On Speed In Yosemite: Catching Up To The Hubers

by Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com Jun/2008This news story has been read 26,184 times

It has been reported that Thomas and Alexander Huber got a $2 million grant from the German government to aid their record breaking speed ascent of the 870m (2900') Nose route on El Cap, last October. They sped up this big wall classic, normally done in 31 pitches, in a remarkable two hours and 45 minutes (2:45:45), beating the previous 2002 record by Yosemite local and speed evangelist, Hans Florine and Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama by three minutes (2:48:55).

Now Florine, 44 and 39 year old Yuji Hirayama are attempting to regain the top spot on the podium.

FIRST ATTEMPT

With Hirayama only a day off the plane and nursing a sore finger from bouldering, last Monday they did a training ascent with a time of 4 hours and 48 minutes.

SECOND ATTEMPT

Then Thursday they tried again shaving 1 hour and 20 minutes off Monday's ascent hitting the finishing line, actually a tree, with a time of three hours and 28 minutes, 43 minutes slower than the German brothers.

THIRD ATTEMPT

Then yesterday (Sunday 29th June) , it was go number three for Florine and Hirayama and they were shy of the record by 2 1/2 minutes with a time of 2 hours, 47 minutes and 30 seconds.

FOURTH ATTEMPT

They try again Wednesday and Florine is confident that they can shave 15 to 20 minutes off yesterday's time.