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The car idled fine while it was cold, but when it got up to temp I needed to press the gas to keep it running. My O2 sensor wasn't reading so I may have wired it incorrectly. I'll look into that next weekend.

Also is anyone running an ICV? Right now I just have it set to PWM Warmup, but I need to change it to one of the ICV options and configure it. Just not sure what values to put for the stepper motor.

The car idled fine while it was cold, but when it got up to temp I needed to press the gas to keep it running. My O2 sensor wasn't reading so I may have wired it incorrectly. I'll look into that next weekend.

Also is anyone running an ICV? Right now I just have it set to PWM Warmup, but I need to change it to one of the ICV options and configure it. Just not sure what values to put for the stepper motor.

NICE!! You've got the car running so that's one major step completed.

As for the idle i'd run pwm warmup until you fully understand the workings of the closed-loop idle control. Only closed loop and pwm warmup work with the stock icv.

the wb02 is only one wire + grnd, hook it up to know what's going on!!

the wb02 is only one wire + grnd, hook it up to know what's going on!!

the next update better has more vids of sildewayzz action

Yeah, I had spliced the wires into the stock harness, but I might have gotten the two wires backwards. I was thinking of maybe using the DB15 connector and running them straight into the box rather than going thru the harness. I also thought that I had an AEM wb02 because I hadn't looked at the box in a year..but I have an autometer sport comp. In the afr calibration there's only one option that says Autometer 0v=afr10 4v=afr16. It's either that or I pick the linear option and put in the specs that are on the data sheet for the gauge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by e30_kid89

As for the idle i'd run pwm warmup until you fully understand the workings of the closed-loop idle control. Only closed loop and pwm warmup work with the stock icv.

Quote:

Originally Posted by everlast

NICE!

Stepper motor? Are you using the factory ICV and a GG board to control it? If so, you don't use the stepper stuff.

I use the factory ICV and GG board, and use closed loop mode on it. Its a bit of a chore to get it working right, but I've found some tricks.

I'm using the stock ICV and the DIYPNP board has a built in IAC circuit. I said stepper motor because I figured that a 3 wire connector would be for a stepper unit, but I guess our ICVs are a 3 wire PWM solenoid.

So I finally got around to fixing the wiring or my O2 sensor. I just decided to use the spare DB15 connector and wire the O2 directly to the MS rather than going through the harness. To my relief it appears that the afr gauge in Tunerstudio is reading the same as the actual wideband gauge.

I'm still having that issue where the car seems to idle ok when it's cold, but once it warms up it wants to die. It seems like it's not getting enough air, because it's running rich and dieing. I need to take a closer look at the idle settings.

Another weird thing happened, since the afr gauge seemed to be reading ok, even though the car wouldn't idle properly, I decided to see if the car would actually drive properly. It seemed to drive ok. Then keeping a close eye on the afr gauge I tried to climb into boost a little bit, as soon as the car got into boost it shut off. The car just completely turned off, I don't have overboost protection enabled yet so i know that's not the cause, and I definitely wasn't near the revlimiter. Has anyone heard of that happening before?

Anyways, when I get some time I'll play around with it a bit more. I still need to buy a license for Tunerstudio so I can take full advantage of it.

So I went out today to start the car because it had been sitting for a couple weeks. I played with the pwm settings and was able to get the car to idle when warm without me pressing the gas. I also decreased the req_fuel and scaled the VE table to get more resolution to make it easier to hit the afr targets.

I took the car for a quick spin to get a log of that problem I'm having when the car gets into boost. The problem is I'm getting a sync loss, and the sync loss reason says 2 which corresponds to missing tooth at wrong time. I'll post the log later, but it's happening all the time around 2800-3000 rpm. I currently have no noise filtering enabled though. I guess I could try turning that on and see if it solves the problem.

So I went out to get a sync loss log (see attached picture)
After speaking with Matt Cramer he suggested trying to increase the resistor value on the vr signal from 18k to 25k, and then if that doesn't work, to use the LM1815 circuit that's part of the V1.5 DIYPNP board (which I built the circuit but didn't wire anything up to it).

Anyways I went to change the resistor first because that was easy... I touched the jumper wire for the vr signal and it just popped out of the board! There was a botched solder So I promptly fixed it, confident that would solve my sync loss problem... no such luck, it's still acting exactly the same.

So I'm going to read up a bit more on that LM1815 circuit, since I built the circuit I minus well use it if it works well.