You can buy sheets of lith film in boxes. If you are basically doing a 1:1 copy, then you can make a contact print to lith film._________________A Charity Pantomime in aid of Paranoid Schizophrenics descended into chaos yesterday when someone shouted, "He's behind you!"

I can't remember if lith was positive or negative? I'm a bit ropey on that- mainly because I never used it.

When I worked as a freelancer, I worked as a photojournalist- as studio work bored me (this is probably why I'm still broke!)

Anyway, in order to take a copy from a print in say a magazine, you cant make a contact print from that because you will get whatever is on the other side bleeding through, and if you don't have anything........okay I just thought of a way- photocopy your image onto acetate through the copier and then sandwich the image to the lith film- but that can only work if the image is at the correct size in the first place?_________________ACHTUNG!
ALLES TURISTEN UND NONTEKNISCHEN LOOKENPEEPERS!
DAS KOMPUTERMASCHINE IST NICHT FÜR DER GEFINGERPOKEN UND MITTENGRABEN! ODERWISE IST EASY TO SCHNAPPEN DER SPRINGENWERK, BLOWENFUSEN UND POPPENCORKEN MIT SPITZENSPARKSEN.
IST NICHT FÜR GEWERKEN BEI DUMMKOPFEN. DER RUBBERNECKEN SIGHTSEEREN KEEPEN DAS COTTONPICKEN HÄNDER IN DAS POCKETS MUSS.
ZO RELAXEN UND WATSCHEN DER BLINKENLICHTEN.

Well, with a scanner and a simple image editing app you have that part of it covered._________________A Charity Pantomime in aid of Paranoid Schizophrenics descended into chaos yesterday when someone shouted, "He's behind you!"

The contact print method is only for when you already have a 1:1 print or photographic image transferred to some kind of transparent film.

I don´t recommend going this route if you don´t feel comfortable with the chemicals and all that. You might still get bad results. It is important to get the exposure/development of the film pretty much 100% right. You might also want to check for white spots on a light table._________________A Charity Pantomime in aid of Paranoid Schizophrenics descended into chaos yesterday when someone shouted, "He's behind you!"

v-un-v the press n peel is very easy. Sometimes you hit some snags, but its not big a deal. couple of tips:
-Make sure you sand the edges of your board after you cut it.
-Really get the corners good with the iron
-When you peel the PnP off and some of the toner didn't stick, don't worry
just put it back down and iron some more
-if it still comes up a little just use a sharpy

it works really well I've used it on every board I've made with great results

No problem. I didn't notice the earlier pics. You should try and find a laser printer maybe ebay(fortunately I work in a print shop). The pnp traces should be black, dark black not pixelated. Next time maybe use photoshop or someting to darken them. Don't be afraid to leave the iron on there for a little.

Sorry it didn't work that well for you.

let me know if you have any ?'s

I think those links should give a nioce idea thats where I learned from.
That site has tons of great stompbox layouts_________________"your stripes are killer bro"

I never tried the UV method but I really hated the PNP method. Either the results were perfect or absolutely terrible. I did try a different method that I found online using an old XY plotter. Needless to say I'm amazed at the results. The link is: http://www.willcoxonline.com/PCBplotting/main.html and trust me, it rules. I plan on doing the wacky synth pcb in this manner. So far I've done a few various boards, here's a pic of one of them.

I use Press'n'Peel blue constantly, so I recently took to buying 100packs from the supplier in the US - that is a lot cheaper than maplin but also cheaper than the cheapest UK supplier I know (go for this place rather than Maplin anyday -- should be good for the rest of europe too) (small friendly place too..): http://www.ronlin.co.uk/ - don't think you'll find a cheaper small quantity supplier around here...

I got a laser printer for about £90 new (but the downside is that a toner cartridge costs £40 to £60 (depending on capacity) - though there's a cheaper refill now available for the particular model) - its not the best printer so I sometimes get some bad patches and a few smudges - but easy enough to tidy them up.. I always print at 600dpi and that resoluton is fine.

There's always the risk of the toner not sticking to all parts of the copper board - I've done loads of sheets of P'n'P and still its quite hit-or-miss as to whether the final result is acceptable or whether I have to start again.. Depends on the complexity of the layout.. But if its only a few areas slightly dodgy then I tidy it up with one of these pens (available from maplin or cheaper at www.rapidelectronics.co.uk

((these work sooooo much better than those cheaper cd black marker pens))

Until recently I was using ferric chloride in an old photo tank.. Messy..

But now I use something from Maplin (..so, after all my bad feelings about them, there's still some (a very little) good in store there..!..) that is cheap and great:
Maplin Etch Tank only £39.99

This is now sooo quick and somewhat less messy (still the ferric chloride does get everywhere..) - - the tank bubbles and heats so boards are ready really quickly...

I got a laser printer for about £90 new (but the downside is that a toner cartridge costs £40 to £60 (depending on capacity) - though there's a cheaper refill now available for the particular model) - its not the best printer so I sometimes get some bad patches and a few smudges - but easy enough to tidy them up.. I always print at 600dpi and that resoluton is fine.

Don't forget you can use your local self-serve copy shop. All those big copiers use toner. Just pull a sheet out of the tray and put it in the "bypass tray" put an X on a corner so you know which way to put it back in. Make sure you tape it well and its a straight shot through from bypass so hopefully no jams._________________"your stripes are killer bro"

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