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First impressions as we arrived: a bit scary but genuine with mud huts and rammed dung floors in a local families back yard, complete with cows, looms and a sense of peace and quiet. One of the huts even had a calf in it sheltering from the sun.

First impressions of this holy city, is that it is a cross between the mountains of Crete and all the images we have ever seen of Afghanistan with a healthy dose of rubbish thrown in. Cows and men with shotguns wander around in the dusty heat, combined with the sun bleached signs and debris rendering the outskirts a certain frontierland feel. In the town it is given over to tie-dyes and all manner of leather products aimed at tourists.

Crash Bang Wallop. We certainly came back down to earth with a bang! Arriving at New Delhi station at 8.30am and straight into the thick of taxi and hawker hell. We had our hotel address ready, and we had looked on Google to check where we were staying. Turns out that the map was wrong and no taxi driver was prepared to take us to the address we had.