You are dead on correct. I admit that I followed Harold's method. Mostly because it was winter in New England and there wasn't anything else to do to the boat. I brought the platform into the basement and did a bunch of thin coats. And then I went to NC for the reunion and Lee from MCOC hit the deck hard walking across the boats tied up to the dock. Both feet up and flat on his back. Fortunately he wasn't hurt and was still recovering from shoulder surgery. Didn't even lose the cell phone he was talking on. It's slippery as hell. Then I was fortunate that Harold took me for a ski behind his '89. But I wasn't allowed to use his platform to put my ski on. Had to use my own. Last time a ski was used on that platform was when the first Geroge Bush was in office, by his own admittance. And lastly, actually using the platform for skis and boards will most definitely scratch it quickly and wear off the finish. I've said before that I was looking for something different for the teak. I'll try Tommy's method next time.

having a skiboat and NOT being able to use the platform is like having a women and not being able to use her_________!:D

ski/hunt

01-28-2011, 12:44 PM

Well said SIR!!

I hang with this old timer that calls that "worthless as ti_s on a boar hog"

Kyle

01-28-2011, 01:49 PM

Well I was yanking your chain to be honest.

The platform looks great.

I run 38 off all day long behind an electric boat!

Noticing from your previous boat and current MC (both wake boats not ski boats), you must be running -38 on a green ball mini course and slow speeds. If you are referring to the CC electric boat and your skills running actual times on a record capable course then hoooooray for u, see you at the nationals.

CantRepeat

01-28-2011, 02:02 PM

Noticing from your previous boat and current MC (both wake boats not ski boats), you must be running -38 on a green ball mini course and slow speeds. If you are referring to the CC electric boat and your skills running actual times on a record capable course then hoooooray for u, see you at the nationals.

I'll assume you didn't see the thread with this link in it.

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/8217733/

I guess my humor has not come over well. :(

east tx skier

01-28-2011, 05:00 PM

There is always someone who worships Harold and his 80 hour way. If any one uses a platform in the way it is inteded to be used, they would be sanding, oiling, wet sanding, buffing, pledging, and putting what ever special juice all over it and not be skiing. I bet if you had an hour meter clocking the time it took to OCD over a piece of teak vs an hour meter on the boat, the boat would be lower. Then you could have a shiny platform and no skiing skills and you could be "THAT GUY" who tells every one dont step on the teak and make it an unpleasant lake trip for everyone.

I use mine like you use yours. I have, for several years, sanded, applied a coat, let it dry, and resanded. I quit after about 3 or four coats the first time. Since then, I just lightly sand to get rid of scratches and apply one coat. I don't wet sand or take it crazy high on the paper grit. As mentioned, it's too slick to use as intended when you do that. My platform is not slick and also lasts the entire season looking good enough, but does show some scratches. I also have not had to buy teak oil for years. I guess I just don't use much. Why this might be is (1) I'm not using a sealer either. I use Amazon golden teak oil, which may just be a blend of mineral spirits and linseed oil for all I know. It probably has some varnish in it (they all have varying levels), which is why you have to wipe it off (can't just let it dry) or it will get a dull look to it. I have enough teak oil leftover for at least another year. After that, I may look into Tommy's method. Or, I may just buy more of the Amazon stuff. It has worked pretty well and has been much more durable than I ever expected.

One question. Does that blend get on the bottom of your skis?

Kyle

01-28-2011, 09:03 PM

I use mine like you use yours. I have, for several years, sanded, applied a coat, let it dry, and resanded. I quit after about 3 or four coats the first time. Since then, I just lightly sand to get rid of scratches and apply one coat. I don't wet sand or take it crazy high on the paper grit. As mentioned, it's too slick to use as intended when you do that. My platform is not slick and also lasts the entire season looking good enough, but does show some scratches. I also have not had to buy teak oil for years. I guess I just don't use much. Why this might be is (1) I'm not using a sealer either. I use Amazon golden teak oil, which may just be a blend of mineral spirits and linseed oil for all I know. It probably has some varnish in it (they all have varying levels), which is why you have to wipe it off (can't just let it dry) or it will get a dull look to it. I have enough teak oil leftover for at least another year. After that, I may look into Tommy's method. Or, I may just buy more of the Amazon stuff. It has worked pretty well and has been much more durable than I ever expected.

One question. Does that blend get on the bottom of your skis?

No it tries and is not greasy. I sit on my platform every time the boat goes out. Never stained a swim suit either. Water will bead off of it. It also does not leave a BP slick behind the boat when it's in the water. I do rinse it off with water before going to the lake just to get excess oil off. Other than that it dries like a fine piece of furniture but you will not slip on it. It you want it real slickery then keep oiling it without sanding. It will be as smooth as glass and then you will bust your bass!

east tx skier

01-28-2011, 09:09 PM

No it tries and is not greasy. I sit on my platform every time the boat goes out. Never stained a swim suit either. Water will bead off of it. It also does not leave a BP slick behind the boat when it's in the water. I do rinse it off with water before going to the lake just to get excess oil off. Other than that it dries like a fine piece of furniture but you will not slip on it. It you want it real slickery then keep oiling it without sanding. It will be as smooth as glass and then you will bust your bass!

I think that "sealant" plus fine sanding is the real slick platform maker. With moderate sanding and the Amazon product, it's not slick at all and still looks nice. Not that I wouldn't give the mixture you mentioned a try. But with what I use and the longevity I get, I'm definitely in a "not broke, don't fix it" state of mind. Still, I may give the mix a shot just to see how it stacks up. If it's better, it'll be time for a change.

bbymgr

01-28-2011, 11:04 PM

There is always someone who worships Harold and his 80 hour way. If any one uses a platform in the way it is inteded to be used, they would be sanding, oiling, wet sanding, buffing, pledging, and putting what ever special juice all over it and not be skiing. I bet if you had an hour meter clocking the time it took to OCD over a piece of teak vs an hour meter on the boat, the boat would be lower. Then you could have a shiny platform and no skiing skills and you could be "THAT GUY" who tells every one dont step on the teak and make it an unpleasant lake trip for everyone.

Wow.........................that sounded like a whole lot of estrogen is controlling your emotions.:cool:

AZDave

02-02-2011, 02:04 PM

I tried the Linseed/Mineral Spirit combination. I have never seen my Teak look better. It seems to bring out a more natural look than Teak Oil/ Sealer and is really cheap!

Kyle

02-02-2011, 05:22 PM

AZDave

It also lasts. I put 2 coats on mine. Glad u liked the combination. Oh and pics???

TayMC197

02-02-2011, 05:41 PM

Results...... Finished product NOT done the way TMC#1 does his. This is Teak World Enterprises way. Talk to Tommy Nation. He works on teak every day for a living. I trust he knows what he is doing. Put away the 2000 grit,pledge, and the buffer. I use my platform for putting on skis, wakeboards, and to get into my sky ski as well as getting into the boat. I use it and abuse it, I do not put a table cloth and dishes on it with fine china. The instructions above drive me crazy.

I first sanded with the grain with 80 grit. Used a broom and dusted it off. Then mixed the linseed oil and mineral spirits.

This is 80% linseed oil and 20% mineral spirits.

I apply with a brush and let dry for about an hour. Then I wipe it off with a paper towel.

2 weeks later or when its warm enough to stand apply another coat. Wait an hour or so and wipe off again. Your teak will look brand new again and all of the nicks and scratches will be gone.

I promise you will not bust butt on the platform doing it this way. The above instructions or way will leave someone falling down and getting hurt. I am sorry oiled down teak at 2000 grit, wet sanded, pledged and polished will be like roller blading on an ice rink. Its pretty to look at but not practical.

You can get a gallon of the linseed oil and a quart of the mineral spirits for the same price as one quart of teak oil. I have been oiling mine and my buddies for now 3 years and I am still on my first gallon. This has already saved me $200 in teak oil. Total cost for the last 3 years and 2 boats is $35 ish. This is Tommy's way.

Nice to see you added the 3rd light...

Kyle

02-02-2011, 09:22 PM

Nice to see you added the 3rd light...

Good eye. It makes a big difference.

CantRepeat

02-15-2011, 07:06 PM

I've heard a lot of people ask about sanding the insides of the slats on their swim steps/platforms so I figured I'd show what I do.

On my 92 I had a ton of slats so I made a wooden dowel and cut it to fit my drill and cut slot to put some 220 sand paper in. On my 06 it's just the two grab holds but still, I like easy.

One tip, don't hold it in one spot to long.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hzTVzqQA4I

No singing this time, promise:D

Table Rocker

02-15-2011, 07:46 PM

No singing this time, promise:D
You could have thrown in a little Enter Sandman and been okay I think.

Covi

02-15-2011, 08:20 PM

I've heard a lot of people ask about sanding the insides of the slats on their swim steps/platforms so I figured I'd show what I do.

On my 92 I had a ton of slats so I made a wooden dowel and cut it to fit my drill and cut slot to put some 220 sand paper in. On my 06 it's just the two grab holds but still, I like easy.

One tip, don't hold it in one spot to long.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hzTVzqQA4I

No singing this time, promise:D

No singing but I see your still drinking. I wish I had a dollar for all the coors lites that I have drank. Great tip my 86 is full of slats I'm going to try it out in the spring. I have also used this tool.

http://www.themultimastersystem.com/index.jsp

It's not cheap but works great. Great for all those nooks and crannies....

I tried the Linseed/Mineral Spirit combination. I have never seen my Teak look better. It seems to bring out a more natural look than Teak Oil/ Sealer and is really cheap!

Where do I find Linseed oil?

east tx skier

02-15-2011, 10:49 PM

Where do I find Linseed oil?

I looked just for grins when I was at Home Depot the other day and did not spot it.

east tx skier

02-15-2011, 10:50 PM

Looking good counselor!

Thank you. Just a quick sanding with 220 grit, a coat of Amazon teak oil, dry, a rub with some "0" steel wool and another coat, and drying now. Should last me until next year.

CantRepeat

02-15-2011, 11:08 PM

Where do I find Linseed oil?

Home depot, paint department next to the spirits.

CantRepeat

02-16-2011, 03:34 PM

DA sander with 220 to strip off whatever was on there before, starbrite teak cleaner, then brightener.

80/20 linseed\mineral spirits with a brush and wipped it off after an hour. Not so sure I'll even do a second coat.

http://mikesell.net/images/boat/teakn.jpg

TOO-TALL

02-19-2011, 03:49 PM

Did the 80/20 mix.

Seems like the shine on the teak stays longer.I put it on wednesday wiped it off and the shine is still there today.
With the teak oil I was useing it would dull after a day.
Even after I wiped off the excess 80/20 mix it still had a greasy feel to it.So I have the plateform in the sun today.
Well see if its any more durable this summer.

JLMONTANA

02-19-2011, 11:20 PM

Well, its 4 degrees outside and snowing. I decided to thaw out the winter blues by refinishing the teak deck. I did the 400/600/1000 grit sanding with teak oil in between. We'll see how it goes as I'm watching the last coat dry. It looks identical to when I took it out of the water for the last time in September. Can't wait until summer!

Kyle

02-19-2011, 11:30 PM

DA sander with 220 to strip off whatever was on there before, starbrite teak cleaner, then brightener.

80/20 linseed\mineral spirits with a brush and wipped it off after an hour. Not so sure I'll even do a second coat.

http://mikesell.net/images/boat/teakn.jpg

Look great man

Kyle

02-19-2011, 11:32 PM

Did the 80/20 mix.

Seems like the shine on the teak stays longer.I put it on wednesday wiped it off and the shine is still there today.
With the teak oil I was useing it would dull after a day.
Even after I wiped off the excess 80/20 mix it still had a greasy feel to it.So I have the plateform in the sun today.
Well see if its any more durable this summer.

It will dry. Wipe it down with a paper towel. Let it sit in the sun. It will dry completely in a week or less. Warmer weather dries quicker.

remiller

02-20-2011, 09:53 AM

Don't sand it ,But I do clean it thoroughly with teak cleaner then 2 coats of teak oil. It looks pretty darn good! ! Also while I was at it I waxed the boat and changed the oil . Ready to ski today . .

JLMONTANA

02-20-2011, 05:14 PM

Don't sand it ,But I do clean it thoroughly with teak cleaner then 2 coats of teak oil. It looks pretty darn good! ! Also while I was at it I waxed the boat and changed the oil . Ready to ski today . .
With just the teak oil, have you experienced any transfer onto swim suits, etc.? Unlike some, we use our deck a ton and I'm less concerned with getting a few dings than I am having it soil suits and being slippery.

Kyle

02-20-2011, 07:14 PM

It will dry. Wipe it down with a paper towel. Let it sit in the sun. It will dry completely in a week or less. Warmer weather dries quicker.

Oh and after you let it sit wash it with soap and water. Then it will dry completely and not be oily or tacky. The teak will only take so much oil. After it is finishing absorbing all it wants, wash it. It will be exactly what you are looking for.

TOO-TALL

02-20-2011, 08:08 PM

It sat in the sun all day saturday and the platform in dry now no greasy feel.

remiller

02-21-2011, 09:30 AM

Took some pics this morning After 2 days in the water & usage . No oil transfer to suits . Really looks nice ,compliments the boat. Look how flat the water is this beautiful Presidents day morning . . Temps her are high 70's to low 80's . NICE !

psychobilly

02-21-2011, 09:33 AM

Look'n good man!

Ya know I was ride'n on the lake last week and I saw this real nice MC, couldn't see what model as it was in a boat shed. It was sweet, chrome exhaust with the MC logo on it... Anyway, yep the teak was in BAD shape..... Made me sick to see it..... Such a nice boat and the owners don't give a rats ... about it......

remiller

02-21-2011, 09:38 AM

There's a mid 80;s M/C 3 blocks from me sitting in side yard and has become a catch all ,if you know what I .. Everything in it but the kitchen sink . . I'll post pics later , what a shame !

03geetee

02-21-2011, 05:47 PM

There's a mid 80;s M/C 3 blocks from me sitting in side yard and has become a catch all ,if you know what I .. Everything in it but the kitchen sink . . I'll post pics later , what a shame !

Post pics we can save her!

JTR

Grantx15

02-28-2011, 04:55 PM

My teak swim deck has become almost a bright white color when its dry. But once I put it in the water it turns a nice orange color again. But I wish It would stay nice looking wet or dry.
So what are some tips for doing this project? Do I sand the teak? Or just stain it? And does anyone have a preference on what kind of stain or oil to use? I want it to look good but I donít want it to be glossy and Slippery.
Any advice would be helpful.
Thanks

h2oskifreak

02-28-2011, 05:00 PM

You have come to the right place. Just wait and several members will be along shortly w/ links to threads and helpful little tidbits. Teak lovers abound here.

BIGBADBLUE

02-28-2011, 05:09 PM

Go to the FAQ's. They have a great teak process. It will walk you through the entire process and it is simple

CantRepeat

02-28-2011, 05:35 PM

There's probably 10 different ways posted on this board on how to do teak. I've tried a couple of them and while one might be shinner then some others its better left for the show boats.

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/teak2010.jpg

In this post: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=729099&postcount=240

Kyle used an 80/20 mixture of linseed oil and mineral spirits. It does make a great finished color.

Something I would recommend also is using the starbrite cleaner and brightener after you sand. Kyle usesd 80 grit by hand and I used 220 on a DA sander, I'm lazy like that.

So, sand, clean, brighten, and then a couple of coats of that 80/20 will get you this.

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/teakn.jpg

east tx skier

02-28-2011, 06:32 PM

I get good results with a light sanding at about 120 grit. Sweep the excess. Apply Amazon teak oil. Wait about 10 minutes and wipe off. Let dry (usually about a week during the winter when I'm doing this. Once dry, hit it with some zero grit steel wool lightly. Add one more coat of oil. Wipe after 10 minutes and let it dry. Don't worry about the platform for another year and use as intended.

It's not the shiniest result you'll see or the dullest. But it's not slick when you're standing on, which is crucial, and it and looks pretty nice.

I have a 84 S&S so it may be different to get off, but do you have to pull the gas tank in order to get to the other side of the bolts to take the teak off? Mine needs tightening up a bit and PO said the bolts on the outside were as far in as they would go and I'd have to pull the gas tank in order to get to the other side and tighten them. I'm assuming if I wanted to take it completely off I would have to pull the gas tanks as well.

JohnE

02-28-2011, 08:46 PM

I'm going with the linseed oil/ mineral spirits next time. I've used the starbrite the past 3 years.

CantRepeat

02-28-2011, 09:31 PM

I'm going with the linseed oil/ mineral spirits next time. I've used the starbrite the past 3 years.

You wont be sorry you did. It looks factory and is far less work then the other method I used. ;)

Grantx15

03-01-2011, 08:50 AM

There's probably 10 different ways posted on this board on how to do teak. I've tried a couple of them and while one might be shinner then some others its better left for the show boats.

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/teak2010.jpg

In this post: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=729099&postcount=240

Kyle used an 80/20 mixture of linseed oil and mineral spirits. It does make a great finished color.

Something I would recommend also is using the starbrite cleaner and brightener after you sand. Kyle usesd 80 grit by hand and I used 220 on a DA sander, I'm lazy like that.

So, sand, clean, brighten, and then a couple of coats of that 80/20 will get you this.

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/teakn.jpg

I am going to try it this way. it looks great! i looked up linseed oil seems to be a bunch of different brands. any brand that you recommend? or are they all pretty much the same thing.

Grantx15

03-01-2011, 08:52 AM

^oops didint mean to repost that entire post.

CantRepeat

03-01-2011, 08:56 AM

I got it from Home Depot, Kleen Strip boiled linseed oil. It's the only one I've ever used so I have no data on other products.

Grantx15

03-01-2011, 09:03 AM

not a close up of the teak but you can see how white it is. cant wait to refinish it

Grantx15

03-01-2011, 09:10 AM

ok i will look for that type then.
Thanks

Thrall

03-01-2011, 09:43 AM

Teak oil will five it a little darker hue than the linseed oil. I may switch to that.
If it's just silver then you may not need to use the teak cleaner. If it's kinda black then the cleaner is required.
I don't like the cleaner unless necessary. It seems to take away some of the softer grain requiring more sanding to get back to smooth, IMO.
FOr a non slip yet smooth finish I use 220 grit as the finest grit.

Kyle

03-01-2011, 10:27 AM

Look here

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=14640&page=24

Post 238 and 240

I did these platforms at the same time. Same day same sand paper and same mixture for 1 coat each platform.

A month later I re oiled them on another batch to do both platforms.

My buddy's platform came out darker where mine was lighter. Everything was made from the same batch. The color is kinda uncontrollable. Linseed oil will give you a lighter look than teak oil.

CantRepeat

03-01-2011, 10:44 AM

Look here

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=14640&page=24

Post 238 and 240

I did these platforms at the same time. Same day same sand paper and same mixture for 1 coat each platform.

A month later I re oiled them on another batch to do both platforms.

My buddy's platform came out darker where mine was lighter. Everything was made from the same batch. The color is kinda uncontrollable. Linseed oil will give you a lighter look than teak oil.

I also linked him to post 240.

Kyle

03-01-2011, 11:03 AM

I also linked him to post 240.

I will wake up now Tim. Head is out of my *** now.

On with the thread :D

G-Star

03-15-2011, 01:38 AM

Here is what I did all day...

I have my platform sanded and my buddys '03 209 sanded. I had a little help with my little brown friend.

I am going to use linseed oil and mineral spirits. 80% linseed oil and 20$ spirits. This is what Tommy Nation recommends to use instead of teak oil. Tommy owns Teak World Enterprise. He makes teak platforms for Mastercraft.

Therefore I will not be using Teak Oil. I will show after pics when it gets oiled.

Kyle,

Thanks for the info on this method. Sounds much more practical for the majority of us.

How much of the 80/20 mixture should a guy make to do the 1st coat? I'm guessing about 250 mL?

Also, I assume you give the bottom of the platform the same treatment?

aquaman

03-15-2011, 08:49 AM

There's a mid 80;s M/C 3 blocks from me sitting in side yard and has become a catch all ,if you know what I .. Everything in it but the kitchen sink . . I'll post pics later , what a shame !

Post pics.......the owner should be ashamed for treating her like that. :mad:

Kyle

03-15-2011, 09:49 AM

Kyle,

Thanks for the info on this method. Sounds much more practical for the majority of us.

How much of the 80/20 mixture should a guy make to do the 1st coat? I'm guessing about 250 mL?

Also, I assume you give the bottom of the platform the same treatment?

I use about 20 ounces for both platforms. Mix 8 and 2 and you should have enough for a coat or two. It won't go bad if you don't use it all. I use a coke or water bottle so I can shake it up amd cap it off. As far as the bottom of platform sometimes it gets treatment. The 209 got treatment my 190 did not. That is as needed basis.

Sodar

03-15-2011, 10:11 AM

Harold is having a heart attach about now....

thatsmrmastercraft

03-15-2011, 10:22 AM

Harold is having a heart attach about now....

Will the effects be great enough that the doctors tell him he needs to come back to lower his blood pressure.................oh wait, that might increase his blood presure even more.

JohnE

03-15-2011, 10:29 AM

Harold is having a heart attach about now....

He's pacing and cursing for sure.:D

Sodar

03-15-2011, 10:34 AM

If I could make one of those Hitler parody movies, I would.

The downfall of the 11 step teak method.

CantRepeat

03-15-2011, 10:49 AM

If I could make one of those Hitler parody movies, I would.

The downfall of the 11 step teak method.

What is this linseed oil!!!

Everybody out!!

Craig

03-15-2011, 11:51 AM

I am in 100% agreement with others with regard to Harold's technique. His technique is very well suited for folks who want to show their boat but it never seemed practical to me as we like to put 150+ hrs a year on our boat.

When I first got my boat two years ago I refinished the teak using a very similar approach to both Kyle and east tx skier. I also used the Starbrite three step kit, and obviously the Starbrite teak oil.

I did a light sanding with some 400 grit paper after the cleaning and pre-oil. Then I simply put 5 coats of teak oil with a couple of days of drying time between coats. Additionally, I would put the platform out in the sun whenever possible to help speed this up. When I was finished I had a platform that stayed clean, kept color, and retained the same functionality as when I started.

Furthermore, it stayed nice all season and only requires some small touch-ups in the spring each year, much like east tx skier described.

The linseed oil mixture seems like an interesting approach. Maybe I missed it, what is the advantage to this mixture over the teak oil?

Regardless of your sealant of choice the general steps involved seems to be:

1) Clean platform to have a good base to start with
2) Some light sanding to get rid of any overly rough spots
3) Finally, a few coats of your sealant of choice. Allow drying between coats and/or wipe off excess.

This is really just a lite version of Harold's technique for those of us who use our platforms.

G-Star

03-15-2011, 01:00 PM

I use about 20 ounces for both platforms. Mix 8 and 2 and you should have enough for a coat or two. It won't go bad if you don't use it all. I use a coke or water bottle so I can shake it up amd cap it off. As far as the bottom of platform sometimes it gets treatment. The 209 got treatment my 190 did not. That is as needed basis.

Roger that. I'll post up some pics when I'm done.

It looks like the PO might have put a varnish or something on there at one point in time... should be fun to sand all that off :rolleyes:

One more question: do you usually remove the mounting brackets and transom saver to make it a bit easier on yourself?

Kyle

03-16-2011, 12:12 PM

The linseed oil mixture seems like an interesting approach. Maybe I missed it, what is the advantage to this mixture over the teak oil.

I was recommended by a man Tommy Nation who I believe owns Teak World to resurface my platform this way. I asked how he resurfaced teak platforms when I purchased a teak platform from him. He has been building Mastercraft teak platforms for over 20 years. I wanted a solid deck and he said that the 197's have the same transom curve as my '93 190 so I bought a 197 platform to replace my raggedy and rickety slotted platform. I asked tons of questions and his service is excellent. I received my new platform and transom saver in the mail and was totally impressed by his craftsmanship. He advised me teak oil would not be on the platform as he only uses mineral spirits and linseed oil. The platform was so nice that I continued using his method. I figured a man with this experience knows exactly what he is talking about. He plays teak every single day.

Kyle

03-16-2011, 12:17 PM

Roger that. I'll post up some pics when I'm done.

It looks like the PO might have put a varnish or something on there at one point in time... should be fun to sand all that off :rolleyes:

One more question: do you usually remove the mounting brackets and transom saver to make it a bit easier on yourself?

Don't be afraid to sand with the grain with 60 or 80 grit. That will remove anything from your platform. Teak is a soft wood. I use either 60 or 80 after I use my orbital sander with say 120 grit. The 60 or 80 removes the swirl marks from the orbital. It also will help with not making a slickery surface.

I personally don't like removing screws for brackets or the transom saver. Teak is soft and eventually with removing and replacing the screws every time you resurface, you will waller out the threads and need to put in bigger screws. Personally I sand and oil with brackets on.

G-Star

03-16-2011, 01:30 PM

Sanding complete. I was surprised how much material I needed to sand away to get rid of all the whitened teak. I removed the brackets to complete a different repair, but I agree you wouldn't want to remove/replace screws more often than absolutely necessary.

So, my platform is all sanded and ready for the linseed oil mixture. Here's a couple pics of the process...

1st pic: Before.
2nd pic: 1st sanding. Removed a lot of the white, but the deeper stuff required a lot more work.
3rd pic: Finally! Sanded and ready for oil.

Kyle,
After I apply the linseed oil, then wait an hour and wipe off the excess, can I move the platform, or does it pretty much have to stay where it is (untouched) for a week or so to continue drying?

Thanks for your help with this!

Kyle

03-16-2011, 03:42 PM

Kyle,
After I apply the linseed oil, then wait an hour and wipe off the excess, can I move the platform, or does it pretty much have to stay where it is (untouched) for a week or so to continue drying?

Thanks for your help with this!

You can move it but it will be oily and not be dry. I would do the bottom and let it sit for a day or two. Temp is in 60' or 70's now. Dry time is faster. Then I would fix your bracket issue. Last do the top and make your teak look like a fine piece of furniture.

Kyle

03-16-2011, 03:46 PM

I love how Harold would refer to his platform as a fine piece of furniture. What a joke. If he O. C. Bagged over not touching the platform with skis and no one could use it then he shure as hell did not use it to pull up a chair and eat off of it. He cracks me up.

G-Star

03-16-2011, 03:49 PM

You can move it but it will be oily and not be dry. I would do the bottom and let it sit for a day or two. Temp is in 60' or 70's now. Dry time is faster. Then I would fix your bracket issue. Last do the top and make your teak look like a fine piece of furniture.

Bracket issue is already fixed. Wasn't as bad as I thought... :rolleyes: I guess I was expecting a total mess.

60s or 70s?? Its 30s and 40s up here... might hit 50 today if I'm lucky 8p. Regardless, I'll start with the bottom as you suggested. I'll probably just try to set up a space to do it in my basement so I can leave it sitting in a warmer place without having to move it around at all.

Kyle

03-16-2011, 04:06 PM

Bracket issue is already fixed. Wasn't as bad as I thought... :rolleyes: I guess I was expecting a total mess.

60s or 70s?? Its 30s and 40s up here... might hit 50 today if I'm lucky 8p. Regardless, I'll start with the bottom as you suggested. I'll probably just try to set up a space to do it in my basement so I can leave it sitting in a warmer place without having to move it around at all.

2pm sunny and 75 degrees out. :D

G-Star

03-16-2011, 04:13 PM

2pm sunny and 75 degrees out. :D

Noon, sunny and 45F... but I'll take it. At least it's above freezing!

G-Star

03-16-2011, 06:22 PM

Apparently I'm an idiot... pics fixed :S

Kyle

03-16-2011, 11:07 PM

Very nice work and such a fine piece of furniture.

G-Star

03-16-2011, 11:21 PM

I'm pretty happy with the results so far. 80-grit gets it amazingly smooth. I honestly can't imagine how it would be with 2000-grit.

JohnE

03-17-2011, 09:33 AM

I'm pretty happy with the results so far. 80-grit gets it amazingly smooth. I honestly can't imagine how it would be with 2000-grit.

Slippery as hell.

CantRepeat

03-17-2011, 10:11 AM

Slippery as hell.

Extremely Slippery as hell. ;)

Duane D

03-22-2011, 09:23 AM

Hi all, I am planning on de-winterizing and getting in the water for the first time next weekend. I can't sit idly by and let all these 80 degree days go by any more! As I am getting everything ready to back down the ramp, I want to make sure I treat and care for my teak platform correctly. I have an '06 X2, my first MC, that I just bought late last season. I have never had a boat with a teak platform and I am not sure what the proper products and steps are to make sure it continues to look good and last a long time. I apologize if there is already a thread covering this topic. Thanks!

mjb100798

03-22-2011, 09:29 AM

If you do a quick search for teak care, you will find lots of info, also can look in the FAQ section should be a write up or two in there as well....

Jay

CantRepeat

03-22-2011, 09:47 AM

Start at post 240

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=14640&page=6

JohnE

03-22-2011, 09:48 AM

Some good info in this thread. http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=14640

There are 2 popular methods. One is TMCNo1's which is around here somewhere. Platform will look like a piece of furniture when you are done, but will be slippery and will scratch easy in my experience. The other is from someone at teakworld. Kyle posted it someplace. I plan to go that route. It's a mixture of linseed oil and mineral spirits.

Duane D

03-22-2011, 09:59 AM

Start at post 240

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=14640&page=6

Thanks much for the link to the previous thread CantRepeat. I am not worried at all about little nicks and scratches as the platform will be used for its orginal intent as a place to attach boards to feet. I just want to make sure the teak is treated correctly so it will last a long time. Looks like linseed oil and mineral spirits will work just fine.

CantRepeat

03-22-2011, 10:18 AM

Thanks much for the link to the previous thread CantRepeat. I am not worried at all about little nicks and scratches as the platform will be used for its orginal intent as a place to attach boards to feet. I just want to make sure the teak is treated correctly so it will last a long time. Looks like linseed oil and mineral spirits will work just fine.

Anytime.

I've done both methods and as pointed out, the linseed/mineral is the better choice unless you are taking your boat to a show or something. I've got a couple of trips to the lake this year and it is holding up pretty well. The fact that it only took an hour was well worth the test. The finish is smooth, not slippery and looks very nice.

airdrew99

03-22-2011, 10:37 AM

Cant repeat,
Do you have any pics of what your platform looks like? I've never seen how the linseed/mineral looks. I alway used TMC#1's method. It sure took some time to do.
Drew

east tx skier

03-22-2011, 10:42 AM

I'll post up a third method for what it's worth. Very easy, not time consuming, not slick, and pretty much maintenance free for the season. It's basically like the linseed oil/mineral spirits method. For all I know, that's all Amazon teak oil (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=amazon+teak+oil&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=hCi&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=ivns&biw=1440&bih=740&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=7643747659143992898&sa=X&ei=tqmITZu8NIWO0QGtk6TpDQ&ved=0CH8Q8wIwAw#) is. I started using this stuff because that's what my local dealer sells. They like it because they have found it to hold up well. I tend to agree. I'm not saying that this method is anything better than what someone else does. It just happens to work for me. Do what works for you.

1. Sand platform with 120 grit and sweep off the dust with a broom or tack cloth.
2. Apply Amazon teak oil with the palm of your hand (I think one of the things that makes the other method so slick is that Starbrite teak sealer).
3. Wait about 10 minutes and wipe off the excess.
4. Let the platform dry for several days (sunshine is helpful).
5. Apply one more coat of teak oil and wipe down after 10 minutes. I like to hit the platform lightly with some 0 grade steel wool before this step, but it's not absolutely necessary.
6. Let it dry and you're done.

I have gotten very consistent results with this method. I stand on my platform to put on my ski. This method is not for show boats, but still looks nice.

This is the platform after oiling. I'll try to remember to snap an end of season shot this year to show you how it wears. It will have some scratches, but, overall, looks nice for the wear. I have been on the same bottle of Amazon for well over 4 seasons and probably have another couple of seasons left. It doesn't take much.

Does everyone sand before applying the teak oil? Wouldn't sanding just remove teak from the platform? I thought the discolouration of the teak was a natural process. The wood just needs to be cleaned and then re-oiled. I don't know... I could be wrong.

CantRepeat

03-22-2011, 11:52 AM

Kyle is this what you used on your teak?

That's what I used, but it was an off brand and all of them said boiled linseed oil so I figured that was it.

CantRepeat

03-22-2011, 11:54 AM

Cant repeat,
Do you have any pics of what your platform looks like? I've never seen how the linseed/mineral looks. I alway used TMC#1's method. It sure took some time to do.
Drew

Ask and you shall receive! This is Kyle's way.

http://mikesell.net/images/boat/teakn.jpg

CantRepeat

03-22-2011, 11:58 AM

As you can see they are two completely different types of finish.

Both look great, but one is for showing the other is for use.

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/teak2010.jpg

east tx skier

03-22-2011, 01:39 PM

Does everyone sand before applying the teak oil? Wouldn't sanding just remove teak from the platform? I thought the discolouration of the teak was a natural process. The wood just needs to be cleaned and then re-oiled. I don't know... I could be wrong.

I forgot to mention that the sanding, at least as I use it, only gets done about every 3 years or so. I usually just smooth things out with the steel wool and apply one coat of teak oil in the spring. As for the graying, I don't know. I have never had mine get to that point.

Barefooter92

03-22-2011, 01:43 PM

Did the TMC#1 process last year took a week to finish three coats. I then stopped because it was time to enjoy the boat. Got the teak protected for the summer.

I just started Monday night sanding and hope to finish this week. I am using an off the shelf product from Lowes for teak. I will keep you posted on the progress.

I tried the product on an old ski and it works great in two coats!

xbot50000

03-22-2011, 02:00 PM

The steel wool is a good idea instead of sanding. You can spend a lot of time sanding the platform, but the results can be replicated by using only teak cleaner and a soft bristle brush. The greying is caused by mold.

Grantx15

03-22-2011, 03:46 PM

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=411&pictureid=2789
begging to be refinished!

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=411&pictureid=2790
light sanding on the first board of the deck, to compare.
the entire deck is now sanded and just waiting for some warm weather to finish it up with linseed oil / mineral spirits.

send some heat to NJ!

east tx skier

03-22-2011, 04:36 PM

This is an interesting write up considering how many people are mixing their own teak oil this year. The fact is that using linseed oil or tung oil cut with mineral spirits is not terribly dissimilar to what you can buy already mixed up. It may be cheaper for the bulk you are buying, but the primary difference appears to be some some UV protectants and mildew retardants in the commercially produced "teak oils." This seems like it will be beneficial over the long haul depending on how much exposure your platform has. It also explains the mineral spirits component in the Teak World method, but only suggests that it be used for the first coat. Anyhow, for what it's worth ....

Link (http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/29.htm)

Oiling teak on boats is a time-honored tradition. Oil intensifies the colors and grain patterns of wood and gives the wood a rich, warm appearance. Because it simply enhances the inherent beauty of the wood---more like salt than sauce---oiling is arguably the most attractive of all wood finishes, and it restores some of the teak's natural oils and resins. Unfortunately, the benefit of oiling exterior teak is extremely transitory. The sorry truth is that teak will last just as long if you don't oil it-longer really, since repeated between---coat scrubbing wears the wood away. But oiling teak isn't about protecting the wood; it's about recovering and maintaining that golden glow that made us want teak on the boat in the first place.

Teak oils are primarily either linseed oil or tung oil, bolstered by resins to make them more durable. Linseed oil tends to darken the teak, but it is significantly cheaper. Tung oil doesn't darken the wood, and it is more water resistant than linseed oil-a notable advantage for boat use. However, a month or two after application, it may be hard to discern that much difference since both oils carbonize in the sun and turn dark. Proprietary teak oils address this problem with various additives, including pigments, UV filters, and mildew retardants. Some that perform admirably in one climate are reviled in another. If you are going to oil your teak, make your teak oil selection based on the recommendations of other boat owners in your area.

Apply teak oil with a paint brush. Immediately wipe up (with a spirits-dampened cloth) any drips or runs on fiberglass or painted surfaces, or the resins the oil contains will leave dark, nearly-impossible-to-remove stains. Watch out for sneaky runs below the rail.

Oiling requires multiple coats. The wood will initially "drink" the oil, and thinning the first coat about 20% with mineral spirits or turpentine encourages it to penetrate the wood more deeply. By the third coat, oil will begin to stand in some areas. Wipe up excess oil with a cloth. Continue to brush on the oil and wipe away any excess until the wood is saturated. The wood should have a matte finish without any shiny spots.

east tx skier

03-22-2011, 04:52 PM

I just posted this in another thread, but it bears repeating

This is an interesting write up considering how many people are mixing their own teak oil this year. The fact is that using linseed oil or tung oil cut with mineral spirits is not terribly dissimilar to what you can buy already mixed up. It may be cheaper for the bulk you are buying, but the primary difference appears to be some some UV protectants and mildew retardants in the commercially produced "teak oils." This seems like it will be beneficial over the long haul depending on how much exposure your platform has. It also explains the mineral spirits component in the Teak World method, but only suggests that it be used for the first coat. Anyhow, for what it's worth ....

Link (http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/29.htm)

Oiling teak on boats is a time-honored tradition. Oil intensifies the colors and grain patterns of wood and gives the wood a rich, warm appearance. Because it simply enhances the inherent beauty of the wood---more like salt than sauce---oiling is arguably the most attractive of all wood finishes, and it restores some of the teak's natural oils and resins. Unfortunately, the benefit of oiling exterior teak is extremely transitory. The sorry truth is that teak will last just as long if you don't oil it-longer really, since repeated between---coat scrubbing wears the wood away. But oiling teak isn't about protecting the wood; it's about recovering and maintaining that golden glow that made us want teak on the boat in the first place.

Teak oils are primarily either linseed oil or tung oil, bolstered by resins to make them more durable. Linseed oil tends to darken the teak, but it is significantly cheaper. Tung oil doesn't darken the wood, and it is more water resistant than linseed oil-a notable advantage for boat use. However, a month or two after application, it may be hard to discern that much difference since both oils carbonize in the sun and turn dark. Proprietary teak oils address this problem with various additives, including pigments, UV filters, and mildew retardants. Some that perform admirably in one climate are reviled in another. If you are going to oil your teak, make your teak oil selection based on the recommendations of other boat owners in your area.

Apply teak oil with a paint brush. Immediately wipe up (with a spirits-dampened cloth) any drips or runs on fiberglass or painted surfaces, or the resins the oil contains will leave dark, nearly-impossible-to-remove stains. Watch out for sneaky runs below the rail.

Oiling requires multiple coats. The wood will initially "drink" the oil, and thinning the first coat about 20% with mineral spirits or turpentine encourages it to penetrate the wood more deeply. By the third coat, oil will begin to stand in some areas. Wipe up excess oil with a cloth. Continue to brush on the oil and wipe away any excess until the wood is saturated. The wood should have a matte finish without any shiny spots.

CantRepeat

03-22-2011, 04:53 PM

Great info eastie!! Thanks.

east tx skier

03-22-2011, 04:55 PM

Great info eastie!! Thanks.

I had heard several years ago that teak oil was mostly linseed oil, but I couldn't remember the source. No matter the method or product you choose, it's good to understand it all a bit better.

Kyle

03-22-2011, 09:26 PM

Kyle is this what you used on your teak?

Any type of boiled linseed oil will work.

CardenFam

03-22-2011, 11:23 PM

Since we are on the topic of teak restoration I have a question myself. I have an 06 X2 that I am working on and I guess the PO had an issue with the platform. When I went to remove it this winter to store in my garage I had to unscrew the platform from the brackets because it was mounted to close to the boat and would hit the boat when I would lift up on it, making it unable to be removed as intended. My question is how much gap is there between the platform and the back of the boat?

And it does have the transom saver, I'm not sure if they all do or not.

east tx skier

03-23-2011, 12:47 AM

Since we are on the topic of teak restoration I have a question myself. I have an 06 X2 that I am working on and I guess the PO had an issue with the platform. When I went to remove it this winter to store in my garage I had to unscrew the platform from the brackets because it was mounted to close to the boat and would hit the boat when I would lift up on it, making it unable to be removed as intended. My question is how much gap is there between the platform and the back of the boat?

And it does have the transom saver, I'm not sure if they all do or not.

I used Starbrite Tropical Teak Sealer to refinish my teak. I had done so because I had found an older thread that recommended Sealer. I'm happy with the results but have only gone through half a season so I'm not sure how it will be for the long run.

Everybody seems to being going with teak oil not teak sealer. I'd be curious to hear what others say about this choice? I've only done it this one way so I can't say whether you'd be better off with the sealer or oil.

aquaman

03-29-2011, 09:10 AM

I used Starbrite Tropical Teak Sealer to refinish my teak. I had done so because I had found an older thread that recommended Sealer. I'm happy with the results but have only gone through half a season so I'm not sure how it will be for the long run.

Everybody seems to being going with teak oil not teak sealer. I'd be curious to hear what others say about this choice? I've only done it this one way so I can't say whether you'd be better off with the sealer or oil.

I have heard that the sealer does not allow the teak to breath and dry. Mold can then form on the damp teak....but under the sealer. Not pretty.

For ski platforms, teak does not need to be sealed.

aaron.

03-29-2011, 10:05 AM

i can't seem to find TMC#1's method. My buddy just bought a nice set of teak deck furniture, and I reckon i could use this method to bring it back to life. any help?

CantRepeat

03-29-2011, 10:19 AM

i can't seem to find TMC#1's method. My buddy just bought a nice set of teak deck furniture, and I reckon i could use this method to bring it back to life. any help?

Honestly, I don't think it would be the way to go with furniture but that's just me. It's just too slick and slippery.

frosty

03-29-2011, 11:00 AM

I searched, and couldn't find it either, so I uploaded it here...

kskonn

03-29-2011, 01:15 PM

I did East tx skier method on mine last sunday. it worked well, I am going to apply the second coat some time this week. Only took about 40 minutes.

east tx skier

03-29-2011, 04:01 PM

Glad it worked out for you!

Thrall

03-29-2011, 05:10 PM

Since we are on the topic of teak restoration I have a question myself. I have an 06 X2 that I am working on and I guess the PO had an issue with the platform. When I went to remove it this winter to store in my garage I had to unscrew the platform from the brackets because it was mounted to close to the boat and would hit the boat when I would lift up on it, making it unable to be removed as intended. My question is how much gap is there between the platform and the back of the boat?

And it does have the transom saver, I'm not sure if they all do or not.

Both my 96 and my X2 have about 1/2" gap, maybe more, from the transom to the platform. Enough room to get your fingers in there when lifting off the platform.

Duane D

03-29-2011, 05:49 PM

Carden, I have about 1/2" gap as well and mine lifted off easy as pie this weekend for cleaning and oiling. Here are some pics before and after of my platform.

east tx skier

03-29-2011, 05:58 PM

Checked the gap on my father in law's 98 205 this weekend. Less than 0.25".

CardenFam

03-29-2011, 06:33 PM

Thanks guys, I just put my brackets on and gapped it just enough to lift the platform off.

aaron.

03-29-2011, 06:35 PM

I searched, and couldn't find it either, so I uploaded it here...

cool thanks dude, appreciate the support

kskonn

03-30-2011, 01:27 AM

My X30 is right at .25"

gatorguy

03-30-2011, 10:14 AM

Well my teak is still in pieces on my shop bench. I think it is the OCD in me, but there are so many little corners where the pieces come together that I had to sand, and the voids between all the slats it was driving me crazy so I had to pull it all the way apart to about 75 pieces. I also can now use a blet sander to do all the sanding which I just finished last night. I was really trying to avoid taking it all apart when I first started, but now I'm glad I did. I will never do it again though. Today I hope to get it all glued up and screwed back together, and plan to give it the first coat of teak oil tomorrow.

I've been out a few times without the platform this season and it is a total pain to put boards and skis on without it. All I can say is it better look awesome after all the time I've spent on it. I actually first pulled it off the boat back in December, but the first few months was spent hand sanding in 20 minute intervals every few days. I HATE SANDING!!!

Barefooter92

04-04-2011, 10:27 PM

Check this out!

I finished the teak late last night.

First picture is three coats of star brite last year in June.
65494
This winter I started with about 5 hours of sanding using 120 grit palm sander, bastard file, and sanding pads. The 3M sanding pads work great in the slots. Takes about one sanding pad per set of slots. I used three total. The purple pro grade work best.
65495
Used the bastard file to get the ends of the small pieces.
65496
One hour later one coat of Watco (Lowes) teak sealer product.
65497
One and done...Awesome!:cool:
65498

Barefooter92

04-04-2011, 10:35 PM

Incase you missed it in my other post...

Needless to say I am pretty proud of myself:D

Teak from PO last spring, serious neglect (13 years old)
65501

Teak this weekend after sanding with 120 grit
65499

Finshed with one coat of Watco Teak Oil! Not too bad for 14 years!:dance:
65500

gatorguy

04-04-2011, 11:24 PM

Check this out!

I finished the teak late last night.

Looks really good! I can't wait till mine is done. I finally got mine back together tonight. I'm going to let the glue dry for the next 24hours then tomorrow I plan to oil it. This has been one of the most painful projects I've ever undertaken. Have I mentioned how much I hate sanding?

1st picture is of the bottom side after taking it apart. 2nd and third are after putting it back together tonight.

hadzinak

04-05-2011, 03:56 AM

Teak in the beggining of the season...

Havent dyed the brackets yet...

Barefooter92

04-05-2011, 08:24 AM

Teak in the beggining of the season...

Havent dyed the brackets yet...

What do you mean by 'dyed' the brackets?

Got to do mine next; I was just going to paint them with a spray bomb.

By the way your teak looks beautiful!

Barefooter92

04-05-2011, 08:39 AM

Looks really good! I can't wait till mine is done. I finally got mine back together tonight. I'm going to let the glue dry for the next 24hours then tomorrow I plan to oil it. This has been one of the most painful projects I've ever undertaken. Have I mentioned how much I hate sanding?

1st picture is of the bottom side after taking it apart. 2nd and third are after putting it back together tonight.

WOW! What a great before and after! Nice work. What did you use for glue? What finish oil are you going to use. It may have been painful but you did a great job so far, you will be proud this summer knowing how much labor you put into your teak. Heck it is winter still what else is there to do?:cool:

thats with one coat. i put another one on this morning, so its all set.

gatorguy

04-05-2011, 10:37 AM

WOW! What a great before and after! Nice work. What did you use for glue? What finish oil are you going to use. It may have been painful but you did a great job so far, you will be proud this summer knowing how much labor you put into your teak. Heck it is winter still what else is there to do?:cool:

I used tight bond 3. It is supposed to be waterproof, although it is not really designed for constant submersion. My boat lives on a trailer and the deck is only under water when we are stopped, so it should be good I hope. Regardless I'm not doing it again for as long as I live. I know the glue gives some strength to the platform overall, but the main reason I used it was because the slats are flexed and on constant tension and I didn't want that stress on the screws alone for the next 20 yrs. Also when I took apart the deck hardly any of the 13yr old glue was actually holding anything but sand and dirt.

I was really worried about getting it all back together once I had it apart, but it actually went back together quite easily. As far as what oil I'm using, the stuff the guy sold me at the MC dealer. I'm not sure what it is, but I'll post it along with a final picture when I'm all done.

hadzinak

04-05-2011, 11:14 AM

I havent painted the brackets black ( I am not sure about the term brackets... the metal things that connect the platform to the hull ). I 'm thinking about replacing them with inox ( stainless steel ) brackets

Tuna Cowboy

04-05-2011, 11:42 AM

HAs anyone ever used Circa 1850 tung and teek oil on their swim platform? I am starting to re-do my this week and this is what the hardware brought in for me. Would hate to do all that work and apply a really bad teak oil......Thanks!

east tx skier

04-05-2011, 11:46 AM

Most commercially produced teak oils are either a combination of linseed oil and mineral spirits or tung oil and mineral spirits. The commercially produced teak oils also tend to have some components in them to offer UV and mildew resistance. What you have is likely a tung oil based "teak oil." You might consider doing the bottom of the platform first. If you like the results, continue on with the top. If not, try something else on the top. Nobody sees the bottom anyway and I'm sure whatever you have will offer ample protection.

east tx skier

04-05-2011, 11:47 AM

That paint won't last long if you do repaint.

Barefooter92

04-05-2011, 01:39 PM

That paint won't last long if you do repaint.

Keep talking TEX. That is my project for tonight. What do you know, what have you done? I was going to rough them up with a scotch brite pad and paint with rustoleum. Hadzinak is talking about stainless? Where did you find those?

FWIW: I just found the #12 oval head ss screws at Lowes 5 for 2 bucks.

Barefooter92

04-05-2011, 01:40 PM

That paint won't last long if you do repaint.

Also I notice in a previous thread that you changed the insulation in your motor box. What tape did you use for the seams?

CantRepeat

04-05-2011, 01:46 PM

That paint won't last long if you do repaint.

Powercoat?

Barefooter92

04-05-2011, 01:55 PM

Powercoat?

Thought about that too, however, I am worried about the thickness of the powdercoat material and the bracket receiver on the boat. I know previously I have taken metal off around bolt holes and such to allow for the extra thickness but have real concers about shaving metal off of these brackets to allow for the powdercoat.

Any thoughts, has anyone powdercoated there platform brackets?

east tx skier

04-05-2011, 04:29 PM

Also I notice in a previous thread that you changed the insulation in your motor box. What tape did you use for the seams?

Foil tape from Lowes.

As for what I know about the paint, I have seen brackets scuffed and repainted. I don't know if powdercoating is a better way to go. I just know that the paint jobs I have seen have not lasted more than a couple of outings.

mark g

04-05-2011, 04:42 PM

not sure if you guys have hammerite in the states, i did my brackets 2yrs ago with hammerite spray, smooth black, still looking good.

hadzinak

04-05-2011, 05:28 PM

stainless steel brackets will be custom made, take off the old ones and use them to make exact copies out of stainless steel

Barefooter92

04-05-2011, 06:06 PM

stainless steel brackets will be custom made, take off the old ones and use them to make exact copies out of stainless steel

I'll take a pair! O-wait how much?

CantRepeat

04-05-2011, 06:23 PM

Thought about that too, however, I am worried about the thickness of the powdercoat material and the bracket receiver on the boat. I know previously I have taken metal off around bolt holes and such to allow for the extra thickness but have real concers about shaving metal off of these brackets to allow for the powdercoat.

Any thoughts, has anyone powdercoated there platform brackets?

You know I'm not sure. Mine are very sloppy when mounted. I can move the platform up a good inch or more. Because of that I order the drop down brackets from Eric at OJ Props. I install those sometime next week.

If you've not seen them they are pretty sweet.

gatorguy

04-05-2011, 11:48 PM

Looks good after 1st coat of Star brite oil, if I do say so myself!:D:D

Grantx15

04-06-2011, 09:20 AM

PROBLEM!
ahh, well the first coat went on beautiful as shown above.
it dryed nicely and the entire deck was smooth and felt like teak should feel.
i put the second coat on. (i waited an entire weekend before putting the second coat on)
and the second coat is not drying right. its not getting taken into the wood evenly in all spots. some sections are drying normal but i now have spotty sections that are just staying glazed and sticky.... like they dryed but didint absorb into the wood... total bummer... i should have left it with just one coat

i fear im going to have to sand it off and restart.
tips???????

loeweb

04-06-2011, 10:14 AM

Put it in the sun for a couple of days and see if the heat won't help the wood absorb the rest, or help finish drying the oil that didn't fully absorb. If nothing else, when it's completely dry the deck shouldn't feel tacky.

east tx skier

04-06-2011, 11:58 AM

After oiling it, you want to wipe off the excess after about 10 minutes. Adding mineral spirits will help it absorb as well.

Grantx15

04-06-2011, 02:05 PM

i used the linseed oil/mineral spirits mix to finish it. not teak oil.
but i will try brushing on some mineral spirits to see if that will react it help the wood absorb it.
Thanks

Barefooter92

04-06-2011, 02:09 PM

Hit it with some steel wool to take the sheen off. Then recoat with a light layer then wipe off to fill in the low spots. Sounds like your first coat did the trick and nothing else will be asorbed.

remiller

04-06-2011, 04:16 PM

I will post pics , but I stopped to see the owner & he is willing to sell... It's the rootbeer color "85" model & he says it runs good..

Grantx15

04-06-2011, 09:05 PM

Barefooter92,
i tried the steel wool, problem was the spotty layers that never got taken in by the wood became. sticky/tacky the steel wool just stuck to it and ripped apart andmade a bigger mess...
tried light sanding... but then the deck was not uniform any more....
Sooooooooo! i got out my good old sander aaaagain and stripped it all
i shall start all over from step one in the morning.
this time i will make sure to watch for puddling where the teak is no longer taking it in.

(2nd times a charm!) knock on teak

Barefooter92

04-06-2011, 11:47 PM

Barefooter92,
i tried the steel wool, problem was the spotty layers that never got taken in by the wood became. sticky/tacky the steel wool just stuck to it and ripped apart andmade a bigger mess...
tried light sanding... but then the deck was not uniform any more....
Sooooooooo! i got out my good old sander aaaagain and stripped it all
i shall start all over from step one in the morning.
this time i will make sure to watch for puddling where the teak is no longer taking it in.

(2nd times a charm!) knock on teak

UGH! Sorry, that sucks. Just think when you crusing the MC by all the ladies this summer and your wood looks as good as it does it really wont matter!:D

Grantx15

04-07-2011, 08:46 AM

Hahaha Thanks for the Motivation, and i look forward to the ladies admiring my wood!

Thrall

04-07-2011, 12:06 PM

It wouldn't hurt to hit it lightly with a sander again, like 220 grit to get it to take more oil, but not necessary.
If you're not into sanding it, just let it sit in the sun for a few days, it'll soak in. Any excess will be not noticeable and gone quickly once you hit the water anyway. Always leaves a nice little oil slick behind the boat for the first few hrs on the lake.

east tx skier

04-07-2011, 12:33 PM

Barefooter92,
i tried the steel wool, problem was the spotty layers that never got taken in by the wood became. sticky/tacky the steel wool just stuck to it and ripped apart andmade a bigger mess...
tried light sanding... but then the deck was not uniform any more....
Sooooooooo! i got out my good old sander aaaagain and stripped it all
i shall start all over from step one in the morning.
this time i will make sure to watch for puddling where the teak is no longer taking it in.

(2nd times a charm!) knock on teak

I have never tried the home-brewed mixture before. The stuff I use has always dried evenly and has not had any issues with the steel wool once dry. Sorry it didn't turn out well for you.

apexer

04-08-2011, 12:17 AM

this is only and best thing to use,been doing it for over 15 years
-make sure its dry
-sand with 400 -600 grit
-hand sand,go with the grain
-sanding will take 10-12 hrs,maybe more
-vacuum clean
-do not let it puddle
-apply first layer
-let dry 24-36 hrs
-apply sencond layer
-let dry 36-48 hrs
-apply 3 layer
-let dry 48-60 hrs
once your done,it will look great,gives it a deep , rich look
Star brite Premium Teak Oil

Go for it. I found a gallon of Daly's Seafin teak oil in a basement from the 60's... Worked Great.
Remember its just a swim platform, not furniture
Scotchbrite then teak oil. Repeat as needed

Grantx15

04-08-2011, 08:21 AM

Yesterday i finished sanding off the first attempt which turned out gummy and nasty. i put a new coat on last night and after about 20 min i took a rag and whiped it down to take off what wasnt soaking in. it came out pretty good. ill post a picture when i get a chance.

** check this idea out**
before throwing the oil on last night a friend of mine said "you should get a brand made up that says mastercraft heat it up and then burn it into the center board of the deck. then stain over it." basicly engraving the teak.
i thought it was a kinda cool idea. VERY RISKY though if you mess up, really only get one shot at it. has any one ever attempted this or thought about doing it?

Barefooter92

04-08-2011, 08:44 AM

Yesterday i finished sanding off the first attempt which turned out gummy and nasty. i put a new coat on last night and after about 20 min i took a rag and whiped it down to take off what wasnt soaking in. it came out pretty good. ill post a picture when i get a chance.

** check this idea out**
before throwing the oil on last night a friend of mine said "you should get a brand made up that says mastercraft heat it up and then burn it into the center board of the deck. then stain over it." basicly engraving the teak.
i thought it was a kinda cool idea. VERY RISKY though if you mess up, really only get one shot at it. has any one ever attempted this or thought about doing it?

Sweet Idea! You do it first!:D

Grantx15

04-08-2011, 09:14 AM

haha maybe next year, i had a hard enough time just re finishing the teak. at this point with my luck ill try and brand it and all the oil/stain will go up in flames haha

east tx skier

04-08-2011, 11:17 AM

Call Bob Maher at Maherajah Water Skis. He puts a brand on the skis and it looks nice. See if he has any tips for you. Sounds like something that would be too easy to permanently screw up to me. Teak is expensive.

Grantx15

04-08-2011, 01:48 PM

yeah thats what i would worry about. i dont think i am going to do it i just thought it COULD turn out good. but yes i would not want to replace teak.

Another before pic.....this had some sanding on it.....in between every board was really black before...it took 7 hours alone to sand that little part...I found an electric angle sander that got in there good...still took 7 hours tho...all worth it in the end!!

Tuna Cowboy

04-08-2011, 02:36 PM

Some happy with the finished product boys!! Thanks for any advice!!!

Tuna Cowboy

04-08-2011, 02:53 PM

Boat is still in storage!! Can't wait to see this on it!!!

Tuna Cowboy

04-08-2011, 03:04 PM

Sorry..I made a mess here with a bunch of replys...can't figure out how to delete them either...haha.....

east tx skier

04-08-2011, 03:24 PM

yeah thats what i would worry about. i dont think i am going to do it i just thought it COULD turn out good. but yes i would not want to replace teak.

3rd and I think final coat. Does anyone think there is any utility in more than 3 coats?

Thrall

04-08-2011, 03:54 PM

3rd and I think final coat. Does anyone think there is any utility in more than 3 coats?

I dunno, I usually run out of ambition after 2-3 coats!
In my experience with the 50hrs a year I put on my 190, 2-3 coats with some light sanding up front and it seemed like I touch it up with a quick coat another couple times throughout the summer to keep it looking nice.

oh nice! yeah that could come out looking really good on the teak deck. something to look into.

jay

04-15-2011, 11:02 AM

Starbrite makes a 3 step kit that works well. Cleaner, brightener and then teak oil. DO NOT try and waterproof the wood with a verethane. Teak oil is what it was made for.

I started to use the starbrite kit to strip the swim platform on my 93S&S but the OE stain was still pretty thick. The only issue there was that it was...well stained dark and not teak which shows every little ding. So it was looking pretty scratched and scared.

I resulted to timestakingly (an hour here and there on and off for a month) sanding the finish off with 120 grit on an 8krpm finishing sander and re-oiled it using the Starbrite oil (step-3).

I did not however take the finish out of every nook and cranny. I was kindof going for a striped tigerwood look. I am happy with the result indeed, though I am sure some with disagree with me, but it is getting positive reviews from the fam. ;)

I got the SB kit from either Skidim or Overtons (get the larger size) for about ~$30-40 if I recall correctly.

Kyle

04-16-2011, 11:20 AM

I have a wild hair today. I will completely dissassemble my whole boat cleaning it so that I could eat out of the bildge. Then reassemble boat. Finally I will OCD over my teak platform so that when I come to csm I can woop everyones butt on how clean my boat is. By the way no shoes, tanning lotion, pets, coolers, food or drink, or any people allowed in the boat. I will bring a pop up portable garage so that it can stay covered 24-7 and no I will not put the boat in the lake. I bought this boat you see to win best in show every year. Please remember when you see my boat "Please Don't Touch" and no kids allowed anywhere near it. It is a fragile piece of Mastercraft art that actually will be pulled inside an 18 wheeler box trailer so it will stay out of the wind. I can't wait for my 2011 best in show award. This will be my 18th straight award in a row. By the way I have sanded and oiled my platform all winter long and have about 5 straight months of molesting my teak platform. Can't wait to see you guys there......

Sincerely

Guess who

JohnE

04-16-2011, 11:38 AM

I have a wild hair today. I will completely dissassemble my whole boat cleaning it so that I could eat out of the bildge. Then reassemble boat. Finally I will OCD over my teak platform so that when I come to csm I can woop everyones butt on how clean my boat is. By the way no shoes, tanning lotion, pets, coolers, food or drink, or any people allowed in the boat. I will bring a pop up portable garage so that it can stay covered 24-7 and no I will not put the boat in the lake. I bought this boat you see to win best in show every year. Please remember when you see my boat "Please Don't Touch" and no kids allowed anywhere near it. It is a fragile piece of Mastercraft art that actually will be pulled inside an 18 wheeler box trailer so it will stay out of the wind. I can't wait for my 2011 best in show award. This will be my 18th straight award in a row. By the way I have sanded and oiled my platform all winter long and have about 5 straight months of molesting my teak platform. Can't wait to see you guys there......

Sincerely

Guess who

Ha, I needed a good laugh this morning.:D

03geetee

04-18-2011, 09:10 PM

Got the last piece of the puzzle almost done to wrap up the 83's restoration...

Here is the teak I started with, you can see that ugly black thing inside the boat that looks like swamp thing.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/o3geetee/001-1.jpg

Here it is now after already doing some work last year, but this time I went all out and have been sanding/pressurewashing/drying for about a week now. Note it is loaded in dust but you can see the grain really came back...

After a very deep drying in the sun for a few days I will start oiling it and then it will be the icing on the cake for the finished boat.

JTR

CardenFam

04-25-2011, 12:41 AM

Just thought I would show mine off!

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd395/gmunee23/100_1026.jpg

Kyle

04-27-2011, 10:58 AM

Dear Team Talker's,
Only 10 more days before I win my 22nd master teak wood best in show award... Please remember the "Do Not Touch" and the "No Shoes" (for the red carpet the boat and trailer will sit on under my big red tent) signs around my boat. I dont want to have to keep cleaning it or telling you and your kids to keep grubby fingers off my stuff. If you don't abide by my rules or oil your deck like I do mine I will remove you as my friend on TT.

Yours truly,

Mr. Hero Boy 1

XChris1632X

05-03-2011, 01:38 AM

I am getting ready to start restoring mine. I have a different kind of question though before I do.

My platform seems to give a lot when stepping on it. I know I am not the smallest guy but I figured it should hold 200lbs without rubbing marks on the back of my boat. I am trying to think about ways to strengthen it. I am starting to wonder how much gel coat I will have left on the back of the boat if this thing keeps rubbing into it when stepped on. Does anyone have any tips on trying to strengthen these up?

Brian B

05-03-2011, 02:10 AM

Great looking platforms!

Is there a good Teak wood care guide floating around?

jay

05-04-2011, 11:20 PM

I am getting ready to start restoring mine. I have a different kind of question though before I do.

My platform seems to give a lot when stepping on it. I know I am not the smallest guy but I figured it should hold 200lbs without rubbing marks on the back of my boat. I am trying to think about ways to strengthen it. I am starting to wonder how much gel coat I will have left on the back of the boat if this thing keeps rubbing into it when stepped on. Does anyone have any tips on trying to strengthen these up?

It shouldn't be touching the boat. I know mine touches against the depth sounder feed-line, but it isn't compressing it...?

Lysaker83

05-11-2011, 03:02 AM

Just picked up my 83 S&S. She needs a new platform. I'm pretty good at wood restoration and building but I have never worked with teak. Where to buy it? And yes I will have pics of the boat up soon, just have to get a new camera, and boat was priorty 1 Thanks!

chawk610

05-11-2011, 08:34 AM

my '83 I got last June... the teak is the first thing we did. Had to sand it down, clean the woor and apply lots of oil. I wipe it down and oil it about twice a month.

Before and after

Brian B

05-11-2011, 04:58 PM

Great looking platforms!

Is there a good Teak wood care guide floating around?

And how often should it be oiled?

Thanks

chawk610

05-11-2011, 05:56 PM

I oil at least twice a month... others prolly do it everytime out. I even oiled it a couple times over the winter... but my boat only leaves the garage to go to the lake...

chawk610

05-11-2011, 05:58 PM

Just thought I would show mine off!

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd395/gmunee23/100_1026.jpg

Beautiful man!!!!!

wakecumberland

05-20-2011, 05:10 PM

I can't wait to get back into the teak beautification business! I plan to use the Tommy Nation method this time instead of the harold way I used to do. Although, I never had anyone bust their butt on mine. I also skipped on the pledge :) Only 10 days until I go pick it up.

TinaSkiGirl

05-22-2011, 09:48 AM

Nothin like a thread full of hard wood!!!

trickskier

05-22-2011, 01:02 PM

Nothin like a thread full of hard wood!!!

WOW - Nuff said!!!

robin

05-22-2011, 08:35 PM

just put mine in the water today...heres my teak.

Skipper

05-22-2011, 10:01 PM

Nothin like a thread full of hard wood!!!

wow........................................

10ptmust

05-22-2011, 10:18 PM

Just pulled my teak for some much needed rehab:https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/225579_2071608998191_1483863940_2431498_8126913_n. jpg

DJ 50

05-23-2011, 07:53 AM

Using Harolds method, how long do you let it dry between coats before sanding?

CantRepeat

05-23-2011, 08:37 AM

Using Harolds method, how long do you let it dry between coats before sanding?

You have to let it completely dry. You can just leave it in the sun.

I would caution against using this method as it makes the platform very slippery and unsafe.

XChris1632X

05-24-2011, 04:09 AM

It shouldn't be touching the boat. I know mine touches against the depth sounder feed-line, but it isn't compressing it...?

You can see here what I am talking about. Whenever someone stands on the platform, it will flex just enough that it rubs.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Riley/IMAG0166.jpg

And here you can see where it rubs against the boat.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Riley/IMAG0164.jpg

Kyle

05-25-2011, 10:48 AM

2 options to fix it.

1 remove platform and sand the side that will face the boat. Make sure that you keep the same arch as the boat.

2 leaving the platform attached to the boat. Remove all of the screws holding the platform on. Move the platform out 1/2 to 1 inch. Pre drill new holes. Screw the platform back on. Remember do not remove the brackets from the boat.

The platform has play in it so when you stand on it, it will flex. Also when a wake hits the back of the boat it should flex snd not just snap off. The problem lies on the person at the dealer who installed it too close to the back of the boat.

I'm sure you can wet sand the back of the boat where the scratches are and buff all of that out.

Good luck

XChris1632X

05-26-2011, 01:46 AM

Yeah, I thought about sanding it down some. Maybe I will sand the edge down and move it out a bit. Are there any negatives to unscrewing it and moving the brackets back on the teak more?

_fng_

06-20-2011, 11:25 PM

I'm in the process of sanding down my teak swim platform and was wondering how much do you need to remove? I've been using 80 grit sandpaper for a few hours and there are still small areas of shine (residual oil) and some darkness at the edges/cracks. So do I have to suck it up and get everything off or if I leave a few areas will it not be noticeable once I put on the 80/20 mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits?

Thanks for the replys. This forum has helped me out a bunch and also opened my eyes to all the things that I need to work on. It reminds me of a picture at my grandma's place "The definition of a boat: a hole in the water surrounded by wood into which one pours money".

jay

05-01-2012, 09:03 PM

I used 80 then 150 and it was fine.

I'm in the process of sanding down my teak swim platform and was wondering how much do you need to remove? I've been using 80 grit sandpaper for a few hours and there are still small areas of shine (residual oil) and some darkness at the edges/cracks. So do I have to suck it up and get everything off or if I leave a few areas will it not be noticeable once I put on the 80/20 mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits?

Thanks for the replys. This forum has helped me out a bunch and also opened my eyes to all the things that I need to work on. It reminds me of a picture at my grandma's place "The definition of a boat: a hole in the water surrounded by wood into which one pours money".

soacj

06-22-2012, 08:21 PM

The platform on my old Prostar and the SN I grew up with were always treated to an occasional sanding/oiling and looked good. The platform on my current X2 however, is in dire need of attention.

Almost embarrased to post this, but here's a pic:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k278/soacj/IMAG1514.jpg

I've been hesitant to proceed because it appears as if it's been sealed as opposed to just oiled. You can see the darker areas which appear finished vs. the lighter unsealed areas.

Any specific recommendations on how to proceed given the splotchy finished surface? I'm not looking to make this into a piece of furniture a la TMCN01, but would like to protect it and make it look presentable. Guess I'm looking for a quick and dirty set of cliff notes to get this thing in shape for the rest of the summer with the assumption I'll do more later??

Thanks!

snork

06-22-2012, 11:17 PM

Just needs a light sanding and couple coats of Teak oil and you're good for the season

h2oskifreak

01-08-2013, 01:24 PM

I sanded (dry) my platform with 150, then 220 grit and applied Starbright Gold to my platform over the weekend. It looks great and is drying in my garage and the temp. is maybe 45-60 degrees in the garage. Do I need a heat lamp to get the oil to soak in, or just time? I think in a few weeks I will wet sand w/ 400 and do another coat of oil. I am not going for perfection, just a good looking platform that performs well and holds up. When people "wet sand" with soapy water, what kind of soap is recommended? any other suggestions based on where I am now, and where I'm heading? Sun is not an option as it hasn't been over freezing wher I am for 21 days straight.

tdjaster

01-20-2013, 11:39 PM

Sanded my platform today (80 and 120 grit) then oiled it with the first coat. I'll post pictures tomorrow after I put on the second coat. Probably only worked for 90 minutes today.

h2oskifreak

01-21-2013, 01:31 PM

Back from vacation and my 150 then 220 grit and oil is drying. I am going for durability and not satin. If I wet sand w/400, what moisture do I use? Some say soapy water, what kind of soap? Also, do I use a heatlamp to get the oil to penetrate before wet sanding, or both before and after?

CC2MC

01-23-2013, 10:03 AM

I have added about three coats or so to the platform and it looks much better. I think it just adds to the overall look of the boat now. It's amazing what a difference a little teak oil/mineral spirits makes.

I sanded mine and put on one cost so far. It's better but nowhere near yours. I've heard of people doing polyurethane over the oil. Any thoughts?

CC2MC

01-23-2013, 10:17 AM

I just cleaned it with soapy water and a stiff brush, sanded 100 then 150. When I added the first coat of oil and mineral spirits, I let it sit, but it soaked it up pretty quick. It barely even looked like I did anything to it. I added another coat the next day or so, and set a cup of oil on the back of the platform. I had some work being done on my bathroom and the tile guys used my garage as their place to cut all the tile and they must have bumped the boat at some point bc when I came back out there that cup with oil had tipped over. So it sat for a good week or so just soaking in on that one section. The rest went to the floor. I have a nice oiled spot on my concrete floor now. I added the last coat while sitting in the sun. I may still have to add another if it soaks in some more though. I will see when I get back home in a couple days.

CC2MC

01-23-2013, 10:32 AM

Yeah, I thought about sanding it down some. Maybe I will sand the edge down and move it out a bit. Are there any negatives to unscrewing it and moving the brackets back on the teak more?

Were you able to do a little sanding on the platform? It looks like it is only rubbing on two sections. I would look at the platform in those two areas and sand back the bottom edge a little, keeping the top edge the same. In other words, the face on the transom should be sanded at a little bit of an angle. Like it was mentioned, try to keep the same arch.

The issue with moving the brackets would be that you may have to move it too much to create new holes in the platform, creating too much of a gap between the transom and platform. I would think you would need to move it about a half inch or so for the new holes.

Barefooter92

01-23-2013, 01:35 PM

CC2MC that looks great!

tdjaster

01-23-2013, 01:56 PM

What does the mineral spirits do? I hadn't heard of using that.

h2oskifreak

01-23-2013, 02:35 PM

Can somebody please tell me the type of soap for wet sanding? I assume dishwashing soap is not good as it repels oil? Ready to wet sand.

Snipe

01-23-2013, 05:03 PM

slinkyredfoot

Great!!!
Keep up the good work.

CC2MC

01-23-2013, 09:20 PM

I believe I did use dawn or whatever I had, but did not use very much. I had mildew on the bottom so the combination of the soap and stiff brush was able to get the majority of it off. What was left behind was taken care of with a little sanding.

h2oskifreak

01-24-2013, 12:12 PM

I believe I did use dawn or whatever I had, but did not use very much. I had mildew on the bottom so the combination of the soap and stiff brush was able to get the majority of it off. What was left behind was taken care of with a little sanding.

Mine is pretty clean and ready to wet sand. Do you think I need soap, or just moisture for the fine grit sanding?

CC2MC

01-24-2013, 04:08 PM

I would probably at least rinse it with some soapy water to get any unseen contaminates off. I did not wet sand mine as i don't really need it that smooth. The smoother it is, the nicer it may look but the slicker it becomes when wet. Maybe someone else has a better answer to that. I would not think that the teak would really wet sand very well, but I could be wrong. What grit are you going up to?

h2oskifreak

01-24-2013, 04:54 PM

I did 150, then 220 grit then a heavy coat of Starbright Gold. I then went on vacation for 2 weeks and in my fairly cold garage it has soaked in some. Still looks covered pretty well in most areas. I might just hit it again with another coat and see how it looks in a month or two. Hasn't been above freezing here in my Colorado town for 26 days and counting, so spring is a while away. I don't want slick either, just a good looking, useful platform as I use it to put my ski on with.

46Chief

01-25-2013, 01:45 PM

What does the mineral spirits do? I hadn't heard of using that.

Not an expert on wood refinishing, but have used mineral spirits and 00steel wool to sand for a final finish on hardwood planks to bring the grain out. the old timer told me it cleans the fine dust from the grain. Looked good to me.

Skyskiguy

01-29-2013, 02:24 AM

Hey all,
Still looking for anyone out west who might be interested in swapping their teak platform for my black fiberglass - '06 X30. Any interest or leads, let me know. Thanks.

clrussell

02-05-2013, 09:42 AM

Well I think I've messed up re oiling my platform.. It seems really dark compared to y'all's.. Maybe I havnt put enough coats on it yet..
Before (after cleaning)
89608

Wet 1st coat 89609

After drying on the 4th coat
89610

Sorry the last pic isn't in good light.. It wasn't very light out this morning yet.. Should I keep sanding and applying more or do I have something wrong?

I'm using sunny side pure raw linseed oil and mineral sprits mixed 75x25 and applying heavy coats and wiping off 30 minutes later with a few days in between coats.

Tapatalk

jhall0711

02-05-2013, 10:14 AM

Mine turned out very similar in color. I am also at 4 coats.

Snipe

02-05-2013, 10:36 AM

Here is mine after the Starbrite 3 Step Method. I think I was at 15 coats of oil and stopped.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=89613&stc=1&d=1360074971

clrussell

02-05-2013, 02:07 PM

Mine just seems very dark. I'll keep going and it'll either get Better or worse

Tapatalk

h2oskifreak

02-05-2013, 03:47 PM

I did 150 then 220 grit sanding and one very heavy coat of Starbright Gold. It looks good, drying a little more in some places than others, but it looks fair to this point. Some say "wetsand" with 400 grit before another coat. Some say clean with mineral spirits and 00 Steel Woo before next coat. I am thinking about putting another coat of Starbright with the Steel Wool as an applicator? Any thoughts on why this is a good or bad idea?

Snipe

02-05-2013, 06:16 PM

Mine just seems very dark. I'll keep going and it'll either get Better or worse
Tapatalk

I only sanded the end grains, not top or bottom. Didn't want it TOOOOO smooth as kids would slide off as happened on our Ski Nautique. Won't happen on the MC. Don't get me wrong it is not rough, just not like glass. If you keep going with more oil, chances are it will get even darker. I let mine dry for several days and before the last three applications, I only added a light coat of oil where the wood turned to a slight ashy color. Eventually it will be uniform all over.
Hope that works for you as well.

Cloaked

02-05-2013, 09:33 PM

Not saying you guys are doing anything incorrect, but I have had best results with linseed oil and mineral spirits (combined). Teak oil and other mentioned products have given me darker results over the years. This last time around in 2012, I used the linseed oil mixture and I'll not go back to teak oil or other.

Took me two coats and my board looks primo....

Your boards look fine and the teak and Starbright will weak down in a few months of lake use, so consider the aforementioned concoction.

If you're not 100% satisfied, I'd consider stopping where you are and use the board until it needs another treatment, then try the linseed oil/mineral spirits. Several folks here have the same or similar testimony of which I speak.

I'm not sure what sanding gets you but it's not my board to say. Most of these slicky-boy finishes are for show and IMHO, not practical for use, but that's me. I like functionality. I pressure wash my board once a year, no sanding.

$0.02

.

Snipe

02-05-2013, 10:24 PM

Not saying you guys are doing anything incorrect, but I have had best results with linseed oil and mineral spirits (combined). Teak oil and other mentioned products have given me darker results over the years. This last time around in 2012, I used the linseed oil mixture and I'll not go back to teak oil or other.

Took me two coats and my board looks primo....

Your boards look fine and the teak and Starbright will weak down in a few months of lake use, so consider the aforementioned concoction.

If you're not 100% satisfied, I'd consider stopping where you are and use the board until it needs another treatment, then try the linseed oil/mineral spirits. Several folks here have the same or similar testimony of which I speak.

I'm not sure what sanding gets you but it's not my board to say. Most of these slicky-boy finishes are for show and IMHO, not practical for use, but that's me. I like functionality. I pressure wash my board once a year, no sanding.

$0.02

.
I'm always open to ideas especially when it's cost effective. That's why we are here on TT.
The Starbright method is the first I tried and it worked, but it does cost about $18.00 for each of the three steps. What are the proportions of your mixture? My Nautique lasted two years without a reapplication; on a lift under a conopy. So the next time I would try the linseed oil/mineral spirits mixture and see how that works in Wisconsin.:toast::toast:

Cloaked

02-05-2013, 10:42 PM

I'm always open to ideas especially when it's cost effective. That's why we are here on TT.
The Starbright method is the first I tried and it worked, but it does cost about $18.00 for each of the three steps. What are the proportions of your mixture? My Nautique lasted two years without a reapplication; on a lift under a conopy. So the next time I would try the linseed oil/mineral spirits mixture and see how that works in Wisconsin.:toast::toast:Some say 80/20 (Linseed 80% / 20% mineral spirits). I chose 75/25 and was pleased. About a pint and one half did both sides on my board, two coats each side. Cheap brush and patience. Your mileage may vary.

Prep the board in any manner you choose. I didn't do anything to mine other than to clean.

The one trick I have read and also discovered after use is to put on a coat and let it soak for a couple of hours, tops. Wipe the excess off thoroughly and let the board set for another two days to completely dry. Repeat again after drying and apply a second coat (not saturate but apply to cover the board) and let that set for about two hours and wipe the excess thoroughly. Let dry for two days. Flip it and do the same on the other side. Seems tedious but the trick is to wipe the excess after just a couple of hours.

No guarantees but I speak from satisfactory results with this method and material, as you can see in the picture. Other threads and posts here with similar testimony.

$0.02

clrussell

02-05-2013, 10:46 PM

Maybe I put to heavy of coats on mine.. I mixed linseed oil and mineral sprits 75/25, first coat looked great wet but soaked in and the wood was about halfway back to its old look.. I'll let it set a couple weeks and decide from there

Tapatalk

Cloaked

02-05-2013, 10:50 PM

Maybe I put to heavy of coats on mine.. I mixed linseed oil and mineral sprits 75/25, first coat looked great wet but soaked in and the wood was about halfway back to its old look.. I'll let it set a couple weeks and decide from there

TapatalkYour board looks good. Be patient with it and you'll find the right combo. I'd also venture to say that different wood on different boards, and other variables provides different results.

.

clrussell

02-05-2013, 11:14 PM

Thanks, I'll try to get a better picture tomorrow of how dark it is.. Might just be me!

Tapatalk

CC2MC

02-05-2013, 11:38 PM

I did 150 then 220 grit sanding and one very heavy coat of Starbright Gold. It looks good, drying a little more in some places than others, but it looks fair to this point. Some say "wetsand" with 400 grit before another coat. Some say clean with mineral spirits and 00 Steel Woo before next coat. I am thinking about putting another coat of Starbright with the Steel Wool as an applicator? Any thoughts on why this is a good or bad idea?

From what I have read, little bits of the steel wool could break off and get into the grain of the teak, which would then rust and cause the teak to permanently stain. Some people use it and seem to have no problems though.

Snipe

02-06-2013, 07:32 AM

+1 on the steel wool. I think it would be hard not to snag some of the wool on these boards.:twocents::twocents:

ZachDaddy

02-06-2013, 08:29 PM

Brass wool is what works best without the stains

Snipe

02-06-2013, 08:33 PM

That makes sense if you want to sand. I don't like sanding; so I don't.
At the risk of sounding a little (or a lot) stupid, wouldn't that get to be be a little slippery??

monsterwake

02-06-2013, 10:41 PM

Hey all,
Still looking for anyone out west who might be interested in swapping their teak platform for my black fiberglass - '06 X30. Any interest or leads, let me know. Thanks.

If an X1 is the same I would be interested maybe but Utah is a long way from Texas.

Skyskiguy

02-07-2013, 01:09 AM

If an X1 is the same I would be interested maybe but Utah is a long way from Texas.

And I don't think the X1 and X30 use the same swim deck - but thanks!

AZDave

02-07-2013, 10:03 AM

Bad weather here has prompted me to dive into yet another platform restore. I have completed sanding, and have found yet another way to sand between the slats. The Black & Decker Mouse sander has an attachment for an extension that is perfect for this. I have used the linseed oil procedure before, and it worked well. Just to mix things up, I bought the Starbrite 3 step system. (Free shipping and no sales tax was the major motivation for this) Any caveats to doing this, or just follow the directions?

Snipe

02-07-2013, 10:12 AM

Just follow directions. Worked great for me, and lasted two summers if kept on a covered lift.

AZDave

02-10-2013, 11:21 AM

89853

89854

89855All right the Starbrite arrived, and prep work done. Check out sander, this really made sanding between the slats easy.

This platform was in dire need of some care. Thx to this forum I think it 's looking pretty good. There was a good bit of wear, along with gouges and grain separation. Started with an 80 grit belt sander, followed by 120 grit belt, and then 150 random orbit. Then two treatments with 75/25 Linseed Oil/Mineral Spirits. Brushed on, let rest for 30 mins and then wiped off. Gave another wipe about an hour later. Separated coat 1 and 2 by a week. 8986589866

tdjaster

02-10-2013, 11:37 PM

Looks great. Only two coats? Nice...

Thanks. Yes, only two coats but I did put those coats on pretty heavily. It took a couple of days sitting in the garage to fully dry.

kjohnson

02-11-2013, 03:40 PM

in light of brianM's teak thread...
lets show off your teak platform. I will start.

and after the reunion just after I got home...
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/DooSPX/DSC00067.jpg

My boat is the same year and exact same color.

Theclarks1111

02-11-2013, 05:47 PM

those all look great!

Snipe

02-11-2013, 06:03 PM

They really do. The next time I have to treat mine, I'm going to try the 75/25 Linseed Oil/Mineral Spirits route. Starbrite works good but it is costly.

AZDave

02-12-2013, 10:25 AM

Ok, here is the finished product. Starbrite 3 step for 35 bucks, but I think I have enough left over for 2 more times. Approx 10 bucks then. It turned out better than any of my previous efforts. These included linseed oil/ mineral spirits and Watco teak oil from Lowes. I think whatever method you choose, preparation is very important, and ALL of these methods are pretty good.

Snipe

02-12-2013, 10:30 AM

It looks nice and even....but the pic is pretty dark. Hard to tell. What counts is that YOU are happy with the results. I used the Starbrite too, and am very pleased with the outcome.

AZDave

02-13-2013, 09:29 AM

Picture is not good. My camera only seems to work in direct sunlight. I am 100% satisfied. After buying the sandpaper and the Starbrite I am in to this about $45 , but have enough for 3 restorations. Pretty good deal. I will post a pic on the boat the next time I take the boat out.

east tx skier

02-23-2013, 04:03 PM

It's that time of year in my boat care regimen. This is no show platform. It will be stepped on, jumped off, and treated like a platform should be treated. Bringing the shine back took less than 15 minutes.

Here is my first crack at re-finishing the teak, very satisfying and i will do another layer or 2
Did not take me 15 minutes but I endevour to be better next time.......

Snipe

02-26-2013, 05:56 PM

Looks great.:banana::banana: I would be proud to show that.:toast::toast:

theoldgirl1990

02-27-2013, 01:20 PM

I'm sure most of the products are of the same quality, but I've always used Watco Teak oil. Watco makes a variety of stains and varnishes for furniture. I've used their product when working and its top notch. Just my 2 cents.

mlawler34

04-08-2013, 12:08 PM

Alright, so I am in the process of redoing my teak. I am fairly certain they used some sort of varnish previously on this teak, but looks like most of it is gone and or I have sanded it off. However, I sanded with 220 and have used the StarBrite Teak Cleaner and Teak brightener, and my teak still looks very dark and stained with too many black/real dark lines. Am I over thinking this? Or...

Do i need to sand more and repeat the cleaner and brightener? Or should i move on to Oil or what? Need some thoughts and help on this! Thanks!

bjen

04-08-2013, 01:13 PM

Did you only sand with 220? I started with 80 and did not use the brightener and only used soap and water to clean. I think the 80 grit looked after most the problems.
Picture is a little small but I had the dark lines you refer to and the sanding looked after it for the most part, still had some when i oiled but it looks fine.

mlawler34

04-08-2013, 03:41 PM

Did you only sand with 220? I started with 80 and did not use the brightener and only used soap and water to clean. I think the 80 grit looked after most the problems.
Picture is a little small but I had the dark lines you refer to and the sanding looked after it for the most part, still had some when i oiled but it looks fine.

Thanks for the response. Was thinking about getting 100 or 150 grit out first and giving it a good once over then 220 and then clean it up again.