Celebrating Beaujolais Nouveau 2016

In a depressing, semi-apocalyptic year defined by reactionary responses to globalism, it’s fair to ask ourselves what, exactly, we are celebrating, when we celebrate the annual release of Beaujolais Nouveau on Thursday.

Is Beaujolais Nouveau a symbol of international marketing run amok, an artificial wine-like confection of sugared-up, overproduced grapes, aimed straight at the lower rungs of the world’s supermarket shelves? Or does Beaujolais Nouveau represent rather the opposite: an homage to local tradition, a village fête for newborn wines, fragile and pure?

It depends where one celebrates. In liquor stores, chain wine shops, and supermarkets around the world, believe the worst about Beaujolais Nouveau. But Beaujolais Nouveau in Paris is something else. The city’s traditional bars and bistrots enjoy unparalleled access to France’s natural wine scene, where many winemakers manage to produce unadulterated primeur wines that retain the fleeting, keen flavors of their village origins.So in Paris in 2016 we can raise a glass to the ironic destiny of well-made Beaujolais Nouveau – a simple village wine that, merely by maintaining its simplicity, can become a curious luxury.

What follows is a list and map of the Paris establishments hosting Beaujolais Nouveau parties in 2016, along with whose wines they’ll be serving, and which winemakers, if any, are expected to be present for the occasion. (Nothing is guaranteed. Winemakers are like that.)

The annual “night before” party at La Robe et Le Palais on November 18, 2015. “Throw a stone and you’d hit one the pirates of the wine community.” Photo and quote by Michaël Dandrieux

Thursday November 17, 2016

Aaron’s Picks

Café de la Nouvelle Mairie (19 rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, 75005) Benjamin Fourty and Corentin Cucillat are the latest owners of this historic natural wine bar in the 5ème, which has changed hands over the course of its 20 years in business, but has always remained a destination for magnificent wine and simple bistrot cuisine. Saucisson au gène and a joue de boeuf will accompany the gypsy jazz of Paname Swing. Beaujo Nouveau by Guy Breton & Jean-Claude Lapalu. 7:30PM – 1:45AM. Reservations recommended for the dining room.

Beaujolais Nouveau at Café de la Nouvelle Mairie

Ma Cave de Fleury (77 impasse Saint-Denis, 75002) Morgane Fleury, the fairy godmother of natural Champagne, hosts a rollocking Beaujolais Nouveau party with wines from France Gonzalvez & Remi Dufaitre, along with vin primeur from the Rhône’s Marcel Richaud, and traditional fanfare music by the Charlots d’Eon. 7:00PM – around midnight.

La Crèmerie (9 rue des Quatres Vents, 75006) will be playing Nick Cave and PJ Harvey and pouring primeurs from Beaujolais producers Rémi Dufaitre, France Goncalvez & Jean-Pascal Sarnin & Jean-Marie Berrux, plus Henri Milan’s pure Mourvèdre from les Baux de Provence, Nicolas Carmarans’ ‘Fer Servadou’ from Averon, and ‘Octobre Rouge’ from JF Nicq. Reservations are usually required at this tiny wine bar, but not tonight. However, make this an early stop because they’re only open from 6:30-10:30pm.

Central Right Bank (Les Halles-Palais Royal)

Le Garde Robe (41 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001) They’ll be pouring Beaujolais Nouveau by France Goncalvez, Rémi Dufaitre, Sylvère Trichard and Stephan Durieu, along with copious bowls of onion soup, at this popular natural wine bar by the Louvre. Jambon and truffled purée will be available. Music, according to management, will depend on how rammed it gets inside the bar. 5:00PM – 2:00AM.

The Beaujolais Nouveau from Sylvère Trichard will be served by the magnum at Coinstot Vino (image via their FB page)

Juveniles (47 rue de Richelieu, 75001) Tim Johnston’s homey wine bistrot – now run by his daughter and son-in-law – will offer a Beaujolais-themed menu service for the evening. Reservations are a must. But the restaurant invites all and sundry for apéros until 8PM, featuring Johnston’s own cuvée of Beaujolais Nouveau by Pierre-Marie Chermette.

Le Grand 8 (8 rue Lamarck, 75018) This belovedly simple bistrot near Sacre-Coeur recently came under new ownership by restaurateur Emilie Pelletier, who formerly ran a popular restaurant in the Beaujolais town of Cercié. For the soirée of Beaujolais Nouveau she’s called on an accordeonist and the wines of Julien Merle, Jean-Claude Lapalu, and Rémi Dufaitre. Normal dinner service will be offered, but with the addition of oeufs meurettes and sabodet, a rich Lyonnais sausage.

Coureurs de Terroirs (14, rue de la Jonquière, 75017) caviste Sébastien Bercot seems to spend almost as much time in the Beaujolais as he does in his 17ème wine shop, which pays off in a spiffing selection from the greats of the region. For the release of Beaujolais Nouveau he’ll be offering tastes of a wide selection of wines, including primeurs from Rémi Dufaitre, Jean-Claude Lapalu, and Sylvère Trichard. From 10:30AM – 8:00PM.

La Cave de l’Insolite (30 rue de la Folie Mericourt, 75011) an accordion group will provide the music for a soirée featuring fried fish, ham, and two versions of sauerkraut, meat-based or fish-based. With Beaujolais Nouveau from Christophe Pacalet and Château Cambon. From 7:00PM.

Le Mary-Celeste (1 rue Commines, 75003) will be celebrating with winemakers Jean-Pascal Sarnin & Jean-Marie Berrux pouring their wines for 4€ per glass. Oysters priced at 1€ apiece between 6-8pm and live music. From 6pm to 1:30am.

Squatt (112 rue de la Roquette, 75011) this Italian-focused wine shop will be celebrating in its own way by pouring primeurs from Italy and holding a raffle to win a magnum of natural wine with proceeds to benefit victims of the earthquake in Umbria. From 6pm-12:30am.

Dune (20 rue Keller, 75011) for the soirée of Beaujolais Nouveau, this shape-shifting, freeform restaurant by the owners of Le Motel Bar will host chef Gareth Eoin Storey (ex Le Bal Café), who will serve small plates of terrines and offal to accompany the Beaujolais Nouveau of Rémi Dufaitre.

Southeast Paris (Aligre-Bercy)

Les Caves de Reuilly (11 boulevard de Reuilly, 75012) Owner Pierre Riouallon will be pouring Beaujolais Nouveau by Cyril Alonso, Jean-Claude Lapalu, Remi Dufaitre, and France Gonzalves. The cave-à-manger’s distant location should be more than made up for by its vast, never-ending terrace. 5€ entry. 5:00PM – 12:00AM.