Also, you ought to be able to get whatever you need from Lowes, Home Depot, etc. for maybe $10. Really no problem, just take in the assembly instructions with the pictures of the components, they'd probably get you set up in 15 minutes. I wouldn't throw such a good deal back in their faces on that account alone. So long as the surface is in good condition (if not, that's a deal-breaker), I'd say you've got a very nice product that's salvageable. Even bent framework, so long as not kinked, can be repaired with a little ingenuity.

At this point, returning it would be a bigger loss--I probably would have to pay half the shipping, which comes to a little more than $50. I'm going to finish the table tonight hopefully. Thanks for your help!

Also, I absolutely see no point in the frame attached to the edge of the table. For the high-end tables, this frame usually serves to stabilize the top. But in this case, it seems like the flimsiest part of the table, and frankly, it seems to be there more for looks than anything. Do you think there's any harm if I just unscrew the whole thing off? The table is pretty heavy, and the frame just makes it harder to lift up.

Sorry getting back to you late, been away from computer for a few days. Nope, can't imagine any problem with not attaching that flimsy little apron. Earlier in this thread that's the only thing I was knocking with the AMF Platinum/Sportcraft Marquis table (the next step down from your 5000/Fury), the apron that's mainly just there to look good in the product photos and mimic a real sqaure tubing apron, but not a real apron likely to prevent warpage at all. I'd just go ahead and put it together without. The 1" surface is substantial enough it ought to be fine as is and I doubt too likely to warp to any significant degree. If you ever want, you could probably screw some 2" x 1" wood to the bottom, or better yet, some square metal tubing if you can get your hands on it cheaply or free. Judging by the way the Fury seems to be built, i.e., like a tank, if you ever got a proper apron screwed on there you'd essentially have the rough equivalent of a $1,000 table for a fourth the price. I'd say you got a great deal in that table.

I finally finished putting it together last Thursday night (it's heavy!) and had a few hits on it using a robot. It definitely seems promising, with a decent bounce. The legs are extremely stable, and overall the table looks great (although bulky). The net that came with the table isn't terrible, but I might replace it with a better one soon. Maybe one of those Joola nets with the clip...

One important observation to note: the surface of the table. It isn't like most high-end tables produced by the big brands (Butterfly, Stiga, etc.), which have some kind of a glossy layer to the surface. I think Butterfly calls that the "Anti Skid" spray. Instead, the surface of the AMF Fury feels a little bit grainy and sticky. Dirt and dust also collects pretty easily and it's not easy to wipe it off. If you gently rub your hand across the table, you'll know what I mean. On the tables with the anti-skid coating, rubbing your hand across will feel smooth. On the tables without the glossy layer like the Fury, rubbing your hand across will feel rough and gritty.

I also believe that the bounce on the AMF Fury is lower than most 1'' tables that I've tried, which is most likely a result from the lack of a glossy layer on the table surface. I believe the surface contributes to the overall bounce of the ball. The AMF Fury is not as springy as most 1'' tables I've played with, such as the Butterfly Centerfold, Joola 3000 SC, and Killerspin RAD (which are the brands' top-end tables). In the BTY/Joola/KS tables, the ball bounces higher but the bounce also feels "artificial." With the Fury, you can feel the ball bouncing on actual wood. As a result, without the glossy layer to redirect the energy of the ball into its bounce, more energy is absorbed into the top and the overall bounce is slightly lower.

However, a $250 table that has a bounce close to the $1500+ tables is an amazing deal. It is a major upgrade from my old table, which was 1/2'' thick. The overall stability of the table's frame and legs make it a good bargain. But like I posted before: be aware that Sportcraft is out of business and will be unable to help you if anything happens! Also, you do have to put in some handywork to assemble the table, which includes some heavy lifting!

patient.bird pretty much hit everything in his review on the top of page 3. And the pictures he posted are a pretty accurate representation of what my table looks like. (I have a few pictures of my own, if anyone wants to see them though).

Sorry getting back to you late, been away from computer for a few days. Nope, can't imagine any problem with not attaching that flimsy little apron. Earlier in this thread that's the only thing I was knocking with the AMF Platinum/Sportcraft Marquis table (the next step down from your 5000/Fury), the apron that's mainly just there to look good in the product photos and mimic a real sqaure tubing apron, but not a real apron likely to prevent warpage at all. I'd just go ahead and put it together without. The 1" surface is substantial enough it ought to be fine as is and I doubt too likely to warp to any significant degree. If you ever want, you could probably screw some 2" x 1" wood to the bottom, or better yet, some square metal tubing if you can get your hands on it cheaply or free. Judging by the way the Fury seems to be built, i.e., like a tank, if you ever got a proper apron screwed on there you'd essentially have the rough equivalent of a $1,000 table for a fourth the price. I'd say you got a great deal in that table.

Thanks for the suggestions! I decided to just leave them on for now, since they don't really bother me that much. I figure that at the worst, they will still be protection for the sides and edges of the table, even if they don't do much to support the table from warping.

I finally finished putting it together last Thursday night (it's heavy!) and had a few hits on it using a robot. It definitely seems promising, with a decent bounce. The legs are extremely stable, and overall the table looks great (although bulky). The net that came with the table isn't terrible, but I might replace it with a better one soon. Maybe one of those Joola nets with the clip...

One important observation to note: the surface of the table. It isn't like most high-end tables produced by the big brands (Butterfly, Stiga, etc.), which have some kind of a glossy layer to the surface. I think Butterfly calls that the "Anti Skid" spray. Instead, the surface of the AMF Fury feels a little bit grainy and sticky. Dirt and dust also collects pretty easily and it's not easy to wipe it off. If you gently rub your hand across the table, you'll know what I mean. On the tables with the anti-skid coating, rubbing your hand across will feel smooth. On the tables without the glossy layer like the Fury, rubbing your hand across will feel rough and gritty.

I also believe that the bounce on the AMF Fury is lower than most 1'' tables that I've tried, which is most likely a result from the lack of a glossy layer on the table surface. I believe the surface contributes to the overall bounce of the ball. The AMF Fury is not as springy as most 1'' tables I've played with, such as the Butterfly Centerfold, Joola 3000 SC, and Killerspin RAD (which are the brands' top-end tables). In the BTY/Joola/KS tables, the ball bounces higher but the bounce also feels "artificial." With the Fury, you can feel the ball bouncing on actual wood. As a result, without the glossy layer to redirect the energy of the ball into its bounce, more energy is absorbed into the top and the overall bounce is slightly lower.

However, a $250 table that has a bounce close to the $1500+ tables is an amazing deal. It is a major upgrade from my old table, which was 1/2'' thick. The overall stability of the table's frame and legs make it a good bargain. But like I posted before: be aware that Sportcraft is out of business and will be unable to help you if anything happens! Also, you do have to put in some handywork to assemble the table, which includes some heavy lifting!

patient.bird pretty much hit everything in his review on the top of page 3. And the pictures he posted are a pretty accurate representation of what my table looks like. (I have a few pictures of my own, if anyone wants to see them though).

The bounce and the grainy surface is what I noticed about the Platinum we got for my church (which has the same exact top and surface as yours, just a slightly less substantial framework). It's just a little bit off, not quite right compared to a true high-end table, but yet on the other hand really not bad, the difference seeming to disappear about three points into a match. So while at first I was a bit dubious, now my game easily adjusts to the slight difference and the table seems like it would be fine for anything short of tournament play at high levels (which I frankly am years from reaching anyway). The net set supplied with mine was garbage, but you can get some very nice net sets cheaply--I got a Killerspin Aurora for about $40--but here's a resource for an even better deal on a set that looks to be the same as the highest end sets from Joola, Killerspin, Stiga, etc: http://www.amazon.com/DHS-Table-Tennis-P104-Ping/dp/B002MO89TG?tag=155-3-1-20

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hi, I like this table. I need more info about the Li-Ning store in Portland an phone #, contact person if possible.

Here is my review from the Walmart website of the Walmart ESPN table with 25mm top. The current website price is $239, but the price seems to bounce around. I have seen the table priced as high as $298 and as low as $239.

Mine is the first review for this table. I am going to go into some detail because I rely heavily on reviews for my purchases and I want to give something back to the purchasing community. I was afraid to purchase without any reviews posted based on some of the horror stories that I read while reading reviews for other table tennis tables. However, the specifications of the table for the $240 price that I paid pushed me to take the risk and I am glad that I purchased. I used site-to-store and picked up the table a few days ago. The box was in good shape with no signs of having been crushed or abused -- not bad since the table came from China. At 250 pounds, this is a heavy package, but no problem to slide into the back of my pick-up with the help of two Walmart staffers. Upon opening the box, I was pleased to see the quality of the packing and I found no loose items floating around the box. The table halves were well protected and all of the other parts were packed in individual boxes within the main box. I laid out all of the parts and everything was in place and well labeled with little numbered stickers that coordinated with the instruction booklet. I built the table from the ground up by assembling the entire frame first. Then I attached all of the brackets, table apron, handles, etc. to the underside of each table half. Them my wife, myself and our two kids sat each of the table halves on top of the completed frame. Once each table half was safely supported, I had to crawl underneath to nudge a few things into alignment, but no major muscle was required. We then bolted the table halves to the frame and we were in business. The instruction booklet advised to lay the table halves upside down and essentially build the entire table upside down. You then need to tip the table up on its side, fold the table into the upright position, then lift and spin the table to its upright position without letting the the support structure touch the floor until the table is in position to be sat down on all four casters. I opted for my approach because I knew my wife and young kids and I did not have the man power to execute the mid-air table spin with a 200+ pound table. Overall I would give the instructions about 4 out of 5 stars. A few things could have been more clear, but no major frustrations or problems. I was working by myself and probably spent about three or four hours on the project before I called the family down to help place the table halves onto the frame. I could probably assemble another table now in about half that time, but I like to take my time so I don't have any blunders. Having the right tools is always a help. I used a ratchet and t-handle allen wrench on the frame assembly, which involved about 50 nut and bolt sets. For the many attachments to the underside of the table I used a cordless drill set to the proper low torque setting. You will need to drive about 100 wood screws, so doing this assembly by hand will develop Popeye forearms. Almost all of the parts fit together very cleanly. Nothing felt forced or incorrectly sized. For the plastic corner caps, a few of the screw hole locations were not proper, so I just drove the screws in the proper location instead. A few of the apron screw holes were also a bit off. Again, I just drove the screws in locations that best aligned the apron to the table edge. All of the other pre-drill locations on the table undersides were good. The table itself was very impressive once fully assembled. The top halves lined up perfectly with a nice even gap between the two halves. The 1" thick table tops are a deep blue color (almost looks black in low light) and are very true. The lines are smooth to the surface; you can't locate the center line while running fingers over the table with eyes closed. The table edges are all very crisp. I found one small deformity but that is fortunately located one a side and about one foot away from the net -- so not in play. I believe the tops are MDF wood on the inside with some sort of laminate coating over the MDF. At least that is why I was seeing as I drove the wood screws into the underside of the table. The table apron will pleasantly strong with a 1/2" lip on top to fasten to the table underside and a u-channel bend at the bottom for structural strength. The frame is very sturdy with chunky square metal tubing legs. The hinges and all of the rest of the frame tubing are well painted and more than strong enough to support the table well. The casters feel of good quality, roll nicely and lock as they should. The leg levelers are decent quality also and were helpful in my garage location to achieve a perfectly level playing surface. I can't comment too much on "bounce" quality or other higher-level playing characteristics. I am an above average recreation player but not a tournament player. I feel like the table plays great based on my expectations. I have owned a bottom-end table in the past and this table is superior in every way to my prior 5/8" particle top with flimsy legs at the corners with angle hinges also at the corners. That table had plastic casters that would barely support a tv dinner table. My buddies and I had some epic duels on that table. Now my son and I will be going at it on this table. This table also comes with a cover that is much better than I expected. This is no cheap, low-mil sack of plastic, but instead a heavy, canvas-like cover that should last a good long time. I cover like this probably costs about $40 to $60 as a stand alone item. The net has what I believe to be aluminum brackets that screw clamp onto the table top. Tautness is achieved by getting the correct separation between the net brackets and the net has no fancy string tightening system. This seems fine for now. The net is perhaps one item that I would consider upgrading once the included net wears out. I obviously can't speak to the durability of this table since it has been set up only a few days. I have yet to spot anything that I expect to be replacing based on cheap initial appearance. I have read of problems with some of these laminated table tops, with lamination separating from the wood underneath. Time will have to tell on that score with this table. If you are planning on keeping your table for years, I would definitely recommend spending and extra $100 dollars to get this table for $240 vs. the cheapy tables that are out there for $150 and less. If you just want to get going in the sport and see if your kids like the game, then this table will be more weight and expense than you need. Buy the $79 Walmart Black Friday table and consider it disposable in a few years. This table is also likely not good enough for the serious tournament player, but it is perfect for what I wanted. I would label this as a great value, mid-market table. Two negatives: 1 - Opening (and closing) both table halves for two person play takes two people. Each half needs to be lowered simultaneously; the two halves will collide if one half is fully lowered then the next half lowered. 2 - When a single half is lowered for solo practice, about a six inch gap is left between table halves, which is not as slick as some of the nicer tables that hinge differently or the two part tables that nest against one another. One person can easily roll the table around on its casters and lower (and raise) a single half of the table for solo practice. Overall, if this table lasts as I think it will I am very pleased with the purchase and can highly recommend the table for those that want to go a step above entry level flimsy tables with thin tops. For an extra $100 or so you are getting quite a bit of extra materials (1" top, heavy steel tubing, table cover) that appear to be of high quality.

Name and Brand, originDHS Regent Compact (Newgy branded for some reason)

http://dhsamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=34

Table surface (thickness, quality, other)3/4" MDF top, paint is blue with a slight tint towards purple, the two reasons my TT club sold it. Paint is perhaps just very slightly reflective more than a tournament table would be.

Frame (material, 2-piece or fold-up, sturdiness, roll-away or fixed, etc)Rollaway with a unified frame, folds up fairly small

Performance (playing performance compared to a competition table)Bounce seems similar to the Butterfly Europas I typically play on at the club, perhaps a bit less but hard to say. Consistent all over the table and the legs are easy to get a nice level with even on odd surface.

Durability (table surface, warping of main surface, etc)We carried this thing down some narrow basement stairs and banged it around a bit but no signs of damage whatsoever, seems crazy sturdy for how compact it is. Casters are very nice and have brakes. Top has extra protection on the corners. The white line paint has worn away in a place or two but I'm not sure what happened in the years the club owned this thing.

Value for money, recommend or not?

For the $450 I paid it is an amazing deal but even at the $1100 retail I think it punches above its weight. For that price I might want a 1" top but most of the tables that have that are in the $1400 range. As a competition for the Killerspin or mid-market Stiga/Joola/Butterfly tables I think this easily beats them.

Frame is very solid steel.
Each half can be put up, and rolled away as a seperate piece. Wheels are big and strong and have locking feature. I like the fact that you can easily separate this table in 2. Also, legs have height adjustment.

Performance (playing performance compared to a competition table)

Bounce is very good on this table and not getting any worse after 2.5 years of use.

Durability (table surface, warping of main surface, etc)

The table has spent time in very cold room for a couple cold winters and there is no signs of warping whatsoever. I think this table will be fine for a long, long time.

Value for money, recommend or not?

The cost of this table was around US$950 including shipping. I've got it from TTPioneers on sale. I do not think this table is a great value for the money. You should be able to get 3/4" tables for much cheaper and they will still be sufficient for the home use, no need to go all out the way I did.
Another thing - it took me and my friend about 4 hours to put the table together. Also, the table comes with the really good quality net.

Frame is thick steel with a thinner steel apron. Legs are 2 1/2 inch thick posts. It has lockable 4 inch caster wheels, like bigger versions of the ones on the bottom of shopping carts. Folds up and rolls for storage. It can be used in playback mode. I think the legs are adjustable, but I have never adjusted them. I just put washers under the legs.

Performance (playing performance compared to a competition table)

The bounce is close to that of a tournament table, and has not gotten worse after more than 4 years of use. It is slightly slower than the new BTY Europa 25 I regularly use at my club, and is as fast as the old one I used to use. It has a very good net. It is height adjustable and has a drawstring on the top to tighten it. Many cheap tables don't have a good net, so I was pleasantly surprised when I saw this.

Durability (table surface, warping of main surface, etc)

It has been in a closed garage with highly variable temperature for over 4 years without warping.

Value for money, recommend or not?

This table cost about $400. It is very much worth it. I don't know how much shipping costs because I picked it up from the store with a truck. The high quality surface and net make it hard to tell you are not playing on an official tournament table. One downside is the weight. It is extremely heavy. It was easy to assemble, but very hard to flip it over to use. You need at least 2 strong adults. I would recommend 4, just for extra stability and safety.

My wife surprised the kids with a STIGA Advantage Indoor Table Tennis Table from Amazon. It was $400 USD delivered. I was against it, and didn't think they would play, but they have been using it a lot. It claims to be 5/8" thickness. My calipers say it is 15.2mm. I know that 18mm is considered the least one should get, but my wife and I didn't know that then. It says 190 lbs shipping weight, and the two delivery guys had a hard time carrying it. I weighed it at 154 lbs without packaging. Joola 15mm tables are listed as 137 lbs on Megaspin, and not sure if they really are lighter or if they just didn't really weigh them. Quality seems satisfying to me.

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