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I'm not an avid Fett collector, but I HAVE been following threads about the chest lights with interest. I'm confused (again) about sequences though. I have the animated file showing the "movie" version for the 7-seg display, but wasn't there some talk about there should be a blank set of displays in the pattern? Instead of toggling between 2 displays, there would be 3 stages (counting the all blank displays).

Also, about the top LEDs, has it been confirmed (or narrowed down) to be 5 across the top? I was thinking I saw an animation showing the sequence as 3, 2, 1, 4 ... of course, it could just be my old age setting in again. ">

Thanks,

ATM

Rapier wit? This is the end of the twentieth century! I'm using a laser sighted under-and-over twin barrelled wit, with a 7.62 mm floating breech pulse rifle firing caseless one-liners on top, and a 40mm explosive gag launcher underneath. For backup I've got a 14mm pump shotgun firing flechette rounds with 10 barbed comments in each, which can also shoot sabot ego-piercing rounds. Of course when all else fails, there's always the trusty flamethrower which I've strapped to my pulse rifle with duct tape in the approved style.

I know I posted above, but I've since gone to radio shack, and been disappointed by their knowledge. Do you even have to know how to hook up speaker wire to work there? I ask them all, even the manager, what I need and how I hook it up to get the LEDs to do what we're talking about. I just got a sea of dumb-founded faces.

So, is there anyone on here who has already hooked their's up, or someone who can just tell me the materials I need, how I wire it up, etc? I'm sure many of us would benefit from a "how to" thread or posting. Thanks all. =] And, and thanks all you guys for working so hard to figure out the sequence and all. I definitely have to hand it to you, since I can't see what you guys are talking about at all. At least, not until you pointed it out.

It's sad that I work for RS and also have the same view on most of the sales people. *Some* of them are fairly knowledgeable, but they are few and far between. What you have to keep in mind is that they are just that ... sales people. How many car salesmen do you know that could tell you how to tune your car or adjust the brakes? <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT="">

As far as hooking up LEDs, that parts easy ... depending on what you're wanting to do and what type of LEDs you have. If you're talking about the 7-segment displays, you'll have a lot of wiring to do ... and that's just for a static (non-moving) display. If you're talking about LEDs in general, that's the easy one. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=""> If you'll give me some more info on what you're trying to accomplish, I'll try to help.

As far as sequencing the lights, that's WELL beyond 99.99% of any RS store people. I'm finally making some headway myself on that one. My funds have prevented me from ordering some parts. But once I get them ordered and in, I'm going to try and have a prototype built-up with the "movie" sequence ... which is why I asked the questions above. The only thing I want to point out about my prototype is that I don't want anyone holding their breathe to see it. Like I said, funds are low (bottoming out), and my time is just as scarce. This is just something I'm working on during my lunch breaks. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT="">

Good luck,

ATM

Rapier wit? This is the end of the twentieth century! I'm using a laser sighted under-and-over twin barrelled wit, with a 7.62 mm floating breech pulse rifle firing caseless one-liners on top, and a 40mm explosive gag launcher underneath. For backup I've got a 14mm pump shotgun firing flechette rounds with 10 barbed comments in each, which can also shoot sabot ego-piercing rounds. Of course when all else fails, there's always the trusty flamethrower which I've strapped to my pulse rifle with duct tape in the approved style.

Thanks for the help, and agreeing with me about them. I know I shouldn't expect them to know everything, but not too long ago there was a guy there who helped me figure out how to do lights in my Slave 1 model. So...had high hopes I guess. And I didn't throw a fit at them or anything, just kinda disappointed. I went through some of the "basic electronics" books they sell as well, and realized I'd be a complete jerk if I expected them to know this stuff, since I don't get it.

As far as what I want, naturally I want it as close to the movie as possible. I do like the idea for having it have the two different sequences, with a blank one in between. (anyone remember the countdown thingie on the Predator's bomb?), and the top ones I would like them to read across, sorta like a cylon or Kitt I guess...(definitely a child of the 80's here).

Thanks again for offering to help me out. I hope the others see this stuff too. Wiring I have no problem with, I'm no stranger to soldering. (sp?) Pretty much all I need is a how to list, or a diagram or something. So, to sum up, I'd like the top row just just blink across, and the bottom row I like the idea of the two sequences with a blank one in the middle. If it has to be static, I'd be cool with that. Thanks again!

The ratios appear to be absolutely correct and you can
use either the .28" or .3" displays in the same slots with NO PROBLEMS!!!

Here are BB's dimensions in metric:

Height of top slot: 4mm.

Distance between slots: 8mm.

Height of bottom slot: 8mm.

Length of slots: 43mm.

Oh, and Shack, we might just need to take a poll to see how people would want the bottom display to read; Jeremy Bulloch had another pic with him at Dragon*Con that showed a third, previously unseen configuration for the bottom display. BB and jme3 and others worked really hard to get the Don Post sequencing down. Jimmy Barela discovered the top sequencing to be 43521. This was his post at the RPF:

The 1st flash is the 4th LED
The 2nd flash is from the 3rd LED
The 3rd flash is from the 5th LED
The 4th flash is from the 2nd LED
The 5th flash is from the 1st LED

Top Slit .There is a two second delay between the third and fourth flash and it is a two second delay with no lights lit in the top slit before the fourth flash starts . could not be seen whether there was a pause inbetween the fifth flash and the first flash of the cycle. Just a note when i say first flash this was the first flash to be seen during this sequence of frames before the camera pans away from fett.

Bottom Slit. definitly the characters did not cycle to a blank display, the first animation BB did only cycled back and fourth inbetween the two movie variations that we have identified.
{end quote from jbarela}

Hmmm ... I think the sequence for the top row is open to some interpretation. As you stated, the sequence is written "as seen". My view on it was that they lit 2, 1, 4, 3, 5, then 2-count pause. This is realy the same thing ... only difference is whether you count the pause to be the end of a sequence or somewhere in between.

Anyway, as I posted on the other board, I have a circuit to do the top (that was the easy part). I'm ordering some parts Monday for both displays. Hopefully in the next week or two I should have something I can show (just don't COUNT on it - in case life happens). <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT="">

So, is there a general consensus yet about the lower dislpay. I mean, with what we think is the movie accurate display, the post you quoted states no delay between the two sets of characters. Personally, I think it woud look better to be blank, show the partially complete characters, then the full characters (or vice versa). But again, that's MY preference ... who knows if it's accurate or not (I know, we shouldn't go there ... everyone's pulling their hair out already). <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/tongue.gif ALT="">

Thanks,

ATM

Rapier wit? This is the end of the twentieth century! I'm using a laser sighted under-and-over twin barrelled wit, with a 7.62 mm floating breech pulse rifle firing caseless one-liners on top, and a 40mm explosive gag launcher underneath. For backup I've got a 14mm pump shotgun firing flechette rounds with 10 barbed comments in each, which can also shoot sabot ego-piercing rounds. Of course when all else fails, there's always the trusty flamethrower which I've strapped to my pulse rifle with duct tape in the approved style.

OK, here I am... Shackman, I agree that I think it would look better if there were a delay with NOTHING lit in the lower slot. However, according to jbarela, who has been studying the ESB footage with GREAt care, this is simply not the case. He maintains that the lower display is ALWAYS lit in some way...

As far as the third step in the sequencing for the movie accurate display... I don't know what to do. The pictures I have just aren't very good. I don't even know if I want to try to tackle it as there is NO WAY I could be sure it is accurate. I will take whatever you guys think I should do. I will say this. If what we think is happening in the sequence (the letters being formed more fully with each flash) then the pic I currently have is an early step in the sequence...

I just found out that someone (that I know and trust) not far from me has a DVD ROM drive. I may see if he can do some video grabbing, to catch a scene in ESB. If you watch the wide-screen version (which I've never seen - all I had was pan and scan - which didn't show this), there is a scene where Fett is facing the camera, and standing still for several seconds. You can see lights flashing on his chest, but can't make them out. If my friend can, I'll see about maybe getting him to dump it into the computer and make a file of it, so we can zoom in.

ATM

Rapier wit? This is the end of the twentieth century! I'm using a laser sighted under-and-over twin barrelled wit, with a 7.62 mm floating breech pulse rifle firing caseless one-liners on top, and a 40mm explosive gag launcher underneath. For backup I've got a 14mm pump shotgun firing flechette rounds with 10 barbed comments in each, which can also shoot sabot ego-piercing rounds. Of course when all else fails, there's always the trusty flamethrower which I've strapped to my pulse rifle with duct tape in the approved style.

Hey all. I was wondering, for those of you with the FettLights (chest lights with the sequencing LEDs), how did you go about mounting them to your armor?

Let me clarify that. I'm not looking for detailed, step-by-step descriptions. What I'm wanting to know is if it would be possible to mount them without the detachable cable? I don't know if y'all are having to run them through the vest at all, or if everything stays between the vest and armor. So, if the two circuit boards were hard-wired together, could you still easily mount them?

My chest lights are permenantly attached (hot glue) to the back of the chest armor...the chest armor is permenantly attached to the vest. I cut a hole in the vest through to the back of the lights to easily change the battery.

I bought a little plastic box, it has screws in it. The box is just big enough to have the lites fit inside. The screws are attached to my armor. The lites are placed inside the box and the box is screwed down. The vest has a hole cut into it. The hole is stiched like a giant button hole so the material dosen't tear. The ribbon then runs inside the vest under the right side to a pocket inside the vest that holds the circutry and battery + switch. The circut board is also in a little plastic box. The switch comes out another smaller hole through the vest underneath the right breastplate.

In response to Bobafettish... View image #1-a, next read page 2-6 and review section 2,5,8,and 10. Next turn to page 1-2 and follow dia. 5 and review section 3 in subindex 1-3-4a and locate the screw dimension located below the diagram.....OK now, I bought a plastic project box from an electronics supply store. The box was just big enough to hold the lite portion of the display. The box itself was held together with 4 screws. I took the deeper portion of the box and cut a slit on the one side wide enough for the wire ribbon to come out. My armor is steel so I was able to solder the 4 screws on the backside of the left breastplate, the holes in the box fit over the screws and hold the lites in line with the slits in the armor. I trimmed the screws and trimmed down the box so it fit flush with my armor plate. In my vest I cut a slit underneath the left breastplate and it was stiched like a buttonhole so the vest would not tear. The hole was wide enough for the wire ribbon through. The wire ribbon was then laced through to the inside of my vest. The ribbon was then attached to the control portion of the lites. The control portion of the lites was held inside a small plastic box I found at a craft store. I cut a small slit on the side of it so that the wires from the battery could extend outside the box and hold the battery. Inside the right side of the vest I made a little pocket, it was big enough to hold the control portion of the lites and a battery. On my lites I added a small slide switch. I cut a small hole underneath the right breastplate and was able to lace the switch through the vest so I could switch on and off the lites while my vest was on.Was that a better explination.....

MUCH! It is all starting to come back to me now. But for the rest of the class, you may need to post a picture or two. I still haven't bought my set of Shack's lights yet since I will be replacing my chest armor (again).

Thanks for the info guys. I knew there would be MANY ways of installing these, just as there are many versions/"brands" of armor. That's the reason I didn't include a built-in power switch ... there's no way of knowing how far away from the board (if not directly ON the board) each customer would want it.

I guess what I'm looking for is that if the two boards were permanently attached (ie, hard-wired together), could someone still mount it fairly easily? Sounds like most are cutting slits into the vest ... would it be just as easy to cut the slits large enough to slip the boards through (as opposed to just the ribbon cable)? And yes, I AM going somewhere with this ...

Aside from the question: Somethin' else that would make them fit better wold be if the plug was on the back side. The plug push it away from the armor a bit on the side with the plug. Not a big deal, but it would be nice if was all flush against the back side of the armor.

Funny you should mentioned that TK-0000 ... all recent units made DO go in from the back side. When I designed them, I sent one to Richie to test fit on his armor. It was a tight fit, but it fit. However, because there are so many versions of armor out there, some were a tighter fit than others.

So, if you can make yours fit (even if it's tight), great. If it's TOO tight, and you think it needs to be modified, e-mail or PM me.

I have also recieved A set o these lights.All I can say is WOW
I don't think you'll find better.I am very happy with these
lights.Absolutely fantastic,Nothing but props from me.I highly
recomend these lights to everyone.Shackman has really outdone
himself.

Just so no one thinks I'm ignoring this last post, it has been taken to e-mail.

The "budget" boards have all been sold or spoken for, so first off, I want to say "THANKS" to everyone that bought them. I was happier selling them at a discount, and getting people on a bidget a set of lights, than just throwing away my prototypes.

But if anyone else wants a set of lights down the road a bit (or now for that matter), the "final" version is still available. And once I run out of etched boards, I can always order more if the demand is there. So no rush on those ... they don't "run out" until the Fett suit builders decide it's time.

Currently I think Shackman's your only choice (I'm sure anyone else who makes them will correct me if I'm wrong. If so, apologies).

Neil, you might want to wait a few days. I'm currently discussing a seperate project with an electronics company, and have literally this morning asked them if they could do anything like the chest displays.

Watch this space. Should have an idea of whether it's poss and, if so, a price, very soon.