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Backstory: I'm a noob when it comes to sharpening. I bought the EP a year ago, I've had limited success, but thats to be expect as I've just been learning on the fly as I go. So I got a feel for using the EP stones(When I finally felt a burr it was like a lightswitch went off in my head), switched to the Shapton Glass ones(500,1000,4000) and picked up a angle cube. My knife is the Richmond Artifex gyuuto

1. When you are sharpening and switching to a different stone, do you lightly remove the burr? or do you just not even bother with it?

2.How do you use the angle cube with the edge-pro?

3.It seems like the 4000 Stones takes way more time to sharpen than the 500/1000 stones combined. Is that the case for everyone else?

4. For the Ceramic Hone. Do you go slightly wider or narrower than the angle you sharpened at? I feel like I might be screwing up my knives by honing at the wrong angle. Like I could chop 5 onions and the knife would be duller than a breadknife.

Thanks.

snipes

Post subject: Re: Some Novice Questions

Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 5:57 pm

Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 11:01 pmPosts: 586Location: ATL

2.How do you use the angle cube with the edge-pro?Check out the video on the cktg angle cube product page3.It seems like the 4000 Stones takes way more time to sharpen than the 500/1000 stones combined. Is that the case for everyone else?

When you say sharpening, what exactly do you mean? Ideally you are using the 4000 after the 1000 and simply refining the already defined edge and polishing out the 1000 scratches. Personally I spend the least amount of time with my last stone. I spend the most amount of time with my first stone to set the edge, everything after that should be simply refining that edge.

Sailor

Post subject: Re: Some Novice Questions

Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 6:08 pm

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:28 pmPosts: 587

Hi Netisopol,

1. I recommend you taking a look at the video at the Edge Pro Inc site, it is a new site and the video on the home page is very good, it will give you some great pointers. As for the burr, it is not necessary to remove the burr after each stone, now having said that, I do remove the burr prior to moving upward in grit but you can wait until the final stone, in your case the 4K to do this. This is a crucial step in sharpening as I am sure you know.3. As Snipes is indicating, the lions share of time should be on your initial stone, that is the one that will get the knife sharp, don't progress to your 1k until the 500 stone has done it's job, this is where patience comes into play.4. For the hone, same angle if possible. You can use the sharpie trick again on your edge with the hone to verify your angle and just sweep it over the hone ever so lightly, like your painting a stick of dynamite.

Good luck....watch the video at Ben Dale's site

Netisopl

Post subject: Re: Some Novice Questions

Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 4:09 am

Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2014 5:36 pmPosts: 4

What do you think the problem is with your knife, when it gets dull after cutting 4 or 5 onions?

my guess, knife needs to be thinned. How many times have you sharpened it at 15 degrees? these tend to be a bit thick behind the edge, so if you haven't done so it is probably time. Im not an ep user but im sure a lot of the other guys on the forum could point you in the right direction in this regard. Good luck to you and happy sharpening

Netisopl

Post subject: Re: Some Novice Questions

Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 4:06 am

Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2014 5:36 pmPosts: 4

What is thinning a knife? I've never heard of that before.

DefMunky

Post subject: Re: Some Novice Questions

Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 4:19 am

Joined: Mon Nov 18, 2013 5:44 pmPosts: 633

Netisopl wrote:What is thinning a knife? I've never heard of that before.

As you sharpen the edge travels up the blade where it gets thicker. Thinning a knife is removing some of the metal that leads up to the sharpened edge to keep a nice thin profile so the cutting performance isn't hampered by creating more of a wedge than a keen cutting edge. Essentially you are laying the blade flatter on the stone (or in this case the stone flatter on the blade) so it doesn't hit the edge like you want when sharpening but the metal behind it instead. It can be anything from knocking the shoulders off the edge bevel to grinding the actual bevel leading to the edge itself.

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