4 Answers
4

You didn't mention which PCB layout program you are using, but if it is Eagle, the part is available in the SparkFun library. See images below.

I drill the holes with the 3.2mm drill bit. I then place the connector on the PCB, touch both the connector terminal and the PCB pad with the soldering iron (hot) and push the solder in until it makes a little blob, nice and round. It takes quite a bit of solder, like in the image below. Watch out not to push the solder directly into the hole or it will go into the connector and destroy it.

Bear in mind that I make my boards at home, so I have no idea how that is done with production quality, but mine gets firm and steady.

If you do find an apparently-suitable part in a library for a mechanical part like this, carefully check the footprint's dimensions against the physical part you have - different makers may place the pins in different positions.
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Peter BennettDec 27 '13 at 22:32

@PeterBennett - Right! I usually layout the component on the board (using Eagle), print it in regular paper and then place the component over the paper to see if it fits.
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RicardoDec 28 '13 at 1:01

I would suggest oval holes. You'll get better soldering (and desoldering) if the hole is properly sized around the pin.
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Adam HeadDec 27 '13 at 20:29

1

Round holes of the proper radius will work just fine.
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AngryEEDec 27 '13 at 20:55

1

You do not get better desoldering with snugly fitting holes; you get worse desoldering. If there is plenty of slack between a pin and plated hole, it is easy to vacuum out the solder from there, and separate the two. Where there is tight contact, you can break the bond thanks to the wiggle room you have.
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KazDec 27 '13 at 21:56

1

Oval holes or routed slots will proably add a mnaufacturing step, so may add to the board cost, and may not be available from the prototype board shops - best to keep things simple, and use round holes.
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Peter BennettDec 27 '13 at 22:34