A celebrity group was alongside the rose petal covered catwalk of the Couvent de Cordelier, including actress Beatrice Dalle, theatre star and jeans maker Lou Doillon, model Leonor Scherrer, Irish chanteuse Roisin Murphy and Bettina Graziani, the original model of the house's iconic white blouse.

Though embraced by the cool, hippest fashion gang that is French Vogue and by his fellow Italians, Tisci has witnessed a trans-Atlantic divide with U.S. retailers and editors less ecstatic about his partisans' claims. This collection will probably do little to change that.

Tisci is certainly capable of the arresting image, or a heroic view of women, with loose, floating see-through toilles over tight short dresses, part Grecian, or pagoda-shouldered warrior tops or really great jet-encrusted, mini and spiky boleros.

There's a tension about his fashion, made in things like stretch gabardine or paneled mastic. They are a demanding wear.

But one could not fault the perfumed setting, the organ and canticles pre-show music, the beautiful pearled, bodice dresses, the dark-eyed ethereal makeup or the beautiful casting, so the show itself had real moments of beauty. That much it achieved.

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