Brennan's: New Orleans restaurant history, preserved and perfected

The stakes of operating a restaurant in the French Quarter are nothing less than the answer to this question: What makes New Orleans restaurants special? It is fair to argue that one must venture beyond the French Quarter to adequately answer that question, but millions of people do not. They’re inexorably drawn to the neighborhood that serves as this tourism-dependant city’s welcome mat, and those of us who take pride in New Orleans reputation for superlative hospitality should be thankful so many diners end up at Brennan’s. By virtue of its history and its size, this ornate castle of a restaurant is a power center, and its current operators, led by restaurateur Ralph Brennan and chef Slade Rushing, take their responsibility seriously. Rushing uses his position at the helm of a French-Creole standard bearer to advance the old story about food in this port city providing a window to the world. Frog legs come entangled with basil-tempura, coconut-sweetened corn soup is edged with Thai chile, Gulf fish amandine is laid across haricot verts that snap. Rushing’s audience is a privileged one – wine service this suave doesn’t come cheap. Those lucky enough to dine here go home understanding just how good a classic New Orleans restaurant can be.