Japanese

Kingyo

51B Winchester, at Parliament, 647-748-2121, kingyotoronto.ca, @Kingyotoronto This laid-back Cabbagetown izakaya proves you don't need the full-bore frat-boy party vibe of Guu and the like to have a good time. Where else can you enjoy shareable plates that are as much fun for the tongue as they are for the eye while a kitschy Japanese sci-fi movie unspools over the bar? Best: rice-paper-wrapped salad rolls stuffed with barbecued cha shu pork, cucumber and lettuce splashed with house-made teriyaki sauce and sweet kewpie mayo; tataki-style seared albacore tuna dressed with ponzu jelly and deep-fried garlic chips; cold al dente ramen noodles tossed with salty cod roe, barbecued pork, bitter radicchio and strips of both seaweed and scrambled egg; hamachi yellowtail carpaccio over organic mesclun, slivered red radish and daikon sprouts in a sesame-wasabi vinaigrette. Complete dinners for $40 per person, including tax, tip and a cocktail. Average main $11. Open for lunch Tuesday to Sunday 11:30 pm to 3 pm; dinner Sunday to Thursday 5:30 pm to 11:30 pm, Friday to Saturday 5:30 pm to midnight. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN

Sandwiches

Schnitzel Queen

237 Queen E, at Sherbourne, 416-363-9176, schnitzelqueen.blogspot.ca Though there are only three seats at the cramped lunch counter (four if you count the stool in the corner), this tiny long-running takeaway near Moss Park is responsible for some of the biggest meal deals in town. Regulars know to come early, after the lunch rush, or phone for delivery into the core. Best: enormous sandwiches on multi-grain ciabatta dressed with mayo and leafy lettuce, then stuffed with pounded, battered and fried-to-order pork cutlets the size of oven mitts; customize the basic model with the likes of lemony potato salad and caramelized onion (the Bernard) or diced bacon, sauerkraut and processed cheddar (the King); chicken schnitzel with sweet 'n' sour Chinese chili sauce; for the vegetarian, deep-fried Edam cheese or eggplant schnitzel with all the fixin's. Complete meals for $15 per person, including tax, tip and a drink. Average main $10. Open Monday to Friday 11 am to 7 pm. Closed Saturday, Sunday, holidays. No reservations. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, counter seating, no washrooms. Rating: NNNN

Contemporary

Hawthorne Food & Drink

60 Richmond E, at Church, 647-930-9517, hawthorneto.ca, @hawthorneto Following the exit of Cowbell's Mark Cutrara, ex-Starfish and Frank chef Martha Wright takes the reins of this under-appreciated bistro in the financial district. A locally sourced seasonal carte, rock-bottom prices and polished service deserve a larger audience. Those standing in line for tables at the very similar Richmond Station two blocks away, take note. Best: quinoa salad with roasted eggplant, Brussels sprouts and edamame in VQA Riesling vinaigrette; pan-seared Lake Erie perch with corn 'n' crab chowder; chicken liver mousse "brûlée" with caramel sauce and stewed blackberries on crostini; smoky Memphis-style pork ribs with red cabbage and daikon; to finish, chocolate bread pudding with butterscotch ice cream and chocolate sauce. Complete dinners for $40 per person (lunches $28), including tax, tip and a glass of VQA wine. Average main $18/$12. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11 am to 3 pm, dinner Tuesday to Saturday 5 to 10 pm. Closed Sunday, holidays. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN