In 1869 two Montana fur traders, John J. Healy and Alfred B. Hamilton, traveled north to British/Canadian territory (formerly Rupert’s Land owned by the Hudson’s Bay Company) that was largely absent of any government presence. The duo sought to build a trading post (originally called Fort Hamilton) where they could trade alcohol for bison robes from local First Nation groups after such business was outlawed in the United States. Within the first year the fort burned down, but it was rebuilt by William Gladstone, a former Hudson’s Bay employee and boat builder. This time the structure was fortified with two bastions armed with cannons, loopholes for firing rifles, ramparts, and heavy gates. The newly built structure, now known as Fort Whoop-Up, took two years to construct, cost an estimated $25,000, and contained more than 6,000 hand-cut Cottonwood logs.

Peeking inside the replica fort. Photo Credit: Tyler Dixon

The site of Fort Whoop-Up was not chosen by accident. The confluence of the St. Mary’s and Belly Rivers was a favourite wintering ground for the Blood and Peigan people of the Blackfoot Confederacy. Within six months of the original post being constructed Healy and Hamilton returned to Fort Benton in Montana with furs and bison robes in excess of $50,000! Word of their success spread quickly and more than 50 trading posts would eventually be constructed across what is now southern Alberta, but none larger or more notorious than Fort Whoop-Up.

Inside Fort Whoop-Up. Photo Credit: Tyler Dixon

Violence followed the whiskey everywhere. Alcohol and Smallpox wreaked havoc on local First Nation groups and rifles only added to the devastation. Hoping to capitalize on the Blackfoot’s decimated numbers the Cree and their allies invaded in 1870 only to suffer hundreds of casualties at the hands of the better-armed local tribes. The Battle of the Belly River, as this invasion came to be known, happened incredibly close to Fort Whoop-Up, only adding to its already infamous reputation.

Repeater rifles stored inside the armory. Photo Credit: Tyler Dixon

The Canadian Government, back in Ottawa, began hearing reports of the destruction, the fighting, the whiskey, and the lawlessness that was happening on the western plains. To combat these issues and bring some semblance of order to their western territories the government created the North West Mounted Police (NWMP), eventually becoming the modern Royal Canadian Mounted Police or RCMP. The newly formed police force headed west and arrived at Fort Whoop-Up in 1874, finding the place all but abandoned. The NWMP rented accommodations at the fort while establishing out-posts along the Canadian/US border to combat whiskey smuggling, horse raiding, and other criminal activity. A large portion of the fort was irreparably damaged during a fire in 1888 and by 1900 the entire building was uninhabitable. Many of the buildings were destroyed by fire or flood and others were later removed for salvage.

This is what the trade room would have looked like. Photo Credit: Tyler Dixon

Outside the replica fort are two other important pieces of history. The first is a set of tipi rings that were originally mapped and transported from the Lindy Campsite, just over 10km southeast of Lethbridge. There is also a solitary rock of great cultural and spiritual significance known as the Medicine Stone. The inscription on the informative plaque nearby recalls the legend,

Many years ago a Native hunter saw a figure descend a coulee and sit down at the foot of it. The hunter thought it was a Medicine Pipe Man so he crossed the river, searched, but found only a granite stone. That night as he slept near the stone, a person appeared in his dream and said, “My son, I am the rock you saw. I want you and your children to come to offer me peace offerings at all times.” The people of the Blackfoot Confederacy called the stone Mi’k(l)atowa’si, translated as “that which has become red-holy”. Others called it ‘The Painted Rock’ as the stone was coated with reddish-brown soil to emulate the red blanket of the holy Medicine Pipe Man.

Both sites are easily accessible while visiting the fort, but should not be disturbed for their historical and cultural importance.

The Medicine Stone is located outside the fort. Photo Credit: Tyler Dixon

Today a commemorative plaque sits where the original fort once stood. In 1967 a replica was built in Lethbridge’sIndian Battle Park, approximately 10km northwest of the fort’s original location. Unfortunately none of Fort Whoop-Up’s original structures survived beyond the early 1900’s. Fort Whoop-Up is now a National Historic Site of Canada and is operated by the Galt Museum. You can tour this historic site during the summer months. If you’re a fan of Alberta history please consider reading my previous posts on similar topics, such as Red Deer’s Roots about Fort Normandeau, From Police Outpost to Modern City about the birthplace of Calgary, and Written In Stone about Writing-On-Stone Provincial Park and its own historic NWMP outpost.

Tyler is originally from Saskatchewan, and yes he cheers for the Roughriders, but don’t hold that against him as Calgary has been his home for the past eight years. He is a teacher working at a wilderness-
based treatment program for youth working to overcome addiction. Tyler is also a volunteer with the GOT Parks initiative, which aims at reconnecting Canada’s youth with our national, provincial, and territorial parks. During his time away from work, Tyler enjoys outdoor activities, such as hiking, biking, and snowboarding, team sports, travelling, photography, spending time with good friends, and being at home with his wife and German Shepherd, Rome.

Related Articles

Skiing and snowboarding are favourite pastimes for many Albertans during the long winter months. Spending time with family and friends at any of our fabulous winter resorts is an amazing way to enjoy the coldest […]

For those of you that have been following this series, you’ll likely remember a story I posted back in November that detailed the work of Rescue Specialists with Kananaskis Public Safety (KPS). For that piece […]