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E39 (1997 - 2003) The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

To the team:
Please tell me what I missed in this attempt at a quality response?
And, why aren't there more head gasket DIYs?
Please improve the "typical scenario" below as I don't have the technical expertise to write this important paragraph!

To the OP:
We're very sorry to hear about this issue. The main problem is that the BMW cooling system is a time bomb. If not periodically overhauled (about every 6 years or 60,000 miles), the cooling system "will" leak in multiple places ... (see pictorial reference here). If you drive for even a few minutes with an overheated engine, the aluminum heads warp & crack, often causing bolts to pull out of the aluminum block E39s (some E39 blocks are, thankfully, cast iron and are less susceptible to this common problem), and other internal damage to the engine (valves, cylinder walls, piston rings, etc.). This is bad. Very bad. The cost for parts is nothing compared to the labor rates involved. Half the engine needs to be removed. If you "suspect" this problem, you really need professional advice with the engine being TESTED! Your options are to replace the parts (expensive), replace the engine (expensive), or buy a new vehicle (expensive). Plus the car will be out of service a minimum of a couple of weeks realistically. Did I mention you really must get professional advice from someone who has the engine to test in front of them? Good luck. And, please keep us informed as to your progress, if for no other reason, so that we may advise the next person who follows in your footsteps.

The problem is this is like asking a forum "I think I'm having a heart attack ... what should I do?". You may be in serious trouble; so you need professional help. Up 'till now, this was my standard response (1).

If the OP is a newbie, which often is the case, then these links below should help with pricing:
- BMW phantom diagrams (1) & nominal prices by part number (1) labor rates by zip code (1) (2) (3) where to find a good mechanic (1) (2) & finding a specialty BMW indy in your area (1)

Also, see this summary:
- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an engine for blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & a well researched reusable response to a particular user with a blown engine (1) & what questions to ask when severe heating-related damage is initially suspected (1) & what E39 engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & why the E39 engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & real-world results from people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25).

With your model engine you may be in luck. The short block is made of cast Iron for your model--the heads of
course are Aluminum. If you can DIY this may be the way to go, remove the head--have it checked for warpage--have a complete valve job worked and then do the install--replace the Vanos seals while your at it also.
Now thats the way I would do it--if you purchase a used engine--may be better off--but who's to say--

I got 1999 Bmw, 528I and the car was overheat because the hose burst and water was in the oil pan. The engine was not able to start and it need a rebuilt or buy a used engine. It sound that you have the same problem. What are you going to do? I think that you need to rebuilt the it because buying a used engine it may not be good because the new used engine properly has some mileages in it now so it is better do with the original engine. Second expect to have a lot of problem and time needed to do it right. Also, it is good to replace the vanos seal while the part is out. There are many parts that need to pay attention when you drive this car of car. I did replace some O-ring that run alone the water hose. If you need help when you decide to rebuilt. Good luck.

With your model engine you may be in luck. The short block is made of cast Iron for your model--the heads of
course are Aluminum. If you can DIY this may be the way to go, remove the head--have it checked for warpage--have a complete valve job worked and then do the install--replace the Vanos seals while your at it also.
Now thats the way I would do it--if you purchase a used engine--may be better off--but who's to say--

It is excellent. I did the Vanos seal replacement and the engine does make different with the engine sound especially when you first start the to go.

Need help, new guy.
I think my head gasket is about gone, what's easy, should replace HG or get a used engine with low miles. I have a 97 E39 184k?????

First, I want to know if you have a aluminim block or Cast iron block. Your car should have a Cast Iron Block. If It is then It good for you because you don't have to worry about the tread in the block.

Second, The head should cost you about $380 to complete head job.

Third, The parts that you need for the job is about $ 350 and if you want to replace the vanos seal then $ 60 more.

four, $ 50 more to water, oil, new sparkplus, and hose or O rings if need.

five, you need to have a extra car for two weeks.

My car is run very good after I did it, and no leak, and no water temp problem or Air condition. I think you shoud do the rebuilt engine better the disconnet the engine from the transmission because it cheap and the time is proper the same. Goodluck, and glad I can help. I live in LA.

You do not timing tool because it run by the coils. What you have to do is set the block at TDC on piston One and the valves on that piston must close so it has compression besides, the head cam do have mark that you have to remember to align when you put it back so do not worry about it. Make sure before you crank, turn the bottom so that everything is turn so when you crank, it should be start smoothly.

Thanks for that PDF (we should archive it somehow in an easily found way).

Because it's important to help others for this type of thread, I started trying to organize WHICH BMW engines have a non-ferrous cylinder liner and which have aluminum blocks or heads ... using that PDF plus wikipedia ... but it got so confusing ... that I just gave up at this point below ... Sigh.

hey everyone has a 5 series and i have this 7 series that will run but will overheat if i let the car just seat and idle for about 15 mins i turn right off it shows the temp gauge but it only got to 70c from what the screen stated underneath my odmeter

Replacing head gasket on BMW E39 - E60 is relatively easy. All you need is a right set of tools, BMW service manual from Bentley Publisher (around $180) that provides really detailed instructions with images on how to do it right the first time and in some cases BMW special tools. I was quoted $4000 for the head gasket + $2800 for parts, $3000 for the cooling system (water pump failure killed off the radiator and head gasket) and 2-3 days of free time (8hr/ day average). I ended up spending $2100 for the lot....

Here is what happened to me... And according to the info on the web this is a very common problem with BMW E39 and E60.

It only took one occasion after the water pump failure when the car displayed hi temperature warning for the head gasket and cooling system to fail.

Although I was contemplating to get rid of the car after first round of quotes I persisted with the idea of replacing what was required at home using the Bentley publisher manual (really awesome), BMW Camshaft locking and timing tool (really easy to use - purchased online for $400) and some special tools (can get them pretty cheap in just about any hardware store - $200 - $400 - BMW BP Manual will advise of what tools and Tools special code to be used as part of the head gasket replacement.

The car is now running better then ever.... Point of interest - Whilst working on the car I have found three of the head bolts to be snapped. This most probably happen during the original engine assembly at the BMW factory (all aluminum bolts are painted blue at the factory thus proving no prior head gasket repairs have taken place - have bought the car four years ago with 15,000km - I guess Zerman Quality can't always be taken for granted)

One think you should consider replacing is the VANOS valves that can quite easily fail if exposed to higher than normal temperatures, causing all kinds of problems at later stage .. here is something that could be of interest http://www.eurodb.com.au/New-used-ca...bmw-rough-idle

I know as I had the pleasure to replace Vanos valves twice in less than 30,000KM.

Another think for consideration should be the installation of aftermarket temperature gauge (this should be considered for any E39, E60, regardless if the car experienced any type if cooling problems). The right temperature range for BMW E60 N52 is between 95C to 105C with a maximum of 120C. I'm getting mine done next tuesday for $350 (top of the line product)

I have a 2001 530I . It ran hot while on the highway. I drove the car an additional 3 miles, when I got to my job the car was hotttt. I drive a truck so I went on out on the road assuming the engine was done. When I got back five days later. I added coolant , the car started and ran normally. ( no codes ) one thing I noticed the resivor was cracked. I had the resivor replaced and the car ran fine didnt over heat or anything. a month later its running hot. Is this a head gasket ? Now Ive heard that it is better to replace the engine in BMW vs doing a head job ? is this true ? Thank guys in advance ! ps the car has 125000 on it.