Though not many people recognize it as such, the North State is California’s finest destinations for waterfalls, outside of the Sierra Nevada. Obviously that is a significant exception, but if one took Yosemite out of the equation, the North State may even exceed the Sierra Nevada in terms of waterfalls of exceptional beauty. That is, of course, a claim that is highly subjective and open to debate. What remains objective and beyond dispute is that there are indeed numerous majestic, spectacular, and powerful waterfalls in the region. The waterfalls are generally found in two areas. In the east there are numerous cataracts in the Cascade Range, primarily found in the mountains surrounding the Mount Shasta and Lassen Peak, the range’s two great volcanos. In the west, the Klamath Mountains are home to dozens of great waterfalls. Particularly notable are the giants that populate the Trinity Alps. Though these areas are home to a high concentration of stupendous cataracts, there are many, many more scattered throughout the entire North State and they beckon to be discovered and explored.

Whitney Falls.

The Mount Shasta area in particular has an abundance of great waterfalls. The massive mountain itself has some of the most stunning falls in California. Three in particular, Ash Creek, Mud Creek, and Whitney Falls are excellent. Each of the three has their virtues. Ash Creek Falls is the most beautiful. Mud Creek Falls, nearly as beautiful is the largest in terms of volume. Lastly, Whitney Falls, though neither as beautiful nor as large, is the easiest to get to. Each of these waterfalls is accessed by extremely scenic hikes that pass through strikingly different areas. The environments traveled by these routes range from barren volcanic basins above the treeline to deep, old growth forest to lower elevation chaparral. The one uniting feature that all of these trails share, aside from the fact that they all lead to great waterfalls, is that they are all graced with exceptional views of Mount Shasta. One other feature makes these waterfalls unique among the waterfalls in California. This is that, not only are the falls on Mount Shasta but the best vantages of the cataracts all include great views of the monumental mountain as well. Thus waterfalls that are already excellent are enhanced immeasurably because they are included in views that are elevated to staggering proportions.

The three aforementioned waterfalls are not the only cataracts on Mount Shasta nor are they the only ones in the wider Mount Shasta area. The rivers surrounding the mountain and the Trinity Divide to the west have their own wonderful waterfalls. These other falls on Mount Shasta, both named and unnamed, deserve a blog post of their own, as do the other waterfalls in the greater Mount Shasta region.

Whitney Falls, Mount Shasta and Shastina.

3. Whitney Falls
Although Whitney Falls is not the best waterfall on Mount Shasta, it is easily the falls that receives the most visitors. There are two reasons for this. First, it is heavily trumpeted in both hiking guides and waterfall guides. Second, of the three best waterfalls on the volcano, it is the most easily accessible. The road to the trailhead is relatively short and easy to follow and the route to the waterfall is reasonably short and not very strenuous. It is somewhat exasperating that the waterfall is heralded as much as it is because there are some major drawbacks to this waterfall. Among the problems is the trail to the vista’s increasingly poor condition. A large glacial outburst in 1997 wiped out much of the trail and the trailhead. The Forest Service has declined to repair the damage and so some parts of the trail has devolved to little more than a deer trail in some places. Second and more important, its flow is frustratingly unpredictable. It is not uncommon for hikers to make the journey to the vista only to find nothing flowing.

Despite these drawbacks, Whitney Falls is a very beautiful waterfall. Graceful and wispy, the falls shoot through a narrow trough and pour 200 feet into a craggy basin. Though the trough at the top of the falls is narrow, the water widens out into a perfectly linear plunge. It is unfortunate that the bottom of the waterfall is not visible from the vantage point but Whitney Creek can be observed emerging from around a bend a little further downstream. Despite being partially obscured, the area around the bottom of the falls is obviously lush, testimony to the power of water in this barren environment. Evidence of extensive lava flows is visible above the top of Whitney Falls and along large sections of the canyon downstream. Black, jagged lava makes a stunning contrast to the white water dancing over the ragged cliff. Above this all, the tips of Mount Shasta and Shastina just peek out from over a ridge above the falls, presiding majestically over the great mountain’s volcanic domain.

Mud Creek Falls is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in California. Fed by both glaciers and springs, it has the highest volume by far of any of the falls on Mount Shasta. Where Whitney Falls is full of grace, Mud Creek is full of fury. The high volume of water erupts over the edge of a band of hard, erosion resistant rock and thunders down into a narrow chasm. The bulk of the water flowing over the falls plunges downward in a classic, linear waterfall while a smaller, yet still significant, amount spreads out in a lacy series of cascades bouncing down the face of the rocky cliff. It is a tremendous sight and worthy of far more attention than the waterfall receives. Perhaps Mud Creek Falls languishes in relative obscurity because it is nearly overshadowed by the epic scope of its surroundings. Tucked into the bottom of 1,500 foot deep Mud Creek Canyon, the falls are dwarfed by the tremendous size of the canyon. Mud Creek Canyon itself appears diminutive when compared to the mighty cone of Mount Shasta, which rises overhead. Volcanic spire after spire march up Sargents Ridge, casting their shadows deep into the canyon. Near the summit, the Konwakiton Glacier clings to the mountain’s rocky slopes. Melt water from the glacier is the initial source of Mud Creek. The entire scene, taken as a whole, is mesmerizing and it is easy to see why such a magnificent waterfall as Mud Creek Falls is lost amidst the grandeur of the mountain.

Perhaps the biggest drawback to Mud Creek Falls is the difficult access necessary to reach it. Most who observe the waterfall do so from the Clear Creek Trail, which hugs the east rim of Mud Creek Canyon. The difficulty is that it is about 1 mile away from the falls. Even despite this distance, the falls are an impressive sight and are still audible from across the canyon. Though far away, this vantage is still a satisfying place from which to view Mud Creek Falls, given the much larger and truly awe-inspiring scene. For those intent on reaching the waterfall, there is a difficult cross-country route from the Clear Creek Springs at the end of the Clear Creek Trail. This route descends down the steep side of Mud Creek Canyon to the falls. Rappelling the band of cliffs alongside the falls is popular with the very, very few who make it that far.

By far the prettiest waterfall on Mount Shasta, Ash Creek Falls is one of the finest falls in California. Set in the deep cleft of Ash Creek Canyon, the waterfall make a tremendous scene as it pours over the cliff in a powerful freefall, then hits a hard rocky bulge and explodes into a profusion of silky showers. High above, Mount Shasta and the gargantuan Wintun Glacier hold sway on the horizon. This 330 foot high waterfall combines the power of Mud Creek Falls with the grace of Whitney Falls. It does not have the volume of the former, though it has does have a significant amount of water and far more than flows through latter. In short, it is the best combination of grace and power. These attributes, combined with the incredible arrangement of Ash Creek Canyon, the enormous glacier and the awesome bulk of Mount Shasta make the view of Ash Creek Falls one of the most magnificent sights on Mount Shasta or anywhere in California, for that matter. The overall setting of Mud Creek Falls may be a bit grander but where that view makes the falls seem smaller, the view of Ash Creek Falls seems constructed to maximize the waterfall’s beauty.

Amazingly, this waterfall has been left off the most popular guide for waterfalls in California. So much the better, for those who want to enjoy this incredible sight by themselves. Omission from a guidebook is not the only reason for Ash Creek Falls’ light visitation. It is also at the end of a cross-country route that begins at the terminus of the Brewer Creek Trail, the most isolated and lightly used trail on Mount Shasta. From the end of the trail (a worthy and spectacular hike in its own right), the route leads across the open, barren volcanic slopes of the mountain, across a deep, dry gully and down a very steep slope to a vista point that is only 0.25 miles from the falls. For those who want a close look, there is a route that leads down to the top of the waterfall and beyond, to the far side of the canyon, though the views are not as good from that side. This area can also be reached from the Cold Springs area. However one gets to Ash Creek Falls, it is an image that is impossible to forget.

It is undeniable that Mount Shasta is the polestar of the northstate’s geography. It is roughly at the geographic center of the region and is also centrally located between the Klamath Mountains and the Modoc Plateau, near the crest of the Cascade Range that cuts across the state’s north/south axis. Obviously location is not the extent of the explanation for Mount Shasta’s gravitational pull on the surrounding area. It is simply a massive, spectacular mountain of epic proportions that stands over a mile above the next tallest peak. Such incredible size and beauty naturally offers great hiking opportunities and Mount Shasta does not disappoint when it comes to great trails. There are 9 established trails on Mount Shasta (of course, there are numerous other unofficial hiking routes) and all of them are very scenic.

Glacier-clad Mount Shasta above the Clear Creek Trail.

It goes without saying that all of the trails on Mount Shasta offer amazing scenery and are worth hiking. Whether one is looking for meadows, glaciers, waterfalls, far-reaching views, great views of Mount Shasta itself, solitude, or adventure, the trails on the solitary volcano will supply all of these things and satisfy the thirst for the opportunity to enjoy one of nature’s finest achievements. While all the trails are great, there are three that I find rise above the others. Each of them must have diverse, spectacular scenery, the opportunity for lots of cross-country exploration and lead to premier destinations on Mount Shasta. Furthermore, I have an additional set of qualifications a trail must meet in order to rank high on my personal list. Most importantly, a trail has to have running water somewhere along it, preferably in the form of a waterfall. Other important considerations are consistent views (as opposed to being under constant forest canopy) and lots of rock or cliffs along the trail.

The large cataract flows through the middle of Squaw Meadow.

Most of these elements are present on nearly all of Mount Shasta’s trails to some degree but three trails have these qualities in abundance. Consequently, these are my three favorite trails on the mountain and the three trails I would most recommend to hikers in search of the optimal Mount Shasta hiking experience. These trails are the Clear Creek Trail, the Brewer Creek Trail and the Squaw Meadow Trail. All of these hikes have exceptional views, both of Mount Shasta and the surrounding region. They all have running water and fall and waterfalls in one form or another. Moreover, they all boast beautiful meadows of varying size (though in the case of the Brewer Creek Trail, it is just a narrow margin of grassy meadow along the banks of the creek). None of the trails are hard, rising and falling at a reasonable grade. Lastly, of all the trails on Mount Shasta, these three trails have the best cross-country destinations. If I had to rate these three trails against each other, I would say Clear Creek comes in third, Brewer Creek second and Squaw Meadow would be the top choice. This was not easy for me to determine because each trail is exceptional.

Climbing Mount Shasta’s southeastern slopes, the Clear Creek Trail offers an incredible abundance of superlatives. Essentially a steady ascent along the rim of massive Mud Creek Canyon, the first two-thirds of the trail offers excellent wildflowers and staggering views into the gargantuan canyon, the largest on Mount Shasta. Powerful Mud Creek Falls, dwarfed by the canyon through which it flows, is a highlight. Clear Creek itself tumbles over a long series of cataracts as it rushes to its confluence with Mud Creek. The mighty cone of Mount Shasta dominates the scene overhead. Eventually the trail reaches treeline and enters a massive basin over which hang the Mud Creek, Konwakiton and Watkins Glaciers. A large complex of springs constitutes the headwaters of Clear Creek and creates a series of lovely meadows. Off-trail exploring leads down to Mud Creek Falls, lower Clear Creek or up to the summit of Mount Shasta.

The lonely Brewer Creek Trail is the only path that explores the vast, isolated expanse of Mount Shasta’s eastern flank. The views of Mount Shasta are simply stunning, possibly the best of any single trail on Mount Shasta. This particular perspective of Shasta has a bit of a grander feel than most because the Wintun and Hotlum Glaciers (Mount Shasta and California’s 3rd and 1st largest) are very prominent, with their attendant bergscherunds, icefalls and crevasses. The trail eventually ends at small but beautiful and clear-running Brewer Creek, where the small fringe of meadow and diminutive cataracts create a lush environment seemingly out of place in the barren volcanic landscape. Those looking for more adventure and make the off-trail trip to gorgeous Ash Creek Falls. The creek is outflow from the Wintun Glacier and passes through a starkly beautiful canyon before pouring 330 feet over a lip of hard, erosion-resistant rock. Mount Shasta, presiding overhead makes the scene utterly unforgettable. Views of the southernmost Cascade, including Lassen Peak are just icing on the cake. Ash Creek Falls is my personal favorite spot on Mount Shasta.

Perhaps the most diverse trail on Mount Shasta, the trail to Squaw Meadow provides the rare opportunity to enjoy a loop on Mount Shasta. Beginning in lovely Panther Meadow, the trail climbs through excellent old-growth red fir forest before breaking out into incredibly barren volcanic terrain with great views of Mount Shasta and Red Butte. A side trail leads to the summit of Gray Butte and incredible views while a cross-country route makes a great circumnavigation of Red Butte. After passing through the Gate, a narrow gap between Sargents Ridge and Red Butte, the trail eventually arrives at the bottom of Squaw Meadow, the largest meadow on Mount Shasta. It is a stunning view with Shastarama Point dominating the horizon beyond the meadow. A massive 100 foot cataract divides the lower section of the meadow from the upper section and the headwaters springs. Views to the south from the upper meadow include the southern Cascades and Lassen Peak. Numerous cross-country routes provide lots of interesting exploration. The best is to head east from the meadow to the rim of Mud Creek Canyon where one can observe Konwakiton Falls. On the return trip, the loop breaks away just after passing through the gate and climbs through small Hummingbird Meadow to a ridge above the Old Ski Bowl. More excellent views of Mount Shasta are abundant, as is the spectacular vista to the west, including the Trinity Divide and the serrated peaks of the Trinity Alps. The trail then descends through the Old Ski Bowl and then drops down to Panther Meadow, completing the spectacular loop.

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