Wine and Cork: a Complex Subject

It would be hard to believe, nevertheless in the world of wine that little
element which is put on the top of a bottle - and having the function of sealing
it - has a fundamental and strategical importance, last but not the least,
cultural and traditional as well. There are so many arguments going on around
that simple cork cylinder - or of any other material - most of the times
giving less importance to what should be considered no matter the type of
seal which is put in the bottle. Nevertheless, even though we all do not
fully realize this, that seal often conditions our acceptance towards that wine
which the seal should protect from the external dangers: in case the cork meets
the expectations of consumer, it is more likely the wine contained in the bottle
will be considered of higher quality as well. How can it be a little cylinder
made of cork or of any other material - the closure - is capable of influencing
the prejudice and the acceptability of wine in such an important way?

According to the opinion of many consumers, it seems the cork plays an important
role in the acceptability of a wine, according to producers, its role would be
less important. By trying to be objective, without being influenced by cultural
and prejudicial factors, we believe producers are right. We do not think it is
enough closing a bottle with a high quality cork closure to make a wine better.
In other words, a cork does not make a wine. Cork undoubtedly has fundamental
importance in those wines destined for long aging periods in bottle, in which
the essential exchange of air from the inside of the bottle to the outside is
ensured by the characteristics of natural cork. The same is not so important in
those wines destined to an immediate consumption, as the aging in bottle, not
only is not recommended, it also worsen the organoleptic qualities of the wine.
Moreover, whenever it is possible, it is always better to see a bottle with a
good synthetic cork instead of a bad natural cork.

According to the point of view of producers, it is absolutely essential a wine
reaches the glass of consumers in the same condition it left the winery, with
all of its organoleptic qualities being unaltered and unspoiled. In this sense,
it certainly is not the cork the only factor allowing the achievement of this
goal: a wrong service temperature, wrong glass, bad keeping of wine, are all
elements equally important playing a fundamental role in the appreciation of a
wine. This includes the cork as well, of course. In fact, it is enough the cork
is faulty, both because it has been damaged by the effects of tricloroanisole -
also known as TCA or corky smell - as well as because of an insufficient
tightness, the wine, even in the most appropriate serving conditions and
keeping, does not express its best qualities. If it is true consumers have
accepted with no problems the introduction of the most innovative technologies
in the production of wine - while recognizing their fundamental role in the
production of quality wines - the technological progresses made by the closure
industry seem to have a lesser acceptability.

If we consider the now very common statistical figures which everyone knows,
4-5% of wine bottles are damaged by the effects of the trichloroanisole
spoilage in natural cork closures, with the consequence of the well known and
disgusting corky smell. Moreover, to these figures must be added about a
10% of wines that, because of an insufficient tightness of natural cork
closures, get prematurely oxidized therefore damaging the wine. If we consider
these figures, the loss because of accidental factors caused by corks is not
irrelevant. This does mean in a production of 100,000 bottles, there is a loss
of more than 10,000 bottles of wine. This loss, undoubtedly, also affects the
price of wine: it is evident this loss represents an increasing in costs for
producers. The solutions proposed to these kind of problems include the well
known synthetic corks - which are not completely accepted by consumers yet - as
well as the most recent introduction of screwcaps, used since a long time in
ordinary and bulk wines, soda pops and mineral waters.

If it is true synthetic corks suffer from a strong resistance by consumers, for
most of them screwcaps are even considered unacceptable. The results of studies
about this subject, ensure these kind of closures allow a better keeping of the
freshness and the integrity of aromas and flavors of wines in which are being
used: a factor that should grant them a better acceptability and preference.
However it is undeniable the better tightness of these corks accelerates
reductive processes, and in just 18 months the quality of wines is seriously
compromised. This latter consideration should suggest not using synthetic corks
or screwcaps in wines destined to long aging in bottle. This is what producers
know as well and - in fact - they make use of synthetic corks and screwcaps in
wines destined to an immediate consumption, such as whites, roses and young
reds. It is not an economic matter only: it is undeniable it is the primary
interest of producers to ensure their products the best consumption conditions
possible. This should be the interest of consumers as well.

Nevertheless the closure is still a complex and delicate subject, which
irritates consumers when they see a bottle sealed with a synthetic cork. It is
such a delicate subject which could make one thinks the wine contained in the
bottle is less important and it seems to be the cork what it is being poured in
glasses. Of course, it is also something associated to tradition and culture.
Anyway, does it really make sense - in the sake of tradition - allowing the
spoilage of a wine when it can be avoided? It is also true a screwcap deprives
the consumers of the enjoyable ceremony of the opening of a bottle made of
corkscrews and cares: a simple and quick movement and the wine is ready to be
poured in a glass. Anyway, this is a cultural barrier very hard to change.
Despite the efforts of producers in having these closures accepted, many
consumers still have the prejudice synthetic corks and screwcaps are used in low
quality wines. A cultural change hard to achieve, saved the case consumers will
begin to pay more attention to what it is being poured in their glasses instead
of paying attention to what they see in a bottle. After all, the attention paid
to the cork is limited to the time in which the bottle is being uncorked: the
pleasure of the appreciation of a wine has a truly longer time, no matter the
closure is made from natural cork or any other synthetic material.

MailBox

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My compliments for your interesting publication, every month rich in
interesting things to learn for us wine lovers. I often hear talking about all
purpose meal wines and I personally believe it is pretty hard to find a wine
which can be matched to every food of a meal. I would like to know your opinion
about this subject and, if possible, to know the types of wines which can be
used for this purpose.

Annamaria Gregori -- Bologna (Italy)

The definition all purpose meal wine is pretty vague and
most of the times inappropriate as well. If we consider, for
example, a meal in which are being served a soup and a roast, it is
pretty hard to find a wine which can meet objective
requirements for a good match with both foods. Whether for the soup
we could choose a white or a rose wine, this wine will be hardly
matched to the roast, saved some cases in which it is roasted white
meat. The same problem is true in case it would be chosen a bodied
red wine to be matched to the roast with the consequence of
penalizing the soup which would be covered by the personality of the
wine. Indeed the term all purpose meal wine means a wine
suited for a non excessively elaborated meal or however made of
pretty similar foods both for nature and preparation. Most of the
cases this term is used to refer to a wine capable of satisfying,
even though with some exceptions and compromises, the usual needs
for meals consumed every day. By obeying to the common saying
In Medio Stat Virtus (the virtue is in the middle), the best
all purpose meal wines would probably be roses: they have more body
than whites and less body than reds, therefore more suited for this
compromise as they generally offer good freshness, good aromas and
enough structure.

I read in your magazine brandies should not be served in balloon
glasses as they excessively exalt alcohol. Moreover I read the habit of warming
a distillate with a flame should be avoided as well. As these two habits are not
advisable, why do they keep on serving brandies this way? My compliments for
your publication.

Philip Baker -- Chicago, Illinois (USA)

Serving a distillate in a balloon glass means, first of all, to
excessively exalt the volatile and ethereal quality of alcohol while
penalizing the development of all other aromas. Alcohol is a highly
volatile element and it does not certainly need high quantity of
oxygen in order to develop. Warming a distillate with a flame before
its consumption, could develop burnt aromas and tastes because of
high temperature. Moreover, warming a distillate with a flame
excessively develops the ethereal character of alcohol with the
result of making the distillate pungent during the evaluation of
aromas: a condition which can also cause an unpleasing and painful
reaction. The reason why distillates are often served this way should
be found in traditions and in those habits now commonly accepted and
believed to be right. Also thanks to improved distillation and
aging techniques, distillates generally have now a higher finesse
and a better organoleptic quality, as to require the use of more
modest sized glasses capable of exalting the elegant and
refined characteristics of aromas. If we consider the modern Cognac
glass - a tulip shaped glass of small size - it can be understood how
the tasting of this distillate has developed over time. In fact the
classic balloon glass was traditionally associated to Cognac in the
past and it represented an indisputable rule for its service. Today
connoisseurs avoid using this type of glass and prefer the more
suited tulip shaped glass.

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