Bonhomie

This restaurant is closed

Chef Philip Speer likes to describe his Central Austin restaurant as Waffle House-meets-French bistro. The description may sound like a silly head-scratcher at first, but one visit proves that the former culinary director at Uchi nailed the concept. While the stacks of white plates lining the open kitchen, globe light fixtures and red booths lining the restaurant speak to the diner idea, the dishes drive it home. The centerpiece rosti are basically creative takes on hash browns. The kitchen weaves strands of creamy Yukon Gold and sturdy russet potatoes into a lattice that is fried to a bronzed finish and topped with items like foie gras and cognac gravy, or smoked salmon and creme fraiche. Think “smothered and covered” as executed by an award-winning chef. The French side shines with a perfect Lyonnaise salad with tender octopus, hazelnuts and meaty lardon, and though the cheeseburger makes a slight concession to France with Dijonnaise, it would be the pride and joy of any diner (or Waffle House) in America.