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132 1-.. 1 ---- & -' Elflgl If•-Jomb Bottom of both sides -cull .-1. ..-1-- PL 1- 111 11 i I I -- Litle,board Join,-41 -1 - 4 1 142451:*.- .11MullionJ Left side Joint -*p!S 146,8 78'-0• I 1_1:_i'. i . -1_1. - 511 courges 5 1 /1111 Fig. 2.-The sides are laid out bottom-to-bottom. Check marks indicate openings to be cut out. (one of them large), a jar of Pullman-green paper down to your drawing board and simply paint, a small can of varnish, brushes or spray copy, from Fig. 1, the sections indicated in Fig. equipment, transfers, turpentine for cleaning 2 (except, of course, dimensions and notes). brushes, scissors and penknife, a good model- Make these sections bottom to bottom on your makers' knife, a strip of window glass, trans- drawing, as in Fig. 2. You may scale the diparent celluloid, a sheet of dime-store con- mensions if you wish, but as Fig. 1 is to 3.5 mm. struction paper, and some 00 sandpaper., scale, it is easier to make a "tick strip" and use There's nothing expensive or hard to get on it as at Fig. 3. The "tick strip" used by archi- this list. The rivet wheel and punch were de- tects is merely a strip of paper having one scribed in the January 1941 issue but for the straight edge. Lay it on the drawing to be benefit of those who came into the game since copied and mark off all the vertical lines. Lay that time and do not have that issue, they are the strip on your bond paper and make a pencil shown here again ( Fig. 4, page 133). The rivet dot just over each mark on the tick strip. Then wheel is simply a flat gear wheel from an old clock or mechanical toy, with a handle on it. It is used by running it on the back of the If paper, with a blotter under the paper, as later 1 described. As to the spacing of the teeth of the • wheel, rivet spacings vary and you will notice several different spacings on this car. However, while several wheels having different tooth spacings will help get a more completely authentic job, I find that one wheel with rivet 11111-1111-lilI-111 + Paper tick strip Original drawing 1 1 11 1 i 11111.-111'IIII'll'LII--111 11•. 11 "\ • \1:4 Fig. 3. teeth spaced slightly under Mo" apart is usually enough, since nobody counts the darn rivets tick off, in the same manner, the horizontal anyway. Or do they? Suit yourself. The punch can be bought as a taper point" lines, all the way across the paper, then, using . from a manufacturer or can be made by drill_ the dots for vertical lines, draw these in, stoping a slightly oversize hole in the end of a %" ping them at the confining horizontal lines. Use dowel, then coating about three-fourths of the a T square and a triangle for this work. eye end of a large needle, eye and all, heavily with cement, fixing it into the hole and letting it set. Scribing: Now take up your paper, thumbtack the large Notice first of all that the sun-room windows blotter (or a piece cut from it) to your board; run up into the letterboard, being higher than lay out a sheet of carbon paper face lip, then the others; also that in Fig. 2 the sashes of lay on the bond paper. Press a thumb tack into these windows are shown while no sashes are each corner. Sharpen up the end of one of the shown in the case of other windows. The rea- nail files on a piece of sandpaper. The sharpson is that the sun room has double-sash win- ened edge should not cut the bond paper but dows, the outside one being set flush with the should make a good, sharp line. Test it. After face of the sides. We're going to forget about properly lining up your bond paper, and using the inner sash for the time being; its cross-rail · the T square and triangle, scribe all the lines will be represented by adding a strip of paper with the file. back of the glass of the outer sash. Drawing. To begin the sides, tack your sheet of bond lines. Using the dots, draw in all the horizontal THE MODEL RAILROADER When you take up the bond paper and turn it over you will find the entire carside design clearly presented by the scribed lines. To form the windowsill molding, take another