Pages

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Coraline Doll Revised and Improved 2013

Finally after 2 years I revised my Coraline pattern and it was long over due! My hope was to make the pattern easier and less fiddly but with that said this is still apattern for a crocheter with some experience. I have a step by step video that follows along with the pattern however please be aware there are parts that a beginner will find difficult to do.

Supplies:Coat and boots - Red Heart Comfort yarn Bright Yellow 3182Skin Color - Red Heart Comfort yarn Cream 3240
Hair - Use a bright, vibrant blue. It doesn't have to be a particular brand just use a medium #4 worsted weight yarnPants and Messenger Bag - Red Heart Comfort or Red Heart Super Saver Any color of your choicebuttons for eyessewing needleyarn needle optional * 20 gauge wire4 pipe cleaners fabric tac or tacky glueoptional * brown felt pen for frecklesyour choice of a 3.75mm to a 4.5mm hook (For Wybie's pattern I used a 3.75mm so if you want the dolls to go together then use the same hook size for both dolls)Read me ~> How to read the rows:
Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in
next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by
1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row.
The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you
should have at the end of that particular row.

Head: starting with whatever color you will use for the hair1) magic circle with 6st (6)2) 2sc in each (12)3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)7) switch to skin color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 34st (36)8-17) 1sc in each st for 10 rows18) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)19) 1sc then 2tog (18)20) 1sc then 2tog (12) *stop and stuff head. Stuff the head as much as you can, making sure to shape as you stuff. Use a pencil or stuffing stick and make a hole in the stuffing, right in the middle. This hole is for the pipe cleaners you will put in later.21) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)now we will be making the neck then onto the coat22-25) 1sc in each st for 4 rows (9)26) 2sc in each st (18)27) switch to coat color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 16st (18)28) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)29-36) 1sc in each st for 8 rows

*now stop and stabilize the neck. For this I cut a piece of 20 gauge wire about 24 inches long (2 times the length of a pipe cleaner). I folded it in half then folded it in half again and twisted it as pictured. The 20 gauge wire is optional but it does make the neck super stabilized yet still poseable. Don't worry if you don't have the wire as the pipe cleaners will work on their own just fine. Take 4 pipe cleaners and fold them in half and twist them around the wire. Put in a pencil or stuffing stick inside the head and work it around to re-open that hole you made earlier in the stuffing! This step just makes it easier to push the stabilizer in. Push the wire into the neck making sure you go far enough in so that the other end is level with row 36. Take the piece out, taking mental note of the area that sits inside the neck itself and add a thin layer of fabric glue (tacky glue will work too) just to the part that sits in the neck. This step will ensure that the stabilizer will not come out of the neck later. Let the glue dry for a minute or two then continue onto row 37.

click on pictures to enlarge them

37) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)38-39) 1sc in each st for 2 rows40) FLO 1sc in each st41) 1sc in each stsl st next st and f/o. Weave yarn tail in to hide it. By crocheting in the front loops for row 40 you created a ridge on the inside as pictured below. This is where you insert
the color you will use for the pants. 1) pull through one of the loops of that ridge then put 1sc around for 1 row. The end of the ridge will be a bit higher than the beginning so just join them with a sc2+) Crochet 2tog until you close the gap, make sure to add in any stuffing the body needs before closing the gap. f/o and hide yarn tail in body

Boot and Leg: starting with yellow we begin with the sole of the boot1) ch 82)
starting with the 2nd chain from the hook, 1sc in each st (7) now continue working around on the other side of the chain, 1sc in the outer loops (arrows pointing to the outer loops on other side of ch). (14) *make sure to add a marker in the last sc you put in and move that marker at the end of every row

3) 2sc in next 4st, 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next 4st (22)4) 1sc in each of the BLO (22)5) 1sc in each6) 2tog 3 times, 1sc in next 10st then 2tog 3 times (16)7) 2tog 2 times, 1sc in next 8st then 2tog 2 times (12)8) 2tog, 1sc in next 8st then 2tog (10)9-11) 1sc in each st for 3 rows12) switch colors on first st then sl st next st then 1sc in next 8st (10)13-17) 1sc in each st for 5 rowsf/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Top Rim of Boot:1) ch 13 (chain less if the beginning and the end of the chain overlap when placed around the boot). Sew to the top edge of the boot. Hide yarn tails inside leg. Pin the legs in place as pictured and make sure you are happy with the placement and that they are centered.before sewing them in.

Arms: start with yellow1) magic circle with 5st (5)2) 2sc in each st (10)3-9) 1sc in each st for 7 rows10) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (8)11-12) 1sc in each st for 2 rows switch to skin color on last st of row 1213) sl st first st, 1sc in next 7st (8)14) 2sc in each st (16)15) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (12) *very lightly stuff arm. Do not stuff wrist or hand16) 1sc then 2tog (8)17)
2tog 3 times and f/o. Weave in and out through the remaining st,
pull tight to close the gap, f/o and hide yarn tail inside arm.Arm Cuff:1) ch9 or 10 and sew it to the arm where the yellow changes to the skin color. Hide yarn tails inside armPin the arms in place so that the top of the arms are level with the coat color then sew them in.

FrontStrip on Coat: 1) ch about 17 f/o sew it or glue it down the front and middle of the coat, the bottom of the chain will wrap under the coat. Hide yarn tails in body

Collar: With coat color *sew this part on after the arms have been sewn on1) ch 192) starting with the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each (18)3) ch 2 and turn, starting with the 3rd st from the hook, 1hdc then 2hdc in next st (27) f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin into place as pictured then sew around the bottom edge of the collar.

Hood:1) magic circle with 6st (6)2) 2sc in each (12)3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)7) 1sc in each st8) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)9) 1sc in eachf/o leaving a tail for sewing. Fold flat to shape as pictured. Sew in place. The hood is only for looks and is not big enough to fit over the head

Ears:*ears aren't completely necessary and you can leave these out of the pattern. I chose remove the ears from my Coraline doll. I left the ear part in the pattern for you so at least you have a choice.1) magic circle with 5st (5)2) ch1 and turn, 2sc in each st (10)f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin in place with the top of the ears just under the 4th row down from the color change on head

Hair:wrap yarn loosely in loops. Once you have a good bundle cut through the loops (one end only) so that you have strands of yarn as pictured. You will make 2 or 3 of these bundles before you are all done. You
will root each strand into blue patch on top of the head. I started on the 7th row as shown in the 2nd picture below. Pull a strand through a
stitch on top of the head and then pull the yarn tails through the loop
and pull tight. Go around
and around until the blue patch is covered in less 2 or 3 rows from the center as pictured below so the hair is not so thick on top, you can fill that part in as well and it's just a matter of preference. I found the hair is easier to style when not so thick on the very top. The way I styled her hair the bald spot is not seen.

Face:tie the hair back so that you can work on the face. I show how to do the face step by step in the video. It is hard to explain in written form but I will do my best.

Eyes:If you didn't use safety eyes you can sew in black buttons. You could also glue the buttons in place!

Nose & Mouth:with same color you used for the skin, (I use yellow here because it shows better in the pictures). 1) Pull the yarn through a stitch on the face and ch3 then f/o leaving a long enough tailto make a mouth. 2) Using a yarn needle bring the end you f/o through a stitch just above where you originally pulled the yarn through 3) and out where you want one corner of the mouth to be4) now bring it over a few stitches as pictured so you have a strand running across5) and then back out the corner you went in (one stitch over) and back over so that you have 2 strands running across that make the top and bottom lip6) bring the yarn tail out through the side of the face and leave it hanging there. Now bring the other yarn tail out through same stitch the first yarn tail is coming out of. Knot them together and hide the knot inside the face and cut the excess yarn tails off.

You can use regular blush to add in some color on the cheeks, lips and nose. Use a q-tip and gradually build up the color until you are happy with the look. Use a brown felt pen with a fine tip to dot in freckles. Make sure you know exactly where you want the freckles because once you dot them in there is no going back!

And that's it, whew!! That was a lot of details but now you have your own Coraline doll and I hope you had fun making her! Please post pictures on my facebook page Amigurumi Freely, if you do make a doll.

Happy Crocheting and all the best to you in 2014!!

Donations of any size are greatly appreciated and help keep the patterns
free. If you do give a donation, please accept this note as my sincere
thanks and know that you have helped a great deal.
Many Blessings to you!

Hey Lady, I love your videos. learned hot to crochet in ONE day after watching your videos. I wanted a new hobby and I got it. I myself make jewelry but that can get very expensive as with most things but I'm loving crocheting. And what luck,2 days after I find your year old coralline video, you made a revised one. Anyway, Keep the videos coming. Your friend in NJ, Amy

Ps, can you give me any other cool ideas of things to knit, aside from scarves blankets, and gloves. I'm not interested in making those items. But like a scully cap maybe or a cool sweater (Not sweatshirt) I hope to hear back from you. YOur Jersey Friend, Amy

Watched your tutorial last night , just printed off the pattern, going to start her tonight, thank you Sharon after watching some of your tutorials you made sense and I could understand and follow along pausing during each row my first make of yours was the Mouse followed by the little clothes, so looking forward to making Coraline Thank you Again for all your hard work and fab patterns.I have just recommended your youtube to a friend

Thank you. I am not making Coraline but am using the base of your doll to make a Harley Quinn. It truly is helpful to have a base. This Coraline doll pattern is perfect. Well I better finish it up. It's for my mom; her birthday is tomorrow.

Thank you so very much for this wonderful pattern. I am just finishing my first doll but I do have a question as this is the first one I have ever made with hair. How does the hair stay attached? I have put it in per your video but I have found I have to go back and pull them all tight again. My doll is for a 7 year who I am sure is going to love the heck out of it and I worry the hair strands will come loose and fall out. I am already planning on making more of these.

I've never had an issue with them falling out. The strands are long, too long to fall out. If you're worried, knot each one. OR dab a little dot of tacky glue on each spot that you root and that will ensure it will never fall out. I don't think it's needed but if you're worried, that will do the job for sure.