(optional)

Helps extend the time that the yeast stays cool in transit. Cool temperatures help keep the viability of the yeast higher which in turns leads to faster fermentation start times and better beer. The Insulated shipper helps the ice last much longer, however neither option will ensure your yeast stays cool the entire trip.

One of the most widely used Lager yeasts in the world. Very malty and clean, great for all German Lagers, Pilsners and Marzens.

We Recommend you make a yeast starter for all lagers. Because of the cold environment you will need about 4 times as much yeast to successfully ferment a lager. If you don't have a yeast starter pitch 2-4 vials at 60-70F and cool to 48-52F within 12-18 hours. To ferment lagers like the German's and Czech's make an active starter of 2000ml per 5 gallons. Pitch at 45-48F and let it naturally rise to 48-52F. Hold your fermentation at 48-52F for 4-6 weeks in the primary. A diacetyl rest is recommended after the last week of fermentation. Raise to 55-58F for 3-5days and crash to 40F. It is normal if lager fermentation takes 3-4 days to show any sign of krausen after pitching yeast.

I've used this strain on all my German style lagers with great results. My maibock, dopplebock, and marzens have all done real well in competitions and I only use this one yeast strain. It makes it real easy to harvest from smaller beers to ferment monster lagers like the dopplebock.

I have used 833 for all lagers. I used this one at the recommendation of a brew friend. It's fermenting right now, but it doesn't seem to be going quite as fast as 833. Putting off more sulphur than 833.

I used the WLP802, Czech lager over and over again, until I tried the German Lager. An easy fermentation, nothing finicky about it. It even flocked out better than the Czech lager. It's hard to tell the taste difference, but there was a lot of sulfur; however, that cleared up quickly. It's just a workhorse of a yeast with, in my opinion, the characteristics of an Ale yeast.