South Africa’s Historic Speakeasies Are Still Thriving

It’s been a tumultuous journey for the shebeens of South Africa, but these once-illicit speakeasies run by strong entrepreneurial women have quite a story to tell. These establishments began to pop up in women’s homes in the 1800s and expanded significantly after 1927, when the Liquor Act was enforced and prohibited non-white South Africans from entering licensed establishments that sold alcohol and also from selling alcohol themselves. When the Great Depression followed shortly thereafter, the state of the economy solidified shebeens—and the shebeen queens who ran them—as a place of refuge from the harrowing realities of daily life.

These savvy businesswomen realized that there was a strong market for their African beer, which not only tasted different from the commercially manufactured varieties but was also much cheaper. Umqombothi (meaning beer in Xhosa) is traditionally brewed by women at home using generations-old recipes and a mixture of maize, malt, sorghum, yeast, and water. It’s left to ferment for a few days to develop its creamy, thick texture and distinctive sour twang. However, with the onset of police raids to confiscate the illicit hooch, the women devised speedier methods by which to make their beer. In the process, the initial alcohol content of 3 to 5 percent was amped up by the addition of denatured alcohol. Overconsumption of the brew with these chemicals could prove toxic or fatal.

Particularly after apartheid legislation was enforced in 1948, these makeshift and illegal businesses became havens for those seeking to express their thoughts freely. They also served as a breeding ground for artful forms of expression from talents such as musician Spokes Mashiyane and guitarist/composer Allen Kwela—trailblazers who created the hallmark sounds of upbeat African jazz and kwela: pennywhistle-enriched street music with jazzy undertones.

By the ’60s, shebeens were becoming commonplace throughout South Africa; in fact, there were reportedly more than 10,000 in Soweto alone. The burgeoning demand marked a shift in how the shebeen queens began to carry themselves and be seen by outsiders—as stalwart and independent. It’s a shift that was solidified by pop culture with films and literature such as Bitches Brew and Down Second Avenue—where strong-willed female protagonists fight to achieve a better life for themselves and their families and gain financial independence.

Today, South Africa is seeing a resurgence of these cultural relics, which honor the hardships of the past as well as the freedoms it helped grant its citizens—though (most of) today’s shebeens are tame compared with their predecessors. Regulation is now enforced and businesses are required to be licensed (long gone are the days of speedy, toxic brews). And while these legal entities also stock mainstream beers and spirits, and defiance has been replaced with relaxed vibes, there’s still no shortage of sass and lively rhythms. Here are the ones you should check out when you make a visit to South Africa.

Sakhumzi Restaurant6980 Vilakazi Street, Orlando West, SowetoTelephone: 011.536.1379Located on the historic Vilakazi Street, this popular shebeen has been run by its owner, Mr. Sakhumzi Maqubela, for 15 years now. With an array of classic and customized cocktails on the menu, this restaurant is most famed for its Soweto-style African feast, which includes knuckles, giblets, hooves and mogodu (tripe), pap, samp and gravy, traditional bread, and chakalaka salad. The restaurant was selected as the winner for Best African Cuisine in 2011 and nominated numerous times since then by the Restaurant Association of South Africa (RASA).

The Radium Beerhall282 Louis Botha Avenue, Orange Grove, 2192, JohannesburgTelephone: 011.728.3866This is the oldest surviving bar and grill in Johannesburg. Started by the Khalil family as a tearoom in 1929, the Radium held a secretive and dangerous double life as a shebeen by selling alcohol to black South Africans who were banned from drinking “white man’s booze.” Today, its vintage tin-embossed ceiling reverberates with the sounds of lively jazz music that plays in the evenings. Come here for a drink or just to soak up the historic ambiance—the space is full of memorabilia from the bygone era.

Kitcheners Carvery Bar71 Juta Street, Johannesburg, 2000Telephone: 011.403.0166Over 100 years old, the original fittings and trimmings still remain in the space. Contrast that aesthetic with its progressive playlist that blasts everything from indie to Afro beats. Come here for cocktails, beers, and to dance the night away.

Mzoli’s MeatNY 115, Shop 3, Gugulethu, Cape TownTelephone: 021.638.1355Since 2003, this self-described “do-it-yourself” market and eatery allows patrons to purchase cuts of meats from the owner, Mzoli Ngcawuzele. The meat is then given to independent entrepreneurs running braai (an Afrikaans word for barbecue or grill) stalls on the grounds to cook it and prepare meals. It is very much a social affair—live entertainment and music is a staple.

Pinky’s Place32301 Makhaza, KhayelitshaFor over 50 years, Pinky’s Place has been a family-run operation. From being in her grandmother’s ownership, to her mother’s, and now to Pinky Mary Jane Kobe’s, this shebeen holds a long lineage of empowered female owners. It’s a popular spot with locals and is ideally situated across from a park in Soweto. Patrons often order the special Leopard beer: Pinky’s famed brew. For less than $1, you can enjoy this homemade concoction that’s poured into a metal can; but sip it slow, it is deceptively strong stuff.