Not a babe in the woods: the diary of a female naturalist

The things they won’t tell you on any safari

How it all began The countryside looked a photoshopped green as the train chugged past dense tree thickets interspersed with streams and paddy fields. I was reporting for the naturalist training programme by Tajsafaris, at the periphery of the Bandhavgarh National Park in Madhya Pradesh. I was to join the first batch of the professional naturalist training school in the country, back in the monsoon of 2006. My excitement was mounting but it was mixed with a sense of complacence. This was my backyard—my ancestral home was barely a two-hour drive away. I knew the local dialect, I was familiar with forests and its creatures. How difficult could it be? Famous last words.

Turns out the naturalist training would make most boot camps feel like a little girl’s sleepovers. We were housed in makeshift accommodation: a narrow building with several rooms in a row, and spartan interiors. By virtue of being the only girl on the course, I had a room all to myself. I did not get a mirror. The boys did—they had to shave and I didn’t. In the jungle, luxuries have to be prioritised. Each day, a little before dawn, I made my way to the vehicle shed. By the dim light of a single naked bulb, I’d use the rear view mirror of a safari jeep to comb my hair and wear my kohl. (I just cannot live without kohl in my eyes!)

This first round of training lasted almost six months. I was determined to make my tiny room a little stylish. So, I took my neighbour’s bamboo dustbin, bored a hole in it and hung it upside down to make a lovely lamp. Stars cut out of golden chocolate wrappers gave my plain khadi curtains a hint of glamour. Did someone say jungle chic?

A typical day in my life…Ratna SinghIn the jungles, the only thing that remains the same is the time you start your workday—well before dawn breaks. Typically, a naturalist spends eight to 10 hours out on safari. We also take guests on nature treks, covering anywhere between 3 kms to 10 kms. Needless to say, it is a physically demanding job. The evenings are spent around a fire, sharing cocktails and swapping stories. Maybe a spot of stargazing to wind up the day. The hotel properties in the wilderness have to adapt and be conscious of the jungle creatures. After monkeys started stealing guests’ laundry when the clothes were drying outside, the lodge had to add a disclaimer on its laundry form! A naturalist is trained to be a ‘single functioning unit’. We are taught outdoor first aid, animal behaviour and tracking, hosting, how to mix cocktails, and above all, how to keep a sense of humour. The hours are long, but there are no deadlines and no carrying work home.

Jungle epiphanies Living and working in a luxury hotel, yet being located in some of the most remote places in the country, I’ve been able to interact with people who are leaders in their field, the rich and famous. At the same time, I count among my friends people from local communities who are desperately poor. I have come to realise that the underprivileged are rich in different ways: everyone has a home with a kitchen garden and plenty of space for kids to play, all festivals are celebrated with fervour, and most of all, they breathe the cleanest air you can find in the country. At the same time, I do not wish to romanticise rural life. I have memories of many incidents that still make me teary. We once went to a school catering to a cluster of villages. It had no electricity. Looking inside the little classroom, I was amazed to see an electric fan painted on the ceiling! On asking the children about it, one of them shyly answered that one of their aspirations was to have an electric ceiling fan. (The company distributed solar lamps to all kids in the school).

Khaki Fever The term ‘khaki fever’ is an import from Africa, where wildlife tourism is very well established. It refers to the phenomenon of visitors to the wildlife areas who end up developing a soft spot or a crush on their ranger or naturalist. Typically, a naturalist’s jungle uniform is khaki or olive green. Plus, they’re always comfortable working in the wild, driving 4x4s, and seemingly unafraid of the animals and perils of the jungle. So, the male naturalists definitely appear more ‘macho’ than those visiting the safari camps from cities. I have recollections of a few evenings, sitting up way past dinner, and acting as a chaperone to some of my male colleagues. Some lady or the other was always getting sweet on them, and the boys would ask me to stick around to ensure the evening stayed professional!

In the Indian setting, I have found people getting rather intimidated by a woman in what appears to be a tough role.

Several years ago, a group of young men in their fancy private SUV were tailing me in the jungle. I passed through a stream, which required a tricky bit of vehicle manoeuvring. When the men behind me passed the same stretch, they got stuck. I carried on, and returned half an hour later to find them in the same spot, still struggling. They didn’t know exactly how to use their four-wheel function. The accompanying tracker in that vehicle stopped me and asked for help. I was able to get the vehicle out safely. But the men were so embarrassed they couldn’t look me in the eye!

Animal encountersPhoto: Robert Harding Picture Library Ltd/AlamySince my area of operation is the wilderness, of course I’ve had several, very close encounters with animals, including leopards and tigers. Once, I was helping a colleague in the jungle who had a flat tyre. As we were both working on the ground, a tiger suddenly appeared from a rocky outcrop barely five metres from where we were. We stood unmoving, and the tiger calmly walked away.

Once, when I’d just started the training course, I entered my room late at night and found a gigantic scorpion on the floor. I let out a yelp, and asked my team mates to come to my rescue. A tired voice down the corridor asked if the scorpion was on my bed. “No!” I yelled back. “It’s on the floor! What should I do?” The benevolent voice in the darkness responded, “Get onto the bed and go to sleep-don’t disturb everyone”.

Then there was a rat snake that lived on my roof for close to a year, sometimes coming down into my cottage. It was non-venomous, so I wasn’t overly bothered. However, there was a cobra that lived in an abandoned termite mound outside my cottage, whom I gave a wide berth to. The cobra eventually ate the rat snake. Sigh, it’s the circle of life.

Celebrity-spotting We may live in the jungles, but it does not mean that we are bereft of our quota of the glamour world. I’ve had the fortune of guiding several celebrities from different fields. Mr Amitabh Bachchan was a highlight. When people in the park got wind of him being around, everyone started following my vehicle. I had to keep dodging the crowd in the park in order for him to be able to see at least a few animals!

Actor Rahul Bose was so much fun. He is a huge lover of nature and interested in all aspects of the jungle. We were driving along leisurely and were so engrossed in chatting that we nearly overlooked a tigress heading our way.

I once guided Gary Kirsten, when he was the coach of the Indian Cricket team. He offered me VIP passes for the cricket matches being held, but I declined as I am not cricket crazy. My male colleagues nearly killed me for my folly.

Being one of the guys I dress like the men, and put in as many hours of hard work. I’ve endured slapstick humour and drafted a million emails and reports on behalf of my colleagues. Not only have I been given various nicknames, but I was presented a set of stick-on moustaches and made an ‘honorary man’. I have, for years, had ringside seats to a man’s world and taken many valuable life lessons. But more than anything, I have known wonderful friendship and a sense of belonging to a clan—that’s very hard to replicate in an urban work environment. This is an environment where you think nothing of handing over your ATM card to anyone going to town to withdraw cash for you. I’ve grown used to people taking my picture as I drive the safari vehicle. I was referred to as ‘Sir’ by a lot of the forest staff or guards, since they hadn’t seen too many women in a position of any power.

What it takes to be a naturalist In no other profession does ‘loving your job’ hold as much value or weight as in the jungles. If you think about it, this is not just a profession; it will be your whole life. Unlike the cities where you go back home after the day’s work, you cannot escape here. You live and work in the same place.

Physical fitness levels must be above average. You must have a scientific bent of mind, with a passion for some research. You must be ethical in large measure, have lots of patience, and top it all off with a sense of humour.

Travels in the wild Holidays for me too, are to other areas of wilderness. I have had the fortune of travelling to various parts of the country as well as to Africa to see some fabulous landscapes and animals. Recommended trips:

Dachigam national park in Jammu & Kashmir: Almost all of the safaris are on foot and one has the chance to spot the Himalayan Black bears and Hangul, a charismatic deer. The birding is fabulous and landscapes stunning.

The rainforests of Western Ghats: I remember them as a wall of green. By the end of the day, I would be covered in leeches. Since tobacco is said to deter leeches, I would wear two pairs of socks with a layer of tobacco between them.

Chitwan national park in Nepal: The tall elephant grass and the rhinos make for very interesting safaris.