installed our on 2001 4.0 and loved the performance improvement. it tightened the handling right up and introduced some oversteer which I am ok with. if it was for the wife only, I wouldn't do it as she would spin herself right into the ditch!

Any thicker/stiffer sway bar will limit off road ability while connected, however you can simply unbolt them and tie them up out of the way to disconnect them and then your WJ will flex like Arnold at a strong-man competition. You can also purchase commercially made quick disconnects which make it a simple pin pull to disconnect rather than unbolting. Personally I don't mind spending five minutes disconnecting rather than spending (what I believe to be) too much money on those.

My Addco does not rub on the cover at all. That is only an issue if you have a larger cover I thought. And the only times I've heard of it ripping out stock mounts was when incorrect link length was used.

Also why not just disconnect offroad? (Not trying to pick on you, genuinely asking) Of the time spent on road, my Addco makes a ton of difference, but offroad I agree it limits flex a ton, which is why I just unbolt the links from the bar before getting on the trail.

Unbolting links is not something a person that spends a lot of time offroad would want to do. You can simply use JKS discos on the back as well as the front. I adapted a set of JKS discos to the back the day I installed my Addco bar. Now after 3 years of extensive trail use I just disconnect the drivers side. That lets the rear flex enough to coil bind on the stuffed side and an unseated coil on the drooped side.

About the mounting area cracks.....Link length has a small effect as the link lever moves either side of horizontal, but even if the lever starts out in it's optimum position the 1" addco bar is so stiff it will flex the thin tin in the mount area before it twists very much in torsion. If you use it offroad the Addco bar will lift a wheel in twistys or when one wheel runs over a decent sized rock. That stress the heck out of the link mount area no matter the link lengths.

So if a person mainly drives on pavement it can take a long time for the tin to fatigue and crack. But if you have to repeatedly over an uneven area of pavement or if you drive even mild trails any length link will flex the thin tin the mount is bolted to till it metal fatigues and cracks all the way around the mount. To prevent the cracks I welded on an angle iron stiffener so the stress is spread, many people just use a backing plate to spread the stress..

The simple cure for that problem is just disconnect one side, zero flopping that way. Also with one side discoed you will get as much or more flex with an Addco bar as the OEM bar connected. Having said that IF I had it to do over I wouldn't buy an Addco rear bar, it is to stiff to work well on pavement even with my solid front bar. It tends to lift the weight off the inside rear wheel when you power out of a turn. I think a bar for the rear of a WJ shouldn't be any larger than the OEM bar if the front bar is the hollow bar and only about 1/8" larger if the Jeep has the solid front bar.

I mean the way the body wants to flop on off camber
I've seen 40 deg on my incline meter, and it still felt stable with rear bar and front disco'd.
With the rear off, the body flops to the side too easy for my tastes.

I was thinking about going with an upgraded rear sway bar. I have the RC 4" lift it comes with the blocks to lower the sway bar to correct the length will that work with the 1" addco swat bar? I dont see why it wouldn't but just making sure.

I was thinking about going with an upgraded rear sway bar. I have the RC 4" lift it comes with the blocks to lower the sway bar to correct the length will that work with the 1" addco swat bar? I dont see why it wouldn't but just making sure.

I was thinking about going with an upgraded rear sway bar. I have the RC 4" lift it comes with the blocks to lower the sway bar to correct the length will that work with the 1" addco swat bar? I dont see why it wouldn't but just making sure.

I have the same kit and am using the blocks too. I thought I would try just swapping the bushings on the stock bar and it really helped. Best part was that it only cost me $18.

I was thinking about going with an upgraded rear sway bar. I have the RC 4" lift it comes with the blocks to lower the sway bar to correct the length will that work with the 1" addco swat bar? I dont see why it wouldn't but just making sure.

Some food for thought. In a perfect world....The links or links and spacer should be at least long enough for the link and lever to form a 90 degree angle. Where that ends up varies with lift amount.

The catch is..... that may limit droop. If you give it some thought droop is the sum of the length of the lever and link. It's really not quite that because the sway bar will hit the lower coil bucket before it is fully vertical. So bottom line, an extra 1" of link length is an extra inch of droop.

Even that has a catch, the bar is mounted low, so if you lengthen the links to the point the bar is hanging down below horizontal with the ground and below the axle tube the lever ends and links will end up dragging through the rocks. So I have my links set so the levers are horizontal with the ground.