Rapid on/off switching while crock is drained below float level

It's sort of like fibrillation. When I jiggle the flost trip lever a few times it seemed ok but problem recurred several hours later. Did the same thing and it has stopped for now. Can't find record of installation. I think it is about 5 yrs. old. I have a Zoeller water powered back up installed next to the main pump as per specs.

Check the check valve it could have mud or just debris on the flap,, take it apart and clean it out see if this doesn;'t help after that you might just want to change the pump if it is in a high volume usage, area

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There is no fuse inside the T101.If timer clock motor is working correctly, then 120Volt circuit is fine up to the timer.Unknown if this is new installation , or old installation that stopped working.Wiring might be bad, such that line and load wires are reversed.Or light bulb might be bad.Copy following links to help narrow down problem:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.htmlhttp://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-Intermatic-timers.html

The float is usually the culprit if it is not turning on. I f you have a floating ball type float switch try lifting it up and shaking it to see if pump starts running. These micro switches stick after several years use. If you have a round canister on the side it is a pressure activated switch that also has a micro switch inside that completes the circut when the pressure on the diafram is enough to click the switch. I f it has a float on a rod it has a switch at the top of the pump that shuts it off when at low level, and turns it on at high water level. Most pumps have a two part cord. The pump plugs into the float control switch, so it does not get power till the float switch clicks on. If you have a two part plug, then separate them and plug the cord in that leads directly to the pump body. This will tell you if the pump is working. If it is then replace the float switch assembly. Also there is either a few screws holding the pump screen on to the pump on the underside. Some simply snap fit to the pump body. Often I will find stones, wood chips string etc. in the pump impeller. That is what pumps the water by squeezing it into the small 1 1/4 output orifice. That about covers it. Please post to fixya.com if it does, so I get the credit for the solve. Let me know if you do need more advice. Good Luck!!!

Depens on what type of humidifier you have there are tank type like lobb or water over waterover will make the pump run every time the lobb wont it has a tank with water going up in price lobb wa2 is better

On the controls to the pump there is a float, or 2 floats that control wheather the pump is on, or off. I don't know wheather this one has one float or 2 so i will give a short explanation for either fix.

Little giant usually has 1 float on a length of cord, or 1 float with a rigid frame that it goes inside, or has a guide rod. No matter which system is employed there is a built in dead band for the interval between when the pump turns on at a high level, and when it shuts off at a low level. If the float is on a rod, or in a cage it needs to be able to move freely. There is a method to control the turn on height, and the turn off height with some little clamps that connect to the switch. So when the liquid level gets high the pump turns on, and then when the liquid level gets to the lower limit the pump automatically shuts off. If these little keepers are right near the top of the float, and right near the bottom of the float then as soon as the pump turns on the liquid level drops just a bit, and the dead band is real small, so it just shuts right off. the liquid flows backward through the pump and then it turns back on, ect... If this is the case move the adjustments that surround the float. Presto.

If it has a little float on a cord then the adjustment for the level needs to be secured to the discharge pipe or something. It has a mercury switch inside the float to turn it on, and probably another to turn it back off when the float goes to a desired level just above the suction at the base of the pump. I would use black zip tie's to hold the cord so that the desired "turn on the pump level", and the propper "turn off the pump level" are what you want. Just hold the cord against the discharge pipe so that the float is above the suction opening to the pump, and the strait up level of the float are what you want.

If it has 2 floats on cords then one of the floats will turn the pump on if both are held upright by the liquid level. This float must be the top float that is mounted on the discharge pipe. If the 2 floats are mounted in the reverse position then the pump will cycle quickly. There will be a nearly nonexisting dead band. Both will be upright but the control circuit will shut the pump off when the top float, which should be on the bottom, lowers even slightly. Use the same method as perscribed above to attach the floats. The one that belongs on the bottom, the one that turns the pump off, should be placed so that the pump will shut off before it tries to pump air. the top float will turn the pump on if it and the lower float are both upright.

If the breaker is tripping, then there is a short in the circuit. The two wires in your lighting circuit are touching somewhere. Could be at the broken light, or below it in the ground. You will likely have to pull that stake or dig around it carefully to see what is going on, When the light was broken, the wire may have gotten damaged also.

You can raise the switch in relation to the pump to ensure that shut off occurs before the pump starts sucking air. Somewhere between 1-2" ought to do it. The switch is attached to a 'spindle' on the pump through 2 holes in the switch. I unscrewed the spindle so that I could take the top switch hole off of the spindle while leaving the bottom hole on. Then I screwed the spindle back in. This allowed the switch to be raised in relation to the pump. I drilled two small holes in a plastic part near the top of the pump & secured the top hole of the switch to the pump body with string. Crude, but effective.