Attractive and complex nose: florality, white flowers, quince, marzipan and nuts. A lovely entry made tangy and zesty by a touch of spritz. Dry, yet with fruit sweetness, quince and almond to the fore on the delightfully textural palate framed by a freshening lick of acidity.

2017 Te Kano Central Otago Pinot GrisPrice: $27Rating: Good to very good

Brightly appealing nose loaded with pear and fruit sherbet and a hint of ripe nectarine with aeration. Creamily textured palate accenting the pear and stonefruit, though those flavours taper. Some chalky grip on the mid palate has a touch of bitterness. Warmth on the close.

Intriguing nose of lanolin and smoke; a sweetly fruited top note. Concentration on the palate, real richness here, showing spices and stonefruit with a beguiling bittersweet note from the fruit kernel nuances. Superb drinkability leading to notes of cashew nuts on the long close.

Struck match, bread dough and savoury notes; the fruit opening up in the glass. Texture and richness on entry, once again savoury, showing cooked apple and stonefruit with a touch of apricot kernel adding a counterpoint. Freshness here and a nutty close. This becomes zestier and lip-smacking with time.

Leads with struck match, grilled nuts and soapiness (in a good way). Richly viscous palate offers quince flavours, spice and nuts, though rather than a fruit-driven style this is founded on texture and nuance. Impeccable balance, complex and full of interest with a long, satisfying finish.

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