This blog is a repository of observations and random thoughts of someone with a serious case of wanderlust

Saturday, April 6, 2013

Wisconsin Point - The Most Magical Place in the Cheesehead State

There are some places on the planet that are so special that they will never leave your mind. For me, Doi Chaing Doh Thailand comes to mind immediately as does Ourzazate, Morocco. Closer to home are places like Lake Clark National Park and Preserve in Alaska and Cave Creek Canyon in southeast Arizona's Chiricahua Mountains or the indescribable Platte River in central Nebraska. However for me no place is more magical than Wisconsin Point, an area known geologically as a baymouth bar just outside of Superior in Wisconsin's Douglas County.

My first time at "the Point" was during a wildly drunken smelt fishing trip there in high school. Given the general nature of smelt fishing I guess its repetative to say "wildly drunken" and "smelt fishing" in the same sentence. The two are one. I went there with Steve Benavides and some other buddies and we consumed large quantities of beer and caught large numbers of smelt and then drove back to Rice Lake arriving in one piece early the next morning. Two years later I traveled back to the Point with Lee Anderson and a couple of high school friends on another smelt fishing excursion. This time while in Lake Superior dragging a net to catch fish a large wave rolled over me, completely submerging me and filling my chest waders with frigid April water. A large campfire helped remove some of the twinge of the cold but not much.

Recent satellite image of Wisconsin Point. The dark brown water is Allouez Bay. Follow the Point to its end and you are at the ship entrance to Superior Harbor. The state to Wisconsin's west that begins with the letter M is on the other side of the entrance.

There were intermittent trips to the Point in subsequnt years but none are more memorable than May 22, 1975 when my then-wife and I traveled to the Point to watch spring migration. The morning dawned chilly and the sky was filled with fog. Everywhere you looked there was fog. Migrating birds were not able to move in the fog and when we arrived on the Point we found songbirds everywhere. Every bush and every tree limb seemed to be overloaded with song birds. Some, like a male Chestnut-sided Warbler, were so tame that they jumped on my arm and hopped around looking for insects. As the fog slowly lifted we moved from the trees out to the beach and found it littered with migrating shorebirds that, likewaise, could not migrate in the heavy fog. Eventually by early afternoon when the fog had completely lifted we looked out on Lake Superior and found it crawling with migrating ducks and cormorants and loons. In seven hours that morning on the Point Ruth and I observed 135 species of birds. Every species of warbler, vireo and flycatcher that nests in northern Wisconsin or migrates through it was there as were all of the thrushes. On the beach we found every species of shorebird that occurs regularly in Wisconsin as well as 12 species of duck, and both regulalry-occurring loons. The Wisconsin state bird list at the time was about 400 species. Fully 34 percent of all the bird species ever recorded in the state - one third of the state list total - was found that morning on a stretch of land no more than 100 yards wide and 5 mile long that juts into Lake Superior. We returned to Superior and the Point a month later and while driving by the dry-docks in Superior we saw a ship named the Edmund Fitzgerald. History tells us that just a few months later the Fitz went down in a tremendous November gale on Lake Superior. She had sailed past the tip of Wisconsin Point on her way to sea after repairs.

I remember Harry Reasoner giving this news report on the evening news like it was yesterday. The song is one of the most eerily poignant songs I've ever heard. I met Gordon Lightfoot once and he told me this was the most difficult, heart-wrenching song he ever attempted.

When Daryl Tessen did his first revision of the Wisconsin bird finding guide titled "Wisconsin's Favorite Bird Haunts" I had the privilege of writing the chapter on Wisconsin Point. I also wrote about a nearby overlook that Ruth and I had discovered that we called "Gull Bluff" because of the huge concentrations of gulls that are observable from that overlook.

My first job with the US Fish and Wildlfie Service was as an ascertainment biologist in the Regional Office in Minneapolis. There we worked on a program called "Unique Wildlife Ecosystems" that involved identifying unique non-waterfowl habitats that were to be considered for inclusion in the National Wildlife Refuge system. We nominated four areas in Wisconsin and now 36 years later all four have been protected in one form or another. Those areas included what is now the Fox River Sandhill Crane Marsh National Wildlfie Refuge in southern Wisconsin, the Mink River marshes in Door County, the area now known as the Kinnickinnic River State Park west of River Falls (where I just happened to have gone to both undergraduate and graduate school), and the incomparable Wisconsin Point. The Point is protected and managed by either Douglas County or the city of Superior (or both?) and will hopefully never be defiled by condominium developments like so many other areas along beautiful stretches of water. The Point will still be there long after I am gone and that is how it should be.

My friend-since-grade school Pam Huseth and I recently had a discussion about Wisconsin Point and she sent me an article she had that tells some of the history and more recent controversies about this magical place. I have reprinted that story below, probably in violation of some copyright laws but what the hell. This is another avenue for informing people about the Point. I hope you enjoy learning about this very special place.

Canku Ota

(Many Paths)

An Online Newsletter Celebrating Native
America

May 17, 2003 - Issue 87

Wisconsin Point War Nears End

by
By Harry R. Zander of the Journal Staff - From The Milwaukee Journal -
December 14, 1924

credits: submitted by Timm Severud (Ondamitag)

Battle of Three Generations for the Last of the Chippewa
Domains Picturesque

Superior - The most desolate and at the same
time the most expensive unimproved land in Wisconsin lies here, off the
Superior Harbor, a throwback to the primitive days of the United States'
conquest of the Indian lands, a bone of contention over which nearly
$1,000,000 has been spent already, the center piece of an industrial project
involving the future expenditure of between $15,000,000 and $20,000,000.

Two generations have
been born, loved, fought, reared families and completed the human span in
death since the conflict over Wisconsin Point had its inception. A third
generation is springing up, grounded as firmly in the principles of
aboriginal ownership of the Point as were those old Chippewas under Chief
Osagie, who opposed the dickerings with the white man back in 1841.

There remains only
four of the descendants of old Chief Osagie and his counselors who have been
adamant against the blandishments and lures of the white invasion. Yet this
quartet of swarthy half-breeds, turning up their noses at the loosened purse
strings of America's wealthiest corporation, sneering at the oily tongued
promises of lives of ease and wealth, ignoring the crushing advance of modern
industry upon the wilderness, which has been their fathers' and their
fathers' father' as far back as human memory goes, wage with the white men's
own weapons their battle for their heritage.

Tribes Defy Steel
CompanyThis heritage, as the average man would view
it, is not much. It is 300 acres of desolation over which the snow-laden
winds swirl from the long reaches of Lake Superior and the northland. A few
jack pines dot its expanse. Wild grasses, brush and sand dunes cover it. It
looks like a land that God forgot. Yet in the eerie winds that thresh the
cones from the jack pines and whistle through the stubbles growth the red me
of the white age hear the voices of a long line of ancestors about the
council fires of the happy hunting grounds protesting against the passing of
the last of the Chippewa domains. Legends of great warriors and tales of
mighty huntsmen ride every breeze that caresses the peninsula and in every
gale that lashes the point the red children of a great Indian nation see the
wrath of the mighty Chippewas aroused.

It is a wasteland,
indeed, yet the unsentimental winds which drive the great $2,000,000,000
United States Steel Corporation, America's biggest combine, envision upon
these desolate shores and wretched acres enormous docks to handle its iron
and steel shipments.

For more than a
third of a century now sentiment prevailed over business and the untutored
savages' offspring have withstood the encroachment of the corporation. Recent
developments, however seem to indicate that the conflict is almost at an end.

Negotiations Started
in 1840The history of Wisconsin Point, as it touches
the subject of this review, dates back to 1840 when the white fathers of the
government began to deal with the Fond du Lac Band of Chippewa Indians,
through Chief Osagie for possession of the land. In 1842 the overtures of the
whites were successful and a treaty was drawn up whereby the federal
government obtained the 300-acre peninsula with the understanding that the Indians
might continue to live there until ordered off by the President of the United
States, after which homes would be provided on the Fond du Lac reservation in
Minnesota.

Instead of settling
all differences over the land, however, the treaty merely marked the
beginning of a prolonged era of litigation, armed warfare and general
trouble. Hundreds of thousands of dollars have been spent on the land to make
it ready for the big industrial project, working staring and in some case
approaching completion in lulls of the conflict during which the Indians'
claims were believed to have been finally settled.

Five years after the
treaty with Chief Osagie was signed, sealed and delivered, Frank Lemieux or
La Swiss as he was sometimes called came down from Madeline Island and
married a daughter of Chief Osagie taking up his residence on the point and
gradually assuming leadership of the Chippewas. Lemieux was a half Indian and
half French, having migrated from the La Pointe settlement on Madeline Island
to marry Osagie's daughter.

White Settler Enters
ClaimSeven years later, in 1853, during the period
of when land speculation was at its height in the Northwest Territory, Joseph
A. Bullen, a white man, cast appraising eyes upon the point. In February
1854, he made proof of his pre-emption entry, paid the required amount of
cash and got a receiver's receipt for the land. A month later however, in
March of the same year, the president ordered the land reserved for military
purposes and in the following May the land department issued an order
suspending the entry of Bullen. In 1855 the land was released from military
reservation and the entry rights of Bullen were recognized by the government.

Subsequently Bullen
sold the Point to the Agate Land Company, a subsidiary of the United Steel
Corporation. But Frank Lemieux and Chief Osage's daughter did not relish the
idea of heir domain being converted into a forest of machinery and devices,
which they did not understand. The others of the already dwindling Fond du
Lac Band supported them in their protest.
Years dragged by in weary succession with frequent attempts by Lemieux to
contest the Bullen entry and to obtain from the government the title to the
land, which he represented was his as Chief Osage's son-in-law. In 1891,
however, the patent was finally issued to Bullen on his entry in 1854.
Lemieux appealed from this action to the Secretary of the Interior, but the
decision was affirmed by Hoke Smith, the Secretary at that time, and Bullen
was once more confirmed in his possession.

Defend Land With
GunsBitter fights ensued, the Indians holding
possession of the land at the points of rifles for a considerable period.
Quiet and order were restored again and diplomats attempted to pacify the
Indians with settlements. Eventually the land was platted on one portion of
the point and streets for a town laid out, a city park, called Independence
Square, being included in the platting, so arranged to include Lemieux's
home, presumable to prevent molesting him.

The old warrior was
getting on in years; however, and in 1902 he died, leaving a tangled web of
legal red tape to be unraveled by his widow and five children. The widow
survived him by only five years, when she too passed away, leaving the
children and their descendants to carry on the battle.

Several of the heirs
of Lemieux moved to the City of Superior so that their children might have
access to the schools but they always maintained some member of the family on
Wisconsin Point to protect their title to the land through uninterrupted
possession.

The year after the
death of Lemieux's widow the steel company's officials and the officials of
the interested subsidiaries believed their title clear and all difficulties
cleared away. The erection of a connecting rail line from the Minnesota Steel
Co.'s plant west of the St. Louis River in Minnesota was constructed,
skirting the city of Superior, and the erection of the long bridge from the
mainland across a wide marshy stretch to the point was completed. The
opportunity to build the largest ore loading docks on any of the Great Lakes
appeared to be at hand at last.

Another Settlement
MadeBut the troubles were not yet over. Certain of
the old Indians, spurring on the Lemieux descendants, laid fresh claim to the
land, disregarding the Treaty of 1842 and pointing to their uninterrupted
habitation of the land since the days when white men were not known here.

The land company,
having already spent $300,000 for its title and fully as much more on
improvements, demurred and the course was taken to court. After hanging fire
for years a financial settlement was made with all the descendants of the
original settlers except three children and a grandson of Lemieux, the
latter's son Frank Jr., having died leaving a son, Phillip. A daughter
of the original Lemieux, Mrs. Mary La Vierge making a settlement over the
land concerned. The three other children contesting the case were Peter and
John Lemieux and Mrs. Martineau.

Including in the
settlement the steel concern made with the Indians was an agreement that the
land company would remove the Indian dead from a cemetery, which stood in the
way of its proposed docks, to the Nemadji River Cemetery in Superior's East
End. This was done in 1918 and further plans for improvements started by the
Steel Corporation's subsidiary.

For of the Lemieux
descendants namely the two sons, Peter and John, the daughter, Maggie
Martineau, and the nephew, Phillip Lemieux, however, still claim title to the
land and in 1920 the brought suit against the Agate Land Company.

Family Retains
Square.Following a lengthy hearing Judge W. R. Foley
on October 28, 1924, rendered a decision stating that the Agate Land Company
had clear title to the land with the exception of the streets, belonging to
the City of Superior, and the small strip in Independence Square, which Frank
Lemieux and his descendants actually had occupied since 1846. That bit of
land, no more than 150 by 80 feet, was awarded the Lemieux heirs.

Now, attorneys
handling the case believe that after the struggle of half a century, the
Lemieux descendants will come to an agreement with the steel concern whereby
the final bit of Indians land will pass into the hands of the white men,
making possible the completion of their plans for extensive improvements.

There still is a possibility
however, that the Indians will refuse to accept the decision of Judge Foley
and will appeal the case to a higher court. In that event, the battle of he
ages will be renewed once more while the steel company's bridge and the
network of its proposed docks rot away.

Indians of Wisconsin Point are still carrying their fight to preserve the
last of the sacred lands, against America's wealthiest corporation. Pictured
above is a group of a group of the descendants of Chief Osagie and Frank
Lemieux in the act of removing the bodies of their ancestors from an Indian
cemetery to the main land.

Canku Ota is a free Newsletter
celebrating Native America, its traditions and accomplishments . We do not
provide subscriber or visitor names to anyone. Some articles presented in
Canku Ota may contain copyright material. We have received appropriate
permissions for republishing any articles. Material appearing here is
distributed without profit or monetary gain to those who have expressed an
interest. This is in accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107.

21 comments:

hello!,I like your writing very much! proportion we keep in touch extra approximately your post on AOL?I require an expert on this space to unravel my problem.May be that is you! Looking ahead to peer you.

I'm really enjoying the design and layout of your site. It's a very easy on the eyes which makes it much more pleasant for me to come here and visit more often.Did you hire out a developer to create your theme?Fantastic work!

Simplу wiѕh to say уοur article is as astonishing. The clearness in уour pοѕt is juѕt nіce and i can aѕѕume уou аre an exρeгt on this subject.Well with youг permission аlloω me to grab your fееd to keep up to dаte with forthсоming post.Τhanks a million and ρleasе сontinuе the grаtifying woгk.Visit www.growtallermaster.com

Do you have a ѕpam problem оn thіs blоg; Ӏ also am а blogger, and I ωaѕ wondeгing your ѕіtuation;mаny of us have develоped some nіce practiceѕ and ωe are lookіng to trade solutіons with othеrs, be suгe to shoοt mе an еmail if intereѕted.theperfectface.org/lose-..

Hi there, just became alert to your blog through Google, and found that it's truly informative. I am gonna watch out for brussels. I'll be grateful if you continue this in future. Numerous people will be benefited from your writing. Cheers!

Right here is the perfect webpage for everyone who would like to understand this topic. You understand so much its almost hard to argue with you (not that I actually will need to…HaHa).You definitely put a new spin on a topic which has been discussed for many years. Excellent stuff, just great!

Hey just wanted to give you a quick heads up.The words in your content seem to be running off the screen in Safari.I'm not sure if this is a formatting issue or something to do with web browser compatibility but I thought I'd post to let you know. The design look great though!Hope you get the problem resolved soon. Cheers

Hi! I know this is kinda off topic but I was wondering if you knew where I could locate a captcha plugin for my comment form? I'm using the same blog platform as yours and I'm having trouble finding one?Thanks a lot!

I drop a leave a response each time I appreciate a post on a blog or if I have something to valuable to contribute to the discussion.It is a result of the passion displayed in the post I looked at. And on this article "Wisconsin Point - The Most Magical Place in the Cheesehead State".I was excited enough to post a thought ;) I actually do have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind. Could it be simply me or does it look like like some of the responses look like they are coming from brain dead folks? :-P And, if you are writing on other sites, I would like to keep up with you. Would you list the complete urls of all your community sites like your twitter feed, Facebook page or linkedin profile?

Hi there, I found your blog by the use of Google while looking for a related subject, your website came up, it appears to be like good. I have bookmarked it in my google bookmarks.

Hello there, simply became alert to your blog via Google,and found that it's really informative. I'm gonna be careful for brussels. I will be grateful in the event you continue this in future.Numerous other people might be benefited from your writing. Cheers!