Welded threaded insert or threading the tube. What one would be better to do? Going to be for the steering on my XJ. I'm leaning more towards the inserts because I won't need to buy the taps then. Something along these lines Not a bad price either, just the tubing isn't long enogh for what I need.

I like direct tapping because you get tons more thread engagement. We used to do it by hand back in the day, it wasn't fun... but it wasn't impossible. I made a jig for the mill to do it now. Makes a much straighter tap, and that means a better jam nut engagement.

If you measure your lengths (center of hole to center of hole) I can send out rods tapped and match that CompleteOffRoad.com price with TRE's and jam nuts.

We have some other TRE parts numbers for the tie rod that we use in cross over setups get rid of the long ES2233L and they look a ton nicer + are stronger. If one is going to bend, it's going to be that ES2233L.

Let me know, I would actually like to get the numbers down so we can offer a WJ conversion steering setup on the site

I like direct tapping because you get tons more thread engagement. We used to do it by hand back in the day, it wasn't fun... but it wasn't impossible. I made a jig for the mill to do it now. Makes a much straighter tap, and that means a better jam nut engagement.

If you measure your lengths (center of hole to center of hole) I can send out rods tapped and match that CompleteOffRoad.com price with TRE's and jam nuts.

We have some other TRE parts numbers for the tie rod that we use in cross over setups get rid of the long ES2233L and they look a ton nicer + are stronger. If one is going to bend, it's going to be that ES2233L.

Let me know, I would actually like to get the numbers down so we can offer a WJ conversion steering setup on the site

Will do going to be a little bit before I get it done. Kind of off topic but do you think I'll have any problems with doing the tie rod OTK?

Will do going to be a little bit before I get it done. Kind of off topic but do you think I'll have any problems with doing the tie rod OTK?

You know back when i did mine on the YJ there was a reason i didn't go OTK for the tie rod. It was either because it would hit my springs, or because I couldn't get the reamer in from the top with the upper arm in the way.

I haven't had my hands on a WJ knuckle in a while though, so I can't be sure.

If it works ok, you will need to trim your coil buckets back to the coils, cut off your steering stabilizer mount, and relocate your sway bar mounts. I could throw a couple slight bends in the end of the tie rod for clearance, but I have never ran that before, so I don't know about it's strength.

You know back when i did mine on the YJ there was a reason i didn't go OTK for the tie rod. It was either because it would hit my springs, or because I couldn't get the reamer in from the top with the upper arm in the way.

I haven't had my hands on a WJ knuckle in a while though, so I can't be sure.

If it works ok, you will need to trim your coil buckets back to the coils, cut off your steering stabilizer mount, and relocate your sway bar mounts. I could throw a couple slight bends in the end of the tie rod for clearance, but I have never ran that before, so I don't know about it's strength.

All ready planned on moving the sway bar links, relocating the track bar to the top of the axle with a JKS mount, and cutting the buckets back.

i had my neighbore make me slugs for my DOM steering. Than i heated up the DOM and put the slugs in the freezer, bashed them in there, had holes 3 holes drilled in the DOM , filled those with weld. So i have a pressed tight fight that is spot welded

As for better thread engagement with tapping, I disagree. If the bungs are threaded properly with the proper % of thread engagement, they should be equal to threading the tube. Also, the rule of thumb for minimum thread depth for max. bolt pull out strength is 1.5x the diameter of the fastener. So, a 3/4" tie rod end would need 1 1/8" of thread engagement and I think most threaded bungs are at least 2" long.

I'm talking push/pull, no side loads....in steel. I use 2x dia. for alum at work, but thats just my guess for alum.

i had my neighbore make me slugs for my DOM steering. Than i heated up the DOM and put the slugs in the freezer, bashed them in there, had holes 3 holes drilled in the DOM , filled those with weld. So i have a pressed tight fight that is spot welded