Peck & Bushel Organic Fruit Company's Agricultural Experience

Peck & Bushel Organic Fruit Company (5454 County Road Q, Colgate) is still a bit of a secret, but that’s okay with Joe and Jenny Fahey, the husband and wife team behind the organic apple orchard. As the only certified organic apple orchard of its size in the Upper Midwest—30,000 trees on 70 acres, with approximately 25 apple varieties—the couple strives to offer a natural, agricultural experience, along with an elegant barn venue for weddings and events.

The Fahey’s started the orchard in 2010 when they purchased acreage and planted 3,000 apple trees. Neither Joe nor Jenny had a background in farming: Joe worked in nuclear medicine technology, and Jenny is an accountant, but Joe had been experimenting with organic growing in a small backyard apple orchard. After succeeding on a small scale, he decided to try scaling things up.

Joe uses a vertical axis system, in which the apple trees are pruned and trained to grow up a trellis. The method allows better airflow and exposure to sunlight, thus producing more fruit per acre than large, traditional apple trees do. The system allows easier access to the apples, so cumbersome ladders aren’t needed. He considers myriad issues such as disease susceptibility before choosing which varieties of apples to grow. Peck & Bushel is certified organic, so they get audited every year to be sure they’re not using pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or genetically modified organisms. “It is very difficult to grow organically here,” Joe said. “But I enjoy the challenge of trying to do something I’ve been told over and over can’t be done.”

The honeycrisp apple, developed at the University of Minnesota specifically for cold climates, is one of their most popular, Joe said, and it’s usually ready in mid-to-late September. Some newer varieties that have caught on include hybrids developed in Wisconsin such as the Riverbelle, which ripens about one week ahead of honeycrisps and has a crisp, explosive flavor; and Pazazz, with a perfect balance of sweetness and tartness. It also keeps well.

Peck & Bushel’s pick-your-own season starts mid-to-late August and runs through mid-October. The orchard is open on Saturdays and Sundays. The retail barn, built in 2015, has a full-service bakery. They also offer certified-organic, freshly squeezed apple cider pressed on-site at their cider house. The crowds have grown exponentially along with the apple production. “We never have trouble getting rid of our fruit,” Joe said.

“We’re agriculture, and not ‘agri-tainment,’” Jenny added. “Our customers want a natural, agricultural experience. We don’t have bouncy houses or hay wagon rides, but you can buy a bag to pick apples and walk through a beautiful nature trail on top of a hill and see our orchard—and Holy Hill in the background.”

During the off-season, the retail barn doubles as event space, offering modern flare with rustic charm, with accommodations for up to 200 guests. The Faheys stained or painted every interior board themselves. They recently partnered with The Bartolotta Restaurants group for an exclusive catering partnership for barn weddings, corporate picnics, farm dinners and other events.

Despite the challenges of growing certified-organic apples in Wisconsin, along with curveballs Mother Nature throws their way every year, the Faheys seem content with their slice of life on the orchard. “My favorite thing is showing someone what an apple should taste like and getting them to like a new variety,” Jenny said.

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