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The art of siu mei – or Cantonese roast meats – is gaining momentum in London. Classic dishes such as roast duck, roast pork, crispy pork belly and slow-poached soy chicken are moving out of their spiritual home in Chinatown and spreading through the capital.

When the chief food critic at Bloomberg, Richard Vines, was invited to curate Bloomberg Arcade – a food and art space in London’s financial district, which opened in October 2018 – he was looking for something different and found it in…