On 21/01/2015 shortman wrote:>On 21/01/2015 martym wrote:>>>>>>>>>>>What is 'totally badass'?>>>>>>Sleeping 600m off the deck apparently??>>>>And sleeping next to a bag of your own feces for 18 days...>>As if the dudes delivering the food weren't taking this away...can you>really imagine them leaving a festering sh*t pile?>

On 21/01/2015 shortman wrote:>On 21/01/2015 martym wrote:>>>>>>>>>>>What is 'totally badass'?>>>>>>Sleeping 600m off the deck apparently??>>>>And sleeping next to a bag of your own feces for 18 days...>>As if the dudes delivering the food weren't taking this away...can you>really imagine them leaving a festering sh*t pile?>

Dealing with faeces on a wall climbing adventure isn't that hard and isn't that gross either.
There are plenty of methods of storing it that dehydrate it and render it basically odourless.
The simplest and cheapest is a poo-tube with a handful of lime in it, though there are commercial kits similar to what the boating industry uses if you want to spend a penny!

Urine?
I am told, that disposing of it from an overhanging point at that height (at a windless time to avoid blow-back), causes it to evaporate before it gets to the ground...
The commercial kits turn it to jelly...

Hydration is a bigger issue on a wall, and if you are not eating much (due dehydration), then you don't crap much either.

>Like many big climbing achievements, future climbers will come back to>this route and do it in better style with no porters, less social media>wanking, leading all pitches free instead of team-free, etc.

>Really? What makes you so sure about that?

Well I'm not sure, but I would be surprised if other climbers didn't try to repeat it in better style. This is often how it goes. Robbins repeated the Nose in better style (no siege) after Harding, aid climbs are done free, etc. Often a climb can be repeated in better style- my point was that this doesn't necessarily take away from accomplishments of the FA.

Team-free is what most of us do: the leader frees a pitch, then the follower frees on toprope. They may swing leads or lead in blocks. Team-freeing a big wall means that each climber freed each pitch, but did not lead each pitch. These guys pushed the definition of team-free a bit on the Dawn Wall, as they weren't climbing together for some of the route: TC was leading up to wino tower while KJ was redpointing pitch 15.

I did like "Two Men Climb Giant Difficult Rock Face, No One Dies, Some Fingertip Skin Damaged".

I hadn't picked up before on Jorgeson's remark, “I hope it inspires people to find their own Dawn Wall.” which of course is a riff on the last line of Herzog's Annapurna , which gives me a laugh because I always mentally convert such lines to : "There are other recreational facilities in the life of men" (Mike Thompson, Out With The Boys Again )

Ed Burke
“I doubt God will welcome such people if they die doing such life threatening foolhardy escapades. Life is precious, and a gift from God meant to be used for better things and not risked for a thrill. This isn’t like scientific exploration expanding the knowledge of God’s creation. This is simply foolish and irresponsible. There is nothing to be gained in such foolhardy adventures.”

On 22/01/2015 Drake wrote:>Well I'm not sure, but I would be surprised if other climbers didn't try>to repeat it in better style. This is often how it goes. Robbins repeated>the Nose in better style (no siege) after Harding, aid climbs are done>free, etc. Often a climb can be repeated in better style- my point was>that this doesn't necessarily take away from accomplishments of the FA.

Yeah yeah, just like Lynn Hill freed the Nose, then did it in a day, then Tommy and Beth did it team free, then hundreds of other climbers freed it with less dogging, and then it got onsighted.......but I guess the hard pitches on The Nose are 4 or 5 grades easier than the Dawn Wall, so that explains why so many people have been successful at freeing it.

On 28/01/2015 One Day Hero wrote:>On 22/01/2015 Drake wrote:>>Well I'm not sure, but I would be surprised if other climbers didn't>try>>to repeat it in better style. This is often how it goes. Robbins repeated>>the Nose in better style (no siege) after Harding, aid climbs are done>>free, etc. Often a climb can be repeated in better style- my point was>>that this doesn't necessarily take away from accomplishments of the FA.>>Yeah yeah, just like Lynn Hill freed the Nose, then did it in a day, then>Tommy and Beth did it team free, then hundreds of other climbers freed>it with less dogging, and then it got onsighted.......but I guess the hard>pitches on The Nose are 4 or 5 grades easier than the Dawn Wall, so that>explains why so many people have been successful at freeing it.

What are you trying to say Damo? If ya trolling then it was a half arsed attempt, or have you forgotten that back when the Nose was done originally it was regarded as unlikely to ever be freed.
History thinks your future standards predictions for DW are whack.

On 28/01/2015 gnaguts wrote:>What are you trying to say Damo? If ya trolling then it was a half arsed>attempt, or have you forgotten that back when the Nose was done originally>it was regarded as unlikely to ever be freed.>History thinks your future standards predictions for DW are whack.

I was trying to say (in a way which was obviously one step too far from bleeding farking obvious) that the Nose has way less hard pitches than the Dawn Wall, and the hard ones are way less hard, and the frigging thing has only been freed by 2 (3?) other people in the 20yrs since the first free ascent. I just don't think there's much of a market for this shit, unless your sponsors are happy to keep feeding you for years while you do a glorious first ascent.