If you think most veggie burgers taste like hash brown patties in a bun, then get thee to a Burger Bach, an upmarket five-town chain with three outlets in Richmond. It’s not the flavor, derived mostly from lentils, that astonishes, but the texture: close your eyes and by God, you’re eating meat. The fast-food condiments only enhance the illusion.

The grilled portobello patty at Burgerworks in Glen Allen feeds my inner spirit animal, a woodsy squealer rooting for loamy aromas. I love its port-like complexity, which shows particularly well with the lightly cooked onions and blue cheese that come on the signature Blue Burger. If you’re not crazy about mushrooms and want to stay away from red meat, go for the turkey or chicken burger.