Step 5: Testing 123

Intro:
If you've got an Arduino Uno and want to start duplicating projects without having to buy an Uno every time... get ready to live! This instructable will show you how to move your projects (that do not require serial communication) onto a breadboard for prototyping or expansion. If you're looking for a more permanent solution check out these (breadboard ) (options ).

Stuff You Should Have Already:
-Arduino Uno & USB cord: You're gonna need this to program the new ATmega328
-Wire Strippers & Leatherman: A must have for wire management
-Solder & Soldering Iron: Great for sticking stuff to other stuff
-22 AWG Wire: Makes this project really difficult if you don't have it

Step 1: The Power Supply

Step/Pic 1: Wire up the bottom of your board so that you will have power on both side rails

Step/Pic 2: Pop these little pieces of wire in, the tags will show you whats coming next

Step/Pic 3: Install your hardware, here are some things to note: the cathode (long leg) of the LED gets plugged into power. Unlike resistors, aluminum electrolytic capacitors have a positive and a negative lead. The leg with the gray strip above it means it is GND, and the longer leg is positive.

-A 10 uF capacitor needs to be tied to PWR and GND before and after the voltage regulator. Make sure the long wire goes to power, and the gray lead goes to GND.
-The LM7805 will straddle the 3 power lines; 9V DC in at the top (pin 1), GND at the middle (pin 2), and 5V DC out at the bottom (pin 3).
-Make sure your resistor is in series with the LED, it keeps the current through the LED from getting too high.

Step/Pic 4: Cut off the plug on the power supply, and solder on a little colored 22 AWG on the ends. The wire with the white strip on it will be PWR, the other is GND.

DANGER! make sure these two leads never touch while the power supply is in your wall. It will probably explode and catch fire, and will definitely burn up your power supply.

Step 5: Once you're sure everything is hooked up correctly, plug in your power supply and your little LED should light up (this is what we want)

<p>Just a note to let you know I have added this ( a year ago ) to the instructable:</p><p> Comprehensive Guide to Electronic Breadboards: A Meta Instructable</p><p>&gt;&gt; <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Comprehensive-Guide-to-Electronic-Breadboards-A-Me/" rel="nofollow"> http://www.instructables.com/id/Comprehensive-Gui...</a></p><p>Take a look at a bunch of ideas for using breadboards.</p>

I want to use Serial Communication with ATMega on breadboard , how do I achieve it ?

<p>Have you found solution to this? May be MAX232?</p>

Great, went together without a hitch, one thing, where are the corresponding Arduino inputs / outputs on the breadboard so I can hookup projects.

you can find the pinout in the ATmega328 data sheet here:&nbsp;<a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/SMD/ATMega328.pdf" rel="nofollow">https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/SMD/ATMega328.pdf</a>&nbsp;or if you look closely at the pictures they are labeled on the chip itself. &quot;D&quot; stands for digital, &quot;A&quot; stands for analog.

What are the corresponding digital and analog pins as related to a Arduino Uno, for example, I want to run a BlinkM on your Arduino breadboard. Also, great tutorial it went together without a hitch.

i just ordered my parts for this, along with some extras, i found some parts to be cheaper at spark-fun instead. However for portability reasons I decided to go with a 9V Battery adapter instead of a wall plug. The batteries I have are rechargeable so they will work nicely. I'll post more when I build the project.

Very nice tutorial . I have an Uno and with the optiboot I wasn't able to load sketches using using another instructible that was similar to this one. <br>I have not tried your method yet , but if I get some spare time I will give it a go! <br>I also like the labels on the pins ...great idea. <br>Thanks! <br>Build_it_Bob

Hey! Nice project. One thing i like to do with my breadboarding is trim the leads of components to around a half inch (maybe a bit under). This makes them flush with the board when inserted, but you have to be careful with components that have to span a greater gap (cut the leads longer). Also it slightly increases the space used by components because you cannot access the holes underneath the components, but it makes them look a lot better (IMO)<br>:)