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Ermanno Scervino

locationMilan, 20 September 2012

locationMilan, 20 September 2012

DREE HEMINGWAY is <a href=" www.vogue.co.uk/brand/ermanno-scervino">Ermanno Scervino’s girl this season and the campaign star caused quite the stir when she took her front row spot, ready for the designer's wares to kick into action this afternoon. And in shots of orange, sherbet-fizz yellow and pink, that's exactly what they did.

"Colour, new hippy, I just wanted glamour - taking the long lengths of eveningwear and evolving them," said Scervino of his direction backstage after the show. A self-taught designer who has learned from mentors along the way, Scervino has built his fashion reputation up on lace, lingerie and fringing signatures, all of which came into play today.

The first series of looks were cute and cool - apt then that Cara Delevingne opened the show - and saw short perforated leather shifts in purple and orange shimmy down the catwalk, their skirts tightly bunched with tassels that bobbled as they moved. Then came a pink hooded dress, its skirt full and again punctuated by pattern.

Sometimes there were feathers and sometimes there was stricter tailoring - little sleeveless blazers - but mostly this was a lesson in colour, movement and great texture torment.

Those maxi lengths Scervino so fondly spoke about came on asymmetric-shouldered evening gowns and on maxi skirts whose hips were laced with tasselled feathers. On top came mesh jumpers and tops - a trend we saw start in New York, and pretty much bypassed in London, but one that has stepped back on the fashion train for Milan.

It was all very short or all very long and very much about taking eveningwear codes and dressing them up - or rather down - for day.

And let's not forget the shoes - scythe-heeled wooden sandals which for the rest of us might just cause a wobble in our walk. How do the pros do it? By looking dead ahead and repeating "Please don't fall over, please don't fall over," as Delevingne shared with us at last night's Hogan party.