Well with 3.54's you'll just need a new R&P and a master install kit for the front. But if you go with a locker then that will be extra. The rear will need a new carrier, R&P, and a master install kit. To put a locker here you could nix the carrier because the locker will replace that.

There are many articles to explain the differences in lockers, just do a quick search. I would say a mechanical is more reliable, just because if you lose an air line your SOL! There are good arguments for both. Personally I'm putting a Detroit TruTrac in my Dana 30 front. An air locker will need an air pump, typically mounted under the hood. Check out ARB's website.

If you currently have the distributor from the feedback BBD era installed on an aftermarket carb or nutter bypassed BBD engine, your ignition timing is way off of optimal and will definitely keep you from making the power that it is able to.

I'm a little surprised at how many people overlook this important fact and buy new carbs, big distributor caps, fancy ignition parts, etc. to try to get more power when the ignition curve itself is often times the main culprit.

I'm not disagreeing that the computerized distributor isn't one of the worse distributor to run but timing isn't the end all of jeep power problems.

I'm running the same stock comp dist and even with the vacuum disconnected I had no problems going up to 85 with 33's 3.54 and a tiny 1 bbl YF.

A few years ago I ran a stock hp curve against hp needed against hp available at different rpm. It had quite a few holes in it when plugging in different ratios. Worse case was the t5. In fact, there were negative hp available. That means the jeep probably will slow down in 5 th gear.

So I don't think that fixing the timing curve is going to fix his problem. With all the possibilities of vacuum leaks, poor spark, wrong mixture. I would look at those first. Along with static timing. I'd worry about the curve last.