Viktor & Rolf

"We were inspired by black holes, which absorb all
light and energy," explained a dead-serious,
soot-covered Rolf backstage. "We wanted to transform
negative feelings into something positive and
creative."

If only everyone's stress-management techniques were
as fruitful. Working exclusively in black (just ask
the painted models, who were struggling with cold
cream and reams of tissues after the show), and
touching upon the best of masters like Balenciaga,
Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy, the Dutch duo
delivered one of the strongest, bravest collections of
the season.

In what amounted to an exhaustive
exploration of volumes, Viktor and Rolf showed
everything from enormous, flared-sleeve gowns and
coats to fitted shirts with massive collars that
accommodated gargantuan scarves and ties. Asymmetric
dresses were gently ruched at the side and paired with
cropped jackets that morphed into flowing, capelike
wraps; skinny pinstripe trousers looked anything but
ordinary with a matching padded vest that created a
top-heavy silhouette. Pleated and ruffled shirts,
leather-striped jeans, sharp denim blazers and shiny
shirtdresses showed that Viktor and Rolf can provide everyday clothes without sacrificing an
ounce of creativity.