This is a discussion on Running new speaker wires inside the front doors of a 2012 WRX Sedan within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; Has anyone run both a 14 gauge and 16 gauge wire through the front doors of a WRX yet? From ...

Running new speaker wires inside the front doors of a 2012 WRX Sedan

Has anyone run both a 14 gauge and 16 gauge wire through the front doors of a WRX yet? From what I am see, it appears that I can get away with disconnecting the boot at the body side outside the kick, disconnecting the molex plug in the kick, pulling the molex out between the door and the body, then snaking the wires through the boot. I'd be willing to bet that typing it out is way easier and faster than actually performing that task.

My reason for doing so is that I am planning on running my midrange and tweet active, and I think the factory wire is a tad bit small for the job. Also, I don't want to hack up any of the factory wires to make the vehicle easier to return to stock. Further more, no matter how you slice it, I'll still be running at least ONE new wire into the door due to the fact that the factory tweeter is split off the existing wire.

Now for a totally off the wall point... Why is it when I keep all the stuff pristine to return the vehicle back to stock, I never have the need to return the vehicle back to stock? Conversely, when I don't preserve the OEM parts to return the vehicle back to stock, I end up wishing I could have returned the vehicle back to stock.

Hello, coming from some shop experience I will give you my personal account of your situation. I have in all my time as an installer in a shop never needed to run new speaker wiring because a wire looked like it wasn't enough. If you are going for a sound competition sound complete with a 4 channel amp to your speakers and looking for the most sound quality you can get I would go the route you are going. Running through the boot is absolutely the only correct way to do that install. Having wires hang out your door or tied up around the boot is a bad choice, leaves the wire out to the elements. A hook tool will work well for you to disconnect the boot, should be as simple as hooking in and pulling out, may require a little force. Zip-ties are your best friend when it comes to this kind of work so make sure you zip tie to some factory harnesses underneath your dash coming from your deck.

As for your second point, that just seems to be how it is haha. Everything works great when you have a backup plan! Take pictures if you have time for others to see on the forum and get an idea of your DIY install. This way you can help some others who are stumbled or if you have a question someone can give you a more direct answer from the pictures. (This wiring stuff can be kind of confusing sometimes).

Well, for the last 5 years or so, I became spoiled with active crossovers and time alignment. Besides, if I were to go passive and install the crossover inside the door while tapping into the factory wires, Murphy would bite me in the bum and make a capacitor, resistor, or inductor break loose from the passive crossover's circuit board. The worst thing I ever encountered with installing the passives in the doors was having the circuit board itself snap. For some reason I am snake bit when it comes to installing crossovers in the doors because they don't like that sudden stop from closing the door.

This is what is set to go in the vehicle:
HU - Pioneer DEH-80PRS
Amp - Alpine PDX V9
Front Comps - Genesis Profile 16 run active
Sub - a Digital Designs 1508 that I have on hand. I'm going to try to make it somewhat easy to remove for the 2 times a year I fold the seats down to transport longer things back from Home Depot.

I'm on the fence about going with a sealed 10" sub and the Audio Integrations enclosure because I have yet to be impressed with the low frequency response of a single, sealed 10" sub that modeled with a predicted F3 near 60 Hz.

When you remove the door card you will find the existing bunch of wires taped to the opening of the boot. I made a small nick in the tape & ran the wire through it using a coat hanger. The boot can be removed from either side. It took me a while to figure out how to put it back though. There is only one way to reinstall it. You will find ,if I remember correctly, 3 grooves,one at 12 o'clock ,the others at 4 & 8 o'clock. They have to match up to the white plastic frame.

When you remove the door card you will find the existing bunch of wires taped to the opening of the boot. I made a small nick in the tape & ran the wire through it using a coat hanger. The boot can be removed from either side. It took me a while to figure out how to put it back though. There is only one way to reinstall it. You will find ,if I remember correctly, 3 grooves,one at 12 o'clock ,the others at 4 & 8 o'clock. They have to match up to the white plastic frame.

I hated every minute of it but was able to fish the wires through using super long zip ties taped to the wire.

As for the PDX-V9, it exhibited noise and is gone. The DEH-80PRS, while a good processing unit, has less than useless BlueTooth. Then, making matters worse, within the last two weeks the pico fuse popped upon restarting a stalled car. So that is next on the docket to go!

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