I put the SH847 series regulator on my 2010 Vision this weekend purchased from Jack at roadstercycle. Due to the high price of the SH847 he only ships it with what he calls his "super kit" which means the input harness has both heat-shrinkable butt connections and standard heat shrink if you solder, and is ready to terminate once you clip your connector. The output harness is premade with a ShortStop inline going to terminals ready to screw down to your Vision. He does very nice wiring work.

I also ordered his nice machined mounting panel, necessary as the oem hole spacing is not the same as the SH847 hole spacing. Be sure to order the "SH847" version. Or just drill out your Vision mounting plate, that works too. Jack ships the plate with M6/20mm flathead screws, noting VOG's DaveofSac's comments about screw length I purchased some M6/16mm screws, those worked great with no grinding.

Install went fine, Jack uses very nice wire in the harnesses. If you don't have an auxiliary heat source don't attempt to solder the 10ga wire, the thermal sink is too great for a standard soldering iron. That's why he includes the butt connectors. I used a hot air rework station, narrow nozzle, at full temp (365degC) along with my nice Weller, soldering was fine.

Installing the 3-phase input harness requires cutting the oem stator connector and soldering on the SH847 connector's wiring. A pain if the Vreg doesn't work even though Jack bench-tests each unit. So before any destructive steps I disconnected the input and output of the old Vreg and attached the SH847 with clip leads. Worked great, proceeded with cutting wire.

The output harness is too long for Vision placement, it's designed to fit on any bike including those with batteries in other places. As nice and responsive as Jack was I could have requested a shorter harness. It comes with an inline ShortStop and sheathed in some serious automotive cladding. Nice stuff. I didn't want to coil it (wad it) all up under the plastic cover where it terminates so I cut it shorter and soldered, then cut the sheathing to fit. Looks great.

Due to the new piece of nice sheathing now available I wanted to use it on the input harness. This harness requires cutting off the existing 3-phase stator connector and soldering on another. My thought was to cut things such that the existing stator wire sheathing, which is thin, would stay where it is and the new stator sheathing would overlap that by some amount and extend to the stator connector into the Vreg. The length on the Vision is such that wasn't possible so I cut off the connector, slid on the new sheathing which was too long over the old sheathing, and bunched it up on itself such that I could get the freshly cut wires exposed. Holding them back in an electronics vise I soldered on the new connector wiring, then releasing the vise the new sheating slid down to the stator connector yet still overlapped the old sheathing by about 3 inches.
Math is good, measure twice cut once.

I haven't taken it on a ride yet but here are few observations which will be amended once I ride a bit.
The Vreg will not start into an unbiased load. So the battery with some voltage in it needs to be attached. I suppose this is a safety precaution as the spikes generated will fry the bike's electronics without a battery to absorb them. A BATTERY ATTACHED IS ESSENTIAL. Knowing this I wanted to look at the Vreg's output with a dummy load attached but without a biased load (battery) it won't run. So I put a 15ohm resistor inline with the output to slightly isolate the load and looked at the output with an oscilloscope. The spikes generated were approximately 25-30v in amplitude and were half-wave stator duration. This answers my question about the SH847's pwm method - not high frequency, and no output filtering which I suspected. On the load side of the 15ohm resistor the spikes were completely gone, absorbed by the high capacitance of the battery.
This is not a problem, a standard shunt-type regulator does the same thing, sending a half-wave high voltage pulse into the battery for absorption, I just have to know for curiosity.
Disconnected the 15ohm resistor and connected the Vreg correctly.
Idling for a few minutes the regulator is HOT. I expect a shunt regulator to get hot, that's it's job. A series regulator I did not expect to get so hot especially since it's passing the full half-wave of the stator output when it turns on which in my case was every second or so. Once I ride for a bit we'll see how it does but I'm surprised at the power dissipation in a series switching Vreg. Yes, we're talking about high current, I know that part.

Thanks for DAVEofSAC for his excellent write up and multi-month guinea pig test, and to Jack at roadstercycles for being such a professional.
Victory did a lousy job at keeping the Vision technically modern, we'll do it ourselves. Since the Vision tech is so tacky, currently working on an iPad mount that's not ugly, unlike nearly every other bike mount out there...

It's been rock solid. My bike doesn't sit, rides pretty much everyday. Never had any problem with the factory setup, but replaced the orig VR at 100Kmi with a mosfet. That lasted about month. Then I put the original back on until I could get the 847 kit. I've got about 115K on the bike now.

Nice write up. I'm not electrical smart so you lost me in a couple places. I have read where 08 to 10 models if you burn up your regular Vic has a kit. Now you have to change the stator along with the regulator. Jacks is a better way to go