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New York-based fashion designer Thom Browne may not cook much, but he knows what he likes to eat: downtown, it’s Italian at Morandi. Uptown, it’s French at La Grenouille, where Bon Appétit threw him a dinner last night to celebrate his spring 2014 show. Browne fans Dree Hemingway, Giovanna Battaglia, and Leandra Medine were in attendance, as were members of Team Thom Browne, appropriately clad in cropped pants or suit shorts, Browne’s signature look. (We saw a lot of good-looking ankles.)

What stole the show for us, though? Those gougères. Warm, cheesy, almost impossibly airy, La Grenouille owner Charles Masson churned them out of the kitchen by the tray-full and paired them with rosé Champagne. And that was before people sat down. Click through the slide show above for more from last night’s party.

One last thing: To usher guests to their seats, La Grenouille’s maître d’ weaved himself through the crowd, ringing a little silver bell, a charming performance that kept things moving on time. We’re stealing that one.

The calm before the storm at New York's storied French restaurant, La Grenouille