The wattage is not critical, 1/2 watt will do although it'll run hotter. 470 Ohms just draws 0.025 amps, that's only 0.3 watts. The reason why I specify a 1 watt resistor is simply because it will work cooler and also the 1 watt resistors are a little bit larger and sturdier than smaller ones, strictly speaking a 1/2 watt one would do.

More than 1 watt will be OK as well, 2 watt, etc.

The value and type of construction are not critical either, they can be carbon, film, wire-wound, etc. Richm in the post below used 430 Ohms made up of a 1W 330 Ohm and 1W 100 Ohm resistors in series:

The value could also be lower 430, 390 Ohms, etc but note that the lower you go the more current will flow through it and the wattage will have to be higher to match. There are all sorts of possibilities, for example wiring two 1000 ohms in parallel would result in a resistance of 500 ohms.

anjmsar9 asked about resistor values so I assume he already knows about other alternatives:

The best one would be removal of the entire system and disabling the MIL light by using software such as TuneECU. The other is, as you say, leaving just the solenoid in place.

Agreed! I know about the other alternatives but I wanted to keep everything clean under the tank. As of now I don't have access to TuneECU as I have Apple Mac computer! and ultimately I will be loading TTP custom tune once I have done the ARK with DNA pods and O2 removal but for now resistor will have to do. I kept the whole AI unit intact in case I have to stick it back on.
Cheers All

Agreed! I know about the other alternatives but I wanted to keep everything clean under the tank. As of now I don't have access to TuneECU as I have Apple Mac computer! and ultimately I will be loading TTP custom tune once I have done the ARK with DNA pods and O2 removal but for now resistor will have to do. I kept the whole AI unit intact in case I have to stick it back on.
Cheers All

Thanks to everyone that replied. I did read a lot of stuff on here and did do all the mods I still cannot get the MIL Light out! Will take a while maybe this weekend to use TuneBoy again, It doesn't like the cold (computer and Bike battery) need to put the heater on for a while.
I did ask a few more questions and let people know how it went etc. and cannot find where I posted it lol.

Everything seems fine. did manage a test drive and there was popping etc. on decel,
looks like I will have to take the pipes off and put more of the red stuff in there to seal it better!

the pipes look and sound terrific, there was a definite increase in power I didn't notice the snatchiness so it could be better, it was pretty cold, Canada eh, lol.

I had to plug into the bike twice and connect to the Tune ECU program. It wasn't entirely clear that I had to download the map, click off the SAI box, save the map and then upload it back to the bike. Try again and you should be good.

On my 2012 T100 I just installed BC Sleepers and used their AI removal kit to take off all the AI including the solenoid. My intent (for now) was to get a dealer re-map after the install which I presumed would turn off the expected error light.

Got the re-map this morning, but the dealer said I have to put the solenoid back on to turn off the error light. He also said putting it back on now may or may not turn off the light, and I may or may not have to get mapped again.

I asked him about unchecking/disabling the SAI when they loaded in the map, which he said they did, but I still have to have the solenoid in place to keep the error light from coming on.

That sound right? I didn't leave the solenoid on or add a resistor as I thought unchecking SAI in the new map accomplished the same thing (no MIL). Dealer said that's how they always do it, and never get an error light when leaving the solenoid on (and I'm thinking "well, yeah").

Have also noticed since that re-map this morning, that the bike doesn't start like it used to...takes two or three pushes of the starter button before it turns over, and won't stay running unless I hold on the throttle a bit or pull out the assist, which I've never had to do before.

None of what your dealer said is true. You don't need to leave the solenoid in place to turn off the check engine light. Many, many people on this forum (including me) have proven that true. He simply didn't do it correctly. I would go back and tell him you've researched it and there is absolutely no reason to leave the solenoid on the bike. If he says no, I wouldn't trust him to service my bike.

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