I'm not what you would consider a "fertilizer" expert, but what i do, is put some lime down for a good soil base. Let that sit a week out 2 to get it nice and fertile. Then i do Scott's crabgrass protection, let that down a few weeks. Then do scotts weed and feed. You need to identify what type of grass you have in order to find the best program suitable. The one i do is already nice thick zoysia grass. Looks like you need more than just fertilizer.

Step four: cut up all that nasty shizz , the lawn and it's soil are done.
Time to start over.

Step five: Measure the new area to be seeded. *example 100 feet by 45 feet is 4500 sqft* then figure yardage of top soil needed.

Step five: find a good loamy soil, then buy it, and have it delivered.

Step six: buy 20% of the yardage of topsoil in peat or other organic compost mix

Step seven: check irrigation and repair anything broken.

Step eight: install top soil, then mix in extra organic liberally.

Step nine: grade properly, then light up the irrigation system and water it in.

Step ten: fix any grade or water settling issues, after water has settled and dried, lightly rake soil to promote a bit of "fluff"

Step eleven: spread 1/4 to 1/2 of the seed you will need by hand, then hand rake in using the back of the rake to promote goof soil/seed contact

Step twelve: hydro seed using 3/4 of the seed you need.

Step thirteen: set irrigation clock to water 10 minute intervals three to four times a day, until grass has germinated to a light green fuzz, then water twice per day. After the first mow (typically three weeks), set watering schedule to once per day except mow day, and 15 minutes.
Once lawn is fully established 3 times per week 15-10 minutes.

Step 14: realize somewhere around step 4 you need to hire a contractor and realize what you want will cost $10,000 or more.

Step four: cut up all that nasty shizz , the lawn and it's soil are done.
Time to start over.

Step five: Measure the new area to be seeded. *example 100 feet by 45 feet is 4500 sqft* then figure yardage of top soil needed.

Step five: find a good loamy soil, then buy it, and have it delivered.

Step six: buy 20% of the yardage of topsoil in peat or other organic compost mix

Step seven: check irrigation and repair anything broken.

Step eight: install top soil, then mix in extra organic liberally.

Step nine: grade properly, then light up the irrigation system and water it in.

Step ten: fix any grade or water settling issues, after water has settled and dried, lightly rake soil to promote a bit of "fluff"

Step eleven: spread 1/4 to 1/2 of the seed you will need by hand, then hand rake in using the back of the rake to promote goof soil/seed contact

Step twelve: hydro seed using 3/4 of the seed you need.

Step thirteen: set irrigation clock to water 10 minute intervals three to four times a day, until grass has germinated to a light green fuzz, then water twice per day. After the first mow (typically three weeks), set watering schedule to once per day except mow day, and 15 minutes.
Once lawn is fully established 3 times per week 15-10 minutes.

Step 14: realize somewhere around step 4 you need to hire a contractor and realize what you want will cost $10,000 or more.

I should have started reading from step 14 and ended at step one!

I'm not familiar with lawn stuff and how much it cost, but what part of it would cost $10,000 to get a contractor?

Is the grass really done? would renting a sod cutter be the expensive part?
is their anything I can do that is cost effective?

I would love to start new with the front yard and get rid of all the sod but the back yard... would take so long and the back isn't as bad as the front.

Nice snow mold. Rake the lawn lightly then cut it short and slit seed with a good starter fertilizer. Some of the affected area might come back but I'd still slit seed. Check the crowns of the grass and see if its still alive. Taking will help get O2 to the crown which will help.Posted via Mobile Device