I have no idea what you would need besides a tranny lift and a wrench. I said that because it would be a tight squeeze to work behind the engine like that. If your thinking about taking it to a shop, might as well buy a lift that will pay for itself over and over.

Depending on how hard you want to work.I've never done this because I've never had to pull a transmission by itself..But,I will shed some light on the subject since I've seen it done.Okay..You can follow the steps something like the order that I post them in,if you want,or you can do it your way.The way that I'm going to post the is the way that I would do it.

1) Remove driveshaft from the transmission and the rear differential.
2) Loosen and remove the speedometer cable
3) Remove the transmission cooling line(s),if equipped.
4) Loosen and remove the bolts supporting the the flywheel inspection lid.
5) Remove all of the bolts connecting the transmission bellhousing to the engine.
6) Place transmission jack under the transmission and jack it up until it reaches the transmission firmly.
7) Loosen and remove the transmission mount.
8) Slide the tranmission back towards the rear of the car.There should be enough room to do so.
9) Lower the jack and you're finished.

That should be it.I might've left out some steps,so anyone,feel free to add-on or remove .You don't have to have a transmission jack,as a regular floor jack can be used if you're careful.I believe that should do it.Good luck!

I had to do that once, but it was in a truck.......
your gonna need to get the car high enough off the ground that you'll be able to pull the tranny out,and be able to work underneath the car, maybe on or off ( or with or without ) a jack......
i used my cherry picker, through the cab, into the trans hole, chained around the tranny, unbolted the drive shaft, swing it out of the way. unbolt the bellhousing from the block, you might not be able to seperate bellhousing from block, you might have to unbolt tranny from bellhousing due to clearance issue....... (did i say i haven't done this on a camaro and i don't do chevy's ?) Carefully wiggle that sucker back of the input shaft, and gently lower it to the ground...... if all your doing is replacing the clutch, you won't need to pull it out from under the car...... .
its not a bad idea to have a bud around for "inspiration"

i guess everyone has a different way of doing things. I would change a few steps in nightrains list,which looked pretty good not to have ever pulled one out of a camaro.

Get the car high enough to have room to work ,and drag the trans out from under it.Be sure and use good stands for safety.

Take out drive line,plug rear of trans with trans plug or an old yolk.

put your jack under the trans,and secure it.then raise just enough to remove trans. mount and the crossmember.then lower it enough to get to the bolts on top of the trans.I use a 9/16 wobble socket and a long extenshion (26--30in)There are 2 bolts on top,then about 1/3 of the way down the sides is a bolt on each side,then further down each side are 2 more on each side, I leave one in for now.
un hook the shifter,the speedo cable,overdrive wireing,and vac hose if used.Then I put a jack under the oil pan (padded)to support the eng.So there is no damage to other componets,(remove the dist cap I useraly do this before jacking up the car.)
Let every thing down as far as you can (be reasonable)Then unhook the trans cooler lines,They will drip some fluid(messy).Remove the the flywheel cover and three bolts from the flywheel, now remove the last bolt holding the trans. Shake the trans to break it loose ,move it back a little and lower to the floor.
you will probably have to remove the dip stick to get out from under the car.(another mess)

This is a good time to check the flywheel for any damage or wear.
Also check the u joints. Remember wear safety glasses.
((((((((((hope this helps))))))) Good luck;

Troy Curt has it right. I start out by puting a big pan under the tranny and poping the pan the night before doing the job. This way, I catch most of the fluid before the floor, which is always a fluid magnate on every tranny job I do. First thing I do next day, is remove drip pan and put the oil pan back on with four bolts.

I was surprised to not see posts from the trans men out there. It's been a long time, but here goes. MAke sure that you have clearance for the engine to lean back some. May require removal of the dist. cap on that car.
Remove Drive shaft, then shifter, cooler lines, cables and wires.
at that point, remove the flywheel cover and convertor to flywheel bolts. With everything disconnected, now place the jack under the trans and remove the mount and crossmember bolts, and crossmember. With the crossmember out of the way, lower the trans far enough to remove the bell housing bolts. With a mild shake of the trans, it should come loose from the engine and be lowered down.

That is the proceedure that I used thousands of times. I could even do it in my sleep, as I had to right after each of my kids were born. It was the only time I got any sleep.

Don't take the bellhousing bolts out without the jack under the trans and the crossmember removed. To keep things as clean as possible, have some extra fittings to attach to the cooler line fittings on both the lines and trans. This will keep some of the driping to a minimum. Also try to have an extra yoke for the trans to plug that end and reduce the mess.

Make sure that you have the vehicle high enough to be able to get the trans out from under it. Done that, Not Fun
Good Luck.

This is pretty much covered as far as info, so I'll give you a little tool tip. If you find that you need to use a universal on your extension to get the top bell bolts, give it a couple wraps of black tape. This is what I refer to as the "Viagra" trick, it keeps the universal/socket from being limp and flopping everywhere except where you want it. Unless of course you have a set of wobble sockets.

I've done it a few times in the last few years. It's not my favourite thing to do, but it's not too bad. I just jacked the car up, and spent a few hours under it.
Here's my tip that could save you a lot of hassle (I learned this the hard way):

-unbolt the engine mounts! This allows you to dramatically change the engine/transmission angle. This helped me a lot when trying to get to the bellhousing bolts! With the transmission crossmember removed, and the engine mounts unbolted, it's possible to make quite a bit of space between the bellhousing and firewall. This is really helpful for my G body, and it'll probably help on your camaro too. Good luck,
dh

I just thought I'd better add a small tip to go with my last post. With the engine and transmission free to pivot on the engine mounts (the tail of the transmission will be able to point downwards), it's easiest to put a jack under the transmission so you can change the angle when needed. I will then also put a jack under the engine when the two become separated. When it comes time to join them again, you'll have to fiddle with the two jacks to get them at the same angle and elevation. It's tedious and frusterating, but trying to do it without two jacks is even worse.
Also, when you tilt the transmission tail downwards, get ready to lose all the oil on the floor.

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