Rem Koolhaas On Building Shoes for United Nude (& Trying on Heels)

Rem D Koolhaas, the Pritzker Prize winning architect, is also half of the brains behind United Nude shoes (the other half is Galahad Clark, yeah, of those Clark's). When we got a sneak peek of their new Ultra Loop bootie, made entirely from carbon fiber, we had to ask Rem a few questions.

ELLE: Do you start with the design or the materials first?

In this case, we knew what shape we wanted to make and knew that we could only use carbon fiber, as no other material would be strong enough. We used ultra strong carbon fiber to enable an extreme heel construction. Mostly our design and shape come first and then we list our options and choose. The design is based on a simple concept of penetration: a floating foot-bed slips through a sexy loop, functioning as both heel and upper.

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ELLE: How do you approach combining the two?

We figure out the benefits and limitations of each material first. Sometimes we choose the material first and then make a design guided by the material and its behavior. United Nude products are about clear concept, elegance and innovation.

ELLE: What's the most challenging part of building a shoe?

It's funny that you say it like that and for us it's the right way to say it. A shoemaker or shoe designer wouldn't say to construct a shoe, but to make a shoe. The most challenging is to build something that is original, elegant, and comfortable and to be able to produce it for a fair price. Like everything else in life, it's all about balance. United Nude wants to operate as a design company in this way, with specific projects and collaborations as opposed to seasonal ranges with a fashion direction.

ELLE: Have you ever walked around in your heels to make sure they're comfortable?

I tried a size 43 Sharpei boots that we made especially for a friend. I think without any high heel experience anyone suffers. To ensure the comfort of our shoes we have a series of size 38 fitting models, including my wife.

ELLE: Would you be surprised to hear of people buying your shoes as a piece of artwork?