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There is only one A/C system split into 2 zones. Check the blend door actuator, it may have failed in one position or something may be jamming it. Also check the control panel in the dash, My 98 yukon did the same thing, no matter what temp you selected for the front it would blow at about 70 degrees. There is a circuit board in the control panel that gets corroded and one of the circuits controls blend door operations. Have a look.

It sounds silly but there is a separate unit in your console that you can only turn off if you go in from back seats. You probably already did that, but if not try. You can not turn it off from any controls on front panel. If it doesn't work, I would think something is wrong with the switch. Open it up and look at wire connection from switch regulator. It also has a heat regulator on the console facing back seats? Mine does anyways.

Remove the front cover of the unit to expose the cooling coil. Put the unit on and observe if there will be formation of frost (ice) on the coil. If there's frost formation, the common cause is dirty cooling coil. Have it cleaned using an alkali base coil cleaner. If the coil is clean, then the problem is the fan motor. It might be turning slow due to copper loss. Have it replaced.

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The main Hi-Pressure cap is under the Gas Tank. You'll have to remove the tank to access it ... But there's an overflow reservoir with it's own cap behind the Right Hand Side Cover, just below the seat.

Remove
the left handed screw from inside the chuck, put the drill into low gear then
lay the machine on it's left side, fit a suitable spanner on to the slot behind
the chuck and arrange it so that the spanner is against the work surface. Put
the chuck key into the chuck and give it a hard blow so you knock it in an anti
clockwise direction. If it is a keyless chuck or you don't have a key try
holding the short end of a large allen key in the chuck and knock the long end
in a anticlockwise direction. This will work even if you don't have a
spanner to fit behind the chuck but you might have to hit it harder. If
you have a vise after removing the screw hold the chuck in a vice and fit the
spanner behind the chuck and turn it anti clockwise.

The clutch bleeder is behind the left engine cover, you will have to remove the left exhaust from the head and also the left front foot peg in order to get it off should be about 5 bolts holding engine cover on dont worry its just a cover no oil leakage from that side, then it will be down just above the frame, it will have clutch hose going to it.. to Bleed it remove cap on leftside handle bar make sure fluid level is 3/4 fulll hold clutch lever in then open valve, let air out then close valve release clutch lever, should fix if not repeat bleeding until you have good pressure on clutch lever, dont let fluild get to low . once pressure is good refill and put cap back on. put bike back togather and RIDE good luck

This is a "pressurized" system, any leak will allow air to build into the upper area of the heater core. The solid pipe that carries the fluid around the front of the engine, to the core, has "bleeder" brass valvesateach end to letout the air pockets. But,as long as the system has a leak, even minor, the fluids will evaoporate & leak out, until you crack a head or short block. It MUST CARRY 16 Lbs Pressure. I have hadso many "no it all" family membersask me why there vehicles, are overheating loosing fluids. I recommend to change the Radiator cap immediately. They never do, then when the car is in my drive, blowing anti-freeze out the tail pipe, I even show them that the cap (many,many times) caused the 15 lbs pressure leak. The refuse to believe it. After my step-daughter had 2 blown heads in 3 years.........had a colling issue a month ago. Step 1, she changed the cap. NO FURTHER TROUBLE,..........hmmmm Sounds crazy, but, the have to be "pressurized.

I worked at a Nissan dealer for 18 months and we'd get a lot of these in. The cold heat at idle is accompanied by a sloshing noise from behind the dash - you've got an air pocket in the heater core. What we used to do was lift the front end of the car about 3 feet off the ground using the hoist and take the rad cap off. Then we'd run the engine at a fast idle (jam a screwdiver against the throttle stop to hold it fast or put a slight weight on the pedal if it's Electronic Throttle Body. Run the heater on full heat and the engine like this. You'll see the rad 'burping' as the air in the cooling system travelling to the highest point it can - the open rad cap. Top up with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water as you go. When it burps no more, you have a full cooling system and should not suffer any more "cold heat".

If you do this yourself, PLEASE use jack stands, block the back wheels and put the parking brake on!!!

Your ultra has rear air shocks. on the right side of the bike in the area of the fender is an air valve to install air. Do not add anymore then 25 lbs. a hand pump is safer an air compressor or gas station can have so much pressure it will blow the seals before you take the nozzel off. You will have to remove your hard bag to see the air input. Looks like a tire air nozzel should have a silver color cap on it.

Hi,The gouge in the beginning is either from the planer being set too deep or holding too muchhand pressure on the back end of the tool. Trymore pressure on the front end when you first hit the door and then pressure the back end as you leave the door. You will need to experiment to find just the right pressure points. On the final passes sight the door for straightness and fix any unevenness in the door. You can also try real shallow passes since this makes finding the pressure pointsmuch easier. Also the planer should be set ata 1 or 2° bevel away from the **** mortises sothat the door is not hinge bound when closing it. When the bevel is set, it is a little harder togouge the door because the initial passes are only hitting or kissing the back end of the door. I hope this helps.