Captain Cook's Journal During the First Voyage Round the World by James Cook

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NOTE. As we advanced to the Southward into Cold weather, and a troubledSea, the Hogs we got at Ulietea began to die apace. They cannot endurethe least cold, nor will they hardly eat anything but vegetables, so thatthey are not at all to be depended upon at Sea. The fowls also have acomplaint general among them which affects their heads, so that theycontinue holding it down betwixt their Legs until they die; this at leastwas the fate of most of ours. This is necessary to be known to those whocome such Voyages as these, least they place too much dependance on thelive stock they get at the Islands.

Wednesday, 16th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy the first part; in the night,Squally, with rain; remainder, moderate and fair weather. At 8 am, sawthe Appearances of high land to the Eastward; bore up towards it, but at10 we discover'd it to be only Clouds, at which we hauld our wind to theSouthward. At Noon found the Ship by Observation 21 Miles to theNorthward of the Log, which may in some measure be owing to a South-Westswell we have had all the last 24 hours. Wind North by West, West, Westby South; course South 15 degrees East; distance 62 miles; latitude 25degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 19 minutes West.

Thursday, 17th. A Gentle breeze with some flying showers of rain. Had alarge Swell from the South-West all this day, much larger than yesterday,and this must be the reason why the observ'd Latitude differ'd from theLog again to day 16 miles. Wind West by South to South-West by South;course South-South-East; distance 76 miles; latitude 26 degrees 10minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 46 minutes West.

Saturday, 19th. Little wind with much rain in the night, the South-Westswell still Continues, from which I conclude that there is no land nearus in that Quarter. Wind North-West; course South-East by South; distance62 miles; latitude 27 degrees 40 minutes South; longitude 149 degrees 6minutes West.

Thursday, 24th. The first part light Airs and Calm; Middle, moderatebreezes and Cloudy; latter part very squally with rain. A.M. Variationper Azimuth 7 degrees 18 minutes East. At Noon took in the Topsails andgot down Topgallant yards. Saw a Water Spout in the North-West; it wasabout the breadth of a Rainbow, of a dark Colour, the Upper end of theCloud from whence it came was about 8 degrees above the Horizon. WindVariable; course South-South-East; distance 41 miles; latitude 32 degrees44 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 10 minutes West.

Friday, 25th. The first and middle part Strong Gales and Squally withrain, remainder moderate and Cloudy. P.M. Unbent the Maintopsail beingSplit and bent another; in the night lay too under the Foresail, and inthe morning made sail under the Courses and Topsails with one reef only.Had a large Sea from the Southward, saw several Albetrosses, PintadoBirds, and Sheer Waters; some of the Albetrosses were small, such as weusually saw off Cape Horn; all these kinds of birds are generally seen ata great distance from land. Wind, Southerly; course North-West; distance26 miles; latitude 32 degrees 26 minutes South; longitude 147 degrees 32minutes West.

Saturday, 26th. Moderate and cloudy weather, a Swell from the South-West.By observation of the Sun and Moon made this morning, the Longitude ofthe Ship at Noon is 147 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds, which differs but11 minutes from that given by the Log. Wind South-West; course South 6degrees East; South distance 13 miles; latitude 32 degrees 39 minutesSouth, longitude 147 degrees 30 minutes West.

Monday, 28th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with rain on the Latter part. At 10departed this Life Jno. Rearden,* (* John Reading.) Boatswain's Mate; hisDeath was occasioned by the Boatswain out of mere good Nature giving himpart of a Bottle of Rum last night, which it is supposed he drank all atonce. He was found to be very much in Liquor last night, but as this wasno more than what was common with him when he could get any, no farthernotice was taken of him than to put him to Bed, where this morning about8 o'clock he was found Speechless and past recovery. Wind Northerly;course South; distance 110 miles; latitude 35 degrees 34 minutes South,longitude 147 degrees 25 minutes West.

Wednesday, 30th. Fresh breeze and fair weather. At 1 a.m. saw the Comet alittle above the Horizon in the East. It pass'd the Meridian about 1/2past 4; the Tail of the Comet Subtended an Angle of 42 degrees. At 8 a.m.Variation per Azimuth 7 degrees 9 minutes East. Bent another suit ofSails. Saw a piece of Rock weed, Some Pintado birds and Sheer Waters anda Green bird something smaller than a Dove, but it was not near enough todistinguish whether it was a Sea or Land bird; it was only seen by onePerson, and he probably was Mistaken in the Colour. A Swell from theSouth-West, Wind Westerly; course South 3/4 East; distance 81 miles;latitude 38 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 6 minutesWest.

Thursday, 31st. The first part a fresh breeze and cloudy. At 6 p.m. hauldthe wind to the South-West and close reefd the Topsails. At 1 a.m. beingvery squally with rain, took in the Topsails and brought too under theMainsail. At 6 made Sail under the Courses. Saw some seaweed, sounded,but had no ground at 65 fathoms of Line. Some Albetrosses, Sheer Waters,and a great many Pintado Birds about the Ship with some hundreds of Birdsthat were smaller than Pidgeons, their backs were grey, their Bellieswhite, and the ends of their Tails black, and have a blackish line alongthe upper parts of the wings from the Tip of one to the other. We sawbirds very like those near Faulklands Islands on the Coast of Patagonia,only they had not the black streak along the wings; they fly low likesheer waters or mother Carys birds, and are perhaps of the same Tribe,for Distinction sake I shall call them Doves.* (* Probably petrels of thegenus Prion.) Wind Westerly; course South 4 degrees 15 minutes East;distance 68 miles; latitude 39 degrees 28 minutes South, longitude 147degrees 0 minutes West.

[September 1769.]

Friday, September 1st. Very strong Gales and heavy Squalls with rain; at6 p.m. brought too under the Main Sail. At 6 a.m. set the Foresail, aGreat Sea from the Westward. The same sort of Birds about the Ship asYesterday, but not in such great Numbers. Wind, Westerly; Course, South29 degrees East; distance 50 miles; latitude 40 degrees 12 minutes South,longitude 146 degrees 29 minutes West.

Saturday, 2nd. Very strong Gales, with heavy squalls of Wind, hail, andrain. At 4 p.m., being in the Latitude of 40 degrees 22 minutes South,and having not the least Visible signs of land, we wore, and brought toounder the Foresail, and reef'd the Mainsail, and handed it. I did intendto have stood to the Southward if the winds had been Moderate, so long asthey continued Westerly, notwithstanding we had no prospect of meetingwith land, Rather than stand back to the Northward, on the same Track aswe came, but as the weather was so very Tempestious I laid aside thisdesign, and thought it more adviseable to stand to the Northward intobetter weather, least we should receive such Damage in our Sails andRigging as might hinder the further Prosecutions of the Voyage.* (* Thislong excursion to the south is a fine instance of Cook's thoroughness anddetermination in exploration. The belief in a southern continent wasstrong amongst most geographers; but it rested on nothing more than thefalse idea that dry lands in the two hemispheres should balance oneanother. Cook himself did not share the general belief; and few others inhis position would have struggled for 1500 miles out of his direct courseinto bad weather, simply to disprove an idea, when so much unexploredocean lay before him to the westward, with a fair wind and fine weather.)Some Albetrosses, Pintado birds, and Doves about the Ship, and a Birdlarger than a Duck, his plumage of a Dark Brown, with a Yellow beak. Wesaw of these Birds in our Passage to the Northward, after doubling CapeHorn. At Noon the weather was more moderate; set the Reefd Mainsail. Agreat Sea from the West-South-West. Wind West; Course North 54 degrees 30minutes East; distance 46 miles; latitude 39 degrees 45 minutes South,longitude 145 degrees 39 minutes West.

Thursday, 7th. Fresh Gales and hard squalls, with rain. At 3 p.m. sawsomething upon the Water, which must either have been a Billet of Wood ora Seal. At Noon a hard gale and Squally, which obliged us to take in theTopsails. Wind Westerly; course South 80 degrees West; distance 15 miles;latitude 37 degrees 52 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 49 minutesWest.

Friday, 8th. P.M. very strong gales and Squally. A.M. more moderate; setthe Topsails. At Noon the Observed Latitude was 13 Miles to the North ofthe Log. This I take to be owing to the great Sea we have had constantlyof Late from the South-West. Wind Westerly; course North 1/4 East;distance 76 miles; latitude 36 degrees 36 minutes South, longitude 147degrees 40 minutes West.

Wednesday, 27th. Very strong Gales and hazey, with rain the First andMiddle part; Latter, moderate and clear weather. In the evening took inthe Topsails and Mainsail, and lay too with her head to the Westwardunder the Foresail. During the night, at 4 a.m., made Sail. Saw severalPieces of Sea Weed at different times this 24 Hours. Wind North by East,Westerly; course South 28 West; distance 95 miles; latitude 37 degrees 33minutes South, longitude 168 degrees 10 minutes West.

Friday, 29th. The first part strong Gales and Squally; remainder a freshbreeze and settled weather. At 1 p.m. was obliged to take in theTopsails, but set them again at 4. At 11 a.m. saw a Bird something like aSnipe, only it had a short bill; it had the appearance of a land bird.Several Albetrosses, Pintado birds, and Sheer Waters about the Ship, anda Number of Doves; of these we have seen more or less ever since the 31stof last Month, the day we first saw them. Wind South-West; course North59 degrees West; distance 60 miles; latitude 38 degrees 30 minutes South,longitude 170 degrees 14 minutes West.

Saturday, 30th. Moderate breezes and Settled weather. Saw a dark brownbird as big as a Raven; it is a Sea Fowl, and are seen in great Numbersabout the Faulkland Islands, as I am told. We likewise saw several piecesof Sea Weed. Wind South Easterly; course North 87 1/2 West; distance 90miles; latitude 38 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 20minutes West.

[October 1769.]

Sunday, October 1st. Little Wind in the day time and Calm in the Night.At 8 a.m. sounded: no ground with 120 fathoms of line. Saw an immencenumber of Birds, the most of them were Doves; saw likewise a Seal aSleepupon the Water, which we at first took for a Crooked billet. Thesecreatures, as they lay upon the Water, hold their fins up in a very oddmanner, and very different to any I have seen before; we generally reckonthat seals never go out of Soundings or far from Land, but the few wehave seen in this Sea is certainly an exception to that rule. However,one would think that we were not far from some land, from the Pieces ofRock weed we see daily floating upon the Water. To-day we took up a smallPiece of Stick, but to all appearance it had been a long time at Sea. Theobserv'd Latitude is considerable to the Northward of that given by theLog, in so much that I think there must be some Current seting from theSouthward. Wind South to West by North; course North 16 degrees West;distance 43 miles; latitude 37 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 172degrees 36 minutes West.

Monday, 2nd. Little wind. At 3 p.m. hoisted out a Boat to try theCurrent, but found none. Saw several Grampusses. A.M. had a Boat in theWater, and Mr. Banks shott an Albetross which measured 10 feet 8 Inchesfrom the tip of Wing to the other. He likewise shott 2 birds that werevery much like Ducks, excepting their head and Bill; their plumage weredark brown. We first saw some of these birds in the Latitude of 40degrees South, after our first coming into those Seas. WindWest-South-West, South-West; course North-North-West; distance 35 miles;latitude 37 degrees 10 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 54 minutesWest.

Tuesday, 3rd. Little wind and sometimes Calm. A.M. Variation per Azimuth13 degrees 22 minutes East. Saw some fish like a Skip Jack, and a smallsort that appeared very Transparent. Took up a very small piece of woodwith Barnacles upon it, a proof that it hath been some time at Sea. Somevery large Albetrosses about the Ship and other birds. The observedLatitude is 10 Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log, and itwas the same Yesterday, which I think is a Proof that there must be aCurrent setting to the Northward, notwithstanding we did not find anywhen we try'd it. Wind Southerly; course North 60 degrees West; distance28 miles; latitude 36 degrees 56 minutes South, longitude 173 degrees 27minutes West.

Thursday, 5th. Light, gentle breezes and Clear weather. P.M. saw one ofthe same sort of Birds as we saw last Saturday. These birds are of a darkbrown or Chocolate Colour, with some white feathers under their wings,and are as big as Ravens. Mr. Gore says that they are in great plenty atPort Egmont in Faulklands Islands, and for that reason calls them PortEgmont Hens. Saw a great many Porpoisses, large and Small; the small oneshad white bellies and Noses. A.M. saw 2 Port Egmont Hens, a Seal, somesea Weed, and a Piece of wood with Barnacles upon it. Wind South-East toEast-North-East; course South 49 1/2 West; distance 63 miles; latitude 38degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 176 degrees 3 minutes West.

Friday, 6th. Little wind, and fine pleasant weather. Saw some Seals, seaweed, and Port Egmont Hens. P.M. Variation per Azimuth 12 degrees 50minutes East. Per Amplitude 12 degrees 40 minutes. A.M. per Azimuth 14degrees 2 minutes East; the difference is 1 degree 3 minutes, and theShip has only gone 9 Leagues in the Time. The Colour of the water appearsto be paler than common, and hath been so for some days past; this makesus sound frequently, but can find no ground with 180 fathoms of Line.Wind East-North-East; course South-West; distance 62 miles; latitude 39degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 177 degrees 2 minutes West.

[Make New Zealand.]

Saturday, 7th. Gentle breezes and settled weather. At 2 p.m. saw land* (*The North island of New Zealand.) from the Masthead bearing West byNorth, which we stood directly for, and could but just see it of the Deckat sunset. Variation per Azimuth and Amplitude 15 degrees 4 1/2 minutesEast; by observation of the Sun and Moon made this afternoon theLongitude of the Ship is 180 degrees 55 minutes West, by the mean ofthese and Subsequent observations the Error of the Ship's account inLongitude from George's Island is 3 degrees 16 minutes; that is, so muchto the Westward of the Longitude resulting from the Log, which is what isinserted in the Columns. At Midnight brought too and sounded, but had noground with 170 fathoms. At daylight made sail in for the Land, at Noonit bore from South-West to North-West by North, distant 8 Leagues.Latitude observed 38 degrees 57 minutes South; Wind North-East,South-East, Variable; course South 70 degrees West; distance 41 miles;latitude 38 degrees 57 minutes observed South; longitude 177 degrees 54minutes West.

Sunday, 8th. Gentle breezes and clear weather. At 5 p.m., seeing theopening of a Bay that appear'd to run pretty far inland, hauld our windand stood in for it; but as soon as night came on we keept plying on andoff until day light, when we found ourselves to leeward of the Bay, thewind being at North. By Noon we fetch'd in with the South-West point, butnot being able to weather it we tacked and stood off. We saw in the Bayseveral Canoes, People upon the Shore, and some houses in the Country.The land on the Sea Coast is high, with Steep Cliffs; and back inland arevery high Mountains. The face of the Country is of a hilly surface, andappears to be cloathed with wood and Verdure. Wind between theEast-North-East and North.

CHAPTER 5. EXPLORATION OF NORTH ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.

[October 1769. At Poverty Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

MONDAY, 9th October. Gentle breezes and Clear Weather. P.M. stood intothe Bay and Anchored on the North-East side before the Entrance of asmall River,* (* Tauranga nui. The township of Gisborne is now situatedon its eastern bank.) in 10 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The North-Eastpoint of the Bay bore East by South 1/2 South, and the South-West pointSouth, distance from the Shore half a League. After this I went ashorewith a Party of men in the Pinnace and yawl accompanied by Mr. Banks andDr. Solander. We landed abreast of the Ship and on the East side of theRiver just mentioned; but seeing some of the Natives on the other side ofthe River of whom I was desirous of speaking with, and finding that wecould not ford the River, I order'd the yawl in to carry us over, and thepinnace to lay at the Entrance. In the mean time the Indians made off.However we went as far as their Hutts which lay about 2 or 300 Yards fromthe water side, leaving 4 boys to take care of the Yawl, which we had nosooner left than 4 Men came out of the woods on the other side the River,and would certainly have cut her off had not the People in the Pinnacediscover'd them and called to her to drop down the Stream, which theydid, being closely persued by the Indians. The coxswain of the Pinnace,who had the charge of the Boats, seeing this, fir'd 2 Musquets over theirHeads; the first made them stop and Look round them, but the 2nd theytook no notice of; upon which a third was fir'd and kill'd one of themupon the Spot just as he was going to dart his spear at the Boat. At thisthe other 3 stood motionless for a Minute or two, seemingly quitesurprised; wondering, no doubt, what it was that had thus kill'd theirComrade; but as soon as they recovered themselves they made off, draggingthe Dead body a little way and then left it. Upon our hearing the reportof the Musquets we immediately repair'd to the Boats, and after viewingthe Dead body we return'd on board. In the morning, seeing a number ofthe Natives at the same place where we saw them last night, I went onshore with the Boats, mann'd and arm'd, and landed on the opposite sideof the river. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself only landed at first,and went to the side of the river, the natives being got together on theopposite side. We called to them in the George's Island Language, butthey answer'd us by flourishing their weapons over their heads anddancing, as we suppos'd, the War Dance; upon this we retir'd until theMarines were landed, which I order'd to be drawn up about 200 yardsbehind us. We went again to the river side, having Tupia, Mr. Green, andDr. Monkhouse along with us. Tupia spoke to them in his own Language, andit was an agreeable surprize to us to find that they perfectly understoodhim. After some little conversation had passed one of them swam over tous, and after him 20 or 30 more; these last brought their Arms, which thefirst man did not. We made them every one presents, but this did notsatisfy them; they wanted everything we had about us, particularly ourArms, and made several attempts to snatch them out of our hands. Tupiatold us several times, as soon as they came over, to take care ofourselves for they were not our friends; and this we very soon found, forone of them snatched Mr. Green's hanger from him and would not give itup; this encouraged the rest to be more insolent, and seeing otherscoming over to join them, I order'd the man who had taken the Hanger tobe fir'd at, which was accordingly done, and wounded in such a mannerthat he died soon after. Upon the first fire, which was only 2 Musquets,the others retir'd to a Rock which lay nearly in the middle of the River;but on seeing the man fall they return'd, probably to carry him off orhis Arms, the last of which they accomplished, and this we could notprevent unless we had run our Bayonets into them, for upon theirreturning from off the Rock, we had discharged off our Peices, which wereloaded with small shott, and wounded 3 more; but these got over the Riverand were carried off by the others, who now thought proper to retire.Finding nothing was to be done with the People on this side, and thewater in the river being salt, I embarked with an intent to row round thehead of the Bay in search of fresh water, and if possible to surprisesome of the Natives and to take them on board, and by good Treatment andPresents endeavour to gain their friendship with this view.

Tuesday, 10th. P.M., I rowed round the head of the bay, but could find noplace to land on account of the Great Surf which beat everywhere upon theShore. Seeing 2 Boats or Canoes coming in from Sea I rowed to one ofthem, in order to Seize upon the People; and came so near before theytook notice of us that Tupia called to them to come alongside and wewould not hurt them; but instead of doing this they endeavour'd to getaway, upon which I order'd a Musquet to be fir'd over their Heads,thinking this would either make them surrender, or jump overboard; buthere I was mistaken, for they immediately took to their Arms or whateverthey had in the Boat, and began to attack us. This obliged us to fireupon them, and unfortunately either 2 or 3 were kill'd and one wounded,and 3 jumped overboard. These last we took up and brought on board, wherethey was Cloathed and Treated with all imaginable kindness; and to theSurprise of everybody became at once as cheerful and as merry as if theyhad been with their own Friends. They were all 3 Young, the eldest notabove 20 years of Age, and the youngest about 10 or 12. I am aware thatmost Humane men who have not experienced things of this nature willCensure my Conduct in firing upon the People in their Boat, nor do Imyself think that the reason I had for seizing upon her will at alljustify me; and had I thought that they would have made the LeastResistance I would not have come near them; but as they did, I was not tostand still and suffer either myself or those that were with me to beknocked on the head.

In the morning, as I intended to put our 3 Prisoners ashore, and stayhere the day to see what effect it might have upon the other Natives, Isent an Officer ashore with the Marines and a party of men to cut wood,and soon after followed myself, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander,and Tupia, taking the 3 Natives with us, whom we landed on the West sideof the River before mentioned. They were very unwilling to leave us,pretending that they should fall into the hands of their Enemies, whowould kill and Eat them. However, they at last of their own accord leftus and hid themselves in some bushes. Soon after this we discover'dseveral bodys of the Natives marching towards us, upon which we retir'daCross the River, and joind the wooders; and with us came the 3 Nativeswe had just parted with, for we could not prevail upon them to go totheir own people. We had no sooner got over the River than the othersassembled on the other side to the Number of 150 or 200, all Arm'd. Tupianow began to Parly with them, and the 3 we had with us shew'd everythingwe had given them, part of which they laid and left upon the Body of theMan that was Kill'd the day before. These things seem'd so far toConvince them of our friendly intentions that one man came over to us,while all the others sat down upon the Sand. We everyone made this man apresent, and the 3 Natives that were with us likewise presented him withsuch things as they had got from us, with which, after a short Stay, heretir'd aCross the River. I now thought proper to take everybody onboard, to prevent any more Quarrels, and with us came the 3 Natives, whomwe could not prevail upon to stay behind; and this appear'd the morestrange as the man that came over to us was Uncle to one of them. Afterwe had return'd on board we saw them Carry off the Dead Man; but the onethat was Kill'd the first evening we Landed remain'd in the very spotthey had left him.

[Leave Poverty Bay.]

Wednesday, 11th. In the P.M., as I intended to sail in the Morning, weput the 3 Youths ashore, seemingly very much against their inclination;but whether this was owing to a desire they had to remain with us, or thefear of falling into the hands of their Enemies, as they pretended, Iknow not. The latter, however, seemed to be ill-founded, for we saw themcarried aCross the River in a Catamaran, and walk Leasurely off with theother Natives. At 6 a.m. we weighed and stood out of the Bay, which Ihave named Poverty Bay, because it afforded us no one thing we wanted(Latitude 38 degrees 42 minutes South, Longitude 181 degrees 36 minutesWest).* (* Latitude correct. Longitude is 181 degrees 57 minutes West.)It is in the form of a Horse Shoe, and is known by an Island lying closeunder the North-East point. The 2 points which forms the Entrance arehigh, with Steap white Cliffs, and lay a League and a half or 2 Leaguesfrom Each other, North-East by East and South-West by West. The Depth ofWater in this Bay is from 12 to 6 and 5 fathoms, a sandy bottom and goodAnchorage, but you lay open to the winds between the South and East.Boats can go in and out of the river above mentioned at any time of Tidein fine weather; but as there is a Bar at the Entrance, on which the SeaSometimes runs so high that no Boat can either get in or out, whichhapned while we laid here; however, I believe that Boats can generallyland on the North-East side of the river. The shore of this Bay, from alittle within each Entrance, is a low, flat sand; but this is only aNarrow Slip, for the face of the Country appears with a variety of hillsand Vallies, all cloathed with woods and Verdure, and to all appearancewell inhabited, especially in the Vallies leading up from the Bay, wherewe daily saw Smoke at a great distance inland, and far back in theCountry are very high Mountains. At Noon the South-West point of PovertyBay, which I have named Young Nicks head (after the Boy who first sawthis land),* (* In Mr. Molineux's Log, his name is given as NicholasYoung, but no such name appears in the official lists.) bore North byWest, distance 3 or 4 leagues, being at this time about 3 Miles from theShore, and had 25 fathoms Water, the Main Land extending from North-Eastby North to South. My intention is to follow the direction of the Coastto the Southward, as far as the Latitude of 40 or 41 degrees, and then toreturn to the Northward, in case we meet with nothing to incourage us toproceed farther.

[Off Portland Island, North Island, New Zealand.]

Thursday, 12th. Gentle breezes at North-West and North, with frequentCalms. In the Afternoon, while we lay becalm'd, several Canoes came offto the Ship, but keept at a distance until one, who appeared to come froma different part, came off and put alongside at once, and after her allthe rest. The people in this boat had heard of the Treatment those hadmet with we had had on board before, and therefore came on board withouthesitation; they were all kindly treated, and very soon entered into aTraffick with our People for George's Island Cloth, etc.; giving inExchange their Paddles, having little else to dispose of, and hardly leftthemselves a sufficient number to paddle ashore; nay, the people in oneCanoe, after disposing of their Paddles, offer'd to sell the Canoe. Aftera stay of about 2 hours they went away, but by some means or other 3 wereleft on board, and not one boat would put back to take them in, and, whatwas more surprizing, those aboard did not seem at all uneasy with theirsituation. In the evening a light breeze springing up at North-West, westeer'd along Shore, under an easy sail, until midnight, then broughttoo. Soon after it fell Calm, and continued so until 8 o'Clock a.m., whena breeze sprung up at North, with which we stood along shoreSouth-South-West. At and after sunrise found the variation to be 14degrees 46 minutes East. About this time 2 Canoes came off to the Ship,one of which was prevailed upon to come along side to take in the 3people we had had on board all night, who now seem'd glad of theopportunity to get ashore. As the People in the Canoe were a little shyat first, it was observed that one Argument those on board made use on tointice the others alongside, was in telling them that we did not Eat men;from which it should seem that these people have such a Custom amongthem. At the time we made sail we were abreast of the Point of Land setyesterday at Noon, from which the Land trends South-South-West. Thispoint I have named Cape Table, on account of its shape and figure. Itlies 7 Leagues to the Southward of Poverty Bay, in the Latitude of 39degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes West, it is ofa moderate height, makes in a sharpe Angle, and appears to be quite flatat Top. In steering along shore to the Southward of the Cape, at thedistance of 2 or 3 miles off, our soundings were from 20 to 30 fathoms,having a Chain of Rocks that appears at different heights above water,laying between us and the Shore. At Noon, Cape Table bore North 20degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and a small Island (being theSouthermost land in sight) bore South 70 degrees West, distant 3 miles.This Island I have named Isle of Portland, on account of its very greatresemblance to Portland in the English Channel. It lies about a mile froma Point on the Main, but there appears to be a ledge of Rocks extendingnearly, if not quite, aCross from the one to the other. North 57 degreesEast, 2 Miles from the South point of Portland, lies a sunken rockwhereon the sea breaks; we passed between this Rock and the land having17, 18, and 20 fathom Water. We saw a great Number of the Nativesassembled together on the Isle of Portland; we likewise saw some on theMain land, and several places that were Cultivated and laid out in squarePlantations.

Friday, 13th. At 1 p.m. we discover'd land behind or to the Westward ofPortland, extending to the Southward as far as we could see. In haulinground the South end of Portland we fell into Shoal Water and brokenground, which we, however, soon got clear of. At this time 4 Canoes cameoff to us full of People, and keept for sometime under our sternthreatning of us all the while. As I did not know but what I might beobliged to send our Boats ahead to sound, I thought these Gentry would beas well out of the way. I order'd a Musquet shott to be fir'd close toone of them, but this they took no notice of. A 4 Pounder was then fir'da little wide of them; at this they began to shake their Spears andPaddles at us, but notwithstanding this they thought fit to retire.Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the Land North-West, having aGentle breeze at North-East, which died away at 5 o'Clock and obliged usto Anchor in 21 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom: the South Point of Portlandbore South-East 1/2 South distant about 2 Leagues, and a low Point on theMain bore North 1/2 East. In this last direction there runs in a deep baybehind the Land on which is Table Cape, which makes this Land aPeninsula, joined to the Main by a low, narrow neck of land; the Cape isthe North Point of the Peninsula, and Portland the South. While we lay atAnchor 2 Boats came off to us, and so near as to take up some things wethrow'd them out of the Ship, but would not come alongside. At 5 a.m. abreeze springing northerly we weigh'd and steer'd in for the Land. Theshore here forms a very large Bay, of which Portland is the North-EastPoint, and the Bay above mentioned is an Arm of it. I would gladly haveexamin'd this Arm, because there appear'd to be safe Anchorage in it, butas I was not certain of this, and the wind being right an End, I did notcare to spend time in Turning up to it. At Noon Portland bore South 50degrees East, and the Southermost land in sight bore South-South-West,distant 10 or 12 Leagues, being about 3 miles from the Shore, and in thissituation had 12 fathoms water--24 fathoms have been the most Water wehave had since we have been within Portland, every where clear ground.The land near the Shore is of a moderate height, with white Cliffs andSandy beaches. Inland are several Pretty high Mountains, and the wholeface of the Country appears with a very hilly surface, and for the mostpart Covered with wood, and hath all the appearances of a very pleasantand fertile Country.

Saturday, 14th. P.M. had Gentle breezes between the North-East andNorth-West. Kept running down along shore at the distance of 2 or 3 milesoff. Our sounding was from 20 to 13 fathoms, an even sandy bottom. We sawsome Canoes or Boats in shore, and several houses upon the Land, but noharbour or Convenient watering place--the Main thing we were looking for.In the night had little wind, and Sometimes Calm with Dirty, rainyweather. A.M. had Variable light Airs next to a Calm and fair weather. Inthe morning, being not above 2 Leagues from the South-West corner of thegreat Bay we have been in for the 2 days past, the Pinnace and Long boatwere hoisted out in order to search for Fresh Water; but just as theywere ready to put off we observed several Boats full of People coming offfrom the Shore, and for that reason I did not think it prudent to sendour own from the Ship. The first that came were 5 in Number, in them werebetween 80 and 90 men. Every Method was tried to gain their Friendship,and several things were thrown overboard to them; but all we could do wasto no purpose, neither would they accept of any one thing from us, butseem'd fully bent on attacking us. In order to prevent this, and ourbeing obliged to fire upon them, I order'd a 4 Pounder Loaded with grapeto be fir'd a little wide of them, letting them know at the same time byMeans of Tupia what we were going to do; this had the desir'd effect, andnot one of these would afterwards trust themselves abreast of the Ship.Soon after 4 more came off; one of these put what Arms they had intoanother Boat, and then came alongside so near as to take what things wegave them, and I believe might have been Prevailed upon to come on boardhad not some of the first 5 came up under our Stern and began again tothreaten us, at which the people in this one Boat seem'd displeased;immediately after this they all went ashore. At Noon Latitude in perObservation 39 degrees 37 minutes South. Portland bore by our run from itEast by North, distant 14 Leagues; the Southermost land in sight, andwhich is the South point of the Bay, South-East by South, distant 4 or 5Leagues; and a Bluff head lying in the South-West corner of the Bay Southby West 2 or 3 Miles. On each side of this bluff head is a low narrowsand or stone beach; between these beaches and the Main land is a prettylarge lake of Salt Water, as I suppose. On the South-East side of thishead is a very large flatt, which seems to extend a good way inland tothe Westward; on this flatt are Several groves of Streight, tall Trees,but there seems to be a great Probability that the lake above mentiondextends itself a good way into this flatt Country. Inland are a Chain ofPretty high Mountains extending North and South; on the Summits and Sidesof these Mountains were many Patches of Snow, but between them and theSea the Land is Cloathed with wood.* (* The Endeavour was now off what iscalled Ahuriri Bay. The bluff head is known as Ahuriri Bluff, and thetown of Napier, of 8000 inhabitants, lies at the back of it. The largesheet of salt water is called Manganui-o-rotu. There was no shelteredharbour for a vessel in the Endeavour's situation, but at present,harbour works have improved the entrance to the lagoon into which vesselsdrawing 12 feet can enter. Produce of the value of over a million poundsper annum is now exported from Napier.)

[In Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

Sunday, 15th. P.M. stood over for the Southermost Land or South point ofthe Bay, having a light breeze at North-East, our soundings from 12 to 8fathoms. Not reaching this point before dark, we stood Off and on allnight, having Variable light Airs next to a Calm; depth of water from 8to 7 fathoms; Variation 14 degrees 10 minutes East. At 8 a.m., beingabreast of the South-West point of the Bay, some fishing Boats came offto us and sold us some stinking fish; however it was such as they had,and we were glad to enter into Traffick with them upon any Terms. ThesePeople behaved at first very well, until a large Arm'd boat, wherein were22 Men, came alongside. We soon saw that this Boat had nothing forTraffick, yet as they came boldly alongside we gave them 2 or 3 pieces ofCloth, Articles they seem'd the most fond off. One Man in this Boat hadon him a black skin, something like a Bear Skin, which I was desirous ofhaving that I might be a better judge what sort of an Animal the firstOwner was. I offer'd him for it a piece of Red Cloth, which he seem'd tojump at by immediately putting off the Skin and holding it up to us, butwould not part with it until he had the Cloth in his possession and afterthat not at all, but put off the Boat and went away, and with them allthe rest. But in a very short time they return'd again, and one of thefishing Boats came alongside and offer'd us some more fish. The IndianBoy Tiata, Tupia's Servant, being over the side, they seiz'd hold of him,pull'd him into the Boat and endeavoured to carry him off; this obligedus to fire upon them, which gave the Boy an opportunity to jumpoverboard. We brought the Ship too, lower'd a Boat into the Water, andtook him up unhurt. Two or 3 paid for this daring attempt with the lossof their lives, and many more would have suffer'd had it not been forfear of killing the Boy. This affair occasioned my giving this point ofland the name of Cape Kidnapper. It is remarkable on account of 2 Whiterocks in form of Haystacks standing very near it. On each side of theCape are Tolerable high white steep Cliffs, Latitude 39 degrees 43minutes South; Longitude 182 degrees 24 minutes West; it lies South-Westby West, distant 13 Leagues from the Island of Portland. Between them isa large Bay wherein we have been for these 3 days past; this Bay I havenamed Hawkes Bay in Honour of Sir Edward, first Lord of the Admiralty; wefound in it from 24 to 8 and 7 fathoms, everywhere good Anchoring. FromCape Kidnapper the Island Trends South-South-West, and in this directionwe run along shore, keeping about a League off, having a steady breezeand Clear weather. At Noon the above Cape bore from us North 9 degreesEast, distant 2 Leagues, and the Southermost land in sight South 25degrees West Latitude in Per Observation 39 degrees 50 minutes South.

Monday, 16th. First and latter part, fresh breezes, Northerly; in thenight, Variable and sometimes calm. At 2 p.m. passed by a Small but aPretty high white Island lying close to the Shore. On this Island we sawa good many Houses, Boats, and Some People. We concluded that they mustbe fishers, because the Island was quite barren; we likewise saw severalpeople upon the Shore in a small Bay on the Main within the Island. At 7the Southermost land in sight bore South-West by South, and CapeKidnapper North 3/4 East, distant 8 leagues, being then about 2 Leaguesfrom the Shore, and had 55 fathoms. At 11 brought too until daylight,then made Sail along shore to the Southward. At 7 passed a pretty highpoint of Land, which lies South-South-West, 12 Leagues from CapeKidnapper. From this point the Land Trends 3/4 of a point more to theWestward. At 10 saw more land appear to the Southward, at South-West bySouth. At Noon the Southermost land in sight bore South 39 degrees West,distant 8 or 10 Leagues, and a high Bluff head with Yellowish Cliffs boreWest, distant 2 miles, Latitude observed 40 degrees 34 minutes South;depth of water 32 fathoms.

[Returning North from Cape Turnagain.]

Tuesday, 17th. P.M. winds at West, a fresh breeze; in the night, Variablelight Airs and Calm; a.m. a Gentle breeze between the North-West andNorth-East. Seeing no likelyhood of meeting with a Harbour, and the faceof the Country Visibly altering for the worse, I thought that thestanding farther to the South would not be attended with any Valuablediscovery, but would be loosing of Time, which might be better employ'dand with a greater Probability of success in examining the Coast to theNorthward. With this View, at 1 p.m. Tack'd and stood to the Northward,having the Wind at West, a fresh breeze.* (* If Cook had known the exactshape of New Zealand, he could scarcely have taken a better resolve, inview of saving time, than to turn northward again when he did.) At thistime we could see the land extending South-West by South, at least 10 or12 Leagues. The Bluff head or high point of land we were abreast off atNoon I have called Cape Turnagain because here we returned. It lies inthe Latitude of 40 degrees 34 minutes South, Longitude 182 degrees 55West, and 18 Leagues South-South-West and South-South-West 1/2 West fromCape Kidnapper. The land between them is of a very unequal height; insome places it is high, with White Cliffs next the Sea--in others low,with sandy beaches. The face of the Country is not nearly so wellCloathed with wood as it is about Hawkes Bay, but for the most part lookslike our high Downs in England, and to all appearance well inhabited, forwe saw several Villages as we run along shore, not only in the Vallies,but on the Tops and sides of the Hills, and Smokes in other places. Theridge of Mountains before mentioned extends to the Southward farther thanwe could see, and are every where Checquer'd with Snow. This night saw 2Large fires up in the inland Country, a sure sign that it must beinhabited. At Noon Cape Kidnapper bore North 56 degrees West, distant 7Leagues; latitude observed 39 degrees 52 minutes South.

Thursday, 19th. The first part had Gentle breezes at East andEast-North-East; in the night, fresh Gales between the South andSouth-West; dark, Cloudy weather, with Lightning and rain. At 1/2 past 5P.M. Tack'd and stood to the South-East: the Isle of Portland boreSouth-East, distant 3 Leagues. Soon after we Tacked a boat or Canoe cameoff from the Shore, wherein were 5 People. They came on board withoutshewing the least signs of fear, and insisted upon staying with us thewhole night; indeed, there was no getting them away without turning themout of the Ship by force, and that I did not care to do; but to preventthem playing us any Trick I hoisted their Canoe up alongside. Twoappear'd to be Chiefs, and the other 3 their Servants. One of the Chiefsseem'd to be of a free, open, and Gentle disposition; they both tookgreat notice of everything they saw, and was very thankful for what wasgiven them. The 2 Chiefs would neither Eat nor Drink with us, but theother 3 Eat whatever was offer'd them. Notwithstanding that these peoplehad heard of the Treatment the others had meet with who had been on boardbefore, yet it appear'd a little strange that they should place so muchConfidence in us as to put themselves wholy in our power wether we wouldor no, especially as the others we had meet with in this bay had uponevery occasion behaved in quite a different manner. At 11 brought toountil daylight (the night being dark and rainy), then made sail. At 7a.m. brought too under Cape Table, and sent away the Indian Canoe. Atthis Time some others were putting off from the Shore, but we did notwait their coming, but made sail to the Northward. At Noon theNorthermost land in sight North 20 degrees East, and Young Nicks head, orthe South point of Poverty Bay, West-Northerly, near 4 Leagues. Latitudeobserved 38 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds South.

Friday, 20th. P.M. a fresh breeze at South-South-West; in the night,variable light breezes, with rain; A.M. a fresh breeze at South-West. At3 p.m. passed by a remarkable head, which I called Gable end Foreland onaccount of the very great resemblance the white cliff at the very pointhath to the Gable end of a House. It is made still more remarkable by aSpir'd Rock standing a little distance from it. This head land lies fromCape Table North 24 degrees East, distant 12 Leagues. Between them theShore forms a Bay, wherein lies Poverty Bay, 4 Leagues from the formerand 8 Leagues from the Latter. From Gable end Foreland the land trendsNorth by East as far as we could see. The land from Poverty Bay to thisplace is of a moderate but very unequal height, distinguished by Hillsand Vallies that are Cover'd with woods. We saw, as we run along shore,several Villages, cultivated lands, and some of the Natives. In theevening some Canoes came off to the Ship, and one Man came on board towhom we gave a few Trifles and then sent him away. Stood off and on untildaylight, and then made sail in shore in order to look into 2 Bays thatappear'd to our view about 2 Leagues to the Northward of the Foreland.The Southermost we could not fetch, but in the other we Anchor'd about 11o'Clock in 7 fathoms, a black sandy bottom. The North point boreNorth-East 1/2 North, distant 2 Miles, and the South Point South-East byEast, distant one Mile, and about 3/4 of a Mile from the Shore. This Bayis not so much Shelter'd from the Sea as I at first thought it was; butas the Natives, many of whom came about us in their Canoes, appear'd tobe of a friendly disposition, I was willing to try if we could not get alittle water on board, and to see a little into the Nature of the Countrybefore we proceeded further to the Northward.

Saturday, 21st. We had no sooner come to an Anchor, as mentioned above,than perceiving 2 old Men in the Canoes, who from their Garbe appear'd tobe Chiefs, these I invited on board, and they came without Hesitation. Toeach I gave about 4 Yards of linnen and a Spike Nail; the linnen theywere very fond of, but the Nails they seem'd to set no Value upon. Tupiaexplain'd to them the reasons of our Coming here, and that we shouldneither hurt nor Molest them if they did but behave in the same peaceablemanner to us; indeed, we were under very little apprehension but whatthey would, as they had heard of what hapned in Poverty Bay. Between 1and 2 p.m. I put off with the Boats mann'd and Arm'd in order to land tolook for fresh Water, these 2 Men along with us; but the surf runningvery high, and it begun to blow and rain at the same time, I returnedback to the Ship, having first put the 2 Chiefs into one of their Canoes.In the evening it fell moderate, and we landed and found 2 Small Streamsof Fresh Water, and the Natives to all appearance very friendly andpeaceable; on which account I resolved to Stay one day at least, to filla little water and to give Mr. Banks an opportunity to Collect a littleof the Produce of the Country. In the morning Lieutenant Gore went onshore to superintend the Watering with a Strong party of Men, but thegetting the Casks off was so very difficult, on account of the Surf, thatit was noon before one Turn came on board.

[At Tegadoo Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

Sunday, 22nd. P.M. light breezes and Cloudy. About or a little after Noonseveral of the Natives came off to the Ship in their Canoes and began toTraffick with us, our people giving them George's Island Cloth fortheirs, for they had little else to dispose of. This kind of exchangethey seem'd at first very fond of, and prefer'd the Cloth we had got atthe Islands to English Cloth; but it fell in its value above 500 p. ct.before night. I had some of them on board, and Shew'd them the Ship, withwhich they were well pleased. The same friendly disposition was observedby those on shore, and upon the whole they behaved as well or better thanone could expect; but as the getting the Water from the Shore proved sovery Tedious on account of the Surf, I resolved upon leaving this placein the morning, and accordingly, at 5 a.m., we weighed and put to Sea.This Bay is called by the Natives Tegadoo;* (* Anaura Bay.) it lies inthe Latitude of 38 degrees 16 minutes South, but as it hath nothing torecommend it I shall give no discription of it. There is plenty of WildSellery, and we purchased of the Natives 10 or 15 pounds of sweetPotatoes. They have pretty large plantations of these, but at presentthey are scarce, it being too Early in the Season. At Noon the Bay ofTegadoo bore West 1/2 South, distant 8 Leagues, and a very high doublepeak'd Mountain some distance in land bore North-West by West. Latitudeobserved 38 degrees 13 minutes South; Wind at North, a fresh Gale.

Monday, 23rd. P.M. fresh Gales at North, and Cloudy weather. At 1 Tack'dand stood in shore; at 6 Sounded, and had 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom;the Bay of Tegadoo bore South-West 1/2 West, distance 4 Leagues. At 8Tack'd in 36 fathoms, being then about 2 Leagues from land; stood off andon all night, having Gentle breezes. At 8 a.m., being right before theBay of Tegadoo and about a League from it, some of the Natives came offto us and inform'd us that in a Bay a little to the Southward (being thesame that we could not fetch the day we put into Tegadoo) was fresh Waterand easey getting at it; and as the wind was now against us, and wegain'd nothing by beating to windward, I thought the time would be betterspent in this Bay* (* Tolaga.) in getting on board a little water, andforming some Connections with the Natives, than by keeping the Sea. Withthis view we bore up for it, and sent 2 Boats in, Mann'd and Arm'd, toExamine the Watering Place, who returned about noon and conform'd theaccount the Natives had given. We then Anchor'd in 11 fathoms, fine sandybottom; the North point of the Bay North by East and the South pointSouth-East, and the watering place, which was in a Small Cove a littlewithin the South point of the Bay, distance one Mile.

Tuesday, 24th. Winds Westerly and fine weather. This afternoon, as soonas the Ship was moor'd, I went ashore to Examine the watering place,accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. I found the Water good and thePlace pretty Convenient, and plenty of Wood close to high Water Mark, andthe Natives to all appearance not only very friendly but ready toTraffick with us for what little they had. Early in the morning I sentLieutenant Gore ashore to Superintend the Cutting wood and filling ofWater, with a Sufficient number of men for both purposes, and all theMarines as a Guard. After breakfast I went myself, and remain'd there thewhole day; but before this Mr. Green and I took several observations ofthe Sun and Moon. The mean result of them gave 180 degrees 47 minutesWest Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich; but as all theobservations made before exceeded these, I have laid down this Coastagreeable to the means of the whole. At noon I took the Sun's MeridianAltitude with the Astronomical Quadrant, and found the Latitude 38degrees 22 minutes 24 seconds South.

Wednesday, 25th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. P.M. set up theArmourer's Forge to repair the Tiller braces, they being broke. By nightwe had got on board 12 Tons of Water and two or 3 Boats' loads of Wood,and this I looked upon to be a good day's work. The Natives gave us notthe least disturbance, but brought us now and then different sorts ofFish out to the Ship and Watering place, which we purchased of them withCloth, beads, etc.

Thursday, 26th. P.M. had the winds from between the South and South-West,fair weather; the remainder, rainy, dirty weather. Notwithstanding wecontinued getting on board Wood and Water.

Friday, 27th. Winds at South-West; first part rainy weather, theremainder fair. A.M. sent the Pinnace to drudge, but she met with nosuccess; after this, I went and sounded the Bay. I made a Shift to landin 2 Places, the first time in the bottom of the bay, where I went alittle way into the Country, but met with nothing extraordinary. Theother place I landed at was at the North point of the Bay, where I got asmuch Sellery and Scurvy grass as loaded the Boat. This day we compleatedour Water to 70 Tons, but not wood Enough.

Saturday, 28th. Gentle breezes Southerly and fine weather. Employ'dwooding, cutting, and making of Brooms, there being a Shrub here very fitfor that purpose; and as I intended to sail in the morning some handswere employ'd picking of Sellery to take to Sea with us. This is foundhere in great plenty, and I have caused it to be boiled with PortableSoup and Oatmeal every morning for the people's breakfast; and this Idesign to continue as long as it will last, or any is to be got, and Ilook upon it to be very wholesome and a great Antiscorbutick.

[At Tolaga Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

Monday, 29th. P.M. Gentle breezes with Thunder and Lightning up theCountry; in the night had light Airs off the land and very foggy; in theforenoon had a gentle breeze at North-North-East and Clear weather. At 4a.m. unmoor'd, and at 6 weigh'd and put to Sea. At Noon the bay sail'dfrom bore North 63 degrees West, distant 4 Leagues. This bay is called bythe Natives Tolaga;* (* It still goes by this name.) it is moderatelylarge, and hath in it from 13 to 8 and 7 fathoms, clean sandy bottom andgood Anchorage, and is shelterd from all winds except those that blowfrom the North-East Quarter. It lies in the Latitude of 38 degrees 22minutes South, and 4 1/2 Leagues to the Northward of Gable end Foreland.Off the South point lies a small but high Island, so near to the Main asnot to be distinguished from it. Close to the North end of this Island,at the Entrance into the Bay, are 2 high Rocks; one is high and roundlike a Corn Stack, but the other is long with holes thro' it like theArches of a Bridge. Within these rocks is the Cove, where we cut wood andfill'd our Water. Off the North point of the Bay is a pretty high rockyIsland, and about a Mile without it are some rocks and breakers. Thevariation of the Compass is here 14 degrees 31 minutes East, and the Tideflows at full and change of the Moon about 6 o'Clock, and rises and fallsupon a Perpendicular 5 or 6 feet, but wether the flood comes from theSouthward or Northward I have not been able to determine.

During our stay in this bay we had every day more or less Traffick withthe Natives, they bringing us fish, and now and then a few sweet Potatoesand several trifles which we deemd Curiosities; for these we gave themCloth, Beads, Nails, etc. The Cloth we got at King George's Island andUlietea, they valued more than anything we could give them, and as everyone in the Ship were provided with some of this sort of Cloth, I suffer'devery body to purchase what ever they pleased without limitation; for bythis means I knew that the Natives would not only sell but get a goodPrice for every thing they brought. This I thought would induce them tobring to Market whatever the Country afforded, and I have great reason tothink that they did, yet it amounted to no more than what is abovementioned. We saw no 4 footed Animals, either Tame or Wild, or signs ofany, except Dogs and Rats,* (* Cook's powers of observation are hereevident. There were no other quadrupeds in New Zealand.) and these werevery Scarce, especially the latter. The flesh of the former they eat, andornament their clothing with their skins as we do ours with furs, etc.While we lay here I went upon some of the Hills in order to View theCountry, but when I came there I could see but very little of it, thesight being interrupted by still higher hills. The Tops and ridges of theHills are for the most part barren, at least little grows on them butfern; but the Valleys and sides of many of the Hills were luxuriouslyclothed with woods and Verdure and little Plantations of the Nativeslying dispers'd up and down the Country. We found in the Woods, Trees ofabove 20 different sorts; Specimens of each I took on board, as all ofthem were unknown to any of us. The Tree which we cut for firing wassomething like Maple and yeilded a whitish Gum. There was another sort ofa deep Yellow which we imagin'd might prove useful in dying. We likewisefound one Cabage Tree* (* Palm.) which we cut down for the sake of thecabage. The Country abounds with a great Number of Plants, and the woodswith as great a variety of beautiful birds, many of them unknown to us.The soil of both the hills and Valleys is light and sandy, and veryproper for producing all kinds of Roots, but we saw only sweet potatoesand Yams among them; these they plant in little round hills, and haveplantations of them containing several Acres neatly laid out and keept ingood order, and many of them are fenced in with low paling which can onlyserve for Ornament.

Monday, 30th. P.M. little wind and cloudy weather. At 1 Tack'd and stoodin shore; at 7 o'Clock Tolaga Bay bore West-North-West, distant oneLeague. Tack'd and lay her head off; had it calm until 2 a.m., when abreeze sprung up at South-West, and we made Sail to the Northward. At 6,Gable end Foreland bore South-South-West, and Tolaga bay South-South-West1/4 West, distance 3 Leagues. At 8, being about 2 Miles from the shore,some Canoes that were fishing came after the Ship; but we having a freshof wind they could not come up with us, and I did not chuse to wait forthem. At Noon, Latitude per observation 37 degrees 49 minutes South, asmall Island lying off the Northernmost land in sight, bore North 16degrees East, distant 4 Miles; course from Tolaga bay North by East 1/2East, distance 13 Leagues. The Land from thence is of a moderate butunequal height, forming several small bays wherein are sandy beaches.Hazey, cloudy weather prevented us from seeing much of the inlandcountry, but near the Shore we could see several Villages and Plantationsof the Natives. Soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms.

[Off Cape Runaway, North Island, New Zealand.]

Tuesday, 31st. At half-past one p.m. hauled round the Island abovementioned, which lies East 1 Mile from the North-East point of the land.The lands from hence Trends North-West by West, and West-North-West, asfar as we could see. This point of Land I have called East Cape, becauseI have great reason to think that it is the Eastermost land on this wholeCoast; and for the same reason I have called the Island which lays offit, East Island. It is but of a small circuit, high and round, andappears white and barren. The Cape is of a moderate height with whitecliffs, and lies in the Latitude of 37 degrees 42 minutes 30 secondsSouth, and Longitude 181 degrees 00 minutes West from the Meridian ofGreenwich. After we had rounded the East Cape we saw, as we run alongshore, a great number of Villages and a great deal of Cultivated land;and in general the country appear'd with more fertility than what we hadseen before; it was low near the Sea, but hilly inland. At 8, being 8leagues to the Westward of Cape East, and 3 or 4 miles from the shore,shortned sail and brought too for the night, having at this Time a freshGale at South-South-East and squally weather; but it soon fell moderate,and at 2 a.m. made Sail again to the South-West as the land now Trended.At 8 saw land which made like an Island bearing West. At the same timethe South-Westermost part of the Main bore South-West. At 9, five Canoescame off to us, in one of which were upwards of 40 Men all Arm'd withPikes, etc.; from this and other Circumstances it fully appear'd thatthey came with no friendly intentions; and I at this Time being verybuisey, and had no inclination to stay upon deck to watch their Motions,I order'd a Grape shot to be fir'd a little wide of them. This made thempull off a little, and then they got together either to consult what todo or to look about them. Upon this I order'd a round shott to be fir'dover their heads, which frightend them to that degree that I believe theydid not think themselves safe until they got ashore. This occasion'd ourcalling the Point of land off which this hapned, Cape Runaway. Latitude37 degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 50 minutes West, and17 or 18 Leagues to the Westward of East Cape. 4 Leagues to the Westwardof East Cape is a bay which I have named Hicks's bay, because LieutenantHicks was the first who discover'd it.

[November 1769.]

Wednesday, 1st November. P.M., as we stood along shore (having littlewind, and Variable), we saw a great deal of Cultivated land laid out inregular inclosures, a sure sign that the Country is both fertile and wellinhabited. Some Canoes came off from the shore, but would not come nearthe Ship. At 8 brought to 3 Miles from the Shore, the land seen yesterdaybearing West, and which we now saw was an Island, bore South-West,* (*This should evidently be North-West.) distant 8 leagues. I have named itWhite Island,* (* White Island is an active volcano. It was evidentlyquiescent at the time of the Endeavour passing.) because as such italways appear'd to us. At 5 a.m. made Sail along shore to the South-West,having little wind at East-South-East and Cloudy weather. At 8 sawbetween 40 and 50 Canoes in shore. Several of them came off to the Ship,and being about us some time they ventur'd alongside and sold us someLobsters, Muscels, and 2 Conger Eales. After these were gone some otherscame off from another place with Muscels only, and but few of these theythought proper to part with, thinking they had a right to everything wehanded them into their Canoes without making any return. At last thePeople in one Canoe took away some linnen that was towing over the side,which they would not return for all that we could say to them. Upon thisI fir'd a Musket Ball thro' the Canoe, and after that another musquetload with Small Shott, neither of which they minded, only pulled off alittle, and then shook their paddles at us, at which I fir'd a thirdMusquet; and the ball, striking the Water pretty near them, theyimmediately apply'd their Paddles to another use; but after they thoughtthemselves out of reach they got altogether, and Shook their Paddlesagain at us. I then gave the Ship a Yaw, and fir'd a 4 Pounder. This sentthem quite off, and we keept on our course along shore, having a lightbreeze at East-South-East. At noon we were in the Latitude of 37 degrees55 minutes, White Island bearing North 29 degrees West, distant 8Leagues.

Thursday, 2nd. Gentle breezes from North-West round Northerly toEast-South-East and fair weather. At 2 p.m. saw a pretty high Islandbearing West from us, and at 5 saw more Islands and Rocks to the Westwardof it. Hauld our wind in order to go without them, but, finding that wecould not weather them before dark, bore up, and run between them and theMain. At 7 was close under the first Island, from whence a large doubleCanoe full of People came off to us. This was the first double Canoe wehad seen in this Country. They staid about the Ship until it was dark,then left us; but not before they had thrown a few stones. They told usthe name of the Island, which was Mowtohora.* (* Motuhora, called alsoWhale Island.) It is but of a small Circuit, but high, and lies 6 Milesfrom the Main. Under the South side is Anchorage in 14 fathoms.South-West by South from this Island on the Main land, seemingly at nogreat distance from the Sea, is a high round Mountain, which I have namedMount Edgcombe. It stands in the middle of a large Plain, which make itthe more Conspicuous. Latitude 37 degrees 59 minutes South, Longitude 183degrees 07 minutes West. In standing to the Westward we Shoalded ourWater from 17 to 10 fathoms, and knowing that we were not far from someSmall Islands and Rocks that we had seen before dark, after Passing ofwhich I intended to have brought too for the night, but I now thought itmore prudent to tack, and spend the Night under the Island of Mowtohora,where I knew there was no danger. And it was well we did, for in themorning, after we had made Sail to the Westward, we discovered Rocksahead of us Level with and under the Water.* (* Rurima Rocks.) They lay 11/2 Leagues from the Island Mowtohora, and about 9 Miles from the Main,and North-North-East from Mount Edgecumbe. We passed between these Rocksand the Main, having from 7 to 10 fathoms. The double Canoe which we sawlast night follow'd us to-day under Sail, and keept abreast of the Shipnear an hour talking to Tupia, but at last they began to pelt us withstones. But upon firing one Musquet they dropt aStern and left us. At 1/2past 10 Passed between a low flat Island and the Main, the distance fromone to the other being 4 Miles; depth of Water 10, 12, and 15 fathoms. AtNoon the flat Island* (* Motunau.) bore from North-East to East 1/2North, distance 5 or 6 Miles; Latitude in per Observation 37 degrees 39minutes South, Longitude 183 degrees 30 minutes West. The Main landbetween this and the Island of Mowtohara, which is 10 Leagues, is of amoderate height, and all a level, flat Country, pretty clear of wood andfull of Plantations and Villiages. These Villiages are built uponEminences Near the Sea, and are Fortified on the land side with a Bankand a Ditch, and Pallisaded all round. Besides this, some of themappear'd to have out-works. We have before now observed, on several partsof the Coast, small Villiages inclosed with Pallisades and works of thiskind built on Eminences and Ridges of hills, but Tupia had all along toldus that they were Mories, or places of worship; but I rather think theyare places of retreat or strong hold where they defend themselves againstthe Attack of an Enemy, as some of them seem'd not ill design'd for thatPurpose.* (* In the contests with the Maories in after years, these Pahs,or forts, proved to be no despicable defences.)

[In Bay of Plenty, North Island, New Zealand.]

Friday, 3rd. P.M. Fresh Gales at North-East by East and hazey weather. At2 pass'd a small high Island lying 4 Miles from a high round head on theMain* (* The island was Moliti; the high round head was Maunganui, whichmarks the entrance to Tauranga harbour, a good port, where now stands asmall town of the same name.) from this head the land Trends North-Westas far as we could see, and appeared to be very rugged and hilly. Theweather being very hazey, and the Wind blowing fresh on shore, we hauledoff close upon a wind for the weathermost Island in sight, which borefrom us North-North-East, distant 6 or 7 Leagues. Under this Island wespent the Night, having a fresh gale at North-East and North-East byEast, and hazey weather with rain; this Island I have called the Mayor.At 7 a.m. it bore South 47 degrees East, distant 6 Leagues, and a Clusterof small Islands and Rocks bore North 1/2 East, distant one League. Atthe time had a Gentle breeze at East-North-East and clear weather. TheCluster of Islands and Rocks just mentioned we named the Court ofAldermen; they lay in the Compass of about half a League every way, and 5Leagues from the Main, between which and them lay other Islands. The mostof them are barren rocks, and of these there is a very great Variety,some of them are of as small a Compass as the Monument in London, andSpire up to a much greater height; they lay in the Latitude of 36 degrees57 minutes, and some of them are inhabited. At Noon they bore South 60degrees East, distant 3 or 4 Leagues, and a Rock like a Castle lying notfar from the Main, bore North 40 degrees West, one League. Latitudeobserved 36 degrees 58 minutes South; Course and distance since Yesterdaynoon is North-North-West 1/2 West, about 20 Leagues. In this Situationhad 28 fathoms water, and a great many small Islands and Rocks on everyside of us. The Main land appears here with a hilly, rugged, and barrensurface, no Plantations to be seen, nor no other signs of its being wellinhabited.

Saturday, 4th. The first and middle parts, little wind at East-North-Eastand Clear weather; the Latter had a fresh breeze at North-North-West andhazey with rain. At 1 p.m. 3 Canoes came off from the Main to the Ship,and after Parading about a little while they darted 2 Pikes at us. Thefirst was at one of our Men as he was going to give them a rope, thinkingthey were coming on board; but the 2nd they throw'd into the Ship; thefiring of one musquet sent them away. Each of these Canoes were made outof one large Tree, and were without any sort of Ornament, and the peoplein them were mostly quite naked. At 2 p.m. saw a large op'ning or inletin the land, which we bore up for with an intent to come to an Anchor. Atthis time had 41 fathoms, which gradually decreased to 9 fathoms, atwhich time we were 1 1/2 Mile from a high Tower'd Rock lying near theSouth point of the inlet; the rock and the Northermost of the Court ofAldermen being in one bearing South 61 degrees East. At 1/2 past 7Anchor'd in 7 Fathoms a little within the South Entrance of the Bay orinlet. We were accompanied in here by several Canoes, who stay'd aboutthe Ship until dark; and before they went away they were so generous asto tell us that they would come and attack us in the morning; but some ofthem paid us a Visit in the night, thinking, no doubt, but what theyshould find all hands asleep, but as soon as they found their Mistakethey went off. My reasons for putting in here were the hopes ofdiscovering a good Harbour, and the desire I had of being in someconvenient place to observe the Transit of Mercury, which happens on the9th Instant, and will be wholy Visible here if the day is clear. If we beso fortunate as to obtain this observation, the Longitude of this placeand Country will thereby be very accurately determined. Between 5 and 6o'Clock in the morning several Canoes came off to us from all parts ofthe Bay; in them were about 130 or 140 People. To all appearances theirfirst design was to attack us, being all Completely Arm'd in their way;however, this they never attempted, but after Parading about the Shipnear 3 Hours, sometimes trading with us, and at other times Tricking ofus, they dispersed; but not before we had fir'd a few Musquets and onegreat gun, not with any design to hurt any of them, but to shew them whatsort of Weapons we had, and that we could revenge any insult they offer'dto us. It was observable that they paid but little regard to the Musquetsthat were fir'd, notwithstanding one ball was fir'd thro' one of theirCanoes, but what Effect the great gun had I know not, for this was notfir'd until they were going away.

[At Mercury Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

At 10, the weather Clearing up a little, I went with 2 Boats to sound theBay and to look for a more convenient Anchoring place, the Master beingin one Boat, and I in the other. We pull'd first over the North Shore,where some Canoes came out to meet us, but as we came near them theyretir'd to the Shore and invited us to follow them, but seeing they wereall Arm'd I did not think fit to Except of their Invitation; but afterTrading with them out of the Boat for a few Minutes we left them and wenttowards the head of the Bay. I observed on a high Point a fortifiedVillage, but I could only see a part of the works, and as I intend to seethe whole, shall say no more about it at this time. After having fix'dupon an Anchoring place not far from where the Ship lay I return'd onboard.

Sunday, 5th. Winds at North-North-West, Hazey weather with rain in thenight. At 4 p.m. weigh'd and run in nearer the South shore and Anchor'din 4 1/2 fathoms, a soft sandy bottom, the South point of the Bay bearingEast, distant 1 Mile, and a River (into which the boats can go at lowWater) South-South-East, distant 1 1/2 Miles.* (* The bight in which theEndeavour anchored is now known as Cook Bay.) In the morning the Nativescame off again to the Ship, but their behaviour was very different towhat it was Yesterday morning, and the little traffick we had with themwas carried on very fair and friendly. Two came on board the Ship--toeach I gave a Piece of English Cloth and some Spike Nails. After theNatives were gone I went with the Pinnace and Long boat into the River tohaul the Sean, and sent the Master to sound the Bay and drudge for fishin the Yawl. We hauled the Sean in several places in the River, butcaught only a few Mullet, with which we returned on board about Noon.

Monday, 6th. Moderate breezes at North-North-West, and hazey weather withrain in the night. P.M. I went to another part of the Bay to haul theSean, but meet with as little Success as before; and the Master did notget above 1/2 a Bucket full of Shells with the Drudge. The Nativesbrought to the Ship, and sold to our People, small Cockles, Clams, andMussels, enough for all hands. These are found in great plenty upon theSand Banks of the River. In the morning I sent the Long boat to Trawl inthe Bay, and one Officer with the Marines and a party of men to Cut woodand haul the Sean, but neither the Sean nor the Trawl meet with anysuccess; but the Natives in some measure made up for this by bringingseveral Baskets of dry'd or ready dress'd fish; altho' it was none of thebest I order'd it all to be bought up in order to encourage them toTrade.

Tuesday, 7th. The first part moderate and fair; the remainder a freshbreeze, northerly, with dirty, hazey, raining Weather. P.M. got on boarda Long boat Load of Water, and Caught a dish of fish in the Sean. Foundhere a great Quantity of Sellery, which is boild every day for the Ship'sCompany as usual.

Wednesday, 8th. P.M. fresh breeze at North-North-West and hazey, rainyweather; the remainder a Gentle breeze at West-South-West and ClearWeather. A.M. heeld and Scrubb'd both sides of the Ship and Sent a Partyof Men ashore to Cutt wood and fill Water. The Natives brought off to theShip, and Sold us for Small pieces of Cloth, as much fish as served allhands; they were of the Mackrell kind, and as good as ever was Eat. AtNoon I observ'd the Sun's Meridian Zenith distance, by the AstronomicalQuadrant, which gave the Latitude 36 degrees 47 minutes 43 seconds South;this was in the River before mentioned, that lies within the SouthEntrance of the Bay.

Thursday, 9th. Variable light breezes and Clear weather. As soon as itwas daylight the Natives began to bring off Mackrell, and more than wewell know what to do with; notwithstanding I order'd all they brought tobe purchased in order to encourage them in this kind of Traffick. At 8,Mr. Green and I went on shore with our Instruments to observe the Transitof Mercury, which came on at 7 hours 20 minutes 58 seconds Apparent time,and was observed by Mr. Green only.* (* Mr. Green satirically remarks inhis Log, "Unfortunately for the seamen, their look-out was on the wrongside of the sun." This probably refers to Mr. Hicks, who was alsoobserving. It rather seems, however, as if Cook, on this occasion, wascaught napping by an earlier appearance of the planet than was expected.)I, at this time, was taking the Sun's Altitude in order to Ascertain thetime. The Egress was observed as follows:--

Latitude observed at noon 36 degrees 48 minutes 28 seconds, the mean ofthis and Yesterday's observation gives 36 degrees 48 minutes 5 1/2seconds South; the Latitude of the Place of Observation, and theVariation of the Compass was at this time found to be 11 degrees 9minutes East. While we were making these observations 5 Canoes camealongside the Ship, 2 Large and 3 Small ones, in one were 47 People, butin the other not so many. They were wholy strangers to us, and to allappearance they came with a Hostile intention, being compleatly Arm'dwith Pikes, Darts, Stones, etc.; however, they made no attempt, and thiswas very probable owing to their being inform'd by some other Canoes (whoat this time were alongside selling fish) what sort of people they had toDeal with. When they first came alongside they begun to sell our peoplesome of their Arms, and one Man offer'd to Sale a Haahow, that is aSquare Piece of Cloth such as they wear. Lieutenant Gore, who at thistime was Commanding Officer, sent into the Canoe a piece of Cloth whichthe Man had agreed to Take in Exchange for his, but as soon as he had gotMr. Gore's Cloth in his Possession he would not part with his own, butput off the Canoe from alongside, and then shook their Paddles at thePeople in the Ship. Upon this, Mr. Gore fir'd a Musquet at them, and,from what I can learn, kill'd the Man who took the Cloth; after this theysoon went away. I have here inserted the account of this Affair just as Ihad it from Mr. Gore, but I must own it did not meet with my approbation,because I thought the Punishment a little too severe for the Crime, andwe had now been long Enough acquainted with these People to know how toChastise Trifling faults like this without taking away their Lives.

Friday, 10th. P.M., Gentle breezes and Variable; the remainder, a Strongbreeze at East-North-East, and hazey weather. A.M., I went with 2 Boats,accompanied by Mr. Banks and the other Gentlemen into the River whichEmptys itself into the head of the Bay, in order to Examine it; none ofthe Natives came off to the Ship this morning, which we think is owing tobad weather.

[Pahs in Mercury Bay, New Zealand.]

Saturday, 11th. Fresh Gales at East-North-East, and Cloudy, hazey weatherwith rain. Between 7 and 8 o'Clock p.m. I returnd on board from out theRiver, having been about 4 or 5 Miles up it, and could have gone muchfarther had the weather been favourable. I landed on the East side andwent upon the Hills, from whence I saw, or at least I thought I saw, thehead of the River. It here branched into several Channels, and form'd aNumber of very low flat Islands, all cover'd with a sort of MangroveTrees, and several places of the Shores of both sides the River wereCover'd with the same sort of wood. The sand banks were well stored withCockles and Clams, and in many places were Rock Oysters. Here is likewisepretty plenty of Wild Fowl, such as Shags, Ducks, Curlews, and a Blackbird, about as big as a Crow, with a long, sharp bill of a Colour betweenRed and Yellow; we also saw fish in the River, but of what sort I knownot. The Country especially on the East side is barren, and for the mostpart destitute of wood, or any other signs of Fertility; but the face ofthe country on the other side looked much better, and is in many placescover'd with wood. We meet with some of the Natives and saw several more,and Smokes a long way inland, but saw not the least signs of Cultivation,either here or in any other part about the Bay, so that the inhabitantsmust live wholy on shell and other fish, and Fern roots, which they Eatby the way of Bread. In the Entrance of this river, and for 2 or 3 Milesup, it is very safe and Commodious Anchoring in 3, 4, and 5 fathoms, andConvenient places for laying a Ship aShore, where the Tide rises andfalls about 7 feet at full and Change. I could not see whether or no anyconsiderable fresh Water Stream came out of the Country into this river,but there are a number of small Rivulets which come from the Adjacenthills. [Pahs in Mercury Bay, New Zealand.] A little within the Entranceof the River on the East side is a high point or peninsula juting outinto the River on which are the Remains of one of their Fortified towns.The Situation is such that the best Engineer in Europe could not haveChose a better for a Small Number of men to defend themselves against agreater; it is strong by Nature and made more so by Art. It is onlyAccessible on the land Side, and there have been cut a Ditch and a Bankraised on the inside. From the Top of the Bank to the Bottom of the Ditchwas about 22 feet, and depth of the Ditch on the land side 14 feet; itsbreadth was in proportion to its depth, and the whole seem'd to have beendone with great Judgment. There had been a row of Pickets on the Top ofthe Bank, and another on the outside of the Ditch; these last had beenset deep in the ground and Sloping with their upper ends hanging over theDitch. The whole had been burnt down, so that it is probable that thisplace had been taken and destroy'd by an Enemy. The people on this sideof the Bay seem now to have no houses or fix'd habitations, but Sleep inthe open Air, under Trees and in small Temporary shades; but to allappearance they are better off on the other side, but there we have notset foot. In the morning, being dirty rainy weather, I did not Expect anyof the Natives off with fish, but thinking that they might have someashore I sent a Boat with some Trade, who return'd about noon loaded withOysters, which they got in the River which is abreast of the Ship, butsaw no fish among the Natives.

Sunday, 12th. P.M. had Strong Gales at North-East, and hazey, rainyweather; A.M. a fresh breeze at North-West, and Clear weather. In themorning got on board a Turn of Water, and afterwards sent the Long boatinto the River for Oysters to take to sea with us; and I went with thePinnace and Yawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, over to theNorth side of the Bay in order to take a View of the Country and theFortified Village which stands there. We landed about a mile from it, andwere meet by the inhabitants in our way thither, who, with a great dealof good nature and friendship, conducted us into the place and shew'd useverything that was there.

This village is built upon a high Promontory or point on the North sideand near the head of the Bay. It is in some places quite inaccessible toman, and in others very difficult, except on that side which faced thenarrow ridge of the hill on which it stands. Here it is defended by adouble ditch, a bank and 2 rows of Picketing, the inner row upon theBank; but not so near the Crown but what there was good room for men toWalk and handle their Arms between the Picketing and the inner Ditch. Theouter Picketing was between the 2 Ditches, and laid sloping with theirupper ends hanging over the inner Ditch. The Depth of this Ditch from thebottom to the Crown of the bank was 24 feet. Close within the innerPlcketing was erected by strong Posts a stage 30 feet high and 40 inlength and 6 feet broad. The use of this stage was to stand upon to throwDarts at the Assailants, and a number of Darts lay upon it for thatpurpose. At right angles to this Stage and a few paces from it wasanother of the same Construction and bigness; this stood likewise withinthe Picketing, and was intended for the same use as the other--viz., tostand upon to throw stones and darts upon the Enemy as they advanc'd upthe side of the Hill where lay the Main way into the place. It likewisemight be intended to defend some little outworks and hutts that lay atthe Skirts and on this side of the Hill. These outworks were not intendedas advanced Posts, but for such of the Inhabitants to live in as had notroom in the Main works, but had taken Shelter under it. Besides the workson the land side, above described, the whole Villiage was Pallisadedround with a line of pretty strong Picketing run round the Edge of thehill. The ground within having not been level at first, but laid Sloping,they had divided it into little squares and Leveled each of these. Thesesquares lay in the form of an Amphitheatre, and were each of themPallisaded round, and had communication one with another by narrow lanesand little gateways, which could easily be stoped up, so that if an Enemyhad forced the outer Picketing he had several others to incounter beforethe place could be easily reduced, supposing them to defend everyone ofthe places one after another. The main way leading into thisfortification was up a very steep part of the Hill and thro' a narrowpassage about 12 feet long and under one of the Stages. I saw no door norgate, but it might very soon have been barricaded up. Upon the whole Ilooked upon it to be very strong and well choose Post, and where a smallnumber of resolute men might defend themselves a long time against a vastsuperior force, Arm'd in the manner as these People are. These seem'd tobe prepared against a Siege, having laid up in store an immense quantityof Fern roots and a good many dry'd fish; but we did not see that theyhad any fresh Water nearer than a brook which runs close under the footof a hill, from which I suppose they can at times get water, tho'besiged, and keep it in gouards until they use it. Under the foot of thepoint on which the Village stands are 2 Rocks, the one just broke offfrom the Main and other detatched a little from it. They are both verysmall, and more fit for Birds to inhabit than men; yet there are housesand places of defence on each of them, and about a Mile to Eastward ofthese is another of these small Fortified rocks, which communicates withthe Main by a Narrow pathway, where there is a small Villiage of theNatives. Many works of this kind we have seen upon small Islands andRocks and Ridges of hills on all parts of the Coast, besides a greatnumber of Fortified towns, to all appearances Vastly superior to this Ihave described. From this it should seem that the People must have longand frequent Warrs, and must have been long accustomed to it, otherwisethey never would have invented such strong holds as these, the Erectingof which must cost them immense labour, considering the Tools they haveto work with, which are only made of Wood and Stone. It is a littlestrange that with such a Warlike People, as these undoubtedly are, noOmissive weapons are found among them, such as bows and Arrows, Slings,etc., things in themselves so easily invented, and are common in everyother part of the world. The Arms they use are long spears or Lances, aStaff about 5 feet long. Some of these are pointed at one end like aSerjeant's Halberd, others are round and Sharp; the other ends are broad,something like the blade of an Oar. They have another sort about 4 1/2feet long; these are shaped at one End like an Axe, and the other is madewith a Sharp point. They have short Truncheons about a foot long, whichthey call Pattoo Pattoas; some made of wood, some of bone, and others ofStone. Those made of wood are Variously shaped, but those made of boneand Stone are of one shape, which is with a round handle, a broadishblade, which is thickest in the Middle and taper'd to an Edge all round.The use of these are to knock Men's brains out, and to kill them outrightafter they are wounded; and they are certainly well contrived things forthis purpose. Besides these Weapons they Throw stones and Darts; theDarts are 10 or 12 feet long, are made of hard wood, and are barbed atone end. They handle all their Arms with great Agility, particularlytheir long Pikes or Lances, against which we have no weapon that is anequal match except a Loaded Musquet.

Monday, 13th. P.M., Gentle Breezes at North-West and Clear weather. Aftertaking a Slight View of the Country and Loaded both boats with Sellery,which we found in Great plenty near the Sea beach, we return'd on boardabout 5 o'Clock. The Long boat at the same time return'd out of the RiverLoaded as deep as she could swim with Oysters. And now I intended to putto Sea in the morning if wind and weather will permit. In the night hadthe wind at South-East, with rainy, dirty, hazey weather, which continuedall day, so that I could not think of Sailing, but thought myself veryhappy in being in a good Port. Samuel Jones, Seaman, having been confin'dsince Saturday last for refusing to come upon deck when all hands werecalled, and afterwards refused to Comply with the orders of the officerson deck, he was this morning punished with 12 lashes and remited back toconfinement.

Tuesday, 14th. Fresh Gales, Easterly, and rainy, Dirty weather.

Wednesday, 15th. In the evening I went in the Pinnace and landed upon oneof the Islands that lies off of the South Head of the Bay, with a view tosee if I could discover any sunken rocks or other Dangers lying beforethe Entrance of the Bay, as there was a pretty large swell at this Time.The Island we landed upon was very small, yet there were upon it aVillage, the inhabitants of which received us very friendly. This littleVillage was laid out in small Oblong squares, and each pailisaded round.The Island afforded no fresh Water, and was only accessible on one side:from this I concluded that it was not choose for any Conveniency it couldafford them, but for its Natural Strength.

[Sail from Mercury Bay, New Zealand.]

At 7 A.M. weigh'd, with a light breeze at West, and clear weather, andmade Sail out of the Bay, steering North-East, for the Northermost of aNumber of Islands lying off the North point of the Bay. These Islands areof Various extents, and lye Scattered to the North-West in a paralleldirection with the Main as far as we could see. I was at first afraid togo within them, thinking that there was no safe Passage, but I afterwardsthought that we might; and I would have attempted it, but the wind,coming to the North-West, prevented it, so that we were obliged to standout to Sea. At Noon was in the Latitude of 36 degrees 4 minutes South.The Northermost Island, above mentioned, bore North, distant half aLeague; the Court of Aldermen, South-East by South, distant 6 Leagues;and the Bay Sail'd from, which I have named Mercury Bay, on account ofthe observation being made there, South-West by West, distant 6 Miles.

Mercury Bay* (* At the head of Mercury Bay is a small settlement calledWhitianga.) lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 47 minutes South, and theLongitude of 184 degrees 4 minutes West, from the Meridian of Greenwich.It lies in South-West between 2 and 3 Leagues. There are several Islandslying both to the Southward and Northward of it, and a Small high Islandor Rock in the Middle of the Entrance. Within this Island the depth ofwater doth no were Exceed 9 or 8 fathoms; the best Anchorage is in asandy Bay which lies just within the South head in 5 and 4 fathoms,bringing a high Tower Rock, which lies without the head, in one with thehead, or just shut in behind it. Here it is very Convenient Wooding andWatering, and in the River are an immense quantity of Oysters and othersmall Shell fish; and this is the only thing it is remarkable for, andhath occasioned my giving it the Name of Oyster River. But the Snugestand Safest place for a Ship to lay in that wants to stay there any timeis in the River at the head of the Bay, and where there is everyconveniency the place can afford. To sail up and into it keep the Southshore all the way on board. As we did not learn that the Natives had anyname for this River, I have called it the River of Mangroves,* (* Stillso called.) because of the great quantity of these Trees that are foundin it. The Country on the South-East side of this River and Bay is verybarren, producing little else but Fern, and such other plants as delightin a Poor Soil. The land on the North-West side is pretty well cover'dwith wood, the Soil more fertile, and would no doubt produce theNecessarys of Life, was it Cultivated. However, this much must be saidagainst it, that it is not near so Rich nor fertile as the lands we haveseen to the Southward; and the same may be said of its inhabitants, who,although pretty numerous, are poor to the highest degree when Compar'd toothers we have seen. They have no Plantations, but live only on Fernroots and fish; their Canoes are mean, and without ornament, and so aretheir Houses, or Hutts, and in general everything they have about them.This may be owing to the frequent wars in which they are Certainlyingaged; strong proofs of this we have seen, for the people who residednear the place where we wooded, and who Slept every night in the OpenAir, placed themselves in such a manner when they laid down to sleep asplainly shew'd that it was necessary for them to be always upon theirGuard. They do not own Subjection to Teeratie, the Earadehi,* (* Cook didnot realize that the New Zealanders were divided into independenttribes.) but say that he would kill them was he to come Among them; theyconfirm the Custom of Eating their Enemies, so that this is a thing nolonger to be doubted. I have before observed that many of the Peopleabout this bay had no fix'd habitations, and we thought so then, but havesince learnt that they have strong holds--or Hippas, as they callthem--which they retire to in time of danger.

We found, thrown upon the Shore in several places in this Bay, a quantityof Iron Sand, which is brought down out of the Country by almost everylittle fresh-water brook. This proves that there must be of that Ore notfar inland. Neither of the Inhabitants of this Place, nor any other wherewe have been, know the use of Iron or set the least Value upon it,preferring the most Trifling thing we could give them to a Nail, or anysort of Iron Tools. Before we left this bay we cut out upon one of theTrees near the Watering Place the Ship's Name, date, etc., and, afterdisplaying the English Colours, I took formal possession of the place inthe Name of His Majesty.

[Off Cape Colville, North Island, New Zealand.]

Thursday, 16th. Fresh breezes between the North-West and South-West, andfair weather. At 1 P.M., having got within the Group of Islands whichlies of the North head of Mercury Bay, hauld our wind to the Northward,and Kept plying to windward all the day between these Islands and someothers laying to the Northward of them, with a View to get under the Mainland, the Extream North-West point of which we could see, at Noon, boreWest by North, distant 6 or 8 Leagues; Latitude in Per Observation 36degrees 33 minutes South.

Note, in speaking of Mercury Bay, I had forgot to mention that theMangrove Trees found there produce a resinous substance very much likeRosin. Something of this kind, I am told, is found in both the East andWest Indies. We found it, at first, in small Lumps upon the Sea Beach,but afterwards found it sticking to the Mangrove Trees, and by that meansfound out from whence it came.

Friday, 17th. The fore and Middle parts had fresh Gales between theSouth-West and West by South, and Squally. Kept plying to windward inorder to get under the land. At 6 A.M. fetched close under the lee of theNorthernmost Island in sight, then Tackd and Stood to the Southward until11, when we tack'd and Stood to the Northward. At this time the Northhead of Mercury Bay, or Point Mercury, bore South-East by East, distant 3Leagues, being at this time between 2 and 3 Leagues from the Main land,and abreast of a place where there appear'd to be a Harbour;* (* ProbablyWaikawau Bay) but the heavy squalls which we had from the Land would notpermit us to take a nearer View of it, but soon brought us under ourClose reeft Topsails. At Noon Point Mercury bore South-East, distant 4Leagues, and the weathermost point of the Main land in sight bore North60 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Over the North-West side of MercuryBay is a pretty high round hill, rising sloping from the Shore of theBay. This hill is very conspicuous from where we now are.

Saturday, 18th. First part strong Gales at South-West andSouth-South-West, with heavy squalls: in the morning had Gentle breezesat South and South-East, towards noon had Whifling light Airs all roundthe Compass. Kept plying to windward under close Reeft Topsails untildaylight, at which time we had got close under the Main, and the windcoming at South-East we made sail and steer'd North-West by West, as theland lays, keeping close in shore. At 6 we passed a small Bay* (* CharlesCove.) wherein there appear'd to be Anchorage, and pretty good Shelterfrom the Sea Winds, at the Entrance of which lies a Rock pretty highabove water. 4 Miles farther to the West-North-West is a very Conspicuouspromontory or point of land which we got abreast of about 7 o'Clock; itlies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 26 minutes South and North 48 degreesWest, 9 Leagues from Point Mercury. From this point the Land trends West1/2 South near one League, then South-South-East as far as we could see.Besides the Islands laying without us we could see land round by theSouth-West as far as North-West, but whether this was the Main or Islandswas not possible for us at this Time to determine; the fear of loosingthe Main land determin'd me to follow its direction. With this View wehauld round the point* (* Cape Colville.) and Steer'd to the Southward,but meeting with Whifling light Airs all round the Compass, we made butlittle progress untill noon, when we found ourselves by Observation inthe Latitude of 36 degrees 29 minutes South; a small Island* (* ChannelIsland.) which lays North-West 4 Miles from the Promontoryabove-mentioned bore North by East, distant 6 1/2 Miles, being at thistime about 2 Miles from the Shore. While we lay under the land 2 largeCanoes came off to us; in one of them were 62 people; they staid about ussome time, then began to throw stones into the Ship, upon which I fir'd aMusquet ball thro' one of the Canoes. After this they retir'd ashore.

Sunday, 19th. At 1 p.m. a breeze sprung up at East, which afterwards cameto North-East, and with it we steer'd along shore South by East andSouth-South-East, having from 25 to 18 fathoms Water. At 1/2 past 7,having run 7 or 8 Leagues since Noon, we Anchor'd in 23 fathoms, notchoosing to run any farther in the Dark, having the land on both sides ofus forming the Entrance of a Streight, Bay or River, lying in South byEast, for on that point of the Compass we could see no land. At daylightA.M., the wind being still favourable, we weighed and run under an Easysail up the inlet, keeping nearest the East side. Soon after we had gotunder Sail 3 large Canoes came off to the Ship, and several of the peoplecame on board upon the very first invitation; this was owing to theirhaving heard of our being upon the Coast and the manner we had treatedthe Natives. I made each of those that came on board a small present, andafter about an Hour's stay they went away well Satisfied. After havingrun 5 Leagues from the place where we Anchor'd last night our Depth ofWater gradually decreased to 6 fathoms, and into less I did not choose togo, and as the wind blew right up the inlet and tide of flood, we came toan Anchor nearly in the middle of the Channell, which is here about 11Miles over, and after this sent 2 Boats to sound, the one on one side andthe other on the other side.

[At Frith of Thames, North Island, New Zealand.]

Monday, 20th. Moderate breezes at South-South-East and fair weather. At 2p.m. the boats return'd from sounding, not having found above 3 feet morewater than were we now lay; upon this I resolved to go no farther withthe Ship but to examine the head of the Bay in the Boat, for as itappeard to run a good way inland, I thought this a good opportunity tosee a little of the interior part of the Country and its produce.Accordingly at daylight in the morning I set out with the Pinnace andLong boat accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia. We found theinlet end in a River, about 9 miles above the Ship, into which we Enter'dwith the first of the flood, and before we had gone 3 Miles up it foundthe Water quite fresh. We saw a number of Natives and landed at one oftheir Villages, the inhabitants of which received us with open Arms. Wemade but a Short stay with them but proceeded up the river until nearNoon, when finding the face of the country to continue pretty much thesame, and no alteration in the Course or stream of the River or the leastprobability of seeing the end of it, we landed on the West side in orderto take a View of the lofty Trees which Adorn its banks, being at thistime 12 or 14 Miles within the Entrance, and here the Tide of Flood runsas strong as it does in the River Thames below bridge.

Tuesday, 21st. After Landing as above-mention'd, we had not gone ahundred yards into the woods before we found a Tree that girted 19 feet 8inches, 6 feet above the ground, and having a Quadrant with me, I foundits length from the root to the first branch to be 89 feet; it was asStreight as an Arrow and Taper'd but very little in proportion to itslength, so that I judged that there was 356 Solid feet of timber in thisTree, clear of the branches. We saw many others of the same sort, severalof which were Taller than the one we measured, and all of them verystout; there were likewise many other sorts of very Stout Timber Trees,all of them wholy unknown to any of us. We brought away a few specimens,and at 3 o'Clock we embarqued in order to return (but not before we hadnamed this river the Thames,* (* The flourishing town of Thames nowstands at the eastern entrance of the river: population nearly 5000. Goldis found in the vicinity.) on account of its bearing some resemblance tothat River in England) on board with the very first of the Ebb. In ourreturn down the river, the inhabitants of the Village where we landed ingoing, seeing that we return'd by another Channell, put off in theirCanoes and met us and Trafficked with us in the most friendly mannerimmaginable, until they had disposed of the few Trifles they had. Thetide of Ebb just carried us out of the narrow part of the River into theSea reach, as I may call it, where meeting with the flood and a Strongbreeze at North-North-West obliged us to come to a Grapnel, and we didnot reach the Ship until 7 o'Clock in the A.M. Intending to get underSail at high water the Long boat was sent to take up the Kedge Anchor,but it blow'd so strong that she could not reach the Buoy, and the galeincreasing soon obliged us to vear away more Cable and Strike Top GallantYards.

Wednesday, 22nd. Winds at North-North-West. The A.M. fresh Gales andhazey with rain; the remainder, moderate and Clear. At 3 p.m. the Tide ofEbb making, we took up our Anchors and got under Sail and ply'd down theRiver until 8 o'Clock, when we again came to an Anchor in 7 fathoms,muddy bottom. At 3 a.m. weigh'd with the first of the Ebb and keeptplying until the flood obliged us to anchor again. After this I went inthe Pinnace over to the Western Shore, but found there neitherinhabitants or anything else worthy of Note. At the time I left the Shipa good many of the Natives were alongside and on board Trafficking withour people for such Trifles as they had, and seem'd to behave as well aspeople could do, but one of them took the 1/2 hour glass out of theBittacle, and was caught in the very fact, and for which Mr. Hicks, whowas Commanding Officer, brought him to the Gangway and gave him a Dozenlashes with a Catt of nine Tails. The rest of the people seem'd notdispleased at it when they came to know what it was for, and some old manbeat the fellow after he had got into his Canoe; however, soon after thisthey all went away.

Thursday, 23rd. P.M. Gentle breezes at North-North-West and fair weather.Between 3 and 4 o'Clock got under Sail with the first of the Ebb andply'd to windward until 9 when we anchor'd in 16 fathoms over upon theEast shore. In the night had light Airs and Calm; at 3 A.M. weighed buthad little or no wind until near noon, when a light breeze sprung up atNorth-North-West. At this time we were close under the West shore in 7fathoms Water; Latitude 36 degrees 51 minutes South.

[Description of Frith of Thames, New Zealand.]

Friday, 24th. P.M., Fresh Gales and dark, Cloudy, squally weather, withThunder, Lightning, and rain. Winds from the North-West to theSouth-West, and this last carried us by 7 o'Clock without the North-Westpoint of the River, but the weather being bad and having land on allsides of us, and a Dark night coming on, I thought it most adviseable toTack and stretch in under ye Point where we Anchor'd in 19 fathoms. At 5a.m. weighed and made Sail to the North-West under our Courses and doubleReef'd Topsails, the wind being at South-West by West andWest-South-West, a strong Gale and Squally blowing right off the land,which would not permit us to come near it, so that from the time of ourgetting under Sail until' Noon (during which time we ran 12 Leagues) wehad but a slight and distant View of the Coast and was not able todistinguish wether the points we saw were parts of the Main or Islandslaying before it, for we never once lost sight of the Main Land.* (* TheEndeavour was now in Hauraki Gulf and had passed the harbour whereAuckland now stands, which is hidden behind a number of islands.) At noonour Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 15 minutes 20 seconds South,being at this time not above 2 Miles from a Point of Land on the Main and3 1/2 Leagues from a very high Island* (* Little Barrier Island, now(1892) about to be made a reserve to protect native fauna.) which boreNorth-East by East of us; in this Situation had 26 fathoms Water. Thefarthest point we could see on the Main bore from us North-West, but wecould see several small Islands laying to the Northward of thatdirection. The point of land we are now abreast off, I take to be theNorth-West Extremity of the River Thames, for I shall comprehend underthat Name the Deep Bay we have been in for this week past, the North-Eastpoint of which is the Promontory we past on Saturday morning last, andwhich I have named Cape Colvill in honour of the Right hon'ble the LordColvill;* (* Cook had served under Rear Admiral Lord Colville inNewfoundland.) Latitude 36 degrees 26 minutes South; Longitude 184degrees 27 minutes West. It rises directly from the Sea to a Considerableheight, but what makes it most remarkable is a high Rock standing closeto the pitch of the point, and from some points of view may bedistinguished at a very great distance. From the South-West point of thisCape the river Extends itself in a direct line South by East, and is nowhere less than 3 Leagues broad until' you are 14 Leagues above the Cape,there it is at once Contracted to a Narrow stream. From this place itstill continues the same South by East Course thro' a low flat Country orbroad Valley that lies Parrallel with the Sea Coast, the End of which wecould not see. The land on the East side of the Broadest part of thisriver is Tollerable high and hilly, that on the West side is rather low,but the whole is cover'd with woods and Verdure and looks to be prettyfertile, but we saw but a few small places that were Cultivated. Aboutthe Entrance of the narrow part of the River the land is mostly Cover'dwith Mangroves and other Shrubs, but farther in are immense woods of asstout lofty timber as is to be found perhaps in any other part of theworld. In many places the woods grow close upon the very banks of theRiver, but where it does not the land is Marshey such as we find aboutthe Thames in England. We saw poles stuck up in many places in the Riverto set nets for Catching of fish; from this we immagin'd that there mustbe plenty of fish, but of what sort we know not for we saw none. TheGreatest Depth of Water we found was 26 fathoms and decreaseth prettygradually as you run up to 1 1/2 and 1 fathom. In the mouth of thefresh-water Stream or narrow part is 3 and 4 fathoms, but before this aresand banks and large flatts; Yet, I believe, a Ship of a Moderate draughtof Water may go a long way up this River with a flowing Tide, for Ireckon that the Tides rise upon a perpendicular near 10 feet, and is highwater at the full and Change of the Moon about 9 o'Clock. Six Leagueswithin Cape Colvill, under the Eastern Shore, are several small Islands,these Islands together with the Main seem'd to form some good Harbours.*(* Coromandel Harbour.) Opposite to these Islands under the Western Shorelies some other Islands, and it appear'd very probable that these form'dsome good Harbours likewise.* (* Auckland Harbour is one of them.) Buteven supposing there were no Harbours about this River, it is goodanchoring in every part of it where the depth of Water is Sufficient,being defended from the Sea by a Chain of Large and Small Islands which Ihave named Barrier Isles, lying aCross the Mouth of it extendingthemselves North-West and South-East 10 Leagues. The South end of theseIslands lies North-East 4 1/2 Leagues from the North-West point of theRiver, which I have named point Rodney; it lies West-North-West 9 leaguesfrom Cape Colvill, Latitude 36 degrees 15 minutes; Longitude 184 degrees58 minutes West. The Natives residing about this River do not appear tobe very numerous considering the great Extent of Country; at least notmany came off to the Ship at one Time, and as we were but little ashoreourselves we could not so well judge of their numbers. They are a Strong,well made, active People as any we have seen yet, and all of them Painttheir Bodys with Red Oker and Oil from Head to foot, a thing that we havenot seen before. Their Canoes are large, well built and Ornamented withCarved work in general as well as most we have seen.

Saturday, 25th. P.M., had fresh Gales at South-West, and Squally weather.We kept standing along Shore to the North-West, having the Main land onthe one side and Islands on the other; our Soundings were from 26 to 12fathoms. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. we Anchor'd in a Bay in 14 fathoms, sandybottom. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than we caught between 90 and100 Bream (a fish so called), this occasioned my giving this place theName of Bream Bay.* (* Whangarei Bay.) The 2 points which forms this Baylie North and South 5 Leagues from each other. The Bay is every wherepretty broad and between 3 and 4 Leagues deep; at the bottom of it theirappears to be a fresh water River.* (* Whangarei River. The district isvery fertile. Coal mines are in the vicinity, and coal is exported.) TheNorth head of the Bay, called Bream head, is high land and remarkable onaccount of several peaked rocks ranged in order upon the top of it; itlies in the Latitude 35 degrees 46 minutes South and North 41 degreesWest, distant 17 1/2 Leagues from Cape Colvill. This Bay may likewise beknown by some Small Islands lying before it called the Hen and Chickens,one of which is pretty high and terminates at Top in 2 peaks. The landbetween Point Rodney and Bream Head, which is 10 Leagues, is low andwooded in Turfs, and between the Sea and the firm land are white sandbanks. We saw no inhabitants but saw fires in the Night, a proof that theCountry is not uninhabited. At daylight A.M. we left the Bay and directedour Course along shore to the northward, having a Gentle breeze at Southby West and Clear weather. A little after sunrise found the Variation tobe 12 degrees 42 minutes Easterly. At Noon, our Latitude by observationwas 36 degrees 36 minutes South; Bream head bore South distant 10 Miles;some small Islands (Poor Knights) at North-East by North distant 3Leagues, and the Northermost land in sight bore North-North-West, beingat this Time 2 miles from the Shore, and in this Situation had 26fathoms; the land here about is rather low and pretty well cover'd withwood and seems not ill inhabited.

[Off Cape Brett, North Island, New Zealand.]

Sunday, 26th. P.M., Gentle breezes between the East-North-East and North,kept ranging along shore to the Northward. At the distance of 4 or 5Miles off saw several Villages and some Cultivated lands; towards eveningseveral Canoes came off to us, and some of the Natives ventur'd on board;to 2, who appear'd to be Chiefs, I gave presents. After these were goneout of the Ship, the others became so Troublesome that in order to getrid of them we were at the expence of 2 or 3 Musquet Balls, and one 4pound Shott, but as no harm was intended them, none they received, unlessthey hapned to over heat themselves in pulling on shore. In the Night hadvariable light Airs, but towards morning had a light breeze at South, andafterward at South-East; with this we proceeded slowly to the Northward.At 6 a.m. several Canoes came off from the place where they landed lastnight, and between this and noon many more came from other parts. Had atone time a good many of the people on board, and about 170 alongside;their behaviour was Tolerable friendly, but we could not prevail uponthem to Traffic with us. At noon, the Mainland Extending from South byEast to North-West by West; a remarkable point of land bore West, distant4 or 5 miles. Latitude Observed 35 degrees 11 minutes South.

Monday, 27th. P.M., Gentle breezes Easterly, and Clear weather. At 3passed the point of land afore-mentioned, which I have named Cape Brettin honour of Sir Piercy.* (* Rear Admiral Sir Piercey Brett was one ofthe Lords of the Admiralty when the Endeavour sailed.) The land of thisCape is considerable higher than any part of the Adjacent Coast. At thevery point of the Cape is a high round Hillock, and North-East by North,near one Mile from this is a small high Island or Rock with a holepierced thro' it like the Arch of a Bridge, and this was one reason why Igave the Cape the above name, because Piercy seem'd very proper for thatof the Island. This Cape, or at least some part of it, is called by theNatives Motugogogo; Latitude 35 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds South,Longitude 185 degrees 25 minutes West. On the West side of Cape Brett isa large and pretty deep Bay* (* The Bay of Islands.) lying in South-Westby West, in which there appear'd to be several small Islands. The pointthat forms the North-West entrance I have named Point Pocock; it liesWest 1/4 North, 3 or 4 Leagues from Cape Brett. On the South-West side ofthis Bay we saw several Villages situated both on Islands and on the Mainland, from whence came off to us several large Canoes full of People,but, like those that had been alongside before, would not Enter into afriendly Traffick with us, but would Cheat whenever they had anopportunity. The people in these Canoes made a very good appearance,being all stout well-made men, having their Hair--which was black--comb'dup and tied upon the Crown of their heads, and there stuck with whitefeathers; in each of the Canoes were 2 or 3 Chiefs, and the Habits ofthese were rather superior to any we had yet seen. The Cloth they worewas of the best sort, and cover'd on the outside with Dog Skins put on insuch a manner as to look Agreeable enough to the Eye. Few of these peoplewere Tattow'd or marked in the face, like those we have seen farther tothe South, but several had their Backsides Tattow'd much in the samemanner as the inhabitants of the Islands within the Tropics. In theCourse of this day, that is this afternoon and Yesterday forenoon, wereckoned that we had not less than 400 or 500 of the Natives alongsideand on board the ship, and in that time did not range above 6 or 8Leagues of the Sea Coast, a strong proof that this part of the Countrymust be well inhabited. In the Evening, the Wind came to the Westward ofNorth, and we Tack'd and stood off North-East until 11 o'Clock, when thewind coming more favourable we stood again to the Westward. At 8 a.m wewere within a Mile of Groups of Islands lying close under the Mainlandand North-West by West 1/2 West, distance 22 Miles from Cape Brett. Herewe lay for near 2 Hours, having little or no wind. During this timeseveral Canoes came off to the Ship, and 2 or 3 of them sold us somefish--Cavallys as they are called--which occasioned my giving the Islandsthe same name. After this some others began to Pelt us with Stones, andwould not desist at the firing of 2 Musquet Balls thro' one of theirBoats; at last I was obliged to pepper 2 or 3 fellows with small Shott,after which they retir'd, and the wind coming at North-West we stood offto Sea. At Noon, Cavally Islands bore South-West by South, distant 4Miles; Cape Brett South-East, distant 7 Leagues, and the Westermost landin sight, making like Islands, bore West by North; Latitude in perObservation 34 degrees 55 minutes South.

Tuesday, 28th. A Fresh breeze from the Westward all this day, which beingright in our teeth, we kept beating to windward with all the sail wecould Crowd, but instead of Gaining we lost ground. A.M., being close inwith the land to the Westward of the Bay, which lies on this side of CapeBrett, we saw at some distance inland 2 pretty large Villages Pallisadedin the same manner as others we have seen. At noon, Cape Brett South-Eastby East 1/2 East, distant 6 Leagues; Latitude observed 35 degrees 0minutes South.

[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand.]

Wednesday, 29th. Fresh Gales at North-West and West-North-West, keptplying to Windward until 7 A.M., and finding that we lost ground everyboard we made, I thought I could not do better than to bear up for theBay, which lies to the Westward of Cape Brett, it being at this Time notabove 2 Leagues to Leeward of us, for by putting in there we should gain