Welcome Guest! If you are already a member of the BMW MOA, please log in to the forum in the upper right hand corner of this page. Check "Remember Me?" if you wish to stay logged in.

We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMWMOA forum provides.
Why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on
the forum, the club magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMWMOA offers?Want to read the MOA monthly magazine for free? Take a 3-month test ride of the magazine; check here for details.

If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You will need to join the MOA before you can post: click this register link to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

NOTE. Some content will be hidden from you. If you want to view all content, you must register for the forum if you are not a member, or if a member, you must be logged in.

Not to continue the Hijack but...the 914 & 914/6 never received much acclaim , {IMO} because of the VW connection ? But I always liked them...particularly the /6 of course !
Correct me if I'm wrong but they actually handled better than the 911 ? I only drove one once...so I'm no expert. Drove a "71" Carrera RSR once as well.....WoW!

Not to even further continue the hijack but... yes, the 914s handled better than the 911s. Basically because of the weight distribution due to the mid-engine concept. And of, course, the snooty Porsche purists snubbed them, because of the VW connection. But even in the stock form with the 2.0L 110hp flat six, the 914/6 ate the 2.2L 911 for lunch , unless you had the "S" version with 50 hp more than the 914.
Porsche had a plan to remedy this with a 916, which was shown at the Paris Auto Show and then pulled just before introduction. 20 were built. This would be the one. But I would settle for my GT back also. Just 250 made.

Not to even further continue the hijack but... yes, the 914s handled better than the 911s. Basically because of the weight distribution due to the mid-engine concept. And of, course, the snooty Porsche purists snubbed them, because of the VW connection. But even in the stock form with the 2.0L 110hp flat six, the 914/6 ate the 2.2L 911 for lunch , unless you had the "S" version with 50 hp more than the 914.
Porsche had a plan to remedy this with a 916, which was shown at the Paris Auto Show and then pulled just before introduction. 20 were built. This would be the one. But I would settle for my GT back also. Just 250 made.

but to the OP...tools for the job. If you don't have a low range torque wrench,
you might consider getting one. The torque spec on the pan bolts feels crazy
weak in the hand. I found it real easy to over do them if not using the torque
wrench. IIRC (and I don't think I do), the torque is 6 ftlbs??

Gerald P
The last thing I want to be is just like everyone else...
1985 R80RT
1969 Sport Fury Convertible

but to the OP...tools for the job. If you don't have a low range torque wrench,
you might consider getting one. The torque spec on the pan bolts feels crazy
weak in the hand. I found it real easy to over do them if not using the torque
wrench. IIRC (and I don't think I do), the torque is 6 ftlbs??

Thanks...I do have a low range torque wrench and will be using it wherever applicable.
I hope to get my new tires on this weekend as well as cleaning and detailing those hard to reach (unless the wheels are off) areas. The wheels themselves will take quite a bit of time, I'm sure.

While the wheels are off I plan on packing some fresh grease into the bearings provided they feel smooth...if not, it's new bearings.
Any tips or hints on greasing the old bearings?

Thanks...I do have a low range torque wrench and will be using it wherever applicable.
I hope to get my new tires on this weekend as well as cleaning and detailing those hard to reach (unless the wheels are off) areas. The wheels themselves will take quite a bit of time, I'm sure.

While the wheels are off I plan on packing some fresh grease into the bearings provided they feel smooth...if not, it's new bearings.
Any tips or hints on greasing the old bearings?

Thanks.

Remove the seals and replace with new (purchase from Max's - around $6 each). almost required to replace even when just greasing as you need to force them out to inspect and will almost always damage when removing.

Look closely at each of the outer races (cups) for any pitting. and remove all old dried up grease, etc.

Look at the rollers of the inner race unit (the cone) by thoroughly cleaning. then inspect each roller for any pitting.

One thing NOT to do is what was popular as a joke for fun, is to use an air gun and "spin" the bearing using air pressure while holding the bearing in your hand. Could explode! Blowing out is OK, just don't allow it to spin.

If you need bearings, Max's for me was actually less expensive than the local bearing stores. -- And I live in the community where the tapered roller bearing was invented by Timken!

When greasing with fresh grease, the old mechanic's method is to put a blob of grease in the palm of one hand, and then thoroughly work the grease into all the inner spaces of the cone with the other hand holding the bearing and pushing and working it (neading) into the blob of grease.

Optional because some people disagree on this, but: I always put more grease into the bearing area than just on the bearings. My reasoning is because that is what I was taught years ago, but it also helps keep dirt and any moisture that may leak in from the seals away from the bearings. If you grease this way every couple of years, those bearing should last hundreds of thousands of miles - actually, never wear out!

One last thing. Inspect the surface where the inner lip of the seal rides on. Be sure it is clean and smooth. In my opinion, it doesn't hurt to take some 600 to 1,000 grit wet-or-dry with a little solvent (like kerosene or even paint thinner) and lightly "polish" the surface. If that item has a deeper groove worn in it, you may want to replace, or at least see if seal (or spacer) can be located a little further in or out so that the new seal has a new location where it can ride. Be sure to lubricate seal when installing - helps to allow it to slide into location with less possibility of "grabbing" and "rolling". If seal has a spring on inner seal as some do, be sure not to damage or accidentally pull it out unknowingly.

Making Progress

One month to the day...

Most of you know what's involved with resurrecting on of these fine machines so I will not bore you with any more details...

This morning it was 39 degrees, so for kicks I went out to the garage, set the "enricher" (say choke) at full, opened the fuel petcocks, turned on the key and hit the starter button. Within two seconds... it was running! I am not surprised, but I am amazed since I have not yet touched the carburetors.

I have some more cleaning and polishing to do, but it is progressing very nicely. I found crash bars that are in better condition and am looking for a set of near perfect peanut style rocker covers... cuz I like the look.

Oh well...the bonding session I had planned did not happen today...but that's OK.
My wife surprised me with taking 1/2 day off work to spend my 60th BD cruising the backroads of northern MI enjoying the colors, then a movie and dinner. (I know what you're thinking, but, she does not ride, so taking the /7 was not an option)

Hope the rain stops for the weekend, and I can take the time away from work...we need to bond, and I want to get some riding time in.