RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

Beautiful stone and great climbing! Some serious caution is needed, however - only 9 bolts protect this 115 foot long route, and gear placements are few and often nonexistent.

Finding it: Go to the Horse Creek crag via the described ladder. Follow the trail down canyon all the way past the highly developed shady side routes. After you leave the last bolted cragging area, continue on down canyon for a few hundred yards.Look for a fairly prominent trail toward the sunny side (at this point it becomes more prominent than the faint trail that continues down canyon).

Follow this across the creek (may be inaccessible during high water) to the base of a large overhanging buttress. The base of the buttress has an awesome flat area with several big flat boulders that make great tables, chairs, whatever.

Sepultura starts up the right overhanging arete, climbing 11+ moves on beautifully sculpted huecos through several somewhat spaced bolts.Be a bit heads up through the start - blowing a clip would be bad news. However, this portion is reasonably safe.

Around the 4th bolt, you will face a mandatory 20 foot runout. This starts with an 11 move above the bolt and then eases up until you reach a easy but scary standup on to a ledge to clip the next bolt.You can ameliorate the fear here with a 2 inch cam (with a long sling) which can be placed prior to standing up.

From the ledge, make the next clip and do a burly sidepull maneuver that allows you to reach a series of slopers (12a/b). You will want a fairly attentive belay here - the ledge is somewhat ankle threatening.Climb up some 11a terrain that eases up and then allows access to a stellar arete.

Continuous and pumpy 12a/b moves pull through the arete, which is fairly well-protected by 3 bolts.

From here break right onto the featured face and clip the last bolt at about 85 feet. Then run it out 30 feet to the anchors.The runout starts at 5.10, but then eases as you go until it drops into the 5.5 range just under the anchors.You can try to place some gear (small TCUs) on the face as you go, but I wouldn't count on anything holding a fall.

Some locals told me that Dan Osman gave this 12a - he might be right but I think it is a bit harder than that by mere mortal standards. I think 12b is probably more accurate, but maybe that is quibbling. Just don't expect an overgraded 5.11.

The climbing is great- this line would warrant 3 stars if it weren't a bit dangerous. I think another 2 or 3 bolts would have been ideal, and still left it somewhat runout and spooky.This is a good line for a headpoint - if you have all the moves rehearsed, there are a couple of good resting points and you can do it safely.But it makes for a dangerous onsite, unless you can gnarl like Dan Osman.

Protection

9 bolts to anchors at 115 feet.

Recommended supplemental gear: A 2" cam with a long sling, and a collection of small TCUs.

Three bolts to a #3 Camalot with a long sling to six more bolts. Past the last bolt there's a horizontal that might take a 0.4 or a 0.5 Camalot. 70m cord required. Bring a knife and a pair of quick links to update the death anchor. Great route!

Yes, serious PG-13 is more like it. First couple of clips are critical, then there is a spot after bolt 4 with a runout, followed by a ledge that might result in a broken ankle if you mess up. Then a long but easy run-out at the end.

If you are used to bolting at say, Shelf Road or the RRG, this will seem quite dangerous. But it isn't all that bad if you are solid at the grade.