you must nearly have a mental breakdown anytime you have to fit a non-factory part ! I used to work for someone like that

The cheap ass aussie gear is not really a copy at all. They have done thier own R&D work and produced very good products that have been designed to fit within the constraints of the Cleveland layout. Some further removed and some looking just like the original part but in all cases they work better than the original , if they were a 'copy' they would either exactly like the original or be more like one of the real cheap ass castings that is not a lot better as cast than the factory stuff, even then these are more of a copy of one of the aussie 'designed' parts. !!

Cast in china can these days mean 'really bad' or 'really good', its all down to how much the product designer pays the foundry. You can buy junk anywhere if you pay junk prices.

I've got a set of the AFD 4v heads on a 393 for a customer . Regardless of where they're cast they represent very good value. Similarly cast CHI units run some $600 more.
I'll be using a lot more of the AFDs in the future. At $1500 bare it's a no brainer.
Not sure if you've actually laid eyes on the Arrow block yet kazoom but I'd hardly call it a clevo copy!
Sure ,it's cast in China too but if it wasn't for that fact we'd be paying a lot more for an aftermarket cleveland block.

russxr67 wrote:
I've got a set of the AFD 4v heads on a 393 for a customer . Regardless of where they're cast they represent very good value. Similarly cast CHI units run some $600 more.
I'll be using a lot more of the AFDs in the future. At $1500 bare it's a no brainer.
Not sure if you've actually laid eyes on the Arrow block yet kazoom but I'd hardly call it a clevo copy!
Sure ,it's cast in China too but if it wasn't for that fact we'd be paying a lot more for an aftermarket cleveland block.

Hi russxr67 , good to see you on here , as long as quality isn't sacrificed for price ? Price wise manifold and heads just under 2K definitely a good buy.

Wasn't AFD heads cast/machined by Harrop engineering ? early days.

Many!! Many!!Many!! Many!!Many!! Many!!Many!! Many!!Many!! Many!! products are made in china and packaged/sold in the USA LOL????

Any chance you have a port picture of a 2V fully ported that you can release? I always thought they were duds because all I ever saw were people do a bunch of work and end up with 230cfm intake ports.

The trick is all in the valve size, because the correct valve size allows you to put the correct shaped SSR in to get the higher flow.
4V 2.19" valve is so big that the air has to turn under the SSR, as opposed to a 2.09" - 2.1" valve where the air has to only turn down like a in conventional port.
Blow out the bowl in every direction, Blow out the runner in all directions except the floor. And remove the pushrod restriction on the left of the port when looking at the intake flange.

Start playing with a 2.08" valve first on a test head, and see how big you can go before it starts hurting flow - the SSR shape is critical -

- Have guys done this with a 4v head? Would be interesting to see power potential of a properly ported 4V with a 2.12 or 2.15 valve and even 1.6 exhaust (if possible)

RL wrote:
The trick is all in the valve size, because the correct valve size allows you to put the correct shaped SSR in to get the higher flow.
4V 2.19" valve is so big that the air has to turn under the SSR, as opposed to a 2.09" - 2.1" valve where the air has to only turn down like a in conventional port.
Blow out the bowl in every direction, Blow out the runner in all directions except the floor. And remove the pushrod restriction on the left of the port when looking at the intake flange.

Start playing with a 2.08" valve first on a test head, and see how big you can go before it starts hurting flow - the SSR shape is critical -

- Have guys done this with a 4v head? Would be interesting to see power potential of a properly ported 4V with a 2.12 or 2.15 valve and even 1.6 exhaust (if possible)

remember, the cast iron 4V head was originally designed with/for a 2.23" int valve.

the cast iron 4V head works BEST with a 2.25" (or even bigger 2.30"-2.35") int valve.

last thing you want to do is try putting a small pos "2.08" 2V type valve in it.

again, for small ci eng's just use a port insert/tongue/filler/stuffer for more port velocity.