Much of Rajasthan is pretty, almost ephemeral in its dependence on light and hue for its attraction. The massive 600-year old ramparts of Kumbhalgarh Fort offer altogether more immense substance. The sheer size of it makes one want to believe the local legend that the fortress was impregnable, though it was actually taken once, by a powerful Army of Emperor Akbarís Mughal Rajput alliance. Its walls snake over the rolling Aravalli hills for 36km, like some gargantuan stone python. Itís on of the longest walls anywhere on earth outside Chinaís Great Wall, and if youíre feeling adventurous, try hiking along the periphery. Itís a two-day trek, and the only places you can stay the night are in some of the many temples (1, 008, say locals) along your route. You wonít need a guide, but the men selling entry tickets at the fort entrance will find you someone who can cook and lug your load for you