Hey mike i was just wondering with the adjustable front end when you measure caster on the setup station do you use some kind of a caster doodle or do you eyeball it.. i cant get it where i am comfortable that if i set it at 2 degrees that its actually 2 degrees any tip or help would be great or just make caster doodle for us to make life easier .....By the way i ran the f1R2 this past weekend on parking lot white asphalt ...very loose ..used some tips including the stock kit tires upfront and it was amazing... car worked flawless thanks for everything. ...by the end of the day guys where looking in there pit boxes for there kit tires cause it worked so well

Hi! Kit tires FTW!

Yes, you would have to use a camber gauge with the wheel off and see how the pin lines up regarding the caster. There are some sedan tools for caster checking but they are all clunky. Eyeball is still the way.

Noticed your new diff assembly available on the website. Wondering if there's any issues with dirt getting between the concave disks and affecting diff smoothness with all the holes machined into the assembly?

None the less I've got a set on order to try soon.

Guessing an F1R2 complete kit can't be too far away once the IFS is out? Not exactly many parts left from a f104 now.

Hi,
The wheel and outter bearing covers up the the thrust and washers so no issues with that

Hey guys looking to figure out the setup on my f1r2, and am trying to understand some setup options. Moving the rear pod to the rear mount holes, the top deck for the pod to main spring back and forth, etc. What does that all do? I have only really understood sedan chassis setups. Trying to find more info on these options

Short wheelbase might give you more on power traction but less stable mid corner (or more responsive depending on how you look at it lol). Opposite for longer wheelbase.

I see the pic above looks like he's running the ifs? What rear wing is that?

Car was great last night. Amazing how when traction would come up the car would go away quickly. I was TQ by a lap in first qual, running a 9.8 to their 10.1 and 10.4. Second qual, car had tons of steering and rear would suffer because of it. Lost TQ, we all got quicker. My 9.4 now, to their 9.6. Race time, I went to the golds on the front steering kingpins, from silvers. Still copper side springs, still neon yellow center spring. Car at this point couldn't corner without picking up the inside tires. Traction roll. How can I tune that out? Back to soft fronts? Stiffer side springs?

I race my F1R last week in a F1RC series race the car ran great I had my best F1 race qualified 3rd in the first round broke my carbon fiber axle in the second round while running 3rd. In the main started 5th finished 2nd. Ran the kit setup car handled great much better then my F104v2.

I see the pic above looks like he's running the ifs? What rear wing is that?

Car was great last night. Amazing how when traction would come up the car would go away quickly. I was TQ by a lap in first qual, running a 9.8 to their 10.1 and 10.4. Second qual, car had tons of steering and rear would suffer because of it. Lost TQ, we all got quicker. My 9.4 now, to their 9.6. Race time, I went to the golds on the front steering kingpins, from silvers. Still copper side springs, still neon yellow center spring. Car at this point couldn't corner without picking up the inside tires. Traction roll. How can I tune that out? Back to soft fronts? Stiffer side springs?

The rear wing is the F60 wing with Tuning Huas carbon side plates
I will let mike make a comment about the first question..

What kind of surface are you racing on? I would assume carpet if the car is traction rolling and lifting the inside tire. I don't know a lot about the Tamiya springs and find i am most comfortable with the Associated 0.016 front springs and Associated black side springs. If youre running on asphalt i really like the stock Associated Silver spring and the same 0.016 front. typically from my experience a stiffer side spring will settle the car down in the corner.

Also one thing to consider: if your main shock is too stiff it can cause the car to roll more in the side suspension. if the shock is so stiff that it will not let the car transfer weight front to rear, the only place that the car can get rid of that energy is through pushing on the side springs. To counter this I run a really soft main spring and find that the car drives a lot flatter because it can transfer weight and let the car work more mechanically. I run the Tamiya flouresent red spring (looks like orange to me) with 20 weight Associated oil. It sounds really light but I have found it to work well most everywhere.

The rear wing is the F60 wing with Tuning Huas carbon side plates
I will let mike make a comment about the first question..

What kind of surface are you racing on? I would assume carpet if the car is traction rolling and lifting the inside tire. I don't know a lot about the Tamiya springs and find i am most comfortable with the Associated 0.016 front springs and Associated black side springs. If youre running on asphalt i really like the stock Associated Silver spring and the same 0.016 front. typically from my experience a stiffer side spring will settle the car down in the corner.

Also one thing to consider: if your main shock is too stiff it can cause the car to roll more in the side suspension. if the shock is so stiff that it will not let the car transfer weight front to rear, the only place that the car can get rid of that energy is through pushing on the side springs. To counter this I run a really soft main spring and find that the car drives a lot flatter because it can transfer weight and let the car work more mechanically. I run the Tamiya flouresent red spring (looks like orange to me) with 20 weight Associated oil. It sounds really light but I have found it to work well most everywhere.