CAPITALIZING ON MEN S VANITY:

Transkript

1 CAPITALIZING ON MEN S VANITY: A qualitative study of men s behavior when evaluating, buying and using men s grooming products. MASTER THESIS MSc Brand and Communication Management Copenhagen Business School 2014 Author: Pernille Burkhalter Supervisor: Jesper Clement Hand-in date: Number of pages: 83 (excluding appendices) Number of characters: (excluding appendices)

2 Abstract Grooming products especially designed and developed for men is a fast growing industry, however, little attention has been devoted to understanding the male consumer in regards to this product category. The purpose of this thesis was to investigate Norwegian men s consumer behavior when buying and using grooming products in order for the cosmetic industry to better capitalize this market. A review of the Norwegian grooming market and how it is currently being capitalized served as the starting point, and a conceptual framework was developed based on consumer behavior theory and contemporary studies in the field, creating a base for primary data collection. Methods of data collection included in-depth interviews with 7 Norwegian men, instore participant observation and follow-up interviews, in addition to interviews with in-store experts. The conceptual framework and the method for data collection chosen provided a good level of explanatory power and interesting themes emerged, namely: Involvement & Knowledge, Notions of Masculinity, Hairstyle and Identity, False loyalty, Avoidance of Feminine Behavior, Significant Females, and Importance of Quality. Making it possible to better understand men s consumer behavior when evaluating, purchasing and using men s grooming products and on the basis of this knowledge recommend how the industry can better capitalize the Norwegian grooming market for men. This report aimed at increasing knowledge and understanding in regards to men s consumer behavior when evaluating, buying and using grooming products, and the report can be used as a starting point for further research on this theme. Further research should test the framework created and quantify the results so that the external validity increases, providing greater opportunities for generalization and market segmentation. 2

5 Introduction, area of research and definitions 1 Introduction Men are experiencing an increased pressure from society on appearance and looking good at all times and products like anti-wrinkle and body lotion are no longer reserved women. In fact, there has been an overall trend in men devoting more time and energy on appearance, leading to a boom in sales for appearance related products and services, such as dietary supplements, gym memberships and personal grooming products (Sturrock & Pioch, 1998). As men are learning about their skin and grooming rituals, they are increasingly looking to buy male- specific products and the cosmetic industry has capitalized on this by developing a wide range of grooming products especially designed for men and their needs (Euromonitor, 2013). But what are really men s needs? And how do they behave when trying to find their way through the fast growing jungle of grooming products? Men s grooming products is one of the main drivers of growth in the cosmetic and personal care industry and in 2012 men's grooming increased by 7% making it worth US$34 billion globally (Euromonitor, 2013). Despite this, surprisingly not a lot of research has been devoted to men s behavior when purchasing grooming products. In fact, the male shopper has long been ignored in the area of research. There is now, however, widespread consensus that the traditional notion of men as producers and women as consumers is outdated (Sturrock and Pioch, 1998; Dholakia, 1999; Bakewell et al., 2006). Research that does address male consumption has typically focused on consumption of male items such as alcohol, cars and electronics, that serve to enhance one s masculinity rather than threaten it (Otnes & McGrath, 2001). This thesis sets out to address this topic by researching Norwegian men s behavior when purchasing men s grooming products. According to a report from Euromonitor, Norwegian men had the highest capita per man spent on grooming products on a global basis in 2009 (Euromonitor, 2009), and to the researchers knowledge qualitative studies on Norwegian men in regards to grooming purchase is nonexisting. The study is therefore significant in two ways. First, it focuses on men s grooming, an under-studied product category. Second, it applies a qualitative approach in order to 5

6 fully explore the decision-making process of the Norwegian male consumer. Understanding consumers purchase behavior and decision making process is critical in order to define appropriate marketing strategies, in-depth awareness of the male consumer will therefore help marketers to better capitalize the Norwegian grooming market for men. Due to the discussion above I therefore find it very interesting to research one of the main drivers of growth in the cosmetic and personal care industry: The Man. 2 Area of research Problem statement The problem statement that this thesis aims to answer is therefore as followed: What characterizes the consumer behavior of men when evaluating, purchasing and using men s grooming products? From these insights, how can the cosmetic industry better capitalize the grooming market for men? Focus and limitations Geographical focus I have decided to restrict my thesis to examining the Norwegian market and all primary data collection are therefore gathered from Norwegian men. The reason for this is that Norwegian is my mother language, and I argue that when both the researcher and the studied object can speak the language most natural to them, it will eliminate cultural and lingual barriers, providing higher reliability. Norwegian men are becoming increasingly aware and concerned with their appearance, resulting in increased grooming product purchases (Euromonitor, 2013). However, it is the author s knowledge that there exists no qualitative research on Norwegian men s consumer behavior in regards to grooming products, which makes them a very interesting geographical group to study. Product focus and limitations The primary purpose of this dissertation is to identify the key drivers of behavior within an entire product category and not a single product such as for example 6

7 shampoo. I have chosen to limit examination of the user's specific brand preferences for each product group, since this will be too comprehensive. However, some factors in regards to brands and brand loyalty will be discussed. The analysis and the conceptual behavior model is not tailored to a specific firm or brand, but as a general behavior model for men when buying grooming products, and therefore applicable for the whole Norwegian grooming industry. Definitions In order to make sure that the terminology used throughout the thesis is clear to the reader, and to make sure the reader knows what products the category grooming consists of and the different channels they are sold through, some definitions are necessary. Grooming and grooming products The general term grooming holds no clear definition and different sources has therefore been used to describe grooming in accordance to how the terminology is used throughout this thesis. The following definition or explanation of the terminology has therefore been developed: Personal grooming refers to the art of cleaning and maintaining parts of one's body, like hair and skin, in order to enhance a good-looking appearance 12. Grooming products are the products used to serve this purpose. However, this paper discusses grooming products for men, and the definition has therefore been adjusted accordingly: Men s grooming products refers to products especially designed for-, labeled and marketed to men, used in the art of cleaning and maintaining parts of one's body, like hair and skin, in order to enhance a good-looking appearance. Whenever the term men s grooming or grooming is used throughout the paper, I refer strictly to products especially designed for-, labeled and marketed to men. When 1 (Collins) 2 (Dictionary.com) 7

8 unisex grooming products, or grooming products for women are discussed, it will be stated explicitly. Men s grooming products Grooming products is a general term used for different products belonging to different product categories and the definition can vary from different sources. A clear definition on what products are being included under the term grooming products in this thesis is therefore illustrated below. FIGURE 1: Category explanation, Men s Grooming The illustration above is developed by the author, and the products included in the definition of men s grooming products are based on Euromonitors report on the Norwegian grooming market (Euromonitor, 2013). The reason why Euromonitors report was used as the definition is because the report is used throughout the thesis and their definition corresponds to what seem like the general perception when having read several reports and articles on the field. 8

9 However, one adjustment has been made as the author has decided to exclude razors. The reason for this is partly due to the comprehensiveness that already exists in the term grooming products, making some limitations necessary, and due to beliefs that this product category yields a very different behavior than the rest of the products under the term grooming products. I argue that razors is a product initially developed for men, providing little feminine associations, hence the barriers for buying such a product is much lower. Because razors are removed, I have also excluded other hair removal methods. Pre and post shave products on the other hand has been included due to this being skin care and newer products on the market. Perfume is included in many definitions of grooming, hence, not in the Euromonitor report. Perfume has not been included because I argue that perfume is a complex and comprehensive product category that generates different behavior than the rest of the category. Premium Brands versus Mass Brands Grooming products can be categorized further into sub-categories: premium- and mass products, and because these two terminologies will be used throughout the paper a definition is necessary. The products that make up the two categories can be found in Appendix 1. Even though the definition of premium vary between product categories, a general definition by Quelch (1987) can be used to understand the main prominence: Premium brands are typically of excellent quality. High priced, selectively distributed through the highest quality channels and advertised parsimoniously John A. Quelch, 1987 (Quelch, 1987) Whenever the term premium brand or premium grooming is used, grooming products with a higher price sold through higher quality distribution channels such as perfumeries and beauty salons are referred to, like for example Biotherm for men. On the contrary when referring to mass brands, the products typically has a lower price and are sold through supermarkets and pharmacies, like for example Nivea for men. Structure of thesis The first part of my thesis can be seen as twosome: firstly an overview of the Norwegian grooming industry for men will be reviewed, in order for the reader to get 9

10 an insight into the competitive landscape and the market trends. The industry outlook will also serve as an important guideline when answering the second part of the problem statement: how can the cosmetic industry better capitalize the grooming market for men? In order to understand how to optimize the market offerings and serve the segment better, we need a certain degree of knowledge on market trends and how the industry capitalizes today s market. Secondly literature in the field of consumer behavior with an emphasis on secondary data regarding men and consumer behavior when buying grooming products will be reviewed. These two parts creates a framework for further research and data gathering, moving me closer to answering the problem statement. The second part of the thesis consists of primary data collection, and arguments to why the chosen methods were used. Insights provided by analyzing the data collected will be discussed, presenting my findings which aims at answering the first part of the conclusion. Recommendations on how the industry can better capitalize the market will be presented under the headline Marketing Implications and aims at answering the second part of the problem statement. Finally, the quality of the report and suggestion on further research will be discussed and presented. 10

11 The structure of the report is also illustrated below: FIGURE 2: Structure of Thesis Introduction Area of research Market overview Litterature review Methodology Analysis Discussion Key findings Marketing implications Conclusion Limitations & Further research Industry outlook and Literature review 3 Industry outlook This chapter aims at giving the reader an overview of the grooming market for men in Norway, namely: market trends, Norwegian men s grooming habits, the key players and future prospects. Understanding the market and how it is currently being capitalized is important in order to understand the challenges the industry are facing and will face in the future, and make recommendations on what can be improved to 11

12 serve the segment better. In addition the tendencies in the Norwegian market for male grooming can help explain and enlighten, or contradict the literature reviewed, drawing a more accurate and nuanced picture and a conceptual framework for further study. The market Trends Norwegian men are becoming increasingly interested in personal grooming, which has led to an increase in value of male grooming products by 3% in 2012, rising to NOK 705 million. Especially Norwegian teenage boys are contributing to the increased market value, as they are progressively opting to purchase men s grooming products in order to look their best at all times. The country s leading beauty and personal care companies are capitalizing on this rising demand by offering a wider variety of men s grooming products under both premium brands and mass brands, many of which are tailored to younger Norwegian men. Much of the strong growth recorded in men s grooming towards the end of the review period can be attributed to the rising demand for men s pre-shave and men s post-shave, with men s hair care also prominent. More innovation was evident in the new product launches in all of these categories. Men s hair care recorded strong constant value growth of 4% in 2012, and premium men s hair care registered an increase of 8% in value sales during This increase can be attributed to the premiumisation trend, which is boosting the popularity of premium beauty and personal care products generally in Norway. Trends in men's grooming frequently mimic trends in the cosmetics and toiletries market as a whole, and a possible benefit of this is that the products which are currently being mimicked can be analyzed to give an indication of which direction the men's grooming sector is likely to take next. This is especially true of skin care products. The color of the packaging of men's grooming products is crucial for success in the Norwegian market. Most of the leading brands, like Nivea for Men and Gillette, stick to traditional male colors, such as blue and silver (Euromonitor, 2013). Natural products are a key trend in the wider beauty and personal care market, but on a global basis, men are less likely than women to purchase naturally positioned 12

13 cosmetics and toiletries. Nonetheless, there is a growing market for natural men's lines (Euromonitor, 2009). Competitive landscape Procter & Gamble Norge AB led men s grooming in 2012 with a 41% value share. Procter & Gamble s main best-selling men s grooming brand is Gillette, with all of the sub- brands offered under the Gillette umbrella brand accounting for 37% of total men s grooming value sales in Lilleborg ranked second in men s grooming in 2012 with a 10% value share. Other international cosmetics companies like Beiersdorf and L Oreal being prominent, continually launching new innovative products for men. Lilleborg s Sterilan for Men is the leading brand in men s deodorants in Norway, accounting for 15% of total retail value sales in Lilleborg s hair series Define Men remained the leading brand in men s hair care in Norway during 2012, with all of the brands offered under the Define umbrella accounting for a combined 38% of total men s hair care retail value sales during the year. The strongest increase in men s hair care in 2012 was registered by L Oréal Norge s El Vital for Men brand, which increased its value share from 15% in 2011 to 18% in Mass brands remain the most popular in men s toiletries, accounting for 77% of total retail value sales in 2012, but the popularity of premium men s toiletries continues to increase in Norway. Private label lines such as Änglamark, Boots No7 and First Price offer a variety of economical men s grooming products at very affordable prices, although private label accounted for only a very low proportion of total men s grooming products in Norway during 2012 (Euromonitor, Mens Grooming in Norway, 2013). Norwegian men s grooming habits According to Euromonitors report on men s grooming in Norway, a tidy and wellkept hairstyle is one of the most important aspects of personal grooming habits among Norwegian men. Both young and older Norwegian men dedicate a great deal of attention on the appearance of their hair as it represents their personality. A good hairstyle tends to signify a certain degree of confidence on Norwegian men in general. A survey conducted by Nivea among Norwegian men, showed that 57% of respondents were worried about wrinkles around the eyes, which shows that the trend 13

14 towards anti-aging products has the potential to be as strong for Norwegian men as it is for women (Euromonitor, 2013). This is coherent with both international trends but also the fact that the grooming market for men often mimic women s grooming trends, anti-age being the main driver of growth in women s cosmetics in Norway (Euromonitor, 2013). Forecast ( ) Looking towards the forecast period, it is considered very likely that leading beauty and personal care brands in Norway will continue to extend their product lines into men s grooming in order to capture the high levels of latent demand for beauty and personal care product among Norwegian s male consumers. Many Norwegian men are expected to focus more on their looks and this is set to motivate them to demand more sophisticated products in categories such as men s shaving, men s deodorants, men s toiletries, men s skin care and men s hair care. The leading companies in these categories are therefore expected to invest more in the marketing of their products with the aim of targeting Norwegian men more explicitly. The range of hybrid men s grooming products such as 2-in-1 shampoos and conditioners available in Norway is also expected to increase during the forecast period as these products are generally popular among men. The availability of mass men s grooming products is expected to increase during the forecast period, especially through grocery retailer s channels. Many grocery retail outlets in Norway offer a wide range of mass men s grooming products that target young adult consumers. New product formulations in men s deodorants, and men s hair care, specifically shampoos and styling products with attractive packaging are expected to boost demand on mass men s grooming products during the forecast period 3. The leading competitors in mass men s grooming are expected to invest more funds in offering a wider selection of men s skin care products for both young and mature Norwegian men during the forecast period. More skin care companies are now offering skin care creams for men with anti-aging ingredients and it is likely that the range of anti-ageing products in men s skin care will increase during the forecast period, under both premium brands and mass brands. Demand for premium men s grooming products is expected to increase at a faster rate than demand for mass men s grooming brands during the forecast period in response to the consumer demand patterns which are expected to emerge in men s grooming. 3 The forecast period is

15 4 Literature review In the previous chapter we have seen that the market for men s grooming in Norway is increasing and that Norwegian men only will become more sophisticated in their future product choices, resulting in increased product development in order to capture the latent demand. Understanding men s behavior when buying grooming products is therefore crucial in order to better capitalize this market. Due to lack of research in this field, the literature presented in this chapter is based on general consumer behavior theory as well as contemporary research on men s consumer behavior in general, and when buying grooming products. The ultimate goal of the chapter is to draw a nuanced picture of the male consumer in regards to the grooming category and create a framework for primary data collectionmoving closer to answering the problem statement. Consumer decision-making process So where do we start when trying to understand what drives men s consumer behavior in the grooming category? The reason why people do or do not purchase products can be linked to the consumer s decision-making process (Weber & Capitant de Villebonne, 2002; Kotler, Armstrong, Wong, & Saunders, 2008) and therefore provides a good starting point when trying to understand consumer behavior. The most common description of the consumer decision-making process starts with the consumer identifying an unmet need. They then go through a search process for information that will guide them in the decision process, how extensive this process is depends on the consumer s involvement with the product (Bruner & Promazal, 1988). The next step in the process is an examination of alternatives where the consumers compare the available options and information that has been gathered through the search process. As the consumer forms an intention to behave, choice becomes the next stage. It is here that the decision maker considers which of the alternatives is to be selected. In the final step in the model, sometimes referred to as post purchase behavior, the decision maker evaluates to what degree the purchase fulfilled the initial unmet need. This process is influenced by the consumer involvement with the product, as well as internal factors such as: motivation, attitude, perception and learning as well as 15

17 As most models, the consumer decision-making model, as illustrated above, synthesizes complex behavior into one framework. The issue in regards to this is that the real world, as we know, is much more complex, and the model shows a very static process were the external factors and the psychological factors influence the decision making process. It can therefore be worth to explicitly state that the psychological factors will also influence the external factors. For example, a man shopping for grooming products will have different attitudes in regards to the external factors, such as purchasing in a perfumery versus the supermarket. I will try to make this clear to the reader throughout the chapter, and a conceptual framework based on the following literature will be presented at the end of the chapter, trying to link the elements together. Product involvement How extensive the consumer s decision-making process is depends on the consumer s level of involvement with the product. When purchasing a high-involvement product, the consumer is more likely to take the time to thoroughly analyze a message in the process of establishing beliefs, forming attitudes, and developing behavioral intentions (Petty & Cacioppo, 1979; Kolyesnikova, Dodd, & Wilcox, 2009). When product involvement is low, the process becomes somewhat of a routine and both the search and evaluation of alternatives tend to be brief and automatic. Research has demonstrated that involvement with a product category is an important determinant of consumer purchasing behavior (Brodowski, 1998, Orth and Firbasova, 2003; Kolyesnikova, Dodd, & Wilcox, 2009), and most researchers agree that the level of involvement is associated with the level of personal relevance or importance of the product to the consumer (Hupfer and Gardner, 1971; Kolyesnikova, Dodd, & Wilcox, 2009). Previous research states that depending on levels of involvement, consumers differ significantly in regards to purchasing quantities (Lockshin et al., 1997), perceptions of services (Dodd and Gustafson, 1997), consumption (Goldsmith et al., 1998), as well as satisfaction, store and salesperson trust (Lockshin et al., 2001) (Kolyesnikova, Dodd, & Wilcox, 2009). There exists little research on men s involvement with the grooming category, but one report from Unilever shows that men s involvement with shampoo and body wash is 17

18 low, and that they often will use anything they find in the shower, e.g. the products their mom, girlfriends or wives buy (Franca, 2013). Based on the discussion above, men s degree of involvement with different grooming products will therefore be important in order to understand behavior. The grooming category exists of many products and products that serve different needs e.g. hygiene versus beautification, and a qualified assumption is therefore that different levels of involvement will be found within the category, and that decision-making will differ in regards to the different products. Motivation and Attitude Consumer motivation and attitudes are important attributes in explaining consumer behavior, and have with success been used to describe behavior in previous research on men and consumption of grooming products (Souiden & Diagne, 2009; Sukato & Elsey, 2009). Motivation is the driving force within humans that cause us to take action in order to satisfy our needs (Kanuk & Schiffman, 2010). Establishing what motivates men to use different grooming products is therefore crucial in order to understand drivers of behavior. Goals are the sought after results of motivated behavior, and the specific goal a man holds depends on his experience, capacity, culture, norms and values, in addition to the goals accessibility in the physical and social environment (Kanuk & Schiffman, 2010). To get at the heart of what is driving consumers behavior, attitude research is often used as it is empirically proved that attitudes contribute to predicting future behavioral intentions (Ajzen, 1991). Researchers in social psychology have extensively referenced Fishbein and Ajzen s model theory of reasoned action to predict and understand attitudes influences on behavior. In short, the model suggests that intensions to behave are a function of relevant information or beliefs about the likelihood that performing a particular behavior will lead to a specific outcome. These beliefs are divided into two conceptually distinct groups: behavioral and normative. The behavioral beliefs are argued to be the underlying influence on an individual s attitude towards performing the behavior. Hence, information or beliefs affect intentions and then behavior, either through attitudes and/or subjective norms. The subjective norm account for the effects of what we believe other people think we 18

19 should do (Ajzen, 1991; Madden, Ellen, & Ajzen, 1992; Solomon, Bamossy, Askegaard, & Hogg, 2006). Previous attitude research in regards to men and grooming products claim that men appear increasingly aware of the importance of appearance, but being concerned with gender issue they have a negative attitude towards appearing overly feminine in their behavior (McNeill & Douglas, 2011). This suggest that if a man believe that for example his friends perceive using grooming products as feminine, purchase might stall. This example shows why looking into the subjective norm and the degree to which men take other s anticipated reaction into account when evaluating a purchase can be of importance when explaining behavior. The influence of the subjective norm will be discussed further on page 29, external socio-cultural influence. Ajzen has proposed an extension of the theory of reasoned action by including perceptions of behavioral control as an additional predictor of intentions and behavior, this variable strengthen the explanatory power in cases were the consumer experience a conflict between intention and execution of the actual behavior - due to lack of skill or ressources (Ajzen, 1991; Madden, Ellen, & Ajzen, 1992). The lack of skills or knowledge within the grooming category is also a highly likely factor in regards to men and grooming products and perception of behavioral control can therefore strenghten the explanation of behavior. Other researchers has also pointed out the importance of product knowledge in regards to consumer purchasing decisions, especially when there is a perceived risk associated with purchasing (Spawton, 1991). Product knowledge has been defined as the extent of experiences and familiarity that one has with a product (Alba, 1983; Brucks, 1985). Euromonitor reports that the men s skin care category has grown due to increased learning about their skin, which has caused many to look for malespecific products (Euromonitor, 2013). But even though we can assume that there has been an increase in skills and knowledge in regards to grooming, historical absence in the category and high degree of product innovations in the last years could imply that the perceptions of behavioral control will influence the decision making process and by including it to the conceptual framework the explanatory power is strengthened. Previous studies on men s attitudes and motivation towards buying grooming products found that while women often are motivated by transformation or 19

20 beautifying themselves through grooming, men need a functional justification to eliminate overly feminine associations (McNeill & Douglas, 2011). That is something that puts guys off from using skincare; they re scared of being seen as wussy or gay. If you ve got problem skin then they can justify having a special face wash and I think guys rationalize it (Brand Manager, Men s Products, International Cosmetics Firm) (McNeill & Douglas, 2011). In order to protect their masculine identities, they therefore claim to view their grooming products as practical solutions to specific needs, rather than providers of beautification. The functional justification of usage may therefore represent one way in which males can consume grooming products whilst maintaining their sense of masculinity, and subsequently avoid sex-role conflict. These examples show how men avoid cognitive dissonance by justifying their grooming use to be functional rather than self-indulging. Cognitive dissonance occurs when a consumer holds conflicting thoughts about a belief or an attitude object (Kanuk & Schiffman, 2010). Sturrock & Pioch (1998) on the other hand found in their study that men do concern about their appearance and that behavior is motivated by excitement, pleasure and concerns about the effects of ageing and the maintenance of a youthful appearance. The importance of remaining attractive to the opposite sex was also identified as an individual stimulus for the consumption of personal grooming products. Men s grooming is becoming increasingly more acceptable, thus, men feel they can access male products more successfully and accepting and enjoying the pleasures of consumption, traditionally identified as a female role (Sturrock & Pioch, 1998). Previous studies in regards to motivation and attitude towards men s cosmetics, found that Canadian men s main motivation for purchasing cosmetics is the desire to increase self-image, be physically attractive and convey a youthful appearance, while for French being physically attractive was the main motivational factor (Souiden & Diagne, 2009). Previous research on men s motivation to buy grooming products are contradicting, and research by Souiden et al. (2009) shows that there are cultural differences in regards to this matter, this highlights the importance of exploring underlying motivation as a driver of behavior, and thereby it s importance to the conceptual framework for data collection on Norwegian men. 20

21 Perception The consumer decision-making model as illustrated on page 16, shows an emotional as well as rational decision-making process were the consumer takes many elements into account when making a decision on whether to buy or not. However, in reality consumers seldom makes fully informed decisions, as the human brain cannot process all the stimuli being exposed to. The brain therefore cognitively selects which parts of the environments to perceive and process (Kanuk & Schiffman, 2010). Research by Alvarez and Franconeri (2007) suggest that when consumers move around in-store the cognitive capacity is limited to a few objects and thereby reduces the capacity to explore several of the products on the shelves (Alvarez & Franconeri, 2007; Clement et al ) this will be discussed further under the paragraph In-store behavior. There are to the authors knowledge no studies explicitly addressing perceptions in regards to men s grooming purchases, however, perception affects the whole decision making process and it is therefore being discussed both implicitly as well as explicitly throughout the literature review. Men s perceptions in regards to grooming purchase is important for marketers to understand because reality is a subjective term, and understanding how men perceive grooming products and grooming purchases can help understand their buying behavior. Personality, self image and self esteem In recent years consumer researchers have increasingly focused on the male consumer and how consumption of products contribute to the production of a desired identity, self-image and the construction of the self-concept (Sturrock & Pioch, 1998) Consumption of products and services contributes to the definition of self, and personality and self-image therefore serves as an important psychological influence on decision-making (Sturrock & Pioch, 1998). It is evident that products and brands help place consumers in a social role, which helps to answer the question who am I now? People use individual s consumption behavior to help them make judgments about that person s identity and consumption has become the means through which individuals define their self-image for themselves and others (Solomon, Bamossy, Askegaard, & Hogg, 2006, s. 212; Firat et al., 1995, p. 42; Sturrock & Pioch, Making himself attractive, 1998). 21

22 Some argue that appearance and narcissism have become major attributes of the 21 st century-consumer, who is actively in pursuit of his sense of self, men being no exception (Craik, 1994; Firat,1993; Cheng, Ooi, & Ting, 2010). Featherstone (1991) reported that one of the main stimuli for the consumption of male grooming products is the creation, development and maintenance of a self-image. The use of such particular products is dependent on the image that a man wishes to present (Souiden & Diagne, 2009). This indicated that the more concerned with a positive self-image, in regards to appearance, the more grooming products helping them to reach the desired goal will be consumed. Featherstone also (1993) implies that the tendency towards narcissism and self-image is most notable in the professional-managerial class, who has the money to engage in lifestyle activities and the creation of a desired façade. Another interesting notion he points out is that today s popular heroes amongst men are no longer the mighty, the builders of empires, the inventors and achievers, it is celebrities, movie stars and singers, beautiful people (Featherstone, 1993; Sturrock & Pioch, 1998) Euromonitor found that a tidy and well-kept hairstyle is one of the most important aspects of personal grooming habits among Norwegian men and a great deal of attention is dedicated on the appearance of their hair as it represents their personality. Because most grooming products on today s market serve the purpose of enhancing an attractive appearance, Norwegian men s attitude towards their appearance and selfimage is important in order to better explain behavioral drivers when buying grooming products. External influence As explained initially, the consumer decision-making is in addition to being influenced by inner psychological factors, influenced by the information and stimuli provided by the environment in which the consumer engages. These external factors can be divided into firms marketing efforts, such as the actual product; it s price, sales channel and advertising, as well as influence from friends, family, society and culture. Product, packaging and design According to Masten 1988 (Masten, 1988; Clement 2007) Packaging design has to communicate the products' attributes and the overall impression must be presented through design elements such as illustration, colour, typography and shape. In 22

23 addition it is important that there must be key differences from female products in order for them to appeal to men (Euromonitor, 2009) Taking a look at the products offered on the Norwegian market today, there is evident that the male products are being differentiated from the female products by for instance scent and packaging design. The color of the packaging of men's grooming products is crucial for success in the Norwegian market, and according to Euromonitor, attractive packaging will be one of the growth drivers for future products (Euromonitor, Mens Grooming in Norway, 2013) Understanding men s preferences in regards to package design and the underlying motives for choosing one product over another is therefore important in order to succeed in the market. But what do men prefer in regards to product packaging and design? A study conducted on young New Zealand men, found that brands devoted entirely to male products were preferred over brands with both female and male lines, given the feminine associations some brands portray. For Men labeling was important in creating a distinction between what was viewed as an acceptable or unacceptable product, regardless of what the product s use was, so that the men would be absolutely sure that the product was for them (McNeill & Douglas, 2011). The study further found that black, blue and grey were perceived as favorable colors on grooming packages, whilst pink, white and surprisingly green served to generate feminine associations, creating concerns over a product s suitability. Black and blue are popular colors for male grooming products, as they are generally regarded as masculine colors. A study conducted on British men found that nine out of ten men associate the colors navy and black with masculinity (Andrew McDougall 2011). In addition McNeill found that the right color on the product was even more important than the For Men labeling (McNeill & Douglas, 2011). Even though these preferred colors like black, blue and grey all can be argued to have a masculine sense, there is symbolic difference between the colors and brands like Lynx/Axe 4 and Nivea use respectively blue and black on their packaging as part of a targeting strategy. Lynx/Axe and Nivea both target appearance-conscious men, but the difference in packaging reflects the different groups they aim to reach. As an upbeat product range 4 Lynx: British brand name. Axe: International brand name 23

24 for young men, Lynx/Axe use color men might associate with motorbikes or mobile phones. Black does not reflect cleanliness or freshness, which could be seen as important attributes in the toiletries market, but it has come to stand for sexiness, especially for males (Evans, Jamal, & Foxall, 2009). The Nivea approach is much more subtle and the product communicate male cleanliness rather than manliness. Reassuring and water related colors are used throughout the range for example white for calming products, aqua for cleansing and stronger blue for refreshing; Nivea is thereby targeting a different segment, selling on practical product benefits (Evans, Jamal, & Foxall, 2009, s. 76). Salzman et al. (2005) found in their study on The Future of Men that grooming manufacturers targeting men may benefit from keeping product names short and to the point, due to men wanting their grooming choices to be seen as utilitarian rather than self-indulgent (Salzman, Matathia, & O'Reilly, 2005). Clement (2007) concludes in his article on the visual influence of packaging design that according to the theory of flow, (Csikszentmihalyi and Csikszentmihalyi 1988) and perception of fluency (Reber, Schwarz and Winkielman 2004) there seems to be a claim that consumers will find objects attractive if they are easy to perceive and understand (Clement, Visual influence on in-store buying decisions : an eye-track experiment on the visual influence of packaging design, 2007) and because men do not have the same history of grooming usage as women, this could further serve as a strong argument for keeping labeling easily understandable. It is evident that package design and labeling are important influencers on men s grooming choices and understanding Norwegian men s preferences in regards to packaging and labeling is therefore important in order to better capitalize the market. Product attributes and function Barson found in her study on the US grooming market that scent, followed by product quality, is the two main attributes men look for in the fragrances and aftershaves they use (Barson, 2004). A Euromonitor report on men s global grooming, shows that many men are happy to use unisex shampoo or unisex shower gel, but fewer are willing to use unisex deodorant, as their fragrances are often too feminine (Euromonitor, 2013). There exists little research on men s preference in regards to the scent of grooming products; however, referring to the products on the market today, 24

25 there seems to be a consensus amongst the industry that masculine scents are important in order to differentiate the men s grooming from women s products. Single products that serve two purposes, such as shower gel and shampoo in one product, is very popular amongst Norwegian men, and Lilleborg s Sterilan Men 2 in 1 Body & Hair is one of the best selling products on the market for men s grooming (Euromonitor). Industry experts often argue that men wants to save time and prefer their products to serve more than one function in order to do so. McNeill et al found in their study that males clearly see owning multiple grooming products as classically feminine behavior and thus seek to avoid accusations of femininity by applying unspoken judgment around the number of items owned (McNeill & Douglas, 2011). Whether buying 2 in 1 products is motivated by efficiency or driven by negative attitude against the feminine behavior associated with owning multiple products, is interesting for further data collection. There is limited research on Norwegian men s needs and wants in regards to product attributes and function however marketing managers are concerned with developing the right products that satisfies customers needs and wants, and establishing these parameters is therefore crucial in order to develop the right products. Product attributes and function will therefore be an important measure for primary data collection. Promotion Due to the increased offers of male grooming, thereby, increased rivalry in the market, more promotion of grooming directed towards men is evident on both a global as well as a local basis. Several authors consider advertising to be one of the primary factors in the exponential increase in men's consumption of personal care products (Diagne & Souiden, 2009; McNeill & Douglas, 2011; Sturrock & Pioch, 1998). The increased ranges of men s magazines have made it possible to expose men through advertising specifically targeted to the male gender. It has given businesses the opportunity to convey their message and influence the man to use personal care products (Sturrock & Pioch, 1998). The media also plays an important role in overcoming barriers to use of men's grooming by creating role models in terms of lifestyle, appearance and buying habits (Euromonitor, 2009). 25

26 Statistics from Yankelovich Think Tank showed that 63% of US men feel that the way men are portrayed in advertising is completely out of touch with how men really are (Yankelovich, 2008; Dove, 2011) This could in part be explained by the rise of the metrosexual man in the late 90 s. The word metrosexual is derived from metropolitian and hetrosexual and refers to a man being in touch with his feminine side and showing it through consumption of product categories historically being dominated by women, such as fashion and grooming. Many believe that the metrosexual man was a creation of the media, and in 2006 the menaissance was sounded. The shift from the man being portrayed as well groomed to being more rugged and rediscovering the man, man, The men who fall between these two poles have been given little attention, and many men feel that marketers have gotten it wrong, not recognizing that there are many nuances among men today. Men are not so easily characterized, and their variations require a keener focus among marketers (Dove, 2011; Yankelovich, 2008). Dove found in their research on the American market, that their competitors were presenting an impossible ideal that men thought was funny and entertaining but did not relate to at all. No grooming brand was reaching out to real men, especially those in their early thirties, first time fathers, who had reached a stage in their life where they are comfortable with whom they are (Dove, 2011). Due to the rise of men s grooming products the competition will intensify and using promotional and communicational tools in the right way can be crucial for success in this segment, hence, important for data collection. Price There exists little research on the price element in regards to men and grooming. However, general research on men in regards to price shows that men feel that, even with little expertise, they know what is the best value for their money (Yankelovich, 2008) and that almost one third of male shoppers are associated with the price/value conscious- seeking traits and men adopt money styles that focus on saving money rather spending it (Prince 1993). The emphasis on saving money is not surprising since bargain shopping has been identified by past researchers as a way for them to win or gain a sense of achievement while shopping (Otnes & McGrath, 2001). This sense of achievement seems to most often characterize their relationship with shopping, rather than the desire to engage in satisfying behavior, hence, earlier 26

27 arguments about men being utilitarian shoppers rather than hedonic (Zayer & Neier, 2011) A study of younger British men found that the financial crisis and thus a deterioration of private economy caused many men to conserve the purchase of personal care products. These men were therefore influenced by free samples and willing to switch to alternative products, if they got a good offer. The study also found that many men are disloyal and price sensitive for the purchase of personal care products (McDougall, 2011). Further the article states that men prefer buying grooming products in supermarkets along with their daily grocery shopping. This is due to private economy being a key determinant of one's purchasing decision, in addition to supermarkets being a easy and fast channel for men to buy personal grooming. However, in Norway Euromonitor found a tendency towards increased popularity of premium products and that private label lines such as Änglamark, Boots No7 and First Price who offer a variety of economical men s grooming products, counted for a very low proportion of total men s grooming products in Norway during 2012 (Euromonitor). The previous discussion points in two different directions. Previous research on men and price show that they tend to be price conscious, looking for a good bargain and market research show that UK men have become more price conscious, in regards to grooming, after the financial crisis. However, the Norwegian market is experiencing a tendency that men are moving towards buying more premium brands, and very affordable private labels only having a small share of the market, making price an important measure in order for companies to optimize pricing strategies on grooming products. Place When purchasing cosmetics, the decision making process of the male customer is influenced by multiple situational factors such as the store environment, the type of distribution, the purchase location, and knowledgeable salespersons (Souiden & Diagne, 2009, s. 101) Souiden et al. found in their study that the purchase situation, the when where and how, has a significant impact on men s purchase of cosmetics. The different sales channels for grooming products are typically supermarkets, specialists, pharmacies and online distribution channels (Euromonitor, 2009). These different channels all have different brands/products, price, product range and service level as well as location, and will therefore influence the consumer 27

28 behavior and decision making process. Over half of all men's grooming products globally are sold through grocery outlets. Reports from Euromonitor shows that Supermarkets alone accounted for 42% of all men's grooming sales worldwide in Reflecting the importance of mass brands in men's grooming, and their gradual incorporation into everyday shopping habits. Pharmacies/drugstores account for only 13% of sales, which can be explained by the fact that men typically do not like going out of their way to buy grooming products. Globally, the Internet still accounts for only around 1% of total men's grooming sales but it is on the rise, as the number of Internet users are growing. A study from Virke (2013) shows that Norwegian men spent more money on online shopping than Norwegian women 5 in 2013, however, not on grooming products (Virke, 2013). This still highlights the importance of Internet as a distribution channel for men s shopping in the future and the Internet as an important marketing tool in educating male consumers about products. Souiden & Diagne (2009) found in their study on French and Canadian men, that French men prefer to buy grooming products in specialty stores such as perfumeries, while Canadian men preferred supermarkets. Besides the cultural differences this is explained by the fact that French men are in a more mature stage in regards to buying grooming products than Canadians (Souiden & Diagne, 2009). Which stage Norwegian men are in, in regards to grooming can therefore be an important indicator of behavior, and will therefore be included in the primary data collection. Grooming products sold in supermarkets and online were perceived as more convenient and affordable (Souiden & Diagne, 2009). While in perfumeries it can be assumed that higher quality products and qualified personnel will be of important factors (Souiden & Diagne, 2009). Previous studies on the male shopper states that men do not ask questions or for help when in store and they move faster through the store aisles. In many settings it can be hard to make them look at anything they had not intended to buy. If he does not find what he is looking for, he will search the store once or twice, and then leave, without asking for help (Kotler & Keller, Marketing Management, 2009). Barsons (2004) argues that since men typically will not spend a long time making up their minds, marketers need to simplify the buying process. Men usually are not willing to spend a lot of time reading labels or directions to find out if a particular product works for 5 See appendix 3 for illustration 28

29 them. While sales associates are still necessary to guide men in their decision-making, remember to keep it simple when dealing with them (Barson, 2004). This further strengthens the earlier comment on keeping labeling easy, but also indicates that stores can benefit from sales personnel communicating differently with men than with women. Based on the previous discussion the place and purchase situation, attitudes and perceptions against service level, convenience and store atmosphere will be important indicators of behavior and important for developing strategies that can serve the male segment better, and it will therefore be included in the conceptual framework for data collection. Socio-cultural influence Even though the perceived cultural pressure and expectations on women s attractiveness is greater for women than men, (Burton, Netemeyer, & Lichtenstein, 1995), men today feel an increased pressure from society on looking good, and media plays a powerful role in reflecting, reinforcing and shaping society s expectations of today s males (Patterson and Elliott, 2002; Gray, 2004). Many men meet the weight of such expectations by increasingly purchasing grooming products, in addition to other appearance related products like dietary and slimming (McNeill & Douglas, 2011). Norwegian men being no exception and Euomonitors reports that Norwegian men are under a lot of pressure to look their best at all times, especially younger men (Euromonitor 2013). Souiden et al. (2009) on the other hand, found in their study on French and Canadian men that societal beliefs about looking good and consumers cultural setting did not play a significant role in stimulating or hindering the purchase of cosmetics. Canadian and French males did not perceive their consumption or non-consumption of cosmetics being influenced by their cultural setting and beliefs (Souiden & Diagne, 2009), but rather their own concerns about their appearance. To support purchasing decisions men do not rely so much on social networks and interpersonal affiliations to gain knowledge, but are portrayed more as lonely hunters. In contrast to women who learn through others, men prefer to learn through reading about products, and may only seek additional input if they feel especially unqualified 29

30 to decide: and in this case men prefer objective or published material, and are not as comfortable with personal interaction in making purchasing decisions (Ogden-Barnes, 2011). This is very interesting as WOM and recommendations from other women is a great influence on Norwegian women s purchase of toiletries and cosmetic products (Wessel, Grimsrud, & Ore, 2013), and creates a challenge for marketers in how to get men to talk to other men about grooming products. However, studies in regards to grooming show that men are strongly influenced by significant females like their mothers, wives or girlfriends. Products that they would not consider buying themselves are often bought and used on a regular basis, due to the influence of these women. In fact it is often girlfriends or wives, who buy these men s first grooming products, and often introduce men to more sophisticated grooming products (Candelino, 2012; Holmes, 2012; McNeill & Douglas, 2011). Not only do significant women influence what products or brands men buy, but they can also be an important motivation for staying groomed and smelling nice because they know women in today s society have increased expectations and they want to please them (McNeill & Douglas, 2011). Male friends on the other hand are considered an influencer at an early stage of the grooming product consumption, and the more mature men get the more confident they become in their choices of grooming products (McNeill & Douglas, 2011). Dove found in their research that once men become fathers they become more aware of what they want, they are more confident in their choices and do not live by other people s standards to the same degree (Dove, 2011). The report from Euromonitor claims that younger Norwegian men feel an increased pressure from society on looking good, but mentions nothing about more mature males. In regards to this, Dove s research on men becoming more confident, not living by other peoples standards when becoming fathers (Dove, 2011) is interesting, and will be important for further research. There is lack of research in regards to how the subjective norm influence Norwegian men s grooming purchases, and external influence is therefore of great relevance for further data collection. Consumers as tribe members The perspective on consumer behavior presented above is based on traditional notions about the single consumer knowing what he needs, wants and desires. However, 30

31 contemporary consumer behavior research focuses on consumption as a way for consumers to get recognition from other members of their group or tribe and consumption is therefore not based on what the consumer wants, but rather on what he does not want (Østergaard & Jantzen). For a researcher to understand why consumption takes place, he should according to Østergaard and Jantzen not study the individual consumer, but rather the relations between consumers and how consumption and products creates a metaphysical universe were consumers search for the right symbols in order to be recognized by other members of the same tribe. Consumption is therefore not motivated by deep psychological motives like those described initially, but guided by symbolism and the urge to belong (Østergaard & Jantzen). To the authors knowledge there exists no consumption studies on men s grooming purchase, and observing consumers interacting in regards to grooming can be difficult for this thesis. However, I think it is interesting to keep in mind that there is a shifting perspective in consumer behavior, and be aware during data collection that grooming consumption might not be motivated by the single mans needs and wants, but rather be guided by belonging to a tribe. Conceptual framework After having reviewed theory on consumer behavior and contemporary studies on men s consumer behavior in general and when purchase grooming products, we have learned that there are several numbers of variables that might influence their decision making process. Such as level of involvement and psychological factors as well as external factors such as marketing efforts and socio cultural influence. Founded on these variables the conceptual model as shown below has been developed by the author. The model is based on the decision- making model initially illustrated, but with some adjustments to better fit the consumer-decision making of men when purchasing grooming products, based on the literature reviewed. The conceptual model creates a framework for data gathering, aiming at measuring the right variables in order to explain men s consumer behavior when buying grooming products. Understanding consumer perspectives is essential for seeing potentials in the market and developing successful products and brand positioning. An in-depth awareness of the consumer currently purchasing men s grooming will be able to help marketers to reach their target markets more effectively, see new market opportunities and develop 31

32 strategies to ensure that the consumer s needs are met. Very few adjustments has been made to this model, as it builds on the previously shown model on page 15, by Kanuk and Schiffman. However, involvement, the significant women and tribe member has been added as influencers and the model explicitly tries to show that psychological fields influences both the input stage as well as the output stage, aiming at explaining decision making as a more dynamic and interconnecting process. Figure 4: Conceptual Framework, Consumer Decision-Making Process 6 6 Developed by author based on Figure 3 on page 16 and the litterature reviewed 32

33 Methodology, Data Collection and Analysis 5 Methodology This chapter aims at explaining the different methods used in order to collect primary data and argue why the methods chosen are the most suitable for this thesis purpose and its problem statement. This chapter is also meant to clearly show the reader the different stages of and decisions made in the data collection process, in order to provide a transparent research paper aiming at high quality. Research approach The main focus of this research is to contribute with new theory as well as confirming and refining the conceptual framework presented, by conducting an interpretive study of men s consumer behavior when buying grooming products. Interpretivism avoids the rigidities of positivism, which tries to explain casual relationships by means of statistical analysis. Interpretivism uses a more personal process in order to understand reality (Carson, Gilmore, Perry, & Gronhaug, 2001). A balance of inductive and deductive approach has been used, which according to Carson et al. is the most appropriate method for interpretive studies (Carson, Gilmore, Perry, & Gronhaug, 2001). The literature reviewed created a framework- and will automatically create some degree of bias prior to the data collection, making the study partly deductive. Inductive reasoning, in contrast, means that I as a researcher propose an investigation from which theories and findings will emerge. In this case, even though I as a researcher is somewhat biased by the theory presented, the primary data collection strives for a bottom up approach where the data collected will guide the theory building by making specific observations and measures in which patterns and regularities can be detected, to finally end up developing broader generalizations and theories and to build on the framework presented in the previous chapter (Research Method Knowledge Base, 2006) 33

34 Methods of data collection Interpretive methods are mainly qualitative, in addition the nature of the problem can be argued to be a somewhat sensitive topic, requiring probing and laddering techniques in order to get underneath the surface of men s attitudes and feelings. In addition I argue that due to lack of research on Norwegian men s grooming purchase, performing a qualitative study is necessary in order to build a more accurate conceptual framework and develop hypothesis for further quantitative research. In depth interviews will serve as the first part of my data gathering due to its property of getting inside people s heads and obtain rich and detailed data. In depth interviews have some limitations due to a lot of behavior being unconscious or hard to recall. Therefore, in order to study men s behavior and their interaction with the store environment, in store observation (Ethnography) and follow up questions will be conducted. Grasping men s behavior at the point of purchase, were decisions are made, and interview them while the decision-making process is fresh in mind can provide richer data with higher validity. Due to lack of research on this matter, I believe my in store observations are of high relevance to the industry, and to the field of literature. In depth interviews Whatever an interview s form, its purpose is to get inside someone s head and enter into their perspective (Patton 1990) Interviews are particularly suited for studying people s understanding of the meanings in their lived world, describing their experiences and self-understanding, and clarifying and elaborating their own perspectives (Kvale, 2007, s. 46). Focus groups were excluded due to concerns about group conformity given the somewhat sensitive research topic, and the researcher s lack of moderator skills to prevent it. In order to prepare, conduct and report the interviews, Kvale s seven stages of an interview inquiry has been followed: Thematizing, Designing, Interviewing, Transcribing, Analyzing, Verifying and Reporting. 34

35 Thematizing and Designing Before designing the study, a clear purpose of the investigation and the concept of the theme being investigated was formulated, the why, what and how of the study 7. This involved developing a conceptual and theoretical understanding like presented in the previous chapter, in order to establish the base to which new knowledge will be added and integrated and then how to obtain the data wanted to answer the problem statement (Kvale, 2007, s. 39). Designing an interview study involves planning the procedures and techniques, the how of the study (Flick, 2007a) (Kvale, 2007). The interview guide is semi structured, and aim at gathering insights that will contribute in the field of research on men s consumer behavior when buying grooming products. The questions derive from the conceptual framework and interesting gaps or phenomenons discovered in the literature in order to obtain the right data. However, the interviewer optimally seeks to make the participant speak openly about his thoughts and feeling and express how he experience buying and using grooming products. This is also important in order to discover new and interesting perspectives. A study by Smith et al. (2008) found that the measurement of past behavior is a valid predictor of future behavior (Smith, 2008) and Norum (1995) found that much can be learned by analyzing consumer satisfaction in light of previous purchase experiences with a particular product category (Belleau, Summers, & Torres, 2001). The interview objects will therefore be asked to bring all the grooming products that they currently use, which hopefully will provide both a good starting point for discussion and also be able to predict future behavior by looking into current and past behavior. Psychological factors like motivation and attitude can often be difficult to express and sometimes even unconscious. In order to get underneath the surface of the psychological factors affecting men s behavior, probing and laddering techniques will be used during the interviews. 7 The complete Thematizing schema can be found as an appendix 4 35

36 Sampling The interviewees were identified through friends and acquaintances, and some requirements like: usage, relationship status and family situation were determined. Usage of grooming products was required in order to answer the problem statement, this was however not quantified, merely requested to be some level of usage. Due to previous research stating that after men become fathers they also become more confident in their grooming choices, recruiting fathers was interesting in regards to this. Significant women like mothers, girlfriends and wives are also known for influencing men s grooming purchases, and in reference to girlfriends/wife s, interviewing some men in relationships was desirable. The interviews were conducted until reaching theoretical saturation, which occurs when additional informants do not add to unveiling new directions but merely verify what has been already stated by previous informants (Glaser & Strauss, 1967). Interviewing A total of 8 Norwegian men between the age of 24 and 39 were interviewed between May 5th and May 15th 2014, in the participant s homes or at Copenhagen Business School. The interviews started with me introducing myself, then asking the question what is the first thing that comes into mind when I say grooming products for men? This question was meant as a warm up question, to get the men into the subject we were about to discuss. Due to the men having been asked to bring along all the grooming products they used, they were already aware of the subject being discussed, however, a brief introduction about my purpose was given. All the participants were also noted about being recorded, but anonymous in the research paper. After listening to the recording of the first interview I found my questions to be too leading, and concerns about low validity, caused me to reformulate my questions in the next interviews and the first interview therefore served as a test and the seven remaining interviews were used. Figure 5 on page 41, shows a more detailed overview of the participants. The interviews lasted between 46 and 68 minutes and were all recorded in order to make accurate transcriptions possible, making sure no details were left out when 36

37 analyzing. The complete recordings and interview transcript can be found on the memory stick in Appendix 5. It was evident that the men felt somewhat uncomfortable talking about their grooming usage, and especially in the beginning of the interview, probing the questions was therefore necessary in order to get underneath the surface. The probing technique used was also that of described by Kvale (2007) were the interviewer pursue interesting answers by probing the content without stating what dimensions are being taken into account: Could you say something more about that? Can you give a more detailed description of what happened? ; Do you have further examples of this? (Kvale, 2007). After having been in the room with me for a while the men got more comfortable and deeper lying motives for buying grooming products were discovered. However, the degree of this varied as some men were much more open than others, and as my interviewing skills increased with practice. The interviews were as suggested by Kvale (2007) finished with a debriefing where I as the interviewer stated I have no further questions. Is there anything else you would like to bring up, or ask about, before we finish the interview? gives the subject an additional opportunity to deal with issues he or she has been thinking or worrying about during the interview (Kvale, 2007). Ethnography Ethnography (also referred to as participant observation) is the direct observation and documentation of some group or community, their practices and habits, and, primarily, aspects of their culture (St. Martin & Pavlovskaya, 2009). Ethnography has the ability to theoretically explain social and environmental phenomena by observing on the ground how people act within specific environments and document the dynamics as it is occurring (St. Martin & Pavlovskaya, 2009). One of marketers challenges is to use findings for strategic business decisions in order to create value. Ethnography responds to this challenge by observing consumers in their natural environment (Mariampolski, 2006). I therefore argue that ethnography serves an important purpose when researching men s behavior in store. What happens at the point of purchase when they buy or intend to buy grooming products? The information collected from an onsite study will be more valid than simply asking men about their behavior, as behavior often is 37

38 unconscious, and it also gives me the possibility to ask directly when the behavior is occurring. Additionally it allows me to observe important indicators like how much time they spend in front of the isles, how many products they touch before making a decision, etcetera. This is information that only can be obtained by observing. Nonetheless, because observations alone will provide me with mostly quantitative information like for example the time spent in front of the isles, and body language that can be hard to interpret, I will follow up with interviews of the observed men, providing richer qualitative data with higher validity and reliability. Observations of men in-store My observations were conducted in two different stores, Rema 1000 Oslo and Rimi Oslo. The first observations done at Rema 1000 in Oslo did not yield a satisfying number of observations and another location, Rimi Oslo, was therefore chosen for collecting additional data 8. After 13 observations were 11 allowed for a follow up interview I decided to end the observations as I had reached a point of saturation, meaning no new knowledge or info was obtained for each new observation. The following questions were answered when observing the men in store: 1. How many seconds spent in front of the isle 2. Number of products touched 3. Reads the label? 4. Asks for help? 5. Buys product? The complete filled out form can be found as Appendix 6. The goal of these parameters were to measure the behavior of men when standing in front of the isle were the decision to buy or not buy is made. The questions asked were based on the literature reviewed and the findings in the in-depth interviews, stating for instance that men do not ask for help when at the point of purchase and that they do not enjoy shopping, hence, spend less time browsing in store. They want to save time and therefore they will be quicker decision makers than women. Question number one, two and three derives from the theory that men spend less time than women in store and question number four derives from the theory that men are 8 See appendix 6 for detailed information from the observations 38

39 so called lonely hunters not asking for help in store. The fourth question determines what questions should be asked in the follow up interview. In addition to the questions above an open mind was kept, observing as much as possible in regards to the mood and the body language of the men in order to create a nuanced picture of the in-store behavior. I also observed women in order to highlight the differences between the genders in a shopping situation for grooming products. The same measures were taken for women, but no interviews were conducted. This is due to the study not being a comparison between genders, however, as I was observing I saw major differences between the genders which was interesting to write down as it underpins men s distinctiveness when buying grooming products. I was prepared to find men who evaluated products without purchasing, however this was not the case. I was also prepared to find women buying grooming products for men, but that scenario did not occur either. All the men observed were therefore buyers and no women were interviewed. Follow-up interviews 13 men were observed in store, were 11 allowed me to interview them. I approached the men by introducing myself and explaining my purpose, then asking politely if I could ask them some questions in regards to the product they had just chosen. The interviews were much shorter than planned because most of them claimed to be in a hurry and they were quite surprised when asked questions about their purchase, it was obvious that they felt somewhat uncomfortable answering questions. I had developed a semi structured interview guide for the follow up-interview, but depending on what I observed, questions elapsed accordingly. Even though I was not able to ask as many questions as I had hoped, and the probing was limited, I still got a good picture of men s shopping behavior in store. The interviews were not recorded due to three factors: 1) The grooming isle was very close to the cashier, and the men were determined to quickly get in line, I therefore had to rush over to interview them and did not have time to set up the recorder, 2) concerns about them expressing to be in a rush, and that they would turn down the interview due to the somewhat sensitive subject 3) concerns from the store manager about the consumer s feeling their privacy being invaded. The answers were therefore written down straight away to make sure the their statements were accurate. 39

40 Limitations I was not successful in finding a perfumery or pharmacy that allowed me to do participant observations. The reason I wanted to include different type of retailers was based on previous discussions under place about difference in store atmosphere, personnel qualifications/knowledge and service level, influencing men s decision making. In perfumeries and pharmacy s the personnel most often asks the customer for assistance and they were viewed by the men interviewed as more reliable sources of information than the personnel in grocery stores, due to their specialization in the field. Interviewing men who purchase in perfumeries and pharmacy s could have provided different data than that of grocery stores, providing a more extensive picture. However, three store managers agreed to an interview on how they experienced men buying grooming products. These interviews were included as part of my methods for gathering data. Interviews of store personnel Three women with extensive experience in selling men s grooming products were interviewed at Parfymelle Oslo, Vita Oslo and Kicks Oslo. Due to their frequent interaction with men at the point of purchase, their knowledge was viewed as a suitable supplement for not being able to observe and interview men directly in these stores. The interview objects confirmed the knowledge I had gained through in depth interviews of men and participant observations, which further confirmed the quality of the data gained from using this method. Two of the interview objects agreed to being recorded, while the last one did not, this interview was therefore transcribed directly. The complete interviews can be found as appendix 7. Quality of research The general point of view is that validity and reliability in qualitative research is different than from quantitative research, and should therefore be measured differently (Kvale, 2007; Patton, 2002). Flick (2007) furthermore argues that research quality in qualitative research should be measured based on the approach for each study. For this study I have chosen to discuss three important aspects as suggested by Kvale (2007) in regards to validity and reliability: 40

41 The interviewer, me, as partaker in the interview situation, validation of informant statements and transparency in my method of analysis. In this study, the interviewer is seen as partaker in the social construction of the reality that is produced during the interviews (Kvale, 2007). This is a central concern because the research has been carried out by only one analyst. However, interviewer/analyst influence is always an issue in qualitative analysis (Flick, 2007), I argue that this is a general weakness for qualitative analysis, rather than for this particular study. This could have been improved by having a third party analyze my findings and compare them to mine, however, finding such a person turned out negative. In regards to validation of informant s statements this could have been improved by sending the transcripts of the interviews back to the interviewee. This way the interview object could have read the statements and made corrections if he feels he has been interpreted incorrect. I argue that in my case this could resolve in important findings being withdrawn. As many of the men got more comfortable when they started their sentences with this is a bit embarrassing, but My concern was that they would read the interview and feel embarrassed by having been too honest, and have me rewrite the meaning. The interviews are therefore only analyzed by me, the researcher. All interviews have been carried out in Norwegian, whereas the full thesis is written in English. I have considered it necessary to conduct the interviews in Norwegian in order to allow for free expression with no lingual difficulties for all informants. Firstly, the interviews were transcribed in Norwegian, and afterwards the quotes being used directly in the thesis were translated to English. Hence, the words used for the quotes are not the exact words of the interviewee s, however, to counterweigh this a third party has proofread the Norwegian/English translation, aiming at raising communicative validation (Kvale, 2007). Flick (2007a) argues that reliability for qualitative studies is a matter of making the production of data as transparent as possible. This thesis aims at a high level of transparency by stating all processes and decisions taken, and allowing the reader to be able to check which parts are direct statements of interviewees, and what has been interpreted by the researcher (Flick, 2007). This has been done by outlining the participant s statements in italic and presenting them after a topic has been discussed, 41

42 this way the reader may see how the analyst is interpreting the statement (Flick, 2007). All of the men interviewed are Norwegian, but three of the men currently study in Copenhagen. This could be seen as a possible limitation, but I argue that the consumer behavior in regards to grooming will not change or be any different than if these men lived in Norway, Norway and Denmark being very much alike in regards to this topic. The last measure of quality I would like to point out is the fact that I as a women and a known person to the informants made it difficult for them to freely speak about the influence of women and wanting to look attractive to the opposite sex, this will be commented in the last chapter limitations. 6 Analysis Method of Analysis Many analyses of interviews are conducted without following any specific analytic method, but rather combine different methods. Bricolage, as presented by Kvale (2007) is a common approach of interview analysis, and refers to mixed technical discourses combining different analytic techniques. Bricolage was the technique chosen when analyzing the interviews and the in-store observations, as it allowed me to start the analysis already when interviewing, as I saw patterns and themes emerged. After having transcribed the interviews they were read through to get an overall impression, and then I went back to specific interesting passages, in addition to coding by counting statements or words being repeated many times, indicating different attitudes to a phenomenon. All the interviews were manually transcribed, as listening to the interviews and writing down everything was considered the part of the analysis, as new meanings and understanding were easier to notice the second time around. The coding was also done manually, and was only done with some interesting parts of the text were there was an obvious amount of repetition. Quotes and metaphors were then chosen to capture key understandings. Kvale (2007) argues that such tactics of meaning generation may bring out connections and structures significant to a research project (Kvale, 2007). 42

43 The informants in the in-depth interviews are in the discussion referred to with the initial of their first and last name and their age, to maintain anonymity, i.e. MV30 refers to informant MV, who is 30 years old. The in-store participants were not asked to state their name, only age. The men s observation number along with their age, e.g. M8-25, is therefore used as a reference. In the table below is an overview of the in-depth interview informant s demographic and geographic variables in addition to the products they currently use and a table of the in-store participants along with details about the observations. FIGURE 5: In-depth informants information Male Geo/demographics Products used JM24 MV30 MH24 EI28 CS35 Status: single Occupation: Economics student Residential area: Oslo Children: 0 Status: single Occupation: Finance Residential area: Oslo Children: 0 Status: single Occupation: Economics student Residential area: Copenhagen Children: 0 Status: In a relationship Occupation: Economics student Residential area: Copenhagen Children: 0 Status: Married Occupation: Entrepreneur Residential area: Oslo Children: 1 Biotherm deodorant Id hair wax American crew shaving cream American crew shampoo Body wash (Forgot to bring and could not recall. But states that he used the first and best thing at the supermarket) Cosmica deodorant Vaseline Intensive care body wash (unisex) Define shampoo Hårologi Stockholm fiber paste (hair styling) Obagi facial cream Obagi cleansing gel Nivea deodorant KMS hair wax Moroccan oil shampoo and hair mask Dove body wash (unisex) Nivea deodorant for men American Crew hair wax Anthony shampoo for men Anthony shaving cream for men Anthony facial moisturizer for men Uses girlfriends body wash (Does not recall brand) Sterilan deodorant (women/unisex) Define hair clay for men Kerastase shampoo for men Living Nature moisturizer (women/unisex) 43

44 Uses wife s body wash (Does not recall brand) BØ39 Status: Married Occupation: Sales manager Residential area: Oslo Children: 3 Biotherm deodorant for men Biotherm facial moisturizer for men American Crew hair paste for men Kerastase shampoo for men Uses wife s body wash (L Occitane) SH34 Status: In a relationship Occupation: Marketing analyst Residential area: Drammen Children: 1 Biotherm deodorant for men Biotherm facial moisturizer for men Biotherm cleansing gel for men Elvital unisex shampoo Uses girlfriends body wash (Dr.Woods) As seen in the table above, the men are between 24 and 39 years of age, were three are single and four are married/in a relationship, and three of them are fathers. Three out of seven study economics, while four works in white-collar professions 9. They all live in urban areas, and they all use an average of four grooming products on a daily basis, with a predominance of product especially designed for men. Participants one through eight are observed at Rema 1000 Oslo, , between and 17.00, while nine through thirteen are observed at Rimi Oslo between and As a total, fifteen products were bought, where six of them were body wash, four shampoos, two deodorants, two boxes of hair wax and one lip balm. Five out of fifteen products are products especially designed for men. 9 White collar professions is a common term used to describe people who performs professional, managerial, or administrative work (wikipedia). 44

46 Discussion, Key findings and Marketing- implications 7 Discussion Involvement, experience and knowledge Research has demonstrated that involvement with a product category is an important determinant of consumer purchasing behavior (Brodowski, 1998; Orth and Firbasova, 2003) and as anticipated, based on the large product category, different products attained different levels of involvement in regards to time and effort dedicated to the purchasing process, as well as in regards to the parameters found by Dodd et al (1997) and Lockshin (2001) respectively, perceptions of services and store and salesperson trust (Dodd and Gustafson, 1997; Lockshin et al., 2001). Knowledge and experience was important in order to understand why the behavior did or did not occur, as well as the motivation and attitude behind, and will be essential for further marketing implications. Starting off with explaining product involvement, experience and knowledge for each of the products generated, aims at giving the reader a better understanding of the behavior when discussed throughout the chapter. According to Euromonitors report on men s grooming in Norway, a tidy and wellkept hairstyle is one of the most important aspects of personal grooming habits among Norwegian men and both young and older Norwegian men dedicate a great deal of attention on the appearance of their hair. Hair styling products generated the highest level of involvement with all the men interviewed and observed, confirming that personal relevance is an important measure for involvement. All the men had a clear picture of what their hair ideally should look like and they knew exactly how they wanted the texture of the hair styling products to be and the result they wanted to obtain. Purchase of hair styling products was therefore both rational and emotionally driven, because emphasis was both on product attributes as well as the importance of a well-kept hairstyle in regards to overall appearance. Hair styling was something all the men had used almost everyday since they were teenager, and they therefore had a high level of experience with different trends/hair styles and different products, making them more confident in their choices and more confident about discussing it with me, friends and in store personnel. 46

47 Another product that generated high involvement was deodorant. Bad odor, sweat marks or yellow stains on white shirts was seen as embarrassing in a social setting, a deodorant that worked well was therefore of great importance and both rational and emotional needs were drivers of behavior. Deodorant was also a product the men had used everyday since puberty, and therefore had many years of experience and clear opinions about what they wanted and not wanted, causing them to be more involved in the decision making process. Skin care products yielded a high level of involvement in that they had strong opinions about what to use or not use. However, they lacked experience and knowledge with this product category and why to use it, which resulted in no purchase, less use and usage of less sophisticated products. Skin Care was also a product category that was, unlike the other products, introduced to them in recent years, and use was often more irregular than with e.g. hairstyling and deodorant. Only one of the men interviewed (SH34) claimed to be addicted to using facial moisturizer on a daily basis. The low knowledge also caused the men to feel insecure about this product category, which made them involve less in searching for information. Lack of knowledge combined with the fear of feminine behavior were two factors that had a negative influence on the decision making process for skin care, and low perception of behavior control as explained by Ajzen initially (1991) was therefore evident in these examples, stalling purchase. The lowest level of involvement was found in regards to shampoo and body wash. These findings are in line with Unilever s report stating that men s involvement with shampoo and body wash is low, and that they often will use anything they find in the shower at home (Franca, 2013). Drivers of behavior were mostly linked to utilitarian needs and functional benefits. Only one of the men interviewed put effort into buying shampoo and saw it as important in maintenance of a great hairstyle. The other men did not see shampoo as a part of their styling process as it was only to get their hair clean, and one of the repeated arguments was that unlike hair styling, the product is washed right out. In regards to body wash the men could not really justify their choices or even recall the brands they used, and in line with Unilevers report, the men interviewed often used whatever was in the shower at home. In many of the cases the 47

48 men did not buy body wash themselves. However, they still expressed negative attitude towards the quality of very cheap products, especially private labels. As long as the products were not pink or smelled too feminine, body wash and shampoo were the two products where most of the objects did not care if the product was unisex, as many of them did not see it as necessary with a for men product in this category. The importance of price/quality, avoidance of feminine behavior, product packaging and scent will be discussed thoroughly in the upcoming headlines. Routine purchase and product loyalty It quickly became evident that grooming purchases could be classified as routine purchases, and after having gone through the decision making process for first-time purchases or having been given products as a gift etc., the same product was chosen over and over in order to simplify this process. The men therefore stayed very loyal once they had found a product they were satisfied with. The high involvement discussed initially was therefore mostly found in regards to the first time purchase. When interviewing men after having observed them in store, it became evident that they already knew what they wanted and that they had set their mind to that product, in other words the purchases were mostly planned. In the cases of unplanned purchases, the men recalled that they needed new grooming products when in-store, but still set their mind to directly finding the same product as they already used. All the men except from one knew that they were going to buy the product chosen and explain that they always buy the same product because it works fine. Combined with the knowledge gained from the in-depth interviews this also points in the direction that men seem very brand loyal, they choose the same product over and over, not necessarily because they are very satisfied with the product, but because it works fine and by choosing the same product they avoid going through an extensive decision making process, which they view as being time consuming and as they put it themselves, a hassle. This can be defined as false loyalty because the brand faithfulness is not based on brand resonance, but rather avoiding decision-making. In regards to skin care, it was obvious that their lack of knowledge enhanced false loyalty even further, as most of them did not feel confident enough to search for alternative products. 48

49 I am a creature of habit, I am like that with all products. M3:24 If I find something that works, then there is no use in trying something new. Then you avoid trying products that do not work, you avoid getting annoyed over it and you avoid using money on something else. To be honest, if it works ok I do not feel the need to try something new. MV30 The men interviewed wants to simplify the decision making process as they usually do not enjoy to engage too much in the purchase of grooming products, confirming that men often see shopping for grooming as utilitarian rather than hedonic. Referring to the first headline, this can partly be explained by product involvement, experience and knowledge, however other important factors of influence will be revealed in the next paragraphs. It is important to note that this false loyalty is very central for marketers because it shows that even though men seem loyal, it is not due to strong, favorable and unique brand associations, and therefore they might easily switch brands. This will be discussed further under Marketing Implications. Personality and Self-image According to previous studies grooming products are increasingly becoming parts of men s definition of self and in the creation of a desired self-image, and is therefore an important psychological influence on decision-making (Solomon, Bamossy, Askegaard, & Hogg, 2006, s. 212) (Firat et al., 1995, p. 42) (Sturrock & Pioch, 1998). There were no signs of any correlation between low involvement products, shampoo and body wash and the creation of self-image, as these products generated rather low personal relevance. However, my findings correlates strongly to those of Euromonitor, who found that a tidy and well-kept hairstyle is one of the most important aspects of personal grooming habits among Norwegian men, and that a great deal of attention is dedicated on the appearance of their hair as it represents their personality. All the men interviewed used hair styling products everyday, except from days were they were not to be seen in social settings. If they had a bad hair day or overslept and did not have time to fix their hair, they wore a caps or a hat to cover it up, as they felt un-representable. 49

50 This winter my hair was quite long, then I use a lot of time fixing it, and that s why I cut my hair short sometimes, because I have this thing, it has to be perfect and if it rains outside I always think, shit, what do I do now? I fix my hair everyday, unless I use a cap. If I m pressed on time I just put on a caps, and it s ok. That's why I use a cap, because I want to hide something. MH24 Hair styling products was the only product category where there was a clear and direct link between the product and the creation of a desired self-image and personal style. As the men had gotten older they recognized what hairstyle suited them best, and they were less concerned with following hair trends and more concerned with having their own personal style, preferences in product benefits were therefore very individual. However, the overall criterion was that the desired hairstyle would hold throughout the day. Hairstyle was often discussed in relation to clothing, as it was part of completing a desired look being suited-up and well groomed or more roughlooking. Four of the men mentioned the importance of a well-kept hairstyle when wearing a suit, and one of the men expressed an overall concern between grooming in general and creation of personal style. When I put on a suit I wish to be more slick, it is horrible to hear me say it, but I want to look nice and tidy. But if I am going to distortion (music festival) I m keen on looking rougher, I am unshaved, and you are supposed to be rougher, if you know what I mean. It definitely has something to do with style, and I can image that when I start working, the more I have to wear a suit and the more concerned I will get with grooming JM24 Another interesting example in regards to the importance of a well-kept hairstyle in creation of self-image was from one of the men who were suffering from severe hair loss. He explains that he used to be much more dandy and concerned with his overall appearance, but after he lost his hair he has become much less concerned with how he looks. His hair was the most important thing to him (in regards to appearance), and now that he has lost it, the rest is not as important as it used to be. Another example was from one of the men who were concerned with hair loss; he saw it as the worst thing that could happen to his appearance and he explains that every time he goes to the hairdresser he asks if she thinks his hair has gotten any thinner. 50

51 When discussing the use of grooming as a way to express a desired self-identity it quickly became evident that there was a fine line between what was viewed as an acceptable amount of creation and what was viewed as feminine behavior. Two of the men explicitly stated that when men use cosmetic products to enhance beauty, than that is stepping over a line, and not considered okay behavior. Being too concerned with appearance was viewed as something negative and arguments like feminine and narcissism yielded negative attitude. These examples are in line with previous research showing that men do not want their grooming to be seen as feminine, and to protect their masculine identities they often use a functional justification to rationalize behavior. A scrub is just to keep your face clean, that s fair enough, but if you start using make-up then it has gone too far. I don t think I know anyone who does that, but I have heard about people here at school who use bronzing powder, that s too far out for me. EI28 Self-esteem was another driver of behavior in regards to using grooming product, and especially the older men interviewed were generally more concerned with their own self-esteem and the feelings the grooming products provided for them, rather than creating an image or thinking about what others thought of their looks. Previous research states that when men mature, and especially when they become fathers, they become more confident of who they are, and in there grooming choices. This was to some degree evident amongst the three oldest interviewees who all were fathers. Even though they still were concerned with how they looked, this concern was generally bigger amongst the younger interviewees. External influence and the subjective norm will be discussed further under the next headline. It goes in this this order: first of all what I like, self esteem is everything. A good self-esteem is more important than what the ladies say, because a good self esteem makes it possible to accommodate complements from others in a better way. And then there is recognition from others. MH24 51

52 External influence Studies show that men feel an increased pressure from society on looking good and the expectations has led to an increased purchase of grooming products and other appearance related products (Burton, Netemeyer, & Lichtenstein, 1995; McNeill & Douglas, 2011). According to Euromonitor, Norwegian men are under a lot of pressure to look good, especially younger Norwegian men. All the men interviewed did agree to having noticed a greater amount of pressure on looks, but expressed that it had not caused increased grooming purchases; rather they talked about an increased pressure on keeping their body in shape and wearing fashionable clothing. Previous studies show that men are strongly influenced by significant females like their mothers, wife s or girlfriends in regards to grooming products and that these women often introduce men to more sophisticated products. The interviews and observations revealed that girlfriends and wife s was the number one influencer to the men in a relationship, while two of the single men were to some degree influenced by their mothers. However, this was mostly evident in regards to skin care products, due to lack of experience and knowledge and once the women had introduced them to these more sophisticated products they had continued using them on a regular basis. Facial, not cream but oil, I use it on my face and beard, living moisturizer raw gaia it s an oil, very organic stuff. Me: Is that important to you? It is important to my wife CS35 In product categories such as hair styling and deodorant were the men had clear preferences and experience, influenced by significant women was low. One interesting statement that highlighted the difference in influence between products was the example of CS35 as illustrated above. With skin care he used what his wife bought for him which was an organic oil, but when talking about deodorant he expressed that his wife wanted him to use another one, one that was free from 52

53 parabens 10, where he responded: but I am not such a push-over. Deodorant was a product were he had experience and clear preferences due to concerns of social embarrassment in regards to smelling badly at work, and it once again becomes evident that knowledge, experience and involvement are important drivers when determining behavior. With body wash and shampoo the men in a relationship used what was in the shower and the significant women were therefore the purchaser. During my in-store observation one of the men bought a unisex body wash and when asked why he bought it he responded that it was on the shopping list given to him by his girlfriend. Shampoo was also a product were the respondents often used their girlfriends, wife, mothers or even sisters products and in the cases of men in relationships all except from one was completely absent in the decision making process of buying shampoo. McNeill and Douglas also argued that women can be an important motivation for staying groomed and smelling nice because men know that women in todays society have increased expectations and they want to please them (McNeill & Douglas, 2011). Staying groomed for the ladies was more important and expressed to a larger degree by the younger, single men, then the men in a relationship. However as discussed under limitations, getting the men to open up about this topic was difficult. Previous research states that male friends are considered an influencer at an early stage of the grooming product consumption, and the more mature men get the more confident they become in their choices of grooming products, and that especially after becoming fathers, men become more aware of what they want, they are more confident in their choices and do not live by other people s standards to the same degree (Dove, 2011; McNeill & Douglas, 2011) My findings corresponded with those of McNeill et all. and the men recalled episodes from when they were in secondary and high school and in the gym wardrobe were the products were much more exposed to others, which led to trends in what products to use and not use. Hair styling products were the only product that the men felt like they still could discuss with guy friends, as hair products was viewed as more manly to talk about than the other product categories such as facial care, avoiding feminine behavior. 10 Chemical preservative substance (http://paraben.co.uk/) 53

54 We talk about hair wax, it can be a topic of discussion, but it is not the first thing you talk about. But I would never ask a buddy do you have a good moisturizer to recommend? Guys probably care about their looks, but like me I think they are uncomfortable with talking about it, you are afraid of falling into the gay category. EI28 BØ39, CS35 and SH34 were the only fathers and the oldest of the interview objects, and they stated to have had discussed products with friends and being influenced at an earlier age but claimed not be influenced by and never discuss such products with friends. Not at my age, maybe a little bit, or no, I think it s more if you smell badly then people will think its gross. But I don t feel any pressure at all about using this shampoo or that deodorant or if I use skin care or not. I don t really care about what others think of me, I am more concerned with how I feel about myself. BØ39 The three oldest men interviewed claimed to feel little pressure from society on grooming, and none from friends. The younger men felt a stronger pressure, and especially the ones studying claimed that there was an underlying competition amongst men in their social circle to look good. This could imply that like McNeill et all and Dove s report, maturity and becoming fathers makes men more confident with their choices and less affected by external influence and the subjective norm. However, all the men expressed that their grooming products and grooming trends have changed a lot with age but not by emphasizing age, but by talking about the natural changes in lifestyle and socio cultural environments that comes with getting older. There was more pressure on stuff like that when I was younger, in my teenage years, my 20 s and when especially when I was a student. I noticed that in environments like that there was greater focus on stuff like that. I mean when you work in the suburbs with the locals well we do have some younger people there is one guy in his early 20 s he is very groomed and dandy, I think he uses a lot of products. But it is not something that you talk about at work, then you would get bullied. But when I attended business school it was more accepted to talk about it. The environments you are in and what obtains the people in that environment has a lot to do with it. SH34 54

55 You identify yourself with people who has the same mindset as you, so in one way there is this latent thought that all people in your group of friends are trying to be the best looking one MH24 The consumer as a tribe member becomes evident in some of the men s statements, were they express avoidance of behavior to not be bullied or made fun of by others in the same tribe. If maturity, becoming fathers and increased confidence is the decisive factor or if age and life situation leads to a natural change in the way we interact with people (no more gym wardrobe at school) or a change in the people we surround ourselves with and the tribes we want to be part of (from students to olderco workers) is interesting for further research. However, external influence shows to be a very important factor in regards to men s grooming purchases, as it affects their behavior greatly. Product and attributes The amount of grooming products owned, scent, texture, color, design and labeling all had significant influence on the decision making process and perception and attitudes in regards to the product and product attributes were important drivers of behavior. Scent When discussing the products that the men had brought with them to the interview, one of the first things they motioned in regards to the products was the scent. The attribute scent raised strong opinions in all the interviewees, and surprisingly the same statements kept repeating themselves in regards to scent. One criterion was of great importance, the grooming products should not smell too strongly or too masculine nor should they smell too feminine, neutral was a word that was used to describe the preferred scent of grooming products. One reason was that they wanted their perfume to be the scent that defined them, and if the products smelled too strongly there would be a mix of scents and eventually they would end up smelling badly. When they invest time and money in a fragrance, that s what they want to be their defining scent. This was illustrated in several statements. 55

56 I just don t feel that you need a scented body wash and stuff like that because you have found a perfume you like, why should you then smell ten other things at the same time? Then there will be such a bad mix of it all. MV30 Another factor in regards to scent was strong memories from teenage consumption, many of the men mentioned having used products such as Dobbel Dusch and Axe as teenagers, and they had negative perceptions about the smell as it reminded them of the gym wardrobe and being immature. They perceived strong masculine smells as something that belonged to the past, the scent of teenage boys, not grown up men. Again, behavior being influenced by tribe membership was evident, as they clearly expressed what they did not want. When I buy body wash I choose the products that do not smell like Dobbel Dusch, that smell is stuck in my nose since the gym wardrobe at secondary- and high school. MV30 After probing the meaning of the word strong, strong masculine scent and perfumed I found that it also symbolizes products that are harsh on the skin. All the men preferred mild products and scent was important in the decision on whether a product was mild and good for their skin or strong, hence, bad for their skin. In some of the cases they explicitly stated that strongly fragranced products caused a skin reaction and that they had sensitive skin, but even in the cases were they did not claim to be sensitive, a rather mild, neutral smell was still preferred. This was most evident with high involvement products used directly on the skin, like deodorant and skin care. With deodorant I am very careful with what I use, I do not want perfumed products like those fashion brands, they make my armpits sore. I use something as neutral as possible SH34 Those body wash for men often smell very Axe-like, very cheap. I just want something much more neutral. MV30 However, it was still important to them that the smell was not feminine, neutral was the preferred word to describe the preferred scent. 56

57 Those women fragrances often smell too sweet, this one (his skin care cream) is a bit more masculine. It does not have to smell masculine, as long as it does not smell too feminine SH34 Suddenly you smell of ladies perfume, that s a shame MV30 With hairstyling products on the other hand, scent was not as important as the concern of harshness and sensitivity was not evident in regards to hair, only skin. Many of the grooming products on today s market use a strong masculine scent as part of their targeting strategy. The Old Spice commercial Smell like a man, man. even uses scent as the main driver when trying to get men to use body wash especially designed for men (Procter & Gamble, 2010). The perception that most men prefer a strong masculine sense was rejected by the men interviewed and observed, and it is therefore important for marketers to avoid stereotyping men and understand the differences and sophistication that exists among the male consumers today. Package design and color Attractive packaging design will according to Euromonitor be an important driver of growth in the male grooming segment in Norway, and the parameter was therefore of great importance in the interviews. Surprisingly, packaging was in most of the cases not naturally brought up by the men, like the previous discussed parameter, scent. This could imply that scent is a stronger driver of behavior, than packaging. However, because packaging is noticed before the scent, and due to packaging being one of the main drivers of growth in the men s segment, it was important to discuss. Nevertheless, when brought up, the topic generated some interesting findings. When asked about the design and color of the products they currently use, most of them stated that the color does not really matter and that they liked the design and color of their product, but that they had not really though too much about it. Several of them explicitly stated that color was not so important, as long as the product was not pink. 57

58 If all the products would had been in pink I would probably not have bought them, but I haven t though too much about the color to be honest. BØ39 Pink was not surprisingly perceived as a very feminine color yielding negative attitude. When the interviewees were showed pictures 11 of several different men s grooming products with distinct design and color, deeper lying attitudes in regard to color were exposed. Different subjective preferences were shown, but words like cheap looking perfumed strong and aggressive, was generated by some in regards to L Oreal s combination of orange and grey, while positive words in regard to packaging and design were simple, exclusive classic mild and clean generated by lighter blue/turquoise, white and green. Even though the attitudes towards the different colors were subjective and varying, six out of seven men preferred the same product in regards to design and color, Yves Rocher. All the designs shown can be seen in Appendix 7, but due to Yves Rocher being a clear favorite I have decided to include a picture below, to allow the reader to better follow the discussion. Illustration: Yves Rocher grooming products for men I just think it looks very delicate, very nice package design MH24 McNeill et al. found in their study on New Zealand men that green and white grooming products were perceived as feminine and that blue and black were preferred packaging colors due to it s more masculine nature. This is contradicting to my findings were green and white were viewed as positive colors because they 11 Appendix 7 58

59 symbolized a very important product attribute: mildness. While black, dark blue and orange generated perceptions about strong scents, which again symbolizes strong products that are harsh on the skin. The popularity of natural grooming lines for men is also expected to increase, and as seen in the comment above from SH34, the product gives him an eco-feeling. Even though few of the men were concerned with the product being natural or ecological, the word natural was motivating for many of them due to notions of mildness. Some of the men had also been introduced to natural grooming products through their wives and girlfriends, and was therefore more knowledgeable and positive towards using natural products. I also think Yves Rocher smells less like Axe, than the others. Because of the neutral green color and because it looks like time and effort was put into the design. MV30 One of the men comments on why he uses the word aggressive to describe L Oreals use of grey and orange: It is a sharper color, which symbolizes something else for me. It is too strong for me, I am sensitive. It looks perfumed. But I am not sure if it actually is. SH34 Interviews with in store personnel further enhanced these findings as the women in all three perfumeries claimed that the best selling products are those with less masculine package design. At Parfymelle and Kicks the best selling skin care series are from Biotherm 12, with a turquoise color and at Vita the best selling product is Bulldog Skincare 13, which is white and brown. This further underlines that previous research might not be applicable to the Norwegian market, and that the cosmetic industry often stereotype men when they chose colors like dark blue and black. From the men s statements above it is evident that the color of the packaging communicates the product benefits and the products scent. Another important determiner was the relationship between packaging design and color in regards to exclusiveness and quality versus cheap looking. Many of the men expressed that products that looked exclusive was preferred, especially in regards to skin care products. Biotherm s aqua/turquoise color and Yves 12 Appendix 8 13 Appendix 9 59

60 Rocher s white and green were said to look more exclusive than Nivea s dark blue and L Oreals orange and grey. Attitude towards packaging is therefore more important than firstly assumed. One obvious weakness in regards to this is the interference of branding, as the men knew that Nivea was cheaper than Biotherm, and therefore the attitude is not solely based on color and design, however it is important to note that the color communicated the product attributes. Visual preferences can often be unconscious and other research methods could have been used in order to yield higher validity in regards to packaging color and design and avoid the interference of brand knowledge, this will be discussed in the chapter Further research. Similar to the previous discussion in regards to scent, it once again becomes evident that gentleness towards the skin is an important driver for consumption of grooming products for Norwegian men, and that packaging design and color communicates the product attributes, which in turn forms an attitude towards the product. In addition the perceived mildness, exclusiveness and quality of the product enhances the positive attitude towards the grooming product. Product labeling The men interviewed all claimed that For Men labeling was of importance, however, once again this seemed of greater importance with products that generated higher involvement like skin care, deodorant and hair wax, than for body wash and shampoo. The argued reasons for wanting for men labeling on the products they used was mostly due to avoiding confusion because of the jungle of products out there and because they thought that products especially designed for men was better for men s skin, as they perceived men and women s skin to be different. When asked further about the difference in men and women s skin, the knowledge was limited and the perception was based on the fact that since the industry produces gender distinctive products, there must be a difference. Probing this further it became evident that once again the for men labeling was helping them avoid feminine behavior, and one of the men even stated that he would feel less of a man if he used unisex products. 60

61 If I had a unisex product I would maybe feel like less of a man. It sounds stupid, but that s how I feel. But most importantly the products should be for men because that s what they are, for men, especially designed for men and that s why you want to use it, because you think that s the best. JM24 In the interview with store personnel one of the women explained that when men walked into the store they automatically walked straight to the men isle. They automatically walk towards the men isle because it says for men and that s what they buy. But I don t necessarily think that s what they want, they can basically use anything, but they are scared that it is for women. They like it better if the products says men expert for example. Store personell Vita Sjølyst Even though For men labeling was another good indicator to make sure the products were for men, and a way for men to avoid feminine behavior, it was not found to be more important for product choice than product colors. This is consistent with what McNeill found in their study on young New Zealand that men. However, since most of the products for men on the market today use masculine colors to differentiate their products from women s products, it could be interesting to research if the for men labeling is more important with more unisex colors like white and green. Salzman et al. (2005) found in their study on The future of men that grooming manufacturers targeting men may benefit from keeping product labeling and description short and to the point, due to men wanting their grooming choices to be seen as utilitarian rather than self-indulgent. While this to a large degree corresponds to my findings, I also found the reason to be that the existing lack of knowledge combined with a difficult language created a frustration when not understanding what the product actually was, which resulted in a negative attitude towards the product and the product benefits. The men believed that the product was trying to fool them and trying to create an image of high quality. All the men interviewed had strong opinions in regards to the language used on product labeling and the explanations of product attributes. When they were showed different products they all reacted 61

62 negatively towards L Oreals use of terminology. To many of the men found the language presented by L Oreal was provoking, because it challenged their understanding and they had difficulties reading the label. Turbo booster what is that? Hydra energetic, turbo booster Wake-up anti revile, diffisili I mean, that s all nonsense. Foaming cleansing gel, wake-up effect. No, I think that s really bad. For men I believe the best thing is a product with less words, few words and very descriptive. MH24 Because men already lack knowledge with grooming products, especially with skin care I argue that like previous studies of Salzman et al. (2005) and (Csikszentmihalyi and Csikszentmihalyi 1988) (Reber, Schwarz and Winkielman 2004) (Clement 2007), men will find objects attractive if they are easy to perceive and understand and grooming manufacturers targeting men may benefit from keeping product labeling and description short, stating the functional benefits and avoiding complex terminologies. Product feeling and effect The product feeling refers to the actual texture and the products effect, but also the more emotional aspect of how it feels on the skin. Also here there was a clear distinction between products that generated high involvement, were the texture of the product and the effect was very important, while for low involvement products this was barely discussed. Statements like as long as the shampoo gets my hair clean it does not really matter, was more common for those products, while for higher involvement products like for example hair styling, texture and effect were the first things mentioned and the main drivers of behavior. Low involvement products generated very little emotions in terms of product feeling, while the emotional benefits were higher for high involvement products. In regards to hair styling it quickly became evident that the texture of the product was very important in order to get the right hairstyle. The right hairstyle was as previously discussed very important to the men as it reflects their personality. The right texture was however very individual due to different hair types and different preferred hairstyles. The knowledge with hairstyling products was deeper and the experience longer, the men were therefore very clear on the ideal product in regards to texture 62

63 and effect and they felt more comfortable in stating the important drivers of behavior. This underpins the importance of companies offering hair styling that the nuances among men s hair in addition to their knowledge and experience should be taken into account. Deodorant was another product that generated high involvement and also here the men had long experience and clear preferences in regards to texture and effect. One common feature was again the important of mildness against skin, which are both functional as well as an emotional benefit. In addition to the obvious criteria: keeping the armpits fresh and prevent bad odor. In addition many of the men liked wearing white shirts and t-shirts and using a deodorant that did not cause yellow stains on white shirts was a desired product attribute. Functional product benefits were mostly evident. It annoys me, if you were able to find a deodorant that does not cause yellow stains on white shirts It would have been a heck of a sales trick. Because those stains stick. MV30 Skin care generates higher involvement but the low degree of knowledge and experience causes fewer complex preferences in regards to texture and effect. All the men interviewed did however express concerns about dry winter skin due to the climate in Norway, and saw this as an uncomfortable state to be in. A moisturizing face cream was therefore crucial to use during the winter period. Except that it should relieve dry skin and not be harsh on the skin, two of the men were concerned with facial creams that were too greasy, as they wanted to avoid greasy skin. These statements were attached to a more underlying emotional feeling of having acne as teenagers, and saw greasy skin as something negative and socially embarrassing. Sturrock & Pioch (1998) found in their study that men are becoming concerned about the effects of ageing and the maintenance of a youthful appearance. Retention of youth was found in their study to be prevalent driver for the consumption of grooming products. Euromonitor predicts that it is likely that the range of anti-ageing products in men s skin care will increase in Norway during the forecast period 14. However Anti-age was not something that the men interviewed used or had any intention of using in the near future. Some of them said that they looked young and did not need

64 it, and some said that they probably should use it but did not really know why they didn t. Biotherm, plain moisturizer is what I sell most of to men. Many men joke about it I don t need any anti-age cream, can t you see how young looking I am? And then they are usually quite old. So they are more facetious about it. -Store personnel at Kicks Sjølyst She further explains that her experience is that men do not think long-term prevention with grooming but more problem and solution right here and right now. This could also explain why none of the men interviewed used anti-age, as they were relatively young. She further exemplifies this by telling a story about a man who had been sun bathing all summer and suddenly felt he had developed wrinkles around his eyes, he came to her and asked: how can I remove them? When she mentioned anti-age he reacted negatively because to him that was accepting having gotten old. This example shows both lack of knowledge and experience as well as avoidance of more sophisticated products due to negative attitude about aging. It also suggests that Norwegian men might differ from the findings of Sturrock and Pioch (1998) stating that men concern about the effects of ageing and the maintenance of a youthful appearance. However, this topic would need further research as the group of men studied is too small to generalize. A complete table summarizing the different products and the most desired attributes can be found as Appendix 10. Number of products owned McNeill et al (2011). found in their study on New Zealand men and grooming consumption that the amount of grooming products owned was important because owning too many products was seen as feminine behavior, hence, something that they wanted to avoid. In my interview with in-store personnel they explained that men often only want one product, and usually it is a plain facial moisturizer, and that buying whole ranges of products is less common. 64

65 They only want that one face cream, they don t want to wash their face or use a scrub and stuff like that, they don t like it. They usually just want what they want and what they have decided on. Just plain moisturizers, they don t want any anti-age, they are not quite there. -Store personnel at Vita Sjølyst The men interviewed all owned quite basic products like deodorant, shampoo, face cream and hair products, but few of them had more sophisticated products like serum, anti-wrinkle, eye cream and so forth. At first arguments about saving time and having read that using too many products was bad for the skin, was used to explain why they used few products. Some of the men owned or had owned products like facial scrub and facial cleanser but claimed that it was too time consuming to use them. People may use lots of products and stuff, that s fine, but I think that a few products is good, but in regards to the skin and stuff, I am not sure how good it is to use too many products, I believe that the skin can take care of itself. JM24 When probing this further, it became evident that these men also viewed owning and using a large number of products as feminine behavior, strong words like homosexual was used in regards to men who used many products and more sophisticated products. Owning many products was directly related to using a lot of time and effort on you appearance, which was seen as a feminine, generating a negative attitude. The amount of products plays an important role, the extensiveness of the product range. It has something to do with the process, how much time do you use in the bathroom? Women has different phases of skin care, if men do the same I m just like Jesus. SH34 According to Euromonitor 2-in 1 products are very popular amongst Norwegian men, and the number of hybrid products for men on the Norwegian market is expected to increase in the forecasting period 15. The use of these products was therefore an interesting topic, and due to the fact that men viewed having multiple products as negative, one could assume that hybrid products would generate positive attitude. However, I found that most of the men who used 2-in 1 products only used it when at the gym, to prevent having to carry around several products. Using 2-in-1, shampoo

66 and body wash, in the shower at home was viewed as negative; they saw the product as a product meant for their gym bag. In addition many of the men did not even use the products as a 2-in 1 product, and had negative associations towards using the same product for their body and hair. Even though shampoo and body wash generally was viewed as low involvement products, they still viewed it as a good body wash, but not suitable as a shampoo, due to perceptions about low quality. Some of the men also felt stereotyped, even though they knew they were simple in some sense, they were offended by being viewed as that simple. This could indicate that once again, the industry might be stereotyping men. 2-in 1 product is a very gym wardrobe, hockey, football thing. The positive thing is that it is practical, but if you have it in your shower you should re-evaluate. Now I sound very snobbish, but yeah, it s a good product for your gym bag. MH24 The hybrid products are therefore not necessarily being used as intended by the industry; this is an interesting finding, as how the products are actually being used is an important implication in regards to the communication strategy with men. Place The point of purchase or the Place were the grooming products were sold affected the perception and attitude towards the product and the service level, and visa versa. These three factors were therefore important drives of behavior. The observations of men in store also contributed to knowledge on how men act when in store and at the moment of truth, when the decision to buy or not buy is taken. Store preference Souiden & Diagne (2009) found in their study on French and Canadian men, that French men prefer to buy grooming products in specialty stores such as perfumeries, while Canadian men preferred supermarkets. My data shows that the preferred outlet is again linked to the level of product involvement generated by the different products sold there. With high involvement products the men had mostly negative attitudes against products and brands sold in supermarkets as they saw them as low quality products. They also perceived the products in supermarkets as strong, perfumed and not suitable 66

67 for sensitive skin, which as previously discussed was an important criterion for most of the men. If you buy those (hair wax) in grocery stores the effect only last for like 10 minutes, at least that s my impression. MV30 My skin is maybe a little sensitive and I have used some skin care products that has made my skin red, too much perfume or too strong or something, that was not good. And I think that is the reason why I don t buy skin care at the grocery store, because I believe that it does not suit my skin, sensitive skin. BØ39 Pharmacys and tax free were viewed as preffered outlets, due to respectivly positive perceptions about the high knowledge of the store personel and the good value for money. Perfumeries on the other hands generated more sceptical comments as the men could feel out of place and uncomfortable, and the avoidance of feminine behavior once again became evident. To me it is the fact that I am, well, not uncomfortable, but when I walk around in perfumeries I do not feel at home, I really don t. EI28 You are a bit scared to be perceived as feminine when going to a women in a perfumery. You might know that you want a product but you don t buy it because you are scared of being perceived as feminine. MH24 For low involvement products like shower gel and shampoo, supermarkets was mostly seen as a good distribution channel, as the products there severed its purpose, quality was less important and because it was convenient as they already were in the store, shopping for other commodities. The brand chosen also became less important and a higher level of brand switching was evident for these products as price often could serve as a motivation for purchase. However, it is worth mentioning that brand switching was not very common, even amongst low involvement products. Two of the men also viewed supermarkets as a good distribution channel for hairstyling and deodorant because they saved time and focus, but these two men, MH24 and CS35, were the only two who expressed lower involvement with respectively deodorant and hair styling products. 67

68 What can I say, it is more convenient, it s stressful to go to a dermatologist or a perfumery just to buy a deodorant. MH24 In-store help Previous studies on the male shopper states that men do not ask questions or for help when in store, and has therefore been referred to as lonely hunters. With products such as skin care, where the knowledge and experience was low, but the product criteria s were high, most of the men did express that help from in store experts were preferred. The same was stated with hair styling products, most of the men bought their products in hair salons, and they appreciated the expertise and recommendations made by the sales personnel. They viewed them as reliable and preferred the fact that they could get guiding. This behavior is rather contradicting, because even though they knew what they wanted from their hairstyling products and they expressed a high level of knowledge due to many years of experience, they still thought it was nice to get recommendations from a hairdresser. If it is a product where I have a strong opinion about how it should be, like for example with hair wax, then it is an advantage to be able to get help. MV30 One interesting aspect was however that in regards to hair products, receiving help from a female was seen as very natural and a reliable source, however, in regards to skin care some of the men expressed that they felt like women did not know what was best for their skin and as previously stated they were afraid to be seen as feminine men, by the women working in the store. I like to get help from people who really knows their stuff, the barber for example has been shaving since he was 14 and he really know what he is talking about. And those cosmetologists well, they probably know what they're talking about, but I think it's much better to get advice from a guy like that, and hear what they think about it. JM24 To sum up the discussion about store preference and in-store help, I found that the men had higher demands in regards to the place and the service level, regarding high involvement products. They also had negative perceptions about buying high involvement products in supermarkets, due to notions of low quality. For low involvement products on the other hand, supermarkets were viewed as convenient. 68

69 The lonely hunter trait was only evident in supermarkets were mostly low involvement products were bought, and in the cases of deodorant where they knew what they wanted. Perfumeries were generally viewed as negative due to the men feeling uncomfortable and scared of being viewed as feminine by the store personnel. In general, the men claimed to prefer getting expertise help with high involvement products. What is interesting in regards to this, is that in lines with Lockshin et al. findings, the importance of and involvement with the product, whether it is creating a desired image through hairstyling or avoiding sore armpits, directly affects the place and the importance of service level and trust provided by the store personnel (Lockshin et al., 2001). In-store behavior The theory reviewed in the previous chapter about men s in store behavior states that men move faster than women through the store aisles, and they buy fewer products. In many settings it can be hard to make them look at anything they had not intended to buy (Kotler & Keller, Marketing Management, 2009) (Davies & Bell, 1991). Observing men in store made it possible to look more closely at the actual behavior at the point of purchase, as behavior often can be unconscious and hard to recall by the men interviewed. During my observations I quickly saw a pattern of very little interaction with the products on the isles, quickly passing, looking determined after one product, picking it up and walking to the cashier with an average time spent of 19 seconds. However, most of the men only spent between 5-10 seconds in front of the isle. The men who spent longer time in front of the isle had difficulties finding what they were searching for, and I observed absolutely no cases were men were looking just for pleasure or to see if any products could be of interest. The men only bought one product each, except from one man who bought products for his girlfriend. Two men read the products label; one of them was the previously mentioned man who was shopping for his girlfriend, trying to find the right product. The other one was on his way to his cabin, and had forgotten his hair wax and needed something quickly. When asked about what he was looking for when reading the label, he replied, I was just checking to make sure it was hair wax (M4:30), again, showing little interaction with the products on the isle. 69

70 When interviewing these men after observing them it became evident that they already knew what they wanted and that they had set their mind to that product, in other words the purchases were mostly planned. In the cases of unplanned purchases, the men recalled that they needed new grooming products, but still sat their mind to directly finding the same product as they already use. When interviewing the in-store personnel in three different perfumeries, they all had the same conclusion about men buying grooming products, they usually know what they want and they go straight for those products and they usually do not want any help or recommendations for other products. They know what they want, they take it and they want to pay, that s how it is most of the time Store personnel Vita, Sjølyst One of the in store personnel also explains that they keep the men s grooming isle close to the entrance so that men quickly can find it, and that she experience that they find comfort in knowing were to go, without having to search too much for it. They do not bother to search for it. It must be within easy access, we can never change the location of that isle, then they ll freak out. Store personnel Parfymelle, Sjølyst The examples above further confirms false loyalty, but it also implies that as many theories states, men sees shopping for grooming products as utilitarian rather than hedonic, and that the combination of false loyalty, and low product knowledge, like discussed previously, makes it very challenging for marketers to get men to consideror look at other products than the once they had intended to buy. This is very important for further market implications. Online platforms Only one of the men interviewed claimed to have bought grooming products online, and he was also the only one who used Internet as a source for information on grooming products. All the men were experienced Internet users, and had bought other product categories such as electronics. Norwegian men shop more and for a higher amount of money on the Internet than Norwegian women (Virke, 2013) and absent e-commerce in the men s grooming 70

71 category can be explained by the fact that with hair styling products, the men interviewed like the recommendation from hairdressers, and as they go there regularly to cut their hair it is convenient. Men s lack of knowledge with skin care makes e- commerce difficult, they need guidance and they do not know where to go online and how to find the right products. For lower involvement purchases, supermarkets are more convenient as they are already there shopping for other commodities. However, e-commerce will probably become an important distribution channel in the future and can be an important tool for educating men about grooming, making the barriers of shopping online smaller. Price Quality was a word that kept repeating itself in the interviews with men, and especially with high involvement products like skin care and hair styling, the men were willing to pay a higher price for premium products, within reasonable limits. This is in line with Euromonitors report stating that the demand for premium men s grooming products is expected to increase at a faster rate than demand for mass men s grooming brands. The stuff I use is not the cheapest kind you get a the supermarkets, none of this is possible to buy in a supermarket, and it might be conscious that I buy products of higher quality and with nice packaging and design, I am concerned with quality, and so I convince myself that these products are of higher quality and I like things with a nice design. BØ39 Tax free was a frequently mentioned outlet for buying premium products to reduce prices, and most of the men mentioned that they preferred buying their products there, some even stated that they always asked others when traveling if they could purchase the product for them. This one I always buy at the tax free or I get someone to buy it for me, because it is quite expensive, it is even expensive at the tax free store, at least I think it is expensive, 260 kroners for a facial cream, this one and a deodorant I try to get at the tax free. I actually think that I have never bought it anywhere else. SH34 The financial situation of the men interviewed did vary due to three out of seven being students. However, all the students bought premium hair care products, as the 71

72 quality of the product was very important. One interesting finding was that in the case of skin care products the usage stalled in cases of low income, rather than resulting in cheaper purchases. This is probably due to men not being as addicted to using skin care products on a daily basis, as they are with for instance hair styling. In the cases of hair styling products and skin care many of the men expressed that paying a premium price was worth it because of the expert help received at point of purchase. The danger of buying the wrong product as discussed earlier also made price more insignificant and only in the cases were others assured them of the quality, would a cheaper product be evaluated. If the hairdresser had told me we have a wax from another brand that costs half of the one you use now but it is just as good then I could have tried it. Or if a buddy had told me that this wax is super good and it only costs 50 kroners, I would have tried it, but only because of the price. MV30 Previous research on men in regards to price shows that almost one third of male shoppers are associated with the price/value conscious- seeking traits, which in most cases was evident in my research. The men all wanted to feel like they received value for money, and in the cases were the products were more expensive they could always justify it with being of high quality, avoiding cognitive dissonance. Even though most of the men enjoyed the discounts provided by tax free, no evident examples of bargain hunter traits was found. However, low involvement products, especially shampoo, was more exposed to brands switching based on price, however, this was only evident in the cases were they felt that they received greater value for less money or in a few cases of students with low income. If Define is on 50% and is discounted from 60 to 30 kroners, I would choose that one over another one that usually costs 30 kroner. Because if it is more expensive it probably is better, the more it costs, the better I believe it is. MV30 In this case MV30 really felt like he made a good deal, but he also stated that he would never buy a shampoo from a private label because he viewed it as bad quality, and therefore low price without the wanted quality was never a motivating factor for purchase, even with lower involvement products like shampoo and body wash. Euromonitor s report states that the popularity of premium products for men continues to increase in Norway and on the contrary private label lines that offer a 72

73 variety of economical men s grooming products only accounted for a very low proportion of total men s grooming products. The importance of good quality therefore seems to be of greater importance than price, as long as the men perceive that the price can be justified by the quality. One very interesting aspect that further verified this was that some of the men expressed that when buying products at the grocery stores, price was not really an issue, because they perceived all the products as low price products and the differences in price were perceived as insignificant. All the men observed in-store claimed to not even having looked at the price of the product bought. When you buy your products at the grocery stores you will never exceed a price that is unacceptable, so price is not that important in that channel, it is all relatively cheap. MH24 For high involvement products price had a big influence on quality judgment, and there was a positive relationship between a high price (within reasonable limits) and good quality. It was worth paying premium price for hair styling products, and even students who expressed being in a bad economical situation thought it was worth spending money on premium products, as hairstyle is of great importance. Further it is important to note that price in supermarkets were of low influence on the decision-making when buying grooming products. Promotion In regards to promotion the men interviewed could all recall having seen TV commercials, Axe and Gillette were the most recalled once, and Gillette commercials had been a great influencer when buying shaving products. However, few of the men could recall having been exposed to any grooming products commercials or advertising in recent time. Statistics from Yankelovich Think Tank showed that 63% of US men feel that the way men are portrayed in advertising is completely out of touch with how men really are, and that they find the commercials funny but not relevant. This finding was partly in line with mine. Not being able to identify themselves with the men in the commercials was not an evident concern for the Norwegian men interviewed, however, several recalled the Axe commercials and thought they were funny, but they 73

74 did not buy into the message about the Axe effect attracting good-looking ladies. Even though they recalled the commercials and thought they were funny they had a negative attitude towards the products. Most of the men claimed to watch very little television and did not read magazines on a regular basis, but spent a lot of time reading online newspapers on a daily basis. Two of the men claimed to have bought hair wax from Define because when standing in front of the store isle Define was the brand recalled from commercials. On a general basis most of them claimed not to be influenced by commercials or printed media, but rather in store communication, especially the advice from the sellers in store seems of be great importance in regards to what products men chooses to purchase. The advice from in store personnel seems to be viewed as a reliable source by most of the men, especially hairdressers and pharmacists yield a high level of trust. The reason why I bought this was because I got it recommended from a hair dresser that I thought did a good job. She said you should use this product. At that time I used Renati, but she told met hat this one was better for my hair, so I bought it. JM24 Even though some of the men expresses that they would prefer men giving advice on skin care rather than women, they still agreed that in each case were a women in store has recommended them a skin care product, they have bought it. The in store personnel interviewed all agree that once they have the opportunity to recommend products, and especially in the cases were men feel a need for products but do not have the competence to chose himself, they end up buying everything recommended to them. Even though promotion would require a keener focus, my findings suggest that men are more influenced by the communication in-store provided by qualified personnel, rather than mass communication like advertising and commercials. It is worth mentioning that we often are unconsciously influenced by commercials and advertising, something that will be discussed under Further research. However, my findings points to men s decision making process being more influenced by the actual product and it s features, as well as external sources: mothers, girlfriends, wives, and as far as promotion go: in-store personnel. 74

75 8 Key findings The key findings in this research paper, namely: Involvement & knowledge, Notions of masculinity, Hairstyle and identity, False loyalty, Avoidance of feminine behavior, Significant females, and Importance of quality were the factors that had the most significant influence on the men s consumer decision making and the findings under each of these headlines help explain what drives Norwegian men s consumer behavior when buying and using grooming products. The degree of involvement and knowledge the men had with the different products had great influence on their purchase behavior. Involvement was closely linked to personal relevance, and affected the time, money and effort spent on the decisionmaking process. Shampoo and body wash were as previous research states low involvement products, whit low personal relevance, where very little effort was put into choosing products, and the men often used whatever they found in the shower at home. With high involvement products such as deodorant, skin care and hair styling the premiumisation trend discovered by Euromonitor was evident and supermarkets were viewed negatively and as a low quality distributor of these products. All the men lacked knowledge in regards to skin care products, low perceived behavioral control was therefore the main reason why purchase failed and attitudes were negative. A high level of knowledge due to experience was found in deodorant and hair-styling products, resulting in higher confidence in purchase. Notions of masculinity refer to the gap that exists between previous research and how the market in general is being capitalized today versus the interviewees perception, attitude and preferences. Most of the men had negative attitudes against stereotypical male packaging and masculine product scents, as black and dark blue packaging and strong scents represented low quality and products that were harsh on their sensitive and dry skin. Motivation for buying and using grooming products was as previous literature mostly states, linked to actual, utilitarian needs like dry skin or good hygiene. However a good hairstyle was of great importance to all the men as it reflects self-identity and helped them create a desired image and over-all look. 75

76 Most of the products the men bought and used were routine purchases, and the same products were chosen over and over, not due to a high level of satisfaction, or deep brand values, but to simplify the purchasing process, which was seen as being a hassle. The men s in store behavior was characterized by being determined on finding the same product as they always use, and there was little interaction with the products on the shelves, and purchase behavior was purely utilitarian. This phenomenon is referred to as false loyalty. Avoidance of feminine behavior was evident in regards to grooming products and being afraid of appearing feminine stalled purchase. The subjective norm as explained by Ajzen (1991) was therefore a large influencer on attitude. In regards to this they felt uncomfortable in perfumeries, preferred for men labeling and did not want to own and use too many grooming products, in order to maintain a masculine image and avoid being judged by others. Significant females like mothers, girlfriends and wives had the greatest influence on the men s grooming purchases as they were often the introducers and initiators for more sophisticated grooming use, this was mostly evident with respectively hairstyling and skin care. This study also implies that men s purchase behavior change as they mature and become fathers, becoming more confident in who they are and less concerned with the subjective norm or standards of society. However, my findings imply that with age comes a change in whom one interacts with, and that interestingly the man as a tribe member is evident in some examples of this study. However, this topic needs further research. 9 Marketing implications The Norwegian grooming market is dominated by notions of masculine stereotypes and the industry lacks knowledge in regards to men s behavior when buying grooming products. Marketers need to better understand the diversity of the market, in 76

77 order to better serve this segment. This study helps to better understand drivers of behavior in regards to men and the grooming category and therefore provides interesting insights for marketers in regards to developing products and marketing strategies that better fulfill men s needs and thereby serving this segment better. The marketing implications presented aims explicitly at addressing the second part of the problem statement: how can the cosmetic industry better capitalize the grooming market for men? Marketers should aim at increasing men s involvement with shampoo and body wash and communicate the importance of men using for men shampoo and body wash rather than what they find in the shower at home. As discussed earlier involvement is said to increase with products that the consumer finds of high personal relevance, one way to increase involvement with shampoo is therefore to focus on attributes of importance to the men. Like for example how shampoo is the first step in creating the desired hair-style (which we know is of great importance) or tapping into the number one concern of many men: hair-loss. According to Euromonitor the strongest increase in men s hair care in 2012 was registered by L Oréals ElVital shampoo brand for men, indicating that men are becoming more involved and aware of using for men shampoo. Forecast state that the leading competitors in mass men s grooming are expected to invest more funds in offering a wider selection of men s skin care as well as grooming products in general, through grocery retail channels. The companies looking to select a wider product range should be aware of the fact that men need to understand why they need different products, as well as overcoming the barrier of men viewing having many products as feminine behavior, something they strongly want to avoid. Men are also not used to a complex grooming regime, and they are generally not fond of grooming usage taking up too much time. Mass-products sold through supermarkets should be aware of the negative attitude some men have towards the quality of products sold in supermarkets, and be aware of the premiumisation trend in Norway, mass brands should therefore strive at providing 77

78 men with perceptions of good quality and value for money and stress the benefits of convenient shopping, which is one of the main advantages. In communicating with men, marketers will also benefit from being informative and teach men about their skin/hair and the products, especially with skin care were involvement is high, but knowledge is low. Teaching men about their skin and increasing knowledge about products can make them feel more comfortable in the searching process and providing them with a higher perception of behavioral control, making purchase more likely. Skin care with anti-aging ingredients is predicted to increase during the forecast period, under both premium brands and mass brands. Providers of anti-wrinkle should focus on the importance of prevention and pro-active use, and keep focus away from aging, as the word aging is un-motivating, due to men s concern that anti-age use means: accepting getting old. The popularity of natural grooming lines for men is also expected to increase, and even though few of the men were concerned with the product being natural or ecological, the word natural was motivating due to notions of mildness. Some of the men had also been introduced to natural grooming products through their wives and girlfriends, and was therefore more knowledgeable and positive towards using natural products. Natural skin care for women has become a major industry, and according to Euromonitor, men s grooming trends often mimic women s. The industry should therefore keep an eye out for natural men s grooming products, most likely there are future potential market opportunities in this segment. Quality was very important in regards to deodorant, skin care and hairstyling, and the men were willing to pay a higher price for premium products. It is important for marketers to understand that price reflects quality, and that for these products a low price strategy might not be beneficial. However, in regards to shampoo and body wash, discounts and in store communication should be used to induce trials. My findings indicate that 2-in 1 products might have a confusing market positioning. From the marketers perspective it is viewed as a convenient product for men to use as shampoo and body wash, at home as well as at the gym. However the men in this 78

79 study saw it as a product meant for their gym bag, and had negative perceptions of using the same product for their hair and body in the shower at home. Marketers of 2- in1 products should either emphasize the 2-in 1 product as an essential for the gym bag, or stress the product being of high quality to both their hair and body. However, changing attitude is difficult, and playing on those notions that already exist, might be more beneficial. The discussed parameter false loyalty is important for marketers, because it shows that loyalty is not associated with deep brand values, and if he is influenced by e.g. his girlfriend or another reliable source, it is very likely that he will switch brand. Focus should therefore be on building strong and favorable brand relationships with the consumers. False loyalty also indicates that companies should be careful with changing the packaging on existing products, as this can cause great frustration if they cannot find the product they usually buy, resulting in buying a different brand. Another factor that was linked to false loyalty was the fact that men simplified the purchasing process by always setting their mind to the same product. The combination of false loyalty and a utilitarian shopping process makes attracting men s attention in supermarkets, and get them to buy anything else than what they had set their mind to, very challenging. One idea for providers selling through supermarkets is to use promotion campaigns were qualified sales personnel is promoting the products. Like for instance the brand Define, who sell their products through supermarkets but position their products as being developed in collaboration with Norwegian hairdressers, could benefit from this approach. Men often see specialist as reliable sources, having them teach men about the products available in supermarkets could raise the amount of products bought as well as induce trials. Attractive packaging was predicted by Euromonitor to be one of the sales drivers for men s grooming. However, what is attractive packaging? My findings suggest that in regards to all grooming products, the industry could benefit from not only offering men products with a traditional notion of masculinity such as a strong masculine scent and dark masculine colored packaging. Marketers that understand the nuances that exist amongst men today, and avoid stereotyping, 79

80 could benefit greatly. Just like all women do not prefer pink and purple, all men do not prefer black and dark blue. Neutral packaging like white, turquoise and green in addition to more neutral scents were preferred amongst the men interviewed, and creates an opportunity to serve the market better. Labeling of products should optimally be short and descriptive, avoiding difficult terminologies that challenge men s intelligence and knowledge. Clearly labeling For Men is beneficial in order to avoid confusion. Norwegian men have a tendency of dry and sensitive skin, which is probably due to the long winters and dry winter climate. Developing products especially designed for Norwegian weather conditions, and communicating both through the package design and explicitly stating mildness, could motivate men to buy due to better serving their need. Companies that really understand the importance of hairstyle in regards to Norwegian men, and how hairstyling products help create a desired self-image, could benefit greatly. At the same time the diversity within preferred hairstyles and hair texture must not be ignored, and product lines should emphasize tailoring products in regards to different hair textures. Companies should also evaluate communicating men s skin care products to significant women like mothers, girlfriends and wife s, as they are the main trial inducers and influencers to more sophisticated product use. 80

81 Conclusion, Limitations and Further Research 10 Conclusion This thesis aimed at identifying drivers of men s consumer behavior when evaluating, purchasing and using men s grooming products, a consumer group and product category that has been given little attention in the field of research. And by this contribute to theoretical insights as well as implication on how the industry can better capitalize the Norwegian men s grooming market. The study was conducted by developing a conceptual model based on consumer behavior theory and previous studies in regards to the topic, in addition to performing in-depth interviews, in-store observations of Norwegian men and interviewing in-store personnel. The problem statement aimed to be answered were the following: What characterizes the consumer behavior of men when evaluating, purchasing and using men s grooming products? From these insights, how can the industry better capitalize the grooming market for men? The results from the data collected suggest that the level of involvement, experience and knowledge the men have with the different products have great impact on the decision-making process. High involvement products such as hairstyling, skin care and deodorant yielded a more thorough decision-making process than shampoo and body wash, which generated lower involvement. Hairstyling and deodorant were products where the men felt more confident in informational search and decisionmaking, due to a higher level of knowledge and experience. With skin care on the other hand the men felt unsecure and lack of knowledge stalled information search and purchase. Marketers should therefore focus on teaching men about their skin and skin care products, in addition to increase involvement with shampoo and body wash. Tapping into matters that are important to the men, like for instance shampoo being the first step in creating a great hairstyle, could be a way to do this. Due to lack of experience and knowledge, skin care is most prone to external influence, and in line with previous research, significant women like mothers, girlfriends and wives has the biggest influence on the men s skin care choices, and are 81

82 often influencers of more sophisticated product usage. Communicating skin-care products for men, to significant women was therefore suggested. One of the key findings from the data analysis is that most of the grooming purchases done by the men are routine purchases as the same products are chosen over and over, this was not due to a high level of satisfaction, but rather a way to simplify the purchasing process, and therefore referred to as false loyalty. Marketers should focus on building stronger brand relationships with men, in order to secure deeper lying brand values, creating loyalty. Another important external influence on decision, purchase and use, is the products scent and packaging design. My results were contradicting to previous research and challenge the traditional notion of masculinity that is evident in today s grooming market. A mild and neutral scent in addition to more neutral colors like white, green and turquoise are preferred over strong masculine scents and colors such as black and dark blue. This is due to perceptions about strong masculine scents and dark colors being harsh on the skin and of low quality- attributes that are important for purchase. In addition, men want their perfume to be their defining scent and viewed too much interference of other scents as negative. These findings are important for product development and provide market opportunities for companies wanting to serve the men s segment better. For men labeling is important in regards to high involvement products, in order to make sure that the product is for them, and to avoid feminine behavior associated with unisex or women s products. The avoidance of feminine behavior is also evident in regards to the number of products used, and in line with previous research owning or using too many grooming products is seen as feminine behavior, hence behavior they want to avoid. Companies looking to develop or innovate their grooming range should keep this in mind, as extensive lines might generate negative attitudes. High quality is generally important for high involvement products, and supermarkets generated negative attitude in regards to this, in addition a premiumisation trend is developing in Norway in regards to men s grooming and communicating quality and avoid low price strategies was therefore suggested. Purchasing the right hairstyling product is of great importance as the right hairstyling helps men create a desired self-image. Hair styling was also the only product were a more hedonic purpose was found. Premium products and guidance from hairdressers, who were viewed as a reliable source of information, was often preferred. 82

83 The study implies however that men s grooming usage in general is utilitarian and linked to actual needs like e.g. dry winter skin due to the Norwegian climate. There was a major difference in the men s behavior when they were teenagers and up until now, as maturity made them more confident in their choices and not so much guided by others. This was especially evident with the men who were fathers, and therefore in line with previous research. The perspective of the consumer as a tribe member was also evident in some examples as consumption was steered by belonging to a certain group and defined by the products they absolutely did not want (e.g. Axe) as opposed to what they did want. The shifting perspective towards the consumer as a tribe member is very interesting for further research. Limitations and further research The conclusions in this report are based on the respondents' subjective opinions and experiences, which means that they are not necessarily applicable to other men s consumer behavior when buying grooming products, making generalization impossible. The sample is small and not randomly chosen, which leads to restrictions related to validity. It is also possible that some aspects of consumption are not being measured by using the conceptual framework demonstrated in this paper, which weakens the reliability. The fact that many of the respondents were friends and acquaintances was kept in mind as I tried to perform the interviews without being too biased. Due to the topic being somewhat sensitive for men to talk about, there is a concern that this sensitivity increases when the examinees know the interviewer, weakening the reliability of the findings. My background as a skin therapist should also be pointed out, my knowledge about the subject and direct experience with men and grooming provided me with the benefit of being able to ask the right questions in e.g. the in-depth interviews, but it can also potentially increase bias. This report aimed at increasing knowledge and understanding in regards to men s consumer behavior when evaluating, buying and using grooming products, and the report can be used as a starting point for further research on this theme. Further research should test the framework created and quantify the results so that the external 83

84 validity increases, providing greater opportunities for generalization and opportunities for market segmentation. Researching younger men would also be interesting as the consumer as a tribe member is expected to be even more evident with younger men. This is based on the stories told by the men interviewed of how their behavior was different when they were young and showing of their products in the school gym wardrobe. Due to a limited amount of space, this thesis has not taken any financial matters into account and the managerial implications are therefore only based on the findings from the study. Whether they would yield return on investment and be financially sound, is not taken into consideration. This is an obvious weakness, and the managerial implications only serve as a guideline for marketing opportunities and suggestions on how to better capitalizing the market. Because the grooming category is quite large and diverse and due to this thesis trying to shed light on the whole consumer decision making process, narrowing down the amounts of products and focus could provide deeper insights for marketing managers, hence tailored product strategies. An interesting field would be to explore scent and packaging design, due to these parameters being important drivers of behavior in regards to men s grooming. Further research should focus on these variables in order to make more accurate recommendations in regards to different segments. Because the way we response to stimulus like scent and color often is unconscious and because brand knowledge often interfere with our preferences, a neuromarketing experiment with manipulated packaging could be successful in better researching this matter. 84

Information search for the research protocol in IIC/IID 1 Medical Library, 2013 Library services for students working with the research protocol and thesis (hovedoppgaven) Open library courses: http://www.ntnu.no/ub/fagside/medisin/medbiblkurs

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