Description

King Otto's Castle is a large imposing formation directly behind some campsites with numerous routes from 5.7 to 5.12 on it's south and west faces. Face climbing is primarily the name of the game here but a few decent cracks exist as well.

Due to it's location remember to be courteous and ask before climbing here if the campsites are occupied.

Panama Red runs up the dark desert patina between Quivering Savages and Sweat Band. Scramble up the initial slab to the base of a right-arching seam on the headwall. A ladder of steep, positive crimps runs up the seam and the face above. Originally a top-rope problem, it was retrobolted into a sport route in the early '90s by some of my compatriots as I stood watch on the summit. Alas, this so offended a local (who had no involvement or history with the route) that he chopped it back to a to...[more]Browse More Classics in CA

What is the bolted route between Panama Red and Sweat Band? It uses the first two bolts of Sweat Band, then traverses up and left to a third bolt, then onto the seam of Panama Red. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.