Woodinville spring releases: part the first

I’m a little hesitant to call this “part one” but, realistically, there are a whole bunch of wineries in Woodinville, plenty of wines left to be released, and the first official day of spring was only this past Saturday…I take it on faith that I’ll be up that way again the next time a Saturday comes ’round that is neither Taste Washington weekend or Holy.
This being my first spring in Seattle, it’s also my first experience with the local version of spring release parties. Emphasis on the “party” part, I discovered, at least at a lot of wineries. If your object is to have a great time drinking wine, perfect. If your object is to taste new wines that might not all be available for tasting all at the same time and, often, to avoid tasting fees, the actual “tasting” part ends up being a bit more difficult. Darkened back rooms very full with very happy people and hefty music aren’t exactly ideal environs for sensory analysis. Ergo, bear with me if my notes are a little off or, rather, off-color when I can’t find a white surface or adequate lighting without violating state law (oh my!) and trying to venture outdoors with my glass.

First stop: DiStephano’s barrel tasting in the cellar

The tasting room staff was pouring DiStephano’ usual tasting menu, I stayed in the “cellar” with Mr. Mark Newton as he offered barrel samples and information on three sequential years of cabernet sauvignon: finished, in-progress, and infantine. First, the current release:

2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – slightly brick-toned, deep but with limpid edges. Nose of old dusty rose comes off strongly tannic, but more floral than fruity. Herbs predominate heavily over fruit on the palate initially, leaving warm cherry tones to break through later after a sip or two. Long, warm finish.
Next, the unfinished 2007, in-barrel and still awaiting final blending – Deeper, darker cherry red-amethyst color. Nose is completely different than the ’06 Reserve, redolent of licorice, red raspberry and cherry. Flavor is less tannic, but again with strong herbal notes over an underpinning of fresh cherry fruit.

Finally, the “baby” 2008 cabernet sauvignon, also still in barrel and awaiting blending – Color is much more amethyst and darker than the ’07. Nose is comparatively simpler, more tannic, but with licorice notes similar to the ’07. Smoother, richer flavor with heady, intoxicating aroma and mouth-feel, finishing with interesting ash, coal, and tobacco.

Brief interlude: Guardian cellars

Driving from DiStephano to the main Woodinville wine warehouse row, my next planned stop was the spring release party at Guardian cellars. Briefly sticking my head in the door, however, was enough to make me change my plans. Especially having never before been to the winery, I wanted to taste; most of the folks at Guardian were having a grand old time drinking and partying in a clubbish sort of atmosphere, dark and crowded with music that could hold its own against the convivial banter of sixty or so wine lovers. Great for partying; wretched for tasting. I’ve bookmarked Guardian for another day.

Proper stop two: Patterson Cellars

I took refuge from the music and crowds across the parking lot at Patterson Cellars, where John Patterson, his fiancée Stephanie, and John’s in-laws to be were pouring for an equally enthusiastic but much quieter and smaller crowd. Everyone was busy, but John and his father-in-law-cum-cellar partner still had time to chat and answer questions.

2009 Chardonnay – Concentrated, golden yellow-orange color with no obvious green tint. Tutti-frutti nose: pineapple, orange, and mango with a floral finish, like a tropical cocktail flavored with a hit of rosewater. Sweet candied apricot and sweet almonds in the mouth. Discernible oak, but with a spritely citrus finish.

2009 Rose – Very sweet apricot, almond, and magnolia nose. Obviously carries residual sugar, some of which feels like dead weight in the mouth before lemony acid bears through on the finish. Plenty of rose and peach fills out the mid-palate to avoid a purely candied sensation. Short finish.

Woodslake Due Anni – from Patterson’s second label, a blend of ’07 and ’08 vintages. Deep cherry red color. Grassy, oaky, furry nose clearly comes from large percentages of merlot and cab franc. Initial and mid palate are round with sweet Bing cherry and lots of oak, but with soft rather than overwhelming tannins. Finishes with a bare hint of greenness.

2006 Malbec – 32 months in barrel. Intense, deep purple color. Very complex nose includes unusual but not offensive parsley aromas. Concentrated and dense-feeling in the mouth with deep blackberry jam flavors before a spicy, hot finish. Notable overall for a thick, dense mouth-feel with tons of blackberry and spice.

2006 Cabernet Franc – Lighter shade of the same cherry red tone as the Due Anni. Green, vegetative nose smells like classic cab franc. again, very concentrated sweet blackberry jam flavors in the mouth and spicy heat at the back of the palate. Blackberry fades fast on the finish, but oregano and thyme herbaciousness lingers. Very warming in the mouth, similar to the after-effect of a cup of ginger tea but without the ginger flavor itself.

Last stop: Efeste

The obvious but nonetheless unfortunate truth being that I couldn’t visit every winery holding a spring release that afternoon, I decided to make one last stop at Efeste, having heard word that it was busy but not overwhelmingly crowded. One look at the face of the gent pouring the first tasting sample made it clear that it had been a very busy afternoon indeed, even if it was beginning to wear down by the time I arrived roundabouts 4:00. I had to meander over to the open garage door for enough light to see through my glass but was otherwise delighted to find a crowd as enthusiastic about the wines themselves as I was.

2009 Ferral (sauvignon blanc) – Pale, luminescent gold. Very sweet nose first of pineapple-orange punch, then lemon-butter-oak. Meyer lemon zestiness and a bit of spice overlay lots of sweet grapeiness in the mouth.

2009 Evergreen Riesling – sweet! smells sweet, tastes sweet…definitely a riesling forsweet (more likely “off-dry” in typical parlance) riesling lovers (myself not usually included, forgive me.) 1.5% residual sugar feels like so much dead weight in the mouth to me, but does bring out pretty almond flavors. Maybe power of suggestion, but I even taste a little pine-needle freshness at the back of the mouth.

2006 Final Final (roughly half-and-half cab sauv and syrah with a touch of mouvedre) – Looks like a syrah, being thickly purple in the glass. strongly cherry nose, round and warm. Candied cherry and blackberry up front on the palate, a solid middle of dark red fruit, and a bit of citrusy lemon/piney flavor on the relatively thin and short finish.

2006 Big Papa (100% cab sauv, half from Red Mountain, half from elsewhere) – Very dense in the glass. More tannin in the nose than on the Final Final with lots of fresh blackberry. Blueberry fruit comes on strong, followed again by that (characteristic of Efeste?) piney finish. Finish is again relatively thin and short.

My thanks again to the tall and likewise note-taking gent who caught my bent and put me in the direction of Patterson and Efeste. Anyone have suggestions for my next weekend trip?