I will soon begin construction on a Harrier from Halinski. Checking through the forum I found a neat trick on translating some of the txt. It will be a huge help to me. Below is the translated txt...and below that is the image it came from. I hope this will be a help to others needing translations.

Description of
First Before starting to build a model to analyze the exact installation drawings.
Second You should preferably use the thickness of cardboard and glue drying.
Third All elements of the cut along the line, and before gluing Rannie fixed-form and fit.
4th Templates (designated with Roman numerals), made from wood or wire recommended thickness according to the shape (templates-Quarter Figures 1:1 scale)
5th Elements of an oval form, eg by dragging the edge of the table.
6th All the color loss caused by cutting, cutting, grinding, add the appropriate color.
7th Strictly observe the following two determinations
- Cut a tightly collapse (arrow indicates the direction of rolling)
- Rolled in a tube
X - cut fold and glue
- The direction in front of the model
L - left side P – right G up And down
- Glued cardboard thickness of 0.5 mm
**- Glued cardboard thickness of 1 mm
***- Glued cardboard thickness of 2 mm
* B - glued Bristol

8th The fold lines (marked by courtly lines along which is part of the bend) slightly cut - preferably on the unprinted side.
Ordering part numbers generally corresponds to the order of bonding.
Z-11 vol.1 clog the central part of the skeleton of the hull, cz.12a, b, c glue in the fight and put through the holes in Part 1 (LP), the center of the rolls stick together cz.12 template I and fold it back on around 45 °.
At a later stage, stick to the rolls (dashed line) dy-six engine exhaust (cz.38 and 39) aimed outlets down - changeover-spinning nozzle rotates one of the other.Cz.2d cut, glued to part 2 so that they overlap (no first attach-ing too much - so you can slide under it last cz.2d).
Proceed with banding frame plating.
For this purpose, to be made of card stock strips connecting - the easiest way is solid, cardboard stencil pooling on the edge, dorysować the sides (at a distance of 1 to 5 mm) parallel lines and one of them (the inside of the curve) en-strand of serrated.
The location of these strips is shown in Figure general.
Note the combination of the front of the ka-water survey of the central part (part 2 and 2e, and 19d) - after their assembly vents often bind cz.26 ÷ 29 (cz.27 and 28 cut, trim and glue on contact or by ponacinanego from both sides and wyprofilo-ment in a semicircle along the strip card stock).
The entire inlet stick to the teeth extending from the connecting bar cz.14 (rear portions cz.29 oklejają part 2, but based on the internal front hatch combined with cz.28 cz.26a using plywood from Bristol).
Other (cz.16) and pylons (cz.41 and 42) assemble symmetrically along the lines on the fuselage and wings.
Other elements of the glue and arrange the drawings.
Andrew Haliński

I think that down through the cardboard thickness it is the same for almost all the halinski kits...and maybe others as well. You know, as I have thought about it today, I cannot, for any good reason, understand why they do not offer translations. Even if it is a small amount of people, it is a one time thing, then it is done, and they would probably find that if they offered English instructions, and other languages for that matter, they would probably sell more.

And money or time isn't an excuse...I got a workable translation with little effort. And not to mention that most of these countries speak English as well.

Just don't understand..

Hats off to the companies that do though...I think that WAK has some, and Orlik as well definitely does. Take a hint from these companies, it will broaden your customer base.

I read over it and don't see any serious mistakes.
Any particular things you need clarified?

Quote:

For this purpose, to be made of card stock strips connecting - the easiest way is solid, cardboard stencil pooling on the edge, dorysować the sides (at a distance of 1 to 5 mm) parallel lines and one of them (the inside of the curve) en-strand of serrated.

Makes more sense as....

Quote:

For this purpose make connecting strips of bristol/cardstock. The easiest way is to trace the edge you're connecting, draw parallel lines on either side (3 to 5mm away) and make one edge toothed/serrated (the one on the inside of the curve).

Quote:

(cz.27 and 28 cut, trim and glue on contact or by ponacinanego from both sides and wyprofilo-ment in a semicircle along the strip card stock).

... as ...

Quote:

Parts 27 and 28 should be cut and shaped, then edge/butt-glued or glued with the help of half-round strips of bristol/cardstock on either side.

Quote:

(rear portions cz.29 oklejają part 2, but based on the internal front hatch combined with cz.28 cz.26a using plywood from Bristol).

... as ...

Quote:

Glue 2a onto the rear of 29, while the front part of 29 should be glued onto the inner arc of 26a, connecting to 28 with the help of connecting strips.

Description of
First Before starting to build a model to analyze the exact installation drawings.
Second You should preferably use the thickness of cardboard and glue drying.
Third All elements of the cut along the line, and before gluing Rannie fixed-form and fit.
4th Templates (designated with Roman numerals), made from wood or wire recommended thickness according to the shape (templates-Quarter Figures 1:1 scale)
5th Elements of an oval form, eg by dragging the edge of the table.
6th All the color loss caused by cutting, cutting, grinding, add the appropriate color.
7th Strictly observe the following two determinations
- Cut a tightly collapse (arrow indicates the direction of rolling)
- Rolled in a tube
X - cut fold and glue
- The direction in front of the model
L - left side P – right G up And down
- Glued cardboard thickness of 0.5 mm
**- Glued cardboard thickness of 1 mm
***- Glued cardboard thickness of 2 mm
* B - glued Bristol

8th The fold lines (marked by courtly lines along which is part of the bend) slightly cut - preferably on the unprinted side.
Ordering part numbers generally corresponds to the order of bonding.
Z-11 vol.1 clog the central part of the skeleton of the hull, cz.12a, b, c glue in the fight and put through the holes in Part 1 (LP), the center of the rolls stick together cz.12 template I and fold it back on around 45 °.
At a later stage, stick to the rolls (dashed line) dy-six engine exhaust (cz.38 and 39) aimed outlets down - changeover-spinning nozzle rotates one of the other.Cz.2d cut, glued to part 2 so that they overlap (no first attaching too much - so you can slide under it last cz.2d).
Proceed with banding frame plating.
For this purpose make connecting strips of bristol/cardstock. The easiest way is to trace the edge you're connecting, draw parallel lines on either side (3 to 5mm away) and make one edge toothed/serrated (the one on the inside of the curve).
The location of these strips is shown in Figure general.
Note the combination of the front of the ka-water survey of the central part (part 2 and 2e, and 19d) - after their assembly vents often bind cz.26 ÷ 29 (Parts 27 and 28 should be cut and shaped, then edge/butt-glued or glued with the help of half-round strips of bristol/cardstock on either side.).
The entire inlet stick to the teeth extending from the connecting bar cz.14 (Glue 2a onto the rear of 29, while the front part of 29 should be glued onto the inner arc of 26a, connecting to 28 with the help of connecting strips.).
Other (cz.16) and pylons (cz.41 and 42) assemble symmetrically along the lines on the fuselage and wings.
Other elements of the glue and arrange the drawings.
Andrew Haliński