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Make sure you have read the threads in the EFI section. I personally have the MS2 extra running just fine. The 3.57 board gave some guys fits with sync loss at higher RPM, but I believe this was fixed with a simple resistor.... ask Texas Twister (aka Ian). I don't run full sequential (requires 5 more driver chips) but he does. I have batch fire ignition and full fuel control.

Lazaby (aka Shannon) is working on mounting a TPS the same way that Darcom did. I didn't have to since I'm using a different throttle body/intake. You WILL need to either keep your idle air module (beware of it getting in the way of fuel rails) or use a new stepper motor type with pintle that goes into a machined aluminum block. Again, see threads. Air and water temp sensors are simple GM units IIRC. Make sure the incoming air one is not mounted in metal that soaks up engine heat.

I use 19 lb/hr injectors. I know Ian has bigger ones. The risk with bigger ones is that the open time at idle can be very short and less controllable, leading to rough idle. I'm able to get rock smooth idle with no shortage at high RPM.

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Just as an FYI, you can control the stock idle air valve with Megasquirt just fine. I've been doing that for a good year or so.

Do you have any pictures of it or is it in the stock location? I am using the stock intake with fuel rails. Does it matter if I relocate it due to not fitting? Any advantages to going to the Jeep 4.0 stepper version? Would be cheaper just to keep using it...
Appreciate the help. Thanks Mike!

Make sure you have read the threads in the EFI section. I personally have the MS2 extra running just fine. The 3.57 board gave some guys fits with sync loss at higher RPM, but I believe this was fixed with a simple resistor.... ask Texas Twister (aka Ian). I don't run full sequential (requires 5 more driver chips) but he does. I have batch fire ignition and full fuel control.

Lazaby (aka Shannon) is working on mounting a TPS the same way that Darcom did. I didn't have to since I'm using a different throttle body/intake. You WILL need to either keep your idle air module (beware of it getting in the way of fuel rails) or use a new stepper motor type with pintle that goes into a machined aluminum block. Again, see threads. Air and water temp sensors are simple GM units IIRC. Make sure the incoming air one is not mounted in metal that soaks up engine heat.

I use 19 lb/hr injectors. I know Ian has bigger ones. The risk with bigger ones is that the open time at idle can be very short and less controllable, leading to rough idle. I'm able to get rock smooth idle with no shortage at high RPM.

What is the difference between MS2 and MS2 Extra?
The TPS sensor i have listed above looks pretty straight forward, so I will probably use it unless there is a more inexpensive alternative that also provides a clean look.
I believe DPI sells an adapter that goes into the water pump for the coolant temp sensor. Know of a YMM or part number that is compatible?
Any recommendations on the same for the air intake sensor part #, YMM, as well as specific location with what you said?
DPI recommends 24 lbs injectors with twin turbo so I will stick with them.

If you can, stick with a PWM idle control valve - the stepper motors (in my experience) are much harder to tune, and get to behave consistently.
For the coolant temperature sensor, just remove the existing thermotime switch. Then drill out, and tap the existing adapter to fit the new coolant temperature sensor.

Just use GM sensors for everything. That's what Megasquirt plays most nicely with.

As for the product differences, you should really read the documentation to learn about the different systems. A lot of the questions you are asking are already answered there. Read the docs, and get to know them inside and out. This is complex stuff, you need to know the documented basics first. You can find everything at:

If you can, stick with a PWM idle control valve - the stepper motors (in my experience) are much harder to tune, and get to behave consistently.
For the coolant temperature sensor, just remove the existing thermotime switch. Then drill out, and tap the existing adapter to fit the new coolant temperature sensor.

Just use GM sensors for everything. That's what Megasquirt plays most nicely with.

As for the product differences, you should really read the documentation to learn about the different systems. A lot of the questions you are asking are already answered there. Read the docs, and get to know them inside and out. This is complex stuff, you need to know the documented basics first. You can find everything at:

I am using a Volvo 3-wire PWM valve (same as the D valve just slimmer) and it has been working fine. I do not believe you can use them with MS2 without ECU modification, though. I cannot remember what coolant sensor the stock engine has, the stock Volvo ('87 780) coolant temp sensor I'm using is 2 pin (ground/signal) and has been working great, I'm sure you can interchange this Volvo one and the D one if it makes things easier. Instead of finding an actual MAT/IAT sensor, I replaced my Bosch MAF sensor with a Ford 6-wire sensor that has MAT built in so I cannot comment on that sensor.

I'm using Ford EDIS for my spark control, the MS ECU is connected to the EDIS but the EDIS computer does all the calculating etc. I do have the stock front mounted distributor that I was going to use if all else failed. It would be great to run sequential but I have not done any camshaft position sensor research, perhaps one day.