Description

An old climbing area with lots of history. The ratings in this area are a little sandbagged (likely mostly due to the age of the area). Some rivalry between the climbers in Nuernberg and Bamberg took place here. Kurt Albert established some lines, as well as John Bachar. This area has many different towers and small walls all next to each other, so I will provide a layout of where the crags are located in relation to each other, and then each crag will be a separate area to help understand how to find the routes.

Getting There

Drive to Bamberg. From Bamberg, head down the A70 to Schesslitz and head east toward Würgau. After driving through Würgau you'll make 4 hair-pin-like turns as you head uphill. Right after the last turn you'll see a gate on your left and an opening through the forest. The book tells you to park on the right, so I assume you could pull up onto the grassy lot here (drive over the curb). Walk into the opening in the forest and uphill for 30m. There's a fence on the left, and when it ends, head left on the path that goes uphill. Follow it until you get to the crags after about 5 to 10 minutes, depending on what you're looking for.

The first bolt is very high, so place a stopper or two on your way up, unless you're comfortable free-soloing that high up, regardless of the relative ease of the climbing....[more]Browse More Classics in International