Source for custom peghead decals?

I'm getting ready to finish a neck and decided that it'd be fun to get a decal made for the peghead. I know that you can do-it-yourself with a computer, special decal printer paper and a laser printer, but I want it to be "fenderish" looking (don't worry, it won't be a Fender copy) with the gold filled script, and you can't get that metallic look with a printer.
Anyone know if there's somewhere I could get a couple of decals made?

Check out victory circle graphix (www.vcgraphix.com). They specialize in custom decals for bikes, motorcycles, and cars. However they're REAL speciality is doing super small orders. I just made a custom road bike from scratch and did all my own decal graphic work and needed someone to make 'em. They have a great reputation in the cycling industry so I called them up.

I think it's a $40 minimum order (check with AJ, he's awesome) but it can be as simple or crazy as you like. I made 6 decals, one was 20"x6" of flames and one was my signature (super detailed and small), all in metallic silver with a black hairline outline. SWEET! (and very "Fender," as you desire).

Holy-cow they were awesome, they even made me dupes of each in case I screwed up the application, no charge. All the decals are self adhesive and have clear backing to help the application.

Definitely give them a call. If you can make a vector graphics file of it, they can print it any way you like.

The only problem with cut vinyl graphics like you've described Davee, is that they are a minimum of 2 mils thick. That's the high performance vinyl used in automotive graphics. To begin, you can't cut this stuff by computer in shapes much smaller than 5/16" and the 2 mil thickness is a bear to totally bury in a clear coat.

Dry transfer is the only way to do it if you don't have an offset press to make decals like the original.

That is true, but these guys really are bicycle decal makers, not automotive decal makers. The tips of the flames on my bike's decals and the outline of my signature have radii of under 0.0007" which were printed and (nearly) cut. This I know since I modeled at the details in CAD first. Since I don't have the cash to throw at a clearcoat I had them cut some clear around the printed edge to prevent peeling at high speed. Riiiight.

As far as thickness is concerned, yeah, .002" is about right, but you get what you pay for and the clear edge does not stand out at all, eliminating the shadow edge which usually makes that 2 thou look thicker than paper (which is usually about 2 mils as well, as you know, but others may not).

Dry rub, decal, whatever. It's whatever you want. The decals won't lie flat, but the colors will be far more saturated, rich, and varied. The dry rub will probably look cleaner and the rubbed look may look a bit more "vintage." It's not apples and oranges, but it certainly will be a personal taste thing.

That is true, but these guys really are bicycle decal makers, not automotive decal makers. The tips of the flames on my bike's decals and the outline of my signature have radii of under 0.0007" which were printed and (nearly) cut. This I know since I modeled at the details in CAD first. Since I don't have the cash to throw at a clearcoat I had them cut some clear around the printed edge to prevent peeling at high speed. Riiiight.

As far as thickness is concerned, yeah, .002" is about right, but you get what you pay for and the clear edge does not stand out at all, eliminating the shadow edge which usually makes that 2 thou look thicker than paper (which is usually about 2 mils as well, as you know, but others may not).

Dry rub, decal, whatever. It's whatever you want. The decals won't lie flat, but the colors will be far more saturated, rich, and varied. The dry rub will probably look cleaner and the rubbed look may look a bit more "vintage." It's not apples and oranges, but it certainly will be a personal taste thing.

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The radii you mention is a natural result of the offset of the blade angle from it's rotational center. It is likely your guys are using what is called a "tangential" cutter or one with a motorized knife. It's computer controller actually turns the knife into the cut as it goes along. This allows very small cuts in the light high performance material. You mentioned your stuff was printed - perhaps on a Gerber? Edge or Maxx? The print/cut features on these machines can get the resolution you've described.

Dry transfer is a great method of getting rich color without background. For the better part of 20 years we used it for pachaging comps to show clients. It's not in favor as much now but it's quality couldn't be beat. Put a quick clear coat over it to protect it and you can't tell it from an original decal except maybe under 10x magnification.

Custom Dry Transfers the letraset ones. Have you all used them? What program did you use to send the artwork to them? Can you spray over them to protect them?.....thanks ..........t

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I've use them in several different types of projects. You can cover them with any oil based clear coat. They don't seem to react well to the water based things. They don't bleed - the coating will crawl off though.

A few years back, I designed a project that had to have a small, intricate, 2 color logo (1 of them metallic!) put on 140 outdoor building identifiers. They were tied in architecturally with the whole wayfinding and landscaping scheme. The only way we could do it is to use dry transfers. I made the file and had it produced locally. We applied them to the previously painted panels along with vinyl numbers then clear coated them to seal. They are still in service now 8 years later without sign of fading or weathering other than dirt on the faces.

I use Corel exclusively but as long as you keep your file as a high rez .tif, .eps, .ai, .ps, you should be fine. Just check with the vendor for what they recommend.