Description

Whiskey Crack is an absolute classic and one of the original Taylor Canyon testpieces. In my day, if you could lead Whiskey Crack, you had arrived.

The climbing of crux pitch involves steep technical face climbing and thin crack work over small wired pro. The tendency is to try to snug into the v groove for security, but the key is to stay on the outside. This is a stellar route.

Location

First Buttress Main Wall (Parking lot wall). Between the Sun Deck and The Big Roof lies a Straight as an arrow thin crack in a shallow grove. This is the crux pitch of Whiskey Crack.

For what it's worth, both pitches can be done as a single pitch with a 70m rope. Rope drag wasn't too bad with appropriate sling use. I brought 4 double-length slings and one single-length,. There was about 20 feet of rope left at the top, so the whole thing (both pitches) must be ~220 feet (65m).