance of spotting wildlife as there are few tourists around. Many facilities are closed then; however, each year, a few more stay open to cater for this off-season traffic.

What's the official language in Torres del Paine NP?

How canI get local currency in Torres del Paine NP?

What's the time difference between Torres del Paine NP and UK?

GMT -4 hours. Sometimes daylight saving is observed in the summer.

What other places combine with Torres del Paine NP?

Puerto Natales, picturesquely located town on Last Hope Sound which still has a frontier feel, famous for its black-necked swans, 3 hours by road; El Calafate in the Parque Nacional de los Glaciares, Argentina (to visit the Perito Moreno glacier), 425km (7 hours scenic drive); the Aisén Region, a wilderness of little-visited forests and rivers north of the park, 4.5 hours drive to Punta Arenas then 1.5 hours by air the Chilean lake district (2 hours away by air from Punta Arenas).

How do I get to Torres del Paine NP?

Daily flights from Santiago take 3 hours 50mins to Punta Arenas, thence it is 3-5 hours by road to Torres del Paine.

Things to do on this holiday

Southern Lakes Crossing

Walking tour of Valparaiso, Chile

Visit Chiloe's penguins

Discover the traditions of Chiloe island

Historic Santiago walking tour

Wine tour of the Central Valley

Boat Trip to Glacier Grey

Day walks in Torres del Paine National Park

Visit Mount Tronador

Visit the Perito Moreno glacier

Our favourite way to cross between Argentina and Chile is via this passage through the lakes, very much a highlight in its own right.

Bavarian Bariloche, with its pointed steeples, ski resorts and chocolate shops, marks one end of the lake crossing, while on the Chilean side you’ll arrive at the town of Puerto Varas with its backdrop of snow-capped volcanoes. In between, a wonderland of aquamarine lakes penetrates the Andean mountain chain that forms a natural border between the two countries.

You’ll cross this region by boat and road over the course of a mesmerising day’s journey. Passing the broad, crystalline cascade of Petrohue Falls, you travel across lakes reminiscent of Scandinavian fjords as ever-changing mountain landscapes peer over the horizon.

Charismatic Valparaiso is a tumbledown maze of colourful buildings scattered across hilly slopes on the edge of the ocean. It has a marked bohemian feel that has long attracted poets and artists, and its meandering streets lined with multicoloured corrugated iron houses have a charm that’s all Valparaiso’s own.

Our walking tour begins at the main pier, passing into Plaza Sotomayor to visit the surrounding historical buildings and an underground mausoleum to Chile’s naval martyrs.

The best way to get around is via a quirky network of funiculars, and you’ll ride a number of them as we journey up and down Valparaiso’s hillside neighbourhoods to uncover hidden corners, small galleries and all the most photogenic viewpoints.

This rewarding and varied excursion includes a visit to the world’s only mixed colony of Humbolt and Magellanic penguins, a stop at a Spanish fortress and of course plenty of magnificent Patagonian scenery along the way. The penguins are normally present between November and March.

You’ll reach the rural Patagonian isle of Chiloé via road and ferry, arriving at the colourful fishing village of Ancud with its historically significant fortress, one of few such sights in the southern cone.

Drive inland through a landscape of valleys and rolling green pastures towards the island’s rugged west coast, with its deserted beaches, quiet farmlands and temperate forest. Visit the penguin colony at Puñihuíl, where two species of penguins nest side by side.

We’ll whisk you back to Puerto Varas via the sweepingly beautiful bay at Mar Brava and a small, traditional fishing village where you can sample Chiloé’s renowned fresh oysters.

Steeped in rural traditions and unique island folklore,the island of Chiloé is one of the richest examples of Patagonian culture and a fascinating complement to the region’s more famous natural attractions. No fewer than 16 Unesco World Heritage wooden churches add vibrant splashes of brightly painted magic to the island's deep green landscapes. Although you can visit Chiloé on a long day trip from Puerto Varas or
Puerto Montt, we recommend at least couple of nights' stay to enable this
damp, misty island work its charms.

Most visitors reach the island by road and local ferry (although a new airport has also opened as modernity takes root). An unmissable stop is Chiloé’s capital,
Castro, which has a long history and a photogenic waterfront lined with
brightly painted palafito homes hovering over the lake on
wooden stilts. Visit the town’s market and distinctive shale churches
with their surprisingly Nordic aspect. Head through rugged mountainous terrain to the port of Dalcahue where there's a handicraft fair selling souvenirs and the thick woollen clothing you’ll see all over the island. Another village you may visit is Qemchi, where you cross by a rickety 500m footbridge to tiny Isla Aucar. Its small botanical garden is a sanctuary of native flora planted by the priest who managed the island's 19th century chapel.

The current capital of Chile was born where a Spanish conquistador founded the settlement of Santiago de Nueva Extremadura in 1541 – laying the foundations for its eventual evolution into the present-day metropolis of 5 million people.

Explore the main square and the cathedral, neatly juxtaposed with the glass frontages of skyscrapers and visit the government palace La Moneda. Alongside its earlier history, you’ll become aware of the violent coup that emanated from here in 1973, installing the brutal military regime of General Pinochet.

The National Historic Museum is worth a look as are two of Santiago’s oldest and most stately neighbourhoods, Republica and Concha y Toro.

The sun-drenched vineyards of the Central Valley are a picture of rural serenity, yet lie within remarkably easy reach of the capital. On a relaxed daytrip from Santiago we can take you into the heartland of Chile’s wine-growing region to visit one or two of our favourite wineries: historic properties where grand estate houses overlook landscaped grounds and rolling hills.

But of course the main attraction is what’s in their cellars – Chile’s finest wines are produced here and you’ll have a chance to sample a few of them for yourself. A winery tour will also introduce you to the wine-making process and the viticultural heritage of this fertile valley.

One of the best ways to see Torres del Paine National Park is by boat, and this justly popular journey to the awe-inspiring Grey Glacier shows why.

The boat will navigate a course through the vivid blue icebergs that crowd Lago Grey before taking you right up to the face of the enormous glacier. Reminiscent of Argentina's famous Perito Moreno, this is a monumental ice field extending almost as far as the eye can see and fronted by a cracking, calving wall of azure pinnacles.

Torres del Paine National Park is a trekkers' paradise, offering up an endless array of Patagonian scenery that will leave you speechless with wonder and awe. In just a single day, you can delve deep into its wild reaches and gaze upon some of the park's most beautiful and iconic natural landmarks.

One such trek is to the base of the Torres del Paine massif, with its crown of monumental spikes thrusting skyward. This is the centrepiece of the park and the close-up view you can gain on foot more than merits the steep climb.

For a more panoramic perspective, the trek to the French Valley skirts glassy lagoons with the Cuernos del Paine rising up over the horizon to arrive at an extraordinary amphitheatre of vertical peaks. You can also trek to the enormous Grey glacier within a day, passing glassy lagoons, sheltered glacial valleys and wild flower meadows.

From Bariloche, a scenic road winds along the lakeshore to emerge from dense forest at Ventisquero Negro, a ‘black’ glacier formed by the mixing of ice with crushed rock. You’ll pass Lago Mascardi, where a rich variation of hues from sea green through turquoise to deep blue has earned it the nickname, ‘Lake of Seven Colours’.

Continue to the base of Tronador Mountain, known as the ‘Thunderer’ because of the vast ice and rock slides that can frequently be seen and heard here. Before returning to Bariloche there is time to climb to the Los Alerces waterfall, where glacial meltwater crashes down into a jade river.

Draped between Patagonian peaks and rising 60m from an ice-bound arm of Lago Argentino, Perito Moreno is an awe-inspiring sight. It is one of the few glaciers still advancing, and covers an area so vast that the eye struggles to take it all in.

It’s common to see massive hunks of ice calve break off from the glacier and crash into the lake below, forming vivid blue icebergs. You can witness the spectacular show from the walkways and viewing platforms that offer panoramic views of the glacier’s southern flank.

You could also take an hour-long cruise beneath the towering glacier will take you almost within touching distance of its sapphire pinnacles.

Accommodation on this holiday

Zero Hotel

Hotel Cumbres Puerto Varas

Ismael 312

Hotel Las Torres

Hotel Cacique Inacayal

Kosten Aike Hotel

Once neglected and even shabby, Valparaiso has undergone a facelift in the past few years, as elegant 19th and early 20th century houses and mansions are converted into boutique hotels to accommodate increasing numbers of visitors drawn to this atmospheric port city.

Zero is one of these: a converted residence on a quiet street with wonderful views over the harbour. It has a great mixture of classic and contemporary styles: the outside is vibrantly painted in baby-blue with white-painted shutters. Inside, stylish furnishings and bold colour schemes blend with high ceilings, wooden floors and lovely old bay windows.

The nine individually-decorated rooms are furnished with Egyptian cotton linen, LCD cable television and private bathroom. It is within easy walking distance of numerous places to eat and drink. Meanwhile the hotel's breakfast room has super views of Valparaiso, its wooden floors, and glass-top tables adding to a bright and airy feel. A restaurant opened in early 2018 and serves dinner every day except Wednesday. Outside are beautiful patios, wooden walkways and sun-decks, with comfy wicker furniture and terrace gardens.

The first class Cumbres Patagónicas is an imposing, relatively large hotel built in a typical Patagonian style of wood and stone with a pitched roof. There are glorious panoramic views from its position on a hillock overlooking Lake Lanquihue and Osorno volcano in Chile’s idyllic lake district, while central Puerto Varas is only 5 minutes' walk from the property along the lakeshore.

Rooms are furnished in neutral colours and equipped with all mod cons. Some have a balcony, and large windows make the most of the views. An abundance of local wood has been used to create furnishings and décor with a regional ambience.

There's a wonderful lounge with open fires, sheepskin rugs, sofas and huge windows overlooking the lake. The adjacent restaurant has similar views and the food and service are very good. There is also a small indoor swimming pool on the top floor.

Ismael 312 is the epitome of a contemporary concept in accommodation for visitors – the lifestyle hotel, offering a bit more than just a place to eat, sleep and relax.

Ismael 312 is a sleek, ultra-modern property reflecting the experience of urban-living in one of Santiago's up and coming, arty residential neighbourhoods.

In keeping with the aspired-to boutique ambience, the personalised service is excellent. The uncompromisingly minimalist interior features kooky chalk boards as walls and a glass-sided staircase - there is also a pleasant outside seating area where you can view the hustle and bustle of city life. All rooms are feature contemporary amenities such Wifi. The hotel, which offers parking and bikes to rent, faces the leafy Parque Forestal close to the historic centre and is within walking distance of cafés, restaurants, galleries and museums.

Hotel Las Torres is a remote lodge and former cattle ranch just below the dramatic, vertical 'towers' of the Torres del Paine massif – there is no more iconic location in Patagonia. It is very well run and organised, operating packages with meals, excursions and road transfers all included.

Some rooms are a bit chintzy, others have a bold colour scheme or are furnished in light wood, but all are warm and cosy. There is a spacious lounge area with large picture windows to fully take advantage of the mountain scenery. Wood-burning stoves provide heating and the central focal point for chilly evenings. There is also a restaurant which uses ingredients from the lodge's own vegetable garden and a small spa offering sauna, massage, reflexology and mud therapy.

The lakeside Hotel Cacique Inacayal, a mix of classic design and smart modern style, makes the most of its spectacular location with an abundance of scenic viewpoints, both in and out of doors. All guestrooms have lake views, and wall-to-wall windows offer up enticing panoramas from the restaurant, lounge, wine bar and indoor swimming pool – even the gym enjoys a breathtaking vista. There's also a very attractive outdoor deck where you can unwind with a drink or snack as you look out over the shimmering sapphire waters of Nahuel Huapi and onwards to its crown of snow-flecked peaks.

Larger than it appears from the outside, the hotel has eight mezzanine-style floors, over which the neutrally furnished guestrooms are distributed. Each has a Jacuzzi tub. The hotel is just a 10-minute walk from the town centre but has the advantages of a quieter and more natural location; it even has a small private beach.

The Kosten Aike Hotel is a couple of blocks from the main street of the Patagonian resort town of El Calafate on the shores of Lake Argentino. It’s a smart, modern place, and its sloping roofs and exterior wooden balconies give the building a charming alpine feel.

The bright rooms are decorated in cosy, contemporary style with heating, cable TV and modern en suite facilities. There are artistic details and motifs from the local Tehuelche indigenous culture featured all over the property.

There is a dining room, kitchen and bar on the first floor, and a stone-flagged living room with sofas and a large open fireplace. On the top levels are a gym and spa, with a Jacuzzi, sauna and massage area.

Speak to an expert Travel Consultant or send us your enquiry today.

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