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for what it's worth, the picture is slightly tilted, so those guys aren't as bad as they look.

I was soloing (no pro) to the first anchor on sliding board two weeks ago and psyched myself out because the rock was slightly crumbly and I couldn't stop thinking about the mushed up crystals acting like ball bearings and me going for the 200 foot slide. sometimes it's all in your head, and once you lose that momentum it's really hard to recover. you gotta believe!

Dman's right though, weight over your feet is where it's at. but you have to be ready to change that mentality when the terrain changes. some of the friction climbing maxims like taking small steps, or sticking your butt out, are just plain wrong on many slab situations. sometimes you have to make a big rockover move on a high foot, and sometimes you gotta get your head right next to the rock in order to get the center of balance you need to move your foot up. trust your instincts if something isn't working, and don't be afraid to throw common knowledge out the window if it feels right for you.

that pic is of me and my friend tyler. at that point I wasn't even moving and I was looking up the rock. waiting for tyler to get a head start. def have that climb dialed and the friction on that thing is rediculous. funny that that was you chris.... didn't even recognize you. met you out at Frankenstein early april 2 seasons ago when me and my girl were hiking. good to see you are getting after it!

That's so cool. We didn't realize that either It was April 10 2011! There was only one other climbing party out that day and they were hanging out in the cave on Standard. Laura, still laughs about that day because you could see I was itchin to climb but there were pillars crashing in the background. You set off down the tracks and Laura still swears that you came back to make sure everything was ok, perhaps having heard us arguing whether to climb or not ; )

Clippity do da is not friction climbing. It is way too featured. On site soloed it once on a day that was close to 100f and nearly that much humidity and it was sticky and secure. Sharp Rumny rock. that lower section of whitehorse is way low angle. Hiked accross with full packs and sandals one evening comming back from Total Recall and Childrens Crusade.. somehow we found ourselfs up on that shelf where the angle steepens. there was a dog up there unroped waiting for mommy to come back and all the beginners were stacked up waiting to rap as it got dark. We walked by with our packs and sandals. That was the closest that I ever got to doing anything right of sea Of holes. would like to do Slideing Board someday but it all looks like a zoo over there every time I walk by.

Risking over generalization, I would say on routes at .12a and under, there are very few pure friction moves to be found on any crag at Rumney. In general, Schist is just too featured for pure friction moves. Thin, thin edges, yes but pure friction? Far and few in between.

Logged

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DGoguen

Trad,You should get on Sliding Board and Wavelength.Two area classics WELL worth doing.Bob

Absolutely Tradman. And if your in town overnight, it's nice to start at 4:00 or 5:00 in the afternoon in the summer. It cools off and you typically are the only party on the cliff, particularly on a weekday. You realize the true beauty of the place.

I am a big fan of 2nd or 3rd shift on crowded clasics.. Seems like on some of those climbs the slowest party starts @ 0 5 hundred and cloggs thimgs up all day. Starting late in the afternoon they might either be done or you can cruise past them with with relative ease as everyone else is finished as well.

The reason guides, and long time slab climbers often say “stand up” to beginner’s on slabs is most of the time people lean in to much and don’t stay weighted over their feet. There’s nothing wrong with keeping your hands on the rock, but that is hard to do on 35 degree slab, which is much of lower Whitehorse, without leaning in to much. I find it easier to do when following, but when leading the same pitch I may just use fingertips with outstretched arms to stay more stable... the important concept is stay over your feet and stop leaning in so much!

I understand it, I have some good training on top rope and steep slab to use stick in my hands to balance my weight over my feet. If you are in the lead, I prefer some one who will bent is knee and put the weight on his feet than someone who whill walk straight up as if a slab is easy. When I climb I try to use my hand to find the best foothold. Some times, it is vey boomer. As I walk on the slab, I don't even have to find hold