In Seoul, Go for the Last-Minute Massage Before Boarding

Ethiopian-born, Swiss-educated art dealer Rachel Lehmann spends half of the year on the road shuttling between her galleries in New York and Hong Kong.

The 61-year-old gallerist spoke to the Journal about Turkish tomatoes, last-minute massages in Seoul's airport and the up-and-coming Romanian art scene.

How often are you on the road?

About half of the year. It's business-related 99% of the time.

Where do you go most?

I make a point to be in Asia four to five times a year. I go to Hong Kong, Korea, mainland China, Singapore and Indonesia. I also go to Europe because we have a large base of artists there.

Favorite airline?

Korean Air. The little things do matter when you travel as much as I do. The fact that they are friendly, that they try to read your wishes from your eyes, that they are all good-looking and beautifully dressed—all this makes a difference. Once you get used to Asian airlines, it's very difficult to travel any other.

Best airport?

Seoul has some great last-moment possibilities to indulge in a short, relaxing and efficient massage before you go on a major trip.

What are your packing essentials?

I try to pack light. I always make sure I have earplugs and an eye mask. The one thing that keeps me sane is working out. So I pack gym clothes, which my husband sometimes laughs about. He says it's half my suitcase, which is true, but they are essential.

How many pairs of shoes do you take?

That's the best question. Never more than three. Very often, it will be just two. I'll be traveling in my workout shoes, and I'll have one pair of comfortable shoes with a small heel, which I can wear with everything. That's the best scenario. Now, if I have very extensive art fairs, I'll have a spare pair with me, which are more dressy flats.

Best travel experience?

Three years ago around Christmas, I was feeling worn down and tired. I traveled to the ancient Buddhist temple Borobudur [in Indonesia]. On the first day, very early in the morning, I started climbing the mountain and I felt a relief. The higher I climbed, the simpler the temple became and the clearer it became that I needed to be more accepting of myself. I did it for five days. It changed the way I look at myself. It made me understand that I work much more than other people do, but I do it for my own fulfillment, and I don't want to live my life a different way.

Favorite hotel?

It has to be friendly, completely modern and Wi-Fi connected. It's important because you can go to palaces in Europe, for example, and they are not. I love the Opposite House in Beijing for those reasons. I also love little surprises—the fact that you have a poem on your bed when you go to sleep.

Not having a gym is difficult for me. I've found myself at times in Japan in a ryokan [traditional inn] where I was jumping on the spot for 35 minutes because it was too dangerous to run outside.

Which city has an interesting art scene?

Cluj-Napoca, Romania, which totally surprised me. It has a very rich cultural history, but everything stopped in the 1970s and '80s with the Ceaușescu dictatorship. Now there is a big hunger to re-establish the importance of the area as a cultural center. You have two or three factory-style buildings where a lot of artists live. The experience is amazing—it's very pure and new.

What's your biggest tip for travelers?

Bring a good book and take advantage of long flights. I find it a relief to not be connected to email for 12 to 14 hours. It's a time when thinking can be amazing. Embrace it. Definitely don't drink [alcohol] on a plane. Drink tons of water and eat light. Wherever you arrive, go and work out for 30 minutes. That will help you reconnect with yourself.

Where would you like to go that you haven't been?

Iceland for the hot springs. Guilin in China also sounds amazing. I saw some images with very high beautiful green mountains. If I could learn some Mandarin there, too, that would be great.

Do you collect anything from your travels?

I usually collect art. I have Japanese bronzes I adore from the 19th century as well as very old ceramics. I'm not a big souvenir collector because I try to travel light, but artwork can be mailed.

Which city has the best food?

Kyoto in Japan is an amazing culinary experience, but I also remember going to Istanbul to a very simple restaurant by the ocean. I'll never forget the tomatoes I ate there. It's about having something authentic and fresh.

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