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September 2013: Despite the fringe of dryness in the deciduous trees, Lisbon remains steadfastly in late summer, and by mid-afternoon it's positively hot in the sun, which shines off the tiles of the pracas. Dakar is hot and rainy as we travel, we're told.

But despite the beauty and the old-world charm of Lisbon, I find myself feeling pity for it: Portugal's macro-economy is a mess, and the nation is in economic free fall. The whole capital looks and feels ragged: still charming and antiquated, but those two words are only a notch away from dilapidated and decrepit. What happened here?
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