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Not a full restoration. I am rebuilding her mechanically. Make it a good driver, nothing that cannot be reversed. Spruced up A motor, T5 transmission, steering and suspension rebuild. I have 16 inch wires with some new Firestones.

Fuel tank is loose, but need to loosen the filler strip. Tomorrow tank should be out. Pretty cruddy inside and smells like varnish. I have 2 spare tanks and need to see which is best of the 3, then send off to get restored.

The wood still looks really good after some close inspection. I see a little punk in the back corners on the frame on the subrails. Debating replacing the bottom stuff, might open a can of worms. I have been building wood boats for some time now and know how this goes. How big a job would this be?

They make an epoxy wood reconditioner, 2-part, that you can saturate slightly punky wood with. I cannot remember the name of what I used right now. Since you are a wood guy, you may be familiar with these type of products. In places where the screw holes were all worn out, I mixed the epoxy with oak sawdust, and filled the holes, and then re-drilled for the screws. Stronger than the original setup. For example where the door latch bolts on. A '31 deluxe touring is a car that still has a lot of wood

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I use a couple long bolts while getting the flywheel loose from the dowel pins.
A better idea would be to cut the heads off and drill a hole in each stud, then drop a cotter pin in the holes.
Once the flywheel is loose, remove the 2 cotter pins and lift the flywheel off.

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Body comes off frame next. Is it ok to brace under the body side to side with a couple good slices of oak tied together with 4 rollers under? I know it is probably better to go lengthwise and support the whole length of the wood braces. Either way is easy for me to make a frame. Going to strip running gear from frame and have it blasted. Wasn't going to, but you know how this goes. This is my first Model A, but not my first car or wooden boat build.

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I ran me up a body dolly out of rectangular tubing and old casters,doesnt matter what the body is,just match the frame rail width and length from the firewall back,drop body on the dolly,square up and drill holes to bolt it down.I went a little higher than car height.that way you can sit on a stool or stand to work on it. Deliberating whether to build a rotisserie,the Sport Coupe body is tits,dont need one for it..but they are sweet for work.

You do know you can soda blast that? It doesn't need to be as harsh as sand blasting any more.

One thing I did noticed is that wire going OVER the center brace does NOT go there. it is probably the brake light switch wire you just flopped there to hold it, but remember, all the wires ride along the top edge of the bottom edge of the side rail, and in that place, there is a hole in the cross member at the corner of the side rail for all the wires to go through.

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Its not pitted at all, that might be a good option. I am going to take it somewhere. I don't have the compressor or the time. Here in Cincinnati we have American Metal Cleaning, haven't used them myself, but this is where a lot of locals take parts. Going to call them tomorrow. I almost thought about pressure washing and hitting bad spots with a wire brush. This isn't going to be a show car, mechanically rebuilt driver.