Where to stay in Tokyo

For a Japanese experience, try a ryokan, where the floors are covered in tatami mats, breakfasts consist of fish, rice, pickled vegetables, and miso soup - and, at the end of a hard day of sightseeing, you can soak in a communal bath before changing into your yukata (dressing gown), sliding shut your paper-screen door, and bedding down on a futon.

There are several to choose from in Asakusa. I stayed at Ryokan Shigetsu, on a quiet side street just steps from Senso Temple and a short walk from both subway lines. The place is immaculate and comfortable, and the English-speaking staff are friendly and helpful. Make sure to have at least one soak in the rooftop cedar bath, with its view of Senso-ji’s five-storey pagoda. (Ginza or Toei Asakusa line to Asakusa station, exit 1)

Rates: Doubles are $200/night; western-style rooms available for less (shigetsu.com/e/index.html)

If you prefer western-style comfort, there are hundreds of mid- to high-priced hotels to choose from. I stayed at the Hotel New Otani in Akasaka for several nights, a sprawling complex so massive - 40 (!) restaurants, cafes and bars - you’ll need a couple of days just to get your bearings. Aside from its central location, the New Otani’s main draw is its 400-year-old garden (also open to non-guests), complete with stone lanterns, carp ponds and a waterfall. And on a clear day, you can’t beat the view of Mount Fuji from the 40th-floor restaurant, which serves a breakfast buffet of both Japanese and western fare. (Ginza or Marunouchi line to Akasaka-mitsuke station, exit D)