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why not take the sideline stab off and see if the gun fires with the co2 left in your tank? Is the tank aluminum or Chrom molly? I know I was always fooled into thinking I had more co2 in my chrome molly tank than my aluminum...

I know there are people out there that use co2 and leval 10 without only having 2-3 oz of usable air. I also dispute the leval 10 needing 850-900 psi to work right, I mean, my 800 psi output crossfire tank worked great on it, I still got shots off when it went below 800 psi, the gun continued to fire (even though the velocity was crap) until there was around 400 psi in the tank before it gave up...

Just my thoughts...

Hey Zero, how much did that Chipley cost ya?

Originally said by BoggermanWhen I got married I thought it would go down too... The insurance, not the wife.

I have new 68 AutoMag Classic one of the first upgrades I was going to buy was the Level Ten. But after reading the problems people have had I am now a little intimidated. Are they really that hard to put in? Or are these just rare occurences that have all just congregated here for help? Also does the Level Ten come with a detailed instruction manual or do you have to go to the site for instructions? Thanks.

Level 10 problemo

OK. My problem is I got a huge leak down the barrel. I'm trying to remove the carrier but I can't get it out. What is the easiest to get it out and is that really the problem. Thanx for the help. Oh it is also on my Minimag w/ Retrovalve.

BUY great quality gear, parts from RogueFactor, SoCal PRIDE!!feedbackRemember if it doesn't say RPG... it's not the real deal and probably voids the warranty

carrier removal

if you have 2 of them (dental picks), try to apply force on opposite sides of the carrier. you may be unevenly applying force and making your job more difficult. otherwise, if you can get a hold of a nylon bolt and force thread it into the carrier you may be able to pry it without damaging the carrier. other than that, i am pretty much out of ideas. how much force did you have to apply to get it in there to begin with? it shouldn't have needed much...

New Game - Hunt for the Lvl 10 Instructions!

Hello,

Just a thought, could ADG please post the instructions for installing the Lvl 10 somewhere that makes sense - Like Tech manuals, or faqs, or heck - maybe under the spare parts listing. I found it once, so it wasn't hidden well enough, now I can't remeber where that was and I can't find it......

instructions

you may have a point....
however, i found that going to www.automags.org (also found at the bottom of every page of these threads), and clicking on the "level 10" graphic took me to a couple of sets of instructions.
-dugger
ps google works well also.

Tankdriver
can you follow up, were you just low on air? A A.I.R. valve with level 10 shouldnt need a full 800psi to cycle, more like 600 or so. stick to cut spring and the biggest carrier that doesnt leak.(if you feel the standard spring isnt soft enough.)

Lakeview Bulldog
It's not hard, just read. Besides, if anything does happen, that's what this thread is for. Most problems are minor and quick to fix.

rtpro2002
Mags love high pressure like ppl love money

RoadDawg dugger
the certified tool for removing the carrier is the field strip screw. give it a few turns and pull.

problem persists

Finally got my co2 filled. Screwed it in, a small leak out the back, i turn down the velocity, leak disappears. I proceed to dry fire ~50 shots, then after that, the bolt would only move forward about halfway before it retracts. Is this a problem with shims(i.e not venting?) or carrier size? Currently using the middle spring with 1.5 carrier. Previous attempts with the 2.0 carrier resulted in a small leak down the barrel.

PS Turning up the velocity at this point doesn't do anything. The bolt moves halfway still and makes the Pssst noise.

Another thought- Could it be that using co2 reduces the temperature thus causing the carrier/o ring to shrink and therefore increasing the friction that the bolt needs to overcome to fire?

I'm going to assume you didnt chrono when you shot the 50 times. It sounds like you need to get your velocity up some more(till it fires reliably, to do that you may need a new reg. piston.(check the o'ring on the reg. piston just incase).

co2

my lv 10 foamy keeps blowing loose

My lv 10 foamy keeps blowing off, Ive tried super glue and it still blows off, I've noticed that the gun shoots balls without it, is it necessary? How do i keep it on?
Does anyone have a text manual on the lv 10?

I am having trouble with shooting my mag w/ lvl 10 indoors where the fps is 250 max. Sometimes the gun will shoot and sometimes it doesnt, especially while rapid fire. I have the main spring in...what could be the reason for this?

Problem

Hey fitted my level 10 fine no leak which i was expecting, however when i fire a shot it fires fine however when i fire another shot it just burps. If i fire slowly like 1 shot a second it works but as soon as i try and fire fast it burps every second shot.

Second the Mickster

Hello all,
I have finally found my place in the mag family. It's a classic RT. I just love how the trigger feels, and it's a dead sexy gun. I installed level 10 today. And now I am having two issues. The first is the one the mickster stated above, and the second is that my RT's trigger doesn't feel quite as "reactive" is this normal for LX in an RT or did I do something wrong?

bolt staying forward

ok sometimes when i put my finger in the power feed my lvl 10 will hit my finger and stay back but other times it does what it suppose to when the bolt stays forward it lets the air out this has never happened when i was playing but i am using the .5 carrier with longest spring with 4 shims i am using a mini mag with rt valve sorry if this has already been posted in the thread takes to long to read all of the post

sigh...

I've been jacking with this thing for a couple days now and i can't get it to function properly.

Classic 68
Aftermarket PMI Reg
Hyperframe
output at around 700-750

1. I used the 2 carrier with 2 shims and the small spring. Had a small leak down barrel. Would sometimes stop but would start up when I shot again. Did the dollar test and would crush my buck! I took 1 shim out and it would not even fire.

2. I used the 2.5 carrier with 1 shim and cut spring. It just wanted to leak down the barrel.

3. Switched to 2 carrier with 1 shim and cut spring. It made the fully auto reaction with out me touching the trigger.

bolt problem

When i first installed it, it worked great but acouple of days later i was in a game and my gun wouldnt fire. I found out that the bolt wasnt clicking back far enough. I had to use my barrel swap to get it to click in. what should i do?