Monthly Archives: January 2015

A female longboarder from Florida, who can get stoked on knee high surf and delights over stomach high mushy waves, might surprise you when she admits to being a passionate fan of professional surfing (where the Men’s shortboard tour gets most of the attention), but here I am. I watch the entire WCT tour from Snapper to Pipeline, cheering for my favorites and cursing judges who don’t agree with me. Even a dedicated fan will admit that some waves are certainly more breathtaking than others and only breaks like Cloudbreak or Teahupoo could rival Pipeline in magnificence, which makes the Volcom Pipe Pro, though not a WCT contest, one of my favorite contest to watch online.

The waiting period for the Pipe Pro starts today and runs through February 8th. The contest begins with 112 “Warriors”, fighting it out for the $100k purse, 3,000 QS points to start the year and a spot in the Pipe Invitational(trials for the Pipe Masters). Hawaiians not on tour and wanting to compete at Pipeline during the Triple Crown, must finish in the Top 16 of this event.

The contest roster boasts almost five dozen Hawaiian surfers, including WCT stand out John John Florence and 2015 tour rookie Keanu Asing. Other well known names include former World Champ Sunny Garcia, 2003 Pipeline Pro champ Jamie O’Brien and 2015 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout winner Mason Ho.

The first time I bought a plane ticket to Puerto Rico, I had only been surfing for a little over a year and my then boyfriend and local North Jetty ripper, Mike, told me I was crazy. He actually told me that over the phone, while he himself was in Puerto Rico with friends and I was home in Florida, wrapped up in sweaters and scarves and still experiencing a slight buzz of excitement over the progress I thought I had made with my surfing over the previous summer and fall.

He thought I was SO crazy and in over my head that he bought his own ticket and ended up being the guide, chauffeur, fish cleaner and board caddy. He was also severely outnumbered as me and three of my girlfriends embarked on a mission to prove ourselves (myself) in the crystal clear waves of Rincon.

Maria’s and Sandy Beach, to the dismay of surfers who have been surfing it for decades, is often crowded with beginners and surf schools and with not much more than a year of surfing behind me, I would have fit right in.

The first place Mike took us to paddle out was Middles. Anyone who’s been to PR or seen any media coverage of the place knows, no matter how confident she appears, Middles is NOT where you take your longboarding girfriend, who enjoyed the luxury of learning to surf on one of the mellowest waves in Florida. Middles is where Rip Curl held the 2010 Rip Curl Pro Search (where Kelly won his 10th World Title), it’s home to some of PR’s best high performance shortboarding and even when it’s small, it breaks fast, in shallow water, over sharp reef. See video evidence:

I didn’t know any better and was determined to prove I was worthy of the trip and to not get accosted by the reef I’d been overly warned about (fire coral?!) and so, jumped right on my board and paddled as fast and as hard as I knew how. There were no giant cold fronts moving off of Canada that week and in turn, no giant swell while we were down there. Instead my girlfriends and I traded waves in everything from knee to chest high conditions, really quite nice for my level at the time and our first introduction to reef breaks.

I found Puerto Rico to be the perfect break from North Florida winters, became enamored with reef breaks and ended up going back three years in a row afterward. Aside from escaping the cold, relishing time off of work and taking in the beauty of a tropical island, I found these trips to be tremendously helpful to my surfing. Not having the luxury of being able to go down on a moments notice and instead having to plan my trip out at least a month in advance, I never knew what type of waves I might be greeted with upon arrival and simply crossed my fingers and said a couple of prayers for something rideable.

I’ve been lucky so far and surfed everything from knee high ripples at Maria’s to overhead bombs at Wilderness and everything in between. There is more to surfing well than your performance on a wave and surfing unfamiliar spots with unfamiliar crowds improved my ability to read a line-up, forced me to learn to position myself better and insisted that I take off on some waves I just as well would have backed out of. I also learned to respect the surfers who call those waves home and how much could be learned through sitting back and watching, where they entered the line-up, their take off spot and the lines they drew. More than anything else, those previous trips to PR boosted my confidence. I was able to bring that back with me and apply it to my surfing at home, taking off deeper, attempting bigger turns and daring to begin my journey into noseriding.

It’s been four years since my last trip to PR, opting recently for California and Costa instead, but I’ll be heading back down next week and while I still have plenty of room for improvement, I think it’s safe to say that I’m a better surfer now than I was then. I’m looking forward to saying goodbye to winter and hello to the warm waters and tropical vibes of Isla del Encanto and I’m excited to see where this trip could take my surfing. I’ll be taking plenty of pictures and posting some recaps and highlights of my time there in the upcoming weeks. I know a lot of other Florida surfers head that way this time of year, so if you’re one of them, let me know. If you’ve got a favorite Puerto Rico story or memory, I’d love to hear that too! You can leave it in the comments below or email me at betsy@surf-asylum.com.

It wasn’t long after falling head over heels for surfing that I started to wonder if, at the ripe old age of 27, that perhaps I had missed my prime. Absorbing any and all of forms of surf media that I could get my eyes on, it appeared that if you hadn’t started surfing before you started walking, you might as well not even bother. Meeting my friend, Josette DeLoach, quickly pulled me out of that mindset and opened my eyes to all the potential that lay ahead. She is an inspiration, both in and out of the ocean, casually paddling out on some of the biggest hurricane swells , sharing both a smile and stoke on some of summer’s smallest days and filling flat spells with mountain bikes, paddleboards and snow skis.

Where were you born? When did you first start surfing?
Montreal, Canada. About 17 years old… My earliest influence in surfing was Joe Roland, my first boyfriend who happened to hold the East Championship Title and then Shaun Tomson who held the World Championship Title…just a coincidence! Ha! Ha!

I’ve seen a couple of photos and some references to your time on the North Shore (presumably in the 70’s?), can you tell us a little bit about that?
My twin sister, boyfriend and I hitched a ride across country in three days from JAX to LA then flew on to Hawaii. We lived and worked on the North Shore at the time of the invasion of the Australian, South African and Brazilian surfers (early 70’s) This trip was to be a vacation which ended up lasting 9 years for me…..Lots of great years on the North Shore of Oahu in the pro surfing world!

What was it like being a woman surfer in the 70’s?
Not as many surfer girls in the water so it was unique to see a girl out in the lineup…but basically the same…you have to prove yourself to gain respect…guys still tend to take off on a girl way more than a guy!

You have a twin, Josie, who surfs also, what was it like growing up with her?
Super fun…I always had a best friend for all my adventures while growing up…We had some real moments out in the water together catching some great waves!

How long have you and Mike been married? How did you meet?
It’s gone by so fast, 25 years this coming March…We met through our good friend Sandy Forsyth of Aqua East surf shop…Mike has been my greatest influence and partner in life…My world champion husband! We love surfing together as well as many other sports…Mountain biking and snow skiing are just a few of other passions we have…a couple that plays together stays together!

Have you made any major life choices based on your desire to surf?
Surfing has been a huge part of my life….all the adventures too numerous to count…great surf sessions with my husband and friends…all the friendships it has brought me along the way! Surfing has given me so much pleasure and fond memories! Surfing just followed me in life…I wouldn’t change a thing!

You are in fantastic shape! How do you stay so fit?
I’ve been athletic all my life…working out to stay in shape for my sports has always been a priority…grateful for my health and strength especially on those extra long paddle out surf sessions in Hawaii!

What’s next for Josette?
As long as I stay healthy and strong, my plan is to continue the “stoke” as long as possible!

While I believe that the best thing to improve your surfing is, well, surfing, I also believe that there are benefits to be gained from eating clean. I made up this simple salad a couple of years ago after coming home from one of those summer sessions where the waves were nothing to brag about, but the water was crystal clear, the wind was light and little peelers kept rolling through. Having not brought snacks or water with me because, “I’m only gonna surf for an hour,” (or two or three, four?!)

I had used up most of my reserves and wanted to eat everything in sight. I was desperate for something quick, filling and tasty. I already knew that avocados and kidney beans compliment each other, but as soon as I spied an apple in the fruit bowl, my taste buds demanded that I find out what they might all taste like together. Turns out, they taste amazing together and this salad is still one of my favorite post surf meals.

If your kidney beans are already cooked, this recipe can be thrown together in less than five minutes.

Mick Fanning didn’t win the world title in question during this Tracks interview from last December. Since it was Gabriel Medina’s to lose I don’t think that reflects much on Mick’s talent or performance. What struck me in particular about this article is the open admission that there are things other surfers do better. You don’t often get to read such clear evidence that being the best requires one to honestly assess their weaknessess or limitations. Mick’s coach is quick to point out that Mick can sideslip into the barrel if that’s what is required but I looked up the definition of “au fait” and realized that he was pretty clearly indicating that John John and Kelly have an advantage when it comes to the “freefall late drop” at Pipe. This discussion seems to to stem directly from the performances of these athletes at the 2013 Pipe Masters which you can watch at the links below. Another thing I like about this interview is hearing that Mick uses immediate video feedback in his training to see what’s working and what isn’t, which is refreshing given the statements about Mick knowing how he wants to surf and what kind of surfing he wants to be known for.

One of Mick’s “classic roll-in lefts”:

John John’s recap of his 2013 Pipemasters run (plenty of freefall sideslipping):

The concept of the best surfers knowing their limitations was also on display for me in October of 2014 when I went to see Thundercloud at Sun-ray Cinema. The film gives a little historical background on Cloudbreak in Fiji and then goes into depth about 3 epic days in 3 consecutive years (2010, 2011, and 2012). The movie is long but a must see for dedicated surf fans. The same wave will often be shown 2 or 3 times while the surfers who were out on those epic days talk story. The waves showcased in the film are often at the limit of paddle surfing and don’t lose their visual impact on the third time around, especially when you’re hearing what it was like directly from the surfers riding them. Near the end of the film Dave Wassel and Kelly are considering giving it a go after commentating most of the day for a webcast that went live despite the official WCT event being called off. As Wassel tells it a set comes through like none other that day leaving Kelly content to have a beer and watch while Wassel paddles one of the biggest boards ridden that day into one of the scariest waves of the day. You can watch his wave below but the film puts it in context with the unridden set prior that allowed the theater audience to almost feel why some waves go unridden.