Quick Links

master class continued Shape the inside of the spirals greater control. You can find them at old tool sales, or regrind an old gouge. You’ll need one whose sweep is slightly greater than the diameter of the spiral you’re carving. With the spirals roughly cut to shape, it’s time to sand. Because you will not turn the lathe on, it’s safe to use cloth-backed abrasive cut into strips. Start with P80-grit and work up to P180-grit paper. Reveal the center hole and refine the spirals. The workpiece becomes much weaker once you break into the drill hole. To reduce the risks of cracking a spiral, use a rasp when breaking through (above). Taking light cuts, delicately shape the insides of the spirals (right). Turn the other parts and apply a finish Once everything is sanded to final smoothness, faceplate-turn the base, and spindle-turn the candle holder/wax cup. I turn a 3⁄8-in. tenon on the bottom of the wax cup to glue into the main shaft. I attach the base with a spindle-turned 3⁄8-in. dowel of the same wood I used for everything else. Apply a coat of Minwax Antique Oil Finish and sand it in with P220-grit sandpaper. Sanding the wet oil ensures good bonding between coats and forms a slurry of wood dust and oil that fills the pores. When the finish is slightly tacky, wipe it with a clean cloth until almost dry. Repeat the steps with P320grit, and finish with P400-grit. Aim for a very smooth, glossy surface but not a shiny, plastic look. • Tip: Work on boTh sides of The laThe When cutting a left-hand spiral or certain sections of a right-hand spiral, it is easiest to move the tool rest and work from the back of the lathe. Sand and finish on the lathe. With the lathe off, begin sanding the spirals with cloth-backed P80-grit sandpaper. The best method is to tear the abrasive into strips known as shoelaces (above). Wipe on an oil/varnish mix and sand it into the wood to create a smooth, medium-luster finish (below). 100 F I N E WO O dWO R k I N g