Food for Thought: Jam perseverance

Don’t let a small kitchen quash canning bug

Skillet strawberry jam.

Photograph by: Julie Van Rosendaal
, For Condo Xtra

JULIE VAN ROSENDAAL, CX

In the food world, slow is replacing fast as people come to appreciate the process involved to make good food using whole ingredients.

A jar of jam might be readily available at any 24-hour corner store, but chances are it hasn’t been made from scratch, using local produce at its peak. Even though it’s not necessary, it’s simple to put up your own preserves.

The procedure is not as complicated when you’re only making enough to get you through a week or month, and the fruits of your labour are destined for the fridge rather than the pantry shelf.

Small-batch preserving is ideal for anyone with a small kitchen. Whatever pots and pans you already have will do. It’s a great fall weekend project, when fruits and veggies are in season, and they’re ripe and inexpensive.

There’s no need to pick up cases of jars, either — when you’re only making a small amount, all you’ll need is an empty jar or two, or sealable plastic containers to store your homemade preserves in the fridge or freezer.

Getting Your Fruit Into a Jam

Simmer fruit with sugar, pectin and an acid (most often lemon juice), and at some point you’ll wind up with jam.

While some fruits are naturally high in pectin (plums, apples and citrus, for example), others need a bit of help with the packaged variety.

Typically under-ripe fruit (such as strawberries that are partly white) are higher in pectin, so if you aren’t using store-bought pectin, don’t rely on a batch of purely over-ripe fruit to gel easily.

Most jam recipes call for a ratio of 2:1 to 1:1 fruit to sugar. If you’re winging it, wash, pit, peel and chop your fruit into a pot, add half as much to equal parts sugar and bring the mixture to a rolling boil. If you’re using powdered or gel pectin, add it too — but it’s not necessary.

Cook, stirring often, until the mixture reaches 220°F on a candy thermometer or a spoonful set on a chilled saucer wrinkles when pushed with your finger. Or use the eyeballing-it-test: when it looks like jam, it’s done.

Store your homemade jam in the fridge for up to two weeks for lower-sugar jams, or a month or more for preserves made with equal parts fruit and sugar, as sugar acts as a preservative.

Jams, jellies and chutneys also freeze well; stash in freezer containers with as little headspace as possible —and a piece of plastic wrap set on the surface of the jam before putting the lid on — for up to a year.

And remember — any jam that stubbornly refuses to set can easily be reclassified as delicious fruit syrup.

FREEZING FALL FRUIT

Fall is the best time of year to preserve fresh fruit at its peak. Unless a recipe states otherwise, use fruit straight from the freezer, especially in muffins and other baked goods - once thawed they will release moisture, making batters runny and affecting their colour.

To freeze berries: gently wash, hull strawberries (and halve them if large) and spread out in a single layer on a paper towel-lined sheet. Gently blot dry and freeze on the sheet, then transfer to small freezer bags, press out as much air as possible, seal and freeze for up to a year.

To freeze peaches: remove stones, slice and toss with a sprinkle of sugar (this prevents ice crystals from forming), then freeze on a baking sheet and transfer to small freezer bags, press out as much air as possible, seal and freeze for up to a year.

To freeze plums: remove stones, slice and toss with a sprinkle of sugar (this prevents ice crystals from forming), then freeze on a baking sheet and transfer to small freezer bags, press out as much air as possible, seal and freeze for up to a year.

To freeze apples and pears: peel, chop and cook with sugar to taste until they turn into sauce. Cool completely and freeze in freezer bags or containers for up to a year.

ON THE SIDE

et into the kitchen and do your own version of small-batch preserving with these delicious recipes by Julie Van Rosendaal, food writer, cookbook author, blogger (dinnerwithjulie.com) and nutrition columnist on CBC Radio’s Calgary Eyeopener.

Small Batch Peach Chutney

Use peaches or nectarines for this tangy-sweet chutney; reminiscent of classic mango chutney, it’s perfect with curries, samosas, roast chicken or pork, or to serve alongside cheese platters.

2 lb peaches or nectarines (4-5 large ones)

1 small onion, finely chopped

1-2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tsp. grated fresh ginger

1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced

1/2 red bell pepper, seeded and minced

1 cup packed brown sugar

1/2 cup apple cider or rice vinegar

1/4 tsp. salt

pinch red pepper flakes

To peel the peaches, drop a few at a time into a pot of boiling water; remove after a minute (use tongs or a slotted spoon) and plunge into a bowl of ice water to stop them from cooking. Once cool enough to handle, slip off the skins with your fingers. Halve the peaches, pit them and roughly chop them, reserving any juices that accumulate.

Put the peaches and any juices into a medium pot and add the remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring often, until the fruit softens and the mixture thickens. Continue to cook if it seems too runny, keeping in mind it will thicken as it cools. Remove from heat and cool completely. Pour into a jar or two and refrigerate for up to a month or freeze for up to six months.

Skillet Berry Jam

Because it has a larger surface area, a skillet cooks down small quantities of fruit and sugar quickly, turning it into jam in no time. And because it’s easy to see the mixture thicken as it cooks, there’s no need for hard boiling and candy thermometers.

In a bowl, roughly mash your berries with a fork, pastry cutter or potato masher, or simply squeeze them with your fingers. Pour into a large, heavy skillet set over medium-high heat and stir in the sugar and lemon juice.

Cook, stirring often, until the mixture bubbles and the fruit softens. Simmer until it thickens enough that your spoon leaves a trail through the jam. Remove from heat, scrape into a jar or bowl and cool completely. Store in the fridge for up to 3 weeks. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

Almost Done!

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