ROBOT420:
Got em, and some rubber washers too. More pics to follow, trying to get my duel car horns with chrome grills mounted and working right now.

jwatte:
For metal drilling, I prefer M42 cobalt drills. They can cut into stainless even, and dull a lot slower than regular high speed steel bits (coated or not.)In general, you can drill up to 2 times the diameter of the drill before you need to retract to clear chips/swarf, and then keep drilling. You'll want a drill press or mill for good results; hand drilling in steel has never worked out for me.I get my drill bits from drillbitwarehouse.com which has nice quality cobalt drill bits at reasonable prices, and only a $35 minimum order: http://drillbitwarehouse.com/home?page=shop.browse&category_id=6For tapping, you have to cut a small amount (half a turn to a turn) and then back up to clear chips; repeat. You also have to have a very steady hand (or drill press that you crank manually) and use some kind of cutting fluid. Safe-Tap, WD-40, and 5/20 motor oil all work alright; WD-40 is a little light, and the motor oil is a little heavy.

Duane Degn:
I second the drill press advice. Harbor Freight sells some cheap presses. I'm sure a more expensive press would be better and a cheap one but a cheap one sure beats not having one at all.

When cutting threads into hard metal (steel), it's recommended to start the cut with a tapper tap. This has a less aggressive cutting surface to make it easier to begin the threads. This is then followed with a plug (or second) tap. A bottoming tap is then used to cut the final threads if your cutting threads into a blind hole.

jwatte:
If you hand tap, you absolutely need to start with the taper tap!

If you use a drill press for holding/alignment, and turn it by hand, you can get away with starting straight on the plug tap, as you will have a perfectly straight start. This is also useful for cutting threads on the outside of round stock, I've recently learned.