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Tradition, Tradition!

It's a tradition. First, we gulp down glasses of orange juice or sweet wine, then gobble a slice of sponge cake or something with chocolate chips to stave off the initial hunger. Later, when we get home to our tables, we gather round a collection of cheeses, fish and dairy dishes, which are customary to break the Yom Kippur fast.

That's the custom here in the United States. But the first food to break the fast differs for Jews in other countries, as well as for those who have emigrated here and who are determined to cling to their own customs. For Polish and Russian Jews, it might be a slice of sweet babka and a glass of lemon tea. Syrian and Iraqi Jews may nibble on ka'a'him - round, crunchy sesame cookies that resemble mini-bagels.

Turkish and Greek Jews will sip a sweet drink made with melon seeds. In my own Scottish home, my mother served homemade pickled herring and seltzer water, which were essential, she insisted, "to replenish liquids and salt lost during fasting."

This year, I'll bow to tradition, for there are those among us who would balk at a table without bagels, cream cheese and "maybe just a slice of that kugel." But to accompany the traditional platter and offset some calories, I plan to serve a delicate, lightly seasoned soup, along with an assortment of salads, all to be served chilled or at room temperature.

Middle Eastern herbs and seasonings make these dishes sparkle, but go easy - taste buds and palates are more sensitive after 24 hours without food or drink.

This may not be such a departure from break-fast customs. In Israel and other Mediterranean countries, where fresh produce is cheap and quality is high, Jews will be breaking the fast with salads, yogurts and cheeses. Baskets brimming with succulent fresh figs, dates and blushing grapes make for a stunning, edible centerpiece.

All the recipes below may be made a day or two ahead of time.

Simplify by using prepared vegetables or salads in a bag (remember to rinse first in cold water, even though it says prewashed), packaged rice mixes, chopped dried fruits and bottled herring tidbits.