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Motor Trend has driven the Subaru BRZ in its native Japan. We have one in our long-term test fleet, and the car just participated in our 2013 Car of the Year event. But despite all the wheel time we’ve had in Subaru’s new sports coupe, when we received an offer from Subaru USA to romp around the U.K. in a BRZ on the way to the 2012 Goodwood Revival, we jumped at the opportunity. (Who wouldn’t?) I was the lucky journalist who drew the long straw, and while the period-themed vintage racing event was the perfect cap-off, the road to Goodwood proved just as incredible as the final destination.

Our route took us through roughly 500 miles of old English towns and countryside, beginning in Manchester, up through the Lake District, and finally ending up down south in Sussex at the Revival. Along the way, we hit a number of great locations, making this trip a perfect primer on England. Though you might think such a comprehensive tour of the United Kingdom calls for something suitably British, the BRZ served us well as our chariot. The boxer-powered rear-driver gobbled up the winding country roads and its compact size made getting around some of the narrower stretches of road much easier. Subaru brought over left-hand-drive U.S.-spec BRZ coupes for our tour, and they attracted a fair amount of attention from enthusiasts. If the steering wheel placement didn’t give us away, the car itself did — the BRZ is currently only available in very limited numbers in the U.K. Needless to say, our caravan of five BRZs with Illinois plates drew its share of stares from the locals.

Day 1: A Crash Course in British Traffic

I’d assumed I’d have the chance to ease into driving on the other side of the road. But it was sink or swim as we each paired up with another journalist and dove feet first into Manchester traffic. The first three consecutive roundabouts were a bit hairy, but soon after I was circling them like a pro. Everything was the reverse of what I was used to. Traffic circles run clockwise, while the right lane on the highway is the fast lane. A note about that fast lane: Even if you’re going well above the speed limit (hypothetically, of course), impatient panel van-drivers will get on your tail and flash you to let you know you’re in their way. The BRZ’s natural athleticism showed its worth on these confusing streets, especially when I found myself in the wrong lane and needed to make a quick maneuver. From Manchester, we headed north as a typical English rainstorm soaked our car. Our first stop, naturally, was a pub. Located in Coniston, a small village in Cumbria, the venue served as a nice introduction to British cuisine. After finishing our food, we drove down the main road to see the rest of the town.

Though they weren’t exactly one-way, the streets were so narrow that either you or the driver coming the other way had to yield in order to pass without brushing mirrors. Following the lead of the locals, we parked wherever we fit, paying no mind to which direction the car was facing. The town of Coniston only takes 15-20 minutes to see, but the small shops and cottage-style homes oozed with old English flavor. I wished there was more time to soak it in, but we still had a good deal of driving ahead of us.

The narrow road we were traveling was apparently a popular hiking route, which made spirited driving a risky proposition. Once we were clear of the hikers and blind corners, I wound up the BRZ’s 2.0-liter boxer close to its 7400-rpm redline and began having some fun. This didn’t last long, though, as our hotel was just around the corner.

Day 2: Sheep with a Death Wish and Why Hillclimb is Awesome

After a breakfast of blood sausage and other vital proteins, we set out on the second leg of our journey. We saw more livestock in this part of the country than the day before, with sheep lining the roads and sometimes even venturing onto the pavement. While the animals definitely added to the scenery, rounding blind corners and launching over whoop-de-doos was a white-knuckle affair. Our route took us through some of the most beautiful countryside England has to offer, with views overlooking lush valleys so vividly green you’d swear the entire scene was painted.

Once we were through the hills, the GPS unit provided by Subaru led us down some interesting back roads. Some seemed like legitimate thoroughfares, while others were clearly off the beaten path — in the most literal sense. One route took us up an unpaved path through a field. We ended up turning around soon after, but another pair of journalists who were also led astray told us we would’ve eventually reached a house in the middle of the field had we pressed on. I can only imagine what the owners would have thought about seeing a convoy of identical BRZ sports cars pulling up to their rural country home.

We eventually got back on track and made it to our intended destination: Harewood House, home to Queen Elizabeth’s late first cousin, the Earl of Harewood. This sprawling, regal estate would’ve been the day’s highlight if we didn’t have a reservation at a local hillclimb track. About a mile away from Harewood House is Harewood Speed Hillclimb, a circuit maintained by the British Automobile Racing Club (BARC). The track is unlike any we have in the U.S., as the course is laid out on the side of a hill. The concept of hillclimb is just like it sounds: begin at the bottom of a hill and make your way up while navigating a series of turns. Course workers placed at the start, finish, and specific corners ensure drivers are properly spaced apart during runs on the near-mile-long tarmac course. After a quick safety briefing, we were given helmets and told to empty our BRZs before heading on track.

My first lap was a sloppy one, as I’m used to having more track to work with. Here, a narrow strip of asphalt is all you get, so your racing line choices are limited. But that’s what made this track so fun. To improve my lap time, I just adjusted my braking. Applying the brakes a little later here and a little less there yielded noticeable results. Harewood’s fast elevation changes and variety of corners made it among the most pleasurable tracks I’ve driven, and driving it in a car as agile and communicative as the BRZ made the experience all the more memorable.

Day 3: How Not to Pump Gas in England

The last day of driving was the longest, covering nearly 300 miles. On this leg, we were treated to a mix of major cities, small towns, and more countryside. The first change in scenery came when we passed through a series of progressively more modern towns, until we eventually found ourselves in a completely urban landscape. This didn’t last long, as the GPS quickly led us out of the city and into a heavily wooded suburb. The transition took maybe five minutes. I remember remarking to my driving partner that I’d never seen such a dramatic change in landscape before.

After driving for a while, we needed to refuel. We got in line at a Tesco gas station, and pulled up to the pump when it was our turn. Thinking it would be like in the U.S., my partner walked into the office and asked the cashier for 50 British pounds sterling on our pump. He was informed that we’re supposed to pump first, and pay after. Baffled by this concept, we attempted to fill our BRZ with RON 97-grade fuel. We hit every button on the console, but it wasn’t pumping. We then noticed a sign above us with a symbol that resembled a credit card.

“Maybe that means we can’t pay cash at this one,” I suggested.

My partner spotted an open pump without the sign on the other side, so I quickly hopped in the BRZ and drove forward. I turned, only to notice the one-way arrows pointing in the opposite direction. I was apparently cheating the system by entering the back way, as I then noticed the line that had formed for the pump I had just taken. Though it was clear we were a pair of idiot Americans, the cashier still thought it necessary to give us an earful in that scornful yet polite way only the English can pull off.

Fueled up, we drove toward Brighton. A bustling metropolis, Brighton was a welcome sight after countless miles of grass and sheep. We made our way through the thick rush hour traffic and finally arrived at the hotel that would serve as our base camp during the Revival. Though the days ahead would be filled with just as many new sights and sounds, my scenic drive through England’s best roads in a Subaru BRZ is one I won’t soon forget.

One Ticket to the Past, Please: Discovering the Spirit of the Goodwood Revival

How Britain Rekindles its Racing Roots Each Year

After being stuck in gridlocked traffic for more than an hour, my clutch foot was getting sore. I slowly crept past dozens of overheating Jaguars and MGs in my manufacturer-supplied Subaru BRZ as the racetrack’s gates finally came into view. “What event could be worth this?” I wondered, as I sat sweating in my tweed coat. In just a few minutes I would have my answer: the Goodwood Revival, of course.

Goodwood Motor Circuit began life as an unused plot of land owned by the Earl of March. The property was eventually loaned to the Royal Air Force during World War II and converted into an airfield. Between missions, pilots would race around the airstrips in their personal cars, and the idea for a racetrack was born. In 1948, Goodwood hosted its first race, and the venue joined Silverstone circuit as one of Britain’s premier tracks. Many racing careers began and ended at Goodwood during its heyday, with Stirling Moss entering his first race there, Jackie Stewart winning his first Grand Prix, and Bruce McLaren tragically dying in a crash during testing.

As race cars got faster with the advancement of technology, accidents at Goodwood became a common sight. Race organizers asked for the course to be changed for safety reasons, but the track’s owners wouldn’t budge. As a result, the circuit stopped hosting racing events and was used solely as a test track until finally closing in the 1970s. When the current Earl of March returned to Goodwood Motor Circuit in the late ’80s, he found the track as a time capsule, virtually unchanged since its closure. Lord March then undertook a restoration project to return Goodwood to its former glory. The track reopened for the first Revival in 1998.

Once you step inside Goodwood, you’re effectively transported back in time. The dress code calls for period clothing that would have been worn in the years the track was open (1948-1966). To prepare for the event, I went on a shopping spree at my local thrift store. One English flat cap, argyle-pattern bowtie, and wool tweed coat later, I was ready for the Revival. Entering the grounds can be overwhelming at first, as you’re surrounded by masterfully restored sheetmetal and crowds of race-goers that look as if they’ve been plucked right out of the first half of the 20th century. The Revival is meant to recall the track’s glory days, but there isn’t one specific time in history represented. In one tent, women in poodle skirts would be getting down to early rock and roll, while in another, big band music blared as men in suits and fedoras swing-dipped their partners. Not everyone stuck to the 1948-1966 themes, either, as a Laurel and Hardy lookalike duo could be seen performing slapstick out of their Ford Model T, and at least one family came dressed as full-on hippies. But even with the meshing of time periods and a few slight anachronisms, the whole event works.

Helping to create this atmosphere was a troop of nearly 100 trained actors doing everything from attempting to sell you on the features of a 1950s Jaguar sedan in a mock dealership to go-go dancing in a store window. Also enhancing the vintage experience was Goodwood’s maximum age requirement for the vehicles within its gates. Much like the dress code, vehicles could only be up to 1966 models. Even the essential roles of fire truck and ambulance were filled by classic vehicles. Being that Goodwood was also formerly an airbase, World War II-era planes filled the track’s infield, performing aerobatics and flybys between races. Spread out around the track, you could find re-enactments of specific theaters of the war. One area was made up like a cafe, as French resistance fighters with machine guns smoked cigarettes outside. Our dining area was themed after an RAF mess hall, with the entrance serving as a command center, complete with radio operators relaying messages as officers strategized over a large map. There was even a desert scene paying tribute to the film “Lawrence of Arabia,” which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year.

Then, there were the cars. The rarity and provenance of the cars gathered at the Revival, not to mention the sheer number of vehicles showcased, would make any museum jealous. And most of them were there to race. The races were broken down by vehicle type and year, with a few specialty races like the single-make Shelby Cup thrown in. The the biggest highlight of the on-track festivities was the exhibition race of Grand Prix racers of the 1930s, which included the famed Silver Arrows. For the first time in 75 years, the entrants from Mercedes-Benz and Auto Union that dominated Grand Prix circuits prior to World War II shared a track. Once I found out both halves of the Silver Arrow threat had come to Goodwood, I had to get a closer look. There they were, lined up in all their unpainted glory: the Mercedes W25, W125, W154, and W165; and Auto Union Type A, C, and D racers. Painted above each car were the names of legends like Nuvolari, Caracciolla, Mueller, and others. With output reaching up to 640 hp, the Silver Arrows’ power figures wouldn’t be matched in Formula 1 for decades to come. Given the history and value of these cars, you’d expect just a parade lap around the circuit. Instead, the drivers didn’t hold back during the demo, tailing one another through corners with mere feet separating their wheels.

If the demonstration race is that intense, you can imagine how hard drivers race when there’s a trophy and bragging rights at stake. The 1950s sedan race was especially fun to watch, with competitors routinely swapping paint and going off track. Through the turns, most cars got loose in the rear, with the heavier Jaguars providing the most entertainment as they slid all around the track. But the Jaguar marque proved to be the biggest threat in the next race, which included 1960s GT cars like the Aston Martin DB4s, Ferrari 250 GTOs, Sunbeam Lister Tigers, and Jaguar E-Types. That race had even more intense on-track battles, with the two leading Jags genuinely scrapping for first place.

In the races that followed, we saw everything from vintage Le Mans prototypes and golden-age F1 cars to oddballs like the Tatra T603 rear-engined luxury sedan. On the final day, the festival took a break from racing to pay tribute to racing great Dan Gurney. A number of Gurney’s past rides were gathered, including his Trans-Am series Ford Mustang Boss 302 and Le Mans-winning Ford GT40 Mk IV, to celebrate the racer’s long, illustrious career. After delivering a speech, Gurney was decorated with a wreath and handed a bottle of champagne, allowing him to reenact his 1967 Le Mans victory where he famously sprayed the beverage over the crowd, creating a tradition that survives in the sport to this day.

As we began to pack up our things and head to the shuttle, the final race, for production GT cars raced from 1955 through 1960, was getting under way. Being true car nuts themselves, our hosts from Subaru decided to stay for the end of the race. With the sun low in the sky casting a warm glow on the track, I got lost in the moment. The lighting gives everything a film-like quality, and for a split second I feel like I’m watching historic footage from the track’s heyday. The roar of Jaguar D-Types and Aston Martin DBR1s zipping past me, along with the cheers of thousands of flat cap-wearing spectators brings me out of it, reminding me this is a real event — one unlike any other in the world.

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