In the process of moving my new 3750k to my watercooled case, I decided to strip the loop apart and clean it out. Last night, I dissasembled my 345 Koolance waterblock to see what it looked like. And it looked like HELL.

A few years back, I tried Primochill coolant with a UV "Dye Bomb". The UV effect lasted for about 3 weeks, so I opened the drain port to look at the fluid. Found accumulations of what looked like white paste, and about the same consistency as paste. Cleaned out as much as I could, but didn't clean anything else out, just flushed with distilled water and refilled with distilled water.

Last night, I found greenish gunk all over the pins inside the waterblock. Took about 30 min with a toothbrush and detergent to take it off. It kind of looked like this:

So next step is taking apart my 655 pump and seeing what that looks like inside. I'm pissed... lesson learned. I suspect the heat transfer capacity of the radiator is also dimished if the crap accumulated there, but really no chance of cleaning it, unless I can find a solvent.

No, the accretions are not biological, as far as I can tell. They're hard and a bitch to clean off. The waterblock is chrome plated on the inside, and I think the radiator is aluminum, but it may be copper, hence the green color (?). The color may be a by-product of the remainder fo the dye bomb.

It's either distilled water or Koolance fluid for me, I've had great experience with both in the past.

If you want a green color in the coolant, go WCing old school with Propylene "green color" glycol. The Sierra brand has always been the one of choice. It's not UV, but the green color will actually keep in the coolant and not your parts. Also, the stuff will lubricate the Laing pump nicely for years of trouble free operation too. The corrosion inhibitors will prevent the nasties in the loop as well.

About 10 to 15% is all it will need.

To clean the parts that have been gunked up, distilled vinegar works great! Even mix it up to flush through the loop.

My name is Dave

If you want a green color in the coolant, go WCing old school with Propylene "green color" glycol. The Sierra brand has always been the one of choice. It's not UV, but the green color will actually keep in the coolant and not your parts. Also, the stuff will lubricate the Laing pump nicely for years of trouble free operation too. The corrosion inhibitors will prevent the nasties in the loop as well.

About 10 to 15% is all it will need.

To clean the parts that have been gunked up, distilled vinegar works great! Even mix it up to flush through the loop.

If you want a green color in the coolant, go WCing old school with Propylene "green color" glycol. The Sierra brand has always been the one of choice. It's not UV, but the green color will actually keep in the coolant and not your parts. Also, the stuff will lubricate the Laing pump nicely for years of trouble free operation too. The corrosion inhibitors will prevent the nasties in the loop as well.

About 10 to 15% is all it will need.

To clean the parts that have been gunked up, distilled vinegar works great! Even mix it up to flush through the loop.

My assumption as well. The Dye Bomb started coagulating about a month after I added it. The residue was like a plastic white paste, and not water soluble. So if it is plasticizer, I have no idea what to use for a solvent.

Edit: My plan is to take the pump apart tonight, so I'll try to post pictures of that when it's opened before cleaning it.

Ethylene Glycol is traditional green antifreeze, which is what most people use, Propylene Glycol is generally labeled as "Non-Toxic" or RV Antifreeze and is uaually pink. I use a 10% mix of Propylene Glycol when I run watercooling because it is safe for my animals if I ever spill any.

It took 30 minutes to clean the pins off the waterblock base, plus detergent and a sore arm! I think it was the mechanical action more than anything else.

My concern is a layer of the stuff is now in the radiator, acting as an insulator, but it's oversized in heat capacity, so I'm not too worried about it. The waterblock and pump are the priority I think.

Fleetguard CC2825 coolant, its blue, it has everything and is a 50/50 mix. Add 25% more distilled water and a couple drops of antibacterial dish soap as a wetting agent.

Its what I use and after a couple years my blocks were still sparkling clean, my tubes were still fine, and I get insane temperatures, the other night I opened the front door and my 5870 was 6C under full F@H load @ 1.3 volts and 1058Mhz core, and its AFTER my 1100T