I'm a one-time daily newspaper reporter who now writes about high-end jewelry, the finest timepieces, luxury and fashion. It seems remarkable when looking back, but, at the same time, it feels quite normal. My first magazine job was with a design and architecture trade publication where I received a first-hand education and appreciation of how good, innovative design can actually make the world a better place. It’s something I took with me to a jewelry trade publication where I spent nine years. During this time I traveled the world acquiring knowledge about the diverse and expansive jewelry industry and now I am able to share this knowledge with you. Like Robert Frost I took the road less traveled. And that has made all the difference. In addition to this blog, you can find me at my "Jewelry News Network" blog and facebook page and on Twitter at jewelrynewsnet.

Luxury Jewelry Brand Qeelin Poised For Asian Expansion

18k rose gold, pave diamond and ruby ring, part of Qeelin's King & Queen collection. The ring has a dragon and phoenix head, which represent King and Queen, respectively.

Luxury jewelry brand, Qeelin, is unusual in several ways compared to its peers. It is both a relatively small and young company. Its jewelry contains a range of influences yet its purpose is precise. And it is headquartered in Asia, not Europe.

The Hong Kong-based company combines traditional Chinese themes with French craftsmanship, a design-first aesthetic, the use of precious materials and a bit of whimsy. Not yet 10 years old, the brand has 14 boutiques in China, Hong Kong and Europe; and other points of sale in Singapore, Tokyo and Europe.

While the company has European influences and distribution, it is focused on the China and Asian markets. This is precisely why French luxury holding company KeringKering (formerly known as PPR) purchased a majority stake in the relatively unknown brand.

“Qeelin is a small brand, but with strong growth potential,” said Alexis Babeau, Kering managing director. “We focus much more on the brand’s ability to grow rather than on its current size. As examples, Balenciaga or Bottega Veneta were very small brands too when we bought them back in 2001. Look at them now…. Qeelin is well positioned to tap the growth potential of the Asian market.”

Expansion has already begun as the brand plans to open six to seven new boutiques in China, said Dennis Chan, Qeelin creative director, who co-founded the company with French entrepreneur Guillaume Brochard.

While attending the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, I had a chance to attend a Qeelin press conference in Hong Kong where the company introduced its King & Queen jewelry line. Afterward, I spoke privately with Chan.

“We are expanding quite steadily, (but) we try not to expand and suddenly to be very big because it takes time for a luxury brand to grow,” the Hong Kong resident said. “But I think we have our own position in the industry … we rely a lot on design and craftsmanship and at the same time a lot of our jewelry could really touch people’s hearts.”

Chan is a bit of a creative Renaissance man, beginning his career in London as a product designer (which he says he is most passionate about) before adding engineer, designer and architect to his resume. His projects include being involved in the design of the 33-meter high Millennium Clock Tower in Scotland, built in 2000.

Over the years, he became passionate about jewelry and watches and was inspired to design his own pieces based on what he felt was a gap in the marketplace.

“I became more intrigued about the world of luxury jewelry,” he said. “I love fashion and I’m a collector of watches. I started collecting jewelry as well. We couldn’t find something that has a Chinese touch but also very, very modern. It just did not exist in the market.”

While Chan has a partner, this company is his vision. He stresses that it’s a design-first company. There is no market research before determining new products. Nor are gems used to determine designs. And he is deeply involved in how the brand is positioned. The meeting room at Club Lusitano where the press conference was held had large photographs of models wearing Qeelin jewelry that were taken by Chan using 100-year-old lenses and a new version of a vintage camera.

Dragon necklace with 18k white gold, diamond pave and rubies.

“We don’t have a marketing sense,” he said. “For example, at a dinner party I would notice what is lacking on my friends and I would feel this kind of product would fit them perfectly. That is more of the information and source when I’m designing new pieces of jewelry.”

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