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Topic: Unicorn (Read 679 times)

Went up to try the Unicorn with George Hurley today. IMNSHO everything left of the North End is quite thin right now. The start to Unicorn, 100' left of the Thresher direct start, was quite thin. The little gully up to the second ledge didn't have any ice, just mossy ground as is usual. From the belay tree, the corner you use to get up on the slab to the big ledge had almost no ice on it at all. I was able to get up to the exposed bolt and start the move up onto the slab, but the slab was nothing but a snowy crust on top of rock, so I backed down. [sigh] Looking at the Unicorn corner itself from my vantage point, there was no ice at all on the right side of the corner. I've never seen it like that. It looks climbable, but there wouldn't be the normal stems so you would be climbing 50'+ of vertical ice with no rests. Certainly significantly harder than usual.

If you want to do it I suggest you walk around to the top and rap down...