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HOLLY SPRINGS, Miss. - It's nearly noon on a broiling August day in North Mississippi. I'm trying hard to wake Paul McLeod by knocking on the door and ringing the large bell on his front porch.

My three traveling companions and I have stopped in the tiny town of Holly Springs on our way to Graceland, which is just up the road about an hour or so in Memphis, Tenn. Today is the 30th anniversary of Elvis Presley's death. Little do we know, we're about to encounter the world's most rabid Elvis fan.