Whirlpool dryer not heating

This is the most common symptom we hear on all brands of dryers. One of the appliance parts most of us suspect first is the heating element (see common Whirlpool elements below), but there are several other appliance parts on the dryer and one item that is not on the dryer that can produce the same symptom. You will save time, energy, and money if you will take a few moments to prove exactly which part is bad before purchasing a replacement part.

The one appliance part that is not on the dryer is a blown circuit breaker (located in your home’s main circuit breaker box). The dryer will turn if it is getting 110 volts, but it must be receiving 220 volts to heat. Many dryer circuits have two circuit breakers installed to power the dryer. A lightning strike nearby or power surge can cause one breaker to blow and not the other. Resetting the circuit breaker fixes the dryer and you did not even get your hands dirty. A blown circuit breaker happens often enough to make it the first item we recommend checking when a dryer turns but does not heat. It is always fun to get an easy fix.

The next appliance part to check is the heating element, because it is easy to prove if it is good or bad with a visual inspection. Whirlpool usually locates the heating element on the back of dryer (must remove back of dryer) or under the drum (must remove front dryer). Be certain to disconnect power from dryer. Heating element coils look like stretched out door springs. A bad dryer heating element will have a break in the coil. The dryer element is good if no break is detected. A close inspection is required as some breaks tend to hide among the coils. You can use a multi-meter and check the continuity of the element. “No continuity” indicates a bad heating element. Continuity, however, still requires a visual inspection as broken coils may still touch when cool.

Having proven that the circuit breaker is not blown and the heating element coil is not broken, it is time to look at the fuses and thermostats on the dryer. I have included pictures of the common thermostats and fuses. These are located on the heating element and on the blower housing. Call U-FIX-IT with your model number for the exact location of these parts on your dryer. Use a multi-meter to test the fuses and thermostats for continuity after removing the wires, or you can bring them into U-FIX-IT and we will test them for you, free.

Steve,
I would need a model number and a wiring diagram to give meaningful advice. Most dryers have a wiring diagram located somewhere within the dryer. You can call the nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store with your model number for free diagnosis assistance. We can tell you where thermostats and fuses are located. A continuity test can prove if these are good or bad, or they can be taken to the U-FIX-IT store for free testing. Thank you for you inquiry.
Jim

Could really use some advice. We have a whirlpool dryer that runs, spins but will not heat. We have replaced the heating element, thermal fuse and the thermostat. Still not heating. We know it’s not the outlet or anything regarding the breaker as a different dryer runs and heats fine. Any advice would be so appreciated. Thank you!!!

Carlee,
When randomly testing the components fails to identify the problem, I switch to a troubleshooting system that will isolate the problem. I test for voltage using the wiring diagram as my road map through the circuit while the dryer is running. I always start at the terminal board where the cord attaches to the dryer. I look for 220 volts on the two outside posts and 110 volts from the center post to each of the outside posts. Shining a bright light on the terminal board will allow inspection for a burned wire or terminal post. If everything tests good there, I will move to the first component in the 220 volt circuit (heater circuit) reading the voltage by placing a test probe on each side of the component. If voltage reads “zero,” the component is good. If the voltage reads 220 volts, the component is bad. By working my way through the heater circuit while the dryer is running I will be able to isolate which component is bad. The U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store will be happy to give you free diagnosis assistance by phone if you need it. Thank you for your inquiry.
Jim

Thanks for your insight. I have taken apart my Frigidaire Dryer model FER641FSO, cleaned all of the lint out of the system, filter and blower fan (it was everywhere), and all of the circuits and fuses have continuity. I have not yet checked the power coming into the dryer but will reset the breaker to determine if this is the issue. If the dryer still will not heat, what do you recommend?

KH,
When randomly testing the components fails to identify the problem, I switch to a troubleshooting system that will isolate the problem. I test for voltage using the wiring diagram as my road map through the circuit while the dryer is running. I always start at the terminal board where the cord attaches to the dryer. I look for 220 volts on the two outside posts and 110 volts from the center post to each of the outside posts. Shining a bright light on the terminal board will allow inspection for a burned wire or terminal post. If everything tests good there, I will move to the first component in the 220 volt circuit (heater circuit) reading the voltage by placing a test probe on each side of the component. If voltage reads “zero,” the component is good. If the voltage reads 220 volts, the component is bad. By working my way through the heater circuit while the dryer is running I will be able to isolate which component is bad. The U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store will be happy to give you free diagnosis assistance by phone if you need it. Thank you for your inquiry.
Jim

My Maytag dryer runs won’t heat all the time. I cleaned all lint out of exhaust pipes and lint trap then tested all thermal fuses, thermostats, drive motor switch, and checked heating element for any breaks or cracks and all rest good. I am at a loss as to what my problem is.

Steve,
Intermittent malfunctions can be the most tedious to find. I would be looking at air flow first. Insufficient air flow can cause the heater to overheat and “short cycle” on the high heat thermostat. There are two “not so obvious” causes of insufficient air flow.

First: The lint screen can be tested for a clear coating by removing any lint and running water onto the screen. The water will bead on the screen and resist flowing through if it has accumulated a clear coating. Scrubbing with a brush and detergent will remove the coating and allow the water to flow easily through the screen.

Second: The plastic blower wheel can become worn allowing the motor shaft to turn inside the blower wheel. If blower wheel will rotate on the motor shaft while holding the motor pulley (on the other end of the motor) then the blower wheel needs to be replaced to correct the air flow problem.

Call U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts for free diagnosis assistance if these two tests fail to identify the problem. Thank you for your inquiry.
Jim

A whirpool dryer the heating element comes on sometimes other dont. I checked all for continuity and everything seems to be fine. I replaced heating element and still dies the same thing. Sometimes works others just blows cold air

Jesus,
Intermittent malfunctions can be the most tedious to find. I would be looking at air flow first. Insufficient air flow can cause the heater to overheat and “short cycle” on the high heat thermostat. There are two “not so obvious” causes of insufficient air flow.

First: The lint screen can be tested for a clear coating by removing any lint and running water onto the screen. The water will bead on the screen and resist flowing through if it has accumulated a clear coating. Scrubbing with a brush and detergent will remove the coating and allow the water to flow easily through the screen.

Second: The plastic blower wheel can become worn allowing the motor shaft to turn inside the blower wheel. If blower wheel will rotate on the motor shaft while holding the motor pulley (on the other end of the motor) then the blower wheel needs to be replaced to correct the air flow problem.

Call U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts for free diagnosis assistance if these two tests fail to identify the problem. Thank you for your inquiry.
Jim

David,
When randomly testing the components fails to identify the problem, I switch to a troubleshooting system that will isolate the problem. I test for voltage using the wiring diagram as my road map through the circuit while the dryer is running. I always start at the terminal board where the cord attaches to the dryer. I look for 220 volts on the two outside posts and 110 volts from the center post to each of the outside posts. Shining a bright light on the terminal board will allow inspection for a burned wire or terminal post. If everything tests good there, I will move to the first component in the 220 volt circuit (heater circuit) reading the voltage by placing a test probe on each side of the component. If voltage reads “zero,” the component is good. If the voltage reads 220 volts, the component is bad. By working my way through the heater circuit while the dryer is running I will be able to isolate which component is bad. The U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store will be happy to give you free diagnosis assistance by phone if you need it. Thank you for your inquiry.
Jim

Gary,
If the dryer is not starting regardless of what selections are made on the control panel then I would test the door switch, the motor relay, and both the inlet thermal limiter and the outlet thermal limiter. These can be tested with a continuity tester or you can take them to your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store for free testing. U-FIX-IT will provide free diagnosis assistance over the phone. Thank you for your inquiry.
Jim

Jim, I was just given a whirlpool cabrio dryer, model wgd7300dwo, ser m51605399, it is tumbling not heating. Venting is good, blowing cold air out vent. It has standard three prong plug, does the dryer require 220v? I have not trouble shot any components yet.

I have a Whirpool dryer that won’t heat. I have repacked the element, thermal fuse, high limit and thermostat, and also the timer. I don’t know what else to do. The blower fan and motor are fine and all lines are clear. It’s a two year old dryer

Jura,
When randomly testing the components fails to identify the problem, I switch to a troubleshooting system that will isolate the problem. I test for voltage using the wiring diagram as my road map through the circuit while the dryer is running. I always start at the terminal board where the cord attaches to the dryer. I look for 220 volts on the two outside posts and 110 volts from the center post to each of the outside posts. Shining a bright light on the terminal board will allow inspection for a burned wire or terminal post. If everything tests good there, I will move to the first component in the 220 volt circuit (heater circuit) reading the voltage by placing a test probe on each side of the component. If voltage reads “zero,” the component is good. If the voltage reads 220 volts, the component is bad. By working my way through the heater circuit while the dryer is running I will be able to isolate which component is bad. The U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store will be happy to give you free diagnosis assistance by phone if you need it. Thank you for your inquiry.
Jim

I got a quite bizarre case. My whirlpool gold GEW9878LW0, can’t get hot enough. It takes too long to dry clothes. So far, I changed the heating element, heat-cutoff fuse, thermostat, thermistor, I even cleaned the motor. Still not enough heat. I didn’t replace the thermal fuse, since it has continuity.

To test, I unplug the hose, and let the dryer blow right in to the house.
I noticed a very strange thing: the heating element can get very hot — glowing orange, if I take off the tube where the lint screen sits. This way, the air doesn’t enter through the entrance under the heating element, and doesn’t go through the drum… Once I put it back, then the heating element won’t glow, and can’t get very hot. If I put it back, but not tighten the screws, it seems to glow orange a bit.
Also, the air blows slower when the heating element doesn’t get hot. But even so, it is still not slow at all.

The main difference I can tell is the temperature of air blowing out between the two situations. Consequently, I thought it must be caused by the thermal fuse or thermistor. But I replaced the latter, and the former still has continuity….

I would test the lint screen. After brushing the lint off of the screen, run some water into the lint screen. If it beads up and does not flow through the screen, then scrub the screen with a detergent and brush until the water flows through. Lint screens can acquire a clear coating over time that restricts air flow.

If the lint screen passes the water test, I would test the blower wheel. While holding the motor shaft on the pulley end so it cannot turn, I would attempt to turn the blower wheel. If the blower wheel turns on the shaft then it is bad and will not turn fast enough to move sufficient air through the dryer.

You can call U-FIX-IT Appliance parts at 817 472-7740 for free diagnosis assistance. Thank you for your inquiry.

My roper whirlpool dryer want do anything the night before I dryer a load of clothes no problem at all the next morning I out a load in the dryer did nothing checked beaker again nothing no sound nothing at all and my washer a few days later want spin or rinsin my clothes can you. please help me my husband want fix it thank you

When a Whirlpool (Roper) dryer will not start it is most often an internal fuse which is easy to replace. Call 817 472-7740 and we will give you free assistance in determining exactly what is wrong with your dryer and your washer. Thank you for your inquiry.

Hi, we have a whirlpool dryer that isn’t getting hot but the dryer is tumbling we also have cleaned out the lint for the dryer and the wall vent so you think that we need a fuse or a heater element. Thanks

I bought a used H2 Kenmore dryer. It quit heating. We replaced the heating coil. It worked about 2 months and quit heating again. So we replaced the thermostat and fuse. It worked about a month and quit heating again. The tab on the encasement is broken. But we got it in the dryer.
What should we do? Is there something else to check or should we get another dryer???
Ty u so much for any advice!

Whirlpool dryers are almost always worth repairing if cabinet looks good. I am not certain what you are describing as a broken tab.

The fuse blows to protect against overheating and is usually caused by insufficient airflow.

I would start the dryer and then go outside and hold my hand in front of the dryer vent. The air should be blowing vigorously as it exits the vent.
If it is not blowing vigorously, check the vent for lint and/or obstructions. If all looks good outside then disconnect the vent hose from the back of the dryer and run the dryer to see if the air is blowing vigorously exiting the dryer. Good air flow exiting the dryer with poor air flow outside indicates the problem is outside the dryer.

If you have a vertical vent the goes out through the roof rather than straight out the wall, make certain it is clean and free of lint. Dryers sometimes need a booster air pump to function properly with a vertical vent.

Make certain the dryer vent hose is clean and has no sharp bends that will restrict airflow.

Poor air flow exiting the dryer indicates the problem is within the dryer. The easy first check is the lint filter should be clean and free of lint. Less obvious, there can be a clear coating that forms on the lint filter. Run a little water onto the lint screen. Water should flow easily through it. If water beads up on the screen, then clean it with a detergent and a scrub brush until the water flows through it.

If the lint screen is clean and air flow is poor, then I would inspect the blower wheel for damage or wear.

If air flow is good, then I would inspect the tub bearings and idler wheel to make certain the tub is turning freely.

Hello Jim, thanks for your service! That comes from a current serving Chief in the Army. 15 months I hang my hat after 37years. I have cabrio dryer which stopped starting I replaced the thermal fuse and the dryer starting working however doesn’t get hot. What would be your next COA?

I would start by checking to make sure I have 220 volts coming to the terminal block at the back of the dryer where the cord attaches. If the fuse you replaced was blown by an electrical surge, it is possible the surge also threw one of two breakers for your dryer in the main circuit breaker box. Electric dryers will turn but not heat with one breaker thrown.

If 220 volts is present at the back of the dryer, then I would follow the circuit for the heating element on the wiring diagram working my way in from the terminal block while the dryer is running. Measuring voltage at each component by placing a multimeter probe on the terminal going into the component and the other probe on the terminal coming out of the component. A reading of zero will be a good component. A reading of 220 volts will be the bad component.

Let me know how if these tips are helpful or call the nearest U-FIX-IT Store for free personalized diagnosis assistance. Thank you for your inquiry.

I suspect the internal fuse has blown. Send me your model number for specific instruction as to where the fuse is located, or you can call the U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store nearest you for free diagnosis assistance.

Cabrio gas dryer not heating up. Theres a little bit of heat but not enough to dry anything. Cleaned out vents and was quit a lot of lint. Possibly overheated at some point. Is it possible if it overheated that the thermocouple needs to be replaced?

Starting with airflow is a good place to start since the flame is not staying on long enough. Whenever possible, I start by going outside while the dryer is running to hold my hand at the outlet of the dryer vent. The air should be moving briskly from the vent. Let me know if the air is moving briskly.

Observe the flame as the dryer starts. Record how long the flame stays on and how long it takes for the flame to reappear. Get back to me with those two observations and the model number for further assistance. For immediate free assistance call the U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store nearest you. Thank you for your inquiry.

Audrey,
When spot checking various components does not find the problem, it is time to switch to a systematic troubleshooting process. I would use the wiring diagram to follow the 220 voltage through the dryer heater circuit. I always start at the terminals where the dryer cord is attached to the dryer. Verifying there is 220 volts between the two outside posts and 110 volts between the center post and each of the two outside posts. Then I follow the wiring diagram to the first component in the circuit and, with the dryer running, measure the voltage across the component. If it reads 220 volts (and the dryer is running but not heating) the component bad. If it reads zero voltage I would verify there is 110 volts present measuring between the component terminal and ground (the center post on the cord terminal block). To reiterate, I expect a good component will read 110 volts (to ground) on each side but will read zero volts across the component. A bad component will read 110 volts (to ground) on each side, but will read 220 volts across the component.

I would continue to follow the wiring diagram for the heater circuit measuring each component until I identified the bad component. For free personalized help find your wiring diagram and call your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store. Thank you for your inquiry.

I would start by checking the circuit breakers in the main circuit breaker box for the house and resetting them. Dryers often have two circuit breakers and it is possible for one to blow and not the other. The broken element may have shorted to the case and caused the breaker to blow. If this is the case, the dryer will turn without heating.

If the dryer continues to turn without heating after resetting the circuit breakers, I would carefully inspect the work I did when installing the element, verifying that all wires are reconnected and in the correct location. If all is as it should be, then I would start the troubleshooting process at the beginning and work my way through the circuit to find the new malfunction. For personalized assistance call 817 472-7740. Thank you for your inquiry.

Did you complete all the steps described in “Whirlpool Dryer Not Heating?” Is the dryer turning but not heating? Please send a model number and more detailed symptoms, or for immediate help call U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts at 817 472-7740 for personalized diagnosis assistance. Thank you for your inquiry.

My new whirlpool dryer came with a 110 volt standard household cord. I plugged this into the wall outlet and the dryer turns but does not heat. On the back of dryer I do not see a terminal block to hook up a three prong cord that was on my old dryer. My old dryer ran off a 220 plug. I have never seen a dryer with a 110 plug.

Hello Ryan,
You have replaced the common items. If it was my dryer, I would start by making certain I have 220 volts to the back of the dryer where the cord attaches to the dryer. If you are missing one leg of the 220 volts, the dryer will still run, but it will not heat.

You can do this yourself with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how to use a multimeter stop by the nearest U-FIX-IT store and we will be happy to explain it to you for free. We also have multimeters for sale as low as $16.00.

If 220 volts are present at the back of the dryer then I would look for a wiring diagram for the dryer. Wiring diagrams are often stored in the control panel by the dryer manufacturer. The wiring diagram allows me to identify all of the components in the circuit with the heating element. With the dryer running I would place a multimeter lead on the terminals going into and coming out of a component in the circuit such as a thermostat, fuse, heater, or centrifugal switch on the motor. If the multimeter reads zero the component is good. If the reading is 220 volts the component is bad. Every wire will still have voltage present even when the multimeter is reading zero. Placing one meter probe on ground will show hoe much voltage is present at the other probe.

You can take the wiring diagram to the nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store for free personalized diagnosis assistance or email a picture of the wiring diagram and we will be glad to assist you over the phone.

I have a whirlpool dryer and it was not getting enough heat. I cleaned the vent hose and a tried it without load and there is so much heat right away. However, when there is a load there isn’t much heat to dry it. What seems to be the problem?

I need more information to be of help. You did not say where you are measuring the heat. A load of wet clothes will cause the exhaust temperature to feel cooler than it is with no clothes. The most common reason for a dryer running “cooler” than normal is insufficient air flow. Restricted air flow will cause the heater to short cycle. If you are unsure how to proceed with the trouble shooting, call U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts at 817 472-7740 and we will give you personalized help. Thank you for your inquiry.

Good Morning Jim,
So I read all of your information on fixing the dryers and any problems it could be. I recently took my whirlpool apart and took out the element as my step dad told me to check, it was good and tested good. So I pulled everything else out tested them and tested outlet and everything was fine I couldn’t figure out what the issue was. So I unplugged all of the wires from the gauges and devices and plugged them back in and it literally work instantly and heated up great. I left the back off and let it run for while and was still super hot and good. So I made sure to clean all dust of wires and devices and put back in. I pout in a load and dried the load but last night when I went to put in another load I didn’t notice until I had to start the load a second time that there was no heat cranking out and the clothes were just getting cold air. I and my step dad had thought I fixed it because it might have been a lose wire from me unplugging everything cleaning it of and putting back on, but now it isn’t working again and no fuses are bad or anything. Do you know what IO should check or have you any idea what it could possibly be? Thanks for taking your time to read this and possibly help me out. Have a Great Afternoon, Sir.

Intermittent problems can be the most difficult to locate. Don’t forget to check your circuit breakers in case operating the dryer caused one of the two breakers to cut out. The dryer can still run with one breaker thrown. Also, I recommend a close visual inspection of the heating element. Occasionally, an element can test good for continuity because the broken ends make connection during the testing, but separate when the dryer is operating. A volt meter can be used to test the element while the dryer is running. The element is bad if the voltage reads 220 volts between the two terminals of the element and the element is not getting hot. If the voltage reads zero between the two terminals, one leg of the 220 volts is not making its way to the element. Next, I would locate the wiring diagram and work my way through the circuit measuring the voltage across each component in the circuit while the dryer is running. A reading of 220 volts will indicate that is the bad component. You can call the U-FIX-IT store near you for free diagnosis assistance with your symptoms. Thank you for your inquiry.

Hi, I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer I bought in 2008, it quit heating, I have checked all of the temp sensors and the heating coil and they check out good, I was working on it the other day and cleaned everything up and put the heating coils back up and it started working. the next day my wife went to use it an it quit again. i’m not getting any error codes or nothing. i’m stumped on what to do next. it does 120 volts to both sides of the heating coil, it I put my meter on both terminals shouldn’t I show 240volts? I get 120 volts if I put the red terminal on the coil and the black one to ground. thank you. Kim

You are most likely reading the same leg of 120 volts on both sides of the element. If that is the case you will read zero volts across the element. The meter will read 240 volts across the element when all components in the circuit are allowing voltage to pass through them. the element is bad if 240 volts is present at the element and it is not getting hot.

I would use the wiring diagram to work my way through the circuit measuring the voltage across each component in the circuit. The bad component will be identified when I measure 240 volts across the component.

Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free personalized help in diagnosing your problem. Thank you for your inquiry.

My whirlpool dryer stopped heating and I assumed heating element,but I read some of the posts on here and saw everything I should check.now I’m a union electrician,so troubleshooting & checking for continuity is an everyday thing for me.i found that my fuse(before the heating element)had blown.i temped together the leads and the dryer works perfectly.so now I just need to go buy a new fuse…this site saved me money,time,and probably 2 or more trips to Lowe’s or an appliance store.THANKS

Jim i want to thank you I finally searched why my dryer was running but cold… it took 15 mins from the time I searched,read and problem solved it it was the FUSE!!!! LMAO I the Wife fixed the dryer after two weeks of it not working ( had to wait for the check to pay for the heating element) the price and seeing several parts that it might be drove me to look..SMH Thank you so MUCH nne of us here knew it ran off more than one breaker!!! you dont even understand what your site did for me… plus it gave me bragging rights to fixing and saving Happy New Years!!!!

I replaced the dryer belt after it broke and suddenly there is no heat. I have a Kenmore Series 80 dryer. I have replaced all the thermostats on the back and the thermal fuse. Would the belt breaking cause the motor switch to go bad?
I have reset the circuit breaker just to troubleshoot, but it still has no heat. Thanks for your help.

Whenever a new malfunction appears after I complete a repair, I retrace my steps carefully. I am almost always responsible for the new malfunction. Oftentimes I find that I inadvertently failed to reconnect a wire or connection. Sometimes it is a case of accidental causing a disconnect or break in the wiring. If I do not find anything with the careful inspection then it is time to use a multi meter and the wiring diagram to move methodically through the circuit until I discover exactly where the voltage disappears.

It is unlikely the belt breaking would cause the motor switch to go bad. For free personalized help in finding your problem call the nearest U-FIX-IT store.

I have replaced a few components on my dryer already. The heating coil about a year and a half additional and this fixed the problem. Now it has started doing the same thing. Replaced the the coil again, but that didn’t fix it. Next I jumped the thermal fuse straight to the thermostat, which fixed it. So I replaced the fuse and thermostat. After about ten uses, it happened again. What might be causing this fuse to blow? I have good airflow, no clogs

I would double check I have the correct fuse. Fuses can have different cutout temperatures.

I would check the environment of the dryer. Is there something causing the dryer to run hot?

I would heck the airflow after the dryer has been running for awhile. A failing motor can run slower the longer it runs.

While air flow is the primary cause, excessive amp draw (high current flow) can blow the fuse also. This can be a short or a failing component in the circuit. I would also take an amp reading with a clamp on amp meter if I had one available.

Call there nearest U-FIX-IT store for personalized free help in the troubleshooting process.

So i have a whirlpool dryer model LER7646jq0 that isn’t getting enough power , i checked the breaker and reset it , checked heating element, thermastat, timer ,etc.. still can’t figure out why it’s not heating any suggestions?

Michael,
I am uncertain of your symptoms. You state the dryer is not getting enough power. If half of the 220 volts is missing at the outlet, then that is where you need to start and work back to the breaker box. Dryers will not heat when one leg of the 220 volts is missing.
Jim

My parents whirlpool dryer stopped getting hot. We originally thought it was the heating element but got it tested and the man said it wasn’t broken. So the next thing I found would it might be the thermostat or the fuse but they don’t seem to be burned. If it’s none of these what else could cause the dryer to not heat? Our cricut breaker is fine so it’s not there. Please help!

Adilene,
You have checked the most common items to fail. Most dryers have a wiring diagram somewhere on the dryer. Locate the heating element on the diagram and then highlight the circuit depicting the path of the electricity on both sides of the element. Check off the components in the circuit you have already tested and look for the ones you have not checked.

A “not so common” malfunction is the centrifugal switch on the motor. This switch prevents the element from coming on anytime the motor is not running. The switch can be tested with a multi meter, but the test must be done while the dryer is running. If the switch is bad, the voltage will read 220 volts between the two terminals of the switch. Again, this is an uncommon malfunction. It is likely there is another component in the circuit that is causing the problem.

You can call the U-FIX-IT store closest to you for free assistance in reading your wiring diagram and troubleshooting your dryer.

Leo,
The centrifugal switches are not available for most dryer motors and the switches that are available are usually 2/3 the price of a new motor. I would replace the motor, but you can call the nearest U-FIX-IT Store and with you model number and we can give you the price and availability of the switch.
Jim

Yes, it could be the source of the problem if it is restricting airflow. Insufficient airflow will cause short cycling and fuse failures. Whirlpool dryers have one or more fuses and safety thermostats that cut power to the heater when there is insufficient airflow. These are in the circuit to protect against fire. If it was my dryer, I would replace the duct and then make certain there is brisk airflow exiting the dryer vent outside before I replaced any fuses or thermostats. The thermostats and fuses in the circuit can be identified by looking at the wiring schematic that came with the dryer. A multi meter can be used to test for continuity through the fuses and thermostats, or you can take the fuses and thermostats to your local U-FIX-IT store for free testing. Feel free to call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you for personalized help in troubleshooting your Whirlpool dryer.

Thank you Mr. Plummer, from the bottom of my heart, for your trouble-shooting information above. My dryer was turning, but not heating, so I followed your advice and checked the breaker box first. And voila that was the problem. When I first read the statement to check it first, I thought, “That wouldn’t be it. It’s turning.” But thankfully I read your full explanation, that it needed a full 22o to turn and heat; but it could still turn, but NOT heat if one of the fuses was blown. I just started back to work after 5 months of being unemployed and the last thing I needed was a big repair bill. If you were closer I’d kiss you! 🙂 Again, thank you so very, very much! — Peggy “Integrity first. Service before self. Excellence in all we do” You still exemplify the values of the USAF! Salute!

I also want to take a min and say thanks my wife just called me and said our dryer is doing the same thing,I come across this site and now I have something to go on only difference is she said she started it last night before bed and it never shut off and never dryer the clothes. I am out in the field for work gone 2 weeks at a time before home time and today is it so let’s hope it’s just a breaker

Virgil,
This symptom is often caused in Whirlpool Duet Dryers by a fuse that will cut power to the motor when it is blown. The fuse can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter or take the fuse to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing.

For personalized help in locating the fuse or troubleshooting the dryer call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you.

My whirlpool dryer has stopped heating. I first checked house breaker. I have replaced heating element, thermostat, thermofuse, and replace old duct. It still will not heat up. Any suggestions?
Thanks David

You have covered the common items. If it was my dryer, I would isolate the problem by following the circuit for the heating element on the dryer wiring diagram while the dryer is running. Placing the multi-meter probes on either side of a component, one at a time. Good components will read zero volts. That does not mean there is no high voltage present, it just means there is zero difference in the voltage on either side of the component. The bad component will read 220 volts.

Have Roper Dryer model #reg4440vq1- timer switch does not rotate even when dryer is running and it no longer heats up, will the timer switch affect the heat cycle? Will a new timer switch work or do I need to replace the whole control board. And thank you for your service sir!

I was unable to find your model number in the cross reference. In most cases the timer will be the only malfunction when it is bad, but there are always exceptions. An electrical surge can take out multiple components in a circuit.

Take another look at the model number (usually inside the door next to the clothes opening) and call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for additional help.

My Whirlpool gold, mod: GEW9878LW0, doesn’t have enough heat. It happened two months ago, and worked fine after replacing the thermistor. Now no enough heat again. I checked thermal fuse, power supply,
thermistor, high-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off, timer, heating element, motor. Everything seems fine, except the timer – for which two doesn’t have continuity. Then all of sudden it worked just fine for a week. Before moving it back to the old place, I decided to check the timer more carefully – so I opened it up, cleaned it. Now there isn’t enough heat again. Kind of doubt it is because of the timer. I noticed that when it worked during that week, the heat element coils turn red/orange. But now, only very small part of it became reddish.
The resistance is about 40 ohms, which seems to be within normal range, even though the manual says it should be around 10 ohms.

Remove your element from the housing it is in and inspect it closely. I suspect you will find it has burned into two sections and one of those sections has grounded to the housing. The shortened element still gets hot, just not hot enough.

I’m dealing with a Whirlpool Dryer LER4634JQ0 that would run but no heat. I tested and found thermal fuse Good, when testing the next Themal cutoff fuse I found it open so I replaced it and the Thermostat next to Heating element. Tested heating element and read continuity through element. When I started Dryer it had heat then stopped Heating , I was going to replace cycling Thermostat next does this sound right or am I missing something else. Thank You

I would check the air flow. The fuse protects the dryer from overheating when there is insufficient airflow. I check the airflow at the dryer exhaust outside the house. If the airflow is not brisk and strong then I work back toward the dryer looking for the restriction such as build up of lint in the duct. There are the obvious things such as a crushed or pinched dryer hose. If all looks good outside the dryer, then it’s time to look inside for lint or a bad blower wheel that is spinning on the motor shaft. Finally a good scrubbing of the lint screen with a brush and detergent can remove the clear coating that sometimes builds up on it. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for personalized help if you are uncertain about how to proceed.

Whirlpool Dryer LER4634JQ0 Stars to heat then no heat. I found thermal fuse Good , Coil has Continuity, Replaced fuse and Thermostat on Heating Element as fuse was open with test . When I tried again started to heat then went Cool. Could it be cycling Thermostat is bad? Or something else?Thank You

I would check the fuse again and then I would check the airflow. The fuse protects the dryer from overheating when there is insufficient airflow. I check the airflow at the dryer exhaust outside the house. If the airflow is not brisk and strong then I work back toward the dryer looking for the restriction such as build up of lint in the duct. There are the obvious things such as a crushed or pinched dryer hose. If all looks good outside the dryer, then it’s time to look inside for lint or a bad blower wheel that is spinning on the motor shaft. Finally a good scrubbing of the lint screen with a brush and detergent can remove the clear coating that sometimes builds up on it. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for personalized help if you are uncertain about how to proceed.

Turns out it was the circuit breaker. Had to flip it off then flip it back on because it is a two switch configuration where the two breakers are joined together with a pin. One had blown and the other was still working, but it looked like both were in the “ON” position. Wish I had visited your website first before taking the dryer apart for 2-3 hours. 🙂

Hello I have a whirlpool model LEB6200PQ0 its tumbling but not heat like most. checked power and I have both 110v and 240v. Also it looks like the time is not progressing with time aswell. Could it be the timer in my case. its stuck in the cool down phase regardless of where the dial is set? any help would be most appreciated.

Turning but not heating symptoms are rarely a timer. If the timer is set for timed dry (not more dry-less dry) and it is not advancing then it is pointing to a bad timer. A trace of the 220 volt circuit using a multi-meter and the wiring diagram while the dryer is running will show which component is preventing the 220 volts from reaching the element.

I got a Whirlpool dryer that won’t heat. I have replaced everything, the high limit switch thermostat the heating element the fuse the sensor that goes with the high limit switch I have tested and made sure I have 220 coming in and still it won’t heat. Any ideas? By the way this is an older conventional non-electronic dryer probably about 10 years old.

You may have a bad centrifugal switch on the motor. It is a safety so the heating element will not come on when the motor is not running (a fire hazard). You can test for this by locating the terminals for the switch on your wiring diagram and read the voltage between them while the motor is running. If the reading is 220 volts the switch is bad. The switch is not usually available separately from the motor. For personalized help in troubleshooting this dryer call the nearest U-FIX-IT store with you model number.

Hello,
My Whirlpool dryer serial #MC3404874, model #LER5644ANO comes on and is not heating and the drum won’t turn except if you do it by hand. It’s not tight, the spin is very loose and there’s a humming noise. Now I’ve been looking up possible diagnosis’ and there could be several…….what do you think? And I would also like to add it is flattering to see that you’ve answered EVERY ONE of these responses!

There is not enough information here to help you isolate your problem. Please call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free personalized assistance. It will be the quickest way to get to the source of the problem.

I am having trouble with my dryer not heating. I’ve taken all the fuses and kickouts and had them tested. Even replaced the timer and still nothing. Bought a cheap dryer to use and it heats up fine with the same plug and outlet as my dryer. I’m completely stumped as to what else it could be. The element has continuity as well as all of the fuses. Same power source. Any ideas?

You did not mention checking the centrifugal switch on the motor. The motor must be running for the centrifugal switch to close and allow the power to flow in the heater circuit. You can find the terminals to test by looking at the wiring diagram. If the centrifugal switch is bad the motor must be replaced. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for personal assistance if you have questions about testing the centrifugal switch.

Hello, any thoughts on this would be appreciated – We have a Whirlpool electric dryer. We typically run it on the “Automatic Dry” cycle, then it stopped drying one day. We turned it to the Timer on high heat and it works, but if we turn it to medium heat , it does not. Pretty goofy – any idea what part is going bad? Thanks

The symptoms are pointing to a problem that can be identified. Troubleshooting starts with the specific model number. On most dryers the model numbers can be found by opening the door and looking beside the opening for the clothes. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store with your model number and symptoms to receive personalized help.

I have a whirlpool dryer and it works great “when” it will heat. It was obtained used with a burned out heating element (which the owner got a good shock poking around with a screwdriver) and I replaced the heating element with a new one and also the thermostat and fuse. It worked well for a while and then it quit heating again (burned out heater). I repaired the heater element since it was a sunday night and needed dry clothes for the next morning and it worked ok for a couple of weeks. But now it is the same. Are these heating elements prone to fail. The break was at the midpoint of the coils so I am presuming there is a need for a lower voltage or a better support at that point. Any information could be helpful.

The elements can burn out prematurely when there is insufficient air flow through the drier. Becuase the dryer is having the same problem even after it was moved to a new location, it is logical that problem is located within the dryer.

Test the lint screen for a clear coating. After removing the lint from the lint screen, pour a small amount of water in the screen while holding it over a sink. If the water beads up, then scrub the screen with a detergent until the water runs freely through it.

If the lint screen is clear, I would inspect the blower wheel by holding the motor shaft and seeing if the blower wheel turns without moving the shaft. If the blower wheel turns on the shaft, then it should be replaced. The blower wheel cannot turn at full speed if it is “slipping” on the motor shaft.

Believe it or not, after two weeks of testing everything in the dryer itself, and still not figuring out why it wouldn’t heat, I was on my way out to shop for new dryer models when I read your suggestion about the circuit breaker. That was it. I can’t thank you enough.

Good afternoon, your site has really good content. I had an issue that occurred similarly as the post from July 7. The first thing that I did was to verify that there was no lint build up, so that I could maintain a constant airflow. After the airflow was verified, I used a multi meter to make sure I had continuity. The problem ended up being a break in the coils. So thanks for the information and keep up the good work.

This is a very informational site. I have a kenmore Elite dryer that is having issues. It has intermittent heat and gets very hot. It also has an issue where the timer turns the unit on automatically when you turn it to a cycle. It has a separate start stop button, but the unit turns on automatically. Is this an issue with the timer, or should I be looking at multiple areas?

Inspect the heating element visually. It is possible the heating element is grounded (touching) to the housing. A grounded heating element can cause overheating and control circuit issues. The grounded heating element can be confirmed by testing for continuity between the element and the housing.

If the element looks OK, then look for the wiring diagram in the dryer and contact your nearest U-FIX-IT store for personalized help.

I have an estate dryer that will not heat up. I checked the fuse box, the vent hose, changed the heating element, the thermal fuse and put new limit and fuse kit. it is tumbling but has no heat. after changing the thermal fuse I had heat on one cycle auto sense high heat for a few moments but after I changed to regular drying the heating element would not heat up again on any cycle.

Use a multi meter to check the continuity on your fuses or take them to the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing. Low air flow can cause repetitive failure of fuses.

Two of the less obvious causes of air flow problems are the blower wheel and a clear coating on the lint screen. Proceed as follows:

First, place your lint screen in a sink after removing the lint. The water should pass through the lint screen easily. If the water beads up on the screen, then scrub the screen with a detergent to remove the clear coating that can accumulate.

Second test – The plastic blower wheel can sometimes become loose on the motor shaft allowing the wheel to slip on the shaft and not turn at full speed. Test for this by removing the belt from the motor and then turn the motor shaft by hand while holding the blower wheel on the other end of the motor. If the blower wheel is OK, you will not be able to turn the motor shaft while holding the blower wheel. The blower wheel should be tightly mounted on the shaft with no looseness.

If these suggestions do not lead you to a solution, call the nearest U-FIX-IT store. We will be happy to work through it with you.

I have an electric Whirlpool dryer, Model Number LER4634PQ1, which does not heat. I checked the fuse box, and it is not the problem. I cleaned the lint trap and air flow, and they also are not the problem. Next, I want to examine the heat coil and fuses, but I do uotknow where they are located.
Help?
Thank you.

Your heating element is accessed from the back of the dryer. Disconnect power and remove the back cover. The heating element is located low on the right side as you face the back of the dryer. The element is removed by disconnecting the wires (take a picture first) and removing the four screws that attach it to the duct. One fuse is on the duct above the element. The other fuse (made of white plastic) is on the blower housing located to the lower left as you face the rear of the dryer. Both fuses and the element will have continuity if they are good. A bad element will have a break in the coils. You can also take them to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing. Call if you have any questions as you get into the removal process.

Help!!! I have a GTDP300EM1WS GE dryer and it’s not heating. With the door open I press the start button and hold down the door button to start the cycle. I can see the orange glow through the holes in the back of dryer but feel no heat. My son got behind it and said the he could feel the heat. Can you tell me what to troubleshoot before going to buy a new dryer. We have checked the breaker box and the lint hose.

We just had flooring done and the workers unplugged our Whirpool Duet Steam dryer to use the outlet. They did not move it. When we plugged it back in and used it, it comes on and tumbles but no heat. We turned circuit breakers off and back on – still no heat. I cleaned out the duct as well – not much lint at all. Whirpool says they’ll have to send a service guy out. Anything else it may be that we can easily check? Dryer is 4 years old. Model WED94HEXW1. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!

Moving the dryer could have caused the vent hose to be pinched and thereby restrict the airflow. Restricted air flow can cause the fuse to open and give the symptom you have. You can take your fuse to he nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing.

I seem to be having the opposite problem. Dries fine on low, no heat on high. I have to verify this because it is at my vacation rental a mile away. But several renters and the cleaning people have told me this. I am wondering if this is an obvious case of blown high temp thermostat or if there are other possible causes. The dryer is a Kenmore 110.86692100. The temp setting is a continuous rheostat knob. It appears to heat normally on high at first, just like on low. I didn’t run it long enough for it to cut off, but I am assuming that on high it eventually gets too hot and turns off the heating element.

Greg,
The dryer uses the same thermostat for both the high heat and the low heat. The low heat energizes the heater beneath the thermostat to cause the thermostat to cycle sooner. Look at the wiring diagram to follow the voltage while the dryer is running and determine which component is stopping the flow of electricity.

Jim,
My dryer stopped heating. On older dryers it has always been an easy fix by replacing the heater element. Now I’m reading about fuses and other electronic devices that control heating. What would be the quickest way to troubleshoot my problem? I have a Whirlpool model GEW9250PLO. It says Duet on the front.

Jeff,
You are correct, the Duet has a more complex control system, but the mechanical part is very similar to the old designs. You can still check for the common failures by doing a continuity check of the thermostats, fuses and heating element. Of course, checking for adequate air flow can be done without special equipment as well. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store if you are unfamiliar with how to do these checks.

Yes, there is an internal fuse that has probably burned out. Send your model number or call the nearest U-FIX-IT store with your model number and we can tell you where to look for it and how to test it.

I recommend checking the continuity of the fuse located on your heater housing (toward the top). If your meter shows no continuity the fuse is bad. We recommend replacing this fuse with a kit that includes the high limit thermostat as well (located toward the bottom of the heater housing). The heater housing is accessed from the rear of the dryer after removing the back. U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts offers free testing if you take the fuse and the high limit to the store nearest you.

I need a more detailed description of the symptoms of the washer malfunction. The troubleshooting process will be easier if you to call in and talk with us.

Jim I have a whirlpool WED9400SW2, I have replace the heating element two thermostats both cut off switches belt and the drum rollers. Put dryer back together it worked two cycles and quit heating again. Any thoughts?

I would be suspicious of the air flow. The first step is to identify the cause of the heat shutdown. If it is a fuse, as I suspect, then it is pointing toward the air flow. You can call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you for more personalized troubleshooting help.

Hello, my Whirlpool (LE5650XMW1) dryer stopped heating a few weeks ago. I found the heating element to be defective and went to a local appliance repair shop and picked up a replacement. I installed it and the thermal cut-off kicked out and it stopped heating again. I cleaned out all the duct work, actually pulled it all apart and rinsed it out, cleaned out the blower fan area, which had years of lint accumulated within, cleaned out all the lint around the motor, found the rear drum seal to be defective and the belt to be cracked, so I replaced both of those, bought and installed a new thermal cutoff kit. It’s still kicking out. I end up resetting it by tapping the back of the thermal cutoff with the handle of a screwdriver, reinstalling and trying other things. The only way I can get it running is by disconnecting the vent tube off the back and leave it blowing into the laundry room. Everything is cleaned out and it still seems to be more sensitive than it has been in the last 4 years of use at this residence and everything is cleaner than it’s ever been. I’m at my wit’s end with this dryer, there’s not much to it and I would rather fix it than replace it. I’ve checked continuity on everything multiple times and the only thing that’s been going out is the thermal cutoff which I keep resetting. Any ideas?

I think you are on the right track looking at air flow. Two more things to look at.

First, place your lint screen in a sink after removing the lint. The water should pass through the lint screen easily. It should not bead up on the screen. If it does, then scrub the screen with a detergent to remove the clear coating that can accumulate.

Second test – The plastic blower wheel can sometimes become loose on the motor shaft allowing the wheel to slip on the shaft and not turn at full speed. Test for this by removing the belt from the motor and then turn the motor shaft by hand while holding the blower wheel on the other end of the motor. If the blower wheel is OK, you will not be able to turn the motor shaft while holding the blower wheel. The blower wheel should be tightly mounted on the shaft with no looseness.

If these suggestions do not lead you to a solution, give us a call. We will be happy to work through it with you.

Whirlpool Duet front load Dryer keeps blowing fuse. Checked 220v circuit at the box, OK. Checked coil and two other sensors for continuity, OK. Thermistor did not have continuity, don’t think it needs too?? Also, replacement Thermistor did not have continuity as well. Sensor next to Thermistor did test OK. Dryer runs on air only. Shorts out immediately on heated dry. Coil housing box is warm after that short start up. Any thoughts on what needs to be replaced?

I suspect you heating element is shorted out to ground. You can confirm this by visual inspection of the heating coil, or by checking for continuity between the heater terminals and the heater housing. If you have continuity, it is a bad element.

I’m having similar issues. Our dryer stopped heating last week. I checked all the fuses and the fuse at the very back of the heating element showed no continuity. I replaced that one as well the thermostat since the parts came together. I checked them both after installing and they worked. Put the dryer back together and it worked great again for almost a week.
The power went out a couple days ago and I’m not sure if that is what has caused it to not heat again. I will check the circuit breakers when I get home, but could it be something else that I’m missing??

I am guessing the unit probably blew a circuit breaker when the power cut off and is now operating, but if that is not the case, read on.

If the fuse is burned out again, check the outside vent to make certain airflow is blowing strong. If the exhaust is not blowing strong, look over the top of the dryer (before moving it) and check the exhaust hose for kinks. Remove the hose and run the dryer. If the dryer is blowing strong then restriction is between the dryer and the outdoor vent. If the exhaust velocity is still not strong, the problem is inside the dryer. Check for lint buildup and check that the blower is firmly attached to the motor shaft with no play.

Remove the lint screen and run a stream of water into it. If the water beads up, clean the screen with a detergent and a brush to remove a clear coating. When water flows through the lint screen, it is clean.

You just saved me a LOT of trouble trying to pull the heating element and replace it in my Whirlpool Elite dryer. My units are about 10yrs old, and get HEAVY use, so I thought it was just time. In my search to see how to get to the heating element, I bumped into this article. In my case my breaker is a dual-pole 210, but only has one switch, and it didn’t show as tripped. Just to be thorough I turned it off and back on, and WHALLA! Dryer is working perfectly again!

A bad fuse produces a “no heat” condition, not a “slow to heat up” condition. I recommend checking the air flow. Restricted air flow can cause the heating element to short cycle. Call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you for more personalized help.

I was given a Whirlpool Washer and Dryer. Once we got the dryer upstairs and into the apartment, we noticed the outlet on the wall for the dryer was different from the plug on the dryer. My boyfriend works in HVAC and is very saavy with electrical wiring. He was able to plug the dryer in by sticking the wires directly into the outlet as a temporary solution. He ended up leaving to go out of town for work. He wants me to just wait until he gets back but I wanna do some laundry. The dryer runs, but there is no heat. I ran a load of towels and just put them in the dryer to see if eventually they would dry. Well, I forgot about the dryer when I left that evening. I returned the next morning to find my dryer still running. The towels were dry from cycling all night I guess. With the info given, do you have any troubleshooting tips for me in trying to figure this out? I would prefer not to un plug it but I think that I will have to for getting inside that back panel. Thanks for reading my rant. Hope you can help and I hope to hear from you soon, fellow Texan. 🙂

The dryer needs a new cord that matches the outlet you have. You can take a picture of the outlet to your nearest U-FIX-IT store and we can provide the correct cord along with instruction about replacing the old cord. Replacing the cord is an easy task. I suspect the dryer will work correctly when the new cord is installed.

The heating element in my dryer heats up and the. Turns off with 2 minutes. I have ensured there is no blockage, emptied the lint trap and housing Unitas tested the heating element. Not sure what could be causing the problem.

The short cycle is most likely caused by an air flow restriction. It is possible the lint filter has a clear coating on it. Remove the lint filter and run a small amount of water into it. The water should flow through. If the water beads up, then the filter needs to be scrubbed until the water flows through. If you still have a problem, call the U-FIX-IT nearest you for more personalized help.

I have a whirlpool ultimate care 2 and the heating element was bad so I changed it out and when I put a new one in it blew a main breaker and in the video I watched the guy had 3 wires that were put back. I only have 2 ! Really don’t want to mess anything up. Where do I place the 2 wires ?

Most elements have only two wires, the third wire comes in to play when there is more than one element. If you are unsure of the wiring it is best to locate the wiring diagram and double check all the connections you made. There is usually a wiring diagram located somewhere on a removable panel of the dryer or it may be folded and stored inside the control panel. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT for additional help if you are unable to resolve this.

I just replaced the heating element the high limit thermostat and started the dryer The heating element started heating and in a couple of minutes the heating element went off. The turned off the dryer and tested all the fuses and thermostats for continuity and they are all good. What couuld be the problem. I have a kenmore dryer model no 11096384800. Thanks.

Hello there – I’ve got a Roper Electric dryer that only wants to heat up at the end of the cycle. All the usual suspects test positive for continuity and air flow isn’t the issue. I’m pretty sure based on this that the issue rests with the timer because of the delayed activation of the heating unit. Is this theory sound?

Using a multimeter you can determine where you are losing the 240 volts. Yes it can be the timer, but don’t forget to check the centrifugal switch on the motor. The wiring diagram can help you determine the easiest place to test for 240 volts while the dryer is operating. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store if you need additional help.

I have a whirlpool duet dryer. The ducting from the dryer to the outside of the house is a long trek. My dryer doesn’t dry properly when the ducting from the dryer is attached to the wall, if it is detached it drys fine. It was fine for about 3 years attached to the wall to the outside, but just recently had this problem with it attached. What do you think it could be? It would be difficult to change the whole ducting route so I am hoping that it is a easy fix int the dryer itself. I just watched a video about checking the continuity of the thermostat and heating element…waiting for my husband to come back from a week of hunting to do this together. Just wanting to know your thoughts.
thanks,
Lori

I have a Kenmore dryer that periodically stops working. It will still run but stop heating. I can get it to work again by cycling through the diagnostic test, and than restarting it. Sometimes I have to do this 3-4 times. This generally happens a couple of times a month, but is now occurring more frequently. I shortened the vent length (venting into the garage instead of through garage), thinking it was perhaps overheating and triggering a thermal cut-off, this seemed to fix it for awhile, but now the problem is back again.

Hi jim,I have a apt size whirlpool elec dryer that just stopped running. Totally. No spin, no nothing. Checked all breakers, even tried various outlets, nothing. Do these have a internal reset button on these little apt models that don’t run 220? HELP BEFORE MY WIFE MAKES ME TALE IT APART. …OR WORSE. …GO TO THE LAUNDRY MAT..YIKES!

Hi Jim,
I’m glad I came across your forum, before running out and buying a new dryer. I have a Whirlpool Electric Dryer, which just stopped heating last weekend. What’s the best way to tell if it’s the heating element, Thermal Fuse or Thermostat? Also, I noticed a few months ago that the drum makes a “thumping” noise when turning, almost like a flat spot on the rollers.

I have a whirlpool estate dryer that recently stopped drying during the 60 min timed dry, drying cycle but heats normal during the cool down period. I’ve tested the continuity of all required parts, checked the duct work, breaker box and everything seems ok. My timer knob moves and ticks , but is this the culprit? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Ron

Have a whirlpool duet, drum turns but will not heat. I have changed Heating element, thermostat, thermoster, as well as fuse that is on the fan and the sensor on the fan. Still same issue. Dryer runs fine, heating element never heats up.

You did not mention checking the circuit breakers for the dryer in the main breaker box for the house. If you have gone through all of the troubleshooting steps (https://www.ufixit.com/diy-tips/whirlpool-dryer-not-heating/), then it is time to locate the wiring diagram and a voltmeter. Start with checking the voltage at the terminal block where the cord attaches to the dryer. The voltage should read 220 volts between the two outside terminals and 110 volts between the center post and either outside post.

Once you have verified the 220 volts at the terminal block, follow the wiring diagram in toward the heating element. Place a probe on the wire going in and on the wire going out of each component you come to in the diagram. When you read 220 volts you have the bad component.

I am so grateful I found your website before I let my husband dig in to my dryer, or called for service. I had no idea that it could be just a flipped breaker from a storm a few days ago. I am going to share your site on social media. What a great resource!

I have a whirlpool stacked dryer not heating up. With the heating element removed I have power on the orange wire coming from the control knob on leg A of the house power. when I start the dryer with the heating element removed I still have the orange wire hot and then the red wire gets power from leg B giving me my 220. If i go through this preocess with the heating element installed I loose the power on the orange wire from the control knob. The heating element looks good, has continuity and no apparent shorts. Do you know what would cause the power to drop out from the control knob?

A wiring diagram, a voltmeter and a methodical approach are needed to identify what is preventing power from arriving at the heating element. Start at the terminal board where the cord attaches to the dryer. You should have 220 volts between the two outside posts and 110 volts between the center post and either outside post. Then travel down the wiring diagram from one of the outside posts to the first component on the way to the heating element. Measure the voltage across the component while the dryer is running. If you read zero volts the component is good. If you read 220 volts the component is bad and needs to be replaced.

Work your way through the wiring diagram to each component in turn until you find the bad component. It is a tedious procedure and much care must be exercised to avoiding shorting power to ground or shocking yourself while taking the measurements. Also care must be taken to avoid the moving parts while the dryer is running.

Recently purchased a used Whirlpool Estate TGDX640PQ1 gas dryer on Craigslist. For what it’s worth, we transported the dryer home on its back. Once home, I found that it does not heat.

When first started, I hear a loud sound and can see that the burner igniter light glows (via the lower left view port). After a few seconds I hear a click and the glow dies down and the loud sound goes away. However, I do not see a flame.

After a minute or so I hear the loud sound again and the igniter glows again, then dies out. Again, the loud sound dies with the glow. Still no heat. Can you advise what the malfunction might be? Thanks.

If a dryer is making a loud sound as the burner lights and then turns off after a short time, the air flow could be the cause.

Check the air flow as it exits the vent outside. The air flow should be vigorous. If not, disconnect the dryer from the vent pipe and check the air flow there. If the air flow is vigorous exiting the dryer, then the problem is outside the dryer. Make certain the vent is clear and unobstructed. If the vent pipe is over ten feet long, has multiple turns, or exhausts vertically through the ceiling you may need a booster pump.

If the exhaust air is not exiting the dryer vigorously, the problem is inside the dryer. Check for clear ducts, the blower wheel does not “slip” on the shaft, and the lint screen is clean. After removing the lint from the lint screen, test it by running a small amount of water into the screen. If the water beads up instead of running through the screen then scrub the screen with a detergent and water to remove the clear coating that can accumulate on them.

I have a Kenmore dryer that is not heating. I have replaced the hi temp thermal kit and it worked for 2 loads. Now it wont heat again. there is no lint in pipes etc. lint screen is good. Could it be a faulty hi temp kit or possibly something else ? I had replaced these several years ago and it has been good up until now.

One of the items in the thermal kit is a fuse. It is a “one time use” item. When it’s rated temperature is exceeded the safety opens and cannot be reset – it must be replaced. Having said that it is likely that you did not find the reason for the overheat condition that caused the fuse to blow the first time and now, it has blown again. You may have airflow problem. Try the following 2 tests. Remove the lint filter and run a small amount of water into it. The water should flow through. If the water beads up, then the filter needs to be scrubbed until the water flows through. The second test. Hold the motor pulley and check to see if the blower wheel turns on the shaft. If it turns, replace the blower wheel.

Hi I have a Whirlpool dryer that is not heating up. I checked and it is not a matter of airflow nor is it any of the thermostats or heating elements. The glow bar gets hot but it there is no flame. It seems as if the gas valve is not opening. What is the easiest way to check this Because it is located in the bottom of the dryer and it is hard to get access to.

When the igniter comes on and stays on, it is usually the flame switch. It is located to the side of the burner with a little window toward the flame. Unplug the dryer and remove one of the two wires and check for continuity (no continuity is bad) or take the flame switch to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing.

I have a Whirlpool Cabrio that is not heating. I torn it apart and took all the heating components to a appliance repair shop where they said it was all good. I’ve reset the breaker and outlet voltage is good. I have to replace my thermal fuse every few months as it likes to blow. Before it stopped heating, on two separate accounts I smelled burning. I’ve checked everything including the control board. Any ideas?

You are going to need more help than I can give in an email, please call or come by the nearest U-FIX-IT store for assistance in solving this problem. We will need to see the wiring diagram for your dryer in order to guide you through the troubleshooting process.

John,
I have an Inglis (Whirlpool) dryer that runs fine on High Heat, but gives no heat on the Low Heat setting. I am assuming that the bias thermistor is the likely culprit. Before tearing into it, can you confirm my suspicions?

Hello,
I’ve got a whirlpool cabrio dryer. About a week ago our dryer stopped heating up. The drum spins normal. I’ve checked the breakers, fine. I checked the fuses, thermostats, heating element and everything has continuity. I’m not sure what to check from here. Are any of these fuses, and/or thermostats supposed to be in the closed position and everything appeared to be in an open position. Dryer is only about 4-5 years old.. Any ideas what to check for?
Thanks,
Mike

I have a Whirlpool dryer that will not get hot I have tested all of the thermostats and fuses and they are all good I checked on any air flow issues and the air flow is good The globe bar gets red hot but there is no flame. almost seems like the gas valve is not opening Is there anything I can chec to make sure this is what’s wrong? These parts are underneath the dryer under the drum These parts are underneath the dryer under the drum.

Check the flame sensor located next to the burner (has a window facing the flame) for continuity or take the flame sensor to the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing. Replace the sensor if there is no continuity.

Hi, I have a Admiral dryer (model # AGD4475TQ1). My dryer initially stopped drying so I tried to find what to replace and then I changed only the thermal fuse. I turned the dryer back on and it started working again, only for about a day. Then it stopped working. What should i try next? I don’t want to waste anymore money on other parts. I also do not understand how to restart the circuit breaker, if that is what I need to do. Thank you.

Air flow problems are the most common reason for dryer fuses to “blow.” The fuse will continue to “blow” until the air flow problem is located and corrected. Check the air flow as it exits the vent outside. The air flow should be vigorous. If not, disconnect the dryer from the vent pipe and check the air flow there. If the air flow is vigorous exiting the dryer, then the problem is outside the dryer. Make certain the vent is clear and unobstructed. If the vent pipe is over ten feet long, has multiple turns, or exhausts vertically through the ceiling you may need a booster pump.

If the exhaust air is not exiting the dryer vigorously, the problem is inside the dryer. Check for clear ducts, the blower wheel does not “slip” on the shaft, and the lint screen is clean. After removing the lint from the lint screen, test it by running a small amount of water into the screen. If the water beads up instead of running through the screen then scrub the screen with a detergent and water to remove the clear coating that can accumulate on them.

The circuit breaker for the dryer is located in the main breaker box for your home. Electric dryers have a double breaker or two breakers. On some breakers it is possible to “trip” one of the breakers or one side of the double breaker without “tripping” the other side. When this happens the dryer can turn but not heat. Resetting or restarting the breaker is accomplished by turning the breaker off and then back on.

i have a whirlpool gas dryer that is not drying at all, it your regular square looking whirlpool dryer. i see thru the little hole in the bottom of the dryer that it glows orange but i don’t see any flames at all. there’s a video online that is detailed about what to check and how to test . Everything ok, except that i don’t see or feel any heat whatsoever, what do you think it could be? please help

Check the flame sensor for continuity or take it to the nearest U-FIX-IT for free testing. It is located next to the flame and has a small window facing the flame. Replace the flame sensor if there is no continuity.

HI jim,we have a gas dryer(kenmore) we came home the other day and it had been running for about 6 hrs,it never shut off, after we turned it off the next day when we turned it on it wouldnt heat up, I replaced the thermal fuse and the thermostat,also replaced the ignighter, also 2 months ago replaced the coils,its 12 years old,it starts fine it just doesnt make any attempt to light,what should I replace next?

It could be the flame sensor located next to the burner. If it has continuity between the two terminals, it is good. Replace it if you have no continuity. You can take it to the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing or you can call for more immediate help.

Hello. I have a whirlpool w10206010 gas dryer that is not heating up. After looking at some videos online I decided to troubleshoot it myself. When I removed the back panel I must have unplugged the red and yellow wire accidentally and cannot find where it plugs in to. Can you please help? Thank you in advance.

Have a Whirlpool GGQ9800LG0 dryer. The heating element will glow and the dryer will have a good flame for about 5 seconds and then it goes out. About 45 seconds to a minute later, it will repeat the process over and over again. Heats up, 5 seconds goes out, a minute later heats up and off again in 5 seconds. Thisis both with the exhaust tube hooked up to the dryer and with it off. Both ways I get a strong flame and a lot of exhaust flow/pressure coming out of the dryer

I cleaned out a lot of lint from the trap, and some in the blower wheel. The tube where the heating element/burner did not have any lint. However, I have reason to believe that the outside vent might have been restricted (fixed that) and a possible cause to this problem now.

I have tested for continuity the gas coils, heating element, cycling thermostat. All seem to be within specs, though the cycling thermostat was giving me high meter readings at first, but for some reason, just goes to about .4 ohms now.

I have not visually looked at the heating element. Nor have I tested the high limit thermostat.

If the high limit thermostat did trip due to a possible exhaust restriction, I was under the assumption that it does NOT reset. Would a blown high limit thermostat still allow even brief 5 second flame ?

Except for actually looking at the igniter for cracks and possibly testing that high limit thermostat, I am really at a dead end.

Thanks in advance for any help or guidance you might be able to offer!!!!

I suspect an airflow problem. Try the following 2 tests. Remove the lint filter and run a small amount of water into it. The water should flow through. If the water beads up, then the filter needs to be scrubbed until the water flows through. The second test. Hold the motor pulley and check to see if the blower wheel turns on the shaft. If it turns, replace the blower wheel. If neither test yields results, call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for troubleshooting assistance.

Drying time can be affected by three things.
1. The size of the load
2. How wet the load is. Did the washer spin the water out of the clothes sufficiently?
3. Heat
4. Airflow through the dryer.

Your dryer may be drying the small load and struggling with the normal size loads. Visually inspect your heating element to verify there are no breaks in the element. Occasionally a heating element will break and weld to the housing causing it to generate less heat than needed. If the heating element is good and the load is normal size and wetness, that leaves you with an airflow problem.

Check the air flow as it exits the vent outside. The air flow should be vigorous. If not, disconnect the dryer from the vent pipe and check the air flow there. If the air flow is vigorous exiting the dryer, then the problem is outside the dryer. Make certain the vent is clear and unobstructed. If the vent pipe is over ten feet long, has multiple turns, or exhausts vertically through the ceiling you may need a booster pump.

If the exhaust air is not exiting the dryer vigorously, the problem is inside the dryer. Check for clear ducts, the blower wheel does not “slip” on the shaft, and the lint screen is clean. After removing the lint from the lint screen, test it by running a small amount of water into the screen. If the water beads up instead of running through the screen then scrub the screen with a detergent and water to remove the clear coating that can accumulate on them.

Hi Jim
I have a whirlpool cabrio wed6400swd. I have the same problem with this dryer. Its not heating. I replaced the element and the high limit thermostat. I tested the thermistor and thermal fuse and I get continuity.
Im getting power to the element. What else should I try to get the heater to turn on. I tested the 220v outlet and 220 is coming out of it. Could I have attached the power cord backwards? Not sure what to try next. Thanks for your help.
chris

Your familiarity with a multi-meter will help you solve this problem. Find the wiring diagram for your dryer. It may be located in the control panel or it may be on the back of the dryer, but there is usually one included somewhere on the dryer.

With the dryer running follow the wiring diagram and measure the voltage across (the terminal going in & the terminal coming out) each component in the heater circuit in turn. If the component is good, the voltage will read “zero.” When the voltage across the component reads “220 volts” you have located the bad component.

I have a Roper REX6634RQ1 that I’ve just replaced the Heating Element and the Safety Thermostat(top right above the heating element) in. I had heat very briefly and when I went to retrieve the first load I had run through, the clothes were not dry. I attempted to run the dryer again, but this time, I watched and it did not produce heat. I checked the safety thermostat before purchasing any parts and it did not have any resistance, so I deemed this the problem. Has the safety thermostat fuse blown again? I did not replace the High Level Thermostat, but could this be the problem that is causing the Safety Fuse to blow if the Hi-Level Thermostat is not working properly? Thank You in Advance for your Help!

Yes, it is possible a failed safety thermostat can cause the safety fuse to blow. The repeated failure of the safety fuse is often the result of poor air flow. Check the air flow as it exits the vent outside. The air flow should be vigorous. If not, disconnect the dryer from the vent pipe and check the air flow there. If the air flow is vigorous exiting the dryer, then the problem is outside the dryer. Make certain the vent is clear and unobstructed. If the vent pipe is over ten feet long, has multiple turns, or exhausts vertically through the ceiling you may need a booster pump.

If the exhaust air is not exiting the dryer vigorously, the problem is inside the dryer. Check for clear ducts, the blower wheel does not “slip” on the shaft, and the lint screen is clean. After removing the lint from the lint screen, test it by running a small amount of water into the screen. If the water beads up instead of running through the screen then scrub the screen with a detergent and water to remove the clear coating that can accumulate on them.

I have a Whirlpool Duet drier. All parts work except it won’t dry. We’ve replaced the fuse and the heating element, and still nothing. We’ve checked the circuit breaker and the vent and all seems to be well.

Remove the thermistor and take it to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing or test it yourself using an ohm-meter. The resistance at 70 degrees should read approximately 11.9 kilo-ohm, and at 80 degrees it should read 9.2 kilo-ohms. There is a tech sheet packed inside Duet dryers which can guide you through the built in diagnostics as well. The wiring diagram which is part of the tech sheet can provide road map for tracing the voltage though the dryer. Bring your wiring diagram to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for assistance in troubleshooting your dryer.

I am having same problem as this person on post. Whirlpool duet dryer everything works but no heat. I have checked coils…thermostat. .thermo fuse…circuit breaker…and the thermistor is reading at 9.7 at 80 degrees.what else could be wrong. I’m at a stand still. Amy help would greatly be appeciated. I live in San Antonio and can’t go to a ufixit store in Dallas or tyler. Any help please.

A wiring diagram, a voltmeter and a methodical approach are needed to identify what is preventing power from arriving at the heating element. Start at the terminal board where the cord attaches to the dryer. You should have 220 volts between the two outside posts and 110 volts between the center post and either outside post. Then travel down the wiring diagram from one of the outside posts to the first component on the way to the heating element. Measure the voltage across the component while the dryer is running. If you read zero volts the component is good. If you read 220 volts the component is bad and needs to be replaced.

Work your way through the wiring diagram to each component in turn until you find the bad component. It is a tedious procedure and much care must be exercised to avoiding shorting power to ground or shocking yourself while taking the measurements. Also care must be taken to avoid the moving parts while the dryer is running.

I have a whirlpool dryer. We just moved and now the dryer has no heat. (Worked the morning we moved). I have checked the circuit breaker and the heating element. What should I check next?
I see in the past you have suggested changing the fuse and the thermostat together. Are those relatively expensive?
Also, I’ve noticed, what looks to be three fuses (I think). Do I need to change them all?
Thanks,
Diana

Yes, all of the thermostats and fuses can be checked for continuity using a multi-meter, or you can take them to the nearest U-FIX-IT for free testing. If the fuse has blown in your new location be sure to check the vent to maker sure it is clean and clear of obstructions. If the vent is going up through the attic or is long, you may need a boost pump to keep the fuse from blowing.

I have a Whirlpool gas dryer. It is making a noise much like a plastic roller bearing is vibrating loose. Then, there is a “click” and the noise stops for a while. Meanwhile, we have little to no heat. Most times, there is heat when the dryer initially starts, noise begins, “click”, noise stops and heat slowly goes away. Noise starts again, click, and the cycle continues.

Kenmore Elite 27″ electric dryer (essentially a Whirlpool) spins, has good exhaust, but does not heat. A test of thermal fuse, heating element, thermal cutoff, and high limit thermostat found a bad high limit thermostat. Made sure exhaust pipe was clear and replaced high limit thermostat. Had heat very briefly and then heat cut-off again. Dryer still spins and airflow outdoors through exhaust is very good. I suspect high limit thermostat has again been blown. Ideas for what could be causing the hlt to blow when the exhaust appears clear and airflow is good?

It is possible for high amp draw in the circuit to cause the fuse to blow. You need a clamp on amp meter to be able to make the measurement. I am more suspicious that the air flow is not good since protecting against restricted airflow is the purpose of the fuse. There is an air flow test kit available at our Westmoreland Road Location for $4.99 which can be used to settle the question for certain.

Before using the kit, you may want to try the following check on your lint screen. Remove the lint screen from the dryer and brush away the lint. Run water into the lint screen. If the water beads up and does not flow through the screen easily then clean the screen with a detergent and a brush until the water flows through easily. It is possible to acquire a clear coating on the lint screen which restricts the air flow.

Hey I have a whirlpool gas dryer. It fires up the first time. So I replaced the ignitor. It fires off then goes off the next time the ignitor goes off the flame does not come back on. Help me please!!!

To determine the problem with your Whirlpool gas dryer there is a test you can perform. Use a multi-meter on the ohms setting to check the continuity of the flame sensor. The flame sensor is located next to the burner. It has a small window facing the flame and two wires connected to it. Disconnect the power to the dryer and remove the two wires from the sensor before the attempting continuity check. If there is a connection (continuity) between the two terminals the flame sensor, it is good. Alternatively, you can take your flame sensor to the U-FIX-IT store nearest you for free testing. If the flame sensor is good, the problem is most likely the coils (solenoids) on the gas valve. If you have any questions call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you.

Hi I have a Whirlpool electric dryer imperial series and it is getting warm but not hot when placed on hi heat I have checked the breakers and also the duct for clogs but it is all retalitvy new solid duct no coragated dryer hose is involved in my duct it comes out from the dryer into an elbow up about 7 feet than an elbow and exhausted outside so there are no flow restrictions what should I look for to fix the problem

Jim,
You do not say if the Whirlpool dryer has worked correctly on this duct in the past. Your duct’s vertical run followed by a second 90 degree elbow will cause a decreased airflow. Disconnect your dryer from the duct work and check to see if it heats properly. If it does, you know the problem is the duct work and you will need to install a boost pump to get adequate air flow (since you stated the duct is free of restrictions). If the high heat problem persists, check for vigorous airflow exiting the dryer (with the duct disconnected). If you question that the airflow is not enough, then check the lint screen as follows. Remove the lint screen from the dryer and brush away the lint. Run water into the lint screen. If the water beads up and does not flow through the screen easily then clean the screen with a detergent and a brush until the water flows through easily. If the lint screen passes the water test, then hold the motor pulley while attempting to turn the blower wheel on the other end of the motor. The blower wheel should be tight on the shaft. If you can turn the blower wheel while holding the motor pulley, the blower wheel is bad. If you need additional assistance, please call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you.

I have a whirlpool electric dryer (model number wed5790vq1) that will only function on automatic dry. the dryer will not even power on on any other settings (for example timed dry). what could be causing this?

Joshua,
The wiring diagram, a volt meter and a methodical approach is necessary to identify the problem. Measure for 220 volts arriving at the machine and then use the wiring diagram as your guide to follow the 110 volts (one leg of the 220 volts) through the electrical circuit to the motor. One of the components in the circuit is preventing the deliver of power to the motor.

You may be able to determine the likely cause by looking at the wiring diagram for the component(s) that is in the circuit for the timed dry, but not for the automatic dry.

You can bring your wiring diagram into the U-FIX-IT store nearest you and we can guide you through the process.

I have a Whirlpool electric dryer that is not heating. I have verified power, and checked the heating element, thermal cutoff fuse and thermostat switch mounted on the outside of the dryer element. All check out ok. What is the other electrical component (connected by red and red/white wires) mounted directly above the thermostat switch on the heater duct running to the dryer interior? I isolated that component as well and checked it with an ohm meter, and it is an open circuit. Is that my problem? If so, what part do I need to order?

Bob,
Yes, the component you are describing (a fuse) should not be open. We keep those in stock at all stores. The factory recommends replacing the high limit thermostat at the same time. It is possible a failed high limit switch caused the fuse to open. The price of the different kits runs around $30. The model number is needed to determine which kit you need or you can take the old ones in to the location nearest you for free testing to verify you diagnosis.

I have a Whirlpool dryer model number LER4634PQ0. The no-heat and high-heat settings work fine, but it seemed like it was getting too hot when on the low-heat setting. As best I can tell, it heats up the same amount on low- or high-heat. I took it apart and, sure enough, both sides of the heating element glow red when I run the dryer on low-heat. (Both also glow red when it is on high-heat, and neither glow when it is on no-heat.) Is this a switch problem?

Xander,
The dryer varys the amount of time the element is on to achieve different temperatures in the dryer. Both sides of the element get hot at the same time. Place a thermometer in the exhaust duct to verify the dryer turning the element off at different temperatures. If the element is cycling off at the same temperature regardless of the temperature you select it may be caused by the bias thermostat (NA 3387134 $23.39). Bring your old one in to the U-FIX-IT near you and we will test for free.

I have a whirlpool drier that is about 5 years old, Tuesday evening I dried clothes tonight I put a load into dry, lights come on but drum does not turn and does not heat up. Any suggestions? Thank you very much

I have a 7 year old ROPER dryer, its stopped running so I checked and replaced the tehrmal fuse. TUrned it on but produced no heat, changed out high temp thermostadt, thermal cut off switch was bypassed before we bought this used and didnot affect drying. Any ideas why it is not drying.

You did not mention checking the circuit breakers for the dryer in your main breaker box. Many dryers have two circuit breakers. A surge can cause one breaker to open without tripping the other. The 110 volt motor continues to run, but the 220v element will not get hot.

I am assuming you have verified the element is good by checking for a break and/or done a continuity check.

There are two less common malfunctions to look for.
1st follow the dryer cord back to the cabinet of your Roper Dryer. Open the small access door and inspect the cord connection. The cord terminal block can break down causing one of the cord terminals to burn and separate from one leg of the dryer cord. A new terminal block and/or cord will repair the problem.
2nd There is a centrifugal switch located on the motor. The purpose of the switch is to prevent the element from heating if the motor fails to start. A faulty switch will prevent the heater from heating even when the motor runs. The continuity test of the switch must be performed while the dryer is running. Make certain you disconnect the leads to the switch and insulate them prior to plugging in the dryer and starting the dry cycle. The correct leads are identified by looking at the wiring diagram. If you need any assistance with this procedure call your local U-FIX-IT store.

I have a whirlpool electric dryer. While checking voltage all around, I noticed it was not reading at the end of cycle alert button, when I unplugged the wire from this it then started to heat up. What is this part?

A wiring diagram is needed to determine what you took out of the circuit when you disconnected the wire. I am unable to identify the part from your description. If you send a model number along with the part’s location on the dryer, I may be able to determine the part number.

I have a Maytag Performa. Purchased in 2000. About 6months ago t stopped heating when using one of the cycles so I began using one of the others. Recently it just heated at a high temp no matter the setting. Now it does not heat on any setting. I hope you can help me! We have had some nasty weather lately but i checked the bracket box and everything it’s fine there.

Your Maytag dryer probably have two malfunctions. Bad weather can cause electrical surges which blow the internal fuse in the dryer. Call the store nearest you with you model number to find out where you fuse is located and how to test it.

I need a model number to give any guidance on the loss of ability to chose lower temperatures. Calling the store nearest you may be the easiest way to work through diagnosis on that.

Michael,
I am assuming that you have checked the heating element for a break in the element and there was no break. Use a volt meter to measure the voltage between the two leads of the heating element while the dryer is running. If it reads 220 volts and the element is not hot, then the element is bad. Use the wiring diagram as your guide to follow the circuit and test each component in the circuit in the same manner. Place a meter probe on each lead of the component while the dryer is running. When the meter read 220 volts you will have identified the bad component. WARNING: Careless placement of the probes while the dryer is running may result in a short, a shock to you, or damage to the dryer components. Take your wiring diagram and your meter to the nearest U-FIX-IT for “one on one” guidance.

I have a GE gas dryer: DBXR463GG7WW
The timer knob no longer aligns properly with the settings printed around the knob. Pointing the knob to ‘off” for example, does not go off. It appears the knob is spun 180 degrees from where it should be. If the knob slides on to a shaft that has one flat side it would seem that the knob can only fit on the shaft one way and not be able to be removed and then put back on in a different position. What would cause the alignment to change and what is the fix? Thanks in advance for any insight.

jim I have a amana NED5240tq0 and eveything works good but it won’t shut off the drum the door shut it off and on the timer the heat will shut off the dry sencer will shut the heat off but the drum keeps spinning for hours. help JR

I have a frigidaire dryer model# 7348-80C. One day it was working fine and the next no heat. I have 240V at the plug. Continuity and visual inspection of the heater coil, high limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and thermal fuse indicate they are all working properly. I have tried all three heat settings, still no heat. I bought another used dryer. Plugged it in started a load and the heat was working. Checked it after the cycle finished. The clothes were wet and the heat will no longer come on.

I have a whirlpool dryer that was converted into a 110volt by replacing the three prong cord to a 110volt and it does not get hot. Is the problem that a lower voltage cord was used and that’s why the dryer does not get hot.

I checked the the circuit breaker and it is not blown. I have replaced the thermal fuse, heating coil and thermostat. Is there something I should look for in my failed installation or is there any thing else I can check?

Thank you for the advice on why the dryer does not produce heat. Checked the breaker, still cold. 🙁 Took of heating element, and thermostat, took to a local store, had them tested, problem, heating element. Replaced it, and voila! Heat! I live in the Madison Wi area and appreciated how easy it was to understand your site. Have a great day!

I have a whirlpool dryer. The problem is that the coils get hot butt when i push the start button it wont start.I took the back off to see if the coils get hot and they get red hot. do u think it could be the start button. thank u

Bought a new dryer a couple months ago and it quit after a couple of weeks. It was as if it had no power. The light inside wouldn’t come on and the dryer wouldn’t do anything. I checked the breaker box and the breakers had not kicked. Lowe’s replaced this dryer with a new Maytag Centennial model. It worked just fine until this week, but now it isn’t producing any heat. Again, the breaker box looks fine. I even flipped them off and on, but still no heat. Is it possible there is a problem within my breaker box, even though they are not kicking?

Lowe’s is telling me they think it’s an electrical problem even though each dryer had different problems.

When I turn on our Maytag dryer, I can hear the timer start up, but the motor does nothing. If I click through the cycles, I can get it to turn briefly in a Fluff cycle, but when I release the selector, it sounds the finish alarm and quits. If I hold the selector, it will continue spinning. The heat settings do not respond at all.

There is not sufficient information in your description of the symptoms to give you a direction to work. You can try submitting more details of what is happening via these comments (include your model number), or it might be better if you called the nearest U-FIX-IT store where we can ask you questions directly.

Hi Jim,
My Whirlpool Cabrio electric dryer Model WED6400SW1 is turning but will not heat. I checked for air flow restrictions inside and out. The technician came out and possibly tested everything you mentioned with his devices, which were all to satisfaction. Finally, he called into the office and they came up with a diagnosis of “the motor was bad.” Could this be possible with everything else working on the dryer?

Yes. It is possible for a “bad motor” to cause the symptom of “turning but not heating” in a Whirlpool Cabrio electric dryer. I know it seems unlikely the motor could be bad when the motor is running. There is a risk the dryer might catch fire when the motor stops running if power continues to be supplied to the heating element. To prevent that risk of fire, power to the element is routed through a switch on the motor that only supplies power to the element when the motor is running. In your case, the switch has malfunctioned and has cut the power to the heating element even though the motor is running. If you trace the circuit on your dryer’s wiring schematic you will see the circuit for the heating element goes through the motor. Even though the switch on some motors can be replaced without replacing the motor, the recommended fix is to replace the motor. You can prove the switch is bad by measuring the voltage across the two terminals of the switch while the dryer is running. If the voltage reads 220 volts to 240 volts the switch is bad.

Jim,
I have an Amana dryer. After moving into new home and plugging it in. I tested it out just to make sure that it heated and the drum went around. The whole machine got hot the touch. Now all I get is that it runs but does not heat up. I thought it was the element, but after reviewing comments it may the breaker as well. The fan blows and all, just no heat.

Since the dryer operated correctly at the old location and failed in the new home, it is logical to look at the new location as the cause. Your description, “The whole machine got hot the touch,” leads me to believe the dryer probably overheated and burned out the internal fuse due to an air flow restriction in the vent duct of your new home. Disconnect the vent hose from the dryer and verify that the dryer has robust air flow leaving the dryer. Reconnect the vent hose and then check for a similar robust air flow exiting the vent outside your home. I suspect you have a restriction in your home’s duct probably caused by a lint buildup. Clear the restriction and replace the fuse and you should be good to go. If there is no restriction, additional trouble shooting is required. Call your nearest U-FIX-IT store if you have additional questions.

Ok, I have a Cabrio gas dryer that the heating will start and then thurn off the fire will not blow out once it has reached a certain temp. So I checked all sensors everything was fine. So I checked the thermistor and got no reading. I ordered the part. when I recieved the part, right out of the package it didnt read at all. Does the thermistor have a reading when on Ohams reading? will the thermistor be the problem? when the unit is cold it will run and blow heat of awhile then stop? Need your help

Yes, the thermistor for your Cabrio dryer can be tested with an ohm meter. The resistance(ohm) reading will vary with the temperature in the room and with the exact thermistor on your dryer. If you will post a model number I can give you the ohm reading for your thermistor and give you a better idea of how to proceed with troubleshooting. For immediate help call the nearest U-FIX-IT Store.

Hey Jim a mouse got stuck in the back of my dryer (whirlpool) where the power cord has the three wires in (power cord connection). Now the dryer spins and blows great air but no heat! No chew marks on any wires, no droppings, no black scorch marks… Could the circuit breaker (on the wall at home) have messed up? I flipped itbin and back off, but it didn’t fix it. So I was thinking maybe it totally malfunctioned. It never blew when the mouse was stuck. It was still in the on position

Tiffinee,
Yes, the malfunction with your Whirlpool dryer can be a faulty circuit breaker. In some instances the circuit may show 220 volts when tested and the breaker is still bad. If there is no visible damage at the terminal block where the mouse met his demise, then I would be inclined to replace the breaker and see if that repairs the problem. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store if you have more questions.

Hi Jim,
I have a whirlpool dryer, model # WED5510VQ1, that will heat up for the 1st load (about 30 minutes or so). But when I put in another load to dry, it does not heat up.
I suspect the High Limit Thermostat needs to be replaced. I was told it can be something else, like the timer.
I did clean out behind and under the dryer and there was a lot of lint build-up. I think this caused an air-flow issue and it in turn caused the heating to malfunction. I also did take the back panel off and cleaned out the inside. I know there is no issue of air being blocked as there is a strong flow at the outside vent.
Can you give me what you think it is that is causing the heating issue? Can it be something else beside the 2 things I noted above? Can I can use a multi-meter to pinpoint the cause? Thank you in advance.

Your suspicion of the high limit thermostat causing the “no Heat” problem on your Whirlpool dryer makes sense. The high limit thermostat cuts the power to the heating element and will reset after it cools. You can confirm your diagnosis by running the dryer until it will not heat, disconnect the power to the dryer, disconnect at least one of the wires on the high limit thermostat and then (using your multi-meter) check for continuity (a connection) between the two terminals on the high limit thermostat. If there is “no continuity” then the high limit thermostat is the cause of the “no heat” condition. While this test confirms where power is being interrupted, it does not prove a defective thermostat. If replacing the high limit thermostat does not change the symptoms, then most likely there is an air flow problem. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for additional troubleshooting assistance if needed.

Kind of back to square one here. I tested all the parts on the back panel and they all have continuity. I checked the timer and that was ok. I checked the outlet to see if a wire could have been loose, but this was not an issue as well.
A question I have is the heating element. Is this part all or nothing? The reason is that the dryer does give out heat, but it goes cold after about 30 minutes. I have to let it sit for 2-3 hours for it to heat again and even this is not consistent. Is is possible for the heating element to be defective and still give out heat at time? It has continuity per my multi-meter. That is why I ask if this part is all or nothing. The coils are all black, but this might be due to it being red hot and then turning black. I see that the coils on new heating elements are silver in color.
If this is not an issue for the heating element, then what should I look at next? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.

I should add that the air flow should not be an issue. I have cleaned out the duct and vent and all of the parts to the dryer as well. The air coming out to the outside vent is very strong so this should not be an issue.

Kyle,
Can a Whirlpool dryer heating element work intermittently? Yes, it is possible, but very unusual. You can test for this with your multi-meter set to measure volts. With the dryer running, wait for the dryer to stop heating. Measure the voltage with one probe on the terminal going into the element and the other probe on the terminal coming out of the element. If the voltage reads 220 to 240 volts while the element is not heating, then the element is bad. The probes must be placed as described for the test to work. If the voltage reads zero, the element is good. Call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you if you have questions about the procedure.

DRYER STARTS NO HEAT
110.60994990 KENMORE
4 SENSORS HAVE BEEN CHECKED AT STORE AS WELL AS HEATING ELEMENT WHICH IS FAIRLY NEW ABOUT A MONTH OLD ON OFF SWITCH CHECKED IN STORE TIMER CHECKED FUSE BLOCK CHECKED AND OUTLET CHECKED
DRYER WILL NOT HEAT ALSO DRYER TURNS ON AFTER I SET TIMER WITHOUT EVEN PRESSING ON OFF BUTTON ALL SYMPTOMS STARTED FEW DAYS AGO
PLEASE HELP THEY ARE OUT OF IDEAS AT THE STORE.
THANKS

Jarek,
Your Kenmore “no heat” dryer malfunction (or malfunctions) is not apparent from your description. It will be more efficient for you to call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you for “one on one” troubleshooting assistance.

Insufficient heat in a Whirlpool dryer can be caused by restricted air flow which causes the heating element to “short cycle.” The air flow can be checked by holding your hand in front the dryer vent outside while the dryer is running. If you think the air flow is good, it probably is. If you do not think it seems strong enough, then investigate further. Check for restrictions at the outside vent and work your way back to the dryer. Low heat can be caused by less common malfunctions. Call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you for additional troubleshooting assistance.

Patricia,
My dryer is “Smoking” is a symptom that will certainly get your attention! We need more information to help you identify the malfunction. It may be best for you to call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you with your model number and let us help you through the troubleshooting process.

Hey Jim, I have a Kenmore model 86582110. The high limit thermostat was broken upon inspection. the dryer was not heating and I noticed some of the wires connected to the thermostat were burnt looking. This is a really old dryer and the plastic part of the hi limit therm. is just worn out. Is it OK if I just bypass the hi limit therm and use it like that? Thanks a lot!

Adam,
It is really a bad idea to bypass the hi limit thermostat! Safeties (high limit thermostats) are on the dryer to prevent burning down your home. Informed substitutions can be made that will not compromise safety, but I would be surprised if the correct replacement is unavailable. Older dryers tended to have “generic” (off the shelf) safeties. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for help in locating the correct replacement part.

So my dryer wouldn’t start. When you press the start button down it turns the motor and everything runs fine until you let go. I checked all the connections and contacts and everything was great electrically. Replaced the thermal fuse and still nothing. Decided to just put a book on the button and let her go. Then I discovered it wasn’t heating even when it ran. Would the heating element cause this?

Ben,
Your dryer symptom indicates you have a bad motor. The “push to start” button provides electricity to the start winding inside the motor. Once the motor starts a centrifugal switch on the motor closes and provides electric power to the run winding inside the motor which allows the motor to continue to run after the “push to start” button is released. In addition, the centrifugal switch must be closed for the heating element to receive power (as a safety). Continuous running of the motor on the start winding will cause it to overheat. I know it seems strange that a motor that will start is “bad,” but that is what you have. Call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you for confirmation your motor is bad.

I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 dryer that won’t heat. I have replaced the thermostat, the high limit cutoff, the heating element, and the thermistor. I get everything put back together and turn it on, and it blows really hot air for a while, but then it goes cool. When I get back into the machine the high limit cutoff is tripped in the sense that it tests open when I use a multimeter. I have tried two or three different replacement cutoffs, but if I tap them on the ground they test showing continuity on the multimeter. I have taken it apart 5 or 6 times now and it’s the same result – it heats for a while, then nothing. I suspect the heater gets too hot and it shuts off, but never kicks back on. It runs fine otherwise e.g. no problems with the controls or error messages and airflow isn’t blocked. Any help is much appreciated.

Cort,
I suspect an airflow problem. Try following 2 tests. Remove the lint filter and run a small amount of water into it. The water should flow through. If the water beads up, then the filter needs to be scrubbed until the water flows through. The second test. Hold the motor pulley and check to see if the blower wheel turns on the shaft. If it turns, replace the blower wheel. If neither test yields results, call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for troubleshooting assistance.

Jim,
I have a Whirlpool Comfort Care II dryer, that I have replaced, now, 4 thermal fuses, within the last 3 weeks. I seem to have good air flow Out of my vent, to the outside, but continuity with the heating element and the other thermostats and fuses. Originally, I replaced the heating element, thermostat, and thermostat fuse. Could the new thermostat be tripping the thermostat fuse? Or, am I missing something?

I suspect an airflow problem. Try the following 2 tests. Remove the lint filter and run a small amount of water into it. The water should flow through. If the water beads up, then the filter needs to be scrubbed until the water flows through. The second test. Hold the motor pulley and check to see if the blower wheel turns on the shaft. If it turns, replace the blower wheel. If neither test yields results, call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for troubleshooting assistance.

A careful review of all the actions you made while making the repair will probably lead you to find a wire you failed to plug back where it goes, or a connection that is not making good contact. If everything is looking good to you and it is still not heating. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store with your model number and we will work through it with you.

My whirlpool electric dryer is not heating up again,I have replaced the thermostat 3 times now and each time they tend to burn out.After installing new thermostat,it works fine for a awhile (after many loads).checked element,fuse and air flow all is well.So,what makes the thermostat to keep burning out.Your suggestion and opinions in this matter is much appreciated.Thank you

Ricard,
The repeated failure of your high limit thermostat on your Whirlpool dryer is indicating an air flow problem. The premature failure is caused by the thermostat being exposed to heat it is not designed to live in. Because you are getting many loads between failures and you did not mention the dryer is overheating, I suspect that your air flow is almost good enough. Test your lint screen by removing it from the dryer and run a small amount of water into it. If the water beads up, then scrub the lint screen until the water flows through it. Lint screens can acquire a clear coating that restricts air flow. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for the next step if the lint screen is not the problem.

Whirlpool model LER4634PQ0. Heating element broken. Will this cause issues with the timer as well? Should I replace both the heating coil and the dryer timer? I ask this because the dryer will run all night now when set for any time, but I never noticed that problem prior to the heating element failing. Thanks.

Dave,
I recommend replacing the element first and see if the other symptom disappears. There are some Whirlpool dryers that will run continuously when the element burns and then welds to the housing providing a circuit for the timer to run. The timer is probably O.K. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for additional troubleshooting assistance.

I have a Whirpool Duet WED9400SW1 Electric dryer. All of my control panel lights will come on, but the dryer won’t start. I’ve tracked down a technical guide to help with troubleshooting. The dryer gave a F30 code which means air flow. I tested the thermal fuse and it was bad so I replaced it along with thoroughly cleaned out the lint from underneath the dryer and hoses. Put a new fuse in and within an hour of drying a load, it went out again. I put a new fuse in again and left the vent house unattached and in the troublshooting mode went through the airflow testing which resulted in “normal” air flow. So I kept the hose disconnected and proceeded to dry another load of laundry, then it stopped working again. I have pulled off the thermistor and holding the sensor, tested to see if the resistance changed with the heat from my hand, and it did. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated? Next steps?

Rob,
It is time to look at the less obvious air flow restriction. Remove the lint screen and discard the lint as you normally do. The sprinkle water onto the lint screen. If the water beads up and rolls around on the lint screen, then scrub it with a detergent and try the test again until the water flows through it. Lint screens can accumulate a clear coating that will restrict air flow that is difficult to see. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT if you have questions.

I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer WED9400SW1, I got into the troubleshoot mode and was given an F30 code – air flow. So I’ve thoroughly cleaned out all the lint from inside the dryer. Unplugged it and still no luck. Is there an air flow sensor that needs to be replaced or tested or a way to reset the code? Thank you!

Remove your lint screen and wipe out the lint. Then, sprinkle a few drops of water on the lint screen. If the water beads up and rolls around on the screen, it has probably acquired a clear coating that restricts air flow. Scrubbing the lint screen with a detergent will remove the coating and allow the air to flow through the lint screen properly. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store if you have additional questions.

The circuit board in my Whirlpool dryer model #GEW9868KQ1 failed. Replaced it with a re-manufactured board, which promptly failed. Returned it for a replacement board which I installed and the dryer will operate. However, it’s now not heating to dry the clothes. Before I follow the steps and recommendations outlined in your article and your posts, I thought I’d ask if the lack of heat might have anything to do with the circuit board having failed.

John,
Yes, the board failure on you Whirlpool dryer may be related to the current “no heat” symptom. Electronic control boards are sensitive to electrical surges such as a lightening strike nearby. The surges can also cause the internal fuse to blow as well. If it was my dryer, I would be tempted to check the continuity of the fuse (located on the blower housing under the drum) before working through the other steps. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT if for additional help.

My dryer is stats stuck in cycle and won’t stop spinning unless I open it. If I start the dry cycle on low heat, high heat, or timed….the dial just stays wherever I start it and doesn’t move and the buzzer never goes off. The disk isn’t obstructed or stuck. And I know it isn’t a stuck dryer start switch because I have to press the start button to turn it back on after I open door. What could keep my dryer from going through the progressions of each dry cycle? Timer?

Jeff,
A dryer timer that will not advance when it is set for a timed dry is bad. I know I preach “it is usually in not the timer,” but in your case, you have all of the classic symptoms of a bad timer.

Thanks for any help. We have a Whirlpool gas dryer and it worked fine yesterday. Today, the electrical outlet trips every time I plug in the dryer. I push in the red button to reset and it immediately trips when I plug in the dryer. I checked the breaker in the main breaker box and it is fine. Any suggestions? Thx again.

When I set the timer and push start, nothing happens. The only way to get the dryer to start is to HOLD IN the START BUTTON and slowly turn the timer clockwise and counterclockwise until it starts. It doesn’t last long then it quits. The only spot on the timer where it starts is at the end of the cycle. When it is started there seems to be no heat, however it may be because it is during the “low/no heat part of the cycle”.

I took the back off of the dryer and bypassed the thermal fuse. The problem is still present. Now my model dryer also contains what is called a “THERMAL CUT OUT FUSE KIT”. I didn’t bother to bypass those yet. I don’t know if I need to because I am leaning towards the TIMER.

It’s not the THERMAL FUSE, DOOR SWITCH, obviously anything to do with the motor, drum, or drum parts (belts, pulleys, etc). Would it be safe to say it is the timer? When just physically turning the timer there seems to be no issues. There is no resistance. It turns smoothly and clicks when it should at the end/beginning of cycle. Is there anything else that would cause the timer to work as described above, or is it definitely the timer. HELP!

To systematically isolate your problem, I suggest you invest in a multi-meter so you can read voltage. It can be purchased for as little as $15. Make your purchase from someone who will explain how to read voltage and how to do a continuity check. Armed with that information and a wiring diagram (usually found on the dryer) you can “see” the voltage going to the timer and the voltage leaving the timer going toward the motor. If “see” voltage going in and coming out, then the timer is good. If voltage is going in, but not coming out, then the timer is bad.

The symptoms you give are not pointing toward specific malfunction, hence my advice to acquire a multi-meter.

Thank you so much for your time. Quick question…The vendor where I would be purchasing the part(s) has a real good return policy. If I end up purchasing the timer and find out that it isn’t the timer, they will return it for ANY reason up to 365 days.

Based on the erratic behavior of the switch described above, if you had to take a quick guess, the switch? If it ends up it isn’t, I will return it. What’s your thoughts my good man?

Anthony,
When you purchase parts from someone who will take back parts that have been installed, you may be purchasing a part that has been installed before. The need for troubleshooting goes up not down when you install used parts(especially electrical parts). Now that you are “swapping parts” instead of troubleshooting it really does not matter where you start. I pray you will find the offending part sooner rather than later.

I tested all heating components and found my issue to be the heating element. Went to a local appliance store and bought a new one, replaced it and I now have heat once again. However it used to take half the time to dry. It is taking me 2 hours to dry a load of light clothes. Could I have been sold a generic part that doesn’t work as well? Any idea why? Everything else seems to be just fine.

Susan,
There are elements that look identical but have different wattage ratings (power ratings). It would be very unusual for the difference in wattage to double the drying time. I suggest a review of the steps you took as you accomplished the repair. Your change in drying time may be do to something that was done inadvertently during the repair process. I would be especially vigilant for anything that could affect air flow such as a kinked vent hose or a partially blocked vent. Call your nearest U-FIX-IT store if you need any additional help.

Great info on the site. I have an Inglis electric dryer that works fine on the low and medium heat settings but on the high heat setting continually blows the fuse at the panel. Any thoughts on what might cause this?

Hi, we have had 3 dryers now that run but wont heat. 2 were used but one was in good condition, and the 3rd is also used but from a good local dealer who fixes them up for resale. He gave us a 2 year warranty so I didn’t figure him to sell something that don’t work right. The hose wasnt plugged in so cant be clogged. I checked the breaker and the plug, and am getting 220v at both ends (the line and breaker box are new). Surely they cant all be broken?? Thanks

Hi,
I have a Whirlpool Duet electric dryer. It’s 11 years old and recently had been slow to dry clothes either on timed or auto settings. I read this and many other forums and websites and watched several youtube videos on dryer repair. I tested many things with an ohm meter and know how to take my dryer apart 🙂 In the end the dryer is fine. 1/2 of my 220volt power outlet was malfunctioning. There was enough power to turn on the dryer and run the motor but not enough to fully heat the element. There was a bad wire inside the outlet. All fixed now.

I have a whirlpool electric dyer.its stop heating up.i replace the bad element and also the thermostat.its turning but still no heat.i need help any suggestion?also how do I know if I’m getting 220 volt on my dryer?how do I check the circuit breaker?

The easiest way to know you are getting 220 volts to your Whirlpool Electric dryer is with a volt meter. Remove the small access cover on the back of the dryer where the cord enters the dryer. Place a meter probe on the two outside posts where the dryer cord attaches. If you do not see 220 volts, you have an electrical problem, not a dryer problem.

If you are reading 220 volts, please revisit the article “Whirlpool Electric Dryer Turns but Will Not Heat.” It will lead you through a step by step procedure to identify the problem. You have already done the first two steps.

My friend bought an older house and I brought my old washer/dryer with me from my old apartment. The set worked well before delivery, but when the dryer was plugged in, it wouldn’t heat. The contractor said that it was plugged in alright and it was getting enough power. Since we trusted the contractor (great guy), we bought a new used dryer from a place in town. The new dryer, a Kenmore, ran a few times, and then it too stopped heating. The repair man came out and said it was a fuse in the dryer and has repaired it several times. Does this sound like it is an issue with the wiring in the house or the dryer?

This sounds like an air flow problem. Because both your old dryer and your new(er) Kenmore dryer are having problems, it suggests the location (the house) is causing the problem. Fuse failures can be caused by insufficient air flow. The vent can be the cause if your vent pipe is restricted, unusually long, or going through the roof. Booster pumps are available to boost the air flow while the dryer is running to solve the long run or vertical problems. Of course, removing the restriction is the solution for restricted air flow.

Hello. I had just purchased a new Kenmore 6.5 cu. ft. Electric Dryer Item # 02661402000P Model # 61402 from Sears a couple of weeks ago and we had just recently moved into an older house this past summer as well. My dryer will heat up fine and spin but it will take me at least 3x to dry my loads until they are completely dry. I went outside to check the air flow leaving the vent and it is not strong at all. I even had my dad come check and he said everything seemed fine but was confused on why it would take so many loads to dry, then he said since its a cheaper dryer it will take longer but I do not believe that theory. I am out of solution and want to fix this on my own before I would have to pay someone to come check it out. Please help me!

You state the air flow leaving the vent is not strong at all when you check it outside. Disconnect your Kenmore dryer from the vent and check the air flow as it is exiting the dryer. If the air flow is strong at the dryer (and I suspect it is since it is a new dryer), then check the vent pipe for a restriction between the dryer and outside. If the length of the vent pipe is over 8 feet or if the vent is going through the roof, you may need a booster pump that mounts in the vent pipe and runs whenever the dryer is running. More than two 90 degree turns in the vent pipe can be a restriction as well that can be overcome with a booster pump. The lower price dryers should still dry a normal load of clothes in a single cycle.

Jim, I did what you suggested but the clothes still won’t dry. Also, while drying, the access water seems to coming out, making the floor wet. My husband said the problem is our washer spinning only at 700rmp that it is not getting rid of the water as good as better washer spinning at 1000rmp. Could that be a factor in my clothes not drying?

Yes, the washer must spin the water out the clothes sufficiently for the dryer to work properly. If you have water dripping from the clothes as you put them in the dryer, that will certainly cause the dryer to leak.

Hi, I have a Kenmore duet dryer that is not heating properly. I have had a repairman come out twice to look at it. The first time he replaced the heating coil and the second time he said that he couldn’t find anu thing wrong so he recommended that we have our dryer duct cleaned. I have now had the dryer duct cleaning company out to check our ducts twice and the dryer still isn’t working. Any idea what it could be?

I need more information to be able to point you in the right direction. Is your Kenmore Duet dryer located where it is now when it last worked correctly? Does the dryer heat properly with the vent disconnected? Why was the duct cleaning company called out a second time? You describe the dryer as “not heating properly.” Does that mean the dryer is not running as hot as it did in the past, or are drying times longer? It may be easier to guide you to a solution if you call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free assistance in determining your malfunction.

I have a may tag centennial and it doesn’t heat up. I left it on high heat and it ran all night. I changed to different setting and not heating. How do I fix this? I flipped the breaker to see if it would reset and it didn’t do anything.

Jim:
I have a Maytag MDE2400AYW electric dryer. It was heating well, but had a noisy blower. It went to the shop and received a new blower, but since it returned it just barely gets warm. I replaced the heating element, control panel, both thermostats, and thermistor, although the last three components tested OK. Still very low heat. Duct are clean. 240 V power is fine. The heating element is receiving 240 volts and glowing. In this model, the blower pulls air through the door, bringing heat in through the back of the drum. Exhaust air flow seems OK. I am wondering if the air is leaking around the seal at the front of the drum, so very little air is being pulled over the element and heated. Perhaps a seal was left out when the blower was replaced?? I am running out of ideas on this problem and any help would be much appreciated.

Kian,
Your Kenmore Dryer needs a new motor. I know it seems like you have good motor, but you don’t. When the motor is good, the start button supplies voltage to the “start winding” of the motor which causes the motor to start and run. As the motor comes up to speed, the centrifugal switch (which is a part of the motor) closes and supplies voltage to the “run winding” of the motor. Releasing the start button removes voltage from the “start winding,” but the motor will continue to run because it has voltage to the “run winding.” When a Kenmore dryer runs only while the start button is depressed, the motor is bad.

Your second symptom of no heat should go away when the motor is replaced. The heating element is wired through the centrifugal switch on the motor to prevent the element from heating when the motor is not running. In your case, the same centrifugal switch (in the motor) is preventing the heat and preventing the motor from running. If you have any additional questions call your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts Store.

I have a Whirlpool Dryer Model # W10185982 and the dryer is not heating on the timed cycle, but heats for the other cycles. It also take a couple of cycles for the clothes to dry even on the other cycles. We have checked all vents and they were all clear. Our vents exhaust up to the roof of our place as it is a second floor laundry room, but there was no blockage.

Help please don’t have a lot of money to fix it and hoping it is something cheaper to fix.

The number you included as your Whirlpool dryer model number is the part number of the timer. Locating a wiring diagram will be your most helpful tool for narrowing the search. The timed dry and the “more dry-less dry” cycles use some different components in their respective circuits. You are looking for a component that is exclusive to the timed dry circuit.

The exhaust going through the roof is always problematic for home dryers. They are not designed to push the air vertically or long distances (over 10 feet) efficiently. Dryer booster fans can be installed behind the dryer in the duct work to make the dryer perform normally. Without a booster fan, your dryer will continue to take longer to dry even after the timed dry problem is located. We have the booster fans available. Call your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts Store if you have additional questions.

I have a Maytag MED5630TG0 Electric Dryer and had a repair man out to take a look. He told me that it was a bad timer since it was only returning 110v instead of 220v. Dryer tumbles, but no heat. I went ahead and bought a timer and swapped it out only to find the same problem occurring still. Any thoughts on what would cause this?

Matt,
Your Maytag dryer was built by Whirlpool. All of the information above about troubleshooting a “Whirlpool dryer that turns but will not heat” will work for your dryer. Your element, thermostats, and fuses are accessed by removing the back of the dryer. Let me know if you need additional assistance after completing the steps outlined in above, or you can call the nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store.

I have a Whirlpool Dryer LGN2000PW0, It turns but there is no heat. I have replaced all the fuses and thermostats on the parts list, but still nothing works to heat it. I know most Dryers have elements, but it looks like this one doesn’t. I believe this model is made to be either gas or electric, but we have always used it as electric. The only other part I can see after researching that could possibly be the issue is the Igniter kit, but would that be used even if it’s electric? Could this be the problem?
Thanks

Kent,
The Whirlpool model number you list is for a gas dryer. If you have been using it as an electric only dryer, then there will be no heat just air. The electric version of your dryer would be LEN2000PWO. Start with verifying the model number on the sticker next to the opening (where you put the clothes) after you open the door. The ignitor is the most common item to fail on gas dryers. You can bring your ignitor to the nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts Store for free testing.

I have a Roper REK2950KQ1 electric coin-op dryer. I am told the issue is insufficient drying as clothes are always damp after the fixed 60-min cycle, on high.

I cleaned lint filter, checked for clogs and air flow is really good. Heating element turns on. With the rear service cover off, the element is always on during the cycle, no cycling. I put in a wet full sheet to test and it dried within 15 minutes.

I didn’t research testing the other parts (cycling and high limit thermos) but the thermal fuse works, obviously.

I closed it all up and ran it empty. Noticed the following cycling times (in seconds) for the heating element:

on 40
off 70
on 27
off 72
on 30
off 80

Are these cycle times short, correct? If you can confirm the operating temps for the thermos I will test.

As for the cycling thermo, it is a four terminal one. I have read that the outer terminals should go open at 120-160 deg but what about the inner ones? I assume the inner onesa re for the lower heat temps?

Art,
Short cycle times of the element on your Roper electric dryer are most likely caused by an airflow problem. You indicate the short cycle goes away when the service door is removed. If the vent pipe remained attached during the time the service door was off, then the dryer is being starved for air it is trying to draw into the blower. If the vent pipe was disconnected, then look for a restriction in the vent pipe. Call the U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts Store nearest you for assistance if you have additional questions.

The exhaust was disconnected throughout the troubleshooting. The flow from the blower and through the exhaust (to the outside world) is very strong without any signs of clogging. I even took out the lint filter housing and there was no sign of blockage. Also, the vents on the servie door leading to the “intake” are not clogged.

I suppose I can try attaching the exhaust and running it without the service door in place.

So, let me ask you…what should the cycle time be, roughly? A minute, two minutes…?

Art,
Cycle times are going to vary with each installation due to air flow. Suffice it to say, the 30 to 40 second times you reported are too short. You achieved satisfactory drying results with the sheet that was dry in 15 minutes. That gives us a starting point. Restore the dryer to the configuration you had at the time of the “sheet test.” You may even want to duplicate the test to verify your starting point. Then add one item (such as the exhaust duct) at a time back to the configuration and repeat the test. A moment will come when the item added will cause the dryer to fail the test and thus expose itself.

Your mention of the filter housing prompts me to suggest a test for your lint filter. Remove the lint screen and run a small amount of water into the screen. It should flow through the screen. If the water beads up and resists flowing through, it needs scrubbing. Fabric softener towelettes inserted in the dryer can cause a clear coating to form on the lint screen which will restrict air flow. Scrubbing the screen with a brush and some detergent will restore the lint screen to original specs. You will know when it is clean by repeating the water flow test.

If the lint screen passes the test, then the step by step approach in the first paragraph will identify the problem. I look forward to hearing your results.

Jerry,
Overheating and blowing the thermal fuse on a Whirlpool electric dryer is most commonly caused by air flow problems. However, your symptom of overheating when using “air dry” points toward and element that may be touching the housing causing a short circuit. A visual inspection of the element and housing will reveal scorch marks at the point the element is contacting the housing. Call the U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store nearest you for free assistance if you need additional help.

Hi my names John and my whirlpool electric dyer heated up now it’s not I do not believe it is a heating element nor my voltage to it I have it hooked straight to a breaker I must know if it’s 1 of the 2 back sensors or mother nature attacked it. It is an outside dyer if that matters thank you

John,
Start the troubleshooting process on your Whirlpool Electric dryer by measuring the voltage at the dryer connections for the cord with a multi-meter. The voltage must read 220 volts between the two outside connections. The connection to the breaker is not a guarantee that you have 220 volts at the dryer. If you need additional help after confirming the 220 volts, bring the dryer wiring diagram to the U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts Store nearest you or you can call for free assistance.

Intermittent problems can be the most difficult to locate. The malfunction in your Whirlpool electric dryer (or any brand dryer for that matter) can only be located while it is showing itself. Thant being said, it is possible for heating elements to burn in two and then ground against the housing. Vibration, expansion and contraction during the heating cycle can cause the element to lose contact with the housing. I recommend a visual inspection to confirm the condition of the element. If the element is in good condition then wait until the dryer is malfunctioning and then read the voltage across each component in the circuit (with the element) while the dryer is running. Good components will have a voltage reading of zero (between the terminal going in and the terminal coming out), and the bad component will have a reading of 220 volts. Be careful not to touch bare terminals, or short the terminals to ground with the probes. 220 volts is still present when reading zero across the terminals. Call the U-FIX-IT store closest to you or bring your dryer wiring diagram into the store for additional help in diagnosing your problem.

One of the components in the moisture sensor circuit is the likely cause of your symptom. Call your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance parts store with your Whirlpool model number for assistance in locating the specific problem.

I have a roper dryer. It’s been taking longer to dry so I took it apart and cleaned the back hiding lint section. Now it’s only starting on the fast dry 30 minute cycle and will every now and then continue to run past the 30 minutes. Is it the element? Or something else?

Nichole,
A visual inspection of the element can show if it is bad. Bad elements will have a break in the element wire if it is bad. Your description seems to indicate that the dryer is heating under some settings which would mean the element is good. Bad elements do not get hot. Dryers need heat and strong air flow to dry clothes efficiently. Determine which one of those things you are lacking. That will point you in the right direction to determine the problem. I don’t have enough information to give a definitive answer. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for personalized trouble shooting assistance.

I have a Samsung electric dryer. It spins but won’t heat. The coil and all components all test OK. If I let the coil touch the housing it sits in then it will heat. That is the only way I can get the coil to energize is by grounding it to the shield. Any idea what is going on?

You do not have a complete electrical circuit to the Samsung dryer heating element. By touching the element to the housing you are completing the circuit to ground. Be aware you may receive an electrical shock from the cabinet while the element is grounded to the housing. A wiring diagram can identify the components in the heater circuit. Fuses and thermostats are the common items to fail in dryer heater circuits. Take you wiring diagram to the nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store if you need assistance in determining which components to test on your Samsung Dryer.

I have a Whirlpool dryer that that takes two or three times to dry. I checked the circuit breaker and the dryer is on to breakers by itself. The heating element was changed out by the maintenance man and it worked for about a month then its back to not drying. Not sure if i should replace the heating element again.

A visual inspection of the Whirlpool heating element will prove if it is good or bad. The element wire will be broken if it is bad. The heating element may still be in warranty if it has failed after only a month. A failure of a thermostat or fuse can cause the same symptom of “turning but not heating” that a failed heating element does. Call your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store for help if you have questions as you looking for the problem.

Hi, Jim.
I am having the same problem…My Whirlpool dryer was working great a couple days ago. I did laundry again today and it took twice to dry the jeans, three times to dry a 1/2 load of towels and 3 times to mostly dry a small load of t-shirts. I took the dryer apart and cleaned every thing. I looked over the heating element and did not notice broken coils, but did notice that the top 3-4 coils and behind looked black. I can’t remember if they looked like that when I cleaned my dryer last fall.
Thanks for any advice!

Black around the heating element can be an indicator of an air flow problem. The dryer will take longer to dry the clothes anytime there is insufficient air flow. Start outside where dryer vent exits the house if you can and hold your hand in front of the vent. The air should be blowing against your hand vigorously. If not check for obstructions in the vent before going back inside. Disconnect the vent at the dryer and check the air flow again. If the airflow is vigorous there. Then the problem is between that connection and outside. Find the obstruction and clear. If your vent is exiting through the ceiling (roof) then call the U-FIX-IT store and let us talk with you about the options. If the airflow is not good coming out the back of the dryer, then check the internal duct for an obstruction. If duct is clear try cleaning the lint screen with a mild detergent and a brush to remove a possible buildup of a clear residue. Finally hold the motor pulley and verify the blower wheel fits snugly on the shaft. The blower wheel should not turn when you are holding the motor pulley tight. If you have not identified the problem after completing these checks call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you and we will help you find the solution.

I have an Estate electric dryer model EED4400WQO. All dryer settings dry okay except for the timed dry. When starting the timed cycle at 60 to 40 minutes the heat turns on and dries clothes with a medium load to mostly dry. Turning the timed dry back on to less than 40 minutes produces no heat. The auto sense cycle, high heat, works okay. If I restart the dryer in the timed dry, high heat, for 60 to 40 minutes, the dryer heats okay.

Your symptoms are very detailed, but they need clarification with a number of question and answers that would be tedious and inefficient in this forum. Please call the nearest U-FIX-IT appliance parts store for assistance in stepping through your symptoms.

Whirlpool LE7680XP tumbles but no heat- power source OK as spare dryer works fine – fuse in heater box replaced as it failed continuity test. I replaced the heating element and tested the other fuses – all good. I believe I am down to the timer or possibly a switch in the motor. What ever went wrong it appears that two things happened at the same time – is there a connection between blowing the heater box fuse and another part that may have expired simultaneously. By the way air flow is good. Any clues?

Air flow is the most common cause of blowing the heater box fuse. A pinched dryer hose can be the restriction that disappears when we begin working on the dryer. It is possible to have multiple items fail simultaneously, but it is very unusual. You have eliminated the common items that produce your symptoms which means it is time to look at the less common causes. The timer an be tested by disconnecting the power and checking for continuity between the terminals that are supposed to be closed. The wiring diagram will guide you in this. If the timer tests good, then the motor switch must be tested while the motor is running. Call your nearest U-FIX-IT store or come by with your wiring diagram for free assistance if you have questions as you are testing.

Have a Whirlpool LEQ8611LG0 120/240V 28A 60Hz dryer. It does not heat up (not drying). Need to run through a second cycle before clothes start to dry. This past attempt sparks (short) from wires inside top back of dryer. Not sure why they’re sparking but dryer is not usable now (It’s unplugged). Not sure what to check nor how.

Bill,
Start with a visual inspection. Sparking leaves scorch and burn marks that can lead you to the source of the problem. Start with by inspecting the terminal block on your Whirlpool electric dryer. Follow the cord to the dryer and remove the inspection plate located closest to it (make certain the dryer is unplugged). Terminal blocks do go bad and begin conducting electricity. The wires can break off near the terminal. Both of these occurrences can cause sparking. You may need a new cord or a new terminal block or both. If you have any questions as you get into it, call your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store for assistance and tech tips.

Hi, I came home a while ago and my dryer would spin and not heat up. I thought maybe it was just old. So I bought another used one and that didn’t work either. I replaced it and bought a brand new dryer and the same problem persisted, spins but won’t heat up. I did some digging and I measured from both hot wires to neutral and ground and had about 110v and around 220v between the two hot wires. I don’t believe the problem is the dryer at all, but the wiring out of the wall seems all good. Any suggestions?

Tyler,
I agree, the dryer is not likely the problem. If you used the old cord on the new dryer, I recommend checking the continuity on all three legs. It may be time to have an electrician look for the problem with the circuit if the cord checks out O.K. Feel free to call your closest U-FIX-IT store for additional assistance.

(Whirlpool ELECTRIC DRYER WED5100QV1)Dryer turns on and advances but no heat. Lent was cleaned out but not much build up.
I have checked the heating coils thermal/high limit and timer/motor,all the thermostats and fuse,and the voltage on the dryer cord FOR CONTINUITY and all was good. I am not sure how to test the temperture switch which is burnt on the back end(I can send a pic)

Chester,
Yes, the burned area on the temperature switch bears closer inspection. You can take the switch to closest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts Store and we will assist you with the trouble shooting, or you can email a picture to sales@ufixit.com.

Hi Jim,
I have the same exact problem as Chester did from November 4, 2014 posting with the exception that I have tested everything and everything has continuity. I have an electric Whirlpool Model WED5200VQ1.The dryer does not dry unless there is a ticking sound coming from the knob and that it a rarity to get. I have to turn it multiple times in both directions to get the ticking sound and the clothes to dry, and sometimes that doesn’t even work. Any suggestions on what to do next? Also, I did not find any U-Fix-It in my area.

Derek,
The burned resistor on a Whirlpool dryer (LER4634EQ2) can be caused by a short in the heater since the resistor is located in that circuit. The resistor is in the circuit when a “more dry/less dry” cycle is selected. The resistor is not in the circuit when a “timed dry” cycle is selected. Check the heating element for indications that heating element coils have come in contact with the heater housing. Contact (a short circuit to ground) can occur when an element sags from the heat or burns in two. The short can be intermittent when the element contacts the housing while hot, but then loses contact when the element cools. Scorch marks on the housing can be a telltale of the point of contact. If evidence of contact is found the heating element needs to be replaced. There are other possibilities for shorts to ground. I mentioned this one because it can be difficult to detect.

Alternatively, the burned resistor can be a result of failure of the resistor and not have any other cause. If no evidence of a circuit to ground can be found, this theory can be tested by replacing the resistor and running the dryer with a “more dry/less dry” cycle selected. If a short exists and you failed to find it, the new resistor will very shortly look just like the old one. You will know you need to keep looking for the short. You can call the nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store for free assistance in troubleshooting.

We recently fixed our Kenmore dryer (it needed a new drum belt and motherboard). After reassembling the dryer, it no longer beeps incessantly, it stays running and the drum turns. However, at first it would not heat. I noticed that the settings dial seemed off: for example, the dial said it was set to 45 minutes timed dry, but the indicator lights made it appear to be set for 90 minutes (three positions off from where the dial was set). Sure enough, I rotated the dial, and for each setting, the indicator lights were three positions off. The dryer is now heating, and appears to be doing its job, but I wonder whether you have ever run into this problem before, where the dial setting appears to be off from the actual setting?

I have a Kenmore dryer model number 110.96582800 and it was heating fine then after a year it stopped heating up..I changed the heating element and it still does not heat..What do you suggest i do at this point?

Mark,
The high limit thermostat and the fuse located on the heating element housing should be checked for continuity along with the operating thermostat that is located on the blower housing. If you work your way through all the steps in the Repair Tips titled “Whirlpool Electric Dryer Turns But Will Not Heat” without finding the malfunction, call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free assistance.

Atleather,
You are describing two malfunctions. In this case, I would solve the heating problem first by working through the steps suggested in Newsletter above. Make the repair to restore the heat and then monitor the dryer closely to make certain it stops when it is supposed to. The long drying cycles can be caused by selecting a “more dry – less dry” cycle (that is sensing the dryness of the clothes) when you have no heat present to dry the clothes. If you have any questions as you are working call your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store for free assistance.

My whirpool dryer turns, breaker is fine, tested all dryer parts, even use compressed air to blow out motor. Vents are perfectly clear. But when i check the air blowing out its only.ht sometimes, and when i keep the door open and run it i feel no air flow at all in the drum. Help? We tested all remoavable parts. All thermosats, the heating element,the blower. The only thing not checked was the timer switch necause we culdnt get it apart.

Blue,
Your symptoms appear to be: your dryer is turning but heating intermittently. If the dryer has insufficient air flow, the element will short cycle (staying on short periods of time). Since you have cleaned all your duct work you may want to check you blower wheel. The blower wheel is mounted on the motor shaft inside the blower housing. Remove enough of the blower housing to expose the blower wheel. Hold the motor shaft and check the blower wheel for movement. There should be no “play” between the motor shaft and the blower wheel. They should move together. It is common for the blower wheel to become worn enough to allow the motor shaft to turn inside the wheel causing the blower to turn at a slower RPM than is required. If you have questions on this procedure call your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts Store for free assistance.

I have a mystery for you. I purchased a brand new electric dryer (WED4800BQ) and wired up a 3-prong dryer cord for my 3-prong outlet. I pushed “start” and nothing happens except I can hear the timer running. I tested voltage at back of the dryer and got 120 (left/center), 120 (right/center), and 240 (left/right). I tested the outlet itself (same results). I also tested the 30-Amp circuit breaker at the panel (same results). So voltage is good everywhere from breaker panel to back of dryer. I got a replacement dryer thinking it must be a dryer issue. The guys replaced it last night (I let the technician hook it up this time) and got the exact same results (no drum turning, no heat, just timer runs). Thoughts? Update: The guys at L***’s told me they plugged in the dryer I returned and it worked for them!

Ezra,
Your are right. You have a mystery. The symptoms are pointing toward a problem with the power, but your voltage readings are telling us everything should be O.K. Call us at the nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts Store and ask for Ernie. This is the sort of mystery is very good at solving.

You were sooo right…. I read one of your comments to someone else….My whirlpool dryer stop heating… I checked the breakers and they were ok…I then checked the heating element and the coils were rusted and one was broken… Thanks!!!

My whirlpool duet dryer turns, but isn’t heating. I checked the breaker and its fine. The dryer vent is clear of lint. I then tested the heating system with a multimeter. The heating element and the thermistor are both shorted out need replaced. I also noticed that the light inside the dryer is out. Before I go and change all three, I wanted to see if there is any way they are related (there is another issue that caused these three to go out)? Would you recommend changing all three and seeing what happens or do I need to look at the control panel or something else?

KB,
It is always wise to move cautiously when it appears you have multiple malfunctions. However, taking them one at a time. The heating element is bad if there is not circuit (continuity) through it and it is bad if your testing shows the element is “shorted” (has a circuit) to ground. Heating elements are common items to fail so no big surprise here. The thermistor is bad if there is no circuit through it at room temperature. The thermistors resistance varies with temperature. I suspect that your thermistor is probably good. If it was my dryer, I would replace the element and the light bulb and monitor the next couple of cycles to make certain the dryer functions correctly. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store for assistance if you have more questions.

I have a Whirlpool model number WED5100SQ0, I followed all recommended instructions. I have 220V coming in, checked the thermal, checked thermostat, and all the heating element for continuity and cracks in the springs. Hooked everything back and tried running it, will not work on regular setting , but will work on “LESS DRY” setting; even felt the heating element turn on. What can be the problem, or what else should I check? Thank you.

V,
It appears you have checked the common items to fail. The next step in troubleshooting requires that you locate a wiring diagram for your dryer. Oftentimes there is one located on the dryer or inside the control panel. The wiring diagram can guide you through the dryer system item by item to find the problem. Once you locate the diagram call your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store if you need help with the process or, you can take your wiring diagram (or a picture of your diagram) to U-FIX-IT and we will be glad to show you (at no charge) how to do the next step.

Thanks for this great post. I googled the problem and found your site and your step-by-step process got us to the broken coil issue. Couldn’t have done it without your easy-to-understand walk-through. Thanks again for helping us with the detective work!

Hi! I recently noticed that our dryer sometimes will not produce heat (or enough heat). After the cycle stops (~60 min), the clothes will still feel very damp and sometimes not even warm at all. Other times it works fine. Timer, tumbling, all work. Suggestions on what could be wrong? Thanks!

Intermittent malfunctions can be the most difficult to identify. Troubleshoot the dryer at the time it is is not heating. I recommend measuring the voltage at the element for 220 volts (while the dryer is running) as a starting point. If 220 volts is present (between the two terminals of element), there is a problem with the element. Zero voltage between the terminals indicates the problem is elsewhere in the circuit. A wiring diagram is often available on or within the dryer. Using the wiring diagram as your guide, measure voltage across each component in the circuit on at a time (while the dryer is running). A voltage reading of 220 volts indicates that component (part) has stopped the flow of electricity in the circuit. Caution must be used at all times when measuring voltage while the dryer is running. 110 volts is likely present in the circuits even though the volt meter indicates zero. Assume all bare wires and connections are hot. Do not touch with bare hands or short to ground. Call or visit the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free assistance in diagnosing your problem.

I just had a repairman come and tell me the issue with my dryer is that its running on 110 and not 220. The circuit breaker seems to be fine as nothing is popping. As written above the dryer is turning but not getting hot. My question is would this suddenly be an issue after living here for 6 years and having this dryer for 3 years? Or is it possible something else was missed.

Gil,
An electric dryer will turn but cannot heat if there is only one leg of the the 220 volts present. 220 volt circuits are made up of a positive leg of 110 volts and a negative leg of 110 volts. The motor requires only 110 volts to run, but the heating element cannot produce any heat unless both legs are present. It is common enough for power to be the problem that most technicians will start their appliance trouble-shooting with checking to make certain they have proper power when an electrical problem is suspected. Your problem may be as simple as a bad circuit breaker or as complicated as a broken wire hidden in the wall.

I have a whirlpool electric dryer that stopped providing enough heat to dry a load in one cycle. It sometimes takes 2 or3 cycles to dry now. Usually its clearing the exhaust vents through the piping out through top of roof. But I noticed upon disassembling from base of exhaust on dryer it was wet. As I looked further into the exhaust and reached my hand inside to clear some of lent there was a puddle of water inside dryer exhaust hole. What is going on and what do u recc?

Nick,
Symptom – Whirlpool dryer has water dripping from duct inside the dryer. Your dryer is most likely condensing the water due to a restriction in the air flow. Dryers are not designed to push the exhaust air vertically through the roof which means if your duct is absolutely clean, the air flow will be less than dryer was designed for. Over time lint will settle out of the exhaust air and deposit on the duct walls further restricting and further slowing the air flow. You have probably cured your condensing problem by cleaning the duct. The problem will probably return as exhaust duct accumulates lent again. Booster air pumps are available that sit behind the dryer to boost the air flow whenever the dryer is running. The pump decreases the drying time and it blows more of the lint outside so the duct does not have to be cleaned as often. There are malfunctions inside the dryer than can slow air flow, but your description points towards this explanation. Let me know if you have any additional symptoms or call your nearest U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store for free troubleshooting assistance over the phone.

I have an electric dryer, that at first worked perfectly fine, then it stopped getting hot, soon after the timer quit working. I only found this out because when it stopped heating I would put it on fluff dry (no heat) to dry our clothes with out the heat, but the timer stopped and the dryer just goes n goes n goes, if I don’t go in there and turn it off.

Whitley,
You may not have a timer problem. There a select few Whirlpool dryers that timers can run continuously when the heating element breaks and makes contact with the element housing. As unlikely as it sounds, the grounded element can provide a ground for the timer motor allowing it to run continuously. I always recommend repairing the most obvious malfunction (such as a broken element) first and then check for symptoms again. You may have two malfunctions, but you may not. Do your troubleshooting carefully. Call your nearest U-FIX-IT store for free assistance.

Hello! I was drying and all a suddenly it started smokin from the upper back and stop getting hot. The element was checked, fuses, breaker, vents cleaned and the wiring. It all is working fine. What could be the next issues? If it’s the timer.. Is it cheater to replace the timer or purchase a dryer? Also this is an Whirlpool dryer. Thanks

Kim,
The source of the smoke must be identified. Systematically disassemble the dryer until you discover the source. Scorch marks and/or smell will usually make a positive identification possible. Discovering the source of the smoke will point you toward the solution. Call tHE U-FIX-IT store nearest you for help if you have questions.

Hello Jim. I have an Estate by Whirlpool dryer and it only heats up on timed dry, sometimes. Usually you have to spin the knob several times and pray to the dryer gods. It turns just fine, just doesn’t dry. Any advice would be great.

I started smelling my dryer I thought it was on fire. After a few min it started again. It was turning but it stopped drying. I checked the breaker reset it, replaced the element but still no heat? Wat can I do to find the problem?

Jim,
Most Whirlpool dryers have a fuse and a thermostat located on the heater housing. Check them for continuity or take them to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing. Look for a wiring diagram in or on your dryer. The diagram makes it easier to work systematically through the circuit if both of these items test good. Be careful to identify the source of the burning smell before allowing the dryer to operate unattended.

I have a whirlpool dryer my little sister was drying a blanket not too big but within two minutes of taking it out my kitchen was filled with smoked and it smelled like burning rubber she did say that she moved the timer up instead of resetting it around but invading know it that did anything

Eric,
It is unlikely the smoke and smell were caused by advancing the timer while it was running. I recommend that you disassemble the dryer and smell the different components until you identify the source. Possible sources are: the belt slipping on the drive pulley, the motor, or lint catching fire. Not a good idea to run the dryer unattended until you know for certain what caused the smoke and smell.

I have a speed queen dryer model number Les33WA. i have checked for power. i have power all the way to the element, but it wont heat. i looked at the element for breaks, found none. i checked it with my meter for ohms. was good. what else could i check

Richard,
Using a wiring diagram is the best way to methodically test your way through your Speed Queen dryer heating circuit. It can be done by tracing the wires, but that is the hard way. Your heating circuit includes the element, a high limit thermostat(mounted on element), a fuse(mounted on element), and operating thermostat(mounted on the blower housing), and a centrifugal switch(mounted on the motor).

Tracing power on a 220 volt circuit on your Speed Queen dryer can be tricky. The key thing to remember is that a reading of 220 volts will show you the bad part when one test lead is placed on the power terminal going in and the other test lead is placed on the power terminal going out of a part(while the dryer is running). A reading of zero across the terminals will indicate a good part(while the dryer is running). It is impossible to troubleshoot with voltage readings keeping one test lead on ground because the meter will not alert you when you are on the positive leg of 110 volts or the negative leg of 110 volts. As always, be careful to avoid touching bare wires and terminals with the power connected. Be careful, as well, not to inadvertently short power circuits to ground with test leads.

It is easier to do continuity checks on each individual dryer part because the power can be disconnected and reading the meter is simpler. Disconnect one wire going into the part, place a test lead on each terminal. The part is good if the reading on the meter is the same or close to the reading you see when you touch the test leads together. Otherwise the part is bad. The continuity check is not an option for testing the centrifugal switch since the motor must be running before the switch will close.

Bring your wiring diagram to the nearest U-FIX-IT store or call for free help in troubleshooting your circuit. Bring your old part into the store for free confirmation that it is bad.

Mr. PachecoClick this link and then select either “Dryer(electric) turns but will not heat” or “Dryer(gas) turns but will not heat. This link gives more detailed steps for Whirlpool electric dryers. Call the nearest U-FIX-IT store if you need more information.

Tia,
There is no quick answer to you symptoms. More
information is needed. Are you selecting a “timed dry” cycle or “more dry-less dry” cycle? If “timed dry” is the selection, there may be two malfunctions? If “more dry-less dry” is the selection, the problem is most likely in the heater circuit. In either case you may want to call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you with your model number and we will help you through the troubleshooting process.

I have a Maytag Mod# MET3800tW1 over/under. Over the past year or more three of the four setting on the timer have stopped working (no heat or tumbling) but the last setting (high heat sensor drying, I think) worked fine. I did not know we only had one setting working until yesterday, when my wife informed me the last setting was tumbling, but not heating. I have tested all the things I know how to test, is it possible the timer has gone bad?

Kirk,
The short answer is yes, it could be the timer. You can prove it by removing the timer and carefully taking it apart. There will be burned contacts inside the timer if it is bad. If you have a wiring diagram and a volt meter, the voltage can be traced going into the timer and coming out(or not coming out). Alternatively, you can take your wiring diagram to the nearest U-FIX-IT store for help in troubleshooting.

Tscharna,
You have eliminated the common causes of your symptoms. It is time to adopt a methodical process of elimination. If you have a wiring diagram for your dryer we can show you how to diagnosis your exact problem using a voltmeter (as low as $15.00). Just bring your wiring diagram (or a photo of your wiring diagram) to your nearest U-FIX-IT store. One item that you did not mention that needs to be tested is the centrifugal switch on the motor. The wiring diagram is needed to identify the wires attached to the centrifugal switch. Please call if you would like additional information.

Sounds like it it is time to call an electrician since you have 220 volts at the breaker but not at the outlet. An electric dryer will not heat when there is only 110 volts present at the outlet. The dryer motor will run since it only needs 110 volts, but the dryer heating element requires 220 volts to generate heat.

I have a model LEQ9030PQ1. The dryer has stopped heating completely, and the timer will not work. Yesterday I turned on the dryer and it stayed on for 8 hours. Will the breaker or heating element cause the timer to malfunction as well?

Steve,
It is unlikely that a heater or breaker problem will damage the timer. An 8 hour run time might occur if the timer is set on a “more dry-less dry” cycle and there is no heat to dry the clothes. In this case the timer is operating correctly since it is paused until the dryness sensor is satisfied. I always recommend fixing the obvious problem (no heat in this case) first before looking for the less obvious ones. If the timer is not advancing when set on a “timed dry” cycle then the timer is probably bad. Call a U-FIX-IT store near you for clarification if needed.

Hi í have a whirlpool dryer model# WED4800XQ0 it does not heat and í dont think the timer is working becouse it just stays at Timed dry at 70 and it will stay like that for hours untill í stop the dryer please can you help me here its so hard when you got boys haha

I am having a problem with my Amana electrical dryer. It will only run on heat time dry and no other setting. It will not heat up either. I have checked all the thermal parts and the heating coils aren’t heating up but there is no break in it.

I have a Whirlpool dryer GEQ8858HQ0 that does not heat up.
I replaced everything suggested – Heating Element, Thermal Fuse, High Limit Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, and even cleaned out the dryer and vents but it still won’t dry. The Timer works and everything else seems to be running fine, just no heat.
I’m perplexed.
Any ideas?

Jon,
If you have a wiring diagram for your dryer we can show you how to diagnosis your exact problem using a voltmeter (as low as $15.00). Just bring your wiring diagram (or a photo of your wiring diagram) to your nearest U-FIX-IT store. One item that you did not mention that needs to be tested is the centrifugal switch on the motor. The wiring diagram is needed to identify the wires attached to the centrifugal switch. Please call if you would like additional information.

It is possible (but not likely)the timer could be bad. A bad timer can be proven with a continuity check between the appropriate terminals on the timer (consult your wiring diagram & unplug dryer & unplug dryer terminals). An alternate way to check – Test for voltage drop between those same two terminals with power on.

Since air flow is O.K., We must look for the cause of the “short cycle” of the heating element.

First, I recommend a visual inspection of the heating element. Although it is relatively rare, heating elements can distort and come in contact with the housing causing an overheat condition which is then remedied by the high temperature safety (thermostat). If the heating element looks normal and there is no evidence of the element touching the case then go to the second step.

Second, identify the component in the circuit that is causing the short cycle. The most reliable method is to take voltage readings across each component (one at a time) in the circuit while the element “short cycles.” The voltage will read 220 volts when the malfunctioning component cuts the power to the element and zero volts when the element lights up again. Insulated clips on your voltmeter probes can make the testing procedure much easier. Call if you have any questions. Obviously, great care must be taken not to touch any exposed electrical connections while the dryer has power connected.

Third, if you are not comfortable with the second step above, an alternative is to replace each component in the circuit (one at a time) until the “short cycle” is corrected. The place to start would be the safeties on the element housing. You may replace some good parts before you find the malfunction, but you will find it eventually.

I have whirlpool duet dryer. I have replaced the thermal cut off, thermostat and thermistor. The dryer heats for a short time then the thermal cut off blows. I have replaced this part three times. Each time the dryer works for a couple of loads then the thermal cut off dies.

The thermal fuse protects against the dryer overheating. This can be caused by an airflow restriction. I recommend starting your check at the vent outside the house and then working your way back toward the dryer. Give us a call with your model number and we will be glad to step you through the process for your exact dryer.

I had a dryer and it was working but not heating up so I purchased another dryer and it is doing the same thing running but not getting hot . Is this an electrical problem and what can I do to fix it ?

Yes, the problem is probably external to your dryer since it is unlikely that two dryers will malfunction identically.

If it is an electric dryer, test to make certain you have 220 volts (electric power) at the dryer. If you are uncertain how to do this, call one of our stores and we will be happy to explain how at no charge. Electric dryers can still run if they have 110 volts available, but they will not heat.

If it is a gas dryer, look toward the gas supply and/or the the exhaust vent. Again, if you are uncertain how to proceed, give us a call.

I have a dryer plugged into an outlet and it will only spin and not heat. The outlet will work for a stove and the stove works fine. I picked this dryer up used and it worked fine when I obtained it. What coukd be the problem??

Hello I have a whirlpool dryer that worked fine, then it started struggling to turn the drum while loaded and would start unloaded. Don’t know if the dryer needs a new motor or it’s a circuit issue. Since it works fine off and on I’m holding back on changing the motor out until it gives out and then for sure know that that’s the issue, just wondering if this is a common problem too or would it be best to get a new one. Part number 8066206

It is unlikely that your motor is going bad. Your symptoms point to bad tub bearings. Bad tub bearings make it more difficult for the motor to run which causes the motor to run hot. The motor is protected by an internal overload that cuts power to the motor when it is working too hard. A visual inspection of the drum bearings will show if they are bad, or you can bring the bearings to U-FIX-IT and we will inspect them with you. There is a video on the U-FIX-IT website (click on the dryer Parts tab and DIY videos) that will show you how to open the cabinet. There are couple more things that can make the drum more difficult to turn, but the bearings are the most common repair. Call U-FIX-IT if you have any questions.