AuthorTopic: Transmission replacement (Read 2076 times)

Update on the work. Cleaned the engine compartment, Glassed the area that was cut for clearance of the relocated shifter. Started Insulating engine compartment with 1" insulation. Removed the small pieces of wood that hold the steps and added some epoxy behind to help tighten up them up. Had to stop the insulation due to the wood on the port side being rotted. So waiting for some teak to arrive. Made a bracket for the shift cable and will get it to the boat to make sure it will fit. Has anybody replaced their strut, and have any hints? Thinking i should consider this as it is looking rather poor.

Yep, I (with boatyard experts) did it in Oct. Not a project to be taken lightly. I would avoid it unless absolutely warranted. Big/expensive; grinding, cutting, fiberglassing job. PM or email me and we can discuss details. “Someday” I will do a tech wiki write-up with pics.

PM or email me if you need more info/pics/video/etc. Good luck. There also also a factory spec. pdf doc. sheet/install drawing instructions on the CD website, I believe. BTW- mine was installed with micro balloons and vinyl ester resin. Not epoxy resin. -Noah

Really nice work. Are you really positive about the adoption thing? It’s only a 30-footer after all.

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Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the tradewinds in your sails.Explore. Dream. Discover. -Mark Twain

Measure, eyeball, align centered so shaft is centered in stern tube. Then fingers crossed. My hull was not deformed. Had to slightly adjust/lower front motor mounts when all said and done but it was almost 100% spot on.

NoahHow were they sure the strut installation was aligned perfectly, and not skewed? Boat's on the hard and the hull is flexed. Just curious.

A not unreasonable expectation.

However, it appears to me that the folks who do this work for as living would know a lot better than us average DIY-ers just how to do so.

The strut is in very close proximity to the stern tube, so hull flex could well be "similar" in that particular area. Certainly close enough to not have a material effect on lining the two up properly. And the strut is made specifically for this boat.

We must also remember that there are tolerances and clearances for these alignments, even between the strut, the cutlass bearing and stern tube.

Little update Decided to replace my strut, it was getting very thin on the bottom and pitting very much, but the deciding factor was a small drip coming down it.As you know there is a small bilge under the rear water tank that has no way to drain. This area is right behind the area that the strut is mounted.since I was on the fence as to replacing the strut this pushed me over. I had to find this leak incase it was something serious. I cut out the strut and removed the filler against hull in front of this rear bilge on the outside and water would seep out of that area. Did not see any missing or broken fiberglass, in fact the gel coat is still there in most places. From inside with the sun out the area looks a little thin in the layup as the area was letting a lot of light through. the repair I am thinking would be lay up additional glass in the bilge and then fill it up with epoxy foam then glass over the whole area to prevent water from sitting there.So since I have just received a new rear water tank thanks to this board's for sale area I started the take the tank out. You need to remove the fuel tank panel before taking the water tank panel off and surprise guess what's starting to leak. The fuel tank is wet at the rear bottom Well just add it to the list Still love my boatFirst pic: strut wearSecond pic: glass and filler removedThird pic: strut bedFourth pic:Water in rear most bilge with water tank removed