Printing

Block Printing

Block printing is an ancient craft in India, where wooden blocks are carved with intricate patterns and these are dipped in color and repeatedly pressed on fabric. There are numerous motifs, colors and fabrics, typical to each region in India. These motifs have evolved over time and have great cultural significance. The patterns also evolved because of influences from Europe and the Middle East who have been major buyers of these fabrics over centuries.

In West Bengal, Burdhaman and Serampore have been centers for printing since the 1800’s for both textile and paper. Textiles printed here have a market all over the world and over time have evolved a distinct style and flavor.

Screen printing

This technique is the most common form of textile printing and it involves the application of the printing paste through a fine screen placed in contact with the fabric to be printed. Screens are made by tightly stretching a fine mesh fabric across a metal frame. The design is created in reverse by blocking areas of the screen where no color is to be printed – a separate screen is used for each color.

The screen is then placed over the fabric and the printing paste is forced through the open areas of the screen using a flexible synthetic rubber or steel blade known as a squeegee. The squeegee is drawn steadily across the screen by hand at a constant angle and pressure. Screen-printing is now often automated, with hand screen-printing confined to the high-fashion industry.

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Production Process

The wood block is carefully prepared as a relief matrix, which means the areas to show 'white' are cut away with a knife, chisel, or sandpaper leaving the motif to show in 'black' at the original surface level. The block is cut along the grain of the wood.

First the fabric is de-gummed (where all the starch is removed) and scoured and washed. This is to ensure that the dyes are taken in properly and evenly.

The colors are prepared. The dye-water is raised to a high temperature and then the wet fabric is dipped into it. The craftsperson checks frequently to make sure the desired color is matched. Dyed fabric is then put in the fixing solution, before it is washed.

After drying, the fabric is stretched very carefully and precisely on the printing table and secured with pins.

The blocks – basically wooden reliefs with designs – are dipped in a color bath and pressed hard on the fabric. The printer inks the block and brings it into firm and even contact with the cloth to achieve a continuous print. For color printing, multiple blocks are used, each for one color, although overprinting two colors may produce further colors on the print.

If the design has more than one color, the second block is dipped in a different bath and aligned precisely into the pattern that has been already printed. Great skill and accuracy is required to produce a pattern that seamlessly flows, without the block being visible.

The fabric is then steamed in boiling water or in a steamer to fix the color. The last stage is when the printed fabric is dried in the sun, again to fix the color. This makes the block printing process dependent on sunny weather and on rainy days, the prints do not turn out well.

Dyed or plain cloth is fixed on the screen table which has a paraffin wax coating. This allows the cloth to stick absolutely flat, which is crucial for the process.

A screen – a frame of a very thin filament with the designs printed on it – is aligned on the fabric. Color is loaded at one end of the screen and pushed through with quick strokes of a squeegee. Two craftsmen working unison to make sure the color is printed evenly across the fabric.

The printed fabric is steamed and dried. It is then ironed and sent off for delivery.