Any forum users with ideas for building the Revell Typ VII? Obviously there is much plastic that would need to be replaced with something more durable, and a great deal of scratchbuilding of components (watertight compartment, batttery box etc,) but I think that the model does have a good deal of potential and some of the ideas utilised in the commercially available r/c craft may be viable, even the internal layout of the Robbe kit could be a starting point.....I am sure there must be a few folk bouncing concepts around their heads, much of the work that Ronald has performed would be useful, and perhaps an information exchange here could help the dream become reality... or conversely prevent expensive mistakes being made!

Only think I have actually seen is a kit converted to surface runner (was offered on E-bay). This would be easy to do, I guess.

as said before, at the widest point you can fit in a 18 cm long pipe of 6 cm dia. This is VERY limited.

What you could consider is buying a kit, and fiberglass in the entire inside of the hull. The entrance would have to be from the top side, making for a VERY large cover plate.

Or, you could consider something like micro-WTC's (one for motor, one per servo, etc.) and somehow stack these in the hull, also putting whatever you can into the wet (batteries)

Another observation is that instead of creating a complex drive train, you could consider a jet pump with the aft torp. tube as outlet, and leave the props free-spinning.

But let's wait for the hero's who can speak of experience, since I have none in that field. All this is just wild ideas

however, our german friends seem to have started. this link contains two pictures of and a german text about the aft control surfaces, but you have to be a member first (and be able to read german). have a look

Thanks Ronald, I have signed up and waiting for admin. to activate my account; what I have in mind is to extend the WTC by 'telescoping' a smaller bore tube to the 6cm, using micro-components to the maximum extent that my pocket allows, and either accessing thru the top OR being brave and trying a removable end configuration ( the thought of carving that beautiful hull tho....) The drive to be supplied by a single motor driving two prop. shafts through gears to save space rather than two separate drive trains. Powerwise I had thought of using a Gel-type battery or a set of rechargeable cells in a shrinkwrap type of pack with sliding contact as used in a laptop, possibly stowed vertically to the fore, and in their own waterproof compartment. I have only considered the dynamic-dive option for the first boat ( don't tell my girlfriend but I would like two, one with a two-level Wintergarten....) but later attempt a static-diver.. As for the hull, assuming a top-opener for the moment, the idea is to open the free-flooding holes as you have on your model and then using the very fine tissue type fibre-glass to add a little durability to the ends and lower areas of the hull. Do you see any major snags with the basic theories here?

What needs attention, if you intend to close the WTC with the deck, is how to fix that deck to the WTC. ( and please, do not take me for an expert in R/C subs. My boat ran 2 times, then the dive module burnt out because I left a fuse out.... )

Hmmm... possibly at the locations of the retractable bollards, the reciever for the fastener could be glassed into the hull when the strenghening exercise is done... It may be adviseable to divide the deck into 3 sections, that with the tower to be fixed in position, with the fore and aft sections having locating tabs onto underside of the tower section, and being screwed at the outer ends. This would give a good degree of access to the internals, and the structure would gain some strength from the tower area being permanantly fixed..