Mobile Outfeed Tables Vidalia GA

I built two tables, which offer a lot of flexibility. I can butt them right up to the back of my contractor’s saw because the folding wings span the saw’s motor. When I rip a long board, I can put one table in front of the saw and one behind. When I crosscut a big piece of plywood, I can roll one of the tables to the left side of the saw.

Mobile Outfeed Tables

Mobile Outfeed Tables

A tablesaw is a lot safer and easier to use when it’s equipped with an outfeed table. Whether you’re ripping long boards or crosscutting big sheets of plywood, you really need more support than just the top of your saw.

Lots of folks have a huge outfeed table that sits permanently behind the saw, but that’s impractical in my compact shop. I’ve gone small and mobile instead.

I built two tables, which offer a lot of flexibility. I can butt them right up to the back of my contractor’s saw because the folding wings span the saw’s motor. When I rip a long board, I can put one table in front of the saw and one behind. When I crosscut a big piece of plywood, I can roll one of the tables to the left side of the saw. When I need more open space around the saw, I fold down the wings and push the tables out of the way.

As a bonus, these tables are great shop carts. They’re perfect for wheeling project parts from machine to machine. I also use them for glue-ups and assembly. Sweet!

1: Adjustable Top

Level the top to compensate for an uneven floor by simply turning a screw at each corner.

2: Heavy-Duty Folding Wings

Each wing is supported by super-strong brackets that open at precisely 90 degrees. The wings drop out of the way for compact storage.

3: Melamine Surface

4: Dust-Free Storage

5: Make Two

Arrange them in front, to the side or behind your saw.

6: Mobility

Locking casters let you roll the outfeed table wherever you need it.

Customize Your Table’s Height

Our dimensions are designed for a saw of standard height: about 34 in. The table adjusts from 33-1/2 to 35-1/4 in. high. This allows you to fine-tune the exact height of the table to match your saw after the table is built. In addition, you can easily tilt the table’s top to compensate for an uneven floor. If you need a table with a different range (to include the height of a mobile base, for example), adjust the cabinet and door dimensions.

Build the Case

1. Cut the sides (A), subtop, bottom and shelf (B) and back (C) to size. Cut rabbets for the subtop, bottom and back. Cut dadoes for the shelf. Assemble the case and check it for square.

2. Cut the face frame parts (D, E, F) to size. When assembled, the face frame should be 1/16 in. longer and wider than the case. Use screw pockets to join the face frame rails to the stiles. Position the center rail so its top edge is even with the shelf.

3. Glue and clamp the face frame to the cabinet. Trim it flush after the glue is dry (Photo 1).