Mardou&Dean

Mardou&Dean is an award winning Oslo based label, established by Ingrid Bredholt and Patrik Rosenfors. Through their interest in art and travel the story of Mardou&Dean is told. Ingrid identifies new collections with focus on breaking clothing rules and with great emphasis on how the clothes are made and how they make you feel. With seven runway shows in Oslo and Copenhagen the brand is now presenting in Paris. Collaborations with other creatives is at the core of the brand, with previous projects including photographic work by Mick Rock, Bryan Adams, Aldo Fallai and Stian Andersen to name a few. Mardou&Dean shows two ready-to-wear collections a year and headquarters in Oslo.

Describe Mardou&Dean’s creative process.

I try to re-create an experience or a feeling I have. Its hard to put words to it, it’s more like an emotion. The first key items are quite clear; the combo of two fabrics or the intermix of shapes. I try not to interfere with people’s artistic thoughts or let them interfere with mine at this first stage. The actual collection I draw right after this, during a short period of days. Rarely the first key-pieces or forms are ever exchanged with something latter or new. At the second stage, which is drawing down the basic outline, I have people I discuss with. Then the process starts. The research of fabrics, the test of forms, prototypes.. Some parts of the process must be left unstructured and non definable. I can’t put words to describe the final result or the first feeling, I can only be technical about it, with words the magic is gone.

What were the goals of the SS17 collection and the thought process behind executing those goals? Was there a certain message meant to be sent?

I had this idea of representing colors as their perfect self: Does the fabric match the color? To find the material where the colors belong. I do think that the material is alpha omega for a hue. We tested a lot before finding what we meant was the perfect fit. Colors are also of course a very individual thing: how you see colors. I.e. I really love suede dark violet, but I don’t feel particularly drawn to dark violet nappa or silk. Do you see what I mean? I like working with colors, to indulge in them, I must force myself not to use them, though black has the depth I love the most.

Speaking of individuals; that was another goal for the SS17 collection, creating strong characters, each with their main color. I prefer to build collections around individuals belonging together and interfering with each other, and not a mass collected into different cuts and solutions. I do like us to be more strong about our individuality, to choose away things already chosen by others.

What persons would Mardou & Dean consider to be their main target market?

I think it’s a tricky question. It relies in everything we do. Who do we create for and who is our market. I don’t know if they are necessary the same. I want people who see clothes as art, who will feel euphoric when dressing up. I also want the ones who look for beautiful simple pieces with a quality that will last a decade or 10 and who can appreciate the craftsmanship and the beauty in the details. I would like to touch both the ones who like to dress up in unique customs and also the ones who wants clean basics that makes them feel stronger in everyday life.

How does Mardou &Dean staff organize through everything when provided with multiple design assets, files and ideas?

We are not many, we are a small but consistent team. We work very close together in most fields. The first part of the design process which I do alone is the only holy.. I feel stimulated when things are complicated, when the tasks are many spread out with the need to be executed during a short period of time. I need to feel challenged. I look for people who prefer the same when working, if it’s within the team, partners or collaborators. It’s an important asset as part of a team to be a good listener, to always stay positive and keep the head clear. I do belive in lists though.

What questions were considered before beginning the SS17 collection? What information is the most important?

I am always thinking: what do we want? How can we interpret zeitgeist and stimulate and inspire others. Is it possible to make art and at the same time make wearable clothes? I try to find that balance. With the SS17 collection I wondered if it’s was possible to make these individuals I wanted the collection to represent and let them feel collected just by the way each look was combined. I do think structure and rules within the styling can be key.

With these androgynous and relaxed looks, this is very in compliance with the popular acceptance of individuality. Do you see Mardou & Dean leaning towards any other bold causes in the future, such as environment-friendly fabrics, etc.?

We do make androgynous looks, I like that feeling those silhouettes gives, but I also love the shape of classic male and female form, so these shapes are present within the collections.

It’s in the core of Mardou & Dean to act sustainable: making products that will last. Be less vulgar in the way we consume. I believe it’s everyone’s responsibility to consume less and affect the environment (physical, political and interpersonal) with care and love. With Mardou & Dean we only use skins from food production (sheep, goat, cow). A selection of the products is 100% ecological, like our last release of sneakers made in Italy with no chemicals in the production. It’s a very soft and beautiful shoe.

We recently had a collaboration with Insurance company IF; designing a capsule collection of reflective garments, I think few people now how many lives gets taken in traffic every year. I feel proud to be able to work with project like this

The last seasons we made a couple of capsule collections with collectibles, made upon order, of garments made of vintage or re-done fabrics. The last one AIZOME was entirely hand sewn of used Mardou&Dean jeans. The patina you find on clothes after many years of wear is so beautiful and impossible to re-create in production.

I think we are moving towards a time were people are again genuinely interested in expressing them self, not necessary though fashion or art but also politically. We are more aware of what is happening around us and are more interested in taking a stand. We need to be aware that what we do today will affect tomorrow.

Is there a piece you’re particularly proud of or that has received excessive, positive feedback above others? Do any specific designs seem to be a ‘fan favorite’?

I get sometimes surprised by what people get drawn to, and sometimes I know exactly what will be a hit. We had lately a latex series. These latex pieces have been liked by the press, they are very photogenic so I see why. Last was a print in Vogue UK, it’s nice to see how they are using the pieces in a totally different way and are making something new.

Our leather jackets are a key piece I love very much. We get many requests for them. They can be ordered in a basic size or you can get your own measurements, you choose colors, trimmings and leathers. It’s a cool idea because you can customize your dream jacket. I do think people really like it. Maybe tailored garments like this will finally get back in the limelight. I think its important a jacket fits, no mirror is needed, it shall just feel right.

SS17 includes some leather jackets made in collaboration with artist duo Broslo. What led to this collaboration? Are there any collaborations with other artists in the foreseeable future? If so, who would be some of the first on the list? What rules, cultures or structures need to exist to foster team collaborations?

Broslo is an artist duo from Oslo. They are previous snowboarders. Their art is eccentric and free. We liked them, they liked us. We gave each other total freedom in certain processes in the making of these jackets. The jackets were made in a series of 3 of each designs, it was a very cool project. It collided as a huge exhibition with a following party at a parking lot on the 14th floor in Oslo city center. We invited 1000 and 2400 showed up..

We have previously worked with many artists, among others iconic Italian photographer Aldo Fallai and rock photographer Mick Rock and Stian Andersen to mention a few.

I always look for new artists and creatives to work with. It has been important to the philosophy of the label from the start. To evolve through meeting with others. I don’t think any rules are needed to make a good collab except mutual respect for the work done and a collected idea about what the goal is. The only culture should be the one of feeling present here and now and the urge to create freely. At some level one must share the same kind of aesthetics, and of course someone has to be the one pushing for deadlines and delivery… who is not me. We have many new projects coming up and there will be some really cool releases.