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"Flushing" Tranny for torque bind

I'm following the advice of changing the tranny fluid a couple times to hopefully eliminate the bind. Question is how much should I drive between changes? Just long enough to get to operating temps and then drain and refill or should this happen several times first?

Well I've drained and refilled twice and it still comes & goes. May not be the cheap fix I was hoping for. Have enough DexronIII to do it one more time and see.

Subs are new to me and I have a tranny question. When I put it in Park it does like its supposed to but when I turn off the ignition it rolls a wee bit, just like I had the brakes on and let off. Is this normal?

Well I've drained and refilled twice and it still comes & goes. May not be the cheap fix I was hoping for. Have enough DexronIII to do it one more time and see.

Subs are new to me and I have a tranny question. When I put it in Park it does like its supposed to but when I turn off the ignition it rolls a wee bit, just like I had the brakes on and let off. Is this normal?

You are still supposed to set the handbrake.

What you are feeling is the car rolling up against the "park" pawl in the trans. This is a small tab of metal that engages the output drum of the trans. It's not good to leave the whole load of the car on the pawl. If it's a hill your parked on, you may have trouble taking it out of gear in the morning. USE THE PARKING BRAKE......don't just leave it in park.

Also, since you have torque bind.....there is some stress holding in the drivetrain between front/rear until you turn off the engine.....killing the ATF pump pressure and letting the drivetrain "relax"

Between that and not using the handbrake that is the rolling your feeling.

When I had the wrong solenoid in my trans, when it was essentially locking up in park/neutral, it would lurch when I turned the key off. It is a very distinct lurch, completely seperate from not using the P brake on a hill.

When I flush, I pull the radiator trans hose, drain and fill the trans and then start the car. The trans will pump out about 3/4 of a gallon, shut off the car and fill the trans again. Keep doing this until the fluid comes out clean. On the second or third start I hold the brake and shift through the gears a couple of times. Works great, pumps all the old stuff out first.

Its a lurch like CNY Dave described and like the relaxing after no ATF pressure like Gloyale says. The button is stuck in on the brake lever for now.

Imdew - I flush my truck like that. But you don't mean that you refill the trans and then do it do you? I realize these are different beasts but I run the truck until the fluid stops then IMMEDIATELY shut it down. This empties the TC on the old Dodge.

Lurch after turning the key off could be caused by the solenoid being bad or plugged or stuck (or same for the transfer valve itself) - that year, +12V fed to the solenoid releases the pressure, so if the solenoid does not work it locks the AWD.

That is less likely if the FWD fuse cures the problem- did the fuse have any effect?

Yes & no. When I put the fuse in it doesn't always light up the dash light and cancel AWD. When it does, it does seem to eliminate the torque bind. But then again, when in AWD, the torque bind comes & goes anyway...

The ATF temp light flashes when first start it up. I assume that is just the check light like all the others though? Seems like it does it after all the other lights go off now that I think about it. But it doesn't stay on. I'll need to pay attention next time.