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The list is a bunch of information that I have
collected from other Isuzu owners over the past 10 years.

The FAQ's
that I created is about 95% Copy and Paste from other peoples posts at message
forums. I have been reading Isuzu forums for about 10 years now. When I started
to see there were a lot of the same problems I started to bookmark them.
February 2004, on a snowy day while sitting on my couch I spent 8 hours, pulling it
all together. This page
was updated on Jan 2010

Some have also reported a
diesel/exhaust sound coming from the engine bay, caused by the nut on the bottom
of the EGR valve coming loose or free. If this nut is loose, use a 22 mm
"stubby" wrench to tighten as tight as you can get it.

1 : Remove the EGR valve
there are 2 holes the larger one is the one that supplies exhaust, flow don’t
worry about it. The other is a vacuum port this is where exhaust gases are
directed when the EGR valve opens, carbon deposits stick to the walls of the
vacuum port and in time will restrict flow normally about 30,000
miles.

2: Check your local dealer
for Intake cleaner ask about BG products all you will need is the intake cleaner
(spray can), or head to your local parts place and pick up a can or carb cleaner
that is safe for O2 sensors, find something to plug the larger hole make sure it
will not vibrate and fall out there will be slight exhaust pressure on it but
not much just be sure it is plugged real well because if not you may be
surprised by a flame. Once plugged start the vehicle, spray intake cleaner into
the vacuum port you may have to raise the idle to do or just open the throttle
by hand spray until the can is empty.

3 : check your EGR valve
push the pintle on the bottom be sure it moves in and out freely if not clean it
don’t replace the valve once the pintle moves as it should reinstall the EGR
valve disconnect battery for a few minutes or have code cleared.

TIP: If you want to clean the
EGR port which is located behind the throttle body, you can open up the throttle
body and stick a 3/8" diameter poly-vinyl hose onto it. Then you can spray
carb clean in the port (the one by the EGR) and all the junk will flush out the
tube, instead of into your engine.

I used 3/8" ID tube that I got at
Lowes. However it was a bit small, so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to
expand it; I just slipped the hose over the pliers' tips and spread them out and
held them in place for a minute or so, the hose slipped right onto the EGR tube
then. I did have to remove the throttle body to more easily access the EGR tube.

First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.
I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried

to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake

and place it above the TB.
So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of

carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake

and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1,

and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in

the butterfly to let it air out.
Next I removed the egr, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the egr itself. I sprayed down the inside of

the egr and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the egr tube and the hole next to it,

and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the egr sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes

before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.
Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing.

I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10

seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light!

NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated

the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled

in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car

yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!

Just a little FYI, +98 Isuzu have a solenoid to activate the
sprung pintel in the EGR. The pintel is what gets carboned up, and needs to be
cleaned. Diaphram EGR's, are actuated by vacuum lines to the EGR. Many mechanics
are not use to this new solenoid activated EGR and assume that when there is a
fault code, it is a bad diaphram.

The first thing to do is the check the gas
cap, make sure it is tight, make sure you give it 5 or 6 clicks.
Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes. And then start it up. If the
CEL is still on, the next step would be to clean the EGR (see the above
write-up).

if your gas gauge is not working and
you may have a check engine light on as well then you need a new
fuel sending unit. Dealers may tell you that you need a new fuel
pump and that a fuel sending unit is not available for your vehicle.
However, this is not that case. I have Isuzu OEM/Factory fuel
sending units that will fit any Rodeo and Passport from 1998-2002.
You will not need to recalibrate anything and it should cost no more
than $150 to install, or you can do it yourself in under 2 hours!
This unit WILL fix you problem. Do not let the dealer rip you off! I
fixed mine in my 2000 Rodeo 4x4 and figured I may as well help
others out and save other hundreds of dollars. My item is for sale
by calling Andy at (407) 625-4295 or
anicol@cfl.rr.com or by looking on eBay.com for Seller
awnicol25. Good luck! Save some money!

GM Canada has changed its policy with the fuel sending unit (FSU).
They will not repair the FSU under warranty under any circumstances now. As I
was told "you are on your own". Even though the FSU is one part with the fuel
pump, now the FSU is not covered under the powertrain warranty. This policy has
changed since december.

So I called Merlin at St.Charles Isuzu to order one for my 2000 rodeo ls and I
found out that the FSU is made specifically for the 1999 model My 2000 rodeo pcm
would have to be reprogrammed and even after the reprogramming St. Charles Isuzu
has had customers return with complaints. So they only change the FSU on 1999
models only. All other models they replace the whole fuel pump.

Hello Ryan:
Your Isuzu fact-finding website #faq2
was a huge help in my research on a ongoing problem I have had with my 2000
Isuzu Rodeo. I am the original owner and a year ago, went to the dealer and
they indicated the FUEL SENDING UNIT (fuel gauge not working) was not covered
under the Powertrain 10yr/100K warranty. Well after reviewing notes on your
site, I contacted the Isuzu corporate customer service and they indicated that
IT IS covered. I called the local Houston, TX dealer and they said no it's not
that it "is not attached directly to the fuel pump - therefore it is not
considered part of the warranty". I told them to please call the Isuzu
customer service/owner relations manager that I spoke to (800) 255-6727 to get
Isuzu's most recent information and to fix my car!
It worked, I just rec'd my warranty work for the fuel sending unit (FSU) and
paid nothing! Please post my info on your site, so other Isuzu owners can do
the same. Isuzu customer relations number works wonders! If a dealer is giving
you a hard time - refer to the corporate office - it worked for me.
Thanks for all your efforts with the web info - it saved me $470.00 for this FSU
repair.
Stacey Cramer
Houston, Texas
(2000 Isuzu Rodeo LS owner)

The 2000-2004 engines have the GM/delphi "ion sensing" ignition system where
the spark plugs are used as a sensor (when they are not firing) to measure the
electrical resistance of the gasses in the combustion chamber.

Other plugs may cause the ECU to register a code
(misfire code: P1340). Also, it has been noted that some 00 trucks came
with champion plugs from the factory, which cause knocking, due to to ion sense
coils.

If you have 1998-1999,
the suggested plugs are NGK or Denso or Champion double platinum plugs.

A dirty EGR port may cause
knocking. Knocking also, may be caused by carbon build-up in the
combustion chamber. Adding one 20oz bottle of Chevron
Techron Concentrate® every
3k, will help to keep the combustion chamber and fuel injectors
clean. Also Sea Foam is another excellent
product to use (it can be added to the gas and the oil).

Finally keep that PCV valve
clean! Either replace it once a year, or pull it every 6 months or so and
spray it out with some carb cleaner.

Did your engine blow up
in your Trooper/Rodeo? if so file a complaint at:
link

Oil usage. Yep
Isuzu states that 1qt/1000miles is within spec. So the key is to keep an eye on
your oil. The most common ways to decrease your oil consumption is to clean your
EGR valve and tube, EGR port (behind the intake butterfly) (link to a how to
clean the EGR), replace the PCV valve. Also, trying to keep the rings clean
(add Chevron
Techron Concentrate®every
3k, and right before every oil change add half a bottle of Sea
Foam® to the
oil (following the directions) take it for a 20 drive and then drain the oil
(after doing this 3 times, I now use zero oil every 3k). Dirty rings (holes in the rings) are the
main cause for oil usage. The 98-mid00 have fewer and smaller drain holes
in the rings as compared to the 93-97 3.2L rings. The second part of 2000
Isuzu put in rings with more and bigger holes, but there still seems to be many
2000-2002 Isuzu’s that use oil.

Oil usage
commonly increases while driving the truck hard, including during highway
interstate conditions. If your taking a cross country trip, check your oil
every time you fill up with gas.

If you take
many short trips with your truck, make sure you change the oil at least every
3k. If you don’t run the truck (or any vehicle) at least 30 minutes every
time it is started up the oil breakdown products are not able to boil off and
can cause sludgeing (which can clog those oil rings).

[edit 1June2005] I have been
reading more and more (almost weekly) about Trooper owners who run their +98
trucks out of oil due to this issue. Please check your oil weekly!

I USE BG ENG FLUSH, BUT THE MAIN THING IS TO DO IT
CORRECTLY, IN USING THE BG AND I WOULD IMAGINE THE SEAFOAM AS WELL, GET THE
ENG TO NORMAL TEMP AND DRAIN THE OIL , NOW INSTALL THE SEAFOM OR THE BG FLUSH
WITH A NEW FILTER JUST A CHEAP OIL FILTER AND A CHANGE OF 5W30 ENG OIL
DOES NOT HAVE TO BE HI GRADE OIL , NOW RUN THE ENG FOR ABOUT 45 MINUTES, WATCH
THE OIL PRESSURE DOES NOT START TO DROP, IF IT DOES SHUT IT DOWN IMMEDIATELY,
USUALLY WILL NOT DO THIS ,IF THE ENG IS REALLY GUMMED UP IT COULD PLUG UP THE
OIL PICKUP PIPE , NOW DRAIN THE OIL ,REPLACE THE FILTER AND DO IT AGAIN WITH
A ANOTHER BG OR SEAFOAM TREATMENT , THIS TIME DRIVE IT 1/2 HR -45 MIN, NOW
DRAIN , AND ANOTHER FILTER AND THIS TIME FILL WITH ROTELLA 5-40 DSL GRADE
ENG OIL THIS IS A VERY HI DETERGENT OIL, AND WATCH THEN THE OIL USAGE ,
AND RUN THIS OIL ABOUT 3000 MILES AND KEEP ADDING IF NECESSARY TO KEEP THE
LEVEL NORMAL,, OR AS SOON AS THE OIL STARTS TO TURN REAL BLACK , CHANGE IT
AGAIN , THE QUICKER IT TURNS BLACK MEANS IT IS CLEANING THE ENG , IT MAY
HOWEVER TAKE A COUPLE OF OIL CHANGES TO GET ALL THE DIRTY STUFF OUT AND THE
CARBON AND VARNISH TO START DISSAPEARING , AND THEN USE THE 5W40 ROTELLA ALL
THE TIME ,, IT,S AVAILABLE AT WALMART , I WOULD DO THIS BEFORE GOING INTO THE
ENG AND SEE IF TI DOESNT HELP, ALLSO MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE PCV VLV IS
WORKING OR JUST REPLACE IT .MAIN THING IS JUST DONT RUN LOW OF OIL ,, THE
REASON YOU WANT TO USE FREASH ENG OIL WITH THE ENG FLUSH , YOU DONT WANT
IT TRYING TO BREAK DOWN THE SLUDGE AND VARNISH IN THE ENG AND ALLSO WHAT IS
ALLREADY IN THE OLD OIL , WITH FREASH OIL ALL IT CAN ATTACK IS THE BUILD UP ON
THE INTERNALL PARTS

"the piston has three
rings top compression second compression and oil scraper ring the oil scraper
ring land (groove) has oil drain back hole in the piston which get plugged
causing oil consumption I've reringed to many of these motors under warranty for
isuzu."

At some point Isuzu change the design of the Trooper 3.5L
(and I would bet the 3.5L direct injection found in some Rodeos) pistons to help
reduce oil consumption. If you have a PCV valve that screws in (one that
is treaded) you have the new engine type. Link to more info

As for
Oil useage, I was reading my CD manual last night, and it stated the following
reasons for increased oil consumption: 1. Dirty EGR (system) 2. Dirty PCV 3.
Carbon up piston rings 4. Long highway trip 5. Towing

-----------------

Background - I got a zillion miles on
my Troop. '98, 3.5. Its burned oil for years...actually for 6 years. Last few
years has been 1qt/400 miles. Didnt seem to affect the vehicle at all - ran
super duper.

What I have tried as far as fixing the oil burning?
1. Auto RX clean/rinse 4 times - 2000 mile clean, 2000 mile rinse. 4 times.
2. Seafoam - 1/4 can in the crankcase. 1/2 can in the crankcase, full can in the
crankcase - You name it, ive donr it. Hell, Ive run a full can for 300 miles
before draining.
3. Cylinder soaks.
4. New EGR, cleaned EGR tube, New PCV
5. Mobil 1 5w-20, 5-30, 10-30, tried 'em all!

Ive done it all over the years.
Nothing cured the oil burn. I quit trying to fix the burning about a year ago. I
just said the heck with it and bought a case of Walmart oil on sale and put it
out of my mind.
--------------------------------------

So I was browsing Bob is the oil guy.com the other day.... ran across some
deeply-buried post from a 1999 trooper owner who said he
cured his oil burning by using
Shell Rotella 15w-40 diesel truck oil.

Of course I thought Bull-s__t, it wont work. We need a thinner oil to get
through our clogged drainback holes!

But I decided to try it anyways. Just to prove him wrong I guess.

I cant F-ing believe it. You dont F-ing believe
it either Im sure, but my oil level has not dropped even a millimeter in over
1000 miles!

Only info I can give you is that there's a TSB (technical service bulletin)
on all 1998 to 2003 Isuzu models equipped with 3.2L or 3.5L engine that revamps
the torque specifications for the "gasket intake manifold to cylinder head".
Revised torque for both the 3.2L and the 3.5L is 13 lb ft.

Stalling / TSB about a leaky intake manifold
gasket. Presents itself as a sporadic stalling problem under the following
conditions: a. Engine at normal operating temp. b. Low speed or
acceleration from a stop. c. 15-20 seconds before shut down, engine
feels sluggish like missing fuel. d. The engine stalls and is hard to start but
after 3-5 minutes of rest it does perfectly fine and engine runs smoothly.
Solution 1: Check computer and reset/check PCM wires. Solution 2: Dealership
says most of the 3.2L's they checked for a leaky gasket turned out to have
it.

If you have the 10yr/120k
warranty you are covered.

If you are the second owner
(2000-2002) you are covered for 5yr/60k.

Isuzu P/N: 8-97237-538-0 list for $18.88 ea

This message was from Sam Jelinek, who many of you know from ZuZoo and elsewhere. He is an Isuzu Master Mechanic

I believe, and in this message he described how to replace an intake manifold gasket on the 3.2/3.5 engine.

Please note that I have not tried this procedure, and cannot say if and how
well it works. I offer it simply because many of us with Isuzu V6 engines
are getting out of warranty now, and may need DIY instructions.

So here it is, paraphrased and edited for clarity (Sam is a better mechanic
than writer):

Something that has been showing up even more lately on the new V6 engine, the
intake gaskets are starting to leak and break. If the gasket is leaking real bad
you can hear an air leak from the engine, almost like the airbox is not tight.

Using a can of carb cleaner you can check this very easy. Spray around the
intake, most of the time on the drivers side, and you can find the leak.

To repair the leak, here is how it goes:

Remove the air intake hose from the throttle body.

Remove the 4 bolts that hold the throttle body to the intake. No need to
remove any other hoses from the throttle body.

Unhook the injector wiring from each injector.

This is the hard part: on the passenger side of the intake you have to remove
the EGR flow pipe nut. You will need a 7/8" or 22mm wrench, may even have to cut
the wrench short to get it in there.

Remove the 2 long bolts on each side.

Remove the 2 short bolts from each side, I think they are on the front and
rear of the intake.

On the Troopers the intake will lift up enough to get the old gaskets out. On
the Rodeo use short bungy cords to hold the intake up so that the old gaskets
can be removed.

When removing the old gaskets be careful, they may be broken. Do not let the
pieces fall into the intake.

Use a clean rag to wipe off the intake surface on the cylinder head and
reinstall the new gaskets.

Let the intake back down and start the EGR flow pipe before putting the other
bolts in the intake.

Note these were for a 99 Amigo with the 3.2 engine (3.5 and 3.2 are the same for 98-04).
1. After unhooking the injector wiring from each injector, remove the 4
bolts attaching the fuel rail to the intake manifold. Then remove the
injectors from the manifold.
2. I found no need to cut down the 7/8" wrench. A normal 7/8" wrench
fit
in fine with no altercation. However, I did need to cut down an allen
wrench (I think it was 6mm) to remove a metal bracket attached to the
drivers side, rear end on the top manifold cover. There are 2 bolts
holding this on. Also I removed the 2 bolts holding a vacuum diaphragm to
the rear of the manifold. Remove any wires and hoses to the top manifold
(these are obvious). The top manifold will then slip out and off, towards
the front of the vehicle. This gives you complete access to the top
manifold gasket and mating surfaces.
3. After removing the 4 corner nuts, the lower manifold can be raised
just barely, and I mean just barely, enough to pull the old gaskets out.,
and weasel the new ones in. I found it helpful to have someone pry up the
manifold (careful where you pry as to not damage mating surfaces) while I
worked the gaskets out and in.

The manual states it should
be done every 30k. Others have stated that if you do not do deepwater
crossings, or off-road in the mud you should be safe having them repacked when
you have the front brakes replaced (stick with OEM pads, non OEM pads usually
cause squeaking) You can check to see if your bearings need to be repacked
by: jacking the front wheel of the ground. Grab onto the top and bottom of
the wheel and tug back and forth. If you have excessive play you should
think about repacking the bearings. I currently have 64k on my OEM pads
and I have plenty of pad left (most folks get about 80-120k on there OEM pads;
Stick with OEM pads when you replace them); I had my bearings repacked at the dealer at
50k (I wanted to be safe)

I have not read many posts
on problems with the transmissions on the 98-03 Isuzu's. Some common
problems are that the tranny feels like it is slipping or it is shifting
funny. Many times this is due the a weak charging system (battery that is
dieing, or the alternator is on the way out) or the electrical connection to the tranny is loose and dirty. Also, others have noted that the funny feeling
is due to low or dirty fluid. Finally it can be caused by a faulty
tranny selector (the connection needs to be cleaned and put back together
with dielectric grease).

As for changing the tranny
fluid, some are for flushing and others think that dropping the pan is the best
way. If you only drop the pan you will only be removing about 40% of the
fluid, whereas the flush will pretty much replace all of the fluid. There
is a filter in the pan that should be replace at some point (your guess is as
good as mine, but some have mentioned a 60-90K interval to replace the filter,
but always change the fluid at least every 30K or sooner if you only do a
partial fluid swap). Fluid is cheap, but a new tranny costs about 3500
bucks, keep up on your tranny maintenance.

the problem (after replacing the mode sensor and the controller box under
the steering wheel) turned out to be a faulty (loose) transmission ground.
The computer cable plug was resolving the problem because there are two
separate pins for grounds on the car's computer plug-in which the computer
plug repaired by connecting the faulty ground to a good one.

If other Isuzu owners are getting a light show on the gear lights they
should consider that it might be a loose ground. Why this problem was worse
on the first start in the morning, I'm not sure, but if plugging in a
computer cable solves the problem, then check the ground wires.

How to on a
Isuzu Transmission Rebuild Hydra-Matic 4L30-E automatic transmission (17meg
file):

Might be due to, colder
weather, winter grade gas, dirty PCV valve, dirty EGR, dirty air filter, dirt
Mass air flow sensor (there is a spray you can buy to clean it out), dirty fuel injectors, low
tire pressure, larger then oem tire size, front and/or rear end needs to be aligned, dirty air filter, weak
battery or weak alternator. If you replace or clean any of the above
pieces make sure you disconnect the battery for at least 15 minutes so the ECU
will recalibrate itself.

After replacing the intake manifold gasket (there was no CEL on) fuel mileage had jumped 4mpg to 13mpg nyc driving!

(80% STREET 20% HEAVY NOT SMOOTH TRAFFIC EXPRESSWAY)

If you have over 100k on your O2 sensors think about swapping out the front 2 O2 sensors. Then think about swapping out the rear 2 O2

sensors (yes there is 4 of them). So have reported a 2MPG increase after doing it:

This is not normal. It
is due to the slip yolk needing to be greased. This is a common problem on
the 1998-2003 Rodeo’s and Amigo’s due to the 2 piece design. The 2004 have
a one piece design (wonder why?). Re-greasing the slip yolk, or drilling
and taping and inserting a grease zerk can fix the problem, for awhile at least,
until it needs to be greased again. Some dealers will do this under
warranty. I paid my dealer 50 bucks to do the job.

The number one thing you
need to replace while the timing belt is being replaced is the belt tensor and
the water pump. If either of these two go bad after the timing belt is
replace you will have to pay for the labor again. So if they (the tech)
are already in there have them replaced. It has been noted that the 3.2
and the 3.5L 98-04 engines are non-interference. One owner noted
that after he had his timing belt replaced at local shop, but when he drove it
home the engine ran very rough. He took it into the dealer, and then found
that one crank shaft was 180 degrees out on synch. They moved it
back 180, buttoned it up and it run perfect. I have read many posts of
owners changing their belts at the 100-120k mark (many comment that it still
looked like new; if you tow a lot I would change the belt out sooner). I
have heard very few people
that have snapped the belts on the +98 (I can only think of one).

They also no longer recommend a timing
belt interval of 75k miles for normal service. The new interval for normal is
100k for the 98 3.2l and 3.5l motors. They are "non-interference", so the
consequence for a belt breaking is that your vehicle no longer has engine power,
not that your engine powers through itself for lunch. Under severe service, 75k
is still the recommendation.

The guys at St Charles
Isuzu, have the best prices on OEM parts (free shipping). Mention you
heard about them on the web and they will give you an additional
discount. Make sure you tell them your heard about them from the
Ryan Endres' Isuzu FAQ page!

Autozone, offers free code
reading (the dealer will charge 60 bucks or more to read the codes. The
most common reason the CEL will come on is due to the gas cap is not tight
enough or something else emission related CODE P
440

You can buy a cheap code reader for 30-50
bucks (often on sale) at Harbor Freight link
to code reader . If you take it to the dealer or another mechanic your
going to pay 50-80 bucks for them to read your codes. Nice piece of
equipment to keep in your glove box or garage, so you can help others to
diagnose there their troubles.

If you have a 2000-2004
Isuzu, make sure you only use Denso K16PR-P11 spark plugs. The 2000-2004 engines have the GM/delphi "ion sensing" ignition
system where the spark plugs are used as a sensor (when they are not firing) to
measure the electrical resistance of the gasses in the combustion
chamber. Other plugs may cause the ECU
to register a code (misfire code: P1340). Also, it has been noted that
some 00 trucks came with champion plugs from the factory, which cause knocking,
due due to ion sense coils.

If you have 1998-1999,
the suggested plugs are NGK or Denso or Champion double platinum plugs.

It has been suggested that bosch platinum plugs commonly cause the CEL to come on in +98 Isuzu's.

To remove the coil over the
plug, remove the two screws, then unplug the connector (two wires going in) then
twist twist twist the coil (wrap fingers under the coil), and then twist and
pull up. If you only tug up it may not come off the plug. The key to
getting to the drivers side firewall plug is to use 2 short extensions, a
U-joint, and the long extension. Then by feeding the short extensions into
the plug hole one at a time followed by the u-joint and the long
extension. -OR- If the have the all three drivers side coils off
you can remove the rear drivers side plug using your socket and 2 3" extensions
(no u-joints). Also, if you remove all three coil packs you can get to the
rear plug with 2 three inch extension and NO u-joint. The easy way to get the plug back in the hole is to place a
piece of rubber tube (or a clear flexible tube) onto the end of the plug and
then put the assembly into the hole and gently screw it in to assure that you
are not cross threading the plugs. Make sure you place some di-electrical
grease on the top of the plug and some anti-seize on the treads.

Just passing along
some info that some might not be aware of. Don't try to remove plugs in an
Aluminum head while it's warm, the thermal expansion/contraction is different in
both materials. The plug will be expanded longer than the head, you can pull
threads out doing this. Always use Anti-Sieze on Aluminum heads. From the
Edelbrock site "When installing spark plugs into all Edelbrock aluminum cylinder
heads, be sure to use anti-seize thread lubricant at all times".

If you have a stuck coil
pack and twisting and pulling doesn't get the coil pack up try the following.
Use a thin piece of string and tie it in a loop. Place the loop around the
under the rubber part and then yank it up. I had to do this to the coil by
the master cylinder. OR -- pop off the coil from the tube (it is two
pieces) and then shoot some compressed air (~20lbs of pressure) down the tube
and it should pop right off!

More idea's for removing a
stuck coil tube: soak it down with WD40. There is suppose to be a special
pliers at Autozone that is suppose to help get it out.

I stumbled on a real easy way to remove the coil pack tube if the coil pack
comes off and the tube stays FIRMLY attached to the top of the plug. I had that
happen where I struggle to get several off and finally just had one that would
not release. I eventually tried hooking up my little compressor with one of
those little pointed adapters attached. Put that down into the center hole of
the plug and turned on the compressor...popped the tube right off the plug.
Might save someone having to replace a torn coil pack assembly since I
understand you can't just buy the tube.

Lessons learned:
1) If the boot has not come off before 70K miles, be ready for a challenge ahead
of you
2) Need 90+ psi to "pop" off the boot. For my Trooper, there is no way to get
the boot to pop off under 90 psi.
3) Dielectric grease at the end of the boot is an absolute must unless you enjoy
going through this pain again
4) Take your time with the pulling and yanking of the boot. The "string" or
electric wire in my case definitely gives you more leverage but don't be pulling
on it with all your force. I did the air, pull, air, more pulling, more air,
more yanking before it popped out.
5) And if it is really stubborn, liberally spray penetrating oil down the middle
and wait overnight
6) When putting coil back on, the manual says 35 ft/lbs torque on the two screws
but the screw would continue to turn...I don't think the manual is correct for
this
7) FINAL WORD of ADVICE: In my case, it may be worth the money to bring it to a
shop and have them do it. I've changed many spark plugs before on Toyota, Honda,
BMW, Lexus, Nissan, Ford and Subaru...and this one was a hummer (due to the pain
in the a** removal of the boot). If I knew it would be this painful, I would
have written a check. Think about it before you pull too hard and end up paying
$200/each for a new boot/coil assembly.

The manual states every
30k. The OEM part cost less then 15 bucks and is located under the
driver’s side door in the frame rail. There is one bolt that keeps the
filter in the bracket. Also, to lessen gas spillage remove the gas cap,
and you can pull the fuel pump fuse under the hood, start it up and run it until
it dies (note this may cause a CEL, but by disconnecting the battery,
recommended while removing the fuel filter, it will clear the codes). Once
you have removed the screw, move the hose clamps back and then you can remove
the rubber fuel lines by twisting (twist them for a bit, 20 seconds) and then
twist and pull them off. This is about a 30-45 DIY job.

Yes it is possible. I have
a soft top for the summer and a hardtop for the winter. I picked up a used
top from http://www.car-parts.com/ for
150 bucks. It took me a couple of hours the first time and now I can do
the switch in under an hour.

Tools needed... 1)12mm socket, ratchet, extension 2)Phillips head screwdriver
3)Panel popper or flat head screwdriver First step, remove hard top... 1)two
brackets at leading edge of top where it meets vehicle. Remove plastic cover,
remove four bolts. Remove two brackets. 2)Remove plastic trim between roll bar
and side window. Remove two bolts (one each side). 3)Remove covers above tail
lights- four phillips head screws (two each side). Remove two bolts and two nuts
(one each on each side) 4)Lift rear of top, unplug third brake light on left
side and washer fluid hose on right side. 5)Lift top off, store in a safe place.
Second step, remove rear window... 1)Remove rear windshield wiper, unlplug rear
defroster. 2)Remove plastic covers from bolt heads for rear window mount
brackets. Remove four bolts. Carefully detach weatherstripping from body. 3)Lift
Window from body, store in a safe place. Third step, install tailgate trim...
1)Carefully remove tailgate panel with panel popper or flat head screwdriver
(being careful not to scratch paint). 2)Install new weatherstripping/molding.
3)Reinstall rear cover panel. Make sure that the molding overlaps the panel
along the top edge of panel. 4)*OPTIONAL* reinstall the mounting bolts and
plastic covers so as not to lose them before hard top reinstallation. Fourth
step, install softtop... 1)Mount latches to body where leading edge of softtop
meets body (same place and mounting hardware as brackets that hold hard top to
body). 2)Install plastic trim/side window retainers. There will be two bolts,
one nut, and three phillips head screws per side. 3)Put soft top frame into
place. Line up two bolt holes per side. Bolt down with four (two each side) 12mm
head bolts. 4)Reinstall plastic trim that was between roll bar and rear side
windows. This will leave a clean, factory look. 5)Install canvas top if not
already installed. 6)Install rear window, zip into place. 7)Lock top into place
with latches at front top. 8)Install side windows by zipping into place. Tuck
bottom edge of side windows into place under the plastic trim/window retainers.
Fifth step, enjoy... 1)Remove side window curtains... reverse of installing.
2)Unzip rear window, lay window down leaving bar installed in place. 3)Unlatch
top... fold top back. 4)Climb in drivers seat... insert key into position, turn
clockwise, put into gear... DRIVE! Much better!

This
belt should be changed when medium to large cracks are visible in the grooves of
the belt (if you can see the white threads change it soon). Most
belts last about 30-45K. The OEM belt costs about 17 bucks from
St. Charles and
it took me and my father about 5 minutes to replace. The easiest way to
relieve tension from the belt tensor is to place a 1-2 foot pipe on the end of
your socket wrench (this will give you more torque).

The original symptom was a Check Engine Light with a #6
cylinder misfire code of P0306 when set at idle, or a random misfire P0300 when
set while driving. The #6 was obviously running rich as indicated by the the
spark plug. Eventually it became a hard start also. Here's the fix: The fuel
pressure regulator was leaking fuel down it's manifold pressure vacuum line. The
vacuum line attaches to the manifold right above the #6 port, that's why the
richness only in that cylinder.

Fuel pressure regulator part # for 1999 Rodeo: 8-17113-398-0

Cost $54 from St. Charles Auto, http://isuzu.stcharlesauto.com/ (my local
dealer's cost is $75. St. Charles Isuzu got it to me overnight for $65 which is
cheaper than the local dealer sells it for. Funny that I could get it quicker
and cheaper from Wisconsin than from the dealer down the street here in
California). I was in contact with a guy named Merlin. Great service.

See below for tips on changing this part in a 1999 V6 Rodeo M/T.

Read the whole thing prior to starting the job. I replaced the
regulator in about 40 minutes and I wasn't rushing. It seems to have completely
fixed these problems:

It is a diaphragm operated relief valve mounted on the fuel rail. Before
attempting to change the part, you need to ensure that you remove all fuel
pressure from the system. The following procedure from the service manual works
like a charm. I used this procedure and there was absolutely no fuel pressure in
the system. No fuel leakage at all when I removed the regulator. Fuel Pressure
Relief Procedure (works great).

1) Remove the fuel cap.

2)Remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood relay box.

3) Start the engine and allow it to stall.

4) Crank the engine for 30 seconds.

5) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Caution - to reduce the risk of fire and injury, it is necessary to release
fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components. Even after
relieving fuel system pressure, a small amount of fuel will likely be released
when servicing fuel line connections. Cover fuel line fittings with a shop towel
before disconnecting the fittings in order to absorb any fuel that may leak out.

Leave the fuel pump relay out and the battery disconnected while you change
the part.

Changing the part on a 1999 Rodeo is a bit different than the service manual
shows. The regulator does not screw into the fuel rail. It sits down into the
rail and is held in place by a snap ring.

Once you have removed the fuel line and the bracket that blocks access to the
regulator you will clearly see the regulator and the snap ring. Before you start
the job make sure that you have a pair of snap ring pliers that fit.

Use the new snap ring that comes with the part to ensure your tool will do
the job. You will also need to modify a 6mm allen wrench by cutting the short
end to within approximately 1/4" of the 90 degree bend. You will need it to
remove the rear most of the 2 bolts that mount the bracket that is over the
regulator. Ideally you should have two 6mm allen wrenches, an unmodified one for
the front bolt and the modified one for the back bolt.

For ease of removal of the snap ring that holds the regulator in place on the
fuel rail, it can be easily rotated once you have access to it by hand using the
fuel line nipple for leverage. This enables you to turn it to a position where
the snap ring is easily maneuvered out. Make sure that you remove all parts of
the old regulator from the fuel rail before attempting to install the new one.
Make sure that you remove the large blue o-ring, the wire mesh screen and the
small black o-ring from inside the fuel rail. Just make sure that you remove all
of the parts that you see on the new regulator.

Once you have it all back together, install the fuel pump relay and hook up
the negative battery cable. Also make sure that you put the fuel cap back on.
Start it up. Done.

To keep your fog lights on with high or low beams, is an
easy procedure.

To start with, pop off the carrier that holds the three
switches to the left of the steering wheel using a flathead on the bottom of the
carrier about a quarter inch off the two bottom corners and it will fall right
out.

From there, snip the Yellow/Red wire (#4, second from the
end) in the diagram.

Then ground the tail of the switch (the wire coming out of
the switch), I grounded mine to the cigarette lighter. The ground wire on the
cigarette lighter is the wire that attaches to the side of the back of the
lighter.

Put everything back together and now you will be able to run
your fogs on with high and low beams.

Rodeo: It's the tailgate switch. Open the door, take off the
2 Phillips head screws that hold the pin switch on (the one that controls the
light) and stick two or three washers behind the switch under each
screw.

Also check the hood pin: It's by the ABS
module over the pass side front fender well on the 1998+. The pin is covered by
a rubber boot.

It was the MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow sensor). It sits between the air filter
and the throttle valve.

I started out with these 2 trouble codes:P0102 MAF or VAF CKT Low InputP0103 MAF or VAF CKT High Input

I erased them several times and eventually would always get only the P0102.

I removed the MAF sensor (extremely easy) and gave it a good visual. Thing is
that it has these really tiny sensors suspended in the air that register air
flow in relation to throttle position which they feed back to the PCM (Power
Control Module or main computer) in order to control fuel flow. There's no way
to tell if they're bad when they all look intact.

I read the 5 volts to it from the PCM easily enough as per the shop manual, but
I didn't have a scanner so that I could read the frequency at specific RPMs. It
could have been the PCM, the MAF, the wiring in between, or maybe even the IMG's
as a remote possibility.

I couldn't determine 100% that it was the MAF on my own. I didn't want to take a
shot at it since the part isn't cheap and then if I had made the wrong choice
have to end up also buying a PCM which has to be programmed when installed, and
I also don't have tons of time to rip the vehicle wiring apart.

I brought it to a trusted local mechanic down the street who has the equipment
and the time, showed him what I had found, and he verified that it's the MAF
that's bad. I'll pick it up tomorrow morning and if everything is as it now
stands, that will be the last entry for this excursion.

'98 - '02 Isuzu Rodeo and Trooper (with factory keyless
entry) Instructions for programming 1. Get in car and make sure all doors are
unlocked. 2. Open driver's door and leave open. 3. Put key in ignition. 4. Turn
key to 'on position' (dash lights on, but do not start) and back to 'off
position' 3 times in 5 seconds or less. (you must turn the key very fast) 5.
Close and open driver's door 2 times in 5 seconds or less. 6. Turn key to 'on
position' and back to 'off position' 5 times in 5 seconds or less. (turn key
very fast) 7. Close and open driver's door the doors should lock and unlock
twice after this happens push the lock or unlock button on the remote, doors
will lock and unlock. Push the lock or unlock button a second time and doors
will lock and unlock again. You are finished! The above sequence erases all
previous codes and adds the new code as #1. If you are adding a second remote,
you should follow the same sequence with the exception of step 6; instead of
turning the key to the 'on position' and back to the 'off position' 5 times in 5
seconds or less, do it 3 times in 5 seconds or less and then continue to step 7.
***Remember to turn the key to the on and off position very fast.

Ive just registered just
to post this info. Ive searched high and low to find it, only to find many
others looking for the same info, without any answers. so, if youve been looking
here it is.

Programming the remote(s)

Controller for remote
keyless is located under the driver seat.

If you look under the
driver seat from the rear seat side you will see a

green button on the rear
of the controller.

With key in off position
have someone push and hold button. (a pencil is

useful here)

Turn key to on position

Security light at left of
instruments will come on steady

Push door latch button on
1st remote

Security light will click
and then go out

Turn key to off position
and then back to on

Security light at left of
instruments will come on steady again

Push door latch button on
2nd remote

Security light will click
and then go out

Turn key to off position
and then back to on

Security light at left of
instruments will come on steady and after few

seconds start to blink

Push rear hatch button on
1st remote

Security light will click
and then go out

Turn key to off position
and then back to on

Security light at left of
instruments will come on steady and after few

On the 1998-2004 (except Direct inject engines) the
transmission is a sealed unit and doesn't have a dipstick. To check it the
truck should be warmed up but not excessively hot. With the e-brake on an
the wheels blocked, start the engine, place your shifter in neutral, remove the
upper fill plug on the transmission and the fluid should just dribble
out.

Post 1:
There are 2 nuts on the bottom of the tranny pan. The lower one is the drain.
The one at the back of the pan in a recess is the filler. You need a hand pump
or something similar to fill it to overflowing, then top it off with the engine
running. Make sure you shift through the gears a couple of times when topping
off.

Post 2:
You'll find two hex head plugs facing downward on the main/big tranny pan. The
drain plug is the lower of the two that can be easily seen. The fill/level check
plug is not so obvious. It's in the rear, right corner of the main pan, at the
top of a semi-circle recess stamped deep into the pan. Both plugs are identical
is size & dimension. As with any auto tranny, you have to check ATF level on a
level surface, with the vehicle running & fully warmed up. ATF should just
dribble out of the fill hole- indicating adequate level. If you check it with
the truck off, ATF will POUR out of the hole since much of the ATF drains to the
pan when the engine is off. You have to use a pump to get new ATF up & into the
tranny.

First if you have a CEL, find out what the code is (Autozone
will read it for free). The next reason could be due to a bad battery
(Factory batteries are usually good for about 3-4 years) and/or an alternator
that is on the way out. If the battery is not properly charged or if the
alt is not putting out enough or to much current, the ECU will do some
pretty funky things (rough running engine and tranny that shifts hard or feels
like it is slipping). Also, if you recently replaced your plugs on your
2000-2004 with any other plugs then Denso K16PR-P11 it may cause the ECU to toss a code
and may not run very well (keep in mind that some 2000 came with Champion plugs
from the factory, but they may cause the engine to knock). The 2000-2004 engines have the GM/delphi "ion sensing" ignition
system where the spark plugs are used as a sensor (when they are not firing) to
measure the electrical resistance of the gasses in the combustion
chamber. Other plugs may cause the ECU
to register a code (misfire code: P1340).

Step by Step For Rodeo and Amigo:
1. Loosen the fill bolt (so it is easier to remove while the diffy cover is off) with a socket extension on your

socket driver.
2. Loosen/ remove the track bar left hand side (I remove the nut from the leftside).
3. Place the pan below the diffy, loosen all the bolts, and smack it a couple of times with a rubber mallet. Let

the oil start to drain a bit. (If you remove all the bolts at once you could end up taking an oil bath once your

smack it with the rubber hammer).
4. Continue to loosen the bolts and drain the oil.
5. Once you have most of the oil out remove the cover. Clean the mating surfaces with a putty knife (if this is

your first time since the truck was new you will find they used gasket maker stuff).
6. Replace the gasket with a paper gasket (if you want to use the make a gasket stuff that is fine but it will be

a mess the next time it comes to change) Fel-Pro # RDS 6629 (7 bucks for the paper gasket at most autoparts stores

). The benefit of the paper gasket is the next time you change it it will just pop right off and no or little

putty knife work is need. If you dab a little axle grease on the diffy housing it will help to keep the gasket

in place.
5. Replace the cover, tighten it down (use a crossing pattern while tightening).
6. Fill with diffy fluid (note if you need oil with limited slip additive), a cheap 5buck hand pump will help to

keep you clean (the hand pump screws onto the top of the oil bottle) and you can use it again and again over the

years.
7. Tighten up the track bar and replace the fill bolt and your ready to roll!

turn the key off and reconnect the battery cable. The lights on the CD changer will flash orange-green. As soon

as this stops, depress the Eject button. This may release (eject) the CDs.

or try this:

My CD Changer decided to keep all six of my CDs hostage and than gave me a rude "Err3". I read a post on here a

while back that says a fix is to whack it on the side immediately after hitting eject.
I'm not one to hit things like that, but in a moment of weakness - I did it.
Out they all came, and it works great now. I have tempted fate by putting them back.

or try this

Ok here's is what I do, make a fist and hit the side of the CD player just after hitting the eject button. I

would usually whack it with the side of the fist about 3 times and it should spit out the CD in question. I've

done this with my Amigo and the VX.

if that doesn't work try this

Take the CD player out of the dash. Carefully take the screws out of the lid. Once the lid is open and you can

see the mechanics of the CD player, locate the little blue eye in the area where the CD fits. It should be all

the way in next to the spindle.
Now, go in the house and get a bottle of non-ammonia windex, mix a few squirts of that and a few drops of rubbing

alcohol into a cup. Now you have "Professional" lens cleaner!
Get a Q-tip, B-tip, or whatever cotton swab your family uses. Dip the swab into the Windex/Alcohol mixture and

then wring the excess liquid off with your fingers. Just pinch the tip and squeeze all of the excess out. (You

don't want enough on the swab to drip and run down the side of the eye.) lightly twist the tip of the swab on

the eye (like you would if you were screwing it into your ear). Do not press hard as you can knock it out of

alignment. It will feel springy... that is ok, just don't bear down on it.
Now flip the swab over to the dry side and dry the eye using the same motion you used to clean it.
Put the lid back on, reinstall, and enjoy your tunes!

The number 1 thing to do is replace your shocks. It has made a huge difference.

How to fix that over-sensitive system by Jeff Rouse:

My brakes sucked. A crack in the road would set the ABS off. I did a few
things and it works way better now. After I took my Amigo back to the dealer
("everything checks out within manufacturers specs" ) for difficulty stopping
twice, I bled the brakes. This made a HUGE difference. Cost: $0

Then I had some Earl's Plumbing steel braded brake lines custom made (I added
2" in front and 4" in back for future mods) and replaced all five stock rubber
lines. HUGE, HUGE improvement. $150

Then I lifted my truck 3" and put rancho 9000's on. I don't know why but this
helped quite a bit too. Maybe from it not getting jarred so hard when I'd hit a
bump. Beats me, it helped a lot. $400 CP style lift.

I put 265/75/16 Futura Dakata's all around. Good improvement. $510 for five
tires - mounted, etc

Next I changed brake pads all around. Axxis metal master. Some improvement.
$70 *note, non-OEM pads have a tendency to squeal with used with OEM rotors.

Finally, I swapped the front rotors for Powerstop cross-drilled rotors. (I
tow a lot, slotted are better for most people). I left the rear stock - for now.
Great improvement in stopping, some improvement in ABS. $230 for the pair.

At first I thought my ABS didn't work anymore, because it didn't' come on for
at least six months. Then when driving in the snow I jammed the brakes on one
day and... it was still there working like ABS should. Since then it has only
come on a few times, and only under extreme braking on bumpy surfaces.

For my car '99 Passport 3.2 V6 4WD, the plug was 27mm and located directly above
the starter and accessible with a regular 6 point socket a 20" 1/2 drive
extension and a long breaker bar.
All the coolant poured right out, with the front end of the car on stands.

So we get down there, look at it and determine what to do. * Support
drivetrain on the t-case skid plate with jack. * Unbolt twisted, bent
t-case/tranny crossmember. * Remove brake/fuel line heat shield protecting said
lines from the crossmember. * Unbolt tranny support from crossmember and move
crossmember out of the way. * Remove tranny support from the tranny. * Drain
flid from tranny pan (2 plugs, one low, one high[allen head]). * Once fluid has
drained, unbolt the pan from the tranny and set aside. * Unbolt filter from the
tranny and discard. * Remove gasket material left on the tranny and pan. * Clean
gasket mounting etc with a solvent on tranny and pan. * Remove magnet from
bottom of pan and clean all metal dust remnants from magnet, and wipe out pan
after all fluid has been drained.

[rant on]Since some BRAINIAC at GM/Isuzu designed the 4L30E WITHOUT a
dipstick or any other way to fill the fluid, you get to take a bath in Mercron,
no two ways around it... :mad: Remember the allen head plug I referenced, well
that is the overflow aka FILL plug too!!! So, since the overflow hole parallel
to the ground, how do you suppose you place fluid vertically into a pan that
holds the fluid, maybe 3" below that hole? WTF, some people shouldn't live, or
breed as the case might be.[/rant]

* Install new filter on the tranny, round hole down. * Fill up the pan with
6-7 pints of fluid (nearly to the overflow line. * With two people, lift up full
pan to the tranny, and stick 2 bolts in opposing corner with each person (all 4
corners are bolted) * Complete the installation of the tranny pan, and reverse
process for the crossmember, support, and jack.

What did the filter look like after 85K and yearly flushes on a 99?

It was full of contaminants... metal sludge (akin to a
aluminum paste).No chunks of metal, just sludge, again with the paste...
thick and gooey, like aluminum colored mud.

I've had a problem with hard shifting on-and-off for over a
year. It usually happens only in the morning, and is always after the dash light
fails to indicate that the truck is in drive. I had the codes read at a dealer
last June, and got back a P0705 code. Is this the range sensor malfunction? If
so, any recommendations on what needs to be done and where to get it looked at?

I had the same problem with my 99 Passport. I was able to
remove my range sensor, take it apart and clean the contacts inside. I remember
it was quite dirty and greasy inside. I think they used too much dielectric
grease in it, but the contacts were definitely dirty so I cleaned them
reassembled it and I have never had the problem come back. The unit is located
on the side of the transmission (drivers side) just forward of center. It's been
well over a year since I fixed it, but if I remember right to remove it there
was a small metal shield that pops off. Then I had to remove 2 bolts and 1 nut
that holds the shifter arm and unplug the wire harness (the wire harness was a
little difficult to unplug due to the tight space) and the unit will just slide
right out. You will need a torx driver to take apart the unit. I wiped most of
the grease out of mine; I left some of the grease there so things will slide
properly and to keep moisture out. Depending on how dirty the contacts are you
can clean them with a pencil eraser or a very, very fine sand paper. Don't spend
the 90+ dollars for a new one this is a fairly easy fix, once you see the inside
you won't think it's worth the price tag! It should take you about 45-60 min to
repair.

Intermittent wiper function has failed, (it begins to
sweep, and stops about 1/4 of the way through the cycle, AND wipers stop in
position when turned off. (they do not return to a home position).

It stops working due to a bad relay chip on a circuit board
(I have this same problem- Ryan). You can replace the whole board for 200
bucks or you can replace the one chip (no clue as to who to buy it from).
Here are a couple of write ups and picture of the board:

You can buy the bad chip here:

I bought mine from
Mouser Electronics Phone 800-346-6873 for $5.10 each. Apparently they stock the
original Fujitsu ones now.

Part number
817-FTR-P1CN012N.

The faulty part was the alarm control unit. It controls the
front and rear wipers as well as part of the alarm system.

The part was number is 8-97240-466-0 its made by Denso for Isuzu.
Cost $ 210.11 from Austin Isuzu. Kind of expensive, but I did save on their
labor charges.

It is located behind the dash under the right hand vent. To access it you should
remove the glove box (1 screw on each hinge) There is another black control unit
below the light grey (or green) box you are replacing. This black box is held in by 2
screws. I removed this box (also part of the alarm) There was no need to
disconnect the wire going to it (Black box), there was plenty of slack.

Remove the one screw securing the alarm control unit and slide the unit down and
out. there are two clip in plugs that connect it to the wiring harness. Plug
these into the new part and test your wipers before completing the installation.
Be careful not to drop any of the screws you remove, because if you have to pull
the kick panel off, it can be tough getting the grommet back together through
the hole in the carpet.

I have pictures to show the placement of the part, but once you have the new
part in your hand and the glove box off, it is pretty easy to spot looking up
and to the right of the vehicle from the passenger side footwell.

I had trouble removing the two screws that mounted the black box below
the alarm box. One of them was stuck tight. I was able to remove the
black box from the metal bracket by releasing three clips; two on the
driver's side and one on the aft side. After that it was fairly simple
to get the alarm box out.
A plunger style solder sucker was essential to removing the old relay
from the alarm board.

Couple of steps. 1. Clean the battery posts 2. clean the
ground points to the body 3.
Check The Ground At The Alternator Bracket

4. Have
the battery load tested. 5. have the alt checked out

"I
have A 2000 Isuzu Rodeo Automatic And Every So Often I Put My Truck In The Park
Gear It Shuts Off "

Possible solution: "break in one or more wires
drivers side of vehicle in the engine harness
open the harness between the intake and PCM find
the two red/white wires pull on them one at a
time give it a good tug one or both of them should break if not tug on every one
one at a time until you find the bad wire they
tend to break inside of the insulation makes it a real PIA to find let me know
what you find "

Thanks... I searched car-parts.com and found a used
alternator ($40 buck) plus $75.00 in labor to get it put on over the weekend.
The flickering is gone for good I hope
. Took the old one back to Oreilly's for a refund totaling $115.00. So i broke
even there, I also am waiting to hear back form the district manager regarding
my labor charge, he reimburst me the last time I took the first one that they
sold me off. I spoke with the office manager this morning he said the alt.
tested good so he could not approve the labor charge, but he will talk with the
district manager when he stops by today. I told him that it may be testing good,
but it's not good my truck. The voltage on my truck was eating that alt.
alive....

"My wife said that her 1999 Trooper
stalled on the highway while moving slowly in traffic. She started it back up
and it stalled again while coming to a stop sign. Same thing, started right back
up. This has happened about 6 times over the last 24 hours. I took it to
AutoZone for a free OBD check hoping that a fault code might have been stored.
Sure enough, it returned a P0101. "

"This is just a follow up. I replaced
the mass air flow sensor and the problem has gone away. I purchased the part
online

There is a ton of opinions on Sea Foam. Many Isuzu
owners like to use it a couple times a year to help clean up the piston rings.
But when the heck do you use it? I personally use it 20 minutes before I
change my oil (dump in 1/2 bottle take a 20 minute drive, drain oil asap). PLEASE keep in-mind if you have a high mileage engine there is a
remote possibility that the sea foam will loosen up a ton of crud that will plug
some of the small oil pathways. Please use it at your own risk.

Found the "SEA FOAM" info on this site. I had all but given
up on the oil consumption problem on my 2000 Trooper 3.5. Dumped a bottle of the
product in my crank case. Drove 100 miles and did my usual synthetic oil change
with 10W 30. The oil when drained with the SEA FOAM additive looked and had the
consistency of black gasoline. Four hundred miles later and the oil level has
not dropped. By now I would be down 1/2 Qt. The Trooper runs smoother, quieter,
and seems to have more power. I will follow up with more info at the 800 mile
mark. I am impressed. Regards, Jethro

64. power steering pump flush.
Well, it isn't a flush, more of a replace about a 1/3 of the fluid.
1. consult your manual for the right type of fluid to use (+98 Isuzu use
tranny fluid, but still look at your manual)
2. Note the fluid level or bust out your sharpie and mark the level.
Pull the lower hose from the power steering reservoir. Put something
under it to catch the old fluid.
3. Filler back up.
4. Jack up the front of the truck so both of the wheels are off the
ground (there is a spot on the front skid plate to do this on the Rodeo).
6. Start her up. Then move the steering wheel from bump stop to bump
stop like 4 times. This will help to get the air out. Top off the fluid
if necessary (I have never had to do it). Now if you want to you can at
this point take if for a 5 minute spin to mix up the fluid and then drain
it again and fill it again; in order to get a higher percentage of new
fluid into the system.
7. Clean up, your done.
I do this once a year. I figure a little clean fluid to the system every
year will help towards a long life and will help to lower the amount of
water that could be in the system. Total time: 15-20 minutes. Cost: 2-3
bucks for the fluid (I recommend you toss the left over tranny fluid in
the bottle (I know it is a waste) since after you open it, it can pick up
water sitting on the shelf.

1. Remove the radiator cap.
2. Loosen the drain cog/wing thing on the lower drivers side of the radiator.
3. Catch the fluid.
4. Dump in a bottle of flush stuff, then top of with your garden hose (or DI water).
5. Follow the directions on the flush bottle, which is something like run the truck for 15 minutes, with the heater on high blowing,

turn off, drain and do it 2 more times.
6. Pull the reserve tank and empty that. The last time I did this I cleaned out the inside with a rag and soapy water

since there was some black gunky build up in it.
7. reinstall tank.
8. Top off radiator with a 50-50 mix (mix with DI water). Add to reserve tank. Drive it a couple days then check your

reserve tank and test your antifreeze concentration.
I do mine yearly. If you take it to a shop they will hook it up to a machine to flush out the entire system, but I

When the
DBW first started going,
It would idle high as if the gas pedal was pressed down slightly, it started
idling high that when in gear it was hard to keep it stopped. The the check
engine light came on and started flashing on and off, not like a misfire, slower
than that. Then the Reduced Power light came on. It had very little acceleration
with a delay from when it was stopped till it started moving. acceleration was
similar to the WINTER mode but through all gears. The dealership had to replace
the throttle body ($600), throttle body gasket ($7) and the pedal sensor ($150)
and like $300 in labor. I did manually actuate the throttle one time so that
could have been related. I took the old throttle body apart and everything
looked alright, but there was a lot of gears and sensors in it.

Thanks to those of you who responded to my query about my
99 Trooper which wouldn't go into 4WD while the engine was running, but would
occasionally come up in 4WD if the SOTF button was pushed before starting the
truck. I'm going to go through how we found the problem because sure as heck
someone else is going to run into this problem someday. The hints as to the
existence of the SOTF vacuum switch mechanism and attendant website URLs proved
invaluable. A friend with vast experience trouble-shooting such problems and I
used his MightyVac to isolate the problem in one of the two vacuum switches on
the SOTF assembly on the front axle. In short, the switch was not pulling enough
air to coax the system into 4WD. We carefully tried to bring the switch back to
spec (after pulling the assembly off the truck.) This requires first removing a
small shield (Two 14mm bolts.) You then can use a 10mm socket to remove the
plate holding the two vacuum switches (looks just like top picture in URL
mentioned on PlanetIsuzu.) It took a while to trace the hoses attached to
understand the logic of how the SOTF system works. We pulled the suspect switch
off the plate (Phillips screw at back of plate.) Using the MightyVac and a
couple wires, we used the truck's battery to actuate the solenoid with vacuum on
it to see if it passed air properly. When it didn't we knew we were close to the
bad part. Another check on that theory was to start the truck and use the
MightyVac (a hand-held unit with a gauge on it and a handle that you squeeze to
pull air out of hoses, bleed brake systems, etc. Gotta get one!) to put a vacuum
on the hose that leads from the the suspect vacuum switch to the diaphram on the
axle. Instant 4WD! Dealers being closed on Saturday, we tried a NAPA and another
local auto store but no luck on the Denso part. Part #8-97101858-1 is what I
read on the part. There's another number I took to be a manufacturer's number:
08480U-2201. It was bit smudgy but those are close. It took some judicious use
of very small wire and eventually a good hosing with carb cleaner, but we got
the part's logic to work with the good ol' MightyVac and the actuation of the
switch via truck battery. Its resistance also measured at the noted 42 ohms (by
PlanetIsuzu.com), so we knew that it was ok electrically. We put it all back
together and my TOD switch now works like a champ, every time. Of course, my
dealer said this would be a $600 repair requiring replacement of the ECU, so you
know I'm glad that with my friend Nick's help, we sorted this in a few hours in
my driveway. The moral to this story, btw, is to exercise that TOD switch
frequently to keep those solenoids from getting cruddy. I tend to only use 4WD
when I 'need' it and thus it was the 4WD solenoid that crudded up on me.

If you hear a squeaking sound at startup when it is
below freezing outside, that lasts for 1-3 minutes your idler pulley on the
S-belt could be on its way out. If it seizes it will shread the belt or
worst case it will rip itself out of the block taking part of the block with it.

Well I was the typical moron...allowing a noticeable squeal/grinding sound
exist for too long before I check it out. It was the drive belt ilder pulley
right at the top of the block. The bearing had started to go out...then it
totally disintegrated. When this happen the drive belt slipped off and luckily
stayed in the engine compartment until I could stop.

The repair was much simpler than I had thought. Basically I went and bought a
new idler pulley for the ribbed drive belt from Napa (~$14 or so). When you
remove the old pulley be sure to retain the small bushing that fits between the
pulley and the block mount. I had first not found this bushing because it had
almost welded itself to the inner race of the destroyed bearing. It was easy to
pop out and I had the new pulley in place ease.

Then the tough thing was figuring out how the dang serpentine drive belt
snakes through the various components. I checked the Gates web site and they had
a diagram that at first doesn't appear to correspond to the Rodeo, but it
actually does...just a bit out of scale.

My last hurdle was moving the tensioner so that I could get the belt on
everything. Two tricks..1) use a socket wrench on the 14mm nut in the center of
the tensioner pulley and both try to tighten it more while at the same time
pushing str8 down on the wrench. This moved the tensioner down easily and 2) put
the belt onto the tensioner pulley last (since it doesn't have an edge it will
slip on quick).

I have a power sunroof on a 2000 Rodeo that is not closing completely. It
appears that one side is about 1/4 inch tweaked backward, so it doesn't clear
the back corner. I'm getting a lot of whistling at speeds over 35mph and I'm
very concerned with leaking.

Well I finally solved my problems. It appears that a TORX screw which holds a
guide, had losend and caused the upper arm of the sunroof to come out of track.
I have circled the part that was lose in red in the first photo (the torx screw,
not the phillips screw--both are found in the circle). When you press the
sunroof switch to go back, the piece in the red circle should go down into the
small gap (blue circle) and slide back. If it does not, you should check that
your tracks are properly aligned. In the second photo observe the brown circle
with the line...this is where it should be when the sunroof is in the "closed"
position. If it's not, there is an adjustment (green circle, first photo) you
can press down on and slide the upper arm to the correct position. Now check to
see if the guide properly goes into the correct gap as you "open" the sunroof.
IF IT DOES NOT, DO NOT LET IT CONTINUE TO OPEN TO THE FULL POSITION OR YOU WILL
HAVE TO RE-ADJUST THE UPPER ARM AGAIN. So make sure your upper arm is in the
correct position, then losen the torx screw (in red circle) and adjust the guide
so it will fall into the gap when the sunroof is opened. Then tighten the screw
firmly. Test by opening and closing. Note that as you are testing the tracks
without the sunroof, they may come out of their guides again. This is because
the sunroof helps keep the upper arms in the correct position. Once your sure
you have everything in place, set the sunroof to the "closed" position not
moonroof. And put the glass back in place. Do not force it! If it doesn't seem
to be going down into place, you may need to get inside your vehicle and gently
push outward on the track arms. Lightly screw the glass screws back into place.
Adjust the flush-ness and then tighten the screws completely.

anyway my V6 rodeo keeps boiling over and/or runs hot. there is no coolant
leaking at all and I flushed the radiator and removed the thermostat. the
coolant was nice and green when I drained the radiator and it flushed nicely. it
looks as though there is coolant flow when i take off the cap. does this water
pump have a weep hole that indicates a failure? as I said, no leakage. I was
thinking that maybe the flow i saw was just hot water expanding and displacing
cooler water??
seems like a ghost in the machine. all mechanics out here are criminals, so I'd
like to fix 'er myself. any thoughts? any tips on pulling off that water
pump?...it looks tricky.

so after flushing out the entire cooling system and putting in a new t-stat
I'm
still having this same issue...the engine temp gets hot when at idle or at a
stoplight and yet the heat turns ice cold till the truck gets moving again

I had this problem with my '96 Passport - it would run cool most of the time,
but then if I went up a hill, or ran on the highway it would overheat. If yours
does this then the problem is capacity - that means your radiator is clogged,
probably by hard deposits that can't be flushed. I tried flushing mine in both
directions with heavy duty flush and it didn't do a thing. I replaced the water
pump, thermostat, fan clutch, and all hoses. Still overheated. Then I replaced
the radiator, and that solved the problem. At least now everything is new...

Okay, so I'm driving home last night,
and I went to make a left turn, and the directional started flashing, and then
it just went on steady. It only does it when the parking lights or headlights
are on. but when the lights are off, and I put the left directional on, the gear
selector light (in between the tach and speedo) flashes dim and bright with the
flasher. Its the left directional only, the right is fine. Anyone have any
ideas? Do these have a normal flasher? Or is it like a module? Sorry, its on a
2001 Honda Passport EX-L 4x4. Any help/insight will be greatly appreciated. I
really don't want to drive back out to school with it like that.

Do you have trailer wiring attached? In
my experience, the number one cause for weird directional problems is a short in
the trailer wiring (usually just all gummed up with something and making a
connection it shouldn't be). If you have a trailer harness in the back, unplug
it and see what happens...

I have recently been
experiencing an issue on my 2000 Honda Passport, and I was hoping someone here
may be able to provide some assistance.

The Brake warning indicator has recently been coming on. The indicator is not on
all the time, but seems to be illuminated when the outside temperature is low.
For example, in the mornings when I leave for work and it is cool outside the
light is usually on, but goes off after 10 - 15 miles. On the drive home from
work when it is warmer, the the light does not normally come on. I'm not sure if
this has just been a coincidence up to this point, but it has been fairly
consistent.

this is a classic low on brake fluid
issue. I have had many types of foreign cars that did this. Usually doesn't mean
that the brake fluid is low, it is, but the brake pads are in need of
replacement. The piston is out more because of low pad depth, thus more fluid is
in the lines and the piston chamber. this has robbed your brake fluid canister
of fluid close to the low sensor point.

My key is stuck in the ignition. The car turns on, i just cannot pull out the
key. I've had to park my car at work with key still stuck in the ignition until
I can get this matter resolved.

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions. Don't know what the cause was but
she came in from work one day this week and she felt it go into the lock
position and the key came out. Guess this is a
bit of luck but since I didn't get to try any of your suggestions while it was
still messed up I am still at at a loss and will wait for the next round

One other possibility submitted via email:
This is on my 2001 Rodeo. Remove the plastic cover which is just under the
ignition switch, seems like I also had to remove the bolts that hold the
steering column in place so I could lower the whole assembly as well. All I
remember is that there was a screw that had loosened and fell out of a part that
is connected to the ignition switch.

Am having a similar clunking under my feet when cornering over light bumps at
the moment. Been going crazy trying to nail it for weeks. But nailed it
yesterday. Turned out to be a body mount. Took the bolt and rubber block out and
the clunk has gone. Going to replace it soon. Didn't show any wear, but must
have so that there was a little slap when the chassis flexed.

I own a 2002 Trooper with 20K miles on it. I run 5W30 Mobil1
and change oil/filter every 3K miles. Depending upon my driving habits during
the 3K miles, I will consume anywhere between 3/4 and 1 Quart of Mobil 1.
Admittedly, that isn't horrible, but it isn't "perfect" either. My question is:
Is there a way for me to confirm if my specific engine has the new piston
redesign? Is it possible for me to take the engine serial number and determine
this with Isuzu?

yes just check the pcv valve it should be a screw in style,
instead of the push in , type if so, you no doubt have the new eng

Standing at the front of the vehicle and staring at the engine. The closest
cylinder on the passenger side is #1. Still on the passenger side the middle one
is #3 and the back one is #5. On the driver's side the front to back numbering
is 2,4 and 6.

For the oxygen sensors on an AT vehicle (i.e. two cats) the one before the cat
on the passenger side is Bank1/Sensor1. The one after the cat on the passenger
side is Bank1/Sensor2. On the drivers side, the one before the cat is
Bank2/Sensor1 and the one after is Bank2/Sensor2.

For the oxygen sensors on a manual transmission (i.e. one cat), the first one on
the exhaust of the passenger side is Bank1/Sensor1. The first one on the drivers
side exhaust is Bank2/Sensor1. After the two pipes join and before the cat is
Bank1/Sensor2. The one after the cat is Bank1/Sensor3.

I have a 1999 Trooper I bought used and had it
probably for 1 month and the CEL came on and I bought an OBD II scanner and the
codes were PO101, PO137, PO157, PO1171. The scanner told me that the PO137 and
PO157 were the 2 rear O2 sensors (Bank1 sensor 2) and (Bank 2 sensor 2) were
reading a low voltage. So I started with the PO101 code ,which by reading some
of your faq page that it was probably the MAF ( Mass Air Flow Sensor). I
removed MAF from the intake and air filter duct assembly and cleaned it with
carb cleaner thoroughly and then cleaned the intake port with a small wire brush
and carb cleaner and replaced the air filter even though it looked good while I
had the air duct apart just for good measure. I drove the vehicle and the PO101
code never reappeared but the PO137, PO157 and P1171 codes still came back with
the constant CEL. So I knew from the OBD scanner that the O2 sensors werent bad
they were just reading a low voltage. So I read on the faq page or or another
forum that the gas cap sometimes causes the engine to more or less vapor lock
if it was on too tight. I ran a can of injector cleaner and with a full tank
of gas and left the fuel cap loose. I drove for 80 mile that day and the CEL
never came back on at all since then. A truck load of worries mainly because of
a gas cap!

Work the button with your finger while you look/listen/feel for a *clicking*
under the steering column. There is a cable that runs from the button, to the
steering column/ignition area. If the cable binds up on anything (fairly
common), it wont have full range of motion to open the safety interlock.
Wiggling, re-positioning the cable should fix it. Sometimes moving the steering
wheel while you push the trigger helps too.

I did find the following procedure in the Owners Manual that describes what to
do for this problem.

The listed sequence is:
1. fully apply the parking brake
2. turn the key switch to the “ACC” position
3. move the shift lever from the “P” to the “N” position, depress the brake
pedal, and start the engine again.
4. operate the shift lever. Have the transmission checked by your Isuzu Dealer as soon
as possible.

Facing the engine, it's threaded/inserted into the right side valve cover. It's
got about a 3/8" rubber (vac) line attached. You may need to pull off the black
plastic intake cover first. Another very easy to service item.

I've had a problem with my steering shaking from 60mph to
about 68mph for years now. I had all of my tires balanced, no luck. Repacked my
bearings at 30,000 miles and no luck. Bought new tires, had them balanced and an
alignment, no luck. Had the dealer repack my bearings, no luck. I repacked the
bearings one more time (100k miles) and cranked down on them a little more than
normal and it still shook. I had come to wits end and was about to have the
dealer completely go over the front end and replace whatever they thought was
causing it (we all know dealers too $$$$) when I decided to search this board
once more. I came across a post that mentioned the
Hunter GSP9700 and Road
Force balancing. I checked it out and found a Ford dealer (better than nothing)
that was right down the road. I made an appointment.

First off, I was amazed at how nice the Ford dealers service guys were (Rolling
Hills Ford, Clermont, FL) with me and my Isuzu. So I left my truck and went and
ran some errands. When I came back, the service guy handed me a stack of papers
and started explaining what the machine found out. He said I had some really bad
balance issues (I was hoping he meant my truck). The sheets showed me what my
runout & Road Force was before and after the procedure. Anything under 11lbs of
Road Force acceptable. One tire before the procedure was at 55lbs and one was at
34lbs. After the procedure, all of them were below 5lbs.

What a difference this has made in the handling and ride of the truck. I highly
recommend this to anyone with a shimmy or shake they can't get rid of. My truck
rides like brand new.

for my 1999 Isuzu Amigo V6 2WD there is no
exhaust cutting or engine bolt removal.

The starter is up kind of above the oil pan. There was a small
bracket or splash guard in the way of the bolts that unbolted with
two 10mm bolts and then two 14mm bolts for the starter. I used an
extension and 3/8" drive sockets. The bolts came out easily (some
places online say to use 1/2" drive hardware, these are also the
places that say you have to cut the exhaust pipe). Work the starter
out towards the front of the car, it won't come out going straight
down, and undo the two cables (the negative snaps out, the positive
needs a 12mm wrench). Connect new starter and work it back into
place and bolt it back in. Start your car with one turn of the key.
One of the easiest of the many Isuzu repairs I have done.

I say all this because all the advice onine makes this sound like a
huge job to do, and I want people who are searching the internet to
find one person who says it is not that difficult ... at least for
my particular model. I don't know if the difference is just my year
or everyone else has 4WD or if I'm more than a little lucky, because
in most other respects the Amigo is just a longer Rodeo with few
other differences. Either way before you go to the mechanic because
you don't want to cut exhaust pipes go ahead and crawl under the car
and check it out, it may not be too hard of a job. It may be of help
to go ahead and buy the replacement starter from Autozone so you can
tell what you are looking for and how it bolts in there. You can
always return it.