Here are a couple work in progress mods to adapt to the 300mm No Sag:I tweaked the front end to make room for an E3Dv5 so it is not exactly the same. The E3Dv6 may be too short, or you may be able to scoot it down in the mounting, somebody with one will have to confirm.

- Probe offset is 26mm- Total of (3) fans. Extruder motor, Hot end, and Part.- The fan mounts were quick and simple, so I gave the dimensions on the drawing to help if anybody wants to design their own.- Cable management is not incorporated yet.

2014-06-20: Added rear mount that will work with all versions.2014-06-23: Added short version of front end. Hopefully this will work better for E3Dv6 and Hexagon hot ends. Moved STL files over to Thingiverse.

ExtendY1405-ISO-2014-06-19.JPG

ExtendY1405-2014-06-20.JPG

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Last edited by Jon Lawrence on 2014-Jun-Mon-15-Jun, edited 8 times in total.

1405 Makers Simple 300mm Y Axis No Sag

Will number 3 on the print(fan) give clearance for an XL frame?Also the front rod clamps is a great add on!!Also,could you possibly leave space for a rear endstops switch?It may be important for people like me that are not too familiar with ramps yet,until I figure out how to reverse the Y endstops settings.

Munson wrote:Will number 3 on the print(fan) give clearance for an XL frame?Also the front rod clamps is a great add on!!Also,could you possibly leave space for a rear endstops switch?It may be important for people like me that are not too familiar with ramps yet,until I figure out how to reverse the Y endstops settings.

I don't have an XL and still don't have good files for one, so I am behind again here. Below is a top view with the Y arm fully retracted. It looks like things should clear on the left side.

ExtendY1405-Top-2014-06-19.JPG

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I have just ordered my first printer this past Monday the Printrbot Simple Makers Kit.I don't even have the kit yet and I'm already interested in the Y axis upgrade.So after some preliminary printing I plan to dive into the upgrade.I do not have a feel about how much PLA the parts will need.Could someone give me an idea please. I've already ordered on spoolbut I do not want to run out before all the parts are done.thanks

I have just ordered my first printer this past Monday the Printrbot Simple Makers Kit.I don't even have the kit yet and I'm already interested in the Y axis upgrade.So after some preliminary printing I plan to dive into the upgrade.I do not have a feel about how much PLA the parts will need.Could someone give me an idea please. I've already ordered on spoolbut I do not want to run out before all the parts are done.thanks

My E3D v6 came in today, and the only way it will work with the old 300mm Y no sag is if I use the mount that evanalmighty created called J Head Bowden bottom from the bowden on a simple thread, otherwise it won't clear the fan shroud.

The RRD Hexagon hotend that I'm using won't fit because it's too short and the cooling fins prevent it from getting through the mount and in to the extruder. I created an adadpter to hold it a bit lower but the hotend cooling shroud prevents me from mounting it. Would you mind creating a version without the hotend shroud? I need the space just around the 3 screws that secure the extruder.

I have just ordered my first printer this past Monday the Printrbot Simple Makers Kit.I don't even have the kit yet and I'm already interested in the Y axis upgrade.So after some preliminary printing I plan to dive into the upgrade.I do not have a feel about how much PLA the parts will need.Could someone give me an idea please. I've already ordered on spoolbut I do not want to run out before all the parts are done.thanks

if you are going to print everything with 20% fill, Cura estimates that its about 80 grams, so its about 8% of a 1kg spool.

First let throw this out there, my wife and kids left home for two weeks so I am trying to keep my idle hands busy.

Ok so I printed the 1405 front mount and got a chance to install almost everything. I am kind of working my way backwards so to say.

I really don't want to lose the X portion just yet. Everything looks good on the extruder mount, but, I have a E3Dv5 hotend. So can't speak for the Ubis or v6. Unfortunately I only have one 40mm fan at the moment and one 30mm(the one that comes with the hot end) I elected to use the RH fan mount for the cat track for the moment to try and manage some wires. Haven't installed the probe either, mainly because I am being a chicken about the firmware portion.

Are any of the other fans truly nessecary? I know the hot end instructions says it needs constant airflow but what about the tip fan? I read somewhere it was mainly for bridging?

Bellus wrote:Are any of the other fans truly nessecary? I know the hot end instructions says it needs constant airflow but what about the tip fan? I read somewhere it was mainly for bridging?

For print cooling I'm told ABS should only have a fan on for bridging, but PLA needs it most of the time. The all metal hotends all seem to need active cooling on their upper portions. I've never used a fan on my extruder motor, it barely gets warm (possibly it's a bigger motor, it came with the original printrbot simple beta kit).

Bellus wrote:First let throw this out there, my wife and kids left home for two weeks so I am trying to keep my idle hands busy.

Ok so I printed the 1405 front mount and got a chance to install almost everything. I am kind of working my way backwards so to say.

I really don't want to lose the X portion just yet. Everything looks good on the extruder mount, but, I have a E3Dv5 hotend. So can't speak for the Ubis or v6. Unfortunately I only have one 40mm fan at the moment and one 30mm(the one that comes with the hot end) I elected to use the RH fan mount for the cat track for the moment to try and manage some wires. Haven't installed the probe either, mainly because I am being a chicken about the firmware portion.

Are any of the other fans truly nessecary? I know the hot end instructions says it needs constant airflow but what about the tip fan? I read somewhere it was mainly for bridging?

the fan for the tip is definitely necessary. I have tested this by manually disabling my fan during a print and it didn't cone out well.

why not just install the 30mm fan for your hot end in the 40mm mount? if you have some cardboard you can make a quick and dirty 30mm to 40mm adapter so it can fit then you can print something when you're up and running.

not sure if the motor one is necessary, I actually have an extra fan attached to the extruder so the PLA doesn't get too soft and clog the extruder.

Skrotus wrote:The RRD Hexagon hotend that I'm using won't fit because it's too short and the cooling fins prevent it from getting through the mount and in to the extruder. I created an adadpter to hold it a bit lower but the hotend cooling shroud prevents me from mounting it. Would you mind creating a version without the hotend shroud? I need the space just around the 3 screws that secure the extruder.

Update: I realized if I was to allow this version to be mounted on the Printrbot Makers YZ plate, I needed an rear end that would work as well. I edited the top post to include a rear end that will work on all versions, and also added some of the double precision parts.

You don't have to install this as a double precision. If you only want the normal operation, just leave out the reversing bearings and tension the belt as usual.

My kit comes in today, but the aluminum extruder setup won't be here for a bit. So I reassembled my printer to start printing parts. I guess it would be good to have all needed parts printed and assemble the 1405 kit with the mods in one shot. Excited for what's to come Jon!

Jon Lawrence wrote:Update: I realized if I was to allow this version to be mounted on the Printrbot Makers YZ plate, I needed an rear end that would work as well. I edited the top post to include a rear end that will work on all versions, and also added some of the double precision parts.

You don't have to install this as a double precision. If you only want the normal operation, just leave out the reversing bearings and tension the belt as usual.

Skrotus wrote:The RRD Hexagon hotend that I'm using won't fit because it's too short and the cooling fins prevent it from getting through the mount and in to the extruder. I created an adadpter to hold it a bit lower but the hotend cooling shroud prevents me from mounting it. Would you mind creating a version without the hotend shroud? I need the space just around the 3 screws that secure the extruder.

Would you happen to have dimensions for the hexagon? Before creating too many derivatives, I would like to put it in the model and see if I can accommodate most hot ends in one or two versions.

Fair enough.

From nozzle tip to top the hotend is right at 55mm, the cooling fins start 14mm down preventing it from being fully mounted to the extruder through the mounting plate. The hexagonal cooling fins are ~18mm at their widest and 16.25 mm at narrowist

Like Radair I can clamp it in partially, but the lowest I've been able to get it is about 47mm from mounting plate to tip which is still a bit short and I'm not entirely convinced it's secure.

Looks like I'm going to need some new rods to use the double precision mod and still get my full 6". That's okay though as the rods don't cost me much and I've virtually got enough parts to build a new simple now so the old ones won't go to waste...

If your question is if it will fit on the stock wood 1405 frame, then the answer is no. If your question is if it will fit on the 300mm no sag (1405 or any other version) than the answer is yes. All the 300mm no sag's have the same rod spacing of 70mm and are interchangeable.

I upgraded to the new front end this weekend and i really like it. still have to figure out a better way to route my wiring from my ubis hot end but in all its a much cleaner and better setup compared to the original. I put in the new probe but still have not wired it up or upgraded my firmware to make it work. first test had the printer working quite nicely with nice smooth motion. thanks Jon for the great designs.

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Skrotus wrote:... From nozzle tip to top the hotend is right at 55mm, the cooling fins start 14mm down preventing it from being fully mounted to the extruder through the mounting plate. The hexagonal cooling fins are ~18mm at their widest and 16.25 mm at narrowist

Like Radair I can clamp it in partially, but the lowest I've been able to get it is about 47mm from mounting plate to tip which is still a bit short and I'm not entirely convinced it's secure.

I have edited the top post to include a "1405AlExtruderFront-Short" version that should accomodate the E3Dv6 and Hexagon better. If you try it please let me know how well it works out.

spitfirehauser wrote:... still have to figure out a better way to route my wiring from my ubis hot end but in all its a much cleaner and better setup compared to the original. ...

I added some mounting holes on the left side to accept the cable management mount if you are not using the part cooling fan in this location.Here are a couple images of the two configurations:

ExtendY1405-2014-06-23CableManagement.JPG

ExtendY1405-2014-06-23CableManagementShort.JPG

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Defy wrote:So john does the new 1405 use the same y rod spacing as the stock yz carriage? IE can i just print the new extruder mount and rear. Then ise the stock yz carriage?

Yes it will fit, but you will need longer 8mm linear rails.

The major benefit of the "300mm No Sag" (I really should have given that thing a better name...) YZ plate is it separates the bearings and supports them better. This gives a much more rigid assembly. With the stock YZ bearing plate you will see lots of "flex" in the Y axis as you increase the Y travel distance.

Bellus wrote:First let throw this out there, my wife and kids left home for two weeks so I am trying to keep my idle hands busy.

Ok so I printed the 1405 front mount and got a chance to install almost everything. I am kind of working my way backwards so to say.

I really don't want to lose the X portion just yet. Everything looks good on the extruder mount, but, I have a E3Dv5 hotend. So can't speak for the Ubis or v6. Unfortunately I only have one 40mm fan at the moment and one 30mm(the one that comes with the hot end) I elected to use the RH fan mount for the cat track for the moment to try and manage some wires. Haven't installed the probe either, mainly because I am being a chicken about the firmware portion.

Are any of the other fans truly nessecary? I know the hot end instructions says it needs constant airflow but what about the tip fan? I read somewhere it was mainly for bridging?

the fan for the tip is definitely necessary. I have tested this by manually disabling my fan during a print and it didn't cone out well.

why not just install the 30mm fan for your hot end in the 40mm mount? if you have some cardboard you can make a quick and dirty 30mm to 40mm adapter so it can fit then you can print something when you're up and running.

not sure if the motor one is necessary, I actually have an extra fan attached to the extruder so the PLA doesn't get too soft and clog the extruder.

So I picked another 40mm fan today, but they only had one, ended up installing the two 40mm and one 30mm fans. Then I found this 30 to 40mm adapter saving me a couple bucks, think it turned out good.

Jon Lawrence wrote:I have edited the top post to include a "1405AlExtruderFront-Short" version that should accomodate the E3Dv6 and Hexagon better. If you try it please let me know how well it works out.

The hexagon hotend does now reach the print bed with a decent amount of the top going in to the extruder and I can make a simple spacer to guide filament in. The only real problem is that the hotend cooling shroud directs air at the top of the heating block. I'd still prefer something with the shroud removed entirely so I can fit my adapter in, but I can see why you don't want to be maintaining too many versions and I can always just use the pre-1405 front.

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Skrotus wrote:The hexagon hotend does now reach the print bed with a decent amount of the top going in to the extruder and I can make a simple spacer to guide filament in. The only real problem is that the hotend cooling shroud directs air at the top of the heating block. I'd still prefer something with the shroud removed entirely so I can fit my adapter in, but I can see why you don't want to be maintaining too many versions and I can always just use the pre-1405 front.

I have adjusted the short version to use a 30mm fan which should keep it off the heater cartridge. The reason I don't remove the fan shroud completely is it also provides support for the Aluminum extruder. Some people were having heat issues and sagging front ends on the previous version, so here I wanted to include some more support, and it just worked out well to also be fan duct.

Have all the parts printed out, just waiting on my aluminum extruder kit to come in. Also trying to figure out if I should cut my 400mm rods to fit my 12"x9" aluminum bed or make something to adapt the bed without cutting the rods. I'd hate to cut up my rods and regret it later.

Jon Lawrence wrote:I have adjusted the short version to use a 30mm fan which should keep it off the heater cartridge. The reason I don't remove the fan shroud completely is it also provides support for the Aluminum extruder. Some people were having heat issues and sagging front ends on the previous version, so here I wanted to include some more support, and it just worked out well to also be fan duct.

That looks like it should work but I won't have a chance to try it out for a few days, will let you know.

Baedarlboo wrote:Have all the parts printed out, just waiting on my aluminum extruder kit to come in. Also trying to figure out if I should cut my 400mm rods to fit my 12"x9" aluminum bed or make something to adapt the bed without cutting the rods. I'd hate to cut up my rods and regret it later.

Don't cut your rods, there will be an X axis upgrade for the 1405 before too long that will allow any length rod to be used.

Baedarlboo wrote:Have all the parts printed out, just waiting on my aluminum extruder kit to come in. Also trying to figure out if I should cut my 400mm rods to fit my 12"x9" aluminum bed or make something to adapt the bed without cutting the rods. I'd hate to cut up my rods and regret it later.

Don't cut your rods, there will be an X axis upgrade for the 1405 before too long that will allow any length rod to be used.

Ari_Porad wrote:...How much longer do I need to make the rods than I actually want to be able to print?...

For the single precision setup, you will need at least 165mm longer than your print area.For the Double Precision, I would use a minimum of 200mm longer than your print area. The belt tension device sitting in the middle makes it rather bulky so some extra room here is helpful.

For anyone having issues with the melting front piece while using a Ubis, here is a quick fix I designed. Just screw it into the rear fan duct and you will add extra support the weak point of the front and add support to the E motor.

I just printed out my first modification part, 1405read-2014-06-23. The part looks ok, but since this is a new printer I'm checking a lot of things. The hole for the shaft appears to be 7.5mm, is this correct or is my printer a little off?

KD6HQ wrote:I just printed out my first modification part, 1405read-2014-06-23. The part looks ok, but since this is a new printer I'm checking a lot of things. The hole for the shaft appears to be 7.5mm, is this correct or is my printer a little off?

thanks

The hole is modeled at exactly 8mm. I usually clean mine up with a 5/16" drill bit and press them in. I find some quick clamps where you can reverse the end to be invaluable in assembly / dis-assembly. You can press the ends on as well as push them off, saves a ton of beating on the machine.

QuickClamp.PNG

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Munson wrote:Jon Lawrence,what cad program do you use?Also how long does it take for you to design a mod?I am always mesmerized by your work.I also want to say thank you for sharing your work with us !!!

I design in Solidworks. Hard to say how long it takes, I tinker during down time a little here and there. I am a machine designer by profession. Being able to be creative without the constraints of traditional manufacturing capabilities is just plain fun.

mummson wrote:I'm confused... are you talking about the fan mount and if so will this work with the XL tower upgrade?

That is the part in the back, opposite end of the extruder. No fan back there.

So it wont fit with the XL tower?

everything but the wood to the XL tower should work. I have seen people using the XL bed, and I have my own 1/4 acme thread rod and 8mm rod that allow me to increase the z to 600, but it is limited to 250 due to wire. hahaha.

Yep, nothing like having really nice (read as: expensive) CAD tools to use! Your designs typically have an aesthetic aspect, where most others are brute-force utilitarian. Have you tried other packages and did you find yourself more limited in them when it came to adding aesthetic curves, and so forth?

Yep, nothing like having really nice (read as: expensive) CAD tools to use! Your designs typically have an aesthetic aspect, where most others are brute-force utilitarian. Have you tried other packages and did you find yourself more limited in them when it came to adding aesthetic curves, and so forth?

Thanks!

I ended up getting a copy of solid works student edition for $20. As far as I can tell and have read, the only thing different is it says"not a professional copy" on it. I like the program and how easy to use/learn.

jwiede wrote:Yep, nothing like having really nice (read as: expensive) CAD tools to use! Your designs typically have an aesthetic aspect, where most others are brute-force utilitarian. Have you tried other packages and did you find yourself more limited in them when it came to adding aesthetic curves, and so forth?

I use SolidWorks as a part of my job so it is only logical to use it here. I am interested in other platforms, but unfortunately my interests far exceed my available time so taking the time to learn another cad package when I am so adept at this one just doesn't fit in at the moment.

The ability to design more organic shapes and structures is more a factor of experience than the specific cad package. I have over 10 years on SolidWorks using it daily, and AutoCad before that. One very nice thing about SoidWorks is how intuitive it is to learn. For the most part, you can stumble your way around and figure things out.

In the 1405 instructions it states to flip the Y axis plug on the board, and the end stop has moved. If you're assembling the 1405 upgrade with Jon's Y axis mod, do you keep the Y motor plug and end stop in the original configuration, or do you flip the plug and move the end stop to the front? I'm assuming they did this because moving to the belt it reversed the operation of the Y motor and axis movement...

Baedarlboo wrote:In the 1405 instructions it states to flip the Y axis plug on the board, and the end stop has moved. If you're assembling the 1405 upgrade with Jon's Y axis mod, do you keep the Y motor plug and end stop in the original configuration, or do you flip the plug and move the end stop to the front? I'm assuming they did this because moving to the belt it reversed the operation of the Y motor and axis movement...

Those are two completely separate items, be careful not to confuse them.

Here is a link that helps describe the X,Y,Z directions. Pay close attention to what direction is positive Y (head moving away from you). viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3484

Item 1, Y motor Plug: How you plug in the motor into the board defines what direction the Y axis moves. If you manually tell the motor to move in a positive Y direction, the value displayed on the screen should increase and the hot end should move toward the rear of the machine. Position 0,0,0 is always the front left corner on a simple. Do not confuse the Y movement direction with the home position. Plug in your Y motor whichever way makes positive Y move to the rear of the machine.

Item 2, Home location: The home location can be any location and does not have to be at X=0, Y=0, and Z=0. The original 2013 & 2014 Simples used position 0,0,0 (front left corner) as the home. With the relocation of the Y home switch on the 1405 model the home position has changed to X=0, Y=100 (or max), Z=0. The home position for each axis is defined as either "Max" or "Min" depending on where the switch is mounted. In the case of the 1405 model the Y home position has changed from "Min" to "Max".

Note: On my 1405 Simple YZ plate mod I have available mounting positions on both sides (Min & Max) so the Y home switch can be mounted wherever works best for you.

Not sure if I answered your question, or just stated something you already knew. Basically I would not attempt to reference if the plug is "flipped" or not from one version to the other, but rather just plug it in, see what way the axis moves, and if the axis is going the wrong way, power down & flip the connector. Once the motion direction is sorted out then tackle the home position.

Thanks Jon, makes sense. The instructions for the 1405 got me confused.On another note, anyone else having issues with the Y axis motor hitting the Z coupler? Looks like I have to raise my bed due to the interference, is this normal?

vcolombo wrote:...I'm going to order some new rods for this upgrade and was wondering if there's a maximum length that you would recommend?...

Maximum is only limited to how crazy you feel.

Add about 8" to whatever print area you want (for a double precision setup). Personally I don't think I would push the print area more than about 8" so rods around 400mm would work for me. If you are not so restricted on bench space, longer will not hurt anything so if you find some around 500mm for a good deal I wouldn't hesitate to pick them up.

Another question... I'm running into problems printing the extended Y plate. At the back of the print I'm hitting the Y stop and the back of the print is getting all mangled. Has anyone else run into this and, if so, have you managed to work around it somehow?

Another question... I'm running into problems printing the extended Y plate. At the back of the print I'm hitting the Y stop and the back of the print is getting all mangled. Has anyone else run into this and, if so, have you managed to work around it somehow?

vcolombo wrote:...Another question... I'm running into problems printing the extended Y plate. At the back of the print I'm hitting the Y stop and the back of the print is getting all mangled. Has anyone else run into this and, if so, have you managed to work around it somehow?...

Yes, skirt and brim need to be off. Also possible your slicing program is not centering the object on the build platform. If those don't work, try rotating it 90 degrees.

I actually don't have the heated bed hooked up right now. I'm able to print other things just fine, it's just when printing all the way at the back of the bed that things end up getting messed up. Just printed an iPhone dock and Jon's new calibration cube today without issue.

Thanks for all the suggestions, but I think I found the issue. It seems the wire bundle was getting caught between they Y motor and the back of the Y carriage, so when the Y axis moved all the way forward for large prints that are nearly maxing out the print bed, it wasn't making it quite far enough and throwing everything off just slightly. I moved the wire bundle out of the way and I'm a couple layers into a print of the extended Y axis plate. I'm a bit concerned that the wire bundle is going to move as the Z axis goes up, but I'll have to keep an eye on things and move it out of the way again if it does. Once this print is finished I'll have to find a way to make sure that can't happen again.

vcolombo wrote:Thanks for all the suggestions, but I think I found the issue. It seems the wire bundle was getting caught between they Y motor and the back of the Y carriage, so when the Y axis moved all the way forward for large prints that are nearly maxing out the print bed, it wasn't making it quite far enough and throwing everything off just slightly. I moved the wire bundle out of the way and I'm a couple layers into a print of the extended Y axis plate. I'm a bit concerned that the wire bundle is going to move as the Z axis goes up, but I'll have to keep an eye on things and move it out of the way again if it does. Once this print is finished I'll have to find a way to make sure that can't happen again.

Thanks again,

Vince

My wore bundle used to get in the way, strategic placements of zip ties resolved the issue.

mummson wrote:About the fans, do the extra fans get power from the psu or is it ok to daisy chain the fans to the PBboard?

I would wire it to the PSU, the the board will probably burn out if you try to run too many.

Alternatively you can wire the red wire of the fan to the rest wire of a USB port and the black to the black, then use a USB wall wart (the brick that comes with call phones and tablets) and you can run a fan off of the USB port.

mummson wrote:About the fans, do the extra fans get power from the psu or is it ok to daisy chain the fans to the PBboard?

I would wire it to the PSU, the the board will probably burn out if you try to run too many.

Alternatively you can wire the red wire of the fan to the rest wire of a USB port and the black to the black, then use a USB wall wart (the brick that comes with call phones and tablets) and you can run a fan off of the USB port.

Instead of attaching 2 fans to the fan port, attach a relay board.Then you can have several different devices attached to the fan portso that they all start when the fan does. For instance you couldhave some leds light up the printing area at the same time.This one happens to have dual relays but there are single ones also.

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