Sunday, 16 September 2012

Day 3 London Fashion Week, SS13 reviews

The collection had warrior-esque inspired feel I thought
with flat lace up, knee high boots and also the combination of textures such as
chain of pearls that detailed around dress was like an armour shield. Garments
had frayed edges, netted layered skirts and detail guillotine style cuts in
fabric.

It had Stepford wife 1950s feel to the collection models
with plastic doll like faces shining, blue eye shadow to the eyebrow, purple
rinse hair and beehive grey wigs with rolls at front and tucked underneath at
back of head. Beauty was made ugly, the new ugly fashion with hair nets and
wide brimmed pointed glasses.

The accessories were heralding back to days when women were
ladies lace and satin elbow length gloves, and hats not masculine bowler or
flat caps but dainty boater hat style and sculpturally placed small brim hats. Not
forgetting pearls the quintessential lady accessory they were large and long
chain necklaces.

Some of my favourite looks were pyjama striped shirt dress,
sharp off shoulder cut wraparound dress in soft coloured splattered print and
the 50s swimsuits perfectly cut for the classic dream silhouette. There was a nod to Westwood slogan print 90s days when back
of t-shirt read ‘Climate Revolution’ which then materialised into intended
message when Vivienne Westwood at end of show came out followed by two army
clad slogan models, her dress unravelled to a large banner which was held by
models with ‘Climate Revolution’ on and Westwood wore baroque inspired helmet highlighting
the fights against climate control.

The extremes of the collection highlighted 50s repression,
climate control and ugly as beauty.

The collection had a formalist approach, linear lines, block
colour and pattern print with contrasting colour alignment. Shirts were button
up collared two tone affairs the top was either a block colour or print and
bottom half plain white, they looked crisp with a subtle twist on the
conventional tailored shirt. The two tone was also on loose fitting v neck
dresses the colour reached triangular point on dress and white around. Quirky
differences to the tailored look came with the blazer having contrasting
coloured lapels of white and black, also contrasting coloured arms.

The use of colour came in pop art bursts with varying stages
of red and yellow in geometric square print dress. Lower half of shirt sleeves
were dip dyed, I liked how the white shirt became reconstructured for younger
audience by simple colour play.

The collection has inspiration from the classicism of the
white shirt and line detail, giving modern sharp lines a dash with bold colouring.

It was all about the print beautiful scenic snap shots of
historic landmarks printed upon full flowing lampshade dresses. The mix of
print, structured shape and ornate detailing made the garments appeal ethereal
in their design and metallic shine added three dimensional movements.

Sleeves were varied wide brimmed lampshade cut offs, concave
to the body and hiding within the dress. The use of colours was varied they
were soft palette though no brash or bold colouring but subdued and carefully
mixed.

The sculptured designs such as tube panelled dress seemed to
protrude out at the top giving precise lines. Which was also seen on pleated
maxi dress the lines were perpendicular to one another in minute detail, the
dress appeared to glisten between the pleats.

I loved this collection it was ornate, modern, varied
colours and the lines mixed with print were striking.