This weekend, I decided to stitch up a new version of my Lunar Crossings Shawl. Red Heart had recently sent me some “Unforgettable” yarn in the colorway Gossamer and I was excited to try it out.

Special Instructions

I originally made the Lunar Crossings Shawl in a finer weight. When I received this yarn, I wanted to try it out in the heavier weight yarn of Red Heart Unforgettable. Please follow the instructions below to make this variation to the original pattern which is also linked below.

To make this version, I used three full skeins of Unforgettable and an I-9 (5.5mm) hook. I had just enough to make a tassel for the bottom. I used every bit of the three skeins of delicious color and softness.

Thank you to Red Heart Yarns for providing yarn support for this project.

In order to make this project, I followed the Lunar Crossings Shawl pattern. After row 12, I did five more repeats of the six rows, ending with row 42. To make the edging, I used the Cluster Lace Edging up to the fifth round only. It required a small bit of modification at the edges since the shawl is a triangle and I only wanted the edging along the two sides.

These sizes are approximate. I was asked to do the math to make Lunar Crossings Square Blanket into a rectangle. I went through about one skein of the yarn to test the pattern. One skein got me to about 23″ x 25″ with three full lace repeat rounds. Here are the propagated measurements based on this information.

Thank you to Red Heart Yarns for providing yarn support for this project.

Gauge

Since this pattern is designed to work with any tension, gauge isn’t entirely crucial. Use a hook that gives you a nice fabric with the yarn of your choice. To work at my tension, with the yarn specified:

After round 3, measures 3.5″ x 5″

After round 5, measures 5.5″ x 7″

After round 11, measures 11″ x 12.5″

Special Stitches

Shell (sh): [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in same ch-2 sp. When at the beginning of a round, ch 3, [dc, ch 2, 2dc] in same ch-2 sp instead (since the first ch 3 is considered the first dc).

Long Single Crochet (long sc): Insert hook under the ch-6 sp from the row below, yarn over, pull loop through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook. You will be joining together the ch-6 sp and the ch-4 sp above it. You normally crochet under one chain space. In this case, you’re crocheting under two chain spaces. Don’t overthink this. Just put your hook in the ch-6 space and work a single crochet. You’ll be pulling the ch-4 sp and the ch-6 sp together.

Notes

Project can be made in any yarn type or weight, with appropriate hook. Work any number of rounds for the size desired.

At the end of some of the rounds, a stitch count is provided (after the colon). It is only a stitch count to double-check your work. It isn’t additional crochet instruction.

On double crochet rounds, the traditional ch-3 is used at the beginning. My personal preference is to use a ch-2 so feel free to use a ch-2 or ch-3, whichever is your preference.

A gradient yarn is used which means that the color changes you see are made with the yarn itself. If you prefer to substitute yarn, you can use whatever color(s) you like and change colors as you desire, or alternatively, use one solid color throughout.

The math I’ve done for the rectangle makes a nice throw size but not a huge difference between width and length. If you prefer more of a rectangle, you can add an additional 10 chains to the starting chain.

Instructions

Round 1: Ch 13, sk 5 ch (counts as dc plus ch 2), [dc, ch 2, dc] in next ch, dc in each ch to last ch, [dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc] in last ch, turn the piece upside down to begin working along the bottom in the unused loops of ch, dc across, sl st to third ch of beg ch 5 and into ch-2 sp: 8 dc on top and bottom, 1 dc at each end and 4 ch-2 sps.

Round 2: *Sh (see Special Stitches above), 3 dc in next dc, sh in next ch-2 sp, dc in each dc to next corner ch-2 sp, rep from * once more, sl st to top of beg ch-3, next dc and into ch-2 sp: 12 dc on each long side, 7 dc on each short side and 4 ch-2 sps.

Round 3: *Sh, dc in each dc to next corner ch-2 sp, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to top of beg ch-3, next dc and into ch-2 sp: 16 dc on each long side, 11 dc on each short side and 4 ch-2 sps.

Round 4: Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in ch-2 sp, sc in each dc to next corner ch-2 sp, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to first sc and into ch-2 sp: 18 sc on each long side, 13 sc on each short side and 4 ch-2 sps.

Round 5: *Sh, dc in each sc to next corner ch-2 sp, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to top of beg ch-3, next dc and into ch-2 sp: 22 dc on each long side, 17 dc on each short side and 4 ch-2 sps.

Round 6: Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in ch-2 sp, sc in next 2 dc, [ch 6, sk 3 dc, sc in next 2 dc] to corner ch-2 sp, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to first sc and into ch-2 sp: 4 ch-6 sps on each long side and 3 ch-6 sps on each short side.

Round 10: *Sh, dc in next 8 sc, [3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in next 2 sc] to last ch-3 sp before corner ch-2 sp, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in 8 sc, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to beg ch-3, next dc and into ch-2 sp: 38 dc on each long side, 33 dc on each short side and 4 ch-2 sps.

Round 11: *Sh, dc in each dc to corner ch-2 sp, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to beg ch-3, next dc and into ch-2 sp: 42 dc on each long side, 37 dc on each short side and 4 ch-2 sps.

Note: Each 6-round repeat increases the stitch count by 20 dc on each side.

Main Body Shell (sh): [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in same ch or ch-2 sp. When at the beginning of a round, ch 3, [dc, ch 2, 2dc] in same ch or ch-2 sp instead (first ch 3 of round is considered the first dc). (This shell is the one worked in the main body of the poncho, not the border.)

Long Single Crochet (long sc): Insert hook under the ch-6 sp from the row below, yarn over, pull loop through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook. You will be joining together the ch-6 sp and the ch-4 sp above it. You normally crochet under one chain space. In this case, you’re crocheting under two chain spaces. Don’t overthink this. Just put your hook in the ch-6 space and work a single crochet. You’ll be pulling the ch-4 sp and the ch-6 sp together.

Round 10: *Sh, dc in next 8 sc, [3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in next 2 sc] to last ch-3 sp before corner ch-2 sp, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in 8 sc, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to beg ch-3, next dc and into ch-2 sp: 53 dc on each side and 4 ch-2 sps.

Round 11: *Sh, dc in each dc to corner ch-2 sp, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to beg ch-3, cut off A: 57 dc on each side and 4 ch-2 sps.

Note: Each repeat of round 11 increases the stitch count by 20 dc on each side.

Round 2: *Fan (see Special Stitches above) in ch-6 sp of corner, sh (see Special Stitches above) in each ch-6 sp to next corner, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to third ch of beg ch-4 and into ch-1 sp.

Round 3: Ch 2, *[cl (see Special Stitches above), ch 2] in each ch-1 sp of fan, cl in center ch-1 sp of sh, ch 2, [cl, ch 2] in each ch-1 sp of next sh, repeating to next corner, ending side with cl in center ch-1 sp of last sh before corner, ch 2, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to first cl and into ch-2 sp.

Round 4: Ch 1, *[sc, ch 3] in each ch-2 sp of corner, [cl in next ch-2 sp] twice, ch 3, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3] twice, repeating to next corner, ending side with [cl in next ch-2 sp] twice, ch 3, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to first sc and into ch-3 sp.

Round 5: Ch 2, *[cl, ch 3] in each ch-3 sp at corner, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] twice, [cl, ch 3, cl] in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, repeating to next corner, ending side at last two clusters with [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] twice, rep from * 3 times more, sl st to first cl and into ch-3 sp.

Round 6: Ch 1, *[sc, ch 5] in each ch-3 sp at corner, [sc in next ch-3 sp, v-st (see Special Stitches above) in next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc in ch-3 sp between 2 cl, ch 5] to corner, repeating to next corner, ending side with sc in next ch-3 sp, v-st in next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch-5, sl st to first sc, fasten off.