Updates from the hills of Tuscany, a restored farmhouse in Chianti, midway between Florence and Siena. We write about local history and culture, life in Tuscany, the seasonal changes, pleasures of the garden and country kitchen, local stories and encounters with wildlife.

Sunday, July 21, 2013

San Leolino, Panzano

ACharming Church

the view from the church, looking west

It is a truth universally acknowledged that churches are to be found in the most panoramic sites. San Leolino, near Panzano in Chianti, is no exception.

The oft-cited explanationfor churches' prime locationsis: they got there first. More accurately: they frequently took over from other cults and civilizations which got there first. The Etruscans preferredhilltop sites for their towns and their necropoli,often situated on two adjoining elevations. (One wonders if it was simply for defensive reasons.) Panzano is a case in point: of Etruscan origin, it was also inhabited by the Romans who were keen on elevation, when available.

the elegant 16th century facade with its asymmetrical portico or loggia

San Leolino was founded in the 10th century: 982 CE to be precise. In its enviable position on the top of one of Panzano's hills, the church is visible from many vantage points. We see it on the northerly skyline from Le Ripe and it is one of the first features we point out to guests.

San Leolino and its bell-tower seen from Le Ripe: this view is side-on

Naturally the church has been restored many times, most recently in the 1940s when it was thankfully pared back to its original Romanesque stone structure: a nave and two aisles ending in apses with lovely simple arches between nave and aisles resting on sandstone pillars; above, timber rafters.

Perhaps the most charming aspect of this charming church is the cloister, situated on the southern side. Dating to the 13th century, the cloister is home to some plants - not the 'simples' of the middle ages, but pots of geraniums mostly - and a great deal of peace and quiet. The pillars are original and are interesting for their rounded bricks.

the tiniest cloister I have ever seen

The church proudly displays several works of art. The most ancient is the carved sandstone slab of the altar, from the 8th century. A painting attributed to Meliore di Jacopo of 'Our Lady enthroned between Peter and Paul', dated to about 1270, contrasts stylistically with the 14th century triptych by the 'Master of Panzano' depicting the Madonna and Child and the mystical marriage of Saint Catherine of Alexandria flanked by Saints Peter and Paul. The first work adheres to the stylized iconography of earlier centuries while the second evinces the warmth and expression of contemporaries of Giotto. Both are striking, so different from one another.

Behind the altar hangs a polyptych (1421), attributed to Mariotto di Nardo, portraying the incarnation of Christ and a series of saints including Saint Eufrosino, who preached in Chianti. The tabernacles on either side of the main altar are by Giovanni della Robbia (16th century).

view from church, looking north towards Panzano

San Leolino is also home to a small but active community, composed of priests and laymen, who live and work together as a religious collective studying the relationships between culture and religion. They promote a series ofcultural events and exchanges while living the contemplative life. And what better place to do so?

shelter and shade

As a visiting friend commented upon viewing San Leolino on a hot summer's day, "They [monks and their builders] were masters of shade." She was right: the cool church interior behind its thick walls of stone, the arcaded cloister, the rows of cypresses and some gloriouslinden trees casting deep shadow, must have provided respite over the centuries to those seeking comfort and guidance in this ancient place.

San Leolino is usually open but if it is not you can try ringing the bell to see if they will let you in. The cloister, to the right of the nave, is also not always open. I hope you are lucky when you visit...

The Pieve di San Leolino can be reached from the 222, the Chiantigiana, after Panzano going towards Radda, up a narrow road on the left. Or from the road which passes Cecchini the butcher continuing on to the unsealed road towards Volpaia. There are signs as you approach. In the summer the community of San Leolino organises concerts and other events.

Situated on a hillside, Le Ripe in Chianti has an orchard with heritage fruit trees, an organic vegetable garden, a row of 18 olives, wild figs, wild grapes, dozens of lavender bushes, a medieval hortus conclusus,a shrubbery, English roses and drifts of bulbs, all requiring labour and love but giving much pleasure in return.

The farm buildings, once home, stable, sty and byre, now renovated, host our friends and family. The cottage, a former barn, and two apartments in the main building, once stable and stall, are rented to guests who come by the week or longer. For more information on staying at Le Ripe, see our rental website.

Now out: Wide Awake

The diary of an Australian Milkmaid, 1882-1889

Em Munro writes her diary in late 19th century colonial Australia, a time and place rife with contradictions. Ordinary settlers struggle to make ends meet in a tough environment where the squatter class has claimed the best land. And the Indigenous Australians who thrived for tens of thousands of years on that land are dispossessed and crushed. Woman’s place is in the home but women’s suffrage is in the air; dreams of independence vie with romantic fantasies; new loyalties compete with old: life choices need to be made.Em is passionate but trapped in a provincial world with little stimulus and less scope for advancement. Her diary recounts her family’s story, her daily life but also her dilemmas and dreams and eventually her ‘getting of wisdom’.

Lily of Lonestorm

Threepenny Tales 2

Lily of Lonestorm is another whimsical Tall Tale for readers from age six. Lily's courageous search for her parents unfolds on her island in the Windy Western Ocean and on board the miraculous Seraphina, a ship with Special Potentiality. In the company of a most unusual band of pirates, a surly goat, some bad-tempered fowl and her best friend, rascally Rags, Lily braves Adventures on the high seas and explores uncharted territories, never losing Hope, Wonder and her love of Home.

FOR STORY LOVERS FROM AGE 6

The Adventures of Barnaby Twickins

Threepenny Tales 1

The Adventures of Barnaby Twickins is a whimsical Tall Tale for all readers from age six up. Barnaby's jaunty, often tongue-in-cheek story takes place in a 17th or maybe 18th century fantasy world of lace and cauliflowers, clogs and fripperies. Our Hero is a merry, plucky Boy who dreams of becoming a Clown and entertaining the World. Readers will enjoy meeting Barnaby's assorted surprising Companions, as well as sharing his Adventures with their dash of Romance and twist of Absurdity.

FOR STORY LOVERS FROM AGE 6

The Dove of Montségur

Medieval mysteries

Based on an historical episode, The Dove of Montségur evokes life in a singular medieval community, the tragic price paid for challenging the established order, and the possibility of redemption thanks to one girl's courage.

Dante's Gift

sequel to The Dove of Montségur

Medieval conspiracies

In humble celebration of the 750th anniversary of Dante's birth:If you are curious about the possible links between Dante Alighieri, medieval Florence, the Cathars and the Templars, have a look at this novel. Click on the image for the Kindle version.

Will's Way

a story of Shakespeare's childhood and youth

Shakespeare's Childhood Story

Little is known of Shakespeare's childhood and youth. Will's Way imagines how young William's family, his childhood experiences in Warwickshire in the 1570s and his particular moment in history may have inspired and motivated the man and writer he became. In addition, the novel contains a literary treasure hunt: over 160 quotations from Shakespeare's works have been put in the mouths of its characters. The reader is invited to spot the quotations and identify their sources which are to be found at the end of the book.

Evin of the Trees

Bronze Age imaginings

If the idea of a matriarchal society in bronze age Britain intrigues you, click on the image below for the Kindle version of this novel.

Leitha's Story Blog

For extra news, images and info on the books above, plus ideas on writing, see Leitha Martin's Story Blog

the heart of winter

twisted hazel

the heart of winter

stone trough and ice

the heart of winter

fig

the heart of winter

teucrium

the heart of winter

frozen grass

the heart of winter

a brave pansy

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Artemis

Goddess of the hunt, of wild animals, of the wilderness; the deer and the cypress were sacred to her. When I was a child and in love with ancient Greek mythology, after Athena, Artemis was my favourite goddess. If we dabbled in such things, she would be the patron of Le Ripe.

TROUBLE VIEWING BLOG PROPERLY?

Some browsers seem to have trouble visualising this blog as published (the side column slides down to the bottom or posts are missing). Try using Chrome or Firefox if you have problems...

TuscanArtGirl

a new website for readers from Holland, just launched by a friend: have a look at the original Tuscan works of art and craft

Table Affairs

a friend's website of delightful items for the table and home which I would like to share with readers; click on the image to see her site

Be a contributor

If you have a Google account you are free to make comments on this blog (see Comments link after each post). If you do not have a Google account, please write to Le Ripe, letting us know who you are and why you would like to participate. You will need an alias (preferably in Latin). We will then send you a request to join as an official contributor and ecco: you're in!Upupa Epops