Top 10 food stories of 2013

Dec. 18, 2013

Updated Dec. 24, 2013 2:56 p.m.

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Chef-owner Amar Santana of Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Santana is one of several chefs who have criticized the ban of foie gras in California. He served it temporarily in his restaurant after the ban. REGISTER FILE PHOTO

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These grocery items are some of the foods that have partially hydrogenated oil in them. The FDA has proposed banning partially hydrogenated oil in the U.S. JEBB HARRIS, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

Pommes Lyonnaise Benedict is one of the latest French-inspired dishes that is on the menu at Mimi's Cafe. The OC born chain revamped its menu under its new owners. It is moving its Irvine headquarters to Texas. H. LORREN AU JR., ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Some Orange County food trucks called it quits in order to launch their own restaurants, including Seabirds. REGISTER FILE PHOTO

Chef-owner Amar Santana of Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Santana is one of several chefs who have criticized the ban of foie gras in California. He served it temporarily in his restaurant after the ban. REGISTER FILE PHOTO

The year has flown by and it was packed with exciting post-recession changes that have turned Orange County into an exciting Southern California culinary destination.

Over the years, this region has become the center of national food news – either as early adopters of East Coast trends (think cupcakes) or the launching of industry-changing movements such as food trucks. It was no different in 2013. We saw strange food hybrids and icy desserts and witnessed a controversial foie gras rebellion.

We also saw the arrival of a restaurant critic for the Register, who is holding chefs accountable with his razor-sharp critiques.

Here are the top 10 food stories for 2013:

Brad A. Johnson: After years without a full-time food critic, the Register searched the nation to find a respected restaurant writer to give readers expert insight into Orange County's evolving dining scene. Enter Johnson, an award-winning food and travel writer with a penchant for graceful service, perfectly cooked steak and fresh-cut fries. His introductory column (published in late 2012) illustrated that he'd show no mercy for popular or sentimental favorites. Game on. Over the next 12 months, he put Orange County chefs on notice by re-introducing a make-or-break star rating system. Johnson has yet to award any local restaurant four stars. Maybe in 2014? (Related: See Johnson's picks for best restaurants/chefs of 2013)

Foie gras rebellion: In California, the production or sale of foie gras has been banned since mid-2012. But in April, the Register revealed that a few California chefs, including some in Orange County, were still serving foie gras – either as a main dish or an ingredient in dishes. The catch: restaurants such as Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach and Arc in Costa Mesa were serving fattened duck liver but not charging diners for it. Once animal rights groups got wind of the rebellion, the activists put O.C. restaurants on notice. Chefs Amar Santana and Noah Blom eventually stopped serving foie gras.

Mimi's French revolution: Beloved Orange County institution Mimi's Café went through some dark years under its previous owner, Bob Evans Farms. The Ohio company put Mimi's culinary team through the wringer, forcing it to cheapen the menu with inferior ingredients, the Register revealed in October. Under new owner Le Duff America, Mimi's Café rolled out a revamped breakfast, lunch and dinner menu – serving items emblematic of the French influences treasured by Mimi's founder, Arthur Simms. Last week, Mimi's confirmed plans to relocate its Irvine headquarters to Le Duff's Dallas home base.

Cronut craze: New York is a city where food fads, especially sweet ones, are born. Remember, the cupcake craze? This year, it was the cronut. A French pastry chef in New York drew worldwide attention in May when he debuted his croissant-doughnut hybrid. He sells about 300 a day for $5 a pop. Bakeries across the world have since created copycats, from mom-and-pop doughnut stores to Whole Foods Market. Whole Foods stores in Tustin and Laguna Niguel were among the first markets to sell “croissant doughnuts.” Paris Baguette shops in Orange County also sell them.

Honda Center cleans house: The Anaheim venue let go longstanding hospitality company Aramark and its 400 employees in an attempt to improve food operations. Wiping the slate clean, Honda Center has added a members-only dining club, new concessions, a Chipotle-style food stand and a Wolfgang Puck eatery. The radical change was made to attract an NBA team.

Food truck slowdown:Is the food truck movement over? Some of Orange County's most popular trucks gave up their wheels this year for permanent homes. Taco Maria, Seabirds and Rancho A Go Go now have brick-and-mortar operations. Slapfish, a former truck turned restaurant, announced plans to go global with its fast-casual seafood brand. The Buttermilk Truck also stopped serving the region in the fall. Owner Gigi Pascual said she is focusing on wholesale, selling her famous Red Velvet pancakes at Surfas in Costa Mesa, Sur La Table and Bristol Farms.

Brain-freeze invasion: The cupcake, gelato and frozen yogurt industries stabilized this year. The next emerging dessert craze proved to be flavored ice. We saw an eruption of shops dedicated to snowballs, shave ice and Italian ice. In October, the Register highlighted more than two dozen shops – including Rita's Italian Ice, a Pennsylvania institution with plans to open 50 local stores and food trucks.

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