Last winter was exceptional to me, I had mountains of odd capped honey.30 hives and normally use 600 kg winter sugar. I only bayed 50 kg sugar and give to all hives that honey.

In our winter problem is that bees cannot come out between October and Marsh. Winter was mercy. It was only 3 weeks period when out temp -30C. But bees could make cleansingflight in April, about one month later than normally.

They were all alive.

I put capped honey boxes over the cluster box. I followed the food consumption and added more boxes over the pile.

Honey frames are not so fat as winter fed frames. So their store was less than normal in the box.

I have been stupid when I dis not realize in former years to give extra honey for winter food.I let them rotten in my store room and then wax moth concured them....aaarrrrrggghhhhh

Last winter was exceptional to me, I had mountains of odd capped honey.30 hives and normally use 600 kg winter sugar. I only bayed 50 kg sugar and give to all hives that honey.

In our winter problem is that bees cannot come out between October and Marsh. Winter was mercy. It was only 3 weeks period when out temp -30C. But bees could make cleansingflight in April, about one month later than normally.

They were all alive.

I put capped honey boxes over the cluster box. I followed the food consumption and added more boxes over the pile.

Honey frames are not so fat as winter fed frames. So their store was less than normal in the box.

I have been stupid when I dis not realize in former years to give extra honey for winter food.I let them rotten in my store room and then wax moth concured them....aaarrrrrggghhhhh

,

yes yes yes --you are missing the whole point-feeding honey from dedicated white wax -virgin to broodclearing the supper so it can be put away for next seasons honey harvest-any first year keeper can put honey on and leave it on--but freeing up the dedicated supper with out loosing your white wax thats the pointmost cant keep a handle on this-they end up with a bunch of dark wax in there honey suppers and are always talking about freezing in garbage bags--I have whole building filled to the celling with honey suppers all white waxsuppers never are exposed to brood laying ----there are no wax moths in theses suppers -every season i have fresh start with white wax for my spring honey--i catch the first flow --i am not playing catch up with wax moth damageI fear its to late for you when it comes to this subject-you are raising fish bait :fishhit: not honey bees-free your self from this burden--- :loll: 8-) RDY-B

yes yes yes --you are missing the whole point-feeding honey from dedicated white wax -virgin to broodclearing the supper so it can be put away for next seasons honey harvest-any first year keeper can put honey on and leave it on

yes. After 50 y beekeeping it is easy to miss the point, what ever it is.

that white wax and brown wax brood is nonsense. Be flexiple when you nurse bees. You need not hang yoursef to all kinds of principals. Saving the earth and more minor issues

yes yes yes --you are missing the whole point-feeding honey from dedicated white wax -virgin to broodclearing the supper so it can be put away for next seasons honey harvest-any first year keeper can put honey on and leave it on

yes. After 50 y beekeeping it is easy to miss the point, what ever it is.

that white wax and brown wax brood is nonsense. Be flexiple when you nurse bees. You need not hang yoursef to all kinds of principals. Saving the earth and more minor issues

;) ill keep that in mind when i treat for varoa --comesee--- comesaw :? RDY-B

I am actually learning some interesting things here 8-) rdy-b; your descriptions are great. Perhaps I'll be giving excluders another chance after ignoring/condeming them for years, paticularly w/ white wax being the goal.

Not sure if this 'placement of honey super below broodnest' would work (or make sense) for colder regions but when bees are able to fly all winter it seems perfectly rational.

Logged

"Trust those who seek the truth, doubt those who say they've found it."

yes yes yes --you are missing the whole point-feeding honey from dedicated white wax -virgin to broodclearing the supper so it can be put away for next seasons honey harvest-any first year keeper can put honey on and leave it on

yes. After 50 y beekeeping it is easy to miss the point, what ever it is.

that white wax and brown wax brood is nonsense. Be flexiple when you nurse bees. You need not hang yoursef to all kinds of principals. Saving the earth and more minor issues

;) ill keep that in mind when i treat for varoa --comesee--- comesaw :? RDY-B

an older beekeeper here has gone to using 6 frame nucs because 10 frame boxes are getting to be too heavy for him. he stacks them as high as the bees will fill them during the flow. after he has harvested his honey he goes back to 2 boxes putting a queen exlcluder between the boxes ( queen on the bottom ). late september he pulls the excluder so that the queen & the cluster can move up move up & use the stored honey thru the winter. he has had good results the last few years with this method. he also has kept bees for 60 year & is well known & respected in this area.

.A Danish professional beek too adviced to split the poly langstroth box, Then a thin hard wall to open side and you have half light honey box.I made them some. At Least they are handy to use when I take honey away from hives.

.My back is very near to violate. 20 kg often informs that it is enough.