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Tuesday

You will have to find it.While driving your vehicle has minimal vacuum it creates the most when idling or at a stop. You are having to give it gas to compensate for the car getting to much air. Check all the hoses that attach to the intake and check the intake use carb cleaner it works perfect.

You could be looking for a small hole or a large one. Next to your air filter is a MAF mass air flow meter. It tells the computer how much air is coming into the engine between the MAF and the O2 sensors in the exhaust there is a problem. Your computer is telling you that there is more air getting in somewhere more than what the MAF send signal to it. So this means if a vacuum leak is your problem which it most likely is.Its are sucking/getting more air either around the intake gaskets or around the vacuum lines going to the intake or around the throttle body or the sensors attached to it. Most of all the hoses on your engine are smaller than your thumb are vacuum lines. You need to spray carb cleaner all over the engine and around these hoses to find a leak. The rpms will increase when you hit a leak because the car will suck the carb cleaner in and use it as a fuel and it will rev slightly. There is no common area of failure and there is not a common part that fails. You will have to take it to a dealer to repair or find the problem yourself. I highly recommend you give it a shot before sending it to a technician.

Properly inspect if you find a leak in the Vacuum hose that goes to the pcv valve right at the elbow that plugs intothe intake?Not on the PCV valve side but on the other end. Also on top of that there is a clip that holds a lever in place ,see properly if that lever is ok or completely gone.

Those are your IMRC Actuator Rod Clips.

When you get a diagnostic trouble code P2195 and P2197,it does not necessarily mean that a sensor is bad or failed. This codes also means that the computer is not getting the signal, e.g. volts, ohms, amps, that it is programmed to expect.

There are many possible reasons for these,

It could be a failed sensor, but it could also be a bad connection, a short or an open wire, or the information is correct, e.g. a lean condition caused by a vacuum leak which would cause the oxygen sensor to not "switch" from rich to lean and back as often as is expected. The sensor would stay on lean and trigger the code. The same condition can, and often does, trigger more than one code.

This all has to be checked.

Basically in this types of cases,the problem here is most likely a large vacuum leak causing a lean air mixture. Most common (very common) are the crankcase ventilation hoses to crack or collapse causing a vacuum leak. Also, the air intake tubes crack and cause this problem. The clamps on the air intake tubes must be tight and secured properly to seal correctly. There are 2 of the crankcase ventilation tubes one to each valve cover. Inspect them closely looking for any cracks or holes. Make sure they are on as well. There are also a number of other vacuum hoses that can rip/tear causing vacuum leaks. All vacuum hoses are of little expense to repair. Other possibilities are a leaking intake gasket. These are common to fail as well. Intake gaskets can be a significant expense $300 to $400 depending on shop rates. It is unlikely that the oxygen (O2) sensors are causing this problem. The best way to diagnose this problem is using a smoke machine. This is a machine that releases smoke. By hooking up a smoke machine to the air intake, you can easily pinpoint any vacuum leaks.

The check engine light comes on because the computer misinterprets the O2 input. You need to have the PCM software updated.

The details for both the OBD error codes are as follows :----

P2195 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean

A HEGO sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.

A HEGO sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.

These codes mean you have lean codes on both sides of the engine most likely caused by a vacuum leak. If it is a large leak you will hear a hissing noise while idleing. To find small vacuum leaks while running spray carb cleaner around the intake and all the vacuum lines attached to the intake the full length of the hoses. A vacuum leak can start any where after the MAF to the cylinders.

Once repaired the vehicle will need to be cleared of faults by removing the negative battery cable for 15 minutes.

Monday

Bleeding

See below the details :-----

Raise the vehicle and support safely.

Manually turn the oil pump pulley a few times.

Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and to the right 5 or 6 times.

Disconnect the ignition high tension cable and, while operating the starter motor intermittently, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right 5-6 times for 15-20 seconds. During bleeding, make sure the fluid in the reservoir never falls below the lower position of the filter. If bleeding is attempted with the engine running, the air will be absorbed in the fluid. Bleed only while cranking.

Connect ignition high tension cable, start engine and allow to idle.

Turn the steering wheel left and right until there are no air bubbles in the reservoir. Confirm that the fluid is not milky and the level is up to the specified position on the gauge. Confirm that there is very little change in the fluid level when the steering wheel is turned. If the fluid level changes more than 0.2 in., the air has not been completely bled. Repeat the process.

Front

Raise the vehicle and support safely.

Manually turn the pump pulley a few times.

Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and to the right 5 or 6 times.

Disconnect the ignition high tension cable and, while operating the starter motor intermittently, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right 5-6 times for 15-20 seconds. During bleeding, make sure the fluid in the reservoir never falls below the lower position of the filter. If bleeding is attempted with the engine running, the air will be absorbed in the fluid. Bleed only while cranking.

Connect ignition high tension cable, start engine and allow to idle.

Turn the steering wheel left and right until there are no air bubbles in the reservoir. Confirm that the fluid is not milky and the level is up to the specified position on the gauge. Confirm that there is very little change in the fluid level when the steering wheel is turned. If the fluid level changes more than 0.2 in. (5mm), the air has not been completely bled. Repeat the process.

Rear

Bleed the front steering system.

Start the engine and let it idle.

Loosen the bleeder screw on the left side of the control valve and install special tool MB991230 to the bleeder.

Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, then immediately turn it halfway back. Confirm that air has discharged with the fluid.

Repeat Step 4 two or three times as required, to remove all air from the rear system. Stop the engine.

Loosen the power cylinder (rear steering gear) bleeder screw about 1 / 8 turn and install the same special tool with the rotation prevention metal fixtures to prevent the bleeder from opening more.

Start the engine and run to 50 mph to circulate the fluid.

Maintain a speed of 20 mph and turn the steering wheel back and forth. Air should be discharged through the tube of the special tool and into the oil reservoir.

Replace the O-rings and connect the pressure line. Connect the pressure line so the notch in the fitting aligns and contacts the pump's guide bracket. Tighten the nut that secures the pressure line to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).

Connect the return line.

Attach the pressure switch connector.

Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.

Disconnect the battery negative cable.

Drain the power steering fluid into a suitable container.

Remove the power steering drive belt.

Cover the A/C compressor or alternator, as applicable, with a shop towel, then disconnect the suction and pressure hoses from the power steering pump. Remove the gaskets.

Disconnect the return fluid line. Remove the reservoir cap and allow the return line to drain the fluid from the reservoir. If the fluid is contaminated, disconnect the ignition high tension cable and crank the engine several times to drain the fluid from the gearbox.

Remove the power steering pump drive belt.

Remove the pressure switch connector from the side of the pump.

If the alternator is located under the oil pump, cover it with a shop towel to protect it from oil.

Disconnect the high pressure hose and the return hose from the pump.

Remove the pump drive belt and unbolt the pump from its bracket and remove the pump.

To install:

Install the pump, wrap the belt around the pulley and tighten the bolts that secure the pump to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).

Replace the O-rings and connect the high pressure hose. Connect the pressure line so the notch in the fitting aligns and contacts the pump's guide bracket. Tighten the mounting nut with lockwasher to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).

Using a new hose clamp, connect the return line.

Attach the pressure switch connector.

Adjust the belt tension and tighten the adjusting bolts.

Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.

Fig. Exploded view of the power steering pump-Mirage

Drain the power steering system as follows:

Disconnect the return hose at the reservoir and place into a suitable container.

Disable the ignition system. While cranking the engine, turn the wheels several times, until system has been drained.

Disconnect the battery negative cable.

Remove the pressure switch connector from the side of the pump.

If the alternator is located under the oil pump, cover it with a shop towel to protect it from oil.

Disconnect the pressure line.

Remove the steering pump drive belt and the water pump pulley drive belt.

Remove the water pump pulley.

Remove the bolts that secure the oil pump, then remove the pump from its bracket.

To install:

Install the power steering pump and tighten the mounting bolts to specifications.

Replace the O-rings and connect the pressure line. Connect the pressure line so the notch in the fitting aligns and contacts the pump's guide bracket. Tighten the nut that secures the pressure line to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).

Connect the return line.

Attach the pressure switch connector.

Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.

2.4L Engine

Fig. Exploded view of the power steering pump-1994-00 Galant with 2.4L engine

Disconnect the battery negative cable.

Loosen and remove the power steering pump drive belt.

Remove the pressure switch connector from the side of the pump.

NOTE

If the alternator is located under the oil pump, cover it with a shop towel to protect it from oil.

Disconnect the return fluid line. Remove the reservoir cap and allow the return line to drain the fluid from the reservoir. If the fluid is contaminated, disconnect the ignition high tension cable and crank the engine several times to drain the fluid from the gearbox.

Disconnect the pressure line.

Unbolt and remove the pump from the mounting bracket.

To install:

Install the pump, wrap the belt around the pulley and lightly tighten the mounting bolts.

Replace the O-rings and connect the pressure line. Connect the pressure line so the notch in the fitting aligns and contacts the pump's guide bracket. Tighten the fitting to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).

Connect the return line and secure with the clamp.

Attach the pressure switch connector.

Adjust the power steering belt for proper tension and tighten the adjusting bolts.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.

Fig. Exploded view of the power steering pump-1999-2003 Galant with 2.4L engine

Disconnect the battery negative cable.

Loosen and remove the power steering pump drive belt.

Remove the pressure switch connector from the side of the pump.

NOTE

If the alternator is located under the oil pump, cover it with a shop towel to protect it from oil.

Disconnect the return fluid line. Remove the reservoir cap and allow the return line to drain the fluid from the reservoir. If the fluid is contaminated, disconnect the ignition high tension cable and crank the engine several times to drain the fluid from the gearbox.

Disconnect the pressure line.

Unbolt and remove the pump from the mounting bracket.

To install:

Install the pump, wrap the belt around the pulley and lightly tighten the mounting bolts.

Replace the O-rings and connect the pressure line. Connect the pressure line so the notch in the fitting aligns and contacts the pump's guide bracket. Tighten the fitting to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).

Connect the return line and secure with the clamp.

Attach the pressure switch connector.

Adjust the power steering belt for proper tension and tighten the adjusting bolts.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.

3.0L Engine

Disconnect the battery negative cable.

Disconnect the return fluid line. Remove the reservoir cap and allow the return line to drain the fluid from the reservoir. If the fluid is contaminated, disconnect the ignition high tension cable and crank the engine several times to drain the fluid from the gearbox.

Remove the power steering pump drive belt.

Remove the pressure switch connector from the side of the pump.

If the alternator is located under the oil pump, cover it with a shop towel to protect it from oil.

Disconnect the high pressure hose and the return hose from the pump.

Remove the pump drive belt and unbolt the pump from its bracket and remove the pump.

To install:

Install the pump, wrap the belt around the pulley and tighten the bolts that secure the pump to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).

Replace the O-rings and connect the high pressure hose. Connect the pressure line so the notch in the fitting aligns and contacts the pump's guide bracket. Tighten the mounting nut with lockwasher to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).

Using a new hose clamp, connect the return line.

Attach the pressure switch connector.

Adjust the belt tension and tighten the adjusting bolts.

Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.

Disconnect the battery negative cable.

Disconnect the return fluid line. Remove the reservoir cap and allow the return line to drain the fluid from the reservoir. If the fluid is contaminated, disconnect the ignition high tension cable and crank the engine several times to drain the fluid from the gearbox.

Remove the power steering pump drive belt.

Remove the pressure switch connector from the side of the pump.

If the alternator is located under the oil pump, cover it with a shop towel to protect it from oil.

Disconnect the high pressure hose and the return hose from the pump.

Remove the pump drive belt and unbolt the pump from its bracket and remove the pump.

To install:

Install the pump, wrap the belt around the pulley and tighten the bolts that secure the pump to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).

Replace the O-rings and connect the high pressure hose. Connect the pressure line so the notch in the fitting aligns and contacts the pump's guide bracket. Tighten the mounting nut with lock washer to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).

Using a new hose clamp, connect the return line.

Attach the pressure switch connector.

Adjust the belt tension and tighten the adjusting bolts.

Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.

3.8L Engine

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the power steering drive belt.

Disconnect the pressure switch connector electrical connector.

Disconnect the supply and return hoses and gaskets.

Disconnect the stabilizer links.

Turn the steering wheel fully to the left.

Remove the power steering pump mounting bolts.

Remove the power steering pump.

Installation is the reverse order of removal. Torque the power steering pump mounting bolts to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm).

Front

Fig. Exploded view of the power steering pump-Diamante

Disconnect the battery negative cable.

Disconnect the return fluid line. Remove the reservoir cap and allow the return line to drain the fluid from the reservoir. If the fluid is contaminated, disconnect the ignition high tension cable and crank the engine several times to drain the fluid from the gearbox.

Remove the power steering pump drive belt.

Remove the pressure switch connector from the side of the pump.

If the alternator is located under the oil pump, cover it with a shop towel to protect it from oil.

Disconnect the high pressure hose and the return hose from the pump.

Remove the pump drive belt and unbolt the pump from its bracket and remove the pump.

To install:

Install the pump, wrap the belt around the pulley and tighten the bolts that secure the pump to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).

Replace the O-rings and connect the high pressure hose. Connect the pressure line so the notch in the fitting aligns and contacts the pump's guide bracket. Tighten the mounting nut with lockwasher to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).

Using a new hose clamp, connect the return line.

Attach the pressure switch connector.

Adjust the belt tension and tighten the adjusting bolts.

Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.

Rear

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Drain the power steering fluid.

Remove the rear power steering pump heat protector, located on the engine side of the differential on the transaxle.

Disconnect the pressure line from the pump.

Disconnect the suction hose from the pump.

Remove the mounting bolts and remove the pump from the transaxle.

The installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the mounting bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).

Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.

CAUTION

Extreme caution should be taken when testing the rear steering pump. Ensure that the vehicle is supported safely and that all components are torqued to specification prior be testing.