Why go: The big tureens of long-simmered beef soup, the so-called Vietnamese penicillin, with its fragrant aromatics and subtle spices. At its best, the broth here is richer, darker, and more full-bodied than that found at other pho parlors.

What to get: Numbers 3 and 5, which include a variety of meats—beef tendon, fatty brisket—that add yet more richness to an already full-bodied soup; mango bubble tea.

Best for: A quick eat-in pick-me-up or a simple carryout meal with the power to revive the tired.

Insider tip: Though Westerners are not inclined to eat pho in the morning the way Vietnamese do, the broth is at its best early in the day; it pays to come early (Pho 88 opens at 10) and stash your takeout order in the fridge for later.