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RAS8244KQ0 Roper Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for RAS8244KQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

1. Unplug washer.2. Remove screws at control panel end caps.3. Flip control panel back to expose wiring.4. Detach lid switch wiring harness from control panel.5. Use screwdriver to pry the 2 brass clips holding the back panel of the washer to the front and sides piece.6. Tilt the front/sides piece over to expose lid switch.7. Use nutdriver to detach ground wire.8. Use screwdriver to remove 2 screws holding lid switch in place.9. Install new lid switch. Make sure wiring harness piece is facing the right direction.10. Put washer back together in same order it was disassembled. Make sure front/sides piece connects to the clips at the bottom.

The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump.The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.

First I unplugged the washing machine. Then I removed the two screws that hold the top console in place; these are located in back of the main console (where the dials are). Once removed, the entire console swivels back, exposing the wires underneath. I unplugged the wiring harness that was connected to the washing machine top flat surface. I then removed the two s-shaped brackets with a screwdriver by prying underneath. This allowed me to remove the main sheet metal frame around the washing machine. The lid switch assembly is located under the top console. I simply removed it and replaced with the new assembly and put it back together. A snap!

Water pump leaking when machine used.

The hardest part of this job was pulling the machine away from the wall so the hoses could be disconnected and the machine flipped onto it's back. Putting the machine on it's back does two things. It drains the water left in the bottom of the tub so it won't pour out onto the motor when the old pump is removed, and gives the necessary access to the pump. Once the machine is on it's back you remove the hose clamps with a pair of pliers and disconnect the hoses. The pump is secured to the motor with a pair of spring steel retaining clips which are easily popped off by hand. Once the clips are removed, the pump is in your hand. Put the new pump in place, replace the retaining clips and hoses, and you're done. This has to have been the easiest repair I've ever done. I wish cleaning gutters was this easy.

spin cycle did not engage

researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unbolted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly

My washing machine became slower and slower to fill over the past several months. It also made a loud squeeling noise during fill-up (all this was on the cold water side only). I removed the old water inlet valve and tore it down, expecting to find corrosion or trash that was blocking the valve from opening completely. Turned out to that the rubber diaphragm / seal was permanently "kinked", making it difficult to open the valve. The hot water seal was fine, but to make sure, I swapped them and re-assembled the washer. Now the problem was with the hot water, confirming what I thought. I ordered a new water inlet valve on Monday night and received it Wednesday! Installed it within 30 minutes and it works perfectly now. I am very pleased with PartSelect.com. I will definitely be a repeat customer, but hopefully it won't be anytime soon. ;)

After troubleshooting the timer, found that the drum would spin if I manually pressed the lid switch with a screwdriver, then it wouldn't work at all. Unfortunately, there was a load of laundry and no way to drain the drum. I bypassed the lid switch (snipped the plastic switch off and twisted the wires). Put a small wire nut over the wires and taped the wire to the top of the machine with plenty of electrical tape so not to cause a shock. Finished that load and ordered the part. Followed advice from former story tellers and removed the two long screws that run down into the cabinet on both sides of the machine, followed by two smaller screws on the top corners of the control panel. Slide the whole panel towards the front of the cabinet about 1/4" and rotate it back over the back panel. The wire assembly will hold it from falling to the floor (watch the tubing that runs on the top edge). Located the plug that leads to the lid switch and pull up on the tab and wiggle it out. Push the tabs on the side of the connector on the cabinet and push it through (watch the metal edges). You will see two metal clips on the left & right top of the cabinet. Put a screwdriver in the notch on the front side and pop them off. Take note on how they are set in the two sides Place hands on both sides of the cabinet and pull towards you, it will rotate over and you can access the lid switch. Remove the two screws from the inside of the lid. Slide the wires & plastic casing off the two small clips on the rim & replace with the new switch. Be careful not to tighten too much cause you'll split the plastic mounting. Reverse the process and your back in business. I believe my lid switch broke due to excessive slamming of the washer lid. Hope this helps

Very easy - 1. Removed hoses from the pump2. Removed Wiring harness from the motor3. Unscrewed saftey screws from both clamps which hold the motor against the motor bracket.4. Using a screw driver I easily removed/pryed the clamps from the motor.5. I then removed the broken plastic coupler from the motor shaft and installed the new one coupler. 6. I did the same thing on the clutch side.7. I set the Rubber coupler in clutch side.8. Put motor back on until couplers joined together.9. Placed Brackets back on Motor (patience here). 10. screwed back saftey screws on clamps.11. connected hoses back.

Thats it... 45 minutes at most .. Save me from having to buy a new easher. I was convinced I was going to have too until I peeked underneatch the washer and saw the rubber coupler on the ground...

Washer tub slammed into washer body during spin cycle

If you load a washing machine unevenly, it will spin out of balance. But our washer seemed to make noise during the spin cycle regardless of how the load was distributed. I suspected that the suspension or balancing springs were getting tired, and ordered a replacement set.

First I disconnected the washer from the water and power supply, then I laid it on its back.

The tub rested on the back of the washer, making two of the three suspension springs relax, and they were pretty easy to pull out with pliers. After the first two were out, I had to support the tub with a couple 2x4s to relax the third suspension spring.

Installation was the reverse of removal - install the lower suspension spring, remove the 2x4s, then install the two other suspension springs.

The tub balancing spring was easy to replace, and probably wasn't the cause of the problem.

With $25 in parts and about 15 minutes, my washer spins much more quietly.

Clothes washer would not spin with more than a couple socks in it. It would barely spin when empty.

Diagnosing the problem was the toughest part. I originally called a repair man - described to him the problem and he said it was most likely the transmission (gearbox)... of course that is one of the most expensive parts! I asked him if it was maybe the clutch... he said there was no clutch.. only a brake... I knew he was wrong after researching. The fact that the washer would agitate fine and spin very light loads but not spin anything heavy told me it was NOT the gearbox.. or the brake.. it was the clutch.. it had to be... so I called the repair man and canceled the appointment I had made then ordered the clutch assembly. Showed up very quickly. Now to the repair. I realized that I did not have to take apart the cabinet section of the washer.. I only needed access to the bottom. My washer - a 5 year old Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II had just a piece of foam blocking off the bottom of the washer... Easy access... I disconnected the hot and cold water and the drain tube. I removed the hot and cold water tubes from the back of the washer also so they would not get crushed when I laid the machine on its back. I unplugged the washer also. The drain tube I left connected to the washer.. I was afaid of it getting crushed while on its back, so I bunched up a large towel put it on the floor and tilted the washer slowly back onto it... the towel was enough of a spacer to keep the drain hose from getting crushed. I used a couple pieces of Duct Tape to hold the lid shut while on its back. I then removed the foam insert on the bottom. Then I unplugged the wiring harness. and a single wire that had a spade connector in the same area. I then removed the clips from the plastic water pump and slid it off the motor (I used Duct Tape again to suspend the water pump up and out of my way while I proceeded) I did NOT have to remove the motor from the gearbox. I used a socket wrench and unbolted the 3 gearbox bolts. I was able to take the whole unit, gearbox and motor out in one piece.. it slid right out (you will have to unscrew the the bolt in the top of the agitator/dispenser shaft - then the gearbox unit with the shaft will slide right out, I did this before I put the washer on it's back) Once it was slid out, I removed the clutch then reinstalled the same way I took it off. The only hard part was the circular wire retainer install for the clutch. It CAN all be done .. I ended up using 2 screwdrivers to put the new retaining ring into the new clutch assembly.. One screwdriver would hold down part of the retaining ring and the other I used to continue pushing the ring into place.. don't give up! You will get it in.. even with normal tools (This was the hardest part of the whole install) It took me 5 minutes with some force and fiddling. I also swapped in the new plastic piece that came with the clutch assembly... you will see where it goes... the old plastic piece looked fine, but I changed it out anyways - it hooks the clutch to the brake system it looks like. After the new clutch assembly was installed I just put it all back together the way I took it apart. One thing I will add was I was not sure if the clutch had to be lined up when I slid the shaft back into the washer.. It does not have to be.. It will align itself automatically. You know when you hear that click/pop when the washer is about to spin?.. well that is that plastic piece engaging with the clutch... there was a piece or two that fell off the shaft when I had removed it.. While sliding the shaft back into the washer I had to just put the pieces back on the shaft before I put the bolt back into the top of the agitator/shaft...

Summary:Get the washer on its back - unplugged!remove wire(s) Harness from motorremove water pumpunbolt 3 bolts holding the gearboxslide gearbox and motor out as one piece ( a bit heavy)remove and replace clutch assembly (pay attention to how things are removed)

Done! put it all back together... hope that helps. It worked perfect for me.. and m

1.Unplug washer and pull away from wall 6 inches or so. (You will need space on either side to remove the cover.)2.Release control panel: Unfasten two screws at corners of panel. Tilt backwards. Unfasten old lid switch wire coupling and push it downward.3.Remove washer cover (top and sides): Remove clips at two corners under control panel. You should be able to gently lift and remove the cover.4.Remove lid switch assembly: Unfasten two screws holding switch to washer top. Unfasten ground wire (using 8mm wrench). Use screwdriver to lift up two clips holding switch assembly.

Reassembly is reverse of removal. When replacing the cover, line it up so that the side edges of the cover sit on top of the rail and the front edge slides beneath the rail. I learned this the hard way, and, in fact, it is still not fastened securely.

To discover what the problem was, I intially tested the inlet valve by blowing into both sides - discovering that the cold side was stuck in the open position. The hardest part was removing the back of the machine. First, you unscrew the top plastic part which contains the controllers by phillips head on either side. Then you pop the clips out with a large slot screwdriver, then at the bottom, a nutdriver or large slot screwdriver there are two nuts to remove. The valve itself took a small nutdriver and pliers to remove the hose. Took less than 20 mintues to complete repair. Washing works like new now.

Turned off water supply, disconnected hoses so I could lay on its back.( drain hose also ) have something to catch all the water in. There will be some residual water so have something to wipe it up. Removed agitater, then I removed the spanner nut with hammer and punch. layed it on its back, removed the three mounting bolts that hold the gearcase to the tub support. Removed wire harness and ground wire , pulled gearcase and shaft out . Removed spin tube thrust washer, removed support ring from groove in shaft , removed retaining ring , slid clutch off shaft ,installed new clutch. Take care to watch how parts are removed so that they are installed in proper orientation. Since I had it this far apart I decided I should replace the coupling. I removed the two motor retainers , seperated coupling , pulled both halves off shafts , installed new halves , they go on a lttle tight , newer couplings have metal inserts , aligned coupling halves , inserted together , put motor retainers back on , tightened small screws,done.

Water leaking on floor

I removed the two spring clips that hold the pump and two wire spring clips that hold the hoses. Then I had to pry the pump off the shaft (it was frozen with rust). Then I cleaned the shaft with sandpaper and installed the new pump (which, by the way, came the next day, thank you very much) which made my wife very happy, and I thank you for that , too.