Jointing Planes, are there smaller types available?

I see the reviews of the Lie Nielsen or I think originally Lee Valley 7 1/2 Low angle jointing plane which is for what I would call larger stock, Does anybody know if anybody produces a smaller jointer hand plane for like smaller woodworking pieces?
I see a few ways of making jigs up for smaller hand planes but was interested if smaller type jointing planes are or where ever produced? Or are there brackets out there that will attach?Thanks in advance

To answer your question here is a quote from “A Beginners Guide to Bench Planes – The Pocket Guide”

”It is very important to note however that these planes are designed to do these specific functions listed, but any plane can be set up to perform functions outside their designated roles. For instance a jointer can smooth, a smoother can be used to joint edges, and if the blade in a jack plane is not cambered and the jack plane tune accordingly, it can be used as a smoother.”

Almost any manufactured fence, modern or vintage will fit any bench plane down to a reasonable size. It’s not at all uncommon to find them on a #5.

To answer your question here is a quote from “A Beginners Guide to Bench Planes – The Pocket Guide”

”It is very important to note however that these planes are designed to do these specific functions listed, but any plane can be set up to perform functions outside their designated roles. For instance a jointer can smooth, a smoother can be used to joint edges, and if the blade in a jack plane is not cambered and the jack plane tune accordingly, it can be used as a smoother.”

Almost any manufactured fence, modern or vintage will fit any bench plane down to a reasonable size. It s not at all uncommon to find them on a #5.

- Don W

Ok , great , I guess that is what I was eluding to. Now the question is where can I buy a manufactured fence for my smaller hand planes? Kind Regards

ANTHM27 << Did the jack and fore planes come with a side mount fence for jointing? >>

Easy and cheap fix for this is to find an old wood for plane or jointer, flatten base square to left side and screw on a piece of 1/2 in plywood extending 2 or 3 inches below the face. glue a piece of 1/4 py along the inside of your new fenct so the blade extends to the edge of the face

2 methods that alleviate the need for a fence (but I do have the LV fence which works on all my Stanleys 4-7):

Panel glue up – book end the edges and joint together. An angle wont matter, they will mate. They need to be flat tho.

Joint single edge – clamp the board to a table laying so the joint edge faces to table center. Elevate the board a 1/4 inch or so, so when the plane is on its side the blade contacts the full width of the board edge. Place the plane on its side, like a shooting board, and joint away. Use the blade skew lever to get a square edge – thats what the skew adjustment is for.

The no. 6 “fore plane” ( originally intended to be used with a curved blade to hog off wood across the grain ) actually has better use today with the blade sharpened square and used as a jointer. As such it’s a good compromise between the no’s 5 and 7.

You can also buy or build a wooden planeand cut it to the length you want.

I’ve made several. It’s not that hard to do.I went over to iron planes because with woodplanes there’s daily adjustment needed because of humidity changes. Fine workcan be done with either. Veritas sells ahardware kit with a depth adjuster nowwhich would simplify working with a woodplane imo.

I see you’re mostly looking for a fence to attach to a plane to help with getting 90 degree edges. The Lee valley fence (and I think the vintage Stanley’s) will only work if the side of pour plane is reasonably square to the sole. So might want to check whatever plane you’re hoping to use it with.

However, for small stock, I find it is simplest to do what another commenter above mentioned, and simply math plane the pieces you are trying to joint. If you do that, the angle of the edge doesn’t matter, as the pieces will complement each other to result in a flat panel.

Instead of the hand wrapped around the front knob….I “hook” my thumb on the plane’s edge about where the knob is. The rest of the hand tucks under the plane’s sole, and a knuckle or two rub against the board. You can feel IF the plane tilts in either direction.

Depending on the length of the board being jointed…anywhere from a #5-1/4 up to the #8 can work. Need a lot of rough cuts to remove first? Run a cambered jack along the edge a few times….less work for the jointer to do. The jack will knock down the worst of the rough/high spots, then the jointer can clean things up.