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Yes. I have sent an email to Piero. This issue first happened to me when he sent beta 50.11. I sent him an email with me issues then. He responded back with:
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Hello David. The only way to verify the fixes is to load 50.12 which we believe has fix most if not all reported issues. I would advise to first set the unit to factory defaults ( General Config Menu) and disconnect any HDMI connections to the processor before loading 50.12.
Thanks

Piero
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I then followed up with this on Saturday:

Piero,
I reset MRX (TUNER button and pressed POWER), disconnected all HDMI inputs and outputs and updated to the current version on your website (50.12). Same results. As soon as I set my SAT input to HDMI 1, the MRX has an issue. If I disconnect the HDMI output the display on the MRX seems to show a steady 1080I (output of cable). Same results with Blu-ray on HDMI 2. I did not make any adjustment to video choices so I assume output was set to AUTO. It doesn't happen with 50.04. I tried different HDMI cables and inputs on the TV and same results. Please respond because I have been keeping the MRX with the expectation that the new software would make it better. Right now I am disappointed.

========
Hopefully he will respond back with a plan to try. I did not post this to cause alarm and say there is a issue. I have not read about anyother person having problems. I am just looking to get other peoples experiences and see if I am doing something wrong. When I first got the MRX I updated to 50.04 so I don't think I am doing anything wrong with the update procedure. After updating the unit shows it has 50.12 installed.

I tried to update to 50.12 but cannot get HDMI output(video and audio). The MRX display cycles from 1080I (satellite input resolution) and to blank. The TV shows the same thing. The blu-ray input (HDMI2) does the same thing. I had not changed any video setting so I assume the MRX was set to AUTO. So I then did a Tuner and Power reset and reinstalled. The video was normal until I assigned the MRX SAT input (HDMI1) and then same results. I have tried different cable and TV inputs. Same results. If I unplug the HDMI out the MRX displays a steady 1080I so I assume it is outputting video also. The audio is steady then. Any suggestions would be great. Am I doing something wrong how I am updating? I had been running 50.04 without this issue. Is there something new with 50.12 that I need to change a setting that was different from 50.04? For now I have reinstalled 50.04 but this can't be a long term solution. Thanks.

Sorry for the confusion . I am hesitant to try the upgrade until someone addresses the above quoted post.

Sorry for the confusion . I am hesitant to try the upgrade until someone addresses the above quoted post.

I understand your hesitation. However, at this point, this is a signal incident that is most likely specifically related to his MRX or something that has been overlooked on his configuration.

There have been many Beta testers as well as users who waited for the final release who have upgraded to 5.12 and not had an issue. I would recommend that if you are expereincing any of the issue addressed in 5.12 that you go ahead and upgrade. Worst case you would need to down grade back to 50.04 (though I'd bet money it all goes smoothly as it has for almost every other MRX user).

I agree with what you are saying. Any Idea what configuration error I could look for?? Has something changed with 50.12 I am missing?? What setting comes to mind? Any help would be appreciated.

Off of the top of my head, no. I would make sure CEC is off on the MRX as that is new. Also, even with CEC off, other devices may detect its presence so I would see if there is an option to turn CEC off on the Sat devices where you are having an issue, just as a percaution that it is not trying to communicate with CEC on. Note, each manufacture has a different name for CEC... so to figure out what you need to turn off, the following may help you:

I would also see what happens if you assign your Sat device to another source instead of sat (as it appears this is where your problems begin if I'm following you correctly). If the problem changes to the source input button... I would directly look at the HDMI cable and settings for that device. Perhaps even try configuring that devices NOT to use the 'Auto' Video profile but force it to an appropriate resolution or try it on "through".

I think as you are having a very specific issue, Anthem's experts will be the best to assist you. If the problem appears to be related directly to the Sat Device you have, it may be a very specific communications issue between the two devices. If you find that your Sat devices is working fine on another Source input (say BDP) and that when you assign another devices like your BDP to the Sat source you see the problem... theny that would be important feed back to give Anthem. Also if it looks like it is the Sat device and MRX that are having issues... be sure you take your troubleshooting one step further and change the HDMI input on the MRX that the Sat device is using... if the problem goes away... see if connecting say your BDP to that HDMI input cause the BDP to now have a similar issue.

And of course (though I think you are already doing this) make sure you try changing out the cable on the problematic device and that there is no strain, twisting, sharp angles of any of the HDMI cables.

I was getting a lot of video noise and bad handshaking at times between the MRX300 from the PS3/BR and PC. I went from 50.04 to 50.12 and its helped.. but i've seen it since. I had no issue with the upgrade.
I've given up on ARC as I believe its gone as far as it can go because I try as I may, I can't get my sub to look picture perfect. I'm having pros come over in a few weeks to tweek my projector and sound and screen all at once.
Nathan

Off of the top of my head, no. I would make sure CEC is off on the MRX as that is new. Also, even with CEC off, other devices may detect its presence so I would see if there is an option to turn CEC off on the Sat devices where you are having an issue, just as a percaution that it is not trying to communicate with CEC on. Note, each manufacture has a different name for CEC... so to figure out what you need to turn off, the following may help you:

I would also see what happens if you assign your Sat device to another source instead of sat (as it appears this is where your problems begin if I'm following you correctly). If the problem changes to the source input button... I would directly look at the HDMI cable and settings for that device. Perhaps even try configuring that devices NOT to use the 'Auto' Video profile but force it to an appropriate resolution or try it on "through".

I think as you are having a very specific issue, Anthem's experts will be the best to assist you. If the problem appears to be related directly to the Sat Device you have, it may be a very specific communications issue between the two devices. If you find that your Sat devices is working fine on another Source input (say BDP) and that when you assign another devices like your BDP to the Sat source you see the problem... theny that would be important feed back to give Anthem. Also if it looks like it is the Sat device and MRX that are having issues... be sure you take your troubleshooting one step further and change the HDMI input on the MRX that the Sat device is using... if the problem goes away... see if connecting say your BDP to that HDMI input cause the BDP to now have a similar issue.

And of course (though I think you are already doing this) make sure you try changing out the cable on the problematic device and that there is no strain, twisting, sharp angles of any of the HDMI cables.

Thank for the suggestions. I will try them. I probably didn't make it clear before but the problem is the same whether I try the Motorola DVR on HDMI1 or the Sony Blu-ray on HDMI2. The problem seems to occur when the HDMI out is connected to the TV. I did try looking at the TV manual and there is no refference to CEC or anything like it.

Do I have to apply the updates in a particular order?
What is multimedia upgrade? Does this need to go before v50.12?

I have all my Paradigm speakers hooked up to the receiver.
I have not done any setup yet.
I am sending BluRay movie into the receiver via HDMI. When movie is playing the display on the receiver shows PCM 2.0.
I don't hear any sub activity.

I have a lot to learn about Anthem and ARC tool. Is there a quick setup I can do that will enable all my speakers. I just want to make sure all the speakers are working and connected.
I will do detailed setup at a later time.

Do I have to apply the updates in a particular order?
What is multimedia upgrade? Does this need to go before v50.12?

I have all my Paradigm speakers hooked up to the receiver.
I have not done any setup yet.
I am sending BluRay movie into the receiver via HDMI. When movie is playing the display on the receiver shows PCM 2.0.
I don't hear any sub activity.

I have a lot to learn about Anthem and ARC tool. Is there a quick setup I can do that will enable all my speakers. I just want to make sure all the speakers are working and connected.
I will do detailed setup at a later time.

Thanks

First install the Main firmware 50.12. Uncompress the file first.
Now install the Multi Media update 1.1.0 using a usb stick. Plug it into the front usb port and hit multimedia on the remote until you see usb. It will ask if you want to install the update, say YES. You have to uncompress the downloaded file first of course.

Install ARC from the CD that came with your MRX. Then download the 3.02 version and install it over the cd version. You microphone files should be in the correct directory after this.

How many speakers do you have? Use the Quick setup to designate the number of speakers. This should allow them to be recognized. If you have an odd number such as 3, then only by running ARC with 3 speakers selected, will they work.
John

Thank for the suggestions. I will try them. I probably didn't make it clear before but the problem is the same whether I try the Motorola DVR on HDMI1 or the Sony Blu-ray on HDMI2. The problem seems to occur when the HDMI out is connected to the TV. I did try looking at the TV manual and there is no refference to CEC or anything like it.

Who makes the TV, what kind of TV is it? The names manufactures give to CEC look nothing like they would be related.

Do I have to apply the updates in a particular order?
What is multimedia upgrade? Does this need to go before v50.12?

I have all my Paradigm speakers hooked up to the receiver.
I have not done any setup yet.
I am sending BluRay movie into the receiver via HDMI. When movie is playing the display on the receiver shows PCM 2.0.
I don't hear any sub activity.

I have a lot to learn about Anthem and ARC tool. Is there a quick setup I can do that will enable all my speakers. I just want to make sure all the speakers are working and connected.
I will do detailed setup at a later time.

Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayray

First install the Main firmware 50.12. Uncompress the file first.
Now install the Multi Media update 1.1.0 using a usb stick. Plug it into the front usb port and hit multimedia on the remote until you see usb. It will ask if you want to install the update, say YES. You have to uncompress the downloaded file first of course.

Install ARC from the CD that came with your MRX. Then download the 3.0.2 version and install it over the cd version. You microphone files should be in the correct directory after this.

How many speakers do you have? Use the Quick setup to designate the number of speakers. This should allow them to be recognized. If you have an odd number such as 3, then only by running ARC with 3 speakers selected, will they work.
John

Note, before you upgrade anything... first check the version of what is installed (sounds like you know how to do that as you have already seen that the MRX is on 50.08)... most likely it is already running the latest Multimedia firmware in which case there is no need to update it again!

Same goes for ARC, check the about menu. If your MRX shipped with v50.08 of firmware (in otherwords from the factory, not something the dealer put on there) then there is a chance the CD that shipped has the latest version of ARC as well.

As Jayray said, install the shipped CD first. Then check the version number, if it is older than 3.0.2, download and install over your current installation.

I have to say, Hitachi is the only one who just simply stuck with what it is when they named it! Guess Marketing got involved everywhere else

Just to update Anthem (Piero) was very good about calling me back. We discussed options and he gave me things to try. He thought it sounded like a handshake issue and likely CEC related. I verified that the CEC is off and I tried setting the output from AUTO to all of the other choices. I tried all of the things suggested and still no good. Hopefully I will talk to him tomorrow and see what else can be tried. Tigger! you asked TV brand. It is a Sharp LC-46SB57UN.

Just to update Anthem (Piero) was very good about calling me back. We discussed options and he gave me things to try. He thought it sounded like a handshake issue and likely CEC related. I verified that the CEC is off and I tried setting the output from AUTO to all of the other choices. I tried all of the things suggested and still no good. Hopefully I will talk to him tomorrow and see what else can be tried. Tigger! you asked TV brand. It is a Sharp LC-46SB57UN.

Sounds like Piero is actively working with you, he is great to work with. As CEC is new to the firmware, it does make sense to start there (that was my gut instinct as well). Always bound to be a few gotcha's with complex features like CEC!

1) Place your sub in your listening position (literally)
2) Take your ARC mic, in Quick Measure Mode and walk around the room sampling areas where you could put the sub.
3) Once you find the best looking graph with Quick Measure, swap the Sub and the Mic positions. Believe it or now, they should look almost the same!

This does require somehow getting the speaker to your listening position... and then of course back to where it needs to go, but it could be easier than moving it around your room a lot!

Hi Tigger,

I have a MRX300 still sitting in it's box (I'm finishing my room off....)
The above sounds like a simpler soultion that hauling a heavy sub around the room....

2 questions on using this sub measuring method:
Q1) Does the ARC software/graph automatically update when you reposition the mic or do I need to press a specific button to get it to refresh?

Q2) Surely this method will not cover for wall reflections with the sub?
I'm not sure it that the correct terminology, but do Subs not generate bloated bass when in certain postions near a wall?
I am not trying to be negative about the process, it seems a great idea - I'm just curious?

Q2) Surely this method will not cover for wall reflections with the sub?
I'm not sure it that the correct terminology, but do Subs not generate bloated bass when in certain postions near a wall?
I am not trying to be negative about the process, it seems a great idea - I'm just curious?

Subs experience reinforcement when positioned near a wall, or several walls. That is, you get the sound coming at you directly from the sub, and also bouncing off the wall right beside the sub.

A similar thing happens if you (or your mic) are positioned next to the wall. You get the sound from the sub and the sound bouncing off the wall from the sub.

That's basically why the whole idea works in the first place: the paths the sound is taken are (roughly) symetric. If you switch positions, you're still experiencing the same reinforcements, the same cancellations, the same standing wave effects. It's not perfect, of course, but it's a lot easier than dragging a 100+ lb sub around the room, and it gives a pretty good estimation.

Subs experience reinforcement when positioned near a wall, or several walls. That is, you get the sound coming at you directly from the sub, and also bouncing off the wall right beside the sub.

A similar thing happens if you (or your mic) are positioned next to the wall. You get the sound from the sub and the sound bouncing off the wall from the sub.

That's basically why the whole idea works in the first place: the paths the sound is taken are (roughly) symetric. If you switch positions, you're still experiencing the same reinforcements, the same cancellations, the same standing wave effects. It's not perfect, of course, but it's a lot easier than dragging a 100+ lb sub around the room, and it gives a pretty good estimation.

The main difference is that you are unlikely to position the sub at seated ear height while doing this!

But since the biggest part of the problem in sub positioning is usually in the horizontal dimension this approach works well.

In bass frequencies, even inches matter. So having found a good candidate location for the sub in this fashion, put it there, put the mic back at the listening position, and try rotating/shifting the sub a bit to find the best orientation/location close to that original candidate location (as shown by the real time, Quick Measure curve). Also move the mic around to the different ARC mic positions and look at the variation in sub Quick Measure response. Mentally average these changes and use the sub position/orientation which appears to give you the most uniform response across the ARC mic positions.

Concentrate most on eliminating significant dips, as it is tougher for ARC to fill in a dip than to cut down a peak. Treat any roll off at the low and high bass ends as a dip. A position that gives you better extension to the low and high ends is good. Don't worry about it being too good as ARC can attenuate any excess.

NOTE: The red Measured curve the ARC charts show for any speaker, including the sub, after an ARC Measurement pass, is a simple, unweighted average of the raw data from each of the ARC mic positions.
--Bob

The main difference is that you are unlikely to position the sub at seated ear height while doing this!

But since the biggest part of the problem in sub positioning is usually in the horizontal dimension this approach works well.

In bass frequencies, even inches matter. So having found a good candidate location for the sub in this fashion, put it there, put the mic back at the listening position, and try rotating/shifting the sub a bit to find the best orientation/location close to that original candidate location (as shown by the real time, Quick Measure curve). Also move the mic around to the different ARC mic positions and look at the variation in sub Quick Measure response. Mentally average these changes and use the sub position/orientation which appears to give you the most uniform response across the ARC mic positions.

Concentrate most on eliminating significant dips, as it is tougher for ARC to fill in a dip than to cut down a peak. Treat any roll off at the low and high bass ends as a dip. A position that gives you better extension to the low and high ends is good. Don't worry about it being too good as ARC can attenuate any excess.

NOTE: The red Measured curve the ARC charts show for any speaker, including the sub, after an ARC Measurement pass, is a simple, unweighted average of the raw data from each of the ARC mic positions.
--Bob

Obsidians - thanks for your reply, that makes sense now

Hi Bob,
thanks for that additional tweaking guide and confirming it’s a real-time data feed .
I’ll be using a single 3 seater sofa as primary listening position..
Should I focus on that location when doing the final tweaks you have suggested?

...
Q1) Does the ARC software/graph automatically update when you reposition the mic or do I need to press a specific button to get it to refresh?
...

Yes, if using Quick Measure, as you move the mic, the graph will update in near real time (it needs to complete a couple of sweeps in each location before it updates). Usually I find that if I set the mic down and walk back to my laptop, the curve is just updating. If you have hitched your laptop up to your 70" TV so you can see it across the room... you may have to wait a second for a couple of sweeps before it updates

Quote:

Originally Posted by sneill

Obsidians - thanks for your reply, that makes sense now

Hi Bob,
thanks for that additional tweaking guide and confirming it’s a real-time data feed .
I’ll be using a single 3 seater sofa as primary listening position..
Should I focus on that location when doing the final tweaks you have suggested?

Obsidians and Bob provided great advice. I'm glad they had a chance to jump in and fill in the gaps I left out! There are some people on here with great knowledge and are great at explaining things as well. Always great when one of them is around to help the rest of us out!

For your last question, yes focus on the main seating position and the two alternate locations when tweaking... as that is where you plan to enjoy listening!

Hi Bob,
thanks for that additional tweaking guide and confirming it's a real-time data feed .
I'll be using a single 3 seater sofa as primary listening position..
Should I focus on that location when doing the final tweaks you have suggested?

Decide which mic positions you are going to use for ARC Measurement (i.e., to sample your seating area). When locating the candidate sub position use ARC mic position #1 -- the central mic position. Refine the sub position by experimenting with sub orientation and shifting near that candidate position to see what benefit such small shifts might give you. That's a good point to start moving the ARC mic around to see which sub placement gives you the most uniform response across the set of mic positions. It is probably sufficient to test just the #1 position and the two outer positions on either side. Quick Measure updates in real time, but give it a few cycles to settle down after you move the sub or move the mic. I.e., just leave Quick Measure running, move the mic, and wait a few sweeps before believing the chart.
--Bob

Anybody have experience driving Dynaudio Focus with the mrx700? It is om my short list along with the Arcam avr400. Sound quality is my only concern. It will have to power Focus 140 standmounts and a 200c center. No surrounds at the moment. All of the speakers are 4ohm.

I am new Anthem user and struggling to do basic things a receiver can do.
I haven't run arc yet because I am waiting for the keyspan adapter to arrive.
My firmware is 40.08 and I cannot update it due to lack of adapter.
I also have Anthem MCA-30 driving my LCR speakers.

My current Blu Ray player is Panasonic DMP-BDP310 but my new Oppo 93 will be delivered today.

I have not been able to get any sound into the sub woofer.
First I found out that default settings in the Panasonic were to downgrade 2 channel PCM. I changed its setting to bitstream and Anthem receiver started showing Dolby 3/2 when I played Casino royale.

I don't hear any sound coming out of the sub woofer. It is plugged in and the cables are connected. I am using Sub W pre-out from the receiver and plugged into LFE in in the sub woofer.

I have tried doing a quick setup many times. I do this when I have a BluRay movie playing. First question I have to answer is something like HDMI/TV what should be the answer. I am using a Projector.

When I choose the subwoofer to Yes the receiver changes from BluRay to Tuner on its own.

I have 2 sets of wires running from the media closet to the sub woofer. I was thinking of switching wires to rule out bad prewiring.

Let me know if anyone has any suggestion to verify if my sub woofer works.

I have waited a very long time to finish the home theater so it is tough to not being to able to get even 7.1 working.

I am using MRX 700 with Paradigm Studio 100,690 and ADP 590. What is the volume level that is close to the sound in the theater? I do have sound meter from Radio shack also to check anything. I guess since it is not constant volume, may be my question refers to peak volume. Curious to know. I usually go to at most -25db. I need to try little louder when my wife is not around;-)

I am using MRX 700 with Paradigm Studio 100,690 and ADP 590. What is the volume level that is close to the sound in the theater? I do have sound meter from Radio shack also to check anything. I guess since it is not constant volume, may be my question refers to peak volume. Curious to know. I usually go to at most -25db. I need to try little louder when my wife is not around;-)

I've got the same setup but cc-590 center speaker. The volume is around -25 and -20.. My Dolby Volume mode and Cinema Reference mode is 'on' which makes it about 5 db louder.

I worked on my situation more tonight and it is working as of now. It turned out to be a required TV software update. I thought I had the latest version but after calling them it was not. I would like to point out that the support from Anthem (in particular Piero) was incredible. After he worked with me on the phone and we tried all of their suggestions he offered to swap out my unit just to be sure. I did not request it but was his suggestion. He didn't think it was the MRX's issue but was going to swap it out just in case. So for anybody wondering about purchasing an MRX (or updating to 50.12) quite thinking about it and do it. I haven't spent enough time with 50.12 to comment but after my experience over the last few days I have no worries that it will be pretty good. Maybe not perfect. But if not any issues will be addressed. Also thanks for any suggestions that were given to me from here.

I worked on my situation more tonight and it is working as of now. It turned out to be a required TV software update. I thought I had the latest version but after calling them it was not. I would like to point out that the support from Anthem (in particular Piero) was incredible. After he worked with me on the phone and we tried all of their suggestions he offered to swap out my unit just to be sure. I did not request it but was his suggestion. He didn't think it was the MRX's issue but was going to swap it out just in case. So for anybody wondering about purchasing an MRX (or updating to 50.12) quite thinking about it and do it. I haven't spent enough time with 50.12 to comment but after my experience over the last few days I have no worries that it will be pretty good. Maybe not perfect. But if not any issues will be addressed. Also thanks for any suggestions that were given to me from here.

So glad your problem is resolved!

So this is a great example of how something that was working, stopped working when one peice of equipment had firmware that utilized a different part of the HDMI code than the other. HDMI can be so complicated!

Decide which mic positions you are going to use for ARC Measurement (i.e., to sample your seating area). When locating the candidate sub position use ARC mic position #1 -- the central mic position. Refine the sub position by experimenting with sub orientation and shifting near that candidate position to see what benefit such small shifts might give you. That's a good point to start moving the ARC mic around to see which sub placement gives you the most uniform response across the set of mic positions. It is probably sufficient to test just the #1 position and the two outer positions on either side. Quick Measure updates in real time, but give it a few cycles to settle down after you move the sub or move the mic. I.e., just leave Quick Measure running, move the mic, and wait a few sweeps before believing the chart.
--Bob

Thanks again Bob,
I need to get my room set up and let the tewaking begin

Tigger - thanks for your reply also. This is a great thread, by the people for the people = proper forum stuff

I am new Anthem user and struggling to do basic things a receiver can do.
I haven't run arc yet because I am waiting for the keyspan adapter to arrive.
My firmware is 40.08 and I cannot update it due to lack of adapter.
I also have Anthem MCA-30 driving my LCR speakers.

My current Blu Ray player is Panasonic DMP-BDP310 but my new Oppo 93 will be delivered today.

I have not been able to get any sound into the sub woofer.
First I found out that default settings in the Panasonic were to downgrade 2 channel PCM. I changed its setting to bitstream and Anthem receiver started showing Dolby 3/2 when I played Casino royale.

I don't hear any sound coming out of the sub woofer. It is plugged in and the cables are connected. I am using Sub W pre-out from the receiver and plugged into LFE in in the sub woofer.

I have tried doing a quick setup many times. I do this when I have a BluRay movie playing. First question I have to answer is something like HDMI/TV what should be the answer. I am using a Projector.

When I choose the subwoofer to Yes the receiver changes from BluRay to Tuner on its own.

I have 2 sets of wires running from the media closet to the sub woofer. I was thinking of switching wires to rule out bad prewiring.

Let me know if anyone has any suggestion to verify if my sub woofer works.

I have waited a very long time to finish the home theater so it is tough to not being to able to get even 7.1 working.

Thanks

Have you tried testing with the Manual Sub Test Tone, just to make sure everything is working?

Don't worry about trying to set your levels or the SPL meter. We are just looking to test each speaker and make sure it is working. So you will simply use the up/down arrows to go from one speaker to the next. Don't play with the right/left arrows.

If you have sound, then we at least know everything is working from end to end.

When is your Keyspan arriving? You really need to do a firmware update! (And of course ARC )