Description

Follow the easy (unprotectable) pebbly face up to the same horizontal break as on Dark Holler. Follow the crack above to the top. Although this route has never been lead, it should protect okay if one chooses to do so. Be sure to bring small gear (stoppers, TCUs). Also the inside walls of the crack may have suspect rock quality so be cautious and make sure your gear is bomber if you choose to lead it. Although the grade is easier than Dark Hollow it always makes you think hard and commit to the tough insecure moves near the top. Variation. If lead, it is possible to climb the right facing corner to the left of the pebbly face to reach the horizontal break. It may not be as fun as the face but it is a safer option because you can get protection.

Location

10 feet left of Dark Holler. There are many ways to get to get to the top to set up a top rope but the easiest to explain is to head back up the gully and keep left until you see a place you can scramble up. You can also reach it by traversing right from the top of Lil Sadie.

Protection

30 feet or more of webbing to sling a large boulder. A gear anchor MAY also be possible.