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the sound of a lone didgeridoo. The
communal seating a rrangement is made
more convivial by the combination of good
wine a nd a shimmering night sky that
might have been created by Swarovski.
The highlight comes when the host
requests that everyone be silent and still.
For a city dweller like me, the notion of
complete silence is almost unfathomable.
Yet, ba r the breeze that is blowing sand
around our tables, we experience a rare
and powerful nothingness.
The night is capped off in style with
creamy bread a nd butter pudding, a glass
of port and a session with a 'star talker'.
Pointing out various constellations, he
directs us to a series of telescopes that are
so high-tech you can see Saturn's rings.
Even if you're not a morning person, it's
worth dragging yourself out of bed early.
Away from the coaches ferrying bleary-
eyed huma n ca rgo to viewing platforms
near the rock, the Desert Awakenings
4WD Tour ($149) sets up camp on an
isolated dune 20 kilometres from Uluru.
Numbers are limited to around 20.
Watching the sun rise over Uluru with a
cuppa cradled in your hands, a welcoming
fire and the crackling of frying bacon is
the ideal way to begin the day.
Later, when you hop into a four-wheel
drive and head towa rds the Uluru-Kata
Tjuta National Pa rk, the rock takes on
a different look altogether, becoming
dotted with caves, honeycombed erosion,
buffed ridges and smooth, folded
serrations. Its texture
is equally beguiling,
created by mechanical
erosion and chemical
changes caused
by moisture.
Visitors wishing to
interact with Uluru
must be guided by the
Tjukurpa, the traditional
law that underpins Anangu society.
Because the rock is on Anangu land,
you are informed by guides a nd signposts
that photography is forbidden in certain
ceremonial areas, while other a reas
cannot be visited at all. The Anangu
people also ask that you don't climb
Uluru. For them, climbing the rock
is a disrespectful act.
In lieu of climbing, check out the
enigmatic ancient rock art and Mutitjulu
Waterhole just five minutes' stroll from
the rock. Made of seemingly interlocking
rock fascias that tumble down the face
of Uluru towa rds a pristine pool, this
enclave is so stunning that it almost
looks digitally enhanced. Surrounding
the pool a re sulphur-tinted honeyeaters.
They trill in nearby desert oaks while
glossy black willie wagtails cock their
heads inquisitively.
As with many other experiences in
the region, the beauty of Mutitjulu will
render you speechless. This may turn out
to be a good thing, as the Anangu women
believe willie wagtails are incorrigible
gossips, so they prefer to remain silent
in their presence.
It's another example of how the intrinsic
link between the land, people and animals
here can teach us about the real Australia.
Perhaps we ca n learn to cherish the gift
that's right on our doorstep.
Getting there • To book your Virgin Blue
flight to Uluru visit www.virginblue.com.au
or call 13 67 89 (in Australia).
Top left: For
a real outback
adventure, book
a four-wheel
drive tour and
explore Uluru-
Kata Tjuta
National Park.
Left: Lace up your
hiking boots and
follow the 2.6-
kilometre Walpa
Gorge Trail.
Watching the sun rise over Uluru
with a cuppa cradled in your hands
is the ideal way to begin the day.
uluru