the power to these has to be spot on or you can also get wavy disturbances on the image as well. Usually the power from the jamma harness is good enough to negate this but beware of hdd power adapters, its a hit and miss on those. Atx power supply is also really good, but a bit of an overkill though.

Thanks for posting this. Was able to dial out the wavy static.

I'm noticing some tearing in a few games. If I add the required modelines for my videocard, will the UVC accept and passthrough the proper refresh rate in 240p 15khz?

So probably will get a black screen outside of these settings. For the tearing:

check out dip 2 – Output Delay Scan Lines (if tearing appears on the bottom of the screen, increase the delaylines, if the top of the screen is wrapped around to the bottom, decrease the delay lines)· *On = 8· Off = 16

MODs: If this is the wrong location for this post, please move. I'm trying to close the loop on the UVC story I've been having and wanted others to see the extend to which one has to go with some members of the arcade collecting community!

After trying to resolve this issue with the French seller privately for over 2 months, I have no choice but to give up. If the seller ever changes his mind, and work out a solution with me (at this point he's ignoring all my e-mails/PMs) I will delete this message. In the mean time, I will keep this information here for other buyers to be aware of this.

Background about me:

- eBay ID is leonki - note the feedback. Always pay super fast. Never got negative feedback in over a decade! Been in the NES gaming scene all this time, and got into Arcades only in the last year (hence the low post count here) but have purchased from others here and a lot of items on other forums.

- July 23: CryingFreeman (Dominique) post a UVC for sale on arcadeotaku.com for 100 euro + shipping. According to the listing:

"never used because i don't have any 15khz screen"

- July 27: I used paypal GIFT to pay for UVC (total was 122 euro) shipped to Canada- July 30: seller sends me message that items was shipped with actual cost being 23.04 euro- Aug 20: After testing the UVC, I e-mail seller telling him it doesn't work. Seller replies a couplehours later suggesting I visit http://www.emphatic.se/?p=139 for a troubleshooting guide.

Between Aug 20 and Aug 23, I contact multiple individuals to get help with this UVC:

- arcadecontrols.com: I speak multiple times with David Foley (old CEO of Ultracade). He was amazing at trying to get me help, even while having legal issues with Ultracade.- neo-geo.com: UVC owner Jassin000 who makes harness cables for UVC confirmed that my wiring is correct- shmups.system11.org: emphatic himself tries to help me

As last resort, I ship the UVC from Canada to Sweden to Emphatic for testing (same person seller suggested I contact). Shipping cost to Sweden 8$, time less than 1 week.

- Aug 27: Emphatic sends me a message saying the UVC is not working for him either.- Aug 27: I e-mail seller telling him the issue- Aug 28: I e-mail the seller second time- Aug 29: I e-mail the seller third time6 hours later, I post on arcadeotaku.com saying seller is not replying to my e-mails- Aug 30: Seller posts on arcadeotaku and e-mails me back! But saying that he's not going to do anything for me because "he doesn't appreciate threats on forums" and item was sold "working".

- Aug 30: Another UVC is purchased from Fudoh (of hazard-city.de fame) for 100 euro including shipping.- Sep 7: UVC arrives from Germany (shipping cost 5.50 euro) and tested out to work perfectly

I think I was super fair to the seller all along. It wasn't until I posted on a forum that he finally replied to me! I have had hundreds (if not thousands at this point) of transaction with people all over the world and never had an issue until this one.

I came across this site whilst search to see if I could connect an Xbox 360 to my Arcade monitor. I see that the UVC seems the be the answer to my question so I got straight on eBay and googled for sellers and came up blank. To cut a long story short after months of searching I managed to get one from a collector in America and it arrived the other day.

Being all new to me I have a few questions, I apologise in advance if they seem a bit dumb.

My arcade monitor is a Hantarex Polo 25 that was used in a Golden Tee cabinet which is what I am using for my project, the cab has been stripped of all Golden Tee stuff but a few bits have survived namely what looks like a power unit, some wires that connect to monitor think its called a jamma lead.

1. What settings do I need to select on the Xbox display settings on the dashboard? Because iv be using it on my HD tv through Hdmi it's currently on 1080p and widescreen. I will be playing Mortal Kombat 9, super street fighter on the cabinet and a few xbla titles like sine mora, virtual fighter 5. I'm a bit worried the different titles make display differently and look bad or does it not matter and they all look good? My aim is the get best possible quality I can.

2. How to a make a connector to slot into the jamma lead? I'm assuming I run leads from power block to the UVC for power of unit but you mention it has to be just right amount of power or it wont work. I also don't get how to get the picture to work? I do have an official VGA lead that would go into the UVC but how does it get to monitor?

For best results on the UVC you have to use 480p output in 4:3 from the 360. This will work with all games that support 4:3.

The UVC converts the graphics to 240p, so it's best suited for 2D material. Native Hi-Res games like MK9, SSF4, VF5 would look better in 480i. Your monitor supports both, since both have a 15khz scan rate. To get 480i from a 360 you just need a RGB cable along with a sync stripper (depends on the monitor). You don't need a UVC.

If you plan on playing arcade PCB's later on in your cabinet, wiring it up for JAMMA makes sense. If you're only going to play consoles in it, I'd instead get a Multi-Console Cthulhu for the controls, use the UVC for video conversion and add a 2.1 PC speaker setup for audio.

+1 on the MC Cthulhu, but for 360 you can also wire a 360 controller PCB in common ground with the Cthulhu. I picked up several WWE Brawl pads for half the price of that adapter when brick and mortar Gamestop strores were liquidating them.

You can use a Genesis controller PCB common ground with the Cthulhu as well.

Thanks guys iv got some hacked pads that I will be using on arcade panel and to be honest I don't think I would ever be using any arcade pcb's on this cab. I'm not sure how to get a video signal though I know that the monitor does connect to the green plastic connectors on the jamma lead but how would I wire them to UVC, would I trace the ones that connect and separate them from jamma lead? Also the dip switches are all on the up position is this correct.

Appreciate your help guys it's giving me some hope that I might get this thing hooked up.

Limpan from AO has sold me Ultramac uVC and am so glad I found after a long search I have also bought the FrancoB´s bifrequency adapter in the pack but I do not need it. If anyone is interested in this device I put it on sale at £60 shipping from Spain to EU would be around £20 More information about that:

Been really busy of late due to the birth of our first child but back now determined to set up my jtag xbox to arcade cabinet iv been working on.

I have managed to aquire the following:

A power adapter from an old PC power supply

Another type of connector that a friend found for me

both fit perfectly on the UVC

And finally got one of these jamma boards off ebay I think it was described as allowing extra buttons for streetfighter games but I have bought it to connect to arcade monitor like Emphatic has done.

Could someone please tell me what do I need to do now? Im pretty rubbish at all this stuff. My arcade cabinet used to be a Golden tee machine but all the control panel got taken out and all thats left is an arcade power adaptor and the arcade monitor which has a few wires that go into a jamma harness.

I am unsure where to solder, what side to solder on, which wires to solder and if I can use the pc wires currently attached to connectors etc I think I understand the theory behind it that the jamma harness would provide the power and a link to the monitor.

I am unsure where to solder, what side to solder on, which wires to solder and if I can use the pc wires currently attached to connectors etc I think I understand the theory behind it that the jamma harness would provide the power and a link to the monitor.

Your best bet is to first label your adapter with PARTS side and solder the video and power wires from the UAC to the JAMMA fingerboard like this:

When you say check UAC for pin out does this mean? User arcade cabinet manual? If it does I don't have any manuals but I know monitor is a Hantarex Polo 25".

I'm also curious as my molex connector has 2 yellow, 2 red and 2 black wires how do I connect them to both solder and parts side as there wouldn't be enough wires.

Could I use one red wire on parts side lay it across pin 3&4 (+5) and solder the 2 strips together with one big blob of solder fusing 3&4 together making it into one connection with no gap between strips? or would that not work (hope that makes sense) I could then also do this for pin 1&2 (Ground) and do the same on solder side.

I'm also curious as my molex connector has 2 yellow, 2 red and 2 black wires how do I connect them to both solder and parts side as there wouldn't be enough wires.

Could I use one red wire on parts side lay it across pin 3&4 (+5) and solder the 2 strips together with one big blob of solder fusing 3&4 together making it into one connection with no gap between strips? or would that not work (hope that makes sense) I could then also do this for pin 1&2 (Ground) and do the same on solder side.

This works, just make sure not to let the wires make contact with the wrong pins (power meeting ground for example).

Well, judging from the photos you posted on AO, the PSU is the same type that gave me grief on my UVC. So that would be the best bet. You just choose the molex connector that fits the UVC from the ATX power supply. You might need to power up the PC at the same time to "share" the power supply as the PC power button will determine whether the PSU will power up in the first place. Not hard to do, just troublesome, but hey, if the PSU is at fault then it is easily solved by buying another one from local electronic parts store.