Food businesses often launch from a single killer dish. For Susan Lustenberger of Novato's White Rose Ranch, that dish was her Aunt Dee's rum cake. Lustenberger, who moved to Novato a few years ago, immediately built a reputation for her "must have" desserts — decadent rum cake, brownies, Kahlúa chocolate trifle and tiramisu among others — by selling them to restaurants in town. Using her sweet success as a springboard, Lustenberger opened a catering company built around family recipes such as the rum cake.

Mere months later, she entered Novato's Chamber of Commerce 2011 Top Chef Marin contest and took home top prize with a "must-have" tomato pie and a side of blue cheese biscuits.

Business skyrocketed and, when a small storefront in downtown Novato became available in November, White Rose Ranch became a reality. The inspiration for the name? "I just always loved bushy white roses," says Lustenberger, who was raised on an Arizona ranch.

The tiny shop is an extension of the catering business. Though you can stop in for a last-minute meal — Lustenberger prepares extra servings of the day's menu as well as the tomato pie, white enchiladas and Cola Cola tacos — and there are always a few sweets for sale, the focus is on take-out. Order at least 24 hours in advance and your lunch or dinner will be packed and waiting when you arrive. That's right, there are no dining tables.

During the ride to your dining destination, the tantalizing perfume of warm tomatoes layered with whole leaf basil in the lofty tomato pie ($40 for eight to 10 servings) may entice you to sample this Arcadian treat before you even arrive. If the all-butter crust does not have you at hello, the dance of acidic tomato with homemade aioli and a sprinkle of green onion may result in a rash of happy sighs.

Lustenberger changes the menu weekly to take advantage of what is in season and what inspires her. Her menus lean toward homey Southern cooking though flashes of California cuisine can be spotted. Southern-fried chicken ($13) with a side of corn soufflé ($5) are right at home alongside a watermelon and feta salad ($6) and pasta with olives and goat cheese ($28, small).

Most entrées are designed to serve two to four (small) or four to six (large) as a main course. White enchiladas ($36, small), served with a blueberry/sweet pepper salad, were quite unlike any enchilada available in Northern California.

"My grandfather used to make Sonora-style enchiladas," Lustenberger said, "and he made the sauce white for the kids."

The béchamel sauce, without tomatoes, was sparked with cumin and green chilies and thickened with a touch of sour cream. The all-white meat chicken, baked in this luscious sauce, was ridiculously juicy and tender.

Cola cola tacos ($36, small), served with corn tortillas, green chile rice and chunky, cheesy refried beans, were a deep-hued amber. Braised for 12 hours with Mexican Coca Cola, chile de árbol, cayenne and a homemade tomato sauce, the beef shoulder (or brisket) was brimming with big beefy flavor hitched to a back-of-the-throat tingle from the chiles. Crusty bits, a result of the long sugar-enhanced simmer, were impossible to stop eating.

"The tacos are my Great Uncle Wendell's recipe," says Lustenberger.

Though Lustenberger has plenty of hearty recipes from her family, she looks for ideas in frayed cookbooks found at garage sales and flea markets. It is the history of the recipe, yes, but it's deeper than that; as Lustenberger says, "I love cooking for people, I love the relationships."

Although focusing on to-go food for now, her dream is to own a big barn with gardens where people can come, drink coffee, talk and, of course, linger and eat.

Christina Mueller writes about food — restaurants, chefs, products and trends — for local and national publications as well as other industry clients. Send her an email at ij@christinamueller.com.