OK I've had the wheel for a couple of hours now. Time to give my initail thoughts.What a piece of hardware. The feel. Everything about it is quality (but you already knew that) Setting up took about an hour and was pretty straight forward. You will need to used a fair bit of force to get the gear stick supports into the wheel. It helps to clamp the wheel to the table and turn it on it's side.I also fitted the H pattern shifter and then initialized it used the settings button and start button at the same time. If you don't do this it might not work as intended.The pedals look and feel fantastic. And everything works perfectly right out of the box with forza 3.My lap times were terrible though mainly because I am not used to playing with a shifter and clutch. BTW it seems the clutch works faster than the button for some reason. Maybe it's just my perception. I'll practice more and more and I'm sure it wont take long for my lap times to come down to where they were with the MS wheel (if not faster)The whole wheel feels real and makes the ms thing look and feel like a toy. I also love the right/left stick buttons that can be used to look left/right outside the car. Well, that's my initail thoughts. Back for more practice I have a comp coming up.

Last edited by crimson eagle73 on Tue May 31, 2011 10:37 am; edited 1 time in total

The whole wheel feels real and makes the ms thing look and feel like a toy. I also love the right/left stick buttons that can be used to look left/right outside the car. Well, that's my initail thoughts

Thats great news and I was hoping we'd be able to get side view. Its always been a real hold back for me not being able to tell if I had position going for a corner. That could make a big difference in a race situation.

The wheel is a really solid construction, excellent finish and rotation is smooth. The wheel rim is really nice to grip and the hand position is perfect. I fitted the clubsport paddle shifters and theres hardly a noise when you actuate them.

It gets even better when you look at the clubsport pedals.These mothers are built to do serious work, they would be right at home bolted into a real motor (actually - so would the wheel).The brake pedal has a very realistic feel to it and will accept heavy pressure (adjustable) that will translate into a sweet touch when pushing down hard in the braking zone.The accelerator is much lighter to use, as is the clutch. Both can be adjusted for stiffness.

The shifters are well finished, but I don't like the "clicking" action going into gear of the H pattern shifter, it may improve with some use. The sequential shift is much quieter.

Make sure you retune the cars. That makes a huge difference. Springs and ARB seem a lot more sensitive now on the GT2. For me anyway.The strong feedback and pedals need getting used to but I've had the gear for 24 hours now played probably 4-5 hours and my lap times are almost what I was getting with my other wheel. Maybe a second or two different. Wont be long before they are up there again.

crimson eagle73 wrote:Make sure you retune the cars. That makes a huge difference. Springs and ARB seem a lot more sensitive now on the GT2. For me anyway.The strong feedback and pedals need getting used to but I've had the gear for 24 hours now played probably 4-5 hours and my lap times are almost what I was getting with my other wheel. Maybe a second or two different. Wont be long before they are up there again.

Hi CE,

it looks like you're the fanatec test driver for now.

How hard have you got the feedback set on the wheel and in game?Did you change any in game feedback settings?How hard have you set the brake pedal pressure on the pedal adjustment knob?How are you finding the "H" pattern shifter?Any other hints on setup?

LOL You better get a better driver lol.Feedback is at 100 and vibration is at 100. Didn't feel the need to change it.In game setings are exactly the same as the ms wheel. On the cars though I changed the brake pressure from 120 to about 90 in the tune (was finding it a little too sensitive and I always ran high brake pressure with my tunes for the MS wheel)I have not touched the knob on the wheel. Probably won't until I get really good at pushing the cars around the track.H Pattern worked well. I like Going from 6th to 3rd gear in one change. Only issue was that I wasn't used to it and sometimes I went from 6th to 1st and damaged the engine. Somtimes I found myself bumping the 'change view' button by accident.I chnged it to the sequential shifter and that works perfectly so I've left that one on. I think the biggest thing is getting used to the clutch on the floor. I have one foot over it at all times and shift the right leg from accelerator to brake. I havn't even tried heel toe yet. Not until it is all second nature to me. lolHere are my on wheel settings.Sen 270FF 100Sho 100dri offABS 40Lin 0dEA 0SPr -3dPr -3

Makes it difficult when you have three loads of settings you can change.in Game general, on wheel general, in game car tune.Each of these can alter the way the car behaves ingame.For me, I left the in game settings on default, used those on wheel settings and played around with the tune. Seems to work for me.

Sen 540FF 66 .. found with a little less FF and more SHO u feel the raod a little better.. Sho 100dri offABS 100 i need to feel the brakes in the wheel also as my feet are still agusting to using pedal brakes and not controler trigger

i dont have these settings below on the tubo s wheelLin 0dEA 0SPr -3dPr -3

Dazz not sure about u but i have the pedal rummble set to full otherwise when u press the brake right down u dont know when abs is kicking in..

I love the h pattern shifter ( to loud though ) but find i can only drive it with B class and lower.. some A class cars are ok.. but usually from S and above i uve the paddles.. quicker shifts..

how to first connect, and how to change options, eg: shifter to paddles etc- is this changable on the go etc etc

how to change consoles the easy way too :-)

Stoner.. 1st up..

when u are going to use your wheel. . power up the xbox first then power up the wheel and connect with the xbox button.. from what cpu mitch told me.. if u power up the xbox using the wheels xbox button the wheel wont work correctly.

Also if u change from 540 to 900 degrees.. u need to power the wheel off and then back on and connect to xbox again.. and like wise from 900 to 540 ..

make sure your shifter and pedals are connected before turning on.. if the wheel is on and u connect devices it will not register.. and u will need to switch the wheel off and back on.. Same oif u change form the h pattern to the sequential shifter.. turn wheel off change shifter and turn on and connect ..

bit of a pain in the ass i know. but not to sure about the GT@ wheel maybe they fied that issue..

1 think i love compared to pretty much every wheel out there compared to the fanatec NO DEAD ZONE when u are driving straight or about to turn

Have heard the plug in mic is rubish when plugged into the wheel.. not to sure why but a few forums have all mentioned issues with the headset pluged into the wheel.. most advise getting the wireless head set..

Don: the abs is only that vibration thing on the brake. It has nothing at all to do with stopping the brakes locking up. The whole thing is to use it to give you a feeling just before the brakes lock so you have an indication you're braking too hard in-game. I don't think it's an assist like abs is in the game

been driving for a few hours, awesome wheel, i can see im driving in a straighter line already, already hitting a couple PB's easy enough, and thats left handed and stick on right for thumb n cast to hold for now

yeah figured out the turn on xbox console first, then turn on wheel, select X button, then calibrate H shifter its stuffs up the H pattern shifter, no 4th gear, or wont select at all that was my problem, fixed!

you need to calibrate the H shifter every time!sequential you dont calibrate and also have the paddles useable on the fly too, quite nice to use actually, prefered for the moment

if anyone figures how to kill the deadzone on tdu2, now thats be cool, was cruising around like the ai cars so easily, tho the clutch function was disabled in the game?cant remember my settings so far but the wheel hates it at first thats for sure

the ABS function is just a warning your about to/ are locking up, i set this at 80 for now seems ok

my thoughts are the FFB is a bit weak aint it? my ms one had more pull when it wouldnt stop pulling right when your going down a straight

gud 0l stoner wrote:my thoughts are the FFB is a bit weak aint it? my ms one had more pull when it wouldnt stop pulling right when your going down a straight

I had a first run last night, it was all a bit casual (wheel clamped to a chopping board)but enough to give me a taste - which is all I'll get for now.

The strength of FFB will depend on your ingame settings as well as the wheel.To start I set the GT2 at 100% FFB and left my ingame unchanged 80%.After about 5 minutes I dropped in game to 60% - but I prefer to have the FFB not so heavy.

Started off with GT2 ABS set at 80% and ended up raising it to 95%, that worked nicely for me. I have the CS brake pedal pressure set to minimum at the load cell and found that I still had to use a lot of pressure to force a lock up. imo thats good.

LOL, its gonna take some time to get used to the clutch pedal. My brains so wired for paddles and "A" button for clutch I was wrecking the gearbox in about 2 laps. That and ending up in the gravel from braking with my left foot, clutch again. Be warned pushing in the clutch doesn't slow you down anywhere near as quick as the brake.

I'll be putting in some time to test different FFB and other settings when I get the wheel set up properly.

crimson eagle73 wrote:When you guys switch the wheel on and it goes though it's initialization. Does your wheel stop slightly off centre? I wonder if that can be fixed or if it's worth bothering about.

I had the same and re-centered the wheel. It sorted the problem.

Wheel Center1. Bring the wheel into PC mode and turn it to itscenter position, then press and hold LSB Button andRSB Button at the same time.

2. Press Xbox Guide Button.

3. Release all three buttons.

Section 6.3 of the GT2 manual if anyone else wants to look it up. Thanks for the link to the manual Dazza.Guys it might be worth downloading the manual - if you haven't done it already.

[quote="iWolf]LOL, its gonna take some time to get used to the clutch pedal. My brains so wired for paddles and "A" button for clutch I was wrecking the gearbox in about 2 laps. That and ending up in the gravel from braking with my left foot, clutch again. Be warned pushing in the clutch doesn't slow you down anywhere near as quick as the brake.

.[/quote]

haha the amount of times ive done this lmao, so good having to many pedals

how are you guys finding the standard clamp?, seen plenty of reviews on these complainig they move to much, mine doent move at all, clamped on the side of a table, table moves before wheel thats for sure?

gud 0l stoner wrote:how are you guys finding the standard clamp?, seen plenty of reviews on these complainig they move to much, mine doent move at all, clamped on the side of a table, table moves before wheel thats for sure?

Hi stoner,

Even though I was using a really dodgey "test" setup the clamp still didn't slip in the hour or so I was using it. But I'll be bolting the wheel down in my permanent rig, eventually.

The clamp is ok. But the wheel moved when I changed shifters. How tight are the shifter support struts to get into the wheel.But I also will be bolting it to my rig. I need to borrow a few tools seeing my drill crapped itself and refuses to work.How long do we need to get the 6 mm bolts? I've got to go through 25mm of pint before the bolts hit the wheel.