Seven secrets to surviving Kyoto

It is Japan’s aristocratic city, having been the capital for a millennium or so. It can, however, be tricky. Here are seven quick tips for surviving Kyoto, based on a recent three-day trip. (None of this should be taken as complaining about the place or the people — they do what works for them. I’m only providing a few hints for travelers trying to navigate the city.)

Spud Hilton / Bad Latitude

1. Taxi doors open by themselves: No, it’s not magic; the driver has a button to open the rear passenger door remotely (which is on the left, since the driver is on the right in Japan). While not life-threatening, it can be a little startling the first time, especially if you jam a finger reaching for the handle. Even more startling if the door hits you in more (ahem) delicate places.

2. Few ATMs will take U.S. debit cards: The cash machines at most convenience stores (except 7-Eleven and 7 & I Holdings) only take Japanese bank cards and, oddly, Citibank cards. None of the standalone street ATMs I found had any instructions in English and it wasn’t apparent even how to insert a card. If all else fails, find the 7-Eleven.

3. Coffee drinkers need to adapt: Other than at Osaka airport, I didn’t see a Starbuck’s or any other chain coffee shop in Kyoto; only a few indie shops. That said, they must drink a helluva lot of coffee because the vending machines that sell juice and energy drinks also carry 5-6 varieties of espresso or cafe latte in a can (albeit a small can). These vending machines are about every 30 meters in almost every neighborhood, so if you don’t mind canned coffee, you have plenty of options.

4. Count blocks: The vast majority of street name signs are in Japanese characters only. It doesn’t really help to have a map if you never know what street you’re on. Get acquainted with the main streets and count along with your map. (Note: Some alleys are on the map, others aren’t.) And yes, you can use Google maps on your smart phone, but the roaming charges will kill ya.

5. Biker madness: It turns out that bicycle riders, for the most part, avoid being killed in car accidents by riding on the sidewalk, often plowing ahead through crowds of pedestrians (who seem to know instinctively the exact moment to jog left or right). This definitely makes being a pedestrian in Kyoto more exciting.

Spud Hilton / Bad Latitude

6. Avoid temple fatigue: Kyoto has so many jaw-dropping temples and shrines, don’t try to spend more than half of any one day just on that. It’s tough to appreciate the beauty when the sites all start to look the same. Another option is to find one you really like and stay for a few hours — find out why so many have sought solitude in that place.

7. Learn at least a little Japanese: Despite the urban myth that all children in Japan learn English in school, I ran into two people (outside of my hotel staff) with anything more than 3 or 4 useful phrases. The rest was pantomime, drawing and apologetic shrugs. This becomes problematic in locating specific restaurants or shops, where 90 percent of the signs are in Japanese characters (kanji or katakana). (Again, this is not their shortcoming but mine, just so we’re clear.) About the only consistently English-labeled businesses seem to be the “salary man” bars and clubs — that English-only travelers aren’t welcome in. Go figure.