Hydraulic Clutch Troubleshooting

If your 1984 or later Hydraulic clutch is acting up, as in, not fully
disengaging the clutch when the pedal is pressed or the clutch pedal not
fully returning after being pressed read on…

Before swapping out the clutch components because you are suspecting a
worn throw out bearing, inspect the linkage for wear. In particular look
at the point where the master cylinder push rod connects to the clutch
linkage (it’s located to the right of the steering column inside the
cab). On some model years the master cylinder push rod is adjustable. I
replaced my later model non-adjustable push rod with a newer unit from a
newer truck out of a junk yard.

Pull the pin.

Take the push rod off the drop down arm.

Inspect the plastic bushing and replace it if it looks at all worn.

If the linkage is well worn adjust the length of the push rod, if yours
is the type that can be adjusted, or attempt to find a newer adjustable
rod from a junkyard. Just a tiny little bit of slop at this critical
connecting point can cause a significant loss of travel in the master
cylinder.

When making adjustments take care not to adjust the push rod out too
far, too much adjustment will prevent the hydraulics from returning and
could cause clutch slippage. All you need to do is take out all the slop
between the master cylinder push rod and the drop down arm.

Your best bet it to inspect this critical connecting point and detect
wear early enough so that a new plastic shim will prevent a problem. I
replaced the plastic bushing with some brass shim material.

This is easy and cheap insurance to prevent future problems. Keep and
eye on this high wear point and keep it greased.

Nolan grew up in a space balanced between the glitz and glamour of Los Angeles' high-gloss exotics and the Mojave desert's hairy-chested muscle cars and trucks. His dream garage would consist of forgotten domestic metal from the '80s and '90s.