I have realised that many people are still having problems when it's question of DRL + HID with the third generation focus model..

If you have any problem, I can send you a wire diagram showing how to connect all those things !

You'll need
- 1 Standard HID conversion kit 35 w, 12 volt, (bought from vvme.com)
- 1 universal relay harness (bought from vvme.com)
- 2 x resistor of 50 watts 6 Ohms
- couple of extra wires to be able to connect all this (some speaker wires can do just fine... but it isn't the best quality I recommand.. I did use wires from my old car trailer plug 16 gauge)
- Some dexterity to connect wires.. (quick connector or weld skills)

I have had this set-up for 1 year now, and everything works perfectly. I even added a switch in my wire system so that i can close my low beams, without getting any errors in my car...

Feel free to contact me, if you need assistance! I can send you PDF diagram via e-mail

Please don't forget that resistance gets very hot, put them on a metal surfacež away from other wires... (I have pictures of good positionning as well)
Comme see my thread as well... you can post your DRL probelm there, I will help.

5 YEAR WARRANTY
35w Ballast
Comes with "Can-bus" relays (prevent "bulb out")
They always include a How-to instructions when you order

If you beg the differ then stick to the cheap stuff. I've been using Morimoto equipment for over 4 years and I have NEVER had any of their products fail on me (longest set I've own was 3 years). On my 00 Civic EM1, 04 CT9A Evo, 96 S14 Kouki Silvia, 10 C170 Focus.

You can open your headlight housing with only a heat gun, I will say it will take HOURS to open both sides and clean off all the factory sealant. Easiest way is 300F for only 10 minutes in an oven, Once it gets hard to split open then start using a heat gun.

If you check out the MK2 Focus subforums, I was the first to put up a How-to retrofit your headlights and all my equipment was from TRS.com. Only Morimoto's.

When I end up retrofitting my ST's headlights I will only use Morimoto equipment. From the Relay to the Capsule. With that being said, I'm currently in the process of getting a crappy headlight for only $25 bucks shipped and experimenting with it and see if it is possible to open these up without damaging it. I will have a "how to" write up during my experiment.

Any 35w Ballast will need resistors. You will need 6 Ohm 55w resistors on EACH side. As for the 55w Ballast, you will not need resistors since it's consuming the full 55w as if it was a halogen.

5 YEAR WARRANTY
35w Ballast
Comes with "Can-bus" relays (prevent "bulb out")
They always include a How-to instructions when you order

If you beg the differ then stick to the cheap stuff. I've been using Morimoto equipment for over 4 years and I have NEVER had any of their products fail on me (longest set I've own was 3 years). On my 00 Civic EM1, 04 CT9A Evo, 96 S14 Kouki Silvia, 10 C170 Focus.

You can open your headlight housing with only a heat gun, I will say it will take HOURS to open both sides and clean off all the factory sealant. Easiest way is 300F for only 10 minutes in an oven, Once it gets hard to split open then start using a heat gun.

If you check out the MK2 Focus subforums, I was the first to put up a How-to retrofit your headlights and all my equipment was from TRS.com. Only Morimoto's.

When I end up retrofitting my ST's headlights I will only use Morimoto equipment. From the Relay to the Capsule. With that being said, I'm currently in the process of getting a crappy headlight for only $25 bucks shipped and experimenting with it and see if it is possible to open these up without damaging it. I will have a "how to" write up during my experiment.

Any 35w Ballast will need resistors. You will need 6 Ohm 55w resistors on EACH side. As for the 55w Ballast, you will not need resistors since it's consuming the full 55w as if it was a halogen.

Yes, there are several of us who are using that exact kit. Do NOT get the Can-bus setup though, as it will do nothing for this car. Just go with their heavy duty relay, as you'll need one and it's a nice one (besides mine having it's ballast connections being attached the wrong way).

Also, craigfocus already has a thread documenting how he retrofitted his headlights with the H1 kit from theretrofitsource.com. It looks pretty good for a "universal" retrofit, you should check it out if you haven't already.

I already know that you need resistors with the 55w kit because this car needs a relay. I have the 55w kit and they still didnt work. I believe I was one of the first to have this work without issues using a relay harness and resistors. It makes it so much easier. The biggest issue is the factory headlamps do not get enough Voltage under deceleration 9v-9.7v which shuts down the ballasts.

I already know that you need resistors with the 55w kit because this car needs a relay. I have the 55w kit and they still didnt work. I believe I was one of the first to have this work without issues using a relay harness and resistors. It makes it so much easier. The biggest issue is the factory headlamps do not get enough Voltage under deceleration 9v-9.7v which shuts down the ballasts.

Also, craigfocus already has a thread documenting how he retrofitted his headlights with the H1 kit from theretrofitsource.com. It looks pretty good for a "universal" retrofit, you should check it out if you haven't already.

I've already seen this (thanks for the link though), Im going to pursue a "quad Retrofit" with the Morimoto MH1 in the "Low beam" and the Morimoto Matchbox in the "high beam" but have them both running at the same damn time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FocusBoy58

I already know that you need resistors with the 55w kit because this car needs a relay. I have the 55w kit and they still didnt work. I believe I was one of the first to have this work without issues using a relay harness and resistors. It makes it so much easier. The biggest issue is the factory headlamps do not get enough Voltage under deceleration 9v-9.7v which shuts down the ballasts.

Me personally would always use a relay system so I knew I was getting pure clean current straight from the battery.

Also, with my buddies 2012 Focus SE, when I installed his HID kit without resistors (55w Kit) I didn't use any load resistors but still used a relay harness. No dipped bulb or any failures.

I've already seen this (thanks for the link though), Im going to pursue a "quad Retrofit" with the Morimoto MH1 in the "Low beam" and the Morimoto Matchbox in the "high beam" but have them both running at the same damn time.

Ah, very interesting. I look forward to seeing your progress!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slammed_2.0

Me personally would always use a relay system so I knew I was getting pure clean current straight from the battery.

Also, with my buddies 2012 Focus SE, when I installed his HID kit without resistors (55w Kit) I didn't use any load resistors but still used a relay harness. No dipped bulb or any failures.

Well I stand corrected then! It makes sense that it works considering the wattage rating. I guess I assumed that the car's computer may still be a bit "iffy" when it came to how the ballasts operate, causing at least a temporary error.

^ I agree. I have a 35w kit installed on my Focus, and I've tried so many different combinations of harness, resistors and relays that it makes me sick, but yet I still have a bulb out warning. My lights wouldn't even stay on without a harness.

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