Fountain Lounge at the Roosevelt hotel brings back a legend

"Years ago, hotels were the first place you went to eat," said Justin Ferguson, the chef de cuisine at the Roosevelt hotel. "Now there are so many restaurants that it's kind of a last resort."

He hopes to change that. Ferguson, who most recently opened Superior Seafood on St. Charles Avenue, was hired by the hotel to focus solely on the Fountain Lounge, a revival of an institution that closed in 1965.

"The fish or the chicken is not done in bulk," he said. "It's coming from the same people that John Besh gets his fish from."

The menu includes entrees, but the focus is on the more than a dozen small plates and appetizers. The options include hand-cut fries with tarragon aioli, a pecan ale-glazed pork belly and skillet shrimp with ham hock jus.

When Ferguson came aboard, he insisted on adding an extensive raw bar, where you'll find Louisiana oysters but also oysters from other states, crab claws and pickled shrimp.

The Fountain Lounge has roots in history, but the space feels modern. With the carefully preserved Sazerac Bar next door, the hotel felt any attempt at a retro design would fall flat. The cocktail list also leans towards the contemporary. The wine list include 38 offerings by the glass.

Historically the Fountain Lounge was a place to hear music. That tradition continues with free shows Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

"You go from food, food, food," Ferguson said, "and the next thing you know you're a late-night spot and everybody is in there drinking."