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CA powered car, original bottom end, but with fresh headgasket and ARP studs. 143ks, and still has fairly decent compression 155-160 cold (new is 172) though as with all Nissan's it likes to pressurise the sump - I run dual catch cans to help this, top and and bottom end vented to atmo separately via baffled cans. Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets also fresh, a few seals been replaced around the place also, rockers, half moons etc, but some things still leak.
At the last event for the year, it blew a coolant line to the turbo and drained the radiator, no big deal as I was planning on changing out the T28 BB and going E85 on an externally gated GTX2860R and some 256 cams anyway (Just acquired the cams and already have the turbo). Still need external gate, injectors and to modify the manifold to take it all (turbo is T3 and vband rear so will need different manifold flange, dump, and intake).
Given I will be removing the manifold anyway, I considered removing the engine to replace the 28yr old hoses all over the place that are difficukt to get to otherwise and tidy up some of the loom/connectors which are also a bit worse for wear (race tape holding them on etc).
Engine also has minor front crank, and rear main seal leak - though I did replace the rear main when I did I the clutch, so could actually be higher up on the back of the motor as the half moons are notorious for leaking even though they are new, as are the rocker gaskets. Oh, also has a small weep from the speedo sensor on the box where the mounting surface was scored, has new extension housing seal but also appears to be maybe leaking from there, already has new upper seal around shifter etc and doesn't appear to be a breather issue.
So now I'm tossing up what to do.
1: Continue with turbo swap and retune, do nothing else., drive til it dies, ignore leaks, do things after it's dead.
2: Continue with turbo swap but pull motor and put fresh hoses in, fix leaking front and rear seals, do what I can for connectors, new water pump and accessory belts and clean up anything else obvious (Car already has new timing belt).
3: Pull motor, do all of the above but also freshen up the bottom end, just a basic Spool forged kit or something, but that means new headgaset and full disassembly etc. The Nissan has been let out also.
4: Acquire decent second hand forged CA, they do turn up, freshen up anything needed (I just mean seals/belts), put back in with new turbo setup, sell old motor running.
5: Pull motor, replace with freshened up or 2nd hand forged SR (probably blacktop for the VCT and being newer sensors). Probably wouldn't bother going through the hassle of a swap for a stock SR. This would mean buying different cams, ECU swap, different radiator, wiring work, better coilpacks (I have splitfires for the CA), dick around with cluster, change bell housing, not sure about clutch etc etc. Sell current motor running and all my CA shit.
The CA has been good to me and keeps me in a class I can be competitive in, but she is getting on in age and the boys and I are considering trying to do 5 rounds of a series next year, I'm thinking about what I can do in the off season to make next year easier. I am a jew on this car also (car is still 4 stud for example), the GT-R gets love and $$, The Sil makes do with second hand parts, shit from other silvia's/skylines a upgrades and DIY shenanigans
Kinda leaning towards 2 or 4. Though the extra mid range torque and response of the bigger SR would be great for track work - even if they do sound like shit and that's not up for debate.

Hey all,
Up for sale I have 5 oil filters brand spanking new. Cooper WZ 442. This is the Ryco Z442 equivalent.
Fits RB26 and to my knowledge fits CA18, Red top SR20 and RB25
But please check if you do not have a RB26 whether this will your application.
Price is $10 a filter don't be ripped buying them at $20 a pop at your local supercheap or repco. Buy all 5 and Ill throw in free postage.
Located Central Coast.

Hi guys, 3 charts attached to give an overview.
Curious as to the noticeable dip in torque as it builds to max torque. As the car does not have proper engine management, just a tuned rom with an SAFC II to assist, am I safe to assume this is just poor ignition tuning for those cells? There does not appear to be appreciable knock during WOT runs as I considered there may be a a knock issue at that point and the ECU i pulling timing.
CA18DET
Standard cams and gears.
GT2560/S15 T28BB.
RX-7 460cc Injectors.
Z32.
Walbro.
Usual bits like cooler, exhaust, pod etc.