Cyclades island-hopping: Santorini, Folegandros and Syros

Santorini guide - Part 1

Immortalised by 20th-century poet Odysseus Elytis as 'the
daughter of supreme wrath', Santorini is a crust of solidified
lava. The settlement of Akrotiri, a Bronze Age Pompeii, was
discovered just 30 years ago, though the site is now closed. But
you don't go to Santorini for sightseeing. You go to laze on your
terrace and gaze at the view.

WHERE TO STAY

1864 The Sea Captain's House & Spa From the
vaulted ceilings to the weathered wooden floors, everything at this
three-suite hideaway and spa is just so; you'll feel like a
pampered house guest. Debonair owners Tony Mosiman and Antonio
Totev also run a restaurant in Oia, Ambrosia & Nectar.
Oia(00 30 22860 71983; www.sea-captains-house.com). Doubles from
€201

Perivolas While newer hotels in Oia vie to
out-do each other in the bling stakes, Perivolas sticks with its
winning formula: pared-down interiors, show-stopping views and the
infinity pool that launched countless imitators. Oia (00 30
22860 71308; www.perivolas.gr). Doubles from €420

San Antonio In a crook in the caldera, this new
hotel has nothing around it for miles. The tunnelled lobby opens
onto a dramatic terrace. The best rooms are the four Master Suites
with private gardens. Oia/Imerovigli (00 30 22860 24388; www.sanantonio-santorini.com).
Doubles from €250

Grace Santorini Behind the typical
Cycladic exterior lies a contemporary, white-on-white interior. The
first nine rooms (which opened in 2008) proved so popular that
eight more were added last summer, shielded by volcanic black stone
walls. The gigantic new Grace Suite has its own spa. Imerovigli
(00 30 22860 21040;www.santorinigrace.com).
Doubles from €275