Very nice but you may want to consider a few things, Or not..... Those kicker amps are gonna die from corrosion related to the batteries off gassing. Not to mention spark hazard. The batteries also need to be secured in acid proof trays. Using boxes might be the easiest way out of both issues. Use hex nuts in lieu of the wing nuts. A good start to be sure, nice boat. It always seems to take so much more time then when you first imagined the project. You sure didnt skimp on product choice.

AGreed on the batteries. For a system like that, I normally use the Stinger SPP2150 and SPP925. The smaller one to power the boat and accessories, the bigger one dedicated to the stereo. Those batteries are dry-cell AGM's, and don't need cases. They also have a 3-year replacement warranty, which means they replace them with no questions asked. It'll help you gain some space also.

The green wires going into the WS amps appear to be the power and ground wires. Those look woefully inadequate!! You need at least an 8 gauge--I only use 4 gauge, not sure if that's really necessary or not, but better too large than too small. Maybe that's a temp connection??? Maybe the pic makes it look tiny?? If it's really as thin as it looks, you will have to change that out. Read teh owners manual, they may tell you exactly what size you need.

Also, you're asking for trouble using the same color wire for both + & - connections...just small mistake to cross them and harm your equipment. fwiw...

All good responses and I can tell you from experience take your time and do it right the first time so you do not have to redo it all over again the following year. WS states that you need 8 gauge wire for the amps. You have great products, now use some great wire, fused distribution blocks and wire loom to make it look professional. I did all of mine myself and yes it takes a few weekends and a couple hundred trips to Lowes, but in the end you are proud to show off what you have done.

Hey guys thanks for the Tips. Yes several trips, I should of just pulled up to Home Depot parking lot and worked on it there. Would of saved about 4 hours of trips. I used 4 gauge for the power and ground to the amps. The green wire is the remote wire, if I need a bigger wire for the remote let me know. The batteries yes, would love to go to the dry cell but for right now the funds have dwindled to say the least. By the weekend I should be finished, I have a kicker L7sub that will be installed with the Alpine amp pushing. Plan is to have another WS sub replacing that when I can swing it. Fun project, lots of thought put into it, and like I said this is the first time I have ever attempted a stereo upgrade, boat or car so all pointers are welcome.

I think I realize what caused the confusion with the green remote wire. There is two green wire going to one WS amp and then only one green wire going to the other. I think what the OP did was just piggy back one amp remote wire off the other amp instead of running two separate remote wires from the source?