Today all members of the
expedition reached the camp I. Tomorrow they are going to head for Camp II.
Piotr informed us that according to the weather forecast the bad weather
period is over. In the following few days the weather conditions should be
very good. Therefore, the members of the expedition are planning to settle,
within 5-6 days, camp III and then attack the summit.

Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

7/15/2005: Lotto-MultiBank
Góra Pragnień 2005 – Day 15

Good morning, this is Piotr
Pustelnik. This is my first relation from Broad Peak, “the mountain of dreams”
situated in Karakorum near K2 in Pakistan. The Lotto-MultiBank
Expedition.

Welcome everyone. I am sorry
for such a long break, but we’ve had some technical problems.

We settled the Base Camp a
week ago. In the beginning the weather was rather bad, later it improved a
little for about 2 days. Three days ago we settled the Camp I – unfortunately
it is pretty low (5300 m), as there was no place in the traditional site of
Camp I. Than the weather broke down again, but we managed to put 500 m of fix
ropes above CampI, towards the Camp II. This area is safe now, which is
especially important for me. In 1998 my rope broke here and I fell a few
hundred meters, which was a terrible experience. Yesterday we settled the Camp
II on the altitude of 6200 m and now we went down to rest. In two days we are
going to go up – we will try to settle the Camp III, and maybe even the Camp
IV.

We all feel well and we have
no health problems. The weather is of course terrible – it is
very warm down here, therefore we will probably leave at nights.

From Broad Peak, Piotr
Pustelnik. Tank you and good bye. I promise to report more regularly from now
on.

Update 7/14/2005:
This is a short message from
Piotr Pustelnik. Messager sent by SMS: ...all of us will go up to the Camp II
on the altitude 6400 m..."

Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

also, I have made a mistake ! I wrote
that in Slovak's team are Martin Gablik and Stanislav Glejdura, but the true
is that the second member of this team is Rudolf Bosjak not Stanislav Glejdura.

Sorry! Best wishes, Wojtek
Jemiolo

Update: 7/12/2005:
Today (12th of July) Piotr
Pustelnik, Artur Hajzer and Sherpa in cooperation with Slovak team: Martin
Gablik and Rudolf
Bosjak, have settled the Camp I on the altitude 5400m.
Piotr, Artur and Martin will plan to spend today's night in C1, and Stanislav
with Sherpa went down to BC for other fix ropes. Tomorrow they will come back
to C1 and all five will plan to put fix ropes on the way to C2. Best regards,
Wojtek Jemiolo

reception
of the equipment the members of the expedition left Islamabad and the day
before they reached the town Skardu. Yesterday the team started trekking
towards Ascole and further to the Broad Peak BC. They should reach the
BC around 9 July.

The local name of Broad
peak is Faichan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8047 meters/26,401ft.
It is called Broad Peak because of its breadth at the top.
Broad Peak is one of the 8000 meters
peaks which towers above the Concordia at the heart of the Karakorum
range. It lies on the Pakistan/China frontier between K2 and the
Gasherbrum peaks and was first climbed by four Austrians in 1957,
including Kurt Diemberger and Herman Buhl.

Millet One
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mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
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