Winning modern Korean fare at Dosi

December 9, 2014 10:32 PM

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With its pewtery tones and sleek cove lighting, Dosi looks more like a high-end club than a typical Houston Korean restaurant. Dosi is careful not to call itself a Korean restaurant on its website. It is "Korean-inspired," as befits a spot with Western chefs doing modern riffs on Korean dishes and themes.

If that enterprise sounds fraught with peril, it turns out otherwise: because handsome and cordial Dosi, which means "city" in Korean, is one of the year's most pleasant surprises. Chefs Jordan Asher and Daniel Toro work deftly in an idiom to which neither was born, fashioning dishes that make inter...