Cook’s Country Best Grilling Recipes. By the editors of America’s Test Kitchens. $29.95.

Soaked, Slathered and Seasoned. By Elizbeth Karmel. $19.95.

New books turn up heat on grilling vs. barbecuing debate

With months of grilling stretched before us, the season is rife with opportunity - and not only for those of us tending the fire.

Capitalizing upon our ambitions are the publishers of specialty cookbooks. With lip-smacking titles such as "Soaked, Slathered and Seasoned," and photos charred and juicy, you might need a napkin instead of a bookmark.

Without exception, these books are highly designed (many are color-coded and super-organized), even glitzy. One of them is packaged with a sturdy cardboard slipcover designed to look like a matchbox. Slide it off and the cover of the book looks like - what else? - an enormous stack of matches.

Another one is written by someone who refers to himself not as a cook but as a "Barbecue Life Coach."

Process over product

These authors aren't just setting forth a cooking method; they're selling a whole way of life.

And if you're serious about building your grilling skills, it comes down to one question: What does barbecuing mean to you?

One of these authors, Adam Perry Lang of "Serious Barbecue," made an interesting distinction between what he called Southern and Yankee styles of barbecuing.

For the purpose of getting the right kind of book into your hands, we'll eliminate the geographical reference and divide like this: Those who like to barbecue and those who prefer to grill.

If you like to barbecue

If your idea of heaven involves a red-and-white checkered tablecloth, a bowl of tangy sauce and a platter of pork, two new books are perfect for you.

Adam Perry Lang's "Serious Barbecue" (Hyperion Books, $35) is a visual feast, with flames that virtually leap off the page. The celebrity chef got a degree from the University of Wisconsin-Madison but earned his barbecue cred working at a ranch, cooking for modern-day cowboys in New Mexico. His restaurant, Daisy May's BBQ, has been a New York City hot spot for a number of years.

The book totals 400 pages and is about the weight of a great big steak. Many pictures here involve him slinging a whole pig over his shoulder, or cutting into one on the spit.

Each chapter begins with a good description of various cuts of meat; the recipes included are his favorites for each particular cut.

In the other recommended book, "Low and Slow" (Running Press Books, $19.95), author/barbecue life coach Gary Wiviott aims to take readers by the hand - or, more precisely, grab them by the arm – to teach his way.

"Everything you know about BBQ is wrong," the front of the book proclaims.

The book is divided into five lessons, with a quiz at the end of each chapter. This is serious stuff, if you're ready to master Wiviott's style. If not, you might want to skip this one, because its step-by-step approach doesn't quite lend itself to jumping in and grilling.

A go-to book for grillers

If you're ready to fire up the grill on a moment's notice and sizzle up anything and everything in your fridge, then "Weber's Way to Grill" by Jamie Purviance is the book for you ($24.95). There are step-by-step photos, how-to information boxes and show-stopping recipes that lie somewhere between easy and ambitious.

But with all the support within the pages, even the most difficult techniques seem easily within reach.

There are chapters on building the right fire for the right technique, chapters on various meats and nice seafood, and vegetarian sections, too.

"The emphasis here is on paying close attention," Purviance writes in the introduction. "It's about learning how and why certain ways work well, so that you can move beyond the limits of winging it."

Ones for all

You don't always think of cookbooks as adventure stories. But the "Cook's Country Best Grilling Recipes" ($29.95) by the editors of America's Test Kitchens is so thorough in detailing the procedure that it's easy to get swept up in the thrill.

The book includes a primer on setting up the grill, a collection of regional recipes for grillers and barbecuers, and a roundup of classic side dishes, all of which have been thoroughly tested. It makes for surprisingly great reading.

"Soaked, Slathered and Seasoned" by Elizabeth Karmel (Wiley, $19.95) is the size of a paperback bestseller and focuses exclusively on build-your-own condiments. You'd be surprised by all the options, which include brines, sauces, rubs, mops, seasoned butters, glazes, salsas and relishes.

Recipes

Is it really possible to cook cheese on the grill?

Two elements must be in place for this recipe to work. First, the cheese chunks must be dipped in the egg wash and coated with the bread crumb mixture twice, making certain there are no bare spots where the cheese can ooze out. Next, the cheese has to be set in the freezer for exactly 30 minutes. Any longer and the insides won't warm up adequately.

The recipe is taken from "Grilling Basics," by Linda Johnson Larsen (Knack, 2009).

Wisconsin Grilled Cherry Cheese KebabsMakes 12 kebabs

8 ounces Muenster cheese

8 ounces provolone cheese

2 eggs, beaten

1 tablespoon water

½ teaspoon dried thyme

2 cups panko bread crumbs

3 cups large Bing cherries, pitted

1 tablespoon canola oil

Cut cheese into 1 ½-inch cubes and refrigerate. In shallow bowl, beat eggs, water and thyme. Place bread crumbs in another bowl.

Dip cheese cubes into egg mixture, then into bread crumbs to coat. Repeat.

Place on a plate and place in freezer 30 minutes. Remove and thread on bamboo skewers, alternating with cherries.

Cookbook author Rick Browne of "The Big Book of Barbecue Side Dishes" (Sellers Publishing, 2009) advises against stirring rice as it's cooking, as the delicate grains can be crushed, releasing starch and turning the rice gummy and sticky.

Montego Bay Rice and BeansMakes 6 to 8 servings

1 can (16 ounces) large red kidney beans, rinsed and drained

2 ¼ to 2 ½ cups water

1 can (14 ounces) coconut milk

2 cups long-grain white rice

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

2 green onions, chopped

½ teaspoon black pepper

1 sprig of fresh thyme

½ teaspoon hot pepper sauce, such as Tabasco

In large saucepan, combine all ingredients (starting with 2 ¼ cups water) and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 20 to 25 minutes, until all liquid is absorbed. (Check close to end of cooking time and add more water as needed.) Stir well, remove sprig of thyme and serve hot.

Because the shrimp in this recipe is pureed, you can save a few dollars by using smaller, less premium shrimp. The recipe is from "Weber's Way to Grill" by Jamie Purviance (Weber, 2009).

Vietnamese Shrimp Pops with Peanut SauceMakes 4 to 6 servings

1 cup unsweetened coconut milk, stirred

1/3 cup old-fashioned peanut butter, stirred

1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons soy sauce (divided)

1 tablespoon packed brown sugar

1 teaspoon hot chili sauce, such as Sriracha

½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1 pound ground pork

¾ pound shrimp, peeled and deveined

½ cup coarsely chopped fresh basil

¼ cup panko bread crumbs

2 large garlic cloves

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup vegetable oil

Bamboo skewers

Soak bamboo skewers in water at least 30 minutes.

To make sauce: In heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine coconut milk, peanut butter, lime zest and juice, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, brown sugar, chili sauce and ginger. Place over medium heat and cook (but do not simmer), whisking constantly, just until sauce is smooth and slightly thickened, 2 to 3 minutes (sauce will thicken further as it cools). Remove from heat.

To make pops: In food processor or blender, pulse pork, shrimp, basil, panko, garlic, remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce, pepper and oil and process until a chunky paste is formed.

Brush more oil evenly on the surface of a sheet pan. Using 2 spoons, shape mixture into small ovals or quenelles, placing them on the oiled sheet pan as you make them. Turn them, making sure they are well coated with oil. Refrigerate 30 minutes to 1 hour to firm up the texture.

Prepare grill for direct cooking over high heat. Brush cooking grates clean. Place a quenelle on end of each skewer.

Grill shrimp pops over direct high heat, with lid closed as much as possible, until they are opaque throughout, 4 to 6 minutes, turning once or twice (cut one open with a sharp knife to test for doneness).

Arrange shrimp pops on a serving platter. Serve warm with the dipping sauce.

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To trim the chickens in half as called for in this recipe, use a pair of kitchen shears to cut along both sides of the backbone to remove it. Flip chicken over and, using a chef's knife, cut through the breastbone to separate the chicken into halves.

To make a packet of wood chips, soak the wood in water 15 minutes, drain and seal in a foil packet. Make 3 or 4 slits in the top of the packet to allow smoke to escape.

The recipe is from "Cook's Country Best Grilling Recipes" (America's Test Kitchen, 2009).

Split chickens in half. Use paper towels to pat pieces dry, and rub them evenly with dry spice mixture.

Prepare grill to cook over indirect heat (situating a baking pan in the coals directly under the grate where the meat will be placed). Place the wood chip packet directly on a primary burner or atop your pile of coals. Heat until wood chips begin to smoke heavily, about 5 minutes.

Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken, skin side down, on grill. Cover and cook chicken until well-browned on bottom and thighs register 120 degrees on instant-read thermometer (about 35 to 45 minutes).

Flip chicken skin side up. Cover and continue to cook chicken until skin is golden brown and crisp and breasts register 160 to 165 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, about 15 to 20 minutes longer.

Transfer chicken to a carving board and brush evenly with ½ cup of the sauce. Tent chicken loosely with foil and let it rest 10 minutes. Brush chicken with remaining sauce, carve and serve.

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The next time you fry up bacon, don't automatically discard the grease. It is one of the secret ingredients that keeps the inside of the burgers moist and helps it develop a flavorful crust on the outside, one that enhances the smoky flavor of the grill. Recipe is from "Cook's Country Best Grilling Recipes" (America's Test Kitchen, 2009).

All-American BurgersMakes 4 burgers

8 slices bacon

1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, torn into ½-inch pieces

¼ cup milk

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon pepper

1 ½ pounds 85% lean ground beef

In large skillet over medium heat, cook bacon until brown and crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Measure 3 tablespoons of the bacon fat into a heatproof bowl and refrigerate until needed. Reserve cooked bacon for another use and discard any remaining fat.

In bowl, mash bread, milk, garlic, salt and pepper into a smooth paste. In separate bowl, break beef into small pieces, then add bread/milk paste and chilled bacon fat. Using your hands, lightly knead mixture until combined. Divide the meat into 4 equal portions, then form each into a loose ball and gently flatten into a ¾-inch patty. Cover and refrigerate until the grill is ready.

Prepare grill. Clean and oil the cooking grate. Lay burgers on grill and cook, without pressing on them, until well-seared on both sides and cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes, flipping burgers halfway through.

Transfer burgers to a platter, tent loosely with foil and let rest 5 minutes before serving.

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Self-proclaimed Barbecue Life Coach Gary Wiviott calls baby back ribs the pinnacle cut of ribs. "It's the slab I'd serve the Queen if she came over for dinner," he quips in his book, "Low and Slow" (Running Press, 2009).

This preparation method for baby back ribs is the basic technique, he said, for grillers aspiring to greatness.

If you would like, he also suggests filling a spray bottle with 2/3 cup cranberry juice, 1/3 cup olive oil and 2 teaspoons of the spices from the rub (see below). Shake well and spritz ribs toward end of cooking period whenever you lift the lid off the grill.

Baby Back Ribs, Low and SlowMakes 3 to 6 servings

3 racks baby back ribs (2 to 3 pounds each)

1 ½ cups white vinegar

¾ cup prepared yellow mustard

3 tablespoons paprika

2 tablespoons black pepper

1 ½ tablespoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 teaspoons onion powder

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Start a fire in kettle grill.

Meanwhile, clean ribs by rinsing them in the sink under cold water. Douse each rib rack with about ½ cup vinegar, and lightly rub vinegar into both sides.

Rinse racks again under cold water. Set ribs on a rimmed baking sheet and slather both sides with a light coating of the yellow mustard.

In small bowl, combine paprika, pepper, salt, garlic powder, onion powder and cayenne pepper until thoroughly blended. Sprinkle each rack with about 2 tablespoons of the rub. (Remaining rub can be stored in an airtight container for up to six months).

Fill an aluminum loaf pan three-quarters full with water. Set pan on one side of the grate over fire. Place rack of ribs on grate across from pan of water, making sure that the thickest, fattiest part of the meat is placed nearest the center.

About 20 minutes into cooking, close bottom vent by one-third. Check 10 minutes later and flip meat. If water is less than three-quarters full, fill it.

Once ribs have been cooking an hour, fill a chimney starter one-third full with charcoal. Pour unlit charcoal into the fire. Close grate and make sure water pan is filled adequately.

An hour and a half into cooking time, remove lid and pick up one end of ribs with tongs. If it bends and flexes a bit and looks as if it's about to break, it's done. If rack is not pliable, keep cooking. Check for doneness; it can take up to 2 hours to cook a rack of baby back ribs on the grill.