Jewellery

In the art and antiques market, the jewellery category spans the millennia from ancient artefacts fit for Cleopatra herself to modern branded wares by famous French and American ateliers. This may include objects of significant intrinsic worth – valued for the gemstones and precious metals from which they were made – but also objects fashioned from more humble materials that are appreciated simply for the excellence of their design.

Among the more eagerly contested entries to the Woolley & Wallis (25% buyer’s premium) sale on January 24 was a late 19th century replica of the Alfred Jewel: the great example of Anglo-Saxon goldsmithing found in Somerset in 1693 and today one of the most popular exhibits at the Ashmolean Museum.

The rivière – one of the most popular and enduring styles of necklace to come out of the Georgian period – features an endless line of matched or subtly graduated gems set within inconspicuous collets.

Deemed a little ostentatious in some circles, tiaras have enjoyed a surge in popularity in recent years, particularly in Russia and the Baltic states where jeans and a diamond fascinator are de rigueur at informal high-society events.

Although the centre never closed during the Crossrail project, as that work winds down Grays Antiques Market now has a fresh chance to showcase the many exceptional dealers based in the Edwardian building on Davies Street in London. As one might expect near Bond Street, period jewellery, from Roman rings to 1970s retro, is the main stock in trade.

With the British Library’s acclaimed Anglo-Saxon Kingdoms exhibition shedding light on this sometimes overlooked and misunderstood period, the timing is perfect for a Derbyshire saleroom’s announcement of a remarkable collection coming up for sale.

On any shortlist of iconic jewellery designers of the 20th century, few would disagree with the inclusion of brands such as Bulgari, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany and Cartier. But what of the next tier of designers from the past 100 years and how affordable are they to collect? ATG asked Nicola Whittaker of Fellows' London office to pick five 20th century designers in the auction house's January 24 sale, from household names to rising stars.