I pulled the rear deck to get my tint done. Check out all of the stuff under there. Btw, that Bose sub is pure garbage.

wildwhl

06-22-04, 12:09 AM

The Bose sub is a Neodymium(sp?) reverse magnet sup, is it not? These aren't terrible - lightweight and somewhat efficient, definately compact. Certainly most aftermarket subs are superior. I see that you removed it - what do you plan to replace it with?

I just added a Kicker 8sl5 stashed in the spare tire location with a JBL BP300.1 as a test bed to augment the bottom end. Haven't really tuned it yet - but sounds substantially better. I left the Bose sub connected, but may try it without shortly.

Chuck C

06-22-04, 12:14 AM

hey, all I know is that you are Better Off with Something Else

wildwhl

06-22-04, 01:15 AM

hey, all I know is that you are Better Off with Something Else

yeah, I know. Still, this is the best Bose system I've had (4 previous and one other current car with Bose). As I already mentioned, upgrades are under way.

Cal

06-22-04, 02:16 AM

I didn't take you guys for the ghetto blaster types. Wild likes to crank up the Judy Collins at 500 watts and shake the windows of the Civics at stoplights.

ctsvett

06-22-04, 02:21 AM

From looking that second picture shows where the onstar antenna plugs in.. correct? I am guessing that there is a jumper cable we can get (make, buy) to adapt to the new combined onstar antenna?

What did you do (proceedure) to remove the back deck and trunk lining?

Reed
http://www.cadillacfaq.com

benjet

06-22-04, 02:24 AM

and hey you left the back seat in there too, good show - they took mine out to get the deck panel out (but hey they are pro's - what do I know)

wildwhl

06-22-04, 10:37 AM

I didn't take you guys for the ghetto blaster types. Wild likes to crank up the Judy Collins at 500 watts and shake the windows of the Civics at stoplights.

I do like to improve on most sound systems but prefer to do so in a stealth manner such that you cannot see the changes, and your fellow drivers are not annoyed by them. Sound quality, not sound quantity, is the name of the game in my book.

Bose systems can often be upgraded for only minor expense/tweaking and the results are somtimes quite amazing. The system in my wife's previous car, a 2000 Maxima SE, only needed a swap out of the front factory tweeters and I added a hidden JLAudio 6" sub in the trunk with a small 150 watt amp. The system sounded twice as good, IMHO, at ALL volumes, but most especially at normal listening volumes (i.e. half volume).

I don't believe in trashing factory systems when they are well integrated into the vehicle, such the way that this system is in the V.

Remember, those of you that are attempting to modify your electronics - K.I.S.S. will make your life a ton easier. The V does NOT need a pair of 12's in the trunk - remember - you're going to pay money for those headers and exhaust so that you can HEAR THE ENGINE - not drown it out with muddy, overpowered bass tones.

trekster

06-22-04, 11:42 AM

Bose is a joke with their paper drivers. But, then again the system doesn't sound that bad and I rather here the sound of the V.

wildwhl

06-22-04, 11:57 AM

Bose is a joke with their paper drivers. But, then again the system doesn't sound that bad and I rather here the sound of the V.

Agreed, the Bose drivers are usually some of the cheapest crap around. The V system does sound pretty good, though. I've had excellent results in replacing some or all of the drivers before in Bose systems - but wouldn't recommend random selection. I have the advantage of access to a real world speaker designer that has all of the proper tools to test and measure driver performance. Before he finished school to become a E.E. he designed raw drivers for a living. He's quite knowledgable and been very good at finding the deficiencies in my previous vehicles.

Like I said, it usually just takes a few tweaks and minor cost at driver replacement for substantial improvements. Once I go that route with my V - I'll post my recommendations on the Forum for everyone's benefit.

Just because it is paper, doesn't make it crap! I'm a commercial print shop owner - what do you think I pay hundreds of thousands of dollars for each year! Some of that paper is pretty darn sweet...but I digress.

trekster

06-22-04, 12:03 PM

Agreed, the Bose drivers are usually some of the cheapest crap around. The V system does sound pretty good, though. I've had excellent results in replacing some or all of the drivers before in Bose systems - but wouldn't recommend random selection. I have the advantage of access to a real world speaker designer that has all of the proper tools to test and measure driver performance. Before he finished school to become a E.E. he designed raw drivers for a living. He's quite knowledgable and been very good at finding the deficiencies in my previous vehicles.

Like I said, it usually just takes a few tweaks and minor cost at driver replacement for substantial improvements. Once I go that route with my V - I'll post my recommendations on the Forum for everyone's benefit.

Just because it is paper, doesn't make it crap! I'm a commercial print shop owner - what do you think I pay hundreds of thousands of dollars for each year! Some of that paper is pretty darn sweet...but I digress. of course not some paper is really high in quality. Just not bose's

lasstss

06-22-04, 03:18 PM

Actually, Im putting in a 10" peerless sub. Nothing fancy but good for 200 watts.

The V stereo is OK but has no depth. Sooo while im at it I am going to get a high level line input sub amp to power the sub. THis way I get some sorely needed bass without aborting the OEM system.

Removal... the key is the little Air Bag label in the middle of the pillar cover.
Carefully pry it off. I broke the tangs on one.There is a hex screw at the bottom. If you look ath the pix of the white airbag you will see the hex screw in place.Remove the screw and the pillar covers come off.(they also have some clips). THe deck cover has tabs that stick out in the back to hold it down. Behind the seat is a steel brace. Take off the 4 nuts that secure it. The seat back will come far enough forward for you to get at 2 black push pins at the extreme end of the top of the seat. Pop them out. Lace the seatbelt thru the hole and disconnect from the buckle first. Really not much too it. Lift the deck cover op and out The seat doesent have to come out.
I went with 30% film.

lasstss

06-22-04, 03:23 PM

By the way, the magnet on that sub is about 1.5" in diameter and 1.5" tall approx. This driver is seeing very little power. It was made special as to not interfere with the trunk space. I would guess that it can handle 20-30W tops.

wildwhl

06-22-04, 05:08 PM

Removal... the key is the little Air Bag label in the middle of the pillar cover.
Carefully pry it off. I broke the tangs on one.There is a hex screw at the bottom. If you look ath the pix of the white airbag you will see the hex screw in place.Remove the screw and the pillar covers come off.(they also have some clips). THe deck cover has tabs that stick out in the back to hold it down. Behind the seat is a steel brace. Take off the 4 nuts that secure it. The seat back will come far enough forward for you to get at 2 black push pins at the extreme end of the top of the seat. Pop them out. Lace the seatbelt thru the hole and disconnect from the buckle first. Really not much too it. Lift the deck cover op and out The seat doesent have to come out.
I went with 30% film.

Actually (and don't break the covers doing this) I was able to remove mine without pulling off the ABS tag cover. There are clips to the mount prior to that - just be careful. I pulled mine off for rerouting of the OnStar cable...but have instead left it setting on my rear deck until a suitable replacement is fine.

wildwhl

06-22-04, 05:10 PM

By the way, the magnet on that sub is about 1.5" in diameter and 1.5" tall approx. This driver is seeing very little power. It was made special as to not interfere with the trunk space. I would guess that it can handle 20-30W tops.

is there another amp inline with the subwoofer? The Bose amp that lies behind the trunk lining on the driver's side has the sub-out wires at a much smaller gauge than those that are attached to the sub driver itself. I'm wondering if there is an amp inline somewhere (the bose in my previous cars usually used an amp, labelled at 100 watts but more likely about 30 watts RMS, inline with the subs, sometimes attached directly to inside a black plastic housing)?