Walked up via Lake Eleanor and Shimmy Lake to the divide of Lilypad Lake and then followed the ridge to the summit. Watched huge cloud of smoke rise over the town of Lewiston to the south. Found out later CDF was conducting a controled burn for star thistle, but high winds swept the fire towards town destroying a number of buildings and houses.

Having been frustrated with the marginal WA weather decided to head down to sunny CA with jtschanz . With the inside information about the climb from rpc we got to the TH easily though very late at night. Next day after a 3 hour approach we started the technical part at noon. It might have been a bit early in the season because the mountain was still melting out turning the cracks into little creeks. Higher up we ran into snow which slowed us down and we had to improvise in finding a route up. Started getting nervous because it was getting late and we were still meandering around steep snow. Finally got to the summit at 7pm. Spent just enough time to sign the log, first one in 2004, and coil the ropes and headed down the west ridge. The downclimb was also exciting as we were in a hurry but slowed down by slippery rocks and never ending traverse. The bottom of the mountain has some serious boulder fields and brush which was still covered by snow but repeatedly gave in with each step I took. Hiked out in the dark and were at the cars at 10:30pm . What an adventure!

Haydar and I escaped the cloudy NW weather by driving to California, and we met my sister Kathy in Trinity Center. The weather was perfect for climbing and most of the approach was snow-free. There was some snow on the route, however, which made the upper pitches difficult. We ended up winding around quite a bit near the top to avoid the snow, getting off route and using valuable time. We finally summited a bit before 7pm and admired the view for only a few minutes before starting the descent. Descending the mountain seemed to take forever, compounded by the fading daylight and the wet, slippery, and loose rock. We finally made it back down to the snow-covered boulders, and found the trail just as darkness fell. Hiked out by headlamp on a cool starry night. Trip report to follow, maybe ...

Tim Baxter and I had a fairly challenging day (rope got stuck and rained on). Almost bailed on pitch 7 but pressed on. Skies cleared long enough for us to finish. Couldn't find the summit register. Oh, well....quality route on an exciting peak.

In an attempt to escape a very questionable looking weather forecast for OR and WA, Jeff and Jay joined my wife and me for a little quick jaunt into the sunny hills of northern California. We've been wanting to try this one ever since we saw it in the guidebook. Originally thought about climbing Orion (III, 5.7) but due to a late arrival at trailhead (4am Saturday), we were too lazy to get a sufficiently early start for this 14-pitch route. Instead decided to do Sleepwalk (II, 5.5) with approx. 6 pitches of climbing. The route was very easy - largely 3rd and 4th class (though exposed) with a few low fifth class moves sprinkled in - but given the exposure we stayed roped all the way to the summit. Ended up doing about 9 pitches including two or three simul-climb pitches. The summit was excellent with a view of the very dry Mt. Shasta dominating the skyline. Decided to take a little shortcut on the way down through what looked like a meadown from up above (alternative was scrambling a boulder field with boulders the size of pick up trucks).....the "meadow" turned out to be the same boulder field except covered up in extremely thick "bushes" about 15 feet tall. The flora was INCREDIBLY dense and it was dark by that time....you'd take a step and find yourself plunging eight feet down since without realizing it, you've just stepped off the edge of a huge boulder. Pace was about 6 feet per minute. After wondering thru. this "meadow" for an hour and not being able to "punch through" to the other side, we finally managed to double back. By far the wildest bushwhack I've had the pleasure of "whacking" (see photo).