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I've been searching this morning on information regarding the charcoal canister. Anything that I've come across dealing with this, only pertains to 2.2-2.5 swaps..

The Legacy donor vehicle had hit a deer, so the passenger fender/radiator/light/charcoal canister were destroyed.

I have the EJ in the Loyale now, and I'm wondering how to correctly hook up the Loyale's canister to the EJ motor. Is this possible? I believe I connected the two (available) EJ lines correctly. But there is the third line off of the cannister that I'm not sure where to hook up. It says VC I believe.

My next question is about hooking up an EA temp sender unit, and a fan relay together...

I will be hooking up two 10" fans to my brand new EA82 single row radiator. It is identical to the old one that I pulled out. There is a port on the side, that I believe I can put in some type of temperature sensor in... On to the subject...

I will be using the EA temp sender so that I can keep the gauge working. I also will be using a 30amp relay/circuit/switch system to operate my fans. I do not want to make a sleeve for the sender, then to put it in-line with the upper radiator hose. My idea is to make a T-adapter that can be used in that radiator port.

Any reservations? I was thinking of getting a small length (maybe 1/2" long) of threaded pipe (to the size of the hole..) then attaching that to a T of some sort that I can put in the temp sender for the gauge, and one for the fan sensor... That might not make any sense, my brain is firing sparatically from all the coffee...

You don't want your gauge temp sender in the radiator or the upper hose, you want it in the water crossover manifold on top of the block. I just used the EJ one and was content with 1/4 indicated being normal, 1/2 was getting hot, red was massively overheating and the engine was significantly down on power. You can also "trim" the EJ sender to the EA gauge with a resistor in line.

Why not use the EJ computer fan control output to run the fan relay? The computer does a good job and it has the temp sender anyway so no need for an extra temp switch in the radiator to fail.

The charcoal cannister has 3 hoses. One connects to the tank, one connects to the cannister purge line (the vacuum solenoid under the intake manifold), and one goes into a hole in the side of the frame rail. That's the vent. It's for the filtered fumes to exit through and the fresh air when the cannister is being purged to enter through.

You don't want your gauge temp sender in the radiator or the upper hose, you want it in the water crossover manifold on top of the block. I just used the EJ one and was content with 1/4 indicated being normal, 1/2 was getting hot, red was massively overheating and the engine was significantly down on power. You can also "trim" the EJ sender to the EA gauge with a resistor in line.

Why not use the EJ computer fan control output to run the fan relay? The computer does a good job and it has the temp sender anyway so no need for an extra temp switch in the radiator to fail.

The charcoal cannister has 3 hoses. One connects to the tank, one connects to the cannister purge line (the vacuum solenoid under the intake manifold), and one goes into a hole in the side of the frame rail. That's the vent. It's for the filtered fumes to exit through and the fresh air when the cannister is being purged to enter through.

I'd like to be as accurate as possible with the temp gauge... At least as accurate without using an aftermarket temp sender/gauge setup.

Can I use the ECU to control the fans, but also have a manual on/off switch? I have a Supra-swapped 4Runner with this setup. It came in handy when the relay failed, but the manual toggle allowed me to keep the fans on until I could swap out the relay. . .

So, does that VC line not really need to be hooked up? Does the canister have anything to do with the 4wd?

What I did to have ECU and on/off function manually was to use a SPDT w/center off. Flipped one way, switch close from ECU to relay. Switched the other way, it connects to a direct ground. Center position it is off ( I use this for water crossings on my wheeler)

EJ sender can be corrected to the EJ gauge using a 270 ohm resistor PARALLEL to the sender. Not inline.

If you want more accurate use an aftermarket cause the stockers aren't very accurate themselves

What I did to have ECU and on/off function manually was to use a SPDT w/center off. Flipped one way, switch close from ECU to relay. Switched the other way, it connects to a direct ground. Center position it is off ( I use this for water crossings on my wheeler)

EJ sender can be corrected to the EJ gauge using a 270 ohm resistor PARALLEL to the sender. Not inline.

If you want more accurate use an aftermarket cause the stockers aren't very accurate themselves

EJ sender can be corrected to the EJ gauge using a 270 ohm resistor PARALLEL to the sender. Not inline.

.......................................

I've gotten the fans to work with the computer. Thanks for the advice. My next hurtle is the gauge. With the signal wire tied into the Loyale's Temp Gauge wire, the gauge reads past the "H". I tried adding the resistor to the wire going to the gauge with it grounding on the vehicle. There was no change. Then I tried just putting it inline to see what would happen/see if the resistor was working correctly. Now it reads like it's cold/no signal. What if I tied the signal and ground wires (coming from the temp sensor) together with the resistor? What would that accomplish?

I assume the ground wire for the temperature sensor is the same as chassis ground and if so then tieing the ground of the sensor would be no different than placing one lead of the resistor too chassis ground and the other to the sensor signal lead.

Since placing the resistor in series with the signal lead made the meter show cold it means there is too much resistance added. I suggest you try to find a 100 ohm poteniometer and a 100 ohm resistor. Add a couple of test leads to the pot, one lead to the wiper contact and the other to one of the ends of the pot. Then place the two leads in series with the sensor lead and see if you can adjust the pot and make the gauge read what you think it should read at according to the engine temperature. If the gauge goes too high still with the pot maxed out then add the 100 ohm resistor to the circuit and try adjusting the pot again. If you find a place that makes the gauge show a valid temperature reading then remove the pot and measure the resistance between the two leads. Then you can purchase a resistor as close to that value as possible. I'm not sure how calibrated the gauge will be if you add the resistor but you could check things using an infrared temperature sensor and compare readings to come up with a correction chart.