19.5.10

FW AW10: CoverGirl @ Lanvin

CoverGirl @ LanvinWhen describing the models who marched down his Lanvin runway clad in identical black wigs and layers of dark shadow that practically swallowed up their eyes, designer Alber Elbaz said they were like "an army of soldiers." Elbaz is over seeing women trying to conform to one standard type of beauty, and he wanted to show his audience what happens when you take away the models' individuality.

"It’s a mirror to show people what happens when everyone looks alike," said Elbaz of the hair and makeup. "In traveling the world, I’ve noticed that women everywhere now have the same lips, the same eyes, the same skin, the same hair... It scares me to see women all looking alike. I like to see wrinkles, I like to see people who are a little overweight—I like individuality."

To execute his message of extreme conformity, Elbaz relied on makeup artist Pat McGrath and hairstylist Guido to put together a look that was powerful and sexually charged. "It's mannequin-like makeup," said McGrath backstage. "It's sexy, sophisticated, and tough-looking."Get the LookMcGrath zeroed in on the eyes, swirling a thick cloud of black around them using CoverGirl LiquiLine Blast in Black (a new creamy eyeliner launching this summer) and black shadow. Shadows of Bobbi Brown in smoky colours were used. Then she added a glistening finish to the lids and inner corners of eyes with an antique-gold glitter powder. To complete the robotic-esque makeup, she perfected the skin with foundation and powder, then painted the mouth with a pale beige lipstick that she custom-mixed for show.

The shiny, pin-straight black wigs that each model wore came from New York's hip beauty boutique Ricky's. Guido ordered 60 of them flown to Paris the night before the show, then he cut all of them to just below shoulder length and snipped blunt, wide bangs that skimmed each model's eyes.