AuthorTopic: Help the Aga T please. (Read 2624 times)

Having been a long time DID user and having lost said DID i was on the lookout for a cheap RBA and happened upon the Aga T and this thing is giving me nightmares.I am simply unable to make a coil.

The problems i am experiencing at the time of writing this are.1 Everytime i power on,the bridge from the wick to the terminal just catches alight and pops.2. I struggle to get above 1.0 ohms but when i do 1 happens.I have tried many freshly made rolls of mesh and its the same story. I did manage to make a wick last night where i was at 1.4 ohms and all 4 wraps were lit up to together but it was an old wick and just refused to take any juice so i am at an even bigger loss because i know it can be done but its just not doing it.

I'm using 400 mesh,0.20 Kanthal wire and a VAMO VV mod.Any help would be very much appreciated.

Try re-oxidising your wick... I had the same problem, but I was using 0.15 wire - I changed to 0.2, took the wick out, reheated it and burned some e liquid on it and put 5 turns on it... Keep it close to the centre pin and you should be Ok!

I guess should have asked what version of Vamo you have, V3 runs in RMS only.

The V2 Vamo has 2 modes, Avg (average) and RMS (Root Mean Square) and each one changes the way the device delivers powerBasically in Avg mode, the voltage can spike and deliver quite a harsh vape, sometimes burning coils/liquidIn RMS mode, the Vamo gives a more consistent voltage and you get closer to what you set using the buttons

To change modes on a V2 Vamo, you hold down either the + or - button for 10 seconds or so until you see "NO1" or "NO2" displayedNO1=AvgNO2=RMS

Well i set it to NO2 but i am beginning to suspect there is something wrong with the mod itself no more than 10 minutes ago i made a coil that popped at 1.5 ohms and this new one i cant get above 0.5 ohms and seeing as everything i am using is totally the same as before,its bizzare.Ifs its not that then its sitting at 1.4 ohms and with a press of a button it goes down to 0.7 ohms or less.Totally unexplainable.

I'm a relative newbie and just to add on to the good advice already given here's a few other bits:

1. Are you sure about the resistance readings - I know you are, but have you tried to do it on another atty eg a vivi nova or a protank or something, taken it off, put it back on again etc to see if you're still getting variable readings? I certainly know on my own Vamo that when i first put an atty on and take the resistance it's a lot higher than after I've had one or two vapes on the same atty on the same vamo

2. You're better using a run down battery in a mechanical mod to get your coil run in rather than on a vv/vw Vamo. The thing with the Vamo or any other device that you can set the power output is that you might be pushing too much through it to begin with. What I've started doing when using my vamo like this is reducing the power (mine's set to 7 watts standard normally) much lower so I'm not popping too much power through the coil - set your vamo to watts rather than voltage and drop the power right down. I use a mechanical mod now when doing my coils but follow this method when testing the resistance of the coil on the vamo and it doesn't pop it

3. Other advice all good about distance between coil/wick and top post. I usually pull the wick towards it a little when tying off the wick under the top knut - seems to help reducing it popping

3. Have you tried the drillbit method for sorting out your coils? It's worked for me at least - gets the coils all nice and sorted and saves messing about trying to wrap around the wick

ANyway, hope it helps. All the above from other people on here when I was having similar problems. Let us know how you get on bud

a properly wound coil free from short, will consistently glow - the small run of the top-most wire, won't ... therefore, it is very likely that the wick is in contact with the metal structure of the atomiser, or the mesh is not sufficiently oxidized.

granted, it is not the same atomiser, but principle remains the same - the coils themselves are resisting electrical flow, and therefore heat and glow ... both the initial run offs allow relatively unhindered current flow, and therefore do not glow.

one way to test the integrity of the atomiser, is to attach resistance wire, but with no mesh wick - if the kanthal glows as expected, then it would tend to example problem as residing somewhere in the addition of mesh.

here's an example - again, the coils illuminate, but the initial run of kanthal does not glow:

Just an update for you kind folks.I have now managed to get it working \o/.Its currently running at 2.1 ohms and is steady as a rock,it is a bit higher than i would like but i'm not going to faf with it anymore as i want the nightmare to end.What i did was trim down the mesh to make sure it was not touching the atomiser,swapped to VW to slowly check the coils to get them glowing evenly and bobs your uncle.

I want to give a big shout out of thanks to Ismeitis,pyr0 and ilegal and everyone else who contributed,you have my gratitude.