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Ravenstein and Thomas Wakefield Source: Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society and Monthly Record of Geography, New Monthly Series, Vol. 6, No. 5 (May, 1884), pp. 255-273 Published by: Blackwell Publishing on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1800372 Accessed: 17/08/2010 10:51
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it xvas beainning to disappeal, and slalrery was commencing. Two years afterwards the region was desolate. The Shooli tribe had for a lollg time defiedthe Egyptian Government,and had in fact now and a.gainmade raids on Khartum itself. Although the credit had been g;iven to Schweinfurth for discovering the Welle, Consul Petllerick made known its existence many years before. The Bahr-el-Ghasalregion was the commencementof the rising chalk countrysand a little furthersouth mountainsoroppedup here and there belonging to the granite and other formations. A line drawn strait,ht across in that region would be the barrierwhich divides the Congofrom the Nile. Thereforethe Welle must flow to the north. The PRESIDENT, in conclusion,said that what l:ladbeen read was a sufficient reply to those who believed there was no furtherwork to be done by geographical explorers. In the vast region betsveenthe Niam Niam country alld the Congoand the sources of the Benne on the one side, and in the land of the Gallasand the Somalis,wide tracts of unknown cotlntry still remained. The reading of Lupton Bey's letters, which conveyedvividly the impressionof the moment,and were not the less interestinglecause they were rlot arrangedinto a formal paper,called to mind the fact that they were written within a few days of the disasterwhich overtook Hicks and his artny. The knowledgeof that circumstance must make every one look forwardwith ansious interest for the next news of such a gallant and enterprising traveller, who, if his life be spared, will undoubtedly make known regionswhich at presentwere the objectsof eagercuriosity. The country through which the Aruwimi and the AVelle flow is the very part which Mr. H. H. Johnston had proposedto visit beforehe decidedto go to Mount Kilimanjaro,his intention havi:n been to leclvethe Congoat its northernbend and make his way acrossto the watersof the Wile. In so doing he would probablynave settled the questionof the directionof the Welle. He had, however,been naturallydeterredby the disturbed state of the Soudan, which made that portion of it inaccessible at present to Etlropcantrasellers.

fiSoenal and GallaLand; embodyzng tnfortion collected by theRezv. Thornas Wakefield.$
By E. GE. &y;sNSTE.
(Readat the EveningMeeting,March10th, 1884.) SINCEthe labours of Livingstone alld Stanle;y,and of their successors, have revealed to us the broad outlines of the geography of Southern :13quatorial Africa, there exists no region in that continent equal in e:xtentor richer in promlse of reward to a bold explorer than the countries of the Somal and Galla- Stretching away for 1200 miles from Cape Guardafui into ths basin of the Upper Nile, we are acquainted as yet with hardly more than its fringe, es:cept immediately to the sout:hof Abyssi:nia,where a broad wedge has been driven right into its centre. Our maps of the greater part of this region are still based upon frag* Vzde the R.GE.S. Map of Eastern EquatorialAfrica, by Rave:ustein, sheets 3-6 and 9-1L

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melltarynative inforluation, and he mrould be a bold manwho asserted that he possesseda definite knowledgeof even its most elementary hydrographical features. Vainly do we look to the ancients or to tlle Arabs for definite information respectingthe interiorof theseterritories, andalthoughFra Mauro, in his map of the world (1457)has given us a pictureof Abyssinia, surprisingly correct as to certain details, thollgh fearfully exaggerative with respectto distallces, and even indicatesa riverXibe, which in its lower courseassumesthe nameof Galla,and*finally finds its way into an arnl of the Indian Ocean, ag,ainst which is written the word" Diab," it is only sincethe Portut,uese, in their victoriouscareer round Africa,extellded their researchesinland into the countly of Prester John, that our geographicalknowledge assumes a definite shape. As early as 152S, Jorge d'Abreu,one of the gentlemen attached to the mission of Don Rodrit,ode Lilua, acconlpanied an Abyssinian almy into Adea. He is the first European mhostoodon the shoreof Lake Zuway,andup to within the last few years,the only one. Subsequently (1613) Antonio Fernandez vainly tried to make his way through the Galla coulltries to the Indian Ocean,and although he failed in his main object,he yet visited Kalnbate and Alaba,countries which no European has beheld since. A fervyearsafter him, in 1624, Ewather LobowalkedfromPata to the Inouthof tlle Jub in searchof an inlanclroute to Abyssinia. He too failed; but the namesof the twelve tribes,throughwhoseterritories ne was told his routewould lead,have kept their place on our maps domll to the bet,imlingof the present century,and this represented nearly all we knelvwith respectto it. It may with truth be statedthat the mapof Abyssiniapublishedby Tellez,is a geographical monument which does credit to the enterprise andcapacity of these earlyPortut,uese explorers. Andif, duringthe last two centuries, Portugal, exhaustedby e:Sorts quite out of proportion to the numberof her children, has allowedthe sta,:,eof geographical explorationalmost to be monopolised by others, it is all the more gratifying to find that in these latter days she llas once more sent explorersinto the field,^7hose sclentificaccoulplishments are quite on a parwith those of othernations. Until far into the nineteenthcenturyourknowzledge of the countriesunderreviewcan hardlybe said to have increased, and when the work of exploration was resumed, it was Englishmen who stoodin the san. Whilst Lieut. Carlessand other officers of the IndianNavy were busy surveyinO the coust,ColonelRigby,then on service at Aden,collected usefulinformation on the interior,and firstwrotean outlinegrammar of the Somallanguage. Lieut.Christopher, however, Mas the first to make important discoveries (1843),forduringthreetrips inland,*om Barawa, Merka,and Mokhdesho (Magadoso),he came upon the lower course of the V\Tebi Shabeela, whichhe namedthe I-Iaines river. M. Guillain,

SOMALAND GALLA LAND.

7

whose took on Eastern Africa will alwals maintainits place among geographical standardworks?visited the salne river in 1847, and determined the latitude of Geledi.* M. Leon des Avanchers, althotlgh he madeno excursions into the interior,yet greatly extendedourknoxvledge by careful inquiries among traw-elled natives?and it is to be regretted that only a mereoutline of his itinerariesshould have beer :ublished. In 1865Baronson der Deekellachieveda great successby ascendingthe Jub to beyondBardera, andif the explorerhimself lost llis life irl this enterprise, it is some consolation to us that the results of his work have been saved. The Jub has since been ascended for a considerable distanceby ColonelLon(t? who was attaclledto Admiral 3'IcRillopp's squadron,despatchedto the east coast of Africa, at the illstigationof Gordon Pasha,with ordersto take possession of a suitable point whence overlandcomlnunication might be establishedwith the Egyptianstationson the IJpper Nile. In Northern Somal Land, Lieut. Cruttendenis entitled to the creditof having first penetrated into the interiorof the country, for Mr. R. Stuart,whomSalt despatched to Zeylawith instructions to proceed to Harar, rteverleft the coast; whilst Lieut. Barker,who endeavoured to reach that point from Shoa in 1842, failed in his e:aterprise. Mr. Cruttenden lookeddownfromthe sutnmit of the Airansiduponthe broad vale of the Tok :Daror, or " river of mist " (1848). Captain Speke e:xtended these explorations sis years afterwards;and CaptainBurton, in 185S,achievedoneof thosetriumphs whichit is givento few travellers to achieve. :He reached Harar, the old capital of Adea, the first Europeanxvhodid so, althoughthat town lies within a few marches fromthe coast,andwas knownby reportto the old Portuguese. Among sore recent explorerswe may mention Heuglin (1857),whose excursions inland have not, however,been of any extent; Captain S. B. Miles (1871), who explored the Wadi Jail, to the south of Cape GFuardafui (1871); Hildebrand(1873), the botanist,who ascendedtho YafirPass; Haggenmacher (1874),who pushedhis way far inlandto the very borderof far-famedOgaden;Graves (1879), who explored the wicinity of Cape Guardafui;and last, not least, M. Revoil (1878-81) who, duringthree successiveexpeditionsthroughNorth-eastern Somal Land,did perhaps as much00rork as all llis predecessors takentogether. Tnthe meantime Hararhad been occupied, ;n 1876,by an Egyptian force colnmanded by Rauf Pasha, and almost immediatelyhecalne a focus of attractionto explorersand merchants, not, however,before GeneralGordon, during a flying visit to the place, had deposedthe
* Geledi,ill WI. Guillain's boolr, is placedin 2? 6' N., but this appearin? to lne to be a misprint for2? 16' N., I requested Captain Lannoyde Bissyto try and obtaina lookat the original records. These have unfortunately been de3troyed. The map, howes-er very clearlyplacesGelediin 2? 16' N*,and Captainde Lannoy writes: '; La carte que ja,i caRquee sembledo er raison a votre assertion- 3e VQS l'envoie avec la latitude ;leMagado:;;o deterl:ninee par le3 officiers du lVucouedie." No. V. AY 1884.] U

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AND GALI.A LAND. SOBlAL

he found Pasha,just as he had done four years previously wllerl Egyptian subsewas who the same installed on the Upper Nile. GLiulietti, him of map good a with us murderedin the Afar country, provided quently favourably already Taurin, hisroute from Zeyla (1879), and Father into the Galla through his work in Abyssinia, gave us an insight known his return on Cecchi, Gaptain to the west of Harar (1880). country and Harar, to visit a pa,y to way his the coast, turned out of from from penetrate to however, eSorts, All its latitude (1882). deterrained exception, ended disHararinto the interior have, vvith one sing,le French hI. Luceran,a scientific explorer in the service of the astrouslJr. had he Galla, when Ministryof Education, was murdered by the t.he visit to left that place, in 1881. Sacconi, who proposed sca.rcely march days' twenty country, met with the same fate when about Ogaden 1883); and Lazzaro the south or south-east of that town (Sth Au^,ust, to M. Rimbaud, afterwards. a Greek, shared the same fate soon Panajosi, and Co., Bardet Mazeran, Messrs. a gentleman in the service of however, the into trip trading a from safet;y is reported to have returned irl countryof the Ogaden. Land in a westerly Contilluing our survey of the borders of the Galla course of three the in where Abyssinia, and Shoa direction,we reach they have largely centusiesthe Galla have obtained a footirlg,but where more higllly civilised adopted the language and the customs of the the Hawash and the peoplewhose territories they invaded. Taking north, we find that the Abai as the natural boundaries of Galla Land in that line is as the number of modern travellers who have overstepped who conthose of many yet far from considerable. On the other hand, Beke, Dr. especially more and :finedthemselves to Abyssinia and Shoa, on information collected have M. Bochet d'Hericourt, and Dr. lirapf, proves knowledge of state present our in these southern countries, which still highly acceptable. days (1843) Lieut. Lefebvre was the first European who in modern Galla. He was crossed the Hawash into the country of the Soddo of modern Europeans succeeded in 1879 by Signor Bianchi, the first knowledge. Since who furnished an account of Gurage from personal the Galla through Shoa then Chiarini and Cecchi have travelled froln the cruel from Ghera at countries as far as KaSa. The formel died able to was Cecchi Captain but hardships which he was made to suffer, this Since information. solid storetof retuln to Europe with a rich Menelik Viceroy his and John King erlterprisingand arduousexpedition far as iliafEa;and the of Shoa have e.stended theit sway to the south as travel thus aSorded first European to avail himself of the facilities for in 1882. has been hI. Soleillet, who visited :CafEa of Abyssinia proper, with its south the to ilumediately The region population, was first loold mountains, deep valleys, and very lllised who visited Bonga in explored in a scientific spirit by BI. A. d'Abbadie,

2

SOMALAND GALLA LAND.

259

:liaSa in 1840,and traced the Gibbe to its source duringa second expedition in 1846. Someusefulinformation waslikewisecollectedb;ythe Roman Gatholicmissionaries, Massajaand I.eon des Avanchers,the latter of whomdiedat Ghera in 1879,aftera residence extendingoveranany years. More recent still than either of these expeditionsis that of the German, Dr. Stecker, the first to visit LakeZuwayzince1525. The last explorer whosenamewe have to mentionis J. M. Schuver, whoserecent murder in the Deekacountryhas cut shorta career of greatperformance duringthe past,and muchpromisefor the future. He was the firstand is still the only European who has penetratedto the Lega Galla,in the extrernenorth-west of the vast Galla Land. Dr. Emin Bey, the Governor of the EquatorialProvince, intendedto visit the Galla tribes lying to the east of the territories overwhich he so wisely and successfully rules; but recellteventshavewreckedhis plans. I may mention parentheticallythat the Lango, on the Upper Wile, are generally described as Galla; andthat Dr. Etnin,in one of his communications to the Journal of the GermanEthnographical Society,states that they are of the same race as the Latuka. If this is so, then the Lango cannotbe Galla,for an examinatiollof his vocabularies of the Latuka languageshowsthat these, at all events,are DIasai. IIence arises the furtherquestionas to the nationalityof the Wa-huma, who have given rulersto U-nyoroandU-ganda, andare net with as herdsmen fartowards Lake Tanganyika. In this rapidsurveyof the progressof geographical exploration we have mentioned the namesof a large number of travellers of meritX but a glance at the Society's map of EqllatorialAfrica, upon which their routesare laid down,showsthat the districtsexploredby them are still very limited in extent,if we compare them with the regionsinto which up till now no European has set his foot. Underthese circumstances corapilers of mapsare still dependent to a very largeextentuponnative information. Indeed, one whole sheet of the map just referredto, elnbracingan area of 90,000 geographicalsquaremiles, is exclusierely baseduponimperfect information of that kind,andseveralothersheetsof the mapare almostin the samecondition. Amongstearliertravellersto whomwe are mostlargelyindebted for information of this class are Cruttenden, Christopher, Beke,d'Abbadie, Guillain,andLeondesAvanchers. Tothesehonoured namesI nowwish to addthat of the Rev. Thomas Wakefield, who has laboured sedulously on the East Coast since 186S, and has allowed no opportunityfor obtaining information on the Galla countriesto escapehim. Before his returnto EasternAfricain 1883,that gentleman placedin snyhands a largevolumeof manuscript notes,and fromtheseI haveculledall such information as appeared to me to be of interestto geographers.
The Country of zhe liawiyah Sornal. It will be m()st convenient for future referencelf we arrangeMr. Wakefield's informationaccordingto the geot,raphical

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SO3IALAND GALL.4LAND.

districts with whichit deals. The country of the Hawiyah,whichestendsfrom Mokhdesho alongthe coastas faras H6pia,has hithertobeenmost inadaquately delineated on ourmaps. Mr.NVakefield is the firstto supply materials forindicatincr someof its moreprominent features. It is to all appearance a cotlIltry of white sands,producinx scantypasture, and aSording onlyin a fewlocalities a soil sufficientlyrichfor agricultural ptlrposes, or forthe growth of timber. Game is absent; lionsor leopards are neverseen; andeventhe hyenais veryscarce. Theprincipal tribesare the Abgal (including the royalclan of A1Takub,the AVa :tzk, the A1 Erli or "pot-bellies," the Arti (Herti),the Yusufand the Galmaha, in the southwest; the Moro Sathein the celltre, andtheAbrGithirr (Habr Gader) in the northeast. Hopia lies withinthe country of theselatter. It is merely a smallport,near whichgoodwaterandtiluber aref()vlnd.Amberis sometimes thro^nup thereon the coast. Sarur, a localityin the interior, appears to be oneof the morefavollred spots,and the Abgal,who live there in small villages,cultivatemillet, kunde, beans, water-melons, andcottorl, andkeepcamels, cattle,sheep andgoats, btltneither horses norasses. Thehome-arown cottonis spunby them,andwoveninto coarse tobasfor the men, the womencontenting themselves with goatslsins. Thereare nativesmiths,btlt they are capable only of doingrepairs. Tobacco, agricultural implements, andthe calicoin which the women wrapthe head,are imported from Mokhdesho.Thesearticles areveryexpensive, fora camelis ,,ivenfornineor ten yardsof tobacco, and a goatfora yardof blue cottonstuff. Slanrery is saidto be unknown among this tribe. TheMoro Sathe,in the centre of the country, aretheMurrusade of Guillain and the EmorZaidiof old authors. Theycultivatethe sameproducts as theirneithbotlrs. Theylikewise keepno horses. TheAbt,al, finally, arethe tribewithnThom Europeans comeintocontact at Mokhdesho. TheWebiShabeela or Zaines River. The WVebi Shabeela or Hainesriver,is apparently the onlyperennial riverof the Somalcountry. Therecan be no doubt that someof its head-streams rise nearthe city of Harar, but we areunable to say whether the AVaira, recently discovered by Chiarini, is oneof its tributaries, or finds its wayintothe Jub. The accounts whichMr.Wakefield received as to its source are most conflicting, and quite irreconcilable with the topot,raphy of the country around Harar, such as it has been described to us by M. Taurinand othertrustworthyEuropean travellers. One of his informants, Adamubin Mahamud, an Ogaden Somal, has embodied his ideasin a map,of whichwe give a copy,as a curious specimen of nativecartography.According to this nativetraveller, whom Mr.Wakefield describes as a man between fifty-five andsisty yearsof age,of mild disposition, andapparently intelligent, the rivercomes froma country calledKaran by the Somaland Bisan Gudda("much water") by the Galla. The rvestern section of this regionis a plain,flooded durinC foul months of the year,andcovered with poolsimbedded in reddish soil durillC the remainder.The riverof Karan, whichflowsthrough this country, has been traced for six daysupwards. It is a swiftstream, a stone's throw across when in flood, but dry duringthe greater part of the year. The easternsection of Karanis stony, with ruagedrocksscattered overits surface. There aresevenhollows, about300 feetacross, whichduring part of the yeararefilledwith rain-water.The Gojan Gallalive to the westof Kartin, theGeriE6mbeorKavlalala two daysto the north-east of it, ar.d the Ogaden Somal to the east. Thepathvfhich leadsfrom Sdrre in OCaden to the Gtibben Dorein the Idurcountry passes betxveen the eastern andwestern sections of Karan. To the south-west of Karanthe river,dividedinto two mainbranches, flows rounda lofty conicalmainland, rivenby frightful chasms, and calledBIat,hugha. Beyond, it is oDce moregathered up in a lake,BilekaMaabugha, llearly t}lewhole

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of which dries tlp in very hot seasons. There are fish in this lake, and vast flocks to it, but neither crocodilesnor hippopotamiare follnd. The river of birds lsesort or Webi Athari, thus named ShabeeIa, which leaves this lake is knownas the A5Tebi after Athari (Adari),a larte town, which is cvidently Harar. It receivesnumerous including the Unka, the swift Hiblau or " clean river,"the red-coloured triisutaries, ltrawln or " much soil," and the Kiliwlll or " big trench" from the east, and the

the Dabaderior "lon>-tailed river," the Durka or Khalodu or "crooked ri+7er," Daremale,and the Habwln (" much debris") from the west. Of these rivers,the after a grass much relished by Dvirlia (" from afar"), or Daremale, thus nanwed the cattle, is the most important. It has been tracedfor a month without reachinO source,is up to 100 feet in depth, and 300 feet wide, and its bed cuts through the red surface soil into the white urlderlyinCrocli. Its Bater is "red like blood.sX

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SOMALAND GALLALAND.

Treesare floateddown by it. Fish abound,but neithercrocodiles nor hippopotami are fotlnd in it. The Durka forms a delta, the minor arm of which is linown as Lama Bar, the " two palms." The Durka,notwithstandingits great size, dries up in very hot seasons,as does the Webi Shab&ela itself. The Webi Shabeelaflows throllghthe collntryof the Khota and HumbeniGalla. The formerare great aariculturists.* The millet which they growattains the thickness of a man'sarm. It takes ten months to ripen,and is then stored in granaries raised on poles. Both men and women xrork in the fields. A simple plouCh, drawn by camels or bullocks,is in use. Tobes of lemale cloth are worn by both seses, and the womenplait their hail, and allow the tressesto hanCdown. The Humbeni are a numerouspeople. They have more goat3 than any other tribe, besides horses,asses, camels, cattle, and sheep. They do not till the soil, but purchasethe corn they require from the Khota or at Athari (Harar), which is two days distant. The soil Win their country is of a reddishhue, and grass rows luxuriantly. Their dwellinCsare circular,from five to {en yards in diameter,and providedwith neither windows nor doors. The roof is almost flat, and althout,h large quantities of straw are piled upon it, it leaks badly duringthe rainy season The interioris dividedinto three compartments, of which the largestis assiCneelto stranCers, and has stalls for horsesin the corners,whilst the smaller compartments are the sleeping places of parentsand childrenrespectively. The OCaden are the enemiesof the liumbeni, as of all other Galla, the Bworana and Dadbant alone excepted. Umari bin Daud, an Abaal Somal, states that the NVebi Shabeelarises in a lake which lies at the foot of a mountain in the countryof the Arusia Galla. Tl-lls mountainis visible from Athari (Harar) and lies three to four days'journey to thc west of Ben. According to Umari,a travellerleaving Athariforthe south reachesthe countryof the Khote on the first day, that of the IIumbo (Humbeni?) on the second,and a camp of Bartlra Galla on the third day. One day beyond the latter he arrilres at lien, describedas a considerable town of Somal, who live on friendly terms with their neighbours, the Arusia or Arotosi. One clayfurther still he reaches a camp of the Arusia, near the Wdbi Shabeela, and thence as far as Ime he travels throuh the territoryof that tribe, always keeping by the side of tlle river. Ime is a place of some importance,alreadyklloxvnto us throuah d'Ableadie and Guillain. It is inhabitedby freedslaves, who ,rolv millet, wheat, and cotton, keep horses,cattle, sheep, and goats, and weavecotton cloth. They are black, Witi negro features. In time of danCerthey fly to the G6tana or cliff of Ime, to the west of their settlements. Tllis mass of lock is said to be a mile acrossand twice the height of the old castle at Mombasa. One day's journey below Ime is the district of the Karanle Somal, with several importaUnt settlements,where the river rolls between htzge blocks of rock, leaving, however, a passage in the middle for a boat to pass tllrourh. A large rivel is said to enter the WVebi from the northwest, three hours to the northof Ime. Six roads are said to convergeupon Ime, viz. the Jiduelaior " big road" which leads in a north-easterly directioninto the countryof the Gelemies; the Hablr road, which goes east into the country of the E!lam Somal, replltedfor their piety and high uloral standard; ths Dedbane or " road of the plain" which comes from Harar; a road fromthe same place whivh follows the NVebi Shabeela; and a much frequented path which conductsus to the country of the .&r60sa. Mr. NVakefield's informants are unanimous in eassertin(t that the AVebialJorre
* lLqbttomeans ' ploughman " in Galla.
t

Dadban or Dedbane, " dweller iIl plain."

SOMAL AND GALLA LAND.

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Ime is a mereperiodical river,whichdries up in the hot season,and harbours neither crocodiles norhippopotami. BelowKaranlethe rierer is of considerClble sizethroughout the year,but owinC to the strength of its currellt it is not navigated forcommercial purposes, andwhen it is in floodeven the hippopotamus huntersof Ime, who are reputed for their daring, do not venttlreto launchtheirboats. The ferry-boats, which are fourld at most of the villa(res, are haxlled over by a ropemadeof twistedcreepers. The banks of the riverarelow,andthe Somal, half-breeds, andfreed slaves, whoinhabit them,arethusableto irrigate theirfieldsby meansof canals. Woodis saidto be plentiful, andas llo rapidsare saidtc exist,Mr.\Vakefield sut?gests that it might be possibleto ascendthe river in a small steamer of srlfficient horse-powver. In its lowercourse theriveris saidto divideinto several arn:ls, inclosina largeislands between them,andfinallyto loseitselfin a lake,the size of whichvariesaccording to the season. The Somalcall this lalie Biyowlaor "great water,"the Tuni Bahrwen, which meansthe same thing,the Galla(according to Erapf)Balli,or "pool." In the lowerpart of the rivertherearea fewshallow places whereboats canbe punted across. Theroadto Barawa followsthe rightbaulv of the riveras far as Shakala, whare it strikesofEforthe coast. Themoreinterest;ng districtson this part of the riverareShabeela or Shabele (4'leopards'), apparently very populous, and inhabitedby pagans,and Shidla (" stoneless"), whichis inhabited by half-breeds, speakin(r Somal. l'hey arealso knownas Jital MoCi, which that they may" ignore the dry season," as they areableto irrigate theirSeldsofmillet,beans, sesamunl, Indiarl corn,and cottonby meansof canals derived fromthe river. Theinhabitants of this favoured reCion areMahommedans, andthey arereputed fortheircruelty. Theyarearmedwith bowsandarrows, andspears. Theyhunt the hippopotamus, andeat its fleshwhich pereSomal rle,ver do. Theyalsofishwith hookandline,anda}souse wicker-work trapssimilarto " crab-pots."Onlya few goatsarekeptby them. llaghalleappears to be the principal toxvn in the country. Thechiefplacesonthe lowerWSebi areG4ledi, the residence of Eammad Yusuf, the chiefof all the Sab, which consistsof threetowns:- Geledi,E1 Ghode, and Mardri;Golwen;Anoele, the chieftownof the Gonou Sornal;andShakale, where the roadforBarawaU leavesthe river. TAwe G[atla to tAleTfist of the IJp?erXeb. Five gleat tribesof Gallaappear to occupy the country to the vwest of the ZVebi, besides somerninor ones. Thegreat tribes arethe A1a, theAnia,andthe Aroosi, Arusi, orArusia, in the norbh; the Gerlre, in the centre to the westof Ime; and the Aroosain the south,as faras the Jub, which separates theln fromthe Bworana.rl'heminortribesmentioned by Mr. Wakefield arethe Altu, Gure, Panigal, andJxinti. Theso-called Dedbane roadfrom}Sarar crossesthe country of several of these. A fewhours'journeyfromHararbringsus into the country of the A1a,who are calledDebele or " tail-wearers " by their Somalneighbours, andwhohaverecently beenvisitedbyM. Taur;n.Nextto themdwellthe inia, orL6shll, as the Somal call them. A riverMunorMAdhale flowsthrough theircountry, andthe routefollows it for abcouple of days. It is a considerable river after rains, but LLearly dries llp in the hot season,and neithercrocodiles or hippopotami are foundin it. Several of the detached hills in the Aniacountry areusedas watch-towers, and firesare lit uponthem on the approach of OCaden froznthe east, Ala fromthe north-east, Dudafrom the west,or Gurre fromthe south. The Aniaarea poortribe apparently, for the men are contentwith a piece of cottonstufE thrownoverthe shoulders, whilsttheirwomen dressin goat31Kins.
mearks

264

SO}IAL AND GALLALAN'D.

The iltu, who occupya plainestending westwardto the footof lofty nlountainsy are said to be powerftll,and rich in kine, asses, horses, canaels,sheep, and goats. They cultivate a little wheat. The Gure, to the south of them, are a mixture of Galla and Ogaden. They are a peaceablepeople. The GaxveleJ who formerlylived aroundthe GubbenDorl (seeItinerary)whence they were drir7ell by the Idur Sonlale are a purely pastoral people on the bordersof Ogaden; beyond them live the Re Ille, who are lvarlike, and cultivate the fan-palm,for the sake of the fruit it bears. Of the powerfultribe of the Aroosi or Arusi, which extends northward to the Hawash and westwardto the Zuway Lake, and occupiesperhapsthe regionformerly known as Bali,* Mr. Wakefield tells us nothin, but he mentions the Panigal and the Janti, who live in the same region. The Paniaal, calledPani by the Somal,live to the west of the Re Ille and north of the Aroosa,who are their enemies. Their countryis described as a plain coveredwith lusuriant grass,and intersectedby a few rivulets, taking an easterlycourse. There are also some small lakes which never dry up. The climate is lvet and cold, and rain is stated to fall every day (?). They are powerfu], rich in cattle, horses,mules, asses, sheep, and boats,but without camels,as theircountr- does not yield foodsuited to these animals. They are said to have been first amon the Galla to embrace Islam, and the tomb of Sheikh Huseyn, their apostle, forms the principalobjectof interest in their country. Huseyn was a Somal from Harar,which he left for the avowedpurpose of convertingall Galla Land. The Debeli (Ala), whom he visited first, rejectedhis teaching; the Umbenho(?), Ania, Alu, and Gawele(?) declined to listen to him, whilst the Re Ille, after having attended to his teachingsfor a time, soon fell back into thoir old paaanism. It was only when he cameamongthe Panigal that he met with a more propitioussoil, and he consequentlysettled amongthem, gathering;disciples around him, and sendincrforth apostles to the neighbouring Bworana,Gerire,and Aroosia. He translatedthe Koran, and that holy volumeis now read to the Galla in their own languaCe. But althotlCh one-halfof the Panigal are still heathen, the memoryof Sheiiih Huseyn is llighly reveredamongall. Out of love for him Somal visitors are treated with unusual kindness, and when they leave the countrythey are t,iven a mule or ivory. As a result of these friendly relations many Sonzalhave settled down amona the Panigal, whose languageand customs they have adopted. Sheikh Huseyn's tomb is guardedwith much care. The saint lies buriedbeneatha sarcophagus made of rudely shaped slabs of stone about 6 feet in length and 42 feet in height. A circularhut, about 50 feet in diameter,has been built over the sarcophagus. Its side walls, about 30 inches in height, are made of posts and stone, its roof is thatched. WYomen and childrenare forbiddento enter this hut, bllt they, as well as strancrers, are permitted to seek shelter under a coveredarcacle which surrounds it, and wherecattle are slaut,htered for sacrificial purposes. A Somal and a Galla are attachedto this tomb as teachers, and they conductworshipin their nationallancruages. The Janti appearto be neighbours of the Panigal. Their countryis a wi(le plain of black soil, lusuriantly coveredwith grass. 'lhere are no forests,not even arounR the few lakelets or ponds, which are met one or two days' lnarches apart. The climate is cold, and mole rain falls than in the Pani country. The centraldistrict is liable to hailstormsduring the southernmonsoon. AlthouChthey are not equal in numbers to the Pani, the Janti are nevertheless an influential tribe, rich in horses, mules, asses, small cattle with lonfflhorns, goats, and sheep. Camels arc scaree; a little millet is grown. Men not entitled to wear thegutt6 or crinalbadae, * Bali (8? 50' N., 39?40' E.) is a district in SouthernShoa recently occupiedas a. missionary station,Galllu.

SOMALAND GALLt L.&ND.

265

shase the head completely. 01Volllen allow their hair to grow,and anoint it liberally with ghee, but do not plait it into tresses. Their garment is made of two goatskins, sewn toCether. The Arooscs, who live to the north of the Jub, which separatesthern from the Bworana,are quite distinct from the Aroosi, Arusi, or Aroosiaon the north, from whom they are separated by the Gerire. They are said to be the mothertribe of all the Galla, and are split up into numerousclans, includingthe Kako, Karlyu, Surihi, Ltigho Baddan, atld Uriya, and are second only to the Bworana in strength and numbers.* Wheat, Indian corn, and millet are cultivated, but pastoral pursuits predominate. Camels, kine, and sheep abound, as do horses, asses, and mules. The Aroosa are skilful riders, and can pick up a spear from the groundwhilst in full career. In war they dodge the spears of their enemies by hanging down the off-sideof the horse. They hunt on horseback,and when fortunateenoughto kill a lion, zebra,or giraSe,they hang tbe mane of the slain beast as a trophy round theil horse's neck. If an elephant is killed the tail is suspendedto a lofty tree near a frequentedroad,to proclaimthe hunter's prowess. No coWee is foundin the country, and the little that is vlsedis procuredin Nonso or at Ime. Among the products which the Ar60sa take to Ime are salt, myrrh, and the bark of a tree, called vunsi by the Somal, and khay ya ta7fataby the Galla, and even more highly valued than myrrh. T/le (7ourbtry of the Scibor Rahanwtn. The Sab, or Rahanwln, according; to Mr. WVakefield's informants,include the Tuni, the Jidu, the Erlai, the Digili, the Gebrun,&c. Umari bin Daud, himself a Somal,declaresthat they are not Somal, wllilst lsinzelbach (von der Decken ii. p. 320) describesthem as the descendantsof Somal fathers and slave mothers. They are evi(lently mllch mised with Galla,who formerlyoccupieda portion,at all events, of this country. On going from Mokhdeshoor Barawato Bardera or Logh on the Jub, tlle country of these tribes has to be crossed, and to the itineraries previously furnished by Guillain and Gruttenden Mr. AVakefielcl adds at least one that is new (No. 6), and accordingto which the journey from Mokhdeshoto Ijot,h, a distance of 190 geographicallniles, occupiesten days. Crossingthe WSebi at Geledi,the travellerpassesover the GelCel,a grassy plain, and throughDafet, reachinC the Bur, a " hill country,"on the third day. Tlle " Bur " is commerciallyof some importance,for its inhabitants,the Erlai, visit the towns on the coast, whele they part with their camels, cattle, and other prodtletsfor dollars,which they in turn invest in inligo-dyed calico, iron, tobacco, and zinc (for bracelets). They are rich in camels, cattle, asses, sheep, and goats, but have no horses. Red millet, beans, vetches, sesamum,and a little cotton are grown. Prominent among the hills in this reCionis tlle Bur Heba, very lofty, and wooded to its cloud-cappedsummit, which it takes twelve hours to reach. A spring rising near the top is held in high venerationby the Somal, who make pikrrimacres to it, spendinCas many as ten or even forty days fasting in a neighbourinCcavern or stone hut, until their prayers are respondedto by " an audible voice from an invisible presence." Near the same mountain live the descendants of the Galla Slleikh Mfihmin,who were sparedwhen the Somal invadedthe country, on account of the protection extended to the Sheikh by a mysterious bird, after whom he is named. Bur Dejji, the "snake mountain," about six hours fro * Elsewhere the LughoBadda,are statedto live far to tlle north-west of the Aroisa, against whomthey were led ill times lol, past by Hajje Dadaicha. 0n that occasion they suffered such seYere lossestllat they llavenot returned since.

266

AND GALLA LAND. SOMAL

whoguardits approach Umari snakes," aftertwo " petrified is thus named Heba, beforetheycal: to strangers, out pointed to be " require thatthese " snakes says andwooded. lofty as described is likewise, mountain, This such. as recognised be it. near abound andantelopes hyenas, leopards, Lions, of Erlai,abouthalf th& as a tomrn beyondthe " Bur,"is described Mad, Meala a day SAraman, walls. its within and with severalmosques of Mombasa, size Prophet, the of descendants or Ashraf by inhabited district it, is a fertile beyond andgoats,andtill the soil. sheep, arerichin cattle,camels, who at the back of the lower the Sab country, of portion a occupy TheBon,who furtherto the south, and country but who are also foundin the Bwortlns, Webi, gavawln(" Bonwith Bon or ") spears with Been (" waranli Been as knownalso are sugaests Wakefield Mr. and Kocho, or callthemIdle "). TheBworana quivers b;g live under who (Walangula), Wasania and Wata the with they are identical that looksuponthe Watua Fischer Galla., Dr.i amongthe Bararetta conditions similar of the Galla. kinsmen near as Wasania, the uporl especially Wadahalo,and more or them amonffl Those made. well are they speakGalla. Physically certainly They rhinoceros and elephant the pursue who hunters, are country live in the Sab who plunginga long spear by dexterously alld kill their quarry packsof hotlnds, with they subsist almost but cattle, keep Bon The abdomen. behindinto its from of the chase. uponthe products exclusively does not by Mr. Wakefield colIected iniormation lhe Jub.-The voluminous as its Gibbe the to points it of the Jub,although of the sources the question settle early the by held opinion the with aaree would This conclusior, head-stream. with conflict in although andCecchi, Massaja, by Leon desAvanchers, Portuguese, to us lead would which Beke, Dr. and d'Abbadie M. by collected information the of the Sobat. as the head-stream upontlle Gibbe look to the south of RaSs, to L)h tracesthe Jub from Wonso, Mr. Wakefield or Dau,or GanaleGuracha Dawe Webi as known is it Konso Below Bardera. and or Webi Durka("river red; be to said is water its ("blackriver"),although BelowLogh its name 4'capricious"? mean Dawe Does afart). from coming Jub beinCthe name "), river bi,:, (" Giweni Webi or to be lVebi Gana,ni, appears Arabs. the b;sr to it given appeanto be the largesttownon the Jub, which surrounds L6?h,or L6gho, beingclosedby a stone thus formed tee it on threesides, neck of the peninsula of trade to whichthe place great a and than Bardera, wall. It is muchlarger which wood, a scented manmks6to, and soda, of nitrate coffee, bringivory, Bworana The Balawa. from thither brought iron, cloth, &c., they exchangefor copper, plain The Mokhdesho. at lived brmerly who Somal, Gude areGasara inhabitants doubt hasredsoil andis well cultivated. Therecan hardlybe a told, the tow:n around was Wakefield Mr. maps. our of Ganana the is identicalwith that LoOh to the west of LoOh. district wasa wooded and not Ganana, that Ganani, however, LoCh. above towns aresmaller AthaleandKurtum at the footofwhichthe HEelf waswrecked the rapids Loghthe Jub forms Below to learnthat the andit is interesting Hele, Le in 18a5. Theserapidsare called at as ferry-boats emluloyed now der Dec',enare aron two boatstaken fromBaron rTir. Bal is the Gallanameof which Bardera, the west, frotn tributary a considerable to receive Jubappears tEle BelowBardera a Juba the with identifies actually Galagalot Worede which Salalu, viz. the Galana furnishes he which itineraries with the qvliteir1econcilable howeverX suppositioll, (Nos.7 and8). of Wama, with the Jub the country in connection to be noticed remains There accordance in Africa Equatorial Eastern of map in the Society's whichis delineated

SOM.4L iND GALLA LAND.

267

with a sketch made by the lVorede just mentioned. It abounds in lakes, all apparentlyfed from the Jub. The Deshek R'la Ghata and the Ddshek Wama only of these lakes never dry up, althouah the creeks mhich feed them do. The former of these lalses is four days round,and has a fringe of forest,in which dadGech trees are most conspicuous. The soil of this country is dark, and coveredwith lusuriant pasture; but it is avoided by the Sonzaloxningto the presence of the gendifly, svhich is even more destructiveof camels than of cattle. Formerlythe country was in the possessionof the Kobaba(Rokaba), Brajoleor Bararetta Galla, known to the Somal as Worra Dai (Wardai), but they were ousted about 1860 by the Kavlallata or Kablata Somal, and Wama appearssince then to have become a " no man'sland," only occasionallyfrequentedby Tuni and Erlai, Bworana, and Rablala.* Amonz,interestinglocalities in the AVama country should be the ruins of Reetlli or Keyrthie, a town two or three days'journey from the coast. It had stone houses and seven gates, but was abandonedowing to the quarrelsbetween the Kilio and Garrafamilies. Its inhabitantssettled at variousplacesalon the coast,and became known as Wabunya, or " robbers." TZze Btuoeana Galla.-The Bworanaor BoraniGallas have been known by name to Europeanssince the days of Lobo, but althouah M. LeoIl des Avancherscollected some more precise information respecting their country, it is only through the inquiries conducted by Mr. AVakefield that our map has been filled up with an abundantnomenclature. The Bworanaareundoubtedlyone of the most powerfulof all the tribes of Galla. Their country extends from the vicinity of the Lower Jub for a distance of 500 miles as far as Konso, a district to the south of Eaffa, believed to be the same as Kuisha. Konso, according to Mr. Wakefield's informant,is inhabitedby half-breedGallas,who excel as agricultllristsno less than as weaversof cotton cloth, the productsof their looms being exported to great distances. Their countrylies betweenthe NVebiDarl and the AVebi Kore,or Masai river,both of which they hae tappedto irrigatetheir fields. In the west the Bworanaboundaryis formedby a grassyplain or upland,known as the Sera or Serto, that is, " forbidden " land. Their neiahbourshere appearto be varioustribes of negroes,perhapskinsmen of the Shiluk or Bergo,who are known to estend from the Bahr-el-Abiadsouthwardas far as Eavirondo,on the eastern shore of the VictoriaNyanza, as well as the Rendileor Koreaddi (" White Masai,"as distinguished from the :Soremeth, or " Black Masai"), on the shores of the Lake of Samburu,which no European has as yet beheld. Their country, or at all events one of the principal sectionsof it, is known as Livin, which Mr. Wakefield under* Tlle Kablalainclude-the Kombeand S:vlmade.In 1869they joinedthe Marehan, Dir, and Erlai (Sab) in a predatory excursioninto the WorraDai (Bararetta)country, fromwhichthey returned hoInerich in cattle andfesnalecaptives. The Kablala,during the homeward jourlley,robbed the Erlai of their shareo? the plunder. About 1873the Erlai startedwith 7770 men to avengethis injury: in the Wamacountrytlley fell upon 500 Kablala,and killed 300 of them; flushedwith victorythey startedin pursuit,but, when crossingthe forest beyondDerep,they fell into an anlbush,and were colnpletely
routed.

As to the Bararetta,or Wardai,they are snid to be the descendants of Arusi and Baretuln,who left their country on accountof the privileges claimed by the eldel brothers. They first settled in Hambambala Jidat, a district irl the southerllBurrana country,and subsequently moved to the countryto the south of Tana, at that time inllabitedby the Limado. The Bararetta have had twenty-fivechiefs since, each of vhom rulesduling eight years,so that this luigrationInust has-etaken placeabouttwo hundre1yearsago.

268

,&NDGALLAL&ND. SOM.iL

or " place, and whicll Somal and Arabsrefer to as Ard to mean " prXitalJle stands el Liwen. Did was able to collect respectin this vast The informationwhich Mr. WXVakefield but it is not sufficielltlyprecise to copious, is miles square of some 7a,000 region indeed,what professes on a map. He Cives, us to lay it downwith confidence enable route is supposedto that by journey a as btlt IVonso, to be an itineraryfrom Logh to a mile a day, it than more hardly of no less than 210 days, being at the rate occupy which talie materials, disjointed virtually with deal to have quite evident that xPe is these utilising In country. vast this of by moreor less erratictracksinto all parts us this dismember to compelled been therefore have I map for the Society's materials as lifflhts such by links corlstituent its continuousroute, and to distribute apparently information the by and maps, sketch and notes NVakefield's aSordedby Mr. are collectedby M. Leon des Avanchers. previously of the informaas the mrhole I need not give here a long strinCof native names, to result from appears lnuch Tllis map. will be found embodiedin the Society's tion lrast pastoral a with here deal to have we that examination of these nzaterials, an devoid apparently but mountains, dotted over with detachedhills and lofty re(rion, plateau,such lofty a of edt,e an of whatever indication No all mountainranges. of of the Kenia and from Abyssinia to the refflion is supposedto extend souths^Tard as of the Galana exception the witll rivers, the of is afforded. None Kilimanjaro, appearsto Julo, the with I believe,identifies which olle informant,erroneously Salalu, but soon rains, heavy after torrent impetuous an perennial. They rvlshalong with be arealr. the of part greater the exhausttheir strenbtll, and are mere wadis during its for renowned jlto-is Ytilsa districts Treesare plentiful, and otle of the fly with their herds Galla the which to forests, even are There baobabs. gigantic of cultivation is not pressedby their enemies,and evidenceas to tractscapable when but is not culticountry, the of parts many in wild grows wanting. The coSee-tree ideasof the Some found. are zinc and vated. Game of all kinds abounds; iron white," " red,"arld " of terms descriptive the from formed be may of the soil nature or chall;, red loam, and "black" applied to it, which evidently referto limestones Magad. It is exported El of pits the in found is soda of Nitrate rocks. volcanic Olmis it with their aperient, an as water tothe coast, wherethe Somaltake it with dollar. a for Barawa at bought be may hatful snuff. A " nish " or coulltry. One of these Severalrouteslead from the east coast into the Bsorana Barawa,and leads from starts another Jub; the on Logh to leads fromMolvhdesho liver Jul) itself. the follows route third to the same place,or to Bardera; whilst a startina from route fourth a is there but considered, been These routeshave already explorers,for intending to advantaaes Kisimayu, which appearsto present greater Sab,who are or Rahanwln the of country the throucrh lead routes lvhilst the northern recentlyby only evidenced as with, averse to seeint,their trade monopolyinterfered rollte leads southern the country, their traverse to Revoil M. their refusalto allow almost direct]yinto the Bworanacountry. of the Jub, built in the Kisimayu is a Somal town, ten miles to the sollth whose quarters are ZanzibarisX of Swahili strle and occupiedby a small garrison but dlinkinSUP-1JIYX abundant an yield water brackish of Wells inclosedin a stockade. The town Jub. the from donkeJ7s or osen of watel is generallybrouahton the backs from Samburu, traders by even and caravans, Bworana by peace of is visited in times which they exchancre maycedi, xvhobrinCcamels, asses, hides, ivory, coffee-berries, luay requirc. they as articles such for traders Banyan and at the shopsof Arab of six days of ten journcy a is country Bworana in the FromKisimayu to El AVak only frequented plain dark a over day first the durinC leads road hours each. The beyond that hours Fivc Andarafo. to rains by the Somal herdsmen durinC the

269 place the Fara WVamo is crossed. This is a streamwhich leaves tlle Jub at Noferta, near Hindi. It reachesup to the loins lvhen flooded, but is usually dry. On the evening of the secondday the caravansarriveat Tapsau WVama, anotherlocality only frequentedduringthe cool season. The third station is at Derep, and leads over a plain dotted with pits which fill after rain. Beyond Delep a denseforest,abounding in elephants rhinoceros,and bufEaloes has to be traversed,after which the traveller emergesupon an open red sandstoneplain, with a fesv clumps of trees, in the centre of rhich lie the famous E1 WVak or ssGod's NVells,!' which supply an abundance of most excellent water throuo-hout the xrear;arld a Galla proverbsays that csonly rivers, rain, and El WXValS furnish real water, and that all other watersare deceits." Most of these wells occupy naturalpits, but othershave been excavated. They are very deep, and.the Galla descelldinto them by rlleans of tlle notchedtrunks of trees, tlle lowestman filling his giraffe-skin,which is tllen pitched up fromman to mail, until it reaches the surEace. From El WSak,l!Juk Buna or Bunat, the place of residenceof the Bxvorana chief Hllghashambalu, may be reachedin a few days. The Bworana aresplit up into two great sections7 viz. the Ya and the Yul (Yub ?), of whom the formerarepurely pastoral,aIldoccupy with tlleirherds of horses,cattle, camels,asses, goats, and sheep, the recrion towards the north west, whilst the Yul, thoughlikewise rich in cattle, cultivate also millet, spices, and dawa (a medicinal herb). In additionto these two subdivisions, Mr. Wakefieldincidentallymentions the B;ltll, and states that the Bararettain the south also claim kinship with the Bworana. The chief of all, Gobaharsame, resides in a district renowned for its beautyand fertility, within which rise the hills Buna and Betela, the latter being abouttwo dafTs' jotlrneyto the south of the Jub. The Bworana,accordinO to all accounts, ale a warlike and turbulenttribe, and the Masai cannot stand acrainstthem, although the Somal, their nearer kinsmen, appear to have occasionallyworsted them in the encoullters which they had with them. They are famed as horsemen,ridint their steeds with a wooden ?addleand stirrups made of a thong, with an iron loop large enough for the insertion of the bigtoe as a stirrup, and an iron bit and blidle. Great care is taken of the horses and maresof good breedsare carefullylooked after. Milk and gheeare given to the horses as the most nutritious food,and they are washedand greasedover with ghee togive them strength. I)urint,the heat of the day they are kept in stables built of stone, thatched with grass, and providedwith iron-bollnd doors,which are forgedby theBwor;ina smiths, for the holses are so spiritedthat no woodendoor would resist them. Twice daily they are taken out for esercise, viz. early in the morningand again in the afternoon,and four times daily a bell of brass orcopperof native workmanship is soundedin each camp or settlement, as a sign for the people to turn out to gather grass for the horses. NVhenhorses are employed in hunting, a corelis wound roundtheir ears so as to make them deaf. The huntsmenare armed with spears, swords, and bol1vs, and they ptlrSuethe elephant and rhinoceroswith the sword in the same manneras described by Sir SamuelBalSer in his ' Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia.' NVar appearsalmost a daily occupationof the Bworana. Their arms consistof a javelin, of a spear,, and a shield. WVarriors who have slain their rnanarepermittedto wear an ostrichfeatherstuck in the backof their head,as also a parti-coloured turban. Allstart on horseback,but as each "army" is accompaniedby a commissariat train of cattle, it marches but slowl-. On reaching the place it is intended to attack, the lnen dismount, tie their chalgers up to a tree, and advance on foot. There is ne orderof battle or tactical formation,each tnan actint,as he deen:lsbest If the enemy'svillaCeis taken by surprise,it is set on fire, all the n:lenare killed, but the womell and childrenare spared}to be carriedaway as slaves. The enemies

SOMALANTD GALLA LAND.

270

SOMALAND GALLA LAND.

aremutilated, but whilst youngwarriors preserve andtakehomethe spoilsof their crueldeeds in proof of theirachievements, old" braves " burytheir trophies in the enemy's country. Waichu, oneof Mr.VVakefield's informants, rejected with indignationthe suggestion that his countrymen cut off the handsof women, to secure the brassringsthey wore-a deedworthZr onlyof Masai. No quarter is given or expected. If the attacking partymeetswith a repulse, the horses afford it a ready meansof retreating, andptlrsuit is checked by occasionally wheeling round. Thecattle takenon these pltlnderinffl expeditions is firstof all collected within an "inclosure"such as that markedLafa I)anAba, or "plain of booty," on our map. Herethe bootyis divided, the largestsharefallingto the AbaDulati or general in command, andaftereachmanhas marked the beastsassigned to him, the wholeherdis driven hometo the villaCe of the raiders. Slaves, it is stated, are treated kindly. The Gallado not marry the slavesthey makeamong the Rendile, but occasionally coudescend to make them concubines, and sometimes partwitl themto a Somalfriend. Greatrejoicings take place on the returnhomeof a bandof raiders. On approaching the village the stolen cattle are sent forward. The warriors linger behind, untiltheirshoutsof victory bringoutthe women, whocollectaround them dancing andclappina hands, anduttering the shrillcry of deliaht peculiar to Africa. Not a wordis saidabotlt the slainandmissing as the crowd proceed to the settlement. Mothers or wives,anxiously inquiring for a son or husband, are told that the dearonestill lingersbehind. On enteringthe village,the womenbringforth sororos with a mi2zture of milk andgheeandwitll it anointthe head* andother partsof the bodyof the nvarriors who havekilled a foe,and also marktheir faces with streaks, oneblack,downthe forehead, twowhite on the left cheek,andone in bloodon the right cheek. This ceremony performed, the women'striumphaIlt shoutsgive placeto the son(tsof the warriors, in the courseof which the names of thosewhohavefallenareintroduced with a greatdealof delicacy. Eachof these mournful announcements is preceded by a low monotone, to which the women respond, andwhen the name of the fallenone is mentioned, the members of his familyfalldownwith greatweeping, and aredeafto all praise. This dutyto the dead performed, the deeds of the survivors areestolled,andthe trophiesbrought home by the youngwarriors are then publicly buriedin a hole dug outsidethe settlement. Thereligion of the Bworana, asof theotherGalla whohavenotcomeinto contact withothertribes, is a pureandsimpletheism, andno better idea of their religious notions canbe obtained thanthatgivenbythe prayers appended to Tutschek's Galla grammar.Theybelievein a supreme being,Wake, in a futurestate,and in the efficiency of prayerand sacrifices, but have no priests. Fine treesforming landmarksin the savannahs or plainsare favourite places at whichto meetfor prayer andsacrifice. Oneof the rnostfamous localities of this kind is in Lafan Dansa or " the beautiful country," where a Gallasaint,distingtlished for his uprightlife and loveof God,lies buried at the foot of a tree. Two ringsformed of shrubs surround the tomb,the outerringbeingopento all, whilstthe ;unerone is reserved for the eldersof the tribe,who thereoSerup prayers andsacrifices.Warriors whenthey departheucetakeup a little sandfromthe footof the treeto taketo theirwifefor " goodluck." Another of these meeting-places is in Iiafa dlmtu,the " red land," where sacrifices arebrought on the election of a chief. Even moreinteresting is the rocky plain calledD'ad'ap ("dre<am"), on the
* Tutschektells us in his vocaoulary that the ^varriors weara crownof thornson these occasions, ts preventthe ghee frorn runningdownthe face.

The PRESIDENT, in conamenting on Mr. Xavenstein'spater, said it was not that of a traveller,but of a man who threw himself so heartily into the laboursof others that he seenled to travel with every trclvellerwhose works he describod. It was

BOAT VOYAGEON \'ICTORIASYAXZA, ETC.

273

illteresting to healhim giving the credit whichwasjustly due to the Portuguese, avhoat present werenot in verygoododour with the British merchant. Amon(J others he mentioned that early missionary Lopez, whose works Dr. Johnson translated in the period of his youth and greattrials. Sincethen that unknown country ha(lawakened the adventurous spiritof almostall thse greatnations of the u-orld. Portuguese, English,French,Dutch,GEermans, had all contributed their qvlOtaXandthe last andoneof the most successful travellers therewas MrF NValSefield, to whomthe Societywas indebtedfor nqanyinteresting communications. AIr. Ravenstein had clearlyshownhowmuch still remaiIled to be discoveled, and lad thereby increased the interest takeniIl thatpartof Africa.

Boat Yoyaye alongtheql)estern shores of Victo; ia lYyan%a, fqonz Z9ancta to Kayeye;azd EzSloratiosw of Jordans rV?sIS-M By A. }X. MACKAY, C.E.
WVE are indebtedto the ChurchMissionary Society for the following

accountof a recentvo) age along the WeStel'Il slloresof TictoriaNyanza and exploration of Jordans Nullah,which they have receivedfromthei agent,BIr.Alackay.
THEBOAFr TO\-F\G E.
J-usee 97,1883, I left the mission station at Natele, in Bu-ganda (Ugallda); slept for the night at Kyikibezi, only 10 miles distant and near MurchisonBay. J2zwe 28.-Marchecl anothergood dozen miles to tlle plantationof Sebagoya (ir Selhukule's country)nearWaambwa lfill. Jesne 29.-Reached Mugula'scapital, Ntebe, after some eight mlles' march. Ju?e 30. Got men and loads distributedarnongthe canoes,and embarsedin fair weather. After a long pull reachedBunjako, at a point Ilear Sale Island, late in the day. Jetly 1. NYewere late in startin. The lake was rouahand the weathervery hazy, but it became smootheras we got under lee of Sese. Put in for dinner at my old camp in Sese, amonffl wild palm-trees. Re-embarking at 4 P,M. we paddled till after dark,hoping to reach }3ujaju, but put into a cove in a small lumpy island between Sese and mainland,and found here Sungura'sboat at anchor,en route for Usukuma. The crew were in huts ashore; they ha^7e a cargoof ivory and slaves ill stocks. This sailing boat has been eiCht days froanStebe to this, while we have coveredthe distancein two. We cut bush-woodto clear a place for our tent which zve pitched by the light of my lantern. The outer awning of my tent I rig vlp sezaratelyfor nly men to sleep under,as it is cold. J7zZy 2. At dawn it blew a cold north wind, and the dhow took advantageof it ly hoistillg sail and getting underway. My tent was alive with l)iting brown ants, which only fre and hot ashes will drive away. \Ve embarkedat lellgth, intenaliDC to make for the oppositeshoreof Bujaju,where wc must buy someearthen

pot3for cooking. Windunfavourable, so we strikesouth, whilethe dhowheld on llerway to Dumo. By 3 P.M. it got rouOh.WATe soonafterlallded on an openbeach nearMbroya{ra, thecountry seatof Mungobya, +ho has just ret-urned floma lvarin KalaCwe, arhither hewassentwithanarllly, to puta certaill grandson of Rumanyika's oll the throne, andplunder someotherclaima:at; he hadreturned with largetooty of cattle,women, andslaves,as is the custom in Bu-,anda. 50. V. MsY 1884.] x