Okay, going to edit the reproduction thing in the hubcap post. Not only are the ones I compared smaller top to bottom on the wings of the bowtie, I measured them with a dial caliper and the poor repop is much taller in the center. Heres all three. Original on left, the "Good" reproductions in the center and the currently available far right.

For the bowtie wings I will call them
Original measures .593
GOOD reproduction .500
Poor reproduction .463

You can see now why the poor reproductions look so disproportioned. Also notice the ridge around the center is more rounded compared to the poor reproduction thats more pointed. Fine for many street trucks but this is a restoration thread. Hate to sound so over critical but that bowtie sucks !

It was really hard to tell on that second one because of poor pictures, but the master cylinder looked totally wrong and Im thinking the booster was something else other than truck and in the wrong box. Normally these kits did not have a master cylinder with them. The biggest part of that last sale going so cheap was, it was missing most the hardware , like the aluminum shim and pedal pad etc.

I didn't see that but I guess if the hardware wasnt there, that's the most important part.

I can add a bit of information for this thread in regards to the Hubcaps. In 1960, the correct hubcap for the GMC trucks was the 1957-1959 GMC caps.This was because when the 1960 model year was rolled out, GMC either forgot to design a new cap or it was not ready for production. The caps changed in 1961. I put the 1959 caps on my '60 as the early sales ads show them this way.

Thank you Jake . That's partially correct. The hubcap you posted is the same in design , yes. For 1960 AND 1961 GMCs , GMC grouped both years together as the "N" series . Both 1960 and 1961 received the same version hubcap with a paint change of a blue a center and blue outer ring accent. This is spelled out in the GMC parts books , dealer literature and data books. GMC did many things different than Chevrolet even though they are subtle differences , they make it a little tough sometimes.

i have a 1966 chevy c10 inline 6 and have a big issue. this truck was barned for 15 years and I just got it running, well kind of. I put a new carb on(1bbl rodchester) and new fuel line along with a new sending unit. I also put in new plugs and points, cap, rotor, timed it to 4 degrees advanced and it now will start takes some turning over but will start and idle but when I try driving it it wont come up to speed it just boggs down cant pull its own weight. what could be causing this? please help done all i can think of. thanks

i have a 1966 chevy c10 inline 6 and have a big issue. this truck was barned for 15 years and I just got it running, well kind of. I put a new carb on(1bbl rodchester) and new fuel line along with a new sending unit. I also put in new plugs and points, cap, rotor, timed it to 4 degrees advanced and it now will start takes some turning over but will start and idle but when I try driving it it wont come up to speed it just boggs down cant pull its own weight. what could be causing this? please help done all i can think of. thanks

tried new vacuum advance and set dwell to 30 and timing to 4btdc but still no power when i drive. the vacuum advance still does not move even when revved way up. took line off carb and with finger over hole and revving still feel no vac out of new carb should i feel the suction?

tried new vacuum advance and set dwell to 30 and timing to 4btdc but still no power when i drive. the vacuum advance still does not move even when revved way up. took line off carb and with finger over hole and revving still feel no vac out of new carb should i feel the suction?

Quote:

Originally Posted by oem4me

Wrong thread for this subject. You'll probably get more views in the general 60-66 section or Engines and Drivetrain section.

Hood Hinge
From research here looks like some hood hinges were silver cad, which mine looked like, weathered silver with some light rust/dirt. Also, some of the photos posted for Lambert, looked like they may have been blackish ones too??.

Hood Hinge Springs

Again research looks like they were kind of flat blackish, phosphate?? mine looked like this.

We've covered the paint/build order for the cab and the bed. How about the front sheet metal?

How was it all painted? Separately, then bolted together?
I've never seen a good, unmolested truck: are the inner fender and core support bolts all painted, as though they were bolted together prior to painting?

Grill surround? I've never paid attention to see if the flanges of the grill surround and the outer fenders are painted body color, or primer and bolted together before exterior paint.

Great thread. It has become my go to before the shop manual. Looking for pics of weather strip. I have not seen any. Just wondering may be the whole door. glass run channels etc... Thank you in advance!

Learned something out the Hydra-matic today. My dipstickcap has always been loose so I decided to solder it and make it right. I glass bead blasted it and found this under the paint - cool. One more factory correct item.