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Well I finally got aroung to starting the B'zar 2011 STD. I just moved my kite building area into the unfinished part of my basement. The most versatile tool I have turned out to be two 3/4 MDF which were 4'X8' sheets each cut into two 2' X 6" and one 2'X4' board giving a total of 4 sheets 2' X 6' and two 2'X4'. I have been able to configure those boards numerous ways to help with various kites I have built

I placed them on my pool table to lay out and cut 4X6 roks

I've cut and layed out large panels for a 2.5M FF04a

Now I've moved them to have a cut out table. The 6' length nicely accommodates fabric rolls. I placed this on top of a workbench

I've placed two 2X6' side by side to use as a layout table and sewing table

Always good to see others projects and techniques. The magnets are a novel idea to hold down the panels while joining the sail together. I've used heavy steel weights and painters tape. Ken McNeill uses a sticky mat. Paul Shirey used a light spray of contact glue on his work surface.

Keep the progress reports coming!

I really like your GD Rok btw. Did you create templates or enlarge the paper copy and cut with scissors or ??

First I change out to a new needle, I got that idea from one of Sugarbakers builds.

I then reset the tension using some scraps of Icarex. Nothing fancy but I'll run through what I do.

In the picture below you can see how I do this. I simple run a triple stitch up the icarex with the correct number of layers. As the stitch runs I stop and change the tension setting and number the area according to the tension setting.

I then look on both side to see what tension works the best. I am looking to see that the loops between the stitches are buried.

This is how it should look

Notice how the front and back look similar.

In number 1 it is clear that the tension setting is too low because the loops are pulled through the back.

something else that I have got in the habit of doing Is leaving notes to myself! Since I tend to have frequent interruptions I will make notes so I don't forget certain steps.

I need a little help with the center T location. The plan say that it is located 550 mm from nose but the markings on the full size are closer to 570 mm also the distance between the upper and lower spreader on the full size plans are different from the measurements on the frame details picture. Any suggestions, thoughts?

It's been a while since I built my B'zar (actually thinking I'll build a second one though). Regarding the Center T. When I built mine, I recall making the mark on the plan the location of the Center T. The difference you are finding in dimensions could be related to the reference point and the point in the build in which you make the measurement.

In the end, about 1cm of the sail is trimmed off the nose (prior to finishing re-enforcements). Then, the nose pocket is stitched about a centimeter lower than the end of the sail (if you are referencing the build I documented a few years ago, I did not follow the plan exactly, so keep that in mind.)

With those two differences, I would make the assumption that the 550mm indicated in the framing plan indicate the distance from the Center T to the end of the spine (the actual spar). Regardless of this, I would not cut the hole for the Center T until you are further in the build and you can test this theory by fitting the spine and measuring. Then you can compare measurement to the marked plan location.

2 sides done and joined. Now planning on how to reinforce the nose and spine.

VERY pretty!I like the R-Sky style that you have incorporated in your layout. The panels of the B'zar lend themselves to doing this, but not all kites allow it.I tried this strategy when messing with the colours for my LeQuartz and for my upcoming Sixth Sense and couldn't get the right R-Sky feeling. So I opted for different styles altogether.But you managed very well.I will be looking forward to the finished kite!Congratulations.

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