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Kangchenjunga
2001
Last Updated 5/31/2001

Update
5/30/2001:
We finally reached Katmandu this morning after a
whole night of driving, and following a 3 days
strike that paralyzed the Country and forced us
to vegetate in a lousy hotel somewhere in the
SE. Our
expedition to Kangchenjunga (8586m) was a
success with 4 of us on the summit on May
15.

We
reached the SW face BC on Apr 12. The view of the
mountain was impressive at first sight because it all
seemed so complicated due to the wide fractured
glaciers that hanged from the "Great Shelf"
(7100m) and from the "Hump" (6300m). Camp 1
was installed finally on Apr 21. Due to the persistent
weather difficulties our Camp 2 would be put up by May
2 at 6900 meters. By then Markus had abandoned our
expedition because he was not psychologically prepared
to the complication of frequently doing the trail and
the extension and harshness of the route.

The
weather was very difficult because it snowed every
afternoon sometimes about 20cm which caused our trails
on the mountain to disappear. We had to do them again
anew in the following climb. In addition we were the
only team on the mountain. Later on RD [RD Caughron,
58, USA] also abandoned due to poor health and fear
that his heart might "fail" creating us
rescue problems. We left BC on May 8 with the
intention to continue to the summit. On May 10 we were
at Camp 2 but did not foresee the fact that we had not
yet found a way through the seracs onto the Great
Shelf. On May 11 we tried without success and on May
12 we found a very simple way through. On May 13 we
traversed the Great Shelf and camped
at 7700 meters inside a crevasse!
We took 2 tiny tents and slept with a lot of
discomfort: Piotr, Brian and me in one, Araceli,
Hector and Marty in the other. Next day my group
decided to move the tent 200 meters up to 7900 meters
and become closer to the summit. On May 14 Marty left
his tent at 23h and passed by ours by 2h. He took a
long time due to deep snow. We were also
getting prepared and Brian left by 2h30, me and Piotr
by 3h (we can't all get ready at the same time in such
a small tent designed to 2 persons!). Hector and
Araceli left by this time but unfortunately they could
not warm their feet and worried with the consequences
decided to descend.

We
spent the morning going up the "Gangway",
the 45 degrees couloir that leads to the West ridge. By
8h the weather started deteriorating with the wind
intensifying and the visibility decreasing. We then
diverted to the normal route couloir but it revealed
having too much accumulation of snow. Then
we retreated to and climbed the Gangway to its end and
followed the West ridge to the summit which we reached
by 14h.
We all descended safely although some of us still have
some numb toes and fingers. No serious frostbite
occurred.

Gonzalo
Velez

PS:
Only Piotr Pustelnik used oxygen to reach the summit.

Notes:

a.)
The USA climber is Marty Schmidt;
b) Our last camps were at 7600m and 7800m;
c) Araceli was our only female companion;

d)
Inside a crevasse is not at its bottom, but below its
lip which formed like a roof.

Update
5/31/2001 official results added:

Four
members of International New Millenium Kanchenjunga
Expedition has been successful on 8586 meters high Mt.
Kanchenjunga on 15th May 2001,1400 hrs.

Update
4/30/2001: On 2nd
April Piotr Pustelnik
was in Kathmandu and was trying to do some "shopping"
for food, climbing equipment, etc. Team change:
there's no Russ McBride, Brian Duthers (Swiss) is
added. This expeditions is the only one who will
attempt Kangchenjunga this spring. They have to make
it alone to the on top. More on: http://3razy3.onet.pl

Update
2/21/2001:Kang Millenium Expedition members

Goncalo
Velez, likes to quote, "From a certain point
onward there is no longer any turning back. That is
the point that must be reached." (Franz
Kafka)

Update
2/5/2001

Araceli
Segarra, who last year attempted K2, will attempt Kangchenjunga
this spring 2001. Araceli Segarra, who is best known
in the US for her role in the IMAX movie, in which she
reached the Summit of Everest, will attempt to be the
second woman to summit Kangchenjunga. Ginette Harrison
is the only woman to have reached the Summit. Wanda
Rutkiewicz, who most consider the greatest woman climber ever, died on Kangchenjunga
somewhere over 8000 meters while attempting by the
southwest face route.