WATCH: Danny Meyer Documentary, The Restaurateur, To Air Tonight On PBS

In 1998, a documentary crew followed Danny Meyer as he tried pulling off a feat deemed impossible in the restaurant world: opening two restaurants at the same time. These weren’t just any two restaurants, either — Meyer was opening Eleven Madison Park and Tabla, both highly ambitious upscale restaurants, both notorious for their perfectionism.

Fourteen years later,The Restaurateur will air on PBS, tonight at 10:30 PM. First, we’re amazed to see what Danny Meyer looked like with dark hair (such a mensch); second, given the subject matter and the eventual expansion of the Union Square Hospitality Group, we can see why his hair went gray. Let us never have to open two restaurants at once.