Of course it does Dave, it's a fine model as I said. I've been impressed all through this build blog 👍 and have said so. Just a touch of humour to help the world go round 😉 Particularly as RH is in Canada and not Australia. I'm very grateful to some of our Australian friends, as I have posted here. Especially Canabus in Hobart who promptly sent me a complete parts list including Hobbyking order numbers when I asked advice on a brushless, prop, ESC setup for my Sea Scout renovation. All now safely installed. Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Ed I notice that your prop shaft sticks out from the hull which may be why the prop is so near the rudder. I treat all plans as guidance notes and trial fit the parts before final fixing. I believe we have all been in your position at some time or another! I agree with the advice already given and believe a thin washer and thinned locknut would give you the clearance you need. This isn't a speed boat so there will not be much stress on the set up but my preference would be brass, its easy to file and won't rust. I have in the past reworked the propeller boss but its not really a good idea, and does tend to spoil the looks.

Hi Dave M, Thanks for the advice. I couldn't create enough heat. or had any flux to help the solder flow! I was using a pen torch, not a lot of heat behind it! Will keep an eye on it! Had to make do with what I have on hand! Will have to buy myself a real torch for such projects. As for your tugs wheelhouse 6mm short, OUCH! Thank you though advice well taken! I find one of the hardest steps in my build was the rudder!

Graham That sounds much better and will move your boat at a very fast speed. I must reiterate my previous advice repeated by BOATSHED regarding the extra support for the prop shaft at each end and adjacent to the bearing. Unlike brushed motors, brushless accelerate to their KV rating at a very fast rate and if your installation is not solid (as concrete) you will experience all kinds of problems, all costly, and often terminal (personal experience confirms this). Finally do get a wattmeter and check the amps and wattage whist holding the boat in the water. If either are above the rating for the motor, ESC or battery you need to reduce the prop size. I can't emphasize this enough as the consequence can be an explosion on the water and total loss of the boat and all its equipment. Asw you have mentioned 10000 mA I assume you will be using two 5000Ma batteries in parallel. This is OK providing you use and electronic coupler between the batteries to disconnect a discharged battery to ensure no one battery discharges below the recommended value. These are not cheap and personally I would use one battery and change to a new battery when the first was depleted. I accept that if you are in a racing situation this may not be possible, but I suspect as a newbie you are using for pleasure purposes. I hope you will now be able to proceed to install the new motor and prop shaft and supports as suggested. Please keep us posted and I look forward to seeing your model on the water

sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍

"The max current is the Max Watts divided by the Battery Voltage." Hmmm! Dave, I=P/V works fine for DC and static resistances but it gets much more complex in a dynamic system like an AC motor, which is all a Brushless is. Don't want to get into rms and power factor and co here so I agree the wattmeter is the way to go to find out what's really happening. Normally (at least here, not so sure with China!!) the max power output is quoted at nominal voltage and max efficiency. If you (can!) trace the motors back to the original manufacturer they publish performance graphs showing efficiency, power vs current and volts. But who does that? Except nuts like me😉 According to the DC formula the ECO 600 would draw 131A at 11 Volts or 97A at nominal 14.8V. The real 'Black art' is then to work out what power you want/need for how much thrust, acceleration and top speed for a given boat and hull type🤔 Best way is to ask those who've 'Been there, done that'. That's why I appreciated very much Canabus' advice when I was looking for a brushless for my Sea Scout upgrade👍 Happy sailing all - Whatever pushes your boat! Doug

A working board 24” x 16” in 1” medium density fibre would be about right for you Billings static model of a Thames barge, although a large tray would help in containing everything between building sessions. Some suggested tools in the photo including wood glues and sandpaper (rough and smooth). Always worth reading and understanding the kit instructions, and keeping to the building sequence given. Billings have a reputation for producing quality well equipped kits. I know you will derive much satisfaction from making your first model and I wish you well. Enjoy. Never be shy in asking advice.

Hi Dave M Thank you for your advice, I did not see the box until I had posted, I will do it next time. This is my first time ever at doing a Build Blog let alone a rebuild so this is a very steep learning cover for me in one way or anther👍 , so sorry for any mistakes that I am likely to make. RH Baker yes your boat is the best size but I have an SLK😊 and the boot space is a bit tight, so most of my boats just will not fit so I now have to ask if any one can take them to our lake or show for me, All the Best Fred

Glad to see you have started. With a Build Blog you can add new posts to your blog, including more pics. Just click the box at the top. This will allow others to see your progress and add help and advice in the response box.

Hi Colin The apps you can upload to all compress your files. Can you provide details of one of the pics ie file size, format. What is the spec of your PC? ie Speed, memory, hard disk size. What is your operating system? Which browser are you using? Do you have any Virus protection etc? What internet connection do you have? There could be a whole raft of reasons why you are having problems and without more info it's difficult to give advice. One thought, if your successful uploads are all at a particular time of the day it could be your internet speed connection. Try running Speedtest by Ookla to check your speed http://www.speedtest.net/ Dave