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Description

About 50 yards South of the arch entrance to the Beachside Wall, around the corner from the largest cave, there is a spot where the rock becomes clean and white up considerably higher than any other face on the rock. This climb will usually be out of the surf, except in extreme cases, when you probably shouldn't be climbing in the area anyways!

At the base, you will find a large foothold about a foot off the ground, and there will also be a large pocket to serve as a starting hand. Climb the white sparsely pocketed face up to the sandstone horn 25-30 feet off the ground. Ther are several grips at the top that are only sandstone, as the white wall nearly disappears at the top of the route. Climbing is balancy the entire way, without letting up for most of the route. There are very few good holds on the way up, though there are some good rests if you look. The climb becomes scarily balancy at the top.

You're done when you can grasp the horn, but DON'T dino to it, I personally wouldn't even hang from it. This is sandstone, and I really don't think that it could withstand too many people jumping to it. There are several ways to get up to the horn without jumping.

Finally, once you've gotten to the horn, descend off the sandstone to the left.

This gets an vs rating despite the fact that the whole climb is over sand. Without a perfect landing from a fall in the last commiting section in the route (feet about 15-18 feet off the ground), you WILL hurt yourself. If you fall really wrong, you are going to need some hosptalization.

Comment Type:

Declaring that as a first scent is a little suspicious. Did you talk to any locals before making this declaration? I doubt that there is any climbable rock at Panther that hasn't been ascended yet. Unless of course you climb harder than Sharma who has been haunting the area for years. Also before young Sharma other local lumenaries such as Barry Bates, Doug Robinson and Andy Puhvel frequented the area. So if you wish to maintain credibility I would consider not declaring that as a FA. Sorry if I came across snotty, but...
May 14, 2003

The whole thing about calling this a first ascent was that the most prominent holds on the face fell off as we were bouldering our way up it. This meant if someone had ever climbed it before, it was a very different bouldering problem in the previous years. Not fair AC?
Sep 8, 2004