I arrived at the Sarova Whitesands Beach Resort & Spa in early August with high expectations. I’d stayed in the Sarova Stanley in Nairobi, and I knew that this property was as highly rated as that urban venue.

Although I was well ahead of the stated check-in time of noon, the staff was gracious and accommodating. After seating me in the “arrivals area” where there are some drinks and snacks available, they handed me a cool, scented towel. They also got me the internet log-in code so that I could work on my laptop until my request was processed. Hours went by. Finally, at 1:30 p.m., I asked again if I could check in — and finally snagged a room.

It had been raining much of the morning and early afternoon, but there was a lull in the downpour as I followed the bellman pulling my suitcase past buildings closed off for active renovation. The Whitesands is a large resort — 338 rooms in five categories, and it was quite a hike to my guestroom. It was in one of the not-yet-renovated buildings, so schlepping my bag up a flight of stairs was a necessity.

My room definitely was overdue for a makeover (its dated vinyl tile floor was really grungy in the corners). The balcony overlooked the Palms Swimming Pool, but there was no one in the water because the rain had started up again. I was staying just one night, and it rained most of the time I was there. It’s hard to assess the amenities in and around the 23 acre property: the poolside bars were closed because of the rain, and no one was on the beach or in any of the five swimming pools.

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