The Biggest Myths

Many women can't shake their popular—but patently false—beliefs about skin. We reveal the truth.

Feed a fever, starve a cold—or is it the other way around? The more anti-aging products you pile on, the better—or is it the opposite? Just as myths about curing the common cold proliferate, so does lore about aging skin. "The science is constantly evolving, so it is almost impossible to keep the facts straight," says dermatologist Doris J. Day, clinical assistant professor of dermatology at New York City Medical Center. Making matters more confusing, many women follow the misguided advice of their mothers, friends, and facialists who aren't up to speed. As dermatologist Heidi A. Waldorf, associate clinical professor at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City, says, "The only way to make positive changes in your skin is to educate yourself about what works and what doesn't."

#1 Cleansers with anti-aging ingredients don't work because you rinse them off right away.

Some anti-aging cleansers—particularly those containing glycolic acid—can actually improve skin tone and texture with just a little bit of contact.
Don't rush through your time at the sink, though. "To guarantee absorption, massage your cleanser into your skin for about a minute before rinsing it off," Day says. You could also alternate your regular cleanser with premoistened cleansing wipes. "Many of them contain anti-aging ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids, and they're a great alternative since you don't rinse them off at all," says Jeannette Graf, former assistant clinical professor of dermatology at New York University Medical Center.

#2 Home microdermabrasion is no different than a grainy scrub.

Besides the fact that they're both exfoliants, microdermabrasion and scrubs have little in common. "Grainy scrubs are often made up of coarse, rough particles, which can be too harsh for sensitive skin," Day says. "Microdermabrasion kits are just as—if not more—effective, but they have fine, even particles and are much less aggravating." Plus, the kits often contain soothing, hydrating ingredients.

#3 If using glycolic peels or microdermabrasion kits twice a week is good, then every day is better.

Yes, you can have too much of a good thing. "Using these products too often might make your skin feel smoother temporarily, but it can be very irritating in the long run," Waldorf says. And the more you do it, the harder it will be to restore your skin's health. "These products work only if your skin has time to recover in between. If not, it will lose its protective barrier and become weak and dull," Day says. Even if a kit suggests daily use, "I still tell patients to use them no more than twice weekly—your skin simply doesn't need it," Waldorf says.

#4 Over-the-counter creams can't build collagen in the skin.

Actually, over-the-counter retinol (along with prescription retinoids) is able to increase the collagen in your skin by promoting the regrowth of new cells at the skin's deepest level. And now there's news that some other over-the-counter products have been proven to stimulate collagen, too. "We used to think that peptide particles were too big to penetrate, but now some companies attach them to other molecules, such as lipids and liposomes, that are able to get through," Waldorf says. The same is true for antioxidants. "Scientists have discovered ways to attach them to liposomes, which can easily penetrate the skin," Graf says. The only downside: "It takes much longer to build collagen with an over-the-counter cream than it does with a prescription," Waldorf says.