I know why people pin their 14.5 in barrels. To get around SBR issues and bring the OAL back up to 16 in. But why are people getting their barrels in 14.5 in the first place? Personally its more asthetically pleasing, from what I have seen. I have read its not as rough on the gun, and even with the flash hider, compared to a 16 with a FH its still about an inch shorter.

Are there other reasons?

I have been contemplating doing this myself. I know I will never run a suppressor on my AR's. Dont want to invest the hassle, time or money into it. And I also know the chances of me changing my FH to anything other than the A2 is just about 0. For me, it's not something that is of concern. The A2 works pretty good as it has for many years. So any reason not to perm a FH in my case? I know I will lose a few FPS in velocity. Any other reason not to?

For those of you that do, why? Those of you that don't, why?

I guess I should also add. Is there any real truth to 16 being more harsh than 14.5? If so what parts are wearing out early?

WoodenPlank

02-04-2012, 17:11

First, a standard A2 is not long enough to bring a 14.5" to legal length. You'll need an A2X or other extended FH.

Biggest reason not to do it is that it locks you in to the muzzle device, and it makes it much more difficult to replace FSB, rail system, etc. since you will not be able to change out the barrel nut without removing (and likely wrecking) the pinned muzzle device. IMO, unless you are getting a deal on the shorter barrel, stick with a 16" barrel - a hair more velocity, and less headache if you want to change anything down the road. I've had no less than 3 different pinned 14.5" uppers, and have no interest in ever having another one, unless I just get a steal on the barrel/upper.

faawrenchbndr

02-04-2012, 17:16

I normally stuck with 16" barrels.....recently got a deal on a 14.5" AA
piston upper. Has a good Sampson rail and a pinned flash hider/suppressor adapter.

Works for me.......

MadMonkey

02-04-2012, 17:19

I built an AR lower and put on a 14.5" upper with a pinned flashhider.

Now I want a Dynacomp.

Guess I gotta build another one... :whistling:

faawrenchbndr

02-04-2012, 17:47

Pinned flash hiders can be removed,.......ya just have to use patience.

themighty9mm

02-04-2012, 18:07

First, a standard A2 is not long enough to bring a 14.5" to legal length. You'll need an A2X or other extended FH.

Yes I am aware of that, shoulda been more specific

JaPes

02-04-2012, 19:39

For those of you that do, why? Those of you that don't, why?

I wanted a 14.5" barrel just because it's what I wanted. Being locked into a pinned muzzle device isn't an issue for me. Suppressors are illegal in Illinois, and I'm perfectly happy with the A2 style flash hider.

Go any shorter, and I'd have to go through the SBR process & pay the tax. I don't want to do that.

First, a standard A2 is not long enough to bring a 14.5" to legal length. You'll need an A2X or other extended FH.

I got the 14.5 because it more resembles an M4. I pretty much just have an AR for sentimental reasons.

thisaway

02-04-2012, 21:36

I got a BCM 14.5-inch middy with A2X because that was what I wanted to replace my BCM 16-inch middy. There's not much difference, but the 14.5 seems to balance a bit better for me than did the 16. YMMV.

txgunguy

02-04-2012, 22:47

14.5" just handles better. It doesnt sound like much difference but hold them side by side. Once I shot a friends 14.5 with pinned vortex, I was hooked.

I had 16" barrels but I never changed my muzzle device once I got the one I like. I figure why not get the barrel that handles better.

As far as rails, I don't put them on my ar so it's not a factor for me.

MrMurphy

02-04-2012, 23:05

Carried a real 14.5" M4 for years.

The 16's handle the same to me, the tiny bit of extra length is irrelevant and I like being able to swap flash suppressors or other parts.

Nutt51

02-06-2012, 13:45

I have a BCM 16" middy and a BCM 14.5", middy.
The 14.5" with the longer A2 welded on is about 3/4" of an inch
shorter than my 16" middy with the regular A2.
I personally will never buy another 14.5" AR.
The hassle of the perm. attached hider for 3/4" inch difference is
not worth it to me. PITA with some gasblocks, sights, and handguards.
If I were going for a 10" to 12" SBR, that's another story.
This is just my opinion and my rifles.

surf

02-06-2012, 14:01

I really have little issues either way. I do like 14.5 as I do note a very small difference. But the main thing is that I do my own work so if I need to change things around I can do it. However in reality I am pretty much in tune with what I want to build these days so I build it once and leave it. If I want something else, I just tend to build a purpose built upper. But then that generally just leads to another complete rifle. :faint:

RMTactical

02-06-2012, 19:46

It's shorter than a 16". That is why I like it. Shortest you can go legally and have a quality flash hider.

Javelin

02-06-2012, 20:43

I really have little issues either way. I do like 14.5 as I do note a very small difference. But the main thing is that I do my own work so if I need to change things around I can do it. However in reality I am pretty much in tune with what I want to build these days so I build it once and leave it. If I want something else, I just tend to build a purpose built upper. But then that generally just leads to another complete rifle. :faint:

:agree:

My issue with my 14.5" is that it was an early Noveske upper and they were using the Vortex flash hiders pretty much exclusively and that is what it came with. I could really use a 51T mount on it and it would be perfect but a little late for that one. How it goes sometimes though!

:wavey:

boomhower

02-06-2012, 23:15

Well, it's shorter. I started with 16" to figure out what I like, now that's settled. I'm hoping to build my dream upper this summer:
14.5" middy w/ pinned battlecomp and a 13.8" Alpha rail. Hopefully by then barrels will be more plentiful

surf

02-06-2012, 23:26

Javelin, if you feeling frisky you can attempt to drill out the pin if you have a good idea of the depth you need to go without drilling through the barrel. If the weld does not go all the way down the pin, it may come out and the hider could spin off. Another method is to use a mill and mill out a section over the pin area increasing the depth with each pass. Again the pin may come out if the weld does not go all the way through. You should be able to get to a depth to get the pin out, maybe the final clean up of the pin with a drill. Another method is to cut the hider lengthwise in increasing depths and use a chisel to help separate the hider as you go. You can literally peel off the hider. Of course the last 2 methods will destroy the old hider.

Javelin

02-06-2012, 23:54

Javelin, if you feeling frisky you can attempt to drill out the pin if you have a good idea of the depth you need to go without drilling through the barrel. If the weld does not go all the way down the pin, it may come out and the hider could spin off. Another method is to use a mill and mill out a section over the pin area increasing the depth with each pass. Again the pin may come out if the weld does not go all the way through. You should be able to get to a depth to get the pin out, maybe the final clean up of the pin with a drill. Another method is to cut the hider lengthwise in increasing depths and use a chisel to help separate the hider as you go. You can literally peel off the hider. Of course the last 2 methods will destroy the old hider.

No kidding? Thanks for the info! I was thinking about calling Joel @ Noveske and seeing how much he would charge me to tap & mill it w/ a new mount. It is a great Vltor VIS upper w/ stainless barrel. Accurate as heck to boot and I baby the heck out of it. Though I might just leave well enough alone and keep it as is else sell it and buy another one w/ TRX rails. Might even come out even in the wash.