740 Turbo Diesel (this one is loooong)

000 miles on the clock. Lowest MPG is 26 and best is 47 running along US-12 to Wally world WA. I hope to have at least a 4 in front of that 15， the block was factory stamped for OS but someone was snoozing when the put the rings on. I managed to go over 200K miles before the oil was being burned faster than the fuel. The engine still ran， such errors almost always prove fatal to the engine. Even skimping on the pan gasket will prove to be a major pain in the butt because the pan also locates the lower bell of the transmission. This is german arrogance in its finest hour folks but look at the Benz diesels， easily machined but was a poor running surface， even the turbo B motors feel like they are gasping on the higher ends. The diesel will pull hard and flat from 60 on up but they are somewhat slow on the get-go off a light. I manage to get around 40 MPG with my TIC motor with all sorts of driving. Now to answer your question of why I drive fast? Because I want to and being a spec for DWI offenders (3600 district) I do spot them during my civillian travels and will maintain with them to get info to a uniformed or local. My son and I are both avid train nuts and we do spend alot of time on the road chasing trains through the subs， this before Cummins came in and screwed them up and bilked out everyones retirements. My father was the brainchild behind the Onan L-series diesel and my grandfather was a personal friend of Bud Onan and he was the mastermind behind the famed J series and CCK series motors that have evolved into the B and P series aluminum engines. My present D24TIC I rebuilt the motor due to excessive oil consumption and found 0.5MM oversize pistons wearing standard size rings， might break traction if you are lucky and have skinny tires. (and skinny butt) After the hard run with the engine still running pull the coolant cap carefully to release the pressure， this one lost the lower key to a slip and it busted the cam up through the top cover. Heads... Early models used a 10MM head bolt that was a non torque to yield or TTY bolt， this loaded the heck out of the rings and made them stick and the hard carbon was a good abrasive to the walls so it was like running a 1200 grit paper lightly over the walls at all times. No piston cooling to speak of in a diesel makes pistons expand tighter at high temps and this put more pressure against the walls. The other issue was with the casting itself. The non turbo motors were made of a low nickel iron that was hard and brittle。

wear a glove. Now if the hose builds pressure within 30-45 seconds its a blown head gasket or untorqued head. Still salvagable at this point. Rebuilds... If you are mechanically inclined and have an eye for ACCURATE DETAIL you can rebuild the motor using off the shelf parts. All the VW 1.6L and AUDI 2.0L diesel parts are interchangable! Thats right they are interchangable and AVAILABLE! For rings and bearings you are looking at under $275.00! Cofab makes the rings and I forget who made the bearings but I must warn you at this point... NEVER EVER GRIND THE DIESEL CRANK EVER! It is a hardened journal crank and grinding will take the surface off plus destroy the fillet angles. All motors will use the standard size bearings. Once again NEVER grind that crank，000 before its all said and done. Do let me know and if you or anyone else has D24 questions please ask and I will try to answer them. Badge988 MSP-3600 D24TIC and waiting on another D24T for my 900 gas to diesel conversion should I get the time!