Is anyone out there doing reproductions of Centurion (or any 80's Japanese marque, for that matter) decals? I'm finally starting on the frame that jebensch gave me last winter, but I really hate stripping and re-painting or powdering a frame without doing some for of decals that gives the bike's lineage.

Any ideas will be appreciated.

__________________Syke

"No wonder we keep testing positive in their bicycle races. Everyone looks like they're full of testosterone when they're surrounded by Frenchmen." ---Argus Hamilton

I had an 86, an 88, and an 89 Ironman, and all 3 had very different Centurion decals and even different Tange 1 tubing decals. I decided to make my own [when rattlecanning the '88 and '89] with MS WordArt and thought they came out quite well, even if not exactly "original". Used beldecal.com water transfers

Spent the last day or two doing some research, and finally figured out what I've got: A 1986 Centurion Elite RS. One slight ding in the top tube, almost on the level of a fingernail scratch, otherwise in good mechanical shape. Cosmetically? Well, a bit beat, but hardly the worst I've ever had come through these doors.

I would have seriously considered just cleaning and polishing to the best available, but unfortunately some previous owner just HAD to repaint that top tube dark blue.

The decals are going to be a bit of a *****, because in it's effort to be artsy as hell, Centurion couldn't possibly use the same type style dimensions. No, the letters go from narrow to wide as you read left to right.

Plus there's those little "Miami Vice" bits of color that are part of the name.

The headtube decal isn't going to be a lot easier.

And thank to that effing previous owner's repaint on the top tube, I don't even have the "Elite RS" decal to photograph for a starting point. I figure I've got a good winter's project working with the computer, trying to come up with something.

Of course, there's always Plan B:

Have the frame powdercoated in some classic color, and then do it up with a complete set of Confente Masi decals . . . . . . . . .

Yes, that is under serious consideration.

__________________Syke

"No wonder we keep testing positive in their bicycle races. Everyone looks like they're full of testosterone when they're surrounded by Frenchmen." ---Argus Hamilton

I've had luck with MS Publisher, and even WordArt, on the expanding font thing for the "Centurion," and I re-created the Ironman logo pretty quickly (about an hour) using Publisher.

I kind of agree with other posters; get it blasted, then painted or coated in colors you like, and put your Centurion name and model on in a way it suits you. The Centurion decals are very, very busy, and if you try to replicate them, you'll spend a lot of time doing so, and a lot of time placing them back on the bike.

Like Robbie, I did the DT expanding thing with WordArt fairly easily. A similar HT decal was simple, too. I used a lightning bolt through the C instead of the two wedges. With variations, basically the decal scheme I used on my '88.

Question - was the paint on the TT stripped off before repainting? If not, it might be possible to remove the blue and leave the teal underneath reasonably unscathed. Not easy, but it might be possible.

Question - was the paint on the TT stripped off before repainting? If not, it might be possible to remove the blue and leave the teal underneath reasonably unscathed. Not easy, but it might be possible.

-Kurt

Not stripped. A bit scuffed up and with many scratches, patches and nicks, but yes - original teal. I suppose Skye could carefully Goof Off that dark blue and rinse before it get into the teal+clear underneath.
Acetone maybe? I don't know much of the chemical stuff.

Not stripped. A bit scuffed up and with many scratches, patches and nicks, but yes - original teal. I suppose Skye could carefully Goof Off that dark blue and rinse before it get into the teal+clear underneath.
Acetone maybe? I don't know much of the chemical stuff.

Could be done. I believe there is a method used by Hot Wheels collectors to do the same thing - forgot what solution is used though (a Google search could probably generate the answer).

If the area was lightly sanded beforehand, some microfinishing compound should polish it back out, followed with Meguiars Scratch X.