I've made a list of jobs required to get the van sorted out - mostly checks and adjustments, and moved it to a more accessible place in the garage.

The fuel tank has yet to be fixed, although a friend has said he'll take a look at it - the pick-up inside is blocked and no amount of poking or blowing compressed air through it will un-block it.

The paintwork is being gently cut-back at present. Rather than T-Cut it, I just buffed it up with some Mer polish, to cut back some of the dead layer of paint, then went over it with Johnson's Auto Wax (circa 1952). It brings up some shine, without going all-out for maximum gloss

Yesterday evening I hunted out a set of replacement (non-sealed beam) Lucas headlamps to replace the crusty ones fitted. The corroded rims came up a treat thanks to one of those wire wool/soapy scrubber things, done in the kitchen sink naturally. The home-made "eyelids" have been left off, I don't like them and these examples looked decidedly iffy

Once the paintwork's been bulled up, the plan is to then check the brake cylinders, hopefully they'll take a seal kit rather than need replacing entirely.

It will definitely need a new exhaust though - is a saloon system the same as that on the van?

It'll also need some new tyres, if I can find some suitable crossplies I'll get a set of them (although radials do hang on better).

This evening I made a start on the brakes, and dismantled the o/s/f. It came apart surprisingly easily, that was until I tried to get the pistons out of the cylinders while held in the vice. They seem well jammed in, so it probably doesn't bode well for the state of the cylinder bores.

The shoes and linings look aok (although I think I've some new ones somewhere) and the drums don't need a skim, which is a bonus. I might bite the bullet and buy some new/refurb'd wheel cylinders, although they'll not cost the same as those I put on Compo recently (£25 the set!!!).

This evening I made a start on the brakes, and dismantled the o/s/f. It came apart surprisingly easily, that was until I tried to get the pistons out of the cylinders while held in the vice. They seem well jammed in, so it probably doesn't bode well for the state of the cylinder bores.

The shoes and linings look aok (although I think I've some new ones somewhere) and the drums don't need a skim, which is a bonus. I might bite the bullet and buy some new/refurb'd wheel cylinders, although they'll not cost the same as those I put on Compo recently (£25 the set!!!).

RJ

Rick, be careful getting the seized pistons out. If any of the teeth on the adjuster wheels get broken they won't be accepted as exchange. The first thing most people do is put a pair of molegrips on the adjuster wheel with predictable results. The best method I've found of releasing them is to screw a grease nipple into the hole where the brake pipe goes in, then attach a grease gun, pump and...POP!

Obviously all traces of grease will have to be cleaned out afterwards if the bores are good enough to re-rubber, but the chances are you will get leaks in the future with old cylinders, so the best thing might be to buy new ones. Bull Motif Spares (www.bullmotif.com) sell them, as do the owners club if you are a member._________________1935 Standard Twelve
1953 Austin A40 Somerset
1958 Austin A55 Cambridge
1959 Austin A35
1980 Vauxhall Royale 2.8 auto
1987 Austin Maestro 1.3 L

This evening I made a start on the brakes, and dismantled the o/s/f. It came apart surprisingly easily, that was until I tried to get the pistons out of the cylinders while held in the vice. They seem well jammed in, so it probably doesn't bode well for the state of the cylinder bores.

The shoes and linings look aok (although I think I've some new ones somewhere) and the drums don't need a skim, which is a bonus. I might bite the bullet and buy some new/refurb'd wheel cylinders, although they'll not cost the same as those I put on Compo recently (£25 the set!!!).

RJ

Rick, be careful getting the seized pistons out. If any of the teeth on the adjuster wheels get broken they won't be accepted as exchange. The first thing most people do is put a pair of molegrips on the adjuster wheel with predictable results. The best method I've found of releasing them is to screw a grease nipple into the hole where the brake pipe goes in, then attach a grease gun, pump and...POP!

Obviously all traces of grease will have to be cleaned out afterwards if the bores are good enough to re-rubber, but the chances are you will get leaks in the future with old cylinders, so the best thing might be to buy new ones. Bull Motif Spares (www.bullmotif.com) sell them, as do the owners club if you are a member.

I'll give the grease gun idea a try, thanks for the reminder about that trick there's nothing to lose by taking them apart to inspect the innards I suppose, but like you say they often leak again later if only the seals are done.

The A35 went to a new home today a friend of mine who helped me collect it, asked for first refusal, so to him it went. I've not much free time, and it was proving to be a distraction from getting on with the 32 Minor, so reluctantly I offered it to him, and I'll carry on running Compo the Companion.

Today was the first time I'd seen it outside since bulling up the paintwork flags are at half mast this evening...