Thinking of buying a Silhouette SD and have some questions? Maybe you just bought one and are wondering 'now what?' Here are your answers! This FAQ will continue to evolve as new important info is discovered and verified.

Please do not clutter up this thread with off-topic posts. Lets keep it on topic with valid questions and answers relating to issues and important info about the Silhouette SD with regards to using it for card stock modeling.

A) The Silhouette SD comes with everything you need to get started... but there's some more info in this thread to take in to consideration. Would also be a wise step to buy a World Works Games product that's compatible with the robo-cutters so that you can quickly get right to printing, cutting, and crafting! Any of the TerrainLinx sets are a great place to start.

Q) Can I download the ROBO Master software some where and play with it first? Is it easy to use or should I read some manuals? Any tutorials on how to use this software with regards to card stock modeling and WWG model sets?

Q) That software is for the Silouette SD. What if I want the software for a Craft Robo?

A)

Highland_Piper wrote:

I would like to point out that the link for latest Sihouette Drivers does not work with Craft Robo. At least not the CC-200

I want to let you know that if you download ROBO Master V. 5.1 from Graphtec America from the Craft ROBO Downloads (CC330L-20), during the installation of v. 5.1 you will be asked which model you are using. Please don't just rapidly click Next (as I embarrassingly did :oops: ). Also this works on European (A4) models (as I have myself)

Select your model and you will be upgraded to 5.1 and you will be able to use all versions of ROBO Master up to 5.1.

Q) With regards to Model sets and other WWG products.... do any WWG sets just not work with the Silhouette SD or is that even possible? How much time will I be spending on a complex model like EW: Hinterlands and all of those tree branches? Will I have to use any graphics manipulation software on a model set before using the Silhouette software ? Is there any sort of sharing of files already setup for a given model set; so for our example of Hinterlands... if I've bought Hinterlands could I download a file from someone else who's already converted it to work with the Silhouette SD?

A)

Gamesmith Denny wrote:

All TerrainlinX modelsets officially support and include GSD cutting templates for Craftrobo & Silhouettes SD compatibility. Print, feed into the cutter, glue together. That currently includes: Himmelveil Streets, Himmelveil Sewers (plus expansion), Himmelveil Canals. You can expect all future sets from us to include full support for robocutters.

In terms of backwards compatibility its a trickier issue. We plan to retroactively update older products with GSD files for automated cutting over time but its a complicated job. Not only do you have to create cutting paths for each model page but you have to ensure that all elements on the page fit within a prespecified "safe cut zone". This creates a situation where model graphics need to physically be moved on the page to fit that frame. Not all model pages require this but even the safe ones need registration marks applied.

There have been fanbase efforts to do conversions and we are supporting that to a degree. We can only implement GSD conversions that also include complete graphic tweaks. Its an all-or-nothing proposition at the moment. Once we have the conversions we will upload them to the store, where previous purchasers can redownload the item in question. There's no easy alternative to that scenario without getting into sharing issues which may be harmful to WWG.

Q) I've already Printed Model Sets but it sounds like you can't use models you've already printed out. This is a pretty important heads up since a lot of us print in batches and have stacks of stuff already printed out. You must do all of the necessary prepwork first, then print them out, and then run them through the Silhouette.... right?

A) Pages printed out must have already been made compatible to robo-cutters. If you have pages already printed out from products or model sets that are not compatible then they will NOT work.

You either need to use an already compatible model set / product from WWG or manually convert older model sets / products to work with your robo-cutter. Using already compatible products is simple and easy. Converting non-compatible products takes time and there is a learning curve.

Q) I got the thing... now what?!

A) RTFM =) Seriously; read the quick setup guide book cover to cover before even setting it up. Then go step by step.

A few things not in the quick setup guide: - Remove the tape from the top door. - Open the top and remove tape holding blade & optical sensor assembly to chassis -nrobert - The book says to plug in the power supply but the setup program says to make sure it's not plugged into the power supply. I had it plugged in to the power supply but the USB cable was unplugged and it worked fine. - The setup program will prompt you to plug in the USB cable as it installs the drivers so leave the USB cable unplugged until then. - Windows may ask you to install the device drivers even after the setup program has already done so... just let Windows install them again selecting the option to have Windows automatically install the drivers. It's Windows... resistance is futile...

Q) What else should I know or read before actually cutting anything?

A) Make some notes of important stuff to put on your 'check list' - Write down the settings you'll need based on the paper you'll be cutting. Refer to Mel's guide here: viewtopic.php?t=7468 - Make note of what color line means what kind of cut. Most people go with this standard: - Grey (128,128,128) = cut out completely - Green (0,255,0) = perforated or dashed line - Red (255,0.0) = score line for valley fold - Blue (0,0,255) = score line for mountain fold

Q) Neat, so uh... how do I actually do a perforated or dashed line?

A)

MelEbbles wrote:

Line styles are cosmetic only, ROBO Master doesn't care if the lines are dashed, dotted, dash-dotted, solid, or whatever--it only cares what color the lines are.

The colors are the important bit--they each are their own cutting layer from ROBO Master's perspective. You can use whatever colors you want, but it helps to be consistent from document to document.

Click on File>Output Settings>Cutting Settings tab>Cutline Settings button. You'll see a little dialog that has the cutting layers listed by color--in the right column, you can choose Solid or Dashed.

Above that is the Dashed Line Pattern settings frame, which has 2 fields--one for cut segment, one for uncut segment. I generally use 0.04"/0.04" (1mm/1mm) for dashed lines.

A) When using 110lb cardstock I like to use 0.07 / 0.04 as it is much easier to fold with out causing any warping or rounded corners.

Q) Jeez man can I just cut something already?!

A) Fine.... if you must... Open ROBO master. Click File > New > Letter (8.5x11). Do NOT check "Use Registration Marks". CHECK "Use Carrier Sheet". Click on My Library and find a couple of shapes to drop down. Make sure they are within the red box and that nothing is close to the registration marks (the L brackets in each corner... have you noticed I'm pretty much quoting the quick install guide? =)

Mount a piece of card stock to your carrier sheet. Yes, I know, it's hard to line things up... stop worrying about it and just mount it. It's your first cut and it's not going to be perfect. Load the carrier sheet according to your quick install guide.

Hit the 'send to robo' button in the ROBO Master software then be sure to adjust your Speed and Thickness for the paper you have loaded. Now hit the 'cut' button then click 'ok' and away it goes! Once it's done you can hit the enter button on the robo to eject your sheet. Peal off the outer waste that you don't want and swear at how overly sticky your carrier sheet is. Then peal off the things you cut out and frown at how badly they curled because the carrier sheet is too sticky.

Q) I printed off something I want to cut out and it has the registration marks on it. However after I load it into the robo and click 'cut' to have the robo automagically find the registration marks it always fails! What gives?!

The rule of thumb for this is pretty simple and consistent across the different models:

1. Center the printed sheet between the white rollers. Yes, the rollers. Paper size or carrier size is irrelevant, you want the printed sheet to be centered between the rollers.

2. The edge of an US Letter sheet should just about align with the innermost edge of the black cutting strip when you feed it in. For A4 paper, feed it in just enough that the regmarks almost disappear under the metal roller axle.

3. Feed printed sheets in bottom-first. (follow the arrows! -morganm)

These three rules fix 95% of regmark scan failures. The other 5% can be dealt with in one of the following fashions:

1. Make sure you actually *see* a red light shining on the sheet as the head moves during the regmark scan. If you don't see it, your ARMS is defective.

2. Make sure your paper isn't too glossy, and there isn't too much direct light bouncing off the paper. Closing the cover usually takes care of this issue. (also make sure there isn't too much light in the room focused on the robo itself; again keep the cover closed while it's searching for reg marks... and most any other time really - morganm)

A) If you're making your own templates in Phtooshop / GIMP / Paint.NET be sure the registration marks you make are thick enough. I had to go with about 5pixels wide on my registration marks before the robo's optical sensor would pick them up.

Q) I've printed off some stuff, ran it through the cutter, and it's consistently off. The cuts are exactly offset up and left or down and right. I've double checked everything and the cutting guide lines in the GSD file are very accurate to what I want to cut out. How do I fix this?

Enough messing around... time to just get serious and buy a Silhouette SD. However I still have a lot of questions. Hopefully we can answer them here and really make it a no-brainer for people who are still on the fence and want more info to make an educated decision.

What do I need to buy so that I can unpack, setup, and get going? Obviously the robo-cutter itself... carrier sheets? EZ-tac and do your own carrier sheets? Are their any extra cords or other little things necessary?

All you need is the machine, initially. Once you get it behaving, you can move on to the next step.

Quote:

Carrier sheets... lets pretend I know almost nothing about a Silhouette SD =) I get the concept; you mount the thing you want to be cut to the carrier sheet. Should I use the one that comes with the device? Do I need to buy extras? I'm a real 'Do It Yourself' guy.... how do I make my own and is it actually cheaper in the long run?

The software... can I download it some where and play with it first? Is it easy to use or should I read some manuals? Any tutorials on how to use this software with regards to card stock modeling and WWG model sets?

If you're doing a straight print and cut of a model set that already comes with GSD files, you only need to open a file and click a couple of buttons.

If you want to cut things that DON'T include GSD files, you'll have to make your own GSD files. However, that's a "walk before you run" thing, so it's best to wait until you have a machine-cuttable model on hand, which would give you a much better sense of how everything works than trying to make sense of a forum post before the fact. After you've got a couple of successful cuts under your belt, we can move on to the whole conversion thing.

Quote:

Model sets.... do any WWG sets just not work with the Silhouette SD or is that even possible? How much time will I be spending on a complex model like EW: Hinterlands and all of those tree branches? Will I have to use any graphics manipulation software on a model set before using the Silhouette software ? Is there any sort of sharing of files already setup for a given model set; so for our example of Hinterlands... if I've bought Hinterlands could I download a file from someone else who's already converted it to work with the Silhouette SD?

I'll let Denny field this one.

Quote:

Already Printed Model Sets.... sounds like you can't use models you've already printed out. This is a pretty important heads up since a lot of us print in batches and have stacks of stuff already printed out. You must do all of the necessary prepwork first, then print them out, and then run them through the Silhouette.... right?

Correct. You need the registration marks to exist before printing. Otherwise, the machine has nothing to work with.

Model sets.... do any WWG sets just not work with the Silhouette SD or is that even possible? How much time will I be spending on a complex model like EW: Hinterlands and all of those tree branches? Will I have to use any graphics manipulation software on a model set before using the Silhouette software ? Is there any sort of sharing of files already setup for a given model set; so for our example of Hinterlands... if I've bought Hinterlands could I download a file from someone else who's already converted it to work with the Silhouette SD?

All TerrainlinX modelsets officially support and include GSD cutting templates for Craftrobo & Silhouettes SD compatibility. Print, feed into the cutter, glue together. That currently includes: Himmelveil Streets, Himmelveil Sewers (plus expansion), Himmelveil Canals. You can expect all future sets from us to include full support for robocutters.

In terms of backwards compatibility its a trickier issue. We plan to retroactively update older products with GSD files for automated cutting over time but its a complicated job. Not only do you have to create cutting paths for each model page but you have to ensure that all elements on the page fit within a prespecified "safe cut zone". This creates a situation where model graphics need to physically be moved on the page to fit that frame. Not all model pages require this but even the safe ones need registration marks applied.

There have been fanbase efforts to do conversions and we are supporting that to a degree. We can only implement GSD conversions that also include complete graphic tweaks. Its an all-or-nothing proposition at the moment. Once we have the conversions we will upload them to the store, where previous purchasers can redownload the item in question. There's no easy alternative to that scenario without getting into sharing issues which may be harmful to WWG.

Yeah, I'm syncing whatever I post on my forum here as well--I was a bit late doing so with the carrier sheet FAQ. Whenever I post something on machine cutting at my forum, it will also be reposted here.

I would like to point out that the link for latest Sihouette Drivers does not work with Craft Robo. At least not the CC-200

I want to let you know that if you download ROBO Master V. 5.1 from Graphtec America from the Craft ROBO Downloads (CC330L-20), during the installation of v. 5.1 you will be asked which model you are using. Please don't just rapidly click Next (as I embarrassingly did ). Also this works on European (A4) models (as I have myself)

Select your model and you will be upgraded to 5.1 and you will be able to use all versions of ROBO Master up to 5.1.

Gently peel it off the optical sensor / cutter head assembly and then off of the chassis.

There is tap between the optical sensor & cutter head assembly that holds it secure to the chassis. This must be removed before first turnning on the machine or the head will be stuck and likely make a bunch of angry noises!

So I'm trying to cut out a design that I made in Photoshop first. But when I set it to trace, it's actually making a cut line on both sides of the design's lines which wasn't a problem for my first few projects, but it's getting really frustrating now!!

Hopefully that pic helps to explain what I'm talking about. I realize I'll lose the inner spot on some of the lettering, and I'm fine with that, but I'd like to get rid of the 2nd cut line completely!

Most of the machine cut files that we make over here are done using the drawing functions, and not the trace function... because of the type of work we need to cut.
However we do need to use trace occasionally and what we do should work for you too

Not quite clear from your picture and explanation, but what I think you are trying to do is a trace of a picture, what you might need to do is make a silhouette mask of the drawing you are trying to trace...and use that....Hope that helps

Hope someone can help - (found your forum by searching Craft Robo). I was just given a CC200-20 that was previously owned, but never used. I am trying to create an account on graphteccorp.com, but cannot find the serial number. I tried putting in the number that starts H711 - but it tells me that is not the serial. Is it hiding somewhere else?

Thanks! I'm not seeing anything that starts with an S...is that the number that's with the bar code?

Yes. It's with a bar code. I should mention that I have a CC330, not a CC220, so I guess all bets are off...

The CC220 has been discontinued for a while now. Are you trying to register the product? I'm not sure what else you'd mean by registering at the graphteccorp website. I went there, and found my way to graphtec america, where I could register products, but the CC220 isn't on the list. The 330 is, however.

I am here http://www.graphteccorp.com/craftrobo/s ... index.html trying to download the software. I got the driver, but when I go to the Cutting Master or any of the ones after that, it takes me to a log in area. The previous owner had sheet of paper with a username/password, but it doesn't work here. I emailed GraphtecCorp in the meantime and hopefully they can help me out. Since it was the weekend I thought I'd try hunting around on the net and found this board. Thank you so much for your assistance thus far, I appreciate it!

Nope. The SD stopped being made sometime in the last 2 years and the Cameo is the replacement. It still works, by all accounts, but the registration marks are different, so it has a learning curve and takes some practice. Look around here in this forum for those tips and lessons learned.

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