The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit

Drake's was one of the first menswear brands that really inspired me, back in the days when I'd sit in Michael Drake's study going through old decorative art books, dissecting patterns.

Drake's managed to combine craft and style, deep tradition and wearable modernity, in a way that is still rare.

It is a very personal honour therefore, as this site approaches its 10-year anniversary, to have my name alongside Drake's.

Perhaps it is best thought of as a styling, though, rather than a collaboration.

It comprises a full outfit - jacket, trousers, shirt, tie and handkerchief - where I've selected one of my favourite materials for each, creating a look that I love, and is rather different to the classic Drake's aesthetic.

Each item is available in stock in Drake's stores, and we will be hosting a made-to-order event on Wednesday this week for anyone that wants to tweak their own version. (Or indeed order any other MTO.)

It’s not a question of that Johnny, but whether it’s available as cut lengths, for tailors. Mills only offer some cloth this way, as they have to support it with stock and sell in small quantities. A lot is only available for bulk order, for RTW manufacture.

Dear Simon, I like cavalry twill, too, but I would like to know why YOU like it, and if you would object to indigo cavalry twill? PS: What do you mean by “tucking in” the back blade – where would one tuck it? If you don’t tuck it, where is it?

Hi Yosef. I’ve actually just confirmed that the cloth is exclusive to Drake’s for the moment, so no possibility of bespoke I’m afraid. The shirt and trouser cloth are available though – just getting codes for those

When you say you would change the length, I presume you mean to longer? I have been thinking of ordering one of Drake’s Harris tweed jackets (I live in sheffield and adding in travel to London for potential bespoke becomes prohibitive) but the jackets look rather on the shorter side – which I found rather surprising considering their aesthetic. I guess my question is whether Drake’s jackets do now feature a shorter length and generally Simon what length measurement you look for in your jackets (over 30″?). MOre on topic – I was thinking of cavalry twill trousers, so these will do nicely

The thing that has always stopped me buying jackets from Drakes is the height of the gorge/notch on the lapel. I know that’s the trend now, but I wish they would lower it a little to give slightly more classic proportions. This jacket seems to have the same problem, though perhaps the MTO process would solve that.

While you are making some elaborated suggestions, which I am thankful for, I’m surprised that you have not found out yet that there is no such thing as “getting it wrong”, as there is no right or wrong, because everyone has a different taste.

Hi Simon, This is truly a great initiative! This is a very “chic” outfit! And it reminds me of two previous posts. Interestingly enough, in the first it was already about you and Michael Drake musing over different senses of style! See here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2012/02/michael-drake-on-style-english-worn-by-the-french.html The second was about your “levels of formality”. See here and more specifically the level “5-6 Casual jacket, smart trousers”: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/05/seven-levels-of-formality.html To me this type of outfit is possibly the most cosmopolitan of all in today’s world. And yet, it happens to be also the most exacting to put together! Since a good amount of knowledge is always required to get it right, while implying a certain amount of playfulness from the wearer. An excellent collaboration, Simon! John

Simon, I have been following you since Lodger–the beginning. You have taught so many of us so much. Now it feels like you are selling something twice it week. Is this the new direction, ‘bespoke hawking?’

For what it’s worth, I really love the collaborations, mostly because they tend to fulfill a very specific gap in the market, or at least offer something very unique. Definitely glad it’s not part of a general shift towards retail though, as that was the beginning of the end for ASW

Thank you very much for all the great work you have been doing for almost ten years now! May I suggest you could write in the forthcoming times a a comprehensive, step-by-step book on “Permanent Style : Dressing for a (more) casual era?”.

It could address the topics of Formal Wear and Casual Wear. lt could also expand some of your original concepts (the scale of formality and its steps for instance).

I’ve got to say, Simon, that I love you (personally), and I love your work. You have probably answered about 20 of my sartorial questions over the past few years: and I’m talking about my own selfish posts to figure out whether something is a good idea, how to care for a specific garment, or how to store something. My understanding is that you answer each post, personally (when you do answer – which has been always, for me), you take other peoples’ views into account, you write negative (honest) reviews when you don’t like something about a tailor, a process, or a product, and you allow negative posters to have their say.

I really like that you’ve curated some things for us to consider. I have to admit, these things are often too expensive for me personally. I like REALLY GOOD bargains, and unbelievably high quality garments. I like paying $200 for a $5000 jacket (which I often do), and you couldn’t possibly offer those kinds of discounts to your readers – it just wouldn’t be cost-effective – the raw materials cost more than that.

My point is that you are using your platform for good: the people who read this blog are into “permanent style” – clothing and accessories that will hold up, and that are beautifully made.

Sometimes you offer these products to your readers – curated in a way that cuts through all the clutter of high-street marketers, and the hundreds and thousands of boutique shops around North America and Europe. In other words – we’re Dante and you’re Virgil, and I – for one – appreciate the tour.

A question regarding cashmere jackets: Should one hang them in a closet or fold them like knitwear as recommended by Luca Faloni on his website? Also, do you find that cashmere jackets shrink over time?

Hi Simon and best wishes for the new year. What do you think of the Drake’s Harris Tweed jackets in terms of make and style? Is it something you’d recommend for RTW? They have one in brown that brought your Caliendo to mind. Thank you,

Thanks. They’re very nice – high quality ready-to-wear. Made by Belvest, beautifully soft construction and nice distinct details like the patch ticket pocket. Cut to be a little shorter than traditional bespoke, but still longer than most RTW. Good length for casual trousers eg jeans

Thank you. More generally would you wear a brown jacket like this paired with gray flannels for a casual Friday office environment? I usually wear formal suits and ties four days a week and either a suit without a tie or a navy blazer/smart trouser combination on Fridays. I am exploring other alternatives. I find many people in the office don’t even wear a jacket on Fridays but as a senior member of the team I prefer to dress more formally.

Hi Simon, Interesting outfit, it’s one of those looks that almost seems like it doesn’t quite work but is all the better for that fact. I think I would have gone a slightly different shade of trouser myself, maybe more a stone than a putty.

What do you mean when you describe the jacket front as “self-lining” I haven’t come across this term and a quick google yields nothing!

Quick question, do you know which taylor does Drake’s use in Italy? It seems to be a Neapolitan from the cut. Thanks for your content (and your latest guides) which are really something of great value!