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Since riding the Way of the Roses with my good friend Tim a couple of years ago, I’ve wanted to return to God’s Own Country for some more two-wheeled purgatory. Our time in the Dales – albeit brief – on this wonderful route was characterised by vertiginous climbs, incongruously dry karst scenery, formidable slabs of cake and rather excellent beer.

Quite a bit has happened since then. And while the distractions of
parenthood have been, at times, monopolising, the part of me that is constantly
planning the next trip has not fallen silent.

Loading the bike into the car on a sunny Monday morning, I had to confront an unfamiliar emotion – leaving the family behind. My work sees me away from home most weeks, but this was different. I was going away for fun, and somehow it seemed wrong that Sophie and Joe were not coming with me. Actually, I should be completely honest here: I was sad that Sophie wasn’t joining me. As much as I love taking the Surly Burley for a spin, it can be a bit limiting. I hope Soph and I can grab some time on the bikes together soon.

The descent to Dent – steep

The Yorkshire Dales Cycleway is a 130-mile route that takes in most of the major the dales in this lovely district. In the wake of the extension to the Dales Park in 2016, there is a longer route that visits Sedbergh and the grassy hummocks of the Howgills, adding 25 miles to the route. Given I had three days to spare, along with travel, I opted for the ‘standard route’. While 130 miles may not seem much, the route packs a punch boasting over 4,300 meters of climbing. For someone who hadn’t spent that much time on a bike on the last year or so, it represented a challenge.

With this in mind, I planned a three-day itinerary that provided a
relatively easy first day, with the parcours becoming
progressively more arduous. This meant starting in the village of Kettlewell in
Upper Wharfedale.

Day One – And
the going is easy

I parked in the large National Park car park in the village which has
the advantage of offering longer stay tickets – the older I get, prosaic
concerns such as car parking seem to matter more and more.

I was soon ready to roll and pushed off along a quite lane following the
easterly bank of the River Wharfe. Within approximately 35 seconds, I was
beaming. It felt so good to be on the bike again, revelling in the knowledge
that I would be doing precisely the same thing again tomorrow and the day
after.

The stern easterly being funnelled down the dale provided a few ‘bonus
watts’ to each pedal stroke and no doubt lightened my mood. Aeolus may have
been smiling on me now, but he wouldn’t tomorrow. I got a sampler of the
headwind to come while pedalling along the B6265 to re-join the route after
Bolton Abbey, in order to avoid retracing my wheel tracks. For the record, this
is not recommended. While the headwind was unpleasant, this B road is dogged by
heavy traffic and much of it seemingly piloted by impatient folk.

Picking up the route at Cracoe, I hoped one of its cafés would be open. Alas, no. I ended ducking under the beams in the Devonshire Arms for a lime and soda. The grumpy triumvirate at the bar meant I didn’t delay. This trio seemed game for a debate on cycle helmets and ‘road tax’ upon seeing me and while I was itching to deliver my soliloquy on these subjects, a little voice reminded me that I was on holiday and my blood pressure would thank me for the restraint.

Bugger!

I pushed on in search of chocolate-based calories. I was banking on the Town End farm shop and café being open. Why wouldn’t it be? First week of the Easter holiday for some and folk would now doubt be cramming into this establishment after it featured in TV’sTop of the Shop with chef and all-round Mr Nice Guy Tom Kerridge.

It was closed.

I only had myself to blame. A bit of research goes a long way.

All that remained was to push on to my overnight stop of Malham ahead of schedule and hope to find victuals. This came in the form of a rather limp and mean-looking cheese and pickle sandwich from the Old Barn Café washed down with plain old filter coffee (‘The machine’s broken!’)

Unmoved by this meagre offering, I went next door to the Buck where a pot of ‘Yerrkshuh’ tea and a slab of carrot cake were far more satisfactory.

Climbing out of Malham

Now late afternoon, and with time to kill before check in at the youth hostel, I went for a spin up one of Malham’s two climbs – hefty ramps that thread sinuous routes through the limestone pavement. Tim and I had plunged down one of these roads on the Way of the Roses causing Tim’s front disc to ‘melt’. I enjoyed the effort tackling it in the other direction, the low sun giving depth and texture to the scenery. I then walked the usually busy path to Malham Cove to find it empty, save for climber grappling with the limestone crags above. I sat listening to the river, now emerged once more after descending to a subterranean course a mile or so away at Water Sinks near Malham Tarn.

Some peace by the river

Day Two – Do
you know what really grinds my gears?

I can’t help feeling a wistful when I sit down to breakfast in a youth
hostel. While the quality of the fare may not be top notch, there is something
agreeably hearty and honest about the food on offer that takes me back to trips
as a teenager, walking the hills and cramming in the calories on a budget.

Stuffing pastries into my jersey pockets, a retrieved the bike, loaded my
simple luggage and headed for the climb to Malham Cove behind the hostel. This
is a reasonable challenge in anyone’s road book and the ascent got the blood
pumping. Yesterday’s easterly had gained additional legs overnight which made
the going much harder.

The gradient soon eased and I pedalled along a deserted single-track
road with the tarn to my right. It was glorious riding, given an added piquancy
with the knowledge that I would normally by sitting down to work at this time.

Kingsdale

The road dropped into a lonely valley at Sannat Hall Farm that required
some effort to ascend the far side. It then hit me that Tim and I had travelled
this road in the other direction two years previously. Then I had managed to
pedal up the steep climb that I had now tentatively descended – disc brakes
squealing in protest. There would be much more of this to come.

I soon reached Settle where I had a task to fulfil. Stupidly, I had
forgotten my phone charger and despite eking out the juice on my mobile since
discovering my cloth headedness, I needed a solution. I’m no slave to the
phone, but it’s now more important to keep in touch with home and, as an avid
ViewRanger user, I do like to use my device for navigation and route tracking.

It was market day in the town and I hoped that would mean a watch
battery/vaping/phone unlocking/screen protector/mobile case (delete as
appropriate) stall. I found said stall but the chap didn’t have a C-type mini
USB cable among his collection.

‘I really need a petrol station with a shop,’ I ventured. The helpful
stallholder pointed me in the right direction and I was soon on my way again
with a new universal power block and cable.

Heading in a roughly north westerly direction and following the southern boundary of the Park, the route takes a breather from the climbing for a while. This changes after Ingleton, though. Aware that harder yards were to come, I stopped at Bernie’s for, ahem, two cakes, coffee and tea. The stop also gave me an opportunity to charge the phone.

The route then climbs to Kingsdale and follows a north easterly course. Today, that meant I would be pedalling directly into the teeth of the wind that had been tapping me on the shoulder since Kettlewell. Described as a ‘moderate breeze’ in the forecast, it made the going arduous and reminded me of a particularly challenging day in Iceland a few years back.

Dent viaduct

Kingsdale provided a stunning backdrop to my labours, though. The country felt lonely here and I had the road to myself. In common with other sections of the Dales Cycleway, the route is gated which provided additional torment in the wind. I reached White Shaw Moss and plummeted into Deep Dale only to check my progress as the road took on an alarming gradient. Brakes and nerves tested, I arrived at the pretty village of Dent to find the recommended Meadowside café closing early as the owners were attending a funeral. I tried the Heritage Centre and was not disappointed. The grilled cheese and ham sandwich was a delight, washed down with yet more tea. Sometimes, all you want are the simple things done well.

I followed the route along beautiful Dent Dale, enjoying the peace offered by this altogether quieter valley. The imposing Dent viaduct soon loomed and the climbing started again to Newby Head Moss. Here, I had another flashback. Riding home from Scotland some years back I had travelled this way following an off road route to Horton in Ribblesdale. That had been a challenging but altogether amazing day, too.

From here, it was a simple descent to Hawes on the B6255… the road was full of heavy traffic and I was glad to reach the hostel.

On the climb to Newby Head Moss

Day Three –
Put your back into it

After embarrassing myself again at breakfast, I ventured outside the
sample the temperature. There had been a frost overnight and the frigid
morning air had me digging into my bike bags to find extra layers and gloves. I
headed along Wensleydale with two Buffs arranged ‘Ninja-style’ to keep my face
covered.

At Askrigg, the route would climb again and my legs were just about warm
when I reached the foot of this supposed 25% pull. The gradient is more like
18% according to the various hill-bagging cycle sites, but it’s a decent test nonetheless.
More important than the stats, it’s a really lovely ride but be ready for
another alarming descent into Swaledale at Crow Trees.

The climb from AskriggReaching the high ground

Here, the route heads east along the B6270 and, while quiet this
Wednesday morning, I know from previous experience this road can be busy in
peak season and for good reason as Swaledale is a lovely place to linger.
Fortunately, the Dales Cycleway crosses the river and picks up a narrow lane
the climbs the southerly slopes of the valley. Consulting the map, it is
possible to plot an alternative route that would avoid the B-route altogether.

I’d pedalled 20 miles or so by the time I reached Grinton and the need for coffee and cake was palpable. I headed off route to Reeth only to stumble on the Dales Cycle Centre (what did I say about too little research being a dangerous thing!?) Happily it was open, the coffee was superb as was the plum flapjack and ‘all-the -chocolate’ brownie. Highly recommended!

Nom, nom, nom etc

I spent half an hour or so in the café warming my extremities yet mindful of the obstacles that lay ahead. I reluctantly left and immediately felt the strain of the climb to Grinton Moor which felt more gradual and akin to the climbs back home in the Peak. Tumbling down the other site to Castle Bolton I screeched to a halt as a Dales Cycle Way sign pointed left to a farm gate. Checking the map, this was indeed correct and I pedalled along a lovely farm track that would have met the criteria of the Grass up the Middle folk.

From here, the route takes in pretty villages and leaves the National park for a wee while. The sun now shone as I entered Coverdale for the final hurrah of the route. The climb out of this dale and into Wharfedale once more is a stunning, seemingly remote pedal with just sheep and the odd adventurous motorists for company. I stopped at the Hunters Stone – just shy of the summit – and found a hollow in the hillside out of the wind to eat the remainder of my trail mix and sunbathe.

Hunters Stone

It was one of those wonderfully restorative experiences that you sometimes encounter on the hill; the wind whistling around you and yet you’re shielded from its pernicious intent. You have an overwhelming sense of presence and detachment from the daily grind that is mercifully going on somewhere else.

Aware that my trip would soon be over, I pedalled slowly over the summit
cattle grid and gingerly descended into Kettlewell. Here the route had one
final sting in the tail. The switchbacks at Park Rash need great care on
descent. This is a genuine 25% ramp and I treated it with great respect. With
brakes simmering, I dropped into Kettlewell for a celebratory ice cream.

In truth, this post has been prompted by a rather nice email I received earlier in the week politely wondering whether I’d drowned in a sea of soiled nappies. It reminded me that, while it’s obviously important to focus energies on the new family, one should not lose sight of the other things in life that give pleasure. It also made me reflect on those folk who may find escape reading about other people’s outdoor exploits, but are no longer able to participate themselves for whatever reason. So I’m grateful to that correspondent… I’ll try not to leave it so long next time!

The Surly-Burley ready to roll in the White Peak

OK, so thing shave been busy. While we still haven’t managed a camping trip as a family, we have been on numerous, lower key wanders and spent a couple of weeks north of the Arctic Circle in Norway. What a truly stunning country… look out for some hiking posts soon.

A major milestone for my partner Sophie and I was to get back on the bikes again, though. Our love of cycling brought us together in the first place, and we were keen to include Baby Joe in our pedalling adventures, albeit capped by some common-sense restraint.

In order for this to happen we needed a trailer and I set about the task of finding one with characteristic nerdy relish. Two candidates emerged from the wash – a Thule Chariot Cross and the Burley Solo. If the Thule is the Rolls Royce of the kid-ferrying world, then the Burley is the Land Rover Discovery. Both are very well equipped, but the Thule edges it in terms of engineering and completeness.

Considering the importance of the cargo, I was keen on dishing the dough on the Thule but then, while on a rare solo cycle sortie, I had the good fortune to fall in train with a cycling mum using the trailer on the Tissington Trail.

Cabin doors for take off – final preparations before our first ride in the Derwent Valley

I struck up a conversation and she very helpfully gave me an exhaustive review of the Thule. As expected, this looked a superb bit of kit with great weatherproofing and a very comfortable ride afforded by the reclining seat and suspension. However, my riding companion felt it a little on the cramped side – a particular considerations for Joe given he is clinging onto the very top of the baby growth chart (99.6 centile, I’m told).

As a result, I shifted my attention to the Burley and its considerably lower price tag. The immediate advantage here was the bowed side frame that would give Joe more elbow room. The seat and harness, while not as plush as the Thule, looked comfortable and offered some recline via rudimentary straps. Another plus points was the large space behind the seat for Joe’s gear.

Taking a break for lunch

I decided to pull the trigger and a very large box arrived at the house a few days later. Assembly was simple, and the instructions very clear. Soon, Joe was sitting in his new wheels and I was pulling him up the driveway. The smile on his face was a good start.

Before our first trip proper, I swapped the stock Burley tyres for Schwalbe Marathons – after seven years commuting across London on these ‘boots’ I knew they would be a reliable replacement. I also purchased a wheel set for the front of the trailer, which converts it to a stroller (these are included in the Thule chariot package).

Joe strollin’ in Suffolk

Then there was the subject of the hitch. The Burley Solo comes with a standard Burly steel hitch normally secured by the rear wheel’s quick release on regular framesets. My intention was to tow Joe with the Ogre and Surly-heads will know this frame features a do-everything-reasonably-well rear drop out. I was able to make use of one of the 10mm threaded holes intended for Surly’s proprietary hitch from its trailer range. I sourced an m10x1 bolt along with some spacers and lock washers. This may all sound a bit of a faff, but I run the Orge with a Rohloff and EX box and this causes clearance issues with trailer hitches. This solution may not be the most elegant, but it works really well. The trailer is off centre (the Burley is designed this way, anyway) and in practice it tows very well indeed.

A bit Heath Robinson? Maybe, but it works well.

In fact, on my first test run with a load of books in the trailer rather than Joe, I forgot I was hitched. This is no doubt testament to the low rolling resistance of those 20” wheels, the quality of the trailer design and the heft of the Ogre (officially, the world’s heaviest bike) that meant I just didn’t notice the Burley.

Our first family pedal was to the ever-popular Derwent Valley. I packed the Ogre and Sophie’s Sonder Camino in the back of the van and, after a quick fold and unhitching the quick release wheels, Joe’s trailer fitted in with plenty of room to spare. Folks with more regular family cars will have to get creative, though, no doubt enlisting the services of bike carriers, roof boxes and the like.

That first sortie was a real pleasure. Joe loved the novelty of his new wheels and after 15 mins or so, was happily snoring away. Bliss! It was great to see Sophie back on the bike again so soon after her pregnancy and she loved the sense of independence while I took care of the towing. We completed one slow circuit of the valley, taking our time and stopping for lunch.

It all fits!

This early success opened the floodgates somewhat. Numerous trips on the strade bianche of the White Peak have followed along with a glorious trip to Suffolk where we pedalled the quite lanes around Southwold. Here, the stroller wheels came into their own as we pedalled to pretty villages, parked the bikes and then were able to push Joe. The Burley solution is not as elegant as the Thule in this regard, but it still works well enough. Weather protection, while not as good as the Thule, has also proven to be satisfactory, although an additional rain cover can be purchased as an optional accessory.

Ideally, I would like to load the trailer up, the Ogre and Sophie’s Camino for a bike camping trip. We might just fit this in later in the year, although maybe a little distracted. The trip to Suffolk culminated in a pedal to Dunwich beach in balmy late Autumn sunshine where Sophie proposed, modern girl that she is!

Joseph, the new addition to the Northern Walker posse, has had one or two outdoors-lite experiences since he joined us in March. And in keeping with what has gone before in this blog, I already have one or two observations on kit.

Boots, baby and the ErgoBaby 360

Incorporating a little human into our albeit gentle forays into the Peak District and beyond has not been without incident – normally associated with what’s appearing out of Joe’s rear end. But Joe’s mum, Sophie, and I are living and learning and every day’s a school day.

Early adventuring saw us hiking in the gentle hills and dales near home. Joe was carried in an inherited ErgoBaby 360 carrier mounted on the front. This has proven to be an excellent carrier and Joe loves it, more often than not sleeping for two hours or more while mum and dad wander and natter. The disadvantage of this well-made baby lugger is that it runs warm, particularly for me. It’s also a little on the small side for anyone over six foot. Weather protection necessitates the purchase of additional rain covers and other accessories… or the resourceful addition of muslin cloths and clothes pegs to fend off the sun’s rays.

While airing a rather sweaty Joe after a more challenging bimble around Hathersage, Sophie decided to look for a cooler alternative and we shelled out on a recommended Beco Gemini Cool. This seemingly well-designed carrier will appeal to the lightweight backpackers out there with its use of hi-tech and lightweight materials allied to a strong and secure harness that, on first inspection, transfers weight well to the hips.

However, in practice, we couldn’t get on with this carrier. Joe never felt that secure and the harness proved to be too much of a faff. I’m sure this model works well for some parents, just not us when dealing with the realities of a wriggling child. Fortunately, we bought it from a vendor that allowed a trial period, a recommended safeguard covering purchases for fickle babies and their parents.

The advantages of carrying baby upfront are numerous. You can interact with your precious cargo and baby feels secure and calm, cosseted with a kind of in-utero security. However, there are limitations if you want to tackle more technical ground as you can’t see where you’re putting your feet. While many of these carriers can either be worn front or back (some side-on even), I feel the suggested method of fitting the Ergobaby in reverse is cumbersome and not overly secure. Again, if your little one is docile then I’m sure this works well but Joe is far too active to complete this deft move safely.

Enter a dedicated, rucksack carrier, then. After much research, I opted for an Osprey Poco AG. Expensive, heavy, but very well engineered. Rucksack-type carriers are recommended for babies six months and older but Joe is ahead of the game in terms of his physical development. This may seem a blinkered, new parent boast, but at 18lb 8oz ‘Big Joe’ already has great head control and can sit up. I hope to take this carrier for a test drive this week and will report back… let’s hope he likes it (!)

Glamping

Yurt life in Swaledale

Last month, I decided to take the new family away for a few days. While this fortuitously coincided with mum’s birthday, I felt we needed to celebrate making it this far as new parents (while only causing minor consternation for the health visitor).

My initial, perhaps optimistic, intention was to go camping. Everyone loves camping, don’t they? …and the boy would love it too! However, the new, somewhat risk-averse voice in my head that has started nagging since Joe arrived saw me find an easier alternative. I find this personal common sense revolution a little unnerving to be honest. I hope as I become more experienced with this baby lark, the slightly more adventurous self will return.

The safer alternative was to go glamping in a yurt in Yorkshire – Swaledale Yurts to be precise. I’d reconnoitered this destination before, both on bike and foot, and had been looking for an opportunity to visit. Suffice to say I can highly recommend it. The pleasant owners can cater for your every need if required while the remoteness of the location will allow you to disconnect for a while – always a good thing.

Joe failing to nap in his temporary home

As for Joe, I think he found his temporary home perhaps a little overwhelming. Although we tried to maintain his normal routine, I think our trip coincided with a major developmental spurt. This has subsequently been confirmed as the last few weeks have been characterised by variable moods and (very) disturbed sleep.

We managed a few gentle hikes in Swaledale, and it was really gratifying to see Joe experience new sights, smells and sounds when not feeding or having a minor huff.

All in all, the trip was mostly successful and it gave us confidence. And given we are heading to Norway in August, it’s confidence we’ll need.

Radio silence again I’m afraid, but this time with better reason. We have a new member of the Northern Walker clan: Joseph was born on 6th of March and weighed in at a hefty 9lb 2oz (he gets it from his dad, evidently… along with his winning smile).

I’m delighted to say mum and baby are doing well, and dad is becoming accustomed to his new role of botty cleaner and burpee initiator (no, not the leg- crunching exercises favoured by fellow-Joe, Mr Wicks).

I’ll admit I’ve been soul searching as to whether baby Joe was going to appear on these pages. However, Joe’s mum Sophie and I are very keen to keep on adventuring and include the wee man whether on foot or two wheels so we thought it might be helpful, and no doubt amusing, to share how we get on.

On that note, Joe has already been on a couple of gentle bimbles in the Derbyshire hills and he seems to enjoy it (well, he slept most of the time so that’s a win!). It’s a good start. In a couple of weeks I plan to leave him in the middle of Kinder Scout with a bag of beef jerky and a compass to see how he gets on (Attention sanctimonious, Daily Mail-devouring web trolls… This is, of course, a joke).

We do want to get responsibly adventurous, though. Mum and dad are planning some overseas tours so watch this space. Let’s just hope he likes the bike trailer when he gets a little older… and the kid’s seat on the back of the Surly ECR for some (very tame) singletrack!

I realise I’ve been quiet on here (again!) Rest assured, I didn’t decide to pedal off the side of the earth but life has taken yet another turn – a much happier one this time – and I’ve been distracted.

More news on this in the New Year.

That said, I haven’t been in hibernation. Just before said life-changing news broke, I acquired a mutant-friendly Surly Disc Trucker frame from those fine folks at Keep Pedalling. I’d planned some kind of roughish-stuff light tourer using this steel, something folk now like to call a ‘gravel bike’, or an ‘adventure bike’. I don’t buy this marketing garbage of course… it’s a touring bike, without mudguards.

I’m being a little disingenuous here, though. While modernist marketing may have me reaching for the sick bucket, post-modernist grumbling from those bearded tree- worriers at Surly does resonate. I’d wanted a Long Haul Trucker for a while just to remind myself how good a purpose-built, modern touring frame can be. So I decided to buy one, but eschewed the cantilevers in favour of some fancy rotor-rubbers.

The frame had been sitting in my spare room for nearly six months. A couple of weeks ago I reached that now-or-never stage of a build project when the small, mischievous voice inside my head says ‘sod it’ and I shake the Internet for bike components and burn the plastic.

The resulting new addition to the fleet has a name of course – Yorkie (boom boom!) – and I’m very happy with the result. I’ll post some more (betterer) pics when the weather improves in grizzly Glossopdale, but I include a build list for all you bike nerds out there (come on in, the water’s lovely).

Suffice to say, this bike is far more nimble than my heavyweight Ogre and is a joy to ride. The raked fork soaks up the bumps with aplomb while the overall compliance of the steel makes for a very comfy ride indeed. Things are far more taught than my rather splendid Bob Jackson, though, which is handy given my heft and the fact that I will be carrying bags on this bike at some point… no doubt in search of ‘multi-day adventures’ or ‘bikepacking’ if that’s what the cool kids are currently up to.

Despite the adventuring, the frame is in good condition as you can see in the pics.. It sports a very mild patina from those rides and many others, and the decals are obviously on their way out as is the Surly way. It also includes the cups from an FSA Orbit headset ready to take new bearings. Obviously, you could tap these out if you wanted to fit something else. The BB shell is faced too and ready to accept the bottom bracket of your choice. I’ve fitted a new black Surly seat post clamp. This colour frame looks great with black finishing kit hence the swap from the original silver. The fork steerer is uncut.

The Surly Troll really needs no introduction – it’s the do everything well bike. It makes a very good all-roads tourer, a rigid bikepacking rig, a single-speed MTB, a Rohloff based trailer puller, a fully-fendered commuter… I could go on. It has braze- ons for pretty much everything.

IMPORTANT NOTE: This is the ORIGINAL Surly Troll frame. It only has two sets of bottle cage mounts, NO Anything Cage mounts on the fork, but CAN be used with a suspension fork unlike the new model. Please check the specs on the original frame if you are in doubt. This frame will also suit the taller rider, although it was always a wee bit too small for me.

I am happy to pack the frame if the purchaser arranges carriage. Otherwise, I can deliver in Greater Manchester and the Peak District (within reason!) If you’re interested, please mail me using the Kontactr link.