AuthorTopic: Proper Way To Power a JBL 5628 (Read 8528 times)

Just wondering how you guys would go about powering a JBL 5628 Cinema sub. The rating on each transducer is 4,000 watts into 8 ohms. You can run it in parallel drive mode creating a 4 ohm load, but I don't know of any crown amps that put out 8,000 watts into 4 ohms unless you bridge the amp. So how would you power this sub? I-tech 4X3500 bridged into 2 channels, to power a single cabinet (over kill, I know), 2 I-tech 5000 HD's per 5628 bridged into each driver, or a bridged I-tech 12000HD into a single 5628 running in parallel drive mode?

Actual ratings, the drivers are 1200W AES, and can survive peaks that are 6dB more than that.I'd use one channel of an iTech 12000HD into the 4ohm load that would be presented and call it good. The amp will put out ~2x the long-term ratings of the drivers.

If you bridged you'd get a couple of extra kilowatts out of the amp, but you'd get less than 3dB of gain. Not worth bothering.

Actual ratings, the drivers are 1200W AES, and can survive peaks that are 6dB more than that.I'd use one channel of an iTech 12000HD into the 4ohm load that would be presented and call it good. The amp will put out ~2x the long-term ratings of the drivers.

If you bridged you'd get a couple of extra kilowatts out of the amp, but you'd get less than 3dB of gain. Not worth bothering.

Chris

The 2269 woofer is 2000 watts AES 2hr and 1200 watts on the 100hr IEC test that JBL uses. The IT12K will be the way to go.

Actual ratings, the drivers are 1200W AES, and can survive peaks that are 6dB more than that.I'd use one channel of an iTech 12000HD into the 4ohm load that would be presented and call it good. The amp will put out ~2x the long-term ratings of the drivers.

If you bridged you'd get a couple of extra kilowatts out of the amp, but you'd get less than 3dB of gain. Not worth bothering.

Chris

That's true, I lose sight of that double the power = 3db rule sometimes when dealing with huge power like this (relatively huge for what I'm used to dealing with at least). 3,500 watts seems huge until you look at the whole picture.

That's true, I lose sight of that double the power = 3db rule sometimes when dealing with huge power like this (relatively huge for what I'm used to dealing with at least). 3,500 watts seems huge until you look at the whole picture.

Thanks for the advice on the 12K. That will be the way I will go.

The idea that JBL "needs" megawatt amplifiers is a mystery to me. We have HD12k and I can monitor the output in real time. On EDM gigs with sustained bass, our 4880 are bouncing around on the floor with 600 watts of current, you can smell the voice coils getting hot, too.

For impactful peaks? Sure, you need more voltage swing, but unless that level is sustained a megawatt delivery systems in not needed.

You'll do well with the HD12k. What is your application, more cinema?

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The idea that JBL "needs" megawatt amplifiers is a mystery to me. We have HD12k and I can monitor the output in real time. On EDM gigs with sustained bass, our 4880 are bouncing around on the floor with 600 watts of current, you can smell the voice coils getting hot, too.

For impactful peaks? Sure, you need more voltage swing, but unless that level is sustained a megawatt delivery systems in not needed.

You'll do well with the HD12k. What is your application, more cinema?

Having the headroom is nice, and for powering less efficient, more power hungry speakers maybe. Could be marketing as well, but I'm a firm believer in it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

And yes, the application is a large, steroidal home cinema. The left center and right channels are JBL M2's. I was looking at the SUB18's, but the 5628 is nearly the same price and has another 2269 driver in it. Somebody I've been speaking with has the same set up with both the 5628's and the SUB18's. From his experience with both, he said if you can fit the 5628's and integrate them, go with those. Much more bang for your buck.

Having the headroom is nice, and for powering less efficient, more power hungry speakers maybe. Could be marketing as well, but I'm a firm believer in it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

And yes, the application is a large, steroidal home cinema. The left center and right channels are JBL M2's. I was looking at the SUB18's, but the 5628 is nearly the same price and has another 2269 driver in it. Somebody I've been speaking with has the same set up with both the 5628's and the SUB18's. From his experience with both, he said if you can fit the 5628's and integrate them, go with those. Much more bang for your buck.

Dude for the price of that amp you can get a Danley DTS10 and an amp for it! That bad boy has real, usable response down to 10hz. Will vaporize the JBL sub.