THE toy logo isn’t the only thing that rocks at the Rocking Horse Cafe Mexicano.

The dishes coming out of chef Sue Torres’ open kitchen are mixes of the highest order. Turning back the tamale wrapper on the knock-your-socks-off tamalitos de pato appetizer releases a steamy scent of savory duck confit and cornbread. Alongside is a cooling, crunchy cucumber salad. Everything rests atop a smooth, cinnamon-y habanero-pear puree.

Our main courses are similarly intriguing in their scope of texture, taste and composition. Lobster empanadas are joined by five other elements on the dish: an amaranth and wild rice cake flecked with currants, peppers and carrot, a smoky blackened chile filled with mild white cheese, shredded cabbage to cool the pepper’s heat, some greens, and a smooth, sweet, corn puree under all. Plantain-crusted salmon with corn bread pudding and pumpkin-seed sauce, too, gets the multi-taste treatment.

A sublime dessert du jour of pineapple upside down cake upscales the classic, retaining the comfort factor while introducing touches such as goat’s milk caramel sauce.