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Topic Review (Newest First)

11-19-2012 04:05 PM

91CamaroDude

Quote:

Originally Posted by kc8oye

just a comment on the side conversation on the electric fans.. if your electric fans are running while you are moving, they are doing more harm then good...

once the air speed through the radiator from the vehicle moving, exceeds the air speed generated by the fan blades, they actually begin to restrict air flow!

I have a 160 t-stat, and as long as I'm doing more then 25mph, the engine will run 160 all day long... I have (1) two speed fan, and a smaller single speed fan.. so I use two controllers.. the first controller turns the big fan on 'low' and the small fan on at the same time.. at 190... the 2nd controller brings the big fan up to high speed if I make it to 220F.

With this setup, I can generally sit at a traffic light for a minute or two and the fans won't come on.. and if they do, they turn off almost as soon as I start moving again. (my controllers have temp probes in the fins of the radiator) .. before upgraded to a 110A CS-130 style alternator.. I used to have voltage issues with two electric fans running at idle. which is what originally prompted me to play around with the fan settings...

then, since I don't' have a/c.. I use the a/c control wire with a toggle switch to force the fans on when I want them.. (like sitting in the staging lanes at the track, and I dont' want the engine at 190F when I'm getting ready to make a pass!)

That would be pretty cool to see a picture of that

But to finalize the question in the first post, I have fixed the entire issue. Once I got an ignition coil, plugged it in and I could tell just by the clean startup and sound at idle that it was done. I got the timing light out and got it timed first, then I started checking all the plug wires and every single one of the didn't miss a beat. As usual thanks for everyone's input. ( but really I'd like to see a diagram/picture of how you have your fans setup.)

08-04-2012 01:12 AM

kc8oye

just a comment on the side conversation on the electric fans.. if your electric fans are running while you are moving, they are doing more harm then good...

once the air speed through the radiator from the vehicle moving, exceeds the air speed generated by the fan blades, they actually begin to restrict air flow!

I have a 160 t-stat, and as long as I'm doing more then 25mph, the engine will run 160 all day long... I have (1) two speed fan, and a smaller single speed fan.. so I use two controllers.. the first controller turns the big fan on 'low' and the small fan on at the same time.. at 190... the 2nd controller brings the big fan up to high speed if I make it to 220F.

With this setup, I can generally sit at a traffic light for a minute or two and the fans won't come on.. and if they do, they turn off almost as soon as I start moving again. (my controllers have temp probes in the fins of the radiator) .. before upgraded to a 110A CS-130 style alternator.. I used to have voltage issues with two electric fans running at idle. which is what originally prompted me to play around with the fan settings...

then, since I don't' have a/c.. I use the a/c control wire with a toggle switch to force the fans on when I want them.. (like sitting in the staging lanes at the track, and I dont' want the engine at 190F when I'm getting ready to make a pass!)

08-03-2012 05:39 PM

91CamaroDude

Sonofab**** theres money out the window. Forgot about the no return policy. Ignition module..fail. Cap and rotor..fail. iv always tried to fix things before I go off n replace 'em. But it looks like its not gonna happen.
I have plenty of parts stores around but star has always done pretty well with the things I need. Oh well you live an you learn I guess.
Next thing I get will be a dizzy and until then if anyone has had this problem and knows a remedy feel to chime in. Thanks for your guys help I do appreciate the feedback.

08-03-2012 01:35 PM

bigdog7373

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91CamaroDude

Worst comes to worse, i take back the cap n rotor, the module and then just get a new dizzy, so I wont really be out any money.

Haha dont say that! I just got b****ed out by 5 different people for saying something similar the other day lol

Like i said, just get the dizzy. Do you have autozone near you? The have them in stock all the time

08-03-2012 12:23 PM

cdminter59

Misfire

That sounds like a winner. Glad you can return electrical parts if they don't work! If you have an ignition box get a decent distributor when getting a new one. Most cheap ones are Chinese made and most have alot of problems. I have had the MSD Pro-Billet since 1998 for my 67 Camaro 454 and it's still good.

08-03-2012 10:34 AM

91CamaroDude

Got a new cap and rotor yesterday, put it on and guess what. No more problems in cylinder #5...it moved to #2. I went to Star Performance and got it for $15 bucks. It deff improved the lack of spark I have been having and has smoothed out the idle, but its still having a lack of spark. The very last part im going to get today for it before just buying a new dizzy is the ignition module. I know it might just be better to get a new dizzy but Im out the 90 bucks for a week or two till I can finally get it in versus just running up to Star and getting it first hand. Immediate gratification. Would anyone else presume that would be the next best bet? Worst comes to worse, i take back the cap n rotor, the module and then just get a new dizzy, so I wont really be out any money. Suggestions?

08-02-2012 11:39 AM

bigdog7373

You can do the cap and rotor if you want, but they way i think is that if part of it is rigged, you dond know what else is.
Jegs sell a brand new ready to run hei for $79.99. You can find them on ebay even cheaper. Just get a new dizzy. Even if for some reason it doesnt solve the problem it sounds like yours is messed up anyway and i would replace it.
BUT, before you do anything, move the plugs around, you may have a bad plug on that cylinder. Or you can put an old one in it. Whatever you want.

08-02-2012 10:15 AM

cdminter59

misfire

If suspect, buy a new one. You know it is broke. The metal contact suppose to be molded to the rotor, not removable. To be on the safe side I would replace the cap and rotor, what's $20 not to have the headaches you are having.

08-01-2012 07:39 PM

91CamaroDude

I checked them last night, not today, but all other wires were working great. I mean its not a huge noticible miss like some modern v6 or even 4 cyl and when they shake real bad, its almost hardly noticible but because I know the car i can feel it and it bugs the crap out of me.

Check out this picture, where I have pointed out theres a red bridge piece almost where i pointed out in blue. Mine is missing. Could this be it?

08-01-2012 07:33 PM

cdminter59

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91CamaroDude

I took off the cap, and what I assume to be the rotor and all looks good and in tact. The only thing is the metal contacts on what I assume to be the rotor have separated once before like I can take both parts out, and looks like there was once glue on the top metal piece. Is this normal?

The quickest way I know how to check for a miss is to start at No. 1 spark plug wire. Disconnect the wire at the spark plug to see if engine dies any. If it does reconnect and move to the next plug wire. Complete left side first then move to right side. If you pull a wire and engine idle does't change, replace spark plug with a new one. If this does not help ground the spark plug wire to metal. If no arc swap out wire with another to see if you get fire. If still no fire check the under-side of cap. Look for a carbon trail from center black button (coil) to any of the eight terminals or if terminals are corroded. Replace the cap and rotor. If this does not fix the problem check out this: Mallory Ignition 8360M - Mallory Promaster Series Distributors - Overview - SummitRacing.com. Call the order in by phone so you can tell the salesperson that you want the three wire dizzy. It also comes in a two wire model that will need an ignition box. Throw the GM HEI in the thrash.

08-01-2012 07:00 PM

bigdog7373

Check what the other cylinders are doing. Maybe It's having a problem on all of them. Or try moving the plugs around.

08-01-2012 06:10 PM

91CamaroDude

I took off the cap, and what I assume to be the rotor and all looks good and in tact. The only thing is the metal contacts on what I assume to be the rotor have separated once before like I can take both parts out, and looks like there was once glue on the top metal piece. Is this normal?

08-01-2012 06:03 PM

91CamaroDude

Right, without actually having it in front of you it's kinda hard to explain but I think i got it. I rotated the wires one forward. Got it timed, still missing on cyl 5. Same as before. It's strange cuz I don't feel it missing as much as the light is showing lol

08-01-2012 05:53 PM

bigdog7373

Hmm that sounds right. Firing order is 18436572 so you move wire 1 to terminal 8, wire 8 to terminal 4 etc... Basically one forward, which i think u got. Make a mark on the manifold where #1 wire currently is then when you move the wires over, so wire 2 will be on the line so you just turn the dizzy so #1 lines up with it.
I'm trying to say it in the least confusing way i can. It sounded right the way you explained it so go with that.

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