READY-TO-WEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2017

Maison Margiela

John Galliano has finally got his ducks in a row at Maison Margiela. Tailoring and sport, texture and colour, giant bags and eye-popping sandals melded together to make a powerful mash-up of Margiela's make-do-and-mend with Galliano's visual extravagance.

Even the hair and make-up - with touches of vivid colour - and the digital headsets used as decoration, seemed to put the designer in the right position between the stylish and the extravagant.

The scene was a summer music festival - although that did not appear in the programme notes, surely these women walking purposefully down the runway were off on an intriguing path - perhaps scuba diving to match the pattern on their clothes.

The sense was of thrifty use of a small wardrobe, one that probably all fitted into the runway rucksack and then tied round the waist and flung over the hips - the shapes and colours melding like the garments.

It all made for a good, clear show, not trying too hard to send a message - but with intriguing and consolidated clothes.

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