Otsu (大津市; Otsu-shi) is a city in southern Shiga Prefecture and the prefecture's capital.

One of Shiga's main gateways and adjacent to Kyoto (10 min. by train), Otsu occupies almost the entire southern shore of Lake Biwa. It thus has a very long lakeshore coast. Best known for World Heritage Site temples such as Enryakuji on Mt. Hiei (one of Japan's three most sacred temple mountains) and National Treasures at Ishiyama-dera and Miidera (Onjoji) temples. It also boasts white sand beaches along the western shore and cruises on Lake Biwa.

Otsu, with its Kyoto-influenced temples, convenient transportation links to Kyoto, lake beaches frequented by Kyotoites, and the Lake Biwa Canal supplying water to Kyoto (and Osaka), is almost a satellite or extension of neighboring Kyoto and has never really developed its own unique identity. However, it is an interesting city in its own right with many major places of interest of its own. The main city center is at Hama-Otsu onthe Keihan Line and next to the boat cruise port, shopping mall, and hotels. Most of Otsu's attractions are along the Keihan Line instead of the Tokaido Line. Otsu Station has also been totally renovated and now boasts a great choice of restaurants and a capsule hotel. Here and there in Otsu, you may also see Otsu-e paintings of an ogre or wisteria maiden, one of Shiga's unique art forms.

For the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, Shiga Prefecture and Otsu will be the host town for Denmark's rowing team.

Sights

Enryakuji 延暦寺 - One of the largest temple complexes in Japan, Enryakuji is the headquarters of the Tendai Buddhist sect atop Mt. Hie in Otsu, Shiga Prefecture. The temple was founded by Saicho to protect Kyoto from the demons of the northeast. Mt. Hiei can be called the birthplace of Japanese Buddhism as many founders of Japanese Buddhist sects once trained on Mt. Hiei. The mountain also has the scenic Hie-zan Driveway offering panoramic views of Lake Biwa. Map

Katata Ukimido 堅田 浮御堂 - The Ukimido Floating Temple in Lake Biwa, Katata, Shiga Prefecture is famous as one of the Omi Hakkei (Eight Views of Omi). Today, it is supported by strong concrete pillars instead of wooden stilts of long ago. Map

Ishiyama-dera 石山寺 - Founded in 749, Ishiyama-dera, belonging to the Shingon Buddhist Sect, is the 13th Temple of the Saigoku Pilgrimage. Lady Murasaki Shikibu is said to have written the epic novel, "The Tale of Genji" in a room at this temple. The fall colors are also brilliant. Map

Miidera 三井寺 - Established in the 7th century, Miidera temple, or Onjoji, is one of Otsu's major temples and one of Japan's four largest temples. It is the headquarters temple of the Tendai Jimon Buddhist Sect and former rival of Enryakuji temple on Mt. Hiei. It is a complex of numerous structures including National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties. The temple bell is famous for being one of the Omi Hakkei (Eight Views of Omi) depicted in ukiyoe prints. Cherry blossoms in April are also lit up at night. Map

Omi Jingu 近江神宮 - Dedicated to Emperor Tenji (Tenchi) who moved the capital to Otsu. The shrine holds a karuta card contest in Jan. and yabusame horseback archery on Nov. 3. Also nearby are two Otsu Palace sites in Nishikori where Japan's capital was located for 5 years from 667. Near Keihan Line Omi-Jingu-mae Station. Map

Lake Biwa Canal (Biwako Sosui) 琵琶湖疎水 - Not exactly a tourist attraction except the part where cherry trees are planted, but a vital water link for Kyoto and Osaka which depend on Lake Biwa for its water supply. In April, it is noted for cherry blossoms. Map

Takebe Taisha Shrine - Near the east end of Seta-no-Karahashi Bridge. Holds the Senko-sai Festival in Aug. Map

Top of Otsu - Great views of Otsu and the southern tip of Lake Biwa from the top-floor restaurant in the Otsu Prince Hotel. The city's tallest building. Map

The Museum of Modern Art, Shiga (Shiga-kenritsu Kindai Bijutsu-kan) 滋賀県立近代美術館 - First-class modern art museum in a scenic park. KInd of out of the way, but worth a visit. Map

Event Calendar

April 12-14: Sanno-sai Festival 山王祭 - Held by Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine and one of Shiga Prefecture's largest festivals, the annual Sanno Matsuri is held during April 12-14 and features processions, violent rocking of portable shrines, and a boat procession on Lake Biwa. Map

1st Sun. in June - Omi Jingu Shrine Yabusame, Otsu. Yabusame horseback archery starts with a ceremony at the shrine. On the horse track at the shrine entrance, reserved seating and free standing room are provided to watch a bevy of horseback archers trying to hit targets as they gallop down the track at full speed. Video here

Aug. 17 - Takebe Taisha Senko-sai Festival - One of Otsu's Big Three Festivals, the Senko-sai is a portable shrine procession on boats going down Seta River from Seta-no-Karahashi Bridge to Nango sluice and back. Held annually by Takebe Taisha Shrine near the bridge. The festival starts at 5 pm when the portable shrines leave the shrine, and climaxes with fireworks on Seta River after the boats return at about 8:00 pm. Map

Weekend before second Monday in Oct.: Otsu Matsuri Festival 大津祭 - One of Shiga's major festivals featuring thirteen ornate floats displayed and paraded around central Otsu over two days before Sports Day, a national holiday on the second Mon. in Oct. The first day on Sat. of the festival has the floats parked and displayed on the streets and lit up at night (Yoimiya) with musicians playing. The second day is the festival climax with a procession of all the floats highlighted by performances by karakuri mechanical dolls on the floats. Within walking distance from Otsu Station. One of Shiga's major festivals.

Oct. - Apr.: Shiga Lakestars regular season games are held on weekends. Otsu is home to the Shiga Lakestars pro basketball team in the bj-league. Many of the home games are played at the Shiga Prefectural Gym. For the home game schedule, see their official site (Japanese).

Travel Tips

Otsu is a long city in length. Trains, streetcars, and buses can take you to most places of interest. By train when coming from the east (Maibara, Nagoya, etc.), getting off at Ishiyama Station is convenient since you can transfer to the Keihan Railways streetcar line which runs through the middle of the city all the way to Sakamoto (Mt. Hiei and Enryakuji). The city's major sights are along this streetcar line (Ishiyama-dera, Keihan Zeze, Hama-Otsu, Miidera, Omi Jingu-mae, and Sakamoto). From Otsu Station, which has a tourist info office, you can walk to Hama-Otsu or take a bus to various places. To visit the western side of the city such as Omi-Maiko, go to Yamashina Station in Kyoto or Otsukyo Station to catch the Kosei Line.

Getting There

Otsu's official mascot: Hikaru-kun

Otsu is next to Kyoto, so take the shinkansen bullet train to Kyoto Station, then the Tokaido/Biwako Line train to Otsu Station or Yamashina Station if you will travel on the Kosei Line. From Yamashina Station, you can also transfer to Keihan Yamashina Station to take the Keihan Keishin Line to Hama-Otsu which also connects to the Keihan Ishiyama-Sakamoto Line. In eastern Otsu, Ishiyama Station is another gateway to Otsu where you can transfer to the Keihan Ishiyama-Sakamoto Line.

Getting Around

Otsu has numerous train and streetcar stations as well as bus routes. The major sights and facilties along the train and Keihan Railways streetcar lines are as follows:

JR Tokaido Line
(東海道線・琵琶湖線)

Seta Station (瀬田駅) - By bus, go to the "Bunka Zone" (Culture Zone) that has a Japanese garden, the Shiga Prefectural Library, and the The Museum of Modern Art, Shiga.

Ishiyama Station (石山駅) - Ishiyama-dera Temple is a must-see and the Seta River and Seta Karahashi Bridge are also historic places. Ishiyama is also a Keihan streetcar stop which cuts through Otsu.

Otsu Station (大津駅) - Except for the Shiga Prefectural Government, there's not much near Otsu Station. The lake is within walking distance (around 20 min.), but not recommended if you have heavy luggage. The station building was recently renovated in Oct. 2016 and now has a good choice of restaurants including Starbucks and The Calendar which includes a capsule hotel. The Otsu tourist information center offers free rental bicycles.

History

1890 The Lake Biwa Canal (Biwako Sosui) is completed to feed water from Lake Biwa to Kyoto.

1891 The Otsu Incident occurs on May 11 when Russian Crown Prince Tsarevich Nicholas Alexandrovich (later Tsar Nicholas II) is attacked and wounded in Otsu by a policeman guard named Tsuda Sanzo wielding a saber. Nicholas was on his way back to Kyoto after visiting the Shiga Prefectural Capitol when the attack occurred.

2008 Otsu celebrated the Millennium of the Tale of Genji 源氏物語千年紀 (Genji Monogatari Sennenki) with various exhibitions and events mainly at Ishiyama-dera temple. An event venue called Genji Yume-kairo 源氏夢回廊 (main path leading to the temple entrance) at the temple had a few temple buildings holding various exhibitions related to the novel. It was in 1008 when Lady Murasaki completed the epic novel Genji Monogatari after four years. She wrote it in a little room with a view of the moon at Ishiyama-dera in Otsu. The temple itself is a major tourist attraction with National Treasure buildings, spring flowers, and autumn leaves.

2016 The renovated Otsu Station building reopens on Oct. 1 as Vierra Otsu with new restaurants such Starbucks, The Calendar (including a capsule hotel), 7-Eleven. The new Otsu Tourist Information Center also rents free bicycles.

Miscellaneous

Trivia

Otsu City Hall might be moved to Hama-Otsu.

Lady Murasaki Shikibu is said to have written the epic novel "Tale of Genji" (Genji Monogatari) in a small room in Ishiyama-dera temple. The temple has a small room and a mannequin of Shikibu showing where she might have written the novel.