EN Summary: So the journey begins. Susan Khalje’s jacket pattern has proven to be a great base pattern for the jacket that I’ve envisioned and her video class has been invaluable throughout this process (her approach on how to produce a mock-up garment, aka muslin, and fitting it is so on point!) In this article I explain how I picked the right pattern size, the alterations prior to cutting the muslin and the adjustments that I made after putting the muslin on.

EN: I opted for Susan Khalje’s pattern that came with her French jacket video class because I liked the princess seams on the back (not just on the front) and also loved the 3-piece sleeve design with the outside vent. This pattern is designed for hook&eye closure along the center front but an overlap can be added if an overlapped button front closure is desired. Also note that the pattern doesn’t include seam or hem allowances. This pattern is also available for purchase (you don’t have to subscribe to Susan’s video class to get it), but I highly recommend her video class if you can afford it (it’s the next best thing when compared to attending to her workshop in person). If you plan on making such an investment, do watch her videos before purchasing the materials for the jacket; her insight on fabrics, notions and what to look for when making the jacket is invaluable information. The pattern comprises all sizes (4-24) and on the pattern envelope there’s a size chart with the finished garment measurements for each size (bust, waist, hip, width lower edge and back length from base of neck). I opted for a size 14 which comprises the amount of ease that I find necessary and copied the pattern to tracing paper. On this new traced pattern I will make my base alterations.

EN: Added the overlap to the center front. After carefully measuring the pattern I knew I’d need to shorten the length by 4 inches on both the jacket and the sleeves. I also widen the cuff vent overlap because I plan on hand-sewing buttonholes on it. The next photo shows the cuff alteration on the upper front sleeve piece:

EN: Finally all the pattern lines except the grain lines and notches are machine-stitched using a long stitch length and contrasting color thread (this makes them visible on the right side of the muslin) and after a final press the mock up is ready to be assembled:

EN: All this procedure, traditionally used in Couture, is explained step-by step with great detail by Susan in her videos. She shares a lot of tips and useful advice along the process and my goal here is not to disclose all the information, just give you an idea of the main steps along the way. I constructed the jacket’s body and my calculated length was right as I wanted it to be. As I suspected by pre-measuring the pattern I had to let out the shoulder seams a little bit. Then I attached the sleeves and tried the jacket on one more time; the jacket hanged well on the shoulders but the shoulder seemed a little wide to my taste (note that I will not use shoulder pads); personally I like it a little bit narrower with a round sleeve cap so I went on with the alteration as shown below:

EN: Here’s the back of the muslin (only the right sleeve/armhole was altered at this point):

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PT: Aqui podem ver as costas (só a manga/cava direita foi alterada):

EN: Of course I will have the chance of proofing all these alterations when constructing the jacket for real. Sometimes what looks good on muslin doesn’t translate as well to the fashion fabric and that’s why the fitting is an interactive process that goes along the entire construction. It’s also very hard to fit one self. Looking at mirrors, taking photos, trial and error and eventually things will add up (hopefully). A dressform padded to our exact body measurements and shape along with a dressform arm would help too. Also note that there is a fair amount of personal preference involved in the process; what looks good to me may be off from another one’s point of view.

Once I was happy with the muslin I took the chance to get an idea of the pocket placement (there will be four patched pockets) and determine the button placement along the front. I think I will round the pocket's bottom corners a little bit and perhaps the outside vent overlap… Finally the muslin will be disassembled, all allowances cut off and it will be used as a pattern to cut the fashion fabric. More on that later!

It looks great already! Did you also took in a bit one side or am I imagining it? I'm encouraged by how lovely the pattern looks, I have also bought it as well and one of the reasons was that it looks fitted, not boxy. Just like you, I've been dreaming little black jackets since I've seen the video about the making of. I actually have everything I need in my stash but first I would like to drop the extra weight brought by quitting smoking. Grr.I'm watching every second of your journey here and on FB and I'm enjoying it like crazy. Hope you hear my cheering from the gallery :) xxx

LauraLo: I didn’t take in at the sides, maybe it’s the pockets (I was just trying to find a good placement and didn’t bother to pin them on both sides). I hear you about weight gaining after quitting smoking… 13 years ago I gained 5Kg. Then was the struggle after my pregnancy and now, well, I’m 44 years old and I find it a LOT more difficult to control my weight. Last week I went back to the gym after a one year absence…I am literally obsessing over this jacket since I first watched the movie; it felt like this is the jacket of my dreams! I have to make one and I will probably won’t stop at one (all the ground work will be done already so it will be easier). I am already hunting for ivory boucle ;).Many hugs from Portugal,

Oh Tany and I'm almost 43 :)Regarding the boucle, have you tried Linton Tweeds? They have amazing fabric. I ordered twice the sample pack from them (a variety of samples from their new collection) and they are gorgeous! And legendary, of course...

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